# Sticky  OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery



## B NEGATIVE

*Purpose:*

I want this thread to exist for 2 purposes. The first purpose is so that we can all enjoy the sheer beauty and power of water cooling. The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.









Mature discussion of parts and watercooling theory is welcome,if the post you wish to make is of a technical nature then please use the search to see if you question has already been answered or start a thread. The post rate is very fast and questions can get swallowed up and not seen,dont be offended if your question is not answered immediately.

-

*Rules:*

To join this club simply post *pics of your COMPLETE rig in THIS THREAD* and I will add you to the list. The rules are not strict, ANY form of liquid cooling is good; that includes users of products like the Corsair H50. Feel free to post multiple builds and have multiple posts, I will add them next to your original post in the list. Even builds you no longer have are acceptable, just so long as they were built by you.








Dont double post and keep quoted pics (except one) spoilered,this keeps this thread tidy.

*Sig Tag:*

OCN Water Cooling Club

Code:



Code:


[CODE][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/0_20]OCN Water Cooling Club[/URL]

[/CODE]


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## kevingreenbmx

*Members:*

This list uses OCN's permalink URLs, so if you are viewing with a post count other than the standard 10 posts per page, they may not work for you. sorry about that, I did not know when I started the list.

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0Ap9Dode9am9cdG11RnFTdVJqZWFucUJxUHhIdmM5RFE&w=100&h=800&gid=0&single=true Google Spreadsheet


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## kevingreenbmx

reserved for future expansion of awesome


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## Spawn-Inc

well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.

Specs:
Swiftech MCP655-b
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCW60
Swiftech MicroRes v2
Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
18x High Speed Yate loons.


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## zhevra

Mother of god...


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## el gappo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.

Specs:
Swiftech MCP655-b
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCW60
Swiftech MicroRes v2
Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
18x High Speed Yate loons.










that thing gets crazier every time i see it +1


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## kevingreenbmx

@ Spawn-Inc - that thing is a beast! your in!


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## Sickened1




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## wierdo124

I wish









How's that H50?


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## Bindusar

Here's mine, a little homemade deal that does the job...could be better
but could be worse.

D-Tek Fusion
Swiftech MCP655-B
Koolance Inline Reservoir
2-120mm Thermaltake Thunderblades
Custom 1/2" Coiled Copper Tube Heat Exchange


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## kevingreenbmx

hey, sickened1, can you go back and edit your post to include a brief list of your parts?

i want people to be able to come to this thread and see what other people have while they are looking at switching to watercooling. 

and for my own interest, what dye are you using? that looks about the color i want for my loop i am getting. 

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wierdo124* 
How's that H50?

not as good as i would like it to be, but really good when compared to air coolers that are about the same size. it is not the best performer (which is why i am getting a heat killer and a xspc 480mm rad), but if you look at the amount of space it takes up compared to how well it cools it is very impressive. I think it is well worth it for the flexibility you have in mounting it.


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## Syrillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bindusar* 
Here's mine, a little homemade deal that does the job...could be better
but could be worse.




















*faints*


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## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bindusar* 
Here's mine, a little homemade deal that does the job...could be better
but could be worse.

Very cool! i love the spiral radiator thing! your in! 

seems we are getting an awesome mix of water cooling styles already.


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## Rud3Bwoy

YouTube - ABS Can 695 Core I7 Gaming Rig Completed!





Video of rig for you guys



250 gb ocz vertex being added tomorrow with my windows 7 x64 retail,waiting for my icy dock to come from newegg tomorrow =)


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## Juggalo23451

I am in Custom W/C all the way and the only way to go


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## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bindusar* 
Here's mine, a little homemade deal that does the job...could be better
but could be worse.

D-Tek Fusion
Swiftech MCP655-B
Koolance Inline Reservoir
2-120mm Thermaltake Thunderblades
Custom 1/2" Coiled Copper Tube Heat Exchange










what kind of temps do you get with that coil


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## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy* 









Video of rig for you guys

250 gb ocz vertex being added tomorrow with my windows 7 x64 retail,waiting for my icy dock to come from newegg tomorrow =)

rudebwoy i love your rig, i watched tjharlow build it


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## Lieutenant_Dan

heres my go at it... i like it very clean


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## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crc614* 
rudebwoy i love your rig, i watched tjharlow build it









thank you =)


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## Kriztoffer

I'll join!








BTW: Great work fellow WC'rs, really nice setups all of you.


































My classified Black Pearl


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## LiquidForce

I'll snap some pics of my 8800gs WC overkill tomorrow if i can snag the camera from my dad. Its impressive and totally unnessecary for my wimpy rig


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## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kriztoffer* 
I'll join!








BTW: Great work fellow WC'rs, really nice setups all of you.









My classified Black Pearl









i really like the ABS black pearl but i dont like reverse ATX


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## Kriztoffer

Thanks







I think BTX is cool, not too mainstream and it gives GPU (stock coolers) good airflow


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## Xandax

Glad a photo of mine could be used for the banner 8)...

Here's the equipment:
Heatkiller 775 Rev 3.0
EK-NB 780i Northbridge Water Block
EK-SB VGA 790i Southbridge Water Block
Swiftech MCP655
XSPC RX480
Feser F1 Fluid
4x Yate Loon 120mmx25mm @ 1200rpms
Scythe KazeMaster Fan Controller
2x Swiftech RadBoxes (Rev 1 and Rev 2)
15" of Tygon 1/2"ID 5/8"OD Tube
12x Bitspower Compression Fittings 1/2ID 5/8OD
2x Bitspower T Blocks
2x Bitspower Filler Ports
Koolance Anti-kink springs
PT Nuke


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## CL3P20

*My sig'd rig...shown with Xfired 4850's..*


















Coppertop GTX: 2x MCW60's: Patron 1.75L res: 77' HC, mod'd by FstFreddy: D5 vario [plumbed]: CyberDruid Techstation: external 13.8v PSU: Aqua-color 1/2" ID tubing by Feser

*and my oldest sons daily user..*


























DD TDX: NB and SB by Iandh: MCW60: MCP355 w/ XS top: 77' HC, mod'd by FstFreddy: Zalman Reserator [pump removed for passive cooled res







]: inverted and mod'd Aspire Xgamer: external 12v PSU: Aqua-color 1/2" ID tubing by Feser


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## _AKIMbO_

Swiftech MCP655
EK Bay Spin Reservoir
Heat Killer 3.0cu
XSPC RX360 (w/ 6 mid-speed Yate Loons in push/pull)
Tygon 7/16" tubing


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## JaCkHoLe

Here is my first watercooling adventure







NZXT Duet HTPC Case flipped to BTX and under water:

























































Specs:
D4 pump w/ EK Top
240mm HWL Black Ice II
240mm Magicool Slim
Apogee GT
MCW60
DD Maze NB Block
Custom "Nuka Cola Quantum" Res made from mini coke bottle


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## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JaCkHoLe* 
Here is my first watercooling adventure







NZXT Duet HTPC Case flipped to BTX and under water:

Specs:
D4 pump w/ EK Top
240mm HWL Black Ice II
240mm Magicool Slim
Apogee GT
MCW60
DD Maze NB Block
Custom "Nuka Cola Quantum" Res made from mini coke bottle









i lold, nuka cola quantum res ftw


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## muledeer

I'll throw my name in the hat for this club







This is my first WC'd setup, I love the temps but I would have bought it for the cool factor alone









Attachment 124811

Attachment 124812

Attachment 124813


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## Swiftes

Mine:


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## Bastiaan_NL

Nice idea OP, +rep!

here is my build:









link

parts:
Tygon 1/2 ID - 3/4 OD - Clear tubing
Feser One Cooling Fluid UV BLACK
XSPC X2O 5.25 750 Dual Bay Reservoir Pump
XSPC RS240 Black
Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shining 1/2 Fitting
Watercool HeatKiller Rev. 3.0 S754/939/AM2


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## USFORCES

My 12 years of Watercooling history

*XP3200-6800ultra-ASUS A7N8X-E Deluxe* (Still have)

















BFG 6800Ultra water block, lol


*FX62-7900GTX SLI-Asus Crosshair*









*QX6700-8800GTX SLI-Asus Striker extreme* (Still have)









*Q9650/E8500-GTX 280 SLI-Evga 780i FTW*









*Switched from case to Desk*
*Before*








*After,*

























*i7 980X-GTX 480 TRI-SLI Asus RIIIE*

























2012 680 FTW TRI SLI


780 classified SLI


2014 4960X Asus IV black edition


pulled an all nighter & finely got the memory plumbed into the motherboard loop. Memory runs a good 15c cooler, every little bit helps will see how it oc's now











Before


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## fstfrddy

CPU only,
MCP655 Vario
CyberDruid freestanding Reservoir
Bonneville Heatercore
and of course a Stinger V8 CPU block


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated!

Some truly awesome stuff here! 

feel free to rock the Sig tag once you have been added to the list.

*If you have posted your pics without o list of your gear please go back and edit your post to include the list. it is a big help to people looking to switch to watercooling.* I have added even those who did not add a list so far, but i will not add any more unless they include a list as well.

Also, If anyone is good with Photoshop PM me your amazing banners!


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## 88EVGAFTW

New pictures, added the NB to the loop, temps are about same as before. 58C load on Prime and 62ish on IBT and Linx


























Damn the pink anti kink, it's all I have


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## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
New pictures, added the NB to the loop, temps are about same as before. 58C load on Prime and 62ish on IBT and Linx

Damn the pink anti kink, it's all I have






























looks good, but i need you to add a list of the main parts you are using if you don't mind.


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## ira-k

Oh,oh someone actually asking for WC'ing Spammage....







..Round 1, more to follow...







..





































































240 aluminum channel shroud with 6-32 fan studs.








Rad fan PSU, 100W








Center cut out to keep DDC bottom open to air, they run hot.


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## Swiftes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Oh,oh someone actually asking for WC'ing Spammage....







..Round 1, more to follow...







..








]

I was waiting for you to post!


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## Syrillian

Here are some of the setups that I have or have had.


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## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
I was waiting for you to post!









..







..Isn't every day I get asked to do WC'ing pron..







..What rig this stuff goes on is just dependant on what I have on my bench or WC'ong box. No one wants a list of all the stuff I've used my gear on, it would be long and boring..









EDIT: I still love your robot looking box Syr, that is still the sickest WC'ing box I've ever seen!


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## rpm666

Ira is the king of function/form.









I'm STILL working on completing mine!

Sys1 - GTZ, 2x355's w/XSPC tops, 2xMCR320's, (now) 1xXSPC 4870X2 Razor FC
Sys2 - GT, 2x355's w/XSPC tops, 2xMCR220's, 2x3870's w/EK 3870 FC's


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## ira-k

Thank You Sir. Thats a heck of a box you've got going on there to. I love it!

Must resist, bad ira-k, no more WC'ing Spam today. I must spread the misery out over several days..


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## rpm666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Thank You Sir. Thats a heck of a box you've got going on there to. I love it!

Must resist, bad ira-k, no more WC'ing Spam today. I must spread the misery out over several days..









Spam it. Spam it like it's your freaking JOB!


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## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rpm666* 
Spam it. Spam it like it's your freaking JOB!

















Oh I will! I just want to spread it out over a few days, needs to enjoy someone actually asking for it...









I'm starting to drool and gibber, it got down to around 70F last night, it's almost OC weather again! Finally...







...I have to get a bench set up and start getting ready.


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## Slider46

Here be my setup









Danger Den MPC-CPU
Danger Den MPC-NB
Bitspower Black Freezer GTX 260
Laing/DDC Pump
Bitspower Mini-Res Top
Black Ice GTX 184 (2x92mm)
Black Ice GTX 240 (2x120mm)
Masterkleer 7/16" ID Tubing
FatBoy 1/2" OD Barbs
Feser Black/UV Blue Coolant


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## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
looks good, but i need you to add a list of the main parts you are using if you don't mind. 

Swiftech Apogee GTZ
Swiftech MCW60 R2 GPU water blocks (2 of them)
Swiftech Heatsink plate for MCW60 R2
Thermalright HSI heatsink and ramsinks for the 55nm card
Bloodrage NorthBridge Water block
XSPC Reservoir top
Thermochill PA 120.3
Master Kleer 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD
Bitspower (DD Fatboy) High Flow barbs
EK G 3/8 Thermochill barbs
Enzotech Drain port at the bottom
Plastic T
Yate Loon Medium speed fans with Sunbeam Rheobus
and some Pink anti Kink























No clamps anywhere else other than the 2 on the radiator barbs, those EK barbs aren't as fat as the Bitspower, those don't need clamps.


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## rpm666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Oh I will! I just want to spread it out over a few days, needs to enjoy someone actually asking for it...









I'm starting to drool and gibber, it got down to around 70F last night, it's almost OC weather again! Finally...







...I have to get a bench set up and start getting ready.

I woke up to 55F this morning. Getting so close to benchmarking weather. This is my last winter of outdoor rads. After this it's GeoThermal time to fight the summer temps! Plus I haven't really wierded out my neighbors lately


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## ira-k

Quote:

Quote:
Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
_looks good, but i need you to add a list of the main parts you are using if you don't mind. _
Whoops I thought he meant the boards they have been on...









I think so far whats up is this;

Stinger CPU blocks,

Stinger V-6, copper and brass top.

Stinger V-8, brass top.

Modded Stinger V-8, by me, to a 320W TEC block with integrated cold plate.

Stinger V-8P TEC block.

Modded Stinger V-8P TEC block to a 3/4" NPT jet barb inlet and 2-1/2" outs. I run it straight off a Iwaki WMD-20-RZ, don't worry about pump heat dump on TEC's. Done by the Man fstfrddy!

18W (range impeller) DDC's w/Petra and Radical tops.

Iwaki WMD 20RZ

D-5 vario

Modded Corsair Nautilus for a res cooler, 18W (Orange Impeller) DDC, 120 BIP & 6.2W 108 cfm boxed in Sunnon fan, Swifty Micro-Res. All the internal wiring changed out and a in-line temp probe.

DD bay res

Sealed actively cool 5 gallon bucket res. It has a D-5 vario, or DDC, and I either run it out to a Cheveete core or 240 BIX, whatever it's just to cool coolant on TEC rigs.

0-15psi pressure guages

Home made in-line non-restrictive temp probes with LCD read-outs.

I think thats about it, I'll just edit this as I go along to include any more WC'ing Spam.

Quote:

I woke up to 55F this morning. Getting so close to benchmarking weather. This is my last winter of outdoor rads. After this it's GeoThermal time to fight the summer temps! Plus I haven't really wierded out my neighbors lately








Just dig at night and anytime your see or hear movement from them stop for and hour or so, you also need to smile at them nicely and try to entice them over every now and then..









Get them out in the "Twighlight Zone"..









Instruction guide for freaking, as so elegantly put, make them think you'll even eat there dog..HaHa..Good clean fun for Halloween!


YouTube - Motorhead - Smiling Like A Killer


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## kevingreenbmx

Updated!

you guys are amazing! i hope my rig will end up being as nice as the least i have seen here when i am done! 

oh, and ira-k, you wanna toss some spare parts my way? you seem to have too much for any one person. 

I decided i will add everyone who posts pics, but i would really appreciate if you added what parts you use. As i said, i want people who have never watercooled before to be able to come here to help them pick out what they want for themselves. 

Keep the pics coming! this is pretty awsome.  also, please spread the idea by adding the sig tag to your sig.


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## G|F.E.A.D|Killa

add me to the list.

Dtek Fuzion V2 with custom 1366 bolt through mounts
Koolance Classified X58 waterblock
Tygon 1/2" ID black tubing
Ported D5
4 yate loon highspeed ( soon to be AFB1212VHE deltas)
Black Ice Extreme 360 Xflow for CPU
Black Ice Extreme 120 for chipset and left over heat.
DD fillport
standard T line to fill port.
Bitspower 1/2" ID barbs.


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## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G|F.E.A.D|Killa* 
add me to the list.

your wish is my command.

i really like your setup. it looks awesome.


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## ViralHack

My watercooled rig is in my sig but I'll post the pic and listing in here too when I get home.


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## Sickened1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey, sickened1, can you go back and edit your post to include a brief list of your parts?


Parts are in my sig under CPU cooling.


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## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sickened1* 
Parts are in my sig under CPU cooling.

mmk, cool. 

i am going to slack off on that rule, if people are interested they can PM or post asking.


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## ViralHack

Here is my watercooled rig:


















and the list of components:

Accessories:
Logitech X-540 70 watts 5.1 Speakers - Retail
Logitech G15 USB Wired Standard Gaming Keyboard - Retail
Logitech MX518 8 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB Wired Optical Gaming-Grade Mouse
NVidia GeForce 3D Vision
Samsung Syncmaster 2233RZ 120Hz - Maybe... want a 24"+ 120Hz!!

Main Components:
Western Digital VelociRaptor 300Gb (x2 in RAID-0) - Primary HDD
CORSAIR CMPSU-1000HX 1000W ATX12V 2.2 / EPS12V 2.91
LG Black Super Multi Blu-ray Disc Burner & HD DVD-ROM Drive SATA Model
ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
EVGA 017-P3-1297-AR CO-OP Hydro Copper GeForce GTX 295 1792MB 896
Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor
CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866

Cooling and Flare:
HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 1366
HEATKILLERÂ® Backplate 1366
Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump
Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2 reservoir
Tygon R3603 3/8in. ID 1/2in. OD - for the main track
Tygon R3603 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD - 2 connections from the Pump
Bitspower 3/8in. Compression Fittings for 1/2in. OD Tubing
Bitspower 1/2in. Compression Fittings for 3/4in. OD Tubing
Bitspower Shining Silver Rotary 45 G 1/4 Threads # BP-45-R - for the HK3.0
Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid - UV Green - 1 Liter
Breeze Miniature Hose Clamp 7/32 in. to 5/8 in. - Just for the pump
LOGISYS Computer CLK12UV 12" UV COLD CATHODE KIT
LOGISYS Computer CLK15GN 15" Green Deluxe Sound Activated Cold Cathode Kit
5mm Green LED - From Radio Shack to change out the Pwr/HDD LEDs
2 oz. Non-Spill Rosin Soldering Paste Flux - Optional
Desoldering Bulb - Optional
Desoldering strips - Optional
COOLER MASTER R4-L2R-20CG-GP 120mm Green LED Case Fans
Swiftech MCR320-QP Radiator - For the CPU (6x fans in Push/pull config)
Swiftech MCR220-QP Radiator - For the Video Card (3x fans in pull)

Enjoy!


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## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ViralHack* 
Here is my watercooled rig:

Enjoy!

That is awesome! I LOVE black and green together. 

you're added to the list.


----------



## bluedevil

Here is my submission.


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## kevingreenbmx

added.


----------



## TerryP

My Rig


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## ira-k

Quote:

oh, and ira-k, you wanna toss some spare parts my way? you seem to have too much for any one person. 
Gots to have them..







..I will go bannerize for a while!


----------



## Jrooster101

Here is my system:










Heatkiller Rev3.0 LT
Swiftech MCP355
XSPC Bay Res
TFC X-Changer 240


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## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## azcrazy

well i just finish it

mcp600
swifttech GTZ
XSPC RS360
MCW60 + swiftech heatsink
swiftech res REV2

sorry for pics but camera dont want to work right


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azcrazy* 
well i just finish it

mcp600
swifttech GTZ
XSPC RS360
MCW60 + swiftech heatsink
swiftech res REV2

sorry for pics but camera dont want to work right

wow nice, pics, came out looking better than the other pics I saw


----------



## ridn3y

CPU block: Enzotech Luna Rev.A
GPU block: MCW60 Rev.2
Reservoir: XSPC Dual Bay DDC Res
Pump: MCP-350
Tubings: PrimoFlex LRT Black 3/8"ID 1/2"OD
Fittings: Bitspower Compression Fittings for 3/8"ID 1/2"OD tubings
Radiator: Feser Monsta 420/360 Xchanger
Fans: YateLoon Medium 140mm rated 1450rpm 60CFM 29dbA (Push+Pull)
Case: Lian-Li PC7-FW

*Phenom Monsta*
































watercooling FTW!


----------



## azcrazy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
wow nice, pics, came out looking better than the other pics I saw























yea it took me 2 days to get it how i wanted , but the only thing i can say I LOVE IT


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## x9999

CPU Block - Heatkiller 3.0
GPU Block - XSPC Razor 4890
Radiator - Black Ice GTX480
Pump - MCP655
Tubing - TFC Black


----------



## G|F.E.A.D|Killa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
your wish is my command.

i really like your setup. it looks awesome.

thank you, i have alot of time into this stupid thing lol.


----------



## x9999

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ridn3y* 
CPU block: Enzotech Luna Rev.A
GPU block: MCW60 Rev.2
Reservoir: XSPC Dual Bay DDC Res
Pump: MCP-350
Tubings: PrimoFlex LRT Black 3/8"ID 1/2"OD
Fittings: Bitspower Compression Fittings for 3/8"ID 1/2"OD tubings
Radiator: Feser Monsta 420/360 Xchanger
Fans: YateLoon Medium 140mm rated 1450rpm 60CFM 29dbA (Push+Pull)
Case: Lian-Li PC7-FW

Initial dirty photos, will post some better ones soon when it's done processing

watercooling FTW!

Nice rig.


----------



## nckid4u

Here is my sig rig. 2 X GTS250 (MCW60s), Q6600 (old DD waterblock), D655 Vario, BIS360, HE 120.2, DD Dual Bay Res, Blood Red Dye, Old Rocketfish case...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nckid4u* 
Here is my sig rig. 2 X GTS250 (MCW60s), Q6600 (old DD waterblock), D655 Vario, BIS360, HE 120.2, DD Dual Bay Res, Blood Red Dye, Old Rocketfish case...

how do you like that dye? i am planning on using it in my loop i am getting in the next few months. it looks pretty good from the pics...


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.

Specs:
Swiftech MCP655-b
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCW60
Swiftech MicroRes v2
Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
18x High Speed Yate loons.











that is just..INSANE.. its like.. rad city in there hahah. plus 1


----------



## XxG3nexX

By xxg3nexx at 2009-10-03


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

that is a nice ball of tubing you have there XxG3nexX.  I cannot tell what tubes go to what.


----------



## Spawn-Inc

i think it goes

pump>rad>cpu>something (rad maybe?)>gpu1>gpu2>n/b>pum


----------



## kevingreenbmx

yea, i think your right, but what is the something? i do not see the tubes going out the case... SB maybe? no, wrong side of the mobo... idk


----------



## mfb412

i don't have a WC rig, but i figure I'd pitch in and make ya a banner









i used Xandax's HK 3.0 for the background


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
i don't have a WC rig, but i figure I'd pitch in and make ya a banner









i used Xandax's HK 3.0 for the background

















Looks awesome! ill put it up right away.  thanks! +rep


----------



## mfb412

you are most welcome


----------



## ChickenInferno

The rest of my parts arrive on Monday/Tuesday.... I will have to join this soon.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChickenInferno* 
The rest of my parts arrive on Monday/Tuesday.... I will have to join this soon.









i look forward to seeing it.


----------



## LemonSlice

New member =]

Not as neat as some of yours, but... it's watercooled right?


----------



## XxG3nexX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

that is a nice ball of tubing you have there XxG3nexX.  I cannot tell what tubes go to what. 

From what I've read your loop should be as short as possible, No one ever said it had to be pretty.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
i think it goes

pump>rad>cpu>something (rad maybe?)>gpu1>gpu2>n/b>pum


pump>rad>cpu>gpu 0>gpu 1> gpu 2> nb>


----------



## tha d0ctor

owwww memememe next



















keeping those radiators internal baby w000hhhh

edit: forgot my stuff

-120mm Swifttech QP Resevior Radiator w/ TT 120mm fan
-Danger Den DD-CPX1 (replay pump)
-ThermalTake Big Water 760is (pump/red/rad) in 2x 5.25 bay
-240mm Swifttech QP Radiator w/ 2x Coolermaster R4 at 1/2 Power
-3/8 ID Tubing - 2x 3/8 to 1/2 converters - some 1/2 ID tubing (primochill)
-Danger Den MC-TDX waterblock (lapped)
-Bloodrage Northbridge Waterblock (lapped)
-Feser xchanger 120mm radiator


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XxG3nexX* 
From what I've read your loop should be as short as possible, No one ever said it had to be pretty.

haha, i meant no offense.  looks like you did a real good job for such tight turns.


----------



## tha d0ctor

haha it looks like medusa is bustin out of that PC, holy shizz I needz a mirror b4 i be turned to stone!!!!!!!! where's perseus when you need him


----------



## XxG3nexX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, i meant no offense.  looks like you did a real good job for such tight turns. 

No offense taken man, I guess my last post could come off as defensive.


----------



## tha d0ctor

atleast you didn't need to bust out the zip ties like I did you keep your loop from crumbling under the pressure of hairpin turns!


----------



## SDriver

Good idea. Heres mine.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I like that, it is very clean looking. 

updated


----------



## sdla4ever

sdla4ever is in


----------



## Lysdexik

reserved till I finish my updates on my build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lysdexik* 
reserved till I finish my updates on my build

reserved? what is that? 

just make a new post when you get everything done, it is easier for me to keep track of the list that way.

updated.


----------



## Patch

Oooh fun! Love pic threads.

Here's my first water setup (about 6 months ago):

Apogee GTZ
MCP 655
Bloodrage Block
MCW60X2 on the 4870X2
Feser 480 with 8XScythe S-Flex G's with shrouds
GTX 120 with 2X San Ace H1011's with shrouds
Tygon 7/16 ID, 11/16 OD (can only get from Gary that I know of - and I keep him low on stock







)



















Here's my most recent (today):

Stinger V8 custom made by fstfrddy (give him a pm here on OCN)
Enzotech Sapphire NB block
MCW60
Loop 1: MCP 655, GTX 480 with 8XSan Ace H1011 with shrouds
Loop 2: MCP 655, GTX 120 with UltraKaze and shroud (have a GTX 360 coming to replace)
Rubbermaid Custom Reservoir (shared between 2 loops)

I know it's a weird setup with long tubing. I made it this way for maximum hardware changing flexibility with minimal work. I can easily have CPU, chipset, and/or GPU's on or off water for benching with DICE or LN2.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Patch* 









is that an anvil?

I'm going to be joining this club soon

As of right now I only have the rad and the barbs. I am thinking of getting a bay reservoir or FrozenQ's Inverse T-Virus reservoir

My loop is going to be:
MCP655 => XChanger 360 => HeatKiller Rev3.0 LT => Reservoir => Pump


----------



## Patch

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
is that an anvil?

Yep.

Makes a nice counterweight for the Feser 480 + shrouds and 8 fans mounted on the opposite side.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Patch* 
Yep.

Makes a nice counterweight for the Feser 480 + shrouds and 8 fans mounted on the opposite side.

That is some outrageously awesome thinking. In my book, you just won the award for most random part in a computer case.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated. (with a special mention for patch )


----------



## CD69Scorp

Here is mine!
Heatkiller: CPU-3.0, GTX295-GPU-X
Bitspower: Black Freezer W/Bs
Black Ice GTX-360 rad. with Antec Tricool push-pull fans.
MCP655 pump
MCRES Micro res.
Tygon 7/16th tubing
Feser Black UV Dye









By cd69scorp at 2009-09-07









By cd69scorp at 2009-09-07









By cd69scorp at 2009-09-07


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Darren9




----------



## tofunater

You guys have got me drooling over here. I have got to get home soon and finish my tech-station so I can get my wc loops up and running again. Air is so lame


----------



## Patch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tofunater*


Air is so lame










What do you mean? Air is great for cooling Vregs and hard drives.


----------



## tofunater

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Patch* 
What do you mean? Air is great for cooling Vregs and hard drives.

And radiators and water. Don't get smart with me, you knew what I meant.


----------



## [email protected]

Sorry for the horrible quality. ^










Btw, no colored fluids in this one. ^


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

thanks for the +rep guys. glad you agree it was a good idea.


----------



## ira-k

Well you gave up half the secret Patch, you might as well show them teh hammer you threaten the CPU with to get the last 50Mhz out of it..







..


----------



## kimosabi

Case:Tj07
CPU: Apogee GTZ(Stinger V8 soon)
Rads: 360 & 240(2xRX480 soon)
Pump:MCP655(two)
GPU 2xMCW60
Res: Magicool 250(EK multi 250 & 150 soon)
Tubez: 1/2" ID

Always working on something but this was my most recent and first/completed LC build:






NorseRad is under construction.


----------



## SDriver

cd69scorp, I love your system you did a great job on that!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Patch

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Well you gave up half the secret Patch, you might as well show them teh hammer you threaten the CPU with to get the last 50Mhz out of it..







..









Shhh!

I'd really like a new one with a shiny head. But unlike some around here, I don't have access to much Troll blood......

Great looking rigs guys and gals.


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Patch* 
Shhh!

I'd really like a new one with a shiny head. But unlike some around here, *I don't have access to much Troll blood......*

Great looking rigs guys and gals.

...







...


----------



## HAFenvy

Just finished the loop assembly yesterday - might as well throw mine into the mix. All internal rads in a mid tower case HAF 922







(yeah... I said it, the HAF 922 and not the 932







)










See Sig. for system components but water components are as follows:

CPU: Danger Den MC-TDX 1366 Water Block
Note: Added EK Supreme CPU Backplate (DD block doesn't include backplate)
GPU: Danger Den GTX285-V2 Full Coverage Water Block
Res: EK Waterblocks Multioption RES 150
Tubing: Primochill Primoflex PRO LRT UV Green 1/2ID 3/4OD
Top Rad: Swiftech MCR220
Btm Rad: Swiftech MCR120
Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Pump Option: EK-D5 X-Top Acetal Rev 2 (new housing)
Fans: GELID Wing 12
Fittings: TFC High Flow Compression Fittings (Straight and 45deg)
Fill/Drain: Danger Den Fillport Delrin Black

Fans at full speed, sitting at idle for the last couple hours - 35c on both CPU and GPU. More temperature testing to come but it runs cooler than stock air already









EDIT: Added updated and better quality photo


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HAFenvy* 
Just finished the loop assembly yesterday - might as well throw mine into the mix. All internal rads in a mid tower case HAF 922







(yeah... I said it, the HAF 922 and not the 932







)

looks awesome. 

updated.

keep adding more!


----------



## ChickenInferno

@KevinGreenBMX - you might want to add a 56K Warning to the title as even with my school's T3 lines are getting bogged down just a little bit on this page (I view 100 posts per page)


----------



## rszanto

@hafenvy, what fan are you using for the bottom radiator, the green one?


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rszanto* 
@hafenvy, what fan are you using for the bottom radiator, the green one?

All the 120mm fans in the case and on the rads are GELID Wing 12 UV Reactive Green fans (1500RPM / 64CFM). They seem to be working quite well and one thing that is really cool - you can literally just pop the fan blade out to clean it (new Nanoflex bearing design).

They seem to be pushing quite well through these Swiftechs - I'm doing temperature benchmarks on this thing now.


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Patch* 
Shhh!

I'd really like a new one with a shiny head. But unlike some around here, I don't have access to much Troll blood......

Great looking rigs guys and gals.

Will synthetic Troll Blood work? I'm sure I've got some in my lab...


----------



## crashovride02

Swiftech MCR220 Rad
Swiftech Apogee GT CPU block
Swiftech Micro Res Ver 1.0
Swiftech MCP655 pump

Coming Soon!!
DD Maze 5 GPU block
DD X-Flow Pro 120mm 1 pass rad.










PS; This is an old pic before I got my Phenom II but still the same WC setup!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## ColSanderz

Lookin real good guys!. Finally got some newer pics of my rig.

Not as fancy/creative as some of ya'lls, but she gets the job done


----------



## optiCal3

Amazing builds in here. Hopefully one day I'll have the time/patience/cash to set up a nicer one. Here's what I've got.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated.

hey, do any of you that have heat killers know if it is ok to run it upside down? i would rather run mine with the outlet above than below when i get it and was just wondering. thanks.


----------



## fstfrddy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Updated.

hey, do any of you that have heat killers know if it is ok to run it upside down? i would rather run mine with the outlet above than below when i get it and was just wondering. thanks. 

It will be fine. I don't have a heatkiller for obvious reasons but I have mounted my own in different positions. It shouldn't affect temps at all.


----------



## x9999

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Updated.

hey, do any of you that have heat killers know if it is ok to run it upside down? i would rather run mine with the outlet above than below when i get it and was just wondering. thanks. 

I did on my old Q6600 both ways, there was no difference in temps.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

thanks.


----------



## HAFenvy

Just updated the photo on my original post to a higher quality image that I took this morning when I had better light... Post 116


----------



## kevingreenbmx

looks awesome.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
looks awesome. 

Thanks - it has been a long project and I am so happy with how it turned out. Next will be some front panel stuff - just sent a part request into Cooler Master for more drive bay blanks so I can do some custom stuff - so many ideas


----------



## gsk3rd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ColSanderz* 
Lookin real good guys!. Finally got some newer pics of my rig.

Not as fancy/creative as some of ya'lls, but she gets the job done




































Amazing set up. +rep.


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 









Nice I never thought of using a Fan-grill to hold the pump above the bottom fan!


----------



## ColSanderz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gsk3rd* 
Amazing set up. +rep.

thanks bro









I'm sure all watercoolers feel the same, but it was a blast setting up the loop...

Makes me a little sad that I'm gonna have to take most of it apart so I can fit the monsta/heatkiller in there lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I know there are more people out there than this.  c'mon and post some pics. you know you want to brag about your hard work.


----------



## Kriztoffer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Thank You Sir. Thats a heck of a box you've got going on there to. I love it!

Must resist, bad ira-k, no more WC'ing Spam today. I must spread the misery out over several days..










Haha, I love your stuff. Post more images please, master Ira


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I know there are more people out there than this.  c'mon and post some pics. you know you want to brag about your hard work. 

Actually putting it together tonight. I'll be sure to post lots of pron for your viewing pleasure.


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I know there are more people out there than this.  c'mon and post some pics. you know you want to brag about your hard work. 

a bit lazy to take the pictures actuallly, im sure there is more. lol. too bad i only have quarter inch liquid cooling... ugh. i need to has more !


----------



## mfb412

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I know there are more people out there than this.  c'mon and post some pics. you know you want to brag about your hard work. 

i've been considering for a long time building a simple CPU only loop (MCP355 w/restop, EK Supreme, Black Ice GTS 240 Lite) but i've had to put it off due to my dad's health expenses (stomach cancer is a PITA)


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChickenInferno* 
Actually putting it together tonight. I'll be sure to post lots of pron for your viewing pleasure.









Update on the incoming pron: This has been two days of shear horror, and everything that could go wrong has gone wrong and then some. I forgot a spacer on the CPU block so it was grounding and the mobo wouldn't start, the chipset block was grounding due to AS5 slighty touching one of the components and spreading out to touch it only when tightened down, chipset block was a nightmare to install, the stock mosfet/chipset cooler is one piece unlike what some people had told me so I had to cut my stock heatsink in half to cool the mosfets, I was a dummy and decided to leak test before mounting my chipset block (NIGHTMARE), I tried mounting my chipset block (already bad) with it attached to tubes and completely filled with water ending with water going all over my board and needing to use a hair drier to evap the water, I have had to recut tubbing so many times due to slight last minute changes that it's ridiculious, the backplate for my heatkiller will not fit/work due to the metal piece ASUS puts on the back of the socket (wasted money), my drill wouldn't get through my case to mount the pump, the pump came with a stripped allen bolt so trying to put on the new top was almost impossible (major props to my roommate Marcel who brute forced it with a screwdriver that didn't even fit), the radbox by swiftech cannot nearly hold the weight of the BIX 480; 8XSan Aces; and 8xShrouds so it must be propped up with books (which are wet), first leak test failed and shot water all over the books (rad), I found out very quickly that I need oodles of fan extensions as all of the fan wires are extremely short, three of the 8 fans' wires came out of their crimping while testing so I must order in crimpes to fix them, I spent 6 hours trying to figure out which was the inlet vs. outlet on my chipset block before I found out that A) no one seems to have my block and B) it doesn't seem to matter, and finally after getting everything setup and having a 12hr leak test...the chipset grounded again forcing me to rip everything down and almost start over (last night at 10pm).

but...I think it's done now....I really hope. Will take pics and actually turn the thing on tonight after work.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Wow. I hope everything ends up better for you.


----------



## HAFenvy

Ouch... hopefully today goes better after all that chaos. Reminds me of a thread I read yesterday where the guy installed his system and couldn't figure out his problems until he realized he installed everything without any standoffs under his motherboard --- "Card catches fire"

Things Grounding = Bad


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HAFenvy* 
Ouch... hopefully today goes better after all that chaos. Reminds me of a thread I read yesterday where the guy installed his system and couldn't figure out his problems until he realized he installed everything without any standoffs under his motherboard --- "Card catches fire"

Things Grounding = Bad

My friends first ever build was a Giga P45 mobo, 9800GT, Q9550 and a WD hdd with an Ultra psu, he forgot to put standoffs on, first time he powers it on POP, bad smell from the PSU.....but the PC still turned on and it works now after the standoffs



































and he has it at 3.83 Ghz

He got very lucky, very.


----------



## cky2k6

swiftech gtz
swiftech mcr 320
black ice pro ii
xspc fc 4870x2
swiftech nbmax
laing d5 vario
ek 250 res

flash on
 
flash off


----------



## losttsol

MCP655
MCR320-QP w/ 3 x Noctua P12's currently
D-Tek FuZion v1
DangerDen Dual Bay Reservoir.
Tygon 5/8" O.D. 7/16" I.D.
Primochill w/ UV Green Dye Bomb


----------



## cooper_inc1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HAFenvy* 
Just finished the loop assembly yesterday - might as well throw mine into the mix. All internal rads in a mid tower case HAF 922







(yeah... I said it, the HAF 922 and not the 932







)










See Sig. for system components but water components are as follows:

CPU: Danger Den MC-TDX 1366 Water Block
Note: Added EK Supreme CPU Backplate (DD block doesn't include backplate)
GPU: Danger Den GTX285-V2 Full Coverage Water Block
Res: EK Waterblocks Multioption RES 150
Tubing: Primochill Primoflex PRO LRT UV Green 1/2ID 3/4OD
Top Rad: Swiftech MCR220
Btm Rad: Swiftech MCR120
Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Pump Option: EK-D5 X-Top Acetal Rev 2 (new housing)
Fans: GELID Wing 12
Fittings: TFC High Flow Compression Fittings (Straight and 45deg)
Fill/Drain: Danger Den Fillport Delrin Black

Fans at full speed, sitting at idle for the last couple hours - 35c on both CPU and GPU. More temperature testing to come but it runs cooler than stock air already









EDIT: Added updated and better quality photo









Nice build!
Does the danger den have the same problem as the heatkiller where two 1/2" compression clamps won't fit? I ask that because I see you have an angled fitting on it and wondering if its for looks or is it because its needed.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cooper_inc1* 
Nice build!
Does the danger den have the same problem as the heatkiller where two 1/2" compression clamps won't fit? I ask that because I see you have an angled fitting on it and wondering if its for looks or is it because its needed.

Thanks! And for your questions... Yes, yes and yes.

Two of the Straight TFC 1/2in ID 3/4 OD compression fittings will not fit on the DD MC-TDX block side by side. That is ok because using the 45 allowed me to angle my run to the radiator which I like better anyway. Go HERE to my build log to see a closer photos of the CPU block... you'll see how much bigger the straight compression section is compared to the 45 degree base which are maybe 2mm apart at the most right now.

Now if I was using 3/8in Tube with 5/8OD... two of those sized TFC straight fittings might be ok but I am not sure what the diameter difference is. Glad I bought some of the 45's, they helped me out and they swivel too which is handy for adjusting their rotation position.


----------



## cooper_inc1

Nice, I'll pick some up for when I transfer my water cooling setup to my haf 932, compression fittings are the best looking/functioning barbs and clamping all in one solution in my opinion so I was so pissed off when I had to put two fat boy barbs on my HeatKiller.

I'm sure the look on my face when I tried to fit two compression clamps on my HK was priceless. I know I screamed out "uve gotta be kidding me!"

Edit:

Was this the fitting you bought?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

hey, does anyone know for sure that straight 3/8" compressions will or will not fit on a heat killer? i was planning on doing that.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cooper_inc1* 
....I'm sure the look on my face when I tried to fit two compression clamps on my HK was priceless. I know I screamed out "uve gotta be kidding me!"

Edit:

Was this the fitting you bought?

Yeah I had a few words come out of my mouth followed by "Oh well" because I already had bought 45's just in case I change my tubing plans (which I did several times). I'm not using Bitspower, all my fittings are TFC that I got from a guy in Canada --- Dazmode - TFC 45Deg Fittings

I'm in Canada, he's in Canada, no import duties or taxes for me to add onto my purchases from buying stuff in the US. Hence, I got all my gear from NCIX and Dazmode


----------



## indypokat76

I have an Antec 300 with a watercooled system in the works. When I'm finished with it my sig rig will be disassembled for a powdercoat paint job and a few other mods. I'll try to keep y'all updated on all that thar!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.  who wants to be the 50th member?


----------



## Protezione

Ill be # 50!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Wow, props to hafenvy, indypozak, and Protetezione, nice setups guys


----------



## mfb412

kinda freakish how a single 240 rad can effectively cool an E8400 and 2x GPU's


----------



## [email protected]'D

myn as of a week ago


















ohh forgot the list of my stuff

Erm
GTZ With intel 775 mount
XSPC RS240 Rad
MCP355 pump


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

I might as well join up. Not the greatest parts, but it's done well. And I've learned a lot with it. Enough I will likely water cool my next rig as well.

Swiftech Apogee GT
Swiftech MCRES V1
Swiftech 240 Rad
Danger Den CPX-1
1/2" fittings w/ 1/2" ID heater hose tubing

Older pics, but it's too dusty to be taking pics of now. I haven't touched anything in months, which is a record for me.


----------



## ViralHack

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
myn as of a week ago










ohh forgot the list of my stuff

Erm
GTZ With intel 775 mount
XSPC RS240 Rad
MCP355 pump

Woah! Fill that Res man you're scaring me!


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ViralHack* 
Woah! Fill that Res man you're scaring me!









It is full







just the coolant isn't very red


----------



## l4n b0y

Does this count..


----------



## ChickenInferno

Setup:
Heatkiller 3.0 Copper
Bitspower Black Freezer RIIE Chipset block
MCP355 Pump w/ XSPC Res. Top
Black Ice Extreme Gen II 480mm Rad.
8x San Ace 120
8x 38mm Shrouds
Masterkeeler 7/16ID 11/16OD Tubing
Wormdrive clips
+Sig Rig




























One of the fan headers that pulled apart from hanging the Sunbeam for too long.









In case you were wondering, yes the rad is being held up by books. Dark Tower VI: Song of Susannah (Stephen King), Harry Potter 7 (JK Rowling), Insomnia (Stephen King)



























I found out later (when I put everything back in my case for the third time) that I wasn't just grounding but that I had inadvertantly hurt my 24-pin connector with the paperclip trick so it won't turn on unless the plug is pulled out a little bit









HK Pron









So I destroyed my room









Really destroyed it









Bowl filled with yummy bolts









Stock chipset heatsink that I cut in half with my dremel (For anyone that thought I was kidding about all of the trouble I had).









At least they used copper for the heatpipe.









The white spacer underneath the chipset block was the bane of my existence. You put the screw with a spacer through the back of the mobo, you flip the motherboard over with the help of a box (so the screws don't fall out), put the white spacers on the front, place the chipset block on the screws, pray, pray some more, flip the motherboard over again so you can see the back, hope that none of the white spacers moved, screw in all 6 allen screws without losing a single spacer, flip it back over and find out one moved, break something (not computer related), and start again.


----------



## Protezione

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
kinda freakish how a single 240 rad can effectively cool an E8400 and 2x GPU's

Keep in mind im using push pull with YL Low speeds, and Scythe S-Flex 800rpms :> Keeps em nice and frosty still, high 40's to low 50s at full load.


----------



## indypokat76

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Wow, props to hafenvy, indypozak, and Protetezione, nice setups guys









ty


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

This is the best club evah







i love the rigs in here....









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson* 
I might as well join up. Not the greatest parts, but it's done well. And I've learned a lot with it. Enough I will likely water cool my next rig as well.

Swiftech Apogee GT
Swiftech MCRES V1
Swiftech 240 Rad
Danger Den CPX-1
1/2" fittings w/ 1/2" ID heater hose tubing

Older pics, but it's too dusty to be taking pics of now. I haven't touched anything in months, which is a record for me.











each time i see your rig, its freakin amazing









Quote:


Originally Posted by *l4n b0y* 
Does this count..

















nice torture rack







i bet it performs good enough...


----------



## cooper_inc1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *l4n b0y* 
Does this count..


















One hell of a setup, nice work.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Yea I can see it's about 85% full.


----------



## 102014

i havnt got any pics of my loop in the new case, but i will take a pic probably tommow and post it up here


----------



## dpress01

Not sure if im doing this correctly, but here it is.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Wow, props to hafenvy, indypozak, and Protetezione, nice setups guys









Thanks... more to come... just finished installing my 4-channel fan controller and... of course... sleeving all those cables and once again burying them so all that work goes unseen hahahaha (which is the point... where are all my cables??)

Going to post to my build shortly some interesting things I did with my fan wiring setup


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
This is the best club evah







i love the rigs in here....
















each time i see your rig, its freakin amazing









Thanks! Trade ya! My hardware is getting a little old. And I thought my rig was one of the lowliest (word?) in the club, nice to see some others appreciate it. To me it's almost perfect. For what it is, anyway. I was going to maybe put another rad in the top, but I think I am just going to leave this thing as is and put any funds towards a new build.


----------



## ericld

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChickenInferno* 
Setup:
Heatkiller 3.0 Copper
Bitspower Black Freezer RIIE Chipset block
MCP355 Pump w/ XSPC Res. Top
Black Ice Extreme Gen II 480mm Rad.
8x San Ace 120
8x 38mm Shrouds
Masterkeeler 7/16ID 11/16OD Tubing
Wormdrive clips
+Sig Rig




























One of the fan headers that pulled apart from hanging the Sunbeam for too long.









In case you were wondering, yes the rad is being held up by books. Dark Tower VI: Song of Susannah (Stephen King), Harry Potter 7 (JK Rowling), Insomnia (Stephen King)



























I found out later (when I put everything back in my case for the third time) that I wasn't just grounding but that I had inadvertantly hurt my 24-pin connector with the paperclip trick so it won't turn on unless the plug is pulled out a little bit









HK Pron









So I destroyed my room









Really destroyed it









Bowl filled with yummy bolts









Stock chipset heatsink that I cut in half with my dremel (For anyone that thought I was kidding about all of the trouble I had).









At least they used copper for the heatpipe.









The white spacer underneath the chipset block was the bane of my existence. You put the screw with a spacer through the back of the mobo, you flip the motherboard over with the help of a box (so the screws don't fall out), put the white spacers on the front, place the chipset block on the screws, pray, pray some more, flip the motherboard over again so you can see the back, hope that none of the white spacers moved, screw in all 6 allen screws without losing a single spacer, flip it back over and find out one moved, break something (not computer related), and start again.










Impressive. Should cool well, your rad and fans are almost as big as your rig.


----------



## binormalkilla

I'll go ahead and up my current pics. My tubes are looking gross







I only run distilled with PT nuke now. I have the following:
GTX480 8x120mm push pull
MCP655
XSPC full coverage 4870x2 block
D-Tek Fuzion v1 nozzled
EK multioption 250 res
Danger Den X38 MCP NB block


















BTW I'm a terrible photographer...either that or my camera just sucks. I can't get the lighting to show up well at all.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Looks good I was just wondering what was up with the tubes LOL. got soem growth going?







Fungus party up in there?


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericld* 
Impressive. Should cool well, your rad and fans are almost as big as your rig.

68C Load at 4.42ghz with 1.376v yes... I'm *very very* pleased.

I just wish that I had my fan extension cables so I could put the fan controllers in my case and be done with it. I've also inadvertantly destroyed 3 headers by having the controllers dangle and pull them out of the crimps. Extensions and new headers/crimps should be here by wednsday and I'll post up a pic of how it looks 100% finished rather than the 95% it is right now.


----------



## ericld

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChickenInferno* 
68C Load at 4.42ghz with 1.376v yes... I'm *very very* pleased.

I just wish that I had my fan extension cables so I could put the fan controllers in my case and be done with it. I've also inadvertantly destroyed 3 headers by having the controllers dangle and pull them out of the crimps. Extensions and new headers/crimps should be here by wednsday and I'll post up a pic of how it looks 100% finished rather than the 95% it is right now.

But has your mom seen your room yet. shame shame.

Oop, I just saw you are a research chemist. You have an excuse. Its in your DNA to conduct experiments in your sleep.


----------



## ezikiel12

1st water setup


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericld* 
But has your mom seen your room yet. shame shame.

Oop, I just saw you are a research chemist. You have an excuse. Its in your DNA to conduct experiments in your sleep.

In my sleep is pretty much right. After work and classes, I would start working on it and some nights that means starting at 10PM and working until 3AM just to go to work at 7. At least it's pretty much done now...and my room is much better than it was in those pictures (still not good by any means)


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Looks good I was just wondering what was up with the tubes LOL. got soem growth going?







Fungus party up in there?









That's Tygon for you :\\
Sometime I'll need to replace all of the tubing and start fresh........but that won't be for a very long time


----------



## Slider46

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ezikiel12* 
1st water setup

Not bad









I'd personally go with black or blood red coolant to go with the red LEDs/Cathode


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson* 
Thanks! Trade ya! My hardware is getting a little old. And I thought my rig was one of the lowliest (word?) in the club, nice to see some others appreciate it. To me it's almost perfect. For what it is, anyway. I was going to maybe put another rad in the top, but I think I am just going to leave this thing as is and put any funds towards a new build.

hehe, without the hardware







ill keep that


----------



## optiCal3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tofunater* 
You guys have got me drooling over here. I have got to get home soon and finish my tech-station so I can get my wc loops up and running again. Air is so lame









Air is only for breathing, Go water!!!!


----------



## slim123

Here's mine, i recently changed to "black" coolant (which is actually purple







)

I used to have Red, but i changed that and added a T-line and Fillport































































Hope You Like It


----------



## Kriztoffer

This weekend I've been playing around with my new 775 setup for overclocking.

Loop;
Swiftech MCR 360 w/ 3x Scythe Ultra Kaze 3k rpm with 38mm shrounds.
CPU block Swiftech GTX
pump mcp655
Coolant: Car anti-freeze coolant mixed with slight distilled water.

Radiator was hanging out the window for best temps, there is wintertime where I live now, so the temp outside was about - 4c.

Socket was isolated with knead eraser and two sheets of neoprene.









A celleron 331, tbh boring chip..only 4.5ghz so far..









Before ant freeze coolant and isolating.









Ant-freeze and distilled water.










After I was done, neoprene and knead eraser was removed.
The longe life anti-freeze coolant is pink...yes very sexy


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kriztoffer* 
This weekend I've been playing around with my new 775 setup for overclocking.

Loop;
Swiftech MCR 360 w/ 3x Scythe Ultra Kaze 3k rpm with 38mm shrounds.
CPU block Swiftech GTX
pump mcp655
Coolant: Car anti-freeze coolant mixed with slight distilled water.

Radiator was hanging out the window for best temps, there is wintertime where I live now, so the temp outside was about - 4c.

Socket was isolated with knead eraser and two sheets of neoprene.

A celleron 331, tbh boring chip..only 4.5ghz so far..

Before ant freeze coolant and isolating.

Ant-freeze and distilled water.










After I was done, neoprene and knead eraser was removed.
The longe life anti-freeze coolant is pink...yes very sexy









Very Nice! I can't wait for the long winter of -15C and below. Last night was down at around 5C, but still not cold enough.


----------



## Kriztoffer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChickenInferno* 
Very Nice! I can't wait for the long winter of -15C and below. Last night was down at around 5C, but still not cold enough.

Where I live, somtimes we can reach -40 lol


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Meh. They're crap pictures, but they're all I've got until I have time to take some nice ones.










































And my previous setup









Gear in my current machine:
AMD Opteron 165 @ 2.7ghz
DFI Lanparty UT NF4 SLI-DR
Sapphire 4830
2GB DDR adata
1TB and 250GB Samsungs
Enermax Noisetaker 2 600W
CM690 nVidia edition
Creative SB X-Fi eXtreme Music

Cooling
CPU block: Silverprop Evolution SE waterblock
GPU block: Silverprop Cyclone Fusion
Danger Den pump
120 Radiator (idk what brand. purchased it off the NZ equivalent of ebay)
1 Scythe Slipstream (noisy as hell and I hate it)
1 Cooler Master fan (idk what model but it's cool)
and an 80mm Arctic cooling fan to keep the top of the gfx card cool and keep air circulating.

I've yet to paint my case. That's happening when I have enough money for my i7 upgrade







Didn't wanna chip the paint moving the gear in and out of the case.


----------



## ViralHack

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kriztoffer* 
Where I live, somtimes we can reach -40 lol









Now, if I could only figure out how to run my water loop using my gf's feet for cooling... those are -80C even when its melting cars outside!


----------



## bobfig

i guess ill join







since its that time of the year


----------



## ViralHack

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Meh. They're crap pictures, but they're all I've got until I have time to take some nice ones.


















Okay you're gonna get the obligatory "FILL YOUR RES!!!" comment.







Makes me nervous.


----------



## Hindsight

bobfig, what's in that wooden box?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hindsight* 
bobfig, what's in that wooden box?

lmao every time i post these pics every one asks









its a starving student headphone amp. i made the box to house the amp.
more picks here: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/mil...ml#post5775948


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ViralHack* 
Okay you're gonna get the obligatory "FILL YOUR RES!!!" comment.







Makes me nervous.

You're nervous for no reason then. There is no rule that states a reservoir must be full in order for it to do it's job. I don't see why you would believe that. My reservoir is a standard kitchen container so it is not fully sealed at the top, meaning there is no way I would want it full as I move my pc a lot and it would leak over my hardware. Doesn't matter how much water you have in your res, as long as the water is moving through the tubes then it's not going to be a problem. Only issue I see with a reservoir not completely full is the sound of the water trickling.


----------



## junkyard00000

Low levels can start a vortex which will suck in large air bubbles, which will break up and take up space in your radiator, pump impeller, and blocks.
Yours doesn't look low enough/ high flow enough for this to happen, but its one reason to watch your res levels.


----------



## mth91

I'm about to be a part of this club as soon as my pump and rad get here. Already got the blocks and tubing.


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mth91* 
I'm about to be a part of this club as soon as my pump and rad get here. Already got the blocks and tubing.

yay me too.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *junkyard00000* 
Low levels can start a vortex which will suck in large air bubbles, which will break up and take up space in your radiator, pump impeller, and blocks.
Yours doesn't look low enough/ high flow enough for this to happen, but its one reason to watch your res levels.

Oh I'm well aware of that. I'm fairly annoyed that someone who knows nothing about my system and its design is telling me that I need to fill up my tank when I am the one who built it and has thought about this stuff already. There are reasons why I do not fill this tank up completely and I feel it's a little presumptuous to make that kind of call without knowing the circumstances :S My pump is not running as fast as it could be due to having a broken fan controller slot. Even if it were on full power my water level is still acceptable. It's near full and I never let it drop down past the bottom of the output tube from the CPU block. Even since those pictures were taken I've topped it up further. Like I said, if I fill my tank up to the top, I'm going to have leaks and I'd really rather not have that happen. Sorry if I come across poorly, but I'm quite annoyed. I may be a girl but I do know what I'm doing -.-


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Oh I'm well aware of that. I'm fairly annoyed that someone who knows nothing about my system and its design is telling me that I need to fill up my tank when I am the one who built it and has thought about this stuff already. There are reasons why I do not fill this tank up completely and I feel it's a little presumptuous to make that kind of call without knowing the circumstances :S My pump is not running as fast as it could be due to having a broken fan controller slot. Even if it were on full power my water level is still acceptable. It's near full and I never let it drop down past the bottom of the output tube from the CPU block. Even since those pictures were taken I've topped it up further. Like I said, if I fill my tank up to the top, I'm going to have leaks and I'd really rather not have that happen. Sorry if I come across poorly, but I'm quite annoyed. I may be a girl but I do know what I'm doing -.-

Wow. Note to self, don't give friendly suggestion/reminders to spindermonkey.


----------



## Eastrider

I stared at this thread too long. Now I can't look at the Haven without crying out loud why mah W/C looks so BAD.

Will take pics when finished (~4 days). Hope you don't laugh too much!


----------



## ViralHack

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
Wow. Note to self, don't give friendly suggestion/reminders to spindermonkey.

Agreed. Next time I will ask for a complete system workup before being silly and telling someone to fill their res.


----------



## yutzybrian

EK Multioption Res --> Swiftech MCP355 w/ XSPC Top --> Black Ice Extreme III --> Swiftech Apogee GTZ









Details of system in sig

*edit*

Man almost forgot this one

Swiftech MCP355 Pump
XSPC Top for MCP355
X-Flow Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator
Yate Loon 120mmx20mm Medium Speed Fan x4
Bitspower 5.25" Bay Reservoir
Koolance 3/8" Quick Disconnect L-Bracket
Koolance F Splitter (3/8" to 2 1/4")
3/8" Clear Tubing (for inside the cooling box)
3/8" UV Orange Tubing (for in between the cooling box and laptop)
1/4" Clear Tubing
Bitspower Black Sparkle G1/4" Barb Fitting for 3/8" ID


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Oh I'm well aware of that. I'm fairly annoyed that someone who knows nothing about my system and its design is telling me that I need to fill up my tank when I am the one who built it and has thought about this stuff already. There are reasons why I do not fill this tank up completely and I feel it's a little presumptuous to make that kind of call without knowing the circumstances :S My pump is not running as fast as it could be due to having a broken fan controller slot. Even if it were on full power my water level is still acceptable. It's near full and I never let it drop down past the bottom of the output tube from the CPU block. Even since those pictures were taken I've topped it up further. Like I said, if I fill my tank up to the top, I'm going to have leaks and I'd really rather not have that happen. Sorry if I come across poorly, but I'm quite annoyed. I may be a girl but I do know what I'm doing -.-

aw, come on, he was just trying to help. A lot of people are uncomfortable with their res being low and that's how they see everyone else should be. We're all guilty of it in some way. just don't let it get to ya, it's all in good fun


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

@ spidermonkey Im sure it wasnt meant to make you angry or something like that, he tried to help you....

@ yutzybrian Whats that low profile thing?


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Oh I'm well aware of that. I'm fairly annoyed that someone who knows nothing about my system and its design is telling me that I need to fill up my tank when I am the one who built it and has thought about this stuff already. There are reasons why I do not fill this tank up completely and I feel it's a little presumptuous to make that kind of call without knowing the circumstances :S My pump is not running as fast as it could be due to having a broken fan controller slot. Even if it were on full power my water level is still acceptable. It's near full and I never let it drop down past the bottom of the output tube from the CPU block. Even since those pictures were taken I've topped it up further. Like I said, if I fill my tank up to the top, I'm going to have leaks and I'd really rather not have that happen. Sorry if I come across poorly, but I'm quite annoyed. I may be a girl but I do know what I'm doing -.-

Hi.









I wouldn't take it personally.

In most situations like this the commentary is out of concern, not a criticism.

That aside, you are quite correct insofar as each persons system having it's specific quirks.


----------



## caraboose

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.

Specs:
Swiftech MCP655-b
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCW60
Swiftech MicroRes v2
Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
18x High Speed Yate loons.

[URL=http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2861/img0328f.jpg%5B/IG]http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2861/img0328f.jpg[/IG[/URL]]
[/TD]
[/TR][/TABLE]
That must be a pain in the ass to bleed / fill.

As for me:
[IMG alt=""]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q48/masterchief1212/33a66b49.jpg
2 MCR220 QP Res
Apogee GTZ
MCP655


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
@ yutzybrian Whats that low profile thing?

In which the desktop or laptop?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Sorry for coming across so grumpy y'all. I'm a nice person really, I just care a LOT about my system and have put so much time and love into it that I do get upset whenever someone says something about it that I completely disagree with. Apologies for the crazy responses







I've had watercooled systems before but this is the first one that I built myself so I was very careful to make sure it was all just right. Again I do apologise for the way I came across


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yutzybrian* 
In which the desktop or laptop?

This one:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yutzybrian* 









[edit]i guess i found it, is it your laptop?







if it is, its pretty insane...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Sorry for coming across so grumpy y'all. I'm a nice person really, I just care a LOT about my system and have put so much time and love into it that I do get upset whenever someone says something about it that I completely disagree with. Apologies for the crazy responses







I've had watercooled systems before but this is the first one that I built myself so I was very careful to make sure it was all just right. Again I do apologise for the way I came across









I understand that you care about a system you did all by yourselve. Ive done it too, and it gives the feeling its all yours







nice that you offer your apologies. Anyways, youve got a darn good looking system, cause its all green and in one of my favorite cases...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
I understand that you care about a system you did all by yourselve. Ive done it too, and it gives the feeling its all yours







nice that you offer your apologies. Anyways, youve got a darn good looking system, cause its all green and in one of my favorite cases...









Considering it's the first time I've done a cooling loop without my bf doing everything for me, I'm very proud of it. And obviously quite defensive lol... I've been working a lot on humility and apologising if I'm in the wrong but I think it's time to focus on being slow to anger lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated with all 14 new members.  sorry it took a while, was at my sister's wedding.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Considering it's the first time I've done a cooling loop without my bf doing everything for me, I'm very proud of it. And obviously quite defensive lol... I've been working a lot on humility and apologising if I'm in the wrong but I think it's time to focus on being slow to anger lol.

hehe, you have some reason to be proud








but ye, its alwasy good to calm down before you post. Ive seen a lot of guys exploding on forums and the next day they wish they didnt say what they said... but than you are too late. You'd better turn your pc off and come back the next day









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated with all 14 new members.  sorry it took a while, was at my sister's wedding.

w00t, its going real fast







and congrats on the wedding


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

This thread is most deffinetely worthy of being stickied on my Bookmarks toolbar












































Massive win is plastered all over and this thread provides new comers with ideas of how to setup WCng in lots of different cases.


----------



## Mitchell7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Considering it's the first time I've done a cooling loop without my bf doing everything for me, I'm very proud of it. And obviously quite defensive lol... I've been working a lot on humility and apologising if I'm in the wrong but I think it's time to focus on being slow to anger lol.

I thought it looked awesome mate!









I cant wait to jump on the watercooling bandwagon after seeing all these great rigs!


----------



## [email protected]

has any 1 got any old or unwanted watercooling parts or anything you dont use any more that could help me out as we have just had a baby he 5weeks old and dont have a lot of money no more to speed on the pc

any help would help me out thanks andy


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
has any 1 got any old or unwanted watercooling parts or anything you dont use any more that could help me out as we have just had a baby he 5weeks old and dont have a lot of money no more to speed on the pc

any help would help me out thanks andy









Post this in the wanted section, not the water cooling section.


----------



## zaeric19

I was gonna wait until I traded my rad for a 2x120 and finished modding my case but why the hell not put this up. Here is my system atm.

HWLabs GTX360
3x 86.5 CFM Panaflos w/ gutted 25mm fans for shrouds.
Fuzion v2
MCP655
Swiftech MCRes v2


----------



## [email protected]'D

I love the in-genious use of pencils


----------



## MeeksMan13

I'll be posting up some pictures soon of the parts I have (rad, tubing, clamps, and barbs)


----------



## zaeric19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
I love the in-genious use of pencils









saves me from having to get another top panel when I get a new radiator.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
This thread is most deffinetely worthy of being stickied on my Bookmarks toolbar












































Massive win is plastered all over and this thread provides new comers with ideas of how to setup WCng in lots of different cases.

Thanks.  I thought it would be a good idea.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
hehe, you have some reason to be proud








but ye, its alwasy good to calm down before you post. Ive seen a lot of guys exploding on forums and the next day they wish they didnt say what they said... but than you are too late. You'd better turn your pc off and come back the next day










Lol yeah I know. That's kinda what happened I guess. Went to bed, woke up and thought "ahhhh lame. That was OTT"


----------



## MeeksMan13

Pretty Matte Black Bitspower 1/2" barb








A cool shot of the TFC XChanger 360








Another cool shot








And yet another lol








7/16" ID 11/16" OD Tygon R-3603








Another of the barb with the other 9








And another








And all that I have so far


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
Pretty Matte Black Bitspower 1/4" barb








A cool shot of the TFC XChanger 360








Another cool shot








And yet another lol








7/16" ID 11/16" OD Tygon R-3603








Another of the barb with the other 9








And another








And all that I have so far

















*brb changing pants*





























at the barbs


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
*brb changing pants*





























at the barbs

lol. ty. Sometimes I'll just pull out a barb and admire it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## KarmaKiller




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
*brb changing pants*





























at the barbs

HaHa...







..







..Those are sick, I like them to...


----------



## HAFenvy

Throw a couple barbs on top of the radiator and take a similar shot to the second radiator shot "Another Cool Shot" and you have yourself one heck of a nice desktop background on your hands


----------



## JaCkHoLe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
HaHa...







..







..Those are sick, I like them to...









they are pretty nice when they are new, but once i installed mine some of the black paint scratched off to reveal the brass underneath







very sad


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
HaHa...







..







..Those are sick, I like them to...









I know they look good when they get the ira-k seal of approval









Quote:


Originally Posted by *HAFenvy* 
Throw a couple barbs on top of the radiator and take a similar shot to the second radiator shot "Another Cool Shot" and you have yourself one heck of a nice desktop background on your hands









dude. that's an AMAZING idea. I may do that. first I'm gonna get some masking tape so I can keep stuff out of the rad once I put the barbs on.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JaCkHoLe* 
they are pretty nice when they are new, but once i installed mine some of the black paint scratched off to reveal the brass underneath







very sad

aw. sad day







hopefully mine won't do that lol


----------



## GeforceGTS

Heres my simple CPU loop, sorry for not so great pics.

I plan on ditching the orange fans/tubing and going black







Tubing also needs shortening :l


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## qUAan

Heres mine


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

wow, thats pretty freeking cool! i like that res man!! and o/c the cosmos s...


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Ohhh, T-Virus res looks spectacular!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

i love that res. does it come in red?


----------



## triggs75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

i love that res. does it come in red?

This is from the xtremesystems.org forum Here

Looks like they are custom made with different colors


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GeforceGTS* 
Heres my simple CPU loop, sorry for not so great pics.

I plan on ditching the orange fans/tubing and going black







Tubing also needs shortening :l










Aww, don't ditch the orange, it looks great! All black gets boring real quick. It's always cool to have a 'feature colour' in a case. Mine is green. When I paint the case I'm painting all but the hdd and 5.2" bays black. The latter will be painted green to go with my green tubing and green highlights. (I have an nVidia case ;P)

It's up to you, but I think the orange looks awesome!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

i agree, stick with the orange.  it looks awesome.


----------



## Spart

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
This is from the xtremesystems.org forum Here

Looks like they are custom made with different colors


You could also buy them from here. Frozen was an OCN Artisan. Sadly he is only taking custom orders now. Regular T-Virus res's in standard colors should be available at a US retailer soon he says.

I just got mine in the mail. Can't wait to make the move back to water cooling and join the club.

Here's a pic of my Res.


----------



## cooper_inc1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *qUAan* 
Heres mine









OMG, if your res starts leaking there is gonna be zombies! Beautifully crafted. Saw these a while back but first time seeing them in an actual build, nice job







:


----------



## junkyard00000

Here's mine.








Dtek Fuzion V2
Dtek Fuzion V2 (graphics)
Liang D5
MCR-320
EK Multioption Res 250


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JaCkHoLe* 
they are pretty nice when they are new, but once i installed mine some of the black paint scratched off to reveal the brass underneath







very sad

That sux. Can you touch them up up a sharpie with-out it being real obvious?

Quote:

I know they look good when they get the ira-k seal of approval








Well Thank Ya..







..







They are sick, I like that look a lot!


----------



## gsk3rd

Check it!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

checked and updated ;-)

that is a really neat effect you captured there with the leds and the fan blades.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Well Thank Ya..







..







They are sick, I like that look a lot!

lol. np. I may go compression fitting over christmas break. in which case I would get this


----------



## triggs75

Components;
Â»HAF 922
Â»CPU: Intel Core i7 940 OC'd to 3.69
Â»Motherboard: Evga X58
Â»EVGA GeForce GTX 295
Â»CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3x2GB)

Water cool parts;
Â»RAD - XSPC RS360 & XSPC RS120
Â»CPU Block - Alphacool H14 Yellowstone BRB
Â»Koolance Northbridge/Southbridge Water Block
Â»Black Feeser Mosfet Block
Â»EK-Multioption RES 150
Â»Swiftech MCP655â„¢ Series 12 VDC Water Pump
Â»Koolance-D5 X-TOP



















More pics in my build log Here

I have some lighting, LED's coming this week to lighten it up a little. I am also going to convert my side panel into a side window. The window will be similar to HAFEnvy's window mod, but might put a fan through it. Just not sure yet.

Chad


----------



## CD69Scorp

triggs75, I love blue, but that red is SICK!! Very nice job. Also eveyone else.
This is so cool that we can post our rigs and admire everyones setup. And get new ideas! Great job everyone!!!

PS. Is everybody as addicted to this as I am???


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp* 
triggs75, I love blue, but that red is SICK!! Very nice job. Also eveyone else.
This is so cool that we can post our rigs and admire everyones setup. And get new ideas! Great job everyone!!!

PS. Is everybody as addicted to this as I am???

0.o, -.- look here and waste a few days admiring them http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...etup-pics.html
^.^


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
0.o, -.- look here and waste a few days admiring them http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...etup-pics.html
^.^

yea, but you are not alowed to discuss things in that thread, it is not as fun.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

triggs, what are you doing to get that tubing color? that color would be beast for the project in my sig.


----------



## kidrem

Here is my current rig. I like to watercool for the quiet overclocking!








[/IMG]

I ordered OCN decals for the window. Can't wait to get them and put the finishing touch on The Cooling Tower! And take a better photo









Oops! forgot my gear:
Swiftech Apogee GT
Swiftech NB block
EK GPU 8800GTS full cover
dual Bonneville rads (in series)
Swiftech 655 pump
7/16" Masterclear tubing
custom sweet/sour sauce bottle res
custom nylon manifold
custom copper MOSFET block


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Spawn Inc. - Love the mounted rad case, excellent idea.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## triggs75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp* 
triggs75, I love blue, but that red is SICK!! Very nice job. Also eveyone else.
This is so cool that we can post our rigs and admire everyones setup. And get new ideas! Great job everyone!!!

PS. Is everybody as addicted to this as I am???

Thank you

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

triggs, what are you doing to get that tubing color? that color would be beast for the project in my sig.

The tubing is the primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD. No extra lighting on it, just some LED's coming out of the back fan. The tubing does have a really nice deep red to it. I would definitely recommend the tubing.

Chad


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
The tubing is the primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD. No extra lighting on it, just some LED's coming out of the back fan. The tubing does have a really nice deep red to it. I would definitely recommend the tubing.

thanks, i will defiantly have to look into that. It looks awesome.

Oh,and thanks Syrillian, I enjoy looking at what everyone has to show, so it is not too much of a pain to keep the thread updated.  (not so fun to copy and paste 10-15 new members at a time though)

i also enjoy the conversation in the thread, lots of good ideas and just a general good vibe i think.  keep it up everyone.


----------



## dpress01

Kidrem,
Where can i order a OCN decal?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpress01* 
Kidrem,
Where can i order a OCN decal?

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...ques-sale.html

there.


----------



## CDMAN

Well here is my setup, The motherboard gets swiched out depending on what I am benching for. CPU Loop is red, GPU Loop is Blue.

Parts used:
Feser X-Changer Quad
Feser Monsta Xchanger
Swiftech MCP355 Pump
Swiftech MCP655 Pump
Swiftech Apogee™ XT CPU waterblock
HeatKiller CPU waterblock
MCW60-R (2)
Reservoirs By Frozen-Q
EK-Multioption reservoir

Project X


----------



## kidrem

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...ques-sale.html

there. 

actually, I think this is the current applique link

http://www.overclock.net/view.php?pg=appliques

I ordered from the previous then found the latter... I hope I still get my decals


----------



## dpress01

Thanks for the link Kidrem.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

oh, nice, that looks way easier than the old way.  thanks.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Kidrem, love your side window!


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
lol. np. I may go compression fitting over christmas break. in which case I would get this

Those are nice. I just don't care for compression fittings, the only rigs that used to use those were ThermalTake, Koolance and 1/4" German WC'ing gear, they finally went to 3/8" tubing a year or so ago. I guess they are kind of stigmatized for me, but thats just me, if you like them I'd grab them..









Really I quit building for looks quite a while ago anyway, I just clamp them, zip them and and keep on clocking..







..I still cut into my gear to much to try and keep it tidy. That and I think I may have turned into a duct tape zip-tie snob, if it ain't got them it just ain't coool...







...









Just kidding I still love seeing nice rigs, I'm really liking this chance to see all the nice rigs you guys are putting together...







...









Thanks for putting it together Kevin, show him some love guys! Your keeping this thread up great, if you want to add "Official" to the title feel free to do so.


----------



## kidrem

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Kidrem, love your side window!

Thx, it was quite a process to form the 'bubble' :swearing:. And it still isn't 'perfect', but good enough for now.


----------



## kidrem

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

Thx Kevin! Good job on the thread!

+1


----------



## kevingreenbmx

thanks.  btw, what chip is that in your avatar? it is a gpu of some sort right?


----------



## Cukies

Im going to update soon.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cukies* 
Im going to update soon.


















looks good, but you should wipe the dust off of that tubing sir


----------



## oblivion.sky




----------



## GeforceGTS

^^ awesome, I wish I had the time, patience, money and skill to do something like that to my TJ07


----------



## ridn3y

classy rig oblivion! i like it!


----------



## kidrem

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
thanks.  btw, what chip is that in your avatar? it is a gpu of some sort right?

Yeah, thats my old 7900gs, G71 core I believe? I should get a nifty new avatar... maybe one of my side window with a shiny new OCN applique









Oblivion, that is a sharp build, wow! Whats behind the mesh in front? Another rad? Really nice.


----------



## oblivion.sky

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ridn3y* 
classy rig oblivion! i like it!

thank you sir...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidrem* 
Yeah, thats my old 7900gs, G71 core I believe? I should get a nifty new avatar... maybe one of my side window with a shiny new OCN applique









Oblivion, that is a sharp build, wow! Whats behind the mesh in front? Another rad? Really nice.

thanks! yes, another 240 rad behind the mesh cage.


----------



## ChickenInferno

All of the fan cable extensions as well as the new headers came in today.

Final Pictures:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

oh oblivion, take your beautiful scarlet elsewhere! You're making me drool all over my desk -.-

And chicken, how's your rig for portability eh?


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
And chicken, how's your rig for portability eh?









It requires one of my roommates and myself just to put it on its side just to put the back panel on....I don't think it will be moving for at least a year (Not for Lan Parties


----------



## dpress01

Thanks kevingreenbmx! Great post, I'm getting a lot of ideas from all the great setups


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky* 









ok, sorry, but i need to go change my pants before i can update the list...

that is quite possibly the sexiest thing i have ever seen...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

mmk, better now.

updated. 

Oblivion, I want to see that thing up and running. post more when the loops are filled.


----------



## HAFenvy

Just a quick note - I updated the photo in my original post with a new higher resolution shot with the new spot cooling fan and UV Green coolant. Original post in this thread is linked from the front page or direct single post like here --> Post 116







My build log also got a photo refresh


----------



## kevingreenbmx

very nice.  i like it.


----------



## hy897t

Hey thought I would add mine. Almost got it how I want it and I have watching this post since before I got my kit and I did get a few ideas from it. Thanks for everyone posting your pics









EDIT: Sorry about the pics using a cell phone, like most of us we spend thousands on computer parts, but god forbid would we spend money on a camera


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
Components;
Â»HAF 922
Â»CPU: Intel Core i7 940 OC'd to 3.69
Â»Motherboard: Evga X58
Â»EVGA GeForce GTX 295
Â»CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3x2GB)

Water cool parts;
Â»RAD - XSPC RS360 & XSPC RS120
Â»CPU Block - Alphacool H14 Yellowstone BRB
Â»Koolance Northbridge/Southbridge Water Block
Â»Black Feeser Mosfet Block
Â»EK-Multioption RES 150
Â»Swiftech MCP655™ Series 12 VDC Water Pump
Â»Koolance-D5 X-TOP



















More pics in my build log Here

I have some lighting, LED's coming this week to lighten it up a little. I am also going to convert my side panel into a side window. The window will be similar to HAFEnvy's window mod, but might put a fan through it. Just not sure yet.

Chad

hey triggs, in the first picture it looks like the tubing is not clear, but in the second picture it looks like it's clear. Is it UV reactive?


----------



## frankzotynia10

very nice rigs here. i have a huge pile of WC parts sitting next to me begging to be installed tomorrow. i'll try and have pictures up if i get done.


----------



## triggs75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
hey triggs, in the first picture it looks like the tubing is not clear, but in the second picture it looks like it's clear. Is it UV reactive?

Yes it is. The tubing is the primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD. It looks more like the second pic in person.

Chad


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
Yes it is. The tubing is the primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD.

Chad

awesome! thanks man. how does it look? cause I'm thinking about selling my tygon and getting some of that since I want to go with the red inverse t-virus reservoir


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HAFenvy* 
Just a quick note - I updated the photo in my original post with a new higher resolution shot with the new spot cooling fan and UV Green coolant. Original post in this thread is linked from the front page or direct single post like here --> Post 116







My build log also got a photo refresh









Yay, another nice black and green setup







They're a great colour combination eh? The HAF looks really spacious too! Almost wishing I'd got that instead of the CM 690 :S (don't tell the guys in the CM 690 club lol)


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Yay, another nice black and green setup







They're a great colour combination eh? The HAF looks really spacious too! Almost wishing I'd got that instead of the CM 690 :S (don't tell the guys in the CM 690 club lol)


Thanks! Yeah I'm tired of blue LEDs and blue this blue that. The case looks spacious and it is definitely one of the bigger "mid" sized cases I've ever seen. Of course ditching the bottom drive cage opened up a ton of space - I have rafters for the 5.25in bays for my drives - if I need more storage, I'll dump files out onto my NAS


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HAFenvy* 
Thanks! Yeah I'm tired of blue LEDs and blue this blue that. The case looks spacious and it is definitely one of the bigger "mid" sized cases I've ever seen. Of course ditching the bottom drive cage opened up a ton of space - I have rafters for the 5.25in bays for my drives - if I need more storage, I'll dump files out onto my NAS









I agree! I am tired of blue. Partially why I went with the nVidia version of the CM 690 case (it has green highlights). Got a 14cm fan the other day that I'm hoping to use instead of the louder one in another psu that I stopped using. It's a quiet fan but the only catch was that it has blue LED's. Had the choice of having no LED's or green ones. Guess what I chose







May not get around to doing it but if I can it will look neat. I'll have a green glow on my desk beneath the case haha.

I've considered removing the HDD cage from my machine too. If I ever get a dual rad I'll probably remove the cage and have the rad on the bottom as there's plenty of room. Only problem is that I use the 5.2" bays for the UV and neon power boxes as well as an 80mm fan to push cold air over my gfx card. Don't have a lot of space in there but I'm sure I could make it work if I needed to.


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
Components;
Â»HAF 922
Â»CPU: Intel Core i7 940 OC'd to 3.69
Â»Motherboard: Evga X58
Â»EVGA GeForce GTX 295
Â»CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3x2GB)

Water cool parts;
Â»RAD - XSPC RS360 & XSPC RS120
Â»CPU Block - Alphacool H14 Yellowstone BRB
Â»Koolance Northbridge/Southbridge Water Block
Â»Black Feeser Mosfet Block
Â»EK-Multioption RES 150
Â»Swiftech MCP655â„¢ Series 12 VDC Water Pump
Â»Koolance-D5 X-TOP



















More pics in my build log Here

I have some lighting, LED's coming this week to lighten it up a little. I am also going to convert my side panel into a side window. The window will be similar to HAFEnvy's window mod, but might put a fan through it. Just not sure yet.

Chad


very nice set up. plus 1


----------



## Eastrider

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I agree! I am tired of blue. Partially why I went with the nVidia version of the CM 690 case (it has green highlights). Got a 14cm fan the other day that I'm hoping to use instead of the louder one in another psu that I stopped using. It's a quiet fan but the only catch was that it has blue LED's. Had the choice of having no LED's or green ones. Guess what I chose







May not get around to doing it but if I can it will look neat. I'll have a green glow on my desk beneath the case haha.

I've considered removing the HDD cage from my machine too. If I ever get a dual rad I'll probably remove the cage and have the rad on the bottom as there's plenty of room. Only problem is that I use the 5.2" bays for the UV and neon power boxes as well as an 80mm fan to push cold air over my gfx card. Don't have a lot of space in there but I'm sure I could make it work if I needed to.

We're three!

I have a Guardian 921 modded, but I had no choice since the LCD panel is always blue... and AFAIK not possible to remplace it.

A black/red or a black/yellow case would be awesome.


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS* 

EDIT: Sorry about the pics using a cell phone, like most of us we spend thousands on computer parts, but god forbid would we spend money on a camera










It took me building my watercooling system to buy a camera! GE 10.1MP camera at Meijer for $89+SD Card.


----------



## br4d

for another pics click here.


----------



## hy897t

Do I have just really thick tubing??? It seems people aren't really using 1/2 ID


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS* 
Do I have just really thick tubing??? It seems people aren't really using 1/2 ID

ive got 1/2 ID, but most people use smaller i guess..


----------



## ColSanderz

Most people use 7/16" ID I think (I do atleast), mainly because it is easier to get a tighter fit on the barbs and so prevent leaking.


----------



## junkyard00000

br4d, how did you straighten that length of tube?


----------



## almighty15

Mine, Sorry for rubbish pictures as I have a rubbish camera. Also it's not that saturated with blue in real life









Laing Ultra DDC with XSPC reservoir top
Thermochill PA 120.3
XSPC CPU block
N/B Block that came with the motherboard
3/8 ID Barbs


----------



## triggs75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
awesome! thanks man. how does it look? cause I'm thinking about selling my tygon and getting some of that since I want to go with the red inverse t-virus reservoir

I have a CCFl, so I will see if the pic will come out. I do not have the best digital camara.

Chad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CatfishSoup* 
very nice set up. plus 1

Thank you.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
I have a CCFl, so I will see if the pic will come out. I do not have the best digital camara.

Chad

alrighty. I'm probably gonna have two sets of ccfl's in my case so I can turn them on separately. two uv cathodes and two red cathodes.

Does anyone have pictures of the feser uv reactive tube in a rig? I just wanna see what the two look like in comparison


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xandax* 
Glad a photo of mine could be used for the banner 8)...

Here's the equipment:
Heatkiller 775 Rev 3.0
EK-NB 780i Northbridge Water Block
EK-SB VGA 790i Southbridge Water Block
Swiftech MCP655
XSPC RX480
Feser F1 Fluid
4x Yate Loon 120mmx25mm @ 1200rpms
Scythe KazeMaster Fan Controller
2x Swiftech RadBoxes (Rev 1 and Rev 2)
15" of Tygon 1/2"ID 5/8"OD Tube
12x Bitspower Compression Fittings 1/2ID 5/8OD
2x Bitspower T Blocks
2x Bitspower Filler Ports
Koolance Anti-kink springs
PT Nuke


































Where did you get this water cooling set like this? I wanna build something like this. No leaks?


----------



## pcnuttie

I'm very skeptic with water cooling cuz i'm running air with my Antec 900 tower and i have great cable management and temps are awesome, I have overclocked it and kept it at 3ghz cuz i'm too concerned for unstable temps if i decide to go higher and i know i have potentional with my E2180 cpu since i have a 680 watt psu i could push it further..


----------



## oblivion.sky

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
mmk, better now.

updated. 

Oblivion, I want to see that thing up and running. post more when the loops are filled. 









thank you sir, Yep i will post more pics once she's ready to go.


----------



## snow cakes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CDMAN* 
Well here is my setup, The motherboard gets swiched out depending on what I am benching for. CPU Loop is red, GPU Loop is Blue.

Parts used:
Feser X-Changer Quad
Feser Monsta Xchanger
Swiftech MCP355 Pump
Swiftech MCP655 Pump
Swiftech Apogeeâ„¢ XT CPU waterblock
HeatKiller CPU waterblock
MCW60-R (2)
Reservoirs By Frozen-Q
EK-Multioption reservoir

Project X









Project X with the Rampage II









Project X using the Classified









Project X at night










Garden hoses


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *snow cakes* 
Garden hoses









No, that's just regular tubing with cable sleeving.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Lol... had to do a conversion to figure out what I've got. 12.5mm is what it says on my tubing. It's just standard hosing from the local hardware store. 12.5mm makes 1/2 an inch.







But when I upgrade I'd like to have thinner tubing just for the sake of tidiness.


----------



## cooper_inc1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *almighty15* 
Mine, Sorry for rubbish pictures as I have a rubbish camera. Also it's not that saturated with blue in real life









Laing Ultra DDC with XSPC reservoir top
Thermochill PA 120.3
XSPC CPU block
N/B Block that came with the motherboard
3/8 ID Barbs










Super clean man, nice wire management and setup. Good job


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated. 

btw, you should all check out my Worklog in my sig. I will be putting a dual loop setup in that. I should get the first loop around december and the second whenever there are good full cover blocks for whatever DX11 cards end up being best.  (shameless plug, but hey, i just updated it too)


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cooper_inc1* 
Super clean man, nice wire management and setup. Good job

The cables are a mess due to me taking stuff out but thank you kindly for the comment









Might sort them out today thinking about it


----------



## CDMAN

I bought a new camera today and was able take some better pics of my setup. I deleted the old pic's and added some new ones on page 27.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

looks good.


----------



## hy897t

Ok just got some updated pics plus also with the side panel on hope you like









EDIT: I know one of the panels is off. I am trying to make a custom switch panel


----------



## HAFenvy

It's an 8-beer mod!


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HAFenvy* 
It's an 8-beer mod!









yea I was drinking when taking the pics, yea and it was 15! lol


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS* 
yea I was drinking when taking the pics lol

I was drinking while puttting mine together!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Amraam

This thread is very impressive.

Do all cases have to be modded to hold the rads? Are there any cases out there designed for water cooling systems? I would love to have a go at it, but CBA with the fuss of hacking away at a case, or having an external rad etc...


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Amraam*


This thread is very impressive.

Do all cases have to be modded to hold the rads? Are there any cases out there designed for water cooling systems? I would love to have a go at it, but CBA with the fuss of hacking away at a case, or having an external rad etc...


Almost all cases have to be modified a little bit. For my watercooling system, I had to screw down my pump onto my harddrive bay and I cut a small hole in the back to allow the fan cables to go into the back of the case.

For internal radiators, you would have to drill holes for screws to hold the radiator in place as well as ussually cutting out holes for the fans to suck air through.


----------



## GeforceGTS

^^ TJ07 + Velcro pads no moddding required


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Amraam*


This thread is very impressive.

Do all cases have to be modded to hold the rads? Are there any cases out there designed for water cooling systems? I would love to have a go at it, but CBA with the fuss of hacking away at a case, or having an external rad etc...


Cooler Master Cosmos S doesn't require any modding. Just use velcro to hold the pump in place and the radiator will screw into the top of the case just fine.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

The CM690 doesn't need any modifying to fit a standard 120 radiator. Just screw it into the bottom of the case and you're all set to go.


----------



## Amraam

Thanks for the info!

Shame the Cooler Master Cosmos S is hideous!









I really like the new Corsair 800D, but Â£210?! I don't even need a new case, I just like looking (and wishing!)


----------



## PCCstudent

Her's mine
Koolance AC 350 CPU Block
MCP655 Pump
Res. from CyberDruid
SwifTech stackable radiator 3x120mm
3x120x38 fans on bottom of rad and 3x120x25 on top
Kept all but 1 original Antec 1200 fans
Modded case for bottom air intake (up on wheels)
Moved P/S (Corsair 1000W outside) bought all modded cables from Performance PC's
955BE typicaly at 3.8 for Crysis
XFX GeForce 275 on air. It seems XFX GPU's are not so popular but this thing amazes me for a single GPU in Crysis
My pump looks a little awkward but I leave some extra hose so I can pull res. back and fill it (holds almost 3qts). I have never seen the CPU over 46c (typical is 43c) first build.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Amraam* 
This thread is very impressive.

Do all cases have to be modded to hold the rads? Are there any cases out there designed for water cooling systems? I would love to have a go at it, but CBA with the fuss of hacking away at a case, or having an external rad etc...

ATCS 840.









Can fit a large 3x120 up top, and a large 2x120 behind the HDD cage. All internal and with 0 modding, at all.


----------



## el gappo

my bong







15C load temps


----------



## kevingreenbmx

that is pretty impressive.  updated. (woot! 80 members)


----------



## tom.slick

here is my entry
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7433081


----------



## kevingreenbmx

post pics and a list of parts here and i will add you.


----------



## tom.slick

it's finished for now.
ATCS 840 with dual internal loops
I7 920+GTX285

CPU loop
XSPC RX360
Heatkill rev 3 lt
Danger Den cpx-pro pump
yates loon medium speed fans
D-Tek 5.25 bay reservoir

GPU loop
XSPC RX240
Bitspower VG-NGTX285B GPU Block
OCZ Hydro Pulse Water Pump 800
yates loon medium speed fans
D-Tek 5.25 bay reservoir


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Thanks, your in the list. 

feel free to rock the sig tag.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

haha, this is the first day since i made this thread it has gone 24 hours without a post.  i thought i would never stop updating.


----------



## Vermillion

Yeah, a majority of the WC systems on OCN are probably up already. Dont worry ill put my sexy pron up in about a week when all my stuff comes in.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

looking foward to it.


----------



## gsk3rd

My turn:

• Swiftech Apogee GTZ
• Laing DDC-3.2/MCP355 12V DC Pump w/Acetal XSPC Top
• Swiftech MCR320-QP Triple 120mm Radiator (w/fittings)
• 6 Ultra Kazes in push pull
• 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer Tubing
• Danger Den double din Res.


----------



## cooper_inc1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gsk3rd* 
My turn:










Outstanding, nice job. Another nicely done deep blue build


----------



## CL3P20

...







..from the OP:

Quote:

The rules are not strict, ANY form of liquid cooling is good.
....

























http://www.overclock.net/dry-ice-liq...y-testing.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

CL3P20 hey, do me a favor and edit in a link to your thread in that post.  you are def in though.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 21276

Count me in! I only have pictures of my sig rig (before the 9800GX2) uploaded from my phone.

Pics are pretty blurry. Hopefully I can find a decent camera and take some more recent pics with uv's n dye's


----------



## USFORCES

Here's my new case


----------



## kevingreenbmx

That is really cool.  also, i like the details in the concept. (OCN FTW)

updated.

also, from now on if anyone posts a second post can you note that for me? it is hard to remember who has already posted. 

keep up the awesome builds guys!


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Flatliner* 
Count me in! I only have pictures of my sig rig (before the 9800GX2) uploaded from my phone.

Pics are pretty blurry. Hopefully I can find a decent camera and take some more recent pics with uv's n dye's


















haha wow... thats almost the same setup i use to have, before i went water.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CL3P20* 
...







..from the OP: ....

























http://www.overclock.net/dry-ice-liq...y-testing.html

MASSIVE tubes are MASSIVE







what are you doing that you need to insulate the tubes?


----------



## hitman1985

in


----------



## wheth4400

Count me in CPU only loop:
Swiftech Apogee GTZ
Danger Den Black ice stealth GTX240 X flow
MCP 655 vario
EK 250 ML res


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 









is that the xt? if so, what are your temps like?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
MASSIVE tubes are MASSIVE







what are you doing that you need to insulate the tubes?

read the thread.  (trust me, it is worth it. i am sub'd)


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
is that the xt? if so, what are your temps like?

yes its an xt, but i dont have the build complete yet









front intake fans taken out of the calculation and fans on 3/4 speed i get 27-30C idle and 48 C max on stock


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
yes its an xt, but i dont have the build complete yet









front intake fans taken out of the calculation and fans on 3/4 speed i get 27-30C idle and 48 C max on stock









sweet man. I'm excited to get mine. I'm working on my first loop so I get to start off with the best waterblock as of right now, right when it comes out


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
sweet man. I'm excited to get mine. I'm working on my first loop so I get to start off with the best waterblock as of right now, right when it comes out









you wont regret it









better hurry tho, they are sold out @ jab tech, thanks to me









i will be doing my overclocking cpu wise this weekend if plans work ok


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
yes its an xt, but i dont have the build complete yet










front intake fans taken out of the calculation and fans on 3/4 speed i get 27-30C idle and 48 C max on stock









Thats ~3-4C lower than my idle at stock speeds




























so maybe the reviews and Swiftech site are right, the XT beats the HK by 2-3C and the APogee GTZ is about 1-2C higher than the HK


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Thats ~3-4C lower than my idle at stock speeds




























so maybe the reviews and Swiftech site are right, the XT beats the HK by 2-3C and the APogee GTZ is about 1-2C higher than the HK

yeah. his load temps are about the same as my load temps on air for my c2d


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
in









How come you didnt do the NB?


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
How come you didnt do the NB?

was never a friend of much overclocks besides the cpu, on amd i never needed upgraded cooling on the nb for that









new to intel as you see


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
How come you didnt do the NB?

**In b4 "NB water cooling is useless"**

I did mine for the hell of it and I got the block for 15$ so why not


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
How come you didnt do the NB?

most people do not because there is no need or benefit in most situations. it just adds restriction and lowers your flow.

really the only time you should is if you have an abnormally hot chip or have really bad airflow. (or if you want no fans)

edit: wow, three of us at once...

hey, 88, did you check out the thread that cl3p20 posted?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Nope I did not, nor have ever seen it. I have some CRAP airflow in my case, AND my NB usually hit 60C while gaming, ~70C in stress tests, so I kind of have a reason to WC it, and like I said, for 15$ why not... or 20$ <_< I forget, I think I got it for 20$ and it didn't add any noticeable heat, not enough for me to say "hmm my temps are higher suddenly"

Ok I just saw it, now I get it


----------



## hitman1985

i did a mistake yesterday night









my max temps in prime are not 58C...


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Thats only 6 minutes of Prime tho, try 2 hrs. My temps start off as those and after 2-3 hrs they top out medium high 50s


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Thats only 6 minutes of Prime tho, try 2 hrs. My temps start off as those and after 2-3 hrs they top out medium high 50s

*Or*..... You could try 10 minutes of CoreDamage.

P95/OCCT for CPU stabiliy
IBT/CoreDamage for a temp check


----------



## hitman1985

ill do that as soon as i get my front fans running


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Intel Burn Test or Linx





















25 Runs on very High or 2-4Gb usage on Linx, it will run hotter than Prime by a few degrees.


----------



## C.J.B.




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

looks nice cjb.


----------



## CL3P20

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
i did a mistake yesterday night









my max temps in prime are not 58C...



Lower NB temps used to net lower latency and higher FSB...not sure what exactly lower NB temps will do for an i5/7 rig though







...the MCH is in the CPU..soo...







Either way...mid-high 50c is going to limit you somewhere









I know, NB cooling on my P45 is a must, when pushing for either very low latency [sub 50ns] or high FSB [>533 FSB]. Just dropping NB temps 20c allows me to run PL12 instead of PL14...and allows for another 40mhz or so of FSB clock.


----------



## ginnz

heres mine... i thought i posted it in here, but cant find it.... its an e6600 @ 3.6. I have a q6600 and HK 3.0 775 block coming next week ;-) i repalced my case/pump/tubing a couple weeks ago..... enjoy.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.  if we can get 13 more we will have 100 members, everyone make sure to bug those who have not joined.


----------



## cooper_inc1

ill be joining monday, my tubing and the rest of my barbs will arrive that day xD. Get ready for the HAF!


----------



## MeeksMan13

the $500 i won a few months ago came in so I'll be finishing up in the next couple weeks


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CL3P20* 
I know, NB cooling on my P45 is a must, when pushing for either very low latency [sub 50ns] or high FSB [>533 FSB]. Just dropping NB temps 20c allows me to run PL12 instead of PL14...and allows for another 40mhz or so of FSB clock.









Try one of these Cl..Swifty NB HSF ..I've been running one on NB for years and they keep i well cooled. The pic's don't do it justice, it's a big heavy hunk of copper. Plus they move from board to board real easily. The Swifty site almost always has them in stock if you can't find one anywhere else.


----------



## hitman1985

well im @ 4ghz now, HT on, temps not goin over 72 on prime so far. 30 minutes in, fans running on full speed now







still quiet enough.

but i think i need to drop my vcore as im a bit higher just to ensure it was stable for first oc.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=787971


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
well im @ 4ghz now, HT on, temps not goin over 72 on prime so far. 30 minutes in, fans running on full speed now







still quiet enough.

but i think i need to drop my vcore as im a bit higher just to ensure it was stable for first oc.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=787971

72 degrees... I take it that's celcius? And you're only half an hour in? Those are some pretty toasty temps (if celcius!)... What size rad do you have? A 920 is next on the list for me but I'm not too keen on running that hot under load.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
72 degrees... I take it that's celcius? And you're only half an hour in? Those are some pretty toasty temps (if celcius!)... What size rad do you have? A 920 is next on the list for me but I'm not too keen on running that hot under load.

72 is fine for an I7.

It does seem a little high for his setup, but not unreasonable. may just be a hot chip or bad TIM seat.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
72 is fine for an I7.

It does seem a little high for his setup, but not unreasonable. may just be a hot chip or bad TIM seat.

i was at 1.4 core voltage









im goin to drop it now and see what i get down too


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
i was at 1.4 core voltage









im goin to drop it now and see what i get down too

you should just keep pushing your OC. 

sounds like you have a bit of room as far as temps.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
you should just keep pushing your OC. 

sounds like you have a bit of room as far as temps.

i'm going to leave it @ 4.0 and ~1.29v (she doesn't want to be prime stable below that







) for tonight, i may do some more tweaking, i guess cpu multi is up next, as the cpu clock will up my ram more and i d much rather have the multi adjusted i guess









but as said im new to i7 and intel oc'ing in general, so ill leave her rumbling for the week, and may reseat next weekend if need be.

my room temp is a bit warm, in january when i move to alaska im thinking about mounting my rad outside the window sealing







that ll make it easier to oc again i hope

thanks for the feedback

prime95 will run overnight today, and i have the max temp so far down by 8 C again, 65 C max


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
i'm going to leave it @ 4.0 and ~1.29v (she doesn't want to be prime stable below that







) for tonight, i may do some more tweaking, i guess cpu multi is up next, as the cpu clock will up my ram more and i d much rather have the multi adjusted i guess









but as said im new to i7 and intel oc'ing in general, so ill leave her rumbling for the week, and may reseat next weekend if need be.

my room temp is a bit warm, in january when i move to alaska im thinking about mounting my rad outside the window sealing







that ll make it easier to oc again i hope

thanks for the feedback

prime95 will run overnight today, and i have the max temp so far down by 8 C again, 65 C max









65 sounds good lol. There's only a 5 degree difference between that and 70 but 70 sounds so much closer to 100







I look forward to getting my 920!


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
65 sounds good lol. There's only a 5 degree difference between that and 70 but 70 sounds so much closer to 100







I look forward to getting my 920!

you wont be disappointed









i thought my 940be @ 3.8 was quick, but i7 920 @ 4ghz is


----------



## MlbrottarN

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.  if we can get 13 more we will have 100 members, everyone make sure to bug those who have not joined. 

I'm in in a week or so when i got money for a loop ^^


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
was never a friend of much overclocks besides the cpu, on amd i never needed upgraded cooling on the nb for that









new to intel as you see


Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
most people do not because there is no need or benefit in most situations. it just adds restriction and lowers your flow.

really the only time you should is if you have an abnormally hot chip or have really bad airflow. (or if you want no fans)

edit: wow, three of us at once...

hey, 88, did you check out the thread that cl3p20 posted?

Well the reason I asked was because he has the Bloodrage and it comes with the NB block.

Anyways I'm reallllly thinking about WC mine. Maybe around Christmas


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Well the reason I asked was because he has the Bloodrage and it comes with the NB block.

Anyways I'm reallllly thinking about WC mine. Maybe around Christmas









hmmm idk, my nb seems to be fine for my 4ghz clock so far, i may add that when i move to alaska in january


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
hmmm idk, my nb seems to be fine for my 4ghz clock so far, i may add that when i move to alaska in january









definitely gotta go for an outside rad box. Alaska is by far one of my favorite states


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
definitely gotta go for an outside rad box. Alaska is by far one of my favorite states

i hope i live there long enough to do something like that


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ginnz* 
heres mine... i thought i posted it in here, but cant find it.... its an e6600 @ 3.6. I have a q6600 and HK 3.0 775 block coming next week ;-) i repalced my case/pump/tubing a couple weeks ago..... enjoy.









thats A VERY NICE.. oops caps lock lol. that is a very nice system there. love that case, im a HAF owner as well







and love that multiscreening there. very nic and clean set up.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Case is being heavily modded, 2 new side panels cut, new top panel cut, as well as a shroud being fabbed up, in the meanwhile....

4.5Ghz @ 1.304vCore
Idle: 35-36C
Load 53-55C (HK needs some mods) Edit: After a slight mod and remount 51-52C

Before:









Brand new HX1000W modular PSU from Corsair in this pic
After:


----------



## cooper_inc1

My Rig:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

lookin good guys. 

only 11 more to 100. ;-)


----------



## 102014

Heres my build: specs in sig:

im not the worlds best photographer lol

i havnt got a window on this case yet, but a dremel and some perspex will fix that




































the dye is ment to be UV orange to match the ports on the motherboard, but it looks more like someone has pissed in my loop


----------



## 102014

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ginnz* 
heres mine... i thought i posted it in here, but cant find it.... its an e6600 @ 3.6. I have a q6600 and HK 3.0 775 block coming next week ;-) i repalced my case/pump/tubing a couple weeks ago..... enjoy.









i love your tripple monitor setup, i only have dual. because i cannot afford another screen.


----------



## 06si

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
i'm going to leave it @ 4.0 and ~1.29v (she doesn't want to be prime stable below that







) for tonight, i may do some more tweaking, i guess cpu multi is up next, as the cpu clock will up my ram more and i d much rather have the multi adjusted i guess









but as said im new to i7 and intel oc'ing in general, so ill leave her rumbling for the week, and may reseat next weekend if need be.

my room temp is a bit warm, in january when i move to alaska im thinking about mounting my rad outside the window sealing







that ll make it easier to oc again i hope

thanks for the feedback

prime95 will run overnight today, and i have the max temp so far down by 8 C again, 65 C max









Is your Apogee XT has a defect on the copper plate?


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *06si* 
Is your Apogee XT has a defect on the copper plate?

i highly doubt it, here's some pics:
(if you want high res pics, please let me know i have these in 1600x1200 as well)


----------



## 06si

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
i highly doubt it, here's some pics:
(if you want high res pics, please let me know i have these in 1600x1200 as well)



Oh no, not that side, the inside where the pins are. Unfortunately mine has the pin defect and called Swiftech if they can replace the copper plate


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *06si* 
Oh no, not that side, the inside where the pins are. Unfortunately mine has the pin defect and called Swiftech if they can replace the copper plate









i dont know, didnt take it apart before i mounted it







works good tho


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
i dont know, didnt take it apart before i mounted it







works good tho

I'd take it apart if I were you, been lots of complaining going around about defects.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins* 
I'd take it apart if I were you, been lots of complaining going around about defects.

too much work tbh, i ll take it apart in dezember when i move to alaska







swiftech has superb service, im sure they ll replace it in a heartbeat if it was to be messed up.

thanks for the hint


----------



## 06si

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
too much work tbh, i ll take it apart in dezember when i move to alaska







swiftech has superb service, im sure they ll replace it in a heartbeat if it was to be messed up.

thanks for the hint

Take pictures also, the RMA person would want to have proof


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *06si* 
Take pictures also, the RMA person would want to have proof

sure thing









i may get another cpu block for my wife's rig, if i decide watercooling will fit in a small acrylic box


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
sure thing









i may get another cpu block for my wife's rig, if i decide watercooling will fit in a small acrylic box









It can and will







http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...cooled-pc.html It's a 20x20x19cm acrylic, water-cooled pc. (Offhand I think those are the dimensions...)


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
It can and will







http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...cooled-pc.html It's a 20x20x19cm acrylic, water-cooled pc. (Offhand I think those are the dimensions...)

im more looking into a dual rad if i go water on her rig







itll only be a little am3 240 or something similar.

was looking at the sunbeam case for 79 @ newegg. sunbeam ufo


----------



## sdla4ever

upgraded my loop some! change my post to this one plz


----------



## azcrazy

SDLA i see what u were talking about now, nice radiator case?


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *azcrazy* 
SDLA i see what u were talking about now, nice radiator case?

ya i gotta get those wires done black or wrap them


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## detroitpc313

My Core i7 build *CHECK OUT MY YOUTUBE PAGE www.youtube.com/detroitpc313*


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
im more looking into a dual rad if i go water on her rig







itll only be a little am3 240 or something similar.

was looking at the sunbeam case for 79 @ newegg. sunbeam ufo

What would your wife be using it for? Unless it is for something graphics intensive eg rendering, a dual rad seems a bit excessive. I run an overclocked (from 1.8 to 2.8ghz) dual core Opteron on a single 120mm rad and never go about 52 degrees under load. Boyfriend has an E8400 at 4.5ghz on a single rad too and stays probably only 10 degrees higher than mine under load.

It's a saving on money but it's your choice really


----------



## AndrewH

I'll be joining the club on Monday! My gear should come in Saturday or so!


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
What would your wife be using it for? Unless it is for something graphics intensive eg rendering, a dual rad seems a bit excessive. I run an overclocked (from 1.8 to 2.8ghz) dual core Opteron on a single 120mm rad and never go about 52 degrees under load. Boyfriend has an E8400 at 4.5ghz on a single rad too and stays probably only 10 degrees higher than mine under load.

It's a saving on money but it's your choice really









idk i had good experience in the past with the mcr220qp, thats why i would get that same rad again, plus she definatly would not need watercooling, sometimes its about the idea of going the extra mile in points of looks, i dont like the looks of most air coolers, but i may get her a xiggy dark night, just to save some $$ and put a 5770 in there. long ways till i start on her system from now


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *detroitpc313* 









what's that taking up the two drive bays


----------



## tom.slick

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
what's that taking up the two drive bays

he has one of these
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811999188
looks nice


----------



## detroitpc313

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
what's that taking up the two drive bays

Lcd monitor for fans temp


----------



## MeeksMan13

ah cool. it looks good


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Z Overlord

I win this thread:










Res: Swiftech Micro res V2
Pump: MCP655 B
CPU and GPU: Sig
Tubing: Primochill 1/2 ID 3/4 OD Blue
rad: Swiftech MCR320


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Z Overlord* 
I win this thread

Haha, i don't know about winning the thread, but you are in. 

updated.


----------



## iceboi714

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Z Overlord* 
I win this thread:










Res: Swiftech Micro res V2
Pump: MCP655 B
CPU and GPU: Sig
Tubing: Primochill 1/2 ID 3/4 OD Blue
rad: Swiftech MCR320

interesting placement of the pump...debating where i shoudl put mine..


----------



## Tazi

Heres my Rig...
I7 [email protected] do
EVGA X58 mobo
EVGA GTX 285 Tri-Sli
12 gigs OCZ [email protected]
1200 watt PC Power and coolin psu
1 tb western digital hdd
Danger den custom liquid kit
Cooler master Cosmos full
blue ray and cd/dvd burner


----------



## Tazi

Heres my Rig...
I7 [email protected] do
EVGA X58 mobo
EVGA GTX 285 Tri-Sli
12 gigs OCZ [email protected]
1200 watt PC Power and coolin psu
1 tb western digital hdd
Danger den custom liquid kit
Cooler master Cosmos full
blue ray and cd/dvd burner


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Nice rig TÃ¡zÃ¯, i love the cosmos









btw, please use the edit button in stead of double posting


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Z Overlord* 
I win this thread:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/100_1852.jpg
Res: Swiftech Micro res V2
Pump: MCP655 B
CPU and GPU: Sig
Tubing: Primochill 1/2 ID 3/4 OD Blue
rad: Swiftech MCR320

And how exactly do you win? For a start you didn't even re-size your picture so it took longer than necessary to load







And you put blue with purple which is a rather... strange colour combination


----------



## Z Overlord

The tubing is supposed to be blue...guess it looks purple lol.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Z Overlord* 
The tubing is supposed to be blue...guess it looks purple lol.

Yeah in comparison to the blue of the mobo it looks pretty purple.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TÃ¡zÃ¯* 
Heres my Rig...
I7 [email protected] do
EVGA X58 mobo
EVGA GTX 285 Tri-Sli
12 gigs OCZ [email protected]
1200 watt PC Power and coolin psu
1 tb western digital hdd
Danger den custom liquid kit
Cooler master Cosmos full
blue ray and cd/dvd burner









Whoa, I think we have a 2nd place here


----------



## triggs75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Z Overlord* 
I win this thread:


Isn't that the new Corsair case, if so how is it so dusty in there already?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Z Overlord* 
Whoa, I think we have a 2nd place here









I don't understand what you are basing this off of. 

no one gets awards unless i say so, it is my club.









plus, check out #75 on the list.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
Isn't that the new Corsair case, if so how is it so dusty in there already?

Yep.

It even has a dust filter.

I live in a rural part of California. Meaning it is impossible not to have dust


----------



## jarble

well after luring and drooling over everyone's rigs I thought I would post myn up







its still a work in progress but its getting there

























custom inverse-t res tri ported for the stinger v8








































reinforced pvc tubing almost will not kink







(not good for light wight aka plastic components







)









parts
custom inverse-t res
custom stinger v8 (the only delrin top in the word







)
xspc 240 rad
eheim 1048 pump


----------



## cooper_inc1

You should shake that T-Virus res some, quite a bit of bubbles building up in it, and kill the nice effect of it. A great setup though.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cooper_inc1* 
You should shake that T-Virus res some, quite a bit of bubbles building up in it, and kill the nice effect of it. A great setup though.

Oh hell no, the bubbles make it look like there's a snake in there







That's an awesome effect that I wouldn't want to give up lol. Plus the air bubbles are better in there than in the pump or throughout the rest of the loop.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## JohnDProb

omg, im drooling, i wish i would get my next allowance, cuz the moment i do im blowing the last 4 months allowance all on water cooling


----------



## cooper_inc1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Oh hell no, the bubbles make it look like there's a snake in there







That's an awesome effect that I wouldn't want to give up lol. Plus the air bubbles are better in there than in the pump or throughout the rest of the loop.

heh, fair enough


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Tbh I really like the look of that res with all its bubbles. It would look good in a mod that I have in mind that has a green, black and silver snake theme. *dreams* Project Viper will probably never happen but I don't mind daydreaming about it hehe.


----------



## vinzend




----------



## 102014

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vinzend* 









very neat , like the cable/hose routing


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

that red and blue look pretty cool together. i am not normally a fan of the combination, but it works in your case.


----------



## CL3P20

..abstract shot..Zalman Rev1 block pictured with Dominators..


----------



## JohnDProb

pwnage shot, those dominators look deadly


----------



## vinzend

Quote:


Originally Posted by *markp1989* 
very neat , like the cable/hose routing


Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

that red and blue look pretty cool together. i am not normally a fan of the combination, but it works in your case. 

thanks a lot!








it took me a serious headache last night when the hose was off from the comp. fitting!!

i didn't plug it tight enough so when i was running it, kaboom the water went to everywhere : motherboard, video card, power supply, and it shut off by itself..

geez i was VERY scared that i had lost everything.. but after i blew dry it for a while, it's running until now..


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vinzend* 
thanks a lot!








it took me a serious headache last night when the hose was off from the comp. fitting!!

i didn't plug it tight enough so when i was running it, kaboom the water went to everywhere : motherboard, video card, power supply, and it shut off by itself..

geez i was VERY scared that i had lost everything.. but after i blew dry it for a while, it's running until now..










most of us have been there your siting there going oh my god that did not just happen.

glad your baby is ok


----------



## waqasr

Wow, cant believe i missd this one, heres a few pics of mine:

When i had my crappy techbench


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *waqasr* 
Wow, cant believe i missd this one, heres a few pics of mine:

When i had my crappy techbench























































what size tubing did you use to get sleeving over it?


----------



## triggs75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
what size tubing did you use to get sleeving over it?

Not sure which sleeving he used, but you can get tube sleeving here. This will go over any of the tube sizes. I have some and placed it over 5/8" OD and it had plenty more room in it.

Chad


----------



## vinzend

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
most of us have been there your siting there going oh my god that did not just happen.

glad your baby is ok









yea it wasn't okay before when i tried it at first time after the accident..
on and off by itself..









then i kept blowing it dry, voilaaa..


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
what size tubing did you use to get sleeving over it?

please dont quote a lot of pictures, there are a lot of guys with slow internet etc, and they dont like to load pics twice... thanx


----------



## waqasr

Quote:

Originally Posted by jarble View Post
what size tubing did you use to get sleeving over it?
I used 1/2" ID 3/4" od tubing, cant remember the size of the sleeving though, 19mm i think.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
Not sure which sleeving he used, but you can get tube sleeving here. This will go over any of the tube sizes. I have some and placed it over 5/8" OD and it had plenty more room in it.

Chad

thanks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vinzend* 
yea it wasn't okay before when i tried it at first time after the accident..
on and off by itself..









then i kept blowing it dry, voilaaa..



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
please dont quote a lot of pictures, there are a lot of guys with slow internet etc, and they dont like to load pics twice... thanx









I dont mean this in an offensive way but this is a picture gallery lots of pictures are to expected







. that being said I will try and refrain from doing that









Quote:


Originally Posted by *waqasr* 
I used 1/2" ID 3/4" od tubing, cant remember the size of the sleeving though, 19mm i think.

thanks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated. 

cl3p20, i was going to give you an award for least water cooling related water cooling pic, but you already had an award.


----------



## Vermillion

Here she is:

Enzotech Saphire
XSPC RX360
Swiftech 655
Swiftech MicroRes
1/2ID 3/4OD tubing
Yate-loon high speeds all around

Cable managment is still a little weak. My 40ft. of sleaving comes in tomorrow.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vermillion* 
Cable managment is still a little weak. My 40ft. of sleaving comes in tomorrow.









what size sleeve? if you got 1/8" sleeve to single sleeve then you will not have enough. I have used nearly 200ft in the worklog in my sig.

edit: updated.


----------



## Vermillion

Yeah I got 1/8. Im going to start with all my fans, front panel, ect. first. I picked up a 12" 24-pin Ext. to sleave and I have a 8pin Ext. from my case that im going to eventually sleave. Im probably not going to actually cut into my power supply.


----------



## cooper_inc1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vermillion* 










Really clean man, one of the few blue builds I am actually really really impressed with, mainly caused you used all matching fans which really helps xD


----------



## nub

Do bong coolers count? Or are we too scruffy looking for this club?


----------



## cooper_inc1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nub* 








Do bong coolers count? Or are we too scruffy looking for this club?









Just crop the bongs out of the picture and we'll accept you guys


----------



## vinzend

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cooper_inc1* 
Just crop the bongs out of the picture and we'll accept you guys


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nub* 








Do bong coolers count? Or are we too scruffy looking for this club?









lol well im in and i have the biggest scruffiest bong on ocn


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vermillion* 
Yeah I got 1/8. Im going to start with all my fans, front panel, ect. first. I picked up a 12" 24-pin Ext. to sleave and I have a 8pin Ext. from my case that im going to eventually sleave. Im probably not going to actually cut into my power supply.

oh, ok. just keep in mind though that a 12"24pin and a 12" 8pin will still use 32 feet of sleeve by themselves. that leaves you 8 feet to do everything else you want. ;-)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nub* 








Do bong coolers count? Or are we too scruffy looking for this club?









the rules state ANY form of liquid cooling. If cl3p20's monstrosity of a dice chiller counts then of course bongs count.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Add me









2x WC rigs:
"Older pics"

*Rig 1: (in my sig)*
InWin Maelstrom Full ATX case
-1x TT 400lph pump
-1x Husky pond pump 300Gph
-2x TT 120 motorsport rads
-1x Socom 280 rad
-1x TT 400ml Res.
-TT CPU block
-2x TT brazed GPU blocks (in RMA limbo)
-3/8" ID-1/2"OD Poly-clear tubing
-Custom TEC water chiller (135w x2 @ 18A) (Why u see two PSUs







)
-50% Distilled Water/2%Xocide blue dye/8%Alcohol/ 40% Glycol

*UNDER NEW CONSTRUCTION*
Some testing pics:

















*Rig 2:*
Antec 900 Mid ATX case
2x Thermaltake 735i Bigwater kits
all Thermaltake copper/acrylic blocks
1x TT 400ml res
1x TT 120 motorsports rads
1x Socom 260 aluma-rad
3/8"ID/1/2"OD TT tube (UV green)
-TT UV green fluid


----------



## vinzend

it hurts my eyes..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3* 


























oh man... cable management?







please?

you should post those in the rate my cables thread...

anyway, updated ;-)


----------



## the_xpert

pics in build log, specs in sig


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jcichetti* 
pics in build log, specs in sig

sorry, not adding anyone unless they post the pics here.  that takes all the fun away if you have to follow a bunch of links. ;-)


----------



## Eastrider

Count me in!









My loop is not finished yet, so I won't be posting pics now. But I will as soon as I end up, promise


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eastrider* 
Count me in!









My loop is not finished yet, so I won't be posting pics now. But I will as soon as I end up, promise









I look forward to seeing your setup.  not gonna add ya until the pics are up though, sorry.


----------



## jaded25

Here's my little setup

Rockin rig (in my sig):
XSPC RX360 rad
Swiftech MCR-220 rad
Heatkiller Rev 3.0 block
Koolance NX295 block
MCP 355 pump w/ XSPC top
Lang DDC 3.2 w/ XSPC Res top

Finally got my new pump and got everything setup. I'm thinking maybe later on I'll paint the inside of the case and do a couple of other mods.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated!

so, who is gonna be #100?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

is there a price?







nah, im #15 i guess, and i wont post an other rig...xD


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
is there a price?







nah, im #15 i guess, and i wont post an other rig...xD

haha, no price, but if you post another rig i will just put it next to your first post anyway.  (in fact, if you have more pics please do post them)


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

well, i have a lot of pics, but they are in my worklog. They are so big i wont post them, didnt resize them, and uploading again is a bad option with my internet speed...








i have only one watercooled rig, so i cant post a second one, i was just kidding









anyways, if you want me to, i could select some and post them here too...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
anyways, if you want me to, i could select some and post them here too...

that is up to you. 

if you have some that you think would be particularly helpful to people new to watercooling or any that could give others good ideas then please share.


----------



## almighty15

Rebuilt my rig due to me case power button deciding to die









Think it looks better then it did IMO....

*Laing Ultra DDC with XSPC reservoir top
Thermochill PA 120.3
XSPC CPU block
N/B Block that came with the motherboard
3/8 ID Barbs
*




























Sexy Xigmatek fans


















I modified the HDD cage the case ships with to allow me to reverse mount my HDD's and hide the cables


















3x Xigmatek's for my Thermochil radiator


















Pump now mounted higher up


















Gneral shot of the whole case, came out blurry though


----------



## kevingreenbmx

looks nice almighty. 

updated.

still looking for #100.


----------



## Vermillion

Nice!
Those fans look great in a blue setup for some reason.


----------



## FlamingCrayon

#100?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

congrats on being # 100.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

bump


----------



## hy897t

Well I just ordered my lapping kit from performance-pcs so as soon as it comes in and gets lapped I will post some new pics hopefully with some much better temps









Also free bump


----------



## MeeksMan13

I ordered my Apogee XT from Petra's saturday so it should be here soon. All I need now is the pump, res, and coolant. So it shouldn't bee too long at all


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
I ordered my Apogee XT from Petra's saturday so it should be here soon. All I need now is the pump, res, and coolant. So it shouldn't bee too long at all

i decided to sell my xt loop, its about the best performance for a sub 250 budget i had, but i m pcs'ing. you ll love that block







enjoy it


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
I ordered my Apogee XT from Petra's saturday so it should be here soon. All I need now is the pump, res, and coolant. So it shouldn't bee too long at all

Distilled water + anti-algecide
Just a tip to save $$ on the coolant


----------



## MrMason

add me please!

MCR320
D-Tek Fuzion V2
Laing D4


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

hey, quick question, is that how all crossfire bridges work with trifire? they do not have both ports used on all three cards like nvidia does?


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

hey, quick question, is that how all crossfire bridges work with trifire? they do not have both ports used on all three cards like nvidia does?

yes sir


----------



## MlbrottarN

I have a little question that i didn't think was worth making a new topic for, and that is this: If i decide to put a T-line between the CPU-block and the Pump inlet, does the Fillport need too be higher than the highest part of the loop? concidering air presure and stuff, or does it just do with placing it anywhere aslong as i seal the fillport? was concidering something like MrMason's build

Nice builds folks


----------



## Foooman

I've been meaning to post here for a while.










MCP355
Heatkiller 3.0 Cu
GTX360
Primochill 7/16" ID UV Red Tubing
3x Panaflo Medium


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

foo, that looks very clean.  +rep


----------



## kevingreenbmx

bump


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Foooman* 
I've been meaning to post here for a while.










MCP355
Heatkiller 3.0 Cu
GTX360
Primochill 7/16" ID UV Red Tubing
3x Panaflo Medium

Very very nice +Rep love the window mod


----------



## MeeksMan13

my apogee xt came in today. I emailed them about getting the 775 mounting hardware. If they don't send me the stuff, how else can I get the mounting hardware?


----------



## ChielScape

they'll send it. make sure to take it apart before use in any case, and post pics of the insides in the Swiftech QC thread.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Here's my setup.

Swiftech MCP655-B Pump
Swiftech GTZ Waterblock
Black Labs GTX 240 Radiator
EK-Multioption Reservoir


----------



## ChielScape

i love those glowing PSU cables.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## gbrilliantq

*Being built.*










*Old system same watercooling*










*Present day, just trying to get the cable management done. The G11 coolant stained the tubing and the res.







*

Dtek Fuzion V1 Lapped, Bowed, washer and nozle modded. Custom brass backplated.
Thermochill PA120.3 triple fan radiator
2x Thermochill PA 120.3 Shrouds
EK-Multioption RES 250 rev.2 - 1/2" Barbs
Swiftech MCP655â„¢ 12 VDC Pump: Barb: 1/2"
6 x Panaflo 120mm Ultra 115CFM fans
Distilled water, Pentosin G11 Blue and PT Nuke


----------



## ChielScape

is that the old 23.5mm or the new 15mm PA?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChielScape* 
i love those glowing PSU cables.

Thanks.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *gbrilliantq* 

*Being built.*

*Old system same watercooling*

*Present day, just trying to get the cable management done. The G11 coolant stained the tubing and the res.







*

Dtek Fuzion V1 Lapped, Bowed, washer and nozle modded. Custom brass backplated.
Thermochill PA120.3 triple fan radiator
2x Thermochill PA 120.3 Shrouds
EK-Multioption RES 250 rev.2 - 1/2" Barbs
Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump: Barb: 1/2"
6 x Panaflo 120mm Ultra 115CFM fans
Distilled water, Pentosin G11 Blue and PT Nuke

Lol. My tubing and res are stained as well.

Btw, you didn't get that little piece of plastic that goes on the inside of the res? It kinda looks like it's foaming at the top.


----------



## gbrilliantq

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChielScape* 
is that the old 32.5mm or the new 15mm PA?

I believe it's the old 32mm, It's over a year old. I hadn't heard of a newer form factor of the PA120.3.


----------



## the_milk_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gbrilliantq* 

*Present day, just trying to get the cable management done. The G11 coolant stained the tubing and the res.







*

yikes, i'm sorry for the stained tubing, it looks like you're cooling with smoke O_O


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I believe I have the old one too, I have about 1/4" of space between fans.


----------



## gbrilliantq

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL* 
Thanks.









Lol. My tubing and res are stained as well.

Btw, you didn't get that little piece of plastic that goes on the inside of the res? It kinda looks like it's foaming at the top.


O.O That foamy line Isn't a foaming line, its stained as well. The line was 2/3s from the top of the res, I didnt fill the res to the top. I always thought that was just from leaving the comp off and coolant faded that section of the res. I've since filled it to the top.


----------



## hurrp




----------



## mcoffey

My main build. I'll be switching out the main PC side for another MM build based on extended Horizon or something along those lines. Makes life much easier when the main cooling side is separate. Just create another main PC side and connect to the rad box.

Hardware:

CPU: Q9650 4.25, 1.37v, 9x472 FSB
GPU: SLI EVGA GTX 280 756/1566/1248
MEM: GSkill DDR-3 1600, CAS 8 timings, 1888 Mem Speed, 2:1 divider
MB: EVGA 790i Ultra
HD: Seagate 250's in Raid 0
PSU: Corsair HX 1000

Cooling:

CPU Loop 1: EK Supreme, Twin TC PA 120.3, Twin D-5's
GPU Loop 2: EVGA Hydro FC blocks, Twin TC PA 120.3, Twin D-5's
Chipset Loop 3: BP NB/SB combo blocks, BP mosfet blocks, Single TC PA 120.3, Single DDC-3.2 XSPC top.

Controls:

Main Case: CyrstalFontz 635 USB fan controller
Rad Box: Sunbeam Rheobus EXTREME - 6 Channel 30 Watt Fan Controller 5.25"
Fans Main Case: All Yate Loon D12SM-12 x 8. Average RPM 975
Fans Rad Box: All Zalman ZM-F3 x 12. Average RPM 1100

Misc:

All BP fittings, except custom copper high flow elbows for rad interconnection in Rad Box
All Tubing Feser 1/2-3/4 UV Blue
2 White CCFL's, 2 UV Blue CCFL's
Sunbeam 4 port Molex Power Port x 2

Case:

Mountain Mods : Pinnacle 24 for main case
Mountial Mods : Custom Monacle 24 for Rad Box

That's pretty much everything.




























Excuse the ragged power interconnects, they've been upgraded since these pics.










Separate AUX/Main power connects so I can fill and bleed without messing with the power to the main or disconnecting. Each pump can be turned off and on independently.










Shot of the top with fill ports.










Hope you enjoy. I'll create a build log when I upgrade the main side.

andyc


----------



## kevingreenbmx

...








...


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 







...








...










this...

what brand earplugs do you use?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 







...








...










This

and This

and This

and This


----------



## Afrodisiac

Oh my God, that is amazing.


----------



## mfb412

That is _too_ brutally overkill insane


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
That is _too_ brutally overkill insane

no such thing.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
That is _too_ brutally overkill insane

+1 lol. I cannot understand how people seem to like having 4 420mm radiators with a junk load of fans. You can only cool to room temperature at most unless you go for bong cooling as far as I'm aware with watercooling.


----------



## Eastrider

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
+1 lol. I cannot understand how people seem to like having 4 420mm radiators with a junk load of fans. You can only cool to room temperature at most unless you go for bong cooling as far as I'm aware with watercooling.

Yes...

A Quad radiator for northbridge, southbridge, and mosfets?

...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eastrider* 
Yes...

A Quad radiator for northbridge, southbridge, and mosfets?

...

Aye. Since when has a motherboard run so hot that it's taken a quad radiator to cool it?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Aye. Since when has a motherboard run so hot that it's taken a quad radiator to cool it?









hey, it matches the other two. 

and it is better than having them in the CPU loop. ;-)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey, it matches the other two. 

and it is better than having them in the CPU loop. ;-)

Yes and yes but does it really need to be cooled is the big question. Motherboards don't normally get all that hot as long as they've got some form of airflow.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Yes and yes but does it really need to be cooled is the big question. Motherboards don't normally get all that hot as long as they've got some form of airflow.

hey, if you are gonna go overboard, go overboard.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey, if you are gonna go overboard, go overboard. 

Mmmn. It's his money so he can do as he wants but I don't see any sense in paying for another quad rad, 8 fans, another tank, more waterblocks and more tubing if you can get away without it lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Mmmn. It's his money so he can do as he wants but I don't see any sense in paying for another quad rad, 8 fans, another tank, more waterblocks and more tubing if you can get away without it lol.









me either, but it is awesome anyway.


----------



## Foooman

Mcoffey, you get bonus points for spending more on cooling than computer parts. Please excuse me while I change my pants.


----------



## mcoffey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eastrider* 
Yes...

A Quad radiator for northbridge, southbridge, and mosfets?

...


Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Aye. Since when has a motherboard run so hot that it's taken a quad radiator to cool it?










Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Yes and yes but does it really need to be cooled is the big question. Motherboards don't normally get all that hot as long as they've got some form of airflow.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Mmmn. It's his money so he can do as he wants but I don't see any sense in paying for another quad rad, 8 fans, another tank, more waterblocks and more tubing if you can get away without it lol.









It's only a triple rad for the chip set/mosfets







And it does help a lot with stability considering the clocks and it crunches 100% Boinc 24/7. Nvidia's 790i aren't the coolest running chip sets to begin with. At least not based on my experience and what I do with um. Plus, once I decide to do another build, having the chip set/mosfet loop in place makes it really easy to convert the main case over to a nice single loop LC server build. Given that I wanted to do a triple loop build with the focal point being the triple EK res's inside the case, it was only natural that I cooled the chip sets with the third loop.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Foooman* 
Mcoffey, you get bonus points for spending more on cooling than computer parts. Please excuse me while I change my pants.

Thanks. It's over the top, but for my 7th LC build I wanted to do something different and everything does serve a purpose as far as my overall build and design goals. Plus the flexibility and expandability pays off in the long run. I had the time of my life planing and getting the build together, so everything worked out perfect in the end. I think the build is somewhat unique.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
me either, but it is awesome anyway.


Thanks for the comments everyone, and I look forward to sharing my next build with you guys.

andyc


----------



## Eastrider

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcoffey* 
It's only a triple rad for the chip set/mosfets









Oh, now it's much more adequate! [/irony]

Is cool anyways, but too over-kill ish. On the 790, the motherboard can stand almost anything, no matter the heat.


----------



## mcoffey

No such thing as overkill if done right, at least for me. And if you think that's overkill, wait to you see my next one









andyc


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcoffey*


My main build. I'll be switching out the main PC side for another MM build based on extended Horizon or something along those lines. Makes life much easier when the main cooling side is separate. Just create another main PC side and connect to the rad box.

Hardware:

CPU: Q9650 4.25, 1.37v, 9x472 FSB
GPU: SLI EVGA GTX 280 756/1566/1248
MEM: GSkill DDR-3 1600, CAS 8 timings, 1888 Mem Speed, 2:1 divider
MB: EVGA 790i Ultra
HD: Seagate 250's in Raid 0
PSU: Corsair HX 1000

Cooling:

CPU Loop 1: EK Supreme, Twin TC PA 120.3, Twin D-5's
GPU Loop 2: EVGA Hydro FC blocks, Twin TC PA 120.3, Twin D-5's
Chipset Loop 3: BP NB/SB combo blocks, BP mosfet blocks, Single TC PA 120.3, Single DDC-3.2 XSPC top.

Controls:

Main Case: CyrstalFontz 635 USB fan controller
Rad Box: Sunbeam Rheobus EXTREME - 6 Channel 30 Watt Fan Controller 5.25"
Fans Main Case: All Yate Loon D12SM-12 x 8. Average RPM 975 
Fans Rad Box: All Zalman ZM-F3 x 12. Average RPM 1100

Misc:

All BP fittings, except custom copper high flow elbows for rad interconnection in Rad Box
All Tubing Feser 1/2-3/4 UV Blue
2 White CCFL's, 2 UV Blue CCFL's
Sunbeam 4 port Molex Power Port x 2

Case:

Mountain Mods : Pinnacle 24 for main case
Mountial Mods : Custom Monacle 24 for Rad Box

That's pretty much everything.




























Excuse the ragged power interconnects, they've been upgraded since these pics.










Separate AUX/Main power connects so I can fill and bleed without messing with the power to the main or disconnecting. Each pump can be turned off and on independently.










Shot of the top with fill ports.










Hope you enjoy. I'll create a build log when I upgrade the main side.

andyc



bloody hell thats amazing.

plus 1! very nice set up. i am impressed


----------



## mcoffey

Thanks very much. I have a lot of fun with it.

andyc


----------



## shetu

cool rig...


----------



## jaded25

Whoa that was one crazy setup mcoffey. How loud is the system with all those fans?


----------



## mcoffey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jaded25*


Whoa that was one crazy setup mcoffey. How loud is the system with all those fans?


Whisper quiet with them all running at low speed. Yet another reason to do the majority of the cooling in a separate case. The rad box sit's away from me on the floor, and the fans point away from where I sit. It's not a sound made from fan noise as much as it is air moving, which is quite pleasant. Quiet operation is one of my major goals, and this build exceeded that goal considering what's in it. That's one of the benefits of over radding a rig. More rad surface area equals better cooling with less air moving thru them and less noise.

When I first turned the rig up and my wife walked in the room, she commented "this thing with 20 fans makes less noise than my Dell, I want one". Pretty amazing IMO.

andyc


----------



## Monst3r

haha nice mcoffey, Will post pics soon of my rig!


----------



## MasterShake

Aaaand done. whew 54 pages







.

I'll sign up in a couple weeks.


----------



## IntelFloyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MasterShake*


Aaaand done. whew 54 pages







.


You need to adjust your forum settings, I only see 8 pages.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IntelFloyd*


You need to adjust your forum settings, I only see 8 pages.


i used the longer pages for a while and decided i didn't like it. 10 per page works nicely for me.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


i used the longer pages for a while and decided i didn't like it. 10 per page works nicely for me.


i can't do too many, but ten was too few. I'm likin 30 per page


----------



## ira-k

Nice rig Andy! Thats a sharp external WC'ing rig, I like that..







..You'd like CD & Sry's rig's, they always do nice clean imaginative builds like that also..







..Along with many others here, they are just the 2 most prolific and generally come to my mind first when I see Pro rigs.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey ira-k, you got any more pics you wanna share with this thread? it has been a while since you posted some.


----------



## mcoffey

Thanks Ira,

I enjoyed sharing it with the crew. I'll check out those other member builds you mentioned. I'll upgrade this winter for my 920i rig, so I'm still looking for ideas.

andyc


----------



## ira-k

NP, Thats a sick rig!

CD is a vendor here and has a section in the vendors sub forum, you may know him as Cyber Druid, were just to lazy to type all that out here..









Syr is Syrillian (SP) I always call him Syr because I know I'm not spelling it right, he'll have a ton of builds in the case section.

They both know how to chop a boxen up and make it look nice!..


----------



## Carlitos714

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CL3P20* 
*My sig'd rig...shown with Xfired 4850's..*


















Coppertop GTX: 2x MCW60's: Patron 1.75L res: 77' HC, mod'd by FstFreddy: D5 vario [plumbed]: CyberDruid Techstation: external 13.8v PSU: Aqua-color 1/2" ID tubing by Feser

*and my oldest sons daily user..*


























DD TDX: NB and SB by Iandh: MCW60: MCP355 w/ XS top: 77' HC, mod'd by FstFreddy: Zalman Reserator [pump removed for passive cooled res







]: inverted and mod'd Aspire Xgamer: external 12v PSU: Aqua-color 1/2" ID tubing by Feser

a bottle of PATRON thats so awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelFloyd* 
You need to adjust your forum settings, I only see 8 pages.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
i used the longer pages for a while and decided i didn't like it. 10 per page works nicely for me.

Yea I'm kinda partial to the forum defaults too. Especially when I visit the site on my phone. Can't imagine loading up a pic thread with more than 15 posts.


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey ira-k, you got any more pics you wanna share with this thread? it has been a while since you posted some. 

I'll have to dig some more out. I just made a little copper/brass V-Reg HS, I'll have to take some pic's, since it sets by my CPU block I guess it will count..







..And if it doesn't you'll just have to look at it anyway...







...I've got a bunch more pic's if I could find which HDD there on.

EDIT: It's almost done, I need to still bevel some of the fins a little and do more polishing, the other one is about half-way done. I have quite a bit of adjustment in them so hopefully they will be somewhat universal fit. I'll take some better pic's when there both done and put it in my pic posts.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

thanks ira. 

updated.


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
thanks ira. 

updated.

Thank you to! Your keeping this up nicely..







..I have a hack saw TEC block pin base already sawn out that I've been trying to find and solder a jacket on it. If I ever can find it I'll have some decent CPU block pic's for you, I must of put it in a safe place because I sure can't find it...









The first pic is after I opened the pins up so I could get decent flow, I still have some height adjustments to do. I used a hack saw and jewelry saw to make it. It will be a triple nipple block with a jet barb over the center, I might just cut it down to use as a WC CPU block, if I can ever find the safe place that I put it that is...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Thank you to! Your keeping this up nicely..







..I have a hack saw TEC block pin base already sawn out that I've been trying to find and solder a jacket on it. If I ever can find it I'll have some decent CPU block pic's for you, I must of put it in a safe place because I sure can't find it...










that looks so cool, when i finally get to a point in my life that i have access to all the tools I want (mainly a mill and drill press) i will def have to join you in the custom water block making. 

oh, and this thread is fun to keep up, there are so many cool toys and ideas. ;-)


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
that looks so cool, when i finally get to a point in my life that i have access to all the tools I want (mainly a mill and drill press) i will def have to join you in the custom water block making. 

oh, and this thread is fun to keep up, there are so many cool toys and ideas. ;-)

It's a fun tread, there are a lot of cool rigs and idea's, plus we can talk freely in this one.









That pin base was made with hand saws, it's just slow, probably 4 or 5 hours in just that base. I couldn't do with-out my drill press for holes I'm going to tap though, my hands aren't as steady as they used to be, I'd get them off center and not plumb for sure....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
It's a fun tread, there are a lot of cool rigs and idea's, plus we can talk freely in this one.









That pin base was made with hand saws, it's just slow, probably 4 or 5 hours in just that base. I couldn't do with-out my drill press for holes I'm going to tap though, my hands aren't as steady as they used to be, I'd get them off center and not plumb for sure....









yea, i don't see the point in a pic thread if you cannot talk about what is going up.

and you mean your hands were once steady enough to drill a straight enough hole for threads without a press?

mine never were.


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yea, i don't see the point in a pic thread if you cannot talk about what is going up.

and you mean your hands were once steady enough to drill a straight enough hole for threads without a press?

mine never were. 

HaHa..







..Yup, Once upon a time all I'd use a drill press for is if I had a lot of multiple holes to drill, then I'd set up a jig to do it fast. Actually that HS I just used a hand drill on because I was to lazy to go out to my shop, it's at least another 40' from my back porch, so I did those by hand.But I did get one a little off center....







...They were both plumb enough though.

The majority of this stuff can be made with simple hand tools and a little patience. I just sit around, like when I'm on here, and make little parts, that's half the fun of the hobby to me, theres always something you can make or do to try and help temp's, or looks, a little. It might not look that great but the satisfaction of making my-self off-sets that to me. Plus you can make it more heavy duty to dissipate much more heat.

A pic thread like this is great, for old or new alike, but for new guys it's really nice so that they can ask questions ,if it's something they don't under-stand. A picture really is worth a thousand words.

Rambling over!...







..(For Now)...









EDIT: ooh,ooh,oooh..I got some rep's...







...I hadn't even noticed before, it's been a long time since I looked..Thanks..


----------



## Killhouse

I'll join


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I'll join









read the rules, you gotta Post pics to be in. 

make another post real quick and i will add you.


----------



## SniperXX

My folding/backup pc is watercooled. I ran out of tubing so the cpu is back on air for now.










I've always loved watercooling, great for overclocking and temps. 40C load on the GX2 with shaders @ 2052.







It pulls 14k ppd right now on 353 pointers down to 12k on the big ones.

Oh and yes my res is a gatorade bottle.









I think I paid about 120 total for the pump, clamps, 240 rad, apogee gt, and 5 ft of tygon. Not bad for a cpu loop. The gx2 block came with the card.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

bump


----------



## MeeksMan13

Update on my build:
I now have my Apogee XT (freaking sexy), xchanger 360, EK pump top, tubing, & clamps. All I need is my pump, coolant, and reservoir. I'm going to be getting the inverse t-virus reservoir from FrozenQ with a discount


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SniperXX* 
My folding/backup pc is watercooled. I ran out of tubing so the cpu is back on air for now.

I've always loved watercooling, great for overclocking and temps. 40C load on the GX2 with shaders @ 2052.







It pulls 14k ppd right now on 353 pointers down to 12k on the big ones.

Oh and yes my res is a gatorade bottle.









I think I paid about 120 total for the pump, clamps, 240 rad, apogee gt, and 5 ft of tygon. Not bad for a cpu loop. The gx2 block came with the card.

is that a 9800gx2. that card looks sweet


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crc614* 
is that a 9800gx2. that card looks sweet

Yup it sure is. I like how he cut the housing so it could go back on with the waterblock installed. I've always planned to do that if I ever watercooled a GPU.


----------



## MeeksMan13

so I'm happy, my loop has jumped in awesome-ness. I made a deal and ordered one of FrozenQ's inverse T-virus reservoirs with black caps and red for the helix


----------



## ira-k

Congrats! He makes some cool res no doubt!...


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Congrats! He makes some cool res no doubt!...









oh yeah. those res's were part of the thing that pushed me towards WC in the first place lol. I was talking to him and he's a MechEng major. If he shows this attention to detail and desire for high quality, he's gonna do extremely well


----------



## DUNC4N

That is just sick andyc. Amazing. Idle and load temps?


----------



## Sun

See my build.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Sun, that is a very interesting way to mount a rad, +rep. (also gave you an award in the list)

updated.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I really love the look of the T-Virus resevoirs. They look incredible. If he did a black and green one I may even consider selling my lovely tank for it haha.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I really love the look of the T-Virus resevoirs. They look incredible. If he did a black and green one I may even consider selling my lovely tank for it haha.

he makes them to order.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
he makes them to order. 

That's pretty cool







I'll have to look into it.


----------



## 102014

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sun* 
See my build.


























that is nice, i like how you have got the rad in there, i mite look in my case see if i can do somthing similar next time i drain/refill it.


----------



## Eastrider

Eastrider's:

Hydor L30, 2,10m head, 1200l/h flow
ThermoChill PA120.3 shrouded
x6 Nanoxia FX2000 70CFM + Fan controller Sunbeam.
Feser 1/2" UV Blue tubing
DangerDen Res 120cm fan attacheable.
DTek Fuzion V2
EK VGA Waterblock (removed aluminium plate. Only 1 in use actually, SLI died)
80% Distilled, 20% Glycerine. Silver coil.

------------------


























































------------------

I know it won't impress anybody here, but it's my built rig and I love it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## almighty15

New pic of the updated loop




























Obligatory Xiggy shot


----------



## shredzy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GeforceGTS* 
Heres my simple CPU loop, sorry for not so great pics.

I plan on ditching the orange fans/tubing and going black







Tubing also needs shortening :l





































Question about this. Is that tubing actually a UV Red but when under UV light it looks orange?

Thanks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Hello all, i'm usually in the HAF forum, any possibility I can get added as a member here? I'm already flyin OCN Water Cooling Club colors


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc* 
Hello all, i'm usually in the HAF forum, any possibility I can get added as a member here? I'm already flyin OCN Water Cooling Club colors









we need pictures.


----------



## Zamoldac

Ok so here's my setup

Work in progress since the pics were taken 2x120mm fans were added (push-pull) next on the list cable management and painting the inside of the case.

Also changed the ram with 2x2 hyperX 1066 black edition


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## souljar

Yo guys, am i in ?









Laing D4 12v pump.
EK multioption 250 res.
Swiftech Apogee GTZ block.
TFC blue 1/2" ID tubing.
XSPC RS240, enermax twisters.
Feser 1 cooling fluid, clear.
TFC compression fittings.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

you are def in. 

updated


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Kevingreenbmx,
is this adequate to get me in?










Swiftech 655, Dual Apogee GTZ, Dual stackable 320 rads, 5.25 bay res.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

definitely, looks good. 

updated.


----------



## Bacheezi

Kinda messy, i haven't had time to clean up the cable management... probably just going to replace the case soon with an 800D so no real point in doing it now









I really hate how little room there is in the back of the Cosmos S for cables, I have a lot back there but if i was to put anymore the door wouldn't close









DD 775 Cpu Block (cheapy for now, going to i7 in a few months)
Feser 360 Rad
2x Ultra Kaze 120 2k's on the rad (Heatsink on the top is in the way for a 3rd fan, but theres a coolermaster 120 on the top where the mesh is covering)
5.25 bay res
Liang D5 variable speed pump

Eventually when I get a new video card i'll probably hook that into the system aswell.


























OH! and this is my first attempt at WCing, Im very happy with the results. A lot of the info came off this site, so thanks to everyone who helped


----------



## noob eater4726




----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Very NICE noobeater


----------



## Lysdexik

OMG, did you make that front panel?


----------



## noob eater4726

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


Very NICE noobeater
























Thanks man!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lysdexik*


OMG, did you make that front panel?


Yes, its water jetted.


----------



## Lysdexik

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noob eater4726*


Thanks man!









Yes, its water jetted.


ZOMG, it's beautiful!!! pm coming.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Sickened1

Can you update my link to this: http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=1520

Thanks.


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Hey guys.

I am not new o watercooling at all, btu I do have a question. I have a few of these fittings in my current loop. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24260
One of them started to leak, but not from where it threads in, but where the grip/rotary point is flush with the 45 degree angle. Anyone know if you can fix this yourself, or is it RMA time?


----------



## noob eater4726

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc*


Hey guys.

I am not new o watercooling at all, btu I do have a question. I have a few of these fittings in my current loop. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24260
One of them started to leak, but not from where it threads in, but where the grip/rotary point is flush with the 45 degree angle. Anyone know if you can fix this yourself, or is it RMA time?


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=240222

You're not alone it seems.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sickened1*


Can you update my link to this: http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=1520

Thanks.


nope, but you can make a new post here with all those pics in it. 

i will add that next to your current link like i did for others. ;-)


----------



## MeeksMan13

I was finally able to get my block apart (turns out the right sized hex came with my ek d5 top). My block has a couple of manufacturing defects. They don't seem to be too terribly serious though I'd like to get y'alls opinion on the matter. On the close up picture of certain spots, I've circled the defects that concern me

here's the block as a whole









The top left looks like two bent pins and the bottom right looks like a mess









A closer/better picture of the defects in the previous picture









What looks like pins that were cut too thin. I'm not too worried about these, should I be?









I didn't know if this was a defect or how the block is supposed to be on the inside, it has the same thing on the upper part of the block where it's solid, then tapers into being pins. I was hoping someone with an Apogee XT could look at it and tell me if there's was the same there or not









So basically what I want to know is whether or not these are very minor defects or things I should talk to swiftech about and have them replace. What do you guys think?


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
nope, but you can make a new post here with all those pics in it. 

i will add that next to your current link like i did for others. ;-)

Unfortunately, I was getting about 2 drops a second, and I didnt even have the loop full yet, let alone powered on. Due to the horrendous mess it was making, I drained it again. So no pics







and im not filling it just to let it leak.

Anyone else have any items like this they have had better luck with? If so, link please.


----------



## Lysdexik

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc* 
Unfortunately, I was getting about 2 drops a second, and I didnt even have the loop full yet, let alone powered on. Due to the horrendous mess it was making, I drained it again. So no pics







and im not filling it just to let it leak.

Anyone else have any items like this they have had better luck with? If so, link please.

Man bitspower is usually top notch quality I am sorry to hear this! I would RMA.


----------



## junkyard00000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13*


-snip-


The size pins on the XT block are very hard to machine without bending/breaking. For a while there were a lot of blocks with many bent and damaged pins that were passing QC, as Swiftech stated they didn't affect performance. I am not sure if this is still the case, but yours looks pretty pristine in comparison. Those defects appear rather minor, and shouldn't adversely affect temps.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *junkyard00000* 
The size pins on the XT block are very hard to machine without bending/breaking. For a while there were a lot of blocks with many bent and damaged pins that were passing QC, as Swiftech stated they didn't affect performance. I am not sure if this is still the case, but yours looks pretty pristine in comparison. Those defects appear rather minor, and shouldn't adversely affect temps.

alrighty. I knew that there were a lot of machining defects in the first sets of blocks but I wasn't sure how bad and how mine compared. ira-k suggested I use a razor and if a pin or two wiggle just take it out to keep it from going through my loop, so that's what I'll be doing here in a bit


----------



## Patch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13*


So basically what I want to know is whether or not these are very minor defects or things I should talk to swiftech about and have them replace. What do you guys think?



Super ultra minor. Don't worry about it. Those pins will affect performance about as much as a flying hawk would affect the height of the ocean tide.

But it is a good idea to inspect your blocks. I have a Swiftech MCW60 that was machined the all the pins orientated 180 degrees from normal - it is massively restrictive compared to a typical block. Still works great in an isolated loop (maybe even better than a normal one), but I have to use thick walled tubing to prevent egress tube collapse.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Patch*


Super ultra minor. Don't worry about it. Those pins will affect performance about as much as a flying hawk would affect the height of the ocean tide.

But it is a good idea to inspect your blocks. I have a Swiftech MCW60 that was machined the all the pins orientated 180 degrees from normal - it is massively restrictive compared to a typical block. Still works great in an isolated loop (maybe even better than a normal one), but I have to use thick walled tubing to prevent egress tube collapse.










sweet man, I'm happy to hear that I got a good block







I'm super excited to use it in a loop (will be my first lol)

if all of the pins are basically square, how would a 180 degree rotation affect it?


----------



## junkyard00000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Patch*


the pins orientated 180 degrees from normal - it is massively restrictive











The pins would be the same if turned around halfway. I am confused. Do you perhaps mean 90 degrees?


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *junkyard00000*










The pins would be the same if turned around halfway. I am confused. Do you perhaps mean 90 degrees?


it must be turned 90 degrees to cause severe restriction


----------



## Patch

You are correct. I mispoke. They are orientated 90 degrees.

Here's a thread with pictures I posted about it last spring.


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noob eater4726*






























that my friend, is a very nice looking set up.


----------



## murat

god


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *murat* 
god

let's keep religion out of this.


----------



## Ryanb213

im going to get laughed at if i post my H50 arnt i?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ryanb213*


im going to get laughed at if i post my H50 arnt i?










Yep. That's not considered real water cooling by many, including me.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ryanb213*


im going to get laughed at if i post my H50 arnt i?










yeah, there is a large part of the community that doesn't consider pre-built loops true watercooling


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
yeah, there is a large part of the community that doesn't consider pre-built loops true watercooling

Atleast he was brave enough to put liquids in the computer. More than half of ocn still use that "I don't trust it" excuse.

If the setup looks neat post a pic. That's what the thread is for.


----------



## Ryanb213

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MasterShake* 
Atleast he was brave enough to put liquids in the computer. More than half of ocn still use that "I don't trust it" excuse.

If the setup looks neat post a pic. That's what the thread is for.









I REALLY dont mind putting liquid in my pc, if i had the money, hell yes! I can post pics with my phone but thats all, ill edit this post. And well, to the others, i know this isnt "water cooling" but i seen it in somebodys sig, and pretty much thought well why not mess around here, i really dont consider myself watercooled.










oh well, i am prepared to get laughed at. bring it on!


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ryanb213* 
I REALLY dont mind putting liquid in my pc, if i had the money, hell yes! I can post pics with my phone but thats all, ill edit this post. And well, to the others, i know this isnt "water cooling" but i seen it in somebodys sig, and pretty much thought well why not mess around here, i really dont consider myself watercooled.










oh well, i am prepared to get laughed at. bring it on!

I'm not gonna laugh at ya man, I think that it's not worth the risk to put it under water if you'll get temps that are below that of high-end air cooling. Plus i think it's best to know every part of your loop intimately. it's hard to maintain it and clean it if you didn't learn the tricks to assembling it and disassembling it

on a more positive note, your setup looks really clean


----------



## Eastrider

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
I'm not gonna laugh at ya man, I think that it's not worth the risk to put it under water if you'll get temps that are below that of high-end air cooling. Plus i think it's best to know every part of your loop intimately. it's hard to maintain it and clean it if you didn't learn the tricks to assembling it and disassembling it

on a more positive note, your setup looks really clean

Watercooling is not risky.

Cooling with an H50 or with TT stuff, is not watercooling, is riskcooling something.

But no one said you can't build yourself a badass WC loop.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eastrider* 
Watercooling is not risky.

Cooling with an H50 or with TT stuff, is not watercooling, is riskcooling something.

But no one said you can't build yourself a badass WC loop.

i say risky, but when i say that I mean is it's more risky than air cooling.


----------



## Eastrider

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
i say risky, but when i say that I mean is it's more risky than air cooling.

And also, incredibily more effective.

If completely well built, a watercooling loop it's not more risky than air cooling.

In fact, your WC loop probabily could resist if your case fell off the table. With a TRUE or a IFX, I'm pretty sure you'll damage the socket, or even chop it off. That's more than 500g hanging of the mobo.


----------



## Ryanb213

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eastrider* 
And also, incredibily more effective.

If completely well built, a watercooling loop it's not more risky than air cooling.

In fact, your WC loop probabily could resist if your case fell off the table. With a TRUE or a IFX, I'm pretty sure you'll damage the socket, or even chop it off. That's more than 500g hanging of the mobo.

i have NOTHING against watercooling at all, i just need more money, id LOVE to do it. Is need a new case and a full loop, so thats alot considering my next case will be the 800D

Im not afraid of things like this:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...s-heeeelp.html

If you set everything up right and know what your doing, you should be fine. Always test your loop away from the components before running it


----------



## doat

GTX Black Ice 240 stealth radiator
Masterkleer tubing
EK Supreme LT Acetal Block
Danger Den Bay reservoir
Laing D5 pump
This is an older picture with my old Dtek block








Here is how my rig looks now through my custom window


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ryanb213* 
im going to get laughed at if i post my H50 arnt i?









Not if i have anything to say about it.

I started this thread and all i have is an H50. I even stated in the rules of the thread that ANY form of liquid cooling counts for this thread. I do not want anyone to be discouraged from this thread, it is all about getting more people into watercooling.

you're in.

updated


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eastrider* 
And also, incredibily more effective.

If completely well built, a watercooling loop it's not more risky than air cooling.

In fact, your WC loop probabily could resist if your case fell off the table. With a TRUE or a IFX, I'm pretty sure you'll damage the socket, or even chop it off. That's more than 500g hanging of the mobo.

That's a good point, I didn't even think about it that way. with the cooler I'm using till I can finish up my loop, It would tear my board apart (weighs over 1kg)


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
GTX Black Ice 240 stealth radiator
Masterkleer tubing
EK Supreme LT Acetal Block
Danger Den Bay reservoir
Laing D5 pump
This is an older picture with my old Dtek block


















..........









Are those blue or uv lights? the light itself looks blue but the fans have that purple thing goin.


----------



## doat

Yea they are UV lights


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


Yea they are UV lights


Same with the coolant? I love that effect. (almost monotone look)


----------



## doat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MasterShake*


Same with the coolant? I love that effect. (almost monotone look)


Yea blue feser UV dye, don't spill that stuff it is a pain to get off.


----------



## MlbrottarN

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


GTX Black Ice 240 stealth radiator
Masterkleer tubing
EK Supreme LT Acetal Block
Danger Den Bay reservoir
Laing D5 pump
This is an older picture with my old Dtek block










That's very nice looking, how does the Supreme LT block perform? I have one ariving in the middle of the week ^^


----------



## doat

It is a fantastic block, i have q9550 clocked to 4ghz, load temps are around 50C i hit 60 once with Linx. I hope you got the Acetal and not the plexiglass block.


----------



## woppy101

here is mine


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ryanb213* 
im going to get laughed at if i post my H50 arnt i?









While it is not heavy watercooling by any stretch of the imagination, but, the H50 is really solid, and if you don't have alot of cash it is a great starting point.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *woppy101* 
here is mine

Sweet setup, and squeaky clean. What case are you using? I googled TJ107 and didn't come up with anything except a link to your post LOL


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc* 
While it is not heavy watercooling by any stretch of the imagination, but, the H50 is really solid, and if you don't have alot of cash it is a great starting point.

Sweet setup, and squeaky clean. What case are you using? I googled TJ107 and didn't come up with anything except a link to your post LOL

Probably supposed to be TJ07. Looks like it.


----------



## cooper_inc1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


GTX Black Ice 240 stealth radiator
Masterkleer tubing
EK Supreme LT Acetal Block
Danger Den Bay reservoir
Laing D5 pump











Looks like we Houstonians know how to water cool with style xD


----------



## doat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cooper_inc1* 
Looks like we Houstonians know how to water cool with style xD

I am not even done yet, wait until i get a HAF. Are you also on HI? your haf seems familiar.


----------



## Sickened1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sickened1* 
Can you update my link to this: http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=1520

Thanks.

ya i quoted myself but please OP.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc* 
Sweet setup, and squeaky clean. What case are you using? I googled TJ107 and didn't come up with anything except a link to your post LOL

I believe that is a corsair obsidian


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
I believe that is a corsair obsidian









nah, it is a silverstone TJ07


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


I believe that is a corsair obsidian










This. You can see the Corsair logo on the hot-swap bays.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

i just went back and looked and it def is a corsair case, but why does his sig say tj107?


----------



## Socom

Maby he became overcome with excitement at his incredibly sexeh case and forgot to change his sig.


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Socom* 
Maby he became overcome with excitement at his incredibly sexeh case and forgot to change his sig.

Haha it is a possibility! Though non the less its some good stuff !


----------



## Aleslammer

Posted this before in another section, newer pics with complete setup.

Two 1967-71 Ford T-Bird heater cores, (9.75"h x 6"w x 2.5â€d, Fin Area)
Four Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 120 x 38mm fans
Scythe Kaze Master fan controller
Swiftech MCP655 pump
CPU Block EK Supreme
NB Block Came w/ MB
Tubing size Â½â€ adapted to 3/8â€ at the in & outlet.
PS is an old 400w rewired for this setup
Reservoir is a large stainless steel food storage container w/ locking lid
Running distilled water, (about 1.5 gal) w/ silver as a bio agent.

Top


Back


Old Pic


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Mike431635

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noob eater4726*






























WINNER

/thread


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike431635* 
WINNER

/thread

definitely the cleanest and nicest set up i have seen in this thread imo.


----------



## -bl4ck-

here is my set up finished last night!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Hey all,
im posting in both here and the OCN HAF owner club for this update. I ahd a couple questions about what I was wanting brush on UV paint for. Well, here are my pics for the beginning of it. I would have more done, but I painted until I started going numb in my fingers, this is VERY meticulous work, and my hands shake (broke my hand REALLY bad forever ago, so now, it shakes).

I couldn't get the pic quality the way I wanted, either I was one handing the camera and the pic is blurry, or I 2 handed it and the flash kept going off.

Well, what do you think thus far?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Currently temp testing y system. I am runngin it for a couple hours in BIOS just to make sure everything is happy before I really start it up. Basically it is my final test on any water system. If all goes well, I will be doing more updates on my build log soon. Take care guys, more to follow


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc*


Currently temp testing y system. I am runngin it for a couple hours in BIOS just to make sure everything is happy before I really start it up. Basically it is my final test on any water system. If all goes well, I will be doing more updates on my build log soon. Take care guys, more to follow










Hey, if you are gonna have it on at all you may as well boot into windows.  it isn't like having it just in bios will save anything if you get a leak.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Hey, if you are gonna have it on at all you may as well boot into windows.  it isn't like having it just in bios will save anything if you get a leak.

if it's in bios, you can just hit the power button to turn it off nistead of pulling the plug


----------



## sdla4ever

Welp got my new case and tubing!

RX360, Danger Den CPX-Pro, EK 250, Apogee GTZ, D-Tek Fuzion GPU, Black tygon 3/8", PC-K62


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

your build looks so dark and mean. i am afraid it is going to mug me in a back ally or something.


----------



## Philbar71

you can add me,

my stuff can be found in sig,


----------



## Killhouse

Sign me up







pics to follow when ive sobered up!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Sign me up







pics to follow when ive sobered up!

haha, i'll sign you up when you sober up then. ;-)


----------



## Sethy666

Im in


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Im in









not untill you post pics.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


not untill you post pics. 


DOH! Sorry... Pic enclosed.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## hy897t

Hey I changed a few things around in my loop aswell as got a new card and fans. Enjoy









My fav pic so far
























Very tight fit!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


Hey, if you are gonna have it on at all you may as well boot into windows.  it isn't like having it just in bios will save anything if you get a leak.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13*


if it's in bios, you can just hit the power button to turn it off nistead of pulling the plug


You are both right. I suppose after the utter disaster of my first water loop I did a couple years ago, I have been paranoid. Not necessary, just an order I do things in.

On a follow up note, I ran a bunch of SuperPi tests yesterday, temp spiked to 34c but usually cruised at 32c under load. That was on the long test, so it is doing fine. Stopped to help the other half decorate, dinner, and water a Holiday movie (holidays are big in this house hold) then went back to installing things on it.

More to follow as I go.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc*


You are both right. I suppose after the utter disaster of my first water loop I did a couple years ago, I have been paranoid. Not necessary, just an order I do things in.

On a follow up note, I ran a bunch of SuperPi tests yesterday, temp spiked to 34c but usually cruised at 32c under load. That was on the long test, so it is doing fine. Stopped to help the other half decorate, dinner, and water a Holiday movie (holidays are big in this house hold) then went back to installing things on it.

More to follow as I go.


for me, paranoid is the name of the game. especially since I'm a first timer with actually setting up my own loop. So I'm nervous but excited about working on it even though I helped my friend completely drain and clean his loop a few days ago


----------



## -=sT3V3=-

Heres my Sig Antec 300 :
Mcp655
Dtek Fusion V2
BlackIce Pro GT 360


















































































Lastly, the bit of Rad above my CD rom:










Sorry for bad images, only have phone camera.


----------



## MlbrottarN

Am I in?



















Sig+

CPU block: EK-Supreme
GPU block: EK-FC4890
RAD: EK-Coolstream RAD XT360
Pump: EK-DCP 4.0
Barbs: DD Fat Boys
Tubing: Alot of Black XSPC and a little less of the Transparent XSPC 1/2" ID 3/4" OD
Fans: Grey Xigmatek 1500rpm


----------



## doat

You don't have a cd drive?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MlbrottarN*


Am I in?


def. 

updated.


----------



## MlbrottarN

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
You don't have a cd drive?

External


----------



## PDXMark

Since these pics were taken I've replaced the 160Gb Ide with a second WD 500GB, 16MB SATA, now on raid.
























Like my temporary shroud?

All water cooling parts were bought locally from Danger Den in Astoria, Oregon. radiator was purchased at Autozone in Portland.


----------



## doat

That thing is dusty.


----------



## photonmoo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
That thing is dusty.

Hehe, I was just about to post that too


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

your build looks so dark and mean. i am afraid it is going to mug me in a back ally or something. 

LOL. well that would be my 3rd post, and here would be my 4th with some better close ups and pics of my radbox.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated and fixed.

thanks sdla4ever.


----------



## mazza-

add me
water cooling build still being built but here it is:
so here are the specs for the build, and everything going into it;
the ones in red are in the mail

Intel Core i7 920 D0 [cooled by Megahalem Mega Shadow Deluxe]
ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 X58
6GB (3x2GB) G.Skill PI DDR3 1600MHz
MSI GTX 280 [cooled by Arctic Cooling Accelero Xtreme GTX 280]
Zotac GTX 280
Amptac Pyramid 1000W
Western Digital 750GB (boot;7 Ultimate x64, Vista Ultimate X64, Ubuntu X64)
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB
Pioneer Blu-ray Writer
Logitech G15 Gen1
Razer Lachesis
BenQ G2400WD 24" HD LCD
Acer AL 2416W 24" LCD [secondary, dying from age]
Sennheiser HD 465
Antec 900

ok now the watercooling parts;

Swiftech Apogee GTZ SE CPU Waterblock
TFC Xchanger - Triple Radiator 360
[ 3x Coolermaster Green LED 90CFM 19dBa 2000RPM fans]
another Coolermaster Green LED 90CFM 19 dBa 2000RPM fan for the back
Swiftech MCP 655-B
EK-D5 X-TOP - Acetal G1/4 Rev.2
Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shining Mini D-Plug Set [for pump]
Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Muti-Transfer Coupler [for fill port]
Feser Tube Active UV Hose 1/2 ID UV Acid Green 2.5m
Polypropylene T 1/2" Fitting [for fill port]

Misc. parts:
Corsair Obsidian Series 800D Case
Bitspower Dual 20cm Cold Cathode Kit Green
3pin Fan power splitter x5
3pin Extension Cable x3
Cold Cathode Extension Cable x2
Zalman Microphone ZM-MIC 1
Swiftech MCB-120 Rev2 Radbox [not in use]
Bitspower G1/4 Silver Diamond 1/2 High Flow Fitting x6

worklog:

pics in worklog

EDIT:
bad pic








leak testing

































this case is HUGE: Corsair Obsidian Right, Antec 900 Left


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mazza-* 
pics in worklog

sorry man, but i won't add you unless you post pics in this thread.

make another post with pics and i will add you.


----------



## mazza-

i added pics to previous post (above)


----------



## Villosa

Please add me to the club!


----------



## sarksoul

My gear

Swiftech MCP655-B (no controller)
Swiftech Apogee GTZ
Swiftech Radiator MCR220 QP
FAns Xigmatek 120
Swiftech Micro Reservoir Res2
Swiftech MCW60-4870 (full block)
Feser Tube 1/2
Feser Liquid Premixed Red colour

*photos:*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated. 

this is the first time in a while we have had more than one new member at a time.


----------



## om3n

I'd like in


















Right now my machine is configured with the rad on top, but I don't have any good pictures of it like that yet.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## [email protected]'D

Im already "in" but I'll update my pics soon having a bit of a move around/change of parts


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D*


Im already "in" but I'll update my pics soon having a bit of a move around/change of parts


Just make another post and remind me then that you have already made a post and i will add your second post like i have others.


----------



## MM10X

my WC btw... i guess i belong to the club?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

so guys, this thread is officially my first Sticky. 

Thanks Ira-k. ;-)


----------



## yutzybrian

congrats


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


so guys, this thread is officially my first Sticky. 

Thanks Ira-k. ;-)


It deserves it, such a WIN thread, and now club

This whole thread is like Water Cooling pRon





































Kevin, can you PLEASE update my link on the first page? Here is the finished product.










































More pRon



***CAUTION*** really high resolution
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/.../night-026.jpg


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


It deserves it, such a WIN thread, and now club

This whole thread is like Water Cooling pRon






































I love keeping this thread updated, there are so many awesome builds.

I cannot wait till I can get all my water cooling gear.

edit:

you edited while i was posting. 

your updated now.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Thanks alot man, this is like crack, it's addicting





















but I don't do drugs


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Thanks alot man, this is like crack, it's addicting





















but I don't do drugs









powerful computers ARE a drug.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
powerful computers ARE a drug. 

more like pron! i always come to this thread just to look thru for great builds!


----------



## Patch

My latest water cooling adventure.

I give you.....the Patchpot.

Custom LN2 pot/waterblock/reservoir designed by me and crafted by Duniek.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

*WOW
*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

hey, patch, care to explain a little more what is going on there? It it actually LN2 flowing through the tubes or is it like CL3P20 did with the acetone?


----------



## MlbrottarN

That looks just like a watercooling loop utilizing a LN2 pot as a Waterblock, it should yeild better temps though im not sure about the flow through one of those concidering it's made for evaporating Nitrogene

Edit: Patch I soooo envy your GPU


----------



## Patch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MlbrottarN*


That *looks just like a watercooling loop utilizing a LN2 pot as a Waterblock*, it should yeild better temps though im not sure about the flow through one of those concidering it's made for evaporating Nitrogene


^^^ that is what's going on.

I don't know about the temps since the rig is setup for liquid nitrogen and I don't have any monitoring software on the hard drives. But they might not be bad. The base has _much_ more copper mass than a standard H20 block and it's crafted as a "pyramid" with a horizontal and vertical matrix of holes drilled for a lot of surface area. Here's a thread about the container. With the tubes on opposite ends the water should be traveling around and through the pyramid of copper.

Anyway, it's really just a curiosity with some practical applications for extreme benchers.

I wouldn't use it long term anyway because of the galvanic corrosion it would cause in my radiator (pot is a copper base with an aluminum shaft).


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
powerful computers ARE a drug. 

And modding them to make them look sexy is addictive


----------



## Villosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*


And modding them to make them look sexy is addictive










Hell yeah it is!


----------



## hy897t

Hey thread master I am named twice in the list







Thanks for all the love by I think the pics just may need to added to my first name. I am number 76. & 123.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS*


Hey thread master I am named twice in the list







Thanks for all the love by I think the pics just may need to added to my first name. I am number 76. & 123.


Thanks a lot for pointing that out.  it is hard with this many people. normally i ctrl+f each name, but sometimes i am lazy or it messes up because of an extra space or something.

+rep


----------



## MeeksMan13

I got home from school after finals and started leak testing components today. once the reservoir comes in, it'll be at most 2 hours before I start my full out leak test


----------



## Zippit

I'm in.









More pics in my sig.


----------



## doat

Wow very nice work Zip, i remember when you started this project.


----------



## MeeksMan13

i remember it too. it definitely turned out well! gj

what's your fan setup on that top rad? I'm thinking of doing push-pull with mine cause I won't have enough room for fans and shrouds. is there a lot of clearance between it and the mobo?


----------



## triggs75

Nice build Zippit. Good to see another HAF owner.

Chad


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


Wow very nice work Zip, i remember when you started this project.


Thanks... I'm going to mount both or one externally this week... the parts are on their way.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13*


i remember it too. it definitely turned out well! gj

what's your fan setup on that top rad? I'm thinking of doing push-pull with mine cause I won't have enough room for fans and shrouds. is there a lot of clearance between it and the mobo?


I'm using a push setup with 25mm fans. I bet I could get away with 25mm shrouds or a p/p setup.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triggs75*


Nice build Zippit. Good to see another HAF owner.

Chad


Thanks.... just wait till I'm finished.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


I'm using a push setup with 25mm fans. I bet I could get away with 25mm shrouds or a p/p setup.


Cool. I was thinking of trying to get away with a p/p with a shroud on one side but it seems like that may be a little bit crazy haha

Also, I need to ask a question and I figure this is the right thread, I'm getting closer to setting up my first loop (just waiting on my res from frozenq). I don't know what's the safest way to mount my radiator in my case? It's gonna be at the top, so should I just use fan screws to attach it? or should I use a nut and bolt time deal?


----------



## Zippit

use the screws you got with your rad.


----------



## MeeksMan13

with nuts on them? cause there's gonne be a fan between the case and the rad lol


----------



## MeeksMan13

bump for a great thread (and my question) lol


----------



## FalloutBoy

Meeksman, I'd say just screw straight through the top of the case and the fans in to the threads on your rad with the screws that came with your rad. The other alternative is not so fun/easy but possibly better. Get some short screws with the same thread size as the ones that came with your rad (was M3 for me,) and screw the fans to the rad. Be sure the screws aren't to long otherwise they screw down into the rad grills. I had 15mm long ones and I had to grind a couple mms off them. After that just use fan screws to screw the other side of the fans to the case. No nuts should be needed. Hope that makes sense and helps.









I'll be joining this club soon.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
with nuts on them? cause there's gonne be a fan between the case and the rad lol

No nuts needed... you screw the screw into the rad. Basically making it hang from the screws.


----------



## MeeksMan13

alrighty. so just to be clear, I'm going to screw the fans to the radiator using the short screws that came with the rad, then use some fan screws (of which i have a plethora of) through the top of the case and into the fans at the top of the rad


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
alrighty. so just to be clear, I'm going to screw the fans to the radiator using the short screws that came with the rad, then use some fan screws (of which i have a plethora of) through the top of the case and into the fans at the top of the rad

Why not just pick up some M4 tapped screws? That is what I did for my build, just go up to the local hardware store and buy the screws. I picked up 40mm M4 screws for my GTX 240 with my 38mm fans and then some 4mm screws for the top of the rad through the top of my HAF 932 and it turned out fine.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
alrighty. so just to be clear, I'm going to screw the fans to the radiator using the short screws that came with the rad, then use some fan screws (of which i have a plethora of) through the top of the case and into the fans at the top of the rad

Use the long screws you got with your rad they'll go through your case, through your fans and into your rad.


----------



## underdog1425

Update, thar be a few changes since I posted here last


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *underdog1425* 
Update, thar be a few changes since I posted here last

hey, i could not find where you were already in the list. did you post pics last time?

I added you to the end of the list though.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
Use the long screws you got with your rad they'll go through your case, through your fans and into your rad.

alrighty, thanks for the help guys


----------



## underdog1425

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey, i could not find where you were already in the list. did you post pics last time?

I added you to the end of the list though.

May have been an older thread xD oopsie


----------



## murat

this is my Water Cooling


----------



## mfb412

...why is one fan pulling and one pushing on your top rad


----------



## doat

Lol i noticed that too


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *murat* 
this is my Water Cooling   

This is it. *Speechless*, This is the 2009 best custom LC-PC of year!


----------



## mfb412

Firstlesson GAMERIG
DO NOT QUOTE MULTIPLE PICTURES, i can't stress that enough, no one can, all you're doing is raping our bandwidth for essencially nothing.
(also, Snipe_Dog's Fl0w is far better than his, not taking anything away from anyone, but there are much bigger and better setups than his)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

and yes, please remove the pictures from quotes unless it is to point out a specific picture.


----------



## CatfishSoup

its so colorful and Christmas like !


----------



## Ulysses Cazuquel

First very happy to be part of this great community









System Watercooler fully sponsored by *DangerDen*
And also Heatsink sponsored by *Thermalright*


----------



## mahtareika

Here is my chilly beast.









Swiftech MCP-655
TE Tech LC-200 x 2
TE Tech TC-48-20 x 2


----------



## Socom

Watercool your ram for the lolz mahtareika.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## GAMERIG

T-Line WC Rig


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

also, an update on my personal build: I ordered the heatkiller lt and the EK classified waterblock for my rig. Finally I will have a rig worthy of maintaining this thread.


----------



## Outcasst




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

ahhh my new loop just leaked all over my 4890 and mobo!!!!!!!!!!!!
hopefully the watercooling gods will have mercy on me


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan* 
ahhh my new loop just leaked all over my 4890 and mobo!!!!!!!!!!!!
hopefully the watercooling gods will have mercy on me

ouch...

keep us updated. what leaked?


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan* 
ahhh my new loop just leaked all over my 4890 and mobo!!!!!!!!!!!!
hopefully the watercooling gods will have mercy on me

Wow. hopefully everything is good. I just redid my loop yesterday. now you've got me nervous.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MasterShake* 
Wow. hopefully everything is good. I just redid my loop yesterday. now you've got me nervous.

Have you work on car's the radiator for new/replacment and coolant to refill before? You dont worry if you did make sure that all clamps screw as tights as same concept of auto's radiator and coolant. I have to avoid the plastic clamp for loops. I use stainsteel clamps.


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Have you work on car's the radiator for new/replacment and coolant to refill before? You dont worry if you did make sure that all clamps screw as tights as same concept of auto's radiator and coolant. I avoid to have plastic clamp on loops. I use stainsteel clamps.

I know but its all man made. Something can always go wrong i guess.
lol I still remember computer classes when I was smaller. "water near the computer is baaaad"







.


----------



## wire

Are H50 members welcomed or do we get laughed at?







lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wire*


Are H50 members welcomed or do we get laughed at?







lol


welcome as always. ;-) i myself have one and this is my thread.


----------



## wire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


welcome as always. ;-) i myself have one and this is my thread.


Well here is a pic of my setup.


----------



## pewpewlazer

Preview of my internal WC P182 project


----------



## SniperXX

Heres my sig rig finally under water. OP can you add this post to my current spot (107), that way I'm not up there twice.










I just finished swapping out the v8 and putting in the loop tonight. @ 4Ghz at 1.3v I load at 63C vs 80C before.









I still need to work on the wires. Then I will update with better pics.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
Well here is a pic of my setup.


















A window case + black interior would look awesome


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GeforceGTS*


Heres my simple CPU loop, sorry for not so great pics.

I plan on ditching the orange fans/tubing and going black







Tubing also needs shortening :l











Wow, I really want to get a real WC setup...and I would want it to look like this!


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


ouch...

keep us updated. what leaked?


these POS plastic barbs on my nb block. Im seriously going to cry if somthing is dead


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan*


these POS plastic barbs on my nb block. Im seriously going to cry if somthing is dead


plastic?

why plastic?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

hmm, ive got some problems too, lucky me it was leaking outside of my case.
Im building my rad externaly so had everything setup for leaktesting.
After a few minutes i heared something dripping. 
The barbs i used for the rad dont have rubber sings around it, so they where the problem. 
Now the only thing ive got to do is get some sealtape and put that on the barb, and screw the barb back in, it'll be fine(i hope so....xD)

anyways, pics will follow..


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

plastic?

why plastic?

Dude, Yeah Thats why I have to avoid any Plastic threaded barbs or Plastic Clamp for loop, expect Tee for t-line..


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

plastic?

why plastic?

they came with the nb block and i didnt have any good ones. I just switched them out with dtek barbs and everything is dry so far


----------



## mtbmike777

hey there

i think my cooling setup just meets the requirements for this club







only just







here are some pic's of my current rig


























CPU
[email protected]

Motherboard
GigaByte-GA-EX58-UD5 With EK-FB-Kit

Memory
6GB-GSkill-Perfect Storm-2000Mhz-1.65v-8/8/8/21-1T

Graphics Card
2x BFG-GTX285-OC-X-Edition-1GB In SLi

Hard Drive
2 x 500GB SG-B-7200.12-RAID0--SamSung-F3-1TB

Sound Card
Integ'd Realtek HD 8.1

Power Supply
CoolerMaster Silent Pro 1000w 80 Plus-B, Modular (being swapped for a Enermax Revo 85+ 1250w)

Case
CoolerMaster HAF932-Mod'd

CPU cooling
EK-Supreme/Blk-Ice-SR1-240/XsPc-DualRes/ST-Mcp-355

GPU cooling
Stock for now

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64

Monitor
Samsung Sync Master P2250 22" 2Ms 50000:1


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan* 
they came with the nb block and i didnt have any good ones. I just switched them out with dtek barbs and everything is dry so far

ok just fired it up and everything is fine. ill post pics later!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan* 
ok just fired it up and everything is fine. ill post pics later!

awesome, glad it worked out ok for ya.


----------



## photonmoo

My newly water cooled scout













































*sigh* I need to get my HAF back from my bro in law, I lent it to him so he could play a few games... (I'm so nice)


----------



## SniperXX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

plastic?

why plastic?

Some swiftech blocks still come with plastic barbs, my res did and so did my old Apogee GT.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 7hm

Here's my setup


----------



## GAMERIG

UPDATE:









This looks much better then *the first one*.









*CPU Waterblock*: Danger Den TDX
*Pump*: D-5 Pump
*Radiator*: 240mm Black Ice XtremeII Radiator
*Case Fans*: Two 200mm CoolerMaster & 120x38mm LinkDepot Fans
*Barbs/fittings*: all 1/2 of Perfect Seal fittings
*Radiator Fans*: four 120mm Yate Loon Fans
*Reservoirs*: T-line/Fillport
*Tubing*: FDA Type 10-Foot Clear Tubing -1/2" ID - 1/8 inch wall -
*Tubing Clamps*: all Stainless Steel Hose Clamps
*Liquid*: Target Distilled Water mix with O'reilly Coolant

HNY 2010!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## monoxide.tryst

Does this Qualify???









Water Cooling components:
Swiftech Apogee gt Cpu Block
Swiftech mcr320 Rad
2 X Swiftech Mcw60 Gpu Blocks
2 X C-Systems CSP 750 MARK II Water Pumps
Large Home Made Acrylic Reservoir
1/2" Tygon Tubing
lots of thread sealant
Regular old Distilled Water(About 3L)


----------



## junkyard00000

Just needs a list of w/c components


----------



## ChickenInferno

Will be updating my rig this week with mosfet and gpu blocks.


----------



## monoxide.tryst

Sorry Updated


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *junkyard00000* 
Just needs a list of w/c components









whom you talk to?


----------



## junkyard00000

monoxide.. he updated his post


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChickenInferno*


Will be updating my rig this week with mosfet and gpu blocks.










Awesome, can't wait to see pics and clocks.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


whom you talk to?


everyone who did not read the rules.


----------



## reiben05

mine.. and its still not finish XD


----------



## pipeandwire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc*


well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.

Specs:
Swiftech MCP655-b
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCW60
Swiftech MicroRes v2
Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
18x High Speed Yate loons.











this is a monster... might be cheaper to buy a small refrigerator and keep it in there. lol, nice setup. what are your cpu temps with that rascal under load?


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pipeandwire*


this is a monster... might be cheaper to buy a small refrigerator and keep it in there. lol, nice setup. what are your cpu temps with that rascal under load?


more like.. how much power does this take up !

crazy set up. wish i had something so epic


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mtbmike777*


hey there

i think my cooling setup just meets the requirements for this club







only just







here are some pic's of my current rig

Motherboard
GigaByte-GA-EX58-UD5 With EK-FB-Kit

...


Ooof! I have the same motherboard and also considered the chipset block set but the tubing noodlefest was something I thought I would try later if the chipset numbers got too high. I see from your layout pattern you managed to squeeze all those connections into that tight little spot. Not sure the big thick tubing I used would be as cooperative with such a tight little grouping of cooling pasta. Nice!


----------



## enrell

Parts
Swiftech MCP355
Cooltrek 120.3 with 3x Noctua P12 Pull Fans
MasterKlear 1/2" tubing
XSPC Res Top



















tanx !!


----------



## MasterShake

I'm far from done but I thought I'd throw up a few pics with my shrouds with the paint in beta. lol

Lets see:
1 Laing D5 pump stock
1 Stinger v8 cpu block with Polycarbonate top
1 XSPC gpu block
1 480GTX rad with a CyberDruid custom stand

I have to get a fan controller so I can use all 8 Scythe ultra kaze's (only using 4 right now).
Also gonna repaint paint all fans and shrouds and repaint my case.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Here are my new toys, I can't wait till i have everything else i need to use them.









more info in my build log in my sig.

let me know if you want internal pics. ;-)


----------



## MasterShake

Ofcourse we want internal pics silly


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MasterShake*


Ofcourse we want internal pics silly


haha, anyone know how hard it is to get these blocks apart and back together safely? I have never had any to take apart before...


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

inside pics or ****






















jk


----------



## Spawn-Inc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pipeandwire* 
this is a monster... might be cheaper to buy a small refrigerator and keep it in there. lol, nice setup. what are your cpu temps with that rascal under load?

lol, well if a mini fridge could handle the constant load i would opt for that.

thanks, here is my most recent temps

http://www.overclock.net/7289705-post42.html

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CatfishSoup* 
more like.. how much power does this take up !

crazy set up. wish i had something so epic

according to the psu calc site the 2 pumps and 18 high speed yates pull 150 watts.

what i would like to do later on is add a 4th MCR320 and a MCR420 so i can get a 4x4 setup running 32 high speed yates


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
lol, well if a mini fridge could handle the constant load i would opt for that.

thanks, here is my most recent temps

http://www.overclock.net/7289705-post42.html

according to the psu calc site the 2 pumps and 18 high speed yates pull 150 watts.

what i would like to do later on is add a 4th MCR320 and a MCR420 so i can get a 4x4 setup running 32 high speed yates

Wow, only a 10c difference between load temps and ambient. Nice temps. Now I really wanna get a second 480...or two?


----------



## Levesque

My first ''2'' loops in my HAF932.









Ambiant temp = 17-18 celsius (-30-40 outside!)
-CPU idle 21 celsius and cores at 27-28 celsius full load 46-47 celsius max
-5970 idle 22 celsius full load (Furmark) 33-34 celsius, with VRMs never going over 55 celsius

CPU loop:
-i7 920 at 3.9 (for now...)
-Apogee XT block
-TFC X-Changer 360
-Swiftech MCR655 pump
-Swiftech Micro-RES
-EK top rev 2
-fans: 3X S-Flex ''F''

GPU loop:
-ATI 5970
-EK-5970 block
-Swiftech MCR320
-Swiftech MCR655
-Swiftech Micro-RES
-EK top rev 2
-Fans: 3X S-Flex ''E''

Misc:
-Fan controller: Scythe Server (really nice, all automatic fan control)
-HAF 932
-Asus P6T deluxe v1
-RAM 12 Gb Corsair DDR3-1600
-Hard disk: 2X Intel X25-M v2 160 Gb + Velociraptor 300 Gb + 2X Seagate 7200.12 1Tb
-X-Fi Titanium
-PSU: Corsair HX1000
-LG Blu-ray writer

I still have cable mangement to do. But everything is working fine.

And sorry for the bad pic.








I'm not really a ''photograph''.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## reiben05

mine.. completed


----------



## Open1Your1Eyes0

I'm not on here yet? Please add me.









*Link Here*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

reiben05 is updated.

open, you need to post pics here.


----------



## Open1Your1Eyes0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
open, you need to post pics here.









Done.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## tat2monsta

oooh. why aint i seen this before?

D5 pump
D-Tek Fuzion V2 WB with quad insert
3/120 ThermoChill PA120.3
7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer PVC Tubing
distilled water (i own a water distiller) 5% anti freeze
no colouring.. thats all from the lights


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

who wants to be #150?


----------



## voigts

Hardware: E8500 @ 4.2ghz, Gigabyte EP45-UD3P MB, 2x2GB OCZ 1066 RAM, Corsair 620 modular PSU

Watercooling: Aquastream XT Ultra, 2 x MCR320 rads, Swiftech GTZ CPU WB, MCW60 with GT200 heatsink, custom made res (by me).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Yay! we have 150 members!

updated.

also, voigts gets my Classiest wooden case award. looks awesome man.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *voigts* 
Hardware: E8500 @ 4.2ghz, Gigabyte EP45-UD3P MB, 2x2GB OCZ 1066 RAM, Corsair 620 modular PSU

Watercooling: Aquastream XT Ultra, 2 x MCR320 rads, Swiftech GTZ CPU WB, MCW60 with GT200 heatsink, custom made res (by me).










that case rocks the casbah dude.


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

on the outside it looks like sothig from my grandmas house but on the inside, awesome


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yep, that wooden case is the ultimate sex.

And omg can't wait to be able to post updated pics of my setup. It's all completely different. Just waiting until the CM 690 2 comes out so I can buy it and put my gear in. I have plans for chrome dipped copper tube elbow joints instead of cheap plastic elbow joints. Also thinking of running the cables through chrome dipped copper tubes as well to keep it all looking ultra tidy.

Mmmmmn. Green, black and chrome in a pc. I smell sex!


----------



## sti-06

I cant wait to go home and setup mine


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I have not changed any of my W/c yet, but i noticed my old pic was from before i made my case sexy.

here is what i have going for me now:


----------



## voigts

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
that case rocks the casbah dude.

Thanks.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan* 
on the outside it looks like sothig from my grandmas house but on the inside, awesome

In that case, I hit the head right on. I really like the classy styling found in early 20th century woodworking.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Yep, that wooden case is the ultimate sex.

Now THAT is a compliment









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I have not changed any of my W/c yet, but i noticed my old pic was from before i made my case sexy.

here is what i have going for me now:

I like the black and red color coordination you have going there.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *voigts*


I like the black and red color coordination you have going there.


thanks. 

check out my work log for more pics.


----------



## xArchAngelZerox

I'm quite excited to finally be joining this club.

I need to redo my tubing...but here's what I've got right now =)


----------



## mfb412

What temps do you get on that 3.6 Q6600? always wanted to see how my modded TRUE did against high end watercooling


----------



## ChickenInferno

Waiting for my roommate to come back with his allen wrenches so I can get these gpu blocks on...(Not adding the mosfets to the loop for probablly a week as sidewinders royally pissed me off.)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## pipeandwire

dude that is awsome ! the wood paneling has me in stiches....lol NICE SETUP though


----------



## xArchAngelZerox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
What temps do you get on that 3.6 Q6600? always wanted to see how my modded TRUE did against high end watercooling









I idle at 30/28/25/25, and after about ten minutes of Prime95, I'm at 45/44/40/40

Beats the crap out of my old xiggy. I maxed out around 60 or 62.

Also, it's only been about 48 hours since I set it up, and I used my AS5...so theoretically, my temps will drop over the next few days as the AS5 cures.

What about you?


----------



## GAMERIG

@ HAF Bro xArchAngelZerox, -nice setup there!


----------



## triggs75

Here is a pic of my hardwares new home. More pics in my build log in my sig.


----------



## sti-06

my pic is ****ty but here it is:


----------



## Forsaken_id

Here's my first attempt:

































I went a little overzealous in my reservoir size and am going to update it to full internal with shorter UV green lines, smaller res, and whatnot. Also need to tidy up and sleeve my stuff more when i am not so busy using it. . .

--Rome


----------



## doat

That is awesome i love the glow of the fans.


----------



## xArchAngelZerox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
@ HAF Bro xArchAngelZerox, -nice setup there!









Thanks!

Finally figured out what I wanted to do with the lights I have =)










I just need to get some UV lights to make the tubes pop


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triggs75*












First I:


















































































































Then I:


----------



## triggs75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


First I:


















































































































Then I:












































































































LOL Thank you very much.

I am really happy with this build. I have a couple more small items to add to it still, but it's been a fun build.

Chad


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

*Everyone, check my sig for a good deal




























near the bottom




























*

Kevin, again, thanks for keeping up with the updating and for making such a MASSIVE WIN club


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


Kevin, again, thanks for keeping up with the updating and for making such a MASSIVE WIN club










np, it is fun.


----------



## Villosa

triggs75,

One word...NICE!


----------



## triggs75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Villosa*


triggs75,

One word...NICE!


Thank you very much.

Chad


----------



## walker450

Here is a photo summary of my geothermal loop I setup last fall. The entire thread is posted in the cooling experiments section. Link: http://www.overclock.net/cooling-exp...ml#post7022905









































































I started to get into overclocking and moved from the stock Q9550 cooler to a Zalman 9500... I was able to only moderately overclock with the less than desirable Zalman... I then had the idea of a geothermal loop, so I started googling and found a few other people that have done it (see main thread for links). I came up with a plan, and started digging.

I stopped digging around 42" because of all of the groundwater seeping into my hole which made the red clay a nightmare to dig. I placed a 50' cool of 1/2" copper refrigeration tubing in the ground, and connected the ends to PVC pipe, which run into the house.

One pipe is connected to the discharge of an Ehiem 1250 pump, the other end dumps into my home-made reservoir.

I then submerged a temporary 10W pond pump in the reservoir and I use it to circulate water to the CPU block and back to the reservoir. The warm water from the CPU loop simply mixes with the cool water from the geothermal loop.

All of the hoses inside the house are insulated to help keep them cold, since the water is below ambient room temps. I am running approximately 40% antifreeze and 60% demineralized water. With the antifreeze in the system, I do not have to run the pump during below freezing weather, since the pipes leaving the house are exposed to the elements.

Right now, the water temperature is averaging around 6.4C when I start the loop. I am currently using a temp gun for temp readings, since my remote digital thermometer is currently out of service. CPU temperatures at idle are around 21, loaded on prime small fft around 43... (overclocked from 2.83 to 3.895)

I am using an unlapped Q9550 with an unlapped Apogee GTZ waterblock, with AS5 TIM. I plan on lapping both the next time I have the computer all apart.

Temperatures will vary slightly with the seasons, and I will have much better data a year from now.

Thanks for looking!! Please view the main thread for all of the pictures and discussion from day one.


----------



## MasterShake

That is an excellent Idea walker. Do you think you could get temps even lower without the pond pump and the cpu's heat dump into the res?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated with a new award winner. ;-)


----------



## snow cakes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *walker450* 
Here is a photo summary of my geothermal loop I setup last fall. The entire thread is posted in the cooling experiments section. Link: http://www.overclock.net/cooling-exp...ml#post7022905









































































I started to get into overclocking and moved from the stock Q9550 cooler to a Zalman 9500... I was able to only moderately overclock with the less than desirable Zalman... I then had the idea of a geothermal loop, so I started googling and found a few other people that have done it (see main thread for links). I came up with a plan, and started digging.

I stopped digging around 42" because of all of the groundwater seeping into my hole which made the red clay a nightmare to dig. I placed a 50' cool of 1/2" copper refrigeration tubing in the ground, and connected the ends to PVC pipe, which run into the house.

One pipe is connected to the discharge of an Ehiem 1250 pump, the other end dumps into my home-made reservoir.

I then submerged a temporary 10W pond pump in the reservoir and I use it to circulate water to the CPU block and back to the reservoir. The warm water from the CPU loop simply mixes with the cool water from the geothermal loop.

All of the hoses inside the house are insulated to help keep them cold, since the water is below ambient room temps. I am running approximately 40% antifreeze and 60% demineralized water. With the antifreeze in the system, I do not have to run the pump during below freezing weather, since the pipes leaving the house are exposed to the elements.

Right now, the water temperature is averaging around 6.4C when I start the loop. I am currently using a temp gun for temp readings, since my remote digital thermometer is currently out of service. CPU temperatures at idle are around 21, loaded on prime small fft around 43... (overclocked from 2.83 to 3.895)

I am using an unlapped Q9550 with an unlapped Apogee GTZ waterblock, with AS5 TIM. I plan on lapping both the next time I have the computer all apart.

Temperatures will vary slightly with the seasons, and I will have much better data a year from now.

Thanks for looking!! Please view the main thread for all of the pictures and discussion from day one.










+1 rep, all that to cool a single CPU, can't get more intense than that man


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Id been waiting a while to see that walker450























Also, the video card is pending for sale


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Hey, a "little" update for me:

I changed from my CM690 to the CM ATCS 840.
Here is the worklog.

My old rig:




And the new stuff:
















Nothing changed for the used parts, only i used 2x sflex 1900rpm, and the stock coolermaster 230mm fans on top.

grtz


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## snow cakes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13*


yeah, there is a large part of the community that doesn't consider pre-built loops true watercooling


imagine buying a lego kit that comes built lol, wts the fun in that


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*


Hey, a "little" update for me:

I changed from my CM690 to the CM ATCS 840.
Here is the worklog.

My old rig:

And the new stuff:



Nothing changed for the used parts, only i used 2x sflex 1900rpm, and the stock coolermaster 230mm fans on top.

grtz


I am wonderng your case is aluminum?

your CM case is neat and look ALMOST like Corsair Obsidian Series 800D.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I am wonderng your case is aluminum?

your CM case is neat and look ALMOST like Corsair Obsidian Series 800D.










ye, its aluminum. 
It looks a bit like the 800D, but not the same tho, i prefer this one


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*


ye, its aluminum. 
It looks a bit like the 800D, but not the same tho, i prefer this one










Yeah I want one, want one, want one..LOL!.. anyway My CM 922's body like cheap steel..








how much for case?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

hmm, here in holland its 160 euro without the sidewindow.
But you'll get a lot for that money.
3x230mm fans, 1x120mm fan, just perfect


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Products
------------------------------------------------------
3 x Enermax "Magma"-Twister Bearing SilentExtreme Operationl 120mm Fan - Sleeved (UCMA12) = $47.85
Sleeve Color Black
Heatshrink Color Black
10 x Bitspower Premium G1/4" Black Matte High Flow 3/8" (5/8") Compression Fitting (BP-MBCPF-CC3) = $89.50
1 x Swiftech MCP355™ 12 VDC Pump (MCP355) = $64.95
1 x Bitspower DDC Mini Water Tank for Laing Pumps (BP-DDCT-CL) = $34.95
1 x Swiftech Radiator - MCR320 Quiet Power Series Triple 120 mm - Black (MCR320-QP-K) = $67.95
Fitting Size No Fittings
1 x Danger Den Delrin Fillport (FILLPORT-DN) = $11.99
Fitting Size 3/8" Barb for 3/8" ID tube
1 x *** NEW *** Koolance 4-Fan Wiring Harness, 3-Pin (CBL-NX006P) = $3.99

------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $321.18
United Parcel Service (1 x 9.93lbs) (Ground): $14.01
Total: $335.19


ordered.


----------



## triggs75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


ordered.










Very nice. Can't wait to see the build. Have fun with it.

Chad


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
Very nice. Can't wait to see the build. Have fun with it.

Chad

Oh I will.  already have too...

subscribe to my worklog in my sig if you wanna keep up with the carnage. ;-)


----------



## mfb412

4.5 GHz, NOW


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfb412*


4.5 GHz, NOW










I wish, but my chip SUCKS. I have to use 1.4v to get to 4.0ghz. the vid is 1.24v.


----------



## mfb412

ouch.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfb412*


ouch.


I know right? I also have massive vdroop. with it set to 1.40 it droops down to 1.34 under load.


----------



## CatfishSoup

freaking love this thread! amazing builds, but so far, Triggs75 has the best in this club imo.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CatfishSoup*


freaking love this thread! amazing builds, but so far, Triggs75 has the best in this club imo.


His is awesome, but did you see Oblivion.Sky's?


----------



## ChickenInferno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
ordered. :d











Just as a small update: One of my GTX 280's died, which is why I haven't posted pictures yet. Sidewinders also completely wasted my time with my mosfet/fittings order. It's taken me until today just to get the second mosfet in and it wasn't from sidewinders. Whenever the second GTX 280 comes back from RMA/waterblock installed, I will post my massive single loop

Just a teaser for the final carnage

XSPC Res. Top --> MCP355 Pump --> BIX 480 w/8xSan Ace 120's with 38mm Shrouds --> Mosfet 1 --> Mosfet 2 --> Heatkiller (Cu) 3.0 --> Bitspower Black Freezer Chipset Block --> Heatkiller GPU-X2 #1 --> Heatkiller GPU-X2 #2 -->


----------



## kevingreenbmx

dang, thats alot for just one pump and a 480mm rad...

can't wait to see it.


----------



## ChickenInferno

I've had all of it hooked up before with the exception of the mosfet blocks, which from what I've heard are not restrictive at all, and it ran fine. I thought that adding the GTX 280 to the i7 loop would be too much, but my temps never go above 38C (22-24C ambient). Still have yet to see temps on a second GTX 280


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


His is awesome, but did you see Oblivion.Sky's?


no i havent :O !

what page?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CatfishSoup*


no i havent :O !

what page?


check out the first page, its got all the members listed








ctrl f if you wanna search


----------



## CD69Scorp

Update: Second post for CDs Sniper.
Added;
Black Ice GTX-120 rad.
Paniflo 120x38mm fan
2nd MCP655 pump
All compression fittings
1/2 x 3/4 Tygon tubing
GTX-260physX









By cd69scorp, shot with E4600 at 2010-01-10









By cd69scorp, shot with HP PhotoSmart 618 (V1.10) at 2010-01-10









By cd69scorp, shot with E4600 at 2009-12-29









By cd69scorp, shot with HP PhotoSmart 618 (V1.10) at 2010-01-10

I think I am running out of room in this case!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

thats lookin pretty intense there CD69Scorp.

updated


----------



## mfb412

a GTX 260 JUST for physX... god i wish i had that much money to blow


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfb412*


a GTX 260 JUST for physX... god i wish i had that much money to blow










The 260 was stuffed into my HP, that I now use as a backup. Why not use it when the HP is not in use?


----------



## masonkian

i have the swiftech h20-220

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/h20-220-compact.asp

i am adding the mcw60-r to the loop for my hd4890. changing tubing to clear and also changing rad fans to scythe's.

do you think this will be ok ?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *masonkian*


i have the swiftech h20-220

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/h20-220-compact.asp

i am adding the mcw60-r to the loop for my hd4890. changing tubing to clear and also changing rad fans to scythe's.

do you think this will be ok ?


pics!

------------------------------------------

oh, and btw, i have internal pics of my blocks coming right up. ;-)

.


----------



## masonkian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
pics!

------------------------------------------

oh, and btw, i have internal pics of my blocks coming right up. ;-)

.

not added the GPU block and tubing yet just making sure it will be ok


----------



## ira-k

Come on Kevin, I'm waiting for those pic's..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Come on Kevin, I'm waiting for those pic's..









k.


----------



## ira-k

HaHa..Cool! Looking good..







..Thanks for the pic's!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
HaHa..Cool! Looking good..







..Thanks for the pic's!

Thanks!

I am really excited about this stuff, the rest of the parts I need to get my first custom loop up and running should be here Wednesday or Thursday.


----------



## ira-k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


Thanks!

I am really excited about this stuff, the rest of the parts I need to get my first custom loop up and running should be here Wednesday or Thursday.










I know how you feel Bud, I still feel the same way when I'm waiting on parts for a new rig, it hasn't gotten old yet..









Hope you enjoy it as much as most of us do, it gets to be a hobby, upkeep isn't a problem, its fun to tear apart and play with on a slow night..







..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ira-k*


I know how you feel Bud, I still feel the same way when I'm waiting on parts for a new rig, it hasn't gotten old yet..









Hope you enjoy it as much as most of us do, it gets to be a hobby, upkeep isn't a problem, its fun to tear apart and play with on a slow night..







..










that is exactly what my computer is for me. A (very expensive) hobby. 

I don't really game enough to need this comp, and i def don't do work tht requires this much power. I just enjoy it...

(all of the work in my worklog waqs done on "slow nights" that i had nothing better to do)


----------



## mfb412

Excuse me while i go change my pants


----------



## Syrillian

Whoa Kevin-dood, that gear is sweeeeeeet!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfb412*


Excuse me while i go change my pants


haha, so it was you that made that smell... 

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Syrillian*


Whoa Kevin-dood, that gear is sweeeeeeet!




















I love it already and I don't even have it installed.


----------



## Valhalla870

Can you add me up? waiting for my graphics card to come in so can finish up my loop.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Valhalla870

thanks man


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valhalla870*


thanks man


np.


----------



## XedLos

I have a Heatkiller 3.0 and my idle temps are about 33deg. Do these seem right? Is it a bit high? im at 4ghz @ 1.36v


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XedLos*


I have a Heatkiller 3.0 and my idle temps are about 33deg. Do these seem right? Is it a bit high? im at 4ghz @ 1.36v


seem fine to me


----------



## Mr_Nibbles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XedLos*


I have a Heatkiller 3.0 and my idle temps are about 33deg. Do these seem right? Is it a bit high? im at 4ghz @ 1.36v


Those are fine temps.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Idle mean nothing. what are your load temps with Linx with max problem size?


----------



## ira-k

Yeah idle doesn't matter for temp's, unless your over-heating of course.. Actually your idle may very well be a little higher then a HSF but your load should be a lot lower depending on v-core.

Load it up on Prime small or large for at least a 1/2 hour and see what you get.


----------



## ChickenInferno

I Idle at around 40-43C on my hottest core, but I load around 76 at 4.546ghz 1.475v. The load temp is all that matters.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

My i7 this whole winter has been idling from 34-37C on all cores. Ran Intel Burn test once for 15 runs and the highest temp by real temp was 56C


----------



## outtamymind

wow i just went through all 88 pages and you guys all have some awesome rigs. makes me want to watercool again.


----------



## MADMAX22

Well figured as I would throw my utilitarian rigs up here.

Both arent finished yet. The 932 rig I gotta finish my setup and wiring. The v9 rig well lets just say once I get a new case that thing is gonna suffer the wrath of hell the best I can invision it. The V9 is probably one of the worst cases I have ever played with.

My advice if your gonna go budget case, go with coolermaster.

Oh and note the homemade T fitting. I didnt have another one so ran to lowes and soldered up a fitting. Works very well.


----------



## kellygtp

Just redid my build from a 900 to a 932


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## XedLos

I checked my temps on 100% load and i got about 62-63 degrees. It still seems a bit high to me.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XedLos* 
I checked my temps on 100% load and i got about 62-63 degrees. It still seems a bit high to me.

whats your OC? that really isn't bad for an I7 (and why have you not joined yet?







)


----------



## XedLos

I'm at 4ghz at 1.36v
Here are my pics of my rig. I have a heatkiller 3.0, swiftech mcp655 and
XSPC RX360.
In the front of my case i have 4 buttons that turn on the lights. The first button turns on/off the red cfls and the middle 2 buttons controls the uv lights and the last button turns off the fan leds.
Front








All the lights on








Red Cathodes and Led lights on.








UV only


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

yea, for that OC those temps are good.

btw, what size tubing is that?


----------



## XedLos

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated.

yea, for that OC those temps are good.

btw, what size tubing is that?


1/2 inch. I was thinking of going 3/4 but just went 1/2 inch


----------



## da tick 07

heres a quick pic but its FARRRR from finished


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

I like the white and purple thing.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *XedLos*


1/2 inch. I was thinking of going 3/4 but just went 1/2 inch


1/2 ID or OD?


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated.

I like the white and purple thing.









1/2 ID or OD?


i would say ID


----------



## SimpleTech

Radiator: XSPC RX480 w/ Scythe GT 1850
CPU block: Heatkiller LT
GPU block: EK-FC5870-Nickel
Pump: Laing DDC-3.2 w/ XSPC Reservoir Top


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


i would say ID


but he was talking about 3/4" tubing an there is not 3/4" ID is there? Also, it looks too narrow for 1/2" ID.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Pretty slick, SimpleTech, added to the club. Going to powder coat it anytime soon?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*


added to the club


of course he was, that's why I said updated.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*


Pretty slick, SimpleTech, added to the club. Going to powder coat it anytime soon?


Thanks.

I might as I do have a local shop that does powder coatings but I'll have to get a estimate first. Strangely enough, I want mine in pure white. I don't mind black, but white just adds that "wow" factor sometimes.

I think I might want to sleeve my PSU cables too. He he.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


I think I might want to sleeve my PSU cables too. He he.










you def should, it adds to the look so much.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


I might as I do have a local shop that does powder coatings but I'll have to get a estimate first. Strangely enough, I want mine in pure white. I don't mind black, but white just adds that "wow" factor sometimes.

I think I might want to sleeve my PSU cables too. He he.










Yep, I agree. When sleeving the cables, also see about sleeving your tubing, it's really striking sometimes.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


of course he was, that's why I said updated. 


I'm afraid I don't follow...


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*


When sleeving the cables, also see about sleeving your tubing, it's really striking sometimes.


I think I will just get some plain color tubing as I'm getting down to my last yard or two.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

but he was talking about 3/4" tubing an there is not 3/4" ID is there? Also, it looks too narrow for 1/2" ID.


1/2" ID is 3/4" OD


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*


I'm afraid I don't follow...










I am the one who is confused. 

Why did you say he was added to the club?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


1/2" ID is 3/4" OD


it can be, but 3/8 ID and 1/4 ID both come in 1/2 OD.

they all come in different wall thicknesses.

My 3/8 ID is 5/8 OD.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


I think I will just get some plain color tubing as I'm getting down to my last yard or two.


That's good, too. It's also nice to use colors that contrast well, so you could try white tubing on the white powder coat, and black cabling, maybe?


----------



## triggs75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


heres a quick pic but its FARRRR from finished










Nice setup. Question on your CPU block. It looks like an alphacool block, but my question is why set it sideways, why not set it up and down, just so the tubes do not look like one going back to your res? Or is this the reason you set the block that way.

That is the only reason why I do not like bay reservoirs as they make all the tubing go in one direction.

But still looks great and can't wait to see the finished product.

Chad


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp* 
That's good, too. It's also nice to use colors that contrast well, so you could try white tubing on the white powder coat, and black cabling, maybe?

Oh yeah *bonks head*. Black tubing would look good. I think I was having a "white" moment there.









Too bad motherboards are made with a white PCB. _*drools*_


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
Nice setup. Question on your CPU block. It looks like an alphacool block, but my question is why set it sideways, why not set it up and down, just so the tubes do not look like one going back to your res? Or is this the reason you set the block that way.

That is the only reason why I do not like bay reservoirs as they make all the tubing go in one direction.

But still looks great and can't wait to see the finished product.

Chad

i guess its suppose to be like that for socket 775 but the other way for 1366. i doubt itll make to much of a difference but i like it like that because its a very clean setup. i dont like how people have tubing running all over the place

the psu cables are all over the place because im getting a new psu soon so i didnt want to do cable management for that stuff


----------



## triggs75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *da tick 07* 
i guess its suppose to be like that for socket 775 but the other way for 1366. i doubt itll make to much of a difference but i like it like that because its a very clean setup. i dont like how people have tubing running all over the place

the psu cables are all over the place because im getting a new psu soon so i didnt want to do cable management for that stuff

Makes perfect sense then. Again great setup and cannot wait to see it complete.

Chad


----------



## XedLos

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

1/2 ID or OD?

its 1/2 OD


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XedLos*


its 1/2 OD


whats the ID then?


----------



## XedLos

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


whats the id then?


3/8


----------



## FragaGeddon




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Syrillian

A blast from the past: My previous Rig.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

that thing is pretty intense looking, nice work.

updated.


----------



## davidm71

Anyone have any mod ideas to take it further? Cheap mod ideas. ...

Here's my Rig in its latest incarnation:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

as for mod ideas, get a dremel and hide that ball of cables.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated.

as for mod ideas, get a dremel and hide that ball of cables. 


indeed, thats the only thing i would improve, its looking pretty awsome


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

as for mod ideas, get a dremel and hide that ball of cables. 

Actually I have tried to route the video card cables from under the motherboard tray. The problem is that psu is a PC Power Cooling 1200 Watt and its cables are really not too flexible. Right now their coming out of the underside of the motherboard tray and they stick out when plugged into the 285s. Wish that the power plugs were on the side of the video card so it would look clean.

What you see on the bottom of the case are a ball of unused cables that have been pulled out and wrapped onto the backside of the motherboard tray but its not a modular psu so I still get some of them showing. The only cable I dont have tucked is the 24 pin power plug. Its a bit bulky and hard to bend. And then theres some tygon tubing from my drain rolled into a ball on the bottom of the case. Guess I could use some zip ties to tighten the 6 pin cables some.

Thanks.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

If you don't mind voiding your warranty you could remove the unused leads...


----------



## masonkian

just fitted a ek-vga supreme on HD4890 temps idle 27 degress cels ,load 37
















[/IMG]








[/IMG]


----------



## weeble

Antec 900 Internal watercooling dual rad mounted upfron eksupreme lt with ek s-max NB on an asus maximus formula ek 250 multioption res with a DD cpx-pro pump


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

hey weeble, welcome to OCN! glad to have your first post. ;-) you should go to User CP> Add System and fill out your full system specs.


----------



## MeeksMan13

After a month and a half of shipping issues with my t-virus res and 2 months of sitting around for my parts, the reservoir should finally be here today and I should have my WC loop up by the end of the night (after work maybe)


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Syrillian........ you just HAD to come on here and make us all look like chumps with your GODLY custom case skillzzzz


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
If you don't mind voiding your warranty you could remove the unused leads...

I'll pass on that idea. Stick with zipties for now. I may need eight pin power connectors one day...

Side note: Would have given anything to have had an Enermax Modular PSU in there. Hate the PC Power Cooling cables. They're so stone age as far as psu's are concerned these days. Stupid Evga Classified PSU compatibility thingy...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *davidm71*


Stupid Evga Classified PSU compatibility thingy...


?

what do you mean?


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
?

what do you mean?

My first choice of psu was the Enermax 1200 galaxy evo modular. Unfortunately the initial releases of the evga classified 759 limited edition boards had a timing problem with posting with certain modern psu's. Such that the board would only post rarely and shut down after hitting the power on. So I had to return the galaxy at a 10% restock fee. Kind of sucked but what can you do. No problems with the Pc Power and Cooling Psu though I think they're over rated. Had one cause shut down problems on another older system during gaming randomly for years until I upgraded that particular machine to the corsair hx1000. Love that psu!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *davidm71*


My first choice of psu was the Enermax 1200 galaxy evo modular. Unfortunately the initial releases of the evga classified 759 limited edition boards had a timing problem with posting with certain modern psu's. Such that the board would only post rarely and shut down after hitting the power on. !


That is called Cold Boot problem. I had 3 of the same Antec Quattro 1000Watt PSUs and all 3 had that same problem on my BloodRage. My Enermax Evo is perfectly fine.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *weeble*


Antec 900 Internal watercooling dual rad mounted upfron eksupreme lt with ek s-max NB on an asus maximus formula ek 250 multioption res with a DD cpx-pro pump


Nicely done with the res mounting. looks great


----------



## MeeksMan13

Here it is, finally finished:


----------



## rodolfinho87

Hi guys.. Im new, from Argentina!
My rig:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I got the rest of my parts!!!!!!!

































































































































































































I realized I had a small problem here though:



















Evidently 3/8" ID 5/8" OD compressions do not fit on a HeatKiller 3.0...

I had heard that about 1/2" ID compressions, but thought 3/8" ID where ok.

I ordered one of these to fix it though:


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


I got the rest of my parts!!!!!!!



























































nice man, it all looks good. Don't the black matte fittings look amazing!


----------



## FalloutBoy

Stop taking pics of parts and put it together!! I mean the pics are great but come on... the suspence!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*


Stop taking pics of parts and put it together!! I mean the pics are great but come on... the suspence!










haha, it's hurting me even more, i wanna put it together so bad, but I cant until i get my backplate back from RMA and i get that 45 degree angle adapter so that I can fit two compressions next to each other on the CPU block. (also need to pick up some distilled water)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, it's hurting me even more, i wanna put it together so bad, but I cant until i get my backplate back from RMA and i get that 45 degree angle adapter so that I can fit two compressions next to each other on the CPU block. (also need to pick up some distilled water)

Meh, just grab a bottle of water from the dairy some time







(wait, do you guys call them dairies? maybe corner shops? idk







)


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
(wait, do you guys call them dairies? maybe corner shops? idk







)

Yep, dairies (for milk, anyway). Just that it's hard to find a good local one.

Also, those black compression fittings up there are just EPIC. I can't imagine how much better looking they are in person.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

@ rodolf, nice rig







i like the green and black









cool stuff kevin, cant wait to see it all up and running


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

I actually forgot to mention something...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


Evidently 3/8" ID 5/8" OD compressions do not fit on a HeatKiller 3.0...

I had heard that about 1/2" ID compressions, but thought 3/8" ID where ok.


3/8"ID 1/2"OD is the biggest you can do without using rotaries.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*


I actually forgot to mention something...

3/8"ID 1/2"OD is the biggest you can do without using rotaries.



haha, thanks, but i kinda figured that out now...









oh well, lesson learned.


----------



## hy897t

Hey Kevin is you have a Kroger near you (Which I believe they have in VA) just pick a gallon of distilled water there thats what I did it is like a buck.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS*


Hey Kevin is you have a Kroger near you (Which I believe they have in VA) just pick a gallon of distilled water there thats what I did it is like a buck.


oh, yea, i was just gonna pick some up at walmart.


----------



## niallm1

Dumb question but what's the best case for liquid cooling? For multiple loop setups?


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *niallm1* 
Dumb question but what's the best case for liquid cooling? For multiple loop setups?

probably TJ07 or that corsair case
edit: unless you get one of those huge cube things like the mountain mod cases


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

depends on how you want your watercooling, how big you want it etc.
I could fit my watercooling inside my CM690, i could fit it outside too. Now ive got the ATCS 840 and ive got it internally again. And a lot of space left... You could even mount a 480 rad inside... (for 90%, without any cutting as far as i know)


----------



## catmmm

Here is my rig

















I know it looks sweet


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catmmm* 
Here is my rig








http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/...94da7cfe_b.jpg

I know it looks sweet









It looks sweet indeed








gotta love to have access to all your parts so easy...xD


----------



## hy897t

That white tubing is really starting to look better and better


----------



## Drug

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I got the rest of my parts!!!!!!!

































































































































































































I realized I had a small problem here though:



















Evidently 3/8" ID 5/8" OD compressions do not fit on a HeatKiller 3.0...

I had heard that about 1/2" ID compressions, but thought 3/8" ID where ok.

I ordered one of these to fix it though:










They do fit, but u need a 45 degree fitting on one







, try it hehe


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drug* 
They do fit, but u need a 45 degree fitting on one







, try it hehe









that would be why i ordered a 45 degree fitting...

oh, and please, if you are gonna quote a post like that, delete the extra pictures from it.


----------



## Gill..

I just finished my build log out in the general section fellow watercoolers....I hope you enjoy - here's a couple of my highlight pictures!

2 Loops 1 thread



















COMPLETELY CUSTOM BUILT FOR MY DAUGHTER!









2 Dangerden CPU blocks
2 240 rads
1 3 bay CyberDruid Waterfall rez
1 1 bay rez
1 Dangerden pump, 1 Laing non-vario


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

mabey you guys can help... wich side is the inlet and outlet on my res. as i have it the water flows up the pipe and out the other barb, and i dont think its right because im not getting too much flow.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I just noticed i forgot to add catmmm in the last update! sorry about that!

@ dan try both ways, I don't think it should reall matter to much though. if you have poor flow it is from high restriction elsewhere in your loop.


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I just noticed i forgot to add catmmm in the last update! sorry about that!

@ dan try both ways, I don't think it should reall matter to much though. if you have poor flow it is from high restriction elsewhere in your loop.

thanks kev but i got her all sorted out now. Ive got two rigs wc'ing setups to post up later


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan* 
thanks kev but i got her all sorted out now. Ive got two rigs wc'ing setups to post up later

awesome, i'm looking foward to it


----------



## Mr_Nibbles

Here is my loop. And yes, the color came out green with Pentosin G11.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Scart

i am meant to post some pics to join the club so..
water cooling is amazing but living in australia in this damned heat i'm still struggling unless i have the air con on..

either way.. i was on like 46C idle now.. 36-39C idle.. depends.. but when under load it comes into play with.. 51C max.. prime95.. etc. i always wonder if when i clamped the h50 down it is not sitting flat. i used pressure mod.

temp on desk is showing chipset temp, top reading

h50 is. in front.. where DVD cage goes... push/pull. sucking in.. i did notice striaght away video card was hotter. but my old card i am using atm was never a hot running card. got a Scythe Ultra Kaze ordred..

PS: i've got a oil cooler in the shed i always wondered if that would work it aluminimum. and i got two radiator elec fans.. wondered if one of side door be. dramatic


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Scart* 

PS: i've got a oil cooler in the shed i always wondered if that would work it aluminimum. and i got two radiator elec fans.. wondered if one of side door be. dramatic


















what kind of keyboard is that? do you like it?


----------



## allenkane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


what kind of keyboard is that? do you like it?


Looks like a Saitek Eclipse 2


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Scart*


i am meant to post some pics to join the club so..

...











hey, can you do me a favor and post a pic that actually has your H50 in it before I add you? I did just say you needed a pic, but it needs to be a pic of your Water cooling setup, not just of your computer.


----------



## Scart

yea its a Saitek Eclipse 2 (best keyboard ever me thinks.. if u like mechanical feel)

here u go boss. such crap quailty pic but u can sorta see it..


----------



## snow cakes

kevingreenbmx, do you mind giving me the link to where you bought your sleeving kit? thanks m8


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *snow cakes*


kevingreenbmx, do you mind giving me the link to where you bought your sleeving kit? thanks m8


mdpc-x.com for color selections
murdermod.com for black only


----------



## Dayreon

I'm new!

Swiftech Apogee XT
Swiftech MCR320 w/ 3xScythe Kaze Jyuni
Swiftech MCW60


----------



## Mygaffer

Please include me. I just bought the Corsair H50 since Fry's had is on sale for $49.99. I'm going to put it in a new build I'm working on based around a Core i7 920. Depending on how I like it I might do a custom loop in the future.


----------



## damtachoa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dayreon* 









Very nice. Do you plan to put Koolance MB-ASM3F on that board?


----------



## Dayreon

I was actually looking at that today. What're your thoughts on it? Worth it? I think I'd pick it up just to add more red tubing in there, to be honest.







Might as well pimp this board out to the Maximu..s.. lawl.


----------



## niallm1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catmmm* 
Here is my rig

















I know it looks sweet









Yes it does!

Thanks for help on best cases for water cooling. TJ07 looks really nice. Hmm...Looks like I'll need a bigger room







!


----------



## niallm1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dayreon* 
I was actually looking at that today. What're your thoughts on it? Worth it? I think I'd pick it up just to add more red tubing in there, to be honest.







Might as well pimp this board out to the Maximu..s.. lawl.

You also have the option of this http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek...al-nickel.html or http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek...la-nickel.html. There readily available in most countries and if not you can buy direct from EK themselves.


----------



## niallm1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *niallm1* 
You also have the option of this http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek...al-nickel.html or http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek...la-nickel.html. There readily available in most countries and if not you can buy direct from EK themselves.

On second though the Koolance is much better looking and will blend into the chrome look on the Maximus III as well as you CPU block. Cheaper than the EK too.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

and an update on my rig: I am leak testing right now







so far so good. pics coming shortly.


----------



## Villosa

Updated. Check log for more pictures.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

here is my loop assembled at last!








:
































































I can finally feel like i belong in my own tread...

I am leak testing now. i will re-assemble everything else the day after next if everything is good.









here is a quick pic of what i am using to power the pump while leak testing







:


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
here is my loop assembled at last!







:

I can finally feel like i belong in my own tread...

I am leak testing now. i will re-assemble everything else the day after next if everything is good.









Do you really misss H50? Ha!, I just kiddo..

Congrats! WELCOME TO THE REAL WC LOOOP FAMILY.. Your WC rig looks more sexy then H50!!

I hope you really enjoy with your new loop in rig.. and Good Luck!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I don't see how that Bitspower res works sideways














why didn't u get the XSPC bay res?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Do you really misss H50? Ha!, I just kiddo..

Congrats! WELCOME TO THE REAL WC LOOOP FAMILY.. Your WC rig looks more sexy then H50!!

I hope you really enjoy with your new loop in rig.. and Good Luck!

haha, no I will not miss my H50 and I will miss the annoyingly loud delta fan even less.

And thanks for the welcome. ;-)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 





















I don't see how that Bitspower res works sideways














why didn't u get the XSPC bay res?

Why would it not work sideways? as long as you get all the air out it is fine.

It does make bleeding the loop a bit annoying, but not really difficult...

I only got that as a temporary solution until i can get my second loop and a T-virus res from Frozen-Q.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, no I will not miss my H50 and I will miss the annoyingly loud delta fan even less.

And thanks for the welcome. ;-)

Why would it not work sideways? as long as you get all the air out it is fine.

It does make bleeding the loop a bit annoying, but not really difficult...

I only got that as a temporary solution until i can get my second loop and a T-virus res from Frozen-Q.

T-Virus res has been discontinued









Liquid Fusion is still available and its similar, but the T-Virus isn't made anymore :/


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DaClownie* 
T-Virus res has been discontinued









Liquid Fusion is still available and its similar, but the T-Virus isn't made anymore :/

I talked to Frozen-Q, he said he would make me whatever I wanted for Classy.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

cool story bro! now water cool that itx or w/e it is. I'm sure it must get hot as all hell







with that itx i7


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
cool story bro! now water cool that itx or w/e it is. I'm sure it must get hot as all hell







with that itx i7









haha, i wish it was a little I7 beast. It is some 600mhz via chip based thing that has integrated graphics that can barely play Starcraft


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I talked to Frozen-Q, he said he would make me whatever I wanted for Classy.

Any reason you want to get the original instead of the inverse t-virus?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
Any reason you want to get the original instead of the inverse t-virus?

TBH i have not looked at what the differences between all of them are.

It will be a while before I order one anyway.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
TBH i have not looked at what the differences between all of them are.

It will be a while before I order one anyway.

I gotcha. The difference is pretty simple iirc, the original had the coolant inside the helices, while the inverse t-virus has it outside of the helices. I think the original is more fragile


----------



## jirapanpoo

*My PC*


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jirapanpoo* 
*My PC*











One of the few rigs that has made me exclaim out loud. My first words were 'Dude that's cool!'

Fricking hot stuff!


----------



## MADMAX22

That is nice, looks like it should be on a spaceship slowly killing off all living organisms aboard.


----------



## Messymitch503

Wow, Jirapanpoo! Very smooth


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

New award created for jirapanpoo. ;-)


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

No more SLI action for me



































.... but waiting for Fermi























































sorry for the blurred images, I didn't bother with using a stand or tripod, just my good ol hands


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

@ meeksman and evgaftw, awsome rigs guys!!


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
@ meeksman and evgaftw, awsome rigs guys!!

thanks man







I have plans for it in the future when I redo my loop but for right now i'm happy with it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

and a sad update on Classy:

I got done with about 33 hours of leak testing without any leaks so I decided it was time to put everything all the way back together and boot it up to see what kind of temps i was getting.

so, I un-plugged the pump from the PSU i was using to power it during the test, and as soon as i did the top to the reservoir started dripping water...

Since then i made a trip to the hardware store to get some teflon tape and some silicone caulk. Hopefully i will not have any more trouble...

It really bummed me out though... :-(


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

and a sad update on Classy:

I got done with about 33 hours of leak testing without any leaks so I decided it was time to put everything all the way back together and boot it up to see what kind of temps i was getting.

so, I un-plugged the pump from the PSU i was using to power it during the test, and as soon as i did the top to the reservoir started dripping water...

Since then i made a trip to the hardware store to get some teflon tape and some silicone caulk. Hopefully i will not have any more trouble...

It really bummed me out though... :-(

Set the pump right side up then, not sideways. Or set it on top of a dvd drive or something.


----------



## konkhra

Lol, taking me months to learn from you guys and few others but this is it...









I7 920 D0 oc'd 3.8 Apogee Xt wb
Evga Classified mobo (760) Ek wb
Evga Gtx 285 Ssc Ek wb x2 @stock
6gb Crucial Ballistix Tracers @stock
Xspc bay w/ 2 Mcp-350's
1 Black Ice Gtx 120 rad(cpu/mobo loop)
1 Black Ice Gtx 240 rad(video card loop)
Abs Tagan 1100w psu
Cm Stacker 830

All work done myself...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Set the pump right side up then, not sideways. Or set it on top of a dvd drive or something.

The problem with having it right side up is that It gets a vortex thing going on and sucks any air at the top of the res through the pump...


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jirapanpoo* 
*My PC*

































what lcd bay drive is that?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey, please do not quote that many pictures...

delete out all the code except for the pic you are referring to.


----------



## Villosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jirapanpoo* 
*My PC*

































Nice rig and setup!


----------



## Dayreon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *phaseshift* 
what lcd bay drive is that?

that's the ASUS ROG O.C. Station. I want one, but they're $150.









alsos: no CD drive?


----------



## reberto

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dayreon* 
that's the ASUS ROG O.C. Station. I want one, but they're $150.









*alsos: no CD drive?*

It's all about the external drives man


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reberto* 
It's all about the external drives man









only if you paint it to match your case;]


----------



## reiben05

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reberto* 
It's all about the external drives man









how good are external drives?? my 5"25bay are fully occupied like urs too.. any recommendations??


----------



## krazykid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jirapanpoo* 









Whats the point of a top and bottom gpu block? How does the one on the back of the PCB do anything? Or did you just cover the entire surface with thermal padding?

Whats the temps, GPU, Mem and ambiant for with the cards like that?

Sick A55 rig btw man!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *krazykid* 
Whats the point of a top and bottom gpu block? How does the one on the back of the PCB do anything? Or did you just cover the entire surface with thermal padding?

Whats the temps, GPU, Mem and ambiant for with the cards like that?

Sick A55 rig btw man!

I don't know for sure but I expect that it would simply keep the other side of the gpu cool as well. It can get pretty hot on the top of the pcb sometimes. I also expect it would even the weight out a little more too. Having a big heavy block on the bottom of the card can bend the crap out of them so having another heavy block on top might counter-balance/sandwich the card nicely. I'm not too sure.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

maybe it cools ram thats on the other side of the pcb... i dont know


----------



## kevingreenbmx

They are for cooling the RAM.


----------



## mfb412

can anyone draw a flow diagram? i am completely confused on how water flows through those waterblocks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
can anyone draw a flow diagram? i am completely confused on how water flows through those waterblocks

they are in parallel, the water splits and goes through all of them at the same time.


----------



## mfb412

ohh.
interesting, 'spose it takes a lot of pump power


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *konkhra* 
Lol, taking me months to learn from you guys and few others but this is it...









I7 920 D0 oc'd 3.8 Apogee Xt wb
Evga Classified mobo (760) Ek wb
Evga Gtx 285 Ssc Ek wb x2 @stock
6gb Crucial Ballistix Tracers @stock
Xspc bay w/ 2 Mcp-350's
1 Black Ice Gtx 120 rad(cpu/mobo loop)
1 Black Ice Gtx 240 rad(video card loop)
Abs Tagan 1100w psu
Cm Stacker 830

All work done myself...

I wondering if you did upgrade from H50 to the real loop, dont you?

Anyway nice rig & hop up there!


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
can anyone draw a flow diagram? i am completely confused on how water flows through those waterblocks

best i can find
http://wpcontent.answers.com/wikiped...l_details2.jpg


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
One of the few rigs that has made me exclaim out loud. My first words were 'Dude that's cool!'

Fricking hot stuff!

is that an ek reservoir?


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
can anyone draw a flow diagram? i am completely confused on how water flows through those waterblocks

Flow designer


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
can anyone draw a flow diagram? i am completely confused on how water flows through those waterblocks

The best way is to look at a plexi water block like this:









Now if you stack these you can connect all the inlets together and all the outlets together so they flow in parallel like KGB said. Takes a lot of pumping power thus the dual D5s.

What surprizes me is he is cooling all that with essentially a GTS480 in pull. Even with deltas I don't see him ocing very high, but I guess with a rig that sweet you don't have to


----------



## amanaman

bump


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *amanaman* 
bump

lol, why bump an active thread?

thanks for joining though. ;-)


----------



## Tiger S.

I have a 1/2" loop and the stock NB block on this x58a is 3/8" id. I have some 1/2" to 3/8" converters, ties and tubing.. Is there anything I need to know before adding these to the loop? You can see the block capped in the bottom of the picture. Thanks


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tiger S.*


I have a 1/2" loop and the stock NB block on this x58a is 3/8" id. I have some 1/2" to 3/8" converters, ties and tubing.. Is there anything I need to know before adding these to the loop? You can see the block capped in the bottom of the picture. Thanks











sorry to quote a big pic but doesnt it look like the thumbscrews on the cpu block thread should be screwed down more?


----------



## Witchdoctor

Here are a couple of my water cooling systems


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor*


Here are a couple of my water cooling systems


what is that 2nd case?


----------



## Witchdoctor

From the right or left ?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor*


From the right or left ?


 the one with the 4 fans attached to that metal sheet


----------



## Witchdoctor

Here is a better pic


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor* 
Here is a better pic

are you seriously running like 4 radiators to cool your cpu?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *da tick 07* 
are you seriously running like 4 radiators to cool your cpu?

I count 2, A 480mm and a 240mm

______________________________

updated.

__________________________________


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I count 2, A 480mm and a 240mm

i was assuming that there were more because all the holes in the base


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *da tick 07* 
i was assuming that there were more because all the holes in the base

maybe, I just figured they where to balance the airflow.


----------



## identitycrisis

Heres my new setup:

BIX240
2x Panaflows (Really Loud)
Dtek Custom V1 Block w/ quick mount hardware
MCP355
XSPC Res Top

Here are some pics not as fancy as some, but I like it except for the noise... not sure about the temps either yet.

Modded the case, cut it, and cut lots of holes in the motherboard tray for wiring routing.

Yeah, fans are dusty, I got lazy towards the end. LOL


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## identitycrisis

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

Cool, thanks, never thought Id actually pull the trigger and do it, Im happy i did, but I need to do something about the fans, theyre soooooooo loud


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *identitycrisis* 
Cool, thanks, never thought Id actually pull the trigger and do it, Im happy i did, but I need to do something about the fans, theyre soooooooo loud

fan controller?

what fans did you get?


----------



## identitycrisis

I know I need a controller, trying to buy a house and holding onto my money as best as I can until after we find a place. lol

They're beefy panaflow, 110cfm or something. They're also thick like 38mm or something I bought em used here on OCN, but he parted the fan controller before I could get at it.

I have a fan controller from an old koolance wc rig I had, modded it and everything to fit in the case, but it doesnt handle the panaflows well, it only has slow medium and fast settings. Slow and medium barely make them spin, so it doesn't have the power to control them at those speeds.

It handles the standard case fans but the beefy ones dont work well.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor* 
Here are a couple of my water cooling systems

is that triport a stinger?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Who wants a MCP355 pump top? Click my sig For Sale


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Kevin, this is post #2 for me. So I recieved a new toy in the mail yesterday and spent all night installing it. Tell me what you think.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

thing is badass







love the t-virus


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
Kevin, this is post #2 for me. So I recieved a new toy in the mail yesterday and spent all night installing it. Tell me what you think.










argh, i just need one of these bad boys some day! they look too cool. congrats







and i like the set up







good job


----------



## just a noob




----------



## Bastiaan_NL

thats a classy on cardboard, awsome


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CatfishSoup

so no one laugh at my quarter inch liquid cooling rig XD its about 3 ish years old. and yes, i am in dire need of a more manlier and newer upgrade. LOL but here it is


----------



## Murderous Moppet

MCR220 Radiator
HK 3.0 CPU Block
Enzotech VGA-IS VGA Block (it was a surprise gift)
EK Multioption 100 Reservoir
MCP655/D5 Pump
Bitspower TrueSilver 1/2 Barbs
Primoflex LRT Pro Clear Tubing










In a CM690 with no top bezel. I know a dual rad isn't exactly "enough" to cool a complete CPU VPU loop, but it's doing good so far.


----------



## dido714

can i join too? ;P dont make fun of me, i got all the parts for like $100. =3
Danger Den MPC-CPU 1366, then,
Radiator CL-W0002,AquaBay M3 CL-W0031,and pump from BigWater SE CL-W0005-01
http://www.thermaltakestore.com/bigw...clw000501.html








CatfishSoup, i had that block untill i upgraded to the i7, so i know the limits of the tubing as well :/


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

You're cooling an i7 with thermaltake


























































Welcome to the club anyways


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Oh gosh... Thermaltake *shudder*

And murderous moppet, it sure as hell is enough. I was cooling a dual core AMD (1.5v going through that puppy too) and my 8800GT on a single rad for ages and had good temps. Then upgraded to a dual rad and saw a 20 degree drop. Load was about 45 degrees in-game? Now I have a Q9400 and am going to cool that and my 9800GT on the same rad.


----------



## steverebo

I think Il join as well with my liitle baby


----------



## KOBALT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dido714* 
can i join too? ;P dont make fun of me, i got all the parts for like $100. =3
Danger Den MPC-CPU 1366, then,
Radiator CL-W0002,AquaBay M3 CL-W0031,and pump from BigWater SE CL-W0005-01
http://www.thermaltakestore.com/bigw...clw000501.html








CatfishSoup, i had that block untill i upgraded to the i7, so i know the limits of the tubing as well :/


Looks nice. regardless if it's a basic Thermaltake setup, it's still better than the stock Intel cooler. Very nice looking.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dido714*


can i join too? ;P dont make fun of me, i got all the parts for like $100. =3
Danger Den MPC-CPU 1366, then,
Radiator CL-W0002,AquaBay M3 CL-W0031,and pump from BigWater SE CL-W0005-01
http://www.thermaltakestore.com/bigw...clw000501.html








CatfishSoup, i had that block untill i upgraded to the i7, so i know the limits of the tubing as well :/


I agree with post #1045's comments.









I glad to see someone set up TT WC loop & DD TDX with i7. . Therefore you are happy with it, Thats important .....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Hey guys, Pardon the grainy pics, I don't know what's up with that. I posted pics once already, but I've got some clearer ones now that I have my cathodes set up, my res all full, and most of it all tidied up

















A dead on pic

















2 lights out photos









A cool pic looking up









One of the inside with the flash on


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## mfb412

Nice going kevin, how much did you push after upgrading and how much have your temps gone down?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfb412*


Nice going kevin, how much did you push after upgrading and how much have your temps gone down?


Temps only went down about 5-10c for my processor cores, but I also have the NB, SB, NF200, and Vregs all on the same loop with only a swiftech 360mm rad.

My NB temps dropped, and get ready for this, from 90-95c to 27-32c!

My CPU temps should get better once I have my backplate and tighten the block down good. (I was afraid to tighten it too much without the backplate)

Have not Pushed my OC any farther yet because I have been folding, but we will see.


----------



## BLADEY

hey all, i set my first loop up not to long ago but took it down after a hour. and havnt touched my computer since. Also the tubing i got is utter rubbish!!!! Neoprene stuff from tygon is utter rubbish never use it.

Sorry for the bad pic, its my phone camera..










The antec P183 is so small.... But i did manage to put a 360mm rad internally 

Parts

Swiftech GTZ
MCP655
360 GTS
2 Yateloons
Koolance res


----------



## Extreme Newbie

This is my first loop but it wont be my last.



























Swiftech XT 
Swiftech MCR320 
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech Micro-Res


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BLADEY* 
hey all, i set my first loop up not to long ago but took it down after a hour. and havnt touched my computer since.

why did you take it apart after an hour? :-(

that isn't even long enough to leak test or benchmark...

------------------------

updated


----------



## BLADEY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


why did you take it apart after an hour? :-(

that isn't even long enough to leak test or benchmark...


My gt z was faulty the threading holes were to large so it leaked. Also the tubing i had was very bad, if i get another 150 bucks i might reconsider it,the annoying thing was that before i took that picture i had 2 HD 4870's on MCW60's but the tubing just wouldn't bend so i had to remove them. O well thats New Zealand for you. We suck at any good gear, always getting the **** stuff.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BLADEY* 
My gt z was faulty the threading holes were to large so it leaked. Also the tubing i had was very bad, if i get another 150 bucks i might reconsider it,the annoying thing was that before i took that picture i had 2 HD 4870's on MCW60's but the tubing just wouldn't bend so i had to remove them. O well thats New Zealand for you. We suck at any good gear, always getting the **** stuff.

I guess you've just had bad experiences. I'm in Chch and have had no troubles. Got a Zalman water block that kicks some serious ass. As for tubing, I just went and got some 1/2" stuff from Bunnings real cheap. Works a treat.


----------



## bundymania

Hi Guys,

some parts from my private collection and stuff that i used for my reviews.....enjoy



















































































































































































































































Liquid Extasy Narrow Line


----------



## bundymania

...available for just 10,90 Euro at ZERN.at - WasserkÃ¼hlung - Radiatoren - Pumpen - Cpu WasserkÃ¼hler


----------



## mfb412

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


Temps only went down about 5-10c for my processor cores, but I also have the NB, SB, NF200, and Vregs all on the same loop with only a swiftech 360mm rad.

My NB temps dropped, and get ready for this, from 90-95c to 27-32c!

My CPU temps should get better once I have my backplate and tighten the block down good. (I was afraid to tighten it too much without the backplate)

Have not Pushed my OC any farther yet because I have been folding, but we will see.


Almost reminded me of my HD 4850, when i changed from the stock cooler to the accelero, temps went from 60C at idle to 49 on full load


----------



## sil96verman

HK 3.0
D-Tek VGA GFX2
Feser 360
Noctua P12x3
MCP 655
Swiftech Micro Res.
Feser tubing









the pressure plate and grooves can be seen









kept the original heatsink for rams









the HK 3.0 is huge...touching the row of capacitors

















bleeding the bubbles










I intend to re-do loop to 
pump - block - vga - res - rads

Hope temp will improve


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## VenomIce

Nice sil96verman.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Alright guys, I have a treat for you if we can get 200 members before thursday at noon.









4 free copies of Psyconauts via steam to randomly selected members of this club.

here are the details:

http://www.overclock.net/freebies/65...syconauts.html


----------



## SickStew

Here is my set-up hope you like it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

15 to go for free games. ;-)


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SickStew* 
Here is my set-up hope you like it










Very nice setup. I do love those corsair cases, have fun with it!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Hi Guys,

some parts from my private collection and stuff that i used for my reviews.....enjoy









I feel dodgy saying this but.. you have some nice parts!


----------



## Carlitos714

here are mine

rig i build for my step-son


















my old build


















My new build (waiting on fittings, resy and tubing too arrive!)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

14 more til free games


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

14 more til free games

More like 13.5. I'll be joining soon as I take some nice pictures of April.


----------



## xquisit

Here's a real, true water-cooling setup:

I keed, I keed, but one day I will have one.. problem is the 965 + 5770s run cool already.. I can't justify $250-500 on cooling







(I need a 120Hz LCD + A700s)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carlitos714* 
here are mine

rig i build for my step-son



















Sexy build!


----------



## Carlitos714

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Sexy build!









hey man thank you.


----------



## menozcm

you can add me


----------



## bundymania

some more nice watercooling equipment









First, say hello to the Bling family



























The Bling Family strikes again








































































more pics for your entertainment :


----------



## Suit Up

I'd like to join the club









I'm using:

CPU Block: EK Supreme LT Acetal+Nickel (with backplate)
Rad: XSPC RX360
Fans: Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1150rpm x3
Pump: EK DCP 2.2
Res: EK Bay Spin Acetal
Tubing: Tygon R-3603 (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD)
Bitspower Compressiong Fittings x10
Bitspower Q-Block (for draining loop)
Bitspower Stop Fittings x2
Lamptron FC-5 Fan Controller

For more pics, I posted a worklog of my loop build here.


----------



## eppopipe

Oh man!
Bundymania is here!
Ive been watching you at xtreme for a long time!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## dimwit13

i am in the process of getting together a WC setup and have most of the parts picked out. (well rad size and rez size, i have the pump figuresd out-the 655)
it will be a 1/2" loop.

i just need to know where is the best place to buy online-western USA.
i dont mind buying from a couple places, but i dont want to buy 1 piece here and 1 piece there,etc...

EDIT:
another question-are stackable rads any good?
could i use rad-fan-rad-fan-rad-if i have good fans?
i was thinking of using 3x120mm swiftech rads

thanx

-dimwit-

i am looking forward to joining once i am up and running!!!!!!


----------



## Chilly

What's very interesting to me is the "Watercooling Kits" such as the Corsair H50.

Back in the days, when someone mentioned watercooling, they would instantly think of a custom build loop. But now with kits like the Corsair H50, the definition, in my opinion has changed.

Anyways, it's off topic I suppose, but every time I look at the watercooling set-up (With the exception of the H50) it makes me want to get my own loop too


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chilly* 
What's very interesting to me is the "Watercooling Kits" such as the Corsair H50.

Back in the days, when someone mentioned watercooling, they would instantly think of a custom build loop. But now with kits like the Corsair H50, the definition, in my opinion has changed.

Anyways, it's off topic I suppose, but every time I look at the watercooling set-up (With the exception of the H50) it makes me want to get my own loop too









a agree-if you dont add your own water-it aint watercooled-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## bundymania

OMG beware of those little fitting aliens, theyÂ´re already here and wants to rule the world


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

lmao, bitspower aliens are scaring me!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated and bundymania gets our newest award.


----------



## arbalest

Can I join, with my slightly modded H50?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

edit: 10 more to go till 200!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Can I join, with my slightly modded H50?









Looks pretty cool! If you painted over the corsair logo, I don't think it would be easy to figure out that you actually have an H50. Nice work


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chilly* 
What's very interesting to me is the "Watercooling Kits" such as the Corsair H50.

Back in the days, when someone mentioned watercooling, they would instantly think of a custom build loop. But now with kits like the Corsair H50, the definition, in my opinion has changed.

Anyways, it's off topic I suppose, but every time I look at the watercooling set-up (With the exception of the H50) it makes me want to get my own loop too









I agree to an extent. The Watercooling Kits, such as the H50 may not be the full custom build loops that alot of us have known to be defined as "Water Cooling". That said, no matter how you dice it, it's still "Water Cooling". What's interesting is that I personally, was hesitant on going to water (full custom build) and was kind of excited to see a product like the H50 come out that allowed me to get my feet wet. Now that I've been running it for a few months now and feel more at ease, I'm more apt to be doing either my own custom mods to this unit and/or even building my own custom water loop system. If it weren't for the H50 to bridge that little gap for me (and possibly others as well) I think a lot of us would still be hesitant on making the switch. Just my two cents.

ps: I'll post pics as soon as I can find my camera. Count me in soon!


----------



## smashed_99cbr

count me in...

the pic is a little old... I am on Sycthe Kaze Ultra's now... and I painted the red part on the G-card flat black...


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I agree to an extent. The Watercooling Kits, such as the H50 may not be the full custom build loops that alot of us have known to be defined as "Water Cooling". That said, no matter how you dice it, it's still "Water Cooling". What's interesting is that I personally, was hesitant on going to water (full custom build) and was kind of excited to see a product like the H50 come out that allowed me to get my feet wet. Now that I've been running it for a few months now and feel more at ease, I'm more apt to doing either custom mods to this unit and/or even building my own custom loop system. If it weren't for the H50 to bridge that little gap for (and possibly others as well) I think a lot of us would still be hesitant on making the switch. Just my two cents.

+1 -- That is exactly why I got it. I've always wanted watercooling, but it used to be soooo expensive to even enter watercooling, but with the H50 it was easier to enter and see the benefits, and learn a little more about watercooling in general and how it functions. -- I will probably keep my modded H50 until I build a whole new system/case. The possibilities for semi-custom watercooling w/ the H50 are abundant









http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8301891

What I did ^^


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I agree to an extent. The Watercooling Kits, such as the H50 may not be the full custom build loops that alot of us have known to be defined as "Water Cooling". That said, no matter how you dice it, it's still "Water Cooling". What's interesting is that I personally, was hesitant on going to water (full custom build) and was kind of excited to see a product like the H50 come out that allowed me to get my feet wet. Now that I've been running it for a few months now and feel more at ease, I'm more apt to be doing either my own custom mods to this unit and/or even building my own custom water loop system. If it weren't for the H50 to bridge that little gap for me (and possibly others as well) I think a lot of us would still be hesitant on making the switch. Just my two cents.

ps: I'll post pics as soon as I can find my camera. Count me in soon!









I got thrown straight into the deep end (lol) because the second system I had was a custom watercooled rig, built for me by my boyfriend, so I was able to learn straight out, with all the help I could ever have asked for! Not everyone is lucky enough to know someone that has had many many years of experience with watercooling, so it can seem pretty daunting to launch straight into a fully custom loop. Even though I'm not a fan of the kit loops, they're still a huge help for people who haven't got that hands on support, so they can start out slowly and comfortably and progress from there.


----------



## keitare

Count me in

Just got my new rig together.

Intel core i7 920
EVGA E-758-TR
Corsair XMS 6gb ddr3 1600mhz 8-8-8-24
EVGA GTX 260 c216 (soon to be 2 XFX GTX 285's with DD waterblocks on monday)
Intel X-25m G2 80GB
2 WD 640gb Black in raid 0
Antec EA-750
HAF-932

Watercooling gear

Swiftech Apogee GTX
GTX 360 Rad
3x Panaflo High Speed (had six to do push-pull but wouldn't fit in the case will be switching in 6 yate loon high speed fans)
Swiftech Micro res v2
Laing D5 non-vario
Danger Den Fill port


----------



## xquisit

ISO: More members


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## bundymania

Alphacool Yellowstone @EVGA X58 SLI LE


----------



## kevingreenbmx

dang dude, how many times you gonna make me update your entry. 

you are one lucky man to have all those parts.

keep them coming. ;-)

updated.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Alphacool Yellowstone @EVGA X58 SLI LE









You take some amazing pictures.


----------



## bundymania

Thanks again - Maybe itÂ´s interesting for some guys: iÂ´m using a "Point & Click" Canon Ixus 70 Cam, macro modus, ISO80 Setting and some cheap photo lights + tripod


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

hey, you wouldn't happen to have some GTX 280 blocks laying around that i could have would you? ;-)


----------



## FalloutBoy

I finally finished my April build so here she is.

But first a list of my parts.

Loop One -

- CPU Block - EK Supreme LT (Nickel)
- Motherboard Block - Koolance Classified Water Blocks (MBEVX58CF)
- Radiator - EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360)
- Pump - Swiftech MCP655-B
- Pump Top - EK-D5 X-TOP - Acetal G1/4 Rev.2
- Reservoir - Bitspower 5.25 Bay Reservoir

Loop Two -

- Video Card Block - EK-FC295 GTX (Nickel)
- Radiator - EK-CoolStream RAD XT (240)
- Pump - Swiftech MCP655
- Pump Top - EK-D5 X-TOP - Acetal G1/4 Rev.2
- Reservoir - EK-Multioption 150 Rev.2

Misc -

- Tubing - Tygon R-3603 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD
- Coolant - Feser One UV Red Coolant
- Fittings - All Bitspower Silver Shining 1/2" Barbs

Now the good part.


























































































































































Not bad for my first crack at water cooling hey.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

glad to see you are finaly here.









updated

oh, btw, you need to paint your graphics card shield.  (just noticed it was not red like your slot covers)


----------



## bundymania

an older rig from me - i was on that "uv trip" 2006


















Alphacool Yellowstone Collection:













































































































Little Devil


----------



## Ziox

I think ill tag along, I dont think iv posted yet.

Loop 1:
D-tek v1 with custom mounting hardware from nafljhy
Swiftech D5 Vario pump
GTX360 rad with 5 Ultra Kaze 3000rpm
Swiftech Fillport

Loop 2
2x mcw60
BIX 240 with passive cooling
Corsair D4 pump
Swiftech Fillport

All 7/16th tubing




























Btw I might be reposting here in a month or two because I might be building a wc setup with 2 rads that came from a AC condensing unit, If thats ok?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy* 
I finally finished my April build so here she is.

But first a list of my parts.

Loop One -

- CPU Block - EK Supreme LT (Nickel)
- Motherboard Block - Koolance Classified Water Blocks (MBEVX58CF)
- Radiator - EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360)
- Pump - Swiftech MCP655-B
- Pump Top - EK-D5 X-TOP - Acetal G1/4 Rev.2
- Reservoir - Bitspower 5.25 Bay Reservoir

Loop Two -

- Video Card Block - EK-FC295 GTX (Nickel)
- Radiator - EK-CoolStream RAD XT (240)
- Pump - Swiftech MCP655
- Pump Top - EK-D5 X-TOP - Acetal G1/4 Rev.2
- Reservoir - EK-Multioption 150 Rev.2

Misc -

- Tubing - Tygon R-3603 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD
- Coolant - Feser One UV Red Coolant
- Fittings - All Bitspower Silver Shining 1/2" Barbs

Not bad for my first crack at water cooling hey.









Very nice build. I would paid that graphics card shield though, looks out of place being silver.


----------



## xquisit

Amazing setups!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ziox* 
Btw I might be reposting here in a month or two because I might be building a wc setup with 2 rads that came from a AC condensing unit, If thats ok?

perfectly fine.









Just remind me in the post that it is your second entry so I can add it next to your first in the list.

updated.


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
glad to see you are finaly here.









updated

oh, btw, you need to paint your graphics card shield.  (just noticed it was not red like your slot covers)


Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Very nice build. I would paid that graphics card shield though, looks out of place being silver.









Don't know if I will now or not. If I was going to though, it would be black so the normal covers are red with black screws and that shield would be black with red screws.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy* 
Don't know if I will now or not. If I was going to though, it would be black so the normal covers are red with black screws and that shield would be black with red screws.









nah, do it the same as the others.

I would like your idea if you had two cards and they were two slots apart so it was a pattern, but it will look odd with just the one card.


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
nah, do it the same as the others.

I would like your idea if you had two cards and they were two slots apart so it was a pattern, but it will look odd with just the one card.

When I planned it I was going to have 2 cards.









Thanks for opening a wound.

EDIT - My post count is now the same as my video card!


----------



## Marauder_IIc

FALLOUT
OMG man, that system is a work of art! Nothing else needs said, that is one of the most clean loops I have seen, cable management is about as perfect as it gets. Geeze buddy, glad to see its done, and turned out so well.

I updated mine today as well


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy* 

EDIT - My post count is now the same as my video card!









GRATS!! 295's are awesome, no matter how you get them.


----------



## carrion

Mine setup.. go for 200 members!




























Pump + Res : Koolance PMP-400, XSPC Acrylic Res.
Radiators : XSPC RS240 - XSPC RS120 - HWLabs GTX120
Blocks : koolance CPU-350 - 2xGPU-200 (one over X58 and one over GPU)


----------



## sexybastard

very nice carrion! i like the color theme.

---

here are pics of my h50 thats been modded with a reservoir. I was thinking of adding a bigger 120mm radiator but then I figured if I am going to get a res and a different radiator might as well make the jump into full watercooling. I plan to do that sometime in the future but right now I am very happy with my temps and also how small and easy to manage this setup in a case that's as small as mine. But I am going to try build a cheap loop by buying used parts that still offer great performance. Maybe acquire all the parts over a few months while trying to keep the total cost under $100 with at least a 240mm radiator.

any way here are some pics my setup.


----------



## Black Magix

Res: Danger Den 5.25' res
Pump: D4
Res: Swiftech 360.


----------



## bundymania

@carrion: I like the UV Fan Grill, sweeeet



























THX @ Watercooling enthusiast?s portal and store














































new Versions of Alphacool Livingstone !


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

need 3 more people in the next 1.5 hours if yall want some free games. ;-)


----------



## bundymania

iÂ´ll try to organize them


----------



## Naz

Here's mine:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

1 hour left


----------



## GoZoU

Hi Bundy, nice to meet you in this forums









Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 CU









Phobya G-Changer 360









TFC XChanger 480









Swiftech MCP355 (Laing DDC 1+)









AquaComputer Aquacover









EK Multioption RES250


















MfG
GoZoU


----------



## Insertcity

Heatkiller 3.0
XSPC RX360
Aquastream XT Ultra
Aquacomputer Aquagratix HD4850
Aquaero 4.0
Danger Dan Tube UV Orange
Noisblocker Multiframe S2


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

goal of 200 reached!

congrats guys we now have 200 members!

anyone else can join before 12:00 noon eastern time if you want a chance to win 1 of 4 copies of Psyconauts. ;-)


----------



## bundymania

Hello german friends in this thread











































Banchetto 101:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey bundy, you know you only get one entry into the drawing right? 

updated


----------



## bundymania

What ? IÂ´m here to win a new 50" Pioneer Plasma TV and a brandnew Hummer !






























































Liquid Extasy Narrow Line


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Losmile

This is my Picturemachine cooled by Water:

*Build startet @19th October 2009*

Xigmatek [email protected]@full Leather [email protected] Front
i7 [email protected],[email protected] Supreme LT
[email protected] Water Blocks EK-FC275 GTX PCB - Acetal
Gigabyte P55 UD4
8gb Corsair XMS3 1600
2x 240 Aquacomputer 240 [email protected] Noiseblocker [email protected]
1x 120 Aquacomputer 120 [email protected] Noiseblocker [email protected]
1x 500gb Seagate .12
2x 1TB Seagate .12
1x DVD RW

*Now:*
































































*3 Days ago:*


























[/IMG]










*1 Week ago:*





































*At the beginning:*










Hope you like those Fotos.

Have a nice day.

By


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Losmile* 
This is my Picturemachine cooled by Water:

*Build startet @19th October 2009*

Xigmatek [email protected]@full Leather [email protected] Front
i7 [email protected],[email protected] Supreme LT
[email protected] Water Blocks EK-FC275 GTX PCB - Acetal
Gigabyte P55 UD4
8gb Corsair XMS3 1600
2x 240 Aquacomputer 240 [email protected] Noiseblocker [email protected]
1x 120 Aquacomputer 120 [email protected] Noiseblocker [email protected]
1x 500gb Seagate .12
2x 1TB Seagate .12
1x DVD RW










Hope you like those Fotos.

Have a nice day.

By

HOLY CRAP







that loooks amazing!









What color coolant and/or tubes is that?


----------



## Losmile

Thanks alot.

IÂ´ve get those tubes in Germany @ www.aquatuning.de. But they are not available any more. Those were very cheap, 1,99€ the meter 13/10

Those:

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...aktiv-Red.html

look like the same but they call them red. Just indeed i think they are mine but i canÂ´t entreat it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

201 is the cut-off for free games.

will pick winners after i get back from classes.


----------



## bundymania

OMG the Alien mothership has landed...


----------



## konkhra

so what exactly is needed to join?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Bastiaan_NL

a picture showing your loop, and the parts you used


----------



## konkhra

o, like the one already made?


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

201 is the cut-off for free games.

will pick winners after i get back from classes.

What did I need to do to get into the running. my beast is alive and running as we speak.




























Might not be nice enough to win a prize, infact I doubt it, i'm terrible with cable management, but, I figured it couldn't hurt to enter if possible.


----------



## arbalest

Wow. I didn't know we won free stuff?! I just thought it was something cool to do! lol


----------



## Gill..

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc* 
What did I need to do to get into the running. my beast is alive and running as we speak.

Might not be nice enough to win a prize, infact I doubt it, i'm terrible with cable management, but, I figured it couldn't hurt to enter if possible.

Good build dude. I don't think your cables are terrible. 6 bucks in management materials and make it into a half hour project/game for yourself some night (hide the cable game).

They're so cheap - I was able to color match all the cable management stuff for both of my systems..

once I have steady income again I want more of the plastic UV reative wire wrapping stuff...I love that stuff...

From a couple feet back, the larger wrapped wires look sorta like your tubes (keep colors in perspective too)...it's a cool effect..

Definitely on the cables for the vid card I see...


----------



## bundymania

an old rig from 2005










2007:




























Banchetto 101:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 







an old rig from 2005











There's something about straight tubes in pc's that I really like


----------



## identitycrisis

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 










Is that a PC-G70? Did you make an aluminum housing for the rad in the top?


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Little update on testing since system is effectively done now. System idles at ambient room temp. Under 5.5 hours of load from LinX, it got to 40c, and within a minute of LinX being turned off, it dropped back to 26c.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *konkhra* 
so what exactly is needed to join?









read the first post. All you need is to post a picture of your rig and a list of the water cooling parts you used.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc* 
What did I need to do to get into the running.

nothing, you where already a member.







new pics look good though.

updated.

winners coming in a few minutes.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

so the winners are:

Philbar71
Open1Your1Eyes0
woppy101
keitare

congrats guys! PM's coming...

If the PM's are not responded to by Monday or if the winners decline I will re-draw for the remaining copies.


----------



## konkhra

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
read the first post. All you need is to post a picture of your rig and a list of the water cooling parts you used.









nothing, you where already a member.







new pics look good though.

updated.

winners coming in a few minutes.

yeah, i read them and posted on page 99


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *konkhra* 
yeah, i read them and posted on page 99









I am sorry about that. I had a post immediately after yours, we must have cross posted and I missed it.

I will add you to the list.


----------



## bundymania

@identitycrisis: Yep, itÂ´s an G70B and i used a Watercool HTF3 Triplerad, comes @stock with an metal housing


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Losmile* 
This is my Picturemachine cooled by Water:

*Build startet @19th October 2009*

Xigmatek [email protected]@full Leather [email protected] Front
i7 [email protected],[email protected] Supreme LT
[email protected] Water Blocks EK-FC275 GTX PCB - Acetal
Gigabyte P55 UD4
8gb Corsair XMS3 1600
2x 240 Aquacomputer 240 [email protected] Noiseblocker [email protected]
1x 120 Aquacomputer 120 [email protected] Noiseblocker [email protected]
1x 500gb Seagate .12
2x 1TB Seagate .12
1x DVD RW

*Now:*










That is beautiful! MDPC stuff I think, especially with that leather outer. Beautiful!


----------



## arbalest

*I re-did my H50 Mod...*

Please update my listing


----------



## CatfishSoup

i freaking love this thread! so many amazing set ups! and congrats on the winners!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CatfishSoup* 
i freaking love this thread! so many amazing set ups! and congrats on the winners!

this!
its just cool to look trough all the posts here, and check out all the systems for idea's etc. awsome work guys


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CatfishSoup* 
i freaking love this thread! so many amazing set ups! and congrats on the winners!


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
this!
its just cool to look trough all the posts here, and check out all the systems for idea's etc. awsome work guys









Glad you like it guys! ;-)


----------



## bundymania

BP Battlemech II


----------



## Tank

took me a while to get pics cause my camera was messed up. anyway here ya go....I know its a bit dusty and I need to clean my desk off


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

hey, is that antifreeze?


----------



## Tank

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

hey, is that antifreeze?

its a little bit, maybe about .5oz of it


----------



## shredzy

Add me please!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Losmile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
That is beautiful! MDPC stuff I think, especially with that leather outer. Beautiful!

Oh thank you very much, but i donÂ´t think it is "perfekt" enough for MDPC. And i know how hard it is to get there. Got two Computers there listing.

Today i had a little bit Time, so iÂ´ve just it to work a little bit at the Tubes:














































Nice evening from Germany


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I absolutely love your machine Losmile







What machines are yours on MDPC?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 88hurst

Today i had a little bit Time, so iÂ´ve just it to work a little bit at the Tubes:










What fluid are you using?


----------



## Chilly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88hurst* 
Today i had a little bit Time, so iÂ´ve just it to work a little bit at the Tubes:










What fluid are you using?

Most likely distilled water with an UV additive or coloured tubing.


----------



## Losmile

Most likely distilled water with an UV additive *and* coloured tubing







.

Those tubes:

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...lue-Clear.html

and this fluid:

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...-Blue-3ml.html

@spiderm0nkey

Thanks for compliment.

Those are mine @mdpc, both air cooled.

First one:

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys...le/losmile.htm

Second one:

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys...antec-p180.htm

Cya


----------



## Alexandro

You got to be careful with PrimoChill dyebomb. I've heard it can mess up your loop pretty bad (sticky goo in your blocks).


----------



## Losmile

Ive red about this, but i wanÂ´t to try it. Got also G48 in the Water. When it is messing my supreme, i will go back to just distilled water and G48.

Thanks


----------



## sil96verman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VenomIce* 
Nice sil96verman.

thanks but i think still have many areas to improve like using compression fitting instead of worm clamps.


----------



## Fear of Oneself

my loop is distilled water+the green stuff that came with it, now this green stuff is all used up, is there anyway to change the colour of the loop? like, where do you buy the additives?

(off topic: 3.7ghz and 45 minutes into linpack







so far)

EDIT: ah what the heck, take a look, see what i mean, the green doesn't match:


----------



## Alexandro

If you want to give your loop a nice color, I think it's best to buy pre-made mixes. Additives seem to clog faster.


----------



## Fear of Oneself

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alexandro*


If you want to give your loop a nice color, I think it's best to buy pre-made mixes. Additives seem to clog faster.


could i use straight up anti-freeze and turn the loop blue? like windshield washer?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*


could i use straight up anti-freeze and turn the loop blue? like windshield washer?


antifreeze is yellow/green

best bet would be colored tubing with distilled water and pt nuke.

updated


----------



## toast3d

here are som pics... would the powers to be please add me to the list! thanks in advance!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Fear of Oneself

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
antifreeze is yellow/green

best bet would be colored tubing with distilled water and pt nuke.

updated

uuuuhhhh.....no not necessarily.

At my work we sell blue, red, green, and yellow antifreeze, just will it kill my pump and eat through the tubing or something? Cause car radiator antifreeze is specially formulated for heat transfer.

And it's the same price as distilled water, a buck a litre


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*


uuuuhhhh.....no not necessarily.

At my work we sell blue, red, green, and yellow antifreeze, just will it kill my pump and eat through the tubing or something? Cause car radiator antifreeze is specially formulated for heat transfer.

And it's the same price as distilled water, a buck a litre


normally people mix it with distilled water, but no it will not hurt anything. don't expect much of a difference in temps though (if any at all).

btw, what are the differences between those one's your work sells? normally if it is blue it will have detergent in it and you do not want that.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*


could i use straight up anti-freeze and turn the loop blue? like windshield washer?



You only need small amount of anti freeze in a loop, no need to pour the entire quart in it. Anti freeze has a much higher viscocity than water and will put added stress on the pump if a full quart is used.

MATERIAL............................APPROXIMATE VISCOSITY
................................................ (in centipoise)
Water @ 70 F....................................1 to 5
Blood or Kerosene.................................10
Anti-Freeze or Ethylene Glycol.................15

Ira-k has a very nice write up on how to make your own coolant mix.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Losmile*


@spiderm0nkey

Thanks for compliment.

Those are mine @mdpc, both air cooled.

First one:

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys...le/losmile.htm

Second one:

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys...antec-p180.htm

Cya


Can't believe I missed those! I was going through mdpc yesterday trying to find builds by you. They look great!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alexandro*


You got to be careful with PrimoChill dyebomb. I've heard it can mess up your loop pretty bad (sticky goo in your blocks).


It's not just PrimoChill that does that though. I had a homemade reservoir that ended up gunking up my loop over time. There were pretty thin channels in my CPU block and some of the epoxy that was used to glue the barbs into the tank came out and got stuck in the block. Temps went up due to the restrictiveness of having half the channels blocked by gunk. Opened up the block and it was fairly disgusting.. It's probably a good idea to get a wider channeled CPU block if you want to use a dye in your loop so that it isn't quite so easy for any gunk that does form, to stick in the channels and mess things up.


----------



## NeverGive7

I would like to throw my rig into the fray and be added to the list. This is my first watercooled computer that I finished about 5 days ago. Lovin' the coolness and the OC'ing it allows. I will be adding a GPU block as well as NB/SB later too.

Components:

XSPC RX360 Rad
EK Supreme HF CPU Block
Swiftech MicroRes
D5 Vario Pump w/ EK D5 X-Top Rev. 2
Clearflex 60 - 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Tubing
Bitspower Matte Black G 1/4" x 1/2" barbs and G 1/4'' Low Pro Stops
Distilled Water and PT Nuke -PHN

Pix:


----------



## Fear of Oneself

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


normally people mix it with distilled water, but no it will not hurt anything. don't expect much of a difference in temps though (if any at all).

btw, what are the differences between those one's your work sells? normally if it is blue it will have detergent in it and you do not want that.


Blue: windshield washer anti freeze
Green: radiator
Yellow: high quality radiator
Red: plumbing

i work at home hardware


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*


Blue: windshield washer anti freeze
Green: radiator
Yellow: high quality radiator
Red: plumbing

i work at home hardware










yea, the blue you definatly do not want to use in a WC loop.

IDK about the red though.


----------



## Fear of Oneself

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


yea, the blue you definatly do not want to use in a WC loop.

IDK about the red though.


aw man, that's what i wanted to use. And the blue lights plus red would make the loop purple. Dang.

blue food colouring in the water itself maybe?

( i would obviously use a very small amount of antifreeze to water ration anyway, just enough to make it look blue)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*


aw man, that's what i wanted to use. And the blue lights plus red would make the loop purple. Dang.

blue food colouring in the water itself maybe?

( i would obviously use a very small amount of antifreeze to water ration anyway, just enough to make it look blue)


light does not work that way, it would not look purple. you are thinking of how pigments add.

your best bet is to get colored tubing.

don't use food coloring. if you MUST have dye get some actual WC dye from frozencpu.com or performance-pcs.com


----------



## Fear of Oneself

okay, thanks for the help. Ill deal with the green, and then get tubes later one


----------



## TrippinBimmer

Hello Guys,

Just finish my High-Tech Water Cooling System









Running Temps Folding are at 55* CPU and 35* GPU's


















-TrippinBimmer


----------



## spiderm0nkey

A temporary water setup...


















Before I properly attached the fan to the rad. Was still getting great temps with it like that!









Mega tube stretch!


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Mega tube stretch!









LOL How did you do that??!?!?! lol
Fitting my 1/2ID over my Swiftech 655 with 1/2 stock barbs makes me mad, I cant even imagine.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vermillion*


LOL How did you do that??!?!?! lol
Fitting my 1/2ID over my Swiftech 655 with 1/2 stock barbs makes me mad, I cant even imagine.










Ahaha. Well, the thing is, my hands weren't strong enough to do it so I conned my dad and boyfriend into doing it for me. The radiator barbs were far worse than the pump barbs too so they both got a bit annoyed after a while, especially since this is only a temporary water setup.

EDIT: Btw kev, that was my second post too. I'm number 60 on the original list


----------



## scvette

I would like to join this huge watercooling club with the new system I just finished.









I7 920 at 4.21Ghz with Swiftech GTZ block
EVGA Classified 760 with EK full board block
BFG GTX 295 with Swiftech Epsilon block
6 gb Corsair Dominator 2000mhz Ram
2x Patriot Torqx 64gb SSD raid 0
2x Velociraptor 300gb raid 0
WD blue 300gb HD
Haf 932 fully powdercoated with hinged door
Corsair HX1000 psu
Plextor Blue-Ray writer reader
Dual cooling loops, distilled water w/ nuke:
Xspc dual reservoir
2x 355 laing ddc pumps
red hose for cpu loop
blue hose for gpu/systemboard loop
xspc rx360 radiator, red loop
2x Swiftech mcr220 radiators, blue loop
7x 120mm Yate Loon high speed red led fans
1x 140mm Yate Loon red led fan
1x 230mm Coolermaster red led fan
2x Nzxt Sentry 2 fan controllers





































Thanks for looking.
SCVette


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scvette* 
I would like to join this huge watercooling club with the new system I just finished.









I7 920 at 4.21Ghz with Swiftech GTZ block
EVGA Classified 760 with EK full board block
BFG GTX 295 with Swiftech Epsilon block
6 gb Corsair Dominator 2000mhz Ram
2x Patriot Torqx 64gb SSD raid 0
2x Velociraptor 300gb raid 0
WD blue 300gb HD
Haf 932 fully powdercoated with hinged door
Corsair HX1000 psu
Plextor Blue-Ray writer reader
Dual cooling loops, distilled water w/ nuke:
Xspc dual reservoir
2x 355 laing ddc pumps
red hose for cpu loop
blue hose for gpu/systemboard loop
xspc rx360 radiator, red loop
2x Swiftech mcr220 radiators, blue loop
7x 120mm Yate Loon high speed red led fans
1x 140mm Yate Loon red led fan
1x 230mm Coolermaster red led fan
2x Nzxt Sentry 2 fan controllers










Thanks for looking.
SCVette

Wow that looks great, I always wondered if anyone put rads on the side panel.


----------



## eppopipe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scvette* 
I would like to join this huge watercooling club with the new system I just finished.









Haf 932 fully powdercoated with hinged door










Thanks for looking.
SCVette

How did you hinge your door?
I have mine hinged but it doesnt seem to work as well as yours..
Would you so kind to either shoot me a pm or post a how-to?
Thanks!


----------



## v1ral

add me to the list.

Dtek Fuzion v2. w/ Socket 1366 pro mount
Ek Full Coverage Classified water block
x6 high speed Yate loons
x1 MCR 360 stack, x1 MCR 360 "vanilla
Swiftech MCP 655 pump with EK.. Crap forgot the name of it. but it allows to mount 1/4 thread barbs.
Swiftech micro RES.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *v1ral* 
add me to the list.

Dtek Fuzion v2. w/ Socket 1366 pro mount
Ek Full Coverage Classified water block
x6 high speed Yate loons
x1 MCR 360 stack, x1 MCR 360 "vanilla
Swiftech MCP 655 pump with EK.. Crap forgot the name of it. but it allows to mount 1/4 thread barbs.
Swiftech micro RES.










Oh my OUCH!, Holy sh!*, Your wc rig is AWESOME!


----------



## Fear of Oneself

seems like the HAF 932 is the rig of choice for water coolers, i would have put my rad on the side pannel, but it's all glass


----------



## Deagle50ae

mcp655 w/ bitspower top
Thermochill HE120.3 (XSPC RX360 soon!)
Ek Coolflow 120.2
HK 3.0 LT cpu block
HK GT200 gpu blocks
Fesser 45-degree rotary fittings

my rig

































Don't use dye!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## XFreeRollerX

mm bookmarked, gonna add my two builds later


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself* 
seems like the HAF 932 is the rig of choice for water coolers, i would have put my rad on the side pannel, but it's all glass









yah its one of the easier cases to watercool with. So is the Cosmos S which is another case quite a few with watercooling run.


----------



## ProcessorBeast09

Befor Cable Managment And Mods









My New Setup Upgrades To Come (My Temps Are Now 28'C Idle 32'C Load)


----------



## soda480

updated build
replaced EK reservoir with Swiftech Micro Res


----------



## FlamingCrayon

My new WC setup:


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

WOW those 2 builds above are VERY nice


----------



## Forsaken_id

Yeah they are very clean.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Fear of Oneself

the two systems above are very well put together and neatly done, ill post a picture in a bit (when LinX finishs 50 runs **hopefully** with the 720 at 3.7 and lowered voltage) with the side off, and ill post it as an edit to this post. Then can you guys give me some suggestions as to make my case look neater, cause mine is a mess compared to the above ones (two IDE drives though, and 4 cathodes)


----------



## ProcessorBeast09

Wow Thanks Guys... *****


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*


the two systems above are very well put together and neatly done, ill post a picture in a bit (when LinX finishs 50 runs **hopefully** with the 720 at 3.7 and lowered voltage) with the side off, and ill post it as an edit to this post. Then can you guys give me some suggestions as to make my case look neater, cause mine is a mess compared to the above ones (two IDE drives though, and 4 cathodes)


Please do not post it as an edit to that post, it makes it hard for me to maintain the list.

just make a new post.

thanks.


----------



## CurlyBrackets

Mind if join in the fun with my new i7 loop?

apogee xt
gtx 240
4x ultra kaze 3k's @ ~50% w/ 25 mm shrouds
DD single bay res
jingway dp1200 (CPX-Pro)
bitspower shining silver barbs
PC ICE Clear










sorry about the terrible pics, its a busted camera that decides when it wants to work...

-{}


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

hey, what are your temps with a 240mm rad on an I7?


----------



## Messymitch503

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CurlyBrackets* 
Im just finished my i7 loop using a dual rad and a jingway dp1200 (CPX-Pro), im running at stock speeds but using 4 Ultra kaze 3k's at ~50% w/ shrouds is giving me ~35 idle and ~45 load using the xt.

Saw this in another thread.








http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-pump-use.html


----------



## sistemas1

wow nice +1 i wouldl ike have one like that jejje
i just make my post need help dunno what buy with 200 dolars


----------



## nafljhy

some of mine i guess:




































----------------------------------


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
some of mine i guess:











i see gold









cool stuff m8, why dont you use any gold? it would be awsome(and cost more than all your other pc's.....)


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

You just had to huh nafljhy


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*


i see gold









cool stuff m8, why dont you use any gold? it would be awsome(and cost more than all your other pc's.....)


too soft is all i can say about gold BUT brass is a good substitute in our WC'ing world.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


You just had to huh nafljhy















































































































































































































haha... i figured why not


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nafljhy*


haha... i figured why not










glad you did.









although, whatever is in that second build's tubes looks like poo water... 

edit: and why two pumps with no rad in sight?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
glad you did.









although, whatever is in that second build's tubes looks like poo water... 

edit: and why two pumps with no rad in sight?

Looks like hes using the pumps in series.


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Hey guys, I got a question for you.

I have an OLD pump, and saying that the acrylic portion is beat to H3LL is a gross understatement. But the pump portion itself works rather well. Can supply pics if needbe. Now when I got this is was VERY VERY VERY much a WC noob, and I could have sworn I was told it was Swiftech, but this isn't the 355 I remember. I was looking it over and I think it was an Alphacool, label is a DDC-1 Plus T so it is made by Laing. Here is a link to what I got. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4510

I went through 2 tops for it, both exploded, could not begin to say why.

Now to the question portion.
I will be building a new PC for the other half, and she wants it QUIET. And I have a bunch of extra WC gear, so all I need is a couple parts and I will WC her CPU on the new board. Where can I get a replacement acrylic top at a descent price, and please provide some links if anyone has ever used their stuff. Also, I would prefer a top or an adapter to the top that allows me to run a small tube with a fill port to the top of the case.
Any suggestions??

THANKS!


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Count me in







Finished it yesterday


----------



## sexybastard

nice mod man... looks really good but you should empty that res a little bit. I found having it mostly full made temps go up slightly. lower the water level by half an inch and you should be golden.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
nice mod man... looks really good but you should empty that res a little bit. I found having it mostly full made temps go up slightly. lower the water level by half an inch and you should be golden.

Okay, thanks for the tip. Will do. Best way to do that is just pour some out?
Just wondering, why having more water in the res would increase temps?


----------



## Marauder_IIc

In this case, probably because of the inbound/outbound tubing placements. Dont necessarily get full circulation, which can cause warm fluid to become stagnant in the top.


----------



## its my first time

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Count me in







Finished it yesterday

Nice mod.

Are you not gonna go for a "proper" cpu block etc eventually?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *its my first time* 
Nice mod.

Are you not gonna go for a "proper" cpu block etc eventually?

Thanks, I think in the future I will eventually get a real WC loop/cpu block. I got the h50 to replace the stock AMD cooler (my temps were bad to begin with). Then after looking at the modding and such, I decided to do that.


----------



## its my first time

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Thanks, I think in the future I will eventually get a real WC loop/cpu block. I got the h50 to replace the stock AMD cooler (my temps were bad to begin with). Then after looking at the modding and such, I decided to do that.

What difference in temps did your mod make? Before and after Thanks


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

What difference in temps did your mod make? Before and after Thanks
To be honest, I only saw like a 1-2C drop.. But I still have to let the TIM set in. Im doing to try the system as intake (instead of exhaust), and ill try the change the loop from res-rad-h50-res... to res-h50-rad-res.
And see the difference in temps with the different combinations.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Okay, thanks for the tip. Will do. Best way to do that is just pour some out?
Just wondering, why having more water in the res would increase temps?

I bought one of those syringes people use to baste turkeys and chicken with. you can get something similar from danger den. Got it at the local grocery store for $5. Easy to fill and empty with one of those. If you have a microcenter nearby they carry the danger den syringe for $3 (none near my college).

I have no idea why having less liquid drops temps but I think it may be related to less force the pump needs, more room for air bubbles to form and also as the person said above, better circulation.


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
glad you did.









although, whatever is in that second build's tubes looks like poo water... 

edit: and why two pumps with no rad in sight?

haha. thanks. the second build's water is more like chameleon going from green to purple. and the rad is underneath the pumps hidden away.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nafljhy*


haha. thanks. the second build's water is more like chameleon going from green to purple. and the rad is underneath the pumps hidden away.










ah, got it.

but why two pumps? do you see a significant drop in temps from the increased flow rate?


----------



## HeliXpc




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Fear of Oneself

The systems i saw yesterday were VERY clean, any idea's for mine? this is with the side off, with it on, you can' see into the HDD cages

EDIT: sorry it's so fuzzy, i just saw that now


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HeliXpc*


http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/9067/img1093i.jpg
*(Drain tube)*


You're doing it wrong, flip the T the other way so there is a more direct flow to the pump. Flip the T like this









you get what I'm saying?

Also we should have some sort of rule where you can't post MASSIVE full res pics









But hey, at least you did not fail like this guy, he said he couldn't fill his loop and he tried everything, no wonder, his T-line is after the pump







and cpu


----------



## skkhai

That's actually a drain I think. From his other pictures, it appears he's using 2 T fittings.

EDIT: I get what you mean now.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skkhai*


That's actually a drain I think. From his other pictures, it appears he's using 2 T fittings.


I know that is a drain, I see his T for filling and the T for draining, Im just saying flipping the T around would make the water path more direct into the pump.


----------



## HeliXpc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


You're doing it wrong, flip the T the other way so there is a more direct flow to the pump. Flip the T like this









you get what I'm saying?

Also we should have some sort of rule where you can't post MASSIVE full res pics









But hey, at least you did not fail like this guy, he said he couldn't fill his loop and he tried everything, no wonder, his T-line is after the pump







and cpu


















Thanks ill do that now, to let the air bubbles out, do i leave the filport/reservoir lid/top open?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HeliXpc*


Thanks ill do that now, to let the air bubbles out, do i leave the filport/reservoir lid/top open?


It is best to, I leave it on losely so air can still escape, but I have a reservoir top, when I ran a T line I left the fill line open.


----------



## bundymania

More Radiator Shrouds Pics to enjoy


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 985323

Heres my main rig the Haf 
















have a block for the card just havent installed it yet









And my lan rig the scout
















Still have a bit of work to do


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


I bought one of those syringes people use to baste turkeys and chicken with. you can get something similar from danger den. Got it at the local grocery store for $5. Easy to fill and empty with one of those. If you have a microcenter nearby they carry the danger den syringe for $3 (none near my college).

I have no idea why having less liquid drops temps but I think it may be related to less force the pump needs, more room for air bubbles to form and also as the person said above, better circulation.


Dude, May my comment add on this? Did you know that auto store as such Kargen, autozone, they do sell the syringes for $5.00.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HeliXpc* 




















nice set up. I have somewhat similar setup as yours. I love T-LINE/FILLPOST!!!!!!!!!


----------



## bundymania

New Res. from XSPC - now with changeable Faceplates


----------



## its my first time

Here's mine, I still need to tidy up a bit, and cut zip ties etc.

i'll get more pics up soon.

Recently had to redo loop as I had a leak


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


More Radiator Shrouds Pics to enjoy










i love those shrouds where did you get them?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Count me in







Finished it yesterday

Mod looks great







, it's good to see another H50 modded but I wonder if your 1-2c difference isn't due to the way you ran the tubing? Did you know that the right-side port (looking at the words Corsair) is the inlet. Shouldn't that be fed from the reservoir? then pump the coolant thru the radiator and then to the reservoir. That's the way I ran mine and I got a 5c idle reduction in temps and a 10c reduction P95 loaded. Just a thought. Maybe some "fluid-dynamical" engineers can step up and correct me.

Anyway, here are some shots of mine. It's cooling an i7 920 C0 clocked to 3.93ghz in a MSI X58 PRO motherboard.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan* 
i love those shrouds where did you get them?

They're the TFC Xtender Shrouds. They come in blue/red/green or you don't have to install the led kit if you don't want. They are approximately 31mm deep.


----------



## bundymania

The beautiful and good performing Ybris Black Sun Block




































*Review:*

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community...d.php?t=611143


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

bundy, wanna add one more so you are at an even 20 posts?  (or 2 more so you have triple the number of posts of any other member)


----------



## its my first time

That evga motherboard is the ebst looking motherboard I've ever seen


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *its my first time* 
That evga motherboard is the ebst looking motherboard I've ever seen









EVGA's x58 boards are teh sickness.


----------



## its my first time

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
EVGA's x58 boards are teh sickness. 

Yeah tell me about it.

It's a shame they don't make boards for amd.

I'll be going intel soon so I'll get me a nice evga board


----------



## beasty

About time i posted hear.
Nothing fancy just all out cooling power.



























kinda hard to see but thats a 9x120mm rad for the cpu and a 3x120 and 2x120 rad for my gfx card

Cable management and braiding to come when i have the time!


----------



## SimpleTech

My "backup" rig. _It gets me places._





































Some more:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

ok, here we go again


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
ok, here we go again


















lmao, epic build is epic.
i see awsome watercooling with a passive cooled gpu









looking sick tho


----------



## bundymania

Haha, yeah youÂ´re right, itÂ´s a bit funny and strange with the low end passive card on this build








I construct this setup at first for presenting/promoting and reviewing the banchetto 101 bench station, so it was ok for me to go with this little gfx card


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Haha, yeah youÂ´re right, itÂ´s a bit funny and strange with the low end passive card on this build








I construct this setup at first for presenting/promoting and reviewing the banchetto 101 bench station, so it was ok for me to go with this little gfx card









ye, and if you wouldnt be gaming that card is cool too, this way you dont have any sound at all, at least if you slow down the rad fans...








youve got some awsome stuff to review there, keep it up.
Most of the guys might not be responding here, but im sure they like to watch all this awsomeness







at least i do


----------



## liberalelephant

Quote:


Originally Posted by *beasty* 
About time i posted hear.
Nothing fancy just all out cooling power.



























kinda hard to see but thats a 9x120mm rad for the cpu and a 3x120 and 2x120 rad for my gfx card

Cable management and braiding to come when i have the time!

OMG a 9x120 rad for the cpu? Holy crap what kind of temps do you get with that setup?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

Mod looks great , it's good to see another H50 modded but I wonder if your 1-2c difference isn't due to the way you ran the tubing? Did you know that the right-side port (looking at the words Corsair) is the inlet. Shouldn't that be fed from the reservoir? then pump the coolant thru the radiator and then to the reservoir. That's the way I ran mine and I got a 5c idle reduction in temps and a 10c reduction P95 loaded. Just a thought. Maybe some "fluid-dynamical" engineers can step up and correct me.
Hmmm.. not sure. But willhemmen's guide said to set the loop up as: res>rad>h50>res. Im going to try in a month res>h50>rad>res and see the temp difference though.
I think the size of the case is now a large factor in my temps. Because I see people without a modded h50 getting lower temps but with the large CM cases or such


----------



## CatfishSoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
My "backup" rig. _It gets me places._




















this "back up " rig looks very nice! i love the clean look with the white, and the inside of the case in black.


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Hmmm.. not sure. But willhemmen's guide said to set the loop up as: res>rad>h50>res. Im going to try in a month res>h50>rad>res and see the temp difference though.
I think the size of the case is now a large factor in my temps. Because I see people without a modded h50 getting lower temps but with the large CM cases or such

Keep us posted on the results. I do have a pretty huge case in the CM Storm Sniper but does that matter if you're exhausting the fans on the H50? BTW, On my modded H50, I was experimenting with running the fans both ways. At this time the fans are actually running the way Corsair recommended, intaking. I know they are blowing right on my 2nd GTX260 but it only raised the temp a few Celsius over the top gpu.

My next mod will be to reverse the fans and see what that does for temps.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hollywood406* 
Keep us posted on the results. I do have a pretty huge case in the CM Storm Sniper but does that matter if you're exhausting the fans on the H50? BTW, On my modded H50, I was experimenting with running the fans both ways. At this time the fans are actually running the way Corsair recommended, intaking. I know they are blowing right on my 2nd GTX260 but it only raised the temp a few Celsius over the top gpu.

My next mod will be to reverse the fans and see what that does for temps.


A larger case plays a big factor in temps. I have the fans as intake as well. Im going to get another Ultra Kaze soon, to have a p/p setup with them. Right now its only U.K and an R4


----------



## bundymania




----------



## beasty

Quote:

OMG a 9x120 rad for the cpu? Holy crap what kind of temps do you get with that setup?
~55-60 degrees on all 4 cores at 4.5GHz after 30 mins of linx with an ambient of about 25 degrees


----------



## bundymania

Beware of my Bitspower Army !


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

i count 118 fittings
lets say they are all 10 bucks....................


----------



## bundymania

Some fittings and adapters are already in Action and not on the pic, so all over all must be about ~ 480 Euros what iÂ´ve payed for the sh....







(you know that we "studpid" europeans pay much more than the US guys for those Fittings





















(Caseking.de - highflow.nl - it-service.be ..just to mention a few)


----------



## doat

Do you really need that many? lol, then again this is OCN


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Some fittings and adapters are already in Action and not on the pic, so all over all must be about ~ 480 Euros what iÂ´ve payed for the sh....







(you know that we "studpid" europeans pay much more than the US guys for those Fittings





















(Caseking.de - highflow.nl - it-service.be ..just to mention a few)

ye, its pretty expensive... ive got a few bitspower fittings from highflow.nl. That shop is pretty close so if i order ive got it the next day.


----------



## Mikeyfly300

My rig


----------



## Forsaken_id

Nice^^
Everyone on here seems to hate on the xclio cases, but i had one before my HAF and i liked it.

--Rome


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## soda480

posted a video of my latest build:


YouTube- Corsair Obsidian 800D Water Cooled


----------



## bundymania

Nice Setup @soda480 !

A little mix of everything from me


----------



## Gizmo

Count me in! Obviously not a permanent solution...TJ09 is in the mail and arriving by the end of the week I hope!

Sold my MegaShadow a few weeks ago, and managed to run off without writing down temperatures. However, I do have a comparison between stock and new loop.

Both at stock clocks with same ambient. 1.375 volts as well.

Stock cooler:
Idle 31 / Prime 95 Blend Load 61

Loop:

Idle 19-20 / Prime 95 Blend Load 30

Loop looks hideous right now...currently just laying on floor underneath desk.

Apogee GTZ
Swiftech 120.3
(3) Xigmatek 120mm White LED
Corsair D4
T - Line









Here we go:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## its my first time

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soda480* 
posted a video of my latest build:YouTube- Corsair Obsidian 800D Water Cooled

Damn man that is real real nice.


----------



## bundymania

Price & Realeasedate: not known yet


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soda480* 
posted a video of my latest build:YouTube- Corsair Obsidian 800D Water Cooled

I am really liking those Corsair cases more every day.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 









Price & Realeasedate: not known yet









I like that rad. Let us know when they are out!

--Rome


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 











where do i find this?


----------



## scrotes

can u add pls


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

i like the blue/red fade you got goin there...


----------



## TrippinBimmer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *da tick 07* 
where do i find this?









x2 but I need one for a Quad Rad....









-TrippinBimmer


----------



## Forsaken_id

I got new stuff today! I'll redo my loop this coming Sunday I think.
This:








Plus this:








Plus this:








Equals this:
































Neat little diverter fitting in the res cap:

































When I redo the loop I'll use the black fittings I've had sitting around and use my new acid green UV tubing. Under UV it looks like it'll match my rad fans.

EDIT: also the Bitspower res is way better quality than that EK monstrosity I am using.

--Rome


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id* 
EDIT: also the Bitspower res is way better quality than that EK monstrosity I am using.

--Rome

don't be so sure about that... yes it is beefy, but it is also the only thing in my loop that leaked.

Be VERY careful with the threads around lid and where the tube joins the pump top. Use Teflon tape and seal it with a silicon glue.

also, chase the fitting threads before you use them if you can.


----------



## bundymania

@da_tick: The Feser Carbon Radgrill is a Prototype - not available in shops

And now...look at this, the brandnew CPU Waterblock from Koolance:


----------



## beasty

Very nice looking block bundymania.
Got any pics of its guts?


----------



## bundymania

yep

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=244679


----------



## carrion

I really fancy the look of 360!


----------



## nafljhy

that looks like a ninja star.


----------



## MeeksMan13

So guys, I decided that i'd finally take the time to sit down and take half an hour to an hour to take some _good_ pictures of my computer. Now to show off my little Canon A650 IS can do









my smexy Apogee XT

















FrozenQ's Inverse T-Virus Res. Pure secks.

















Inside with lights on









Inside with lights off









These 2 are really dark, but I love how sleek the tubing looks =)









I really like how the fading is on the reservoir in this picture









2 awesome pictures to finish off this post with


----------



## SimpleTech

Oh that is really creepy/ironic.

Your FrozenQ resembles a DNA helix and your loop has an 'X' chromosome shape.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Oh that is really creepy/ironic.

Your FrozenQ resembles a DNA helix and your loop has an 'X' chromosome shape.

isn't it perfect and awesome?


----------



## ShortySmalls

ill post my pics on friday when my loop comes off the fedex truck,

got the following parts:

Watercool HeatKiller 3.0 1156 Mount
XSPC RX360
Swifttech MCP655
Danger Den Rad-Res Tube Style Res
Primochill Primoflex PRO LRT UV Blue 7/16 ID
Danger Den "Fat Boy" 1/2 OD Barbs on everything


----------



## hollywood406

Loop looks great! If you could just get rid of those tie-wraps holding the reservoir up, it would be perfect!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## its my first time

An update from me


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hollywood406* 
Loop looks great! If you could just get rid of those tie-wraps holding the reservoir up, it would be perfect!









yeah, i'm working on how I could mount it so that I wouldn't have to unclip the reservoir from what holds it up (don't wanna mess up the acrylic) I plan on doing it when I change to colored tubing instead of using dyed coolant


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## bundymania

Updaaaaate !


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## marauderrt10




----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marauderrt10*












OMG so many tubes lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## marauderrt10

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
OMG so many tubes lol

lol well thats what happens when your WC a processor, two video cards, have two pumps, two reservoirs, and two radiators in a loop


----------



## Heatkiller

my DD dbwide ^^


----------



## soda480

updated my build .. replaced radiator, added Koolance CPU 360!, replaced fans ... i'm hooked on WC!


YouTube- Corsair Obsidian 800D Water Cooled Rev. 2


----------



## bundymania

@Heatkiller: I like those Enermax Fans and the Mounting Plate modded with carbone foil !









@soda: Post some pics pls !

Look at this Beautyqueen:


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

to this whole thread^^^^^^^^^^^


----------



## ShortySmalls

just got my loop setup yesterday. already love watercooling and will nvr go back to air. i have no idea whats up with my tubing, some times its bright purple, and sometimes its dark blue like i ordered. its white when under the uv lighting lol.


----------



## andygoyap

My RIG @ University of San Carlos IT WEEK X-RIG Event in my country.


















sadly after the event my mp655 pump died.


----------



## mfb412

are those triple 5870's?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ira-k

Hey you got your rig up!..







.. How do you like it Kevin?

EDIT: Hey how do you fill your res? Just tip the case over on it's side?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Hey you got your rig up!..







.. How do you like it Kevin?

EDIT: Hey how do you fill your res? Just tip the case over on it's side?

yea I did! It's awesome. 

scared the hell out of me when the res top leaked during my leak test though.









this is how I filled the res:




























more pics in my work log. ;-)


----------



## Capwn

Doing some more leak testing on my first loop. What do you guys think?


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yea I did! It's awesome. 

scared the hell out of me when the res top leaked during my leak test though.









this is how I filled the res:

more pics in my work log. ;-)

Cool! Are you pushing your OC hard with it?

Leak tests are a good thing...









I knew you had to lay it down..







..I'm going to go check out your work log.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Cool! Are you pushing your OC hard with it?

Leak tests are a good thing...









I knew you had to lay it down..







..I'm going to go check out your work log.

I actually have not pushed my OC any farther yet, but I intend to. ;-)

Yea, the weird thing was that it did not leak until I turned off the pump after 33 hours without leaks... I was all ready to put everything back together and boot up.

I actually only laid it down at first. It ended up being easier to just roll it forward and backward standing up.


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Updated

I actually have not pushed my OC any farther yet, but I intend to. ;-)

Yea, the weird thing was that it did not leak until I turned off the pump after 33 hours without leaks... I was all ready to put everything back together and boot up.

I actually only laid it down at first. It ended up being easier to just roll it forward and backward standing up.

Do it, do it. Push that sucker...







..Safe v-core is for air coolers..









The pressure was holding a o-ring or something in place and when the pressure went down it leaked, I guess, sounds kind of good anyway...









Checked out your work log, you did a really nice job on it, looks great. And I just really like that little sideways pump/res, I thought what the heck, till I saw the t-line on it....


----------



## doat

*Updated*, new case HAF 932, sorry for the bad pics but i just could not get the settings right and my bro didn't feel like adjusting his camera to get it right.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Do it, do it. Push that sucker...







..Safe v-core is for air coolers..









The pressure was holding a o-ring or something in place and when the pressure went down it leaked, I guess, sounds kind of good anyway...









Checked out your work log, you did a really nice job on it, looks great. And I just really like that little sideways pump/res, I thought what the heck, till I saw the t-line on it....









haha, i know right.









yea, thats what i figured.

thanks!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 

FrozenQ's Inverse T-Virus Res. Pure secks.










Seeing pictures makes me jealous







I'm hoping to get one with a green and black helix for my build. FrozenQ is a talented guy that's for sure.


----------



## Extreme Newbie

Well I didn't like the rad hanging off the back so I dug out the saw, hacked a few holes and now my triple rad is inside my Antec 1200 where it belongs.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
*Updated*, new case HAF 932, sorry for the bad pics but i just could not get the settings right and my bro didn't feel like adjusting his camera to get it right.









cool doat, been waiting a while for these pictures


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Seeing pictures makes me jealous







I'm hoping to get one with a green and black helix for my build. FrozenQ is a talented guy that's for sure.

nice! I would vote for a black helix with a green cathode in it. I saw one with a red cathode and black helix and it looked SICK.

Yeah, When I first saw them I knew I needed one when I went WC


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
nice man, I would...

psst, she isn't a man...


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Doing some more leak testing on my first loop. What do you guys think?









Congrats! you upgrade from H50 to the real Loop.. Mmm.. what is brand of waterblock but I like your waterblock.









when you are done with the real WC, then I will tell you what I do think of your wc rig..


----------



## doat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
cool doat, been waiting a while for these pictures









Stalking me again eh ahaha


----------



## Forsaken_id

Updated my stuff
What it looked like before

And now:
Leak testing:








Flash on, no UV:








Flash on, Little UV:
















"Blacked out" my Ram and viewable side of main UV:








Side panel on, lights/flash off, full UV, pump-top green LED:
















Side off, everything on (LED/UV), except with Ram still blacked out:









I really like it. I think I may leave the stealthed ram for a while. Also sleeving every wire in OGRE will be a project for another time.

Parts:
HeatKiller LT 775 W/ backplate
Feser Acid green tubing
Bits Power conglomeration here
Swiftech MCP355 pump
Swiftech MCR320-QP Rad
3 x Gelid 1500rpm fans

--Rome


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
Stalking me again eh ahaha

Like always im watching ur back m8









@Forsaken_id: awsome stuff there, gotta love green


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

psst, she isn't a man... 

lol, alrighty. in that case, I amend my statement


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## hy897t

Hey added my 5970 block and RS360 to my loop. Tell me what you guys think.
Also I am trying clear 7/16 ID tubing to see how I like it compared to the black tubing.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


psst, she isn't a man... 


Idk why everyone loves pointing out that I'm not a guy lol.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Idk why everyone loves pointing out that I'm not a guy lol.

cause we're on a computer forum, no one knows any girls!

completely kidding lol, one of my best friends is of the female persuasion


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Seeing pictures makes me jealous







I'm hoping to get one with a green and black helix for my build. FrozenQ is a talented guy that's for sure.

hey no using my color combo :swearing:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
hey no using my color combo :swearing:

























dang I forgot how bad that pic was I'll try and get some better ones tonight









It was after seeing yours that I realised how perfect it would be for my build


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
It was after seeing yours that I realised how perfect it would be for my build

















well in that case go right ahead









and I knew I had some better pics


----------



## MeeksMan13

i like that combo man, it looks good. it looks like two snakes twisting around the cathode


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
i like that combo man, it looks good. it looks like two snakes twisting around the cathode

Exactly why I want to use it in my snake themed build


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
i like that combo man, it looks good. it looks like two snakes twisting around the cathode

thanks man I love how it looks but I have pulled much hair out over the numerous leaks it has had







.

ps my rad was the first and only (to my knowledge) triport rez so it was bound to have problems.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Exactly why I want to use it in my snake themed build









well I guess 2 things resembling snakes would be suitable for a snake themed build, now wouldn't they lol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
thanks man I love how it looks but I have pulled much hair out over the numerous leaks it has had







.

ps my rad was the first and only (to my knowledge) triport rez so it was bound to have problems.

Mine hasn't leaked yet, I'm hoping it doesn't in the future either (knocks on wood)

If I had known he did ports on the side i would've probably gotten a triport (two on bottom, one on side)


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Congrats! you upgrade from H50 to the real Loop.. Mmm.. what is brand of waterblock but I like your waterblock.









when you are done with the real WC, then I will tell you what I do think of your wc rig..









Still not done but here she is installed and running. Its the Dtek Fuzion V1 block.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Here is mine!


----------



## ira-k

Nice! Did you do the air brushing?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Nice! Did you do the air brushing?

My friend actually did. I drew the sketch though!


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob* 
My friend actually did. I drew the sketch though!









I like that! He did a real decent job on it...


----------



## turbocharged

Here is my thread from 12/08 when I did my W/C setup.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-wc-setup.html

Specs are:

-Swiftech Apogee GTZ CPU Block
-Swiftech MicroRes2
-HW Labs GTX 240 Radiator
-Scythe Slip-Stream 110CFM Fans
-Liang D4 Pump
-Danger Den Fillport, 1/2in ID Masterkleer Tubing, Herbie Clips
-PT Nuke, Pentosin Blue Additiv

When I first installed my loop I had idle temps of high 20s and load temps in the low 40s. Today (15 months on water without re-seating cpu or anything after many 2+ hour car drives) I ran 3DMark Vantage and had load temps of 54-54-49-47 and idle temps of 31-33-36-37 at a CPU clock speed of 3.6GHz @ 1.504V.

Hopefully soon I will be replacing my 8800GTX with a ATI 5850 and will add a gpu waterblock/single 120 radiator to the loop.

And here are the pictures....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## moonslug

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soda480* 
updated my build .. replaced radiator, added Koolance CPU 360!, replaced fans ... i'm hooked on WC!
YouTube- Corsair Obsidian 800D Water Cooled Rev. 2

bad ass!







That's exactly the kind of build I'm imagining for my computer. What res is that, and what are you using to light it? And did you mod the feet on the bottom of your case?


----------



## sdla4ever

recent build i did for a friend

MCR-320, MCP-655, Apogee GTZ, Bitspower 150 Multi-Option, HAF932 case, Red Primochill 7/16"


----------



## soda480

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moonslug*


bad ass!







That's exactly the kind of build I'm imagining for my computer. What res is that, and what are you using to light it? And did you mod the feet on the bottom of your case?


Thanks, the res is a swiftech microres .rev2, it's the 4th (and cheapest) res. i've tried on my setup and it's the one i like the most (go figure). I have two G1/4" lighted crystal plugs to light it up: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/69...tl=g30c101s743

As for the feet, they are stock, no mod.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated...


----------



## Losmile

So, ive got an update for you guys:


















































































New Cablemanagement
New Tubing
New EK EK Water Blocks EK-CoolStream RAD XT 360 in the Bottom.
New Position for the Pump, free in the air








New Position for the two 1TB Harddisks, turned around and Cables ar pluged from Frontside
New Blue LEDÂ´s

Hope you like it

More Information you can find here http://www.sysprofile.de/id125168 but it is all written
in German.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

you have some crazy kinkage going on in that one tube man, but in all it looks amazing. ;-)


----------



## melantha

whats the easiest way to get a measurement for the tubing before you cut them to length?


----------



## rpm666

Updated mine


----------



## junkyard00000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *melantha*


whats the easiest way to get a measurement for the tubing before you cut them to length?


I have used a length of thick rope before, as you can curve it around and then hold it straight to get a decent measurement. Always over-estimate, as you're better off shaving off a few inches than have a length that you can't use because its too short.


----------



## melantha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *junkyard00000*


I have used a length of thick rope before, as you can curve it around and then hold it straight to get a decent measurement. Always over-estimate, as you're better off shaving off a few inches than have a length that you can't use because its too short.


thanks i just got all my parts in and am about to put it in the case and get the tubes cut to leak test em


----------



## junkyard00000

Cool. Post some pictures up when you're all done


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I just held the tubing in place and marked it with a sharpie.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I'm even more budget than that. I hold the tube and work out roughly where it's gonna go and mark it by moving my finger to where I wanna cut it and then I give it a snip xD Too poor for a sharpie atm lol.


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I'm even more budget than that. I hold the tube and work out roughly where it's gonna go and mark it by moving my finger to where I wanna cut it and then I give it a snip xD Too poor for a sharpie atm lol.


dude, that's exactly what I did. I moved my finger there, then when I cut it, I gave it a little bit of extra length for "just in case"


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rpm666*


Updated mine










you should just make a new post next time. ;-)


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

OMG it's HERE


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *junkyard00000* 
I have used a length of thick rope before, as you can curve it around and then hold it straight to get a decent measurement. Always over-estimate, as you're better off shaving off a few inches than have a length that you can't use because its too short.

rofl.. don't do like i did and screw up 1/2 your tubing and have to ghetto rig it up till you have more money for more tubing


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## hollandrob81

Heres mine before








[/IMG]

and after







[/IMG]










i know its not the neatest lol, but its gonna have to do for now lol


----------



## Vermillion

Did you really need all those elbows? lol


----------



## mr-Charles

......a REAL Beaut-y there, 88EVGAFTW ! !







Luv your cable management, NEW Reserv. and
the complete H2O system for showing & your Rigg,.......just " _*AWESOME*_ " ! ! !
{ my 1 question is of the "T-Line" for showing in your pic>>> is that the "correct" place
of location OR, of *your* choice of placement??? [ just curious, no pun against or meant of]

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

The T line is for draining only, not for fill, unless I turned the case upside down
















Everyone think I use it to fill /facepalm/ clearly a T line at the bottom is self explanatory...it is a drain.


----------



## Spawn-Inc

wow, hollandrob81 wayyyyy to many elbows in there. and ditch the nasty TT crap.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

The Thermaltake water kits have a high failure rate. I fortunately have not owned one however I did dismantle a TT kit that had an enormous crack in the acrylic due to poor manufacturing. Those elbow joints will hinder your flow fairly substantially too unless your pump is incredibly powerful.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc*


well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.

Specs:
Swiftech MCP655-b
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCW60
Swiftech MicroRes v2
Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
18x High Speed Yate loons.











ummmmmmmmmm







wow that thing is amazing xD


----------



## OutlawPiper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


OMG it's HERE
















































































You didn't waste anytime getting that in there, did you?! Looks nice!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

^^^^i have that pump im my brothers computer


----------



## DannyHvE

Just finished building my first water cooling setup into my Raven 2 case. Here's some pictures and temperatures.

I'm cooling an i7 920 @ 4ghz + 5870s in CF @ 1000/1250 with a single loop.










Mounted a tube reservoir on the front of the case with the fan controller below it.










Theres a TFC Xchanger 480 radiator with 8x 1850rpm Gentle Typhoon fans (push/pull) on the back side panel. It works very well. I just have to pull the fan controller out of the front to remove the side panel.


















CPU idle temps @ 4ghz with HT off










CPU load temps with Prime95 blend test










5870 in CF @ 1000/1250 load with Vantage (reaches 36C/32C)










Ran into some leaks because I had to use some crappy fittings with tie wraps due to a miscalculation with the number of needed fittings. Also discovered that bitpower compression fittings don't fit everywhere







bastards...

Anyway, I'm happy with the results.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Thundergod989

Damn the 5870/5970's love watercooling.

+props to bundy for the good product shots







(More info would be nice tho).


----------



## ShortySmalls

is it just me or is the banner gone on the front page. shows the photobucket thing that says bandwith exceded.


----------



## mfb412

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls* 
is it just me or is the banner gone on the front page. shows the photobucket thing that says bandwith exceded.

pardon that, my gamespot avatar has been seen over 60000 times in one month so i exceeded the bandwidth, i'll re upload it so photobucket will stop being so picky.

Kevin, change the banner to this link will ya


----------



## lowkickqop

Here's a picture of mine in the early stages.

BIX 360, Sycthe Kaze 2000RPM, SWiftech Micro Res v2, Swiftech MCP 655, Swiftech GTZ is now installed, AquaXtreme GPU waterblock is now attached. Hope to be replacing tubing soon.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I will have my classified next week, and hope to get a block for it soon.


----------



## despisedicon63

Core i5 750 @ 3.6GHz
4GB DDR3 Corsair Dominator @ 1800MHz
Cooler Master HAF 932
Swiftech 7/16" ID Tubing
Swiftech MCP55-B Pump
Swiftech Micro Res Rev2
Swiftech QP 240 Rad
































































Any suggestions??


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Nice, that green water looks really nice, I like it. Makes me wanna go back to Swiftech Hydrx coolant.

more pics






































































this is only using the cathode lights, 100 ISO speed and +2 exposure on this camara


























The reflection in the stop fitting is my hand














to light up the fitting


----------



## Sangko

Umm, thought I'd drop by and join. Before the flaming, I'm using parts from two Thermaltake PW850i kits which I've found to be cooling my system quite well. At full load on my overclocked Wolfdale processor (3.5 GHZ from 2.8 GHZ), I'm only going up 17 degrees from idle. Yes, I know that some people have had bad experiences with TT, but personally I've been pretty lucky with them. Anyway here are the pics.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

thanks for the banner again!


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sangko* 
Umm, thought I'd drop by and join. Before the flaming, I'm using parts from two Thermaltake PW850i kits which I've found to be cooling my system quite well. At full load on my overclocked Wolfdale processor (3.5 GHZ from 2.8 GHZ), I'm only going up 17 degrees from idle. Yes, I know that some people have had bad experiences with TT, but personally I've been pretty lucky with them. Anyway here are the pics.

Hey if it works it works!


----------



## Sangko

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS* 
Hey if it works it works!

Thanks for that, I've been fearing the flames if I were to post (took me around a week before deciding to post).


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

May I join? I've got a modded H50.


----------



## Lelouch vi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DannyHvE* 
Just finished building my first water cooling setup into my Raven 2 case. Here's some pictures and temperatures.

I'm cooling an i7 920 @ 4ghz + 5870s in CF @ 1000/1250 with a single loop.










Mounted a tube reservoir on the front of the case with the fan controller below it.










Theres a TFC Xchanger 480 radiator with 8x 1850rpm Gentle Typhoon fans (push/pull) on the back side panel. It works very well. I just have to pull the fan controller out of the front to remove the side panel.


















CPU idle temps @ 4ghz with HT off










CPU load temps with Prime95 blend test










5870 in CF @ 1000/1250 load with Vantage (reaches 36C/32C)










Ran into some leaks because I had to use some crappy fittings with tie wraps due to a miscalculation with the number of needed fittings. Also discovered that bitpower compression fittings don't fit everywhere







bastards...

Anyway, I'm happy with the results.

Hi, that is a big set up =]
if you do some mods you might be able to fit the 480 inside ur case


----------



## studiovpc

Here is mine:

Cpu loop parts:

Eheim Power Station II 600 12V pump + res
Heat Killer 3.0 LT LGA1366 block + backplate
Magicool Xtreme Triple 360 rad
Masterkleer 1/2 ID tubing
Phobya compression fittings + angled fittings

GPU loop parts:

TT P400 pump
Swiftech Komodo GTX285 full cover block
Magicool Xtreme Dual 240 rad
Delrin TEE T-Line
Phobya compression fittings + angled fittings
Masterkleer 1/2 ID tubing
Fill port





































more photos and worklog here http://www.flickr.com/photos/studiovpc/sets/, also here are the picture of my previous system, but the WC parts are the same ones used in this one....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## melantha

whats the general rule on airflow for a top mounted radiator? do you want air being pulled in or pushed out of the case?


----------



## studiovpc

pushed out, because hot air tends to go up


----------



## DannyHvE

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lelouch vi* 
Hi, that is a big set up =]
if you do some mods you might be able to fit the 480 inside ur case









There's no point in putting that rad inside the case. The advantage of having it outside is optimal airflow, and it really doesn't obstruct anything. I still have 2x 180mm intake and 1x 120mm outtake fans inside the case to get the residual hot air out, and blowing air across the backplates of the graphics cards and NB. I don't think I could have solved this problem any more efficient with a single loop.


----------



## melantha

after having to drain the loop and take out the Y line to the fill port and turn all the rad fans to blow out this is what i got so far.
any suggestions will be helpful
i plan to add a drain line on the res right below the in line from the cpu


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *melantha* 








after having to drain the loop and take out the Y line to the fill port and turn all the rad fans to blow out this is what i got so far.
any suggestions will be helpful
i plan to add a drain line on the res right below the in line from the cpu

I am digging that color scheme. +Rep


----------



## melantha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS* 
I am digging that color scheme. +Rep

the entire idea is monochrome i just need to order the white ccfls to put inside to make the parts pop


----------



## Mikeyfly300

I just assembled yesterday




























after 1 hour of prime 95 @ 4.2 ghz


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Liselotte

Here is mine: Heatkiller 3.0, MPC355, XSPC RX240


----------



## melantha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liselotte* 
Here is mine: Heatkiller 3.0, MPC355, XSPC RX240

hey liselotte how are your NB temps?

my crosshair runs really hot at around 45(c)idle in bios i havnt loaded W7 yet been waiting on my other 3 hdds to come in to setup raid
im hoping that once w7 is loaded it drops a little


----------



## Liselotte

around 44C*


----------



## Messymitch503

I call it cloudy with a chance of blue.


----------



## melantha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liselotte*


around 44C*


well i just did some reading and found out that asus doesnt like to tighten there HSs all the way... so if your NB heatsink is screwed in just shove a phillips head in there and tighten it a bit more my temps were spiking around 59 idle and now after i tightened it the NB temp stay below 37


----------



## Liselotte

Quote:


Originally Posted by *melantha* 
well i just did some reading and found out that asus doesnt like to tighten there HSs all the way... so if your NB heatsink is screwed in just shove a phillips head in there and tighten it a bit more my temps were spiking around 59 idle and now after i tightened it the NB temp stay below 37

that explans why the HS is a lil loose. when i touch it it was so freaking hot that it almost burn my finger! Thanks


----------



## melantha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liselotte* 
that explans why the HS is a lil loose. when i touch it it was so freaking hot that it almost burn my finger! Thanks

after you tighten your hs let me know about your temps im tempted to send asus an email asking them to either include this in the manual or a slip inside the box saying to tighten screws


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Messymitch503*


Here we go. I call it cloudy with a chance of blue. I'll updaste some temps and OC in a little bit, enjoy!










Nice, I like it!


----------



## MacG32

Swiftech H20-220 APEX ULTRA Liquid Cooled CPU & GPU

MCW60 universal block GPU - Rigged to fit
MC14 Ramsinks
MC21 mosfet heatsinks

Apogee CPU water-block - Rigged to fit

MCR220 radiator with pre-installed Radbox
2x COOLER MASTER R4-C2R-20AC-GP 120mm Case Fans
MCP655-B pump
MCRES Micro R2 reservoir

PC ICE Non-Conductive Water Cooling Coolant

Thermaltake Flow Tx Plus Flow meter with Temperature Indicator CL-W0138 - Garbage


----------



## IntelFloyd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *melantha* 
whats the general rule on airflow for a top mounted radiator? do you want air being pulled in or pushed out of the case?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *studiovpc* 
pushed out, because hot air tends to go up

From the few tests that ive done in my case having the fans pulling through the rad into the case gave the best results.
"hot air rises" doesnt matter when you have fans to move the air where you want.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## junkyard00000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelFloyd* 
"hot air rises" doesnt matter when you have fans to move the air where you want.

This. "Convection" doesn't happen fast enough to make an impact.


----------



## IntelFloyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *junkyard00000*


This. "Convection" doesn't happen fast enough to make an impact.


Too bad a TON of people use the "hot air rises" theory.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Well even if the hot air does rise I would rather have the fans blow cold air down through the rad. ;-)


----------



## MacG32

Where do you post a working log at?


----------



## Messymitch503

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MacG32*


Once it's all ready, I'll post the pictures of it here.







Where do you post a working log at?


Under the Intel-General or AMD-General section there is a build log sub-section


----------



## MacG32

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Messymitch503*


Under the Intel-General or AMD-General section there is a build log sub-section


Thanks







I'm looking forward to moving into this century, computer-wise


----------



## Ezygroove




----------



## SgtHop

I believe I belong in this club now. Forgive the kinks, there was no way around them.




























Got Tygon tubing, DD 5.25 res, Laing D5 pump, Feser Xchanger radiator, Apogee GTZ block and the EK full coverage for my chipset ans MOSFET.


----------



## Ziox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SgtHop*


I believe I belong in this club now. Forgive the kinks, there was no way around them.


Zip ties are your best friend or Anti kink coils







other then that nice setup.


----------



## SgtHop

Hmm. Zip ties, that's a neat idea. I'll give it a go. I also have a couple extra of them clamps, would those work?

EDIT: Yes, they will.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Sweet. Is that part of your bench for block testing?


----------



## bundymania

Actually, iÂ´m testing this phobya quad rad for an update of my review

http://www.highflow.nl/forum/f18/rev...-roundup-4270/


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Oh, I get it. When do you expect to have updated the roundup of waterblocks? I recall you saying you were going to test Koolance's CPU-360.


----------



## bundymania

Well, itÂ´s not long ago, when i made the last update of this huge CPU Waterblock Roundup







(from 10 to 17 Blocks) I am planning to include 2-3 other Blocks besides the Koolance 360. The next release will be an Update of the Review with rads f. 140mm fans. IÂ´ll include the new Aquacomputer Revolution, the Black Ice SR1 140 and a brandnew Phobya 280 Rad and maybe one more, so just stay tuned


----------



## bundymania

FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Blue Reservoir










..and with some Leds:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I'm getting one in green







Can't wait!!


----------



## cyclometric

Please add me to the club!!
Finally finished setting up my first WC loop. Seems to be cooling OK, was running a Prime 95 and maxed @ 43 (used to max @ 50 on air) when I got a BSOD. I'm going to run it again @ stock speeds, then restart my overclocking from scratch.

I am using the following equipment for my first WC Loop (both rads were somehow included in my Open Box kit purchase, that's why I have 2 individual 120 rads instead of a single, larger one.


> *Pump*: Laing D5 (D5-38/810N, speeds 1-5), 1/2" built-in barbs*
> CPU Block*: TDX Universal w/ICD7, 1/2" fittings*
> Barbs*: Bitspower Matt Black 1/2" Fitting*
> Tubing*: 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Tygon 3603*
> Radiator #1*: Danger Den Black Ice Xtreme 120*
> Radiator #2*: Swiftech MCR-120 RES


I have the two radiators mounted in a big fat fan/shroud/rad sandwich. Sometime soon I'll probably mount them properly with a radbox, and swap the Swiftech 120 for a Double Heater Core, and great some 120x38 Panaflos, Deltas, or similar.



Final tinker that's on my mind is that I put an Anti-Cyclone Adapter on the inside of my reservoir intake port, and I think it's responsible for making a lot of noise and actually _causing_ more turbulence than it is preventing... Will have to drain & remove it to be sure of course. That'll be tonight's activity!

Here's a peek at my very rough setup, just wanted to be sure of no leaks 'n' such before putting side panel back on... Haven't even figured out how I'm going to mount the pump yet, so better pix will be forthcoming!


----------



## Lelouch vi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DannyHvE*


There's no point in putting that rad inside the case. The advantage of having it outside is optimal airflow, and it really doesn't obstruct anything. I still have 2x 180mm intake and 1x 120mm outtake fans inside the case to get the residual hot air out, and blowing air across the backplates of the graphics cards and NB. I don't think I could have solved this problem any more efficient with a single loop.


I understand, but i just like everything inside and being tidy =] 
why dun you put the last 180mm inside too, since you don't have anything much in there?


----------



## DannyHvE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lelouch vi*


I understand, but i just like everything inside and being tidy =] 
why dun you put the last 180mm inside too, since you don't have anything much in there?


Thats where the pump is.

I can understand the need for tidiness with a computer case, but I like the bulky and semi-open look, when its done properly that is. Also, it has a lot more cooling performance this way. I really wouldn't change a thing at this point. Looks and works great.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Oussal

Please add, first loop done =)

Koolance 360
EK FC-5850
Black Ice GTX 360 w/ 3x Gentletyphoons (1850rpm)
XSPC Dual 5.25 Bay Res top w/ MCP 355


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 









Absolutely beautiful. As soon as I get the money to redo my watercooling I'm getting one with a red and black helix.


----------



## just a noob

Freak accident just happened, so I'm out of a watercooled setup(back on my TRUE, and loud 9800gt cooler) lots of pictures, though:


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

wow, i guess that was pretty hot in there...
i hope it'll never happen to me....


----------



## Dobbie

Well it's only leak testing but here is my first loop.





































Parts list:
MCR220 Res Rad
MCB120 Rad box
MCP655
APOGEE GTZ
Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F (2)

So far no leaks and it's been about 14 hours. All the large bubbles have been removed but I still see some tiny ones in the stream . . . can you remove those or is there always going to be a bit of the tiny ones in the loop?

Oh and it's nice having an old PSU laying around to use for leak testing, that way I don't have to touch my rig until I'm installing it.


----------



## unknownSCL

If you "WCers" don't mind me asking. Whats the "needs" of fan shrouds? Does it help with the airflow or something?


----------



## yang88she

Quote:


Originally Posted by *unknownSCL* 
If you "WCers" don't mind me asking. Whats the "needs" of fan shrouds? Does it help with the airflow or something?









yes and noise caused by vibration


----------



## Sangko

Shrouds kill the deadspot created by the fans.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

@ just a noob - wow, that is pretty bad. did it allow water to leak on anything before it all shut off or where you lucky and just the pump is dead?

@ dobbie - what is giving your tubing that color?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

so where is the other port on that rad that you put the pump pushing into?

pretty cool shot.


----------



## Dobbie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated.

@ just a noob - wow, that is pretty bad. did it allow water to leak on anything before it all shut off or where you lucky and just the pump is dead?

@ dobbie - what is giving your tubing that color?


A little bit of Dexcool (Rad fluid) that I used for my coolant mixture.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated.

so where is the other port on that rad that you put the pump pushing into?

pretty cool shot.


IÂ´m a little magician









The other port is just a Water tap that is not shown on that pic and above the IN-Thread









IÂ´m thinking about the Words "Wasserhahn" and "Badewanne" but canÂ´t remember the english words without using an translator


----------



## MlbrottarN

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
http://www.abload.de/img/img_3468ljo5.jpg










You sir, have a leak!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## just a noob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated.

@ just a noob - wow, that is pretty bad. did it allow water to leak on anything before it all shut off or where you lucky and just the pump is dead?

@ dobbie - what is giving your tubing that color?


No, I left my computer on to do some updates(went to the doctors office where i found out I have a cold, an ear infection, and bronchitis). I have an open air setup, the pump decided to leave a nice scorch mark on my desk for me. And the best part of it all? Swiftech is deciding not to honor the warranty, because i used that EK top...


----------



## Dobbie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *just a noob*


No, I left my computer on to do some updates(went to the doctors office where i found out I have a cold, an ear infection, and bronchitis). I have an open air setup, the pump decided to leave a nice scorch mark on my desk for me. And the best part of it all? Swiftech is deciding not to honor the warranty, because i used that EK top...


Oh wow, that sux. I feel your pain on that one.


----------



## Vecte

Quote:



Originally Posted by *just a noob*


No, I left my computer on to do some updates(went to the doctors office where i found out I have a cold, an ear infection, and bronchitis). I have an open air setup, the pump decided to leave a nice scorch mark on my desk for me. And the best part of it all? Swiftech is deciding not to honor the warranty, because i used that EK top...


Wait, how did they know you used the top? There is no warranty seal on the pump, it's just a simple swap.


----------



## Spawn-Inc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yang88she* 
yes and noise caused by vibration

noise from air movement you mean...

unless you use rubber shrouds vibration will still happen.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dobbie* 
A little bit of Dexcool (Rad fluid) that I used for my coolant mixture.

any reason your using antifreeze when you don't need to?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *just a noob* 
No, I left my computer on to do some updates(went to the doctors office where i found out I have a cold, an ear infection, and bronchitis). I have an open air setup, the pump decided to leave a nice scorch mark on my desk for me. And the best part of it all? Swiftech is deciding not to honor the warranty, because i used that EK top...

weird, swiftech is usually good for rma's. i guess they think you killed it due to the top.


----------



## ira-k

I had one of the old orange impeller 18W DDC burn out on the PCB like that, just one little spot, nothing to that degree, the traces were popped out like that one though.

Theres a 5 year warranty on those pumps, get a hold of Michelle over at Swiftech. and get a new one. That doesn't look like any kind of water damage at all.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Dobbie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc*


any reason your using antifreeze when you don't need to?


Distilled water, my own mixture. I'm using that now until I can get silver coil and some biocide.


----------



## just a noob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
I had one of the old orange impeller 18W DDC burn out on the PCB like that, just one little spot, nothing to that degree, the traces were popped out like that one though.

Theres a 5 year warranty on those pumps, get a hold of Michelle over at Swiftech. and get a new one. That doesn't look like any kind of water damage at all.

They say that because i used my EK top on it, that the warranty is void


----------



## MeeksMan13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *just a noob*


They say that because i used my EK top on it, that the warranty is void










are you talking to someone random or michelle? cause michelle is pretty much awesome for this stuff. i'd be surprised if she refused an RMA cause you used a pump top


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*





















It's so hot here today so I'm loving this picture!!


----------



## just a noob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13* 
are you talking to someone random or michelle? cause michelle is pretty much awesome for this stuff. i'd be surprised if she refused an RMA cause you used a pump top

Michelle, here's a quote of the email:

Quote:

Angela B
Hello, I need to rma my pump, it seems that it has managed to burn itself out...

10:56 AM (10 hours ago)
Michelle Monasterio
Hello Angela, I have forwarded your email to our tech, Iâ€™ll let you know what...

12:19 PM (8 hours ago)

Reply

|
Michelle Monasterio
to me

show details 3:01 PM (6 hours ago)

Hello Angela,

I regret to inform you that the use of a third-party top voids the pump warranty.

Regards,

Michelle

Swiftech

151 West Victoria St.

Long Beach, CA 90805

Phone 310-7630336

Fax 310-763-7095

alternate email: [email protected]

www.swiftech.com

From: Angela B
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:56 AM
To: Michelle Monasterio
Subject: DDC 3.2 is dead

Hello, I need to rma my pump, it seems that it has managed to burn itself out(picture http://s595.photobucket.com/albums/t...4.jpg&newest=1 ). Will this be covered by warranty?


----------



## MeeksMan13

ask her why it voids the warranty. tell her that all it does is allow for better contact with the impeller which keeps the pump at a lower temperature and improves performance. so in reality, the better pump top is better. plus the stock top is removable, so removing it shouldn't void the warranty.


----------



## OutlawPiper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MeeksMan13*


ask her why it voids the warranty. tell her that all it does is allow for better contact with the impeller which keeps the pump at a lower temperature and improves performance. so in reality, the better pump top is better. plus the stock top is removable, so removing it shouldn't void the warranty.


Plus it comes with 3/8" barbs, and it seems that most people use 1/2 or 7/16" ID tubing, which would require a different top... right? (I'm still a n00b at WC'ing, so I may be wrong.)

I was planning on buying a 355 for the loop I'm putting together, but now I'm having second thoughts about going with a Swiftech pump because of that policy.


----------



## caraboose

Just upgraded the loop.
More details here:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-new-loop.html


----------



## Spawn-Inc

Nicely done caraboose! nice short loop, proper loop order, just to bad about the dye.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

IT-Service.be Casemodding, Watercooling & Computershop


----------



## LedFloyd

XSPC RX360 rad
Priomchill 1/2 id tubing
Heatkiller 3.0
MCP355 18w
XSPC dual bay res
3 x scythe ultra kaze 2000
Bitspower 4 x 90Â° Compression and 2 x normal compression
Primochill PC Pure
Zalman ZM-MFC 3 fan control

I have just changed the liquid to green, it was red


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

New white tubing







and Classified mombojombo.


----------



## ira-k

That white looks pretty good on it! I kind of like it...


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ira-k*


That white looks pretty good on it! I kind of like it...










You know you want some white tubing for yourself














and some comp fittings for ur rig


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

i like the black pearl on the side how did you do it?


----------



## ira-k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


You know you want some white tubing for yourself














*and some comp fittings for ur* rig






































I can't, my head might explode...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *just a noob*


They say that because i used my EK top on it, that the warranty is void










I hate to hear that, I really don't know who else you could go to there over it since she does the RMA's. Maybe a e-mail to Gabe might do something, I doubt it but you never know.


----------



## smartasien

wow i can't believe i have the same case 88evgaftw... I even painted it all black like u but still. Just wondering since u took out the HDD cages underneath wheres the HDDS??? did u stick them inside the 5.25'' bays? nvm i c em now.







how'd u bolt them down though? did u just do one side?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smartasien* 
wow i can't believe i have the same case 88evgaftw... I even painted it all black like u but still. Just wondering since u took out the HDD cages underneath wheres the HDDS??? did u stick them inside the 5.25'' bays? nvm i c em now.







how'd u bolt them down though? did u just do one side?

Antec 3.5" to 5.25" adapter, or you can go on ebay and search for HDD 5.25" adapters. They are a few bucks, around 5$ on ebay.


----------



## bundymania

Pics are 3 years old


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

lookin good 88evgaftw.


----------



## hy897t

Agreed, evga your system looks great









Also I have updated my rig since I last posted, I will take some new pics as soon as I cut out the side panel for a nice window


----------



## Spawn-Inc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Pics are 3 years old










spikes look nice. custom?


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
spikes look nice. custom?

Look like these to me: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2921


----------



## Spawn-Inc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


Look like these to me: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2921


yup looks like that to me too, but i was talking about the spikes on the cpu and chipset water blocks.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
yup looks like that to me too, but i was talking about the spikes on the cpu and chipset water blocks.

LOL I didn't even notice those. . .browsing on my ipod made the LEDs look like spikes.


----------



## bundymania

Today iÂ´m feeling blue


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc*


spikes look nice. custom?


yep, bought it from an ebay dealer - "killernieten" in german


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## burksdb

i'm in


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated


hehe i'm curious to find out how many 'updated' posts you've done so far. must get tiring after awhile.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


hehe i'm curious to find out how many 'updated' posts you've done so far. must get tiring after awhile.










lots.  (I have 337 posts in the thread total before this post)

It isn't too bad though because I enjoy seeing all the awesome builds.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


lots.  (I have 337 posts in the thread total before this post)

It isn't too bad though because I enjoy seeing all the awesome builds.










haha nice! Yeah, same here. I'm sub'd and watch this thread daily.. I love viewing all of these cool mods and also the parts that bundymania posts


----------



## snow cakes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


You know you want some white tubing for yourself














and some comp fittings for ur rig






































you can't get enough can you


----------



## bundymania

Today, i have a Laing/Swiftech Pump + Bitspower Top to show


----------



## Syrillian

^









"Bravo!"


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## IT.Wall

I am in

Big water 735 slowly replacing parts


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Lelouch vi

Hi all, 
Updated the Loop in the Raven 2, enjoy and welcome to comments and question


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Pheros

Lelouch that setup looks nice man.


----------



## Lelouch vi

Thanks Pheros, that the best I can do with that case without huge mod


----------



## justinb6003

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zhevra* 
Mother of god...

*****


----------



## bundymania

Looks like there is time for another update now


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## c49

So much eyecandy in here...this thread makes me want to spend so much money on my loop


----------



## haste266

still using mcp655 and mcr220 i got in a swiftech kit about 4 1/2 years ago... =D

just finished this up over the weekend. went for silence. dont care about flow...

mcp655 running in between 2-3. fans all controlled via pwm to ramp up when cpu and/or chipset gets above 50c.

now, if there was a way to quiet down the 5870 at idle...20% fan isnt slow enough!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## liveify

Quote:


Originally Posted by *haste266* 
still using mcp655 and mcr220 i got in a swiftech kit about 4 1/2 years ago... =D

just finished this up over the weekend. went for silence. dont care about flow...

mcp655 running in between 2-3. fans all controlled via pwm to ramp up when cpu and/or chipset gets above 50c.

now, if there was a way to quiet down the 5870 at idle...20% fan isnt slow enough!


\\

I have the same deal with my 285 25% made the fan scream, and 30% was still to loud, waterblock should come friday.


----------



## [email protected]'D

whoop whoop Just ordered my stinger V8 I'll post pics once I get it, and Installed *1.5ish weeks from now*


----------



## Dobbie

Hopefully ordering my Coolermaster ATCS840 here soon so my loop will be getting a little revamp . . . I can't wait


----------



## Yukss

my rig.


----------



## FalloutBoy

Shes been all done for a couple weeks now so I thought it was time for an update on April.






















































And with some lights though most were taken out a few days after being put in! So not the lighting fan.


----------



## DannyHvE

@ falloutboy

Thats one of the neatest looking water cooling setups I've seen.


----------



## bundymania

Big Meeting today


----------



## Orestes

Kind of hard to follow falloutboy.

My first attempt with WC - I kind of threw everything where it would fit since this PC has been sitting in pieces on a table for about a week, I probably could have done better if I'd thought about it a bit harder -and- actually had a decent set of tools and a dremel. I'll undoubtedly end up streamlining everything later.

I also am fully aware that my rad does not have any fans - waiting on them to arrive (should be this afternoon). In the meantime I just lay the case's 230mm top fan on top of the rad and it gives it a little bit of cooling (only like 1-3C







) Its ghettofied right now (duct tape on the res mount b/c I broke it







). Maybe that'll be the name of my rig!


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy* 
Shes been all done for a couple weeks now so I thought it was time for an update on April.


















I like the Red psu sticker really finishes it off, how did you do it?









Oh and nice setup


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
whoop whoop Just ordered my stinger V8 I'll post pics once I get it, and Installed *1.5ish weeks from now*

be sure to stop by the stinger thread and post some pics linky in sig


----------



## Exidous




----------



## shredzy

Very nice dude!

Why have the fans pulling into the case?


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
I like the Red psu sticker really finishes it off, how did you do it? :Thumb:

Oh and nice setup

Is that a trick question... I thought you were the one who finished it off.


----------



## bundymania

...some older pics


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

add me
IandH Stealthres 175>Swiftech 355 with XSPC V3 acrylic top>XSPC RS240>EK FC-5850>XSPC RS360>Swiftech GTZ


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
be sure to stop by the stinger thread and post some pics linky in sig









Ohh don't worry I will, might be bit longer though as I am going to have to wait to receive something off nafljhy aswell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy* 
Is that a trick question... I thought you were the one who finished it off.

Haha yeah was just messing, I new it was me. But yeah your loop does look hellishly awsome. And another question what do you think of them ekwb rads. I was thinking of picking one up

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
...some older pics

http://www.abload.de/img/cuplexb5p3.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/g80_goldcuqg.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_59110u8t.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/littledevil2e6l8.jpg

and bundy I like seeing all the things you post, as much as the next person. But It might be nice for other members if you actually posted/named what the products are in your pics like the OP stated in the first post here

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Well, here it is! To join the club simply post *pics of your rig* and *a list of your gear* and I will add you to the list.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
bundy I like seeing all the things you post, as much as the next person. But It might be nice for other members if you actually posted/named what the products are in your pics like the OP stated in the first post here

Yes, I would really appreciate that. It would also be nice if you could try not to post the same pics twice. You have posted that tech bench 4-5 times now...

update in progress. Updated


----------



## studiovpc

ok, I have changed some things in my previous build, this one looks way better....

Heat Killer 3.0 LT cpu block
Swiftech Komodo GTX 285 full cover block
Phobya DC12-400 pump
Magicool XTREME triple + dual radiators
Phobya 19/13mm compression fittings
Phobya 45 degrees angled fittings
Alphacool UV Reactive blue tubing
T Line + fillport
Akasa Ultra Quiet 120mm Emperor Blue fans














































that's all for now...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Exidous

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shredzy* 
Very nice dude!

Why have the fans pulling into the case?


To pull in cooler air from the top through the rad rather than pre-warmed air from inside the case. My temps dropped about 2-3c doing that.


----------



## shredzy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Exidous* 
To pull in cooler air from the top through the rad rather than pre-warmed air from inside the case. My temps dropped about 2-3c doing that.

Ahhh I see, ill guess ill do that when i redo my loop!

Do you get a lot of dust?


----------



## Exidous

I only just changed out the fans about 3 days ago. There is dust in there but for a while I had the side off... You'll get the standard whitish powder on the rad's and vent but nothing you can really do about that.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bindusar* 
Here's mine, a little homemade deal that does the job...could be better
but could be worse.

D-Tek Fusion
Swiftech MCP655-B
Koolance Inline Reservoir
2-120mm Thermaltake Thunderblades
Custom 1/2" Coiled Copper Tube Heat Exchange










 moar pics looks epic =D and how does that coil work


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
Haha yeah was just messing, I new it was me. But yeah your loop does look hellishly awsome. And another question what do you think of them ekwb rads. I was thinking of picking one up

I love them. They look good, are built strong and packaged well. Price was pretty good too.


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy* 
I love them. They look good, are built strong and packaged well. Price was pretty good too.

yeah Im torn between that or the feser xchanger the only real difference I can see is the width, the ek is 47mm where the feser is 75mm and obviously the price difference...what todo what todo


----------



## MlbrottarN

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
yeah Im torn between that or the feser xchanger the only real difference I can see is the width, the ek is 47mm where the feser is 75mm and obviously the price difference...what todo what todo

The EK-rads are nice rads, they are cheaper though smaller than a Feser, but for it's price (atleast in europe) you can get 2 EK-rads for the price of one Feser


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MlbrottarN* 
The EK-rads are nice rads, they are cheaper though smaller than a Feser, but for it's price (atleast in europe) you can get 2 EK-rads for the price of one Feser

I can get the ek for Â£36 and the feser for Â£51 soo not quiet 2 for the same price as 1, but is the feser worth the extra Â£15?

I have seen a few comparisons showing the feser against a black ice gtx and it produces 2-3 c lower temps.

and yes 2-3c is a lot imo


----------



## R00ST3R

I'll join. Just built 9 days ago.


----------



## MlbrottarN

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
I can get the ek for Â£36 and the feser for Â£51 soo not quiet 2 for the same price as 1, but is the feser worth the extra Â£15?

I have seen a few comparisons showing the feser against a black ice gtx and it produces 2-3 c lower temps.

and yes 2-3c is a lot imo

The feser will perform better than the EK, but for the price you could atleast get a 360+240 EK and that whould probably outperform the feser


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MlbrottarN* 
The feser will perform better than the EK, but for the price you could atleast get a 360+240 EK and that whould probably outperform the feser

a 360+240 would be overkill for my *AMD* cpu only loop.

It might have to be the feser then..oh god choosing which one is hard


----------



## x9999

.


----------



## bundymania

Little Teaser for the upcoming Tubing Comparison


----------



## Chicken Patty

and it's bundymania with his awesome teasers. How are ya buddy, long time no talk?


----------



## bundymania

Hi dude, I got a virus in me, coz of the remaining f*cking cold weather here in Germany, rest is business as usual


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Vermillion

Got my new GPU blocks installed









XSPC RX360
Swiftech 355
Bitspower Mini tank
Enzotech Sapphire
2x Heatkiller GPU-XÂ² G200




























Here is what it used to look like.


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Hi dude, I got a virus in me, coz of the remaining f*cking cold weather here in Germany, rest is business as usual









just a heads up, bypassing the swear filter is against the TOS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vermillion* 









v.nice


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Hi dude, I got a virus in me, coz of the remaining f*cking cold weather here in Germany, rest is business as usual










Dammit man, hope you get better soon bro, i'll see you around









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vermillion*


Got my new GPU blocks installed









XSPC RX360
Swiftech 355
Bitspower Mini tank
Enzotech Sapphire
2x Heatkiller GPU-XÂ² G200

Here is what it used to look like.


Very clean and nicely done. Looks great


----------



## SwishaMane

Here's my sig rig, mobo getting ready for RMA tho,









  

I got new RAM tho now, no up to date pics, lol.
Also, custom block is on its way still, not hooked up.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Here's my sig rig, mobo getting ready for RMA tho,









  

I got new RAM tho now, no up to date pics, lol.
Also, custom block is on its way still, not hooked up.



Loving the Frozen Q Res







What happened to the mobo?


----------



## Liighthead

wow lot of massive builds xD all perdddyyyy

any sff ones?


----------



## hy897t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vermillion*


Got my new GPU blocks installed


















I love those HK GPU blocks they look great.

+Rep man


----------



## Willhemmens

More stuff incoming:
I have EK working on a full motherboard WaterBlock for me.


----------



## Forsaken_id

^^Nice.

I just removed my Gigabyte covers and it dropped my Northbridge temp 2C.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


^^Nice.

I just removed my Gigabyte covers and it dropped my Northbridge temp 2C.



















Its a good thing to do, i really don't understand why they put so big covers on.

Looking at getting a Heatkiller.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Its a good thing to do, i really don't understand why they put so big covers on.

Looking at getting a Heatkiller.


Agreed. They could brand the boards in a more productive way. 
Also, I like my Heat Killer.


----------



## hy897t

Hmm I may have to take off the covers on my UD5 as well. How hard is it for them to come off?


----------



## el gappo

They are stuck on with double sided tape. Just wedge a screw driver in or give it a yank


----------



## ltulod

add me.
on sig.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltulod*


add me.
on sig.


You have to post pics in here or he won't add you


----------



## psychrage

Add me.

Heatkiller 3.0
Black Ice GT Stealth 360
EK Multioption 150
MCP655


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ltulod* 
add me.
on sig.

sorry, but you must post some pics in this thread first. ;-)


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


More stuff incoming:
I have EK working on a full motherboard WaterBlock for me.



















Dude willhemmen, your wc rig is soo AWESOME BEAUTIFUL, nice set up & cable management!


----------



## ProcessorBeast09

Enzotech Sapphire
CoolerMaster Viva GPU Block
Koolance PMP-300
3/8 OD Tubing, 1/2 OD Tubing
Black Ice Gt 360mm Rad
CoolerMaster 140mm Rad


----------



## liveify




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liveify*












3 6pin pci-e


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


3 6pin pci-e

















It's an EVGA GTX 285 Classified.


----------



## ridn3y

new pics


----------



## RushMore1205

ridn3y said:


> new pics
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> wow that is so beautiful man, congrats and props to you


----------



## Chicken Patty

just when I had gotten over ridneys rig at XS, he posts it here. Dammit


----------



## xmisery

@ridn3y: simply beautiful!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Dude willhemmen, your wc rig is soo AWESOME BEAUTIFUL, nice set up & cable management!










Lol, its not that special. Cable management is poor at the minute because I was benching so I had fans blowing over everything, the whole system needs to be re-cabled.

Thanks.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Elblonko

Just finished my first loop

My core i5's have dropped from a stock of 35C to 23-25C

My Load Temps are now hovering between 35C-40C

Time to start OC'ing

Temps









Fan Controller, XSPC Dual Top/Res Combo









Case Door Closed









Case Door Open









Drain Tube









I am now addicted


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Temperature drops are what we all love to see and hear about







Those are some great temps on your loop!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Another sexy 800D!! Good job on the loop and great temps I must say


----------



## bono2099

Here is my WC single loop build... Project is not fully finished.

Few sleeving here and there, more UV lighting and still awaiting for my new puppy to arrive EK Supreme HF Acetal Plexi CPU Block









It will replace the highly restrictive Enzotech Luna rev. a block

Any feedbacks are very much appreciated...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## liberalelephant

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ridn3y*


new pics





























We need MOAR PICS of that beast ridney!


----------



## icyman077

Here is my original loop.










Here is the more improved loop.









Swiftech Apogee XT
Hardware Labs Xtreme 360
Bitspower Mosfet Block
Bitspower NB/SB Block
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech Micro Res


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *icyman077*


Here is my original loop.

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/5679/dscn0916u.jpg

Here is the more improved loop.









Swiftech Apogee XT
Hardware Labs Xtreme 360
Bitspower Mosfet Block
Bitspower NB/SB Block
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech Micro Res

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/9821/dscn0963b.jpg
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/8241/dscn0967xh.jpg
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/1648/dscn0971p.jpg


Would you be able to resize those pictures? I have a good connection but I'm sure there are many here whose connections would cry very much over the photos


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## icyman077

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Would you be able to resize those pictures? I have a good connection but I'm sure there are many here whose connections would cry very much over the photos









Updated! Sorry wasn't thinking straight. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *icyman077* 
Updated! Sorry wasn't thinking straight. Thanks for the heads up.

No worries







You have a really nice setup going there.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ridn3y* 
new pics












































































































































































































I can haz big a$$$ radiator?


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ridn3y* 
new pics









That is so glorious!


----------



## wermad

hey guys, would like to be added the WC club. Im in the process of a new wc set up, got a haf 932 w/ a 360 rad on top and another 360 custom mounted inside front.

here is a shot, i have a koolance res comprising of a 240 and 120 bodies,
Fedex just stopped by and dropped off my danger den fill port (red) and koolance quick disconnect couplers.


----------



## triggs75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bono2099*


Here is my WC single loop build... Project is not fully finished.

Few sleeving here and there, more UV lighting and still awaiting for my new puppy to arrive EK Supreme HF Acetal Plexi CPU Block









It will replace the highly restrictive Enzotech Luna rev. a block

Any feedbacks are very much appreciated...










Great loop set up, very clean. What is that on the side of your lower HDD cage, fan controller board?

Chad


----------



## Heatkiller

NEW ADDED Sleeved GPU Wires + Added Switches ^^


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Heatkiller* 
NEW ADDED Sleeved GPU Wires + Added Switches ^^











































wow men, that rig is impressive..!!!


----------



## jcf1

Okay time for me to get in on this. i've had watercooling for about a month now. Check it out.

























































The rad is on back and the wires leading to it are wire-tied

Also as sig states, I have dominator GTs and their fan running in there now.


----------



## bono2099

Quote:


Originally Posted by *triggs75* 
Great loop set up, very clean. What is that on the side of your lower HDD cage, fan controller board?

Chad

Thanks man 8) I tried all kinds of configuration to keep it clean and simple for a single loop but I'm considering adding another BlackIce SR-1 120mm Rad at the bottom compartment.

Yeah, it is a pump/fan speed controller board by Koolance (CTR-SPD10). It's neat as you can increase/decrease flow on the fly (so to speak).

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=750

Though at the moment it's set at high speed due to bad flow rate








The impeller on the EK-Bay Spin reservoir is spining with great difficulty so I am guessing it is the CPU block causing the restrictions... Hence why the upcoming ugprade to the EK supreme Hf.


----------



## TempestxPR

i want to start a custom water cooling loop for my i5 but have no idea on how to do it or what parts to buy is there a tutorial around?


----------



## mfb412

Sticky in the watercooling section i believe


----------



## bundymania

Nice Feature:










No more destroyed Rad. when using screws, that are to long


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

dont have space to mount hdd! solved, door still closes








had to rma my koolance mosfet block, have to say Im very impressed w/ turn-around of 48 hrs for rma, should arrive this weekend.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Kriztoffer

Radiators and pumps are overrated.









Kitchen overclockers







Got that Celly 347 @ 5.3Ghz 1.6v, our water holds 5c at wintertime.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kriztoffer*


Radiators and pumps are overrated.









Kitchen overclockers







Got that Celly 347 @ 5.3Ghz 1.6v, our water holds 5c at wintertime.



















Haha, thats pretty slick!







Just be careful not to spill any coffee on the motherboard in the morning!


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kriztoffer*


Radiators and pumps are overrated.









Kitchen overclockers







Got that Celly 347 @ 5.3Ghz 1.6v, our water holds 5c at wintertime.











LOL Win!!


----------



## [email protected]'D

fstfrddy just gave me a sneak peak of where he is at with the progress of my block.

Thought I would share it here.










Stinger V8 <3


----------



## Tiger S.

That's nice Foxy.. Just got mine in from overseas, it stayed in customs for almost a month. Nickel instead of Delrin lowered the temps 8Â°c.. Now waiting for the board/mosfit blocks.


----------



## Losmile

So, ive found my Final Setup:

These are the Components:

Case: Fully Modded Xigmatek Asgard Miditower
Whole Case [email protected] is overlayed with Leather. The white Leather
is real leather the black is synthetic leather.
New Build Front with Drivemod and glimming pushbutton.

*System:*
Intel i7 [email protected]@ EK Supreme HF
Gigabyte P55 DS4 @stock (is too cold to cool with water







)
[email protected]/[email protected] 4870X2 Complete
Corsair HX520 Power Supply
8gb Corsair DHX [email protected] 
1x 500gb Seagate 7200.12
2x 1TB Seagate 7200.12 Raid-0

*Radiators:*
Ground: EK Water Blocks EK-CoolStream RAD XT [email protected] Noiseblocker XL1
Top: Aquacomputer airplex PRO [email protected] Noiseblocker XL1
Back: Aquacomputer airplex XT [email protected] Noiseblocker XL1

Aquaero behind the front
Pump: Laing Ultra with Watercool AGP-Top
Tube: Primochill Primoflexx Pro 16/10
13mm Highflow hose nozzles
Aquacomputer Flow Meter High Flow

Waterflow:

[email protected]% 215 l/h
[email protected]% 105 l/h

Watertemperature is Idle 25Â°C while the Noiseblockers are running @300upms and Roomtemperature is @24Â°C

@load Watertemperature is 28Â°C Noiseblockers @450 upms









What i mostly like about this Build is, that i can still can go with it to a Lan Party cause it is all build internal but it has almost much Power to cool all the stuff absolutely silent.

Now the New Pics:






















































































































Sorry for this huge Post, i hope you like my new System and it is worthy
to be presented here









Bye

Losmile


----------



## xmisery

Losmile, very beautifully done! Love it!


----------



## Losmile

Thanks alot.

Cu


----------



## DannyHvE

@ kriztoffer

WOW..

@losmile

WOW..

Some pics can even be made into wallpapers. They are that good.


----------



## Losmile

Oh thanks, if you want, i could make some Wallpapers.
Which are the sizes you need?

Edit:



I hope it is alright









Cya


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kriztoffer*


Radiators and pumps are overrated.









Kitchen overclockers







Got that Celly 347 @ 5.3Ghz 1.6v, our water holds 5c at wintertime.



















and look who we have here







mate. nice bench setup









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Losmile*


Oh thanks, if you want, i could make some Wallpapers.
Which are the sizes you need?

Edit:



I hope it is alright









Cya



beautiful rig bro, stunning!


----------



## slickwilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


and look who we have here







mate. nice bench setup









beautiful rig bro, stunning!



If you have a water meter that Kitchen sink cooler could get expensive


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Losmile* 











Oh my, are you trying to get into mdpc? I'd recomend you.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Oh my, are you trying to get into mdpc? I'd recomend you.


Only one thing left to see to be sure we can recommend him, the backside of the mobo tray


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## timmimd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Losmile*












what is that black thing? Is it a pump? AMAZING setup btw i think you are definitely million dollar pc worthy


----------



## Losmile

Thanks to all for these nice words.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Only one thing left to see to be sure we can recommend him, the backside of the mobo tray









Theres not much to see







, just white Leather










@timmimd

This is the Flowmeter from Aquacomputer:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_...oducts_id=2294

I thing it fits there well.

Cya


----------



## carrion

@ Losmile
Mate (for second time) this is an awesome result! I have only one argument about the flow sensor and for the positioning of that.. It blocks the view of a really worthy setup!
keep up!!!









P.S also these are really good photo shots! what about camera and technic?


----------



## Chicken Patty

ok def. MDPC worthy, submit it!!!


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


ok def. MDPC worthy, submit it!!!


I would but I cant find the gallery with all his pics. I can only submit one url. That's the first time I've seen leather on a case and it sure as hell beats that ugly denim one which is the second newest on mdpc.


----------



## GrannyOnSushi

1st WC








nothing special








next project : sleeving, WCing video cards(waiting for the 2nd one)








[/URL][/IMG]








[/URL][/IMG]








[/URL][/IMG]








[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## Losmile

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


I would but I cant find the gallery with all his pics. I can only submit one url. That's the first time I've seen leather on a case and it sure as hell beats that ugly denim one which is the second newest on mdpc.


Thanks alot









Here are all Pics in one url:

http://www.overclock.net/8725403-post1617.html

Cya


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
I would but I cant find the gallery with all his pics. I can only submit one url. That's the first time I've seen leather on a case and it sure as hell beats that ugly denim one which is the second newest on mdpc.

Heck yes it does. Have you seen Project FLOW by sniipedogg?

OMG check this one out



















































http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys.../cygnus-x1.htm

@ grannyonsushi

Nice HAF, looking good


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GrannyOnSushi*


1st WC








nothing special








next project : sleeving, WCing video cards(waiting for the 2nd one)








[/URL][/IMG]


Looks really good man, especially for your first.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Losmile*


Thanks alot









Here are all Pics in one url:

http://www.overclock.net/8725403-post1617.html

Cya


Oh yeah duh. Well you got a vote from me.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Heck yes it does. Have you seen Project FLOW by sniipedogg?

OMG check this one out



















































http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys.../cygnus-x1.htm

@ grannyonsushi

Nice HAF, looking good










Yup, easily the best one on that site right now. I remember following the build log for that on some other site. The guy is a genius. Do you guys know of any other sites like mdpc that focus on show casing really nice pc's?


----------



## Capwn

Got my new case, tygon tubing, and new rad. 
















Kevin this is my 3rd post.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Looks really good man, especially for your first.









Oh yeah duh. Well you got a vote from me.









Yup, easily the best one on that site right now. I remember following the build log for that on some other site. The guy is a genius. Do you guys know of any other sites like mdpc that focus on show casing really nice pc's?


That build log must be impressive. IF you can find it please link me to it









I don't know of any other sites off the top of my head


----------



## wermad

For sli/crossfire watercooling, Im unsure what is the best way to set up my blocks. should I run both blocks simultaneously (using tube/stubby fittings sli/crossfire connector ) or in sequence (flows from one block and then the second). Im worried about back pressure if i run simultaneously. tnx


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys, real quick, what size threads do the swiftech rads use? It is M3 right?


----------



## junkyard00000

"M3.5 threaded fan and case-mounting holes"
It's listed under "specifications" (below the graphs) on Swiftech's website.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

alright, thanks and +rep.


----------



## OtherMike

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


For sli/crossfire watercooling, Im unsure what is the best way to set up my blocks. should I run both blocks simultaneously (using tube/stubby fittings sli/crossfire connector ) or in sequence (flows from one block and then the second). Im worried about back pressure if i run simultaneously. tnx










as long as you have two identical blocks and adequate system pressure, then its not a problem to run them in parallel.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OtherMike*


as long as you have two identical blocks and adequate system pressure, then its not a problem to run them in parallel.


Tnx, I have two different blocks (ek 4870x2 and ek 4870 blocks) I've had concerns about running in "parallel", now im leaning towards sequence. I've heard parallel runs 5ÂºC cooler than sequence. ne thoughts? tnx for your unput, + rep


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Tnx, I have two different blocks (ek 4870x2 and ek 4870 blocks) I've had concerns about running in "parallel", now im leaning towards sequence. I've heard parallel runs 5ÂºC cooler than sequence. ne thoughts? tnx for your unput, + rep










parrellel will keep both cards closer to the same temp, series will have the later cards be warmer.


----------



## studiovpc

new pics from me





































and 45 more here http://www.flickr.com/photos/studiov...14269586/show/

enjoy


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## despisedicon63

Just thought I would share this with you guys! I broke one of the cheap plastic barbs on my Swiftech MicroRes so this is my temporary fix til my compression fittings arrive.










What do you think???


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
*updated*

Kevins most used word! +rep for keeping this going.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy* 
Kevins most used word! +rep for keeping this going.









Hear, Hear


----------



## KOBALT

Heatkiller 3.0, 1366
Swiftech MicroRes
Feser X-Changer 240
PrimoChill 3/8x5/8 Black Tubing
DangerDen DDC12V Pump
Aerocool 120mm Black/Blue LED Fans, 89CFM
Distilled Water/PC Pure Blue UV Mixed Coolant


----------



## hitman1985

panzerschreck, aka a lot of stuff in a small space













Enjoy!


----------



## SonyDSLR

Nice!!


----------



## br4d

more pics on pc-style!


----------



## KOBALT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
panzerschreck, aka a lot of stuff in a small space













Enjoy!

Clean your front intake fan! Nice setup, though!


----------



## Forsaken_id

Just helped setup a buddy's system.

From this disaster:









To this sexiness:

























Gotta love the 800D's eATX MB holes and inner spacing, they allow a perfect no drill res support mount!

Parts:
HeatKiller LC 1366 W/ backplate
Feser tubing
FrozenQ T-virus Res
Swiftech MCP355 pump
Swiftech MCR320-QP Rad
3 x Scythe GentleTyphoon fans


----------



## merple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


Just helped setup a buddy's system.

To this sexiness:










Nice work!
What kind of temps is he getting on that setup?


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *merple*


Nice work!
What kind of temps is he getting on that setup?


Not sure, but he said a few C less than with that Zalman failure. Also much quieter as the fan on the Zalman was pretty loud. I designed it to be like mine, quiet with decent cooling. We prefer that over full blast jet turbine for better temps.


----------



## 88hurst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


Not sure, but he said a few C less than with that Zalman failure. Also much quieter as the fan on the Zalman was pretty loud. I designed it to be like mine, quiet with decent cooling. We prefer that over full blast jet turbine for better temps.










Only a few degrees better than the Zalman?







Looks a lot better though, nice job.


----------



## merple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


Not sure, but he said a few C less than with that Zalman failure. Also much quieter as the fan on the Zalman was pretty loud. I designed it to be like mine, quiet with decent cooling. We prefer that over full blast jet turbine for better temps.


















good to know
I'll be switching from one ridiculously noisy ultra kaze to a rad with gentle typhoons once I get a few more bits and pieces.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88hurst*


Only a few degrees better than the Zalman?







Looks a lot better though, nice job.


Yeah, lol. In truth I don't think he monitored it much so it is probably way more, but that's what he said. Also, thanks!


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KOBALT*


Clean your front intake fan! Nice setup, though!










my rigs arent showoff pieces for some kind of epeen. they work, they fold, they run 24/7/365, the only time they are off, is when the power in my area decides to fail







i dont clean my rig 3 times a week, sry about that


----------



## twich12

updated this since i deleted the old pictures i had up:
list of stuff: xspc res/d5 top->swiftech 240->mcp655->swiftech 360->ek supreme hf->HK gpu-x2->xspc res/d5 top

PICTURES!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*


Kevins most used word! +rep for keeping this going.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Hear, Hear










haha, only in this thread... 

thanks guys! ;-)


----------



## doat

I am not sure if i posted my new setup (new case really)
















I just like how this picture came out lol








Parts List:
EK Supreme Acetal LT CPU block
Laing D5 pump
Danger Den Drive bay reservoir
XSPC RS120 Triple Radiator


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


Just helped setup a buddy's system.










FrozenQ T-virus Res


Greeeeen T-Virus Res....... nomnomnom


----------



## doat

I want a T virus res but they are expensive


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


I want a T virus res but they are expensive


they are just like stinger blocks a bit pricey but worth every penny


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


they are just like stinger blocks a bit pricey but worth every penny










speaking of......


















Its finished!!! freddy is shipping it tomorrow can't wait


----------



## smartasien

wow nice. i've never used blocks with 3 holes b4. Are 2 supposed to be outlet and 1 inlet? Do you use a y or something?


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smartasien* 
wow nice. i've never used blocks with 3 holes b4. Are 2 supposed to be outlet and 1 inlet? Do you use a y or something?

yeah the middle one is inlet other two outlet. and yes you can use a Y to join the 2 outlets together


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D*


yeah the middle one is inlet other two outlet. and yes you can use a Y to join the 2 outlets together


But that slows down flow a bit. Best to go Y....less.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


they are just like stinger blocks a bit pricey but worth every penny










Can you post picks of that black stinger?

This thread is like a victoria secrets catalog.

Keep it up Kevin


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MasterShake*


But that slows down flow a bit. Best to go Y....less.

Can you post picks of that black stinger?

This thread is like a victoria secrets catalog.

Keep it up Kevin


I am going Y less







he just asked if you can use a Y

And this will help you with the black stinger question


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D*


I am going Y less








he just asked if you can use a Y

And this will help you with the black stinger question










thanks man.
Glad to see the forum still supporting freddy. And it looks like the blocks are looking better.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


I want a T virus res but they are expensive



Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


they are just like stinger blocks a bit pricey but worth every penny










Yeah, they are on both accounts, much like the 800D it is all mounted in.


----------



## TurboHertz

Add pleez!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TurboHertz* 
Add pleez!

I would be glad to, but you must follow the rules. 

post pics and a list of your water cooling parts and I will add you to the list. ;-)


----------



## Rian

Add me please, First loop


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rian* 
Add me please, First loop



































































hey, i got the same case as you got..how do you put rads on top of your case?


----------



## doat

You could have done what i did and cut out the entire top of the case and fit the rad flush with the top panel, it looks much better. Check out my watercooled CM690 link in my sig.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MasterShake* 
But that slows down flow a bit. Best to go Y....less.

Can you post picks of that black stinger?

This thread is like a victoria secrets catalog.

Keep it up Kevin


Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
I am going Y less







he just asked if you can use a Y

And this will help you with the black stinger question

yikes my first time loop is embarrassing fresh pic's are a necessity







(grabs camera) brb

edit still not perfect but much better


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
yikes my first time loop is embarrassing fresh pic's are a necessity







(grabs camera) brb

edit still not perfect but much better

~snip~

Needs Moar Anti Kink !!


----------



## bundymania

Neu: aquabox Professional - WasserkÃ¼hlung - Aqua Computer Forum



















...and the good holding mechanism which holds the res. with 3 magnets










and new non uv reactive pre mixes from the same company - nice colors, eh ?


----------



## shredzy

Could you please update mine please?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Needs Moar Anti Kink !!









if you are referring to the reinforced pvc tubing you have to be very careful with it as it is strong enough to break parts. if I knew the blocks could take the load I would use it everywhere as it is almost impossible to kink that tubing







.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Needs Moar Anti Kink !!

I actually disagree on that one. I don't think his bends are sharp enough to justify uglying up the loop with anti kink lol.


----------



## wermad

Just got my 4870 and heat plates, missing Ek block and have to modify 2nd heat plate and add some thermal adhesive.


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Needs Moar Anti Kink !!


i don't think he needs it.







i think its just the picture playing with your eyes.


----------



## ApexVIII

I will be posting pictures soon!! Everything installed except my waterpump that I'm waiting for!!! Can't wait!


----------



## Dobbie

Update:
New Case - CM ATCS 840 . . . IT'S HUGE







compared to the old Antec 900
New rad - TFC 360
Added res - Swiftech Micro res
New 3 - Scythe Ultra Kaze 120x38 3k RPM










I love having the 45s on the GTZ, makes the routing smooth.


















I still need to drill some holes on the mobo tray for the MCP 655 and work on the cable management a little. But I think I will wait til I get my block for the GTX 260 and maybe a HK if I can find one.

EDIT:
I just noticed that I forgot to attach my IDE cable for my DVD burner lol, I wonder how my people would have noticed.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dobbie*


Update:
New Case - CM ATCS 840 . . . IT'S HUGE







compared to the old Antec 900


Awesome! Added to the club, glad you like it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

lookin good guys!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## [email protected]'D

Update for me please Kevin. 
Stinger V8 Arrived this morning





































More pics will come once installed


----------



## bundymania

Bling Bling


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D*


Update for me please Kevin. 
Stinger V8 Arrived this morning

*snip*

More pics will come once installed


very nice don't forget to drop some pic in the stinger thread







we just cant get enough p0rn


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## ApexVIII

What size tubing did you use?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dobbie*


Update:
New Case - CM ATCS 840 . . . IT'S HUGE







compared to the old Antec 900
New rad - TFC 360
Added res - Swiftech Micro res
New 3 - Scythe Ultra Kaze 120x38 3k RPM










I love having the 45s on the GTZ, makes the routing smooth.


















I still need to drill some holes on the mobo tray for the MCP 655 and work on the cable management a little. But I think I will wait til I get my block for the GTX 260 and maybe a HK if I can find one.

EDIT:
I just noticed that I forgot to attach my IDE cable for my DVD burner lol, I wonder how my people would have noticed.


----------



## Dobbie

1/2 IN 3/4 OD, what are thinking?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Bundy, please stop posting. You are making my watercooling gear feel inadequate


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


very nice don't forget to drop some pic in the stinger thread







we just cant get enough p0rn










Ohh yes, Don't worry. I have to wait like another week before I can put it in my rig. Due to work, and waiting on parts







but the stinger club will get lots of nice pics once its in


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
Ohh yes, Don't worry. I have to wait like another week before I can put it in my rig. Due to work, and waiting on parts







but the stinger club will get lots of nice pics once its in


----------



## Chicken Patty

nice blocks bundy and foxy


----------



## wermad

its been a damn wild-goose chase looking for xspc radiator screws, their site shows M4, purchased some, they're too thick







, purchased M3, they're too thin







, so went down to good old home depot w/ my rad and oem screws, found 6-32 screws fit nicely, I had a hunch all this time it was going to be sae screws rather than metric. wasted about $30 in useless screws, maybe they will come in handy w/ something else later on. just to warn about xspc rads and the screws if bought in the US. this build is making me


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
its been a damn wild-goose chase looking for xspc radiator screws, their site shows M4, purchased some, they're too thick







, purchased M3, they're too thin







, so went down to good old home depot w/ my rad and oem screws, found 6-32 screws fit nicely, I had a hunch all this time it was going to be sae screws rather than metric. wasted about $30 in useless screws, maybe they will come in handy w/ something else later on. just to warn about xspc rads and the screws if bought in the US. this build is making me









A good way to tell is if the original rad screws screw into a HDD they are /


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
A good way to tell is if the original rad screws screw into a HDD they are /









I tested the hex case screws (6-32 about 1/4") initially, with a little force they did go in though I was playing it safe going w/ what xspc has on their site, M4 and M3 screws arent easily found in hardware stores, found them @ amazon, $5 for 100pcs, i needed multiple lengths for my build, so had no choice.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
I tested the hex case screws (6-32 about 1/4") initially, with a little force they did go in though I was playing it safe going w/ what xspc has on their site, M4 and M3 screws arent easily found in hardware stores, found them @ amazon, $5 for 100pcs, i needed multiple lengths for my build, so had no choice.










hmm, yeah man you did what you had to do. That method has worked for me always though.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
its been a damn wild-goose chase looking for xspc radiator screws, their site shows M4, purchased some, they're too thick







, purchased M3, they're too thin







, so went down to good old home depot w/ my rad and oem screws, found 6-32 screws fit nicely, I had a hunch all this time it was going to be sae screws rather than metric. wasted about $30 in useless screws, maybe they will come in handy w/ something else later on. just to warn about xspc rads and the screws if bought in the US. this build is making me









glad you did find some I gave up and tapped myn


----------



## wermad

Well got my ek block but it was the wrong one







, i was able to screw the block to the pcb, but the chipset block (black thingy) was not compatible, i got a sapphire and it has a different reference design (i wanted the acrylic/copper to match my ek 4870x2 block). with a little sanding block went on ok, i put the stock heat sink over the chipsets, I found the right heatsink from ek, but their shipping is outrageous , $100 us dollars for the most economical, might be a site error, as i was only charged $20 for shipping the block, i emailed them to double check if shipping was as stated for a $15 item. ne ways, got the anti kink on and clamps, changed the 24pin extension to an pre sleeved one (last pic). im tired, im turning in early




































^^^ pre sleeved NZXT 24 pin 12" extension.


----------



## marauderrt10

can we repost new setups?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marauderrt10* 
can we repost new setups?

of course. ;-)


----------



## marauderrt10

Awesome.

Ditched the seperate drive bay reservoirs, mcp655 pumps, clear tubing and red uv coolant for an XSPC dual bay reservoir that you bolt two mcp355s to the bottom of, distilled water, and red tubing.


----------



## despisedicon63

Updated pic of the rig. I've got some MDPC sleeving and a Corsair 750HX on the way. Gonna sleeve it black and aquamarine blue.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
its been a damn wild-goose chase looking for xspc radiator screws, their site shows M4, purchased some, they're too thick







, purchased M3, they're too thin







, so went down to good old home depot w/ my rad and oem screws, found 6-32 screws fit nicely, I had a hunch all this time it was going to be sae screws rather than metric. wasted about $30 in useless screws, maybe they will come in handy w/ something else later on. just to warn about xspc rads and the screws if bought in the US. this build is making me









My Xspc 360 rad didn't have enough screws either and I also went to home depot but even though they fit they're a pain to screw in and even unscrew cause my screws were not the philips variety but the flat screwdriver kind thats a pain to match with the end of the screwdriver. Not only that seemed like the hole spacing on the xspc was slightly too tight for three fans. Anyone notice that too?


----------



## Tank

Quote:


Originally Posted by *davidm71* 
My Xspc 360 rad didn't have enough screws either and I also went to home depot but even though they fit they're a pain to screw in and even unscrew cause my screws were not the philips variety but the flat screwdriver kind thats a pain to match with the end of the screwdriver. Not only that seemed like *the hole spacing on the xspc was slightly too tight for three fans. Anyone notice that too?*

I had to kinda deform my fans a little to get my screws to go in properly on my old radiator. kinda a pita when trying to put fans in push pull configuration as it seems the frame kinda dsitorts a little when you do this, meh ih well no longer have to worry about it soon once i get my PA120.3 installed. just holding out for that reservoir from iandh to get here before i make any sudden changes


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tank* 
I had to kinda deform my fans a little to get my screws to go in properly on my old radiator. kinda a pita when trying to put fans in push pull configuration as it seems the frame kinda dsitorts a little when you do this, meh ih well no longer have to worry about it soon once i get my PA120.3 installed. just holding out for that reservoir from iandh to get here before i make any sudden changes

I had to sand my Enermax Magmas down a bit to make them thinner to fit in a 3x120 config. Funny thing is that I'm not sure they have enough static pressure to do the job. Other people using Thermalright Venomous sinks report same temps with high speed fans. So it will be once again a pain to remove these fans from inside of my case where my rad is mounted with very little wiggle room. Sigh...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Got me a Apogee XT





















temps were about 3C lower overall than the GTZ like the sites say

































































Clamp-less FTW!!1!1!!!!!1 EVGAFTW!!!!111!!!!1!


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


Got me a Apogee XT





















temps were about 3C lower overall than the GTZ like the sites say

























Clamp-less FTW!!1!1!!!!!1 EVGAFTW!!!!111!!!!1!


Nice


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *davidm71*


My Xspc 360 rad didn't have enough screws either and I also went to home depot but even though they fit they're a pain to screw in and even unscrew cause my screws were not the philips variety but the flat screwdriver kind thats a pain to match with the end of the screwdriver. Not only that seemed like the hole spacing on the xspc was slightly too tight for three fans. Anyone notice that too?


yup, btw Amazon has 6-32 screws in various lengths (i needed for custom mountings and for fan filters w/ grills too) and you can get them "Pan Head" "Phillips" which are what xspc are (quoted just in case for those who dont know screw lingo







) $5-$10 for about 100 pcs, or $3-$6 for smaller quantities. only quick source i have found, for the exception of doing an online search and buying from a small web vendor.

build update: have the pumps and fans as parasites to my wife's pc, system is not pwrd on, yet, 2nd leak test, fixed two so far


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mark205

Swiftech Apogee XT
Swiftech MCP220-QP Res radiator
Swiftech MCP655

Basically everything in the Swiftech H20-220 kit with a different rad and no reservoir (built into rad).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## elementskater706

Here's my very first full watercooling setup.

Swiftech MCR320 Radiator
Danger Den DD12V-D5 Pump
Enzotech Sapphire CPU Block
Danger Den Single Bay Reservoir


----------



## wermad

new gpu loop,

4870x2 gpu#1 @ 35C idle, gpu#2 @34C, 4870 (gpu#3) @34C

amd 940 @ 3.5 idles @ 34C

not bad for larger set up and more blocks within each loop.

Had to redo the gpu loop, the stubby fittings and tubes leaked a couple of times, decided to got w/ this:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 









holy tubing knot batman!

updatinged...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
holy tubing knot batman!

updatinged...


yup, my thoughts too







, but working fine and less strain on the pcb w/ those heavy blocks.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
yup, my thoughts too







, but working fine and less strain on the pcb w/ those heavy blocks.

the dance between kink and strain


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
the dance between kink and strain


----------



## firstchoicett

YouTube- The Official Video for Corsair 800D Extreme Water Cooling i7 975, 5870 Xfire
my extreme build


----------



## ALIGN

Just a couple of quick shots i`ll try and do some better ones...


----------



## ALIGN

Quote:


Originally Posted by *firstchoicett* 
YouTube- The Official Video for Corsair 800D Extreme Water Cooling i7 975, 5870 Xfire

my extreme build

Looks great nice job


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ALIGN* 
Just a couple of quick shots i`ll try and do some better ones...*snip*

nice and clean


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ALIGN* 
Just a couple of quick shots i`ll try and do some better ones...

Dang, thats looking mighty fine! I love that case, im moving into one myself once i get a loop. I'm looking on doing the same as yours but with a full board block. Rep +


----------



## mrhandy65

here is my first watercooling setup. yea its a modded h50, but it works for now.


----------



## firstchoicett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ALIGN* 
Looks great nice job









thanks very much, still have some more work to be done on this system.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AlphaX

Mind if I join in? Here is my new Rig, Just modded and assembled the other day.

Here is the list of parts...

Enzotech SCW-REV.A block
MCP655-B
MCR220-QP Radiator
MCR360-QP Radiator
Primochill UV Red Tubing
2 Scythe S-Flex E fans
and 5 Yate Loons...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

now time for shameless advertising:









I am looking for people to split a 4 pack of Left 4 Dead 2 with while it is on sale. the cost is $18.75 per copy.

here is a link to the thread:

http://www.overclock.net/software/69...-dead-2-a.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AlphaX* 
Mind if I join in? Here is my new Rig, Just modded and assembled the other day.

Here is the list of parts...

Enzotech SCW-REV.A block
MCP655-B
MCR220-QP Radiator
MCR360-QP Radiator
Primochill UV Red Tubing
2 Scythe S-Flex E fans
and 5 Yate Loons...



















I like your cases depth, very long indeed, wish my haf 932 was that long, could squeeze in more stuff or thicker rads. nice build, hey we got the same tubing, nice


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AlphaX* 
Mind if I join in? Here is my new Rig, Just modded and assembled the other day.

Here is the list of parts...

Enzotech SCW-REV.A block
MCP655-B
MCR220-QP Radiator
MCR360-QP Radiator
Primochill UV Red Tubing
2 Scythe S-Flex E fans
and 5 Yate Loons...










Wow. Nice case to mod. Nice loop too! Rep+


----------



## AlphaX

Thanks guys







Its been a fun build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AlphaX* 
Thanks guys







Its been a fun build.

same here, but quite a bit stressfull (especially leak testing)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Levesque

The ''Borg Cube''.

Still some wire management, and unwrapping (the top!) lol, to do, but it's fully fonctionnal. The 5970 is not a big card! Look how small it is!









2 loops, 3 Triple Rads. Tri-Crossfire: 5970 + 5870 with EK waterblocks. Mountain Mods Extended Ascension. Details are in the sig.


----------



## mfb412

Quote:


Originally Posted by *imh073p* 
Wow. Nice case to mod. Nice loop too! Rep+









i agree, that is ludicriously long.
That's what she said

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

now time for shameless advertising:









I am looking for people to split a 4 pack of Left 4 Dead 2 with while it is on sale. the cost is $18.75 per copy.

here is a link to the thread:

http://www.overclock.net/software/69...-dead-2-a.html

I'd buy it with you if i hadn't bought the 4 pack with some friends already


----------



## konkhra

updated old rig: new case and a 360 rad...


----------



## AlphaX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
i agree, that is ludicriously long.
That's what she said

That is what she said







But she was only talking about the case. unfortunately


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AlphaX* 
That is what she said







But she was only talking about the case. unfortunately


















it'll grow m8, just like your case did...xD


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## FlanDeez

TFC 240 Rad w/Enermax Twister & Shrouds Push
Swiftech Apogee XT Block
Jingway DP-600 Pump
Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir

Getting a block for the 5850 when I get some more cash...


----------



## manolith

just finished it today!


----------



## crantana

Here's my first loop.......

Rads, pump, and cpu block....


After.....


----------



## wermad

^^^ nice, I also custom mounted a 360 rad to the front of my haf 932, also got a 360 on top, lots of space sacrifice.


----------



## crantana

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
^^^ nice, I also custom mounted a 360 rad to the front of my haf 932, also got a 360 on top, lots of space sacrifice.

Thanx. I haven't seen a HAF 932 in person......they must be big!!


----------



## EditeD

My TJ07

Parts;
Laing DDC355 w/XSPC Top
EK Multioption 250
AquaComputer blocks for Asus SIIE (NB, SB, MOSFET)
AquaComputer Cuplex HD
And the just finshed install of my TFC X360.









"Beautyshot" - to bad the blitz shows all kind of damage and scratches..

















As you can see theres not much room to work on, yet I have some plans. A dremel and a o-ring solves most of any problems regarding cable management! Pay attention to the hard drives!

















This is how the cable management is done in the bottom chamber. The PSU and unsleeved cables will be sleeved MDPC-style in the near future.









Planning on a major update this summer with new powdercoat of the internal chassis, and also if the wallet permits, fermi with WC!

Sorry for poor-quality pictures.


----------



## imh073p

Awesome loop bro, Rep+


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crantana* 
Thanx. I haven't seen a HAF 932 in person......they must be big!!

There're bigger ones out there. though i wish my haf 932 was a bit wider, longer, and taller. I managed to squeeze in that 360 upfront and had one drive slot left for my dvd. my tubing seems excessive







but it was better due to two different vga blocks.

Build update: killed my psu after swapping out the stock fan for the stock CM fan, I killed it as I was shooting a baddy in Crysis







, ne way, have a 500w back up, used it to test my components, relieved that mobo and first card started up. ordered new psu. lesson learned


----------



## ggmyman

oo watercooling looks kewl


----------



## A-Dub

I can't stop reading this thread! I'll be joining the club soon







Parts are on their way for my super budget and slightly ghetto first wc loop.

Parts coming:
Heater core
Enzotech SCW block
OCZ Hydro 800 l/hr pump
Swiftech res


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I kinda feel sad that I can't really participate in this thread with an active, watercooled pc









It's so frustrating having to wait 3 months just to get the case I want so I can start watercooling again. Am really envious of all you guys tbh. I miss water so much!


----------



## bundymania

..more Koolance Radiators for 140mm Fans


----------



## EditeD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *imh073p* 
Awesome loop bro, Rep+

Thanks bro! Kudos!

What I am most satisfied about is the hard-drive-cage reverse mod, makes everything much cleaner and neater.

To bad the EK acrylic mounts for the res broke the first time I tried to mount the damn thing.







Where can I get some new ones?

HALP!


----------



## bundymania

Here :

http://www.petrastechshop.com/iastunreho.html

Those are the best Holders !









or the cheap plastic holders from EK:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/73...?tl=g30c97s169


----------



## crantana

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
There're bigger ones out there. though i wish my haf 932 was a bit wider, longer, and taller. I managed to squeeze in that 360 upfront and had one drive slot left for my dvd. my tubing seems excessive







but it was better due to two different vga blocks.

Build update: killed my psu after swapping out the stock fan for the stock CM fan, I killed it as I was shooting a baddy in Crysis







, ne way, have a 500w back up, used it to test my components, relieved that mobo and first card started up. ordered new psu. lesson learned

















Looks sweet. I love black and red.


----------



## wermad

^^^ Thanks

I was looking at my dead psu and thought about water cooling a psu. The only methods are to buy a water cooled psu (only know of koolance, and its $500, crazy) or custom make one. I was thinking of maybe using current off-the-shelf watercooling bits and blocks, looking at the psu there are two rails w/ heatsinks, i take it these are the ones in need of most cooling, then it occured they resemble ram sinks and if a ram block can be custom mounted to cool them, hmmmmm







, ne thoughts?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
^^^ Thanks

I was looking at my dead psu and thought about water cooling it too. The only methods are to buy a water cooled psu (only know of koolance, and its $500, crazy) or custom make one. I was thinking of maybe using current off-the-shelf watercooling bits and blocks, looking at the psu there are two rails w/ heatsinks, i take it these are the ones in need of most cooling, then it occured they resemble ram sinks and if a ram block can be custom mounted to cool them, hmmmmm







, ne thoughts?

Wouldnt work well for things like the caps that can do with just air going over them. Also water next to a protected 12v connection isnt too bad but water + mains 240/110V in the same box doesnt, to me sound like i would even try it.

I would just get a quite PSU or replace the fan, like i did, can hear it at all now.


----------



## ErdincIntel




----------



## SimpleTech

@ErdincIntel, I think you may want to rotate your Heatkiller 90Â° because I think in that position it is overlapping the capacitors.


----------



## USFORCES

They don't look like they are touching and I'm sure he would know


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Wouldnt work well for things like the caps that can do with just air going over them. Also water next to a protected 12v connection isnt too bad but water + mains 240/110V in the same box doesnt, to me sound like i would even try it.

I would just get a quite PSU or replace the fan, like i did, can hear it at all now.


Thought so too, tnx for your input, I have already killed my last psu by swapping out the fan, Im going to leave the stock one in for the new one. w/ the pumps and all fans full bore, its non-existing, under low speed setting thru fan controller for pumps and case fans, the psu fan is the loudest but not too loud, small trade off, Im not looking for ultra quiet though,


----------



## imh073p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErdincIntel*




















I guess this is proof that there is no such thing as too much cooling on OCN


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

@ ErdincIntel awsome rig mate, your temps will be fine...xD


----------



## ErdincIntel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
@ ErdincIntel awsome rig mate, your temps will be fine...xD

Thanks mate... Yes, they are as fine as they had never been







I've not seen gtx275s over 48C yet (folding full throttle) and i7 never exceeded 75C on max core yet...

imh073p thanks a lot. Best words about my rig so far


----------



## bundymania




----------



## SystemTech

OOh, a watercooling club, first time ive seen it. Im in


----------



## kevingreenbmx

you guys have been busy since my last update. 

updated (x9)


----------



## Losmile

Just a little Impression of my last update:










Two Laing DDC Ultra, two seperate Loops and a new 1080 Radiator


















Just for CPU Cooling









More Picture still to come









Cya


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

awsome losmile!! it really looks sick!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Losmile* 
Just a little Impression of my last update:










Two Laing DDC Ultra, two seperate Loops and a new 1080 Radiator


















Just for CPU Cooling









More Picture still to come









Cya

AWESOME SICKO!! Your insaned customiz case should be in MAGZINE subscriptions like CPU, PC Customize, on and on..


----------



## Losmile

Thanks a lot.

Tomorrow i will make some Pics with better Light from all sites.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## trippinonprozac

just finished my first build, loving watercooling so far.

Apogee XT with some other swiftech gear.

Load temps at 4.4ghz with HT on are in the low 70's with 25c ambient!

let me know what you think guys.


----------



## liveify

Update-

Sleeved power cables and replaced 8800gts with 8800gt.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *liveify* 
Update-

Sleeved power cables and replaced 8800gts with 8800gt.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *liveify* 
Update-

Sleeved power cables and replaced 8800gts with 8800gt.










Hey man, just saw this over at XS if I'm not mistaken. Great looking Obsidian bro, very nicely done.


----------



## Gnavox

*My watercooled HTPC project*

It took me one week and two orders from Aquatuning to get all the parts I needed.

I wanted to upgrade my processor and overclock both it and the GPU without generating noise. It appears I have succeeded. The most noisy parts of my system are the three 1000GB Samsung SpinPoint F1 harddrives.

Parts:

- Alphacool Cape Cora HF 442
- Alphacool Yellowstone HF 14
- Koolance GPU-200
- 15.9/11.1 XSPC tubing
- Compression fittings where applicable (not on the Alphacool block)
- XSPC 450 pump and reservoir
- Liquid Ice cooling fluid
- 2x Yate Loon D12SL-12D running at really low RPM
- Fittings, fan vibration absorbers, 2 cm thick noise insulation material










One comment for anyone buying and playing with a Cape Cora radiator: While it disperses the heat outside your case, as long as the radiator is mounted directly on the case, the heat will go right back into the case through the thin case metal. In my case the inside of the case would became almost too hot to touch. I resolved this when I added the noise absorption material pictured below and got a better airflow.





































Please remember that big compression fittings do not fit on the Alphacool Yellowstone. The mounting holes for the fittings are too close to one another.










..and a better view of the noise insulation material. It was bought in a local store that sells spare parts for cars, scooters and so on. It was supposed to be black and look better, but it's not so much its look as its sound absorption qualities that matter to me. My case is closed and placed in a shelve under my TV.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gnavox* 
*My watercooled HTPC project*

It took me one week and two orders from Aquatuning to get all the parts I needed.

I wanted to upgrade my processor and overclock both it and the GPU without generating noise. It appears I have succeeded. The most noisy parts of my system are the three 1000GB Samsung SpinPoint F1 harddrives.

Parts:

- Alphacool Cape Cora HF 442
- Alphacool Yellowstone HF 14
- Koolance GPU-200
- 15.9/11.1 XSPC tubing
- Compression fittings where applicable (not on the Alphacool block)
- XSPC 450 pump and reservoir
- Liquid Ice cooling fluid
- 2x Yate Loon D12SL-12D running at really low RPM
- Fittings, fan vibration absorbers, 2 cm thick noise insulation material

One comment for anyone buying and playing with a Cape Cora radiator: While it disperses the heat outside your case, as long as the radiator is mounted directly on the case, the heat will go right back into the case through the thin case metal. In my case the inside of the case would became almost too hot to touch. I resolved this when I added the noise absorption material pictured below and got a better airflow.










Please remember that big compression fittings do not fit on the Alphacool Yellowstone. The mounting holes for the fittings are too close to one another.

..and a better view of the noise insulation material. It was bought in a local store that sells spare parts for cars, scooters and so on. It was supposed to be black and look better, but it's not so much its look as its sound absorption qualities that matter to me. My case is closed and placed in a shelve under my TV.

very nice and is that a wharfedale lurking in the background?


----------



## jaded25

Finally finished transferring my stuff my old rig to my new build and have to say the wait for everything to come in was worth it. I still have a couple of things I have to fix here and there nothing really too bad.

Before









After


----------



## Losmile

Now Pics from the outside:
































































Cya


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## oliverw92

Do i win the smallest prize?


----------



## Losmile

Nice build

Cya


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

new award winner announced!


----------



## Losmile

, nice award









Now i think one of my best shots:










i like this Leather in the Front









Cya


----------



## oliverw92

Looks hot


----------



## Forsaken_id

Very nice, Losmile!

I cleaned mine up a bit:
Got a new PSU (XFX Black 850W) and updated cable management:
Before:









Now:
















































--Rome


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Willhemmens

Made some minnor changes, hope you all like high res photo's.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Made some minnor changes, hope you all like high res photo's.


















Dude, WOW AWESOME.. your WC rig is truly fascinate and sexy!!!, and it looks much better than H50 mod..


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Made some minnor changes, hope you all like high res photo's.

http://www.rmcgamingclan.co.uk/wills...a/P1070965.JPG
http://www.rmcgamingclan.co.uk/wills...a/P1070967.JPG
http://www.rmcgamingclan.co.uk/wills...a/P1070971.JPG
http://www.rmcgamingclan.co.uk/wills...a/P1070974.JPG
http://www.rmcgamingclan.co.uk/wills...a/P1070972.JPG

not to be an "butt" but can u please resize these for the internet challenged if possible?
nice rig BTW


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## A-Dub

Woot, add me to the club! Finished my first loop today.

WC Gear is:
Enzotech Sapphire RevA. Block
OCZ Hydro 800 pump
Swiftech Res
Ghetto heater core

Sorry for the bad pics, will try to get some better ones soon:

Its Alive! (before wire management):









After some wire management:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Dude, WOW AWESOME.. your WC rig is truly fascinate and sexy!!!, and it looks much better than H50 mod..

Mate don't quote all the pictures, it's dam annoying









Nice job.


----------



## Naz

2nd post - updated my loop:


----------



## smrtmilne

ARGH!!!! all this wants me to go to water now, too bad i don't have the money and am working on designing a case for my loop...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## arbalest

Can you update my link with these pics... This is my final rendition.

Don't mind the lint and dust... I finished this last night at 3AM, and I was DONE! lol


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

nice setup arbalest, but may i ask you why those top fans (if im right: ) are intake? and the dust filter on the inside? cause it would be more usefull to have the dust filter on top, or just the fans as exhaust, to help the "natural" hot airflow trough the case.
Anyways, thats just my


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
nice setup arbalest, but may i ask you why those top fans (if im right: ) are intake? and the dust filter on the inside? cause it would be more usefull to have the dust filter on top, or just the fans as exhaust, to help the "natural" hot airflow trough the case.
Anyways, thats just my









Just to keep the dust from the Radiator contained sort of...

I used to have it as exhaust, but after multiple nights of testing, and headaches... Intake provides cooler temps. I have the rear fan as exhaust, and all fan essentially blowing cool air directly over the PUMP and GPU's.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

hmm, sounds like you tested enough








if it gives you better temps its nice, but its strange cause the hot air from your cpu is going into the case, though the idea with watercooling is removing the hot air out of the case...








and yes, the dust filter keeps the dust out, but it will still go into the rad, giving you higher temps


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
hmm, sounds like you tested enough








if it gives you better temps its nice, but its strange cause the hot air from your cpu is going into the case, though the idea with watercooling is removing the hot air out of the case...








and yes, the dust filter keeps the dust out, but it will still go into the rad, giving you higher temps









Yep, hence the filter, which I just pull and dust it out. Better than having to dust the whole setup every other day









H50 is like make-shift watercooling, so for some reason, standard WC'ing rules seem to not apply! lol


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

hmm, anyways, i like the h50, though i never used it, it just looks clean and its cheap compared to normal watercooling








enjoy your setup


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
hmm, anyways, i like the h50, though i never used it, it just looks clean and its cheap compared to normal watercooling








enjoy your setup









Thanks! I should mention, that I do know there are even better alternatives to how I have it setup, BUT it would interrupt the aesthetic flow I was going for.

Its a compromise between form and function, you know.









Thanks for the kind words!


----------



## rickyman0319

does anyone have a 2x120 rad on the rear of the case? if so, can i see the pic?

thank you


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
does anyone have a 2x120 rad on the rear of the case? if so, can i see the pic?

thank you

I had a 4x120


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

(little note, the backplate hole was right behind the cpu with my asrock mobo, but not even close with my asus...







)



that was before i changed to my current case.


----------



## Valafar

Here are some pics of my first water cooled rig. Just got it setup over the weekend. Have been itching to move to water cooling for awhile and finally made the jump.





Edit: Kink in that hose on reservoir is a drain hose


----------



## arbalest

^^ That's a mighty nasty kink in your tubing


----------



## Valafar

That's just to drain it. It is plugged on the end of that hose lol.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Valafar* 
That's just to drain it. It is plugged on the end of that hose lol.

Oh, ok then! lol


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

lol, that wont let much coolant pass....xD i would try to get that out, or use a 90 degree tube or something like that.. cause this wont be fun for your pump....









ah, nevermind, i just see the fast responses......xD


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*


does anyone have a 2x120 rad on the rear of the case? if so, can i see the pic?

thank you












One in the back, and one on top the inside too.


----------



## skkhai

Finally joining.


















HK 3.0, EK GPU blocks, D5 + detroit top, MCR220, MCR320


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Naz* 
2nd post - updated my loop:























































Dam did u weld the two cases together or did u create a custom top box for it? Looks sick


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Liselotte

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
IMG


----------



## oliverw92

I don't really like the font on the MIPS ram block that you chose, but it looks cool


----------



## cyronn

d-tek fusion v2
feser xchanger 240 rad
xspc laing/swiftec ddc 12v ultra


----------



## bundymania

@cyronn: that tubing looks great, nearly "organic" - xtreme transparent and shiny, must by tygon, right ?


----------



## ProcessorBeast09




----------



## -javier-

this is my water cooling setup i also have a 3x120mm radiator in the back, tell me what you think









btw: the gtx 260 is a temp card, waiting on a gtx 480.


----------



## Chicken Patty

very nice looking armour, here is a pic of my old setup


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated


Thanks


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-javier-*


this is my water cooling setup i also have a 3x120mm radiator in the back, tell me what you think









btw: the gtx 260 is a temp card, waiting on a gtx 480.











Are you using any part of the TT cooling stuff?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


very nice looking armour, here is a pic of my old setup











What was used for the blue in the loop? It's beautiful! (And I generally do NOT like blue setups)


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


What was used for the blue in the loop? It's beautiful! (And I generally do NOT like blue setups)


Feser UV Blue


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Are you using any part of the TT cooling stuff?


only looks like the pump, and tubing came from a TT kit


----------



## Chicken Patty

I had a TT drivebay kit that I dissasembled and used as a custom loop. Kinda sucked!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *snow cakes* 
finally finished mine...ugh



April's Fools joke??? very nice rig though, who ever is the true owner


----------



## chozandrias76

I thought I was on the list...but I guess not:


----------



## wermad

^^^very nice HAF brother







. checking out your log, why didn't you derivet the whole thing? its easier than it looks, rivets and rivet gun are really inexpensive. it was easier to apply paint to all parts evenly, plus for my custom setup, had to derivet several times.

build update, though i thought i had bled all air out, still got bubbles and res dropped an inch or two, gonna monitor, happy w/ temps, both ati @ 35c idle and cpu too.










new psu, mind the gfx pwr cables.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

.... damnit. Got me again. Fricking April 1st....


----------



## Inglewood78




----------



## AlphaX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Inglewood78* 









Nice rig, it looks great


----------



## chozandrias76

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
^^^very nice HAF brother







. checking out your log, why didn't you derivet the whole thing? its easier than it looks, rivets and rivet gun are really inexpensive. it was easier to apply paint to all parts evenly, plus for my custom setup, had to derivet several times.

build update, though i thought i had bled all air out, still got bubbles and res dropped an inch or two, gonna monitor, happy w/ temps, both ati @ 35c idle and cpu too.










new psu, mind the gfx pwr cables.

I could fix it but it would be so much work now. My primary goal now is to play sc2 without having my GPU artifact so I need to get a waterblock for it which is more money than I have right now.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## TrippinBimmer

Build in Progress...


----------



## jarble

looks like you have a nice setup but a new camera is in order lol


----------



## dennis_g

i'm new here its my one

















the motherboard with EK-NB/SB 6 - Acetal block.. works perfect 25C

















pump with the res.



















Part lists:
Laining D5 Vario
Swiftech apogee GTZ
EK-NB/SB 6 - Acetal block
HWLabs xflow 360
TFC Xchanger 240
3x Slipstream 1900rpm
3x yateloon 1350rpm
TFC UV tube

Sorry about the cable arrangement I was very tired









hope you like that


----------



## motoray

My newest setup.
HK 3.0
mcp355 w/ Xspc acrylic top
Bitspower barbs
Bitspower Fill port
Feser tubing 3/8 ID
2x Swiftech 120 rads
2x scythe ultra kaze 2000rpm


----------



## dennis_g

Quote:


Originally Posted by *motoray* 
My newest setup.
HK 3.0
mcp355 w/ Xspc acrylic top
Bitspower barbs
Bitspower Fill port
Feser tubing 3/8 ID
2x Swiftech 120 rads
2x scythe ultra kaze 2000rpm

























nice rig!


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
*BLING BLING*













































I've wanted to see proper pics of those for while! They are AMAZING! Are they brass?


----------



## motoray

Thanks







it hauls butt for a lan box.


----------



## -javier-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Are you using any part of the TT cooling stuff?


i have change everything except the pump which is bound to be change as well, soon


----------



## R00ST3R

Have an update on my TJ09 build. 









Got rid of that nasty red dye that turned purplish/pink after a couple weeks, straight distilled now. Switched out the clear tubing w/ some Primochill UV Red 7/16's.










Added a second radiator, the HW Black Ice GTX 240 Gen. 2. Purchased a clear side for it. Added a drain plug, it's that silver doo-hickey hanging below the external rad.


----------



## motoray

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


Have an update on my TJ09 build. 









Got rid of that nasty red dye that turned purplish/pink after a couple weeks, straight distilled now. Switched out the clear tubing w/ some Primochill UV Red 7/16's.










Added a second radiator, the HW Black Ice GTX 240 Gen. 2. Purchased a clear side for it. Added a drain plug, it's that silver doo-hickey hanging below the external rad.


I like your tubing. Looks good man!


----------



## [email protected]'D

@ OLIVERW92

Those phobya reservoirs are just "plated" with "gold" and "black nickel". here they both are

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.ph...36_Phobya.html

And I use the terms plated with GOLD/BLACK NICKEL...lightly


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chozandrias76* 
I could fix it but it would be so much work now. My primary goal now is to play sc2 without having my GPU artifact so I need to get a waterblock for it which is more money than I have right now.

you got a 4870x2? i got an EK block, copper/acrylic, very beautiful but a pita to install, and prone to shorting, this is what I ended up doing, has worked beautifully AND another ocn member contacted me about same issue, he ended up copying my fix to the tee, got a happy email from him that it worked immediately, he was ready to switch to a DD (those are really nice too), i suspect the EK 4870x2 block does not come w/ raisers and/or plastic screws or washers, unfortunately, i got mine thru ebay from a pc retailer selling overstock.










build update: my rig had been down for a whole day, psu was not powering on, thought i had another dead psu (my luck, would have been FOUR psu in less than a month), tested on my oem desktop, worked, removed one device from the psu and tested pwr up, ended up being sata pwr to dvd, bent the connector too much, res is close by and might have bent it when trying to fit to tuck it behind, lucky that had a couple of extra sata lines included w/ the psu, unfortunately had a major leak while wrestling with the psu, fixed and up and running,


----------



## RushMore1205

here comes mine please add me its still a work in progress


----------



## mfb412

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Have an update on my TJ09 build.









Got rid of that nasty red dye that turned purplish/pink after a couple weeks, straight distilled now. Switched out the clear tubing w/ some Primochill UV Red 7/16's.

Added a second radiator, the HW Black Ice GTX 240 Gen. 2. Purchased a clear side for it. Added a drain plug, it's that silver doo-hickey hanging below the external rad.

is that a real strat back there?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfb412*


is that a real strat back there?










I wish







. The red one is a Peavey Mystic which was my 1st guitar purchased about 15 years ago, the other is just a low level Fender electric acoustic.


----------



## mfb412

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
I wish







. The red one is a Peavey Mystic which was my 1st guitar purchased about 15 years ago, the other is just a low level Fender electric acoustic.

i'd love an american standard pale yellow strat (dave murray's and adrian smith's from iron maiden guitar)


----------



## haste266

just finished this up a few hours ago. its a nzxt m59. got it for $40. i was barely able to shove everything in there...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Looks crowded but you did a nice job making things look neat.


----------



## arbalest

haste266,

I like the white fans









Oh, and your WC is nice too!


----------



## ALIGN

A few new pics


----------



## Chicken Patty

very nice obsidian


----------



## ALIGN

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


very nice obsidian










Cheers


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ALIGN*


A few new pics










































































about to steal your build idea lol

is that the new Apogee GTZ?also what temps are u seeing load at that oc


----------



## ALIGN

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy* 
about to steal your build idea lol

is that the new Apogee GTZ?also what temps are u seeing load at that oc

No worrys








No its the old GTZ my max load temp is 61c


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Rian

Hey guys seen alotta loops here going

Res > Pump > *RAD* > Blocks > Res

When mine goes

Res > Pump > *Blocks* > Rad > Res

My temps are amazing (27 idle 36 load) so im wondering why people do it like that? I understand that the pump makes a little bit of heat but shurly its not enough to affect it? Just wondering


----------



## KarmaKiller

A couple reasons. First, the pump gives off a little heat like you said, and if you run from the rad to the blocks, you'll get the coolest water in your loop to you block.
And 2nd because rad's are generally the part with the most restriction in a loop. So lots prefer to put it right after the pumps.


----------



## Rian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KarmaKiller* 
A couple reasons. First, the pump gives off a little heat like you said, and if you run from the rad to the blocks, you'll get the coolest water in your loop to you block.
And 2nd because rad's are generally the part with the most restriction in a loop. So lots prefer to put it right after the pumps.

Ah thanks, I think im fine with the way its set up now though


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mfb412* 
i'd love an american standard pale yellow strat (dave murray's and adrian smith's from iron maiden guitar)

I've got a japanese blue sunburst from 1985







It's awesome









Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 


















Not digging on you bundy, but do you actually do anything with this stuff? The stuff is nice and all, but are you just being sponsored with it or do you work for a wc'ing shop?


----------



## Lulzcakes110

I'm not a water cooler, but water cooling looks very bad ass with green water and blue lights.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Not digging on you bundy, but do you actually do anything with this stuff? The stuff is nice and all, but are you just being sponsored with it or do you work for a wc'ing shop?

I believe he writes reviews for XS.


----------



## oliverw92

Ah that would make sense


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rian* 
Hey guys seen alotta loops here going

Res > Pump > *RAD* > Blocks > Res

When mine goes

Res > Pump > *Blocks* > Rad > Res

My temps are amazing (27 idle 36 load) so im wondering why people do it like that? I understand that the pump makes a little bit of heat but shurly its not enough to affect it? Just wondering









A lot of ppl were questioning me about the same thing, i have mine just like you pump>blocks>rad>res. i have two separate loops w/ 360 rads and both share a large res, check the pic. w/ my first water cooling setup i tried both ways and did not see any difference (~Â±.05). With this new build, I based mine on my car, Im very happy w/ my temps, using a fan controller to control both fan and pumps, on low speed idles 36-38c for cpu and for all three gpu and its very quiet, psu is loudest thing. high speed and idles 30-34C. load (playing cyrsis for hours) avg cpu temp was 46c and gpus 46-49c (usually gpu "0" on 4870x2 is highest) switched to high speed thru fan controller. a heck of a lot better than stock, cpu 50-60, gpu 60-85. water cooling is fun, if you wanna try both ways, buy some extra tubing and check your results.


----------



## oliverw92

Hmm interesting, so in this case:

2x laing ddc in series -> quad rad -> 2x gpu -> SB -> NB -> mosfets -> cpu -> RAM -> triple rad -> res

Would i see in temp change from:

2x laing ddc in series -> quad rad -> 2x gpu -> SB -> triple rad -> cpu -> mosfets -> NB -> RAM -> res

I mainly care about the GPU and CPU temps.


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Hmm interesting, so in this case:

2x laing ddc in series -> quad rad -> 2x gpu -> SB -> NB -> mosfets -> cpu -> RAM -> triple rad -> res

Would i see in temp change from:

2x laing ddc in series -> quad rad -> 2x gpu -> SB -> triple rad -> cpu -> mosfets -> NB -> RAM -> res

I mainly care about the GPU and CPU temps.

I persoanlly would go

PUMPS>QUAD rad> CPU>NB mosfets ram etc>TRIPLE RAD> GPUS>RES>PUMP


----------



## oliverw92

It has to go quad rad -> gpu's unfortunately.


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
It has to go quad rad -> gpu's unfortunately.

2x laing ddc in series -> quad rad -> 2x gpu -> SB -> triple rad -> cpu -> mosfets -> NB -> RAM -> res...... I'd say this was your best bet then, as long as a rad is before the GPU's and one before the CPU I don't think you will have a problem


----------



## oliverw92

Ok, thats what i had originally planned, thanks.


----------



## Cpt.Zero

mine









GA1 Bumblebee


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

who wants to be 300?


----------



## Dobbie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cpt.Zero* 
mine









GA1 Bumblebee



















A tip for next time when taking pics, block the light from the window. That amount of light is what is fuzzing up your pics. Just a FYI.

Looks good though


----------



## dimwit13

well shes done,except for connecting the front fan-i need a extention- and 2x80mm fans.

wadda you think?









































































can i join?

-dimwit-


----------



## oliverw92

An excellent 300th! That is amazing mate, nice job!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
An excellent 300th! That is amazing mate, nice job!

This!
I really like the white side of that gpu


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

hey dimwit13, how is the dual res thing working?

was it difficult to fill?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

hey dimwit13, how is the dual res thing working?

was it difficult to fill?

not really, took a little time but not too bad.
i left a quarter sized air bubble i one of the res's, so i can see water movement.i am glad that i went with the dual res (i was told it wouldn't work, so that just gave me more incentive to do it-lol)
the back ports are of center so the intake is higher than the feed, so it flows down hill.

now i want to make ore-lol

thanks for the replies.

-dimwit-

i was thinking of entering it in the MOTM contest, but it lacks compared to the others entries.


----------



## whe3ls

me starting on my newest loop, mcr120, Apogee GT and a mcp320


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dimwit13* 










-dimwit-

Wow, with a few sleeves and some unisleeve extentions, that would be pretty stunning. Nice job on that sniper. Rep+


----------



## Firefly

Not sure is I've post here before, first WC


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dimwit13* 
well shes done,except for connecting the front fan-i need a extention- and 2x80mm fans.

wadda you think?










can i join?

-dimwit-

Damn, that is very nice! Good Job.

--Rome


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

so, anyone know if there is a limit to the number of links you can have in a post? if so I think we may be getting close to it in the members list.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
so, anyone know if there is a limit to the number of links you can have in a post? if so I think we may be getting close to it in the members list.









i guess you could ask a mod?
i wouldnt think that there would be a limit, i know the Storm Scout has over 500 pages of posts so there must be more than here.

-dimwit-


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

so, anyone know if there is a limit to the number of links you can have in a post? if so I think we may be getting close to it in the members list.









Not sure. I know that in the CM 690 club there are around 450 links in the first post.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

so, anyone know if there is a limit to the number of links you can have in a post? if so I think we may be getting close to it in the members list.









Well since you own the second and third post on the first page... I'm sure you could expand later down the road if you do find the magical maximum that makes Post #1 go *ACK*COUGH*FULL*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*


Well since you own the second and third post on the first page... I'm sure you could expand later down the road if you do find the magical maximum that makes Post #1 go *ACK*COUGH*FULL*


yea, I already planned on that if there was a problem . ;-) (that is part of why I took those posts)


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cpt.Zero*


mine









GA1 Bumblebee




















Saw this log over at XS I believe, made me drool!







Great work.


----------



## oliverw92

Iceland lulz


----------



## sikisher

finally my setup is ready hope u guys like it
as for my specs:

core17 920
6gb Ocz reaper 2000mhz ram
Asus P6t deluxe v2
My all fav diamond 4870x2 oc edition
2x1tb Hd wd and 1 500gb wd
cooler master 850 watt modular psu(my stupid 1000watt ocz psu stopped working n i cudnt replace it in warranty)
creative titaniam fatality pro soundcard

Enzotech Sapphire CPU Water Block Rev.
EK-FC4870 X2 CF High Performance Water Block - Nickel
Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - UV Orange
Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid - UV Orange - 1 Liter $59.85
Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Triple Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 1/2"
Swiftech mcp655 pump
Danger den reservoir
360 rad


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## wermad

messing w/ overdrive to bump my speed on my 940, reboot, and lo-and-behold BSOD. tried everything, safe mode was not even helping, even restore. had a hunch this was an old problem i ran into before. gave in, reinstall windows, finally got it working, install ccc drivers, reboot, back to bsod.







. took my 4870x2 out, and ran only on 4870, it booted! so its that pesky ek/4870x2 issue again, something was shorting the pcb again. took it apart, will redo when i get time







.


----------



## jarble

ouch


----------



## wermad

fixed my 4870x2, back in trifire


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## -JUNK-

Hello all, been water cooling for a couple of years now. Finally got a case I really like, modded it, and borrowed a cam to get some decent pics of it.

Corsair 800D case with custom window. B.I. 3x120 rad in the top and on the external mount on the back.









Edge lit bay cover and UV glow on the water lines that I wanted to stand out.









UV lit lines, T-Virus style res, and Destroyer mobo.









Wire management. A work in progress.









More techy specs are in my sig. Thanks for looking!

JunK


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-JUNK-*


Hello all, been water cooling for a couple of years now. Finally got a case I really like, modded it, and borrowed a cam to get some decent pics of it.

Corsair 800D case with custom window. B.I. 3x120 rad in the top and on the external mount on the back.








More techy specs are in my sig. Thanks for looking!

JunK


Nice Rig my man







. I have to ask, what is that contraption holding the external rad on there?


----------



## -JUNK-

Thanks! Thats a Koolance external rad mount.

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=829

Adjustable spacing and works great. Has a quick release which is nice for cleaning the dust off of it without having to shove things behind the tower blindly.


----------



## wermad

in a rush to mount the front 360 rad, i made a STUPID mistake, just found out. i was too preoccupied getting my rig up and running (down almost 2 months for the build







) that i over looked this simple thing. Im using the stock CM 230 red led fan and a yate loon 120 on the front of the rad to push, added three more yate loons to pull, apperantly, i know im an idiot, i mounted the rear fans in push orientation.







, pls forgive, still new to wc world







. what makes it challenging, i had to mount the rad when my case was partially disassembled to easily mount it w/ the fans, i can take out the fans, just gonna have to drain everything to move the pumps out of the way. im still kicking myself. interesting though, temps were pretty good for all three gpu around 30-35 idle, and 45-50c load (gaming). will post corrected push/pull setup temps. pls be gentle w/ comments on my stupidity


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


in a rush to mount the front 360 rad, i made a STUPID mistake, just found out. i was too preoccupied getting my rig up and running (down almost 2 months for the build







) that i over looked this simple thing. Im using the stock CM 230 red led fan and a yate loon 120 on the front of the rad to push, added three more yate loons to pull, apperantly, i know im an idiot, i mounted the rear fans in push orientation.







, pls forgive, still new to wc world







. what makes it challenging, i had to mount the rad when my case was partially disassembled to easily mount it w/ the fans, i can take out the fans, just gonna have to drain everything to move the pumps out of the way. im still kicking myself. interesting though, temps were pretty good for all three gpu around 30-35 idle, and 45-50c load (gaming). will post corrected push/pull setup temps. pls be gentle w/ comments on my stupidity










i feel for you.
my first WC system had to be taken apart 3 times before i got it right.
i did 3 dry fits with this WC setup just to make sure.
it has happened to the best of them, but would they admit it, no-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dimwit13* 
i feel for you.
my first WC system had to be taken apart 3 times before i got it right.
i did 3 dry fits with this WC setup just to make sure.
it has happened to the best of them, but would they admit it, no-lol

-dimwit-

I'll admit something horrible. I left the side off my case for awhile there before I received a new clear side panel. Well anyways I noticed the water was down a bit, and sure enough I look down on the PSU and there's a big blotch. Long story short. My freakin' cat had pierced a tiny hole in one of the tubes







!! Yea, yea...I know...cool story bro







.


----------



## TrippinBimmer

Just finish my build. Hopefully, I will sleeve my new PSU when i get it


















-TrippinBimmer


----------



## -JUNK-

Looks good man! Nice build!


----------



## [email protected]'D

LoL @ My new very mad res layout


----------



## spectre023

i finally get to post a pic of my rig


----------



## Chairless

Hi, heres some pics of my first attempt at a WC rig.



















I wanted the rad to be internal and fit into the top of my CM 690.










With very little modding and some slim 120mm's i got the effect i wanted.




























Heres my little res / pump combo. This is the second one after the first died.










Some minor mods that i do to most of my cases, dremel out holes behind the mobo for SATA etc.



















Finally a shot of my CPU block










Im fairly pleased with my first attempt, had a lot of fun with it and am afraid ive caught the bug. Im already wanting to include the gpu in the loop. The temps are good, nothing epic but better than i expected with the reduced airflow over the thin rad i got. But i was after the stealth effect and reckon its a good compromise. Also had a lot of fun with a Big-NG fan / universe controller, which now happily monitors and controls all my fans, water temp and the led / ccfl's.

A quick list of bits:

1/4" BSPP Inline Male/Female Temperature Sensor
2 x Yate Loon 120 x 120 x 20mm Slim Case Fan 1350 RPM
mCubed HFX 113 T-Balancer BigNG Cooling Controller
12V X2O Compact 450 Water Pump/Reservoir
Black Ice GT Stealth 240 Radiator
1/4" BSPP - 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD Compression Fittings
Thermochill EC6 Non Conductive Coolant - UV Blue
HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 1366 LC Water Block
3/8" ID - 1/2" OD Hose - Clear


----------



## CatfishSoup

holy ! D: Junk's rig is amazing. and im def. feeling that custom side panel







nice stuff bro. keep it up


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


I'll admit something horrible. I left the side off my case for awhile there before I received a new clear side panel. Well anyways I noticed the water was down a bit, and sure enough I look down on the PSU and there's a big blotch. Long story short. My freakin' cat had pierced a tiny hole in one of the tubes







!! Yea, yea...I know...cool story bro







.


how did the cat taste-lol

i love my cat about $500 worth, my computer is worth more.
if she would have broke more than $500 woth of stuff, i would have eaten her-lol

we just got a new "little cat" and keeps jumping on my desk, and i am worried that she will get in my cases at night and wreak havok while im sleeping-shes to small to eat, i will just have to fatten her up-lol

i hope all was ok?
nothing major, well except the tubing and the mess?

-dimwit-

PS there are some great looking systems posted here-keep up the good work!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TrippinBimmer*


Just finish my build. Hopefully, I will sleeve my new PSU when i get it



















-TrippinBimmer


Hey is that one of those EK SLI bridges? Got any more pics?


----------



## -JUNK-

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CatfishSoup* 
holy ! D: Junk's rig is amazing. and im def. feeling that custom side panel







nice stuff bro. keep it up

Thanks! First time I ever cut a panel. I figured for 20$, if I screwed up it wouldnt be too bad plus I'd still have the stock one.


----------



## wermad

Chairless very impressive rig, xcellent color selections

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
LoL @ My new very mad res layout

Here is my res, i think you can call it mad too


----------



## spiderm0nkey

It makes me happy seeing all the Cooler Master 690 cases here


----------



## bundymania




----------



## 88EVGAFTW




----------



## Chicken Patty

Freakin' Bundy, always making us drool over his WC stuff. I'm going to go cry in a corner now


----------



## [email protected]'D

update for me again Kev


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Freakin' Bundy, always making us drool over his WC stuff.


Thats why he doesnt have to pay for his coolant....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D*


update for me again Kev










lookin good man.









updated.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Thats why he doesnt have to pay for his coolant....


----------



## wermad

After correcting my radiator fans, all i can say is WOW! idle temps dropped from 40c to a cool 28c







for all three gpu's, and this is w/out the door which has four fans that feed the gfx directly. very pleased and still kicking myself for overlooking something simple, btw my mistake was i put my radiator fans in push/push







rather than the correct push/pull.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
After correcting my radiator fans, all i can say is WOW! idle temps dropped from 40c to a cool 28c







for all three gpu's, and this is w/out the door which has four fans that feed the gfx directly. very pleased and still kicking myself for overlooking something simple, btw my mistake was i put my radiator fans in push/push







rather than the correct push/pull.









I saw that happen to someone once, stuff that is overlooked easily man.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I saw that happen to someone once, stuff that is overlooked easily man.

True true...

...Im pleased so much, bought some more fans and a shroud to install fans to pull for the top rad, due to the tall res and dvd, cant put fans inside case, so gonna custom mount on top, seen a fellow ocn HAF owner do it, very nice and extreme looking


----------



## manolith




----------



## mckbtr

here is my setup but im in the middle of changes just added a rx360 to the left side and removed waterblock from gtx260 for the gtx470 on its way

will update when the gtx 470 block gets here


----------



## wermad

^^^Awsome system, I like your mod for the bottom section for the pumps, res, and rads


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
True true...

...Im pleased so much, bought some more fans and a shroud to install fans to pull for the top rad, due to the tall res and dvd, cant put fans inside case, so gonna custom mount on top, seen a fellow ocn HAF owner do it, very nice and extreme looking









Good luck.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mckbtr*


here is my setup but im in the middle of changes just added a rx360 to the left side and removed waterblock from gtx260 for the gtx470 on its way

will update when the gtx 470 block gets here






































B E A UTIFUL-i need time alone now-lol

i love the colors-you guys are going to send me to the poor house.
i keep getting new ideas with every system posted here.
i must turn away-but the power is too strong-i must look.

-dimwit-


----------



## Riskitall84

Add me

Swiftech Apogee XT
XPSC RX360
3 X 120mm AC Ryan UV Blue fans
MCP355
XPSC Acrylic Top and Res
Feser 1/2"ID 3/4"OD
Bitspower Black Nickel Coated Compression Fittings



















Rig is a work in progress - Temp GPU and the green kills my colour scheme but soon to be replaced with a 5870/5970 or GTX 470/80 an a new PSU which will be sleeved









GPU(s) will be water cooled and the Pump & Res will be bolted to the HD cage


----------



## da3dalus

here is my moddest entry for the moment, will be getting expanded shrotly, just gotta get the monies!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## frickfrock999

AH, IT'S LIKE STARING INTO THE SUN!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *frickfrock99* 









AH, IT'S LIKE STARING INTO THE SUN!

make that a binary system







, impressive illumination from led-fan btw


----------



## doat

Nice catch Wermad, that is a fantastic picture.


----------



## Despised Icon




----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


Nice catch Wermad, that is a fantastic picture.


further taking it, w/ the dark center, resembles binary black holes w/ matter falling into them, the illuminated areas could be the super heated matter that goes through when getting close to the Schwarzschild radius (aka the event horizon)







. Im an avid cosmology fan


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Despised Icon* 
*snip*

Nice job, that looks fantastic!


----------



## Despised Icon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Nice job, that looks fantastic!

Thanks alot dude! Btw, you are a master of rendering.


----------



## oliverw92

Thanks







I just put up a tutorial if you want to learn how: http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...ml#post9039931 it is very easy


----------



## R1P5AW

Wow there are definitely some sexy builds in here.

I'm looking forward to joining and here is a little preview...


----------



## Despised Icon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Thanks







I just put up a tutorial if you want to learn how: http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...ml#post9039931 it is very easy


Sweet! I am definitely going to check it out.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
Wow there are definitely some sexy builds in here.

I'm looking forward to joining and here is a little preview...










Lucky!


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Despised Icon* 

Lucky!


You have one sexy setup yourself sir!

+rep


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Despised Icon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
You have one sexy setup yourself sir!

+rep

Thanks bro! +rep returned


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Despised Icon*

























































IMO all this rig needs is the MCP655 Dress up kit and that's it BEAUTIFUL!


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
IMO all this rig needs is the MCP655 Dress up kit and that's it BEAUTIFUL!









Agreed--this is one of my favorites


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


Agreed--this is one of my favorites










Yep indeed, very nicely put together and the color scheme is great. Some bling to the pump and bingo!


----------



## Despised Icon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


IMO all this rig needs is the MCP655 Dress up kit and that's it BEAUTIFUL!











Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


Agreed--this is one of my favorites











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Yep indeed, very nicely put together and the color scheme is great. Some bling to the pump and bingo!


Thanks guys! I'm kinda new to the forums, so it's cool to get your opinions too. I've been thinking about the Mod kit for the pump too, but I couldn't decide.

This one - http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5mcmodkit.html

or this one - http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5mcmodkit1.html

with this top I know - http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5modtop.html

Also I am pretty soon going all BP Silver Compression fittings, so that might sway your opinon on which pump mod kit. Thanks!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


IMO all this rig needs is the MCP655 Dress up kit and that's it BEAUTIFUL!










I think I might kick you in the 'nads for quoting all the pictures lol


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Despised Icon*


Thanks guys! I'm kinda new to the forums, so it's cool to get your opinions too. I've been thinking about the Mod kit for the pump too, but I couldn't decide.

This one - http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5mcmodkit.html

or this one - http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5mcmodkit1.html

with this top I know - http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5modtop.html

Also I am pretty soon going all BP Silver Compression fittings, so that might sway your opinon on which pump mod kit. Thanks!


Opinions are always good to have man, whether good or bad. Feedback is important and plays an important role in any succesful build like yours my friend.

As far as dress up kit, the matte black would looks better I think. Too bad it's out of stock







.

But then again the Silver BP fittings would look great with the Black Sparkle dress up kit too! I'd personally go matte black though.


----------



## Despised Icon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I think I might kick you in the 'nads for quoting all the pictures lol










I almost said something, but then I remembered it was my rig he was quoting.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Opinions are always good to have man, whether good or bad. Feedback is important and plays an important role in any succesful build like yours my friend.

As far as dress up kit, the matte black would looks better I think. Too bad it's out of stock







.

But then again the Silver BP fittings would look great with the Black Sparkle dress up kit too! I'd personally go matte black though.


Hard decision, I think I might go with the black sparkle one, as it is in stock, couple of dollars cheaper, will match my compression fittings. I just bought jshays X25-M though, so I'll prolly wait til my cash supply replenishes somewhat.


----------



## pgmoney

my specs and pics:

Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 920 DO @ 2.67GHz (8 CPUs), ~4.2GHz @ 1.25 vcore (I have reached 4.8 GHz just not vantage stable)
Memory: 6144MB RAM patriot 1600mhz
Hard Drive: 500 GB x 6 sataII seagate
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 275 SC tri-sli 
Monitor: Hannspree 25" HDMI 
Sound Card: Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio) 
Speakers/Headphones: Plantronics game com 777
Keyboard: Logitech G19 
Mouse: CM STORM Sentinel advnced 5600 dpi dual laser 
Mouse Surface: sub zero optical gamer pad 
Operating System: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit (6.1, Build 7600) (7600.win7_rtm.090713-1255) 
Motherboard: EVGA_x58 classified 760
Computer Case: Cooler master haf 932 H2O cooled with fesser 1
PSU corsair 1000HX

with uv on loop








without gfx cards 2x 240 rads
















right side, outside casepanel


----------



## wermad

^^^very nice


----------



## TrippinBimmer

This is my First Full Custom Build that turned out well.







This is my Second W/C Loop since 2002.

I would like to Thank a Few Vendors. Jab-tech, SideWinder, PC-Performance and IandH for the Future Custom Kill-Coil









The Build isn't Fully Completed. I still have to get a Bigger PSU. Sleeve the New PSU, Sleeve the other Cables, and Lamptron Fan Controller. Funds ran super low and unable to complete.









Computer Build Spec:

Lian Li PC-75 Black
Intel i7 860 
eVGA P55 FTW
4 x 2gb G.Skill Eco DDR3 1600
2 x XFX GTX285 1GB SLI
Corsair TX750W
Seagate 7200.12 2 - 500GB Raid0
Seagate 7200.11 2 - 1.5TB
Sony Multi-Card Reader
Sony DVD-RW

WaterCool Build Spec:

1 - HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 1156
1 - HEATKILLERÂ® Backplate LGA1156
2 - HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² GTX285
1 - HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² Triple-Link
1 - Laing D5 Pump
1 - BitsPower Multi-Z 250 Res
1 - BitsPower Custom Design Radgard 480 - Black Aluminum
3 - BitsPower 1/2 x 3/4in Black Compression Fitting 
3 - BitsPower 1/2 x 3/4in Dual Rotary 90* Compression Fitting
3 - BitsPower 1/2 x 3/4in Dual Rotary 45*
1 - Black Ice GTX 480 Radiator
8 - YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SH-12 - High Speed
5 - PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing - 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD

Pics of Rig...







Will have more when Battery Charges up.



















-TrippinBimmer


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TrippinBimmer*


This is my First Full Custom Build that turned out well.







This is my Second W/C Loop since 2002.

I would like to Thank a Few Vendors. Jab-tech, SideWinder, PC-Performance and IandH for the Future Custom Kill-Coil









The Build isn't Fully Completed. I still have to get a Bigger PSU. Sleeve the New PSU, Sleeve the other Cables, and Lamptron Fan Controller. Funds ran super low and unable to complete.









Computer Build Spec:

Lian Li PC-75 Black
Intel i7 860 
eVGA P55 FTW
4 x 2gb G.Skill Eco DDR3 1600
2 x XFX GTX285 1GB SLI
Corsair TX750W
Seagate 7200.12 2 - 500GB Raid0
Seagate 7200.11 2 - 1.5TB
Sony Multi-Card Reader
Sony DVD-RW

WaterCool Build Spec:

1 - HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 1156
1 - HEATKILLERÂ® Backplate LGA1156
2 - HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² GTX285
1 - HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² Triple-Link
1 - Laing D5 Pump
1 - BitsPower Multi-Z 250 Res
1 - BitsPower Custom Design Radgard 480 - Black Aluminum
3 - BitsPower 1/2 x 3/4in Black Compression Fitting 
3 - BitsPower 1/2 x 3/4in Dual Rotary 90* Compression Fitting
3 - BitsPower 1/2 x 3/4in Dual Rotary 45*
1 - Black Ice GTX 480 Radiator
8 - YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SH-12 - High Speed
5 - PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing - 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD

Pics of Rig...







Will have more when Battery Charges up.



















-TrippinBimmer


I just love those vga sli/crossfire blocks, very sexy!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## da3dalus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *frickfrock99*


AH, IT'S LIKE STARING INTO THE SUN!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


make that a binary system







, impressive illumination from led-fan btw



Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


Nice catch Wermad, that is a fantastic picture.


Thanks guys, it's my first water build so I just decided to go simple while im lerning. less to go wrong lol the fans are xigmateks, they are pretty much silent at low speed and barely noticeable at full. really happy with them. some reallt impresssive pc's in here.









+rep4uall


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Despised Icon*


I almost said something, but then I remembered it was my rig he was quoting.










Hard decision, I think I might go with the black sparkle one, as it is in stock, couple of dollars cheaper, will match my compression fittings. I just bought jshays X25-M though, so I'll prolly wait til my cash supply replenishes somewhat.










Good Deal


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*






























I want to







that rig. LOL


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


I want to







that rig. LOL


keep it in your pants in my thread, mmk?


----------



## R1P5AW

Nice builds!


----------



## doat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
further taking it, w/ the dark center, resembles binary black holes w/ matter falling into them, the illuminated areas could be the super heated matter that goes through when getting close to the Schwarzschild radius (aka the event horizon)







. Im an avid cosmology fan









Hahaha i love astronomy as well and when i saw that picture i thought the same thing, two black holes.


----------



## konkhra

Update: Finished the sleeving, changed the Corsair 140mm fanes out and replaced the plexi with hexx mesh, the only air really coming into the case was from the 240 rad at the bottom. Just wasn't enough cool air coming in so went with the mesh to give the 120/360 rads a place to pull from.


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *konkhra*


Update: Finished the sleeving, changed the Corsair 140mm fanes out and replaced the plexi with hexx mesh, the only air really coming into the case was from the 240 rad at the bottom. Just wasn't enough cool air coming in so went with the mesh to give the 120/360 rads a place to pull from.


Very nice!

+rep


----------



## Rexel

My setup:

CPU:EK-Supreme LT - Acetal
Rad:2x XSPC RS120 Black
Pump/Res:XSPC X2O Compact 450 Pump


----------



## spectre023

edit:
nvm.. already there.


----------



## oliverw92

You are already added spectre


----------



## spectre023

lol for real?
i didnt even know.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spectre023* 
edit:
nvm.. already there.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You are already added spectre


Quote:


Originally Posted by *spectre023* 
lol for real?
i didnt even know.

it's alright, as long as you have new pics you can make another post and I will add it.









but yes, you are #305


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

keep it in your pants in my thread, mmk? 

I'll try LOL


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


Originally Posted by *konkhra* 
Update: Finished the sleeving, changed the Corsair 140mm fanes out and replaced the plexi with hexx mesh, the only air really coming into the case was from the 240 rad at the bottom. Just wasn't enough cool air coming in so went with the mesh to give the 120/360 rads a place to pull from.

your rig is DISGUSTING







<3 it, wts? my buddy wants to buy it after he saw it over my shoulder lol


----------



## whe3ls

my buddys p180


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whe3ls* 
my buddys p180









I always get weirded out when I see a loop with no res


----------



## whe3ls

nothing wrong with no res


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whe3ls* 
nothing wrong with no res

Yeah I know, I just find it weird is all


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## IntelFloyd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whe3ls* 
nothing wrong with no res

Its just a lot harder to bleed lol.
FYI I have ran T line and many different style res' and im never doing a T line again unless I need to because I cannot fit a res.


----------



## Bodycount

Pant,Pant,Pant 201 pages
















But i made it through. I will join you guys and "gals" soon enough.
I'm getting my classified today and i'm thinking....

1st time loop

Apogee XT
Full block=brand??
White tubing=brand??
Black comp fittings=brand??
FrozenQ Black&Red
MM Pinnacle 24 or 800D

Temp set up until i get a case and other gear so Bear with me








H50 rad wouldn't fit in my case with a evga E758


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Apogee XT
Full block=brand??
White tubing=brand??
Black comp fittings=brand??

Full block= EK classified 3-way SLI full board block
White tubing= whatever you want
Black comp fittings= Bitspower matte black with whatever size tubing you decide on


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whe3ls* 
nothing wrong with no res

Yes thats true.. I currently use the T-line WC loop without res..


----------



## xlr8ter

Here's mine:

























*EDIT:* These are the only surviving pics of my build (I somehow deleted when I thought I was transferring)


























I had a bunch of pictures of all the boxes together and me Unboxing, oh well..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## n8t1308

Cable management be damned! May not be the prettiest but I made the jump and will never look back thanks OCN
























Id love to be a part of the club plz


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xlr8ter* 
Here's mine:

























Oooo norprene! Interesting choice of tubing!


----------



## n8t1308

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Oooo norprene! Interesting choice of tubing!

Yes I have to say I havnt seen that before







Isn't Neoprene a very soft tubing or am I thinking of the wrong material?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## xlr8ter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *n8t1308*


Yes I have to say I havnt seen that before







Isn't Neoprene a very soft tubing or am I thinking of the wrong material?


Your right, it's really soft and flexible (not what she said), and it kinks very easily. To be honest, the only reason I chose it was that I wanted all black.


----------



## n8t1308

Just buy some primoflex tubing in all black and you lessen your risks of some kinks and a possible system death lol


----------



## xlr8ter

Nah, it's fine right now. I put some zip ties on the most likely places to kink to make sure.

The biggest problem comes when I put the side panel on; the side fan preses against the tubing and it looks pretty strained. I'm a little afraid to leave it on for long periods of time. I'll probably end up taking the side fan off.

I'm probably making it sound worse than it is though. This _is _my first Water cooling loop, so I guess I'm being a bit paranoid...


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlr8ter*


Here's mine:










Wow, there is neat & perfect WC loop!


----------



## [email protected]

Please can i join?


----------



## Unacceptable

I will be joining this club with my first wc rig when my parts come in either next weekend, or the weekend after.

Parts:

cpu block: koolance cpu-360 rev 1.1
Rad: Koolance 2x 120
Pump+Tank: Koolance RP-1000BK

Thank is just the start







I will be adding 2 more 2x120mm rads to the side panel of my HAF, and another pump and res along for a separate loop for my GPUs. Thats the plan at least







.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unacceptable*


I will be joining this club with my first wc rig when my parts come in either next weekend, or the weekend after.

Parts:

cpu block: koolance cpu-360 rev 1.1
Rad: Koolance 2x 120
Pump+Tank: Koolance RP-1000BK

Thank is just the start







I will be adding 2 more 2x120mm rads to the side panel of my HAF, and another pump and res along for a separate loop for my GPUs. Thats the plan at least







.


Have you already ordered the parts?


----------



## oliverw92

Not meaning to rain on your parts, but that koolance pump + tank is a rip off and doesn't perform very well. There are also much better CPU blocks and rads than that - their claim of 700W heat dissipation on a dual rad is laughable.


----------



## fstfrddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Not meaning to rain on your parts, but that koolance pump + tank is a rip off and doesn't perform very well. There are also much better CPU blocks and rads than that - their claim of 700W heat dissipation on a dual rad is laughable.


 I agree that pump/tank combo may look cool but that's about it. I would definitely think about something else, especially for $207!!


----------



## oliverw92

Listen to frddy! He is a bloody genius









I still can't get over that they claim a 240mm rad will dissipate 700W of heat lol.


----------



## SgtHop

Maybe it's 700W per hour?


----------



## Unacceptable

Nah not raining on it at all, it was a prise a from a tourney held by a local comp shop. More or less I knew it wasn't the greatest stuff from the research I did after winning, but its a nice start into water cooling for me







. After all this is my first rig, and the wc system will change with it as I upgrade.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## oliverw92

Nice set of blocks bundy! My favs are the BP and the EK


----------



## Rolandooo

Wow! Alot of nice rigs









Heres some pictures of my rigs.


































I finally put my folding rig in a case this weekend and hooked up to my tv.


----------



## R00ST3R

^Right on, a WC'd X-clio 380A. I've got one of those sitting in my closet. Great case for $99 bucks.^


----------



## Liselotte

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


pics


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unacceptable*


Nah not raining on it at all, it was a prise a from a tourney held by a local comp shop. More or less I knew it wasn't the greatest stuff from the research I did after winning, but its a nice start into water cooling for me







. After all this is my first rig, and the wc system will change with it as I upgrade.


That's definitely a start bro, I have had some Koolance stuff myself and as they aren't the greatest, they are not the worst. Their quality is really good though IMO. Good luck with your first WC journey


----------



## mcpetrolhead

Hey all

My loop isn't quite finished yet.

I don't have a radiator yet, just a 25liter drum of water i use as a heat dump.
My pump is a modified submersible pond pump which now takes a direct intake.
Waterblock is created by me.
Brass and plastic barbs from local hardware store.


























I have a sort of build log in my sig... have a read trough it has all about how i made the block.

Oh and SHINY


----------



## bundymania




----------



## oliverw92

Dude.... are those solid brass tops?


----------



## bundymania

Yes, it weights ~850 grams in combination with the pump !


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*









































I must Say Phobya make some great stuff!! I've got there 150 Res and the Quality is unmatchecd!!

Add me to the club please!!







Will be getting a 5970 cover if i can find one in holland!!


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Dude.... are those solid brass tops?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Yes, it weights ~850 grams in combination with the pump !










And its a shame they then had to go and coat them with silver and black nickel


----------



## oliverw92

Nothing wrong with plating it, sometimes shiny brass doesn't suite a build!


----------



## bundymania

@Foxy: Look at the Alphacool Yellowstone with brass top, who wants such a waterblock ? right, max. 3 of 100 people...or less







So they decide not to offer such a version.










or the Zern Block:










and than look at this:



















BLING BLING


----------



## oliverw92

FOxy is talking about polished brass, not horrible brass like that. In otherwords, he is basically talking about Fstfrddy blocks


----------



## bundymania

Ok, thatÂ´s better







I polished a Zern PQ+ some years ago and it looks like this:










(better donÂ´t ask, how long does it took and how my hands and floor looked after this procedure





















)


----------



## oliverw92

Pfft, proper brass polishing:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## oliverw92

Lmao kevin that isn't mine, i was just showing bundy a frddy block


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Lmao kevin that isn't mine, i was just showing bundy a frddy block









haha, alright, fixed.


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
FOxy is talking about polished brass, not horrible brass like that. In otherwords, he is basically talking about Fstfrddy blocks









WHich he owns









Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Ok, thatÂ´s better







I polished a Zern PQ+ some years ago and it looks like this:

(better donÂ´t ask, how long does it took and how my hands and floor looked after this procedure





















)

Must have been fun.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Pfft, proper brass polishing:


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Pfft, proper brass polishing:

yess!!! now that's what I'm talking about.....

@Bundy BLING BLING \\/ \\/ \\/ \\/


----------



## oliverw92

YOu need brass barbs foxy


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
YOu need brass barbs foxy

I couldn't find any in stock when I put the loop together.......


----------



## oliverw92

Ah well, i spose they go with the Enzo fittings you got too.

Btw what temps you getting on that block?


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Ah well, i spose they go with the Enzo fittings you got too.

Btw what temps you getting on that block?


in my roasting hot bedroom *man flu







* 32-3 idle 40-41 load

I made a bad fan choice aswell....so I'm ordering some 2or3k Ultra kaze's and a controller on friday


----------



## oliverw92

Nice delta!


----------



## Korben

Here are some quick shots of my new case and water cooling setup. First time and no leaks so I was pretty excited I was able to finally get 4.0Ghz stable.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Korben* 
Here are some quick shots of my new case and water cooling setup. First time and no leaks so I was pretty excited I was able to finally get 4.0Ghz stable.













































not bad bro, the only thing I see you should try is getting some angled fittings or something to eliminate that loop in the front drive bay. Other than that you are good


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Korben* 









Is that an EVGA GTX 280 in there?









If so can I have it when you get the GTX 480 you say you have coming in your sig? ;-)


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Korben* 
Here are some quick shots of my new case and water cooling setup. First time and no leaks so I was pretty excited I was able to finally get 4.0Ghz stable.













































Looks to me like you have liquid running *into* the *outlet* on the CPU block.


----------



## oliverw92

Don't think so coolmiester, he has the outlet of the pump going to the res then into the rad then into the inlet of the cpu block. Would be much better with the res before the pump though.

Btw welcome to OCN coolmiester, hope we get to see some of your crazy worklogs on here!


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Don't think so coolmiester, he has the outlet of the pump going to the res then into the rad then into the inlet of the cpu block. Would be much better with the res before the pump though.

Btw welcome to OCN coolmiester, hope we get to see some of your crazy worklogs on here!

I think he does have the res before the pump if my eyes are working right...

res>pump>cpu>rad>res...is how he is going I think, with the inlet being on the top of the pump


----------



## oliverw92

Oh my bad i got confused with the directions of the pump top. Yeah it is the wrong way round then.


----------



## killerhz

here is my build log for anyone that cares/// glad to finally have joined


----------



## bundymania

Prototype:










You can connect it directly to the mainboard or Aqauaero etc.


----------



## mcpetrolhead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Prototype:










You can connect it directly to the mainboard or Aqauaero etc.

Is that a flow sensor?


----------



## bundymania

Yep !
















YouTube- gmr-afs-tl.MTS


----------



## mcpetrolhead

nice... got any more info on it?


----------



## bundymania

i can send you the datasheet in pdf format, just pn me your mail address.


----------



## Chicken Patty

That's a very nice flow meter bundy


----------



## bundymania

IÂ´m awaiting your Package with one Supreme HF for me, Joel


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Liselotte

loooking good.


----------



## Oli4v

Dual loops internal WC, except the PA120.1 on the back, Fully thermochilled since yesterday, swapped the rx120 for my layin' 'round pa120.1









specs in sig, and need to get my Neo He Sleeved, sleeving is coming this way from the netherlands.




























oooh, and some polished rads ... (polished all of my rads, just one PA160.1 to go.









RX120 and RX240









PA120.2









PA120.1 and 2 PA120.3's


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## coolmiester

Bit of a work in progress but should be finished by the end of the week.

*System Spec:*
Corsair Obsidian 800D
Corsair HX1000 PSU
Supermicro X8DAi Rev2
Intel X5680 CPU's
12GB DDR3-1333 Non ECC
32GB Intel Extreme SSD
2TB Western Digital Sata Drives x2
ATI XFX Radeon 5970's
Reeven Fans
TFT Touch Screen

*Watercooling Spec:*
HWLabs SR-1 360 X-Flow (custom)
HWLabs SR-1 240
HK 3 CPU Blocks
MIPs RAM Freezer Blocks
EK 5970 Blocks
XSPC Dual Pump/Res
Bitspower Matt Black 1/2" fittings all round
Primochill 7/16" hose


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coolmiester* 










Nice green!


----------



## killerhz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oli4v* 
Dual loops internal WC, except the PA120.1 on the back, Fully thermochilled since yesterday, swapped the rx120 for my layin' 'round pa120.1









specs in sig, and need to get my Neo He Sleeved, sleeving is coming this way from the netherlands.

oooh, and some polished rads ... (polished all of my rads, just one PA160.1 to go.

RX120 and RX240

PA120.2

PA120.1 and 2 PA120.3's









nice rig...

what is thermochilled?

nice work on the polished rads but i like them better in black. still great work.


----------



## Oli4v

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killerhz* 
nice rig...

what is thermochilled?

nice work on the polished rads but i like them better in black. still great work.

Everything's is cooled with thermochill rad's ! (thermochil rads => thermochilled







)

Polishing the rads costed me a lot of time and elbow grease


----------



## R1P5AW

Kevin-this is definitely the coolest thread on OCN

you're the man!


----------



## just a noob

What happened to that nickel plated ek supreme Cu?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coolmiester* 









dude, that is intense.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
Kevin-this is definitely the coolest thread on OCN

you're the man!

haha, thanks. ;-)


----------



## Liselotte

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coolmiester* 
bit of a work in progress but should be finished by the end of the week.

*system spec:*
corsair obsidian 800d
corsair hx1000 psu
supermicro x8dai rev2
intel x5680 cpu's
12gb ddr3-1333 non ecc
32gb intel extreme ssd
2tb western digital sata drives x2
ati xfx radeon 5970's
reeven fans
tft touch screen

*watercooling spec:*
hwlabs sr-1 360 x-flow (custom)
hwlabs sr-1 240
hk 3 cpu blocks
mips ram freezer blocks
ek 5970 blocks
xspc dual pump/res
bitspower matt black 1/2" fittings all round
primochill 7/16" hose

sick!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Korben

Thanks to everyone for the responses.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
not bad bro, the only thing I see you should try is getting some angled fittings or something to eliminate that loop in the front drive bay. Other than that you are good









I will definitely look into it thanks









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Is that an EVGA GTX 280 in there?









If so can I have it when you get the GTX 480 you say you have coming in your sig? ;-)

Its actually 2 GTX 260 216s I'm keeping one and selling the other.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Don't think so coolmiester, he has the outlet of the pump going to the res then into the rad then into the inlet of the cpu block. Would be much better with the res before the pump though.

Btw welcome to OCN coolmiester, hope we get to see some of your crazy worklogs on here!

I believe this is how I have it setup, outlet of pump to the inlet of the res outlet of the res to the rad and then to the cpu out the cpu to the pump.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
I think he does have the res before the pump if my eyes are working right...

res>pump>cpu>rad>res...is how he is going I think, with the inlet being on the top of the pump

idk if this is any different tbh pump->cpu->rad->res->pump ?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Oh my bad i got confused with the directions of the pump top. Yeah it is the wrong way round then.

If I got it the wrong way should I disassemble the entire thing and redo the entire loop?


----------



## dido714

hey, just got a 5870 yesterday and i was wondering if i could cool it and my 920 on a dual rad? thats prob. all i could fit in my mid case. it would be the black ice pro II radiator and prob. a DD-5870 block for the 5870? what do u think? seeing all these awesome rigs makes me want to beef up mine


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Korben* 

If I got it the wrong way should I disassemble the entire thing and redo the entire loop?

All you need to do is drain the loop and swap over the two tubes on the cpu block (the one that is currently at the bottom needs to be in the middle and the middle needs to be at the bottom)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dido714* 
hey, just got a 5870 yesterday and i was wondering if i could cool it and my 920 on a dual rad? thats prob. all i could fit in my mid case. it would be the black ice pro II radiator and prob. a DD-5870 block for the 5870? what do u think? seeing all these awesome rigs makes me want to beef up mine









Temps wouldn't be great, and you wouldn't have much oc'ing headroom, but it would work. Have you thought about mounting a rad externally?


----------



## Chicken Patty

I7 920's can use a full loop alone for themselves, adding a 5870 is not the best thing to do, but if would work.


----------



## SwishaMane

Heres my rig for the club...

     
       

Phenom II 965 C3 @ 4.028ghz 1.488vcore, 2000nb @ 1.3v
8GB Green Corsair Dominators @ 1333 for stability, 1600 is iffy @8GB
5870 w/ DD block, 1050 / 1300 @ 1.3vcore
etc, etc...

XSPC RX360 with 3 Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpms
Swiftec MCP-655-b
FrozenQ T-virus reservoir
Heatkiller 3.0 AMD Edition (obviously)
DangerDen 5870 only GPU block
Anfi-tec MSI GD-70 nb/vrm block
Masterkleer 7/16" ID 5/8" OD tube (do not buy from crazypc, toob has "For product Warning Info call 1-800-xxx-xxx" printed on it, UGH!!!)

Temps are good... 
Ambient is 21C
CPU and GPU idle: 32C and 30C
CPU and GPU load: 52C and 50C

Temps for both staya round same temp all the time, within a few degrees, which makes sense for both in same loop, lol


----------



## Korben

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
All you need to do is drain the loop and swap over the two tubes on the cpu block (the one that is currently at the bottom needs to be in the middle and the middle needs to be at the bottom)

Oh ok that doesn't sound bad at all. Thanks for everyones input.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Looks nice swish


----------



## sunjoo

nice res SwishaMane


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## dido714

thanks, i like keeping my stuff internal, but i may think about putting it outside. maybe i will get a bigger case when i hv more money.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## n8t1308

Hey guys my loop is about 2-3 weeks old now and it keeps getting foggy. Whats the deal? ive must have drained it and refilled it at least seven times now and it continues to stay foggy. 3 drops of PT Nuke each water change.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *n8t1308* 
Hey guys my loop is about 2-3 weeks old now and it keeps getting foggy. Whats the deal? ive must have drained it and refilled it at least seven times now and it continues to stay foggy. 3 drops of PT Nuke each water change.

Did you flush the loops properly? Some say to use hot water and vinegar and run it for a bit so it can clean out all the flux and stuff. I used only hot water for about 10 minutes and it worked great. Loop never got dirty again, however I'm sure the addition of vinegar would help cleansing more thoroughly.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

bundy now has 65 posts....


----------



## n8t1308

So I can run hot water and vinegar through my loop just as long as I rinse it out with some more clean hot water?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *n8t1308*


So I can run hot water and vinegar through my loop just as long as I rinse it out with some more clean hot water?


Not sure if you need to do that after, but sure you can let some more hot water clean out the water/vinegar.


----------



## n8t1308

I there a good way to flush a system with the hot water continuously or do I have to fill it, drain it, fill it, drain it...etc


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

bundy now has 65 posts....


He should just make his own thread.....or something

something....meaning list what items/products are in the pics he is posting


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *n8t1308*


I there a good way to flush a system with the hot water continuously or do I have to fill it, drain it, fill it, drain it...etc


What I did was I grabbed my rad with the fittings installed. I took some tubing and I ran it from the faucet to the rad and from the rad into the sink. Crank the faucet open all the way and it's enough pressure to clean it, I let it run for about 10 minutes with the water at the hottest. I just had a plier to hold the tubing under the faucet to keep feeding it water so i didn't have to touch the very hot water LOL. HOwever if you are going to use vinegar I am not sure on how to do it. there is a really good guide somewhere, but I can't remember where.


----------



## chozandrias76

Once I get w/c for my 2 4870x2's in addition to the already w/c cpu, do I need to have side fans on my HAF 932? I am thinking that the mosfets and North+south bridge will be cooled enough by the radiator in the top, the front and the rear fan. What do you guys think? I am asking because I am thinking of taking out the fans and modding my side panel with a sheet of acrylic.


----------



## Blue Marker

Well, after months of reading and deciding, I finally went WC. But now I want to bigger radiator ... I blame you OCN.


----------



## Chicken Patty

^^^ White always looks good







First build? Great job dude.


----------



## Blue Marker

Thanks, yeah first loop. It was really fun building it.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Marker*


Thanks, yeah first loop. It was really fun building it.


You did a heck of a job, much better than my first loop


----------



## Blue Marker

Is your first loop that blue one? Nice! I love the colors. Like a royal blue. But I am a bit color blind so it may actually be purple lol. But still, awesome color.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blue Marker* 









Well, after months of reading and deciding, I finally went WC. But now I want to bigger radiator ... I blame you OCN.









what fans are those ?=O
they look like the fractal fans but i cant seem to find them anywhere


----------



## xlr8ter

They look like the new NZXT fans..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

bundy, please tell us what it is we are looking at at least...


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 









zZzZz









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
bundy, please tell us what it is we are looking at at least...

^^^^

magicool slim 140 rad


----------



## Blue Marker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


what fans are those ?=O
they look like the fractal fans but i cant seem to find them anywhere


Yep, those are the NZXT fans.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blue Marker* 









Well, after months of reading and deciding, I finally went WC. But now I want to bigger radiator ... I blame you OCN.









I dont want to come across as a douche, but before you get a bigger rad, are you sure the rad you have is 100% full? That's a mistake I made. I upgraded to a bigger rad, then realized I might need to tip the rig forward while its on to fill it completely. I'm such a noob still. Just an idea before you go through hassle to upgrade, lol.


----------



## killerhz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blue Marker* 









Well, after months of reading and deciding, I finally went WC. But now I want to bigger radiator ... I blame you OCN.









sweet looking set-up.


----------



## Blue Marker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
I dont want to come across as a douche, but before you get a bigger rad, are you sure the rad you have is 100% full? That's a mistake I made. I upgraded to a bigger rad, then realized I might need to tip the rig forward while its on to fill it completely. I'm such a noob still. Just an idea before you go through hassle to upgrade, lol.

Nope, not a douche at all. I actually remember reading something about tilting and shaking the tower but I didn't do it. I'll do next time I work in my PC. Thanks for the tip.

EDIT: Does the PC have to be on when I do it?


----------



## SwishaMane

For the pressure to work with the rad, I think so. At least I would. Gonna be hard to get rad completely full and airless without the water moving. Probably take a few to get all the air out on top of that. I had to hit he side of my rad after tilting and assuming it was full to get the air to break, and get the water to eventually fill the space. I got improved temps after, so, it was worth it.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Marker*


Nope, not a douche at all. I actually remember reading something about tilting and shaking the tower but I didn't do it. I'll do next time I work in my PC. Thanks for the tip.

EDIT: Does the PC have to be on when I do it?



Very nice setup! Ya you need to tilt & shake your computer, but I always jump my 24-pin so that all that's running is my pump. You don't want your hard drive running while you shake the computer! Just my 2cents worth.


----------



## Blue Marker

Cool, ill make sure to have the pump on when getting all the air out. Thanks for the help!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *n8t1308*


Hey guys my loop is about 2-3 weeks old now and it keeps getting foggy. Whats the deal? ive must have drained it and refilled it at least seven times now and it continues to stay foggy. 3 drops of PT Nuke each water change.


From my experience, it is a calcium/limescale buildup. I went to my hardware store and purchased some solution to remove it and mixed it with hot water. If it is the calcium buildup, then hot water won't solve the problem. I tried washing my previous tank with hot water, which was a waste of time as it fogged back up almost straight away. The calcium + limescale solution however did stop the clouding.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Marker*











Well, after months of reading and deciding, I finally went WC. But now I want to bigger radiator ... I blame you OCN.










ahh there is beautiful!


----------



## Unacceptable

Got my parts in and built it last night, just a simple cpu loop. As of right now I only have crappy cell phone shots, the wife seems to be hiding the camera from me. Will update with better shots once I find it.








[/IMG]


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## rubicsphere

Here's a night shot of my sig rig.


----------



## killerhz

so much win in here. wish my rig came out like the rest of yours. the white tubing above looks amazing.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## DraganUS

How much leak testing in hours in enough?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


How much leak testing in hours in enough?


I do 24-48 hours, but it is up to you. (got a leak at 33 hours first time)


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


How much leak testing in hours in enough?


 I just plug and play without leaking test since 2009..







anyway do you test leaking at vehicle??


----------



## DraganUS

I guess I'm gonna leave it over night. Just to be on the safe side. Its been running 4 hours so far without drop. Will see.


----------



## chozandrias76

I just installed my first 4870x2 water block and I found some temperatures disturbing:
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/9342/40315146.jpg
One of the core one temps.
CCC reports my temps at 43 C.
I just wanted to know if it was ok before I proceeded to play SC2.


----------



## chozandrias76

well I guess I am going to have to take it apart. I tried playing SC2 and those two high temp cores hit 168 and then my graphics card shut off. Luckily it doesn't look like there is any damage, I hope that it is just a minor thermal pad re-adjustment problem. Does anyone know what specific part of the card goes with those respective high temperatures?


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


*How much leak testing in hours in enough?*



Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I just plug and play without leaking test since 2009..







anyway do you test leaking at vehicle??


same, I just make sure all fittings are "ample" tightened and everything else should be ok.....

No leaks so far


----------



## kromar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chozandrias76*


I just installed my first 4870x2 water block and I found some temperatures disturbing:
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/9342/40315146.jpg
One of the core one temps.
CCC reports my temps at 43 C.
I just wanted to know if it was ok before I proceeded to play SC2.


is that desktop wallpaper your setup? if so you might wanna close that loop on the gpus... other wise you wont have waterflow at all


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kromar* 
is that desktop wallpaper your setup? if so you might wanna close that loop on the gpus... other wise you wont have waterflow at all

it is closed. the bridge between the two cards is just black so it is hard to see.


----------



## Unacceptable

Ok, so I found the camera. So yeah this is my very first loop, in my very first build







.

Parts:

BLK: Koolance 360 rev 1.1
Reservoir and Pump: Koolance RP-1000BK
Rad: Koolance HX-CU720H


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## pegasus-rtf

Up and running, but still waiting on some items to arrive. Plan is:

EVGA X58 SLI Classified Motherboard, Core i7 950 3.06 GHz
12GB RAM, 1600MHz Corsair Dominator PC12800 
Thermaltake Armor Water Cooled Case + PWB 100 Water Block for LGA1366
Custom built Locking Caster Wheel Assembly for Case
PC Power Silencer 750W Quad Black PSU
RAID 1 Two Seagate ST32000641AS Barracuda XT HD - 2TB, 7200 RPM
Plextor PX-B940SA Blu Ray Burner
BFG GeForce GTX 260 overclocked video card 
NVIDIA 3D Vision Glasses
Acer GD235HZbid 23.6" 2ms Widescreen 1080p 120Hz LCD Monitor
Logitech Cordless MX 5500 Revolution, Rechargeable Laser Mouse, Keyboard 
AVerMedia MTVCOMG2W AVerTV Combo G2 TV Tuner
Andrea PureAudio full-duplex USB SoundPod Soundcard
Hybrid Samson Airline 77 wireless microphone
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64BIT Operating System
Nuance Dragon Naturally Speaking 10.1 Pref Speech Recognition software
KnowBrainer Univoice software
Microsoft Office Small Business 2007
Linksys Wireless Card

I had a Machine Shop build the caster wheel assembly seen in the
Computer2 picture.


----------



## oliverw92

You should be informed that Thermaltake watercooling is dodgy and should really be avoided. The pumps have a very high failure rate, acrylic parts in their loops crack over time, the blocks give average performance. In the future, stay clear!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


You should be informed that Thermaltake watercooling is dodgy and should really be avoided. The pumps have a very high failure rate, acrylic parts in their loops crack over time, the blocks give average performance. In the future, stay clear!


I agree. I've had a Thermaltake reservoir in the past and the acrylic cracked and the water leaked out everywhere. You will be much safer building your own custom loop than relying on a Thermaltake kit. I wouldn't take my chances with their kits, especially with the kind of hardware you have.


----------



## Duckkie

Can you add me to the list? Thank you!


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I agree. I've had a Thermaltake reservoir in the past and the acrylic cracked and the water leaked out everywhere. You will be much safer building your own custom loop than relying on a Thermaltake kit. I wouldn't take my chances with their kits, especially with the kind of hardware you have.


Could you see it through your window?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I just got me a stable full time job, so that means.... water cool upgrades














and all sorts of good stuff
















I just bought 4 matte black comp fittings from Lysdexik, now I just need 4 more from Sidewinder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Duckkie* 
Can you add me to the list? Thank you!

you must post pictures first. ;-) read the rules.


----------



## pegasus-rtf

Thanks for the heads up on the Thermaltake!

This is my first watercooled build. It is up and running, but I'm still waiting on some parts and software. I plan to finish in early May.

I shall begin looking into upgrade parts, like the pump for example.

The Thermaltake armor case had 10 expansion slots, accommodated ATX extended motherboard and had water cooling. I previously was disappointed with the Thermaltake Tsunami Dream air cooled case. The airflow was very poor, inadequate air filters and so forth. I was able to install several modifications and got my CPU running cool.

I'm not surprised at the warnings about Thermaltake!

I'm on disability and cannot even pick up this computer. It's going to weigh about 75 pounds. I have bolted an aluminum plate to the bottom and attached industrial caster wheels. The machine shop was outrageously expensive for the parts, but I had to do that.

Hopefully, I can make it to next year without problems and upgrade the cooling system when I do maintenance.

I'm open to recommendations for the pump and other parts.

Thanks, again!


----------



## pcnuttie

You seriously not using Thermaltake water cooling kit are you? I heard it has serious problems and leaks and pump doesn't last. But that's just me. Swiftech is your best friend.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
You seriously not using Thermaltake water cooling kit are you? I heard it has serious problems and leaks and pump doesn't last. But that's just me. Swiftech is your best friend.

It isn't a massive problem lol, don't scare him. Lots of people use the thermaltake kits, and you do hear alot of failure stories, but if they were really so awful that EVERY single one failed, i'm pretty sure the company would have several law suits against them. Also swiftech isn't entirely your friend, there are much better options for things out there, and they have had some quality control issues recently.


----------



## chozandrias76

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kromar* 
is that desktop wallpaper your setup? if so you might wanna close that loop on the gpus... other wise you wont have waterflow at all

Haha no, that is not my setup. This is it now:
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9605/img5800w.jpg
So my system didn't crash this time, but when loading SC2 my "#1: Core temperature \\ memory IO" went up to 120C before I closed out of starcraft then immediately went down to 89 and now it is at 69. Can someone tell me where on the 4870x2 I am missing something? Is the program I am using not correct?
(My first problem was that I didn't put paste on the bridge between GPUs. Big OOPS!)


----------



## t-ramp

The only thing I can think of is that the block isn't seated properly, and it isn't in contact with your memory chips or one of the cores.


----------



## R1P5AW

I got all my goodies in and started a worklog. I'm painting the inside of my HAF matte black today and can't wait to get this bad boy up and running!


----------



## Duckkie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

you must post pictures first. ;-) read the rules. 

Oh okay, my bad forgot to read the rules hehe. All my parts are on the way, they will be here today and my WC parts will be here Wednesday. I'll have pics posted up this weekend!


----------



## Liselotte

bundy, stop posting porn, its against the TOS!


----------



## -javier-

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pegasus-rtf* 
Up and running, but still waiting on some items to arrive. Plan is:

EVGA X58 SLI Classified Motherboard, Core i7 950 3.06 GHz
12GB RAM, 1600MHz Corsair Dominator PC12800
Thermaltake Armor Water Cooled Case + PWB 100 Water Block for LGA1366
Custom built Locking Caster Wheel Assembly for Case
PC Power Silencer 750W Quad Black PSU
RAID 1 Two Seagate ST32000641AS Barracuda XT HD - 2TB, 7200 RPM
Plextor PX-B940SA Blu Ray Burner
BFG GeForce GTX 260 overclocked video card
NVIDIA 3D Vision Glasses
Acer GD235HZbid 23.6" 2ms Widescreen 1080p 120Hz LCD Monitor
Logitech Cordless MX 5500 Revolution, Rechargeable Laser Mouse, Keyboard
AVerMedia MTVCOMG2W AVerTV Combo G2 TV Tuner
Andrea PureAudio full-duplex USB SoundPod Soundcard
Hybrid Samson Airline 77 wireless microphone
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64BIT Operating System
Nuance Dragon Naturally Speaking 10.1 Pref Speech Recognition software
KnowBrainer Univoice software
Microsoft Office Small Business 2007
Linksys Wireless Card

I had a Machine Shop build the caster wheel assembly seen in the
Computer2 picture.


i have the same case that came with the liquid cooling system, i had to completely upgrade the entire cooling system even the rad.


----------



## oliverw92

Just thought i should bring something to your attention - the crimes of Aquatuning!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=226794

Don't buy from there any more!


----------



## Curtiis95

Hey mates ! There is my first rig ! So please, be sympathetic








I'm French so my english suxx Sorry









There is my computer characteristics :

Case : Haf 932
Power supply : Corsair TX650W
GPU : ATI HD4870 Gainward 1Go
Memory : 6Gb (2x2Go G.skill DDR2 and 2Go Samsung)
Hard disks : 4To : (4x WD10EAVS Green Caviar)
Processor : Intel E8500 3.16 GHz Overclocked to 4Ghz.
Motherboard : ASUS P5Q PRO
Watercooling : Thermaltake BigWater 780
Baybus : NZXT Sentry Lx
Water tank : Thermaltake Aquabay M1
Tuner TV Card Samsung
CPU Waterblock : OCZ Hydraflow HFMK1
5 in 1 SmartMedia Card Reader

Some pics :










































































Comment On !!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Curtiis95

Thx


----------



## gildadan

sign me up I want to join.

This one you can see the rez









This one you can see the rad next to the a/c evap










Oh and good garden hose works well.







If you don't mind 5/8 that is.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey gildadan, what are you cooling with that?

updated


----------



## R1P5AW

A little snip from my Worklog..










Some more of the WC getup..























































A little push and a little pull


----------



## Chicken Patty

^^^just lovely!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R1P5AW

thanks guys









Can't wait to get wet


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


thanks guys









Can't wait to get wet


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*












Start watercooling...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r1p5aw* 
start watercooling...









lol


----------



## chozandrias76

Should I RMA my water block?








temps aren't getting any better (3rd time install)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chozandrias76* 
Should I RMA my water block?








temps aren't getting any better (3rd time install)

saw your thread about this issue and replied.

what temps you getting on gpu #1? 120 is remarkably high, try the stock cooler and check for temps, run for a few hours if temps are about norm for stock, wanna check off it aint your 4870x2.


----------



## oliverw92

Are you sure your 4870x2 is reference?


----------



## chozandrias76

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Are you sure your 4870x2 is reference?

I don't understand what you are saying.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chozandrias76* 
I don't understand what you are saying.

some card makers change the layout of the components (gpu, chips, ram, etc) and the block may be for a different design, happend to me when i ordered the ek 4870 "gs" block for my sapphire, the block was for the ati reference, I neglected to use the EK compatibilty tool, though i was luck that the gpu and rams matched, the chips on the other hand i had to customize the heatsink to fit, works great btw,


----------



## chozandrias76

This is exactly what I got: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814161242 I am pretty sure the layout is standard. Anyways, I am going to leave the card as it is right now. I won't play any games and if the MemIO or shader goes over 90C I will shut down the card and use my laptop in the meantime.


----------



## Chicken Patty

a non reference card can def. cause that issue. I would try to confirm if yours is reference or not to know if the issue is the block or the card bro. Good luck


----------



## oliverw92

It looks reference. Hmm, very odd tbh. What size rad are you running on?


----------



## Witchdoctor

Here are some pics of my latest gamer e-mailer build ....


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor* 
Here are some pics of my latest gamer e-mailer build ....

Very cool


----------



## chozandrias76

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


It looks reference. Hmm, very odd tbh. What size rad are you running on?


360 MM. I am going to go through my installation with a XSPC rep. Hopefully he can figure out what the heck I am doing wrong.


----------



## Ballz0r84

Hi and here is my simple set


















In my cm690 :










- X2O Delta V4 CPU Waterblok
- X2O 450 12V Pomp/Reservoir
- RS120 Radiator
- Low Noise 1700rpm 120mm Fan (Forget the Low Noise part







)
- 120mm Fan Grill
- Clear 10/8mm Tubing
- Feser One UV Acid Green Coolant


----------



## kizzam

This is my water cooled pc





















































_OCN Water Cooling Club_


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kizzam*


This is my water cooled pc

PICS












+rep


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*











+rep


this.......


----------



## sliprty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kizzam*


This is my water cooled pc
snip


83 degrees with water AND 2 rads








It's starting to boil!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*











+rep


Jesus, that is one beautiful rig. more pics?


----------



## imh073p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kizzam*


This is my water cooled pc


Dang thats alot of rad action, 2 screws per rad to mount?


----------



## xlr8ter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kizzam*


This is my water cooled pc











Two words: EH PICK!


----------



## tke395

Question guys what do ya'll think about these fans? looking at getting some for my triple rad . Isn't it good static pressure that we are looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Sanyo-Denki-...item1e5ba7e856


----------



## tke395

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kizzam*


This is my water cooled pc

















_OCN Water Cooling Club_










Oh my god....... what type of mount did you use for those rads? and what type of pump ? I know my 600l/hour pump will push for my triple rad I just dont know if it could handle 2 rads?

oh yeah + 1 rep


----------



## bundymania

Here i am again folks, today iÂ´m showing you the brandnew block from the UK Company XSPC:


----------



## IntelFloyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sliprty*


83 degrees with water AND 2 rads








It's starting to boil!


Its 4.4 with a 920 i7.
Of course with just the CPU and chipset in the loop that is very warm IMO.


----------



## IntelFloyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tke395*


Oh my god....... what type of mount did you use for those rads? and what type of pump ? I know my 600l/hour pump will push


Its a Koolance rad mount.
And my little 355 pump has no issues with all the rads and blocks in my loop and its only 454L/h


----------



## wermad

hey ppl, my rig is down and drained due to Im sleeving individually the psu







, my current wc set up is pump>block>rad>res, I know this is contra the suggested "norm" in water cooling, I have some length avail. *Im thinking of going w/ pump>rad>block>res. what do you guys think?*

edit: after some more research, it aint worth tearing everything down to make the change, gonna stick w/ the current setup


----------



## kizzam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tke395*


Oh my god....... what type of mount did you use for those rads? and what type of pump ? I know my 600l/hour pump will push for my triple rad I just dont know if it could handle 2 rads?

oh yeah + 1 rep











Carrier which carries two quad HWlabs GTX 480 radiator is Koolance.Pump which makes the water through the whole system is Swiftech MCP 655.My copy i7 920 processor requires a higher voltage and are therefore harder temperature.All system is designed to cool even more and graphics card and it will be soon.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

sorry for not updating the last day or two.


----------



## kizzam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

sorry for not updating the last day or two.











Thanks man


----------



## bundymania




----------



## IntelFloyd

Yet another DDC top... yawn.
Cmon Bundy I know you have something better than that.


----------



## Duckkie

Okay got my build put together now!

*
COMP SPECS:*
Case: Cooler Master HAF 932
Mobo: eVGA X58 3x SLI
Cpu: Core i7 920
Vga: XFX HD5770 1Gb
Memory: 6Gb Corsair Dominator 8-8-8-24
Drive: LG 24x Dvd Burner
Hardrive: WD 320Gb 7200Rpm
Psu: Corsair TX650W
Os: Windows 7 64-bit
*-----------------------------**


LOOP SPECS:
Cpu WB: Apogee XT
Radiator: Swiftech 220
Pump: MCP-655
Res: Swiftech Rev. 2























































To view full thread of my build: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...rning-x58.html*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## skkhai

Another 300 build for me. The "family" computer.


















MCR220 shrouded push/pull, Apogee GT, D5 + UN Bracket


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Today, i would like to show you a rare but nice waterblock from a small company in Magdeburg / Germany:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## whe3ls




----------



## Bacheezi

Finally my 5870 wc project can be posted



























Its still leak testing atm, so no side cover yet. Case is still a mess aswell, need to fix a few things as you can see, but the WCing is working out perfectly!

In the future i'll probably end up doing my cpu aswell, but for now my h50 is fine. The loop isn't really meant for amazing temps, its meant to be as quiet as possible.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Another very nice block, this time from watercool.de


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Oli4v

Finally done


----------



## DJLiquid

My build:










Apogee XT, MCP355 w/ XSPC top, MCR360, BP matte black 1/2" barbs, 7/16 Primochill tubing and GT AP15 fans on rad (pull config)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## max0ut132

Whatcha think?


----------



## ny_driver

Here are some pictures of my first water-cooling system, just installed Friday.









I think it came out pretty nicely. I'm going to buy an A/C for my computer room this week, and the radiator side of the computer will be no more than 3 feet from the A/C. Even with water things get a little warm when it's like 80-90 degrees in here. I'd like to put a water chiller in the loop.









EDIT: 6500 BTU A/C bought and installed







ahhhhhhhhhhhhh it's so nice in here







idle temps are dropping fast. 1 more A/C to install before I can do any testing.

EDIT: after testing the max load temps were 43/38c during s&m @ 100% load. How about that $150-6500 BTU water chiller?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

not trying to be rude or anything but do some of u guys ever clean the inside of your rigs?

do it not bother u how dirty it looks?


----------



## Mitchell7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy*


not trying to be rude or anything but do some of u guys ever clean the inside of your rigs?

do it not bother u how dirty it looks?


Well it all depends, some people leave their rigs running 24/7 for a few months at a time, so when it comes to snapping a shot it might have already been running for 4 months or whatever, and in that time it's gathered some dust.

Most of us here know the importance of cleaning the insides of our systems and usually do it after a certain period of time. I clean mines every 4 months and also keep the dust down in my room on a weekly basis so that there's not as much build up.


----------



## whe3ls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy*


not trying to be rude or anything but do some of u guys ever clean the inside of your rigs?

do it not bother u how dirty it looks?


 dont care as long as its quiet and it works


----------



## Bacheezi

my case itsself is a little dirty atm, but the important stuff is always very clean


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mitchell7* 
Most of us here know the importance of cleaning the insides of our systems and usually do it after a certain period of time. I clean mines every 4 months and also keep the dust down in my room on a weekly basis so that there's not as much build up.










im partially rebuilding/modding my case every few months so that is the only time i clean it TBH


----------



## Mr. Scary

So can i get in on this with my Free standing, Chill Pill?
Loop 1 Boreas MTEC 12 for CPU
Loop 2 Water for 2 Alpha Dogs
Swiftech and Koolance throughout.

tx much!

M$

ps-anyone know where i can get some serious 'purple' tubing?

Started off with an ancient WaveMaster case I got off of Criag's List, $20.




































Wound up with this







!!!









































































I'll post some pics with the addition of the UV Lights, sleeving, and ties, later tonight!


----------



## bundymania

Mixed Pictures today - Alphacool Smart Motion Board Block, Alphacool Yellowstone CPU Waterblock, Watercool Heatkiller 3.0


----------



## Mr. Scary

Great pics, bro! Keep 'em comin'!!!

M$

btw, nice engraving as well, how did you do that?


----------



## bundymania

The Guys from Watercool.de did that for me


----------



## mmx+

I know all of you with "real" WC setups are going to laugh at this, but here's my WC setup:








Temps are pretty good and it's silent, so I'm happy


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 











nice what ram is that? and is that the dfi x48 t2rs ?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mmx+* 
I know all of you with "real" WC setups are going to laugh at this, but here's my WC setup:
IMG
Temps are pretty good and it's silent, so I'm happy









I dont laugh at you, tbh i have my wc stuff somewhere in a box, and an H50 installed







Nice setup


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mmx+* 
I know all of you with "real" WC setups are going to laugh at this, but here's my WC setup:








Temps are pretty good and it's silent, so I'm happy









It's still a real water cooling setup







You have water, a cpu block and a radiator etc so it's real. Take a look at the most recent system on million-dollar-pc.com too and you will see that the H50 is used in it too. Definitely no shame in having an H50 as opposed to a fully fledged custom loop.


----------



## ny_driver

I would have bought an H50 probably if it was compatible with my socket.


----------



## Oli4v




----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oli4v* 









Show us the inside, too.









EDIT: looks like it's on wheels and out on the back deck.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Show us the inside, too.









and dont forget the front! and all the parts used!


----------



## oliverw92

I want the creativity award


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

you deff get that mate, awsome dragon is awsome xD


----------



## Chicken Patty

nice looking setup MMX


----------



## Oli4v

it wil come soon, you've seen it allready, but those pics taken outside are just gorgeous


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*











I want the creativity award










bundy did that in one of his first posts...

if you posted the whole story here though...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## oliverw92

Fine then


















Once upon a time in Bitspower Land, an army of evil compressions was forming!










One day they ganged up on two helpless passthrough fittings, demanding them to reveal the secret of how to get 'Bitspower' written on you!










Suddenly, the Bitspower Monster burst out and came to save the passthrough fittings!










The compressions were terrified and fell over!










'Fear the almighty Bitspower Dragon!'










Up it reared on its hind legs...










And with that the compression fittings ran away for their lives!










The two passthroughs lived happily ever after and went on to have lots of little babies.










However what of the dragon. It grew and grew until it was huge!










It got so big, that it turned evil, and the compressions came back to save the day!










They circled the dragon, attacking from all sides with stop fittings...










Until finally, the dragon was slain!

The end.


----------



## Freakn

No one can say thats been done.

Like to that get topped.


----------



## Lost-boi

Haha that was great! BP dragon fights and everything!


----------



## jarble

I laughed until I cried +1 m8


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

No thanks, I pay for my own fittings through my own hard work.

Ill have pics up next week of my ghetto tech bench.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Alright Olli, you got yourself the latest award.


----------



## Oli4v




----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oli4v*


pics












Incredible build! +rep


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ny_driver

Awesome rig dude. Nice looking fittings.

Hey what do you guys recommend for gpu waterblocks. Cheap and efficient are my 2 priorities. I want to add them to my Swiftech H20-220 Ultima XT loop.
The cooler on my XFX card is crap compared to the one the Sapphire has so I may as well go the extra yard, cool both cards better, and quiet things down some too.
Thanks!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 







Awesome rig dude. Nice looking fittings.

Hey what do you guys recommend for gpu waterblocks. Cheap and efficient are my 2 priorities. I want to add them to my Swiftech H20-220 Ultima XT loop.
The cooler on my XFX card is crap compared to the one the Sapphire has so I may as well go the extra yard, cool both cards better, and quiet things down some too.
Thanks!

you should look into the swiftech MCW-60's and get the matching ram syncs for your cards to go with them.


----------



## Compaddict

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oli4v* 











*Very nice rig!









Do you have a remote control for it?







*


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


No thanks, I pay for my own fittings through my own hard work.


Seriously... what's your problem? I've never done anything to you...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oli4v*


*snip*


Stunning job! I love what you have done with the (bitspower?) rad grill and the clear acrylic - gives a lovely effect! You also have the best name ever









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Hey what do you guys recommend for gpu waterblocks. Cheap and efficient are my 2 priorities. I want to add them to my Swiftech H20-220 Ultima XT loop.
The cooler on my XFX card is crap compared to the one the Sapphire has so I may as well go the extra yard, cool both cards better, and quiet things down some too.
Thanks!


If you can afford it, full cover is the way to go since it watercools your VRAM and GPU. If you are on a budget though, the MCW-60 is very good for cooling the GPU itself, you will need some heatsinks for the VRAMs too.


----------



## ny_driver

Just found a good deal on 2 x D-Tek FuZion GFX, so I guess that's what I'll use.







thanks overclocking101


----------



## R1P5AW

This thread gets better and better. I can't wait to get my loop finished and run with the big dawgs!


----------



## ny_driver

please delete this reply, thanks.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


This thread gets better and better. I can't wait to get my loop finished and run with the big dawgs!


Soon my friend


----------



## Extreme Newbie

Have only been wc'ing for a few months and already have changed my loop 3 times








This is my latest (but not last).

Decided to build a Rad box to hold a MCR320 and a MCR320 drive with MCP355.














































I have a 2nd GTX295 on its way so when it arrives I will be re-doing my loop once again


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Extreme Newbie*


Have only been wc'ing for a few months and already have changed my loop 3 times








This is my latest (but not last).

Decided to build a Rad box to hold a MCR320 and a MCR320 drive with MCP355.

I have a 2nd GTX295 on its way so when it arrives I will be re-doing my loop once again











got a pics/worklog of your creation if you made it?


----------



## Extreme Newbie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


got a pics/worklog of your creation if you made it?


I did make it myself (not too difficult) but didn't make a worklog. I never remember to take pictures when I am working on these things.


----------



## mitchbowman

Here is the Pics and system specs as of today 
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...90-ii-56k.html
I have always admired this club and now hope to be apart of it


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

EK GTX 470 block

mmmm so damn sexxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxy




























I'm gonna go SLI soon just to have double the sexxxxxxyness to look at


































The machining marks sealed the deal for me on the clear top














looks so legit XD and industrial


----------



## Chicken Patty

EK blocks are amazing, looks like a great fit on that card/board


----------



## Liighthead

looks nice.... but isnt it on an angle? :] still looks nice


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Looks straight to me in person, the way it is made, it is sort of slanted on the inside, but the outside fit is nice.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mitchbowman*


Here is the Pics and system specs as of today 
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...90-ii-56k.html
I have always admired this club and now hope to be apart of it


sorry, you must post the pictures here in this thread.


----------



## oliverw92

88EVGA you should get the fullcover EK block for the motherboard in acrylic to match


----------



## bentleya

Where do i start


----------



## oliverw92

You should start with the CF rad grill lol


----------



## bentleya

I'll Save that to Later.


----------



## oliverw92

Lol, building it up slowly


----------



## bentleya

Yerp


----------



## oliverw92

That's a mips block in the top pic right?


----------



## bentleya

Yes. Mips Fusion block for the Gigabyte UD5 Extreme


----------



## bundymania

What a beautiful Res. :


----------



## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Fine then









Once upon a time in Bitspower Land, an army of evil compressions was forming!

One day they ganged up on two helpless passthrough fittings, demanding them to reveal the secret of how to get 'Bitspower' written on you!

Suddenly, the Bitspower Monster burst out and came to save the passthrough fittings!

The compressions were terrified and fell over!

'Fear the almighty Bitspower Dragon!'

Up it reared on its hind legs...

And with that the compression fittings ran away for their lives!

The two passthroughs lived happily ever after and went on to have lots of little babies.

However what of the dragon. It grew and grew until it was huge!

It got so big, that it turned evil, and the compressions came back to save the day!

They circled the dragon, attacking from all sides with stop fittings...










Until finally, the dragon was slain!

The end.

Dude......That was sweet!








lol


----------



## mitchbowman

Parts are:
CPU Block: Swiftech XT
Pump: EK-DCP 2.2
Rad: Swiftech MCR240
Res: Bitspower Bay res
Fans: XIGMATEK Crystal Series
Barbs are all Bitspower 1/2 with 12.5mm tubing




































Fill port through the top of the case


















XIGMATEK 120 (65cfm)









Top mounted Swiftech Rad










Sorry for not posting the pic's here before i thought it would be ok


----------



## DHEnthusiast

there is some nice rigs in here!
Building my new rig I plan on liquid cooling
CPU, mobo and my new graphics cards!

Not sure if I want to liquid cool my ram or not!

Prob, just go with the ram fan coolers


----------



## Bodycount

Oh No!!







Unmoddified H50


----------



## Capwn

Holy crap is your H50 leaking??

EDIT< NVM. your already on it.


----------



## DHEnthusiast

O man all over your EVGA x3 way Classified and stuff... I would be livid


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

the first thing i did was checking my own h50








dont show things like that, they make me scarer...








/jk

Sad thing though, the last thing i want it to do is leaking, i hope your hardware is still alive!


----------



## USFORCES

What ever you do let it dry for at least 24hrs!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USFORCES*


What ever you do let it dry for at least 24hrs!


this, dont fire it up before you are 100% sure its dry...xD

i like your avt xD


----------



## Ruckol1

You'll get your stuff replaced if you follow what they say and it was never modded. I would almost be excited if I were you lol


----------



## Tyberias

I just built my very first loop! Parts I used:

EK Supreme HK
EK Waterblocks EK-CoolStream RAD-XT 360
Swiftech MCP655-B
Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2
Scythe GentleTyphoon 120 mm Silent Case Fan - 57 CFM, 1850 RPM x 3
Feser Clear UV tubing (blue)

As you can see in the pic (and from my sig rig), there was no way I was fitting a 360 rad into my box...so I built the rad box you see in the pic. I'm going to skin it and install a fan grill on it as soon as I'm sure there aren't any leaks.


----------



## Bodycount

Thanks for the support guys









Besides being knocked down to a P4 2.2 laptop








I've calm down a little









The strange thing here is i run caseless and the position of the mounting was the natural position the hoses wanted to be in. Meaning there was no bending,twisting of any sort.

It started to make alot of noise like when air is passing through the system.
Later i was looking at the pump/block and noticed a clear line around the base/shroud i never noticed before and thought it was a glue or epoxy of some sort until i decided to try and stick my finger nail in there and well the rest is history. There was actually water built up in the shroud/cover







and the noise i heard was it leaking/spraying inside the cover







. I then disassembled the whole system to find that all my pci-e slot were saturated. I then noticed the trail of destuction from the H50 mounting bracket to the NB heatsink to dripping off the bottom of the motherboard.
















The H50 is near empty now


----------



## xlr8ter

So it was on and working when you discovered the leak?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlr8ter*


So it was on and working when you discovered the leak?



I'm not sure how long it was leaking but 
Surprisingly yes i was playing splinter cell conviction with evga precision running and my video cards heat was climbing and couldn't keep it in check even at 100% so i shut it down. It was then i noticed the residue on the motherboard that was not there before as i inspect every sq. inch of my boards during unboxing.

Traced it back to the block confirmed water leaking and instant shut down
I dont know how it made it that far. It explained the heat build up in the card and 4.5 FPS though


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Surprisingly yes i was playing splinter cell conviction with evga precision running and my video cards heat was climbing and couldn't keep it in check even at 100% so i shut it down. It was then i noticed the residue on the motherboard that was not there before as i inspect every sq. inch of my boards during unboxing.

Traced it back to the block confirmed water leaking and instant shut down
I dont know how it made it that far. It explained the heat build up in the card though


I've had that happen once, and on my 1TB HDD with ALL my stuff on it. Scariest time of my life. Unfortunately the thread in my tank was ruined and was leaking everywhere. My HDD was on the bottom of the case at the time as there was no-where else to put it and the water traveled down the outside of one of the tubes and dripped off onto the HDD. Luckily I was able to clean it all up and save the drive!

Best of luck to you buddy. It can quite honestly be a really scary experience.


----------



## WoofWoof

did your H50 make strange bzt bzt bzt noises?

If so please tell me.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WoofWoof*


did your H50 make strange bzt bzt bzt noises?

If so please tell me.


Yes it made noise. but it was slightly different than the noise you hear when air is passing through the line.


----------



## dham

I'm not sure whats going on here? The only problem I see is your running 8800GT in a classified board.
Jk man. Hope everything works out for you. Good luck!


----------



## hy897t

That sucks it happened man. The best of luck to you for getting the issue resolved.


----------



## rocstar96

This makes me get a megahalems instead of a Corsair H50


----------



## B!0HaZard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rocstar96*


This makes me get a megahalems instead of a Corsair H50










Lol @ this









On topic: Sorry for your loss!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

At least we know now that the H50 liquid is pretty well non-conductive. As long as you let your stuff dry out for 2-3 days your mobo should be fine.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated.

At least we know now that the H50 liquid is pretty well non-conductive. As long as you let your stuff dry out for 2-3 days your mobo should be fine.


When your video cards are sitting in a puddle of water inside the pci-e slots and the temps climb dramaticly and you get 4.5 FPS

I would have to dissagree


----------



## xlr8ter

If the liquid was a good conductor, the motherboard/GPU would have shorted out Immediately blown up the second the first drop of liquid hit it! Your extremely lucky everything was still working when you found it. I'm willing to bet that if you had let it simply dry, it would work perfectly.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

new water cooling layout, same hardware, just got a tech bench.


----------



## bundymania

Another Premiere - GTX 480 Block from XSPC


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
new water cooling layout, same hardware, just got a tech bench.

pic

ehh..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

88, what did you do with your black pearl?


----------



## Mr. Scary

@wtg 88, i love those bencher cases!
@bundy, holy cow man, that block is HUGE!!! is is really heavy?

M$


----------



## azcrazy

second rig in this thread


----------



## Mr. Scary

Wow AZ, that thing is RED! LOL!!!
btw, i'm out in surprise, where you at?









M$


----------



## azcrazy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr. Scary* 
Wow AZ, that thing is RED! LOL!!!
btw, i'm out in surprise, where you at?









M$

im in south phoenix 48st and Baseline


----------



## Mr. Scary

Cool! I'm up in surprise, Dysart&Waddell.
That's at least 3 of us OCN'ers in AZ,,,,behemoth777 is out in chandler!

M$


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr. Scary* 
@wtg 88, i love those bencher cases!
@bundy, holy cow man, that block is HUGE!!! is is really heavy?

M$

ItÂ´s not very heavy, the massive block from Danger Den weighs more


----------



## azcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr. Scary*


Cool! I'm up in surprise, Dysart&Waddell.
That's at least 3 of us OCN'ers in AZ,,,,behemoth777 is out in chandler!

M$


there is more than 3 gibsonnova is in Suncity, and there is a lot more we have a few from Tucson as well


----------



## Mr. Scary

sweet!
suncity is actually right next door to me!

M$


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## chozandrias76

Just got my first 5970 in my single CPU GPU loop. I am awaiting the SLI connector so I can connect my two cards through cooling. Temps are looking promising so far. GPU ~= CPU temps:


----------



## oliverw92

Hey not bad! What are the load temps though?


----------



## Peace11uehman

heres mine, its a work in progress..need some 45 degree fittings so i can add the mosfet block in.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Sold the Black Pearl, I was sick and tired of messing with stuff inside a case, especially water cooling. If I was air cooling I wouldn't mind, but I just hated water cooling in a case.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Sold the Black Pearl, I was sick and tired of messing with stuff inside a case, especially water cooling. If I was air cooling I wouldn't mind, but I just hated water cooling in a case.

I am inclined to agree with you







WC'ing can be a right pain in a pre-built case. Only way to make it functional inside a case in my opinion is to design the case yourself! What bench is that? Looks pretty decent!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I am inclined to agree with you







WC'ing can be a right pain in a pre-built case. Only way to make it functional inside a case in my opinion is to design the case yourself! What bench is that? Looks pretty decent!

well, if its builded its nice, but the first time you have to change something its a pain. I had watercooling, and now its just sitting around here, in its place im using the corsair h50, a lot better if you change hardware once a week...xD (or get a bench...







)


----------



## oliverw92

Where's your avatar bassie?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Where's your avatar bassie?

at a place where the sun doesnt shine








I didnt like my old one, and i dont have the system that was on the old one anymore. I dont have a new one, and i dont have an idea for a new one...xD

Do you have any idea?


----------



## Swiftes

88evga, nice bench









Well, I have come back to the dark side







Got a Supreme with a choice of tops coming, a RS240, and a MCP355 with Res top (Got the top, waiting on pump now) all with compression fittings, and I did it on a budget (~ Â£80)


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
at a place where the sun doesnt shine








I didnt like my old one, and i dont have the system that was on the old one anymore. I dont have a new one, and i dont have an idea for a new one...xD

Do you have any idea?









I do, but we can't put it up yet







Only 19 more days though!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
88evga, nice bench









Well, I have come back to the dark side







Got a Supreme with a choice of tops coming, a RS240, and a MCP355 with Res top (Got the top, waiting on pump now) all with compression fittings, and I did it on a budget (~ Â£80)









Good job, glad you went with the 355 over the gay thermaltake one you found.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I do, but we can't put it up yet







Only 19 more days though!

Wut? /me runs to the case and puts all the hardware in!
Lol, if you say it that way it sounds like its tomorrow...xD
but ye, i was thinking about that too...xD only a few days...


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I am inclined to agree with you







WC'ing can be a right pain in a pre-built case. Only way to make it functional inside a case in my opinion is to design the case yourself! What bench is that? Looks pretty decent!

Yes







IMO the Roketfish would be a better choice for a cheap water cool case. It is MASSIVE and there is nothing to sort of "divide" the case so you could take out the whole loop in 1 piece, whereas my Black Pearl had hoses running through holes to the bottom, so that meant I had to cut hoses off every time I wanted to move something.

Well at this moment, I just started a new job, so I am still sort of low on money, so I got the Sunbeam tech Bench for $83 USD














it does exactly what I want so I am happy. At least I didn't spend $250 on a Dimas tech bench or a Microcool Banchetto, $250 is a little hard to swallow when you just started a new job and still have a lot of things to pay off first


----------



## oliverw92

I just made my own tech bench, not designed for watercooling unfortunately. It's pretty amazing how cheap you can make one - cost me Â£20 in acrylic, thats it


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I'm not much of a "DIY" guy, sometimes I like taking the easy way out of certain things, or a lot of things actually


----------



## cRaZyEddie187

Watercooling setup complete... finally got my feet wet for the first time haha. Now i just need to stop being lazy and finish the 24pin sleeving and a few other cosmetic things.








[/URL][/IMG]







[/URL][/IMG]







[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## OutlawPiper

88EVGAFTW, what did you do with your sweet iandh res?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

A little update for me:
Switched my watercooling stuff for the corsair H50(a few weeks ago)



























The H50 has got an s-flex 1900rpm fan on it, using a fancontroller if i dont need the power








Dont look at the dust etc, just have the hardware in there for a few weeks


----------



## KShirza1

Fittings are in... and i must admit its looking impressive


----------



## mcpetrolhead

My homemade water cooling.


----------



## chozandrias76

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Hey not bad! What are the load temps though?


http://www.chozandrias.com/benchmark.html (images and results listed there)
I have just begun to overclock my CPU and I am going to try to overclock the first 5970. MSI Afterburner won't let me change values though (Error: Some of MSI Afterburner components are expired missing or corrupted!)


----------



## chozandrias76

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcpetrolhead*


My homemade water cooling.


































I have heard that elbows do terrible things to flow rate. I wouldn't recommend using them.


----------



## CrimsonMango

2x EK Supreme HF Copper/Plexi










EK S-Max NB Copper/Plexi










2x EK-VGA Supreme Copper/Plexi










Blastflow Tidal SB (Intel Skulltrail)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chozandrias76*


I have heard that elbows do terrible things to flow rate. I wouldn't recommend using them.


As long as you have a good high-powered pump you should be fine. I used quite a few of them in my previous builds and was never affected by it.


----------



## mcpetrolhead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chozandrias76* 
I have heard that elbows do terrible things to flow rate. I wouldn't recommend using them.

They might affect it a little bit but i don't mind... I will most likely be improving on it sometime soon with a homemade copper waterblock


----------



## oliverw92

Heh, i'm using about 10 in my upcoming build


----------



## bundymania

*Mega Wallpaper Gallery - 280 Pics*

Galerie: Bundymania Wallpaper - abload.de

Have fun !


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Capwn

I will be installing my block and second rad this evening.
Will post pics promptly








Bet youll never guess who is *STOKED!!!!*


----------



## 12Cores

My first build!

OCZ Hydroflow HF-MKI water block
OCZ Hydro Pulse 500 pump
Custom Reservoir
CM 690
e6500 @ 3.70ghz


----------



## cyclometric

I have two heatercores on my rig, one is a "single" sized Chevette, which I have attached with a Radbox to the rear of the machine, in two Performance Shrouds, with two Yate Loons high speed in push pull.

The other is a "double" Bonneville core, that has up til now, been seated on the top of my machine, about 1" above the mesh of the BigBoy fan (case is Antec 900). It is also seated in a Performance Shroud, with two Panaflo Ultra-Hi-Speed in a pull config. I just finished building a second shroud, after reading Martin's review on the Bonneville heatercores, and how performance only improves with the addition of more shrouded fans.

It took me a long time looking up and down the hardware aisle of True Value to find the hardware needed to mount the new configuration, which will mean I will have the shrouds on either side of the radiator, and 4 Panaflos, in push-pull. The following pictures show the transition, and I will update this post when I have actually installed the second shroud and fans, and can report on the temperature improvement.

Currently, I am running an overclock of 3600 (200x18) on my Phenom II 940, though at idle, the power state shifts to an underclock of just 800 (200x4) at .95 volts. Temps at full load are 45, at idle, 25. I don't know that I'll get a lot of improvement from adding the second shroud & fans on the Bonnie, but I do expect at least the temp to go down faster when reducing the load... lower load temp would be icing on the cake.

This first picture shows the current shrouded Bonneville atop the case:



This shows how the Bonneville is currently mounted atop the case. I found some nifty rubber "spacers" threaded at the bottom, with a round flared edge. they sit on top of the hex mesh, and through them I have 3" threaded rods which go up & through the fins of the radiator, held in place on top with lock washers & nuts. Inside the case is another set of lock washer/nut holding the radiator firmly in place:



This shows the second Performance Shroud I built, with the attached hardware I found which will allow me to insert the ends of the rubber "spacers" into the holes of the hex mesh. I don't plan on using anything on the underside of the mesh, since the weight of the heatercore and the tubing should be enough to keep it in place (plus, I don't move my machine around... if I did, I'd have to find a way to better secure the beast in place).



Finally, these are the hardware pieces I used to secure four of the fan holes, which will extend into the hex mesh and support the radiator. I just used regular fan screws on the other four holes:



Thanks for checking out my project!

UPDATE: Just finished bleeding & getting the loop back up with 2 Ultra-Hi-Flow Panaflo's on either side of the Bonneville, and have been running SMP Folding for about 20 minutes. Formerly, my max load temp was 45, currently it is hovering between 41 & 42. The two new fans are on at full speed and the beast sounds like, well, . . . a beast! So I'm going to probably rig some 7v regulators on the wires or make room on my fan controller. So far very pleased with the results... definitely made a difference!


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cRaZyEddie187* 









Whats that black stuff behind the motherboard? I like it! I might have to try it out.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vermillion* 
Whats that black stuff behind the motherboard? I like it! I might have to try it out.









could be paint but i see some aluminum so im going to have to say it is soundproofing foam


----------



## ny_driver

Hey guys, quick question. How do I know if there is air in my loop and how do I bleed it? I don't really think there is air in it, but I'd like to know just the same because I will be opening the loop to add dtek fusion gfx blocks very soon. Thanks for the info. --Dave


----------



## DJLiquid

I could be wrong (as I am very new to the whole WC thing) but I think you would be able to see the bubbles travel by, also the pump will make a racket if there is some air in it. Rocking the case side to side caused a few trapped bubbles to work loose in my loop. And I had to lean it a good 40 degrees to get the air to work itself out to the top of my res.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Capwn

My camera is foobar. It takes the crapiest pics now. Anyways heres my new gpu block and rad installed

















This is like my 4th post kevin


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## da tick 07

Here is something that you guys can look forward too... once I get some money for compression fittings that is -_-. This is a 3x120mm rad in a Lian-Li A05B Mini Tower. Custom carbon fiber grill+ carbon fiber motherboard tray. Pics aren't that great because I snapped them on my phone but I think you'll get the point. (I know the motherboard is ugly, i use to to test fitting in cases)
















The radiator is actually down farther than it should be. I have to cut the screws to length but first I have to see if I'm going to use silicon dampeners because this is going to be a "silent build" for college which is in another year!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R1P5AW

Lookin' good guys!


----------



## chozandrias76

Finally have my 5970's up and running (and cool!)


----------



## bundymania




----------



## strezz

thats a nice looking pump/reservoir combo Bundy..is it a new release by XSPC? it looks like the XSPC 750.


----------



## bundymania

yap, itÂ´s brandnew from XSPC for the Laing D5 / Swiftech 655 Pump, available in 3-4 Weeks in the US & GER


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

bundy, you need an avatar, make it a compression fitting or something, I very much dislike seeing frequent posters with no avatar.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## cRaZyEddie187

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vermillion*


Whats that black stuff behind the motherboard? I like it! I might have to try it out.










It's actually flat black vinyl used by sign shops... nifty huh?


----------



## nafljhy

very nice! glad to see XSPC make one for the D5. though, i gotta say, it took them long enough.


----------



## arbalest

First Water Cooling... Wish I had $$ for Compression Fittings


----------



## R1P5AW

^^

Looks awesome man!

Nice work


----------



## MedRed

My first watercooled rig


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
My first watercooled rig

[/IMG]

























+rep


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
My first watercooled rig










Cool looking system.








What are all the little spaghetti looking wires for?


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
What are all the little spaghetti looking wires for?

He individually sleeved his PSU. A real PITA but it looks awesome!


----------



## ny_driver

Interesting idea to make all the wires white.


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Interesting idea to make all the wires white.










Cable sleeving + heatshrink + your time = good looking wires


----------



## MedRed

thanks guys! I also made a quick youtube video. The camera couldn't capture the color and vibrancy very well... but it gives you a good idea.








YouTube- Ice Ice Baby! Watercooled Torture Rack i7


----------



## Extreme Newbie

2nd GTX295 arrived so my loop has changed once again.


----------



## VZif

I'll join:
THE LAST TWO have h50's The big one is a Swiftech setup w/ the dual 120 rad.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *VZif*


I'll join:


Well, how about some better pictures so we can actually see what we are looking at.....









EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Extreme Newbie*


2nd GTX295 arrived so my loop has changed once again.


And don't think I don't want to see some better pictures of your rig, too.







I like to see how people run their hoses and where they put their radiators and such. Thanks guys.


----------



## dennis_g

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennis_g*


i'm new here its my one

















the motherboard with EK-NB/SB 6 - Acetal block.. works perfect 25C

















pump with the res.



















Part lists:
Laining D5 Vario
Swiftech apogee GTZ
EK-NB/SB 6 - Acetal block
HWLabs xflow 360
TFC Xchanger 240
3x Slipstream 1900rpm
3x yateloon 1350rpm
TFC UV tube

Sorry about the cable arrangement I was very tired









hope you like that










my new update
















































thanks to wcdyes for his perfect dyes! only 5-6 drops!


----------



## ny_driver

Here is the new addition to my simple little loop. A D-tek FuZion GFX on my 4890. I have another for my other 4890 when xfx sends me my replacement.

GPU now idles right about ambient and gets all the way up to ~31c while racing(A/C on). It's pretty sweet, but I want full cover blocks to keep my memory that cool, too.


----------



## KShirza1

top mount fill ports and t3 for stealth


----------



## rakesh_sharma23

Small Update.
I was told by many on different forums that my Watercooling does not contras with the whole transparent cabinet. So I decided to do something ,,, well hope you like my new CPU block.

This is the pic of old CPU block.









This time I made it with 2mm thick copper base with 1mm deep round channel for some water resistance, top with 10mm thick acrylic sheet and added two UV LEDs.

As per working or so called temperature performance it is equal to my old block. Not even a single degree of difference . But looks now cool&#8230;, after all watercooling is also somewhat show off.


















































Hope you all like the new update..
Thanking
Rakesh Sharma


----------



## Jamanious

Hey, sign me up.

I just set up my first ever water cooling loop. It was a "okay" experience though I'm loving the temp drop from my cpu and gtx470.

Also don't worry about those air bubbles, that was just me leak testing with a different psu. It works great


----------



## Bodycount

@Jamanious

*I haven't takin the plunge into full watercooling yet but will it be better to flip your rad around and drill two holes in your case to lose 6-12 inches of tubing and save some space in the rear of your case?*

Looks great buddy









Body


----------



## Jamanious

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
@Jamanious

*I haven't takin the plunge into full watercooling yet but will it be better to flip your rad around and drill two holes in your case to lose 6-12 inches of tubing and save some space in the rear of your case?*

Looks great buddy








Body

Believe me I wanted that rad in there, It was a misscalculation on my part, originally I had planed for the rad to be inside but it's way to thick, If I had gone for a 120mm rad It would have panned out better, but me in my inexperience chose the larger 140mm rad without consulting OCN believing it would fit, reason being the fan that fits there is a 140mm. however the distance between the side of the case and motherboard panel(? not sure thats the right term) is ever so slightly smaller than the rad.

If I had the funds I would put it right, well maybe, I'm just stoked it all works.

Also the rad's barbs go out way to far, I'm not sure there would have been a way for me to right it without getting some 90 degree fittings.

Edit: also, I'm not one for modding (little mechanical experience/if it works fine I'm happy)


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jamanious*


Believe me I wanted that rad in there, It was a misscalculation on my part, originally I had planed for the rad to be inside but it's way to thick, If I had gone for a 120mm rad It would have panned out better, but me in my inexperience chose the larger 140mm rad without consulting OCN believing it would fit, reason being the fan that fits there is a 140mm. however the distance between the side of the case and motherboard panel(? not sure thats the right term) is ever so slightly smaller than the rad.

If I had the funds I would put it right, well maybe, I'm just stoked it all works.

Also the rad's barbs go out way to far, I'm not sure there would have been a way for me to right it without getting some 90 degree fittings.

Edit: also, I'm not one for modding (little mechanical experience/if it works fine I'm happy)


what about this? sorry its crude but using a comp fitting like circled on your vid card









*Just a inexperienced suggestion* I'm learning


----------



## ny_driver

How come I'm the only one that thought to put the radiator in un-used space where it would not be crowding anything.









Here are a couple pictures because I am quite proud of my ingenuity.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
How come I'm the only one that thought to put the radiator in un-used space where it would not be crowding anything.









Here are a couple pictures because I am quite proud of my ingenuity.









while it is a good soultion, you are not the first to do that. 

there are several other builds in this thread that have similar rad mounting solutions. ;-)


----------



## ny_driver

yeah, I guess I should have looked through the other 2300+ posts before I said that. I didn't really think I was the first, but I am surprised that I have never seen another like it. Off to look for one now.


----------



## oliverw92

And also it now means you can't take the other side panel off


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
And also it now means you can't take the other side panel off

This would be reason enough for me not to put a rad there.


----------



## MedRed

I cringe everytime i see these dye...


----------



## oliverw92

There is nothing wrong with pre-mixed coolant. It only clogs up in certain situations - alot of the time with nickel plating or certain types of tubing.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
And also it now means you can't take the other side panel off


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lost-boi* 
This would be reason enough for me not to put a rad there.

Why would I ever need or want to remove that side cover unless I was doing something with the radiator? If you look at the picture with the 2 hoses sticking out of the side, you would see that the side cover limits my access to absolutely nothing.


----------



## oliverw92

Cable management, change CPU cooler, access to drive bay screws etc.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Cable management, change CPU cooler, access to drive bay screws etc.

look at the picture......none of those apply in my case.


----------



## Jamanious

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
what about this? sorry its crude but using a comp fitting like circled on your vid card

*Just a inexperienced suggestion* I'm learning

Ah sorry, i know what your talking about now, when you said flip originally i thought you meant placing the rad inside, but yeah your right, If i drilled holes in the slots above the vga's I could lose alot of tubing.

also that aint a comp fitting, it's a 45degreee adjustment fitting, It just makes tubing alot easier in some places.

It probably would look alot cleaner flipping it and using 180degree/90degree fittings, well except my drilling maybe, and don't worry about suggesting things to someone as inexperienced, we all benefit from it


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
nice what ram is that? and is that the dfi x48 t2rs ?


ItÂ´s a DFI DK X38 and the Ram is from Geil


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
There is nothing wrong with pre-mixed coolant. It only clogs up in certain situations - alot of the time with nickel plating or certain types of tubing.

This is true. It will only clog up if the waterblocks used have small channels in them and on the odd occasion it might stain some tubing. Where I live, I have to use it if I want a coloured loop as we can't get green tubing here.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
look at the picture......none of those apply in my case.









Ahh. Thats an odd case to have access to nothing on the backside. You would have to remove the whole mobo just to get to a backplate on the CPU.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lost-boi* 
Ahh. Thats an odd case to have access to nothing on the backside. You would have to remove the whole mobo just to get to a backplate on the CPU.

Yeah, you gotta take the mobo out to change the back-plate. Big deal, what's it take about 15 minutes. It is kind of a weird case, though...it's like 10-15 years old.
I once took a case outside and used a blowtorch to cut a hole through the mobo tray so I had access to the back-plate....pointless waste of time that was.


----------



## z0mi3ie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
My first watercooled rig










Nice torture rack. I would have run the loop rad - cpu - rad - gpu. The torture racks are great cause you have the room for it


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Yeah, you gotta take the mobo out to change the back-plate. Big deal, what's it take about 15 minutes. It is kind of a weird case, though...it's like 10-15 years old.
I once took a case outside and used a blowtorch to cut a hole through the mobo tray so I had access to the back-plate....pointless waste of time that was.

My tsunami doesn't have a backplate hole and it's a nuisance. I have to take out both my HDD's to get the board out so I can change the cpu cooler. Having a backplate hole would turn a 15-20min job into a 2 min job. Idk if you have to remove all your gear to take the mobo out too, but for me it's a big deal as it takes far longer than it could, just because of the lack of a simple hole.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *z0mi3ie* 
Nice torture rack. I would have run the loop rad - cpu - rad - gpu. The torture racks are great cause you have the room for it










Thanks! I had aesthetics in mind when I set up my loop. I wasn't going for an extreme overclock, just wanting to keep the cpu/gpu cool.


----------



## z0mi3ie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
Thanks! I had aesthetics in mind when I set up my loop. I wasn't going for an extreme overclock, just wanting to keep the cpu/gpu cool.

I'm putting together a Torture Rack with 2 GTX 360s mounted vertically like I've seen a few done. Just cooling a I7 and 5970, not the board, so it may have been a little much. A bit bummed I'm not going to be using the 240 tube holes... oh well. I'm going to be going for a UV Blue/Orange set up. It'll be really blue/orange when I sleeve the PSU cables after I get it up and running. I dig the blue/white. I like anything that doesn't have green in it XD.

Good to see another aesthetics guy around. There isn't enough of em


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *z0mi3ie* 
I'm putting together a Torture Rack with 2 GTX 360s mounted vertically like I've seen a few done. Just cooling a I7 and 5970, not the board, so it may have been a little much. A bit bummed I'm not going to be using the 240 tube holes... oh well. I'm going to be going for a UV Blue/Orange set up. It'll be really blue/orange when I sleeve the PSU cables after I get it up and running. I dig the blue/white. I like anything that doesn't have green in it XD.

Good to see another aesthetics guy around. There isn't enough of em









I'm an aesthetics girl







But you'd hate my rig. It's black, green and chrome


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *z0mi3ie* 
I'm putting together a Torture Rack with 2 GTX 360s mounted vertically like I've seen a few done. Just cooling a I7 and 5970, not the board, so it may have been a little much. A bit bummed I'm not going to be using the 240 tube holes... oh well. I'm going to be going for a UV Blue/Orange set up. It'll be really blue/orange when I sleeve the PSU cables after I get it up and running. I dig the blue/white. I like anything that doesn't have green in it XD.

Good to see another aesthetics guy around. There isn't enough of em









awesome, can't wait to see the worklog.


----------



## ny_driver

My pump seems to be running, but not moving any water....my radiator is getting hot and everything else, too. Any suggestions besides get a new one? It's a brand new pump. Thanks.


----------



## mitchbowman

how do you know that it's not moving water
the rad wouldn't be getting hot if it wasn't flowing


----------



## ny_driver

I can see in the res that it's moving a little water, but for some reason the water got hot.....the cpu got up to like 57c. And the only thing that can malfunction is the pump. I came here asking for suggestions.

EDIT: I think it seems to be working and cooling off now, but slowly. I turned the a/c on, but it was far from hot in here before.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
My first watercooled rig










Loving this! I'm a huge sucker for white tubing and sleeving.

Here's mine.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I can see in the res that it's moving a little water, but for some reason the water got hot.....the cpu got up to like 57c. And the only thing that can malfunction is the pump. I came here asking for suggestions.

EDIT: I think it seems to be working and cooling off now, but slowly. I turned the a/c on, but it was far from hot in here before.

Opteron chips are renowned for being hot running. I had a 165 before my Q9400. Are you cooling your GPU in the same loop and also what rad are you using?


----------



## ny_driver

yes I'm cooling the cpu and gpu. It was working great until all of a sudden, good thing I constantly monitor everything. Working fine now, too. This Opteron doesn't run very hot even @ 1.6v. I'm pretty sure the pump was not moving any water. My cpu is only about 8 inches from the radiator, and it was running @ roughly 100% due to antivirus and I was racing, but that is not cause enough for 57c. I've had a/c blowing on the rad all afternoon....anyways I don't think it even hit 50c running prime. All I know for sure is it's working now. Whew!!!!

EDIT: using the 2x120mm rad that comes with the Ultima Xt kit.

Temps are back to normal idle....CPU: 26c/20c and GPU: 22c


----------



## bobfig

just a little update on mine since its been a while. got new 38mm panaflows on my rad and (for those that can remember) took off my apple logo from my window.
(i know the dark pics look red but its really orange)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
yes I'm cooling the cpu and gpu. It was working great until all of a sudden, good thing I constantly monitor everything. Working fine now, too. This Opteron doesn't run very hot even @ 1.6v. I'm pretty sure the pump was not moving any water. My cpu is only about 8 inches from the radiator, and it was running @ roughly 100% due to antivirus and I was racing, but that is not cause enough for 57c. I've had a/c blowing on the rad all afternoon....anyways I don't think it even hit 50c running prime. All I know for sure is it's working now. Whew!!!!

EDIT: using the 2x120mm rad that comes with the Ultima Xt kit.

Temps are back to normal idle....CPU: 26c/20c and GPU: 22c

That's good







Your pump may be faulty so definitely keep checking on it. My last pump would occasionally not start up and I wouldn't even notice until my system crashed. If it is a brand new pump and it does keep 'failing', it may be a good idea to either open it up and check it out, or rma it if possible. Good luck!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## xxlawman87xx

what do you guys think?


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xxlawman87xx* 
what do you guys think?

Hardware wise, it's very impressive.

Presentation needs a bit of work. Have you considered doing some wire tucking?


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Oh sorry, thats the wrong pic. I have since done that. I am not currently at my house. I will repost tomorrow.


----------



## KShirza1

fittings, but i was sent the wrong tubing. I ordered black... waiting again








caint wait to see it all together


----------



## WTHbot

Very nice, and clean looking too.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kizzam

Extreme


----------



## bobfig

^^^^ all i gata say is WOW. 3 420 rads for ai7 and a gtx 280?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
^^^^ all i gata say is WOW. 3 420 rads for ai7 and a gtx 280?

the video card is not even in the loop.


----------



## kizzam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

the video card is not even in the loop.


It will be soon


----------



## Lost-boi

Even then thats quite a bit of rad...


----------



## grazz1984

Hiya guys im planning a watercooling build in a silverstone fortress ft01 case but i have abit of a issue because there is no way of fitting a 240mm rad inside, i dont want to mount any sort of rad externally as i have kids i came up with the idea of two 120mm rads one mounted on back and one bolted to hdd rack but i would preffer just one 240mm rad do you guys have any idea of how i can mod my case to fit one or do you kno of anyone that has modded one of these cases? i really want to watercool and dont want to get rid of this case as i think its pretty nice looking its just the issue of rad mount any ideas and help would be exellent!

Thanks


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kizzam* 
Extreme










you do realise, you probably/most likely wouldn't notice/see any temperature difference from having just one?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grazz1984* 
Hiya guys im planning a watercooling build in a silverstone fortress ft01 case but i have abit of a issue because there is no way of fitting a 240mm rad inside, i dont want to mount any sort of rad externally as i have kids i came up with the idea of two 120mm rads one mounted on back and one bolted to hdd rack but i would preffer just one 240mm rad do you guys have any idea of how i can mod my case to fit one or do you kno of anyone that has modded one of these cases? i really want to watercool and dont want to get rid of this case as i think its pretty nice looking its just the issue of rad mount any ideas and help would be exellent!

Thanks

I would try to get it on top of that case. Cut a hole in the top, put the rad above the top, and the fans on the other side of the top, otherwise your fans might hit your mobo. Make sure you put some rad grills on top of you rad, so the kids dont hurt it








Something like this


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
I would try to get it on top of that case. Cut a hole in the top, put the rad above the top, and the fans on the other side of the top, otherwise your fans might hit your mobo. Make sure you put some rad grills on top of you rad, so the kids dont hurt it








Something like this

i want to try keep rad inside the case if i can i have found a dual 180mm rad with fans?


----------



## cchoy87

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
you do realise, you probably/most likely wouldn't notice/see any temperature difference from having just one?

Don't hate, appreciate. Very over the top set up. I'm painting my case this weekend! Very excited


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grazz1984* 
i want to try keep rad inside the case if i can i have found a dual 180mm rad with fans?

well, fitting the rad+fans inside will be hard. Maybe its possible but you'll have to measure it yourselve


----------



## grazz1984

lol yea i kno really stressing me out now of thinkin of ideas, does the case have enough clearance from the ground to mount a 240 on bottom?


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kizzam* 
Extreme




























what the logic here?

money could have been better spent on more video power or video cooling


----------



## kizzam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
you do realise, you probably/most likely wouldn't notice/see any temperature difference from having just one?


Two radiators for CPU and chipset and the third is for the GTX 480 or GTX 485.For now do all three for the CPU and chipset.In the near future will be two loops.For now there is no large difference in temperatures between two and three radiators only two degrees.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys, I have my old H50 and some other stuff for sale if anyone is interested:

http://www.overclock.net/cooling-pro...d-pwm-fan.html


----------



## Almogavar

Mine seems to be in a continual state of flux, but here are a few pics. Pump, large reservoir, radiators w/ fans are in the basement with tubing routed from rig through PVC lined hole in the floor. Inflow to the CPU is insulation wrapped in the optimistic hope of someday getting below ambient.























































Swiftech MCP655 x2 (currently out of service)
Swiftech Apogee GTZ i7 CPU waterblock
EK-FC 285 GTX waterblock
EK-FC 480 GTX waterblock
Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 Radiator
Black Ice GTX Xtreme 480 Radiator
XSPC Passive 500mm Reservoir
Lowes 5 gal bucket reservoir
Feser / Noiseblocker 120mm x 55mm Fans
Iwaki WMD-20RLZT Pump
Koolance Flow meter
King Flow meter
Fesser SLI Compression Fittings

Next change will be seperate loops for CPU and GPUs and possibly WCing the Mobo.

Special thanks to my bud RP - who has made this a real collaborative effort.


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Hello all, been a while since ive been here. I got a question for you.

Anyone seen any good, preferably full cover, blocks for a EVGA P55 board, specifically for a E655. Great board, just don't dig passive cooling where I live.....WAY too friggin hot in summer, especially when im stuck with some window AC units.


----------



## NoGuru

I just finished my first loop.

XSPC XR360 RAD
Yate Loon med fans
Lamptron FC-5 controller
Enzotech CPU
EK North Bridge
Koolance full block GPU
Swifttec 655 vario pump
Swifttec Micro res
Fesser tubing
Koolance clamps
Koolance Rad cage.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

Thanks for all your work! Great thread, +rep


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoGuru* 
Thanks for all your work! Great thread, +rep

thanks man, it is worth it for what i get from this community.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc* 
Hello all, been a while since ive been here. I got a question for you.

Anyone seen any good, preferably full cover, blocks for a EVGA P55 board, specifically for a E655. Great board, just don't dig passive cooling where I live.....WAY too friggin hot in summer, especially when im stuck with some window AC units.

I haven't seen anything out for it yet. Could stand a mosfet cooler, that's for sure.


----------



## KShirza1

T3 sucks... im replacing it

Bring on the i told you so's... i gave them a shot for a unique product, and i hope xspc doesn't make the same mistake.

i need to get this and its set to release on the 28th


----------



## bundymania

guess where it fits


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KShirza1* 
T3 sucks... im replacing it

Bring on the i told you so's... i gave them a shot for a unique product, and i hope xspc doesn't make the same mistake.


what was wrong with your t3?


----------



## oliverw92

The T3's had some serious faults - namely cracking and leaking under normal use. Even the new versions they have released seem to be failing too.


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
The T3's had some serious faults - namely cracking and leaking under normal use. Even the new versions they have released seem to be failing too.

exactly... very disappointing.

i know that xspc doesnt use mold and instead glue everything together, so hopefully thats a good thing.


----------



## xDelx

My Modest WC rig (especially compared to some of these other rigs!!!)

EK Supreme HF
BlackICE Extreme III
DD-Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir
DD-CPX-Pro 12V Pump
1/2" HF all round







[/URL]


----------



## NoGuru

Nice setup. Are you getting vibration from your pump if the foam is not there?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Rico sent me some pics today, which i would like to share with you:


----------



## ny_driver

That is one sweet looking cooler! Your pictures are very much appreciated.

On a side note, now, which WAS the reason I stopped in. Today I switched up the fan configuration on my radiator and the temps dropped by a couple degrees.

I've known they would be better the other way for a couple weeks now, but have been too lazy to switch them and I was too stupid to switch them to start with.

The first picture is the factory installed fans which blow through the radiator away from the computer. Works good I guess, but I have an air conditioner ~3 feet away blowing directly on the radiator.

The second picture is the fans installed my way which is the fans blowing through the radiator towards the computer.

Not only did the temperatures drop, now I can simply unscrew the fans and run the vacuum behind them where before it was impossible. After taking the fans off after approximately 1 month I can see that it needs doing once a month.

Not very exciting, but it definitely made a difference with that a/c right there, and now I can clean much easier.


----------



## luke997




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Got my mobo block today














better late than never










































Had to use a 45Âº coming into the video card.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

88, why didn't you put the pulsing LEDs in the red bridge? 

those blocks are so sexy, I love mine.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

88, why didn't you put the pulsing LEDs in the red bridge? 

those blocks are so sexy, I love mine.

I dont know how. and where from? from the EVGA logo on the stock cooler?


----------



## xDelx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoGuru* 
Nice setup. Are you getting vibration from your pump if the foam is not there?

Somehow when building my rig I lost the rubber mat and mounting bracket, so yeah, by itself it was rattling a fair bit. Going to get some nice black foam and cut it to fit properly... at some stage...


----------



## _REAPER_




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
I dont know how. and where from? from the EVGA logo on the stock cooler?

yea, pull the ones from the stock cooler out and they fit right in the holes in the side of the bridge. you can even run the cable under the block if you are careful.


----------



## ny_driver

I had to add some windows(holes at this point), otherwise I couldn't bare to put the side cover back on. Looks better than no side cover at all and it's good natural ventilation, too.









I drew it out freehand and cut it with a jigsaw then beveled the edges with a razor blade. The fan was there before I thought up the windows otherwise it wouldn't be, but it turns out it is blowing nicely on my NB heatsink so I could get rid of the 80mm fan I was using for that.


----------



## grazz1984

is two 120mm rads in a loop the same as having one 240mm rad?


----------



## Teh Noob Slayer

Built and tested today.

Soundproofed with go faster stripe ATCS '1000' ( Cosmos 1000 cross over)

1st loop (top): Single bay reservoir - mcp 350 pump -RX 360 XSPC rad with 120mm GTs @ 1450 rpm - EK Single pcb for GTX 295

2nd loop (bottom) Single bay reservoir - mcp 355 pump -RX 240 rad with 120 mm GTs @ 1450 rpm - EK HF nickel CPU block


----------



## Teh Noob Slayer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grazz1984*


is two 120mm rads in a loop the same as having one 240mm rad?


Short answer: Yes its equivalent

Long Answer : although there are a few more variables to consider, eg two rads = more restriction in loop, more tubing. Location of the rad(s) eg in my setup a 240 rad at bottom generally means cooler temps in loop as cool air goes into rad while if you had on rad at the bottom and one on the back of the case you will have warmer air going into 2nd radiator = warmer loop temps.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Teh Noob Slayer*


Short answer: Yes its equivalent

Long Answer : although there are a few more variables to consider, eg two rads = more restriction in loop, more tubing. Location of the rad(s) eg in my setup a 240 rad at bottom generally means cooler temps in loop as cool air goes into rad while if you had on rad at the bottom and one on the back of the case you will have warmer air going into 2nd radiator = warmer loop temps.


hmm so in the long run it wouldnt be much diffrent than air cooling? i have a silverstone ft01 and there is two places if found onit i can mod to fit 240mm rads there is the bottom if i take the bottom hdd rack out but the case has less that 1cm clearance from ground and there is the top but that will mean loosing the usb/audio panel and prob a drive bay, were would you say was the best place?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Teh Noob Slayer

Do you use the usb front panel/ drive bay or the 2nd HDD rack?

Personally I think If I was putting one rad in a system I would put it up the top so all hot air is vented out of case rather than being drawn into the case from a rad at the bottom.

But I know the FT01 case has really good airflow because it has a 2 x huge front and top fans blowing air into the case. On an I5 I had I noticed the internal and external temps of the case was very similar because of this so I think a bottom mounted radiator would not affect internal temps too much.

[Then again as you said, watercooling in the case might be similar to air cooling because of the high airflow. What kind of system are you going to watercool and are you going to do any overclocking?]


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Teh Noob Slayer*


Do you use the usb front panel/ drive bay or the 2nd HDD rack?

Personally I think If I was putting one rad in a system I would put it up the top so all hot air is vented out of case rather than being drawn into the case from a rad at the bottom.

But I know the FT01 case has really good airflow because it has a 2 x huge front and top fans blowing air into the case. On an I5 I had I noticed the internal and external temps of the case was very similar because of this so I think a bottom mounted radiator would not affect internal temps too much.

[Then again as you said, watercooling in the case might be similar to air cooling because of the high airflow. What kind of system are you going to watercool and are you going to do any overclocking?]



Yea i will be overclocking but the main reason im watercooling is because ive never tried it before ive been building air cooled pc's for about 5yrs now, ive been wanting to watercool for about a year now but never had the bottle to do it just incase i mess up but ive been doing alot of studying and talking to alot of people and im feeling brave enough now lol and im pretty excited about it







but fingers crossed it will all go to plan ill mod my case abit and mount me rad and just take me time but ill be posting pics as the build goes on..


----------



## Teh Noob Slayer

It will be fun!

My 2 cents worth: just make sure before you start pouring water into the system make sure the barbs/ hoses/ clips etc are all tightened.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Teh Noob Slayer*


It will be fun!

My 2 cents worth: just make sure before you start pouring water into the system make sure the barbs/ hoses/ clips etc are all tightened.


yea ill be running the loop before any power goes into my boards for a couple of hours anyway just to make sure i dont get any leaks


----------



## X3NIA

Can I Join?









I've posted my pic quite a bit but here it is anyways... One of the back and one of when I started building my PC (Yes, HAF 932 was my first case) and the last 3 are it currently.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grazz1984* 
hmm so in the long run it wouldnt be much diffrent than air cooling? i have a silverstone ft01 and there is two places if found onit i can mod to fit 240mm rads there is the bottom if i take the bottom hdd rack out but the case has less that 1cm clearance from ground and there is the top but that will mean loosing the usb/audio panel and prob a drive bay, were would you say was the best place?

I just did my first w/c setup so I thought I'd show you a couple pictures. I'm sure your computer will be facing you so you can see how cool it looks through the window. I know mine is.

Anyways I put my radiator on the back side. No modding besides a few holes and it kept my loop short. I set the computer right in front of my a/c.

Water cooling is easy, you should have no problems.

EDIT: that is my power switch


----------



## ChosenLord

Updated rig


----------



## NoGuru

Beautiful.


----------



## Midnightorion

Old Setup, will post new Pics of current setup when Asus decides to send me an actual good working board.


----------



## R00ST3R

Small update on the TJ09 build. Added a new GPU and blocked it up.
















Soon going to be installing a BI SR1 360mm rad, black 7/16's Primochill tubing, and compression fittings all around.


----------



## pgmoney

rebuilt this rig added ek blocks to sli 470's new rad, shrouds,fans, moved tubbing around and res to fillport on haf 932
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9043543

so here is a few pics to update it better ones in the furture but the ones i took work for now, i hope.
flow = res>pump>rad>rad>cpu>vreg>nb/sb>gpu>gpu>res





































yes this is just a update to the link in the begining of post.
for those curios or not in the know about a single loop cooling gpu's here is my sli 470's furmark


----------



## NoGuru

Your just missing active cooling on the mem








Nice rig!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Mr. Scary

Now that's friggin' sexy!!!!!
congratz! U DA MAN, Bundy!
did you need to put the blue led in there?

M$


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*






























wow more pics pls


----------



## bundymania

the duo 3mm led came with the block, just put it in the holes and there ya go...nice lookinÂ´, eh ?







connected to the fan header.










(DonÂ´t worry...2 drops of ArctiClean makes the block looks like this







)


----------



## KShirza1

So i setup an RMA via primochill for my t3, and he returned my money and said to throw it in the garbage... lol

the new primochill bay res will be avail in 3 weeks... i hope its better than this. still using a mold.


----------



## oliverw92

Yeah Primochill has just given up on it lol. As long as you can verify you own it, they just refund you.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## KShirza1

Update with floating res

New res looks great and everything fits much better, but i had to move the rad back 1.4"





















Floating res











exhaust fan is now a intake fan


----------



## oliverw92

That's got to be the tidiest wc'ing loop i have ever seen! Have a rep!


----------



## ny_driver

Nice short loop man! The black sleeving looks great, too.


----------



## KShirza1

Thanks guys

its exciting to see what saw in my head come to reality

the point was to as stealth as possible, and i wanted to sleeve black tubes to the cpu. It looked so good imo i decided to keep it.


----------



## merple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*












Is that 480 by itself on a MORA? What are the temps like?


----------



## Willhemmens

So I've got my hands on a Black ice SR1 360 and thought I'd post some newer pictures of the build.

So here they are, I'm using my very old Olympus for these few as my Lumix was flat.


















































Camera does the job, might start using her abit more often.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
So I've got my hands on a Black ice SR1 360 and thought I'd post some newer pictures of the build.

So here they are, I'm using my very old Olympus for these few as my Lumix was flat.
*snip*

Camera does the job, might start using her abit more often.

very nice love the reinforced pvc tubing







one of the best looking tubing design out there IMO


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
So I've got my hands on a Black ice SR1 360 and thought I'd post some newer pictures of the build.

So here they are, I'm using my very old Olympus for these few as my Lumix was flat.









Camera does the job, might start using her abit more often.

. . . . your setup is AWESOME ! !







question i have of concern is: What size is your tubing?? & What kind/type
is that of with the "braid_looking" tubing/covering's?? . . . again, NICE Rigg of your's there, Willhemmens








{ gotta admitt, IT look's totally "Over"_ Sex'd compared to your previous H50-modd'd setup . . .







}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
very nice love the reinforced pvc tubing







one of the best looking tubing design out there IMO

Thanks, I've been using 1/2" Clear Masterkleer tubign for a few months and it got mikly in colour fairly quick and kinked quite bad too. As I needed some new tubing I went to a local hardware shop and picked this stuff up. Its great really, I didnt buy it for the looks, more functionality. But now I've got used to it, I like the look.







Also, it fits over 1/2" barbs very well, perfect tightness I'd say. No cable tie's needed but just as a extra safety thing I put some on. Also because its reinforced, theres no kinks at all, lots of nice bends.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Thanks, I've been using 1/2" Clear Masterkleer tubign for a few months and it got mikly in colour fairly quick and kinked quite bad too. As I needed some new tubing I went to a local hardware shop and picked this stuff up. Its great really, I didnt buy it for the looks, more functionality. But now I've got used to it, I like the look.







Also, it fits over 1/2" barbs very well, perfect tightness I'd say. No cable tie's needed but just as a extra safety thing I put some on. Also because its reinforced, theres no kinks at all, lots of nice bends.


...... & you are using just distill'd water ONLY Or with add'd Dye of ??? color, too ? ? ? .....any kind of Biocide, even ? ?

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
. . . . your setup is AWESOME ! !







question i have of concern is: What size is your tubing?? & What kind/type
is that of with the "braid_looking" tubing/covering's?? . . . again, NICE Rigg of your's there, Willhemmens








{ gotta admitt, IT look's totally "Over"_ Sex'd compared to your previous H50-modd'd setup . . .








}

mr-Charles .









.

Haha, thanks.

The tubing is 1/2" and the walls are really thick. Its basically what you would use on normal everyday stuff like in diesel pumps. I'm sure you could find it online but I havent seen it anywhere. I bought it at my local harware shop. The best thing about the tubing is the fact it doesnt kink, atleast not easily at all, you have to put alot of force into it.

The H50 Mod was great but as you would agree, this is a little bit different. Its great to work with









Thanks again!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
...... & you are using just distill'd water ONLY Or with add'd Dye of ??? color, too ? ? ? .....any kind of Biocide, even ? ?

mr-Charles .









.

Currently I'm using tap water with some Comma antifreeze in it which is Pure Ethylene Glycol, which is what the H50 uses. This stuff has a slightly blue colour too it with sort of adds too it. I'm planning on going with Distilled water and a Biocide soon, once I have money to spend on things like that. My next upgrades will be a New CPU block and GPU blocks.


----------



## mr-Charles

... just one more question: about's the MCP355 pump, would you know if there is any
particular way you are Suppose to mount this?? [ aka= like, Can you mount this sideway's?
...against the HHD case...yes/no?? OR, does IT half to be mount'd FLAT down??? ]

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
... just one more question: about's the MCP355 pump, would you know if there is any
particular way you are Suppose to mount this??

It can be mounted any which direction except for upside down.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
... just one more question: about's the MCP355 pump, would you know if there is any
particular way you are Suppose to mount this?? [ aka= like, Can you mount this sideway's?
...against the HHD case...yes/no?? OR, does IT half to be mount'd FLAT down??? ]

mr-Charles .









.

Ask as many questions as you like, I enjoy helping and informing others.

On to the pump, as far as I know it can be mounted anyway easiest for you, except for upside down, against the HHD case should be fine.

Mine is held on with velcro as its removed from time to time and its the easiest way. I'd advice you too mount it with either Velcro or some other sort of vibration dampening material.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
It can be mounted any which direction except for upside down.


. . . .COOOOL ! ! thank's for that confirmation of Information on the MCP355 pump, SimpleTech . . .








...as well as you too, Willhemmems (GREAT Rigg & Help of Info); +reps to ya both, again . . thnx . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## KShirza1

well at the moment im running it at 4.2 and the ram at 1564 (or something i forget without looking at the bios.)

bclk frequency 156

cpu v 1.425

dram v 1.65681

qpi v1.48125

cpu temp 39c idle and 74c load

i used arctic silver 5 even though i wanted to try mx-2 and i had the opertunity to use ICdiamond

fans set to 1100rpm

im very happy right now with the results

photos of the rig finnished very soon


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 



























wow thats hot


----------



## ny_driver

yeah the lights really make it look awesome.


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## Mr. Scary

Hey, Kshirza,,,
That is one [email protected]$$, CLEAN, & SEXY Lookin' install/rig!
nice friggin' job, bro!!!

M$

ever thought about some UV action? not that you need it at all, just curious.









I guess next up is some gpu coolin', huh? 

congratz!

g


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr. Scary*


Hey, Kshirza,,,
That is one [email protected]$$, CLEAN, & SEXY Lookin' install/rig!
nice friggin' job, bro!!!

M$

ever thought about some UV action? not that you need it at all, just curious.









I guess next up is some gpu coolin', huh? 

congratz!

g


Thanks im really happy about the way it turned out. Mainly im happy about ditching the t3

when i upgrade my cards that will def be the topic. Im thinking of cutting my hdd cage in half to lay a 240 on the bottom, but whatever it is has to be stealth and clean. honeslty this case makes it easy...best case made imo


----------



## Mr. Scary

agreed, that case is mega yummy!
keep us posted, and, the pics comin'!










M$


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated with new award winner. ;-)


----------



## bundymania

A rare block with an exotic look, but i like it



























...for the 5850 card


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R00ST3R

Last weekend I replaced the tubing with black Primochill 7/16's tubing and comp fittings.










Added the BI SR1 360 rad.










And made a funky drain plug.










It was good times


----------



## Luass Hole

My humble H50 Modification. Definitely going to go for a full loop to cool down that hot 5870.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## NoGuru

Nice rigs guys!

And as always +rep to kevingreenbmx for so a great job of updated, man that's a lot of work.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


Nice rigs guys!

And as always +rep to kevingreenbmx for so a great job of updated, man that's a lot of work.


haha, thanks man. 

I think something like 1/5 of my reps are from this thread...


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated with new award winner. ;-)


lol i just noticed that, thank you!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KShirza1*


lol i just noticed that, thank you!


np bro, you earned it. ;-)


----------



## oliverw92

I agree, it's a sweet setup


----------



## driftingforlife

this is my first loop is finished a week ago. i need some advice, i am usin zlman g200 coolant but as you can see. it isn't blue. i would like some blue coolant the you can really see, what would you recommend. thanks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Vagpounderly

mcp 350 pump is installed on bottom of swift tech 320 rad. Loop goes cpu > north bridge - south bridge > voltage regulator > 120 rad > 480 gtx 1 > 480 gtx 2 > 320 rad... koolance cpu 360 block for cpu, EK block for NB-SB and voltage reg, and EK blocks for 2x 480 gtx...


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Not great...but not too bad. There is a 240mm rad in front that ya cant see.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


I agree, it's a sweet setup


Thats fantastic compliment coming from such a artist.

help me with a theme!

i know my 840 is begging for a creative touch right now


----------



## pgmoney

OK updating my rig (can't find original post) almost complete just waiting on my 3 80GB ssd's to run in raid 0 and I am done, decided i'll sell the other swiftech 240 rad and EK full board classified block in the marketplace.

EK HF CPU block, EK 470 blocks, xflow 360 rad on top with shrouds and swiftech 360 on back of haf 932, tri-sli 470's evga of course on classified with i7 930 and patriot extreme ram and a evo galaxy 1250 watt to power all of that







...

so what do you think?


----------



## PeaceMaker

Very nice pgmoney... do you have push pull w/ shrouds on both sides?


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *driftingforlife* 
this is my first loop is finished a week ago. i need some advice, i am usin zlman g200 coolant but as you can see. it isn't blue. i would like some blue coolant the you can really see, what would you recommend. thanks

Thermochill EC6 UV Blue









Quote:


Originally Posted by *KShirza1* 
Thats fantastic compliment coming from such a artist.

help me with a theme!

i know my 840 is begging for a creative touch right now

I think the case itself needs some changing - what about getting it re-annodized red?


----------



## sacmo77

add me !


----------



## oliverw92

Holy nice rig batman!


----------



## sacmo77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Holy nice rig batman!

Thanks man, it was a lot of work and a lot of money but she is complete running at a nice stable 4.4 ghz


----------



## mcpetrolhead

I havent quite got my new loop together but i have my waterblock (as made by me):









And my radiator:









I just need to put it together now.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Thermochill EC6 UV Blue









thank you


----------



## pgmoney

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PeaceMaker*


Very nice pgmoney... do you have push pull w/ shrouds on both sides?


thanks

my top 360 x flow is 360 shroud push only and my back swiftech is 3 push and 1 fan pull will be adding the other 2 fans once they get here, for full push pull on back with no shrouds.

my temps are under full load cpu 55c-58c and gpu's 40c-42c vreg 28c nb/sb 55c. all on a single loop the ek blocks really have a great flow rate to them.


----------



## PeaceMaker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pgmoney*


thanks

my top 360 x flow is 360 shroud push only and my back swiftech is 3 push and 1 fan pull will be adding the other 2 fans once they get here, for full push pull on back with no shrouds.

my temps are under full load cpu 55c-58c and gpu's 40c-42c vreg 28c nb/sb 55c. all on a single loop the ek blocks really have a great flow rate to them.


Well, technically, don't you have the top 200mm fan pulling?


----------



## half a moon

Not sure if I'll do water cooling, but I want to educate myself.

Can you build a good loop without modding a case?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *half a moon*


Can you build a good loop without modding a case?


Easily.

If you have enough space on the backside of your computer (outside), you can mount it back there. The pump, reservoir, waterblocks won't take up that much space internally.


----------



## oliverw92

Or you can get a case like the Corsair Obsidian 800D that has space already for a 360 rad up top and plenty of room down below for a pump.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Or you can get a case like the Corsair Obsidian 800D that has space already for a 360 rad up top and plenty of room down below for a pump.


800D FTW. Do you even have the 800D? I see you promote that case over and over, and it looks like you don't have one. I'm just asking I'm not trying to jump on you for promoting it.


----------



## oliverw92

I don't really promote it, i just like it - it's one of the few cases where the manufacturer has actually though about what people WANT and need, not what will make little kids go 'oooo' at the outsides, and then when they get it think 'oh' it looks sick, but i can't fit anything in it'.

I also originally planned a mod around it, but decided not in the end and instead went with the TJ07 (something i don't regret - the 800D is pretty much perfect already, except it could do with more stock rad space)

My favourite case is the TJ07 though - genius bit of design


----------



## half a moon

So, I only want to OC a i7-30 and just one 5850 or 470. Would one rad be enough? Does the HAF 932/X have enough room for the other components?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


800D FTW. Do you even have the 800D? I see you promote that case over and over, and it looks like you don't have one. I'm just asking I'm not trying to jump on you for promoting it.


----------



## hy897t

If you have a decent 360 rad you could cool an i7 and a GPU without a problem. Also the HAF 932 has a ton of space at the top for a 360. This is without modding. With modding I was able to get a 360 and a 240 rad inside. I have seen 2 360s with modding. The case is great for WC!!!


----------



## mitchbowman

do you want a full size tower or is medium big enough ????\\


----------



## half a moon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS*


If you have a decent 360 rad you could cool an i7 and a GPU without a problem. Also the HAF 932 has a ton of space at the top for a 360. This is without modding. With modding I was able to get a 360 and a 240 rad inside. I have seen 2 360s with modding. The case is great for WC!!!


What loop design would it be? Reservoir>Pump>Radiator>CPU>GPU>Reservoir ? Is there a way to not have hot water go into the GPU?

Edit: I know nothing about water cooling but I had a thought...
What if I did this.... Reservoir>Pump>Radiator(Exhaust)>CPU Corsair H50 Plate>Corsair H50 Push/Pull Intake Radiator>GPU>Reservoir. If I can't Mod the H50 radiator, is their a 120MM radiator I can mount as Push/Pull inside the case on the back?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mitchbowman*


do you want a full size tower or is medium big enough ????\\


Me? Either. I'm looking for.. $200 USD and under, good air cooling for non water cooling setup, cpu retaining hole, 360 radiator space in the case, room for pump/reservoir without modding.


----------



## mitchbowman

what about a CM 690II (im not just saying it cuz i have 1) but you can fit 2x240mm rads without modding and it still looks neat

i would go res =>pump=>rad1=>cpu=>rad2=>gpu=>res


----------



## half a moon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mitchbowman*


what about a CM 690II (im not just saying it cuz i have 1) but you can fit 2x240mm rads without modding and it still looks neat

i would go res =>pump=>rad1=>cpu=>rad2=>gpu=>res


I have nothing against the CM 690II. In fact, it's on my list of 5+ cases to choose from.

I edited my previous post. Just to note, the reason I mention the Corsair H50 is because I want to use air cooling for a while and use it as a stepping stone.

How would a Reservoir>Pump>360 Radiator(Exhaust)>CPU Corsair H50 Plate>Push/Pull 120 Radiator(Intake)>GPU>Reservoir compare to what you said.


----------



## ny_driver

same idea


----------



## pgmoney

Quote:



Originally Posted by *half a moon*


I have nothing against the CM 690II. In fact, it's on my list of 5+ cases to choose from.

I edited my previous post. Just to note, the reason I mention the Corsair H50 is because I want to use air cooling for a while and use it as a stepping stone.

How would a Reservoir>Pump>360 Radiator(Exhaust)>CPU Corsair H50 Plate>Push/Pull 120 Radiator(Intake)>GPU>Reservoir compare to what you said.


don't try to include the H50 in any loop it will slow down flow rate. just remove that from the thought process


----------



## mitchbowman

it's the same loop order as what i said but i wouldn't use the H50 rad but that's just me


----------



## half a moon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pgmoney*


don't try to include the H50 in any loop it will slow down flow rate. just remove that from the thought process


The rad or the plate too?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mitchbowman*


it's the same loop order as what i said but i wouldn't use the H50 rad but that's just me


Well I wanted to know how a 320 and 120 would compare to 2x240.


----------



## oliverw92

Don't bother with the h50 in the loop - the pump will not handle that amount of resistance in the loop and will die. It also isn't a very good CPU block. The radiator is alright, but just get a new one that will perform better.

You will not notice the difference between a 320 + 120 and 2x 240 - pretty much identical.


----------



## bundymania

The Dynamic Duo


----------



## half a moon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Don't bother with the h50 in the loop - the pump will not handle that amount of resistance in the loop and will die. It also isn't a very good CPU block. The radiator is alright, but just get a new one that will perform better.

You will not notice the difference between a 320 + 120 and 2x 240 - pretty much identical.

I understand now. Thanks.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Salvo210

still needs some wire management and hardware


----------



## bundymania

Look at this beautiful Waterblock now


















Special Limited Edition - i got mine from aquatuning


----------



## shan1784

Here is mine.. Just finished it about an hour ago...




























CPU Block - Heat Killer 3.0
GPU - Koolance VID-NX295
Pump - Swiftech MPC355 with XSPC Res Top
Rad - Swiftech MCR320-QP x1 and Swiftech MCR220-QP x1
Tubing - Feser Blue UV
Fittings - All Bitspower Shining Silver Compression


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shan1784* 
Here is mine.. Just finished it about an hour ago...









CPU Block - Heat Killer 3.0
GPU - Koolance VID-NX295
Pump - Swiftech MPC355 with XSPC Res Top
Rad - Swiftech MCR320-QP x1 and Swiftech MCR220-QP x1
Tubing - Feser Blue UV
Fittings - All Bitspower Shining Silver Compression

Nice use of elbows and 45's!
Makes that external rad blend in great!


----------



## smartasien

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Salvo210* 








still needs some wire management and hardware









O M G
thats the shortest loop i've ever seen you used like what 1 foot of tubing lol. clean as hell! I needa figure a way to do that


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Look at this beautiful Waterblock now









Special Limited Edition - i got mine from aquatuning

Aquatuning is a bad company


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smartasien* 
O M G
thats the shortest loop i've ever seen you used like what 1 foot of tubing lol. clean as hell! I needa figure a way to do that









there is one thats shorter









pg. 250

:: Never think ive ever said that sentence proudly before... ::


----------



## bundymania

Yes, the nickel plated surface could be better


----------



## NomNomNom

Has anyone tried PTnuke AND silver?


----------



## oliverw92

Finish looks a little odd on that bundy?


----------



## austinb324

Alright guys her she is. Just finished taking the pictures. Some of the shots aren't that great but its the best I could do with the camera I'm working with(Canon PowerShot A470). Hope you enjoy!













































































































CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee-XT
Radiator: Swiftech MCR320-QP
Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRes
Tubing: Clearflex 60 1/2ID 3/4OD
Coolant: Feser One(noob mistake)


----------



## junkyard00000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NomNomNom* 
Has anyone tried PTnuke AND silver?

I wouldn't think so.. seeing as they both do the same thing.


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## austinb324

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NomNomNom* 
Has anyone tried PTnuke AND silver?

Yes, I know someone who has. Also that's what I plan on doing in my loop. The pt keeps the loop clean while the silver is building up in the loop(which takes a while). Plus how can redundancy hurt when its only an extra few bucks?


----------



## NomNomNom

Thats what i thought


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated. (sorry for the delay)


----------



## CD69Scorp

Hay, Would like to make another update. Made a couple of small changes!

Changed tubing to black and got rid of the dye, and a little rearranging of the tubing.
Remounted Panaflo fan for a little more room.
A couple more fans. And made some plastic covers for psu, res & pumps.
Added a ROG OC Station for monitoring.
And a new i7 930 chip to replace my 920co. I have it up to 4.52 stable!! I am finally able to utilize my W/Cing the way I had hoped to.
Let me know what you think.. Thanks









By cd69scorp at 2010-05-08









By cd69scorp at 2010-05-23









By cd69scorp at 2010-05-08









By cd69scorp at 2010-05-08









By cd69scorp at 2010-05-08


----------



## KShirza1

That looks great scorp as always!


----------



## UnWantedSoldier

That looks sick my friend. What technique did you use to bend the plexi around the PSU?


----------



## bundymania

News from Taiwan


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## driftingforlife

i have just got the Thermochill EC6 UV Blue. do you have to add disstiled water to it or not. if you do how much coolant do you add to the water. thanks


----------



## bundymania

ItÂ´s premixed, so you dont need to add extra Water







But you *can* add max. ~ 200ml, when you need a little more fluid and donÂ´t wanna buy another bottle, because the concentration of the ingredients is imo high enough to add a bit more destilled water.


----------



## oliverw92

bundy just so you know, Thermochill say you shouldn't distill it at all - a few people have asked.


----------



## bundymania

Sure, i would say it too, if i were the boss of TC







ItÂ´s no problem to add a bit dest. Water on EVERY Premix Bottles there are available on the market !


----------



## jfella91

Hyey i got t water c ooling set up corsair h50 i luv watercooling it is awwwesome.


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jfella91*


Hyey i got t water c ooling set up corsair h50 i luv watercooling it is awwwesome.


i dont know if that water cooling is anything to be proud of if the installation is the same as a air cooler... i mean seriously people just open a box and put in 8 screws and are water cooling enthusiast?

is this a grey area that im not understanding or something?

someone set me straight on this

also sorry if this has been addressed before an i missed it


----------



## oliverw92

Corsair h50 is accepted as watercooling in this club


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Corsair h50 is accepted as watercooling in this club










Thats right, but it doesnt have the "pain" of installing real watercooling with fittings, hose clambs etc.. you just miss the risks (which are small with some experience) if you just install something like the H50.
And dont get me wrong, i love the H50







but its as easy as a "normal" air cooler.


----------



## kromar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*


Thats right, but it doesnt have the "pain" of installing real watercooling with fittings, hose clambs etc.. you just miss the risks (which are small with some experience) if you just install something like the H50.
And dont get me wrong, i love the H50







but its as easy as a "normal" air cooler.


pain? what pain?  thats the fun part of a custom setup


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kromar*


pain? what pain?  thats the fun part of a custom setup










ye, thats why i used ""







its a pain till its finished. 
And ive had a few problems that returned a few times. If a problem is "easy" to fix than it wont be a big deal, but a returning problem is a "pain"...


----------



## mitchbowman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*












Bundy are they your pump's


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Corsair h50 is accepted as watercooling in this club










I mean yes its watercooling, and im not doubting that

but the guy said "i luv watercooling it is awwwesome"

where does the "awwwesome" begin with a h50... the 8 screw? i guess that could be fun...


----------



## mitchbowman

i think it's awesome to compared to a BigWater kit


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KShirza1*


I mean yes its watercooling, and im not doubting that

but the guy said "i luv watercooling it is awwwesome"

where does the "awwwesome" begin with a h50... the 8 screw? i guess that could be fun...


I think it's just the fact that it's something different than using air as the source of cooling. It is simple to install and the performance it gives is relatively that of the high-end air coolers if not better. That being said, the H50 does not come anywhere close to the performance and cooling gains you can get from a full custom loop. It does however, get those who are interested in water cooling a chance to get their "feet wet" before making the jump into going that route.


----------



## OfficerMac

Finally all put together


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


I think it's just the fact that it's something different than using air as the source of cooling. It is simple to install and the performance it gives is relatively that of the high-end air coolers if not better. That being said, the H50 does not come anywhere close to the performance and cooling gains you can get from a full custom loop. It does however, get those who are interested in water cooling a chance to get their "feet wet" before making the jump into going that route.


true


----------



## Tank

heres some updated pictures of my system...still need to do some wire management but for now my monitor hides everything, lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

also changed up the first page some. 

Anyone wanna have a go at a new banner? The one we have now is nice, but I like to mix things up a little. ;-)


----------



## wermad

new case and extra rad added
















































^^^ as you can see this sucker is heavy, found a solution in order to not break my desk







, comparo w/ old HAF 932 case


----------



## xxlawman87xx

HOLY HELL! I am in the process of getting the parts for my Lian Li 343b build and this makes me scared as to whats in my future...LOL


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I think it's just the fact that it's something different than using air as the source of cooling. It is simple to install and the performance it gives is relatively that of the high-end air coolers if not better. That being said, the H50 does not come anywhere close to the performance and cooling gains you can get from a full custom loop. It does however, get those who are interested in water cooling a chance to get their "feet wet" before making the jump into going that route.

I get that, but the fun i have pouring water into my res and watch my pump suck it up for the first time... yup good times.

and a custom h50 begs the question

other than that i love h50's for what they are for sure. hell i install asetec coolers on alot of my custom builds if not the tx3 to save money.


----------



## PeaceMaker

WHat was the solution??? i have the same desk... and have the same issue.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated.

wermad, that thing is lookin' pretty intense.


----------



## kill_mellon

i love this thread! good work everyone!


----------



## bundymania

...fits on HD 5850 / HD 5870


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PeaceMaker* 
WHat was the solution??? i have the same desk... and have the same issue.

its an "L" desk, moved it to the small desk part, short span, less bowing. still sort of a hassle to rotate it for final details. Im thinking of rotating the front panel to have drive bays on top and put on the floor, but then i wont be able to admire it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## dennis_g

my new update








all the sleeving is complete and its looks perfect
































and my yate loons paints to red







looks nice..








cathode contolers.. (i dont know how they call in english sorry)









next week my 2 card will be arived..
2x 5770 with mcw80 blocks








thanks


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mav2000

Here is mine...my FIRST LC setup..

Lights on:










Lights off:










And then somewhere in between:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

bundy, you have nearly 8 times as many posts as anyone else in this thread.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

lol, still it looks awsome though








Tbh i prefer the 5870 block, the text looks a lot brighter! (or is it just the light?)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*


lol, still it looks awsome though








Tbh i prefer the 5870 block, the text looks a lot brighter! (or is it just the light?)


one is printed on and the other is clear acrylic that can be lit up with leds.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


one is printed on and the other is clear acrylic that can be lit up with leds.


Ah thanks, i would go for the printed one(5870), cant use that much light in my room atm...xD
Though for the folding i would get the 480 instead


----------



## bundymania

3 are better than 2 !


----------



## Yogi

You know what would be better then 3? 17!!! gogogogo


----------



## MRHANDS

This is my first attempt at WCing. I'm very pleased with it.

Keeps my 860 @4ghz 1.35v at 63c under load with all three fans turned up. 68c with fans at slowest speeds.


----------



## mitchbowman

look's good


----------



## kevingreenbmx

sorry, too drunk to updasate right now, but i will get to it in the morning.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
sorry, too drunk to updasate right now, but i will get to it in the morning. 

Ndaar-frekin-standalbe..must eat greeeeezy food to recover...will updater...at time later


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SheaGA

May i join this fine club? here is my toy.


----------



## ny_driver

Looks nice!


----------



## Bodycount

@sheaGA


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

sheaGA, I wouldn't mind seeing some more pics of that, do you have a work log?


----------



## SheaGA

i starterd a work log about a year ago. but as you know it never stops when your a w/c junkie. i'll take some more shots and put them up. thanks guys


----------



## KShirza1

should i add uv reactive additive to my loop? will i need drain and clean often? problems?


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KShirza1* 
should i add uv reactive additive to my loop? will i need drain and clean often? problems?

Dont.

It WILL clog your system. The second you add it to your loop it will start to build up, so even if you change the water every week w/o flushing with vinegar you will see residue within a month or two. Its way to much of a hassle.

Just go UV tubing w/ PT nuke or a Silvercoil.


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vermillion*


Dont.

It WILL clog your system. The second you add it to your loop it will start to build up, so even if you change the water every week w/o flushing with vinegar you will see residue within a month or two. Its way to much of a hassle.

Just go UV tubing w/ PT nuke or a Silvercoil.


im more interested in getting some color in my res. I have a UV light going through it now, and a red led is annoyingly bright.


----------



## cleiomar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KShirza1*


im more interested in getting some color in my res. I have a UV light going through it now, and a red led is annoyingly bright.


This dye shouldn't clog up or stain, at least that's what I've heard.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=230290


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*












wonder what itll look like with the writing cut out.... and like clear acrylic their... so the liquid in ur loop colors it









EDIT: and the logo XD


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cleiomar*


This dye shouldn't clog up or stain, at least that's what I've heard.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=230290


hmmm... anyone else have any thoughts on this?


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cleiomar*


This dye shouldn't clog up or stain, at least that's what I've heard.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=230290














































nice work


----------



## Midnightorion

I don't know, but I have some UV reactive blue dye in my system and it doesn't clog or build up. I don't remember where I order it from either, its in a plain white bottle, and the worst thing about it is, my UV lights died and I never replaced them, so I have this UV coolant and nothing to show it off with lol. Hmm, which lights to order......


----------



## bundymania

Lights off, Spot on - the brandnew CPU Waterblock from Aquacomputer.de




























There will be 3 versions: Nickel, Brass and Acetal !

2 more Pics from the AC Forum


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

and my 2cents: I have seen WAY too many horror stories and messes from dyes to use them myself. I like my blocks and acrylic parts too much for that...


----------



## NoGuru

New blocks look fantastic.


----------



## Outcasst

Add me in please









Apogee GTZ
MCP355 with XSPC Res Top
Swiftech MCR220


----------



## NoGuru

bundymania can you tell me how much the blocks would be in US currency and will they be available in the US?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Outcasst, I like that a lot more than your first post. it looks nice and clean.









updated


----------



## Swiftes

yeah, very clean setup there mate









I'll get some snaps of mine up shortly, on my ghetto bench atm, ordering my V351 next week tho


----------



## prase007

Damn, I wanted to post my pics, but after what I seen here, I will rather take my rig into the workshop for some tuning during this evening


----------



## mitchbowman

No one will judge u here because of the looks or your rig 
Just give you tip's on how to make it look neater / cleaner 
Feel free to post your pic's


----------



## prase007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mitchbowman* 
No one will judge u here because of the looks or your rig
Just give you tip's on how to make it look neater / cleaner
Feel free to post your pic's

Nah, I am not scared of you guys







In fact, I got inspired to do few things and will post some pics after. Last days I am bored by gaming anyways, so the workshop job and some tuning will be more entertaining for sure.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


bundymania can you tell me how much the blocks would be in US currency and will they be available in the US?


I donÂ´t know atm. Pls write a mail to: [email protected] or ask in the english section from the AC Forum

Another day, another block




































gtx 480 waterblock


----------



## oliverw92

Bundy does the aluminium top come in contact with the coolant?


----------



## bundymania

Where do you see a Alu Top ?







ItÂ´s made of stainless steel !


----------



## oliverw92

Oh, that would make sense then







It does look like aluminium


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Warfarin88

I've browsed this thread dozen's of times, I just realized I've never posted in it.









Here's my Lian Li build from last year:























































Swiftech and BP blocks, 3x MCR220 rads, D5 pump.

Worklog here: Sleeper.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated with new award winner (this is a special one)


----------



## NoGuru

Super nice warfar!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

awesome rig Warfarin88!


----------



## jarble

that is beyond clean


----------



## Liighthead

*Drool* so clean *droool*


----------



## PeaceMaker

@Warfarin's buiuld:








Gahh, I want that build.


----------



## Warfarin88

Thanks fellas. Was a lot of fun for my first water cooled build. I learned a lot, and am currently scheming on its successor.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated with new award winner (this is a special one) 

I LOL'd.


----------



## Rick Arter

Nothing special over here but water cooling none the less!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

nickel plating ftw


----------



## Swiftes

made in poland Bundy?


----------



## bundymania

Nah, this time duniek was not involed


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Nah, this time duniek was not involed



















hmm, do you have some information about that block?
Looks like an acrylic top for the heatkiller 3.0


----------



## bundymania

Yep, we ordered about 10 pieces of this HK top in a group buy @forumdeluxx.de, half of them cracked or had other errors, so now he gets them back for RMA


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Yep, we ordered about 10 pieces of this HK top in a group buy @forumdeluxx.de, half of them cracked or had other errors, so now he gets them back for RMA









Thats a pity... so pretty poor quality?

They will look awsome with uv fluid though


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys, I don't know what happened and I do not want to know, but could you please keep it out of this thread? If some one is selling bad parts by all means let everyone know, but keep it reasonable and please don't argue/accuse here.

updated.

and bundymania, If you are going to keep posting pics of just parts then please put the following info in each post:

who is the manufacturer?
what is the name of the part?
When will it be available?
where will it be available?
What do you think of it? Is it well made? does it work well?

I am getting tired of these random pics of a single parts that don't give us any information other than the part looks pretty.


----------



## R00ST3R

May I offer to "lighten'" things up here with pics of my crappy system? Well I'm going to anyways







...and here we go...




























Just received some pump shexma in the mail, the BP D5 Mod Top V2, and "Black Silver" D5/MCP655 mod kit. Gonna be a fun weekend







.


----------



## wermad

Crappy??? I'd see really nice execution and the diamond-plate gives it a special & unique touch.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Crappy??? I'd see really nice execution and the diamond-plate gives it a special & unique touch.

Exactly, i agree! It looks gorgeous


----------



## kevingreenbmx

if that is crappy I wanna see your good work. 

Updated


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Crappy??? I'd see really nice execution and the diamond-plate gives it a special & unique touch.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Exactly, i agree! It looks gorgeous










Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
if that is crappy I wanna see your good work. 

Updated


Thank you much guys, appreciate the compliments. I really don't think it's "crappy" per say, like I mentioned previously...just tryin to lighten the mood in this thread







. Honestly though, getting compliments from people such as yourselves who's own work I admire (a ton btw) means alot. Thank you!


----------



## NoGuru

Nice work Rooster!


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
if that is crappy I wanna see your good work. 

Updated

Hell, i wanna see his bad work


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


Nice work Rooster!


Thank's NoGuru!


----------



## mitchbowman

Can anyone see any better way to make this loop hidden or neater


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D*


***edited because you know what happened***


I asked a Moderator to remove the earlier debate and yours where not the only ones deleted. Now would you kindly not bring it up again in this thread?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mitchbowman*


Can anyone see any better way to make this loop hidden or neater


I would need to see more pics.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys, I am still looking for a new banner if anyone wants to give it a shot.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey guys, I am still looking for a new banner if anyone wants to give it a shot. 

Any idea what you would want?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Any idea what you would want?

none at all, I just feel like changing it up a bit.


----------



## mitchbowman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I would need to see more pics.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

alright, drop the T-line and use your res to fill, put the res in the bottom open bay, have the inlet to the pump come straight out of the res with only like 1"-2" of tubing and with the pump rotated so that you can have a single short curve of tubing straight into the rad. then have the rad go to cpu and back to the res.

if you just be careful with your curves and place the parts right you should be able to cut out about 1/3 of the tubing you have there.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey guys, I am still looking for a new banner if anyone wants to give it a shot. 

Might want to post in the Artision section and ask them for one.
I asked them for a benchmarking water mark for me and they had me one in less then an hour.

Thanks for all the work updated the thread.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
May I offer to "lighten'" things up here with pics of my crappy system? Well I'm going to anyways







...and here we go...

http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...acktube009.jpg

http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...acktube015.jpg

http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...acktube016.jpg

Just received some pump shexma in the mail, the BP D5 Mod Top V2, and "Black Silver" D5/MCP655 mod kit. Gonna be a fun weekend







.

Thats an awesome rig you got there


----------



## Tiger S.

I put this EK block on my 470, followed the directions and filled by loop.. Did a leak test and hooked it up only to find artifacts all over the screen. So I had to undo the loop and remount the block. Apparently the metal bracket that came with the block to surround the chip was grounding out the pcb. So I put some thermal tape in between the pcb/bracket and it worked fine. The beauty is a 470 and i7 in one loop is never going over 45c full load.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Its a pain in the @$$ for Kevin to updat it every time. If there is no usefull information its kinda useless. I like seeing new stuff, but at least give us some information about it.
So if bundy takes some time he doesnt have to stop, but its up to him...


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freakn* 
I didn't realise Kevin update's the list for every post a member makes.

My bad, I thought It was only for each new loop/rig.

Yea, I try very hard to acknowledge every new post that has pictures or video by by adding it to the list on the front page. It takes a lot of work, but I feel it is worth it to help keep this thread clean and useful.

I have no problem with bundymania continuing to post pics, but from now on they MUST either have a FULL REVIEW (as in multiple paragraphs at the least) or be a full system up and running that has not been posted before or has significant changes from what it was before.

bundy, if you cannot comply with that because of OCN's terms of service then do not make the post. This thread is not here to get you extra hits and advertising. It is intended for the members to show off their hard work and for other members to get ideas from their work for how to setup their own systems.


----------



## oliverw92

I admire you for the work you put into this thread kevin


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I admire you for the work you put into this thread kevin









thanks, it is a pleasure 90% of the time. the only annoying part is when I come check it out after being off the internet for a few days and there are 20 updates to make. 

The list is getting pretty large and it takes time to check to see who has posted before and who has not and then to edit the existing members and add the new ones.


----------



## Swiftes

I also admire the effort you put in Kevin


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I admire you for the work you put into this thread kevin










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
I also admire the effort you put in Kevin









I do too.
I had the 4 GHz club for a long time, but the chips these days will do 4 no problem. I had at least 10 updates a day when the i7 came out.

So yeah, hats off to you Kevin. It's almost like a second job.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
I also admire the effort you put in Kevin









thanks 

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoGuru* 
I do too.
I had the 4 GHz club for a long time, but the chips these days will do 4 no problem. I had at least 10 updates a day when the i7 came out.

So yeah, hats off to you Kevin. It's almost like a second job.

also thanks. 

it is like a second job that doesn't pay and you do completely because you feel like it.  (oh, and one you can quite anytime you want if you get frustrated with it and noone would be able to do anything about it)

just kidding, i wouldn't do that to you guys...

yet.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
I also admire the effort you put in Kevin










Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoGuru* 
I do too.
I had the 4 GHz club for a long time, but the chips these days will do 4 no problem. I had at least 10 updates a day when the i7 came out.

So yeah, hats off to you Kevin. It's almost like a second job.

The only thing I admire more is the amount of effort he put into his rig. Been looking at it for months. Such a nice build, it rocks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
The only thing I admire more is the amount of effort he put into his rig. Been looking at it for months. Such a nice build, it rocks









thanks man! I wish I was making enough money to finish it. I did just get an EK 240mm rad in the mail and I have another swiftech 120mm that is waiting to be repainted and installed. I will probably wait until I can get the rest of the stuff I need to finish it though. once I get all the stuff I want the work to go quick so I can get it all done at once and be able to say truthfully that I AM done.









(mainly because I have another build planned as soon as i get this one to a point that i feel safe calling it done)

It is going to be a completely custom case of my own design that is completely different from anything I have seen built before. I intend to give new meaning to the tower pc. ;-) (and I will get to show Olli what I can do with acrylic)


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
It helps to anyone searching the thread/forums looking for a certain product. If the product name is in the photo itself it won't show up when searched.

If you mean by using goggle even renaming the file name to the name or part# shown in the pic will show up.

But i feel it pretains more to this thread and the members of OCN and those that are just getting started with watercooling. I felt the same way since the 1st pic posted but never said anything but i do really apreciate Bundys post. and Kevin what can i say? You sir are a exellent manager

Hey bundy if your feeling froggy one day maybe you can edit you old posts/pics all 10,875


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
If you mean by using goggle even renaming the file name to the name or part# shown in the pic will show up.

that will not make it show up using the good search tool

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Kevin what can i say? You sir are a exellent manager

thanks, ya'll make me blush.


















Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Hey bundy if your feeling froggy one day maybe you can edit you old posts/pics all 10,875
















nah man, he only has...

96


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
that will not make it show up using the good search tool

thanks, ya'll make me blush.


















nah man, he only has...

96









i know man i exaggerated a little.

But yes you would be amazed at what goggle can pick up besides the obvious searches.

If i posted here i can submit that url to goggle to show in search results


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 







i know man i exaggerated a little.

just as there was intended to be more than a slight hint of sarcasm in my response.


----------



## looser101




----------



## kevingreenbmx

that is lookin pretty sweet man, good job

updated


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
that is lookin pretty sweet man, good job

updated

Thanks. Also thanks for this thread and your regular updates. We all appreciate your hard work keeping this thread updated. It's my first custom loop and I'm enjoying how quiet it is, even when folding.


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Banner Idea: While it would take someone with far more artistic skill than me, how about a banner that has a mobo on its corner with a pump pouring water over the board and steam rising from the board with the title of the thread in the steam.......just a thought.


----------



## Doomas

I will try to join is well, if you dont mind ..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Swiftes

New PSU is due here imminently, now I am stuck with trying to get 3/8" Feser tubing over my D4's barbs, any ideas? It is the little flange on the ridge of the fitting that appears to be making it hard for me, debating filing it, unless anyone can really help? Tried boiling water on the tubing, and lots of force, am I missing something basic?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
New PSU is due here imminently, now I am stuck with trying to get 3/8" Feser tubing over my D4's barbs, any ideas? It is the little flange on the ridge of the fitting that appears to be making it hard for me, debating filing it, unless anyone can really help? Tried boiling water on the tubing, and lots of force, am I missing something basic?

it won't be easy, but if you actually put the end of the tubing in the pot of boiling water for 15-30 seconds and push real hard it will go on. I have seen people put 1/4" tube on 3/8" barbs and that is way tighter than 3/8" on 1/2"


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
it won't be easy, but if you actually put the end of the tubing in the pot of boiling water for 15-30 seconds and push real hard it will go on. I have seen people put 1/4" tube on 3/8" barbs and that is way tighter than 3/8" on 1/2"

I am trying, but the D4 seems to have a lip on the fitting, its making it nearly impossible, it goes on normal 1/2" fittings fine though







I may have to compramise and use a mixture of fittings for now.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
I am trying, but the D4 seems to have a lip on the fitting, its making it nearly impossible, it goes on normal 1/2" fittings fine though







I may have to compramise and use a mixture of fittings for now.

Heat it up. Stick a pair of needle nose pliers into the end of the tubing. Open the pliers to stretch the tubing. Good luck.


----------



## oliverw92

Can you get a pic of this flange?


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
I am trying, but the D4 seems to have a lip on the fitting, its making it nearly impossible, it goes on normal 1/2" fittings fine though







I may have to compramise and use a mixture of fittings for now.

Likes been said hot water works pretty well as does heating and needle nose pliers. A little glycerin on plastic barbs helps and soaking the end in rubbing alcohol helps a lot on metal barbs. Once it starts going on don't stop pushing.

It's the same size as the D5 and a lot of guys use 3/8" on them.


----------



## merple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Can you get a pic of this flange?


wahay


----------



## Swiftes

Thanks for the tips guys, got one on, but the other proved to be evil! And in all the loops I have had over the years (Had a year break or so due to funds) this was has been the biggest pain!

Now the pump emits a really really high pitched whine, all is bled properly and flow is ace, contact the buyer who partially refunded me, no quibbles there!

Any ideas?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
Thanks for the tips guys, got one on, but the other proved to be evil! And in all the loops I have had over the years (Had a year break or so due to funds) this was has been the biggest pain!

Now the pump emits a really really high pitched whine, all is bled properly and flow is ace, contact the buyer who partially refunded me, no quibbles there!

Any ideas?

High pitched wine tells me theres a big bubble in it, mine has done it, but then you said the flow is ace, so hmm, maybe pump's dying.


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
High pitched wine tells me theres a big bubble in it, mine has done it, but then you said the flow is ace, so hmm, maybe pump's dying.

Its getting a bit quieter, still really annoying though, all appears to be well, I am not sure


----------



## ira-k

If it's quieting down it was probably just air trapped in it. If you can shake your pump that will speed it up, or at least tap on the side of it a little. Case tipping helps to work it all out to, really rock it around front to back and side to side..

I always leave my pump un-mounted so I an shake it a little while I'm bleeding and then mount it when I'm done.


----------



## Swiftes

Yeah I messed around with it, still that noise, so I wrapped it in an old jumper with a fan forced on it, much better!









Pics of the ghetto rig:


----------



## Starbuck5000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swiftes* 
Yeah I messed around with it, still that noise, so I wrapped it in an old jumper with a fan forced on it, much better!









Pics of the ghetto rig:





































Christ cant get more ghetto than that


----------



## Swiftes

Gigigity


----------



## [email protected]'D

haha Myn's starting to look a bit ghetto whilst its in the moving stage to my new bench










HD balanced on rad, tie wraps holding my temp. rad up etc etc


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Black tubing looks good Foxy. I am still using white but looking into using black tubing next time. Check out my sig for my tech bench


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Black tubing looks good Foxy. I am still using white but looking into using black tubing next time. Check out my sig for my tech bench
















Yours looks pretty sick with the white though


----------



## Rocket7

Hello I don't have water cooling but I'm interested in getting it could you guys tell my the components ill be needing. Thanx


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I fixed the link in my sig, for some reason it was redirecting me to the Black Pearl thread


----------



## LiLChris

Just spent probably 2 hours or so going through the 272 pages...

Wow all these look great, cant wait to start mine this summer.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...op-please.html
Just need some more advice so i get an idea on how much money i need to save.


----------



## oliverw92

Now that's dedication going through every single thread









Lil Chris, i got to ask, why are you selling your Revolution when it is a million times better than your Corsair HX1000?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Hey kevin, I can probably make a banner next week because I'll be on holiday


----------



## Swiftes

I am also working on a banner Kevin, Ill let you see it soon


----------



## MRHANDS

Gotta question. My hoses are turning green, but the water in the res is still clear. Algae? If so, will getting a silver killcoil make it go away, or do i need to get new tubing?


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LiLChris* 
Just spent probably 2 hours or so going through the 272 pages...

Change your settings...
Its only 28 pages to me


----------



## Swiftes

Verdict?









Or this?










or my favourite:


----------



## Dar_T

^^^ I like it


----------



## oliverw92

Last one is my favourite


----------



## sorage

Yup last one look great


----------



## [email protected]'D

Someone finish this off for me and add some text I really can't be bothered at the minute


----------



## ny_driver

I added these 2 x EK FC4890 LT to my loop along with a nice new paint job. Leak testing now and waiting for the FedEx man with my new motherboard.







USPS would have had it here Friday.









EDIT: motherboard is in the building.









EDIT: really leak testing in pic 3


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated

Thanks for the banners guys! First one to be reposted in the right resolution so that the site does not automatically resize it is the one I will use for a while. the others I will keep for next time I decide to change it up!


----------



## [email protected]'D

Changed to black and white and added club name with Porsche 911 style font










Looks best if you center it

edit fixed the fat looking D on "AND"


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Thanks foxy!

updated with new banner.


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Thanks foxy!

updated with new banner.

No problem mate


----------



## Swiftes

aww man.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Guess I don't need to make one then


----------



## smartasien

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MRHANDS* 
Gotta question. My hoses are turning green, but the water in the res is still clear. Algae? If so, will getting a silver killcoil make it go away, or do i need to get new tubing?

most likely its just ur clear tubes are getting cloudy. this happens to most if not all clear tubing including tygon. i've had algae grow in my loop b4. and typically it tends to grow in patches and is usually very obvious.


----------



## oliverw92

Would be nice to see what you come up with Spider - no offence foxy, but the HF looks a bit squashed


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Would be nice to see what you come up with Spider - no offence foxy, but the HF looks a bit squashed









Oh okay







Well, I'll give it a shot as soon as I'm done with my current school assignment. Handing it in on Friday. So freaking excited


----------



## Yogi

Got some parts in the mail today








EK Supreme HF Full nickel
EK 5850 Nickel + Acetal


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Got some parts in the mail today








EK Supreme HF Full nickel
EK 5850 Nickel + Acetal

Nice! That's some good lookin' gear


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

and if you feel like making another banner feel free! I will use them all eventually


----------



## Naturecannon

Count me in please!



















* Swiftech MCP655
* Swiftech Micro Rev 2
* EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel
* XSPC RX240 Radiator
* Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm Fan, 1850
* Antimicrobial Silver Strip
* Bitspower Fat Boy G1/4
* Petra'sTech PT Nuke
* PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD Tubing
* Distilled water

Quick video I shot, very quite except when I hit my shin on desk drawer















YouTube- HAF 932 watercooling


----------



## NoGuru

Very nice Naturecannon!

It all looks good but if I had to comment on something, if you could cover the cables coming from the PSU some how, it would look super clean.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Naturecannon* 
Count me in please!

img

* Swiftech MCP655
* Swiftech Micro Rev 2
* EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel
* XSPC RX240 Radiator
* Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm Fan, 1850
* Antimicrobial Silver Strip
* Bitspower Fat Boy G1/4
* Petra'sTech PT Nuke
* PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD Tubing
* Distilled water

Nice rig you got there cannon


----------



## Naturecannon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoGuru* 
Very nice Naturecannon!

It all looks good but if I had to comment on something, if you could cover the cables coming from the PSU some how, it would look super clean.

Thanks

Covering PSU cables on my list along with sleeved 24 pin extension. If you look close you will see I used one of my SSD 2.5 to 3.5 tray to cover some wires in lower drive bay


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Naturecannon* 
Thanks

Covering PSU cables on my list along with sleeved 24 pin extension. If you look close you will see I used one of my SSD 2.5 to 3.5 tray to cover some wires in lower drive bay

Thanks for taking my criticism well. Your at a 10/10 and with it sleeved that will make it a sold 11/10


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Nice! That's some good lookin' gear









Thanks! Ordered the rest of my parts this morning and they should be here Wed or Thurs


----------



## ny_driver

Not too shabby for an old Micron Millenium case. It doesn't get any better with no cable management holes.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SheaGA

Here you go kevin, more of my toy.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

awesome 

updated


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I am now fully water cooled







except the ram of course.

This is my loop: CPU, Mosfets, NB, SB, GPU 1 and GPU 2 all on 1 single Black Ice SR-1 480mm radiator














with Yate Loon 1600 RPM fans on shrouds. I know temps could be lower if I had dedicated GPU loops but my GPUs now top out ~52Âº C with 84ÂºF room temps. CPU loads at high 60s with 1.45V Vtt and 1.28Vcore (HT Off)

Today I added the second GTX 470 courtesy of Capwn. Also added the 90Âº rotary to the second GPU and 45Âº rotary to the reservoir.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
I am now fully water cooled







except the ram of course.

HDDs?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
HDDs?

I've never seen anyone actually w/c their drives. Only seen the hardware for it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I've never seen anyone actually w/c their drives. Only seen the hardware for it.


http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys...-edelweiss.htm

only time i have seen it done.

there is really no point.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Hell, while we're at it we might as well water cool the DVD drive, PSU, and maybe even have a water chilled wrist mat for when you are on the keyboard.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


Hell, while we're at it we might as well water cool the DVD drive, PSU, and maybe even have a water chilled wrist mat for when you are on the keyboard.


^This freakin' guy right here man. Great work once again







.^


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Thanks man.


----------



## ira-k

Looking good 88! Hey I know you don't like noise having it all under water has to help.

What do you think of the Black Ice SR-1? Supposed to be killer rad's, I know the fit and finish are great, all there rad's are.

And your finally on a bench...







...That's the only way to fly for big guys. I can't get my hand's in even tower cases to well to work on stuff. Plus your whole rig is out in the cooler room ambient.

Really nice rig 88.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Thanks and I love this radiator. It is optimized for low speed and up to 2000rpm fans. It has 30% more heat dissipation with fans at or below 2000 rpm compared to the Black Ice GTX.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

88, did you go back and edit in those pics? for some reason they did not show for me when saw it and quoted you...

anyway, updated


----------



## ira-k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


Thanks and I love this radiator. It is optimized for low speed and up to 2000rpm fans. It has 30% more heat dissipation with fans at or below 2000 rpm compared to the Black Ice GTX.


Cool! Sounds like a good one. I've been hooked on there rad's since the Black Ice Pro first came out, the BIP was the first ever made for WC'ing rad, all we had were HC's before that, nothing wrong with HC's I still have a couple that I use from time to time.







Then the next was the Black Ice Extreme for high cfm fans, I still have a couple of BIX and BIP, still nice performing rad's.

The paint jobs on them are always real nice almost automotive type quality.

Yeah, yeah I'm a BI fan boy...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ira-k*


Yeah, yeah I'm a BI fan boy...


someone please sig that...


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

BI? lol























the pics still work


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


the pics still work


yea, I know, they just didn't show up the first time I saw the post so I didn't realize I was supposed to update your list...

I got it now though


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
BI? lol























the pics still work

BI= Black Ice ...







...


----------



## Swiftes

Looking sound 88EVGA, very tidy


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

I hope this is cool a video








YouTube- Corsair Obsidian Water cooled Rig.Specs In description
i will take pics tho

this is my second wc rig on this topic =) last one was sold to a member on OCN.but keep that old rig on here as well thanjs enjoy !


----------



## kevingreenbmx

nice updated from one of our first posters.









updated


----------



## Batou

My SFF Silverstone sugo SG04-H V 2.0 is finally ready after a lot!
I had a corsair H50 before (can see old build on my signature) then i decided
to switch to custom loop asking many things here in OCN before choosing
to put this together again..
Bought a EK 240 rad (47mm was max i could fit there) with a MCP350 and
a EK supreme HF full nickel. All together with Tygon 11/8 tubes and distilled water + petra's biocide.

Here some photos of the case modding and custom loop, enjoy!























































Can i add myself to the club?


----------



## Swiftes

Very nice Batou, I hope to acheive a SFF wc build similar to yours soon


----------



## Bully

Res and radiator are custom made, my first WC project. 
Pump: Thermaltake
CPU Block: OCZ Hydraflow
Standard Tubing
Hyperzero liquid

Cost: Â£60.

35C idle, 45C under load whilst gaming.


----------



## JohnDProb

add me add me!, i just finsihed my loop, jumped to 4,2ghz
parts
mpc655 with ek custom top
distilled water with some antifreeze
ek supreme hi flow block
quad 120 swiftech rad
custom res, liquid fusion, green and blue 120mm uv cathode
2x swiftech rad box
4x silenx 120mm fans, i turned them into shrouds by ripping the guts out
4x gelid 120mm fans
8x bitspower g1/2 1/2in compression fittings shining silver
1 pack of primochill antikink coil black
1/2id tubing its not 5/8 its thicker, the tubing i had was weird and would not fit went to home depot and grabbed some, its vynle? vinle? i cant spell it

i put the fans in the wrong way so its pull with shrouds

ill be getting 4 more soon so it dosent matter anyway

my first wc loop and i know i used too much tubing, the pump drained the res so fas scared the crap out of me

sorry for blurry photos, i took em with my webcam




























you cant see it but the rad is mounted ontop of the case with the 2 rad boxes

2 fan controllers scythe 4 fan controller, and i dont know the other one, its a 3 fan and computer stats one though


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bully*


Res and radiator are custom made, my first WC project. 



I read your log for diy rad, that is very impressive


----------



## Bully

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I read your log for diy rad, that is very impressive










Thanks Wermad









The overall project will hopefully be finished within a month, then i'll take some time to create a proper work log on all aspects of the build and make it into something coherent for others to see









Also i would like to add that the radiator was an original idea by Bindusar in his wall mounted Project:

http://www.rigshowcase.com/pic.php?u=6885aOI&i=14219


----------



## kurosu

Here is my water cooling. I got a DD MC-TDX block, a CPX-PRO pump, a Swiftech Microres v.2, two Alphacool NexXxos Extreme II radiaters, some Ultra Kaze 3k rpm fans, and a Sunbeam fan controller.


----------



## Andreoid

*Asus Crosshair IV formula lightcover*


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bully*













That is friggin sweet! Great job, can't wait to see the finished build.


----------



## [email protected]'D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Andreoid* 










*Asus Crosshair IV formula lightcover*











And the SB?????


----------



## coltsrock

Just a heatkiller 3.0/ heatkiller GPUx3 / MCP655 / Swiftech MCR220QP with 2 medium speed yate loons

keeps my baby nice and chilly


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated!

that was the most new members we have had in a while. 

also, I like the creativity that is going into Bully's build, very nice.


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
And the SB?????











*Asus Crosshair IV formula lightcover + UCDsb or NBSB006*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R00ST3R

Still leak testing.


----------



## Yogi

Got the rest of my parts today, should I start soaking them?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Got the rest of my parts today, should I start soaking them?

there is no need to soak them. all you need to do is wrinse out your rad and blocks with vineager and distilled water alternating back and forth between the two.

for your rad, fill it part of the way and put your thumbs over the fitting holes and shake it like it was a crying baby. that will get all the flux and loose bits of metal out of it.


----------



## oliverw92

there's no need to vinegar your blocks really, only flush them. The rad could do with vinegaring though because of the flux.


----------



## MacG32

240) MacG32 Updating.









*Modified Swiftech H20-220 APEX ULTRA Liquid Cooled CPU & GPU System*

EK Waterblock EK-FB KIT GA X58 (UD7) Nickel

EK-FC5970 Nickel GPU Waterblocks x2
EK-FC5970 RAM Backplate - Nickel x2

Danger Den Koosah Waterblock

Swiftech Apogee XT Extreme Performance CPU Water Block

Swiftech MCR220-QP Liquid Cooler Radiators x2
Swiftech MCB-120 "Radbox" radiator/fan housings Rev 2 - Black x2
SilenX IXP-76-18 120mm Case Fans x4
nMEDIAPC Black 5.25" USB 2.0 Card Reader w/e-SATA & 4 Channel Multi Fan Controller in LCD Display
FilterRight 120mm Aluminum Fan Filter - Black x4
Wire Fan Guards x4

Swiftech MCP 665-B Water Pump
EK-D5 X-TOP Version 2

Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2 Reservoir
Silver Coil

Bitspower Tube Set, Fittings, Adapters, and Barbs
Danger Den Micro Stubby SLI Fitting x2

Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 1/2" ID (3/4"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - Clear & UV Blue
Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - Clear & UV Blue
PrimoChill White Nylon Hose Clamps
Distilled Water


----------



## smartasien

^^^ HAWT @[email protected]

do you keep your case open lol


----------



## MacG32

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smartasien*


^^^ HAWT @[email protected]

do you keep your case open lol


Thank you!







It would draw flies.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## TheOcelot

Just a quick question as I dont want to make a new topic and I can't bump mine yet. But you can fit 3/8 inch tubing on 1/2 inch barbs right? Its just a really tight fit?

Also, how will the MCP350 work on a CPU only loop with a 240 mm rad?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheOcelot* 
Just a quick question as I dont want to make a new topic and I can't bump mine yet. But you can fit 3/8 inch tubing on 1/2 inch barbs right? Its just a really tight fit?

Also, how will the MCP350 work on a CPU only loop with a 240 mm rad?

Definitely can do it. Takes a lot of effort in regards to boiling the ends of the tubes and stretching them over the barbs but it is certainly possible.


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## PeaceMaker

oh my quality that looks beautiful. very nice rig man.


----------



## TheOcelot

Will this reservior support 1/2 inch barbs?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcmire2re.html

And does it come with it?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheOcelot* 
Will this reservior support 1/2 inch barbs?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcmire2re.html

And does it come with it?


Quote:

Parts List

Reservoir
(2) 3/8" barbs, (2) 1/2" barbs, hose clamps
(2) fill-port plugs
Mounting screws
Bracket set including (1) "L" and (2) "U's"
(2) Velcro pads
there ya go. comes with 2 1/2" barbs


----------



## TheOcelot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
there ya go. comes with 2 1/2" barbs

Aw cool thanks. Should I buy it? I have paypal at the ready and I think t-lines look ugly


----------



## smartasien

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheOcelot* 
I think t-lines look ugly









WHAT?! I THINK U LOOK UGLY!









jk. get it if u want it i always say.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheOcelot* 
Will this reservior support 1/2 inch barbs?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcmire2re.html

And does it come with it?

if it says g1/4 threads, its the most common thread type and most pc wc fittings (both barbs and compression) are g1/4, you can find them in 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2 id for tubing used,


----------



## ScottyJ

That's a great rig KShirza1. Awesome build quality.


----------



## Exek

Hey everyone from mother Russia







After like two months of research, ordering and stuff... here is result - my first custom loop.


----------



## Yogi

Nice setup up Exek!

I want to set mine up already!!
These two should do good together


----------



## Exek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Nice setup up Exek!

I want to set mine up already!!
These two should do good together








]http://img203.imageshack.us/i/dsc06682q.jpg/]


Thanks dude, dont run this san aces at full speed or your case will fly up to the roof.








Edit: ah, it's 25m version, my bad. But anyway be careful!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## PeaceMaker

Exek, how did you get barbs on your pump?


----------



## Exek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PeaceMaker*


Exek, how did you get barbs on your pump?


It's a custom made holes for 1/4 fittings, you can order it at sidewinder.


----------



## hy897t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PeaceMaker*


Exek, how did you get barbs on your pump?


Ha I was just going to ask the same thing.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

so, now I am gonna have to find 3 GTX 280 waterblocks...

I just bought a third GTX 280 from a member here, Tri-SLI here i come.


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Just finished a repaint. Also waiting on my EK supreme HF to come in.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bob808

List of wc gear-
Heatkiller 3.0 cpu clock
ek classified chipset full coverage chipset block
2x heatkiller 295 blocks
280mm black ice rad (internal, top)
120mm xspc rad (internal, bottom)
240mm xspc rad (external-back)
mp655 pump
swiftech microres
bitspower fittings (no 90's)
primoflex 5/8 od 7/16 id black tubing
dd fillport
drain line

Rest of components in system specs below. I wish i had a better camera- looks better irl

concept drawing










HK 3.0 and EK full coverage-



















HK 295



















x2



















res, pump, and bottom 120mm rad. I could easily put a 240 rad here but I kinda liked how I hid it behind sideways turned WD veliciraptor. Thinking I may switch it around so the 240 (currently on back) is down here and mount the 120 directly to the back (no shroud- fan on inside) Thought on this?










I ran the drain line off the input side of the bottom rad using a bitspower 3-way 'cube' and have a short drain line going toward the back side panel (cant really see it- like planned)










finished!


----------



## Khmor

I'm in,
mcp355
EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel
Swiftech MCR320-QP
XSPC Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bob808* 
List of wc gear-
Heatkiller 3.0 cpu clock
ek classified chipset full coverage chipset block
2x heatkiller 295 blocks
280mm black ice rad (internal, top)
120mm xspc rad (internal, bottom)
240mm xspc rad (external-back)
mp655 pump
swiftech microres
bitspower fittings (no 90's)
primoflex 5/8 od 7/16 id black tubing
dd fillport
drain line

Rest of components in system specs below. I wish i had a better camera- looks better irl










Dude that looks good "ifl = in fake life" also. Very nice









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Khmor* 
I'm in,
mcp355
EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel
Swiftech MCR320-QP
XSPC Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC










Lookin' good here too


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Kevin, this is post #3 for me.

Just built my Obsidian 800D rig. Got a new res in the mail so I will update when I install it. As for now, this is how the rig looks.


----------



## CD69Scorp

kevingreenbmx: Here's another update for my Sniper like you asked for. Thanks!!









By cd69scorp at 2010-06-30









By cd69scorp at 2010-06-30









By cd69scorp at 2010-06-30









By cd69scorp at 2010-06-30









By cd69scorp at 2010-07-01









By cd69scorp at 2010-07-01









By cd69scorp at 2010-07-01









By cd69scorp at 2010-06-30









By cd69scorp at 2010-06-30


----------



## KShirza1

this should get the sexiest dual pump reward


----------



## kevingreenbmx

riggs look awesome guys, very nice.

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
Got a new res in the mail so I will update when I install it.

would you by chance be selling the one you have? that is exactly what I want for Classy.


----------



## fastsite

heres mine i just finished
jingway dp-600 pump
cooler master 240mm rad
HeatKiller LT 3.0 775
i couldn't afford much but its awesome


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## !Lester!

tried banner










or


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *!Lester!* 
tried banner

thanks man! those look great!


----------



## doat

I think second one is better but both are fantastic, excellent work.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *!Lester!* 









or











Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
I think second one is better but both are fantastic, excellent work.

Agreed. My vote is for the second one also.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I agree, the second one is awesome.

I think we will use it for a while.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp* 
kevingreenbmx: Here's another update for my Sniper like you asked for. Thanks!!









By cd69scorp at 2010-06-30


Wow







Beautiful case, beautiful hardware, beautiful photography. I'm really digging the sniper case I've never seen it before.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Finally got a new desk lamp + white CFL bulbs







just need a tripod now or a make shift stand


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

looks good 88


----------



## windfire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Finally got a new desk lamp + white CFL bulbs







just need a tripod now or a make shift stand










Looks great!

May I make a suggestion?
Perhaps routing the power cables of the 2 cards to the front (as shown in red in the pic below) would offer an even better look?

I feel that with the cables on the top, they are blocking a great portion of the beautiful cooling blocks.


----------



## lwesley

A little background:

Last year, I had to construct a new PC. Weighing cost, performance and price, I settled on a i7 920 2.66ghz + GTX295 video card.

The graphic card had a fan/heatsink setup that ramped up during extensive usage and it sounded like a vacuum cleaner even though it was 2 meters away. The temps were high, 55c on idle and 91c on load. The noise got to me eventually. I needed a system to be fast and quiet (like a mac ). I started research on water cooling a year back in Sept09.

With great advice from folks at OCF, RRTech & XS (esp Conumdrum, Spawn & Red), I took the plunge in April this year. Got MCR320 Drives that's a 3 in 1 system that included pump, radiator and reservoir. It was a simple setup for a newbie.

My current Lian Li case is way too small for the wc stuff.







It's a bit of a Frankenstein setup but it's good for testing and learning. I will be looking into making a custom case in about 6 months.

Current temperature for CPU on load is on low 60s (10c difference from air cooling). GPU is running at 40c idle (~20c difference). I haven't had to the chance to test it on BFBC2.

Best thing is that the system is way quieter than the old one.

Details:
Watercool.de HK 1366 water block (this waterblock doesn't take kindly to 1/2 compressions, even the 45 all in one rotaries. Found out too late an used a barb on the inlet)
EK GTX295 Single PCB water block
MCR320 Drive
1/2id 3/4od Primochill tubes
Mix of Bitspower compressions and barbs


----------



## !Lester!

Awesome rigs guys ^_^
I'll be posting mine soon, gonna upgrade it first


----------



## dafour

Pretty amazing setups in this thread,i know where my next money wil go to


----------



## Rian

Update:


----------



## !Lester!

last banner variation


----------



## austinb324

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lwesley* 
A little background:

Last year, I had to construct a new PC. Weighing cost, performance and price, I settled on a i7 920 2.66ghz + GTX295 video card.

The graphic card had a fan/heatsink setup that ramped up during extensive usage and it sounded like a vacuum cleaner even though it was 2 meters away. The temps were high, 55c on idle and 91c on load. The noise got to me eventually. I needed a system to be fast and quiet (like a mac ). I started research on water cooling a year back in Sept09.

With great advice from folks at OCF, RRTech & XS (esp Conumdrum, Spawn & Red), I took the plunge in April this year. Got MCR320 Drives that's a 3 in 1 system that included pump, radiator and reservoir. It was a simple setup for a newbie.

My current Lian Li case is way too small for the wc stuff.







It's a bit of a Frankenstein setup but it's good for testing and learning. I will be looking into making a custom case in about 6 months.

Current temperature for CPU on load is on low 60s (10c difference from air cooling). GPU is running at 40c idle (~20c difference). I haven't had to the chance to test it on BFBC2.

Best thing is that the system is way quieter than the old one.

Details:
Watercool.de HK 1366 water block (this waterblock doesn't take kindly to 1/2 compressions, even the 45 all in one rotaries. Found out too late an used a barb on the inlet)
EK GTX295 Single PCB water block
MCR320 Drive
1/2id 3/4od Primochill tubes
Mix of Bitspower compressions and barbs









you need fan grills since your rads are just sitting outside of the case. Bad things can and will happen to fingers! here


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I cant run the cables through the front because they will not reach, so the ONLY option is the way I have them.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## lwesley

Quote:


Originally Posted by *austinb324* 







you need fan grills since your rads are just sitting outside of the case. Bad things can and will happen to fingers! here


I hear you man. Thanks!

Wes


----------



## soda480

Update:
















Youtube video:







YouTube- Corsair Obsidian 800D Water Cooled Rev. 3


----------



## v1ral

That is a nice build Soda!!!
Good job.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soda480* 
Update:
















Youtube video:
YouTube- Corsair Obsidian 800D Water Cooled Rev. 3

Nice. Haven't seen an actual build with the dual pump top yet. Looking good


----------



## ny_driver

I decided to move out of the cramped life inside a case.

Here are the pictures of the new rig. I'm happy with the way it came out.

In the first picture you can see the eye-level view of the reservoir which is the highest point in the loop, making it very easy to remove all the air in the system.

In the second picture you see an aerial view of the system. The voltage measurement points are nice and easy, so long as you don't block them with anything.

And in the third picture I am sitting right in front of the A/C looking at the backside of the system. That 140mm fan is helping out a lot.

I hope you enjoy the pictures.

EDIT: I gotta get me some of these fancy compression fittings. They look nice everyone


----------



## FiX

Hey guys,







YouTube- Water Cooling Testing 
Not water cooling yet, just testing out some of my parts


----------



## jacobthellamer

Add me


----------



## Bodycount

Jacob, What cpu block is that?


----------



## smartasien

looks like ek supreme lt
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/...afbf87f0c6.jpg


----------



## Yogi

Finally got my loop together, but I dont think my gpu block is seated right. Still a 30c drop though
5 min Furmark - 975/1225 @ 1.25v

15 min large FFT


----------



## caraboose

Got the GPU loop installed:


----------



## ny_driver

Check this out...........Hottest day of the year so far.









I just extended the radiator hoses today.....and in the winter I will extend them right out the window.







I can't wait.

I've added a picture showing my idle temps.

EDIT: I just haven't figured out how I will attach the radiator to the A/C yet. Please forgive me.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Finally got my loop together, but I dont think my gpu block is seated right. Still a 30c drop though
5 min Furmark - 975/1225 @ 1.25v

15 min large FFT
[IMG]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Is that 30c gpu temp drop idle or stressed?

Quote:
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD]

Originally Posted by [B]caraboose[/B]
[URL=showthread.php?s=d0fcea543db45214df9417cadf870bcb&p=9906836#post9906836][IMG alt="View Post"]http://static.overclock.net//img/forum/go_quote.gif[/URL]

Got the GPU loop installed:


[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Looks really awesome, too much loop in there [IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Check this out...........Hottest day of the year so far.









I just extended the radiator hoses today.....and in the winter I will extend them right out the window.







I can't wait.

I've added a picture showing my idle temps.


Thats sick, wish my temps were that good...


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*


Is that 30c gpu temp drop idle or stressed?


Stressed


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:

The text that you have entered is too long (90077 characters). Please shorten it to 90000 characters long.
we have done it.

we have broken the site's limit with the list.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
we have done it.

we have broken the site's limit with the list.











It's a big club. Only thing you can do now is PM the user in the second post and see if you can grab the spot then have a mod change it to yours Kevin.

Edit: Make that the 4th post, lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoGuru* 









It's a big club. Only thing you can do now is PM the user in the second post and see if you can grab the spot then have a mod change it to yours Kevin.

Edit: Make that the 4th post, lol.

yea, the big thing is that this is just gonna make it a pain to update because peoples repeat posts will be split between two lists.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Hey kev, just to make things a little more annoying, you've got me listed twice in the members list







Numbers 60 and 209.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Hey kev, just to make things a little more annoying, you've got me listed twice in the members list







Numbers 60 and 209.


uhg...

that is not gonna be fun to fix...

I think it may be time for an overhaul of the way I have things set up. I will have to think about what i want to do...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


uhg...

that is not gonna be fun to fix...

I think it may be time for an overhaul of the way I have things set up. I will have to think about what i want to do...


Would using an embedded spreadsheet be easier perhaps? I know that quite a few other clubs use this same method.


----------



## Yogi

I blame bundymania


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Tbh, remove 99% of bundy's posts. He didn't bother to follow the rules most of the time so no sense in keeping the posts that didn't follow the rules. Would clear up quite a lot of space for sure.


----------



## Yogi

Got a pic of my blocks earlier


----------



## WTHbot

Soooo pretty. . .


----------



## JE Nightmare

Damn, almost makes me want black tubing.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mcpetrolhead

I got my Reservoir in today.


























Huge improvement over my first WC setup. I have done some cable management and cleaned up the tubing.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## oliverw92

Yeah i vote to remove all of bundy's links except for one.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Yeah i vote to remove all of bundy's links except for one.


I have a plan for what I am going to do, i just need to find time to do it.


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Jacob, What cpu block is that?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *smartasien*


looks like ek supreme lt
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/...afbf87f0c6.jpg


Correct


----------



## losttsol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcpetrolhead*


I got my Reservoir in today.


























Huge improvement over my first WC setup. I have done some cable management and cleaned up the tubing.


Love the PVC, I hope it's schedule 80. Double bay reservoirs rule, here's mine...










Might have to switch to blue liquid, I'm kind of digging yours.


----------



## Billy O

My first WC setup. Finally done with cable management, UV lights in.


----------



## SimpleTech

Was digging up some old pictures from previous builds and found some:



















More pictures can be found here.

And yes that is my shoe.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


I have a plan for what I am going to do, i just need to find time to do it.


Anything I can help with? I have a bit of spare time on my hands atm and don't mind helping out.


----------



## vanilla_eitz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *losttsol* 
Love the PVC, I hope it's schedule 80.

White = sch. 40 Dark grey = sch. 80

Sch. 40 fittings should be overkill for PC water cooling.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Anything I can help with? I have a bit of spare time on my hands atm and don't mind helping out.

As fast as this thread moves, I'm sure he could use some. +rep


----------



## mcpetrolhead

Yeah PVC 40, I was going to paint it but i always prioritized cooling before looks.

Yeah i like my dual bay res, i plan on getting some black vinyl for the front and making a small window, that way you can see the water but not the glue.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

alright, before anything actually related to this thread i need to get this out of my system:

TRI-SLI FTW!!!!!!!!!!! [email protected]#$ YEA!!! THIS IS AWESOME!

alright, moving on now:

Updated.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Anything I can help with? I have a bit of spare time on my hands atm and don't mind helping out.


Krissy, if you really feel like you would like to help out a bit I do have some stuff you could do. PM me if you are bored enough. ;-)

also, I really appreciate all the support for this thread guys (and girls). you all really make it worth the effort.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


alright, before anything actually related to this thread i need to get this out of my system:

TRI-SLI FTW!!!!!!!!!!! [email protected]#$ YEA!!! THIS IS AWESOME!

alright, moving on now:

Updated.

Krissy, if you really feel like you would like to help out a bit I do have some stuff you could do. PM me if you are bored enough. ;-)

also, I really appreciate all the support for this thread guys (and girls). you all really make it worth the effort. 


Okay, now send 2 of the 3 cards to me








Or install folding at home on them and get some points for OCN!!

If you need more help just send me a pm







I can always make some time to help you out


----------



## Freakn

I don't contribute much to this thread but it is the first thread I look for updates in, spend more time here than anywhere for sure....

I will be posting my own rig here hopefully in the next couple of months.

More than willing to help if there's something I can do


----------



## Exek

Here is some updates from my previous post.









EK Supreme HF and Top for MCP655 installed.


----------



## FalloutBoy

Love the pics Exek. Everything looks so clean and fresh. I can almost smell that new plasticy hardware smell...


----------



## airplaneman

Here is my setup:

MCP655
TFC X-Changer 480
Enzotech Sapphire
Enzotech Sapphire SCW-Rev.A
Koolance AR597 Rev 2.0
FrozenQ T-Virus Res


----------



## Exek

Awesome build airplaneman! I like the color scheme.








You can also hide this tiny cables on the right side, near 5.25 bays.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Exek*


Awesome build airplaneman! I like the color scheme.








You can also hide this tiny cables on the right side, near 5.25 bays.


Which one? The one in my CD drive or the random one which is actually a zip-tie?

Thanks!


----------



## Exek

The one is going to the small blue thing and 2 whites, but it's just me.
You cant see them with panel attached anyway.


----------



## Willhemmens

Since I last updated, I've added a GPU block, some compression fittings and Thermochill Tubing from WCUK.

I'm planning on getting more compression fittings for everything else once I have the funds.

I've never used Tygon but from what I can tell is this Thermochill tubing is as good or better, its very soft and bends extremely well.

Heres a comparison of the original Masterkleer tubing, Reinforced tubing and the Thermochill tubing:










The thick walls really seem too help.

So heres some photo's of the updates:









Warrenty sticker was broke when I bought it.

































Thanks again kevingreenbmx!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated.

Krissy and I are working on a new layout and updating system.

Anyone know how to embed multiple hyper-links in a single cell in Google documents?


----------



## [AK]Blak-Hawk

Just "Finished" it. haha I dont know what ill do next. Probably refine cable management. The radiators and pumps etc are on the other side. ill have to post pics later.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## [AK]Blak-Hawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated


Thank you =D That sure was quick!


----------



## smartasien

wow that Thermochill tubing is massive! looks even thicker than 3/4 inch od.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smartasien*


wow that Thermochill tubing is massive! looks even thicker than 3/4 inch od.


Yeah it is really big, I'm in love. Just fits in my 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Compression fittings. Very highly recommended! Also its around a third of the price of Tygon.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

If anyone else is willing to volunteer some time to rebuilding the list please PM me.

this is going to be annoying as hell...


----------



## oliverw92

I can write you a PHP script that can format it all for you. How do you need it rebuilt?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I can write you a PHP script that can format it all for you. How do you need it rebuilt?

well, I am trying to move it all into a google spreadsheet...

so I have to copy and paste 392 member's names and links...


----------



## antipesto93

hey, i had no idea this thread existed!
here is my setup (Budget loop, cost 100 pounds in total)
Antec 1200 is not the easiest WC case!

i7-920 @ 4.0ghz 40c idle 60c load ( 30c ambient)
i am pretty scared of it leaking! - What are the changes of it leaking if i has not leaked in the first 2 weeks?

























Also can anyone tell me exactly what EK supreme this is?


----------



## yutzybrian

It appears to be the original EK Supreme with the delrin top. From what I found the original came with 4 different style tops: delrin (standard black top), plexi (transparent top), copper (solid copper top) and a Limited Edition gold that uses a gold-plated copper top.


----------



## smex

hereÂ´s mine..


----------



## wermad

New mobo, sans nb & vreg blocks, its 99% complete


----------



## KillerBeaz

very nice wermad, i absolutely love that case, what kinda temps you getting?


----------



## wermad

Thanks, have yet to run stability but temps are excellent
cpu stock 3.2: idle 19C
@ 4.0 1.425v: idle 21C

gpu: idle 4870x2: 31C & 30C, 4870: 35C

will run prime for a couple of hours and check for temps. This case is huge, we just had a good 5.7 earthquake, so Im searching for some nice casters w/ brakes.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *antipesto93* 
hey, i had no idea this thread existed!
here is my setup (Budget loop, cost 100 pounds in total)
Antec 1200 is not the easiest WC case!

i7-920 @ 4.0ghz 40c idle 60c load ( 30c ambient)
i am pretty scared of it leaking! - What are the changes of it leaking if i has not leaked in the first 2 weeks?

Also can anyone tell me exactly what EK supreme this is?

As long as you monitor your system carefully, leaks generally don't happen. Every so often, run your fingers around each of the barbs just to check if you're worried. Small leaks aren't really an issue unless you never catch them and they end up corroding your parts (would take quite a while for that). If you do find that there has been a like on say your video card, get some isopropyl alcohol and clean it off and it will be fine


----------



## wermad

just ran prime for an hour, I planned a two hour stint and left it on its own, checked back after an hour and had a windows recovery message, it bsod. Might be voltage, will up it a bit more and gun it for two hours w/ out issues







. For the one hour it ran the cpu @ 4.0 max temp was 29C, both cores running 100% load. Very impressed w/ this cpu.


----------



## ny_driver

So I extended my radiator hoses so the radiator sits right in front of the A/C. Today I am noticing some condensation on the inside of my reservoir...must be because the water is colder than the air.

Anyways I was planning to extend my radiator hoses right out the window in the winter time. Now I'm thinking I will have to deal with condensation all over my hoses and everywhere.

Anyone ever try pumping ice-water through their loop? Is there a way to beat the condensation?

EDIT: how do you get the air out of an upside down radiator?...............Turn it right side up and make it the lowest point in the loop, and the reservoir the highest, for burping purposes.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
So I extended my radiator hoses so the radiator sits right in front of the A/C. Today I am noticing some condensation on the inside of my reservoir...must be because the water is colder than the air.

Anyways I was planning to extend my radiator hoses right out the window in the winter time. Now I'm thinking I will have to deal with condensation all over my hoses and everywhere.

Anyone ever try pumping ice-water through their loop? Is there a way to beat the condensation?

if the condensation is inside your res it is not from the water being cold, that just happens.

if it is on the OUTSIDE then you need to worry


----------



## ny_driver

ok well it is on the inside....pretty humid today so maybe that's it(I have the cap off)....but I'm thinking it will be on the outside when I start pumping ice water through there.

But I really want to do it.









EDIT: I was working in Norfolk Monday and Tuesday on Azalia Garden Road @ AT&T. Way too HOT down there for me!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

who here knows how to put a Google spreadsheet into a post?

edit:

also, thanks to some good work by Spider there is now a new "award winners" section in the first post.


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

well i know all i did was a video but i thought id take some pics =)

enjoy..


















custom side panel from bill owens ftw!btw all the lights are white looks blue from the camera


----------



## kevingreenbmx

looks amazing Rud3Bwoy

fun fact: you are the first person I have updated in the new list as well as the old one.


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


looks amazing Rud3Bwoy

fun fact: you are the first person I have updated in the new list as well as the old one. 


hey i got a question your HK how do u tighten the block with what kinda allen key?or any other way i can tighten it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy*


hey i got a question your HK how do u tighten the block with what kinda allen key?or any other way i can tighten it


I use the key it came with, but any 3mm key should work


----------



## spiderm0nkey

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0Ap9Dode9am9cdG11RnFTdVJqZWFucUJxUHhIdmM5RFE Google Spreadsheet

Just a test for now


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
So I extended my radiator hoses so the radiator sits right in front of the A/C. Today I am noticing some condensation on the inside of my reservoir...must be because the water is colder than the air.

Anyways I was planning to extend my radiator hoses right out the window in the winter time. Now I'm thinking I will have to deal with condensation all over my hoses and everywhere.

Anyone ever try pumping ice-water through their loop? Is there a way to beat the condensation?

EDIT: how do you get the air out of an upside down radiator?...............Turn it right side up and make it the lowest point in the loop, and the reservoir the highest, for burping purposes.


look at my pics i just posted

my res also have condensation it is very normal

i had this after a few days of having the rig,nothing major tho it happens


----------



## ny_driver

I guess I never noticed it before.

Here just for kicks, look at my current idle temps...........and I just ran 5 runs of Intel Burn Test/Maximum Stress and only hit 47c.









I look forward to cold weather so I can put the radiator outside and shut off the A/C


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


I guess I never noticed it before.

Here just for kicks, look at my current idle temps...........and I just ran 5 runs of Intel Burn Test/Maximum Stress and only hit 47c.









I look forward to cold weather so I can put the radiator outside and shut off the A/C


We did some ice water stuff with a 1055T, ambient was around 17'c and had no issues with condensation.

Heres a link to the thread: Chilled water + AMD 1055T


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
OCN Water Cooling Club Member List

Just a test for now









well, that is progress, now we need to figure out how to adjust the height and width.

thanks spider!

edit: hmm... it does not work in a quote...


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


We did some ice water stuff with a 1055T, ambient was around 17'c and had no issues with condensation.

Heres a link to the thread: Chilled water + AMD 1055T



Interesting....how long did you run that without seeing condensation, and @ what approximate ambient temp?

EDIT: I think I'll try the bucket of ice water later on today/tonight.....I'll report back later. Thanks for the idea.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Interesting....how long did you run that without seeing condensation, and @ what approximate ambient temp?

EDIT: I think I'll try the bucket of ice water later on today/tonight.....I'll report back later. Thanks for the idea.









We ran like that for a good 2-3 hours with no issues with a ruffly 17'c ambient temp, weather was just sort of ok, not rain or sun.

Its good fun, we found that using a cool box kept the water cold for ages.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
well, that is progress, now we need to figure out how to adjust the height and width.

thanks spider!

edit: hmm... it does not work in a quote...

Here's some to give you an idea. This is from my AMD 700 series club.

Code:



Code:


"http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=rH3NgyH1WmOs7zJeVmNvGCQ&w=160&h=2300"

By changing the "w=160&h=2300", you change the H&W.

So this is how it looks in the 700 series club, just without the *'s.

[*url="http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=rH3NgyH1WmOs7zJeVmNvGCQ&w=160&h=2300"].[/url*]

Note the . before [/url*] needs too be there for some reason to make it work, havent done any of these spread sheets in awhile.


----------



## james...

Here ya go boys.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Called the RePuBLiC oF KaRLiToS, my first watercooling rig took me around 3-4 months to build, this including all the planning,researches and building

Water Loop
-Feser 360 and 240
-Dual MCP 655 Pumps With dual top
-HeatKiller 3.0 CPU
-EK FC 5850 Acrylic GPUx2
-EK RE3 Full water Block

*Reservoir* --> Dual MCP 655 --> 360 Rad --> CPU --> MOBO --> 240 Rad --> GPU-GPU--> *Back To Reservoir*





































Dual Pumps in Serial




































































































Bottom Radiator Rad Grill with magnet Dust filter


----------



## NoGuru

Nice job Karlitos!


----------



## airplaneman

Nice work man! Quick question, what tubing is that and does it actually glow red under UV light, or is it orange?


----------



## KaRLiToS

its UV Red from Feser...I dont know if it glows red under UV Light.

Should I buy Cold cathods Black Light or UV Red to make it looks better?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS* 
its UV Red from Feser...I dont know if it glows red under UV Light.

Should I buy Cold cathods Black Light or UV Red to make it looks better?

Well if your tubing is like mine, then it'll glow orange under UV light, which I hate. Cathodes are cheap, I'd just buy one of each and see which you like better.


----------



## Warfarin88

Love that res mount KShirza1.









Our house has a second rig under water. Here's my wife's new Lian Li A70F, called Blue Moon:























































Two loop system: Swiftech pumps (with EK tops), HWLabs 140mm GTS280 rads, Noiseblocker XK-2 fans, EK blocks, primochill tubing, Enzotech and BP fittings.

The whole log can be viewed in the OCN Case Modding Competition 2010 Forum.

_*Tons*_ of great stuff in this years contest folks. If you haven't checked it out yet, you're missing out.


----------



## Swiftes

Warfarin: Nice, and I see what you did there


----------



## KaRLiToS

@Warfarin88
Thats it a really nice setup, very professionnal, one the most professionnal one i've seen, you must have spent a lot of time in that build?

Good Job









EDIT: ThE EK Backplate is awsome


----------



## yutzybrian

@Warfarin

I was just looking at you worklog yesterday. Excellent job and very sexy case. One question though, where do I order one of those expansion-card hold down doo-hicky-mathingys?


----------



## Yogi

Warfarin thats an awesome build if I do say so myself









Finally got my rig back together, but the camera is broken so I can't get pics up right now


----------



## Salvo210

Still have some upgrading to do. Plan on gettin an ek plexi/nickel block for my 5970 and a 360 rad on top for it. o yeah waiting on some 1/2" ID Nickel EK PSC compression fittings...among other things


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Hey kev, check out this link. It has the info on changing width and height. I couldn't get it working last night and didn't have time to play around further as I had work.
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...your-post.html


----------



## Warfarin88

Thanks for the comments folks









Quote:


Originally Posted by *yutzybrian* 
... where do I order one of those expansion-card hold down doo-hicky-mathingys?









Mine came with the case, but check here:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...30_210_750_759

scroll down a bit, they have them in aluminum, red, or black. They actually work quite well.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Hey kev, check out this link. It has the info on changing width and height. I couldn't get it working last night and didn't have time to play around further as I had work.
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...your-post.html

Zodac sent me that link and i was able to figure it out. 

thanks again!

now we just have to copy all this stuff over... :-(


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Salvo210* 









Still have some upgrading to do. Plan on gettin an ek plexi/nickel block for my 5970 and a 360 rad on top for it. o yeah waiting on some 1/2" ID Nickel EK PSC compression fittings...among other things









Smallest. Loop. Ever. Seriously, you must have only like 14" of tubing there ha ha.

Looks good man.


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Smallest. Loop. Ever. Seriously, you must have only like 14" of tubing there ha ha.

Looks good man.

Agreed!










+







to Salvo


----------



## Machiyariko

I'm in with my first WCing setup.

Simple setup with an:
Apogee XT
360 Swiftech MCR320-DRIVE
Bitspower Water Tank Z


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Smallest. Loop. Ever. Seriously, you must have only like 14" of tubing there ha ha.

Looks good man.

Guess you haven't seen KShirza's build.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *KShirza1* 
update





Kevin, the link to Shirza's post on the first page goes to some other post.

Just loaded both CPU and GPU with 43c on the CPU and 40c on the GPU. Me likey


----------



## windfire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Salvo210* 

Still have some upgrading to do. Plan on gettin an ek plexi/nickel block for my 5970 and a 360 rad on top for it. o yeah waiting on some 1/2" ID Nickel EK PSC compression fittings...among other things










May I suggest one tiny aesthetics improvement?
Instead of going underneath the 'motherboard tray', route the little blue wire underneath the motherboard. (see pic below - the dotted blue)

This hides a longer portion of the cable, especially the cable is blue (which does not match your black/red theme).

BTW, that connector is the CPU_fan. Why is it only one single blue cable? What is it for exactly?


----------



## Yogi

The wire is for the pump


----------



## just_nuke_em

Someone sign me up for this club.


















Turned it on like 10 minutes ago. Running nice and cool sub 30's.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Finished my loop today, leak tested for 6 hours and in the process of running prime95 for some hours. By the looks of it, sitting at 29-30 idle and 45-47 load. huge improvement over that junk heatsink i just got rid of.

Ended up getting the heatkiller lc instead of lt to save a few bucks.









The business side of the xspc x20 750 and the top part of the swiftech mcp120 qp.









finally, the front. for a small case i'm happy with everything i've fit into it.









( i cleaned the front after i took the picture, no more finger prints. )


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Machiyariko* 
I'm in with my first WCing setup.

Simple setup with an:
Apogee XT
360 Swiftech MCR320-DRIVE
Bitspower Water Tank Z

]

 what r those fans? how tick n whats cfm/db? lol their hella thick


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
 what r those fans? how tick n whats cfm/db? lol their hella thick

Pretty sure they are Feser Triebwerk 120's.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

still looking for volunteers to help move from the old list to the new


----------



## Satogd

ss


----------



## newpc

add me to the list yo









parts are oh the way, so excited

half my stuff, others are from a diff site







. and still need to order a 480 rad stand


















omg nooooooo!!! didnt realize i got freakin green led's!!!,
gah time for a mod then


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newpc* 
add me to the list yo









parts are oh the way, so excited

half my stuff, others are from a diff site







. and still need to order a 480 rad stand









*snip*

omg nooooooo!!! didnt realize i got freakin green led's!!!,
gah time for a mod then

how about a deal, I will add you when you get your parts and can show us some pics. ;-)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

everyone please give massive props to JE Nightmare.

He just single handedly knocked out almost a quarter of the move from the old list to the new.

(Que OCN round of applause)


----------



## JE Nightmare

I'm hoping to have another 100 finished in the next hour and a half or so.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
I'm hoping to have another 100 finished in the next hour and a half or so.









Sweet! Rep+


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
 what r those fans? how tick n whats cfm/db? lol their hella thick

Those has an intergrated shroud in them to increase performance without costing you a nice finish.

Those fans are specifically made for radiators too.

Edit:
Not sure if I qualify for this club. . .









H50 haha.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

more props to JE Nightmare

he is almost half the way through the list!

all please take a moment to bow down to the god of copying and pasting.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Not sure if I qualify for this club. . .

you most certainly do.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
more props to JE Nightmare

he is almost half the way through the list!

all please take a moment to bow down to the god of copying and pasting.

you most certainly do.









Haha! cool.

I'm gonna go for a full set up eventually, but I wanted the H50 for a good cooler now and a good back up later.


----------



## Satogd

just a work in progress


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

also, Freakn is now working on moving the list over as well. 

thanks for the help guys!

(I hope people are showing their appreciation to out volunteers) ;-)


----------



## Freakn

Were up to about 250 now, after a bit of help from Kevin with my editing.

Hopefully get a fair bit more done today


----------



## JE Nightmare

I'll be back at my computer in about an hour and a half and whatever's left i'll finish tonight. I'm oddly excited to do this for some reason lol. Try to save me a hundred or so.


----------



## Freakn

We've basically only got a hundred to go and got a bit of a roll going, might not be any left JE


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

we should make a video gallery =)

for everyone who has videos of there rigs


----------



## JE Nightmare

aww, no more fun for me tonight then haha.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
aww, no more fun for me tonight then haha.

there are still links to copy...


----------



## Freakn

Time for a break for 10min,


----------



## Freakn

I think were done for a while by the looks of things


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Done!


----------



## ira-k

Looking great you all. Thank You for all the hard work you've one!


----------



## Freakn

It was a couple of hours well spent, even though I'm not in the list myself, I visit this site on a regular basis.

Glad to help Kevin out a a great thread


----------



## JE Nightmare

Same, it was a pleasure doing what i did and i don't mind helping him or anyone else out with the same thing again.


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## WTHbot

I love the embedded list makes everything so much neater.


----------



## R00ST3R

Going to add some pics with the lighting. My camara takes really poor pics of the lights, so sorry about that. Also finally installed the pump mod kit and top.









Yea, I know...the San Aces I added to the external rad really need a good cleaning. As does the top grill.









I added this pic despite the poor quality. It shows the res (up in the top right corner) glowing purple, which of course looks much better in person







.









Clearest pic I could take. Thanks for viewing







.


----------



## Oli4v

New fittings, tubing, other ram (corsair Dominator 1066 4*1GB), a red HD4870, and my almost 2j old 4870 block nickelplated


----------



## Yogi

Awesome job guys with the new list. +reps

I should have completed pics of my build on Tuesday.


----------



## FalloutBoy

So I offer to help just before I go to bed last night, wake up today and the job is done.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy* 
So I offer to help just before I go to bed last night, wake up today and the job is done.









That's how we do.


----------



## Freakn

Must say Kevin, the new setup does look alot more organised.


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
That's how we do.









Certainly made my life easier! Did a damn good job too.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

It really does look a hell of a lot better. I was trying to add in a few more posts 2 days ago but in the end it stopped working for me and the links wouldn't turn into links so I gave up. Guess you other guys didn't have that issue since you managed to get it done so quick







Good work to everyone involved!


----------



## danding




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Going to add some pics with the lighting

hey R00ST3R, can you go through all the posts of yours in the list and make sure they are all right and all yours?

you had 3 separate entries in the old list spread all over the place...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy* 
So I offer to help just before I go to bed last night, wake up today and the job is done.









we got in a groove and just powered through it. Thanks for being willing to help though!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
It really does look a hell of a lot better. I was trying to add in a few more posts 2 days ago but in the end it stopped working for me and the links wouldn't turn into links so I gave up. Guess you other guys didn't have that issue since you managed to get it done so quick







Good work to everyone involved!

everyone else had problems with that too, but i figured out a way to make them all work so it didn't matter as long as they were typed in.

thanks again for your help!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated!

hey R00ST3R, can you go through all the posts of yours in the list and make sure they are all right and all yours?

you had 3 separate entries in the old list spread all over the place...

Roger that. Will do.

Well, every link except that last one just sends me to the last page of the thread. As do many links, from many other users' posts.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Roger that. Will do.

Well, every link except that last one just sends me to the last page of the thread. As do many links, from many other users' posts.

uhg...


----------



## jackal22

My rig


----------



## Chicken Patty

and I was just looking at that last night, this is making me hit the "buy" button really soon if I keep looking at it


----------



## rzs77

My NOOB RV02, watercooled by *EK Supreme HF Full Nickel Block, EK DCP 4.0 Pump, Swiftech MCR 320 radiator, Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2 Reservoir, 1x Bitspower Triple Rotary 90 Degree Compression Fitting 1/2 id, 2x 45 Degree Rotary Adapter, 2x Compression Fittings, 1x 45 Degree Compression Fitting and Black Feeser 1/2" id Tubing*...do comment as this is my 1st custom loop


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Roger that. Will do.

Well, every link except that last one just sends me to the last page of the thread. As do many links, from many other users' posts.

I'm pretty sure from memory you had 2 entires on the original list of Kevin's, that would explain why your entries are out of order.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey R00ST3R, I just went through your links and they work fine for me. you said all but the last one takes you to the last page of the thread?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

hey R00ST3R, I just went through your links and they work fine for me. you said all but the last one takes you to the last page of the thread?

Yeah, i looked at this and randomly picked out 50 or so other links and they all work. Not sure how he is having that problem.


----------



## Freakn

Looks like we all did the same thing, all worked for me aswell


----------



## Chicken Patty

That raven looks sexy


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

hey R00ST3R, I just went through your links and they work fine for me. you said all but the last one takes you to the last page of the thread?

Yea, I tried Wermads links also, just sends me to last page. I have no idea what's going on. No biggie on my end. I should not have 8 posts of pics though.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Yea, I tried Wermads links also, just sends me to last page. I have no idea what's going on. No biggie on my end. I should not have 8 posts of pics though.

The type of link that we have used for each person's post is a permalink, which will direct you to the last page of the thread first, then jump back to the correct page with the post on it. Sometimes you'll only get as far as the last page and it won't actually end up moving to the correct page. I personally prefer using the post numbers as the link as it opens up just that post on the page. Doesn't have to search through the thread to find the correct one. It's a direct link to the post that you're after


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Yea, I tried Wermads links also, just sends me to last page. I have no idea what's going on. No biggie on my end. I should not have 8 posts of pics though.

One of your posts was to show your external rad. ( post 5 ) the rest are all updates of your setup.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Yea, I tried Wermads links also, just sends me to last page. I have no idea what's going on. No biggie on my end. I should not have 8 posts of pics though.

I just opened up all of your posts and compared them and they are all working and all separate posts.









you probably just did not realize you had posted pics that many times.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
The type of link that we have used for each person's post is a permalink, which will direct you to the last page of the thread first, then jump back to the correct page with the post on it. Sometimes you'll only get as far as the last page and it won't actually end up moving to the correct page. I personally prefer using the post numbers as the link as it opens up just that post on the page. Doesn't have to search through the thread to find the correct one. It's a direct link to the post that you're after









Like I said, no biggie to me. Guess my browser just won't go past that last page part is all







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I just opened up all of your posts and compared them and they are all working and all separate posts.









you probably just did not realize you had posted pics that many times. 

Cool, I'll take your word for it







. I figured maybe I had 3-4 posts total, multiple pics per post though. It's all good guys, sounds like it's on my end. I'll try to get it figured out.


----------



## newpc

now i can join









it looks really crap atm, no case







and have a bit of a problem atm lol.

link to thread


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
That raven looks sexy









Thank you









Any pointers? Am i getting the orientation right?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Thank you









Any pointers? Am i getting the orientation right?

Dude what post was your rig in? I can't find it anymore????


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Dude what post was your rig in? I can't find it anymore????









http://www.overclock.net/9971463-post2983.html


----------



## Midnite8

Is the MCP 350 pump supposed to be kinda loud? Im not sure how loud it is supposed to be because I just filled my xspc dual bay res and checked for any leakings.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
http://www.overclock.net/9971463-post2983.html

How are your temps? Looks fine to me bro







Thanks for the link.


----------



## slayerzav

Finally decided to take pics of my rig.


----------



## slayerzav

Sorry for being a noob at uploading pics. I dont know how else to do it.


----------



## slayerzav

..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

haha, next time use imageshack or something and use the tag

updated


----------



## slayerzav

..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

how do you like that pistol grip contraption that I forget the name of?


----------



## slayerzav

I enjoy it, its called the Novint Falcon. They are giving away some good deals on it recently.


----------



## eXz

My Rig;

Computer Specs:

Intel Core i7 920 D0 @ 4.2Ghz
Rampage 3 Extreme Mobo
6GB 2000Mhz Corsair Dominator RAM
Geforce GTX 480 @ 875 Core Clock, 2000Mhz Memory
Koolance GTX 480 Waterblock
2x80 Intel X-25M
Swiftech Apogee XT
Swiftech 655 Pump
Swiftech Res (Dont recommend)
Swiftech MCR220
Corsair HX1000
Bitspower Compression Fittings
Primoflex 10ft UV Blue Tubing
Feser One UV Blue Liquid


----------



## R00ST3R

Loving the blue themed rigs fellas!


----------



## Midnite8

Add me to this club finally


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Midnite8* 
Add me to this club finally

















looks neat pics with lights on?


----------



## Midnite8

What lights? Lol I have 2 12' UV cathodes


----------



## JE Nightmare

lol i think he means your room lights so he can get a better look at the inside of your computer.


----------



## Midnite8

Lol







I knew what he meant but it's still at night right now and I used my camera phone so I will wait till tomorrow to get my real camera


----------



## JE Nightmare

haha, guess i fail at detecting sarcasm


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
How are your temps? Looks fine to me bro







Thanks for the link.

Thanks bro...Temps are awesome! I'm running 32c idle and ~48-49c on load and this is 1.488V!

Does anybody have any ideas on what other colors would be nice to go with the black and red? I currently have 2x13cm ccfl in there. Would 2 more be too bright? what about mixing the red and some blue? I feel like something is missing


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Thanks bro...Temps are awesome! I'm running 32c idle and ~48-49c on load and this is 1.488V!

Does anybody have any ideas on what other colors would be nice to go with the black and red? I currently have 2x13cm ccfl in there. Would 2 more be too bright? what about mixing the red and some blue? I feel like something is missing









I like how red/blue blend with each other. I have a blue rear LED fan in my case right now and a red one up top, looks kinda neat


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I like how red/blue blend with each other. I have a blue rear LED fan in my case right now and a red one up top, looks kinda neat









I'm liking the idea of red and blue blending together but i still would need to see some pics. U got any bro?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## InfernoUk

hey guys how is the colour done in the rig on the logo in the first post? the red, as im re doing mine and want that type of effect/result red tubing always looks orange under UV. thanks !


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *InfernoUk* 
hey guys how is the colour done in the rig on the logo in the first post? the red, as im re doing mine and want that type of effect/result red tubing always looks orange under UV. thanks !

It is done using clear tubing and Red coolant








YouTube- Bloody Red Update

Feser One UV Red Liquid plus Primochill Bloody Red
Tygon Tubes 11.2/15.9

Thats what he is rocking.


----------



## InfernoUk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vermillion* 
It is done using clear tubing and Red coolant

YouTube- Bloody Red Update

Feser One UV Red Liquid plus Primochill Bloody Red
Tygon Tubes 11.2/15.9

Thats what he is rocking.

thanks, so 2 coolants are used? or you mean either?

im limited to feser tubing due to the place i order from aswell : /

http://www.scan.co.uk/Shop/Computer-...g-Fluid/Tubing

here


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *InfernoUk* 
thanks, so 2 coolants are used? or you mean either?

im limited to feser tubing due to the place i order from aswell : /

http://www.scan.co.uk/Shop/Computer-...g-Fluid/Tubing

here

No, one is a coolant the other is a dye.


----------



## InfernoUk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
No, one is a coolant the other is a dye.

o, ok as stated i can only get hold of the tube and coolant from that site as im doing a big order though so cant get specific brands


----------



## Tennobanzai

Can't wait to install my 5870 with the full cover block..


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai* 
Can't wait to install my 5870 with the full cover block..

have anymore pictures? i would love to see how you've got everything setup.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
I'm liking the idea of red and blue blending together but i still would need to see some pics. U got any bro?









Taken with Cell so sorry about the bad quality


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
have anymore pictures? i would love to see how you've got everything setup.

Sorry these are the only other pictures i can find right now that i saved. If you have any specific area i can show you, just ask.
Before my WC








Old setup with 3/8 fittings. I have recently moved up to 1/2 fittings and moved the HDD under the rad while i reversed the connections for a little cleaner look.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Taken with Cell so sorry about the bad quality


























That does look awesome









Thank you. I just might get blue ccfls now


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
That does look awesome









Thank you. I just might get blue ccfls now









Glad I can help you decide







Keep us posted with some pics


----------



## smartasien

finally add me to the list even though i've been WC'in for a while.
loop consists of 2 thermochill pa120.3 (25mm fan spacing) rads stacked horizontally, eheim 1250 pump, ek supreme hf, feser carribean blue tubing. and those fans are 25mm deltas afb1212shx6
the fans pull air in from the back side and exhausts back out the front side. i'm only cooling a single quad core cpu with this too. i know OVERKILL! i love it. needa work on the cable management. -_-


----------



## Yogi

Got some pics today! New camera and kinda rushed because I had to go to work, Ill try to get some better ones soon.
Even though I just set it up I already have some upgrades in mind and ideas for a dual loop/rad if I get another card









EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
EK FC5850 Nickel + Acetal
Black Ice GTX360
Swifttech MCP355
XSPC Restop
BP Black Sparkle compression fittings
Primochill 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing
3x San Ace H101s


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
I blame bundymania

hahaha


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Got some pics today! New camera and kinda rushed because I had to go to work, Ill try to get some better ones soon.
Even though I just set it up I already have some upgrades in mind and ideas for a dual loop/rad if I get another card
















































what is this I dont even...







there's like..... 2 cables in that case . HAX!


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Got some pics today! New camera and kinda rushed because I had to go to work, Ill try to get some better ones soon.
Even though I just set it up I already have some upgrades in mind and ideas for a dual loop/rad if I get another card







]























































































































































wow..... really perdyyy







nice idear with ur dvd drive btw :]


----------



## JE Nightmare

Lookin good yogi, your setup always makes me want black tubing.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
what is this I dont even...







there's like..... 2 cables in that case . HAX!

HAF has awesome cable management







. My 8pin is a little short so I need so sleeve an extension.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
wow..... really perdyyy







nice idear with ur dvd drive btw :]

Thanks. Ill can still fit another drive on the bottom with a little cutting too.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
Lookin good yogi, your setup always makes me want black tubing.









Thanks. I was going to get anti kink coils, but I'm glad I didn't. I think I want to make one of my tubes gray to go with the theme though.


----------



## Lost-boi

Yogi, im assuming you never put the side panel on?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## yutzybrian

Very nice PC Yogi. I as well would like to see it with the side panel on though


----------



## newpc

can i join now, all in case now







, sorry for the bad pics, phone cam sucks



















EDIT: getto mod ftw, using a couple of zipties to hold rad in place, doesnt move at all


----------



## 88EVGAFTW




----------



## Exek

This is alot of silver, indeed. Awesome job.


----------



## rzs77

Got myself a new speed light so i thought I would snap a few more pictures and now that all the air bubbles are gone, I can FINALLY close the side panel









Here you go...hope you guys don't mind































































been thinking of changing the blue LED in front to red. but I'm a noob with these things


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Got myself a new speed light so i thought I would again snap a few pictures now that all the air bubbles are gone, I can FINALLY close the side panel









Here you go...hope you guys don't mind











[IMG]

[IMG]

[IMG]

[IMG]

[IMG]

been thinking of changing the blue LED in front to red. but I'm a noob with these things [IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/frown.gif

I would give it a try, its not really hard to change a led, and things like that finish a build








It looks darn cool now though, gotta love black and red


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
I would give it a try, its not really hard to change a led, and things like that finish a build








It looks darn cool now though, gotta love black and red









Thank you! and yeah! Loving the black and red








But I'm also thinking off adding 2 more blue ccfl like somebody suggested. Don't know yet...still thinking








As for the led, I'm looking for tutorials now. Wouldn't want to rush it and ruin the casing








Hehe!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Thank you! and yeah! Loving the black and red








But I'm also thinking off adding 2 more blue ccfl like somebody suggested. Don't know yet...still thinking








As for the led, I'm looking for tutorials now. Wouldn't want to rush it and ruin the casing








Hehe!

No problem








Tbh I wouldnt use blue with red in a black case. I'd rather use white, but thats my opinion.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
No problem








Tbh I wouldnt use blue with red in a black case. I'd rather use white, but thats my opinion.

Aahhh...I see u r working on a black and white theme urself?








Very nice! Will white work with black and red?








I think I'll go to the store nearby and get a couple of white ccfls then cos i already have 2 blue ones somewhere in the house








If I don't like it, will just sell it off again...right?


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:










How did you take that with the crazy bokeh, or is it shooped?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Aahhh...I see u r working on a black and white theme urself?








Very nice! Will white work with black and red?








I think I'll go to the store nearby and get a couple of white ccfls then cos i already have 2 blue ones somewhere in the house








If I don't like it, will just sell it off again...right?









ye, I'm working on a black&white rig








Though I just think blue and red is a bad combo. If you have blue tubes in the house I would give it a try, and see if you like it. Maybe it gives the effect you like.
If you dont like the blue ones you can always buy some white lights. Maybe a few led's and aim them on some parts that you would like to highlight.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
How did you take that with the crazy bokeh, or is it shooped?

huh? sorry, my english is a lil noob...i don't understand ur question


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
ye, I'm working on a black&white rig








Though I just think blue and red is a bad combo. If you have blue tubes in the house I would give it a try, and see if you like it. Maybe it gives the effect you like.
If you dont like the blue ones you can always buy some white lights. Maybe a few led's and aim them on some parts that you would like to highlight.

Exactly! See where my CPU waterblock is? That part is a little plain, the red doesn't reach there so i thought of adding more red ccfl at 1st but then i feel like it'll be a bit of an overkill and my case would be brighter then a club so maybe white would be perfect


----------



## oliverw92

Oh, bokeh = camera blur from depth of field. What i meant to ask is:

How did you do the cool blur effect?


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Oh, bokeh = camera blur from depth of field. What i meant to ask is:

How did you do the cool blur effect?

Aahhhh! LOL! I Photoshoped it, using filter --> radial blur








But my main intention was not to make the pic cool but to hide my untidy house


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Aahhhh! LOL! I Photoshoped it, using filter --> radial blur








But my main intention was not to make the pic cool but to hide my untidy house









well, it worked anyways, cause if Oli thinks its cool, you did it pretty darn good


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lost-boi* 
Yogi, im assuming you never put the side panel on?

Nope. It sits on my desk and I don't really like the stock side panel. I might cut a window for it or buy one from the CM store, but I don't want to spend any more money right now.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yutzybrian* 
Very nice PC Yogi. I as well would like to see it with the side panel on though

It might not fit since the DVD drive sticks out a little. I could try to put it on the next time I take pics though


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
well, it worked anyways, cause if Oli thinks its cool, you did it pretty darn good









LOL! How nice








I appreciate the compliment...it's just a simple effect


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## cazza1938812

Can i has membership?

How it looked before latest changes









How it currently looks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Here is my new Benchtable - very good price and 1a quality

Dimastech Bench/Test Table Easy V2.5 glossy black














































Available at Aquatuning.com for example


----------



## oliverw92

Nice bench, i like the shapes in it.

Aquatuning are evil -.-


----------



## Chicken Patty

@ bundy

That is just one sexy rig, from the dimastech to the components, to the sleeving, everything!


----------



## bundymania

Many thanks mate !









Here i have pics from new Mora 3 which iÂ´m testing with several setups atm:


















































































ItÂ´s available directly at watercool.de or other Onlineshops in Europe


----------



## oliverw92

It is definitely a visual improvement over the MoRa 2. Wish AT hadn't bought them all though!


----------



## bundymania

I made several "Pre-Testing" so far with CPU Only (i7 920 @4.0Ghz - 1.41V) and in this test, the new Mora is max. 1k better than the old version. Tests with 1 and *2x* GTX 480 will follow soon, but i need a stronger PSU first


















(Difference Water <-> Roomtemp)










U/Min. = Fanspeed - RPM



















i7 920 @4Ghz (1.41V) + Mips Fusionblock










PS: AT did not buy Watercool, itÂ´s an independent Company in North Germany


----------



## merple

Nice work Bundy, look forward to seeing more results.
What do you think the comparison would be like between a Mora3 Vs. 3 PA12.3 rads?


----------



## bundymania

Well, i guess 3 of them perform better than the mora with 1200 RPM and perhaps will less fanspeed too


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

love that bench bundy.


----------



## oliverw92

Wow i'm impressed with the delta increase!

I know watercool is still independent, what i mean is Aquatuning bought nearly all the MoRa 3's from them so now you can't buy them straight from Watercool or from other shops.


----------



## yutzybrian

Dang now thats a large rad


----------



## 12Cores

Low budget Rig Complete!

Wanted:

i5-750
P55 Motherboard
4GB DD3 Ram


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## marl

Had to use my phone for the pic.

Here's my setup. Put some sweat, blood, and tears into this bad boy.


----------



## hollywood406

What are you using for a reservoir? It kind of looks like a milk jug







but it looks good for a budget setup. What kinds of temps are you getting? Or should I say how does it compare with air cooling? Nice job!









+rep for the clean job


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 12Cores

Thx, I used a $3 Water Bottle from Walmart for my reservoir. The temps are great it idles at room temp most of the time and never gets over 55C under full load. On air I was not able to get anything above 3.35ghz stable.


----------



## superj1977

XSPC dual bay res pump
2x Magicool slim 240mm Rads
4x Yate Loon D12SH-12 2200RPM
EK NB Asus HP
EK-Supreme LT - Plexi
EK FC5870 - Plexi
NZXT Sentry fan controller
Red Pink? Feser view uv


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey guys, anyone happen to have 3 matching GTX 280 waterblocks?

I am having a hell of a time finding any since these cards are no longer current gen. :-(


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superj1977* 

XSPC dual bay res pump
2x Magicool slim 240mm Rads
4x Yate Loon D12SH-12 2200RPM
EK NB Asus HP
EK-Supreme LT - Plexi
EK FC5870 - Plexi
NZXT Sentry fan controller
Red Pink? Feser view uv


Are you using tygon tubing?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superj1977* 

XSPC dual bay res pump
2x Magicool slim 240mm Rads
4x Yate Loon D12SH-12 2200RPM
EK NB Asus HP
EK-Supreme LT - Plexi
EK FC5870 - Plexi
NZXT Sentry fan controller
Red Pink? Feser view uv


That build is great, I really like the purple/pink theme...not very common...really really nice


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS* 
That build is great, I really like the purple/pink theme...not very common...really really nice










Agreed. Nice build superJ1977


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
Are you using tygon tubing?

Hi,no its not tygon its cheapo xspc clear,if your thinking its very shiny its cos ive just rebuilt it in the last 2-3 days and its got white led strips stuck in the top and under the graphics card and 14 uv leds stashed in front and top.


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS* 
That build is great, I really like the purple/pink theme...not very common...really really nice










Hey thanks mate,its a little different the colour...but its not supposed to be,lmao.
Its feser view uv red and i put in twice the amount i should and its still too weak a colour so looks pinkish.
I was thinking about putting a syringe of primochill blood red dye bomb,what you think?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superj1977* 
Hey thanks mate,its a little different the colour...but its not supposed to be,lmao.
Its feser view uv red and i put in twice the amount i should and its still too weak a colour so looks pinkish.
I was thinking about putting a syringe of primochill blood red dye bomb,what you think?

I think you should avoid using it. I used the blood red dye from Primochill in my original variation of my loop. Within two weeks it had broke down to a pinkish/purplish color just as you're experiencing. Plus it gunked up my cpu block and rads. My suggestion is to go with red tubing and straight distilled H2O, with a biocide of course, if that's the look you are going for.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superj1977* 
Hi,no its not tygon its cheapo xspc clear,if your thinking its very shiny its cos ive just rebuilt it in the last 2-3 days and its got white led strips stuck in the top and under the graphics card and 14 uv leds stashed in front and top.

I was asking not so much for the clarity as much as that pretty hard bend on your cpu. I'm made a not so great choice to take the cheap side of tubing and because of that i'm using way to much tubing just to avoid kinks.


----------



## bundymania

After my old Res. cracks, i got a new one from Alex:





































New Version !

Both end caps are threaded Delrin, and newer IceCaps can be purchased and placed on with ease. They secure it with a smaller nylon thumb screw, but cracking is not an issue since they push on the Delrin portion. The light tube is threaded and secures into the base Delrin portion, and instead of the little cap that glued onto the top, they actually have threaded caps with a BN50 gasket to screw on them.

The base of the reservoir has two brass pins pressed into the Delrin. Each of the helix assemblies(Liquid Fusion), straight rod assemblies (RCX) and anti vortex assemblies (Reactor Core) has two small holes on the base that snaps into these pins. It allows the user to make these parts interchangeable.


----------



## oliverw92

The new version looks awesome! Is it the same price?


----------



## Chicken Patty

That res is amazing, great job from Alex


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
I was asking not so much for the clarity as much as that pretty hard bend on your cpu. I'm made a not so great choice to take the cheap side of tubing and because of that i'm using way to much tubing just to avoid kinks.

That bend from cpu to fusionblock was pretty easy and one of the connections to the fusion/nb is on a 45 angle so its easy-ish,the pipes not even showing any sign of folding or kinking at that point but it did fold just as it comes out of bottom rad where you can see temp sensor tied to pipe.

I take it tygon is good at bending right?think i may buy it next time and drop down to smaller tubing size as half inch just seems to dominate the case.


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
I think you should avoid using it. I used the blood red dye from Primochill in my original variation of my loop. Within two weeks it had broke down to a pinkish/purplish color just as you're experiencing. Plus it gunked up my cpu block and rads. My suggestion is to go with red tubing and straight distilled H2O, with a biocide of course, if that's the look you are going for.

Thanks,i will avoid the primochill then.
I have only just built the rig 2-3 days ago so the colour has not faded through time it just seem sto be a very very weak dye.

Think im probably going to buy another bottle of the same feser view uv red and add some more.


----------



## oliverw92

superj, try the Thermochill clear tubing from WatercoolingUK - same quality and bend radius as Tygon, yet it is cheaper and has no text on the tubing.


----------



## jrgull13

I'm kind of surprised at the number of mid towers in here, I thought most water cooling people used full towers. You guys must have a lot of patience and are not claustrophobic. Some sick rigs in here, hope mine looks as nifty when I get mine done.


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
superj, try the Thermochill clear tubing from WatercoolingUK - same quality and bend radius as Tygon, yet it is cheaper and has no text on the tubing.

Ok thanks,next time im rebuilding which wont be too far from now i think i may just try the Thermochill tubing then,take it you use it then?


----------



## oliverw92

I have friends who have used it who have also used Tygon and they say it is the same, if not better







Thermochill engineered it to be like Tygon, but cheaper and without the letters printed on it.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
The new version looks awesome! Is it the same price?

Yes, i think so, but maybe a bit cheaper than the previous version...i hope. 115 EUR for the old Rev. @highflow.nl


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
I'm kind of surprised at the number of mid towers in here, I thought most water cooling people used full towers. You guys must have a lot of patience and are not claustrophobic. Some sick rigs in here, hope mine looks as nifty when I get mine done.

Definitely post some pics when it's finished!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mitchbowman

how is the PrimoFlex PRO LRT for price vs. performance / look's


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mitchbowman*


how is the PrimoFlex PRO LRT for price vs. performance / look's


if i remember right that's what im using but black and i wouldn't run any thing else. i love it.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Yes, i think so, but maybe a bit cheaper than the previous version...i hope. 115 EUR for the old Rev. @highflow.nl










It is a shame they cost so much - in my opinion he needs to find ways to make it cheaper. They is like 3-4 times as much as an IandH stealthres.


----------



## Yogi

So I found some little heatsinks that came with my Bloodrage. Would it help any if I put them on the bottom of my pump?


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


After my old Res. cracks, i got a new one from Alex:

http://www.abload.de/img/img_6929v2zy.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_6935b2da.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_6941w1fj.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_6945h2hp.jpg

New Version !

Both end caps are threaded Delrin, and newer IceCaps can be purchased and placed on with ease. They secure it with a smaller nylon thumb screw, but cracking is not an issue since they push on the Delrin portion. The light tube is threaded and secures into the base Delrin portion, and instead of the little cap that glued onto the top, they actually have threaded caps with a BN50 gasket to screw on them.

The base of the reservoir has two brass pins pressed into the Delrin. Each of the helix assemblies(Liquid Fusion), straight rod assemblies (RCX) and anti vortex assemblies (Reactor Core) has two small holes on the base that snaps into these pins. It allows the user to make these parts interchangeable.


AGGGG that res is so beautiful it makes me cry


----------



## BKsMassive

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.

Specs:
Swiftech MCP655-b
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCW60
Swiftech MicroRes v2
Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
18x High Speed Yate loons.











All of that just to cool a Q6600 and 9800GTX? Crazy! xD


----------



## Chicken Patty

^^That's pretty darn cool


----------



## tzillian

My first loop ever!!


----------



## WTHbot

Is that orange tubing?


----------



## tzillian

its supposed to be this one which says its red, but looks orange to me.

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ac...mm-uv-red.html


----------



## JE Nightmare

is it really that hard to people to tell the difference between colored tubing and dyes?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tzillian*


its supposed to be this one which says its red, but looks orange to me.

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ac...mm-uv-red.html


Sure looks read on the website. . .

Wonder why they couldn't achieve red. . .

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


is it really that hard to people to tell the difference between colored tubing and dyes?


Also, I can tell cause of the edges of tubing if it's the tubings color or the waters.

Honestly I liked colored tubing better.


----------



## JE Nightmare

The easiest way to tell if it's colored or dye is if you can see through it...


----------



## Yogi

Nice first loop tzillan. Does it look red in person? Could just be the lighting and flash the makes the tubing look orange. Also how come you went with a 240 + 120 instead of just a 360 rad?

Got my i7 back in! Waiting for some new thermal pads and tubing from EK until I add it into the loop


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Nice first loop tzillan. Does it look red in person? Could just be the lighting and flash the makes the tubing look orange. Also how come you went with a 240 + 120 instead of just a 360 rad?

Got my i7 back in! Waiting for some new thermal pads and tubing from EK until I add it into the loop


Judging by the way he has it set up its so the water coming outta the CPU block is cooled a little before it goes to the GPU


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*


Judging by the way he has it set up its so the water coming outta the CPU block is cooled a little before it goes to the GPU


Ugh, I'm not even gonna try anymore.

You guys and your rubbish myths.


----------



## tzillian

no, it looks pretty damn orange in person too. oh well, i dont really mind it. i went with a 240 just to be safe, wasnt sure if i could fit a 360 but i know now it can, later on ill upgrade but this is good for now. im sad to report that i am getting bsod, anyone know what i should do? or atleast a forum to direct me to? thanks.


----------



## tzillian

oh, and the set up is 
pump res>240 rad>cpu>120 rad>gpu>pump res.


----------



## wermad

I've cooled a 4870x2 using a 120 rad, idle ~38, load 60c, beats stock 50c/75-90c.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Ugh, I'm not even gonna try anymore.

You guys and your rubbish myths.


Thats why I went pump --> block. Makes a lot of setups look cleaner too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tzillian*


no, it looks pretty damn orange in person too. oh well, i dont really mind it. i went with a 240 just to be safe, wasnt sure if i could fit a 360 but i know now it can, later on ill upgrade but this is good for now. im sad to report that i am getting bsod, anyone know what i should do? or atleast a forum to direct me to? thanks.


Unstable OC? What are your clocks at?

So right now Im only running my 5850 in the loop. Me likey.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Ugh, I'm not even gonna try anymore.

You guys and your rubbish myths.


I didn't say I believed in it. I was just saying that it might be the reasoning he had behind it


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*


I didn't say I believed in it. I was just saying that it might be the reasoning he had behind it


Saying what you did spreads those ideas, and they are simply not true.

As I posted in his thread, the was he did it was the simplist way, but that's not always the case. Sacrificing a simple loop for a fancy loop order is not going to help your temps.

Nor will it look nice.


----------



## wermad

I have tested both loop setups pump>rad>block>res and pump>block>rad>res, and there was NO temp difference, choose which ever is convenient for your setup.


----------



## rzs77

bought a few other items for my RV02




































Will post more once I have assembled them


----------



## Chicken Patty

^^^ Nice buy


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
^^^ Nice buy









Thanks! can't wait to assemble them. But am too busy today. I have my convocation ceremony


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Thanks! can't wait to assemble them. But am too busy today. I have my convocation ceremony









Do what you gotta do bro







Keep us posted


----------



## ecaftermath

Which fans are best for TFC radiators?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Personal opinions and preference, people have them... He built his loop the way HE wanted to and HE is happy with it, does it need to go any deeper then that?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Which fans are best for TFC radiators?

If they are the new TFC rads, any medium or High speed 25mm fan is more than enough, like a Yate Loon High Speed fan for under 4$


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
If they are the new TFC rads, any medium or High speed 25mm fan is more than enough, like a Yate Loon High Speed fan for under 4$

Sadly, there are no Yate Loons here in Canada for under 9.99$.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rzs77*












Red and black never get old. Very nice.


----------



## Chicken Patty

^^^werrrd!


----------



## alexl

This is my new system:










First test (3.2Ghz):










Rad fan speed - 60%
Pump speed - 50%
GPU and CPU - full load

Ambient - 25C
Water - 40C
RAM - 43C
Northbridge - 48C


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexl*


This is my new system:










First test (3.2Ghz):










Rad fan speed - 60%
Pump speed - 50%
GPU and CPU - full load

Ambient - 25C
Water - 40C
RAM - 43C
Northbridge - 48C


looks nice!


----------



## jrgull13

Blue with the white is has a really cool visual effect.

Or is that UV? (God I hate being colorblind sometimes)


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrgull13*


Blue with the white is has a really cool visual effect.

Or is that UV? (God I hate being colorblind sometimes)


its uv and blue i think


----------



## alexl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


its uv and blue i think


Correct


----------



## yutzybrian

Umm alexl I think you need more storage space


----------



## alexl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*


Umm alexl I think you need more storage space










I use this system for video processing, so this 8.5TB is not my whim


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexl*


This is my new system:










First test (3.2Ghz):










Rad fan speed - 60%
Pump speed - 50%
GPU and CPU - full load

Ambient - 25C
Water - 40C
RAM - 43C
Northbridge - 48C


cpu temps are pretty bad

high 60s?


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

taking a wild guess here but no push and pull on the rad?

pretty hot for the processor speed you are at.you should be sitting on low 
40s temp


----------



## alexl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy*


taking a wild guess here but no push and pull on the rad?
pretty hot for the processor speed you are at.you should be sitting on low 
40s temp


Yes, it is not perfect but it's not only CPU but also full load of GPU (GTX480 takes 250-300W). If only prime95 runs (without graphics) - the core temp is 57-59C. The ambient temperature is also quite high (25-26C).

A bit more info.

idle:
water (I have sensor) - 32C
northbridge - 39C
RAM - 42C
inside case - 32C
Core 42-37-40-38C
GPU - 39C

CPU load (prime95 large FFP)
water - 35C
northbridge - 39C
RAM - 49C
inside case - 32C
Core 59-55-57-55
GPU - 42C

graph:


----------



## rzs77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Do what you gotta do bro







Keep us posted










Haha...Thanks for the support. I will. But I'm afraid it's going to take a while







I'm off for my vacation tomorrow morning, island getaway








But no worries! Will start working as soon as i get back! Stay tuned yes?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Red and black never get old. Very nice.


Thank you very much! Before building the system, was contemplating between the Gigabyte ud7 or the Asus C4f just because i couldn't decide on the theme. LOL! Now i KNOW i didn't go wrong with the Asus


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

very nice rig alexl


----------



## ecaftermath

So from what I have observed. For a single CPU BLOCK loop: The loop usually go from PUMP-->RES-->CPU-->RAD-->PUMP. Is this correct?

I'm building a single loop for my CPU, so I want to know if that's the correct way.


----------



## tzillian

res>pump>rad>cpu

imo. thats how mine is set up.


----------



## SimpleTech

Doesn't really matter if you have the CPU block before or after the radiator. After a certain time frame, everything will reach equilibrium. Just make sure you have the reservoir before the pump. Then again, that is actually not necessary but it makes bleeding the loop much easier.


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
res>pump>rad>cpu

imo. thats how mine is set up.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Doesn't really matter if you have the CPU block before or after the radiator. After a certain time frame, everything will reach equilibrium. Just make sure you have the reservoir before the pump. Then again, that is actually not necessary but it makes bleeding the loop much easier.









But doesn't the pump push the water to the reservoir then to the CPU block?

So say you put the tube to t he outtake of the pump to the reservoir then to res to the CPU? Then everything back to the pump as intake?


----------



## Sean W.

just finished not even 15 minutes ago!

add me to the list!


----------



## tzillian

nice^


----------



## Sean W.

go see the rest of the pictures in my Work log


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
But doesn't the pump push the water to the reservoir then to the CPU block?

So say you put the tube to t he outtake of the pump to the reservoir then to res to the CPU? Then everything back to the pump as intake?

Well yeah if you put the reservoir after the pump. It would work but it's highly not recommended (obviously).

Therefore put the pump outlet to the CPU block or radiator (whichever is easier and makes the loop smallest). Attach the inlet to the reservoir.


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Well yeah if you put the reservoir after the pump. It would work but it's highly not recommended (obviously).

Therefore put the pump outlet to the CPU block or radiator (whichever is easier and makes the loop smallest). Attach the inlet to the reservoir.

Pump>Radiator>CPU Block>Reservoir>Pump I guess?


----------



## Sean W.

^ yup thats how i have mine setup


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Pump>Radiator>CPU Block>Reservoir>Pump I guess?

Yup that is good. Just remember to post pictures after you're done.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sean W.* 
just finished not even 15 minutes ago!

add me to the list!














































Hey, I have the same res and would like to know how u mount ur res like that?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Hey, I have the same res and would like to know how u mount ur res like that?

double sided tape.


----------



## Sean W.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
double sided tape.









excuse me sir, i belive the question was directed to me

.... Double sided tape









i used 3M brand 4011 tape, if you go to my work log you can see wher ei put 6 pounds on top of the res and it held it up for over 24 hours.

i would have used 3M brand 4010 tape, but i couldnt find any. i also used the same tape to mount my pump


----------



## JE Nightmare

well, if you didn't take 5 min to read this i wouldn't have answered it lol.


----------



## tzillian

hey, my fans are pretty loud. what are good quiet 120 mm fans for water cooling?


----------



## alexl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
hey, my fans are pretty loud. what are good quiet 120 mm fans for water cooling?

I use GT AP-15. Look at: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...s-roundup.html


----------



## ecaftermath

Wouldn't AP-14 be better? 1450RPM, 21 dBA as opposed to AP15's 28 dBA. CFM for AP14 is 50 and AP15 is 58CFM. Not much difference in CFM and is more quiet as well.


----------



## alexl

You can use AP-15 on 1450RPM but you can't get more then 1450RPM with AP-14.
Take a look at the chart: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo..._18.html#sect0


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexl*


Yes, it is not perfect but it's not only CPU but also full load of GPU (GTX480 takes 250-300W). If only prime95 runs (without graphics) - the core temp is 57-59C. The ambient temperature is also quite high (25-26C).

A bit more info.

idle:
water (I have sensor) - 32C
northbridge - 39C
RAM - 42C
inside case - 32C
Core 42-37-40-38C
GPU - 39C

CPU load (prime95 large FFP)
water - 35C
northbridge - 39C
RAM - 49C
inside case - 32C
Core 59-55-57-55
GPU - 42C

graph:










i still believe that is pretty hot for a 360 rad even with gpu and cpu on load,like i said maybe some one could give u more of a insight on this


----------



## alexl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy*


i still believe that is pretty hot for a 360 rad even with gpu and cpu on load,like i said maybe some one could give u more of a insight on this


Maybe... One question: as you can see on the graph, the temperature of CPU jumps up on 15C when prime95 starts and drops down immediately when I stop the test. Is it normal? I mean 15C between core and water?


----------



## XxG3nexX




----------



## kevingreenbmx

wow, that is impressive XxG3nexX.

I love the tubing routing.

updated


----------



## jrgull13

the spiral effect on the CPU block tubing is schweet

also the skunk stripes on the sleeving is.. um... interesting but not in a bad way


----------



## Chilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrgull13*


the spiral effect on the CPU block tubing is schweet

also the skunk stripes on the sleeving is.. um... interesting but not in a bad way


The sleeving looks pretty good, considering the theme is black and white


----------



## tzillian

i wish i could get that res to fit my case. I have the R3E as well and it is too long in the haf x case and there would be no room for that res.


----------



## jrgull13

i really like those virusy thing reservoirs.. but i'm a DIY kinda guy....


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
i wish i could get that res to fit my case. I have the R3E as well and it is too long in the haf x case and there would be no room for that res.

If you were to dump your xspc res you could fit a liquid fusion for sure, you'd just have to redo your whole loop lol.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chilly* 
The sleeving looks pretty good, considering the theme is black and white









It is? Sorry, coulda sworn I saw a large amount of red and blue in there too


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
It is? Sorry, coulda sworn I saw a large amount of red and blue in there too









Sst, he's color blind!


----------



## Chilly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
It is? Sorry, coulda sworn I saw a large amount of red and blue in there too









Yea, I see the red and blue too, although I was mainly looking at the case and the tubing


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexl* 
Maybe... One question: as you can see on the graph, the temperature of CPU jumps up on 15C when prime95 starts and drops down immediately when I stop the test. Is it normal? I mean 15C between core and water?

that is very normal.tho it takes a while for the gpu to creep up

not for nothing but i believe jugglo has only a 360 rad and cooling two gpus and a processor and has no issues

all over clocked

you only have 1 gpu and processor and seems way to hot even with a gtx 480 in the loop

i have 2 rads and i have my mobo being cooled and everything being fully over clocked with no temp issues

tho i do see a rise in temps when the gpu and processor is fully maxed it is not as hot by that much difference in temps.

but reguardless your load temps on cpu only should not be that hot


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Sst, he's color blind!









stop making fun of me









srsly tho i am color blind. dark stuff all looks black to me


----------



## ecaftermath

What's a good alternative for a PT NUKE? I can't find one here in Canada. PTS did not respond to my email if they will ship it to Canada..


----------



## JE Nightmare

silver coil.


----------



## alexl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy* 
tho i do see a rise in temps when the gpu and processor is fully maxed it is not as hot by that much difference in temps.

Could you show the chart? I mean something like:


----------



## ecaftermath

Hm should I get a 3 way splitter at the bottom connected to the pump, so whenever I want to drain the water, it will be easier?

Oh and I can I just get a biocide from a pet store and put it in the res? PT Nuke is basically just that right?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Hm should I get a 3 way splitter at the bottom connected to the pump, so whenever I want to drain the water, it will be easier?

Oh and I can I just get a biocide from a pet store and put it in the res? PT Nuke is basically just that right?

I bought some silver strip on ebay. PM me for info if you want.


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I bought some silver strip on ebay. PM me for info if you want.

totally forgot about the existent of ebay! Lol!


----------



## Contagion

Eh I wanna join!


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Kevin...this is post #4 for me.

I added a GPU to my loop. I also did some experimenting with UV automotive tracer line because I was sick of red tubing with straight distilled water. Forgive the poor cable management and the kinking underneath the res...I'll fix those problems soon.

Here she is in the daytime:










Meow here she is all lit up at night:


----------



## KillerBeaz

^ ooohhh pretty...


----------



## Yogi

Akimbo that looks pretty awesome but... is that a kink at the inlet of your res?


----------



## godofdeath

isn't the helix suppose to light up?


----------



## Deagle50ae

O sure. Why not.
I'm in


















































I know, I know. It's messy. I didnt feel like cutting many holes in this one.

Water Cooling
o CPU - Heatkiller 3.0 LT
o GPU - EK Acrylic/Nickle
o FESER TFC XCHANGER 480mm radiator
o Pump - MPC655 Vario w/ Bitspower top
o Reservoir - modified Tribal Overkill 8-port Acrylic
o Pimochill 1/2" ID LTR tubing
o 4x Feser 45-degree rotary fittings
o 4x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM
o BitsPower Temperature probe in the res (before radiator)


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KillerBeaz* 
^ ooohhh pretty...









Danke!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Akimbo that looks pretty awesome but... is that a kink at the inlet of your res?

Yes, a humongous kink








I am going to order some rotary fittings to fix that problem.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
isn't the helix suppose to light up?

Indeed it is...the UV light broke though. But no worries, a new FrozenQ res is being made for me.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Timlander

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

Man this thread is still going on and I didnt see it when it was first started lol.

So I found some of the better pictures so I could throw them up in here:


----------



## z0mi3ie

First WC project complete.









Case: Danger Den Torture rack
GPU: Asus 5970
CPU: Intel 930 @ 2.8ghz
Hard Drive: Crucial 128GB SSD - Boot Drive
Hard Drive: WD Caviar Black 1TB - Storage
Motherboard: Asus P6X58D
RAM: Crucial 6GB Ballistix Tracers
Power Supply: Kingwin 1000w PSU
Disc Drive: Asus DVD Drive
HD Cooler: MassCool HD Cooler
UV Lights: Logisys Cold Cathode UV
Monitors: (3) 23" Dell ST2310B

Water System:
CPU Block: EK Supreme HF
GPU Block: EK 5970 Full Coverage
Radiators: GTX360 Extreme HW LABS
Fans: 6 Yate Loon High Speed
Fan Controller: Lamptron FC-2
Resevoir: Danger Den Rad Res
Pump: MCP655 w/ dresskit and speed control
Tubing: Primochill UV Orange (3/8 ID 1/2 OD)
Fittings: Bitspower Compression fittings and rotaries
T Line: Bitspower crystal
Liquid: Distilled water with silver coil & PT Nuke

Let me know what you all think, and thank you all for the help along the way.


----------



## z0mi3ie

More pics


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
stop making fun of me









srsly tho i am color blind. dark stuff all looks black to me









I didnt know that, I wouldnt make a joke if I knew it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R00ST3R

I think Kevin should get some commission checks from the various WC equipment manufacturer's. This thread seems to have inspired many to "take the dive"







.


----------



## Timlander

Quote:


Originally Posted by *z0mi3ie* 
More pics









Very nice, looks good.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
I think Kevin should get some commission checks from the various WC equipment manufacturer's. This thread seems to have inspired many to "take the dive"







.

Yea it has. I think it has inspired me to build another custom case.


----------



## oliverw92

Slowly getting there with the WCing - that is an IandH StealthRes connected to a Black Ice Stealth 360 up top and going down to two DDC 10w and an EK quad rad.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 









Slowly getting there with the WCing - that is an IandH StealthRes connected to a Black Ice Stealth 360 up top and going down to two DDC 10w and an EK quad rad.









Moar pics!


----------



## oliverw92

Worklog in sig (polarity), don't want to spam here


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Worklog in sig (polarity), don't want to spam here

Understand, I'll go check it out now. Thanks


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Worklog in sig (polarity), don't want to spam here

I'd hardly see your work as spam in any thread honestly.


----------



## oliverw92

Lol thanks, but it isn't even finished yet. I will spam the thread once it is finished


----------



## jorgerp86

updated the rig with new tubing, currently waiting dual bay res.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

very nice looking rig Jorge P


----------



## ecaftermath

I just found out that TFC discontinued all their radiators. What will happen if you need to RMA? Would they have a replacement for yours? Stupid question I know.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
I just found out that TFC discontinued all their radiators. What will happen if you need to RMA? Would they have a replacement for yours? Stupid question I know.

They are designing a new line up.

Not sure about RMA though. Sorry.


----------



## fshizl

Its a work in progress but you can add me.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

thats lookin' great man, can't wait to see the end product.

updated


----------



## dido714

Quote:


Originally Posted by *z0mi3ie* 
First WC project complete.









Case: Danger Den Torture rack
GPU: Asus 5970
CPU: Intel 930 @ 2.8ghz
Hard Drive: Crucial 128GB SSD - Boot Drive
Hard Drive: WD Caviar Black 1TB - Storage
Motherboard: Asus P6X58D
RAM: Crucial 6GB Ballistix Tracers
Power Supply: Kingwin 1000w PSU
Disc Drive: Asus DVD Drive
HD Cooler: MassCool HD Cooler
UV Lights: Logisys Cold Cathode UV
Monitors: (3) 23" Dell ST2310B

Water System:
CPU Block: EK Supreme HF
GPU Block: EK 5970 Full Coverage
Radiators: GTX360 Extreme HW LABS
Fans: 6 Yate Loon High Speed
Fan Controller: Lamptron FC-2
Resevoir: Danger Den Rad Res
Pump: MCP655 w/ dresskit and speed control
Tubing: Primochill UV Orange (3/8 ID 1/2 OD)
Fittings: Bitspower Compression fittings and rotaries
T Line: Bitspower crystal
Liquid: Distilled water with silver coil & PT Nuke

Let me know what you all think, and thank you all for the help along the way.









lookin good








where did you find that orange tubing? im looking for some 1/2 ID. whenever i look its sold out.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dido714* 
lookin good








where did you find that orange tubing? im looking for some 1/2 ID. whenever i look its sold out.

1/2 ID tubing is not available from feser.. only one i found was xspc... and the only place stocking them that can get to US is chilledpc.co.uk

I got 7/16 ID x 5/8 becuase they didnt have enough 1/2 ID orange...


----------



## Yogi

Hurry up and finish it fshizl!









That rad grill looks pretty snazzy


----------



## kurosu

I would like to give a little update on my water cooling! I got an mcr-320 and an XSPC Rasa!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kurosu* 
I would like to give a little update on my water cooling! I got an mcr-320 and an XSPC Rasa!

Thats a nice blue/green combo kurosu, looks really cool


----------



## kurosu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Thats a nice blue/green combo kurosu, looks really cool









Thanx very much!


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Hurry up and finish it fshizl!









That red grill looks pretty snazzy

LOL it looks good but i want the Gt's to not stand out when they are on... hence why i wanna paint them black


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexl* 
Could you show the chart? I mean something like:










i dont have a chart with me but check my account aka my current post i posted temp results of me folding 24 hours on my gpu and cpu

at 4.2 ghz 48 hours temps are in in the high 60d to 71 c,if room temp is super hot it is s few c higher

temps on gpu 50 c if room temp is hot it is 53-54 c max


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jorgerp86

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
very nice looking rig Jorge P









Thanks! Got to make the best with what I have for now


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Does anyone know where I could purchase two Detroit D5 Thermo tops or EK D5 rev 2 tops? All sold out where I've looked.


----------



## ny_driver

I've decided to drill 2 holes through the floor/ceiling/freezer downstairs and give my radiator a new home @ -20c.

The hoses will only need to be 4 feet longer each...so 8 feet more hose.

Do you think I should put the pump downstairs between the radiator and cpu? Or maybe upstairs right before the cpu actually sounds better. Gravity will certainly feed the radiator from the reservoir.

Thanks for the advice.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I've decided to drill 2 holes through the floor/ceiling/freezer downstairs and give my radiator a new home @ -20c.

The hoses will only need to be 4 feet longer each...so 8 feet more hose.

Do you think I should put the pump downstairs between the radiator and cpu? Or maybe upstairs right before the cpu actually sounds better. Gravity will certainly feed the radiator from the reservoir.

Thanks for the advice.

putting a radiator in a freezer will kill the freezer in a couple weeks.

the compressors are not meant to be run 24/7


----------



## oliverw92

You would also need to insulate your motherboard


----------



## WTHbot

Just put your Radiator in a bucket of ice.


----------



## ny_driver

It melts 5 bags of ice in a cooler in 3 hours. I guess it would warm the freezer too much.








I'm going to figure something out.

Maybe install an industrial compressor that's meant to run a lot more.

Enough air blowing on it, the condensation dries up before even appearing.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Here's a pic of my current setup. Yeah, i know the cable management is horrible for the PCI connectors. I'll clean things up after i receive my GPU block.








Current setup:
MCP 350 with XSPC top
Swiftech Apogee XT
Swiftech 240 with built-in Res
Primochill 1/2 tubing
Dangerden barbs

On order:
EK 5870 full cover

You guys think i need an extra radiator?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai* 
You guys think i need an extra radiator?

Yes.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm going to get a freezer just for the radiator.

I will fill it with as many gallon jugs of ice as I can fit inside with the radiator.

The compressor can run as much as it needs to.

It won't run that much, and I shut down at night usually anyways.

I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Yes.

You think my MCP350 can handle it? I was thinking CPU/GPU and 2 rads would be pushing it.

edit: Just ordered a 120 from Tilatech for $20 xD


----------



## clownes

Would like to join ONC Water cooling Club. Coolit ECO A.L.C. on my sig rig.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## z0mi3ie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dido714* 
lookin good








where did you find that orange tubing? im looking for some 1/2 ID. whenever i look its sold out.

I couldn't find 1/2 ID orange, I ended up going with 3/8 ID 1/2 OD for the orange. Loving the UV effect, I think it was worth it going with the smaller tubing.


----------



## Yogi

Going to add in some gray tubing. Where do you guys think I should put it?
Switch to i7 so I have my Bloodrage now and will be adding in the NB block.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Yogi that looks great dude










would've been great if you could have painted the CPU waterblock the same color as the mobo


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Going to add in some gray tubing. Where do you guys think I should put it?
Ill also be adding in a NB block too.


That looks HOT! Love the mod. I guess you don't use the ROM much eh?


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Yogi that looks great dude









would've been great if you could have painted the CPU waterblock the same color as the mobo









Thanks







Do you mean the retention bracket? I have my Bloodrage now and the mobo is black. Still not one yet though. Theres pretty much no gray so Im going to be doing some more painting.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Thanks







Do you mean the retention bracket? I have my Bloodrage now and the mobo is black. Still not one yet though. Theres pretty much no gray so Im going to be doing some more painting.

Yeah the bracket. But you said you have a bloodrage now? If so then I take that back.


----------



## Freakn

Well I've brought the first parts for my first loop, these will go on my 5770's in my sig.

I'm just buying second hand parts for my first attempt at water cooling.



Now I'm hoping they'll mount on without issue or I'll make some new mounting brackets for them.

Won't be too long and I'll actually be able to post in the thread that I visit the most.


----------



## Chilly

^ Maybe you should have get these:










The MCW80


----------



## Freakn

Probably should of but I only paid $45USD for 2 of these shipped from the US to Aus.


----------



## Chilly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freakn* 
Probably should of but I only paid $45USD for 2 of these shipped from the US to Aus.

$45 for both? Done deal!


----------



## Freakn

For both and including shipping.

I'm still after another couple of GPU blocks and 2 CPU blocks plus PUMPS but couldn't pass up that deal.

Now just need them to actually be shipped by an OCN member. Been waiting a couple of days but it was the end of last week when the deal was made so I'll letting the weekend past before I get concerned.


----------



## Timlander

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freakn* 
Well I've brought the first parts for my first loop, these will go on my 5770's in my sig.

I'm just buying second hand parts for my first attempt at water cooling.



Now I'm hoping they'll mount on without issue or I'll make some new mounting brackets for them.

Won't be too long and I'll actually be able to post in the thread that I visit the most.

You will love them. I ran 2 of those on my xfire 4850's for a long time.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chilly* 
^ Maybe you should have get these:










The MCW80









Yup, the new rev is so awesome. =)


----------



## alanpsk

Please add me !!!
*Hardware*

Asus Rampage III Extreme
i7 980x ( O/C to 4.5ghz)
Corsair Dominator 6GB DDR3-2000
HD5970 Toxic (O/C 1000 / 1200)
Corsair HX1000w
Intel X25M 80GB
2 x Samsung 1TB RAID 0 Setup
Scythe KM03 Kaze Master 6 fan controller
ASUS BD-ROM
Cooler Master HAF X

*Watercooling*

CPU Block : Swiftech Apogee XT
Pump :Swiftech MCP 355 x 2 ( 1 is broken due to my stupidity )
Rad : BlackIce 360 stealth
Rez: Swiftech MCRES Micro Rev2 Reservoir
Tubing : Feser UV active 3/8"ID (1/2"OD)
Clamp : Koolance Reusable Host Clamp
Barb : Bitspower True Silver G1/4 3/8"Barb
Fan : 3 x Panaflo 120x38

*Sleeving*

2 x Sleeve small MDPC-X Red/Black
2 x Sleeve USB/SATA MDPC Red/Black
4 x Heatshrink small
4 x Heatshrink SATA
and.... a bunch of staplers (to remove 24-pin)



























































































Thanks !!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Yogi

Hey alan hows the temps with that rad?


----------



## alexl

Few new pics:


----------



## KShirza1

^^needs some better wire management to be secks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexl* 
Few new pics:

http://www.sanbasestudio.com/jpg/back3.jpg
http://www.sanbasestudio.com/jpg/back2.jpg
http://www.sanbasestudio.com/jpg/back4.jpg
http://www.sanbasestudio.com/jpg/top2.jpg
http://www.sanbasestudio.com/jpg/top1.jpg
http://www.sanbasestudio.com/jpg/front3.jpg

thats an awesome pc you got there


----------



## alanpsk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Hey alan hows the temps with that rad?

75c with full load


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexl* 
Few new pics:








]

I just love the white tubing on contrasting black case.

side note/rant: CM should have done the orginal HAF 932 like this since introduction, all black interior.


----------



## Freakn

Just finalized a deal for a



To cool my B50 & a



To cool my 1090T.

Getting closer to a full loop


----------



## bundymania

Here you can see my new Frozen-Q Res. in Action again


----------



## oliverw92

Is he in your good books now bundy?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Here you can see my new Frozen-Q Res. in Action again









http://www.abload.de/img/img_71400u7z.jpg

Looks pretty awesome.
Could you take a picture at night? from the side? Would love to see it that way


----------



## bundymania

Here:










and some of my other parts, that i get in the last 2 weeks for upcoming tests etc. :

I will use 2x GTX 480 for the Mora 2 <-> Mora 3 comparison, so the 2 blocks will do the job



























This Phobya 1080 Rad must show, how it performs against the Mora








ItÂ´s way cheaper but the build quality is not so good.
































































The Premixes are now available in a UV reactive version:



















This is an Radiator stand from phobya, where you can mount different types of rads:










ItÂ´s available in 2 different versions. this one costs about 70 EUR. You can mount quick disconnects at the side and a fillport at the top and of course a pump & Res. at the side.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

That res looks so sweet


----------



## Orestes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
That res looks so sweet









yeah, when i was ordering all my new parts i completely forgot about the t-virus and ordered a bitspower...thinking about buying one when i put water on my gpus later this year though


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## alexl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
I just love the white tubing on contrasting black case.

side note/rant: CM should have done the orginal HAF 932 like this since introduction, all black interior.

It's original HAF 932 (Black edition). Take a look at: http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/prod...roduct_id=2992


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexl* 
It's original HAF 932 (Black edition). Take a look at: http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/prod...roduct_id=2992

I had the first HAF 932, w/ the 230/200mm fan or optional 4x120mm fans on the left door, that one has a gray interior. You have the BE edition w/ the big window door from the AMD/red/dragon version though this time (I guess because the haf-x was done too) the interior was done in black.


----------



## smartasien

added 2 more uv cathodes to really bring out the uv red tubing









day time shot









sidepanel off/lights off









sidepanel on/lights off









lmk what u guys think i could improve on, i think the placement of the 2 visible uvs needs to change. i want them out of view but i'm not sure where.


----------



## rzs77

hello people...need some help again. I'm a noobie









i bought an ek dual bay reservoir. how do i install it? i tried pushing it in but it got stuck due to the support thinggys on the side of my rv02. please help. or shoot me. anything is welcomed


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
hello people...need some help again. I'm a noobie









i bought an ek dual bay reservoir. how do i install it? i tried pushing it in but it got stuck due to the support thinggys on the side of my rv02. please help. or shoot me. anything is welcomed









You might have to bend those support tabs back to fit it. That is what most people do, that or just cut them off completely.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
i bought an ek dual bay reservoir. how do i install it? i tried pushing it in but it got stuck due to the support thinggys on the side of my rv02. please help. or shoot me. anything is welcomed









You have to either bend those tabs on the case or cut them off.


----------



## infinite illusions

Soooo many awesome looking rigs guys! I have a question for you guys. A. Are your credit cards maxed out yet? LOL. Seriously though......I was looking for uv pink tubing in 1/2"ID 3/4"OD and apparently they don't make it. I'm trying to create a certain look, so its either using a dye (which I don't really want to do) or changing to 3/8" ID which is the only size they make the uv pink in. I've heard that some reds look pink, but at this point my hands are tied. Any suggestions?


----------



## KillerBeaz

yeah most reds that i've seen end up looking pink in the end, so i would just do that, or you could look through the rigs in here and when you find one w/ pink looking tubes, pm the owner to see what he's using ... if you don't mind me asking why do you want pink in the first place?


----------



## Yogi

Just got my gray tubing! Time to finally put this i7 under water.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Hey guys!

I have some stuff for sale if anyone is interested:

EK Classified 3xSLI Full Board Waterblock $100 shipped
EVGA x58 Classified 3xSLI e759 (NF200 version) $350
3x EVGA GTX 280s - $200 each $550 for all three
and my case for $250 shipped

I have decided i need a smaller computer, this thing is a pain to carry to LANs.

I am gonna get an EVGA x58 Micro and an EVGA GTX 480 Hydro copper and build my own case that is small and easy to manage.


----------



## infinite illusions

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KillerBeaz* 
yeah most reds that i've seen end up looking pink in the end, so i would just do that, or you could look through the rigs in here and when you find one w/ pink looking tubes, pm the owner to see what he's using ... if you don't mind me asking why do you want pink in the first place?


Creating a custom build. I'll be posting the pics up in here when its completed.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Just installed the EK waterblock and 120 radiator. Now its time to go back and do some cable management...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey Tennobanzai, how well does that NB cooler work? I am planning on getting the x58 micro and it has the same cooler. unfortunately there are no full board blocks available for it though.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

hey Tennobanzai, how well does that NB cooler work? I am planning on getting the x58 micro and it has the same cooler. unfortunately there are no full board blocks available for it though.

It works decent for being passive. I think the models other then the LE/Micro work better, but it still keeps my temps in the safe zone. After 1 hour of Prime95 the temp was 55C.

If you do get the Micro, make sure you change the TIM. Before i was getting around the 60-80C, now its around 40-60C depending on load. Overall, it does the job well if you change the TIM and if you're not overclocked at all, it seemed to be great.

Edit: What do you mean by Full board blocks? You mean WC? EK makes this one for the LE, but i'm not sure if it will fit a micro
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/94...c313s858#blank


----------



## Yogi

Setting up my loop right now and need some help! It kinks too much going from GPU -> NB and this seems like the best way. Think its worth it or should I leave it without the NB.

Pump --> GPU --> CPU -->NB --> Rad --> res -- >pump


----------



## JE Nightmare

could you spell that out or use arrows lol i'm a bit confused, like always.


----------



## Yogi

Opps!
Res --> pump --> GPU --> CPU -->NB --> Rad --> res -- >pump

There you go.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Opps!
Res --> pump --> GPU --> CPU -->NB --> Rad --> res -- >pump

There you go.

Even with a 45 degree coming off the gpu it still kinks to much? if that 45 would help, you wouldn't need that long tube going from the nb to the rad and you could just run it straight from cpu ( granted order would get switched to gpu>nb>cpu )


----------



## Yogi

I dont have any 45s and noone has the black sparkles in stock







. GPU->NB->CPU->Rad is how I want to have it. Im just gunna run it lke in the pic and then in a few months when I need to flush my loop or if I get another card Ill get some 45s









Also my room just got invaded by ants


----------



## bundymania

From time to time, iÂ´m testing new Prototypes of watercooling parts for different companies. This new CPU Waterblock is made in germany and compatible for different sockets:



















 

Price and Releasedate is not known yet. Performance is ok, but canÂ´t beat the Top Waterblocks


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
From time to time, iÂ´m testing new Prototypes of watercooling parts for different companies. This new CPU Waterblock is made in germany and compatible for different sockets:

Price and Releasedate is not known yet. Performance is ok, but canÂ´t beat the Top Waterblocks










Those are nice blocks but they look a little bit cheap!?

What is the best CPU waterblock at the moment?


----------



## Chilly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS* 
Those are nice blocks but they look a little bit cheap!?

What is the best CPU waterblock at the moment?

The best performing CPU waterblocks are Apogee XT, HEATKILLER Ver3.0, and the EK-Supreme HF


----------



## arcanemyth

Case: HAF 932
Cpu: Phenom ll X4 3.4 clocked @ 4.0 temps Idle: 26c / full load: 39c Prime95 stable 24 hrs
Mobo: Biostar TA890FXE
Cooling: Custom water- cpu block EK supreme HF gold plated, EK rad 120x2 Push/pull setup, pump Swiftech mcp655, Feser 1/2inch ID Tubbing, Thermal paste ICDiamond 7
RAM: 8gigs adata gaming
GFX: Nvidia GT 240- Zalman HSF
Psu: Kingwin Mach 1 modular 700w
OS: Linux


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS* 
Those are nice blocks but they look a little bit cheap!?

What is the best CPU waterblock at the moment?

Look in my Signature pls, there you find the biggest CPU Waterblock Review available worldwide


----------



## Orestes

Here is an update on my second build so you can update my info on the first post.










almost finished, just have to figure out why my first hotswap bay isn't working


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
Here is an update on my second build so you can update my info on the first post.










almost finished, just have to figure out why my first hotswap bay isn't working









The white lighting up top there is bit...bright. Is your camara as bad as mine at taking shots of "lighting"?.


----------



## airplaneman

Hey OP, the link next to my name on the front page is wrong.. I don't mind, but if you wanna fix it that'd be sweet.


----------



## LokSupguller

Hey guys, i dont have a watercooling setup YET but I want to know how I can clean a radiator which I have already, the XSPC RX240.

Some of the fins are bent, and I think a little brownish orange colour makes them 'rusted' i think or corroded.
How do I clean the fins? There's alot of dust in between the radiators. Could running tap water through the radiator between the fins be alright?


----------



## Lu(ky

*MSI* pron....


----------



## fshizl

Still working on it... almost done.


----------



## Exek

Awesome rigs Lucky and fshizl, i like the quality photos.


----------



## Balthazor

This is actually a re-build of a Puget Systems computer; I stripped out almost everything and built it from the ground up using new components.

Components used:

Antec P193 case
Gigabyte x58a-UD7 motherboard
Intel 980-x CPU
2 x Sapphire 5970 OC
Creative X-Fi Titanium Champion
Killer 2100
6 x 2GB Kingston RAM (@ 1600 MHz / 8-8-8-24-2T)
1200W Thermaltake Toughpower PSU
3 x 160 GB Intel X-25 SSDs
1TB WD Caviar Black HD
Blu-ray RW

Cooling:

EK x58a-UD7 full-cover block
Koolance VID-597 v2 GPU blocks
Koolance CPU-360 v1.1 block & Indigo Extreme
Koolance RP-1000
Koolance TMS-200 Control Board
Koolance EHX-1320 4 x 120mm radiator & shroud (fans replaced)
Thermaltake TMG-1 120mm radiator & shroud
5 x Koolance 12025HBK 120mm fans (on the radiators)
Gelid Wing PL12 120mm fan (rear exhaust)
Notcua NF-P12 120mm fan (PSU / HD compartment intake)
200mm Antec Big Boy (side intake)

I have the front 120mm fans and 200mm side fan as intake, with the top-mounted EHX-1320 in a pull configuration exhausting air, along with the rear exhaust fan. I changed the EHX-1320 to pull air out of the case because a lot of cat hair was getting sucked into the radiator, and it was causing quite a mess. Much less trouble with that now that I changed the fans' directions. My cat loves to sit on top of my computer, unfortunately.

I also added in a Koolance TMS-200 control board, which can be mounted in a 5.25 bay and connected internally using a motherboard USB header. This board has connections for sensor inputs and control headers for fans and a pump. I connected a Koolance FM-17 flow sensor to it (right before the EHX-1320 radiator), as well as five temperature sensors, including a Koolance inline water sensor (right after the chipset.) The TMS-200 allows me greater control over pump and fan speeds, letting me ramp up cooling only when necessary based on the temperature sensors.

While the RP-1000 has some of this functionality, you can't customize the the fan profile like you can on the TMS-200.

Loop is pump-> 4x120mm rad -> cpu -> 120mm rad -> GPUs -> chipset

   
    

The original Puget system; I kept the GPUs (although updated the water blocks), the PSU (added some PSU cable extenders to route MB power cables behind the motherboard tray, the hard drives, optical drive, the X-Fi, the RP-1000, RAM and HyperX fan, and the EHX-1320 shroud & radiator (fans replaced.)


----------



## Chalaska

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Balthazor* 
This is actually a re-build of a Puget Systems computer; I stripped out almost everything and built it from the ground up using new components.

Components used:

Antec P193 case
Gigabyte x58a-UD7 motherboard
Intel 980-x CPU
2 x Sapphire 5970 OC
Creative X-Fi Titanium Champion
Killer 2100
6 x 2GB Kingston RAM (@ 1600 MHz / 8-8-8-24-2T)
1200W Thermaltake Toughpower PSU
3 x 160 GB Intel X-25 SSDs
1TB WD Caviar Black HD
Blu-ray RW

Cooling:

EK x58a-UD7 full-cover block
Koolance VID-597 v2 GPU blocks
Koolance CPU-360 v1.1 block & Indigo Extreme
Koolance RP-1000
Koolance TMS-200 Control Board
Koolance EHX-1320 4 x 120mm radiator & shroud (fans replaced)
Thermaltake TMG-1 120mm radiator & shroud
5 x Koolance 12025HBK 120mm fans (on the radiators)
Gelid Wing PL12 120mm fan (rear exhaust)
Notcua NF-P12 120mm fan (PSU / HD compartment intake)
200mm Antec Big Boy (side intake)

I have the front 120mm fans and 200mm side fan as intake, with the top-mounted EHX-1320 in a pull configuration exhausting air, along with the rear exhaust fan. I changed the EHX-1320...


Sweet mother of jesus.


----------



## 21276

CPU Block - Swiftech Apogee GT (Hopefully XT next week)
Pump - Swiftech MCP-655b
Radiator - Swiftech MCR320Qp
Res - Swiftech MicroRes
Fans - YateLoon D12SL-12
Tubing - Clear stuff I don't remember the name of..


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
Here is an update on my second build so you can update my info on the first post.

almost finished, just have to figure out why my first hotswap bay isn't working









I had the same issue, just be sure to slide it correctly in it, dont use force up or down, just slide it gently and straight inside the tray


----------



## phillipjos

First time water cooler this is a easy fix to cooling your cpu,the 130 watt i7 genarates alot of heat vs the 65 watt,my swiftec idles at 28c now @3.6 and load s at 56c with prime.









By phillipjos at 2010-07-30


----------



## yutzybrian

@Balthazor That is the most Koolance stuff I have ever seen in one case lol


----------



## Balthazor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yutzybrian* 
@Balthazor That is the most Koolance stuff I have ever seen in one case lol

It was my first time 'building' a liquid cooled system. Next time I'll look at some other options.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Hey OP, the link next to my name on the front page is wrong.. I don't mind, but if you wanna fix it that'd be sweet.

would you mind finding your post for me and posting the permalink to it? I would be glad to fix my mistake, I just can't find your post.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Hey, guys, am I doing it right?


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth* 








Hey, guys, am I doing it right?

uber

temps?LOL


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Whatever I want them to be!


----------



## Freakn

Well I'm finally going to be able to post an actuall loop in here shortly.

It'll be a bit different, but it'll be "Water Cooled"


----------



## Yogi

#370 on the list and post #6 kevin









Heres a sneak peak of the new loop


----------



## JE Nightmare

i'm lovin it man, can't wait to see it all finished.


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
#370 on the list and post #6 kevin









Heres a sneak peak of the new loop


That color combination would go well with the newer version of the EVGA x58 SLI.


----------



## Yogi

I know I always look at those boards and wanna get one.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Now iÂ´m testing the Prototype - itÂ´s a good performer, but canÂ´t beat the etablished brands like EK, Aquacomputer etc.


----------



## x9999

Loop: HW GTX480, 2x MCP655's, EK Supreme HF, 2x EK 5850 Nickel


----------



## Chicken Patty

massive! Great though.


----------



## bundymania

Such a Big Case and the Rad is outside....a bit strange, eh ?!


----------



## smartasien

x9999 - first time i've seen navy tubing???

bundymania - at least it'll run a tad cooler than inside the case.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

And you have a lot more room inside the case


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tzillian

just got the 800D Setting up a new loop on it. when im done ill post it. but i got the fans and red set up inside the case. more than enough room.


----------



## Lu(ky

Today I finished my friends MSI build.. Case was Powder Coated BLUE METALLIC and SILVER METALLIC
Intel i7-860
MSI P55 Micro
MSI 460GTX 1GB Cyclone
Corsair 620HX
Intel 80GB SSD V2
Samsung F3 1TB


----------



## Freakn

Here's my first WC loop, its all still in the testing phase's and thing will evolve plus so far I'm only working with my folding rig.

Don't want to kill anything I can't afford to replace as yet.

Block: Apogee GTZ SE
Pump: 5 watt Submersible pond pump
Rad/Res: Huge plastic tub







So far on my Athlon II 630 with only a slight over clock from 2.8 to 3.0 it idles @ 13 and under folding load its seams to of stabilised @ 32 deg C wirh an ambient of 30 deg C (estimate).

I've got a few idea's to aid cooling a bit more.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freakn* 
So far on my Athlon II 630 with only a slight over clock from 2.8 to 3.0 it idles @ 13 and under folding load its seams to of stabilised @ 32 deg C wirh an ambient of 30 deg C (estimate).

Wait, wait, wait. How are you getting below ambient temperatures? That is defying the laws of thermodynamics.

@Lu(ky, _*drools*_


----------



## Freakn

I'll find a thermometer and measure the water and the room.

Room temp was estimate but I'll get some actual temps and go again.

Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong.

Update:

So found a thermometer and room temp is currently 22 degC cores idle at 23/24 degC, water temp is showing 25 degC.

Apologies for the mislead.

P.s. the 13 idle was also from first thing in the morning, ambients would alot cooling then as well


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freakn* 
I'll find a thermometer and measure the water and the room.

Room temp was estimate but I'll get some actual temps and go again.

Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong.

Update:

So found a thermometer and room temp is currently 22 degC cores idle at 23/24 degC, water temp is showing 25 degC.

Apologies for the mislead.

P.s. the 13 idle was also from first thing in the morning, ambients would alot cooling then as well

shouldn't you get a lid so it doesn't evaporate?


----------



## Freakn

I've got a lid but I'm still messing with things.

Going to try to set it up like a horizontal bong cooler with a couple of fans, some thing along those lines.

I'm leaving it the way it is for a few days to get some good averages before I make the extra mods.


----------



## ecaftermath

Pump is waterproof? Is that the pump submerged in water?


----------



## Freakn

Well I really hope it is waterproof or I'm in trouble!

It's designed for water features and garden ponds.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Pump is waterproof? Is that the pump submerged in water?

there are certain types of pumps called submersible pumps that are intended to be put IN the water.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

How cool does that delicious MSI Cyclone 460GTX get?


----------



## bundymania

Now iÂ´m testing the new CPU Waterblock from Aquacomputer.de - ItÂ´s called KYROS and looks like this in the Nickel Version:



















ItÂ´s already available - prices between 40 Euro (Delrin Version) and 180 Euro (925er Silver Version) This one on the pics costs ~ 65 EUR. Performance is slightly better then the Heatkiller !


----------



## 21276

Says updated, but no Flatliner?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *flatliner* 
says updated, but no flatliner?









#81


----------



## ny_driver

update me!

rad (inside freezer)>gpu>gpu>cpu>res>pump>rad(inside freezer)

Please go here to see that all potential problems have already been pointed out and thought of prior to that pointing out.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

lol, ceiling mounted pc...

I think that deserves an award.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated with new award ;-)


----------



## ny_driver

Awesome...thanks man!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Awesome...thanks man!









np. ;-)

btw, what temps are you getting?


----------



## jrgull13

Is that a freezer?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
rad (inside freezer)>gpu>gpu>cpu>res>pump>rad(inside freezer)


Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
Is that a freezer?

I'm going to go ahead and guess that it is indeed a freezer.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
I'm going to go ahead and guess that it is indeed a freezer.









Yea, I just looked at his build log thingy

And I'm an idiot. Lol.


----------



## ny_driver

I'm posting temperature results as they come in over in my build log thingy.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
I'm going to go ahead and guess that it is indeed a freezer.









lol...ty


----------



## bundymania

ItÂ´s Rasatime again









This new Black Edition is available in several EU Shops for about ~ 50 $


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I ordered two (because that was all performance-pcs had left) of the three GPU blocks I need for my rig last night!










and I grabbed one of these sli bridges for them:










If anyone knows of a store that still has one more of the Heatkiller G200 waterblocks in stock or sees a used one anywhere let me know, I cannot seem to find another one. :-(


----------



## bundymania

Hmm, i guess youÂ´re searchinÂ´ for a shop in the States only, right ? ItÂ´s not a big problem to get this Waterblock here in Europe @forums marketplaces or ebay.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Hmm, i guess youÂ´re searchinÂ´ for a shop in the States only, right ? ItÂ´s not a big problem to get this Waterblock here in Europe @forums marketplaces or ebay.

well, if there is someplace willing to ship to the US then i would probably go for it.


----------



## ny_driver

Since we are on the subject...I need a 3rd EK FC4890-LT waterblock new or used shipped to the states.

Looks like to order it new would be ~$90-100 shipped.

EDIT: help me please...my third card is on it's way now.


----------



## bundymania

I found one:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...00::12040.html

But iÂ´m not sure, if CK ships to the states :

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Shipping:_:61.html

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Contact:_:7.html


----------



## phillipjos

heres my first try at water cooling









By phillipjos at 2010-08-02


----------



## ny_driver

Have you ever tried removing the side cover?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
I found one:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...00::12040.html

But iÂ´m not sure, if CK ships to the states :

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Shipping:_:61.html

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Contact:_:7.html

thanks, but they don't ship to USA. :-(


----------



## phillipjos

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Have you ever tried removing the side cover?









who? i have a clear HAF-932 side cover to show off my w/cing parts,i have another 80mm rad i mite put in or build a 775 rig.


----------



## rzs77

Hello people. I've finally managed to upgrade my rig. Here are some pics. Feel free to comment








































































and I also managed to change the stock RV02 Blue LED to Red to better match my whole theme


----------



## mastical

^^ Good job and great pics.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
^^ Good job and great pics.

Thanks!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

also fixed airplaneman's entry


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I ordered two (because that was all performance-pcs had left) of the three GPU blocks I need for my rig last night!










and I grabbed one of these sli bridges for them:










If anyone knows of a store that still has one more of the Heatkiller G200 waterblocks in stock or sees a used one anywhere let me know, I cannot seem to find another one. :-(


Holy crap that SLI bridge is insane!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Holy crap that SLI bridge is insane!

yea, that was the deciding factor for actually go with those blocks.







I think it looks awesome.


----------



## ny_driver

I never checked to see if my crossfire bridge got warm.







it's probably just for looks right?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I never checked to see if my crossfire bridge got warm.







it's probably just for looks right?

I think you are confused as to what that is.

it is for this:










there is no need to cool an sli bridge.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

That stuff looks really hot Kevin, I cant wait to see it in your build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
That stuff looks really hot Kevin, I cant wait to see it in your build

















me either.

I am gonna have to do something about that copper though, totally doesn't match my build.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Is powdercoating a bad idea for a copper heatsink? **hint**


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Is powdercoating a bad idea for a copper heatsink? **hint**









haha, i am too poor for powder, but they will be painted

just another pic of the SLI bridge (i think these are gtx260s though):


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, i am too poor for powder, but they will be painted

just another pic of the SLI bridge (i think these are gtx260s though):










3 280's in sli, all 3 watercooled with heatkiller blocks and you are poor?








I wish I had some stuff like that...








It'll look cool anyways


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
3 280's in sli, all 3 watercooled with heatkiller blocks and you are poor?








I wish I had some stuff like that...








It'll look cool anyways









haha, you have a point there...

but I have emptied my bank account on this build 3-4 times now...

I am such an irresponsible college kid when it comes to spending money.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, you have a point there...

but I have emptied my bank account on this build 3-4 times now...

Just wait a few days so you can empty it for the 5th time








Nah, I do not encourage you to go broke, couldnt stand it if you would have to sell your rig...


----------



## ny_driver

Ohh I see







, but then you can't see if there is any air in the waterblocks when you are turning them this way and that to burp them.

The hardest part of my current build was getting ALL of the air out of the vga blocks, but they are upside down


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Is powdercoating a bad idea for a copper heatsink? **hint**









As long as the bottom isn't painted (obviously, but there could be blonde chicks reading this so this disclaimer is needed.







)


----------



## Exek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, i am too poor for powder, but they will be painted

just another pic of the SLI bridge (i think these are gtx260s though):

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c5...y25/hondaa.jpg

Like kartman sayed, awesome-o.
Cant wait to check result in your new mini case project.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Exek* 
Like kartman sayed, awesome-o.
Cant wait to check result in your new mini case project.









not sure when the mini build will happen... I decided to go ahead and finish my full build first, but we will see.


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I ordered two (because that was all performance-pcs had left) of the three GPU blocks I need for my rig last night!

If anyone knows of a store that still has one more of the Heatkiller G200 waterblocks in stock or sees a used one anywhere let me know, I cannot seem to find another one. :-(

I might have one depending on how my RMA goes on one of my cards. Ill let you know


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vermillion* 
I might have one depending on how my RMA goes on one of my cards. Ill let you know

that would be awesome. I am willing to pay a decent price for it since i am now committed to using those blocks.


----------



## cRaZyEddie187

rzs77 said:


> Hello people. I've finally managed to upgrade my rig. Here are some pics. Feel free to comment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude get rid of the dyed coolant!!!! It clogs everything overtime as it breaks down. So unless you want to flush your loop every 3 months then run *PURE DISTILLED ONLY*... trust me all your beautiful components will thank me for saving their lives!!!!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yea, that was the deciding factor for actually go with those blocks.







I think it looks awesome.

Got a link to it, sorry if I missed it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Got a link to it, sorry if I missed it.

im sorry, what?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
im sorry, what?

the SLI bridge. sorry.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25227


----------



## Orestes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
The white lighting up top there is bit...bright. Is your camara as bad as mine at taking shots of "lighting"?.


Yeah, its like a 3.0MP camera on my blackberry. I'm trying to get my buddy to let me borrow his DSLR but he's real weird with his camers :\\


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
Yeah, its like a 3.0MP camera on my blackberry. I'm trying to get my buddy to let me borrow his DSLR but he's real weird with his camers :\\

I feel yea. It would be good to have a nice camara. Sadly though, I keep buying more WC gear instead.

Well I don't mean to rain on Kevins parade, but I received a little something in the mail today that has me so excited I'm doing backflips.


















I was able to get this at a great price, and I'm almost feeling guilty now. The "fit and finish" of this reservoir is quite simply amazing. It is going to be a very long week, cause it's getting installed this weekend hopefully.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

my parade does not exist to be rained on. 

those are so hot, congrats man.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
my parade does not exist to be rained on. 

those are so hot, congrats man.

Gratz back at ya', that GPU block system is incredible!


----------



## oliverw92

Kevin, get the blocks anodised. It is a very cheap process, you should be able to get it done for not very much. It would be a MUCH better idea than painting them!


----------



## caraboose

I'd get you guys pictures of my 'redesigned' loop (basically I sleeved the tubing and it looks really nice imo) but my camera pooped out at the airshow last week







so I'll have to wait to give you guys new pictures for a few weeks or months.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Kevin, get the blocks anodised. It is a very cheap process, you should be able to get it done for not very much. It would be a MUCH better idea than painting them!

I like that idea. 

I will have to check prices.

although last time i checked prices on anodizing around here it was still pretty expensive...


----------



## rzs77

cRaZyEddie187 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rzs77*
> Hello people. I've finally managed to upgrade my rig. Here are some pics. Feel free to comment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude get rid of the dyed coolant!!!! It clogs everything overtime as it breaks down. So unless you want to flush your loop every 3 months then run *PURE DISTILLED ONLY*... trust me all your beautiful components will thank me for saving their lives!!!!
> 
> thanks for the heads up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i did use distilled water before but couldn't resist the urge. The red thermochill EC6 was calling at me


----------



## oliverw92

Thermochill EC6 is an excellent coolant, you have nothing to worry about. They test each of their colours for over a year before releasing them. rzs77, you are massively overstating the problem of coloured coolants.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Thermochill EC6 is an excellent coolant, you have nothing to worry about. They test each of their colours for over a year before releasing them. rzs77, you are massively overstating the problem of coloured coolants.

Haha...I think there has been a misunderstanding and also due to the fact that cRaZyEddie187 didn't quote me properly. I was quoting him and responding to his post --> #3375.


----------



## oliverw92

Oh yeah lmao







cRaZyEddie187: you are massively overstating the problem of coloured coolants.


----------



## tzillian

ive really been wanting to used a colored coolant. this thermochill ec6 is actually pretty good then? where did u get the red one from??


----------



## oliverw92

Well i live in the UK so it is easy for me to get it. EC6 is the only coolant i will use now, except for distilled water.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
ive really been wanting to used a colored coolant. this thermochill ec6 is actually pretty good then? where did u get the red one from??

I get them from a local seller. I'm from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Well i live in the UK so it is easy for me to get it. EC6 is the only coolant i will use now, except for distilled water.

Is it safe to say that it's the best coolant? Cos I recommended it to a customer but he insisted on Aquagrafx coolant. Any comments?


----------



## oliverw92

Never heard of Aquagrafx. I would not say it is the best coolant, because i have not tried every coolant







However to me personally, it is the only one i will use.


----------



## ny_driver

Anyone live near a Microcenter and want to get me a waterblock?









Thanks.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Anyone live near a Microcenter and want to get me a waterblock?









Thanks.

what waterblock?


----------



## ny_driver

http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0310644


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

If I would live in the states, and have a MC close I would buy one for you...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

wow, that is an incredible price for that...


----------



## ny_driver

Thanks dude.









EDIT: Norfolk isn't that far from Fairfax Microcenter


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Thanks dude.









EDIT: Norfolk isn't that far from Fairfax Microcenter









4 hours away...

If I had a reason to be back in Fredericksburg (where I grew up) sometime soon I would offer to grab it for you, but 4 hours is just a bit too far, sorry.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
4 hours away...

If I had a reason to be back in Fredericksburg (where I grew up) sometime soon I would offer to grab it for you, but 4 hours is just a bit too far, sorry.

I know it's at least a couple hours, I was just kidding. I could drive to Philadelphia in the same amount of time.


----------



## fshizl




----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx159/fshizl/Computer%20Build%202010/Water%20Cooling%20Adventure/SDC11439.jpg

Your build looks hot!
The only thing I would change myselve would be the cables around the res.
I would put them behind it, in stead of blocking the view at that awesome thing







But thats just my


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Your build looks hot!
The only thing I would change myselve would be the cables around the res.
I would put them behind it, in stead of blocking the view at that awesome thing







But thats just my









lol there are many things for me to experiment still... just wanted to take a quick picture









thanks man!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
lol there are many things for me to experiment still... just wanted to take a quick picture









thanks man!

Please, take more of those quick pictures








And a computer is never finished, you'll always find things to change. And if you run out of them, you'll find yourselve buying new hardware...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ny_driver

Good news!!!

I have a buddy working ~6 miles from the Cambridge Mass. Micro Center.

So I have 1 EK FC4890 CF Acetel/Nickel Block and 2 fairly short barbs coming home Thursday night for $70.







Sweet deal huh?

We all work all over. It's crazy.

This one here but only $70 with fittings


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
lol there are many things for me to experiment still... just wanted to take a quick picture









thanks man!

That's very true bro. You've accomplished one amazing build my friend! Whether cables behind or in front of the res, keep up the great work.

However, I rather the cables behind the res though


----------



## Darkstar2

heres mine


----------



## jrgull13

just out of curiosity.. If I were to WC my xbox 360 would I be eligible to join?


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
just out of curiosity.. If I were to WC my xbox 360 would I be eligible to join?

i definitely want to see this if you do, do it
pm me a link if you do lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
just out of curiosity.. If I were to WC my xbox 360 would I be eligible to join?

Def


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
i definitely want to see this if you do, do it
pm me a link if you do lol


Oh it's gonna happen as soon as the mod in my sig is done. DIY cases for the xbox hardware AND a separate one for the WC stuff... DIY waterblock and reservoir. Also doing the ATX power supply mod since I have one of the original release 360s that's still kicking (therefore I have a wimpy PSU).


----------



## tzillian

i got a question for anyone who uses the 800D. that area where the psu goes. i know i can get a rad in there. just not sure how if i would be bale to get fans in there as well. do rads have to have fans or will their performance just be hindered by a lack of fans?

here is my proposed set up. all one loop.
2 mcp655 with ek dual D5 top (1 loop) in motherboard section of case going down to a 240 rad.
up to 2 gpu block running sli.
up to 120 rad in back of system.
up to 360 rad up top.
down to cpu block.
back to res.

360 rad up top and 120 rad in back will be set up in push/pull.


----------



## JE Nightmare

yes not having fans will hurt performance, by a fair amount actually.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
i got a question for anyone who uses the 800D. that area where the psu goes. i know i can get a rad in there. just not sure how if i would be bale to get fans in there as well. do rads have to have fans or will their performance just be hindered by a lack of fans?

here is my proposed set up. all one loop.
2 mcp655 with ek dual D5 top (1 loop) in motherboard section of case going down to a 240 rad.
up to 2 gpu block running sli.
up to 120 rad in back of system.
up to 360 rad up top.
down to cpu block.
back to res.

360 rad up top and 120 rad in back will be set up in push/pull.

Radiators need fans to function, otherwise the coolant will just stay the same temperature as the inside of your case. The moving air is what cools the coolant.(like in your car)


----------



## ny_driver

The more fresh air the better


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
The more fresh air the better









Yessir.


----------



## tzillian

damn, if anyone has any ideas im fully open.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
damn, if anyone has any ideas im fully open.

Sorry I wish I could afford an 800D and give you some insight







but money sucks.


----------



## tzillian

thats cool. how much space do i need for fans to be able to suck air in? theres also that.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
thats cool. how much space do i need for fans to be able to suck air in? theres also that.

Um you definitely want to blow the air through your radiator and OUT of the case. Not pull air in from the outside. If you do that you start blowing hot air into your case which is not what you want either. Unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you're asking...


----------



## Orestes

you can blow air into the case through the rad...the air coming off a radiator isn't really all that hot imo. If you're watercooling everything then it really isn't that big of a deal. The 800D has pretty slim options when it comes to airflow since theres no front or side intakes (only a 140mm on the bottom)

What you -could- do is cut out a 240mm rectangle on the bottom of your sidepanel and then put some mesh over it (look up the TJ07 if you don't know what I mean). you could just kinda let the radiator lay on its side with the fans pulling air through the mesh (yay for dual purpose venting/filtering?).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darkstar2* 









heres mine









I cannot see your pic...


----------



## ny_driver

Why is everyone so wrapped up in concealing the radiators within the case?

You could drill 2 holes through the back side and mount it on the outside. I don't know if that will work with mobo above psu, but there are options.

You don't want to suck that hot air inside.









Something like this......







my first w/c build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

it really doesn't matter if you have the air blowing into the case as long as you have decent exhaust...


----------



## ny_driver

I know.....just making a suggestion. The less hot air to exhaust the better.


----------



## jrgull13

Some people like the aesthetic look of having everything concealed inside the unit. I'd be one of those people


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
Some people like the aesthetic look of having everything concealed inside the unit. I'd be one of those people









same here.


----------



## kurosu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
I know.....just making a suggestion. The less hot air to exhaust the better.

My radiator blows cold air. Probably the same as the ambient temp, or not much hotter.


----------



## ny_driver

Not me......I like mine screwed to the ceiling







EDIT: with long radiator hoses. EDIT: I am going to put the radiator outside with fans in the winter time. I bet it will be pretty sweet.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Not me......I like mine screwed to the ceiling









that is on creepy "that's what she said"


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
that is on creepy "that's what she said"


----------



## Darkstar2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I cannot see your pic...

strange i will try again


----------



## Darkstar2

hows about that?


----------



## Darkstar2

never mind thats well to small


----------



## ny_driver

It's full sized if you click on it. Looks pretty nice.


----------



## Darkstar2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
It's full sized if you click on it. Looks pretty nice.









oh really?. thanks







its my first build i think its going well so far


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darkstar2* 

hows about that?

if you want it full size grab the code by quoting this post and copying and pasting into yours










added your post to the list though.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

so, who wants to see some pictures of the most complicated water blocks I have ever seen?

They just arrived and I took them apart.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
so, who wants to see some pictures of the most complicated water blocks I have ever seen?

They just arrived and I took them apart.









i do


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

I do too


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
i do


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
I do too









mmk






































































































































































































I have no idea how these blocks where only $90... they must cost twice what the $125 EK blocks do to manufacture. there are 4 separate blocks of copper making up each of these blocks!

also, that SLI bridge is hot.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Dang, that stuff is really hot!








How much does it weigh?


----------



## fshizl

ncie looking but wont work with my 5970







haha

or match my system


----------



## JE Nightmare

i don't know what's more awesome, the t-rex or the pink 360 controller.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Dang, that stuff is really hot!








How much does it weigh?









Each block is just over 3 pounds.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
ncie looking but wont work with my 5970







haha

or match my system

Yea, don't match mine either, but I will fix that. ;-)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
i don't know what's more awesome, the t-rex or the pink 360 controller.









It is a velociraptor. Show some respect.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
i don't know what's more awesome, the t-rex or the pink 360 controller.









Haha I love it when people find the random things in the pics.

Pics of the new loop


----------



## infinite illusions

Anyone ever use wcdyes or mayhem dyes in their loop? If so, did they gunk up at all? I have 2 different sets of tubing, one clear and the other colored uv. I really wanted a dye too. And the wcdyes look the best.


----------



## oliverw92

Yogi that is awesome! Lovely loop layout and great sleeving/cable management! MDPC sleeving right?


----------



## Orestes

Hot swap bays still aren't working, and I still have a ****ty camera







here's an update without the SSD hanging on for dear life in the middle of the case.

















When are we gonna have a free DSLR OCN giveaway contest?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
It is a velociraptor. Show some respect. 

haha, my mistake.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
It is a velociraptor. Show some respect. 











I know this is very bad, but I just couldn't help myself.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Yogi that is awesome! Lovely loop layout and great sleeving/cable management! MDPC sleeving right?

Thanks, and of course its MDPC! Theres a few Furryletters in there, but I hid them in the back







. Just need some rotaries so I can get the tube from rad--> pump fully behind the mobo tray.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 









I know this is very bad, but I just couldn't help myself.

next time i post pics i will put one of those next to the picture-buddy velociraptor.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Thanks, and of course its MDPC! Theres a few Furryletters in there, but I hid them in the back







. Just need some rotaries so I can get the tube from rad--> pump fully behind the mobo tray.

I showed it to Nils, he told me to slap you for not showing him at you-know-where


----------



## Satsukeshi

First WC loop, let me know what you think!









































































Let me tell you, switching fans from intakes to outtakes while they're running is a real PITA! However, it's never a legit project without some blood and sweat, amirite?


----------



## 4.54billionyears

i have to get a black light so these black uv tubes can pop. i dont like to many lights.
used a dremel yesterday and cut out space for feser 360 radiator in top of cooler master 690 case and redid my loop.

Satsukeshi - you did a good job there.


----------



## bundymania

Here i have some new reservoirs from the italian Company Tecnofront. There are 2 versions (for 1 or 2 pumps) and 2 colors available. Price is ~ 65 Euro










http://www.tecnofront.com/


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I showed it to Nils, he told me to slap you for not showing him at you-know-where









Hahaa I put it in the DZ


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Satsukeshi* 
First WC loop, let me know what you think!

Thats an interesting build


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:
Originally Posted by Satsukeshi View Post
First WC loop, let me know what you think!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Thats an interesting build









I think it looks pretty cool.

How did you get the air out of the radiators and everything? It must be very challenging with the tubes going all over and the radiator fittings at the bottom.









Are there air-release valves or something?


----------



## Satsukeshi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Satsukeshi View Post
First WC loop, let me know what you think!

I think it looks pretty cool.

How did you get the air out of the radiators and everything? It must be very challenging with the tubes going all over and the radiator fittings at the bottom.









Are there air-release valves or something?

That's a very interesting question, hahaha. All I can think is that the head of the pump was powerful enough to force the air though, using water for displacement. I used a pulse method of introducing water to the loop, by filling the res, and then pulsing the pump, jumping a spare PSU of mine, and then repeating as the res went towards empty.

Ran a 10 min leak test, then powered it up and left it on all night. Heard a bubble get knocked loose every now and then, and my temps did drop a bit in that time, but now it's pretty level.... But that does pose an interesting question, I'll have to try tipping the case around a bit!


----------



## Yogi

Kevin what did you do?


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Satsukeshi* 
That's a very interesting question, hahaha, I'll have to try tipping the case around a bit!

Yeah try a lot.

I'd turn it upside-down and let it run for a couple hours...turning it this way and that-shaking it around from time to time. ***But you must leave an opening for the air to escape also***, which can be tough with the res mounted within the case.

Man with that white tubing you probably cannot see the air bubbles either.

EDIT: definitely disconnect the power from the board and stuff while doing this.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Satsukeshi* 
First WC loop, let me know what you think!

Let me tell you, switching fans from intakes to outtakes while they're running is a real PITA! However, it's never a legit project without some blood and sweat, amirite?









That looks very good bro. You should be very proud your first WC loop looked like that!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Here i have some new reservoirs from the italian Company Tecnofront. There are 2 versions (for 1 or 2 pumps) and 2 colors available. Price is ~ 65 Euro

Me likey!


----------



## PizzaMan

The pizza closet. Not built for looks. I gets messiest loop?


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PizzaMan* 
The pizza closet. Not built for looks. I gets messiest loop?

I vote for that one. Hehe that's messier than some of the DICE runs I've seen.


----------



## Chicken Patty

"Unusual, but effective!"


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Kevin what did you do?









By build is just so awesome that it takes over the entire site. 

honestly have no idea what happened there... your browser replaced the online button with my avatar for some reason...


----------



## caraboose

So I got it back up..
My DSLR still broken, but I borrowed my moms camera.








And then just because I had to, I cooked the butt off this HDR, don't judge me


----------



## Liighthead

some really nice looops









but would it be worth me getting wcing?

i mean my axp-140 cools my cpu at around 40 - 42 degrees.... load
would it really be worth it? i wont be ocing any more..


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
some really nice looops









but would it be worth me getting wcing?

i mean my axp-140 cools my cpu at around 40 - 42 degrees.... load
would it really be worth it? i wont be ocing any more..

no honestly.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Interesting sleeving on the tubing







Looks great.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hmm, google spreadsheet seems to be down atm..

edit:
nvm, updated


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *caraboose* 
So I got it back up..
My DSLR still broken, but I borrowed my moms camera.
*snip*
*snip*

Awesome tube sleeving







. Hows the temps with the dual loop?


----------



## bundymania

WOW PizzaMan, that Rad looks interesting ! More Pics pls


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *caraboose* 
So I got it back up..
My DSLR still broken, but I borrowed my moms camera.









Sleeving on tubes? Looks sexy.


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

how do you guys get the camera icon on your profile on the left?

i uploaded pics to member gallery and nothing yet

anything i am suppose to do specific?


----------



## bundymania

IÂ´m not sure, if i already posted this:










ItÂ´s a Bench/Testtable from italian manufacturer Tecnofront


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey bundy, is that bench big enough to fit a classified e759/e760?

updated


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey bundy, is that bench big enough to fit a classified e759/e760?

updated

Is that board e-atx? if it is it wont fit, looks like bundy has go an atx board on it.
I might be wrong though


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Is that board e-atx? if it is it wont fit, looks like bundy has go an atx board on it.
I might be wrong though









yea, I was looking at the pics and I suspect it will not fit, that is why i asked.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yea, I was looking at the pics and I suspect it will not fit, that is why i asked.

It'll hang a bit over the edge, thats all


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
It'll hang a bit over the edge, thats all









actually, it looks like it might interfere with those pass through fittings on the edge that bundy isnt using.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
actually, it looks like it might interfere with those pass through fittings on the edge that bundy isnt using.

You should be able to remove them I guess. (hammer!)


----------



## caraboose

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Awesome tube sleeving







. Hows the temps with the dual loop?

I'm not sure now that I've cleaned the cpu block. I know the GPU idles at 24*c and peaks with 100%(ish) load at 32*c.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
IÂ´m not sure, if i already posted this:










ItÂ´s a Bench/Testtable from italian manufacturer Tecnofront









Sexy. What GPU is that?


----------



## KillerBeaz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 










ItÂ´s a Bench/Testtable from italian manufacturer Tecnofront

very nice... i think i'm leaning towards getting this instead of the danger den torture rack...


----------



## tzillian

hey guys, anyone know if theres retail places that sell pumps? looking fo a mcp 655 and hate waiting.

also, whats the difference between the 655 and the 655b?

thanks.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
hey guys, anyone know if theres retail places that sell pumps? looking fo a mcp 655 and hate waiting.

frys or microcenter


----------



## Pascal1973

My Radiator-Cart.....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

that is pretty impressive...


----------



## Pascal1973

Thanx, its an update from 2 5970's.I relocated 2nd pump, got me 3 gtx480's and a Strider 1500.Here's a pic of the old version.









Check my sig for more pics.


----------



## ny_driver

Aww that makes me so mad







.....I received my 3rd 4890 from RMA yesterday and my 3rd waterblock came and the card doesn't work!

I'm so glad I didn't just assume the card would work and crack the loop. I saved myself a ton of work by testing the card first.

What a let down though.


----------



## bundymania

@caraboose: ItÂ´s a Block from Alphacool, GP3X

http://www.alphacool.com/product_inf...0---X1900.html

@kevin: yes you can dismount those pass through fittings, but iÂ´m not sure if the board fits. maybe this pic helps:

http://www.tecnofront.com/hwd_01_it.htm

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25681

@KillerBeaz: That italian Benchtable is ok for the price, but the acrylic material from the DD rack is afaik thicker, like the one from Microcool (Banchetto)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25498

Personally i would go for the Banchetto, which iÂ´m using since ~ 1 1/2 years. The overall quality is better in my opinion and its more stable because of the metal parts !


----------



## ny_driver

If I decide to get a case it will certainly be that type.


----------



## bundymania

Ok here i go again - some Banchetto Pics, requested by KillerBeaz:


----------



## tzillian

still needs some clean up and straightening up but prob be ready this weekend. quick question, i have my gtx 480 in my 3rd pci slot on the R3E. anyone know if thats gonna be a problem. will it work fine there?


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
still needs some clean up and straightening up but prob be ready this weekend. quick question, i have my gtx 480 in my 3rd pci slot on the R3E. anyone know if thats gonna be a problem. will it work fine there?

Depends on your board, some of those SLI boards require the card to be in a specified slot depending on how many cards you have in there. Usually if you only have one it's in the top slot.


----------



## Pascal1973

look at page 2-28 of your motherboard manual, if you use 1 VGA, use slot #1.You can try and see what happens though, in my manual they say the same, but i didn.t have a problem using other slots.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Some Detailphotos of my Dimastech Benchtable Setup:


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

You've got too much stuff over there bundy...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

Bundy, that benchtable is just awesome. I have to get me one someday!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

I'm wating on a metal clemens one from Oliver








No eta yet though, he's not even making it yet if I'm right. I really cant wait though...


----------



## oliverw92

Forgot to tell you bassie, no go yet on the tech bench







My laser cutter guy almost got caught by his boss last time he did stuff for me and his mate who does the actual cutting is leaving so he needs to chat up the new guy before anymore can be done. There is no way he could do anything as large as the tech bench now though. Which is sad


----------



## frozenicex

Some pics with WC setup on HAF-X

New XSPC Reservoir for MCP655









Push Pull Setup

























[/B]


----------



## ny_driver

Hey I was wondering approximately how much lower my temps would be if I added another radiator with fans?

Right now I have 2 x 4890 and my 1055T in the loop using only 1 x 240mm rad.

Anyways I am adding another 4890 to the loop soon. So how much will adding a 2nd 240mm radiator(or larger) gain me temperature wise?

What would be a good choice? Remember I have lots of room for another radiator.

EDIT: no longer using the freezer.

2nd EDIT: or would it be way better to get a 2nd rad, pump, and res, and go for 2 loops?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PizzaMan* 
The pizza closet. Not built for looks. I gets messiest loop?










What tubing is that? I'm on the prowl for nice green tubing and that stuff looks pretty decent.

*hopes it isn't just coolant*


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
What tubing is that? I'm on the prowl for nice green tubing and that stuff looks pretty decent.

*hopes it isn't just coolant*

He is using coolant and it looks like HydrX.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
What tubing is that? I'm on the prowl for nice green tubing and that stuff looks pretty decent.

*hopes it isn't just coolant*

It looks a lot like coolant...

I've used Primochill's UV green tubing and I think it looks pretty good.


----------



## PizzaMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
He is using coolant and it looks like HydrX.

This^^^

It's cheap and works great.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Well, that's a shame. I have some beautiful green coolant already but am trying to find some nice green tubing as my T-Virus arrived yesterday and I've decided to go for clear liquid this time to show off the helices inside it. Never mind


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Hey I was wondering approximately how much lower my temps would be if I added another radiator with fans?

Right now I have 2 x 4890 and my 1055T in the loop using only 1 x 240mm rad.

Anyways I am adding another 4890 to the loop soon. So how much will adding a 2nd 240mm radiator(or larger) gain me temperature wise?

What would be a good choice? Remember I have lots of room for another radiator.

EDIT: no longer using the freezer.

2nd EDIT: or would it be way better to get a 2nd rad, pump, and res, and go for 2 loops?

I don't think that a completely separate loop would be any better than 2 rads on one loop. I would suggest getting a triple radiator, then put your 4890's on that, and your 1055T on the dual.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

This arrived yesterday




































Can finally hook up some form of water loop to get my system back under water


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
This arrived yesterday









Can finally hook up some form of water loop to get my system back under water









Holy crap, that is the nicest looking Liquid Fusion res I've ever seen. I wish I got black/red now..


----------



## Chicken Patty

That Frozen Q res looks amazing, I have always been a huge fan of them.


----------



## wermad

New gpu set up


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Alex did an incredible job with the T-Virus res. I know he's put a lot of effort into making them and improving them too. To finally receive it and see first hand just how beautifully built it was.... well, it was quite cool







Will be good fun to set it up and see how it looks with some liquid in it and the cathode going.


----------



## oliverw92

Are your endcaps acetal or aluminium, Krissy? I know he has just started making a new revision which is even better - solid acetal end caps which are threaded so the tube screws in instead of being glued.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Are your endcaps acetal or aluminium, Krissy? I know he has just started making a new revision which is even better - solid acetal end caps which are threaded so the tube screws in instead of being glued.

from the pictures ive seen it looks like the end caps are acetal... same design as the i and h stealth res..


----------



## Jay Scott

I would like to join this club in the near future as I'm looking to set up my first watercooling loop of my sig rig, however as it's my first time I want to make sure I get it absolutely right, if some of you could take a look at the thread I started asking members to critique my loop setup and components I would really appreciate it.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...e-my-loop.html

Thanks in advance.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Are your endcaps acetal or aluminium, Krissy? I know he has just started making a new revision which is even better - solid acetal end caps which are threaded so the tube screws in instead of being glued.

I'm honestly not sure. It doesn't feel like aluminium. When I ordered from him, it was before this latest revision, however that one got lost in the mail and the next one he made was actually sent out a day after he announced he had made changes to the reservoirs, so I believe I may actually have one of these new revisions.


----------



## oliverw92

Can you get a pic of the top of it? If it is solid and isn't made up of a tube and then a shiny plastic circle then it is acetal and you have a dam nice piece of kit


----------



## c49

Taken on my cellphone, and yes I know my board is super-blinky. I wish it wasn't. Still need to do cable management but I'm soooo lazy


----------



## Born4TheSky

sexy


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *c49* 
Taken on my cellphone, and yes I know my board is super-blinky. I wish it wasn't. Still need to do cable management but I'm soooo lazy

looks nice


----------



## Chunkylad

Still in testing stages but add me in.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunkylad* 
Still in testing stages but add me in.

The "thumbs up", and the "consequences will never be the same" sign certainly brought a smile to my face







. One question though, how are you going to get the bay res into the bay? Looks like the tubing from the GPU is kinda short.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
The "thumbs up", and the "consequences will never be the same" sign certainly brought a smile to my face







. One question though, how are you going to get the bay res into the bay? Looks like the tubing from the GPU is kinda short.

i was wondering the same thing, that tubing won't reach the front of the case.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
i was wondering the same thing, that tubing won't reach the front of the case.

Would be hillariouse if he didnt think of it..


----------



## hollywood406

Maybe he plans to leave it on that shelf so you can see it from the side window







I liked the consequences sign too. I guess you would have to add that since it looks like it's on the kitchen table!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Figure I'll ask in here instead of making a new thread... I'm looking to possibly do a CPU loop, but I'm looking to spend no more than $200 is it possible? Any parts recommendations are welcome as well since this would be my first WC setup.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

*daily pRon*



















I kind of want to go back to shiny fittings


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Figure I'll ask in here instead of making a new thread... I'm looking to possibly do a CPU loop, but I'm looking to spend no more than $200 is it possible? Any parts recommendations are welcome as well since this would be my first WC setup.

Completely possible. Here is a quick list of stuff:
Swiftech MCP350 - $55
EK Supreme HF Nickel/acetal - $73
Black Ice Xtreme 2 dual 120mm radiator - $60
T-fitting for a fill line - $2
4ft of Tubing - $8

Total - $198 + shipping

The biggest money saver will be going with regular barbs rather than compression fittings that are $8-$20 each. Also going with a T fitting instead of a res helps.

Edited to include links


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
Completely possible. Here is a quick list of stuff:
Swiftech MCP350 - $55
EK Supreme HF Nickel/acetal - $73
Black Ice Xtreme 2 dual 120mm radiator - $60
T-fitting for a fill line - $2
4ft of Tubing - $8

Total - $198 + shipping

The biggest money saver will be going with regular barbs rather than compression fittings that are $8-$20 each. Also going with a T fitting instead of a res helps.

Edited to include links

if you want to save money there is always a cheaper route to take but if you want damn good performance for $200 that'll do it.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
if you want to save money there is always a cheaper route to take but if you want damn good performance for $200 that'll do it.

I'm looking at maximizing the $200 budget as opposed to saving money.

Thanks for the info and links groundzero +rep


----------



## Exek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...1024X768-4.jpg

It's a one piece part ?







Looks sick.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
*daily pRon*










I kind of want to go back to shiny fittings
















Those in the know... know... shiny is where it's at


----------



## AdvanSuper

Groundzero, what if I up that budget by $50-60 with the sale of my H50?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
Completely possible. Here is a quick list of stuff:
Swiftech MCP350 - $55
EK Supreme HF Nickel/acetal - $73
Black Ice Xtreme 2 dual 120mm radiator - $60
T-fitting for a fill line - $2
4ft of Tubing - $8

Total - $198 + shipping

The biggest money saver will be going with regular barbs rather than compression fittings that are $8-$20 each. Also going with a T fitting instead of a res helps.

Edited to include links

looks nice but i would get more tubing then that, like at least 10ft. also imo i like my 1/2" barbs and 7/16" tubing and using small black zipties.

and don't forget fans!!!


----------



## raZel

My first ever loop... im pretty happy... (except for the bubbles in the radiator, and the zip tie for the pump!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
looks nice but i would get more tubing then that, like at least 10ft. also imo i like my 1/2" barbs and 7/16" tubing and using small black zipties.

and don't forget fans!!!

I already have 1 UK so I'd get another or possibly use the 4 120mm fans I have now in push/pull.


----------



## Sean W.

raZel, you need to ditch that zip tie....


----------



## Yogi

Nice first loop raZel!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Groundzero, what if I up that budget by $50-60 with the sale of my H50?

Going with a dual rad instead would drop its ~$15-20.


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
looks nice but i would get more tubing then that, like at least 10ft. also imo i like my 1/2" barbs and 7/16" tubing and using small black zipties.

and don't forget fans!!!

10ft? Lol. I did my entire older HAF 932 build with 6ft, and had a foot left over. That included separate blocks for the NB, SB, both mosfets, GPU and CPU. No way he needs 10ft just for a cpu loop.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Groundzero, what if I up that budget by $50-60 with the sale of my H50?

You can go for a beefier radiator like this one and a pump top so you can use normal barbs on it.


----------



## fastsite

May i update mine?
Heatkiller 3.0, jingway dp 600, RX120


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
May i update mine?
Heatkiller 3.0, jingway dp 600, RX120



















its like a super h50 lol


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
its like a super h50 lol

yep haha


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
its like a super h50 lol

I bet it gets way better temps. ;-)


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

I bet it gets way better temps. ;-)

haha it does i used to own an h50
ambient: 31C
h50 load: 71C
loop load: 60C


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
haha it does i used to own an h50
ambient: 31C
h50 load: 71C
loop load: 60C

thats why i said super h50, it looks nice man!


----------



## For Our Sins

couple more days and i will join







cant wait


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *For Our Sins* 
couple more days and i will join







cant wait

i cant wait to see your rig


----------



## For Our Sins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
i cant wait to see your rig









same, i got an 800d, r3e, i7 930 with (ek water block), 480 (with ek water block) and i have a 120 and 360 rad coming, hopefully tomorrow


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *For Our Sins* 
same, i got an 800d, r3e, i7 930 with (ek water block), 480 (with ek water block) and i have a 120 and 360 rad coming, hopefully tomorrow

swap that 120 for a 240

we have almost similar setup and def think the extra dual rad will help for temps


----------



## For Our Sins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy* 
swap that 120 for a 240

we have almost similar setup and def think the extra dual rad will help for temps

yea i was thinking of using a 240 but i dont really wont to cut a hole out of the bottom to fit it in, so im using the 120 on the back.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy* 
swap that 120 for a 240

we have almost similar setup and def think the extra dual rad will help for temps









why does every one think you need a 240 for a cpu loop


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *For Our Sins* 
yea i was thinking of using a 240 but i dont really wont to cut a hole out of the bottom to fit it in, so im using the 120 on the back.

woot 120 represent!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *For Our Sins* 
same, i got an 800d, r3e, i7 930 with (ek water block), 480 (with ek water block) and i have a 120 and 360 rad coming, hopefully tomorrow

You can put your PC's Spec's in here.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
woot 120 represent!









almost want to make a sig about reppin 120's.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
almost want to make a sig about reppin 120's.









there should be a club


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
there should be a club

what's stopping you.


----------



## tzillian

im gonna be modding my 800D towards the end of September to fit a 480 up top, 240 at the bottom and a 140 at the back.
Think it will everything enough? lol.

and itll be running crossfire 5970's


----------



## For Our Sins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
You can put your PC's Spec's in here.

it hasnt come yet, i will put it in there once i have it


----------



## For Our Sins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
im gonna be modding my 800D towards the end of September to fit a 480 up top, 240 at the bottom and a 140 at the back.
Think it will everything enough? lol.

and itll be running crossfire 5970's

that mod sounds awesome!

ive seen a mod were they put a 480 up top, ive also seen a 240 mod down below but never both of them together with a 140!

im gonna sub to that even though you haven't started it


----------



## Rud3Bwoy

because maybe i own my parts already and have seen how much heat my items produce when over clocked etc?

so yea 360/240 you should be good.

120 will work but temps might be a littler higher


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Nice first loop raZel!

Going with a dual rad instead would drop its ~$15-20.

I can get a 655 pump for $3 more, is it worth it? Still seeing where I can get everything else you guys link for lower.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
10ft? Lol. I did my entire older HAF 932 build with 6ft, and had a foot left over. That included separate blocks for the NB, SB, both mosfets, GPU and CPU. No way he needs 10ft just for a cpu loop.

You can go for a beefier radiator like this one and a pump top so you can use normal barbs on it.

If I go with a 120mm dual where should I mount the rad? On the outside rear or the top on the inside? I have a Cosmos 1000 case.


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I can get a 655 pump for $3 more, is it worth it? Still seeing where I can get everything else you guys link for lower.

If I go with a 120mm dual where should I mount the rad? On the outside rear or the top on the inside? I have a Cosmos 1000 case.

Top on the inside would be best. Personally I wouldn't go for the 655 because that $3 more doesn't include a pump top. Having normal barbs on the 350 will make it a lot easier to install the tubing. Also a 655 is bigger so it will be harder to fit and your case will be more crowded.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
Top on the inside would be best. Personally I wouldn't go for the 655 because that $3 more doesn't include a pump top. Having normal barbs on the 350 will make it a lot easier to install the tubing. Also a 655 is bigger so it will be harder to fit and your case will be more crowded.

Intake or exhaust fan setup?

How exactly does the pump top work? Completely assuming, does it replace the inlet/outlet on the pump itself?


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Intake or exhaust fan setup?

How exactly does the pump top work? Completely assuming, does it replace the inlet/outlet on the pump itself?

Pushing air up and out the top of your case. Yes the top replaces the inlet and outlet. Here is a pic of mine awaiting my case to be done:








Instead of a T connector for a fill line, I went with a Y shaped one connected directly to the inlet.









You can see compared to the normal pump, it moves the inlet to the top, the outlet stays on the side, and gives it standard G 1/4 threads.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
Pushing air up and out the top of your case. Yes the top replaces the inlet and outlet. Here is a pic of mine awaiting my case to be done:

Instead of a T connector for a fill line, I went with a Y shaped one connected directly to the inlet.

going to be interesting, can't wait to see pictures of this.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
Pushing air up and out the top of your case. Yes the top replaces the inlet and outlet. Here is a pic of mine awaiting my case to be done:








Instead of a T connector for a fill line, I went with a Y shaped one connected directly to the inlet.
[URL=http://i01.twenga.com/computer/waterkoeling-pomp/swiftech-mcp350-p_454741vb.png%5BIMG]http://i01.twenga.com/computer/waterkoeling-pomp/swiftech-mcp350-p_454741vb.png[IMG[/URL]]

You can see compared to the normal pump, it moves the inlet to the top, the outlet stays on the side, and gives it standard G 1/4 threads.
[/TD]
[/TR][/TABLE]
So how do you cap the fill port once the loop is filled? Just cap the filling tube you used? I think I might like the compression fittings [IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/biggrin.gif.


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raZel* 
My first ever loop... im pretty happy... (except for the bubbles in the radiator, and the zip tie for the pump!










Nice setup! That tubing is HUGE!!!







What size is it, 3/4"? My setup is almost identical, Corsair B00D, P6X58D mobo and GTX480. I'm thinking of arranging my watercooling similar. Thanks for the ideas +rep


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
So how do you cap the fill port once the loop is filled? Just cap the filling tube you used? I think I might like the compression fittings







.

He's probably going to have 4-6" of tubing attached to the compression fitting then use a plug to cap it off.


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
going to be interesting, can't wait to see pictures of this.

Keep an eye on my sig build log









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
So how do you cap the fill port once the loop is filled? Just cap the filling tube you used? I think I might like the compression fittings







.

I have a fill port integrated into the case that will cap it.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
Keep an eye on my sig build log









I have a fill port integrated into the case that will cap it.

Pics of fill port?


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Pics of fill port?

It's a pass through kind of thing that has tread for a barb/compression fitting on one side, and the other a plug.








Here's a link Just a heads up though, compression fittings made up about 30% of the cost of my loop.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Nice!

I see they are pretty pricey, but I would only need about what two for the rad, two for the block and two for the pump right?

I just don't know if I like the t-clamps or zip ties holding together the tubing, I know plenty of people do it, but finish wise I might want something a bit cleaner. I could end up having a bit more money to play with hopefully.

The help and info so far is greatly appreciated


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Nice!

I see they are pretty pricey, but I would only need about what two for the rad, two for the block and two for the pump right?

I just don't know if I like the t-clamps or zip ties holding together the tubing, I know plenty of people do it, but finish wise I might want something a bit cleaner. I could end up having a bit more money to play with hopefully.

The help and info so far is greatly appreciated









Well, stickley speaking, yes you would only need 6. However, everything I linked in the initial list of parts comes with normal barbs, if you go for compression you are talking about adding $13x6 = $78. And that is just for normal straight fittings. If you want 45Â° or 90Â° ones that can help eliminate large bends and excessive tubing, they very quickly add up at $15-19 each.


----------



## raZel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sean W.* 
raZel, you need to ditch that zip tie....

Lol Yeah i know, its only there because i used the double sided pad that came with the pump to mount it, but it came loose, and keeps vibrating against the edge of the brackets.... so i put some foam in there and zip tied it until i get another day off to fix it lol....i hate the zip tie....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hollywood406* 
Nice setup! That tubing is HUGE!!!







What size is it, 3/4"? My setup is almost identical, Corsair B00D, P6X58D mobo and GTX480. I'm thinking of arranging my watercooling similar. Thanks for the ideas +rep

Nah i think its 1/2". But yeah i thought the bigger the better right? if there is more water flowing, the better it cools?

The only thing i would suggest i doing the tube from the pump to the radiator better than mine, im really not happy with mine. It kinda twists funny... its not buckling, but yeah... just make sure u take your time on that part lol.... and put the res some where easy to get to... this case is DAMN heavy to lift and move and tilt when ur trying to empty it and tilt the bubbles out.


----------



## owikh84




----------



## tzillian

nice, you got a 480 in the bottom?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
nice, you got a 480 in the bottom?

no, all those fans are cooling his massive psu.


----------



## owikh84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
nice, you got a 480 in the bottom?

Yes it's the TFC480 at the bottom.
I am updating my siggy now.. left OCN for so long already. Stay tuned & thanks for viewing..


----------



## owikh84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
no, all those fans are cooling his massive psu.









LOL not really cooling since hot air is blown inside the casing haha


----------



## Wretch

So after some time away due to life getting in the way I'm back; due to life getting in the way.









My latest forced build from parts that were laying around since June 09'.
My little one needed a computer so she got my Air Cooled Striker
and I whipped this one (in my sig) together last week.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Johnsen

Here my very first loop. Dont go to hard on me, i ordered some angled fittings so that the pump section can be replaced. And some wires still need to get sorted out or sleeved.








And NO it is not blue collant, simply 2 blue LED's lighting it all up.


















































Here is beforee I fixed the turbulence in the res.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Johnsen* 
Here is beforee I fixed the turbulence in the res.

















LOL HOLY CRAP that turbulence is intense


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
LOL HOLY CRAP that turbulence is intense

It was.. ALmost ground shaking!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Groundzero, I just took apart my whole case since I sent my mobo out for RMA besides plasti-dipping the chassis should I do anything to get ready for a future WC loop?


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Groundzero, I just took apart my whole case since I sent my mobo out for RMA besides plasti-dipping the chassis should I do anything to get ready for a future WC loop?

Maybe see where you can fit the pump, try to picture where the tubing will go, and if you would need any angeled fittings. They sell things like this that would allow a normal barb to be screwed into it. A couple of those would make your loop a lot cleaner rather than making a large bend to avoid kinking. (If needed, that is)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ny_driver

hehehehe........ wait until you update me next


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
hehehehe........ wait until you update me next









phase huh?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
Maybe see where you can fit the pump, try to picture where the tubing will go, and if you would need any angeled fittings. They sell things like this that would allow a normal barb to be screwed into it. A couple of those would make your loop a lot cleaner rather than making a large bend to avoid kinking. (If needed, that is)

Here is what I MS Painted







. I ripped off a piece of my index finger nail pulling those dumb ass bay clips off... I could flip the rad around and kind of tuck the tubes into the 5.25 bay since I only have 1 DVD drive in there and I could use less tubing as well and put less strain on the pump I assume.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
hehehehe........ wait until you update me next









Yeah... um... I'm gonna have to report your post to homeland security...


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
Yeah... um... I'm gonna have to report your post to homeland security...

lol.....my coolant is down to -28c/-18f..........









EDIT: I have to insulate before I can unleash this beast on my CPU. there is going to be frost everywhere....I'm so excited.


----------



## pgmoney

ok here is a update to my rig. new case, new ram, new ssd, new ek full board block, new ek pump top, new wires sleeved. led's removed from yate loon uv blue fans, and feser shrouds added more uv cold cathodes.

original rig link:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9043543

rig updated link:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9452780

3rd rig update link:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9567929

NOW THE MAGIC


----------



## geniusloci

I still need to write the last part of the Aquila project article in our website and then I'll make more photos, but here are the few I made during the last reinstall:




























I got black and red sleeves and tools and then I realized it will look worse if I put them, so I decided to leave the system with black cables and no flex sleeve on them.


----------



## JE Nightmare

hot damn, that's sexy.


----------



## fshizl

i like how most of the builds use the 800D ahha...


----------



## geniusloci

Very sexy case. I can't stand the ATCS 840 or for that matter most of the cases on the market.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Nice build PGmoney, I see my water block at the bottom


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
i like how most of the builds use the 800D ahha...

Ye not surprising tho, one of the best lookin cases on the market and also in a very nice quality. Only the TJ07 is as classy.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Johnsen* 
Ye not surprising tho, one of the best lookin cases on the market and also in a very nice quality. Only the TJ07 is as classy.









the tj07 is the original top of the line watercooling case... corsair just happend to build this one









my first choice was the tj07...

except i saved 150 bucks going with the 800D


----------



## UrbanSmooth

@pgmoney and genius: Gorgeous builds! But, are you driving at least triple monitors?









More on that later...


----------



## Chilly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
the tj07 is the original top of the line watercooling case... corsair just happend to build this one









my first choice was the tj07...

except i saved 150 bucks going with the 800D

Whatever happend to the Cosmos S?


----------



## ecaftermath

Just finished mine last night.

Overclocked to 4.2 ghz with HT on at 1.35v

the temps are around 40C idle and 78C load on LinX and around 73C on Prime95


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Just finished mine last night.

Overclocked to 4.2 ghz with HT on at 1.35v

the temps are around 40C idle and 78C load on LinX and around 73C on Prime95

to be honest i don't really like the pump on the graphics card but it still looks cool


----------



## AdvanSuper

Shouldn't that load temp be considerably lower?


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Shouldn't that load temp be considerably lower?

What's your temp?

It's not on the card, there's this thing that came with the Haf X..it's on top of that


----------



## AdvanSuper

I have no temps on WC, I just assumed temps would be lower with a WC loop on an i7 with that voltage. I can't see pics, but is the video card in the loop as well?


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Shouldn't that load temp be considerably lower?

I was about the same running my 930 to 4.2ghz with 1.35 CPU Voltage and 1.29 QPI/DRAM. When I went back down to 4.0ghz my temps maxed at 60 degrees Celsius. 930's seem to require a lot of juice for stability above 4 ghz


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I have no temps on WC, I just assumed temps would be lower with a WC loop on an i7 with that voltage. I can't see pics, but is the video card in the loop as well?

I meant the temps on your H50. Just a CPU loop on a 360 Rad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
I was about the same running my 930 to 4.2ghz with 1.35 CPU Voltage and 1.29 QPI/DRAM. When I went back down to 4.0ghz my temps maxed at 60 degrees Celsius. 930's seem to require a lot of juice for stability above 4 ghz

yeah same with mine. on 4ghz it's below 60C.


----------



## fshizl

new desk with computer and screen on it.. lol

its an ikea counter top, that i made into a desk...

figured id post it here so you guys can see where i keep my computer


----------



## oliverw92

I am seriously jealous of that setup, Carlos!


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I am seriously jealous of that setup, Carlos!

lol, no need to be.. isnt there an ikea around your area?

"Numerar" top 73"x39" lol its like 140 pounds, and then the two legs are "Bekvam"


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
I meant the temps on your H50. Just a CPU loop on a 360 Rad

Less than 12c higher than yours on LinX with around the same voltage. H50 isn't cutting it at all.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
I was about the same running my 930 to 4.2ghz with 1.35 CPU Voltage and 1.29 QPI/DRAM. When I went back down to 4.0ghz my temps maxed at 60 degrees Celsius. 930's seem to require a lot of juice for stability above 4 ghz

Wow I thought it would be a lot lower.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
new desk with computer and screen on it.. lol

its an ikea counter top, that i made into a desk...

figured id post it here so you guys can see where i keep my computer

Is that a TV.. if so how big? Looks almost exactly like mine, lol


----------



## AdvanSuper

Looks like a 32" to me.

Edit : Says 40" in his sig rig. That's a bad mofo I used to use my 32" as my monitor, but needed a smaller monitor for competitive gaming.


----------



## Gill..

@Genius....awesome..like the northbridge best....it doesn't restrict flow....looks sick..


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Looks like a 32" to me.

Edit : Says 40" in his sig rig. That's a bad mofo I used to use my 32" as my monitor, but needed a smaller monitor for competitive gaming.

Yea i'm currently using my 32" as my monitor. Since I can't do any competitive gaming (thanks to my crap-for-ISP) I think I'm gonna stay with it for a while.


----------



## fshizl

Yes it's 40 inches samsung.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I have the 32" Samsung as well I love this TV.

Start a Samsung Club


----------



## fshizl

I don't know about you guys but I play my games competitively on it haha. Cs is played at 800x600 and I switch the aspect ratio on the tv to 4:3


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
I don't know about you guys but I play my games competitively on it haha. Cs is played at 800x600 and I switch the aspect ratio on the tv to 4:3

It was too big for me and my eyes were all over the place and I wanted 75hz and little to no input lag. Now I want a 120hz monitor eventually, but last I checked the price tags weren't too appealing.


----------



## tzillian

hey carlos, i was checking out your build and had a question. could you fit some fans underneath the rad as well for a push/pull set up or would that not even benefit the rad you got.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
hey carlos, i was checking out your build and had a question. could you fit some fans underneath the rad as well for a push/pull set up or would that not even benefit the rad you got.

Umm you could fit them just fine if you don't have the I and h res. Or if you have a smaller one.

If you have a drive bay res a push pull set up can be achievable. You'd lose one of the drive bays though lol. The radiator covers from the front to the back.

For you guys talking about 120hz my tv is 120hz lol.

I could fit a push pull if the video card was smaller. Cause then the res could be mounted lower. But the 5970 is a mile long :/

To be honest though I don't think I need it. At night when it's cold I'm seeing 21 and 23 for gpu idle and 30-28 for the processor. Under load 28 and 30 for video card and 40 max for the processor.


----------



## geniusloci

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth* 
@pgmoney and genius: Gorgeous builds! But, are you driving at least triple monitors?









I have 24" 1920x1200 and 40" FullHD TV connected. For the moment it is single HD5870 and a GTX260 for PhysX, so I don't have as much graphics power as I want - still thinking about trying SLI with two GTX470 or even 480 (with SLI mod) on that board, but I'll have to test it before I jump there. Plus with two 480s I'll have to add another small rad somewhere if I want to keep the low noise level.


----------



## bundymania

Here i have the first waterblock from the italian Company DIMASTECH to show...and some other parts. Look at the bottom Plate, it looks very similar to other newer blocks like the Koolance 360, XSPC Rasa, or Aquacomputer Kryos. The Dimastech Block is available for only 35 EUR at Aquatuning atm. Dunno why itÂ´s so cheap.


----------



## oliverw92

Can't help but think they have reverse-engineered the XSPC Rasa to get that


----------



## geniusloci

Same thought here. I'll get one with our next order and see how it is. Cost as much as EK Supreme LT anyway.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## infinite illusions

I sold my Ek waterblock to someone, and now I have to go get a new waterblock. I was looking at the Koolance 360 waterblock? What do you guys think? Any good?


----------



## bundymania

Yep, the Koolance block has a very good performance , just check my review - Link in my Sig.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Kryton

Guess I'll get in on this:

OCZ Hydroflow CPU block
Swiftech MCW30 chipset block
Swiftech MCP 655 waterpump
Swiftech 3 fan rad
An external res container I got from Wal-Mart and modded
The usual assortment of whatever else I'd need to make this mess work.









The setup was an initial testbed for my 754 setup.
Kinda looks like I've been distilling better clocks from this, hence I call it the "Whiskey Still". It's ugly but it works.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Hewi

1'st post on these forums











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## JE Nightmare

never been a big fan of that case but i have to admit it looks pretty good.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## JE Nightmare

totally random but i want your keyboard bundy.


----------



## De-Zant

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
totally random but i want your keyboard bundy.









The sidewinder x6? It has a few issues with multiple keypresses. It's meant more for MMO players.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *De-Zant* 
The sidewinder x6? It has a few issues with multiple keypresses. It's meant more for MMO players.

cough i play mmo's cough.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
totally random but i want your keyboard bundy.









I bring you the keyboard as a gift, if I can have a couple of great days in Vegas at your house


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hewi* 
1'st post on these forums












Sweet lookin setup.


----------



## R00ST3R

Just a few more hours of leak testing/bleeding left...


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
I bring you the keyboard as a gift, if I can have a couple of great days in Vegas at your house























well in that case, how about your tech bench instead.


----------



## bundymania

Hehe







Including a 2500 $ Bonus for Casino Gambling from you ?









Next Gear...to the Limits Baby


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

just to share something of my own build:

Just moved back into my apartment after being in terrible temporary housing all summer!

and as always the most important part of moving in:


----------



## MedRed

sexy setup!


----------



## oliverw92

Loving the pink sexbox controller


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Loving the pink sexbox controller










I think it's pretty obvious that Kevin is a chick.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


just to share something of my own build:

Just moved back into my apartment after being in terrible temporary housing all summer!

and as always the most important part of moving in:









http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3781866_n.jpg


your rig is so sexay!


----------



## infinite illusions

Kevin, what kind of speakers are those?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MedRed*


sexy setup!


thanks! I love it. 

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Loving the pink sexbox controller










haha, yea. I couldn't resist when I saw it. you have no idea how many times people on this site have pointed that out in pics when i didn't even realize it was in them.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


I think it's pretty obvious that Kevin is a chick.










haha, not quite. 

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


your rig is so sexay!












Quote:



Originally Posted by *infinite illusions*


Kevin, what kind of speakers are those?


they are some cheap Logitech ones i won in a contest a year or two ago. it is a 5.1 system, but I only ever use the front three and the sub because the cables are not long enough on the rear two to put them in a good spot. and i haven't found the motivation to do anything about that.


----------



## infinite illusions

Wanna sell that pink controller?

......There's only one right answer, and no isn't it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *infinite illusions* 
Wanna sell that pink controller?

......There's only one right answer, and no isn't it









ha!

no.










edit:

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wirel...2016088&sr=8-1


----------



## eikast

I'm new to water cooling












































I know I can still improve on my wire management but I was without my desktop for a few days due to long bleeding and leak testing....I just had to run it


----------



## R00ST3R

Well, I was going to wait until I had the chance to clean things up a bit better, and retake some pics. Here's what I've done so far.










































I know... I need to clean the dust off a few things. Got the Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol on standby







.


----------



## Fallen Angel -X




----------



## tpavur




----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Well, I was going to wait until I had the chance to clean things up a bit better, and retake some pics. Here's what I've done so far.

http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...Chrome2002.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...Chrome2004.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...hromium058.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...Chrome2009.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...omium055-1.jpg

I know... I need to clean the dust off a few things. Got the Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol on standby







.

wow that looks amazing! nice work!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

btw, my rig is up for MOTM this month!

be sure to go and vote, the link is in my sig. (and you should vote even if it is not for me) ;-)


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

btw, my rig is up for MOTM this month!

be sure to go and vote, the link is in my sig. (and you should vote even if it is not for me) ;-)

cool! hope you win


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

btw, my rig is up for MOTM this month!

be sure to go and vote, the link is in my sig. (and you should vote even if it is not for me) ;-)

Well, you've got my vote.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
cool! hope you win


Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
Well, you've got my vote.









thanks guys.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
wow that looks amazing! nice work!

Thank you







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

btw, my rig is up for MOTM this month!

be sure to go and vote, the link is in my sig. (and you should vote even if it is not for me) ;-)

Hard choice between yours, and the pinball machine. I, of course, had to vote for yours. Good luck


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Hard choice between yours, and the pinball machine. I, of course, had to vote for yours. Good luck









thanks!

not gonna lie, I probably would have voted for Ex if I was not in the running.


----------



## fshizl

hey, my rig is in MOTM too lol


----------



## jrgull13

The diamond plate in that rig of yours R00STER is badass.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Nice color scheme, fizzle.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


hey, my rig is in MOTM too lol


Yeah i seen that. my vote was between yours and kevin. in the end i had to go with kevin just because of your orange tubing.







grats to both of you for being up for the motm.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
hey, my rig is in MOTM too lol










Hot damn!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


hey, my rig is in MOTM too lol


oh, sorry, i forgot.









I really like your build, it is nice and unique, noone else has that color scheme.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


Yeah i seen that. my vote was between yours and kevin. in the end i had to go with kevin just because of your orange tubing.







grats to both of you for being up for the motm.


haha, i am diging the orange with the blue. nice complementary colors.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Question... What can I use to cut out a 1" diameter hole in the chassis of my case? I want to make a hole to place the fillport into.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Question... What can I use to cut out a 1" diameter hole in the chassis of my case? I want to make a hole to place the fillport into.

a step bit works great, but they are expensive.

I used a jig saw and a file.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
hey, my rig is in MOTM too lol










that looks awesome! it reminds me of dippin dots ice cream HAHA


----------



## fshizl

murdered cd drives....








to give me this...








where did they go!?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## eppopipe

Well, I suppose i should finally post up my build
So heres 3 pics, one of the old case when i first went water, one of the new case when i first put it together and finally how it currently sits.


----------



## fshizl

nice build.. love the quick disconnect


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
hey, my rig is in MOTM too lol

Your build is pure shexma fshizle. I'm going to be honest though, it kinda lost me with the 24 pin cable routed in front of the res. That is just an opinion, so take it with a grain of salt. Don't get me wrong, overall it's a very nice build. Much better then mine, and you'd get my runner up vote for sure







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eppopipe* 
Well, *I suppose i should finally post up my build*.
So heres 3 pics, one of the old case when i first went water, one of the new case when i first put it together and finally how it currently sits.

You suppose??








That's a very nice build, and personally, I would like to see more of it


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
You suppose??








That's a very nice build, and personally, I would like to see more of it
















I second that, we need more pictures eppopipe.


----------



## eppopipe

ask and you will receive.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...pes-build.html
:3


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 








where did they go!?

Beautiful shot there! What camera settings did you use, pal?


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
Yeah i seen that. my vote was between yours and kevin. in the end i had to go with kevin just because of your orange tubing.







grats to both of you for being up for the motm.









the orange tubing is the best part!


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 







the orange tubing is the best part!

Lol i'm not knocking it for having orange tubing because i actually like it. Just in my eyes, kevin's matches better.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth* 
Beautiful shot there! What camera settings did you use, pal?

Camera settings: low iso, i think like 80, no flash and everything else the camera set up... lol

Its a samsung point and shoot, tl-320

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 







the orange tubing is the best part!

Thanks Yogi!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
Lol i'm not knocking it for having orange tubing because i actually like it. Just in my eyes, kevin's matches better.









I needed a contrast color, otherwise it would be too blue... or too gray depending on the color of the tubing... And since gigabyte sends the orange sata cables, i was loving the orange contrast the blue.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
I needed a contrast color, otherwise it would be too blue... or too gray depending on the color of the tubing... And since gigabyte sends the orange sata cables, i was loving the orange contrast the blue.

Mine came with the ugly baby blue ones.









( pretty random but i loves my new avatar.







)


----------



## AdvanSuper

Another question..

EK Supreme HF Full Nickle or the previous model EK-Supreme Full Copper w/ Acetal top?


----------



## JE Nightmare

the full nickle has the highest performance of all the ek cpu blocks.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Another question..

EK Supreme HF Full Nickle or the previous model EK-Supreme Full Copper w/ Acetal top?

They're both the High-Flow model. It's just that one has a copper bottom with acetal top and other other is nickel plated top and bottom.

If it were me, I would get this one. No need to spend the extra bucks for a nickel plated top. _Should_ perform the same as the acetal counterpart.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Well reason I'm asking is because someone is selling the Full Nickle and I was originally going to buy the Acetal top one from performance-pc's for $72. But if the guy selling his Full Nickle has a good price on it I was going to pick it up.


----------



## Yogi

The full nickel is pure sex! Glad I decided to get it over the acetal.

Also if anyone hasnt seen theres new tops for the Plexi and Acetal HFs


----------



## FalloutBoy

wow, that acetal one looks awesome but still not as good as my nickel top!









Oh and I like your new avatar too JE.


----------



## fshizl

Full nickle for the win!!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Well they also have the full copper with gold plating for 79.99(The newest EK Supreme)... And I kind of want to order now instead of waiting on people. Don't know what to do....


----------



## tzillian

thought id post this here since its prob more relevant
im planning on switching the stock 140mm 800D case fans for something with better performance. any reccomendations?

also planning on modding bottom of the case to fit either
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27521

or

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25384

Which one would you guys recommend? and which fans should i use for the rad that will be quiet?

Was thinking of these fans:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28584
or
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28382

any hints? thanks


----------



## AdvanSuper

You can get the GTX280 rad here for 89.95
http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...r-202p1044.htm


----------



## tzillian

nice, thanks.


----------



## AdvanSuper

You can also select USPS shipping on their site for cheaper shipping too.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
Full nickle for the win!!


You need to wipe off those smudges before it's a win


----------



## AdvanSuper

Well I went ahead and ordered the remaining parts I needed.

PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - Clear
EK-Supreme HF High Flow - FULL COPPER - "FULL GOLD"
EK-DDC X-TOP
Bitspower Premium G1/4" High Flow 1/2" Fitting
MCP350

Tubing, clamps and y-fitting for the fillport as well


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I gOT MY THIRD GPU BLOCK!


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


I gOT MY THIRD GPU BLOCK!











pics or it didnt happen.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


I gOT MY THIRD GPU BLOCK!


----------



## Wretch

Updated the loop: http://www.overclock.net/10399180-post1.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wretch* 
Updated the loop: http://www.overclock.net/10399180-post1.html

sorry, but the pics must be posted in this thread for me to update you...


----------



## Wretch

Updated Loop:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wretch* 
Updated Loop:










awesome loop you got there i love the block


----------



## Wretch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


awesome loop you got there i love the block


Thanks, it looks a mess compared to more recent trends.

The parts layed around a year before I got the thing up and running but it still does pretty good against the typical iChip setups.

The block does work a treat as old as it is.


----------



## bundymania

Heatkiller for the GTX 480 Card in Action


----------



## Phobos223

^^ sweet looking block

I'm gonna post real pics of mine when I finally get my 5870 underwater









until then...


----------



## phillipjos

By phillipjos at 2010-08-10


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phillipjos*










By phillipjos at 2010-08-10


Is it just me or do the 2 hoses going to/from your rez look.. pink?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrgull13*


Is it just me or do the 2 hoses going to/from your rez look.. pink?


Its the lights on his Ram, Crucial Ballistix Tracers do that, I should know.


----------



## B-roca

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrgull13*


Is it just me or do the 2 hoses going to/from your rez look.. pink?


His ram has lights because its Ballistix Tracers. That guy has a nice loop but honestly he really needs to paint the interior of the HAF because it will lokk like a millionz times better and it only cost $10nz dollars


----------



## jrgull13

Ahhhh ok, ty.


----------



## R00ST3R

Finally snapped a pic of what the res actually looks like in person...in a pitch black room...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

very cool.


----------



## fshizl

my build's cable management










I posted it cause my feed tube to the radiator goes through the back, i had people asking for this picture...


----------



## Rian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
my build's cable management










I posted it cause my feed tube to the radiator goes through the back, i had people asking for this picture...

This is interesting, never seen it done before.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rian* 
This is interesting, never seen it done before.

yeah, haha, it keeps the front really clean...


----------



## AdvanSuper

My cosmos sucks because I can't close the door if I have my cables like that...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I got my third GPU block from vermillion!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
my build's cable management










I posted it cause my feed tube to the radiator goes through the back, i had people asking for this picture...

Man, that is some serious "attention to detail". I'm lovin' it!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I got my third GPU block from vermillion!

Lookin' good Kevin!

Hurry up and get that thing installed, but take your time and do it right


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Lookin' good Kevin!

Hurry up and get that thing installed, but take your time and do it right
















I wish I could 

I have to wait till I get some fittings and a new res and another rad though...


----------



## v1ral

Finally got a camera..
posting pictures as I have my sig rig atm..will be adding another GTX 470 soon!!


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Always bet on black!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jrgull13

Wish my cable management could look like fshizl's









My mobo tray is too close to the side panel to be able to run the bigger cables back there (24 pin mainly) Then again mine is only a mid tower.. Thermaltake needs to take cable management into consideration when making their mid cases


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


my build's cable management










I posted it cause my feed tube to the radiator goes through the back, i had people asking for this picture...


It keeps getting better. I love how you have the line in the back that's a great idea. I'm a big fan of your build.


----------



## [CyGnus]

First Time WC i think its not bad (i left the long cables for when i want to fill the pump)


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


It keeps getting better. I love how you have the line in the back that's a great idea. I'm a big fan of your build.


Thanks man! Im glad you like it... The rig isnt done either, so be expecting more.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I just wanted to share the fact that we are the #1 google result for "watercooling picture gallery"


----------



## musicfan

latest photos; can post more if desired


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jrgull13

Has anyone used those braided flexible hoses they sell at hardware stores in the plumbing department for water lines before? (commonly seen on toilets or connecting your water lines to your faucets) Not saying I would, just looking at other options for unique builds.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Just do it, man. You do seem interested enough. Remember, it's all about being innovative.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
Has anyone used those braided flexible hoses they sell at hardware stores in the plumbing department for water lines before? (commonly seen on toilets or connecting your water lines to your faucets) Not saying I would, just looking at other options for unique builds.

I'd really like to see that.


----------



## jrgull13

I think I'm gonna try it on my Xbox 360 scratch build. Almost done with my sig mod, and my wife's mod is a low budget (like under 100 USD) so I should be able to jump into that mod before Christmas I hope.

The only foreseeable problem is that you can't really customize the length of them, so you have to deal with extra length, though some of them do get really short.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
Has anyone used those braided flexible hoses they sell at hardware stores in the plumbing department for water lines before? (commonly seen on toilets or connecting your water lines to your faucets) Not saying I would, just looking at other options for unique builds.

Interesting idea. Braided lines certainly look good on motorcycles. The problem with using stuff like that is compatibility with actual WC equipment. Different threading for such things. Now if there were some kind of metal sleeving for the tubes that would provide that "look", that would be cool







.


----------



## jrgull13

there is. There's some chrome mylar sleeving, but there isn't heat shrink to match so I don't know how you'd keep it from fraying.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...Path=44_32_207

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...Path=44_32_208

And if I do this 360 mod, everything except the pumps will be DIY, so I can use regular ol' plumbing barbs/nipples to make it work... and I'd probably find some way to get the pumps to accept different barbs/nipples too.


----------



## Lerkah

Long time reader, first time poster.










































i7 [email protected], Asus P6T Deluxe V2,Sapphire 5870 @1000mhz/1275mhz
Koolance cpu-360 block, koolance ar587 block, black ice extreme 240 in
push/pull, Liang D5 pump,silly DD res i regret buying..

Cut the top of the case out to mount the radiator (Have some pics of this part but they are crappy mobile phone ones). Used some rubber lining around all the metal holes i cut. Cut all the layers of dust filtering out bar the outer mesh layer.

This is my first water cooling build of this magnitude, only messed with prefab systems before, gonna get some angled connectors now that i know exactly how things are flowing in my case, also considering mounting my pump under my vid card and going into the card first, thoughts?

Probably going to paint some things gloss red, like the video card backplate, ram fan housing, and a Koolance pump top when i buy it







Also plan on getting a decent 120x2 fan grill for the top, something thats not too restrictive but saves fingers from those Scythes


----------



## fshizl

How are your temps??? Seems like huge load for a 240 rad


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Nice rig youve got there








And welcome to ocn


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Very nice! ^^


----------



## Lerkah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
How are your temps??? Seems like huge load for a 240 rad

cpu idles at around 35c hits around 65c in prime after a couple of hours, gpu idles at 30c and maxes at around 55 in 10minutes of furmark, VRM's hit a nice toasty 67-70 though in furmark, being the last contact point in my loop.
Only running 1.2v through the 5870 though, cpu 1.28v.

the rad is in push pull with 4 scythe s-flex's which push ALOT of air. The air coming out of it barely gets warm under full load. Considering adding another 120 black ice in the loop between the cpu and vid card, thoughts? d5 can handle this ya?


----------



## v1ral

D5 can handle a lot..
Check out my Rig..!!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lerkah* 
cpu idles at around 35c hits around 65c in prime after a couple of hours, gpu idles at 30c and maxes at around 55 in 10minutes of furmark, VRM's hit a nice toasty 67-70 though in furmark, being the last contact point in my loop.
Only running 1.2v through the 5870 though, cpu 1.28v.

the rad is in push pull with 4 scythe s-flex's which push ALOT of air. The air coming out of it barely gets warm under full load. Considering adding another 120 black ice in the loop between the cpu and vid card, thoughts? d5 can handle this ya?


----------



## fshizl

yeah the d5 can handle a lot... haha... im glad i went with it in my build.


----------



## Joossens

Hello everyone, some impressive builds are posted here!
I hope you'll like mine too.
I build it last year when I got my I7. Its ready for an update since i got the gtx470 2monts ago.








I'll be adding an EK block to the gtx and the MIPS fuzion block to the chipset.

Also thought about adding another rad (xspc rx120) in stead of the empty upper hdd-cage with this fan as intake: TFC Triebwerk TK-122.
And maybe another rad in the top(inside) but its going to be tight and as an exhaust i don't know if tis will be effecient.

Thank u for reading









My hardware specs:
Gigabyte X58 extreme
I7 920 @4.2Ghz
ZOTACgtx470
2x Velociraptor Raid0
2x HitachiE7k1000 Raid0

My coolware:
PA120.3 with noctua nf-p12
heatkiller 3.0Cu
Gigabyte stock block
ddc3.25(koolance pmp-400) + xspc res top
OCZ ramcooler

here are some pics


----------



## fshizl

Redid the 24 pin cable and sata cables...

The 24 pin looked cool over the res, but it looks better this way...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## whood886

yeah that looks a lot cleaner i love the colors 
+ rep


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


Redid the 24 pin cable and sata cables...

The 24 pin looked cool over the res, but it looks better this way...


I kinda liked it the other way, still looks good though.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lerkah*


cpu idles at around 35c hits around 65c in prime after a couple of hours, gpu idles at 30c and maxes at around 55 in 10minutes of furmark, VRM's hit a nice toasty 67-70 though in furmark, being the last contact point in my loop.
Only running 1.2v through the 5870 though, cpu 1.28v.

the rad is in push pull with 4 scythe s-flex's which push ALOT of air. The air coming out of it barely gets warm under full load. Considering adding another 120 black ice in the loop between the cpu and vid card, thoughts? d5 can handle this ya?


Idk if theres a temp difference between a 5850 and 5870 but my card maxes at 37c and the VRms max at 57c @ 1.2v 975/1200 after 30 min furmark.
Usings BI GTX360 with San Ace 101s. That extra 120 should help out with the gpu temps a lot.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Idk if theres a temp difference between a 5850 and 5870 but my card maxes at 37c and the VRms max at 57c @ 1.2v 975/1200 after 30 min furmark.
Usings BI GTX360 with San Ace 101s. That extra 120 should help out with the gpu temps a lot.


after 30 minutes of kombuster

my 5970 maxes out at 35 as well, with vrms at 60... but i have it running at 1ghz and 1.3 ghz...

however i got the 480 rad...


----------



## alidarkstone

www.sivisogutma.com my web site more info


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Lerkah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Idk if theres a temp difference between a 5850 and 5870 but my card maxes at 37c and the VRms max at 57c @ 1.2v 975/1200 after 30 min furmark.
Usings BI GTX360 with San Ace 101s. That extra 120 should help out with the gpu temps a lot.

Considering just adding another 240 in the loop and cooling my northbridge+mosfets as well, gonna go with something with a thicker core like the XSPC RX240 though.

Pump>240Rad>cpu>mosfets>northbridge(probably get the EK full cover NB/SB block)>240radiator>vidcard>res>back to pump. cpu/mosfets/nb/sb shouldnt be too much load for one 240 radiator?

Or maybe split the load up a little more evenly?
Pump>240rad>cpu>mosfets>240rad>nb/sb>vidcard>res>back to pump

Or just get a 360 radiator and stop being such a *****?


----------



## Lerkah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
after 30 minutes of kombuster

my 5970 maxes out at 35 as well, with vrms at 60... but i have it running at 1ghz and 1.3 ghz...

however i got the 480 rad...

Well i dont exactly know which temperature to report as my "gpu temp" lol, Everest gives me like 4 differnt GPU temps..DispIO,MemIO,Shader,and VRM.

Which do i tell people is my -GPU- temp.









The dispIO never goes over 38..


----------



## Yogi

Use GPU-Z!


----------



## Lerkah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Use GPU-Z!

Ok i grabbed that, so which temps are which lol, theres GPU temp, and GPU temp #1,#2,#3. At least everest told me what was what?


----------



## Yogi

GPU temps 1-3 are mem(?) and VDDCs are VRM temps.


----------



## Lerkah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
GPU temps 1-3 are mem(?) and VDDCs are VRM temps.

Awesome thanks







nifty tool


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alidarkstone* 
www.sivisogutma.com my web site more info








http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/IMAG0055.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/IMAG0057.jpg

thats an awesome rig! nice work


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

add me please

setup:
XSPC RX 360
XSPC RX240
2x MCP355
Koolance Tnk240
5x Scythe Ultra Kaze 1k rpm
3x Koolance Vidnx480
Koolance P6t6ws revolution waterblock
Koolance cpu 350
3/8 koolance compression fittings
3/8 primochill tubing


----------



## JE Nightmare

So... much... blue.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

so much anti-kink!

also, whats up with the one SLI fitting, then a curved tube for the other?

updated.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
so much anti-kink!

also, whats up with the one SLI fitting, then a curved tube for the other?

updated.

Well, I bought 2 of the sli connectors and I lost one of them in my apt when tearing down my system. I'll be redoing my whole setup over the next month so I'm in no rush to pay $10 shipping for a $13 part. Going to get another p80 case, mount a 480 rad on the bottom, where the 5.25 bays are mount a 360 and a 240 on the top as well as add a 2nd loop. The curved tubing is kind of a temporary fix


----------



## bundymania

some older parts - i liked the little xspc pump very much


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

How much water does that little one move bundy?
I have the dual bay and that one is rated at 750l/h if I'm right.


----------



## bundymania

Depending on the blocks and other stuff you have..about 40-50 Liter/h.

Those specs from the manufacturers are always measured without any restriction, itÂ´s only the pump itself which has 750 L/h. when you want to trust those technical details from XSPC







In a real typical setup, the Dualbay Pump brings 100-150 Liters

Du vestehst ja gut deutsch, hier kannst du meinen Pumpentest sehen, den ich mal gemacht habe:

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community...ra-641170.html


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Ah danke bundy, I'll check it out








I know its without restriction, though I didnt know the actual flow rate.
It kept my amd 965 @ 4ghz between 20 and 45c with the heatkiller 3 copper and a dual120mm rad push pulled with 1.9k s-flex fans. Not bad imo








(100% stressed with linx for a few hours maxed at 50c though, but never seen that at any other use, not even with folding...)


----------



## AdvanSuper

***.... I have no idea if there wasn't a 4th nut with my ek block or if I lost it... I checked my whole work area and I cannot find the 4th nut to mount the back plate...


----------



## Chunkylad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
The "thumbs up", and the "consequences will never be the same" sign certainly brought a smile to my face







. One question though, how are you going to get the bay res into the bay? Looks like the tubing from the GPU is kinda short.

I had to do a case mod, that wasn't a permanent place for it. It kept falling out of the bay and spilling water all over the place so that was my quick fix. Check my build log for what I did. I would post the pics in here, but I am gonna same the space for my finished rig. One set of pics will be without dye and in my parents house, the other set with dye and in my dorm. Quite excited to finally be getting this thing done!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunkylad* 
I had to do a case mod, that wasn't a permanent place for it. It kept falling out of the bay and spilling water all over the place so that was my quick fix. Check my build log for what I did. I would post the pics in here, but I am gonna same the space for my finished rig. One set of pics will be without dye and in my parents house, the other set with dye and in my dorm. Quite excited to finally be getting this thing done!

Ahhh. Right on. Your build is looking great man


----------



## AdvanSuper

When do I stop filling my loop? There's about one inch worth of emptiness in my fill port tube. Do I fill it until it's completely full? So far the system is running well hasn't broke 68c @ 1.341 vcore @ 4.2 with HT







.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Still need help with above question when possible


----------



## Yogi

That should be good. You can top it off later once all the air bubbles are out.


----------



## ke312882

Here is the start of my new set-up. The question i have is should i add another Rad in the back? Currently running i7 @4.0 on air in antec 1200 case


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ke312882* 
Here is the start of my new set-up. The question i have is should i add another Rad in the back? Currently running i7 @4.0 on air in antec 1200 case

A dual rad is plenty for a cpu only loop, especially a Feser.


----------



## ke312882

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
A dual rad is plenty for a cpu only loop, especially a Feser.

sweet thanks.. im always open to peoples input! so if you have any other ideas feel free to share...


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
A dual rad is plenty for a cpu only loop, especially a Feser.

I totally ephed up on the clamps... I didn't count the Y fitting that I needed clamps for... Good thing I had zip ties.


----------



## alidarkstone

www.sivisogutma.com my web site more info


----------



## runeazn

before installation of wc loop lol.

















installignt he wc loop




































ghetoo rad moount ftw


----------



## oliverw92

Ghetto, runeazn









The twins:




























Crossfire 5850's with EK white acetal full cover blocks, EK nickel backplates and black bitspower fittings


----------



## fshizl

Oli those waterblocks look gorgeous. Can we buy them from somewhere? Do they have one for the 5970?

Just checked. They don't but I'll definitely get some for my next build. I love that white acetal.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alidarkstone* 
www.sivisogutma.com my web site more info









dude, you def already posted those two exact pics already. 

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Ghetto, runeazn









The twins:

Crossfire 5850's with EK white acetal full cover blocks, EK nickel backplates and black bitspower fittings









no pics with the new setup? with the small fittings?


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Ghetto, runeazn









The twins:

Crossfire 5850's with EK white acetal full cover blocks, EK nickel backplates and black bitspower fittings









Are those SLI fittings white? where'd you get them?


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
Are those SLI fittings white? where'd you get them?


I think those are white hoses.


----------



## AdvanSuper

How tight should the EK block be?


----------



## Yogi

Umm Oli









Could you do me a favor to and measure from the bottom of your lower block to the floor?


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
Oli those waterblocks look gorgeous. Can we buy them from somewhere? Do they have one for the 5970?

Just checked. They don't but I'll definitely get some for my next build. I love that white acetal.

5850, 5770 and 5870 have them. You could drop them an email and ask for them as specials, might be able to help you.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

dude, you def already posted those two exact pics already. 

no pics with the new setup? with the small fittings?

No I have been busy and i'm hunting for some 10/8mm clear tubing with higher clarity than the stuff i have. Might get some 10/8mm white tubing to try too.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MedRed* 
Are those SLI fittings white? where'd you get them?

Just tubing mate









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
How tight should the EK block be?

How long is a piece of string







Just use your judgement - I normally do it firmly but not so hard that it damages the PCB.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
How long is a piece of string







Just use your judgement - I normally do it firmly but not so hard that it damages the PCB.

It's pretty firm, but I'm not sure if I could get better temps with it tighter or not.


----------



## eVGAX58

mY nEW bUILD,

















































Painiting is done, Now

































































































































mObO installed.

















































Rad & Fans


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

looking forward to the final product there.


----------



## tzillian

what case is that eVGAX58??


----------



## Phobos223

Just got my GPU underwater and finally finished my rig! I'll post back with the parts list


----------



## tzillian

is that 2x 360 rads in there?

looks awesome.


----------



## eVGAX58

the case is thermaltake xaser vi


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## eVGAX58

Update, after 24hrs leak test the pc is up and running.








































OC the CPU is done as i gotta a nice temp, but that is only cuze my AC is on,
Now it's time to get the blocks installed on the GTX's 480 and removing testing card.
And install the 2nd loop.

I do hope that you're gonna like it.
Regards


----------



## bundymania

Nice Selection of colors









How high is the ambient temp in UAE atm, 40Â° Celsius or more ?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## _AKIMbO_

This is post #5 for me Kevin.

I got a new toy in the mail a week ago.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
This is post #5 for me Kevin.

I got a new toy in the mail a week ago.

Very nice. That's an awesome look in your rig







.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Very nice. That's an awesome look in your rig







.

Thanks...though, like many on here, I'm never satisfied with how it looks and am always tweaking it and making changes here and there.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

@eVGAX58

In future could you resize your pictures to something a bit smaller? They're pretty big and those of us with less than fantastic connections go nuuuuuuuuts trying to load those big images


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
Thanks...though, like many on here, I'm never satisfied with how it looks and am always tweaking it and making changes here and there.

I hear ya there. Just got done ordering some new fittings.









I think I'm getting close to having the fittings in the loop costing more than the radiator


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
I think I'm getting close to having the fittings in the loop costing more than the radiator









Lol...I hear you...I probably have the same situation going on with the fittings out-costing the rad. But, having the right combination of fittings really does make a loop look that much better imo.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
This is post #5 for me Kevin.

I got a new toy in the mail a week ago.









*snip*


Did you ask Alex to use dark red acrylic for the helix, or did the "red' one just come like that? I have a red one and it looks a lot lighter in colour than yours.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Did you ask Alex to use dark red acrylic for the helix, or did the "red' one just come like that? I have a red one and it looks a lot lighter in colour than yours.

It's actually the Blood Red acrylic color Alex is now carrying. IIRC, Alex carries both Blood Red and UV Red right now. My previous revision FrozenQ was the UV red variety, but the one you are seeing above is Blood Red.

Here's a pic of the two reservoirs next to each other. UV red on the left and Blood Red on the right.


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
This is post #5 for me Kevin.

I got a new toy in the mail a week ago.










do you know if with that reservoir the way you have it set up a 5970 will still fit in there?


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
do you know if with that reservoir the way you have it set up a 5970 will still fit in there?

Give me the length of a 5970 and I will measure it for you.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
It's actually the Blood Red acrylic color Alex is now carrying. IIRC, Alex carries both Blood Red and UV Red right now. My previous revision FrozenQ was the UV red variety, but the one you are seeing above is Blood Red.

Here's a pic of the two reservoirs next to each other. UV red on the left and Blood Red on the right.









Oh, I didn't know he offered two types of red. I have the UV Red one..it looks awesome! =D


----------



## frickfrock999

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 









Those look like drinks you would get in a club.
Perfect for slipping mickeys into!
I mean drinking from...


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Oh, I didn't know he offered two types of red. I have the UV Red one..it looks awesome! =D

The UV Red wasn't red enough for me but the Blood Red is actually a little too dark for my tastes. Too bad their isn't a happy medium (something like fire engine red). The Blood Red is more of a deep cranberry red color.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *frickfrock99* 
Those look like drinks you would get in a club.
Perfect for slipping mickeys into!
I mean drinking from...









Haha...the only person I know who has used the term Mickey (short for Mickey Finn) is an old law professor of mine. You sir score 1 internet point for classiness.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
The UV Red wasn't red enough for me but the Blood Red is actually a little too dark for my tastes. Too bad their isn't a happy medium (something like fire engine red). The Blood Red is more of a deep cranberry red color.

Yeah, I agree. I wish the UV red was a bit darker.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
Haha...the only person I know who has used the term Mickey (short for Mickey Finn) is an old law professor of mine. You sir score 1 internet point for classiness.

You haven't heard that term? People say that all the time up here.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

(alex says the UV red will match my build better) <_< >_>


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

(alex says the UV red will match my build better) <_< >_>

I've got to agree with him. The UV red is much closer in shade to red tubing and the fire engine red on my bloodrage mobo. Blood red is closer to that red used in the classified mobo blocks.


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
Give me the length of a 5970 and I will measure it for you.

thanks man, its 12 inches.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
thanks man, its 12 inches.

It will fit...but it will be really tight. There's maybe 1mm or 2mm of clearance.


----------



## pac0tac0

so im new to the site and heres my rig.
i got 3 cathods 2 red 1 uv
danger den mc-tdx
danger den reservoir
danger den 1/2 fittings
ocz 500 pump
ek 4890 special
hardware store tubing
feser one uv red coolant
black ice sr1 120 rad
its a really messy setup right now i plan on getting a new psu and sleeving everything, and when the new 600t comes out i plan on getting one day of.


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
It will fit...but it will be really tight. There's maybe 1mm or 2mm of clearance.

thanks man, will not having the cover that goes over the back of the hot swap bays help out at all?

oh, and where can i get the blood red one. definitely prefer it over the uv red one.

Thanks again.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
thanks man, will not having the cover that goes over the back of the hot swap bays help out at all?

oh, and where can i get the blood red one. definitely prefer it over the uv red one.

Thanks again.

If you remove the cover, then you may be able to squeeze an extra centimeter of space. However, you will have to drill a new hole for mounting the reservoir clips. If you just use one of the pre-drilled holes to install the res clips then removing the hotswap bay cover won't help any.

The only retail store I've seen carry the blood red version is Dazmode. But, you can order Blood Red straight from FrozenQ's website (which is what I did).


----------



## RushMore1205

hey guys, i dont think i have ever posted my pics, on this thread. but here it is


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


hey guys, i dont think i have ever posted my pics, on this thread.


I've seen your rig somewhere before. Anyways, I love the paint job.


----------



## [CyGnus]

My overkill Loop only CPU


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RushMore1205* 
hey guys, i dont think i have ever posted my pics, on this thread. but here it is

you posted once before, you are #292


----------



## loilane

Here is my build. First independent build in general, as well as first water cooling. Nothing fancy, but it works.
W.C parts: Koolance CPU-360 rev 1.1; XSPC RX360 rad; 3 Scythe Gentle Typhoons 1400 rpm (they were out of 2k); Swiftech MCP655; XSPC Acrylic Dual Bay Res (a really big pain to work with on my end). Made my own biocide (I'm a chemistry student).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## oliverw92

Anyone seen the new MDPC? It is pretty dam sweet:

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys...ovatio/038.htm


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Anyone seen the new MDPC? It is pretty dam sweet:

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys...ovatio/038.htm

wow, that is amazing!


----------



## mfb412

wow, looks rather simple but amazing at once


----------



## [CyGnus]

very impressive!


----------



## SimpleTech

The "reservoir" is brilliant!


----------



## Sean W.

who ever was in charge of the red paint is an iddiot... he got drips everywhere...


----------



## mastical

Very nice. What size is that tubing ya recon?


----------



## fshizl

pretty small tubing.... 1/4 inch maybe?


----------



## tzillian

incredible. are those rads on the outside? 1080mm? wonder what kind of temps you would get with that.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Well bigger rads or more then 1 rad is not going to cool more the system, the best they do is maybe more 8/10ÂºC then ambient at full load. The important thing is that the rad can dissipate the heat of all the parts that are on water.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Haha Oliver, I was about to do the same thing







That build is mind blowing. The first computer other than mine that I have as my wallpaper too. I wish I could speak german so I could go post in his build log and tell him how freaking epic it is!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*


My overkill Loop only CPU










How did you get those rads mounted side-by-side like that CyGnus? I like how it looks :thumbs:


----------



## [CyGnus]

Well i have the EK UNI RAD HOLDER and used 1 suport for one RAD (2 Screws) and the other for the 2nd RAD with the other 2 Screws instead of using all 4 screws for one. Simple and effective and it looks good!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*


Well i have the EK UNI RAD HOLDER and used 1 suport for one RAD (2 Screws) and the other for the 2nd RAD with the other 2 Screws instead of using all 4 screws for one. Simple and effective and it looks good!


Nice! Thank's for answering my question. +1


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Anyone seen the new MDPC? It is pretty dam sweet:

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys...ovatio/038.htm


WOW, my jaw dropped, and now its stuck in tht position.


----------



## Tech-Boy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loilane*


Here is my build. First independent build in general, as well as first water cooling. Nothing fancy, but it works.
W.C parts: Koolance CPU-360 rev 1.1; XSPC RX360 rad; 3 Scythe Gentle Typhoons 1400 rpm (they were out of 2k); Swiftech MCP655; XSPC Acrylic Dual Bay Res (a really big pain to work with on my end). Made my own biocide (I'm a chemistry student).



































Is that just uv colored tubing or dyed water? Or a combination of both?

Very nice color to it


----------



## USFORCES

It amazes me how nice water-cooled rigs have come to look in the last few years...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USFORCES*


It amazes me how nice water-cooled rigs have come to look in the last few years...


Indeed. It's amazing what can happen when people decide they want to have their cake AND eat it too lol... Aesthetics and performance can work hand in hand.


----------



## Jelah

My first loop









Block - Swiftech Apogee GTZ, 
Rad's - MCR220, MCR120 (has a build it res)
Pump - MCP350


----------



## ny_driver

Update me please.

CPU: Swiftech Apogee XT hooked to a 6500BTU A/C

GPUs: 2x(3) EK-FC4890 and a Swiftech res, pump, and 240 rad.(waiting on the 3rd card)

Software says my chip runs ~ 5c, but I think it's sub-zero....I need to get a digital thermometer with a probe.

I'll get some better pics in the daylight.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## dennis_g

my finished pc







next week a paint to black and red.




















and the video:







YouTube- blackdevil project - the end 25/08/2010


----------



## JE Nightmare

wow that's a lot of tubing.


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pac0tac0* 
so im new to the site and heres my rig.
i got 3 cathods 2 red 1 uv
danger den mc-tdx
danger den reservoir
danger den 1/2 fittings
ocz 500 pump
ek 4890 special
hardware store tubing
feser one uv red coolant
black ice sr1 120 rad
its a really messy setup right now i plan on getting a new psu and sleeving everything, and when the new 600t comes out i plan on getting one day of.

































Sick Build







Rep +1


----------



## Andreoid

*
Anfi-tec PWM033 waterblock for the EVGA P55 SLI*


----------



## dennis_g

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Andreoid* 









*
Anfi-tec PWM033 waterblock for the EVGA P55 SLI*











looks very nice


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Andreoid* 









*
Anfi-tec PWM033 waterblock for the EVGA P55 SLI*​
​
​
Is that block available for retail in the U.S.? I'm very interested in purchasing one.​


----------



## bundymania

Sapphire 5850 + Danger Den Summit...nickel plated by AC Shop


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Is that block available for retail in the U.S.? I'm very interested in purchasing one.

the only way i know is aquatuning UK http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/manufact...hp/manufac/142 (not listed atm,.. but i'll ask for list it on monday)


----------



## Vermillion

Mini update.
I figured I haven't posted since I got my i7. No video card cooling as im in the process of selling all my old cards to make room for a Fermi.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Andreoid* 
the only way i know is aquatuning UK http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/manufact...hp/manufac/142 (not listed atm,.. but i'll ask for list it on monday)

Thank you. Hopefully they will be willing to ship me one, and it won't be too costly







.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
Update me please.

CPU: Swiftech Apogee XT hooked to a 6500BTU A/C

GPUs: 2x(3) EK-FC4890 and a Swiftech res, pump, and 240 rad.(waiting on the 3rd card)

Software says my chip runs ~ 5c, but I think it's sub-zero....I need to get a digital thermometer with a probe.

I'll get some better pics in the daylight.

A 965 @ 4.5 is pretty impressive. Good work and nice creative system.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dennis_g* 
my finished pc







next week a paint to black and red.]







[/URL]

Ye a really good looking setup, good thing to paint it, kinda ruins it with the metal interior. Make sure to upate with some pics.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
A 965 @ 4.5 is pretty impressive. Good work and nice creative system.

Thank you very much for the compliments.







Try225 x 20


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
A 965 @ 4.5 is pretty impressive. Good work and nice creative system.

Wow, indeed.


----------



## Millerboy3

just changed my stock cpu cooler to a H50 push-pull and went from 63C idle (2nd floor apt in SC during 49 Day Straight Heat Wave) to 41-43C Idle







ill get some screens of load temps at some point.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Millerboy3*


just changed my stock cpu cooler to a H50 push-pull and went from 63C idle (2nd floor apt in SC during 49 Day Straight Heat Wave) to 41-43C Idle







ill get some screens of load temps at some point.


Nice, but, you went from stock to a well-known cooler, you'd better see a temp decrease!


----------



## Tech-Boy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Millerboy3*


just changed my stock cpu cooler to a H50 push-pull and went from 63C idle (2nd floor apt in SC during 49 Day Straight Heat Wave) to 41-43C Idle







ill get some screens of load temps at some point.


Yeah nice buy should have seen at least that much anyways.

Pics?


----------



## pewpewlazer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Update me please.

CPU: Swiftech Apogee XT hooked to a 6500BTU A/C

GPUs: 2x(3) EK-FC4890 and a Swiftech res, pump, and 240 rad.(waiting on the 3rd card)

Software says my chip runs ~ 5c, but I think it's sub-zero....I need to get a digital thermometer with a probe.

I'll get some better pics in the daylight.


You run that daily? I built a 5k BTU AC unit chiller way back when (circa 2003) and it was LOUD. Way worse than the 130CFM deltas I ended up running years later.


----------



## R00ST3R

So yesterday I'm looking down at the rig, and see two things that aren't making me very happy







. First, the radiator is sitting there "leaning" back. Seems the plastic rad-box can't handle the weight. Second the clear acrylic window had cracks going around two of the fasteners. So I put my ankles to it...

Picked up some angled aluminum and fasteners at the hardware store.








Then I made these braces.








Attached them to the rig.















Turned out pretty well imo.








As you can see here, I replaced the clear acrylic, with a "bronze" acrylic window.








Back under the desk 'till the next upgrade.









I also thought of a new name for it. Black Dynamite. I spent half the time while working on this project remembering lines from the movie, and laughing. Makes workin' a bit easier with a grin on your face







.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## pjBSOD

I've always wanted to WC, however it would be a waste for me because nothing I have really needs to be water cooled, heh.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *E-Peen*


I've always wanted to WC, however it would be a waste for me because nothing I have really needs to be water cooled, heh.


you talk about unimportant things like NEED on OCN?


----------



## pjBSOD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you talk about unimportant things like NEED on OCN? 


Haha.

Unemployment sucks, man.


----------



## crazy8s846

made a tread for this, but just thought id post it here


----------



## crazy8s846

and these


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *E-Peen*


I've always wanted to WC, however it would be a waste for me because nothing I have really needs to be water cooled, heh.


you have a CPU and GPU that need it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## UrbanSmooth

*sorry, he's the OP, lol*


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *E-Peen* 
Haha.

Unemployment sucks, man.

Join the club


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth* 
*sorry, he's the OP, lol*

lol wut?

did i miss something?


----------



## isolated

What a cool thread


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *isolated* 
What a cool thread
















I see avatar and request more


----------



## pjBSOD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
Kevin, this is post #2 for me. So I recieved a new toy in the mail yesterday and spent all night installing it. Tell me what you think.

















Hate to quote an old post, but seriously.... Where do you guys keep getting this T-Virus thing? I wouldn't even use it for WC'ing, it just looks badass... I'd stick it in my rig somewhere.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *E-Peen*


Hate to quote an old post, but seriously.... Where do you guys keep getting this T-Virus thing? I wouldn't even use it for WC'ing, it just looks badass... I'd stick it in my rig somewhere.


Well, those of us who own them are just badass people really.


----------



## Tech-Boy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *E-Peen*


Hate to quote an old post, but seriously.... Where do you guys keep getting this T-Virus thing? I wouldn't even use it for WC'ing, it just looks badass... I'd stick it in my rig somewhere.


enjoy

http://www.overclock.net/artisan-sal...e-t-virus.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ath=59_318_708


----------



## ny_driver

Update me please...lol...biggest hairball award? No wonder I was having so many problems.









I finally have the rig finished...for now until I decide to chill the gpus. I'll post some close-ups of the loops later on. I'm busy basking in the glory of three Celcius right now. I'll get zero Celsius tomorrow morning.


----------



## Alexandro

Wow, I didn't know he sold 150mm versions of his res :O. Those look pretty good too. Though the 250mm still looks better







.


----------



## Alexandro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_driver*


Update me please...lol...biggest hairball award?

I finally have the rig finished...for now until I decide to chill the gpus. I'll post some close-ups of the loops later on. I'm busy basking in the glory of three Celcius right now.


Wait, how... Wow.

Did you perhaps take a shower and used the drain water in your loop














?


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *E-Peen*


Hate to quote an old post, but seriously.... Where do you guys keep getting this T-Virus thing? I wouldn't even use it for WC'ing, it just looks badass... I'd stick it in my rig somewhere.


You can buy them from:
performance-pcs.com
frozencpu.com
frozenqpcmods.com


----------



## ny_driver

I have a 7 gallon reservoir, and when transferring liquids in and out hair gets in. Plus I didn't have the strainer on the hose.


----------



## Alexandro

That explains. It doesn't make it look less scary though







.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Well, those of us who own them are just badass people really.


----------



## ny_driver

Here are my GPU and CPU loops.........finally finished and working correctly.







the gpu loop worked perfect first try, but it took about 5 tries to get the chiller loop working good.

EDIT: it still does 4.5GHz


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Proud of you, bro.


----------



## valtopps

too many up-close pic i want to see the whole thing. also lets see where your mounting the rads, i need some ideas on where to mount them. i got a cheap $40 case and a triple rad that wont fit inside.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## isolated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Well, those of us who own them are just badass people really.










I wish to be one of the badass haha, but my pocket wouldn't allow me to.


----------



## loilane

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tech-Boy* 
Is that just uv colored tubing or dyed water? Or a combination of both?

Very nice color to it

Thanks. It is Feser red UV active tubing, no dye in the water. The light is the UV lamp. Did not want something that would light up my room at night, so went a bit subtle.


----------



## Wretch

My Latest update, Swiftech NB water block and probably the last liquid update for a while.

Dropped temps 2 Degrees C on the CPU, 4 Degrees C on my main/top video card and 10 degrees C on the NB itself.

Who knew adding that block would help in so many places besides where applied?


----------



## valtopps

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wretch* 



























My Latest update, Swiftech NB water block and probably the last liquid update for a while.

Dropped temps 2 Degrees C on the CPU, 4 Degrees C on my main/top video card and 10 degrees C on the NB itself.

Who knew adding that block would help in so many places besides where applied?










how did you mount your rad can we see a pic of it. i got a cheap case and a triple rad is not going inside of it.


----------



## Wretch

I'll see about getting some shots but it will be tricky moving it out far enough to get a good view.

Basically I used some universal mounting brackets to hold the rad and then just put some self taping screws into the case at just the right spot.

It is still a work in progress since I have to remove the rad to take the cover off or on.

Looking at more universal brackets mounted on the case and then either a pin or thumbscrews to attach rad brackets to it.


----------



## fabflix

Hey guys! Just got on this forum and I thought I'd post some pictures w/ my setup.


----------



## pac0tac0

^^ looks like ur water loop has a nose and a smile its just missing eyes.


----------



## fabflix

Hahaha, good one *pac0tac0*! Never thought of this before.


----------



## Tech-Boy

^ Oh so nice and clean! Colors work really well too!


----------



## Kinru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fabflix* 
Hey guys! Just got on this forum and I thought I'd post some pictures w/ my setup.











Where'd you put the rad, pump, and res? Trying to figure out my loop in a 902 as well


----------



## fabflix

The pump is in front mounted on the bracket that comes w/ the case and the rad is mounted at the back.













I need to change this crappy rad w/ a 360 as soon as possible.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *isolated* 
I wish to be one of the badass haha, but my pocket wouldn't allow me to.

I got lucky as mine probably wouldn't have allowed me to normally either. Heck, it's even more expensive for me once you convert it back into New Zealand dollars!


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Spider, I'm sending you two brand new GTX 460 1GBs.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth* 
Spider, I'm sending you two brand new GTX 460 1GBs.









Lol sweet...


----------



## thx1138

More pics in the link in my sig


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
More pics in the link in my sig









Lookin' good thx1138


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Lookin' good thx1138









Thanks man, it was a long time in the making with finding parts, waiting for them, etc... I'm pretty sure you were one of the guys who helped me out so thanks again.

I love the 7/16" tubing, huge difference over the 1/2". It's such a tight fit I only keep the clamps on for peace of mind.


----------



## SKI_VT

Hey anybody know if Someone here has already made a "Painted Black HAF 932 with White Tubing"?
im just curious as to how mine is gonna look









If you know or have seen it can you please post a Pic or direct me there?


----------



## bundymania

I like the purple tubing, is it from Danger Den ?


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Hey anybody know if Someone here has already made a "Painted Black HAF 932 with White Tubing"?
im just curious as to how mine is gonna look









If you know or have seen it can you please post a Pic or direct me there?

like dis?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexl* 
Few new pics:


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
like dis?

Yes <3









*Is there anyone else that has done this?
*
And mine will be so much Cleaner lol
I have a Drees kit for my Pump


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
I like the purple tubing, is it from Danger Den ?

Nope http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...e-220p1330.htm

I love it, much better than clear 1/2" ID 5/8" OD tygon I bought.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

The purple would be a nice UV effect, sir.


----------



## ecaftermath

Just added a GPU Block and EK Top.

Testing for leaks =D


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Wretch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *valtopps*


how did you mount your rad can we see a pic of it. i got a cheap case and a triple rad is not going inside of it.


Here are some quick dirty shots of the temporary mount I cobbled:










Looking from the top down:










Pay no attention to the wad of snakes or the dust, you see the maid who doubled as a snake wrangler quit a week or so ago.

I couldn't afford the time to drag it out for proper shots but will once I get the final mount system worked out.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Ha, snake wrangling maid.


----------



## valtopps

hey thanks for the pic but its way to close to see where you mounted it


----------



## Wretch

Too close to the case?
The bottom picture is just looking down from above right at where it's mounted to the case.
I haven't got enough room to get further away with the camera at the moment.

Note the side panel is just resting there and the mount is screwed to the back corner edge of the case.
Nothing mystical or trick about it although it could use a couple of more screws.

Today it's been GrandCentral Station here and it is an ordeal for me to move the machine right now.

I will keep it in mind for when life eases up on me enough to get back to it.


----------



## valtopps

thanks bud


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Man, radiators get really dusty.


----------



## Solmors

Damn, awesome thread. I spent a good portion of the last three days looking at every one of the nearly 4000 posts. Good work everyone, there are some beautiful rigs here.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


Man, radiators get really dusty.


So do Megahelems







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Solmors*


Damn, awesome thread. I spent a good portion of the last three days looking at every one of the nearly 4000 posts. Good work everyone, there are some beautiful rigs here.


Wow, that's a lot to go through in three days! Hopefully you're inspired to take the plunge







yourself







.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


So do Megahelems







.


Amen, bro, amen!









I'm just saying that because I have three radiators in my upcoming build.


----------



## Wretch

Looks worse than it is dust wise really.

My camera has a special dust enhancing lens/lighting so a little looks a foot deep.

I just cleaned that rad less than a week ago and one reason I went with a pull only is so I could clean it more easily.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RushMore1205

Dust is computers best friend


----------



## Wretch

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RushMore1205* 
Dust is computers best friend

Yes, they love it so much the fans sieze and the PSU's pop in the clinch...
...just like on my Dad's machine yesterday so, I told him he would need to set snares
for the dust bunnies that would evolve in his case if he wouldn't clean it out at least once a month.


----------



## Wretch

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

Uh Kevin, the shots on page 392 would be better than those of my dusty dirty filthy rad.









Thanks so much for the thread though.


----------



## ny_driver

Overhauled again, and modified the water-block too so it is high flow now.







Going for 5GHz in the morning.....running 4.5GHz/1.5v all the time.







Ahhhhhhh

What I did was removed the o-ring around the center and cut 4 grooves so more water can get through. I don't think it was designed with 3 gallons a minute in mind.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

A little update from my little rig:

New case came in a few days ago.









So I removed all the hardware and other things from the old atcs 840, and installed them in the HAF.
Push fan on the inside of the case, pull fan outside. Gives a bit more space on the inside!









GTX 460 and PSU installed.









Cable management: It looks a lot better now, all the cables on the bottom are hidden, same for the fan cables behind the mobo tray and 5.25" bay.









A look through the window

















Its red

























Thats it for now. The rig needs some better cpu/gpu cooling soon. Gtx480 incoming. I guess I should watercool at least the gtx, and maybe the cpu too.
Anyways, I love this case so far, really good cooling and a lot of options etc.

Here is the link to the worklog


----------



## bundymania

The Rad is on fire !


----------



## koruki

Dual radiator cooling. Quad at the top, Dual at bottom.
Layout is Res > Pump > 2XRad > GPU 1 > GPU2 > Chipset > Quad Rad > CPU > ...Res









ASUS GTX 480's with EK backplates. Bitspower fittings.









Sleeved Tygon 1/2" tubing. EK-Supreme Acetal CPU water block cooling Intel 6-Core i7 Gulftown 980X. EK full cover block for Rampage 3 cooling North and South Bridge.









ASUS GTX 480's SLI cooled by EK FC480 waterblock









Sleeved Corsair HX1000 PSU. Custom painted Noctua P12 fans cooling EK Quad Radiator. 3M Carbon fibre vinyl covering Corsair blue branding and SLI connector.









Corsair 800D case. Laing D5 water pump, EK BAY spin Reservior.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tzillian

koruki, how did you get the dual rad at the bottom without removing the hard drive cage? everyone else has always removed it. thanks.


----------



## mars-bar-man

This is my old rig, and my first attempt to watercool shiz..



























Specs:
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 4.3Ghz
DFI LT X48-T2R
4Gb Corsair Dominator 1,066Mhz (can't remember what I had it when it was OC'd)
Sapphire HD4870 512mb
Coolermaster Cosmos 1000

Cooling:
XSPC Single bay res/pump
XSPC Delta V3
XSPX 4870 Razor waterblock
XSPC RS240 radiator
2 Black Ice Stealth GT 120mm radiators

That's a lot of XSPC kit...

I'll throw some photos of my custom loop mITX rig when it's completed.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## MedRed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koruki*


Dual radiator cooling. Quad at the top, Dual at bottom...


sleeved tubing is sick!


----------



## t-ramp

Mars-bar-man, is that the Primochill UV stuff? I just ordered some if it is... and just realized I hadn't even looked at what size it was. But it's the right stuff (1/2" x 3/4"). Lucky, stupid me.


----------



## mars-bar-man

Nah, it's some rather thick clear tubing, size below 1/2" IIRC, 3/8"? And Feser 1 UV Red. It then got drained then PC Pure Blood Red was poured in instead. No photos of that though.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trampton*


Mars-bar-man, is that the Primochill UV stuff? I just ordered some if it is... and just realized I hadn't even looked at what size it was. But it's the right stuff (1/2" x 3/4"). Lucky, stupid me.


The Primochill UV isn't really that UV reactive, but it is a nice solid red color overall.









I'm pretty sure Bundymania did a write up on tubing not too long ago, check his sig for a link. It's good tubing to work with imo.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koruki* 











You're the only person I've ever come across who has the same branded RAM as me! Beautiful system. Nice to see the carbon fiber being used sparingly too. Looks far nicer that way. Also nice to see a very high end system looking elegant too. A great example of how one can balance performance with aesthetics.


----------



## koruki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
koruki, how did you get the dual rad at the bottom without removing the hard drive cage? everyone else has always removed it. thanks.

Hey, I removed the cage initially as well but as other have pointed out, the panel above it is quite weak and leans down. I decided to push the dual rad closer to the rear panel and put one side of the cage back in where it provides the move support. I was able to fit it back to its original position which means I could use the same rivet holes, if you were to do it, you'd just not remove it at all I think.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
You're the only person I've ever come across who has the same branded RAM as me! Beautiful system. Nice to see the carbon fiber being used sparingly too. Looks far nicer that way. Also nice to see a very high end system looking elegant too. A great example of how one can balance performance with aesthetics.

Thanks for your kind comment. The carbon fiber is only a few dollars a sheet so no reason not to use it sparingly =) I'm happy to hear you appreciate the effort I made to balance the performance with aesthetic.

As for the RAM, it might have something to do with the fact we are both from NZ. But reall it was cause the Dominator GT's were out of stock and one of my local shops said this ram was good. I google'd it and seemed to be pretty good.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koruki* 
Thanks for you kind comment. The carbon fiber is only a few dollars a sheet so no reason not to use it sparingly =) I'm happy to hear you appreciate the effort I made to balance the performance with aesthetic.

Ah I've just noticed you're from New Zealand as well. If you get a chance you should wander over to the New Zealand group that has been set up. Not many members at this stage. Would be fantastic to see you and your beautiful system over there as well


----------



## koruki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Ah I've just noticed you're from New Zealand as well. If you get a chance you should wander over to the New Zealand group that has been set up. Not many members at this stage. Would be fantastic to see you and your beautiful system over there as well









Yes I am, and you can imagine the pain in building such a system in NZ with the lack of parts and cost of overseas shipping.

Where is the NZ group, can you point me there?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koruki* 
Yes I am, and you can imagine the pain in building such a system in NZ with the lack of parts and cost of overseas shipping.

Where is the NZ group, can you point me there?

I most certainly can! I have been considering upgrading to an i7, a DFI X58 board and a 5850, but the prices are incredibly high, especially for a student! I am thinking of getting some of my parts from Australia as there are people over there who have offered to help me out if I need cheaper parts









Here is the link to the NZ club too







http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/5...-ocn-club.html


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koruki* 
Hey, I removed the cage initially as well but as other have pointed out, the panel above it is quite weak and leans down. I decided to push the dual rad closer to the rear panel and put one side of the cage back in where it provides the move support. I was able to fit it back to its original position which means I could use the same rivet holes, if you were to do it, you'd just not remove it at all I think.

Thanks for your kind comment. The carbon fiber is only a few dollars a sheet so no reason not to use it sparingly =) I'm happy to hear you appreciate the effort I made to balance the performance with aesthetic.

As for the RAM, it might have something to do with the fact we are both from NZ. But reall it was cause the Dominator GT's were out of stock and one of my local shops said this ram was good. I google'd it and seemed to be pretty good.

thanks man, thats a great build there. so youre saying i could just remove one side of the lower hard drive bay and keep the second one there for stability?


----------



## koruki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
thanks man, thats a great build there. so youre saying i could just remove one side of the lower hard drive bay and keep the second one there for stability?

Yes, the only problem would be that if you cut a grill it will not be aligned with the factory cut grill. I have 2 radiator stands holding it up to allow for airflow as I didn't wanna cut anything


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koruki* 
Yes, the only problem would be that if you cut a grill it will not be aligned with the factory cut grill. I have 2 radiator stands holding it up to allow for airflow as I didn't wanna cut anything

oh alright. got it. thanks.


----------



## Solmors

Hmm, can't decide if I want to join now, or wait and be the special 500th member... 

*** it, who cares what number you are anyways?










I don't know why the tubing looks orange in this picture, cause its defiantly red in person, and in the other photos. Must be the flash or something.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

Nice setup solmors :toast:


----------



## wermad

New cpu block and motherboard full cover block:


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Wow, Wer, it looks great!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

congrats wermad, you are now in the lead for most updates. ;-)


----------



## broken pixel

-
1st H20 PC








































--








---
2nd








----








-----








------








-------
D-Tek Fuzion v2 with custom top
















--------








---------








----------


----------



## AdvanSuper

Didn't get any answers in the Obsidian Thread, so I'll ask here...

I have a question for the 700D guys with WC setup...

Below is my current case and WC setup, I want to know where my best option is for mounting the pump? I'll probably be using all new tubing as well so disregard how the pump is setup now.










Another Q... How do you guys know all the air is out with dark colored tubing?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:

Another Q... How do you guys know all the air is out with dark colored tubing?
You dont really..
You have to look at the Res and give the tubing a couple squeezes here and there to make sure you move the bubbles along..


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Another Q... How do you guys know all the air is out with dark colored tubing?

When you don't hear bubbles going through the pump?


----------



## 12Cores

New Motherboard GA-EP45-UD3L

6 total gb of ram/windows 7 64bit

Finally hit the mythical 4ghz









proof -









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1368097


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
congrats wermad, you are now in the lead for most updates. ;-)

Thanks, I hope this is it for this build for a long while and someone over takes me







. Unless if I get an itch to add...hmmm.... bigger and another rad?, new pumps?, 3rd gpu block?...ok you got me thinking about more upgrades







. Must resist the upgrade bug....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Didn't get any answers in the Obsidian Thread, so I'll ask here...

I have a question for the 700D guys with WC setup...

Below is my current case and WC setup, I want to know where my best option is for mounting the pump? I'll probably be using all new tubing as well so disregard how the pump is setup now.










Another Q... How do you guys know all the air is out with dark colored tubing?


If you have a res, mount the pump in the lowest possible location, most put it at the bottom of the case (usually between the motherboard and drive/hdd cage). If you have a res, you can see the water level drop as air is escaping from your loop and the liquid it pushing it out too. Also gravity helps, and gravity is free







. Go for a clear res or one /w a level indicator and an additional port to open up and bleed the air. Takes a few mins to an hour or two to fully bleed. Though, by the looks of you setup you probably have a "T" setup which will make it more challenging to know if air is bled. if You go w/ the "T", jump start you psu and as mentioned listen for the air, you'll end up rocking you rig back and forth to bleed the air bubbles. A good compromise is both a "T" line and a small "micro" or bay res. good luck


----------



## MedRed

wow broken pixel. you're a mad scientists! I love the custom block and the squid like tubing setup!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I've honestly never bothered to bleed my loops. The air bubbles always work their way back into the res without any help from me. May take a day or two but I've never felt the need to bleed lol. Certainly hasn't noticeably affected performance either.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Well I don't have a res, so that's my reasoning behind asking.

Thanks for the responses.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Mora 3 Pro - both sides with Noiseblocker PL2 Fans !


----------



## merple

Looking good bundy, look forward to seeing what the temps are like on that.


----------



## fastsite

thats one insane rad hehe


----------



## Chicken Patty

how do you wire up sooo many fans? LOL


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

18x15 euro's on fans...


----------



## wermad

How does it compare to the Magicool 3x3 1080 rad?


----------



## JE Nightmare

I am now... case-less.










Within the next couple of days i'm going to try and start building a tech bench.


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
I am now... case-less.

Within the next couple of days i'm going to try and start building a tech bench.

they have a club for that


----------



## JE Nightmare

i didn't do it to join a club, i did it because my back hates computer cases.


----------



## loop0001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


i didn't do it to join a club, i did it because my back hates computer cases.










sounds logical


----------



## Freakn

Thought it was time to grab a cheap cooler set while I'm still looking into my full custom loop


----------



## fastsite

what kit is that?


----------



## Freakn

Here's the specs on it http://www.gbuintl.biz/spec/BA2-241.pdf

My Xiggy 1284 was hitting 54 deg/C while folding, so far this is topping out at 44. So for $140AUD I'm happy


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Nothing hugely exciting, just my temporary set up. Sporting a 20cm black and green T-Virus res, a Danger Den pump (no idea what it is exactly) as well as a 120mm radiator with an R4 on it and of course the Zalman WB5 Plus.

Had to use leftover tubing and didn't have enough to go from the rad to the CPU block, hence the elbow. This res is going to look beautiful in my CM 690 2 Advanced once the case has been powdercoated


----------



## fastsite

that looks pretty good for being a temp setup


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


that looks pretty good for being a temp setup


Thanks! I'm hoping to replace the CPU block with an EK Supreme. Pump is fine and I have a 240mm rad lying around as well that I'll use. Wanting to put the video card under water too with an EK full cover block. Either that or I'll get a 5850 and do the same to that too


----------



## fastsite

that will one sick setup


----------



## JE Nightmare

can't wait to see it in the 690.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


that will one sick setup


Should be good fun







Wish I could afford an i7 and a flash video card to go with it but being a student doesn't allow much room to move financially, nor does my location! (Everything is expensive in New Zealand







)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


can't wait to see it in the 690.










Thanks! I can't wait too


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Threw this together real quick, still have some work to do, I just didn't want to wait for 2 fittings to arrive, or possibly buy a bay reservoir. this will work for now.

HAF X


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Threw this together real quick, still have some work to do, I just didn't want to wait for 2 fittings to arrive, or possibly buy a bay reservoir. this will work for now.

HAF X

No more tech-bench? Or is that a separate build?


----------



## Chicken Patty

@ 88EVGAFTW

I think you should throw stuff together quickly all the time then if they will come out like that.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

why the HAF 88?

they are so ugly...

I expected better from you.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

why the HAF 88?

they are so ugly...

I expected better from you. 

pwnt...


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I realize the HAF series are not the greatest looking cases, especially the 932, but functionality, black interior, and price, drove me to get this. I am quite pleased with it, and I don't have to look at the front of it







I have it sideways on my desk.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
No more tech-bench? Or is that a separate build?

Im gonna use the tech bench for another system. Perhaps an i3 setup and get a dice pot, or make one cheap.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Im gonna use the tech bench for another system. Perhaps an i3 setup and get a dice pot, or make one cheap.

I like this.


----------



## ocman

Hi all, I wonder if there are any water blocks for ASUS P5Q PRO Turbo? Thanks in advance!


----------



## oliverw92

Whilst the HAF X is not the most attractive case, your setup makes it looks decent









Who's the chick in your avatar, 88?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Piper Fawn

I was thinking of moving the res to where the HDD cages are, that would get it out of the way.

You can thank me later for her


----------



## oliverw92

O nice rack rig


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


I realize the HAF series are not the greatest looking cases, especially the 932, but functionality, black interior, and price, drove me to get this. I am quite pleased with it, and I don't have to look at the front of it







I have it sideways on my desk.


True that. Awesome internally, but the outside is meh. Got mine turned to the side to









Also you should be able to fit the pump in the drive bays if you want to hide it. I was going to do that with mine at first. It depends on how much room your fan controller takes up though. You would have to put you dvd drive on the bottom and then the fan controller above it.


----------



## wermad

HAF looks industrial/military/ almost tank-like, like the apache attack-helicopter, it aint purrtty but its damn effective. I wish the X had been out when I got my 932, I would have had that over the 932


----------



## pewpewlazer

88, love the setup. Nicely done. I'm sure there are a lot of people who dig the HAF's militaristic look. I think it's a badass looking case. Totally different from a Lian Li or the likes though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


I am now... case-less.

*snip*

Within the next couple of days i'm going to try and start building a tech bench.


What fans are those on the radiator?


----------



## JE Nightmare

ffb1212eh is the fan.


----------



## pewpewlazer

Had a feeling they were Deltas... No wonder you can run 4.2 on a single rad


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pewpewlazer*


Had a feeling they were Deltas... No wonder you can run 4.2 on a single rad










among other reasons.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*


Piper Fawn


aka Ariel / Arielle / Gabrielle

Not that I know that or anything.


----------



## Freakn

I think I need to learn to leave things alone.

Couldn't resist taking the small universal CPU out of the Larkooler kit and chucking in my Swifteck GTZ in to see how much that inmproves things


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
aka Ariel / Arielle / Gabrielle

Not that I know that or anything.

Don't forget Faith lightspeed, and Gabrielle lupin.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

Any recommendations for a 360 rad?


----------



## rszanto

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Any recommendations for a 360 rad?

http://www.tilatech.com/products/EK-...28360%29-.html

Kick ass radiator that is thick and moves a lot of heat with low speed fans and an insane amount with med / high speed fans


----------



## markag

Hey Guys! I just finished my first water cooled build.

WC Components:

EK Supreme LT water block
XSPC RS360 radiator
Swiftech MCP655 pump
Swiftech MCRES Micro-Rev 2
1/2" bitspower fittings
7/17" ID x 5/8" OD PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red tubing
3x Scythe Kama Flex 120mm 1500rpm fans
My case is a HAF X and I'm running a Core i7 930 CPU on an EVGA X58 SLI LE Motherboard. My WC build thread is here: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...r-cooling.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

also, page 404, posts not found.


----------



## DevilGear44

Page 41 for us cool hip folk.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

yep, it'll take some time before i've got page 404


----------



## Corrupted

100 posts per page ftw, imo.


----------



## DevilGear44

OT: The lost & found at my high school is in room 404.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DevilGear44* 
OT: The lost & found at my high school is in room 404.









LOL! That's awesome!


----------



## Kinru

I have 1337 kids in my school >.<


----------



## tsjim

I also finished my WC build lately. Some pictures


----------



## DevilGear44

^Best rad fan EVAR


----------



## fshizl

ahahahahahahaha!!!! nice rad fan


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

100 posts per page is just too much to scroll through, i like nice short pages.


----------



## davista111

@ Warfarin88

That is one beautiful computer


----------



## SKI_VT

Hey you guys ever though of putting a Cylindrical Res right here?









Im trying to achive this in my 932 and its not looking to impossible with my 250mL Res









What do you guys think?


----------



## pac0tac0

tisjim first thing i said to my self when i say that setup was.... dam....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

100 posts per page is just too much to scroll through, i like nice short pages.

I can unlock my scroll wheel on my mouse. Only when gaming I lock it so it "clicks" if you scroll it. But now I just give it a spin and it ends up at the bottom in ~2 seconds


----------



## esp42089

Here is mine:
































































Gear:

HAF932
i7-980x with HK Supreme Nickel-Acetal
ASUS P6X58D-E mobo
Corsair XMS3 3x2Gb
ASUS ENGTX480 with EK FB480 block
Corsair TX950W Power supply
2x WD Caviar Black 1Tb Sata6 mirrored
MCP355 pump
XSPC RX360 rad sandwiched between 6 Scythe Gentle Typhoons
XSPC Single Bay Res
3/8" ID Tygon Antimicrobial all around with metal barbs and worm clamps
1/2" by 6" Local hardware store spring as anti-kink

A Screenshot of where it got without exceeding intel specs:


----------



## Tech-Boy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
I can unlock my scroll wheel on my mouse. Only when gaming I lock it so it "clicks" if you scroll it. But now I just give it a spin and it ends up at the bottom in ~2 seconds









Yeah I do the same thing. let me guess G9?


----------



## valtopps

i got one to love it


----------



## tsjim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DevilGear44* 
^Best rad fan EVAR

I just don't want to waste the stock 230mm case fans


----------



## Freakn

That silver tubing makes the non painted internal of your case look good, instead of looking out of place.

Nice work on the tube choice


----------



## bundymania

Next candidate for my Monster Rad comparison


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## frozenicex

Update with New Casing. HAF932 Black Edition.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Hey you guys ever though of putting a Cylindrical Res right here?









Im trying to achive this in my 932 and its not looking to impossible with my 250mL Res









What do you guys think?

can i atleas get one responce?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
can i atleas get one responce?

I have never seen it, but if it fits go for it...

there is no set place a res is supposed to go.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I have never seen it, but if it fits go for it...

there is no set place a res is supposed to go.

i have to do this because my Fermi is too Big








but it looks good


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
can i atleas get one responce?

It doesn't matter where your res goes, as long as the pump is below it. So if it fits there, and the water can still flow down to the pump, then go for it.


----------



## tzillian

thats where im planning on putting mine once i put the sr2 in my case. only room ill have left.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


can i atleas get one responce?


I've done it plenty of times before. You just have to have a res that fits there is all. A lot of people put the swiftech micro res there.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


can i atleas get one responce?


Something like this? its a 120mm+240mm koolance bodies, ~ 360-400mm total length of res, in my old haf 932 build.


----------



## fshizl

I would have put mine there but the window of the 800D blocks it... so i wouldnt have seen it...


----------



## SKI_VT

I just mounted it







Looks Beast!!

I had to use Modded Screws though So that makes it Even Better!!


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *frozenicex*


Update with New Casing. HAF932 Black Edition.


Looks awesome, love the red ram.

Tell me about that rad...what a monster.


----------



## Mikecdm

Here are a few pics of my Lian Li A05. It still needs some work, but will do that another day. Still need to sleeve some cables and do some work with the top grill. Also going to change out the tubing and barbs.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

u sure are johnny on the spot with updates


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loop0001* 
u sure are johnny on the spot with updates









I think i may be on OCN at least 12 out of the 24 hours of the day. 

i get bored in classes a lot...


----------



## xxlawman87xx

New setup: new pump on the way as well


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I think i may be on OCN at least 12 out of the 24 hours of the day. 

i get bored in classes a lot...

sounds about right. wish my job let me be connected to regular internet..
gosh i'd log over 15 hours a day on the comp then...ick


----------



## pewpewlazer

Added some home made shrouds (read: ruined 120mm LED fans)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## JE Nightmare

i found some wood out in the garage today, decided i didn't like how much space my computer was taking up so, this is how that turned out.



















yes, i use a whole dining table for my desk.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

and again, lol


----------



## JE Nightmare

makin you work.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Hey you guys ever though of putting a Cylindrical Res right here?









Im trying to achive this in my 932 and its not looking to impossible with my 250mL Res









What do you guys think?

I drilled some holes in my lian li and removed the pci quick release and put my micro res there... My pics are in my sig. I'll probably get a bigger cylinder res when I add my gpu to the loop. I'm a little concerned about the res eventually leaking and dripping water onto my psu and frying it. Or starting a fire, after all the plastic res's are usually the first to leak or so I've heard.


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
I drilled some holes in my lian li and removed the pci quick release and put my micro res there... My pics are in my sig. I'll probably get a bigger cylinder res when I add my gpu to the loop. I'm a little concerned about the res eventually leaking and dripping water onto my psu and frying it. Or starting a fire, after all the plastic res's are usually the first to leak or so I've heard.

That's alright the Lancool has that specially designed vent to prevent PSU fires from escaping the case lol








At least that was how my aluminum copy was advertised as.

Water would have to leak out the sides or flood the entire case since the PSU is raised above the bottom by like 1/2". But I don't think you have to worry about it too much.

I myself thought about sticking a mini FrozenQ res there. Then I thought about the practicality of it since it would be the lowest spot in my loop. Maybe I can flip it and use it as a really fancy drain port


----------



## t-ramp

So, I've finally gone and got blacklights and UV tubing. The window isn't even facing me at my desk, though, but the calendar on my wall lights up pretty good.









Anyway...

Corsair D4 pump
Bitspower Black Freezer 5870 full-cover GPU block
Enzotech Sapphire SCW-Rev.A CPU block
Swiftech Micro Reservoir V1
XSPC RX240 radiator
with 4x Yate Loon fans in push/pull on rad and 3 more in case

I haven't gotten around to overclocking yet, but hopefully I can do so within a couple of days.


----------



## R00ST3R

^^Now that's some UV goodness^^. Have any pics of the entire build? Looks like you have your rad mounted externally?


----------



## t-ramp

That's the most I have right now. The tubing from the CPU block goes to the reservoir, which is directly mounted to the radiator via one of these (it came with my GPU block). Then I've got a mile of tubing coming back down to the pump.

The radiator is mounted by some 6-32 screws that run through a shroud and one fan.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

also:





















































































































that is the last of everything i need to finish classy finally.


----------



## R00ST3R

@trampton - Overall looks pretty good







Could stand to have them cables cleaned up a bit, but I'm sure you'll work that out over time







.

@kevingreenbmx - Nice upgrades man


----------



## t-ramp

Maybe.







It's a mess behind the motherboard tray. For now I'm not too concerned.

Looks nice, Kevin. I'll make sure to check up on your log to see the finished product.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trampton* 
So, I've finally gone and got blacklights and UV tubing. The window isn't even facing me at my desk, though, but the calendar on my wall lights up pretty good.









Anyway...

Corsair D4 pump
Bitspower Black Freezer 5870 full-cover GPU block
Enzotech Sapphire SCW-Rev.A CPU block
Swiftech Micro Reservoir V1
XSPC RX240 radiator
with 4x Yate Loon fans in push/pull on rad and 3 more in case

I haven't gotten around to overclocking yet, but hopefully I can do so within a couple of days.

Wow that definitely makes me want to ditch my purple cathodes and go UV. Good luck with the OC.


----------



## mars-bar-man

Here's my latest build, it's finally finished. Well almost, have ordered a new pump top because this one leaks like a beast.



















Do need some cable management though :/


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.












































































































that is the last of everything i need to finish classy finally.

Nice! Ive been waiting for them to get Black Rotary 90's!


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *frozenicex* 
Update with New Casing. HAF932 Black Edition.





































This is soooooo nice!

Love the Clean Black look. I can haz it? Pwease!!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vermillion* 
Nice! Ive been waiting for them to get Black Rotary 90's!









I actually wanted more 45's but they only had 2 in stock.

they also only had 1 of the extensions in stock, so I just made another order from performance-pcs.com with 1x g1/4 extender, 2x 45 g1/4 rotaries, and 20ft of black 18g wire.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Is the EK 360 rad a good choice? Or should I look at something else? The only thing pushing me towards it is the price. I currently have a Hardware Labs Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator and looking to go triple rad since I'll be getting a 700D.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Is the EK 360 rad a good choice? Or should I look at something else? The only thing pushing me towards it is the price. I currently have a Hardware Labs Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator and looking to go triple rad since I'll be getting a 700D.

It's decent, but nothing special. Swiftech and XSPC RS series rads do about as well, though Swiftech is generally lower quality (even though none of the 3 companies make their own radiators, though HWLabs does).


----------



## wermad

the xspc rx360 is better and priced about ~$5-10 more. Im planning to get three soon


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp* 
It's decent, but nothing special. Swiftech and XSPC RS series rads do about as well, though Swiftech is generally lower quality (even though none of the 3 companies make their own radiators, though HWLabs do).

Is it worth it at all to get a 360 rad? Or should I just save my money? How much of an actual drop would I get with a 360 over a 240?


----------



## wermad

stick w/ the 240 for your cpu, its good enough, if your gonna add gpu block(s) later, than invest in the 360 rad. good luck


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
stick w/ the 240 for your cpu, its good enough, if your gonna add gpu block(s) later, than invest in the 360 rad. good luck









Exactly this, would have said something along these lines.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp* 
Exactly this, would have said something along these lines.









Yeah, what I figured and I'll just save the money for something else. I also won't be adding GPU's to the loop. Just gonna get another Ultra Kaze and some other random small things. Should I invest in a res or just keep it "closed" with just the fill port?

Thanks for the replies.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Should I invest in a res or just keep it "closed" with just the fill port?

That depends on how you want the setup to look, honestly.


----------



## cyronn

I have updated mine since last time I posted on this thread not quite finished still have to add the uv lights and blue cathods. Also missing 3 normal compression fittings due to they didnt have any in stock when I ordered my gpu block and other fittings.


----------



## bundymania

The Tubing looks very nice !


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp* 
That depends on how you want the setup to look, honestly.

Yeah, never mind I was just looking at the prices of some of those fancy ones







lol.


----------



## infinite illusions

That blue tubing looks really nice


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
The Tubing looks very nice !










Quote:


Originally Posted by *infinite illusions* 
That blue tubing looks really nice

It does, what kind is it?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Would this work as a "Y" fitting so to speak?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27721

I would basically use right angle barbs so they point upwards for my fillport and and rad outlet that connect to the pump inlet. Could I piece this together for cheaper as well? I want to get rid of my plastic Y splitter I currently have.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Would this work as a "Y" fitting so to speak?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27721

I would basically use right angle barbs so they point upwards for my fillport and and rad outlet that connect to the pump inlet. Could I piece this together for cheaper as well? I want to get rid of my plastic Y splitter I currently have.

yea, that would work. ;-)


----------



## tzillian

hey guys, needing some advice on my new extreme overkill sr2, tri sli build.

link to build log here.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...build-sr2.html

im looking to place on of those 1080 rads on the outside of the case in order to cool everything. full board block, both cpu's and 3 gtx 480's
something like this:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29061

i will be running it with scythe ap 14's and am looking for my best option. thanks for the help.
would be willing to change fans though if needed.


----------



## SimpleTech

That Mo-Ra 3 should be plenty. Just make sure you have a dual DDC setup to accommodate all of that restriction.


----------



## tzillian

I've got dual D5's for it.


----------



## SKI_VT

heres my Baby

































Left over Barbs


----------



## tzillian

looks nice, although im pretty sure you put the inlet hose of your cpu block on the wrong side. i think ek products have the inlet on the left side.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
looks nice, although im pretty sure you put the inlet hose of your cpu block on the wrong side. i think ek products have the inlet on the left side.

ahh Damn....
Ill have to check tomorrow cuz im tired..

But all i've done is leak test it and my res failed but ill check out the block for sure !
I dont feel like having it broken..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

Ok, Seriously?
Do you ever Sleep?
Im like dying cuz my contacts are peeling of my Eye balls.. -__-


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Ok, Seriously?
Do you ever Sleep?
Im like dying cuz my contacts are peeling of my Eye balls.. -__-

hahaha. yea, i do.

I actually just got back from chillin at a friend's house and was checking the forums before sleep. 2:00 am is about my limit most of the time...


----------



## Sean W.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Ok, Seriously?
Do you ever Sleep?
Im like dying cuz *my contacts are peeling of my Eye balls*.. -__-

haha know thje feeling


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
ahh Damn....
Ill have to check tomorrow cuz im tired..

But all i've done is leak test it and my res failed but ill check out the block for sure !
I dont feel like having it broken..









Yeah the inlet is on the left and outlet is on the right. Nice rig









I got the gold plated EK block too


----------



## SimpleTech

Updated my main rig with a XSPC Dual DDC bay reservoir (only one pump) and reorganized my cabling. Removed the back fan grill. I also remembered to put the I/O shield back on. lol

Sorry about the lack of lighting. My basement has two light bulbs, both are CFL 26w.


----------



## geniusloci

I kind of posted that into the wrong thread= Fixing that now:

Some final images from hwbg Aquila:





































Most of the work can be seen with explanations in Bulgarian here. Sorry, but I didn't have time to write an English article, and now I'm working in Aquila Mark II now, which is Intel based


----------



## fastsite

thats one sick looking rig you have there


----------



## MedRed

Those pictures are over 9,000!... resolution that is... sweet rig


----------



## bundymania

...will fit in xbox 360 slim


----------



## Oli4v

Dual loops Lian Li V1000b II Plus


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

that is a very strange dual loop setup...

I am impresses with how much hardware is crammed into that case though, good job.


----------



## SKI_VT

Fixed the Inlet/outlet on my Ek Supreme








also fixed the leak in my Res with some Good-ol'-Teflon


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

how predictable...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
how predictable...
















I am an updated bot.


----------



## tzillian

hey, do you guys think this will support the weight of a 480mm feser rad at the back?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25631


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
hey, do you guys think this will support the weight of a 480mm feser rad at the back?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25631

I would assume so......

Quote:

Heavy steel construction supports heavier radiators (such as 4-fan sizes) with minimal movement.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Fixed the Inlet/outlet on my Ek Supreme








also fixed the leak in my Res with some Good-ol'-Teflon









http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ect/WC2009.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ect/WC2005.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ect/WC2002.jpg

Black & White = WIN








That rig looks really cool


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Black & White = WIN








That rig looks really cool









Thank you sir









Scroll up a little so you can see the other Pics


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Thank you sir









Scroll up a little so you can see the other Pics









lol, I've seen them too, though didnt multi quote them


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
lol, I've seen them too, though didnt multi quote them









i left it Leak testing since this morning so im gonna go check on how its doing









I also got that Indigo Extreme on my CPU so i gotta go weld that between my CPu and Waterblock lol


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Good luck with it








I hope it doesnt leak... I hate leaking watercooling


----------



## MotO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 









What size tubing is this?


----------



## NoGuru

3/4


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MotO* 
What size tubing is this?

1/2 ID by 3/4 OD

Its preeeeetty big and its got some weight to it








Also pretty hard to make tight bends with out Kinks


----------



## pewpewlazer

I'm digging the black/white combo. Very nice!


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pewpewlazer* 
I'm digging the black/white combo. Very nice!

Haha thanks









ohh and guess what?
Me being the ****** that im, i installed the Indigo Extreme with my case in the upright position














i didnt even realize it until i was done!

But anyways im getting idle temps 37-39 so i might just reinstall the freaking thing again...


----------



## pewpewlazer

Ouch, that sucks. Those things aren't cheap. How are your load temps?

It's way too late to go back and change everything, but it would be really nice if there was a way to sort the member list by case. So if you wanted to see all the watercooled P182s or HAF 932s or Lian Lis and so forth you could just go to the front page and have them all grouped together.


----------



## JE Nightmare

ha, that's WAY to much effort and there is just to many cases out there. time saver is to just aim for finding the club for that case ( if there is one )


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pewpewlazer* 
Ouch, that sucks. Those things aren't cheap. How are your load temps?

It's way too late to go back and change everything, but it would be really nice if there was a way to sort the member list by case. So if you wanted to see all the watercooled P182s or HAF 932s or Lian Lis and so forth you could just go to the front page and have them all grouped together.

i get two applications in one package









I'll run my temps in a sec and get back to you


----------



## JE Nightmare

i'm still to damn scared to buy some indigo, not to keen on the idea of running with my pump off.


----------



## KShirza1

Rampage II on blocks!


----------



## SimpleTech

Almost 24 hours and no new posts? My goodness people, we need to keep Kevin preoccupied.

New block to replace my Heatkiller (LGA 1156 setup):


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Almost 24 hours and no new posts? My goodness people, we need to keep Kevin preoccupied.

New block to replace my Heatkiller (LGA 1156 setup):











New block and you've already managed to scratch the top?







Beautiful looking block though. Loving that stunning mirror finish!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
New block and you've already managed to scratch the top?







Beautiful looking block though. Loving that stunning mirror finish!

Lol. Na, it's okay. I think that was from the machining. Had a slight fingerprint when I took off the protective back covering. Who knows.









Thanks!


----------



## JE Nightmare

nope, you scratched it, way to go.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
nope, you scratched it, way to go.


----------



## fastsite

thats shexy


----------



## JE Nightmare

hope you rinse that out before you put it to use.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
thats shexy

Iron Man doesn't like to be talked to like that.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
hope you rinse that out before you put it to use.









I think most of the lint particles are wedged between the metal and acrylic. I can't seem to get them out without removing the acrylic cover which I will not do. When I did that to clean out my EK 5870 block, it was a pain to get the o-ring back in. I had to use some scotch tape and some carefully maneuvering to get the cover + o-ring seated correctly.


----------



## JE Nightmare

so, sounds like you're being lazy.


----------



## bob808

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ridn3y* 
CPU block: Enzotech Luna Rev.A
GPU block: MCW60 Rev.2
Reservoir: XSPC Dual Bay DDC Res
Pump: MCP-350
Tubings: PrimoFlex LRT Black 3/8"ID 1/2"OD
Fittings: Bitspower Compression Fittings for 3/8"ID 1/2"OD tubings
Radiator: Feser Monsta 420/360 Xchanger
Fans: YateLoon Medium 140mm rated 1450rpm 60CFM 29dbA (Push+Pull)
Case: Lian-Li PC7-FW

*Phenom Monsta*
































watercooling FTW!

Mammoth rad is Mammoth! Most of the time I think external rads look terra-bad but I like this mammoth monster! It looks natural there like an extension of the case itself, but please tell how the heack you plug in your monitor cable?!
+rep


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Almost 24 hours and no new posts? My goodness people, we need to keep Kevin preoccupied.

I think he died. He hasnt updated in over a day!


----------



## blu3phoenix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 




































Ironman can't stop looking at himself


----------



## R00ST3R

Finally sold my old '96 Ford Ranger yesterday. Time to feed the fitting addiction.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


I think he died. He hasnt updated in over a day!


Nope, i have been alive, and i have been checking.









I only do updates for posts with full systems in them though, not just parts.









so there has yet to be a post that requires an update...


----------



## RatDog

Current gear:
Intel i7 870 1156
EVGA SC GTX 470
Ausu P7P55D-E Mobo
Swiftech MCP655-B
Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2 reservoir
EK Waterblocks EK-FC470 GTX Nickel Plexi 
Danger Den MC-TDX Block for LGA 1156 i7
Swiftech MCR320-QPRad
Primochill Â½ x Â¾ green tubing
Feser one green coolent
Bitspower Â½â€ stubby barbs
White snap clips
3x Scythe Kaze-Jyun 1900 RPM / 110 CFM fans
6 channel Kaze Pro
2x 140mm Corsair installed fans


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## JE Nightmare

not that big of a fan of the green coolant, everything else looks alright though.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RatDog*


http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3196&pictureid=18188

http://www.overclock.net/picture.php...ictureid=18189

Current gear:
Intel i7 870 1156
EVGA SC GTX 470
Ausu P7P55D-E Mobo
Swiftech MCP655-B
Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2 reservoir
EK Waterblocks EK-FC470 GTX Nickel Plexi 
Danger Den MC-TDX Block for LGA 1156 i7
Swiftech MCR320-QPRad
Primochill Â½ x Â¾ green tubing
Feser one green coolent
Bitspower Â½" stubby barbs
White snap clips
3x Scythe Kaze-Jyun 1900 RPM / 110 CFM fans
6 channel Kaze Pro
2x 140mm Corsair installed fans


looks nice my friend


----------



## Tank

Heres my rig before I tear her down to move. also didnt have a camera to update my stuff when i changed everything from my old setup.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 




































Any consideration in adding the nickel back plate? I know its pure aesthetics


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Any consideration in adding the nickel back plate? I know its pure aesthetics









Keeps it looking clean after running with distilled water. The oxygen will mix with the copper and turn it a slight blackish color. The nickel plating somewhat helps prevent this.


----------



## Phobos223

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Any consideration in adding the nickel back plate? I know its pure aesthetics









I just put a backplate on a 5870 block and it looks pretty sweet man. It's worth it just for that in my book







Plus I guess it might help the card from warping over time


----------



## wermad

lol true, well some back plates are useful for cards w/ ram on the back. It definitely gives the cards a sweeter look, since the back is what you'll see more frequently.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

so...

who wants to see an update on my build?









head over to my worklog and post if you want to motivate me to take pics.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

alright guys... enough of that in the watercooling thread, take that to OT.









slightly more on topic: CHECK OUT MY WORKLOG UPDATE (link in my sig)









let me know what you think.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Its awesome Kevin


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*


Its awesome Kevin










haha, thanks again.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


not that big of a fan of the green coolant, everything else looks alright though.


Neither am I, it was on sale at Microcenter for $8US vs $19US for all the other colors. Also, I was told to go 1/2 x 3/4 on the tubing and green was the only color they had at that dimension. I want to rebuild the system with black 7/16 tubes, add bitspower black compression fittings or black 1/2 barbs and add a 140mm Feser on that back fan. I can't decide if I want to go clear fluid or black fluid for a black on black on black look.

I also have been considering either a second 140 rad on that spot between the PS and the Mobo or to yank that lower HD cage and mod the bottom to put a 140.2 rad down there. /shrug.

This WC stuff is addictive, I just want to keep adding


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RatDog*


Neither am I, it was on sale at Microcenter for $8US vs $19US for all the other colors. Also, I was told to go 1/2 x 3/4 on the tubing and green was the only color they had at that dimension. I want to rebuild the system with black 7/16 tubes, add bitspower black compression fittings or black 1/2 barbs and add a 140mm Feser on that back fan. I can't decide if I want to go clear fluid or black fluid for a black on black on black look.

I also have been considering either a second 140 rad on that spot between the PS and the Mobo or to yank that lower HD cage and mod the bottom to put a 140.2 rad down there. /shrug.

This WC stuff is addictive, I just want to keep adding










I like your ideas on improving your loop, except the "black coolant" part. You're right about the addicting part for sure







. Our support group will be meeting in the church basement on Wednesday's and Friday's, be sure to remember your lines...."Hello, my name is RatDog, and I'm a Water-Cool-aholic".


----------



## Phobos223

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


I'll have to take notice of this next time i go to... look her up.



LoL yea man she is hot... So hot she needs a full coverage block over her... umm... south bridge


----------



## bundymania

BLING BLING !


----------



## newpc

just an update with my new case









sorry i dont have a good camera


----------



## kevingreenbmx

bundy, that block looks AMAZING.

newpc, your pics do not work for me...


----------



## Kepi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newpc* 
just an update with my new case









sorry i dont have a good camera




































newpc i had to fix your links. Very nice loop you got there


----------



## cyronn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
It does, what kind is it?

its xspc blue uv tubing 1/2 3/4. nothing that special.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
The Tubing looks very nice !










Quote:


Originally Posted by *infinite illusions* 
That blue tubing looks really nice

Thanks sry for the late reply's


----------



## newpc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kepi* 
newpc i had to fix your links. Very nice loop you got there









thanks kepi


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Phobos223

Sweet case newPC! That plexi on the top is awesome!


----------



## R00ST3R

Hello fellow water cooling enthusiasts! I'm here to shamelessly pander for your vote in this months BUM competition. It's my hope that, with your help, I'm able to take down any money frontin' sucka on a humma that get's in my way.

More information can be found at the link below:
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...eeds-your.html

Thank's, R00ST3R.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Hello fellow water cooling enthusiasts! I'm here to shamelessly pander for your vote in this months BUM competition. It's my hope that, with your help, I'm able to take down any money frontin' sucka on a humma that get's in my way.

More information can be found at the link below:
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...eeds-your.html

Thank's, R00ST3R.









pimped rig


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*









pimped rig



































































88EVGAFTW, your knowledge of scientific biological transmogrophication's is only matched by your zest for kung-fu treachery!







...and I hope I can count on your vote







.


----------



## JE Nightmare

dear sweet jesus, what have you done.


----------



## RushMore1205

i absolutly love it, nice work, Stay Pimpn


----------



## mastical

Dont think I ever posted a pic yet. My HAF is too small now.

My res makes a wirling sound and creates air bubbles in the res as of recently, any ideas whats causing it?


----------



## JE Nightmare

a cyclone.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
a cyclone.

Exactly, how can I calm this storm? This res doesnt have a divider at the bottom.


----------



## wermad

Im totally ignorant on the t-virus res, but does water flow inside those spirals? Im guessing its not so having and inlet and outlet so close together will cause turbulence, ?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
Exactly, how can I calm this storm? This res doesnt have a divider at the bottom.

are you a handy man? you can always make one.


----------



## Kepi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Im totally ignorant on the t-virus res, but does water flow inside those spirals? Im guessing its not so having and inlet and outlet so close together will cause turbulence, ?

i dont think that his res is a t-virus one thats just strips of silver coils?


----------



## mastical

Yea just ugly siler coil. Ok thx Nightmare, ill try to add a piece in there this weekend.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kepi* 
i dont think that his res is a t-virus one thats just strips of silver coils?

ah! I can see that now, thanks dude









Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
Exactly, how can I calm this storm? This res doesnt have a divider at the bottom.


As JE said, make one or if your res has a port on the top, make that your inlet and keep the outlet at the bottom for the pump. Or just get a res that has one, both my koolance res tubes have them


----------



## JE Nightmare

just make sure it's high enough from the base, 2-3 inches to be safe.


----------



## Kinru

Are cyclones bad?


----------



## wermad

I guess the smother the flow throughout the loop will ensure unnecessary pressure will not build up and cause any concerns/issues. Maybe helps the impeller w/ a nice smooth flow rather than a crazy one. just my


----------



## tzillian

hey guys, just got my case modded for the sr2. nothing but the mobo itself fits in that thing now. what are the best options for mounting 2x480 rads on top and on back of the case?


----------



## wermad

use rad brackets, there are quite a few different types. most attach to any fan mounting/holes.


----------



## tzillian

any recommendations? when i do a search for radiator brackets the stuff that shows up dosent look like it will work.


----------



## wermad

XSPC brackets, but depending on your setup, you might wanna research. an alternative, which I did to front mount a 360 on a HAF 932, raid the hardware store and get/make some makeshift brackets, most common rad screws are 6/32 (US) and M4 or M3 (Metric).


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kinru* 
Are cyclones bad?

Yes, they allow air to get down to the level of the outlet line that usually is connected to your pump. This will induce air into the lines which will increase the noise and reduce the cooling efficiency of a loop at a minimum. Worst case most pumps do not self prime so if you get a large enough bubble at the inlet the pump will stop working (WC pumps push water great, but suck water terribly which is why most put a res in front of the inlet to feed the pump).

Pump stop working in the middle of the night and your temps will go through the roof without you knowing it, possibly damaging all your gear.

Cyclones are very bad.


----------



## wermad

Not 100% sure, but I think cyclones are swirling air currents (ala hurricanes, tornados). whirlpools are the swirling vortexes (plural correct







) in fluid/liquid. someone correct me if Im wrong









Big No-No to have swirly in your res


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Not 100% sure, but I think cyclones are swirling air currents (ala hurricanes, tornados). whirlpools are the swirling vortexes (plural correct







) in fluid/liquid. someone correct me if Im wrong









Big No-No to have swirly in your res










Tbh, I just call it a vortex because it sounds badass.







I mean how awesome does this sound? "I have a vortex in my T-Virus"


----------



## Gdfthr248

First loop I've ever put together, welcome and ideas, thoughts, or comments!

MCP655 pump
XSPC Res
Magicool 240 and 120 rad
EK 470 blocks
Heatkiller 3.0 LC
Misc Bitspower compression fittings
PrimoFlex 3/8 ID
Distilled water with silver coil

Also my first attempt at a case mod, cut the side of my CM 690 II to see the inner workings!


----------



## Sean W.

looks great! i cant see anything to nit pick about... great job!

whatr your temps like?


----------



## Gdfthr248

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sean W.*


looks great! i cant see anything to nit pick about... great job!

whatr your temps like?


Can't say yet, just finished installing the OS







What did you hit with your 965?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gdfthr248*


What did you hit with your 965?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Robitussin

First Loop









IandH Stealthres > GTX560 > EK HF Full Nickel > MCP655


----------



## Freakn

@ Robitussin

Do you have 2 tubes running between you res & pump?


----------



## Robitussin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freakn* 
@ Robitussin

Do you have 2 tubes running between you res & pump?

haha yeh I didn't have enough stop plugs to plug all the holes so i just ran a loop of nothing till the plugs arrive, prolly gonna make it the drain port, i shoulda said something before hand haha


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robitussin* 
haha yeh I didn't have enough stop plugs to plug all the holes so i just ran a loop of nothing till the plugs arrive, prolly gonna make it the drain port, i shoulda said something before hand haha

Nice







. you can use the pump to drain the loop quicker, just stop shy of empty to avoid running the pump dry, then just flush it using your good ol' lungs


----------



## Sean W.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gdfthr248* 
Can't say yet, just finished installing the OS







What did you hit with your 965?

i cant get stable over 3.8 ghz...









my idle temp is 27Â° and load its about 36Â°


----------



## bundymania

How du you like the new fittings from Enzotech ?




























*Review:*

http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=1032&page=1
































































The Danger Den Fullcover Block fits on the GTX480


----------



## Sean W.

i have those Enzotech barbs


----------



## Robitussin

Yeh i have the enzotech compression fittings they are great, getting some stop plugs and a drain line now


----------



## bundymania

Here i show you a complete Armada of Phobya Radiators :


----------



## loop0001

i like the 4 ports instead of 2..gives some more flexibility and cant get enough of that


----------



## R00ST3R

Yes! My fittings arrived today!










Just a few more hundred dollar bills worth, and I won't have any tubing


----------



## Squirrel-666

Will This Persuade You Enough To Let Me Join
















My Fav NIGHT SHOT








1/2 XSPC clearflex tubing
Black Kink Coils
6 Feser 1/2 Comp Fittings
XSPC Dual Bay res/750Lph Pump
Black Ice GT Stealth 280 Rad
Swiftech Apogee GTZ Block
Feser 1 UV Acid Green Coolant(AKA Alien Jizz







)


----------



## Squirrel-666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Yes! My fittings arrived today!










Just a few more hundred dollar bills worth, and I won't have any tubing









Wait your whole loop is gonna be nothing but fittings

no tubing WHAT SO EVER haha nice 1 bud very different indeed


----------



## PcKiller

OMG, Those things are not computers, they are artificial hearts!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Squirrel-666* 
Will This Persuade You Enough To Let Me Join

Yes







. Nice build!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Squirrel-666* 
Wait your whole loop is gonna be nothing but fittings

no tubing WHAT SO EVER haha nice 1 bud very different indeed









We'll see...I have an addiction to fittings...must have new ones on a regular basis to keep from FREAKING OUT!!


----------



## Dustinthewind

Lol, a loop with no tubing....
That would be quite sexy








and expensive....D:


----------



## Baron von Ottobat

Wanted to post a some pictures of my first loop, haven't checked temps just yet.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Baron von Ottobat* 
Wanted to post a some pictures of my first loop, haven't checked temps just yet.

























































You need to host the pictures first with an image hosting site.


----------



## Squirrel-666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Yes







. Nice build!

We'll see...I have an addiction to fittings...must have new ones on a regular basis to keep from FREAKING OUT!!









aaahhhh so your a fittings junkie got to have new 1s or you could go cold turkey lol fair shout to you bud cant wait to see the rig with no tubing








i know my builds not as nice but it does the job







changing soon thou got a ATC 840 and 360 rad coming my way


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Squirrel-666*


aaahhhh so your a fittings junkie got to have new 1s or you could go cold turkey lol fair shout to you bud cant wait to see the rig with no tubing








*i know my builds not as nice* but it does the job







changing soon thou got a ATC 840 and 360 rad coming my way










Ummmm, obviously you haven't seen it with the "Black Dynamite" treatment yet







. Which reminds me, to remind YOU's, to please take a moment and vote in this months BUM competition. 
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...eeds-your.html

Remember, voting is YOUR right as member of the OCN community







.


----------



## Baron von Ottobat

Yeah, I fixed it and they're up now.


----------



## Baron von Ottobat

I actually picked up a new case last weekend but in has 92mm fans so I either need four individual radiators or a quad which apparently aren't made in the 92mm size.


----------



## Squirrel-666

R00ster i tried to vote then realised i couldnt lol not enough reps to be able to







but now i know what you mean when you say black dynamite lol
seen girls PIMPed,cars and bikes PIMPed heck ive even seen bulldogs,pitbulls and rottys PIMPed but never a pc haha(my fiance keeps telling me to build a pink 1 for the love of god)


----------



## Dustinthewind

R00ster how many fittings do you already have
o-o


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Squirrel-666*


R00ster i tried to vote then realised i couldnt lol not enough reps to be able to







but now i know what you mean when you say black dynamite lol
seen girls PIMPed,cars and bikes PIMPed heck ive even seen bulldogs,pitbulls and rottys PIMPed but never a pc haha(my fiance keeps telling me to build a pink 1 for the love of god)


You can vote, you have to contact [PWN]Shubie: http://www.overclock.net/private.php?do=newpm&u=52172

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dustinthewind*


R00ster how many fittings do you already have 
o-o


7 dual rotary connectors, 2 weird cube thingy's, and compression fittings throughout. Going to add those four "5 rotary snake fittings" this weekend.


----------



## Squirrel-666

@R00ster - all done so should be able to soon








@Dustinthewind - To Many and if im correct now i know why theres such a shortage of fittings like BP etc lol


----------



## Lolan

I'm in!


























Worklog in sig


----------



## nascasho

My very first loop, never in 1000yrs did I ever think I would jump onto the water scene:










Been running for around 3 days so far...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## fshizl

Lolan, that res looks like it might be leaking


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


Lolan, that res looks like it might be leaking


ITs gonna leak trust me..
I had mine leaking like a waterspout until i put Teflon tape on the Threads.

You see the red stuff where the res screws on to the top and bottom?
Thats leaking sign!!


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


ITs gonna leak trust me..
I had mine leaking like a waterspout until i put Teflon tape on the Threads.

You see the red stuff where the res screws on to the top and bottom?
Thats leaking sign!!










wait the res i sold you leaked? lol wow im glad i got the i and h instead...


----------



## oliverw92

Ek quality control on the reservoirs has really dropped. It has gone down hill ever since they changed from high quality acetal milled reservoirs to injection moulded crappy cheap-plastic ones.


----------



## nascasho

^^^ I was wondering what the white tops looked like!

Btw, those pics are epic.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*












interesting ram block







, I've heard of MIPS but didn't think they made so much stuff. Are they European exclusive?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


wait the res i sold you leaked? lol wow im glad i got the i and h instead...


yea that one








BUt its ok








I caught it in the Leak test and it wasn't a big deal


----------



## Confessed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*





















Just the thought...


----------



## Jamanious

just an update to my current build, wire's still messy as can be but I'm lazy :\\

The Inside:








Back plate & koolance temp probes (that seem to not work with my Lamtron FC6








Lamptron FC6


----------



## OverSightX

Finally jumpe on the custom band wagon. just purchased these parts off another OCN member and put it together last night. First custom water build for me.

Heres mine:


----------



## ssgwright

update to my system


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mav2000

Updated setup:


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mav2000* 
Updated setup:
snip

Link to that temp gauge and is it water proof? Thanks.


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nascasho* 
My very first loop, never in 1000yrs did I ever think I would jump onto the water scene:










Been running for around 3 days so far...

please more pics, what size heatshrink did you use?


----------



## B-roca

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lolan* 
I'm in!










Worklog in sig









You might want to fix that kink in the tubing above the gfx card


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`* 
please more pics, what size heatshrink did you use?

Edit : thought you asked what heatsink...


----------



## Legacy8500

Where can I get a white acetal EK Supreme like oliver? And it looks like he has black mounting screws. No fair I want.


----------



## R00ST3R

Well I installed my new fittings. Not quite sure I like how it looks, mainly wanted to see if I could link the CPU and GPU with just fittings.


















Left the leopard skin stuff on the PSU just for fun







.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Rooster, where is the disco ball?


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Edit : thought you asked what heatsink...

Ha ok so what is the size?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Rooster, where is the disco ball?









Just for you buddy







.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Just for you buddy







.

http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...T/dbins001.jpg

Ah sweet









Now its time to party


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Just for you buddy







.










You sir need a Strobe light


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
You sir need a Strobe light
















Oh yes, I thought of that, but I didn't want to get TOO carried away


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Oh yes, I thought of that, but I didn't want to get TOO carried away









What ???!?!?!!!?!?
Getting Carried away would be:

Installing a wood floor on the bottom of the case
Putting Roller Skates on your case
and having a Dj Stand with Daft Punk DJ'ing
Now Thats! Getting Carried away!
A strobe only makes your fans seem that much cooler!
and it also attracts teh women


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ski_vt* 
bla bla bla
and it also attracts teh women










do it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Dustinthewind

God i cant wait to join this club







. I just gotta get my cpu underwater. Then comes graphics cards, and then mobo


----------



## mav2000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
Link to that temp gauge and is it water proof? Thanks.

They dont seem to have the same one anymore, but heres a link to what they do have...and no I dont think its water proof:

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/inde...e804e4ecb0a07c


----------



## ghettosuperstar

Let me in Coach.
This is my CM690 build.
I built a Heat Exchange Unit that's made out of wood.
It contains two bonneville heater cores, a pump, reservoir, and block on the inside. This is probably version 4 of my setup. I started out with one heatercore about 2-3 years ago.


----------



## fshizl

i like your rad box, nice job man!


----------



## ghettosuperstar

Thanks, and I finally analyzed the temps.
Ambient is 78F
Idle is 29-31C or 84-88F
Load is 34-38C or 93-100F
And this is with distilled water only with silver.
That's a nice delta on ambient in my opinion.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mav2000* 
They dont seem to have the same one anymore, but heres a link to what they do have...and no I dont think its water proof:

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/inde...e804e4ecb0a07c

found it, thanks


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 










Love it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Just for you buddy







.










hahahaha urule!
Excellent pimped out case!
I think you should leave the ball and leopard skin as the are









Oh, and do get carried away and add a small strobe for the next photo-shooting


----------



## Sean W.

^ lol thats awesome!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoGuru* 
Love it









Thank's NoGuru!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *javaneze* 
hahahaha urule!
Excellent pimped out case!
I think you should leave the ball and leopard skin as the are









Oh, and do get carried away and add a small strobe for the next photo-shooting









Thank's! If you'd like to see the full treatment, please stop by the September BUM competition thread and have a look.
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...eeds-your.html

Feel free to vote if your so inclined, but don't feel obligated to vote for mine. Vote for whichever entry you like the most!


----------



## wermad

Final details to complete this build, for now







. New coolant (blood red) that actually looks red and replaced those black clicky clamps w/ metal ones. Sleeving and wire management got a touch up. Used a better camera this time, pics do look decent


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Final details to complete this build, for now







. New coolant (blood red) that actually looks red and replaced those black clicky clamps w/ metal ones. Sleeving and wire management got a touch up. Used a better camera this time, pics do look decent









What, did you put Kool-Aid in there??


----------



## frickfrock999

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
What, did you put Kool-Aid in there??









He ran out of Purple Drink.


----------



## wermad

Its sangria









its distilled w/ dye.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

edit:

hey wermad, can you go through your posts and see if there are any that are redundant or unnecessary posts? If you ad another post i will have to add more columns to the spreadsheet.


----------



## whood886

heres my loop just finished







im gonna add some red led to light up the res but besides that im done.

















































oh and should i be worried about this?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

edit:

hey wermad, can you go through your posts and see if there are any that are redundant or unnecessary posts? If you ad another post i will have to add more columns to the spreadsheet.


Np, you can remove updates (posts) 1-11, those are from my old build, I don't care for those any more







. Thanks


----------



## thx1138

Looking at the last few I have to say it, I really hate anti kink coil. I am anti anti kink coil

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania*


----------



## bundymania

white - the new black


















EVGA SLI LE X58
Heatkiller 3.0 LT Special Edition
Mips Boardset with white tops - not available in shops


----------



## newpc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
white - the new black









IMG

EVGA SLI LE X58
Heatkiller 3.0 LT Special Edition
Mips Boardset with white tops - not available in shops

whoa!, that looks sick!


----------



## bundymania

Thx !







Is there a good 6GB DDR3 Kit with white Heatspreaders available ?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Thx !







Is there a good 6GB DDR3 Kit with white Heatspreaders available ?

You could use dominators and get a white Mips ram cooler


----------



## bundymania

Ja, das ist exakt mein derzeitiger Plan, wenn ich keine finde







Mushkins gibt es nur als DDR2 mit weissen HS

Yeah thatÂ´s my plan atm, when not finding ram set with white hs


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Ja, das ist exakt mein derzeitiger Plan, wenn ich keine finde







Mushkins gibt es nur als DDR2 mit weissen HS

Yeah thatÂ´s my plan atm, when not finding ram set with white hs

I cant find any white HS for ddr3 here in Holland anyways, the mips block might be your best bet.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I am not so much a fan of the white parts as everyone else seems to be lately, but thos do look good.

updated


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Ja, das ist exakt mein derzeitiger Plan, wenn ich keine finde







Mushkins gibt es nur als DDR2 mit weissen HS

Yeah thatÂ´s my plan atm, when not finding ram set with white hs


Sorry I'm the only person who has a white MIPS block







Don't be stealing my ideas


----------



## bundymania

Haha, i have those white tops since ~ 1 year in my closet but not used yet














But thanks for some inspirations, i saw your thread for the first time now


----------



## Sean W.

my loop update!


----------



## ecaftermath

My room temp is 24C, and the temp of the water is 27C and Im getting mid 30s to high 30s for my idle temp and 71C max on load. I think that is a bit high?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
My room temp is 24C, and the temp of the water is 27C and Im getting mid 30s to high 30s for my idle temp and 71C max on load. I think that is a bit high?

That does seem pretty high... can you cut the voltage down and keep it stable? Also, having a mere 3*C delta is AWESOME, I like that you pulled that off.


----------



## Sean W.

start a thread about, more people will see it this thread is for pictures and disscussing those pictures


----------



## airplaneman

Re did my loop.


----------



## oliverw92

My only suggestion for you is to re-do the heatshrink on your cables - try and get them even and into the connector


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
My only suggestion for you is to re-do the heatshrink on your cables - try and get them even and into the connector









Yeah, those are all extensions that I got from the guy who I bought my PSU from, he sleeved it all. I'm going to order some MDPC X sleeving and re-do it when I get the chance.

Thanks for the comment!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 









PLEASE tell me what revision that liquid fusion res is and what lighting you used to get it to look that good!

I still have not gotten mine from Alex, and i keep getting scared that it will get here and be the wrong color red, but if it is the same as yours it will be perfect.


----------



## oliverw92

If I remember correctly he has the most recent revision - there has only been one version of the acetal inverse t-virus.

Told you it wouldn't get it to you in the time he said, kevin


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Told you it wouldn't get it to you in the time he said, kevin









haha, yea, it will be 4 weeks on Thursday since I ordered.

Alex says it is because of the white cold cathode though. he said the res has been done for over a week and he is just waiting on that. (which i think means he forgot to order it







)


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

PLEASE tell me what revision that liquid fusion res is and what lighting you used to get it to look that good!

I still have not gotten mine from Alex, and i keep getting scared that it will get here and be the wrong color red, but if it is the same as yours it will be perfect.

Thanks for the compliment







.

It is the most recent revision, and the colour is just UV red. I don't have the cathode in the res (it actually burnt out the first time I turned it on, I dunno), I just have 2 LED sticks, one at the top and one at the bottom of the case shining on all the hardware. I was going to order a replacement cathode, but I'm not sure it will look any better.. I love how it looks now







.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Thanks for the compliment







.

It is the most recent revision, and the colour is just UV red. I don't have the cathode in the res (it actually burnt out the first time I turned it on, I dunno), I just have 2 LED sticks, one at the top and one at the bottom of the case shining on all the hardware. I was going to order a replacement cathode, but I'm not sure it will look any better.. I love how it looks now







.

no problem, it looks great.

awesome, that is what I ordered too.

are the LED sticks you have white LEDs?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
no problem, it looks great.

awesome, that is what I ordered too.

are the LED sticks you have white LEDs?

Yeah, there are white LED sticks by Logisys, they have about 8-10 LED's in each stick. Just for clarification, they are not cathodes.

Something like these, although I can't remember how long mine are.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Yeah, there are white LED sticks by Logisys, they have about 8-10 LED's in each stick. Just for clarification, they are not cathodes.

Something like these, although I can't remember how long mine are.

yea, i knew what you meant.

I ordered a white cold cathode with mine, seeing yours lit like that gives me a good feeling about how it will look. ;-)


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yea, i knew what you meant.

I ordered a white cold cathode with mine, seeing yours lit like that gives me a good feeling about how it will look. ;-)

From the pictures I've seen of your rig, it will look awesome no matter what







.

I love most builds with a red/black theme, they look better than anything else IMO. White and blue is also up there.


----------



## SimpleTech

Going to add this to my backup rig. Waiting for my other set of quick disconnects to arrive in the mail.



















So far I'm loving the new temperatures with my EK GTX 470 block. My load temps are what my idle temps use to be (~47Â°C).


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Going to add this to my backup rig. Waiting for my other set of quick disconnects to arrive in the mail.










Do you attach that to your case, or does it sit freely?

Also, where's the compression fittings?







.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Do you attach that to your case, or does it sit freely?

Also, where's the compression fittings?







.

Na, it's going to attach to my test bench. Much easier to maintain.









I use to love compression fittings but now I am getting tired of them. My hands look like they have been to hell and back, so I'm sticking to barbs + worm clamps.

In total, it will be two quads + one dual cooling my i7 875k and GTX 470.


----------



## bundymania

HK 3.0 Full Chrome Version


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Na, it's going to attach to my test bench. Much easier to maintain.









I use to love compression fittings but now I am getting tired of them. My hands look like they have been to hell and back, so I'm sticking to barbs + worm clamps.

In total, it will be two quads + one dual cooling my i7 875k and GTX 470.









Right on







. My fingers look like over cooked hot-dogs regardless, so comp fittings for me







.

Looking forward to seeing some pics when you get it all done


----------



## jmcu

My 1st WC project.. CF800

I am going for quiet rig with semi-aggressive OC.
1/2" ID - 3/4" OD
Bitspower compression fittings..
SR1 480 and 240
swifttech MCP 655
XSPC Bay Reservoir 5.25
Swiftech Apogee XT CPU Waterblock
Black Freezer NB/SB
2 Black Freezer 470 SLI Block
Scythe Gentle Typhoon

1 - SR1 480 and 1 - SR1 240 added...









From initial test..
The rig is awesome quiet..,
The gpu blocks seem very restrictive, (temps low 70's) mild oc..725/1.25v (oops 1.025)
cpu runs 33c after 45 min prime 95...
Time to crank things up...


----------



## fastsite

hurray just redid my loop.




























sorry for the quality i took the pics with my video camera


----------



## Rona

I guess you can add me to the list too


----------



## fastsite

thats shweet! i love green. there are junk ton of pictures on this page hah


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jmcu*


From initial test.. 
The rig is awsome quiet..,
The gpu blocks seem very restrictive, (temps low 70's) mild oc..725/1.25v
cpu runs 33c after 45 min prime 95...
Time to crank things up...


Thats pretty high temp on those fermis. I usually idle at 30c (stock), 35c (oc to 800-850) and loads 40c (stock) to 50-55c (oc to 800-850). Nice setup though







. I like the carbon-fiber applique, subtle enough that it doesn't scream "look at", in other words, tasteful


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

also, i love black & green


----------



## Rona

:d


----------



## JE Nightmare

you clean your loop often rona?


----------



## Muntey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jmcu* 
My 1st WC project.. CF800









Did you paint that pattern on, or is it something you stuck on?


----------



## Jelah

im creeping teh build log, I think my next build is gonna be a modded 800d


----------



## ageNtreachery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghettosuperstar* 
Let me in Coach.
This is my CM690 build.
I built a Heat Exchange Unit that's made out of wood.
It contains two bonneville heater cores, a pump, reservoir, and block on the inside. This is probably version 4 of my setup. I started out with one heatercore about 2-3 years ago.











I notice you have your pump installed in an orientation that is shown as "not permitted" in the Laing manual. I've no idea if it can damage your pump or is just not a good idea for performance reasons but you might want to check it out.

This is not the exact manual that came with my pump but the orientation pictures are the same.
http://www.laing.de/file/101


----------



## jmcu

It is carbon fiber vinyl


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
you clean your loop often rona?

I plan to maintain it often.


----------



## whood886

is this a leak? should i be worried? i've been watching it for a couple days and nothings coming out or anything.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

yes, that is a slow leak.

that type of leak typically will never let out enough water to damage anything, but it will cause your water level to drop faster than it should.

you should empty your loop and put some teflon tape on those threads


----------



## t-ramp

What am I looking at? Is there water in the threads?

EDIT: Is there an O-ring between the pump and reservoir? Like Kevin said, keep an eye on the water level, and if it drops gradually, put some thread seal tape on it.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sean W.* 
my loop update!

I remember you were having some trouble with your loop. Glad to see it all back together.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yes, that is a slow leak.

that type of leak typically will never let out enough water to damage anything, but it will cause your water level to drop faster than it should.

you should empty your loop and put some teflon tape on those threads

+1 for teflon tape. I put it on every threaded part of my loop, can't be too paranoid


----------



## whood886

yeah there's an o ring in there so i guess im gonna watch it and if it drops a bit then I'll tape it up. does any one know if they make black Teflon tape? I've got white but i don't think it'd look good.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whood886* 
yeah there's an o ring in there so i guess im gonna watch it and if it drops a bit then I'll tape it up. does any one know if they make black Teflon tape? I've got white but i don't think it'd look good.

http://www.punisherspb.com/ProductIn...LON-TAPE-BLACK

I've never seen anything at my local hardware outlets besides pink and white teflon tape. Might have to purchase online.


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
http://www.punisherspb.com/ProductIn...LON-TAPE-BLACK

I've never seen anything at my local hardware outlets besides pink and white teflon tape. Might have to purchase online.

+1 to def keep that "ninja" look.
LOL I would def order this than using white teflon tape


----------



## fshizl

well guys im in MOTM again!!

COME VOTE!!! FOR YOU KNOW WHO


















http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...te-suckas.html


----------



## niplfsh

Hey guys, veteran OCer, noob to OCN









I need to dust









































It doesn't really look that good with the cathodes on... they are woefully inadequate. It's not enough to shine through the smoked acrylic. I'm just going to build an LED array with some high-intensity 350nm LEDs when I get around to it.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *niplfsh* 
Hey guys, veteran OCer, noob to OCN









Welcome to OCN, and the club


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
well guys im in MOTM again!!

COME VOTE!!! FOR YOU KNOW WHO









http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...te-suckas.html

Oh god, you have some seriously stiff competition. I can't vote because i can't decide between yours and the bench Syrillian built.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
Oh god, you have some seriously stiff competition. I can't vote because i can't decide between yours and the bench Syrillian built.

its not hard...









just think, would you rather have a case...

or mine, a case with components ever so neatly placed and perfectly mounted... lol

i admit syrillian's bench is beautiful... but its got no components on it... so how is it gonna look when everything is in?










another picture


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tzillian

hey fshizl, is that the bitspower top and dress kit on the d5?


----------



## Midnite8

That setup is ****ing tits fshizl, orange is my favorite color


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
its not hard...









just think, would you rather have a case...

or mine, a case with components ever so neatly placed and perfectly mounted... lol

i admit syrillian's bench is beautiful... but its got no components on it... so how is it gonna look when everything is in?


When i see his bench, i see potential. I can't pick lol, you two will just have to duke it out.


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
its not hard...









just think, would you rather have a case...

or mine, a case with components ever so neatly placed and perfectly mounted... lol

i admit syrillian's bench is beautiful... but its got no components on it... so how is it gonna look when everything is in?










another picture


































I do have to say... I would have never picked those colors but it looks damn good and am very surprised with the color choices


----------



## Mr. Scary

@whood, fend, & wer; !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

friggin' insane in da brain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

<<<<drooooollll>>>>>

i only wish,,,,,,,,.............

M$


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr. Scary* 
@whood, fend, & wer; !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

friggin' insane in da brain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

<<<<drooooollll>>>>>

i only wish,,,,,,,,.............

M$


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 









this...


----------



## Lerkah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 

Quote:

@whood, fend, & wer; !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

friggin' insane in da brain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

<<<<drooooollll>>>>>

i only wish,,,,,,,,.............

M$










Here let me help...

Dear Whood, Fend and Wer, Simply astonishing work lads!

Your modding skills leave my head in a spin!

I could only wish to own one of these amazing machines, let alone posses one quarter of the skill you guys do!

Signed Mr Scary.


----------



## xmisery

Haha, you are insane in the brain! But I agree with you also, very beautifully done rigs!


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*




















.....Outstanding & Awesome setup there fshizl







; gotta admit, i dig the ol' m&m_guy > > > he's lookin like 
" Where's the Rain??? " OR like, he's a mascot/spoke'sman for Micro$oft = "TADA" . . .{LOLolol} . . .

mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## hardly

lol my ghetto loop!

The loop itself isn't that ghetto, just my lack of a case is ghetto lol.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr. Scary*


@whood, fend, & wer; !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

friggin' insane in da brain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

<<<<drooooollll>>>>>

i only wish,,,,,,,,.............

M$



Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


.....Outstanding & Awesome setup there fshizl







; gotta admit, i dig the ol' m&m_guy > > > he's lookin like 
" Where's the Rain??? " OR like, he's a mascot/spoke'sman for Micro$oft = "TADA" . . .{LOLolol} . . .

mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*

































Seriously, I started to get a nose bleed just readin' through this page


----------



## frozenicex

Update with new MIPS Ram Cooler..


----------



## loop0001

looks great!


----------



## dennis_g

very nice!


----------



## Chicken Patty

WOW, that is just an amazing build


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *frozenicex*


Update with new MIPS Ram Cooler..




















Hellooo ladies.How are you? Fantastic. Does your rig look like this? No. Can it look like this? Yes. Do you use Bitspower fittings? I don't know. Do you like the look of adventure? Do you want a rig that looks like it can calculate infinite variations of Pi, using a program it invented itself because it has achieved self awareness? Of course you do. Sooo ladies, is your man, a Bitspower man?

Looks' good frozenicex


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tzillian

where is the tubing to the radiator. im sure there is one but where did you manage to hide it?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tzillian*











where is the tubing to the radiator. im sure there is one but where did you manage to hide it?


See where the pump is on the right hand side? I'd be willing to bet that there is a tube from the rad to res. The tube from the RAM block looks like it probably goes to the rad too


----------



## Chicken Patty

You can see it going to the rad in this pic


----------



## mdatmo

My (first) loop:
MCR220, MCP350, Aqua Computer Auqagrafx 470, XSPC bars, 3/8 ID pvc tubing.





Uploaded with ImageShack.us

58 C Full Load on my 470 with @ 1.1 V (800 Core, 1920 Mem) with S-Flex 1200 rpm in Push Pull! I couldn't be happier.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## PcKiller

I am running a Asetek 570 LX witha 240Mm Rad. does that count?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

That braided tubing looks awful. Spend 120$ on a water block and go cheap on tubing







plus a PC will never see enough pressure to need reinforced tubing. I dont get why some people go with that braided tubing.

Durelene tubing 45 cents
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
That braided tubing looks awful. Spend 120$ on a water block and go cheap on tubing







plus a PC will never see enough pressure to need reinforced tubing. I dont get why some people go with that braided tubing.

Durelene tubing 45 cents
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html

Maybe he's more of a form over function guy?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PcKiller* 
I am running a Asetek 570 LX witha 240Mm Rad. does that count?

certainly does ;-)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
That braided tubing looks awful.

bit harsh eh? 

I agree that it is not necessary, but some people like the look.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
plus a PC will never see enough pressure to need reinforced tubing. I dont get why some people go with that braided tubing.

I know of one.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
I know of one.









Unless you leave the reservoir or T line cap on tight while bleeding, you really wont build any pressure in the loop.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Hellooo ladies.How are you? Fantastic. Does your rig look like this? No. Can it look like this? Yes. Do you use Bitspower fittings? I don't know. Do you like the look of adventure? Do you want a rig that looks like it can calculate infinite variations of Pi, using a program it invented itself because it has achieved self awareness? Of course you do. Sooo ladies, is your man, a Bitspower man?

Looks' good frozenicex









Lol, indeed it does look that awesome.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PcKiller* 
I am running a Asetek 570 LX witha 240Mm Rad. does that count?

Yes it does count. Kevingreenbmx has stated so in the first post. I believe pictures are a requirement though. So let's see some pics









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
Lol, indeed it does look that awesome.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
That braided tubing looks awful. Spend 120$ on a water block and go cheap on tubing







plus a PC will never see enough pressure to need reinforced tubing. I dont get why some people go with that braided tubing.

Durelene tubing 45 cents
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html

I'm using braided tubing myself only because i didn't want to wait a week for shipping, it cost the same if not more. Its not like the look of the loop affects the performance, and isn't that the main factor? Like tubing would be the last priority in my loop, blocks matter, rads matter, pumps matter, but tubing doesn't really.


----------



## ghettosuperstar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ageNtreachery*


I notice you have your pump installed in an orientation that is shown as "not permitted" in the Laing manual. I've no idea if it can damage your pump or is just not a good idea for performance reasons but you might want to check it out.

This is not the exact manual that came with my pump but the orientation pictures are the same.
http://www.laing.de/file/101


Thanks, I never knew this. So I made some changes and will post pics tonight. I ended up just flipping the heat exchange unit so that the pump and reservoir are on the bottom. I also moved the inlet for the reservoir to the top of the reservoir. It makes it very easier to bleed the system of air. Now I have one problem: Without the swooshing sound, I can't even tell if it's flowing. The way I check now is feel the pump for vibration. Now my load temp stays 38C with ambient at 26C. Idle is 29C.

Thanks again. +1rep


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mdatmo*


My (first) loop:
MCR220, MCP350, Aqua Computer Auqagrafx 470, XSPC bars, 3/8 ID pvc tubing.




I think the tubing looks nice because its unique. Hell, someone suggested I switch all the primo tubing in my rig and replace it w/ copper pipe. If it takes care of the job and it don't leak, its cool in my book







+1 for being different


----------



## PcKiller

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


certainly does ;-)


Thanks, I am now a proud member of this club too.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PcKiller*


Thanks, I am now a proud member of this club too.































not until you post some pics and I add you to the list.


----------



## PcKiller

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


Yes it does count. Kevingreenbmx has stated so in the first post. I believe pictures are a requirement though. So let's see some pics



















I will do what I can for pics, but it may take alittle bit to post them. Need to get digital camera.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


Originally Posted by *frozenicex* 
Update with new MIPS Ram Cooler..


IÂ´m wondering which Res. or Pump that is in the drive bay ?!


----------



## t-ramp

http://www.xspc.biz/d5tankres.php


----------



## bundymania

Ah ! Thanks mate !


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Ah ! Thanks mate !









No problem. I changed the link to the official XSPC page, so I'm not sure which site you saw.


----------



## mdatmo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
That braided tubing looks awful. Spend 120$ on a water block and go cheap on tubing







plus a PC will never see enough pressure to need reinforced tubing. I dont get why some people go with that braided tubing.

Durelene tubing 45 cents
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html

What can I say, I wanted something different. I just wish I could find braided tubing with a color besides white. Funny how harsh people can be, I mean its not like looks are a personal preference or anything. BTW, the block was 110$.


----------



## frozenicex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
IÂ´m wondering which Res. or Pump that is in the drive bay ?!

Res: XSPC D5 Top
Pump: Swiftech MCP655


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mdatmo*


What can I say, I wanted something different. I just wish I could find braided tubing with a color besides white. Funny how harsh people can be, I mean its not like looks are a personal preference or anything. BTW, the block was 110$.


Meh he just likes to voice his opinions regardless of how they may come across. It's your rig so it doesn't really matter what we think. As long as you're happy with what you've got then that's great


----------



## oliverw92

Just ignore him, he's rude.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys, I have a question...

I have several swiftech rads and an EK rad. I know the thread size for the swiftech rads is 6-32, but what size thread is the EK rad?

I looked it up on frozencpu and they say it is M3, but I ordered some black oxides m3 and 6-32 screws and they didn't fit. M3 seem to be right size, but the wrong thread pitch. the 6-32 ones are too big.

thanks!


----------



## t-ramp

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.php?page=radiators

M3 I guess. I don't know why the screws you have aren't fitting right. Maybe there's some paint in the holes that makes the fit a little bit off.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trampton*


http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.php?page=radiators

M3 I guess. I don't know why the screws you have aren't fitting right. Maybe there's some paint in the holes that makes the fit a little bit off.


thanks!

I guess I ordered interference fit screws without realizing it...

they do go in, just with a bit more force than i expected.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL




----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*












I see your







, and raise you
















Glad to see it's on the way Kev


----------



## tzillian

nice, mines been a few weeks too. how long did it take for yours? he said mine wouldnt take that long because there wasnt too much custimization for it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*















































































































































































































































Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


I see your







, and raise you
















Glad to see it's on the way Kev










Me too! 

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tzillian*


nice, mines been a few weeks too. how long did it take for yours? he said mine wouldnt take that long because there wasnt too much custimization for it.


I made the order on August 26th, so it has been one month and one day.









but I got mine with a custom top cap with an extra port, custom black clips, and a white CCFL that he does not keep on hand and had to order and mod to fit.


----------



## Baron von Ottobat

Should look nice, can't wait for pics!


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Yeah i vote to remove all of bundy's links except for one.

You must be a very jealous person, little Oliver


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *frozenicex* 
Update with new MIPS Ram Cooler..





































mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...............


----------



## mrtomek

First go at WC, I feel like abit of a noob now looking at everyone else's systems :\\


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Cyanix

Lots of elbows Oo.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrtomek*


First go at WC, I feel like abit of a noob now looking at everyone else's systems :\\


For a cpu only loop, why 2 120's?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrtomek* 
First go at WC, I feel like abit of a noob now looking at everyone else's systems :\\

Everyone starts somewhere. Looks pretty good to me for a first go at it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
For a cpu only loop, why 2 120's?

probably because they fit easily and that is just enough to cool an I7


----------



## JCG

First time water cooler here!

EK SupremeHF Full Copper, EK CrosshairIV block
Swiftech MCP355 revision 3.25
XSPC RX360, 3x Xigmatek XLF-1254
XSPC single 5.25" bay res


----------



## JCG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrtomek* 
First go at WC, I feel like abit of a noob now looking at everyone else's systems :\\

Same here!


----------



## wermad

Good to see all these CHIV Formulas wc, especially with the board block


----------



## AdvanSuper

Would it be worth it to add two more UK's to my rad for push/pull? CPU only loop with a Hardware Labs Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
For a cpu only loop, why 2 120's?

yeah. seems to be a waist of space.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
You must be a very jealous person, little Oliver









I'd probably vote to remove all links but the ones that have actual systems in them. I had to go through every single one of your links when we changed format and remove all that weren't systems, since they don't fit the criteria of the group (posting systems as opposed to gear). You do have LOTS of posts bundy


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rona* 
I guess you can add me to the list too



















I used those exact same fans and I love the green. The green sleeving makes me rethink my sleeving work and might inspire my next system build. Nicely done


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Mr. Scary

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lerkah* 
Here let me help...

Dear Whood, Fend and Wer, Simply astonishing work lads!

Your modding skills leave my head in a spin!

I could only wish to own one of these amazing machines, let alone posses one quarter of the skill you guys do!

Signed Mr Scary.


Hey Lerkah,

I think they got the message. Not the words i would've used or did though. Feel free to sign your own name but not mine. thanks anyways for the help.

again, to the three mentioned in op, wermad-post #4285, whood886-post #4290, & fshizl #4347,,,,absolutely amazing work and attention to detail. truly inspirational! Thanks for sharing. btw, add rona post#4324 to the list, luv the green theme!!!

M$


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HAFenvy* 
I used those exact same fans and I love the green. The green sleeving makes me rethink my sleeving work and might inspire my next system build. Nicely done









Thanks! I still sit here and stare @ it at night sometimes, haha... I flushed the Feser out though and went back to Distilled. I think it would have been just fine had I maintained it but my stupid paranoia got the best of me.


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JCG* 
Same here!









I felt the same way guys, and honestly still do in comparison to some of these guys here.

You're hooked now so you will likely be constantly figuring out what you want to do in order to add/improve.

Looks good IMO


----------



## mrtomek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
For a cpu only loop, why 2 120's?

1. Because I could, ha
2. I was ment to use the northbridge block but once I mounted the rad one of the fittings sat right ontop of the motherboards stock fittings, I was like fuuuu

and before anyone says anything I was using 3/8 id tubing so that would fit the stock northbridge cooler I managed to stretch that over the 1/2 barbs


----------



## wermad

turn that vertical rad to the back of the case if possible.

btw, is your mb revision 1 or 2? EK has a block for the first, and looks like they are working on a version for rev. 2


----------



## Lerkah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr. Scary* 
Hey Lerkah,

I think they got the message. Not the words i would've used or did though. Feel free to sign your own name but not mine. thanks anyways for the help.

again, to the three mentioned in op, wermad-post #4285, whood886-post #4290, & fshizl #4347,,,,absolutely amazing work and attention to detail. truly inspirational! Thanks for sharing. btw, add rona post#4324 to the list, luv the green theme!!!

M$

Hey you can speak legibly! Try doing so next time!


----------



## blu3phoenix

Hey can I join, I just put my first loop together. Its not as cool as your guys though!


















:]


----------



## mrtomek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
turn that vertical rad to the back of the case if possible.

btw, is your mb revision 1 or 2? EK has a block for the first, and looks like they are working on a version for rev. 2









Rev 1, I was realy tempted to get it too. Just as I was ordering the gear from ek for this build they just got new plexi stock made up, was abit worried about my bank balance so I held back.









I know what you mean about the rad but I like the idea of everything being inside the case


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrtomek* 
1. Because I could, ha
2. I was ment to use the northbridge block but once I mounted the rad one of the fittings sat right ontop of the motherboards stock fittings, I was like fuuuu

and before anyone says anything I was using 3/8 id tubing so that would fit the stock northbridge cooler I managed to stretch that over the 1/2 barbs

That's what angled fittings are for.


----------



## mrtomek

This is true. *looks off into the sunset*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrtomek* 
Rev 1, I was realy tempted to get it too. Just as I was ordering the gear from ek for this build they just got new plexi stock made up, was abit worried about my bank balance so I held back.









I know what you mean about the rad but I like the idea of everything being inside the case

Front mount that sucker







. If i was able to squeeze in two 360 rads inside a HAF 932, you should have no issues adding one of those 120 to the front. Time to bust out your tools and start modding your case


----------



## mrtomek

I keep looking at it and seeing a bunch of better ways I could have run the tubes, I don't like my res much either maybe in a month or so it'll be time to get it to a level where I don't second guess how I should have routed all the pipes. Probably new res 2angled barbs for the rads and another angled one for the pump (fairly squished behind the hdd cage)


----------



## wermad

rethinking your setup is part of wc. Im so guilty of redoing my setup a few times


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
rethinking your setup is part of wc. Im so guilty of redoing my setup a few times









No doubt right? I've redesigned my loop six times in the past five months, and I'm gettin' the itch for some more fittings very soon


----------



## mrtomek

Ha, never underestimate the crampedness of the p183. I have been considering dremeling out the steel top panel then letting the Uni cnc mill or lazer loose on the PE roof panel. Make it look like the case was designed that way. should be able to fit a nice 240 in there, this is provided I can find time between projects.







that won't be for some time


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
No doubt right? I've redesigned my loop six times in the past five months, and I'm gettin' the itch for some more fittings very soon









Lol my current rig is the 4th I've built since May, and I built it on a bit of a budget, so as soon as I've got enough money I'm going to redesign my loop, and entire rig







Going to have a bit more money so i can afford some GPU/ mobo blocks







Its addicting lol


----------



## wermad

LOL, no doubting some of us get giddy when talking water cooling









I'm planning upgrading to new rads and switching to compression fittings. Im so tempted to switch to white tubing and switch to all blue led fans


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
LOL, no doubting some of us get giddy when talking water cooling









I'm planning upgrading to new rads and switching to compression fittings. Im so tempted to switch to white tubing and switch to all blue led fans









hahahah, im doing the same thing, compression fittings, and im thinking some black tubing, all in a modded 800d with a 480 rad in the top and my 240 in the bottom








Im getting giddy just thinking about it


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
hahahah, im doing the same thing, compression fittings, and im thinking some black tubing, all in a modded 800d with a 480 rad in the top and my 240 in the bottom







Im getting giddy just thinking about it









You got a pic of that?


----------



## R00ST3R

IMO comp fittings are the bee's knee's. I think they're much easier to work with


----------



## mrtomek

After cutting myself so many times trying to get 3/8 tubing onto 1/2 barbs I would have to agree with you.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
IMO comp fittings are the bee's knee's. I think they're much easier to work with









and they look supa sexy, especially bits, but I dont think the aesthetics will improve performance over another less expensive one. Just the looks I guess...

Anyways, plans include:

3x XSPC RX 360 rads
20x Feser compression fittings
EK sli block

for now...


----------



## Chicken Patty

For now?







XSPC Rads are awesome. I have a 240 version and I love it.


----------



## jakeface1




----------



## Chicken Patty

^^^^^^^ Stunning colors Jake, beautifully done.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrtomek* 
After cutting myself so many times trying to get 3/8 tubing onto 1/2 barbs I would have to agree with you.

dip the tips in hot water to soften them up, try 7/16 on 1/2" barb a little bit less challenging.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
For now?







XSPC Rads are awesome. I have a 240 version and I love it.

I currently have three of the RS360, I want to go bigger, ha my case in its current spec can do 4x 360 rads, MM has a few options for the panels where you could add more but that would just be plain silly


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
dip the tips in hot water to soften them up, try 7/16 on 1/2" barb a little bit less challenging.

I currently have three of the RS360, I want to go bigger, ha my case in its current spec can do 4x 360 rads, MM has a few options for the panels where you could add more but that would just be plain silly









I have used 7/16th on 1/2" barbs before, works great and no need for clamps.

As far as the rads, yeah MM has crazy crazy options, you can put up to like 67 rads in most of their cases


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
and they look supa sexy, especially bits, but I dont think the aesthetics will improve performance over another less expensive one. Just the looks I guess...

Anyways, plans include:

3x XSPC RX 360 rads
20x Feser compression fittings
EK sli block

for now...









Nice









Quote:


Originally Posted by *jakeface1* 









Like the orange and blue effect









Nice MB to boot


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Would it be worth it to add two more UK's to my rad for push/pull? CPU only loop with a Hardware Labs Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Would it be worth it to add two more UK's to my rad for push/pull? CPU only loop with a Hardware Labs Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator.

Be nice to have a controller, but I bet they remove a good amount of heat at full bore.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
You got a pic of that?









Not yet, haven't started even buying the parts yet, should have a nice big update for the club soon though


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Be nice to have a controller, but I bet they remove a good amount of heat at full bore.

I could care less about the controller, just wanting to know what actual gains would be for $20 in extra fans.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I could care less about the controller, just wanting to know what actual gains would be for $20 in extra fans.

Ooo, I really don't know


----------



## speedhunter

Quote:


Originally Posted by *frozenicex* 
Update with new MIPS Ram Cooler..





































so nice!! the only thing I like about HAF Black over HAF X is the side window. Mind posting picture with the side panel on? Thank you


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
You must be a very jealous person, little Oliver









Er, do you have any idea how old that post is...? And why would I be jealous?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RatDog




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SimpleTech

Used my sister's camera for the first photo and the rest with mine. Mine can't do squat in low light, even with the flash enabled.


----------



## wermad

Just pulled the trigger on some compression fittings!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 









Just pulled the trigger on some compression fittings!









Excellent!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

wermad - dang, that must be like 40 fittings in that massive thing you have. How much did they cost?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

wermad - dang, that must be like 40 fittings in that massive thing you have. *How much did they cost?*

Shhhh...we don't mention such things...at least to our GF's, or wives







(In consideration for spiderM0nkey, I must to add BF's, and husbands







)


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Shhhh...we don't mention such things...at least to our GF's, or wives









WORD!!! When my box of fittings showed up my wife said "What's that honey?" I said, I don't know, something work sent me, probably junk. Don't worry about it


----------



## wermad

24 to be exact







, Im still needing some extra angled connectors for some of the tricky parts.

And yes, the wifey does not know, I can use the excuse its for the aquarium Im almost done with. hmmmm...I should oc my aquarium...I have spare pool pump....hmmmmm.....


----------



## blu3phoenix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
24 to be exact







, Im still needing some extra angled connectors for some of the tricky parts.

And yes, the wifey does not know, I can use the excuse its for the aquarium Im almost done with. hmmmm...I should oc my aquarium...I have spare pool pump....hmmmmm.....









What kind of fish are you running and at what speeds?


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blu3phoenix* 
What kind of fish are you running and at what speeds?









LMAO hahahahah


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Hey, I AM a girlfriend/ soon to be wife and I think my man would be the one going ape if I went out and bought heaps of comp fittings


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Hey, I AM a girlfriend/ soon to be wife and I think my man would be the one going ape if I went out and bought heaps of comp fittings









Post edited


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Hey, I AM a girlfriend/ soon to be wife and I think my man would be the one going ape if I went out and bought heaps of comp fittings









Well don't explain to my wife what a compression fitting is and how freaking much dual and triple rotaries cost. She still thinks I got my whole WC setup as part of my $200.00 case (thank god for credit cards in my name only).

Yes dear, all that tubing and stuff came with the case. "oh you and your toys" She hates computers and knows nothing about them.. whew


----------



## hollywood406

Here are some pics of my new watercooling setup. I converted over from an H50....to a modded H50.....to this full custom watercooling setup. I did add an extra mod with the side panel fans. My Son and I saw a picture of that mod and decided to try it out on ours, especially since we went Crossfire and SLI with our GPU's. What a difference that made with the idle and load temps. Anyway.....Enjoy!!
















This set is just the internals. I'll shoot a few more with the side panel on. What you're seeing is an Enzotech Stealth block, Danger Den CPX-PRO pump, Swiftech MCR-320 rad and MicroRes. The tubing is courtesy of the local Home Depot hardware store and the bad-a~~ compression fittings are from Enzotech


----------



## hollywood406

Here are the shots with the side panel installed. Just a piece of .090 acrylic from Home Depot and a bit of cutting with a cheapo hole saw from Harbor Freight. The fans are Xigmatek XLF led and the fan guards are Silverstone. I liked the Xigmatek fans so much that I switched all the fans to this model and bought a Scythe Kaze Master Pro fan controller to control at least 6 of them.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Post edited









Ahaha cheers


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

Stop this MAdness!!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ski_vt* 
stop this madness!!!!


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hollywood406* 
Here are some pics of my new watercooling setup. I converted over from an H50....to a modded H50.....to this full custom watercooling setup. I did add an extra mod with the side panel fans. My Son and I saw a picture of that mod and decided to try it out on ours, especially since we went Crossfire and SLI with our GPU's. What a difference that made with the idle and load temps. Anyway.....Enjoy!!
















This set is just the internals. I'll shoot a few more with the side panel on. What you're seeing is an Enzotech Stealth block, Danger Den CPX-PRO pump, Swiftech MCR-320 rad and MicroRes. The tubing is courtesy of the local Home Depot hardware store and the bad-a~~ compression fittings are from Enzotech

Looks really good, just need a 90Âº fitting for that pump


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Looks really good, just need a 90Âº fitting for that pump









*cough*dual rotary 90 degree fitting*cough*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blu3phoenix* 
What kind of fish are you running and at what speeds?









a variety of gold fish, my little 1 y/o picked them, right now they are at stock ~1.0ghz, I plan to push them to 4.0-5.0ghz once I fit the pool pump to the tank


----------



## rzs77

Here's my 75% complete TJ07. Still a work in progress. Waiting for some sleeves and a couple of other stuff so please excuse the cable management


----------



## _REAPER_




----------



## JE Nightmare




----------



## Jelah

Reaper, looks great, any lighting in the case though?


----------



## _REAPER_

I dont really have alot of lighting in the case for me I like to keep it simple. The only lighting I have is coming from the fans on the rads and the front fan on the bottom. When it is dark it is enough for me.


----------



## jprovido

I dunno if h50 is considered water cooling but heck, I'll post my rig anyway



























@reaper
kumusta kababayan







jprovido from tpc represent


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Jelah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*


I dont really have alot of lighting in the case for me I like to keep it simple. The only lighting I have is coming from the fans on the rads and the front fan on the bottom. When it is dark it is enough for me.



















I read some people say the X is ugly, i personally think its sexy.. am i crazy? Lol, if i werent going with the 800D for my next case, I think i would be tempted to get rid of this 932 and pay the extra cash just for the looks of the X


----------



## RatDog

Personally I don't like the X, it looks way to plastic for me (I have 700d). I know it is a great case functionally, but not my taste. There you have it, one mans ugly is another mans beauty. That is why these companies make 30 versions of cases.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RatDog*


Personally I don't like the X, it looks way to plastic for me (I have 700d). I know it is a great case functionally, but not my taste. There you have it, one mans ugly is another mans beauty. That is why these companies make 30 versions of cases.


Very true, i never really looked at the 700D, i kinda like it better than the 800D, i wouldn't take advantage of the hot swapping myself, and i don't like the look of the window on the 800D anyway. Glad you mentioned that case, i think i might go with it to save a few $$


----------



## HugosWaterCooler

If a h50 makes it on here, then I'll feel safe posting my lame entry level attempt


----------



## mastical

Looks good Hugo.


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Looks really good, just need a 90Âº fitting for that pump









Thanks! I do have a few more compression fittings to install. I want to put a drain on the lower, inlet, tube. It'll be a "Y" fitting so it splits off with one side feeding the pump and the other laying off to the side for a drain. I'll have a compression fitting on the pump and another on the MicroRes. I think the side panel will hide the "Y" fitting as that will be plastic and zip-ties to connect (Ugh! haha)

I didn't have the right fittings and I didn't want to wait to get them to install the WC system. I figure at the next maintenance, I'll install the new fittings and the drain to make it easier in the future.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Very true, i never really looked at the 700D, i kinda like it better than the 800D, i wouldn't take advantage of the hot swapping myself, and i don't like the look of the window on the 800D anyway. Glad you mentioned that case, i think i might go with it to save a few $$









That was my thinking as well. If you already have a 800d and don't want the window, you can get a solid panel for $19.99 here

Also can make a custom window and if you screw up get a new panel FTW!


----------



## HugosWaterCooler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
Looks good Hugo.

appreciated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HugosWaterCooler* 









Interesting, the tube going from your gpu to the rad at the bottom seems slightly smaller, ???. Or just the fact its clear makes it look smaller? just curious


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Interesting, the tube going from your gpu to the rad at the bottom seems slightly smaller, ???. Or just the fact its clear makes it look smaller? just curious









That is for sure smaller..
I can just sense it with my spidey senses!!


----------



## HugosWaterCooler

I am caught out, yes it is 3/8 ID, considering the flow rate of the pump it didn't affect it much.

...But still a noob's mistake for not checking the barb specs before buying online


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HugosWaterCooler* 
I am caught out, yes it is 3/8 ID, considering the flow rate of the pump it didn't affect it much.

...But still a noob's mistake for not checking the barb specs before buying online









You should fix that..

It doesnt look good and it must be bad for the pressure in the loop (me thinks )


----------



## HugosWaterCooler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
You should fix that..

It doesnt look good and it must be bad for the pressure in the loop (me thinks )

Definitely replacing that, but I'll be doing that in my next revamp when I change the tubing from clear to blue, might even start a mini work log


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
You should fix that..

It doesnt look good and it must be bad for the pressure in the loop (me thinks )

Not likely. Pumps are pretty strong so I'd be willing to bet it doesn't have much of an effect.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HugosWaterCooler* 
Definitely replacing that, but I'll be doing that in my next revamp when I change the tubing from clear to blue, might even start a mini work log

blue will definitely give it some more looks







You shouldn't worry about the smaller tube atm if your going to take care of it later. I also just realized the placement of the bottom rad. That's also interesting


----------



## jprovido

me want custom watercooling


----------



## Leon777

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jprovido* 

















me want custom watercooling









Go get it then?


----------



## bundymania

Look at cute Aquagirl now


----------



## fshizl

Worms!!!! I mean cute girl!!!


----------



## wermad

, oh and the pc(s) are nice too. Is that a Mountain Mods Pinncle 24 on the last pic?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Haha, I bet she doesn't know squat about computers. Just paid to stand there and try to look pretty







I don't bat for my own team but girls that are attractive AND know about computers are way hotter than pretty girls who know nothing lol


----------



## Chicken Patty

bundy, is that you with the aqua girl? She's hot!


----------



## bundymania

The guy on the pic with aquagirl could be my son







The pics were taken at a LAN in England. Yeaaaah sheÂ´s hot !!!









http://www.facebook.com/photos.php?id=216841135649


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
The guy on the pic with aquagirl could be my son







The pics were taken at a LAN in England. Yeaaaah sheÂ´s hot !!!









http://www.facebook.com/photos.php?id=216841135649

Interesting, I must check that page out!


----------



## Tomiger

Single CPU Loop in a CM 690 II Advanced
XSPC Dual Bay/Res with built-in pump
XSPC Rasa Block
Swiftech MCR220 Radiator
2x 120mm low rpm Gentle Typhoons pulling air through the radiator
Primoflex Blue UV 1/2" tubing


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Zhany

May I join here are the pics of my setup
Sorry image quality isn't the best only have my cell phone camera atm


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jprovido* 
I dunno if h50 is considered water cooling but heck, I'll post my rig anyway









snip










@reaper
kumusta kababayan







jprovido from tpc represent









nice n clean setup  wondering that tube with the fan.. at the front. onto the gpu. drop temps?

( lil off topic but anyways )

and also wondering. ( 2 any 1 really ) would it be worth me jumping into wcing ( arfter get new ram. because myne sucks lol ) only be a 120mm rad for now. maby 2 later on. ( on sig rig ) its only a dual core though. max on air atm is about 42/43. with slient fans.. like 7db lol carnt hearem..

was thinking of putting just my 460 on water. with a full cover block. for xmas xD and get a cpu block later. only got a matx case atm >.< could probaly get a 2.120mm rad inside. if removed 3.5" bays. but wouldnt have much/any airflow >.< could put 2 x 1.120mm rads ( 1 at front and back ) with some nice cfm fans







(( 460 only need 1 x 120mm rad? not really oced.. yet ))


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


( lil off topic but anyways )

and also wondering. ( 2 any 1 really ) would it be worth me jumping into wcing ( arfter get new ram. because myne sucks lol ) only be a 120mm rad for now. maby 2 later on. ( on sig rig ) its only a dual core though. max on air atm is about 42/43. with slient fans.. like 7db lol carnt hearem..

was thinking of putting just my 460 on water. with a full cover block. for xmas xD and get a cpu block later. only got a matx case atm >.< could probaly get a 2.120mm rad inside. if removed 3.5" bays. but wouldnt have much/any airflow >.< could put 2 x 1.120mm rads ( 1 at front and back ) with some nice cfm fans







(( 460 only need 1 x 120mm rad? not really oced.. yet ))


If temperatures and/or fan noise is a problem, I would. Like you mentioned, a 120 rad in front and another one in the back would be great. You could even add your E7400 if you ever wanted to do so. There are some blocks that are multi-socket. If you are on a budget, you might consider the XSPC Rasa. Supports LGA 775, 1156, and 1366.

Tilatech as the EK FC460 GTX block for $91.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated (lil drunk though, so let me know if i fucled it yp...


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


If temperatures and/or fan noise is a problem, I would. Like you mentioned, a 120 rad in front and another one in the back would be great. You could even add your E7400 if you ever wanted to do so. There are some blocks that are multi-socket. If you are on a budget, you might consider the XSPC Rasa. Supports LGA 775, 1156, and 1366.

Tilatech as the EK FC460 GTX block for $91.


thanks 

would it be alright if i ran my 460 AND e7400 on ONE 120mm rad? or would need 2? just be for a bit till can get a second one.

or get 2 x 120mm rads and 460 block. then get the cpu block later? my cpu like i said is like 42/43 load. and quite.. just blower on the 460 quite loud 

fans.. probaly have a push/pull on both. probaly either 60 or 90cfm. on a fan controller... depends on temps @ load. can always turnem up 

probaly stupid question. but would a H50 + 460 block... ? (( modded with rez ))


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated (lil drunk though, so let me know if i fucled it yp...










Nope, looks good to me


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r00st3r* 
nope, looks good to me


----------



## Liighthead

not sure ill be our 2 get it. 
but for xmas. something like a 2.120mm rad ( modded into front of my cm elite 341 ) 
460 *full cover* + cpu block..

2 x 140 or 2 x 120?

with the 2.120mm one i can keep my top 5.25bay. which i kinder want to...
not sure where hard drive will go. probaly swich over to a 500gb 2.5" drive... or mount it on the bottom? or in the dvd drive spot xD and have a external dvd drive. <-- most likley.

not sure about pump/rez. rez probaly show.. somewhere.. pump.. mm at bottom most likley. just before rad. work it out when get it. got a few things todo before can jump into wcing D': someday









curnntly moving. and gonna upgrade ram 1st.. idk when will get wcing. most likley xmas. so every 1 probaly just "ehhh anyways" what ima sayin. but i wanna get into wcing..

anyways.. some nice rigs here


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zhany*












first wc CHIVE (







) I've seen, here's hoping ek makes a beautiful block for it







I here the nb still is a bit hot like the Formula.


----------



## sunjoo




----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated (lil drunk though, so let me know if i fucled it yp...









We are* doomed.

*were

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
thanks 

would it be alright if i ran my 460 AND e7400 on ONE 120mm rad? or would need 2? just be for a bit till can get a second one.

or get 2 x 120mm rads and 460 block. then get the cpu block later? my cpu like i said is like 42/43 load. and quite.. just blower on the 460 quite loud 

fans.. probaly have a push/pull on both. probaly either 60 or 90cfm. on a fan controller... depends on temps @ load. can always turnem up 

probaly stupid question. but would a H50 + 460 block... ? (( modded with rez ))

Sorry for the late reply. If you were using a Hardware Labs GTX 120 coupled with some high speed fans, you could run both your CPU and GPU off of that.

I wouldn't mod a H50 and use it in the same loop with the 460 block. The reason is because the pump is way too weak. Some people have reported that it can barely handle two 120 rads.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
not sure ill be our 2 get it.
but for xmas. something like a 2.120mm rad ( modded into front of my cm elite 341 )
460 *full cover* + cpu block..

2 x 140 or 2 x 120?

with the 2.120mm one i can keep my top 5.25bay. which i kinder want to...
not sure where hard drive will go. probaly swich over to a 500gb 2.5" drive... or mount it on the bottom? or in the dvd drive spot xD and have a external dvd drive. <-- most likley.

not sure about pump/rez. rez probaly show.. somewhere.. pump.. mm at bottom most likley. just before rad. work it out when get it. got a few things todo before can jump into wcing D': someday









While a 140 rad has more surface area, the one you selected will not perform very well. 140mm fans are not as mainstream as 120mm, so your selection is limited. The XSPC radiators are fairly thick and have a low FPI, making it great for medium-speed fans such as the Yate Loon D12SM-12 or Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850.

There is no rush though. While water cooling sounds scary or expensive, I find it extremely fun and a great hobby to boot.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## DevilGear44

Very, very soon...


----------



## Liighthead

carnt wait


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
:whee: carnt wait






























Ahhh! You again!


----------



## Liighthead

ahhh me *hides*


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DevilGear44* 
Very, very soon...



























<333333


----------



## DevilGear44

mITX test bench ftw!


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DevilGear44* 
mITX test bench ftw!

Its so Tiny I love it <3


----------



## JE Nightmare

never could get a taste for that bench.


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 







never could get a taste for that bench.

It's definitely an aquired taste.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DevilGear44* 
It's definitely an aquired taste.









that it is, i'm more of a banchetto guy.


----------



## pewpewlazer

Nice "case"


----------



## miahallen

mini-ITX rocks


----------



## mitchbowman

i want one


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I am off to the post office to pick up AWESOMENESS!!!

(there will be pics in my worklog of the unboxing)


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


I am off to the post office to pick up AWESOMENESS!!!

(there will be pics in my worklog of the unboxing)










it has been almost an hour, i'm still waiting.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


it has been almost an hour, i'm still waiting.










it is because he sent me the wrong [email protected]#$ing reservoir.

check out my build log.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


it is because he sent me the wrong [email protected]#$ing reservoir.

check out my build log.










alex really dropped the ball on that one.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*









alex really dropped the ball on that one.


Not just this time either, seen him mess up several times.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Added a drain to my system:

























And my Filling "tool" (extra barb, tubing, and funnel):


----------



## SimpleTech

^^ Feser UV Green I presume?

Nice clean cuts by the way.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*









alex really dropped the ball on that one.


yea...

he is resolving the issue though. the res I received is on it's way back to him overnight UPS (at his expense) and he is already working on getting mine ready to go. He assured me that it will be shipped out to me by the end of the week.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


^^ Feser UV Green I presume?

Nice clean cuts by the way.










Yep, the Acid Green version. Thanks, also.


----------



## hy897t

Just updated my loop. Let me know what you think.
Not done yet just leak testing


----------



## Trigunflame

Duct tape, nice


----------



## hy897t

haha yea I have to drill holes for the new res, but didn't get a chance to since it was after midnight


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
he is resolving the issue though. the res I received is on it's way back to him overnight UPS (at his expense) and he is already working on getting mine ready to go. He assured me that it will be shipped out to me by the end of the week.

I have to say that when he realises something isn't going to plan, he gets on it pretty quick. My first res got lost in the mail and he immediately shipped out a new one at his own expense which arrived 2 weeks later. Was pretty impressed with that and also a tad gutted that the first one didn't end up arriving too


----------



## Andreoid

*
Anfi-tec Asus Crosshair IV extreme lightcoverset*










.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Is that your design or do you have a question about it?


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS* 
Just updated my loop. Let me know what you think.
Not done yet just leak testing


I like the pink water


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Is that your design or do you have a question about it?

thats my design








just follow the link in my signature for the making of ^^


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Is that your design or do you have a question about it?

I am appalled at this question!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
I am appalled at this question!

haha, you never know in this thread...


----------



## ThaJoker

QQ.. im putting an order in for blocks and i was wondering should my theme have clear blocks and nickel backplates eg: Backplates, 480 blocks
or should i murder my rig out and have matte black everything such as : blocks, Backplates

hmmm placing an order is so hard cause once i buy it i cant resell it for as much if i get it wrong lol


----------



## SKI_VT




----------



## TheSchlaf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThaJoker* 
QQ.. im putting an order in for blocks and i was wondering should my theme have clear blocks and nickel backplates eg: Backplates, 480 blocks
or should i murder my rig out and have matte black everything such as : blocks, Backplates

hmmm placing an order is so hard cause once i buy it i cant resell it for as much if i get it wrong lol









I vote for nickel/acetal.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSchlaf* 
I vote for nickel/acetal.

I have the Nickel Acetal


----------



## ThaJoker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSchlaf* 
I vote for nickel/acetal.

yeah i had already sold myself on it thanks anyways. its gonna look sick!!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Green for the money and gold for the honey


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## rzs77

New sleevings


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
New sleevings


















Nice system!


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id* 
Nice system!

Thanks


----------



## fshizl

yeah man beautiful tj07


----------



## koven

does anyone here have a custom loop in an antec 900? is the case too small to do WC?


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
does anyone here have a custom loop in an antec 900? is the case too small to do WC?

I used to have a 900. It didn't even have room for wiring,I think it would be tough to add WC stuff.


----------



## tzillian

nice tj 07 indeed. hopefully the tj 11 comes out soon and looks as good as the 07 if not better.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
nice tj 07 indeed. hopefully the tj 11 comes out soon and looks as good as the 07 if not better.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
yeah man beautiful tj07

Thanks guys!

fshizl: your 800D is not bad either. gotta love the color combo


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Thanks guys!

fshizl: your 800D is not bad either. gotta love the color combo









Dont forget who got you into all this money wasting! Sorry about that.

Anyway, the money you have spent has been spent extremely well! TJ07's looking amazing, nice work.









Also, I think you shouldnt resize your images so much.

Heres a peek at the 700D:










Its not perfect yet, needs colour, lights, new Res, tubing, compression fittings and CPU WB, then I might be happy.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

I despise you for this.....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
I despise you for this.....


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Dont forget who got you into all this money wasting! Sorry about that.

Anyway, the money you have spent has been spent extremely well! TJ07's looking amazing, nice work.









Heres a peek at the 700D:










Its not perfect yet, needs colour, lights, new Res, tubing and CPU WB, then I might be happy.


There HE is! Guys, say hello to my mentor/advisor/'poisoner'








This guy made me pockets empty! SERIOUSLY! If u love your money, stay the hell away from him









Anyway, nice 700D! Looks amazing already! Light it up Will!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
does anyone here have a custom loop in an antec 900? is the case too small to do WC?

Define "in". My first wc rig was a 900 it was tight but it can be done


----------



## Chicken Patty

There's something about TJ07's. I just can't get over how awesome they are for water cooling!


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
There's something about TJ07's. I just can't get over how awesome they are for water cooling!









I second this.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
I second this.

The bottom compartment alone is awesome. I saw someone fit a quad rad and a triple or dual rad on the other side. Still able to put the PSU and wires and all the good stuff. Just amazing case. To me it's the case that never gets old.


----------



## R00ST3R

No update. Just a fun picture I choose to share with my fellow OCN Water Cooling Club member's







.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Nice kitteh. Is it me or he's pretty big?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Nice kitteh. Is it me or he's pretty big?

Thank's, and yes she is HUGE


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Thank's, and yes she is HUGE









Sorry, not sure why I automatically assumed it was a "HE".


----------



## rpgman1

Yes that is one big black cat. I have a stray black cat that keeps running away at the sight of humans. Keeps wandering around the neighborhood. Nice looking cases outside.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


There's something about TJ07's. I just can't get over how awesome they are for water cooling!











Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


I second this.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


The bottom compartment alone is awesome. I saw someone fit a quad rad and a triple or dual rad on the other side. Still able to put the PSU and wires and all the good stuff. Just amazing case. To me it's the case that never gets old.










I love the TJ07. At 1st I was contemplating between this or the Lian Li PC-V2010B but decided to go with the TJ07 and never looked back. It's just an awesome case. Just the right size and yeah, SUPERB watercooling capabilities


----------



## Murderous Moppet

Here's my updated entry. I can't remember if I ever entered months ago when I first setup my WC gear.

-Heatkiller 3.0 Cu
-Enzotech VGA-iS
-D5 with EK top
-MCR320
-MCR220
-Multioption 100
-Primoflex UV Green
-Bitspower True Silver Barbs


















I'm considering replacing the tube going from the pump to the rad with black tube.
Edited for img tag fail.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

that UV looks good. not overdone and not too bright.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Murderous Moppet* 
Here's my updated entry. I can't remember if I ever entered months ago when I first setup my WC gear.

-Heatkiller 3.0 Cu
-Enzotech VGA-iS
-D5 with EK top
-MCR320
-MCR220
-Multioption 100
-Primoflex UV Green
-Bitspower True Silver Barbs

I'm considering replacing the tube going from the pump to the rad with black tube.
Edited for img tag fail.

Yeah, the UV looks really good, a lot of the time some people go too far and it looks like a carnival inside their case, but yours looks very clean


----------



## wermad

these compression fittings are some tough sob to put on







. so far, these fittings are causing some tubing revisions. I'll get some pics as soon as I'm done. I'm still waiting for the gpu setup, gonna purchase those tomorrow


----------



## xxlawman87xx

I have a new clamp on the way to replace that crappy hose clamp


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

wermad, what is difficult about it? mine were mad easy to use.


----------



## wermad

my fingers hurt







. almost done, I got the feser 1/2x3/4 and its a pita tightening them w/out using pliers, which I want to avoid to prevent damage to them. Im sure the more pricey bits and enzo are far easier to install but a little effort and pain is a small sacrifice for the price I got them


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


these compression fittings are some tough sob to put on







. so far, these fittings are causing some tubing revisions. I'll get some pics as soon as I'm done. I'm still waiting for the gpu setup, gonna purchase those tomorrow










What kind are you using again?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated.

wermad, what is difficult about it? mine were mad easy to use.


"mad easy" is a very apt description, that's been my experience also


----------



## wermad

Feser 1/2x3/4 compression, sidewindercomputers.com has them on special 4pck for $10









Due to the compression fittings, a lot of tubing was redone and actually it looks much cleaner. Next upgrade will be an ek triple parallel sli block









edit: my fingers hurt a tad


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Feser 1/2x3/4 compression, sidewindercomputers.com has them on special 4pck for $10









Due to the compression fittings, a lot of tubing was redone and actually it looks much cleaner. Next upgrade will be an ek triple parallel sli block









edit: my fingers hurt a tad










Look's good bro









and just think of it this way...now you have callouses on them fingers your one step ahead on learning to play the guitar


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## t-ramp

Kevin, the embedded spreadsheet isn't working.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trampton* 
Kevin, the embedded spreadsheet isn't working.

how about now?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys, i have disassembled my loop to instal the GPU blocks and the new rads and when i pulled it apart I went to clean my CPU block and it was pretty gross:










evidently i had a tinny piece of tubing floating around in there:




























now this is why I am posting:










What is all that black stuff? It is all over the inside of the block and appears to be actaully forming on the copper. Is it some sort of corrosion? I am only using distilled water and PT Nuke and I am pretty sure none of the parts in my loop contain aluminum.

here are the parts that where in that loop just in case:

mcp355 with bitspower mini res top
swiftech mcr 320 rad
heatkiller 3.0 lt cpu block
EK x58 3x SLI classified full board block
bitspower matte black compressions

any idea what is up?


----------



## SimpleTech

It's just oxidation. Same thing happened to me, except mine looked a bit worse.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
It's just oxidation. Same thing happened to me, except mine looked a bit worse.

ah, ok. thanks!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
how about now?

Working fine on my end. I switched from WIE to Chrome a few months back, now the links work just fine. Takes a bit of time to load up, but it works


----------



## wermad

yup, happened to all my copper blocks







. thats one of the reasons I switched to nickel plating. I hope my blocks look pretty decent when I pull everything in a couple of months or so.


----------



## tzillian

hey guys, the o ring on my EK HF full nickel ripped but thankfully nothing leaked. wehre can i get a replacement one?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Got a new rad today, going to pull everything apart and give it a nice cleaning when I'm off work. Its been awhile since I took my hk apart, hope it isn't bad.


----------



## veblen

Just finished putting both my GTX 470s under water in my Silverstone Raven RV02.

Here's a list of the components:
1. i7 930 @ 4.0 GHz
2. EK Supreme HF Copper
3. Asus P6X58D Premium
4. Kingston HyperX 3x2GB DDR3
5. 2 x EK GTX 470 Copper Block
6. 2 x EVGA GTX 470
7. Swiftech MCR320
8. 3 x Scythe Slipstream 120 Slim
9. 3 x Silverstone Air Penetrator 180mm
10. WD 640GB Black
11. Mix of 1/2 barbs and 7/16-5/8 BP compression fittings
12. 7/16-5/8 Masterkleer tubing

And some pictures:




























I still have a bit of tidying up to do, i.e. sleeving, and will be trying to mount a reservoir at the end of the second GPU once I manage to remove the two stuck male-male adapters from my old Swiftech micro-res.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## koven

anyone got pics of WC setup in a Silverstone FT02? thinking about upgrading to the FT02 so i can get a custom loop


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *veblen* 
Just finished putting both my GTX 470s under water in my Silverstone Raven RV02.

Here's a list of the components:
1. i7 930 @ 4.0 GHz
2. EK Supreme HF Copper
3. Asus P6X58D Premium
4. Kingston HyperX 3x2GB DDR3
5. 2 x EK GTX 470 Copper Block
6. 2 x EVGA GTX 470
7. Swiftech MCR320
8. 3 x Scythe Slipstream 120 Slim
9. 3 x Silverstone Air Penetrator 180mm
10. WD 640GB Black
11. Mix of 1/2 barbs and 7/16-5/8 BP compression fittings
12. 7/16-5/8 Masterkleer tubing

And some pictures:

I still have a bit of tidying up to do, i.e. sleeving, and will be trying to mount a reservoir at the end of the second GPU once I manage to remove the two stuck male-male adapters from my old Swiftech micro-res.

Im liking the white sleeving, looking good!


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
anyone got pics of WC setup in a Silverstone FT02? thinking about upgrading to the FT02 so i can get a custom loop

Here's one, it isnt mine but someone elses on the forum

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1...f/IMG_2162.jpg

Original thread:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ing-build.html


----------



## koven

thanks for the link

hmm seems kind of cramped in the ft02 too

what's the best ~$200 case for custom loop? i dont like the 700D i think it's ugly lol

would a HAF work well ?


----------



## veblen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Im liking the white sleeving, looking good!

Thanks, Jelah! I still have to do the other PCI-E cables...but am out of white electrical tape.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
anyone got pics of WC setup in a Silverstone FT02? thinking about upgrading to the FT02 so i can get a custom loop

Koven, the FT02 is the handsome version of the RV02 but the innards are pretty much the same.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10937293

I believe my build should fit in the FT02 with no problems at all. In fact, it'd be better given my setup - I can move the hard drive to the cage and not have it next to the pump and res.

I just wish I can justify dumping the RV02 for the FT02...


----------



## veblen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
thanks for the link

hmm seems kind of cramped in the ft02 too

what's the best ~$200 case for custom loop? i dont like the 700D i think it's ugly lol

would a HAF work well ?

Yes, the HAF or HAF X works well, if you like the rugged exterior.

I've heard great things about the CM ATCS 840 too - that's one case I keep wanting to get but I'm running out of space in my cramped apartment.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *veblen* 









You should look into the EK blocks for your mb (nb/sb & vrm) to compliment your EK copper cpu and gpu blocks


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
hey guys, the o ring on my EK HF full nickel ripped but thankfully nothing leaked. wehre can i get a replacement one?

Maybe try contacting EK directly, or the company you purchased the block from (if it wasn't secondhand). Good luck!


----------



## ThaJoker

make me a loop by joining the dots...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
hey guys, the o ring on my EK HF full nickel ripped but thankfully nothing leaked. wehre can i get a replacement one?


Quote:

Send them an email: [email protected]

Here is the sizing info for the 2 o-rings:

small o-ring: 28,3x1,78 NBR 70
big o-ring: 54x2 N701

"mingbogo" -xs
this may help


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThaJoker* 
make me a loop by joining the dots...

2 things:

Why do you have 2 pumps? Do you have 2 radiators there? It's hard to tell.

I don't think you'll be able to squeeze 2 radiators+fans and a power supply all in a row like you have. I would move the PSU to the back of the case, then you'll have more room for fans/etc.
I'll draw up a loop later.


----------



## ThaJoker

2 pumps = pressure
2 rads yes a 240 and 480.. ive seen it done with a psu and fans and it all fits perfect.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThaJoker* 
make me a loop by joining the dots...











Post this under a new thread, this thread is for pics of completed rigs not to ask advice for a new build.

PS. you don't need 2 35x pumps, one is MORE than enough for that loop. Quadrupling your flow won't make much difference in temps.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Thanks to FedEx's amazing shipping process, i don't have my new rad as planned. They kindly emailed me saying my package was delivered today at 4:19 which is outlandish to say the least seeing how i was outside my house at that exact time. ( literally, i was sitting in the car ) Not a single FedEx truck in site, gotta love this bull****...


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
Thanks to FedEx's amazing shipping process, i don't have my new rad as planned. They kindly emailed me saying my package was delivered today at 4:19 which is outlandish to say the least seeing how i was outside my house at that exact time. ( literally, i was sitting in the car ) Not a single FedEx truck in site, gotta love this bull****...

They went to Wrong Address?
Or You were parked in front of the Wrong house?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
They went to Wrong Address?
Or You were parked in front of the Wrong house?









Neither.









But seriously, not a single truck came into the neighborhood. ( house is facing the only entrance ) not to mention i was outside from 4-4:45... seriously annoyed with their bull****, i swear i'm just sticking to priority mail. ( which oddly enough, was more expensive. )


----------



## wermad

I was patiently waiting for my aquarium glass top. UPS truck storms by all scandalous and what not w/ them trucks. hmmm. track the package. bastards damage it, most likely they shattered it







. Anyways, this is offtopic....wait, it has to do w/ water....hmmmm.

On-topic







: any heard about the EK triple sli/xfire block for two cards only? EK has them listed and n/a but none of the US retailers are listing them.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I was patiently waiting for my aquarium glass top. UPS truck storms by all scandalous and what not w/ them trucks. hmmm. track the package. bastards damage it, most likely they shattered it







. Anyways, this is offtopic....wait, it has to do w/ water....hmmmm.

On-topic







: any heard about the EK triple sli/xfire block for two cards only? EK has them listed and n/a but none of the US retailers are listing them.


Triple Block for two cards?








Explain to me?


----------



## wermad

ek currently offers 4 sli/xfire blocks

Dual parallel and series - two card config (ie. slot #1 & slot #3)
Triple parallel and series -three card config (ie slot #1, slot #3, & slot #5)

Ek offers a blank connetor (you also need individual connectors for each block) to cover up any unused spot on a block (ie, using a dual block and only one gpu and/or using a triple and using two gpu)

Ek just launched a tripled spaced block (parallel and series) for cards arranged in slots #1 & #5. But I have not found one for sale yet, and its slightly cheaper than the first triple.

Confusing???









edit: I think they offer a quad for quad sli/xfire. so six total of these blocks, I think


----------



## Orestes

MOAR PICTURES!!...I need a camera


----------



## JE Nightmare

how in the hell does this make any sense...

Quote:



Ship (P/U) date:Oct 4, 2010
Delivery date:Oct 7, 2010 4:19 PM
Sign for by:Signature Not Req
Delivery location:HENDERSON, NV
Service type:FedEx Ground
Packaging typeackage
Number of pieces:1
Weight:3.00 lb.

Shipper Information
Shipping Dept
JAB Computers
19400 SE 89th St
Newalla
OK
US
74857

Recipient Information
joseph alexander
joseph alexander
(my address)
LAS VEGAS
NV
US
89130


from the email; how in the **** does it say it was delivered in a different city in nevada, when my street name is the only one on the west coast? seriously, the only other state that shares the same street name is in texas.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Orestes*


MOAR PICTURES!!...I need a camera


















Were you having an earthquake when you took that pic?







Looks like it could be a cool rig.


----------



## Orestes

i was probably drunk...idk. was my old blackberry's camera. i might work up the motivation to pull the case off the window sill to take a picture later...but still with a mobile phone's camera


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


ek currently offers 4 sli/xfire blocks

Dual parallel and series - two card config (ie. slot #1 & slot #3)
Triple parallel and series -three card config (ie slot #1, slot #3, & slot #5)

Ek offers a blank connetor (you also need individual connectors for each block) to cover up any unused spot on a block (ie, using a dual block and only one gpu and/or using a triple and using two gpu)

Ek just launched a tripled spaced block (parallel and series) for cards arranged in slots #1 & #5. But I have not found one for sale yet, and its slightly cheaper than the first triple.

Confusing???









edit: I think they offer a quad for quad sli/xfire. so six total of these blocks, I think










So Bridges? Right? lol
as in this -->http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek...-parallel.html


----------



## HugosWaterCooler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
MOAR PICTURES!!...I need a camera









Yes you do, try using a stand and turning on the delayed timer and/or use a flash


----------



## Orestes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HugosWaterCooler* 
Yes you do, try using a stand and turning on the delayed timer and/or use a flash

i didn't know they made phone-tripods


----------



## _AKIMbO_

This is post #6 for me Kevin.

I changed out the tubing for Primochill UV Red and switched from using UV dyes to straight distilled water + PT Nuke PHN. I also replaced the UV cathode in my Liquid Fusion with a white cathode and added a white LED vandal switch which is now hooked up to all the cathodes in my case. Additionally, all the UV cathodes in my case were replaced with white CCFLs.


----------



## ASO7

Mine =), lots of pics....






























































































































































































And the liquid im using


----------



## Jelah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


This is post #6 for me Kevin.

I changed out the tubing for Primochill UV Red and switched from using UV dyes to straight distilled water + PT Nuke PHN. I also replaced the UV cathode in my Liquid Fusion with a white cathode and added a white LED vandal switch which is now hooked up to all the cathodes in my case. Additionally, all the UV cathodes in my case were replaced with white CCFLs.


I really need to unsubscribe from this thread, it makes me want to buy stuff i cant afford atm







lol


----------



## HugosWaterCooler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Orestes*


i didn't know they made phone-tripods










So it was a phone camera. Eitherway, there are some universal phone stands. Or with some tape, clamps and a little imagination 'you can dooo it!'


----------



## RatDog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


This is post #6 for me Kevin.

I changed out the tubing for Primochill UV Red and switched from using UV dyes to straight distilled water + PT Nuke PHN. I also replaced the UV cathode in my Liquid Fusion with a white cathode and added a white LED vandal switch which is now hooked up to all the cathodes in my case. Additionally, all the UV cathodes in my case were replaced with white CCFLs.


Nice looking update to your rig. I like the white over the UV for sure!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ASO7*


Mine =), lots of pics....

And the liquid im using










Is it me or does it look like you have two tubes that are just ready to kink over the back of that PSU? And what is the blue stuff your running?


----------



## HugosWaterCooler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ASO7*












Looking at the drops on the table I'm guessing you had alot of practice









Nice build and pics, pretty clean.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jelah*


I really need to unsubscribe from this thread, it makes me want to buy stuff i cant afford atm







lol


Don't unsub, believe me when you finally have the cash to burn you would want these examples when you start planning out your own build.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RatDog*


Nice looking update to your rig. I like the white over the UV for sure!


Thanks...I prefer the white over UV also. I don't really foresee ever going back to UV anymore. White CCFLs just give the case a much more classier feel.


----------



## Orestes

Maybe these will be a little better.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HugosWaterCooler*


Looking at the drops on the table I'm guessing you had alot of practice








Nice build and pics, pretty clean.

Don't unsub, believe me when you finally have the cash to burn you would want these examples when you start planning out your own build.


Yeah i hear ya







i've been saying that for a while, im just itching to completely re-do my loop







Every time i see these 800D's pimped out it makes me want to hide my 932 with its ugly braided tubing in the closet haha


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HugosWaterCooler* 
Looking at the drops on the table I'm guessing you had alot of practice








Nice build and pics, pretty clean.
.

I did a lot of shots



























Quote:


Originally Posted by *RatDog* 
Is it me or does it look like you have two tubes that are just ready to kink over the back of that PSU? And what is the blue stuff your running?

Optical illusion because if u look closer...



















The blue liquid is a mix of blue coolant and primochill electric blue dye.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


So Bridges? Right? lol
as in this -->http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek...-parallel.html










, I just like to call them sli blocks, I get confused w/ the actual sli bridge that connects multiple gpu(s) (ribbon/bridge thingy







)


----------



## HugosWaterCooler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Orestes*


Maybe these will be a little better.


ahh better


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*









, I just like to call them sli blocks, I get confused w/ the actual sli bridge that connects multiple gpu(s) (ribbon/bridge thingy







)


By avoiding your confusion, you confused me!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
Maybe these will be a little better.











Your inlet and outlet are backwards on the EK block.


----------



## Mikecdm

Posted in the "rate my loop" thread, but figured I'd get added to the spread sheet.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Very nice setup







^^^


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mikecdm* 
Posted in the "rate my loop" thread, but figured I'd get added to the spread sheet.

This is the only "real" thread in which to post pictures of your loop









Lot's of nice looking rigs/loops posted lately. I think's it's appropriate to heartily give a big







's up to everyone


----------



## Orestes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Your inlet and outlet are backwards on the EK block.

Theres a difference? a;;


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
Theres a difference? a;;

On most blocks their is, the inlet is usualy the center.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
Theres a difference? a;;

Yes, see the EK manual here

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EK water block manual*
Carefully identify the direction of the flow in your circuit. For the EK-SUPREME HF Cu to operate properly, the fitting nearer the center of the water block MUST BE USED AS THE INLET. To secure the tubes stays properly on the fittings please use hose clamps or appropriate substitute. The use of an algaecide is nonetheless recommended in any liquid cooling system.


----------



## Orestes

Ok, I swapped the intake/exhaust and hwmonitor is still reading the same core temps as before (although the CPUTIN temperature -has- dropped about 6C). However, I've always heard the that Core temps are what matters and the CPUTIN is negligible.


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
Ok, I swapped the intake/exhaust and hwmonitor is still reading the same core temps as before (although the CPUTIN temperature -has- dropped about 6C). However, I've always heard the that Core temps are what matters and the CPUTIN is negligible.

if you open the block up you'll see why there is a difference. the left one was made for intake and right for out. if anything ever happens dont say you werent warned.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
if you open the block up you'll see why there is a difference. the left one was made for intake and right for out. *if anything ever happens dont say you werent warned*.

Lolwut? What's going to happen for you to say that? Slightly higher temps aren't exactly an emergency situation


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
Ok, I swapped the intake/exhaust and hwmonitor is still reading the same core temps as before (although the CPUTIN temperature -has- dropped about 6C). However, I've always heard the that Core temps are what matters and the CPUTIN is negligible.

Same idle or load temps?


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Lolwut? What's going to happen for you to say that? Slightly higher temps aren't exactly an emergency situation









nothing specifically. just saying, i wouldnt leave it up to chance to find out.


----------



## Mikecdm

From the looks of it, the inlet is just a hair more towards the center. Other than that, it doesn't look like there is any noticeable difference.


----------



## oliverw92

There are channels in the top that are designed to work one way specifically.


----------



## bundymania

The white tops are available directly @Ek Waterblocks

New Thermochill Rads in Shops worldwide


----------



## fshizl

bundy how you like the 480 thermochill? would you say its nicer than the feser x 480?


----------



## bundymania

Those new TC Rads arrived yesterday, so pls be patient, until iÂ´ve tested the new family members


----------



## mastical

Couple hundred dollars in fittings there. Looks nice.


----------



## wermad

I purposely switched the inlet and outlets on my hf. I did not have time to take it apart to orient it the correct way due to the revisions on my loop when I added the compression fittings. So far temps are about the same and this weekend I'll get around to correct it.


----------



## fshizl

lol well i mean if the temperatures seem good then i wouldnt really worry about it, but then again you gotta consider that when you reseat the heatsink its gonna have new tim and stuff and that could contribute to a different temperature reading... thats why i like to touch mine as little as possible...

im getting great temperatures, the last thing i want is me messing it up lol... i have no idea how i am going to clean my loop in a couple of months.


----------



## Sean W.




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

also, you should all check out my worklog.









\\shameless plug


----------



## AdvanSuper

I just see lights!!


----------



## Sean W.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I just see lights!!

















jealous?


----------



## Kinru

First try.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

Wish my first try was that good!


----------



## Kinru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Wish my first try was that good!









Heh thanks, took a lot of planning and measuring to get everything to fit inside of the antec 902. Wish I had a bigger case but I got this one brand new for 70 so I couldn't pass it up. I think everything turned out ok. Just need new TIM and a couple of yate loons to finish it.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kinru* 
Heh thanks, took a lot of planning and measuring to get everything to fit inside of the antec 902. Wish I had a bigger case but I got this one brand new for 70 so I couldn't pass it up. I think everything turned out ok. Just need new TIM and a couple of yate loons to finish it.

That's minor stuff, the hard part is done and out of the way. You did a good job with the hard part


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I've finally had time to make a more serious watercooling build. Here she is.

IMG_0503

IMG_0498

IMG_0492


----------



## mitchbowman

look's great

but what's that lamptron unit ?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mitchbowman* 
look's great

but what's that lamptron unit ?

thanks! the lamptron unit is a ccfl converter


----------



## tzillian

is all of that cooled with 1 360 rad?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tzillian* 
is all of that cooled with 1 360 rad?

No lol, a 360,240 and 120


----------



## v1ral

Looks epic. Love the set up


----------



## Xraven771

Upload some more 2morrow....


----------



## v1ral

I like man. How's that ek
radiator treating you


----------



## AdvanSuper

What's a good and relatively cheap priced res for my 700D?


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mitchbowman* 
look's great

but what's that lamptron unit ?

one of these pretty sure


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
What's a good and relatively cheap priced res for my 700D?

Swiftech Micro Res V2


----------



## Liighthead

does the rez make any temp differnce, compaired to not having one?
probaly stupid question, but when you add a rez to the h50, temps drop 5 - 10 degrees
compaired to a Tline, does it do anything to the temps?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RatDog* 
Swiftech Micro Res V2

And what would a $50 limit get me?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
And what would a $50 limit get me?

anything under 400mL


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
I've finally had time to make a more serious watercooling build. Here she is. A few things will be added monday-ish like single sleeved psu cables, mnpctech rad grills, and a sr1 360 that will be replacing the damaged rx360








[/URL]IMG_0488[/IMG]

IMG_0492


I really like the case. Torn between a cube and prism sized case. The only thing I would add is a fan/s over the ram.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rangerscott* 
I really like the case. Torn between a cube and prism sized case. The only thing I would add is a fan/s over the ram.

Thanks, I have the corsair ram fans, but the noise is awful, otherwise I would use them.


----------



## rzs77

Here's some more pics of my rig. hope you guys don't mind


----------



## loop0001

really like the open window you have in the top. it's a sky light!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

With such a awesome rig like that I don't mind the pictures at all!


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loop0001* 
really like the open window you have in the top. it's a sky light!

Hahaha! It's not meant to be like that. I'm waiting for a plexi cover of some sort. Still contemplating on the design though. What do u guys suggest? Opened towards any design right now since I don't have a clue of one. Another MDPC top grill?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
With such a awesome rig like that I don't mind the pictures at all!









Thanks mate. Appreciate the nice comment


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Hahaha! It's not meant to be like that. I'm waiting for a plexi cover of some sort. Still contemplating on the design though. What do u guys suggest? Opened towards any design right now since I don't have a clue of one. Another MDPC top grill?









Thanks mate. Appreciate the nice comment









Hey, you deserve it.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rangerscott* 
I really like the case. Torn between a cube and prism sized case. The only thing I would add is a fan/s over the ram.

Getting this case was the best decision I've ever made. Get one and don't look back. They are pricey, but completely worth it. So many different combinations of panels make it amazing. You can add as much cooling as you want because all you have to do is add a MM Pedestal to the bottom that can hold 2 360 rads. As long as you have room to make it taller the sky's ur limit.


----------



## whipple16

dont judge the pics too hard.. its a work in progress.. give me a week!

right now i just have the rasa 750 kit installed.

later this week the new parts should be ariving









evga 780i sli mobo
4 high spped yate loons
ek chipset blocks
Q9550

i will be replacing the UD3P with the 780i and water cooling the chipset. i'm going to put the HD bay back in the bottom of the case and put the res in the bay where it belongs. I have a bunch of 4 pin extension and y's coming for cable management as well as black sleeving kit ( not sure how much of that i'll actually get done tho)

only real thing left is to decide if i change the tubing to black? microcenter has it in stock if i decide to go that route and its only about 30 mins away....

any idea or comments would be great.


----------



## eVGAX58

Hey,
Back to you with the new rig.

































Regards


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Hahaha! It's not meant to be like that. I'm waiting for a plexi cover of some sort. Still contemplating on the design though. What do u guys suggest? Opened towards any design right now since I don't have a clue of one. Another MDPC top grill?









Thanks mate. Appreciate the nice comment









i still vote sky light! lol


----------



## Coldr

Hello dudes I am interested in water cooled systems I like the design and advantages. I am a plumber and hope to add any experience I have and you have to create ideas to advance what is possible. I have never made a water cooled system for a pc but deal with the peripherals, although different in model or size, in plumbing everyday.
Has anyone had any dealings in making parts themselves or one of my ideas is to make the pipes out of copper rather than plastic tubing you would lose less heat and could pump it faster?


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Coldr* 
Hello dudes I am interested in water cooled systems I like the design and advantages. I am a plumber and hope to add any experience I have and you have to create ideas to advance what is possible. I have never made a water cooled system for a pc but deal with the peripherals, although different in model or size, in plumbing everyday.
Has anyone had any dealings in making parts themselves or one of my ideas is to make the pipes out of copper rather than plastic tubing you would lose less heat and could pump it faster?

welcome!
plumbing bit. reminds me of a special build.
a guy did a nearly 100% copper pipe water loop once.

i remember that he said there was one nice advantage of copper pipes..the 90 degree angle fittings sacrifice alot less flow rate than regular 90 fittings.

anywho, he did it. turned out quite well and very unique. have fun if you do it!


----------



## Sean W.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eVGAX58* 
Hey,
Back to you with the new rig.

































Regards


that is pretty much my dream build right there... throw another 5870 in the mix and that is my dream build...


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sean W.* 
that is pretty much my dream build right there... throw another 5870 in the mix and that is my dream build...

there are already 3...why the hell have more than that?!?!?!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loop0001* 
there are already 3...why the hell have more than that?!?!?!

why not go quad sli 480s instead or even tri sli 480s. They stomp those cards hard. Heat isn't an issue either... mine idle at 33 and load at 49.


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
why not go quad sli 480s instead or even tri sli 480s. They stomp those cards hard. Heat isn't an issue either... mine idle at 33 and load at 49.

because performance scaling for the price you pay just doesnt pay for itself..
i know this is OCN and excessiveness isnt a rule because it would just be broken and maxed out.

i dunno. mb im used to bein poor lol i just dont see it.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loop0001* 
because performance scaling for the price you pay just doesnt pay for itself..
i know this is OCN and excessiveness isnt a rule because it would just be broken and maxed out.

i dunno. mb im used to bein poor lol i just dont see it.

price and performance are always on an exponential curve with every product ever made. Just depends on how big u want ur e-peen to be. Gaming experience difference will be little to none unless ur running 3 screens in 3d at 2560x1600


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
price and performance are always on an exponential curve with every product ever made. Just depends on how big u want ur e-peen to be. Gaming experience difference will be little to none unless ur running 3 screens in 3d at 2560x1600

i guess if i ever experience it i will know. all encouragement to those that can


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
3 screens in 3d at 2560x1600

unfortunately there is no such thing. :-(

if there where I would own one of them...


----------



## wermad

EK sli block/bridge on their way. went w/ triple in hopes of adding a 3rd gtx 470 down the road, after changing to i7 platform first







.


----------



## Andreoid

*Anfi-tec Asus Crosshair IV extreme lightcoverset










Anfi-tec Asus Crosshair IV extreme lightcoverset CAD view










Anfi-tec UPC slim Universal PWM Cooler










Anfi-tec UPC mini Universal PWM Cooler









*


----------



## fshizl

do you have anything for the zotac mini itx motherboard?


----------



## Chicken Patty

That's some nice looking stuff right there.


----------



## whipple16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eVGAX58* 
Hey,
Back to you with the new rig.

Regards

I'm always jealous with sli/crossfire watercooled setups. Just looks so bad ass with the blocks all linked together!!!!!


----------



## R00ST3R

I swore my last batch, would be just that, the last... but I just could not resist...


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
I swore my last batch, would be just that, the last... but I just could not resist...









way to go.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 







way to go.

I'm eying the prize of snatching the "least tubing used award" from KShirza1









Not really, just had to make this mess I have going now look like something sensible


----------



## wermad

self-control, you guys need to learn some, apparently neither can I










shipped today


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
self-control, you guys need to learn some, apparently neither can I










shipped today









Yea, I think most of us are enablers







Nice block "bridge" man


----------



## xgeko2

awww man this thread is awesome. I wish I had pictures of my old watercooled lian li rigs all I have now is my antec900 with a thermal take bigwater745 kit and some duct tape!! =) But I have one of those xspc kits on order

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...l=g30c321s1310

Will take before and after photos


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
do you have anything for the zotac mini itx motherboard?

which zotac mini itx? there are many itx zotac boards ^^
http://geizhals.at/deutschland/?fs=zotac+mini+itx&in=

easily one can use our universal chipset blocks at the zotac (UCD Universal Cooling Device)
*

UCD grande:










UCD nano










example of installation:










UCD sb










example of installation:










and the UCD classic








*

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
That's some nice looking stuff right there.









thx


----------



## rzs77

Got myself a new custom backplate for my 4890


----------



## airplaneman

Just ordered a new block (EK Supreme HF) and some better fans as well as some sleeving. Block and fans should be here in a couple days, sleeving; I have no idea.

I'll post pics when they arrive, I'm stoked!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## pac0tac0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Got myself a new custom backplate for my 4890









Who made it?


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pac0tac0* 
Who made it?

I came up with the idea and asked my dad to cut for me


----------



## pac0tac0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
I came up with the idea and asked my dad to cut for me









it just two peices of colored plexy? that sits on the card?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

just wanted to throw this out there:


----------



## whood886

rzs77 you wouldn't have a pic of the back plate not mounted would you?


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
just wanted to throw this out there:



















Looks good...now get some paint on that 120.

Great job hiding wires and hose can't even see'em!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FannBlade* 
Looks good...now get some paint on that 120.

Great job hiding wires and hose can't even see'em!!!

yea, the paint is coming. ;-)

and yea, I know right! It is almost as if they are not installed yet.


----------



## wermad

tri sli







w/ HK sli-bridge-block









cant wait to get mine (ek). any estimation when this build will be complete? Looks almost ready


----------



## silvester

yea,looks awesome!+ on that!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
tri sli







w/ HK sli-bridge-block









cant wait to get mine (ek). any estimation when this build will be complete? Looks almost ready

















hard bridges are the way to go for SLI watercooling.

I am working on it bit by bit and it is coming along, but due to school and work and such I think it will probably end up being 2-3 weeks still.

also, I have placed an order with Frozen-Q for a replacement helix for my liquid fusion, so i will have to wait for that. I did not like the color of the UV red he uses, so he is getting me a different red.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *silvester* 
yea,looks awesome!+ on that!

thanks.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whood886* 
rzs77 you wouldn't have a pic of the back plate not mounted would you?

I was too excited to take pics









slapped it on as soon as the cutting finished.

I'll take pics later when i disassemble it to resit my block.


----------



## JE Nightmare

fedex finally found the package they lost, got a new rad but i won't post pictures until i build my new bench. hopefully doing that on my next set of days off.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
fedex finally found the package they lost, got a new rad but i won't post pictures until i build my new bench. hopefully doing that on my next set of days off.

How far off are your next days off? Also, what rad did you get?

On a side note, I just received a call from Gary at Sidewinders. Seem's a fitting I ordered was no longer in stock, so he is sending me an acceptable replacement that costs about $5.00USD more for the same price. Only thought it appropriate to give them some exposure for the positive customer service experience they were willing to extend me







.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
How far off are your next days off? Also, what rad did you get?

On a side note, I just received a call from Gary at Sidewinders. Seem's a fitting I ordered was no longer in stock, so he is sending me an acceptable replacement that costs about $5.00USD more for the same price. Only thought it appropriate to give them some exposure for the positive customer service experience they were willing to extend me







.

picked up an rs240 ( $15 shipped literally ) next day off is saturday. plan to buy everything i need to make my temp case then on monday ( love split days >.< ) i'd start work on building it.


----------



## loop0001

15 bucks?! nice!!!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
picked up an rs240 ( $15 shipped literally ) next day off is saturday. plan to buy everything i need to make my temp case then on monday ( love split days >.< ) i'd start work on building it.

Cool, I'll hold you to a completion date of Oct. 22nd. Any later and I will be disappoint









j/k







Seriously though, that's one heck of a deal on that rad







.


----------



## JE Nightmare

lol yeah it was, even if it's a dated model you can't beat that price. 10 days should be enough time for me to finish it.


----------



## whood886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
I was too excited to take pics









slapped it on as soon as the cutting finished.

I'll take pics later when i disassemble it to resit my block.

well from what i can see it looks really nice.


----------



## koven

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Got myself a new custom backplate for my 4890




































nooob question, what kind of tubing/barbs are those? i'm looking to use the exact same in mine


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whood886* 
well from what i can see it looks really nice.


Thanks!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
nooob question, what kind of tubing/barbs are those? i'm looking to use the exact same in mine


Those are TFC compression fittings and tubings with Bitspower silvershining barbs.


----------



## TheSchlaf

Some pics of my new rig:


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSchlaf* 
Some pics of my new rig:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2441107...7625152833418/

nice rig. ^ you linked to a album, not pics..

ppls just gotta clicky that link


----------



## TheSchlaf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
nice rig. ^ you linked to a album, not pics..

ppls just gotta clicky that link

There, got it. Stupid Flickr and their "You can't post static links" policy! Just had to figure out how to do it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

Yay or Nay?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27961


----------



## wermad

bay res


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
bay res









Too much money. That is if you're recommending it for me.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Yay or Nay?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27961

it wont fit inside the 700D


----------



## wermad

true, very nice but too pricey imo. a bay res would look awesome imo, xspc has some good ones. I pieced my res from koolance res parts, ~$75


----------



## AdvanSuper

Can I hook up my fill port to the top port on this res?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22698

Debating...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27960

I wasn't really paying attention to the size, thanks for pointing that out.


----------



## wermad

which fill port? Mostly all res have g1/4 threads/ports and include a plug. I bought the danger den fill port, went perfectly with my HAF 932, its useless now w/ my current case. so its in the wc parts bin I'm somehow compiling


----------



## Jelah

Hey guys, im having a bit of an issue with my loop.. I took it appart lastnight to clean everything out, and put it all back in my case, now im having an extremly hard time getting the air out of the loop.. My pump isnt strong enough to push all the air through into the mcr120, any suggestions on how i can get it out? Im thinking of putting the case on its side, removing the mcr120 and lifting it above the rest of the case, but im not sure if that will work. Would appreciate any other ideas







Will take a pic of my loop when i get home to explain a bit better


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
which fill port? Mostly all res have g1/4 threads/ports and include a plug. I bought the danger den fill port, went perfectly with my HAF 932, its useless now w/ my current case. so its in the wc parts bin I'm somehow compiling









I already have a danger den fill port which is located on top of my case. I want to know if I'd be able to run a line from the fill port to this port on the res


----------



## JE Nightmare

the DD fill port is to small.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I want to know if I can run a line from the fill port to that port on the res. I'm not putting the DD fill port in the res.


----------



## JE Nightmare

you could but it would sorta just sit in the whole. it's a fairly large hole.


----------



## Outcasst

Updated Build, add me in please


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
you could but it would sorta just sit in the whole. it's a fairly large hole.

What I was afraid of... Any bay reservoir's with a G1/4 thread port on the top so I run run a line from the DD to the fitting I use on the res? I'd hate for the DD fill port to go to waste now.


----------



## JE Nightmare

not that i know of but i don't go out of my way to find out the size of the hole at the top. you could always use duct tape.


----------



## SimpleTech

The hole is M20 x 1.5mm.

So you need something like this to convert it to G1/4".


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
What I was afraid of... Any bay reservoir's with a G1/4 thread port on the top so I run run a line from the DD to the fitting I use on the res? I'd hate for the DD fill port to go to waste now.

Not that I am aware of either, but a lot of bay res's have multiple G1/4 ports on the back. You could always put a 90 degree fitting in one of those and then run a tube to the roof and attach it to your DD fill port.

Like this Primo Chill one:


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Hey guys, im having a bit of an issue with my loop.. I took it appart lastnight to clean everything out, and put it all back in my case, now im having an extremly hard time getting the air out of the loop.. My pump isnt strong enough to push all the air through into the mcr120, any suggestions on how i can get it out? Im thinking of putting the case on its side, removing the mcr120 and lifting it above the rest of the case, but im not sure if that will work. Would appreciate any other ideas







Will take a pic of my loop when i get home to explain a bit better

I try to place the radiator as low as I can get it in relation to the pump. Shaking it about as much as possible to dislodge any air bubbles. Also squeezing the tubing and tapping on metal fittings will help dislodge the air bubbles. Leaving the fill port open on the reservoir can help too, so the air can escape a bit easier.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RatDog* 
Not that I am aware of either, but a lot of bay res's have multiple G1/4 ports on the back. You could always put a 90 degree fitting in one of those and then run a tube to the roof and attach it to your DD fill port.

Like this Primo Chill one:









Yes I have seen that as well, but the one I am looking at only has two ports. Still have time to look around as well since I'm not in a rush.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Yes I have seen that as well, but the one I am looking at only has two ports. Still have time to look around as well since I'm not in a rush.

I get that on that XSPC, just saying other ones have more ports. Your other option would be to get a tap and drill and make your own. Or, you could ask someone on these forums that have an XSPC res to figure out what size and thread that screw port is. Then might be able to find a plumbing fitting to adapt it to the tube size you want. /shrug


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RatDog* 
I get that on that XSPC, just saying other ones have more ports. Your other option would be to get a tap and drill and make your own. Or, you could ask someone on these forums that have an XSPC res to figure out what size and thread that screw port is. Then might be able to find a plumbing fitting to adapt it to the tube size you want. /shrug

Simpletech answered it above and provided a link to an adapter already


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
The hole is M20 x 1.5mm.

So you need something like this to convert it to G1/4".

^^ this. qft.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I already have a danger den fill port which is located on top of my case. I want to know if I'd be able to run a line from the fill port to this port on the res










Thats a g1/4 thread-port: you could put a barb on that one, add another barb to the bottom of the DD fill port, add some tubing and clamps. The only thing I would warn you about is that the design of a fill port has a flaw. as you add liquid, you'll need to find a way for the air to escape, and if there is none, the liquid will sit there or you'll have to close the fillport, rock your rig back and forth to move the air into the tube connecting the res and fill port, open the fill port to release. I realized that when I installed it on my HAF 932 build. I just ended up using g1/4 plugs, like the koolance w/ grip teeth so i could unscrew it by hand and used a squeeze bottle w/ a curve tube/straw to fill it.

edit: just read its an m20, you'll need the conversion adapter.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
I try to place the radiator as low as I can get it in relation to the pump. Shaking it about as much as possible to dislodge any air bubbles. Also squeezing the tubing and tapping on metal fittings will help dislodge the air bubbles. Leaving the fill port open on the reservoir can help too, so the air can escape a bit easier.

Thanks man, i tried setting it on its side, raised the rad/res up, and started squeezing the tubes like crazy, got it all out, and my temps are looking much better with my new tim/ fan set up







I was to the point of frustration yesterday that i was ready to go back to air







dont think i could ever do that though, temps just don't compare


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Outcasst* 
Updated Build, add me in please




























is that a custom side panel or did you buy it from somewhere, also great build


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
is that a custom side panel or did you buy it from somewhere, also great build

I know those pictures weren't large, but please get into the habit of removing any images that don't pertain to what you want to say when quoting someone else's post. Having to load the same images multiple times because someone quoted the whole lot is not fun for those with slow connections.


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I know those pictures weren't large, but please get into the habit of removing any images that don't pertain to what you want to say when quoting someone else's post. Having to load the same images multiple times because someone quoted the whole lot is not fun for those with slow connections.

sorry I thought I did but I was talking on the phone and got distracted, I will remove them.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
sorry I thought I did but I was talking on the phone and got distracted, I will remove them.

All good


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Thanks man, i tried setting it on its side, raised the rad/res up, and started squeezing the tubes like crazy, got it all out, and my temps are looking much better with my new tim/ fan set up







I was to the point of frustration yesterday that i was ready to go back to air







dont think i could ever do that though, temps just don't compare









Glad to hear that you were able to get it sorted out


----------



## Outcasst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
is that a custom side panel or did you buy it from somewhere, also great build

I bought it separately. It was about Â£13/$20.


----------



## oliverw92

Ahh ok


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Outcasst* 
I bought it separately. It was about Â£13/$20.

Where did you buy it from?


----------



## Outcasst

http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Coole...or-CM-692-Case


----------



## Squirrel-666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_REAPER_* 









that cut out of the reaper very nice i also have it tattooed on me arm


----------



## wermad

Major leak on the ek sli bridge block! possible leak on the blank link and the bottom link. seems like only the bottom card got a bit of liquid. there's a puddle inside my case, thankfully all components are raised a bit. Gonna take apart the 2nd card and dry it out and redo







, there goes my leak-free streak














.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 





































Major leak on the ek sli bridge block! possible leak on the blank link and the bottom link. seems like only the bottom card got a bit of liquid. there's a puddle inside my case, thankfully all components are raised a bit. Gonna take apart the 2nd card and dry it out and redo







, there goes my leak-free streak














.

how does that block work? like, how does it connect to each card's block?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
how does that block work? like, how does it connect to each card's block?

yep








Its like a mother Block sitting a top the others, Which are connected to each block to form the loop


----------



## wermad

I think I might have found my error, I used one of the short screws where the instructions say to use a longer one.

You have to get these links that attach to the gpu block, then you screw in the sli bridge to the these links.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
yep








Its like a mother Block sitting a top the others, Which are connected to each block to form the loop

I know that much, I have one of the HK ones. I want to know, specifically for that product, what type of screws and threads and gaskets it uses...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
I think I might have found my error, I used one of the short screws where the instructions say to use a longer one.

You have to get these links that attach to the gpu block, then you screw in the sli bridge to the these links.

any chance you can post some pics of the bottom of the block and how it interfaces with the GPU blocks?


----------



## wermad

ok, this was a major







moment. In a rush to set this up before work, I didnt read the instructions carefully, and i used the wrong screws in some parts. Yes, there is a reason why they include instructions, for impatient people like me to fix my stupidity. Ok, Ill try to complete it tonight and run the pumps only for leak testing as Im letting the case air dry for a day, and pics tonight.


----------



## SimpleTech

@wermad,

But wait.. there's more!










Just yanking your chain. We all make mistakes every once in a while.


----------



## wermad

I deserves it for rushing through it







. I failed today


----------



## JE Nightmare

decided to pull the trigger on a universal block this week instead of building a case. with new vegas around the corner, these 70c+ gaming temps won't do.


----------



## wermad

which one, if I may ask, ?


----------



## JE Nightmare

picked up a bnib koolance 210 for $20.


----------



## RushMore1205

not baad price


----------



## KShirza1

Update


----------



## kidwolf909

I can't wait to join you all when my XSPC kit arrives and I get it all into my Stacker







Nice jobs guys! Love the craftsmanship put into these rigs!


----------



## koven

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KShirza1* 
Update


nice! what tube/fittings are those? i'm going for a similar look on my first loop


----------



## airplaneman

Just installed my EK Supreme HF and the S-Flex's and wow, load temps dropped dramatically, as did idles.

Idle temps went from 38-44 to 34-40 on the CPU, and my 480 idles at 32 =D. Load; the CPU barely breaks 50, and the GPU sits at a nice and low 42C. I'm pretty happy with those results! Pics up whenever the bubbles decide to come out from hiding.


----------



## R00ST3R

Yet another update....

Redone the CPU area:









Put a 5-way rotary down there 'tween the GPU block and res:









So that's what it looks like now:









Yes, I am working out a plan for a real PSU cover some day


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Wow talk about TOO MANY fittings. Waste of $$ and those extra fittings would probably build another setup.


----------



## Orestes

or a whole new rig >.>;;


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Wow talk about TOO MANY fittings. Waste of $$ and those extra fittings would probably build another setup.

Sir, would you like some tube with your fittings?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I personaly think it is too many fittings because of the amount of restriction those things add. each 45 degree section is roughly 2 feet of tubing, and the extra loops of tube would look smoother and cleaner...


----------



## Orestes

a few more, trying to save some cash for 470 blocks :<





































no major changes, just covered up the sata wires and replaced the cover on the back of the hotswap bays (4 months later i finally get my second hd to show up, wee i have raid0 again)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
a few more, trying to save some cash for 470 blocks :<

snip

no major changes, just covered up the sata wires and replaced the cover on the back of the hotswap bays (4 months later i finally get my second hd to show up, wee i have raid0 again)

MMM... I love the white tubing! Can't wait for mine to come in


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Sir, would you like some tube with your fittings?

Ill take 10 ft please


----------



## eclipseaudio4

ok so here is mine. Sorry bout the pics I was just too happy to take really good ones.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Are those plastic barbs?


----------



## JE Nightmare

wow, i thought my setup was fugly.


----------



## SimpleTech

Lol, is that dust?


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Are those plastic barbs?









nope bitspower matt black except for the fill and drain lines.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
wow, i thought my setup was fugly.

To each his own. I personally like mine









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Lol, is that dust?

Quite a bit! really need to find some time to take it apart and clean it good!


----------



## godofdeath

wont the liquid evaporate from the funnel?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
wont the liquid evaporate from the funnel?

over time yes but its not that bad


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
wont the liquid evaporate from the funnel?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
over time yes but its not that bad

yes it would. that was there because I was filling. I have a plug in there now so it is back to being a closed loop.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I personaly think it is too many fittings because of the amount of restriction those things add. each 45 degree section is roughly 2 feet of tubing, and the extra loops of tube would look smoother and cleaner...

totaly agree, its funny when people have a lot of money and dont know what to do with it
lol


----------



## crunchie

This one is my DFI/940BE set up.









This is the 890FXA/1090T


----------



## wermad




----------



## kevingreenbmx

thanks wermad.

Does it use any sort of o-ring?

updated


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Wow talk about TOO MANY fittings. Waste of $$ and those extra fittings would probably build another setup.

Who's to say that I won't be building another WC rig here sometime in the future







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I personaly think it is too many fittings because of the amount of restriction those things add. each 45 degree section is roughly 2 feet of tubing, and the extra loops of tube would look smoother and cleaner...

I agree. Don't like how it looks either. I'm just having fun experimenting is all. This "revision" won't stay like this for long (I give it 2 weeks tops). I enjoy the process of building just as much, if not more, then the finished product. Just have a bad case of "tinkeritus" is all







. Restriction so far does not seem to be a problem. Temps have not budged in the slightest.

While I have your attention though, what do you people think about painting the tread plate blue?









It's just a single coat of paint, it does get a bit darker with multiple coats. I'm thinking of matching that with navy blue tubing. Thought's?


----------



## JE Nightmare

not feelin' it.


----------



## eclipseaudio4

personally love it but some people also think ma case is fugly







Like I said before to each his own. YOU have to live with it, or change it, so do what you think looks best.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Wow, never seen so many people ripping on others just because they don't like the hard work of that person. Play nice and if you don't like something, don't be a jerk about it because someone has put time and effort into this stuff and is probably pretty pleased with how it turned out...


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Wow, never seen so many people ripping on others just because they don't like the hard work of that person. Play nice and if you don't like something, don't be a jerk about it because someone has put time and effort into this stuff and is probably pretty pleased with how it turned out...

He already said he didn't like it much either. Of course he worked hard on it and nobody disrespected that. It's all just friendly ribbing. At least from me it was.


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
*awesome pics*

Ahahahahaha! A shoe-rack tech-station!









That is sweeeeeeeeeeet!









+







for re-purposing stuff.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
not feelin' it.

Yea, not to mention the fact I can't find any tubing thats a deep enough blue to match. O'well, just gonna have to stay black & chrome for a while.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4* 
personally love it but some people also think ma case is fugly







*Like I said before to each his own*. YOU have to live with it, or change it, so do what you think looks best.

I couldn't agree more









Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Wow, never seen so many people ripping on others just because they don't like the hard work of that person. Play nice and if you don't like something, don't be a jerk about it because someone has put time and effort into this stuff and is probably pretty pleased with how it turned out...

...and I couldn't have said it better myself









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
He already said he didn't like it much either. Of course he worked hard on it and nobody disrespected that. It's all just friendly ribbing. At least from me it was.

Well, it wasn't just friendly ribbing. From you I took it that way (as friendly ribbing I mean), and Kev took time for some constructive critique, which is always appreciated of course







. But you know what they say, "Haters gonna hate"







.

Just a side note: I wouldn't say I worked hard on it, because I enjoy it







. I will be removing some of the fittings of course, but does anyone know if there is any purple tubing out there?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Well, it wasn't just friendly ribbing. From you I took it that way, and Kev took time for some constructive critique, which is always appreciated of course







. But you know what they say, "Haters gonna hate"







.

I wasn't hating on the look or the style so much as stating that i did not like the functionality of it. I can dig anything that involves more bits power fittings. ;-)

I just always try to go for maximum performance and simplicity.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I wasn't hating on the look or the style so much as stating that i did not like the functionality of it. I can dig anything that involves more bits power fittings. ;-)

I just always try to go for maximum performance and simplicity.

I know Kev







. I did mention that I appreciated your constructive critique, didn't I









Anyways enough of the "drama" for me.









Still wondering if anyone knows of a North American e-tailor that carries either a navy blue, or purple tubing in 7/16's x 5/8's.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
thanks wermad.

Does it use any sort of o-ring?

updated

Yes, the links attach to the gpu block by removing the three screws where the ports are located, the link gets attached with longer screws. The link sits on the gpu ports with o-rings, then you add two more o-rings that attach to the sli block.


















(Im pulling out everything and tearing it down for a good scrubbing and Im ditching dye and switching to distilled w/ a kill coil. Im just no liking how the dye is treating my beautiful ek blocks







).

edit: Roost, in keeping with your unique build, I applaud your setup (though I would not try it myself







) , awesome looking non-the-less, keep up the good work







!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

what is the purpose of that block on the GTX 470 block? just to make the barbs face out?


----------



## wermad

thats the link that attaches to the sli bridge block

edit: here is the illustration from the EK instructions, kinda of unique and tricky to install, and I failed on the last part installing the right screws


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Why spend all the money on that, when you can just use 2 compression fittings a 3" piece of tubing to connect them









my old setup









Im gonna do the same on the HAF X next week.


----------



## oliverw92

Why spend loads of money on those two black compression fittings when you could use plastic barbs and a worm drive...


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Why spend loads of money on those two black compression fittings when you could use plastic barbs and a worm drive...

because plastic barbs are not cool. and worm clamps are also not cool and unsightly

but I supposed that is also the reason why someone would spend 40$ on the EK adapters and bridge


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Why spend loads of money on those two black compression fittings when you could use plastic barbs and a worm drive...

why watercool in the first place?? lol


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loop0001* 
why watercool in the first place?? lol

Because it looks awesome, it's quieter than air cooling, it provides better temperatures, and it's another DIY project that adds value to your rig.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
because plastic barbs are not cool. and worm clamps are also not cool and unsightly

but I supposed that is also the reason why someone would spend 40$ on the EK adapters and bridge

Exactly


----------



## Yogi

meh


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Why spend all the money on that, when you can just use 2 compression fittings a 3" piece of tubing to connect them









my old setup









Im gonna do the same on the HAF X next week.

Im using 1/2x3/4 tube and compression fittings, the fittings did not fit on the blocks, too wide. Believe me, had I been using something smaller, say 7/16x5/8 and the compression fittings cleared the pcb, I would have gone that route. Plus, its more bling







. I say, do what ever your heart desires. I love the way the ek bridge block works, its supa sexy


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Because it looks awesome, it's quieter than air cooling, it provides better temperatures, and it's another DIY project that adds value to your rig.

i guess also the reason why some people use that huge sli block for their loop then







to spend the money.

i wasnt actually objecting to watercooling. it's freakin awesome.

just throwin in a joke


----------



## wermad

yeah, the sli block was pretty pricey, all together w/ the three links and a blank, was ~$70usd








. Still, I ask the same thing way when people spend $15 on ONE bitspower fitting when you can add cheap barbs







. Like I said, do what ever you want, its your money, and really, one should be looking to impress themselves first, everyone else comes later


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I got the triple card connector because it was $15 and made it so I only needed two compression fittings instead of six.

Also, mine is WAY simpler. It has two screws and an o-ring for each card. None of those smaller blocks.


----------



## wermad

I love the complexity of it


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
He already said he didn't like it much either. Of course he worked hard on it and nobody disrespected that. It's all just friendly ribbing. At least from me it was.

I can understand some friendly jesting but it wasn't just that system where thoughtless comments were made. There was another one and someone straight out said it was fugly. Pretty rude if you ask me...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
I love the complexity of it









The problem with complexity is that it has more possibility of failure. I like things simple. Also, with how yours work it adds two extra sharp 90 degree turns...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I can understand some friendly jesting but it wasn't just that system where thoughtless comments were made. There was another one and someone straight out said it was fugly. Pretty rude if you ask me...

Yea, I saw that too and choose to ignore it in the hope people wouldn't blow it up...


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I like cake.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Syrillian* 
Ahahahahaha! A shoe-rack tech-station!









That is sweeeeeeeeeeet!









+







for re-purposing stuff.

Use what you got, I reckon







.


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I can understand some friendly jesting but it wasn't just that system where thoughtless comments were made. There was another one and someone straight out said it was fugly. Pretty rude if you ask me...

eh i dont get ma feelings hurt easily.



















BTW not a shoe rack







actual techbench mass produced.


----------



## Rona

Did someone say *CAKE!?*


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I got the triple card connector because it was $15 and made it so I only needed two compression fittings instead of six.

This ^ (Although the EK bridge isn't $15)

I guess I am a sucker for asthetics... To me, the EK bridge just makes the whole setup look so much cleaner. I love mine and can't wait to spend the $12 for the 3rd card adapter and throw the $12 Blank out! lol >.> The way I see it is if you're gonna spend all this money on it, what's 50-$75 more to make it look better...










It just looks so much cleaner to me than having tubing between the cards, to each is there own I guess. Don't kill me over the Feser, it's long gone and I am back to Distilled and a Coil


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rona* 
This ^ (Although the EK bridge isn't $15)

I guess I am a sucker for asthetics... To me, the EK bridge just makes the whole setup look so much cleaner. I love mine and can't wait to spend the $12 for the 3rd card adapter and throw the $12 Blank out! lol >.> The way I see it is if you're gonna spend all this money on it, what's 50-$75 more to make it look better...










It just looks so much cleaner to me than having tubing between the cards, to each is there own I guess. Don't kill me over the Feser, it's long gone and I am back to Distilled and a Coil









That bridge looks cool, but they way I am, I wouldn't think twice about spending the $$ on the required stuff to use that bridge, if 2 fittings and a hose will do the same work, and still look good.


----------



## wermad

only thing missing is a 3rd, just like me









edit: agreed about the dye, Im ditching it as soon as I get my card back









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rona* 
This ^ (Although the EK bridge isn't $15)

I guess I am a sucker for asthetics... To me, the EK bridge just makes the whole setup look so much cleaner. I love mine and can't wait to spend the $12 for the 3rd card adapter and throw the $12 Blank out! lol >.> The way I see it is if you're gonna spend all this money on it, what's 50-$75 more to make it look better...










It just looks so much cleaner to me than having tubing between the cards, to each is there own I guess. Don't kill me over the Feser, it's long gone and I am back to Distilled and a Coil


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 














only thing missing is a 3rd, just like me







(

Indeed, I think I need to get a larger PSU though. I've asked across a few boards and most say unless I start pushing 800+ o/c's on the 470's I should be okay w/ my HX1000 but I just am not so confident







Also, all this rage recently about burnt 24pin ATX connectors w/ 470/480 GPU's on the older verison x58 boards concerns me alot, also.

I swear, I don't think I could ever _"finish"_ this rig


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
There was another one and someone straight out said it was fugly. Pretty rude if you ask me...

Well technically, i said mine was fugly. Didn't directly imply his was.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4* 
BTW not a shoe rack







actual techbench mass produced.

Yeah.....well..................................*mine* was mass produced _too_


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
That bridge looks cool, but they way I am, I wouldn't think twice about spending the $$ on the required stuff to use that bridge, if 2 fittings and a hose will do the same work, and still look good.

In my situation I almost HAD to go with the block, but i am actually using all three cards. I would have had to use some sort of SLI/x-fire specific fittings not just compressions and tubing since my cards are so close together.

And the block simply seemed the simplest, cheepest, best looking, and safest way to go.







(the friction fit SLI fittings seem super sketch to me)


----------



## CanadianReaper7

Hey guys! I started this build back in September with all WC parts ordered from Dazmode in Canada.







I only recently purchased a Nikon digital camera for a vacation I'm going on, and this was the test of said camera. Sorry if the pictures aren't 100% clear. I think I should invest in a tripod.







NOTE: Bitspower 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Compression fittings DO NOT FIT on the upper GPU block holes, only the bottom. They are just a little too big. Only the 45 degree rotary would fit. This worked out fine as I ordered the perfect amount as I had roughly planned the build according to some other HAF X builds I observed on various WC forums.

FOR MORE PICS if you're interested! http://img46.imageshack.us/g/spc087.jpg/


----------



## SimpleTech

@Kevin,

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1

Buy it, use it, love it.

------

@CanadianReaper7, Love the UV effect.


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 










That looks great!









Also, I should add that the sturdiness the bridge adds is a huge plus in my book. I feel like it's alot of weight that our GPU waterblocks are adding to our cards/boards and when I put the bridge on I noticed the unit (cards+bridge etc) just felt very firm.


----------



## xtremerunnerars

Quote:

when I put the [...] on I noticed the unit [...] just felt very firm.
....that's what she said. Sorry, I had to.

Rig's looking really nice Kevin!


----------



## galaxie83

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CanadianReaper7* 
Hey guys! I started this build back in September with all WC parts ordered from Dazmode in Canada.







I only recently purchased a Nikon digital camera for a vacation I'm going on, and this was the test of said camera. Sorry if the pictures aren't 100% clear. I think I should invest in a tripod.



NOTE: Bitspower 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Compression fittings DO NOT FIT on the upper GPU block holes, only the bottom. They are just a little too big. Only the 45 degree rotary would fit. This worked out fine as I ordered the perfect amount as I had roughly planned the build according to some other HAF X builds I observed on various WC forums.

FOR MORE PICS if you're interested! http://img46.imageshack.us/g/spc087.jpg/

Looks really good. I love the orange tubing. Where did you happen to find it in 1/2" x 3/4"? Frozencpu or performace-pcs dont have it in stock.
I'm wondering if that would look ok with the blue T Virus res.


----------



## Opp47

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

P6T-Deluxe - Bitspower NB/SB + AMOSII&II blocks
intel i7-920 - EK supreme HF liquid cooling block
GTX-280 (x2) - HydroCopper16 block & EK FullCover block
XSPC Res (x2) - one internal + one external
Laing D5 pump (x2)
Swiftech Rad - 120mm
BlackIce GT Rad - 240mm


----------



## fshizl

were did you find such big orange tubing? Id like to really know lol, i had to go with 7/16 id and 5/8 od, because i couldnt find the 1/2 3/4... is it xspc tubing?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
The problem with complexity is that it has more possibility of failure. I like things simple. Also, with how yours work it adds two extra sharp 90 degree turns...


I can see why your sli block is not too complex, the gpu blocks have vertical ports, where as the ek blocks have dual top/bottom horizontal ports, hence why the ek setup needs the "links" to attach to the sli block. Yeah, this was actually a bit more challenging than installing my gpu blocks, or maybe its because I had lots of practice w/ my 4870x2 block







. Im sold on ek stuff so Im sticking w/ their products for a while







. For the short two hours both gpu were up and running I saw maybe about -0.5 to 1.0c difference. Then one of the fermis quit







. I should have rma it when I got it since one of the dvi ports was displaying in all red, a sign something was bad from the beginning, time for rma


----------



## loop0001

Opp47...pics not working


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
@Kevin,

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1

Buy it, use it, love it.

step ahead of you there. 

Just have not done it yet.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xtremerunnerars* 
Rig's looking really nice Kevin!

thanks!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loop0001* 
Opp47...pics not working

^^ this

I cannot add to the list until we actually have pics. ;-)


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xtremerunnerars* 
....that's what she said. Sorry, I had to.

Rig's looking really nice Kevin!

No doubt about that









Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
I can see why your sli block is not too complex, the gpu blocks have vertical ports, where as the ek blocks have dual top/bottom horizontal ports, hence why the ek setup needs the "links" to attach to the sli block. Yeah, this was actually a bit more challenging than installing my gpu blocks, or maybe its because I had lots of practice w/ my 4870x2 block







. Im sold on ek stuff so Im sticking w/ their products for a while







. For the short two hours both gpu were up and running I saw maybe about -0.5 to 1.0c difference. Then one of the fermis quit







. I should have rma it when I got it since one of the dvi ports was displaying in all red, a sign something was bad from the beginning, time for rma









Sorry to hear about your bad card







, hopefully you get a fully functioning card back soon







.


----------



## CanadianReaper7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *galaxie83* 
Looks really good. I love the orange tubing. Where did you happen to find it in 1/2" x 3/4"? Frozencpu or performace-pcs dont have it in stock.
I'm wondering if that would look ok with the blue T Virus res.

From Dazmode here in Canada. It's Feser UV Red Tubing. Thanks for the positive comments!

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=239


----------



## Opp47

i cant figure out why the pix arent working... i can see them when i look at the reply...

any ideas?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Opp47* 
i cant figure out why the pix arent working... any ideas?

right click on the image wherever it is hosted and click the copy image location option.

you are trying to post links to your gmail as pics right now...

you could also try hosting them some place like imageshack


----------



## AdvanSuper

You can't link gmail pictures.


----------



## Opp47

kk.. im on it... can i link them from my album on OCN??


----------



## CanadianReaper7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Opp47* 
kk.. im on it... can i link them from my album on OCN??

sign up for imageshack.us You get like 100 free pics <5mb each.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CanadianReaper7* 
sign up for imageshack.us You get like 100 free pics <5mb each.

I thought it was unlimited?


----------



## CanadianReaper7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I thought it was unlimited?

It's very possible that you're right. I'm a damn noob with that site, I just signed up and only have 27 photos


----------



## AdvanSuper

It's unlimited.


----------



## Opp47

Hope u guys like..

P6T-Deluxe - Bitspower NB/SB + AMOSII&II blocks
intel i7-920 - EK supreme HF liquid cooling block
GTX-280 (x2) - HydroCopper16 block & EK FullCover block
XSPC Res (x2) - one internal + one external
Laing D5 pump (x2)
Swiftech Rad - 120mm
BlackIce GT Rad - 240mm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Some exterior case pix VVVV











--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Case Interior







Some simple wire management VVVV



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
External reservoir VVVV



Internal reservoir VVVV



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Top 240mm radiator (loop1) VVVV



Rear 120mm radiator (loop2) VVVV



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Motherboard pics VVVV













--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GPU pics VVVV









--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finished interior VVVV


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

fyi, it works better if you do it like this using the direct link:










the code for that is this:

Code:



Code:


[CODE]
[IMG]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/4153/067y.jpg[/IMG]

[/CODE]

edit:

OH DEAR GOD!!! i had no idea your pics where that huge! resize them before doing it how i just said..


----------



## spiderm0nkey

LOL kev







Was just going to say that he should leave them at the thumbnail size since they're so freaking big!


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
LOL kev







Was just going to say that he should leave them at the thumbnail size since they're so freaking big!

sry i guess im kinda still a noob with this forum thing...

sooo.. u want me to resize all pix and post using direct link???


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Opp47* 
sry i guess im kinda still a noob with this forum thing...

sooo.. u want me to resize all pix and post using direct link???

no need to change what you have, but in the future that is the best way.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Opp47* 
sry i guess im kinda still a noob with this forum thing...

sooo.. u want me to resize all pix and post using direct link???

As kev said, not this time but definitely in future. A good rule of thumb is to have the longest side of your image around 1000px


----------



## Rona

So... Much... Tubing...


----------



## wermad

Yes, lots of tubing


----------



## CanadianReaper7

Wow, those mosfet/nb make for some ridiculously convoluted tubing setups and tight bends! I wonder what the flow rate is through all of that ;o


----------



## xgeko2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CanadianReaper7* 







Wow, those mosfet/nb make for some ridiculously convoluted tubing setups and tight bends! I wonder what the flow rate is through all of that ;o

ITS OVER 9000


----------



## trippinonprozac

I have changed my loop a little now.

removed the 5850s for a gtx 480 (will be getting a second card in the coming weeks)

Put it under water too.

Appologies for the crappy pics, taken off an iphone.

I will take some decent ones tonight.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
no need to change what you have, but in the future that is the best way.









sweet.. so did i make the list??


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CanadianReaper7* 







Wow, those mosfet/nb make for some ridiculously convoluted tubing setups and tight bends! I wonder what the flow rate is through all of that ;o

havent had a chance to check flow rate yet... hopefully ill get a meter soon and ill post updates..


----------



## ghettosuperstar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ageNtreachery* 
I notice you have your pump installed in an orientation that is shown as "not permitted" in the Laing manual. I've no idea if it can damage your pump or is just not a good idea for performance reasons but you might want to check it out.

This is not the exact manual that came with my pump but the orientation pictures are the same.

Fix this a long time ago but here's a updated picture.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## trippinonprozac

better picture as promised


----------



## SimpleTech

See, with a better camera you went from "eh" to


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac* 
better picture as promised

Good looking rig!


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
See, with a better camera you went from "eh" to









thanks man.

it will all be teared out soon and put in an obsidian. At that stage it will go to dual loops with 2 gtx 480s


----------



## v1ral

Nice looking rig you got there Trip...
wow a lot of ppl are coming from haf 932's to 800D/700Ds.. I soon will be one of them.
haha...
v1ral


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *v1ral* 
Nice looking rig you got there Trip...
wow a lot of ppl are coming from haf 932's to 800D/700Ds.. I soon will be one of them.
haha...
v1ral

If you are water cooling then they are pretty hard to beat.

The HAF just cant fit dual loops without some pretty major modification!


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac* 
If you are water cooling then they are pretty hard to beat.

The HAF just cant fit dual loops without some pretty major modification!

You mean like this? Does this count as major modification?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FannBlade* 
You mean like this? Does this count as major modification?



























that almost makes my Mountain mods case look tiny


----------



## v1ral

I actually was planning on building a pedestal type extension for mine..
however.. it would be too much, we don't have that many fab places here. and if I do find one.. it'll cost a lot for unique designs.
that looks crazy though..
nice stuff.
v1ral


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
that almost makes my Mountain mods case look tiny

Looked alot smaller on paper........That's why I moved switches to lower unit. I was afraid I would need a step ladder to turn it on.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *v1ral* 
I actually was planning on building a pedestal type extension for mine..
however.. it would be too much, we don't have that many fab places here. and if I do find one.. it'll cost a lot for unique designs.
that looks crazy though..
nice stuff.
v1ral

If you look at my build log you will see I made the bottom case from an old 4 drawer file cabinet. So look around and use your imagination.

Thanks


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FannBlade* 
You mean like this? Does this count as major modification?



























I dont have a room large enough to fit a tower like that haha!

should be a pretty awesome mod once done!


----------



## bundymania

Winter is coming


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Winter is coming


















Brrrrrr wheres my jacket!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Winter is coming


















Ice, ice baby!!


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Winter is coming


















May I ask how you achieved white?
Paint or new block top?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Ice, ice baby!!


----------



## nascasho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Winter is coming


















Win.

Man I can't wait to see pics of the rest of your machine, got a weakness for white themes.


----------



## newpc

gone back to intel now. heres a pic with my galaxy s, as soon as i bleeded the loop









i managed to get a evga 3way sli for $150 AUD (yea so cheap







, the guy needed money







)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 









Sexy!


----------



## rzs77

Hey guys, need some advice.
I'm using a ddc 3.25 pump and it's making a lot of humming noise cos i put it at the bottom compartment of my TJ07 (it's touching the casing). How do i overcome this?

I have an idea but i dunnoe whether it would be good to the pump or not.

U know how EK wraps their waterblocks/pumps/ etc in those cloth like foams? can i sue those to cushion my pump and absorb the noise? will it hurt the pump (overheat)?

thanks!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Hey guys, need some advice.
I'm using a ddc 3.25 pump and it's making a lot of humming noise cos i put it at the bottom compartment of my TJ07 (it's touching the casing). How do i overcome this?

I have an idea but i dunnoe whether it would be good to the pump or not.

U know how EK wraps their waterblocks/pumps/ etc in those cloth like foams? can i sue those to cushion my pump and absorb the noise? will it hurt the pump (overheat)?

thanks!

I normally put some soft rubber under mine, I'm currently trying just a peice of tubing to sit under mine.










Excuse the quality, friend has my camera, taken from my HTC Desire.

You shouldnt have anything covering the back of the pump like cloth or foam, as thats where alot of the pumps heat is removed from.

I've seen people mount pumps on Aluminium plates that are connected to teh case to use the case as a big heatsink.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
I normally put some soft rubber under mine, I'm currently trying just a peice of tubing to sit under mine.










Excuse the quality, friend has my camera, taken from my HTC Desire.

You shouldnt have anything covering the back of the pump like cloth or foam, as thats where alot of the pumps heat is removed from.

I've seen people mount pumps on Aluminium plates that are connected to teh case to use the case as a big heatsink.

Hey Will!

I see...So putting a foam type cloth is a no-no?

If i use a plate of aluminum, won't that still make the humming noise? It's kinda noisy. I don't want my pc to sound like a vacuum cleaner


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

the foam will work fine. pretty much anything that is not rigid will work.

they sell foam blocks specifically shaped to the bottom of the pumps that work great.


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Hey guys, need some advice.
I'm using a ddc 3.25 pump and it's making a lot of humming noise cos i put it at the bottom compartment of my TJ07 (it's touching the casing). How do i overcome this?

I have an idea but i dunnoe whether it would be good to the pump or not.

U know how EK wraps their waterblocks/pumps/ etc in those cloth like foams? can i sue those to cushion my pump and absorb the noise? will it hurt the pump (overheat)?

thanks!

cut up a crappy mouse pad for a temporary solution. im sure you could find some sort of rubber or dampener that would work at lowes


----------



## Ross211

Count me in


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Hey guys, need some advice.
I'm using a ddc 3.25 pump and it's making a lot of humming noise cos i put it at the bottom compartment of my TJ07 (it's touching the casing). How do i overcome this?

I have an idea but i dunnoe whether it would be good to the pump or not.

U know how EK wraps their waterblocks/pumps/ etc in those cloth like foams? can i sue those to cushion my pump and absorb the noise? will it hurt the pump (overheat)?

thanks!

I have my MCP655 mounted vertically (inlet facing up) in the bottom of my TJ-07 as well, I just folded over a sheet of paper towel to about 3"x3" and put it under the pump. Seems to be be pretty silent compared to the fans.


----------



## JE Nightmare

got the koolance block and some memsinks installed.


----------



## fastsite

mm thats sexy JE are you still using a single 120 even with that gpu in there?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


mm thats sexy JE are you still using a single 120 even with that gpu in there?


sorta lol, i bough an rs240 for dirt cheap and threw that in the loop. my new loop order is pump/res>240>cpu>120>gpu>res/pump. takes less space and tubing that way.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey everyone! I get to use the word UPDATED for something other than the norm for this thread!

I just updated my worklog, so go check it out!









http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...l#post11062137


----------



## SniperXX

Can you add this to my name? I am number 104 on the list.

Well I picked up a H70 for my i7 920 folding rig. I wanted to give it a try and for $85 I figured why not. With the cpu at 4Ghz with 1.31v it loads @ 70C tops with a room temp about 70F (sorry too tired to do the conversion). Its all in an Antec P180 mini.


----------



## Zamoldac

New rig upddate









EK-FCR600 - CF red top (2900XT DDR3) and maintenance changes : clearFlex clear tubbing, feser 1 blue Uv coolant.


----------



## mrtomek

try to move around more when taking photos


----------



## Zamoldac

Actually its the camera's fault... crappy benQ







.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


May I ask how you achieved white?
Paint or new block top?


I painted the Backplate, Screws and Bracket - the white Top comes from EK

Here i have a brandnew Reservoir from the Koolance Guys. You can mount 1 or 2 pumps at this solid Res.


----------



## strezz

Finally have my rig on water. I know its a big mess right now, im buying a CM 690 advance soon so there's really no need for me to tidy things up.


































EK-Supreme LT
XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25â€ Bay Reservoir Pump
MCR220 Quiet Power Series Dual 120 mm - Black
PrimoFlex Pro LRT Clear Tubing -1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD


----------



## hy897t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I painted the Backplate, Screws and Bracket - the white Top comes from EK

Here i have a brandnew Reservoir from the Koolance Guys. You can mount 1 or 2 pumps at this solid Res.


Hey how is that new res? There was another discussion about it here on this site. I am interested in maybe picking it up.


----------



## bundymania

Build Quality and Idea behind this product is imo ok and it looks more stable/solid than the XSPC Acrylic Reservoirs, but hey, this Ueber Res. costs 120 $ ItÂ´s like a Mercedes in the Reservoir Section


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


sorta lol, i bough an rs240 for dirt cheap and threw that in the loop. my new loop order is pump/res>240>cpu>120>gpu>res/pump. takes less space and tubing that way.


I just bought a Black Ice Xtreme II a few weeks ago my self


----------



## souljar

Heres mine







my camera blows.

Some sweet rigs on here, nice one. Good to look at.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SniperXX* 
Can you add this to my name? I am number 104 on the list.

Well I picked up a H70 for my i7 920 folding rig. I wanted to give it a try and for $85 I figured why not. With the cpu at 4Ghz with 1.31v it loads @ 70C tops with a room temp about 70F (sorry too tired to do the conversion). Its all in an Antec P180 mini.

Absolutely love it.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zamoldac* 
New rig upddate









EK-FCR600 - CF red top (2900XT DDR3) and maintenance changes : clearFlex clear tubbing, feser 1 blue Uv coolant.

Damn dude, some better pics will rock! Colors look great together.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
I painted the Backplate, Screws and Bracket - the white Top comes from EK

Here i have a brandnew Reservoir from the Koolance Guys. You can mount 1 or 2 pumps at this solid Res.
















That looks great!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## binormalkilla

Here are some pics of my old loop. It's been running strong for about 2.5 years. The Tygon is getting quite foggy....even though I drain it every 4 months or so.

I recently replaced all of the ugly Yate Loon blue fans (snipped the LEDs, too bright) with some black Yate Loons. They were on sale at performancepcs.....

I've been quite impressed with this setup though. I've never had any real problems with it. Hopefully the pump will keep going strong.










I would love to build a new rig, but I told myself that I'm going to wait until I complete my education. When I graduate I am going to build the nastiest watercooling beast....









Part list:

Code:


Code:


Dtek Fuzion nozzled
XSPC Delrin full-block MCP655
Danger Den Universal NB block with X38 acrylic top
Hardware Labs Black Ice 480GTX 
8 Yate Loon Medium CFM 120mm fans
EK Multioption 250 Reservoir


----------



## xgeko2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*


Here are some pics of my old loop. It's been running strong for about 2.5 years. The Tygon is getting quite foggy....even though I drain it every 4 months or so.

I recently replaced all of the ugly Yate Loon blue fans (snipped the LEDs, too bright) with some black Yate Loons. They were on sale at performancepcs.....

I've been quite impressed with this setup though. I've never had any real problems with it. Hopefully the pump will keep going strong.










I would love to build a new rig, but I told myself that I'm going to wait until I complete my education. When I graduate I am going to build the nastiest watercooling beast....










Nice loop. Hey your from arkansas? I used to live in Springdale! You ever go to a nwalan or a Fortsmith lan?


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xgeko2*


Nice loop. Hey your from arkansas? I used to live in Springdale! You ever go to a nwalan or a Fortsmith lan?


Hey that's cool, that part of the state is beautiful. I actually set up a flower shop's network a few years ago....I can't remember the name of the shop, but it was in Springdale.

I'm from North Little Rock, but I'm in Jonesboro ATM because I'm going to ASU. Jonesboro freaking sucks, but I met my wife here so I guess it evens out.









I've never been to any of those lans (any any lan in general







)

Also my wife is from Tampa Bay area (Zephyr Hills to be exact).

EDIT:

I updated my other post to reflect my parts....it seems my original post was lost in the spreadsheet.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

That was quick!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *binormalkilla* 
That was quick!
















by the way, your old link was messed up, if you can find it i will add it back to the list.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
by the way, your old link was messed up, if you can find it i will add it back to the list.

NP, I have no idea where it is......I updated my post a few posts up with the info. You can use that one. Thanks


----------



## fastsite

I should have posted this a few weeks back but here's my BIX II! I also got rid of the t-line







yes yes I know to many 90s I'm gonna get rid of them soon


----------



## binormalkilla

Temps while compiling chromium-dev. All 4 core are at %100...I have cflags set to punish the CPU. Vcore is at 1.496V in BIOS, though the sensor is reading 1.51V in Linux. These are pretty average temps for me when maxed out. I may need to reseat the thermal paste sometime...it hasn't been reseated in at least a year.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

the foam will work fine. pretty much anything that is not rigid will work.

they sell foam blocks specifically shaped to the bottom of the pumps that work great.

I still have the foam at the bottom of my pump. Pc's been running for almost 5 days now and no problems so far. I really hope the pump doesn't burn from the trapped heat due to the foam









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnoob1* 
cut up a crappy mouse pad for a temporary solution. im sure you could find some sort of rubber or dampener that would work at lowes

Thank you for the suggestion! Thinking of buying a BIG O Ring and replacing the foam underneath. You think that would work?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
I have my MCP655 mounted vertically (inlet facing up) in the bottom of my TJ-07 as well, I just folded over a sheet of paper towel to about 3"x3" and put it under the pump. Seems to be be pretty silent compared to the fans.

For me, it's MUCH more silent then before I put the foam there. Before this my PC was literally a vaccum cleaner. I could hear it hum even from inside my room with doors closed









So how long has yours been running? did u try and feel the pump (whether it was hotter then usual?)

I like the foam, it's cheap, extremely easy to put under the pump and effectively removes the humming, now all i can hear are my fans. but i'm scared my pump will die


----------



## JorundJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *binormalkilla* 
Temps while compiling chromium-dev. All 4 core are at %100...I have cflags set to punish the CPU. Vcore is at 1.496V in BIOS, though the sensor is reading 1.51V in Linux. These are pretty average temps for me when maxed out. I may need to reseat the thermal paste sometime...it hasn't been reseated in at least a year.


















Excuse me, but what for system monitor is this? It looks quite nice.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
I still have the foam at the bottom of my pump. Pc's been running for almost 5 days now and no problems so far. I really hope the pump doesn't burn from the trapped heat due to the foam









haha, it will be fine.









the pumps come with a rubber foam block to put under them. they are designed for it.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

haha, it will be fine.









the pumps come with a rubber foam block to put under them. they are designed for it.









You'll have to excuse my noob-ness but what is a rubber foam block?










That's my pump...just to be clear and to avoid misunderstandings


----------



## kevingreenbmx

the square thing with the adhesive tape on both sides in this picture. the MCP3xx pumps should all come with one. it sticks to the bottom of the pump and is just a dense foam that absorbs vibration.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JorundJ* 
Excuse me, but what for system monitor is this? It looks quite nice.









That is just the one build into KDE called ksysguard. You can customize it with whatever style graph you want. You just set the number of columns that you want, then select the sensor that you want, click and drag to the plot area, then specify what style of graph you want (line, bar, etc.)
Here are some of the sensors that I have available......pretty much anything you could ever want. Some sensor may need to be probed using a program called lm_sensors, simply by running this in a terminal and answering the prompts (yes on all of them typically):

Code:



Code:


sudo sensors

Hardware monitoring in Linux is srs business


















Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
You'll have to excuse my noob-ness but what is a rubber foam block?










That's my pump...just to be clear and to avoid misunderstandings









I got a little gel square with mine.....you could probably find something comparable in a 3M product at a larger hardware store like Ace hardware.....or possibly at Hobby Lobby.

Mine has server me well, keeping the pump from creating any rattling noise. It has collected a disgusting amount of dust over the years though


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *binormalkilla* 
I'm from North Little Rock, but I'm in Jonesboro ATM because I'm going to ASU.

Not to far from ya over in Memphis, TN


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rona* 
Not to far from ya over in Memphis, TN









That's right! I may be coming to Memphis to see Dane cook...he's coming to the FedEx forum sometime next month.


----------



## cRaZyEddie187

***UPDATE***

Adding Graphics cards to the loop and used compression fittings instead of barbs








[br]








[br]








[br]


----------



## binormalkilla

That looks awesome....I wish I could get my sleeving neat like that.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cRaZyEddie187* 
***UPDATE***

Adding Graphics cards to the loop and used compression fittings instead of barbs








[br]

snip[br]

I love this... I wish i had the cash for comps. I hope mine turns out close


----------



## Chicken Patty

@crazyeddie,

That looks amazing bro.


----------



## Orestes

case temps were getting a bit high so I decided to throw a fan down in the bottom and move the pump...I just wish the LED did a bit more from the new fan in the bottom...temps improved very slightly so I might have to dig out the 140 that comes stock on the divide to get a little more airflow...but the pump will be blocking a lot of it...not really sure how I'm going to go about fixing the airflow on this.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Finally received the remainder of my parts this afternoon, cleaned up wiring, and finished the build. Sorry about the pic quality. Just need to find an aluminum faceplate for my bluray drive that isn't lian-li since those won't fit.


IMG_0507


IMG_0511


IMG_0512


IMG_0517


----------



## loop0001

updated

nnnaaaahhh im kiddin i cant do that








nice build man!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated (for real







)


----------



## binormalkilla

fat italian stallion..........man that case is sick! Mountain Mod?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *binormalkilla* 
fat italian stallion..........man that case is sick! Mountain Mod?

Mountain mods it is! Thanks for the compliment. Taken a while to get it together. A few aesthetics left like 480 backplates, but that's all for now. I'm looking to add a MM pedestal with two more sr1 360s, but that'll have to wait until around xmas. Chasing that elusive 5c delta along with "silence". Sad thing is that the rad grills and feet cost more than the case itself. /fail


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
Mountain mods it is! Thanks for the compliment. Taken a while to get it together. A few aesthetics left like 480 backplates, but that's all for now. I'm looking to add a MM pedestal with two more sr1 360s, but that'll have to wait until around xmas. Chasing that elusive 5c delta along with "silence". Sad thing is that the rad grills and feet cost more than the case itself. /fail

I've always liked Mountain Mods cases. There is something to be said about having a case that has all the room you could ever want....I just think about all of the hard drives I could cram in there









My case right now houses 4 SATA drives plus the DVD drive, and obviously the rest of my WC gear. I have an external HDD enclosure that houses the rest of my RAID5 array, but it would be nice to have everything inside my case since the airflow is _way_ better. These Icydock enclosures are pretty, but the fans suck on them. I replaced the fan on it, but it's a puny little 80mm. I plan on modding it sometime with a 120mm or 2.

Icydock enclosure with 4*500GB WD Caviar RAID5 array (one drive is in the tower)









GTX480









I didn't really get very fancy when I soldered all of the fans because I won't be looking at the back very often. Well there's that and the fact that I didn't have enough nylon sleeving and shrink wrap.

My next WC build will have a proper fan controller and everything sleeved. That will be some time though.....


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *binormalkilla* 
I've always liked Mountain Mods cases. There is something to be said about having a case that has all the room you could ever want....I just think about all of the hard drives I could cram in there










I actually have the problem of not enough space. I wish I had gone with the ascension instead of the UFO, but didn't want to front the extra $150 right then. Behind the mobo is pretty cramped for space with all of the wc stuff and the psu back there. I got the case and was like " damn this is huge" then an hour later it felt tiny. Mountain mods is always a great choice for a case. The quality of top notch and there is an infinite amount of compinations for panels. Overall I will always buy mountain mods cases if I have the room for it


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
I actually have the problem of not enough space. I wish I had gone with the ascension instead of the UFO, but didn't want to front the extra $150 right then. Behind the mobo is pretty cramped for space with all of the wc stuff and the psu back there. I got the case and was like " damn this is huge" then an hour later it felt tiny. Mountain mods is always a great choice for a case. The quality of top notch and there is an infinite amount of compinations for panels. Overall I will always buy mountain mods cases if I have the room for it

I was the same thing with my TT Armor (it's getting old...). I thought 'man, there is no way I'll fill this!'.

I ate those words..........


----------



## Striker36

hey guys. finally got around to stuffing my loop into my scout







what do you guys think?



















please ignore the lower 470s power cables... thats just temporary till i finish sleeving that set... i needed my computer....


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Well well well, did some updates, just added the second GPU block, same as first block, nickel+plexi


----------



## Juggalo23451




----------



## Chicken Patty

That MM case in the last page and then the HAF of EVGA just totally made my pants get tight....

...what?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
That MM case in the last page and then the HAF of EVGA just totally made my pants get tight....

...what?









just wait, that MM ufo will soon be much bigger. Adding a pedestal and two more sr1 360s in about a month


----------



## cRaZyEddie187

@ binormalkilla, kidwolf909, chickenpatty... I appreciate the comments guys thanks

Some more shots


----------



## kevingreenbmx

all up to date.


----------



## mav2000

Hey 88EVGAFTW, how do you fill your loop, with the top barb already connected on your res. BTW awesome build and am doing one in an HAF X soon as wel.


----------



## eppopipe

Update!


----------



## [seandotcom]

hey guys i'm leak testing my first loop as we speak!

pics up soon!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eppopipe* 
Update!









looks good, I love ufos! cable management was harder than I thought, but eventually worked out well. Glad I got the SR2 mobo tray. Why the block of acrylic tho? My cards seen to be in there quite solid.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

New GTX480 Fullcover GPU Waterblock from bavarian Company Innovatek. As always, build quality is superb, but the price........























































http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...c-GTX-480.html


----------



## fshizl

wow talk about the price.... but holy hell full cover indeed...


----------



## EditeD

Woot page 500! Must post for awesomeness.

Some shots of my Striker II Extreme w/AquaComputer Cuplex-kit before it died.. R.I.P, great MB.
























Needed cleaning. Feser One, ofcourse.








<3








Waiting for some income, so I can get my desktop back up and running


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fang_laluna

current setup, sorry for crappy quality


----------



## loki_reborn

Hi guys.

I should be able to join this club in the new year.

I want to get the lot under water and after weighing up the kit options out there I decided to go completely custom.

So over christmas I will be gathering all the bits and hopefully have it all running by the new year. The bits will be:

EK waterblocks for CPU, GPU, NB, SB & Mosfet
MCP655 Pump
Swiftech micro resevoir
Phobya G-changer 360mm Radiator
CoolerMaster sickleflow fans in push/pull
1/2 by 3/4 Tygon tubing
Primochill coolant
Fans on a Nesteq MaxZero 8ch controller

I will be putting it onto this:
1055T @ 3710Mhz
Cheapy PC World HSF
ASUS M4A79 Deluxe
4x2GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR2-800
ASUS HD5870
KINGWIN MACH1 800W PSU

Settings-
265 - FSB
2650 - NB
2000 - HT

883 - RAM DIVIDER
4-4-4-12-3(5)-24-5-3 2T - RAM TIMINGS

1.4500 - CPU VOLTAGE
1.3250 - CPU/NB VOLTAGE
2.0600 - RAM VOLTAGE
1.2400 - NB VOLTAGE

How does that layout sound?


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loki_reborn* 
Hi guys.

I should be able to join this club in the new year.

I want to get the lot under water and after weighing up the kit options out there I decided to go completely custom.

So over christmas I will be gathering all the bits and hopefully have it all running by the new year. The bits will be:

EK waterblocks for CPU, GPU, NB, SB & Mosfet
MCP655 Pump
Swiftech micro resevoir
Phobya G-changer 360mm Radiator
CoolerMaster sickleflow fans in push/pull
1/2 by 3/4 Tygon tubing
Primochill coolant
Fans on a Nesteq MaxZero 8ch controller

I will be putting it onto this:
1055T @ 3710Mhz
Cheapy PC World HSF
ASUS M4A79 Deluxe
4x2GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR2-800
ASUS HD5870
KINGWIN MACH1 800W PSU

Settings-
265 - FSB
2650 - NB
2000 - HT

883 - RAM DIVIDER
4-4-4-12-3(5)-24-5-3 2T - RAM TIMINGS

1.4500 - CPU VOLTAGE
1.3250 - CPU/NB VOLTAGE
2.0600 - RAM VOLTAGE
1.2400 - NB VOLTAGE

How does that layout sound?

I would get a copper heatsink for your SB and don't bother about watercooling. Same for your mosfets. They are designed to run at a very high temp, so water cooling them will add a lot of heat to your loop. I have a fan blowing over mine (and the memory).


----------



## ssgwright

update:


----------



## airplaneman

ssg: that looks sick, what lighting are you using?


----------



## NrGx

XSPC Rasa
Black Ice GT Stealth 240
X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump
Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2 ID (3)
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black High Flow 1/2 Compression Fitting (6)
D12SL-12 Yate Loon 1300RPM (2)
OCZ Freeze

My first loop







Going to stuff it all in a CM 690 II.


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fang_laluna* 









Very nice! I am impressed with the size of tubing and how many connections you made with the blocks you chose. You made it look very neat indeed.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ssgwright* 
update:

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC04785-1.jpg
http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC04790-1.jpg

white looks so awesome!


----------



## fang_laluna

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rona* 
Very nice! I am impressed with the size of tubing and how many connections you made with the blocks you chose. You made it look very neat indeed.










Thanks







I'm planning to change it this christmas, maybe a new case.


----------



## ssgwright

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
ssg: that looks sick, what lighting are you using?

I have 1 blue and 1 UV cathode and that's it. I evened out the lighting by using the blue pci fan there in the bottom slot and on top I have a 480 rad with a bright blue led fan on the very back just near the drive bays


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Adrienspawn

Just finished a few hours ago. Temps are great. Tubing was a female dog.

1850rpm Gentle Typhoons all around. Best fans ever. No clamps, all natural.

Res/pump -> 320 rad -> Apogee GTZ -> 120 rad -> GTX470


----------



## Warfox101

Hi fellas Here is my rig, I planed on buying a simple water cooling upgrade. But we all know that our rigs are never really finished there is always something more to add. This is what i ended up with so far.

All Koolance

Pump is the PmP 450s Koolance triple 120 rad and koolance double 140 rad
kolance cpu block is cpu350 along with the CHC122 and CHC 125. VRM blocks are also koolance. case is as we all know is the Corsair 800D. ENJOY THE PICS and video on youtube


You Tube


----------



## gdawg33

that is some small tubing.

Sent from my computer using the internet


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
Sent from my computer using the internet


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Warfox101* 
Hi fellas Here is my rig, I planed on buying a simple water cooling upgrade. But we all know that our rigs are never really finished there is always something more to add. This is what i ended up with so far.

All Koolance

Pump is the PmP 450s Koolance triple 120 rad and koolance double 140 rad
kolance cpu block is cpu350 along with the CHC122 and CHC 125. VRM blocks are also koolance. case is as we all know is the Corsair 800D. ENJOY THE PICS and video on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIa3KUM4eMQ




























looks good man, I'm used a lot of the same blocks in my build on p497, sucks that the largest od tubing u can use on the mvr-40 mosfet blocks is 1/2 if you are using compression fittings. I've never been a fan of huge tubes tho. Flowrate is nearly the same and you can actually bend the tubing however you need it to bend


----------



## ssgwright

why do you have your inlet to the res on top?


----------



## whipple16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Warfox101* 
Hi fellas Here is my rig, I planed on buying a simple water cooling upgrade. But we all know that our rigs are never really finished there is always something more to add. This is what i ended up with so far.

All Koolance

Pump is the PmP 450s Koolance triple 120 rad and koolance double 140 rad
kolance cpu block is cpu350 along with the CHC122 and CHC 125. VRM blocks are also koolance. case is as we all know is the Corsair 800D. ENJOY THE PICS and video on youtube

looks really good. i really want to add a res like that in my new build but not sure if its possible since i have the xspc res/pump combo.

could i just add the res into the loop or would i still need a second pump since the water would have to get pushed all the way back up to the rad??

my new build in the next post


----------



## whipple16




----------



## armada10

updated my tubing with some good 'ol home depot vinyl.


----------



## [seandotcom]

first loop


----------



## Kinru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]*











first loop










oooo a 600t. Haven't seen one of these watercooled yet. Would you be able to fit a thicker radiator at the top? Like an RX or SR1? Also any other places you could fit a second radiator internally?


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Warfox101* 









With the water dropping into the res like this is it not creating extra air bubbles in the loop? It looks like it is to me but I could be crazy


----------



## [seandotcom]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kinru*


oooo a 600t. Haven't seen one of these watercooled yet. Would you be able to fit a thicker radiator at the top? Like an RX or SR1? Also any other places you could fit a second radiator internally?


no, that radiator is pretty much as thick as it can get, unfortunately. and i don't think there's any other spots, but i'm not all that creative.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Nice looking rig bro. I personally love Koolance.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Warfox101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ssgwright*


why do you have your inlet to the res on top?


Well it just worked out that way i guess, so long as I'm getting fresh coolant to the CPU from the rad I'm happy. I would love to hear any suggestions on how to route the loop. I have used ID 10mm OD (3/8") tubing since Ive used water cooling. And to switch over to 1/2 barbs would cost me around $100. Also I'm getting around mid to low 60's with my 920 at 4.0GHz under full load. so switching over to 1/2 tubing did not seem worth the money or trouble.Thanks for your replies guys.


----------



## NrGx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whipple16* 









Hi quick question: how hard was it to mod the grill on the top? I'm an absolute noob when it comes to modding.


----------



## ntuason

Very nice rigs! Mines is in my sig under 'System pictures'


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DorkSterr* 
Very nice rigs! Mines is in my sig under 'System pictures'

I canot add you to the list until you post pictures here.


----------



## whipple16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NrGx* 
Hi quick question: how hard was it to mod the grill on the top? I'm an absolute noob when it comes to modding.

Just tape up the top (blue painters tape works good). Draw your template on the tape and start cutting. A jig saw will work best but I used a 3 inch cutting wheel and it turned out perfect. Then take your time with a file to get the rounded edges nice and the straight sides nice. Touch up paint or black sharpie to get the color back along the cut edge and your done. Took me about a hour to do both holes in the top of my case

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## [CyGnus]

New VGA block:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

just dropping another not so subtle hint that you should check out by build log.


















do it now. and subscribe.


----------



## Liighthead

kevin.....
thats... thats.... *subed







*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
 kevin.....
thats... thats.... *subed







*

haha, thanks.


----------



## Zmanster

Please add me when you get the opportunity. Below are pics of my WCing set up. Specifics are in my sig.

I didn't think my build through that well so I was not able to install the 240 rad internally, but my temps are JUST FINE







!!

Thanks
PS: Pics were taken right after completion of the build. The bubbles you see in the pics are all gone.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kellygtp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


just dropping another not so subtle hint that you should check out by build log.


















do it now. and subscribe.










I really like that man! very nice work!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kellygtp*


I really like that man! very nice work!


thanks!


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


thanks!


updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
updated


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
just dropping another not so subtle hint that you should check out by build log.









do it now. and subscribe.









Ok ok ok I subed!!!

Now you have to sub mine!


----------



## Chicken Patty

@ Kevin

Can I subscribed again?







Great job bro!


----------



## airplaneman

Kev, is that aluminum or acrylic? How are you cutting that stuff?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Kev, is that aluminum or acrylic? How are you cutting that stuff?

Visit his log here, it has tons of pics and probably everything you want to know.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Visit his log here, it has tons of pics and probably everything you want to know.









Ah very true, I forgot I had his log opened in another tab :|.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
@ Kevin

Can I subscribed again?







Great job bro!

haha, you can un-sub and re-sub, but that seems unneeded.









thanks!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Kev, is that aluminum or acrylic? How are you cutting that stuff?

It is 1 mm black anodized aluminum. I use a recipricating power jigsaw to cut it, and for the most part I do it freehanded.

There are more pictures and explanations in my worklog. ;-) (link in sig)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Visit his log here, it has tons of pics and probably everything you want to know.









haha, beat me to it... Thanks again!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Ah very true, I forgot I had his log opened in another tab :|.

haha, OCN tends to spread and multiply in my browser, you too?

thanks for checking it out as well.









subscribe for maximum awesome.


----------



## Chicken Patty

maximum awesometasticness...

...****, did I just make a new word?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, OCN tends to spread and multiply in my browser, you too?

Same here! I no longer do the e-mail notification thing. Every morning I open up my subscribed threads list and open up all the ones I like that have new posts. I usually have about 8 tabs open haha.


----------



## Triangle

dont have photos at the moment.

System:

EK Supreme HF Full Copper CPU Block

XSPC X20 750 Pump/Res Combo

HWlabs Black Ice Pro III X-Flow


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


haha, you can un-sub and re-sub, but that seems unneeded.









thanks!

It is 1 mm black anodized aluminum. I use a recipricating power jigsaw to cut it, and for the most part I do it freehanded.

There are more pictures and explanations in my worklog. ;-) (link in sig)

haha, beat me to it... Thanks again!









haha, OCN tends to spread and multiply in my browser, you too?

thanks for checking it out as well.









subscribe for maximum awesome.










Yup, same here







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Same here! I no longer do the e-mail notification thing. Every morning I open up my subscribed threads list and open up all the ones I like that have new posts. I usually have about 8 tabs open haha.


Haha I do the same thing..except 3-4 times a day


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *airplaneman*


Haha I do the same thing..except 3-4 times a day










30-40 times a day for me... (at least on school days when I should be being productive)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *airplaneman*


Haha I do the same thing..except 3-4 times a day










Me too







Once in the morning, once or twice while at my course, once right after I get home and then another couple of times before I go to bed at night.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Same here! I no longer do the e-mail notification thing. Every morning I open up my subscribed threads list and open up all the ones I like that have new posts. I usually have about 8 tabs open haha.


+1 for User CP








I used email notification for each subscribed thread, but 40 emails from ocn in the morning is not funny








I still have some email subs for important threads.
And I check once in the morning, 3 times at work and in the evening.


----------



## Liighthead

haha yeah i got 4k + unread emails from ocn >.< wait 6k now i think idk lol...

hotmail + folder + jam everything todo with ocn in folder =







i can find other emails now haha


----------



## mrtomek

Changed my loop

Before









After


----------



## kade.sirin

very very clean.

--

Well here goes mine:

SMC Thermo-Con INR-244-639
Apogee GT
Koolance 240mm Reservoir
Tygon R-3603 3/8" ID


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kade.sirin* 
very very clean.

--

Well here goes mine:

SMC Thermo-Con INR-244-639
Apogee GT
Koolance 240mm Reservoir
Tygon R-3603 3/8" ID
















































what ever happened to cable management? There must be no airflow in for other components


----------



## kade.sirin

Oh, the cables from the rosewill PSU are WAYYY too long for my case, though you can't see it at that angle, the cables are zip-tied to the umm.. outside half of the case, above the rails, there is enough room below them for airflow.. that's the best I can do at the moment, until I have time to shorten the cables or I get a bigger case.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

is that a chiller or a radbox?

if it is a chiller what is it?


----------



## kade.sirin

Tis a chiller,

SMC Thermo-Con INR-244-639, apparently TEC based, and can be set to 4 C. (Its at 18.5 right now)


----------



## Orestes

trying some new stuff out...not sure if I wanna use the red tubing or if i'll use red coolant...fermi cards get kinda hot and I can only imagine what red coolant would do to the inside of a gpu block on one of those. Swapped out the 1850rpm GTs for the xigmatek white LEDs. Temps are slightly higher but it -SHOULD- be getting cold here soon, although the weather has been all over the place (high 70s to mid 80s Fahrenheit this past week -____-). When it gets cooler i'll be putting the case on an open window sil so the rad can suck in some nice chilly air.


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
trying some new stuff out...not sure if I wanna use the red tubing or if i'll use red coolant...fermi cards get kinda hot and I can only imagine what red coolant would do to the inside of a gpu block on one of those. Swapped out the 1850rpm GTs for the xigmatek white LEDs. Temps are slightly higher but it -SHOULD- be getting cold here soon, although the weather has been all over the place (high 70s to mid 80s Fahrenheit this past week -____-). When it gets cooler i'll be putting the case on an open window sil so the rad can suck in some nice chilly air.

Do you get air bubbles from you having your inlet on the top of the res? I only ask because I did and I had to mod my res for it to not have that problem.


----------



## [CyGnus]

why you need 3 tubes in the RES?


----------



## Orestes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS* 
Do you get air bubbles from you having your inlet on the top of the res? I only ask because I did and I had to mod my res for it to not have that problem.


theres a tube that runs down from the top of the res that goes underneath the waterline so the water wont splash into the res and make any airbubbles.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[CyGnus*
] why you need 3 tubes in the RES?

The red tube is the fill-port


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## [CyGnus]

So thats it hehehe i was wondering what the hell was it







nice job it looks good


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I had an inlet at the top of my res once and never had any problems.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

yea, inlets at the top of res's is fine. If it was an issue then CD's waterfall res's would destroy people's loops.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yea, inlets at the top of res's is fine. If it was an issue then CD's waterfall res's would destroy people's loops. 

Haha indeed


----------



## kevingreenbmx

what do you call a cross between a rose and a pumpkin?










I just carved it.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Kevin, that pumpkin looks a little hot...I think you need to cool it with some water!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
Kevin, that pumpkin looks a little hot...I think you need to cool it with some water!

nah, all that type of effort went into classy today.









update incoming to my worklog in a couple minutes.


----------



## [CyGnus]

guys i have 2x240Rads for vga and CPU will i benefit something if i add a 3rd 240 rad?


----------



## xazraelx1981

Swiftech MCP350â„¢
XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir
Black IceÂ® GT Stealth 240
PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing
Scythe "SLIP STREAM SLIM" 120 x 12mm Fan - Medium Speed
EK-Supreme HF High Flow - Highest Performance CPU Water Block - Copper/Plexi


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xazraelx1981* 
Swiftech MCP350â„¢
XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir
Black IceÂ® GT Stealth 240
PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing
Scythe "SLIP STREAM SLIM" 120 x 12mm Fan - Medium Speed
EK-Supreme HF High Flow - Highest Performance CPU Water Block - Copper/Plexi










































Very nice setup and theme you got there. I love that PSU


----------



## [CyGnus]

Those slim fans are not the best for a WC setup... you have better looking fittings like bitspower or phobya, and black tubbing would be sweet in there.


----------



## ecaftermath

if i add a drain line on the outtake just on top of the pump, would it affect the flow?


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ecaftermath*


if i add a drain line on the outtake just on top of the pump, would it affect the flow?


it would but the question is would it be significant. I personally have my drain on my Res as I think most do.


----------



## oliverw92

If the drain was tapped and full of coolant it would not affect the flow at all.


----------



## FannBlade

Almost time to join.
Just a preview of whats to come. This is my fist WC build. I will be using XSPC 360 and a swiftech 240 (for now). 655 pump with EK rev.2 top,Apogee XT, (2) EK 470 blocks,etc.


----------



## xazraelx1981

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M1nUrThr3t*


Very nice setup and theme you got there. I love that PSU


Thanks!!!! Yea the slim fans are going>> Im gonna get some Yate loon's. Just worried about noise with 80CFM 120's


----------



## [CyGnus]

Get gentle Typhons and the noise is gone or some SilenX Ixtrema Pro series 120 they have 72CFM at 14DBA


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*


Get gentle Typhons


Good luck on that! I would eat worms for 6 GT 1850's

No one has them in stock!


----------



## wermad

imma get flack for this, but I dont see the hoopla over these Scythe Gentle Typhoons, their max cfm fan does ~57-58 and they are pricey. Imma just get some medium speed yates (~70 cfm) and hook it up to a controller, has worked great to kill the noise, temps are a tad bit more, I crank up the fans to full speed when Im wearing my headphones or blasting my speakers.

btw, Im changing my case







and thus my wc setup too.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


imma get flack for this, but I dont see the hoopla over these Scythe Gentle Typhoons, their max cfm fan does ~57-58 and they are pricey. Imma just get some medium speed yates (~70 cfm) and hook it up to a controller, has worked great to kill the noise, temps are a tad bit more, I crank up the fans to full speed when Im wearing my headphones or blasting my speakers.

btw, Im changing my case







and thus my wc setup too.


In most scenarios, it's all about static pressure for radiators or heatsinks. And that is where the GTs shine.


----------



## wermad

yeah, that whole thing about static pressure, which is still quite confusing, is that efficiency of airflow (ie positive vs negative pressure) or something? all I know is that my yates do their job and they are inexpensive.


----------



## JE Nightmare

the amount of force behind the air pushing it through a dense area... i believe.


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


In most scenarios, it's all about static pressure for radiators or heatsinks. And that is where the GTs shine.


An AP-15 has 2.04 mmH2O of static pressure which is good for a 25mm fan. They are known for being the quietest fans at their performance range. That being said they aren't the end all to radiator fans. People have different tolerances for noise and can stand a little more noise for more performance.

I encourage people look at the stickies like Martin's tests. He is going to come out with a round 6 which will show some more accurate CFM values.


----------



## bundymania

Test in Progress


----------



## whood886

wow i really love that block, wish gpu's were upside down so you could actually see them.


----------



## Jelah

Got a little update coming







Not sure about that fluid though, thought i would try it, cause i cant find pt nuke anywhere


----------



## [CyGnus]

Use distilled water and a biocide its better than that primochill stuff....


----------



## Seeing Red

Silver also works, e.g. silver fittings, silver strips (kill coils), or silver jewelry.


----------



## ecaftermath

instead of adding a drainline, i'm deciding to add 2 QDC between the GPU and the RES and the second one between PUMP intake and the RES.

what do you guys think?

and might be changing all the barbs into compression.

I've totalled everything together with the 2x QDC, 5x straight, 3x 45 degree and 2x 90 degree angle compression fittings with shipping and tax would be around $203

=O damn why are they so expensive! lol


----------



## wermad

a drain line would work better and installing it a low point to help everything drain easier. I have the koolance qdc compression type. I've seen some builds where they added threaded qdc and used the counterpart compression type. I dumped that idea since the fittings are very bulky (koolance) for the main components, I might add some to the res, pump, and rad. If your going w/ koolance, their VLN3 is the best, and the one that offers g1/4 threads and tested the best. I got the VL4 compression for 1/2x3/4 and there is a bit of drip after disconnecting, but not too much. good luck


----------



## Morizuno

could someone pm me what color tubing i should use w/ this motherboard?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813135267

Black or white? Case is going to be a simple lian li w/ a black interior. Going to put black ek waterblocks on the components.

I'm also going to add black + white cable sleeving, and these white led fans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233045


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
could someone pm me what color tubing i should use w/ this motherboard?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813135267

Black or white? Case is going to be a simple lian li w/ a black interior. Going to put black ek waterblocks on the components.

I'm also going to add black + white cable sleeving, and these white led fans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233045

Use white tubing,
It looks better to Contrast from all the Black and it matches the Mobo too


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
could someone pm me what color tubing i should use w/ this motherboard?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813135267

Black or white? Case is going to be a simple lian li w/ a black interior. Going to put black ek waterblocks on the components.

I'm also going to add black + white cable sleeving, and these white led fans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233045

Thats a nice looking board. I agree on white tubing.


----------



## wermad

white tubing goes awesome w/ black compression fittings


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
could someone pm me what color tubing i should use w/ this motherboard?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813135267

Black or white? Case is going to be a simple lian li w/ a black interior. Going to put black ek waterblocks on the components.

I'm also going to add black + white cable sleeving, and these white led fans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233045

wow... $299 for a p55 board!?!? I'd just go x58 instead.


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ecaftermath*


instead of adding a drainline, i'm deciding to add 2 QDC between the GPU and the RES and the second one between PUMP intake and the RES.

what do you guys think?

and might be changing all the barbs into compression.

I've totalled everything together with the 2x QDC, 5x straight, 3x 45 degree and 2x 90 degree angle compression fittings with shipping and tax would be around $203

=O damn why are they so expensive! lol


Watch out, QDCs adds more flow restriction to your loop. A couple of them paired with 45s and 90s can impact your loop's flow rate severely. I'm not saying you shouldn't use them, just be sure to get a strong enough pump like a mcp355 or mcp655.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


wow... $299 for a p55 board!?!? I'd just go x58 instead.


Yeah, prices like that kind of defeats the purpose of the 1156 socket...


----------



## bundymania

Work in Progress.....


----------



## kalluka

Can someone suggest what color tubing to use with gigabytes white/blue mobo?


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Work in Progress.....











Nice!


----------



## bundymania

Thx - here you can look at some details:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=260324


----------



## !Lester!

Awesome bundy!


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Work in Progress.....











nICE!!!!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

How do u like that mips ramblock? was thinking about picking one up


----------



## Chicken Patty

Bundy, that's ridiculous!!! Bravo!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## kzinti1

I'll be vertically mounting a ThermoChill PA120.3 in a new MountainMods CYO/UFO. Six Yate-Loon Medium speed fans and a ThermoChill shroud in push/pull. Swiftech MCP655 in an XSPC dual bay reservoir, Ybris Black Sun cpu block, DangerDen all-copper block on an MSI N480GTX, all 1/2"x3/4" high flow fittings, Feser tubing and, initially, Feser One fluid. I've already bought the fluid. I found out too late to just use UV tubing and then only use distilled water with an algaecide and maybe a silver strip.
I'm wondering if it would be okay to mount the rad with the fittings on top.
The only minor problem I see is draining, which I would do by using a T connector with one side of the fitting having a length of tubing with a stop plug that i could place in a gallon milk jug. Then I'd open the stop plug and turn on the w/c system while pouring fresh distilled water in the reservoir. When the drain jug is full the entire loop will be flushed and then I'll add some algaecide and let it circulate.
Will this work or am I completely missing something? Is it even safe to mount the radiator practically upside-down?
I haven't w/c'd in more than a few years. Ever since I could afford to switch to Intel from AMD. Now that I'm using i7 cpu's I need to start watercooling again. There are no conversions for my Asetek VapoChill system/case. I may have to sell that. Maybe.
TIA
k1


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kalluka*


Can someone suggest what color tubing to use with gigabytes white/blue mobo?


I'll be changing mine to red. Should look ok.


----------



## bundymania

Thanks guys !

The MIPS Ramcooler is very nice and when you own corsair dominator ram, you will not loose the guarantee with this version i have









Chicken Patty: ridiculous ?


----------



## eppopipe

Bundy, nothings covering that open socket! Risky! Your much more gutsy then me


----------



## bundymania

Hehe, no problem, i have no little kids or big dogs running around here







I dismounted cpu + waterblock yesterday, because i need the cpu for another pc for some days and i want to check several waterblocks with different tops, to see what fits best. HK 3.0 with White POM Top, or maybe plexi top with Led, or the EK Supreme HF with Plexi or Nickel Top.


----------



## gordesky1

This is my first custom water loop








Well i did have a h50 so i had water before but not a custom loop. How does it look?

And so far im happy and not happy..Temps are ok but i thought it would be better.

Temps are 33 too 34idle and 45 too 46c at load with 4ghzs and 1.47v load which seems decent,
And what i was aiming for is 4.2ghzs with 1.55v but temps are around 48c too 50c, and up too 52c when the heat kicks on in the house...

Does that seem right with this kit?

Also as you can see by the pics im running it like this res/pump too cpu than too rad than back too the res/pump combo,

Also i seen setups like this res/pump too rad than too cpu than back too the res/pump.

Will i see lower temps like that or about the same as i have it now? Or how i have it setup is good the way it is?

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit

Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock
X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir
5mm Blue LED with 4Pin Molex
RS240 Radiator
Low Noise 1700rpm 120mm Fan x2 plus 2 silverstones 120mm 110cfms in push and pull.
2 Meters of Clear 7/16"ID Hose
G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6

pics are now resize too 1920x1440 from 3600res.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

looks good, gotta manage those wires tho


----------



## Chicken Patty

Dude, please resize your pics before posting them, they are a few and ridiculously large. My whole internet has came to a crawl while loading this page up.


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Dude, please resize your pics before posting them, they are a few and ridiculously large. My whole internet has came to a crawl while loading this page up.


Sorry about that i thought the forum would resize them down by it self..

Gona resize them now.

pics are now resized.


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
looks good, gotta manage those wires tho


Ya i still gotta move all those wires out of the way..









Im trying too figure out should i leave the hoses the way they are or switch them around so they be.

res/pump too rad too cpu back too res/pump.

from this Res/pump too cpu too rad than back too res/pump

But i don't want too go threw the trouble too redo the loop and have no difference in temps lol

what do you guys think?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

there will be no difference, just leave it how it is.


----------



## nist7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gordesky1* 
Im trying too figure out should i leave the hoses the way they are or switch them around so they be.

res/pump too rad too cpu back too res/pump.

from this Res/pump too cpu too rad than back too res/pump

But i don't want too go threw the trouble too redo the loop and have no difference in temps lol

what do you guys think?

Not a WCing expert (looking to get into WCing) but from my logic/common sense point of view, to me, you would want the CPU to receive the water when it is the most cool, which would mean directly after the rad.

So: CPU to pump/res to radiator to CPU.

This way water goes to the relatively cool reservior/pump and then it goes to radiator for the major cooling and then immediately feeds back into the CPU.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nist7* 
Not a WCing expert (looking to get into WCing) but from my logic/common sense point of view, to me, you would want the CPU to receive the water when it is the most cool, which would mean directly after the rad.

So: CPU to pump/res to radiator to CPU.

This way water goes to the relatively cool reservior/pump and then it goes to radiator for the major cooling and then immediately feeds back into the CPU.

temp reaches equilibrium after a while and the temp of the water going into the rad and then out is less than a 1c difference. Realistically it isn't worth even the cost of tubing to change it around


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
temp reaches equilibrium after a while and the temp of the water going into the rad and then out is less than a 1c difference. Realistically it isn't worth even the cost of tubing to change it around


Thanks









I will leave it as is, And when i need too redo the loop for a water change i could try it the other way just too see what it does, But ya if theirs ony 1c or less better than what i have now its not worth going threw the trouble for.


----------



## nist7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
temp reaches equilibrium after a while and the temp of the water going into the rad and then out is less than a 1c difference. Realistically it isn't worth even the cost of tubing to change it around

Ah. Good to know.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gordesky1* 
Sorry about that i thought the forum would resize them down by it self..

Gona resize them now.

pics are now resized.

Thanks bro, rig looks great!


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Thanks bro, rig looks great!


No problem







And thanks!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Work in Progress.....










**** I feel cold even just looking at that...


----------



## eze

Sorry for the cell pic but this is my newest set up, just added new pump, radiator, tubing and fittings.










What do you guys think?

EDIT - Forgot to add this...

XSPC X2O 750 Pump/Reso
Enzotech Sapphire Waterblock
Koolance GTX 470 Waterblock
Black Ice Xtreme 360 Radiator w/ High Speed Yate Loon Fans
Primoflex 3/8 ID 1/2 OD Tubing UV Green
Bitspower Black Compression Fittings
Thermaltake Flow / Temp Reader


----------



## eze

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Work in Progress.....











****ing sweet


----------



## thx1138

If I wanted to do some hardcore overclocking with my 5850 what would be the best water block to keep not only the core cool but the mosfets and ram cool as well.


----------



## Pis

I'm still new...this is my first built....

Any recommendations/advice? Please tell me.

Improvement from H50 to this setup, not much...


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pis* 

I'm still new...this is my first built....

Any recommendations/advice? Please tell me.

Improvement from H50 to this setup, not much...

Looks good but how can you say a quality quad rad like that isnt much improvement from the h50. Just going to a custom loop with a crappy swiftech tripple rad from the h50 I was able to oc from 3.8 to 4.1 not to mention I can put other things in the loop as well when h50 only limits you to cpu.

What are your temps? Maybe you need to reseat the block?

Why's your res so low? Fill it up I bet your getting air bubbles because I do when my micro res is that low.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
**** I feel cold even just looking at that...

So it seems, that i did the right things with this build in the past weeks, when girls getting cold and may want to warm up at me, eh ?!


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
So it seems, that i did the right things with this build in the past weeks, when girls getting cold and may want to warm up at me, eh ?!


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


If I wanted to do some hardcore overclocking with my 5850 what would be the best water block to keep not only the core cool but the mosfets and ram cool as well.


EKFC if it's reference card.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Guys i have a Crosshair 4 so i was thinking of using black and red tubbing or should i use just white? give me you advice


----------



## FannBlade

Black and red IMO


----------



## Trget

well here is my first loop..
Corsair Obsidian 800D
XSPC RX240 Radiator
Swiftech Apogee XT CPU Waterblock
Swiftech MCP655 12V Speed Variable Pump
PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID
XSPC 5.25" Bay Reservoir


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

nice


----------



## bundymania

Look at this now fellas, the bottomplate is the same as from from the well known Apogee xt cpu waterblock, so itÂ´s no wonder that the gpu temp is very good !


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated


updated


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Anybody know what tubing/coloring is used in the banner picture on the OP?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


updated


you do not have these powers, do not make claims you cannot back up.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Anybody know what tubing/coloring is used in the banner picture on the OP?


Looks like the rig from polish guy screamer or [email protected] - Tygon with........hmmmm.......maybe primochill blood red


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Looks like the rig from polish guy screamer or [email protected] - Tygon with........hmmmm.......maybe primochill blood red


Thanks


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Look at this now fellas, the bottomplate is the same as from from the well known Apogee xt cpu waterblock, so itÂ´s no wonder that the gpu temp is very good !










Interesting. I was thinking about buying one for my 5850 but it's not actively cooling the mosfets and ram unless I attach a fan to it and after buying the block and plate new it pretty much cost the same as a full cover block.

Is there any reason to buy it over the full cover?


----------



## thx1138

Oh yeah one more question.

I'm thinking about running a temporary set up for a couple of months with tubing from lowes. I know the plasticizer in the tubing leaks into the water and turns it milky. Is this harmful to the components in anyway like will it clog up my radiator or cpu block or hurt temps some how? If not I think I can live with a milky white loop for a while.


----------



## Pis

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
Looks good but how can you say a quality quad rad like that isnt much improvement from the h50. Just going to a custom loop with a crappy swiftech tripple rad from the h50 I was able to oc from 3.8 to 4.1 not to mention I can put other things in the loop as well when h50 only limits you to cpu.

What are your temps? Maybe you need to reseat the block?

Why's your res so low? Fill it up I bet your getting air bubbles because I do when my micro res is that low.

Yup, exactly what u said









Air bubbles...now no more, stable flow.









No, I should buy a new fans, actually, only 2 fans that are currently working lol, 1 dead....

4x gentle typhoon (push), 1x cm r4 + 1x silverstone fan (pull).


----------



## JE Nightmare

took apart my hk today, no gunk but it sure is changing colors.


















i'd post a picture of the new 10 minute case, but i don't like the way the pictures turned out so maybe a different time.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Oh yeah one more question.

I'm thinking about running a temporary set up for a couple of months with tubing from lowes. I know the plasticizer in the tubing leaks into the water and turns it milky. Is this harmful to the components in anyway like will it clog up my radiator or cpu block or hurt temps some how? If not I think I can live with a milky white loop for a while.


I've never noticed anything negative from it unless you count the cloudy loop. Blocks have always looked nice and clean once taken apart after having it running like that for months.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Oh yeah one more question.

I'm thinking about running a temporary set up for a couple of months with tubing from lowes. I know the plasticizer in the tubing leaks into the water and turns it milky. Is this harmful to the components in anyway like will it clog up my radiator or cpu block or hurt temps some how? If not I think I can live with a milky white loop for a while.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I've never noticed anything negative from it unless you count the cloudy loop. Blocks have always looked nice and clean once taken apart after having it running like that for months.


krissy is right.

it should be fine for permanent use if you can deal with it not being _really_ sexy. so long as you dont have any mineral stuff in the tubes to corrode your blocks you will be fine. the plasticizers they use now are pretty solvent when they get into a fluid in my experience (limited to industrial machines and my rig admittedly) and shouldn't be a big deal if you take care of your loop like most guys here appear to


----------



## SKI_VT

Anyone know if OCN has an EK rep?
My res cracked (not from over tightening it)
And some dude denied my ticket at their website :/


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Oh yeah one more question.

I'm thinking about running a temporary set up for a couple of months with tubing from lowes. I know the plasticizer in the tubing leaks into the water and turns it milky. Is this harmful to the components in anyway like will it clog up my radiator or cpu block or hurt temps some how? If not I think I can live with a milky white loop for a while.


i only buy tubing from lowes ( main reasons being because it's behind my house and it's something like $3 for 10 feet. ) never had a problem with discoloration due to the tubing itself.


----------



## oliverw92

SKI_VT, xtreme_systems has a rep on there. Eddy - the owner is there.


----------



## lenneth13

Waiting for the fans to come in


----------



## Rona

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lenneth13* 
Waiting for the fans to come in











Lots of fun to be had!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Where is your water?









Btw, I'm using fangrills on each fan... I didnt do that before till I accidently hit a fan at 1900rpm with my pink..


----------



## Orestes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Where is your water?









Btw, I'm using fangrills on each fan... I didnt do that before till I accidently hit a fan at 1900rpm with my pink..









I messed a finger up and broke a fan blade on a 3000 rpm ultra kaze


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Ouch, I'm afraid of my ultra kaze...









Only broke a 600rpm fan blade, the 1900rpm fan blade didnt brake, it was a new fan so I was pretty happy it was still alive xD


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Orestes* 
I messed a finger up and broke a fan blade on a 3000 rpm ultra kaze









You're lucky that's all you did


----------



## Rona

I've seriously considered getting some fan grills lately due to hitting them, lol.. Granted I only run 1500RPM Gelid's but still


----------



## kevingreenbmx

yall need to stop workin inside your case with the power on.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

I dont like to stop [email protected]








Besides that, I just dont like shutting down my pc, therse always a ...load of tabs open on chrome and so on


----------



## [CyGnus]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yall need to stop workin inside your case with the power on.









agreed, i might follow your advice LOL


----------



## SimpleTech

At least you weren't ******ed like me and try to rewire a fan cable when the computer was on.

I had the red wire to my 3-pin connector where the sensor wire goes. So I had to remove the black and red (made it a bit easier to reconnect). Problem was that I accidentally touched the two and that caused a short resulting in a small plum of smoke in my Sunbeam tech station.

Luckily all of my parts were okay but the "zap" noise and the smoke thereafter scared the $hit out of me.


----------



## wermad

jump-start your psu if you need to test components, such as fans and pumps, leds, etc using a paperclip. easily and quickly turn on power and cut it if you need to. no need to power on the mb and major components. this is also a good way to leak test your wc setup.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I've never noticed anything negative from it unless you count the cloudy loop. Blocks have always looked nice and clean once taken apart after having it running like that for months.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Striker36*


krissy is right.

it should be fine for permanent use if you can deal with it not being _really_ sexy. so long as you dont have any mineral stuff in the tubes to corrode your blocks you will be fine. the plasticizers they use now are pretty solvent when they get into a fluid in my experience (limited to industrial machines and my rig admittedly) and shouldn't be a big deal if you take care of your loop like most guys here appear to



Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


i only buy tubing from lowes ( main reasons being because it's behind my house and it's something like $3 for 10 feet. ) never had a problem with discoloration due to the tubing itself.


Thank you thank you thank you. In retrospect it seems like a silly question but I'd rather be safe than sorry.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Probably going to be re-doing my loop with a res... Should I use 1/2" ID tubing this time? CPU loop only and I'm currently using 7/16 ID.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Thank you thank you thank you. In retrospect it seems like a silly question but I'd rather be safe than sorry.


Absolutely







No harm in asking at all!


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Probably going to be re-doing my loop with a res... Should I use 1/2" ID tubing this time? CPU loop only and I'm currently using 7/16 ID.


I love the combination of 7/16 id 5/8 od tubing with 1/2" fittings and wouldn't choose anything else, if you're using barbs anyway.

In my experience 1/2" tubing with half inch barbs left too much play and I doubt there is any difference in flow going from 1/2" to 7/16"


----------



## AdvanSuper

I'm using all 1/2" barbs right now.


----------



## mav2000

I have also used only 7/16" tubing...works well for me, but I use compressions.


----------



## [CyGnus]

My new stuff its here will post pics tomorrow now time for work. I choose a Black and red theme to go with my CrossHair 4


----------



## hti.inc

CM HAF 922
i7 920 @ 4.3Ghz
Asus Rampage II Gene
OCZ Vertex 2 SSD
Swiftech MCR220
Swiftech MCR120
Swiftech MCP355 W/XSPC Top


----------



## SwishaMane

1/2"id 3/4"od compression fitting is only way to go, lol...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## thx1138

So the 4 hardware stores I checked in my area do not carry 7/16 id 5/8 od tubing. They have 7/16 5/16 which looks extremely small compared to the 7/16 5/8 tubing I bought from koolertek. What would be the next best size to get for a really snug fit because I really like using 7/16 and 5/8 with my 1/2" barbs. I have some 1/2 id 5/8 od tygon laying around but I really don't like how loose it is on the barb. I might just end up ordering the expensive stuff online after all :/


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

anything smaller than 1/2 id...


----------



## AdvanSuper

So I ended up buying an XSPC dual 5.25 bay res. I got the all clear one... And ideas for a design on the front of it? I was thinking about the OCN logo or something.. Like the whole face would be black and you could see through the OCN logo and see the water.

Not sure if making sense


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

You can get it laser etched which would look pretty cool. Get the whole front face etched out and have the logo still clear. Also backlight the res with leds (should be holes for them somewhere) in whatever color theme ur rig has


----------



## mitchbowman

i run a metric size tube from the hardware store
i can remember what size it was exactly but it is smaller than 7/16
just take a barb in with you and see what will fit


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
Oh yeah one more question.

I'm thinking about running a temporary set up for a couple of months with tubing from lowes. I know the plasticizer in the tubing leaks into the water and turns it milky. Is this harmful to the components in anyway like will it clog up my radiator or cpu block or hurt temps some how? If not I think I can live with a milky white loop for a while.

I know that you already got a few replies but as a little added piece of mind.... My son and I both use Home Depot black pvc tubing, for several months now, and while the inside of the tubing on my Son's rig had a white residue, there was never anything in the water. It was always crystal clear. I'm not even sure it was a residue but maybe a discoloring from some reaction to the biocide that we used.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
You can get it laser etched which would look pretty cool. Get the whole front face etched out and have the logo still clear. Also backlight the res with leds (should be holes for them somewhere) in whatever color theme ur rig has

I'm draining my loop soon for a move and what to have everything up and running quickly. I was thinking about getting a cut out sort of and spraying over it with plasti-dip just to see how it comes out. I was also going to use one green LED for the res since I don't really like lights much.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
So I ended up buying an XSPC dual 5.25 bay res. I got the all clear one... And ideas for a design on the front of it? I was thinking about the OCN logo or something.. Like the whole face would be black and you could see through the OCN logo and see the water.

Not sure if making sense









Or you can go to a sticker/signs place and have them make a OCN logo on black paper. Then once you remove the OCN logo part, you have the whole in the shape of the OCN logo, get what I mean? Obviously the sticker would be the same size as the face of the res.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Or you can go to a sticker/signs place and have them make a OCN logo on black paper. Then once you remove the OCN logo part, you have the whole in the shape of the OCN logo, get what I mean? Obviously the sticker would be the same size as the face of the res.









This is true and I happen to know some people who make vinyl stickers.


----------



## Phatal

I wanna buy a watercooling system for around $300-$500 for my CPU or both CPU and video card, any idea what I should get as I'm new to this?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
This is true and I happen to know some people who make vinyl stickers.

I'd say that's a great idea dude. You should try it!


----------



## SKI_VT

Anyone know which Res is best for me?
I had a 250 that was perfect size but it cracked and im wary of buying another one.

I need at least two ports on top and at least one on the bottom.
It also needs to look good









althought if it comes down to it i might buy one for the Bays


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Anyone know which Res is best for me?
I had a 250 that was perfect size but it cracked and im wary of buying another one.

I need at least two ports on top and at least one on the bottom.
It also needs to look good









althought if it comes down to it i might buy one for the Bays

I got mine for 39.99 XSPC 5.25" Dual Bay on jab-tech. Koolertek had the all black with the clear bubble but they sold out @ 39.99.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Anyone know which Res is best for me?
I had a 250 that was perfect size but it cracked and im wary of buying another one.

I need at least two ports on top and at least one on the bottom.
It also needs to look good









althought if it comes down to it i might buy one for the Bays

Size doesn't really make any difference on performance, just get something that fits your case. You could co with a swiftech micro res v2. Cheap and works great!


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RatDog* 
Size doesn't really make any difference on performance, just get something that fits your case. You could co with a swiftech micro res v2. Cheap and works great!

Im using the Mrico res as we Speak as a replacement since my EK 250 mL Cracked :/

I know how performance goes, i've been at this a long time too !









I just wanted to know what you guys feel i should get for a res.
PS. I hate the Micro even if its working right now!

Pic of Current Temporary Set up with Micro Res !


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Im using the Mrico res as we Speak as a replacement since my EK 250 mL Cracked :/

I know how performance goes, i've been at this a long time too !









I just wanted to know what you guys feel i should get for a res.
PS. I hate the Micro even if its working right now!

Pic of Current Temporary Set up with Micro Res !

I have the EK multi-option advanced and love it, but I got it new so no crack on mine. /shrug. Like I said in another post to you, just buy a replacement tube for 20 bucks and your good.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RatDog* 
I have the EK multi-option advanced and love it, but I got it new so no crack on mine. /shrug. Like I said in another post to you, just buy a replacement tube for 20 bucks and your good.

I got it New too,
I dont trust anything on that thing anymore, the threads leak and the cylinder cracks!

But maybe if you can convince me its better than a sleeker looking bay res with my pump in the bay aswell


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
I got it New too,
I dont trust anything on that thing anymore, the threads leak and the cylinder cracks!

But maybe if you can convince me its better than a sleeker looking bay res with my pump in the bay as well

Oh, I thought you said you bought it of someone on here 2nd hand.

I can't convince you of anything, a res is personal opinion. If you like a bay with integrated pump, go for it. More space efficient than a tube res any day. Personally I don't like bay res because I like a more stealth rig and don't want the hassle of having to try and pull it out to fill it. But a ton of people on here have them and love them. Very personal choice. If you still like the tube look, try the bitspower or koolance or one of the others if you are scared off the EK. If you like bay, XSPC makes some great ones and koolance has that fancy double 655 bay res (I think it is over priced but looks cool)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

If you like the looks of a tube res you should check out Frozen-Q's stuff. he has more than just the liquid fusions and the plain tube res's he makes are just as high quality and less expensive than the liquid fusion.

or check out the IandH stuff.


----------



## whipple16

I just replaced my dual bay res with a ek250. I like the look of a cylinder res and I wanted those 2 drive bays back. It was the combo that comes with the rasa 750 kit. Other than that was great quality. And looked pretty good from the front. Of the case.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Hey guys, first post here, hope its in the right spot...

I've been looking at some of the rigs and I've been really digging the UV Orange case fans (and he LED orange case fans) and I'm having a lot of trouble finding orange ones, any one have some suggestions on where to look?

Thanks


----------



## [CyGnus]

Little update:


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*


Hey guys, first post here, hope its in the right spot...

I've been looking at some of the rigs and I've been really digging the UV Orange case fans (and he LED orange case fans) and I'm having a lot of trouble finding orange ones, any one have some suggestions on where to look?

Thanks


Welcome to OCN

The "orange" you are seeing is more than likely red. It usually doesn't photograph that well and looks orange and sometimes purple in pics posted here.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*


Hey guys, first post here, hope its in the right spot...

I've been looking at some of the rigs and I've been really digging the UV Orange case fans (and he LED orange case fans) and I'm having a lot of trouble finding orange ones, any one have some suggestions on where to look?

Thanks


Like this? XIGMATEK

--Rome


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


Like this? XIGMATEK

--Rome


Oops I thought he was talking about tubing.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


Like this? XIGMATEK

--Rome



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ColSanderz*












More like that. I'm pretty sure I saw a UV one too, but I can't remember on what page :/


----------



## t-ramp

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233015

Pretty much the same thing but different blade style.
...and it's 120mm.


----------



## NrGx

Will a XSPC X2O 450 pump be enough to push a single loop for a CPU? 450lph of flow.

Also, another quick question: If I have black tubing, what's the best bet in terms of cheap coolant? Distilled water and some anti-corrosive fluid?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

yep


----------



## eze

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NrGx* 
Will a XSPC X2O 450 pump be enough to push a single loop for a CPU? 450lph of flow.

Yes and enough to add a GPU block easily.

Quote:

Also, another quick question: If I have black tubing, what's the best bet in terms of cheap coolant? Distilled water and some anti-corrosive fluid?
Use distilled water and a silver kill coil.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eze* 
Yes and enough to add a GPU block easily.

no the 450 *can't* handle a gpu block, the 750 can.


----------



## eze

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
no the 450 *can't* handle a gpu block, the 750 can.


My bad, I thought he said 750 not 450.

My fault.


----------



## thx1138

Link in sig for more pics and explanation of what I'm trying to accomplish.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Striker36* 
lol now THATS a rad box









Ty.


----------



## Striker36

lol now THATS a rad box


----------



## ecaftermath

Cooling your CPU with 4 rads?


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Cooling your CPU with 4 rads?

lol you betcha, visit the link in my sig for an explanation of my project. Basically I'm building a mock up of the rad box I want to make out of metal and weld to the top of my current case. My northbridge block is in the mail and I havn't ordered a gpu block yet. Temps dropped 10c in both idle and load but I'll really benefit from it once I put other blocks in the loop. I plan on buying another pump as well even though this one seems to handle the load just fine it's better to be safe than sorry.


----------



## McDown

Finally finished mine


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Chicken Patty

@mcdown

That looks amazing! Great color combination!


----------



## [seandotcom]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McDown*


*insert sexy 800D here*


sweet jesus.


----------



## SKI_VT

Amazing Photography?


----------



## fshizl

clean your nails... LOL, nah jk nice shots...i like the one with the fittings in your hand.


----------



## airplaneman

Hey fshizl, that looks sick. What ISO you shootin' at?


----------



## t-ramp

80.

And that is a gorgeous build you have there, fshizl.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t-ramp*


80.

And that is a gorgeous build you have there, fshizl.










I dunno how you know, but thanks







.


----------



## t-ramp

It's in the file info.







So is some other stuff like camera model, shutter speed, aperture, etc.

Hopefully I can get my case mod wrapped up within a couple of weeks and get my loop back together. I ordered some compression fittings, and have a new pump/res and radiator that I'm dying to put to use.


----------



## kidwolf909

Finally getting my WC project underway




































Can't wait to spend more time working on it!


----------



## PeaceMaker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*























































Link in sig for more pics and explanation of what I'm trying to accomplish.









Ty.











How the heck do you organize that mess? Do you have to sleeve?


----------



## kiwwanna

Well this is where I've got mine to after 4 days of work off an on. Did a full tear down, didnt need to as it was spotless in every block







Still need to get tubing on, Tygon black. I know the wood looks awful I need to get time to paint it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## airplaneman

Snapped some pics after sleeving almost everything with some MDPC-X goodness







. Just need to do the cathode wire in the drive bays and one 3-pin fan connector and for the most part I'll be done







.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey, is that res the uv red helix?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey, is that res the uv red helix?

Haha you asked me that last time I posted







, and yeah it is.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Haha you asked me that last time I posted







, and yeah it is.

sorry, it just looks completely different from the one I have... :-/

mine is very pink, but yours looks like it would match my build really well.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
sorry, it just looks completely different from the one I have... :-/

mine is very pink, but yours looks like it would match my build really well.

PM frozen-Q and i bet he would set you up with a new Helix pretty cheap.

but yea that would look KILLER in Classy


----------



## airplaneman

What lighting are you using? To get the true colours of it, take it outside when the sky is overcast, and take a pic with the lowest ISO you can. That will give you it's natural colour. Perhaps it's just your current lighting that is making it look pink.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
What lighting are you using? To get the true colours of it, take it outside when the sky is overcast, and take a pic with the lowest ISO you can. That will give you it's natural colour. Perhaps it's just your current lighting that is making it look pink.

no the old UV ones are actually pretty pink.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Striker36* 
PM frozen-Q and i bet he would set you up with a new Helix pretty cheap.

but yea that would look KILLER in Classy

already a step ahead of you on that one, I have already paid him for it, but he is having a terrible time finding any decent red rods...


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
already a step ahead of you on that one, I have already paid him for it, but he is having a terrible time finding any decent red rods...









thats too bad....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Striker36* 







thats too bad....

there are a ton of companies that say they sell the color I want, but it seems that NO ONE in the US has any in stock, and you have to do a HUGE order to get a run made.


----------



## Striker36

yea, i can believe it... the minimum order for extruded aluminum for work is 1000 feet from some places... just not worth it....

i hope it all works out though.. i want to see classy in all her finery


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Striker36* 
yea, i can believe it... the minimum order for extruded aluminum for work is 1000 feet from some places... just not worth it....

I hope it all works out though.. i want to see classy in all her finery

word, me too.









I suspect the red I have will work alright with the black aluminum behind it and with water around it. I need to play around with some stuff and see.


----------



## Skoobs

piecing my setup together!

have the Bitspower Black Freezer p6t motherboard block
have 3 feser xtender shrouds with blue AND green LEDs (making aqua by alternating the two) also will be getting 2 or 3 more of these. probably only 2. will find out why when i start my worklog.
have Feser UV blue Tubing 1/2 IN 3/4 OUT (looks sick, looks hefty)
have way too many different bitspower Matte black compression fittings
have PT-NUKE
have Black anodized rivets to put my case back together

my case is out to be completely black anodized and will be ready, hopefully, on monday. that way i have a lot of time to put it back together and cut the radiator hole and all that jazz.

Black Ice SR1 360 Rad due next friday
MCP655 pump due next friday
bitspower mod top v2 due next friday

Have yet to oder a CPU block. i dont know what to get, and i ran out of money. haha


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kiwwanna* 
Well this is where I've got mine to after 4 days of work off an on. Did a full tear down, didnt need to as it was spotless in every block







Still need to get tubing on, Tygon black. I know the wood looks awful I need to get time to paint it.

Wow that looks great. That's a very expensive set up you have there.


----------



## eloverton2

Originally, I built _Phor the Win_ with an H70, however, heat became an issue along side my need for higher clocks and moar powah. So an overhaul took place...

Parts:
AMD 1090T
AeroCool Shark 120mm & 140mm
Corsair 800d
Corsair 1000HX PSU
Enzotech 1/2" id x 5/8" od Compression Fittings x8
Feser One Non Conductive Fluid UV Blue 1000ml
Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket
Lite-On DVD/RW Drive
Logisys Dual 12" UV Cold Cathode
MSI 890FXA-GD70
MSI R5870 Lightning
PrimoChill Ainti-Kink Coils UV Blue
Scythe Kaze Master Pro Controller x2
Scythe 120mm 1900rpm Slipstream Fan x12
Swiftech Apogee-XT Cpu Block & AM3 Hold Down Adapter
Swiftech MCP655 Pump
Swiftech MCR320QP Rad x2
Tygon B-44-4X 1/2" id x 5/8" od Non-Porouss Clear Tubing x6 ft.
WD VelociRaptor 300gb x2 (Raid-0)
XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir/MCP655 Pump Top





































Running 33*C at full load 24/7 Folding on a 1090T @ 4.29 (268x16)


----------



## Jelah

Came home from work to a nice little package from NCIX









Now i just gotta wait till the 17th for my new mobo to get here and i'll have a nice update


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jprovido

not as good as custom water cooling but technically it IS water cooling


----------



## SKI_VT

Yo Kev!
Im getting a BitFenix Colossus Case!








That thing is gonna Look so SICK!

I can't Wait to put my Water Cooling Stuff in there


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Yo Kev!
Im getting a BitFenix Colossus Case!








That thing is gonna Look so SICK!

I can't Wait to put my Water Cooling Stuff in there










cool, looks pretty small though, where you gonna put your rads?


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jprovido*


not as good as custom water cooling but technically it IS water cooling




























your rig is really sexy! even though its not a custom loop.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Striker36*


no the old UV ones are actually pretty pink.


I thought Kevin ordered it recently?

No matter I guess.

Good lucking finding a good helix Kevin!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *airplaneman*


I thought Kevin ordered it recently?

No matter I guess.

Good lucking finding a good helix Kevin!


yea, mine is VERY recent.

and thanks, hope we can find something... :-/


----------



## [seandotcom]

added a 120 mm radiator


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]*











added a 120 mm radiator










nice! how much did the temps drop? if any


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

cool, looks pretty small though, where you gonna put your rads?


Small?
This thing is bigger than a Haf!
Its probably just the optical illusion of the pics









The Rad? wow, actually i don't know








Wanna help me figure out a spot for it?

I might just try and fit it in the same place up to but if not we shall see


----------



## [seandotcom]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
nice! how much did the temps drop? if any

i used to load at about 80, but now i load at like 69-70

which is good for 1.38 volts?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]* 
i used to load at about 80, but now i load at like 69-70

which is good for 1.38 volts?

thats an insane drop congratz


----------



## hti.inc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
sorry, it just looks completely different from the one I have... :-/

mine is very pink, but yours looks like it would match my build really well.

I have one of the original UV red ones, it does look pinkish under some light.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hti.inc* 
I have one of the original UV red ones, it does look pinkish under some light.

alright, cool, I guess i just need o play with the illumination more...

thanks


----------



## bnk0430

Where can I get the RE themed res?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bnk0430* 
Where can I get the RE themed res?

Here or here.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bnk0430* 
Where can I get the RE themed res?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Here or here.

or PM frozen-Q here on OCN


----------



## bnk0430

thanks!


----------



## whipple16

just finished installing the MCP 35x and EK 250 res. Gonna try and not spend any more WC money till i upgrade my mobo and GPU and put those under water too!!


----------



## pcnoob1

i'll soon be joining one of the best threads on ocn. parts for my loop and 1055 coming in. hopefully by monday. most likely tuesday


----------



## [CyGnus]

Wednesday arrive my other 2 blocks too (2nd GTS450 and GTX460)







already modded the case to fit another 240 RAD if needed


----------



## whood886

ok i got a question, what should i do? im buying another 5870 to crossfire in a couple months and trying to figure out how im gonna make room for it. oh and it has to be in the top pci. heres a pic of what i got now 








so my problem is if i dont move my res and pump i wont be able to connect my power to the card so i was thinking of buying one of these http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...roduct_id=1086 and maybe a fan controller and getting rid of my current res and pump. any other ideas?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Striker36

nothing different. just a picture with more lights


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## lowbudgethooker




----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lowbudgethooker* 









is that running off a single 120?


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Yes. It's just meant for silence. It is my movie and music server for the house.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lowbudgethooker* 
Yes. It's just meant for silence. It is my movie and music server for the house.

nice i had mine running off an rx120 for a while it was really silent


----------



## [CyGnus]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lowbudgethooker* 
Yes. It's just meant for silence. It is my movie and music server for the house.

So why the 2 fans? And it was better if you had one before and the other after the rad...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]* 
So why the 2 fans? And it was better if you had one before and the other after the rad...

Could be the shell of a fan being used as a shroud? Not sure.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Could be the shell of a fan being used as a shroud? Not sure.

yeah it looks like a shroud to me


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Yes it is indeed a gutted 120mm acting as a shroud (big improvement in temps.) And yes it does work better using a push/pull system. On a side note, if anyone knows of a dual 140mm rad that has a low profile (enough to be hidden in the top section of a lancool k62) I would love to get one.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

just gonna drop this in here real quick, be sure to check my worklog for the full update.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
just gonna drop this in here real quick, be sure to check my worklog for the full update.










I love the invisible tube on your CPU block and mobo, how did you get it so clear.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
just gonna drop this in here real quick, be sure to check my worklog for the full update.


















updated.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RatDog* 
I love the invisible tube on your CPU block and mobo, how did you get it so clear.









skillz


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
updated.









can't be added to the list because it is not a complete system.









gotta get the rules straight before you get to use that word.


----------



## SKI_VT

It is a complete system to me...
So...
Updated










Nothing you can do will stop me ! Muahahahahhaha <--(evil laugh)


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Hi

My first attempt at water cooling my gaming rig, hope you all like it!

Parts used:
EK Supreme HF Blue plexi
EK Acetal Nickle 5970 Block
EK Acetal Nickle 5870 Block
HW Labs GTS Gen Two Stealth 280 Rad
HW Labs Black Ice SR1 140 Rad
MCP 655 Variable pump with Bitspower Top
Swiftec MCRES Micro Res V2
3 x High Speed 140mm Yate Loon Fans
Bitspower compression fittings 
1/4IN, 3/4OD UV Feser tubing

I was originally a little worried about not having enough rad to cool everything however the highest I've seen the CPU on load was 65C with 23C ambient. I've also attached a screenshot of P95 after an hour to show you guys. I am curious because my CPU idle temp sits about 37-40C, which is about the same as my NH-D14 I had before. Should I be worried about this?

CPU is stable at 4.0ghz at 1.28vcore but jumps to 1.296 under load with vdroop.

I am also replacing the Swiftech Micro Res for a XSPC single bay version from Sidewinders as I am not liking the position of it in such as restrictive case. I brought a dremel in case I needed to mod it to fit the 280 rad up top, but it just fits barely so no modding was required.

GPU temps max is 45C, idles between 27-30 which is awesome. Nearly broke 2600 for Heaven 2.0, Core at 900 and Memory at 1200. 1.162v for 5970 and 1.145 for 5870.

Anyways, enjoy!


----------



## koven

^ looks really nice


----------



## artnsx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*


My first attempt at water cooling my gaming rig, hope you all like it!


Very nice, thanks for posting pics. I didn't like the white tubing at first but the more i see the more it grows on me. +r


----------



## dagewfdasf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*


Hi

My first attempt at water cooling my gaming rig, hope you all like it!

Parts used:
EK Supreme HF Blue plexi
EK Acetal Nickle 5970 Block
EK Acetal Nickle 5870 Block
HW Labs GTS Gen Two Stealth 280 Rad
HW Labs Black Ice SR1 140 Rad
MCP 655 Variable pump with Bitspower Top
Swiftec MCRES Micro Res V2
3 x High Speed 140mm Yate Loon Fans
Bitspower compression fittings 
1/4IN, 3/4OD UV Feser tubing

I was originally a little worried about not having enough rad to cool everything however the highest I've seen the CPU on load was 65C with 23C ambient. I've also attached a screenshot of P95 after an hour to show you guys. I am curious because my CPU idle temp sits about 37-40C, which is about the same as my NH-D14 I had before. Should I be worried about this?

CPU is stable at 4.0ghz at 1.28vcore but jumps to 1.296 under load with vdroop.

I am also replacing the Swiftech Micro Res for a XSPC single bay version from Sidewinders as I am not liking the position of it in such as restrictive case. I brought a dremel in case I needed to mod it to fit the 280 rad up top, but it just fits barely so no modding was required.

GPU temps max is 45C, idles between 27-30 which is awesome. Nearly broke 2600 for Heaven 2.0, Core at 900 and Memory at 1200. 1.162v for 5970 and 1.145 for 5870.

Anyways, enjoy!
























blue leds and white tubes look good


----------



## brl3git

First off i must say ive seen some really sick builds in this thread with some amazing cooling and routing that i didnt even know was possible. I'll be honest this thread is most likely what inspired me to go underwater as well, at first i started with an h50 then decided i wanted to get a loop going just a simple one to start with cpu only so i went with the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit and set my first loop up today. I must admit that i would have had no idea where to start had i not done some research (on this site







) so i took my time and tested everything just for that extra sense of security and heres what i managed to put together on my first attempt, i know its not the best and i will be putting some more work into it when im not half asleep like i am right now lolz.









































































I hope that meets the standard for the club.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dagewfdasf*


blue leds and white tubes look good


LOL dont quote the pictures


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brl3git*


First off i must say ive seen some really sick builds in this thread with some amazing cooling and routing that i didnt even know was possible. I'll be honest this thread is most likely what inspired me to go underwater as well, at first i started with an h50 then decided i wanted to get a loop going just a simple one to start with cpu only so i went with the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit and set my first loop up today. I must admit that i would have had no idea where to start had i not done some research (on this site







) so i took my time and tested everything just for that extra sense of security and heres what i managed to put together on my first attempt, i know its not the best and i will be putting some more work into it when im not half asleep like i am right now lolz.


that looks like a 5.25" bay res, why not have it in the bay?


----------



## brl3git

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


that looks like a 5.25" bay res, why not have it in the bay?


Honestly spent about 20 mins trying to make it fit, everything i tired just would not work.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brl3git*


Honestly spent about 20 mins trying to make it fit, everything i tired just would not work.


You have to file or dremel the 5.25" bay tabs. I had to do the same with my ATCS 840.


----------



## dagewfdasf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
LOL dont quote the pictures

My bad...


----------



## eloverton2

dagewfdasf has not made any friends yet


----------



## dagewfdasf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
dagewfdasf has not made any friends yet

I made one more than you...


----------



## brl3git

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
You have to file or dremel the 5.25" bay tabs. I had to do the same with my ATCS 840.

Damn i was going to say if there were any obvious way such as fitting it in from the inside then sliding it to the front of the case i would have found it, but i realized theres no way in hell it would fit without some sort of bending/dremeling.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Will i gain something if i use shrouds in PULL config? (I dont have space for another fan to push)
Ex: RAD -> Shroud -> FAN
Or is it better without the shroud?

PS: It looks like its worth it, 2ÂºC drop and less noise i did 4 shrouds (with 4 old 120x25mm fans )for the 2x 240 rads i am using Ultra Kazes 2k


----------



## Lost-boi

I have my top rad in a pull config with custom 38mm shrouds and it works great.


----------



## bundymania

My new Res. in Action


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## airplaneman

Wow bundymania, that is a really sweet res!


----------



## EditeD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Wow bundymania, that is a really sweet res!

Agreed to a thousand!


----------



## Jelah

Update









Not finished yet, i want to clean up some of the cuts on the tubing (i did a terrible job on the res inlet) But here it is









I cant believe how well the pump top worked, this thing is pushing a lot of water now, took like 3min to fill the entire loop vs an hour plus with my old set up









Also, is my res filled too high?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Sweet I open my box from jab-tech to find that my tubing is the wrong damn color.


----------



## koven

bundy, how do you like that res? i'm planning on getting the same one w/ mcp655


----------



## gdawg33

updated


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Update









Not finished yet, i want to clean up some of the cuts on the tubing (i did a terrible job on the res inlet) But here it is









I cant believe how well the pump top worked, this thing is pushing a lot of water now, took like 3min to fill the entire loop vs an hour plus with my old set up









Also, is my res filled too high?

Thats just about right.

Also, loop looks good.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Also, is my res filled too high?

No thats fine, you could actually use a little more.
Whats not fine is the fact that it looks like you have the tubes on your GTZ backwards. The inlet is marked by a dot next to the hole on the CPU block.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Sweet I open my box from jab-tech to find that my tubing is the wrong damn color.

Sent them an email and they are sending me the right color


----------



## UTT

Swiftech H20-220 Apex Ultima XT


----------



## [CyGnus]

Jelah if i were you i would use some zip ties or clamps on those tubes....


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]* 
Jelah if i were you i would use some zip ties or clamps on those tubes....

This. I don't care how secure they might be I still wouldn't want the chance that they pop off.


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Yeah Def get some clamps on that thing.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
updated

you do not have the power to do that in this thread.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lowbudgethooker* 
Yeah Def get some clamps on that thing.

i only use clamps on certain parts but i take the risk of leaving most clamps off.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
you do not have the power to do that in this thread.









i used to.









oh how i've missed entering data into spreadsheets.
oh wait, i hated it.


----------



## Jelah

Thanks guys







Yeah i've got some zip ties, just didnt get a chance to put them on before work. Gonna throw some on there when i get home. And yes it looks like i did use the wrong inlet! Is that going to make a big difference with temps?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
i used to.









oh how i've missed entering data into spreadsheets.
oh wait, i hated it.

haha, yea, you and several other people, but I figured it would be a good idea to keep it at one person at a time.

edit: I see what you did there.









yea, it was pretty terrible, thanks again for your and everyone else's help with that.


----------



## JE Nightmare

mmhmm, i had nothing better to do those few days. good way to keep me busy.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
TAnd yes it looks like i did use the wrong inlet! Is that going to make a big difference with temps?

Yes it can make a difference. Also switching the inlet position can shave ~5Â°C as well.


----------



## Morizuno

anyone here have a picture w/ clamps on their loop? All I can see are compression fittings, but I want to see the difference between the two for my next loop (metal clamps that are reusable)


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
anyone here have a picture w/ clamps on their loop? All I can see are compression fittings, but I want to see the difference between the two for my next loop (metal clamps that are reusable)

I don't have metal clamps..because they look really ugly and can slice tubing open if you aren't careful, but I do have the plastic ones on my GPU. I find they work fairly good.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
anyone here have a picture w/ clamps on their loop? All I can see are compression fittings, but I want to see the difference between the two for my next loop (metal clamps that are reusable)

Something like this?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
i used to.









oh how i've missed entering data into spreadsheets.
oh wait, i hated it.

Lol, I actually didn't mind doing it. I enjoy simple tasks like that









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Something like this?
*snip*

I've used those in all of my loops thus far. Ugly as heck but once nice and tight you'll rarely see a leak.


----------



## AdvanSuper

You could get color matched zip ties. I have green ones for my green tubing.


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Something like this?
*snip*

is that the MSI Techbench that was a freebie a few weeks ago?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
is that the MSI Techbench that was a freebie a few weeks ago?

Sunbeam Ultra Tech Station (UV Blue)


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Sunbeam Ultra Tech Station (UV Blue)

ok thank you to me it looked like the MSI one


----------



## Morizuno

plastic doesn't look to bad, what did you use for everything else?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
plastic doesn't look to bad, what did you use for everything else?

Who are you referring to?


----------



## Morizuno

the res and cpu


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
*Who* are you referring to?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
the res and cpu


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
the res and cpu









I take it you meant me then... I'm not using clamps on the CPU since the tubing fits tight enough and it doesn't leak, as for the res I'm using zip-ties. They provide better clamping force than the plastic clamps, but they aren't re-usable.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 









Rofl!


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Yes it can make a difference. Also switching the inlet position can shave ~5Â°C as well.

Thanks for the tip







Drained out my rad and the res, and switched them around, i seriously am in disbelief of how easy it is to drain and fill with this new pump top adding so much more power to my pump, and the res just making everything so simple







Im loving it!!! Now to find my windows 7 disk...









Also, i zip tied everything up, so i wont have any leaaks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

fan controller + Classy Machine's Liquid fusion res =


You Tube


----------



## AdvanSuper

Fancy


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Classy









i fixed if for you


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Fancy









I know right?









I was so surprised at how the cathode reacted on the fan controller, I feel like there is an awesome idea for a mod in there somewhere.


----------



## gdawg33

I wonder if you could rig it up like the sound activated cathodes?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Striker36* 
i fixed if for you









haha, truth.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
I wonder if you could rig it up like the sound activated cathodes?

I am actually pretty sure that they are the same thing, just instead of having the reostat set by a knob it is set along with sound waves.


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, truth.









I am actually pretty sure that they are the same thing, just instead of having the reostat set by a knob it is set along with sound waves.

that's what I was thinking too. What other mods did you have in mind?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
that's what I was thinking too. What other mods did you have in mind?

you mean for my build? check out the worklog in my sig. ;-)


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
you mean for my build? check out the worklog in my sig. ;-)

more of the cathode and yes I have been to your thread and subbed just haven't made a post.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
more of the cathode and yes I have been to your thread and subbed just haven't made a post.

no, no more plans for the cathode. not sure what else you really can do with a cathode...

and what i did is barely a mod, I just hooked it up to a fan controller.


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
no, no more plans for the cathode. not sure what else you really can do with a cathode...

and what i did is barely a mod, I just hooked it up to a fan controller. 

with the awesomeness of your computer I thought you had something up your sleeve. but I was wrong and also I forgot to say but...

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
updated

great, now it's you AND sky doing it...


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
great, now it's you AND sky doing it...









I am going to start a petition so me and ski have privileges to say it. You can talk to my lawyer monday-friday 7:30 A.M-6:00 P.M.









P.S ask for Mr. Gates.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
I am going to start a petition so me and ski have privileges to say it. You can talk to my lawyer monday-friday 7:30 A.M-6:00 P.M.









P.S ask for Mr. Gates.

haha, are you saying you WANT to have to updated this thread every day?

I may be willing to part with the responsibility if you are that set on it.


----------



## lenneth13

Hi

I want to post my pictures
I built it from scratch today. Wired and water cooled
































































XSPC Rasa
EK FC480 GTX Nickel X2
Swiftech MCP 355
Swiftech MCR320
XSPC Acrylic Reservoir Top for Laing DDC
Bitspower 1/2"
Primochill 7/16" ID 5/8" OD LRT Tubing
Danger Den SLI fittings
Distilled Water
&
GFG COMPUTER =D


----------



## JE Nightmare

weirdest color scheme i've seen by far.


----------



## fastsite

@lenneth13 that has to be the coolest color mix i have ever seen







need red dye though haha


----------



## [seandotcom]

i <3 water cooling


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
great, now it's you AND sky doing it...









SKI!
Not Sky









S-K-I Ughhhh!!!

Updated yo Face


----------



## lenneth13

Its snake style Â©


----------



## brl3git

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


fan controller + Classy Machine's Liquid fusion res =

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlJTkXt1aGM


Even if this is a simple mod, its probably the sickest thing ive seen when it comes to the T-virus.


----------



## jadawgis732

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Warfarin88*












You ever look at something so beautiful that your heart sinks a little? Yeah...
Anyway...


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Lian Li a05. Now the kids machine.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
fan controller + Classy Machine's Liquid fusion res =

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlJTkXt1aGM

So cool! Looks like a freaking reactor is about to explode or something crazy like that


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
So cool! Looks like a freaking reactor is about to explode or something crazy like that









i want one







they are just way too expensive.... one of them with a black and green Helix... with the cathode half on in my build like a fuel rod being half out of the containment block....








i can dream...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
So cool! Looks like a freaking reactor is about to explode or something crazy like that









I know right! so cool!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Striker36* 
i want one







they are just way too expensive.... one of them with a black and green Helix... with the cathode half on in my build like a fuel rod being half out of the containment block....








i can dream...

Get one! they are not that expensive compared to any other high quality tube res. the IandH ones are like $70 right?


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

I know right! so cool!

Get one! they are not that expensive compared to any other high quality tube res. the IandH ones are like $70 right?

i still need to say that...

YES!

i got my EK res for 40 shipped... i just couldn't justify 120 bucks for a 160mm inch res when i could get the EK one which works just as well in my rig for 1/3 the price....









i wich i could get one though.. lol


----------



## Bolt_Thrower_

CPU Block: XSPC RASA
Pump/Res: XSPC X2O 750
Rads: Magicool Extreme 240mmX2
Tubing: Primochill 7/16" UV
Compression Fittings: EK 12mm


----------



## gdawg33

updated


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bolt_Thrower_*


*snip*

CPU Block: XSPC RASA
Pump/Res: XSPC X2O 750
Rads: Magicool Extreme 240mmX2
Tubing: Primochill 7/16" UV
Compression Fittings: EK 12mm







































nice rig. u gotta wc ur 6970 when you get it?


----------



## Bolt_Thrower_

Yeah I prolly will. well see when i get it. depends on how well it OCs and how hot it is.


----------



## koven

guys, what do you think about the following loop... another OCN member is selling for $250

Ek Supreme HF Universal Block Nickel + Acetal
Ek Multioption V2 Res Advance 250ml
XSPC RX360 radiator
MCP350 pump with XSPC Acetal Top

15x black 1/2" barbs and clamps, PT Nuke, 3x yate loon fans

going in my 700D

any thoughts on the price or parts? i'll be cooling a i7 930 + GTX470

does anyone know if i can fit another rad in my 700D w/o modification? the is 360 going up top

should i get another 120 where the rear fan is? is it worth it?

can i fit a 240 at the bottom? what would i have to mod?

thanks


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lenneth13*


Hi

I want to post my pictures
I built it from scratch today. Wired and water cooled

*snip*

XSPC Rasa
EK FC480 GTX Nickel X2
Swiftech MCP 355 
Swiftech MCR320
XSPC Acrylic Reservoir Top for Laing DDC 
Bitspower 1/2"
Primochill 7/16" ID 5/8" OD LRT Tubing
Danger Den SLI fittings 
Distilled Water 
&
GFG COMPUTER =D


Can you resize your pictures please? They're HUGE.


----------



## lenneth13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Can you resize your pictures please? They're HUGE.


they re-size when they load


----------



## Striker36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lenneth13*


they re-size when they load


yea thats the problem. they take FOREVER to load for some people.... their is really no reason for any thing bigger than 1000x1000 on a forum.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lenneth13*


they re-size when they load


That's not the point... You posted 18MB worth of images that could easily be re-sized down. Not everyone has a fast internet connection...


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Hey Striker, There is a guy in the for sale forum who is selling a red helix res for $75 shipped. I bought the incomplete blue one.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

check out today's updates in my worklog and leave a comment or you are not a cool person, ok?  (link in sig)


----------



## razorguy

Enzotech Sapphire CPU block
HW Labs Black Ice GTX 360 with high speed Panaflo's
Swiftech MCP655-B and the Swiftech micro res
Saint-Gobain 7/16" ID 5/8" OD tubing
1/2" barbs all around


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AutoItKing

Not very glamorous, but I'm working on it!

Parts:

Apogee XT
MCP350 w/XSPC top
XSPC bay res
Thermochill PA120.3


----------



## gdawg33

updated


----------



## NrGx

XSPC have some silver compression fittings for $4.50 each - are they equal to EK ones?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
updated

seriously, don't do that in this thread. I don't care if you do it after things I post in other threads, but it is annoying in here.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
seriously, don't do that in this thread. I don't care if you do it after things I post in other threads, but it is annoying in here.









mmhmm


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
seriously, don't do that in this thread. I don't care if you do it after things I post in other threads, but it is annoying in here.

I agree with Kevin, its funny to do it once, but repeating it isnt cool anyways


----------



## jacobthellamer

Just Cleaned and tidied my loop.

There was a hell of a lot of dust in the rad but it was easy enough to clean. Added three 90Â° bitspower connections to tidy up the tubing and help airflow.


----------



## SimpleTech

How do you get that much..

Ah I get it. There must have been a volcano eruption and you left your window open.


----------



## Morizuno

What do you guys think of this loop?

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/5052/gnnnn.png

Do I have enough fittings and tubing, my case is an 800d


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
What do you guys think of this loop?

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/5052/gnnnn.png

Do I have enough fittings and tubing, my case is an 800d

well for starters you need a pump


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
well for starters you need a pump









it is a combo w/ the res


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
it is a combo w/ the res

true haha every thing else looks good to me


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

also, check out the new avatar.









will be better pics tomorrow, promise.


----------



## alancsalt

The logic of this: CM690 II Advanced has a mesh top. I didn't want to pull warm air out of the case into the radiator, or push warm air from the radiator into the case. I also wanted to be able to access the hot swappable drive cavity on top of the case at front, so;










I have moved on from a Corsair H50.









It's also posted at the CM690 thread, so some of you will have seen it already. Not complete yet, so untidy fan wires edited out courtesy of Photoshop. Fans on other side of radiator. Parts list below in Australian dollars.

2 Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2 ID $29.90
1 XSPC RX360 Radiator $129.00
1 Arctic Cooling MX-3 Thermal Compound (4g) $12.00
1 XSPC Acrylic Bay Reservoir for Laing DDC Pumps $69.00
8 EK 12mm High Flow Fitting G1/4 $28.00
3 Yate Loon 120mm D12SM-12 Case Fan $36.00
1 Laing DDC 3.25 12V 18W Version $109.00
1 KoolRoom Silver KR Silver $15.00
1 EKWB-SUPREME HF-FULL NICKEL 3830046990235 $109.00

Total: $688.50 after GST(Tax) and Transport.

Clamps from local hardware. Distilled water too.


----------



## FannBlade

OK you can add me I'm finally finished. Excuse the purple (UV blue) hose I meant to order black. you can see more pics on my build log.


----------



## ny_driver

That's a cool case dude.......if I had a case I would want one like that.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jacobthellamer* 
Just Cleaned and tidied my loop.

There was a hell of a lot of dust in the rad but it was easy enough to clean. Added three 90Â° bitspower connections to tidy up the tubing and help airflow.


























Holy hair ball Batman!! Glad you got that cleaned up. That's why I run a HEPA filter in my computer room 24/7 I hate cleaning dust.

Looks alot better clean and with the new fittings!


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ny_driver* 
That's a cool case dude.......if I had a case I would want one like that.

Thanks it was a lot of fun to build.


----------



## ny_driver

It is good to vacuum it out once in awhile.....it looks like the lint trap from a clothes dryer.


----------



## ny_driver

Check this picture out..... http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1480939

Still climbing


----------



## Sizuke

My first water cooling attempt, nothing special but im very happy with the results, i hope i can qualify for this thread


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

Diggin' the space invader man!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sizuke* 
My first water cooling attempt, nothing special but im very happy with the results, i hope i can qualify for this thread


















Do you have the name of those fans for me? I like them


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## CookieSayWhat

Looks quite red!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat* 
Looks quite red!

yep!









normally I disapprove of flash, but that shot just looked too cool to not post.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

That shot looks really cool indeed


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 










That's a perfect color match.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FannBlade* 
That's a perfect color match.









yea, to bad it ranges anywhere from a perfect match like that to being COMPLETELY wrong depending on the lighting...


----------



## mm67

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Do you have the name of those fans for me? I like them









Those are Akasa Viper's. I also use couple of those with a Swiftech rad.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mm67* 
Those are Akasa Viper's. I also use couple of those with a Swiftech rad.

Thanks








I'll think about them if I'll do an other project


----------



## Bolt_Thrower_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yea, to bad it ranges anywhere from a perfect match like that to being COMPLETELY wrong depending on the lighting...









I hear that! Your rig looks real nice tho! I think im going to go red and black for my next build.


----------



## Kinru

For someone who owns the 800d/700d, how much vertical space is there in the bottom compartment? From floor to that ceiling. Thanks


----------



## Bolt_Thrower_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kinru* 
For someone who owns the 800d/700d, how much vertical space is there in the bottom compartment? From floor to that ceiling. Thanks

Hey you stole my question!! LOLz J/K. But I would like to know that as well because ive been thinking about getting a 700D if i could fit my 2 240mms down there plus a 360mm up top!


----------



## Kinru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bolt_Thrower_* 
Hey you stole my question!! LOLz J/K. But I would like to know that as well because ive been thinking about getting a 700D if i could fit my 2 240mms down there plus a 360mm up top!

Haha we're thinking the same thing I guess XD, cept for the 2 240s, I don't have that kind of money


----------



## kevingreenbmx

getting closer to being able to say UPDATED for another of my own posts!



























Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bolt_Thrower_* 
I hear that! Your rig looks real nice tho! I think im going to go red and black for my next build.

thanks man!









be sure to post a work log.


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
How do you get that much..

Ah I get it. There must have been a volcano eruption and you left your window open.









lol, I have no idea where it all come from.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FannBlade* 
Holy hair ball Batman!! Glad you got that cleaned up. That's why I run a HEPA filter in my computer room 24/7 I hate cleaning dust.

Looks alot better clean and with the new fittings!

Cheers









Do you have one of these?
http://www.hepafilters.com/products....dID=1&itemID=1


----------



## ttoadd.nz

That looks killer Kevin, great work bro!


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jacobthellamer*


Do you have one of these?
http://www.hepafilters.com/products....dID=1&itemID=1


 Yep just like that only about 100 times smaller LOL


----------



## GoodInk




----------



## Striker36

i love a WCed scout


----------



## Bolt_Thrower_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 































































Very nice! Good work!


----------



## wermad

Im glad to see the xspc kits, especially the pump/res x20-750.

these guys are waiting for the 800D to arrive:


----------



## rubema

Hi,

Some Pic's of my new Upgrading Build, will post new pic as soon as i am done (Soon).

Thank You


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rubema* 
Hi,

Some Pic's of my new Upgrading Build, will post new pic as soon as i am done (Soon).

Thank You

nice! what kind of brackets are those on the top rad?


----------



## rubema

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
nice! what kind of brackets are those on the top rad?









Thanks.

Actually those are my Speakers stands


----------



## JE Nightmare

finally rebuilding the case, again. Most of it is done just have to paint and nail the rest down. Don't think it turned out to bad seeing how I've spent less the $30 on the wood to build two half ass cases.







. Will post pictures tomorrow after work and when paint dries.


----------



## trippinonprozac

2 days work and I have finally finished putting the 240 rad at the bottom of the HAF 932.

Pretty happy with the results, though I still need to do my case lighting and cable management.


----------



## [CyGnus]

its nice though you can put come fittings to that VGA the tube is just too long


----------



## trippinonprozac

yeah it will be changed, it was just at the time I didnt have the PSU in there and I couldnt get it to clear a fitting at the bottom.

I will fix it this week.


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac* 
yeah it will be changed, it was just at the time I didnt have the PSU in there and I couldnt get it to clear a fitting at the bottom.

I will fix it this week.

i dont think it looks that bad


----------



## Cyanix

Two 90Â°s Bitspower rotary fittings would be ideal.

Nice cutting job on the Hdd bay.

Still trying to find out a way to remove this bloody bay without using my dremmel though.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rubema* 







Thanks.

Actually those are my Speakers stands









That's what I like ingenuity at work.

Sharp looking rig.


----------



## rubema

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FannBlade* 
That's what I like ingenuity at work.

Sharp looking rig.

Thank you









Will post some more pictures soon when i am DONE!


----------



## MokFlurry




----------



## Sizuke

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
Do you have the name of those fans for me? I like them









They Akasa Viper
http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?t...model=AK-FN059


----------



## [CyGnus]

Very nice fans indeed


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sizuke* 
They Akasa Viper
http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?t...model=AK-FN059

Thanks


----------



## sndstream

Sup everyone...I've been working here and there on my rig. I'm building on the Lian Li Armorsuit pc80 and like many it's a red on black theme mostly since I'm using an Asus Crosshair IV Formula. She'll be torn down in the Spring to fit a MIPS ram cooler as the loop is too busy to fit y adapters to smaller non red tubing and generally was a bad purchase but oh wells. I'll add another mcp655 and go EK 5.25 dual top, add one more gtx480, and step up to a new flavor of videocard, most likely a 580. Been toying w/the idea of a Koolance h20 psu but it's not really a priority. Biggest goal is to consolidate the loop to all 3/4" tubing as the black 8mm is killing me. No real loop constriction as it's a huge yadapter but still annoying to look at. I'll maybe start a worklog but figured I'd share a bit.

Lian Li pc80
AMD 965 Black
Asus Crosshair IV Formula
Mushin Redline QVM 4gb
EVGA gtx285
OCZ Turbo SSD's plus a few 1tb WD's
Cooling:
Swiftech GTZ Cpu block
EK Msofet/NB/SB Acetal/Nickel
Swiftech GPU BLock
Phobya Ram waterblocks
Swiftech mcp655
Blackice GTX Xtreme 480 rad
Feser 3/4" tubing
Bitspower compression fittings
EK Bay Reservoir
Distilled h20 with all the chemicals you need
Enermax and Lian Li fans


































































































I have boatloads of pics but I need to get more organized. Any comments and more importantly advice would be great. There's a lot of knowledge goin round here and some of that has really influenced my install prefs mainly going with 1 loop vs multiple. Anyways, hope you like what ya saw if not well there's always more revisions coming


----------



## gdawg33

Nice build but I do agree that the 8mm tubing does take away from it but it is still an amazing build great job.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyanix*


Two 90Â°s Bitspower rotary fittings would be ideal.

Nice cutting job on the Hdd bay.

Still trying to find out a way to remove this bloody bay without using my dremmel though.


the hdd bay?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*


That looks killer Kevin, great work bro!


thanks man! 

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rubema*













hey man, what do you actually have water cooled in there? in the pics you have it looks like the GPU has the stock cooler, and there is a fan over the CPU... got any internal pics?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sndstream*













is there a reason you have the ram blocks like that? I would figure it would be better to run them in parallel sing you have those y fittings...

as you have it, i cannot imagine there is much flow through them since there is so much less restriction through the large hose...


----------



## [seandotcom]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


hey man, what do you actually have water cooled in there? in the pics you have it looks like the GPU has the stock cooler, and there is a fan over the CPU... got any internal pics?


i think i actually see the GPU has a block on it. dunno about the CPU though.


----------



## sndstream

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

thanks man! 

hey man, what do you actually have water cooled in there? in the pics you have it looks like the GPU has the stock cooler, and there is a fan over the CPU... got any internal pics?

is there a reason you have the ram blocks like that? I would figure it would be better to run them in parallel sing you have those y fittings...

as you have it, i cannot imagine there is much flow through them since there is so much less restriction through the large hose...


I tried running them parallel but every tubing I've tried kinked off. I then spent a looooong time looking for 8mm compression fittings and nothing panned out. The phobya's are a uk spec type thing so hunting down what I need has been a pita. I need 5/16 id thread. In January it'll be moot as Im switching to MIPS as the whole setup at that part blows lol. If you're asking me about me gpu, Im just using the mcp60 Swiftech h20 block and Swiftech heatsink as they came with my original kit. Again, I cant see goin balls out on an EK fc when I know in January I'm pulling them out. As far as restriction and flow, there a boatload of flow lol, but was concerned like you about them even getting coolant. This was evidenced by testing the loop and have one end come off while on the mobo and it sprayed out like a garden hose







Paper towels did no justice that night.........


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bolt_Thrower_*


Very nice! Good work!


Thanks


----------



## Striker36

NOT MY BUILD! IM POSTING FOR Crimson0 as i have the pictures of his build thus far.


























sorry for the bad quality pictures... im going to try and get some better ones at some point if i can get over Crimsons place

build link
http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...ers-house.html


----------



## rubema

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey man, what do you actually have water cooled in there? in the pics you have it looks like the GPU has the stock cooler, and there is a fan over the CPU... got any internal pics?


Hi, Actually i am cooling CPU, NB and 1 GPU, and yes the fan is for my x stock Gigabyte Block. But it has been changed to RASA instead.

I am in a process of changing all my Gigabyte 3D mercury cooling kit and i already did, but still waiting my new Swiftech 655, and then i will be ready with my new MODDED RESERVOIR to fix the 2nd loop.

I will be posting a new pictures for every thing i made as soon as i am done!

This is my Old stock Gigabyte Block (I just get rid of it)


















My new Rasa










And its ready to go










New pictures in the way


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Striker36* 
NOT MY BUILD! IM POSTING FOR Crimson0 as i have the pictures of his build thus far.

hey, I am gonna wait till he can post the pics himself to add that to the list ok? makes things simpler.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

hey, I am gonna wait till he can post the pics himself to add that to the list ok? makes things simpler.

works for me. i just felt like posting them here i as i had them and was posting them a few other places


----------



## JE Nightmare

Not the best hand made case, but for my needs it's perfect.







( and a lot less heavier then the 902. )


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated! (from classy for the first time since all the recent work







)


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


Not the best hand made case, but for my needs it's perfect.







( and a lot less heavier then the 902. )


That doesn't look as bad as you make it out to be








Maybe ditch the 80mm Raidmax fan; and clean up, or hide, the wiring a bit


----------



## Kinru

For anyone using QDCs. Is it ok to use 7/16 with the 1/2 barb koolance QDCs? Was planning on putting 2 in my rad, but they don't make 7/16 comp fittings so was wondering if I could do that instead.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kinru*


For anyone using QDCs. Is it ok to use 7/16 with the 1/2 barb koolance QDCs? Was planning on putting 2 in my rad, but they don't make 7/16 comp fittings so was wondering if I could do that instead.


I don't see why it won't work. 7/16's tubing will fit over 1/2" barbs. Just heat up some distilled water and dip the ends of the tubing in for a few seconds to make it easier to push onto the barbs.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

MWAHAHAHAHAHA!

Classy now has enough radiators that I can run prime95 at 4.0ghz with 1.4v vcore without going over 80c on the cores!

although, i must saddly say, the temps are not much lower with the fans on... around 68-72c on the cores.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


MWAHAHAHAHAHA!

Classy now has enough radiators that I can run prime95 at 4.0ghz with 1.4v vcore without going over 80c on the cores!

although, i must saddly say, the temps are not much lower with the fans on... around 68-72c on the cores.


Get a Can of Compressed air
and Turn it upside Down 
Then Spray it into the Rad!

That should lower your temps to about 20'C


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Get a Can of Compressed air
and Turn it upside Down 
Then Spray it into the Rad!

That should lower your temps to about 20'C


or, get as many buckets as you have rads and a crap load of tubing.

bam, slush box.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I am happy with my sustainable and silent temps now.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Another 240 Rad and 2 more GPU blocks ordered will update rig pics as soon as i get the stuff hope my pump is up to the job


----------



## Timechange01

I would officially like to apply to join this club. My first water cooling loop (completed on Saturday November 13, 2010):


----------



## fastsite

hurray just lost my virginity to colored water cooling specific tubing!








BIX II in the front and an RX120 in the back.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timechange01*


I would officially like to apply to join this club. My first water cooling loop (completed on Saturday November 13, 2010):











why one clear tube?


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timechange01*


I would officially like to apply to join this club. My first water cooling loop (completed on Saturday November 13, 2010):


any reason you are running dual channel memory?


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


Not the best hand made case, but for my needs it's perfect.







( and a lot less heavier then the 902. )

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/8530/p1000735jj.jpg

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/3760/p1000737.jpg


your rig is sexy


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
your rig is sexy









do ya really think so?


----------



## fastsite

yes sir i do haha


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
why one clear tube?

This is my first loop. I wanted to see the water being pumped and make sure everything was working properly


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Timechange01* 
This is my first loop. I wanted to see the water being pumped and make sure everything was working properly









Good idea


----------



## motoray

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Timechange01* 
This is my first loop. I wanted to see the water being pumped and make sure everything was working properly









lol nothing like the paranoia of your first loop. Looks good man!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

and how does the clear tube help you see if the water is moving or not?









once it is full it will just look the same moving or still.

your rig looks good though.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated.

and how does the clear tube help you see if the water is moving or not?









once it is full it will just look the same moving or still.

your rig looks good though.









It's more for when you're filling it up. You watch all those teeny little air bubbles speed through the loop. Watching them is one of my favourite parts of putting a loop together haha. I always miss them when they disappear.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

haha, in my loops they always seem to move so fast I cannot see them...

I do have darker tubing though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Timechange01* 
I would officially like to apply to join this club. My first water cooling loop (completed on Saturday November 13, 2010):









very nice! a set up like this gives more and more giddiness for my upcoming build using white tube and the 800D, can't wait









btw: no harm in running dual channel on a 1366 platform.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
btw: no harm in running dual channel on a 1366 platform.

Correct. The gains from dual to triple are not great enough to worry about to a general user.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lost-boi* 
Correct. The gains from dual to triple are not great enough to worry about to a general user.

That's right. This thread (below) explains it quite well actually.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...mory-both.html


----------



## tat2monsta

back on air for a while.
will return one day


----------



## L36

In please.








Pic bit old, already done the cable management.


----------



## mrtomek

looking real messy in there mate, show us when you do the cable management


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrtomek* 
looking real messy in there mate, show us when you do the cable management

Guess you missed the part where he said "Pic bit old, already done the cable management"


----------



## L36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrtomek* 
looking real messy in there mate, show us when you do the cable management

Camera battery died. Il take a new pic sometime.


----------



## mrtomek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Guess you missed the part where he said "Pic bit old, already done the cable management"

nope, I read that.


----------



## OverSightX

I just moved over to an 800D from a 932. Sorry for the horrible pics, but I can't find my camera.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrtomek* 
nope, I read that.

K well your post didn't really imply that you had read that part.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


Originally Posted by *motoray* 
lol nothing like the paranoia of your first loop. Looks good man!

Oh, so true... I the whole 24 hour test separate from hardware, tucking paper towel everywhere on first boot... LOL Now I just kinda test for 10 minutes without rig running, but loop on, and go for it. Best way to do it...


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SwishaMane* 
Oh, so true... I the whole 24 hour test separate from hardware, tucking paper towel everywhere on first boot... LOL Now I just kinda test for 10 minutes without rig running, but loop on, and go for it. Best way to do it...

10 minutes?! wow that's 8 more then me.


----------



## whipple16

That's about what I do too.
Finish loop.
Fill loop.
Jumper 24 pin and run loop for 10 mins.
Stare at it for 5 mins.
Plug everything in and hope for the best


----------



## wermad

I'm paranoid, two hours is good enough for me







, i jump start the psu & only power on the pump.


----------



## Striker36

am i the only one that lets the rig run when filling? XD

the first time i screwed every thing in and jumped the PSU and filled it that way and let it sit for 10 mins. if its not dripping in 10 its probably not.


----------



## mekaw

This is very newbie question but what does OCN stand for? overclock.net?


----------



## wermad

i fill the res, I have a squeeze bottle with a U-shaped straw (nylon), power on the pump only, fill immediately or as needed, don't want to run dry


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mekaw* 
This is very newbie question but what does OCN stand for? overclock.net?

Over
Clock
Net


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

I run a longer leak test, but that is because my first loop ever I had no apparent leaks until 33 hours of leak testing and then the res decided to start watering my DVD drive...

and this last loop that I just got together I found 4 different things that where leaking, all at separate times. (2 of them only after letting the loop run for about an hour)


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mekaw* 
This is very newbie question but what does OCN stand for? overclock.net?

thats going in my sig for sure.


----------



## cj3waker

still a work in progress


----------



## mekaw

^ looks like milk!


----------



## mav2000

Heres mine all done:




























Log is in my sig


----------



## EditeD

Some pictures I took when I helped a friend of mine to strip down his build for cleaning. Enjoy.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Striker36* 
am i the only one that lets the rig run when filling? XD

the first time i screwed every thing in and jumped the PSU and filled it that way and let it sit for 10 mins. if its not dripping in 10 its probably not.

Nope your not the only one. Empty system dump some water power up-turn off repeat. Watch for leaks while benching vid cards!! LOL


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mav2000*


Heres mine all done

Log is in my sig


Looks damn nice...

Thanks to all the w/c fittings manufactures for compression fittings. Barbs, with or without clamps, looks cheesy. Not only do they look great, but are easier to install... SALTY, but sweet.

EDIT: I filled my latest loop while the system ran. Simple res/pump combo to rad, to cpu, to res. Pretty efficient way to do it. I take that back, I think I disconnected the CPU power cable so the system wouldn't actually boot. So Im a li3r...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

I run a longer leak test, but that is because my first loop ever I had no apparent leaks until 33 hours of leak testing and then the res decided to start watering my DVD drive...

and this last loop that I just got together I found 4 different things that where leaking, all at separate times. (2 of them only after letting the loop run for about an hour)


I have a FrozenQ res on my main that, if you sealed the loop by tightening fillport, the bottom would SLOWLY leak after a couple hours of off-time through a super tiny crack somewhere. If I leave the fillport cracked, it doesn't leak, so... fillport is LIGHTLY cracked open at all times, lol.

How did so many things leak? Besides a couple small res related leaks in my past, nothing has ever had a problem, and Ive used both barbs and comp. fittings, specific cpu blocks and universal ones, etc...


----------



## t-ramp

Got my loop set up and running last night (this morning, technically







). Had a small leak from a fitting on my CPU block but I was able to crank it down and stop that. Other than that, it turned out pretty good, and my 355 is actually quieter than I expected.









Pics sometime soonish.


----------



## bundymania

Today, a very little radiator came to my house


----------



## rubema

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Today, a very little radiator came to my house










WOW.. what is this? CAR Rad







I like it, i think with this one you can water cool every thing you have at once.. AMAZING!!

From where you got it,, can you provide LINK, i want to buy one like that.


----------



## t-ramp

Not sure about the 140mm version Bundymania has, but here is the MO-RA3 9x 120mm.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys!

If you know of anyone here on OCN who needs a new case and has been a proven member of OCN, head over and check out the contest FannBlade started:


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Today, a very little radiator came to my house



















Think that would cool my old dual core and a GTX6600?









Can't wait to see it faned up!


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rubema*


WOW.. what is this? CAR Rad







I like it, i think with this one you can water cool every thing you have at once.. AMAZING!!

From where you got it,, can you provide LINK, i want to buy one like that.


The producing company watercool.de sent me this monster to include it in my upcoming test. There are Versions for 120mm, 180mm and 140mm fans. Core- LT and Pro Variants, where you can mount up to 18 fans !








There are white- and black Moras and optional fan grills and rad feet.
I think itÂ´s a bit difficult atm to get a Mora in the states, but hopefully they will be available in many shops soon ! Here in germany, some mora versions are quite rare too ! Many users want those monsters, because they are the ultimate rads what is possible in radiator cooling performance right now







(Wow....sounds like a slogan from the %$Â§/() feser boys, but this time itÂ´s true and not just marketing blahblah)














































..and some pics from my actual project:


----------



## rubema

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


The producing company watercool.de sent me this monster to include it in my upcoming test. There are Versions for 120mm, 180mm and 140mm fans. Core- LT and Pro Variants, where you can mount up to 18 fans !








There are white- and black Moras and optional fan grills and rad feet.
I think itÂ´s a bit difficult atm to get a Mora in the states, but hopefully they will be available in many shops soon ! Here in germany, some mora versions are quite rare too ! Many users want those monsters, because they are the ultimate rads what is possible in radiator cooling performance right now







(Wow....sounds like a slogan from the %$Â§/() feser boys, but this time itÂ´s true and not just marketing blahblah)



You have one of the best Cases i have ever seen.. Really its so nice and with this rad i think you will never ever see any high temp any more..

Would like really to see some testing/benchmarking with this WOW rad, i think you will beat most of O/Clocking fans









Good Luck


----------



## bundymania

not easy to choose:



















Imagine the plexy top with a white led and white painted mountingplate...


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

white leds


----------



## bundymania

Moo Moo Moo Moooraaaa


----------



## FannBlade

Sweet a hovercraft


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FannBlade*


Sweet a hovercraft


This








That thing is really big, now fit it inside a case!


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Dude, you need MOAR rad!


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Moo Moo Moo Moooraaaa














































meh ive seen bigger.........









you def need more rad


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Moar fans plz!

How loud is it with all those fans going?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*


Moar fans plz!

How loud is it with all those fans going?


seeing how those are 1400 rpm fans, not loud at all really.


----------



## [email protected]

I bet you're gonna get INSANE DUST.. I can't imagine how long it would take to clean EVERY FAN lol.


----------



## wermad

Finally! some progress


----------



## JE Nightmare

should spray paint the box pink, would be dope.


----------



## wermad

uhmmm, that's a temporary mock-up...


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


I bet you're gonna get INSANE DUST.. I can't imagine how long it would take to clean EVERY FAN lol.


Well, i have an assistant, which cleans that mess for me


















ItÂ´s Appetizer Time:

Watercool HTF4 Series - Prototype Parts:



















No more Info yet, just the pics for some speculations


----------



## snelan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.

Specs:
Swiftech MCP655-b
Swiftech MCP655
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech MCW60
Swiftech MicroRes v2
Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
18x High Speed Yate loons.











Lol, thats awesome, the equivalent of a 1080 Rad cooling just a CPU and a GPU. I bet ambient and load mean nothing to you


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
This








That thing is really big, now fit it inside a case!

Wait, THAT'S NOT THE CASE!!!


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Well, i have an assistant, which cleans that mess for me









ItÂ´s Appetizer Time:

Watercool HTF4 Series - Prototype Parts:

No more Info yet, just the pics for some speculations









ARe those acetal end caps on rads? Awesome! And is that bridge-like thing meant for the rads?


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 








No more Info yet, just the pics for some speculations









Bundy, is that the new Feser rad?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_* 
Bundy, is that the new Feser rad?

i don't think so, the ends of the admiral are way different.


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
very nice! a set up like this gives more and more giddiness for my upcoming build using white tube and the 800D, can't wait









btw: no harm in running dual channel on a 1366 platform.

Hehe thanks Im glad you like it!


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Ah...I saw the oval shape of the fins and just assumed.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Finally! some progress



















you appear to be missing a card or two...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

FFFFFFffffffUUUUUUuuuuu......

the light on one of my GTX 280s just turned red...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
you appear to be missing a card or two...

2nd is rma, 3rd one still pending. I was ready to get the 3rd one when I bought a complete block and back plate from an ocn member, then the dude said he dropped it and broke the plexi. I offered him a smaller payment and I would replace the top (ek has em), the guy refused, he refunded my $$$.














, he probably got another offer for it. his story on how he broke it was bizarre too. And I was so ready to jump on another gtx 470, oh well, I got this build to get me going, good thing I still have that blank to cover up the unused port. Everything is still in mock-up, no water at all. still planning it out









btw, sorry to hear about your gtx 280, Im having drama with the one that went rma.


----------



## bundymania

IÂ´ve got some new Products to show for your entertainment


----------



## mav2000

Nice stuff...what are the copper heatsinks for?


----------



## bundymania

Those little "blocks" are for ram and other little chip cooling purposes, when you already have a gpu waterblock. you can mount them with thermal glue.


----------



## bundymania

*Update 11/20/10:*

CPU Waterblock now with Plexy Top, Mounting-& Logo Plate painted white and a light test:


----------



## mastical

Wow looks good.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Noob question here...

How do you put a light in the block like that?


----------



## JE Nightmare

there are holes for led's.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

That's an obvious answer. Do most blocks come with them or is it something specific to that block?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Obvious questions get obvious answers.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

I guess obvious was relative in this case :/


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
there are holes for led's.

thats what she said


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
*Update 11/20/10:*

CPU Waterblock now with Plexy Top, Mounting-& Logo Plate painted white and a light test:

[URL=http://www.abload.de/img/img_9015e5hw.jpg%5BIMG]http://www.abload.de/img/img_9015e5hw.jpg[IMG[/URL]]

[IMG alt=""]http://www.abload.de/img/img_9002cckx.jpg

I hate LED's/Lights, but this looks awesome.


----------



## Rian

Anyone recommend me a good case for my RX480 apart from the TJ07?


----------



## geniusloci

I've changed my system to something more powerful - i7 970 and pair of GTX480, still kept all inside the 800D.

Aquila mkII (you can read more about it here):


----------



## [CyGnus]

CPU Blocks in Plexi have 3mm holes and some RES have 5mm (see pic)

geniusloci very nice setup you have there


----------



## Kinru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*


CPU Blocks in Plexi have 3mm holes and some RES have 5mm (see pic)

geniusloci very nice setup you have there










Do you know where you can get leds that size? I can't find any.


----------



## Rognus

My AMD Rig

Phenom x4 [email protected] TFC 360 Rad, EK CPU and VGA Block Swiftech Res and MCP655 Pump.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Kinru my local store sells them... Just have to look in the local store in your Zone and see if they have any


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rognus*


My AMD Rig

Phenom x4 [email protected] TFC 360 Rad, EK CPU and VGA Block Swiftech Res and MCP655 Pump.










what tubing is that? I really like that color green and my next build will probably be a green theme.

also, great case.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kinru*


Do you know where you can get leds that size? I can't find any.


Performance PC has some, I don't know if this is exactly what works for the application but..

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ath=72_107_837


----------



## Rognus

The tubing is Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT UV Green I got it at NCIX http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...ure=Primochill

It is a great colour and perfect for an AMD build.

Ya I love that case but am really liking my new Obsidian. It just has so much more room.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rognus*


The tubing is Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT UV Green I got it at NCIX http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...ure=Primochill

It is a great colour and perfect for an AMD build.

Ya I love that case but am really liking my new Obsidian. It just has so much more room.











word thanks, have your first +rep

btw, which lian li is that exactly? I know it is a PC-V, but can't tell which. I have the PC-V2010B; It is what Classy Machine is built around.


----------



## Rognus

That Case is the V1010 so it is a bit smaller than the V2010.

Thanks for the rep.


----------



## SimpleTech

Kevin, if you have a Amazon Prime membership.. you can get 10ft of that tubing for

  $16.25 shipped (two-day shipping).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rognus*


That Case is the V1010 so it is a bit smaller than the V2010.

Thanks for the rep.










ah, cool. I suspected that was the one.

and NP









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Kevin, if you have a Amazon Prime membership.. you can get 10ft of that tubing for $16.25 shipped (two-day shipping).


thanks for the link, but it will be a while before I start work on another build. I am still not done with classy and I need to build up some money first.


----------



## ecaftermath

Nice green! I'm going to rebuild my loop and I'm going to mix in some green tubing with my current red tubing so I can get some Christmas look!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ecaftermath*


Nice green! I'm going to rebuild my loop and I'm going to mix in some green tubing with my current red tubing so I can get some Christmas look!










I like that idea


----------



## Bastyn99

I have a question. Is it not possible to take the entire loop out of your case and put it on a table or a makeshift cardboard PC while testing for leaks ? If you're really afraid of breaking something or its your first time etc.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

it would not be possible for me, but for a simple cpu only loop with a single rad you can do that. many people do.

I don't see the point of it though, and I think it is safer to leak test with it all in the position it will be in finally.


----------



## Rognus

I find as long as you do at least a 24 hour leak test with an external power supply, you should be just fine if there are no leaks, if there are you fix the problems dry up the area and do another 24 hour leak test.


----------



## Bastyn99

Well who wants a CPU only loop, pff. Why wouldnt it be possible for you ?

Also 24 hrs leak test is 24 hrs you cant use your PC. Guess there are no "loopholes" when it comes to watercooling ( get it ? )

also another question, is a WC'ed rig easy to move around, say for LAN parties, or would you have to empty the entire system and then refill it after you had moved it ?


----------



## Rognus

I would not be taking a water cooled rig to a lan party, you want light weight for lan parties. A lot of us have very large cases for water cooling and a lot of gear in them, they can get quite heavy.


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rognus*


I would not be taking a water cooled rig to a lan party, you want light weight for lan parties. A lot of us have very large cases for water cooling and a lot of gear in them, they can get quite heavy.


Its not so much the weight im thinking about, its not like im gonna be carrying it in my arms all the way, its more whether its actually possible. Like, does it have to stand upright at all times, or can I lay it down on the side without anything happening, and is it more sensitive to being shaken and stuff, when driving in a car, than an air cooled PC ?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


Well who wants a CPU only loop, pff. Why wouldnt it be possible for you ?

Also 24 hrs leak test is 24 hrs you cant use your PC. Guess there are no "loopholes" when it comes to watercooling ( get it ? )

also another question, is a WC'ed rig easy to move around, say for LAN parties, or would you have to empty the entire system and then refill it after you had moved it ?


CPU only loops are very common and a good idea if you change video cards a lot.

Take a look at my worklog and you will see why it would not be possible, my loop consists of 4 internal radiators, 3 GPU full cover blocks, a Mobo full cover block, a CPU block, a liquid fusion res, a pump, and a fill line. My tubing runs throughout the case, through panels of my case, and the SLI connector I have makes it so the loop must be filled with the block installed on the cards.
also, the mobo block would be near impossible to install on the mobo with tubing already connecting it to other components...

and no, no shortcuts for me with leak testing, I have had to many leaks when installing new gear to be OK with less.

as for lans, I do take classy to lans, but not very often because she is so big and heavy. when I do though, I do not do anything special, no need to drain the loop or anything. (that would be a terrible pain)


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


CPU only loops are very common and a good idea if you change video cards a lot.

Take a look at my worklog and you will see why it would not be possible, my loop consists of *A BILLION THINGS*. My tubing runs throughout the case, through panels of my case, and the SLI connector I have makes it so the loop must be filled with the block installed on the cards.
also, the mobo block would be near impossible to install on the mobo with tubing already connecting it to other components...

and no, no shortcuts for me with leak testing, I have had to many leaks when installing new gear to be OK with less.

as for lans, I do take classy to lans, but not very often because she is so big and heavy. when I do though, I do not do anything special, no need to drain the loop or anything. (that would be a terrible pain)


I see your point








Also yay, there might still be hope for a future WC system for me







!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I would never try to hook up my system outside of the case. Just too complicated. I did run tubing between all the parts on the mobo (cpu, mosfets, nb/sb) before placing it in the case, but that's all. Would be impossible with 5 rads, 2 pumps, and 7 blocks


----------



## Bastyn99

heh yeah, I guess the trouble of installing the loop while everything is hooked up would outweigh the safety of leak testing outside the case







silly me...


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

leak testing is completely safe inside if you jump the psu. you only need power to the pump to leak test, not the computer


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


leak testing is completely safe inside if you jump the psu. you only need power to the pump to leak test, not the computer


That is true... Maybe its just because I dont really know a lot about WC'ing and I make it up in my head to be something dangerous ^^


----------



## motoray

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


*Update 11/20/10: *

CPU Waterblock now with Plexy Top, Mounting-& Logo Plate painted white and a light test:




















thats hot


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


*Update 11/20/10: *

CPU Waterblock now with Plexy Top, Mounting-& Logo Plate painted white and a light test:




















man... i want a full cover for my p55 board.....seems to suck, they kinda skipped evga's 1156 boards


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


That is true... Maybe its just because I dont really know a lot about WC'ing and I make it up in my head to be something dangerous ^^


I've never had a leak in the 5 wc setups i've put together. Just make sure everything is secure when you put it in. I also use compression fittings every time because for some reason they make me feel as tho the seal is more secure.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


I've never had a leak in the 5 wc setups i've put together. Just make sure everything is secure when you put it in. I also use compression fittings every time because for some reason they make me feel as tho the seal is more secure.


lucky fool, I have had leaks in EVERY system I have built...

and I also use compressions.

but never killed anything because I leak tested and allowed everything that got leaked on to dry before turning it on.


----------



## Bastyn99

Damn, I really hope I can scrape together enough money to build a WC rig next year.
Isnt there any way that you could put something around all the fittings that would absorb any leaks, like some paper towels and then just replace them every day or week so that if it did leak, nothing would happen. I dont suppose its like a waterfall when something does leak ?

bah, read the word "leak" so many times I have to use the restroom now...


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


Damn, I really hope I can scrape together enough money to build a WC rig next year.
Isnt there any way that you could put something around all the fittings that would absorb any leaks, like some paper towels and then just replace them every day or week so that if it did leak, nothing would happen. I dont suppose its like a waterfall when something does leak ?

bah, read the word "leak" so many times I have to use the restroom now...


*leaks* can introduce air into your system that would make it less efficient plus *leaks* will eventually *leak* onto your system even if you use something like paper towels or whatever at the *leaks* to stop them from *leak*ing. All it would take would be one *leak* to not get totally absorbed and then you have a *leak* on your precious hardware. So *leaks* are bad *leaks* have to go *leaks* can not be bandaid fixed!

sorry could not help myself


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4*


*leaks* can introduce air into your system that would make it less efficient plus *leaks* will eventually *leak* onto your system even if you use something like paper towels or whatever at the *leaks* to stop them from *leak*ing. All it would take would be one *leak* to not get totally absorbed and then you have a *leak* on your precious hardware. So *leaks* are bad *leaks* have to go *leaks* can not be bandaid fixed!

sorry could not help myself










oh you...

I have the answer, lay down the case on the side opposite of the MB tray, so when its leaks, the drops will fall on the side of the case and it wont hit your components! Genius !


----------



## Striker36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


oh you...

I have the answer, lay down the case on the side opposite of the MB tray, so when its leaks, the drops will fall on the side of the case and it wont hit your components! Genius !


or you could do it right and not have to worry about it....


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Striker36*


or you could do it right and not have to worry about it....










One can never be too careful. Im one of those guys whos afraid something might break if I more than look at it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


One can never be too careful. Im one of those guys whos afraid something might break if I more than look at it










leaks are not hard to fix and once you leak test without leaks you will not have to worry about it anymore.

you don't want any sort of lazy solution, trust me.


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


leaks are not hard to fix and once you leak test without leaks you will not have to worry about it anymore.

you don't want any sort of lazy solution, trust me.


When it comes to tech Im anything but lazy. This is something I have great respect for and are very careful with. I was actually disappointed at how little time it took me to build my current rig and get everything working 100% stable. So I definitely wont try to jump the fence if I ever build a WC rig.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I've honestly never really leak tested. I have good solid clamps on all my tubes and I've always discovered during the filling process if a clamp is too loose. I've also lugged my water-cooled rig all over the place without any issues. I put it behind the passenger seat and have the seat back as far as possible to keep it wedged in there nice and solid.

I guess I've changed systems/loops so often in the last 3 years that water-cooling has become an easy and enjoyable thing for me now. Leaks don't really tend to occur for me anymore (now that I've had the misfortune of being dumb enough to kill a component lol) so it's just pure enjoyment these days


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I've honestly never really leak tested. I have good solid clamps on all my tubes and I've always discovered during the filling process if a clamp is too loose. I've also lugged my water-cooled rig all over the place without any issues. I put it behind the passenger seat and have the seat back as far as possible to keep it wedged in there nice and solid.

I guess I've changed systems/loops so often in the last 3 years that water-cooling has become an easy and enjoyable thing for me now. Leaks don't really tend to occur for me anymore (now that I've had the misfortune of being dumb enough to kill a component lol) so it's just pure enjoyment these days









Good to hear







My buddy puts the seatbelt around his PC and monitor when transporting them ^^ like to kids in the backseat


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastyn99* 
Good to hear







My buddy puts the seatbelt around his PC and monitor when transporting them ^^ like to kids in the backseat

my case doesn't fit in my back seat (or anywhere in the cab for that matter), I have to lay it flat in my trunk to take it anywhere.

I do buckle in my monitors when moving them though, it helps keep them stable a lot.


----------



## Striker36

i actually dragged my scout (unfinished as it may be) about an hour buckeled into the back seat of my car with out any thing to stabilize any thing but the back side panel to keep wires from getting hung up XD


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Kind blows a hole in my plan... I was planning on installing all the pieces then cutting the tubing and routing it all, taking it out of the computer and water testing it for a period. Reinstall with the water in the system and go.

But I guess that's impossible?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat* 
Kind blows a hole in my plan... I was planning on installing all the pieces then cutting the tubing and routing it all, taking it out of the computer and water testing it for a period. Reinstall with the water in the system and go.

But I guess that's impossible?

it is possible if your loop is simple enough.

but loops like mine cannot be done that way.

it is something you must look at on a case to case basis.


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
it is possible if your loop is simple enough.

but loops like mine cannot be done that way.

it is something you must look at on a *case to case* basis.

Pun intended?


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
it is possible if your loop is simple enough.

but loops like mine cannot be done that way.

it is something you must look at on a case to case basis.

I could see with a very complicated loop since that would be a lot of parts to have dragging around.

For me, I just have a GPU block so it should be very simple. But we'll see :/


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat* 
I could see with a very complicated loop since that would be a lot of parts to have dragging around.

For me, I just have a GPU block so it should be very simple. But we'll see :/

GPU full cover blocks can be difficult to install, so it would be easier to do before connecting the tubing, but go for it if you think you can make it work.


----------



## Striker36

the EK blocks for the 470s (the only ones i have experience with) are a royal pita. they have a couple spacers under the block that will be nearly impossible with the card in a system.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
man... i want a full cover for my p55 board.....seems to suck, they kinda skipped evga's 1156 boards

There a couple of dudes that make these sick custom copper/acetal almost universal blocks for mb. They've done a lot of mb models. I forgot the link to them here, anyone have it?


----------



## mav2000

Are you looking for antifec?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mav2000* 
Are you looking for antifec?

Yes, link please







+1

edit: I think their venture is called "AnfiTech" combining their names, I could be wrong though


----------



## mav2000

I could be wrong as well...let me look:

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.ph..._Anfi-tec.html

Whole lot of stuff from them on aquatuning.


----------



## wermad

that's their retailer/outlet. I know they have a dedicated thread here, still looking.

Yes, both were wrong on the name, though I was a bit close









Anfi-Tec


----------



## geniusloci

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I don't see the point of it though, and I think it is safer to leak test with it all in the position it will be in finally.

This. You can always start the pumps only and see if it leaks somewhere. If not - make another check on fittings. In my last loop I overtrusted a Primochill tubing in being tight enough to seal itself on the only 90 degree 1/2 non-compression fitting I have in my case. Lucky me - it literally exploded while I was watching the case two weeks later. Chances were I would not be there, as I have it on remote 10 hours daily, so I consider myself very lucky with this one.

the other case I had leak was my fault - I started to fill the loops and I took a picture w/o realizing the liquid is coming into the second reservoir chamber on the XSPC dual bay, and it was open... Anyway, you only have to clean it, as it doesn't really damage anything, being non-conductive.


----------



## ecaftermath

I'm going to use 2 rosewill fans pushing air on a RX240 and probably will lower the RPM to 1000 with my fan controller.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16835200050

I'm also going to use these fans pulling from the bottom of the TFC 360 radiator. I have San Ace fans that are pushing air in which are undervolted to 1500rpm.

these fans good enough? I already have them lying around.


----------



## geniusloci

Pushing air = no good, especially at low speeds.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *geniusloci* 
Pushing air = no good, especially at low speeds.

why?


----------



## FannBlade

Have to be better than pulling


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


Good to hear







My buddy puts the seatbelt around his PC and monitor when transporting them ^^ like to kids in the backseat


lol i do the same thing, gota seatbelt that crap down!


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


GPU full cover blocks can be difficult to install, so it would be easier to do before connecting the tubing, but go for it if you think you can make it work.


Well I'll give it a try and see if it works. I was planning on taking the card out and having it readily accessible that way but I can see the problems already from thinking more about it.

I'll try and film it and if it works out I'll post it for scrutiny.


----------



## wermad

still no 2nd card due to setback, but loop is complete


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


oh you...

I have the answer, lay down the case on the side opposite of the MB tray, so when its leaks, the drops will fall on the side of the case and it wont hit your components! Genius !


Brilliant!

But... If say a tube falls off the barb, then water will go on your side panel AND on your components.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Few updates ( cable management and some neons )


----------



## geniusloci

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Striker36* 
why?

Due to higher resistance and the connected lower pressure. Pulling is a lot easier on fans, at least those meant to be used like that.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]* 
Few updates ( cable management and some neons )

Looks good CyGnus







Can I get a better pic of the "dual rear external rad" mounting please? I would like to see how you have mounted


----------



## [CyGnus]

Will take pics tomorrow of that but i am using EK holders it is supposed to be 2 holders for one Rad but i am using one for each RAD







I have these 2 here with home made shrouds (see below) they not help much tomorrow i will post the holders in detail ok

And R00st3r i am using 2 of these http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ra...older-120.html in the rear fan to support each rad


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Liighthead

hey thinking about wcing my elite 341.. would a 240 + 120mm rad be enough

for sli 460s and cpu ( c2d atm.. but most likley upgrade to a c2q/x6 before/arfter wcing )

i really gotta stop looking at this thread xD makes me want wcing so much.. so many nice rigs 

EDIT: or a 240 internal + 240 external?


----------



## matchboss

heres my latest


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## [CyGnus]

R00st3r here are the pics of the holders, hope it help's


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundymania* 
Look at cute Aquagirl now













































I know I shouldnt be quoting pictures but I honestly thought she was a card board cut out... She almost does not look 3 dimensional... She doesn't really look like a real person lol, same smile and everything, just slightly different poses. It took me a minute to figure it out.


----------



## Mit Namso

I'm gonna use gravy if I go with a LCS


----------



## bundymania

Haha, look here, sheÂ´s real:

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/...d=216841135649

and Aquagirl 2.0:

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/...d=216841135649


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`* 
I know I shouldnt be quoting pictures but I honestly thought she was a card board cut out... She almost does not look 3 dimensional... She doesn't really look like a real person lol, same smile and everything, just slightly different poses. It took me a minute to figure it out.

lol to me ALMOST looks shopped in


----------



## AdvanSuper

I just finished updating my loop...............


----------



## alancsalt

Raw...., raw...., raw admiration. She's feeling the length no doubt. I can feel a lisp coming on. Thigh.......


----------



## ecaftermath

Well I got some green tubings now.. going for the Christmas theme! haha!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Well I got some green tubings now.. going for the Christmas theme! haha!

Yes!


----------



## Rona

Likely investing in AquaTuning. . .


----------



## oliverw92

Eh, I wouldn't bother investing in AT. Wonder how much aquagirl cost?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Eh, I wouldn't bother investing in AT. Wonder how much aquagirl cost?

$150/hour - Black Friday special


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Figure this might be best place to ask how many use this kit Swiftech H20-220 Apex Ultima XT Liquid Cooling Kit or the Swiftech H20-220 EDGE and how well do they work.


----------



## SwishaMane

No one here is going to recommend a kit. I'll be honest, a kit would be great to learn the jist of W/c'ing if you're freaked out, but I would say just go for the gusto, and get a full custom loop. UNLESS, you're trying to save money, in that case, a good ole H50/70 might do the trick for you.

Ppl have and will say bad things about that kit. Not all ppl have the same experiences, even with kits of the exact same stuff. Someone will say its awesome because they had a good XP, and some will say its garbage. Google a review on the exact model you want and peep it over. Kit might be perfect if you just replace the pump, or the CPU block, w/e is not the best, or performs weak. Hope I helped.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


No one here is going to recommend a kit. I'll be honest, a kit would be great to learn the jist of W/c'ing if you're freaked out, but I would say just go for the gusto, and get a full custom loop. UNLESS, you're trying to save money, in that case, a good ole H50/70 might do the trick for you.

Ppl have and will say bad things about that kit. Not all ppl have the same experiences, even with kits of the exact same stuff. Someone will say its awesome because they had a good XP, and some will say its garbage. Google a review on the exact model you want and peep it over. Kit might be perfect if you just replace the pump, or the CPU block, w/e is not the best, or performs weak. Hope I helped.


I had a h50 lol it sucked worse then my mega i want to keep it under 200 and figure only way would be a kit.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Figure this might be best place to ask how many use this kit Swiftech H20-220 Apex Ultima XT Liquid Cooling Kit or the Swiftech H20-220 EDGE and how well do they work.


The H2O-220 XT is a good kit. Core components are quality, and you'll see a good drop in temps. Might be able to do a bit better piecing a loop together yourself, but if you just want to get a feel for setting up a loop it's a good choice. It's also kinda nice getting everything you need in the box.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I had a h50 lol it sucked worse then my mega i want to keep it under 200 and figure only way would be a kit.


Bal3wolf, what's up meatbag! You can make a pretty basic CPU loop for under $200 easy. Go with a 240mm Rad, just about any block will work, cheap res, and get a decent pump. If the temps are not low enough for you just sell and upgrade the parts you want.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I like the XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360 alot to but drawback theirs no way i could get the rad inside my case it would have to hang off the back.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...tem.html#blank


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I like the XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360 alot to but drawback theirs no way i could get the rad inside my case it would have to hang off the back.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...tem.html#blank


Man, that is a nice kit! I may get that. Can't see anything wrong with it.


----------



## ny_driver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


The H2O-220 XT is a good kit. Core components are quality, and you'll see a good drop in temps. Might be able to do a bit better piecing a loop together yourself, but if you just want to get a feel for setting up a loop it's a good choice. It's also kinda nice getting everything you need in the box.


Yup that's what I bought the Ultima XT kit....still using the block although I have modded it and removed all the restrictions inside it. By design it's a low-flow block but not any more. The pump is very good quality and I still use it and the reservoir for my gpu.

EDIT: the xspc kit is way cheaper, though.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea i like the xspc kits but drawback if i get a 360 rad has to be on the outside of the case or i use a differt case.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


yea i like the xspc kits but drawback if i get a 360 rad has to be on the outside of the case or i use a differt case.


You can just go off similar parts for it and build it yourself. You want me to put a loop together for you?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


You can just go off similar parts for it and build it yourself. You want me to put a loop together for you?


sure see how cheap you can make it and probly a 240 rad to go on the inside.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


sure see how cheap you can make it and probly a 240 rad to go on the inside.


Alright, give me a little while. Do you care where I buy from? I will try and use all one store but some places you can save a lot more at.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


Alright, give me a little while. Do you care where I buy from? I will try and use all one store but some places you can save a lot more at.


ASlong as it supports paypal im fine with them. Does anyone here run a 360 rad on back of the antec 900 ? lOL nope i measured and the rad looks like it would block video card and hit the psu wire. So a 360 is out for inside and outside


----------



## NoGuru

CPU block http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25216

RAD http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25388

Res http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24649
I have this Res, but if you can buy a better one, do it.

Pump http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28303

That's about $220 with out hose, fans and fittings. Of coarse you can change out any part, this would be a high preforming loop for the price. You can see I only went to one store as well, so might be able to find stuff cheaper elsewhere.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


CPU block http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25216

RAD http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25388

Res http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24649
I have this Res, but if you can buy a better one, do it.

Pump http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28303

That's about $220 with out hose, fans and fittings. Of coarse you can change out any part, this would be a high preforming loop for the price. You can see I only went to one store as well, so might be able to find stuff cheaper elsewhere.


How much better would that be then the XSPC Rasa 750 240 ?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11..._Hot_Item.html


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


How much better would that be then the XSPC Rasa 750 240 ?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11..._Hot_Item.html


Honestly not all that much better. The one I built would probably last a lot longer but temps would maybe only a few degress better, and for the price not really worth it.
So I think the kit is a better choice. Plus you can always upgrade the kit later.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Cool im thinking about these parts would have everything i thk i need for under 200 bucks maybe some quick discount fittings but i hear they cost alot.

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit Hot Item! 129.99
Feser - Ultra Pure WaterFeser - Ultra Pure Water ($7.99)
Feser - VS.C Heat CarrierFeser - VS.C Heat Carrier ($18.95)
IandH KillCoils - ($6.99) 
total shipped=184


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Cool im thinking about these parts would have everything i thk i need for under 200 bucks maybe some quick discount fittings but i hear they cost alot.

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit Hot Item! 129.99
Feser - Ultra Pure WaterFeser - Ultra Pure Water ($7.99)
Feser - VS.C Heat CarrierFeser - VS.C Heat Carrier ($18.95)
IandH KillCoils - ($6.99) 
total shipped=184


Seems decent. IDK what the VS.C Heat Carrier is though.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Not sure what all i need lol still learning but its this

Quote:



The Feser VS.CÂ° Heat Carrier Liquid Coolant & Fluid Additive is a ready-to-use anti-corrosion fluid and heat carrier designed for PC liquid cooling solutions. Feser VSC Heat Carrier will work with any PC water cooling system and effectively drops temperatures at the critical heat sources like the CPU, GPU, RAM or Chipsets. The VSC Heat Carrier was designed with overclockers in mind - it is meant for pure performance! The fluid also features anti-corrosion properties to protect your cooling system's metallic components made from Copper, Aluminum, Brass or Nickel.
To achieve the best cooling results use the Feser VSC Heat Carrier pure and undiluted, but it can be mixed with any suitable coolant which is based on ethylene glycol.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/75..._-_500_ml.html


----------



## NoGuru

I use distilled water from the grocery store and a drop of PT Nuke to kill bacteria. Cost is about $7 for both.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoGuru* 
I use distilled water from the grocery store and a drop of PT Nuke to kill bacteria. Cost is about $7 for both.









So that stuff aint needed at all ?


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
So that stuff aint needed at all ?

No not really. If you want color in your loop as well just buy color tube. You can also get clear tube from the Home Depot for about $10 for 10 feet.
PT Nuke is kinda important in my opinion. Also if you get Silver barbs then there is no need for the coil.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I see well im still looking at the stuff im either gonna get a water setup or another 5870 or a new case. Guess if i get a bigger case now i could get a larger water setup later on. But im leaning towards getting the kit i dont really need another video card and if i can make it all fit i can do with my case.


----------



## SwishaMane

XSPC makes some pretty decent w/c parts... I built an entire CPU only loop for my 939 rig, XSPC universal block, XSPC RX240 rad (thick one), and a XSPC pump/res combo. Threw some nice Gentle Typhoon AP-15s on the rad, and some 1/2id tube with comp. fittings, WOW, great loop with great temps, for old 939... If I ran a linpack test, I would get 60-65C, but I dont use my rigs 100% acorss all cores, EVAR, besides benching...


----------



## thx1138

How do you guys with t-lines bleed the bubbles out of your loop? For the past two hours I have been tilting my computer every possible way, pinching the lines, turning off the pump and back on and a combination of all those and I still can't get close to bleeding out all of the bubbles.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
How do you guys with t-lines bleed the bubbles out of your loop? For the past two hours I have been tilting my computer every possible way, pinching the lines, turning off the pump and back on and a combination of all those and I still can't get close to bleeding out all of the bubbles.









It can take a while for all of them to come out. If you tried all the regular methods just give it a few days and they should be gone.


----------



## SwishaMane

T-lines are usually if you are running without a reservoir. I think they are useful for draining and filling tho... I don't run a T-line with either of my current w/c'ed rigs, but I used to, and they are handy...


----------



## Rona

The T is nice for draining, IMO.

As for the Feser additives, yah just use distilled water. I opted to go the silver coil route instead of the PTNuke, though.


----------



## MedRed

Update... New block, new "tubing", new res, added a pump, new pump top, new TMI...


----------



## Rognus

Nice Build MedRed, One of the best builds I have seen in an open air case.


----------



## MedRed

Thanks Rognus!


----------



## LittleDevil

*Some pics of friend's case. I will upload new pics when It will be finished









LD PC-V8



















Regards*


----------



## loop0001

biggest motherboard block in the whole friggin world

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MedRed*


Update... New block, new "tubing", new res, added a pump, new pump top, new TMI...
>snip<


that is absolutely beautiful man. just wow!!


----------



## MedRed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loop0001*


that is absolutely beautiful man. just wow!!


Thanks loop!


----------



## SimpleTech

@MedRed and LittleDevil..

Wow.. just wow. You both owe me a new keyboard because I just drooled all over mine.


----------



## MedRed

lol... Thanks Simpletech!


----------



## MedRed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LittleDevil*


*Some pics of friend's case. I will upload new pics when It will be finished









Regards*


looks very clean


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated and MedRed is our most recent award winner! (awards listed in first post)


----------



## jacobthellamer

Moved things to fit a bigger board - upside-down pump FTW


























I also have two koolance GPU-220's on order -$100nzd for both


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## MedRed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


Updated and MedRed is our most recent award winner! (awards listed in first post)










lol... thanks Kevin!


----------



## whipple16

some really crappy phone pics after install another 120 rad and a ek nickle/acetal block on my 470... full load temps on the 470 went from 90 to 47!!!























































edited so i can have some better pictures...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hehehe, I know I have not posted pics of my own rig with all the new cooling stuff in it yet, but look what I have been doing with it!

GPU @ 729/1458/1188 and CPU @ 4.0 ghz and Nvidia PhysX off:










That is soooo close to 30k, I feel like I need to make it...

any recommendations for improving my score that little bit? I am pretty sure I am at my max OCs, but maybe some OS optimization tricks? (other than turning on PhysX, that is cheating. 







)


----------



## MedRed

Very nice!


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hehehe, I know I have not posted pics of my own rig with all the new cooling stuff in it yet, but look what I have been doing with it!

GPU @ 729/1458/1188 and CPU @ 4.0 ghz and Nvidia PhysX off:










That is soooo close to 30k, I feel like I need to make it...

any recommendations for improving my score that little bit? I am pretty sure I am at my max OCs, but maybe some OS optimization tricks? (other than turning on PhysX, that is cheating.







)

Kill all your startup items, and disable everything you can in bios. That might give you the boost you need.


----------



## wermad

very nice scores. can't wait to see what my scores will be with my new setup and a 3rd fermi


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hehehe, I know I have not posted pics of my own rig with all the new cooling stuff in it yet, but look what I have been doing with it!

GPU @ 729/1458/1188 and CPU @ 4.0 ghz and Nvidia PhysX off:










That is soooo close to 30k, I feel like I need to make it...

any recommendations for improving my score that little bit? I am pretty sure I am at my max OCs, but maybe some OS optimization tricks? (other than turning on PhysX, that is cheating.







)

24k is all your cpu can get? with only 200mhz more on my 860 i score in the mid 26k range with phyx off, im sure a higher cpu oc would give u that extra score to break 30k... even if it requires suiside voltages its just for 1 benchmark and cpu will be ok.


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LittleDevil* 
*Some pics of friend's case.
*
*
*
*
What case is that and how much for one? I love that it has a seperate compartment for the radiators man - what do the side panels look like?

Will it fit 480 rads?*


----------



## LittleDevil

Quote:



Originally Posted by *un-nefer*


What case is that and how much for one? I love that it has a seperate compartment for the radiators man - what do the side panels look like?

Will it fit 480 rads?


*Case was designed to place 3 x 480mm radiators inside.

Thread with alot of pics: http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...ases-pics.html

Sale thread: http://www.overclock.net/cases/86987...c-case-ld.html

Kind Regards*


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LittleDevil*


*Case was designed to place 3 x 480mm radiators inside./B]

*
*
*
*
**
I'll take one mate - it is beautiful









I'll be in contact







*


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *un-nefer*


I'll take one mate - it is beautiful









I'll be in contact










399 Euros. That's $AU547.25 you realise?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LittleDevil*


*Case was designed to place 3 x 480mm radiators inside.

Thread with alot of pics: http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...ases-pics.html

Sale thread: http://www.overclock.net/cases/86987...c-case-ld.html

Kind Regards*


Beautiful case!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


399 Euros. That's $AU547.25 you realise?


Gotta pay to play.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MedRed*


Very nice!












Quote:



Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4*


Kill all your startup items, and disable everything you can in bios. That might give you the boost you need.


yea, I'll try that, thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


very nice scores. can't wait to see what my scores will be with my new setup and a 3rd fermi


















you people and your current gen cards, I was one of you once. 

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


24k is all your cpu can get? with only 200mhz more on my 860 i score in the mid 26k range with phyx off, im sure a higher cpu oc would give u that extra score to break 30k... even if it requires suiside voltages its just for 1 benchmark and cpu will be ok.


I could probably go higher stable enough to get through the bench, but this chip fights with all it has against even 4.0ghz... and I am not a suicide run kinda guy, not enough money to replace anything that gets fried...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Gotta pay to play.


I know all about that...


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MedRed*


Update... New block, new "tubing", new res, added a pump, new pump top, new TMI...


Wow! never have I seen so many failure points in one rig!
Thats a TON of connectors.

Yes its neat and all but all it takes is one oops and your screwed.
I used to have a watercooled Rack also


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lost-boi*


Wow! never have I seen so many failure points in one rig!
Thats a TON of connectors.

Yes its neat and all but all it takes is one oops and your screwed.
I used to have a watercooled Rack also










not screwed just another reason to upgrade


----------



## snelan

CPU: XSPC Rasa
GPU: XSPC Razor 480
Radiator: Black Ice Xtreme II
Pump: Laing D4
Reservoir: DangerDen Dual 3.5 Bay
Tubes: Tygon 1/2"


----------



## Rona

Very simple but I kinda like it. Good job snelan.


----------



## snelan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rona*


Very simple but I kinda like it. Good job snelan.


Thanks, that's what I was going for


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## murdoc1905

My Water Cooled Rig.
































































My Parts
x2 QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff, Female [For ID: 13mm, 1/2"]
x2 QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff Male, Threaded
x1 Liquid Coolant Bottle, High-Performance, 700mL (Fluorescent Blue)
x1 Pump, PMP-450 [13mm, 1/2" ID]
x1 RP-450X2 Dual 5.25" Reservoir for 1-2 PMP-450/S Pumps
x2 Nozzle Pair, Compression [For ID: 13mm (1/2"), OD: 16mm (5/8")]
x1 Radiator, 2x120mm, Copper (High Flow) [no nozzles]
x1 CPU-360 (CPU), Rev1.2 [no nozzles]
x1 Tubing, Black PVC, 1ft/30.5cm [ID: 13mm (1/2"); OD: 16mm (5/8")]
x1 Coolmaster Stock 120mm Fan
x1 Sythe 120mm Fan

(Upgrades to be made)

will be sleeving my wires and my water tubing when my shipment comes in from MDPC

will be upgrading to x2 Delta 250CFM fans as soon as i can find a way to fit them in the case =)

will be using a Lamptron High Wattage 6 Channel Rheobusv in order to tame the beasts of fans.

will be adding a Enzotech 45 Degree Rotary Fitting from the tube coming from the Radiator going into the Res as it is kink'd just enough to annoy me. waiting on shipment.


----------



## SimpleTech

Looking great murdoc1905. And I love your Koolance D5 reservoir!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mastical

Switched to the 800D








Bought a new D5 top so i can move the pump to the lower level.
buying a new reservoir too cuz I cant stand that mcres anymore.
White tubing and compression fittings are next.
I need to redo my cables tomorrow too, looks messy.

Oh yea i got my Rasa to work with an old Enzotech backplate, the AM3 mounting bracket is sooo terrible looking.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *snelan* 
CPU: XSPC Rasa
GPU: XSPC Razor 480
Radiator: Black Ice Xtreme II
Pump: Laing D4
Reservoir: DangerDen Dual 3.5 Bay
Tubes: Tygon 1/2"


















































Nice but i would try to hide some things cause I can see your pump through the window.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lost-boi* 
Wow! never have I seen so many failure points in one rig!
Thats a TON of connectors.

Yes its neat and all but all it takes is one oops and your screwed.
I used to have a watercooled Rack also









It's all pretty sturdy. Once those crystal connectors are pushed in all the way, it's a pita to get them apart. Trust me... I had to do a lot of mixing and matching to get the lengths right. Twice I had leaky fittings, but it turned out those fittings had lost their rubber gaskets. Those were easily fixed. After building this rig, I'm more concerned with fans and cathodes failing than I am with fitting failures.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4* 
not screwed just another reason to upgrade









ain't that the truth... Just need some new Intel processors and ATI cards to come out. lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *murdoc1905* 









agreed, Koolance made a really special looking res/pump-housing. Though, personally, I stay away from dyes and use an led to give the res some color


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
Cool im thinking about these parts would have everything i thk i need for under 200 bucks maybe some quick discount fittings but i hear they cost alot.

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit Hot Item! 129.99
Feser - Ultra Pure WaterFeser - Ultra Pure Water ($7.99)
Feser - VS.C Heat CarrierFeser - VS.C Heat Carrier ($18.95)
IandH KillCoils - ($6.99)
total shipped=184

If you want a kit the XSPC Rasa 750 kit is awesome, got one two days ago and it knocks off 16C Vs a H5O









Great value and superbly build quality parts


----------



## koven

murdoc1905, that koolance res looks awesome, love your loop, very simple and clean


----------



## murdoc1905

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


agreed, Koolance made a really special look res/pump-housing. Though, personally, I stay away from dyes and use an led to give the res some color










I have been looking for some UV led's I believe 3mm but have been unable to find any in stock, have not looked in a week will try today


----------



## t-ramp

I've wrapped up my case mod and loop redo. There are a couple of more images in my log if you're interested.



























Bitspower 3/8" shining silver barbs
Tygon R-3603 3/8" x 1/2" tubing


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*









you people and your current gen cards, I was one of you once. 


Not so current anymore w/ the 5xx series out







. Though got my third one on blackfriday


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Not so current anymore w/ the 5xx series out







. Though got my third one on blackfriday










meh, I consider it current gen still. they are all fermi based.

just like I consider the GTX 280/285 to be same gen, they where just different size manufacture process, still same design.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Us 2XX series guys have to stick together







... I scored a 30k on vantage with my 260's you need to OC yours MOAR.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Us 2XX series guys have to stick together







... I scored a 30k on vantage with my 260's you need to OC yours MOAR.


your CPU is at 4.2, I really feel vantage puts too much weight on the CPU score...


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t-ramp*


I've wrapped up my case mod and loop redo. There are a couple of more images in my log if you're interested.









-snip-

Bitspower 3/8" shining silver barbs
Tygon R-3603 3/8" x 1/2" tubing


How did you remove the sapphire color from the block?
It looks good bare copper.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


your CPU is at 4.2, I really feel vantage puts too much weight on the CPU score...


I'm referring to GPU score not the total vantage score.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I'm referring to GPU score not the total vantage score.


what, my 31,650 isn't high enough for you?


----------



## Oli4v

Allready runnin' strong for a while, but I've transferred my rig to my V2000 that was screaming to be filled.

tough I'm planning to replace the 120.2 and the 120.3 with a new PA120.4 and maybe the PA120.1 with my PA160.1


----------



## JE Nightmare

that's an intense keyboard.


----------



## t-ramp

Regarding my waterblock, there is just a blue-coated plastic piece that is glued to the top of the block. I had to cut it up some in the past to use different fittings, and decided it wasn't even worth gluing it back on. The downfall is that it doesn't fit the bracket correctly this way, but it won't move once it's tightened down good. That and potential discoloring, I guess. It's still got some superglue that I didn't feel like trying to remove, but it's not very visible.

Also, Kevin, I forgot that I've had a name change since my last couple of posts, which were under the name trampton. I'd appreciate it if you would consolidate them. Thanks.


----------



## oliverw92

It looks blue


----------



## bundymania

My little baby radiator


----------



## AdvanSuper

How are these Cathodes?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16800888072


----------



## strezz

Just got myself a new case..nothing spectacular, still doing upgrades.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *strezz*


Just got myself a new case..nothing spectacular, still doing upgrades.


nice. i just got one of those cases for my folding rig. i got much better airflow by taking off the bottom hd rack and putting 2 fans in the front.


----------



## strezz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


nice. i just got one of those cases for my folding rig. i got much better airflow by taking off the bottom hd rack and putting 2 fans in the front.


What size of fans do you have set-up on the front?


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


How are these Cathodes?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16800888072


Well, typical chinese quality....ok for the price


----------



## AdvanSuper

What would you recommended in the same price range and not too terrible on shipping?


----------



## KURTZ

*OBSIDIAN 800D: The Simple Project by KURTZ
*
*Hardware:*

Obsidian 800D
Asus Maximus III Extreme
Intel 875K
GSkill 4GB 2000mhz PI Series
XFX GTX 260 Black Edition
Corsair HX 750W
SSD Crucial C300
HDD Barracuda 500/250GB
*Cooling:*
WB Ybris Black Sun
Radiator HWLabs Black Ice SR-1 360/Nanoxia 2K
Reservoir XSPC
Swiftech MCP6500/EK Top








can i join?


----------



## bundymania

ItÂ´s ok to buy this product - you can search for sharkoon, revoltec or something like this, itÂ´s the same stuff sold under another name. I pers. like ac ryan cathodes, because they have sleeved cables - but without "sound active function". I had such a kit some years ago, at the beginning the flickering light is cool but after a short period, i canÂ´t stand it anymore and used it only as normal cathode without any effect


----------



## AdvanSuper

I'm not buying it for the flickering lights I was just looking for some cheap green lighting. I can't seem to find any of those kits though so far.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Striker36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I'm not buying it for the flickering lights I was just looking for some cheap green lighting. I can't seem to find any of those kits though so far.


why not LEDs? the strips are a little more expensive but they last almost forever and you know what your getting before you get them unlike most cheap cathodes ( ex.reds looking orange/pink)


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Striker36*


why not LEDs? the strips are a little more expensive but they last almost forever and you know what your getting before you get them unlike most cheap cathodes ( ex.reds looking orange/pink)


They actually may be about the same price, I just swapped all my UV cathodes out for one 24LED Uv strip. I had 4 cathodes and now just one strip, plus the cathodes have inverters and generally more mess in the case.

I got mine off of eBay for just under $10 shipped.Like this


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Us 2XX series guys have to stick together







... I scored a 30k on vantage with my 260's you need to OC yours MOAR.

??? how,with my 2 GTX 260's and i7 at 4.6 ghz phsyx on and striped os i managed 27k vantage score, with phsyx off no more then 25k


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls* 
??? how,with my 2 GTX 260's and i7 at 4.6 ghz phsyx on and striped os i managed 27k vantage score, with phsyx off no more then 25k

I have 3 260's and I was referring to GPU score not the vantage score in total. Below is my SS of the run


----------



## GoodInk

I see blue


----------



## Striker36

me too


----------



## mav2000

Wheres the score.....oh damn there it is..lol


----------



## RatDog

There is a score on that screen?


----------



## mav2000

Exactly my point....lol

****...she is hot....


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *strezz*


What size of fans do you have set-up on the front?


the 140 that came in it and a 120 in the bottom front where the hd rack is


----------



## AdvanSuper

^^ I'm right by Wake Forest... Seems like everyone on here is from NC lol.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


^^ I'm right by Wake Forest... Seems like everyone on here is from NC lol.










looks like we're finally going to get below freezing this week, maybe i can finally turn off my ac


----------



## AdvanSuper

My AC has been off for a couple of months now haha. It was 34 just the another night when I was driving around and yesterday it was very humid the weather is all over the place.


----------



## R00ST3R

Just wanted to pop in and show off my latest mod







. I'm totally sporting an OCN applique on my rig for the world to see! (<---pretty cool if you ask me) It's The most "uberest" of mods I've done


















Ok, so it's not really a mod per say, but I had to do something while I await my new reservoir









**Be sure to check the link in my sig for the "I need a new case" contest**


----------



## wermad

kewl, I needs to get moi an stickers from ocn 2s....









2nd gtx470 on water, please excuse the cable management, I will be performing more surgery on my psu this weekend


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
kewl, I needs to get moi an stickers from ocn 2s....









2nd gtx470 on water, please excuse the cable management, I will be performing more surgery on my psu this weekend


















I see you have both cards running again, very noice







. I have an extra applique here if you want it>>send me a PM if you want.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

Hope you didn't update mine


----------



## nascasho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...m/DSCN2099.JPG

All I gotta say is day-um.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Im going to be joining water in a few weeks im ordering a haf-X so i can fit a XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 in it. Do i need anything other then silver coils and distilled water which i have to buy online my krogers and walmart does not carry it at all.


----------



## wermad

hmmm, my local walmart has em, its the one w/ a purple top. any walgreens in your area? they might have some


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Im going to be joining water in a few weeks im ordering a haf-X so i can fit a XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 in it. Do i need anything other then silver coils and distilled water which i have to buy online my krogers and walmart does not carry it at all.


Building a HAF-X myself atm and all I will be using is a silver coil and distilled water. It's all that is needed







.
A garage should carry distilled water.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Building a HAF-X myself atm and all I will be using is a silver coil and distilled water. It's all that is needed







.
A garage should carry distilled water.


Lol not in my town it seems like i checked autozone and advance auto also they dont carry it. How much water do you think you need for a rasa 750 with 360 rad ? can get 1000ml for 9bucks with the rasa kit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


hmmm, my local walmart has em, its the one w/ a purple top. any walgreens in your area? they might have some










Looked it up online in my store says it does not have it i havet went to the store and checked myself. It does look like walgreens has it tho lol only place so far that does here.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Lol not in my town it seems like i checked autozone and advance auto also they dont carry it. How much water do you think you need for a rasa 750 with 360 rad ? can get 1000ml for 9bucks with the rasa kit.


You'll use less than a gallon but since they come in gallon jugs, one should be fine.

I wouldn't pay $9 for that premixed crap.

Did you check it with this link?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


You'll use less than a gallon but since they come in gallon jugs, one should be fine.

I wouldn't pay $9 for that premixed crap.

Did you check it with this link?


Thats exacty what i just found lol so its all the same stuff then and safe if i have a leak.


----------



## dcshoejake

Just got almost all my parts for my 775 revival







everything but the case and the fans


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Thats exacty what i just found lol so its all the same stuff then and safe if i have a leak.


Well once the water touches dust, for example, it will become conductive. Though it will be low enough that it shouldn't cause any major issues.

The best thing to do is check all of your connections before priming the pump and make sure you put plenty of paper towels underneath all of them when you're leak testing. Leaks rarely happen if you're careful but they can occur.


----------



## AdvanSuper

PT Nuke before or after the loop is filled? I've put it in after it's filled previous times. Or what about mid way through filling it?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Well once the water touches dust, for example, it will become conductive. Though it will be low enough that it shouldn't cause any major issues.

The best thing to do is check all of your connections before priming the pump and make sure you put plenty of paper towels underneath all of them when you're leak testing. Leaks rarely happen if you're careful but they can occur.


I see lol this is my first water so i wanna avoid killing my parts lol i wont get the kit for awhile but checking up on everything.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


PT Nuke before or after the loop is filled? I've put it in after it's filled previous times. Or what about mid way through filling it?


Doesn't matter....put it in whenever. I usually put the PT Nuke in after I filled the res up all the way.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


Doesn't matter....put it in whenever. I usually put the PT Nuke in after I filled the res up all the way.


If you buy silver coils you dont need pt nuke right ?


----------



## wermad

yes


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


If you buy silver coils you dont need pt nuke right ?


Yup, that is right. Some people use both but that isn't needed, actually that is overkill.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


If you buy silver coils you dont need pt nuke right ?


Right.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Cool thought so i was reading old threads and they said it was bad for the loop long term to use both so i thought only one was needed and the coils last along time from what iv read.


----------



## crunchie

Coil should last longer than the PC


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Thats good to know lol


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Yup, that is right. Some people use both but that isn't needed, actually that is *overkill*.


This is OCN there is no such thing as overkill!


----------



## reylasj

Here is my rig.
Hardware
ATCS-840 Case
I5-760 @ 4.2
Evga P55 FTW
Corsair XMS3 4Gb
XFX 6850 X-Fire
XFX 850w B.E. Psu
 Cooling 
MCR320
MCR220
MCP355
XSPC Top
Bitspower Res
 Aquacomputer Kryos Delrin


----------



## Morizuno

Wow, that looks amazing! I love how you made a grey interior look so awesome


----------



## loop0001

sweet rig man! love how well the gpu's compliment the look to. well done!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Are you going to be putting the cards under as well? Seems like a lot of rad for just the CPU.


----------



## reylasj

Im thinking about it.
I had the mcr220 rad just laying around so I just figured I'll put it to good use.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## uncholowapo

Is your case... on wheels?!?!? rofl Nice job!


----------



## reylasj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *uncholowapo*


Is your case... on wheels?!?!? rofl Nice job!


Total weight of the case is 55lbs, so yes its on casters.
It also raises the bottom of the case off the floor allowing the rad to breathe better.
Casters is the best mod I have ever done to a case.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I need wheels for my 700D this thing weighs a ton... Reason why I don't feel like doing my loop over right now.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Water cooling would tend to add a lot of weight to a case since you have a lot of dead weight sitting around in there.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *uncholowapo*


Is your case... on wheels?!?!? rofl Nice job!


mine is too!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*


Water cooling would tend to add a lot of weight to a case since you have a lot of dead weight sitting around in there.


it does add weight, but I wouldn't call it dead weight.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Even without the WC it's heavy and such a big case with no handles to lift up. I only have a CPU loop anyway so I wouldn't say much weight is added.


----------



## SimpleTech

As always, I'm adding a new radiator to my collection.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


it does add weight, but I wouldn't call it dead weight. 


Well any water that isn't directing in the blocks is dead weight


----------



## wermad

casters on computer cases aint a joke, its the $h172!









nice collection of aftermarket casters for those digging some "dubs" on their rigs







:

http://www.coolcasters.com/

edit: my corsair is a pig as well


----------



## FannBlade

Sweet I gota get me some wheel!!


----------



## AdvanSuper

I'm getting spinners for my 700D.


----------



## thx1138

Ghetto.............

(the loop is done but I havnt even got to tucking the wires or putting the body panels back on yet...) Besides, temps are amazing I don't care how it looks since my hardware is starting to become outdated anyway.


----------



## wermad

Interim setup until I get gpu block #3


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Lol this is making me want my haf-x and my water kit soon.

Btw i was thinking on how it would hook up when i get it this would get best temps below right ?

Cpu OUT to Rad IN,
Rad OUT to pump/rev IN
Pump/Rev OUT to Cpu IN


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
Lol this is making me want my haf-x and my water kit soon.

Btw i was thinking on how it would hook up when i get it this would get best temps below right ?

Cpu OUT to Rad IN,
Rad OUT to pump/rev IN
Pump/Rev OUT to Cpu IN

thats a really complicated way to describe your loop. just say:

cpu>rad>res>pump>cpu

and yes, thats the way i have my loop


----------



## wermad

order has no effect on temps, just find the best loop that uses the least amount of tube. Only thing to keep in mind is to install the pump after the res and, if possible, install the pump on the lowest possible place to have gravity help the pump, gravity is free btw


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
order has no effect on temps, just find the best loop that uses the least amount of tube. Only thing to keep in mind is to install the pump after the res and, if possible, install the pump on the lowest possible place to have gravity help the pump, gravity is free btw









ummm I'd have to slightly disagree with this above statement because if order made no difference, then it wouldnt matter if you made the cpu the last thing in loop before radiator. Simple science will tell you that the order actually does matter, as you'll get better temps if you put the radiator before the cpu block, so your cpu will be getting the cooler water instead of warmer water, thereby cooling more efficiently. If i'm wrong, please correct me


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
order has no effect on temps, just find the best loop that uses the least amount of tube. Only thing to keep in mind is to install the pump after the res and, if possible, install the pump on the lowest possible place to have gravity help the pump, gravity is free btw









Im getting a rasa kit so the pump will be in the drive bay so not alot of room to move it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
ummm I'd have to slightly disagree with this above statement because if order made no difference, then it wouldnt matter if you made the cpu the last thing in loop before radiator. Simple science will tell you that the order actually does matter, as you'll get better temps if you put the radiator before the cpu block, so your cpu will be getting the cooler water instead of warmer water, thereby cooling more efficiently. If i'm wrong, please correct me

the "order debate" usually revolves around placing the rad before or after the blocks. Yes, you are correct, in terms of block order or sequence, the cpu block should be prioritized as its heat tolerances are not as high as a gpu would be for example. Thanks for reminding me about it









edit: Bal3Wolf seems like he's gonna run a cpu only loop w/ a Rasa kit









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
Im getting a rasa kit so the pump will be in the drive bay so not alot of room to move it.


I have that pump/res running, very nice and got my stuff nice and cool


----------



## eloverton2

the temperature of the water will actually equalize throughout the loop. originally, i thought the same way, and i looked up the thermodynamics and wermad is right. i think its best to put the rad right after the cpu, so the heat can be removed from the loop asap.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
the "order debate" usually revolves around placing the rad before or after the blocks. Yes, you are correct, in terms of block order or sequence, the cpu block should be prioritized as its heat tolerances are not as high as a gpu would be for example. Thanks for reminding me about it









I have that pump/res running, very nice and got my stuff nice and cool









Wouldnt it still be best to go from out on rad to pump/rev then to cpu in seems like you would give a little more time for water to cool more keeping the cpu cooler.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
the temperature of the water will actually equalize throughout the loop. originally, i thought the same way, and i looked up the thermodynamics and wermad is right. i think its best to put the rad right after the cpu, so the heat can be removed from the loop asap.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
Wouldnt it still be best to go from out on rad to pump/rev then to cpu in seems like you would give a little more time for water to cool more keeping the cpu cooler.

the rad can come before or after as eloverton2 said as well. When you decide to throw in a gpu, then order does matter as far as blocks (cpu should be first, then everything else).

Again, set up your loop with the least amount of tube, whether you place the rad before or after the block it won't matter, temps are the same.


----------



## kingofyo1

ok so I partially stand corrected! thanks for the clarification, wermad and eloverton2. I'll be receiving my 360 kit within the next couple of days, so I'll post my pics up as soon as i set it up ^^


----------



## AdvanSuper

Speaking of loop order... This is what I was going to do upon installing my res...










How optimal would this be?

Or should I leave it basically like this the way I have it now (below), but adding a res and the cool water being dumped into it?


----------



## wermad

Rasa kit? RX or RS?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
ok so I partially stand corrected! thanks for the clarification, wermad and eloverton2. I'll be receiving my 360 kit within the next couple of days, so I'll post my pics up as soon as i set it up ^^


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Speaking of loop order... This is what I was going to do upon installing my res...

How optimal would this be?

Or should I leave it basically like this the way I have it now (below), but adding a res and the cool water being dumped into it?

rad order has no impact on temps, if there is its very minute. I've tried both: pump>cpu>rad>res and pump>rad>cpu>res and there was no temp difference









oops, sorry double post


----------



## AdvanSuper

Good to know.


----------



## wermad

btw, no res on "Plan B"?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I guess it would matter more if you used some type water chiller in your loop. Lol i cant sleep so im thinking/looking up random stuff i wonder if you could use somthign like this in a water loop.
http://www.marinedepot.com/CoolWorks...FICHMC-vi.html


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
I guess it would matter more if you used some type water chiller in your loop. Lol i cant sleep so im thinking/looking up random stuff i wonder if you could use somthign like this in a water loop.
http://www.marinedepot.com/CoolWorks...FICHMC-vi.html

id go with the way you have it now, just add the res between the rad and the pump: pump>cpu>rad>res>pump


----------



## wermad

pricey imo, you'd be better off w/ the next step(s) after water: chillers, phase, dice, oil, ln2, etc. (in no particular order







)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
I guess it would matter more if you used some type water chiller in your loop. Lol i cant sleep so im thinking/looking up random stuff i wonder if you could use somthign like this in a water loop.
http://www.marinedepot.com/CoolWorks...FICHMC-vi.html


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Oh yea all outa my budget i was just looking at random stuff lol. I was reading the review on the Hailea HC-500A water chiller 47c at 5ghz on a i7 lol insane with the gpus at 30c lol.

Quote:

Just because we can, we also tried running the HC-500A at its lowest temperature setting, 4Â°C, to see if this would make any difference. Unfortunately, although this dropped the CPU temperature to a chilly 28Â°C, we were unable to break the 5GHz barrier without Prime95 crashing. Even so, this shows that the HC-500A still had a lot of untapped cooling potential, even with a heavily overclocked 6-core CPU and dual-GPU graphics card.


----------



## wermad

Here's something random, making ice cream in three minutes using ln2 (the pink food mixer matches quite well w/ the strawberry ice cream they produced







). Didn't know it could have been done this way











http://www.highlowfooddrink.com/2010...ice-cream.html


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Haha insane.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Here's something random, making ice cream in three minutes using ln2 (the pink food mixer matches quite well w/ the strawberry ice cream they produced







). Didn't know it could have been done this way











http://www.highlowfooddrink.com/2010...ice-cream.html

I lol'd.. nice cooking achievement. you gain a level! your cooking is now at level 2


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Lol has anyone noticed you cant find much info on the http://www.xspc.biz/products.php website on their kits.


----------



## wermad

their site is pretty decent, not as fancy as EK's but still good non-the-less. 99 everyone


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
their site is pretty decent, not as fancy as EK's but still good non-the-less. 99 everyone

Lol other then the kits they list are kinda out dated no rx240 rx360 or rs360s even listed.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
Lol other then the kits they list are kinda out dated no rx240 rx360 or rs360s even listed.

heh I find it kinda funny, they update the news on their site, but not the products? weeeeirrrd... oh well, nite nite peeps, catch yall tomorrow!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Speaking of loop order... This is what I was going to do upon installing my res...

[URL=http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/1839/loopou.jpg%5Bimg]http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/1839/loopou.jpg[img[/URL]]

How optimal would this be?

[B]Or should I leave it basically like this the way I have it now (below), but adding a res and the cool water being dumped into it?[/B]

[img][URL=http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/2656/loop2.jpg%5Bimg]http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/2656/loop2.jpg[img[/URL]]
[/TD]
[/TR][/TABLE]

Quote:
[TABLE][TR][TD]
Originally Posted by [B]wermad[/B] [URL=showthread.php?s=7cbacc57dd35bcffd2623e1b5502316d&p=11517428#post11517428][IMG alt="View Post"]http://static.overclock.net//img/forum/go_quote.gif[/URL]
btw, no res on "Plan B"?

There is


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
I guess it would matter more if you used some type water chiller in your loop. Lol i cant sleep so i'm thinking/looking up random stuff i wonder if you could use something like this in a water loop.
http://www.marinedepot.com/CoolWorks...FICHMC-vi.html

Probably not big enough. If you are interested in the water chiller instead of rad option, check out:

Bit-Tech Hailea HC-500A Water Chiller PC Cooling Review

Xtremesystems - Hailea HC-500 or HC-1000 Any Good For Water Chilling?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
rad order has no impact on temps, if there is its very minute. I've tried both: pump>cpu>rad>res and pump>rad>cpu>res and there was no temp difference










My loop order is this : res > temp sensor > pump > 240 rad > 280 rad > temp sensor > cpu block > nb block > res

Idling with 23 C ambient both temp sensors are at 25.3 C. After 2 hours of Prime95 small FFT's temp after blocks is 29.6 C and temp after rads is 29.1 C. So there seems to be a little difference but nothing that would have any real world significance.


----------



## Aleckazee

Hi guys, new to this thread. I haven't built my wc system yet but I'm panning it out and just had a few questions, hope u don't mind me asking. So far I'm thinking of getting a AMD Phenom II 3.4GHz Quad Core CPU, ATI 5870 GPU, Asus M4A88T (probably change it to a crosshair). I have all the other parts planned out like RAM, case etc as well. And I want to overclock it all








So anyway, can I have ID 10mm (3/8") tubing splitting to two ID 06mm (1/4") tubing (1 going to my CPU and the other to the GPU) then reconnecting, cooling the motherbord NB then going to the radiator and finally res? Should I get bigger tubing or something? and can a 7L/Min pump do the job?


----------



## eloverton2

i'd spend the $20 bucks and get a 1055x6 or $25 more for the new 970x4 (if you want a BE) i just got a 970 and its a much better overclocker than my 965.

you generally want to avoid splitting a loop because its difficult to get both branches of the split to flow at the same speed. instead, you'd want to run all the items in sequence like
res>pump>cpu>mobo>gpu>rad (or run two separate loops one for the cpu/mobo and gpu *which would require another pump and res)

as to the tubing, there is debate, 1/2" would have more water volume thus more cooling ability, the smaller diameter of 1/4" increases the flow rate through the tubes (if you look through this thread most people go with the higher diameter) also, you're going to need a lot of rad to cool cpu/gpu/mobo all at once and all oc'd.


----------



## Projectil3

May I be added to the members list please?

Swiftech Res/Pump/Tubing/Rad
Zalman CPU Block

Cooling the 1055T.










I also have 8x Yate Loon silent 120MM fans on the way, bought 'em for $4 from NCIX. Stoked!

Oh yeah, first time putting a loop together.


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
as to the tubing, there is debate, 1/2" would have more water volume thus more cooling ability, the smaller diameter of 1/4" increases the flow rate through the tubes (if you look through this thread most people go with the higher diameter) also, you're going to need a lot of rad to cool cpu/gpu/mobo all at once and all oc'd.

Thanks for that. So I guess I won't split then. I was going to get a 2 120mm fan rad on top of my Xigmatek UTGard Tower Case and another 1 120mm fan rad on the bottom of the case. Not sure tho, might change it all completely


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.


----------



## Jelah

My EK-SUPREME Hf Acetal finally got shipped today







Will have it monday, and maybe a little update for the club, almost finished with upgrades







Got a Razer DA 3500, a Steelseries 6G v2, some new quiet 2000RPM Coolermaster red LED fans for my rad, and a EAH5870, just waiting on the block due to backorder! I'm excited to finally have my loop, and most of my rig where i want it!!!


----------



## thrasherht

Just got my Rasa RS360 kit. Don't have my new case yet so all i have is a cardboard box.



























Still got a few bubbles to work out.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ericfx1984

HTPC, aka 'The Nest'


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

Figures... I just finish all the tubing and I'm about to fill my loop and it turns out someone threw out my funnel.

Ffffffffffffffff


----------



## wermad

get one of these, I prefer this over the funnel


----------



## GoodInk

New GPU, RX120, new tubing, and LED's


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

off topic:

I got my lip pierced!









although my dad is kinda pissed about it, anyone have a pic of a healed lip peircing without the ring in it I can show him so he sees it isn't a big deal? or even one that has healed closed?


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

off topic:

I got my lip pierced!









although my dad is kinda pissed about it, anyone have a pic of a healed lip peircing without the ring in it I can show him so he sees it isn't a big deal? or even one that has healed closed?

uh i have mine done havent worn it in a very long time but here it is.
it is noticeable, i think


----------



## kingofyo1

here's my new loop: just finished it a couple hours ago, xspc rasa 750 360 kit backmounted with UV Green tubing


----------



## AdvanSuper

I have a green LED for the res, but it's a 3 PIN fan header/HD LED type of plug on it and don't know what to use to get power to it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M1nUrThr3t* 
uh i have mine done havent worn it in a very long time but here it is.
it is noticeable, i think

how long had you had it before you stopped wearing it and how long had it been out for in that pic?

thanks


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
updated

how long had you had it before you stopped wearing it and how long had it been out for in that pic?

thanks

I actually didnt wear it for a year but since that pic(taken Last night) its been about 4 months. It stays like that. Even when i didnt wear it for a year it looked like that.

Also, fyi most peoples piercings close when they leave em out. All mine stayed open after being left out for a year. So your body may be different than mine, but i imagine you would still see some type of a dimple there.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M1nUrThr3t* 
I actually didnt wear it for a year but since that pic(taken Last night) its been about 4 months. It stays like that. Even when i didnt wear it for a year it looked like that.

Also, fyi most peoples piercings close when they leave em out. All mine stayed open after being left out for a year. So your body may be different than mine, but i imagine you would still see some type of a dimple there.

yea, I know there will always be something, and I am sure no one who meets you for the first time would see that and think anything of it.

thanks for sharing


----------



## kingofyo1

if you have it in for a while, there WILL be scars left over. I still have my labret scar, and a slight hole in my tonge as well as pinprick holes in my ears from when I gauged to 00 about 3 years ago


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
if you have it in for a while, there WILL be scars left over. I still have my labret scar, and a slight hole in my tonge as well as pinprick holes in my ears from when I gauged to 00 about 3 years ago

did the labret actually close up? mind posting a pic?


----------



## masonkian

thought i would add mine

what do you think ?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Some older pics from me...


----------



## DigitrevX

Sorry about the quality! It was taken with my iphone. My canon is at home and I'm outa town this weekend..

Same loop, new mobo, cpu, ram, HD.

Edit: Sorry I got ahead of my self, components are:
Black ice GT stealth 120mm x2
DD D5 pump 1/2 ID
1/2 ID Tygon 2075 Ultra tubing
D-Teck v2 cpu WB
XSOC Passive res iodized black (discontinued)
Fluid xp ultra blue
Sunon 120x38mm 180cfm fan x2


----------



## kevingreenbmx

added. ;-)


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
yea, I know there will always be something, and I am sure no one who meets you for the first time would see that and think anything of it.

thanks for sharing

Yeah most people will not notice atleast not for a while.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
did the labret actually close up? mind posting a pic?

the labret did close up, but there's always a scar of some sort. i dont feel like shaving just for a pic







maybe next time i get ready for work on monday i'll take a pic and show yeh


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I have a green LED for the res, but it's a 3 PIN fan header/HD LED type of plug on it and don't know what to use to get power to it.

Any ideas?


----------



## kingofyo1

they make connectors that turn your 3pin into molex. I'd grab one or two of those from the local comp shop if i were you. they should only charge a buck or two for em. works for me! i couldnt find a fan header on my mobo that would work for my spot cool,so i just did that. works like a charm now!


----------



## Striker36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


added. ;-)


mind = blown.

thats supposed to say Updated?


----------



## Aleckazee

So will a 360 rad be enough to cool my CPU, GPU and MB (NB)? 
AMD Phenom II 3.4GHz Quad Core
ATI 6870


----------



## jclark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aleckazee* 
So will a 360 rad be enough to cool my CPU, GPU and MB (NB)?
AMD Phenom II 3.4GHz Quad Core
ATI 6870

Depends on the rad and fans.
An RX360 with GT's would handle it without a problem.


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jclark* 
Depends on the rad and fans.
An RX360 with GT's would handle it without a problem.

What about this one? http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=585

And these fans pushing 68CFM?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=13916


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
they make connectors that turn your 3pin into molex. I'd grab one or two of those from the local comp shop if i were you. they should only charge a buck or two for em. works for me! i couldnt find a fan header on my mobo that would work for my spot cool,so i just did that. works like a charm now!

I have fan header available, but it won't power on through them guess I'll take a ride to compusa.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Striker36*


mind = blown.

thats supposed to say Updated?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*












Yo kev how do recommend i flush an Extremely Dirty rad?
Im talking about EXTREMELY Dirty








So dirty that it indeed stopped my pump


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Yo kev how do recommend i flush an Extremely Dirty rad?
Im talking about EXTREMELY Dirty








So dirty that it indeed stopped my pump










wow... if it is that bad you clean it by getting a new one...

will water not flow through it at all?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
wow... if it is that bad you clean it by getting a new one...

will water not flow through it at all?

It flows its just that everytime i Flush it a Ton of Flakes come out :/


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
It flows its just that everytime i Flush it a Ton of Flakes come out :/

fill it half way with vinegar, plug the holes with your thumbs and shake the hell out of it. then rinse it out and repeat until nothing else comes out.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
It flows its just that everytime i Flush it a Ton of Flakes come out :/

were you using tap water or something? vinegar like kevingreenbmx suggested should work, but if its as bad as you said, you may need to buy some of this alkaline radiator cleaner.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
were you using tap water or something? vinegar like kevingreenbmx suggested should work, but if its as bad as you said, you may need to buy some of this alkaline radiator cleaner.

Nah i was Using Distilled with Silver,
But the thing is i have two rads one that i use and one that i don't use yet.
Im using a Thermochill PA120.3 the old version that i got from Someone on here,
I flushed it a couple times when i got it but i didn't give it too much thought...

After a while i noticed Stains in my Res and thus i come to find out i have the Dirtiest Rad on the Eastern Seaboard...

Im flushing it right now with just hot boiling tap water, but im headed to the store to get some 3 gallons of Distilled and such.

PS. the other rad is a 480 Feser, that i have yet to Flush or use but its brand new so i don't know yet


----------



## ecaftermath

Should I change my MCP655 pump for a MCP335 pump? I have an EK X-top for the D5. It's huge. I want to put my pump right behind my bay res..

What's the different between these 2 that makes the 30$ difference?

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=835

and

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=778

If I do change, I will definitely get a top..


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Should I change my MCP655 pump for a MCP335 pump? I have an EK X-top for the D5. It's huge. I want to put my pump right behind my bay res..

What's the different between these 2 that makes the 30$ difference?

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=835

and

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=778

If I do change, I will definitely get a top..

since you already have a 655, if you want to put your pump in your bay, i suggest an xspc bay res pump top. i'm really happy with mine.


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
since you already have a 655, if you want to put your pump in your bay, i suggest an xspc bay res pump top. i'm really happy with mine.

well not really right behind. just right below it in that area right behind the fan controller i guess. I like the EK spin reservoir so I'm going to keep that.

Since i'm going to be putting a 240 rad on the bottom of the case, I need to put the pump else where =)


----------



## Jelah

I changed my block today, think i must have split some water at some point, and didn't notice, powered it up a few times to get all the air out, then... my board died







reached in and felt some moisture on the board so I'm positive that's what i killed, 2nd board I've killed in the last 30 days







Oh well, I wanted a Rampage III anyway


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
I changed my block today, think i must have split some water at some point, and didn't notice, powered it up a few times to get all the air out, then... my board died







reached in and felt some moisture on the board so I'm positive that's what i killed, 2nd board I've killed in the last 30 days







Oh well, I wanted a Rampage III anyway









sucks









go for the Extreme









edit: Im having woes with my new fermi too (no water btw







), and newegg is out-of-stock, so I might get a refund, I wants another card


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Should I change my MCP655 pump for a MCP335 pump? I have an EK X-top for the D5. It's huge. I want to put my pump right behind my bay res..

What's the different between these 2 that makes the 30$ difference?

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=835

and

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=778

If I do change, I will definitely get a top..

well, the main difference is head pressure. If you're wanting to run cpu block, gpu block (or two) plus the mobo blocks and NB blocks etc, you'll want to grab the Laing High Pressure DDC. its got a lot more head pressure than that 655 you have. The 655 flows more, but at a lower head pressure, thereby its not going to cool the more restrictive loops such as the one i just mentioned


----------



## KURTZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
since you already have a 655, if you want to put your pump in your bay, i suggest an xspc bay res pump top. i'm really happy with mine.

i own the single bay ... really a superb reservoir ...


----------



## bundymania




----------



## R00ST3R

^Man I gotta get me one of those security rabbits^








________________________________________________

Been a good day today! Received my replacement reservoir in the mail this morning, and signed up for classes towards getting a Network Security Manager certification.

Hopefully I will be able to post some pics here in a few hours







.


----------



## wermad

if you get a f & m, you'll have a squad team of bunnies in a few weeks, ultimate security


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Here she is updated. Still waiting on a 400mm helix res (what the acrylic bracket is for on the rad) that frozenQ says will be shipped out friday. It should complete the look imo.



camera had trouble focusing due to the acrylic. failure of being photography noob on my part


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
Here she is updated. Still waiting on a 400mm helix res (what the acrylic bracket is for on the rad) that frozenQ says will be shipped out friday. It should complete the look imo.
camera had trouble focusing due to the acrylic. failure of being photography noob on my part

Dang that looks really good.

Also could you stop folding for couple days you're really shoving me hard on the folding stats.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FannBlade* 
Dang that looks really good.

Also could you stop folding for couple days you're really shoving me hard on the folding stats.

Thanks man! and NEVER!!!! I must hit 1million pts! then i'm gonna slow down a little, downclock my 480s to save some $ and not have to deal with so many lock ups when I'm trying to multitask. As long as I'm getting 30k ppd I'm happy.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

Woke my pc up from sleep noticed it was running choppy as hell so I decided to reboot then it wasn't posting amd I realized my pump wasn't running. Everything was running fine when I put it to sleep. All the power connections are the same, but the pump won't turn on.

Tried a different connection and the pump still won't go on.


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

dead?


----------



## AdvanSuper

I don't know how it died. I've only had it for 3-4 months. I don't even have an air cooler or anything to use my PC. This sucks. Plugged it into the fan header on the mobo too but I think that's to just monitor pump speed? I don't even want to drain the loop to replace the pump.


----------



## AdvanSuper

It struggles to spin up when I first turn it on. I can feel it when I place my hand on it at startup.


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

try direct power to it and see how that goes for you.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I could have apparently over tightened it when I took it apart to inspect it when I redid my loop.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I could have apparently over tightened it when I took it apart to inspect it when I redid my loop.

over tightened what?


----------



## AdvanSuper

The pump top to the pump. I did a quick google and that's a possible reason why it could have failed.


----------



## AdvanSuper

What would be the best way to drain the loop? Unscrew the pump completely or pull off the tubing? I had a drain port before, but now I don't lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I would pull the tubing off the top of your pump first, then off the outlet of the pump and raise on up to the top of the system and blow into it to get all the water out.

although, pro tip: if you just are replacing the pump, you can plug the tubes and not drain the rest out and simply replace the pump. that way it is WAY quicker to bleed the loop after you get the new pump in.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Well I figured if I unscrewed it and place the pump top over a bucket so things wouldn't get that messy. I also only have one plug so I can't cap off both tubes unless I go to the hardware store and dig something out.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Well I figured if I unscrewed it and place the pump top over a bucket so things wouldn't get that messy. I also only have one plug so I can't cap off both tubes unless I go to the hardware store and dig something out.

only need one, plug on and bend the other up so it is the highest part of the loop, you have the tubing there to do it.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I'll give it a shot... What should I do with the pump afterwards? I wouldn't even know what to look for that could be wrong with it.

What pump should I get after this now? Might just get one overnighted....


----------



## AdvanSuper

I can get a 655 for $84 shipped 2nd day. Thoughts? Is that too much pump?

Or the speed controlled one for $93.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

test the pump with spare tubing and a bucket disconnected from your loop.

try taking it apart and looking for anything obvious, clean the impeller, put it back together and try again.


----------



## fshizl

i drained my loop last night to switch out my 5970 for a gtx 465... lol

i just emptied it out from the reservoir...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
i drained my loop last night to switch out my 5970 for a gtx 465... lol

i just emptied it out from the reservoir...

I wish I could do that... the way I have my tubing routed though and the fact that I have a fill line make it so I cannot move the res enough to pour out of it.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I wish I could do that... the way I have my tubing routed though and the fact that I have a fill line make it so I cannot move the res enough to pour out of it.

lol mine is as easy as removing the res from the clips and tilting it downwards into a bowl, after its cleared I disconnect the lines from the res... I blow into the the tubing to goes to the pump and poit the tubing coming out of my video card towards the bowl...

flushes the system in like 5 minutes.









im running the feser quad for the processor only... LOL


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

you could always fill with a squirt bottle that has a long hose on the end and just stick that in the top of the res. I usually just suck some water out then disconnect a line from the res and empty the loop.

As soon as I get my 400mm helix res in the mail I'll be running a dual res setup. one will feed into the other to make for easy filling. New res will obviously be for looks more than anything. Even if it hurts flow just a little it doesn't matter.


----------



## AdvanSuper

And what about the other pump option? I don't want to be down for that long lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

if it doesn't work just get a replacement for what you have...


----------



## xToaDx

I might as well join..










It's an RX360 with Enermax Magmas, HeatKiller LT, D5 with Bitspower top and mod kit, IandH StealthRes, Bitspower matte black compression fittings (7/16''x5/8'') and Feser black tubing.

Running distilled water with kill coil.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ecaftermath

I'm adding a 240 at the bottom of the case. Which way should I mount the the fans? Intake from the inside or from the outside (bottom)?

The current 360 on top is getting air from the top. The front and the side panel fan is intake and the back fan is exhaust.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I drained the loop and the pump looks absolutely fine... Can anyone link me the how to run the power supply with the pin trick?


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

paper clip the green and black i believe its 20 and 23.

reference here
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-...upply-psu.html


----------



## alancsalt

connect the green wire to any black wire with a paper clip or piece of wire (in your big Mobo power plug)

Ninja'd


----------



## eloverton2

i always do green and the black directly adjacent to it


----------



## alancsalt

Any black works. All earths.


----------



## wermad




----------



## AdvanSuper

Thanks... It spun up and started working... I don't understand why it stopped to begin with.


----------



## wermad

make sure the paper clip inserts into the pins, the pins on the 24 connector are females so a medium size paper clip will insert into the pins to make best contact


----------



## koven

anyone have pics of white 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barb??

im digging through this thread but cant find any

having a tough time deciding if i should splurge on compressions or just keep my barbs


----------



## AdvanSuper

The pump is flakey... I have to tap it for it to fully spin up... Don't know if I can trust it...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
anyone have pics of white 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barb??

im digging through this thread but cant find any

having a tough time deciding if i should splurge on compressions or just keep my barbs


just soften up the tube w/ some heat (hair dryer or heat-gun though easy w/ the gun







) or boiling water, this makes for a super tight fit that might not need clamps or ties on the barbs. compression are more for bling/looks, if you are going all out, then go w/ the compression fittings


----------



## AdvanSuper

Should I buy a replacement and see if this one can be sent in for an RMA or anything?


----------



## xToaDx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


anyone have pics of white 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barb??

im digging through this thread but cant find any

having a tough time deciding if i should splurge on compressions or just keep my barbs


I just microwave a small glass of water and just dip the end into the water for like 10 seconds.

I've only ever had to do this with the stock barbs on the D4/D5 pumps, though. I've never had any problem sliding 7/16'' ID tubing over 1/2'' DD fat boys or 1/2'' Swiftech fittings.


----------



## ScurK

If it's flakey now, it'll be dead soon. Don't waste time trying to convince yourself that it'll be okay - get another pump asap!


----------



## alancsalt

com = common = earth

(I must be bored.)

Don't trust it.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
com = common = earth

(I must be bored.)

Don't trust it.

comma comma comma comma comma chameleon?


----------



## wermad

tierra = earth (in espaÃ±ol







) => ground

Im bored too (waiting for newegg cs about my faulty fermi







)


----------



## AdvanSuper

Wasn't trying to convince myself it was safe I just wanted to know so I can order one right now lol.


----------



## eloverton2

hey wermad, do you have the tri sli, cpu, and mobo all on one 360 rad? what kind of temps are you getting?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


hey wermad, do you have the tri sli, cpu, and mobo all on one 360 rad? what kind of temps are you getting?


atm cpu>mb>gtx470>gtx470 still pending a 3rd water block which was a good move as my new MSI fermi was a dud, I ordered another Zotac to complete the trio.

Anyways, temps:
cpu idle 36c-40c and load (IBT) 58-63c oc to 4.2
mb : 30-40c (idle and load)
gpu#1: idle 32c load 45c
gpu#2: idle 35c load 48c (this was fixed through rma)
both gpu are oc to 800 or 850 core.

I suspect maybe about +2-3c when I add the 3rd gpu block in a few weeks.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


atm cpu>mb>gtx470>gtx470 still pending a 3rd water block which was a good move as my new MSI fermi was a dud, I ordered another Zotac to complete the trio.

Anyways, temps:
cpu idle 36c-40c and load (IBT) 58-63c oc to 4.2
mb : 30-40c (idle and load)
gpu#1: idle 32c load 45c
gpu#2: idle 35c load 48c (this was fixed through rma)
both gpu are oc to 800 or 850 core.

I suspect maybe about +2-3c when I add the 3rd gpu block in a few weeks.


wow thats impressive, nice build! i was under the impression that a cpu, gpu, and mobo was at the edge of a 360's load range, but you definitely challenged that supposition. that is a good rad tho. thanks for the info.


----------



## LittleDevil

*Some more.


































*


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LittleDevil*


*Some more.









http://i.imgur.com/Fqm0n.jpg
http://images.plurk.com/3218847_3ed5...8593e895b4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4rQ4P.jpg*


Please tell me that thing folds







([email protected])


----------



## Willanhanyard

@LittleDevil

One thing, you need 4-way and gpu water blocks, then you can call it fast







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


wow thats impressive, nice build! i was under the impression that a cpu, gpu, and mobo was at the edge of a 360's load range, but you definitely challenged that supposition. that is a good rad tho. thanks for the info.


After learning a lot about water and roaming the wc threads, I've learned quite a bit, Im coming off three RS360s cooling my old build, really overkill tbh. I decided on this build based on what I deemed doable with good results,though I didn't expect great results







.

LittleDevil, you and your rig pr0n teases


----------



## jclark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willanhanyard*


@LittleDevil

One thing, you need 4-way and gpu water blocks, then you can call it fast







.


If he follows the same logic of the pictures he posted so far the next picture should have 4-way SLI


----------



## AdvanSuper

Ordered a new pump hopefully it's here by Friday in case this one dies on me over the weekend.

Is there some sort of warranty with swiftech?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Is there some sort of warranty with swiftech?


I think it depends on the pump. But 24 months from date of purchase seems to be what most of them come with.

Also if you take the pump apart, it voids the warranty.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
I think it depends on the pump. But 24 months from date of purchase seems to be what most of them come with.

Also if you take the pump apart, it voids the warranty.









So adding a pump top voids it? Since that's basically taking it apart...


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
So adding a pump top voids it? Since that's basically taking it apart...

No it does not void the warranty...

all you do is remove a large nut that holds the pump in place to the the top (655 here/ 355 is with actual screws)
And then replace it with a new pump top.

There is no humanly possible way for anybody to tell you had a pump unless you tell them.


----------



## gobbo353

Your Order :

1 x XSPC RX360 Radiator $129.00

1 x EK-Supreme HF - Full
Nickel $109.00

1 x EK-DDC X-RES 100
Acetal $80.75

1 x Swiftech MCP355 12V
Pump $109.00

2 x Tygon 3400 Tubing 3/8
ID - Black $14.50

What am I missing guys..? What could be improved? -

Looking at high end water cooling to cool an I7 960 the Ud7 and 5970 down track.. System will hopefully be a 24/7 @4.5 OC at least..

Was going to go with GTX360 Rad and am still undecided.. probably prefer quieter system so for now perhaps. Currently utilising H50 P/P which is ok but yeah custom is logical progression. Will probalby add second 360 down the track tbh also while i'm at it..

Anyway is this reasonable Aus price for parts or what...?

Looking at some quick feedback as i'm going to take the plunge today or tomorrow at latests..

Anyway any and all thoughts welcome.. P.S. ANtec 1200 case so probably modding drive bays .. Otherwise would love the 800D


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gobbo353* 
Your Order :

1 x XSPC RX360 Radiator $129.00

1 x EK-Supreme HF - Full
Nickel $109.00
You don't need nickel, Get the gold from PPCs, or get the regular ones
1 x EK-DDC X-RES 100
Acetal $80.75
Get a better Res, that is too small and its waaayyy overpriced.

1 x Swiftech MCP355 12V
Pump $109.00

2 x Tygon 3400 Tubing 3/8
ID - Black $14.50

What am I missing guys..? What could be improved? -
YOur missing fittings and a rad unless you got one already








Looking at high end water cooling to cool an I7 960 the Ud7 and 5970 down track.. System will hopefully be a 24/7 @4.5 OC at least..

Was going to go with GTX360 Rad and am still undecided.. probably prefer quieter system so for now perhaps. Currently utilising H50 P/P which is ok but yeah custom is logical progression. Will probalby add second 360 down the track tbh also while i'm at it..

Anyway is this reasonable Aus price for parts or what...?

Looking at some quick feedback as i'm going to take the plunge today or tomorrow at latests..

Anyway any and all thoughts welcome.. P.S. ANtec 1200 case so probably modding drive bays .. Otherwise would love the 800D

Check the red


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
No it does not void the warranty...

all you do is remove a large nut that holds the pump in place to the the top (655 here/ 355 is with actual screws)
And then replace it with a new pump top.

There is no humanly possible way for anybody to tell you had a pump unless you tell them.

As per the warranty page... Mentions nothing about taking it apart so I can probably send it in for repair.

Quote:

WARRANTY: This product is guaranteed for a period of 24 months from date of purchase for defects in material, and workmanship.
Guarantee consists of replacing defective parts with new or reconditioned parts. Guarantee is considered void in case of improper use
(*)(**)(***), handling or negligence on the part of user. Original invoice showing date and place of purchase is required for exercise of the
warranty. (*) WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RUN THIS PUMP DRY. THIS WILL CAUSE IMMEDIATE AND PERMANENT DAMAGE TO THE PUMP. (**)
EXCESSIVE WEAR DUE TO INNAPROPRIATE FLUIDS. (***) EXCESSIVE RESTRICTION TO THE PUMPâ€™S INLET


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
As per the warranty page... Mentions nothing about taking it apart so I can probably send it in for repair.

You'll be fine trust me its not a big deal when you install a pump top.
There are no seals or sticker that warn of Void, so you'll be ok like everyone else.

Infact think of it this way,
Your putting a hat on head...then you take it off.
Who is gonna know you had a hat on?


----------



## soulster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gobbo353* 
Your Order :

1 x XSPC RX360 Radiator $129.00

1 x EK-Supreme HF - Full
Nickel $109.00

1 x EK-DDC X-RES 100
Acetal $80.75

1 x Swiftech MCP355 12V
Pump $109.00

2 x Tygon 3400 Tubing 3/8
ID - Black $14.50

What am I missing guys..? What could be improved? -

Looking at high end water cooling to cool an I7 960 the Ud7 and 5970 down track.. System will hopefully be a 24/7 @4.5 OC at least..

Was going to go with GTX360 Rad and am still undecided.. probably prefer quieter system so for now perhaps. Currently utilising H50 P/P which is ok but yeah custom is logical progression. Will probalby add second 360 down the track tbh also while i'm at it..

Anyway is this reasonable Aus price for parts or what...?

Looking at some quick feedback as i'm going to take the plunge today or tomorrow at latests..

Anyway any and all thoughts welcome.. P.S. ANtec 1200 case so probably modding drive bays .. Otherwise would love the 800D

try Sidewinder computers, thats where I got my water cooling stuff. Cheaper than PCCG or anything else in Aus. . .


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
No it does not void the warranty...

Actually it does but there is pretty much no way Swiftech will ever know.

*Edit*

Hmm.. maybe it's only for the MCP35X. Cant find anything on their other pumps.

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp35X.asp

Quote:

*Important warranty information:*

Users are advised that disassembling the pumps, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids our warranty.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
You'll be fine trust me its not a big deal when you install a pump top.
There are no seals or sticker that warn of Void, so you'll be ok like everyone else.

Infact think of it this way,
Your putting a hat on head...then you take it off.
Who is gonna know you had a hat on?

I'm aware I am just backing up your statements since it says nothing about taking it apart









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Actually it does but there is pretty much no way Swiftech will ever know.

*Edit*

Hmm.. maybe it's only for the MCP35X. Cant find anything on their other pumps.

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp35X.asp

Probably because it has a top so to speak and they figure you shouldn't mod it anyway.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I'm aware I am just backing up your statements since it says nothing about taking it apart









Probably because it has a top so to speak and they figure you shouldn't mod it anyway.

Thanks









and yea that pump already has a top so upgrading it would be a waste


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I have heard several stories of swiftech rejecting MCP355 RMAs because of the use of after market pump tops. If they know you did, they WILL reject it.

just don't let them know you did though. ;-)


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
just don't let them know you did though. ;-)

_Looks over at worklog.._ "Uh oh"


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I have heard several stories of swiftech rejecting MCP355 RMAs because of the use of after market pump tops. If they know you did, they WILL reject it.

just don't let them know you did though. ;-)

well thats either because they were stupid enough to :
a) Tell them you had a top
b) Show a picture of a top
c) Ask why it doesn't fit...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
well thats either because they were stupid enough to :
a) Tell them you had a top
b) Show a picture of a top
c) Ask why it doesn't fit...

exactly, thus the second part of my post.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
exactly, thus the second part of my post. 

Exactly, Thus my post backing up the post backing my post of me proving a point


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Exactly, Thus my post backing up the post backing my post of me proving a point









...

...

updated?


----------



## AdvanSuper

I ordered cathodes from eBay and they are the same things at the Logisys with the stupid sound actuator crap thing. I don't feel like having a whole bunch of 3 pin to molex converters all over the place.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I ordered cathodes from eBay and they are the same things at the Logisys with the stupid sound actuator crap thing. I don't feel like having a whole bunch of 3 pin to molex converters all over the place.

You need something like this.


----------



## AdvanSuper

This is good to know for MCP355 owners and is why over tightening can cause damage to the pump. I have a 350 so I just think it's taking a crap since it wasn't that tight at all.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=153138


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
You need something like this.

Yeah, but I didn't want to pay $24 + shipping. I got the cathodes for $9.50 shipped.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I have heard several stories of swiftech rejecting MCP355 RMAs because of the use of after market pump tops. If they know you did, they WILL reject it.

just don't let them know you did though. ;-)

Probably meants they won't accept these back


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Probably meants they won't accept these back









haha, no probably not.


----------



## wermad

I'd say, as long as they don't know, go for it. You only have a few dollars to lose in shipping the thing if they deny your warranty. If they approve it, then cake for you









btw, my fan controller and case don't get along, it moves too much. can't wait to upgrade to a scythe kaze masta pro


----------



## whipple16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I have 3 260's and I was referring to GPU score not the vantage score in total. Below is my SS of the run










Blue indeed. Time to post a link to the background!!!


----------



## wermad

I hit 42k gpu in vantage, I still have a bit more headroom to oc my fermis, I wanna break 45k!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
I hit 42k gpu in vantage, I still have a bit more headroom to oc my fermis, I wanna break 45k!

Very nice







I'll have to check your build log, but I'm assuming you're running all three cards now







.


----------



## wermad

yes, the MSI I got from the egg on BlackFriday was faulty from the beginning, its being phased out, so no exchange, got a refund. Just got my new Zotac today and ran Vantage, runs smooth as butter, no crashing or system lockup that I got with the MSI. Still no block for it though


----------



## R00ST3R

Ok, so after a bit of an issue with one of the CPU block fittings deciding to leak a bit down the motherboard, I've finally installed the new reservoir and cleaned the fittings up a bit







.


















Going to swap out the output side with a true 5 way rotary next time I redo the loop.


















Had to add another pic of my OCN applique on the front







.


----------



## Willanhanyard

Thats one um... interesting psu you've got there...


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willanhanyard* 
Thats one um... interesting psu you've got there...









Yea, I keep meaning to do something with that







. It's a left over from my Black Dynamite theme I did a 'lil while back.


----------



## uncholowapo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Ok, so after a bit of an issue with one of the CPU block fittings deciding to leak a bit down the motherboard, I've finally installed the new reservoir and cleaned the fittings up a bit







.


















Going to swap out the output side with a true 5 way rotary next time I redo the loop.


















Had to add another pic of my OCN applique on the front







.

So who gets the most girls, your shagadelic PSU or you're cool CPU? rofl


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *uncholowapo* 
So who gets the most girls, your shagadelic PSU or you're cool CPU? rofl









The PSU of course







, especially when I'm wearing the matching thong underwear to go with it
















Hmmm, wonder what shag carpeting would look like in there









Here's a link to the Black Dynamite theme for those who have yet to get a good laugh from it : http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...tchcase012.jpg


----------



## alancsalt

Shag-adelic!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 







The PSU of course







, especially when I'm wearing the matching thong underwear to go with it
















Hmmm, wonder what shag carpeting would look like in there









Here's a link to the Black Dynamite theme for those who have yet to get a good laugh from it : http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...tchcase012.jpg

The disco ball completes the look


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 
The disco ball completes the look









i thought the revolver completed the look personally.


----------



## uncholowapo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare* 
i thought the revolver completed the look personally.









rofl


----------



## Willanhanyard

I have an idea! Someone needs to do a disco/revolver/red shag carpet/pot pipe/cheata skin/water cooling build!

Edit: wait, he already did one







.


----------



## Willanhanyard




----------



## wermad

t-virus and pump are


----------



## SKI_VT

Am i the only who thinks the T-Virus is Ugly?
I mean it has looked good in a couple cases but in general i don't like the T-virus :/


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Am i the only who thinks the T-Virus is Ugly?
I mean it has looked good in a couple cases but in general i don't like the T-virus :/


im with ya, it just never did it for me.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Am i the only who thinks the T-Virus is Ugly?
I mean it has looked good in a couple cases but in general *i don't like the T-virus* :/


Well I mean, it does turn you into a zombie so that is understandable.

I just like how it is different from your standard bay/cylinder res. Makes a build unique since not a ton of people have them..although that is changing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Am i the only who thinks the T-Virus is Ugly?
I mean it has looked good in a couple cases but in general i don't like the T-virus :/



Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


im with ya, it just never did it for me.












It looks awesome! Best looking res I have seen (may not be the best res overall though







)


----------



## alancsalt

Both leaking?


----------



## wermad

This is also nice looking too (its pricey like the FrozenQ too)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Am i the only who thinks the T-Virus is Ugly?
I mean it has looked good in a couple cases but in general i don't like the T-virus :/






























you can't say that doesn't look good.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you can't say that doesn't look good. 


yeah, ok. you got me, that looks good. but for my personal preference, i don't like them well enough to buy one.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

my 400mm one just shipped. Cannot wait to get my hands on it.


----------



## Striker36

i would LOVE one in my reactor build... but im not paying that much for a res.... i paid too much for the EK res...


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you can't say that doesn't look good. 


Did you read the part where i said there were exceptions?
In this case yours does indeed look good but yet you color matched your whole case and thus matching = good

Yet i still would not buy one....


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you can't say that doesn't look good. 


Of course it does







. At least some of us have a sense of style







. I don't, obviously....









Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


my 400mm one just shipped. Cannot wait to get my hands on it.


Me neither! Can't wait to see it in your sexy rig


----------



## airplaneman

Kev, what is with the bubbles!!! Gotta do somethin about that ha ha.

Do you mind taking a shot of your case in the dark with only the lights in the computer on (mainly the cathode in the res). My cathode broke as soon as I got it (shorted or something), so I never got to see it in action. I'm debating buying a new one, but I wanna know how it'll look first.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Kev, what is with the bubbles!!! Gotta do somethin about that ha ha.

Do you mind taking a shot of your case in the dark with only the lights in the computer on (mainly the cathode in the res). My cathode broke as soon as I got it (shorted or something), so I never got to see it in action. I'm debating buying a new one, but I wanna know how it'll look first.

those pics where during/immediately after filling. the bubbles went away about two days later.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
those pics where during/immediately after filling. the bubbles went away about two days later.


Yeah, figured as much.

Mind taking those shots for me sometime? =D


----------



## kevingreenbmx

haha, I will eventually, idk when though...

end of semester is mad busy


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

That's for sure, I have to start studying soon and finish up a 9 page research paper.

sighface.jpg


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, I will eventually, idk when though...

end of semester is mad busy

No worries, just post 'em up when you get a chance. I know what you mean...3 exams in 3 days for me, plus another one later on







.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Would a red Frozen Q res look nice in an all black case w/ white tubing?


----------



## wermad

I got three finals next week, and as usual, my procrastinating self is waiting last minute to study.

on a sweet note, I got past 43k in vantage, any further oc on my cards causes vantage to crash, I suspect my stock fermi is hitting well over 90Â° and the driver is crashing, so Im going to have to wait until I get my block to run 850 core. Any one know if ht on gives you a higher cpu score?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
Would a red Frozen Q res look nice in an all black case w/ white tubing?

I would probably go with a blue res for that..just me though.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
I would probably go with a blue res for that..just me though.

I'll consider it, just wish there were more pics of different colored Q reservoirs.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
I'll consider it, just wish there were more pics of different colored Q reservoirs.

Is this not enough?

You might be able to ask him to make one out of a more opaque acrylic so it doesn't look so clear.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
I got three finals next week, and as usual, my procrastinating self is waiting last minute to study.

on a sweet note, I got past 43k in vantage, any further oc on my cards causes vantage to crash, I suspect my stock fermi is hitting well over 90Â° and the driver is crashing, so Im going to have to wait until I get my block to run 850 core. Any one know if ht on gives you a higher cpu score?

that's just ur gpu score right? My cpu is really holding back my overall score, which sucks. Without voltage tweaking highest gpu score i've gotten so far was a p47k. voltage ramps it up to ~54k @970+core. Highest I can get one of my cards is 1043 and still be 3dmark stable. Can't get my cpu above 29k


----------



## pcnoob1

Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

yes i know a evga sticker on a amd build is lame. those are coming off after i buy a new card. for all i know it may be a evga card. doubt it.. but possible.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
Would a red Frozen Q res look nice in an all black case w/ white tubing?

Post some pics of your rig, it will be easier to tell


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
that's just ur gpu score right? My cpu is really holding back my overall score, which sucks. Without voltage tweaking highest gpu score i've gotten so far was a p47k. voltage ramps it up to ~54k @970+core. Highest I can get one of my cards is 1043 and still be 3dmark stable. Can't get my cpu above 29k

yup gpu, I tried max stable oc and voltage 850 & 1087v and vantage crashes. Furmark and Kombustor have no issue running this, just vantage, and two cards will run vantage to this max oc. I suspect its the 3rd card on the stock cooler







. cpu score is like 20k. Im thrilled to even have broken 40k on my 24/7 numbers (sig'd)


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
yup gpu, I tried max stable oc and voltage 850 & 1087v and vantage crashes. Furmark and Kombustor have no issue running this, just vantage, and two cards will run vantage to this max oc. I suspect its the 3rd card on the stock cooler







. cpu score is like 20k. Im thrilled to even have broken 40k on my 24/7 numbers (sig'd)

my 24/7 numbers are 45k (775 core) and 26k (4.0). Can get my cpu to 4.6, but only do it when I'm doing 970+ core vantage/ heaven runs since it's pretty much killing my cpu with 1.55V. I have one golden 480 and the others are ok. Wish they were all like my top performer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnoob1* 

yes i know a evga sticker on a amd build is lame. those are coming off after i buy a new card. for all i know it may be a evga card. doubt it.. but possible.

Looks pretty good, I hide my pump behind the mobo tray so it wouldn't clutter. Worked pretty well and still have great flow. .9gpm with all the blocks in my loop. I would suggest moving it closer to ur res, like right underneath it if u can and just mount it straight into the case

btw, how does ur cd drive work sideways?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

-delete-


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
my 24/7 numbers are 45k (775 core) and 26k (4.0). Can get my cpu to 4.6, but only do it when I'm doing 970+ core vantage/ heaven runs since it's pretty much killing my cpu with 1.55V. I have one golden 480 and the others are ok. Wish they were all like my top performer

max I could squeeze from my 24/7 oc @ 800 was 43k. I know I can break 45k if I had all three running at max oc 850. Im going to try w/ 825 on each to see if they can do it. I don't really push my fermis that often, so its really not a huge deal if I can't make it, they are performing quite exceptionally non-the-less.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
max I could squeeze from my 24/7 oc @ 800 was 43k. I know I can break 45k if I had all three running at max oc 850. Im going to try w/ 825 on each to see if they can do it. I don't really push my fermis that often, so its really not a huge deal if I can't make it, they are performing quite exceptionally non-the-less.

I refuse to run voltage tweaking on the cards with 24/7 operation, I feel that it's bad for the cards even if it's within spec. has to kill them quicker. They play everything maxed out even at stock so I only oc while playing metro in surround.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
I refuse to run voltage tweaking on the cards with 24/7 operation, I feel that it's bad for the cards even if it's within spec. has to kill them quicker. They play everything maxed out even at stock so I only oc while playing metro in surround.

True that


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
Looks pretty good, I hide my pump behind the mobo tray so it wouldn't clutter. Worked pretty well and still have great flow. .9gpm with all the blocks in my loop. I would suggest moving it closer to ur res, like right underneath it if u can and just mount it straight into the case

btw, how does ur cd drive work sideways?

thanks man. the build is still not where i want it to be but its getting there. the cd drive is just like a 360 standing up. holds the cds in place and works like it would if it were flat. as for the pump im going to order some bitspower bling to make it look better. also changing the coolant and fans to red, switch from barbs to compression fittings. im also gonna get a custom koolaid man vinyl made for the acrylic panel.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnoob1* 
thanks man. the build is still not where i want it to be but its getting there. the cd drive is just like a 360 standing up. holds the cds in place and works like it would if it were flat. as for the pump im going to order some bitspower bling to make it look better. also changing the coolant and fans to red, switch from barbs to compression fittings. im also gonna get a custom koolaid man vinyl made for the acrylic panel.

put a koolance inline filter on ur loop since you plan to use colored coolant. It saved my blocks from gunking when I used koolance premixed. Just have to check it once per month and maybe empty


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
put a koolance inline filter on ur loop since you plan to use colored coolant. It saved my blocks from gunking when I used koolance premixed. Just have to check it once per month and maybe empty

thanks! i didnt know they made something like that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnoob1* 
thanks! i didnt know they made something like that.

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=790


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
put a koolance inline filter on ur loop since you plan to use colored coolant. It saved my blocks from gunking when I used koolance premixed. Just have to check it once per month and maybe empty

Is that a 100% safety compared to distilled water? I love the look of colored water compared to color tubes.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

not 100%. I used to cut down the coolant down to around 40%, especially since it's not as good as distilled performance wise. Ran it for almost a year straight and after taking apart my gtx285 gpu block and my cpu-350 block there was no gunk at all. I cleaned the filter monthly, there was some gunk on occasion. Just put the filter between 2 pairs of quick disconnects. I'd say 85% safety if you don't cut it at all and use 100% coolant


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion* 
not 100%. I used to cut down the coolant down to around 40%, especially since it's not as good as distilled performance wise. Ran it for almost a year straight and after taking apart my gtx285 gpu block and my cpu-350 block there was no gunk at all. I cleaned the filter monthly, there was some gunk on occasion. Just put the filter between 2 pairs of quick disconnects. I'd say 85% safety if you don't cut it at all and use 100% coolant

Thanks, I guess I will play it safe then and stick to colored tubing.


----------



## LokSupguller

Hey guys.

Here's my current watercooling set-up:



Yes, it's not inside my case yet so I'll post up some more pics when I get it inside my case or you could follow my worklog.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bigfatwilly* 
Hey guys.

Here's my current watercooling set-up:



Yes, it's not inside my case yet so I'll post up some more pics when I get it inside my case or you could follow my worklog.

Work log, what is this work log you speak of?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bigfatwilly* 
Hey guys.

Here's my current watercooling set-up:



Yes, it's not inside my case yet so I'll post up some more pics when I get it inside my case or you could follow my worklog.

you need higher res pics. ;-)


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
you need higher res pics. ;-)

He is keeping them small for the people that have slow internet like me, plus he doesn't have a very good cam, that pic looks like it was from the time he was using a friends cam. Anyways, he is taking a new route on WC'ing a Scout that looks promising. This case really was not meant to be water cooled, it will fight you every step of they way.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 
He is keeping them small for the people that have slow internet like me, plus he doesn't have a very good cam

I can understand that, but that is too small for me to see what is going on...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I can understand that, but that is too small for me to see what is going on...

Check his work log out. Its in his sig


----------



## AdvanSuper

It needs to be posted in here


----------



## alienware

here's a little something i built. took about 4 months to complete.
i proudly present...PROJECT IAMEXTREME.


----------



## Liighthead

wow....O.O! nice work

btw what rad(s) u got in their? and nice paintjob :]


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alienware* 
here's a little something i built. took about 4 months to complete.
i proudly present...PROJECT IAMEXTREME.


----------



## mrtomek




----------



## loop0001

lol at the turf


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 
He is keeping them small for the people that have slow internet like me, plus he doesn't have a very good cam, that pic looks like it was from the time he was using a friends cam. Anyways, he is taking a new route on WC'ing a Scout that looks promising. *This case really was not meant to be water cooled, it will fight you every step of they way*.

its SO incredably true.... mine is still running just fine but if you want an internal rez... you better like cutting your case up XD

still a watercooled scout it where its at
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *alienware* 
here's a little something i built. took about 4 months to complete.
i proudly present...PROJECT IAMEXTREME.
snip











but i Do love these cases too...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
wow....O.O! nice work

btw what rad(s) u got in their? and nice paintjob :]

congrats on taking the 6000th post in this thread. ;-)


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alienware*


here's a little something i built. took about 4 months to complete. 
i proudly present...PROJECT IAMEXTREME. 









Awesome, awesome, awesome







Did I say AWESOME!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrtomek*













Quote:



Originally Posted by *loop0001*


lol at the turf


its "Surf n' Turf", surfing the net w/ nice looking turf


----------



## Willanhanyard

Why turf?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alienware*


here's a little something i built. took about 4 months to complete. 
i proudly present...PROJECT IAMEXTREME. 









Do you have any flow problems with all the angled fittings? That's a LOT of bends...


----------



## xToaDx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Do you have any flow problems with all the angled fittings? That's a LOT of bends...


that's what I was going to ask..
also, did you run out of money when it came time to buy the RAM?








oh wait, nevermind, I see all 3 in the first picture.


----------



## alienware

Thanks guys. And well how do i know if flow is ok or not. Im a total noob when it comes to technical stuff


----------



## AdvanSuper

Unless you have the equipment to measure it (which I doubt many even do) I would just go by how well or bad the temps are. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here lol.


----------



## crunchie

Finally finished off something I have been trying to get around to for a few months







.

This is how it spent it first few months:










Then finally bought a case to put it into.





































Laing D5 pump.
120.3 Radiator.
Swiftech GT CPU block.
EKFC GPU blocks.
XSPC Reservoir.
Killcoil.


----------



## EditeD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alienware* 



To ba dyou dont got blue dominators







Other than that, splendid build!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

oh man...

I am not sure how much of that was me and how much was my friends because i left my browser open at a party...

sorry guys, i will sort through that when i wake up in the morning...


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

That was bizarre... I've cleaned those posts out, so it should be fine now. Lemme know if there's any real problem.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
Finally finished off something I have been trying to get around to for a few months







.

This is how it spent it first few months:

IMG

Then finally bought a case to put it into.

IMG

Laing D5 pump.
120.3 Radiator.
Swiftech GT CPU block.
EKFC GPU blocks.
XSPC Reservoir.
Killcoil.

I'm assuming thats an XSPC bay rez up front?
Do you plz know the full name for that rez, or have a link to an ad for it?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Awahh... CC, they added character to the thread!


----------



## Oli4v

Project Duality rebuilded to a single loops setup

[email protected], Maybe once a better cpu(2e pc tenslotte).
-P5K Deluxe Wifi/[email protected] MCH1004 & Swiftech MCW3
- 4GB Dominator 1066 from RMA
- HD5850 (used to be a HD3870)
- [email protected]
- 2x 500GB WD [email protected] 0 + 1x WD Green 1.5TB
- modded Lian Li V1000

WC:
- D-tek Fuzion V2
- EK FC5850 nickel/plexi + nickel backplate
- MIPS MCH1004
- Swiftech MCW30
- Thermochill PA120.3 gepolijst
- DDC 18w+ EK X-top V2
- Multires 150 van EK
- some BP 3/8 HF barbs
- blue feser tubing
- Yate loons & 1 S-flex


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
I'm assuming thats an XSPC bay rez up front?
Do you plz know the full name for that rez, or have a link to an ad for it?

Only an Aussie link.

http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...oducts_id=2551


----------



## mm67

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
I'm assuming thats an XSPC bay rez up front?
Do you plz know the full name for that rez, or have a link to an ad for it?

Looks like this : http://www.xspc.biz/bayresalu.php


----------



## crunchie

One down-side to the XSPC res is that I had to tip the case right back until the front of the case was pointing at the ceiling in order to get the air pocket out of that shroud covering the outlet port.
Once I got the water flowing, I tipped it slightly the other way to get the rest of the trapped air to get sucked through the line.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
Only an Aussie link.

http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...oducts_id=2551

Good thing I'm only an Aussie then









Ah, I see, a rez only not a pump top rez. I like the water level bit though.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp* 
That was bizarre... I've cleaned those posts out, so it should be fine now. Lemme know if there's any real problem.

haha, thanks for that, I hope I didn't post anything TOO bad...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx* 
Awahh... CC, they added character to the thread!


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

haha, thanks for that, I hope I didn't post anything TOO bad...











Haha What happened, that i missed?


----------



## CyberDruid




----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Looks schweet, it's just a massive reservoir right?


----------



## yoyo711

thats a classy on cardboard, awsome


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*


Awahh... CC, they added character to the thread!


What're you talking about? All these juicy photos aren't doing that?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*


What're you talking about? All these juicy photos aren't doing that?










Not as much as the second most epic drunk post ever to grace OCN with its presence.

*sings* Apple bottom jeans.... boots with the...

Sorry, he got it stuck in my head









(If you were wondering what the most epic one was, it's everything Oli has ever posted smashed)


----------



## AdvanSuper

That's a big res. I thought you stopped making them?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*












Aurora Borealis


----------



## Striker36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*


(If you were wondering what the most epic one was, it's everything Oli has ever posted smashed)


heheheh..... i remember a couple of those...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx* 
Not as much as the second most epic drunk post ever to grace OCN with its presence.

*sings* Apple bottom jeans.... boots with the...

Sorry, he got it stuck in my head









(If you were wondering what the most epic one was, it's everything Oli has ever posted smashed)

haha, glad I did not make it to the level of upsetting #1... some of those are pretty intense


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
haha, glad I did not make it to the level of upsetting #1... some of those are pretty intense









Haha What did you do!!?!?!
I wasn't here for it unfortunetly...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SKI_VT* 
Haha What did you do!!?!?!
I wasn't here for it unfortunetly...

I don't remember what all was posted, but I know I left my browser open during a party at my apartment and that my very drunken friends and I had a bit of fun...


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
I don't remember what all was posted, but I know I left my browser open during a party at my apartment and that my very drunken friends and I had a bit of fun...

now I wish I had quoted your posts when they were up.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gdawg33* 
now I wish I had quoted your posts when they were up.

Well... hard deletions don't exist here on OCN. All you have to is convince CC that they belong here in the thread and they can come back!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Should I put the board under water? I'm aware it's almost pointless with the X58, but my mosfet would benefit a lot since it runs very hot on the E758 and has actually caused other boards to fry.

Is it also possible to paint EK block tops, more specifically the plexi mobo blocks?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Should I put the board under water? I'm aware it's almost pointless with the X58, but my mosfet would benefit a lot since it runs very hot on the E758 and has actually caused other boards to fry.

Is it also possible to paint EK block tops, more specifically the plexi mobo blocks?

Don't put them on water you'll probably upgrade to a new board soon enough









and yea you can paint them!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Really? I am getting one from Santa?!









I highly doubt I will upgrade to a new board unless it's dirt cheap like my E758.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Really? I am getting one from Santa?!









I highly doubt I will upgrade to a new board unless it's dirt cheap like my E758.

ohh well then get it!
God i thought you were actually going to buy it! not get it from santa


----------



## AdvanSuper

You made it like I was going to get it as a gift lol.


----------



## Willanhanyard

CyberDruid said:


> [/quote[/URL]] Dude, that thing's huge!!!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion




Willanhanyard said:


> Dude, that thing's huge!!!


 looks like it'll be going in a mountain mods case


----------



## ecaftermath

90$ for a Ek full water block?

planning to add another 5870...hmmm


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ecaftermath;11637273*
> 90$ for a Ek full water block?
> 
> planning to add another 5870...hmmm


$90 is cheap for full cover blocks, if you're concerned about price get a mcw60 or 80 and just get the vrm heatsink for ur gpu from swiftech


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11634972*
> looks like it'll be going in a mountain mods case


i would second that.


----------



## wermad

yup. 5-drive bay system from MM


----------



## Morizuno

hey guys, for my ek hf waterblock backplate, should the washers/nuts be touching the motherboard? Will this short anything?









Res/pump -->rad -->cpu--->NB-->res/pump

- 6 Primochill 5/8 OD clamps
-8ft black primochill tubing 7/16id 5/8OD
- 2 bitspower compression fitings
- 4 bitspower barbs
- XSPC pump/res 750lph
- EK 140mm radiator


----------



## brl3git

^Looks so sick, nice work.


----------



## Morizuno

Thanks! I'll be posting better pictures when it's day time and I can use some natural light.

Still wondering about the backplate


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11639127*
> hey guys, for my ek hf waterblock backplate, should the washers/nuts be touching the motherboard? Will this short anything?


Are you using the rubber gasket?

Make sure it goes: motherboard → washer → rubber gasket → metal backplate → screw


----------



## Morizuno

er, no :X

what should I do now?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11639328*
> er, no :X
> 
> what should I do now?


The smart thing to do is redo the Backplate.


----------



## Morizuno

alright, will do.

Where do I put the rubber thing?

Also, according to EK the nuts come after the washers, so its motherboard --> nuts -->washer


----------



## SKI_VT

motherboard → washer → rubber gasket → metal backplate → screw


----------



## Morizuno

So then why would the manual say to put the nuts after the washers?...


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11639391*
> So then why would the manual say to put the nuts after the washers?...


Thats on the other side,
Not the backplate.
Im pretty sure that the only nuts on the EK are on the Mobo/case side, but its been a while since i ripped my loop apart


----------



## SimpleTech

I used the wrong arrow direction (so used to ALT-2-6).

motherboard ← washer ← rubber gasket ← metal backplate ← screw


----------



## Striker36

ok. i just looked at mine.

from the back it goes.

Screw into mobo => back plate => rubber=>Spacer (you may not have them i did but a friend didnt)=> Mobo => fiber washer (red one) => Metal washer =>nut

then the block and spring and then thumbscrew.

i hope that helps


----------



## alancsalt

Should be some thick black pvc "washers" that act as standoffs too, with an EK Supreme HF. Striker's spacer, in the other plastic bag...


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11639635*
> Should be some thick black pvc "washers" that act as standoffs too, with an EK Supreme HF.


yea thats the "spacer" i have in my list. i had some when i got mine but when i put a rig together for a friend a couple weeks ago his didnt have any...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36;11639621*
> ok. i just looked at mine.
> 
> from the back it goes.
> 
> Screw into mobo => back plate => rubber=>Spacer (you may not have them i did but a friend didnt)=> Mobo => fiber washer (red one) => Metal washer =>nut
> 
> then the block and spring and then thumbscrew.
> 
> i hope that helps


I have this ^^^

edit: I added a few nylon washers


----------



## Morizuno

okay, I decided to remove the backplate and do it like this:

First screw
then red washer
Motherboard
red washer
metal washer
nut
cpu water block
spring
thumb nut

Will this work?


----------



## wermad

yup, don't forget the backplate and rubber washer, prevents damaging your mb and having to rma it


----------



## Morizuno

is the backplate really needed? and I didn't get any rubber washers.

The red washers are made out of PVC, will it protect my motherboard from shorts?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11639876*
> is the backplate really needed? and I didn't get any rubber washers.
> 
> The red washers are made out of PVC, will it protect my motherboard from shorts?


HEll ye its needed.
Unless you want a warped Mobo









I did'nt use any of the spacers or washers on the mobo side,
I used them them all up in with the backplate.

The rubber spacer is the that non metal Blackplate shaped Pice that comes with the block.
Its not a rubber washer..


----------



## Morizuno

oh, okay. I see what you mean now.

The directions ek gave me were confusing

First screw
*backplate*
then red washer
*rubber backplate*
Motherboard
red washer
metal washer
nut
cpu water block
spring
thumb nut

how's this?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11639983*
> oh, okay. I see what you mean now.
> 
> The directions ek gave me were confusing
> 
> First screw
> *backplate*
> then red washer
> *rubber backplate*
> Motherboard
> red washer
> metal washer
> nut
> cpu water block
> spring
> thumb nut
> 
> how's this?


You need the spacer in between the rubber backplate and motherboard to prevent the metal backplate from flexing too much.


----------



## alancsalt

Spacers, four of them. It's all about not flexing the mobo. 4 piles of fibre washers might be a substitute if you can get them. Enough for three or four mm at each corner/post to space backplate away from mobo.


----------



## wermad

for the sake of making it simple, ignore the bolts for now, this is how I sandwiched my supreme hf (round top)

metal backplate (this is sucker is thick gauge, I doubt it would bend easily







) > rubber spacer (same shape as the backplate) > mb > fiber-glass washers (red ones) >metal washers > m4 nut > supreme > springs > thumb screws.

insert your bolt from the back plate and screw. imo the backplate is beefy enough to prevent warping from tightening the thumb screws. so far, I've had this installed on three different mb and not one shorted or got warped


----------



## mav2000

Hey guys any ideas on where to get BLACK M4 x30 mm screws?


----------



## alancsalt

The backplate is beefy enough not to bend, but mobo is not. 
Step 6 of Socket 1366 instructions 
"Standoffs are used to prevent possible overtightening of screws and causing potential damage to PCB"
In step 7 you add the EPDM rubber insulator under backplate.

They seem to use them on 1156 and 1366, but not 775.
Your choice but.


----------



## wermad

amazon has a decent selection, check'em out









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mav2000*


Hey guys any ideas on where to get BLACK M4 x30 mm screws?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11640282*
> The backplate is beefy enough not to bend, but mobo is not.
> Step 6 of Socket 1366 instructions
> "Standoffs are used to prevent possible overtightening of screws and causing potential damage to PCB"
> In step 7 you add the EPDM rubber insulator under backplate.
> 
> They seem to use them on 1156 and 1366, but not 775.
> Your choice but.


just read the instructions and saw the standoffs for 1156/1366, Im currently not using them but I will add them now. I had two amd setups before and never used them, will do now


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mav2000*


Hey guys any ideas on where to get BLACK M4 x30 mm screws?


im looking myself, local hardware stores don't even have them in silver lol...


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


for the sake of making it simple, ignore the bolts for now, this is how I sandwiched my supreme hf (round top)

metal backplate (this is sucker is thick gauge, I doubt it would bend easily







) > rubber spacer (same shape as the backplate) > mb > fiber-glass washers (red ones) >metal washers > m4 nut > supreme > springs > thumb screws.

insert your bolt from the back plate and screw. imo the backplate is beefy enough to prevent warping from tightening the thumb screws. so far, I've had this installed on three different mb and not one shorted or got warped










thanks

doing it like this


----------



## tzillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


im looking myself, local hardware stores don't even have them in silver lol...











third item down.

http://www.mnpctech.com/M4_radiator_grill_screws.html

these are really nice. have them on all my rads.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

I got almost all my screws from mcmaster-carr, the only ones i needed that they didn't have where M3x30 button head black oxide screws


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


I got almost all my screws from mcmaster-carr, the only ones i needed that they didn't have where M3x30 button head black oxide screws


Same here, although I went with standard head.

They have black M4 30mm screws, part no. 91290A180, $8.68 for 100.


----------



## wermad

I've checked out mcmaster-carr, very impressive selection
















found my ek supreme standoffs. I was freaking out since I couldn't find them, I forgot to look in the box







. These one's are a lot wider than the ones I've seen on the mb and gpu blocks. anyone wants to know, they are about 8mm in diameter and 2mm thick.


----------



## Morizuno

I placed the waterblock like this:

screw
metal backplate
rubber backplate
motherboard
PVC red washer (x2 per screw)
metal washer
nut
waterblock
spring
thumb nut


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

Me being a dumbass and thinking "oh let me slap on the rad a bit to get some air out"... Well some air came out, but the motor on one of my UK's didn't like it.... Oh well UK's in push/pull here I come!


----------



## mav2000

Awesome selection of screws, wish we had a store like that here. But they dont ship outside US and MNPC Tech charges a lot more.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tzillian*


third item down.

http://www.mnpctech.com/M4_radiator_grill_screws.html

these are really nice. have them on all my rads.


also would cost me $34.93 with shipping for my push/pull setup.. thats crazy

i found some that are abit longer 1/8 inch longer that work just as good as the stock screws for only 3 cents each...


----------



## Freakn

RX360 & X20 450 have arrived today so hopefully I'll have a complete loop running by the weekend


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000;11640264*
> Hey guys any ideas on where to get BLACK M4 x30 mm screws?


Hmm, what about www.aquatuning.us ?


----------



## mav2000

I would love to but a whole lot of stuff from there but they insist on using the most expensive shipping. I am in india by the way


----------



## Andreoid

*Anfi-tec Asus rampage III extreme set*


----------



## t-ramp

Dang, those look nice, as do your other blocks.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Added a cathode when I changed the pump last night. Not a big fan of lights, but I like this.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11661821*
> Added a cathode when I changed the pump last night. Not a big fan of lights, but I like this.


Sometimes a single light really can make a system look great and yours is a lovely example of that


----------



## AdvanSuper

Haha thanks. I tried with two and it was too bright and looked bad. Now that I have a light I have to get a window for the side panel. The first is closer to how it looks in person.


----------



## jadawgis732

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienware;11608887*
> here's a little something i built. took about 4 months to complete.
> i proudly present...PROJECT IAMEXTREME.


This makes me very sad. If there's one point of consolation it's that, though you have corsair obsidian club in your sig, this isn't an 800d. Because I'm currently working on an 800D build with similar color scheme (white and aquamarine) and I thought for a second that maybe you had inverted the mobo tray. Thank god you didn't because I'd have thrown my case out the window if that was the case. Good job though. And by good job I mean I hate you.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Cant wait till i get my stuff orderd and it comes in i decided on the white primochil with black antikinks the case i orderd is black on inside.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

I decided not to get any lights or led/fans, etc for my current build. but Im tempted now, I was thinking of replacing my fans w/ Xigmateks:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11664182*
> Haha thanks. I tried with two and it was too bright and looked bad. Now that I have a light I have to get a window for the side panel. The first is closer to how it looks in person.


build update: just ordered gpu block #3, pics will come as soon as it arrives


----------



## koven

^ what model is that? any pics of it lit up?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11665327*
> ^ what model is that? any pics of it lit up?


XIGMATEK Cooling System XLF-F1254 120mm & XLF-F1455 140mm


----------



## koven

60+ CFM @ 16db? seems nice.. never liked LED's though, but i'd be interested in seeing one in a 700/800d

my white nzxt's are 26dB similar CFM...


----------



## wermad

Might get them for x-mas for moi







. The orange ones are very popular too.


----------



## kendoman

This is my newly built water cooled rig still not quite finished as I am adding a Danger Den res, backplates for 5870's and Scythe GT fans.

Build list
Koolance CPU-360
EK GPU Full water blocks 5870 x2
Thermochill pa-120.3
XSPC 240
MCP-655
EK Advanced 250 (soon to be danger den res\d5 combo)





































Just finished soldering red leds, and back plates to GPU's


----------



## fshizl

flushing system


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Mikecdm

Here's a phone pic. Took this before I started taking the loop apart.


----------



## wermad

^^^those feser compressions?


----------



## Mikecdm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11671170*
> ^^^those feser compressions?


All fittings are BP. BP compressions, bp dplugs, bp rotaries, bp T-fitting thing. There is also a aqua computer drain valve to the side.


----------



## Andreoid

Anfi-tec eXFRS limited edition


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated


I update your update.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Update new vga blocks:


----------



## DJLiquid

Couple shots of my reworked interior... put in some new 90* fittings to allow for some cleaner routing of the tubing


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

downdated


----------



## alancsalt

inundated


----------



## wermad

ot:







almost got to 45k gpu, I cranked up the fan manually to 90% and all three survived vantage running 850/1700/2000. just need a tad more. will try again w/ all under water...



bot: patiently waiting for fedex to deliver my 3rd block. sucks about the whole ek/pt.nuke/additives thing


----------



## AdvanSuper

What do you score with just 2?


----------



## wermad

like 30-32k in gpu


----------



## sunnyville

Just got my LittleDevil Case. It is just huge!


Sorry about the terrible photo - SLR not working at the moment


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunnyville;11683658*
> Just got my LittleDevil Case. It is just huge!
> 
> 
> Sorry about the terrible photo - SLR not working at the moment


That case is just sick, the only thing it needs is some dust filters.


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11684932*
> That case is just sick, the only thing it needs is some dust filters.


Yup, I ordered those









Just spent ages trying to route cables along the back with MDPC's cable clamps. They work great, especially in this case. There are some closeups of those clamps, though not behind the mobo, in my build log.

Still missing so many parts. As soon as christmas is a week or two off, the postage just slows down. By the end of next week (fingers crossed), this beast should be up and running!

I only bought two litres of coolant. Hopefully that is enough!


----------



## Jonesey I7

Here's mine, surely nothing special....but it's my first loop and I'm SUPER proud non the less.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Freakn

Test loop currently before I install it onto my tech station


----------



## matrices




----------



## Snips

oooo lemme jump onto the watercooling wagon as well! Just finished bleeding and leaktesting my first loop


























Btw I hate this case


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snips;11696895*
> oooo lemme jump onto the watercooling wagon as well! Just finished bleeding and leaktesting my first loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw I hate this case


your images are not working, fix it and let me know and I will add you to the list


----------



## Snips

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11697420*
> updated
> 
> your images are not working, fix it and let me know and I will add you to the list


Woopss, fixed XD


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11693347*
> Here's mine, surely nothing special....but it's my first loop and I'm SUPER proud non the less.


Looks great. Is that a 200mm fan on top? What sort of temps do you get?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Freakn

Loops now installed and running a different settings to try things out

[email protected] idled at 22c and load under 3dmark was only 24c. Just so far, intend [email protected]+ once I finish testing


----------



## alancsalt

I know this isn't really "good looking" enough to compete here, just my hobby rig, always part built, on it's way to the next stage.

Just got EK water blocks for the non-reference Palit 460 Sonic Platinums, so built a rad box for underneath. An RX360 on each side blowing out. Will try to get the water blocks in before Xmas.....



















The old tubing through the base trick. Gadz, the flash on matt black shows up dust that's otherwise invisible...


----------



## Snips

Hm....not rlly impressed with my processor temps, but my gpu temps are great now. My i7 950 idles on the H50 was arnd the high 40s and low 50s. Still the same now. 5 minutes on prime95 and temps fly up to the low 80s. Maybe it's cuz of the heat here lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;11698653*
> [email protected] idled at 22c and load under 3dmark was only 24c. Just so far, intend [email protected]+ once I finish testing


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;11698653*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loops now installed and running a different settings to try things out [email protected] idled at 22c and load under 3dmark was only 24c. Just so far, intend [email protected]+ once I finish testing[/QUOTE]
> 
> You don't use 3D Mark to test your load temps. You need to use Prime 95 or any equivalent program. Not sure what [email protected] and [email protected]+ mean either.


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;11698653*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loops now installed and running a different settings to try things out
> 
> [email protected] idled at 22c and load under 3dmark was only 24c. Just so far, intend [email protected]+ once I finish testing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11700709*


Sorry probably need to explain that better, was in a rush.

My chip is a 550BE, so its a locked down quad. Once you unlock the extra cores you loose temp monitoring on the cores.

So i was running it as a stock dual core to gauge what the temps will be. Then unlock it back to the quad and start pushing it.


----------



## AdvanSuper

But 3D Mark doesn't push your temps.


----------



## Freakn

It's just a starting point.

As it is I think I've pushed this chip too much on air, can't even get it to pass 3dmark11 @ 3.9 with 1.55volts


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;11704654*
> As it is I think I've pushed this chip too much


ha, welcome to the club.


----------



## wermad

another run on vantage and still, im about 500 gpu points off 45k. vantage does push your gpu to the max. use IBT to test load on my cpu


----------



## AdvanSuper

Give me a 470... You don't need a 3rd.


----------



## repo_man

Can I join the club?







I finally went WC. This is the second iteration of this loop (went from my tech bench into my current case-mod project case - Vapor Locked ) so be gentle on me, lol. It's a big work in progress as I change the case and buy some new water parts. I want to WC the GPU instead of the CPU and get a res top for the DDC.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Your case has 3rd degree burns!


----------



## Morizuno

why do you have poop rubbed all over your components and case


----------



## AdvanSuper

At least I tried to put it nicely....


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11717196*
> Your case has 3rd degree burns!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11717208*
> why do you have poop rubbed all over your components and case


Check out the build log. It is an abandoned steampunk build. Complete with rust and oxidation.


----------



## jp27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11717208*
> why do you have poop rubbed all over your components and case


LOLL!!! +1 that looks terrible im sorry


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jp27;11718052*
> LOLL!!! +1 that looks terrible im sorry


lol, it's different to say the least


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jp27;11718052*
> LOLL!!! +1 that looks terrible im sorry


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11718082*
> lol, it's different to say the least


It's not finished. Like I said, check the log to get the whole idea. It's somewhat out of context here. Mod in progress.


----------



## Zamoldac

Looks like someone took a dump on your case bro, btw where's the matching toilet paper?
joking


----------



## Dustinthewind

Stop ripping on him :< I'd rather see that than look at a thousand variations of black and *insert any other color here*.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustinthewind;11718216*
> Stop ripping on him :< I'd rather see that than look at a thousand variations of black and *insert any other color here*.


In a HAF or 800D/700D







But it does look like he rubbed poop on it right in those pics







but if you look in his log he does have better pics of the non poop rust.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11714855*
> Give me a 470... You don't need a 3rd.


Yes I do need all three.

all three are under water now


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11718261*
> ... but if you look in his log he does have better pics of the non poop rust.


Thank you. Geez.


----------



## alancsalt

Kinda rusto-rod. (If you know the car thing) Not a trailer queen.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11718261*
> but if you look in his log he does have better pics of the non poop rust.


i lol'd. most times i've read the word poop in a while...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11718354*
> Yes I do need all three.


NO ONE needs tri-sli, and that is coming from another guy that has three cards. 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man;11718440*
> Thank you. Geez.


Looks good to me repo, I do hope you get back to working on it at some point. ;-)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man;11717174*


This is an epic and very original build. I've been following it too. For those ignorant (no offense) about what is "Steam Punk" look it up (ie google it) and then take a moment to view repo's awesome build log







.


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11718528*
> Looks good to me repo, I do hope you get back to working on it at some point. ;-)


You goof!







I just updated the log with these water pics! >_< lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man;11718587*
> You goof!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just updated the log with these water pics! >_< lol


sorry, should have been more specific, back to working on the steam-punk aspects of the build. ;-) I know you updated with the water cooling stuff, I am sub'd to the thread.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11718354*
> Yes I do need all three.
> 
> all three are under water now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> How hot did they run on air? I should be getting 2 within the next week or so.


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11718729*
> sorry, should have been more specific, back to working on the steam-punk aspects of the build. ;-) I know you updated with the water cooling stuff, I am sub'd to the thread.


Oh ok, lol. I thought you were subb'd!







Yea, I'll hopefully find some wire small enough for the copper tubing over the break. Then I can move forward with the fan controller mod and finish it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11718528*
> updated
> NO ONE needs tri-sli, and that is coming from another guy that has three cards.


We needs ours precioussssssssssssssss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11718752*
> How hot did they run on air? I should be getting 2 within the next week or so.


on air, w/ the fan @ 80% 70-80°C, fan @ 50-60% 80-90°. so far my first two cards running vantage would max out at 50 & 53°c each on water. Can't wait to run all three and break 45k gpu


----------



## asakurahao

I finally finished my first WC loop. Please let me join the club


----------



## Aleckazee

I'm building my first watercooled comp soon and I have a question. I want to wc the cpu, gpu and maybe the northbridge. I'm getting the AMD Phenom II 955 quad (and going to overclock) and the ATI 6870 (also going to overclock). Do you think a 360mm rad (low air flow) would be enough or should I go for a 480mm rad?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee;11719426*
> I'm building my first watercooled comp soon and I have a question. I want to wc the cpu, gpu and maybe the northbridge. I'm getting the AMD Phenom II 955 quad (and going to overclock) and the ATI 6870 (also going to overclock). Do you think a 360mm rad (low air flow) would be enough or should I go for a 480mm rad?


yes


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunnyville;11683658*
> Just got my LittleDevil Case. It is just huge!
> 
> 
> Sorry about the terrible photo - SLR not working at the moment


I want that case so bad but too expensive for my budget


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11719450*
> yes


Yes to 360 or yes to 480 or yes to both, lol


----------



## crunchie

I'm running my 1090T plus my 2 6870's with a 360 rad, no problems. Ambients get pretty high in this part of the world too








.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11719056*
> We needs ours precioussssssssssssssss
> 
> on air, w/ the fan @ 80% 70-80°C, fan @ 50-60% 80-90°. so far my first two cards running vantage would max out at 50 & 53°c each on water. Can't wait to run all three and break 45k gpu


What WB's did you get for them?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11719636*
> Yes to 360 or yes to 480 or yes to both, lol


for cpu + gpu, the 360 is more than enough, it'll even handle one more block. if your planning on some oc, go w/ a thick 360 rad. a 480 is useful when you have a multi block setup (like mine) or you just wants the bragging rights that you own one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11719929*
> What WB's did you get for them?


all ek blocks:

cpu: Supreme HF (round top) Nickel/Plexi
MB: FC-ASUS RE3 Nickel/Plexi
GPU: FC470-GTX NickeL/Plexi + Nickel Backplates.


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


for cpu + gpu, the 360 is more than enough, it'll even handle one more block. if your planning on some oc, go w/ a thick 360 rad. a 480 is useful when you have a multi block setup (like mine) or you just wants the bragging rights that you own one.

.


What about this rad? http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=814

would it handle overclocked CPU, GPU and a northbridge ok?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*


What about this rad? http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=814

would it handle overclocked CPU, GPU and a northbridge ok?


for those blocks yes, Koolance makes good stuff, but tbh, they are not my first picks for rads. check out xspc, hl/black-ice, ek, swiftech, thermochill, feser, magicool, etc. Im a big fan of xspc, Im running their fabulous RX360.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ttoadd.nz

New case and rads


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee;11719468*
> I want that case so bad but too expensive for my budget


it'll probably run you less than a TJ11 though, with it's price point being somewhere between 400 & 600 $.

Also for me I spend money on watercooling, not so much on having the latest bad-ass hardware







Just like to tinker


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;11723459*
> New case and rads


I would be interested in how you got that 360 up there.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;11723868*
> I would be interested in how you got that 360 up there.


The case comes with adapters to fit a 360 rad standard.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;11723954*
> The case comes with adapters to fit a 360 rad standard.


Two rads in one loop. Can I plz ask what pump you are using, and whether you're using more than one?


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Using a single MCP655 vario with bitspower top. Plenty of power for 2 rads.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;11723954*
> The case comes with adapters to fit a 360 rad standard.


Oh I didnt know that. That is really nice to know i think i will do that


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11718584*
> This is an epic and very original build. I've been following it too. For those ignorant (no offense) about what is "Steam Punk" look it up (ie google it) and then take a moment to view repo's awesome build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks bro, I missed this post earlier!


----------



## Gigalisk

See my gallery.

I went with the Swiftech Ultima XT Kit. Comes with MCP655 Pump, 2x120mm Rad, Res, and LGA 1366 waterblock. The Fluid is actually a mix: Its 50% Distilled Water, 30% Radiator Fluid, and 20% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol, just to kill any germs that can cause algae.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11724960*
> Two rads in one loop. Can I plz ask what pump you are using, and whether you're using more than one?


I have 4 rads in my loop and only a single MCP355









water cooling pumps are pretty powerful, don't normally have to worry about them.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11726029*
> See my gallery.
> 
> I went with the Swiftech Ultima XT Kit. Comes with MCP550(?) Pump, 2x90mm Rad, Res, and LGA 1366 waterblock. The Fluid is actually a mix: Its 50% Distilled Water, 30% Radiator Fluid, and 20% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol, just to kill any germs that can cause algae.


u used alchol in a loop? woun't that eat the ruber and make leaks?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11726029*
> The Fluid is actually a mix: Its 50% Distilled Water, 30% Radiator Fluid, and 20% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol, just to kill any germs that can cause algae.


Why are you using radiator fluid?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys! I am getting an SSD for x-mas and I have a few questions, any of you who have SSDs should go look and help me out:

http://www.overclock.net/ssd/894596-ssd-raid-controler.html

Thanks!


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11727646*
> hey guys! I am getting an SSD for x-mas and I have a few questions, any of you who have SSDs should go look and help me out:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/ssd/894596-ssd-raid-controler.html
> 
> Thanks!


What Krusher said.


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;11726901*
> u used alchol in a loop? woun't that eat the ruber and make leaks?


Alcohol has great heat transfer properties as exhibited in high performance race cars under VERY strenuous thermal conditions, up in the 300-550 degree farenheit range. Under performance computing stresses, the hottest your probably looking at is 200, although thats pretty hot. After trying a couple mixes, i found that the current mix i have actually dissipates heat through the radiator a little better; in fact 2-5degrees farenheit better, than just water; and about 1-2 degrees better than the fluid that comes from manufacturers like koolance or Tt.

To answer your question, yes, alcohol does eat through RUBBER. My pipes, as are many pipes, are made of Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC), and are not easily succeptable to such degradation. HOWEVER, if i used something stronger, lets say, Denatured Alcohol, Ethanol, Wood Alcohol, those varieties are a little more harsh on the types of pvc that are built for waterloops. I used Isopropyl, which is already a diluted solution of water and alcohol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;11727110*
> Why are you using radiator fluid?


For the same reasons that you would use it in a car: get rid of heat! I know for sure everyone knows the purpose of radiator fluid. Radiator fluid is very safe as most radiator fluids are water-based. However, i have seen the inside of a radiator after it was used and used without proper flushing. You can build up deposits on surfaces that are not treated, like unpainted metal. Eventually the radiator on a waterloop can suffer the same fate, but way later than in a normal car, where continuous cycles between high heat and low temperature environments can put stress on metals exposed to heated liquids repeatedly.

Hope i answered your questions guys! I have seen someone use Toyota steering fluid for its Ruby Red color to match his EVGA X58 Classified, but this was way before the classified came out for X58.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11728954*
> For the same reasons that you would use it in a car: get rid of heat! I know for sure everyone knows the purpose of radiator fluid. Radiator fluid is very safe as most radiator fluids are water-based. However, i have seen the inside of a radiator after it was used and used without proper flushing. You can build up deposits on surfaces that are not treated, like unpainted metal. Eventually the radiator on a waterloop can suffer the same fate, but way later than in a normal car, where continuous cycles between high heat and low temperature environments can put stress on metals exposed to heated liquids repeatedly.


Radiator fluid is more so used to prevent the water from freezing, when being used in a computers water loop, it does nothing but make your temps worse. ( same goes for using alcohol ) You can't compare cars to computers, just doesn't work that way.


----------



## wermad

distilled + silver, simple and effective.


----------



## Gigalisk

I assure you, but dont have to, that i did these tests and came to these conclusions that worked better for me. Wish i took pictures of the initial tests, but i didnt. I benched to 4.2Ghz on this mixture, so i'm satisfied...been running the same formula since March 2009.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11726029*
> To answer your question, yes, alcohol does eat through RUBBER. My pipes, as are many pipes, are made of Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC), and are not easily succeptable to such degradation. HOWEVER, if i used something stronger, lets say, Denatured Alcohol, Ethanol, Wood Alcohol, those varieties are a little more harsh on the types of pvc that are built for waterloops. I used Isopropyl, which is already a diluted solution of water and alcohol.


That may be true with the tubeing but what about rubber o-rings/seals for your pump,fittings, blocks?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11729205*
> I assure you, but dont have to, that i did these tests and came to these conclusions that worked better for me. Wish i took pictures of the initial tests, but i didnt. I benched to 4.2Ghz on this mixture, so i'm satisfied...been running the same formula since March 2009.


You can find some tests from here : http://skinneelabs.com/coolants.html


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11729320*
> That may be true with the tubeing but what about rubber o-rings/seals for your pump,fittings, blocks?


I'm using aluminum barbs with plastic clips. Take a look at my gallery. If i dont have pics in there, let me know and i'll put some new ones when i get a chance.


----------



## SimpleTech

New motherboard:


----------



## koven

looks classy


----------



## koven

here's mine so far, waiting on some more parts to come in before i leak test.. gotta flip the block too


----------



## selfdz87

nice setup bro!!!


----------



## koven

thanks, cant wait to get it up and running


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11736320*
> thanks, cant wait to get it up and running


that 570 looks thirsty though, i think she needs a drink of water too, no?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11735264*
> here's mine so far, waiting on some more parts to come in before i leak test.. gotta flip the block too


hmm...how's the pump connected to the res? can't see from that pic


----------



## Sizuke

From the picture it looks Pump>Block>Rad>Res>Pump but i cant see the res to pump connection either!


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11736356*
> hmm...how's the pump connected to the res? can't see from that pic


i suspect it has something to do with this...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11735264*
> waiting on some more parts to come in before i leak test..


----------



## Sizuke

Ah well spotted


----------



## wermad

damn it, I should have read the post w/ the pic,









for a minute there, the pic was baking my noodle (im tired), either the pump and res were connected with a tube tucked away from behind to give off an illusion or its using a super crystal clear tube


----------



## koven

lol yeah still waiting on 2 more compression fittings (cheaped out on shipping lol).. at first i was going to use extenders to connect the pump/res, but i ended up mounting the res higher than planned (so the top tube is leveled), so i figure i just get 2 more fittings and put a short tube there instead
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eloverton2;11736351*
> that 570 looks thirsty though, i think she needs a drink of water too, no?


i debated over this but figured i can always add it in the future.. i'll probably bite when they release 570 backplates... but 570 on air should be plenty for me right now, i only do some light gaming.. mainly trying to go for a high oc and dont want to share the rad w/ a fermi (albeit gf110).. hopefully i can do 4.2-4.4ghz 24/7


----------



## eloverton2

you should be able to do 4.2 easy... 4.3 is the highest ive gotten prime stable. g'luck and nice rig!


----------



## koven

thanks!!


----------



## 808MP5

XSPC, Swiftech, HWLab, AquaComputer, Koolance, BitsPower, Tygon, Enzotech, EK, etc...





































More Pics Here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/808mp5/sets/72157625591431114/


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;11736751*
> XSPC, Swiftech, HWLab, AquaComputer, Koolance, BitsPower, Tygon, Enzotech, EK, etc...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics Here
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/808mp5/sets/72157625591431114/


That is overwhelming









Nice work


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;11736751*
> XSPC, Swiftech, HWLab, AquaComputer, Koolance, BitsPower, Tygon, Enzotech, EK, etc...
> 
> More Pics Here
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/808mp5/sets/72157625591431114/


i'd always dreamed of the day i would see the first computer that would become skynet... and i have seen it, and it is beautiful


----------



## wermad

wow, Tron computer! nice









I kinda miss my old Extended Ascension, but Im cool with my current build


----------



## selfdz87

nice rig u have there *808MP5*








1 word....awesome!!!!


----------



## Zamoldac

Great job man, that's one of the best watercooled systems I've seen so far







.
PS: Nice flickr pics.


----------



## g137murk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;11736751*
> XSPC, Swiftech, HWLab, AquaComputer, Koolance, BitsPower, Tygon, Enzotech, EK, etc...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics Here
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/808mp5/sets/72157625591431114/


Thats beastly, nice using the 45s so theres no 90s keeps flow up. I just realized it looks like the flux capacitor (Upside-down though).


----------



## [CyGnus]

808MP5 that is a great work very beautiful congratz


----------



## fr0st.

The amount BP fittings in your loop probably cost more then my friends computer.


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;11729385*
> You can find some tests from here : http://skinneelabs.com/coolants.html


Read it...thanks


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


The amount BP fittings in your loop probably cost more than most peoples computer.


fixed !

nice rig, terminator was the first thing that popped in my head lol


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *808MP5*


XSPC, Swiftech, HWLab, AquaComputer, Koolance, BitsPower, Tygon, Enzotech, EK, etc...


Well, just WOW!
I would call that an "installation" on the level of art.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

808MP5 is our newest award winner.


----------



## Mr. Scary

WOW IS RIGHT! 808 U DA MAN~!~!~!

Inspiring!

M$


----------



## ecaftermath

hey all

i need some help here.. im setting up my rig right now from barbs to compression.

i'm using tfc's 45 degree rotary and straight..

the problem here is that the rotaries are leaking A LOT! i screwed it tight..it's the part where it moves is leaking.. so when i turn it a bit or pull towards me a bit, it leaks..no it squirts water out..lol

helppP!!

EDIT:

here's a pic










it's the outtake on the pump and intake on the gpu block..

the fittings are defective?


----------



## jp27

should have got bitspower rotary most people use those no leak


----------



## AdvanSuper

Did the fittings have washers?


----------



## qbical

I made a post in the water cooling section, should I have made it here?


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11747727*
> Did the fittings have washers?


no..just an o ring on the male part


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Got my loop up and running getting decent temps i guess folding at 48-50c and running boinc same time on my 5870 and it never passes 42c.


















XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetal
XSPC RX360 - Triple 120mm high performance radiator
XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25" Reservoir for Laing D5
Swiftech MCP655-B
EK-FC5870 V1 Acetal+Nickel
EK High Flow Fittings
PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD
6x YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SH-12


----------



## sunnyville

Little Devil PC-V8. Finally finished. Was a nightmare, my fingers are in pain from pulling tubing over barbs, the rads were much bigger and took up more space than I anticipated, but in the end it wall worked out! 3x480 rads (2 in the bottom, one in the top), 2 serial D5's, EK Multioption X2 250ml res, i7 950 @ 4.3, reaches temps of 76/77 (core) when under extreme load (prime 95). Water temp gets maximum to 31.9, which at a room temperature of 23/24 degrees works out to a delta of 7.9. I guess I could get more with better fans (this are terrible, but left over from previous build)


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol i hear you sunnyvile my fingers hurt to and my finger nails i bent back trying to get clamps on.


----------



## saint19

Building my custom LCS, I hope join to the team soon.


----------



## sunnyville

And not to forget my back, it absolutely caned after being in a weird posture, have standing, have haunched, trying to fit the radiator in the top of the case. But you feel so much better when it's done, like it was totally worth it


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunnyville;11749858*
> And not to forget my back, it absolutely caned after being in a weird posture, have standing, have haunched, trying to fit the radiator in the top of the case. But you feel so much better when it's done, like it was totally worth it


haha yea i hear you i had fun getting my rx360 and push pull fans in top of my case but i was lucky i just did it on my bed and my chair lined perfect so no bending for me.


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11749876*
> haha yea i hear you i had fun getting my rx360 and push pull fans in top of my case but i was lucky i just did it on my bed and my chair lined perfect so no bending for me.


Well, I only have a pull config at the moment, so when the time for push/pull comes I'll keep that "technique" in mind


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol yea i started doing my water at like 7pm and i didnt finish it till 6am after all the leak testing and stuff. Lol and letting it run now to try to get rid of the bubbles i have noticed a ton of them have left in the last 2hrs.


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11749981*
> lol yea i started doing my water at like 7pm and i didnt finish it till 6am after all the leak testing and stuff. Lol and letting it run now to try to get rid of the bubbles i have noticed a ton of them have left in the last 2hrs.


funny, worked on it most of the night too hehe. Then left it leak testing while I slept (risky I know), but when I woke up, what a surprise: the forth in the tube cylinder is gone (had me worried at first, never had a tube res before) and almost no bubbles. I just wish I know what flowrate I had.


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

My first WC


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;11750162*
> My first WC


If that really is your first, then great job! Very clean set-up!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao;11719389*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally finished my first WC loop. Please let me join the club


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee;11719426*
> I'm building my first watercooled comp soon and I have a question. I want to wc the cpu, gpu and maybe the northbridge. I'm getting the AMD Phenom II 955 quad (and going to overclock) and the ATI 6870 (also going to overclock). Do you think a 360mm rad (low air flow) would be enough or should I go for a 480mm rad?


yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;11723459*
> New case and rads
> 
> 
> 
> [


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;11736751*
> XSPC, Swiftech, HWLab, AquaComputer, Koolance, BitsPower, Tygon, Enzotech, EK, etc...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;11750162*
> My first WC


Nice looking rigs


----------



## kevingreenbmx

c'mon fannblade, you know better than to quote that many pics.


----------



## FannBlade

Sorry guess I forgot to hit delete when I highlighted them.

I'll go stand in a corner.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11752140*
> Sorry guess I forgot to hit delete when I highlighted them.
> 
> I'll go stand in a corner.


haha, it's ok...









...

...this time.


----------



## 808MP5

Thanks Everyone For The Warm Watercooled Welcome To OCN...
And Thank You For The Great Comments...
This Was My Second WC'd Build Since My First Failed Build Back In 2006 When TT Was Pretty Much One Of The Only Companies Producing Retail WC Equipment Besides HWLabs And A Few Others...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacobthellamer;11736776*
> That is overwhelming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eloverton2;11736781*
> i'd always dreamed of the day i would see the first computer that would become skynet... and i have seen it, and it is beautiful


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11736972*
> wow, Tron computer! nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda miss my old Extended Ascension, but Im cool with my current build


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selfdz87;11737087*
> nice rig u have there *808MP5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 word....awesome!!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac;11737264*
> Great job man, that's one of the best watercooled systems I've seen so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> PS: Nice flickr pics.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g137murk;11737295*
> Thats beastly, nice using the 45s so theres no 90s keeps flow up. I just realized it looks like the flux capacitor (Upside-down though).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus];11738500*
> 808MP5 that is a great work very beautiful congratz


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11738673*
> The amount BP fittings in your loop probably cost more then my friends computer.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11741985*
> fixed !
> 
> nice rig, terminator was the first thing that popped in my head lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11742787*
> Well, just WOW!
> I would call that an "installation" on the level of art.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11743574*
> updated
> 
> 808MP5 is our newest award winner.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr. Scary;11745028*
> WOW IS RIGHT! 808 U DA MAN~!~!~!
> 
> Inspiring!
> 
> M$


----------



## AMOCO

I would like to join.Well here is my rig:

XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetal
XSPC X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir Pump
XSPC RS360 Black Radiator
6x 120mm (1700-1800 RPM) Fansush/Pull
PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing- 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD

Getting a Koolance Crosshair III Formula Motherboard Waterblock next month:http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=965

And I will post new pictures of the Motherboard Waterblock installed then,Here is what it look like now:


----------



## FannBlade

Nice can't wait to see the upgrade.

but, really you have to get rid of the IDE cable, nice sig rig specs!


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11754355*
> Nice can't wait to see the upgrade.
> 
> but, really you have to get rid of the IDE cable, nice sig rig specs!


Thank you,But I like my 2 DVD's(1 Sata,1 IDE).Have no more Sata slots open,Thats why I have the IDE DVD.


----------



## FannBlade

ahhhh that makes sense, you have alot of HD's


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11754426*
> ahhhh that makes sense, you have alot of HD's


2x 320GB.(Raid0)/1x 1TB./1x 250GB.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Timechange01

My prototype:










Full loop should be ready in about a week because Im currently waiting for some parts to arrive


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## sunnyville

LD PC-V8










edit: I know the fans look terrible but they were lying around


----------



## v1ral

Dude that looks nice


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral;11760210*
> Dude that looks nice


thanks!


----------



## Snips

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sunnyville*


ld pc-v8










edit: I know the fans look terrible but they were lying around










I want that case!


----------



## selfdz87

@sunnyville
nice rig bro...
i love ur case....
are u building a watercool server?lol...


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:



Originally Posted by *selfdz87*


@sunnyville
nice rig bro...
i love ur case....
are u building a watercool server?lol...










*overkill* is not in my vocabulary,








All I've got in this is one 5870 and an overclocked i7. Oh, and TONS of cooling power


----------



## selfdz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunnyville;11760378*
> All I've got in this is one 5870 and an overclocked i7. Oh, and *TONS* of cooling power


yeah i can see that....


----------



## wermad

Still waiting to order a ddc 3.2 next week, important update to my build (wink, wink, on the bottom left of the door







)



















Thanks to Roost for the ocn decal hook up


----------



## FannBlade

sweet!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## v1ral

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Still waiting to order a ddc 3.2 next week, important update to my build (wink, wink, on the bottom left of the door







)



















Thanks to Roost for the ocn decal hook up










How can I get one of those ocn things
I want to represent!!
v1ral
*I was gonna make a sticker haha...


----------



## repo_man

wermad, nice build man! I saw those GPU bridges online and haven't seen one in use until now. Seems pretty sweet!


----------



## Colonel Sanders

Hey, count me in! Still working on my WC. Right now i only have my cpu wet, next are the video cards once i get everything in. Sorry for the crappy pics, from an iPhone. Ill take some pics with my camera for some better quality and upload them when i get a chance. Here are some for now, just a few that i have since im at work!


----------



## Colonel Sanders

Sorry forgot to include the pics!









Attachment 186457

Attachment 186458

Attachment 186459

Attachment 186460

Attachment 186461

And the list of parts:

- Swiftech Apogee XT CPU Block

- Swiftech MCP 655 Variable Speed Pump

- HardwareLabs SR-1 360 Rad

- XSPC Dual Bay Split Reservoir

- Bitspower 1/2" Compression Fittings

- Primochill 1/2" ID 3/4" OD UV Blue Tubing


----------



## Colonel Sanders

And these are next to get cooled..









Attachment 186462


----------



## FannBlade

Love the BLUE!


----------



## infinite illusions

I'm not a huge fan of blue, but you made it look really nice. Awesome job with the build.


----------



## Colonel Sanders

Thanks guys! Yeah it started out as red, that was until i got my mobo and there are literally about 25-30 blue led's on it, so the whole inside was blue. So i figuered i would just go with the blue theme. lol


----------



## fr0st.

Merry Christmas from Australia guys!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11761796*
> Still waiting to order a ddc 3.2 next week, important update to my build (wink, wink, on the bottom left of the door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


That looks great wermad!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11761796*
> Thanks to Roost for the ocn decal hook up


You're welcome bud. I had an intuition you would put it to good use







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral;11762239*
> How can I get one of those ocn things
> I want to represent!!
> v1ral
> *I was gonna make a sticker haha...


I had an extra from the Great Applique Giveaway. I would have an extra one to give away, but I never received my prize from winning the prestigious BUM awards a couple months back







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;11764357*
> I had an extra from the Great Applique Giveaway. I would have an extra one to give away, but I never received my prize from winning the prestigious BUM awards a couple months back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


wth









So, more pics:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I redid my loop to cut out some extra tubbing looks cleaner to me.


----------



## JE Nightmare

time to cut up that case for some better cable management.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol its just those hardrives mainly and theirs not any way to hide the cables really.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

x-mas update!!!!!

merry x-mas!!!!

oh, and Bal3Wolf, there is ALWAYS a way to hide the cables.







just gotta put in some time with the dremel


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11768133*
> x-mas update!!!!!
> 
> merry x-mas!!!!
> 
> oh, and Bal3Wolf, there is ALWAYS a way to hide the cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just gotta put in some time with the dremel


This. I've done cable management in an off-the-shelf HP Pavilion case; you can do it too!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man;11762245*
> wermad, nice build man! I saw those GPU bridges online and haven't seen one in use until now. Seems pretty sweet!


Thanks! The bridge is a bit pricey compared to using fittings or tube, but its damn sexy


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11768518*
> Thanks! The bridge is a bit pricey compared to using fittings or tube, but its damn sexy


Yea it does look nice. I'm so used to seeing tubing there that it almost looks like some huge SLI bridge or something, LOL.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Add a 3rd 470 or just 2 and WC them??? Either way I'd be looking at spending more one way being a 3rd GPU and new PSU then the other being fittings, rad and blocks. I already have one 470 on the way and debating on buying 1 or 2 when the first arrives.


----------



## wermad

gtx 470 are hitting the $200 mark, some lower than that. Keep an eye on the reference design ones or you'll have issues adding a water block to it (a fc block).


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11768706*
> gtx 470 are hitting the $200 mark, some lower than that. Keep an eye on the reference design ones or you'll have issues adding a water block to it (a fc block).


I know. I got an EVGA 470 for $195 shipped and plan on keeping them all EVGA. Right now there isn't anything on OCN or [H] for 470's just a few 480's floating around, but I know of a couple who are selling their 470's with no thread though.


----------



## wermad

Im getting a replacement MSI in a few weeks, that's going on the fs thread since newegg denied me a refund and I had already purchased a 3rd Zotac then. You interested let me know.


----------



## alancsalt

Still need more parts and a better camera... The water blocks are operational, but I really need the "EK-FC Link R48X0/58X0" to make an SLI connection with a couple of EK-FC Bridges. (Like Wermad, but to suit 460 non-ref)

Backplates just became available too. Might as well get a couple.

Yeah, I know the "loop" between cards looks odd - just pretend it's steampunk?

Will fix that as soon as funds become available.....

My Laing DDC 18W pumps - One runs 140 to 180 rpm faster than the other, always. Is that a worry?


----------



## koven

thanks for all those who helped w/ my questions, it's my first loop ever and i'm so surprised/glad i had no leaks... tested it for 3-4 hours and it seemed pretty solid so got impatient and threw everything in there, lol

i think i could have done the TIM better, but good enough for now.. and i'll be adding a 570 block in the future


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## PeL4

Hi, here's mine.


----------



## MisterClean

Spent all night putting it together, and it's no really complete. Still waiting on getting my second GTX470 from RMA, then I'll build the final loop. This was more of a test run. Sorry the pic is ugly, but that's what you get at 6:30am and no sleep







I'll post better pics once everything is finalized and my PSU is sleeved.


----------



## Bastyn99

Hi guys, haef teh questions, everyone says not to use dyed liquid in your loop because it will clog up your system, but will that happen even if I use something like Feser One pre-mixed cooling fluid ? the reason I ask, is that the only kind of 7/16'' ID tubing available here in Denmark (atleast the only Ive been able to find, if anyone knows of some good place to buy please do tell!) is either clear or black and I dont like any of those colors, but alteast with some dyed fluid the clear ones would look okey.


----------



## Desert Rat

I just finished my rig. Still got to work on a couple things but Im very pleased with my results. Load temps drop 10-12c and the fans are running at 7v


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11770014*


Glad to see the pump and res finally mated. very nice build


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desert Rat;11773403*
> I just finished my rig. Still got to work on a couple things but Im very pleased with my results. Load temps drop 10-12c and the fans are running at 7v


Ahhh I love the Mountain Mods case!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desert Rat;11773403*
> I just finished my rig. Still got to work on a couple things but Im very pleased with my results. Load temps drop 10-12c and the fans are running at 7v


looks good, time to join the Mountain mods club!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe;11774020*
> Ahhh I love the Mountain Mods case!


Yes, they are indeed special.


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11773979*
> Glad to see the pump and res finally mated. very nice build


thanks









i actually made a mistake and ordered the wrong finish for the last 2 fittings ( true silver vs shiny silver, had no idea.. thought silver would be silver lol














)

you can kind of tell in the pic, the "true silver" is from jab tech, the "shiny silver" is from performances pcs.. both bitspower.. it's a bit off but oh well


----------



## kevink82

Here is mine








Specs in sig any comments r welcome of course


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;11777220*
> Here is mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs in sig any comments r welcome of course


That looks awesome, v nice build


----------



## Cole19

Some teaser shots.... Will be posting a full build log later this week when I have more goodies in...


















By col19









By col19









By col19


----------



## Schaden

@ ^ man those are some hi res images :S


----------



## Cole19

Took them on my phone. =/


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevink82*


Here is mine








Specs in sig any comments r welcome of course


S..... secks.....
So good.....
Love it man, awesome


----------



## masonkian




----------



## k33stone

first wc build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## [CyGnus]

masonkian congratZ lokks nice and clean







i have a few updates in my rig 2 92mm fans on the VRM's and Chockes of the VGA's (managed more 25MHz core with the same voltage)


----------



## thrasherht

I just finished installing my cooling system in my NZXT Phantom last night, it was a bit of a hassle getting the 360mm Rad in the top of the case. but it was totally worth it to not have a rad outside.








The rad misses my Ram by less then a few mm.








I had to drill a few holes to give the rad better support towards the front, they are under the front panel stuff and the fan controller.









I went with blue tubing even though it can't be seen with the side panel on, i might put a window in the case some time.









YES, I know, I need to finish up the cable management, and I also want to get some angled fitting too.

What are some good brands for angled 1/2in barbs?


----------



## Zamoldac

Quick question guys, I'm going to clean my loop tomorrow and switch from Feser1 to distilled but for now I have no biocide, will it count if I'll add it later and just run the loop using distilled only ?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*


Quick question guys, I'm going to clean my loop tomorrow and switch from Feser1 to distilled but for now I have no biocide, will it count if I'll add it later and just run the loop using distilled only ?


Yeah, that'll be fine.

You can run your loop for months without biocide, but I would add some eventually.


----------



## Zamoldac

Thx for the quick response bro!
+Rep.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## rzs77

hey guys, it's been a while. i have a question, how do u guys feel about watercooling your rams? is it worth the price? I'm currently using crucial ballistix tracer with red bling and i kinda like how it looks but i wouldn't mind having everything watercooled as well. please comment and advice. here's a pic of my latest rig:










PS: am also thinking of adding a swiftech 240 rad up top. anybody with experience ever done it before? would it fit? please advice.


----------



## koven

^ nice loop man, how's the 965 OC?


----------



## rzs77

Thanks bro. I'm kinda disappointed with my chip. I've seen people getting 4GHz with 1.4v but mine would require 1.5V to go 4068MHz. Thank god for watercooling.

Or maybe I'm doing something wrong? I've tried for weeks now trying to get 4GHz stable. and 4068MHz is the best i can get stable with 7 hours of prime95.

If u have suggestions, pls pm me


----------



## kingofyo1

rzs, make sure to lower your nb and ram speeds when overclocking, that way you get more headroom. My northbridge had to be downclocked from 3ghz, to 2.6 and my ram went from 1333 down to 800 but that let me tighten my timings a bit


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## sndstream

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rzs77*


hey guys, it's been a while. i have a question, how do u guys feel about watercooling your rams? is it worth the price? I'm currently using crucial ballistix tracer with red bling and i kinda like how it looks but i wouldn't mind having everything watercooled as well. please comment and advice. here's a pic of my latest rig:











I like your loop as it looks really clean but I'm always for watercooling everything. Monetarily, it's probably not worth it but visually it's a whole different story. I bought the MIPS block and I love it. Whether it really does anything for me OC wise well..................but hey it looks cool









I'm using the same board as you so heres what mine's like. Always in a state of work....


----------



## PeL4

i also bought the full cover waterblock for the crosshair4. It's not much difference in OC but visually it's great.


----------



## PrimeSLP

my first WC loop


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mtbiker033

what would be good 140mm fans to pair up with the Black Ice GT Stealth 280 rad?

I pick this rad as it's slim and will fit in the top of my case btw.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rzs77;11790144*
> Thanks bro. I'm kinda disappointed with my chip. I've seen people getting 4GHz with 1.4v but mine would require 1.5V to go 4068MHz. Thank god for watercooling.
> 
> Or maybe I'm doing something wrong? I've tried for weeks now trying to get 4GHz stable. and 4068MHz is the best i can get stable with 7 hours of prime95.
> 
> If u have suggestions, pls pm me


MY last build, my 955be c3 hit 4.0 w/ only 1.385, using the CHIV Formula.


----------



## ecaftermath

i got water all over on the bottom of the case and maybe on the mobo..

how long should i wait until i use the comp to make sure everything is dried?

i'll probably let it dry until tomorrow and blow dry it just in case?


----------



## Oli4v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ecaftermath;11795505*
> i got water all over on the bottom of the case and maybe on the mobo..
> 
> how long should i wait until i use the comp to make sure everything is dried?
> 
> i'll probably let it dry until tomorrow and blow dry it just in case?


Dip everything as good as possible up and have some help of a hairdryer

If you let it dry up, the water will get in the mobo and than there's more chance to get a broken mobo


----------



## DevilGear44

Used some Christmas dough to finally get around to ordering about $700 worth of awesomeness, including a Thermochill 140.3 rad plus shrouds and Yates to go with it, an EK acetal+nickel block with backplate for my GTX 480, and loads of case mod odds and ends. Can't wait!


----------



## J_R_X

Hello my fellow water coolers.
Can you kindly add my first water cooled build?
*List of parts:*

CORSAIR OBSIDIAN 700D CC700D
Corsair HX 850w Sli Modular Power Supply
MSI 790FX-GD70 Motherboard
Ati Radeon XFX HD 5970 Black Edition 2Gb, 4GHz GDDR5
120GB Vertex2-E OCZSSD2-2VTXE120G VTX2E
Corsair Dominator DDR3 8Gb (2x4GB) PC3-12800(1600)
AMD - Phenom II x4 965 3.4 GHz Black Edition 125W
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Music
DVD R-DL RW Lightscribe
2x Samsung F3 Spinpoint HD103SJ SATA Hard Disk 1TB
LAMPTRON Fan Controller FC6 20W Per Channel Black Anodized

3x Black Right angle SATA cables 50cm
Akasa SATA3 6Gb/s Right Angled Cable Black 50cm
NZXT CB-24P 24Pin Black Braid Motherboard Power extension Cable 250mm
NZXT CB-8P 8 Pin Black pre-Braid Mother Board extension 250mm

Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ 5970 - Water Block
EK-Supreme HF Full Copper Universal CPU Block AMD,Intel
Laing D5 Vario Pump 12v (MCP655) 1/2" ID for Watercooling
EK-D5 X-TOP - Acetal G1/4 Rev.2
ThermoChill PA120.3 - 360 Radiator
3x Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000RPM 120 X 38mm Cooling Fan
XSPC Single 5.25" Bay Reservoir (Alu Front)
2m XSPC 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD XSPC White Hose
2x Bitspower BP-MBWP-C06 1/4" BSPP Blank Fitting - Matte Black
8x Scan 1/4" BSPP - 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - High Flow
2x 3/8 BSP Compression Fitting 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J_R_X;11796514*
> Hello my fellow water coolers.
> Can you kindly add my first water cooled build?
> *List of parts:*
> 
> CORSAIR OBSIDIAN 700D CC700D
> Corsair HX 850w Sli Modular Power Supply
> MSI 790FX-GD70 Motherboard
> Ati Radeon XFX HD 5970 Black Edition 2Gb, 4GHz GDDR5
> 120GB Vertex2-E OCZSSD2-2VTXE120G VTX2E
> Corsair Dominator DDR3 8Gb (2x4GB) PC3-12800(1600)
> AMD - Phenom II x4 965 3.4 GHz Black Edition 125W
> Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Music
> DVD R-DL RW Lightscribe
> 2x Samsung F3 Spinpoint HD103SJ SATA Hard Disk 1TB
> LAMPTRON Fan Controller FC6 20W Per Channel Black Anodized
> 
> 3x Black Right angle SATA cables 50cm
> Akasa SATA3 6Gb/s Right Angled Cable Black 50cm
> NZXT CB-24P 24Pin Black Braid Motherboard Power extension Cable 250mm
> NZXT CB-8P 8 Pin Black pre-Braid Mother Board extension 250mm
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ 5970 - Water Block
> EK-Supreme HF Full Copper Universal CPU Block AMD,Intel
> Laing D5 Vario Pump 12v (MCP655) 1/2" ID for Watercooling
> EK-D5 X-TOP - Acetal G1/4 Rev.2
> ThermoChill PA120.3 - 360 Radiator
> 3x Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000RPM 120 X 38mm Cooling Fan
> XSPC Single 5.25" Bay Reservoir (Alu Front)
> 2m XSPC 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD XSPC White Hose
> 2x Bitspower BP-MBWP-C06 1/4" BSPP Blank Fitting - Matte Black
> 8x Scan 1/4" BSPP - 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - High Flow
> 2x 3/8 BSP Compression Fitting 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD


That is a nice rig you got there man.
Makes me want the 700D even more..but I want to upgrade my monitor first.. haha.
Good job guys keep them coming.
v1ral


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey, don't quote so many pics at once


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J_R_X;11796514*
> Hello my fellow water coolers.


Very nice, white tube inside the 800/700D is purrrrteeeeeeeee. I'm itching to the get the Supreme HF Full Nickel


----------



## Haze_hellivo

you wont see very good results from watercooling the ram, a fan works just as good.

i have a hd 4890 with an ek-fc plexi copper block are you interested?


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;11797210*
> you wont see very good results from watercooling the ram, a fan works just as good.


your right. but it looks cool. thats why i would do it at least..


----------



## SwishaMane

Lovin the block. Whats up with this white toob revolution?


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11796692*
> hey, don't quote so many pics at once


hehe.. Sorry but they're are all great.. haha...
v1ral


----------



## [email protected]

I already posted in this thread awhile ago, but I got some new stuff in.

Edit: this isn't my current sig-rig.


----------



## JE Nightmare

that's a lot of tubing.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Needs more black


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36;11797258*
> your right. but it looks cool. *that's why i would do it at least..*


this!!


----------



## thrasherht

Finish getting my Phantom all setup, and found an old LED light that I was able to use for ascetics.








I am planning on getting a few 4 inch UV cold cathodes to make the tubes glow.


----------



## Balsagna

Here's mine.

Specs are in my sig - except the cooler. I no longer use the Corsair H50. Will be selling it for >$50 & pay for half the shipping once I reach my 35 +REP

Anywho. here you go!














EDIT: Sorry for the bad pics. Used my phone...

Also, I'm still trying to get rid of the bubbles out of the res.


----------



## Balsagna

Hmm, they aren't showing up...


----------



## thrasherht

try uploading them somewhere else.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna;11798990*
> Hmm, they aren't showing up...


You're trying to embed web pages as images. Use direct image links to embed.


----------



## Balsagna

Odd. Those were links tot he images I thought... oh well, I'll fix it in just a sec lol.

EDIT; Fixed. Check the previous page to see them all


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## morencyam

after hours and hours of reading and research, i am finally ready to start my first wc loop to cool my sig rig. first step, making the purchase. since this is my first time, i'd like to have a seasoned veteran look over my cart to make sure i'm not missing anything.

i already have two of the gelid fans, that's why there are only two in the cart


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;11800001*
> after hours and hours of reading and research, i am finally ready to start my first wc loop to cool my sig rig. first step, making the purchase. since this is my first time, i'd like to have a seasoned veteran look over my cart to make sure i'm not missing anything.
> 
> i already have two of the gelid fans, that's why there are only two in the cart


every thign looks good. but your going to want to make sure your fittings ate 1/2in ID 3/4 OD. the ones you have now are 1/4 id 1/2 OD. and those simply wont work

edit: im an idiot. was reading it wrong.... your fine ignore this post.... im going to bed now...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36;11800219*
> edit: im an idiot. was reading it wrong.... your fine ignore this post.... im going to bed now...


lol it happens to the best of us. thank you eye as well


----------



## h4xin




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

h4xin - what is the point of single sleeveing cables if you are not going to spend the same effort on the case?  you need to get your dremel out and some paint ;-)


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11804554*
> updated
> 
> h4xin - what is the point of single sleeveing cables if you are not going to spend the same effort on the case?  you need to get your dremel out and some paint ;-)


What he said. Sleeving looks good now rip it apart and paint it. Think about holes that need to cut, as soon as you hit it with a cutting device you will instantly become a true modder!


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Intel I5 760 4ghz
Asus P7P55D-E
GSKILL DDR3 F3 12800 9-9-9-24
SAPPHIRE HD4890 1GB
EUROTECH 900W MODULAR
OCZ VERTEX TURBO 60GB
HITACHI 500GB 7200RPM
SAMSUNG 500GB 7200RPM
LG SUPERMULTI DVDRW
NZXT SENTRY 2
COOLER MASTER ATCS 840 with window mod

EK SUPREME HF
TYGON R-3603
ALPHACOOL 600 STATION
6 1/2 FESER silver COMPRESSION FITTINGS
THERMOCHILL PA 120.3
THERMOCHIL EC6 RED COOLANT
FILTER with rotor
4 NOCTUA NF-P12.1300
NOISEBLOCKER Multiframe M12-S2
Cooler Master 200mm
TITAN NANO Thermal paste


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h4xin;11801553*


Nice. Why dont you move the one CPU tube over, so the one going down to GPU bock is shorter and more accessible? The input should be on the right barb, and the exit to the GPU should be on the left from my perspective. Not dissin, just wondering


----------



## loki_reborn

I should finally be joining this club in a fortnight. Cant wait for all my pieces to arrive.

Will be my sig rig, with-

EK HF Nickel Block
EK FC5870 Nickel
EK M4N Mosfet Block
EK NB/SB 2 Block for NB and SB
RX360 Rad
MCP355 18W Pump with Acetal XSPC top.

All crammed into my little case for now. Later on I will be getting either an 800D or a TJ07 and adding some more radiators. The RX360 should handle everything fine for now though.


----------



## Zamoldac

Just switched from Feser1 to distilled (cleaned every little thing) temps dropped by ~4C (both idle and load temps, same ambient) max load temp is now 35C







, almost finished the cable management then I'm set









Low res pics... because that's how I roll







.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Morizuno

Hey guys, I'm leak testing atm and when I turned on the pump, it made like this loud noise almost like a blender. Should I be worried? I'm using the XSPC pump/res that comes with the rasa kit. I'm filling up the res, turning on the pump for a second, and then filling the res some more


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11805451*
> Hey guys, I'm leak testing atm and when I turned on the pump, it made like this loud noise almost like a blender. Should I be worried? I'm using the XSPC pump/res that comes with the rasa kit. I'm filling up the res, turning on the pump for a second, and then filling the res some more


means there is air in the pump still, try to get water inside the pump. you may bee to back fill it from the outlet.


----------



## ecaftermath

Man! the 45 degree compression fitting keeps leaking when i try to bend it a bit, but if i leave it alone it's fine. should i leave it like this?


----------



## AdvanSuper

No replace it ASAP.

Spend $10 now or $XXX later when it leaks all over the hardware?


----------



## lollingtonbear

Hi everybody
Here is what my wc computer used to look like;









here it is with the cpu and gpu block installed but no tubing









tubing connected and leak testing









luckily no leaks









completed system

















parts used: xspc dual 750
xspc Delta CPU block
ek gtx275 block
xpsc RS240
phobya/bitspower fittings & purple tubing

hope you enjoyed it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

lollingtonbear - that is pretty clean looking considering you have not done any modding for cable managment, good job


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lollingtonbear;11805990*
> *snip*
> parts used: xspc dual 750
> xspc Delta CPU block
> ek gtx275 block
> xpsc RS240
> phobya/bitspower fittings & purple tubing
> 
> hope you enjoyed it


How are your temps with the GTX200 and the cpu on the one rad? I've been wondering if I could run gpu and cpu on my 240 rad.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Updated build. 400mm Helix res just got here today. Waiting on mips ramcooler 6 that's apparently stuck in newark due to the snow. Sorry about the poor lighting, my point and shoot isn't that good.


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11808020*
> Updated build. 400mm Helix res just got here today. Waiting on mips ramcooler 6 that's apparently stuck in newark due to the snow.


That Res man, it's beautiful! Also it seems to be bigger than the helix res I've seen from frozen Q in the shops! Special made?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunnyville;11808072*
> That Res man, it's beautiful! Also it seems to be bigger than the helix res I've seen from frozen Q in the shops! Special made?


Thanks man, I love the res. Almost completes the system. I had him make it to order. It was totally worth the month and a half wait for it.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11808020*
> Updated build. 400mm Helix res just got here today. Waiting on mips ramcooler 6 that's apparently stuck in newark due to the snow. Sorry about the poor lighting, my point and shoot isn't that good.


Update looks really good. That's a nice looking rig you have there.


----------



## koven

wow that res is huge, looks nice man


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11808187*
> Update looks really good. That's a nice looking rig you have there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11808208*
> wow that res is huge, looks nice man


Thanks a ton guys. It's a continual work in progress. btw, Fannblade could you stop folding for a bit so I could pass you again


----------



## repo_man

What are you all's favorite e-shops to order from? I'd like to browse around and window shop but I'm not sure where to start, lol.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man;11808252*
> What are you all's favorite e-shops to order from? I'd like to browse around and window shop but I'm not sure where to start, lol.


definitely performance-pcs. Huge selection and decent prices. No one seems to beat SVC on most things, but the selection is limited. I only use frozencpu as a last resort since it's always more expensive, especially the shipping.


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11808272*
> definitely performance-pcs. Huge selection and decent prices. No one seems to beat SVC on most things, but the selection is limited. I only use frozencpu as a last resort since it's always more expensive, especially the shipping.


Yea I recently read a thread about FrozenCPU that was less than complementing, lol. What is SVC? Thanks mate, +1

Edit: Also, help my appraisal thread oh mighty water guys? http://www.overclock.net/appraisals/900464-apogee-gt-waterblock.html


----------



## koven

imo:

performance pcs & sidewindercomputers - great prices/selection ratio
svc.com - great prices, best customer service, but not a big selection
frozencpu.com - best selection but prices are relatively high

svc is always my first choice.. if they dont have it, i go to performance pcs, if that fails too (rare), i resort to frozencpu


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11808314*
> imo:
> 
> performance pcs & sidewindercomputers - great prices/selection ratio
> svc.com - great prices, best customer service, but not a big selection
> frozencpu.com - best selection but prices are relatively high
> 
> svc is always my first choice.. if they dont have it, i go to performance pcs, if that fails too (rare), i resort to frozencpu


Oh ok, svc.com. Never heard of them but they do have some great prices I see. Thanks! +1 for you as well sir!


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11808246*
> T btw, Fannblade could you stop folding for a bit so I could pass you again


LOL you said you were going to back off a little now I see why.

I have a feeling once you kick on all that horse power I will just watch you go by. So kick'er on and lets get that 2 mil.

Race to the 2 million mark. Winner gets..........nothing but a


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## hy897t

No one mentioned http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
I love this place. Here first then Performance-pcs then if I have to frozencpu


----------



## lollingtonbear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11806580*
> updated
> 
> lollingtonbear - that is pretty clean looking considering you have not done any modding for cable managment, good job


Thanks, what would you recommend for cable managment mods?, i used to have the going behind the tray but the molex wouldnt reach the top bays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man;11806665*
> How are your temps with the GTX200 and the cpu on the one rad? I've been wondering if I could run gpu and cpu on my 240 rad.


cpu is unlocked so hwmonitor gives a reading of 0C, but its about 30C load
gpu idle is 30C and 42-46C load at stock clocks

ambient temp is 20C


----------



## AdvanSuper

weerrrrrrmmmaaaaaaaaaaaadddddddd

What are you using to stress test your 470's?


----------



## wermad

what is up w/ Jab-tech and Sidewindercomputers??? they've been out of stock for several things, frustratingly, these are the parts Im needing to complete my build









I might just give in and buy it from ppcs since they have everthing Im looking for and spend a about $20-30 more














.

edit: Vantage, heaven, furmark, crysis benchmarks.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Why me??????????? The MCP 355 pump I got is doing the same thing as my 350 that I replaced a few weeks ago. There is no way I screwed the pump top on too tight either because I left it decently loose to begin with and was worried about a leak, but it did not leak. Is my EK pump top destroying my pumps? It stutters to start up and it was first started with water in the loop and a lot of water because it was pulling from a full reservoir.


----------



## wermad

you running the pump on a controller? try a different power connector/molex


----------



## AdvanSuper

No controller it's plugged into a molex cable coming right from the PSU. I also tried the same on the previous one and it did the same thing still. I can't be killing these pumps it just makes no sense. Maybe it has something to do with being on the bottom of my case? Could the metal case be interfering with the magnet in the pump? That is just an assumption by the way.


----------



## RushMore1205

MAJOR UPGRADE COMING IN THE NEXT 4 DAYS GUYS, BUT HERE IS A SNEAK PEAK AND WHAT I CURRENTLY HAVE


----------



## eclipseaudio4

RushMore1205 looks nice!

Ok I decided I needed to do some color matching so I grabed a can of this.








I have done my optical, HD,(racks) and Rad mounting plate, as well as 2 fans so far.
I just did up my EK 5870 nickle backplate and the photos dont do it justice.

















I am thinking about doing my 5870 block as well, but am not sure yet. After it is all done I will post up a full photo


----------



## AdvanSuper

I want 470 WB's.....


----------



## FannBlade

Ahh sexy shiny new parts!


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11810645*
> I want 470 WB's.....


me too..... the tubing run would be CAKE too in my rig....









(admittedly a crappy picture







)

i would need another 120mm radiator up to or on the back to keep temps reasonable. but even then the run would be easy...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36;11810748*
> me too..... the tubing run would be CAKE too in my rig....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (admittedly a crappy picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> i would need another 120mm radiator up to or on the back to keep temps reasonable. but even then the run would be easy...


Do it! You will love not having those fans when gaming. That EK 120 mounts up real nice from the pics I have seen, or you could got for a RX120 with some more modding







Oh just had an idea, don't know if it would work. Mount the 120 flat on the bottom and make a platform for the pump above that.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

uupdated


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11810376*
> No controller it's plugged into a molex cable coming right from the PSU. I also tried the same on the previous one and it did the same thing still. I can't be killing these pumps it just makes no sense. Maybe it has something to do with being on the bottom of my case? Could the metal case be interfering with the magnet in the pump? That is just an assumption by the way.


Can't be that, I have my pump on the bottom of my case with no ill effects.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man;11812836*
> Can't be that, I have my pump on the bottom of my case with no ill effects.


Yeah it was just a thought though. I just don't know why this keeps happening.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11810645*
> I want 470 WB's.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11811087*
> Do it! You will love not having those fans when gaming. That EK 120 mounts up real nice from the pics I have seen, or you could got for a RX120 with some more modding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh just had an idea, don't know if it would work. Mount the 120 flat on the bottom and make a platform for the pump above that.


Do it!


----------



## AdvanSuper

There is a guy on [H] selling his 470's with EK blocks for a good price, but it's more than what I want to spend right now and my current card wouldn't go under until I got funds for a WB, rad and EK SLI bridge.


----------



## AdvanSuper

How much rad do I need for 2 470's? Trying to price things out if I decide to buy that 470 with WB.


----------



## MisterClean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11813078*
> There is a guy on [H] selling his 470's with EK blocks for a good price, but it's more than what I want to spend right now and my current card wouldn't go under until I got funds for a WB, rad and EK SLI bridge.


ddddooooooo eeeeeetttttttt

really, it's a pretty decent price. I picked up my cards for 200 apiece, and adding in 100 dollars for each waterblock, and 30 for each backplate, PLUS shipping, and waiting, and then not even knowing if the cards will work when they get here. LOL his price seems more than fair.

Right now I've got one 470 and a q6600 on a mcr320 and it's working wonderfully, of course my fans are very high RPM. Hopefully I'll have my second gtx470 back from RMA soon, and I'll be able to tell you how it handles it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11814330*
> How much rad do I need for 2 470's? Trying to price things out if I decide to buy that 470 with WB.


Im running an RX360 for my entire build


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterClean;11814391*
> ddddooooooo eeeeeetttttttt
> 
> really, it's a pretty decent price. I picked up my cards for 200 apiece, and adding in 100 dollars for each waterblock, and 30 for each backplate, PLUS shipping, and waiting, and then not even knowing if the cards will work when they get here. LOL his price seems more than fair.
> 
> Right now I've got one 470 and a q6600 on a mcr320 and it's working wonderfully, of course my fans are very high RPM. Hopefully I'll have my second gtx470 back from RMA soon, and I'll be able to tell you how it handles it.


I know his price is more than fair, but it's more than I can afford/want to spend right now. As per PPC's I'm looking at $214 before tax and shipping for a rad, block, ek bridge and ek geforce links to get them under water.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11814410*
> Im running an RX360 for my entire build


I already have a 240mm for the CPU and was thinking about just adding another for the GPU's unless I replace the whole thing with a 360??? I wouldn't even know where to put the 2nd rad and I don't feel like chopping up the case.


----------



## MisterClean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11814452*
> I already have a 240mm for the CPU and was thinking about just adding another for the GPU's unless I replace the whole thing with a 360??? I wouldn't even know where to put the 2nd rad and I don't feel like chopping up the case.


Won't a 360 fit at the top of that case? I would say that's your best bet.


----------



## AdvanSuper

It will fit, but would need to be the same thickness as my current rad so I can fit my UK's. So my next question would be, how efficient would a black ice xtreme III be with a cpu and 2 gpu's? Or any other rads that are 40mm thick?


----------



## wermad

the RX360 w/ push/pull (25mmx2=50mm + RX360 58 = ~109mm) fans will barely clear, someone did it on their 800D and had about 5mm clearance. Its tight squeeze but you'll make it. Or go w/ the pull fans on top and add a Koolance fan shroud such as in my build


































***Kevin, please don't update this post, its just for reference purposes


----------



## AdvanSuper

UPDATED!

My UK's are just push and I'm not really interested in doing push/pull at this time or ever lol. They handle just the CPU fine and I'm sure with the GPU's it wouldn't be an issue. I also don't see myself modding the case lol.

Anywaayyy I sent the guy an offer. We'll see what happens in the morning.

Let's say I ditch the EK Bridge idea, what's the easiest way to connect the blocks without tubing or should I just get 2 compression fittings for them to make life easy?


----------



## wermad

sli fittings:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_766
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_342&products_id=24980
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_203_472


----------



## bundymania

I´ve got 2 new Res. from Phobya to show:
































































comes without Led, but many G 1/4" Threads


----------



## SwishaMane

The more threads, the more plugs, the more chance to leak...

I like the thicker one, actually big enough to hold water.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Got some stuff in the mail the morning and couldn't wait to install. Here she is updated with a MIPS Ramcooler 6 and 2 sets of Koolance quick disconnects.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

very very nice stallion!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11804673*
> What he said. Sleeving looks good now rip it apart and paint it. Think about holes that need to cut, as soon as you hit it with a cutting device you will instantly become a true modder!


Does a drill count? I had to drill holes in my Phantom to fit a 360 rad in it.


----------



## eloverton2

bullets:

+what size screws are used to mount a backplate to a waterblock?

+can i use the waterblock without a backplate?

cool story, bro part: i bought a 5970 with a swiftech epsilon gpu block for cheap and the reseller only included two screws to mount the backplate. i've emailed swiftech and posted on their forums but received no response. i'd like to try the card out to make sure it works, but am not sure about the backplate situation. thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11819619*
> Got some stuff in the mail the morning and couldn't wait to install. Here she is updated with a MIPS Ramcooler 6 and 2 sets of Koolance quick disconnects.


I <3 your res, totally jealous


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11821491*
> I <3 your res, totally jealous


same.. i might have to upgrade mine in the future lol

does it come in white?


----------



## thrasherht

You guys are all super smart. What are some good 45 degree fitting for a good price, i want to swap out some of my fittings because they are using too much tubing.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11821491*
> I <3 your res, totally jealous


I love the res so far too, totally worth the month and a half wait, but had an incident this morning with it when tearing down the loop. I forgot I had two reses hooked up and that the helix res's waterline was higher than my gpus so when I unhooked the line water started spraying up in the air like old faithful. Made for an "exciting" tear down. Thank god my psu is on the other side of the mobo tray otherwise it would have been soaked. I swear it sprayed at least 10 inches higher than my gpus.


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11821540*
> You guys are all super smart. What are some good 45 degree fitting for a good price, i want to swap out some of my fittings because they are using too much tubing.


http://www.svc.com/fit-bp-45r.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11821560*
> I love the res so far too, totally worth the month and a half wait, but had an incident this morning with it when tearing down the loop. I forgot I had two reses hooked up and that the helix res's waterline was higher than my gpus so when I unhooked the line water started spraying up in the air like old faithful. Made for an "exciting" tear down. Thank god my psu is on the other side of the mobo tray otherwise it would have been soaked. I swear it sprayed at least 10 inches higher than my gpus.


leaks are scary, scary stuff. glad everything is cool


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11821560*
> I love the res so far too, totally worth the month and a half wait, but had an incident this morning with it when tearing down the loop. I forgot I had two reses hooked up and that the helix res's waterline was higher than my gpus so when I unhooked the line water started spraying up in the air like old faithful. Made for an "exciting" tear down. Thank god my psu is on the other side of the mobo tray otherwise it would have been soaked. I swear it sprayed at least 10 inches higher than my gpus.


after seeing your res, i just placed an order for a 250mm in white (he emailed me back surprisingly quick saying he can do it)

picked up a replacement cap w/ side ports too

CANT WAIT!


----------



## repo_man

Anyone have a universal GPU block they'd be willing to trade for an apogee GT?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i redid all my wires to make them as clean as i could.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11823926*
> i redid all my wires to make them as clean as i could.
> 
> [IM]http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4388/case1w.jpg[/IMG]


Not bad man, you really don't have that many to hide anyway it seems! Though I think zip ties would look better than the electrical tape.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Not electric tape its velcro was already on my case when i got it so i used to to hold wires in place. Lol you even seen how bad it was you see how much cleaner i made it

Befor









Now


----------



## repo_man

^^^Ahhhh, it _is_ velcro. I see it now, lol. Wow, yea, definitely an improvement man. +1


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I am thinking of maybe turning that fan in front around so wires are at the top so it can be routed with all the rest.


----------



## Morizuno

just bought this:

http://www.overclock.co.uk/product/Black-Ice-GT-Stealth-140-Radiator,-Single-140mm_8566.html

to replace my EK 140mm which leaked

what fans are good for this rad?


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11824679*
> just bought this:
> 
> http://www.overclock.co.uk/product/Black-Ice-GT-Stealth-140-Radiator,-Single-140mm_8566.html
> 
> to replace my EK 140mm which leaked
> 
> what fans are good for this rad?


high speed deltas haha


----------



## Morizuno

lol seriously


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11824795*
> lol seriously


Deltas.....or panflos although an r4 should work good for it.


----------



## Morizuno

Something less loud, lol. And possibly available on newegg


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11824898*
> Something less loud, lol. And possibly available on newegg


Cooler Master R4s


----------



## Morizuno

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103078

These?

I'm going to reuse my single shark fan

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129057

in combination with this, thanks


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11824926*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103078
> 
> These?
> 
> I'm going to reuse my single shark fan
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129057
> 
> in combination with this, thanks


whoops forgot it was a 140. 120s have better pressure but if you are running push/pull id go with the second one


----------



## Morizuno

yeah, 140mm is the type of fan supported in my case. I guess another shark then. I'll be testing with a single first to see if I even need another one


----------



## SimpleTech

Having fun with LEDs.


----------



## ecaftermath

Finished redoing my loop


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;11825794*
> Having fun with LEDs.


I like the contrast of the lighting there SimpleTech, looks good







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ecaftermath;11833169*
> Finished redoing my loop


A little late for Christmas, but I like it regardless







.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;11833224*
> A little late for Christmas, but I like it regardless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


My thoughts exactly


----------



## A-Dub

Its still a work in progress, but here's my custom built case:
































This side is still a mess:


----------



## dennis_g

nice setup dude.. it's a MM case?


----------



## R00ST3R

@ A-Dub
That looks really nice for what I'm guessing is mostly made out of wood. MDF possibly? Nice clean edges, clean paint job too.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;11833224*
> I like the contrast of the lighting there SimpleTech, looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;11833224*
> A little late for Christmas, but I like it regardless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Technically Christmas lasts 8 days.


----------



## ecaftermath

hm i smell a little burn............now it wont turn on...i'm sure there were no leaks...........


----------



## A-Dub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;11834026*
> @ A-Dub
> That looks really nice for what I'm guessing is mostly made out of wood. MDF possibly? Nice clean edges, clean paint job too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennis_g;11833921*
> nice setup dude.. it's a MM case?


Thanks guys!
The paint job was a bit rushed, with the snow/cold weather coming I wanted to get out of my unheated garage.

Not a MM case, its MDF. I'm seriously considering a Case Labs M8 around tax time though, should have a decent refund coming.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SteveClay




----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteveClay;11834678*


Ummm i don't think this counts as water cooling.
Unless of course you cut it to pieces and do it right.


----------



## nexos

Just finished putting together the last remaining pieces of my loop on my sig rig. Currently leak testing until in the morning. Already found a small leak, but it wasn't a problem; a quick tightening with a wrench solved it. Pictures will go up after I have a chance to get some temps

Hardware: MCP655, MCR220, Apogee XT, MCW80, & micro res


----------



## thrasherht

I never actually did properly leak test my setup. But I did run my loop on my desk without a case for about a month, so i knew all the fittings where good, so I just made sure the tubes were secure and called it a day.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11834748*
> I never actually did properly leak test my setup. But I did run my loop on my desk without a case for about a month, so i knew all the fittings where good, so I just made sure the tubes were secure and called it a day.


No guts no Glory! That's how I test mine.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11835053*
> No guts no Glory! That's how I test mine.


that is exactly what I thought when doing it. If I didn't do it right the first time, I wasn't worthy of a WC loop.
Helps that I bought a kit so it should be pretty straight forward. I have a whole whopping 6 connection points. Nothing spectacular.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11834695*
> Ummm i don't think this counts as water cooling.
> Unless of course you cut it to pieces and do it right.


counts in this thread, read the first post.


----------



## thrasherht

but but but....come on kevin...they have their own fan club.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11835576*
> but but but....come on kevin...they have their own fan club.


hey, when I started this thread it was all I had and it IS water cooling, just very simplified version of it without as much fun customization.


----------



## airplaneman

I never leak test and I've never had a problem. I probably should though.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11835609*
> hey, when I started this thread it was all I had and it IS water cooling, just very simplified version of it without as much fun customization.


Fine I guess.
I probably should keep my mouth shut since my was a kit. but still custom since I still had to put it together.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman;11835647*
> I never leak test and I've never had a problem. I probably should though.


haha, I leak test... never had a loop that DIDN'T leak...

most recent loop i had to take apart 3 times to fix leaks and there is still a micro leak in the tube in the middle of my res that i need to fix... :-/


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11835671*
> haha, I leak test... never had a loop that DIDN'T leak...
> 
> most recent loop i had to take apart 3 times to fix leaks and there is still a micro leak in the tube in the middle of my res that i need to fix... :-/


I think you find leaks to be more common in more complex loops.

from what i have been noticing is the guys who get leaks are the ones who have a lot of stuff in their loop, and the cpu only loops never leak.

that is just what i have noticed.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11835711*
> I think you find leaks to be more common in more complex loops.
> 
> from what i have been noticing is the guys who get leaks are the ones who have a lot of stuff in their loop, and the cpu only loops never leak.
> 
> that is just what i have noticed.


my CPU only loop I had leaked too, and worse, It didn't start leaking until 33 hours after i started leak testing. It is better to be safe and leak test than sorry later.


----------



## tzillian

i leak test, but only for a few hours. never had a leak till this day. hopefully it stays that way.


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11835786*
> my CPU only loop I had leaked too, and worse, It didn't start leaking until 33 hours after i started leak testing. It is better to be safe and leak test than sorry later.


how did you find out?


----------



## thrasherht

I am going to get some of the worm screw clamps for my setup. I think i am going to paint the first to make the look cool.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ecaftermath;11835808*
> how did you find out?


saw water dripping off the res, nothing but the pump was on, so it didn't hurt anything.


----------



## dryg

"Finished" this a couple of hours ago.

XSPC RX360
EK Supreme HF
EK FC480
MCP655










And awsome pump holder.. thing










To do list:
Scythe GTs
Colored tubing
Bayres for a D5
90 and 45 degree fittings
And somehow find a way to stick more rads in


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dryg;11836048*
> "Finished" this a couple of hours ago.
> 
> And awsome pump holder.. thing
> 
> To do list:
> Scythe GTs
> Colored tubing
> Bayres for a D5
> 90 and 45 degree fittings
> And somehow find a way to stick more rads in


where there supposed to be pics in there?


----------



## dryg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11836100*
> where there supposed to be pics in there?


Fixed


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Striker36

i never had a leek in my loop ether. i just put it together, tightened ALL the compression fittings ALL the way down and started her up


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36;11836339*
> i never had a leek in my loop ether. i just put it together, tightened ALL the compression fittings ALL the way down and started her up


I have never had compressions leak, but just about everything else possible...


----------



## Striker36

yea. i figured if they were tightened in to the block/res/pump all the way with the O-ring and stuff seated correctly i could put a pair of pliers on the bases and tighten the tops down with no chance of striping the stuff they are screwed into (i dont trust plastic...) and it all seems to be working out for me


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dryg;11836048*
> "Finished" this a couple of hours ago.
> 
> XSPC RX360
> EK Supreme HF
> EK FC480
> MCP655
> 
> And awsome pump holder.. thing
> 
> To do list:
> Scythe GTs
> Colored tubing
> Bayres for a D5
> 90 and 45 degree fittings
> And somehow find a way to stick more rads in


question time.
what sized tubing is that?
it looks pretty small.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36;11836537*
> yea. i figured if they were tightened in to the block/res/pump all the way with the O-ring and stuff seated correctly i could put a pair of pliers on the bases and tighten the tops down with no chance of striping the stuff they are screwed into (i dont trust plastic...) and it all seems to be working out for me


when i tightened my stuff down, i could tell with a wrench when they were going from just turning, to being tight, I also watched the O-ring get smushed.


----------



## Kolovrat

It's kinda basic mod of H50... on top of PC I made it "TubeTank"








under heavy load never jump over 48C'
first steps and more changes on the way.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11836595*
> when i tightened my stuff down, i could tell with a wrench when they were going from just turning, to being tight, I also watched the O-ring get smushed.


i worked with lots of plastics from Nylon to Acetal to Lexan at my last work. and while i would normaly agree that i was being over worried i have seen stuff that shouldn't have let go let go with almost no pressure at all... usually i got for snug plus a quarter/half turn


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11836726*
> updated


haha, you must be having fun tonight.
I have seen this post at least a few times tonight.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolovrat;11836599*
> It's kinda basic mod of H50... on top of PC I made it "TubeTank"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> under heavy load never jump over 48C'
> first steps and more changes on the way.


why does everybody seem to use dyed coolant for the H50 mods?
I don't understand it.


----------



## dryg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11836577*
> question time.
> what sized tubing is that?
> it looks pretty small.


10mm ID 13mm OD
Great temps though, GPU went from 65C idle to 30


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dryg;11836823*
> 10mm ID 13mm OD
> Great temps though, GPU went from 65C idle to 30


so is that 3/8th tubing? I am a metric ******.


----------



## dryg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11836864*
> so is that 3/8th tubing? I am a metric ******.


Didn't say on the site I got it from, google says (3/8) inches = 9.52500 millimeters


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dryg;11836908*
> Didn't say on the site I got it from, google says (3/8) inches = 9.52500 millimeters


close enough for government work


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Edit


----------



## infinite illusions

I'd love to post pictures of my rig, but I've had some bad luck lately. My R3E board shorted out, took my video card out with it. So...........yeah. I do love seeing all these nice looking rigs though


----------



## Kolovrat

It's not just "dyed coolant" this is Thermaltake "Bigwater" liquid... light antifreeze according to the taste








I use this liquid because it's non-conductive... tested by the accident .... conductivity proof !!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


why does everybody seem to use dyed coolant for the H50 mods? 
I don't understand it.


----------



## Cole19

Here are some more teasers...


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cole19*


Here are some more teasers...


Omg; Guinness...







My favourite beer







.

And that is a sick block, you'll love it! I have the NX-480 on my GTX480 and the temps are insane. Nice dude!


----------



## Cole19

Very excited it all goes in tomorrow. Got a 700D CPU 360- this block. Its gonna be fun.


----------



## Xraven771

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kolovrat*


It's kinda basic mod of H50... on top of PC I made it "TubeTank"








under heavy load never jump over 48C'
first steps and more changes on the way.


Poor Pump


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolovrat;11836599*
> It's kinda basic mod of H50... on top of PC I made it "TubeTank"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> under heavy load never jump over 48C'
> first steps and more changes on the way.


Nothing wrong with a bit of low cost experimentation. Is there any data on what the Corsair pump can or cannot handle? Others have done this without reporting problems.

Willhemmens had a H50 pump fail to start after a res mod. He thought it might have been overloaded, and that got stuck in people's minds, but some time later he tried the pump again and it did run quite happily. PPls either didn't notice or do not remember that.

I think "Go for it." Don't know any pump that is immune to failure anyway.

Just my 2 cents.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11846334*
> Nothing wrong with a bit of low cost experimentation. Is there any data on what the Corsair pump can or cannot handle? Others have done this without reporting problems.
> 
> Willhemmens had a H50 pump fail to start after a res mod. He thought it might have been overloaded, and that got stuck in people's minds, but some time later he tried the pump again and it did run quite happily. PPls either didn't notice or do not remember that.
> 
> I think "Go for it." Don't know any pump that is immune to failure anyway.
> 
> Just my 2 cents.


I've seen H50's run with GPU blocks and extra rads in the same loop before.

Also it wasnt my pump the failed to start, it was Sexy bastards although what really happened was there was a large air buble in the pump which ment no water got pumped, so when he re tried it was fine.

H50's are a great way to start watercooling, I aprove!

I've also never heard of the H50 pump dieing.

On a different note, Lots up upgrades coming, hope everyones prepaired for so more high res images in the next few weeks.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;11846770*
> I've seen H50's run with GPU blocks and extra rads in the same loop before.
> 
> Also it wasnt my pump the failed to start, it was Sexy bastards although what really happened was there was a large air buble in the pump which ment no water got pumped, so when he re tried it was fine.
> 
> H50's are a great way to start watercooling, I aprove!
> 
> I've also never heard of the H50 pump dieing.
> 
> On a different note, Lots up upgrades coming, hope everyones prepaired for so more high res images in the next few weeks.


Ah, Sexy Bastard's pump! I disremembered, but got it now. Fully agree with the "great way to start watercooling" comment.


----------



## Snips

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11847066*
> Ah, Sexy Bastard's pump! I disremembered, but got it now. Fully agree with the "great way to start watercooling" comment.


I remember the time when I thought that "watercooling" meant all-in-one units like H50s


----------



## selfdz87

hi guys...just got my stuff yesterday,only now have a chance to post








will redo my loop later,waiting for GT's and some tubing to arrive...










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jclark

Almost completed my build...

The Ek Supreme Full Copper you see in the pics will be replaced with an Ek Acetal.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## PulkPull

Can I join? Mine is a WIP, but I am nearly done. Click here for my rig build log.

I'll post a preview pic, but I want to wait til I am done to show the full rig. However there are TONS of pics in my build log linked above -


IMG_1120 by ColeKristy, on Flickr


----------



## AdvanSuper

Sigh... My mcp355 refuses to start and I've loosened up the top to prevent startup failure like suggested on xtremesystems and their whole write up about the pump. I tried different molex cables from the PSU as well and still nothing. The pump top wasn't even tightened down nearly as much as the previous one too.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11853256*
> Sigh... My mcp355 refuses to start and I've loosened up the top to prevent startup failure like suggested on xtremesystems and their whole write up about the pump. I tried different molex cables from the PSU as well and still nothing. The pump top wasn't even tightened down nearly as much as the previous one too.


Have you removed the molex plug from the wires at all? Maybe to sleeve it? I made the mistake of putting the 5v line where the 12v line was supposed to go once. It didn't run very well...


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11853256*
> Sigh... My mcp355 refuses to start and I've loosened up the top to prevent startup failure like suggested on xtremesystems and their whole write up about the pump. I tried different molex cables from the PSU as well and still nothing. The pump top wasn't even tightened down nearly as much as the previous one too.


Ok take your pump apart,
Now take a look at the impeller.

Does it look off balance? (tilted to one side more than the other)

Now twist it, recreating the spin motion of the impeller
Does it scratch against the walls of the impeller housing?

If yes, you have a dead pump either from objects in your loop or something was terribly off balance and killed your impeller.

Source: I killed my first pump like this :/ it had rad fragments in the loop


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jclark;11851839*
> Almost completed my build...
> 
> The Ek Supreme Full Copper you see in the pics will be replaced with an Ek Acetal.


have you set up the top rads pulling air into the case or blowing out? I've got the same rad placement with the fans pushing out - not so great as it gets dusty quickly in my case due to negative pressure.


----------



## AdvanSuper

The same thing happened to my 350 nothing was in it and from what I remember it spun fine when it was apart. It hesitates to start but once it's up amd running it will stay on all day with no issues or noises. I think my EK top is killing them. I purposely left this one loose to reduce failure when I installed it like suggested and the same thing happened.


----------



## Striker36

what happens if you put the stock top back on? if its the top you should still be able to run with the stock top


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36;11853834*
> what happens if you put the stock top back on? if its the top you should still be able to run with the stock top


I can't put the stock top on because my tubing is 7/16 ID and the stock top is 3/8 iirc.


----------



## nexos

Here is my submission. I honestly didn't think it would all fit in this NZXT M59.


----------



## shadow19935

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11836864*
> so is that 3/8th tubing? I am a metric ******.


you ment to say you are an imperial ******.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow19935;11855335*
> you ment to say you are an imperial ******.


No, I understand imperial measurements, but I don't understand metric.
So when you say your tubing is 10mm I have no idea.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11854516*
> I can't put the stock top on because my tubing is 7/16 ID and the stock top is 3/8 iirc.


Just try it with use the 7/16 and make it really tight, just to see if the pump works.


----------



## masonkian

just cant beat a custom loop

very nice rigs there guys


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11855360*
> No, I understand imperial measurements, but I don't understand metric.
> So when you say your tubing is 10mm I have no idea.


You are both right/both wrong anyway - it's just matter of perspective


----------



## AdvanSuper

My 350 hesiates at first then starts up right away with the stock top. The 355 is completely dead and won't even spin up at all. I'm going to RMA the 355 and order a 655 like I was going to do before because I don't want a 3rd 3xx failing on me. The wiring was never played with on them and they were never ran dry. I also never had issues before adding a reservoir. It could be the top and couldn't be. My PSU is brand new so I don't think it's getting high or low volts causing them to not start or hesitate.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I know It probably screams user error, but I used my 350 for months prior to adding the res with no issues and the 355 failed a couple of weeks after when I replaced the 350 in my loop that had the new res added. They both failed shortly after being in the loop with the res. The res exhaust goes straight to the intake of the pump.


----------



## Paladin Goo

Dude...if I post pics of my H50 in here, Imma feel like such a douchenozzle.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raven Dizzle*


Dude...if I post pics of my H50 in here, Imma feel like such a douchenozzle.


You should pick up a res, and mod your H50 then you can post in here.


----------



## Paladin Goo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


You should pick up a res, and mod your H50 then you can post in here.










I would, both if I knew how to do it and if I had the balls to do it. Which I don't, lol....not so much not having the balls, its that I don't have the $$$ to replace anything I may or may not fry.


----------



## ErBall

New project, I assume I can join now?


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


New project, I assume I can join now?


Nah, it has to work too


----------



## ErBall

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Nah, it has to work too

















the loop does, just passed 14 hours leak testing.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raven Dizzle*


I would, both if I knew how to do it and if I had the balls to do it. Which I don't, lol....not so much not having the balls, its that I don't have the $$$ to replace anything I may or may not fry.


There is a massive thread on the H50/70 coolers with some mods linked on the first page

Official Corsair H50/H70 Club

Willhemmens guide to replacing hoses and incorporating a reservoir.

(Guide) H50 Replace Tubes and Res Mod.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


the loop does, just passed 14 hours leak testing.


Hiya ErBall. Kevin will probably post an "updated" soon and thereafter any pics posted by u get linked to yr name on the first page....


----------



## AMOCO

here is mine:


----------



## Cole19




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raven Dizzle*


Dude...if I post pics of my H50 in here, Imma feel like such a douchenozzle.


H50/H70 are perfectly acceptable in this thread. ;-)


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


You should pick up a res, and mod your H50 then you can post in here.










H50 doesnt need more than a dual rad mod with nice fans, and you got a decent w/c setup. You need two 3/8" id barbs, some matching tube, and a few mins to tear the old H50 apart. Ive been wanting to do mine just because, but I dont use it anymore.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


here is mine:







[/IMG]


Is that an OCN sticker or etch? Only reason I ask is because some of the light effects coming through it match the custom laser etch I had done for my second w/c'ed bench rig where i had an AMD logo inside of flames, with a tiny OCN logo embeded into the design.


----------



## x Yoko

Sort of outdated. Will post new stuff later this week.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;11862999*
> H50 doesnt need more than a dual rad mod with nice fans, and you got a decent w/c setup. You need two 3/8" id barbs, some matching tube, and a few mins to tear the old H50 apart. Ive been wanting to do mine just because, but I dont use it anymore.
> 
> Is that an OCN sticker or etch? Only reason I ask is because some of the light effects coming through it match the custom laser etch I had done for my second w/c'ed bench rig where i had an AMD logo inside of flames, with a tiny OCN logo embeded into the design.


The H50 uses 1/4in tubing, not 3/8th. Just so you know.
I have my h50 modded, it is pretty simple, just dry setup the tubing, and then pull it from the system to fill it with fluid.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Andreoid

*Anfi-tec waterblocks for the EVGA P55 Classified 200*


----------



## Striker36

i wonder if those blocks on your Classified 200 would work on my FTW 200

i bet they would look sexy...










i dont think they would.... at all


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36;11865762*
> i wonder if those blocks on your Classified 200 would work on my FTW 200
> 
> i bet they would look sexy...
> 
> http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/BenPritchard/DSC_0444.jpg
> 
> i dont think they would.... at all


no they wouldn't...
but for the FTW 200, i have made some blocks some time ago
*Anfi-tec waterblocks for the EVGA P55 FTW 200*










*Anfi-tec waterblocks for the EVGA P55 FTW 200*










*Anfi-tec waterblocks for the EVGA P55 FTW 200*










*Anfi-tec waterblocks for the EVGA P55 FTW 200*


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid;11865835*
> no they wouldn't...
> but for the FTW 200, i have made some blocks some time ago
> 
> *Snip*


Do you make any bloscks for the x58 line?
Im looking for a block for my mobo


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKI_VT;11865874*
> Do you make any bloscks for the x58 line?
> Im looking for a block for my mobo


can't list all these here..
Anfi-tec compatibility list


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid;11865997*
> can't list all these here..
> Anfi-tec compatibility list


Ohh that list doesn't have the LE...


----------



## marl

EK has a full cover block for the LE.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marl;11866234*
> EK has a full cover block for the LE.


I Know, but why not help them out while im at it?
Plus i've had a bad time with Ek already don't necessarily want to go there again..


----------



## Striker36

what would i have to do to get a set of those nickle plated? (aside from doing it my self?)


----------



## paradoxum

video of my first loop









[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QW64_J-eFU[/ame]


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Striker36*


what would i have to do to get a set of those nickle plated? (aside from doing it my self?)


it would take a + of minimum 3weeks deliverytime and + costs of about 15€
cause i have to ship the blocks to the nickel guy and he ships they back to me...










*Anfi-tec waterblocks for the EVGA P55 Classified 200*


----------



## Snips

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Andreoid*


it would take a + of minimum 3weeks deliverytime and + costs of about 15â‚¬
cause i have to ship the blocks to the nickel guy and he ships they back to me...










*Anfi-tec waterblocks for the EVGA P55 Classified 200*











I like the colour of that mobo block lol


----------



## Liighthead

just orded a dc 750 kit

now where to mount the 320rad  dont think my vulcan will like it.

unless just get the 240rad kit? same kit but 240 rad instead of 320...

EDIT: or get this kit? http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...oducts_id=3052 :S

loll ima just make a nother thread soz


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

+ pics


----------



## Liighthead

^ *scratches head*

dam lost for words ;D

nice work me likey


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;11874021*
> + pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good job on that "spedo"(i think it needs a friend on this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ),now you need GPU block
> 
> http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g424/coolhandluke41/cimg0419mbig.jpg


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;11874118*
> 
> Good job on that "spedo",now you need GPU block


exept for the gpu block ;D

theirs nothing wrong... its clean looks great lol dam u! xD


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11874115*
> ^ *scratches head*
> 
> dam lost for words ;D
> 
> nice work me likey


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;11874118*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;11874021*
> + pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good job on that "spedo",now you need GPU block
> 
> 
> 
> Nooo!
> 
> GTX 570 on the way!....
Click to expand...


----------



## Liighthead

+ waterblock :$ XD


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

WIP, the link is in my sig, sadly I haven't gotten much interest in the concept or build, hope you all enjoy! As in my sig, there are 2x 320-MCR's one top, one bottom, and a 220-MCR in the bottom too. Pretty sure this is unique to both OCN and the 800D, other than CoolBreeze here on OCN I haven't seen any other bottom radiators in this configuration, I think I'm pretty much the first one to do it? My apologies if I'm not, but I didn't have any outside sources for the build besides the TJ-07 layout, otherwise I would credit!


DSC_4477 by SaltwaterCooled, on Flickr


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11874216*
> + waterblock :$ XD


Yep.

I see there is not backplates for the GTX570 ...


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;11874268*
> Yep.
> 
> I see there is not backplates for the GTX570 ...


custom







ahh well they should bring 1 out sooner or later

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;11874261*
> -snipage


nice.. lotta rads in their lol xD








nice rig


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11874370*
> nice.. lotta rads in their lol xD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice rig


Thanks! Haha no one seems to show much interest in it though....


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;11874401*
> Thanks! Haha no one seems to show much interest in it though....


mmmm i belive mostly cause of rigs like eR_L0k0's that are realllllllllly clean 
and your hardwhare really... but nice job :]
guessing their is a few parts of the rads that dont have a fan?

:]


----------



## IIowa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;11862042*
> the loop does, just passed 14 hours leak testing.


but will it pass the 245 hour leak testing


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11874431*
> mmmm i belive mostly cause of rigs like eR_L0k0's that are realllllllllly clean
> and your hardwhare really... but nice job :]
> guessing their is a few parts of the rads that dont have a fan?
> 
> :]


Nope, all rads have fans on them, I cut a hole in the bottom of the case to pull in cool air and then exhaust out the sides. It's clean in it's final form, that was just taken when I was building and leak testing, there are more shots in my log. The 320 also has grills on each space now too.


----------



## ElectrixPC

this is what it used to look like,









and this is it now (im upgrading to intel in a couple of weeks)









Hope everybody likes it!


----------



## Haze_hellivo

your gpu looks like its bent!


----------



## ElectrixPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;11875279*
> your gpu looks like its bent!


i think its the way the picture's taken..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

getting very close to 600 members here, I will have to extend the spreadsheet...


----------



## JE Nightmare

shoulda broke it into 3x200 member sheets.


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;11874268*
> Yep.
> 
> I see there is not backplates for the GTX570 ...


The 580 backplates fit the 570, only they say 580 on them.


----------



## koven

people have been saying gtx570 backplates in january


----------



## mrshimmy

Well I am not finished with the total build, but water is done...for now









Specs:
Danger Den DD12V-D5 Pump
Black Ice 240GTXtreme Radiator
Swifttech mcw80 x 2 for video cards
Feser 1/2"ID Tubing
Danger Den Fill Port
XSPC Dual Bay Front Reserior
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 Interior Reservoir


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

mcp355 + xspc ddc bay res on their way









btw, I've been noticing quite a few builds w/ zip/cable ties on the tubes w/ acute bends.


----------



## thrasherht

Where is a good place to get 1/4in ID tubing?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11893960*
> Where is a good place to get 1/4in ID tubing?


Any local hardware store.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;11893969*
> Any local hardware store.


I was thinking like primochill tubing. like colored tubing.

Or do they not make 1/4in ID colored tubing.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11893980*
> I was thinking like primochill tubing. like colored tubing.
> 
> Or do they not make 1/4in ID colored tubing.


Sadly they don't.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;11893986*
> Sadly they don't.


Awww.








that makes me sad.
maybe I will have to get some of that plastic dye and make my own colored tubing.


----------



## KShirza1

GTS240 rad mounted and ready for the hydro copper!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11893960*
> Where is a good place to get 1/4in ID tubing?


why would you want it









frozencpu has black and silver: http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s170/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-14_ID_Tubing-Page1.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;11894018*
> GTS240 rad mounted and ready for the hydro copper!


now plumb it up ;-)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11894170*
> why would you want it


I have a modded H50 I need to redo the tubing on. I thought it would be cool to put green tubing on it.

It is the cooler on my backup gaming rig. I also thought about getting some 1/2in to 1/4in adapters and using my extra water pump to boost the flow of the loop.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894187*
> I have a modded H50 I need to redo the tubing on. I thought it would be cool to put green tubing on it.
> 
> It is the cooler on my backup gaming rig. I also thought about getting some 1/2in to 1/4in adapters and using my extra water pump to boost the flow of the loop.


if you have an extra pump just get a new block... sapphire block is only like $40 new...

I have nothing against H50/H70s, but i don't get the point in modding them...


----------



## wermad

an ocn member is selling a used enzo saphire:
http://www.overclock.net/cooling-products/903061-fs-enzotech-sapphire-cpu-block-25-a.html

hit the fs threads, there's is lots of water cooling stuff avail for cheap (most cases







)


----------



## thrasherht

would this be a good tubing?
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=30098

EDIT: stupid copy and paste not working.


----------



## FannBlade

1/16" wall may be very prone to kinks, but if straight runs might work ok.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894316*
> would this be a good tubing?
> http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=30098
> 
> EDIT: stupid copy and paste not working.


I don't think so.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894316*
> would this be a good tubing?
> http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=30098
> 
> EDIT: stupid copy and paste not working.


BWAHAHA, who was the girl? she was cute ;-)

and that tubing has a thin wall, it will kink easy.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11894221*
> if you have an extra pump just get a new block... sapphire block is only like $40 new...
> 
> I have nothing against H50/H70s, but i don't get the point in modding them...


I modded it purely for the joy and entertainment of it.

And it was a way to understand water cooling before actually doing it.
I guess that is a bad excuse. lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894348*
> I modded it purely for the joy and entertainment of it.


word.

btw, you still didn't say who the girl was  (although looking again she is way to young...)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11894380*
> word.
> 
> btw, you still didn't say who the girl was


Wow you guys got that quick, I edited that like 3 seconds after posting and realizing it was the wrong link.

That is my friend kaely. She is one of my Ex's.
Really good friend.

She is 20.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894388*
> Wow you guys got that quick, I edited that like 3 seconds after posting and realizing it was the wrong link.
> 
> That is my friend kaely. She is one of my Ex's.
> Really good friend.


haha, OCN is open in my browser about 90% of the time and I am constantly checking my UserCP for new posts.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11894400*
> haha, OCN is open in my browser about 90% of the time and I am constantly checking my UserCP for new posts.


I see. I have all my posts come into my email. I normally wake up to about 50 emails on my blackberry.

Yea she isn't that young, she is my age. Just turned 20 in decemeber, 9 days after I did.


----------



## FannBlade

Doesn't seem fair we all missed it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894417*
> I see. I have all my posts come into my email. I normally wake up to about 50 emails on my blackberry.
> 
> Yea she isn't that young, she is my age. Just turned 20 in decemeber, 9 days after I did.


oh, word, go you then









she is mad tiny though, not my style


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11894433*
> Doesn't seem fair we all missed it.


LOL, that sucks.

This is why you have your updates emailed, because even edits don't go away with email.


----------



## FannBlade

ahh good point *off to check trash*


----------



## mrshimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11893949*
> mcp355 + xspc ddc bay res on their way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, I've been noticing quite a few builds w/ zip/cable ties on the tubes w/ acute bends.


My feser tubing is doing pretty well with that 180 bend from gpu to gpu, but there was just a very slight restriction, so I threw a zip tie on it to keep it 100 percent flow rate.

I am planning on running two loops at one point and will probably get rid of bends this tight, but it definitely is doing the trick to keep that tube open.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11894444*
> oh, word, go you then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> she is mad tiny though, not my style


Actually she isn't that small. She is like 5' 10", only a few inches shorter then me.
Here I will post a picture of me, her and my other friend, to prevent her own picture being on the internet alone.








There you go guys. She is on the left, and the girl on the right is also an ex. That was like junior year of highschool.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894467*
> Actually she isn't that small. She is like 5' 10", only a few inches shorter then me.
> Here I will post a picture of me, her and my other friend, to prevent her own picture being on the internet alone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There you go guys. She is on the left, and the girl on the right is also an ex. That was like junior year of highschool.


haha, alright, she looks less skinny in that pic.

you in college? looks like a highschool...


----------



## FannBlade

*player*


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11894497*
> haha, alright, she looks less skinny in that pic.
> 
> you in college? looks like a highschool...


Yea, I am a sophmore in college now. But that picture was like junior year, so I was like 17 or so.

more recent picture. Senior Prom. I loved that tux.
Most recent Ex.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11894497*
> haha, alright, she looks less skinny in that pic.
> 
> you in college? looks like a highschool...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894467*
> _*There you go guys. She is on the left, and the girl on the right is also an ex. That was like junior year of highschool.*_


Really kevin?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11894505*
> *player*


Haha, Thanks.

Those were both like, first girlfriends, so they almost don't count.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;11894535*
> Really kevin?


Hey if he wants to talk about skinny, look at the last picture. I am 6 feet tall.
She is about 5' 2". She weighs about 98 pounds.


----------



## wermad

High school memories


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11894558*
> High school memories


Good times. LOL.
I miss highschool at times, only because it was so much easier to slack off compared to college.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

while we are sharing pics, here is my current facebook profile pic:










and a pic of me in highschool with my ex from the time:









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;11894535*
> Really kevin?


hey man, you been paying attention to the amount of post editing that has been going on in the past hour?


----------



## thrasherht

All pictures from now on should be of the computer plus the owners face.


----------



## thrasherht

OoOooOoOhhh, while I am posting pictures of myself for the world to see, I should post this.
Current GF








And to top it all off, the Tshirt she bought me. One of three actually.


----------



## thrasherht

Oh come on, Did I kill the thread?

EDIT: Oh damn. Triple posts. *waits for ban hammer of doom*


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894865*
> EDIT: *Oh damn. Triple posts. *waits for ban hammer of doom**


shhh maybe he won't notice.

edit: oh yea cute Gf

IT WAS HIM!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11894905*
> shhh maybe he won't notice.
> 
> edit: oh yea cute Gf
> 
> IT WAS HIM!


Lol, thanks blade.

She is cute, I love her to death.

But I bet my bank account nobody can guess her age. Lol.
And just incase you are wondering, I am not telling you.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11894964*
> lol, thanks blade.
> 
> She is cute, i love her to death.
> 
> But i bet my bank account nobody can guess her age. Lol.
> And just incase you are wondering, i am not telling you.


13.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;11895243*
> 13.


Ok that is just insulting. come on now.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11895294*
> Ok that is just insulting. come on now.


you're reading the numbers backwards. think your gpu is messing up.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;11895311*
> you're reading the numbers backwards. think your gpu is messing up.


LOL. If she was 31, I might actually be scared, because she would look so young for 31.


----------



## brl3git

Im going to say 17.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11895340*
> LOL. If she was 31, I might actually be scared, because she would look so young for 31.


Scared? Hell I'd be proud if she was that old and looked like that.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;11895492*
> Scared? Hell I'd be proud if she was that old and looked like that.


well I mean i would be proud too, but you have to think. What freaky medication is she on.


----------



## eloverton2

what is going on? this thread has taken an odd turn...


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11895887*
> well I mean i would be proud too, but you have to think. What freaky medication is she on.


I wouldn't call the fountain of youth medication.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Where can I get compression fittings on the cheap besides used?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;11896036*
> I wouldn't call the fountain of youth medication.


I would be scared because when she is like 60 and I am looking old, she will look like a super model, and might want younger men. LOL.


----------



## wermad

meh, Im just doing it...

edit: j/k, better pic to continue this thread derailment:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11896055*
> Where can I get compression fittings on the cheap besides used?


sidewindercomputers had the four pack of feser 1/2x3/4 for $10, they don't have em anymore







.

what size you looking for?

edit: double post, sorry


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11896055*
> Where can I get compression fittings on the cheap besides used?


pretty decent deals here
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c409/s1033/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Compression-12_ID_Compression-Page1.html


----------



## wermad

Enzotech makes some slightly cheaper alternative Bitspower compression fittings, I like the orange o-ring and bio-hazard graphics


----------



## AdvanSuper

Frozencpu is way over priced. I haven't looked at sidewinder yet.

I'm looking for 90 degree and regular ones for 7/16 ID tubing.


----------



## wermad

7/16x5/8?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Yup


----------



## wermad

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/coandro.html


----------



## AdvanSuper

Yeah I'm on that page, but I'm being cheap. I'll have to see how much I have left over after ordering all my other crap.


----------



## t77snapshot

Hello, I first jumped into the water cooling world almost 2 years ago. My first loop was this HP setup and never made it into the main rig.










After testing the waters I sat on it for a long time and ended up selling all the gear for quick cash.

I sorta jumped back into wc'ing and got the Corsair H50 cooler>>>










I was now ready to get back into the real deal and build me a new one! Once I finally decided how I want the loop to run I setup a rough build to test for leaks. (see pic)










This is my first (official) water loop and I am very happy with the results!

*specs:*

Koolance 2x140 Radiator
XSPC RX120 Radiator
PrimoChill 7/16"ID, 5/8"OD
BitsPower Compression fittings
Swiftech Apogee XT CPU Block
EK DCP 4.0 Res/ MCP 4.0 Pump
Distilled Water with PT Nuke






















































thanks for looking


----------



## loki_reborn

Putting my rig together today so long as the courier shows up with the rest of my parts.

Don't expect anything too pretty though as I have zero cable management. Stupid case with it mobo tray being the back panel. I'll do my best though.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t77snapshot;11896426*


Your rig looks really nice. I like the retro style theme. Heck even the PSU matches.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11897457*
> Your rig looks really nice. I like the retro style theme. Heck even the PSU matches.


Thank you yeah the psu was planned, too bad the Corsair 850 or 950 wasn't orange lol!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11897992*
> updated


thanks kevin!

I ride bmx myself...check out my profile


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11896112*
> Frozencpu is way over priced. I haven't looked at sidewinder yet.
> 
> I'm looking for 90 degree and regular ones for 7/16 ID tubing.


Now i have to believe you didn't even look.
Frozencpu is selling a few fittings that are like half the price of the same thing on sidewinder computers.

Don't assume stuff.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11898774*
> Now i have to believe you didn't even look.
> Frozencpu is selling a few fittings that are like half the price of the same thing on sidewinder computers.
> 
> Don't assume stuff.


Frozen sometimes has a slightly wider selection of specialty parts, but I find them to be more expensive too. Granted individual parts may be cheaper here and there, but in a combined order by the time shipping and everything is added in, Sidewinder is usually cheaper for me.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

performance-pcs.com has always been the cheapest for me...


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11898950*
> performance-pcs.com has always been the cheapest for me...


Agreed. Not only do they have the largest and best selection IMHO, but if anyone has stuff cheaper it's usually like $9.95 instead of $10


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;11899239*
> Agreed. Not only do they have the largest and best selection IMHO, but if anyone has stuff cheaper it's usually like $9.95 instead of $10


selection is actually the only thing that i have been disappointed in them for, there have been several things i have been forced to get from other places.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Who's on their way to CES?

That's right, ME!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Who's on their way to CES?
> 
> That's right, ME!


Who sucks?

That's right, YOU DO!


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11899425*
> selection is actually the only thing that i have been disappointed in them for, there have been several things i have been forced to get from other places.


Really? I have always thought of their selection as being top-notch; whenever I have to get something somewhere else, it's usually like ptnuke from sidewinders or masterkleer tubing from jab-tech. I did have to get my PA140.3 from sidewinders though because PPCs doesn't stock Thermochill products anymore apparently.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11896055*
> Where can I get compression fittings on the cheap besides used?


From me haha, oh wait, not used.... Anyway, I've got ~20 BP Silver 1/2x5/8 if you wanted to PM me.


----------



## loki_reborn

Took a lot of effort squeezing all this into this case and having the layout to something I liked. Certainly not as pretty as some of the builds in this thread, but not too shabby for my first proper water loop.

Parts used:

EK HF Suprmeme Nickel
EK FC5870 Nickel
EK ASUS M4 Mosfet Plexi
XSPC RX360 Rad
MCP355 18w Pump
Bitspower 250ml Resevoir
Compression fittings all round

The NB & SB were supposed to be on blocks too but I ordered the wrong ones.....doh! I will add them in later on and I am planning on adding another 5870 and possibly another radiator.

Here are the pics for your enjoyment........C&C more than welcome.


























































































Might not be to everyones taste, but I like the mad scientist vibe I have going on, on top of the case. It will suffice until I get a TJ11 and an extra 360 rad in the bottom anyway.

Thanks for looking.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11898774*
> Now i have to believe you didn't even look.
> Frozencpu is selling a few fittings that are like half the price of the same thing on sidewinder computers.
> 
> Don't assume stuff.


Don't assume? LOL. FrozenCPU is more expensive than PPC's and sidewinder. I've been browsing these sites long enough to know which ones have good deals and which don't. Not only that their shipping prices suck too.

Bitspower G1/4 Thread 90-Degree Rotary 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD Compression Fitting - *This is just one example of their many higher prices.*

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimablro90de.html - Sidewinder - $16.25

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27480 - PPC - $16.25

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10753/ex-tub-677/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MB90R2LCPF-CC6.html?tl=g30c409s1203 - FrozenCPU - a whopping $17.99 and some are almost $2 more.

Post above needs to resize those pics please.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;11900828*
> From me haha, oh wait, not used.... Anyway, I've got ~20 BP Silver 1/2x5/8 if you wanted to PM me.


I want black fittings though.


----------



## sndstream

Small update on my rig as I wanted to use my new camera....


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11901277*
> Don't assume? LOL. FrozenCPU is more expensive than PPC's and sidewinder. I've been browsing these sites long enough to know which ones have good deals and which don't. Not only that their shipping prices suck too.
> *This*
> I want black fittings though.
> *...picky!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


..


----------



## AdvanSuper

I have to keep with the color scheme! I have a gold plated block so if I added silver it would look weird lol.

I also always hate FrozenCPU trying to sell me cocaine with every purchase I might make!


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream;11901499*
> Small update on my rig as I wanted to use my new camera....


+1 for that!







what camera did you get?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Would it look stupid if I used this 45 degree for the CPU to GPU









And then this 90 degree for the GPU out to the res?









Or should I just use these for both


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t77snapshot;11902281*
> +1 for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what camera did you get?


I got the Canon EOS Rebel t2i for Christmas. I wanted a good starter dslr camera as I have no clue what I'm doing lol. My whole memory stick is full of random rig and cat pics which says I should probably get out more. I started wanting a better camera after looking though all the build logs and how well some of them came out....


----------



## wermad

Jab-tech: pros: cheap shipping, low prices, 5% discount code "facebook"
Cons: low selection, out-stock for a lot of stuff.

PPCS: Pros: huge selection, on stop shop
Cons: shipping gets expensive, no discounts

Frozencpu: Pros: big selection, discount code 5% "pcapex", good shipping rates.
Cons: Expensive and sometimes outrageous mark-ups (ie mcp 655 is $105














)

sidewindercomputers: Pros: good prices, crazy clearance priced items (ie TFC 1/2x3/4 compression, 4x for $10, no longer available though







)
cons: shipping is expensive, low selection, out-of stock items

I know there are a few more sites (koolertek, svc, xoxide, crazypc, newegg <-questionable







) but these are the sites I frequent more when Im making my purchases.


----------



## AdvanSuper

lol I got $1.53 off with the facebook code.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11902679*
> lol I got $1.53 off with the facebook code.


kewl


----------



## AdvanSuper

Wermad, I just need one of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27824 and two of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27830 , correct?


----------



## jp27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11903288*
> Wermad, I just need one of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27824 and two of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27830 , correct?


dont need u fittings too or no?


----------



## jp27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream;11901499*
> Small update on my rig as I wanted to use my new camera....


how good are those enermax fans compared to GT's?

any place to buy them in US?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11903288*
> Wermad, I just need one of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27824 and two of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27830 , correct?


Yup, bridge + connectors x2 ("gforce links").
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jp27;11903368*
> dont need u fittings too or no?


he's already getting some compression fittings


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jp27;11903368*
> dont need u fittings too or no?


Only for the intake and exhaust ports for that block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11903434*
> he's already getting some compression fittings


Ehh not quite yet. My budget calls for 2 different variations. EK bridge + regular barb fittings or DD/Enzo SLI bridge + compression fittings.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11901277*
> Don't assume? LOL. FrozenCPU is more expensive than PPC's and sidewinder. I've been browsing these sites long enough to know which ones have good deals and which don't. Not only that their shipping prices suck too.
> 
> Bitspower G1/4 Thread 90-Degree Rotary 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD Compression Fitting - *This is just one example of their many higher prices.*
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimablro90de.html - Sidewinder - $16.25
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27480 - PPC - $16.25
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10753/ex-tub-677/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MB90R2LCPF-CC6.html?tl=g30c409s1203 - FrozenCPU - a whopping $17.99 and some are almost $2 more.
> 
> Post above needs to resize those pics please.
> 
> I want black fittings though.


omg, $17 for one fitting... i think i paid like $10 for all of my barbs








wish i could afford fancy fittings, i need a 45 i think or 2 to make my tubing look better though


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11903288*
> Wermad, I just need one of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27824 and two of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27830 , correct?


this might be a dumb question, but anyone have pics of how these two connect/install?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Only for the intake and exhaust ports for that block.

Ehh not quite yet. My budget calls for 2 different variations. EK bridge + regular barb fittings or DD/Enzo SLI bridge + compression fittings.


oohh, my bad







, go w/ some barbs and later upgrade to compression if your on a budget. get some nice clamps for the barbs if you want a bit of bling.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11903632*
> this might be a dumb question, but anyone have pics of how these two connect/install?


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5q3MVjoXmv4[/ame]

Should I do the EK bridge or the SLI fittings like the DD kit?


----------



## jrsprice

This is an awesome water cooling system. Get the most bang for your buck. I just picked one up on frozen for 130 but purchased another radiator 140mm dual radiator. I'll install it this upcoming weekend and def. will post pictures asap! Going from the CoolIt ECO, hope to see some gains.


----------



## |WD-40|

XSPC Rasa 750 kit.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11899924*
> Who's on their way to CES?
> 
> That's right, ME!


Swing by and pick me up!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11905511*
> Swing by and pick me up!


Finish that rig so you can drive us all there! Back to the shop with you!


----------



## FannBlade

You sound like my wife!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11906183*
> You sound like my wife!


Haha I don't know, if she kept sending you out there wouldn't we have more updates?







I really like your work, you have real talent. Oh and laudable generosity for your awesome case give-aways!


----------



## Freakn

Is this Thermaltake coolant any good?

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1162&ID=1641

Bearing in mind I'm in aus and this is the only coolant I can pick up locally


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;11906531*
> Is this Thermaltake coolant any good?
> 
> http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1162&ID=1641
> 
> Bearing in mind I'm in aus and this is the only coolant I can pick up locally


Distiller water or di-ionized water with Silver killcoils are better, those liquids can damage your CPU block or something else.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;11906531*
> Is this Thermaltake coolant any good?
> 
> http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1162&ID=1641
> 
> Bearing in mind I'm in aus and this is the only coolant I can pick up locally


Avoid dyes/pre-mixed and also stay away from Thermaltake water stuff, its really low quality components and not worth any damage to your setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11906649*
> Distiller water or di-ionized water with Silver killcoils are better, those liquids can damage your CPU block or something else.


^^^this, distilled is cheap + 0.999 silver (ie kill.coil IandH, etc.)


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;11906241*
> Haha I don't know, if she kept sending you out there wouldn't we have more updates?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like your work, you have real talent. Oh and laudable generosity for your awesome case give-aways!


Wait till she comes home and sees a new lathe in the garage!

Thanks


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11906649*
> Distiller water or di-ionized water with Silver killcoils are better, those liquids can damage your CPU block or something else.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11906929*
> Avoid dyes/pre-mixed and also stay away from Thermaltake water stuff, its really low quality components and not worth any damage to your setup.
> 
> ^^^this, distilled is cheap + 0.999 silver (ie kill.coil IandH, etc.)


Ok thanks, I'll see what I can find over here

Does this stuff do the same thing http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_90_131&products_id=1991 *?*


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;11907278*
> Ok thanks, I'll see what I can find over here
> 
> Does this stuff do the same thing http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_90_131&products_id=1991 *?*


Looks fine to me, pretty much any biocide will work.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11906953*
> Wait till she comes home and sees a new lathe in the garage!
> 
> Thanks


Did that come in today? I know you've been rumbling about getting one...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;11907278*
> Ok thanks, I'll see what I can find over here
> 
> Does this stuff do the same thing http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_90_131&products_id=1991 *?*


biocides are ok, but w/ the whole EK/PTnuke controversy, I'm only recommending distilled + 0.99 silver (ie kill.coil) atm.


----------



## |WD-40|

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;11906531*
> Is this Thermaltake coolant any good?
> 
> http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1162&ID=1641
> 
> Bearing in mind I'm in aus and this is the only coolant I can pick up locally


I agree with the above post, distilled water + silver kill coil is the best.
If you have to pick a fluid, then use feser one because it has anti corrosive.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Did that come in today? I know you've been rumbling about getting one...


rambling soon to = reality









It's like shopping for PC parts.

"yea that's enough,but for $50 more I can get this"

I have a unit in mind hope to go look at it today, but I need to re-paint a door on "case giveaway #2"

Here is the one I'm looking @


----------



## Mr. Scary

Im doin' the feser and distilled. i'd like to pick up a coil, just for piece of mind.
@FreakN-Also, i'd stay way away from Thermaltake stuff, clogged up on me and reacted bad with my koolance blocks(VID-278's).
@wermad-great write up and review on the shops!!!
@sndstream-congratz on the camera waaaaayyy nice!!!
@Shorty, i'm with you, wish i could afford those nice lookin' high end fittings!!! Soon!?!?! LOL!!!!
@WD40-Very nice with the fan mounting brackets bro, I'm inspired! I'm currently struggling with a MCR220 Stack myself! btw, those fans are pulling, right?








@FanBlade-WOW, new lathe huh? Santa sure was nice this year!!! Sounds like you'll be sleeping either on or with that thing when the wife see's..?????..????? LOL, good luck!

Pics comin' up of 'The Twins'(Stark&Striped Nekid), just a couple members of the Folding Nudist Colony, muahahahahahahahaha!!!

M$


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

we hit 600 members!


----------



## Syrillian

.. with over 1,000,000 views!


----------



## Liighthead

congrats guys.. give it 5 or 6 days n ill be our 2 join ;D

orded a rs750 kit







with the 360 rad. not sure where to mount it though lol *waves buby to vulcan- guess gotta use centrion 590. or make a case lol idk xD


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Syrillian*


.. with over 1,000,000 views!











yea, I noticed that yesterday


----------



## FannBlade

Nice! This is how threads should be run. Lots of activity and OP always keeping it updated and on track.

*Nice Job Kevingreenbmx!*


----------



## sgilmore62

Just hooked up my first WC loop last night. Got some more sleeved cables coming along with a gpu block and some 3/4OD black Primochill tubing.


----------



## LittleDevil

*Almost finished friend's case.
















*


----------



## Batou

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LittleDevil*


*Almost finished friend's case.
















*


Hi LD, i saw some of your cases, stunning








Please could you tell me which fans did you use for this one?
I saw them yet before but i can't find the brand. Thank you.

EDIT: btw, that is a dual cpu motherboard, could you tell me its specs plz?
I mean system specs if it is possible, ty.
Seems like your friend spent like 4k €+ on that setup


----------



## loki_reborn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Batou;11913064*
> Hi LD, i saw some of your cases, stunning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please could you tell me which fans did you use for this one?
> I saw them yet before but i can't find the brand. Thank you.
> 
> EDIT: btw, that is a dual cpu motherboard, could you tell me its specs plz?
> I mean system specs if it is possible, ty.
> Seems like your friend spent like 4k €+ on that setup


Unless I am mistaken, they are Xigamatek XLF fans, the same as in my build.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11911240*
> updated
> 
> we hit 600 members!


Just wanted to say thanks to Kevin for all your efforts in keeping this club 'updated' lol. Best watercooling club on the net


----------



## Mr. Scary

Those fans are nice, especially with the tubing Very eye catching setup, bet it's more impressive in person!?!?!!!!

M$

+1 on the 'Club'


----------



## loki_reborn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;11914922*
> Just wanted to say thanks to Kevin for all your efforts in keeping this club 'updated' lol. Best watercooling club on the net


Same here. Well done for keeping this monster of a thread in check Kevin.


----------



## Yukss

*better pics*


----------



## loki_reborn

Nice build. How is that thermaltake system working for ya. Good temps?


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn;11915554*
> Nice build. How is that thermaltake system working for ya. Good temps?


actually nice..! nice idlle temps: 37/43/40/42 most of the time with 23C° room temperature ...
here some pics of my load temps runing 3dmark vanatge and 06


----------



## loki_reborn

Nice one, my rig might look completely ghetto rigged but I rarely break 40c full load on the cpu. I love my RX360 rad.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11902651*
> Jab-tech: pros: cheap shipping, low prices, 5% discount code "facebook"
> Cons: low selection, out-stock for a lot of stuff.
> 
> PPCS: Pros: huge selection, on stop shop
> Cons: shipping gets expensive, no discounts
> 
> Frozencpu: Pros: big selection, discount code 5% "pcapex", good shipping rates.
> Cons: Expensive and sometimes outrageous mark-ups (ie mcp 655 is $105
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> sidewindercomputers: Pros: good prices, crazy clearance priced items (ie TFC 1/2x3/4 compression, 4x for $10, no longer available though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> cons: shipping is expensive, low selection, out-of stock items
> 
> I know there are a few more sites (koolertek, svc, xoxide, crazypc, newegg <-questionable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but these are the sites I frequent more when Im making my purchases.


When i ordered my RS360 kit, I got 13 dollars off using pcapex.
So i basicly got free shipping.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11915883*
> When i ordered my RS360 kit, I got 13 dollars off using pcapex.
> So i basicly got free shipping.


Cool







, see frozencpu is not bad at all









I just sold my pump and my new one don't get here until next week. no rig for this weekend


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11916200*
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , see frozencpu is not bad at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just sold my pump and my new one don't get here until next week. no rig for this weekend


Just don't go pulling the pump out of your washer, wife might get mad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;11916375*
> Just don't go pulling the pump out of your washer, wife might get mad












I was thinking of hijacking my aquariums pump







, lol. I'll survive for now


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Will be broken up into two posts, sorry for the crappy pics.

As far as equipment goes...
EK Supreme HF Nickle CPU block
EK Plexi/Copper GPU block
655 Pump
FrozenQ Res
360 Black Ice Stealth GT
120 Black Ice Stealth GT
3x AC Ryan 120MM 2500 RPM
2x Xigmatek 120MM 1500 RPM
Bitspower Barbs
Koolance Quick disconnect


----------



## CookieSayWhat

This is the rest of it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat;11917118*
> Will be broken up into two posts, sorry for the crappy pics.
> 
> As far as equipment goes...
> EK Supreme HF Nickle CPU block
> EK Plexi/Copper GPU block
> 655 Pump
> FrozenQ Res
> 360 Black Ice Stealth GT
> 120 Black Ice Stealth GT
> 3x AC Ryan 120MM 2500 RPM
> 2x Xigmatek 120MM 1500 RPM
> Bitspower Barbs
> Koolance Quick disconnect


nice build









Im itching to get the FrozenQ res


----------



## Liighthead

my rs750 kit arrived.

gotta get distilled water though..
would it be alright without silver for 4 to 5 days? or just dont put it on comp till then?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11917384*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my rs750 kit arrived.
> 
> gotta get distilled water though..
> would it be alright without silver for 4 to 5 days? or just dont put it on comp till then?


yup


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11917384*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my rs750 kit arrived.
> 
> gotta get distilled water though..
> would it be alright without silver for 4 to 5 days? or just dont put it on comp till then?


Unless you have a clear rig with sun light directly on the tubing, you can run for weeks without anything.

If you have it all protected from light in a case you can run for months without a biocide, not recommended, but the little critters don't grow very fast when there isn't light.


----------



## Morizuno

hey guys, what's the best way to mount an external res? it didn't come with scres long enough for the fan(s) + rad if i mount it on the exhaust


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11917517*
> hey guys, what's the best way to mount an external res? it didn't come with scres long enough for the fan(s) + rad if i mount it on the exhaust


which one you got?

Koolance has brackets for the tube res to mount them on a fan 120mm fan opening.

Just go w/ zip/cable ties.


----------



## jclark

wermad,
The FrozenQ is worth every penny, I can just sit and look at it all day long


----------



## bl1nk

Just installed the cathodes, a bit disappointed on what they call "red". This was my first build and my first shot at water cooling. Constructive criticism/suggestions on anything is appreciated. Temps are great, just workin on making it look better.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jclark;11918289*
> wermad,
> The FrozenQ is worth every penny, I can just sit and look at it all day long


I already bought a drive bay res, so the FrozenQ is on my upgrade list for the future. how long did it take for yours to come in? I hear there is a waiting period to get one.


----------



## jclark

Bought mine from PPCS, they have quite a few in stock...
I got myself the red version with side ports, came with matte black icecaps as well









A link to my older post with pics:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/584302-ocn-water-cooling-club-picture-gallery-651.html#post11851839


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

thanks for the praise guys! glad you enjoy the thread 

and as to the liquid fusion res's - I am not so excited over mine anymore. it was very expensive, took 2 months to get, and leaks even after fixing it twice already. They do look incredible though, so i guess that redeems it...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11919770*
> and as to the liquid fusion res's - I am not so excited over mine anymore. it was very expensive, took 2 months to get, and leaks even after fixing it twice already. They do look incredible though, so i guess that redeems it...


Thanks for the feedback Kev


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11919789*
> Thanks for the feedback Kev


yea, np

The res's are very nice, and they do look great, but alex needs to work on his quality control and his ordering system.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

I've had mine since the beginning of December and it hasn't leaked on me yet.

I got mine off of PerformancePC though so...It does look really amazing. The one thing that gets me though is how bright it is. The picture kind of shows it, but the thing is incredibly bright. Drowning out everything else in the case when its on.


----------



## Theory




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Phatal

I bought that red res from frozen among with 20 feet of tubing and it got here in about 10 days. Haven't set my loop yet as I'm waiting for my radiator which I did a RMA and a few other cool stuff like R3E and sleeved cables.


----------



## Liighthead

^ 20 feet?!?!?!?!?! long enough? why so much

btw: leak testing new loop














more pics when put it on properly lol. 
gotta find/make a case though. thinkin a tech bench? but not sure atm 









then it goes on/in their somewhere lol


----------



## Xraven771

Can i Join








Sorry about bad images 
















And The Case xD


----------



## Phatal

Dunno, this is my first set up and someone told me I need to buy 10-15 feet. I then said as I'm kinda new I'll buy 20 feet so I could play around with it.


----------



## FannBlade

Sure beats being 2 ft. short.


----------



## 808MP5

yup... always buy more than you think you need... when i first put my loop together i picked up 15feet... wasn't enough so i had to wait a week to receive another 10feet... with just a little over a foot to spare... and a bunch wasted.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Bad picture quality, my camera is out of commission at the moment.


----------



## mm67




----------



## bundymania

Here i have some very rare and exclusive waterblocks to show:


----------



## Bal3Wolf

This is my final cable and loop setup unless i add anothe rad which will be later on not anytime soon. As good as its gonna get for now.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11928334*
> This is my final cable and loop setup unless i add anothe rad which will be later on not anytime soon. As good as its gonna get for now.


Much cleaner. I liked to use acoustic foam to hide cables when I had a case with a black interior. Multi purpose


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;11928195*
> Here i have some very rare and exclusive waterblocks to show:


That a tease and go? Please tell us more. Thats some nice work.


----------



## Mixfloors

Just completed my first W/C project. May I enter the club pls.

Swiftech Apogee XT CPU block
Koolance GTX 480 blocks x 2
Koolance 3-4 slot SLI adapters
Koolance external rad mount
Swiftech 320 drive rad (external)
3 x fesser + 3 x Noiseblocker mulitframe fans
Swiftech 220 drive rad (internal)
Noiseblocker silent fans
Swiftech micro res2 x2
Bitspower 2 x powerboards
Primoflex 1/2id tubing (green)
Bitspower CC5 compression fittings
Bitspower 45/90/multi rotary adapters x heaps + extension tubes
Koolance VLN4 "no spill" x2 for drain point
Molex extension cables
De-everything'd water + anti fungal solution
Various party lights














































Q- Would the red path be better than the yellow in this pic ? It would remove the res, but get rid of the silver (chimmney) tubing, which I think looks ugly.









Thanks
Mike


----------



## FannBlade

WoW. Nice looking build


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mixfloors;11929167*
> Q- Would the red path be better than the yellow in this pic ? It would remove the res, but get rid of the silver (chimmney) tubing, which I think looks ugly.
> 
> Thanks
> Mike


Hey Mike,

Get rid of that reservoir. Your radiator serves as a reservoir in your case since it is coupled with the pump. Not to mention the direction going into that reservoir is incorrect.

In fact, you need to get rid of both reservoirs. They are going to kill your flowrate.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11928426*
> Much cleaner. I liked to use acoustic foam to hide cables when I had a case with a black interior. Multi purpose


Yea and way i wire tied stuff its came in handy when i take the back door off the stuff stays in place making it easyer to put back on. I might get some foam later down the road when i get my 2nd rad and another gpu.


----------



## Mixfloors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;11929247*
> Hey Mike,
> 
> Get rid of that reservoir. Your radiator serves as a reservoir in your case since it is coupled with the pump. Not to mention the direction going into that reservoir is incorrect.
> 
> In fact, you need to get rid of both reservoirs. They are going to kill your flowrate.


Ahh ok, thats interesting, thanks for the advice, (I know about the direction, its just what fitted at the time) the bottom one will definatley go as I can still put an exit point at the bottom of a GFX block. Would the top one be that detremental ? or can you suggest an alternate fitting for ease of draining. Undoing compression fittings is a killer on the fingers.... LOL and could lead to spillage where I dont want it. ATM they drain without a drop where you dont want it.










and at a "gestimate", how much flow would I gain and what would that mean in temp drop as a % or in degrees C, or F.

Thanks
Mike

PS, thanks Fannblade


----------



## kILLDR3n

I plan on getting this kit http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...m.html#options

If I buy different tubing what size should I get and would it need to require me to buy anything else like different fittings?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kILLDR3n;11930186*
> I plan on getting this kit http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_Hot_Item.html#options
> 
> If I buy different tubing what size should I get and would it need to require me to buy anything else like different fittings?


Nope, the kit is 1/2in everything, but comes with 7/16in tubing, but all the barbs and clamps are ment for 1/2in.

I replaced my tubing as well


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Nope, the kit is 1/2in everything, but comes with 7/16in tubing, but all the barbs and clamps are ment for 1/2in.

I replaced my tubing as well


The 7/16 5/8 is good on 1/2inch cause of the tight fit and once you get it over the barb that part is really a 1/2inch thats why the clamps are made for 1/2inch.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


The 7/16 5/8 is good on 1/2inch cause of the tight fit and once you get it over the barb that part is really a 1/2inch thats why the clamps are made for 1/2inch.


Yea you can buy either 7/16in ID or 1/2in ID tubing. both will work just fine.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phatal;11925328*
> Dunno, this is my first set up and someone told me I need to buy 10-15 feet. I then said as I'm kinda new I'll buy 20 feet so I could play around with it.


Better to be lookin' at it than lookin' for it







.


----------



## kILLDR3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11930224*
> Nope, the kit is 1/2in everything, but comes with 7/16in tubing, but all the barbs and clamps are ment for 1/2in.
> 
> I replaced my tubing as well


Any recommendations on which tubing to get and how much?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kILLDR3n;11931028*
> Any recommendations on which tubing to get and how much?


I have feser UV blue tubing, I like it and it looks good.

I bought a 2.5 meter pack of it for just a CPU loop and I have about 2 feet left over.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s172/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-12_ID_Tubing-Page1.html

really any of the tubing from there will be fine, if you don't want colored tubing look into the tygon tubing.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kILLDR3n*


Any recommendations on which tubing to get and how much?


i bought 10ft when i first built my loop, used all 10 ft, but when i redid my loop to clean it up after i had more experence i ordered 8 ft and came out with like 3ft left over on a cpu only loop in a large case.


----------



## Liighthead

i got 1 meter only for cpu and currntly on a box but yeah haha next time would get more :] idk about 10 - 20 ft though 

oh btw







add me finaly haha


----------



## kILLDR3n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


i bought 10ft when i first built my loop, used all 10 ft, but when i redid my loop to clean it up after i had more experence i ordered 8 ft and came out with like 3ft left over on a cpu only loop in a large case.


Should I buy by the foot or just a long piece? Also is using UV dye with distilled water or just UV coolant really all that harmful?


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kILLDR3n*


Should I buy by the foot or just a long piece? Also is using UV dye with distilled water or just UV coolant really all that harmful?


Don't buy the bulk packages of it, it actually runs more expensive. Just buy it by the foot. Get UV tubing if you're looking for some color; coolant/dye will cause harm to your loop, blockages, and worse temps. Distilled water + Pt Nuke/Killcoil always.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mixfloors*


Ahh ok, thats interesting, thanks for the advice, (I know about the direction, its just what fitted at the time) the bottom one will definatley go as I can still put an exit point at the bottom of a GFX block. Would the top one be that detremental ? or can you suggest an alternate fitting for ease of draining. Undoing compression fittings is a killer on the fingers.... LOL and could lead to spillage where I dont want it. ATM they drain without a drop where you dont want it.

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...0cooling/5.jpg

and at a "gestimate", how much flow would I gain and what would that mean in temp drop as a % or in degrees C, or F.

Thanks
Mike


Actually you might be fine with the loop for your CPU. Basically you're going reservoir → radiator/pump/reservoir combo. It seems a bit redundant but if it makes it easier to fill the loop, I think you will be okay.

Now the loop for your video cards, definitely change that. The reservoir isn't setup correctly as you have the top feeding into the radiator.

As for how much of a difference, I am not sure. My thinking is that it will be significant. What are your temperatures for your CPU and GPUs?


----------



## Liighthead

mm what todo for a case?

buy a cheap 1?
tech bench? ( build 1 )
or... lol


----------



## TheReciever

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


mm what todo for a case?

buy a cheap 1?
tech bench? ( build 1 )
or... lol


Vulcan


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheReciever*


Vulcan










lol but i couldnt get the dual bay rez thingey in their..

so gave up
xD! its in its box now.. haha


----------



## TheReciever

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


lol but i couldnt get the dual bay rez thingey in their..

so gave up
xD! its in its box now.. haha


oh yeah, completely forgot that post...

I hear the m59 is a good case as well, not much into the case scene, more of a impulse buyer lol


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheReciever*


oh yeah, completely forgot that post...

I hear the m59 is a good case as well, not much into the case scene, more of a impulse buyer lol


haha yeah my last 4 cases have been from impluse buying...

including some crap itx one that i never used haha


----------



## Mixfloors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;11932622*
> As for how much of a difference, I am not sure. My thinking is that it will be significant. What are your temperatures for your CPU and GPUs?


Using real temp GPU1=40 and GPU2=34
CPU is i7 940 (stock)= 35 (all temps in celcius)

I know the bottom loop is wrong, its just how I did it to make it fit, when it was all togeather I sat back and smacked my forhead at the stupidity of it when I saw the solution LOL.... but it was 1am and I havnt had time to swap it over, will do it tomorrow...
I also think I might have been too frugal on the TIM with GPU 1, might pay to pull it out and redo it.
+ I have all fans running on 7v instead of 12 atm, I can easily up that if necesary.

Thanks for your interest and help
Mike


----------



## 12Cores

[email protected] to [email protected]

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1575210


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores;11935799*
> [email protected] to [email protected]
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1575210


Did you remove the sheathing on all your power cables?

Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;11935826*
> Did you remove the sheathing on all your power cables?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


No, my power supply did not come with any sheathing.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores;11935869*
> No, my power supply did not come with any sheathing.


That's a little strange. In any case, you should sleeve them. It drastically changes the look of your rig. It made mine look ten times better

Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunchie;11615932*
> Finally finished off something I have been trying to get around to for a few months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> This is how it spent it first few months:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then finally bought a case to put it into.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laing D5 pump.
> 120.3 Radiator.
> Swiftech GT CPU block.
> EKFC GPU blocks.
> XSPC Reservoir.
> Killcoil.


Nice build!


----------



## mrshimmy

New pic with side window on.










I will probably be getting a dslr soon, and then the pictures can really do it justice.


----------



## gerrardo

Can I join?




































Sorry for the medicore pictures, I swear it looks better in person! This little Kodak Point-n-shoot can't hold a damn setting!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated


Must you ?
UGH!! 
Update every once in a while not everytime!


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Must you ?
UGH!! 
Update every once in a while not everytime!










Kevin's post count minus "updated" = HALVED!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Must you ?
UGH!! 
Update every once in a while not everytime!










dude, I'm at CES, its been like three days since the last one









plus, i hate letting it go more than a day because the new posts add up quick and while one or two at a time is ok, 10 is a pain in my ass...


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


dude, I'm at CES, its been like three days since the last one









plus, i hate letting it go more than a day because the new posts add up quick and while one or two at a time is ok, 10 is a pain in my ass...


Guess you should have thought about that before you decided it was a good idea to create one of the most popular and widely-viewed threads on OCN now, huh?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*


Guess you should have thought about that before you decided it was a good idea to create one of the most popular and widely-viewed threads on OCN now, huh?










yea...

I'm ok with it though


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


dude, I'm at CES, its been like three days since the last one









plus, i hate letting it go more than a day because the new posts add up quick and while one or two at a time is ok, 10 is a pain in my ass...


there is a solution for that.


----------



## asakurahao

Here is an update of my antec 1200 water cooling, i am going RED this time








why didn't i buy the red reservoir in the first place


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asakurahao*









why didn't i buy the red reservoir in the first place


alex sells the helices by themselves for pretty cheap, you should PM him if you want to get a red one.


----------



## jrsprice

Hey all, I'm new here... Anyway here are my latest build pics. I'm still waiting on parts on order like new tubing (got the red uv primoflex stuff), thermaltake m6 alarm system, EK 470 GTX water cooling block, and more fans. All on order so next week I can post pics of my complete build.










Notice I'm missing the return line...









I like having the reservoir at the bottom. This is when I purchased some 1/2 tube from home depot as a temporary thing so I could game out this weekend and give the machine a test drive.









I use to have the CoolIt ECO system which had cpu temps at 35 C in normal conditions and now it's gone down 5 C. Since I'm now running at 30 C, CPU only in the loop, I'm wondering what the temps would be when I add my GPU water block. Will CPU temps go back to 35 C ? I have a spare radiator since I purchased the 140mm radiator along with my kit. I don't like the idea of mounting the 120mm dual radiator on the back since I wouldn't have room under my desk for it. The GPU I'm planning on adding to the loop is a EVGA 470 GTX Superclocked. Any estimates on temperature change?


----------



## jrsprice

Hey all, I'm new here... Anyway here are my latest build pics. I'm still waiting on parts on order like new tubing (got the red uv primoflex stuff), thermaltake m6 alarm system, EK 470 GTX water cooling block, and more fans. All on order so next week I can post pics of my complete build.



















Notice I'm missing the return line... I purchased some 1/2 tube from home depot as a temporary thing so I could game out this weekend and give the machine a test drive.









I like having the reservoir at the bottom. 









I use to have the CoolIt ECO system which had cpu temps at 35 C in normal conditions and now it's gone down 5 C. Since I'm now running at 30 C, CPU only in the loop, I'm wondering what the temps will be when I add my GPU water block. Will CPU temps go back to 35 C ? I have a spare radiator since I purchased the 140mm radiator along with my kit. I don't like the idea of mounting the 120mm dual radiator on the back since I wouldn't have room under my desk for it. The GPU I'm planning on adding to the loop is a EVGA 470 GTX Superclocked. Any estimates on temperature change?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jrsprice

Forgot to mention, I'm only using 1 120mm sitting on the top of the radiator as a temporary solution until I get my new 140mm fans. So the 29C/30C will change (hopefully) since I would like to add my GPU to the loop. I also have only 1 140mm fan inside the case (top right) running since I'm waiting on the fan split pigtails since I want to run them on the same circuit that connects to my fan controller. All fans will blow into the case since I would like to have positive pressure. Will it be ok to run all 4 fans on 1 fan controller knob?


----------



## Rognus

Just a small Update got my I7 Under water along with my 2 6950's

You can check out the Build Log over here http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ast-build.html

Again thanks to everyone for all their help directly or indirectly. Always so much useful info here.


----------



## AdvanSuper

You have to post the pics in here to be added


----------



## x Yoko

New loop


----------



## Rognus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11953333*
> You have to post the pics in here to be added


Was just trying to keep the amount of pics down but If you would like one here you go.










This is just the 2nd rig I have under water.


----------



## KShirza1

Rad relocated and GPU on loop!


----------



## Thingamajig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;11953840*
> Rad relocated and GPU on loop!


Love it. Exactly what i tried to achieve with my CM690 II Advanced in this thread



I wanted everything internal - no exposed piping, no external radiators, all neatly tucked away, protected by the case. Seems like you've pulled that off very nicely.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;11953665*
> New loop


Nice rig, but you need some non uv-reactive Double Protect Ultra to make it look really yellow !









http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p9214_Aquacomputer-Double-Protect-Ultra---Gelb-1000ml.html


----------



## sgilmore62

Got my new XSPC 5970 block and Primochill tubing installed. VRM temps are a little high running Furmark benchmark OC'd.


----------



## sunnyville

do those pneumatic doors come standard?


----------



## t-ramp

Apparently.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sunnyville*


do those pneumatic doors come standard?


 Yeah but really don't see the point of the hydraulic pistons for the top. I left the tubing from res to CPU long so I could raise the top but gonna shorten it next time the water is changed. The piston on the side door would be good if I put a res there but there is only 2" clearance from inside of closed door to GPU block. I can carry the case by the handles on top but have to make sure both fasteners are snapped in place. the reason I bought the case was because it is heavy extruded aluminum and less than $200. The case came with a Thermaltake Bigwater watercooling kit but never used it.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

good choice not to use the big water kit. It's just sooo bad there's no reason for it to exist. That gpu block is awesome!


----------



## thrasherht

I remember being a computer noob and wanting a big water system for my athlon XP 3000+. Best part, i didn't even know how to overclock.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11960695*
> I remember being a computer noob and wanting a big water system for my athlon XP 3000+. Best part, i didn't even know how to overclock.


Lol! I did a full waterloop ever before knowing how to overclock. Hence why I had to rebuy nearly everything and the only things used from the first attempted build are the compression fittings and mobo block.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Liselotte

added gpu last week


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Nice rig, but you need some non uv-reactive Double Protect Ultra to make it look really yellow !









http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...lb-1000ml.html


Thanks :O. I was Fairly disappointed with the actual color of TFC's yellow. It's very green. And under UV, it positively green. I'm hoping the yellow cathodes coming in will make it appear more yellow, but I'll look into that liquid and see if I should move to it, anyways.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liselotte*


added gpu last week











looks solid, quite clean too! I would get the koolance bracket to mount ur rad on the back instead of holding it up with boxes tho. I'm sure you have a plan for that tho


----------



## DrBrownfinger

put this loop together the other day. sig rig.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Hey, Kevin can you update me? Added some new hardware. Haven't seen anyone yet with Heatkiller water blocks on there 500 series cards.









By cd69scorp at 2011-01-08









By cd69scorp at 2011-01-08









By cd69scorp at 2011-01-08









By cd69scorp at 2011-01-08


----------



## ShortySmalls

i almost went with the HK block u have cd69 so i could have all Hk blocks in my loop, but the shinny bling of the EK-FC580 Nickel/accyrlic made be buy that


----------



## CD69Scorp

Ya I know what you mean, but the HK just looks so good to me. And loved the way they performed on my 295 & CPU.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Updated now with MIPS Ram Block, also if people are wondering why so many extenders on the bottom GPU, it now allows me access to the third PCIe slot whereas it was blocked before.


----------



## Emerican

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;11966264*
> Updated now with MIPS Ram Block, also if people are wondering why so many extenders on the bottom GPU, it now allows me access to the third PCIe slot whereas it was blocked before.


beautiful setup!


----------



## Triangle

Why do people wc their ram?


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;11966287*
> Why do people wc their ram?


Epeen and coz we have nothing else to spend our money on.


----------



## Triangle

If I ever do that I am really interested in koolance single stick type ones.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp;11965643*
> Hey, Kevin can you update me? Added some new hardware. Haven't seen anyone yet with Heatkiller water blocks on there 500 series cards.


Those water blocks are amazing! Very Nice!


----------



## Triangle

Yea but if i did that I would also watercool my SSD's, HDDs and my stupid digital vregs that get so damn hot.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

courtesy of alancsalt


----------



## tzillian

just as a warning before anyone attempts this, the EVGA backplates for the GTX 580 are not compatible with the EK 580 waterblock. Now i have three backplates just lying around.


----------



## ScurK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;11969265*
> just as a warning before anyone attempts this, the EVGA backplates for the GTX 580 are not compatible with the EK 580 waterblock. Now i have three backplates just lying around.


What the.... Not even with extenders or something like that? Sounds weird to me


----------



## alancsalt

Is it that there aren't threaded holes in the EK's to match?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;11969265*
> just as a warning before anyone attempts this, the EVGA backplates for the GTX 580 are not compatible with the EK 580 waterblock. Now i have three backplates just lying around.


the backplates for my GTX280's where not "compatible" with my HK blocks either... but I persuaded them.

although those 580 backplates are pretty intense looking, i wouldn't want to have to mod them...


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;11969265*
> just as a warning before anyone attempts this, the EVGA backplates for the GTX 580 are not compatible with the EK 580 waterblock. Now i have three backplates just lying around.


I ran into the same problem with my Heatkiller blocks. Had to notch the part that curls under the pcb board so the bridge would work. Also had to use low profile screws under the plate to hold the block to the card.
Let me know if I can help more. It would be a wast of 60 bucks to not try!!


----------



## bundymania

Today, i have some pics of a new Laing Reservoir/Top Combo and a short Videoclip


















[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjwqOPQJgoM[/ame]


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp;11969449*
> I ran into the same problem with my Heatkiller blocks. Had to notch the part that curls under the pcb board so the bridge would work. Also had to use low profile screws under the plate to hold the block to the card.
> Let me know if I can help more. It would be a wast of 60 bucks to not try!!


yeah, thats the problem. the screw holes match up just fine. the thing is the part that curls under the pcb. that comes in direct contact with waterblock underneath and dosent allow the backplate to sit flat on the card. maybe i can dremel that off or something.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I had the bitspower res that is similar to that and I will never get one like it again.

they are too small and because the inlet to the pump is right in the middle of a circular chamber they will cyclone and suck air into the pump unless you take the effort to get ALL of the air out of the res which is near impossible without a fitting on the top to hook a fill line to.


----------



## bundymania

This new Alphacool Res. has no probs with Airbubbles - look at the video


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;11969606*
> yeah, thats the problem. the screw holes match up just fine. the thing is the part that curls under the pcb. that comes in direct contact with waterblock underneath and dosent allow the backplate to sit flat on the card. maybe i can dremel that off or something.


That's what I did, the dremel & a file comes in handy. Be sure you tape the plate real good as it will scratch easily. Here is a pic of mine.









By cd69scorp at 2011-01-08


----------



## tzillian

NICE, problem with mine is that ill prob have to dremel off the whole thing. ill give it a try tonight.


----------



## itcrashed

I finally completed my first WC rig! I'd like to thank OCN for all the help in cleaning out my wallet and for my wife nagging that I don't pay any attention to her



























Just a few more cables to sleeve (PCI-E power cables) and maybe a little ambient lighting and I'll be all done with this obselete machine hahaha


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## AdvanSuper

So fancy and professional


----------



## Haseo461x




----------



## wermad

New pump


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11975133*


That's a nice "updated" stamp


----------



## TurboTronix




----------



## mastical

Added 1/2in tubing, a new Ek reservoir, some compression fittings.

Swapped out my 5870's for a 6970 for now and unsleeved my 24 because I know i could have done better on it.

Still need a bunch on stuff to finish it tho, its getting expensive.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11975322*
> That's a nice "updated" stamp


haha, thank alancsalt for that 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboTronix;11975355*


you need to right click on the photos and click the copy image location thing instead of using the URL. like this:










I will not add you to the list until you fix the links, let me know when you have done it


----------



## DevilGear44

Not quite sure if I'm allowed to be added without a fully-functional setup, but here are some more recent pictures of my build, I had to take it all apart to replace my MCW80 with the EK block as well as some other modder/ricer-type stuff.

As you can see my 140mmx3 radiator (with push-pull and shrouds on both sides and silicon vibration pads) absolutely dwarfs my little mini-itx test bench. All the barbs are 1/2" Bitspower and I'm going to be using 7/16 Masterkleer. The rez isn't mounted yet but it's a small EK x2 res-150 and because I enjoy my case too much to poke holes in it, I'll probably just end up zip-tying it to the back of the handle, just barely above the pump. I also have x4 4" cathodes (2 green, 2 uv) hidden underneath the mobo tray on each side connected to a rocker switch which fit beautifully unmodded in the left side of my case in one of the oval-slotted cable management holes. Dealing with all the cables was a huge pain considering how many and how large they were, but I think I did a pretty ok job.

































































Hope to post more later.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;11978283*
> Hope to post more later.


please do









I'll add you to the list when you have everything plumbed up


----------



## saint19

Hi guys, I hope that you can help me.

After a failed try to add a freezer radiator to my system, I decide to buy a radiator, in my country are available the Swiftech MRC 320 and MCR 420-QP, but I can order from Siderwindercomputer, Frozen CPU (a little expensive IMO) and performance-PCS. I only want use the WC for my CPU for now, so, what do you think about the MRC 320 and MRC 420-QP? are they good? or what is the best radiator for me? Not too expensive, $70 max.

My components are:

1- EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
2- Swiftech MCP655-D
3- 2xBitspower compression fittings G 1/4 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD

Thanks for your help.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11978774*
> Hi guys, I hope that you can help me.
> 
> After a failed try to add a freezer radiator to my system, I decide to buy a radiator, in my country are available the Swiftech MRC 320 and MCR 420-QP, but I can order from Siderwindercomputer, Frozen CPU (a little expensive IMO) and performance-PCS. I only want use the WC for my CPU for now, so, what do you think about the MRC 320 and MRC 420-QP? are they good? or what is the best radiator for me? Not too expensive, $70 max.
> 
> My components are:
> 
> 1- EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
> 2- Swiftech MCP655-D
> 3- 2xBitspower compression fittings G 1/4 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD
> 
> Thanks for your help.


this is a pretty good rad.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=27125

the RX360 is also very good.

XSPC rads are among the top rated rads out there, and they are priced very well.


----------



## markag

Hey guys, I've had my WC build up and running for about 5 months now. I originally posted some pictures when I first built the system, but they weren't very good pics. Today I set up shop and took some better pictures. Enjoy.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Hi guys, I hope that you can help me.

After a failed try to add a freezer radiator to my system, I decide to buy a radiator, in my country are available the Swiftech MRC 320 and MCR 420-QP, but I can order from Siderwindercomputer, Frozen CPU (a little expensive IMO) and performance-PCS. I only want use the WC for my CPU for now, so, what do you think about the MRC 320 and MRC 420-QP? are they good? or what is the best radiator for me? Not too expensive, $70 max.

My components are:

1- EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
2- Swiftech MCP655-D
3- 2xBitspower compression fittings G 1/4 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD

Thanks for your help.


I've got a pair of the MCR-320s and love them, the new Matte Black ones are great, they're really improved the manufacturing process. I'd get a 320 from Gary at Sidewinder, I've had great interactions with him in the past and he's always done right by me. PPCs and Frozen are good too, for things that Gary doesn't have, but they haven't been able to touch him in terms of customer service which is huge for me, and important since you'll be dealing with him internationally. Heatload wise you don't need anything more than the MCR-320, and it could handle a graphics card or two later too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *markag*


Hey guys, I've had my WC build up and running for about 5 months now. I originally posted some pictures when I first built the system, but they weren't very good pics. Today I set up shop and took some better pictures. Enjoy.


Gotta love those 8800GTS 512's! I just got a 570 the other day because I have a circuit of 3 GTS's, of which 2 seem to be broken, but they're some of the best cards I've ever owned, real workhorses and great underwater







On a side note, if you ever want some EK blocks for them, PM me, I've got one with your name on it haha.


----------



## logan666

heres my raven2


----------



## brl3git

Quote:



Originally Posted by *logan666*


heres my raven2



Wow I didn't realize you could fit a 360 rad in the bottom, nice work it looks pretty sick.


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## markag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Gotta love those 8800GTS 512's! I just got a 570 the other day because I have a circuit of 3 GTS's, of which 2 seem to be broken, but they're some of the best cards I've ever owned, real workhorses and great underwater







On a side note, if you ever want some EK blocks for them, PM me, I've got one with your name on it haha.


Thanks for the comments. The 8800GTS cards really have been great. What are they, 4 years old now? I haven't needed to update them until now. I'm planning on ordering a GTX570 by the end of the week. I really don't need to update, I mainly just want to update so I can have DX11 and run the newest games at higher settings. These cards really have been great.


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## dennis_g

mine after update..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jclark

dennis_g,
Why don't ya ditch the dye and install red tubing instead?
Would even look better in my opinion.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Thinking about painting the backplates... I currently have plastidip, but I don't think that would be very good to put on there. Maybe some high heat grade paint?


----------



## infinite illusions

This is my first water cooling build. Finally done!

EK Supreme HF Nickel
EK FC-5870 Nickel
TFC Feser 480 RAD (Custom RAD grill up top...credit goes to fshizl for the idea/help)
EK MultiOption 250mm Res Advanced
EK pump
Bitspower Compression Fittings (3/8 ID 1/2" OD)
Feser Pink tubing, 3/8 ID 1/2" OD.
4x 1850RPM GentleTyphoons on the 480 in Push configuration.

More pics will come soon, these were taken on the fly.


----------



## Tcassxx

........hi.......


----------



## Tennobanzai

Tcass - very nice. I like how you setup your pump on its side.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11984701*
> Thinking about painting the backplates... I currently have plastidip, but I don't think that would be very good to put on there. Maybe some high heat grade paint?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> I think I'm going to paint the backplates gold to match my EK block instead [IMG alt="biggrin.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/biggrin.gif


----------



## ScurK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tcassxx;11984795*


Nice rig dude, but you need to fill out what watercooling gear is in if you want to be in the club.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;11986013*
> Nice rig dude, but you need to fill out what watercooling gear is in if you want to be in the club.


Since when? All you need are pictures


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;11986013*
> Nice rig dude, but you need to fill out what watercooling gear is in if you want to be in the club.


how can you not tell what's used?


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11986141*
> how can you not tell what's used?


But... That could be any brand of tubing for all we know!!


----------



## ScurK

Hey man, I am only trying to help the dude. Kevin demands a list of water cooling hardware if one is to be accepted in the club...
So much for trying to help.


----------



## infinite illusions

I better edit my post then. I was pretty vague.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Lol Kevin just wants pictures he doesn't demand anything.


----------



## Liselotte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11962295*
> looks solid, quite clean too! I would get the koolance bracket to mount ur rad on the back instead of holding it up with boxes tho. I'm sure you have a plan for that tho


Im planning on mounting my GPU rad at the back but not sure which tools to use. Thanks for the link!


----------



## Tcassxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai;11984819*
> Tcass - very nice. I like how you setup your pump on its side.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;11986013*
> Nice rig dude, but you need to fill out what watercooling gear is in if you want to be in the club.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11986052*
> Since when? All you need are pictures


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11986141*
> how can you not tell what's used?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;11986430*
> But... That could be any brand of tubing for all we know!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;11987053*
> Hey man, I am only trying to help the dude. Kevin demands a list of water cooling hardware if one is to be accepted in the club...
> So much for trying to help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11987666*
> Lol Kevin just wants pictures he doesn't demand anything.


Hi.. Guys...sorry, but i dont speak english...









I use google translator...









My signature:

CORE i7 [email protected],2GHz/WC EK BLOCKS-XSPC-SWIFTECH-BLACK ICE® SR1 360 RADIATOR/RAMPAGE III EXTREME X58/CORSAIR DOMINATOR 1600MHz 6GB C7/EVGA GTX 260 SC 216P-55NM
WD VELOCIRAPTOR 150GB/3 SEAGATE 2 X 500 GB 32MB/1 T 32MB
G19/MX-REVOLUTION/RAZER DESTRUCTOR/Z 5500/SAMSUNG P2470HN/ENERMAX EVO 1250W/SLEEVED/COSMOS S

My setup WC:

cpu: EK-Supreme HF Nickel/Plexi + Mounting plate Supreme HF Intel - Nickel

mobo: EK-FB RE3 - Asus Rampage III Extreme - Nickel/Plexi

fittings: Bitspower 7/6-5/8 (Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Rotary 45 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter + Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter + Bitspower Premium G1/4" Black Sparkle High Flow 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Compression Fitting)

pump: Swiftech MCP355™ 12 VDC Pump + XSPC Clear Acrylic Top

radiator:Black Ice® SR1 360 Radiator

tubing: Tygon 3603 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Clear Tubing

Fluid: Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid - UV Red - 1 Liter + Mayhems Dye Candy Red 5ml

Reservoir: XSPC Bay Reservoir 5.25" - Aluminum Front -Black/Silver

thx...


----------



## Willhemmens

Few people knew I was going a little more green, well here's the latest, not complete but I'm happy with this stage.

The 24Pin sleeving will be sorted and cables such as fan and USB cables are still to be sleeved, when I've got time.

So here we are.


























































Photo's are resized, dont think many people want to be loading just over 23mb of images.

Anyone got an idea why the Lamptron FC6 fan controller doesnt want to fit in the front of my 700D correctly? As seen in the first and second photo, its sitting back in the case, although I'm using the only screw whole in the FC6 and on the 700D, my old Zalman fitted just fine.


----------



## itcrashed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;11988110*
> Anyone got an idea why the Lamptron FC6 fan controller doesnt want to fit in the front of my 700D correctly? As seen in the first and second photo, its sitting back in the case, although I'm using the only screw whole in the FC6 and on the 700D, my old Zalman fitted just fine.


There shouldn't be a screw hole in the 700D. If you use the hole it will set it back about 1/4 inch like you have pictured. You are actually supposed to line the screw hole on the lamptron with the metal spring that has a little indentation. Once you line it up, then on the other side, you slide the lock in place. Hope this make sense.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itcrashed;11988170*
> There shouldn't be a screw hole in the 700D. If you use the hole it will set it back about 1/4 inch like you have pictured. You are actually supposed to line the screw hole on the lamptron with the metal spring that has a little indentation. Once you line it up, then on the other side, you slide the lock in place. Hope this make sense.


The screw holes in-line with the screw-less latch system thing so even if I use the screw-less thing, its the same. Also the spring and the screw-less thing together are no were near strong enough to hold the controller in place anyway, so screws need to be used really.


----------



## Mixfloors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liselotte;11987924*
> Im planning on mounting my GPU rad at the back but not sure which tools to use. Thanks for the link!


This is my koolance external mount. Works really well, although with a bit of weight the thumb screws tend to just not tighten enough and the unit sags outwards.
I tightened them up and then used a ziptie around it to keep it tight on both sides.



















The spring loaded clamp that goes over the case mounted barbs works very well and feels secure, swiftechs plastic version just scares me a little, all that weight and a few screws in plastic, doesnt make me feel safe. I understand the whole downward preasure thing, but there is also lateral weight that worries me.


----------



## wermad

I've used these rad brackets/mounts from xspc with good results:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10347/ex-rad-179/XSPC_Radiator_Mounting_Bracket_Set_-_632_Thread.html?tl=g30c95s162

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6475/ex-rad-124/XSPC_Radiator_Mounting_Bracket_Set_-_M4_Thread.html?tl=g30c95s162


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11988995*
> I've used these rad brackets/mounts from xspc with good results:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10347/ex-rad-179/XSPC_Radiator_Mounting_Bracket_Set_-_632_Thread.html?tl=g30c95s162
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6475/ex-rad-124/XSPC_Radiator_Mounting_Bracket_Set_-_M4_Thread.html?tl=g30c95s162


that is what comes with the rasa kits.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11989006*
> that is what comes with the rasa kits.


yup, I had used these way before the rasa kits came out


----------



## SimpleTech

I think I'm ready for Sandy Bridge..


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;11989102*
> I think I'm ready for Sandy Bridge..


nice, what sort of clocks are you getting off h2o??


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;11989229*
> nice, what sort of clocks are you getting off h2o??


Haven't overclocked it yet, just put it together about an hour ago. Finished installing the OS and will spend the next hour or so with drivers and installing games.

Then I will overclock. Can't wait.


----------



## killerhz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;11989102*
> I think I'm ready for Sandy Bridge..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1
> 
> 1


can i just say...that is sexy. i want to leave my PC for yours


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerhz;11989292*
> can i just say...that is sexy. i want to leave my PC for yours


forever loyal to the i7!!!! j/k I'm totally going xeon in a week or so.


----------



## bluesky2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerhz;11989292*
> can i just say...that is sexy. i want to leave my PC for yours


That's amazing for sure.


----------



## killerhz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11989337*
> forever loyal to the i7!!!! j/k I'm totally going xeon in a week or so.


yes i do love me i7







for encoding? this is one nasty rig but may need an upgrade soon. just haven't been excited about anything i have seen as of late.

don't forget to post pics lol


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerhz;11989400*
> yes i do love me i7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for encoding? this is one nasty rig but may need an upgrade soon. just haven't been excited about anything i have seen as of late.
> 
> don't forget to post pics lol


1155 is just plain better (except for the 980x) unless you need the extra pci lanes for tri of 4 way sli. Going to do an sr-2 with dual e5620s. Plan to use the mips mobo block and get a 2nd ek supreme hf nickel for the other cpu as well as a 2nd mips ram cooler for the other sets of ram. Current mobo and cpu are becoming a htpc along with a 285 i have sitting around


----------



## CH4PZ

i'm just waiting on new coloured tubing/drain port and kill coil then i'll throw mine up, lovin some of these setups, keep em comn:thumb:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;11986013*
> you need to fill out what watercooling gear is in if you want to be in the club.


that was an old rule from when I first started this thread, I gave up on it fairly quickly when it became apparent that NO ONE reads rules


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;11989337*
> forever loyal to the i7!!!! j/k I'm totally going xeon in a week or so.


isn't the 1366 xeon basicly an i7 with more cache and such?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11989693*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that was an old rule from when I first started this thread, I gave up on it fairly quickly when it became apparent that NO ONE reads rules


There are rules


----------



## TheReciever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11989752*
> isn't the 1366 xeon basicly an i7 with more cache and such?


No, from what I have gathered they are higher binned i7's and have a higher probability of higher Overclock


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheReciever;11989814*
> No, from what I have gathered they are higher binned i7's and have a higher probability of higher Overclock


if they are higher binned i7's they are still i7's









so the answer should have been, yes, they are an i7 but binned higher.


----------



## SimpleTech

I had a Xeon W3520. It was awesome..

More pictures of my other setup using LEDs.













































Made them myself.










They look 10x better in person.


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## TheReciever

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


if they are higher binned i7's they are still i7's









so the answer should have been, yes, they are an i7 but binned higher.


yes however he was thinking they had more _*cache*_, which isnt the case.

At least not to my knowledge


----------



## ScurK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;11989693*
> NO ONE reads rules


Perhaps it is just me... I use so much time browsing this thread and drooling over the setups, I probably know the rules better than you...


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubema;11327172*
> Hi, Actually i am cooling CPU, NB and 1 GPU, and yes the fan is for my x stock Gigabyte Block. But it has been changed to RASA instead.
> 
> I am in a process of changing all my Gigabyte 3D mercury cooling kit and i already did, but still waiting my new Swiftech 655, and then i will be ready with my new MODDED RESERVOIR to fix the 2nd loop.
> 
> I will be posting a new pictures for every thing i made as soon as i am done!
> 
> This is my Old stock Gigabyte Block (I just get rid of it)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new Rasa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And its ready to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New pictures in the way


why is it insulated??? you have a slush box your not sharing


----------



## mbudden

I would assume someone is leak testing.


----------



## Onions

kinda overkill dont you think??


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;11994458*
> kinda overkill dont you think??


no such thing


----------



## Onions

lol is it just paper towels cause first time i looked it htought it was the insullating stuff ln2 users use


----------



## sgilmore62

Changed out my water with new distilled water and shortened the tubing to CPU. Had some residual green ethylene glycol that was tinging my res green. Must have been some ethylene glycol left in rad or CPU block.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Wow my internet has been killed.


----------



## mbudden

.... Seriously? That took forever to load.


----------



## thrasherht

Wow, I am on a T3 line and that just murdered my laptop.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11996809*
> Changed out my water with new distilled water and shortened the tubing to CPU. Had some residual green ethylene glycol that was tinging my res green. Must have been some ethylene glycol left in rad or CPU block.
> 
> ]


Can you please for the love of all that is holy resize your pictures.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11998184*
> .... Seriously? That took forever to load.


Was it worth the wait? lol, yeah, should resize to 1024x768.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11998418*
> Was it worth the wait? lol, yeah, should resize to 1024x768.


I mean, amazing detail. But holy hell.... Took almost a minute to actually load.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11894258*
> an ocn member is selling a used enzo saphire:
> http://www.overclock.net/cooling-products/903061-fs-enzotech-sapphire-cpu-block-25-a.html
> 
> hit the fs threads, there's is lots of water cooling stuff avail for cheap (most cases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


he already sold it.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11998426*
> I mean, amazing detail. But holy hell.... Took almost a minute to actually load.


I'm just glad I looked at it at work and not at home, I only have a 1.5M connection.


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Wow, I am on a T3 line and that just murdered my laptop.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


.... Seriously? That took forever to load.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Wow my internet has been killed.


These made me lol


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

swapped out my exhaust fans for faster ones since there was a ton of hot air lingering in the case. Also did some wire management.


----------



## ttaylor0024

^Sick res man!


----------



## CookieSayWhat

It lower temps at all?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*


It lower temps at all?


in case temps lowered about 5C and 1C load difference on the cpu


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


swapped out my exhaust fans for faster ones since there was a ton of hot air lingering in the case. Also did some wire management.




oh did i mention that i want to cry everytime i see ur creation, its beautiful


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


swapped out my exhaust fans for faster ones since there was a ton of hot air lingering in the case. Also did some wire management.




tis a nice build, I do miss my MM case a bit. Are you going w/ the Extended Ascension or the LD V8 or something else for your SR-2 build?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Should I drain my loop for my move? I don't have my pump for my new setup and the drive is only 10 minutes away.


----------



## kingofyo1

i wouldnt, just drive carefully ^^ no bumps


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


tis a nice build, I do miss my MM case a bit. Are you going w/ the Extended Ascension or the LD V8 or something else for your SR-2 build?


I'm sticking with the same case. I'll be adding a pedestal to the bottom along with 2 more sr-1 360s and another 355 w/ xspc pumptop run in serial with my current 355. Only have a $1700 budget right now for upgrades so it will just make it since rad grills are $85 each and I need a new psu. It helps that I already have all of the fans I need along with the wiring. I love this case. So much better than my lian li p80 and stacker 830 despite no cable management. Just takes time to organize wires.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


oh did i mention that i want to cry everytime i see ur creation, its beautiful


Thank you lol. I guess that's the goal. Hopefully everyone likes it that much at Lanwar this weekend.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


i wouldnt, just drive carefully ^^ no bumps










There aren't many bumps other than the two in my apartment complex I am leaving from. I might put the seats up and seatbelt it in


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


in case temps lowered about 5C and 1C load difference on the cpu


For a simple fan fix that's pretty big.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


swapped out my exhaust fans for faster ones since there was a ton of hot air lingering in the case. Also did some wire management.




that looks mad man, the pcie leads look like a sleeved waterfall, and im lovn the helix res, very hot


----------



## halukkilic

Hi everyone, here my baby


----------



## mbudden

god i puked in my mouth.

jk that is amazing.


----------



## brl3git

Let me go get some more tissues brb.


----------



## slytown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;11988110*
> Few people knew I was going a little more green, well here's the latest, not complete but I'm happy with this stage.
> 
> The 24Pin sleeving will be sorted and cables such as fan and USB cables are still to be sleeved, when I've got time.
> 
> So here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Photo's are resized, dont think many people want to be loading just over 23mb of images.
> 
> Anyone got an idea why the Lamptron FC6 fan controller doesnt want to fit in the front of my 700D correctly? As seen in the first and second photo, its sitting back in the case, although I'm using the only screw whole in the FC6 and on the 700D, my old Zalman fitted just fine.


Gorgeous dude. I should get green cathodes for a case again.


----------



## alancsalt

Positively Smithsonian


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halukkilic;12007085*
> Hi everyone, here my baby


White sleeving and white tubing always looks awesome in the 800D and yours is as good as any I have seen. Did you do the sleeving yourself or are they extensions? The single white fan is a nice touch also, for some reason the fittings on the GPU seems excessive but still an overall amazing look.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12007268*
> White sleeving and white tubing always looks awesome in the 800D and yours is as good as any I have seen. Did you do the sleeving yourself or are they extensions? The single white fan is a nice touch also, for some reason the fittings on the GPU seems excessive but still an overall amazing look.


It looks like it is actually sleeved and not extensions as the power/reset misc cables and Sata are sleeved. Either way it looks great!


----------



## bundymania

I´ve got 2 new rads, very good overall build quality


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12004471*
> Should I drain my loop for my move? I don't have my pump for my new setup and the drive is only 10 minutes away.


I never drain mine and my drive is 3 hours each way to and from school and home. I just put it in classy in the box my case came in and lay it flat in my trunk. (the case is actually so huge it will not fit anywhere else in my car)


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12004471*
> Should I drain my loop for my move? I don't have my pump for my new setup and the drive is only 10 minutes away.


Don't drain it, just make sure everything is tight. I just toss mine in my covered truck bed. The feet keep it in place since the bed is carpeted. I've never had it leak from that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12004902*
> that looks mad man, the pcie leads look like a sleeved waterfall, and im lovn the helix res, very hot:devil:


Thanks. didn't even notice it looks like a waterfall. hmm... maybe I should resleeve and do it in blue and white like water. Still have a little to clean up tho. Next time I post there will be sound dampening all over the inside. Just waiting for it to arrive. Should clean it up a good bit.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halukkilic;12007085*
> Hi everyone, here my baby


Sweet mother of god!!! that makes my pants feel funny think im in love


----------



## CH4PZ

also it would be pretty simple to mount that rad internally, if you dont mind sacrificing two drive bays(noticed they were empty anyway)


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12007405*
> I´ve got 2 new rads, very good overall build quality


lol, I haven't been here long but you have access to some dope gear.....


----------



## AdvanSuper

I thought you didn't want to lay it flat if there was liquid in it during transportation?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12009027*
> I thought you didn't want to lay it flat if there was liquid in it during transportation?


haha, sealed loop, what does it matter? if that was the case there would be some serious issues with tech bench loops...


----------



## AdvanSuper

Imma scurred. Besides I couldn't do that anyway since I have to pack my whole hatch up with everything.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12009285*
> Imma scurred. Besides I couldn't do that anyway since I have to pack my whole hatch up with everything.


I would just seatbelt mine in if it fit in the cab of the car.


----------



## Lost-boi

Its a sealed system, you will be fine.
I always buckle my case in, in the back seat of my car.

I dont buckle it for the cases safety but for mine. Having a HAF932 hit me would ruin my day.


----------



## TheReciever

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lost-boi*


Its a sealed system, you will be fine.
I always buckle my case in, in the back seat of my car.

I dont buckle it for the cases safety but for mine. Having a HAF932 hit me would ruin my day.


I loled


----------



## fenderlove0`

Don't worry bout it, I laid mine sideways and have carted it every where nothing could possibly happen as long as its a closed loop.


----------



## ScurK

If your loop doesn't leak, what should be the problem?


----------



## wermad

as long as your not driving through a rally course, just buckle the sucker in and hit the road


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheReciever*


I loled


I know it prob sounds ridiculously serious, but buckle it in. I used to know a guy who was carrying a gas bottle unsecured on his back seat on the day he got hit head on by a guy crossing over from his side - maybe went to sleep who knows? Anyway it wasn't the head on that killed the guy I used to know - it was the flying gas bottle caving in the back of his head.

So really, buckle that pc up in the car....


----------



## mbudden

He's not lying. There is freak accidents like that where ish flys from the backseat and can impact you. Newton's Law of Motion comes into play.


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *halukkilic*


Hi everyone, here my baby










wish the rad was internal but regardless, very well done

what model lamptron is that? looks great in front of 800d


----------



## AdvanSuper

Transportation was a success. I used a huge luggage bag full of clothes to press it up against the back seat in the hatch lol.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Transportation was a success. I used a huge luggage bag full of clothes to press it up against the back seat in the hatch lol.


lol i take my rig to a lan party every weekend, just sitting upright in the backseat


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


wish the rad was internal but regardless, very well done

what model lamptron is that? looks great in front of 800d


Yeah he should have cut the top for a 480, oh well.

He's using a Lamptron Touch for the controller.


----------



## Qcgold

Soon my friends. Soon.


----------



## jp27

wheres your case?!?!


----------



## Qcgold

In the process of modding it so I can fit my rig in it. Also im still waiting for fittings to be delivered. Hence the soon


----------



## AMOCO

heck,i'm not taking mine apart til my mobo waterblock gets here next friday.


----------



## Soggysilicon

I wanna play too!










Lots of pictures and little descriptions as I went along in meh siggy sig!


----------



## SwishaMane

Looks nice, lots of tube tho







Bet its heavy, lol


----------



## Soggysilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;12027593*
> Looks nice, lots of tube tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bet its heavy, lol


LOLS!

Very! Not to mention the case is steel... I broke a sweat more than once moving it around...


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

soooo muuuch tuuuuubing







where does it all go? can't you just connect the 2 gpus with a sli bridge? If you're concerned about weight you could always put casters on it or just buy a small dolly from bed bath and beyond or something for cheap to move it.


----------



## Soggysilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12027640*
> soooo muuuch tuuuuubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where does it all go? can't you just connect the 2 gpus with a sli bridge? If you're concerned about weight you could always put casters on it or just buy a small dolly from bed bath and beyond or something for cheap to move it.


hehe funny... but how do you mean where does it all go? I decided to go with some Y adapters for the video, for a parallel setup, and notice the fillport on the xspc has a little fitting instead of the stock plastic cap, that leads out of the case to a fill port above the rad outside the case... makes for easy bleeding.
Puts the fill physically above the bleeder screw on the top of the rad plenum.

The setup gives the system a very slight positive pressure.

One would think flow would be compromised but there are no real angles in the tubing so nope, temps are great, flow is great, pump rpms are great... no real complaints... it is 20 lbs of **** in a 10lbs bag though...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12027640*
> soooo muuuch tuuuuubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where does it all go? can't you just connect the 2 gpus with a sli bridge? If you're concerned about weight you could always put casters on it or just buy a small dolly from bed bath and beyond or something for cheap to move it.


using vga supreme, no ek bridge available for that









The tube setup is mind-boggling, lol, nice job though kinda bakes your noodle trying to figure it out by that pic alone


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soggysilicon;12027722*
> hehe funny... but how do you mean where does it all go? *I decided to go with some Y adapters for the video, for a parallel setup*, and notice the fillport on the xspc has a little fitting instead of the stock plastic cap, that leads out of the case to a fill port above the rad outside the case... makes for easy bleeding.
> Puts the fill physically above the bleeder screw on the top of the rad plenum.
> 
> The setup gives the system a very slight positive pressure.
> 
> One would think flow would be compromised but there are no real angles in the tubing so nope, temps are great, flow is great, pump rpms are great... no real complaints... it is 20 lbs of **** in a 10lbs bag though...


now it makes sense! I was wondering if you had it setup as gpu1->rad->gpu2. Glad flow is great. You don't have much restriction so I don't see why you wouldn't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12027775*
> using vga supreme, no ek bridge available for that


now that I look at it closer I see what you're talking about


----------



## Soggysilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12027800*
> now it makes sense! I was wondering if you had it setup as gpu1->rad->gpu2. Glad flow is great. You don't have much restriction so I don't see why you wouldn't. You could also run parallel with sli fittings, just need to use 2 of them. I used them in my setup. Can check out in sig. They all perform with in 1c of each other which is negligible. It should also help flow rates by a small small small bit since the longer the loop is the more restriction it has.


Of course your absolutely right, what I was going for was the same concept in circuit analysis, in that in a Y or parallel setup, resistance is cut in half across the section of circuit, unlike in series where resistances are added. Sure flow is also (nearly linearly cut as well at this point) but the EK VGA blocks are High resistance/low flow turbulence blocks, and are really really effective.

The Y adapter, like martin had stated, getting close to his Whye, was significantly more slippery than many other types of fittings...

Sadly, length is a by product of tube bending, The only way to make some of the angles was to follow the natural curve of the tube and induce a slight twist to keep it self stiffening.

Notice at the pump the zip tie trick to get the outlet port to make a gentle 90 degree bend, thats cause the NZXT phantom case has 2x 120 mm fans right at that height... also had to mode the case and put the 200mm fan on the outside, just too much consumption of internal space in its natural habitat!


----------



## hy897t

When I move my rig I stand it up and buckle it in. Using this method I move my system completely filled with both blocks, and both rads


----------



## adamlau

Far from complete (parts incoming), here is how my setup stands right now...
I prefer external res/pump and rads in order to keep them as close to ambient as possible...
Drawback is additional tubing, but I have another MCP35X waiting in the wings...


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamlau;12027914*
> Far from complete (parts incoming), here is how my setup stands right now...
> I prefer external res/pump and rads and to keep them as close to ambient as possible...


nice work man, thats a nice psu too, looks like it would be perfect for a nice sleeve job to complete the beautifull


----------



## Soggysilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamlau;12027914*
> Far from complete (parts incoming), here is how my setup stands right now...
> I prefer external res/pump and rads in order to keep them as close to ambient as possible...
> Drawback is additional tubing, but I have another MCP35X waiting in the wings...


Really nice setup man!


----------



## wermad

Finally some progress after taking some power tools to the case, I have yet to plumb the 240 but the loop is cut to the setup I wanted


----------



## ElectrixPC

heres my updated one..


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectrixPC;12029941*
> heres my updated one..


Noice.


----------



## ElectrixPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12029953*
> Like this?


Yup, just changed the motherboard..


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## bundymania

GB EX 58 / UD 7


----------



## micul

here is mine . It is not finished. I am thinking to put the video card to in the loop.


----------



## Jelah

Yo guys, i've got the blank plate for my EK HF and am able to get it cut into anything I want, was wondering if anyone has any layouts that are any better than the pre cut ones?


----------



## bundymania

... available at aquatuning.us


----------



## Zamoldac

Are you by any chance using AntiCorro in this loop? I am asking because I've just started using it and my water turned slightly whiteish just like in that picture.

I talking about http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...luid-50ml.html.


----------



## bundymania

IÂ´m using Innovatek Protect over many years. What you see on that pic is my teststation, where i use 50+ different parts so far for testing and not all parts are 100% clean, so itÂ´s no wonder, that the tubing is looking like this after excessive testing for over 1 1/2 years with same tubing


----------



## Zamoldac

I hope my loop will clear up, the whiteish tint is only visible in the reservoir, the tubing remains clear







so probably nothing to worry.

Oh and btw, Aquatuning FTW







.


----------



## bundymania

Did you clean the radiator and all other components, before using it ?


----------



## DevilGear44

Finally got all the plumbing done. But of course with my luck the Lamptron cathode inverter I got is defective, and I suck majorly at Indigo Xtreme installation/reflow or whatever, so I'm gonna have to clean it up and use MX-4 for the time being.







I also ran out of nice small black zip-ties, so I have to use ugly florescent ones temporarily. I am most definitely happy with the GPU block however; my 480 idles at 35 and loads at about 45 with no fans turned on the radiator at all. And with a small piece of foam between the pump and the case, there is little vibration and I was shocked how quiet it is once it starts going.


























































And now I finally understand every water cooler's qualms about bleeding a loop. It took me and my brother about 45 minutes of filling and shaking everything around to get her air-free and full of water.


----------



## SKI_VT

Goodluck trying to get that indigo off..

I had to do it twice and now im lapping my waterblock, to pay the price for using indigo..


----------



## AdvanSuper

I don't think it's worth using if you're already water cooling your rig. Just use a higher grade TIM and call it a day.


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Goodluck trying to get that indigo off..

I had to do it twice and now im lapping my waterblock, to pay the price for using indigo..


I hear ya. I didn't find out until last night that my water block was "incompatible" with Indigo because of the gold plating. Oh well. I have one more application left; I think I'll just keep that in storage until further notice.


----------



## mbudden

I thought you had to have your MoBo vertical for it to flow properly?


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Did you clean the radiator and all other components, before using it ?


Yup cleaned everything, but used distilled only for ~1month am probably some nasties were born and killed today when I added the AntiCorro fluid, anyway the tint is barely visible now probably wasn't properly diluted or smth, will leave it alone for now.


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I thought you had to have your MoBo vertical for it to flow properly?


Nope, "orient the computer such that the CPU and motherboard are in a horizontal position"


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*


Nope, "orient the computer such that the CPU and motherboard are in a horizontal position"


lol, did he say vertical??
If you did that you would have seen the metal Tim flow on to your graphics card









Anyways I was using a gold Plated Block too!!
And the Temps were terrrible so i just decided to take it off and use the Trusty Shin Etsu!


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


lol, did he say vertical??
If you did that you would have seen the metal Tim flow on to your graphics card









Anyways I was using a gold Plated Block too!!
And the Temps were terrrible so i just decided to take it off and use the Trusty Shin Etsu!


I thought I did everything right, turned on the computer, everything was going perfectly, CPU was idling at 50-60*, turned on Prime, and the CPU went to 97-99*... and stayed there...and stayed there...and stayed there...and stayed there...after 10 minutes I said eff this.

btw with your gold block, was the Indigo completely fuse with the bottom of it when you took it off? How long was the Indigo on before you removed the block?


----------



## AdvanSuper

And here I thought I was one of the few with a gold block







.

We should start a EK Supreme HF Gold club


----------



## mbudden

My bizzle. Most of the videos I have seen people do it. They left their mobo in the case.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*


I thought I did everything right, turned on the computer, everything was going perfectly, CPU was idling at 50-60*, turned on Prime, and the CPU went to 97-99*... and stayed there...and stayed there...and stayed there...and stayed there...after 10 minutes I said eff this.

btw with your gold block, was the Indigo completely fuse with the bottom of it when you took it off? How long was the Indigo on before you removed the block?


Really mine installed normally, 
It from 50-60 then to 99-100 then gradually started going back down to about 60...
And i was like SCORE!

but yea it was bad, it fused to the gold and stained my Cpu's HSF, 
after i started lapping it i discovered that the block we have is a Solid Copper Block with a Nickel Plating over it, Then a Gold or fake gold Plating over that!
So theres 3 layers i had to lap down which is still a big pain in my booty since im not done yet..


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


And here I thought I was one of the few with a gold block







.

We should start a EK Supreme HF Gold club










Suprisingly enough the gold version isn't that rare around here, I've seen it in at least a dozen sigs.

Quote:



but yea it was bad, it fused to the gold and stained my Cpu's HSF, 
after i started lapping it i discovered that the block we have is a Solid Copper Block with a Nickel Plating over it, Then a Gold or fake gold Plating over that!
So theres 3 layers i had to lap down which is still a big pain in my booty since im not done yet..


how long was it between the application and the removal? I'm wondering if this thing happens as soon as the gold touches the IX or if you were using it for weeks/months.

Also, in a glass-half-full scenario, maybe lapping the block with conventional tim will be way better than unlapped with Indigo Xtreme.


----------



## SKI_VT

Lets Start a Club! 
I call Dictator!
You guys can be president or something ...


----------



## ErBall

I've put my pictures on this thread like 3 times now, and still have not been added to the OP list. I suppose I shall try again.

Here is my setup; the temps are laughably good. 2600k @ 4.00ghz I load around 48c on the hottest cores and the gpu @ 825 core loads around 40c. I'm pretty damn pleased with the setup. Better pics will be coming shortly.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *erball*


i've put my pictures on this thread like 3 times now, and still have not been added to the op list. I suppose i shall try again.

Here is my setup; the temps are laughably good. 2600k @ 4.00ghz i load around 48c on the hottest cores and the gpu @ 825 core loads around 40c. I'm pretty damn pleased with the setup. Better pics will be coming shortly.











updated.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


I've put my pictures on this thread like 3 times now, and still have not been added to the OP list. I suppose I shall try again.


you most certainly were added to the list, you are number 591. ;-)

added your new post though


----------



## ErBall

Well don't I feel a bit silly. Thanks guys.


----------



## TheReciever

Just got it up and running a couple of days ago, Loving it though its far from complete


----------



## mbudden

Cable management is due.


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


Lets Start a Club! 
I call Dictator!
You guys can be president or something ...


Well, who had theirs first? I had my block in storage since I got it at the end of June last year.









Finally replaced the TIM... the *!#&$^@ Indigo Xtreme didn't spread barely at all, front and bottom covers were off but nothing. I had to scrape the crap off my CPU with a razor and even after several alcohol swabbings there was still a residual IX horseshoe on the CPU. Luckily nothing was stuck or gunked to the CPU block. It was also incredibly excruciating to remove the block in such limited space; my thumbs and fingers are so raw and numb. 
>.<

Learned my lesson though, thermal paste from now on. For the same price as IX, you can get something that works 1.5* worse for the 25 or so times you feel like applying it.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*


Well, who had theirs first? I had my block in storage since I got it at the end of June last year.









Finally replaced the TIM... the *!#&$^@ Indigo Xtreme didn't spread barely at all, front and bottom covers were off but nothing. I had to scrape the crap off my CPU with a razor and even after several alcohol swabbings there was still a residual IX horseshoe on the CPU. Luckily nothing was stuck or gunked to the CPU block. It was also incredibly excruciating to remove the block in such limited space; my thumbs and fingers are so raw and numb. 
>.<

Learned my lesson though, thermal paste from now on. For the same price as IX, you can get something that works 1.5* worse for the 25 or so times you feel like applying it.


I got mine in February!








Im still Dictator









And see i told you, you would hate taking it off..
Your lucky you didn't leave it on for a long long time like i did...
I had to go through 5 razors the first time around, the second time i wasn't so lucky...


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


I got mine in February!








Im still Dictator










Yes master.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


And see i told you, you would hate taking it off..
Your lucky you didn't leave it on for a long long time like i did...
I had to go through 5 razors the first time around, the second time i wasn't so lucky...


Well at least I got it. Maybe with your lapping you'll get awesome temps? I also wonder that since the block has 3 layers/2 layers of plating, if it cools noticeably worse than full copper or nickel-plated versions?


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*


Yes master.

Well at least I got it. Maybe with your lapping you'll get awesome temps? I also wonder that since the block has 3 layers/2 layers of plating, if it cools noticeably worse than full copper or nickel-plated versions?


Maybe but i don't have a baseline to test against since i've only used indigo for the Block :/


----------



## KOBALT

no double post for me.... here it is. Quad & dual rad's....

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...loop-pics.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KOBALT*


no double post for me.... here it is. Quad & dual rad's....

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...loop-pics.html


hey man, looks good, but please make a post in this thread with the pics, i try to avoid external links.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKI_VT*


That doesn't Count!










hey man, I appreciate that you enjoy the thread, but can you leave the rules to me? It makes things cleaner and clutters the thread less if it is just one person keeping track of stuff.


----------



## RussianJ

Went from stock air to 212+ p/p to WC in all of 3 months lol.

























For some reason the shot of the inside got turned. Moving the pump tonight, don't like the gravity feed there.

keeping my 965 @ 4.2 now. 1.408 Vcore still, 32 idle, 46 load

Need to buy compression fittings, drop of water here and there, patched up with zip-ties lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;12043729*
> I've put my pictures on this thread like 3 times now, and still have not been added to the OP list. I suppose I shall try again.
> 
> Here is my setup; the temps are laughably good. 2600k @ 4.00ghz I load around 48c on the hottest cores and the gpu @ 825 core loads around 40c. I'm pretty damn pleased with the setup. Better pics will be coming shortly.


OoOooOooOoO, H2O Sandybridge, thought you'd definately get more than 4ghz outta it


----------



## Oli4v

"New" Case, Lian Li V2000








+- finished


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oli4v;12046514*
> "New" Case, Lian Li V2000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +- finished


looks great man, but is there a reason you have all the hottest components in the same loop and all the cooler components in the other? seems a bit off balance to me...

edit:

YAY!!! OCN IS BACK UP!!!! I was so sad for the last hour :-(


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12046558*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great man, but is there a reason you have all the hottest components in the same loop and all the cooler components in the other? seems a bit off balance to me...
> 
> edit:
> 
> YAY!!! OCN IS BACK UP!!!! I was so sad for the last hour :-(


It was down?


----------



## DevilGear44

Yes. And what a lonely and depressing hour it was.


----------



## RussianJ

Mhm. Keep hitting refresh on my iPhone. Was in withdraws..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdawg33;12046634*
> It was down?


yep, they where rebuilding the index for the search function so that it would work again.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Add please... My very first WC attempt. have some things to take care of yet (fans, tubing, etc.) yet but it is working!


----------



## thrasherht

Ok guys, question for you.
I know a bit about what to look for in a fan, but i want to know what you guys think.

I am looking to replace the fans on my RS360 rad. What fans would be good? noise is not an issue because I have a fan controller.


----------



## fenderlove0`

My new build:
please add me


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oli4v;12046514*
> "New" Case, Lian Li V2000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +- finished


DAAYUMMM! that looks nice, but almost had to double take, i thought the photo's were upside down:applaud:


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`;12047407*
> My new build:
> please add me


another gorgeous rig, although that horizontal pipe tied up with string would annoy me, i would spin the top rad 180 degrees, but other than that, hot, hot, hot:devil:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey, please do not quote so many pictures, if you want to quote a post with lots of pics, delete the pics out or leave just one. also, use the multi-quote instead of double posting please.


----------



## ShortySmalls

fender and oli awsome looking rigs.. wish i could get mine to look that amazing


----------



## gdawg33

Over 7000 posts!!!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdawg33;12048594*
> Over 7000 posts!!!


BUT NOT OVER 9000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdawg33;12048594*
> Over 7000 posts!!!


over 1,000,000 views, over 7000 posts, over 800 different people have made posts, over 600 of which joined the club, I personally have made over 1000 posts in this thread alone, followed by wermad with nearly 250 posts and bundymania with just over 200

all in just under 15 months...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12048748*
> over 1,000,000 views, over 7000 posts, over 800 different people have made posts, over 600 of which joined the club, i personally have made over 1000 posts in this thread alone, followed by wermad with nearly 250 posts and bundymania with just over 200
> 
> all in just under 15 months...
> 
> :d


epic.


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12048748*
> over 1,000,000 views, over 7000 posts, over 800 different people have made posts, over 600 of which joined the club, I personally have made over 1000 posts in this thread alone, followed by wermad with nearly 250 posts and bundymania with just over 200
> 
> all in just under 15 months...


Let's make a bet to when we hit over 9000 posts. My guess is 2 months.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

so who wants to go through and count how many times I have used the word "updated"?


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12047826*
> another gorgeous rig, although that horizontal pipe tied up with string would annoy me, i would spin the top rad 180 degrees, but other than that, hot, hot, hot:devil:


thanks for the advice







I dont like the string thing either but without it I promise it looks worse... hangs down. But this was my first build and I did my very best and think it turned out good







plus I am 17 with limited resources lol.


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12047921*
> fender and oli awsome looking rigs.. wish i could get mine to look that amazing


with time and a little brainstorming you can. Just gotta match up colors and make the build look clean.


----------



## DevilGear44

I was trying to make this build as conservative as possible but so far with all the speed bumps has been a perfect disaster. So here is my MacGyvered fan controller! It's a Sidewinders rheostat attached to a gutted fan/filter, zip-tied to the stock stand for my D5 (unused because of EK top).

It gets the job done for the time being, but even at lowest setting these high speed yates are a little on the audible side, but I wanted the extra leg room.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

HAHAHA!!! awesome


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12049575*
> HAHAHA!!! awesome


It's completely temporary until I can get my head and wallet straight and figure out what I'm gonna do with this build as far as the DOA cathode inverter and fan control are concerned. And by temporary I mean my rig is probably gonna look like that for months.









Unless anyone knows of a good *external* fan controller/hub.


----------



## MRHANDS

After my old clear tubes started turning green, I re-did the loop with some black tubes. The HDD tray was removed to allow more space at the bottom as before it was quite a bit cramped. Because of that, all the wires were now visible. So I cut up a piece of black foam board and crammed it in there.

Next up, Paint case interior black and get a res top or pump/res drive bay for less clutter.


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Fancy


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12047850*
> hey, please do not quote so many pictures, if you want to quote a post with lots of pics, delete the pics out or leave just one. also, use the multi-quote instead of double posting please.


no worries, i'll change it now


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12049768*


you just like using that image dont you


----------



## Timechange01




----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


you just like using that image dont you










haha, alancsalt made it for me and i have the php code on a sticky note on my desktop so that i just have to copy and paste it into the response box.

I figure why not use it? it is more entertaining than the simple text









edit:

oh hey, cross post. in that case:


----------



## fenderlove0`

TimeChange01 that looks amazing... I love that so much.


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`;12050291*
> TimeChange01 that looks amazing... I love that so much.


Thanks mate! Im very glad you like it









Im ordering a new motherboard tomorrow so I will have some new pics of my rig at the end of the week.

-Cheers


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timechange01*


Thanks mate! Im very glad you like it









Im ordering a new motherboard tomorrow so I will have some new pics of my rig at the end of the week.

-Cheers










sweet just finished mine, on a few or couple pages back but i am pretty much set at where it is at


----------



## Timechange01

I just saw your post on this thread, very awesome rig mate. Also, you have the motherboard Im ordering! lol

How are you liking it so far?


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timechange01;12050350*
> I just saw your post on this thread, very awesome rig mate. Also, you have the motherboard Im ordering! lol
> 
> How are you liking it so far?


It's awesome, great and easy over clocking, great stability. Plus it looks awesome to







. With your system I think it'll look cool, it seems to match mine pretty good. You won't regret it, also lots of good diagnostic features to help you detect issues.


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`;12050536*
> It's awesome, great and easy over clocking, great stability. Plus it looks awesome to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . With your system I think it'll look cool, it seems to match mine pretty good. You won't regret it, also lots of good diagnostic features to help you detect issues.


Awesome, cant wait







Ive been reading so many nice things about that board. Does the NB get hot? On my current motherboard, my NB idles at 81C in BIOS... even with a scythe 40mm NB fan blowing at full speed


----------



## alancsalt

You guys post too fast. By the time I get through other posts I'm always behind. DOH!


----------



## fastsite

This is my backup rig, I just got the CPU block from the market place.
Yes, those are Thermaltake gpu blocks and I have to say they work great!
All this is cooled via a 5 foot bong.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Finally finished after a long day... Will post up pics soon.


----------



## bobfig

Small update. i upgraded my cpu, motherboard, and ram but nothing other then bracket switch on the cpu block but here it is. its kinda a mess but i don't feel like messing with it any further as i may be getting a new case in the foreseeable future.


----------



## Jelah

Finally got the rig running again




































I think its time for a new camera.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fastsite;12050678*
> This is my backup rig, I just got the CPU block from the market place.
> Yes, those are Thermaltake gpu blocks and I have to say they work great!
> All this is cooled via a 5 foot bong.


Nice. Pics of ya bong? Heh
and how's temps on it? Tempted to make one for the he'll of it


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timechange01;12050237*


OMG!!







i think im in love:drool:


----------



## AdvanSuper

Moar here

http://www.overclock.net/intel-build-logs/916909-green-money-gold-honeys.html#post12051816


----------



## koven

ek backplates are so nice


----------



## AdvanSuper

Not anymore... I got a few paint chips during install and I was really pissed about it.


----------



## bundymania

Nickel Plating Job from EK Backplates could be better sometimes


----------



## sunnyville

that's one beautiful cooler! Is that for the standard 5870 or for the non-referencedesign version that came later? I've got the original 5870 and was looking to get another one, but can't find any covers!


----------



## bundymania

You can use this Koolance Block both for 5850 and 5870 cards in reference design


----------



## mhaneline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12052291*
> Nickel Plating Job from EK Backplates could be better sometimes


*all* EK Nickel plating could be better sometimes


----------



## sunnyville

thanks!


----------



## kevingreenbmx




----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12052360*
> You can use this Koolance Block both for 5850 and 5870 cards in reference design


Two things, in your post above, what card is the first waterblock for? And your images say 2010 in the bottom corner, its no longer 2010!







Although if they were taken in 2010, that would make sense.


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12051568*
> OMG!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think im in love:drool:


Thank you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12052128*
> Not anymore... I got a few paint chips during install and I was really pissed about it.


They do look very awesome. Would i be able to put one on a Hydro Copper GTX 480? I was thinking of getting a black one


----------



## Oli4v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12046558*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great man, but is there a reason you have all the hottest components in the same loop and all the cooler components in the other? seems a bit off balance to me...
> 
> edit:
> 
> YAY!!! OCN IS BACK UP!!!! I was so sad for the last hour :-(


Yes it's a bit "abnormal", but temps are just more than fine, since there's a PA120.4 cooling al that load wit 7 fans on it, 8 didn't work icm with my aquaero ..







, and you can't really say that HD5850's, a [email protected] with a P45 chipset are very hot components


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12052360*
> You can use this Koolance Block both for 5850 and 5870 cards in reference design


bundymania, can I use this Koolance block with this 5870? Is this card considered a reference design?

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5256799


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331;12056687*
> bundymania, can I use this Koolance block with this 5870? Is this card considered a reference design?
> 
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5256799


Yup that's a reference 5870. You can tell by the AMD logo near the PCIe pins and the HSF.


----------



## sgilmore62

Are any ATI 5000 series cards with backplate reference or just the Sapphire ones?


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;12056882*
> Yup that's a reference 5870. You can tell by the AMD logo near the PCIe pins and the HSF.


Right on man, thanks! Checked out the Koolance site, and the 5870 blocks are $70. Not too bad a price?


----------



## thrasherht

I am sad nobody answered my question.









*feels left out*


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Full setup









These pictures are getting old, I have done a few things to the system and have plans to go to a CPU block(no more H50) very soon, hoping this weekend I get all my parts together


----------



## Outcasst




----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12057409*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures are getting old, I have done a few things to the system and have plans to go to a CPU block(no more H50) very soon, hoping this weekend I get all my parts together


Yep you just killed my laptop with all those pictures. lol.

Isn't everybody glad i didn't quote the entire post.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12057469*
> Yep you just killed my laptop with all those pictures. lol.
> 
> Isn't everybody glad i didn't quote the entire post.


I will be sure and post more once I get the rest of the system put together


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12057516*
> I will be sure and post more once I get the rest of the system put together


I totally just noticed in the last picture you have a thinkpad x200, is it a tablet or regular?

I am on an x200 tablet.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12057177*
> I am sad nobody answered my question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *feels left out*


What question?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;12057542*
> What question?


I asked about fans for my rad, i know what to look for in fans, but i really just wanted the community opinion on some good fans for my RS360. noise isn't an issue because i have a fan controller. but i don't want to spend a lot.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12057532*
> I totally just noticed in the last picture you have a thinkpad x200, is it a tablet or regular?
> 
> I am on an x200 tablet.


Sorry it is a x60, see sig, regular, great laptop, best I have ever owned.

I would like more info on a Bitspower EVGA x58 Black Freezer MOS EI58DP Water block for my Vreg.

I am trying to get the temps down a little, while gaming etc it gets to 85c


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12057571*
> I asked about fans for my rad, i know what to look for in fans, but i really just wanted the community opinion on some good fans for my RS360. noise isn't an issue because i have a fan controller. but i don't want to spend a lot.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_403&products_id=1227

i have a pare of these on my GTX240 without a problem. there not that loude even at 100%. if you want faster there are these also:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_403&products_id=3142

jsut remember to watch for the wattage on a fan controller so you don't burn it out.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12057571*
> I asked about fans for my rad, i know what to look for in fans, but i really just wanted the community opinion on some good fans for my RS360. noise isn't an issue because i have a fan controller. but i don't want to spend a lot.


Do you have a budget? Genlte Typhoon AP-14 or AP-15 are very good, with excellent CFM and low noise. I'm using Coolermaster R4 with blue LED, but that's because those are the best that I can find in my local store.


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12057571*
> I asked about fans for my rad, i know what to look for in fans, but i really just wanted the community opinion on some good fans for my RS360. noise isn't an issue because i have a fan controller. but i don't want to spend a lot.


I always suggest GTs if you have the cash, yate loons if you're on a budget.


----------



## Jelah

Need some opinions, ram blocks, or just some ram fans like this: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=36390&vpn=CMXAF2&manufacture=Corsair

Any suggestions for CORSAIR XMS3?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jelah;12057641*
> Need some opinions, ram blocks, or just some ram fans like this: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=36390&vpn=CMXAF2&manufacture=Corsair
> 
> Any suggestions for CORSAIR XMS3?


I run the Artic cooling RAM cooler, I still don't see the point in Watercooling the RAM


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jelah;12057641*
> Need some opinions, ram blocks, or just some ram fans like this: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=36390&vpn=CMXAF2&manufacture=Corsair
> 
> Any suggestions for CORSAIR XMS3?


Why don't go with a RAM fan cooler? You have WC so, you have enough space to fit one of those in your rig.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;12057709*
> Why don't go with a RAM fan cooler? You have WC so, you have enough space to fit one of those in your rig.


Most people don't want to WC their ram because it adds unneeded restriction to the loop, and ram doesn't make that much heat.


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jelah;12057641*
> Need some opinions, ram blocks, or just some ram fans like this: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=36390&vpn=CMXAF2&manufacture=Corsair
> 
> Any suggestions for CORSAIR XMS3?


You really don't need any cooling for ram. However if you want to cool 'em, I would go with the fans. WC'ing ram is really only done for looks/e-peen.


----------



## Jelah

Fans it is, just mainly looking to cover the ram because the purple and silver kinda stands out with the red beast


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jelah;12057945*
> Fans it is, just mainly looking to cover the ram because the purple and silver kinda stands out with the red beast


Ah okay, yea I know how you feel. The blue ram in my black/red theme bugs the hell out of me. I got a great deal on the ram though, so I deal with it.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;12057995*
> Ah okay, yea I know how you feel. The blue ram in my black/red theme bugs the hell out of me. I got a great deal on the ram though, so I deal with it.


Yeah me too, boxing day sale







I've got red Gskill ram, but I think the Corsair performs better, and the Gskill may have some water damage, but I havent tested them yet


----------



## Triangle

Anfi-tec makes a mobo block for the p55 classified?????


----------



## saint19

I know from a good source that Full cover waterblocks for Gigabyte GA-P67-UD5/UD7 are in development.


----------



## sunnyville

just about ram cooling: I watercool my ram - why? I tried fans (OCZ & the Dominator ones) - so loud! I watercool to get a near silent system, which of course also means not great airflow in my case. For that reason, I watercool my ram.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;12058244*
> I know from a good source that Full cover waterblocks for Gigabyte GA-P67-UD5/UD7 are in development.


I want a full block or at least a block for my Vreg for my EVGA board... it gets hot, but I dont want to waste my money if it doesn't make a difference???


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12058343*
> I want a full block or at least a block for my Vreg for my EVGA board... it gets hot, but I dont want to waste my money if it doesn't make a difference???


The thing is easy, less heat, better performance, better overclock.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;12058382*
> The thing is easy, less heat, better performance, better overclock.


Well sure but I am up in the air about it anyways... do they really lower heat that much. at max i get my Vreg to 85c, be nice to get it to 60c on water

Get this for $60 but only does the Vreg
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_401_594&products_id=24930

Or this but it does everything but for $120
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_241_747&products_id=26692


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12058343*
> I want a full block or at least a block for my Vreg for my EVGA board... it gets hot, but I dont want to waste my money if it doesn't make a difference???


I'm using the EnzoTech EVX-58; I like the performance. It's a bit restrictive, though. The only thing worth cooling on the x58 boards are the VREGs near CPU. Most other boards (P55) I wouldn't even bother cooling with liquid.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12059016*
> Well sure but I am up in the air about it anyways... do they really lower heat that much. at max i get my Vreg to 85c, be nice to get it to 60c on water
> 
> Get this for $60 but only does the Vreg
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_401_594&products_id=24930
> 
> Or this but it does everything but for $120
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_241_747&products_id=26692


they do lower mosfet temps by a huge bit, probably lower than 60c. Restriction really isn't a concern unless you are way under 1 gallon per minute. Go for it. I'd just get a block that cools the nb/sb/mosfets all at once. They look awesome and really makes the system looks wise.


----------



## AMOCO

man i can't hardly wait til i get my mobo waterblock,due here friday


----------



## AdvanSuper

I just attached a high rpm fan to my E758 vreg and called it a day.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;12054520*
> Two things, in your post above, what card is the first waterblock for? And your images say 2010 in the bottom corner, its no longer 2010!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although if they were taken in 2010, that would make sense.


guess what...those are older pics









The Fullcover GPU Waterblock is from liquid-extasy.de and fits on a 4850


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12051953*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moar here
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-build-logs/916909-green-money-gold-honeys.html#post12051816


looking good man, we are about to have a very similiar set up, check out my thread
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/905210-sexy-red-got-wet-revision-2-a.html


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12059615*
> I just attached a high rpm fan to my E758 vreg and called it a day.


Ya I have two,... called what a day, high temps still?

What clocks, voltages and temps? do tell please?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


Ya I have two,... called what a day, high temps still?

What clocks, voltages and temps? do tell please?


Called it a day meaning I couldn't care less about the temps anymore. I'm at 4.2 w/HT and roughly the same voltage as you. If it blows up like it has on a few others then oh well just means I treat myself to a new mobo









I'd go for the EK blocks though if you were going to put it under water. They can be had used for under $80 and that's for the full cover (Mos, NB, SB).


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Called it a day meaning I couldn't care less about the temps anymore. I'm at 4.2 w/HT and roughly the same voltage as you. If it blows up like it has on a few others then oh well just means I treat myself to a new mobo









I'd go for the EK blocks though if you were going to put it under water. They can be had used for under $80 and that's for the full cover (Mos, NB, SB).


Why would you go with the EK block? I really like the other one because it is 1 in and one out, dont have to run 4 barbs.

I'd pay $80 right now? who has one?

I don't have money to waste on a new board but I will spend good money and save this board.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;12051474*
> Nice. Pics of ya bong? Heh
> and how's temps on it? Tempted to make one for the he'll of it


Works great for me although I have nothing like radiators to compare the temps to on this rig. Here is a pic.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

All that and only 3.88Ghz? CPU just limited?


----------



## x Yoko

Slush-box at the bottom?


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12060593*
> All that and only 3.88Ghz? CPU just limited?


This is on my qx6700 @ 3.8 and that's known to be extremely HOT!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;12060763*
> Slush-box at the bottom?


Somewhat but mainly it's just water although sometimes I put ice in it


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


Why would you go with the EK block? I really like the other one because it is 1 in and one out, dont have to run 4 barbs.

I'd pay $80 right now? who has one?

I don't have money to waste on a new board but I will spend good money and save this board.










Search the marketplace for one. They've been as low as $60 used. I'd go with the EK one because I've seen it used more as opposed to the enzotech one and other manufacturers.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


This is on my qx6700 @ 3.8 and that's known to be extremely HOT!

Somewhat but mainly it's just water although sometimes I put ice in it










That is my bad, I was referring to the CPU in your sig, ie i7 950

Yes that is good for a qx6700









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Search the marketplace for one. They've been as low as $60 used. I'd go with the EK one because I've seen it used more as opposed to the enzotech one and other manufacturers.


Ya i searched over the FS section and will keep an eye out... I also want to start a wanted thread but I dont have rights to start a thread in the FS section right now.


----------



## AMOCO

Just order one of these to add to my loop;http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?opti...d=37&Itemid=34

So now when I get it.My loop will be like this:
Res./Pump > CPU Block > 120mm Rad. > Motherboard Waterblock > 360mm Rad. > Res.
Will post pictures as I get motherboard waterblock,Friday and 120mm Rad. next week when I get it.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

would've gone with a matching rs rad to go with ur kit, but congrats on the rad, hopefully you drop temps by around a C or so


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


Works great for me although I have nothing like radiators to compare the temps to on this rig. Here is a pic.


More details? More pics?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Search the marketplace for one. They've been as low as $60 used. I'd go with the EK one because I've seen it used more as opposed to the enzotech one and other manufacturers.


EK blocks just rock, the are beautiful, easy to install, and everyone has them so if u got questions they are very fast answered

yes you pay more, but quality is superb


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


would've gone with a matching rs rad to go with ur kit, but congrats on the rad, hopefully you drop temps by around a C or so


Yes,Ty.Plus I have several fans that I can put on it.
Also it should fit inside at the back of my case where the factory 140mm fan is.
May have to make new holes for the Rad.But I do want it in the case.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12061862*
> More details? More pics?


More details? full load @ 50c (stock) idle @ 27c (stock). What would you like pics of?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


More details? full load @ 50c (stock) idle @ 27c (stock). What would you like pics of?


Just the set up. Looks interesting lol. Didn't know if you had a little log or more details on it.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12062070*
> Just the set up. Looks interesting lol. Didn't know if you had a little log or more details on it.


I'll take more, I like taking pics hehe. I'll update this post with them.

EDIT:
Alright here it is I didn't feel like uploading on here so I did a photo bucket album.
BTW I use tap water


----------



## premonition08

hi good day. can i join the club? TY


----------



## smokiez

my first build... might as well post it here







(also have some details @ http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...t-forum-2.html)










































































Eh... it works so... I'm happy







No fancy GPU or anything else yet... that's still on the to-do. The infrastructure is there.









If I get credit for anything... it's squeezing 1/2 inch tubes in to the Swiftech Apogee XT with thick barbs with out rotating the inlet. Granted I'll never be able to get it off but with out taking the entire inlet off (or taking a hack-saw to it) but.. who cares... it's on & no leak







heh!

Chris


----------



## kogiankogian

My protect with case RC690II advance :welcome:
































*....and with UV *
































i wait for comment.
thanks all


----------



## airplaneman

Oh wow, that is beautiful! Nice work dude.

I really like how you have the tube routed coming out of the SB and into the GPU with that 90 degree fitting.

Excellent job sir.


----------



## tzillian

wow, that looks amazing with the uv on. and in the light as well.


----------



## kogiankogian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *airplaneman*


I really like how you have the tube routed coming out of the SB and into the GPU with that 90 degree fitting.


thank you and i think so


----------



## ScurK

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kogiankogian*


My protect with case RC690II advance :welcome:







i wait for comment.
thanks all










That's really, really nice man. I think I'm in love








Can't wait for my own project to start


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kogiankogian*


i wait for comment.
thanks all










+1
absolutely beautiful loop. the orange looks amazing


----------



## kevingreenbmx

ya'll have been busy since I updated last...


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kogiankogian;12064822*
> My protect with case RC690II advance :welcome:


That's HOT!


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kogiankogian;12064822*
> My protect with case RC690II advance :welcome:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wait for comment.
> thanks all


Very nice, especially with the UV on making the tubing look yellow. What radiator is that that gives you option for fittings at either end?


----------



## ScurK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12068751*
> What radiator is that that gives you option for fittings at either end?


I am pretty sure it's a HW Labs GTS 240 X-Flow. They come in 120, 240 and 360 models.


----------



## fshizl

Currently awaiting the waterblock for the 580


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kogiankogian;12064822*
> My protect with case RC690II advance :welcome:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wait for comment.
> thanks all


That's about how my CM690II looked, only in blue/black.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kogiankogian;12064822*
> My protect with case RC690II advance :welcome:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wait for comment.
> thanks all


Absolutely beautiful







Seeing such gorgeous 690 2 builds motivates me to hurry up with my own!


----------



## x Yoko

iirc, you were my inspiration to get my CM690II, Spiderm0nkey ^^.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;12069876*
> iirc, you were my inspiration to get my CM690II, Spiderm0nkey ^^.










yay!


----------



## bl1nk

Going to be painting the inside of my HAF 922m, but need some opinions on colors.
I want to do something fairly neutral as I switch out parts quite a bit. Black is the obvious choice but I want to be a bit different. Was thinking white, any opinions?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kogiankogian;12064822*
> My protect with case RC690II advance :welcome:
> i wait for comment.
> thanks all


Amazing build and love the orange!!! very nice attention to detail









thought about adding Xigmatek orange white-led fans?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

I have my Hardware Labs Black Ice Xtreme II up for sale if anyone is interested.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12069214*
> Currently awaiting the waterblock for the 580


That 460 better get some water too.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12073014*
> I have my Hardware Labs Black Ice Xtreme II up for sale if anyone is interested.


Interested PM me


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12073059*
> Interested PM me


if you want to buy something from someone, send them a PM, don't ask them to send you a message.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12073185*
> if you want to buy something from someone, send them a PM, don't ask them to send you a message.


If he wants to sell it he will PM me


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12073238*
> If he wants to sell it he will PM me


and this is why people with less than 35 rep are not allowed to post sale adds...


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12073267*
> and this is why people with less than 35 rep are not allowed to post sale adds...


Wouldn't know, I didn't come here to trade junk


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12073267*
> and this is why people with less than 35 rep are not allowed to post sale adds...


Who needs the 35 rep when you can just post in the OCN WC Club?


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kogiankogian;12064822*
> My protect with case RC690II advance :welcome:


that is absolutely ballistik!!! 15/10


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;12073289*
> Who needs the 35 rep when you can just post in the OCN WC Club?


Ya no kidding right


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Here she is updated with sound dampening. Practically inaudible now







Can't believe I waited so long to do this.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12073495*
> Here she is updated with sound dampening. Practically inaudible now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't believe I waited so long to do this.


Nice!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12073495*
> Here she is updated with sound dampening. Practically inaudible now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't believe I waited so long to do this.


/jealous


----------



## nickbaldwin86

More pictures:


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

zomg the wires! j/k they're hidden! looks good. Put ur cpu in the loop too! I love the $50 grille inside the case tho







I thought I was crazy putting the mnpctech ones on the outside.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Here she is updated with sound dampening. Practically inaudible now







Can't believe I waited so long to do this.




Form has taken a backseat to function this round









Still a beauty Stallion







, now give me your res


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Form has taken a backseat to function this round









Still a beauty Stallion







, now give me your res










I dunno about that, I actually thing that looks pretty cool. pretty clean and very unique.


----------



## adamlau

Nice work on the sound dampening, fat_italian_stallion. I have about two sheets of 7mm AcoustiPack ULTIMATE and one sheet of AcoustiPack 4mm layered here and there, but your job definitely takes the cake


----------



## mbudden

Did you ever add me? I wasn't sure if I asked. I have been posting in here a lot though


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Here she is updated with sound dampening. Practically inaudible now







Can't believe I waited so long to do this.




thats one sexy rig. does all that foam raise temps at all?


----------



## adamlau

For my rig, an open case sees a HWMonitor 1.1.7 idle ambient ΔT of 13.5Â°C. Case closed with two 120x25 intake and one 120x25 exhaust on PWM (Silent) sees a HWMonitor 1.1.7 idle ambient ΔT of 11.5Â°C. It's all about airflow







.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Form has taken a backseat to function this round









Still a beauty Stallion







, now give me your res










I'll sell you my frozen q xspc res for $70.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adamlau*


For my rig, an open case sees a HWMonitor 1.1.7 idle ambient ΔT of 13.5Â°C. Case closed with two 120x25 intake and one 120x25 exhaust on PWM (Silent) sees a HWMonitor 1.1.7 idle ambient ΔT of 11.5Â°C. It's all about airflow







.


where do live? in an igloo?


----------



## Haseo461x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12073726*
> More pictures:


How do you like the UV? i was thinking of doing some painting for it on the interior of the case.


----------



## jrsprice

I re-tubed my loop and added 470 gtx water cooling block. Removed the radiator mounts on top. Drilled holes for radiator port on top-front of case.


























































I think I finally finished my build!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12074197*
> thats one sexy rig. does all that foam raise temps at all?


foam ain't sexy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12074506*
> I'll sell you my frozen q xspc res for $70.


its cool, I got my bay res with a lil ol' led to jazz up my build


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12073050*
> That 460 better get some water too.


only time will telll....

jk yeah it will have a block.. and soon this is gonna be my ex case... in the process of possibly getting another case, one that can fit more stuff into it... haha


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12074076*
> Form has taken a backseat to function this round
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a beauty Stallion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , now give me your res


well kinda, I just wanted silence. This foam did wonders and it was only $32 for 80sq feet of it so plenty of room for screwing up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamlau;12074100*
> Nice work on the sound dampening, fat_italian_stallion. I have about two sheets of 7mm AcoustiPack ULTIMATE and one sheet of AcoustiPack 4mm layered here and there, but your job definitely takes the cake


the acousitpack is awesome. I used it in my p80 build. made it practically silent
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12074197*
> thats one sexy rig. does all that foam raise temps at all?


surprisingly the foam doesn't raise temps despite insulating the aluminum. I have enough fans for exhaust that it takes care of the problem. Fans at full blast it's barely audible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12075054*
> foam ain't sexy


but you are


----------



## t-ramp

The foam isn't actually attached, is it? Pretty neat solution, anyway.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12074144*
> Did you ever add me? I wasn't sure if I asked. I have been posting in here a lot though


I have not yet added you to the list, have you made a post with pics of your rig up and running?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12077668*
> well kinda, I just wanted silence. This foam did wonders and it was only $32 for 80sq feet of it so plenty of room for screwing up.
> 
> the acousitpack is awesome. I used it in my p80 build. made it practically silent
> 
> surprisingly the foam doesn't raise temps despite insulating the aluminum. I have enough fans for exhaust that it takes care of the problem. Fans at full blast it's barely audible.
> 
> but you are


props for following function though









any temp changes btw?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;12077793*
> The foam isn't actually attached, is it? Pretty neat solution, anyway.


I have it attached to the case with double sided tape so it's easy to remove when upgrading
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12077905*
> props for following function though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any temp changes btw?


not that i've noticed. All of my temp monitors are reading within +/- 1c internal case temp which can be attributable to ambient changes when the a/c or heat kicks on. It's like night and day with this stuff. Finally achieved near silence


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haseo461x;12074633*
> How do you like the UV? i was thinking of doing some painting for it on the interior of the case.


I like it a lot more than the white cathode in its place... was to bright.

The UV works great with the cables and coils that are UV reactive, but you cant hardly tell in the pictures


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12077825*
> I have not yet added you to the list, have you made a post with pics of your rig up and running?


Ah. Done.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12075593*
> only time will telll....
> 
> jk yeah it will have a block.. and soon this is gonna be my ex case... in the process of possibly getting another case, one that can fit more stuff into it... haha


LittleDevil's PC-V8?

You could fit a baby in that thing along with the components.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12079222*
> LittleDevil's PC-V8?
> 
> You could fit a baby in that thing along with the components.


That's the one







haha


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12079635*
> That's the one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha


super kewl, post lots of pics. also gives us a price figure on the whole thing including shipping. I so want the V8 for my next case


----------



## AdvanSuper

Pretty sure it's $658 total shipped to the US if you do bank wire transfer and a few dollars more if you use paypal.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12080504*
> Pretty sure it's $658 total shipped to the US if you do bank wire transfer and a few dollars more if you use paypal.


This is what he quoted me when I asked him. I just dont know what color I want. I'm leaning towards black but the white looks nice. Lol


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


This is what he quoted me when I asked him. I just dont know what color I want. I'm leaning towards black but the white looks nice. Lol


I know he can do other color combos; I think black exterior with a white interior would look fantastic.


----------



## wermad




----------



## fat_italian_stallion

clean as every wermad no ghetto rigging for u


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


clean as every wermad no ghetto rigging for u










And no wires, Tri-SLI running on, magic?







Looks great wermad, I really like that hot-swap idea you've got there.


----------



## x Yoko

Cathodes came in, teaser pic :O


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


clean as every wermad no ghetto rigging for u











Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


And no wires, Tri-SLI running on, magic?







Looks great wermad, I really like that hot-swap idea you've got there.


Thanks guys







. No wires yet since I had to run the tubes first. I'm really proud of the hotswap bay mod. its finally got some real purpose in aiding airflow. Here's the front intake fan:


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


foam ain't sexy










yeah more so on the h/ware side of things, and the pursuit of a silent machine, is definitely flirtatious


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CH4PZ*


yeah more so on the h/ware side of things, and the pursuit of a silent machine, is definitely flirtatious










very true, I would love to do that, but for some reason, I gotta hear my fans, even a little bit







. I guess I just got used to the sounds coming out of computer over the years.

edit: a good analogy would be going from a v8 engine to an electric car, just feels eerily unusual.


----------



## RussianJ

Added UV, moved pump, new fans and controller





































Go easy, my camera is having problems. Moving the pump dropped the cpu temp by nearly 2*C


----------



## kingofyo1

I know what you mean... I just replaced one of the 1500 rpm fans that died from the xspc kit with a thermaltake tt1225t with the blue LED.. This thing is (according to my bios) running at 6k rpm LOL but there's no way thats even possible. I set it up as a DC instead of PWM since its a 3 pin and it still sounds like its about to take off lulz


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


This is what he quoted me when I asked him. I just dont know what color I want. I'm leaning towards black but the white looks nice. Lol


Sorry for this kev

IMO Black external with a white internal looks sweet



















Red and Black looks nice as well


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Hey guys, a quick question. I have some generic tubing that I bought from Bunnings a while back and it was simply labelled as 1/2" and has 12.5mm printed on the side. I'm looking at getting 2 of these http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/comp...p?partid=13949 and pretty much just want to be sure that I'll be able to use them with my tubing. I tried to measure the inside diameter of the tube and it worked out at 12.6mm. I just need reassurance really because I've never bought fittings before in my life and $20NZ is a lot to spend on something small like this.

/end noob moment


----------



## x Yoko

If it's just generically labeled, I'd assume that's the ID, so the comp fittings should be 1/2 ID, which that one is. But I don't know what wall thickness the tubing you bought is..1/16, 1/8, or 3/16. Take a picture of the tubing and I'll see if I can determine it. Or you could just buy 1/2 barbs and not worry about the OD.


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *x Yoko*


If it's just generically labeled, I'd assume that's the ID, so the comp fittings should be 1/2 ID, which that one is. But I don't know what wall thickness the tubing you bought is..1/16, 1/8, or 3/16. Take a picture of the tubing and I'll see if I can determine it. Or you could just buy 1/2 barbs and not worry about the OD.


Cellphone photo alert!







 Hopefully it's good enough. Only piece I could find lying around sorry.









I found a much better deal at another company selling 2 Bitspower compressions for $9 instead of 1 for $11.50, only they're Black Sparkle instead of matte black. Not too keen on the barbs route at this point though. Tired of ugly clamps.

EDIT: To give you an idea, the wall thickness looks roughly around 1.5-2mm


----------



## x Yoko

That's a 1/16 wall, Get a 1/2x5/8 comp fitting.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *x Yoko*


That's a 1/16 wall, Get a 1/2x5/8 comp fitting.


Lame. Don't have any of them in NZ


----------



## AdvanSuper

You can always use zip ties to secure the tubing. I used green previously to match my tubing.


----------



## x Yoko

BP matte black fittings are expensive. I have two in my loop and they were 18 USD for a pair of 3/8x1/2


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


You can always use zip ties to secure the tubing. I used green previously to match my tubing.


Unless I can order the fittings from overseas, that's about the only other way. A bit gutted as I was quite looking forward to having some compression fittings.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Compression fittings add up quickly, too quickly lol.


----------



## x Yoko

I spent WELL over 100 between my TFC, BP, and Koolance fittings. It doesn't help that I had to buy like 5 swivel 90's and a 10 dollar swivel riser. But I would prefer spend that cash than use barbs - they're too ugly xD


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *x Yoko*


I spent WELL over 100 between my TFC, BP, and Koolance fittings. It doesn't help that I had to buy like 5 swivel 90's and a 10 dollar swivel riser. But I would prefer spend that cash than use barbs - they're too ugly xD


Yeah fair enough. I figure I'll get some cheap barbs instead as a temporary thing until I can afford to get some compressions from overseas instead.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


very true, I would love to do that, but for some reason, I gotta hear my fans, even a little bit







. I guess I just got used to the sounds coming out of computer over the years.

edit: a good analogy would be going from a v8 engine to an electric car, just feels eerily unusual.


I was always used to the vacuum cleaner sounding pc. My first build I did with a few rx rads and 3k rpm ultra kazes... not on a fan controller. After that I swore to NEVER have a loud pc again. For some reason when I have people over they always commented that it's too loud or I need to shut it off. I do get stressed out sometimes not being able to hear it anymore. Just tossed in a st1500 today to replace my st1200 so hopefully that'll increase the load at which the psu fan needs to kick in at a high speed.


----------



## x Yoko

I had 2 Delta AFB1212HHE's (120CFM), Two S-UK 3k's (133CFM) , 1 NMB-MAT Panaflo (180CFM), and 1 Koolance at 120CFM. It was murder on my ears. Now I have the stock Silverstone fans, some stock CM fans, and some SS AP121 air-penetrators on voltage reduction. It's all still loud. The stock SS fans aren't that quiet. I miss my 120x15 YL's.


----------



## AdvanSuper

UK's aren't really that loud... My coil whine is louder than 3 of them -_-


----------



## x Yoko

~45 dBa, iirc. They certainly weren't quiet either...Walk in house door...yep, rig's on.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

on the bright side I'm sure it filtered the air in my apt quite well.


----------



## x Yoko

I used to have the ModRight filters but they often got clogged up, and the rig was still dirty. Plus the wind noise through the mesh at 100+ CFM was murder.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I have the filters on and find myself having to clean them once I realize no air is pushing through lol.

It's so annoying when the filters push up and hit the fan... That noise is awful.


----------



## x Yoko

Has anyone ever tried spraying their components with StatX? I was wondering if that stuff was electrically conductive. I figure that'd eliminate the need for filters. I hate dust, but I hate the filters more >:|

EDIT: It just now occurred that Stat-X no longer exists as a dust-repellent spray. It's fire proofing spray now, I think. At one time there was a brand of dust repellent spray called Stat-X..

But the question stands. Would any dust repellent spray work?


----------



## wermad

Im running naked, w/out filters







. I keep my air purifier on to help control the dust.


----------



## EndWar

Hi everyone!
It has been suggested to me that i post some pics of my sig rig on here, so i will..

































Excuse the terrible pictures, but the only camera available to me at the time of this build being done was a not so good compact..Anyways; have a good one!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EndWar;12086382*
> Hi everyone!
> It has been suggested to me that i post some pics of my sig rig on here, so i will..
> Excuse the terrible pictures, but the only camera available to me at the time of this build being done was a not so good compact..Anyways; have a good one!


You sir have a beauty there! awesome job


----------



## EndWar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12086395*
> You sir have a beauty there! awesome job


Thank you! It was a bit of work to fit that 480 in the bottom, i'll have to admit..but there's room for a 240 as well there now..! So the 800D is quite spacious if you have some ambition and no fear of ruining it..







You can testify to that yourself; i've seen your build hehe!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Should be replacing my pump/reservoir this weekend but I have a simple question to ask of you experts.

I have been thinking about replacing the tubing with black tubing. Should look nice. My concern would be the lack of visibility of bubble or even water quality with time. Thoughts/comments on my concerns? Other than aesthetics, any other advantage to using solid colored non-transparent tubing?

Thanks.


----------



## AMOCO

if you have any bubbles you would be able to see them thru the res.btw i'm using red tubing.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12087231*
> if you have any bubbles you would be able to see them thru the res.btw i'm using red tubing.


Ok... so in theory/practice, bubbles really NEVER get caught in the tubing as long as no kinks are present then? (I am rather new to this form of cooling).

AHHHH.... red! That also matches my mobo! Black or red will be the choices. Thx. You make a great "interior decorator"!


----------



## AMOCO

you can still get bubbles in the tubing,but all i have done in the past was just thump with my finger on the tubing and the bubbles went away.


----------



## Kahbrohn

I assume that water flow is not affected in any way then... Primochill seems to be the brand of choice for this type of tubing for what I see.


----------



## AMOCO

all i use in my loop is distilled water and a kill coil,primochill(clear is fine,i guess) has dye in it which is not good for the pump and will void warranty(this is straight from XSPC).


----------



## eloverton2

solid colored tubing also keeps light out- which (along with kill coil) minimizes algae/bacteria growth vs. transparent tubing.

-whalebiologist


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12087273*
> all i use in my loop is distilled water and a kill coil,primochill(clear is fine,i guess) has dye in it which is not good for the pump and will void warranty(this is straight from XSPC).


he meant primochill tubing.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12087394*
> he meant primochill tubing.


my mistake,and primochill tubing is what i'm using too.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12087403*
> my mistake,and primochill tubing is what i'm using too.


it's ok, your info about dyes and what not is important

hows the primochill tubing? i was going to grab some


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12087424*
> hows the primochill tubing? i was going to grab some


it's really nice and a little softer than than the tubing that came with the xspc kit i got,glad i bought it.


----------



## ScurK

That's primochill 16/10mm tubing. Tygon has some serious competition right there!








Btw the red primo tubing looks awesome!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eloverton2;12087384*
> solid colored tubing also keeps light out- which (along with kill coil) minimizes algae/bacteria growth vs. transparent tubing.
> 
> -whalebiologist


Good point. Assuming you are a RL Whale Biologist (You have any really cool whale pix you can send me!?! PM me so I can send you my e-mail...) you will appreciate my concern with tubing becoming covered with algae and such. Used to have salt water aquariums many many many moons ago. Loved them except for the maintenance. Never heard of silver being a bacteria killer until this water cooling adventure of mine so I am still a bit skeptical but hopefully time will prove my skepticism wrong.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;12087571*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's primochill 16/10mm tubing. Tygon has some serious competition right there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw the red primo tubing looks awesome!


I'm sold........... Primo it is. Funny though... in my days (late 70's very early '80's, to say something was "primo" was to say it was good quality, if not the best!

(If you need to know... will be 50 in March!)


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12087754*
> I'm sold........... Primo it is. Funny though... in my days (late 70's very early '80's, to say something was "primo" was to say it was good quality, if not the best!
> 
> (If you need to know... will be 50 in March!)


hehe,me 48 and very true about primo,lol


----------



## LittleDevil

*A few finished case from a friend of mine user: bongholio














































Kind Regards*


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;12087571*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's primochill 16/10mm tubing. Tygon has some serious competition right there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw the red primo tubing looks awesome!


KinkOmeter?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12088832*
> KinkOmeter?


Must..................... resist................. nnnnggghhhhh...... aarrrgggghhhhhhhh.... I cant resit any more!

MY KINK IS BIGGER THAN YOUR KINK!!!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Ya I ran Tygon in the passed 4 rigs so I trust it really well, pretty hard to kink it, but from the looks of it this primochill is amazing.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ok... seriously... In my quest to insure that the quality of the Primo line of goods is... well... "PRIMO", I stumbled onto these comparative pix. They are on a different forum (MEANING, I AM NOT THE AUTHOR OF THE COMPARISON MADE) so I didn't want to link directly to a possible competitor FORUM.

(Comparative dated 2008 - but how much has plastics improved since then other than in pricing)

All tubings are 1/2" ID 3/4" OD and brand new.










To clarify, Tygon is obviously only available in "clear" but is yellowish by nature

Feser does not come in "clear" but rather "clear/UV blue", hence the blueish tint

Primoflex in this example is the "clear" variety and comes with just a hint of blue

Tygon - 4CM










Feser - 4CM










Primoflex PRO - 4CM










Pictures speak a thousand words...

If you want the source, PM me.


----------



## AMOCO

from what i know,stiffer tubing is going to have a bigger kink,softer tubing won't.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12089437*
> from what i know,stiffer tubing is going to have a bigger kink,softer tubing won't.


That's what was stated on that thread. Feser was the stiffest of the group.


----------



## SimpleTech

Just be careful with some of Primochill's "colored" tubing. When I had ordered some 10ft white from Amazon a few months back, it was different quality than the previous time I had ordered. It had a more of a sheen to it and was a lot stiffer. Trying to get it over Fatboys was a pain in the arse.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;12089898*
> Just be careful with some of Primochill's "colored" tubing. When I had ordered some 10ft white from Amazon a few months back, it was different quality than the previous time I had ordered. It had a more of a sheen to it and was a lot stiffer. Trying to get it over Fatboys was a pain in the arse.


Thanks for the heads up. Having dealt within the janitorial supply industry awhile back, plastic bag manufacturers had the same issues. I called up a nationally recognized manufacturer once to ask them on why "this months" shipment of garbage bags was crappier than "last months". It had to do with whom they supplied themselves with plastic from. Different raw plastic manufacturers use different formulas which later affect the quality of finished goods.

Company A may have their price set at $1/Kg this week and next week Company B come in with a price of $0.50/Kg of raw plastic. Who do you think the manufacturer is going to buy from? "B". As long as the material is within specs, they will buy the raw material from the lowest priced supplier. Plastics go up and down in price in direct proportion to the price of oil... it's an oil by-product.

So... it can be a bit of a gamble.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;12089898*
> Just be careful with some of Primochill's "colored" tubing. When I had ordered some 10ft white from Amazon a few months back, it was different quality than the previous time I had ordered. It had a more of a sheen to it and was a lot stiffer. Trying to get it over Fatboys was a pain in the arse.


if it was uv stuff, sometimes the color may very, I had that happen to me with the uv red.

Good thing for my current build Im going with white, it does get a bit dirty if your hands aren't clean (duh







) but it easily cleans off and no kinks. Im running 1/2x3/4 (13mmx19mm).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

sorry wermad, I had to trim down your collection of posts, your newest one didn't fit in the spread sheet  I kept ones that I felt represented all of the changes you have made of time though ;-)


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12090027*
> if it was uv stuff, sometimes the color may very, I had that happen to me with the uv red.
> 
> Good thing for my current build Im going with white, it does get a bit dirty if your hands aren't clean (duh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but it easily cleans off and no kinks. Im running 1/2x3/4 (13mmx19mm).


I didn't know white came in UV? tell this post


----------



## Striker36

i have clear Primochill in my rig and i LOVE it. i used Tygon in a friends build and the Primochill is just a 1000x easier to work with


----------



## ScurK

I just ordered my watercooling!!
*Rads* HW Labs GTS 240 and GTX 240
*CPU block* The first EK-supreme. Jet plate will be removed for improved flow!
*GPU block* EK-vga supreme HF. Jet plate will be removed for improved flow!
*Res* Microres for great justice!
*Pump* DD CPX pro
*Tubing* PrimoChill 16/10mm red








*Fittings* A mix of silver compression fittings and barbs.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36;12090987*
> i have clear Primochill in my rig and i LOVE it. i used Tygon in a friends build and the Primochill is just a 1000x easier to work with


little over the top much.... 1000x easier?









Tygon is great stuff, sure Primochill might be better but by very marginal amount


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12090027*
> if it was uv stuff, sometimes the color may very, I had that happen to me with the uv red.
> 
> Good thing for my current build Im going with white, it does get a bit dirty if your hands aren't clean (duh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but it easily cleans off and no kinks. Im running 1/2x3/4 (13mmx19mm).


R u using clamps? if so, what size?


----------



## Asustweaker

Pics of set up in new case
D.D., TDX cpu block, TDX chipset block, EK voltage regulator block, enzotech chipset block, Swiftech mcw60 vga+mcw80vga, swiftech Micro res. MCP 655, XSPC dual bay res. 750lph, Feser Xchange 240mm, Hardware Labs stealth GT 240mm
UV lights on, side panel off








Front








Side pannel off, no UV


----------



## x Yoko

Lots of tubing in there!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;12093368*
> Lots of tubing in there!


Probably more water in the tubes themselves than in the reservoir!!!


----------



## sunnyville

so much tubing! how do you even remember what goes where?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12090419*
> updated
> 
> sorry wermad, I had to trim down your collection of posts, your newest one didn't fit in the spread sheet  I kept ones that I felt represented all of the changes you have made of time though ;-)


np kevin








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12090518*
> I didn't know white came in UV? tell this post


dude, what the heck are you talking about? sometimes your responses don't make sense







. reread my post, I said uv red, never said anything about uv white.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12091886*
> R u using clamps? if so, what size?


using TFC compression fittings 1/2x3/4 (13mmx19mm)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker;12093305*
> Pics of set up in new case
> D.D., TDX cpu block, TDX chipset block, EK voltage regulator block, enzotech chipset block, Swiftech mcw60 vga+mcw80vga, swiftech Micro res. MCP 655, XSPC dual bay res. 750lph, Feser Xchange 240mm, Hardware Labs stealth GT 240mm
> UV lights on, side panel off










tubes


----------



## AdvanSuper

sebut


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Le but?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

omg the tubes and the plastic fittings! my world is coming to an end! Everything I thought I knew was wrong!


----------



## Pascal1973

New board, extra Gpu, new Block, rebuild.


----------



## RushMore1205

^^^^

that looks insane man, i so wish i had loot for something like that


----------



## Pascal1973

Thanx, i didn't buy it in 1 go either.....upgrading never ends!

Capable of this.....


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12096622*
> ^^^^
> 
> that looks insane man, i so wish i had loot for something like that


Right because you could put a super charger on your car instead for that kind of cash well unless you have one already


----------



## Pascal1973

Or you could stay really drunk for a few months....we all have hobbies don't we?!


----------



## USFORCES

Stay really drunk for a few months then wreck the car and have to pawn the pc









Anyhow it does look nice, good job man


----------



## Pascal1973

Thanx! I don't drink.....we do have a herbal tradition here in Holland though,i like that to help me get to Nirvana every once in a while.








Thanks to our government for allowing coffeeshops!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Eph my el.


----------



## Pascal1973

?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12074076*
> Form has taken a backseat to function this round


Sometimes that's necessary...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamlau;12074100*
> Nice work on the sound dampening, fat_italian_stallion. I have about two sheets of 7mm AcoustiPack ULTIMATE and one sheet of AcoustiPack 4mm layered here and there, but your job definitely takes the cake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great, and quiet!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12077668*
> well kinda, I just wanted silence. This foam did wonders and it was only $32 for 80sq feet of it so plenty of room for screwing up.
> *What foam did you use? I just hacked up a foam mattress pad I had lying around, it was free and works, but it looks ugly as sin, I'd love to find some of the stuff you used- it looks great!*
> 
> surprisingly the foam doesn't raise temps despite insulating the aluminum. I have enough fans for exhaust that it takes care of the problem. Fans at full blast it's barely audible.
> 
> *Same here...*
Click to expand...


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Pascal you have a great looking build, now get to sleeving those cables


----------



## Pascal1973

I did, it's very hard to sleeve all cables by themselves, because the 8 pin and 6 pin are looped.Also it would be impossible to route 8 pci-e cables sleeved single-braided through the case.....Silverstone uses crap sleeve, i redid them with mdpc.
I would have liked it too.....


----------



## wermad

I doubled up my cables, saved me a lot of time and money.


----------



## Pascal1973

What do you mean "doubled up" ?


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES;12096679*
> Right because you could put a super charger on your car instead for that kind of cash well unless you have one already


Actually depending on the car you could even go turbo


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunnyville;12093699*
> so much tubing! how do you even remember what goes where?


there is about 14ft if i remember correctly. took a long time to assemble and even longer to bleed the system. the cpu is isolated on the hardware labs 240, and dual bay pump res. combo. the rest is on the feser 240 and mcp655. I'm waiting for my tax return to replace the tubing, then it's time to do it all over again. I'm not really happy with the routing and organization. gonna try to eliminate as many elbows as possible:headscrat:. any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;12097508*
> What do you mean "doubled up" ?


instead of individually sleeving each and every wire, I put two wires per sleeve. For example, individually sleeving a 6-pin pcie harness requires six sleeves for each wire. What I did was I put two wires in each sleeve and thus I have three sleeves. Its a bit more stiff but not a lot. Saves a lot of sleeve, time, and money by doing it this way. I used 1/8" (~3mm) sleeve, having maybe something smaller would allow better individual sleeving, say ~1.5mm imo

ok, sorry to go off topic


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;12096764*
> Thanx! I don't drink.....we do have a herbal tradition here in Holland though,i like that to help me get to Nirvana every once in a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to our government for allowing coffeeshops!


We here in California love Herb too, although we dont have coffeshops we have other things


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12097877*
> We here in California love Herb too, although we dont have coffeshops we have other things


----------



## AdvanSuper

LOL Funny that was brought up I was just watching Super High Me last night.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Life through better chemistry, huh? Mannnnn... I hate drug testing. Oh well...


----------



## Pascal1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12097775*
> instead of individually sleeving each and every wire, I put two wires per sleeve. For example, individually sleeving a 6-pin pcie harness requires six sleeves for each wire. What I did was I put two wires in each sleeve and thus I have three sleeves. Its a bit more stiff but not a lot. Saves a lot of sleeve, time, and money by doing it this way. I used 1/8" (~3mm) sleeve, having maybe something smaller would allow better individual sleeving, say ~1.5mm imo
> 
> ok, sorry to go off topic


Ah, that way doubled up.I'm thinking of making new cables from scratch.Probably will, just have to find some time.....Thanx for the tip!


----------



## ScurK

Guys we can all agree that we visit The Garden of Weeden every now and then, but how does that relate to water cooling? Let's stay on topic.








Your build is awesome, pascal!


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

count me in even though i have a modified h-50. the warranty ran out so i modified it.. why not right? im going to expand to a full wc set up res/pump/cpu block/gpu block/rad.
i did like the h-50 but it was kind of boring and plain and since i have modded it i get cooler temps.

parts list
corsair h-50
corsair h-50 stock radiator
swiftech microres (microcenter $25)
1/4 ID tubing (bought at lowes $5 for 20ft)
1/4 ID g14 barbs (bought at lowes for $6)
pentosin blue mixed with distilled water/iodine/cavicide
75% distilled water 24% pentosin 1% iodine and cavicide mix
black zip ties bought at microcenter 1000 for $5

*cavicide* use caution this is a virucide used in tattoo sterilization if not diluted properly it will eat through vinyl tubing and crack anything that is plexiglass. my suggestion is dilute 1/oz of cavicide to 1/l of water. i have always used it 1/4 cavicide 3/4 water when sterilizing. also keep it out of your eyes it will blind you.










hope you guys enjoy my ongoing project.


----------



## DullBoi

I have not posted here before, please add my to this humble club.










What fitting(s) would I use to remove all my looped tubing between GPU1 and GPU2?
Its single slot afaik.

Also looking to add another RX360 Rad and a new XSPC Bay with a MCP655.

Cheers


----------



## snelan

I already posted, but that was with my old 1090T rig, here's the new Puddle Of Green.

I know, I don't like my choice of lighting either, I'm working on it.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snelan;12099891*
> I already posted, but that was with my old 1090T rig, here's the new Puddle Of Green.
> 
> I know, I don't like my choice of lighting either, I'm working on it.


could you resize those pics, they are huge. for me, they start to load they stop about halfway and show the broken image icon


----------



## snelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;12099923*
> could you resize those pics, they are huge. for me, they start to load they stop about halfway and show the broken image icon


Will do, sorry about that.

Ok, should work fine now.


----------



## Pascal1973

Pics are fine, you should get more bandwith....


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pascal1973*


Pics are fine, you should get more bandwith....










i have plenty of bandwidth. i just loaded the pic of your 4-way sli in the 600T in a matter of seconds, and that's even bigger.

i have a 30/10 fiber connection, so bandwidth has never been an issue lol


----------



## Pascal1973

Must be the pic-server,lol.


----------



## snelan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *morencyam*


i have plenty of bandwidth. i just loaded the pic of your 4-way sli in the 600T in a matter of seconds, and that's even bigger.

i have a 30/10 fiber connection, so bandwidth has never been an issue lol


C'mon guys, you guys are getting off subject, start posting about how awesome my rig is









But, Pascal, I just looked at your Guru3D rig as I refresh this page waiting for replies, and I can sincerely say that that is the most beastly rig I have ever seen, especially now that it has 4 480's and a 980x (assuming that's your sig rig).


----------



## Pascal1973

True! Sorry....your rig indeed looks good, get some more green lights in the bottom.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *snelan*


C'mon guys, you guys are getting off subject, start posting about how awesome my rig is









But, Pascal, I just looked at your Guru3D rig as I refresh this page waiting for replies, and I can sincerely say that that is the most beastly rig I have ever seen, especially now that it has 4 480's and a 980x (assuming that's your sig rig).


must have been, they load fine now after the resize. is that a rad sticking off the top of the case?

pascal- that is probably one of the nicest looking dual loops rigs i have ever seen. nicely done.


----------



## snelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;12100082*
> True! Sorry....your rig indeed looks good, get some more green lights in the bottom.


Yea, I actually have lots of green lights. There is a green on the bottom and top, and a blue in front, but the greens are starting to crap out, so I'll get on that right away.


----------



## Pascal1973

Get SMD led strips, they don't die, and are a lot easier to mount.You could stick some on the inside of your sidepanel,that will light your rig up nicely.
Thanx for your compliment morencyam!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *snelan*


Yea, I actually have lots of green lights. There is a green on the bottom and top, and a blue in front, but the greens are starting to crap out, so I'll get on that right away.


i like the green better than blue. i would switch out the blue light for a green one so its the same color throughout the case. if you're looking for some nice green fans, gelid makes a UV green reactive fan or a green LED fan. i currently have two of the UV green fans and i love them. the nanoflux bearing makes a huge difference. another plus is that it allows you to pop the fan blades off the frame for easy cleaning


----------



## snelan

Ok, will take away the blue then and see how it works.

Also, that's my double heater core. There is a 240 Rad behind it but I couldn't mount that core on the back of the case or the top as it's just way too big.

EDIT: Ok I think I will go with those LED Strips, these CCFL's are just getting on my nerves, all this wiring just to have only half the light light up.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *snelan*


Ok, will take away the blue then and see how it works.

Also, that's my double heater core. There is a 240 Rad behind it but I couldn't mount that core on the back of the case or the top as it's just way too big.


yeah that thing is huge. have you ever thought about taking the front of the case off and painting the red part , green or blue maybe, to match the internal color theme of the case?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snelan;12100260*
> EDIT: Ok I think I will go with those LED Strips, these CCFL's are just getting on my nerves, all this wiring just to have only half the light light up.


LEDs are where its at. they last forever and are easier to work with. they make ones that are basically just a sleeved power wire with LEDs attached at set distances so you can take them around bends. and there is still the standard LED light bar too


----------



## snelan

I think I actually might go with red LED's.


----------



## Pascal1973

But, Pascal, I just looked at your Guru3D rig as I refresh this page waiting for replies, and I can sincerely say that that is the most beastly rig I have ever seen, especially now that it has 4 480's and a 980x (assuming that's your sig rig).[/QUOTE]

Thanx, sometimes hobbies get out of hand....


----------



## whipple16

new build in the 800D


----------



## ScurK

No pictures, whipple?


----------



## whipple16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ScurK*


No pictures, whipple?










got a few issues with imageshack.... getting a new camera this afternoon so hopefully i can get some nice pictures of it.

with the 800D, Sandy bridge, Gentle Typhoons this thing is idling around 32 and full load at 55 and almost silent. with the TV on in the background i cant even hear the fans. all fans are at 100% except the 4 yates on the 240 rad and there about 50%


----------



## ScurK

Pictures are up. Looking great man!
But if it isn't too late already, think twice before buying a new camera. Check out JoePhoto's photographing thread first, he shows you how any camera can take awesome pictures.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Timechange01

Updated my rig, hope you guys like it





































When the room is dark:


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Very nice, white tubing in an 800D is amazing.


----------



## Pascal1973

Nicely done!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Took some pictures with a Nikon CP S60:









Finished the lower cover


----------



## ShortySmalls

nick nice job of taking up a whole page with just 1 post!

j/k looks good... but personly i think the green inside is kinda fugly, and why do u have a h50 with a custom loop like that?


----------



## alancsalt

Interesting and original and why not?

Thats a rasa kit doing the GPU loop? Willhemmens has an article on changing the tubing on the Corsair. Could get the tubing matching


----------



## koven

here's my 2600k build in progress.. initially i wanted the sabertooth p67 because it would have matched so nicely, but i couldn't justify the price lol, plus i love my biostar 890fx so i went w/ biostar p67










previous x6 build










i'm thinking about painting the ripjaws heatsinks white... not sure what's the best way though lol


----------



## sunnyville

those builds are both really nice, I dig the tubing. Got white primochill myself. Is that primochill?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


nick nice job of taking up a whole page with just 1 post!

j/k looks good... but personly i think the green inside is kinda fugly, and why do u have a h50 with a custom loop like that?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Interesting and original and why not?

Thats a rasa kit doing the GPU loop? Willhemmens has an article on changing the tubing on the Corsair. Could get the tubing matching










Thanks
It is just a pieced together watercooling kit, bitspower GPU blocks.

I am blocking the CPU, got a Swiftech GTS and a bitspower mosfit block which are in the mail, the H50 is temp I have had it for over a year. I never planned to go full water cooling again but I really wanted to again (for the 4th time) so here I am again.

I always wanted to modify the H50 but figured it to be a waste when the whole point is that it is a sealed closed loop. Figured it would be better to just add a CPU block to the loop than mess with that thing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sunnyville*


those builds are both really nice,


Thanks


----------



## Rognus

Nice Build there Nick. Very clean, makes me want to do some changes to my build. I do love that case though.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rognus*


Nice Build there Nick. Very clean, makes me want to do some changes to my build. I do love that case though.


Thanks man, and it is getting even cleaner.... I just painted up the over for the 5 1/4" area, will post picture(s) when paint dries.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sunnyville*


those builds are both really nice, I dig the tubing. Got white primochill myself. Is that primochill?


thanks, yup primoflex tubing


----------



## nickbaldwin86

5 1/4" cover completed:


----------



## iGustopher

Nickbaldwin86, do the two 90 degree adapters for the sli connection work well? Might save me a couple bucks instead of buying Dangerden sli connections.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12117750*
> 5 1/4" cover completed:


You are natural genius about cable and hose management!!!! .. You earn rep+ ,


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iGustopher;12118320*
> Nickbaldwin86, do the two 90 degree adapters for the sli connection work well? Might save me a couple bucks instead of buying Dangerden sli connections.


Do they work well, they work great and are sexy imo.

I am sure they are a little more restrictive but I have no other option other than my 1st idea but I thought it looked bad (referring to this picture http://home.comcast.net/~baldwin1285/CC700D/CC700D8.JPG )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG;12118977*
> You are natural genius about cable and hose management!!!! .. You earn rep+ ,


Thanks man, I have had a lot of people say either way on it, saying the hoses looked kinked or whatever, and some people say they love it.

I prefer to not have a annoying amount of hose in my case, makes it more open and cleaner.


----------



## oliverw92

updated


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverw92;12119205*
> updated


keepin you busy


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


updated


is there a reason you are posting this in so many threads?


----------



## gdawg33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

is there a reason you are posting this in so many threads?










It floats his boat?


----------



## FannBlade

It's like someone hacked his account


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Or he's drunk


----------



## Drexra

Heyo! I'm looking into real water cooling for my first build when it comes time in May! I was just curious how difficult it is to set up for a first timer, and how I get red tubes!


----------



## mikhail00

man.. i envy you guys.. i wanted to go liquid atleast for an XSPC Rasa kit.. but budget is scarce at the moment.. still need to pay for the bills.. wicked builds!..


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drexra;12121147*
> Heyo! I'm looking into real water cooling for my first build when it comes time in May! I was just curious how difficult it is to set up for a first timer, and how I get red tubes!


Check out the stickies in the Water cooling threads. Do lots of research and ask questions if you truly can't find your answer. Do it once and do it right, this isn't something you want to screw up, if you do it can cost you a system.

I setup my first water cooling system @ 15, I think it is easy but most mechanical things come really easy to me, I have also read horror stories about people smoking their system with water cooling because they simply didn't take their time or have the right precautions in place to make sure that horror couldn't take place. TAKE YOUR TIME.

Red tubes, about every store on the internet that sells water cooling parts has red tubing, it is very popular.
There is a TON of different ways to setup these systems, half the battle will be choosing what you really want and how much money you want or willing to spend on getting it, it isn't a cheap system. Plan it out and spend you money wisely.

Good luck and have fun with it


----------



## airplaneman

Yeah, like Nick said it's pretty straightforward if you're careful.

Each part has it's own installation manual, so installing the parts are easy. The best advice you can get is to take your time. Even us vets make mistakes when we try to rush things... I was once re-building my rig and rushing through, and I completely forgot to connect one of the tubes and water went everywhere. It was a good thing the system was off, so I just dried it up, connected the tube and everything was fine, luckily.

Honestly, I've built custom cooling loops more times than I can remember, and I still get sloppy. Take your time and double, triple and quadruple check EVERYTHING. An extra 5 minutes checking to make sure you did it right can save you hundreds in the long run if you forgot to connect something or a connection is leaky and you didn't leak test.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

WC is extremely straight forward, just make sure all of the components are compatible, like no aluminum radiators, and make sure everything is clamped on and tight. Never had a leak in the years I've been running it while my computer was one, just one time I had a geyser explode out of the top of my gpu block since I forgot to drain my 2nd res before undoing the loop.


----------



## FannBlade

Agreed. The best thing is to go through all 732 pages and see what you like and how others "make things work". The strike out a budget and start pricing components to see if you can stay within that budget. May save some money at first using barb fittings and replace them later with the fancy compression ones.
Use caution it is VERY easy to blow a budget when you start looking at all the cool items available. But also don't get a cheap 240 rad if you plan on cooling 2 GPU's unless you have room to add another rad. Make smart decisions on components so you don't need to upgrade as you upgrade.


----------



## Drexra

Thank you all for the quick replies! What I would be cooling is a CPU and possibly a GPU, and I have plenty of time to read all those pages between now and May when I actually build!

I've been going through the stickies and it seems something I could do! Which I find hilarious, because a few years ago I wouldn't have said I could put RAM in a computer


----------



## SwishaMane

A lot of people will recommend a fat rad, distilled water only, ptnuke OR silvercoil for anti-microbial purposes, and if you want red tubes, just buy red tube, not dye. Do yourself a favor with that, lol.

Try to find an install somewhere of your case, and see if you like the layout. If theres any ONE thing not to cheap out on for w/c'ing, its the pump. My order of priority would be pump, rad/fans (considered one item), then block. Last thing, make sure pump is gravity fed from output on res for easy prime.

Sometimes it easier to build pump/res combo. MCP350 and 355s have tops and res tops.


----------



## Drexra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;12123283*
> A lot of people will recommend a fat rad, distilled water only, ptnuke OR silvercoil for anti-microbial purposes, and if you want red tubes, just buy red tube, not dye. Do yourself a favor with that, lol.
> 
> Try to find an install somewhere of your case, and see if you like the layout. If theres any ONE thing not to cheap out on for w/c'ing, its the pump. My order of priority would be pump, rad/fans (considered one item), then block. Last thing, make sure pump is gravity fed from output on res for easy prime.
> 
> Sometimes it easier to build pump/res combo. MCP350 and 355s have tops and res tops.


I read about buying red tubes and using distilled water, proud of myself!

I've been reading in the nzxt phantom thread ill be needing to use 240 rad I believe. So writing that tidbit down for when the time comes! Definitely glad I searched a few threads about water cooling in the phantom


----------



## markag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drexra*


Thank you all for the quick replies! What I would be cooling is a CPU and possibly a GPU, and I have plenty of time to read all those pages between now and May when I actually build!

I've been going through the stickies and it seems something I could do! Which I find hilarious, because a few years ago I wouldn't have said I could put RAM in a computer










If you are looking to do CPU and GPU, then I would get a tripple radiator (360) and make sure you get a case that will fit it in there without issue. If you are buying everything right from the beginning, then a little planning when choosing components will make it much easier to build then having to go back and retrofit stuff in later. A full tower case will most likely be you best bet. You have a lot more room to work in there and space to put your loop components inside the case.


----------



## Drexra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *markag*


If you are looking to do CPU and GPU, then I would get a tripple radiator (360) and make sure you get a case that will fit it in there without issue. If you are buying everything right from the beginning, then a little planning when choosing components will make it much easier to build then having to go back and retrofit stuff in later. A full tower case will most likely be you best bet. You have a lot more room to work in there and space to put your loop components inside the case.


From what I've been reading, gpu cooling may be a bit out of my league then. Because I would need to mod the case I have my heart dead set on if I use a 360 radiator. Though apparently a 240 works dandy with where everything is set up and such, do 240s work with gpu cooling or is it a 360 or nothing?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drexra*


From what I've been reading, gpu cooling may be a bit out of my league then. Because I would need to mod the case I have my heart dead set on if I use a 360 radiator. Though apparently a 240 works dandy with where everything is set up and such, do 240s work with gpu cooling or is it a 360 or nothing?


You would just be sacrificing some cooling, a little higher temps but of course it will work.

Do you plan to over clock? if you over clock I would high recommend the 360, if you aren't a 240 would do the job with some nice fans installed.


----------



## Drexra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


You would just be sacrificing some cooling, a little higher temps but of course it will work.

Do you plan to over clock? if you over clock I would high recommend the 360, if you aren't a 240 would do the job with some nice fans installed.


I am planning on over clocking a little, but nothing too aggressive. Not really going to be pushing limits or anything.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drexra*


I am planning on over clocking a little, but nothing too aggressive. Not really going to be pushing limits or anything.


well that is good or water cooling is basically a waste if you aren't doing it to over clock or have a silent system.

If you have room for a 240 and a 120? you could run that configuration.

I am getting ready to block my board and CPU and I am adding a 120 to my loop that has a 360 on it currently.
Will go:
Pump/res > 360 > CPU > board > 120 > GPU1 > GPU2 > Res/Pump

You could do something similar:
Pump/res > 240 > CPU > 120 > GPU1 > Res/Pump


----------



## Drexra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


well that is good or water cooling is basically a waste if you aren't doing it to over clock or have a silent system.

If you have room for a 240 and a 120? you could run that configuration.

I am getting ready to block my board and CPU and I am adding a 120 to my loop that has a 360 on it currently.
Will go:
Pump/res > 360 > CPU > board > 120 > GPU1 > GPU2 > Res/Pump

You could do something similar:
Pump/res > 240 > CPU > 120 > GPU1 > Res/Pump


Starting off slow with OCing, new to the whole building computers. But by the time I'll actually be able to build (no way in hell am I doing it in a dorm room







) ill have researched for a year.

I'll look into that configuration and see if it would work!


----------



## markag

You could get away with a 240. If you get a good 240 radiator, you can always add another 120 radiator where the rear fan goes, or wherever else it will fit. For a non-overclocked system, a single 240 in the loop with a GPU will be alright.


----------



## Drexra

I'll be researching the parts to water cooling tonight most likely. I'm really excited to learn more about its parts and how it works! Hopefully I pick out some good parts


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drexra*


Thank you all for the quick replies! What I would be cooling is a CPU and possibly a GPU, and I have plenty of time to read all those pages between now and May when I actually build!

I've been going through the stickies and it seems something I could do! Which I find hilarious, because a few years ago I wouldn't have said I could put RAM in a computer










Like everyone said take your time with it...

A year ago I would have said I would never water cool... but now I am...

You just have to get over the whole pouring water inside a computer thing... leak test... make sure the loop is going the right way... etc... Acually I couldn't believe how easy it was... I've had my loop less than a week and I've already drained and refilled the loop... which was an accident since I put the rad after the cpu block...


----------



## Drexra

Yeah, I was surprised with how do-able it seems! And how are you liking that rasa? Thats one of the kits I am looking at! Seems really good


----------



## markag

You can always post the components up here that you are thinking about to get feedback on them. Once you do your research tonight, you can see if anyone else has any oppinions on the parts you are leaning towards.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drexra*


I'll be researching the parts to water cooling tonight most likely. I'm really excited to learn more about its parts and how it works! Hopefully I pick out some good parts










TIME is your friend. If you are not going to be doing anything until May, you are golden. READ READ READ... Look at other peoples experiences. Check out the guides. See what others have done and why. Ask questions (even if you do not have a set up yet). You will make better decisions when its time to buy and install.

That's what I did and in all honesty, because of that I felt like an old hand when it came time to actually install my XSPC kit.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drexra*


Yeah, I was surprised with how do-able it seems! And how are you liking that rasa? Thats one of the kits I am looking at! Seems really good










The rasa is good... I would recommend if you have a high power cpu thou to grab a RX240 or an RX360. I've gotten my 2600k to 4.7Ghz stable with only adjusting the vcore... she's at about 60ish degrees Celcius... I'm acually considering adding a RX360 to my RS240. Either way ull be happy with the results...


----------



## Drexra

Ill be reading everything I can get my grubby hands on! The 360 keeps coming up, so ill also be looking into the mod to make it fit. But yeah, glad I decided on this early, looks like I have a lot to learn!


----------



## koven

last pic until it's finished.. just need to do the wires on the back and throw in some RAM


----------



## mrmullet34

Ill join with my temporary set up. Waiting on more money to get the full kit Im looking to get to do a full loop with gpu and cpu


----------



## bl1nk

Loving the white helix koven.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Heres what my loop looks like now with another rad.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

People always under-estimate radiators







I firmly believe a 240mm radiator (depending on your CPU and GPU) will be perfectly fine, provided you have capable fans. I've seen an E8400 overclocked to 4.5GHz stable on water never going above 65 degrees under load, with a 4890 overclocked to 1000mHz on the core, ALL cooled in the SAME loop with a SINGLE 120mm radiator. I kid you not. It was my boyfriends rig for about a year, until he saw a cheap 240mm radiator and bought it as a spur of the moment purchase. Didn't really need it but it was helpful nonetheless. Point is, if you get some great fans and pair them with a decent radiator and have a loop with very few restrictions, you can get some excellent performance back.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12127352*
> People always under-estimate radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I firmly believe a 240mm radiator (depending on your CPU and GPU) will be perfectly fine, provided you have capable fans. I've seen an E8400 overclocked to 4.5GHz stable on water never going above 65 degrees under load, with a 4890 overclocked to 1000mHz on the core, ALL cooled in the SAME loop with a SINGLE 120mm radiator. I kid you not. It was my boyfriends rig for about a year, until he saw a cheap 240mm radiator and bought it as a spur of the moment purchase. Didn't really need it but it was helpful nonetheless. Point is, if you get some great fans and pair them with a decent radiator and have a loop with very few restrictions, you can get some excellent performance back.


The lady speaks the truth.

Don't mind me and my excess of rads


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I don't really agree, my 3x120 hardly keeps up with my OCed 5850s and those are the only thing on the loop.

I am installing another radiator or 2 when I install my CPU and mobo blocks


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12127807*
> I don't really agree, my 3x120 hardly keeps up with my OCed 5850s and those are the only thing on the loop.
> 
> I am installing another radiator or 2 when I install my CPU and mobo blocks


But that's just it







You've got two of those bad boys in the same loop and both are OC'ed quite nicely. For a modern SLI or CrossFire setup, a 360 is definitely a must, especially with a hefty OC on both cards. If you've got just one card, a 240 works fine.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12127856*
> But that's just it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've got two of those bad boys in the same loop and both are OC'ed quite nicely. For a modern SLI or CrossFire setup, a 360 is definitely a must, especially with a hefty OC on both cards. If you've got just one card, a 240 works fine.


totally agree, but I don't agree with buying water cooling if you are not going to OC your system... but that is just me no one else has to agree of course.

I was even thinking of adding a loop for the CPU and mobo block, but I didn't want to add weight, so I figured another rad or 2 is going to weigh less than a rad or two plus a res, more water and tubing... etc

Also figured if my H50 is doing this good of a job then it should be no problem for my loop


----------



## antuk15

Not complete yet


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12127898*
> totally agree, but I don't agree with buying water cooling if you are not going to OC your system... but that is just me no one else has to agree of course.
> 
> I was even thinking of adding a loop for the CPU and mobo block, but I didn't want to add weight, so I figured another rad or 2 is going to weigh less than a rad or two plus a res, more water and tubing... etc
> 
> Also figured if my H50 is doing this good of a job then it should be no problem for my loop


But generally speaking, you still don't usually need more than a 240 radiator depending on your components, even if you're going to overclock. I plan to OC my processor as close to 4GHz as I can get it. I had this chip at 3.6Ghz for a while with the 4890 overclocked to 1000mhz on the core and 1200mhz on the RAM and it was still nice and chilly. Course I can really only comment for the C2D, C2Q and AMD duals and quads since I've not had an i7 before. I hear they run a bit hotter than all of the aforementioned chips.

The only other acceptable reason for water cooling other than overclocking headroom that I can see, is for silence.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Lol i just found out i only really needed a 360 for my i7 and 5870 i dont reall have much lower temps adding a 240 to my loop.


----------



## FannBlade

I over rad! Can never have to much.

On the no OC no WC does make a little sense unless you hate stock fermi cooling fans my PC is so quite now.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;12128268*
> I over rad! Can never have to much.
> 
> On the no OC no WC does make a little sense unless you hate stock fermi cooling fans my PC is so quite now.


I think the point where you've just added in another rad only to discover that it hasn't changed your temps is about where you have got one rad too many


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12128387*
> I think the point where you've just added in another rad only to discover that it hasn't changed your temps is about where you have got one rad too many


haha and for me my 1 rx360 was already doing all the cooling i could get i guess cause the rx240 didnt really change my temps.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12128387*
> I think the point where you've just added in another rad only to discover that it hasn't changed your temps is about where you have got one rad too many


Trying to get below ambient temp.







4 more 360's maybe?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;12128490*
> Trying to get below ambient temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4 more 360's maybe?


Lol and i was just wanting to fold under 60c.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;12128490*
> Trying to get below ambient temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4 more 360's maybe?


I am guessing you are joking but still laughing. You will need 8 more 480s in order to achieve the impossible
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12128517*
> Lol and i was just wanting to fold under 60c.


Now that is a goal worth going for, my system folds 24/7 and that H50 keeps my temps under 75c, which I still can not figure out how it does it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12128517*
> Lol and i was just wanting to fold under 60c.


Refrigerator.


----------



## amantonas

Here we go. I think I'm gonna switch to all braided tubing; I really like the look of it.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12125412*
> last pic until it's finished.. just need to do the wires on the back and throw in some RAM


cool so u can sell me your old res now!


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12128816*
> cool so u can sell me your old res now!


yup, if you're still interested how about 50 shipped?

it's this one right here

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11183/ex-res-230/EK-MultiOption_RES_X2_-_250_Advanced_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_8_Total_Ports.html


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;12126194*
> Loving the white helix koven.


thanks









there's actually a small imperfection with it, which i didnt expect for such an expensive res... but it's relatively minor so i'll see what Alex has to say about it


----------



## markag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amantonas;12128807*
> Here we go. I think I'm gonna switch to all braided tubing; I really like the look of it.


Man, that braided tubing really looks great. Especially with the other components in your system. I think you should go with it. It really is something different that gives your system a unique look.


----------



## 808MP5

I like the braided lines.


----------



## Lost-boi

I used that braided line once and I will never use it again. Sure it looks neat but it becomes hard as a rock!


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


People always under-estimate radiators







I firmly believe a 240mm radiator (depending on your CPU and GPU) will be perfectly fine, provided you have capable fans. I've seen an E8400 overclocked to 4.5GHz stable on water never going above 65 degrees under load, with a 4890 overclocked to 1000mHz on the core, ALL cooled in the SAME loop with a SINGLE 120mm radiator. I kid you not. It was my boyfriends rig for about a year, until he saw a cheap 240mm radiator and bought it as a spur of the moment purchase. Didn't really need it but it was helpful nonetheless. Point is, if you get some great fans and pair them with a decent radiator and have a loop with very few restrictions, you can get some excellent performance back.


mmhmm I agree that's why I ran my qx6700 @ 3.44 on a single 120 to show people a notoriously hot cpu can be run just fine on a 120. I only hit high 60s at 1.41v.







but then again I am running my i7 on an RX120 and a BIX II but that's just because I had them lying around.


----------



## trekman

What do you think?


----------



## black!ce

awesome


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trekman*











What do you think?


I like it, but would hide the cathodes on the door or somewhere else. It's just my preference to not directly see the cathodes.


----------



## trekman

yah im not done yet im thinking of replacing them

but thank you


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lost-boi*


I used that braided line once and I will never use it again. Sure it looks neat but it becomes hard as a rock!


Exactly what I was going to say. Use at your own risk.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


last pic until it's finished.. just need to do the wires on the back and throw in some RAM



















daym, is that a white helix res???


----------



## amantonas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lost-boi*


I used that braided line once and I will never use it again. Sure it looks neat but it becomes hard as a rock!


Nothing prime95 for 5 minutes can't fix


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amantonas*


Nothing prime95 for 5 minutes can't fix











I think its the heat that makes it hard. IDK, all I can say is that junk wont touch my PC again.


----------



## bundymania

older but nice


----------



## spiderm0nkey

My EK Supreme HF Nickel + Acetal arrived this morning, so I can finally re-do my loop! Pictures once I'm done


----------



## AlanScott

My new build. Although I'll probably be changing pump location and tube routing pretty soon. Mechanically done, aesthetically not even close.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Nice! That's a very beautiful and clean build you have there


----------



## jclark

Great ideas you've got going on there AlanScott, nice to see some new creative stuff for the 800/700D.
I personally would ditch the reflective panels and switch em to matte black since it works better with the case material.


----------



## alancsalt

Is that a piece of wood masking the bottom?


----------



## repo_man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Is that a piece of wood masking the bottom?


It looks like a piece of black acrylic. It's just the reflection of the carpet that makes it look weird.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Is that a piece of wood masking the bottom?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *repo_man*


It looks like a piece of black acrylic. It's just the reflection of the carpet that makes it look weird.










He painted acrylic black


----------



## antuk15

She's like 99% done but things to finish are :

- Sleeve the HDD and Power cables.
- Buy more screws for the radiator fans as they only have 2 screws in.
- Maybe some more UV cathodes














































Excuse the picture quality, my phones not very good


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bastyn99

Got my XSPC Rasa RS 240 kit istalled two days ago







temps are awesome !





Temps after 3 hours of Prime, ambient 19c


----------



## Sizuke

Nice, what's with the stress ball!?


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sizuke;12149421*
> Nice, what's with the stress ball!?


its my buddy, I sleep with it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;12149504*
> its my buddy, I sleep with it.


creepiest statement i have seen in this thread yet...


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sizuke*


Nice, what's with the stress ball!?


looks like a hacky sack to me dude, no less reason to sleep with it







LOL.
By the way, did you clean out your loop parts before you filled it? looks a little cloudy


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*


looks like a hacky sack to me dude, no less reason to sleep with it







LOL.
By the way, did you clean out your loop parts before you filled it? looks a little cloudy










i've heard a lot of folks with rasa kits say the tube is cloudy, I guess its the tubing. most seem to go w/ aftermarket tube.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


i've heard a lot of folks with rasa kits say the tube is cloudy, I guess its the tubing. most seem to go w/ aftermarket tube.


Yeah and they turn almost a frosty color really quick too.


----------



## Lost-boi

Thats why you get something other than clear. Ive never had a clear hose that I liked. Thats why I went with black hose, never have to worry about cloudy hose again.


----------



## Bastyn99

my tubing isnt cloudy, its blue-ish, and its supposed to look like that. The blue color is UV-reactive so it would look better with some UV lights. But since it looked like this before I installed it, I really dont think non cleaning my parts has anything to do with it


----------



## Behemoth777

Here is an overview pic of my new build. You guys can see more of it using the link in my signature to my build log.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CH4PZ*


daym, is that a white helix res???


yup from frozenQ

so i'm getting this crazy vortex effect inside my res.. probably cus ihave the inlet connected to the top instead of bottom, but oh well, might redo it to the bottom in the future


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12152911*
> yup from frozenQ
> 
> so i'm getting this crazy vortex effect inside my res.. probably cus ihave the inlet connected to the top instead of bottom, but oh well, might redo it to the bottom in the future


vortex happens in nearly all cylindrical reservoirs. There's really no way to stop it from happening.


----------



## x Yoko

Bitspower made a really nice little G1/4 piece for the outlet on their Z-tank reservoirs that prevents the Vortex Effect.

Furthest fitting to the right on the lid is the little piece.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Koven did you fill the res up to the very top?

That should stop the cylone effect.


----------



## mrshimmy

Newest loop adjusted a bit for the new ooo so nice crosshair IV formula board.


----------



## trekman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrshimmy;12158300*
> Newest loop adjusted a bit for the new ooo so nice crosshair IV formula board.


very nice loop


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


vortex happens in nearly all cylindrical reservoirs. There's really no way to stop it from happening.


where did you hear that? Take a look at those little anti-cyclone inserts - you can get them for most res's, and they completely get rid of any vortex thingy


----------



## sunnyville

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trekman*


very nice loop


+1 - very clean build. Great job!


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Koven did you fill the res up to the very top?

That should stop the cylone effect.


yah i topped it off

might be cus i have the inlet connected through the top instead of bottom









anyway, not a huge deal to me, actually looks kind of cool with the vortex as opposed to idle/still water lol.. it looks like a waterfall over the top half of the helix


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrshimmy*


Newest loop adjusted a bit for the new ooo so nice crosshair IV formula board.
http://www.joshuafeldt.com/Pictures/Computer/latest/3.jpg[IMG]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
nice loop.. what's your vcore for 4.3ghz?


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


its my buddy, I sleep with it.


----------



## Lost-boi

One front shot from my build:


----------



## mrshimmy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


nice loop.. what's your vcore for 4.3ghz?


1.512v. I am going to try to overclock it a bit more when I have the time. It ran superPI fine at this speed and I think I might be able to get to 4.5ghz


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sunnyville*


where did you hear that? Take a look at those little anti-cyclone inserts - you can get them for most res's, and they completely get rid of any vortex thingy


without those inserts I've always seen it happen in cylindrical reservoirs installed vertically. With the two cylindrical reses in my loop only one of them vortexes, but I think that's due to the fact that the water comes in thru the bottom and not thru sideports. Seems like it all has to do with angles.


----------



## [email protected]

Didn't want to use my old Xigmatek Dark Knight with my new 2500K, so I found some old watercooling parts in my closet and quickly threw them together:










I would say that it's the same performance (if not slightly better) as a Corsair H50/H70. Gotta get more intake for my case though.


----------



## Kahbrohn

[email protected] try slapping on another fan onto the rad (push/pull).


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

New pics..


----------



## thobel




----------



## t-ramp

Nice.







But I'd never want a computer that big.

And there's no point having your specs twice in your sig. Kind of bothers me, actually.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Soo much cooling in that Big O, but I'm surprised at the choices in parts as well as lack of single sleeved cables


----------



## thobel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;12163884*
> Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'd never want a computer that big.
> 
> And there's no point having your specs twice in your sig. Kind of bothers me, actually.


her's my small one


----------



## thobel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12163965*
> Soo much cooling in that Big O, but I'm surprised at the choices in parts as well as lack of single sleeved cables


Not the Big O system but sorta same case

New cables on the way









What parts are you surprised with?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thobel;12164015*
> Not the Big O system but sorta same case
> 
> New cables on the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What parts are you surprised with?


ah, I was wondering why there wasn't that huge O on the front. Mostly fan, tubing size, res, and lack of ramblock choices. What rads are in it btw?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thobel;12164005*
> her's my small one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -pics removed-


I'd get some more dual vid connectors and run them in parallel, I got slightly better temps across the board with them


----------



## thobel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12164174*
> ah, I was wondering why there wasn't that huge O on the front. Mostly fan, tubing size, res, and lack of ramblock choices. What rads are in it btw?


It was a custom design so no Big O thing

I have the Noiseblocker HS's in my other rig and love them

Ram block not worth it imo and the restriction issues it causes are more of a hinderence then anything again imo

Res for the most part is just a res I liked the look

Rads are 3 Blackice GTX 480's and 2 Blackice GTX 360's


----------



## thobel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12164184*
> I'd get some more dual vid connectors and run them in parallel, I got slightly better temps across the board with them


Yeah its my backup rig now not going to bother with upgrades may even sell it.

Specs of that rig is

Asus R3E
980x
3x 480's
3x Intel x25m g2 80gb
Single dual pump loop


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thobel;12164230*
> It was a custom design so no Big O thing
> 
> I have the Noiseblocker HS's in my other rig and love them
> 
> Ram block not worth it imo and the restriction issues it causes are more of a hinderence then anything again imo
> 
> Res for the most part is just a res I liked the look
> 
> Rads are 3 Blackice GTX 480's and 2 Blackice GTX 360's


Perfect choice on the rads. I was hoping you went with HW labs with a build that nice. I wanted that case badly from DD, but it was just too tall to fit under my desk if I put feet on it. Ufo has worked out well, but I need more cooling since I'm running my fans at under 1krpm with sr1s. I need to get around to adding a pedestal and expanding the loop, but temps are good even with high ocs. My mips ramblock only reduced flow by .02 gpm which I was happy with. Really the only reason I use it is because I have hot air from a rad blowing directly on the farthest right ramstick. I would suggest that ramblock. It just looks awesome and performs rather well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thobel;12164251*
> Yeah its my backup rig now not going to bother with upgrades may even sell it.
> 
> Specs of that rig is
> 
> Asus R3E
> 980x
> 3x 480's
> 3x Intel x25m g2 80gb
> Single dual pump loop


If you're looking to get rid of a 480 off that rig I may be able to take it off of ur hands for a fair price;-)


----------



## thobel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12164276*
> Perfect choice on the rads. I was hoping you went with HW labs with a build that nice. I wanted that case badly from DD, but it was just too tall to fit under my desk if I put feet on it. Ufo has worked out well, but I need more cooling since I'm running my fans at under 1krpm with sr1s. I need to get around to adding a pedestal and expanding the loop, but temps are good even with high ocs. My mips ramblock only reduced flow by .02 gpm which I was happy with. Really the only reason I use it is because I have hot air from a rad blowing directly on the farthest right ramstick. I would suggest that ramblock. It just looks awesome and performs rather well.
> 
> If you're looking to get rid of a 480 off that rig I may be able to take it off of ur hands for a fair price;-)


yeah I wan't to try and sell it complete. If I end up with extra parts I don't sell I get too tempted to build something with them









Belive it or not my original plan was a case cooling upgrade using the old rigs parts. As you can see it didn't work out that way lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tzillian

nice thobel, is that the ldr tower 29? ot a custom case? how tall is it overall?


----------



## thobel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;12164942*
> nice thobel, is that the ldr tower 29? ot a custom case? how tall is it overall?


Its sorta a dd29 but Double Wide it is custom though


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Have another update with some rearrangement. Moved my hdds from the front bays since I couldn't fit all 5 up front and added a lamptron touch fan controller. The controller is simply amazing. I would highly recommend it. I attached the sensors to the exhaust side of my rads so that when folding or at anything really over 80% load equilibrium the fans kick up from 60% to 100% Yay for no more fiddling with controlling temps. The only thing left to do on this build is have a brushed aluminum bezel made for my bluray drive so I can hide that eyesore







She's been a good build and can't wait to finally have her finished. I'm considering having it painted in honda fiji blue pearl, at the local shop, but I can't make up my mind.


----------



## Jelah

So I've been trying to decide if i should get a mm u2ufo, and i come in here, and see that post... Guess its time to start saving -.- lol


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jelah;12172496*
> So I've been trying to decide if i should get a mm u2ufo, and i come in here, and see that post... Guess its time to start saving -.- lol


do u understand how much money he put into it after he bought the case lol, not counting all the hard hours spent to make it look like that, that Fan cover in front for a single 120mm is 59$ lol


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12173076*
> do u understand how much money he put into it after he bought the case lol, not counting all the hard hours spent to make it look like that, that Fan cover in front for a single 120mm is 59$ lol


haha yeah I'm not planning on going that extreme, just the size, and rad space is very tempting.. I hate not being able to get the back of my case on without bending the crap out of the back panel due to cable management.


----------



## kevink82

My newly build Sandy setup nothing too fancy


----------



## v1ral

Nice ..!!


----------



## bundymania

A company named "Coolgate" released some radiators. The 360 Version looks like this







:
































































More @ coolgate.net


----------



## Kahbrohn

I like the top/side mounted ports. Gives it a lot of flexibility while installing. Also, the drain port is a nice touch as well.

Looks like a low FPI... not sure how this will work out but I would guess it would require a lower static pressure/speed fan then? (or the other way around?).


----------



## GoodInk

Low FPI rads don't require lower static pressure/speed fans, they just perform very good using them, you can still use higher rpm fans and it will still perform better. High FPI rads need more pressure to push air through them but have more potential cooling because they have more surface area, thus why they perform very well at higher speeds.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jelah;12172496*
> So I've been trying to decide if i should get a mm u2ufo, and i come in here, and see that post... Guess its time to start saving -.- lol


When you buy anything mountain mods just make sure you're ready to double the cost of the case with accessories to make it look good. Just how MM is. I had cheap grills on it before and it was just an eyesore. Definitely worth eating ramen for a while to have it look better. I'd say an extra $150 minimum on top of the case to have it look decent (if it's not painted).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jelah;12173392*
> haha yeah I'm not planning on going that extreme, just the size, and rad space is very tempting.. I hate not being able to get the back of my case on without bending the crap out of the back panel due to cable management.


the UFO doesn't just have no cable management, but negative cable management. It is an enormous pain in the butt to wire anything in this case, anything mountain mods for that matter. You have to spend the time to sleeve everything instead of just buy extensions because there is no where to hide them. If you do get a UFO i suggest getting the SR-2 mobo tray. It helps a ton with wire "management."


----------



## thobel

these are a nice alternative to the MM's
http://dangerden.smugmug.com/gallery/9159011_cr89D#611009250_fjre6


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thobel;12175681*
> these are a nice alternative to the MM's
> http://dangerden.smugmug.com/gallery/9159011_cr89D#611009250_fjre6


Ya seen those cases in person, they are truly amazing and don't think any pictures really do justice. those rigs are also not personally put together all that well either, lots of bad cable management.


----------



## bundymania

My new BP collection


----------



## Onions

ncie lol


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12176972*
> My new BP collection


i hate you.. i can't even afford 1 compression fitting.. and you have like 30 BP ones lol.


----------



## v1ral

Any legit reviews of the coolgate radiators?
I wanna some some different radiators...I think my swiftechs are ok I know i can better temps with different ones
Sorry typing on phone.....also are they good with hs. Yates


----------



## bundymania

There is a japanese review available:

http://translate.google.de/translate?hl=de&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://red.ap.teacup.com/kirakishow/131.html%23readmore


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;12173666*
> My newly build Sandy setup nothing too fancy


well done, damn those are some thin rads, what are they? MCR's?

what's the vcore/temps on your 2600k OC?


----------



## v1ral

okay.. Thanks bundy..
But how does it fair to maybe an RX360.. or BIX360..
I see the review, however it's not in a convetional format as say skinnee...
I like that area at the end..supposedly for a fillport, we can maybe mount a temp sensor to get temps straight from the radiator.
Looks interesting, maybe my next radiator and if it doesn't pan out I can always go back to the swifty.
v1ral


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral;12178515*
> okay.. Thanks bundy..
> But how does it fair to maybe an RX360.. or BIX360..
> I see the review, however it's not in a convetional format as say skinnee...
> I like that area at the end..supposedly for a fillport, we can maybe mount a temp sensor to get temps straight from the radiator.
> Looks interesting, maybe my next radiator and if it doesn't pan out I can always go back to the swifty.
> v1ral


I believe it is meant to be more of a drain port but temp sensor... that's an interesting thought.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12178917*
> I believe it is meant to be more of a drain port but temp sensor... that's an interesting thought.


Ya I was even thinking use it for a exit.

Temp sensor is a great idea if it is deep enough.


----------



## CraftHell

*Stack-Attack*

*Case:*

NVIDIA®-branded Cooler Master Stacker 830
9x 120mm Green LED Fans
*H2O Cooling:*

Swifttech STORM Rev. 2 Block
Swifttech MCR220 Radiator
Alphacool Laing/Swifttech DDC-Pump
Swifttech MCRES-MICRO Reservoir
Lowes Tubing lol
I know it have a nVidia case /w 2x AMD 5770's LOL But i bought this case when it first came out and it was $350 so im using it haha..


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12178972*
> Ya I was even thinking use it for a exit.
> 
> Temp sensor is a great idea if it is deep enough.


Phobya rads have that same double ports feature, I use one extra port for temp sensor and another one as a drain port.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


When you buy anything mountain mods just make sure you're ready to double the cost of the case with accessories to make it look good. Just how MM is. I had cheap grills on it before and it was just an eyesore. Definitely worth eating ramen for a while to have it look better. I'd say an extra $150 minimum on top of the case to have it look decent (if it's not painted).

the UFO doesn't just have no cable management, but negative cable management. It is an enormous pain in the butt to wire anything in this case, anything mountain mods for that matter. You have to spend the time to sleeve everything instead of just buy extensions because there is no where to hide them. If you do get a UFO i suggest getting the SR-2 mobo tray. It helps a ton with wire "management."


Nice, thanks for the heads up. Yeah I'm thinking the Dream Machine 2001 version, painted black, with red buttons, and red hdd/pwr led's. And yeah I heard the cable management was rough, going to get some sleeving asap, but I'm not looking forward to that







think it might be a bit harder with the AX750 since all the cables are black


----------



## kingofyo1

here's mine after changing my x20 res/pump combo into a bitspower water tank and mcp350 with a pump top


















also took the time to add in a dangerden fillport.. fit perfect!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jelah*


Nice, thanks for the heads up. Yeah I'm thinking the Dream Machine 2001 version, painted black, with red buttons, and red hdd/pwr led's. And yeah I heard the cable management was rough, going to get some sleeving asap, but I'm not looking forward to that







think it might be a bit harder with the AX750 since all the cables are black










when I sleeve I put the wire back in the connector right after I finish sleeving each individual wire that way it doesn't get confused. Can you link the rig ur talking about? I'd like to take a look. There is no wire management in anything mountain mods. You have to just tuck it and cover it up. It takes a long time. Try getting some sound dampening material. it allows you to run fan cables under the material to places it would normally look nasty to have cables.


----------



## sgilmore62

Put a GTX 240 in the drive bays, still need to fasten it off. Probably gonna use velcro, maybe make some brackets. The top led fan for looks doesn't match the original Thermaltake led fan. It has a green tint to it although you can't really tell from the pic.



Got two San Ace 2600rpm's on the inside in push with the crappy Thermaltake blue led's on the outside in pull. Had to take one of the fans off the RX240 up top to get my dvd drive in the top bays. Need to move my PSU back 1" for the radiator to clear the PSU on the other side then I can put the other fan back on. Gonna either paint those orange TT fans or get some different ones on the bottom of my case. They don't match my color scheme lol.

Had to move my SSD's somewhere else, playing with the idea of putting them on the hinged door. Still have a couple hours of cable management left with routing fan cables to the controller and dealing with hiding my SATA cables.


----------



## ShortySmalls

can't wait for the EK multi-option 250 to get here i ordered off koven today, will have to post some new pics of the loop when i get it next week !


----------



## kevink82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


well done, damn those are some thin rads, what are they? MCR's?

what's the vcore/temps on your 2600k OC?


yea swiftech mcr's, they the easiest to get round here







, 2600k is clock at 4.6 Ghz with 1.35v atm still playing with the settings.

Not gonna run it too high since the 480's pumps out a lot of heat when its in action.....


----------



## smokiez

This forum and this thread specifically is a bad influence on my wallet.

I revised my build. Nothing you all have not seen before, and *all of this is still a work in progress (since it's *all cooling just the little-ol CPU) but so what, right?









By the end, I ran out of bolts & whatever else I need but still managed to put it together. Not exactly the vision I had in mind when I got that quad rad but, it's mounted!, heh.

I took what I saw (and read) here and cut my tubing in 1/2 vs. what I had before... basically redid the entire thing from my initial post that didnt get any feedback so I figured it sucked pretty bad... need to redo









Does not compete with all those fancy 800D shots but... still all good fun for that which is affordable









View the album if you are interested in more detailed shots/the details.

moved it off the floor/it did not fit under the table anymore... 
needed to go to the side, heh.


















yes... i'm sucking air down, not up... intentionally. 120 mm fans push down then 2 140mm suck in that push and push further down to the internal radiator... and additional 2x120 sucking some more.


















internal rad:


















all plugged in... thought about mounting it on the top front of radiator but... thing gets warm... would look cooler but would heat up the rad

















some more night shots


















these burn holes in your wallet... and it's not that they are necessary, but they sure look kewl

















View all if you are interested in more.

Thanks for viewing.

Chris


----------



## kevink82

Affordable? Ur pump and fittings cost more than mine


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokiez*


This forum and this thread specifically is a bad influence on my wallet.

I revised my build. Nothing you all have not seen before, and *all of this is still a work in progress (since it's *all cooling just the little-ol CPU) but so what, right?









By the end, I ran out of bolts & whatever else I need but still managed to put it together. Not exactly the vision I had in mind when I got that quad rad but, it's mounted!, heh.

I took what I saw (and read) here and cut my tubing in 1/2 vs. what I had before... basically redid the entire thing from my initial post that didnt get any feedback so I figured it sucked pretty bad... need to redo









Does not compete with all those fancy 800D shots but... still all good fun for that which is affordable

















Chris



I see you have some Aerocool Shark led fans, how do you like them?

Bought 2 of the white ones to put on the rear hinged door as intakes and they look nice, have decent sleeving and some handy accessories but I don't like the sound they make. They are really loud turned up all the way and if I turn them down so they are quiet they don't move much air and the led's become quite dim.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevink82*


Affordable? Ur pump and fittings cost more than mine










I guess affordable is a relative term







... all my $$ blown on bitspower so that's why I have no more left for other more important things like gpu block and other kewl toys like a fan controller (because right now the thing sounds like it's going to take off).

Need to get some more $$.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokiez*


I guess affordable is a relative term







... all my $$ blown on bitspower so that's why I have no more left for other more important things like gpu block and other kewl toys like a fan controller (because right now the thing sounds like it's going to take off).

Need to get some more $$.


 Did you use the voltage reduction cables that come with those fans? They cut the noise quite a bit from 12v to 7v. Also dims the led's quite a lot although they are very bright to begin with.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


I see you have some Aerocool Shark led fans, how do you like them?

i bought 2 of the white ones to put on the rear hinged door as intakes and they look nice, have decent sleeving and some handy accessories but I don't like the sound they make. They are really loud turned up all the way and if I turn them down so they are quiet they don't move much air and the led's become quite dim.


I liked them enough to fill my project with all shark fans.

When you have only 2 or 3 of them, I don't think they are that loud. I don't use the 7v adapter to drop the RPM but I tried it out and they still did well... dropping to 900-ish RPM.

I'm running 2 of their 140mm fans and those have pretty bright LEDs in the corners and they really light up the entire fan... they are also quiet (by my standards... which is not saying much because I'm not too concerned with noise).

But when I purchased the 120mm LED versions, you are correct, the LEDs are not that bright (for some reason). I'm not a fan of cathodes & such so I try to light my case with LEDs from some functional component (like a fan).

They perform well enough for me and they were at a good price point. 5 of those in my case... the LEDs do a great job lighting the case just enough to see inside it with out lighting up the room.

But yeah, I do wish the LEDs were brighter on the 120s. Not enough to deter me from getting more because like you pointed out... they do come with some benefits like sleeved and a nice sleeved molex/3pin adapter instead of the garbage white molex you typically see packaged with fans. Those worked out really well in the black case.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


Did you use the voltage reduction cables that come with those fans? They cut the noise quite a bit from 12v to 7v. Also dims the led's quite a lot although they are very bright to begin with.


20 years ago when I slept "with" my computer... I probably would be concerned more about the noise but once you get a wife & need to sleep with her... and the computer moves out (to another room)... it's not that large of an issue.

I tried out the 7v.. yes. It does work really well cutting the noise. It also adds a good bit to cable management which is a pain.

Eventually a bay controller is on my list but for now... I can deal with it. The nice thing is that they are all mounted well enough so that while the hum might sound amplified... it's not the type of loud like when you get a buzzing or a rattle because the fans aren't mounted well.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



20 years ago when I slept "with" my computer... I probably would be concerned more about the noise but once you get a wife & need to sleep with her... and the computer moves out (to another room)... it's not that large of an issue.


 I have a ten y/o son and he's all about making noise. I cranked all the fans up wide open in my rig and asked my son if he thought it was loud. He said, "nope". Between the San Ace's and those loud azz Aerocool Sharks it sounds like a freakin jet engine. sheesh, I thought my stock 5970 fan was loud on 100%.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


I have a ten y/o son and he's all about making noise. I cranked all the fans up wide open in my rig and asked my son if he thought it was loud. He said, "nope". Between the San Ace's and those loud azz Aerocool Sharks it sounds like a freakin jet engine. sheesh, I thought my stock 5970 fan was loud on 100%.


heh.. yeah kids definitely love noise. Maybe kids should be used to benchmark noise over fancy equipment. 1 fan performing over another by only a few decibels would no longer determine performance.

From what I hear a baby cries at around 85db... while we can tolerate only 80. Our 2 month old baby girl is definitely approaching that sound barrier. After a 5 minute crying fest, I can't hear my fans at all. No need for a fan controller!


----------



## smokiez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


I see you have some Aerocool Shark led fans, how do you like them?


In addition to my earlier response... I took a second look and it actually depends on which way the fan is pointing which determines the effectiveness of the LED brightness.

Which ever way the logo is facing (to exhaust usually), the LEDs + the clear fan are pretty bright. But, if its mounted so that the electrical side is the side that's facing you (intake position), the LEDs are muted for whatever reason.

Strange... I didn't notice till you had me take a second look at the LEDs. I was wondering why some are brighter than others... all the same fans... just depends on which way they are facing.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevink82*


My newly build Sandy setup nothing too fancy



















Super RAM fins!

Where'd you get them, I'd rather have those then my noisy RAM fan.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


I see you have some Aerocool Shark led fans, how do you like them?

Bought 2 of the white ones to put on the rear hinged door


Oh... and again... now that I looked at what you did wit those fans... on a hinged door... they spin so fast that they probably also vibrate your door which amplifies the noise (?).

Try mounting them (as a test) against a solid hunk of steel in your case and see if they are still loud. You might find they are not that bad if bolted directly to something that does not move or will not vibrate.

They come with those rubber anti-vibration mounts but those (in my opinion) do not work (at least on these fans). I tried them out and they rattled the case. I used traditional screws and bolts so they are all secure against the chassis or solid components & no rattle and no buzz... just a smooth hum.


----------



## wermad

I was about to pick up some ram blocks but the buyer never responded, oh well, would have been total overkill and major flow restriction with them


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


Super RAM fins!

Where'd you get them, I'd rather have those then my noisy RAM fan.


Seeing as you have a HAF, I'm sure you don't need the fans.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokiez*


This forum and this thread specifically is a bad influence on my wallet.

I revised my build. Nothing you all have not seen before, and *all of this is still a work in progress (since it's *all cooling just the little-ol CPU) but so what, right?









By the end, I ran out of bolts & whatever else I need but still managed to put it together. Not exactly the vision I had in mind when I got that quad rad but, it's mounted!, heh.

I took what I saw (and read) here and cut my tubing in 1/2 vs. what I had before... basically redid the entire thing from my initial post that didnt get any feedback so I figured it sucked pretty bad... need to redo









Does not compete with all those fancy 800D shots but... still all good fun for that which is affordable









Thanks for viewing.

Chris


I don't care much for external rads, but you've got a cool futuristic look going.. How is your performance with the shared airflow? I had issues with a stack config once before, the first rad was just pumping hot air into the second and heating the loop back up







Hopefully you've got enough separation to avoid that!


----------



## ShortySmalls

sexist pic i could take !


----------



## kevink82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


Super RAM fins!

Where'd you get them, I'd rather have those then my noisy RAM fan.


Came with the corsair gtx rams i got, but i did saw them on corsair page for like 20 usd each..... comes in red or black but 20 bucks!!!


----------



## Faster/Denis

here's my build earlier.....

project name: Obsidian Pure Blur


----------



## Faster/Denis

Now here is my current build....

project name: Nightmare


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Faster/Denis*


Now here is my current build....

project name: Nightmare











wow, think i seen a youtube clip of this somewhere, absolutely gorgeous


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Faster/Denis*


Now here is my current build....

project name: Nightmare




















where did you get the expander? You have some of the most beautiful and awesome looking rigs I have seen.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokiez*


Oh... and again... now that I looked at what you did wit those fans... on a hinged door... they spin so fast that they probably also vibrate your door which amplifies the noise (?).

Try mounting them (as a test) against a solid hunk of steel in your case and see if they are still loud. You might find they are not that bad if bolted directly to something that does not move or will not vibrate.

They come with those rubber anti-vibration mounts but those (in my opinion) do not work (at least on these fans). I tried them out and they rattled the case. I used traditional screws and bolts so they are all secure against the chassis or solid components & no rattle and no buzz... just a smooth hum.


 The fans are securely fastned, there is pre drilled and tapped holes for two fans where they are mounted. They are not rattling or buzzing as you say. They hum but it is a higher pitched hum than the rest of the fans in my case. They are even louder than my San Ace fans at rpm for rpm.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12183945*
> I don't care much for external rads, but you've got a cool futuristic look going.. How is your performance with the shared airflow? I had issues with a stack config once before, the first rad was just pumping hot air into the second and heating the loop back up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully you've got enough separation to avoid that!


Thanks... I wanted to give the case a pompadour look ... which would incolve moving the radiator up more towards the front but... then that would be silly so it turned in to more of a mohawk









I think me going against nature and forcing air down is working well. My overall core temperatures as well as my internal case temperatures actually dropped by about 4c. Putting my hand in to the case under the internal rad is no scientific measure by any means, but the air flow and pressure is nuts.

If I went the traditional direction... because I don't have antiquate water cooling on my other components (yet), I'd be sucking hot air in to the rads out of the case. I'm not pulling enough cold air from the base of the case... only 1 fan. If I had a row of 4, then I might reverse the flow but... realistically we are only talking about a difference of 2.5 feet from where I'm sucking in the air.

Initially I had a second row planned for that thick radiator (and it's still the plan because it's almost a must on a rad that thick) but I had trouble mounting the crazy stack between the internal rad, the fans above that rad and the frame, and then the quad rad. I didn't want to use the swiftech box...I needed some double threaded long bolts or something. The box turned out fine but... I had a row of 4 fans planned for the quad.

I'll figure something when i get some more $$









Thanks.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## smokiez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12185525*
> The fans are securely fastned, there is pre drilled and tapped holes for two fans where they are mounted. They are not rattling or buzzing as you say. They hum but it is a higher pitched hum than the rest of the fans in my case. They are even louder than my San Ace fans at rpm for rpm.


I guess I would just have to try one of those brands to appreciate the difference.

I would like to think I have a spilled blood bond with Sharky fans... because one of the blades sliced and diced a nice 1/2 inch gash on my palm under my thumb that I didnt even notice until the next day when I was putting hand sanitizer on... turned out to be a pretty deep cut I felt for a good week.

"Shark" fans slicing my palm... go figure.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## ShortySmalls

i hate all you people posting pics of like $500 of fittings.. when i can't even have just like 6 of them for my loop.


----------



## bundymania

~ 1200 $ of fittings....in my case


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12187101*
> ~ 1200 $ of fittings....in my case


that tells me you either 1) have no life or 2) has way too much money.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12184531*
> sexist pic i could take !


I see a cracked tube. Might want to cut that a little to get rid of that crack.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12187189*
> that tells me you either 1) have no life or 2) has way too much money.


nah, bundy does reviews for tons of parts so he is bound to have them. Haters gonna hate


----------



## bundymania

1/2 up to 3/4 is sponsored for several builds and of course to making me able to tell ya guys, if this stuff is good or crap after using it over some month


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12187208*
> I see a cracked tube. Might want to cut that a little to get rid of that crack.


+1 on that, that is scary


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12187208*
> I see a cracked tube. Might want to cut that a little to get rid of that crack.










Good eye
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12187308*
> 1/2 up to 3/4 is sponsored for several builds and of course to making me able to tell ya guys, if this stuff is good or crap after using it over some month


HATING!


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12187208*
> I see a cracked tube. Might want to cut that a little to get rid of that crack.


ya i put it their, took a knife and cut it so i could get the 7/16 tubing over those anoying 1/2 barbs on the MCP-655

the clamp is on so tight it will not come off, ive tryed pulling as hard as i could and it stayed on

theirs also one of those on the intake side of the pump as well


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12187636*
> ya i put it their, took a knife and cut it so i could get the 7/16 tubing over those anoying 1/2 barbs on the MCP-655
> 
> the clamp is on so tight it will not come off, ive tryed pulling as hard as i could and it stayed on
> 
> theirs also one of those on the intake side of the pump as well


You could use something to heat up the tubing a tad to help it stretch better.

once there is a cut in the tubing it just makes it that much easier for it to continue ripping like that.


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12188055*
> You could use something to heat up the tubing a tad to help it stretch better.
> 
> once there is a cut in the tubing it just makes it that much easier for it to continue ripping like that.


I actually didnt find it too hard to get my 7/16 tubing over 1/2 fittings. Just wiggled them back and forth and they were on in a matter of seconds.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12188055*
> You could use something to heat up the tubing a tad to help it stretch better.
> 
> once there is a cut in the tubing it just makes it that much easier for it to continue ripping like that.


I applied a bit of the heat gun (low setting







) to get the tube over my compression fittings. hot distilled water is another trick or a hair dryer.


----------



## JRHudson




----------



## wermad

I take crappy pics, but I'm happy this build is done!!! Ok, time to concentrate on school now


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## Mongol

Still leak testing...but im good so far.



















Sent from my DROID2


----------



## AdvanSuper

Paper towels are overrated just fill it up and turn it on!!


----------



## TheBigC

Are people with H70s or H50s let in?


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBigC;12189881*
> Are people with H70s or H50s let in?


Yup.
Quote:


> Rules:
> To join this club simply post pics of your COMPLETE rig and I will add you to the list. The rules are not strict, ANY form of liquid cooling is good; that includes users of products like the Corsair H50


----------



## JRHudson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024*


Yup.


put the hater in his place


----------



## Comrade Leo

Here she is. Not done yet, but close enough.


----------



## x Yoko

Thinking of doing an invert on my TJ07. Anyone know where I can get a right sided window panel for the TJ07? I can do a window mod, I suppose. But I prefer factory windows.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12189783*
> I take crappy pics, but I'm happy this build is done!!! Ok, time to concentrate on school now


omg it's FINALLY finsihed!!!!!! Congrats! Clean just like your progress. You do know that it's never REALLY finished


----------



## SimpleTech

Decided on getting a block for my GTX 570. Kind of sad that it almost cost the same as the video card.













































Have to wait until tomorrow to put it under my loop as I had a few drinks tonight and don't trust myself messing with several hundred dollars worth of computer parts.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


omg it's FINALLY finsihed!!!!!! Congrats! Clean just like your progress. You do know that it's never REALLY finished










thanks Stallion, I might give MM another try if I'm not happy with the 800D. I really love what you did with the U2UFO, so that would be my choice









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Decided on getting a block for my GTX 570. Kind of sad that it almost cost the same as the video card.










Whoa!!! Where did you score a gtx 570 for $100 usd??? I would get three in a heart beat







Please share!!!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Whoa!!! Where did you score a gtx 570 for $100 usd??? I would get three in a heart beat







Please share!!!


Okay, it was $141.. close enough.









http://www.overclock.net/rants-raves...570-141-a.html


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I would have bought at least 8 of them if that was the case and made a folding farm


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


I would have bought at least 8 of them if that was the case and made a folding farm


Me too, except I would have sold 5-6 to make profit.

I didn't want to risk it as wasn't quite sure if I was going to get a 570 and since I had to wait for a new shipment, a larger order would have postponed my order.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Me too, except I would have sold 5-6 to make profit.

I didn't want to risk it as wasn't quite sure if I was going to get a 570 and since I had to wait for a new shipment, a larger order would have postponed my order.


Im thinking if you would have ordered 2 you wouldn't have gotten them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Okay, it was $141.. close enough.









http://www.overclock.net/rants-raves...570-141-a.html


four for quad sli benchmarking goodness. You sir are super lucky!!!


----------



## GoodInk

Why can't I ever get that lucky


----------



## woottonp

hey, i have been water cooling for 6 months and lurking this thread for way too long. was cpu only loop, up until today, and now got my evga 470 on water and loving it. cpu temps 20-24C and gpu is 28-30C idle with ambient of 18C and under load cpu hits 32C and GPU 39C

let me know what you think and any places i could improve my build, any suggestions for the bottom rad to res/punp in 5.25 bay would be good as its a bit lanky looking right now


----------



## thrasherht

Is that green dye or green tubing?


----------



## mbudden

Hopefully green tubing.


----------



## woottonp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12199079*
> Is that green dye or green tubing?


its green primochill tubing...man only used die once, and will never again!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *woottonp;12199101*
> its green primochill tubing...man only used die once, and will never again!


I thought it was tubing, but couldn't tell completely.

I wish I would have gotten tubing that is seethrough. But mine is just really dark blue.


----------



## woottonp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12199120*
> I thought it was tubing, but couldn't tell completely.
> 
> I wish I would have gotten tubing that is seethrough. But mine is just really dark blue.


ahh yeh i thought bout opaque tubing, pleased i went with clear, looks nice, and makes draining/filling/bleeding a lil easier.

nice loop btw, is that a 360 yah?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *woottonp;12199156*
> ahh yeh i thought bout opaque tubing, pleased i went with clear, looks nice, and makes draining/filling/bleeding a lil easier.
> 
> nice loop btw, is that a 360 yah?


yep, the XSPC Rasa RS360 kit. Plus feser UV blue tubing. I have yet to get UV lights to make the tubes glow, not in a hurry because i don't have a window.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *woottonp*


hey, i have been water cooling for 6 months and lurking this thread for way too long. was cpu only loop, up until today, and now got my evga 470 on water and loving it. cpu temps 20-24C and gpu is 28-30C idle with ambient of 18C and under load cpu hits 32C and GPU 39C

let me know what you think and any places i could improve my build, any suggestions for the bottom rad to res/punp in 5.25 bay would be good as its a bit lanky looking right now











Lovely to see a green and black CM 690 II







I really love that black and green cable on the right of the picture too. What is it?! Would love sleeving like that for my build!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12181097*
> when I sleeve I put the wire back in the connector right after I finish sleeving each individual wire that way it doesn't get confused. Can you link the rig ur talking about? I'd like to take a look. There is no wire management in anything mountain mods. You have to just tuck it and cover it up. It takes a long time. Try getting some sound dampening material. it allows you to run fan cables under the material to places it would normally look nasty to have cables.


Sorry, ment the 2010 Dream Machine version, not 2001









http://www.mountainmods.com/computer-cases-dream-machine-2010-c-21_112.html


----------



## Triangle

Why do waterblock companys make waterblocks for p55 boards?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12201133*
> Why do waterblock companys make waterblocks for p55 boards?


because some people want them...


----------



## AdvanSuper

No they don't stop lying.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12201201*
> because some people want them...


WHY????? P55 don't getsuper hot.....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12201422*
> WHY????? P55 don't getsuper hot.....


looks and e-peen...


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12201759*
> looks and *e-peen*...


this is why i do ANY thing on my compy XD


----------



## wermad

mb blocks are super sexy


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Sex in the form of a block imo


----------



## 808MP5

yes they are very good looking


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;12204600*
> yes they are very good looking


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;12204600*
> yes they are very good looking


dam that must be one heavy board lol


----------



## v1ral

That does look nice.. holy moly...!!


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12201133*
> Why do waterblock companys make waterblocks for p55 boards?


why do they not make them for the p55 ftw? i would totaly buy one for the looks and my mosfets would loveme they get extremly hot


----------



## 808MP5

hehe... it got even heavier after adding the ram and gpu's










then after the dust settled we ended up with this


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *808MP5*


hehe... it got even heavier after adding the ram and gpu's










then after the dust settled we ended up with this











you have more fittings then tubing. :O


----------



## mbudden

Maybe that was his plan?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *808MP5*


hehe... it got even heavier after adding the ram and gpu's










then after the dust settled we ended up with this











WOW not that is the biggest waste of money i have ever seen, but at the same time im not hating it looks good, but dam man, why dont u donate some money to some charity instead of wasting an insane amount of monye on fittings, there is a lot of kids who could use an extra couple of hundred bucks on close and food


----------



## 808MP5

^lol

we all waste money on unnecessary stuff...
hehe i own a $4k dvd player(my sig rig)... oh yeah i fold also...
but many of the parts we use to build our rigs is unnecessary... 
we have to ask ourselves do i really need it? probably not... but we want it


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


WOW not that is the biggest waste of money i have ever seen, but at the same time im not hating it looks good, but dam man, why dont u donate some money to some charity instead of wasting an insane amount of monye on fittings, there is a lot of kids who could use an extra couple of hundred bucks on close and food


You do realize that those who can afford nice things also donate to charity, one way or another. Don't generalize please.

Keeping on topic, I finally got my 570 added to my loop. Idle temperatures dropped 40Â°C.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I still hate you and your $141 570....


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


You do realize that those who can afford nice things also donate to charity, one way or another. Don't generalize please.

Keeping on topic, I finally got my 570 added to my loop. Idle temperatures dropped 40Â°C.










So jealous, I need to add mine to my loop. I don't think I can put up with the obnoxiously loud fan on it any more.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *808MP5*












I would love to see more pics of this in hi res maybe you could PM me one.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I still hate you and your $141 570....










Haha!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


So jealous, I need to add mine to my loop. I don't think I can put up with the obnoxiously loud fan on it any more.


Surprisingly enough I was fine with the fan noise. I wasn't fond of my temperatures, especially at idle - Thanks Nvidia and your stupid multi-monitor bug.


----------



## Senator

Hey all, I recently completed my first pc and watercooled it to boot! Can I get a cookie? (Seriously, it didn't break the bank but... lol)


----------



## ablearcher

I raise you once more









X3440
GTX460
Micron BAMF RAM is still incomming, meanwhile it's got a single 2GB Micron little cousin








SG06s (must more beautiful than pictures can fully digest







).





SG06S - X3440 - 4GB - 64GB C300 - GTX460 - RASA 450 - RS120 - MCW80

Though the cursed C300 is still shipping


----------



## mbudden

Those 90* fittings aren't killing flow?


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Those 90* fittings aren't killing flow?


 I dunno if they are. This is my first WC build.


----------



## Senator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


I dunno if they are. This is my first WC build.


I was afraid to go with them in my build for that reason. Heck I only went with compression fittings as they are supposed to ensure less leak chance!


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Senator*


I was afraid to go with them in my build for that reason. Heck I only went with compression fittings as they are supposed to ensure less leak chance!


 Ah, I'll add some putty, then.


----------



## mbudden

I really do like how you fit all that in there.


----------



## Onions

thats what she said XD

ot: any ideas on a thin... like real thin 240 rad?


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I really do like how you fit all that in there.


Thank you!







It's noiser than I want, however. So I'm going to ditch it after finishing up my build log, and go with a shuriken + the stock TWIN FROZER cooler







(both of which I know will be silent, from experience).

Silence was the primary, overriding goal of this build, and sadly, I've failed miserably at it. Temps are soaring into the high 70s, even with a GT-AP15 in either direction at max speed.


----------



## SpeedNuggeT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I really do like how you fit all that in there.


This. Good job!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ablearcher

Thank you, is there any chance of me getting in for "smallest WC build"?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ablearcher;12206148*
> Thank you, is there any chance of me getting in for "smallest WC build"?


you will have to fight olli for that one... see the award that mentions something about r2d2 on the first page


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12206297*
> you will have to fight olli for that one... see the award that mentions something about r2d2 on the first page


hmmm.... I'll have a bit of work on my hands,







. In the meantime, I _did_ W/C my GPU, for a complete WC'd system







I'm being a jerk, here
Acrylic... I gotta get used to modding it, soon


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12205146*
> WOW not that is the biggest waste of money i have ever seen, but at the same time im not hating it looks good, but dam man, why dont u donate some money to some charity instead of wasting an insane amount of monye on fittings, there is a lot of kids who could use an extra couple of hundred bucks on close and food


Did you really have to spend all that money on your rig? Why didn't you cut back on it and donate it to charity? It was his money to spend and not yours. It is his choice whether or not he wants to give it away or not.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;12206409*
> Did you really have to spend all that money on your rig? Why didn't you cut back on it and donate it to charity? It was his money to spend and not yours. It is his choice whether or not he wants to give it away or not.


i know, i overreacted, i was just reading an article about this city in russia where they dont even have electricyt or sewer systems and stuff, and my work actualy paid for most of my rig lol, but yes u are right we spend money on what ever we want, it was not my place to say those things


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12205938*
> Those 90* fittings aren't killing flow?


the restrict flow but in such small numver that its not noticable, water flows in what ever angle it can, so unless the the opeining in the fitting is significantly smaller then u will not see any restrictions


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12206659*
> the restrict flow but in such small numver that its not noticable, water flows in what ever angle it can, so unless the the opeining in the fitting is significantly smaller then u will not see any restrictions


heh, unless if you have a very weak pump







j/k


----------



## jclark

ablearcher, how come you didn't put any heatsinks on the VRM's?


----------



## bundymania

New Stuff from Alphacool incoming.....


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jclark;12207820*
> ablearcher, how come you didn't put any heatsinks on the VRM's?


I'm still waiting on my ENZOTECH MOSFET coolers to arrive









Though there a few on the underside









EDIT: oh, you mean the GPU







Uhhh...... ummmm..... I *might* of had an oversight









Thank you!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

YAY! 500 reps, first light green dot, & 4 Flames! thanks guys!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12209860*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YAY! 500 reps, first light green dot, & 4 Flames! thanks guys!


Rep+ for just being so excited


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12209860*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YAY! 500 reps, first light green dot, & 4 Flames! thanks guys!


Congrats! I just need to hit that giant 35 mark so I can sell.


----------



## thrasherht

Yay for a new avatar picture.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


Rep+ for just being so excited



Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


Congrats! I just need to hit that giant 35 mark so I can sell.










thanks guys!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Yay for a new avatar picture.










haha, be careful with that, mods here tend to frown upon the "fffff" stuff...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12210038*
> thanks guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha, be careful with that, mods here tend to frown upon the "fffff" stuff...


come on, it is david tennant, how can you deny that?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


come on, it is david tennant, how can you deny that?


it's just the letters...


----------



## saint19

Hi guys.

A quick question, can a Swiftech MCP-420 fit in a HAF X? Im thinking in change my case for it.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Hi guys.

A quick question, can a Swiftech MCP-420 fit in a HAF X? Im thinking in change my case for it.


Nope it's setup for a 360


----------



## Rognus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *808MP5*


hehe... it got even heavier after adding the ram and gpu's

then after the dust settled we ended up with this











Absolutely Beautiful.


----------



## lynxxyarly

Hello all. I'm new to the water cooling group and I thought I would share my simple, yet effective WC setup.

I used the first-timer kit from xspc. The 750 kit with the 340 rad. I currently only have the CPU cooled, but I think I'm gonna expand and do my two video cards. I think this system could handle the load. You guys think so or no? Also any tips on cleaning up the hosing and/or using different barbs would be much appreciated!

As a side note, I would like to thank anyone and everyone on this forum, I did a lot of lurking before I took the plunge and pretty much all of my information was already here, just had to do some searches and discover









EDIT: Added in last picture under the new UV light I installed. This camera doesn't do dark rooms very well. It really looks impressive in person, I think.

Parts list:
XSPC 750 rasa kit from frozencpu

-Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock
-X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir
-RS360 Radiator
-G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6
-PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16"ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - UV Green
-Koolance QDC (High Flow) Shutoff Nozzle, Female Panel Barb (13mm, 1/2")
-Koolance QDC (High Flow) Shutoff Nozzle, Male Panel Barb (13mm, 1/2")
-Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm 1850rpm ap-15s x3 for rad


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;12205184*
> ^lol
> 
> we all waste money on unnecessary stuff...
> hehe i own a $4k dvd player(my sig rig)... oh yeah i fold also...
> but many of the parts we use to build our rigs is unnecessary...
> we have to ask ourselves do i really need it? probably not... but we want it


u spent 4k on core 1156 core i5 and GTX 460 rig? gj you my man win


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12216561*
> u spent 4k on core 1156 core i5 and GTX 460 rig? gj you my man win


$2000 of that is wc parts. It's what made my rig break the bank. I'd say probably 30% of the cost of the build is wc parts. I'd say not too bad for helping cure cancer


----------



## 808MP5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12216561*
> u spent 4k on core 1156 core i5 and GTX 460 rig? gj you my man win


thanks?
lots of hate and sarcasm going around lately


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;12217948*
> thanks?
> lots of hate and sarcasm going around lately


haters gonna hate?


----------



## 808MP5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12217971*
> haters gonna hate?


it's all good... i just don't understand why ppl going be like waste money this waste money that... pretty much any enthusiast build is a waste of money and more than any one really needs...

@shorty
the only reason my system is based off the 1156 i5 670 is because I got it from a friends that works at intel and she wanted to see what i could do with it.... yes it's an unlocked i5 670... maybe a shi!!y platform but not too many of these floating around... pretty priceless if you ask me... and whats wrong my with my 460's... they rock


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;12218016*
> it's all good... i just don't understand why ppl going be like waste money this waste money that... pretty much any enthusiast build is a waste of money and more than any one really needs...
> 
> @shorty
> the only reason my system is based off the 1156 i5 670 is because I got it from a friends that works at intel and she wanted to see what i could do with it.... yes it's an unlocked i5 670... maybe a shi!!y platform but not too many of these floating around... pretty priceless if you ask me... and whats wrong my with my 460's... they rock


This is OCN, one of the main priorities of the site is to make YOU break the bank


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;12218016*
> it's all good... i just don't understand why ppl going be like waste money this waste money that... pretty much any enthusiast build is a waste of money and more than any one really needs...
> 
> @shorty
> the only reason my system is based off the 1156 i5 670 is because I got it from a friends that works at intel and she wanted to see what i could do with it.... yes it's an unlocked i5 670... maybe a shi!!y platform but not too many of these floating around... pretty priceless if you ask me... and whats wrong my with my 460's... they rock


nothing wrong with it, but u could have goten a sick rig for $4k


----------



## smokiez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;12217948*
> thanks?
> lots of hate and sarcasm going around lately


I think you like shiny things... so you purchase lots of shiny things even if it's not necessary.

You are like Trump. Trump builds toilets out of gold... in fact he builds everything out of gold. It's not necessary but he does it anyway because he has the $.

It's not hate... that's just the analogy/personality that comes to mind when I see someone do something like that with their rig.


----------



## 808MP5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12218067*
> nothing wrong with it, but u could have goten a sick rig for $4k












yes i know what you mean... but i'm satisfied with what i have... eventually i'm going to build another comp... i wanna stack a u2ufo and pedestal on my current rig

i'll admit i did get carried away with the WC parts but that was the goal... to go extreme

460's are sexy...


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokiez;12218118*
> I think you like shiny things... so you purchase lots of shiny things even if it's not necessary.
> 
> You are like Trump. Trump builds toilets out of gold... in fact he builds everything out of gold. It's not necessary but he does it anyway because he has the $.
> 
> It's not hate... that's just the analogy/personality that comes to mind when I see someone do something like that with their rig.


I honestly wish I had used fittings like him in my rig. Would have probably decreased temps by 1c on my cpu and a few c on my gpus. Fittings will last a long time, even thru his next build. To each his own. You're on OCN. It's all about the bling









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;12218141*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes i know what you mean... but i'm satisfied with what i have... eventually i'm going to build another comp... i wanna stack a u2ufo and pedestal on my current rig
> 
> i'll admit i did get carried away with the WC parts but that was the goal... to go extreme


I wish I could fit an ascension with a pedestal under my desk, but no way. Adding a pedestal will be as high as I can go.


----------



## 808MP5

put it on top of the desK?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;12218205*
> put it on top of the desK?


can't I have a build in desk that I use. It's just big enough on top to fit my 3 26" monitors. I think I could fit maybe 2 pedestals if I didn't have feet on the ufo. No need tho. I have enough rad to cool everything and phase change in the pedestal will cool the cpu nicely


----------



## jax0527

Here is my loop, tell me what you think.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jax0527;12218931*
> Here is my loop, tell me what you think.


SEXY!!

Im not so sure about the kink coils, but other then that. SEXY!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

btw, i am slightly confused... MY rig cost me about $4k and I got most of it back when GTX 280's where the big thing...


----------



## Pis

Worst..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Farmer Boe

My first water cooling experience! I love the low temps so far.


----------



## Yogi

Miss my watercooling


----------



## Hewi

Finally added a block for the GFX, will probably put the whole system under the knife if GTX590 ever arrives to the market.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


btw, i am slightly confused... MY rig cost me about $4k and I got most of it back when GTX 280's where the big thing...


I'll take 2


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AMOCO

Ok,Here is my New Koolance Motherboard waterblock and added a New HW Black Ice Pro 120mm Rad. to my loop.And man my NB/SB temp are like NB/37c & SB/32c(Max. temps).They were running NB/67c & SB/55c(Max.)on my current setting below.
Loop is like this:
Res./Pump > CPU > 120mm Rad. > Motherboard > RS360 Rad.


































BTW,I know I need to do more work on the inside of the case and wiring,But a little bit at a time.Plus to cold to paint now anyway.That comes this Summer.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Miss my watercooling










Your HAF was completely awesome, id miss that too.


----------



## trekman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hewi*


Finally added a block for the GFX, will probably put the whole system under the knife if GTX590 ever arrives to the market.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


thats a nice looking RIG you got there!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Anyone in here with a 700/800D with an RX360 rad and 120mm fans in push/pull top mounted? Want to know if I'll have enough clearance since the RX360 and Ultra Kaze's are already pushing it on clearance and push/pull 120x25mm fans will add 12mm more compare to the 38mm UK's.


----------



## Tovich

Guys i would like to be part of the club i just finished my WC project RED DEVIL here some pictures....


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe;12219350*
> My first water cooling experience! I love the low temps so far.


I would recommend getting rid of the UV dye. Get some colored tubing.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tovich;12226657*
> Guys i would like to be part of the club i just finished my WC project RED DEVIL here some pictures....


!!!!

That's a HAF X right?

If that's the case...pardon the pun, then you have finally shown me what I need to do!! I've been wanting to fix my fugly loop and you finally showed me what I should do!

/end awkward random joy


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Tovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat;12227060*
> !!!!
> 
> That's a HAF X right?
> 
> If that's the case...pardon the pun, then you have finally shown me what I need to do!! I've been wanting to fix my fugly loop and you finally showed me what I should do!
> 
> /end awkward random joy


YEs thats a HAF X, no problem is you need more pictures let me know


----------



## airplaneman

Yay! Just got my replacement pump..

Stupid MCP655 died on me :/.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman;12227442*
> Yay! Just got my replacement pump..
> 
> Stupid MCP655 died on me :/.


that sucks. Glad you go a new one. What pump did you get?


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12226881*
> I would recommend getting rid of the UV dye. Get some colored tubing.


The green stuff is actually swiftech hydrx additive. I will be running fesar stuff by this weekend though.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12226425*
> Anyone in here with a 700/800D with an RX360 rad and 120mm fans in push/pull top mounted? Want to know if I'll have enough clearance since the RX360 and Ultra Kaze's are already pushing it on clearance and push/pull 120x25mm fans will add 12mm more compare to the 38mm UK's.


I have an RX360 with 6 yate loon 25mm. It sits right on top of my mobo. Its so close. 38mm wouldnt work.


----------



## Dark

Some poor cell phone pics, I'll pull out the DSLR another day.

My sig box with a modified H70 system (additional 120mm radiator and added a micro reservoir).










My project box (Q9550) with an XSPC Rasa RS240 kit, additional 240mm radiator, Swiftech NB block, and a 4890 with an EK copper/nickel block. All stuffed inside a mini P180.


----------



## koven

why do people still use dye? do they not care or they dont know the negative effects?

honest question , lol


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe;12227547*
> The green stuff is actually swiftech hydrx additive. I will be running fesar stuff by this weekend though.


That is still UV dye. Get rid of it. Trust me.
Go to the store and get distilled water. Then use a kill coil or some PT nuke.
No coolant, no dye, no premixed anything.
Anything that claims to be non conductive, guess what, so is distilled water. Water isn't conductive, it is the salts and minerals that make it conductive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark;12227755*
> Some poor cell phone pics, I'll pull out the DSLR another day.
> 
> My sig box with a modified H70 system (additional 120mm radiator and added a micro reservoir).
> 
> My project box (Q9550) with an XSPC Rasa RS240 kit, additional 240mm radiator, Swiftech NB block, and a 4890 with an EK copper/nickel block. All stuffed inside a mini P180.


You too. get rid of the dye. I promise you don't want to have to clean that H70 block.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12227757*
> why do people still use dye? do they not care or they dont know the negative effects?
> 
> honest question , lol


I say it's a 50/50 split between not knowing and not caring
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;12227712*
> I have an RX360 with 6 yate loon 25mm. It sits right on top of my mobo. Its so close. 38mm wouldnt work.


I'm not talking about 38mm, I was using my 38mm UK's as a reference to how close it is already and if 25mm fans in push/pull (50mm in total) would fit because I want to get rid of them. But you answered my question since you have an RX360 with push/pull.


----------



## Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12227800*
> You too. get rid of the dye. I promise you don't want to have to clean that H70 block.


It's Feser One Non-Conductive Cooling Fluid.
I'm not at all worried about the H70, once it dies it's getting replaced.

Aside from that, the fluid will get changed our as often as quarterly, I'll make sure to give a non-dye fluid a chance at my next go.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark;12227834*
> It's Feser One Non-Conductive Cooling Fluid.
> I'm not at all worried about the H70, once it dies it's getting replaced.
> 
> Aside from that, the fluid will get changed our as often as quarterly, I'll make sure to give a non-dye fluid a chance at my next go.


Now, see i don't think you understand. It doesn't matter what the company says, that stuff seperates out and clogs up your blocks, and it does it quick some times. Go get distilled water and some biocide of some sort. If you aren't using the aluminum rads then can just use those things.


----------



## mastical

Hes right. Its turns into a mess fast.


----------



## thrasherht

Don't make us pull out the horror pictures.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12227805*
> I say it's a 50/50 split between not knowing and not caring


I don't run die, but you know what with all the experts here & all the threads about how you should stay away from it, I have yet to see 1 post where someone specifies a rough time line of *when* the die begins to separate.

1 month? 2 months? 2 years? What?

As long as you flush & cycle the fluid, it will cost you more to keep paying for die but I don't see you destroying your components like a bunch of people are trying to scare others in to thinking.

So... what is the estimated time one should cycle their coolent? OR... when should one expect die to separate?

That would be some helpful information over the other thread on this forum that just has everyone talking about how bad it is and showing screenshots. That's fine & all but... no one says WHEN this can or could occur.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

seriously... the only way I would use anything other than water again is if I went with a chilled loop. I would then use clear propylene glycol. Forget the colored crap. I used it on my first build and thankfully had no gunk because of a koolance inline filter (that had to be cleaned like weekly after a while)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokiez;12227889*
> I don't run die, but you know what with all the experts here & all the threads about how you should stay away from it, I have yet to see 1 post where someone specifies a rough time line of *when* the die begins to separate.
> 
> 1 month? 2 months? 2 years? What?
> 
> As long as you flush & cycle the fluid, it will cost you more to keep paying for die but I don't see you destroying your components like a bunch of people are trying to scare others in to thinking.
> 
> So... what is the estimated time one should cycle their coolent? OR... when should one expect die to separate?
> 
> That would be some helpful information over the other thread on this forum that just has everyone talking about how bad it is and showing screenshots. That's fine & all but... no one says WHEN this can or could occur.


that is the thing, there is no line, some people have had it last a year, some have had it seperate in as little at 2 months.

But most of the time it is within about 3 to 4 months. But coolant is a ripoff anyway. Like the aqua pure stuff, its like 5 dollars a liter. It is nothing more then distilled water. you can buy that for a dollar or so a gallon at the store.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/597440-reason-only-used-distlled-water.html
That thread should be stickied.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

After a while, the dye separates itself and clogs up your blocks. No one said anything about it destroying equipment, just saving yourself from cleaning blocks, rads, buying new tubings etc. With distilled + silver coil, you can go years without any maintenance. Within a month, your tubings will be stained by the dye and after 2 month, your blocks will be clogged.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12226425*
> Anyone in here with a 700/800D with an RX360 rad and 120mm fans in push/pull top mounted? Want to know if I'll have enough clearance since the RX360 and Ultra Kaze's are already pushing it on clearance and push/pull 120x25mm fans will add 12mm more compare to the 38mm UK's.


im pretty sure wermad has that setup, he's got a shroud on top with the fans in it?!?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12227453*
> that sucks. Glad you go a new one. What pump did you get?


Ended up getting another one..lol. It worked strong for the ~5 years it existed. I figure that's a pretty good life for a pump.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12227985*
> im pretty sure wermad has that setup, he's got a shroud on top with the fans in it?!?


Yes he has the shroud, but I don't want to cut up the case.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## PulkPull

Some updated pics of my build. I will take more complete build pics when I get finished enjoying having a working computer again. I've had it down for soooo long sleeving.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## thrasherht

Ok guys. I want some clear blue tubing. what should I buy? I have feser blue UV tubing, but i want to be able to see through it. I can't see through my current tubing. I also think it is kinda thick too.


----------



## Triangle

EK has kits now??


----------



## thrasherht

I want blue tubing.


----------



## Triangle

OHH oops I am sorry I misread....


----------



## thrasherht

haha, no problem. I have feser tubing that isn't clear, and is blue. I want to be able to see through my tubing.


----------



## Triangle

I think PrimoFlex makes some blue in the pictures it looks like you can see through it but i am not sure....


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

you can see thru primoflex blue


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


you can see thru primoflex blue


well I have the primoflux UV green and if the blue is anything like the green, you can see through it. If it's worth anything, Im using 7/16 inner and 5/8 outer diameter tubing. my pictures are up here.


----------



## ScurK

I just got the red primochill tubing yesterday... it is REALLY sexy, and you can see through it. I am so excited. Building water loop this week


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ScurK*


I just got the red primochill tubing yesterday... it is REALLY sexy, and you can see through it. I am so excited. Building water loop this week










good deal,that's the same tubing i have,great stuff.


----------



## Lost-boi

Black hose is where its at! You cant see the water at all!


----------



## mbudden

When I do go with tubing, it will be either white or blue. Gigabyte colors.


----------



## kikis

My First Watercooled System Build...


----------



## PeaceMaker

nice photography... nice setup too.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Oh wow, how long have the Fatal1ty boards been out?


----------



## koven

it's been available since a few weeks ago... looks nice, why didnt you mount the rad internally though


----------



## lithgroth007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kikis*


My First Watercooled System Build...




























Im curious what your temps are like with that big of a load on a thin 240mm rad.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


it's been available since a few weeks ago... looks nice, why didnt you mount the rad internally though










I believe it would then rub against the ram retainer clips but not sure. seems like the case has holes on the top for that very purpose though. not sure if they are modded or not.


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lithgroth007*


Im curious what your temps are like with that big of a load on a thin 240mm rad.


You do realize that HWLabs(DangerDen)'s standard thickness 240mm radiators have a cooling capacity of ~700w. The BlackICE GTS model, that is.


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I believe it would then rub against the ram retainer clips but not sure. seems like the case has holes on the top for that very purpose though. not sure if they are modded or not.


 just noticed it kind of looks like a haf 912 so in that case (no pun intended), no internal rad mounting


----------



## oblivion.sky

i haven't been around for a while but this is my last work.
and the scarlet ofcourse








































































And the July MOTM winner, noone other than Ms.Scarlet


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*


i haven't been around for a while but this is my last work.
and the scarlet ofcourse





























*steals*


----------



## lithgroth007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *x Yoko*


You do realize that HWLabs(DangerDen)'s standard thickness 240mm radiators have a cooling capacity of ~700w. The BlackICE GTS model, that is.


With what fans though? BlackIce GTS rads have very high fin density and will only dissipate that much heat with good fans.


----------



## sprower

Great thread! I've been reading through every page over the last few months while planning my loop. Coincidentally I just wrapped it up and my parts will be showing up within the next day or so.









I've been sketching out and designing a butcher block topped in-desk build (more like dining table.. hard to find a used desk that a Lay-Z-Boy will partially recline under







) with a window view into the desktop revealing the components inside.

With the exception of hardware/pc components I'm shooting for 100% recycled materials for the desk consisting mostly of dilapidated furniture. If the wife asks.. recycled materials to help our boys to learn an important lesson... but we all know it was so I could afford the bitspower compression fittings.









EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel
x2 EK-FC6970 Acetal + Nickel 
Tygon 3603 1/2" ID (3/4" OD)
Bitspower High Flow Compression Fitting
FrozenQ Liquid Fusion 400 ml Reservoir
Swiftech MCP655
GT AP-14 push/pull
Black Ice GTX480
Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Mod Kit
Bitspower D5 Mod Pump Top V2
Distilled+killcoil

Work log soon to come!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Ya this is a photo gallery not a spex gallery









OREGON BOY!


----------



## sprower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


Ya this is a photo gallery not a spex gallery









OREGON BOY!


Ah right! Thanks for my first rep anyway!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


Ah right! Thanks for my first rep anyway!










Oregon boys got to stick together


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12234795*
> just noticed it kind of looks like a haf 912 so in that case (no pun intended), no internal rad mounting


My thoughts exactly...


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lithgroth007*


With what fans though? BlackIce GTS rads have very high fin density and will only dissipate that much heat with good fans.


30FPI, to be exact. I use the SS-AP121's for mine - Not sure about him. Most fans with decent pressure turn that rad into a real performer.

But who's to say that's even a HWLabs(DD)? Mind you, they are about the only ones (other than Koolance) to make radiators in that thickness.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kikis*


My First Watercooled System Build...




















Damn. I didn't know silver coils worked that way.


----------



## Lost-boi

I was wondering the same thing. Why take pics with the coil just sitting there? Put that sucker in there!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

holy bent PCB, Batman!


----------



## Kahbrohn

5 lb. sledge hammer will straighten that thing right out!


----------



## bundymania

It looks just like this coz the angle from which I have photographed it so keep relaxed and look at diz now


----------



## kromar

my new water cooling gear is on its way here, cant wait to build that thing
however, i ordered a fill port and when i got my HAF-X i realized there is not really a place where i can install it:O
i was thinking about drilling a hole in the top or something like that but not sure if the routing of the tube will work and such things. anyone has seen or has a HAF-X with a top fill port or has an idea how/where i could install it?


----------



## 808MP5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12245178*


i'm just wondering if you plan on putting the return hose on the top of that reservoir... if so you will have a magical bubble maker... and a lot of noise from it(running water sound)... unless and if and only if you top it off completely...

how do i know? i have one of my return lines entering a reservoir from the top and it took a while to top it off... and that sir was a miracle and took some patients... honestly it took a lot of bumping, tube squeezing, and who know what... i don't even remember how I did it..

if your the adventurous type try it... if not flip that res over... sure i could have did a longer tube run... but the way i did it looks so much cooler


----------



## JRHudson

*this is how cold my house was!* 








i live in a older house here in texas and this is how cold the office where my computer is. burrr man, bur.


----------



## zionic

Nothing special, but I got an H50 in my mATX build. Thought I'd share and join.


----------



## wermad

Any got the EK ram block?


----------



## mbudden

I don't see why people waste their money on RAM water blocks.


----------



## KillerBeaz

for the looks


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I don't see why people waste their money on RAM water blocks.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *KillerBeaz*


for the looks


This^^^


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Any got the EK ram block?






looks just like the mips ramcooler 6 block only without the center mounting points. If it came in nickel I would definitely swap my mips out for that so it matches my supreme hf

edit: i wc my ram bc the corsair ram fan is straight up ghetto and loud plus I have rad exhaust blowing straight on my first dim. plus it looks cool (the real reason)


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Check this out:

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....1557874&page=7

For the most part yes it is for looks


----------



## PulkPull

I am done.


----------



## RushMore1205

^^^ looks super nice man, contgrats


----------



## The_Punisher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JRHudson*


*this is how cold my house was!* 








i live in a older house here in texas and this is how cold the office where my computer is. burrr man, bur.


hahahah sounds like my office. I live about an hour north of houston and the tech shop where I work was about 62F for most of the day.

That's OT I know, so I will say that this is my favorite thread on OCN, soo much WC pr0n! Hope to be adding my pics to this thread once I finish my build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

IMO, ram blocks don't look good, so the looks argument is invalid...


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

IMO, ram blocks don't look good, so the looks argument is invalid...


ok so they dont look good and dont do anything ... case closed, people stop buying them and stop wasting your money


----------



## kikis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lithgroth007*


Im curious what your temps are like with that big of a load on a thin 240mm rad.


CPU:2500k @ 4.6 Ghz (1.38 V)
Idle (33) Load (55)

GPU: GTX 580 @ (Core Clock-910/Shader Clock-1820/Mem Clock-2200)
Idle (30) Load (37)


----------



## x Yoko

^ That's pretty damn good. My Q9550 @ 4.25 ran a little below that on my BI-240GTS


----------



## Qcgold

Ok. So here is my first custom wc loop/custom case. It is not over yet. There used to be a 200mm fan on front pannel so gonna need to get some more acrylic and redo front panel.... maybe even redo whole case. And obviously better cable management and sleeving incoming. But needless to say, I had alot of fun doing it so far. Comments appreciated































































Edit: Here's the specs
CPU block: EK LT plexi/nickel
GPU block: FC6870 plexi/nickel x2 
Pump: EK DCP 4.0
Res: EK 250 basic
Rad: XSPC RX360
Fans: Yate Loon with Zalman controller
Tubing: TFC UV blue
Fittings: TFC straight compression + 1x BP 90


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

IMO, ram blocks don't look good, so the looks argument is invalid...


Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I personally never liked the looks of the HK










Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


ok so they dont look good and dont do anything ... case closed, people stop buying them and stop wasting your money


Some of us have money to burn, so yeah


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Some of us have money to burn, so yeah










Yuppie!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qcgold*


Ok. So here is my first custom wc loop/custom case. It is not over yet. There used to be a 200mm fan on front pannel so gonna need to get some more acrylic and redo front panel.... maybe even redo whole case. And obviously better cable management and sleeving incoming. But needless to say, I had alot of fun doing it so far. Comments appreciated










I like the case and the loop nice work!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Some of us have money to burn, so yeah










How about watercooling your watercooling setup? Like put a cylindrical res inside of a bigger cylindrical res that is on its own separate loop to just cool down the water in the bigger res.


----------



## 808MP5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


ok so they dont look good and dont do anything ... case closed, people stop buying them and stop wasting your money


????

we just need to stick to the facts... and i agree they probably don't do anything... and that's all that needs to be said about it... unless the person is asking for technical advice such as installation and troubleshooting... let the person decide for themselves if they want it or not...

isn't 98% of what we spend our money on a waste... if it's not crucial to survival then technically its a waste

a majority of us here are guilty of wasting money on our hobbies... you need to spend money to make money... but if you don't make any money from it then who's to judge if it was a waste or not

does your computer bring you any type of income?

i can honestly say mine doesn't so my whole set up is a complete waste of money... but i enjoyed doing it... to top it off it wastes a lot of electricity in the process which is a waste of money

isn't it all just a waste of money regardless of what you buy... as soon as we buy any computer part it loses it's value and in the end is a waste

i just find it funny when ppl say your wasting your money... 
there is a difference between need and want... who cares who wastes their money or not.. it's there money...

lol i should get the next award for a complete waste of money setup


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


It looks just like this coz the angle from which I have photographed it so keep relaxed and look at diz now











so is THAT why my pc wont post??


----------



## M0E

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*


i haven't been around for a while but this is my last work.
and the scarlet ofcourse



















Could someone tell me what CPU block this is?


----------



## itcrashed

My updated rig!


----------



## sprower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


Check this out:

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....1557874&page=7

For the most part yes it is for looks


Nice! I've only seen a couple of those and that's by far the best I've seen yet.

My build will be along the same lines but my monitors will be mounted to a hutch/shelving on the back of the desk.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M0E*


Could someone tell me what CPU block this is?


Alphacool Yellowstone

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Al...61366_846.html


----------



## ScurK

Most of my water cooling has arrived - only missing laing ddc 18 watt with xspc top, and a swiftech microres. Said parts will arrive today!









Here's a little teaser picture. Not the best but here goes anyway!
*EDIT* my uploading service is down at the moment so no pictures.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PulkPull;12252250*
> I am done.


NICE!!!!!!

Post results and such! That is a lot of cooling in there and all very nicely set up. I also like the black theme.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qcgold;12254190*


I like the picture in the background, but you should put it in a frame.


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

Pink Floyd is the business.

Just ordered the parts to my loop. Pretty excited.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Are the WC blocks for the gtx 580 also compatible with the gtx 570 ?


----------



## 4.54billionyears

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;12258943*
> Are the WC blocks for the gtx 580 also compatible with the gtx 570 ?


it looks like ek waterblocks are gtx 570/580 compatible. source
yes


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:
it looks like ek waterblocks are gtx 570/580 compatible. source
yes

Thanks for the info.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itcrashed;12255614*
> My updated rig![/img]


Looks awesome... get rid of those ram fans









I had the same over my ram but figured I'd remove it... less noise and... only 3 slots taken up there was not a whole lot of heat. maybe if I had all 6 ddr3 slots taken I'd keep but... that's just me.

Looks great.


----------



## Oh You Did

im really noob to water cooling and dont know how to set it up right. some help would be nice. thanks.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oh You Did;12259469*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im really noob to water cooling and dont know how to set it up right. some help would be nice. thanks.


You have a leak over the block or something?

I'm new to this as well... relatively... but one rule I fallow & recommend you do as well is... do not over tighten (aside from the rule that you should leak test first)









If stuff leaks... shut it off if you did not leak test first... then tighten some more. So on & so fort.

If you use those cheap screw in barbs... there is lots of room for error to either over tighten or not tight enough.

I use these clamps ... they are AWESOME.


----------



## markag

It's a little hard to tell, but it looks like your loop is setup alright. The only thing that you may want to change is the order. It looks like you are going Res>Pump>CPU>Radiator>Res. If I were you, I would go from the pump to the radiator, then from the radiator to the CPU. The pump adds some heat to the water, so sending it to the radiator before the CPU would allow the radiator to dissipate that heat. The coolest water in the loop will be going to your CPU then.


----------



## smokiez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markag;12259771*
> It's a little hard to tell, but it looks like your loop is setup alright. The only thing that you may want to change is the order. It looks like you are going Res>Pump>CPU>Radiator>Res. If I were you, I would go from the pump to the radiator, then from the radiator to the CPU. The pump adds some heat to the water, so sending it to the radiator before the CPU would allow the radiator to dissipate that heat. The coolest water in the loop will be going to your CPU then.


Nice HAF X rig. I love that case but I also love my Cosmos. I wish there was a case that was the mean look of HAF X but the top panel of my black Cosmos. That would be perfect


----------



## dryg

A little update.
Finally got some Scythe fans, but the CPU power cable is blocking the way and I had to use a slim.










I don't have any screws that could hold it so I used tape ;D

Going to remove the honeycomb on the top for improved airflow from the middle fan.










Also adding some green cathodes on the side of them and inside.

Current to do list:
Green tubing
45 degree fittings
XSPC D5 Bayres
Green cathodes

I have ordered everything but its out of stock.

Also need a real camera and not a crappy iPhail


----------



## smokiez

Cheap shrouds









I was about to order a bunch of $20 shrouds... then came across a post mentioning you can just use unused cheap fans by ripping them out and smoothing things out so... knowing it would be an impossible task







I put my dremel to use:



















I'm proud of my uber hard work!







jk.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokiez;12259712*
> You have a leak over the block or something?
> 
> I'm new to this as well... relatively... but one rule I fallow & recommend you do as well is... do not over tighten (aside from the rule that you should leak test first)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If stuff leaks... shut it off if you did not leak test first... then tighten some more. So on & so fort.
> 
> If you use those cheap screw in barbs... there is lots of room for error to either over tighten or not tight enough.
> 
> I use these clamps ... they are AWESOME.


leak test? what is that?







I always put everything together "properly" and hope for the best. It's worked out great for years now. I would definitely suggest it for those who aren't 100% confident with their work.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dryg*


A little update.
Finally got some Scythe fans, but the CPU power cable is blocking the way and I had to use a slim.










I don't have any screws that could hold it so I used tape ;D

Going to remove the honeycomb on the top for improved airflow from the middle fan.
Also adding some green cathodes on the side of them and inside.

Current to do list:
Green tubing
45 degree fittings
XSPC D5 Bayres
Green cathodes

I have ordered everything but its out of stock.

Also need a real camera and not a crappy iPhail


That's why I did not go with HAF-X. Its a very tight squeeze for push/pull with a thick rad. Which rad do you have btw?


----------



## smokiez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


leak test? what is that?







I always put everything together "properly" and hope for the best. It's worked out great for years now. I would definitely suggest it for those who aren't 100% confident with their work.


You know... each time I take apart or revise my loop and don't touch my CPU block knowing it does not leak... I don't leak test









There comes a point when you know that the fittings & clamps that you use will yield a leak-proof seal 99% of the time.

The only time I ran the loop outside of my system was the 1st time I ever bought the components.

If I ever changed out my CPU block... that would be a case where I'd try & leak test it first before it's mounted on the CPU.

So yeah I break the one little rule & just power off my system quick if I see some funky business


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


leak test? what is that?







I always put everything together "properly" and hope for the best. It's worked out great for years now. I would definitely suggest it for those who aren't 100% confident with their work.


As have I, however a couple of days ago when I installed my new EK CPU block I chose to leak test first and it paid off. Turns out that one of the o-rings on my radiator was messed up and I had to drain the loop and take it apart twice just to fix the damn thing. Hadn't been leaking at all the few days earlier when I was running my old CPU block though. Murphy's law I guess.


----------



## ShortySmalls

i haven't ever did a real leak test, the first time i setup watercooling i powered it up with everything installed mobo gpu it all cept just all unpluged and psu jumped, but i got tired of watching water go though tubes after about 5 min so i hooked it up and started to oc!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Should I add my HW Labs Black Ice 240mm to my loop? It doesn't look like it's going to be sold anytime soon so I might as well make some use for it. Thinking about mounting it on the rear after the CPU and before the GPU's. I have tubing just need fittings.


----------



## dryg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


That's why I did not go with HAF-X. Its a very tight squeeze for push/pull with a thick rad. Which rad do you have btw?


I got a XSPC RX360


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dryg*


I got a XSPC RX360


yup, that was my rad too, I went to a store and measured the X. It was not going to fit w/ push/pull standard 25mm fans. Heck even my corsair has about 5mm of clearance with this setup. This is the reason why I went external for the top fans. Sadly, the unique molding and top of the X made adding a fan shroud difficult. I learned that lesson when I failed in modding my old 932 with a Koolance shroud (some one did it but it a took a bit of customization). I think a less thick rad will work if you don't plan on going sli with that setup (ie RS360 and the like). Nice build btw


----------



## dryg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


yup, that was my rad too, I went to a store and measured the X. It was not going to fit w/ push/pull standard 25mm fans. Heck even my corsair has about 5mm of clearance with this setup. This is the reason why I went external for the top fans. Sadly, the unique molding and top of the X made adding a fan shroud difficult. I learned that lesson when I failed in modding my old 932 with a Koolance shroud (some one did it but it a took a bit of customization). I think a less thick rad will work if you don't plan on going sli with that setup (ie RS360 and the like). Nice build btw










Thanks its my first loop. Got the HAF X before I even considered watercooling.
My original plan was to get another 480, but now with the 500 series and me being low on money I'm considering waiting untill DX12 comes out..
Temps are pretty nice, 40C full load with 908MHz and 1,138V, though I turned of the heating in my room and its -35 outside.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dryg*


Thanks its my first loop. Got the HAF X before I even considered watercooling.
My original plan was to get another 480, but now with the 500 series and me being low on money I'm considering waiting untill DX12 comes out..
Temps are pretty nice, 40C full load with 908MHz and 1,138V, though I turned of the heating in my room and its -35 outside.


I'm jealous of your temps


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

I'ld like to join the club!


































Setup: Haf X case, Liquid fusin V series 400m res, Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-flow rad, 3 YL 120 (bottom mounted) and 3 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm (top mounted) on rad, MCP355 pump, Koolance NX-460 Block, and Apogee XT Extreme Cpu block.

Stock temps 010c-11c and full load after 1 hour 30c. This is my first WC setup and wow what a diffference it made just at stock. Now ill see what i can get the i7 980X up tp.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Wow, didn't think that big of a radiator could fit in a HAF-X.

Nice job though.


----------



## zionic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Wow, didn't think that big of a radiator could fit in a HAF-X.

Nice job though.


That's why mods are fun! Pretty much anything is possible. And if there was no mod... win-win!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*


I'ld like to join the club!

Setup: Haf X case, Liquid fusin V series 400m res, Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-flow rad, 3 YL 120 (bottom mounted) and 3 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm (top mounted) on rad, MCP355 pump, Koolance NX-460 Block, and Apogee XT Extreme Cpu block.

Stock temps 010c-11c and full load after 1 hour 30c. This is my first WC setup and wow what a diffference it made just at stock. Now ill see what i can get the i7 980X up tp.


Finally someone else with an epically huge helix res like me! How are you getting those temps? is that over ambient temps? 10c is impossible unless you're in the bitter cold or have a chilled loop.


----------



## sgilmore62

It looks like there is tubing connected to the bottom of that frozenQ helix res. is it possible to connect fittings at the bottom and the top of that res?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


It looks like there is tubing connected to the bottom of that frozenQ helix res. is it possible to connect fittings at the bottom and the top of that res?


yes, there is one at the top and two at the bottom. Mine has 4 at the bottom since I had him drill side ports


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Finally someone else with an epically huge helix res like me! How are you getting those temps? is that over ambient temps? 10c is impossible unless you're in the bitter cold or have a chilled loop.


My room is about 71f but I am using the indigo extreme eti kit. It pretty pricey but once you put it on you run the CPU at full load for like 2 mins without the water pump on to burn it into the processor. It gets the cores to 90c then drops down by 10-15c. Then you shut off load and start pump, and now 10c idle temp


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


It looks like there is tubing connected to the bottom of that frozenQ helix res. is it possible to connect fittings at the bottom and the top of that res?


Ya one side has two ports and one on the other. I used the two on top one to my fill port and one from the rad. And the bottom goes to the pump.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;12266076*
> My room is about 71f but I am using the indigo extreme eti kit. It pretty pricey but once you put it on you run the CPU at full load for like 2 mins without the water pump on to burn it into the processor. It gets the cores to 90c then drops down by 10-15c. Then you shut off load and start pump, and now 10c idle temp


I use that TIM also love it!
Better check your temp program 10c is 50F that's 21F below ambient. Somethings not reading right.


----------



## thrasherht

What do you guys think would be the next best upgrade for my sig rig?
I was thinking about getting new fans for my rad, or getting a block for my GPU. what do you think?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;12266139*
> I use that TIM also love it!
> Better check your temp program 10c is 50F that's 21F below ambient. Somethings not reading right.


That's what I thought right away. I primarily use adia64 extreme,I just checked with real temp (same),and core temp (same). While downloading and installing the other programs my temp got to 22c but is the same with all off them. if I put the ultra kaze fan only going half speed, then I idle at 15c.


----------



## alancsalt

Its against the laws of physics for your cpu to go under ambient, even for the slightest amount of time. You have to get dry ice, ln2, ice, phase-change, a chiller, or a tec for sub-ambient cooling, i say faulty sensor.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Maybe, I know with when I had the ultra chillTEC my idle was 21c but then again it had the tec too. But from what I read on it the tec only kicked in at a higher temp. I'll have to see what my bios says as far as temp


----------



## koven

some pics of my 700d loop.. 2600k+570 on a rx360

http://img703.imageshack.us/g/97065027.jpg/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12266502*
> Its against the laws of physics for your cpu to go under ambient, even for the slightest amount of time. You have to get dry ice, ln2, ice, phase-change, a chiller, or a tec for sub-ambient cooling, i say faulty sensor.


my old phenom II 555be would idle @ 14c w/ ambients @ 24c. My 955 would idle @ 35c, same mb, CHIVF. Both on the same supreme hf im using now, though my bloomfield idles @ 40c


----------



## Rognus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;12266076*
> My room is about 71f but I am using the indigo extreme eti kit. It pretty pricey but once you put it on you run the CPU at full load for like 2 mins without the water pump on to burn it into the processor. It gets the cores to 90c then drops down by 10-15c. Then you shut off load and start pump, and now 10c idle temp


Lets see a screen shot of those temps.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognus;12267274*
> Lets see a screen shot of those temps.


I,ll get some screen shots up in the morning. I'm thinking somethings off cause I checked my bios and it's showing 21c-22c.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Could just be a dodgy sensor on the board.


----------



## M0E

For 3 GPUs is 1 XSPC RX240 enough?


----------



## MRHANDS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12266657*


That is perfection. Hats off to you sir!


----------



## amantonas

It might be, but I would get a 360 to be safe. You will not see optimal temps with just a 240. Especially if you're cooling a CPU as well.


----------



## M0E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amantonas;12267995*
> It might be, but I would get a 360 to be safe. You will not see optimal temps with just a 240. Especially if you're cooling a CPU as well.


No CPU, just 3 GPU. I may be able to do a thin 240 up top of case and a thick 240 on bottom, but if 1 240 is plenty I may just do 1.


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0E;12268021*
> No CPU, just 3 GPU. I may be able to do a thin 240 up top of case and a thick 240 on bottom, but if 1 240 is plenty I may just do 1.


A thick 240 will probably be sufficient for 3 GPUs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0E;12267939*
> For 3 GPUs is 1 XSPC RX240 enough?


It will work but as others have said, get a 360, if your planning to add the cpu, go w/ a 480 instead.


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MRHANDS;12267989*
> That is perfection. Hats off to you sir!


thanks


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12266717*
> my old phenom II 555be would idle @ 14c w/ ambients @ 24c. My 955 would idle @ 35c, same mb, CHIVF. Both on the same supreme hf im using now, though my bloomfield idles @ 40c


Temp sensors are notoriously inaccurate at idle for both AMD and Intel. Doesn't matter what your sensor says, it's against the laws of physics. This has been argued ad infinitum all over this board. Just google it.


----------



## RushMore1205

i agree with 2 gpu plus cpu deffinatly a 360 at least, im building my rig right now, and i will be runing 2x240mm, plus a 2 120mm rads that are stacked, both 240mm rads are thick rads, so techniclay i will have 600mm of rad that are thick, and thats i think is a little overkill, but i have a nb/sb also


----------



## ElectrixPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12251793*
> looks just like the mips ramcooler 6 block only without the center mounting points. If it came in nickel I would definitely swap my mips out for that so it matches my supreme hf
> 
> edit: i wc my ram bc the corsair ram fan is straight up ghetto and loud plus I have rad exhaust blowing straight on my first dim. plus it looks cool (the real reason)


does anybody know whether this would work with my xms3 ram?

or how about vengeance ram?


----------



## seven7thirty30

New to the forum. Here's my rig. It's a tight squeeze into my modest Antec 300. Adding an additional Asus TOP/EAH HD5850 with EK Acrylic Block to the loop soon.

Loop: RES/PUMP - 240 Black Ice RAD - CPU - MOBO Block - 184 Black Ice RAD - Video Cards - RES/PUMP


----------



## ErBall

nvm


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seven7thirty30;12273264*
> New to the forum. Here's my rig. It's a tight squeeze into my modest Antec 300. Adding an additional Asus TOP/EAH HD5850 with EK Acrylic Block to the loop soon.
> 
> Loop: RES/PUMP - 240 Black Ice RAD - CPU - MOBO Block - 184 Black Ice RAD - Video Cards - RES/PUMP


Nice rig, sad all the blocks are getting dye treatment









Switch to some colored tubing instead.


----------



## seven7thirty30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12273281*
> Nice rig, sad all the blocks are getting dye treatment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switch to some colored tubing instead.


It's Koolance fluid. I had the same stuff in my first HTPC rig and never had any corrosion, build-up, or residue..even after 3 years.


----------



## ErBall

excuse the doggy toys


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;12273410*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> excuse the doggy toys


What would look really good are sata cables the color of the fan blades... ;-)

Then sleeve the rest. you have a sweet setup there.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## [CyGnus]

Little update, better cable management and some leds on my CH4 Theme WC:


----------



## skmanu

Hi all,

Some pics of my WC loop, post apocalyptic one!
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1640509


----------



## Yukss

skmanu said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Some pics of my WC loop, post apocalyptic one!
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1640509
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice rig dude seriusly.. looks badass like stay away "BIOHAZARD"


----------



## skmanu

Thanks!

As you can see, no need of a reservoir, it's all in the left radiator.
And the total cost ain't bad either:
WB: €35
Pump:€45
Tubing:€5
Fans:€20
Rads: €0
MadMax Rig: PRICELESS!!


----------



## [CyGnus]

well there is nothing beautiful about it... But it gets the job done.







like the idea of the 3rd rad on the front heheh i think i can fit one 240 in my case too


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skmanu*


Hi all,
Some pics of my WC loop, post apocalyptic one!


Wholly MotoCross Apocalypse Batman!!


----------



## Kahbrohn

This looks like... I don't know... anyone remember that series called "Junkyard Wars"? Was this featured on one of those episodes or something?

Kidding aside skmanu... all though I do not go for that kind of look, I do have to admit it. nice job! Very very original!

You used the word "apocalyptic"... I's call this rig the Mad Max Edition!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skmanu*


Hi all,

Some pics of my WC loop, post apocalyptic one!
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1640509


----------



## mbudden

Good job with what you have lying around.


----------



## Kahbrohn

I am just surprised he didn't use duct tape to give it an even more... uhhh... "rustic" look!


----------



## skmanu

Thank you all.
It took me quite a while to finish, as I finally got the motorbike rads yesterday...

I agree that it is far from the "beauty standard",but, well, I really like it


----------



## skmanu

Hey Kahbrohn, actually there is some: have a look between the two front fans...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Hey... this is all about individual preferences. I honestly like what you did. Looks cool. Should think about painting the rest of the case to match.

Are those side rads functional or just for show?


----------



## skmanu

They both work. The left one is used as a reservoir:


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Hey... this is all about individual preferences. I honestly like what you did. Looks cool.


I feel the same. It's pretty epic in it's own way!


----------



## alancsalt

Now that's a fillport!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

that is cool, take the set off my KTM and use them for the winter, because I don't ride it much in the winter anyways


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

Hahaha the Mad Max WC setup on the previous page is my favorite. So awesome.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Added the Swiftech GTZ block to the loop and a 1x120 X-Flow


----------



## skmanu

Classy!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

looks good, That overkill grill inside the case has always made me laugh


----------



## nickbaldwin86

tttthhanks


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skmanu;12282040*
> Thank you all.
> It took me quite a while to finish, as I finally got the motorbike rads yesterday...
> 
> I agree that it is far from the "beauty standard",but, well, I really like it:guitar:


i love it lol. personal i would never do it as im all about the looks lol but hey it seams to kick ass in the performance department


----------



## skmanu

It works quite well, and as soon as you are used to the look:wheee:


----------



## ugotd8

Here's mine. Max 60c on prime with CPU @ 4.8GHz with 1.41V load. Nothing earth shattering, but I'm happy. It's finally (almost) silent. Still got a couple things to do, a little sleeving, a new passively cooled video card and some fan grills. The RV02 is rather underrated as a WC case, I was able to put my SR1-360 at the bottom and still keep the dust filters.


----------



## RushMore1205

^^^
what brand is that sleeve?

nice looking build man


----------



## Mongol

resized so I don't get yelled at:





































Gratuitous TF2 shot:










I'm debating sleeving my tubing...and apparently, my mobo drops 2 lanes down to x8 in 3way SLI...lame.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12286831*
> resized so I don't get yelled at:
> 
> I'm debating sleeving my tubing...and apparently, my mobo drops 2 lanes down to x8 in 3way SLI...lame.


I wouldn't worry about it. The 480 isn't even effected in performance by an x4 slot, let along an x8 slot. You lose nothing.

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2010/08/25/gtx_480_sli_pcie_bandwidth_perf_x16x16_vs_x4x4

take a look at that.


----------



## Mongol

Yeah, that's nothing, but I do get occasional hiccups @ 5760x1080.

(LOL..I know it's as useful as a poop chute on your elbow, but my WEI went to 7.6 3way from 7.9 2way)

I'mma stop the QQ and go feed my cat.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12286603*
> ^^^
> what brand is that sleeve?
> 
> nice looking build man


(If you were talking to me...)









Thanks.

I cheated and used this: http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0340942

and this: http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0340952

Not bad quality for the price.


----------



## TheSchlaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12286996*
> Yeah, that's nothing, but I do get occasional hiccups @ 5760x1080.
> 
> (LOL..I know it's as useful as a poop chute on your elbow, but my WEI went to 7.6 3way from 7.9 2way)
> 
> I'mma stop the QQ and go feed my cat.


What kind of lights are at the bottom of the case (the red ones)?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSchlaf;12287057*
> What kind of lights are at the bottom of the case (the red ones)?


I think those are razer LEDs.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSchlaf;12287057*
> What kind of lights are at the bottom of the case (the red ones)?


Possibly red CCFL's or red LED's but I'm assuming CCFL's.


----------



## Mongol

@ ugotd8: lol...looks like I'm just as muh of a cheater as you are.

@ TheSchlaf, it's these:

I'mma firin' mah lazorz!


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12287078*
> Possibly red CCFL's or red LED's but I'm assuming CCFL's.


red leds.









I'm not a fan of inverters.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12287088*
> red leds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a fan of inverters.


I relooked at your photos and seen individual lights... Then I realized I was wrong


----------



## thrasherht

My bad, Lazer LEDs

http://www.xoxide.com/redlazledlig.html


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12287080*
> I'mma firin' mah lazorz!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12287116*
> My bad, Lazer LEDs
> 
> http://www.xoxide.com/redlazledlig.html


The ones he posted has 5 LED's vs the 3 LED's.


----------



## thrasherht

Happy?

http://www.xoxide.com/jumbo-lazer-led-red.html


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12287080*
> @ ugotd8: lol...looks like I'm just as muh of a cheater as you are.


Here's to hoping noone farts in our general direction.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12287145*
> Happy?
> 
> http://www.xoxide.com/jumbo-lazer-led-red.html










lol


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12287159*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Jease. LOL.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8;12287146*
> Here's to hoping noone farts in our general direction.


lol...it's alright, I'll send an unladen European swallow after them.


----------



## Whaler69

Pics of my Sandy Bridge build.


----------



## x Yoko

And, in a never-ending attempt to better my rig. I present these, showing only a few minor changes. Some more sleeved stuff, routed things differently, etc.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whaler69;12287396*
> Pics of my Sandy Bridge build.


Why would you use dye in your coolant if you have white tubing?


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12288439*
> Why would you use dye in your coolant if you have white tubing?


I was wondering that as well.


----------



## [email protected]

Yellow.. is bad luck


----------



## Kahbrohn

So the res looks cool.


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12288462*
> Yellow.. is bad luck


My preferred "green" lost two weeks ago, so luck is out of the question here. Anyways, it's not too often you find a black/yellow rig...and now I can see why. It's impossible to find yellow cathodes and yellow liquid. In retrospect, I should have gone with yellow LED's. But it's not too late. Maybe I'll look into it.


----------



## Mongol

I'm so glad i used plain old distilled.
I can't imagine the muck those dyes are gonna leave behind...like radioactive splooge.


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12288589*
> I'm so glad i used plain old distilled.
> I can't imagine the muck those dyes are gonna leave behind...like radioactive splooge.


Quite honestly, it's easy to get out with hot water and vinegar. Drain the loop, fill it up with hot water and some white vinegar, let it cycle. Empty - repeat, and again if needed. Clear tubing + colored liquid always seems to work better (for aesthetics) than colored tubing + clear liquid.


----------



## Whaler69

It's not dye. It's the swiftech hydro stuff. I put it in because I can't get pt nuke in Canada and at the pet stor I stared at a shelf of 50 different products and couldn't tell which was the right stuff to act ad a biocide. I could care less about the green color but that's how it comes.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whaler69;12288775*
> It's not dye. It's the swiftech hydro stuff. I put it in because I can't get pt nuke in Canada and at the pet stor I stared at a shelf of 50 different products and couldn't tell which was the right stuff to act ad a biocide. I could care less about the green color but that's how it comes.


You really honestly believe that isn't dye? If it isn't dye, how is it coloring the water? when you can tell me that, then I will say it isn't dye.


----------



## Whaler69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12288972*
> You really honestly believe that isn't dye? If it isn't dye, how is it coloring the water? when you can tell me that, then I will say it isn't dye.


Well I honestly believe your an idiot. Nice comment, lots of positive in there. I added it for protection not the dye. If there is green dye in it then so be it.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whaler69;12289073*
> Well I honestly believe your an idiot. Nice comment, lots of positive in there. I added it for protection not the dye. If there is green dye in it then so be it.


You do know that dye is bad for your system. You only need biocide, so anything like a killcoil or copper sulfate. The dye will clog up your blocks and stain your tubing. If you have all copper in your loop you don't have to worry about corrosion, or anything else, just something to keep away the critters.

Put a Canadian pure silver dollar in your res, that will do just fine.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;12288183*
> And, in a never-ending attempt to better my rig. I present these, showing only a few minor changes. Some more sleeved stuff, routed things differently, etc.


man everytime i see these cases i want to cry, i want one so bad, but no money lol


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12289106*
> You do know that dye is bad for your system. You only need biocide, so anything like a killcoil or copper sulfate. The dye will clog up your blocks and stain your tubing. If you have all copper in your loop you don't have to worry about corrosion, or anything else, just something to keep away the critters.
> 
> Put a Canadian pure silver dollar in your res, that will do just fine.


*rolls eyes* He said he can't get that there plus I used Hydrx for a while and no problems. So many people just believe what other people feed them and never try it them selves.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fastsite;12289227*
> *rolls eyes* He said he can't get that there plus I used Hydrx for a while and no problems. So many people just believe what other people feed them.


I have seen the dye does, and it makes sense why it doesn't that. You are suspending pigment in a liquid, it is going to separate over time and get stuck in your block. Your blocks are like little filters.

No, he said that he looked and there were tons of options so he didn't bother finding the right one.

You can use something that is pure silver such as a silver coin. I know of another guy that uses a Canadian silver dollar.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12289263*
> No, he said that he looked and there were tons of options so he didn't bother finding the right one.










True I misunderstood.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

a simple koolance in-line filter solves a majority of colored coolant problems, except for staining. It just needs to be cleaned out monthly


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12289263*
> *
> You can use something that is pure silver such as a silver coin. I know of another guy that uses a Canadian silver dollar.*


Just make sure you clean it and make sure it's disinfected etc before you put it in your loop.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12289760*
> Just make sure you clean it and make sure it's disinfected etc before you put it in your loop.


Silver is a natural toxin to living things. So you wouldn't really need to worry about that, just clean it of dirt of any kind.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12289895*
> Silver is a natural toxin to living things. So you wouldn't really need to worry about that, just clean it of dirt of any kind.


That's what I meant, clean off anything foreign that shouldn't be there.


----------



## Mongol

Lol...oops...I didnt mean to start a debate.


----------



## velocd

Keep forgetting to post here, been too busy. Completed 1st water cooling last week. Smooth sailing so far.







Much props to the OCN water cooling community which aided 90% of my learning.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocd;12291219*
> Keep forgetting to post here, been too busy. Completed 1st water cooling last week. Smooth sailing so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much props to the OCN water cooling community which aided 90% of my learning.


amazing!! even more so that its ya first crack at w/cooling, good job:grouphug:


----------



## CH4PZ

I've actually been subbed to this for a while and its by far the best thread around!! although havent commented much(geez, stalk much?) bin dying to join so thought i'd throw up these VERY temporary loop, as i pulled everything apart before realizing the initial plan wasnt, er, going to plan, but i will throw some updated shotz after some very special upgrades take place


----------



## Onions

man i wish i had a camera XD and time to put my psu back into cable management XD maybe once i finish the second computer with water ill put pics of both up. I have been stalking this thread since page 547 and i must say daaaaaaaaaaaauuuuuuuuuuuum at some of those builds







As for the dye situation i must say i have had Blood Red in my loop for over 2 months now and no problem at all.... a little staining but i dont mind it really. Another thing i would like to say is that people spend so much time on the little thing it brings a tear to my eye (happy tear)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Meh, I disagree mostly on the dye thing. Perhaps it just depends on what you use. I've always used a wee bit of car radiator fluid in my loop (it's green) and have never had any stains at all. It was running (water unchanged) for around 4 years in one of the spare computers we've got and didn't stain. Didn't clog up either.

If you have a restrictive waterblock then yeah it probably will clog up eventually. Lesser restrictive ones generally don't, or at least not for a very long time. I don't see all the fuss. Choose a dye carefully that by reputation doesn't stain, and just check in on your loop every so often and you'll be fine.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12289263*
> You can use something that is pure silver such as a silver coin. I know of another guy that uses a Canadian silver dollar.


Ha! And I was just now given a silver dime as part of my change at the gas station!

(sigh)


----------



## mbudden

God I love Black and White rigs.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12293822*
> God I love Black and White rigs.


B&W FTW:sniper:


----------



## Pis

Updated:


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pis;12295685*
> Updated:


You should really run your pumps in series, that one pump is drawing water from the rad and the intake is below it.


----------



## Onions

yay for raven cases







did you cut the back out for better flow? also i put my 240 rad on the bottom in the floor.... and modded the hd bays so i put my res in there


----------



## Lost-boi

Pis, you could get away with one pump and just the rear rad with just the CPU on the loop.
Is it just the picture or do you only have 2 out of 4 fans on that rear rad?


----------



## Pis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12295783*
> You should really run your pumps in series, that one pump is drawing water from the rad and the intake is below it.


Res -> Pump 1 -> Quad-rad -> Pump 2 -> dual-rad -> CPU block

I though my pumps in series







, confused...


----------



## Pis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12295789*
> yay for raven cases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you cut the back out for better flow? also i put my 240 rad on the bottom in the floor.... and modded the hd bays so i put my res in there


No, haha, I currently have 4 hdds, maybe i should change the case


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pis;12296197*
> Res -> Pump 1 -> Quad-rad -> Pump 2 -> dual-rad -> CPU block
> 
> I though my pumps in series
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , confused...


You should run it with being Res -> pump 1 -> pump 2 -> everything else -> res.


----------



## Pis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lost-boi;12295808*
> Pis, you could get away with one pump and just the rear rad with just the CPU on the loop.
> Is it just the picture or do you only have 2 out of 4 fans on that rear rad?


No, my loop need 2 pumps, easy to bleed, i already tested...









Oh about the fans, i have an issue with the cable management so, I put only 2 fans


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfarin88;9700926*
> I've browsed this thread dozen's of times, I just realized I've never posted in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my Lian Li build from last year:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech and BP blocks, 3x MCR220 rads, D5 pump.
> 
> Worklog here: Sleeper.


Despite the orange...i dub this computer: "Serious Black".


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;12297009*
> Despite the orange...i dub this computer: "Serious Black".


The orange isn't actually bad looking at all. I like the fact that the sleeving was left as black. The orange around the vent hole edge is a nice touch as well.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;12297009*
> Despite the orange...i dub this computer: "Serious Black".


Well in the pics it looks Yellow,Orange or Yellow either way.Nice rig,Bet it looks pretty cool lit up.Nice job.


----------



## Onions

i lvoe my raven XD everyone hates on it but only thing i would change to is a TJ11


----------



## koven

anyone seen any good phantom wc builds? it can fit a 360 up top w/ no mods right?

kind of tempted to get a white one for the next build


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pis;12296227*
> 
> Oh about the fans, i have an issue with the cable management so, I put only 2 fans


Should get a rad that suits your fans then







.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunchie;12298238*
> Should get a rad that suits your fans then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


what do you mean?

You don't have to run fans, it helps but you can also just run a radiator passive... If I didn't worry about overclocks I would remove all my annoying fans


----------



## kromar

i put my new WC setup together today, took me quite some time and after 8 or 9 years of running a Koolance exot this was quite an experience and the performance is AWESOME:cheers:


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kromar*


i put my new WC setup together today, took me quite some time and after 8 or 9 years of running a Koolance exot this was quite an experience







and the performance is AWESOME



















Loving the blue tubing. what brand is that?


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pis*


No, my loop need 2 pumps, easy to bleed, i already tested...










Why do you feel you "need" two pumps though?
I have more blocks and just as much rad as you with just a 355 pump pushing it all just fine. A 655 should be more than enough.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pis*


No, my loop need 2 pumps, easy to bleed, i already tested...









Oh about the fans, i have an issue with the cable management so, I put only 2 fans










your loop doesn't need two pumps. My loop doesn't even need two pumps and it's running much more than urs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lost-boi*


Why do you feel you "need" two pumps though?
I have more blocks and just as much rad as you with just a 355 pump pushing it all just fine. A 655 should be more than enough.


he's clueless or really screwed something up building the loop


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


your loop doesn't need two pumps. My loop doesn't even need two pumps and it's running much more than urs

he's clueless or really screwed something up building the loop


or he has to much money and doesn't understand the term overkill


----------



## wermad

Super Duper Pump(s) Overkill!!!1


----------



## AdvanSuper

I want that. NOW!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

not enough pump, double it and we have a deal


----------



## RushMore1205

what would u possibly want that for????

i have a mcp350 that runs my CPU, 2x GPU, 2x 240mmRAds, 2x 120mmRADS, NB/SB, what else could u possibly WC, 20 more GPUS lol


----------



## AdvanSuper

Haters gonna hate.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12298383*
> what do you mean?
> 
> You don't have to run fans, it helps but you can also just run a radiator passive... If I didn't worry about overclocks I would remove all my annoying fans


I know you don't _have_ too but, why _wouldn't_ you?


----------



## CH4PZ

yeh that things DDen double tower, SR-2, quad 580 territory!!!


----------



## kromar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12300432*
> Loving the blue tubing. what brand is that?


i have no idea what brand it is, its this one:
http://www.aquatuning.ch/product_info.php/info/p3341_Schlauch-PVC-15-9-11-1mm--7-16-ID--UV-aktiv-Blue.html

but i really can not recommend it, its really stiff and i had a hard time bending it and putting it over the fittings.


----------



## Pis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lost-boi;12301940*
> Why do you feel you "need" two pumps though?
> I have more blocks and just as much rad as you with just a 355 pump pushing it all just fine. A 655 should be more than enough.


I don't know, but my loop definitely better with 2 pumps, easy to bleed...


----------



## a5ian300zx

Hi,

Watercooled:
Ek Supreme HF with custom flow jet
EK Full Cover ATI 5770 water block - FC5770 Copper Black Acetal
Enzotech 1/2" black nickel compressions all round inc 45 degree
Phobya Balancer 250 Reservoir Black Nickel
D5 Laing pump + EK rev 2 fitment
Triple XSPC RX360 Rad + Enermax TB Silent fans
Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT 1/2" ID Tube
Koolance Drain Valve + adaptor (G14 to G14)
bitspowers Temp sensor (installed in res at hottest point i.e. back from the loop)
Lamptron 5 LED UV light
UV light G14 in Res

Pending
Lamptron UV spectrum
Finish connecting from Media lab bay
Custom Side Window Panel

I also have a wired remote control switch so I power on and reset from remote on desktop or i can use a media lab infared remote control to power on or even the iphone WOL - stops the kids pressing the power/reset button while i'm using it








































































a5ian300zx


----------



## Mitche01

OK first WC rig

Spec -

CASE - Modded ANTEC 300
RES - XSPC 5.25 mount with MCP355 attached.
RAD 1 - XSPC RX120
RAD 2 - XSPC RX240
CPU - EK Supreme HF
GPU1 - EK FC-260/275/285 GTX GW
GPU2 - EK FC-275 GTX

Tubing - Thermochill 1/2" ID 3/4" OD(cant remember which)
Barbs - G1/4" with 1/2" ID
Hose clamps
De-ionised water
no dye
PT Nuke

I had to remove the HDD case and then mount my HDD to the side - I covered in Silent NVH tape and it traps nicely against the case side so you can here any vibration. I added an Corsair SSD and mounted at the bottom of the case just behind the 240 RAD.

The hose length from the bottom to the RES and the RES to the CPU block is over sized length so i can remove the res to fill/re-fill etc...

I know, I know the wiring is bad! I will get round to sorting it out! EDIT - to be fair the picture makes it look worse than it is - all the PSU and SATA cables between the 240 RAD and Mobo are on the back plate only - nothing sticks up apart from the PCI-e Power connectors for the GPUs /EDIT

Still - temps are nice (Phenom II at 3.74Ghz 1.425V and 1.15V NB/CPU) temps Fully loaded 45*C


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mitche01;12306890*
> OK first WC rig
> 
> Spec -
> 
> CASE - Modded ANTEC 300
> RES - XSPC 5.25 mount with MCP355 attached.
> RAD 1 - XSPC RX120
> RAD 2 - XSPC RX240
> CPU - EK Supreme HF
> GPU1 - EK FC-260/275/285 GTX GW
> GPU2 - EK FC-275 GTX
> 
> Tubing - Thermochill 1/2" ID 3/4" OD(cant remember which)
> Barbs - G1/4" with 1/2" ID
> Hose clamps
> De-ionised water
> no dye
> PT Nuke
> 
> I had to remove the HDD case and then mount my HDD to the side - I covered in Silent NVH tape and it traps nicely against the case side so you can here any vibration. I added an Corsair SSD and mounted at the bottom of the case just behind the 240 RAD.
> 
> The hose length from the bottom to the RES and the RES to the CPU block is over sized length so i can remove the res to fill/re-fill etc...
> 
> I know, I know the wiring is bad! I will get round to sorting it out! EDIT - to be fair the picture makes it look worse than it is - all the PSU and SATA cables between the 240 RAD and Mobo are on the back plate only - nothing sticks up apart from the PCI-e Power connectors for the GPUs /EDIT
> 
> Still - temps are nice (Phenom II at 3.74Ghz 1.41V and 1.2V NB/CPU) temps Fully loaded 45*C


nice setup. little messy though...

why not go put the top gpu's in tube on the other side? and bottom one with a right angle...

sorry dw.. badly explained









so it goes
res -> cpu -> 120 rad -> top gpu ( from the top not bottom ) -> bottom gpu -> 240 rad









wuld look cleaner me thinks


----------



## Mitche01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;12307030*
> nice setup. little messy though...
> 
> why not go put the top gpu's in tube on the other side? and bottom one with a right angle...
> 
> sorry dw.. badly explained
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it goes
> res -> cpu -> 120 rad -> top gpu ( from the top not bottom ) -> bottom gpu -> 240 rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wuld look cleaner me thinks


Hi Liighthead -

I know it is messy, I just need to clear up the cabling.

I think i know what you mean about the GPU - but i dont have the space to do what you suggest as it woul mean bending the tubing and it would start to kink at those radii. If you look a the 120RAD from the CPU that is about a tight as I can go I think.


----------



## kromar

is it normal for a watercooled NB to reach such temperatures? after a bit of stress testing it goes higher than the CPU and im wondering if the block makes good contact because the tubing i use is very stiff and theres quite some force on that block...


----------



## EditeD

I must confess I love this thread.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kromar;12307071*
> is it normal for a watercooled NB to reach such temperatures? after a bit of stress testing it goes higher than the CPU and im wondering if the block makes good contact because the tubing i use is very stiff and theres quite some force on that block...


i've never had a AMD before and wouldnt even know the values on those chips, but on my old R2E the XMP profile for my 1866 doms would set QPI to 1.55 or something, and using the lcd poster thing on that board my NB was alwaays hotter than my cpu!! doubt that helps, its just my experience, and yeh unfortunately different chip


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kromar;12307071*
> is it normal for a watercooled NB to reach such temperatures? after a bit of stress testing it goes higher than the CPU and im wondering if the block makes good contact because the tubing i use is very stiff and theres quite some force on that block...


Never a bad idea to check the tubing issue you mention. Stress is not a good thing. The only way to really know is to take that block off and see how the thermal paste/pad looks like underneath.

I have my NB stock cooled. At idle/normal use, it is always hotter than the CPU. Under stress though the CPU usually goes higher than the NB temp. Remember, with AMD CPU's handling RAM directly from the CPU, the NB I believe mainly handles the graphics aspect of the inner workings of your computer. So, depending on the stress testing you do, you may or may not see that temp higher than the CPU temp. For example, Prime95 will not stress graphics so I would assume that the NB temps will be lower than the CPU during a CPU/RAM stress test.

If anyone else has a better explanation, would appreciate it. I have wondered about this as well.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12302069*
> your loop doesn't need two pumps. My loop doesn't even need two pumps and it's running much more than urs
> 
> he's clueless or really screwed something up building the loop


^this.

I have a modded 655 running my block disaster and it's just fine.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EditeD;12307237*
> I must confess I love this thread.












hey, anyone else noticed that we now have like buttons on every post? what exactly do they do? make OCN more like facebook?

edit: oh, hey, they add posts to the drop down menu at the top... I am assuming that the most liked posts will be first on the list?


----------



## Mitche01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12309215*
> updated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hey, anyone else noticed that we now have like buttons on every post? what exactly do they do? make OCN more like facebook?
> 
> edit: oh, hey, they add posts to the drop down menu at the top... I am assuming that the most liked posts will be first on the list?


A bit OT but I assumed they are similar to REP but more for comments that are not of a techinal helping nature.

In your profile you will see a list of how many you get and how many you have given.


----------



## Freakn

Hi all,

I need a little bit of help please with choosing some fan's for my 360 rad. My rig idles at 40 degC will easily hit 56 after a few minutes of IBT.

I picked up some cheap cm fans but the performance is worse than I expected even running push/pull. Between using a couple of these fans and some spare old ones I'll have 6 shrouds to use also.

If possible could someone please suggest a couple of fans from www.pccasegear.com

P.S. I do have quite high ambients here in Australia

Thanks


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;12316501*
> Hi all,
> 
> I need a little bit of help please with choosing some fan's for my 360 rad. My rig idles at 40 degC will easily hit 56 after a few minutes of IBT.
> 
> I picked up some cheap cm fans but the performance is worse than I expected even running push/pull. Between using a couple of these fans and some spare old ones I'll have 6 shrouds to use also.
> 
> If possible could someone please suggest a couple of fans from www.pccasegear.com
> 
> P.S. I do have quite high ambients here in Australia
> 
> Thanks


http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=8750


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;12316501*
> Hi all,
> 
> I need a little bit of help please with choosing some fan's for my 360 rad. My rig idles at 40 degC will easily hit 56 after a few minutes of IBT.
> 
> I picked up some cheap cm fans but the performance is worse than I expected even running push/pull. Between using a couple of these fans and some spare old ones I'll have 6 shrouds to use also.
> 
> If possible could someone please suggest a couple of fans from www.pccasegear.com
> 
> P.S. I do have quite high ambients here in Australia
> 
> Thanks


http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=6848
for peformance.. but yeah their loud xD

if not those gentle typhoons suggested above me


----------



## Freakn

That's great, thankyou

With the GT's would you suggest push / pull?

And are the UK's compatible to work with a fan controller so as to reduce noise when the system is just idle?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Wow UK's are $19 on there? Might as well just go for the GT's and yes in Push/Pull if you can fit them.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12316766*
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=8750


I'll second these, I own these and they are very hard to beat for performances vs noise. You should look at this thread, and make sure to watch the vids too as the type of sound your ears like or dislike makes a big difference.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/859483-round-6-fan-testing-working-thread.html


----------



## FannBlade

If you have time to wait you might check this out. GT's


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;12316907*
> That's great, thankyou
> 
> With the GT's would you suggest push / pull?
> 
> And are the UK's compatible to work with a fan controller so as to reduce noise when the system is just idle?


it does help a bit... but still faily loud >.<

for extra $4 get the GT's







( i wuld anyways )
i got 1 of thses UKs for the lulz... not bad though







bench 8400
without it temps like 95+ with.. about 60 ;D load oced


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;12316501*
> Hi all,
> 
> I need a little bit of help please with choosing some fan's for my 360 rad. My rig idles at 40 degC will easily hit 56 after a few minutes of IBT.
> 
> I picked up some cheap cm fans but the performance is worse than I expected even running push/pull. Between using a couple of these fans and some spare old ones I'll have 6 shrouds to use also.
> 
> If possible could someone please suggest a couple of fans from www.pccasegear.com
> 
> P.S. I do have quite high ambients here in Australia
> 
> Thanks


I've got 3 1850rpm GT's on my 360 rad (push) and they work great and are really quiet too.
Highly recommend them.


----------



## Onions

or look at the fans in my sig (link down there) we are ordering them in a couple of weeks htere the best noise to cfm out there


----------



## ScurK

Finally, I jumped into watercooling as well.
At first, it looked way too busy, with the pump mounted on the PSU.

Then I figured out how to mount the pump in my drive bay, along with the reservoir!










I used ~ 1,5 feet less tubing this way, it looks cleaner and is a LOT easier to work with if I wanna change parts and stuff.









*Parts*
XSPC Rasa cpu block
EK-vga supreme gpu block â€" removed the jet plate for improved flow
Swiftech Microres
HW Labs GTX 240
HW Labs GTS 240
Laing DDC 18 watt pump with XSPC acrylic top
Red Primochill 10/16mm tubing
Silver nickel compression fittings and some silver nickel barbs. The barbs are so wide that I donâ€™t have to use zip ties/clamps. YAY!

Also a single bitspower 45 degree fitting on my gts 240. Expensive stuff.

I use some high tech uber 1337 coolant with superduper ultrathermal additives in it.
Itâ€™s called distilled water with algaecide.









Now for some pictures of the final product!


























Me? I'm proud and happeeeh!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ScurK*


Finally, I jumped into watercooling as well.
At first, it looked way too busy, with the psu-mounted pump creating clutter... look:









Then I figured out how to mount the pump in my drive bay, along with the reservoir!

I used ~ 1,5 feet less tubing this way, it looks cleaner and is a LOT easier to work with if I wanna change parts and stuff.









*Parts*
XSPC Rasa cpu block
EK-vga supreme gpu block â€" removed the jet plate for improved flow
Swiftech Microres
HW Labs GTX 240
HW Labs GTS 240
Laing DDC 18 watt pump with XSPC acrylic top
Red Primochill 10/16mm tubing
Silver nickel compression fittings and some silver nickel barbs. The barbs are so wide that I donâ€™t have to use zip ties/clamps. YAY!

Also a single bitspower 45 degree fitting on my gts 240. Expensive stuff.

I use some high tech uber 1337 coolant with superduper ultrathermal additives in it.
Itâ€™s called distilled water with algaecide.









Now for some pictures of the final product!

Me? I'm proud and happeeeh!










sexy setup. I like how the GPU blower is still in place along with a water block. LOL. Kinda cool looking.


----------



## ScurK

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


sexy setup. I like how the GPU blower is still in place along with a water block. LOL. Kinda cool looking.


Thanks man. Yeah I think it was a good idea since it provides some airflow for the baseplate cooling the VRM's. Too bad it'll have to go(I sold it, sending it tomorrow. GTX 560 ti incoming.. stay tuned







)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ScurK*


Thanks man. Yeah I think it was a good idea since it provides some airflow for the baseplate cooling the VRM's. Too bad it'll have to go(I sold it, sending it tomorrow. GTX 560 ti incoming.. stay tuned







)


And thats the primoflex tubing? I thought it was a bit more transparent. I mean, yours is transparent but maybe its just the camera making it look a more intense red. I like it...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;12324328*
> Finally, I jumped into watercooling as well.
> At first, it looked way too busy, with the psu-mounted pump creating clutter... look:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me? I'm proud and happeeeh!


very sexy Skurk:yessir: i'd take to it with some cable ties down the back there.... oh and...**Cough**Sleeving**Cough**


----------



## ShortySmalls

how did you cut (?) your HDD bays down like that, i think i need a add another rad but have 2 HDD's and a SSD so i would need to keep 3 open


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


how did you cut (?) your HDD bays down like that, i think i need a add another rad but have 2 HDD's and a SSD so i would need to keep 3 open


That's a feature of the CM690 II. Some of the bays come out.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12329270*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how did you cut (?) your HDD bays down like that, i think i need a add another rad but have 2 HDD's and a SSD so i would need to keep 3 open


its a coolermaster cm692 case. they have it so you can take apart the lower 3 hdd so that you can put a rad down there. also for the 2.5" hdd you could always stick it some where out of site with double sided tape.


----------



## Onions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ScurK*












ok so having a fan on ur gpu is only gonna make noise why is it still there


----------



## ScurK

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CH4PZ*


i'd take to it with some cable ties down the back there.... oh and...**Cough**Sleeving**Cough**










Yeah, needs moar cable tie... but sleeving? Meeeh









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


ok so having a fan on ur gpu is only gonna make noise why is it still there


Cools the baseplate which cools vrm and ram. Can't hear it over my GT-AP15 fans.


----------



## Onions

ok fair enough


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


its a coolermaster cm692 case. they have it so you can take apart the lower 3 hdd so that you can put a rad down there. also for the 2.5" hdd you could always stick it some where out of site with double sided tape.


so would that 2 bay HDD thing work if i found one in a HAf 932? i have no mod skills what so ever, and would love to get a rad down their


----------



## bundymania

Some new parts arrived at my shop this week:


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Some new parts arrived at my shop this week:











very sexy parts you have there man.


----------



## Liighthead

0.O sexy dude!


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Some new parts arrived at my shop this week:










Is this for the south bridge to fit under vid cards? If so I'm very interested!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*





















Universal GPU block?


----------



## Onions

ok so i have the ek supreme cpu block copper one does it matter for intake and the out flow directiong


----------



## AdvanSuper

Yes intake is on the left and exhaust is on the right.


----------



## Onions

ok thnx


----------



## bundymania

@mbudden: Yep, it fits on many newer cards

http://www.xspc.biz/rasagpu.php

@FannBlade: It´s a GPU-only waterblock from EK, made in Slovenia

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/universal-vga-blocks/ek-vga-supreme-hf-nickel.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

new user title. <_< >_>


----------



## FannBlade

Thanks


----------



## bundymania

Little Update today after a longer Break - Ram Waterblock changed and Cool Cover Mounting Kit painted and installed














































Imagine white Leds and Screws in the EK Ram Waterblock and HK 3.0 !


----------



## ShortySmalls

how do ram waterblocks work? how does it make contact and mount to the ram chips?


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12339359*
> Little Update today after a longer Break - Ram Waterblock changed and Cool Cover Mounting Kit painted and installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Imagine white Leds and Screws in the EK Ram Waterblock and HK 3.0 !


Daymmm! thats shapin up for 1 sexy rig!! nice work:yessir:


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12339440*
> how do ram waterblocks work? how does it make contact and mount to the ram chips?


you remove the top fins and add TIM between the stock coolers and the block, and the heat goes up just like any other block


----------



## Infernosaint

I kinda really want the EK ram block, the acetal version. Think it looks really sleek. Too bad it's nickel plated, copper would suit my other blocks better ^^


----------



## TheSchlaf

Here's an update to my rig with 2 D5 XSPC Reservoirs instead of one split bay.



















New EK block as well.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I commend you for using a proper sli bridge with that spacing instead of using a 3 way sli bridge. Makes me rage everytime I see someone use a tri sli bridge when running 2 way.


----------



## erocker




----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *erocker*












haha, is that a rad box in your pocket or are you just happy to see me, lol


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


I commend you for using a proper sli bridge with that spacing instead of using a 3 way sli bridge. Makes me rage everytime I see someone use a tri sli bridge when running 2 way.


*umadbro?*

Haha, only kidding of course.

To make my post something other than a troll; I need an opinion or two from you guys.
I have the opportunity to grab a (used) 800D and Fesser 480 for $320 shipped. Good deal, bad deal? The 800D is light modded to allow the 480 up top and is very cleanly done.
I think I'm going to grab it, just needed that one person to tell me "go for it" so I don't feel like I'm blowing all my money.


----------



## Mr.Zergling

my 2-3week old sig rig


----------



## TheSchlaf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr.Zergling*


my 2-3week old sig rig


The PCI slots glow orange. Cool!


----------



## Mr.Zergling

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheSchlaf*


The PCI slots glow orange. Cool!


Yeah someone said it reminded them of the PCI slots on the DFI lanparty boards, which also glowed under UV


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


*umadbro?*

Haha, only kidding of course.

To make my post something other than a troll; I need an opinion or two from you guys.
I have the opportunity to grab a (used) 800D and Fesser 480 for $320 shipped. Good deal, bad deal? The 800D is light modded to allow the 480 up top and is very cleanly done.
I think I'm going to grab it, just needed that one person to tell me "go for it" so I don't feel like I'm blowing all my money.










YES I'M MAD! tri sli bridge without tri sli doesn't make you cool

That is a pretty good deal, especially since the modding is done already. Thought you were against watercooling.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr.Zergling*


Yeah someone said it reminded them of the PCI slots on the DFI lanparty boards, which also glowed under UV


DFI Lanparty for the freaking win.


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


YES I'M MAD! tri sli bridge without tri sli doesn't make you cool

That is a pretty good deal, especially since the modding is done already. Thought you were against watercooling.


Not at all, I love it; gives me something to spend my money on. What gave you that impression?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


Not at all, I love it; gives me something to spend my money on. What gave you that impression?


nvm, I just looked at the avatar instead of the name. Thought u were someone else that had bottled up, unreasonable hatred for wc


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


nvm, I just looked at the avatar instead of the name. Thought u were someone else that had bottled up, unreasonable hatred for wc


Well I doubt that person would be here then.


----------



## gdawg33

Is the 800d being sold on OCN? I say go for it what are you going to lose except for some money.


----------



## RushMore1205

Hey guys still building my rig here is some cool pix I think, for more check out my thread in signature


----------



## mcpetrolhead

I have recently re done my water loop, its in my "new" case which is an old server case in the middle of being modded the hell out of.

































Case looks terrible at the moment (my photography skills dont help) because ive been doing little bits and pieces to it, also in the middle of getting a server going for my media. I will most likely repost once ive finished the case mod and got a new psu (cant wait for non modular







).

The radiator will move up so that the fans will mounted where the rad currently is and the radiator above that. Its going to require more work to get it there which i dont seem to have much of at the moment :/


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcpetrolhead*


I have recently re done my water loop, its in my "new" case which is an old server case in the middle of being modded the hell out of.

Case looks terrible at the moment (my photography skills dont help) because ive been doing little bits and pieces to it, also in the middle of getting a server going for my media. I will most likely repost once ive finished the case mod and got a new psu (cant wait for non modular







).

The radiator will move up so that the fans will mounted where the rad currently is and the radiator above that. Its going to require more work to get it there which i dont seem to have much of at the moment :/


it will be even nicer when you get your case mod done,i bet.but very nice watercooling loop,great job


----------



## mcpetrolhead

yeah, i have work where i wont be home for about a month, should be able to get a fair bit done after that. painting will be a big step i think


----------



## Onions

lol kevin i love the new title







but what happend to the updated picture you used??


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12346279*
> lol kevin i love the new title
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but what happend to the updated picture you used??












I got bored of it... it was nifty, but it is easier to just type updated


----------



## Onions

i think ocn should add a smiley code :updated and show that picture







make it way easy XD anyways the server im building (WC) is onyl waiting for a pump, then shes going under


----------



## solar0987

Count me in the h50 is serving its purpouse well LOL....
Ne ways modding the heck outta the case and going with a loop worklog in my sig


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## DullBoi

Update.

From this . .










to this . .










Pew.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AlanScott

my updated rig


----------



## masterchief9615




----------



## FannBlade

Nice looking rig. Green looks really good.
Welcome to OCN. Enjoy your stay.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

btw, i love the green


----------



## Sith78

Here is my baby plz add me to club


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sith78*


Here is my baby plz add me to club 


no other way to have an antec 1200 without the window mod like that, thats why i stoped using mine


----------



## Sith78

window mod wasn't that hard. I like the way it looks this way better than stock


----------



## Snips

Changed my case, got a new rad, new tubing, unisleeved cables and 3 more AP-15s. 
Nicer and neater than my first loop, no?


----------



## Liighthead

O.O nice

hey wuld a 120mm rad be our to passivly cool a low end dual core + northbridge?
or with a slim scyth fan? :] wuld work or?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## TwistedDane

I wish to join this club









D-Tek Fuzion V2 block
Swiftech Micro Reservoir
New-Jet NJ-1200 aquarium pump
Alphacool NexXxos Xtreme III(rev.2) w/ 3x Noctua nf-p12
Eheim tubing + water-hose(temporarily)
Tap water with a little car anti-freeze liquid(for the erosion only)


















I know it needs a little shine up, but performance comes first


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwistedDane*


I wish to join this club









D-Tek Fuzion V2 block
Swiftech Micro Reservoir
New-Jet NJ-1200 aquarium pump
Alphacool NexXxos Xtreme III(rev.2) w/ 3x Noctua nf-p12
Eheim tubing + water-hose(temporarily)
Tap water with a little car anti-freeze liquid(for the erosion only)


















I know it needs a little shine up, but performance comes first










Ummmmmm tap water?
















You should really go get some distilled water.


----------



## TwistedDane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Ummmmmm tap water?
















You should really go get some distilled water.


Have used tap water for past 2years








Tried distilled water and didn't see any changes what so ever after 6months.

HavenÂ´t had any problems so far. My system is running clean and without any kinds of problems


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwistedDane*


Have used tap water for past 2years









HavenÂ´t had any problems so far. My system is running clean and without any kinds of problems










Have you opened your block?

Oh, and if performance was first, why would you use antifreeze for corrosion. If you have all copper in your loop then you don't have to worry about corrosion, and distilled will perform better then tap mixed with antifreeze.


----------



## TwistedDane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12360980*
> Have you opened your block?
> 
> Oh, and if performance was first, why would you use antifreeze for corrosion. If you have all copper in your loop then you don't have to worry about corrosion, and distilled will perform better then tap mixed with antifreeze.


I did when i changed my block from ThermalRight XWB-1 to D-Tek Fuzion V2. There were nothing! Nothing at all other then all of the tiny copper pins









The XWB-1 block had ran with tap + anti-freeze for about 2 years without any kind of water change and/or filling(no need)

The anti-freeze is there because my exchanger(like alot others) is made of copper and brass. Copper channels and brass top & bottom









And besides that its better to be safe then sorry IMHO

A picture of the XWB-1 block inside(not mine):


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwistedDane*


I did when i changed my block from ThermalRight XWB-1 to D-Tek Fuzion V2. There were nothing! Nothing at all other then all of the tiny copper pins









The XWB-1 block had ran with tap + anti-freeze for about 2 years without any kind of water change and/or filling(no need)

The anti-freeze is there because my exchanger(like alot others) is made of copper and brass. Copper channels and brass top & bottom









And besides that its better to be safe then sorry IMHO

A picture of the XWB-1 block inside(not mine):










copper and brass can be in the same loop without corrosion issues. You can run straight distilled water in your loop as long as you don't have aluminum.


----------



## TwistedDane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


copper and brass can be in the same loop without corrosion issues. You can run straight distilled water in your loop as long as you don't have aluminum.


True.

But i like to be safe and i do like the light blue color that my water gets


----------



## The_Punisher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sith78*


Here is my baby plz add me to club 


Looks great from what I can see, do you have any more pics of it? My current 902 project doesnt include putting a full window in, but I would like to do it eventually.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwistedDane*


Have used tap water for past 2years








Tried distilled water and didn't see any changes what so ever after 6months.

HavenÂ´t had any problems so far. My system is running clean and without any kinds of problems










tap water = extremly conductive

distilled water = pretty much non conductive


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


tap water = extremly conductive

distilled water = pretty much non conductive


Don't spill


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Never understood people that cheap out on WC parts or use anything other than distilled water and a kill coil/ ptnuke/ deadwater as a coolant. I'd never risk the integrity of the rig over something so trivial.


----------



## Onions

it really doesnt matter as long as you dont spill it. If your carefull then tap water is fineXD


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


it really doesnt matter as long as you dont spill it. If your carefull then tap water is fineXD


no tap water isn't fine, don't post that in here, then the new water coolers are going to think to just fill up their loop with tap water, and then will come crying about their loop being all junked up later. Not all tap water is filtered the same, some has tons of minerals, some doesn't. distilled water is the same no matter where you get it, no minerals, no debris, no anything.


----------



## thecyb0rg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


it really doesnt matter as long as you dont spill it. If your carefull then tap water is fineXD


No dude, tap water is not fine. That's a stupid risk to take with such finely crafted machines that easily exceed $1k, $2k, $3k or more.


----------



## mbudden

Sigh. Tap water has minerals and sediments in it that distilled water doesn't. These are things on the micron level, things that you need filters to filter out. But whatever, gum up your blocks with these things. It's all good. It's not my hardware.


----------



## Onions

just saying i have had it in mine for 3 months and no gunk i might just have good filtered water?


----------



## thecyb0rg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


just saying i have had it in mine for 3 months and no gunk i might just have good filtered water?


You may, very true. But you won't see the buildup on the internals of the rad. So you'll never know anything is wrong until one day your flow rate drops, you spring a leak, or you start seeing a bunch of crap running through your loop.


----------



## Onions

true dat. i dont use tap any more i jsut did cause i was to broke to get an 11 dollar bottle of distilled.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Yes, spend $9000 and cheap out on a $.69 cent bottle of distilled water. Good idea.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


true dat. i dont use tap any more i jsut did cause i was to broke to get an 11 dollar bottle of distilled.


I don't know where you are, but in normal places a gallon of distilled water doesn't exceed $1


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


true dat. i dont use tap any more i jsut did cause i was to broke to get an 11 dollar bottle of distilled.


I've never seen distilled water that much.... .70 cents here...


----------



## Onions

well its a 4L bottle?? i have a huge loop and lots of extra tube i use about a liter and half i think?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


it really doesnt matter as long as you dont spill it. If your carefull then tap water is fineXD


Think Mr. Coffee. Run it for a year using just tap water. After a year open it up and see all the "calcification" of the minerals inside from the tap water. That's why they suggest you run white vinegar twice a year through your coffee maker, your iron and such... to help prevent this problem.

Now, take that same principle and add it to a much smaller environment as your water block. The only problem here is that it could happen much quicker and its not a simple thing to clean.

I also believe (any scientists here?) that tap water could help in creating copper oxide (the stuff that makes pennies dark) faster than distilled water.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## The_Punisher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I've never seen distilled water that much.... .70 cents here...


I've heard its much more expensive in other countries. Not sure why.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


well its a 4L bottle?? i have a huge loop and lots of extra tube i use about a liter and half i think?


Yeah, my whole loop used less than a gallon of distilled water. You should be able to get 2 fills out of a gallon. I highly doubt you have that big of a loop. I'm assuming you don't live in the States?


----------



## Onions

nah i live in canada i have all half inch tubing... a fill and drain line, a res that holds about 750ml of water pump 360 adn 240 rad 1 470 block and a cpu block


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


nah i live in canada i have all half inch tubing... a fill and drain line, a res that holds about 750ml of water pump 360 adn 240 rad 1 470 block and a cpu block


I find it hard to believe that in Canada, distilled water would be so expensive. You have checked grocery stores right?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


nah i live in canada i have all half inch tubing... a fill and drain line, a res that holds about 750ml of water pump 360 adn 240 rad 1 470 block and a cpu block


That shouldn't require more then 3/4 of a gallon of water. Most loops can get by with just about 1L of water.

My loop could be filled about 3 or 4 times from a gallon. I have a 360mm rad, with the rasa dualbay res ,which holds a ton of water, and my 1/2in tubing.

just looked my res holds over 1000mL of water.


----------



## Snips

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Punisher*


I've heard its much more expensive in other countries. Not sure why.


50 cents SGD a litre here, go shld be arnd $2 USD for a gallon


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Snips*


50 cents SGD a litre here, go shld be arnd $2 USD for a gallon


I pay way too much for my distilled water only because im too lazy to go to the store instead of the corner gas station, i pay about 1.20 USD a gallon. Not really an issue.


----------



## Onions

man i go to like fortinos (jsut took a trip to check) and its 11 taxes in for 4L thats like almost 3 bucks a liter XD not to bad rly


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


man i go to like fortinos (jsut took a trip to check) and its 11 taxes in for 4L thats like almost 3 bucks a liter XD not to bad rly


>< jesus. i don't see why it'd be that high. does it only come in a 4L bottle? or does it come in smaller sizes? if so, you could get away with 2L's, I'm sure.


----------



## Onions

1l or 4l is all they had lol the 2l was 7 bucks







gawwd it sucks


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


1l or 4l is all they had lol the 2l was 7 bucks







gawwd it sucks


Time to smuggle some from the US


----------



## Mongol

Wow. I should grab a still from my old jobs' lab and shoot on over to your neck of the woods and start distilling and selling there at discount...lol


----------



## Onions

lol the bcustoms place is bored i got taxed on a 20 item lol 2 bucks in hst and 19 bucks in brokerage fees on a freaking 20 rad... i was pissed to say the least


----------



## Jeeps

Here is my first watercooling setup


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeeps;12365649*
> Here is my first watercooling setup


i love people who use that little tiny tubing, its so cute


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12366538*
> i love people who use that little tiny tubing, its so cute


I think that the tiny tubing like that is wierd looking in my opinion.


----------



## thrasherht

I'm not so sure about the orange color, the tubing and the sleeving don't match.


----------



## Mongol

Awww...look at the cute tubing! ^__^


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

that tubing is toight like a toiger


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12365199*
> Time to smuggle some from the US


or just buy a distiller. Or make your own. Not hard to build a distiller.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4762593_make-home-water-distillers.html


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## TwistedDane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12362043*
> tap water = extremly conductive
> 
> distilled water = pretty much non conductive


What ???

So you are trying to tell me that distilled water is much less conductive then tap water ?









I hardly believe that m8. I would like to see some documents on that









The only real difference between Distilled water and tap water is that distilled water has been boiled(which remove some calcium) before you buy it









I have ran my wc with tap water + a little anti-freeze for ~ 2 years with the xwb-1 block with out any debris i the loop. I really think that the distilled vs. tap water is a bit overrated IMO.

Sure we use vinegar i our coffee makers and so on. But they are not a closed loop like the ones we use. A closed loop is a lot cleaner because it is not i direct contact with the surroundings(which have a lot of nasty things. Dust etc.)


----------



## mcpetrolhead

indeed pure water is non conductive, it is the impurities that make water conductive.

Though in practise once you put distilled water into your loop, then add biocides it will become conductive due to the impurities.


----------



## T3h_Ch33z_Muncha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwistedDane;12368755*
> What ???
> 
> So you are trying to tell me that distilled water is much less conductive then tap water ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hardly believe that m8. I would like to see some documents on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only real difference between Distilled water and tap water is that distilled water has been boiled(which remove some calcium) before you buy it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have ran my wc with tap water + a little anti-freeze for ~ 2 years with the xwb-1 block with out any debris i the loop. I really think that the distilled vs. tap water is a bit overrated IMO.
> 
> Sure we use vinegar i our coffee makers and so on. But they are not a closed loop like the ones we use. A closed loop is a lot cleaner because it is not i direct contact with the surroundings(which have a lot of nasty things. Dust etc.)


Why not take a basic chemistry class or ask google?









Pure H2O is not conductive, but its highly polar nature makes it bond with any number of ions in the air and most certainly around a watercooling loop, that when dissolved, do conduct electricity.

and distilled water isn't made by just boiling water lmao, that doesn't remove half the impurities in water, it just kills bacteria and stuff. Distilled water is made by a process of... wait for it... DISTILLATION!


----------



## alancsalt

My understanding was it didn't stay non-conductive for long?


----------



## T3h_Ch33z_Muncha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12369104*
> My understanding was it didn't stay non-conductive for long?


that's right, because copper ions from your waterblock, plus all the contamination in the tubes, pump, air etc dissolve in the water to make it conductive very quickly.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwistedDane;12368755*
> What ???
> 
> So you are trying to tell me that distilled water is much less conductive then tap water ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hardly believe that m8. I would like to see some documents on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only real difference between Distilled water and tap water is that distilled water has been boiled(which remove some calcium) before you buy it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have ran my wc with tap water + a little anti-freeze for ~ 2 years with the xwb-1 block with out any debris i the loop. I really think that the distilled vs. tap water is a bit overrated IMO.
> 
> Sure we use vinegar i our coffee makers and so on. But they are not a closed loop like the ones we use. A closed loop is a lot cleaner because it is not i direct contact with the surroundings(which have a lot of nasty things. Dust etc.)


distilled water also has no or little Ions in it, which are what causes conductivity, if u don't want to belive me pore a gallon of distled on your mobo, it will work for several minutes, and tap water it would short instantly.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090225195255AAaVvgb


----------



## sgilmore62

Added a Black Ice GTX240 and a Lamptron fan controller to front drive bays. Had to move my SSD's to hinged side door. Added a 5870 day before yesterday, will post update pics when the block comes in.


----------



## mcpetrolhead

sgil, your image is broken


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


distilled water also has no or little Ions in it, which are what causes conductivity, if u don't want to belive me pore a gallon of distled on your mobo, it will work for several minutes, and tap water it would short instantly.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...5195255AAaVvgb


Yahoo answers is not a credible source...that being said, it is/you are correct; distilled water is hardly conductive at all compared to plain 'ol tap water.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcpetrolhead*


sgil, your image is broken










Not for me..


----------



## mcpetrolhead

It was broken but he edited


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwistedDane;12368755*
> What ???
> 
> So you are trying to tell me that distilled water is much less conductive then tap water ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hardly believe that m8. I would like to see some documents on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only real difference between Distilled water and tap water is that distilled water has been boiled(which remove some calcium) before you buy it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have ran my wc with tap water + a little anti-freeze for ~ 2 years with the xwb-1 block with out any debris i the loop. I really think that the distilled vs. tap water is a bit overrated IMO.
> 
> Sure we use vinegar i our coffee makers and so on. But they are not a closed loop like the ones we use. A closed loop is a lot cleaner because it is not i direct contact with the surroundings(which have a lot of nasty things. Dust etc.)


No distilled water isn't just boiled, it is boiled then they collect the steam and turn it back into water, nothing but pure H2O can be turned into steam like that, so the result is pure water.

Water IS NOT conductive. It is the minerals and salts in the water that make it conductive. But just pure H2O isn't.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Skiivari

But remember, however clean your water is, its gonna get "dirty" in the first 5 minutes of using your loop. Your loop WILL have some sort of "stuff" in it which WILL pollute the de-ionized water, atleast giving it back some ions.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

you shouldnt use de-ionized water in a loop at all, it is highly corrosive. distilled is not the same as de-ionized.

I wouldn't use tap water, but if you have clean water where you live it shouldn't be too bad so long as you still use biocide.


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you shouldnt use de-ionized water in a loop at all, it is highly corrosive. distilled is not the same as de-ionized.

I wouldn't use tap water, but if you have clean water where you live it shouldn't be too bad so long as you still use biocide.


Exactly, I see the two confused far too often. I believe Feser has a product calel Feser Aqua - Ultra pure water. This stuff is de-ionized and simply silly to use, almost no matter what.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you shouldnt use de-ionized water in a loop at all, it is highly corrosive. distilled is not the same as de-ionized.

I wouldn't use tap water, but if you have clean water where you live it shouldn't be too bad so long as you still use biocide.


I've used tap water plenty of times without a biocide and haven't had any problems. We do apparently have some of the best tap water in the world though.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Send me some I want to taste the best tap water in the world.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I've used tap water plenty of times without a biocide and haven't had any problems. We do apparently have some of the best tap water in the world though.


this is the reason why we say use distilled water, it doesn't matter where you get it, it is all the same. While tap water can range from being super pure to being incredibly dirty.

I know if i used my own tap water it wouldn't be too bad, while if i used my grandparents tap, it would be a disaster waiting to happen, they have well water with a ton of rust and calcium.


----------



## mbudden

"best tap water in the world". pfft. still has stuff in it at the micron level.


----------



## Onions

ok quick question here. for my media center build i had to make it ultra quiet as in noiseless. i got a fractal R3 with extra white fans that it comes with. not the best but super quiet. I have 4 of those on intake as well as an R4 cool master fan on intake. I have a 240 rad uptop with no fans on it will that keep a 920 cool? i have tested the fans and there is air getting pushed through the rad from the positive pressure in the case but its not alot....


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


ok quick question here. for my media center build i had to make it ultra quiet as in noiseless. i got a fractal R3 with extra white fans that it comes with. not the best but super quiet. I have 4 of those on intake as well as an R4 cool master fan on intake. I have a 240 rad uptop with no fans on it will that keep a 920 cool? i have tested the fans and there is air getting pushed through the rad from the positive pressure in the case but its not alot....


 Run 20 passes of 25,000 problems LinX with Realtemp opened and see if it passes. If it can pass that with acceptable temps i would say you are good to go.


----------



## RushMore1205

here is my work in proggres, i fitted the rad on top


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12377525*
> here is my work in proggres, i fitted the rad on top


look at that cute little 3/8 tubing!


----------



## RushMore1205

I don't know why u all think it's so small it's really not,
I thought that the 1/2 is too big for my layout


----------



## sdla4ever

Well i did a little updating to my rig and watercooling









1- X58 Block
2- 480 rad
3- 3 Monitors


























Ill work on getting more photos. I'm tired.


----------



## mekaw

just got this done


----------



## FuzzDad

First WC rig.









Close up of the Koolance block I'm using for the GPU's.









I have another 460 block coming this week and I'm getting a sleeving kit...fun hobby but $$$


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FuzzDad;12378701*
> First WC rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have another 460 block coming this week and I'm getting a sleeving kit...fun hobby but $$$


Looks really good, sleeving will set off an already clean looking build.

Yeah, fun but can get expensive especially if you run into too much trial and error.


----------



## FuzzDad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


Yeah, fun but can get expensive especially if you run into too much trial and error.










I doubt very many of us are doing this to save money...but yup...that's why reading in here as been especially helpful and like all "engineering" disciplines, we all build and learn on those who came before us. Some of the build logs here have been incredibly detailed and informational. It makes it easy if all you do is read first.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FuzzDad*









I doubt very many of us are doing this to save money...but yup...that's why reading in here as been especially helpful and like all "engineering" disciplines, we all build and learn on those who came before us. Some of the build logs here have been incredibly detailed and informational. It makes it easy if all you do is read first.


 I too have learned a lot from this forum and many of the build threads. End up seeing things I had previously never thought about and suddenly have a "need" for lol.


----------



## Onions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sdla4ever*


Well i did a little updating to my rig and watercooling









1- X58 Block
2- 480 rad
3- 3 Monitors
*snip

Ill work on getting more photos. I'm tired.


gasp ive seen that chipset block somewhere before







o yea on my pc... im glad your enjoying it







what kinda monitors you got there. ive been looking for a syncmastert220 for like 6 months i cant find one under 200 bucks lol


----------



## Sith78

I've bean using PC Pure and have bean quit happy with it. Yeah it cost $30.00. but my PC cost $2500.00. So why go cheap on the coolant. And I'm sorry but no 2 antifreezes are the same. I live in florida we use different antifreeze and oil then my family up in Massachusetts cause of temp. 
And as far as the tap water vs. Distilled water find i pediatrician and ask them if there is a difference. You give a baby Distilled water because their bodies cant handle the garbage in regular tap water.


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FuzzDad*


First WC rig. 








I have another 460 block coming this week and I'm getting a sleeving kit...fun hobby but $$$


Those are some nice looking pics, very clear and well lit.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FuzzDad*


First WC rig. 
http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3797&pictureid=21980[IMG]

Close up of the Koolance block I'm using for the GPU's.
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3797&pictureid=21979[/MG]

I have another 460 block coming this week and I'm getting a sleeving kit...fun hobby but $$$

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
I don't think you really need the sleeving since it's pretty clean as it sits now, but if you're going all out then go all out [IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/biggrin.gif.


----------



## FuzzDad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I don't think you really need the sleeving since it's pretty clean as it sits now, but if you're going all out then go all out







.


Yea...it's just the next evolutionary step in going broke...but this is my weekend and after hours drug of choice...great way to look up and realize you just spent three hours working on two compression fittings and a flow meter....


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sith78*


You give a baby Distilled water because their bodies cant handle the garbage in regular tap water.


Best way to get their immune system to kick in.
First time I've ever heard of giving distilled water to babies. I must be out of touch.


----------



## Emerican

my white silverstone raven <


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Emerican*


my white silverstone raven <











Love that case. I have always wanted a raven style case. I just like my phantom too much. I wish the would make a raven with the phantom style case body.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Nice build Emerican.

What size tubing is that?


----------



## Emerican

1/2 & 3/4


----------



## FuzzDad

Emerican: Small rad pull air out or push air in? Suspect pull out.


----------



## Emerican

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FuzzDad;12386151*
> Emerican: Small rad pull air out or push air in? Suspect pull out.


yupp.


----------



## Sith78

Love the setup really nice


----------



## Emerican

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sith78;12386931*
> Love the setup really nice


ty


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emerican;12385617*
> 1/2 & 3/4


Is that feser tubing, that looks a lot like my tubing in my rig.
I need better pictures.


----------



## Emerican

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12387217*
> Is that feser tubing, that looks a lot like my tubing in my rig.
> I need better pictures.


No its the Primochill tubing, this stuff is amazing.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emerican;12387338*
> No its the Primochill tubing, this stuff is amazing.


Oh ok, because all the primochill i looked at was clearish and wasn't that thick, the feser tubing is super thick. doesn't have the best kink protection, but it is impossible to block the flow of the tubing if you pinch it.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12380673*
> gasp ive seen that chipset block somewhere before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> o yea on my pc... im glad your enjoying it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what kinda monitors you got there. ive been looking for a syncmastert220 for like 6 months i cant find one under 200 bucks lol


2x SyncMaster 2233 and 1x SyncMaster P2250

I would have got another 2233 but I got the P2250 for free so it was win!

I wish I would have gone with thicker tubing :\, Oh well there is always next update lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12388909*
> updated


un-updated

oohhhhh what now.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12389155*
> un-updated
> 
> oohhhhh what now.


Now hes gonna have your post deleted by a mod..


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKI_VT;12389195*
> Now hes gonna have your post deleted by a mod..


lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12389155*
> un-updated
> 
> oohhhhh what now.


----------



## alancsalt

Does anyone here know of any testing or data available on airflow in cable managed vs cable unmanaged cases?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Does anyone here know of any testing or data available on airflow in cable managed vs cable unmanaged cases?


Thats a hard one. Mainly people cable manage their systems for looks and ease of access when work needs to be done on their rigs. When you have an unmanaged system like this:










It stands to reason that if you clean up a bit inside your case that you will improve air flow *which usually goes from the front of the case to the rear. Notice the lack of "obstructions" once some cable management is done:










As for an actual test, I have not seen any but I am sure that some sort of benefit should be there. Maybe 1-2*C.

Here is a guide that states better performance in addition to better aesthetics... but no actual hardcore date. The guide is a bit dated but the principles are just as valid today and when it was printed. Hmmm... Maybe this could be a project for you! (hint hint).


----------



## alancsalt

I can see the better aesthetics, no trouble. Probably swimming against the tide, but wondered if the airflow benefit wasn't minor, unless cable obstruction was verging on the ridiculous.

With cars, I think drag escalates with airspeed, getting exponential (?) above 100kph where 80% of power goes into overcoming air resistance, but being nowhere near as significant at low speeds.

wouldn't be a very appetising study


----------



## Liighthead

well as long as the cables are out of the way it wont affect airflow.
but if u have all ur other cables just floating around on drives. motherboards ect it doesnt really help..

my s478 rig droped 5 degrees once i moved the cables away O.O they were in a big bunch infront of the cpu cooler haha


----------



## Kahbrohn

I hear ya. I am into cars as well and understand your reasoning. Assuming that there is just a degree or two improvement though (and I am convinced there is, just never measured it), in the world of computers that degree or two is probably more significant than what it may seem like. In a car a degree or two may not be much, but shrinking that world to the size of a CPU and you are talking a whole different ball game.

Take lapping for example. Smoothing out your CPU and/or heat sink can produce anywhere between 1-3*C as far as I have seen. Is it worth it? From a temp perspective, it is. From the warranty point of view and the amount of work that goes into it, people shy away from that idea. Those who do go forward with it feel it's worth it.

Bottom line... it's all really up to the individual. Even if you are watercooled, air flow still plays a part in the cooling of your computer unless you are hardcore and place a water block on everything on your case and have the pumping/cooling power to handle it all.

Just my 2 cents...


----------



## mcpetrolhead

Got my new PSU installed a few hours ago, much neater now.


----------



## Infernosaint

Looks sweet. I always loved 38mm fans









Do you just have it open like that all the time?


----------



## mcpetrolhead

well this is still technically a case mod in progress.

I currently have the side panel on, i didnt have it on before because my ssd was hanging out the side of the case.

It will usually stay closed, i also usually have a faceplate on, but that is currently off for the time being because i forgot to put it on


----------



## Kahbrohn

What's with the li'l "headlight looking thingys"?


----------



## alancsalt

Fan controller?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Fan controller?



Hmmm... and I thought it was some leftover from Wall-E or something...


----------



## fr0st.

;D

Worklog's in my sig if anyone wants a gander. "Project Icarus."


----------



## bundymania




----------



## mbudden

Why so long?


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Why so long?


They look like quick disconnect.


----------



## bundymania

ThatÂ´s correct !


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


ThatÂ´s correct !










yay! I passed the test!!!!


----------



## mbudden

Oh. Just look long as heck lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Updated rig with pedestal attachment


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Kahbrohn

This is almost as big as my refrigerator!!! Just prettier with all the pretty blue lights!

Nice man... Enjoy!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Updated rig with pedestal attachment


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


This is almost as big as my refrigerator!!! Just prettier with all the pretty blue lights!

Nice man... Enjoy!


Thanks! It's the perfect height to use as an armrest while gaming. There is only 1/2cm clearance between it and my desk lol. Going to have to find somewhere else to place it so I can add that 2nd pedestal with phase change. I thought the pedestal install was going to be quick, but took around 8 hours to get everything perfect since I had to reblock and retube the whole system. Used up around 18ft of tubing after all of my mistakes.


----------



## Onions

wth lol your putting phase on there wand whats that gonna cool


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12396151*
> wth lol your putting phase on there wand whats that gonna cool


Phase will be just for the CPU.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12395848*
> Used up around 18ft of tubing after all of my mistakes.


Dammmnnn.... How many pumps you running???


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12396975*
> Dammmnnn.... How many pumps you running???


Just 2. 1 for the cpu, mosfets, ram, nb/sb and one for the gpus


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12392454*
> I can see the better aesthetics, no trouble. Probably swimming against the tide, but wondered if the airflow benefit wasn't minor, unless cable obstruction was verging on the ridiculous.
> 
> With cars, I think drag escalates with airspeed, getting exponential (?) above 100kph where 80% of power goes into overcoming air resistance, but being nowhere near as significant at low speeds.
> 
> wouldn't be a very appetising study:headscrat


Drag will go exponential like you mention, but for air it takes high speeds. The biggest problem that started the whole cable-management thing was ribbon cables and their tendency to block off fans/intakes/airflow/etc... now it's more aesthetic, particularly with the increased fan power we all run haha.

@Stallion, you should just cut a square hole in the desk and pop the case up through it. 'Oh, what a cute little PC you've got on your desk' 'Actually, it's sitting on the floor right now'


----------



## bundymania

.999 silver FTW !


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12398370*
> .999 silver FTW !


do they also make compression fittings like that?


----------



## seven7thirty30

What's the point of having .999 silver fittings? Spend the money on hardware. I mean damn, I bought the gold-plated EK Supreme...but only because it was on sale and cheaper than the nickel plated version.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seven7thirty30;12398456*
> What's the point of having .999 silver fittings? Spend the money on hardware.


see his sig right? does he really need more? haha


----------



## Mongol

Omg...compression fittings in .999 would be so...double duty as a blinged out biocide.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12398435*
> do they also make compression fittings like that?


Yeah, 8 $









http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bitrsi1cofif1.html










@Liighthead: Hehehehehe, yeaah...what to buy when having everything in Hardware and 10 PC´s


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12398525*
> Omg...compression fittings in .999 would be so...double duty as a blinged out biocide.


Exactly what I was thinking. Pure silver compression fittings would be ballin! Even at $10 each for a standard compression fitting would be fair.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12398691*
> Yeah, 8 $
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bitrsi1cofif1.html


Thanks man. Looks like I'll be replacing all of my compression fittings. Too bad they don't have any 90deg versions.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12398715*
> Exactly what I was thinking. Pure silver compression fittings would be ballin! Even at $10 each for a standard compression fitting would be fair.
> 
> Thanks man. Looks like I'll be replacing all of my compression fittings. Too bad they don't have any 90deg versions.


If they're black, I'm interested in buying them from you, providing you want to sell them of course.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman;12399161*
> If they're black, I'm interested in buying them from you, providing you want to sell them of course.


sorry, they're the chrome koolance ones


----------



## Yukss

update


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Yeah, 8 $









http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bitrsi1cofif1.html










@Liighthead: Hehehehehe, yeaah...what to buy when having everything in Hardware and 10 PCÂ´s










haha yeah.

would u be our to swap say 2 fittings for theses. instead of getting a silver coil  ?


----------



## bl1nk

Need an opinion or two. In a week or two, I have a 800D with a fesser 480 coming, so I have to redo my loop, along with buying more tubing. I'm thinking about switching out my 3/8id, 1/2od fittings and tubing out for 1/2id, 2/4od. Do you think it would look noticeably better?


----------



## AdvanSuper

1/2" id looks fancy.


----------



## Mongol

Its a little harder to work with but 1/2" id 3/4"od looks great...i tried to keep it at a minimal but you can see it in my build log.

Which will be getting redone with a frozenq really soon.

$7.99 each...that's it? My black sparkles cost the same.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


Need an opinion or two. In a week or two, I have a 800D with a fesser 480 coming, so I have to redo my loop, along with buying more tubing. I'm thinking about switching out my 3/8id, 1/2od fittings and tubing out for 1/2id, 2/4od. Do you think it would look noticeably better?


it's all opinion. I like 3/8id 1/2 od over the larger tubing, It's especially nice if you need it for extremely tight bend radii. Whichever you like, no difference really


----------



## FannBlade

I think the 1/2" would look more to scale in a large case like the 800D.


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;12400508*
> I think the 1/2" would look more to scale in a large case like the 880D.


Yea this was my thinking, the smaller tubing doesn't look bad in my 922 but the 800D is quite a bit bigger.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


it's all opinion. I like 3/8id 1/2 od over the larger tubing, It's especially nice if you need it for extremely tight bend radii. Whichever you like, no difference really


Thank you finaly someone else agrees on tube size with me it's so much nicer to you, and it does not look that small


----------



## x Yoko

I use Tygon R-3603 (3/8x1/2) in my TJ07, and it looks fine to me!


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seven7thirty30*


What's the point of having .999 silver fittings? Spend the money on hardware. I mean damn, I bought the gold-plated EK Supreme...but only because it was on sale and cheaper than the nickel plated version.


.999 silver kills baciera in the water, so he don't need to add any Pt nuke or anything to his loop with those barbs.


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


.999 silver kills baciera in the water, so he don't need to add any Pt nuke or anything to his loop with those barbs.


But lets be honest, he'd be doing it cause they're shiny.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


But lets be honest, he'd be doing it cause they're shiny.


i like shinny! but shiny is expensive


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


Thank you finaly someone else agrees on tube size with me it's so much nicer to you, and it does not look that small


I originally had to use that tubing size in order to use compression fittings on my koolance mvr-40 mosfet blocks, but eventually learned to like it. I'm not a big fan of huge tubing. I think it clutters up the rig. The 3/8 1/2 tubing I use looks good even in my huge rig (opinion tho) which is probably one of the largest on OCN. I'm used to that size tubing and will probably continue to use it in all of my builds since the tubing routing is usually complex.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

3/8 ID 5/8 OD for me good flow, no kinks


----------



## wermad

1/2x3/4 for me cus its beefy









just fell in love w/ the Magnum V8









edit: its Magnum M8


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


3/8 ID 5/8 OD for me good flow, no kinks










7/16x5/8 for me, pretty much the same stuff though slightly larger OD lets me run it on 1/2" barbs...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


1/2x3/4 for me cus its beefy









just fell in love w/ the Magnum V8










Magnum V8? Is that the Magnum M8 + LD V8?







Haha just messing with you, the M8 is a great looking case though, can't wait to see what you do with it. You'll have a pretty unique perspective between the MM/800D/M8 experience, you'll have to let us know what you think! Can't wait to see a build log.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


7/16x5/8 for me, pretty much the same stuff though slightly larger OD lets me run it on 1/2" barbs...

Magnum V8? Is that the Magnum M8 + LD V8?







Haha just messing with you, the M8 is a great looking case though, can't wait to see what you do with it. You'll have a pretty unique perspective between the MM/800D/M8 experience, you'll have to let us know what you think! Can't wait to see a build log.


+1 for catching that, lol, thanks, its the M8 I was referring to, the car ain't bad at all







. Only thing is that the front spacing is not design for a rad. CL said they'll be working on a plate to convert it. And they also have plans for more designs/accessories, so I want to wait and see what other goodies are in store for this awesome case


----------



## RushMore1205

all my fittings are silver plated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Mongol

Isn't that M8 dead sexy wermad?

/case envy


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12406435*
> Isn't that M8 dead sexy wermad?
> 
> /case envy


the cube cases are calling you


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

Just got my loop installed.


----------



## Triangle

360 rad for just CPU..??


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12403054*
> +1 for catching that, lol, thanks, its the M8 I was referring to, the car ain't bad at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Only thing is that the front spacing is not design for a rad. CL said they'll be working on a plate to convert it. And they also have plans for more designs/accessories, so I want to wait and see what other goodies are in store for this awesome case


Haha no problem







I'm surprised they didn't design that panel for a rad... Oh well, they're new enough and active enough that they sound like they're able to do pretty much anything you want with the cases which is great for all of us. I'm betting we'll see some 'Inspired by wermad' parts on the site in the future...


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12406768*
> 360 rad for just CPU..??


well next month im looking at SLI 570's....so yeah for now. Looking at the bigger picture not the current.


----------



## Triangle

Oh... Ok.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeckerDontPlay;12406809*
> well next month im looking at SLI 570's....so yeah for now. Looking at the bigger picture not the current.


Update that sig or I might start believing that the H50 comes with a res/pump combo + red tubing!!!

Nice looking setup there...


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

Man I'm slackin. Thanks.


----------



## Dissentience

Just got my water setup going on Monday.
I know the rad situation looks bad but you can't see it when I push the computer back under the desk.

Enjoying the temps! 25C idle and 40C max under Intel Burn Test


----------



## Triangle

Cable management time..??


----------



## Onions

lol you mounted your rad on teh floor *EPIC* lol but yea i think you should look into some sleeving you will enjoy the look and increased air flow in your case


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12407034*
> Cable management time..??


No real cable management to be had in that case. I have it as well, I'm able to do SOME cable management. But not a lot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12407215*
> lol you mounted your rad on teh floor *EPIC* lol but yea i think you should look into some sleeving you will enjoy the look and increased air flow in your case


I told him you can piggy back it on the back of the case, but it does require some modding.


----------



## Onions

what about the floor could it fit in there? you would have to dremel it out but still


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12407284*
> what about the floor could it fit in there? you would have to dremel it out but still


I believe you could. But yeah. Would take some modding. Maybe the removal of the HDD bays.


----------



## trekman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12407215*
> lol you mounted your rad on teh floor *EPIC* lol but yea i think you should look into some sleeving you will enjoy the look and increased air flow in your case


LOL Epic


----------



## Onions

i bet the carpet works as a great air filter XD


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12407665*
> i bet the carpet works as a great air filter XD











Pushed into the desk it is on a wood surface though. Also I used mounting brackets to elevate it off the ground so there's good airflow.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12407009*
> Just got my water setup going on Monday.
> I know the rad situation looks bad but you can't see it when I push the computer back under the desk.
> 
> Enjoying the temps! 25C idle and 40C max under Intel Burn Test


You should consider getting a modular PSU. That way you only have to plug in the cables you need. You can even make your own custom-length cables if you like.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12402930*
> 7/16x5/8 for me, pretty much the same stuff though slightly larger OD lets me run it on 1/2" barbs...
> 
> Magnum V8? Is that the Magnum M8 + LD V8?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha just messing with you, the M8 is a great looking case though, can't wait to see what you do with it. You'll have a pretty unique perspective between the MM/800D/M8 experience, you'll have to let us know what you think! Can't wait to see a build log.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12406435*
> Isn't that M8 dead sexy wermad?
> 
> /case envy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12406605*
> the cube cases are calling you


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12406798*
> Haha no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm surprised they didn't design that panel for a rad... Oh well, they're new enough and active enough that they sound like they're able to do pretty much anything you want with the cases which is great for all of us. I'm betting we'll see some 'Inspired by wermad' parts on the site in the future...


Yes, I so wants but I'm waiting for the new top that will add about 25mm on top, great for a push pull setup w/ a couple of RX360s on top. I was a bit disappointed with the front not being spaced for a rad but I understand CL reasoning it was designed for hdd cage setup. Interesting, how hdd are still such a craze, I only need one and maybe an ssd, and I understand ppl need mass storage for what ever, but hdd are intrusive sometimes, good example is the hdd setup on the 800d. I want to sell my 800d first and then I wants sze M8








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12404553*
> all my fittings are silver plated


Looking great Rush


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;12407863*
> You should consider getting a modular PSU. That way you only have to plug in the cables you need. You can even make your own custom-length cables if you like.


I'm not too worried about it, my case doesn't have a side panel window so you can't see what is inside, and airflow isn't a huge deal now that I've gone H2O. If my PSU dies then I will go modular, but I see no need to waste money on one right now.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12408039*
> Yes, I so wants but I'm waiting for the new top that will add about 25mm on top, great for a push pull setup w/ a couple of RX360s on top. I was a bit disappointed with the front not being spaced for a rad but I understand CL reasoning it was designed for hdd cage setup. Interesting, how hdd are still such a craze, I only need one and maybe an ssd, and I understand ppl need mass storage for what ever, but hdd are intrusive sometimes, good example is the hdd setup on the 800d. I want to sell my 800d first and then I wants sze M8


Imo Mountain Mods has the best hdd mounting design. It's super simple and you can mount them practically anywhere and in any direction. CL should have made the front rad friendly and used a similar system


----------



## RushMore1205

hey guys i greatly value your input, and i need your help wit this thread, please provide some input for me so i can get the ball rolling:

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/942618-powder-coating-help-me-out.html


----------



## cranium r

i might as well show mine here. finally got it to where im happy with it


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cranium r;12409523*
> i might as well show mine here. finally got it to where im happy with it


My question is why would you get red tubing and then run red dye inside of it? Just so you can clog up your block, and stain your acrylic.


----------



## cranium r

no red die straight distilled water. the cpu block is a red acrylic


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cranium r;12409598*
> no red die straight distilled water. the cpu block is a red acrylic


OH, loloolololol. You got me with your trickery. I have never seen red acrylic for those blocks. Where did you get it?


----------



## RushMore1205

is the new revision of the EK HF really that much better, i feel like i got screwed since i bought mine like a week before they made that one


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12409658*
> is the new revision of the EK HF really that much better, i feel like i got screwed since i bought mine like a week before they made that one


The full nickel EK HF block is the best block you can buy.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/749693-review-22-cpu-waterblocks-tested-roundup.html


----------



## cranium r

i bought mine at performance pcs.com. got mine before the hf series came out. this is supposed to be enhanced being it is a classified addition block

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_498_490&zenid=8ae06449683d3a3fd6e1899f23277e80


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cranium r;12409764*
> i bought mine at performance pcs.com. got mine before the hf series came out. this is supposed to be enhanced being it is a classified addition block
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_498_490&zenid=8ae06449683d3a3fd6e1899f23277e80


this would be the best block on the market right here.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_498_490&products_id=27630&zenid=8ae06449683d3a3fd6e1899f23277e80

the rasa block following in a close second.


----------



## cranium r

i would like to get that block. got to wait though bummer. they dont offer the block i have atm. its gone. im sure the hf's are a lot better


----------



## wermad

wow, 0.8 difference!!! I can live with it. I have the HF rev.1 "round top"


----------



## bundymania




----------



## valvehead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


I'm not too worried about it, my case doesn't have a side panel window so you can't see what is inside, and airflow isn't a huge deal now that I've gone H2O. If my PSU dies then I will go modular, but I see no need to waste money on one right now.


For me it's more about maintenance and reconfiguration than airflow or looks. Excess wires hanging around everywhere get in the way whenever I decide to move components around.

For the longest time my old PC had an Antec TrueBlue 480. It was a decent PSU while it lasted, but it was not modular, and most of the wires were way too long for my mid-tower case (Lian Li PC-65B). I ended up tying up all of the extra slack up in the top of the case. This almost completely blocked the top case fan. It also made it difficult anytime I wanted to shift drives around. I would have to lay the case on its side so that I could reach up there to undo some of the wire ties.

Long story short, the Antec started dying slowly over the past year (cold boot problems). I replaced it with a Cooler Master Silent Pro 700. It's not fully modular, but it helps keep my wire clutter down. It also has more SATA power connectors than the Antec; molex-SATA adapters no longer needed.

That old P4 still hums and whirs along as my home server. I need to upgrade it to a full tower case, though. A mid-tower gets really cramped with a lot of HDDs.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


wow, 0.8 difference!!! I can live with it. I have the HF rev.1 "round top"










lies... lies... THIS IS OCN!!!! if it's not the best then we don't bother


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*





















dam nice


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

EK ram blocks, oh my!







They look great bundy, thanks for the pics!!


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


lies... lies... THIS IS OCN!!!! if it's not the best then we don't bother












Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*












Me getting one, me needs some doms first, me love moar pics, me thanks Bundy for more pics of ram block from ek


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*












Me getting one, me needs some doms first, me love moar pics, me thanks Bundy for more pics of ram block from ek :thum:


Wermad caveman nao?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Wermad caveman nao?


I can call for insurance too


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*





















Now _that_ looks dangerous nick, what do you have cooked up?


----------



## antuk15

Excuse the dust


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12415987*
> Now _that_ looks dangerous nick, what do you have cooked up?


basically a full rebuild... stay tuned


----------



## Methos07

Well, it's been a long journey but I believe I finally have a setup that I'm satisfied with.










































































Specs are in the sig


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antuk15*


Excuse the dust











































You really should upgrade your block, you will get much better temps if you upgrade to the rasa block.


----------



## hti.inc




----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Methos07*











Specs are in the sig


Considered the EK sli/crossfire bridge?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*





















your pics are broken, I think your server is down. Let me know when it is back up (make a new post) and I will add you to the list.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *antuk15*


Excuse the dust











































your pics are also broken; "bandwidth exceeded." try uploading to another site and post again and I will be sure to add you as well.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Where do you goes get the spiral tubes with the light in the middle?


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Where do you goes get the spiral tubes with the light in the middle?


Like these?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Where do you goes get the spiral tubes with the light in the middle?


Artisan: http://www.overclock.net/artisan-sal...e-t-virus.html

perfomance-pcs.com and frozencpu.com sell em too.


----------



## hti.inc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Where do you goes get the spiral tubes with the light in the middle?


They are FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Reservoirs.
You can get them from several places online, just google it


----------



## Qu1ckset

lol tru, il be in this club soon i just need to pick up to gtx 580s, 2 ek blocks and evga back plates and then il put it together


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hti.inc*


http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb128/xtremeav/DSC00021-1.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb128/xtremeav/DSC00019-3.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb128/xtremeav/DSC00022-1.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb128/xtremeav/DSC00024-3.jpgIMG]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
well done

frozenq ftw [IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/smile.gif


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


lol tru, il be in this club soon i just need to pick up to gtx 580s, 2 ek blocks and evga back plates and then il put it together










I'm not sure, but doesn't the EK and EVGA backplate have different mounting holes? I think someone said that you couldn't use the EVGA backplate for the EK block.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infernosaint*


I'm not sure, but doesn't the EK and EVGA backplate have different mounting holes? I think someone said that you couldn't use the EVGA backplate for the EK block.


Really, well i tried looking for black ek back plates and had no luck located anyone with them


----------



## Zmanster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Methos07*


Well, it's been a long journey but I believe I finally have a setup that I'm satisfied with.

Specs are in the sig


Nice build. I was wondering if your Corsair PSU had enough PCIe 6 pin power connections for three 470s? If not, did you use the molex adaptors or something else?


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Really, well i tried looking for black ek back plates and had no luck located anyone with them


Where are you located? Both frozenCPU and PerformancePCs have them.


----------



## Gabe3384

Can u add me plz!!










The new and improved parts!!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infernosaint*


Where are you located? Both frozenCPU and PerformancePCs have them.


can you give me the link for the item on performance-pc, thats where im buying the ek blocks


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


can you give me the link for the item on performance-pc, thats where im buying the ek blocks


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29893

There we go


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infernosaint*


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29893

There we go










Perfect lol ek block with ek back plate, il order these bad boys next week


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Anyone having problems seeing these?
Hope they work this time around, go comcast


----------



## ProRules

XSPC Rasa 750 RS360








6 PUSH & PULL fans.


----------



## Methos07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Considered the EK sli/crossfire bridge?


I have, but it doesn't let me fit my soundcard in. It's a tight fit already, haha


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ProRules*


XSPC Rasa 750 RS360








6 PUSH & PULL fans.


You should post these in the kit thread


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Considered the EK sli/crossfire bridge?


Can you show me where to get this, i want to see what it looks like


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Can you show me where to get this, i want to see what it looks like












You need one triple bridge (either parallel or seriel, I'd go for parallel)

and you need three geforce links, one for each block

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ort=20a&page=2


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*











You need one triple bridge (either parallel or seriel, I'd go for parallel)

and you need three geforce links, one for each block

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ort=20a&page=2


Im Only Getting 2 580s
it doesn't say it supports the 5** series, so let me get this straight, instead of going Hose>Gpu>Hose>Gpu>Hose>(Cpu,Rad,Etc..) 
it goes Hose>Ek Bridge>Hose>(Cpu,Rad,Etc)? and if so does it give even water flow to both gpu's??

i like the looks of it.


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Perfect lol ek block with ek back plate, il order these bad boys next week










Sounds awesome


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Im Only Getting 2 580s
it doesn't say it supports the 5** series, so let me get this straight, instead of going Hose>Gpu>Hose>Gpu>Hose>(Cpu,Rad,Etc..) 
it goes Hose>Ek Bridge>Hose>(Cpu,Rad,Etc)? and if so does it give even water flow to both gpu's??

i like the looks of it.


the geforce links are compatible w/ 5xx ek blocks. here is ek's illustration. you can either go w/ a dual or a dual "triple spaced", I would go w/ a triple and buy a blank if you decide to add a 3rd gpu (which is what I did).


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


the geforce links are compatible w/ 5xx ek blocks. here is ek's illustration. you can either go w/ a dual or a dual "triple spaced", I would go w/ a triple and buy a blank if you decide to add a 3rd gpu (which is what I did).











ok im liking the serial version... but i have a couple questions, ok how does it connect to the ek gpu block? and if i buy a triple for 2 gpu's will it come with a nuff plugs to work?


----------



## wermad

the "links" connect to the blocks and those become the mounting points for the bridge itself. for the triple you have to buy a "blank" (seriel/series or parallel, they are two different designs for each application) link to cover up the unused port.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


the "links" connect to the blocks and those become the mounting points for the bridge itself. for the triple you have to buy a "blank" (seriel/series or parallel, they are two different designs for each application) link to cover up the unused port.


i Understand they go over the gpu block holes, im just wondering how it connects/seals it self over the block holes, and where would i find this "blank serial link" (cuz id go with the serial version, cuz parallel does make sense lol)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ok so this is what i would need to run a 2sli w/c set up minus the compression fittings and tubes

2x Gpu Block
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29843

1x 3way sli w/c bridge "Serial"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27825

1x Blank cap "Serial"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28003

i would need nothing else?


----------



## wermad

series/serial: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...cts_id=28003\\

parallel: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28004

as you may have guessed it, the parallel just blocks the flow and the serial blank diverts the flow to the next link.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


series/serial: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...cts_id=28003\\

parallel: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28004

as you may have guessed it, the parallel just blocks the flow and the serial blank diverts the flow to the next link.


So my post before yours, is that all i need?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Ok so this is what i would need to run a 2sli w/c set up minus the compression fittings and tubes

2x Gpu Block
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29843

1x 3way sli w/c bridge "Serial"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27825

1x Blank cap "Serial"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28003

i would need nothing else?


you're good, the blanks come w/ two ***pairs*** of o-rings (they are different sizes, so be careful).

I highly recommend read the instructions a couple of times at least before installing! Take your time, do NOT rush or you'll have a major leak. Check the size of the screws you'll be using, one or two are different lengths. I made a huge mistake, rushed through it, used the wrong screws in the wrong places and had a couple of disastrous leaks









Don't let ^^^ discourage you, once I did correctly it was leak free and ever since, I have dismantled it a few times and being doing it like I suggested, nothing has ever leaked or gone south with this. Its a really nice setup. good luck


----------



## Mongol

Wouldn't the parallel bridge be the better choice (as far as faster flow)

(unless you're running a 355/35x with higher head pressure)


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


you're good, the blanks come w/ two ***pairs*** of o-rings (they are different sizes, so be careful).

I highly recommend read the instructions a couple of times at least! Take your time, do NOT rush or you'll have a major leak. Check the size of the screws you'll be using, one or two are different lengths. I made a huge mistake, rushed through it, used the wrong screws in the wrong places and had a couple of disastrous leaks









Don't let ^^^ discourage you, once I did correctly it was leak free and ever since, I have dismantled it a few times and being doing it like I suggested, nothing has ever leaked or gone south with this. Its a really nice setup. good luck










^^^this!!!!!! lol

I had a minor (is there such a thing?) leak when I set up my bridge (it was because I was excited and tired) and did not use the proper o-ring on one link. it scared the roshambo out of me, and even though I was a little disappointed, I sallied forth! and fixed it...been running strong ever since.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


you're good, the blanks come w/ two ***pairs*** of o-rings (they are different sizes, so be careful).

I highly recommend read the instructions a couple of times at least before installing! Take your time, do NOT rush or you'll have a major leak. Check the size of the screws you'll be using, one or two are different lengths. I made a huge mistake, rushed through it, used the wrong screws in the wrong places and had a couple of disastrous leaks









Don't let ^^^ discourage you, once I did correctly it was leak free and ever since, I have dismantled it a few times and being doing it like I suggested, nothing has ever leaked or gone south with this. Its a really nice setup. good luck










Ya im pretty good at instructions, how come in ur other post you said i need links, i guessing these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27830

do i need them?, i just want to make sure i have everything to build and not need anything extra.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


^^^this!!!!!! lol

I had a minor (is there such a thing?) leak when I set up my bridge (it was because I was excited and tired) and did not use the proper o-ring on one link. it scared the roshambo out of me, and even though I was a little disappointed, I sallied forth! and fixed it...been running strong ever since.


lol i just cant picture how parallel works, is that the better one to go with?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


Wouldn't the parallel bridge be the better choice (as far as faster flow)

(unless you're running a 355/35x with higher head pressure)


This, though I suspecta any difference is marginal, especially since its dealing w/ a 5xx cards. had it been a couple of gtx 480s I would have strongly encouraged parallel







.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


This, though I suspecta any difference is marginal, especially since its dealing w/ a 5xx cards. had it been a couple of gtx 480s I would have strongly encouraged parallel







.


lmao...this is very true.









Also, Qu1ckset...what pump are you using?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


lmao...this is very true.









Also, Qu1ckset...what pump are you using?


Swiftech mcp655-b


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


lol i just cant picture how parallel works, is that the better one to go with?


think of parallel as the flow is "split" in passed through all blocks at the same time. as opposed to series/serial where the flow enters one block, exits, and enters another, and so on. A lot of people argue that parallel is better as the water enters all blocks at the same time, while series/serial it enters one card and picks up more heat that is passed along to the other card.

Though, many also argue that water temps will equalize and it does not make a difference in terms of temps.

While others argue that restriction varies among both designs.

TBH, most of these arguments are about very small differences though many tend to favor parallel with a slight advantage from these arguments.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Ok so this is what i would need to run a 2sli w/c set up minus the compression fittings and tubes

2x Gpu Block
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29843

1x 3way sli w/c bridge "Serial"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27825

1x Blank cap "Serial"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28003

i would need nothing else?


So the Above list is complete, i dont need these?:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27830


----------



## Mongol

I'd say go with the parallel, you'll have higher flow rates, but since GF110's aren't exactly the furnaces their siblings are, as wermad said, serials should be ok.

Also, you need the links to connect the blocks to the bridge.

And, i'll stop butting in...lol.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


I'd say go with the parallel, you'll have higher flow rates, but since GF110's aren't exactly the furnaces their siblings are, as wermad said, serials should be ok.

Also, you need the links to connect the blocks to the bridge.

And, i'll stop butting in...lol.


So i need 2 links, or i need 3 in order to use the blank link?


----------



## wermad

get three, (3rd link for the 3rd card in the future) *plus* a blank to cover up the unused opening on the bridge until you get triple sli.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So you two are saying i should go parallel instead or serial?


----------



## Mongol

One thing did catch my eye Qu1ck...do you have 4 2GB memory modules or 2 4GB modules? I think you're running in dual channel...you should be using 6GB, 9GB or 12GB for triple channel.

(will help with performance iirc)


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


One thing did catch my eye Qu1ck...do you have 4 2GB memory modules or 2 4GB modules? I think you're running in dual channel...you should be using 6GB, 9GB or 12GB for triple channel.

(will help with performance iirc)


4 x 2gb sticks
i have seen benchmarks of duel channel vs tri channel and there is no difference, in some cases the duel channel was actually faster, but as intel improves there chipset in future cpu's tri channel should be better


----------



## wermad

i7 can run on dual channel just fine.

Yes, I would go w/ parallel


----------



## Mongol

okey dokey.

you should be fine with serial or parallel as the 580's aren't the frying pans the 480's are...as wermad suggested, go parallel.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


i7 can run on dual channel just fine.

Yes, I would go w/ parallel










I know...I just thought triple would improve performance.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


I know...I just thought triple would improve performance.










prob on benchies, not much for gaming as its usually fine w/ 4gb. I went back to 6gb of hp ram.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So My build is this then:

2x Gpu Blocks
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29843

1x 3way sli Bridge "Parallel" 
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27827

3x sli Links (1 extra for when i get 3rd card)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27830

1x Blank sli Link "Parallel"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28004

Lol this is expensive when i add in the 2 backplates lol, but its going to look badass


----------



## Mongol

The backplates make the setup...it looks fabulous with them.

yep..s'pose you're right wer...I only kept the 12gb to help with big 'ol RAW files and loading tunes when I start throwing acid pro and fruity loops around again.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ok so this o ring, mistake was due to you guys not reading the instruction to well, or its easy to mix up the o rings, or its not super clear in the instruction ?


----------



## Mongol

It's very clear, I rushed...i was all awwww, and YAYYYY and fffffffff


----------



## Qu1ckset

Lol sorry one more quick questions so with the blank link in i stick put the tube in at the very bottom of the bridge or right side of the bottom, then the tube out has to come out at the top of the bridge?


----------



## Mongol

I think me and wermad have it set up the same way: in on the right, out the top.










Blank link in the middle, and you're good to go.


----------



## wermad

looking good Qu1ckset.

the o-rings are a bit confusing; a pair fits on the part that attaches to the gpu block and another pair to the bridge itself (on the link).

small tip: dampen the o-rings in distilled and the will stick to the link as your assembling the whole thing. They tend to fall out easily when dry









edit: 2nd tip, if the o-ring does not sit in the channel carved into the link, its not the right one


----------



## Mongol

lol...exactly what ^he said. I'm not a very good tipper.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12426140*
> looking good Qu1ckset.
> 
> the o-rings are a bit confusing; a pair fits on the part that attaches to the gpu block and another pair to the bridge itself (on the link).
> 
> small tip: dampen the o-rings in distilled and the will stick to the link as your assembling the whole thing. They tend to fall out easily when dry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: 2nd tip, if the o-ring does not sit in the channel carved into the link, its not the right one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12426227*
> lol...exactly what ^he said. I'm not a very good tipper.


Well Thanks for the tips, im going to order all that stuff tomorrow, and pick up the first gtx 580 tomorrow after work, i cant stand this g210 lmao, then when my parts arrive il pick up the second video card. I wonder if 580s in 2way sli can play games on max on my 30" dell at 2560x1600


----------



## Mongol

should have no problem at that res with 2 way...only games that ever put up a real fight are metro 2033 and crysis.


----------



## RushMore1205

here is how the tripple link lookswith the mid blocked off


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12426476*
> should have no problem at that res with 2 way...only games that ever put up a real fight are metro 2033 and crysis.


Well i still need to finish both those games lol, and i only play my games on max which is why i have played nothing for the past week..


----------



## cchoy87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12426498*
> 
> here is how the tripple link lookswith the mid blocked off


Would it work blocking off the bottom and using the top two spots?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cchoy87;12426516*
> Would it work blocking off the bottom and using the top two spots?


ya if you read the last 2-3 pages it explains that, thats what im doing


----------



## Qu1ckset

Does performance-pc sell the low profile brackets for the gtx 580?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Seems like they only have the high flow bracket, but it says GTX 500/400 so MAYBE you can use a 400 series low profile bracket.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28464


----------



## Qu1ckset

where can i get the low profile brackets, cuz ebay doesn't even have them..


----------



## wermad

keep the oem one's, the water block is as or heavier than the stock hsf. btw, the ek brdige does provide a good amount of rigidity to help prevent pcb bowing.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12426751*
> keep the oem one's, the water block is as or heavier than the stock hsf. btw, the ek brdige does provide a good amount of rigidity to help prevent pcb bowing.


i got a silverstone raven my motherboard, is flipped 90degress, so all my connection come out the top of my case, so in other words the block is not going to be bending the gpu pcb anyway


----------



## x Yoko

^ Pics are a must now. I almost bought a SS Raven instead of the TJ07. But I needed internal space for rads.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;12427093*
> ^ Pics are a must now. I almost bought a SS Raven instead of the TJ07. But I needed internal space for rads.


I Have pics of my computer, but no water cooling yet, still waiting on a few more parts, maybe next week or the week after il build it, its going to look sick, i got like $2000 worth of stuff to go in it lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12426727*
> Seems like they only have the high flow bracket, but it says GTX 500/400 so MAYBE you can use a 400 series low profile bracket.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28464


This^^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12426851*
> i got a silverstone raven my motherboard, is flipped 90degress, so all my connection come out the top of my case, so in other words the block is not going to be bending the gpu pcb anyway


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_411&products_id=28463


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12427866*
> This^^^
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_411&products_id=28463


That is going to work the same on gtx 580?


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12428882*
> That is going to work the same on gtx 580?


it should, im using single slots from my old gtx 480's on my new 580's they fit without any issues for me.


----------



## grazz1984

Hi people im new to watercooling and i just wanted to kno wot is the best coolant to use and were to get it from


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12436604*
> Hi people im new to watercooling and i just wanted to kno wot is the best coolant to use and were to get it from


Distilled water. Get it from a grocery store.

You will wanted to add a silver kill coil or a few drops of Petra's PT Nuke to the water.


----------



## Mongol

Distilled water with pt nuke or a silver kill coil (or the new silver plated fittings on sale at performance-pcs.com) Don't use dyes or pre-made cooling liquids that can separate and muck up your loop over time)


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12436962*
> Distilled water with pt nuke or a silver kill coil (or the new silver plated fittings on sale at performance-pcs.com) Don't use dyes or pre-made cooling liquids that can separate and muck up your loop over time)


Thank you will defo get some of that, how do you post a log of your build on this site?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12428882*
> That is going to work the same on gtx 580?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;12428924*
> it should, im using single slots from my old gtx 480's on my new 580's they fit without any issues for me.


this^^^

I ordered one, total overkill but I had to haves itsz


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12437944*
> Thank you will defo get some of that, how do you post a log of your build on this site?


Create a thread titled whatever you want..like...

Build-log: (name of build log/rig)

In the appropriate forum...watercooling or under the build log section of whichever cpu you use and link the threads url to your sig as an internet shortcut/link.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12438055*
> this^^^
> 
> I ordered one, total overkill but I had to haves itsz


What is that??,


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12438587*
> What is that??,


a ram waterblock for corsair ram, it looks cool but sure is poinless.

but when u are OCN every .2 degree matters, and looks


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12438587*
> What is that??,


Flux capacitor for a 1982 DeLorean... J/K

I believe it is a RAM water block.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12438622*
> a ram waterblock for corsair ram, it looks cool but sure is poinless.
> 
> but when u are OCN every .2 degree matters, and looks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12438630*
> Flux capacitor for a 1982 DeLorean... J/K
> 
> I believe it is a RAM water block.


Both are correct; its a ram block for Dominators, its pointless, and...



edit: we need a water cooling overkill club


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12438791*
> edit: we need a water cooling overkill club


So when does EK's CMOS battery waterblock come out?


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12438842*
> So when does EK's CMOS battery waterblock come out?


I'd get it in a heartbeat!


----------



## Kahbrohn

I am still waiting for the fan motor water blocks.


----------



## metro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12438842*
> So when does EK's CMOS battery waterblock come out?


Right after their waterblock for cooling your waterblock comes out.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12438842*
> So when does EK's CMOS battery waterblock come out?


hells yeah!!!1

lol, I draw the line @ mb block, the ram block was just an impulse buy, lol, and just for bling bling. Though I hope I can push my doms a bit more than 1600


----------



## Dissentience

I need a waterblock to cool my radiator.


----------



## koven

on a more serious note, anyone know if EK plans to release P67 blocks? or does any universal blocks work on the P67 VRM/Mosfets?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12439003*
> on a more serious note, anyone know if EK plans to release P67 blocks? or does any universal blocks work on the P67 VRM/Mosfets?


for uni vrm blocks try Koolance, they have a block for vrm, just measure your stock vrm heatsink thermalpad for the length you need. find the closest heat plate.

Ek still has yet to release them, keep and eye on their site, they usually will post on their news section about new releases or email them.


----------



## Infernosaint

They have said they are making for Maximus Extreme and UD-5 and UD-7. No date yet, ETA was 7 weeks, 19th January.


----------



## cigarbug

My First WC Build



















Comments suggestions appreciated

Can I join the club?


----------



## ttaylor0024

Does this mean I get to join the club??!









Leak testing for 3ish hours now... I really just want to use it but I must control myself...


----------



## AdvanSuper

This is the water cooling club, not the paper towel club!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024*


Does this mean I get to join the club??!









Leak testing for 3ish hours now... I really just want to use it but I must control myself...


Its a crime scene cover to up the victim









One hour is good enough, if none of the towels are damp or moist, its good.

Good suggestion, double and triple check your fittings are tight and secured. Once you master wc, leak test are completed in minutes


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12440591*
> Does this mean I get to join the club??!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leak testing for 3ish hours now... I really just want to use it but I must control myself...


Please slide the tubing further onto the res return line, for me?







It looks so close to slipping off... Otherwise great job and as wermad said, once you get the hang of it setting up a loop is easy, you know what to look for and what to avoid


----------



## Qu1ckset

i cant wait to build my loop...


----------



## mekaw

I ended up adding another 240 rad. so here's new updated pictor.

just leak testing where new fittings been placed


----------



## bundymania

Nice Perfomance again from a Koolance Waterblock


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Love all the manufacturers finally starting to make tops for the D5! Thanks for the great pics as usual Bundy!


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12441068*
> This is the water cooling club, not the paper towel club!!


Happy now?


----------



## grazz1984

hiya people ive been looking at these silver kill coils, were do they go in the loop?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12446524*
> hiya people ive been looking at these silver kill coils, were do they go in the loop?


anywhere but inside the pump









if you have a tube or bay res that works best


----------



## grazz1984

im getting the Phobya Balancer 150 Reservoir - Silver Nickel so i just drop the silver kill coil in there when im filling the loop?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12446597*
> im getting the Phobya Balancer 150 Reservoir - Silver Nickel so i just drop the silver kill coil in there when im filling the loop?


Yup. perfect, drop it in there and it will work its magic.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12446641*
> Yup. perfect, drop it in there and it will work its magic.


Exellent and how are the Swiftech MCP655 Laing D5 Vario pumps i like the look of them but as im new i dont really kno how they performe. and what is the best skt 775 waterblock to use?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12446197*
> Happy now?


No









Time for some wiremanagement and if possible sleeving









This is ocd.ne....I mean ocn.net









Pretty case btw


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12447118*
> No
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for some wiremanagement and if possible sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is ocd.ne....I mean ocn.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty case btw


Haha yeah, sleeving is next on my list. My case blows for wire management, and my 8pin mobo cable is just a bit too short









I liked the case alot better before I found that the top fins were baking my rad and majorly increasing my temps. About 2 hours ago I decided to take the top off and see what temps I would get. Whiten 5 minutes it dropped 10C. Now I have a mod project on my hands.....


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12446795*
> Exellent and how are the Swiftech MCP655 Laing D5 Vario pumps i like the look of them but as im new i dont really kno how they performe. and what is the best skt 775 waterblock to use?


They are great


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12447209*
> Haha yeah, sleeving is next on my list. My case blows for wire management, and my 8pin mobo cable is just a bit too short
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the case alot better before I found that the top fins were baking my rad and majorly increasing my temps. About 2 hours ago I decided to take the top off and see what temps I would get. Whiten 5 minutes it dropped 10C. Now I have a mod project on my hands.....


Looks like your rad was suppose to be mounted on the back of the case..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12448491*
> Looks like your rad was suppose to be mounted on the back of the case..


The case was made for it to be mounted where it is....


----------



## wermad

if you are in the US, FurryLetters has the best price on high density sleeve (black only though):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360277181171&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12449472*
> if you are in the US, FurryLetters has the best price on high density sleeve (black only though):
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360277181171&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT


Paracord is the way I'm going


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12449308*
> The case was made for it to be mounted where it is....


after taking a second look your right, the only reason i said that is because i saw the tube wholes at the back, but after looking there is no room at the back lol


----------



## Infernosaint

Yeah, I imagine they would be a problem for airflow. 10C is a lot! :O

Makes me want to take off the bottom fans and clean dust off the rad, right now. Had it running with the back as intake with no filter for a couple of months.


----------



## Gabe3384

Update on my rig.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gabe3384*


Update on my rig.
















































i like that res, i would get a dres up kit for the 655, and remove that faceplate, and let the beatiful pump show


----------



## RushMore1205

check out the silver 50mm extensions i got for my top rad, makes the ecompression fitting on the level with the fans, so easier to reach, silver plated:


----------



## Gabe3384

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12450385*
> i like that res, i would get a dres up kit for the 655, and remove that faceplate, and let the beatiful pump show


Here is with out.It looks way better lol.


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gabe3384*


Here is with out.It looks way better lol.




















Hmm, I like that.. I should try, i have the same res + 2 red LEDS in it.


----------



## Qu1ckset

i havnt put mine together yet because i still have to order all my gpu blocks and sli bridges, but i looked at my rez(it the same as yours ^^ where do you put the blue led???


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12451020*
> i havnt put mine together yet because i still have to order all my gpu blocks and sli bridges, but i looked at my rez(it the same as yours ^^ where do you put the blue led???


There's 2x 5mm mounting holes at the back, next to the inlet/output holes.


----------



## Gabe3384

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


i havnt put mine together yet because i still have to order all my gpu blocks and sli bridges, but i looked at my rez(it the same as yours ^^ where do you put the blue led???


if u look at the res on the back it shoudl have two holes right next to the return line.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gabe3384*


if u look at the res on the back it shoudl have two holes right next to the return line.


Sick i sooo cant wait to but mine together, its gunna look hella sickin my raven







, im jealous everyday looking at every1s nasty looking rigs all done up with your loops, well 80% of my builds lying on the floor waiting to be put in lol


----------



## Gabe3384

Yeah man this combo i did its hella awsome havent broke 55c in 75F to 78F ambient with this chip yet at 1.4v.I can only imagine what is gona do with a 2600k im already prepared for it have the back plate ready mwahahaha.The only bad thing is i have to wait till the end of march to order. This is what im pushing my rad with.

  
 You Tube


----------



## mbudden

Hope you have a gaming headset LOL.


----------



## Gabe3384

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Hope you have a gaming headset LOL.


to tell u the truth they are set to about half throttle and are quite my yate 140 yates are the loudest in my case right now im actually really anoyed by them since i need both of them at 100% to get proper airflow in the case.Even at 3/4 to half they whine really bad and they are brand new. So the rear fan is pushing air in the case in conjuction with the bottom one. i can post a vid of the noise if u want to hear it.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gabe3384*


to tell u the truth they are set to about half throttle and are quite my yate 140 yates are the loudest in my case right now im actually really anoyed by them since i need both of them at 100% to get proper airflow in the case.Even at 3/4 to half they whine really bad and they are brand new. So the rear fan is pushing air in the case in conjuction with the bottom one. i can post a vid of the noise if u want to hear it.


yeah , the raeason i never bought 800d is cause it has horrible airflow, in my opion


----------



## Gabe3384

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


yeah , the raeason i never bought 800d is cause it has horrible airflow, in my opion


Its actually not that bad as long as u upgrade your 2 140mm and add the 120mm at the bottom im just running in to noise problems with the yates being 2 loud but only because they whine as the GT's are just insane.


----------



## velocd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


yeah , the raeason i never bought 800d is cause it has horrible airflow, in my opion


At stock it's not very good, it's definitely a water cooling optimized chassis. However a few minor adjustments and it can be very breezy. e.g. change rear exhaust to intake, add a 120mm 3-bay intake fan in the front, swap all 140mm fans with better 120mm fans.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gabe3384*


Yeah man this combo i did its hella awsome havent broke 55c in 75F to 78F ambient with this chip yet at 1.4v.I can only imagine what is gona do with a 2600k im already prepared for it have the back plate ready mwahahaha.The only bad thing is i have to wait till the end of march to order. This is what im pushing my rad with.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9N3jA8YPIs


That fan is insane, and you have two of them in your case, most sound like an aircraft, im hoping the 6 ap15s im putting on my rad is not going to be that loud, considering the rad is going to sit on the back of the case on the outside, but i guess thats my fan controllers job....


----------



## RushMore1205

EK LOVER HERE lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


EK LOVER HERE lol











what are those between the rad and fans, do they make a big difference?
and i have a question, so my rad is going to sit on the back of my case, but there is no holes on the back of my case, so when i mount the rad there, the fans are going to sit about a inch away from the case. so should that side be set as intake or exhaust?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


what are those between the rad and fans, do they make a big difference?
and i have a question, so my rad is going to sit on the back of my case, but there is no holes on the back of my case, so when i mount the rad there, the fans are going to sit about a inch away from the case. so should that side be set as intake or exhaust?



those are called shrouds, they create a tunel for the air to go through which allowes to to cool a better area, of the rad, it helped me lower 2c on cpu, and that was with one rad only,the rad can face which ever way you want, check my log in my signature for more pics to get a better idea of how it all works


----------



## Gabe3384

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


That fan is insane, and you have two of them in your case, most sound like an aircraft, im hoping the 6 ap15s im putting on my rad is not going to be that loud, considering the rad is going to sit on the back of the case on the outside, but i guess thats my fan controllers job....


I have 3 on the rad with a extreme subeam fan controller controlling all the fans on my case. When they first power on they sound crazy and move some major air im surprised my computer doesnt take off. But all noise aside it does what i want it to do and thats keep my computer cool and have the extra cooling power when i need it. Also i installed a custom "pantihose fan filter" on my rear yateloon and some how it got rid of the whine







.It must of been a "stallin air" or something like that from the rear mesh as i have the fan intaking cold air. But as a note im happy as it can be about my build so far.


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

EK pron was hawt.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Ok so this is what i would need to run a 2sli w/c set up minus the compression fittings and tubes

2x Gpu Block
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29843

1x 3way sli w/c bridge "Serial"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27825

1x Blank cap "Serial"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28003

i would need nothing else?


i know this is old but you also need two geforce links


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CH4PZ*


i know this is old but you also need two geforce links










the updated list was on page 820

So My build is this then:

2x Gpu Blocks
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29843

1x 3way sli Bridge "Parallel"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27827

3x sli Links (1 extra for when i get 3rd card)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27830

1x Blank sli Link "Parallel"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28004

but i have one problem the single slot brackets are out of stock where can i find them?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28463


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


the updated list was on page 820

So My build is this then:

2x Gpu Blocks
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29843

1x 3way sli Bridge "Parallel"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27827

3x sli Links (1 extra for when i get 3rd card)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27830

1x Blank sli Link "Parallel"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28004

but i have one problem the single slot brackets are out of stock where can i find them?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28463


 i get all my EK stuff from theyre e-shop on the ek site, theyre a bit cheaper but what you save you usually pay back in shipping but im in australia so we basically have to get everything shipped anyways, but its here:

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12452268*
> EK LOVER HERE lol


how do you post pictures like that??


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12456141*
> how do you post pictures like that??


do you mean how do you embed an image in a post?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12456180*
> do you mean how do you embed an image in a post?


ya


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

Upload to a hosting site like imageshack and post the code.


----------



## PCSarge

i dont have an update as of yet, waiting for xfx to ship my 5770 back...a third time... in the meantime ill post with my not in need of cooling 8600GTS


















DD fillport
Feser UV silver Tube
Swiftech 240 rad
Modded MCP 350
Swiftech Mcres V2
Sythe kaze master 4 channel controller
4x coolermaster R4s on rad
Alphacool 775 WB with modified mount bracket and screws
EK FC 86

coming soon is the following changes:

xfx 5770 REF card W/ EK FC 5770 nickel/acetal
BFG 8800GTS OC w/ BFG engraved block

and yeah thats the best looked after pc youll ever see







cleaned every 2 weeks


----------



## ScurK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge;12456542*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool 775 WB with modified mount bracket and screws**1*
> 
> and yeah thats the best looked after pc youll ever see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaned every 2 weeks**2*


**1* I noticed the WB is kind of awkwardly seated, is that because it's modded?

**2* As we all know, women _love_ cleaning!


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge;12456542*
> i dont have an update as of yet, waiting for xfx to ship my 5770 back...a third time... in the meantime ill post with my not in need of cooling 8600GTS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DD fillport
> Feser UV silver Tube
> Swiftech 240 rad
> Modded MCP 350
> Swiftech Mcres V2
> Sythe kaze master 4 channel controller
> 4x coolermaster R4s on rad
> Alphacool 775 WB with modified mount bracket and screws
> EK FC 86
> 
> coming soon is the following changes:
> 
> xfx 5770 REF card W/ EK FC 5770 nickel/acetal
> BFG 8800GTS OC w/ BFG engraved block
> 
> and yeah thats the best looked after pc youll ever see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaned every 2 weeks


aside from cleaning looks like theres alot of dust on the front intake by the hard drives
could use a touch up on the paint


----------



## MRHANDS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;12456922*
> **1* I noticed the WB is kind of awkwardly seated, is that because it's modded?
> 
> **2* As we all know, women _love_ cleaning!


it's an evga p55 mobo that also has lga 775 mounting holes. which the block is attached to.


----------



## AdmRose

Hey all. Few pics of my recently completed 300 setup. I'll get some internal pics later but the only thing in the loop is my Apogee GT - I don't really OC my GFX plus the IceQ does a great job cooling the 4850s. The hardware is:
Apogee GT block
XSPC X20 750 pump/res
Black Ice GTX360 rad
3 X Gentle Typhoon 1450 RPM
1/2" tubing
Distilled/PT nuke


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## grazz1984

Hiya again sorry for all the questions but would a 360mm rad fit in a Thermaltake Mozart TX case i kno i would beable to get 2 240mm rads in there atleast i want all the rads and everything internal ive seen that there is a place at the bottom of the case at the front were 3 fans will fit but it looks abit tight a a 360 rad. has anyone ever used one or modded one here so i can get some ideas onit, and another thing, wots it like for cable management?

Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge;12456542*
> Feser UV silver Tube


Awesome looking tube


----------



## BSB27

I have the images of my water cooling on my desktop. What URL do I use to upload my images?


----------



## BSB27

:gunner2:I'm working on my case so my parts are scattered hahah. I'll post more when the project is completed.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BSB27*









I'm working on my case so my parts are scattered hahah. I'll post more when the project is completed.



















You should really upgrade you cooling system. That thing isn't going to cool worth a crap compared to a real custom loop.


----------



## BSB27

Oh believe me I am going to but right now money is super for me. Especially with the court suckin' money out of my wallet.


----------



## CjGemini

Got a new case and did a complete redesign on my Rig


----------



## BSB27

****in cool man







How are the headphones hanging onto the case?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CjGemini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BSB27;12460938*
> ****in cool man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are the headphones hanging onto the case?


it comes with piece to hang up headphones







this case is so sick


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BSB27;12460413*
> :gunner2:I'm working on my case so my parts are scattered hahah. I'll post more when the project is completed.


TT Bigwater, say it ain't so!


----------



## Qu1ckset

I Really want this case it looks so badass, but i cant tell if i can fit 3 580s and 360style rad on the back, it looks like you can with abit of modding what do you think?










[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4IE55VL8oo[/ame]


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Few, check my build log for more


----------



## BSB27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12463257*
> TT Bigwater, say it ain't so!


Oh it is so.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12463717*
> Few, check my build log for more


I see you got some support on the back but the false floor looks like its sagging a bit


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12465336*
> I see you got some support on the back but the false floor looks like its sagging a bit


yeah i agree, when u install the poweruspply you should put some sort of a shim between that and the cealing so it wount look so curved you know, cause thats the first thing you notice when u look at that pic


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12463717*
> Few, check my build log for more


thats lookn good, i personally would mount that 240 vertically, at the front and cut some inlet holes, maybe even put those turbine looking mnpc tech fan grills on front and go push pull, looks like you got the room, then it blows cool air over gpu's too:thumb: but love what ya done with it, sexc az:drum:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Does anyone know if they mack these in black, and if they make one that controls more, and lastly where to purchase these?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12465877*
> thats lookn good, i personally would mount that 240 vertically, at the front and cut some inlet holes, maybe even put those turbine looking mnpc tech fan grills on front and go push pull, looks like you got the room, then it blows cool air over gpu's too:thumb: but love what ya done with it, sexc az:drum:


Ya that would be a SR-1 280 not a small 240







(SR1 420 on the roof)

And I am NOT cutting up the front of this case.

GPUs are water cooled so I don't need air on them

Thanks, it is of course a work in progress


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12468493*
> Ya that would be a SR-1 280 not a small 240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (SR1 420 on the roof)
> And I am NOT cutting up the front of this case.
> GPUs are water cooled so I don't need air on them
> Thanks, it is of course a work in progress


Why are you mounting the 280 there instead of in the bottom, what's your plan for airflow?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12469319*
> Why are you mounting the 280 there instead of in the bottom, what's your plan for airflow?


I want the SSD and HDD in the lower rack, I don't like the upper rack so I decided to put it there. Plus it would be a waste of tubing to mount it on the bottom.

The air flow would be any different? no

I plan to put a 120mm in the door(right above the rad) with my Overkill grille

FYI all the fans are blowing upward


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i Finally found a good picture of the back on Raven RV03, do you think the 360style rad will fit, i personally think so, do you?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


I want the SSD and HDD in the lower rack, I don't like the upper rack so I decided to put it there. Plus it would be a waste of tubing to mount it on the bottom.

The air flow would be any different? no

I plan to put a 120mm in the door(right above the rad) with my Overkill grille

FYI all the fans are blowing upward


Just curious how you're going to feed cool air to that top rad is all. Having the top exhausting and the 280 blowing upward is just going to feed that top rad with hot air, I think you'll find that it affects the temps alot more than you expect.


----------



## The_Punisher

I already posted pics in my build log, but go ahead and add me here, this is my new WC system


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Just curious how you're going to feed cool air to that top rad is all. Having the top exhausting and the 280 blowing upward is just going to feed that top rad with hot air, I think you'll find that it affects the temps alot more than you expect.


I have the rear 140mm fan as intake, feeding the top rad with air

...and again there will be a fan exhausting on the door above the 280 rad to blow the air out of the case.

Sorry I just don't see the problem and cant imagine having cooling issues with these rads when I was running the system on 2 much much much small rads (the pro360 and xflow120) and getting outstanding temps with that setup.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Punisher*


I already posted pics in my build log, but go ahead and add me here, this is my new WC system
































































Looks great

Needs a new window though, the mesh in that hole is


----------



## The_Punisher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


Looks great

Needs a new window though, the mesh in that hole is










Agreed. I had a big hole in the stock window and nothing to put there so I used the grill that I cut out of the rear fan mount









Next on the agenda is to make a full window for it.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Punisher*


Agreed. I had a big hole in the stock window and nothing to put there









Next on the agenda is to make a full window for it.


nice, cant you just cut that area out and just put in a new piece of acrylic(for the whole window?)?


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


nice, cant you just cut that area out and just put in a new piece of acrylic(for the whole window?)?


^^^thats what i was thinking^^^


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CH4PZ*


^^^thats what i was thinking^^^


but i said it 1st


----------



## The_Punisher

That's the plan, just need to get some of that double-sided 3M tape.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Does anyone know if they mack these in black, and if they make one that controls more, and lastly where to purchase these?




















Those are just simple PCI fan controllers. I'm not sure who makes the one in the top photo, though I found one that looks similar on camera2000.com. The bottom is made by a company called Sunbeam. Check out Newegg or Frozencpu.com.

To be honest with you, I'd go with a multi-fan controller like the Scythe Kaze Master. It's only what? 30 bucks? It's got a classy look (black with black dials) and a classy looking readout screen. Just my opinion though.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XNine*


Those are just simple PCI fan controllers. I'm not sure who makes the one in the top photo, though I found one that looks similar on camera2000.com. The bottom is made by a company called Sunbeam. Check out Newegg or Frozencpu.com.

To be honest with you, I'd go with a multi-fan controller like the Scythe Kaze Master. It's only what? 30 bucks? It's got a classy look (black with black dials) and a classy looking readout screen. Just my opinion though.


warning on the sunbearm tho... it looks and feels cheap. Lamptron controllers are a better choice in that department.


----------



## Gabe3384

Sunbeam extreme. http://jab-tech.com/Sunbeam-Rheobus-...k-pr-4090.html


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gabe3384*










Sunbeam extreme. http://jab-tech.com/Sunbeam-Rheobus-...k-pr-4090.html



I already have sunbeamtech rheosmart 6 , I was just curious if there was decent pci bracket fan controllers.. just seeing my option, since I'm switching to the raven rv03 in April


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tzillian

hey guys, my new mountain mods case is arriving tomorrow and im planning on setting up my 3x 360 rads with push/pull and shrouds. i believe there is enough space but will be waiting for the case to arrive to test it out before buying screws. i will be using gentle typhoon ap 15's as fans and old fans as shrouds. thats 50mm, plus case i think o would need some 55mm by M3 screws, preferably black. anyone know where i could purchase such screws. thanks.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tzillian*


hey guys, my new mountain mods case is arriving tomorrow and im planning on setting up my 3x 360 rads with push/pull and shrouds. i believe there is enough space but will be waiting for the case to arrive to test it out before buying screws. i will be using gentle typhoon ap 15's as fans and old fans as shrouds. thats 50mm, plus case i think o would need some 55mm by M3 screws, preferably black. anyone know where i could purchase such screws. thanks.


Here: That's 50mm, McMaster is the place to look though.


----------



## tzillian

thank you, but no luck. 50mm is the longest they have. any other retailers?


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine;12473619*
> Those are just simple PCI fan controllers. I'm not sure who makes the one in the top photo, though I found one that looks similar on camera2000.com. The bottom is made by a company called Sunbeam. Check out Newegg or Frozencpu.com.
> 
> To be honest with you, I'd go with a multi-fan controller like the Scythe Kaze Master. It's only what? 30 bucks? It's got a classy look (black with black dials) and a classy looking readout screen. Just my opinion though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12473870*
> warning on the sunbearm tho... it looks and feels cheap. Lamptron controllers are a better choice in that department.


^^^I would agree. Lamptron is great.^^^

How about a Lamptron FC6..?? Or one of these http://www.lamptron.com/products/Controller_Devices/ ..?? They have different types with different amount of wattage per channel and different amount of knobs.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Lamptron Touch Fan Controller dominates. I never had to touch my fans. Controls everything automatically dependent upon temps. It also gives the front of the case a nice flush look.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12477281*
> Lamptron Touch Fan Controller dominates. I never had to touch my fans. Controls everything automatically dependent upon temps. It also gives the front of the case a nice flush look.


I have the FC6 and I love it.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12477303*
> I have the FC6 and I love it.


really every lamptron controller is great. Sunbeam just sucks tho. It feels and looks ghetto. I was deciding between the two when I bought the touch and the touch was new so I had to give it a shot.


----------



## RushMore1205

i absolutly love my fan controller, got a kaze master, and a aerocool touch 2000


----------



## Yukss

new pics


----------



## Mongol

So, using Martin's flow estimator, I'm just over 1GPM flowrate with a water/air delta of 10c. D:

I'm picking up a bunch of coolermaster excaliburs and closing off the mesh around the fan with electrical tape...tried that on one I have mounted as a case intake fan and the thing just pushes air like a madman @ 1800-2000 rpm...felt a somewhat noticeable change in static pressure.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is a 360style rad enough for 3gpu and cpu?? and is a 240style good enough, just checking out my options..


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12486963*
> Is a 360style rad enough for 3gpu and cpu?? and is a 240style good enough, just checking out my options..


I'd suggest at least a 480 for that.


----------



## RushMore1205

I think a 360 is perfectly fine, 480 if you want best temps or a 360+240 would work,

Res--> pump--> 240mm rad--> CPU --> 360 rad--> 3x GPU--> back to res


----------



## Infernosaint

How would a 360 GTX rad, with 6 GT AP-15's in push/pull do for my CPU and 2 480's? Only slight overclocking on the 480's, with little to none overvoltage. I have a MCP-655 Vario at max, as my pump, btw.


----------



## RushMore1205

^^^^ you will be fine man, we tend to overkill things on ocn but you will be perfectly fine I built 2 simmilar rigs similiar to your set up, but I used mcp355 pumps, but you will be ok with yours not problem, ek or koolance block dont hav very restrictive paths


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12477344*
> really every lamptron controller is great. Sunbeam just sucks tho. It feels and looks ghetto. I was deciding between the two when I bought the touch and the touch was new so I had to give it a shot.


I loved my Fan-Atic but the DDC would not work w/ its dual mode style. I love the looks my of Scythe Kaze Master Pro but its a weakling in terms of wattage per channel. I might get the Lamptron 8 channel knob style controller.

http://www.mountainmods.com/lamptron-fc8-fan-controller-black-p-624.html


----------



## RushMore1205

That's a lot of knobs


----------



## koven

meh i got a sunbeam rheobus for $10 and it's awesome, lol


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12487083*
> I think a 360 is perfectly fine, 480 if you want best temps or a 360+240 would work,
> 
> Res--> pump--> 240mm rad--> CPU --> 360 rad--> 3x GPU--> back to res


im not 100% sure if both will fit, I might just stick to 2 gtx 580s onstead of 3, im not 100% the 360 style is even going to fit, but i wont be able to tell till its released.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12487643*
> meh i got a sunbeam rheobus for $10 and it's awesome, lol


>< where do you guys find all these sweet deals?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12487624*
> That's a lot of knobs


I got a few fans


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12487683*
> im not 100% sure if both will fit, I might just stick to 2 gtx 580s onstead of 3, im not 100% the 360 style is even going to fit, but i wont be able to tell till its released.


yeah the raven is not really best and easiest WC case, but if done right looks great, god luck man, im sure with even two 580s you will rip through any game out there with no issues


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12488167*
> yeah the raven is not really best and easiest WC case, but if done right looks great, god luck man, im sure with even two 580s you will rip through any game out there with no issues


I can fit the 360 on the raven rv01, but im planning on buying the raven rv03 in April because i like that case better, and they put the window on the proper side unlike the raven rv02.. but i think it will work, and they made it easy to install a 240 style rad inside,

and the reason im thinking about the third 580 is because i want to max my games smoothly with my 30" 2560x1600 monitor, il try 2 and see what happens


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12487324*
> I loved my Fan-Atic but the DDC would not work w/ its dual mode style. I love the looks my of Scythe Kaze Master Pro but its a weakling in terms of wattage per channel. I might get the Lamptron 8 channel knob style controller.
> 
> http://www.mountainmods.com/lamptron-fc8-fan-controller-black-p-624.html


looks like a pretty solid controller. The 30 watts per channel is awesome. I don't think I'd ever get one under that.


----------



## Qu1ckset

If I cant fit the 360 on the back il put a 240 there and a 240 inside, that's the same as having a 480 right? Just go rez>rad>2-3gtx 580s>rad>cpu>rez
What is the best 240style rad, do they have one like black ice gtx 360 gen two ?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Which one of these rads are better link1 or link2?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=20983

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=25925

And i was planning on putting a stealth rad inside but i dont think it will fit because of the motherboard(pic1), and if i where to remove the stock ap181 fans at the bottom and mount the rad there, i dont think there will be enough clearance for the 580s (pic2)



















Im really trying to make this case work for watercooling because i like it, but i dont know if its going to work


----------



## Onions

i got the rv 01 im doing a re build atm ill post some pics when im done but what i did is cut the back out and put a rad there and a 240 on teh floor the back is a 360 btw. looks ****ty cause i sucked with a dremel before gonna try and salvage it lol alota work to do XD


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12489346*
> i got the rv 01 im doing a re build atm ill post some pics when im done but what i did is cut the back out and put a rad there and a 240 on teh floor the back is a 360 btw. looks ****ty cause i sucked with a dremel before gonna try and salvage it lol alota work to do XD


I have the rv01 and you know it comes with mounting brackets for a 360style rad and there was no reason to chop your case lol


----------



## Onions

i know but i wanted the flow into the case.... it made sense when i started building computers lol it doesnt matter rly im getting a new case soon enough anyways so meh.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Which one of these rads are better link1 or link2?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20983

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25925

And i was planning on putting a stealth rad inside but i dont think it will fit because of the motherboard(pic1), and if i where to remove the stock ap181 fans at the bottom and mount the rad there, i dont think there will be enough clearance for the 580s (pic2)


Comparing those radiators is like comparing apples and oranges. The SR1 model radiator is the best rad for fans under 900 rpm while the GTX is the best rad for fans over 1500 rpm. Pick you poison. They are both extremely high build quality. I swear by the SR1s since I love me some silent systems.


----------



## solar0987

Updated pics








im officially actually water now 
not fully done but heres a sneak peek
before 









after


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


the reason im thinking about the third 580 is because i want to max my games smoothly with my 30" 2560x1600 monitor, il try 2 and see what happens


you should be more than fine with 2 **Cough** overkill**Cough** lol


----------



## bundymania




----------



## CH4PZ

oOooOOOoo a white one


----------



## Mongol

that white rad sure is sexy...makes me want to paint the 800 and redo...

hmmm.


----------



## Onions

^ thats what i do then i look at my bank balance and i cry XD


----------



## CP2

Here's my latest creation and addition to you WC fam.


----------



## Onions

i spy a kink *gasp


----------



## CP2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12494201*
> i spy a kink *gasp


It only looks like one. LOL. I made sure there weren't any. Even though it isn't the optimal looking setup. I have a few 90 fittings coming in to remedy some of the long tube necessity.


----------



## Onions

ok good stuff lol


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ok so after staring at the pictures i have of the upcoming case im ordering. i dont think the 360 will fit, but i can for sure put a 240 rad on the back and put a 120 inside at the back. here is the thing if i did res>240Rad>2GPUs>120rad>Cpu>res it would look stupid imo, because the rads are beside each other.

So would it be ok if i did Res>240rad>120>2GPUs>Cpu>res? Would the temps be alot different?


----------



## PDXMark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12493641*
> that white rad sure is sexy...makes me want to paint the 800 and redo...
> 
> hmmm.


The rad was not white, it was negative-black. Would still look way cool though!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CP2;12494235*
> It only looks like one. LOL. I made sure there weren't any. Even though it isn't the optimal looking setup. I have a few 90 fittings coming in to remedy some of the long tube necessity.


You have a bay res?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12492242*
> you should be more than fine with 2 **Cough** overkill**Cough** lol


After Playing Crysis and Metro at max, I Noticed at 2560x1600 it takes abit of time (Like 1-2 Secs) to load the textures to max detail with my one gtx580 and my card is at 100%fan(which in afterburner is 80%). so i thought with second it will be able to play the games smoother and easier, so i dont know how its "Overkill"


----------



## CP2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12497018*
> You have a bay res?


Yup, the dual bay res/pump that comes with the XSPC RX360 kit. It actually works pretty good as far as i can tell so far. Res/Pump-->rad-->CPU-->rad-->GPU1-->GPU2-->res/pump


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CP2;12497065*
> Yup, the dual bay res/pump that comes with the XSPC RX360 kit. It actually works pretty good as far as i can tell so far. Res/Pump-->rad-->CPU-->rad-->GPU1-->GPU2-->res/pump


I'm using 1/2x3/4 primo tube. Just use a bit of tube w/ a subtle bend to avoid kinking w/ either a too long or too short piece tube.


----------



## CP2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12497121*
> I'm using 1/2x3/4 primo tube. Just use a bit of tube w/ a subtle bend to avoid kinking w/ either a too long or too short piece tube.


Yeah, I had to use a little more tube than I wanted to prevent from kinking.


----------



## mbudden

Could always use anti-kink coils.


----------



## CP2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12497399*
> Could always use anti-kink coils.


This is true, but I simply dislike the way they look. I'm not doubting their functionality though.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12497399*
> Could always use anti-kink coils.


No thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CP2;12499754*
> This is true, but I simply dislike the way they look. I'm not doubting their functionality though.


They look bad and also are really the suck, they harden over time and if you ever have to change the setup the coils and tubing is worthless for the second go around.

I recommend fittings just setting it up in a way to prevent kinks.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CP2;12499754*
> This is true, but I simply dislike the way they look. I'm not doubting their functionality though.


Clear ones.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=400&products_id=22838

Problem solved.


----------



## wermad

no coils for me, tried em, don't like em


----------



## koven

coils suck.. rotary 45/95 fittings ftw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12500380*
> coils suck.. r*otary 45/95 fittings ftw*


And higher restriction!!!

lol, a good pump should be fine w/ a few angled fittings


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12500907*
> And higher restriction!!!
> 
> lol, a good pump should be fine w/ a few angled fittings


angled fittings only add a tiny fracktion to the restriction levels


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12500907*
> And higher restriction!!!
> 
> lol, a good pump should be fine w/ a few angled fittings


haha, think about how much more restriction that EK SLI bridge causes compared to a few angle fittings


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12501684*
> haha, think about how much more restriction that EK SLI bridge causes compared to a few angle fittings


hence why I gots a DDC 3.2







, ditto for you and your HK bridge.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12501779*
> hence why I gots a DDC 3.2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , ditto for you and your HK bridge.


the heatkiller bridges have way fewer twists and turns than the EK ones (and less parts) the hk bridge actually has less restriction than if I had fittings between each card.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12501877*
> the heatkiller bridges have way fewer twists and turns than the EK ones (and less parts) the hk bridge actually has less restriction than if I had fittings between each card.


mines universal among ek gpu blocks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12501923*
> mines universal among ek gpu blocks


as is mine among all heatkiller blocks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12501944*
> as is mine among all heatkiller blocks


you're limited to the "x^2" blocks w/ the vertical ports. all new gpu are "x^3" where the ports are now horizontal. so its limited for you bridge unfortunately, still I think HK crafts very nice looking gpu blocks


----------



## CH4PZ

fight fight fight:jerry:


----------



## CH4PZ

Heres a little sneak peak on the upgrades im doing to K4OT1K at the moment


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12502072*
> Heres a little sneak peak on the upgrades im doing to K4OT1K at the moment


Man thats looking real good!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12502030*
> you're limited to the "x^2" blocks w/ the vertical ports. all new gpu are "x^3" where the ports are now horizontal. so its limited for you bridge unfortunately, still I think HK crafts very nice looking gpu blocks


hmm, i didn't know that...

they look like the same shape from what I can find pictures of... is it just different sized tops?


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12502091*
> Man thats looking real good!


thanks mate


----------



## nickbaldwin86

OK I need a few suggestions, keep that or get some 90* fittings? can I make that tubing shorter or longer to make it better?



















....


----------



## elysion

almost finished and already running ;-)
http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/924969-cosmos-gtr-black-edition-mod-8-a.html
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1674268


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12502192*
> hmm, i didn't know that...
> 
> they look like the same shape from what I can find pictures of... is it just different sized tops?


hmm, you could be right, kinda hard to tell. but it does look like it might. so my bad, I might be wrong









Any one own the new HK gpu blocks ("x^3") can confirm this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12502072*
> Heres a little sneak peak on the upgrades im doing to K4OT1K at the moment


So sexy


----------



## Mongol

Oh I love water so much...lol...not that tf2 is the most graphically intense game out there...but im not going past 36c on all 3 [email protected] max everything 5940x1080.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12502693*
> OK I need a few suggestions, keep that or get some 90* fittings? can I make that tubing shorter or longer to make it better?


what about 45's at each end?


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12502846*
> So sexy


she has the hotz for your beast too


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12502846*
> hmm, you could be right, kinda hard to tell. but it does look like it might. so my bad, I might be wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any one own the new HK gpu blocks ("x^3") can confirm this?


http://hw-lab.com/watercool-heat-killer-gpu-x3-gtx-580.html
Quote:


> There are threads on both side of connection terminal, which helps in more efficient tube routing inside your case. For SLI systems Watercool also offers optimized Dual / Triple adapters .


I am pretty sure that this implies that they are the compatible since there is no x^3 bridge...

still not conclusive though, we need someone who owns the new blocks to chime in









I will say that it is nice that you can get blanks for the EK bridges, the HK ones you must use three cards to use the triple spacing bridge.


----------



## elysion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12502693*
> OK I need a few suggestions, keep that or get some 90* fittings? can I make that tubing shorter or longer to make it better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


get some 90 degrees from bitspower if it does not correlates with the parts on the board, it helps a lot and looks awesome too ;-) !


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12503263*
> http://hw-lab.com/watercool-heat-killer-gpu-x3-gtx-580.html
> 
> I am pretty sure that this implies that they are the compatible since there is no x^3 bridge...
> 
> still not conclusive though, we need someone who owns the new blocks to chime in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will say that it is nice that you can get blanks for the EK bridges, the HK ones you must use three cards to use the triple spacing bridge.


The pom piece is to add horizontal ports and it looks like it detaches for the HK bridge:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12503446*
> The pom piece is to add horizontal ports and it looks like it detaches for the HK bridge:


yea, thats the same as my blocks:


----------



## AdvanSuper

Chrome can't even handle the resolution of those pics... RESIZE PLOX!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12503523*
> yea, thats the same as my blocks:


Scary


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elysion;12503272*
> get some 90 degrees from bitspower if it does not correlates with the parts on the board, it helps a lot and looks awesome too ;-) !


I am thinking about ordering 4 just to do the blocks with, think it will be worth it, but still in the air about it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12503158*
> what about 45's at each end?


I tried this but the angles didn't match up and the tubing was force to kink right in the middle, from one block being higher than the other







and not enough distance between the blocks... was my original idea, why you can see that one on the end of the mosfit block


----------



## tipgo

I'm new member


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Hey nick what kind of tubing do you use?

Just curious.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12503546*
> Chrome can't even handle the resolution of those pics... RESIZE PLOX!


really? cause i am having no problems at all with IE


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12503666*
> Hey nick what kind of tubing do you use?
> 
> Just curious.


says tygon right there on it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12503523*
> yea, thats the same as my blocks:


woah, didn't realize the ports were very oval, almost slot like, hmm, may counter the two 90° bends the ek bridge takes







. Ok Im dropping this discussion, both look kick a$$


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12503666*
> Hey nick what kind of tubing do you use?
> 
> Just curious.


Black primochill tubing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12503712*
> says tygon right there on it


Where does it say Tygon?

It is black Primochill tubing


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12503712*
> says tygon right there on it


Guess it's primochill haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12503796*
> Black primochill tubing


Thanks


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12503680*
> really? cause i am having no problems at all with IE


It's just very slow while scrolling through them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12504066*
> It's just very slow while scrolling through them.


Firefox ftw


----------



## Launcherstrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;12503664*
> I'm new member


Holy crap that's nice


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;12503664*


This picture makes me cry.


----------



## airplaneman

tipgo, that looks amazing!


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;12503664*


Beautiful. Very inspirational mate!


----------



## mekaw

new radiator time

TA120.3


----------



## antuk15

Took some better pictures


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;12503664*
> I'm new member


Nice to see someone else cares about the back as much as I do.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12503796*
> Black primochill tubing
> 
> Where does it say Tygon?
> 
> It is black Primochill tubing


oh crap, I was looking at tipgo's pictures... my bad


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12508837*
> updated
> 
> oh crap, I was looking at tipgo's pictures... my bad


All good, Tygon does make black tubing so I just wanted to make sure it was 100% clear what tubing I was using:wave2:

At 1st though I wondered if the question was even in my direction


----------



## erocker

Added some quick disconnects and added the XSPC radiator to it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mekaw*


new radiator time

TA120.3




















Where did you get that shroud, im looking for sumthing like that


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Where did you get that shroud, im looking for sumthing like that


This.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


This.


link didnt work


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


link didnt work


I didn't post a link? I want to know too.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I didn't post a link? I want to know too.


Oh lmao my bad


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tipgo*





Beautiful rig dude









Is that all 18awg black strand wires?

I love the look I might give it a try, gonna need about 500' of 18 gauge black stranded wire...hmm...maybe 1000' will do


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tipgo*


I'm new member


I should post pics of my PC-P50R









Nice cable management, I don't think I could achieve it anywhere close to that level. I was kind of lazy on mine since I'm moving to a new case pretty soon anyways.


----------



## RushMore1205

took this pic, and thought it looked really cool


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12518183*
> took this pic, and thought it looked really cool
> 
> *snip*


Hey buddy, wanna stop posting pics of your rig? You're making us all jealous









I'm only playin', keep 'em coming! They look sick.


----------



## RushMore1205

sorry man, ill stop now, sorry i really like how it looks, and want everyone to see haaha

when i was younger i could of never had money for something like that, and now im done with school, landed the best job in the world


----------



## ScurK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12518289*
> and now im done with school, landed the best job in the world


What do you do? If I may ask.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;12518408*
> What do you do? If I may ask.


Im an IT consultant/Project Manger for an IT company that disignes the moves for Technology companies, midium to large.

im the guy who meets with the client, look at all the servers, see what new stuff they need, then work with the engineers to design the new datacenter and then manage the move/expand of the company from one location to another.

its kind of cool i get to travel all over the globe, been to Dubai, Singapore, all over the states.

We have contracts with Intel, Nvidia, and lots of other companies in the Silicone valley.


----------



## Zamoldac

He's Pimp!
LE: Or not:biggrinsm.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac;12518434*
> He's Pimp!
> LE: Or not:biggrinsm.


definalty not, there are people here who have way better skills, and jobs, OCN inspired me to go into the technology field, 2 years ago i was powdercoating stuff all day, doing physical work, now i work with my brain, and people skills.


----------



## Zamoldac

I've been working in software development a little over 2years now







it's ok but I still think Pimpin' it's better because:















J/K.


----------



## elysion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12518183*
> took this pic, and thought it looked really cool


nice, TFC shrouds, like em. why you face the Lamptron inside of the case? cheers mate


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elysion;12518494*
> nice, TFC shrouds, like em. why you face the Lamptron inside of the case? cheers mate


cause there is not room to put it ourside, there is already a fan controler in front, plus it looks cool like that.


----------



## [CyGnus]

You should get some kind of a reward for the most posted RIG in OCN... The Rig is nice looks good but with all that posting we will get bored of it... Though nice work in there mate


----------



## RushMore1205

yeah im done sorry guys


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12493618*
> oOooOOOoo a white one


Sorry for writing that, but i just inverted the picture


----------



## jp27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus];12518735*
> You should get some kind of a reward for the most posted RIG in OCN... The Rig is nice looks good but with all that posting we will get bored of it... Though nice work in there mate


ouch..... but i agree

just didnt want to be the one to say it, LoL


----------



## bundymania

...via DHL Express in 1 Day from Slovenia to me


----------



## terence52

finally my rig watercooled. with a cheap rasa rs240 thou


----------



## 161029

CPU only? It's nice that you went water cooling but if you want to watercool and see results, I'd say you should do your graphics card too.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12512440*
> I love the look I might give it a try, gonna need about 500' of 18 gauge black stranded wire...hmm...maybe 1000' will do


I dont even think I used 200' for my build. Every wire in my system has been touched. Even all the fans have had new black wires soldered on and repinned.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12519134*
> CPU only? It's nice that you went water cooling but if you want to watercool and see results, I'd say you should do your graphics card too.


Newcomers who are looking to get their feet wet first will almost always just go with the CPU (I did). They will then move on to GPU, MB, etc. Just taking small steps first running full blast. Also, there is the price factor!!! I personally didn't have all the money to go out and do a full loop so I decided to "spread" out the cost over time.


----------



## elysion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12518504*
> cause there is not room to put it ourside, there is already a fan controler in front, plus it looks cool like that.


yeah agree looks darn cool,
here is mine but not a stealthy rig like yours just a slightly modded Cosmos S not finish with the lighting and final pics needed too ;-)
































































project log in my sig...stay tuned


----------



## mbudden

People really do go all out on their leak testing...


----------



## elysion

yeah, at least a ton of toilette paper
and guess what you realize when you sitting on the toilette and don't see any around


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12512079*
> Where did you get that shroud, im looking for sumthing like that


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12512148*
> This.


It's a Swiftech 'RadBox' I'll dig up a link if you want but they're pretty easy to find.

@Nick, go for the 90's on the board, it makes it look much cleaner.


----------



## Mr OCN

*Loop Specs:*
EK Supreme HF Copper
EK XTC 240
Laing D5
EK Multi option 250 reservoir


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12518748*
> Sorry for writing that, but i just inverted the picture


aww u tease:sozo:


----------



## Mr OCN

Wow, Bundymania is on OCN too? i see him on the Australian forums a fair bit.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated (700 members)


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr OCN;12520997*
> Wow, Bundymania is on OCN too? i see him on the Australian forums a fair bit.


He's everywhere.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elysion;12519569*
> yeah agree looks darn cool,
> here is mine but not a stealthy rig like yours just a slightly modded Cosmos S not finish with the lighting and final pics needed too ;-)
> 
> pics erased for space
> 
> project log in my sig...stay tuned


looks great man, i think the fan conroller in red looks darn good.

nice build overall mate


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lost-boi;12519490*
> I dont even think I used 200' for my build. Every wire in my system has been touched. Even all the fans have had new black wires soldered on and repinned.


Thanks for the tip


----------



## Impugningcynic

Just took apart my system for spring cleaning (since I sold my video cards and am installing my new 6950 2GB tonight) and did a radiator flush.

I hate to admit it, but its been almost 18 months since my last flush, and you wouldn't believe how much green gunk was in my system -- required nearly two hours of flushing to get it completely clear. The tubing was also coated with a think layer of the gunk.

I replaced the tubing and now my flow is incomparably better. Check it out:


Will post another pic of the loop installed on the board later tonight. For reference, this is the Thermaltake P500 pump with the Aquabay reservoir, and it is connected to a 3x120mm radiator. Is this enough to get me membership in the WC Club?


----------



## Jelah

Quick question guys, I'm putting together my rig here, and am wondering.. With the EK-Multioption should the 16x12 tube be used on the outlet (using the bottom side) or the inlet (using the top)?


----------



## RushMore1205

THE LONGER one is suppose to recieve liquid, and the shorter one suppose to to bring liquid to the pump/components


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12523776*
> THE LONGER one is suppose to recieve liquid, and the shorter one suppose to to bring liquid to the pump/components


Yeah, I got the basic, so it only came with one, so inlet? Thanks for quick response


----------



## almighty15

These were taken on my Android phone so the quality isn't the best


----------



## wermad

Awesome Xigmatek fans


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *almighty15*


These were taken on my Android phone so the quality isn't the best










great job man, do u have mosfet cooled on GPUS, i didnt notice?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *almighty15*


These were taken on my Android phone so the quality isn't the best










What????? You serious????? you could have told me you used you $300 digital cam and I would believe you!!! Nice pix... Very nice.


----------



## elysion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12522824*
> looks great man, i think the fan conroller in red looks darn good.
> 
> nice build overall mate


thanks mate, trying to keep up, some more pics from last night with a quiet 4.2 GHz and 1150rpm ;-)




























cheers


----------



## Oh You Did

tubing on top will be replace with 1/2id 3/4od. ran out of fitting so i use my old tubings.


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## AdvanSuper

Why does the paint look so spotty?


----------



## almighty15

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Awesome Xigmatek fans










Thank you kindly, They're a bit washed out in terms of colour though due to my phone camera









Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


great job man, do u have mosfet cooled on GPUS, i didnt notice?


My 5850's are PowerCoolers own design and the VRMs are located at the front of the card and not in the more traditional spot at the back of the card, But yes they have heat sinks









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


What????? You serious????? you could have told me you used you $300 digital cam and I would believe you!!! Nice pix... Very nice.


They were taken on my Â£100 Budget Android phone which is an Orange San francisco ( ZTE Blade in America )


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12529598*
> Why does the paint look so spotty?


In that picture... because of the little to no light and then again from the flash.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


In that picture... because of the little to no light and then again from the flash.


I thought it was the "Hammered" looking paint. The black hammered looks nice. Already painted one side panel in my case.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


This picture makes me cry.


----------



## MorbEIn

Can I join the club? Here's my entry ^_^
Newbie in watercooling so yeh.. ^_^ Everything I know came from OCN..
So thanks OCN ^_^

I'm running with Deionised water + 2 drops of PT Nuke + Silver Kill Coil
I'm not really into lights and all that so yeh, no UV lights ^_^

I'm sorry for the crappy quality...
anyhow, here are some pics
**I apologize if it's not up to your standards, im not that creative


















normally, there are 3 180mm fans, i removed the rear and middle fans to avoid conflict with the push fans

I have 6 AP-15's in push pull config, 
Idle CPU temp 19
Load 42

Idle GPU temp 28C
Load 44C









I'm just waiting for my 2nd waterblock to arrive.. it didnt arrive this friday.. >.> so hopefully monday.. 









I have the Zalman MFC1 plus, an old fan controller, I pushed my bezels further inwards, forgot to pull them back out... sorry for the messy room









here are some random pics


----------



## Haze_hellivo

3dmark11 score with my evga gtx 570 watercooled -http://3dmark.com/3dm11/728081

3dmark Vantage score -http://3dmark.com/3dmv/2940787


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


I have the Zalman MFC1 plus, an old fan controller, I pushed my bezels further inwards, forgot to pull them back out... sorry for the messy room


And I thought I was the only one left with an MFC1


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## paulharrison123

Can I join please? Nowhere near what you guys produce, but was my first attempt knocked up in an hour or so (minus testing obviously)

And yes, I know I need a new DVD drive!




























ANd heres ones with my UV on, really hard to get a proper pic of it with that on from my camera phone


















And finally, my helper


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Aleckazee

Hi everyone, some amazing setups on here,
I'm planning out my first custom pc with WCing. So far I think I'm going to wc a i5 2400 and a single ATI 6870 but I might also cool the motherboard (just cause I'm in love with liquid cooling lol). I don't really care if the temps are great, I'm aiming more for a near silent pc.
This is what I have on my list
pump - PMP-450S
res - liquid fusion 160mm
CPU Block - CPU-340 AM3
GPU Block - VID-AR687 6870
Rad - 2x120mm Black Ice GT Stealth
Fans (for rad) - CoolerMaster 120mm 90CFM, 19dBa 2000rpm

and a NZXT Phantom case (dual rad would go inside case)

Does that sound ok? I would like to overclock the gpu at least, do I need to get a bigger rad or should that be ok? any other suggestions?
I don't want to spend more than $2000 on the whole setup, I got about $1500 for actual pc and then $500 for cooling.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138;12532866*


why do u have a Cold Cathode behind your mobo pannel?


----------



## trekman

Updeated my rig with Green tubes and EK backplates


----------



## Jelah

Small update, sorry for poor quality, phone cameras aren't the greatest


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12528957*


Needs a little cable management


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Pis




----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pis;12538138*


how come you got a 480rad and only cooling the cpu??? why not get tri sli 480s and get a 120ran and put it in where the exhaust fan is. i was going to do my rv01 but im going to do the rv03 when its released.. im just hoping i can fit a 240 inside the rv03


----------



## Jason33w

I know these are far from impressive, but it's my first watercooled system that I build in Afghanistan during my deployment there (2009). (Forgive the dust and sand pleeze)


----------



## Pis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12538237*
> how come you got a 480rad and only cooling the cpu??? why not get tri sli 480s and get a 120ran and put it in where the exhaust fan is. i was going to do my rv01 but im going to do the rv03 when its released.. im just hoping i can fit a 240 inside the rv03


Wow, sound too rich huh? XD

Look closely, not just cpu XD

I'll will buy 480 block later, first i need to save money for new chassis


----------



## mekaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pis;12538444*
> Wow, sound too rich huh? XD
> 
> Look closely, not just cpu XD
> 
> I'll will buy 480 block later, first i need to save money for new chassis


even with ram, which is as useful as having mobo block.. especially since they don't produce much heat lol 480 is over kill but hey whatever fits your fancy


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pis;12538444*
> Wow, sound too rich huh? XD
> 
> Look closely, not just cpu XD
> 
> I'll will buy 480 block later, first i need to save money for new chassis


Looks great, but I'd have saved the money you spent on the second D5 and the ram block and given that 480 a bath


----------



## Haze_hellivo

you should use a 360 rad or a 240 plus a 120, a 240 rad is not enough for your setup, koolance make great blocks but if you want to cut down the cost go with EK-FC 6870.


----------



## Pis

Well, my ambient temp is so nice about 27-30 C which is very comfortable for me...


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oh You Did;12259469*


Is that a Reactor Core V res? Do they really look that bright? or is it just the way the photo was taken?


----------



## mnemo_05

hi guys, I've been lurking this thread for quite awhile a now. .

got several question before I dive into the world of water-cooling. .

first, the flow. . which of this 2 set-up will yeild better result;

res > pump > rad(RS240) > CPU > GPU > rad(RX240) > res

res > pump > rad(RS240) > CPU > rad (RX120) > GPU > res

I'm concern about the GPU temps if I would do a CPU > GPU loop as I do OC on my GPU alot and my current air set-up is limiting me >.<

Thanks in advance!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*


hi guys, I've been lurking this thread for quite awhile a now. .

got several question before I dive into the world of water-cooling. .

first, the flow. . which of this 2 set-up will yeild better result;

res > pump > rad(RS240) > CPU > GPU > rad(RX240) > res

res > pump > rad(RS240) > CPU > rad (RX120) > GPU > res

I'm concern about the GPU temps if I would do a CPU > GPU loop as I do OC on my GPU alot and my current air set-up is limiting me >.<

Thanks in advance!



just wcedmy sig rig getting 33c idle 41c at 100% bench mark load, absolutly crazy since i was runing 80+c at load on air


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


just wcedmy sig rig getting 33c idle 41c at 100% bench mark load, absolutly crazy since i was runing 80+c at load on air


no offense, but this didn't really answer my question. . I can see that you are using 2 x 240 rads, how does you loop go?

res > pump > rad > CPU > GPU > rad > res?


----------



## RushMore1205

Look at my build log in my signature

but it goes

rad block rad block rad block


----------



## Zamoldac

After res > pump... go crazy with it, any combination will do (is best to minimize tubing length).


----------



## mnemo_05

thanks bro, checked your rig. . . one word. . sick!

its just that I'm concern on what would be the temp of the second block it I would go with rad > block > block > rad > res > pump

and yes, I am also looking for a way to minimize the tubing and I wont be using rotary for my planned build. . .


----------



## Zamoldac

You won't see more than ~1C liquid temp difference in different points of the loop, keep in mind that the liquid is always moving.


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*


You won't see more than ~1C liquid temp difference in different points of the loop, keep in mind that the liquid is always moving.


thanks man


----------



## Tex1954

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*


You won't see more than ~1C liquid temp difference in different points of the loop, keep in mind that the liquid is always moving.


Hi Bro, maybe you can help me. I have a question as running my system fully loaded, 4 CPU's 100% folding plus running HEAVEN benchmark 24 hours straight, my VGA GPU temps run 44-45c and my CPU temps show 60-65c. Case is closed and CPU/GPU's on one loop through a 5 fan triple radiator. Why such a huge difference in temps??? Loop is Pump,Radiator,CPU,GPU's (2 in SLI) , Res., pump.

Using Core Temp to read CPU and Nvidia Utilities to read GPU temps.

Thanks!

Tex1954


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tex1954*


Hi Bro, maybe you can help me. I have a question as running my system fully loaded, 4 CPU's 100% folding plus running HEAVEN benchmark 24 hours straight, my VGA GPU temps run 44-45c and my CPU temps show 60-65c. Case is closed and CPU/GPU's on one loop through a 5 fan triple radiator. Why such a huge difference in temps??? Loop is Pump,Radiator,CPU,GPU's (2 in SLI) , Res., pump.

Using Core Temp to read CPU and Nvidia Utilities to read GPU temps.

Thanks!

Tex1954


Given that loop order, I'd say you ought to re-mount your CPU block. What paste are you using/what jet plate?
Since your GPUs are so cool it's not a matter of the rad not being able to handle the load, I suspect something is going on with your CPU block. It's a Supreme HF, so it should be doing better based on the water temps.


----------



## Tex1954

I used TG-1 (mx-4) TIM to mount both the GPU and CPU blocks. The EK came stock with a 2 slit jet plate. The instructions said a 3 slit was standard but I figured they changed it so didn't touch it. I Used the same method to mount the Blocks... hmmm... and changing the pump speed (D-5 Variable) makes a big diff in water flow but no difference in temps really once it gets above 2.25 speed where it is set now. I will go ahead and reseat the CPU block again if you think that is a problem, but I am wondering if the software is somehow inaccurate. And should I go with a single or triple slit jet plate? I'm stumped because I don't see how hotter water from the CPU can cool the GPU's lower than the CPU!!! lol! (that assumes the seating is okay...)



Tex


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Needs a little cable management










man u guys are hardcore, test fitting requires cable management


----------



## Zamoldac

@Tex1954
Yup it could be a bad mount if you are referring to temperature differences between cpu cores (60-65), but if you are referring to the temperature difference between gpu's and cpu you must have in mind that your overclocked cpu has a different TDP from your gpu's also the surface of your cpu block is a lot smaller than the gpus one. Nothing to worry about anyway.


----------



## Tex1954

Ah yes, I plum fergit that! The DT from chip to water will be different! Hmmm... Okay, I will just remount the CPU to begin with and let you know. Always CPU#4 is coolest and CPU#1 is the hot one.!



Thanks!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tex1954*


I used TG-1 (mx-4) TIM to mount both the GPU and CPU blocks. The EK came stock with a 2 slit jet plate. The instructions said a 3 slit was standard but I figured they changed it so didn't touch it. I Used the same method to mount the Blocks... hmmm... and changing the pump speed (D-5 Variable) makes a big diff in water flow but no difference in temps really once it gets above 2.25 speed where it is set now. I will go ahead and reseat the CPU block again if you think that is a problem, but I am wondering if the software is somehow inaccurate. And should I go with a single or triple slit jet plate? *I'm stumped because I don't see how hotter water from the CPU can cool the GPU's lower than the CPU!!!* lol! (that assumes the seating is okay...)


That's why I suspect the mount is bad. Not to start the endless debate, but what method did you use with you TIM? Are you sure the block is tightened down well on the mobo?

Also, you want the plate with the fewest slits (but not the blank one!) according to Martin's testing. Either way, you should be seeing better temps regardless of the plate. Also I would turn that pump up, I run my D5s maxed out, they're still silent...

FWIW, my CPU runs about 3C hotter than my GPUs, and it's getting the hottest water in the loop where the GPUs get the coolest water.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*


@Tex1954
Yup it could be a bad mount if you are referring to temperature differences between cpu cores (60-65), but if you are referring to the temperature difference between gpu's and cpu you must have in mind that your overclocked cpu has a different TDP from your gpu's also the surface of your cpu block is a lot smaller than the gpus one. Nothing to worry about anyway.


Just, no.

First of all, 60-65 may not be hot by some standards (personally, it is for me, I like seeing <50-55 on everything) but it's also not consistent with his loop temps.

As far as TDP and block size, the CPU TDP is going to be less than the GPU, and the contact area for both is roughly the same. The Supreme HF is also the top performing block on the market right now for CPUs, so it should simply be performing better.

The numbers just don't line up consistently enough to write it off. If everything was consistently hotter it would point to rad overload or something else, but in this case with one component, that gets cool inlet water, having drastically higher temps, it's likely a mount issue.


----------



## Zamoldac

You have to take into consideration that while the cpu's TDP will remain roughly the same the GPU's are also reaching 2D TDP, also when i was referring to the wb size I meant the surface which comes in contact with the liquid running through the loop not the surface contact between cpu/wb or gpu/wb, a larger block to liquid surface will offer better heat transfer.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac;12543573*
> You have to take into consideration that while the cpu's TDP will remain roughly the same the GPU's are also reaching 2D TDP, also when i was referring to the wb size I meant the surface which comes in contact with the liquid running through the loop not the surface contact between cpu/wb or gpu/wb, a larger block to liquid surface will offer better heat transfer.


Did you consider that the Supreme HF works differently than the Koolance WBs that he has on the GPUs? Jet impingement over the microchannels in the Supreme give increased flowrate and turbulence through the block, plus high surface area in the block base. The Koolance blocks use the loop flowrate.

You're trying to compare apples and oranges. Yes there may be more block area, but the GPU block also carries VRM and memory heat and 2D TDP is irrelevant when we're talking about load temps....?


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12543605*
> ..You're trying to compare apples and oranges...


This is exactly why GPU = CPU temp (while sharing the same loop) is not a rule.


----------



## Tex1954

https://cid-ebfbadb4e3af1c8a.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=play&resid=EBFBADB4E3AF1C8A!125&authkey=O3Zkzq0lGpM%24

Full res screen shot. Nvidia tools temps = GPU_Z temps so figure that is okay. Reseated CPU, no real change I can see in the CORE temp differences. Still has 2 slit jet plate in it. I notice the delta between CPU/GPU seems about what it was, about 20c now... maybe it was those springs were not tight enough... this is cold after I just restarted it..



Tex

PS: Turned up the pump to max and it started splashing in the reservoir so set it back to 4.... seems to have dropped the temps 1 or 2 degrees so maybe I had it running slightly too slow. Also, I can't crank up the video cards until my ram coolers get here; forgot to order them before on this new build (my first water cooled build).


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac;12543644*
> This is exactly why GPU = CPU temp (while sharing the same loop) is not a rule.


The difference in temps should be small if the blocks are able to efficiently handle the heat load. Given that he has good blocks, they should be able to be similar. There's simply no way around the fact that the CPU should be cooler given the loop order and other temps. If even if the water in the loop is as 45C (assuming the GPUs are cooling 100% effectively), then that means that the HF is giving a 15-20C delta between water temp and core temp, which is too high.
If things were as you say they are, then the higher CPU temps should be due to high heat-dump into the loop, which would then require higher GPU temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tex1954;12543677*
> https://cid-ebfbadb4e3af1c8a.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=play&resid=EBFBADB4E3AF1C8A!125&authkey=O3Zkzq0lGpM%24
> 
> Full res screen shot. Nvidia tools temps = GPU_Z temps so figure that is okay. Reseated CPU, no real change I can see in the CORE temp differences. Still has 2 slit jet plate in it. I notice the delta between CPU/GPU seems about what it was, about 20c now... maybe it was those springs were not tight enough... this is cold after I just restarted it..
> 
> 
> 
> Tex


That delta should be smaller, especially with MX-4, do you have the block nice and tight? And you said turning up the pump doesn't do anything?


----------



## munaim1

apologies regarding quality, had to use my trusted iphone 3g untill I get my digi cam replaced. Anyways heres my build (rig assembly in sig "project: water under the bridge"):

first up triple rad mount:



















whole rig:








































































































































Gtx 460:





































Again apologies for poor pics but hope you like


----------



## Tex1954

WOW! Pretty system! I like the little fans on your board, I may try that too!

Yes, I turned the pump up, made 1 or 2 degree reduction in CPU temp. I will let it run 24 hrs loaded and see where it ends up with the covers on. Next, I will try changing the Jet plate to single slit and maybe that will help.

Thanks for all your help!!



Tex


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Looks great! I like that VRM fan mod for the GPU.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12544003*
> Looks great! I like that VRM fan mod for the GPU.


thanks works very well, right now idle at 24c and load never goes above 40c









Edit: 400 posts


----------



## grazz1984

Can anyone here tell me how to test my 240mm rad for leaks please?


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12544587*
> Can anyone here tell me how to test my 240mm rad for leaks please?


Hook it up, run water through it, and see if any water leaks out?


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grazz1984*


Can anyone here tell me how to test my 240mm rad for leaks please?


run water and look for water dripping out?


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


why do u have a Cold Cathode behind your mobo pannel?


It would shine on the motherboard indirectly. I think it looks tacky when you can see the cathodes.


----------



## cigarbug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12544587*
> Can anyone here tell me how to test my 240mm rad for leaks please?


If you took it to an automotive radiator repair shop, they cap one end and hook up an air pressure line and submerse it in water and look for the source of bubbles.


----------



## x Yoko

^ That's a bit extreme. Liquid loops don't run under any considerable pressure.


----------



## cigarbug

Quote:



Originally Posted by *x Yoko*


^ That's a bit extreme. Liquid loops don't run under any considerable pressure.


Not at all extreme, and I never said super high extreme rocket science air pressure. How do you think they fix radiators including PC cooling rads?

They find the leaks with air bubbles, glass bead the area, solder them, and repaint them. Next time I put a fan screw through one I'll videotape it.


----------



## Jelah

Finally got a chance to borrow a A850 from work for some better pics, but this is my first time using a DSLR, so their pretty bad, but at least better than iphone quality.


----------



## koven

finally took some decent pics.. too bad i gotta take it apart for 570 rma


----------



## SilentAssassin82

Heres my rig as a first time user of water cooling!


----------



## RushMore1205

^^^^^ Looks great man

ok guys this is the last pic im going to post here, i have finaly finished the loop, here is a pic of it, everything OCed runing stable, really happy with an outcome:


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


^^^^^ Looks great man

ok guys this is the last pic im going to post here, i have finaly finished the loop, here is a pic of it, everything OCed runing stable, really happy with an outcome:


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


man u guys are hardcore, test fitting requires cable management










Clean that fan cable up and it would be sweet as







.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


finally took some decent pics.. too bad i gotta take it apart for 570 rma


















ssooo want your white res!!!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


^^^^^ Looks great man

ok guys this is the last pic im going to post here, i have finaly finished the loop, here is a pic of it, everything OCed runing stable, really happy with an outcome:


Ok Rush... so... and this is not a criticism... but am I understanding correctly by saying that because of the rad *(edit: ) res* you cannot use a side panel? If so, ever think of maybe a hinged acrylic/lexan panel that can stick out a bit and cover things up?

But you have a nice setup...


----------



## Mr OCN




----------



## [CyGnus]

Little update one more RAD!


----------



## Snips

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*


Little update one more RAD!



























How are those external rads mounted lol?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Snips*


How are those external rads mounted lol?


May be wrong... but... with two brackets each??? Gravitry + weight could be bending those back!!! Should look cool from the front though.


----------



## almighty15

There's some right cluttered/messy installs in here


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilentAssassin82*


Heres my rig as a first time user of water cooling! 
*snips*


Nicely done...but lol...that's some serious flow in your reservoir...some mega cyclone action in there.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12553448*
> Ok Rush... so... and this is not a criticism... but am I understanding correctly by saying that because of the rad *(edit: ) res* you cannot use a side panel? If so, ever think of maybe a hinged acrylic/lexan panel that can stick out a bit and cover things up?
> 
> But you have a nice setup...


Why would I want to have a sidepanel? Ever since I owned the case 3 years ago it has never had a sidepanel, but if I were to make one I woukd mela a cut out for the res on the plexi and that would be it


----------



## [CyGnus]

They are holding with 2 EK holders one for each rad and they are not bending









EK Holders: http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek-uni-rad-holder-120.html


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus];12554254*
> They are holding with 2 EK holders one for each rad and they are not bending they are very good.
> 
> EK Holders: http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek-uni-rad-holder-120.html


I see. It's one bracket but still has two connection points on the RAD. The way that bracket is made does seem to be sturdy. I have my RAD externally mounted with 4 of these (that's why I was wondering):

















I wouldn't use just 2 of my brackets imo.


----------



## Oh You Did

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee;12540015*
> Is that a Reactor Core V res? Do they really look that bright? or is it just the way the photo was taken?


no, it was just my iphone not focusing on it. but here is a better pic.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pis;12538138*


is that two different pumps /facepalm


----------



## grazz1984

Hi just a quick question, may be a stuid question but would still like to konw lol, im mounting my 240mm rad on the room of my case so which way do my fans need to be blowing the air?

Thanks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12556147*
> Hi just a quick question, may be a stuid question but would still like to konw lol, im mounting my 240mm rad on the room of my case so which way do my fans need to be blowing the air?
> 
> Thanks


it doesn't really matter, you could try both and see what gives better temps for you.


----------



## grazz1984

Exellent and what is the best "thickest hose" i can use and what size barbs will i need for it, so sorry for all the questions but i wana get this right its my first loop, but i want some nice thick hose i hate the look of that skinny looking hose lol


----------



## nickbaldwin86

For tubing I always recommend 7/16" ID / 5/8" OD which works great with 1/2" barbs


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12556547*
> For tubing I always recommend 7/16" ID / 5/8" OD which works great with 1/2" barbs


so could i not use 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing with 1/2" barbs? or is that tubing the thin stuff?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Sure... I used to run 1/2" on 1/2" barbs but after I ran 7/16" I never went back. Just make sure you run good clamps if you are going with 1/2" on 1/2"

Thin? what is the matter if it is thin or thick?

1/2" ID 3/4" OD = 1/4" thick wall tubing, seems pretty thick to me.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12556724*
> Sure... I used to run 1/2" on 1/2" barbs but after I ran 7/16" I never went back. Just make sure you run good clamps if you are going with 1/2" on 1/2"
> 
> Thin? what is the matter if it is thin or thick?
> 
> 1/2" ID 3/4" OD = 1/4" thick wall tubing, seems pretty thick to me.


Ok thanks for your help, whats the best fittings, barbs or compresion fittings?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12557085*
> Ok thanks for your help, whats the best fittings, barbs or compresion fittings?


I'd say 1/2 barbs with 7/16ID tubing stretched over them, they're less bulky than compressions and just as leak-proof. Either option is good. Compressions are more expensive though.


----------



## The_Punisher

Everyone here recommends 7/16ID with 1/2" barbs, but honestly I'm running 1/2"ID on 1/2" barbs and the fit seems very snug to me. I went to the hardware store and looked at their 7/16"ID, it seemed like a huge PITA to get over the barbs. Even with my setup (bitspower barbs), I can hardly pull the tubing off if I want to without cutting it. And you won't be running high enough pressure through your lines to care.


----------



## grazz1984

Yea i think im going to get 1/2 barbs and the 7/16id tubing and just get some of those black plastic clamps, just watched a video on youtube on those plastic clamps and they look pretty strong and they look tidy too but if them clamps are a bad idea let me kno ill upload a pick of the clamps im on about in a min


----------



## grazz1984

these are the clamps and there 1/2 inch, would they be ok for the size tubing im going for?


----------



## wermad

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_953_955

uber clamps


----------



## grazz1984

Ive just orders some PrimoChill UV Red PVC Hose Clip 5/8 OD and 3 meters of 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD White PVC Water Cooling Hose (XSPC) should look pretty nice, will get some pics up when build complete though


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12557479*
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_953_955
> 
> uber clamps


those are SEXY!!!!

I personally don't like compression fittings, both in looks or the cost you have to pay out for them, I also don't see a advantage to running them.

I run something like this, http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_953_954&products_id=25625

I buy them at my local hardware store and they are $0.24 a piece, and of they don't have the brand on them which is nice.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12557847*
> those are SEXY!!!!
> 
> I personally don't like compression fittings, both in looks or the cost you have to pay out for them, I also don't see a advantage to running them.
> 
> I run something like this, http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_953_954&products_id=25625
> 
> I buy them at my local hardware store and they are $0.24 a piece, and of they don't have the brand on them which is nice.


Hmm they look pretty good but wot sizes would i need for 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD hose?

would 18.25-23.25mm ID be tight?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

You would want the 16mm or 5/8"

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_953_954&products_id=24887

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_953_954&products_id=22461

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_953_954&products_id=25627


----------



## grazz1984

5/8 od tubing and 1/2 bards would 5/8 od clamps be tight enough :/


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12558238*
> 5/8 od tubing and 1/2 bards would 5/8 od clamps be tight enough :/


that is just what they are for, you will have to compress the clamp in order to get it over the tubing


----------



## grazz1984

Oh ill just stick to the primochill pvc hose clamps they look good enough for me







i just wana get my loop done now lol


----------



## wermad

have ready a small needle nose pliers. It comes in handy to undo the clamps and occasional closing of the clamp.

I've tried the Koolance one's but they now have an open end as opposed to the close end ones which are far easier to compress.

I'm quite happy with compression though


----------



## Open1Your1Eyes0

Hey *kevin*, please add me to the list. Plenty more pics in the thread.

Also note my Dual Input/Dual Output GPU loop setup.









*Link to Build Thread*


----------



## Mongol

uber compression fittings:

.999 silver plated


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Open1Your1Eyes0;12558445*
> 
> Also note my Dual Input/Dual Output GPU loop setup.


OH ya and how is that working out for you?

Seems like a crazy enough setup.

Looks great too, nice build.


----------



## Open1Your1Eyes0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12558483*
> OH ya and how is that working out for you?
> 
> Seems like a crazy enough setup.
> 
> Looks great too, nice build.


It's excellent. I am really glad I came up with the idea because this way my GPU temps are identical and not like most usually set it up where one card passes water onto the other after it has already heated up. It's basically like two dedicated mini-loops in one big loop. And that's just the GPUs. I was gonna do the same with the CPU motherboard but aesthically it wouldn't be as pleasing and the added cost/complexity made it not worth the few degrees lower on the motherboard. My GPUs are loving it however.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Open1Your1Eyes0;12558595*
> It's excellent. I am really glad I came up with the idea because this way my GPU temps are identical and not like most usually set it up where one card passes water onto the other after it has already heated up. It's basically like two dedicated mini-loops in one big loop. And that's just the GPUs. I was gonna do the same with the CPU motherboard but aesthically it wouldn't be as pleasing and the added cost/complexity made it not worth the few degrees lower on the motherboard. My GPUs are loving it however.


Ya it is a great idea and again great work. Looks like a lot of tubing but at the same time it very interesting to look at and very eye catching


----------



## RushMore1205

or you just get a parelle bridge


----------



## Open1Your1Eyes0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


or you just get a parelle bridge


Someone actually did advise me on this within the thread and I did look into it prior to making a decision. But the reason I chose against was I could not easily find a compatible bridge for the waterblocks I had purchased. Also even in a parallel bridge, the water channels between the two cards are still interconnected and some heat can still transfer over between the link. I also wanted to try something a little more creative and unusual and I thought that the tubing arrangement would also give it a certain aesthetic that would help it stand out.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Open1Your1Eyes0*


Hey *kevin*, please add me to the list. Plenty more pics in the thread.

Also note my Dual Input/Dual Output GPU loop setup.









*Link to Build Thread*











Is there a reason you rez,fan controller and i think dvd rom are sticking out, i have also seen a few other members with there stuff like that


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Is there a reason you rez,fan controller and i think dvd rom are sticking out, i have also seen a few other members with there stuff like that


the front panel is not on his 800D, that is all, they have to stick out to become flush with the front panel when it is installed


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Is there a reason you rez,fan controller and i think dvd rom are sticking out, i have also seen a few other members with there stuff like that


The front panel is off, I think. When it's on it fits.


----------



## Huggy_bear

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Is there a reason you rez,fan controller and i think dvd rom are sticking out, i have also seen a few other members with there stuff like that


He's not got the front cover on the case in that pic.
The plastic (metal?) front cover sticks out a few inches, so the 5.25" bays are designed so the devices sit flush with that.


----------



## Qu1ckset

oh ok lol, didnt notice that


----------



## Open1Your1Eyes0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Is there a reason you rez,fan controller and i think dvd rom are sticking out, i have also seen a few other members with there stuff like that


Actually I just have the front panel off. Ninjaed.







What you see on the top is the USB/Audio panel built into the case, below that is the fan controller and below that are the two reservoirs.

Here is a pic of the front with the panel on:


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


finally took some decent pics.. too bad i gotta take it apart for 570 rma



















You loop look eerily familiar.







(for now) Adding a 240 tomorrow once all my fittings come in.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Open1Your1Eyes0;12560082*
> Someone actually did advise me on this within the thread and I did look into it prior to making a decision. But the reason I chose against was I could not easily find a compatible bridge for the waterblocks I had purchased. Also even in a parallel bridge, the water channels between the two cards are still interconnected and some heat can still transfer over between the link. I also wanted to try something a little more creative and unusual and I thought that the tubing arrangement would also give it a certain aesthetic that would help it stand out.


i have the bridge and my first card(where the liquid enters) is rarely only 1c higher then the other


----------



## Qu1ckset

crysis 2 Demo!!!! http://static.cdn.ea.com/crytek/u/f/crysis2/Crysis_2_Multiplayer_Demo.exe


----------



## whipple16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


crysis 2 Demo!!!! http://static.cdn.ea.com/crytek/u/f/...layer_Demo.exe


wrong section but thanks


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


crysis 2 Demo!!!! http://static.cdn.ea.com/crytek/u/f/...layer_Demo.exe


OMG just in time, got done with my rig yesterday


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


OMG just in time, got done with my rig yesterday


Games pretty sick but im worried about my temps


----------



## koven

hmm who's rig is this? thought ive seen it in this thread before

2600 lol, nice profit there

http://cgi.ebay.com/EXTREME-CORE-I7-...ht_3242wt_1796


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Games pretty sick but im worried about my temps










does this demo actually have the dx11 feature enabled????

how is your 580s handling it?


----------



## Open1Your1Eyes0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


does this demo actually have the dx11 feature enabled????


DX9 only, has minor glitches, constant 60FPS for me with VSYNC enabled, 1920x1200 Hardcore.


----------



## Arksniper

Here is a pic of my first personal wc build.



















Starting to dream up a worklog build soon for my 2011/2012 build *dont know what I will call it* but i think this is a good start.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


does this demo actually have the dx11 feature enabled????

how is your 580s handling it?


my 580s raped it, but i had to take one of my cards out because it was getting to hot... this case sucks so bad at aircooling, but with one gtx580 it still raped.


----------



## ASO7

*Lian-Li PC70*














































*Silverstone TJ07*


----------



## Colonel Sanders

Kinda random but the other day I was looking at the EK Supreme HF Rev 2 and I was like that's a nice looking block. So I was contemplating on ordering it since I always hear people speak so highly of them. So I said what the hell let's give it a shot. (Kinda an impulse buy..)

I was running a Swiftech Apogee XT for a few months. I always felt there wasn't something right with this block since I had slightly higher temps then most people in my range. At my current overclock I was sitting at 75-76 max temps.

Received my EK today so after some time and sore fingers from compression fittings, I got that baby in. Soooo beautiful, full nickel. All I can say about this block is WOW! I'm now sitting at a max load temp of about 66-67. Drop just about 10 degrees. All I can say is I <3 EK!

Sorry just got really excited about this block. Wanted to share it with someone lol!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ASO7*


Lian-Li PC70


Nice system and pics









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Colonel Sanders*


Kinda random but the other day I was looking at the EK Supreme HF Rev 2 and I was like that's a nice looking block. So I was contemplating on ordering it since I always hear people speak so highly of them. So I said what the hell let's give it a shot. (Kinda an impulse buy..)

I was running a Swiftech Apogee XT for a few months. I always felt there wasn't something right with this block since I had slightly higher temps then most people in my range. At my current overclock I was sitting at 75-76 max temps.

Received my EK today so after some time and sore fingers from compression fittings, I got that baby in. Soooo beautiful, full nickel. All I can say about this block is WOW! I'm now sitting at a max load temp of about 66-67. Drop just about 10 degrees. All I can say is I <3 EK!

Sorry just got really excited about this block. Wanted to share it with someone lol!


I get excited too and need to share


----------



## Colonel Sanders

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*


I get excited too and need to share










Yeah well what your talking about I'd rather share with the females than with my waterblock. Just sayin.


----------



## Tex1954

Folks, just found this link:

http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=909&page=5

My particular CPU is only overclocked to 4.179GHz so is probably running a bit cooler, but it does seem the figures I get are completely normal. Loading the CPU with Folding and Prime95 and graphics with Heaven BM, seems what I am seeing is what EK sees. as soon as I unload the CPU, it drops right on down to 30c +- 2. So I am thinking now that my system is performing properly.



Tex


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12561207*
> crysis 2 Demo!!!! http://static.cdn.ea.com/crytek/u/f/crysis2/Crysis_2_Multiplayer_Demo.exe


you little ripper rita:wheee: just went in and ordered the limited edition one, paid in full ready for march 22......did i mention i like crysis?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Oh You Did

WOW! those bitspower fittings are expensive and it look like you have over 50. how much did you spent on that or did you get a deal.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oh You Did;12568267*
> WOW! those bitspower fittings are expensive and it look like you have over 50. how much did you spent on that or did you get a deal.


sponsor









I want that many barbs...

I also want that case, looks super fabulous (MOAR PIXZ)


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



http://www.abload.de/img/img_0065zrl9.jpg


holy crap... theirs atleast like $400 of fittings their.. wana send me some? i can't find the will to pay $8 for 1 fitting when i can buy almost 6 barbs for that


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Seems pointless watercooling a gtx 460 when you can buy a gtx 570 for that value.


----------



## fshizl

Little by little...


----------



## KillerBeaz

any reason for the zip ties on the tubing?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KillerBeaz*


any reason for the zip ties on the tubing?


Looks like to keep the hose from kinking in the area.


----------



## xxlawman87xx

WC loop reconfig!

OLD:









New:


----------



## ecaftermath

i want to change my ek spin dual res to the xspc dual res with my d5 pump..cause i'm having room problems with that huge pump in the way..

right now the pump is on ek xtop..

will there be lower flow rate?

thanks


----------



## Mongol

%#@$&!!!

About to yank that parallel bridge out...all because of a sound card:










Ahh well...wouldn't fit in x8/x4 due to my bottom cards' bracket.

No room...PCI slot behind that middle card:










PCIEx1 behind that tubing...lol:


----------



## fshizl

I put the zip ties to give the tubing shape. Going to be buying some black tubing tonight for the back side of the case.


----------



## Qu1ckset

ugh so im thinking about scraping the new case idea, and just buying the last few things i need to w/c my rv01, because crysis 2 is raping my system as far as heat goes... i can honestly say the rv01 is one of the worst cases as far as aircooling goes lol


----------



## screwterminalblock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *el gappo*


that thing gets crazier every time i see it +1


jesus. this is insane. what do you need all this power for?!?!


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12573613*
> Little by little...


Looks great man! Now I see why you didn't need that bock. I will be watching for the finished product.


----------



## RushMore1205

This is for all you OCN enthusiast that helped me get to where I am now


----------



## Arksniper

@ Guru- Took me a min to figure out the tubing but wow that is a very clean tubing setup. Like many other I can't wait to see the final product.

@ Rush- Love the sexy red you really went all out on that one.


----------



## EqOpHater

First off, WOW! The rigs you all have posted so far are awesome.

I built a computer about a year ago and told myself I would water cool my next rig so here I am. I have been going through the 100's of pages looking for inspiration and basically an understanding of how it all works...

So, let me post the parts I will be working with:

Mobo: ASUS Crosshair IV Extereme AMD 890FX AM3
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition
GPU: XFX Radeon HD 4890
RAM: OCZ Fatal1ty 8192MB PC10666 DDR3 1333MHz
SSD: Crucial RealSSD 64GB 2.5" SATA SSD (OS)
HDD: WD VelociRaptor 300GB Hard Drive 10k (Games)
PSU: ULTRA X4 1050W POWER SUPPLY MODULAR
Sound: Creative Labs SB X-FI Titanium Fatal1ty Champ
Case: CM HAF 932 AMD Edition
Monitor: Viewsonic VX2265wm 22in Wide 120hz LCD 1680x1050

*I will be buying 2 video cards for crossfire once the 7000 Series cards come out. I am also going to upgrade my RAM.

With that said, I would like to push my CPU over 4Ghz. I was overclocking it to 3.8Ghz with air cooling, but was unable to go any further due to temps. I also intend to overclock my GPUs. Based off of my resolution, 2 x 5870s should be more than enough to keep me high on frame rates (Opinions?).

Any suggestions on parts or my overall set up?









I would like to go big or go home and water cool my CPU and GPUs.

Thanks ahead of time for any suggestions.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Thought I'd finally post my update in here (I def need to get a real camera so I can stop being ghetto and using my phone's)
*
Angled*

*Left Side*

*Right Side* - another foam piece connected to the side panel matches up with the bottom one as sound insulation


----------



## RushMore1205

Italian you are a true artist, that is work of art


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12577312*
> Italian you are a true artist, that is work of art


Thanks man, it'll always be a work in progress. If you're powdercoating cases you may see mine in the near future. I think it would look pretty sweet powdercoated in a dark blue running white led fans. I need to do some sleeving. Just gotta save up for some MDPC or murdermod sleeving.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12575188*
> %#@$&!!!
> 
> About to yank that parallel bridge out...all because of a sound card:
> 
> Ahh well...wouldn't fit in x8/x4 due to my bottom cards' bracket.
> 
> No room...PCI slot behind that middle card:


Nooooooooooooooooooooooo

Well, its understandable







I'm no audio fanatic so I can live with the onboard


----------



## RushMore1205

^^^ thats what i thought too wermad but when i got a soundcard i have to say its night and day difference if you have a decent speaker set up.

quick question guys, my coolant temp at the end of the loop when it exits the GPU bridge is usually 27-29C when my room temps are 24c does that sound ok???? should the coolant be lower then ambient temp in the room
or no that sounds stupid since how would it get colder then the air cooling it, but it should be at least close to room temp right, not 4c higher


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12577553*
> quick question guys, my coolant temp at the end of the loop when it exits the GPU bridge is usually 27-29C when my room temps are 24c does that sound ok???? should the coolant be lower then ambient temp in the room
> or no that sounds stupid since how would it get colder then the air cooling it, but it should be at least close to room temp right, not 4c higher


sounds about right. That's actually a rather low water/air delta for just exiting the gpus. Can't go below ambient without a chiller


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12577244*
> Thought I'd finally post my update in here


Look really good nice job as usual.
see you on the folding scoreboard.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;12577865*
> Look really good nice job as usual.
> see you on the folding scoreboard.


FINALLY passed you! Must have stopped for a while







since you have ungodly folding power. Folding got me into lawschool so I'm definitely going to keep at it for a long long time.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12577244*
> Thought I'd finally post my update in here (I def need to get a real camera so I can stop being ghetto and using my phone's)
> *
> Angled*
> 
> *Left Side*


You got any Michelangelo in ya







?

Stunning master piece, me wants








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12577553*
> ^^^ thats what i thought too wermad but when i got a soundcard i have to say its night and day difference if you have a decent speaker set up.


I have logis x540, I rarely use them to their full potential as they are loud suckers and I have a little one that the wifey gets p.o. if I crank up the volume







. I use my inexpensive philips stereo heads most of the time. So I really don't need anything fancy. Onboard audio has come a long way since I last I had to buy a discrete sound card (~mid 1990s







).


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12577924*
> You got any Michelangelo in ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Stunning master piece, me wants


lulz. I seriously need a camera so I can take decent pics. I feel straight ghetto using my iphone, but alas I'm on an ocn budget where free money goes towards unnecessary computer parts making me too poor to afford a digital camera









I don't know how you gave up ur ascension for an 800d. It boggles my mind. That mont noir setup was ridiculous (especially the res), but you just had to tone it down a notch. That's the exact opposite of OCN's motto!

btw, how is that EK ramblock treating you?


----------



## tzillian

hey guys, im almost done with my ascension. should i re-tim the cpu. ive taken my system apart quite a few times already. i have not lifted the cpu block at all though.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;12578109*
> hey guys, im almost done with my ascension. should i re-tim the cpu. ive taken my system apart quite a few times already. i have not lifted the cpu block at all though.


no need to retim unless you've moved the block at all or if it's a bad seat


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12577961*
> lulz. I seriously need a camera so I can take decent pics. I feel straight ghetto using my iphone, but alas I'm on an ocn budget where free money goes towards unnecessary computer parts making me too poor to afford a digital camera
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how you gave up ur ascension for an 800d. It boggles my mind. That mont noir setup was ridiculous (especially the res), but you just had to tone it down a notch. That's the exact opposite of OCN's motto!
> 
> btw, how is that EK ramblock treating you?


The MM was just not polished enough for me. Plus I was low on funds and wanted to start an intel build and leave amd and the "sli-hack". Selling the MM was not heart breaking, it was like trading in an Escalade for a CTS-V









I have the Case Labs Magnum M8 at the top of my case upgrade list.

No ram block set up yet, it was a mess to get the doms, I finally ordered them from tiger and shipping is taking forever. I have it plumbed and ready to go. ram should arrive tomorrow. I had a big piece of 0.5mm pad leftover and I'll be using that rather than tim which is what the EK instructions call for. Right now, I'm thinking of hacking my psu


----------



## fshizl




----------



## ttoadd.nz

Looks real good fshizl, I got the same cpu and ram block going in this weekend.









What ID OD is that tubing u using? I notice some minor kinking there, I'm using feser tubing its a real **** to bend, so I got some black tygon 3400 to replace it.

Keep the pics coming!


----------



## Jelah

Not an update, just a few more pics I took I wanted to share













































Probably should have adjusted the shutter speed so the res doesn't look cloudy, but I'm a noob when it comes to cameras, think it kinda looks cool though


----------



## fshizl

tubing is primochill 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jelah;12579425*
> Not an update, just a few more pics I took I wanted to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably should have adjusted the shutter speed so the res doesn't look cloudy, but I'm a noob when it comes to cameras, think it kinda looks cool though


Nice rig... I REALLY like it. Gratz on a job well done.

I also stink at picture taking. I came across this guide. Really good stuff if you want to learn how to take better pix. Give it a try and let us see what you learn!


----------



## grazz1984

Hi just orderd all my parts for watercooling, ive just to wait for it to arrive







Can someone here do me a little diagram or tell me what the best way to hook all the tubing up,, i have a cm 690 ii case a 240mm rad at top and one on bottom then my cpu waterblock res and pump...

Thanks


----------



## runeazn

do i see foam ?


----------



## Villosa

Built a new rig in sig. Haven't done any cable sleeving yet (too busy now), but did some 1/2" sleeving on my tubing. Better pics to come after I get more done.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12585891*
> do i see foam ?


I think that is light playing off of some of the evaporation on the side of the res.


----------



## Qu1ckset

is this going to be the black top water block?? it doesnt have the picture of the top, becase performance is out of 580 ek blocks
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=57245&vpn=EK-FC580%20GTX&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks

How long do you think till performance pc's gets more stock?


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## wermad

Ram block installed



























I have no effort in taking pics (and cleaning my desk! -> pending







)








I'm reading the ocn tutorial to acquire some sort of capacity to take a decent looking pic


----------



## PROBEDEMON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;12288183*
> And, in a never-ending attempt to better my rig. I present these, showing only a few minor changes. Some more sleeved stuff, routed things differently, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking awesome!!!
> What lighting are you using ? if i may ask


----------



## PROBEDEMON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dryg;12260540*
> A little update.
> Finally got some Scythe fans, but the CPU power cable is blocking the way and I had to use a slim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have any screws that could hold it so I used tape ;D
> 
> Going to remove the honeycomb on the top for improved airflow from the middle fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also adding some green cathodes on the side of them and inside.
> 
> Current to do list:
> Green tubing
> 45 degree fittings
> XSPC D5 Bayres
> Green cathodes
> 
> I have ordered everything but its out of stock.
> 
> Also need a real camera and not a crappy iPhail


Give Me your adress ill send you some 4MM black screws


----------



## bl1nk

Lovin the new ram block wermad, the white leds look great.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;12589163*
> Lovin the new ram block wermad, the white leds look great.


tnx, also freshened up the wire management.


----------



## mekaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12589059*
> Ram block installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no effort in taking pics (and cleaning my desk! -> pending
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm reading the ocn tutorial to acquire some sort of capacity to take a decent looking pic


I love your drain port!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mekaw;12589228*
> I love your drain port!


tnx, its a bit crooked in the pics as I just threw everything together quickly before heading work.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12589272*
> tnx, its a bit crooked in the pics as I just threw everything together quickly before heading work.


just a word of advice, in order for the drain port to work properly and push out all the liquid it has to be in the lowest point of the loop, it looks really good, im not complaining but it will not drain all the liquid for you

i want that ram block now lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12589345*
> just a word of advice, in order for the drain port to work properly and push out all the liquid it has to be in the lowest point of the loop, it looks really good, im not complaining but it will not drain all the liquid for you


yup, knew that, its already too crowded down there so this was a nice setup that works well for me. as long as the blocks drain, that's good enough for me, the bottom rad I can drain when i pull everything out. But I don't plan to do a complete break down until later mid year


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12589059*
> Ram block installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no effort in taking pics (and cleaning my desk! -> pending
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm reading the ocn tutorial to acquire some sort of capacity to take a decent looking pic


RAM BLOCK what a waste of money, but what a way to waste it


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;12288183*
> 
> Looking awesome!!!
> What lighting are you using ? if i may ask


Looks like white LED's/cathodes to me, but I can't be sure.


----------



## amgsport

Here's a pic of my updated loop. Added the RX360, EK 5870 GPU & Dominator RAM blocks, and 8 AP-15s to go with the new 800D. Had the Hdwr Labs 120 rad from previous loop, so thought I'd fit it in before the GPU - sure it does little benefit (just like the RAM block - lol) but why not.

I'm running 965BE @ 4.10 24/7. CPU temps 28C idle / 43C full burn & GPU temps 26C idle / 39C full burn... so I guess the loop is doing the job.

Sorry for the lame pic, but my photo skills are terrible.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amgsport;12590189*
> Here's a pic of my updated loop. Added the RX360, EK 5870 GPU & Dominator RAM blocks, and 8 AP-15s to go with the new 800D. Had the Hdwr Labs 120 rad from previous loop, so thought I'd fit it in before the GPU - sure it does little benefit (just like the RAM block - lol) but why not.
> 
> I'm running 965BE @ 4.10 24/7. CPU temps 28C idle / 43C full burn & GPU temps 26C idle / 39C full burn... so I guess the loop is doing the job.
> 
> Sorry for the lame pic, but my photo skills are terrible.


Looking good









These EK ram blocks are catching on, and the lower price compared to the mips makes them more desirable imo


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Looking good









These EK ram blocks are catching on, and the lower price compared to the mips makes them more desirable imo










but I <3 my mips







at least I had mine before the fad









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


RAM BLOCK what a waste of money, but what a way to waste it










not a waste if it looks cool


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

It's ok FIS, some of us didn't even catch on to the 'Triple Channel' fad, 2x2gb XMS3 ftw!









@wermad, block looks great! I'm debating a blue top for my supreme and some LEDs. Also think I'm going shelf the M8, save my money, and I'm thinking about replacing my EK dual 5 top and T-line with one of the new Koolance dual D5 res's...


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

That koolance d5 bay res does completely dominate every other bay res out there.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


That koolance d5 bay res does completely dominate every other bay res out there.


Yep, pretty much.... I tried to sweet-talk Martin into giving me his test sample, but he said it was already destined for his personal rig







I guess that's a pretty clear statement on its awesomess haha.


----------



## wermad

(sans dye







)


----------



## Jelah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *runeazn*


do i see foam ?


Yeah, its bubbles, I took the little tube out of the inside last night because I didn't like that it was causing bubbles throughout the res, but now the warm water just goes right back into the pump, I think I just needed to add more water -.-


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*













(sans dye







)


LED's NOT INCLUDED WTH?!


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


LED's NOT INCLUDED WTH?!


I know huh!?!? Especially when you're paying $120+ for one


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I thought the same thing. $120 and you have to buy all the extras... over priced much?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Should be ready to do leak testing tonight, just have to install the res and the final two lines.


----------



## 1d10t

can i join he club?









here's my picture...


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12592867*
> I know huh!?!? Especially when you're paying $120+ for one


Exactly!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

haven't seen a rig with plastic fittings in a while. You are one brave soul


----------



## Qu1ckset

So today i was doing my daily routine afterwork which is browse whats on the market on kijiji and craigslist, and i happen to find Mountain Mods Extended Ascension case for $350, it looks unused, i just emailed him to find out if it has been or not. so is that a good deal?
ok and i have some questions for the case, sry if i sound dumb but why is the case so big? does it support two computers or something, because at the back i see two slots for power supply's and it looks big enough to house to motherboards, if you guys can inform me on this case, because im sure you are all grealy informed on it


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


So today i was doing my daily routine afterwork which is browse whats on the market on kijiji and craigslist, and i happen to find Mountain Mods Extended Ascension case for $350, it looks unused, i just emailed him to find out if it has been or not. so is that a good deal?
ok and i have some questions for the case, sry if i sound dumb but why is the case so big? does it support two computers or something, because at the back i see two slots for power supply's and it looks big enough to house to motherboards, if you guys can inform me on this case, because im sure you are all grealy informed on it


If it's a duality then you can fit two computers inside it. It's honestly not that big once you consider how many radiators and extra wc goodies you can fit in it. It's quite easy, but expensive to fill up. Simply the best WC case out there for super high end builds that want extremely low water/air deltas


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*













(sans dye







)


MIne is in the mail and on its way!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxlawman87xx;12600894*
> MIne is in the mail and on its way!


kewl









take lots of pics


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


kewl









take lots of pics










OH I WILL! No worries. I will have some stuff for sale afterward. BTW, as most of you know, when running the pumps in series you have to connect the outlet of P1 to the inlet of P2 with barbs and tubing. I emailed Koolance and they said they will have a custom fitting to do this without tubing in a couple weeks....Guess who gets one of the first ones?????


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxlawman87xx*


OH I WILL! No worries. I will have some stuff for sale afterward. BTW, as most of you know, when running the pumps in series you have to connect the outlet of P1 to the inlet of P2 with barbs and tubing. I emailed Koolance and they said they will have a custom fitting to do this without tubing in a couple weeks....Guess who gets one of the first ones?????










Thinking about just spacing the pumps out in my loop as I do now. If anyone wants to fund my new res, there's a link in my sig, I have most of a cheap loop for sale, rad/cpu block/pm for tubing and fittings







Can't wait to see pics lawman.


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Thinking about just spacing the pumps out in my loop as I do now. If anyone wants to fund my new res, there's a link in my sig, I have most of a cheap loop for sale, rad/cpu block/pm for tubing and fittings







Can't wait to see pics lawman.


I am replacing this Res. Pics of my current loop are page 863.


----------



## RushMore1205

here is some SEXY RED pictures


----------



## CH4PZ

well thought i'd show ya's K4OT1K pretty well done(at least till next mod)

























































sorry im not the best photographer, i'll get round to reading the wicked guide by joe photo one day


----------



## koven

^ wish it was all compression, not just here and there.. but looks great overall, i like your style


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12605430*
> ^ wish it was all compression, not just here and there.. but looks great overall, i like your style


yeah i know, is so hard to find a large range of connections in australia and didnt really want to pay 50-60 dollars in shipping and wait 2 weeks for them to arrive, so will swap for the threaded 90's once i really need something from us:thumb: thanks though


----------



## 1d10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12600336*
> haven't seen a rig with plastic fittings in a while. You are one brave soul


what could possibly gone wrong?


----------



## crunchie

The plastic is affected by the coolant and deteriorates over time. I had some in my radiator and when I went to swap them out, it took about 5 minutes on each one because they had both swollen up on the thread.


----------



## 1d10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunchie;12606330*
> The plastic is affected by the coolant and deteriorates over time. I had some in my radiator and when I went to swap them out, it took about 5 minutes on each one because they had both swollen up on the thread.


well...i'm using distilled water + Petra Tech Pt Nuke.it is still dangerous?
i'm aware that plastic tends to change over time,and durabilty is no match compare to brass one.i hope it work well until i have enuf muny to change to a better block


----------



## tipgo

Minor adjustments. By adding new blocks into RAM, it is EK-RAM Dominator - Nickel.
Modify, and then by removing the stainless steel plate to cover the new


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Got wet last night, ran it all night without issues:


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;12608597*
> Minor adjustments. By adding new blocks into RAM, it is EK-RAM Dominator - Nickel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/url]


Is that black dye? It looks really good, but I'm sure here comes the gunk warnings.


----------



## koven

black dye? lol it looks like black tubing to me


----------



## GoodInk

Nope clear Tygon, look at his res.


----------



## koven

ah you're right, wow, why would anyone do that? it looks exactly like black tubing.... except you're gunkin up the blocks


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12610199*
> ah you're right, wow, why would anyone do that? It looks exactly like black tubing.... Except you're gunkin up the blocks


uv?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;12608597*
> Minor adjustments. By adding new blocks into RAM, it is EK-RAM Dominator - Nickel.
> Modify, and then by removing the stainless steel plate to cover the new




Beautiful take on the ram block to match the Koolance 360 block









Get it nickel or chrome plated, or even a high mirror polish to complete the look, just a thought for ya


----------



## Oh You Did




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

also, MOTM Poll for February is up! GO VOTE!

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...et-voting.html


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Hey guys, I haven't yet joined you but I would like your thoughts.

I was first going to just buy the XSPC Rasa RX360 Kit but then I got to looking around and I saw stuff that I would immediately replace. I found that if I were to buy the kit and replace certain parts, that I would actually be spending more than buying the parts outright.

I'm just looking to cool my cpu for the time being but I would like to move onto the gpu as well (want to make sure I dont change cards before I buy a block for it).

This is what I threw together:

XSPC RX360 - $87.95
https://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RX360-...r-pr-4384.html

EK Supreme HF - $87.95
https://www.jab-tech.com/EK-Supreme-...l-pr-4791.html

XSPC X20 750 - $49.95 (currently out of stock)
https://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-X2O-75...p-pr-4728.html

Bitspower 45 degree compression fittins (x4) - $63.80
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...409s1320#blank

Bitspower straight compression fittings (x2) -$17.90
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...l=g30c409s1033

Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (x3) - $47.85
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...l?tl=g36c15s60

Primochill tubing (x5ft. not sure on color yet and I figured extra for fill port/drain) - $8
https://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html

All of this comes to $363.40 whereas if I bought the kit and replaced the fittings, block, fans, tubing and added fill/drain it would put me around $445.

If I'm missing anything or if you just think I'm going overboard feel free to let me know as I'm new to water cooling and want to make sure I dont do something wrong.


----------



## MorbEIn

Since this is the watercooling club, I'll just post it here.

Didnt want to create a new thread for such a simple one question...
Has anybody heard of this top before?

Phobya Laing DDC top silver Nickel 
http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk...l-Edition.html

A colleague at work has one and he said i should buy his instead of buying something else...

Just want to know if its good or not, cuz i'll be replacing my pump/res bay combo with a mcp355+top ^_^

PS I just bought a 800D! was supposed to get TJ11 but i ended up witht he conclusion that TJ11 is just a TJ07 with wel.. few minor extra features.. i cant justify the price...

Thanks!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


also, MOTM Poll for February is up! GO VOTE!

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...et-voting.html


come on guys, go on there and vote


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


come on guys, go on there and vote

*snip*


Lots of other great builds there too besides yours


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Lots of other great builds there too besides yours










i never said vote for me, i thougt of OCN logo and put it up


----------



## Kahbrohn

I'm not old enough to vote...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I'm not old enough to vote...










you can PM your vote and it will get added, read the instructions on the poll page.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you can PM your vote and it will get added, read the instructions on the poll page.


Yeah... was j/k. I believe I already did. Fann took the vote in.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


Hey guys, I haven't yet joined you but I would like your thoughts.

I was first going to just buy the XSPC Rasa RX360 Kit but then I got to looking around and I saw stuff that I would immediately replace. I found that if I were to buy the kit and replace certain parts, that I would actually be spending more than buying the parts outright.

I'm just looking to cool my cpu for the time being but I would like to move onto the gpu as well (want to make sure I dont change cards before I buy a block for it).

This is what I threw together:

XSPC RX360 - $87.95
https://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RX360-...r-pr-4384.html

EK Supreme HF - $87.95
https://www.jab-tech.com/EK-Supreme-...l-pr-4791.html

XSPC X20 750 - $49.95 (currently out of stock)
https://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-X2O-75...p-pr-4728.html

Bitspower 45 degree compression fittins (x4) - $63.80
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...409s1320#blank

Bitspower straight compression fittings (x2) -$17.90
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...l=g30c409s1033

Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (x3) - $47.85
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...l?tl=g36c15s60

Primochill tubing (x5ft. not sure on color yet and I figured extra for fill port/drain) - $8
https://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html

All of this comes to $363.40 whereas if I bought the kit and replaced the fittings, block, fans, tubing and added fill/drain it would put me around $445.

If I'm missing anything or if you just think I'm going overboard feel free to let me know as I'm new to water cooling and want to make sure I dont do something wrong.



Kill coil
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...oir_Strip.html

AP-15's in stock
http://www.atacom.com/program/print_...90_124_162_253

XSPC X2O 750 in stock
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...tl=g30c107s152


----------



## xPwn

Here's My rig.It has the Corsair H50


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12611886*
> Hey guys, I haven't yet joined you but I would like your thoughts.
> 
> I was first going to just buy the XSPC Rasa RX360 Kit but then I got to looking around and I saw stuff that I would immediately replace. I found that if I were to buy the kit and replace certain parts, that I would actually be spending more than buying the parts outright.
> 
> I'm just looking to cool my cpu for the time being but I would like to move onto the gpu as well (want to make sure I dont change cards before I buy a block for it).
> 
> This is what I threw together:
> 
> XSPC RX360 - $87.95
> https://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RX360-Triple-120mm-high-performance-radiator-pr-4384.html
> 
> EK Supreme HF - $87.95
> https://www.jab-tech.com/EK-Supreme-HF-Full-Nickel-pr-4791.html
> 
> XSPC X20 750 - $49.95 (currently out of stock)
> https://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-X2O-750-Dual-5.25-Bay-Reservoir-Pump-pr-4728.html
> 
> Bitspower 45 degree compression fittins (x4) - $63.80
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12088/ex-tub-740/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Dual_Rotary_45-Degree_Compression_Fitting_CC4_For_ID_12_OD_58_Tube_BP-MB45R2CPF-CC4.html?tl=g30c409s1320#blank
> 
> Bitspower straight compression fittings (x2) -$17.90
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10034/ex-tub-602/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_12_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC4.html?tl=g30c409s1033
> 
> Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (x3) - $47.85
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1850_RPM_D1225C12B5AP-15.html?tl=g36c15s60
> 
> Primochill tubing (x5ft. not sure on color yet and I figured extra for fill port/drain) - $8
> https://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html
> 
> All of this comes to $363.40 whereas if I bought the kit and replaced the fittings, block, fans, tubing and added fill/drain it would put me around $445.
> 
> If I'm missing anything or if you just think I'm going overboard feel free to let me know as I'm new to water cooling and want to make sure I dont do something wrong.


You're missing the bolts to mount the fans, and the bolts to mount the radiator to the case, & fan grilles.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12613812*
> You're missing the bolts to mount the fans, and the bolts to mount the radiator to the case, & fan grilles.


I'm pretty sure XSPC includes them, my RX120 came with silver ones.


----------



## cigarbug

That res/pump combo has its own fill port, I believe.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=30282

Get at least 8' of tubing to allow for mistakes. If you don't need it you can make a nice beer bong with the leftovers.

Since you're way over budget, get that GPU block too.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cigarbug;12614136*
> That res/pump combo has its own fill port, I believe.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=30282
> 
> Get at least 8' of tubing to allow for mistakes. If you don't need it you can make a nice beer bong with the leftovers.
> 
> Since you're way over budget, get that GPU block too.


lol I like the gpu comment









Yeah, it does have a fill port but I have a 932 and it has a hole already at the top of the case so I wanted to get a threaded cap, run a tube and put a danger den fill port in to utilize that hole.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12613650*
> Kill coil
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html
> 
> AP-15's in stock
> http://www.atacom.com/program/print_html_new.cgi?Pagecode=SEARCH_ALL&Item_code=FANS_SCYT_GT_15&USER_ID=www&cart_id=7889099_190_124_162_253
> 
> XSPC X2O 750 in stock
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10038/ex-res-161/XSPC_X2O_750_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_Pump.html?tl=g30c107s152


thank you, sir


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Rev 3.0


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Mi gusta, or gusto I forget









Now onto cable sleeving


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12614578*
> lol I like the gpu comment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it does have a fill port but I have a 932 and it has a hole already at the top of the case so I wanted to get a threaded cap, run a tube and put a danger den fill port in to utilize that hole.


Keep in mind they are on opposite sides. So you might have to take up 3 bays to make it work.
If you can swing the price, I would get a different pump.
1. It doesn't have a lot of head pressure, CPU and 2 GPU's is really pushing it.
2. You can't remove the pump from the res, if it ever goes out you must replace both.
3. The pumps can be hit or miss in the noise department. Good ones are dead silent, bad ones sound like very loud HHD's defraging.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12614741*
> Keep in mind they are on opposite sides. So you might have to take up 3 bays to make it work.
> If you can swing the price, I would get a different pump.
> 1. It doesn't have a lot of head pressure, CPU and 2 GPU's is really pushing it.
> 2. You can't remove the pump from the res, if it ever goes out you must replace both.
> 3. The pumps can be hit or miss in the noise department. Good ones are dead silent, bad ones sound like very loud HHD's defraging.


I only occupy one bay currently.

I had kinda heard mixed things about the res/pump. Which is why I'm glad I consulted the forum before just blindly buying something that may or not be worth a damn. Looks like a still have a lot of research to do


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12614749*
> I only occupy one bay currently.
> 
> I had kinda heard mixed things about the res/pump. Which is why I'm glad I consulted the forum before just blindly buying something that may or not be worth a damn. Looks like a still have a lot of research to do


The Rasa kits are great kits for great cooling on a budget, but if you want quite fans, WC GPU's sli/crossfire, and good looks to go with it (I think the block lacks in looks, plus barbs don't look the best), then its not the way to go. I'm not sure if you know about this kit.

Ek H30 Supreme HF 360 - $279.95

EK-Supreme HF - Nickel - the block you wanted
EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360) - Good rad
Yate Loon D12SH (2200rpm) - Good fans
EK-DCP 4.0 (Pump) - Better Pump
EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150 Advanced - 932 fill port may not work out
EK-DCP PUMP mounting plate KIT - to mount the pump, lol
TUBE Masterkleer 9.5mm ID/12.7mm OD CLEAR (2 meters) - Up to you
EK-PSC Fitting 10mm - G1/4 Nickel (8 pcs) - Silver compression fittings
EK-Ekoolant UV Blue (concentrate 100ml) - I'd throw away
TIM Arctic Cooling MX-2 (EKWB 2g) - Great TIM
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12368/ex-wat-164/Ek_H30_Supreme_HF_360_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_EK-KIT_H3O_-_Supreme_HF_360.html?tl=c321s1367b133


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12615040*
> The Rasa kits are great kits for great cooling on a budget, but if you want quite fans, WC GPU's sli/crossfire, and good looks to go with it (I think the block lacks in looks, plus barbs don't look the best), then its not the way to go. I'm not sure if you know about this kit.
> 
> Ek H30 Supreme HF 360 - $279.95
> 
> EK-Supreme HF - Nickel - the block you wanted
> EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360) - Good rad
> Yate Loon D12SH (2200rpm) - Good fans
> EK-DCP 4.0 (Pump) - Better Pump
> EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150 Advanced - 932 fill port may not work out
> EK-DCP PUMP mounting plate KIT - to mount the pump, lol
> TUBE Masterkleer 9.5mm ID/12.7mm OD CLEAR (2 meters) - Up to you
> EK-PSC Fitting 10mm - G1/4 Nickel (8 pcs) - Silver compression fittings
> EK-Ekoolant UV Blue (concentrate 100ml) - *I'd throw away*
> TIM Arctic Cooling MX-2 (EKWB 2g) - Great TIM
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12368/ex-wat-164/Ek_H30_Supreme_HF_360_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_EK-KIT_H3O_-_Supreme_HF_360.html?tl=c321s1367b133


lol @ Ekoolant =P

looks like a pretty solid kit


----------



## AdvanSuper

Wish I had quick disconnects right now... Hard to drain a dual GPU loop.. Any suggestions? My top card is still retaining water as well as the rad and cpu block. I thought about loosening one of the ports on the GPU block, but I'm not sure if water will spill out and that would be pretty bad if it did lol.


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12616796*
> Wish I had quick disconnects right now... Hard to drain a dual GPU loop.. Any suggestions? My top card is still retaining water as well as the rad and cpu block. I thought about loosening one of the ports on the GPU block, but I'm not sure if water will spill out and that would be pretty bad if it did lol.


one thing you could do is turn the case on its side. Or you could blow through one of the lines which would help force some more of the water out.


----------



## wermad

disco the tube from the bottom card, get a small bowl (I use kiddie bowls from my daughters collection) or a small container, once the cpu is drain, disco the cpu line that goes to your bridge on the cpu end, blow on the tube a bit (







), make sure you catch the water.


----------



## AdvanSuper

That's exactly what I did 15 minutes ago lol, but I blew into the tube so it filled the res and it worked like a charm


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ShortySmalls

meh ive soaked my GTX 580 and mobo tryin to get all the water out of my blocks, took the intake tube (exhuats from cpu) and it had water in it still.. just took the card out shook it off got a q-tip and dryied it abit then it worked just fine!


----------



## grazz1984

Just braught a asus hd5770 1gb with EK FC-5770 waterblock £105 shipped. is that cheep?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12619489*
> Just braught a asus hd5770 1gb with EK FC-5770 waterblock £105 shipped. is that cheep?


Since you got the water block with it and shipped id say yes. locally Used Hd5770 go for $100CAD-$130CAD

And you paid £105 shipped = 142.8945 CAD


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12616796*
> Wish I had quick disconnects right now... Hard to drain a dual GPU loop.. Any suggestions? My top card is still retaining water as well as the rad and cpu block. I thought about loosening one of the ports on the GPU block, but I'm not sure if water will spill out and that would be pretty bad if it did lol.


I swore Koolance up and down when I bought 4 (2 sets) of those QDCs for making them so expensive, but man they are worth every last penny! I have them either side of my GPUs so I can pull them as a unit, makes it convenient to test cards on air too because I can reconnect the loop as CPU only without having to rebleed. Glad you got the loop drained ok.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12619489*
> Just braught a asus hd5770 1gb with EK FC-5770 waterblock £105 shipped. is that cheep?


Sounds like a good deal to me but I'm not good with prices


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12619897*
> I swore Koolance up and down when I bought 4 (2 sets) of those QDCs for making them so expensive, but man they are worth every last penny! I have them either side of my GPUs so I can pull them as a unit, makes it convenient to test cards on air too because I can reconnect the loop as CPU only without having to rebleed. Glad you got the loop drained ok.


Can you show me a pic of the QDC please


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12619943*
> Can you show me a pic of the QDC please



Cards installed, flow is up from the bottom.


Cards removed as a unit.


Re-connected as CPU only.

Edit: These are VL3N's.


----------



## Faster/Denis




----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster/Denis;12620157*


thats amazing dude, perfection, bet she hoots too:drool:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster/Denis;12620157*


thats the mountain modz ascension right, looks Fing Sweet, but why do you have an xpander is that only used on the Formula and not the extreme, and it that why it looks like your video cards are sitting high


----------



## Mongol

D:

scariest thing ever: there was a bubble in the inlet tube of my loop that just dislodged..it was somewhere unseen. (I knew something was up as my pump started getting a little noisy) suddenly, there was a little light thump, then my pump went whoooooosh and started bubbling like crazy and my res level dropped a good 1/4"...man I was looking for a leak all panicky. then it calmed down, and it's all back to normal.

:whew:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mastical

For the love of baby Jesus don't quote a crap ton of pictures.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;12622811*
> For the love of baby Jesus don't quote a crap ton of pictures.


My Bad lol


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12601107*
> kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> take lots of pics


As promised here they are:








Bubbles still working their way out.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

looks nice









updated


----------



## Dissentience

Heres some pics with my loop redone... better/cleaner pics to come once I get my modular PSU in.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12620432*
> D:
> 
> scariest thing ever: there was a bubble in the inlet tube of my loop that just dislodged..it was somewhere unseen. (I knew something was up as my pump started getting a little noisy) suddenly, there was a little light thump, then my pump went whoooooosh and started bubbling like crazy and my res level dropped a good 1/4"...man I was looking for a leak all panicky. then it calmed down, and it's all back to normal.
> 
> :whew:


----------



## SilentAssassin82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12554235*
> Nicely done...but lol...that's some serious flow in your reservoir...some mega cyclone action in there.


LOL yea I know, it has a cool look to it when its running especially with the blue leds on. When my pc is silent, the only thing you hear is the reservoir churning up all that water. in fact mega cyclone is the name of the reservoir from koolance.


----------



## Havoknova

just wana share my loop to u guys...

just finish doin it just now and im running prime and get nice resulat so far...

prime and leak test together in 1 shot lolz...


----------



## fenderlove0`

I tweaked the cable management a bit and untied the top hoses and I think it looks slightly better


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

hawt


----------



## albie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12626593*
> Heres some pics with my loop redone... better/cleaner pics to come once I get my modular PSU in.


nice job, gotta love the XSPC kits


----------



## Faster/Denis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12620216*
> thats amazing dude, perfection, bet she hoots too:drool:


thx bro


----------



## bundymania

Now with lighting - i like it !


----------



## ScurK

I digg your style, bundy... but when are we gonna see some pics of everything up and running?


----------



## bundymania

Hehe, good question...i dunno, hopefully soon







I´m working simultan on 3 projects and some upcoming reviews and Beta Tests....


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxlawman87xx;12626432*
> As promised here they are:


How do you like the fit/finish of the res paired with the 800D? I'm really considering this


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxlawman87xx;12626432*
> As promised here they are:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bubbles still working their way out.


i like it except for the gap at the top of the rez... why is there a gap there?


----------



## grazz1984

Hi im sure ive asked this before but how do i creat my own build log, im going to start adding pictures asoon as i find out how to


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12632872*
> Hi im sure ive asked this before but how do i creat my own build log, im going to start adding pictures asoon as i find out how to


you start a thread and format it as one...


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12632872*
> Hi im sure ive asked this before but how do i creat my own build log, im going to start adding pictures asoon as i find out how to


To imbed images you can upload your pictures to tinypics or imageshack or whoever you like, then wrap the link with "







" without the quotes.

This thread makes me horny


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


you start a thread and format it as one...










Sorry im a noob, could you talk me through it please lol


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grazz1984*









Sorry im a noob, could you talk me through it please lol


start a thread and use the formatting tools such as the "add image button" and resize/ color text ones. The box that shows up every time you start a thread with Fonts, Sizes, B I U, etc all of the place with the smileys on the right. There's not much more to it. It functions the same as microsoft word


----------



## smex

hey there.. re-arranged my rig, here it is..




























hope u like it


----------



## thrasherht

yay pictures.









I recently decided to take some pictures under a UV light. here is what I came up with.

First a picture of the light I used. Overkill a bit. It is a full sized 4 foot bulb you put in normal overhead lights. got it at spencers for like 35 dollars, with the light fixture.









here are the real pictures you want.

































































ok picture spam over.


----------



## grazz1984

Can someone please help me, watercool my system i have two 240mm rads cpu, 2x gtx280 in sli watercooled, ek multioption res and my pump. ive been looking for ages for some pics or instructions but aint had any luck finding any, so if anyone here could help me that would be great,

Thanks in advance


----------



## grazz1984

Does this diagram look rite to you guys did it with a little help, if it looks rong plz let me kno


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12634402*
> Does this diagram look rite to you guys did it with a little help, if it looks rong plz let me kno


that would work just fine. I would personally put the CPU before the GPU in the loop. But I don't think it will make a difference.


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12632321*
> i like it except for the gap at the top of the rez... why is there a gap there?


It not that theres a difference in the gap its just that thats where the LEDS go in and they put out a lot of light. It looks much worse in the pic than it is in person.


----------



## Qu1ckset

When i Build mine its going to go REZ/PUMP>RAD>GPU'S>RAD>CPU>REZ/PUMP


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxlawman87xx;12634533*
> It not that theres a difference in the gap its just that thats where the LEDS go in and they put out a lot of light. It looks much worse in the pic than it is in person.


Oh ok lol, question so with the 2x Pump version, its for two different loops?
so i could do a set up like this:
1st Half Rez/Pump>Rad>Cpu>Rez/Pump
2nd Half Rez/Pump>Rad>Gpu's>Rez/Pump

Would this work better then having it all on the same loop like my above post?


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12632065*
> How do you like the fit/finish of the res paired with the 800D? I'm really considering this


I really like it. The black is not exactly the same but with the lines of the res and the overall look, it pair quite nicely with the case. since this pic I have moved the res up one slot. When it was on bottom resting on that lower flat portion, there was a little to much pump vibration resonating through the case. Moving it up one slot really helped.


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12634579*
> Oh ok lol, question so with the 2x Pump version, its for to different loops?
> so i could do a set like this:
> 1st Half Rez/Pump>Rad>Cpu>Rez/Pump
> 2nd Half Rez/Pump>Rad>Gpu's>Rez/Pump
> 
> Would this work better then having it all on the same loop like my above post?


I have my pumps in series. The res can either do a series setup or a parallel setup. I like the series beacause it uses less tubing and with my moderate restriction it really helps. My loop runs RES -> Pump -> GPU ->Nb/SB -> 240 res ->CPU ->360 rad ->res. I used to run it the other way and I switched it just to see what it would do and to my surprise it dropped all my temps about 3c. My water temp is about 30-32c and my CPU temps are about 35-37 idle running at 3.4ghz. My gpu idles about 36c as well. If you look back through my earlier posts you can see my whole loop. page870 i think.


----------



## FreeWillzyx

Here is mine It's a work in progress so I'm not done yet.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12632872*
> Hi im sure ive asked this before but how do i creat my own build log, im going to start adding pictures asoon as i find out how to


on opening page scroll down to case mods:build logs, then when that loads theres a box at the top left that says make new thread, click on that enter the name and some info, and add all your pics to a photobucket or image shack account and copy the url of the picture you want to add and back at OCN click the little square icon with a mountain and sun at the top of your reply box. and if you cant get it from this then you shouldnt be using computers let alone building them, lol


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12630947*
> Now with lighting - i like it !


cant wait to see this build, i think it will make my pants feel funny


----------



## Infernosaint

The EK logo shining in the ram block is seriously sexy!


----------



## bundymania

Yeah, i painted it white with an edding 780


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## repo_man

What radiator is that? It looks SEXY (I'm doing a steampunk mod







)


----------



## Colonel Sanders

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxlawman87xx;12626432*


Hey lawman, looks great! I'm about to order myself one, but I was wondering does it come with both o-rings? I don't need to order anything extra right? And i'm assuming it works with all the variations of the D5.


----------



## Oli4v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man;12643201*
> What radiator is that? It looks SEXY (I'm doing a steampunk mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


some magicool rad if i'm not mistaking, tough they start leaking very easily ...


----------



## elbeasto




----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto;12648026*


Very. very nice rig sir.








What case is that..??


----------



## gdawg33

Tj07


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Colonel Sanders;12644500*
> Hey lawman, looks great! I'm about to order myself one, but I was wondering does it come with both o-rings? I don't need to order anything extra right? And i'm assuming it works with all the variations of the D5.


Yep it comes with O rings. Make sure you buy the necessary fittings and tubing to run series, if ya plan to do so. LEDs are separate too. Yea it fits all variations of the D5. you can look up all the specs on the koolance website


----------



## SadistBlinx

I'm not sure if this is being updated or not...so
Here is my first WC setup on sigrig.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1697080


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12650896*


love it. Definitely unique.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto;12648026*
> *om nom nomed pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


really clean nice setup









specs? is that a 780i sli board? or something close to that


----------



## Skiivari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12650896*
> *pic*


Sry, dont like it :[
Too much green, the balance of the colors is off IMO


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12650896*
> *snip*


700D Nvidia Edition. Oh, right, you're running Red cards









I can't say I'm a huge fan of the green paint, but I do love the acrylic floor and the concepts you've got going- great work


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto;12648026*


TJ07 o so sexy of a case


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12651200*
> love it. Definitely unique.


Thanks man... I try to be different. Show something that has never been done.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skiivari;12653511*
> Sry, dont like it :[
> Too much green, the balance of the colors is off IMO


k
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12656062*
> 700D Nvidia Edition. Oh, right, you're running Red cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say I'm a huge fan of the green paint, but I do love the acrylic floor and the concepts you've got going- great work


Thanks

I'm planning for 580s but I'm having a hard time selling these 5850s... but either way I didn't do it for Nvidia coloring or anything I just really like green and black


----------



## grazz1984

Does anyone here know where i can get a full board waterblock for rampage extreme motherboard, ive search everywere but cant seem to find any.

Thanks


----------



## nickbaldwin86

which rampage board? 2 or 3???

http://www.dangerden.com/store/re3-full-coverage-block-rampage-iii-extreme.html


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12658477*
> Does anyone here know where i can get a full board waterblock for rampage extreme motherboard, ive search everywere but cant seem to find any.
> 
> Thanks


I'm guessing 3
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11068/ex-blc-772/EK_ASUS_Rampage_III_Extreme_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_Nickel_EK-FB_RE3_-_Nickel_Hot_Item.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11069/ex-blc-773/EK_ASUS_Rampage_III_Extreme_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FB_RE3_-_Acetal_Nickel_Hot_Item.html

Reviews on the RE3 waterblocks
http://skinneelabs.com/asus-r3e_blocks/


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12658984*
> which rampage board? 2 or 3???
> 
> http://www.dangerden.com/store/re3-full-coverage-block-rampage-iii-extreme.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12659001*
> I'm guessing 3
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11068/ex-blc-772/EK_ASUS_Rampage_III_Extreme_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_Nickel_EK-FB_RE3_-_Nickel_Hot_Item.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11069/ex-blc-773/EK_ASUS_Rampage_III_Extreme_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FB_RE3_-_Acetal_Nickel_Hot_Item.html
> 
> Reviews on the RE3 waterblocks
> http://skinneelabs.com/asus-r3e_blocks/


Hi no its just the rampage extreme the skt 775 one.

Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12656062*
> *700D Nvidia Edition. Oh, right, you're running Red cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> I can't say I'm a huge fan of the green paint, but I do love the acrylic floor and the concepts you've got going- great work


I thought about the same thing, then looked at the specs and he is running AMD/ATI









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12650896*


Nice build Nick, sleeve job reminds me of Vipers build. Nice to see 140mm rad support


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12659130*
> Hi no its just the rampage extreme the skt 775 one.
> 
> Thanks


Sorry double post...so far, no "full-cover blocks for the RIE, unless someone can find one







. I would recommend going with universal blocks. They're are quite a few out there for nb and the sb, koolance makes a nice uni vrm block.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Nice build Nick, sleeve job reminds me of Vipers build. Nice to see 140mm rad support










Thanks

I have not seen many other black and UV green setups... I wanted to do red but seems like every other PC is red and black. I have done blue to many times.


----------



## Jeeps

Here is the second revision of my current build. I went ahead and sleeved the tubes as I couldn't find any decent UV orange dye.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeeps*


Here is the second revision of my current build. I went ahead and sleeved the tubes as I couldn't find any decent UV orange dye.











Good. you didn't use dye. Clogs up blocks.


----------



## wermad

just pulled the trigger on a FrozenQ fusion res, I've always wanted one


----------



## RushMore1205

^^ NICE i want to get one also

Just started my Budget WC HTPC build, for more pics check out my log in my signature


----------



## Onions

lol same i built a htcp thats wc troo put it in a fractal r3 case (L) got a r2e cheap here used and my old 920 in it







total stupid over killl but im hosting 2 mc servers as well as a vent server XD its gonna be hell to manage


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12664278*
> lol same i built a htcp thats wc troo put it in a fractal r3 case (L) got a r2e cheap here used and my old 920 in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> total stupid over killl but im hosting 2 mc servers as well as a vent server XD its gonna be hell to manage


yeah the reason i went WC is cause this one is going to be on 24/7 folding and serving MKV to the rest of the house, so it needs to run cold


----------



## Onions

mine just needs to be silent XD only problem is im worried there wont be enough air through the rad... i have no faans on it but a stong posative pressure in the case and through that rad is the only way out and i mean only way out


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12664171*
> ^^ NICE i want to get one also
> 
> Just started my Budget WC HTPC build, for more pics check out my log in my signature


20% of FrozenQ's res for a limited time







:

http://www.overclock.net/online-deals/958472-frozenq-20-off-frozenqpcmods-com.html


----------



## RushMore1205

yeah i know i might pik up the dual bay res with white helix, im still thinking if i want to drop so much money on res or get another 450 and a sli board
i was doin calculations and my 550w psu will handle 2 450s


----------



## wermad

I wanted to do uv blue and red but the red looks a bit pinkish imo. The blue is fine since the leds on the blocks have that white-blueish hue to them. I'm still scratching my head how I'm going to plumb this guy. Still got plenty of time though









edit: 550w is more than enough for 450s


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12664278*
> lol same i built a htcp thats wc troo put it in a fractal r3 case (L) got a r2e cheap here used and my old 920 in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> total stupid over killl but im hosting 2 mc servers as well as a vent server XD its gonna be hell to manage


im actually writing this from exact same machine, which i also recently built with my old r2e, 920, and 6gb of spare doms, lol. overkills an understatement


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12650589*
> Very. very nice rig sir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case is that..??


Why thank you kind sir.









It's a Silverstone TJ07.
They're getting a little long in the tooth but they're still excellent cases for water cooling.
Having said that, the TJ11 came out recently which is fairly reminiscent of the TJ07.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;12653481*
> really clean nice setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs? is that a 780i sli board? or something close to that


Thanks, it was my first attempt at water cooling & if nothing else I wanted it to be neat! LoL









I'll update my sig with specs but basically it was:
EVGA 750i-FTW, EVGA GTX 470, E8400, HX 1000 PSU
EK Blocks, Feser Rad, Noiseblocker fans, Bitspower fittings, Primochill tube.
MDPC-X Sleeve









The TJ07 is a great case for water cooling but I think I want to do a Lian Li Build next.
Maybe an A77F or an A70F, maybe even a Corsair 800D or TJ11???
Leaning toward the Lian Li's but still undecided...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12656097*
> TJ07 o so sexy of a case


Ha, yep, they're nice cases for water cooling.
Good for air too with lots of fans & HDD space.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Does any Company make a Rez like this with a built-in pump, it doesn't have to have the twists or lights inside... im planning on build a w/c setup in a SilverStone FT03, space is very limited


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12666349*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does any Company make a Rez like this with a built-in pump, it doesn't have to have the twists or lights inside... im planning on build a w/c setup in a SilverStone FT03, space is very limited


FrozenQ makes them, but not with built in pumps. Having a separate pump allows you to change it in the future. If you are looking for integrated pumps/reservoirs, there are a few bay reservoirs that allow you to attach the pump to the res directly.

btw, that's the res I'm getting though w/ the new end caps and side ports


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12666370*
> FrozenQ makes them, but not with built in pumps. Having a separate pump allows you to change it in the future. If you are looking for integrated pumps/reservoirs, there are a few bay reservoirs that allow you to attach the pump to the res directly.
> 
> btw, that's the res I'm getting though w/ the new end caps and side ports


Lol its gunna look sick, in your already crazy sick case!

and the FT03 has no drive bays, so i guess im going to have to mount a pump somewhere


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12666349*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does any Company make a Rez like this with a built-in pump, it doesn't have to have the twists or lights inside... im planning on build a w/c setup in a SilverStone FT03, space is very limited


You mean just a cylindrical reservoir?
This one is a combo DDC Top/Reservoir. It fits MCP355s
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=22868


----------



## grazz1984

Hi ive just had a rad give to me but it has a few squashed fins, will it still be ok to use?


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12668064*
> Hi ive just had a rad give to me but it has a few squashed fins, will it still be ok to use?


Should be fine as long as it doesn't leak


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12668072*
> Should be fine as long as it doesn't leak


Exellent, Thanks


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12666349*
> Does any Company make a Rez like this with a built-in pump, it doesn't have to have the twists or lights inside... im planning on build a w/c setup in a SilverStone FT03, space is very limited


EK has one that is small and looks good and from what I have read its a pretty good pump too.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=26773

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=26774


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amantonas;12666705*
> You mean just a cylindrical reservoir?
> This one is a combo DDC Top/Reservoir. It fits MCP355s
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=22868


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12668414*
> EK has one that is small and looks good and from what I have read its a pretty good pump too.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=26773
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=26774


+1 Rep, Both are what im looking for but amantonas already comes together. So there is no other version that has the lights and stuff like frozenQ??

And Can you Guys Help me with my Questions in this thread please, no one is replying, and i dont want to repost here
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/960778-radiator-gpu-help-please.html

Thanks


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


just pulled the trigger on a FrozenQ fusion res, I've always wanted one




















Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I wanted to do uv blue and red but the red looks a bit pinkish imo. The blue is fine since the leds on the blocks have that white-blueish hue to them. I'm still scratching my head how I'm going to plumb this guy. Still got plenty of time though










Congrats! I'm having the same plumbing issues because I want one too, I'm in talks to get him to do a custom res for me







I'll post pics when it gets started...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Does any Company make a Rez like this with a built-in pump, it doesn't have to have the twists or lights inside... im planning on build a w/c setup in a SilverStone FT03, space is very limited



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


+1 Rep, Both are what im looking for but amantonas already comes together. So there is no other version that has the lights and stuff like frozenQ??

And Can you Guys Help me with my Questions in this thread please, no one is replying, and i dont want to repost here
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...lp-please.html

Thanks


Swiftech also makes a DDC top with res, so does XSPC and EK. Will post links in your other thread.


----------



## AsanteSoul

Hey guys...I'm not sure if this is the appropriate area to post this, but I still hope someone can help me out...I'm looking for a link or a guide..or some assistance...on how to set up a custom water cooling loop to a single GPU... I'm using a 600T case and I know it's feasible because I've seen some on the site..but..where to begin?


----------



## GoodInk

Big EK sale!!
http://www.tilatech.com/brands/EK-Water-Blocks.html


----------



## grazz1984

Gi people ive just gone to put the barbs out of a radiator my friend has given me but they seem to be about 3mm to small ive just measured them and it looks like there about 6 or 7mm, so does anyone kno what size barbs i will need for my rad please the holes in my rad are about 9mm i couldnt see properly but its around that area

Thanks

Edit: The plastic barbs i have measure 9mm


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Big EK sale!!
http://www.tilatech.com/brands/EK-Water-Blocks.html


that was posted a few days ago, great prices but nothing good left, most are out of stock now


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grazz1984*


Gi people ive just gone to put the barbs out of a radiator my friend has given me but they seem to be about 3mm to small ive just measured them and it looks like there about 6 or 7mm, so does anyone kno what size barbs i will need for my rad please the holes in my rad are about 9mm i couldnt see properly but its around that area

Thanks


What rad do you have?


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


What rad do you have?


it aint got a brand onit but the plastic barbs i got wit h it measure 9mm?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grazz1984*


it aint got a brand onit but the plastic barbs i got wit h it measure 9mm?


it probably uses g3/8" barbs instead of the standard g1/4"


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


it probably uses g3/8" barbs instead of the standard g1/4"


were can i buy them from mate in uk? i dont really want to be using plastic barbs lol


----------



## RushMore1205

got some tubing done for my new HTPC


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grazz1984*


were can i buy them from mate in uk? i dont really want to be using plastic barbs lol


Here.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


got some tubing done for my new HTPC











Watercooling the NB but not your graphics card? I know what normally makes more noise.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Watercooling the NB but not your graphics card? I know what normally makes more noise.


Cheaper maybe?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


it probably uses g3/8" barbs instead of the standard g1/4"


These translate into 9.525mm or 6.35mm respectively. The "G" is the thread type and you need to make sure you get the right thread type as well. One has more threading per inch than the other.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Watercooling the NB but not your graphics card? I know what normally makes more noise.


its a gts 450, not a hardcore gpu to warrant water tbh.


----------



## KillerBeaz

also, im pretty sure the nb gets hot as hell on that board


----------



## RushMore1205

yes the northbridge gets extremly hot after unlocking the dual core to quad and oc to 3.8, folding 24/7

yes its a gts 450 asus has really outdone themselves, this card at 1ghz never hits above 47c, im truly amazed, so no need to water, the fan never goes above 45%. the best budget card i have ever owned.

the northbridge block i got for 15$, i just could not say no


----------



## Onions

mine is completely under water.... however i need to get a better gpu the 250 i have aint gonna cut it


----------



## bl1nk

A quick rep to whoever finds me a Gentle Typhoon 1850 (ap-15) somewhere. Just upgraded to a 480 rad and am lacking 1 fan, can't find these anywhere currently.


----------



## AdvanSuper

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/scge120mmsic2.html


----------



## mekaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;12676325*
> A quick rep to whoever finds me a Gentle Typhoon 1850 (ap-15) somewhere. Just upgraded to a 480 rad and am lacking 1 fan, can't find these anywhere currently.


don't know how much shiping is to states but dazmode got 33 in stock.

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_88&products_id=1148


----------



## bl1nk

$25?!

Ugh, guess I can't be picky. Thanks!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Everyone is OOS of them lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mekaw;12676359*
> don't know how much shiping is to states but dazmode got 33 in stock.
> 
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_88&products_id=1148


It's $13 and will take 2-4 weeks lol.


----------



## wermad

yate loons ~$3.35/ea. = ftw


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12676351*
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/scge120mmsic2.html


Gah, this reminds me of the WoW AH... quantities drop so Bullmarket's prices go up. I need 3 of these too, btw.


----------



## mekaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12676376*
> Everyone is OOS of them lol.
> 
> It's $13 and will take 2-4 weeks lol.


shipping time estimate is way off though, but then I do live in canada, I usually get my stuff about 2 or 3 days earlier than the estimated delivery date.


----------



## bl1nk

Eh I'll spend the extra $10 to not have to wait a few weeks. I'm a bit bummed though, I was signed up for the 2150rpm group buy, it's been just about a month with no word from Chipp or anybody yet.


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ok so im ordering my final parts on friday for my w/c build, i want to start my FT03 build ([email protected] Rig) really soon.

So performance-Pc's is out of ap15s so unless there in stock by friday, im buying different fans, what do you guys think of these, i *think* they have more pressure then the ap15s
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25027:cd474b4ab41fc92a70637e090b5f6f2a

If this fan is crappy, can you please recommend to good fans, for a Black Ice GTX Gen Two Xtreme 120

And i was wondering how to wash out a brand new Radiator?


----------



## eR_L0k0!!




----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*


*snip*


Gorgeous build you have there! Nice work.









I pulled out my handmade wood tech bench the other day and set up my stuff on it. I've got a few things to do before it's presentable, but I'll try to post some pictures eventually.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


Eh I'll spend the extra $10 to not have to wait a few weeks. I'm a bit bummed though, I was signed up for the 2150rpm group buy, *it's been just about a month with no word from Chipp or anybody yet*.


Same here, I even set him a PM a week ago and no response. I'm trying hard to keep my $100 that I alotted for GT's from getting spent on the CL discount or FQ discount this month









Quote:



Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*


...


Great build, I love the color of the water vs the sleeve color!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Ok so im ordering my final parts on friday for my w/c build, i want to start my FT03 build ([email protected] Rig) really soon.

So performance-Pc's is out of ap15s so unless there in stock by friday, im buying different fans, what do you guys think of these, i *think* they have more pressure then the ap15s
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...637e090b5f6f2a

If this fan is crappy, can you please recommend to good fans, for a Black Ice GTX Gen Two Xtreme 120

And i was wondering how to wash out a brand new Radiator?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Same here, I even set him a PM a week ago and no response. I'm trying hard to keep my $100 that I alotted for GT's from getting spent on the CL discount or FQ discount this month









Great build, I love the color of the water vs the sleeve color!


AP-15's in stock @ $16.95 with out shipping.
http://www.atacom.com/program/print_...69_130_22_63_1


----------



## bundymania

Today...something different....not so clean like always....straight from my crazy lab


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Today...something different....not so clean like always....straight from my crazy lab



















NOW we REALLY know what you do with those millions and millions of fitting you get for free!

It's "Fitting Man!"


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Today...something different....not so clean like always....straight from my crazy lab



















Now you're just showing off







Those builds look awesome though!

Also, since I see you've got one in there: what do you think of the Koolance filter?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Today...something different....not so clean like always....straight from my crazy lab










Show off







I wish I had all that stuff to play with.


----------



## bundymania

The Diameter of the filter inlay is to wide...imo
mips and magicool filter are better


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t-ramp*


Gorgeous build you have there! Nice work.







.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Great build, I love the color of the water vs the sleeve color!


Thanks guys









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Today...something different....not so clean like always....straight from my crazy lab



















Hey Bundy, if you left over, you could send me home ... xD

A few days ago I asked for another forum, whether it was worth changing the Thermochil PA120.3 on the Coolgate, I do not know if you remember.
Then I have another question, I bought a Dimastech v2.5, like your photo. And I wonder, if the holes on the top (just behind the motherboard, where the 8-pin connector), and there might be a 19mm hose?

Sorry for English ..


----------



## bundymania

Greetings to Tenerife, i want to visit your beautiful isle again for holiday soon







Loro Park ftw









Yes i remember your radiator question @XS









Those holes are max. for 16/10mm tubing (5/8")


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Greetings to Tenerife, i want to visit your beautiful isle again for holiday soon







Loro Park ftw










For here we are waiting









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Those holes are max. for 16/10mm tubing (5/8")


Too bad ...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


AP-15's in stock @ $16.95 with out shipping.
http://www.atacom.com/program/print_...69_130_22_63_1


Backordered


----------



## Qu1ckset

I Just ordered the two ap15s from dazmode for $55 shipping included.
these fans for so expensive...


----------



## mekaw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


I Just ordered the two ap15s from dazmode for $55 shipping included.
these fans for so expensive...


it's mainly the shipping and tax.

for me 2 ap15 from daz cost 60 bucks shipped to bc. eek.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Backordered


Does it only show that after you make a log in? If so I'm sorry


----------



## grazz1984

Hi im despeate in need of two G3/8" 1/2" barbs please anyone got some laying around let me kno


----------



## Qu1ckset

Um am i crazy or did page 889 disappear?
@grazz1984, why don't you order some, the longer you wait the long they take to arrive, or is money a issue at the moment?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Um am i crazy or did page 889 disappear?
@grazz1984, why don't you order some, the longer you wait the long they take to arrive, or is money a issue at the moment?


Page 889 is there - last one with OP on it. So share whatever you are smoking!!! (just kidding).


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Um am i crazy or did page 889 disappear?
@grazz1984, why don't you order some, the longer you wait the long they take to arrive, or is money a issue at the moment?


yea money abit of a issue at moment as just orderd nealy everything for my build


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grazz1984*


yea money abit of a issue at moment as just orderd nealy everything for my build










I know how that is... i purchased half my w/c build which costed $600ish, and im buying the other half tomorrow $500 lol did you try ebay, or local internet classifieds eg. kijiji, adn craigslist


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


I know how that is... i purchased half my w/c build which costed $600ish, and im buying the other half tomorrow $500 lol did you try ebay, or local internet classifieds eg. kijiji, adn craigslist


Yea tried them all, only need two of them aswell







im willing to trade!


----------



## Blindsay

Ok this is my previous build on my Antec 1200 and was my first watercooling build


----------



## Blindsay

little later and with an 800D this is my current build





































Before my custom psu extensions but the color of my res came out a lot better


----------



## R00ST3R

^^Nice rig Blindsay^^


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;12683680*
> ^^Nice rig Blindsay^^


thank you, im happy the way my new build came out


----------



## trekman

My last update on my rig Tri SLI with 1200W Psu


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trekman;12683785*
> My last update on my rig Tri SLI with 1200W Psu


How many Rads do you have?


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12683800*
> How many Rads do you have?


From the looks of it just one triple.


----------



## trekman

Just 1 RX360
fully loaded OC to 4.3
My temps are

CPU 48C
GPU 52/54/51C

room temp about 76 Degrees


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trekman;12683840*
> Just 1 RX360
> fully loaded OC to 4.3
> My temps are
> 
> CPU 48C
> GPU 52/54/51C
> 
> room temp about 76 Degrees


that aint to bad, are those temps idle or load?


----------



## A-Dub

Finally got everything moved over to the M8:


----------



## trekman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12683889*
> that aint to bad, are those temps idle or load?


thats full Load


----------



## Onions

wow proof?


----------



## trendy

New Loop. In my new Corsair Obsidian 800D.



Res: EK DCP 4.0 Combo Res
Pump: Jingway DP1200 (DCP 4.0 OEM)
CPU: Magicool MC Rev 2
Rad: XSPC RX240
Fans: NZXT FN-120 47CFM
Fluid: Distilled w/ KillCoil

Need to get a XSPC RX120, a GPU block, 4 more fans (for push/pull), and some more fittings. Other than that, it's done for the time being.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12685873*
> wow proof?


Me too!

I hit 60-70c with ht on @ 100% load. idle ~40c, what did you use for stress testing?


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy;12685949*
> New Loop. In my new Corsair Obsidian 800D.
> 
> Res: EK DCP 4.0 Combo Res
> Pump: Jingway DP1200 (DCP 4.0 OEM)
> CPU: Magicool MC Rev 2
> Rad: XSPC RX240
> Fans: NZXT FN-120 47CFM
> Fluid: Distilled w/ KillCoil
> 
> Need to get a XSPC RX120, a GPU block, 4 more fans (for push/pull), and some more fittings. Other than that, it's done for the time being.


why would you get a 240 and a 120 instead of a 360... the 360 fits up top perfectly..


----------



## Blindsay

with a single 360 on my setup i idle around 40c cpu and 40c gpu's. Load is like 60c cpu and 50c gpus


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12686044*
> Me too!
> 
> I hit 60-70c with ht on @ 100% load. idle ~40c, what did you use for stress testing?


There's no way he's getting those temps. My cpu is on a loop with a sr1 120, 240, and 360 and load temps with the same vcore are 55.


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12686078*
> why would you get a 240 and a 120 instead of a 360... the 360 fits up top perfectly..


Because I don't feel like trying to sell the 240 I have already and purchasing a 360 afterwards. Much easier to just pay for a second radiator.


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12685873*
> wow proof?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12686044*
> Me too!
> 
> I hit 60-70c with ht on @ 100% load. idle ~40c, what did you use for stress testing?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12686108*
> There's no way he's getting those temps. My cpu is on a loop with a sr1 120, 240, and 360 and load temps with the same vcore are 55.


Ok well then my temps must be wrong too. I have my 1055T @ 1.52 load with 1.54 IMC V and my 5870 @ 1.3v and get load temps of 57* cpu and 50* GPU with ~75* ambient...


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4;12686319*
> Ok well then my temps must be wrong too. I have my 1055T @ 1.52 load with 1.54 IMC V and my 5870 @ 1.3v and get load temps of 57* cpu and 50* GPU with ~75* ambient...


your cpu model actually is why you are seeing incorrect temps. It reads around 10c lower than it should. Gpu is right on tho.


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12686461*
> your cpu model actually is why you are seeing incorrect temps. It reads around 10c lower than it should. Gpu is right on tho.


That is an adjusted temp. it reads 47* full load and CPU temp max is 50*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4;12686606*
> That is an adjusted temp. it reads 47* full load and CPU temp max is 50*


Typical for Thubans, they aren't the heat monsters intels are. Just make sure core temp does not reach 62°C (Amd's limit for their cpu)

btw, I read core temps and usually just go by the highest temp core. Most of the time the other cores are a few notches below core 0, so my temps usually hit betwee 60-70c (highest typically is core 0) @ load (IBT, OCCT, Prime)


----------



## hello im sean

@trekman what kind of tubing is that? UV reactive? or is it the coolant? thats a sweeet looking rig, very clean. well lit


----------



## koven

x6 max 62c, comfort zone <55c

i7 9xx max 100c (?), comfort zone <80c

57c is actually pretty high for wc'd x6..

i have a 4.3ghz x6 w/ a rs240 folding around 45c, 35c core


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12688360*
> Typical for Thubans, they aren't the heat monsters intels are. Just make sure core temp does not reach 62°C (Amd's limit for their cpu)
> 
> btw, I read core temps and usually just go by the highest temp core. Most of the time the other cores are a few notches below core 0, so my temps usually hit betwee 60-70c (highest typically is core 0) @ load (IBT, OCCT, Prime)


Actually my chip's AMD max is 72 and all AMD chips are actually rated for 90+*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12688787*
> x6 max 62c, comfort zone <55c
> 
> i7 9xx max 100c (?), comfort zone <80c
> 
> 57c is actually pretty high for wc'd x6..
> 
> i have a 4.3ghz x6 w/ a rs240 folding around 45c, 35c core


see above









Also the voltage this chip needs for 320FSB, 4Ghz core, 3.2 Ghz IMC is insane 1.52 load(LLC) core and 1.54 load(LLC) IMC And that is the HIGHEST I have seen this chip even after 100 passes @ 3GB on LinX

riddle me this though.

AMD 1055T 125W version AMD max temp 62*c
AMD 1055T 95W version AMD mac temp 72*c
????


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12686078*
> why would you get a 240 and a 120 instead of a 360... the 360 fits up top perfectly..


some times it for the looks, more rads, more tubing = looks really good

also its good to go 240-> cpu-->120--> back to res, that way the warm liquid does not sit in the res, it stay there somewhat cooled


----------



## koven

i actually think the less tubing the better looking lol

and i dont know about warm liquid sitting in the res.... i always thought if the flow rate is sufficient, the temp throughout the loop eventually becomes equalized, which is why people say it doesnt really matter if you put a rad before or after a block, all that matters in loop order is res feeding pump


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4;12689232*
> .......... all AMD chips are actually rated for 90+*


Got a link?


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Got a link?


found it








http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/93...out-1090t.html


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


i actually think the less tubing the better looking lol

and i dont know about warm liquid sitting in the res.... i always thought if the flow rate is sufficient, the temp throughout the loop eventually becomes equalized, which is why people say it doesnt really matter if you put a rad before or after a block, all that matters in loop order is res feeding pump


^This is true, even across a long loop, you won't see deltas in the water of more than 5C. In most cases with high flowrates and small loops the change is more like 1-2C if noticeable at all.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

more rads... yes.... More tubing = NO!!!!

I used less than 7ft of tubing in my last build and some of that was waste, so maybe like 6ft. I had 3ft 7" left over from a 10ft roll


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12692982*
> more rads... yes.... More tubing = NO!!!!
> 
> I used less than 7ft of tubing in my last build and some of that was waste, so maybe like 6ft. I had 3ft 7" left over from a 10ft roll


So true, less tubing is better performance wise and at least subjectively it looks better.


----------



## ttaylor0024

Hey everyone, I am starting a small business with computer parts and landed a deal with XSPC. I have yet to place the first order, but I will be pricing things lower than any other store (hopefully). If you have ideas for what you may want/what is selling fast, please PM me. I am working on trying to get a partnership with EK right now too...

Thanks Everyone!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12693980*
> Hey everyone, I am starting a small business with computer parts and landed a deal with XSPC. I have yet to place the first order, but I will be pricing things lower than any other store (hopefully). If you have ideas for what you may want/what is selling fast, please PM me. I am working on trying to get a partnership with EK right now too...
> 
> Thanks Everyone!


Just don't buy EK Nickel until they've gotten things sorted out otherwise you'll have a nightmare of RMA work... Can't go wrong with XSPC pumptops and res' though. Any Rasa kits too.


----------



## Onions

get some ek 470 wb in stock cause i cant find htem a decent price anywhere


----------



## bundymania

Today it´s BLING BLING Day Fellas!







So let it shiiinnneeee...ooohhh so bright


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Show off!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

How does that 580 block perform, it doesn't look like it would peform too well?









And what's your opinion of the Shining Silver or whatever the term is, the ones with silver in them- does it actually help?


----------



## grazz1984

Just been looking through this forum.... Things have proper updated from then. I mean i dont think even cable management was a big issue when this started lol, just amazing


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i just ordered my final parts for my w/c build should arrive for next weekend


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12694009*
> Just don't buy EK Nickel until they've gotten things sorted out otherwise you'll have a nightmare of RMA work... Can't go wrong with XSPC pumptops and res' though. Any Rasa kits too.


What is up with the nickel ones? I was thinking of going that route on my next build.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12695726*
> What is up with the nickel ones? I was thinking of going that route on my next build.


the nickel plating on some of the gpu blocks is coming off, but only seems to be with those using additives or ptnuke/ deadwater


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12695742*
> the nickel plating on some of the gpu blocks is coming off, but only seems to be with those using additives or ptnuke/ deadwater


Thanks, are they having problems with the CPU blocks too? I use kill coils anyways so no big deal anyways then.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12695742*
> the nickel plating on some of the gpu blocks is coming off, but only seems to be with those using additives or ptnuke/ deadwater


Not just PTNuke, killcoil loops have had issues too. It's an issue with the EK plating, not PTNuke.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4;12691734*
> found it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/931241-interesting-information-amd-about-1090t.html


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12695850*
> Not just PTNuke, killcoil loops have had issues too. It's an issue with the EK plating, not PTNuke.


Well that just sucks, I hope they get it worked out before my next rig, the nickel looks hot! +rep for you and the F.I.S.


----------



## Oli4v

updated it a bit internally


----------



## KShirza1

ram block in!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I think it's rather hilarious that Ram blocks are finally catching on. I can't even count the amount of people that told me not to watercool my ram, and the funny thing is that even some of them have recently installed ram blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12696007*
> Well that just sucks, I hope they get it worked out before my next rig, the nickel looks hot! +rep for you and the F.I.S.


If you like nickel then take a look at koolance blocks. My mobo and gpu blocks are all koolance. Their nickel plating is top notch and definitely has "bling" factor


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i was just browsing at pictures on google of water cooled ravens, and i saw this and i think its a pretty smart way to mount the rads, can you guys show me were to get the koolance bracket thats in the middle


----------



## Qu1ckset

Well i found pictures of it, but i have no idea how he mounted the bracket to the case :S


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12697180*
> I think it's rather hilarious that Ram blocks are finally catching on. I can't even count the amount of people that told me not to watercool my ram, and the funny thing is that even some of them have recently installed ram blocks.


RAM blocks are a complete joke and not worth it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12697588*
> RAM blocks are a complete joke and not worth it


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12697588*
> RAM blocks are a complete joke and not worth it


They do look cool though







Probably not worthwhile for cooling outside of a server environment, but since when has OCN ever asked what is reasonable instead of what is possible


----------



## Tex1954

Okay, it ain't pretty and it ain't the best, but the whole build was done without any mods. I needed to be able to drive 4 monitors with DVI so dual graphic cards were a no-brainer. These Asus 460's are non-standard so I had to adapt a GPU cooler to them as you can see in the pics. Ain't the prettiest system, but works great.

Mosoon Pump/Res combo gave me a problem. It has 2 outlets and 2 inlets. It always seemed to trap bubbles in the upper outlet, so I used both outlets and "Y"ed them to the cooler input. Also, due to Ramsinks used, had to use 1/4 barbs on GPU's to clear! LOL! "Y"ed those also. It all works fine and dandy and no complaints except next time I will buy reference cards and use standard GPU blocks.

Another Problem I had was the case fans from Corsair were pitiful, so all those were replaced. The upper/rear one was turned around to push air INTO the case because the 5 radiator fans were overpowering it and nothing came out! LOL! Nice magnetic fan filter on the way for that change.

The Corsair Ram Cooler was heavy too and seemed to loosen after a while. So, to fix that, I took it apart, lost the bottom aluminum "L" piece, used standard fan screws and now it's a lot lighter and holds a lot better. This cooler was supplied as part of the 6Gig Dominator Ram Kit.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tex1954;12699014*
> Okay, it ain't pretty and it ain't the best, but the whole build was done without any mods. I needed to be able to drive 4 monitors with DVI so dual graphic cards were a no-brainer. These Asus 460's are non-standard so I had to adapt a GPU cooler to them as you can see in the pics. Ain't the prettiest system, but works great.
> 
> Mosoon Pump/Res combo gave me a problem. It has 2 outlets and 2 inlets. It always seemed to trap bubbles in the upper outlet, so I used both outlets and "Y"ed them to the cooler input. Also, due to Ramsinks used, had to use 1/4 barbs on GPU's to clear! LOL! "Y"ed those also. It all works fine and dandy and no complaints except next time I will buy reference cards and use standard GPU blocks.
> 
> Another Problem I had was the case fans from Corsair were pitiful, so all those were replaced. The upper/rear one was turned around to push air INTO the case because the 5 radiator fans were overpowering it and nothing came out! LOL! Nice magnetic fan filter on the way for that change.


Doesnt look bad at all, but the quality of those pics are so horrible lol


----------



## Tex1954

LOL! Well, Cell Phone camera isn't the best! LOL!



PS: You did mouse on them to get full size I hope.... LOL!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12697526*
> So i was just browsing at pictures on google of water cooled ravens, and i saw this and i think its a pretty smart way to mount the rads, can you guys show me were to get the koolance bracket thats in the middle


It looks like the rads are mounted to the side panels with hinges and the Koolance rad bracket is just keeping the rads from moving. Here is the rad mount

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9095/ex-rad-159/Koolance_Radiator_Mounting_Bracket_w_Quick-Release_BKT-HX001P.html?tl=c95s162b4


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


It looks like the rads are mounted to the side panels with hinges and the Koolance rad bracket is just keeping the rads from moving. Here is the rad mount

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/90...l?tl=c95s162b4


Nope the hinges is for the door to open up like a suicide door, I upload the pics when I get home.. the rads are mounted some how with that bracket


----------



## trendy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


i actually think the less tubing the better looking lol

and i dont know about warm liquid sitting in the res.... i always thought if the flow rate is sufficient, the temp throughout the loop eventually becomes equalized, which is why people say it doesnt really matter if you put a rad before or after a block, all that matters in loop order is res feeding pump


That is just not true. If the temperature throughout your entire loop equalizes your radiator isn't working. Lol 

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


some times it for the looks, more rads, more tubing = looks really good

also its good to go 240-> cpu-->120--> back to res, that way the warm liquid does not sit in the res, it stay there somewhat cooled



The 120mm radiator would sit behind the CPU and before the gpu block.... I'd go with less tubing and use one 360mm Rad if I hadn't already gotten the 240.


----------



## crunchie

The correct word would probably be 'stabilise' instead of equalise







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


The correct word would probably be 'stabilise' instead of equalise







.


nope, water temps will equalize throughout the loop. "Stable" water could be in reference to minimizing turbulence. my


----------



## KShirza1

ek dominator block in, and decided to do a little upgrading while im at it. 975 extreme to 970


----------



## mcj66106




----------



## crunchie

I tend to think of it the way I think of a car cooling system.
The water is at it's hottest when it goes through the engine block (bearing in mind that temperatures inside the combustion chamber can be as high as 2500C) and at it's coolest when it emerges from the radiator. 
The thermostat controls the flow of the coolant to ensure that the correct heat transfer takes place.
So one can say that the coolant temperature does 'stabilise' at the thermostat's setting, which is usually around 90C.


----------



## Qu1ckset

What do you guys think of danger den cases?


----------



## lohardcore




----------



## jackal22

video here    
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gwUBvQYUX4


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12702288*
> What do you guys think of danger den cases?


Tower 29 and double wide are awesome cases. Might get one for my next build


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12704457*
> Tower 29 and double wide are awesome cases. Might get one for my next build


Im liking the double wide, but there is two things i dont like about the case, which is there are so many wholes at the back of the case to let mad dust in, and the max 5.25' bays you can have is only 2 dual bays, where am i supposed to put in all the fan controllers lol. withthe dual 5.25 bays in you can put 3x 360rads and 2x 260rads thats alot of fans lol

http://dangerden.smugmug.com/gallery/9159011_cr89D#681997732_cKqQy


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I think I'm going to go with the tower 29 for my next build. Bi gtx 480 up front and 360 on the bottom. Should be enough to cool 4 way sli. I'll just stick this rig on my home theater system, sans the ssd, and leave it folding. 7x120 rad area should be enough to cool anything honestly


----------



## Triangle

I am going to get a Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24 with 140.3 for the top fans. I was wondering if the fan spacings are right for a SR-1 420..?? I am wondering this becasue the fan hole spacings on this rad (pretty much all 420,280,560 rads) are 20mm.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12705074*
> I am going to get a Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24 with 140.3 for the top fans. I was wondering if the fan spacings are right for a SR-1 420..?? I am wondering this becasue the fan hole spacings on this rad (pretty much all 420,280,560 rads) are 20mm.


You can pick which spacing you want when you order the case off there site, same with the motherboard mounts, you can get it custom for mobos like the sr-2


----------



## Triangle

I know. 20mm is not an option.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12705107*
> I know. 20mm is not an option.


Send mm a message and ask. The 15mm or 25mm option is only for 120 rads. I think the 140 rad ones are standardized placement


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy;12700756*
> That is just not true. If the temperature throughout your entire loop equalizes your radiator isn't working. Lol


^This is just not true. Temps will reach an equilibrium across the loop, they may vary slightly, but you won't see drastic differences, hence 'equilibrium'.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12701458*
> nope, water temps will equalize throughout the loop. "Stable" water could be in reference to minimizing turbulence. my


Yes, although it's technically both in equilibrium because they're all roughly the same, and stable because that same temp level isn't moving up or down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;12701635*
> ek dominator block in, and decided to do a little upgrading while im at it. 975 extreme to 970


This is such an awesome right you've got.


----------



## hammy67

my pic in Album.


----------



## jurkevicz

Add me to the LIST!

























I'll post more pics here soon of my rigs.

I've just updated my website with a couple of new pics of my recent built.
http://www.jurkevicz.com


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammy67;12713823*
> my pic in Album.


sorry, will only add you to the list if you post the pics here in the thread.


----------



## hammy67

ok


----------



## Mongol

awww, the bottom of that case looks like a mini washing machine.









Gah, I picked up a 150mm res and have to rearrange my loop...my first res was too big and I had mounted it externally. Wish me luck...off for a bit.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammy67;12716238*










HTML


----------



## hammy67

[/URL[/URL]


----------



## jax0527

Here's mine.
Picked this up at a thrift store for $25. Bought the aluminum parts (Motherboard tray, 5 1/4" bays, 3.5" bays) from mountain mods. 4 80mms on the bottom as intake, a 240 and a 360 on the back of the bottom portion as bottom exhaust. On the top, Noctua 140mm as intake with a 200mm as exhaust on the top.


----------



## hammy67

im new to this.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammy67;12716285*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL[/URL]












I think that is what you where going for...

the code for that is:



PHP:


[IMG alt="IMG-20110301-00004.jpg"]http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb457/hammy67/IMG-20110301-00004.jpg[/IMG]


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jax0527;12716289*
> Here's mine.
> Picked this up at a thrift store for $25. Bought the aluminum parts (Motherboard tray, 5 1/4" bays, 3.5" bays) from mountain mods. 4 80mms on the bottom as intake, a 240 and a 360 on the back of the bottom portion as bottom exhaust. On the top, Noctua 140mm as intake with a 200mm as exhaust on the top.
> *snip


Nice! I like this.


----------



## Rangerscott

Bawhahaha. JAX that is just too cool for school. Never would have thought of using something like that. I would recommend some filters on those fans.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jax0527;12716289*
> Here's mine.
> Picked this up at a thrift store for $25. Bought the aluminum parts (Motherboard tray, 5 1/4" bays, 3.5" bays) from mountain mods. 4 80mms on the bottom as intake, a 240 and a 360 on the back of the bottom portion as bottom exhaust. On the top, Noctua 140mm as intake with a 200mm as exhaust on the top.
> *pic*


really cool idea. very aesthetically pleasing as well


----------



## tzillian

thats awesome, makes me wanto to do something similar as well. too bad i dont know how.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;12716571*
> thats awesome, makes me wanto to do something similar as well. too bad i dont know how.


it doesn't look like it would be all that difficult. as long as you can use a drill and jig saw, you'd be fine. i was thinking about trying to build a custom case like that a while back but gave up on it because i didnt know MM sold mobo trays individually, and that's where i was having the most design problems. maybe i'll bring that project back for a htpc


----------



## B3RGY

cant wait to be in this club along with 4ghz


----------



## Qu1ckset

You Add me to the list if the h70 counts, but il have my real full w.c loop next weekend


----------



## RushMore1205

u need some cable managment asap man, nice parts though, i still cant get over the vertical thing


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Raven case


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


Raven case










Oh don't hate, clearly the funniest part is the COD:BO edition 580









Great rig though, I actually like the rotated layout and the case is pretty cool... Need to turn that H70 into a real loop though


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Worst case design ever.


----------



## jurkevicz

On Steroids!










I've had it for the past 3 years withy many changes...
With a 8800GTX









With a 285GTX:










And now it has a Radeon 5970 (it fits!!!).
But I'll post a pic soon...








My site: http://www.jurkevicz.com


----------



## Timechange01

You have money for a 5970 but not a new case?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


u need some cable managment asap man, nice parts though, i still cant get over the vertical thing


I Tried my best this case is kinda for for cable management, but when i get my new psu, il sleeve it, and it should look abit cleaner. And its not that bad its just the wires going to the video cards that look really bad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Oh don't hate, clearly the funniest part is the COD:BO edition 580









Great rig though, I actually like the rotated layout and the case is pretty cool... Need to turn that H70 into a real loop though










Whats wrong with the black ops 580, they ran out of superclocked versions so i bought the black ops one, which is superclocked . And my real loop will be installed next weekend


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


Worst case design ever.


You have spoken too soon. Take a look at the HP Pavilion


----------



## jurkevicz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timechange01*


You have money for a 5970 but not a new case?


I chose that case because I like it. Small, Compact, and it looks cool!


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jurkevicz*


I chose that case because I like it. Small, Compact, and it looks cool!










Small and compact yes. Looks cool, Im not so sure. But you can pick up some really nice small/compact cases for rather cheap. It would make the cable management so much easier


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Whats wrong with the black ops 580, they ran out of superclocked versions so i bought the black ops one, which is superclocked . And my real loop will be installed next weekend


I just am amused by the amount of branding that that game got. Can't wait to see the new loop!


----------



## jurkevicz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timechange01*


You have spoken too soon. Take a look at the HP Pavilion










Your skills are weak, looking at other people's builds and making stupid coments is what you are best of....


----------



## masustic

Not sure if the rasa 360 kit counts but here is mine. this has however got me hooked on watercooling! already looking at giving this to my friend and doing a custom loop.


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *masustic*


Not sure if the rasa 360 kit counts but here is mine. this has however got me hooked on watercooling! already looking at giving this to my friend and doing a custom loop.











Very nice and clean. Looks awesome. And yes the kit definitely counts


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *masustic*


Not sure if the rasa 360 kit counts but here is mine. this has however got me hooked on watercooling! already looking at giving this to my friend and doing a custom loop.

*pic*


The Rasa kit is essentially a custom loop that comes bundled together. I consider it custom because you can change any component at any time to your liking. Just curious, what voltage are you running through that Phenom II at 4GHz? How do your temps look?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Arksniper

Finally added a water block and compression fittings to my rig~

Also anyone know where a good place to pick up UV lights is?

Old:









New:


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Redoing my setup with new case. Unfortunatly only half my stuff came in, still waiting on tubing, kill coil, etc.








































Sorry for the horrible picture quality, I should buy a new camera instead of more computer parts. YA RIGHT


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;12722983*
> *pic*


What are those cable ties I keep seeing eveyone have wrapped around their sleeved cables?


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;12722983*
> [IMG


Beautiful!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;12723083*
> What are those cable ties I keep seeing eveyone have wrapped around their sleeved cables?


They seem to come with the Enermax Revolution power supply


----------



## sndstream

Slowly getting there. School is taking up my time so revisions will have to wait. Need to tidy up wiring, clean it all up, flush that red crap outta my res and whip out the dslr for some good pics lol.......Took shots of quad rad bottom holes/full case/and uv at night


----------



## ScurK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream;12723731*


Really looking good. What tubing is that? Primochill?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## masustic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12722109*
> The Rasa kit is essentially a custom loop that comes bundled together. I consider it custom because you can change any component at any time to your liking. Just curious, what voltage are you running through that Phenom II at 4GHz? How do your temps look?


1.45...idle 26c load after 5hrs of prime95 is 48c


----------



## amgsport

Better pics of the new loop...


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;12724744*
> Really looking good. What tubing is that? Primochill?


I think I ended up using fesser 1/2id 3/4 od uv red. I had been switching b/t tygon clear w/red dye. I think the red dye w/clear tubing looked nicer but I noticed right away my filters clogging up along with a 10c change in temps. So when I tore the loop down I scrubbed out the pump, rads, n blocks and you can still see a bit of residual. Im tearing my loop down again soon as I just ordered a full cover chipset block for my ud7 (I know it doesnt need it but hey should be one of the 1st sandy bridge rigs sporting full cover water lol........) CLoser to May I'll tear it down again and put in 2 more 570's which may cause clearance issues for my bottom rad (which is push pull so maybe I can figure something out. Maybe w/an EK bridge I can right angle the tubing and have it so the water block just fits up against the top fans on the quad). Lastly, I'll swap out my 1.65v ram for a good 2133 lower voltage kit although Ive had good luck w/Mushkin so far. I'm itching to build a watercooled m-atx sandy bridge w/in a sugo case and will have all kinds of crap left over. I have more fun building this stuff then I do using it lol.......


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Straick

My work in progress. Only problem is that I seem to find stuff usefull for the comp when in Home Depot(tubing), Harbor Freight(the tubing I used to cover my cables), and auto stores(Antifreeze for my coolant mix).
Here's the insides, up and running.









Here's my loom job, using material bought from Harbor Freight. I never did like the individual wires being loomed, especially for the ones that run to the front of the case.









Here's the back, and my OCD nature of the cabling(which I have to keep neat for my sanity).









Later on, even my hardrive cables will get loomed(instead of the current blue cover over them). Also on my todo list is some Cold Cathode UV lights.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Straick;12734266*
> My work in progress. Only problem is that I seem to find stuff usefull for the comp when in Home Depot(tubing), Harbor Freight(the tubing I used to cover my cables), and auto stores(Antifreeze for my coolant mix).
> Here's the insides, up and running.
> 
> Here's my loom job, using material bought from Harbor Freight. I never did like the individual wires being loomed, especially for the ones that run to the front of the case.


I Spy a kink


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12734350*
> I Spy a kink


I spy a bigwater system







ew

Really though been there was not bad for the first time loop, actually handled -30* temps ok till the rad and cpu block exploded


----------



## mekaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12734350*
> I Spy a kink


i see it too, not sure if it actually kink or just optical illusion, if it's kink, i don't know how he didnt notice that obvious kink


----------



## nickbaldwin86

kink or not in that picture there is also a hose that isn't plugged in, so I would worry about that more then the kink


----------



## cigarbug

That pic is a WIP pic. No pump.


----------



## cc_brandon

Here's a couple of quick pics I took of my loop. I'll post more whenever I find time to tidy it all up:thumb:


----------



## shajack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12698330*
> They do look cool though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably not worthwhile for cooling outside of a server environment, but since when has OCN ever asked what is reasonable instead of what is possible


how true...redoing my rig...if it ever get finish,ill try to post some pics ere...thinking bout mounting two rad on top of my casing:thinking:


----------



## Straick

No kink, just an optical illusion.
Only reason for no pump was that it was easier to see the tubing I used to cover the wires. The rad and CPU block are going to be getting swapped out in the next month or so, but it got me started. Only problem I've ever had out of the pump is when I didnt bother to clean it when I cleaned the loop and the bearing got a little gundge in them. Slowed it right down, but that's why I monitor speeds of the pump and fans.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Straick;12738530*
> No kink, just an optical illusion.
> Only reason for no pump was that it was easier to see the tubing I used to cover the wires. The rad and CPU block are going to be getting swapped out in the next month or so, but it got me started. Only problem I've ever had out of the pump is when I didnt bother to clean it when I cleaned the loop and the bearing got a little gundge in them. Slowed it right down, but that's why I monitor speeds of the pump and fans.


Get rid of the dye and grab coloured tube


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Get rid of the dye and grab coloured tube










it's anti freeze.


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


it's anti freeze.










will that have any negative side effects?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


will that have any negative side effects?


Just staining. It's ant-corrosive which can be useful in mixed-metal loops, but otherwise it has a worse thermal conductivity than pure distilled so most don't use it. It does negate the need for a biocide though. For the staining and performance issues I usually recommend distilled instead, but anti-freeze won't do any harm to the parts.

Edit: *Have any of the Koolance RP452x2 owners experienced increased restriction/flow problems with their new babies? I'm hearing reports that they res is very restrictive and I'd like to get to the bottom of it before I pull the trigger on one. I'm not talking just about the bleeding issues, but specifically flow restriction. Martin's testing didn't seem to show any problems which is why I'm doubly confused. Anyone with the res please feel free to comment or PM me if that's more appropriate.*


----------



## Straick

The mixed metals is actually why I'm running the antifreeze. I know that it doesn't cool as well as straight distilled water, but my flow indicator is aluminum(got it before I knew better), and it would start to corrode on the inside until I started to run the antifreeze/distilled mix. The way that the tubing clouds up actually acts as a reminder for when it's time to clean it. Nice side effect, the antifreeze mix I run is UV reactive.
If you think that it's a WIP, then take a look at the first picture. That's it up and running. I took some pictures of it while I had it down for new PSU and cleaning because some stuff gets hidden once it's all put together. If I've learned one thing about the TT kit I started with it's that the pump bearings like to bugger up over time if you don't clean them when you clean the rest of the loop. What I wouldn't give to be able to afford a new rig and better water cooling gear for it. Guess I'll have to save up for it.


----------



## Mongol

Rerouted the loop...had an externally mounted 250mm res, opted for a 150mm internal. (needed to redo anyway to add the sound card)


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Tim's looking great!


----------



## Mongol

Tim thanks you.









lol


----------



## velocd

Hm, I forgot to post photos after I went Tri-SLI a few weeks ago:


































I intended to replace the turquoise SLI bridge, but apathy set in.. and I've actually grown fond of it.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12742096*
> Just staining. It's ant-corrosive which can be useful in mixed-metal loops, but otherwise it has a worse thermal conductivity than pure distilled so most don't use it. It does negate the need for a biocide though. For the staining and performance issues I usually recommend distilled instead, but anti-freeze won't do any harm to the parts.
> 
> Edit: *Have any of the Koolance RP452x2 owners experienced increased restriction/flow problems with their new babies? I'm hearing reports that they res is very restrictive and I'd like to get to the bottom of it before I pull the trigger on one. I'm not talking just about the bleeding issues, but specifically flow restriction. Martin's testing didn't seem to show any problems which is why I'm doubly confused. Anyone with the res please feel free to comment or PM me if that's more appropriate.*


The staining isn't that big of a deal. Have used anti-freeze for 2 years now. One of our machines has had it in there for about 2-3yrs without having changed the water and the tubes are a bit cloudy but that can generally be fixed using limescale remover (tubing is cheap anyways!). Never had any negative side effects to my blocks, except for the ones with thin, restrictive channels. Would occasionally get a bit of gunk in there but it just meant I had to flush it out once ever 4 or 5 months to keep it clear. No biggie


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## KOBALT

Don't think I posted here yet... hmmm


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updaTED


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocd;12746015*
> Hm, I forgot to post photos after I went Tri-SLI a few weeks ago:
> Snip
> 
> I intended to replace the turquoise SLI bridge, but apathy set in.. and I've actually grown fond of it.


Aaaaaaamazing


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

What happened to TED?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12747492*
> What happened to TED?


he was attacked by a viscous caps lock key


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12747670*
> he was attacked by a viscous caps lock key


hahaha that's sig worthy


----------



## jprovido

cheapo watercooling


----------



## kevink82

Added a EK ram cooler and took some pics, only thing i dont but cant really see in the pics are some of my old tygon tubings are starting to have a yellow tint compare to the new ones....


----------



## dryg

Got some green tubes, cold cathodes and angled fittings. Still need to get a real camera and a bayres for the pump.


----------



## jjpctech

Here is my Rig, Only recently finished it.

Have Had the 6950's for only 4 days!!!!

Unlocked to 6970's tho




































Will be pleased to read any commenst you have and suggestions.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jjpctech*


Here is my Rig, Only recently finished it.

Have Had the 6950's for only 4 days!!!!

Unlocked to 6970's tho









*pics*
Will be pleased to read any commenst you have and suggestions.


Love the blue you're got going, that's a really great looking build!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Special Edition from Watercool.de - not in Shops yet


----------



## nickbaldwin86

MORE!
http://www.overclock.net/12759241-post58.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jjpctech

Decided to add pictures of my old watercooling setups.





































OLD Lian Li A05
WIth a PA120.3 and a PA120.2......


























OLD Qmicra VS MATX

























Best case ever = NONE









Matx Build one...

















Well thats it... My watercooling experiance through the last 6 years


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjpctech;12756082*
> Decided to add pictures of my old watercooling setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well thats it... My watercooling experiance through the last 6 years


Wow man, just wow. most of those setups are absolutely amazing.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i got the final parts for my watercooling build, man its going to take a whole day to build this thing sooo many parts lol.. im kinda mad my red anti kinks came out pink


















Just need to buy a grommet so i can drill a whole in the back of the case for the fan wires, and buy some water









Prolly be built Friday-Sat


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12757255*
> Wow man, just wow. most of those setups are absolutely amazing.


They sure are. Big fan of the Wc'd micros


----------



## ScurK

I don't think they'll look as pink when they get on the tubing.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjpctech;12756082*
> Matx Build one...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well thats it... My watercooling experiance through the last 6 years


Whats that block in the case?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12759494*
> Whats that block in the case?


zalman block - something like http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/Product_Read.asp?Idx=175

Where is the radiator?


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido;12751213*
> cheapo watercooling


Interesting case. I like it


----------



## Qu1ckset

did you guys have trouble taking apart your pump?
i have a swiftech mcp655-b and its so tight i cant unscrew it


----------



## Forsaken_id

I ordered a Caselabs M8 yesterday and can hardly wait to get it. I also have a GTX570 and block on the way. I'll post pics when I get it.

The full new build will probably be an SB 2600K, or the latest model mid-June, system this summer.

I have another 360QP (working on the timing for a trade) so I just need another pump and reservoir for separate CPU/MB and GPU loops, hopefully soon.


----------



## 161029

Go join the M8 owners club at the Case Labs section. I haven't checked if you did. That case is a beast. Enjoy it.


----------



## jjpctech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12757255*
> Wow man, just wow. most of those setups are absolutely amazing.


Thanks, That means alot








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;12757917*
> They sure are. Big fan of the Wc'd micros


I was a very big fan of MicroATX builds back then, Loved fitting as much into tight spaces as i could. I would do it again but i like the look of my TJ07 so much








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12759494*
> Whats that block in the case?


Its the Zalman 8800GTX Waterblock: http://www.rwlabs.com/article.php?cat=&id=9&pagenumber=2
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12759952*
> zalman block - something like http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/Product_Read.asp?Idx=175
> 
> Where is the radiator?


Sorry i forgot to upload a pic of the other side.

the rad was mounted of rails on the other side and the Fans were some 15mm Jobs that were on the outside of the case. It was a PA120.2 you see and was massive. Had to use it as a normal 32mm 120.2 rad didnt have enough umph.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12761773*
> did you guys have trouble taking apart your pump?
> i have a swiftech mcp655-b and its so tight i cant unscrew it


I have two, the ring is usually tight, but once you loosen it up it unthreads easily.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## nickbaldwin86

Taking more pictures on different camera settings


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

I like the fan grill...it´s from mnpctech, correct ?


----------



## Triangle

Well, it looks like this but it isn't the same.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

it is called the overkill grill, and it is from mnpctech

http://www.mnpctech.com/120mm_Overkill_Fan_Grills.html


----------



## bundymania

Nice, we need a shop here to list those products


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12766698*
> Nice, we need a shop here to list those products


he ships international


----------



## bundymania

Yeah i know but i think it´s to expensive with the shipping costs, expecially for little parts and there are maybe probs with customs. Better to buy in a local store like caseking.de or aquatuning.de


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

unless you´re planning on building a completely over the top setup those grills seem to be a little out of whack for what you get. I´ve spent around $450 on grills from mnpctech for my sigrig and I will admit they do look awesome, but I definitely would have gone with different ones or a different case if I knew how much they would end up costing. MNPCtech makes top notch stuff tho. I commend them on build quality and are always willing to make something custom if I need it. I´m glad mnpctech and frozen q are around so I can get everything made for a reasonable price. I think europe needs to send some of those little devil cases stateside and i´m pretty sure we´d be more than happy to ship over tons of mnpctech gears


----------



## koven

shoulda painted that overkill grill black or even ditched it all together.. kind of an eye sore on an otherwise beautiful build


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12768123*
> shoulda painted that overkill grill black or even ditched it all together.. kind of an eye sore on an otherwise beautiful build


You can a black anodized one, but I think the main problem is that it's 3-D and oddly shaped compared to the flat surfaces of his case. The one posted above anodized in black would be a better match.

I'm going to get some of their pro '360s', the overkills would look a little wierd especially since they don't have any 140s.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12767759*
> I think europe needs to send some of those little devil cases stateside and i´m pretty sure we´d be more than happy to ship over tons of mnpctech gears


Sidewinder is now stocking (or at least selling) LD cases...


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12768374*
> Sidewinder is now stocking (or at least selling) LD cases...


nice find! didnºt realize that. going to be hard to decide between a v8, v10 or a DD tower 29 to transfer my current build into so I can start my next one. +1


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12769664*
> nice find! didnºt realize that. going to be hard to decide between a v8, v10 or a DD tower 29 to transfer my current build into so I can start my next one. +1


Not sure which models he's stocking, but he at least has a connection to LD and he's always so approachable; if you needed a custom order he would probably add it in a shipment for you.


----------



## Forty-two

Just found this site and joined today. My current computer is a 5 year old Sony VAIO VGC-RC310G that came with a water cooled CPU. Does that get me into this club?

Anyway, that's not why I'm here. My plan for 2011 is to build my first rig, one major section a month. So far I have the case, power supply and pumps. I'm a noob and have a lot of stupid questions, so feel free to give criticism and advice.

I'm also a noob to posting, so forgive me if this doesn't work right.

Here's my current rig.










Here's my new rig plan.










And here are my fist stupid questions.

1) I noticed that most of the reservoirs have both the inlet and outlet on the bottom and just the fill port on the top. I thought it would look cool to have the inlet at the top. Any problem with that?

2) Is there any benifit to watercooling the SSDs?

3) Is it OK to cool the GPU, SDD & HDD off of a single 140mm rad?

4) Should I add water temp sensors and flow meters?

That's just the start beginning. Thanks.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

You're joking, right, 42?

Water cool an SSD? Seriously?

Cooling a GPU off a single rad? Come on, now...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forty-two;12774491*
> Just found this site and joined today. My current computer is a 5 year old Sony VAIO VGC-RC310G that came with a water cooled CPU. Does that get me into this club?
> 
> Anyway, that's not why I'm here. My plan for 2011 is to build my first rig, one major section a month. So far I have the case, power supply and pumps. I'm a noob and have a lot of stupid questions, so feel free to give criticism and advice.
> 
> I'm also a noob to posting, so forgive me if this doesn't work right.
> 
> Here's my current rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my new rig plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here are my fist stupid questions.
> 
> 1) I noticed that most of the reservoirs have both the inlet and outlet on the bottom and just the fill port on the top. I thought it would look cool to have the inlet at the top. Any problem with that?
> 
> 2) Is there any benifit to watercooling the SSDs?
> 
> 3) Is it OK to cool the GPU, SDD & HDD off of a single 140mm rad?
> 
> 4) Should I add water temp sensors and flow meters?
> 
> That's just the start beginning. Thanks.


wow, hdd water cooling, I thought the ram block I have was overkill, hdd wc takes it up a notch or two







. Skip the hdd/ssd cooling, useless.

btw, one DDC 35x is enough to power through your loop (sans hdd/ssd setup).

Just placed a few orders for the next evolutionary phase of my build


----------



## Qu1ckset

So I built my set up, and turned on the pump to find the Rez leaking ... so I tried tighting the plate which holds the pump to the Rez and I guess I screwed it to much and snapped the plate making the rez useless ...







... the pump is still fine, I put it back in its stock casing, and tried hooking up a topless water bottle and putting the hoses in put the pump won't suck , is it because its upside down?
How can i make a temporary rez ... I really want this to work and I don't have money to buy a rez right now


----------



## Dissentience

Can you set up a T-line?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Oh and I wanted to add I have only like 4inchs of extra tubing ...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12775198*
> Can you set up a T-line?


What's a t-line ?


----------



## Dissentience

An alternative to a res that cannot be built with only 4 inches of extra tubing.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12775354*
> An alternative to a res that cannot be built with only 4 inches of extra tubing.


You could use 4 inches of tubing for a T-Line, it just wouldn't hold as much water. You want to know a little secret about seal water cooling systems. THEY ARE SEALED. no water can escape from them, so you should lose zero water in any normal amount of time. So 4 inches of tubing would work if you needed it to.

on and here is a picture of T-Line for the guy asking what they are.
basicly an area where extra water can be stored and where you can fill the loop from. the small piece of tubing sticking up is the T-line.


----------



## Dissentience

I'm assuming he might need some extra tubing to get the t-line to the highest point in his loop. Who knows, I'm probably wrong.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12775436*
> I'm assuming he might need some extra tubing to get the t-line to the highest point in his loop. Who knows, I'm probably wrong.


actually it doesn't have to be the highest point in the loop, just have to be higher then the pump. fluid dynamics my friend. learn them and the universe will become much clearer.


----------



## Dissentience

There's that wrong I was talking about








Cut me a break, I'm a student of electrical engineering student, not fluid mechanics


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12775461*
> There's that wrong I was talking about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut me a break, I'm a student of electrical engineering student, not fluid mechanics


haha, neither am I. I am a network security major.


----------



## Freakn

Picked up a Raven 2 today to transplate all my gear into.

At this stage its going to be dual 360's and possibly a 120 to cool CPU, dual GPU's (tri eventually) and full cover board block.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forty-two;12774491*
> Just found this site and joined today. My current computer is a 5 year old Sony VAIO VGC-RC310G that came with a water cooled CPU. Does that get me into this club?
> 
> Anyway, that's not why I'm here. My plan for 2011 is to build my first rig, one major section a month. So far I have the case, power supply and pumps. I'm a noob and have a lot of stupid questions, so feel free to give criticism and advice.
> 
> 1) I noticed that most of the reservoirs have both the inlet and outlet on the bottom and just the fill port on the top. I thought it would look cool to have the inlet at the top. Any problem with that?
> 2) Is there any benifit to watercooling the SSDs?
> 3) Is it OK to cool the GPU, SDD & HDD off of a single 140mm rad?
> 4) Should I add water temp sensors and flow meters?



No problem, you may get a waterfall noise, but you can solve that easily.
No benefit to cooling SSDs at all, watercooling them or mechanical drives is overkill of epic proportions.
GPU can survive on a 140 if it's thick and it's a small GPU. Otherwise I'd chain the the 360 and 140 together and combine both CPU and GPU in one loop.
You certainly can add temp sensors and flow meters but they're not critical.
From one 800D owner to another, you won't be able to put a 140 rad on the inside of the back like you have it drawn, there isn't enough room side to side (the rad is >140mm wide and the area is barely 140mm wide). 120 rad or mount the 140 on the false-floor.

Also, you may not have room to put both those res' next to each other and with the motherboard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12775212*
> What's a t-line ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12775354*
> An alternative to a res that cannot *can easily* be built with only 4 inches of extra tubing.


^Fixed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12775444*
> actually it doesn't have to be the highest point in the loop, just have to be higher then the pump. fluid dynamics my friend. learn them and the universe will become much clearer.


No need to be rude









T-line or a res doesn't need to be the highest point, it just needs a point higher than the flow at that point so that air can migrate up and out of the flow. I run ~5" T in my loop and it works fine, you just need to keep an eye on it when bleeding and filling, but once the loop is full it works fine.

The pump couldn't pull the water out of the bottle because of the airlock, but if you seealed the tube into the bottle and could gravity-feed the pump then the bottle would work as a res.


----------



## Qu1ckset

How long does it usually take for the bubbles to work its way out of the system? ( BTW I fixed the rez


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i did an hour leak test and i booted but im not satisfied with my 580 temps... gpu1: 56C, gpu2: 52C, and my cpu is 27C.
My 580s have the Black Ice Gtx 360 Gen Two rad and My i7 950 has the Black Ice Gtx 120 Gen Two and yes there on the same loop, and both rads have ap15s in push pull setups.


----------



## Mongol

It can take a couple hours to a couple days to fully bleed a loop.

Those 580 temps on load? If so, just a bit high, but your ambient air temp will affect it somewhat. What fans are you usning on the black ice rads?


----------



## Qu1ckset

My idle temps have jumped to 67c&63 on idle, do you think the air bubbles are afecting the temps?


----------



## Qu1ckset

and when bleeding the loop to i keep the rez open or closed?


----------



## Mongol

Res open...will help alot.

If that's idle, it could be air...or improperly seated blocks, or the flow is blocked off to the cards.
(I'm guessing it's improper flow)

Pictures of the loop asap please.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12779137*
> So i did an hour leak test and i booted but im not satisfied with my 580 temps... gpu1: 56C, gpu2: 52C, and my cpu is 27C.
> My 580s have the Black Ice Gtx 360 Gen Two rad and My i7 950 has the Black Ice Gtx 120 Gen Two and yes there on the same loop, and both rads have ap15s in push pull setups.


What is your loop order? Temps seem a bit high on your 580 and low on your 950. Could still be bleeding, bubbles can take several days to full bleed. I suspect it could be more of a bad mount/not enough pressure on the 580 blocks to the cards. Are the GPUs in series or parallel?


----------



## Qu1ckset

My Loop Order is Rez>360Rad>580s with Ek Parallel Bridge>120Rad>Cpu>Rez with push/pull ap15s
My Idle Temps are now 73C & 67C on idle for the 580s, am just going to assume its the air bubbles, and gunna shut it down, and let the pump run with the rez open because i can here the bubble, i will still be able to check this thread via my smart phone.
Here are the pics


----------



## Triangle

Cable management time?


----------



## Mongol

Must be air...only other thing I can think of is (not sure if it matters) but I thought the output on the bridge had to be opposite to the input. (in from bottom right, out from top left)

Try shutting the pump off and turning it on a few times as you bleed the loop. (on/run for 20 seconds, off 20 seconds, on) and gently rock the case.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Sigh I think I screwed up on the bridge, after looking at the instructions it says to do my setup on a serial setup , and for parallel I have to move the outlet port up...


----------



## Mongol

Yeah, it seems like the water is just rushing past the cards with only a trickle getting to them.


----------



## solar0987

Update got card cooled white tubing ran gpu power cables ran right.And getting AWESOME TEMPS!!!


----------



## Mongol

lol @ cadillac badge!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Well this is going to be real hard , one bad cut and I'm sol for a couple weeks cuz i have no extra tubing ... anyways how do I drain the loop ?

Pull the rez out and unhook one tube , put it in a bowl and unhook the second and blow into it till all the water is out ?


----------



## Mongol

well, safest spot as far as I can see would be to undo a connection to the rad out back and let it drain out from there into a bucket or something, and you can tilit it backwards to aid with draining.

carefully. make sure reservior is closed at first.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forty-two;12774491*
> Just found this site and joined today. My current computer is a 5 year old Sony VAIO VGC-RC310G that came with a water cooled CPU. Does that get me into this club?
> 
> Anyway, that's not why I'm here. My plan for 2011 is to build my first rig, one major section a month. So far I have the case, power supply and pumps. I'm a noob and have a lot of stupid questions, so feel free to give criticism and advice.
> 
> I'm also a noob to posting, so forgive me if this doesn't work right.
> 
> Here's my current rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my new rig plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here are my fist stupid questions.
> 
> 1) I noticed that most of the reservoirs have both the inlet and outlet on the bottom and just the fill port on the top. I thought it would look cool to have the inlet at the top. Any problem with that?
> 
> 2) Is there any benifit to watercooling the SSDs?
> 
> 3) Is it OK to cool the GPU, SDD & HDD off of a single 140mm rad?
> 
> 4) Should I add water temp sensors and flow meters?
> 
> That's just the start beginning. Thanks.


im failing to see the watercooling in that first picture, but meh

1. as long as u fill it 100% full so the pump gets the water, i have mine setup like that, but i have an EK Multi-option adnvanced so it has the tubes that come down 1/2 way inside for water.
2. wcing a ssd? ur joking right?
3. sure u can, but your temps will be bad, prob worse then air cooling.
4. nah


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12779662*
> lol @ cadillac badge!


Took it off the hat that came with my car








thought it was appropriate seeing as how i named my rig the lac.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ok so I got it drained , and I switched the outlet port on the ek bridge with out having to cut anything.
I gained two things from doing this:

1. When I drained the water it looked abit dirty, I guess I didn't clean the rads good enough so my look got a second since .
2. By draining the loop and refilling it I noticed there is way less bubbles in the loop, so the bleeding process shouldn't take long









I'm going to turn on my computer soon to check the temps of my 580s


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


Res open...will help alot.


No! Res does not need to be open and you risk spilling liquid out... Closed loop means the water will change position with the air and the level in the res will drop as the air bleeds out. There is no difference with the top open or closed.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Sigh I think I screwed up on the bridge, after looking at the instructions it says to do my setup on a serial setup , and for parallel I have to move the outlet port up...


That's your problem. Bridge needs to be fed using the other top port given your choice of outlet.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Well this is going to be real hard , one bad cut and I'm sol for a couple weeks cuz i have no extra tubing ... anyways how do I drain the loop ?

Pull the rez out and unhook one tube , put it in a bowl and unhook the second and blow into it till all the water is out ?


Pull the tube at the GPU outlet, and then just switch the GPU inlet tube to the next port. There's no need to drain the whole loop since you're only switching the one tube to the next port. Shouldn't even need to make a new piece of tubing.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Sry for double post


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


No! Res does not need to be open and you risk spilling liquid out... Closed loop means the water will change position with the air and the level in the res will drop as the air bleeds out. There is no difference with the top open or closed.

That's your problem. Bridge needs to be fed using the other top port given your choice of outlet.

Pull the tube at the GPU outlet, and then just switch the GPU inlet tube to the next port. There's no need to drain the whole loop since you're only switching the one tube to the next port. Shouldn't even need to make a new piece of tubing.


Read ny previous post , I finished already


----------



## RushMore1205

sorry guys just had to throw these up here,

MOD OF THE MONTH WINNER
|
\\/


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12780252*
> Read ny previous post , I finished already


We posted at the same time







Glad you got it figured out!


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Took it off the hat that came with my car








thought it was appropriate seeing as how i named my rig the lac.


Ahh...makes sense now.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12780170*
> No! Res does not need to be open and you risk spilling liquid out... Closed loop means the water will change position with the air and the level in the res will drop as the air bleeds out. There is no difference with the top open or closed.
> 
> .


Ehhh....I bled open (wasn't completely full) and it seemed like more air was escaping...didn't spill. Then again, I forget he has a bay res.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So its up and running Gpu temps: 31C & 31C, and my Cpu 27C, im going to do some gaming and benching and see what i get on load.. so far very happy with results, and i gotta say the ek sli bridge is soooo sexy!, i took out my cathodes because they were in the way, prolly going to get ledz instead, do they make uv ledz?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


Ehhh....I bled open (wasn't completely full) and it seemed like more air was escaping...didn't spill. Then again, I forget he has a bay res.










I was watching it anyways, and it did seem like more air as coming out to me...
Man i just looked at my room.... sigh... watta mess lol


----------



## GoodInk

There could be something to this lid off thing if you are bleeding it with the PC on. If you leave the lid on as the water heats up it will create pressure from the water and air expanding and possably pushing the air bubbles against what ever it is stuck on. Leaving the cap off would allow for no pressure to build up from the water expanding as it heats up. But the same bubbles will bleed out the loop either way.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


sorry guys just had to throw these up here,

MOD OF THE MONTH WINNER
|
\\/










Smexy


----------



## Mongol

There are uv leds...they look like mine but in uv.

Good job on that fix qu1ck...welcome to water.


----------



## Qu1ckset

When the loop is fully bleeded , does it stay quiet ? , because mine gets nex to silent, then all you hears bubbles going threw the pump... its actually more annoying then a full speed video card fan...

After playing games and doing some benchmarks the hottest I got the video card to was 47C








Much better then peaking at 100C with 100% fan lol


----------



## Mongol

When it's fully bled, all you'll hear is fans...and maybe the pump.

I'm completely bled afaik...all I hear is my fans.


----------



## GoodInk

Well as long as you are not sucking air in to the pump it should be quite.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I went to sleep for a couple hours and woke up and its so quiet now.. once and awhile i will hear bubbles for a couple seconds thats about it.... im just going to check on that one tube i moved on the ek bridge it kinda looks funny (like its coming off, but it might just look like that because of how it connected)


----------



## GoodInk

That would not be a good thing.


----------



## Qu1ckset

so i checked and its on and aint coming off unless i pulled on it with abit of force... to be honest im not to impressed with the compression fittings i have..


----------



## Qu1ckset

Like i agree it aint gunna leak but why do the normal fittings have a long nipple for??.. but i guess everything cant be perfect i just have to be careful i guess


----------



## Qu1ckset

I Don't know i guess you can call me paranoid this is a diagram of how my tube is sitting on my compression fitting, and i obviously have the part that threads on over the tube, is this ok? wound it be better to use a different fitting or am i just being paranoid?


----------



## GoodInk

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but my under standing is that the tubing needs to be flush and not angled/miss alined. Plus it should not pull off at all with in reason.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12784111*
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but my under standing is that the tubing needs to be flush and not angled/miss alined. Plus it should not pull off at all with in reason.


Correct.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12784111*
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but my under standing is that the tubing needs to be flush and not angled/miss alined. Plus it should not pull off at all with in reason.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;12784198*
> Correct.


Well then i dont know what to do then.. because i un thread it push it back all the way and when im threading the peace back on it slids just a little bit because of stress on the tube and thats the best i can get it.. i try again.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So the first pic is what i was talking about, and in the second i pushed it in and screwed it back on... so what are your thoughts?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Just flush the tubing onto the fitting then thumb screw the clamp on tight. That thing will never come off unless you unclamp it.


----------



## GoodInk

What he said, and if you can do that then you need a longer tube or reroute it so there isn't so much pressure on it, and if the tubing is short then it is pulling on your GPU and what ever the other end connects to, putting unneeded strain on you components and motherboard.


----------



## Triangle

Yes, What way stated above.^^^

If it doesn't work, then your tubing is too short. If it is too short, then it is pulling on other components.

Have you ever thought of putting a 45° fitting there maybe..??

Good luck.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

yea, that tube needs to sit more flush than that... it probably wouldn't leak, but it wouldn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling...

fun fact: when compression fittings are properly attached to the tubing the tubing will rip before it pulls out of the fitting.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12785657*
> updated
> 
> yea, that tube needs to sit more flush than that... it probably wouldn't leak, but it wouldn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling...
> 
> fun fact: when compression fittings are properly attached to the tubing the tubing will rip before it pulls out of the fitting.


I am assuming you know this from experience?


----------



## wermad

I had a compression that grabbed the threads incorrectly, the tube easily pulled out, luckily I was breaking down my rig and had drained the loop when it happened. The top part was useless, but the bottom part is still good. going to the spare parts bin.


----------



## 161029

Explains why people recommended barbs and clamps to me.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12783495*
> I went to sleep for a couple hours and woke up and its so quiet now.. once and awhile i will hear bubbles for a couple seconds thats about it.... im just going to check on that one tube i moved on the ek bridge it kinda looks funny (like its coming off, but it might just look like that because of how it connected)


is it sucking a vortex in your res? and every so often the vortex reaches the outlet tube sending a few bubbles through the loop?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12785932*
> I am assuming you know this from experience?


I can believe that to be true. Of course in a real use situation, I would think that the component the fitting is attached to would be extremely damaged before the tubing would rip.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12788666*
> Explains why people recommended barbs and clamps to me.


What does? People can make mistakes with barbs/clamps just as well as compressions.


----------



## 161029

Some recommended barbs because they were more secure if you did it right which seems pretty simple to me.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12788883*
> Some recommended barbs because they were more secure if you did it right which seems pretty simple to me.


I think [know] combining 7/16's tubing on 1/2" barbs is a nice secure setup. Either is secure if it's done right though







.


----------



## 161029

Thanks.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12779406*
> My Loop Order is Rez>360Rad>580s with Ek Parallel Bridge>120Rad>Cpu>Rez with push/pull ap15s
> My Idle Temps are now 73C & 67C on idle for the 580s, am just going to assume its the air bubbles, and gunna shut it down, and let the pump run with the rez open because i can here the bubble, i will still be able to check this thread via my smart phone.
> Here are the pics


I got the same case..

Loop is nice..but need more improvement..

Red tubing is sexy though...

U can take out the 120 on top and take that and put it in the lower right or take out 1 of the 180 fans and hide the 120 rad there..it will be more cleaner look....just a word of advice thats all.. =)


----------



## pyrodex

Here are pictures of my first completed water cooling build.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## trimak

Yay just got my XSPC RASA RX360 installed ******* WOOT!

What next guys any ideas? my overclock isn't the most stable I get occasional errors but i'm not sure what to do about it and is there anything else I should be cooling in order to get stability? mosfets?


----------



## wasserkuhlung

Hello! Its my first time here!

Here are some pictures of my watercooling journey over the past year.

Heres my first attempt with a Eheim Fishtank pump + open tupperware and a EK 120mm rad.










and this was when i saved up enough to buy a Swiftech MCP655 and a 1st gen Swiftech res!










and this was when i tried out Feser One Acid Green coolant and upgraded to a Swiftech MCR320 triple rad. (its mounted in the rear of the casing) .










Here it is when i flushed after 3-4 months on Feser one and filled it with distilled water . Apparently F1 coolant didnt gunk for me!


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trimak;12789504*
> Yay just got my XSPC RASA RX360 installed ******* WOOT!
> 
> What next guys any ideas? my overclock isn't the most stable I get occasional errors but i'm not sure what to do about it and is there anything else I should be cooling in order to get stability? mosfets?


If you don't have a heatsink on them i wouldn't overclock that board.
Them vrm's/mosfets will get so hot they will actually blister your finger.....
I know from exp lol
I have a enzotech mst-88 on then and a 80 mm fan blowing over that.


----------



## loki_reborn

Moved all my parts over into a new case.

From-










Moving to -




























Looking much better. I will change the tubing layout next month when I get a load of 90 fittings.


----------



## 161029

That looks a lot better.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn;12790176*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking much better. I will change the tubing layout next month when I get a load of 90 fittings.


How are your GPU temps? I had issues with a setup like that in the past, you should have the inlet and outlet on different cards in a parallel setup. I just switched to series; it was easier to route and performs well.If your temps are ok then you might be fine, but I'd keep an eye on them.


----------



## 161029

I agree. Probably *CPU > Radiator > GPU 1 > GPU 2 > Radiator > GPU 2 > GPU 1 > Radiator > Reservoir > Pump > CPU* would be a better setup.


----------



## loki_reborn

Absolutely no problems with temps in this setup. Both cards idle around 32 degrees and never go over 40 even when playing stuff maxed out.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HybridCore*


I agree. Probably *CPU > Radiator > GPU 1 > GPU 2 > Radiator > GPU 2 > GPU 1 > Radiator > Reservoir > Pump > CPU* would be a better setup.










why/how run through the GPUs twice?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loki_reborn*


Absolutely no problems with temps in this setup. Both cards idle around 32 degrees and never go over 40 even when playing stuff maxed out.


That's interesting, I had issues with the flowrate to one of the cards being terrible and temps being ridiculous on the one card. Glad it works for you though!


----------



## 161029

The water went around going from the top gpu to the bottom and then back through the top. He could put a rad somewhere at the bottom or something and loop the tube back through the GPU's again. That's what it looks like.


----------



## loki_reborn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HybridCore*


The water went around going from the top gpu to the bottom and then back through the top. He could put a rad somewhere at the bottom or something and loop the tube back through the GPU's again. That's what it looks like.


Thats not quite how it works, they are in parallel.

Similar to using an EK bridge.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Finally finish my rig updates. Painted case, went sli and liken it!








Gpu's idle at 29c / 27c, CPU idle 24c / Load 41c overclocked at 4.2


----------



## OrangeSunday

Good looking systems guys!


----------



## loki_reborn

Cheers,

Yours is looking nice nyghtrider. Loving the UV antikink


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HybridCore*


The water went around going from the top gpu to the bottom and then back through the top. He could put a rad somewhere at the bottom or something and loop the tube back through the GPU's again. That's what it looks like.


The problem with that (and why I was concerned about his current setup) is that the restriction of the block itself could cause the water to shoot straight through the connector/manifold part of the block without ever circulating through the block or weakly circulating. That's why cards generally have an outlet and inlet on separate cards and opposite sides in a parallel setup.


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


The problem with that (and why I was concerned about his current setup) is that the restriction of the block itself could cause the water to shoot straight through the connector/manifold part of the block without ever circulating through the block or weakly circulating. That's why cards generally have an outlet and inlet on separate cards and opposite sides in a parallel setup.


the water flow will self equalize as long as the restriction is the same in both blocks. So there is not need for the inlet and outlet to be on different cards.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4;12793622*
> the water flow will self equalize as long as the restriction is the same in both blocks. So there is not need for the inlet and outlet to be on different cards.


There is further restriction between the turbulence of the first card and second, and the additional tubing connecting them, so it's not an ideal system. I'm glad it's worked for him but it didn't for me. It is possible to get stagnation in the first card with the water passing through the top of the first card without circulating and then only circulating through the second card and passing back through the top of the second. Likewise the scenario can be mirrored such that the second card stagnates if the water doesn't make it that far. Generally the easiest way to ensure bulletproof operation in parallel is to have the inlet and outlet on different cards because it forces the flow to even out.


----------



## topog_z

Sigh at all these pictures if only i had one of those rigs


----------



## Bear907

Hey all

I'll be joining the water cooling club soon. I've started a new build and will be doing a custom single loop for cpu and 2 gpus. Please take a look at the work log and let me know what you think.

Fire & Ice Work Log

Thanks!


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;12791872*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally finish my rig updates. Painted case, went sli and liken it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gpu's idle at 29c / 27c, CPU idle 24c / Load 41c overclocked at 4.2


These are Gigabyte GTX460? that blocks are?


----------



## topog_z

Why do people watercool the southbridge?


----------



## Triangle

Because they can?
Bling?
Some get HOT?


----------



## KillerBeaz

it gets hot, on some boards

and it looks jazzy


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;12793821*
> These are Gigabyte GTX460? that blocks are?


theyre the sparkle GTX 460

http://http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11613/ex-blc-808/Koolance_VID-NX460_NVIDIA_GTX_460_Liquid_Cooling_Block_No_Fittings_.html?tl=g30c311s1285[/URL]


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn;12793319*
> Cheers,
> 
> Yours is looking nice nyghtrider. Loving the UV antikink


Thanks


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn;12790176*
> Moved all my parts over into a new case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking much better. I will change the tubing layout next month when I get a load of 90 fittings.


Diet coke is bad for you, full of artificial sweetners, lucky your rig is sweet enough!!


----------



## loki_reborn

Cheers man,

Tell me about it,

I work for Coca-cola.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i ordered this http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_141&products_id=1160 to fix my problem, it prolly wont come off but you can never be to safe


----------



## Qu1ckset

Il Post pictures of my rig tmr


----------



## Triangle

Good luck.


----------



## Mongol

The riser pipe just broke off in my reservoir...opened up and removed it but now the swirly action is gone.


----------



## etfreind

nice







thread ..


----------



## etfreind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;12791872*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally finish my rig updates. Painted case, went sli and liken it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gpu's idle at 29c / 27c, CPU idle 24c / Load 41c overclocked at 4.2


hey actually i am noob, looking into water cooling; can u tell me how can i monitor water temperature (senser) .. like what kinda of hardware and software

thanks


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *etfreind;12796805*
> hey actually i am noob, looking into water cooling; can u tell me how can i monitor water temperature (senser) .. like what kinda of hardware and software
> 
> thanks


Download SpeedFan


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12794981*
> The riser pipe just broke off in my reservoir...opened up and removed it but now the swirly action is gone.










Pics? How did that break...?


----------



## PixelFreakz

Okay. I have a question. I know I'm dreaming lol.. but Since I have never done watercooling before and have really never seen someone do a watercooling setup, tell me would the following work? I'm a little worried about the pump giving out... Anyway, here is my idea. I'm wondering if I have the execution down lol.

Using 3/8ID with barbs. setup will look like this: (parts are all small due to lack of room in my case. And I want to keep it the way it is.)

3.5" bay res >> Swiftec MCP350 Water pump >> Push pull 120mm rad #1 >> Push Pull 120mm rad #2 >> CPU plate >> 80mm rad >> 6990 waterblock >> back to 3.5" reservoir.

Anyone see any potential problems? Or is that ok?


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12797315*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics? How did that break...?


Just popped off...no breaks on it as far as i saw.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PixelFreakz;12799163*
> Okay. I have a question. I know I'm dreaming lol.. but Since I have never done watercooling before and have really never seen someone do a watercooling setup, tell me would the following work? I'm a little worried about the pump giving out... Anyway, here is my idea. I'm wondering if I have the execution down lol.
> 
> Using 3/8ID with barbs. setup will look like this: (parts are all small due to lack of room in my case. And I want to keep it the way it is.)
> 
> 3.5" bay res >> Swiftec MCP350 Water pump >> Push pull 120mm rad #1 >> Push Pull 120mm rad #2 >> CPU plate >> 80mm rad >> 6990 waterblock >> back to 3.5" reservoir.
> 
> Anyone see any potential problems? Or is that ok?


that will work, but the 6990 will rape 2x120 and an 80 rad i would want that thing on a tripple atleast for best temps esp if u ever want to add anything else int he loop


----------



## alanpsk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*



























Finally finish my rig updates. Painted case, went sli and liken it!








Gpu's idle at 29c / 27c, CPU idle 24c / Load 41c overclocked at 4.2


Very nice Window mod and paint job on the Haf X







!! + 1 rep bud !!









Care to share how you did it ??

Thanks man


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *etfreind;12796805*
> hey actually i am noob, looking into water cooling; can u tell me how can i monitor water temperature (senser) .. like what kinda of hardware and software
> 
> thanks


I use Aida64 Extreme edition to moniter everything from core temps to voltage and clocks. I also put in the water temp moniter that connects to my res and its really accurate. But theres alot of programs out there to choose from, so like one program while other use another, its kinda just personal prefernce. I tried a couple out and found i liked Aida.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanpsk;12800495*
> Very nice Window mod and paint job on the Haf X:thumbsups!! + 1 rep bud !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Care to share how you did it ??
> 
> Thanks man


The paint job was initially suppose to be a powder coat job, but for some reason it wouldnt take to the case well ( tried multiple times ). So i just resandblaster and used two coats of high end auto paint followed by two coats of clear. The window kit i got from frozencpu and it came with a patern, so i justed used a dremel to cut it out ( took a while cause i didnt wanna botch it ).


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PixelFreakz*


Okay. I have a question. I know I'm dreaming lol.. but Since I have never done watercooling before and have really never seen someone do a watercooling setup, tell me would the following work? I'm a little worried about the pump giving out... Anyway, here is my idea. I'm wondering if I have the execution down lol.

Using 3/8ID with barbs. setup will look like this: (parts are all small due to lack of room in my case. And I want to keep it the way it is.)

3.5" bay res >> Swiftec MCP350 Water pump >> Push pull 120mm rad #1 >> Push Pull 120mm rad #2 >> CPU plate >> 80mm rad >> 6990 waterblock >> back to 3.5" reservoir.

Anyone see any potential problems? Or is that ok?


Hey man after looking at you case I notice there is not much room, but after looking hard I noticed you can fit a 120 rad on the back exhaust port and then mount a 240rad on the top, or even a 360 on the top if you don't mind the over hang on the back, you would get way better temps


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey would it make a difference to my cpu temperature if I got rid of my 360, 120 rad and just got a 480?

New loop:
Rez>480Rad>Gpu1&Gpu2>Cpu>Rez

Old loop:
Rez>360Rad>Gpu1&Gpu2>120Rad>Cpu>Rez

What would be better ?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Hey would it make a difference to my cpu temperature if I got rid of my 360, 120 rad and just got a 480?

New loop:
Rez>480Rad>Gpu1&Gpu2>Cpu>Rez

Old loop:
Rez>360Rad>Gpu1&Gpu2>120Rad>Cpu>Rez

What would be better ?


Not much difference, if you were doing the second one though I'd swicth the 120 and 360 so that the CPU got cooler water, the 120 can do more percentage-wise of the CPU heat than it can of the GPU heat. You might see slightly better temps (<5C, more likely <2C drops with the new configuration). The only advantage to a 480 would be if you got improved airflow because of it.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Hey would it make a difference to my cpu temperature if I got rid of my 360, 120 rad and just got a 480?

New loop:
Rez>480Rad>Gpu1&Gpu2>Cpu>Rez

Old loop:
Rez>360Rad>Gpu1&Gpu2>120Rad>Cpu>Rez

What would be better ?


would probably have less restriction which in tern can make temps better as the flow is higher


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Not much difference, if you were doing the second one though I'd swicth the 120 and 360 so that the CPU got cooler water, the 120 can do more percentage-wise of the CPU heat than it can of the GPU heat. You might see slightly better temps (<5C, more likely <2C drops with the new configuration). The only advantage to a 480 would be if you got improved airflow because of it.


It would be much harder to switch the 360 and 120 around in the loop, and the reason for getting the 480rad would be to make it cleaner and easier , but I just dont want the overall temps to be a lot worse, if its only a 1C-2C I don't care


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


It would be much harder to switch the 360 and 120 around in the loop, and the reason for getting the 480rad would be to make it cleaner and easier , but I just dont want the overall temps to be a lot worse, if its only a 1C-2C I don't care


I'd just leave it, I don't think the temps will be worth the hassle and price of the switch.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Anyone know the best place to have custom cases made other than mountain mods? Thinking either all acrylic or aluminum, but twice as thick as what mm offers. Trying to get the case and wc system ready for my next major rig build in November. Thinking about something ascension style, but slightly bigger and able to house 10x 480 rads, 2 psus, 2x 5.25 bays, and a htpx mobo tray. No overkill speech plz.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Anyone know the best place to have custom cases made other than mountain mods? Thinking either all acrylic or aluminum, but twice as thick as what mm offers. Trying to get the case and wc system ready for my next major rig build in November. Thinking about something ascension style, but slightly bigger and able to house 10x 480 rads, 2 psus, 2x 5.25 bays, and a htpx mobo tray. No overkill speech plz.


I'd PM FrozenQ or email him at [email protected]. He's got the laser cutter and CAD setup and could probably do the custom work. I'd get on it though, a project like that might take him awhile given all the other things he's currently making. Definitely would be my first stop. Otherwise I'd talk to CyberDruid for acrylic work if FQ isn't available/interested/your preference. Both obviously do awesome work. CD is in Virginia though so that might be better for you? FrozenQ is in PA.


----------



## gdawg33

Case Labs is going to release a case that can hold up to 6 560 rads. That is the biggest production case that I know of.


----------



## RushMore1205

lol 10x 480 rads, now thats a lot


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


I'd PM FrozenQ or email him at [email protected]. He's got the laser cutter and CAD setup and could probably do the custom work. I'd get on it though, a project like that might take him awhile given all the other things he's currently making. Definitely would be my first stop. Otherwise I'd talk to CyberDruid for acrylic work if FQ isn't available/interested/your preference. Both obviously do awesome work. CD is in Virginia though so that might be better for you? FrozenQ is in PA.


I thought about frozen q, he does great work. There was someone who couldn't make a case fir another member bc of the cutter, maybe it was mm or frozen q, but not sure so I'll inquire about both. I think 6-7 months is more than enough time. Worst comes to worst I have a local shop do it and just use mm mobo tray. I should be finishing up my cad drawing this week since not much left to do with only 3 classes. Cd and fq are both convenient tho since I have friends nearby that can just grab it for me and can get it from them when we meet up.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12803450*
> I thought about frozen q, he does great work. There was someone who couldn't make a case fir another member bc of the cutter, maybe it was mm or frozen q, but not sure so I'll inquire about both. I think 6-7 months is more than enough time. Worst comes to worst I have a local shop do it and just use mm mobo tray. I should be finishing up my cad drawing this week since not much left to do with only 3 classes. Cd and fq are both convenient tho since I have friends nearby that can just grab it for me and can get it from them when we meet up.


This build is going to be amazing haha. I'd definitely look at FQ and CD.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Can Some one find my all black quick disconnects, i cant seem to find any


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12803695*
> This build is going to be amazing haha. I'd definitely look at FQ and CD.


Just planning to make my sigrig look like a no effort budget box by comparison


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12805393*
> Just planning to make my sigrig look like a no effort budget box by comparison


Certainly sounds that way... 7x 480 is going to be massive; are you running chillers or TECs that will need that much cooling power? You might also contact your buddy Bill Owen at MNPCTech, but I suspect FQ or CD will be your best options.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12805439*
> Certainly sounds that way... 7x 480 is going to be massive; are you running chillers or TECs that will need that much cooling power? You might also contact your buddy Bill Owen at MNPCTech, but I suspect FQ or CD will be your best options.


Already did about it. Doesn't have the right machine sadly. Planning every component on it's own 480 rad including mobo and 2 for the CPU, so 7 loops total all ran by 355s and most using dd rad reses


----------



## koven

^ are you doing it for folding or..? damn electricity in KY must be dirt cheap lol..


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12805939*
> ^ are you doing it for folding or..? damn electricity in KY must be dirt cheap lol..


folding and gaming, current sig rig will be used for folding as well and as a htpc. electricity is super cheap here. only 6.7cents per kwh, I think like 30% of what you all pay in cali


----------



## Modus

for a CPU+GPU configuration, would a single 2x120MM rad be enough? both card will be slightly overclocked.


----------



## Dissentience

Things might get a little too toasty with just a 240, especially if your GPU puts out lots of heat like, say, a GTX400 series


----------



## Modus

I thought so...looks like I'll have to go for 3x120mm rad. Might be difficult to fit it in my PC-A05NB.

Pump and res wise, I was looking at those tube res with the pump attached to the base. would you know the model name of anything similar to that?


----------



## pcnoob1

just a update


----------



## KShirza1

Some interior lighting...


----------



## ezveedub

First post of my current system in this thread. XSPC RASA RX360 system running a DDC pump on CPU with 2 EK 6870 full blocks on parallel bridge. Not finished last night and running perfectly thus far.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcnoob1;12807356*
> just a update


Time for gpu blocks and a bridge to tie em together









Looking awesome btw


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12805513*
> Already did about it. Doesn't have the right machine sadly. Planning every component on it's own 480 rad including mobo and 2 for the CPU, so 7 loops total all ran by 355s and most using dd rad reses


That literally redefines overkill







Glad you're using that cheap electricity though!

Your level of overkill performance staggers frightens inspires me...


----------



## shadow02

My old and my current builds progressively getting less plug-n-play as I learn


----------



## FuzzDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;12807877*
> Some interior lighting...


Similar to my 840...did you have the same trouble I did cramming the 240 in front of the HD bays? I had to jam mine in.


----------



## ScurK

@ FD
How come it wouldn't just fit in there?


----------



## FuzzDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;12812143*
> @ FD
> How come it wouldn't just fit in there?


The EK 240 radiator was maybe 1/4" too tall so as I pushed it in it bowed the bottom of the case down a tad. I removed the radiator and noticed it had even scratched some paint off the bottom of the radiator...it's so tight I don't really need any screws to hold it in place.

Now that I think about it...I'll need to put something between the copper radiator and the aluminum case to preclude the two non-similar metals reacting deal (correct?).


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12801325*
> It would be much harder to switch the 360 and 120 around in the loop, and the reason for getting the 480rad would be to make it cleaner and easier , but I just dont want the overall temps to be a lot worse, if its only a 1C-2C I don't care


not really, if you turned your 120 around, go from pump res to that, then loop to your bridge, then out to your 360, back into your cpu, and from the prev shotz you would half the amount of tubing used too, but really your temps arent bad are they? why fix what aint broken imo?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12812263*
> not really, if you turned your 120 around, go from pump res to that, then loop to your bridge, then out to your 360, back into your cpu, and from the prev shotz you would half the amount of tubing used too, but really your temps arent bad are they? why fix what aint broken imo?


Ya my temps are really good, and Ive all ready bought a 45 degree angle to fix the problem I have with the ek bridge , I only bought one to see how it works , so I can decide if to buy more or get rotation 45 degree fittings, I'm not really liking all the tubing everywhere so i want to get a Bunch to clean it up, I also want to get quick disconnects to put at the bottom but they dont make black ones


----------



## wasserkuhlung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FuzzDad;12812182*
> The EK 240 radiator was maybe 1/4" too tall so as I pushed it in it bowed the bottom of the case down a tad. I removed the radiator and noticed it had even scratched some paint off the bottom of the radiator...it's so tight I don't really need any screws to hold it in place.
> 
> Now that I think about it...I'll need to put something between the copper radiator and the aluminum case to preclude the two non-similar metals reacting deal (correct?).


If you didnt tell us we wouldnt have known! To me , that rad looks snug in there!

Dont worry.. as long as you dont get the two surfaces wet and have their ions floating about ( like how the ions would float about if you mixed both metals in a distilled water loop ) , galvanic corrosion wont occur .







great looking rig man.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wasserkuhlung*


If you didnt tell us we wouldnt have known! To me , that rad looks snug in there!

Dont worry.. as long as you dont get the two surfaces wet and have their ions floating about ( like how the ions would float about if you mixed both metals in a distilled water loop ) , galvanic corrosion wont occur .







great looking rig man.


^this.

galvanic corrosion is a problem is when water is making contact with both surfaces in a loop. (ie: if you were to use a passive aluminum finned reservoir with a copper radiator, then you'd be in brown water for sure)


----------



## FuzzDad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wasserkuhlung*


If you didnt tell us we wouldnt have known! To me , that rad looks snug in there!

Dont worry.. as long as you dont get the two surfaces wet and have their ions floating about ( like how the ions would float about if you mixed both metals in a distilled water loop ) , galvanic corrosion wont occur .







great looking rig man.


Thx and appreciate it...I might change the loop a tad (go gpu->reservoir->240->360 instead of GPU->240-Reservoir->360) to reduce the spaghetti...


----------



## wasserkuhlung

If you are gonna go Pump > GPU > Reservoir > Rads , wont it cause a whole load of turbulence and also lower your flow rate? I'll rather you go Res > Pump > GPU> Rad > Res .









By the way , has anybody tried Delta Electronics WFB1212M 120x25mm 72CFM, 34dBA, 2100rpm on a MCR320? Im using S-flex F 1600 rpm but i feel like the dead spot is of the fan is huge and airflow isnt really impressive. Im not using a shroud. Share your views with me please!


----------



## grazz1984

Just installed res in 690 II advance


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Shirza, I have and always will love your system


----------



## mrmullet34

Im number 636 updating finally got my full loop done and up and running, going to get new fans, do some wire management, and get some uv lighting in there and Ill be done for now









the whole rig









the inside









my awesome wire management









my cat likes to help


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrmullet34;12817025*
> Im number 636 updating finally got my full loop done and up and running, going to get new fans, do some wire management, and get some uv lighting in there and Ill be done for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the whole rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my awesome wire management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my cat likes to help


your pictures didnt work


----------



## mrmullet34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12817042*
> your pictures didnt work


yea i was trying to edit it, ill have to upload them to someplace else


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ok maybe some of you can help me out with this, I love this guys case how the mobo sits on the top, in the description he says its an X Ascension, but looking on mountain mods site i cant find any layout like this, and do they also make a u2 ufo version like this or did this guy customize his case???
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZPG0KON3pU[/ame]


----------



## pcnoob1

Closest thing you can get to that in a ufo is the triple 360 front panel. Only thing that sucks about that layout is there are no 5:25 bays. Just type in front panel under Mountain Mods search bar. I believe the layout your wanting is the horizon? You can get that in a ufo as well.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcnoob1;12819986*
> Closest thing you can get to that in a ufo is the triple 360 front panel. Only thing that sucks about that layout is there are no 5:25 bays.


id rather have the Ascension then, is it a custom build tho?


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


id rather have the Ascension then, is it a custom build tho?


Mountain Mods lets you pick out the layout you want. So in a way its custom. All the panels are hyper modular meaning you can change them around. Try Mountain Mods cyo builder.

http://www.mountainmods.com/CYO_picker.php


----------



## thunder1

My first watercooled build.


----------



## trippinonprozac

my finished rig









been a while in the making!


----------



## slowman87

^Dude that looks AWESOME! Love the look man. Wow.


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thunder1*


My first watercooled build.










I like it


----------



## mrmullet34

all right, lets try this again. This time using imageshack

Im number 636 updating finally got my full loop done and up and running, going to get new fans, do some wire management, and get some uv lighting in there and Ill be done for now


the whole rig


the inside


my awesome wire management



my cat likes to help


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slowman87*


^Dude that looks AWESOME! Love the look man. Wow.


thanks dude!


----------



## 161029

You can flip the front panel of the Ascension. Same with the side or top. I'm not so sure about the back unless you really wanted to and could figure a way out. I would go for the U2-UFO if you want to consider another case. The Case Labs Magnum M8/M10 is perfect for watercooling too.


----------



## VSpecII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12819928*
> Ok maybe some of you can help me out with this, I love this guys case how the mobo sits on the top, in the description he says its an X Ascension, but looking on mountain mods site i cant find any layout like this, and do they also make a u2 ufo version like this or did this guy customize his case???


I think you are talking about the horizontal mb option. Yes, it's an option for the UFO as well. Go to their website and use the Flash CYO picker and you can play with all the different options.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12823532*


Man that Rez is so sexy makes me want to go out and buy it


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12819928*
> Ok maybe some of you can help me out with this, I love this guys case how the mobo sits on the top, in the description he says its an X Ascension, but looking on mountain mods site i cant find any layout like this, and do they also make a u2 ufo version like this or did this guy customize his case???
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZPG0KON3pU


The u2ufo, extended u2ufo, ascension, and extended ascension all come with the horizon option, the option that allows you to lay the mobo flat. The front and back panels can be mounted in either directions while the left, right, and top can as well, but depends on the case. The ufo's can be placed in any direction and on any side. The horizon offers reduced stress on the mobo for tri and quad sli builds, but it limits the case in radiator configuration, at least in being able to add the most you possibly can.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac;12821068*
> my finished rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> been a while in the making!


Looks amazing. Very clean
Any pics with the room dark?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## t-ramp

Here are a couple pictures of my tech bench:


----------



## Kahbrohn

t-ramp, you make that yourself or did you buy it? Looks nice.


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12827421*
> t-ramp, you make that yourself or did you buy it? Looks nice.


Made it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;12827518*
> Made it.


That is nice... If I send out my 932 nto a friend who has a body shop, I may order one from you to work off of while he takes his sweet time in doing me a favor! Favors always take longer than paid work does!


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12827580*
> That is nice... If I send out my 932 nto a friend who has a body shop, I may order one from you to work off of while he takes his sweet time in doing me a favor! Favors always take longer than paid work does!


I don't plan on making these for people, sorry. It was a fun project, but I'm glad it's finished.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;12827631*
> I don't plan on making these for people, sorry. It was a fun project, but I'm glad it's finished.


That's cool... You do seem like you are handy with tools and wood. Me? I am a terror to all trees!!!


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12827666*
> That's cool... You do seem like you are handy with tools and wood. Me? I am a terror to all trees!!!


Hardly.







I like building/modding, but I'm honestly not very good at it. That being said, if you have access to tools, building a wood case is a great project.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;12827295*
> Here are a couple pictures of my tech bench:
> 
> *snip*


Most beautiful tech bench I have ever seen. Amazing work!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

tech bench is pretty sweet. What color stain did you use?

and lulz @ using my quote in ur sig.


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Most beautiful tech bench I have ever seen. Amazing work!


You're too kind.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


tech bench is pretty sweet. What color stain did you use?

and lulz @ using my quote in ur sig.


Thank you.









The stain is Minwax Golden Oak. It was left over from some staining my parents did. I used Gunstock on another mod and thought it was a bit too red, so I tried this instead.


----------



## Extreme Newbie

Transferred everything to a new Case Labs M8 case. Dual loop with 2 Rads on top and 1 in the front.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Extreme Newbie*


Transferred everything to a new Case Labs M8 case. Dual loop with 2 Rads on top and 1 in the front.

*snip*


Very nice! Just watched Juggalos review of it on you-tube. Very impressive case, and you have done an excellent job with it


----------



## shajack

@t-ramp...mind posting a few pics on d i/o panel...i was putting my wc rig on a book shelf while waiting my casing being powder coat n now hooked on putting it all on d book shelf..but cant figure a way how to make the i/o panel...
many thanks in advance


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shajack;12832544*
> @t-ramp...mind posting a few pics on d i/o panel...i was putting my wc rig on a book shelf while waiting my casing being powder coat n now hooked on putting it all on d book shelf..but cant figure a way how to make the i/o panel...
> many thanks in advance:thumb:


I'm not sure what you mean. I don't have any ports/switches beside those on the motherboard itself.


----------



## shajack

pics of mobo rear connector;usb,mouse,keyboard...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;12832456*
> Very nice! Just watched Juggalos review of it on you-tube. Very impressive case, and you have done an excellent job with it


Link please


----------



## xxlawman87xx

So you are the one who stole my case! I WANT IT BACK!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Extreme Newbie;12832289*
> Transferred everything to a new Case Labs M8 case. Dual loop with 2 Rads on top and 1 in the front.


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Great minds think alike. I added this to my loop a few weeks ago....a pain the A$$ to bleed though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;12823532*


----------



## Extreme Newbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxlawman87xx;12834114*
> So you are the one who stole my case! I WANT IT BACK!


You shouldn't have left the case sitting on your front step.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12834084*
> Link please


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIb_iHH1jqM[/ame]

Enjoy!


----------



## Maelthras

Heres my little xspc 750 rs240 kit that I installed, it's in a cm 692 case, this is an awesome setup and relatively easy I think. The push fans are inside the top of the case, I tossed the led fan that came with the case as a nice light and pull fan.

P.S. Getting that fan installed without removing the rad was in was a pain.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;12836706*
> Enjoy!


very very nice


----------



## destinyair

:gunner2:From Coolermaster CM690 II Club Thailand:gunner2:


----------



## Kahbrohn

Very nice set up there destinyair!!! Can you post a pix that shows everything in one shot (frontal shot)?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## destinyair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12838424*
> Very nice set up there destinyair!!! Can you post a pix that shows everything in one shot (frontal shot)?


----------



## grazz1984

Will a laing ddc pump be ok mounted on the side of my case or does it have to be flat, i want to make a bracket so it sits closer to front of my case but i dont want it sitting ontop of my radiator so was thinking of mounting it sideways if you kno what i mean?


----------



## grazz1984

Abit like this?


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destinyair;12841026*
> [/URL][/QUOTE]
> 
> nice build but why not clear tubing if you're using dye.. i think it would have looked a lot better than white


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12841548*
> Abit like this?


Yeah, it will be fine.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

I ran my MCP355 on it's side for about 6 months, it is good.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys i just got my Enzotech 45 degree rotary fitting and holding it in my hand i cant seem to turn it, i used all my strength and couldn't get it to move, is it easy to trun when screwed into something??

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_141&products_id=1160


----------



## Mongol

Dunk it in hot water for a minute.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12844767*
> Hey guys i just got my Enzotech 45 degree rotary fitting and holding it in my hand i cant seem to turn it, i used all my strength and couldn't get it to move, is it easy to trun when screwed into something??
> 
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_141&products_id=1160


They're quite easy to remove, you might want to get a replacement if it isn't easily unscrewing.

I had a BP fitting that would unscrew halfway and then it would get stuck so I just had SVC send me a new one.


----------



## Mongol

Got some new fans:










Replaced all of my R4's and now my case is darker...lol:










Did a little more cleaning up/rerouting:










Picked up a new toy for $90 on CL:


----------



## tipgo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destinyair;12837246*
> :gunner2:From Coolermaster CM690 II Club Thailand:gunner2:


very nice


----------



## mekaw

modded my case, and removed 240 rad and put 360 rad inside instead of external mount like it was before. need some 45 deg fittings so i can space out the radiator forward to do push pull =D


----------



## t-ramp

Looks great!







That's a substantial sacrifice you made though.


----------



## bundymania

Good old uncle bundy has some new parts in his pockets







So let the show begin:


----------



## mekaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;12853678*
> Looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a substantial sacrifice you made though.


yeah.. I did gain 4 or 5 deg on temp though, going from external 360 + internal 240, push pull on 360 and pull on 240.

now when gaming cpu sees 50 deg XD vs 45 before


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12845099*
> 
> Picked up a new toy for $90 on CL:


That looks a 507
I have an 807, and I <3 mine. Got it for $650 open box


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12854287*
> updated


Your thread is amazing, i check it out all the time, there is just one small/big suggestion, which is alot of work now, because there are so many members, but i think it would be cool if on the list of members it said what case/cases they had. But ya like i said thats ALOT of work.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;12854860*
> That looks a 507
> I have an 807, and I <3 mine. Got it for $650 open box


603x.







Couldn't pass it up.

plus I have my trusty ol' workhorse, the SR605 running my HT.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12845082*
> They're quite easy to remove, you might want to get a replacement if it isn't easily unscrewing.
> 
> I had a BP fitting that would unscrew halfway and then it would get stuck so I just had SVC send me a new one.


thats not the problem, im talking about it rotating


----------



## wermad

wip


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey you guys i have a question, my buddy wants me to do a w.c build for him and i have a few questions what size rad would i need to cool, i7 950, and 2x gtx 465?
My second question what ek block does the 465 use the 460block or the 470block?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12856935*
> Hey you guys i have a question, my buddy wants me to do a w.c build for him and i have a few questions what size rad would i need to cool, i7 950, and 2x gtx 465?
> My second question what ek block does the 465 use the 460block or the 470block?


any good 1366 block is good,

GTX 465 = 470 (physically, so a wb will fit







)


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12856962*
> any good 1366 block is good,
> 
> GTX 465 = 470 (physically, so a wb will fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


so rad size needed?


----------



## wermad

a thick 360 will do the job. tbh, it really depends on the case and how he wants the rad mounted (internal or external). this may determine what size and/or number of rads utilized


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12857047*
> a thick 360 will do the job. tbh, it really depends on the case and how he wants the rad mounted (internal or external). this may determine what size and/or number of rads utilized


well he could fit a 240 rad or 280 rad at the top , and a 120 at the back exhaust, its only a mid tower so its kinda tight


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FuzzDad;12811833*
> Similar to my 840...did you have the same trouble I did cramming the 240 in front of the HD bays? I had to jam mine in.


What case was this? I am about to do a CM haf 922 and was liking were you put the 240 rad but was not shur how it worked out?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12857121*
> well he could fit a 240 rad or 280 rad at the top , and a 120 at the back exhaust, its only a mid tower so its kinda tight


That seems good enough









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12857168*
> What case was this? I am about to do a CM haf 922 and was liking were you put the 240 rad but was not shur how it worked out?


Seems like its a CM 840


----------



## boot_failure

may i join in??



























































































sorry potluck..
this is my first post
thanks


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12857230*
> That seems good enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like its a CM 840


haha i was just looking at your set up then you wrote weird lol, just trying to get some ideas the build (tear down and build) starts tomorrow


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boot_failure;12857233*
> may i join in??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for my bad pic..
> this is my first post


yes of coarse but no picture came through


----------



## Qu1ckset

hey i cant find any pictures of this reservoir installed, anyone have this?









http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=122_125&products_id=1051

And also is there any tube reservoirs with built in pumps?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12857276*
> hey i cant find any pictures of this reservoir installed, anyone have this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=122_125&products_id=1051
> 
> And also is there any tube reservoirs with built in pumps?


well as far as tube resi's with pumps yes, what store do you normally deal with? I get you the links


----------



## Bradford1040

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=122_168&products_id=922

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=122_168&products_id=483

just the first two I saw on the site you are already looking at


----------



## Qu1ckset

performance-pcs, and daz mode, id perfer daz mode because i got hammered twice with duty when oredering from performance pcs, like ine time was $140, and the other was $188


----------



## boot_failure

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12857260*
> yes of coarse but no picture came through


i've already fixed..


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12857332*
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=122_168&products_id=922
> 
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=122_168&products_id=483
> 
> just the first two I saw on the site you are already looking at


Those are just the rez no pumps, there is non built into it, sold separately


----------



## wermad

better to get a stand alone pump and res, just in case one decides to change either one. more future proof


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12857382*
> Those are just the rez no pumps, there is non built into it, sold separately


oh well you mean inside? of the tube because if you mean just because it is not sold with it whats the difference? or am I just not understanding?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12857459*
> better to get a stand alone pump and res, just in case one decides to change either one. more future proof


maybe il do that, i mint keep my bay-rez, i just want to clean my loop up and make it look sick, im not impressed with the way it looks way to much tubes everywhre.

ok in the picture below, is my loop and the yellow is the fitting i need, what would i need to clear the fan so its i straight shot to the cpu.










This?









+










or


----------



## Qu1ckset

And the reason i want to get a different rez is so its easier to fill, cuz once i redo my loop there wont be any slack to pull the bay rez out


----------



## Bradford1040

holly poop!!! that is one cramped system, I see your point to it would look better and be easier


----------



## Qu1ckset

I found this also


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12857276*
> hey i cant find any pictures of this reservoir installed, anyone have this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=122_125&products_id=1051
> 
> And also is there any tube reservoirs with built in pumps?


could totally be an epic flask.


----------



## 161029

Hello everybody. Quick question, should I get the MCP35X or the MCP655 (Speed Control Model)?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12858201*
> Hello everybody. Quick question, should I get the MCP35X or the MCP655 (Speed Control Model)?


well I would say mcp655-b the var-speed is not really necessary but I dont know what you are going for but the mcp655 is the industry's best reliable pump as per reviews


----------



## 161029

I was looking at the MCP35X performance chart compared to the other pumps and it won against the MCP355 but not the MCP655. I guess the lower the pressure, the better. I also heard that the MCP350 series pumps tend to run hot. A person here had his burn out. Luckily, it wasn't in his loop yet,


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12858330*
> I was looking at the MCP35X performance chart compared to the other pumps and it won against the MCP355 but not the MCP655. I guess the lower the pressure, the better.


well truthfully not shur of why it is the top pump just know that 9 out of 10 people told me to use it, and as I said the speed controlled one is not so important so save the 20~30 bucks if you don't need it for something special


----------



## 161029

OK. Just made me think about when I'm going to adjust the loop speed. I might adjust it though when I'm not using any intense applications to save power though. I don't want my mom yelling at me for a higher power bill.







One more question







, what tops are compatible with it? I want the best performance I can get out of this pump.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12858201*
> Hello everybody. Quick question, should I get the MCP35X or the MCP655 (Speed Control Model)?


Cheaper 655

I know ive seen a 655-b for $65 which doesnt have speed control.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12858397*
> OK. Just made me think about when I'm going to adjust the loop speed. I might adjust it though when I'm not using any intense applications to save power though. I don't want my mom yelling at me for a higher power bill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , what tops are compatible with it? I want the best performance I can get out of this pump.


lmao I don't think that that what people use the speed control for it is more about adjusting the flow rate to get the very best cooling on extreme over clocked systems from what I have been told! I am no expert but as I have spent the last month buried in learning how to set up a water cooled system, with countless questions to experts I think I am right


----------



## 161029

Okay, so how about the tops now?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12858539*
> Okay, so how about the tops now?


EK D5
I use this one, love it.

2000th post.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12858539*
> Okay, so how about the tops now?


any of the D5 or 450 stuff it is very versatile I could go on and on there are to many to list


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;12858596*
> EK D5
> I use this one, love it.
> 
> 2000th post.


I have two of these for my two D5s. Let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## 161029

Will a top on a MCP655 really make a difference in performance compared to the MCP350 series pumps?

Edit-I'm really only looking at EK tops and it looks like they only have 1 D5 top and a couple MCP350 series tops.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12858622*
> Will a top on a MCP655 really make a difference in performance compared to the MCP350 series pumps?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27699

this or any others that on this site like the double pump mod top and others


----------



## wermad

Most appealing thing about tops for Laing pumps is the g1/4 ports instead of fixed barbs, imho


----------



## 161029

Yeah. I'm going for G1/4 barbs.

Edit-Sorry to be such a bother







but I just need some help deciding between the EK MultiOption Advanced or a Bitspower reservoir.


----------



## wermad

the bits looks better, also materials seem better imo.


----------



## Triangle

The Bitspower looks nicer and maybe better quality?
I will be getting a Bitspower 5.25" black acetal Bay res...


----------



## 161029

I've been thinking about bay but I somehow like cylindrical better.


----------



## Triangle

If you like the cylinder res better get it.


----------



## Qu1ckset

ok so i was just about to order all my fittings, among them were some stuff to extend the fill port on my bay-rez and then i noticed my bay rez isnt G1/4" Thread, does anyone know what thread the fill port is on this rez?

XSPC Dual 5.25" Reservoir









because i want to clean my loop up and one of the reasons there is so much slack is so i can pull my bay-rez out and fill it.


----------



## wermad

for cylinder, nothing compares in terms of looks to the Frozen Q fusion helix res


----------



## BradleyW

Can i join with the H50. It is a watercooler afterall!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


ok so i was just about to order all my fittings, among them were some stuff to extend the fill port on my bay-rez and then i noticed my bay rez isnt G1/4" Thread, does anyone know what thread the fill port is on this rez?

XSPC Dual 5.25" Reservoir









because i want to clean my loop up and one of the reasons there is so much slack is so i can pull my bay-rez out and fill it.


no one knows?

**EDIT**
Found what i was looking for








http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24088


----------



## Mongol

That's not 1/4"? I could have sworn that is...it may be 3/8" like my old alphacool reservoir.


----------



## Qu1ckset

how do this clamp?


----------



## Mongol

grip the two tongs that are poking up with a plier, slide over the tubing while holding it like that and then release plier when the clamp is over the tubing on the barb.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


grip the two tongs that are poking up with a plier, slide over the tubing while holding it like that and then release plier when the clamp is over the tubing on the barb.


Sounds Easy

So ya i just drop $140 on fittings and quick disconnects, but its gunna be worth it!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

wow guys, I think I just went through like 5 pages without having a reason to say "updated"... this thread has really grown in the last few months


----------



## Qu1ckset

lol i never knew xspc made cases, kinda look like mountain mod cases but crappier

XSPC H1 CUBE









XSPC H2 TOWER


----------



## nickbaldwin86

interesting... I really like the look of those cases


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


interesting... I really like the look of those cases


There both $599 at dazmode.com kinda pricy..


----------



## Qu1ckset

hmm i wonder how much he is gunna charge for these


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


There both $599 at dazmode.com kinda pricy..


ouch!... never mind I can get a much better much nicer case for that price


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


ouch!... never mind I can get a much better much nicer case for that price


ya i know, but you might be able to find it else where for cheaper i didnt look around, but they dont seem that interesting to me, to even bother looking


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


ya i know, but you might be able to find it else where for cheaper i didnt look around, but they dont seem that interesting to me, to even bother looking


same thing I was thinking... I figure it will be the same price as the case I truly want so I don't see the point in even looking


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


hmm i wonder how much he is gunna charge for these










i absolutly love the Frozen-q res, but thats just odd.. don't say id want one of those


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


lol i never knew xspc made cases, kinda look like mountain mod cases but crappier

XSPC H2 TOWER


LD knockoff anyone?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


hmm i wonder how much he is gunna charge for these


If I remember correctly (please don't quote me on this) it was somewhere between $109-129? I can't remember, but there was a 1 and a 9 in it..







PM him if you're curious, I'm sure he or nevermiind could easily give you the numbers.


----------



## RushMore1205

what i love that thing, about to pic one of those up for my FOLDERS dream project

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


i absolutly love the Frozen-q res, but thats just odd.. don't say id want one of those


----------



## wermad

xspc = function > form


----------



## mekaw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


LD knockoff anyone?









If I remember correctly (please don't quote me on this) it was somewhere between $109-129? I can't remember, but there was a 1 and a 9 in it..







PM him if you're curious, I'm sure he or nevermiind could easily give you the numbers.


his website suggests 109 and seems like u can pre order at 109. but who knows?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


xspc = function > form


Those XSPC cases look great I think, they took what people liked about the 800D and the TJ07 and managed to merge it.

Only thing I hate are the thumb screws being everywhere.

No more needing to cut the top of your case to fit a 480 rad and you don't usually see cases come that way standard.

Price though is what kills it IMO.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mekaw*


his website suggests 109 and seems like u can pre order at 109. but who knows?


I got his fusion helix and it is a work of beauty, a few tid bits Im disappointed in but a few extra fitting extension solved them. Will be crown jewel in my current evolution of my build


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Those XSPC cases look great I think, they took what people liked about the 800D and the TJ07 and managed to merge it.

Only thing I hate are the thumb screws being everywhere.

No more needing to cut the top of your case to fit a 480 rad and you don't usually see cases come that way standard.

Price though is what kills it IMO.


Agreed on the thumb screws but I bet they could be replaced with appropriate machine screws to give it a bit of a cleaner look on the sides and do away with that "Frankenstein Neck Bolt" look.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12862411*
> Those XSPC cases look great I think, they took what people liked about the 800D and the TJ07 and managed to merge it.
> 
> Only thing I hate are the thumb screws being everywhere.


I only don´t like those thumbscrews on the side panel, but hey...it´s not a big problem to change them against better looking screws, eh ?!









I will construct the "Puzzle" out of the box to that H1 Case within the next days. Price will be around 400 Euros i guess / 349 Pound in the UK


----------



## paradoxum

what could I do to improve my loop? I think I could cut down the length of some of the tubing, but I kind of like how they stick out. the top rad has a fan above it pulling air up and there's some vents above it. I did have another one pushing from below but they're really noisy.. 140mm aerocool sharks or something? I forget. wish they had 140mm GT's

also i'd like to get some dust filters to keep the rads clean, preferibly some easy to clean magnetic ones, but the only ones I can find have white mesh which would really ruin the look


----------



## Kahbrohn

As per my friends at XSPC... The XSPC cases will be in stock soon at PPC and FrozenCPU for those interested.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12862057*
> xspc = function > form


especially the cube one. It's a bastardized ufo. There's no competition between the two.


----------



## Lerkah

I dont mind the look of the H2 at all, quite like it actually, its a nice platform for some serious modding.

I just don't understand this part - "*Front 5.25" bay covers sold separately"

=\


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lerkah;12865361*
> I dont mind the look of the H2 at all, quite like it actually, its a nice platform for some serious modding.
> 
> I just don't understand this part - *"*Front 5.25" bay covers sold separately"*
> 
> =\


mountain mods does that too... so they can get $10-$15 for each one.


----------



## Lerkah

ouch


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

they are much higher quality than other 5.25 bay covers tho (the MM ones). They're super thick aluminum unlike lian li's super thin and even flexible covers and coolermaster's plastic ones.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

I personally love the look of that second XSPC case posted earlier... it has great modding potential. is a bit pricy though.


----------



## Mongol

I hope (I'm going to go pester CorsairGeorge) that they wise up and add a pedestal for the 800/700D's before I take it upon myself to build one.







(or create a new slick black monolith and call it the 900D with support for 3 480 rads.)


----------



## Triangle

I like that H2.....


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12865761*
> I like that H2.....


They are gonna be expensive though... http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=182_183&products_id=1183


----------



## Triangle

I need to get what I am getting then....

Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24....
140.3 fans on top.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;12866021*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get what I am getting then....
> 
> Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24....
> 140.3 fans on top.


Do it!!! Mountain Mods cases are complete awesomesauce

Few minor updates including a new side panel and lighting







Replacing the res' ccfl as soon as it comes in the mail so it's brighter.



For some reason uv screws with the focusing on every camera I use.


Apparently using ccfl extension cables makes them sure dim. No idea why.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


They are gonna be expensive though... http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...oducts_id=1183


i already posted pics and price... $599.99


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


i already posted pics and price... $599.99


Where at???


----------



## 161029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Do it!!! Mountain Mods cases are complete awesomesauce

Few minor updates including a new side panel and lighting







Replacing the res' ccfl as soon as it comes in the mail so it's brighter.



For some reason uv screws with the focusing on every camera I use.


Apparently using ccfl extension cables makes them sure dim. No idea why.


That is beautiful







.


----------



## Modus

Hey guys, I'm starting my first WC project and have a few questions.

- Any suggestions for tube OD size? something in the middle. not too thin but not too thick
- pump placement, i'm looking at the MCP350 with the EK top. would it be possible to put this upsidedown and sideways? also is it required to mount it seperately or is it alright to connect it directly to the tube res?
- would a single 120mm rad be good enough for a CPU only loop?


----------



## 161029

3/4 od, 1/2 id.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Where at???



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


There both $599 at dazmode.com kinda pricy..


pg 935


----------



## badatgames18

still under revision... here is my rig so far, have to wait on more tubbing to come for my dd water block for my gtx 580... suggestions? recommendations?




























I was thinking of adding a 140 rad when i add my graphics card to the loop. good idea, no?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Why did you use so much tubing?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modus;12870618*
> Hey guys, I'm starting my first WC project and have a few questions.
> 
> - Any suggestions for tube OD size? something in the middle. not too thin but not too thick
> - pump placement, i'm looking at the MCP350 with the EK top. would it be possible to put this upsidedown and sideways? also is it required to mount it seperately or is it alright to connect it directly to the tube res?
> - would a single 120mm rad be good enough for a CPU only loop?


1. I'd suggest 7/16"x5/8" over 1/2" barbs and clampless.

2. The pump needs to be gravity-fed, so sideways is fine, but I wouldn't mount it upsidedown since you could develop a bubble in the pump.

3. EK Multioption-Link Reservoirs are compatible with some EK tops, otherwise a short un of tubing will connect them easily.

4. I'd suggest more than 120mm, but yes, you can use only 120mm if you need to. Don't expect temps to be spectacular though.


----------



## badatgames18

to provide slack when i drain? Is it too much?

that's why i sort of over did the tubbing lengths


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;12870797*
> still under revision... here is my rig so far, have to wait on more tubbing to come for my dd water block for my gtx 580... suggestions? recommendations?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of adding a 140 rad when i add my graphics card to the loop. good idea, no?


i cant see how thick your rad is, but on my loop i got a 360rad and 120rad, but i have 2x 580s, and a i7 950 which im sure runs hotter then your 2600k and my temps are pretty good


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12870760*
> pg 935


Hahahahaha... I am looking at page 935 and saying ***??? "These are old pix from 2009!" Then I realized, your page 935 is probably my page 4. We seem to order our postings differently... Sorry. Didn't look that far back when I posted.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badatgames18*


to provide slack when i drain? Is it too much?

that's why i sort of over did the tubbing lengths


Ya thats what i did, but after i was done i hated the look, so i ordered a bunch of new fittings. 
i ordered quick disconnects, and a fill port for my bay-rez so i can shorten all the tubing...

Looks terrible imo lol


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Hahahahaha... I am looking at page 935 and saying ***??? "These are old pix from 2009!" Then I realized, your page 935 is probably my page 4. We seem to order our postings differently... Sorry. Didn't look that far back when I posted.


lol no worrys man


----------



## R00ST3R

Well I finally found some time to mess around with some of that tread plate scrap thats been laying around for ages. This is just a "see how it works/looks" thing-a-ma-jigger.










Now I just need to go buy enough to make it cover the whole PSU. I know some of you are going to be greatly saddened by the loss of the leopard skin cover, but it had to be done







.


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


i cant see how thick your rad is, but on my loop i got a 360rad and 120rad, but i have 2x 580s, and a i7 950 which im sure runs hotter then your 2600k and my temps are pretty good


what temps are you getting for your cpu? at what volts? Mine is pretty high at 1.45v 24-7. Highest temp i have gotten was in Intel burn test max with 8 threads. It got to 64C. I really don't want it to go above that


----------



## Qu1ckset

its at 3.7ghz with 1.352v and after playing sc2 and crysis2 i hit 30C, i havnt done any of that prime95 stuff yet, its just a light OC, after i finish building my w/c setup il get to some higher clocks


----------



## Qu1ckset

Btw my rads are:
HW Black Ice GTX Gen Two 360
HW Black Ice GTX Gen Two 120

which im pretty sure are thicker and better then ur rad, and i have ap15s in push pull so you might get different temps, but you are only doing one gtx 580, and you got 65C on w/c?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*












Is that pic up to date, if so you need to switch the GPU inlet. (I seem to remember that you did change it, but I wanted to make sure).


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Is that pic up to date, if so you need to switch the GPU inlet. (I seem to remember that you did change it, but I wanted to make sure).


ya its been changed i jus grabbed a quick pic to show how horrible the tubing looks, next weekend it will look way better


----------



## badatgames18

if i may ask where did you attach the quick disconnects again? How would you do that with an internal rad mount?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badatgames18*


if i may ask where did you attach the quick disconnects again? How would you do that with an internal rad mount?


I didnt install it yet but im putting it at the lowest point in my loop so the water drains better. here is a picture of where im installing it. and do the same for yours put it in the lowest possible spot










Disconnects


----------



## badatgames18

i don't exactly know how to attach it... do you just cut the tube in half and attach the quick disconnects? then your done


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

You connect a male QDC to a female QDC and on the other end of each should be compression fittings.

That was for the Koolance one listed above, just make sure you get a male/female combo that works together.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


You connect a male QDC to a female QDC and on the other end of each should be compression fittings.

That was for the Koolance one listed above, just make sure you get a male/female combo that works together.


I wasn't even thinking do these come with compression fittings or do i have to buy separately cant tell from description

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25962

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25958


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


I wasn't even thinking do these come with compression fittings or do i have to buy separately cant tell from description

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25962

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25958


there are different versions. They either come with a compression fitting or a barb on on end. They are extremely convenient for swapping out parts. I have 4 sets so i can isolate and remove parts without draining.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badatgames18*


i don't exactly know how to attach it... do you just cut the tube in half and attach the quick disconnects? then your done










they also have a threaded version if you wanted to attach one side to a rad or a block, or even your rez, but there are no barb versions (koolance), so you would have to get the compression fitting version, which is better then barbs anyway, once you look at it, you will figure it out, il post pics next weekend when finished.

i kinda dont want to drain my loop, its finally dead silent, no more bubbles lol, and the ap15s are amazingly quiet!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12871749*
> there are different versions. They either come with a compression fitting or a barb on on end. They are extremely convenient for swapping out parts. I have 4 sets so i can isolate and remove parts without draining.


so do the links i post include the compression fittings??


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

the compression fitting is part of the quick disconnect


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12871801*
> the compression fitting is part of the quick disconnect


Ok cool i kinda regret not getting two sets, one for the inlet tube on the rez and on for the outlet tube of the rez....


----------



## Modus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;12870960*
> Well I finally found some time to mess around with some of that tread plate scrap thats been laying around for ages. This is just a "see how it works/looks" thing-a-ma-jigger.
> 
> http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/MAN1F3ST/TJ09%20WC/DSCF2015.jpg
> 
> Now I just need to go buy enough to make it cover the whole PSU. I know some of you are going to be greatly saddened by the loss of the leopard skin cover, but it had to be done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


What OD size tubing is that? seems to be the right size for what I want.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

looks like 3/8id 1/2 od


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Few things unplugged and loose wires, not really able to progress any further until my PSU comes back from RMA, I did boot up before the PSU died (for some odd reason), and saw a cool 18C on my 5970 in afterburner.


----------



## Mongol

Oh I saw your msg but can't reply from tapacrap without it crashing. It made me sad.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

I'm posting from Tapatalk right now, crashes with large images on my iPhone 3G, all the damn time!

It's weird that it died, I'm convinced it was either water or a metal shard in it or something, as it clicked a few times on startup, one of my fans stopped then it smelt of burning. Tried to jump it, tripped the circuit breaker knocking out my houses electricity. Now it's well and truly dead, doesn't even power on with a paperclip, or crackle when I plug it in.









And I have to pay the postage cost, to the Netherlands, for a heavy PSU!


----------



## Mongol

Oh poo. Couldnt have been water. Maybe it was just its time.








Unless a screw got in there...I remember when I was building my very first pc...I was adding a fan to the top of the case while the pc was running and a screw fell out of my hand and fell onto the psu and I saw it bounce on the fan and fall in..then a loud bang and flash and smoke. Psu fan went still...and psu was toast...I kicked myself for it.

That really stinks. That is one pricey leap across the pond.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12872386*
> Oh poo. Couldnt have been water. Maybe it was just its time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless a screw got in there...I remember when I was building my very first pc...I was adding a fan to the top of the case while the pc was running and a screw fell out of my hand and fell onto the psu and I saw it bounce on the fan and fall in..then a loud bang and flash and smoke. Psu fan went still...and psu was toast...I kicked myself for it.
> 
> That really stinks. That is one pricey leap across the pond.


Lmao for that exact reason, when i work on my computer, its off, ive dropped a screw in my psu, but my computer was off so no damage done, but i guess u learned an expensive lesson lol


----------



## Mongol

Yeah...that was about 5 years ago. I dun goofed!


----------



## kingofyo1

Welp, got my new case and everything put together. Me thinky you'll likey


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Heres my updated rig its not perfect but good enugh lol crazy how fast you run out of space.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Modus*


What OD size tubing is that? seems to be the right size for what I want.


It says in my sig - 7/16's x 5/8's







.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Ill post pictures of my finished WC'ing build


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Ill post pictures of my finished WC'ing build



















Bee-U-ti-full!! What radiator(s) are you using in there & where are they located within the case?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Heres my updated rig its not perfect but good enugh lol crazy how fast you run out of space.

http://i.imgur.com/01vWF.jpg [ / IMG]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Question, can you not run from rad to the left inlet on gpu, down through the right outlet, into the top left inlet of 2nd gpu and exit through bottom right into 2nd rad?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Bee-U-ti-full!! What radiator(s) are you using in there & where are they located within the case?


Thank you








Using MCR 320: located at the top of the case (behind the hiding side panel)

















Then RS240: located at the bottom under the false floor behind the bottom front 140 fan.







(didnt have the other 2 fans installed in this picture


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


Question, can you not run from rad to the left inlet on gpu, down through the right outlet, into the top left inlet of 2nd gpu and exit through bottom right into 2nd rad?


No cards to close when barbs are on they cant even be installed thats why i had to do it way it is.


----------



## JE Nightmare

did you try looking into the bitspower crystal link sets, they have one that's 14mm.


----------



## Freakn

Not the best pic in the world but that shows 2 360 and a 120 rad with room for 6 3-1/2" hard drives.

Its only a temp setup as I needed it running as I sold a crap load more gear on OCAU and I'm away all next week with work.

The wife and son would cry if they couldn't stream all the TV and Movies


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


did you try looking into the bitspower crystal link sets, they have one that's 14mm.


Well i got no spare money to spend right now so this is why i setup this way its getting good temps just looks wierd.


----------



## Rian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;12873547*
> Not the best pic in the world but that shows 2 360 and a 120 rad with room for 6 3-1/2" hard drives.
> 
> Its only a temp setup as I needed it running as I sold a crap load more gear on OCAU and I'm away all next week with work.
> 
> The wife and son would cry if they could stream all the TV and Movies


So.... Much..... Cooling...


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;12873547*
> Not the best pic in the world but that shows 2 360 and a 120 rad with room for 6 3-1/2" hard drives.
> 
> Its only a temp setup as I needed it running as I sold a crap load more gear on OCAU and I'm away all next week with work.
> 
> The wife and son would cry if they could stream all the TV and Movies


how did you mount your rads? did you just stick'em in there? (the two 360 rads)


----------



## Freakn

They are currently help with sponge tripping to stop vibration and some double sided tape (on the upright 360) until I finish all the permenant mounts.

Once finished it'll all be like the hard drive area, full custom mounts.

The HDD's are actually mounted and bolted into place, but from this view none of that is visible.

Its time


----------



## p3gaz_001

i need to post some new fresh pics of ma sys .... ^^


----------



## PCSarge

idk if i posted yet but heres mine.

i noticed this an updated from my earlier post with only my 8600 GTS, this has the long awaited 5770 back in action


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge;12876795*
> idk if i posted yet but heres mine.


Whats up with the CPU block?


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge;12876795*
> idk if i posted yet but heres mine.


never seen silver tubes before, looks nice


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;12877471*
> never seen silver tubes before, looks nice


From tygon. They have silver. Check frozenCPU or Danger Den.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12877468*
> Whats up with the CPU block?


775 mounts on a 1156 proc, the mount holes are off centered on an angle

i actually had to make custom nuts for the mounting bolts

figured id reuse the alphacool block i already had, dont even know the model name anymore


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12877487*
> From tygon. They have silver. Check frozenCPU or Danger Den.


Or PPCs or Sidewinder...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge;12879563*
> 775 mounts on a 1156 proc, the mount holes are off centered on an angle
> 
> i actually had to make custom nuts for the mounting bolts
> 
> figured id reuse the alphacool block i already had, dont even know the model name anymore


I never knew you could do that.


----------



## x Yoko

Certain 1156 boards have 775 mounts.


----------



## 3dfxvoodoo




----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


The Bitspower looks nicer and maybe better quality?
I will be getting a Bitspower 5.25" black acetal Bay res...


bits is better I just bought both just so I could choose which I wanted to use and bits hands down, they just seal the connection much better


----------



## Bradford1040

Enzotech makes a really nice fitting to!


----------



## fshizl




----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


Enzotech makes a really nice fitting to!


ya thats what all my fittings are, and they seem really nice


----------



## Bradford1040

wow really nice! just where is the power? lol just kidding looks great I am jealous, I am building mine right now


----------



## mastical

Added the XSPC Razer water block today.
Loads with furmark at 38c, with no p95.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Added the XSPC Razer water block today.










for every one!---swifttech's kit does not come with AMD you need to email them and they send it that day express mail! did not help me cause mine now wont be here till Monday.

Now mastical can you get a close up of the cpu block maybe I can make something till the normal back plate gets here


----------



## mastical

Im using an XSPC Rasa cpu waterblock with an Enzotech Sapphire mounting plate.

The AMD version of the Rasa is soooo ugly i had to make my own.


----------



## Bradford1040

Thank you, but as I feared I don't have anything that I can use (DAM) but great picture and once again Thank you


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


Thank you, but as I feared I don't have anything that I can use (DAM) but great picture and once again Thank you


No problem.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


No problem.


by the way whats up with the







on the sound card?


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


by the way whats up with the







on the sound card?


I don't have one







.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


I don't have one







.


you got a open pci slot? not pci-e just plain old pci


----------



## mastical

Yup. Have a suggestion on which one?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Yup. Have a suggestion on which one?


well check to see if the old creative sound blaster live 5.1 will work with your system, if it does PM me your address I have one I am not using


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Heres my updated rig its not perfect but good enugh lol crazy how fast you run out of space.











ususally ur suppose to put the drain point at the lowest part of the loop, thats the best way to get the water out, or at the lower points the liquid will just sty there


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


well check to see if the old creative sound blaster live 5.1 will work with your system, if it does PM me your address I have one I am not using


Thanks again. Your PMs are now full too.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Thanks again. Your PMs are now full too.


I will empty them so you get me on Monday!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


ususally ur suppose to put the drain point at the lowest part of the loop, thats the best way to get the water out, or at the lower points the liquid will just sty there


I dont use that drain hose i had it befor i put in my 2nd rad at bottom and i didnt have enugh tubing to remove it so i just left it when i drain i pull tubing off the bottom rad.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *3dfxvoodoo*












Ahhh! It's the Technicolor Dreamcoat! LoL! Nice.


----------



## Cyclops

I'm new here. Be nice to me.


----------



## Bradford1040

new to the thread you mean lol, nice system dude.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Cable management mean anything to you?


----------



## Bradford1040

my new items, not the mouse (rat9)


----------



## Bradford1040

I have alot more stuff but don't have things cleaned up around here, to lay it all out! I thought that I would have everything pulled apart and building it back up taken pictures along the way but with out the back-plate for the Apogee XT water block for the AMD chip, it is at a stand still! not what I wanted for the 2nd day air for 70.usd and the 1000.usd in parts all held up by a 5usd part


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12884361*
> I have alot more stuff but don't have things cleaned up around here, to lay it all out! I thought that I would have everything pulled apart and building it back up taken pictures along the way but with out the back-plate for the Apogee XT water block for the AMD chip, it is at a stand still! not what I wanted for the 2nd day air for 70.usd and the 1000.usd in parts all held up by a 5usd part


Nice parts! Watch the double post though









Edit: 2nd Day Air, I didn't know people shipped anything except organs that way!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12884602*
> Nice parts! Watch the double post though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: 2nd Day Air, I didn't know people shipped anything except organs that way!


double post? I only posted each one once or do you mean posting to close together?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12884638*
> double post? I only posted each one once or do you mean posting to close together?


Back to back posts instead of editing the first one.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12884673*
> Back to back posts instead of editing the first one.


I am sorry to all, I never knew that was the way to do it, I was treating like texting and figured if I edited that people would not get it that were using there phone. But I will do it the way you suggest from now on


----------



## 161029

Don't worry. We all learn by mistakes.


----------



## p3gaz_001




----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12884724*
> I am sorry to all, I never knew that was the way to do it, I was treating like texting and figured if I edited that people would not get it that were using there phone. But I will do it the way you suggest from now on


No problem, didn't mean to pick on you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p3gaz_001;12888298*
> *snip*


Great build!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12888391*
> No problem, didn't mean to pick on you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great build!


I didn't take it bad, no worries


----------



## seven7thirty30

My latest build. Follow the link in my sigature to the build log.


----------



## jclark

loving the result you managed to get out of an ATCS


----------



## seven7thirty30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jclark;12888790*
> loving the result you managed to get out of an ATCS


TY. Not bad for a $100 (the case), right?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seven7thirty30;12888764*
> My latest build. Follow the link in my sigature to the build log.


Awesome job! I love the details like the illuminated floor! Is this log posted anywhere besides OCN? (If not, I'm going to nominate you for Mod Of The Month)

Edit: Nominated.


----------



## Bradford1040

I have to say that is one nice build!!!!! I would love to be able to make mine look as good (not copy) I will also put my vote in for mod of the month:baaasmile


----------



## FreeWillzyx

I did a major upgrade. I pretty much made a whole new loop.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seven7thirty30*


My latest build. Follow the link in my sigature to the build log.


that looks great!


----------



## Mongol

Glad I'm not the only one with 1/2"ID/3/4"OD tubing.







Looks rad.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyclops*


I'm new here. Be nice to me.

IMAGES!


I would really recommend cutting cable holes like I did.
Sorry I didn't feel like pulling my camera out.
By the way the case is empty because I'm RMAing my motherboard.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreeWillzyx*


I did a major upgrade. I pretty much made a whole new loop.
*pics*


Very nice loop!!








You might want to clean the cables up?


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


Glad I'm not the only one with 1/2"ID/3/4"OD tubing.







Looks rad.


I use this too. Ive always thought most people don't use 1/2 either.


----------



## crunchie

Pick me too


----------



## FreeWillzyx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


Very nice loop!!








You might want to clean the cables up?


Lol. Thanks. I know about the cables. I just put it together last night and didn't feel like stressing my brain any more about the cables. Cable management was always difficult for me anyway. It very impressive to see people with nice cables.


----------



## Bradford1040

I got a question, will the EK back plates for the Nvidia cards work with the Koolance water blocks? I wish Koolance made one for the 460's but they don't

And is it needed to get the one slot bracket for for the cards or is it just a looks thing, cause I would rather have the opening from the stock mounts for air flow out of the case!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Do not believe they do. I have the EVGA backplates for mine, but you have to mount them kinda funny and cannot use all of the mounting holes.


----------



## Bradford1040

so I guess that's a no then, well I guess that saves me 50bucks!!! I really liked the look of the back plates, I could fab or mod them to work but for that matter I guess I can make my own but never seen one off if someone has one for the 4xx off please take side top and bottom pictures of it! Thank you


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreeWillzyx*


Lol. Thanks. I know about the cables. I just put it together last night and didn't feel like stressing my brain any more about the cables. Cable management was always difficult for me anyway. It very impressive to see people with nice cables.


I love doing cable management!!


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


I use this too. Ive always thought most people don't use 1/2 either.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


I use this too. Ive always thought most people don't use 1/2 either.


I use 1/2ID 5/8OD.


----------



## FreeWillzyx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


I love doing cable management!!










lol. I don't see how. It makes me want to pull my hair out.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreeWillzyx*


lol. I don't see how. It makes me want to pull my hair out.


I just do.


----------



## xxlawman87xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeWillzyx;12889983*
> I did a major upgrade. I pretty much made a whole new loop.


Looks awesome. Might I suggest (if possible) move your res to a point higher than your pump. that would probably help flow just a bit...Pump wont have to work as hard to get things going.


----------



## FreeWillzyx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxlawman87xx;12895810*
> Looks awesome. Might I suggest (if possible) move your res to a point higher than your pump. that would probably help flow just a bit...Pump wont have to work as hard to get things going.


Thanks, man.

Yeah, the res was something I just couldn't do. I need to make like a little stand for it or get a new res. Where it is now is the only safe place for it where it lined up with screw holes. It was such a pain trying to get the loop started. I had to pick the thing up and spin it upside down to fight gravity.

Pretty much, I'm not done yet. I have to make a few "mods" I guess, but I'm too afraid to just start drilling into the acrylic. I have to actually make a plan.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated (sorry it has been a few days, decided I was gonna use this weekend to do nothing but relax)


----------



## Divineman

So i put some my stuff...just finished a few days ago. Nothing special but for me its really do the job








EK-Multioption x2 res 100
EK-Supreme LT AMD
EK-DCP 2.2
Black water advanced 122 rev.3






Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12897319*
> updated (sorry it has been a few days, decided I was gonna use this weekend to do nothing but relax)


That's where you have been......


----------



## k0rnh0li0

tubing whats tubing got to do with this?


----------



## bundymania

Nice watercolor @Divineman !


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fastsite;12891073*
> I would really recommend cutting cable holes like I did.
> Sorry I didn't feel like pulling my camera out.
> By the way the case is empty because I'm RMAing my motherboard.


I would put these holes in.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Divineman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *k0rnh0li0*


tubing whats tubing got to do with this?


garden tubes







Id-8mm OD-11mm transparent. I used about 3meters.
"Nice watercolor @Divineman !" - thx bundymania









Looking forward, I want to sell those ati's and buy one nvidia, and put a water block on it


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12897319*
> updated (sorry it has been a few days, decided I was gonna use this weekend to do nothing but relax)


i go on ocn to relax


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;12904011*
> i go on ocn to relax


haha, me too, and I did, just not this thread


----------



## R00ST3R

Finished the PSU cover/thing-a-ma-jigger.

First I needed to get my materials ready:









Then I cut, drilled, and drank the materials until they were just right:









Ended up with this:


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;12906961*
> Finished the PSU cover/thing-a-ma-jigger.
> 
> First I needed to get my materials ready:
> 
> Then I cut, drilled, and drank the materials until they were just right:
> 
> Ended up with this:


Very nice looking rig there!


----------



## wermad




----------



## nickbaldwin86

Got tubing!?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Update your thread on the waterblock when you get some time


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4*


Very nice looking rig there!


Thank you. Appreciate your kind words sir.









I have a bit of work to do on redoing the lighting, and some cable cleaning. Having to balance a full time job, full time girlfriend, part time college, and part time computer enthusiast hobby makes for a fragile balance of time & money unfortunately.


----------



## Onions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*





if i may make a suggestiong... having the hoses in front looks terrible in my opinion. Feed them through the back. however i lvoe the psu placement its.... original


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*





I like where you put the PSU, very creative!


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scaz*


I would put these holes in.


Why? My 2 holes work great although I would like to add an 8 pin hole.


----------



## Cyanix

Quote:


> Why? My 2 holes work great


We hear that !


----------



## vulpecula

Here's mine! Second EVGA GTX580 is in the mail too!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulpecula;12916433*
> Here's mine! Second EVGA GTX580 is in the mail too!


wow, did you not want any tubing left over:doh: less tubing will mean higher flow lower temps, minimal but worth it, if only athstetically







killa rig though man


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;12917047*
> wow, did you not want any tubing left over:doh: less tubing will mean higher flow lower temps, minimal but worth it, if only athstetically
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> killa rig though man


there is nothing wrong with how his tubing is, tubing friction is nearly negligible compared to the restriction of the blocks and he was just making sure there were no kinks. I also think it looks cool like that, very flowy and different from your everyday build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;12912043*
> if i may make a suggestiong... having the hoses in front looks terrible in my opinion. Feed them through the back. however i lvoe the psu placement its.... original


Its all about the water and showing the parts off


----------



## Divineman

I put some movie about how I made my water cooling







2 days in 4 minutes









  
 You Tube


----------



## vulpecula

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CH4PZ*


wow, did you not want any tubing left over







less tubing will mean higher flow lower temps, minimal but worth it, if only athstetically 







killa rig though man


I'm idling at about 20-25*C and under load I almost see 70*C. I'm happy with the temps. I wasn't going for any OC'ing records.









In some areas any less tubing meant I was getting kinks. There is also extra so that I can slide the reservoir in and out when filling it. As for the loop of tubing behind the drive-bays, that's actually a drain tube.


----------



## Onions

^very nice


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

nice video, I like the time lapse thing for that. you should post that in it's own thread so it gets a bit more attention.


----------



## mekaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divineman;12920558*
> I put some movie about how I made my water cooling 2 days in 4 minutes
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2kY6peXVSs


terrible music.

put a grill or put 2 more fans on pull on top of that rad, that way you won't accidentally drop object directly on to your rad fins and bend or break it.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

So I actually got my kit installed a couple weeks ago but here it is =D

A mid installation picture:









Fan controller Lamptron FC5v2:









Then you have my new primochill red tubing (7/16" ID, 5/8" OD):









Fill Port/Fill Port hose/Front:

























Then you have my AP-15's which arrived yesterday:









Annnd.. Money shot:


----------



## Hard Line

ok I just finished mine the other day. my first loop here is the work log: http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/976109-corinne-3-0-worklog.html#post12904127


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey, anyone here work on laptops alot? I need help and preferable asap since I need my desk back for homework...

http://www.overclock.net/laptops-notebook-computers/977794-how-do-you-release-type-zif.html


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12924645*
> updated
> 
> hey, anyone here work on laptops alot? I need help and preferable asap since I need my desk back for homework...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/laptops-notebook-computers/977794-how-do-you-release-type-zif.html


solved


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4;12925313*
> solved


haha, kinda...

never got a real solution, just did it the cheater way.


----------



## bundymania

New week - new parts





















































































































Swiftech MCR320 Drive


----------



## toddvj

Not as pretty as a lot of the others here, but...



















3 Swiftech Radiators 1x120, 2x120 and 3x120
Scythe UltraKaze 3000RPM fans x4
Not sure what the top fans are, something I had laying around.
XSPC Reservoir w/Swiftech 655-B fan
Apogee XT CPU waterblock
Komodo HD6900 GPU waterblock (soon to be 2)
Various Fittings, etc.

The Video card that is watercooled now is just a dummy. The card doesn't work, but it was easier to leave it than to run new tubing. Unfortunately, I voided my warranty, so I have to buy new cards. My system will be back to its former glory soon.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

Well found out that PNY SUCKS *** they call them graphic cards that they sell reference! Well I am here to tell you that the cards manufactured on 8.10 are but the ones 10.10 are not! I have been building a watercooling system now for three days because of this little/big problem! I just want people to know before they get to buying gpu water blocks such as I did and now selling one of my pny gtx460 on eBay. I am on my phone and trust me not happy with pny servises they said that it is reference and it is there policy to change the design very often, I asked well how do you expect people to buy aftermarket coolers for them then? Reply is we don't support that! I still asked about the reference design they claim there cards to be, and they replied well I GUESS! They aren't and hung up on me! WOW huh! Nice to know about pny costumer service!

I just bought evga, guess I should of from the begining


----------



## Haze_hellivo

EVGA has the best costumer support and they get their cards directly from nvidia.


----------



## morencyam

Add me to the list! I set up my first loop over the weekend and so far I am loving it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

what reservoir is that? looks pretty cool.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12940143*
> what reservoir is that? looks pretty cool.


Its a lund pom plex. I couldn't find it anywhere in the US so I ordered from over seas. Well worth it in my opinion

Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;12942025*
> Its a lund pom plex. I couldn't find it anywhere in the US so I ordered from over seas. Well worth it in my opinion
> 
> Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


Can you see thru it, i cant tell from the pictures?

Very cool reservoir but expensive with shipping.

EDIT, i see now, its just a black cover that slides over the clear cylinder.


----------



## RED-FROG

May I join the club?










a water cooled Silverstone Raven RV02









(HD6970 & HD6950 - i5 2500K)



I also have a video
[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-f59WhG05R8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-f59WhG05R8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-f59WhG05R8[/ame[/URL]]










I still work on it


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;12945214*
> Can you see thru it, i cant tell from the pictures?
> 
> Very cool reservoir but expensive with shipping.
> 
> EDIT, i see now, its just a black cover that slides over the clear cylinder.


Yes sir. There are some more pictures in my worklog thread. One with no lights on so you can see the water illuminated orange

Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


----------



## munaim1

@ REDFROG

Very nice build!!! Please go here and fill in your rig info http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## masustic

gotta love the fed-ex man


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Wires and tubing finally completely cleaned up (yes I now there are long lengths, but draining this beast is a chore. It holds 1/2 gallon of water.) All that's left is sound dampening below, a big window side panel for the right side and some super intense uv lighting that can power through the led fans above.







Wiring was a pain in the ass in this case. I have never used so many zip ties and ziptie mounts in my life. I have a pile of used up ones from mistakes and redos.


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Wires and tubing finally completely cleaned up (yes I now there are long lengths, but draining this beast is a chore. It holds 1/2 gallon of water.) All that's left is sound dampening below, a big window side panel for the right side and some super intense uv lighting that can power through the led fans above.

*snip*

Wiring was a pain in the ass in this case. I have never used so many zip ties and ziptie mounts in my life. I have a pile of used up ones from mistakes and redos.


Lovely. Did you give up on the phase cooling plans, or is that for your next build?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t-ramp*


Lovely. Did you give up on the phase cooling plans, or is that for your next build?


Nope, they're still in the mix. Just have to get the money for it. Still trying to decide whether I want to prep a phase unit for my dual xeon build in Q4 with dual phase cpu sockets or just get a single for now. hard decision. I'm also dealing with the HOA and seeing if I'm allowed to have a 25 amp breaker installed. It would be nice to actually be able to do laundry and fold on my computer at the same time. I'll need to upgrade that regardless for phase since it'll pull another 700watts+


----------



## RobbSpeed

Just a little something I've been working on this week. My first liquid build on a HAF 932 black.

As much as I'm into computers, the only camera I have is on my phone so please excuse the quality. Leak-tested for about 12 hours.










System is up but my PSU needs to be sleeved so no pic yet of the finished build. I'm about to order that from MDPC, so hope to have it done sometime next week.

EK Full Nickel cpu block
EK 250 Advanced Res
Swiftech MCP655 pump w/ Bitspower Top and Back cover
Primo 7/16 - 5/8 tubing
XSPC 360 Rad with 3 Yate Loons low speed pushing in from top
Bitspower compressions
Distilled water with PT Nuke

Thanks for looking!
Rob


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RobbSpeed*


Just a little something I've been working on this week. My first liquid build on a HAF 932 black.

As much as I'm into computers, the only camera I have is on my phone so please excuse the quality. Leak-tested for about 12 hours.

*snip*

System is up but my PSU needs to be sleeved so no pic yet of the finished build. I'm about to order that from MDPC, so hope to have it done sometime next week.

EK Full Nickel cpu block
EK 250 Advanced Res
Swiftech MCP655 pump w/ Bitspower Top and Back cover
Primo 7/16 - 5/8 tubing
XSPC 360 Rad with 3 Yate Loons low speed pushing in from top
Bitspower compressions
Distilled water with PT Nuke

Thanks for looking!
Rob


Looks great! Personally, I would have the fans pulling and the loop set up a bit differently, but it looks like you've done a good job.


----------



## koven

yeah.. pull works better for an RX rad w/ low speed fans

and tube routing could definitely have been cleaner.. i.e. pump -> gpu -> rad -> cpu -> res

i like the white/black theme


----------



## RobbSpeed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t-ramp*


Looks great! Personally, I would have the fans pulling and the loop set up a bit differently, but it looks like you've done a good job.










I was back and forth on which way to blow the fans. Viewed a lot reasons on why each way has an advantage. At the moment I was about to put them in, I said "---- it, I'll do it this way" lol

As far as the loop goes, I had an idea in my head and ordered the parts to suit. But things weren't fitting how I expected and compressions are costly, so I made it work with what I had









Thanks for the comment (and I guess the rep since I never had one before... lol)


----------



## RobbSpeed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


pump -> gpu -> rad -> cpu -> res

i like the white/black theme


thanks on liking the theme!

I thought it was always best to have pump-rad-cpu, so that the cpu gets the coolest water...

I wanted to route that long tube on the backside of the mobo but it just wasn't going to work with the compressions that I had.

Rob


----------



## eclipseaudio4

I just hope the nickle plating on your blocks survives!

Did you try spinning the pump 180* so that you could get that line behind the tray?


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RobbSpeed*


I thought it was always best to have pump-rad-cpu, so that the cpu gets the coolest water...


the water temp in your loop will equalize after a while so there's really not much difference in having the rad before or after the blocks.. as long as the res is feeding the pump, you're good to go, other than that it's just about having the least/cleanest tubing


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RobbSpeed*


I was back and forth on which way to blow the fans. Viewed a lot reasons on why each way has an advantage. At the moment I was about to put them in, I said "---- it, I'll do it this way" lol


That's not so much the issue as is the balance of overall case airflow. I would have set up the front and rear fans (assuming you have one) to intake and have the radiator fans exhaust.


----------



## RED-FROG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


@ REDFROG

Very nice build!!! Please go here and fill in your rig info http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


thanks for the feedack, much appreciated!








It's my first ever attempt at watercooling. The Raven RV02 is quite a ***** at it, when I bought it I was thinking it would be the ideal candidate (but at the time, around 1 year ago..I didn't ever plan to get water cooling anytime soon).

However, am I the only one not being patient enough to do a 24hours leak check?
I mean, I did those checks like max 1 hour each time I changed something. I don't really think that anything changes even after 24hours when it doesn't have a leak after 10minutes :/ In the forums I see people testing it a lot.

A few hours ago I've changed the pipeing from reservoir->pump->gpu2.
I didn't even do a real leak test this time..just ran it straight ahead with some paper. Red dyed water is easy to see.







(and the EK pipe fittings are great)

Anyone with different experience, like having a leak after days/weeks? o.o

(at my work I use pipes a lot for drinking water and gas supplies. Never do 24h checks there neither.







)

Anyway, this stuff is great fun. I've wanted something to tinker with and this is just perfect. ^^


(water is still filled with lots air in this picture - just launched it)
however I was a little afraid if these 45Â° fittings from phobya would really be leakproof ^^
Plans were different again, wanted to mount the pump directly onto the reservoir but there simply was no room again. >_> The SSDs will be installed above.
lol I just played Crysis2 with those paper towels inside


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12950375*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wiring was a pain in the ass in this case. I have never used so many zip ties and ziptie mounts in my life. I have a pile of used up ones from mistakes and redos.


Ah, what wires


----------



## Dissentience

Moved my whole rig into a HAF 922


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RED-FROG;12951328*
> thanks for the feedack, much appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's my first ever attempt at watercooling. The Raven RV02 is quite a ***** at it, when I bought it I was thinking it would be the ideal candidate (but at the time, around 1 year ago..I didn't ever plan to get water cooling anytime soon).
> 
> However, am I the only one not being patient enough to do a 24hours leak check?
> I mean, I did those checks like max 1 hour each time I changed something. I don't really think that anything changes even after 24hours when it doesn't have a leak after 10minutes :/ In the forums I see people testing it a lot.
> 
> A few hours ago I've changed the pipeing from reservoir->pump->gpu2.
> I didn't even do a real leak test this time..just ran it straight ahead with some paper. Red dyed water is easy to see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and the EK pipe fittings are great)
> 
> Anyone with different experience, like having a leak after days/weeks? o.o
> 
> (at my work I use pipes a lot for drinking water and gas supplies. Never do 24h checks there neither.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Anyway, this stuff is great fun. I've wanted something to tinker with and this is just perfect. ^^
> 
> 
> (water is still filled with lots air in this picture - just launched it)
> however I was a little afraid if these 45° fittings from phobya would really be leakproof ^^
> Plans were different again, wanted to mount the pump directly onto the reservoir but there simply was no room again. >_> The SSDs will be installed above.
> lol I just played Crysis2 with those paper towels inside


leak testing for long periods of time is a fluke in my opion, the real leak testing happens when all the components are actually runing, as the blocks heat up the liquid and tubing there for letting it expand, and thats when leaks appear, so if does not leak in the first 2 hours of system on, i think you are good


----------



## RobbSpeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4;12951102*
> I just hope the nickle plating on your blocks survives!










Not sure what you mean by that. And I don't deny that I'm a total noob at water, so let me know if I should be worried about something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;12951243*
> That's not so much the issue as is the balance of overall case airflow. I would have set up the front and rear fans (assuming you have one) to intake and have the radiator fans exhaust.


I have a front fan that isn't connected at the moment because I'm waiting on a filter for it. I flipped the rad fans to pull up and out now. Front is def going to be intake. You suggest making the rear fan intake as well? Never crossed my mind but the theory makes sense.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12951132*
> the water temp in your loop will equalize after a while so there's really not much difference in having the rad before or after the blocks.. as long as the res is feeding the pump, you're good to go, other than that it's just about having the least/cleanest tubing


Totally agree with the least/cleanest idea. I was bummed when I realized the lengthy tube wouldn't run behind the board. Couple of reasons why it wouldn't. Bet if I had an 800D I'd be more happy. But anyway, it's 3:30a where I live and I just finished reworking the loop. Here ya go!










Rob


----------



## taylorb095

my first water cooling build but i have made a few changes today
this is how it was earlier. silver interior, green tubing, and green dye

















i painted the interior black, threw some led fans in the interior, white tubing, distilled water!!, new pump/res







im happy


----------



## fshizl




----------



## kevink82

Little update the mayhem dye arrived now its looking like i wanted


----------



## driftingforlife

here is mine.


----------



## Bradford1040

well back up! I will have pictures and up date my system info in a bit! must say the swiftech kit and koolance gpu water blocks do make a big difference


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*












WALL-E?
lol
very clean. good job


----------



## grazz1984

My build so far


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Looks great guys, @FIS- Superb as usual, that wiring (or lack of) is amazing.


----------



## tzillian

whats the deal with nickel plating on ek water blocks and pt nuke? has that been fixed yet? do the new gtx 590 blocks still suffer from this problem? doing a build for a friend and this is what he wants so though id check if everything is ok first.

thanks.


----------



## Bradford1040

here are some shots sorry about the fuzziness, took them with my phone!


----------



## Bradford1040

hope I did this right? sorry if I posted twice was not shur how to get more than 5 pics on one message


----------



## MRHANDS

That ram fan you have over the NB sitting on the gpu, is it made of plastic, or is it sitting on something non conductive?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MRHANDS;12966476*
> That ram fan you have over the NB sitting on the gpu, is it made of plastic, or is it sitting on something non conductive?


knew someone would ask, lol!

I could not fit on the ram as the 922 is to short!!! rad hit it. But as I needed my northbridge cooler I used Align (more heli parts lmao) gyro mounting material and some velcro for removing, if god forbid I have a problem!

How does it look? I hate that my camera does not see what I see!!! but tried my best to get some good shots.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12966606*
> How does it look? I hate that my camera does not see what I see!!! but tried my best to get some good shots.


Looks a bit cluttered (wiring at least), but if this is a first time WC'd build, I'd say you have done pretty well


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12965260*
> hope I did this right? sorry if I posted twice was not shur how to get more than 5 pics on one message


You can post more than 5 if you click on the insert image. It the button that looks like mountains.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12967449*
> You can post more than 5 if you click on the insert image. It the button that looks like mountains.


that way I have to grab them from photo bucket right? or some thing similar?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12967465*
> that way I have to grab them from photo bucket right? or some thing similar?


photobucket, imageshack, facebook, etc.

and the limit is 38 per post that way


----------



## masustic

Added my 6950's to my rasa kit. seems to be doing ok so far. Next upgrade will probly be res and pump.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Looks great ^

Love the bottom picture.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tzillian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;12957119*
> Little update the mayhem dye arrived now its looking like i wanted


is that the candy red or uv red dye?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12965260*
> hope I did this right? sorry if I posted twice was not shur how to get more than 5 pics on one message


dont you just live that antec multimedia dual bay unit, its the best thing ever


----------



## masustic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12975449*
> Looks great ^
> 
> Love the bottom picture.


Thanks


----------



## kevink82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;12977065*
> is that the candy red or uv red dye?


its UV red, apparently its a deeper red than candy one, idk


----------



## toddvj

Adding new pics w/my video cards back in.


----------



## jclark

Is that a major kink near the upper rad or I'm imagining?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I see that too, might be a fill port or something.


----------



## toddvj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jclark;12983578*
> Is that a major kink near the upper rad or I'm imagining?


No, you're not imagining. It is a major kink. It has gotten worse (original pic) but will be fixed very soon.


----------



## Aidan

My first loop in my Antec 900


----------



## KillerBeaz

^very nice


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Aidan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBeaz;12985579*
> ^very nice


Thanks









Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## grazz1984

Sorted a better pic out for u all to have a look at, Let me kno what u think.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aidan;12985149*
> My first loop in my Antec 900


For a first loop that looks great


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12986355*
> Sorted a better pic out for u all to have a look at, Let me kno what u think.


You're missing some tubes


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12988002*
> You're missing some tubes


You obviously didn't get the memo that invisible tubing is out now


----------



## Bradford1040

I have to paint my inside black that just looks so much better than mine!


----------



## cigarbug

I have updated by rig album with new pics of water loop and case mods. If you like looking at pictures, you might like these. (no need to update your records Kev).

Just click on album link in sig below.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cigarbug;12989024*
> I have updated by rig album with new pics of water loop and case mods. If you like looking at pictures, you might like these. (no need to update your records Kev).
> 
> Just click on album link in sig below.


WoW nice system dude! I don't even like red but that does look great.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I've just had something odd happen. Whenever my tubing in the lower compartment gets warm (when folding for hours on end) the suction from the pumps collapses the small piece of tubing right before its intake. I fixed it by shortening it and adding a QDC, but damn, I didn't know Dual DDCs were that strong.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12991029*
> I've just had something odd happen. Whenever my tubing in the lower compartment gets warm (when folding for hours on end) the suction from the pumps collapses the small piece of tubing right before its intake. I fixed it by shortening it and adding a QDC, but damn, I didn't know Dual DDCs were that strong.


Yeah, I've heard quite a few people notice that, I'm running thick walled tubing and have never noticed it though. Powerful pumps.

Anyway, here's some updated photos of my rig:





































The piece of tubing going back to the res is not going to stay like that and I plan to get another 5870 instead of the 5850.

Not really happy with any of those images but they will do.

Also, Thanks Kevin!


----------



## RealEyes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;12992912*
> Yeah, I've heard quite a few people notice that, I'm running thick walled tubing and have never noticed it though. Powerful pumps.
> 
> Anyway, here's some updated photos of my rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The piece of tubing going back to the res is not going to stay like that and I plan to get another 5870 instead of the 5850.
> 
> Not really happy with any of those images but they will do.
> 
> Also, Thanks Kevin!


----------



## Ziemerman

Some of the watercooling PCs look really really nice. I was wondering how hard it is setup on of the watercooling solutions? would a beginner to building PCs, like myself, be able do it?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RealEyes;12993086*


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziemerman;12993103*
> Some of the watercooling PCs look really really nice. I was wondering how hard it is setup on of the watercooling solutions? would a beginner to building PCs, like myself, be able do it?


If you were to buy a kit like a Rasa or EK kit you would be able to set one of those up pretty easily. Its not a super hard thing to do, you just have to think logically about things.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;12992912*
> ***snip***
> 
> Also, Thanks Kevin!


no problem  btw, green is my favorite color, I'm digging your build.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziemerman;12993103*
> Some of the watercooling PCs look really really nice. I was wondering how hard it is setup on of the watercooling solutions? would a beginner to building PCs, like myself, be able do it?


watercooling is super easy to setup, just takes time to do.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;12991029*
> I've just had something odd happen. Whenever my tubing in the lower compartment gets warm (when folding for hours on end) the suction from the pumps collapses the small piece of tubing right before its intake. I fixed it by shortening it and adding a QDC, but damn, I didn't know Dual DDCs were that strong.


D5's can do that too







Used to happen to me with Tygon thin-wall, I used a few inches of those spiral coils. No U use 7/16x5/8 Primochill so wall thickness really isn't an issue haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziemerman;12993103*
> Some of the watercooling PCs look really really nice. I was wondering how hard it is setup on of the watercooling solutions? would a beginner to building PCs, like myself, be able do it?


Patience and some mechanical inclination and you'll have no problem. Plus we're all here to help along the way









No need to add this kevin, but here's my temporary box-bench setup while my case is out for paint. I just couldn't bear to go back to stock cooling


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;12995351*
> No need to add this kevin, but here's my temporary box-bench setup while my case is out for paint. I just couldn't bear to go back to stock cooling


looks worthy of being added to me


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12995404*
> updated
> 
> looks worthy of being added to me


If you say so







Case should be back in 7-10 days I hope, currently out with FannBlade getting some Shelby-inspired paint


----------



## Kepi

Just finished my first custom loop .. just leak testing before i connect all the cables ...










Question: I used Indigo Extreme ... in the instructions it says to disconnect the pump for any water cooled pc's .. should i just power up the system with nothing connected and let the cpu heat up? or what other process do i do seeing as how i have my gpu's on the same loop.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12997030*
> updated


dumb question time! why do you keep putting updated? I really am curious sorry if it sound stupid not to know!


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12997107*
> dumb question time! why do you keep putting updated? I really am curious sorry if it sound stupid not to know!


There's a chart on the first page with links to each person's posts, which Kevin updates regularly. The "updated" posts let him know which ones still need added.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12997107*
> dumb question time! why do you keep putting updated? I really am curious sorry if it sound stupid not to know!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;12997154*
> There's a chart on the first page with links to each person's posts, which Kevin updates regularly. The "updated" posts let him know which ones still need added.


yep, it also lets people know that I have added their posts.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;12997193*
> yep, it also lets people know that I have added their posts.


thanks I did not mean anything by it I just did not get what it was for keep looking at the links on his signings lol looking for a updated picture or something, wow now I feel dumb!!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12997218*
> thanks I did not mean anything by it I just did not get what it was for keep looking at the links on his signings lol looking for a updated picture or something, wow now I feel dumb!!!!


his? you mean mine?


----------



## bundymania

newest cpu block from koolance, slightly better than the 360


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Did you break it in and properly test it yet?


----------



## bundymania

yep, test of this block is done


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Awesome. When will/can you post results compared to other blocks?


----------



## bundymania

Well, hopefully soon - atm i´m testing gtx580 blocks and triple rads


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Posting them all at once?


----------



## rubicsphere

I'm already in the club, but here is my latest build. It's my sig rig.


----------



## B3RGY

like 3 new pages every day








hoping to be joining this club soon


----------



## Dissentience

Can someone recommend me a fan controller? I was thinking a Lamptron FC5


----------



## Triangle

I think the screen on the FC5 has bad glare or something...?
I would get the FC6...


----------



## Dissentience

I don't know much about fan controllers... will the FC6's 20w per channel be enough to plug 2 high speed Yate Loons in to one channel?


----------



## Triangle

To get the wattage of the fan you have to multiply the voltage by the amperage.

Volts*Amps=Watts


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;12957119*
> Little update the mayhem dye arrived now its looking like i wanted


is this the candy red dye?


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kepi;12996586*
> Just finished my first custom loop .. just leak testing before i connect all the cables ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question: I used Indigo Extreme ... in the instructions it says to disconnect the pump for any water cooled pc's .. should i just power up the system with nothing connected and let the cpu heat up? or what other process do i do seeing as how i have my gpu's on the same loop.[/QUOTE]
> 
> what's up with the cpu -> rad tube? surely that could be shortened


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tzillian

so has EK fixed the issue with nickel plating and pt nuke yet? would the new gtx 590 blocks still suffer from cracking?


----------



## jclark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tzillian*


so has EK fixed the issue with nickel plating and pt nuke yet? would the new gtx 590 blocks still suffer from cracking?


?!
Never heard anything like this before, got 2 blocks with nickel and soon gonna change my full copper block to a nickel/acetal... should I be worried?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jclark*


?!
Never heard anything like this before, got 2 blocks with nickel and soon gonna change my full copper block to a nickel/acetal... should I be worried?


I'd be a bit concerned, there's no way to tell except time


----------



## Arksniper

My HAF 932 with my fixed R3E, CCFL Black lights and some better cable management. (bye bye Formula). Not the purtiest out there but not bad for a kid on a college budget (dam tuition taking away from a sexy @$$ build)


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Can someone recommend me a fan controller? I was thinking a Lamptron FC5


The FC5 is a beast, it can handle anything you throw at it. They fixed the glare problem.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


The FC5 is a beast, it can handle anything you throw at it. They fixed the glare problem.


FC6 is already on the way


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


The FC5 is a beast, it can handle anything you throw at it. They fixed the glare problem.


yeah but now it is called the FC5V2 so don't buy the FC5 make shore its the V2 one

And the fc6 is on there site as already made and for sale if I am not mistaken so is FC8


----------



## Kepi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


what's up with the cpu -> rad tube? surely that could be shortened


It is a bit on the long side i will most likely shorten it once my new mobo and cpu come in (my chiv burned out so I took the liberty to just buy a Asus sabertooth and 2500k)

Posted from my Motorola Atrix with Tapatalk


----------



## kingofyo1

my new additions
  
 You Tube


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.

looks like you need some anti-cyclone in your res man.


----------



## Bradford1040

god that case looks so big, like the kid could fit in it lol! my mid tower looks so dam small compared to all your guys! I guess that was why I had such a hard time fitting every thing in!


----------



## logan666

heres my raven 2 with i5 and sli 460s


----------



## Yokes29

Hey everyone!
Finally finished my 2nd rig here. May i join the club? This i s my very first water cooled rig (well except the 3rd card, its has an AXP







)

So....from this:









To this: --->


----------



## jclark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13003418*
> I'd be a bit concerned, there's no way to tell except time


Any links to results of PT-Nuke + Ek's nickel?


----------



## Indulgence

this is my very first post in this forums but been lurking for quite some time now.. this gallery inspires me so i just want to share it with you guys.


----------



## Aidan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence;13007371*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is my very first post in this forums but been lurking for quite some time now.. this gallery inspires me so i just want to share it with you guys.


Great attention to detail with your colour scheme, i love it







Your loop is really nicely laid out too, no crazy long tubing or weird angles.


----------



## Indulgence

*@ AIDAN :*

thank you sir. kinda lost with the mb's theme though.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yokes29;13006797*
> Hey everyone!
> Finally finished my 2nd rig here. May i join the club? This i s my very first water cooled rig (well except the 3rd card, its has an AXP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> So....from this:
> 
> To this: --->


The ONLY thing missing is that OCN sticker! Hahahaha... But seriously, nice job.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence;13007371*
> this is my very first post in this forums but been lurking for quite some time now.. this gallery inspires me so i just want to share it with you guys.


Very nicely done... Clean as can be.


----------



## Indulgence

*@ KAHBROHN :*

thank you.


----------



## raZel

UPDATE :
- 2nd GTX 480 installed
- New res installed
- Extra 3 x 2gb 16000 G.Skill ram + Fan installed
- Loop Re-done!!

*BEFORE*










*AFTER*










*Mods on the way!*


















Im going to be sleeving ALL my cables, 3/4 in black with 1/4 Blue highlights
Also going to change to a White tubing - Maybe new barbs.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## grazz1984

Small update. Just waiting for my rad then can add rest of tubing


----------



## grazz1984

[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Indulgence*


*@ KAHBROHN :*

thank you.











now I have to paint my 922! you make mine look like poo! lmao

Very nice, how did you get the 240 up top in the center? mine hits the ram!


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


Very nice, how did you get the 240 up top in the center? mine hits the ram!


Mine too, I had to mount the rad off center. Maybe on certain motherboards the RAM is lower down?


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grazz1984*












theres a psu in there?


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B3RGY*


theres a psu in there?


Waiting for HX620 to be deliverd should be here within next few days will get more pics as build progresses


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grazz1984*


Waiting for HX620 to be deliverd should be here within next few days will get more pics as build progresses










Oh








i thought it was just such great cable management or something


----------



## Dissentience

He's got his whole PSU gutted and mounted behind the motherboard tray


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


He's got his whole PSU gutted and mounted behind the motherboard tray










HAHA! nah ive put all my extenders in read for psu to be installed, if i leave them laying around in this house my kids will get hold of them and distroy them


----------



## -javier-

I posted before but this is the NEW UPDATE to my rig, comments are welcome.

Before
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8921498


----------



## Triangle

I have never liked that case.....


----------



## Bradford1040

question how fast is he cooling fluid going to evaporate??? I just installed my system last couple of days and just looked and the res is down like a inch?

I think all the air was out after the 3rd day so why is it down that far all of a sudden? or is that normal and no I have NO leaks!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


question how fast is he cooling fluid going to evaporate??? I just installed my system last couple of days and just looked and the res is down like a inch?

I think all the air was out after the 3rd day so why is it down that far all of a sudden? or is that normal and no I have NO leaks!


There was probably a bit of air still bleeding out is all. It happens.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Its a long time ago I've been here








But I'm planning on going for watercooling again.

What do you guys thing about this(looks and overkill):
Heatkiller 3.0 LT
Feser 1/2 id white
Black ice gt stealth 240 + 120 black
Laing D5-mcp655
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Rev2
And some destilled water with anti corrosion, clamps and fittings.
Is there any part in this list which might cause problems?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL;13015174*
> Its a long time ago I've been here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm planning on going for watercooling again.
> 
> What do you guys thing about this(looks and overkill):
> Heatkiller 3.0 LT
> Feser 1/2 id white
> Black ice gt stealth 240 + 120 black
> Laing D5-mcp655
> Swiftech MCRES-Micro Rev2
> And some destilled water with anti corrosion, clamps and fittings.
> Is there any part in this list which might cause problems?


Don't see anything wrong there at all Bastiaan. If you're going with barbs, might want to consider using 7/16's" i.d. tubing







.


----------



## Arksniper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL;13015174*
> Its a long time ago I've been here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm planning on going for watercooling again.
> 
> What do you guys thing about this(looks and overkill):
> Heatkiller 3.0 LT
> Feser 1/2 id white
> Black ice gt stealth 240 + 120 black
> Laing D5-mcp655
> Swiftech MCRES-Micro Rev2
> And some destilled water with anti corrosion, clamps and fittings.
> Is there any part in this list which might cause problems?


Only thing you might wanna look at is the EK HF Supreme/Koolance 370/XSPC Rasa cpu blocks over that HK.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arksniper;13016443*
> Only thing you might wanna look at is the EK HF Supreme/Koolance 370/XSPC Rasa cpu blocks over that HK.


what is the best cpu block at the moment?? I am using the Apogee XT and it seems to do the trick but is there a much better one or are they about the sme as the one I have?


----------



## MURDoctrine

From what I've read the best is the EK Supreme HF but I'm still a wc noobie.


----------



## Onions

they are all about the same a few have less restriction a few have slightly better temps but more or less teh same


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;13016340*
> Don't see anything wrong there at all Bastiaan. If you're going with barbs, might want to consider using 7/16's" i.d. tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I still need to find out the best way to do the tubing.
If I go for 7/16' tubing and I use 1/2' barbs I can do it without hose clamps right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arksniper;13016443*
> Only thing you might wanna look at is the EK HF Supreme/Koolance 370/XSPC Rasa cpu blocks over that HK.


I've been looking at that block too, and I like the looks.
I'm going to take a look at some reviews, its 15 euro's more than the heatkiller 3.0 LT over here, but it also supports more sockets.

Thanks for the info guys









I'm going to use it for this build.


----------



## trevorb05

Here's My Rig:


















Please feel free to comment!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL;13019377*
> I still need to find out the best way to do the tubing.
> If I go for 7/16' tubing and I use 1/2' barbs I can do it without hose clamps right?


That's discretionary. I ran my system clampless (before the compression fittings) for about a month w/ no issues. I've had one barb running clampless for about 9 months too. I trust the seal that 7/16's provides over 1/2" barbs.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trevorb05;13019397*
> Here's My Rig:
> 
> Please feel free to comment!


I like it...


----------



## bundymania

new improved version of the EK GTX580 Waterblock:










and the new Supreme LTX


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13012205*
> now I have to paint my 922! you make mine look like poo! lmao
> 
> Very nice, how did you get the 240 up top in the center? mine hits the ram!


here's a top view of my case..










as you can see, it's a little bit off in the center.. and that made the difference.







ram clips clearance, ok.

on my first version, mine also hits the ram clips, but managed to put the rad up there without modding.. have a look,

(rad mounted)









(..and the trick?)




































..was really in a desperate situation so i pushed whatever possible act to put that freaking rad up there and to avoid the clips.


----------



## jclark

bundy, any ETA on the new Supreme?


----------



## bundymania

The block is already available in some european shops like Aquatuning and i guess within next week in the states. The Acetal version is listed @ PPC


----------



## jclark

I'm guessing the replacement for the Supreme HF isn't out though?


----------



## bundymania

Hmm, you mean the new mounting material ?

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek-cpu-easy-mount-hf-nickel.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

90% done


----------



## B3RGY

I was wondering, can i fit a 140x4 rad or even a 120x5 in athe bottem of a silverstone raven RV.02? it think a 600 rad will need a little modding but the 560 rad will be wider, so would that be better?


----------



## eclipseaudio4

Is it just me or are 90% of these on Asus boards


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13025356*
> I was wondering, can i fit a 140x4 rad or even a 120x5 in athe bottem of a silverstone raven RV.02? it think a 600 rad will need a little modding but the 560 rad will be wider, so would that be better?


I have no idea, you could check it if you have the dimensions though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4;13025696*
> Is it just me or are 90% of these on Asus boards


There are a few asus boards, but not for me








So I'm one of the 10%


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eclipseaudio4;13025696*
> Is it just me or are 90% of these on Asus boards


ASUS or EVGA, cause they have the sexiest full bloks


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13025356*
> I was wondering, can i fit a 140x4 rad or even a 120x5 in athe bottem of a silverstone raven RV.02? it think a 600 rad will need a little modding but the 560 rad will be wider, so would that be better?


It is 605mm long in the bottom of the RV-02, width is not an issue


----------



## JRHudson

Hey everyone, just wanted to show you guys my recently finish build.




































If you like the build an wanna see some other great builds please come vote for it in the mod of the month poll here:
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/964871-march-mod-month-contest-thread-poll.html


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;13026493*
> It is 605mm long in the bottom of the RV-02, width is not an issue


----------



## L36

Here is my updated loop, decided to add my 6970 to it.
Cable management or looks are not the best but the performance from the OC and temps are great.

















After about 1 hour of torture.


----------



## Kahbrohn

If temps are good, then don't worry about the looks. Tell people that you were going for the surreal Dali look!

Good going BTW... How does that Xonar perform? Was looking at it when I went for the X-Fi Pro.


----------



## B3RGY

any one? need a cheap, huge rad, lol


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRHudson;13026672*
> Hey everyone, just wanted to show you guys my recently finish build.
> 
> If you like the build an wanna see some other great builds please come vote for it in the mod of the month poll here:
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/964871-march-mod-month-contest-thread-poll.html


lol I really do like it but at first I thought it was a coffee pot lol!!! Not at all picking on it just it loaded the page on the last shot for some reason and with out seeing the others I really thought someone posted a coffee maker


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13028187*
> any one? need a cheap, huge rad, lol


what do you have? or was that a joke that I missed.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13028187*
> any one? need a cheap, huge rad, lol


Almost sounds like you got it off a Mack truck or something.


----------



## L36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13028132*
> If temps are good, then don't worry about the looks. Tell people that you were going for the surreal Dali look!
> 
> Good going BTW... How does that Xonar perform? Was looking at it when I went for the X-Fi Pro.


Its pretty good value for the cost, only problem is that its EAX emulating is terrible.
It natively supports EAX 2 but can software emulate up to 5, but that emulation needs serious work. I turned it off so no big deal.
Other than that its good stuff, the drivers are great but for the EAX part, sounds great with my 555s foam modded.


----------



## amantonas

Here's mine, looks a lot like a pile of junk right now because of the tubing. I'm trying to keep it kind of classy looking, and that braided tubing kind of just ruined the whole thing. Does anyone have any recommendation on what I can do to make it look better? Also, what tubing color would go well with what I have in there?


----------



## Mongol

Looks great if you ask me...clean.

I would go with a combination of blue and white tubing to match the sleeving.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Nice Amantonas.

Just keep an eye out on the braided tubing. I can't remember where (if here or in a different forum) where I read that that particular tubing can be prone to stiffening up and becoming hard to manage later on. I have always like the looks of that braided tube though. I just shied away when i read that comment.


----------



## amantonas

It's definitely stiffer than when I got it about 3 months ago, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. It won't be good for compression fittings, but if you use it with barbs, a really tight worm-drive hose clamp will keep it on. As soon as you unscrew the clamp, though, it'll come right off the barb.


----------



## Leaps-from-Shadows

I'm about to join the Club! Looking like tomorrow some time...

All the parts:









Half-finished ... just need the lick-wid, toobin' and da blawk, plus some powah:









Will be added beside this-here ultimate machine:









Installin' mah fixed B3 board at the same time:


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amantonas*


Here's mine, looks a lot like a pile of junk right now because of the tubing. I'm trying to keep it kind of classy looking, and that braided tubing kind of just ruined the whole thing. Does anyone have any recommendation on what I can do to make it look better? Also, what tubing color would go well with what I have in there?


I'd mod the case to fit your external rad in the bottom compartment then go with some more white tubing or blue as mentioned before. Primoflex is the shizzle.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Leaps-from-Shadows*


I'm about to join the Club! Looking like tomorrow some time...

All the parts:


wow I thought I had trouble fitting my stuff in, you are putting that in a haf 912?


----------



## Leaps-from-Shadows

No, the radiator stand will be connected to the 912 only by the tubes to the CPU block and a Molex extension. It will either sit directly beside the case, or I might have them in a wide inverted-V shape behind the monitor.


----------



## R00ST3R

First off, I decided to give OCN a more prominent position on the front of the case







.









Finished up cleaning up the cables (the best I could mind you) and put in some spot LED's.
































^Looks like I need to dust my tubes a bit^


----------



## Aidan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amantonas*


Here's mine, looks a lot like a pile of junk right now because of the tubing. I'm trying to keep it kind of classy looking, and that braided tubing kind of just ruined the whole thing. Does anyone have any recommendation on what I can do to make it look better? Also, what tubing color would go well with what I have in there?










Is that GPU sagging loadsss or is it just me or the camera angle?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Hey has anyone tried these before? Link Thinking about trying them on my 460's.


----------



## Johnsen

Im not sure it would be enough for the coolin the rams...


----------



## MURDoctrine

Um its a gpu only block....thats the point. I'm pretty sure there is no "FULL" cover block for the 460 other than the Koolance and none of these will work on one of my cards. The others just use an extended piece that passively cools the vram. I plan on putting some vram heatsinks on the cards.


----------



## amantonas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


Hey has anyone tried these before? Link Thinking about trying them on my 460's.


I have that same one on my 5850, except it's this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29681

Temps always stay around 32 or 33. Just make sure you get some ramsinks, and you're good to go.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amantonas*


I have that same one on my 5850, except it's this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=29681

Temps always stay around 32 or 33. Just make sure you get some ramsinks, and you're good to go.


Awesome good to know. Should there be a difference between the acrylic one and the acetal one performance and longevity wise? Read a review with it on the 480 and it performed right along with the Swiftech MCW60. Believe it was the acetal one though. Thanks.


----------



## amantonas

There probably won't be a huge difference. Maybe a little though.


----------



## bundymania

Hey Guys, today i just wanna show you this prototype of a dual laing metal top from Marc (liquidextasy.de) ItÂ´s not sure, if he ever can produce it for the mass market, because he only has a little "machine park" and such a top will cost about 60-70 eur or more...i guess


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amantonas*


Here's mine, looks a lot like a pile of junk right now because of the tubing. I'm trying to keep it kind of classy looking, and that braided tubing kind of just ruined the whole thing. Does anyone have any recommendation on what I can do to make it look better? Also, what tubing color would go well with what I have in there?


Nice work. However, I'd get rid of the external radiator when you redo your loop.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Hey Guys, today i just wanna show you this prototype of a dual laing metal top from Marc (liquidextasy.de) ItÂ´s not sure, if he ever can produce it for the mass market, because he only has a little "machine park" and such a top will cost about 60-70 eur or more...i guess


That looks... solid.


----------



## bundymania

Yeah, weights more than 1kg


----------



## TheNutzRutz

Hey peeps

here are some pics of my rig

DUST IS MY BIGGEST ENEMY i have to regularly brush and hoover out this thing


----------



## Dr.GumbyM.D.

This is my old 939 3700+ NF4, 7800GT setup:










Right now I'm running an entirely new setup, new case, and everything. I'm on an H50 now, but don't have pics to show. I'll post them soon. I've already ordered new watercooling stuff to go back to a real custom loop, so I'll again add pictures when I get that up and running. I'm wondering whether to use the old MCP650, which still works great and then sell off the 120mm Swiftech rad and use the old pump or use my newly bought pump (mcp355 w/ reservoir). My ultimate hope is to get CPU and crossfire 6950s on one loop, but I only have the funds now to do small changes and only have one 6950 now.

EDIT: updates

New watercooling setup:









Needed more room for more watercooling:









First revision of new watercooling:









It was watercooled on one GPU for a little while, but I didn't bother taking pics. But with 2 watercooled GPUs, pics were a must:


----------



## bundymania

*Videoclip:*






http://www.alphacool.com/products_new.php/XTCsid/splu16kjan11k55cu6bb5fvvq4ruf99d


----------



## derickwm

Tight pants, just became tighter.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Bundy... You KNOW you are on the edge of harrassment, right? Those copper fittings look so nice!!! (They are copper, right?) I almost dare say they look better than the black fittings.

BTW... You shouldn't carry around so many fittings like that. You may strain a muscle. Here... let me carry them for you!

(As Bundy hands over the heavy load to Kahbrohn... Kah runs off into the mists vanishing from all sight!)


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13028241*
> what do you have? or was that a joke that I missed.


not a joke, cheapest rad i could find that was 560mm+ was this
http://www.svc.com/rad-3475.html
im looking to put it into the bottom of a silverstone raven rv02


----------



## B3RGY

Bundy, hand over your fittings


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## repo_man

Those copper fittings look WONDERFUL! *swoons*









Edit: http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p426_Barb-Fitting-external-thread-G1-4--on-13mm---copper-plated.html

DO WANT!!1!


----------



## bundymania

One more


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13039389*
> One more


Very good Bundy .. xD

I put some pictures of my brand new .... Dimastech








































































Saludos!.


----------



## repo_man

^^^Very sexy! Love all the flat black.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

FULL BUILD


----------



## Dissentience

Got my FC6!


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man;13039613*
> ^^^Very sexy! Love all the flat black.


Thanks....LOL


----------



## B3RGY

er loko is that custom?


----------



## B3RGY

and will this pump be enough if im doing a 560mm rad, gpu, and cpu loop?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9684/ex-pmp-88/XSPC_X20_200_Acrylic_Pump_Reservoir_Combo_-_Short_Profile_-_Black_Silver.html?tl=g30c107s152


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13039945*
> and will this pump be enough if im doing a 560mm rad, gpu, and cpu loop?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9684/ex-pmp-88/XSPC_X20_200_Acrylic_Pump_Reservoir_Combo_-_Short_Profile_-_Black_Silver.html?tl=g30c107s152


I would recommend the Dual bay-750. I have it and run a ton and have great flow. it is 750 lp/h while that one you are looking at is only 200 lp/h

While I would say yes it will do it, I think it would be better to get the 750, if you have room for the 560 I would think you would have room for the 750


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;13039589*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/CENTER]
> 
> Saludos!.


What case is that.. holy moly.!!!!


----------



## KillerBeaz

pretty sure its the dimastech tech bench


----------



## ScurK

Italian benchtable... just google Dimastech!









Really legit looking rig, kudos to you sir!


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Thanks all


----------



## grazz1984

Hey ive just found a n/b block for my mobo, i just wanted to kno how and were to put it in my loop pic below is my loop so far. From my gpu would i go rad>n/b>cpu>res?

Thanks


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13039389*
> One more


That's it! I am printing up a t-shirt that says "I HATE BUNDY!"

Just kidding...

What would be awesome is if instead of "silver" colored tubing (the antimicrobial tubing) it were copper color tinted to match the copper fittings. that would give it that real "plumbing" look.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

where can those fittings be purchased. I know a friend who is going for that look and would make his life much much easier.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBeaz;13040084*
> pretty sure its the dimastech tech bench


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;13040085*
> Italian benchtable... just google Dimastech!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really legit looking rig, kudos to you sir!


Thanks guys.. Google'n now!!!


----------



## liljoejoe54

Here is my setup I just finished last night.....


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


I would recommend the Dual bay-750. I have it and run a ton and have great flow. it is 750 lp/h while that one you are looking at is only 200 lp/h









While I would say yes it will do it, I think it would be better to get the 750, if you have room for the 560 I would think you would have room for the 750


ya putting the 560 in the bottom of a white SS raven, gunna be cold im guessing


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

The routing of that system confuses me.


----------



## liljoejoe54

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


The routing of that system confuses me.


Mine?


----------



## VSpecII

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


The routing of that system confuses me.


Optical illusion FIS. One of those top tubes on the res goes to a fill port on top of the case.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VSpecII;13040670*
> Optical illusion FIS. One of those top tubes on the res goes to a fill port on top of the case.


I got got that once I saw the other pics, but curious why it's routed that way in an 800d. The pump up front seems rather annoying if another gpu is to be installed. Would have put the pump directly under the res.

Clean build tho. Definitely a solid start to a major loop.


----------



## liljoejoe54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13040701*
> I got got that once I saw the other pics, but curious why it's routed that way in an 800d. The pump up front seems rather annoying if another gpu is to be installed. Would have put the pump directly under the res.
> 
> Clean build tho. Definitely a solid start to a major loop.


Thanks! I wanted to put the pump under the res but I couldnt figure out a way to get it to fit. I originally had the res up higher but then I wasnt able to install my fill tube without a major kink in it, plus the hose wouldof been pretty much touching the fans on the radiator. I also tried to mount the pump in the lower tray next to the PSU but it if I mounted it there, I couldnt figure out a way to configure the hoses. I really dont like my pump in the spot I have it either but it seems like my only choice.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

All those those who hate Bundy due to his massive collection of awesome fittings and water blocks raise yer hand.

*raises hand*


----------



## bundymania

haha, i better don´t tell or show something about my other (expensive) hobbies


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13041520*
> All those those who hate Bundy due to his massive collection of awesome fittings and water blocks raise yer hand.
> 
> *raises hand*


*raises hand*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13041607*
> haha, i better don´t tell or show something about my other (expensive) hobbies


Just kidding... I love seeing your posts on new and cool things. Those copper fittings just struck me as that is what I want for my rig now!!!

What other expensive hobbies???









Show us!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13040532*
> ya putting the 560 in the bottom of a white SS raven, gunna be cold im guessing


You want a big rad? This is what you need.


----------



## GoodInk

bundymania I just want to know what you do with all this killer stuff you get. Do you have to give it back, sell it, do you use it all?


----------



## wermad

Bundymania, I envy thee


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## v1ral

That last rig only had two DIMMs.. or does my eyes play tricks on me.?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Ok I'm official now lol. Got my Rasa Kit today and everything is installed. GPU's will be going under in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;12881839*
> well check to see if the old creative sound blaster live 5.1 will work with your system, if it does PM me your address I have one I am not using


sounblaster live cards dont operate in windows 7, i wanted to use mine so bad for the nostalgia


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge;13043770*
> sounblaster live cards dont operate in windows 7, i wanted to use mine so bad for the nostalgia


are you kidding that sucks I was giving mine to somebody they said it would work for them in w7 I got to tell him


----------



## xgeko2

=D I finally got 1 single photo of mine Been a while since I posted in this thread nothing fancy just a haf932 with a xspc rasa kit =) O yea crappy cellphone camera shoot too!! =p


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Leaps-from-Shadows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leaps-from-Shadows;13030604*
> I'm about to join the Club! Looking like tomorrow some time...
> 
> All the parts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Half-finished ... just need the lick-wid, toobin' and da blawk, plus some powah:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be added beside this-here ultimate machine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installin' mah fixed B3 board at the same time:


I became official roughly 15 minutes before this post!




























Yes, it looks like crap right now, but I was too excited to get it up and running. Yes, I do need to dust. And yes, I am quite enjoying the new much lower load temps -- shaved 25ºC off the top.

Setup consists of:
1x EK-KIT H3O Supreme HF 360 (funny story -- I actually ordered the 240 kit but FrozenCPU mistakenly sent me the 360 kit. That's why I'm using the external stand and such.)
1x Feser Aqua Bi-distilled Water (loop took almost the entire liter)
1x Feser Base Corrosion Blocker (may not need it but I put it in anyway)
1x IandH Silver KillCoil
1x Phobya Triple 3x120 Radiator Stand "Bench Edition"
1x FrozenCPU Deluxe Multi Power Port (divides one 4-pin Molex input into 12v, 7v, and 5v 3-pin outputs - four of each)
1x FrozenCPU 4-pin Molex extension - 36"
4x FrozenCPU 3-pin extension - 12" (three fans plus pump)


----------



## Bradford1040

let me know how this works (FrozenCPU Deluxe Multi Power Port) I was looking at it but wasn't shore if it was one of those wish I never bought things


----------



## Leaps-from-Shadows

It's working great right now, but I wouldn't expect problems on the first day. I'm only using the four 12v connectors.

It appears to be a well-made circuit board, has a red LED to denote power, and has double-sided tape for mounting.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13047912*
> 
> (snip)
> (snip)
> (snip)


More "Bundy-hate-posts"????? The sad part is Bundy... you are loving it!!!!


----------



## Onions

lol iwant your job *just saying*


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13048377*
> lol iwant your job *just saying*


That's not a job! That's like being a professional athlete. You get paid for doing what you really like!

Ohhhh the envy!


----------



## Onions

lol i know im jsut jelly


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Water part is done, so I won't update anymore, for now


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13050658*
> Water part is done, so I won't update anymore


haha, I'll believe that when the world actually ends in 2012


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13050895*
> updated
> 
> haha, I'll believe that when the world actually ends in 2012


lol, I think I can get by with two 480mm radiators


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13041762*
> You want a big rad? This is what you need.


has to fit in the bottom of a raven RV02








EDIT: kevingreen, whats the biggest completely internal rad in this thread? I want to try and get an award


----------



## wermad

Get an automotive rad, im sure you'll get the award for "biggest rad"


----------



## B3RGY

heh yeah but those are usually square right? need it to be pretty rectangular if its gunna fit in a raven


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I don't think you could get the award for largest internal rad using a raven


----------



## B3RGY

i mean like a single rad, putting a 140x4 rad in the bottom of it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13052475*
> I don't think you could get the award for largest internal rad using a raven


this


----------



## Freakn

Currently have 2x360's and a 120 in mine









Want more though


----------



## kevingreenbmx

1x360,2x240, and 1x120


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13053992*
> 1x360,2x240, and 1x120


Yeah rain on my parade









Been able to do this without cutting any major holes in the case, just relocated and custom mount my HDD's (currently 5 internally but will 6 shortly)


----------



## wermad

2x RX480 inside


----------



## pcnoob1

Nothing special here. Just 1 XSPC RX360 And Feser 360 Xchanger.


----------



## VeryChilled

haha is there an award for the youngest member?
just waiting for my UV cathodes to arrive before i post mine.


----------



## raZel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raZel;13009272*
> UPDATE :
> - 2nd GTX 480 installed
> - New res installed
> - Extra 3 x 2gb 16000 G.Skill ram + Fan installed
> - Loop Re-done!!
> 
> *BEFORE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *AFTER*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Mods on the way!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im going to be sleeving ALL my cables, 3/4 in black with 1/4 Blue highlights
> Also going to change to a White tubing - Maybe new barbs.


Woot, Just ordered Some nice new 120mm fans... Nexus Real silent (white)

Should look awesome once i change the tubing over to white ...


----------



## bundymania




----------



## wermad

^^^ How does it compare to the aftermarket offerings?


----------



## bundymania

Well, count with this baby on the very top of the charts ! But...swiftech like...flowrate is not so good, because of the tight fin structure.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Is it also too thick to be single slot? That's a definite mark against any watercooled-card in my opinion


----------



## bundymania

Don´t worry, a black nickel plated singleslot bracket comes with the block, maybe i will mount it later on


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13060662*
> Don´t worry, a black nickel plated singleslot bracket comes with the block, maybe i will mount it later on


I thought so, but I didn't see it on your bench so I wanted to make sure.


----------



## Bradford1040

I hate you stop flaunting it, I am like a crack head when it comes to computer parts lmao, you should see me if I know I have something but don't remember where it is, I tear the house apart. I even had a girlfriend one time leave because of a fight with each other over the mess of computer parts that I pulled out trying to find a molex to sata adapter lol. I got some thing that will make you all very jealous!!!! I will have the biggest baddest computer on the block, and challenge anyone to a bench dual with this new baby My new bad boy!!!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Challenge accepted. Goal is lowest score right? Time to head home and pick up Dad's one and underclock it.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13061508*
> Challenge accepted. Goal is lowest score right? Time to head home and pick up Dad's one and underclock it.


nope are you joking I will blaze over any I7 out there with that puppy did you read the spec's it has 1.8ghz lol now beat that


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Damn that thing's ballin! Gotta pick one up just to screw with ppl


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13061539*
> Damn that thing's ballin! Gotta pick one up just to screw with ppl


you just know one of us is going to buy it and overclock the hell out of it and watercool it, remove the ion chip and sodder on a gf110 chip lol


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

needs to be done!!!


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13060510*


Your sig says GTX 480. Is this a 480 with the 580 block?

Because my situation is; I have one GTX 480 Hydro Copper and the other one is air cooled. I cannot find a hydro copper block ANYWHERE. EVGA only sells the Hydro Copper 2 block for 580s


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timechange01;13061663*
> Your sig says GTX 480. Is this a 480 with the 580 block?


bundy tests wc parts so he has way more than just stated by his sig. Just search the thread for all of his pics. It's absurd.


----------



## Bradford1040

if you call performance pc I think they have a hydro copper block for the 480 but it is not on the web site or its frozen can't remember which one but one of the water cooling places had one left over but took it off the site because of low stock and could not get them anymore, plus you do know the 580 block does fit the 480 (same card)


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13061795*
> plus you do know the 580 block does fit the 480 (same card)


Can anybody confirm this though?

I will try contacting performance PCs now for 480 HC block. Thanks


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

it does fit, but not properly, the heights of different parts of the block don't match up perfectly


----------



## Timechange01

Matthew from EVGA Tech Support believes it wont fit

"The cards have a different PCB, the 580 block will not fit the 480. "

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=953558


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Has to do with heights. The 480 block fits the 580 but there is a ton of room. The 580 block doesn't have enough room so it won't work


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Nothing special but my watercooled 600T.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

@ above, Looks nice and clean









I guess the pictures say enough

















































































Also, I was shocked by the quality from these things:

















I didnt expect too much, but this really is garbage...


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*


I didnt expect too much, but this really is garbage...


What are those? I can't tell.


----------



## Bradford1040

I really cant say if if the swiftech/evga block works but the dimensions of the ek block and bitspower and heatkiller are the same. now that could be only because they suck at updating there sites or it can be because its the same block just different logo. but I am not saying as if I really know just things that I have heard and seen from others on OCN. If I am wrong I am wrong and very sorry but I don't think I am at this point.

does any one have a 480 and a 580 to look at it and see if the pcb is the same? besides color


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


What are those? I can't tell.


I'm sorry, they are Phobya Shroud Plexi 120x120x20mm


----------



## Timechange01

Updated my rig a little bit.


----------



## Onions

need to get that second one under and sleeve those cables


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


need to get that second one under and sleeve those cables


Hehe yup I plan to soon. Just saving up the money at the moment


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## OrangeSunday

Very nice Timechange!


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OrangeSunday*


Very nice Timechange!


Thanks mate


----------



## Gualichu04

Enzotech SCW-REV.A
SILVERSTONE FM121 120mm Case Fan
Gigabyte 3D Galaxy II Original Radiator new pump with Res. was 20$ old died.
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...px?pid=2341#kf
The fan controllers came with the fans i just took one o the brackets and cut holes for the other 2 controllers and mounted it where it rests now.
I haven't thought out a way to mount the radiator to the top and haven't found the motivation. One of the screws broke in the mounting holes and mounting it on the back was a noticeable increase in temperatures so, i took it off and just wired the fan to the top with controls. Any suggestions for top mount pm me please.
I hope you enjoy for a budget system.


----------



## JE Nightmare

holy crap, there is a bunch of snakes in your case!
(oh wait, there's just no cable management.)


----------



## MURDoctrine

Ok so I've decided that I'm going to be buying the EK universal gpu blocks for my 460's. My only question is if there will be a performance difference between going with the clear acrylic topped one or the acetal topped one? Both are nickel plated.

Links to both.

Acrylic
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12269/ex-blc-844/EK_VGA_Supreme_HF_Universal_High_Performance_VGA_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_Nickel.html?tl=g30c87

Acetal
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12270/ex-blc-845/EK_VGA_Supreme_HF_Universal_High_Performance_VGA_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_NickelAcetal.html?tl=g30c87

*Edit*
Did some more reading and decided on acetal. Less prone to cracking.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;13066300*
> Ok so I've decided that I'm going to be buying the EK universal gpu blocks for my 460's. My only question is if there will be a performance difference between going with the clear acrylic topped one or the acetal topped one? Both are nickel plated.
> 
> Links to both.
> 
> Acrylic
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12269/ex-blc-844/EK_VGA_Supreme_HF_Universal_High_Performance_VGA_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_Nickel.html?tl=g30c87
> 
> Acetal
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12270/ex-blc-845/EK_VGA_Supreme_HF_Universal_High_Performance_VGA_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_NickelAcetal.html?tl=g30c87
> 
> *Edit*
> Did some more reading and decided on acetal. Less prone to cracking.


Exactly. After having one cpu block crack. I avoid it like I avoid stupid people.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Run into another issue. Since I'm going to be using the GPU blocks, what fitting should I use to connect them together. Plan on using a normal 1/2" G/14 barb for the intake on the first but do not know what to use on the exit on the first into the intake on the second.


----------



## Rangerscott

*edit*

My bad MUR. Forgot you where just doing gpu block (not fulls). With those I've just seen straight compression fittings/barbs and tubing.

Kinda like this.


----------



## Kepi

Not much has changed other than my motherboard and cpu upgraded to a 2500k and a Sabertooth P67










although seeing all these PSU's sleeved makes me want to do it as well but im quite frightened on actually tackling it.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott;13067070*
> Koolance has an two model extending connectors.
> 
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=873
> 
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=872
> 
> EK makes connecting blocks.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c357/s922/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Water_Blocks_VGA_-_Brand-EK_VGA_Water_Blocks-Page1.html


I should have mentioned these are gpu only blocks. These here to be exact. Link

Lol just saw your edit. Its all good.


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;13067196*
> I should have mentioned these are gpu only blocks. These here to be exact. Link
> 
> Lol just saw your edit. Its all good.


The koolance 460 full blocks are coming down in price.


----------



## MURDoctrine

They will not work for one of my cards so I'm just going to run gpu only blocks. Just got it all ordered. Hopefully will get here pretty smoothly. Just have to order my barbs and maybe some more tubing. I know this is ask a lot but since im adding the gpus to my loop what would be the best config. Currently have it set Rad > Res > CPU > back to Rad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timechange01;13063906*
> Updated my rig a little bit


Supa nice









btw, pre-sleeved extensions, or dyi white sleeve?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Rangerscott

Way too many nice rigs. Ghetto is

3

2

1

(I use filters and filter slot covers. They're being cleaned)




































I bought this setup off of an ebay seller and just installed it as is and it's worked just fine ever since. I'm working on a "nice" setup as we speak.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Oh look, another pit of snakes.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Gualichu04

Redone wiring thermal paste on cpu and applied artic silver to gpu heat sink. moved radiator to top. All done with no sleep and while extremley distracted by anything. Idle is 98F/37C Load: 117F/48c it was 113f idle 128 under load.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey, is that blue box a water chiller?


----------



## Gualichu04

I wish it is the shroud cover for the gigabyte 3d galaxy II's Radiator it looks awesome but a better radiator is needed next build. Still a great rad just not up to spec as to what is out now.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Nice clean up Gualichu.


----------



## Gualichu04

Thank you this website randomly inspired me today and my ocd kicked in.


----------



## Gualichu04

Was hard to cleanup since mine is the first thermaltake armor and has no holes except near the 3.5 bays and they are tiny can't fit a regular 12v molex.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*


Was hard to cleanup since mine is the first thermaltake armor and has no holes except near the 3.5 bays and they are tiny can't fit a regular 12v molex.


that is what dremel tools are for ;-)


----------



## Triangle

I got my MM Pinnacle 24 on Friday...
I have the 3.140 on the top....
I need to cut part of the things that hold the drives in the 5.25" bays to get my SR-1 420 to fit.









I think I will put my fan controller there if I can...


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


Oh look, another pit of snakes.










Theres no holes in the back plate or any wher to zip tie. Doesnt matter. New build is coming soon.


----------



## Malik

Something from me







Not finish ... but very close


----------



## SecrtAgentMan




----------



## Malik

Thanks, more stuff is in my gallery. On this project im still working









PS.
One of my project is in banner on first site


----------



## 161029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Malik*


Something from me







Not finish ... but very close






































I would go for it but the dye kind of killed it. You've probably had some problems with the dye. Still, very awesome.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

So the banner on the first page is one of your builds?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HybridCore*


I would go for it but the dye kind of killed it. You've probably had some problems with the dye. Still, very awesome.


Agreed









btw, please only quote ONE pic. it'll make Kev happy


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Agreed









btw, please only quote ONE pic. it'll make Kev happy










And not only Kev, but everyone else too








Mentioned about 1000 times but nobody thinks about it









That rig looks pretty sweet Malik








I love the tubing/dye combo, the only thing I would change is the red fittings, but it still looks awesome!


----------



## Malik

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HybridCore*


I would go for it but the dye kind of killed it. You've probably had some problems with the dye. Still, very awesome.


What kid of problems you mean ? Because i dont have any problems with liquid









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


So the banner on the first page is one of your builds?


yes.

Red fittings are awesome ... they will stay


----------



## B3RGY

not finished?
hybrid, i wouldve gotten colored tubing too, still very nice!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Malik*


What kid of problems you mean ? Because i dont have any problems with liquid









yes.

Red fittings are awesome ... they will stay










Nice









I was always wondering where that picture was from.


----------



## Rangerscott

Malik. Your system looks nice. I really like the see through red rather than red tubing look. You're going to get a bunch of people yell about dye this dye that. A good flushing once or twice a year wouldn't hurt.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott;13075700*
> Malik. Your system looks nice. I really like the see through red rather than red tubing look. You're going to get a bunch of people yell about dye this dye that. A good flushing once or twice a year wouldn't hurt.


Haha, the anti-dye brigade never take too long to be out in full force whenever someone has dye in their loop







I've never EVER had any problems from using dye so I can't understand the fuss about it. (Maybe it's because my dye is actually car radiator fluid? idk)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I gotta say, with a rig like that where looks is clearly one of the priorities I will not advise against dye. I would not use it myself for more than a couple weeks while getting final pics of a mod, but a rig that stylish needs dye.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13072419*
> I got my MM Pinnacle 24 on Friday...
> I have the 3.140 on the top....
> I need to cut part of the things that hold the drives in the 5.25" bays to get my SR-1 420 to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will put my fan controller there if I can...


Awesome, can't wait to see it. Don't forget to post up and join the Mountain Mods Club. There aren't many people with Pinnacles


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13078578*
> Awesome, can't wait to see it. Don't forget to post up and join the Mountain Mods Club. There aren't many people with Pinnacles


Oh yeah, I forgot about the club...


----------



## wermad

Malik, I like the color fittings. Colored fittings would be a nice change from the usual nickel, black, and copper...(oh, and brass too


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Haven't seen any colored fittings that weren't plastic (the compression part at least). Are there colored metal ones other than black?


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13079804*
> Haven't seen any colored fittings that weren't plastic (the compression part at least). Are there colored metal ones other than black?


Purple???








White???


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


I gotta say, with a rig like that where looks is clearly one of the priorities I will not advise against dye. I would not use it myself for more than a couple weeks while getting final pics of a mod, but a rig that stylish needs dye.


I agree with that, it looks really cool this way!
Besides that, I had some problems with feser one black, but thats some heavy stuff....








I dont really think something like this will mess up anything as bad as that feser stuff did to my tubing...


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Supa nice









btw, pre-sleeved extensions, or dyi white sleeve?


Dont have the time or skill for manual sleeving. These are extensions


----------



## Run N. Gun

My freshly finished build, using the Kuhler H20 620.


----------



## Run N. Gun

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Malik*


Something from me







Not finish ... but very close











That's awesome!


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13079804*
> Haven't seen any colored fittings that weren't plastic (the compression part at least). Are there colored metal ones other than black?


This are full metal
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL;13080463*
> I agree with that, it looks really cool this way!
> Besides that, I had some problems with feser one black, but thats some heavy stuff....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont really think something like this will mess up anything as bad as that feser stuff did to my tubing...


Strange, i work with feser one liquid since 4-5 years and i dont have any problems with this liquid. Even now i use feser one uv red


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Run N. Gun*


My freshly finished build, using the Kuhler H20 620.











OMG 
too bad im poor at the moment


----------



## Twister773

WOW, some of these builds are unreal!


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Another fine custom build Malik, I personally love the dye, really suits the theme. I see no problems with people using dye, you'll probably find people don't maintain their systems regularly so thats why their blocks gunk up.


----------



## Infernosaint

I added the two 480's to my loop this weekend, and started sleeving, so I thought I might as well practice taking some pictures, so I'm ready when the build is done (if ever







)

Pictures go!


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Nice little loop Infernosaint!


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*


Nice little loop Infernosaint!


Thanks









2 480's and a 4 GHz CPU might be a bit too much for a 360 rad, but I don't mind a bit higher temps, if I can keep it this simple.

And I think the HAF X looks really good with the full window panel. It takes some of that "tank look" away, and makes it a bit classier.


----------



## Mongol

Nice...now I want red fittings for Tim.

(it'd be awesome if they made metal uv-red fittings...guess they'd have to be painted)

And that's a clean build you got there Inferno...I can only imagine it'll look much prettier sleeved.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

why are you using a tri sli bridge with 2 way sli?


----------



## Mongol

You can...I did at one point.


----------



## Lutro0

Ok, Ill bite. =)

Its just a rasa kit in my recently finished mod.










Link to the worklog is in my sig. =)


----------



## bundymania

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*   *raises hand*

Just kidding... I love seeing your posts on new and cool things. Those copper fittings just struck me as that is what I want for my rig now!!!

What other expensive hobbies???









Show us!  
   
 You Tube


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


You can...I did at one point.










just never understood it, like it's trying to be something it's not.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Ok, Ill bite. =)

Its just a rasa kit in my recently finished mod.










Link to the worklog is in my sig. =)



looks great, never seen a rasa kit build look so clean


----------



## Onions

i love that psu mod it looks so neat


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


-snip-
looks great, never seen a rasa kit build look so clean



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


i love that psu mod it looks so neat


Thank you very much!


----------



## Onions

i followed your build for the longest time and my favourite part was that psu lol it jsut look so clean


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Unit_4

Here is a sneak peak. Still building but could not help myself. Had to post.

Hope the pics work I'm on my iPhone


----------



## Sircles

can i be part of this?

did parts of this 
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/pcs...ast-cerberus/1

and these 
http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=3584

and mroe that i dont have pictures of


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sircles*


can i be part of this?

did parts of this 
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/pcs...ast-cerberus/1

and these 
http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=3584

and mroe that i dont have pictures of










sure you can join, but you have to post pictures here in this thread


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Ok, Ill bite. =)

Its just a rasa kit in my recently finished mod.










Link to the worklog is in my sig. =)


if ya's havent checked out the log to this build your missing out!! excellent attention to detail!! beautiful az always Lutro0 havent seen the build completed till now, love the loop


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


i followed your build for the longest time and my favourite part was that psu lol it jsut look so clean


Thanks man, I have another one in the works.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *CH4PZ*


if ya's havent checked out the log to this build your missing out!! excellent attention to detail!! beautiful az always Lutro0 havent seen the build completed till now, love the loop










Wow, thanks for the very kind words









Thanks kevingreenbmx for adding me. =D


----------



## Onions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Thanks man, I have another one in the works.










link??


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13084521*
> link??


Has not been posted yet. >=)


----------



## Unit_4

Sorry about dumb question but how do i add this club to my sig.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unit_4;13085304*
> Sorry about dumb question but how do i add this club to my sig.


you copy the code for the sig tag from the first post of this thread, then you paste it in the signature editing page found from your User CP

edit: this link is where you can edit your sig:

http://www.overclock.net/profile.php?do=editsignature


----------



## Unit_4

I tried that. It comes back saying ur using a censord word.


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13084577*
> Has not been posted yet. >=)


WHAT thats a crime XD post it


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13083084*
> *vid*


...Please tell me that's not _your_ DBS?!







You may be my new best friend Bundy...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unit_4;13085638*
> I tried that. It comes back saying ur using a censord word.


it works for me.

did you try deleting everything else that might have already been in your Sig?


----------



## Unit_4

Thankyou.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik;13074224*
> Thanks, more stuff is in my gallery. On this project im still working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS.
> One of my project is in banner on first site


show off


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13083075*
> Ok, Ill bite. =)
> 
> Its just a rasa kit in my recently finished mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to the worklog is in my sig. =)


psu cover looks awesome..and i'd say Wc the cards but theyre only gts 250's


----------



## Canis-X

Here's my setup:


----------



## thrasherht

I would just like to say, we should start a new club.

It shall be called.

I hate/envy Bundy club.


----------



## musashin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13087739*
> I would just like to say, we should start a new club.
> 
> It shall be called.
> 
> I hate/envy Bundy club.


I'm in.


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13082994*
> why are you using a tri sli bridge with 2 way sli?


Because I like the broad sturdy ones a lot more, for looks. Gonna cut it and paint it, or mod it with some carbon stuff.


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13087739*
> I would just like to say, we should start a new club.
> 
> It shall be called.
> 
> I hate/envy Bundy club.


same lol
im so in


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infernosaint;13088598*
> Because I like the broad sturdy ones a lot more, for looks. Gonna cut it and paint it, or mod it with some carbon stuff.


makes sense now. look into the hard 2 way bridges. Two of those on there wrapped in carbon fiber would look pretty sick. like this


----------



## Mongol

]The solid bridges look awesome with real matte carbon fiber.

I tried it with gloss and it stuck out like a sore thumb...I reversed it to its matte/unfinished side and it looked loads better.


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X;13087102*
> Here's my setup:


i like it looks clean but where is your 9800?


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X;13087102*
> Here's my setup:


lol random phase-change tube incoming


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


I would just like to say, we should start a new club.

It shall be called.

I hate/envy Bundy club.


I nominate Bundy for President though!!! Wouldn't be official any other way!


----------



## Onions

i second


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


makes sense now. look into the hard 2 way bridges. Two of those on there wrapped in carbon fiber would look pretty sick. like this 










 yeah, I have a hard green 2slot from TYAN


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


]The solid bridges look awesome with real matte carbon fiber.

I tried it with gloss and it stuck out like a sore thumb...I reversed it to its matte/unfinished side and it looked loads better.











I could never master applying vinyl


----------



## raZel

Look what i just got









Ill keep you guys posted, sleeving on the way as well, also going to be changing the tubing and the loop a little. When that all happens gonna add a nice Fill port also!


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raZel*











Look what i just got









Ill keep you guys posted, sleeving on the way as well, also going to be changing the tubing and the loop a little. When that all happens gonna add a nice Fill port also!


Can't wait to see


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


WHAT thats a crime XD post it


Soon. =P Case is on its way, will drop the plans as soon as I have them drawn up.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Two of those on there wrapped in carbon fiber would look pretty sick.


You only need one bridge for SLI though. Adding another one wont do anything.
You only need the bigger TRI-SLI bridge when doing TRI-SLI.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13088848*
> i like it looks clean but where is your 9800?


I had RMA'd it while I rebuilt my rig, it hadn't gotten back yet when I finished it up. Now, I have both my 5970's pending RMA with ASUS if they can ever get me something to replace them with (been 5 months now). They still don't have any 6990's in N. America yet and they don't know when they are getting any. They have sent me a few 5970's and all of them have been bad, not sure what to do with ASUS these days.

Edit:

It was in that pic...I missed it too....LOL









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13089405*
> lol random phase-change tube incoming


LOL....Yeah it is a custom-made ss and it is case-less so it is rather big and not the most visually appealing thing that you've ever seen. Here is what it looks like in my make-shift platform....LOL


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lost-boi;13095153*
> You only need one bridge for SLI though. Adding another one wont do anything.
> You only need the bigger TRI-SLI bridge when doing TRI-SLI.


I assumed he wanted the "fatter" look since he was using the tri sli bridge. I did too, only reason there's a 3rd card in here.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13093410*
> I could never master applying vinyl


That's not vinyl.









It's real carbon fiber veneer. I have a piece about the size of a solid tri sli bridge left over I can mail you if you want to do something similar.







(I think I have 2 pieces, so I can mail you and... Stallion them if you guys wanna bling out your bridges...just use a little rubber cement/super glue and slap it right on.)

Edit: I really have to change out this [email protected]$&%$#! plasticizer is clouding up.


----------



## Onions

o snap its in there XD


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;13097540*
> That's not vinyl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's real carbon fiber veneer. I have a piece about the size of a solid tri sli bridge left over I can mail you if you want to do something similar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I think I have 2 pieces, so I can mail you and... Stallion them if you guys wanna bling out your bridges...just use a little rubber cement/super glue and slap it right on.)
> 
> Edit: I really have to change out this [email protected]$&%$#! plasticizer is clouding up.


pm me ur paypal and whatever $ u want for it. *cough* Primoflex *cough* only *cough* tubing *cough* to buy


----------



## Mongol

pff...I don't want anything for scrap CF.










PM me your addy.

(you may need to trim it for a perfect fit...sharp scissors will suffice)


----------



## DANTE59

leak testing


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DANTE59*


leak testing


My work supply's to Modells.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


*cough* Primoflex *cough* only *cough* tubing *cough* to buy


You should see the Off Topic doctor for that cough...lol. 
Ugh. I know...I know...Probably going primoflex black with red compression fittings for the rebuild. Especially when I snag a TH10.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


You should see the Off Topic doctor for that cough...lol. 
Ugh. I know...I know...Probably going primoflex black with red compression fittings for the rebuild. Especially when I snag a TH10.


Primoflex is amazing. Once I started using it I've never used anything else. It's super cheap on amazon (cheapest I've found it for 10ft rolls) and can make some crazy bends without kinking. I'm waiting for the TX10 to come out so I can fit 4x560 rads in it or get a custom case made by mountain mods. It's a hard decision. Just wish that Case labs didn't put handles on the side panels, seem tacky imo. Would be nice to use sub 600 rpm fans to cool a 4 way sli and dual xeon setup. C'mon Ivy Bridge why can't you come out sooner!


----------



## Mongol

That would be rad...actually that tx looks rad....would mind slapping a chilled loop in one...or loads of 120.4 or so with low speed GTs. It would be a silent thing of beauty.

Yeah. I know what you mean. I want an SR2..itching for one, but I promised myself no more updating (other than case and more rad) until Ivy and Kepler...but it isn't going to be easy. LoL?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Definitely not. I keep itching to toss in a 4 way sli board, but I just had to buy a laptop for law school. That $3500 is really hitting my Ivy/ Kepler fund hard. Would have paid for the CPUs. My gpus are adequate for a while so the most important thing is two of the highest end xeons available with a mobo capable of 4way sli come Q4. Gpus and case can wait until around march I guess. My current case is more than adequate for that setup.


----------



## wermad

primochill primoflex ftw


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Triangle

I am going to dye some tubing translucent purple.


----------



## sndstream

Still working on this thing. I got around to adding the nb/sb waterblocks forthe Gigabyte UD7 / i2500k combo. Still need to finish up the last 2 video cards, make all my compression fittings uniform, tidy up more wiring and so on. It was a pita getting the plumbing to fit in the space I had. The chipset blocks are really close to the cpu waterblock so I had to do this convoluted setup. Maybe I'll try to redo the plumbing once I do the tear down for adding 3way sli.....


----------



## k1msta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream;13106231*
> Still working on this thing. I got around to adding the nb/sb waterblocks forthe Gigabyte UD7 / i2500k combo. Still need to finish up the last 2 video cards, make all my compression fittings uniform, tidy up more wiring and so on. It was a pita getting the plumbing to fit in the space I had. The chipset blocks are really close to the cpu waterblock so I had to do this convoluted setup. Maybe I'll try to redo the plumbing once I do the tear down for adding 3way sli.....


Is that the ek kit ? Looks very nice


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;13097540*
> That's not vinyl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's real carbon fiber veneer. I have a piece about the size of a solid tri sli bridge left over I can mail you if you want to do something similar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I think I have 2 pieces, so I can mail you and... Stallion them if you guys wanna bling out your bridges...just use a little rubber cement/super glue and slap it right on.)
> 
> Edit: I really have to change out this [email protected]$&%$#! plasticizer is clouding up.


Thanks, I'll keep it as is since it has the "sli" logo on it


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k1msta;13106373*
> Is that the ek kit ? Looks very nice


Yep it's the EK kit. It's kind of hard to see in the pic the block covering the mosfets (the l shaped block). I have a pretty good camera but I'm a total idiot when trying to take pics. The shots I take never seem to look like what is actually there.....


----------



## Onions

lol atleast you have a camera i have a cappy blackberry XD


----------



## Grumps

Hi everyone. Just decided to give it shot.








[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here is a link to a short video about this build I just competed.

I have lurked here for a good while and decided to start working on this several months ago.


----------



## idaWHALE

Found all parts for my w/c ... now alls I need is $300


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE;13107025*
> Found all parts for my w/c ... now alls I need is $300


Rasa RS240 kit $130, best way to get started if you are on a tight budget. Best bang for your buck and the cpu block is very close to the big boys in terms of performance


----------



## k1msta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream;13106449*
> Yep it's the EK kit. It's kind of hard to see in the pic the block covering the mosfets (the l shaped block). I have a pretty good camera but I'm a total idiot when trying to take pics. The shots I take never seem to look like what is actually there.....


im thinking about doing similar setup without mobo block.


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k1msta;13107166*
> im thinking about doing similar setup without mobo block.


Hey clear up your IM folder so I can send you the info you were asking about...


----------



## Forsaken_id

Got a build log for my M8 finally: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/989092-build-log-forsakens-m8.html


----------



## IzorkX

*Specs:*

Arctic Cooling MX-4
Push On - G¼ - 13/10mm
Feser Tube - 12,7/9,65mm - 3/8" (10mm) - UV-lightblue

XSPC Rasa CPU Acetal
XSPC RX240
XSPC 750 Dual Bay Reservoir Pump Rev.2

Standard fans coming from the kit.

*Temps:*

(Prime95 running 1 hour blend) running 5GHz 1.43V:

*Core 0:* 63
*Core 1:* 67
*Core 2:* 69
*Core 3:* 68

Max it's been up, in this hour, was 72C.

Idle temps around 40C on all cores. This high is because I have disabled all speedstep techonology and ****, that decreases the volt. So it's running 1.43V at idle.

*Movie:* (Showing how noisy the pump is.. is it normal? I leak tested for 5 hours)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lbp6cDAMV-U[/ame]

*Pictures:*


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IzorkX;13107663*
> *Movie:* (Showing how noisy the pump is.. is it normal? I leak tested for 5 hours)


I've seen a number of people saying the Rasa kit pump is loud.


----------



## IzorkX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13107715*
> I've seen a number of people saying the Rasa kit pump is loud.


But this is not normal. It's like a rattling, really annoying.. It's the only thing I can hear, rest is quite.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IzorkX;13107744*
> But this is not normal. It's like a rattling, really annoying.. It's the only thing I can hear, rest is quite.


Sounds just like these guys: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slesOInuGAk[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOe09hTiCxA[/ame]

Maybe get with XSPC and have them replace it?


----------



## IzorkX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13107758*
> Sounds just like these guys: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slesOInuGAk
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOe09hTiCxA
> 
> Maybe get with XSPC and have them replace it?


I'm living in denmark.. So it'll be a long time for me to get it. I don't want to be out of my computer untill then :=)

And I just mounted everything, it would be sad to have to remount it :/


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IzorkX;13107761*
> I'm living in denmark.. So it'll be a long time for me to get it. I don't want to be out of my computer untill then :=)
> 
> And I just mounted everything, it would be sad to have to remount it :/


Ah, I hear ya. Noise makes me







. I got WC for quiet and cause it's cool (and looks cool).


----------



## IzorkX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13107781*
> Ah, I hear ya. Noise makes me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I got WC for quiet and cause it's cool (and looks cool).


Same









But also to get some better temps at OC :=)

I will run for a few weeks and try shake it sometimes, to get air out (which it already should be) but it may help.. If not I will call up XSPC.

But yes it sounds exactly like the vids you posted.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Forsaken_id

^^Needs to be bigger. The way it is now, I could only put out a fire in one room not the whole house.


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13104874*
> Definitely not. I keep itching to toss in a 4 way sli board, but I just had to buy a laptop for law school. That $3500 is really hitting my Ivy/ Kepler fund hard. Would have paid for the CPUs. My gpus are adequate for a while so the most important thing is two of the highest end xeons available with a mobo capable of 4way sli come Q4. Gpus and case can wait until around march I guess. My current case is more than adequate for that setup.


I know...that MM you got going on there is a beast.
Gah. Part of me is actually leaning a little towards Bulldozer or one of those upcoming Opty's. I dunno why. I'll have to keep an eye or three on the look out. (4 way sli with GK100 690's mated to a pair of x5690's will be a beast of another form)

Intel has my







:


----------



## wermad

Just a pic to show how the bottom rad gets its air


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Just a pic to show how the bottom rad gets its air










There's probably enough rad there to cool two systems









what are your temps like?


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Just a pic to show how the bottom rad gets its air










did it come with the grill at the bottom or did you add that yourself?


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13108234*


Hey I have two of those smaller res in my case.

Not sure if you know but it seems they leak very early on and then some how stop (happened to both when leak testing first hour in a drop every 1-5 seconds, 2 hours in no more leaks. Only leaked on stock stoppers not my barbs...) They so look great in person. I haven't done cable management so I am ashamed to post pics, But if needed I will!


----------



## k1msta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream;13107547*
> Hey clear up your IM folder so I can send you the info you were asking about...


oh sorry about that







didnt realize it was full..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;13110073*
> There's probably enough rad there to cool two systems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what are your temps like?


Have yet to run full load but I'm hoping a few degrees. Mostly its about the mod rather than cooler temps








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE;13110256*
> did it come with the grill at the bottom or did you add that yourself?


The door was a solid panel which I cut to add the vents and window. The right door has a slightly bigger vent though no window


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Hey wermad, what is that grill material that you're using? It's not a stock rad-grill is it?


----------



## B3RGY

10,000 posts and 1000 pages is coming up for this thread, great job kevin!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13112127*
> 10,000 posts and 1000 pages is coming up for this thread, great job kevin!


I noticed that yesterday, it is getting pretty close

thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13111950*
> Hey wermad, what is that grill material that you're using? It's not a stock rad-grill is it?


ModRight Slot mesh for the doors. I had originally ordered that from ppcs, but they sent a smaller slot steel mesh that was overall smaller in its full dimension. After some emails w/ ppcs and ModRight, ModRight came through and got me the correct mesh from Frozencpu at no cost to me. So that first mesh I used around the case to patch up some holes I had made earlier and for unused ones


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13112166*
> I noticed that yesterday, it is getting pretty close
> 
> thanks


ehh i only see 250 pages...


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;13115508*
> ehh i only see 250 pages...


Because you've changed the default settings to show more posts per page.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13116295*
> Because you've changed the default settings to show more posts per page.


Yeah he was just joking


----------



## sprower

:d


----------



## Forsaken_id

Still adding to the build log, but here's some sexy:
























And some of the after build mess:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## weipim

pretty awesome , save it


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13116377*
> updated


You're my boy, Blue. . .er Kevin!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13116607*
> You're my boy, Blue. . .er Kevin!


----------



## Forsaken_id

Yep!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

So when is the KY wrestling? cuz I'm down...


----------



## mastical

Also to page number 1,000


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13117052*
> ...


New avatar


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13117884*
> New avatar


Is sexy bike chain


----------



## Onions

lol i was like who is updateing then i noticed the change i was like o snapple juice


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13117884*
> New avatar


Matches my username better, plus, I didn't like the pic of Classy that I had been using.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13117900*
> Is sexy bike chain


yep








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13118124*
> lol i was like who is updateing then i noticed the change i was like o snapple juice


haha, but I have not had to say "updated" since I changed it.


----------



## R00ST3R

Well I'm showing this as page "500 of 500". So I think an old school *Woooot* is in order here







.

BTW I'm jealous of all your RIG'S ladies & gents, and when I throw "my old lady" to the curb I'm going to build the most epic rig you have ever seen...

...until someone pwn's it...which may take all of 10 minutes....


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;13119365*
> Well I'm showing this as page "500 of 500". So I think an old school *Woooot* is in order here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> BTW I'm jealous of all your RIG'S ladies & gents, and when I throw "my old lady" to the curb I'm going to build the most epic rig you have ever seen...
> 
> ...until someone pwn's it...which may take all of 10 minutes....


Unless you can top this. You won't be able to win. LOL.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/950313-vegas-quad-sli-3gb-gtx580-sub.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;13119365*
> Well I'm showing this as page "500 of 500". So I think an old school *Woooot* is in order here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> BTW I'm jealous of all your RIG'S ladies & gents, and when I throw "my old lady" to the curb I'm going to build the most epic rig you have ever seen...
> 
> ...until someone pwn's it...which may take all of 10 minutes....


Dual SR2
Four Xeons X5690
MM Extended Ascension Dual mb hx-atx + Pedestal
96GB Dominators GT Ram
Eight GTX 580 3GB
Two 1500w psu
...


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13119487*
> Unless you can top this. You won't be able to win. LOL.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/950313-vegas-quad-sli-3gb-gtx580-sub.html


Add the fact that I have no interest in throwing my old lady to the curb, and yes, I won't win. Way to rub it in bro









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13119509*
> Dual SR2
> Four Xeons X5690
> MM Extended Ascension Dual mb hx-atx + Pedestal
> 96GB Dominators GT Ram
> Eight GTX 580 3GB
> Two 1500w psu
> ...


String wermadsBuild = epicness;
boolean epicness = true;
if epicness = true;
return wermadRules()


----------



## Onions

yay for program humour i get it


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


Add the fact that I have no interest in throwing my old lady to the curb, and yes, I won't win. Way to rub it in bro









String wermadsBuild = epicness;
boolean epicness = true;
if epicness = true;
return wermadRules()





















Any thoughts on the case? Or same great one you have?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*











Any thoughts on the case? Or same great one you have?


Been looking at what Case Labs has to offer with serious interest. Hopefully I can drum up enough side work here soon to make it happen. Just paid for classes for the summer, so my wallet is feeling a little light atm


----------



## Onions

page 1k?? anyways what do you guys think of the rv03 for a wc case i wanna get one and put the 360 in teh front and a 240 on the bottom?? thoughts


----------



## MURDoctrine

Update on my rig. Just added my gpu's to the loop. Idle CPU 34-38 C and GPU 31 C. Load/gaming CPU 54-56C and GPU 38-40C. Overall I'm thrilled with the results. CPU is stock atm though. Will be OC'ing again in the near future.


----------



## Onions

nice


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

we are now on page 1000, who is gonna grab post 10,000?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13127783*
> updated
> 
> we are now on page 1000, who is gonna grab post 10,000?


Me, duh.

Well, hopefully.


----------



## Pascal1973

Nice, gratz on your 1K!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

This thread keeps going and going and going


----------



## Pascal1973

I'm building a new rig right now.....i'll post some pics this week. Let's get 10k!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

9997


----------



## Pascal1973

sooooo close.....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

who is it?









next one has it.


----------



## amantonas

I don't know.
I'm sorry, I just had to do it


----------



## Infernosaint

This thread is win <3


----------



## Pascal1973




----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amantonas;13128208*
> ?sdfsdfsfsfsd


that is a very disappointing use of the 10,000th post


----------



## Pascal1973

Well, i'll finish a nice contribution to this thread end of this week....waiting for some parts...


----------



## Pascal1973

It'll be a rebuild of this rig, with some more blocks!


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;13128265*
> It'll be a rebuild of this rig, with some more blocks!


Oh my gawd, that's hot! I can't wait for more.... blocks.


----------



## Pascal1973

You like blocks?! Here you go!


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;13128312*
> You like blocks?! Here you go!


I don't even want to tell you what happened when I saw that. That's so awesome! Really nice rig you've got there!


----------



## Pascal1973

Thanx, i dumped 2 of the cards though, to many driver issues with 3D Surround. I play a few old sim-racing games.....so i really don't need the horsepower.The 600T build will have 2 470's and a 980X, bit of Koolance, bit EK, my little mediacenter.I'll post some pics end of this week.


----------



## wermad




----------



## Bal3Wolf

well i redid my loop and got my new psu in its about as good as im gonna get it probly.


----------



## Octane

heres mine, was green for 2 years, but i went blue, i guess she aint as bright as green

posting my Blue one (current) and previous color being green


----------



## markag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;13130084*
> well i redid my loop and got my new psu in its about as good as im gonna get it probly.


How do you like that PSU? It's the same one I've got. I've had no problems at all with mine so far, and I have room to grow too. I only wish it was modular


----------



## Sarge198

Here is mine:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

edit: we hit ANOTHER landmark today, we have had 1.5 million views.


----------



## Liighthead

wow 1.5mil! dam haha


----------



## bl1tzk1213g

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*













I'm likeing the zip tied hard drives


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1tzk1213g*


I'm likeing the zip tied hard drives

















those are very rare!! you can only get that mount in one place, I can't believe I seen it for the first time now lol, anti-vibe and great cooling all in one plus easy hot-swapping also lmao it does look good but just had to add this lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1tzk1213g*


I'm likeing the zip tied hard drives

















Lol only place to put them sence i took the hardrive cage out to put in another fan and they blocked the airflow also.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


those are very rare!! you can only get that mount in one place, I can't believe I seen it for the first time now lol, anti-vibe and great cooling all in one plus easy hot-swapping also lmao it does look good but just had to add this lol



Lol it works pretty good i got some rubber peices between them and the rad to try to curb any noise and they are locked down to the bottom of case so if i move it they dont move. And i attached mesh to back of them to keep the pcbs from touching the metal of the rad. Works great sence i can add a extra fan and dont have them blocking any airflow and surpising even with wireties it looks better then the way they were befor.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Lol only place to put them sence i took the hardrive cage out to put in another fan and they blocked the airflow also.

Lol it works pretty good i got some rubber peices between them and the rad to try to curb any noise and they are locked down to the bottom of case so if i move it they dont move. And i attached mesh to back of them to keep the pcbs from touching the metal of the rad. Works great sence i can add a extra fan and dont have them blocking any airflow and surpising even with wireties it looks better then the way they were befor.


ok please tell me you have the before picture? thats one I have to see!!!!

Ok I have a Question and I have posted in another thread but no answers, I have my system in my sig, and I have a q9550 intel and xfx 790I board if I get three 260's and sli them besides dx11 would that system be better or the same as what I have now?

BTW Cool Avatar Bal3wolf


----------



## Bal3Wolf

If it was me id probly keep the 460s newer games seem to be going to dx11 and having higher recommended. Yea i got a befor pic my 5970 aint in the rig at this time but you see why i moved my drives.

Befor









Now


----------



## Bradford1040

yeah I can, That is one big case (open, not much in the way) but you found something lol in the way did you not lmao! I am also looking at cases for second rig now I was not trying to replace this rig was asking if that would be a good buy the cards are only about 100 used and I always wanted 3way sli it wont have dx11 eye candy but my question was will the 260's give me the same performance I am seeing now and also how does the q9550 stand up t the pII 970be ? I never got to really see the chip work right (thanks asus) lol. I was asking for many reasons I guess, so to boil it down how does the Q9550 vs PII 970be? then 3 x gtx260 vs 2 x gtx460 minus dx11 stuff does that make sense?


----------



## Indulgence

from this..










to this..










and now,


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Indulgence*


from this..










to this..










and now,











dam what are you doing with my case???? Give that back you thief!!!! I am doing kinda the same thing I put the mcp655 under the 3.5 internals to and also only have two but your done product is nice how did you make the box just cut and glue?


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


dam what are you doing with my case???? Give that back you thief!!!! I am doing kinda the same thing I put the mcp655 under the 3.5 internals to and also only have two but your done product is nice how did you make the box just cut and glue?


ha!









nope, i used screws at the side so that i can easily see and easily plug/unplug connectors to the psu (and watch if there's a leak going on at the bottom rad) whenever i want to.. the thing is, how am i gonna clean the rad and fans underneath that box?









:EDIT: it was made from acrylic.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


well i redid my loop and got my new psu in its about as good as im gonna get it probly.










get a Mountain Mods harddrive mounting bracket and just mount those two hdds to the front fan. Cable management must be a nightmare in that case just like mine. What are the anti-kink coils for? I'd just take them off since they're not on there evenly. I'm ocd about that stuff.


----------



## Lutro0

Updated photo for the club, also have many other new ones in my log. =) Link is in my sig.


----------



## Forsaken_id

^^Beautiful! Your work makes me think your nickname is LUSTro0.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13135332*
> get a Mountain Mods harddrive mounting bracket and just mount those two hdds to the front fan. Cable management must be a nightmare in that case just like mine. What are the anti-kink coils for? I'd just take them off since they're not on there evenly. I'm ocd about that stuff.


Lol i only need the anti kinks fo the bottom tubing from the rx240 to 5970 or it will kink bad like total collasp and i figured would look wierd not to have them on the rest. Im not real happy with kinks myself they are a dang pain to work with lol but for now i need them. LOl yea cable managment aint fun in the least really with the corsair 950 has so many dang cables its unreal and 12 fans lol having the wires this clean really is a miracle lol. The Mountain Mods harddrive mounting bracket looks like a good idea but i dont thk i have enugh space from front of case to the bottom rad to use it. Im going to keep working on the anti kinks they are just a pain they dont wrap even and some will turn out longer then others lol.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;13128265*
> It'll be a rebuild of this rig, with some more blocks!


are those 480's?
i noticed your cards were melting


----------



## nden

Here is mine.










More on my blog


----------



## Pascal1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13140514*
> are those 480's?
> i noticed your cards were melting


Those are 470's, I had 4 GTX480 in my other rig, watercooled.
And yep, the 470's were smoking hot folding.....


----------



## dab

I want to join the club


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;13140779*
> Here is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More on my blog


I really like this, good job bro!


----------



## Pinky Tascadaro

Wow that looks nice^^


----------



## superhead91

Well, I'm thinking of finally venturing into the watercooling world. I have a pretty good idea of what I want already, but I want to get some input from you guys about the stuff I've kinda picked out. I'm not going to be buying this all at once and it won't be immediately, but like I said I just wanna get some opinions before I start spending money. Right now I'd like to just do a CPU and mobo block loop. These are the parts I've kinda looked into:
-Primochill Primoflex black 7/16" tubing
-EK Multioption Res X2 -or- Bitspower Water Tank
-Bitspower black sparkle barbs -or- Bitspower chrome barbs
-Swiftech MCP355 pump
-EK Crosshair IV Full Board Block
-EK Supreme HF full copper nickel plated CPU block
-Shin-Etsu X23 TIM
-XSPC RX360 rad
-Gentle Typhoon AP-15s
-Silver killcoil

Feel free to tell me what you think would be better than what I have, but please give a reason. Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13142425*
> Well, I'm thinking of finally venturing into the watercooling world. I have a pretty good idea of what I want already, but I want to get some input from you guys about the stuff I've kinda picked out. I'm not going to be buying this all at once and it won't be immediately, but like I said I just wanna get some opinions before I start spending money. Right now I'd like to just do a CPU and mobo block loop. These are the parts I've kinda looked into:
> -Primochill Primoflex black 7/16" tubing
> -EK Multioption Res X2 -or- Bitspower Water Tank
> -Bitspower black sparkle barbs -or- Bitspower chrome barbs
> -Swiftech MCP355 pump
> -EK Crosshair IV Full Board Block
> -EK Supreme HF full copper nickel plated CPU block
> -Shin-Etsu X23 TIM
> -XSPC RX360 rad
> -Gentle Typhoon AP-15s
> -Silver killcoil
> 
> Feel free to tell me what you think would be better than what I have, but please give a reason. Thanks!


looks good, your DDC will benefit from an aftermarket top and threads instead of fixed nylon barbs


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13142567*
> looks good, your DDC will benefit from an aftermarket top and threads instead of fixed nylon barbs


Thanks. I was wondering about that. The pump was really the only thing I wasn't too sure about. I figured it should be ok though since I'm only doing the cpu and mobo.


----------



## wermad

the 350/355 have fixed 3/8 (~9-10mm) fixed nylon barbs. Since you are gonna run fittings, get a top. I have the xspc ddc acrylic top, there are a few more avail from other manufacturers.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5733/ex-pmp-52/XSPC_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-350355_Acrylic_Replacement_Top_w_LED_Port.html?tl=g30c107s156


----------



## superhead91

I saw someone using quick connect fittings. Thoughts on those? I'm assuming they're convenient for quick assembly/diss-assembly, but surely there are some drawbacks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13142726*
> I saw someone using quick connect fittings. Thoughts on those? I'm assuming they're convenient for quick assembly/diss-assembly, but surely there are some drawbacks.


The koolance VLn-3 were tested the best in a review irc. I have the VL4 (purchased before reading the review







) and I use it for a drain line. A lot of folks use them in key areas for quick disconnecting. they come in handy, only drawback imo, is they are pretty lengthy when coupled together.


----------



## yang88she

my H70 crapped out on me...should have all my watercooling components next week...love getting stuff on the 2nd hand market...save a fortune!


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


The koolance VLn-3 were tested the best in a review irc. I have the VL4 (purchased before reading the review







) and I use it for a drain line. A lot of folks use them in key areas for quick disconnecting. they come in handy, only drawback imo, is they are pretty lengthy when coupled together.


That and they're expensive... I think I'll just stick to what I've got for now. Btw, does anyone know why the bitspower black sparkle barbs are more expensive than the chrome ones?


----------



## AusPC

Hey have you guys tried ordering your fitting direct from Bitspower's online HK store? The prices are amazing and everything is in stock, You just need to email them.

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AusPC*


Hey have you guys tried ordering your fitting direct from Bitspower's online HK store? The prices are amazing and everything is in stock, You just need to email them.

Cheers - Jason.


Cool. I'll check it out.

This question is for whoever. Is the Swiftech MCP350 plenty for just a cpu block and mobo block?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Cool. I'll check it out.

This question is for whoever. Is the Swiftech MCP350 plenty for just a cpu block and mobo block?


yes, its about 75-80% performance of that of the 355 and plenty for your cpu and mb. I think it may not have the 3rd rpm wire, not 100% sure though. There's an ocn member selling them cheap in the f/s thread.


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

I'm going to be getting under water in the next couple of months. I do have a question for you guys. I've been looking at the Bitspower Black Freezer for my 5870, but can't seem to find any decent reviews. Thoughts on that particular block?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


yes, its about 75-80% performance of that of the 355 and plenty for your cpu and mb. I think it may not have the 3rd rpm wire though, not 100% sure though. There's an ocn member selling them cheap in the f/s thread.


Lol... this is why I was asking. I couldn't pass up one for that cheap.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop*


I'm going to be getting under water in the next couple of months. I do have a question for you guys. I've been looking at the Bitspower Black Freezer for my 5870, but can't seem to find any decent reviews. Thoughts on that particular block?


Go with EK, Koolance, DD, HK, Aqua, etc. The first two tend to perform best, both in temps and restriction, most notably.


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Go with EK, Koolance, DD, HK, Aqua, etc. The first two tend to perform best, both in temps and restriction, most notably.


Noted. Thanks for the reply


----------



## sgilmore62

Added a waterblock and GPU awhile back...


----------



## OverSightX




----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Just finish updating. Did some sleeving, lighting, and new fans.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Lol looking at others using anti kinks i can now see hardy no one gets those things on that all look the same distance apart. Looks like anti-kinks sorta have a mind of their own.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;13145549*
> Lol looking at others using anti kinks i can now see hardy no one gets those things on that all look the same distance apart. Looks like anti-kinks sorta have a mind of their own.


I ditched them for my Corsair build, they are a pita to install and I really don't see a need for them if you have beefy enough tube and are not bending it like crazy or a pretzel. Smooth and curvy plumbing


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;13145549*
> Lol looking at others using anti kinks i can now see hardy no one gets those things on that all look the same distance apart. Looks like anti-kinks sorta have a mind of their own.


I dont know how long i tried to get them to be all spaced the same but every time i would move the tubes once installed they went however they wanted. Only reason I used them was to accent my orange connectors


----------



## OverSightX

I actually needed a couple sections of them. My tubing is not that stiff. I really didnt want one or two sections with 2-3" of coil so I put it on all of it. I honestly like it as though.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13145579*
> I ditched them for my Corsair build, they are a pita to install and I really don't see a need for them if you have beefy enough tube and are not bending it like crazy or a pretzel. Smooth and curvy plumbing


Yea only reason im using them is one tubing the one next to my psu kinks bad cause of tight space so i figured id put them on the rest and getting them all spaced right and looking perfect just does not happen lol. Iv had them sence last dec when i got alll my water stuff and just didnt use them.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;13145518*
> Just finish updating. Did some sleeving, lighting, and new fans.


Love those CaseLabs. wish I had more cash. I'd jump on one of these.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

hmmm... seems like caselabs cases have the same downfall as Mountain Mods, there is no cable management system. I guess it's true with any double wide case. If you don't spends hours upon hours and make custom length cables you're going to have a next in the back.


----------



## Secretninja

Just got my rasa rx240 kit today. Got the rad mounted with 4 yate loon high speeds in push pull on top of the case. I wasn't expecting it to be so big, lol.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13148484*
> hmmm... seems like caselabs cases have the same downfall as Mountain Mods, there is no cable management system. I guess it's true with any double wide case. If you don't spends hours upon hours and make custom length cables you're going to have a next in the back.


I'll add that to the revision list. I'm trying to work out a design.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


hmmm... seems like caselabs cases have the same downfall as Mountain Mods, there is no cable management system. I guess it's true with any double wide case. If you don't spends hours upon hours and make custom length cables you're going to have a next in the back.


For sure. I originally didn't do any sleeving and there was so much extra cable it really blocked the airflow. But once I cut the cables down and added one more intake fan on the bottom temps dropped for my CPU by 6 deg. All in all guess you gotta put in some work for any case to do it right.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infernosaint*


This thread is win <3


hells yeah


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infernosaint*


This thread is win <3


----------



## Onions

^ haha i liek that pic


----------



## Stevedawg

First foray into water cooling


----------



## B3RGY

nyghtryder that case is huge, yet its packed


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stevedawg*


First foray into water cooling



















What res/pump is that?


----------



## mastical

Looks like this.


----------



## BradleyW

Can i join Please? Afterall, the H50 is a water cooler. Just pre-built.


----------



## Norlig

A picture from when I was leak testing


----------



## Stevedawg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


What res/pump is that?


mastical has your answer


----------



## nden

I have some spare time and re-took some shots:

Enjoys


----------



## nden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stevedawg*


First foray into water cooling











Gotta get those cards under water







> I hate GPU fan noise. That's why I did it.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Looks like this.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stevedawg*


mastical has your answer










Nice thanks


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B3RGY*


nyghtryder that case is huge, yet its packed


















Ya its gotten to be a real expensive hobby. First it decided to just build my own computer, then i found out about WC, so i jump right in. Then the addiction came, and now i find myself seeing whats new and if i can justify getting it which I somehow always do. Now that i finally finished this case, I find myself interested in phase cooling and contimplating doing a half WC half Phase setup. 
By the way my fiance hates my new obestion, and despises this site due to all the great ideas i get from it!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Can i join Please? Afterall, the H50 is a water cooler. Just pre-built.


sure, but read the first post, you have to post pictures in this thread.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

With all of these 800ds being posted lately I'm surprised I've never seen one at a lan. All I ever see are Hafs, antec 1200s, and god forbid xclios.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*









Ya its gotten to be a real expensive hobby. First it decided to just build my own computer, then i found out about WC, so i jump right in. Then the addiction came, and now i find myself seeing whats new and if i can justify getting it which I somehow always do. Now that i finally finished this case, I find myself interested in phase cooling and contimplating doing a half WC half Phase setup. 
By the way my fiance hates my new obestion, and despises this site due to all the great ideas i get from it!










It really does get addictive. I've finally run out of wc parts to spend money on. I keep trying to find something, but can't warrant the cost, so just like you said I've worked a phase change plan into the build (link in sig), just have to wait until Ivy Bridge so I can make sure the unit fits 2x 2011 sockets. I think my gpus will be just fine on 12x120 rad area.


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13154905*
> With all of these 800ds being posted lately I'm surprised I've never seen one at a lan. All I ever see are Hafs, antec 1200s, and god forbid xclios.


I'm sure my 800D is weight over 60 lbs (27 kg)... sure you won't ever see them carrying around that much


----------



## odin2free

but that is why they have wheels for it


----------



## Mongol

My 800 weighs 57 lbs exactly... (drained) pass on carrying to a lan. (Though filling a loop at a lan with an evil look on your face would mean srsbsnss)

Oh and Stal...if you haven't gotten it already, be on the lookout for a manila envelope.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13154905*
> With all of these 800ds being posted lately I'm surprised I've never seen one at a lan. All I ever see are Hafs, antec 1200s, and god forbid xclios..


That also one of the reasons im considering switching to the white 600t when it hits the market. The 800D weights a ton..


----------



## Stevedawg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;13154504*
> Gotta get those cards under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > I hate GPU fan noise. That's why I did it.


Oh I will. Even if i turn the high speed yates all the way up the video cards are still audible and it annoys me. I am waiting to see what the EK blocks look like and deciding from there.


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevedawg;13155156*
> Oh I will. Even if i turn the high speed yates all the way up the video cards are still audible and it annoys me. I am waiting to see what the EK blocks look like and deciding from there.


I were on the same boat as you, I couldn't wait for EK blocks any longer, so I jumped over with Watercool Heatkiller blocks.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen;13155080*
> That also one of the reasons im considering switching to the white 600t when it hits the market. The 800D weights a ton..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;13154985*
> I'm sure my 800D is weight over 60 lbs (27 kg)... sure you won't ever see them carrying around that much


cmon... mine's over 120 and I still take it. I use a dolly or just put casters on it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odin2free;13154994*
> but that is why they have wheels for it


Yes, yes, and yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;13155017*
> My 800 weighs 57 lbs exactly... (drained) pass on carrying to a lan. (Though filling a loop at a lan with an evil look on your face would mean srsbsnss)
> 
> Oh and Stal...if you haven't gotten it already, be on the lookout for a manila envelope.


No need to drain it before transport if you did a solid job on the loop. Never had a leak after taking mine to 6+ lans.

I'll keep a look out for it. Thanks again for sending that piece


----------



## hollywood406

Hey Kevin!

Congrats on 1000+ pages of awesome thread







Thanks for hanging in there to keep track of the watercooling wonder(s). What is it, like 20+ months? Nice job!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hollywood406;13155522*
> hey kevin!
> 
> Congrats on 1000+ pages of awesome thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for hanging in there to keep track of the watercooling wonder(s). What is it, like 20+ months? Nice job!


:d


----------



## Mongol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13155442*
> cmon... mine's over 120 and I still take it. I use a dolly or just put casters on it.
> 
> Yes, yes, and yes
> 
> No need to drain it before transport if you did a solid job on the loop. Never had a leak after taking mine to 6+ lans.
> 
> I'll keep a look out for it. Thanks again for sending that piece


Meh...no lans around here anyway. And I sent 2...just in case.









Plus I found another 12x12 sheet I forgot all about...ideas ideas. Prolly carbon the ek bridge.


----------



## amantonas

Yeah, when I hang out with my friends, I just bring my computer and pull my monitor off the wall. As long as you clamp it well, it won't leak. At least not for me, anyway. And mine's 100 pounds filled. The only awkward thing is carrying it. I just bought an $8 dolly from big lots and I roll that thing around.


----------



## catcherintherye

Just watercooled so I thought I'd contribute some pics.


----------



## coolhandluke41

nice looking rig catcherintherye
congrats


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catcherintherye;13156243*
> Just watercooled so I thought I'd contribute some pics.


I usually don't think HAF-X rigs look cool, but that's really nice!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catcherintherye;13156243*
> Just watercooled so I thought I'd contribute some pics.


Interesting contrast the fusia & orange against the black haf-x. Looks extremely well done, I like the fan on the bottom rad, lovely









edit: keep an eye on that tube connecting your res and pump btw


----------



## catcherintherye

Thanks for the comments guys. I was driving outside just now and realized the sunset kind of reminded me of my rig, lol, maybe I'm inside too much. Member 777, woot.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13156826*
> edit: keep an eye on that tube connecting your res and pump btw


Yea I was thinking the light source might somehow melt/warp the tube too. But so far so good. Luckily it's cold cathode and not hot cathode, although it is somewhat warm. If you're referring to possible micro-organisms growing I hope the amount of UV in the case will do a number on them.

Your work is good as well I watched your MTN Mods and Corsair builds, gj.


----------



## Havoknova

a little bit og update on the rig =)

old










new




























=)


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Quick question for you intel overclockers on water.

For a 930 running a 50% OC (4.2ghz), or frankly anything over 4ghz, what VCore are you running, for a stable system, preferably 24/7? And what temps with it?

Im gettin back into overclocking (a few years out of the game) and I got a i7 for a deal that rivalled highway robbery, I got it mostly stable (water stuff is on its way) but im having a hard time getting past 4.01ghz.

**EDIT**
Also, anyone know if there is an aftermarket side panel for the Cosmos S that supports say 4x120mm fans?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc;13157416*
> Quick question for you intel overclockers on water.
> 
> For a 930 running a 50% OC (4.2ghz), or frankly anything over 4ghz, what VCore are you running, for a stable system, preferably 24/7? And what temps with it?
> 
> Im gettin back into overclocking (a few years out of the game) and I got a i7 for a deal that rivalled highway robbery, I got it mostly stable (water stuff is on its way) but im having a hard time getting past 4.01ghz.


Stay under 1.4v and keep your temps under 85'C max LinX load.

Use LinX or IBT to test temps and stability.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Well I might as well contribute...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

my 930 runs 4.2 or 4.3ghz most of the time depending on temps it stays in 50s up to low 70s at 4400.

4.0 1.24 vcore
4.2 1.31 vcore
4.3 1.37 vcoe
4.4 1.41-1.43 varies


----------



## Gawdz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;13157470*
> Well I might as well contribute...


Looks insane man, does anyone know where i could mount a Rad on a CM Haf 912 Advanced on the inside?


----------



## coolhandluke41

200MM on top ,if you remove front HDD rack probably one more 200 or 140
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12103/ex-rad-186/Phobya_Xtreme_200mm_Radiator_Silverstone_Cooler_Master_Yate_Loon.html?tl=g30c95s1344
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10463/ex-rad-180/Black_Ice_SR1_Low_Air_Flow_Optimized_-_140_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s929


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gawdz;13157791*
> Looks insane man, does anyone know where i could mount a Rad on a CM Haf 912 Advanced on the inside?


240mm on the top, 120 on the back, stock.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc*


Quick question for you intel overclockers on water.

For a 930 running a 50% OC (4.2ghz), or frankly anything over 4ghz, what VCore are you running, for a stable system, preferably 24/7? And what temps with it?

Im gettin back into overclocking (a few years out of the game) and I got a i7 for a deal that rivalled highway robbery, I got it mostly stable (water stuff is on its way) but im having a hard time getting past 4.01ghz.

**EDIT**
Also, anyone know if there is an aftermarket side panel for the Cosmos S that supports say 4x120mm fans?


Running 1.300v stable @ 4.2. I can boot to 1.29375 but it bsod under prime


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

I'd talk to Bill Owen at MNPCTech for a side panel to go on your Cosmos. He can probably do a full acrylic one with fans wherever you want them.


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;13130084*
> well i redid my loop and got my new psu in its about as good as im gonna get it probly.


why did you make ur coils look fugly


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`;13167916*
> why did you make ur coils look fugly


leave Sanford and son alone lol, its not his fault he is poor lol (just joking dude don't pop on me)Plus I think they are not springs they are rope lights


----------



## dido714

i finally had time today to take some pictures of my new loop. went for a orange/copper color and black. bought a new case, rad, gpu block and pump for my rig. swiftech655, koolance 18-FPI Aluminum, danger den summit and some orange koolance tubing 1/2". got most of this stuff 1/2 price on ebay, so it didnt hurt my wallet "that" much.
tell me what you think and if i could do anything to increase flow/lower temps/decrease noise please? thanks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`*


why did you make ur coils look fugly


Lol if you never used them those things just dont turn out right look back at others with them none that iv seen ever look right i needed them for 1 part of the loop so figured id put them on the rest. Im still debating removing them tho and just leaving them on the 1 tubing needed.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


leave Sanford and son alone lol, its not his fault he is poor lol (just joking dude don't pop on me)


Poor lol hows using anti-kinks=Poor


----------



## MAD_J

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*












^This.


----------



## bundymania

SANSO PDH 054 IT9 24V Attacchi filettati - Ybris Cooling










affidabilitÃ* assoluta
* potenza elevatissima
* silenziositÃ*
* possibilitÃ* di gestire qualsiasi configurazione , non esiste limite anche nei **** piu' complessi.
** alimentazione 24V cc 
* assorbimento massimo 2,3 A
* potenza motore 55 W
* Prevalenza max 19 mt*


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dido714;13168820*
> i finally had time today to take some pictures of my new loop. went for a orange/copper color and black. bought a new case, rad, gpu block and pump for my rig. swiftech655, koolance 18-FPI Aluminum, danger den summit and some orange koolance tubing 1/2". got most of this stuff 1/2 price on ebay, so it didnt hurt my wallet "that" much.
> tell me what you think and if i could do anything to increase flow/lower temps/decrease noise please? thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it looks great! I don't know what you could do to make it quieter though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## TheSchlaf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *odin2free*


but that is why they have wheels for it










They have wheels for the 800D?


----------



## amantonas

You can screw them in, or buy the Lian Li casters.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*




















SANSO PDH 054 IT9 24V Attacchi filettati - Ybris Cooling










affidabilitÃ* assoluta
* potenza elevatissima
* silenziositÃ*
* possibilitÃ* di gestire qualsiasi configurazione , non esiste limite anche nei **** piu' complessi.
** alimentazione 24V cc 
* assorbimento massimo 2,3 A
* potenza motore 55 W
* Prevalenza max 19 mt*


I would like to be able to say those are cool but can't read any of the specs is there a English translation and a comparison to say the D5?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dido714*


i finally had time today to take some pictures of my new loop. went for a orange/copper color and black. bought a new case, rad, gpu block and pump for my rig. swiftech655, *koolance 18-FPI Aluminum*, danger den summit and some orange koolance tubing 1/2". got most of this stuff 1/2 price on ebay, so it didnt hurt my wallet "that" much.
tell me what you think and if i could do anything to increase flow/lower temps/decrease noise please? thanks









*pics*


I hope you don't have an aluminum rad in with all your copper blocks? That's going to corrode on you, I'd really suggest a different rad and in the mean time run some car coolant with corrosion inhibitors.


----------



## z0mi3ie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jurkevicz*


On Steroids!










I've had it for the past 3 years withy many changes...
With a 8800GTX









With a 285GTX:










And now it has a Radeon 5970 (it fits!!!).
But I'll post a pic soon...








My site: http://www.jurkevicz.com


You are the man!!!


----------



## wermad

^^^quote one pic pls


----------



## grazz1984

Hi if i got some Thermochill Non Conductive will i still need silver kill coil?

Thanks


----------



## amantonas

Yeah, you should get it.


----------



## Rexel

Hey

I upgraded my watercooling earlier this year from this to

(Sorry for the bad photo quality! made it with my photo )

As you can see I still need to do something about that horrible cable management!, oh and if you are wondering where my HDD is. it between the top of case and the white top

Yours,

Rex!


----------



## vexvegaz

new build..


----------



## R00ST3R

^Nice bench!^

I like what you did with the Spot Cools there


----------



## MURDoctrine

Hey guys whats a good fan controller to get to control my fans on my rad. Working on making my rig as quiet as possible. Will be controlling 3-6 fans.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vexvegaz;13180039*
> new build..


Nice setup.


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


Hey guys whats a good fan controller to get to control my fans on my rad. Working on making my rig as quiet as possible. Will be controlling 3-6 fans.


This or the 4 knob one.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


This or the 4 knob one.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vexvegaz*


new build..


























Is it just me or does it look as if it has bug eyes lol!!! I don't want my computer looking at me will I am playing with my keyboard (admit it you thought I was going to say something else) and feel as if I was cheating on it lol


----------



## nden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vexvegaz*


new build..










Nice








the pump sit on the table too?


----------



## vexvegaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


^Nice bench!^

I like what you did with the Spot Cools there











Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Nice setup.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


Is it just me or does it look as if it has bug eyes lol!!! I don't want my computer looking at me will I am playing with my keyboard (admit it you thought I was going to say something else) and feel as if I was cheating on it lol


thanks..it does look like a bug lol got the idea from here
http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...l#post10681910

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nden*


Nice








the pump sit on the table too?


no, not sure where i wanna mount the pump. thinking of placing the pump right under the res or in the drive bay.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vexvegaz*


thanks..it does look like a bug lol got the idea from here
http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...l#post10681910

no, not sure where i wanna mount the pump. thinking of placing the pump right under the res or in the drive bay.


dam you almost cloned it lol, it does look great just joking around with the bug thing! I am thinking of upgrading my D5 to the bitspower kits like you did how well does it work over the stock or is it just looks, because you can get the plastic one threaded! but if it does work better it mite be worth it or getting the koolance version.


----------



## vexvegaz

not sure if it adds anything in performance but i do like the options it gives me with the extra 3 in/out outlets. I do think the main pump housing does help in keeping the actual pump a fraction cooler.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


Hey guys whats a good fan controller to get to control my fans on my rad. Working on making my rig as quiet as possible. Will be controlling 3-6 fans.


Lamptrons


----------



## Bradford1040

Its ether this case or the 800d

I am still thinking on a case for my second build this case mite be the one! There are so many good cases out now but wanted the nivida case or paint one up like it which was my plan if I got the 800d but this seems to fit everything and only has one thing I don't like is the small window wish it was bigger but shears and time and plexiglass can fix that lol! tell me what you guys think? remember this is getting xfx790I board and three xfx gtx260's which are green and black I think it should be a good looking build for back up gamer rig


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Why not the Danger Den Tower 29 (can be purchased in nearly any color you want) or the Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24 (MM will paint whatever color u want)?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Why not the Danger Den Tower 29 (can be purchased in nearly any color you want) or the Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24 (MM will paint whatever color u want)?


ok I like both of them but not really shore on how to go about ordering them cause I don't know exactly what i need and they seem like they are custom built and i don't want to sound stupid but I really don't know where to start to tell anyone how I want it and plus it is like 400plus dollars right?


----------



## Bradford1040

do you have something to say against those cases? like is there a reason I should get some other one? I am building just a back up gamer for lan & work as my media/gamer at home is way to hooked in to the house to leave! I have everything running through it got it hooked into cable for DVR and it is hooked up to every tv in the house via hdmi switcher so sound can be had on two different tvs with movie that is playing on it plus 5.1 at the game station, but most of the time just use network to play movies through the room pc/laptop hooked into the tv also. I have way to many computers after writing this lol!!!!

My kids all wanted there own which I understand and I just built them micro's hooked into there tv's in there rooms all but my room which I have a laptop that I carry with me to job sites for quotes and billing and price look up

Another one I was looking at was the new themaltake level 10 gt?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

The Danger Den and Mountain Mods cases are slightly higher end than the cases listed above. You'd be looking in the mid to high $300s with shipping on them. The mountain mods pinnacle 24 is great since you have tons of options with panels depending on the setup you want, can also swap out panels quite easily since they sell them separately if you need them rather cheap. Both the Tower 29 and the pinnacle are tailored for watercooling, but they are also amazing air cooling cases since they have great airflow potential. Danger den makes all sorts of different sized cases, cheaper ones as well. The Tower 29 is their flagship case. Mountain Mods also has the monticle which seems to be perfect for what you say you need, and is much cheaper. You can play around with configs on mountainmods.com with the CYO flash picker. it'll show you visually how the case will look with the config u pick. After going with a mountain mods case I'm hard pressed to buy a case from any other company. The quality is just amazing as well as the potential for expansion.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


The Danger Den and Mountain Mods cases are slightly higher end than the cases listed above. You'd be looking in the mid to high $300s with shipping on them. The mountain mods pinnacle 24 is great since you have tons of options with panels depending on the setup you want, can also swap out panels quite easily since they sell them separately if you need them rather cheap. Both the Tower 29 and the pinnacle are tailored for watercooling, but they are also amazing air cooling cases since they have great airflow potential. Danger den makes all sorts of different sized cases, cheaper ones as well. The Tower 29 is their flagship case. Mountain Mods also has the monticle which seems to be perfect for what you say you need, and is much cheaper. You can play around with configs on mountainmods.com with the CYO flash picker. it'll show you visually how the case will look with the config u pick. After going with a mountain mods case I'm hard pressed to buy a case from any other company. The quality is just amazing as well as the potential for expansion.


I can see they look great, the problem I seem to have is every time I start building what I want it comes out to be like 400~500 bucks lol I just can't help myself, I guess I am addicted to this obsession lol. I think I will get a mountain mod after this build for my next bad boy I am saving up for which should be by June if Bulldozer is good if not going to build a twin Intel set up like the sr2 or something like that. Trust me I really do want to get the Mountain mod but just not in this budget unless I am missing something on there site I need a ATX for three way sli and 240 & 120 rad with Nvidia look but the case needs to be able to air cool in till I get up the 400 bucks for the cards water blocks I have the cpu block and 240 rad just need another pump and hose! I would go MM route if I can get the case I need delivered for 250~275$ as per my budget on this set up! If you think I can please help cause I can't seem to put it together with out going into 350 range


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

The Danger Den Tower 26 fits that price range, will support 3 way sli aircooled well, supports aircooling well as well as wc quite well. You can also get it in the green theme that you wanted. Just trying to save you from having yet another 800d build. Wermad was really the only one who made an 800d unique.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


The Danger Den Tower 26 fits that price range, will support 3 way sli aircooled well, supports aircooling well as well as wc quite well. You can also get it in the green theme that you wanted. Just trying to save you from having yet another 800d build. Wermad was really the only one who made an 800d unique.


Thank you Rep+ for helping out but you got it a little wrong I was leaning this case not the 800d http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811133100 check that out I do like the DD26 but it seems a little off for my taste I like the MM cases much better


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

seems like a decent case for the money. Really aren't many great options for tri sli setups for under $300. I understand about the danger den cases. You either love em or hate em


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


seems like a decent case for the money. Really aren't many great options for tri sli setups for under $300. I understand about the danger den cases. You either love em or hate em


I like some moded ones I have seen but its hard to buy something you just don't like and see what it can become! I have been himin and hawin on this case for a week but found one on ebay for 211 free ship so mite just do that, I don't know I hate making up my mind thats why I want a store back that carries this stuff but best buy put comp usa out of biz in this area F***ing AzzHol*s and now they don't ever have anything in stock its always well we can order it for you but you need to pay for it now!!! (a stock item that you have to pre-pay for) I hate then so bad they eve have highest price and say its because they have the items right there but they don't stock it lol well we all have been in that situation. I have to order soon or I will just have these other parts laying around doing nothing but wasted money as fast as things become obsolete. as it is the gtx260's are out dated but still play 95% of my games on steam so need to get use out of them


----------



## Bradford1040

ok last question fat_italian_stallion what do you think of the thermatake level 10 gt? it is nice looking but will it fit water easy? they say it is made for it but looks as if I would have to do outside unit! that was my last choice before that nvidia case


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

level 10 gt is garbage. I have a friend with one and the plastic headset mount is already broken after only a few weeks. It won't fit a quality loop in it either. It's just a horrendously designed case. You can only fit a 240 and a 120 rad inside it. What will that cool? just a cpu...


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


level 10 gt is garbage. I have a friend with one and the plastic headset mount is already broken after only a few weeks. It won't fit a quality loop in it either. It's just a horrendously designed case. You can only fit a 240 and a 120 rad inside it. What will that cool? just a cpu...


well that is what I want a 240 and a 120 but if the case is crap then it is crap, thank you again, it just had a cool look


----------



## jacobthellamer

posted in wrong thread.. :/

Edit:
my GPU blocks







had my 5770's sitting at 26Â°C on 3D mark 11 last night


----------



## Dissentience

What the?

EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jacobthellamer*


wrong thread


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


This or the 4 knob one.


Yeah the Sunbeam Extreme is a beast. I have 10 LED fans running off it, and im only using 4 out of the 6 channels.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13185108*
> level 10 gt is garbage. I have a friend with one and the plastic headset mount is already broken after only a few weeks. It won't fit a quality loop in it either. It's just a horrendously designed case. You can only fit a 240 and a 120 rad inside it. What will that cool? just a cpu...


It will cool a CPU and a GPU or two. Not everyone wants to run a 360 rad for every block, cough overkill cough.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;13189649*
> It will cool a CPU and a GPU or two. Not everyone wants to run a 360 rad for every block, cough overkill cough.


so you think that the case is ok then or is the one other one i was looking at better This is the one I really kinda like it has a video card cooler also you need to watch reviews on it


----------



## wermad

Best wc cases (mass-produced) imo:

800/700D
TJ07
HAF 932/X

Can't go wrong w/ any of these.


----------



## Mikecdm

You guys and your fancy pics with pretty set ups. What you know about this


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Best wc cases (mass-produced) imo:

800/700D
TJ07
HAF 932/X

Can't go wrong w/ any of these.


did you see the one i was looking at? it is going to be a lan machine so don't want to heavy, but want well built to handle the moves and all so color is a big thing going for the nvidia look and don't want to spend a truck load of money on this build as it is just a lan build not my main rig

is that a rubber band holding the fans lol look down


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


is that a rubber band holding the fans lol look down


use whatever you have, as long as it works









Sorry, missed you mentioning a lan case. That TT nvidia looks nice


----------



## catcherintherye

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vermillion*


Yeah the Sunbeam Extreme is a beast. I have 10 LED fans running off it, and im only using 4 out of the 6 channels.


Any good guides tips, or accessories that allows you to combine fans so that one knob can control multiple fans?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catcherintherye;13190490*
> Any good guides tips, or accessories that allows you to combine fans so that one knob can control multiple fans?


Make sure you know how many watts per channel for the fan controller you are looking into.

Then find out how much watts your fans use (amps x volts = watts). ie: my 120mm medium Yate loons use 0.30 amps @ max x 12 volts = ~ 3.6 watts @ max rated speed.

so a controller w/ 6 channels each supporting 12watts (ie my beautiful but wimpy Scythe Kaze Master Pros) I can hook up at most 3 fans (~10.8 watts). If add a fourth, the fans slow down considerably since the channel cannot pump more watts to support them at full power.

Hence why I like and recommend the Lamptron controllers as they offer a lot of wattage per channel if you are looking into hooking up a lot of fans.


----------



## R00ST3R

Y-cables work for multiple fans on one channel:
http://jab-tech.com/3-Pin-Y-Cable-Factory-Sleeved-Black-FC333-6BKS-pr-4555.html


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13190460*
> use whatever you have, as long as it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, missed you mentioning a lan case. That TT nvidia looks nice


no problem on missing that! I think everyone did but one guy and he still was trying to talk me into the 800d lol, and I was wondering if the thematake level 10 gt was good for same thing and which is better? that was my original question


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dido714*


i finally had time today to take some pictures of my new loop. went for a orange/copper color and black. bought a new case, rad, gpu block and pump for my rig. swiftech655, koolance 18-FPI Aluminum, danger den summit and some orange koolance tubing 1/2". got most of this stuff 1/2 price on ebay, so it didnt hurt my wallet "that" much.
tell me what you think and if i could do anything to increase flow/lower temps/decrease noise please? thanks



















love the orange!


----------



## catcherintherye

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Make sure you know how many watts per channel for the fan controller you are looking into.

Then find out how much watts your fans use (amps x volts = watts). ie: my 120mm medium Yate loons use 0.30 amps @ max x 12 volts = ~ 3.6 watts @ max rated speed.

so a controller w/ 6 channels each supporting 12watts (ie my beautiful but wimpy Scythe Kaze Master Pros) I can hook up at most 3 fans (~10.8 watts). If add a fourth, the fans slow down considerably since the channel cannot pump more watts to support them at full power.

Hence why I like and recommend the Lamptron controllers as they offer a lot of wattage per channel if you are looking into hooking up a lot of fans.


Hmm, good info, thanks. I have a Sunbeam Rheosmart 6 with 30 watts/channel, looks like I can put quite a few GT 1850s on. Do you know if I can just use a bunch of 3 pin Y cables in succession, or something similar to that, or is some soldering of the fans together required?


----------



## 12Cores

Updated - 5770/5750 CF 
New Mobo,


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Wermad was really the only one who made an 800d unique.


Sorry to hear that, clearly you haven't looked at too many of the 800 builds around here...







You should check out EndWar's build or some of the others, including mine, that were doing 'unique' things well before wermad...


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Sorry to hear that, clearly you haven't looked at too many of the 800 builds around here...







You should check out EndWar's build or some of the others, including mine, that were doing 'unique' things well before wermad...


True this, I maybe the only one that relocated the psu, I have yet to find any one else w/ this mod.

There are plenty of unique 700/800D builds out there. EndWar's was the inspiration for the 480mm radiator @ the bottom. CharlieHorse's encouragement resulted in the 480mm @ the top. The psu mod was all me







.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catcherintherye*


Hmm, good info, thanks. I have a Sunbeam Rheosmart 6 with 30 watts/channel, looks like I can put quite a few GT 1850s on. Do you know if I can just use a bunch of 3 pin Y cables in succession, or something similar to that, or is some soldering of the fans together required?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


Y-cables work for multiple fans on one channel:
http://jab-tech.com/3-Pin-Y-Cable-Fa...S-pr-4555.html


Covered that


----------



## catcherintherye

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


Covered that










Cool thanks bro.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*   so you think that the case is ok then or is the one other one i was looking at better This is the one I really kinda like it has a video card cooler also you need to watch reviews on it  
I couldn't find a review on the NVidia version but here is one on the regular one. Doesn't sound like the best case for watercooling. Looking at the top it doesn't look like you can fit a rad and fans inside with out hitting the ram.
  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CY4tt_xoKA&feature=related  



 

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*   no problem on missing that! I think everyone did but one guy and he still was trying to talk me into the 800d lol, and I was wondering if the thematake level 10 gt was good for same thing and which is better? that was my original question  
I would say the 800d is a better case, I wouldn't want to take it to a lan party though. For a lan rig with great watercooling I would go with a CM690II. It can hold 2x240 rad's, lighter(easier to carry), and much cheaper(you won't care as much if it gets dinged up from lugging it around)
690II Basic(no HDD dock)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-215-_-Product
690II Adv(Has a HDD dock)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-216-_-Product


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catcherintherye;13192572*
> Hmm, good info, thanks. I have a Sunbeam Rheosmart 6 with 30 watts/channel, looks like I can put quite a few GT 1850s on. Do you know if I can just use a bunch of 3 pin Y cables in succession, or something similar to that, or is some soldering of the fans together required?


Yeah I modded some 3 pin Y cables to handle 3 fans per cable. It makes for a very clean setup for push/pull rad fans.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


I couldn't find a review on the NVidia version but here is one on the regular one. Doesn't sound like the best case for watercooling. Looking at the top it doesn't look like you can fit a rad and fans inside with out hitting the ram.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CY4t...eature=related

I would say the 800d is a better case, I wouldn't want to take it to a lan party though. For a lan rig with great watercooling I would go with a CM690II. It can hold 2x240 rad's, lighter(easier to carry), and much cheaper(you won't care as much if it gets dinged up from lugging it around)
690II Basic(no HDD dock)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-215-_-Product
690II Adv(Has a HDD dock)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-216-_-Product


thanks but the review i told you to watch was right on the link i gave you its on new egg just below the pictures lol but it is that same case just has a few more features


----------



## GoodInk

I watched that but I wouldn't call newegg's videos reviews, more like an overview. They will never tell you the bad parts of any product they sell. All air ducks are nice if you are going to go air, but as you are wanting to watercool they won't be much help. It is a nice looking case and looks to be a great case for air, but at that price there is a ton of cases out there. If you are wanting to go with that case, you can make it work. If a rad won't fit up top you can always put it up front in the drive bays. Keep in mind that the case wieghs in at 31.15 lbs. plus everything you put in it you'll be looking at 40+ ibs. For me I would not want to lug that to a lan party.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


I watched that but I wouldn't call newegg's videos reviews, more like an overview. They will never tell you the bad parts of any product they sell. All air ducks are nice if you are going to go air, but as you are wanting to watercool they won't be much help. It is a nice looking case and looks to be a great case for air, but at that price there is a ton of cases out there. If you are wanting to go with that case, you can make it work. If a rad won't fit up top you can always put it up front in the drive bays. Keep in mind that the case wieghs in at 31.15 lbs. plus everything you put in it you'll be looking at 40+ ibs. For me I would not want to lug that to a lan party.


lol it is heavy but I am starting on air first as it will be a little bit before water goes in it


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


I watched that but I wouldn't call newegg's videos reviews, more like an overview. They will never tell you the bad parts of any product they sell. All air ducks are nice if you are going to go air, but as you are wanting to watercool they won't be much help. It is a nice looking case and looks to be a great case for air, but at that price there is a ton of cases out there. If you are wanting to go with that case, you can make it work. If a rad won't fit up top you can always put it up front in the drive bays. Keep in mind that the case wieghs in at 31.15 lbs. plus everything you put in it you'll be looking at 40+ ibs. For me I would not want to lug that to a lan party.


bah my 800D with everything in it weighs almost 70lbs and i lug that around


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;13202435*
> bah my 800D with everything in it weighs almost 70lbs and i lug that around


Ya my 700D is full of water and weighs in around 70lbs+ and I go to LANs with it.
Not as if I am carrying it the whole time


----------



## kevingreenbmx

sorry, too busy to update:


----------



## Dissentience

I've never weighed my case but it weighs similar to one of my smaller guitar amps (~50lbs)


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13202920*
> sorry, too busy to update:










of course


----------



## Onions

lol portal2 > everything yo add me on steam onius713


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13203918*
> lol portal2 > everything yo add me on steam onius713


I just invited you on steam


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13203948*
> I just invited you on steam


Hows the gameplay of portal2???pretty epic??


----------



## skyravr

Well,

pic of my first WC-setup EVER.
I'm in love with my rig








[URL=http://img13.imageshack.us/i/img021tg.jpg/] Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Temps are nice, both gpu's idle at 29-30°C and load at 38-39°C (in BC2)


----------



## Zmanster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyravr;13204607*
> Well,
> 
> pic of my first WC-setup EVER.
> I'm in love with my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are nice, both gpu's idle at 29-30°C and load at 38-39°C (in BC2)


Very Nice Build. You should be damn proud this being your first came out so elegantly neat.


----------



## skyravr

Thx







, now i only need to get rid of the yellow of the PSU


----------



## nden

Does Youtube video count? Here is mine: Updated
(sorry. amateur handheld video)

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fKYtpKkHrQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fKYtpKkHrQ"]Youtube[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## KrynnTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Hey Guys, today i just wanna show you this prototype of a dual laing metal top from Marc (liquidextasy.de) ItÂ´s not sure, if he ever can produce it for the mass market, because he only has a little "machine park" and such a top will cost about 60-70 eur or more...i guess




















Hello, i'm not trying to be stupid.... but... Why would you ever do that?

If you think about it you are not getting any extra GPM (Flow Rate) from this...

The only way you could receive any extra flow would be to set up dual pumps like shown in the attachment...(sorry just did it in paint.)


----------



## coolhandluke41

are you trying to reinvent the wheel here ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KrynnTech;13205657*
> Hello, i'm not trying to be stupid.... but... Why would you ever do that?
> 
> If you think about it you are not getting any extra GPM (Flow Rate) from this...
> 
> The only way you could receive any extra flow would be to set up dual pumps like shown in the attachment...(sorry just did it in paint.)


Most run two pumps for redundancy, meaning if one fails the other will continue to operate and keep the loop in circulation. You are correct, one pump is really what most need.


----------



## Compaddict

I never get tired of looking through this thread.









I am grateful to of you all for getting me into water cooling. Not just because my rig runs much cooler and quieter, or for the enjoyment of putting my rig together with great looking gear, but to be in this club where every rig is artwork. Thanks everyone, I love being part of this.









I will have some more pics to offer in the next week or so. Keep up the great work!


----------



## Johnsen

Well. I had to change my psu this afternoone and had some white and black folio laying around - so while i was at it I also choose to redo my loop and try cover the one side panel. So and this point im no sure if I should continue or just peel it off again... Well im gonna try to do the front, top and back panel tomoroe maybe And again forgot to pu on the EK block i have for my 5850. But at this point the card is so old i figured i never going to mount it before changing it so why bother.. Anyway..

Im not sure how well it turned out, but I did take me whole day removing and redo the loop.

Here are some pics.









Before:









Removed he side window:








Starting:








First step:








And side panel and interior done.:








More:

































More to come.


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyravr;13204607*
> Well,
> 
> pic of my first WC-setup EVER.
> I'm in love with my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are nice, both gpu's idle at 29-30°C and load at 38-39°C (in BC2)


nice job, is that paracord?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;13205329*
> Does Youtube video count? Here is mine: Updated
> (sorry. amateur handheld video)
> 
> Youtube


Heh, why do you have two pumps? Especially, two D5s?


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13207009*
> Heh, why do you have two pumps? Especially, two D5s?


Love the extra pump


----------



## KrynnTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;13205934*
> are you trying to reinvent the wheel here ?


No just trying to help people from wasting money... that piece itself cost as much as a pump.(not to mention mounting it must be a nightmare) Why not use my way if you want 2 pumps and double your flow while having a redundant pump as well?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KrynnTech;13207185*
> No just trying to help people from wasting money... that piece itself cost as much as a pump.(not to mention mounting it must be a nightmare) Why not use my way if you want 2 pumps and double your flow while having a redundant pump as well?


Bundy reviews water cooling products. I doubt he buys them.


----------



## Onions

he doesnt buy them and we all hate love him so much for it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KrynnTech;13207185*
> No just trying to help people from wasting money... that piece itself cost as much as a pump.(not to mention mounting it must be a nightmare) Why not use my way if you want 2 pumps and double your flow while having a redundant pump as well?


Don't freak out, but XSPC makes a triple DDC top









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_769&products_id=26660


----------



## Onions

omg i does need XD i wonder if i can get my hands on a nother 350 pump to throw in there


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13208242*
> omg i does need XD i wonder if i can get my hands on a nother 350 pump to throw in there


Any one further objects to overkill, this is what I have to say:


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Where's mah quad DDC top?


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;13207149*
> Love the extra pump


This doesn't explain why.

One D5 is more than enough for your setup. With a second pump, you're just adding more heat to your loop. Your temps don't get any cooler with faster than sufficient flow.


----------



## Onions

lol heat omg rly you do realise that the heat from a pump is to little to add to anytthing else.. hell i bet you could put 20 pumps in a loop and it might might add like half a degree


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13208383*
> lol heat omg rly you do realise that the heat from a pump is to little to add to anytthing else.. hell i bet you could put 20 pumps in a loop and it might might add like half a degree












You and I both know that it's more than half a degree. Try a significant amount of heat, read: SEVERAL DEGREES. Some pumps can get so hot that they melt through Petra's GelStuff.

More heat is more heat, bro. If you don't need the extra flow, all you're doing is drawing more juice from the wall at the cost of more heat.


----------



## Onions

lol and really then what do you need water coolign for stock parts are fine for almost anygame... its all for fun and the more the merrier. pumps add little problems to loops and at the cost of what a penny a week... ill spare 2 quarters a year so i can say "hey look at me i got more then you"


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13208324*
> This doesn't explain why.
> 
> One D5 is more than enough for your setup. With a second pump, you're just adding more heat to your loop. Your temps don't get any cooler with faster than sufficient flow.


Some people want pump redundancy.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13208457*
> lol and really then what do you need water coolign for stock parts are fine for almost anygame... its all for fun and the more the merrier. pumps add little problems to loops and at the cost of what a penny a week... ill spare 2 quarters a year so i can say "hey look at me i got more then you"


As you wish.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13208485*
> Some people want pump redundancy.


As they wish.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13208522*
> As you wish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As they wish.


This coming from some one with an "overkill" system. Just like some have to have 3 gtx 480









Its all good bro, we all like to spend our money a little different


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13208522*
> As you wish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As they wish.


I'm just saying, I was talking to Martin about flowrate issues a while ago and he brought up having a second pump, not only for added flowrate/pressure but for redundancy.

Never thought about doing that until he mentioned so.

People like to have redundancy for RAID setups, so why not have redundancy for your water loop?


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13208587*
> This coming from some one with an "overkill" system. Just like some have to have 3 gtx 480
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its all good bro, we all like to spend our money a little different


I need the three water-cooled GTX 480s (really need three GTX 580s) for Nvidia Surround (triple monitor gaming), though.


----------



## KrynnTech

This is the first time i have seen this product... but i stand by my words.
You gain absolutely NO flow rate increase with a series of pumps. It's basic Physics...
You need to consider your potential output vs. your actual.
Bragging rights aside, there is no point&#8230;
Even with 3 pumps you would only see a potential of 33% gain if you did it my way&#8230; (Refer to diagram)


----------



## dido714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amantonas;13171952*
> I think it looks great! I don't know what you could do to make it quieter though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13173153*
> I hope you don't have an aluminum rad in with all your copper blocks? That's going to corrode on you, I'd really suggest a different rad and in the mean time run some car coolant with corrosion inhibitors.


oh really? >.> i guess i can add some antifreeze or something...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13190942*
> love the orange!


yeah, now the only thing i would want to get is a x58a-oc to finish it all off.
^_^


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey, I hhave decided I am going to start looking for a new person to help update the list, if you would like to volunteer, please let me know. I would prefer someone with 250+ rep and a decent history on the site.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13208128*
> Don't freak out, but XSPC makes a triple DDC top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_769&products_id=26660


I've been thinking about getting one of those. I have 4 mcp355s but only using two of them with a dualtop. The added heat won't hurt my system since I have more cooling than any setup will need. Too bad they don't make a 4x ddc top. I can just imagine the massive flow that 4 ddcs would put out. That would make my day. I'll just cut the foam to fit and stick it down below.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13211165*
> I've been thinking about getting one of those. I have 4 mcp355s but only using two of them with a dualtop. The added heat won't hurt my system since I have more cooling than any setup will need. Too bad they don't make a 4x ddc top. I can just imagine the massive flow that 4 ddcs would put out. That would make my day. I'll just cut the foam to fit and stick it down below.


link two duals or a triple to a single using fittings, same concept


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


link two duals or a triple to a single using fittings, same concept










I think it would be cool to link 2x triple ddcs together. Wonder how much stress it would put on the tubing at the fitting. Thank god for compression fittings. Fittings almost get more expensive than buying more tops sadly.


----------



## skyravr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


nice job, is that paracord?


Nope, I'ts MDPC small sleeve. And thx


----------



## bundymania

Pure Pump Power - SANSO PDH54 24V strikes again !









  
 You Tube


----------



## nden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Pure Pump Power - SANSO PDH54 24V strikes again !










wow... is that the whine noise from the pump?


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyravr*


Well,

pic of my first WC-setup EVER.
I'm in love with my rig








 Uploaded with ImageShack.us] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/URL]

Temps are nice, both gpu's idle at 29-30Â°C and load at 38-39Â°C (in BC2)


thats a nice setup for a first loop


----------



## bundymania

@nden: Yeah, Pump is that loud....but very powerful

and now...what youÂ´ve all been waiting for:



a nice piece of aluminum !


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I have received several volunteers so far to start helping me maintain the thread, anyone else interested in helping out?

I just need a break from updating for a few weeks...


----------



## sprower

Quick question.

On the EK FC6970 blocks do you have to use the o-ring/spacer on the copper side? Will fittings leak if I don't use the spacer included?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

I'd be interested Kev but sadly I don't have enough rep


----------



## TheRealHeavyG




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13216651*
> I'd be interested Kev but sadly I don't have enough rep


I am really just looking for someone with a good solid history with the site, I'll keep your offer in mind


----------



## coolhandluke41

@TheRealHeavyG..this is EK triple bridge with one 1x link blank ..right ?


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;11309634*
> OK you can add me I'm finally finished. Excuse the purple (UV blue) hose I meant to order black. you can see more pics on my build log.















































what in the world? what do you have in that base? a chiller? or a full phaser?


----------



## KrynnTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13215681*
> I have received several volunteers so far to start helping me maintain the thread, anyone else interested in helping out?
> 
> I just need a break from updating for a few weeks...


Ahh, I see ditching us to play Portal 2? lol...


----------



## TheRealHeavyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;13217477*
> @TheRealHeavyG..this is EK triple bridge with one 1x link blank ..right ?


It is the Dual Serial 3 Slot.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12180/ex-blc-825/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Serial_-_3-Slot_-_SLI_Connection_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Serial_3_-Slot.html?id=jTb26DIG&mv_pc=155


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13215803*
> Quick question.
> 
> On the EK FC6970 blocks do you have to use the o-ring/spacer on the copper side? Will fittings leak if I don't use the spacer included?


only if the fittings/plugs have long threads. most come w/ short threads so the spacer is not really required. For longer thread fittings/plugs, the spacer will avoid these fittings/plugs to block the flow.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13218530*
> only if the fittings/plugs have long threads. most come w/ short threads so the spacer is not really required. For longer thread fittings/plugs, the spacer will avoid these fittings/plugs to block the flow.


That was my assumption but couldn't dig up anything solid on it. Thanks!


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13218638*
> That was my assumption but couldn't dig up anything solid on it. Thanks!


I havent used the spacers with my FC6970 V2 and havent had a leak since install


----------



## sprower

^^Thanks!


----------



## grazz1984

Hi would it matter if i used my ek multioption upside down so the top is at bottom or there there anywere in uk were i can get another bottom to put on the top?

Thanks


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX;13218686*
> I havent used the spacers with my FC6970 V2 and havent had a leak since install


When its nickel you can (if you dare) leave out the spacers, its more in case of copper that you should use some.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Got my GT AP-15's today for my rad and wow. These fans are amazing. Quiet and move so much more air. Temps seem to have dropped around 1-3 degrees idle.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OverSightX*


I havent used the spacers with my FC6970 V2 and havent had a leak since install


















Not about leaking, its about blocking the flow of liquid. Most fittings use short threads now. When I got my ek 4870x2 block, they included these long thread plugs and barbs. I used them on the copper (or nickel plated) side because its the thinnest side w/ few threads (compared to the acrylic/acetal sides). All my gtx 470 blocks now included short threaded plugs and even the after market plugs have the short threads. All my compression fittings come w/ the short threads. Though, as a precaution, ek includes them for those preferring to use the long thread fittings/plugs on the metal side.


----------



## grazz1984

Nearly finished jus waiting on my rad
















[/IMG]


----------



## jp27

^ eww that looks busy as hell, blue mobo, black ram, white tubes, red cables LOL
are you colorblind or just tasteless?!














jkjk


----------



## grazz1984

jp27 said:


> ^ eww that looks busy as hell, blue mobo, black ram, white tubes, red cables LOL
> are you colorblind or just tasteless?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE
> 
> I think it looks pretty good but i am thinking of getting blue and black extenders though


----------



## MrJackson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;13220396*
> Nearly finished jus waiting on my rad


What's the point of the tube in the top of the res?


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrJackson*


What's the point of the tube in the top of the res?


Its so you can use the top port as the input into the res.


----------



## MrJackson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;13220590*
> Its so you can use the top port as the input into the res.


That makes sense, I was looking at it from a fill port standpoint and that would only let you fill it half way.


----------



## Mr.Zergling

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jp27*


^ eww that looks busy as hell, blue mobo, black ram, white tubes, red cables LOL
are you colorblind or just tasteless?!














jkjk


Gonna have to agree with you there


----------



## Johnsen

#&¤#%!!! So I had some time on my hands and decided it was about time to mount the EK waterblock for my 5850 that I had laying around for some months.. So i emptied my WC setup, took out the GFX and just when im about to take this baby appart i Realized - It's not a Refrence card..
Oh so the srew holes doent fit? Nope... they dont... Awesome...


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen;13227822*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #&¤#%!!! So I had some time on my hands and decided it was about time to mount the EK waterblock for my 5850 that I had laying around for some months.. So i emptied my WC setup, took out the GFX and just when im about to take this baby appart i Realized - It's not a Refrence card..
> Oh so the srew holes doent fit? Nope... they dont... Awesome...


dude that sucks!!!!! I had the same happen to me but I was lucky to have some extra money that month and just went out and bought two yes two new 460's and sold the others to offset the cost ended up only costing me a extra 150 (I mite of got lucky) but maybe you can do the same?


----------



## Sicarius

Hello fellow modders, i'd like to show my sig pc to you all!

It's a very modest WC setup, my old one was outrageous and kinda impractical, For this one i'm considering getting a 3x120 rad and adding water to my GPU's.

I would also like to take this opportunity to tell everyone that i hate phone camera's..









The pink water is a residu from *8* flushes of demi water to get the feser red dye out, i can safely tell everyone now: DON'T GET THAT STUFF!










Here's one of my old PC, the watercooling was in a separate box that i made out of MDF


















It was the first stepping of the AMD Phenom 2,5 ghz black edition, cant remember the number but it was a hot-head and a pain in the butt to OC


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Johnsen

Just took off the white folio agagin.. It looked kinda fugly..

Soo.. Some more pics then.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Johnsen*









#&Â¤#%!!! So I had some time on my hands and decided it was about time to mount the EK waterblock for my 5850 that I had laying around for some months.. So i emptied my WC setup, took out the GFX and just when im about to take this baby appart i Realized - It's not a Refrence card.. 
Oh so the srew holes doent fit? Nope... they dont... Awesome...










http://coolingconfigurator.com/

Also, beware, card makers like to deviate from the AMD/Nvidia reference pcb design all the time. Then, its all up to luck whether block makers will make one for these revised versions. Card makers have been sneaky lately and redesigning the pcb layout without renaming the card/model and/or announcing these revisions. Look for the "Amd" and "Nvidia" name on the pcb close to the pcie slot.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Bad Cellphone Camera...


----------



## wermad

^^^wow, 6990 and 6970 blocks line up perfectly. so it might be possible to use an ek fc bridge


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13236577*
> ^^^wow, 6990 and 6970 blocks line up perfectly. so it might be possible to use an ek fc bridge


Yep. I can't see why not. The only thing to watch for is the 6990 back plate sticks further out towards the fittings than the 6970 back plate. This is why EK give you silver extenders so your fittings will clear it. I'm not sure if thats gunna be a problem with the EK bridge


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13236635*
> Yep. I can't see why not. The only thing to watch for is the 6990 back plate sticks further out towards the fittings than the 6970 back plate. This is why EK give you silver extenders so your fittings will clear it. I'm not sure if thats gunna be a problem with the EK bridge


Shouldn't be, the bridges require links for each block and they attach to the plexi/acetal sides. You just need the plugs for the nickel/copper sides.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13236787*
> Shouldn't be, the bridges require links for each block and they attach to the plexi/acetal sides. You just need the plugs for the nickel/copper sides.


Yup I know what you mean, another thing is the two blocks are different in depth, the nickle layer is physically thinner on the 6990 than 6970.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13236884*
> Yup I know what you mean, another thing is the two blocks are different in depth, the nickle layer is physically thinner on the 6990 than 6970.


ah just noticed that, can't do it then







. I guess due to the massive size of the 6990 block it had to be a bit thinner than the 6970 block.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13236923*
> ah just noticed that, can't do it then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I guess due to the massive size of the 6990 block it had to be a bit thinner than the 6970 block.


Yea but heck that thing is still heavy as S**T!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13236577*
> ^^^wow, 6990 and 6970 blocks line up perfectly. so it might be possible to use an ek fc bridge


honestly I like the solution he has better since it is only two cards...

it is also probably cheaper.


----------



## BWG

Basic stuff. EK H30 Supreme Kit 120 with a 240 RAD and adding MCW80 when the 460 adapter comes.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Wow thats alot of tubing ^^^


----------



## BWG

RAD would not fit inside :-(


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13237096*
> updated
> 
> honestly I like the solution he has better since it is only two cards...
> 
> it is also probably cheaper.


agreed, especially if you have some nice bling fittings to show off


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## BWG

Thanks! I will do more to it. Maybe a mod to shorten tubing. Somehow.


----------



## elbeasto

I upgraded the PC recently.
Asus P67-EVO, i7 2600K, 8GB Corsair 1600MHz RAM (4 x 2GB), Vertex 3 240GB SSD, 2 x Hitachi 2TB HDD.

Added another D5 pump and using the two with an EK-D5 Dual top.

The water flow is a lot better now and the system is generally faster because of the new hardware.
Possible GPU & rad upgrade soon (funds permitting).









Photos before the upgrade.

Photos of the system now:


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Time to upgrade your specs, as well: overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## mav2000

Final pics. The system is now complete.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

can't really see anything. Take pics with window off.


----------



## Bradford1040

OK, I know this is again the same question as before, but after all you guys put out your suggestions it opened up more problems lol! I now have no idea on which case to get, they all have something that I like and the lian li ones are confusing (there are so many model numbers) the silverstone tj07 looks good, the danger den double wide 21, and the couple of thermaltakes that I am looking at! And of coarse another 800D build is possible but not shore if I want the same as so many others out there? SO thanks a lot lol I had only two choices before and now like 5 or 6 god! I would like it if someone knows at least which lian li to get (I want big full tower most seem to be 20~21H x 8.7~9.7W x 20~23D) I was also looking at the cube one can't remember the part number right now but all know it lol. I am sorry to make this question again but you guys did it with your good advise so now I am even more confused lol. I was happy to just build the lan rig but now thinking of getting a bigger main case and making the 922 the lan rig


----------



## B3RGY

mav2000 that looks really good!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

lian li p80 is an awesome chassis for watercooling if you don't mind some modding. I had one before I switched to mountain mods. With the T80B top panel and cutting some holes in the bottom I was able to fit 2x 360, a 240, and a 120. The case even has 10 pci slots so u can toss in 4 gpus if you ever want to.


----------



## nden

@elbeasto
@mav2000

those photos look great.


----------



## Bradford1040

never mind guys, I made my choice as amazon dropped the price on a siverstone case the tj10 which was kinda my first choice anyway because it was the nvidia edition and was 330usd but it is on sale and dropped over 90usd I think and I think and hope I made the right one!!! I never had case that cost over a 100usd even my HAF922 was only 89usd when I got it, I was kinda not easy in the buying of this case because I really was not shore on which way I was headed with it (was I going to redo my main system or build the lan in it) and to tell the truth still not lol but I bought the one I have now and go from there!

Now where do you get modded panels for silverstone lol parts and stuff or is it all just custom? God I hope you guys aren't getting pissed with my questions about this stupid case lol


----------



## Bradford1040

ok now I am completely confused as I just got that case and told a friend about it that there was only one left, he went to buy it and just 1 hour late than me the price shot back up has anyone else ever got a deal like that? I am posting the sale price and the regular price is 339.99 frozencpu sells it also at the same price, I got it for this posted price and free shipping so I get it Wednesday at the latest. So did I just get lucky or is this normal?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13208613*
> I need the three water-cooled GTX 480s (really need three GTX 580s) for Nvidia Surround (triple monitor gaming), though.


"I need my surround setup guys, I can't see my games without it!!!1!"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13208522*
> As you wish.


^This.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KrynnTech;13207185*
> No just trying to help people from wasting money... that piece itself cost as much as a pump.(not to mention mounting it must be a nightmare) Why not use my way if you want 2 pumps and double your flow while having a redundant pump as well?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KrynnTech;13210137*
> This is the first time i have seen this product... but i stand by my words.
> You gain absolutely NO flow rate increase with a series of pumps. It's basic Physics...
> You need to consider your potential output vs. your actual.
> Bragging rights aside, there is no point&#8230;
> Even with 3 pumps you would only see a potential of 33% gain if you did it my way&#8230; (Refer to diagram)


Just so you don't confuse yourself or others with the 'basic physics', your parallel setup will give higher flowrates, but lower the pressure of the loop. Higher head pressure from serial pump setups allows for better flowrates through restrictive blocks/loops which makes it advantageous for most setups. Personally I run a long loop with several blocks and rads, I run two D5's in series, but I space them out in the loop which allows me to have higher flowrate averages through all the blocks. My background is fluid mechanics so I like to mess with that sort of stuff, but for most it doesn't matter. There's no reason to rip people for redudancy and some blocks function better with higher pressure (more restrictive blocks need it) so try not to jump on people...







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13217572*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what in the world? what do you have in that base? a chiller? or a full phaser?


Pair of 360 rads if I remember correctly, it's all in his build log, with lots of pics


----------



## superhead91

If I were gonna use this tubing http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s809 , would these compression fittings work http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11105/ex-tub-699/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_BP-RCPF-CC6.html?tl=g30c409s1203, or should I get 1/2" ID? I know 1/2" are recommended for regular barbs, I'm just not sure if that applies to compression fittings.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13244382*
> If I were gonna use this tubing http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s809 , would these compression fittings work http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11105/ex-tub-699/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_BP-RCPF-CC6.html?tl=g30c409s1203, or should I get 1/2" ID? I know 1/2" are recommended for regular barbs, I'm just not sure if that applies to compression fittings.


yes those are the type you need to use for compression fittings, not the 1/2 ones


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Compression fittings work WONDERS for any water cooling build. When you tighten them, make sure to hold on to whatever they are attached to, give it a FIRM grip, and tighten SLOWLY.

It also helps to lubricate the end of the tubing that you're going to slip over the compression fitting neck, so have a small bowl of distilled water nearby.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13246370*
> Compression fittings work WONDERS for any water cooling build. When you tighten them, make sure to hold on to whatever they are attached to, give it a FIRM grip, and tighten SLOWLY.


They look so nice. I can't wait to get my loop set up.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Remember that the tubing and compression ID and OD need to match exactly, it's not like barbs where you can run 1/16" smaller for a tighter fit, the dimensions need to be the same.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13249105*
> Remember that the tubing and compression ID and OD need to match exactly, it's not like barbs where you can run 1/16" smaller for a tighter fit, the dimensions need to be the same.


This is what I was wondering. Thanks.


----------



## Indulgence




----------



## Triangle

Nice, clean and white.


----------



## superhead91

@indulgence
That looks awesome


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Oh, cool! It's the Favela level from MW2!


----------



## Indulgence

thanks guys!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence;13249221*


dam it took the idea right out of my mind there, now i gotta come up with something diffrent lol


----------



## Indulgence

^








sorry bout that. just pushing what this 922 can do in water cooling, before i move to a full tower case


----------



## Onions

just do black and white but in reverse XD


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence;13249644*
> ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry bout that. just pushing what this 922 can do in water cooling, before i move to a full tower case


I still love that case of yours, I have only done one WC system (well this and a h50) I am going to steal some ideas from you as my 922 is going to become the lan rig I think, I got a silverstone coming in wednesday (TJ10) hope to make it my main rig and the 922 the lan, I think that would be the best way? I don't know as of yet! I do love the way you mounted the pump and hid the PSU behind that box, what did you make it out of? I was thinking of using acrylic or aluminum but if you have a better choice please tell me


----------



## Indulgence

hey bradford, thanks for liking it.







that's acrylic on the psu/rad cover and was painted using flat black spray paint. now it looks like the aluminum or like the motherboard tray of the case. got no idea bout the tj10 but the haf 922 is a good case, enough to meet your expectations, atleast mine.


----------



## Triangle

I will have to try that.
Painted acrylic? huh? Nice.


----------



## Indulgence

yes sir, painted acrylic it is. and a flat black paint works well..! you should give it a try.


----------



## Triangle

I will see what it looks like in my Pinnacle 24 and put up some pics. Thank you sir for a great idea.


----------



## Indulgence

^

anytime


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RushMore1205

so i got my protype in the other day and im really happy with an outcome, what do u guys think about this rad cover
im going to have acrylic version and alumium, in every color, and the metal ones i can powdercoat what ever color someone desires


----------



## sprower

Mmmmmm Honeycomb. It looks great.

2x120 only? cost? Can you get it without the Rushmore stamp?


----------



## ssgwright

overkill lol I'm running a 480gtx rad up top with a coolgate 360 ultimate heat exchanger on the bottom, finally able to run 4.3 with decent temps

The only thing I'm waiting on is white tubing to replace the clear and yes that's a half inch fitting on top of the bottom rad to keep the divider from "drooping" until I can think of something better. Took a lot of improvising to get that 360 down there lol.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Can you all post temps along with your setups? I'm curious to see how well some of these setups can actually cool.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;13250778*
> so i got my protype in the other day and im really happy with an outcome, what do u guys think about this rad cover
> im going to have acrylic version and alumium, in every color, and the metal ones i can powdercoat what ever color someone desires


that looks really nice, but this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13251308*
> Can you get it without the Rushmore stamp?


I think that would be a deal breaker for me, I do not like logos and names all over the place in my mods.

perhaps instead of having the logo cut through the acrylic you could have it be etched on the surface instead? that way it would be there for you to get recognition, but people could choose to install it with the other side out to keep their mods looking clean.


----------



## Pis

My noob system











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pis*


My noob system












Uploaded with ImageShack.us


You know you can fit that 360 rad in the top of your phantom with a small amount of modding.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Pis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


You know you can fit that 360 rad in the top of your phantom with a small amount of modding.


Yup, I put my rad outside for temporarily, leak testing









Get a new white tube + new res + 200 mm fan, only then I can put my rad inside


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pis*


Yup, I put my rad outside for temporarily, leak testing









Get a new white tube + new res + 200 mm fan, only then I can put my rad inside










man I love the look of those phantom's but I always have stuff on top of the case so that wouldn't do so well with those lol but it would be nice to see some more shots with the inside as the star!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

that looks really nice, but this:

I think that would be a deal breaker for me, I do not like logos and names all over the place in my mods.

perhaps instead of having the logo cut through the acrylic you could have it be etched on the surface instead? that way it would be there for you to get recognition, but people could choose to install it with the other side out to keep their mods looking clean.



thats a great idea, or if they want instread of RUSHMORE it could be what ever NAME+MODS they want, that way its personolized


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


thats a great idea, or if they want instread of RUSHMORE it could be what ever NAME+MODS they want, that way its personolized


that would be even better if you have the ability to do each order custom.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


thats a great idea, or if they want instread of RUSHMORE it could be what ever NAME+MODS they want, that way its personolized


Any other patterns too? Honeycomb tends to have a lot of wind noise in my experience, probably not enough to bother most, but that's why I usually just run wire grills.


----------



## Bradford1040

ok which are the best 120mm x **? fans for water? and then which are the best of those IE delta/san ace/koolance. I at the moment do not have a fan controller been using the motherboard 4pin with a splitter for the 240 rad but as I plan to put 2 x 240's in the new case would like to order by Monday some new fans to join the new rad, I really don't care about noise it is all out about performance. I also plan on getting a fan controller but not just yet but still would like the best ones for the rad and once again which size is best 25mm~38mm? and brand


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


ok which are the best 120mm x **? fans for water? and then which are the best of those IE delta/san ace/koolance. I at the moment do not have a fan controller been using the motherboard 4pin with a splitter for the 240 rad but as I plan to put 2 x 240's in the new case would like to order by Monday some new fans to join the new rad, I really don't care about noise it is all out about performance. I also plan on getting a fan controller but not just yet but still would like the best ones for the rad and once again which size is best 25mm~38mm? and brand


Noise not counted, get some 3k RPM Scythe Utra Kazes or High RPM (4-5K) Gentle Typhoons

Counting noise, 1850 RPM Gentle Typhoons are your best bet. If you're going high speed, high noise, you should get some high FPI rads that will really show the benefits of the higher airflow.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13255691*
> Noise not counted, get some 3k RPM Scythe Utra Kazes or High RPM (4-5K) Gentle Typhoons
> 
> Counting noise, 1850 RPM Gentle Typhoons are your best bet. If you're going high speed, high noise, you should get some high FPI rads that will really show the benefits of the higher airflow.


so those delta fans that do like 250cfm are not as good? well I shouldn't say not as good I mean they are not worth the price?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

they are just SUPER loud. they cool like champs, but you will rip your ears out after a week or so.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13256984*
> they are just SUPER loud. they cool like champs, but you will rip your ears out after a week or so.


and can they be hooked in to a fan controller or do they have to be molexed (delta's)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13257002*
> and can they be hooked in to a fan controller or do they have to be molexed (delta's)


they draw a lot of power, some fan controllers can handle them, but frequently they will stall out before they are slow enough to be quiet.

the PWM ones can be made quiet, but you would get better airflow at those noise levels from fans that are meant to be run at that speed/noise level


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13255414*
> Any other patterns too? Honeycomb tends to have a lot of wind noise in my experience, probably not enough to bother most, but that's why I usually just run wire grills.


i have just tested the grill, and it had added absolutly zero noise compared to wired mesh thing, here some pictures of my latest build.


----------



## Kinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13257255*
> they draw a lot of power, some fan controllers can handle them, but frequently they will stall out before they are slow enough to be quiet.
> 
> the PWM ones can be made quiet, but you would get better airflow at those noise levels from fans that are meant to be run at that speed/noise level


At lower rpms they also develop a very nasty tic sound which is why its never recommended to undervolt them.

Truth be told, if you are getting those fans you shouldn't have to worry about undervolting them as they're made to go fast, but just thought I'd give a heads up.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey rushmore, how is the quality of that case?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13262070*
> updated
> 
> hey rushmore, how is the quality of that case?


hey how you like the high today the weather said it was going to be 79 lol as it hit 91


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13262084*
> hey how you like the high today the weather said it was going to be 79 lol as it hit 91


I had a paper I had to write today and never actually made it outside...


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13262098*
> I had a paper I had to write today and never actually made it outside...


I am still on proformancepc's web site lol trying to figure out my order, I am also trying to figure out if the siverstone tj10 will fit two 240's inside


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13262070*
> updated
> 
> hey rushmore, how is the quality of that case?


its a very nice case, im more of a full tower kind of guy, but for mid tower i wil have to say its one of the best cases ive worked with

fanctroller built in which is really nice, just the overall layout is cool, one thing is when u mount the radiator is weird, it can only be mounted in the middle of the two fans, so its kind of hanging by the middle fan screwes, and you can only use RS style rads, no RX, due to even with the RS the fans come dangeruoulsy close to hitting the ram slots, other then that, quality is superb


----------



## bundymania

Here it is


















This radgril "protoype" was in the package aswell, maybe it´s available in the future:










...like the design ?










rubber stands for the radiator:



















and more pics from the rad:





































as you can see, the Thermalfins Logo is on 1 side only:


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13263591*
> Here it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This radgril "protoype" was in the package aswell, maybe it´s available in the future:
> 
> ...like the design ?
> 
> rubber stands for the radiator:
> 
> and more pics from the rad:
> 
> as you can see, the Thermalfins Logo is on 1 side only:

















So how does it perform?


----------



## Stevedawg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;13263620*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So how does it perform?


^^^this. It might look beautiful but for the price it best blow the rest out of the water. that being said it does look good


----------



## sprower

I like the idea of the threaded screw inserts to save the paint job. They work well?

As to the grill.... It's nice. I like the design but It's just not my style. I don't think it would look good vertically as the design looks like it's meant to be viewed horizontally.


----------



## B3RGY

Hey i was wondering, would a 360 rad fit in the top of a MM Monticle 18? I'm pretty sure a 240 fits in the front... and how does this loop sound?
-EK supreme LT CPU block
-XSPC RS240 radiator
-EK-DCP 2.2 12v pump
-EK-resevoir DCP 2.2
-blue tubing
-clamps
-barbs
-GPU block (???)
depending on the case, maybe a RS360 too


----------



## Mongol

Mother of....WANT!
Like 3...for the TH10 I'm gonna buy really really soon.









Looks a good inch thicker than an RX360.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I'll take 3 of them







More than enough room thankfully. Hopefully they perform better than everything else on the market otherwise they're just for the bling


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13263591*
> Here it is


see bundy? this is why we hate you


----------



## Canis-X

Where are they being sold? Any reviews of them out yet?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

they're not out yet. The company's site isn't even fully functional


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Will Mr. Bundy be doing any testing on that rad?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13263591*
> Here it is


I'm sorry, who makes this rad? It looks great and again, I envy thee


----------



## RushMore1205

thats a really pretty radiator, cant wait to see some benches, is this a new company, i have never heard of them before?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13263591*
> Here it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -img snip-


Those are truly beautiful and I read up on them and I love the concept, cant wait till you provide some stats on them.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quite massive radiator though....I wonder if there's a case that could hold it









Maybe a MM or Case Labs case.


----------



## Triangle

So pretty...


----------



## Darkcyde

My first WC loop.


----------



## Triangle

Very nice, but I have never been a fan of LED's or any other light show things...








Just my opinion about that, but other than that it seems nice.
Good job..!!


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Which orange cathode lights are those?


----------



## Bradford1040

you don't work for corsair do you?







only kidding looks great

PS is that thing bigger than the 800d?


----------



## Darkcyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13274052*
> Which orange cathode lights are those?


They're actually red. The camera just makes them look orange.

These are the CCFLs I have
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13274072*
> you don't work for corsair do you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only kidding looks great
> 
> PS is that thing bigger than the 800d?


The 600T is a mid tower, albeit a very large one.


----------



## AlanScott

Updated my rig, new 240 rad below, 480 rad up top


----------



## koven

^ a+


----------



## Bradford1040

geez you guys make me look like I own crap lol, I need to set it up a notch! I am building one as of today (later not 3am lol) but that was going to be my main system switched to it (still mite) but after looking at all the nice builds and I have to say they are all beautiful!!!!!!! I am thinking of getting a Case Lab, or Mountain Mod, or a Danger den double wide and building that up so I don't feel so small (being 6'4" not used to that)

P.S. I got a case question for you Corsair guys I got one answer on the 600 but I did not even know they made a 700 and it does look the same size as the 800 even in specs, so whats the big improvement over the 800?

And how and the hell do I find these cases? when I did a search when I just bought the last case that was not mainstream ether but I found it, but how does one see every case available is there a site that carries them all or do you guys just go to the manufactures site and look at each one? Cause searching I guess really does not find squat!!!! lmao


----------



## Aidan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13275160*
> geez you guys make me look like I own crap lol, I need to set it up a notch! I am building one as of today (later not 3am lol) but that was going to be my main system switched to it (still mite) but after looking at all the nice builds and I have to say they are all beautiful!!!!!!! I am thinking of getting a Case Lab, or Mountain Mod, or a Danger den double wide and building that up so I don't feel so small (being 6'4" not used to that)
> 
> P.S. I got a case question for you Corsair guys I got one answer on the 600 but I did not even know they made a 700 and it does look the same size as the 800 even in specs, so whats the big improvement over the 800?
> 
> And how and the hell do I find these cases? when I did a search when I just bought the last case that was not mainstream ether but I found it, but how does one see every case available is there a site that carries them all or do you guys just go to the manufactures site and look at each one? Cause searching I guess really does not find squat!!!! lmao


700d is an 800d without the hot swap bays and window panel. I'd get it if you don't need hotswap coz it looks cleaner inside without the big box thing covering the hot swappiness and you can cut your own window panel. Why did corsair make the window in the 800d go below the midplate??

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlanScott;13274617*
> Updated my rig, new 240 rad below, 480 rad up top


You gotta warn me before you post pr0n like that...







.... My unpreparedness led to a very messy situation.


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlanScott;13274617*
> Updated my rig, new 240 rad below, 480 rad up top

















:helpingha


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## sprower

@AlanScott Very nice. Are those the stock feet for the 700d?


----------



## AlanScott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13278085*
> @AlanScott Very nice. Are those the stock feet for the 700d?


Thanks! Yes they are the stock feet for the case.


----------



## 12Cores

Are there any good cheap universal water blocks for the ATI 57XX series?

Thanks in advance


----------



## just_nuke_em

The postman just brought me new stuff


----------



## sprower

^^Wait... what?! Is that an EK cozy?









Want!


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em;13279427*
> The postman just brought me new stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> [IMG alt="eek.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/eek.gif
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want see those running


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AlanScott*


Updated my rig, new 240 rad below, 480 rad up top











Hmmm, just to confirm, that is a serial/series bridge? or a parallel? If its the later, its configuration is a big no-no


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B3RGY*


Hey i was wondering, would a 360 rad fit in the top of a MM Monticle 18? I'm pretty sure a 240 fits in the front... and how does this loop sound?
-EK supreme LT CPU block
-XSPC RS240 radiator
-EK-DCP 2.2 12v pump
-EK-resevoir DCP 2.2
-blue tubing
-clamps
-barbs
-GPU block (???)
depending on the case, maybe a RS360 too


bump
help please lol


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B3RGY*


bump
help please lol


yes, it'll fit. Doing research, reading the product description, and measuring the components works helps figure things out.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13280944*
> yes, it'll fit. Doing research, reading the product description, and measuring the components works helps figure things out.


I thought it would fit, just wanted to see if some one had one that put a 360 rad in there, just checking


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B3RGY*


bump
help please lol


Change out the block with the HF model.


----------



## BWG

Well, I started watching this thread and I am shocked at some of these great watercooling photo's. Many of you have done such a wonderful job. Yeah, I am the guy that had all the excess tubing and mounted my RAD on top of my case. Today, I changed that, and mounted it externally, but on the front, right, hard drive bay. I will post pics as soon as my phone finishes updating. My Samsung Focus finally has cut/paste!

I currently have a pull on the RAD. I had push/pull before. I can still do push/pull and likely will. I just wanted to see how much impact it had on my temps, so I did a pull first.

Ok, phone pics always suck but here is one:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13268330*
> Hey i was wondering, would a 360 rad fit in the top of a MM Monticle 18? I'm pretty sure a 240 fits in the front... and how does this loop sound?
> -EK supreme LT CPU block
> -XSPC RS240 radiator
> -EK-DCP 2.2 12v pump
> -EK-resevoir DCP 2.2
> -blue tubing
> -clamps
> -barbs
> -GPU block (???)
> depending on the case, maybe a RS360 too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13281075*
> Change out the block with the HF model.


This.
-or-
If you can't spring for the the HF, get the RASA cpu block, its around the same price as the LT and performs a lot better.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13281768*
> This.
> -or-
> If you can't spring for the the HF, get the RASA cpu block, its around the same price as the LT and performs a lot better.


Black or Acetal version? and i believe the HF is cheaper than the RASA block at PPC's
and would this fit a 5850? - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_587&products_id=26732
A lot of 5870 full-cover blocks fit 5850's too


----------



## Dissentience

Dang BWG, thats a heck of a chip you got there! Unlocked and at 4.4GHz?


----------



## BWG

Yep! 7hr blend @ the sig specs and while all else was clocked at sig specs except the video card, I am updating it now cause I got it to 1000MHz core clock!


----------



## Dissentience

You got some good hardware luck! I have a voltage-hungry Phenom II 965 and my GPU doesn't like memory speeds over stock. I hope I got a good 2600k, I haven't got to overclocking it quite yet...


----------



## BWG

I hit 5.0GHz on 1.525v on my 2600k, but I had a Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B and it ran too hot to go 24/7; about 93C on an hour Prime95 Blend! I wish I had watercooling when I had it. I sold it for $20 more than what I paid.

Adding the RAD to the side and taking push fans out made temps go up 2C. I will try push/pull later this week.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13282215*
> Black or Acetal version? and i believe the HF is cheaper than the RASA block at PPC's
> and would this fit a 5850? - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_587&products_id=26732
> A lot of 5870 full-cover blocks fit 5850's too


Acetal is the black/pom ones. Typically its plexi/acrylic/perspex (clear one) or acetal/pom (black one). Its all about the looks. Acetal tends to be a bit more expensive.

XSPC Rasa ult. cpu block:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_497&products_id=30264

As far as the xspc 5870 block, if your 5850 is reference, it could fit but I can't be 100% sure of that. Email XSPC


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13279498*
> ^^Wait... what?! Is that an EK cozy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Want!


Yep! Got the stuff from FrozenCPU, didn't buy it so I guess it's promotional stuff. Looks kinda cool.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13281768*
> This.
> -or-
> If you can't spring for the the HF, get the RASA cpu block, its around the same price as the LT and performs a lot better.


I second the notion of the rasa block, it is a really good block, and it is the second best flowing block on the market also.
I have it on my 955 and it keeps my temps below 45c even with ambient temps up to 80f.


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Hey all. I have a question, I have the DFI X58 mobo, that i have had for a bit, that I got from next to nothing from someone I know. Here is the motherboard link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136063
Yes, it is the X58 eyesore edition. I am putting it onto water and got a nice XSPC full cover block, among alot of other stuffs for it.
Now to my question, the thermal pads for the VReg, does anyone know if they are .5mm, 1.0mm or 1.5mm? I know where I can get 1.0, but I dont know if it is the right thickness. Does anyone here know what size it is, and if it is NOT 1.0, got any links for new thermal pad material?

THANKS ALL!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc;13283162*
> Hey all. I have a question, I have the DFI X58 mobo, that i have had for a bit, that I got from next to nothing from someone I know. Here is the motherboard link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136063
> Yes, it is the X58 eyesore edition. I am putting it onto water and got a nice XSPC full cover block, among alot of other stuffs for it.
> Now to my question, the thermal pads for the VReg, does anyone know if they are .5mm, 1.0mm or 1.5mm? I know where I can get 1.0, but I dont know if it is the right thickness. Does anyone here know what size it is, and if it is NOT 1.0, got any links for new thermal pad material?
> 
> THANKS ALL!


Email XSPC, they are pretty quick at responding. I can't say for sure as I've seen 05, 1.0, 1.5 mm pads used in many block applications by different manufacturers. good luck









edit: http://www.xs-pc.com/contactus/


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc;13283162*
> Hey all. I have a question, I have the DFI X58 mobo, that i have had for a bit, that I got from next to nothing from someone I know. Here is the motherboard link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136063
> Yes, it is the X58 eyesore edition. I am putting it onto water and got a nice XSPC full cover block, among alot of other stuffs for it.
> Now to my question, the thermal pads for the VReg, does anyone know if they are .5mm, 1.0mm or 1.5mm? I know where I can get 1.0, but I dont know if it is the right thickness. Does anyone here know what size it is, and if it is NOT 1.0, got any links for new thermal pad material?
> 
> THANKS ALL!


I'm not sure about the size you need but you can order it from quite a few places. I think I ordered mine from EK when I got my blocks. http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/accessories/thermal-compounds/thermal-pads/thermal-pad-1mm-60x50x1mm.html They're out of 1.5mm atm.


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Thanks guys! I'll contact them ASAP.

**EDIT**
email sent, lets see what they say and how long. I will post the answer here incase anyone else is curious as well.

The sooner I can get the last of my stuff the sooner I can get this going. I will make an addition in a couple months, but 4+ ghz i7, 2x EVGA 580 FTWs and my old 8800 Ultra water card for PhysX, on SSD RAID0.... so friggin anxious!


----------



## mwlhrh

updated build...see sig


----------



## mastical

^ Impressive


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwlhrh;13284328*
> updated build...see sig
> 
> -snip-


Awesome!!! Don't forget to join the Mountain Mods Club!


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc;13283162*
> Yes, it is the X58 *eyesore* edition.
> THANKS ALL!


Ha ha!

Also nice MM build above.


----------



## Marauder_IIc

WOW, XSPC got back to me already! I will have to doublecheck the package, the thermal pads were supposed to be there already, but I dont recall seeing them.

And Forsaken, if you have seen it in person, then you know the pic doesn't do it justice lol, Eyesore is VERY accurate.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc;13286202*
> WOW, XSPC got back to me already! I will have to doublecheck the package, the thermal pads were supposed to be there already, but I dont recall seeing them.
> 
> And Forsaken, if you have seen it in person, then you know the pic doesn't do it justice lol, Eyesore is VERY accurate.


Excellent







, btw, what size? just curious


----------



## Marauder_IIc

LOL, they didnt say, they said they should be included in the package with the waterblock.... so dont know. Been tied up doing a few other things, so havent gone back and looked yet.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwlhrh;13284328*
> updated build...see sig
> 
> *pics*


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc;13286202*
> And Forsaken, if you have seen it in person, then you know the pic doesn't do it justice lol, Eyesore is VERY accurate.


I have a DFI Lanparty x48, the one with the tall NB heatsink/tower, and it is just as retina detaching garish. Of course I am currently running a GB legoland MB so I may have a taste for vomit.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## derickwm

It still surprises me by how much shiny computer parts can get my pants tight.


----------



## Bradford1040

so I don't waste money upgrading the D5 pump and like the bitspower head but is there any other that has in/out on the same side for cheaper? and is there a better one to buy than and a worse one (like stay away from this one type of thing)


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13289617*


This vs EK. That's for sure.

Edit: This is thermalfins right?? I'm assuming because of the X. Is this unreleased or not?


----------



## BWG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm;13289627*
> It still surprises me by how much shiny computer parts can get my pants tight.


Yikes! My girlfriend thinks this happens to me, but it truly does not. lol


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;13289950*
> This vs EK. That's for sure.
> 
> Edit: This is thermalfins right?? I'm assuming because of the X. Is this unreleased or not?


Its a Heatkiller, not Thermalfins.


----------



## bundymania

Yep, it´s from watercool and not released yet, there is just this 1 block









Blingtime again:




























@TFC-Mario: versucht doch mal sowas herzustellen...Produkte die man braucht und die gekauft werden....oder such dir ne komplett andere Branche aus, vielleicht Kinderspielzeug !?


----------



## Triangle

So pretty!


----------



## Lutro0

Very slick, I enjoy the mirror finish.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Ya I have seen these Danger Den blocks in person and "they are amazing" is putting it lightly.


----------



## Mongol

Great job on that rebuild alan...I'm considering redoing my loop but may wait until I grab a TH10.

And I really cant wait too see a review on those massive rads bundy...it will make my TH10 purchase all the faster.


----------



## Bradford1040

Once Again Koolance or Bitspower D5 upgrade? and will the koolance do in/out on same side?


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13294032*
> Once Again Koolance or Bitspower D5 upgrade? and will the koolance do in/out on same side?


Yeah you can use both on the same side on the Koolance top. Though I'm not sure what the difference in performance is. I'd guess it's marginal.


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13288930*
> I have a DFI Lanparty x48, the one with the tall NB heatsink/tower, and it is just as retina detaching garish. Of course I am currently running a GB legoland MB so I may have a taste for vomit.


Legoland MB, oh God, im almost afraid to ask. I may regret this, but link...
If its this bad, then maybe you do have a taste for vomit.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13297330*
> Yeah you can use both on the same side on the Koolance top. Though I'm not sure what the difference in performance is. I'd guess it's marginal.


well I was looking and it seems that the koolance upgrade comes with bling were you need to bu the back cover for the bitspower just wanted to know if I was going to order the koolance that I would get the same performance as it is allot cheaper than the bitspower, if there is some reason the koolance is so much cheaper?


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13297681*
> well I was looking and it seems that the koolance upgrade comes with bling were you need to bu the back cover for the bitspower just wanted to know if I was going to order the koolance that I would get the same performance as it is allot cheaper than the bitspower, if there is some reason the koolance is so much cheaper?


I honestly don't think there is any difference. These tops are more about giving you different options than a performance increase. Bitspower is an expensive brand all around. I can't comment on the quality of the Koolance top but I do have the V2 Bitspower top and it is damn nice.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13290744*
> Yep, it´s from watercool and not released yet, there is just this 1 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blingtime again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of this.... But isit really worth paying the cash for it does it perorme any diffrent to other blocks? Coz at the end of the day its all about performance right?


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;13298038*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13290744*
> Yep, it´s from watercool and not released yet, there is just this 1 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blingtime again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of this.... But isit really worth paying the cash for it does it perorme any diffrent to other blocks? Coz at the end of the day its all about performance right?
Click to expand...

Obviously performance wins, however, if you're showing off your rig (which a lot of us here do), bling is an important factor as well.

The thing about GPU water blocks is that you will only see the sides, as the "bling" area as you see in the above picture will be facing upside down, and possibly buried under other PCI slot components such as a sound card, NIC, raid card, other GPUs, etc.

It is because of only being able to see the sides of the GPU water block that I have went with the Koolance VID N480 water blocks for my GTX 480s. They have this nice LED light that lights up the block:









(Not my rig, but, you get the picture.)


----------



## toddvj

Update to mine, not much different from the last one, but a couple new fittings and straightened some of the tubing to some degree.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc;13297672*
> Legoland MB, oh God, im almost afraid to ask. I may regret this, but link...
> If its this bad, then maybe you do have a taste for vomit.


It the GB MB in my sig. Every damn set of connectors is a different color damn near. One of the best MBs for 775 ever though.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13300186*
> It the GB MB in my sig. Every damn set of connectors is a different color damn near. One of the best MBs for 775 ever though.


That thing is hideous. It even comes with two different color sets for the ram slots. If yellow and orange aren't ugly enough you can get special edition green and pink lol


----------



## 12Cores

Crossfired


----------



## BWG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores;13308855*
> I know I need a new Power Supply


It is not like these other folks and their really fancy setups, but I bet it works good for your CPU.

I noticed your exhaust fan in the back appeared to be blowing in and it looked like your RAD fans might be doing the same. I would think that you would get better performance if you had them blowing out. Is there holes in the top of the case? Are you using zip ties to hold the RAD to the top? Is there holes in the top to be able to make those fans blow out?

What are your load temps?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## BWG

Kevin is always all over this thread!









EDIT: Kevin, did the 120 RAD in your loop lower your temps much?


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13309075*
> It is not like these other folks and their really fancy setups, but I bet it works good for your CPU.
> 
> I noticed your exhaust fan in the back appeared to be blowing in and it looked like your RAD fans might be doing the same. I would think that you would get better performance if you had them blowing out. Is there holes in the top of the case? Are you using zip ties to hold the RAD to the top? Is there holes in the top to be able to make those fans blow out?
> 
> What are your load temps?


All fans are pushing air outside of the case(4 120mm fans on the rad push pull) idles at room temp and max load temp 52C. Performance has been great so far, really happy with the setup.


----------



## superhead91

Guess what came in the mail today?

Ok so it's not as cool as bundy's stuff but it's my first step on the road to watercooling, so I was pretty excited. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic. Now I just gotta figure out how to crimp on a molex connector...


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13298671*
> Obviously performance wins, however, if you're showing off your rig (which a lot of us here do), bling is an important factor as well.
> 
> The thing about GPU water blocks is that you will only see the sides, as the "bling" area as you see in the above picture will be facing upside down, and possibly buried under other PCI slot components such as a sound card, NIC, raid card, other GPUs, etc.
> 
> It is because of only being able to see the sides of the GPU water block that I have went with the Koolance VID N480 water blocks for my GTX 480s. They have this nice LED light that lights up the block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Not my rig, but, you get the picture.)


is that Trubyd44's? he should join OCN


----------



## BWG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores;13309285*
> All fans are pushing air outside of the case(4 120mm fans on the rad push pull) idles at room temp and max load temp 52C. Performance has been great so far, really happy with the setup.


I can see clearly now! Thanks for posting those pics. Not bad at all.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13309193*
> Kevin is always all over this thread!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Kevin, did the 120 RAD in your loop lower your temps much?


I really don't know, I added it at the same time I added the two 240mm rads and my GPU blocks, so I do not really have a clear before/after comparison.


----------



## thrasherht

I just got down cleaning out my loop after close to 6 months of use. The block was as clean as could be and was very shiny still.
My water was very clear and looked like new.

My temps did drop about 1c, but that could have been ambient temps, so idk.
I am just happy to know my loop is nice and clean.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13309531*
> is that Trubyd44's? he should join OCN


Yep, that's his (or, a customer's now). One of the best build's that I've seen.


----------



## Bradford1040

OH MY LORD!!!! did anyone see the price tag on the new silverstone? (SilverStone Temjin TJ11) holly poop I was really looking forward to getting that case till I just seen the price and OMG are they kidding?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13309498*
> Guess what came in the mail today?
> 
> Ok so it's not as cool as bundy's stuff but it's my first step on the road to watercooling, so I was pretty excited. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic. Now I just gotta figure out how to crimp on a molex connector...


really easy, just find a crimping tool and pins. strip about ~ 1/16" off the wire, insert pin and crimp. check out -ocgeek's build, he has a few pics of crimping on pins to wires.

Btw, get a nice aftermarket top for your DDC to give you the option to run any g1/4 fittings and unleash a bit more power


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13316390*
> really easy, just find a crimping tool and pins. strip about ~ 1/16" off the wire, insert pin and crimp. check out -ocgeek's build, he has a few pics of crimping on pins to wires.
> 
> Btw, get a nice aftermarket top for your DDC to give you the option to run any g1/4 fittings and unleash a bit more power


Yeah, I got some molex pins from radioshack and got them on there and the pump works. I plan on buying an XSPC top for it too. Probably this one. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9047/ex-pmp-81/XSPC_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-350355_POM_Replacement_Top.html?tl=g30c107s156#blank


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I love how that sr-2 4 way sli build has no single sleeved cables... seems like he gave up at the last minute and didn't take time with the finer details.


----------



## adamwzl

hah, i have yet sleeved my psu. thinking of just getting extensions. Too lazy and i just want to play games. Maybe someday.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13318278*
> I love how that sr-2 4 way sli build has no single sleeved cables... seems like he gave up at the last minute and didn't take time with the finer details.


looks like the 24pin is single sleeved, but I don't think that rig is meant to be super pretty, it is just a powerhouse.


----------



## adamwzl

I call it hoodrich


----------



## badatgames18

Here is Mine....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mxthunder

a pic


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Few changes









See build log for more pix and details


----------



## PeL4

I'm already in the list, but I updated my loop.

Changed to blue tubing, added the cathodes. Added the EK FC GTX580 waterblock


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *12Cores*


I know I need a new Power Supply











Hey, if it works... just make it pretty for now. Disassemble it and paint the covers a bit. Maybe black... with a blue line to match the tubing or something.


----------



## OverSightX

Moved the 6970 up a slot and added a Ref 6950.

Does anyone know if theres a ref 6950 block that is nickel/acetal that would mach the one on my non-ref 6970:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...ign_Cards.html

This is how it looks now:


----------



## BWG

I just stuck my 2 push fans back on my RAD and my temps went down 8C! I did not realize how much of an impact that made.


----------



## Marauder_IIc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13300186*
> It the GB MB in my sig. Every damn set of connectors is a different color damn near. One of the best MBs for 775 ever though.


Definitly an eyesore, but why Legoland board?


----------



## Tazi




----------



## sprower

Does the space between the connector and the fittings look acceptable to you guys? It feels like it's tight on both pair of o-rings inside the fittings. I'm just a little sketchy about it and wanted to see what you all thought.


----------



## kazukun

GTX590 QuadSLI water cooled

【CPU】Intel i7-980X
【M/B】eVGA X58 Classified3　E770
【Mem】CMG6GX3M3A2000C8 2GB*6
【SSD】Intel x25M 80GB*2 RAID0
【HDD】HDS721010CLA332 1GB*2 RAID0
【VGA】Zotac GTX590 Qad-SLI [VGABIOS] EVGA Classified Hydro Copper
【BD】LG GGC-H20N
【Sound】X-Fi Titanium Professional Audio
【Case】Abee450ST
【Power supply】abee AS-1200B-SR
【Power supply】Stronger SPSN-070P

KOOLANCE　PMP-450S（D-5)*2

CPU： EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel
VRM.IOH.ICH： EK-FB EVGA X58 CLASSIFIED
MEM：MCH4250 RAM COOLER 6 Corsair Edition
GPU：EK-FC590 GTX - Nickel

MagiCool XTREME NOVA 1080 ( 9 X 120mm) Radiator
MagiCool XTREME ( 4 X 120mm) Radiator

KOOLANCE　RP-452X2









youtube Video
[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1OmuNv-9gw&feature=player_embedded]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1OmuNv-9gw&feature=player_embedded"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1OmuNv-9gw&feature=player_embedded[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13327757*
> Does the space between the connector and the fittings look acceptable to you guys? It feels like it's tight on both pair of o-rings inside the fittings. I'm just a little sketchy about it and wanted to see what you all thought.


looks good


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13327777*
> looks good


Thanks!


----------



## Pis

Finally can get the rad inside..

Very difficult for me to remove the pump top, so no mod top, I need a vice


----------



## Bradford1040

hey guys I got a chance to get a lian li pc-a70b for 105usd plus shipping, now I know this case is the older version but was wondering if they are still making parts lie the rad top and stuff for it? plus is it a good buy or should I wait for a cube or newer one? My goal is to get a brushed look full tower alum. case that will hold anything I put in it, this a70b is about the same size as the 800d only like.5 shorter on L/H.

also I am seeing a lot of push/pull on 240 rads is it a big diff or very minor? I am just using push 2300rpm CM Excalibur's


----------



## CrimsonMango

push/pull radiator fan configurations will increase performance with low-med speed fans - anything past 60-70cfm fans, you won't see much improvement with push/pull fans vs fans only on one side


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


push/pull radiator fan configurations will increase performance with low-med speed fans - anything past 60-70cfm fans, you won't see much improvement with push/pull fans vs fans only on one side


any opinions on the case?


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


any opinions on the case?



no matter what the cost, you can really never go wrong with Lian Li cases. I've been using LL's for years - plenty of room for water cooling, rads, etc., good looking, and sturdy as hell

so for $105 - go for it!

If you need help with modding the top for a radiator or anything else, let me know - I'll give you a hand with it

I actually just dug up an old PC-75B and am in the process of modding it to accept my Intel Skulltrail build and watercooling - check it out here:

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...ed-e1-0-a.html


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango;13330749*
> no matter what the cost, you can really never go wrong with Lian Li cases. I've been using LL's for years - plenty of room for water cooling, rads, etc., good looking, and sturdy as hell
> 
> so for $105 - go for it!
> 
> If you need help with modding the top for a radiator or anything else, let me know - I'll give you a hand with it
> 
> I actually just dug up an old PC-75B and am in the process of modding it to accept my Intel Skulltrail build and watercooling - check it out here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1003039-three-mile-island-revisited-e1-0-a.html


how would that work or do you need to PM me on that? (modding help)
and I was not shore on that model only because of the way the 3.5 bays are but as you say I can always mod it


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


how would that work or do you need to PM me on that? (modding help)
and I was not shore on that model only because of the way the 3.5 bays are but as you say I can always mod it



you wouldn't be doing anything with the 3.5" bays:

place the PSU at the bottom of the case, and then mod the top to accept a 120.3 or 120.4 radiator

it's as simple as that

you need some examples, bust down a google image search - here's a thread I just pulled up on XS that shows the exact radiator/psu layout in that same case that I'm talking about

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=222827


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


you wouldn't be doing anything with the 3.5" bays:

place the PSU at the bottom of the case, and then mod the top to accept a 120.3 or 120.4 radiator

it's as simple as that

you need some examples, bust down a google image search - here's a thread I just pulled up on XS that shows the exact radiator/psu layout in that same case that I'm talking about

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=222827


sorry left out that I wanted to (if I get the pc-a70b) put a 120x3 up top and a 120x2 in front, I know how to cut holes (just keep shooting it with the 40cal in till it is the right size lol) I was not shore how to mod the front one and you said that you mite be able to help mod, as I have never done the front mod before, worried that taking out the hard drive rack will cause the case to get flimsy


----------



## CrimsonMango

oh no no no - if you remove a HDD rack from a Lian Li case, it will not weaken the structure at all

unlike a number of other cases, the hard drive racks in LL's have no load bearing properties - the aluminum is thick enough and the construction strong enough that you will have no problems

hell, I've removed load bearing/support pillars from LL cases in the past and it was still solid as a rock. LL ain't got **** on Chevy


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


oh no no no - if you remove a HDD rack from a Lian Li case, it will not weaken the structure at all

unlike a number of other cases, the hard drive racks in LL's have no load bearing properties - the aluminum is thick enough and the construction strong enough that you will have no problems

hell, I've removed load bearing/support pillars from LL cases in the past and it was still solid as a rock. LL ain't got **** on Chevy


and the pc-A70b what the hell does the B stand for and while you are schoolin me the A lol what the hell just explain it all lol, sorry just been on the fence about case choices, I got a TJ-10 silverstone and thinking of using it for one of my other builds, it is a great case and wanted to buy the TJ-11 but as the price of it was 699usd said hell no!!! so want the same look and want big (space is not a problem) so I can fit most everything inside and look as good as some in this thread


----------



## CrimsonMango

PC-A70 A = silver

PC-A70 B = black

same goes for all LL models


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


PC-A70 A = silver

PC-A70 B = black

same goes for all LL models


then F stands for what? I was looking on ebay and there is a few LL models but not any cube ones which is what I really want, but saw the pc-a70b and a 7077b and a a71f I think now I know the B = black but the F? and there is also a 800d for 185usd and I see others using it a lot but like the LL for the look and it seems to be the same size LL and 800d, the LL is very little smaller than the 800. I am so sorry guys and gals to ask for your help on this but I am really confused on which to get!!! they all bring something to the table and don't want to keep buying cases want the right one once! I really hope you people can forgive me for bugging you on this but as the RLF know nothing about computers but to turn them on I have no one else to ask


----------



## CrimsonMango

non F = standard PCI slots/psu install










F = has the easy PCI/psu install things










I'd take the non-F version any day - less useless crap in it... that easy mount is a gimmick as far as I'm concerned - we'll keep the watered-down newbie case options reserved for Thermaltake


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


non F = standard PCI slots/drive/psu install










F = has the easy PCI/psu install things











thank you very much, now should I get that pc-a70b with window for 105usd plus shipping or the 800d for 185usd plus shipping or wait till I can get a cube or MM case? mind you I don't mind the modding part as I am looking to make something worthy of posting (after my last post felt out classed on here lol) or is there something new coming out?? besides my TJ-11 let down lol


----------



## CrimsonMango

dude get the Lian Li case. I've used MM and LL for years, and MM's build quality has gone down the toilet with that flimsy ass ultra modular design

I paid $1500 for a custom powdercoated Ext. U2-UFO w/ custom panels last year and I gave up on the build. Mobo tray wiggles, HDD's are mounted to fans, PCI cards don't fit correctly... hell the custom PSU placement was cut inside out so the PSU hung on the outside of the case (REALLY fkn stupid! - I had to take a dremel to cut out the PSU mount into a square, then bolt a Lian Li universal PSU bracket to it in order to even get the PSU to fit... fkn sad.)

don't get me wrong, no one can compete with Mountain Mods when you're looking for shear size and insanity, but the build quality absolutely blows now. I've officially given up with Ben Rising and Mountain Mods - I'm sticking to Lian Li from here on forth.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


dude get the Lian Li case. I've used MM and LL for years, and MM's build quality has gone down the toilet with that flimsy ass ultra modular design

I paid $1500 for a custom powdercoated Ext. U2-UFO w/ custom panels last year and I gave up on the build. Mobo tray wiggles, HDD's are mounted to fans, PCI cards don't fit correctly...

don't get me wrong, no one can compete with Mountain Mods when you're looking for shear size and insanity, but the build quality absolutely blows now. I've officially given up with Ben Rising and Mountain Mods - I'm sticking to Lian Li from here on forth.


once again thank you that really cuts down on the problem!! I like the look of MM but if the economy is hitting them as hard as others I know why they have falling off on quality, I am going to get the LL case just have to figure out which one of those now mite just get the one on ebay and call it a day. I really am sorry if I a annoying you and others on this but as I explained there is no one else for me to ask! I just wish I had more money myself so I could just shop and get what I want and not have to worry about the prices! also is there any one on here selling a 240 rad? I haven't looked on the forum yet but figured I would ask if some one in here has a link to one, and other parts fittings and such as well. (hopping that is ok to ask Forum rules)


----------



## CrimsonMango

oh hell no, you're not annoying me

we all started somewhere man - the only way you can keep what you've got is by giving back and sharing your knowledge

shoot me a PM if you need any assistance with the build, I've got no problem helping you out or answering some questions

-JR


----------



## Triangle

Where do you think I should mount my PSU in a Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24? I can't mount it where it is supposed to be because my rad is in the way...
I will try to get pics up.

I think I know where I want to put it, but wanted some more input. maybe I will find a better place.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Warfox101

Hi fellas, here is my rig enjoy.


----------



## lees800

My latest build..about 50-60% done


----------



## sprower

^^Nice! What kind of coolant? Stuff looks thicker than Hawaiian Punch!

Also... what fans are those? They look very... nippley..


----------



## lees800

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13336856*
> ^^Nice! What kind of coolant? Stuff looks thicker than Hawaiian Punch!
> 
> Also... what fans are those? They look very... nippley..


Thermaltake TurboFans..i'm pulling them out soon and putting something else in. Just have to match the color.

The coolant is Fluid XP+ Extreme Nano Blood Red. Which is more bright red. But it does look just like H.P. lmao!! It's not as thick as it looks. Just not translucent at all. Horrible to bleed but once you do..slightly cooler temps.

(probably until it totally clogs my system lol..just trying it out for now)


----------



## Bradford1040

well I am kinda upset please tell me that I can run the aluminum rad in my all copper/brass/nickel system with out to many problems? I sent one of my guys out to pick up a used case and was told even by him that it was copper rad but as it got back to me it was not! I am now stuck with this item and wishing I did not get it now. I am just hoping that I can use it in the system with out problems? I don't want to use it for long just in till I save up enough to replace or will that be bad (only about 4 weeks or so) I got screwed lol! (Learning)


----------



## Onions

well you rly shouldnt but you can use some anti corrossive materials in it.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13338907*
> well you rly shouldnt but you can use some anti corrossive materials in it.


i know, I got screwed and I have been here trying to figure out how to do this with out going past my spending limit! I wanted to get a case and build it so nice! I really screwed myself I paid 190usd for what I thought was a haf932 two 480 rads which they are lol (alum!!!) and the koolance 4 fan shroud with scythe fans and custom paint (paints not bad and has FRoz-cpu sound material in it) do you think I did bad considering I could have a lain li for 135usd shipped a pc-a70b

ps what stuff would make it work so no corrosion


----------



## Onions

antifreeze will work .. if your willing to change the water often its fine... however if the seller didnt inform you of the rad type or they were missinforming you then you can always take action especially if it was with pay pal


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13339000*
> antifreeze will work .. if your willing to change the water often its fine... however if the seller didnt inform you of the rad type or they were missinforming you then you can always take action especially if it was with pay pal


misinformed and I had my guy go pick it up, and of coarse now he said he told me it was alum when I knew it would hurt if it was! I just don't feel like getting in a fight over this so screw it! Now how often would I have to change and would I still use primo chill or distilled water and if ether one how much anto freeze and how long can I use with out hurting my stuff


----------



## Bradford1040

I think I got it I am going to use the koolance 4 fan should on top of the 932 as just air for now put the intel air cooled rig in that case with the h50 pushing in and the 4 fans up top suckin out the door fan in and the front fan in should be great air flow and also mod the hdd cage to put a 120 on it to cool the 3way sli sound good?


----------



## Onions

that would work however you can get away with using about 10% antifreeze its safe just dont drink it


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13339110*
> that would work however you can get away with using about 10% antifreeze its safe just dont drink it


10% anti freeze and water/primo? and why can't I drink it come on lol! ok so it won't hurt my stuff?


----------



## Onions

to distilled always use distilled with some pt nuke and or kill coil and it wont hurt your stuff only thing is your pump might have to work harder as the anti freezr is slightly more viscous


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13339146*
> to distilled always use distilled with some pt nuke and or kill coil and it wont hurt your stuff only thing is your pump might have to work harder as the anti freezr is slightly more viscous


me to so it will come out right


----------



## Kahbrohn

Additionally... with just DW you insure to not void any warranties on your WC components like pumps, block's and such. Some pumps for example are very explicit in this regard. Probably be safer to avoid additieves all together.


----------



## Heartl3ss

can i mount a 360 Radiator on the back of the CM 690 II advanced? for example the XSPC RX360 rad..

Sent from my Brain using Telepathy.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


Where do you think I should mount my PSU in a Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24? I can't mount it where it is supposed to be because my fitting on the rad is in the way...
I will try to get pics up.

I think I know where I want to put it, but wanted some more input. maybe I will find a better place.


Sorry for not getting pics up I have been busy. Later today.
Any input without pics?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

you can fit a double thick rad up top with either push or pull if you place the psu in its stock position.


----------



## SimpleTech

I told myself I wouldn't ever buy an AIO water cooling unit but...

Before:










After:


----------



## UrbanSmooth

And? ^^


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


And? ^^


It blew up. J/K

Not much change in temperatures considering their i3 540 is only overclocked to 3.7GHz. Have to RMA one of my MSI boards which can overclock easier.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


you can fit a double thick rad up top with either push or pull if you place the psu in its stock position.


My fitting is in the way. I can't put the side with the fittings on the front end.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


My fitting is in the way. I can't put the side with the fittings on the front end.


yes you can.


----------



## Triangle

Yes, I can, but then I can't put the fittings on.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

what about using rotaries?


----------



## Triangle

I thought about that... No.

EDIT: Here is pic.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

you could flip the back panel possibly.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


you could flip the back panel possibly.


I was going to do that when I put the case together, but was too lazy.

I guess I will have to do that now then...


----------



## lees800

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lees800*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`*

I saw your water cooling pc and was wondering what red coolant did you use and what fans are those.


Thermaltake TurboFans..i'm pulling them out soon and putting something else in. Just have to match the color.

The coolant is Fluid XP+ Extreme Nano Blood Red. Which is more bright red. But it does look just like H.P. lmao!! It's not as thick as it looks. Just not translucent at all. Horrible to bleed but once you do..slightly cooler temps.

(probably until it totally clogs my system lol..just trying it out for now)


why is it horrible to bleed.


It just holds bubbles in their tracks and doesn't let them flow through..

UPDATE: I was looking at the my drain tube this morning and saw this odd sludge looking stuff. It was like the fluid was separating. I checked my temps and they shot up almost 10C. I started running a light behind the tubing and this odd white substance was all in the coolant.

I set it up to drain and as soon as I pulled the plug, clumps started flowing out. It took hours of flushing to get it all out.

Now I am just running distilled and i'm going to have a silver coil overnighted tomorrow. This stuff really confuses me. Fluid XP+ Nano..sounds like good stuff..false! (or at least for me)

PS I have 2 full bottles of this stuff sitting around now. But you can see it separating in both bottles. FrozenCPU gets a email :\\


----------



## CrimsonMango

got the tubing set up today - just waiting on a couple of parts , and then it'll be up and running


















Project Three Mile Island Revisited: E1.0


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Triangle, how much does that fitting not let the psu clear by? I'm thinking if you used a different 90 degree fitting it would work since the fitting would be nearly flush with the radiator


----------



## Triangle

That is how much it needs to clear. Give or take a tiny bit.


----------



## motoray

New setup


----------



## Triangle

Those rads are so huge...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13346456*
> updated


I dont see myself on the list anymore.. But its hard to read the hundreds of em.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray;13346540*
> i dont see myself on the list anymore.. But its hard to read the hundreds of em.


#291


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13346320*
> That is how much it needs to clear. Give or take a tiny bit.
> 
> [/URL][/QUOTE]
> 
> use extenders or put the fans on the other side lol


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray;13346401*
> New setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


holy crap you have all that rad for just a CPU and one GPU







Are you going for just radiant cooling with no fans?


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog;13346704*
> holy crap you have all that rad for just a CPU and one GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going for just radiant cooling with no fans?


Well when bulldozer launches im going to get a second 6970 or a 6990. There is one fan pulling on the internal 120, and 5 fans on the big rad. I will add 4 more fans when the next gpu is added.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13346670*
> #291


Thanks


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;13346701*
> use extenders or put the fans on the other side lol


I could put the fans on the other side, but it would make other things much harder...


----------



## Bradford1040

new case, I also got a Haf 932 which I did not need! I guess I will put aside and find a place for both the 922 & 932 now but, I am very happy with both the SilverStone TJ-10 and the Lian Li pc-a70b they both are very big, light, and just down right beautiful! I am putting together the Intel/SilverStone rig right now and will switch the Amd into the Lian Li this week will take pictures and post. I just got a hold of two Danger Den GtX 260 gpu water block looking for a third then the LAN will move to water as well

P.S. Edit forgot Dimensions: 220 x 595 x 590mm


----------



## KShirza1

update


----------



## wermad

^^^pretty door, though I would have turned the window 90° to the left to see the entire mb and the water loop.


----------



## Kahbrohn

I cant decide whats the overkill... the 1080 rad or the internal 120???

Just kidding. Good job! What are the temps lie now?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Love your build KShirza, and you keep improving it! Personally I agree with wermad on the door, but the interior paneling you did is definitely worth showing off


----------



## adamwzl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX;13321801*
> Moved the 6970 up a slot and added a Ref 6950.
> 
> Does anyone know if theres a ref 6950 block that is nickel/acetal that would mach the one on my non-ref 6970:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12491/ex-blc-871/EK_Radeon_HD_6970_V2_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-FC6970_V2_NickelAcetal_Non_-_Reference_Design_Cards.html


Im not too sure if anyone has answered you yet. But yea just grab the 6970 acetal/nickel ref block. Thats what Im using on both of my 6950s.


----------



## tzillian

hey guys, i got a g1 assassin and will be using red coolant on it (thermochill ec6). i had the collant before i had the assassin so i dont want to have to buy new green coolant. does this combo of red and green go together?


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray;13346401*
> New setup











so much just for a x4 amd chip??? and 1 6970?

my gawd can you say OVERKILL

and your just at 3.8ghz?! wut in the world


----------



## Hysteria~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13356654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much just for a x4 amd chip??? and 1 6970?
> 
> my gawd can you say OVERKILL


No such thing! XD


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzillian;13356634*
> hey guys, i got a g1 assassin and will be using red coolant on it (thermochill ec6). i had the collant before i had the assassin so i dont want to have to buy new green coolant. does this combo of red and green go together?


I'm not one for red and green even during the holidays but I'd definitely say no with that shade of green. Honestly it's up to personal preference. Everyone here will tell you to avoid the colored coolants anyway. Why not use distilled+pt/kill coil?

p.s. that's a smexy board but that price!


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13356654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much just for a x4 amd chip??? and 1 6970?
> 
> my gawd can you say OVERKILL
> 
> and your just at 3.8ghz?! wut in the world


Kevin doesn't like it if you quote more than 1 pic.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13356981*
> Kevin doesn't like it if you quote more than 1 pic.


I hate quoting pictures PERIOD!...

back to the overkill thing... no way, I love it man, that rad is HUGE and does a great job cooling too, I wish I could mount it externally but it wouldn't work for me and my travels very well.


----------



## FreeWillzyx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hysteria~;13356696*
> No such thing! XD


Agreed!


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13350895*
> I cant decide whats the overkill... the 1080 rad or the internal 120???
> 
> Just kidding. Good job! What are the temps lie now?


everything full load caps about 37-38c with my room around 75-76f
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13356654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much just for a x4 amd chip??? and 1 6970?
> 
> my gawd can you say OVERKILL
> 
> and your just at 3.8ghz?! wut in the world


This is going to cool a bulldozer chip and a added 6990 for trifire in about 5 weeks. So overkill atm but will be put to work soon. Plus due to overkillness only running 5 fans on the big rad and i can ass 4 more plus im only using 1k fans that are completely silent low flow.


----------



## KShirza1

update on the final touch


----------



## Triangle

Nice job!


----------



## Bradford1040

why did you add that last piece? not that it looks bad just why?


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


why did you add that last piece? not that it looks bad just why?


trying to add some flavor to it, so it doesnt look plain, and the next step was maybe to add a window to the ssd's in the drive bay.

feedback please.

FYI im getting ready for intel lanfest desertbash here in phoenix for the cpu mag mod contest. purely aesthetic, so more feedback the better.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KShirza1*


trying to add some flavor to it, so it doesnt look plain, and the next step was maybe to add a window to the ssd's in the drive bay.

feedback please.

FYI im getting ready for intel lanfest desertbash here in phoenix for the cpu mag mod contest. purely aesthetic, so more feedback the better.


well it looks awesome but I don't know if that piece adds or takes away, kinda think it is to much, I build hotrods like my 1923 t-bucket and some times less is more to judges


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


well it looks awesome but I don't know if that piece adds or takes away, kinda think it is to much, I build hotrods like my 1923 t-bucket and some times less is more to judges


def good advice, thank you


----------



## CrimsonMango

Nostalgia part one


----------



## CrimsonMango

Nostalgia part two


----------



## Bradford1040

I meant to ask you the other day CrimsonMango did you mod the top, or is that a bought one?


----------



## CrimsonMango

Nostalgia part three


----------



## CrimsonMango

Nostalgia part four


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


I meant to ask you the other day CrimsonMango did you mod the top, or is that a bought one?



To which case? The Lian Li PC-75B?

if so, the one in the nostalgia photo above with the BIX III, and the newer PC-75B in my Three Mile Island E1.0 thread with the PA 120.3 - both were original tops, modded by me to accept the 120.3 radiators


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


To which case? The Lian Li PC-75B?

if so, the one in the nostalgia photo above with the BIX III, and the newer PC-75B in my Three Mile Island E1.0 thread with the PA 120.3 - both were original tops, modded by me to accept the 120.3 radiators


yes the lian li pc-75, as you know I got the Lian Li pc-a70b coming in thursday and want to put a 3 x120


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


yes the lian li pc-75, as you know I got the Lian Li pc-a70b coming in thursday and want to put a 3 x120


if anything - drill out the rivets on the top, pull it off, box it up, send it to me, and I'll mod it for a 120.3 or 120.4 radiator w/ either 15 or 25mm spacing - do it on the low-low for you too


----------



## wermad

Crimson, what happened to the Skulltrail/green MM build?

Sorry, last time I looked you were ill I believe, and its been a while


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mastical

Do you have astroturf as carpet?


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Do you have astroturf as carpet?



no, but I am the self proclaimed Uber Green Guru









that was the super-green carpeting in my old room


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango;13365394*
> no, but I am the self proclaimed Uber Green Guru
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that was the super-green carpeting in my old room


dude Thanks for talking me into the Lian Li, dam thing is perfect!!! I could not ask for a better layout and the case I got has all screws from Lian Li no pop rivets well there is a few but none for top or hard drive cages just on the support bar across the back that's it. I am also making Rodney Reynolds happy as both my builds have removable mother board trays lol! Once again thank you for all your help


----------



## CalypsoRaz

As compression fittings go, is the status quo 1/2" ID-3/4" OD? The tubing I have currently is 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD with 1/2" ID-5/8" OD Bitspower fittings and are they ever a mf to tighten. Is this because of the tubing I'm using?

As you can see here:


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


As compression fittings go, is the status quo 1/2" ID-3/4" OD? The tubing I have currently is 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD with 1/2" ID-5/8" OD Bitspower fittings and are they ever a mf to tighten. Is this because of the tubing I'm using?


I always thought with compression fittings you use the same size tubing they are made for. Useing 7/16 tubing over 1/2 barbs is only on barbs not compression fittings.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


I always thought with compression fittings you use the same size tubing they are made for. Useing 7/16 tubing over 1/2 barbs is only on barbs not compression fittings.


That's what I figured. Just using the tubing I already had, didn't really think about it until after I got the fittings. Oh well, I'll just get the right tubing/fittings.


----------



## sprower

Did you try wetting the tube first? That makes it much easier to tighten those things down.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


Did you try wetting the tube first? That makes it much easier to tighten those things down.


I really don't see how wetting the tubing is going to help, considering I was using two pair of pliers to tighten them.


----------



## sprower

Ouch.. yeah not much you can do there heh.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


I really don't see how wetting the tubing is going to help, considering I was using two pair of pliers to tighten them.


Definitely need the right diameter tubing, the reason you can't tighten it properly is because the wall is too thick for the fitting. Compressions are precisely made and require the matching tubing size.


----------



## soulster

Anyone know of a mid tower (similar sized to CM690IIAdv) to hole a triple rad up top? Or modded the case to hold a triple rad? Could probably cut out the hdrive dock since I don't use it lol.

Cheers in advance


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


As compression fittings go, is the status quo 1/2" ID-3/4" OD? The tubing I have currently is 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD with 1/2" ID-5/8" OD Bitspower fittings and are they ever a mf to tighten. Is this because of the tubing I'm using?


you have to use the same id and od tubing with compression fittings otherwise you risk having the tubing slip off, especially if the od is smaller than it is supposed to be even if the id of the tubing is smaller than the barb part on the compression fitting. Using the incorrect sized tubing is stupid.

btw... u only have to lightly hand tighten compression fittings. I've never had one slip off or leak after using them in multiple builds and 30 in my current build. If it doesn't match you WILL have problems eventually, especially when the loop heats up.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soulster*


Anyone know of a mid tower (similar sized to CM690IIAdv) to hole a triple rad up top? Or modded the case to hold a triple rad? Could probably cut out the hdrive dock since I don't use it lol.

Cheers in advance










mountain mods monticle can fit one up top and the Danger Den tower 21 can fit one up front. Both can be purchased in any color you want, just have to ask. DD is extremely accommodating. Open fan holes are an option on the Tower 21 if you don't like the DD logo.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soulster*


Anyone know of a mid tower (similar sized to CM690IIAdv) to hole a triple rad up top? Or modded the case to hold a triple rad? Could probably cut out the hdrive dock since I don't use it lol.

Cheers in advance










you could with a lot of modding fit a 360 rad up top of a Lian Li PC-a05n like my friend is doing.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soulster*


Anyone know of a mid tower (similar sized to CM690IIAdv) to hole a triple rad up top? Or modded the case to hold a triple rad? Could probably cut out the hdrive dock since I don't use it lol.

Cheers in advance










As stallion said, the Mountain Mods Monticle will it a 360 rad up top.


----------



## soulster

Quote:



mountain mods monticle can fit one up top and the Danger Den tower 21 can fit one up front. Both can be purchased in any color you want, just have to ask. DD is extremely accommodating. Open fan holes are an option on the Tower 21 if you don't like the DD logo.


+rep

That mountain mods monticle looks quite nice. The DD looks out of proportion to me, slightly tall looking lol.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soulster*


That mountain mods monticle looks quite nice. The DD looks out of proportion to me, slightly tall looking lol.


The Monticle is a short version of my case. The Pinnacle.


----------



## bob808

Just finished this build. This is the second water-cooled rig I have built and thought I would share. I am hoping to sell this rig to get my $$ back so I can finance the next project. What do you guys think?

























lit up. lighting has been re-routed so you dont see the actual leds or the cable
















back side with small res window for easy fluid level checking.









link to build log if you would like to know more about this one - 
http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...-mkg-700d.html


----------



## Forsaken_id

^^That is awesome!


----------



## Triangle

Very nice.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808;13375188*
> Just finished this build. This is the second water-cooled rig I have built and thought I would share. I am hoping to sell this rig to get my $$ back so I can finance the next project. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> link to build log if you would like to know more about this one -[URL=http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/976107-mkg-700d.html]http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/976107-mkg-700d.html[/URL][/QUOTE]
> 
> Looks pretty good man, excellent color combination.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

I like that SLI bridge, had not seen that one before.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulster;13374941*
> +rep
> 
> That mountain mods monticle looks quite nice. The DD looks out of proportion to me, slightly tall looking lol.


Yeah the tower 21 has similar proportions as the monticle, but it's just turned on its side. Both can fit a 360 and a 240 internally so you will have no trouble cooling everything you need.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13377614*
> updated
> 
> I like that SLI bridge, had not seen that one before.


what a flex one, if you want come get one i have many, as you know I am about 20min from you, so its your for the low price of picking it up lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13379448*
> what a flex one, if you want come get one i have many, as you know I am about 20min from you, so its your for the low price of picking it up lol


I meant the water block connector, thanks though


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13379461*
> I meant the water block connector, thanks though


oh:doh: sorry


----------



## stingerjg

double post
sry, wi-fi is messing w/ me. lol


----------



## stingerjg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


you could with a lot of modding fit a 360 rad up top of a Lian Li PC-a05n like my friend is doing.


I think i know they guy you are referring to.


----------



## badatgames18

i don't even know if mine counts as it is mostly air cooling :/


































updated :/ i need a new rad!!! and some 560 blocks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

definitely counts


----------



## thrasherht

ok guys, I need your help choosing something.
I have had my cooling kit since november, and I need to get some dye for it.
Before you go off and tell me the horrors of dye, I know. This if for a Tech Expo being held at my school.
I am going to setup my computer to be as flash and possible. I am putting in my Swiftech micro res so that you can actually see the water flowing through, and I want to get some super bright blue dye that will glow under UV, that way it really stands out to the crowd.

what is your suggestion on making it extra flashy. Picture of the res mounted ready for to be put to use.
Tell me what you think.
EDIT: sorry for the huge pictures. I fixed them.


----------



## Timechange01

A pic of my temporary loop:










Yes I know its ugly. The reason I went with clear tubing is because it will be easier to drain. I have a second Hydro Copper card coming in the mail next week so I will be redoing my whole loop. Going back to white tubing


----------



## Forsaken_id

Doesn't look bad to me, the clear has it's own appeal.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## TheRealHeavyG

*Cooling Components*
EK Supreme HF CPU Water Block
2 x EK GeForce 570/580 GTX Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal
EK FC Bridge Dual Serial SLI Connection
Black Ice Xtreme 360 Radiator
Black Ice Xtreme 120 Radiator
XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir
IandH StealthRes Deluxe Tube Mult-Option 225 Reservoir
3 x 120x25mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon 4250 RPM
1 x 120x10mm Sythe Slip Stream Slim w/7" gasket
2 x 120x38mm Fans
Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller
Tygon 1/2" ID Tubing
Swiftech MCP655-B Pump


----------



## MrJackson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRealHeavyG;13384969*
> *Cooling Components*
> Black Ice Xtreme 360 Radiator
> 3 x 120x25mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon 4250 RPM


How do those AP-30's sound and work on the GTX360? I'm considering them for my build.


----------



## TheRealHeavyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrJackson;13385015*
> How do those AP-30's sound and work on the GTX360? I'm considering them for my build.


At full speed they are pretty noisy, but I run them at about 80% on the fan controller and it keeps them pretty quiet while still blowing plenty of air through the rad.

With my Slip-Streams, I was running at about 39C at idle, but now at 32C. At full load (both CPU and GPU), my CPU temps used to hit 70-75C, but now I run 60-63C with the fan at 80%. I am usually under 60C with the fan at 100%


----------



## bob808

That looks really nice HeavyG








Only things I would suggest is running the 8pin mobo power cable behind the motherboard tray and maybe a couple of your water tubing lines look a bit too long. Great job! I have a watercooled cosmos w/ black tubes too







great minds think alike heh-

+rep to you and welcome to OCN


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRealHeavyG;13384969*
> *Cooling Components*
> snip......


i likey! definitely jelly









but why do you need 2 blue ray drives? can i haz 1?


----------



## TheRealHeavyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808;13386494*
> That looks really nice HeavyG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only things I would suggest is running the 8pin mobo power cable behind the motherboard tray and maybe a couple of your water tubing lines look a bit too long. Great job! I have a watercooled cosmos w/ black tubes too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> great minds think alike heh-
> 
> +rep to you and welcome to OCN


Thanks for the rep! I actually have some sleeved 4 pin extension cables on the way that will match my other cables. I will clean-up the ugliness soon enough.

I also have a sheet of carbon fiber ready to be cut into a panel to cover the "tool-less" ugliness that is visible through the case window. Maybe I will have some time over the weekend to get it cut and installed.

Also, you are right about the lines being too long, but that was partly by design. I gave two of the lines some extra slack so I can pull my top reservoir out just enough so I can unscrew the top when draining/filling my system. I didn't do this with my first loop and while it looked better, it took forever to get water out as I couldn't pop the top to relieve any pressure.

I also went cheap on the barbs this go-around as I was already over budget on the build, so not many angles. Maybe I will figure out a better way during the next rebuild.


----------



## TheRealHeavyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13386531*
> i likey! definitely jelly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but why do you need 2 blue ray drives? can i haz 1?


It was originally a rip monster, backing up all of my media (CD, DVD, and BluRay) to be put on my HTPC. It just made more sense at the time to have two burners that can do pretty much anything and these drives were on sale for $60/ea. I got a lot of ripping done.


----------



## SethCohen

Loooove this thread! I think I am going to save all the pics at my hdd !


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SethCohen;13395985*
> Loooove this thread! I think I am going to save all the pics at my hdd !


That would make for an awesome collection!!


----------



## CrimsonMango

got everything set up... looks a bit thirsty to me


----------



## UrbanSmooth

So much win!


----------



## KillerBeaz

has an old school look to it, i like it!


----------



## Onions

wow your the **** i love your rig


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

So how's that res below the pump working out for you


----------



## adamwzl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13397443*
> So how's that res below the pump working out for you


its working, but for how long?


----------



## bob808

Looks cool CrimsonMango. I wonder what the water temp will be after running through all those blocks.. Why do you have 2 crossfire cables hooked up? I thought you only used more than one when you have more than 2 gpus hooked up


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808;13398067*
> Looks cool CrimsonMango. I wonder what the water temp will be after running through all those blocks.. Why do you have 2 crossfire cables hooked up? I thought you only used more than one when you have more than 2 gpus hooked up


bc it looks better and doesn't decrease performance


----------



## Onions

i think you should fix your post its kinda stupid


----------



## Triangle

Your post messes up my screen. :-/


----------



## superhead91

really?


----------



## bobfig

looks like he is ether drunk or his account has been hacked


----------



## _s3v3n_

Been up and stable for 3 days now. Got lucky here didn't have to deal with leaks. Still need improvement - need to replace that crystal t-block with 45 degrees angle fittings.

I just wish I can get away with this weak pump that came with the kit.




































Updated PICS; Had to remove the 120 rad coz it was causing (major) flow issues going back to the reservoir/pump combo.


----------



## CrimsonMango

the water temp after going through all the blocks is just fine - I ran the same loops previously, and load temps never exceeded 40ºC

also, the reservoir below the pump works JUST FINE... as long as you prime the pump before turning it on, you will have absolutely no problems - I've been water cooling since 2003 and have never had a problem with reservoir placement effecting pump performance. Yes, if you have the reservoir above the pump, your loop will fill and bleed faster, but with the reservoir below the pump inlet, it will take longer to fill and bleed, but will have no impact on performance whatsoever as long as you don't run the pump dry for extended periods of time


----------



## fshizl

i dont know if you guys know, but to remove the tygoon lettering on the tubing, just rub it off with acetone... comes right off and doesnt damage the tube. atleast not the one I had...


----------



## Pascal1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_s3v3n_;13399007*
> Been up and stable for 3 days now. Got lucky here didn't have to deal with leaks. Still need improvement - need to replace that crystal t-block with 45 degrees angle fittings.
> 
> I just wish I can get away with this weak pump that came with the kit.


You'll get away with the pump, i just finished a build with the same pump,powering Koolance cpu360 1.2, 2 Ek GTX470 blocks and 2 xspc rads. I have no temperature or flow issues at all.


----------



## thrasherht

Crimson, what dye did you use for that coolant? It looks brighter then most I see.

I love the way that board with water cooling looks, having all the blocks really sets off the loop.
I think it would look better if that board was a bit more colorful.


----------



## MrJackson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13402766*
> Crimson, what dye did you use for that coolant? It looks brighter then most I see.


It looks like UV dye used for leak finding in automotive cooling systems.


----------



## mcj66106

Here is my rig. It's not finished but its up and running.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated with love by, your friend, kevingreenbmx...


----------



## sprower

^Sounds like a sequel... To Wong Fu Updated with love kevingreenbmx.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcj66106*


Here is my rig. It's not finished but its up and running.










I had never seen anyone flip the 932's board over! Looks good


----------



## BWG

Added a 120 RAD to my loop to help with the summer heat. Will take pics when my new camera comes. Dropped my temps 5C under load.


----------



## koven

all you water coolers... help OCN win by folding!!

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-folding-home-team/993932-official-2011-chimp-challenge-thread-2-a.html?


----------



## _s3v3n_

Folding away tonight as soon as I get home.


----------



## Compaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;13408233*
> all you water coolers... help OCN win by folding!!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-folding-home-team/993932-official-2011-chimp-challenge-thread-2-a.html?


Been Chimpin since it started.


----------



## koven

go OCN


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13402766*
> Crimson, what dye did you use for that coolant? It looks brighter then most I see.
> 
> I love the way that board with water cooling looks, having all the blocks really sets off the loop.
> I think it would look better if that board was a bit more colorful.


That is uv reactive automotive radiator leak test dye - it is available at some auto parts stores - they won't have it on the shelf, but ask the clerk for a bottle of radiator leak test dye and they'll know what you're talking about. In the Milwaukee area, I had to go to 5 different auto parts stores before I found one that had it in stock. It's not an extremely common item, but it is still readily available. Expect to shell out a meager $5-8 for a bottle (which will last forever - it's so concentrated that it is a dark red before adding it to water) If I remember correctly, this bottle was purchased at either the Checker-O'Reilly Auto Parts store on 76th & Capitol Dr. or AutoZone on 63rd & Capitol Dr. in Milwaukee, WI

Like any quality watercooling-specific UV dye, it is a non-pigment based, concentrated UV dye. Like you mentioned - I've used MANY, MANY dyes, and this stuff is still the brightest radioactive green I've ever seen (which under UV light looks AMAZING), doesn't stain the tubing, doesn't clog blocks, g and is cheap compared to most UV dyes branded for water cooling. The only downside is that it only comes in UV green.


----------



## MrJackson

I have that exact same bottle sitting on my desk, got it at Autozone, and it was on the shelf. Looks pretty cool in a loop.


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrJackson;13409839*
> I have that exact same bottle sitting on my desk, got it at Autozone, and it was on the shelf. Looks pretty cool in a loop.


you got lucky then


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


you got lucky then










OT but dang, who is that in your avatar?


----------



## fenderlove0`

wow can't believe I found this thread on the third page... shocking


----------



## Bradford1040

Are these pretty good?

I have been looking at so many fans on every dam site out there and these seem like delta's but a little cheaper? I am going to use them on a swiftech 240 or a black ice 120 cross flow! I don't know if they are good as far as fan controllers are concerned? I already have scythe fans 3000rpm but just want ones that I can kick in to help during games and such


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

quite similar to deltas. if you are talking about doing push/pull you will want to get matching fans for the other side of the rad


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13436450*
> quite similar to deltas. if you are talking about doing push/pull you will want to get matching fans for the other side of the rad


yeah that I know, but there are so many choices lol, like which tubing should I go with??? I am just doing clear and black and I want 7/16 x 5/8 so which brand is cheap but is good?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

primoflex is cheap and good. If you get it from amazon it is only $16 for 10 feet.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13436508*
> primoflex is cheap and good. If you get it from amazon it is only $16 for 10 feet.


what about masterklear it is cheap also, I have a order I am placing at Performance pc's so just going to get what they have but don't want to get crap ether! I also am just going to stick with primochill ice or is there a better brand? should b last question thanks


----------



## Triangle

Masterkleer is OK, but the primochill is better in my opinion.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

don't use primochill ice. save urself some money and just use distilled with either ptnuke/deadwater/ killcoil. I ordered the primoflex with free shipping from amazon. can't beat $1.60 per foot. Bend radius is insane as well


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13436603*
> don't use primochill ice. save urself some money and just use distilled with either ptnuke/deadwater/ killcoil. I ordered the primoflex with free shipping from amazon. can't beat $1.60 per foot. Bend radius is insane as well


Thank you, I am just sticking with the ICE fr now only becuase I am new to water and don't want to have any problems, you know how it is! You first start out and do everything by the book and later it seems as if you look back at all the money you wasted lol on doing things the way the salesman said to do (as so he make his pay check lol) When I switch over to just D-water, do I need to flush it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13436570*
> Masterkleer is OK, but the primochill is better in my opinion.


Thanks, between you both coming back with the same, you hit delete in my cart and primoflex is now in there lol


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

You won't need to flush or clean ur blocks unless it is colored coolant. If colored then u need to rip apart each block and clean it, if clear then no worries. Coolant is just water with glycol and some uv additive or dye for the most part, no safer than d water


----------



## sprower

First watercooling rig. I'm one of "those people" that should have planned a little better with the loop (it took 3 different orders to get the fittings right) but I had a lot going on with this build of excuses.








Just in time to help catch OCNChimpin up. Better late than never.









EK-Supreme HF
x2 EK-FC6970
Black Ice GTX 480
Swiftech MCP655
Bitspower pump top/accessories
400mm FrozenQ res
ID1/2 OD3/4


----------



## Bradford1040

yeah I can see that you had not planed that at all,









LOOKS awesome, jerk! lol


----------



## Onions

followed ur log and dam man you inspired me im getting my brother to start mine next week XD


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13436570*
> Masterkleer is OK, but the primochill is better in my opinion.


Feser tubing is great as well. I have nothing but love for it. I haven't ever used the Masterkleer since both Primochill and Feser are my go to companies for colored tubing.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13437016*
> Feser tubing is great as well. I have nothing but love for it. I haven't ever used the Masterkleer since both Primochill and Feser are my go to companies for colored tubing.


well that was the thing, I am using Clear & Black as I am using automotive UV dye for color. The stuff is out of this world bright!!!


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13436890*
> yeah I can see that you had not planed that at all,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOOKS awesome, jerk! lol


Thanks. Hah yeah I was a little vague there. Fixed that.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13436900*
> followed ur log and dam man you inspired me im getting my brother to start mine next week XD


Glad to have been an inspiration. Thank you. I better see a work log around here soon!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13437073*
> Thanks. Hah yeah I was a little vague there. Fixed that.


to bad you are out in Oregon as I would give you some work, I own a welding company and in need of a handyman/wood guy. I am great with metal but wood is not so my thing, I mess it up (don't ask why, I think it has to do with being a bull in china shop syndrome) But that is great work and your element table should go down in the mod of the month IMO


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13437126*
> to bad you are out in Oregon as I would give you some work, I own a welding company and in need of a handyman/wood guy. I am great with metal but wood is not so my thing, I mess it up (don't ask why, I think it has to do with being a bull in china shop syndrome) But that is great work and your element table should go down in the mod of the month IMO


To bad indeed. I could use the work for more parts and thanks again.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13436844*
> First watercooling rig. I'm one of "those people" that should have planned a little better with the loop (it took 3 different orders to get the fittings right) but I had a lot going on with this build of excuses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just in time to help catch OCNChimpin up. Better late than never.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-Supreme HF
> x2 EK-FC6970
> Black Ice GTX 480
> Swiftech MCP655
> Bitspower pump top/accessories
> 400mm FrozenQ res
> ID1/2 OD3/4
> 
> *pics*


Looks great, looks a bit like the L3P desk though







You guys have the right idea though- when I wind up settling down somewhere this is the sort of build I'll be doing


----------



## Pascal1973

Rebuild, and wc-ed gpu's. Added a 360 rad, still powered by xspc750 pump. Temperatures are quite allright, considering the pump is underpowered for this setup. I made a nickel plate for the sli-bridge, please feel free to comment.

















In the reflection of the sli bridge, you can see the rear end my other hobby.....fast motorbikes!!!


----------



## Forsaken_id

^^I like it.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13439200*
> Looks great, looks a bit like the L3P desk though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys have the right idea though- when I wind up settling down somewhere this is the sort of build I'll be doing


Thanks. Yeap L3p pushed me over the edge and forced me to produce. My build is very... well.. wall independent. Although it'd still be a chore I can rearrange my furniture.







Also... I think my wife would have me killed if I drilled holes in the floor to run my rads in the crawlspace (if not the black widows down there







).


----------



## Forsaken_id

^^Your build is awesome.


----------



## Pascal1973

Thanx! I'll try to make some pics with lights on. So far they look like [email protected], the Corsair logo is lit from the back with a glowpad, that looks like a welding flash in the pics....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Hard Line

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Marauder_IIc*


Quick question for you intel overclockers on water.

For a 930 running a 50% OC (4.2ghz), or frankly anything over 4ghz, what VCore are you running, for a stable system, preferably 24/7? And what temps with it?

Im gettin back into overclocking (a few years out of the game) and I got a i7 for a deal that rivalled highway robbery, I got it mostly stable (water stuff is on its way) but im having a hard time getting past 4.01ghz.

**EDIT**
Also, anyone know if there is an aftermarket side panel for the Cosmos S that supports say 4x120mm fans?


I am running 4.41 with 1.35v with temps around 30-35-30-35C idle and load is about 56-63-56-63. hope this helps ya


----------



## motoray

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pascal1973*












That's a very nice clean job man. Only complaint is can you paint your reservoir to match the blackness of your case? It would really complete the look. Other than that


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13437016*
> Feser tubing is great as well. I have nothing but love for it. I haven't ever used the Masterkleer since both Primochill and Feser are my go to companies for colored tubing.


I was rather dissapointed with Feser's 1/16th wall tubing...But then again, most 1/16 tubing is weak. Tygon's R3603 is working quite nicely for me, now.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;13446221*
> I was rather dissapointed with Feser's 1/16th wall tubing...But then again, most 1/16 tubing is weak. Tygon's R3603 is working quite nicely for me, now.


All the Feser I've used is 1/8 inch thick. 1/2"ID and 3/4" OD, you can probably get it in a few other sizes that make it thinner, I never checked.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;13439223*
> Rebuild, and wc-ed gpu's. Added a 360 rad, still powered by xspc750 pump. Temperatures are quite allright, considering the pump is underpowered for this setup. I made a nickel plate for the sli-bridge, please feel free to comment.


I got a question, how did you get that sli/crossfire bridge to look like that?

Edit: I know its nickel but how did you attach it?


----------



## Bradford1040

I have a question for anyone that has a CoolGate Rad, I understand it has a fill port on the bottom or on the other side from the in/out ports, Question is can that be used as a IN port.

For all those wondering why, I think that it will look better and cool better than the Black ice cross flow. If I am wrong on all accounts please tell me. Thanks

GOD I just looked at my receipts from the past two weeks! OMG the wife will kill me, I have not even got done with anything to show her and even worse nothing to show you guys yet lol. Got a lot of stuff though lol, also still looking for just one GTX260 danger den Water block, have the other two for the LAN rig


----------



## yancyv8

View attachment 209777


View attachment 209778


Heres my first build ever! I'm 15 and i think i did a pretty good job. I had a lot of help from some friends of mine that have built stuff themselves. Its not much of a water cooler right now but im going to do a full case liquid cool in about a month on the cpu, the motherboard, and the gpu's. Hope you like it.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yancyv8;13447664*
> View attachment 209777
> 
> 
> View attachment 209778
> 
> 
> Heres my first build ever! I'm 15 and i think i did a pretty good job. I had a lot of help from some friends of mine that have built stuff themselves. Its not much of a water cooler right now but im going to do a full case liquid cool in about a month on the cpu, the motherboard, and the gpu's. Hope you like it.


That's a sweet first build!


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yancyv8;13447664*
> View attachment 209777
> 
> 
> View attachment 209778
> 
> 
> Heres my first build ever! I'm 15 and i think i did a pretty good job. I had a lot of help from some friends of mine that have built stuff themselves. Its not much of a water cooler right now but im going to do a full case liquid cool in about a month on the cpu, the motherboard, and the gpu's. Hope you like it.


Nice job!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Pascal1973

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


I got a question, how did you get that sli/crossfire bridge to look like that?

Edit: I know its nickel but how did you attach it?


It is stainless steel,polished. Used double sided foam tape to stick it on to the pcb.


----------



## BWG

I love the cable management in those Corsair 600T cases! I almost bought one, but I am a sucker for anything blue. I have a new camera being delivered today and I am going to snap some quality pictures. I need some suggestions on a gap in between my 240 RAD and the top of my case.


----------



## Bradford1040

ever want extra power but don't know where to fit it

That dam thing is so cute, and I am thinking it could help some of you that have started getting to the end of you power supply but don't want to buy another or just don't want to upset your rig by taking the PSU you mite of painted or covered out, this thing is only the size of a 120mm fan if you can believe that


----------



## MrJackson

And to think, my PSU upgrade just came today!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrJackson*


And to think, my PSU upgrade just came today!


wise guy, I just thought I would help some is all. never seen such a small PSU before and with it being 80 plus Bronze and having a bracket included for ATX mounting. I figured no one else had seen it ether so just putting my







in


----------



## MrJackson

That's the size used in the small shuttle cases, I don't think I've seen a 450w 80plus before though.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrJackson*


That's the size used in the small shuttle cases, I don't think I've seen a 450w 80plus before though.


I know what it is used for but as I was saying it does come with a ATX bracket also. I just was thinking about people that wanted to power there pumps and lights and such with a extra psu but don't have a lot of room in there case this thing can be modded to fit in the same foot print as 120mm fan almost that is, it is 5mm bigger 125 x 100 x 63.5 is pretty dam small lol


----------



## yang88she

nothing crazy, but it sure is nice to stretch out my tri sli w/ my [email protected]


----------



## yancyv8

I WANT JIRAPANPOO's BUILD! Does anyone know if he has a build log or a parts list?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yancyv8;13457661*
> I WANT JIRAPANPOO's BUILD! Does anyone know if he has a build log or a parts list?


PM him


----------



## BWG

Here is a much better picture of everything done! I even re-did all the cables! I added a 120 RAD to the loop too.

Look at my loop. I have a RAD before and after the pump. Do you think I should put the 120 RAD between the CPU and GPU?


----------



## Dissentience

That's a lot of tubing! That loop must hold lots of water.


----------



## BWG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;13458953*
> That's a lot of tubing! That loop must hold lots of water.


Nag Nag Nag. This is my first loop ever. Look at the first pics I took! You think this is a lot of tubing, wait until you see those lol!


----------



## Dissentience

I wasn't saying it was a bad thing


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13458932*
> 
> Look at my loop. I have a RAD before and after the pump. Do you think I should put the 120 RAD between the CPU and GPU?


Its really just up to you, the water will reach an equilibrium and pretty much stay there..most folks go res-pump-rad-cpu-rad-gpu-rad-back to res.

Nice first loop, I like it.


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13458932*
> Here is a much better picture of everything done! I even re-did all the cables! I added a 120 RAD to the loop too.
> 
> Look at my loop. I have a RAD before and after the pump. Do you think I should put the 120 RAD between the CPU and GPU?


What size tubing is that?


----------



## BWG

1/2, 1/16, 3/8 fester aka cheap! $2.67 at Micro Center.

I think I may put the 120 after the CPU just to see what happens. Easy mod. Thanks guys! I need some positive re-inforcement tonight. Girlfriend was nagging, so naturally all I heard was nag nag nag even if you were not. Sorry lol!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

like my case on facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150177014599886&set=a.10150177014349886.317283.194326094885&type=1&theater


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;13459356*
> like my case on facebook:
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150177014599886&set=a.10150177014349886.317283.194326094885&type=1&theater


Done!


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;13439223*
> Rebuild, and wc-ed gpu's. Added a 360 rad, still powered by xspc750 pump. Temperatures are quite allright, considering the pump is underpowered for this setup. I made a nickel plate for the sli-bridge, please feel free to comment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the reflection of the sli bridge, you can see the rear end my other hobby.....fast motorbikes!!!


I like this alot! Great job


----------



## whood886

i have a question about Pascal1973's gpu water blocks. does the top gpu not get less water because its just going straight through into the connecting tube? or are the ek blocks not designed like that. i maybe mistaken but i think my 5870 koolance block goes straight through. any one understand what im talking about?


----------



## Onions

yes and it gets good flow its a water pressure thing


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


Done!










Thanks bud


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Does it count if only 1/2 my orders for parts have arrived so far?


















The rest is inbound, due in Thursday-Saturday.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

you have to show your complete working rig to join the club.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whood886*


i have a question about Pascal1973's gpu water blocks. does the top gpu not get less water because its just going straight through into the connecting tube? or are the ek blocks not designed like that. i maybe mistaken but i think my 5870 koolance block goes straight through. any one understand what im talking about?


Because the outlet is on the opposite side of the bottom card the water has the same distance to travel through each path (and theoretically the same resistance) so the flow splits evenly. That's a 'parallel flow' setup, where flowrate through both cards remains the same as the loop rate, but the pressure in each block is lower than the loop pressure.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pascal1973*


Rebuild, and wc-ed gpu's. Added a 360 rad, still powered by xspc750 pump. Temperatures are quite allright, considering the pump is underpowered for this setup. I made a nickel plate for the sli-bridge, please feel free to comment.

















In the reflection of the sli bridge, you can see the rear end my other hobby.....fast motorbikes!!!


















i just mastrubated while watching this picture , man it is beautifull , btw i have few questions have you modded the sidepannel? it would be a shame not to see this , and as much as i see you painted this corsair picture youself? but what material did you made this cover of? i mean the cover you painted the picture on?


----------



## Canis-X

TMI TMI


----------



## Pascal1973

Quote:



Originally Posted by *athlon 64*









i just mastrubated while watching this picture , man it is beautifull , btw i have few questions have you modded the sidepannel? it would be a shame not to see this , and as much as i see you painted this corsair picture youself? but what material did you made this cover of? i mean the cover you painted the picture on?



I made a window in the sidepanel.The "panel-gpu-duct thingie" inside the case i made of plexiglass, bent it 90 degrees,and a bit of dremeling to make it fit. Friend of mine owns a sticker-shop, he plotted the corsair logo out of the sticker-foil.I put a glowpad behind the plex, so when the rig is powered, the corsair logo is lit white.It is quite hard to make a decent pic of that,i'm not much of a photographer.....









About the parralel setup of the gpu-blocks, because i use a cheap pump, i wanted less restriction, you can divide the restriction of the gpu-blocks by 4, just by setting them parralel instead of serial. Temperatures are pretty much the same for both cards, about 1 deg difference.


----------



## whood886

thanks, i'll have to do some research on this. i really love that set up and how those clear tubes look. good work


----------



## athlon 64

mm , nice sidepannel you made there , tnx for a pic , yours rig is really beautifull


----------



## Pascal1973

Thanx, i've built quite a few rigs over the years....


----------



## masonkian

got 2 gtx480's for £296 for the pair








one gigabyte rev 1.1 and a zotac amp


----------



## Riskitall84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonkian;13467097*
> got 2 gtx480's for £296 for the pair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one gigabyte rev 1.1 and a zotac amp


Saw this over on the Aria forums - Thats a real nice build mate and what a price for the GTX 480's!


----------



## masonkian

yeh thanks m8

cracking deal on the 480's makes it all the sweeter


----------



## Pascal1973

I promised a pic with logo lit, this is the best i could do....


----------



## BWG

I think you have a little air in your loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop;13461802*
> Does it count if only 1/2 my orders for parts have arrived so far?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest is inbound, due in Thursday-Saturday.


----------



## Pascal1973

Few leaks too....


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Sneak preview of my Shelby build...


----------



## BWG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13468106*
> Sneak preview of my Shelby build...


It would look better in Scarlet and Grey!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13468300*
> It would look better in Scarlet and Grey!


...have you seen the theme of my build









It's ok, I'll keep my blue and white, you can have the scarlet and gray


----------



## BWG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13468457*
> ...have you seen the theme of my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's ok, I'll keep my blue and white, you can have the scarlet and gray


Ok Ok, I only said that because you are a Michigan fan! LOL

I LLLLLLove the blue and white. Absolutely gorgeous!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13468620*
> Ok Ok, I only said that because you are a Michigan fan! LOL
> 
> I LLLLLLove the blue and white. Absolutely gorgeous!


Ohhh, THAT scarlet and grey, I thought you were talking about some weird car colors..

In that case, you can still keep the scarlet and grey! ...at the infancy of this build it was almost a Michigan build, but then I opted for Shelby, B/W, some car-themed accents and it went from there...


----------



## BWG

It is my favorite car, but it is also PSU colors. (No, not power supply, Penn State University) Haha!


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13468074*
> I think you have a little air in your loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;13468085*
> Few leaks too....


Lol! Yeah, a little & a few.









I just received moar parts. Unfortunately not my block, fans, kill coil, PtNuke, 90, & 45 degree fittings I was hoping would arrive early. Just a huge LED strip, and a Silverstone AP181 for cooling the VRM's, ram, & NB.

Oh well, they will be here tomorrow.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13468620*
> Ok Ok, I only said that because you are a Michigan fan! LOL
> 
> I LLLLLLove the blue and white. Absolutely gorgeous!


ROFL. THE Ohio State University?

Go Badgers.


----------



## BWG

O.
H.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Uw.


----------



## BWG

I like Wisconsin. I am not a hater. I cheered for them and Michigan in bowl games.


----------



## yancyv8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;13465372*
> I made a window in the sidepanel.The "panel-gpu-duct thingie" inside the case i made of plexiglass, bent it 90 degrees,and a bit of dremeling to make it fit. Friend of mine owns a sticker-shop, he plotted the corsair logo out of the sticker-foil.I put a glowpad behind the plex, so when the rig is powered, the corsair logo is lit white.It is quite hard to make a decent pic of that,i'm not much of a photographer.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the parralel setup of the gpu-blocks, because i use a cheap pump, i wanted less restriction, you can divide the restriction of the gpu-blocks by 4, just by setting them parralel instead of serial. Temperatures are pretty much the same for both cards, about 1 deg difference.


What is that cover you have over your hdd trays that has a corsair logo on it? I'm assuming its a mod.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13468695*
> It is my favorite car, but it is also PSU colors. (No, not power supply, Penn State University) Haha!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13470236*
> ROFL. THE Ohio State University?
> 
> Go Badgers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13470421*
> O.
> H.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13470488*
> Uw.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13470506*
> I like Wisconsin. I am not a hater. I cheered for them and Michigan in bowl games.


Let's just leave it at Go Blue, since we all know the Big Ten(12) is awesome









Wisconsin/PSU are tied as my 2nd favorite schools, but Michigan comes first.

...Now back to your regularly scheduled WC discussion...


----------



## Pascal1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yancyv8;13472524*
> What is that cover you have over your hdd trays that has a corsair logo on it? I'm assuming its a mod.
> 
> Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk


Read the text just above the pic......


----------



## hy897t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwg;13470421*
> o.
> H.


i
o
!


----------



## Unit_4

Here is my finished built. 800d.

This is my first ever build.
So be nice.








all the info came from this site so thanks.

Temps idle @ 21c CPU
Temps load @ 47/50c CPU

Gpus @ load 45/50c

Sorry about pics. There taken with iPhone.


----------



## antipesto93

Cpu @ 5.0ghz
GPU @ 900mhz

Cpu Load temp: 70c
GPU load temp: 50c

cost of loop: £100

love it


----------



## Pascal1973

Nice clean build!


----------



## superhead91

@Unit 4 ... looks good!







I really like the purple and blue color theme. It's nice to see colors other than red, blue, black, and white every once in a while.


----------



## KShirza1

@unit 4... Awesome obsidian!


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13477912*
> http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb420/Antipesto/IMG_20110512_161240.jpg
> http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb420/Antipesto/IMG_20110512_160937.jpg
> http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb420/Antipesto/IMG_20110512_161037.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb420/Antipesto/IMG_20110512_160455.jpg
> http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb420/Antipesto/IMG_20110512_160643.jpg
> http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb420/Antipesto/IMG_20110512_160443.jpg
> http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb420/Antipesto/IMG_20110512_160434.jpg
> 
> Cpu @ 5.0ghz
> GPU @ 900mhz
> 
> Cpu Load temp: 70c
> GPU load temp: 50c
> 
> cost of loop: £100
> 
> love it


looks awesome but just a question, why not enter the gpu block from the top instead of looping around to the bottom?


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;13479132*
> looks awesome but just a question, why not enter the gpu block from the top instead of looping around to the bottom?


Well, My compression fittings, If i try to screw them in on the top, they hit the backplate and PCB -
so the only way is if i get an extender to raise the connection, but that costs money, that i dont want to spend, and i would have to drain the loop, that i dont want to do ! Lol

But seriously, next time i create an order for some WC stuff i will buy a raiser / extension so that it fits


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13479160*
> Well, My compression fittings, If i try to screw them in on the top, they hit the backplate and PCB -
> so the only way is if i get an extender to raise the connection, but that costs money, that i dont want to spend, and i would have to drain the loop, that i dont want to do ! Lol
> 
> But seriously, next time i create an order for some WC stuff i will buy a raiser / extension so that it fits


ahh ok didn't realize that problem.


----------



## Unit_4

Thanks for the comments.








Makes it all worth while. Since the only people who have seen it I'n person is ME.


----------



## Bradford1040

I am looking at buying a 6 channel or 8 fan controller do not want fancy just rheostat type, I plan to take it out and drill holes in the top of the case to install it! My question is which one is worth a dam? I don't want to have to change it out a lot! I was looking at the sunbeam PL-RS-6, from what I understand it is the same as the Lian Li one just dose not have the same face plate. But as I plan to take that off anyway did not care who makes it just getting the cheaper one of apples to apples. I don't care which one I get a long as it is 30watt or better and worth while. I don't know anything about the brands on Fan Controllers as I have never used one, but with all the fans I have now I think I need one


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

lamptron fc-8 is about the best 8 channel one out there. 30 watts per channel and aluminum.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


lamptron fc-8 is about the best 8 channel one out there. 30 watts per channel and aluminum.


Ok so how about the one I picked out? Is that one ok? The lamptron 6 channel had bad reviews on newegg, but that is not the end all be all of reviews lol, I am more looking for a 6 but if the 8 will be better because of quality then I will get the 8, remember I am not using in the 5 1/4 bay nor am I even keeping it in the aluminum holder it comes in. I plan to remove it from there and drill it into the case on top! I even planed on drilling hols for the led indicators. Thought that would look cool, I was even toying with getting the one Lian Li one that has 4 or 5 led's per channel indicators. It is 50usd but well worth it (if it is worth it) and that again is my question, which of those should I not get if that would be easier?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

it's not a bad controller by any means, but there is a huge quality difference. It's awesome for the price, but there is no comparison. The FC-8 and fc-6 and some of the best out there, especially the material they're made with. The sunbeam has very thin metal while the lamptrons are much thicker and a better quality aluminum/ metal


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## BWG

Kevin, adding the 120 RAD improved my temps under load by 2C on my GPU and CPU under load with my fans at 1080RPM. 4C CPU 3C GPU with my fans at 1380RPM.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BWG*


Kevin, adding the 120 RAD improved my temps under load by 2C on my GPU and CPU under load with my fans at 1080RPM. 4C CPU 3C GPU with my fans at 1380RPM.


which 120 did you just install, I am putting in black Ice extreme cross flow 120


----------



## B-Roll

Built my first loop ever last week.

Before









Beginning

















Middle

















End

















Aftermath - don't ask, haha.

















:]


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Triangle

@B-Roll - Is that tubing that is towards the bottom of your loop blue or purple?


----------



## toddvj

Minor update to mine. Re-routed some tubing, still a few more tweaks to do...


----------



## B-Roll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13485770*
> @B-Roll - Is that tubing that is towards the bottom of your loop blue or purple?


The lighting in the picture makes it look purple but it's supposed to be blue. I wish I had gone with a lighter blue but oh well. :]


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B-Roll;13485871*
> The lighting in the picture makes it look purple but it's supposed to be blue. I wish I had gone with a lighter blue but oh well. :]


I dyed my tubing purple for an experiment.








I was just wondering...


----------



## GingerJohn

OK, so here is my current build. My first stab at modding a (very unsuitable) case for water cooling. The performance isn't great, she doesn't look stunning but she sure is quiet.



















*WC components:*
EK Supreme HF CPU block
EK 5850 FC GPU block
EK DCP 2.0 pump
Swiftech Micro res V2
XSPC RX120 + shroud
MCR120
Scythe GT AP-15s
All in a much mangled Antec Sonata Elite.

*Future build*
And here is my future plan. This is a fairly cheap upgrade (~$370) planned for when I get my first pay cheque (when I eventually find a job). Note that the components are not all what I will use, I just got the nearest thing from the 3D warehouse in Sketchup, too lazy to draw up the real things.

Not sure if the 120mm rad will fit there, but since I already have it I am not going to loose anything by trying it. I have also not quite decided how I am going to mount my pump just yet. As usual I will wait until I have the parts in front of me, then make something up.




























*WC components:*
EK Supreme HF CPU block
EK 5850 FC GPU block
Liang DDC-1T with XSPC top
Swiftech Micro res V2
MCR120
2 * MCR220
2 * Scythe GT AP-15s
2 * Scythe GT AP-16s (2150 RPM)
All in a CM 690 II basic case


----------



## musashin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn;13486447*
> *snip*
> All in a CM 690 II basic case


Oh man please do this it will be amazing. I expect the 120mm rad will fit there; I've seen it done before.


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


> *Future build*
> And here is my future plan. This is a fairly cheap upgrade (~$370) planned for when I get my first pay cheque (when I eventually find a job). Note that the components are not all what I will use, I just got the nearest thing from the 3D warehouse in Sketchup, too lazy to draw up the real things.
> 
> Not sure if the 120mm rad will fit there, but since I already have it I am not going to loose anything by trying it. I have also not quite decided how I am going to mount my pump just yet. As usual I will wait until I have the parts in front of me, then make something up.
> 
> *WC components:*
> EK Supreme HF CPU block
> EK 5850 FC GPU block
> Liang DDC-1T with XSPC top
> Swiftech Micro res V2
> MCR120
> 2 * MCR220
> 2 * Scythe GT AP-15s
> 2 * Scythe GT AP-16s (2150 RPM)
> All in a CM 690 II basic case


Upgrade looks great, You need an 800D for all those rads


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13486854*
> Upgrade looks great, You need an 800D for all those rads


there is more to life than the 800d lol, It is a great case but there are others out there that are the same size if not bigger. In fact the build look he has in the mock up looks great but it just never comes out the same when you put it into real life, (well some don't, there are some builds on here that defies nature) Nice mock up GingerJohn hope to see it done soon


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *musashin;13486727*
> Oh man please do this it will be amazing. I expect the 120mm rad will fit there; I've seen it done before.


Any chance you remember where? I had a quick search for pics when I was deciding on a case, but I can't remember seeing that. I'm not too bothered, like I said I already have the 120 rad so I don't loose out by trying.

*Edit:* Never mind, found an example on this very thread. I must have skipped over it last time I looked */edit*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13486854*
> Upgrade looks great, You need an 800D for all those rads


I do like the look of the 7/800D, sadly it won't fit under my desk and it a little too pricey for me. I also move around a lot so a mid tower, even a big mid tower, is preferable to a full tower.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13486898*
> there is more to life than the 800d lol, It is a great case but there are others out there that are the same size if not bigger. In fact the build look he has in the *mock up looks great but it just never comes out the same when you put it into real life*, (well some don't, there are some builds on here that defies nature) Nice mock up GingerJohn hope to see it done soon


Too true! Best laid plans and all that. Like I said about the pump, I prefer to have the parts in front of me before I make any final decisions. I hope to do it soon too, partly because it will mean finally getting a job after giving up my last one and moving to Canada from the UK; my savings have taken quite the hammering.

I will post a build log when it happens. Thanks for all the encouragement guys


----------



## ScurK

@ GingerJohn: I'm sorry to inform you that the swiftech microres will not fit where you want it. I had the same plan but when I got my stuff I realized that there was not enough room. I actually had a 5850 back in the day so I'm 100% certain. It won't fit there with my GTX 580 either. Sorry to inform you.

Perhaps you can find a workaround tho.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScurK;13487230*
> @ GingerJohn: I'm sorry to inform you that the swiftech microres will not fit where you want it. I had the same plan but when I got my stuff I realized that there was not enough room. I actually had a 5850 back in the day so I'm 100% certain. It won't fit there with my GTX 580 either. Sorry to inform you.
> 
> Perhaps you can find a workaround tho.


Damn, I thought that might be tight. The case model on Sketchup is a little out on that dimension, but I though I might be able to squeeze it in there from the measurements given by CM. Oh well, I'm sure I will find a way. How did you solve it? I want to avoid buying another res, cost is an issue at the moment, but I might admit defeat and end up with a bay res.

Thanks for the info, +rep


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascal1973;13467943*
> I promised a pic with logo lit, this is the best i could do....


You inspire me!


----------



## Darksoul844

it finally came but not all parts came but enough for me to start and finish 75%










































































































































and still not done i still got more things coming!


----------



## ScurK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn;13487265*
> How did you solve it? I want to avoid buying another res, cost is an issue at the moment, but I might admit defeat and end up with a bay res.


Hold your horses, ginger! Don't buy new stuff, just be inventive!









Here's a link to my post in the club. The first picture shows my solution!









Note: that is my old setup - all new parts and more tidied up my case. Still great for inspiration IMO.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## AoHxBram

Finaly i can join :

EK Supreme HF full Nickel
2x FC-EK6970v2 + backplate
Laing DDC1 600l\h pump
200mm Phobyarad
120mm Black Ice GTx
240mm Black Ice GTs (still awaiting it)
XSPC dualbay res ( small leak top right corner sucking water out when the pc shuts down).

pics :




running 1 graphic card atm due to an artifect issue on the other one (rma'd it)


----------



## BWG

B-Roll, will you come clean up my mess now?


----------



## nooisy

Here's my


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Rangerscott

Almost done.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated, once again


----------



## Bradford1040

and once again, I have a dumb question!!!

I am thinking of adding a third rad, I have the space in the case with out making it look to cluttered. My question is which rad is the best all around cooling and flow in the 120.3 size? Or should I not worry about flow and just add a second D5? I will have all 3 in one loop. The other two are black ice cross flow 120 and swiftech 240


----------



## Rangerscott

I believe the XSPC rads are low restricted and are better good with all fan speeds. Get the fatter RX model if you can fit it.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott;13496480*
> I believe the XSPC rads are low restricted and are better good with all fan speeds. Get the fatter RX model if you can fit it.


so I have been looking at everyone of the rads, is there anything really more to which than the name (of coarse the size matters) but say you had rad (X) and it was 120 x 120 x 40 and rad (Y) 120 x 120 x 50 and the rad (X) was the bigger name brand does that mean it is all in all better? And how can you find out if the flow is good or not? I never see any specs on that, but you guys in here always know.

I am trying to put together a system that all I need to do for upgrades is just change out the board and CPU and GC's but all else is future proofed. I don't know if that sounds dumb or not but that is my goal


----------



## Rangerscott

For flow rates and what not you just have to search for reviews.

When I was shopping, I looked at what the rad was made out of, how many passes, rows, and fins per square inch.

Most rads are brass core with copper fins. The XSPC says it's ALL copper construction. Copper>brass. On passes I just went with what I could find. Two pass seems to be the norm. Rows was was a semi hard info to find on some. I think 2 row is normal on these types of rads. Fins per square inch is up to you. Low count allow more air flow for slow-med fans but there is less surface area for the heat to dissipate from. High fin counts have more surface area for heat transfer but need med-high fan speeds. (This is debatable and I'll get to it in a sec).

I ended up choosing a Black Labs GTX 360 & 240 rad. They are 2 pass, 2 row, brass tubes/copperfins, 20 fins per square inch (double fins), and have good flow.

I use variable fans on my rads. Honestly I don't think the 20 FPI is restrictive to air flow. I can leave my fans on any speed and air just pours out. I have the 3 fans on my 360 half way turned up and I can kinda feel the breeze off of them sitting 4 ft away. When I crank them up to full its a freaking wind tunnel. LOL (Side case is off)

http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=11


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram;13489234*
> Finaly i can join :
> 
> pics :
> 
> ]
> 
> running 1 graphic card atm due to an artifect issue on the other one (rma'd it)


Who makes those fans?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13496237*
> and once again, I have a dumb question!!!
> 
> I am thinking of adding a third rad, I have the space in the case with out making it look to cluttered. My question is which rad is the best all around cooling and flow in the 120.3 size? Or should I not worry about flow and just add a second D5? I will have all 3 in one loop. The other two are black ice cross flow 120 and swiftech 240


Don't worry about flow, radiators are comparatively some of the least resistive parts in the loop. Multiple rads are no problem for a single D5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13496576*
> so I have been looking at everyone of the rads, is there anything really more to which than the name (of coarse the size matters) but say you had rad (X) and it was 120 x 120 x 40 and rad (Y) 120 x 120 x 50 and the rad (X) was the bigger name brand does that mean it is all in all better? And how can you find out if the flow is good or not? I never see any specs on that, but you guys in here always know.
> 
> I am trying to put together a system that all I need to do for upgrades is just change out the board and CPU and GC's but all else is future proofed. I don't know if that sounds dumb or not but that is my goal


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott;13496695*
> For flow rates and what not you just have to search for reviews.
> 
> When I was shopping, I looked at what the rad was made out of, how many passes, rows, and fins per square inch.
> 
> Most rads are brass core with copper fins. The XSPC says it's ALL copper construction. Copper>brass. On passes I just went with what I could find. Two pass seems to be the norm. Rows was was a semi hard info to find on some. I think 2 row is normal on these types of rads. Fins per square inch is up to you. Low count allow more air flow for slow-med fans but there is less surface area for the heat to dissipate from. High fin counts have more surface area for heat transfer but need med-high fan speeds. (This is debatable and I'll get to it in a sec).
> 
> I ended up choosing a Black Labs GTX 360 & 240 rad. They are 2 pass, 2 row, brass tubes/copperfins, 20 fins per square inch (double fins), and have good flow.
> 
> I use variable fans on my rads. Honestly I don't think the 20 FPI is restrictive to air flow. I can leave my fans on any speed and air just pours out. I have the 3 fans on my 360 half way turned up and I can kinda feel the breeze off of them sitting 4 ft away. When I crank them up to full its a freaking wind tunnel. LOL (Side case is off)
> 
> http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=11


Good stuff, I should add that the RX is 3 row, dual pass. With radiators the only real issue is what fans you want to use. High rpm/noise fans means you should go with a high FPI rad like the BI GTX, low speed/noise means you want low FPI like the RX (8fpi) or Swiftech(12FPI). I'd go for the RX if you can fit it, copper vs brass really doesn't matter much, but the extra row and low fin density are great for low speed/noise applications.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13496961*
> Don't worry about flow, radiators are comparatively some of the least resistive parts in the loop. Multiple rads are no problem for a single D5.
> 
> Good stuff, I should add that the RX is 3 row, dual pass. With radiators the only real issue is what fans you want to use. High rpm/noise fans means you should go with a high FPI rad like the BI GTX, low speed/noise means you want low FPI like the RX (8fpi) or Swiftech(12FPI). I'd go for the RX if you can fit it, copper vs brass really doesn't matter much, but the extra row and low fin density are great for low speed/noise applications.


Ok so I have some koolance 190 cfm fans and some kase 130 cfm fans and the CM Excalibur's 90 cfm fans which is the best for the black ice 120 x flow


----------



## Rangerscott

Row count can be controversial. Now I'm talking automotive here. I know someone is going to freak out when I mention a certain metal.

On auto rads you have brass/copper or aluminum (most are aluminum now). My vehicle comes stock with a 2 row brass/copper rad. I can buy custom rads that are all the exact same size but with more rows or different metals. Here's an example. So I currently have a 2 row brass/copper. I can buy a 3 row brass/copper that'll cool better. I can also buy a 2 row aluminum rad that'll cool just as good as the 3 row brass/copper if not better. Why? Surface area. Aluminum is stronger than brass so the rows are bigger and allow for more surface area. Surface area is probably No1 on rad importance.

Now I don't have a scientist standing next to more working with space age tech. I'm just going by what auto experts and people that have dealt with this scenario and what they've had to say.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott;13497033*
> Row count can be controversial. Now I'm talking automotive here. I know someone is going to freak out when I mention a certain metal.
> 
> On auto rads you have brass/copper or aluminum (most are aluminum now). My vehicle comes stock with a 2 row brass/copper rad. I can buy custom rads that are all the exact same size but with more rows or different metals. Here's an example. So I currently have a 2 row brass/copper. I can buy a 3 row brass/copper that'll cool better. I can also buy a 2 row aluminum rad that'll cool just as good as the 3 row brass/copper if not better. Why? Surface area. Aluminum is stronger than brass so the rows are bigger and allow for more surface area. Surface area is probably No1 on rad importance.
> 
> Now I don't have a scientist standing next to more working with space age tech. I'm just going by what auto experts and people that have dealt with this scenario and what they've had to say.


I totally understand that and agree!! 100% I build hot-rods and have many alum. rads but I did not know how well things work with computers as the environment is way different, I also have been told not to use alum. in my system (not that I was told 100% don't use, just frowned upon) do to all kinds of past problems. I even have two 480 alum koolance rads that I will not use because of corrosion build up, but I do agree they do cool much better (alum. that is) but I still don't get the fin thing how is less better? would not more be better for cooling or did I miss something?


----------



## Rangerscott

It's preference. A lot of people like quite PC's. I use headphones so I don't mind. Having a cooler system is a big part of going with water but I also pay attention temps "holding" temps. Having a cpu hold 56c with water is better than having an air cooler and seeing the temps just keep rising.

I know there are good air coolers but water cooling is nice and consistent. I'm now all water cooling and love how my vid cards hold a nice 50ish C temp while gaming instead of 100% fan and up to 75c.

As you already know. You can mix metals if you want. Just make sure to use the correct coolant and inhibitors. Too many people on here freak out about it. I've had two aluminum engines in my vehicle with a brass/copper rad and heater core with no problems. It's just up to you.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

I spent a few hours today and added my spare RX360 to my TJ07. Still needs sleeving and cable management done properly, but not too bad considering no modding was done to the case, its running a 480, 360 and 240 radiator and I'm still trying to bleed the loop.

I need to trim the front bay covers to cover the HD's, the rubber mounting system is blocking thats why no bay covers for now.

Heres some quick random shots.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray;13496859*
> Who makes those fans?


http://www.coolink-europe.com/en/categories/23_29.html

Coolink, i've got the 120p Pwm versions


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Boyboyd

My first proper watercooling loop. I seem to have accidentally gotten an orange and blue theme going.





I'm already thinking about getting another 240 rad or upgrading to a 480. I think i was expecting too much from a 240 rad.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13502673*
> I'm already thinking about getting another 240 rad or upgrading to a 480. I think i was expecting too much from a 240 rad.


A 240mm rad should be plenty to cool a CPU only loop.


----------



## Boyboyd

That's what i thought. Especially with 2 delta fans :\

It's just my CPU. And it loads at 68 degrees peak on 5.2GHz with 1.445v. Have you got any tips? I've re-mounted 3 times and they've all been near-perfect each time. I've checked that my pump is working properly, there are no kinks. and i flushed the radiator out before.


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13502673*
> My first proper watercooling loop. I seem to have accidentally gotten an orange and blue theme going.
> 
> I'm already thinking about getting another 240 rad or upgrading to a 480. I think i was expecting too much from a 240 rad.


As a rough guide
I have a GTX 480 @ 900mhz
and a 2500k @ 5ghz 1.4v

and with a 360 radiator (gt 360, not as good as an RX360) with silent push pull fans i get:

70c load cpu
55c load gpu
(if both are loaded at the same time)
(Same Wb and pump as you i think)
so a high performance, or even a standard performance ( RX or RS) 360mm radiator will be fine, Two RX240's would be even better..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13502872*
> That's what i thought. Especially with 2 delta fans :\
> 
> It's just my CPU. And it loads at 68 degrees peak on 5.2GHz with 1.445v. Have you got any tips? I've re-mounted 3 times and they've all been near-perfect each time. I've checked that my pump is working properly, there are no kinks. and i flushed the radiator out before.


Do the speakers actually work or are they exclusively on computer-stand duty?


----------



## Boyboyd

They weren't plugged in, just a fancy stand.

I've removed them now. Just sitting on the desk atm. Someone alerted me to the fact that speakers have powerful magnets in them.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13503006*
> They weren't plugged in, just a fancy stand.
> 
> I've removed them now. Just sitting on the desk atm. Someone alerted me to the fact that speakers have powerful magnets in them.


That they do...


----------



## masonkian




----------



## Boyboyd

That tubing looks huge. Is that 1/2"?


----------



## antipesto93

Looks like 1/2"
either that or its got some major kinks in it!

You should get some backplates for those 480's !


----------



## masonkian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13504629*
> That tubing looks huge. Is that 1/2"?


yes its 1/2" ID 3/4" OD

and no kinks


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Thick tubes are thick.


----------



## antipesto93

Cant explain this, but i found a spider in my res today
wonder how long its been in there!


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13504670*
> Cant explain this, but i found a spider in my res today
> wonder how long its been in there!


lmao.

Needs more biocide.


----------



## masonkian

indeed yes backplates would look nice


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13504670*
> Cant explain this, but i found a spider in my res today
> wonder how long its been in there!


I hate spiders and ticks and anything that sucks blood!!!! I they are creepy and they always leave a welt or some dam thing that itches. so way to go on trapping and killing the spider mite just get me the same res.


----------



## mm67

My secondary system


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13504670*
> Cant explain this, but i found a spider in my res today
> wonder how long its been in there!


Probably from the radiator not being rinsed before installation. Factory spider? LoL


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

I got a question, does anyone know if anyone built a rig with the 80.2 rads up top, kinda thinking of using 3 or 4 of them and then having 6 or 8 fans 80mm on the top just for a different look. I see every one using 120mm and 140mm but no 92 or 80mm's. What do you guys think? or has it been done?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13505453*
> I got a question, does anyone know if anyone built a rig with the 80.2 rads up top, kinda thinking of using 3 or 4 of them and then having 6 or 8 fans 80mm on the top just for a different look. I see every one using 120mm and 140mm but no 92 or 80mm's. What do you guys think? or has it been done?


I've seen a build with a 92.2 rad in it, but not 80mm. I don't think they are popular because 80mm fans have to spin much faster then 120mm+ fans to move the same amount of air, which would get loud.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;13505559*
> I've seen a build with a 92.2 rad in it, but not 80mm. I don't think they are popular because 80mm fans have to spin much faster then 120mm+ fans to move the same amount of air, which would get loud.


I understand that, but I am thinking with 4 of those up top they would not need as much air flow plus would it look cool having 8 fan grills mesh style instead of 3? and if you ever notice they make a lot more options for the 80mm fans. so besides noise would it look good?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13505608*
> I understand that, but I am thinking with 4 of those up top they would not need as much air flow plus would it look cool having 8 fan grills mesh style instead of 3? and if you ever notice they make a lot more options for the 80mm fans. so besides noise would it look good?


Hard to say if it would look good, or not, without seeing it







. If done right it could look







.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;13505677*
> Hard to say if it would look good, or not, without seeing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If done right it could look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


well I was planing on using These or the black version and then hard lining them together with like bitpower or koolance sli fittings. cause of there small size they will fit long way on case width, the Lian Li case I have has the room on top for extra PSU so fans a rads can tuck up in there plus using acrylic I can make a cover to hide them even more if needed. do you get my picture?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13505812*
> well I was planing on using These or the black version and then hard lining them together with like bitpower or koolance sli fittings. cause of there small size they will fit long way on case width, the Lian Li case I have has the room on top for extra PSU so fans a rads can tuck up in there plus using acrylic I can make a cover to hide them even more if needed. do you get my picture?


Didn't you get a Silverstone case too? I remember reading that somewhere


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;13505960*
> Didn't you get a Silverstone case too? I remember reading that somewhere


yup that is the LAN (TJ-10 nvidia case) and the one in my sig also are both new


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13505970*
> yup that is the LAN (TJ-10 nvidia case) and the one in my sig also are both new


Right on







.

That mesh looks slightly restrictive in the airflow department, but it could look good if, once again, done right







.


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13498443*


Nice rig!









1000th post, no way it wasn't going to be in this thread.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

:sigh:

Toad, you could have fit two 240mm rads on the inside of your case (top and back), and not have to go to the lengths that you did to get that eyesore of a 360mm rad hanging off the back of your case.


----------



## Boyboyd

It's the pursuit of performance. Not the pursuit of shiny things.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13506611*
> It's the pursuit of performance. Not the pursuit of shiny things.


Couldn't agree more Moss, but I do like my performance items to shine plenty







.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13506568*
> :sigh:
> 
> Toad, you could have fit two 240mm rads on the inside of your case (top and back), and not have to go to the lengths that you did to get that eyesore of a 360mm rad hanging off the back of your case.


XSPC 360 rads dont fit up top im afraid







, it also dropped my load temps by 5c


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13506758*
> XSPC 360 rads dont fit up top im afraid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it also dropped my load temps by 5c


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13506568*
> :sigh:
> 
> Toad, you could have fit *two 240mm rads on the inside of your case (top and back)*, and not have to go to the lengths that you did to get that eyesore of a 360mm rad hanging off the back of your case.


Just saying, not like you've broken any rules of the universe, or anything.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Yea thanks, A 240 wont fit at the inside back either, they are 92mm fan spacings. There's only so much one can stuff inside a tj07 lol.


----------



## Havoknova

before:










after:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13506859*
> Yea thanks, A 240 wont fit at the inside back either, they are 92mm fan spacings. There's only so much one can stuff inside a tj07 lol.


Nothing a little Dremel can't fix.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13507530*
> Nothing a little Dremel can't fix.


No, its physically impossible. the IO shield is blocking lol

The only other options are to mount a thin 240 rad at the top or a fatter one in the drive bays. I'm going for performance not so much care about how it looks.


----------



## KShirza1

Update... Ready for Lanfest


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13508265*
> No, its physically impossible. the IO shield is blocking lol
> 
> The only other options are to mount a thin 240 rad at the top or a fatter one in the drive bays. I'm going for performance not so much care about how it looks.


not that you want to, but you do know they make a twin 92mm rad right!


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13508680*
> not that you want to, but you do know they make a twin 92mm rad right!


Indeed, but no point. it aint gunna be better than a 360 rad lol. I still have spare 280, 140 and 120 rad sitting here, im contemplating stuffing the 120 in the drive bays....


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13508741*
> Indeed, but no point. it aint gunna be better than a 360 rad lol. I still have spare 280, 140 and 120 rad sitting here, im contemplating stuffing the 120 in the drive bays....


ok just thought I would mention it

PS off topic PSN is up in virginia


----------



## Rystofer

Well here are a few initial shots of the rig!


----------



## UrbanSmooth

@KShirza1

You forgot to water cool your PSU.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13509071*
> @KShirza1
> 
> You forgot to water cool your PSU.


And the sound card


----------



## Bradford1040

god when is the page going to switch over? even with T1 connection it is taking a minute or so to load the page


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13509080*
> And the sound card


and nic!


----------



## lees800

*From this:*





*To this:*






About 95% done with sleeving (usb headers, firewire, pwr/pwr led/hd activity individually sleeved, sata cables, cathodes, etc). I grouped the fans into two different molex plugs (top 4 and front 3).



Taking the fill tube, drain tube, and RAD intake all to the back of the case. Also moving the pump in the bottom HD rack. I used a piece of thick foam to dampen noise and vibration and the bottom 120mm fan to keep it nice and cool. Surprisingly enough, the 3/4 OD tubing doesn't really get touched by the back panel. I used anti-kink just in case, but no worries there.



Even though the rear cable management looks sort of cramped and jumbled together, it really isn't. Considering there are 5 HDDs, 7 fans, stealth drive, 3 cathodes, front IO, and tubing..it's the best I could work out (so far)









PS..today's update was..

I went from cathodes to LEDs











A simple switch installed on the back..



A quick and easy LED mod to the back of the ram cooler. This one isn't switched, but just gives a subtle glow when the rest are turned off.



..Sorry for the bad pics. When i'm done, I am going to take some deserving shots..still have a ways to go tho


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Wow, tubing routed behind the mobo tray! Haven't seen that before.

Bravo, sir!


----------



## antipesto93

Just found this on google images!


----------



## Rystofer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13509071*
> @KShirza1
> 
> You forgot to water cool your PSU.


Thats next but I am going to probably upgrade my vid card to a ATI 6900 series. So I want to get this system working properly. Unfortunately I just noticed yesterday that the impellor on my res was not working properly and it needs to go back...Frustrating...It either slipped the shaft or something I may go with separates. Pump and reservoir...We'll see...I really think a north bridge cooler will be more important for now. Its hovering at 70°


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rystofer;13508886*
> Well here are a few initial shots of the rig!
> 
> ***snip***


congrats, you are member #800

how long do y'all think it will take to get to 1000?







(also, 2,000,000 views is coming pretty quick)


----------



## sprower

@lees800 Teh Hawaiian Punch! Noooooooooooooes! Ah well.. looking great anyway. I'm really liking the led on the ram cooler.


----------



## 12Cores

Current build finally complete, cannot wait to see the reviews on bulldozer next month


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## KShirza1

ready for sleeving and liquid


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;13514942*
> ready for sleeving and liquid
> *snip*


Hawt.


----------



## lees800

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


@lees800 Teh Hawaiian Punch! Noooooooooooooes! Ah well.. looking great anyway. I'm really liking the led on the ram cooler.










LMAO yeah the hawaiian punch had to go! In 3 days the Fluid XP Nano made all my tubing turn hazy and was blocking the flow like crazy...I like the XP Ext that im using now almost as much as distilled.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antipesto93*


Just found this on google images!










Heh, that's interesting, but, really, this is where SSDs should be used. Less heat, less power consumption, and no need to liquid cool.


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


Heh, that's interesting, but, really, this is where SSDs should be used. Less heat, less power consumption, and no need to liquid cool.


That's old Koolance watercooling there so I'm guessing the pic has some age on it.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Just saying.


----------



## antipesto93

hmm wonder if you can work out how old the pic is








its got sata hard drives?


----------



## OmegaNemesis28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13516100*
> hmm wonder if you can work out how old the pic is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its got sata hard drives?


The Koolance blocks between each hard drive is rather old stuff. Back when I first started in computers that was out. So I'd estimate between 2007-2008.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13516100*
> hmm wonder if you can work out how old the pic is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its got sata hard drives?


See? This is why I made the recommendation for SSDs, you got people interested in this, LOL!


----------



## thrasherht

I just ordered me some clear primochill 7/16in tubing. I also picked up some UV green dye to add to my water for the computer EXPO that my rig is going to be in.

I am interested what it will end up looking like.


----------



## Rystofer

Well I just love havin the weekend off...I'm getting sorta comfortable for now just need to crank it up but first I'd like to share a few pics I shot during a thunderstorm this afternoon. Please tell me what you think...









































































I love painting with a "fricken laser beam" now come give daddy a hug!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rystofer;13516589*
> Well I just love havin the weekend off...I'm getting sorta comfortable for now just need to crank it up but first I'd like to share a few pics I shot during a thunderstorm this afternoon. Please tell me what you think...
> 
> I love painting with a "fricken laser beam" now come give daddy a hug!


Nice, I see that its raining up there to huh?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;13514942*
> ready for sleeving and liquid


Hey! Our cases are cousins!


----------



## pcnoob1

I like your rig^
I like it alot


----------



## eloverton2

hey guys, i just built my first watercooled rig about 6 months ago, and am getting the itch to take the next step and start a modding and painting case project this summer. any suggestions on what tools i need to get to get started? thanks -elo


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcnoob1;13517445*
> I like your rig^
> I like it alot


Show me another enthusiast using a 3 x 140mm radiator to cool a mini-itx system... and I'll give you a dollar.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## oc_geek

Here is my finished LittleDevil PC-V8 based system













































more pics and build up work in my log


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Very nice cable management.

Tubing looks like it can be optimized, though.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Rystofer

Sweet, I agree with Urbansmooth, awesome cable management...


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;13517643*
> Show me another enthusiast using a 3 x 140mm radiator to cool a mini-itx system... and I'll give you a dollar.


Hence why I like it. Its ridiculous and functional. Only thing I would add is some quick disconnects.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13517903*
> Very nice cable management.
> 
> Tubing looks like it can be optimized, though.


Thanks Urban









Look, on tubing i though a lot before going down this direction (i had to move pumps even when i get there) and what i can tell is that with 3x360 rads, CPU, 2xGPU and real estate constraints in the bottom compartment (it's quite tight in there for fittings) i had few options

but if u have any suggest feel welcome









Cheers


----------



## masonkian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13522668*
> Thanks Urban
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look, on tubing i though a lot before going down this direction (i had to move pumps even when i get there) and what i can tell is that with 3x360 rads, CPU, 2xGPU and real estate constraints in the bottom compartment (it's quite tight in there for fittings) i had few options
> 
> but if u have any suggest feel welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


yeh looks very nice


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13517799*
> Here is my finished LittleDevil PC-V8 based system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics and build up work in my log


How is the build quality on that case? I mean is it worth 700usd? I have been looking at the reverse atx version as the board is upside down the GPU full waterblocks would be seen very nicely. I just am not sure about paying 700usd on it, thinking a CL or MM would be a better as they are a little cheaper out the gate, or is there a better deal on theses somewhere?

BTW you should get this for the window!
Or this one looks to be more computer case look friendly


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13523418*
> How is the build quality on that case? I mean is it worth 700usd? I have been looking at the reverse atx version as the board is upside down the GPU full waterblocks would be seen very nicely. I just am not sure about paying 700usd on it, thinking a CL or MM would be a better as they are a little cheaper out the gate, or is there a better deal on theses somewhere?


Build quality is simply excellent. I owned many cases so far and this is better, no discussion.
Aluminum is a bit thin feeling at first (i think it is 2mm on walls and 1mm on the HD cover plate). Dremel it takes some effort...
Once everithing is equipped you can feel it flex a bit under the weight. Once assembled it becomes a rock (that's reason for so many skrews Ales put around







)

Price wise LD is at par with either the two you mention (beeing MM pretty aged and basic engineering in my modest view).
I had looked to the CL at first myself before going to the LD

Bottom line: I think the (bad) deal comes when shipping fees are added to the bill which results in CL beeing better option for US based folks and LD for EU.
If/when EU goes up in xch rate than CL becomes a suitable option either if you can afford another 10% roughtly over the LD.

That apart it is very good case (light at an extent) and i prefer this "tall" line rather than the "Frigidaire" form factor of the CL (pardon me no offense)

That said all those are great cases grown in OCN considering many feedbacks and with plenty of room for either components and imagination...


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13523719*
> Build quality is simply excellent. I owned many cases so far and this is better, no discussion.
> Aluminum is a bit thin feeling at first (i think it is 2mm on walls and 1mm on the HD cover plate). Dremel it takes some effort...
> Once everithing is equipped you can feel it flex a bit under the weight. Once assembled it becomes a rock (that's reason for so many skrews Ales put around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Price wise LD is at par with either the two you mention (beeing MM pretty aged and basic engineering in my modest view).
> I had looked to the CL at first myself before going to the LD
> 
> Bottom line: I think the (bad) deal comes when shipping fees are added to the bill which results in CL beeing better option for US based folks and LD for EU.
> If/when EU goes up in xch rate than CL becomes a suitable option either if you can afford another 10% roughtly over the LD.
> 
> That apart it is very good case (light at an extent) and i prefer this "tall" line rather than the "Frigidaire" form factor of the CL (pardon me no offense)
> 
> That said all those are great cases grown in OCN considering many feedbacks and with plenty of room for either components and imagination...


Thank you, I like the tall part myself! I don't understand why it seems as the case fad has become big but shorter in height, I have looked at DD and they seem to be the only tall case but not my cup of tea. I really have nothing but good things to say about all the case builders out there (on custom cases as we are talking about) That is why I am having such a hard time chosen the case for this new build! I want to have it all!!! and not one case has won me over yet! I have a good imagination, but the builds on here help me see more options and make it harder sometimes to chose lol. I once again thank you for info! I also gave two links in last post I think they would look good ether in or on your case, what do you think? the second one scroll down it is available in many colors


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13510256*
> Wow, tubing routed behind the mobo tray! Haven't seen that before.
> 
> Bravo, sir!










Clearly someone wasn't paying attention to my first 800D iteration (pre Privateer)







It looks really good in his case, for me I wound up axing it because I felt it was too much extra tubing and I had to change it when I changed my rad setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;13517424*
> Hey! Our cases are cousins!
> 
> *pics*


That is such a gorgeous rig, yours is one of my favorite test benches. Generally I don't like benches because they're so functional that there is rarely any attention paid to aesthetics, but you really outdid yourself








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13523719*
> That apart it is very good case (light at an extent) and i prefer this "tall" line rather than the "Frigidaire" form factor of the CL (pardon me no offense)


I agree, I decided to mod my 800D instead of putting the money towards a CL build because of the form factor- if CL ever makes a Full Tower ATX/HPTX/XL-ATX etc I will be in line for one


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13523950*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clearly someone wasn't paying attention to my first 800D iteration (pre Privateer)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks really good in his case, for me I wound up axing it because I felt it was too much extra tubing and I had to change it when I changed my rad setup.
> 
> That is such a gorgeous rig, yours is one of my favorite test benches. Generally I don't like benches because they're so functional that there is rarely any attention paid to aesthetics, but you really outdid yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree, I decided to mod my 800D instead of putting the money towards a CL build because of the form factor- if CL ever makes a Full Tower ATX/HPTX/XL-ATX etc I will be in line for one


I hope the case manufactures look at this site lol! I think there are not enough tall cases to chose from!

Also don't know if I asked you this, but how well is the 775 board holding up to gaming, with the 570's? I have three 260 216's in my XfX 790I and thinking of a upgrade


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13524010*
> I hope the case manufactures look at this site lol! I think there are not enough tall cases to chose from!
> 
> Also don't know if I asked you this, but how well is the 775 board holding up to gaming, with the 570's? I have three 260 216's in my XfX 790I and thinking of a upgrade


I've got a single 570, and an 8800GTS 512 that both fold, the 570 takes care of business. My desktop is 2560x1024, but I only game on 1 screen so I'm not a terribly demanding gamer. The 775 quad holds up just fine for me, I'll upgrade eventually, but I'm honestly more interested in the cooling/case hardware side and modding that stuff, the electronic parts aren't as interesting to me. As long as they do what I need them too then I'm happy. But I'll still have an excessive WC loop or modded case


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13523891*
> Thank you, I like the tall part myself! I don't understand why it seems as the case fad has become big but shorter in height, I have looked at DD and they seem to be the only tall case but not my cup of tea. I really have nothing but good things to say about all the case builders out there (on custom cases as we are talking about) That is why I am having such a hard time chosen the case for this new build! I want to have it all!!! and not one case has won me over yet! I have a good imagination, but the builds on here help me see more options and make it harder sometimes to chose lol. I once again thank you for info! I also gave two links in last post I think they would look good ether in or on your case, what do you think? the second one scroll down it is available in many colors


yeah i looked at those but i think i'll pass...hehe









best


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13523891*
> Thank you, I like the tall part myself! I don't understand why it seems as the case fad has become big but shorter in height, I have looked at DD and they seem to be the only tall case but not my cup of tea. I really have nothing but good things to say about all the case builders out there (on custom cases as we are talking about) That is why I am having such a hard time chosen the case for this new build! I want to have it all!!! and not one case has won me over yet! I have a good imagination, but the builds on here help me see more options and make it harder sometimes to chose lol. I once again thank you for info! I also gave two links in last post I think they would look good ether in or on your case, what do you think? the second one scroll down it is available in many colors


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13524010*
> I hope the case manufactures look at this site lol! I think there are not enough tall cases to chose from!
> 
> Also don't know if I asked you this, but how well is the 775 board holding up to gaming, with the 570's? I have three 260 216's in my XfX 790I and thinking of a upgrade


There really aren't enough rall cases out there that are higher end. Lian li is good, but not quite the same quality as MM, CL, LD, and DD. The Tower 29 is really the only tall one out there. The only reason I bought the DW tower 29 is that I can fit 3x 560s and 2x 280s in it. If CL or MM made a case that could house all of that I'd be right on it. The tower 29 and dw tower 29 are really the only DD cases I like. The grills on all of the others are just ugly even tho you can have them removed. There also really aren't any grills that look good on them either.


----------



## R3apR369

Wish I had a better camera, heh. Anyways! This here is my first water-cooled pc. =) I plan on getting the GTX 480 under water as soon as cash flow is good.
Funny how so much blue came out, must be because of the Mobo LED's. In person, the case is more of a White/Black with a hint of Blue.

So, what do ya'll think?


----------



## masonkian

looks good

defo get the 480 under water makes such a difference


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonkian;13529604*
> *defo get the 480 under water makes such a difference*


Amen to that.

Great simplistic tubing going on here!


----------



## McDown

Hey paisanos! I haven't posted in this thread for a while and I'm glad it's still going strong








Here some fresh photos with my new DD Delrin Bay Res




































View attachment 210932
View attachment 210933
View attachment 210934


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3apR369;13529554*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, what do ya'll think?


Is it just me or have those clamps on the pump completely missed the barbs?

Looks nice, I really like the look of 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs. To me it looks better than compression fittings.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown;13531430*
> Hey paisanos! I haven't posted in this thread for a while and I'm glad it's still going strong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some fresh photos with my new DD Delrin Bay Res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *pics*


Looks awesome! I went with the Koolance RP452x2 only because I wanted dual D5... That DD one looks sweet though!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn;13532208*
> Is it just me or have those clamps on the pump completely missed the barbs?
> 
> Looks nice, I really like the look of 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs. To me it looks better than compression fittings.


Looks like they're misplaced to me too, unless it's to prevent tubing collapse there..?









I agree with you on the tubing though, I had compressions and gave them up, 7/16" stretched looks much cleaner to me...


----------



## R3apR369

Yeah, you got me. Lol. The clamps don't seem to wanna spread out enough to get over the Barb; I mean it's there, but just barely. I'll give it a look see again later tomorrow, lol. Might just need some more 'elbow grease' to get the clamps to stretch.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown;13531430*
> Hey paisanos! I haven't posted in this thread for a while and I'm glad it's still going strong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some fresh photos with my new DD Delrin Bay Res


I have to say as many 800D's keep popping up but they all really look so good!!! Great build McDown! I have gone back and looked at so many 800's in the post's and not one looked bad, there is way to many but still, dam they all come out so dam nice


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


I have to say as many 800D's keep popping up but they all really look so good!!! Great build McDown! I have gone back and looked at so many 800's in the post's and not one looked bad, there is way to many but still, dam they all come out so dam nice


I thought the same thing. I want one now, lol.


----------



## munaim1

This is my CPU to GPU block Mod, thought i'd share with you guys on this thread.









My first card has got the mcw60 on it which you can see in my project build. The second card will have the apogee on it, it's ready to go in my loop.

Here's some pics for you guys, hope you enjoy









the stuff I used: sekesui thermal tape, couple of 80mm Zalman F1 fans and some old heatsinks.

Took the original plate off and modded another (spare mcw60 G200 Plate I think) that I had. Heatsink of the Apogee GT slightly bigger than the GPU which is good.




































































































If you look at how I did my first card, I attached two 40mm fans, I actually took them off and attached a single 80mm fan. I bought 2 80mm Zalaman F1 fans that are pretty good.

By the way I know it looks ugly as hell, but actually because im using the second slot on my mobo you can't really tell





































As you can see I had to make a couple of changes. The grey heatsinks were just too high to mount the fan.

Installed the card, redid my entire loop









Suprising results.

1st card Swiftech MCW60 idles - 27/26c

2nd card Apogee GT idels - 22/23c

Here are my temps with OCCT for a couple mins.










9c difference between the two blocks














I would say job well done


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


This is my CPU to GPU block Mod, thought i'd share with you guys on this thread.









As you can see I had to make a couple of changes. The grey heatsinks were just too high to mount the fan.

Installed the card, redid my entire loop









Suprising results.

1st card Swiftech MCW60 idles - 27/26c

2nd card Apogee GT idels - 22/23c

9c difference between the two blocks














I would say job well done










Cool experiment!


----------



## masonkian

good results there m8

nothing more satisfying that a good mod like that


----------



## munaim1

Thanks guys, it was suprising how well it did in comaprison with a dedicated gpu block.
9c is quite a bit.


----------



## masonkian

good cards them aswell

are you able to push them more ?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


*pictures*



A 120 radiator for CPU and GPU? Is it not a little small?


----------



## Bradford1040

holly poop! that case is only like 140usd that thing looks great! how heavy is it?


----------



## bundymania

~ 18kg

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=54

@saint: It´s an 140mm rad and there will be a second rad in this case


----------



## masonkian

can you fit 2x240mm rads in it ?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13536240*
> ~ 18kg
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=54
> 
> @saint: It´s an 140mm rad and there will be a second rad in this case


how is the door thing? I seen it only opens up like half way or something?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13536240*
> ~ 18kg
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=54
> 
> @saint: It´s an 140mm rad and there will be a second rad in this case


Oh man. I can get that for £77.

I may have found my next case.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonkian;13536263*
> can you fit 2x240mm rads in it ?


yes, when you remove the hdd cage in the ground and mod. some holes in the bottom or use spacers and the other rad fits in the top. the only thing that i miss, is a build in fangrill, like the corsair 800d has in the top. besides that, it´s a nice case for a very good price ! 120 euro here in germany.


----------



## RushMore1205

that case is so freaking huge, WOW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13517799*
> Here is my finished LittleDevil PC-V8 based system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics and build up work in my log


----------



## Bradford1040

ok I just got a big order in! I am not happy with PPCS on there sleeve's on there wires! I ordered some things and figured I would give them a shot and had them do it and NZXT vs PPCS well no comparison NZXT wins! I would understand if it was cheaper or if they had different levels of there work but if you are ever going to build and looking for clean wiring that is not he route to go! I think I have made my point.

Sorry about the rant, now I got everything in and will start building today the Lian Li sig rig do over, hoping that I make my system as good looking as some on here, now this is my first mod job as well as my second water cooling job first was when I posted the HAF 922 on here and after I did there were a few 800D's and MM cases that mad mine look,,, well real bad!!! I will do my best to take pictures as I do things, is there any hints on picture taking for builds? I see most take there rig out and all the monitors and keyboards and stuff are disconnected, and I only have my HTC 4G evo 8 Mega pixel camera so please if there is anything that would help with the build log as far as pictures go give me advise


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13537911*
> I will do my best to take pictures as I do things, is there any hints on picture taking for builds? I see most take there rig out and all the monitors and keyboards and stuff are disconnected, and I only have my HTC 4G evo 8 Mega pixel camera so please if there is anything that would help with the build log as far as pictures go give me advise


Take a look at this thread: http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/912437-how-photograph-your-rig-updated.html


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R;13538289*
> Take a look at this thread: http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/912437-how-photograph-your-rig-updated.html


Thanks! I did a search but I guest did not put in the right things lol


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Might as well post up my toy. I had built a watercooled mac back in the day (it was an early one, a beige G3 motherboard with a G4 cpu upgrade that happened to have a rotary switch to pick the correct multiplier, which I chose to use for overclocking), but I don't have any usable photos. That got me started with koolance. I liked their stuff enough that I still play with it:



















It's "only" a 400W rated cooling system (80mm fans, 1/4"ID tubing), but it manages to keep the hottest core at around 50C while folding 24/7 and still keeping the fans at idle speed. If it's in a room over 80F, the fans start to make some noise.

You might notice the obvious age of this case. It's old, and the watercooling system has seen numerous CPU/MB combinations come and go. It's also been moved in a car over 6,000 miles (a few cross country moves / trips) while fully assembled, and been to numerous lan parties, all without leaking.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;13538536*
> 
> You might notice the obvious age of this case. It's old, and the watercooling system has seen numerous CPU/MB combinations come and go. It's also been moved in a car over 6,000 miles while fully assembled, and been to numerous lan parties, all without leaking.


nice, I shipped a case with a 1/2" water loop in it to Florida(live in Oregon) full of water and the guy said it never leaked... the day he emailed me and said everything was perfect I almost couldn't sleep.

That case is old school. I have had to many of them, again nice rig

Crucial AX850 ???


----------



## fullofdet

some really good rigs on here wow


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;13538627*
> That case is old school. I have had to many of them, again nice rig
> 
> Crucial AX850 ???


It is old school. If the pumps ever die, I'll replace the shroud unit with a 3x 120mm fan/rad setup, but until then, I'll keep getting my monies worth out of it.

As for the AX 850, I just built a server and moved my truepower trio 650 into it (I trust it, I don't really trust my bench supply: a smartpower 2.0 500). I needed to put something in to this box, and since I want to throw 6950s at it (planning on xfire, and possibly eyefinity, and the old supply only had 2x 6 pin pcie) I went big.

I picked the supply mostly because the reviews I've read are all stellar (efficiency is great, super clean DC output), and it's modular. It's much cleaner looking without the rat's nest that I've only partially cleaned up. I also run distributed computing apps 24/7 on both the gpu and the cpu, so a reliable PSU is a must, even if the wattage is a bit nutty for what's in it now. Don't forget, this case started with a first gen P4. I try to limit myself to one new component a month to keep the true cost less obvious to my wallet.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;13538863*
> It is old school. If the pumps ever die, I'll replace the shroud unit with a 3x 120mm fan/rad setup, but until then, I'll keep getting my monies worth out of it.
> 
> As for the AX 850, I just built a server and moved my truepower trio 650 into it (I trust it, I don't really trust my bench supply: a smartpower 2.0 500). I needed to put something in to this box, and since I want to throw 6950s at it (planning on xfire, and possibly eyefinity, and the old supply only had 2x 6 pin pcie) I went big.
> 
> I picked the supply mostly because the reviews I've read are all stellar (efficiency is great, super clean DC output), and it's modular. It's much cleaner looking without the rat's nest that I've only partially cleaned up. I also run distributed computing apps 24/7 on both the gpu and the cpu, so a reliable PSU is a must, even if the wattage is a bit nutty for what's in it now. Don't forget, this case started with a first gen P4. I try to limit myself to one new component a month to keep the true cost less obvious to my wallet.


I think he meant it's Corsair not Crucial as you put in the sig...
lol


----------



## u3b3rg33k

OH, durrr.

Fixed.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## thrasherht

I have been really thinking long and hard about making a hate/jealous of bundy club. LOL.

So anyway, I just redid my loop for a school project and this is what I ended up with. I had to go for the bling factor so that our class can impress the people coming to see our projects.


----------



## masonkian

looks great m8


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonkian;13540948*
> looks great m8


thanks. I put the extra res in there for the sole purpose of being able to see the water flow.


----------



## masonkian

yeh looks good m8
+ rep


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13540231*


Can you take more pictures of this? I would love to see all about this res. Thank you


----------



## Qu1ckset

I Agree with the above post, i want more pictures!!!


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13541272*
> Can you take more pictures of this? I would love to see all about this res. Thank you


It looks like a little undersea volcano... lol


----------



## PulkPull

My new rig, specs in the sig. Kinda dusty, I will take better pics this weekend once it's de-dustafied.


























And my 12 hour stable prime overclock.










And posting at 5.6


----------



## Kahbrohn

/Kah sings

"Who let the Bundymania out? Woof-woof-woof-woof!"

There he goes again with all his cool cool toys!

Hey Bundy... how much are those Aquaero units? They seem interesting. Control water flow PLUS the rad fans and the firmware can be upgraded?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Indelibly.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13544366*
> Indelibly.


Indubitably.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13541272*
> Can you take more pictures of this? I would love to see all about this res. Thank you


Looks like an AquaComputer AquaTube res, probably the new model in black acetal. It's a really cool unit, AC has been making it for several years now in a variety of materials and port options that keep it on the market. I really like that top mounted look...


----------



## Bradford1040

does anyone know if the Indigo TIM is any good?


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


does anyone know if the Indigo TIM is any good?


This old thread reflects what my friends had said about it, basically, its good but might not be that much better than cheaper stuff. AS5 has always worked for me.


----------



## Bradford1040

OMG I am so happy that I am single again!!!! I just placed two orders in one week lol! I will be broke but maybe I will move into a cardboard box and just get cable for internet and phone, but it would have to be a big box maybe like two or three refrig boxes taped together and I will have to go and do phase cooling so I can use it to cool the pc and me lol


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

New: Mobo, GPU and Ram....


----------



## superhead91

@ Loko Sweet setup!


----------



## BWG

I like that one! What all is in the bottom?


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13549272*
> @ Loko Sweet setup!


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13549678*
> I like that one! What all is in the bottom?


Yes, everything is on the bottom. (PSU, pump, radiator, etc. ..)

This picture is before you upgrade the motherboard etc. ..


----------



## bundymania

HereÂ´s another italian Benchtable


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13550254*
> Here´s another italian Benchtable


first off, I would like to say on behalf of a lot of people at OCN, bundy you suck. LOL. second off.

where did you get black HyperX T1 ram?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


does anyone know if the Indigo TIM is any good?


I think it works, but you have to have a heatsink that can really improve from using it's thermal bonding/conductivity. SkinneeLabs says it works well on the EK HF supreme waterblock. It's hard to really say if you will get better results and it's pricey IMO to use.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


first off, I would like to say on behalf of a lot of people at OCN, bundy you suck. LOL. second off.

where did you get black HyperX T1 ram?










..no offense bundy ,wee love you here but the promised review of you know what takes forever


----------



## BWG

Bundy, get your hand out of your pants and get on it!


----------



## superhead91

I'm planning on getting a cylindrical reservoir. Are there any you guys would recommend? Any you would stay away from? They all look pretty similar to me. I'm thinking about getting a 250.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


I'm planning on getting a cylindrical reservoir. Are there any you guys would recommend? Any you would stay away from? They all look pretty similar to me. I'm thinking about getting a 250.


I think the EK multi option advance res is a pretty damn good res from what I have seen. most of them are pretty plain and the EK comes with lots of...well...options. LOL.


----------



## Bradford1040

does bundymania just have a never ending supply of PC's or is he a shop or what cause every time I look up and someone posts a nice looking rig he is got one just like it or better?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


I think the EK multi option advance res is a pretty damn good res from what I have seen. most of them are pretty plain and the EK comes with lots of...well...options. LOL.


Ok. This is the one I was kinda leaning towards. Thanks.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


does bundymania just have a never ending supply of PC's or is he a shop or what cause every time I look up and someone posts a nice looking rig he is got one just like it or better?


I heard he has sponsors....very very very very very^10000000 many sponsors


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


I heard he has sponsors....very very very very very^10000000 many sponsors


how does one go about getting those kinda sponsors, because I would love to do that. I would tell anybody and everybody I know about products from companies.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

bundy doesn't have sponsors, he is a reviewer for a German site. he is paid to review hardware.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


how does one go about getting those kinda sponsors, because I would love to do that. I would tell anybody and everybody I know about products from companies.


I know some people get sponsors because of previous builds that they've had.

Companies go "Oh that looks nice, maybe he wouldn't mind promoting a product of ours".

That's just what I assume, I'm sure there's other ways to get sponsored.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


bundy doesn't have sponsors, he is a reviewer for a German site. he is paid to review hardware.


Well then I'm mistaken









I wish I could do reviews, but procrastination gets the best of me.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


I know some people get sponsors because of previous builds that they've had.

Companies go "Oh that looks nice, maybe he wouldn't mind promoting a product of ours".

That's just what I assume, I'm sure there's other ways to get sponsored.


i see/read about a lot fewer sponsorships than i used to... i assume it has to do with the economy. i know at one point on corsairs site, i saw a line that read to the extent of "we no longer offer sponsorships"?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

the larger companies normally do not offer sponsorships. the main companies that offer sponsorships are companies like MNPCtech, bitspower, EK, etc.

companies like EVGA, Nvidia, Corsair ect. while they may still do SOME sponsorships, they typically are only for modders who have a long history of modding and are already well known.


----------



## mastical

Got some new GT AP-15's today.

Look what I found.


----------



## AdvanSuper

And that's why I have fan filters...


----------



## mastical

Its cuz I took the front off my case for about a month because the power button wasnt working right.

Now I know.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Dust problem?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13556162*
> Dust problem?


Still need to take the case outside and blast it since that just blows it all over the place lol.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;13556175*
> Still need to take the case outside and blast it since that just blows it all over the place lol.


Well yeah but it's just to get rid of the dust as it is now









Then buy some dust filters....speaking of which I need some :/


----------



## lvl8Hacker

Here are a couple quick shots of my last build...Caselabs M8 on the way


----------



## Boyboyd

That just convinced me to mount my 240 rad internally when I get my 800d. Amazing build.


----------



## broke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lvl8Hacker;13556930*
> Here are a couple quick shots of my last build...Caselabs M8 on the way


that's just lovely, that's a godly looking rig <3 lol


----------



## Bradford1040

that is about that best forum name on here lol. and has to be the most honestly thought out name for what this hobby will make you (BROKE)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13559422*
> That just convinced me to mount my 240 rad internally when I get my 800d. Amazing build.


Saw you guys talking about 800D and 700D builds. I've run air cooling in an 700D and they are far better for air cooling than people say, I tried it while I was completely upgrading my loop. Water cooling wise they are also great, there is a couple of things you can do to improve them and make them look tidier like mounting pumps and small res's too. Also when the pass through things are used at the front of the false floor, it doesn't look so good.


----------



## hy897t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


that is about that best forum name on here lol. and has to be the most honestly thought out name for what this hobby will make you (BROKE)










Yes yes it will....


----------



## lvl8Hacker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *broke*


that's just lovely, that's a godly looking rig <3 lol


Thanks Broke....I really enjoyed building it


----------



## luke997

Changed Mobo, GPUs, pumps, tubing and colour theme - so here are new photos, enjoy


----------



## Bradford1040

That is one sexy!!!! Lian Li, wow I am jealous. I have to say that I am in the middle of doing mine, and yours is looking head and shoulders above it! A+ work A+!


----------



## superhead91

So, I have 2 questions. 1) Do you use thermal paste, or thermal pads for a full cover block? 2) To remove TIM, should you use TIM removal stuff, or is there an alternative?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


So, I have 2 questions. 1) Do you use thermal paste, or thermal pads for a full cover block? 2) To remove TIM, should you use TIM removal stuff, or is there an alternative?


I use denatured alcohol, but I don't know if that is safe for everyone I am jut careful, plus on GPU water blocks both are used TIM on the CPU/GPU and thermal pads on the memory chips


----------



## soulster

meat glue, and bacon strips


----------



## Bradford1040

of coarse there is a lot more but this is all the parts (as I said and more) that are going into my Lian Li everything is now here, last package just arrived, so now it is down to the build no more lay out figuring, no more procrastination, LOL! I just have to get started. I don't know how some of you guys do the lay outs or mock ups on the computer? I wish that I knew what program I can use for that so I would have better than my drawings lol, plus it would be nice to be able to see if something would fit before I had it here by putting in the sizes (I mean other than measuring) is there a cad program that you don't have to be a engineer to use?


----------



## superhead91

So what thermal pads would you guys recommend? They're for a Crosshair IV full cover block.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Then buy some dust filters....speaking of which I need some :/


Why buy them? You can make some very decent dust filters out of pantyhose. No really. Stop laughing.

Basically you tie a knot in the leg (near the ankle), shove the fan in, stretch the pantyhose, tie another knot close to the fan on the open end, cut off the surplus. Works really well, you just get odd looks when you buy them (do _not_ use your girlfriend's / mother's / sister's without asking them).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


is there a cad program that you don't have to be a engineer to use?


Google SketchUp is probably your best bet here. Fairly intuitive, simple and quick to learn. It is even free (for the non pro version). Plus there is a "3D Warehouse" feature where you can download other models. There might already be one of your case, but beware, the models aren't always exactly to scale.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*


Google SketchUp is probably your best bet here. Fairly intuitive, simple and quick to learn. It is even free (for the non pro version). Plus there is a "3D Warehouse" feature where you can download other models. There might already be one of your case, but beware, the models aren't always exactly to scale.


Agreed

I have been using it and I am creating a Spiderman Themed case based off the 800D for a customer at the moment


----------



## Bradford1040

hey dumb question, do I need the pro version I know it only has the trial but what more does pro do that I would need or do you guys just use the normal version? and 8 is out and (oh found my case also) I downloaded the pro version I guess what I am asking is when the trial runs out on the pro will I still b able to use it for what I need to do with my cases?


----------



## GingerJohn

You don't need the pro version. You just miss out on some of the solid modelling tools and some group functions, nothing you will really need. Go ahead and try it though, I don't know what else you will use it for and you may find that it is worth it for you.


----------



## Bradford1040

well I own a welding company to and this looks as I can use it for that as well but not to savvy on this stuff, I don't know why but it never seems that I can grab the concept of the programs! I can do the work but the programs just are not the way I learned but trying to learn new tricks to help out considering I am stuck not working now, (injured) so need to find better ways of doing this stuff and I guess I got a lot of reading to do now lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated


can I get an update lol ,

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post13534602

this is my cpu block mod for gpu


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

u just linked back to ur post in this thread...


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13566077*
> u just linked back to ur post in this thread...


ummm yeah so that it could added lol he missed my post.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13566110*
> ummm yeah so that it could added lol he missed my post.


u want to link to this post, not the one u did. Nice mod btw.


----------



## bundymania

New Fullcover GPU Blocks + Backplates from Alphacool..and a little flowmeter


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13563001*
> So what thermal pads would you guys recommend? They're for a Crosshair IV full cover block.


Anyone?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Woah that GPU block looks sweet Bundy









Not a big fan of the mountain like curves on the right of the 570/580 block though.


----------



## bobfig

well to get ready for the summer months and the hot room i decided on making a change in my setup. i went from a gtx240 to a rx360. i mounted it up in my window so that i am able to open the window just enough so that the fans can blow the hot air outside or i can keep it closed and it would just blow the air back into the room. everything else is still more or less the same as before.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luke997;13561609*
> Changed Mobo, GPUs, pumps, tubing and colour theme - so here are new photos, enjoy


This is nothing short of beautiful. Did you paint the inside of your case and what are you using to hold up the Rad outside the case? Screws from a single fan?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13566022*
> can I get an update lol ,
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/584302-ocn-water-cooling-club-picture-gallery-1086.html#post13534602
> 
> this is my cpu block mod for gpu


I only add posts that contain pictures of full running rigs to the list. if you post a pic of your whole system I will add you ;-)


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luke997;13561609*
> Changed Mobo, GPUs, pumps, tubing and colour theme - so here are new photos, enjoy


Gorgeous build man, I'm actually trying for the exact same red/black color scheme with my HAF-X, I'm having some trouble with space inside the case though.

I wanted to ask you though, the back mount for the radiator could you link me to that product?

What type of wheels are those, very nice and elegant as well!


----------



## luke997

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*


This is nothing short of beautiful. Did you paint the inside of your case and what are you using to hold up the Rad outside the case? Screws from a single fan?


Thanks









It's powder coated black and the rad is kept by 4 screws from inside of the case (without fan) through the brackets to the rad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Necrodox*


Gorgeous build man, I'm actually trying for the exact same red/black color scheme with my HAF-X, I'm having some trouble with space inside the case though.

I wanted to ask you though, the back mount for the radiator could you link me to that product?

What type of wheels are those, very nice and elegant as well!


Thanks man!
The brackets I got are not available anymore but these are virtually the same - bar the laser cut logo:
Chilled PC

The wheels are Lian Li wheels.


----------



## austinb324

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soulster*


meat glue, and bacon strips


****in smart.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


well to get ready for the summer months and the hot room i decided on making a change in my setup. i went from a gtx240 to a rx360. i mounted it up in my window so that i am able to open the window just enough so that the fans can blow the hot air outside or i can keep it closed and it would just blow the air back into the room. everything else is still more or less the same as before.











Interesting idea but it seems like it's installed on a wall. The idea of a radiator is that air pass "through it" from one side to the other. I think you are severely restricting it's cooling capability.

Maybe I am looking at the setup wrong?

*EDIT: Ok... I see it now. You have a piece of gypsum board on which it is installed. I assume you have a hole cut out on it. The board is installed in the window channel. Nice.... Only thing I'd add is a push/pull fan configuration and you'd be set for those hot summer days.*


----------



## bobfig

It's mounted to 3/4" mdf and when the Windows closed there is a 3/4" space between the wood and the window pain. When the window is open it is able to blow the air outside. At the moment I only have my CPU in the loop but I will eventually get the gpu in there too.


----------



## Onions

but either way your gonna have to pay alot to keep cool. The only effective way to avoid the cost of acing so much is to put the entire rad outside.....


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


but either way your gonna have to pay a lot to keep cool. The only effective way to avoid the cost of acing so much is to put the entire rad outside.....


in reality i don't see a difference as if it was just circulating the air inside the house its still heating it and ac will turn on to compensate for the rise in heat compared to it blowing it out with the warmed air. also this isn't just poring our air as its an XSPC RX rad so you don't need high cfm to use it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Since I started this WC'ing stuff, I have always had it in my mind that I should remove the fans off the rad, extend the tubing and then submerge the rad itself in a pail/drum of water. Too bad the rad is not aluminum to prevent rust that way... but it would be a good experiment.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

copper doesn't rust either.


----------



## j0sh




----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0sh*


[]


Wow, our rigs are remarkably similar... http://bit.ly/k7Zv34


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0sh*












How did you do this? I love it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


copper doesn't rust either.


But would the welding on copper rust? (not a welder so I need to ask)


----------



## j0sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13574524*
> How did you do this? I love it.


http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/473401-tutorial-dvd-drive-stealth-guide-56k.html


----------



## McDown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luke997*


Changed Mobo, GPUs, pumps, tubing and colour theme - so here are new photos, enjoy



















Great build Luke








You've gotta get yourself a side window man. You can't hide that beauty inside.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


But would the welding on copper rust? (not a welder so I need to ask)


If it's not ferrous it doesn't rust. A quick Wikipedia reference: "Rusting is the common term for corrosion of iron and its alloys, such as steel. Many other metals undergo equivalent corrosion, but the resulting oxides are not commonly called rust."

You'll find similar words in hardcover encyclopedias.

Aluminum happens to form a protective oxide layer in air. Ferrous oxides are not protective, and therefore undesirable.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


But would the welding on copper rust? (not a welder so I need to ask)



No it wont rust.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


But would the welding on copper rust? (not a welder so I need to ask)


copper isn't welded, it is soldered, and no nothing on a rad will rust unless you leave fan screws installed on it (they are steel)

not sure what the point is of what you where trying to do though, unless you put the rad in a bucket with water and ice you will not get any benefit from just having the rad in a bucket of water.

if you do do a slush box with water and ice keep in mind you will need to insulate your loop against condensation.


----------



## BWG

Ok, Lukes computer has wheels! I know that is not an abnormal thing, but I would put a set of 22's on that thing!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

copper isn't welded, it is soldered, and no nothing on a rad will rust unless you leave fan screws installed on it (they are steel)

not sure what the point is of what you where trying to do though, unless you put the rad in a bucket with water and ice you will not get any benefit from just having the rad in a bucket of water.

if you do do a slush box with water and ice keep in mind you will need to insulate your loop against condensation.


Just a thought "spoken out loud". That's all. Nothing I actually plan on doing. But the theory is that if water transfers heat better, then the radiator dropped into a bucket of water (ambient temp - nothing cooled or chilled) would be more efficient in it's cooling function than by using air pushed/pulled by fans. Truth of the matter is that it will probably only be like a degree or two (I estimate) better than an air cooled radiator so it's not worth it IMO.

It's Friday and getting close to 5PM and I need to fill my internal reservoir with my favorite concoction!


----------



## luke997

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BWG*


Ok, Lukes computer has wheels! I know that is not an abnormal thing, but I would put a set of 22's on that thing!


That's the best comment on my rig I've ever heard









Quote:



Originally Posted by *McDown*


Great build Luke








You've gotta get yourself a side window man. You can't hide that beauty inside.


Thanks








I need all those fans to feed those RX360 and RX240 inside in push pull as well as keep the positive pressure









Thanks to that I have no dust in case/on rads, just on the mesh outside the intake fans


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Just a thought "spoken out loud". That's all. Nothing I actually plan on doing. But the theory is that if water transfers heat better, then the radiator dropped into a bucket of water (ambient temp - nothing cooled or chilled) would be more efficient in it's cooling function than by using air pushed/pulled by fans. Truth of the matter is that it will probably only be like a degree or two (I estimate) better than an air cooled radiator so it's not worth it IMO.

It's Friday and getting close to 5PM and I need to fill my internal reservoir with my favorite concoction!


well the temps would be good, until the bucket/barrel of water reached thermal equilibrium with your loop, then your temps would shoot through the roof because the rad would not be being cooled at all.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


well the temps would be good, until the bucket/barrel of water reached thermal equilibrium with your loop, then your temps would shoot through the roof because the rad would not be being cooled at all.


Ahhhh... good point! That's why I only had it in the thought process department. I knew inside it would be too easy to work. Otherwise everyone would already be doing that!


----------



## MrJackson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13575670*
> Ahhhh... good point! That's why I only had it in the thought process department. I knew inside it would be too easy to work. Otherwise everyone would already be doing that!


Of you had a creek or other source of always cool water it could work, but then you have a lot more tubing and would probably need a bigger pump.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrJackson;13576506*
> Of you had a creek or other source of always cool water it could work, but then you have a lot more tubing and would probably need a bigger pump.


I think I will stick to my high speed yate loon's (volt controlled) and use all that money that I would have had to spend on my experiment for beer or jack daniels instead.

Hmmm... I am on an island surrounded by ocean! Hate to see what salt spray will do to my mobo though... "Major fried mobo Batman!"


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrJackson;13576506*
> Of you had a creek or other source of always cool water it could work, but then you have a lot more tubing and would probably need a bigger pump.


Instead of putting a rad in a bucket, why not use a water/water hx? koolance sells them, and you could always put it in your loop post rad, so you can use whatever cooling medium works best at your current location (quick disconnects for lan parties?).


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;13576818*
> Instead of putting a rad in a bucket, why not use a water/water hx? koolance sells them, and you could always put it in your loop post rad, so you can use whatever cooling medium works best at your current location (quick disconnects for lan parties?).


Something like this? That seems like a good option to adding a secondary rad into a loop maybe? Not sure though... first time I come across this. Almost seems like a good idea to install this on the outlet of the CPU block going into a GPU block for example.


----------



## Bradford1040

I was just looking at fittings and noticed that enzotech has a wide and narrow why? Is there some benefit to slowing down or speeding up the flow? everyone told me that the speed control pump was kinda dumb or is it?


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13576907*
> Something like this? That seems like a good option to adding a secondary rad into a loop maybe? Not sure though... first time I come across this. Almost seems like a good idea to install this on the outlet of the CPU block going into a GPU block for example.


Exactly like that.
But there are efficiency losses, so its best function is separating a sealed loop from an untrusted water source, imho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13577814*
> I was just looking at fittings and noticed that enzotech has a wide and narrow why? Is there some benefit to slowing down or speeding up the flow? everyone told me that the speed control pump was kinda dumb or is it?


No benefit to constricting flow at a fitting. Inside a waterblock is different, but for different reasons.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13576907*
> Something like this? That seems like a good option to adding a secondary rad into a loop maybe? Not sure though... first time I come across this. Almost seems like a good idea to install this on the outlet of the CPU block going into a GPU block for example.


heat exchangers are for when you want to cool a loop with a liquid such as a Geothermal loop, but don't want the liquids mixing together. The exchanger keeps the two loops seperate.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

They're also good if you have an internal loop and a separate external loop that you want to disconnect from when you go to lans or move your pc.


----------



## Kahbrohn

At my age, the wife would have a hard hard time understanding that I am going to a lan party...

_50-year-old-husband_: "Honey! I'm off to the lan party over at Carlos' house!"

_Wife-of-50-year-old-husband_: "Kahbrohn! You get back here this instant! You can't go out and play with your lan buddies until you finish your chores!"

_50-year-old-husband_: "Awwwww..... honey!!! You never let me go out and play!"

*WHAM!* (sound of the whirlwind frying pan against 50-year-old-husband's head)

I'll stay home and play Mass Effect 1, then Mass Effect 2... by the time I am done, hopefully Mass Effect 3 will be out by then.


----------



## Farih

can i join the club ?

First ever WC build









tiny build log HERE


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih;13578528*
> can i join the club ?
> 
> First ever WC build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tiny build log HERE


Very good looking, and great job for a first'timer.


----------



## PulkPull

Yes I know my 1200W psu is overkill.... FOR NOW *evil laugh*

I have plans for another GTX580 or 2 down the road.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13578525*
> At my age, the wife would have a hard hard time understanding that I am going to a lan party...
> 
> _50-year-old-husband_: "Honey! I'm off to the lan party over at Carlos' house!"
> 
> _Wife-of-50-year-old-husband_: "Kahbrohn! You get back here this instant! You can't go out and play with your lan buddies until you finish your chores!"
> 
> _50-year-old-husband_: "Awwwww..... honey!!! You never let me go out and play!"
> 
> *WHAM!* (sound of the whirlwind frying pan against 50-year-old-husband's head)
> 
> I'll stay home and play Mass Effect 1, then Mass Effect 2... by the time I am done, hopefully Mass Effect 3 will be out by then.


LOL! I still want to get married, though.

*JESUS!!!!!! SEND ME THE WOMAN OF MY DREAMS!!!!!!!!*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Temporary setup, re did my loop and got rid of the Ram block to improve flow. Not a fan of clear tubing really, ordered some red Primochill LRT and Koolance 360 rad shroud for my next mod


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Boyboyd

I swapped my Coolermaster Scout for a 700D.

All i'm waiting for now is my god-damned gentle typhoons so I can hear myself think.



Terrible picture. I just finished building it.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Looks pretty clean. Just toss that 240 down below and a 360 up top


----------



## Boyboyd

Thanks. I'm not good enough at modding to put the 240 at the bottom. But i'm replacing it with a 360 later this year hopefully.


----------



## bundymania

A "cleaned" and painted EK Supreme:










like it ?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13587592*
> A "cleaned" and painted EK Supreme:
> *pic*
> like it ?


Looks great, now you just need the new mount kit


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13587592*
> A "cleaned" and painted EK Supreme:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like it ?


Yum.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Boyboyd

This case eats my 240 rad. Thinking of adding a 360 above it. I need to find out how well sandwiching radiators works first though.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13580374*
> LOL! I still want to get married, though.
> 
> *JESUS!!!!!! SEND ME THE WOMAN OF MY DREAMS!!!!!!!!*


I wish it was that easy to get a woman, asked Him many times but no succes.
I guess I need to go outside to find one


----------



## valvehead

It's my turn:


































More details in my build log.

It's still a mess in regards to cable management, but that'll have to wait until I've done several case mods.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;13588619*
> It's my turn:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details in my build log.
> 
> It's still a mess in regards to cable management, but that'll have to wait until I've done several case mods.


Are you not putting the top back on or is the stuff out to paint?


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13588719*
> Are you not putting the top back on or is the stuff out to paint?


I have to get it cut. I'm working on an grille design for both the top and front. I need to plan this out carefully since I have not yet found any replacement silver tops for an original A77. I can't afford to screw up.

Edit: BTW, I'm not going to paint it. I originally wanted a black A77, but I could only find a silver one. I've grown quite fond of the silver look. Here's a shot of the complete case before watercooling:


----------



## Boyboyd

I like it. A lot.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;13588754*
> I have to get it cut. I'm working on an grille design for both the top and front. I need to plan this out carefully since I have not yet found any replacement silver tops for an original A77. I can't afford to screw up.


I Like it to just so you know! I also have seen the silver top at PPCS and Frozen Cpu can order them, just fyi, my top is the sme as yours


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;13588754*
> I have to get it cut. I'm working on an grille design for both the top and front. I need to plan this out carefully since I have not yet found any replacement silver tops for an original A77. I can't afford to screw up.


as i was looking at the pics i was like, where did he get that case?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;13588754*
> I have to get it cut. I'm working on an grille design for both the top and front. I need to plan this out carefully since I have not yet found any replacement silver tops for an original A77. I can't afford to screw up.
> 
> Edit: BTW, I'm not going to paint it. I originally wanted a black A77, but I could only find a silver one. I've grown quite fond of the silver look. Here's a shot of the complete case before watercooling:


in fact the canceled my case and are no longer making direct parts for it but yours and the pc-a80 are still being made both cases and parts


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13588782*
> I Like it to just so you know! I also have seen the silver top at PPCS and Frozen Cpu can order them, just fyi, my top is the sme as yours


Really? I must be missing it because I've looked at both places several times. Do you have any links?


----------



## Bradford1040

this one all you would have to do is change the usb panel and they sell it!


this one all you have to do is call and ask them to order it in silver it is the sameas your top just black with the holes but 7010 is the new same size model


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13588857*
> this one all you would have to do is change the usb panel and they sell it!
> 
> 
> this one all you have to do is call and ask them to order it in silver it is the sameas your top just black with the holes but 7010 is the new same size model


I suppose that could work, but I would have to add holes for the power and reset switches.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;13588883*
> I suppose that could work, but I would have to add holes for the power and reset switches.


lol get this guy he is ready to cut 3 very big holes but 2 small ones he is not sure about, he is acting like me huh, lol


----------



## Bradford1040

now I just took these and I suck as a camera man and sorry for that but I have been slowly inching towards my goal and this is just the start I installed sound panel and painted some parts tonight I cut holes in my roof lol for the 240 DD rad and I also have the 120 DD rad in the back plus the swiftech 240 going up front


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13588946*
> lol get this guy he is ready to cut 3 very big holes but 2 small ones he is not sure about, he is acting like me huh, lol


A replacement top would only be for reselling the case anyway (which is why I was looking for an exact replacement). Neither of those you posted would work for my current set up with a 420 rad. I'm going to be cutting a slotted grille directly into the top (instead of adding a separate grille piece on top), so I need to start with a blank top.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;13589111*
> A replacement top would only be for reselling the case anyway (which is why I was looking for an exact replacement). Neither of those you posted would work for my current set up with a 420 rad. I'm going to be cutting a slotted grille directly into the top (instead of adding a separate grille piece on top), so I need to start with a blank top.


oh my bad (and you knew I was joking right?) I thought you were doing a 360 hard to tell on that case, even though mine is the same size, lol. I am sorry that thoughs wont work for you but as I said you mite want to call both those places and ask for them t do it and save you original top

here is the lian li site with your top with 120 holes I dont see a blank one but I am sure they got it

Sorry they do have it this is it !


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13589132*
> oh my bad (and you knew I was joking right?) I thought you were doing a 360 hard to tell on that case, even though mine is the same size, lol. I am sorry that thoughs wont work for you but as I said you mite want to call both those places and ask for them t do it and save you original top


Yeah, I knew you were joking. I was just trying to clarify my situation.

I know it would have been a whole lot easier if I went with a 360 rad, but I like challenges. I even briefly considered a 480. Or maybe you could just say I'm nuts.








Quote:


> Sorry they do have it this is it !


That could work if I can get it in silver. It seems to be lacking the retention springs that the A77 has, but the holes are there. I could just swap the springs out.

The funny thing is that the A77F doesn't even have holes for the retention springs. I know this because I also have a black A77F (it houses my home server). The door mounting at the bottom is completely different. I don't know why they changed it. The new design allows the door to rattle. In many respects the A77F is a step back from the original A77 design, but it's still a good case.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;13589512*
> Yeah, I knew you were joking. I was just trying to clarify my situation.
> 
> I know it would have been a whole lot easier if I went with a 360 rad, but I like challenges. I even briefly considered a 480. Or maybe you could just say I'm nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That could work if I can get it in silver. It seems to be lacking the retention springs that the A77 has, but the holes are there. I could just swap the springs out.
> 
> The funny thing is that the A77F doesn't even have holes for the retention springs. I know this because I also have a black A77F (it houses my home server). The door mounting at the bottom is completely different. I don't know why they changed it. The new design allows the door to rattle. In many respects the A77F is a step back from the original A77 design, but it's still a good case.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


I am laying out myself right at the moment, I am putting a dd 240 in the top and this is my first cut on a case outside panel! I am just as nervous as you are lol, I even had another member holding my hand so to speak to give me the confidence to do it lol. I got another top of ebay the other day so that part is safe if I screw it up, I did not think the paint would take so long to dry or I would have done the cutting already, I want the board in to see were the rad will sit. I cut the hole in the mother board last night

Did you see the pic's how does the start look? I am prob. removing the upper psu mount to but not sure yet


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13589581*
> Did you see the pic's how does the start look? I am prob. removing the upper psu mount to but not sure yet


Looks good. Are you going to go all black?

Yeah, removing that upper psu mount is one of the next things I will do. It's in the way of my tubing, and it just looks out of place anyway.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;13589661*
> Looks good. Are you going to go all black?
> 
> Yeah, removing that upper psu mount is one of the next things I will do. It's in the way of my tubing, and it just looks out of place anyway.


as far as black that was the extent of my black I wanted some aluminum look still for contrast, I used wrinkle high heat paint on PSU and HDD mount and mother board tray, I still need to figure out if I can put wires behind the tray, it is real tight and now more so from sound panel installed! I am really going as slow as I a can my nature is to get it done but I want a rig that people on here will look at and say wow, I wish I had that as well as to see if I can do it lol. I am also doing a silverstone TJ-10 at the same time which makes things chaotic. I really do suck at taking pictures, so sorry if you cant see things


----------



## 2800

Beautiful!!!


----------



## LJOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13589027*
> now I just took these and I suck as a camera man and sorry for that but I have been slowly inching towards my goal and this is just the start I installed sound panel and painted some parts tonight I cut holes in my roof lol for the 240 DD rad and I also have the 120 DD rad in the back plus the swiftech 240 going up front


Is that wrinkle paint? I just painted the inside of my buddys case with that and it looks great Just spray and apply some heat with a heat gun to get a nice textured finish


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


now I just took these and I suck as a camera man and sorry for that but I have been slowly inching towards my goal and this is just the start I installed sound panel and painted some parts tonight I cut holes in my roof lol for the 240 DD rad and I also have the 120 DD rad in the back plus the swiftech 240 going up front


that paint actually does look pretty good, I take back what I said about textured paints


----------



## saint19

Can I join?










On the other hand, I need help on this one: http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/1021...tx-560-ti.html

Low performance is killing me


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


that paint actually does look pretty good, I take back what I said about textured paints










Well thank you, I am on my phone as I have said screw it and desided to just do the hole build today, won't most likely be done till tomorrow as I don't have all the screws I need, but mite make do. Wish me luck lol.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


Well thank you, I am on my phone as I have said screw it and desided to just do the hole build today, won't most likely be done till tomorrow as I don't have all the screws I need, but mite make do. Wish me luck lol.


I normally like to hold off until I have everything I think I will need, but there where two or three times I had to overnight something I forgot, so I know about starting and not having everything you need









good luck mate


----------



## ajmidd12

Can I join now













































http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-internal.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

I normally like to hold off until I have everything I think I will need, but there where two or three times I had to overnight something I forgot, so I know about starting and not having everything you need









good luck mate










I thought I did have everything and extra but the dam 40mm screws I got dot like going in to the DD rads! But it is looking good as things are moving along! I had a lay out change in the build but I am hoping for the better! The hard drive rack is out and my antec versa has so much space behind it I am able to put the 1tb there. I put two more holes in the mobo tray for psu wires and I think I will be able to hide most. After I get back up I will post to see if anyone has suggestion on a way to run things better on this case


----------



## superhead91

What do you guys think would be a better setup?
Res->pump->RX360->cpu block->mobo block->res
-or-
Res->pump->RX240->cpu block->120 rad->mobo block->res
?

Edit: Also, if I went with the second choice, do you think I'd need a second pump? All I've got right now is an MCP350


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13597233*
> What do you guys think would be a better setup?
> Res->pump->RX360->cpu block->mobo block->res
> -or-
> Res->pump->RX240->cpu block->120 rad->mobo block->res
> ?
> 
> Edit: Also, if I went with the second choice, do you think I'd need a second pump? All I've got right now is an MCP350


they would probably be about the same. I say go for a 360 and additional 120 or 240 ;-)

and no, you would not need more pump. look at my loop, I have 4 rads, and 6 blocks all being run by a single MCP355


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13598491*
> they would probably be about the same. I say go for a 360 and additional 120 or 240 ;-)
> 
> and no, you would not need more pump. look at my loop, I have 4 rads, and 6 blocks all being run by a single MCP355


Thanks! The reason I ask is because I have a HAF 932, and I was thinking about putting a bay reservoir in the upper rear of the case. If I did that, I wouldn't have room for a 360 up top, but I may just put the res up front and stick with one 360 for now and maybe add a 120 if I ever cool my GPU.


----------



## bundymania

...and with LED´s


----------



## kevingreenbmx

that is a pretty cool res, but it has an awful lot of plastic threads that could potentially leak...


----------



## Bradford1040

Ok Kevin I did it lol, the holes are cut and upper Rad mounted and it looks good in fact! I still have allot of work ahead but that was the scary part for me. The indgo Tim is next as well as reaplying on gpu blocks. I hate not having a computer I should of bought a OS for the LAN first then would have the back gamer it was made for but as I said I was not planning this tonight


----------



## Triangle

@Bundy - That res is cool...


----------



## Bradford1040

Can someone please post or quote some mounting pictures of the micro Res (swiftech) please, I am on my phone an it is very close to impossible to find with this thing!!!

Thank you for help guys I am kinda stuck on this. I know it is easy but you will see why I am having a problem when I post pictures after I am done.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13603607*
> Can someone please post or quote some mounting pictures of the micro Res (swiftech) please, I am on my phone an it is very close to impossible to find with this thing!!!
> 
> Thank you for help guys I am kinda stuck on this. I know it is easy but you will see why I am having a problem when I post pictures after I am done.


If this is for the case in your sig, try mounting it on the rear vent (next to the PCI expansion slots) or up top on the 5.25" drive bays.


----------



## Vertix

Just started my 700D build, can't wait till I can contribute to the best thread ever!


----------



## ilocos boy

can i join the club please.......


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luke997;13561609*
> Changed Mobo, GPUs, pumps, tubing and colour theme - so here are new photos, enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen a few other rigs with the external rad sitting close to the back of the case and I am wondering how the monitor cables plug into the back of the gpu's?
Click to expand...


----------



## xstasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilocos boy;13604773*
> can i join the club please.......


damn, is that a HAF X with RX360?







thats alot of clearance between the rams and the fan,









Mine isn't anywhere close to yours


----------



## xstasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808;13604927*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *luke997;13561609*
> Changed Mobo, GPUs, pumps, tubing and colour theme - so here are new photos, enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> [QUOTE]
> I've seen a few other rigs with the external rad sitting close to the back of the case and I am wondering how the monitor cables plug into the back of the gpu's?[/QUOTE]
> 
> You got my thinking.... hmmm:confused:[/QUOTE]
> [/QUOTE]
Click to expand...


----------



## ttoadd.nz

I need to stop tinkering with my pc... I've changed my tubes again because I wasnt happy with the clear tygon. Black suits my tastes much more.







Stay tuned tho, sleeving from MDPC is coming and the dremels coming out! I will be inverting the board, it should give me enough space to mount the RX360 in the roof, so no more external rad


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13605126*
> 
> 
> I need to stop tinkering with my pc... I've changed my tubes again because I wasnt happy with the clear tygon. Black suits my tastes much more.


Black is the way to go with any theme. 100-% agree!


----------



## luke997

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808;13604927*
> I've seen a few other rigs with the external rad sitting close to the back of the case and I am wondering how the monitor cables plug into the back of the gpu's?


Tha case is much wider than the rad - and the rad is mounted to the far left side - while all the ports are to the right side - so no issues at all even with the connectors sitting furthest away from the PCI slot base.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;13604195*
> If this is for the case in your sig, try mounting it on the rear vent (next to the PCI expansion slots) or up top on the 5.25" drive bays.


Thank you, I did think of that spot in the picture. I was kinda hoping there was more choices. (That look good as well) I don't like that it will be blocking gpu's and up on the t 1/4 is out do to stuff already there that can't move. I guess if there are no more ideas the vent will be the spot


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

Hope these come out ok! I should of taken during the day and will but I was happy with the fc-8 mount and wanted to post it.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xstasy;13604933*
> damn, is that a HAF X with RX360?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats alot of clearance between the rams and the fan,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine isn't anywhere close to yours[/QUOTE]
> 
> Here is another one:
> 
> [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/dsc05966a.jpg/][IMG alt="dsc05966a.jpg"]http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/7571/dsc05966a.jpg[/URL]


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;13614421*
> Here is another one:


just got that same video card, itsreally fast, and those little two LEDs are cool too to indicate if something is wrong


----------



## Bradford1040

Kevin how does my top look? I posted it earlier, but had to take picture with flash. Those were my first time fan holes as well as the mount of the lamptron fc-8! Still trying to find a spot for the micro Res. Then wire it up and loop test.


----------



## Crabid

Hmmmm don't think I've posted here before, guess I should've really, anyways, here goes:


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crabid;13616979*
> Hmmmm don't think I've posted here before, guess I should've really, anyways, here goes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Nice


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13616926*
> Kevin how does my top look? I posted it earlier, but had to take picture with flash. Those were my first time fan holes as well as the mount of the lamptron fc-8! Still trying to find a spot for the micro Res. Then wire it up and loop test.


looks good









I would have done the fan controller differently though, I would have taken the faceplate off of it and drilled holes for each of the knobs, but your way makes it so that spot could also be used for other devices in the future.

edit:

http://www.overclock.net/11121671-post1134.html

that post shows how I did my fan controller


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13618225*
> updated
> 
> edit:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/11121671-post1134.html
> 
> that post shows how I did my fan controller


very nice ! like your magmas over there...hopefully you would not test their resistance to heat







(which is btw very high)

How did you made the straight and circular cuts in the panel if i may ? Result looks great









Thanks


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Looks great, Crabid.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

looks good









I would have done the fan controller differently though, I would have taken the faceplate off of it and drilled holes for each of the knobs, but your way makes it so that spot could also be used for other devices in the future.

edit:

http://www.overclock.net/11121671-post1134.html

that post shows how I did my fan controller


I wanted to mount it like that but if you see the fc-8 it kinda needs the front plate, I could of done it if I reverse the mounting hardware! I think I mite try it on scrap panels and see how it looks, but as for the fc-8 it is the hardest to self mount IMHO, I have looked at the other ones and it looks like I should have gone with the fc-6 to mount like that


----------



## Farih

Guys what can i get to use instead of silver or PT nuke ?

is this any good ?
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...ive-Fluid.html

Atm i just got some ready to go coolant in it from Phobya. Is it ok to run this stuff without silver or PT nuke ?
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...ar-1000ml.html


----------



## saint19

Your links doesn't work for me, can your review it?


----------



## Farih

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Your links doesn't work for me, can your review it?


New links.

this is the coolant i use now.
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Ph...0ml_18379.html

does it need anything like silver or PT nuke ?

since i cant find any silver or PT nuke is this stuff any good ?
http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk...ive-Fluid.html


----------



## Boyboyd

All PT nuke is is copper sulphate (or copper sulfate). You can add some to your loop yourself as long as you use the right quantity.


----------



## Farih

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


All PT nuke is is copper sulphate (or copper sulfate). You can add some to your loop yourself as long as you use the right quantity.


i rather stay away from stuff like that, knowing me i probably mess it up









i like the idea of a bit of silver but i cant get it anywhere, only in bigger amounts









Thats why i have gotten this coolant and hoping it would be ok on its own


----------



## Boyboyd

I understand. I'm the opposite.

I can get loads of the silver killcoils but no PT nuke anywhere.


----------



## Crabid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farih*


i rather stay away from stuff like that, knowing me i probably mess it up









i like the idea of a bit of silver but i cant get it anywhere, only in bigger amounts









Thats why i have gotten this coolant and hoping it would be ok on its own


What about ordering from another country? It's far from ideal I know, but a killcoil isn't expensive or heavy so it shouldn't be too bad.


----------



## Farih

The coolant i use now says its all this and that but i rather believe its marketing and this is just plain destilled water or so


----------



## Farih

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crabid*


What about ordering from another country? It's far from ideal I know, but a killcoil isn't expensive or heavy so it shouldn't be too bad.


If you can show me any that ships to the netherlands then please









I am a reseller of Aquatuning but they dont sell silver and pt nuke


----------



## saint19

Stores like frozen CPU, sidewindercomputer, performancepcs and jab-tech have international shipping and can send you a pair of those PT nuke to your country.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
https://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.frozencpu.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php

I bought from the 1st three without problems.


----------



## mm67

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farih*


If you can show me any that ships to the netherlands then please









I am a reseller of Aquatuning but they dont sell silver and pt nuke


I don't how much these guys charge for delivery, but they seem to have silver coils : http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cust...pid-13036.html


----------



## Crabid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farih*


If you can show me any that ships to the netherlands then please









I am a reseller of Aquatuning but they dont sell silver and pt nuke


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...oir_Strip.html

$15 shipping estimate to the Netherlands $7 for the killcoil xD

So not ideal, but it is a one off...


----------



## Farih

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crabid*


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...oir_Strip.html

$15 shipping estimate to the Netherlands $7 for the killcoil xD

So not ideal, but it is a one off...


thats allright, the dollar is crap compared to euro's now so









Big thx, ill put me order with this one


----------



## Farih

so this:
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Ph...0ml_18379.html

With a kill coil will stay clean for months ?


----------



## Nemesis429

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*




I need to stop tinkering with my pc... I've changed my tubes again because I wasnt happy with the clear tygon. Black suits my tastes much more.







Stay tuned tho, sleeving from MDPC is coming and the dremels coming out! I will be inverting the board, it should give me enough space to mount the RX360 in the roof, so no more external rad










moar pics pls? D:


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farih*


so this:
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Ph...0ml_18379.html

With a kill coil will stay clean for months ?


Yeah, mine has been running fine for 5 months now, maybe you need clean the loop about a year or so.


----------



## Crabid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farih*


so this:
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Ph...0ml_18379.html

With a kill coil will stay clean for months ?


Pure silver doesn't exactly go off









I've never seen anything on mine, it kills everything anyway so you can't exactly grow anything on it, and assuming you use distilled water, you can't get calcium deposits on it either.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farih*


so this:
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Ph...0ml_18379.html

With a kill coil will stay clean for months ?


That contains ethylene glycol which is anti-freeze. I think that antifreeze can have a similar effect to biocide so you should be ok with that just by itself.

If you want to use a killcoil for peace of mind then it will definitely be enough.


----------



## Farih

thx for all reply's









ill keep using this coolant then and get me a kill coil


----------



## mdatmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih;13623377*
> thx for all reply's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill keep using this coolant then and get me a kill coil


You don't need to get a kill coil from a PC shop. Just search jewelry making/metal stores for 99.999% pure silver. I got mine for dirt cheap from a place in AU called AandE metals.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13620800*
> very nice ! like your magmas over there...hopefully you would not test their resistance to heat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (which is btw very high)
> 
> How did you made the straight and circular cuts in the panel if i may ? Result looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I made all the cuts free hand with an electric jig saw after drawing them out on the tape.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13621816*
> I wanted to mount it like that but if you see the fc-8 it kinda needs the front plate, I could of done it if I reverse the mounting hardware! I think I mite try it on scrap panels and see how it looks, but as for the fc-8 it is the hardest to self mount IMHO, I have looked at the other ones and it looks like I should have gone with the fc-6 to mount like that


yea, i say see what you can come up with, post a thread with your results


----------



## Bradford1040

Got to love Virginia lol, I have been without power since 4pm and the power company response is we are calling our tech's back in to work overtime lol. What genius sent them home during a black out lol. I will not be finishing my build today sorry


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13627564*
> Got to love Virginia lol, I have been without power since 4pm and the power company response is we are calling our tech's back in to work overtime lol. What genius sent them home during a black out lol. I will not be finishing my build today sorry


That sucks







we had a power cut last weekend that lasted 2 hours. I've never seen it out as long as that in my entire life. I was amazed by how much i need electricity.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13629266*
> That sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we had a power cut last weekend that lasted 2 hours. I've never seen it out as long as that in my entire life. I was amazed by how much i need electricity.


Well at 4:15am it just went on, woke me up all the lights went on, and water started running cause I forgot to turn the nob off lol. I guess I will just get up and start on my rig, only bad thing is that it is raining like crazy and I do painting outside, I guess I could just do the other stuff but I hate skipping over steps! But I want my PC back now I am DT'ing for steam games lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13629372*
> Well at 4:15am it just went on, woke me up all the lights went on, and water started running cause I forgot to turn the nob off lol. I guess I will just get up and start on my rig, only bad thing is that it is raining like crazy and I do painting outside, I guess I could just do the other stuff but I hate skipping over steps! But I want my PC back now I am DT'ing for steam games lol


your wanter doesn't run without electricity?

what kind of water do you have?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


your wanter doesn't run without electricity?

what kind of water do you have?


If he live near by the water pumping station and it too was without electricity and it's emergency back up system was out... it could happen.

Or he has his own well and the pump was without electricity.

Personally... I can live without electricity. It's the water that I need!!!


----------



## sprower

Funny isn't it? Some of us are so plugged in that even the thought of not being so can be a scary thing.









Our substation had a planned outage about a month back. We knew weeks ahead of time that it would go off at 10pm and be back up by 5am. Come that night.... it was like the world was coming to an end and we knew exactly when it was going down lol...

wife: "Go get a golf club..."
me: "Go get naked.







"


----------



## PCSarge

your xcomplaining about 4 whole hours? my half of my city was down for 3 WEEKS last year, middle of the summer, no A/C, no t.v, no working pool, no radio.

i was the smart one, i left town and went to the cottage for a week during that time


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13630773*
> Our substation had a planned outage about a month back. We knew weeks ahead of time that it would go off at 10pm and be back up by 5am. Come that night.... it was like the world was coming to an end and we knew exactly when it was going down lol...


Ever notice how much quieter things get around you when there is an outage?


----------



## Boyboyd

I got my GTs and my 2nd rad today. Temps have dropped enough to justify the cost i think. It's also much quieter with no deltas running.

Much much quieter.


----------



## Onions

wow sandwiching rads


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


wow sandwiching rads*....*


*...* is pointless

All that rad for a CPU?


----------



## MrJackson

He may have high ambient temps or want a really quiet system.

I think the 360 should go inside and the 240 on the top near the back, the 240 first in line after the cpu then the 360.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


your wanter doesn't run without electricity?

what kind of water do you have?


Well water, I have a pump and filtering that runs on the expensive juice lol.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


*...* is pointless

All that rad for a CPU?


agreed, i hope he is planing to add gpu to the loop


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;13633227*
> agreed, i hope he is planing to add gpu to the loop


I am yes. But i didn't see the point in getting a waterblock for this 5850 if i'll be replacing it in summer.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13633988*
> I am yes. But i didn't see the point in getting a waterblock for this 5850 if i'll be replacing it in summer.


Well 900/1200 is a good OC if you are getting good temps and able to run it 24/7, I wouldn't see any reason for a waterblock.

I fold on both of my 5850s and they wouldn't be alive if I didn't have water blocks on them.


----------



## Boyboyd

The temps on my GPU stay pretty much at 60. I've got a custom fan profile set up but when gaming it's by far the loudest part of my computer.

I've just re-arranged my 360. Getting 4 degrees better temps by it not being in a sandwich. It just looks a bit... messy now.


----------



## _TwIsTeD_

This is my first and current water cooling setup. I have a Q9550 being cooled by an internally mounted 240 stealth radiator in an CM 690 case.
http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=4402
Let me know what you think. I will post better pics when I take them and get a photobucket acount.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge;13630825*
> your xcomplaining about 4 whole hours? my half of my city was down for 3 WEEKS last year, middle of the summer, no A/C, no t.v, no working pool, no radio.
> 
> i was the smart one, i left town and went to the cottage for a week during that time


Well a couple of years ago at my house in Florida, we had the triple threat as it was nicknamed. Three hurricane in a row, we were without power for two months!! Now to really add insult to injury the power company sent out a normal bill during the outage! They said it was averaged bill and we were not on a plan for that or anything. To find out they did it to everyone to help pay for repairs!! That was BS!!

Well now that power is back I got a lot done just figuring out wires (which I never knew how much thought went into hiding them) then picture time and leak test


----------



## idaWHALE

yeah i used to live in vb and the power stability was TERRIBLE


----------



## Bradford1040

I have seen some of you Guy's and Gal's use the frozenQ Res as a pass through (that is in bottom and out the top)

How well does that work out? I have the t-virus and am thinking of adding the micro Res and using the FQ as a pass through. Tell me what you think. Or is it just better off using it normal?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kiwiasian

Hey guys what do you think of this fan controller for controlling 6x CM SickleFlow 120's OR 6x AP-14's (on an RX360)


----------



## Bradford1040

I myself, would go for the fc-6 with out the screen but it is a good control, but also watch the output Watts some of those screen style ones only put out 10~15 Watts


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13639062*
> Hey guys what do you think of this fan controller for controlling 6x CM SickleFlow 120's OR 6x AP-14's (on an RX360)


No problem whatsoever..it's rated for 30w per channel x 4. AP-14s draw 4.75 watts ea. maximum. You'll be able to run all of your rad fans and most likely all of your case fans too.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

page 1111  (for us normal people)


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


Hey guys what do you think of this fan controller for controlling 6x CM SickleFlow 120's OR 6x AP-14's (on an RX360)











That one looks cool. Should be ok to control 2-3 fans per channel


----------



## Norlig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


Hey guys what do you think of this fan controller for controlling 6x CM SickleFlow 120's OR 6x AP-14's (on an RX360)











Im using this one and I\\m Very satisfied with it


----------



## rheicel

nice rig


----------



## Boyboyd

Noob question. What powers the fan controller? 1 molex plug?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Noob question. What powers the fan controller? 1 molex plug?


Yep


----------



## Boyboyd

I might have to get one. I've run out of 3 pin fan headers and i don't like using those adaptors that come with.

Saying that, GTs are pretty quiet anyway.


----------



## Alex132

I have all my fans plugged into my fan controller, only got a fan RPM header plugged into the CPUPWM fan plug, otherwise my motherboard says "CPU FAN ERROR" and refuses to boot XD


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


Hey guys what do you think of this fan controller for controlling 6x CM SickleFlow 120's OR 6x AP-14's (on an RX360)











I just got this fan controller, Its really amazing, 
ONLY problem, is that wheras most fan controllers have 2 sets of holes to attatch it to the case
this only has one set of holes
so in my 800d, when i screw it in, its pushed in about 1cm and is not flush with the front of the case

otherwise it hands loads very well and the display is epic

(here is where it fails in my 800d, wil have to drill some more holes in the future) - bad pic
http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/...525_121027.jpg


----------



## bundymania

Testing new EK GTX580+ Waterblock....


----------



## zalbard

These are a lot more restrictive than the old ones, aren't they?


----------



## kiwiasian

Question:
If I daisy chain all 6 rad fans to one channel on the FC5V2, won't the RPM readings get messed up? Since all 6 RPM wires are getting combined into one?


----------



## antipesto93

Just only have the First fan in the chain with the rpm sensor, and just make sure the second fan has the rpm cable removed from the plug,


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


I have all my fans plugged into my fan controller, only got a fan RPM header plugged into the CPUPWM fan plug, otherwise my motherboard says "CPU FAN ERROR" and refuses to boot XD


I got the cpu fan error when I powered on for the first time after putting my loop together. I disabled that check in the bios and its been fine ever since


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antipesto93*


I just got this fan controller, Its really amazing, 
ONLY problem, is that wheras most fan controllers have 2 sets of holes to attatch it to the case
this only has one set of holes
so in my 800d, when i screw it in, its pushed in about 1cm and is not flush with the front of the case

otherwise it hands loads very well and the display is epic

(here is where it fails in my 800d, wil have to drill some more holes in the future) - bad pic


Must be that way with all lamptron controllers. I have the full touch screen model, lamptron fct iirc, and it sits back like that in my 800d also. Next time I have the case torn apart, this weekend maybe, I'm going to drill new holes for it as well


----------



## MrJackson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


I have all my fans plugged into my fan controller, only got a fan RPM header plugged into the CPUPWM fan plug, otherwise my motherboard says "CPU FAN ERROR" and refuses to boot XD


I added a RPM wire to my D5 pump and plugged it into the CPU Fan header to take care of that, it's also nice to have it monitored in case the pump dies.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


I have all my fans plugged into my fan controller, only got a fan RPM header plugged into the CPUPWM fan plug, otherwise my motherboard says "CPU FAN ERROR" and refuses to boot XD


I know ASUS Crosshair IV Formula/Extreme boards have this feature... maybe you can check, but I am able to disable that checking feature within my BIOS. I believe it is under "Fan Monitoring" or "Fan Management" for us.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I know ASUS Crosshair IV Formula/Extreme boards have this feature... maybe you can check, but I am able to disable that checking feature within my BIOS. I believe it is under "Fan Monitoring" or "Fan Management" for us.


Yeah I have checked and will sort it out along with trying to tweak some VCCIO settings some time


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13640512*
> page 1111  (for us normal people)


Pshh, 100 post per page or you're not doing it right


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13643665*
> Yeah I have checked and will sort it out along with trying to tweak some VCCIO settings some time


I do use the CPU fan header though. My pump (non-variable MCP655) is connected there and as long as I see 4200+ RPM reported, I know the pump is working. I need to look at that RPM reading because the pump is dead silent.


----------



## veblen

More rigs to add to the club!

Here's my ABS Canyon 595:























































And here's my mATX build. I know one of the tubes is kinked and it's time to change the tubes; it's taking on a green tinge.







Will be moving to 7/16-5/8 tubing once I get rid of my 3/8-1/2 comp fittings.


----------



## kiwiasian

What size tubing (ID and OD) is that in your ABS Canyon 595?


----------



## veblen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13647275*
> What size tubing (ID and OD) is that in your ABS Canyon 595?


3/8" ID, 1/2" OD. Am thinking of switching to 7/16-5/8 but I'll have to get new comp fittings.


----------



## Boyboyd

How come you're thinking of switching?


----------



## veblen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13647325*
> How come you're thinking of switching?


It looks a little spaghetti-like; too much slack.


----------



## Boyboyd

I think that's just because there's a lot of tubing.

You could go all out and get 1/2" ID


----------



## _TwIsTeD_

I'm in! Sorry if re-post didnt see name on list.








Internal Black Ice stealth 240, Swiftech MCP655-B, Primochill Myriad D5 Dual Bay Reservoir, and Apogee XT (Rev 2). More pics to come, bad quality take with my phone.


----------



## Boyboyd

Nice tubing. Is that a dye or the actual tubing? I sometimes wish i'd waited and gotten white tubing, but it's out of stock everywhere.


----------



## Alex132

So thats exactly what Im doing to my 800D now. RS360+UV tubing+Uv lighting XD


----------



## Boyboyd

Post pics. I completely forgot i ordered UV tubing, and i have these lights from my first ever build.

Also, i'm a GT fanboy now. And due to a shipping error, i got twice the number i ordered.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

More upgrades!

sleeved the 24 pin and board 8 pin cables, mounted my ssd on the motherboard tray and made a custom aluminum plate with switch for the red cold cathode.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


So thats exactly what Im doing to my 800D now. RS360+UV tubing+Uv lighting XD


Here's what I'm doing to mine, I'll have it home and ready to put the loop together next week


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13650794*
> Here's what I'm doing to mine, I'll have it home and ready to put the loop together next week












that color...

it's beautiful.










can't wait to see it all together!


----------



## MrJackson

It's together and 100% working, still have lots of cleanup to do.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*











that color...

it's beautiful.










can't wait to see it all together!


Thanks!







Should be next weekend...


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrJackson*


It's together and 100% working, still have lots of cleanup to do.










water works!.... I would have done it with half the tubing and without the huge loop on the GPUs, recommend getting a bridge.

Good work for the most part


----------



## Genesis.au

My first water cooling build, RX360 in PC-K62 case


----------



## KShirza1

[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/580/05271112.jpg/]


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Post pics. I completely forgot i ordered UV tubing, and i have these lights from my first ever build.

Also, i'm a GT fanboy now. And due to a shipping error, i got twice the number i ordered.


Send 3 to me?









Push/Pull worth it?


----------



## Boyboyd

Push/Pull is always worth it if your fans are quiet enough.

Sadly i'm using all my GT-s, and one scythe slipstream. lol


----------



## Alex132

Weird haha, Got 3 CoolerMaster SickleFlows. Not sure if they will be good with WC or not :/
The RS360 Kit comes with fans any way, just think they might be rather loud (1850rpm Sythes IIRC)


----------



## Boyboyd

I'm using 2 and they're only slightly louder than AP-15s.

I'm not sure of their exact stats though.


----------



## Alex132

Everyone overrates AP-15's, sure they're great but people tend to spend too much on them sometimes. (eg someone is spending $55 shipping for just 4 of them here in SA)


----------



## Boyboyd

They are good, but they're not exactly the second coming of Jesus.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


They are good, but they're not exactly the second coming of Jesus.


Or Holy Hooves as I call him XD

---

Is it true that watercooling (ergo lower temps) means that you should be able to get the same overclock at less volts?


----------



## MrJackson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;13651605*
> water works!.... I would have done it with half the tubing and without the huge loop on the GPUs, recommend getting a bridge.
> 
> Good work for the most part


They're universal GPU blocks, I don't think I can do a normal bridge. I do plan on fixing it once i measure the spacing and find the right pieces.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrJackson;13653694*
> They're universal GPU blocks, I don't think I can do a normal bridge. I do plan on fixing it once i measure the spacing and find the right pieces.


I wouldn't get to upset over it, it looks ok. But to fix with sli fitting is not hard or expensive if you use 4 bitspower single rotary 90° fitting and your choice of sli tubes koolance is very good adjustable sli tubes. There are other ways but that is about the cheapest


----------



## luke997

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13653784*
> I wouldn't get to upset over it, it looks ok. But to fix with sli fitting is not hard or expensive if you use 4 bitspower single rotary 90° fitting and your choice of sli tubes koolance is very good adjustable sli tubes. There are other ways but that is about the cheapest


+1 on BP 90 rotaries, you can add BP Crystal links to it and you're all set.
Each set has 3 tubes with different length so it's easy to fit in non-standard setup.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13653596*
> Is it true that watercooling (ergo lower temps) means that you should be able to get the same overclock at less volts?


yes, it can be. not always, but it does happen.


----------



## kiwiasian

How much (net total) have you spent on your current rig water cooling system?

I'm about to drop $700 which I think is way too much...


----------



## Rognin

Alright, my first computer build and I went with a WC solution.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Leak testing









First post











Build log linky


----------



## Onions

nice







and way to use spoiler tags







makes it easy to load pages. Kevin i think everyone posting pics should have to do that +rep for nice posting


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13654580*
> How much (net total) have you spent on your current rig water cooling system?
> 
> I'm about to drop $700 which I think is way too much...


It may sound like a lot but I think that the longevity of a water cooling system (with proper maintenance) is way better than that of an air cooler. This helps in "justifying" the investment when compared to time.

But yes, the initial investment, if all is done right, can and will be high.


----------



## Onions

well lets see....
ive got 5 pumps







about 200 bucks spent there
pump top about 50
360 rad and 240 rad about 200 there
fans... untold
cpu blocks 120 bucks worth
gpu blocks about 400 worth
chipset asbout 200 worth
res about 100 worth
so yea alot but ihave two systems and a boat load of good memories


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13654914*
> well lets see....
> ive got 5 pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about 200 bucks spent there
> pump top about 50
> 360 rad and 240 rad about 200 there
> fans... untold
> cpu blocks 120 bucks worth
> gpu blocks about 400 worth
> chipset asbout 200 worth
> res about 100 worth
> so yea alot but ihave two systems and a boat load of good memories


5 pumps !?


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13654914*
> well lets see....
> ive got 5 pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about 200 bucks spent there
> pump top about 50
> 360 rad and 240 rad about 200 there
> fans... untold
> cpu blocks 120 bucks worth
> gpu blocks about 400 worth
> chipset asbout 200 worth
> res about 100 worth
> so yea alot but ihave two systems and a boat load of good memories


So that's roughly $600 for two systems. I suppose that isn't too bad.

Can you check my water cooling list?
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1026405-help-review-my-water-cooling-shopping.html

Thanks


----------



## Mongol

Over $1200. D:


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13654947*
> So that's roughly $600 for two systems. I suppose that isn't too bad.
> 
> Can you check my water cooling list?
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1026405-help-review-my-water-cooling-shopping.html
> 
> Thanks


why would you get the kit and another cpu block??


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13655130*
> why would you get the kit and another cpu block??


..?
I didn't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13650217*
> -EK *VGA* Supreme HF x2 $125.98


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13654296*
> yes, it can be. not always, but it does happen.


The lower temps can also reduce component fatigue at the extreme end of the OC spectrum, but sometimes the voltage will cause fatigue regardless of temp so it's like Keving said, sometimes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13655130*
> why would you get the kit and another cpu block??


He added 2x EK VGA blocks...

Edit: Also, your post was misleading, you don't have a $700 loop, you have a HAFX in there! Your $200 loop is pretty much on par with what you will spend for a mid-level loop. Also, you can save a few bucks and go with Yate Loons...


----------



## Onions

lol ooops my bad but your gonna need a stronger pump then the one that comes with the kit
and more rad space


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13655193*
> lol ooops my bad but your gonna need a stronger pump then the one that comes with the kit
> and more rad space


He can survive on one RX360 but it won't be too great in the temp department, but it's possible. You're probably right on the pump though, you're adding two very restrictive GPU blocks.


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13655219*
> He can survive on one RX360 but it won't be too great in the temp department, but it's possible. You're probably right on the pump though, you're adding two very restrictive GPU blocks.


I have a Slim 360mm
delta V3
and a 480 Full cover block

on the exact same pump, and i would not add anything else to it as i am pretty sure it is struggling


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13655161*
> Edit: Also, your post was misleading, you don't have a $700 loop, you have a HAFX in there! Your $200 loop is pretty much on par with what you will spend for a mid-level loop. Also, you can save a few bucks and go with Yate Loons...


Sorry, when calcualating prices I like to calculate out-of-pocket price, or absolutely everything that I need for any particular investment, in this case water cooling.

I was looking at a huge fan round up in this forum and Yate Loons and the CM's perform roughly the same. So I opted for the CM's because I like the look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13655193*
> lol ooops my bad but your gonna need a stronger pump then the one that comes with the kit
> and more rad space


Dammit.
What if I excluded one GPU from the loop?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13655219*
> He can survive on one RX360 but it won't be too great in the temp department, but it's possible. You're probably right on the pump though, you're adding two very restrictive GPU blocks.


Can you give a rough estimate of how high my temps would be, versus having a 480 rad (or the like)?
I think I'll use an intake on the 360 rad to suck in cold air from outside, rather than using it as an exhaust so that my temps are slightly better.


----------



## Onions

just get one of these
http://www.overclock.net/cooling-products/898129-mcp350-pumps-ddc-1-35-shipped.html


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Kahbrohn

Bundy...

STOP!

Does that come in a size GTX460????







Even the backplate on that thing looks sexy!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13654580*
> How much (net total) have you spent on your current rig water cooling system?
> 
> I'm about to drop $700 which I think is way too much...


I have spent $1,700. But the start up cost for my HAF 922 on water with CPU and (2) GPU's was just over 700 as well so I would say just make sure what ever you are getting is worth the price as there are kits with good and bad in there set up. I would just research the CPU and pump. I started with the swiftech kit as the apogee xt was good and the D5 pump well is legendary!

PS edit : the swiftech 240mm Rad worked excellent with push pull


----------



## Hotcupofcocoa

Got my new rig installed; just wanna spread my joy


----------



## Bradford1040

When I screw up, I make sure I do it good!
I did not check the screw length on 2 screw and leak test provided signs of me messing up lol! Now the bad part it is holiday weekend so no rush order no Rad shops open so just going to pull that Rad and run it without the extra 240mm in the front! I guess I will not make that mistake again!!! Lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## MrJackson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


When I screw up, I make sure I do it good!
I did not check the screw length on 2 screw and leak test provided signs of me messing up lol! Now the bad part it is holiday weekend so no rush order no Rad shops open so just going to pull that Rad and run it without the extra 240mm in the front! I guess I will not make that mistake again!!! Lol


All rads should have screw stops like the GTS120, that would save many problems.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


Dammit.
What if I excluded one GPU from the loop?

Can you give a rough estimate of how high my temps would be, versus having a 480 rad (or the like)?
I think I'll use an intake on the 360 rad to suck in cold air from outside, rather than using it as an exhaust so that my temps are slightly better.


Well, the best example I can give is my Swiftech RX360 with 5 Yates on it (SH's on low)- I have my 570 and 8800 folding around 55C and I have my CPU idling. I would say you'd have slightly more heat from the GPUs and definitely more from the CPU. I'd say you'd be looking at 55-60C loaded across all three parts. I should clarify that I'm seeing that as a 25-30C delta from the air in/water temp. Adding a 480 would probably drop ~5C off each part, a second 360 would probably drop you to a 10-15C delta.


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13647708*
> Nice tubing. Is that a dye or the actual tubing? I sometimes wish i'd waited and gotten white tubing, but it's out of stock everywhere.


That is beautiful might i ask what you're using? i assume feser orange tubing and a purple cathode?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13666168*
> That is beautiful might i ask what you're using? i assume feser orange tubing and a purple cathode?


Thanks. It's XSPC 7/16" ID UV orange tubing and 2 UV cold cathodes.


----------



## Timechange01

Updated my loop a bit:














































Ignore the power wire going to the bottom GPU. Im using a temporary PSU. Also some of the paint came off from a few of the fittings. I didn't feel like ordering new ones. Since I was working on this for hours, I was just desperate to get the job done lol


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13666210*
> Thanks. It's XSPC 7/16" ID UV orange tubing and 2 UV cold cathodes.


NP. Might i asked where you ordered? I did a quick google only known site i seen it pop up on would be jabtech and OFC they would be sold out. Really want some 7/16TH orange UV tubing.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timechange01;13668621*
> Updated my loop a bit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the power wire going to the bottom GPU. Im using a temporary PSU. Also some of the paint came off from a few of the fittings. I didn't feel like ordering new ones. Since I was working on this for hours, I was just desperate to get the job done lol


u do know that when u have the second GPU, in the middle slot its only runing at x8 in sli, and if you have it in the buttom PCI-E then both of your GPUS will have x16


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;13669089*
> u do know that when u have the second GPU, in the middle slot its only runing at x8 in sli, and if you have it in the buttom PCI-E then both of your GPUS will have x16


Not all motherboards are the same. Heres the manual from mine:










If I could use the bottom slot, I would have to give the GPUs more clearance. Nobody in their right mind would willingly use the middle slot unless they had to


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;13669089*
> u do know that when u have the second GPU, in the middle slot its only runing at x8 in sli, and if you have it in the buttom PCI-E then both of your GPUS will have x16


Wrong... EVGA FTW3 and SLI 758 boards are both 16x - 16x/8x - 8x going from top to bottom

I run my two cards in the top to most 16x slots and so does everyone else, that is doing it correctly


----------



## ASSAD101

Just Rasa kit, with an extra Black ice GT240. Add me


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASSAD101;13673997*
> 
> Just Rasa kit, with an extra Black ice GT240. Add me


wow you joined in 2009 and have only 4 posts?

Nice rig btw sorry that should of been first


----------



## ASSAD101

Haha cheers, i registered thinking that i would use the site heaps and then completely forgot about it D:


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASSAD101;13674124*
> Haha cheers, i registered thinking that i would use the site heaps and then completely forgot about it D:


thats fine I just never seen anyone that belonged that long without posting lol, I did not mean anything bad by it. I really do like the rig I just moved out of my CM HAF 922 and into Lian Li A70B but that is one good looking CM


----------



## wermad

8x vs 16x will see little difference on a single gpu card. Drop in a dual gpu card (ie 9800x2, 4870x2, gtx 295, 5970, gtx 590, 6990) and you'll definitely wanna run 16x.


----------



## Vertix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASSAD101;13673997*
> 
> Just Rasa kit, with an extra Black ice GT240. Add me


Awesome rig, well done!


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

I call this Brown Chicken Brown Cow Version 2.0


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

If Bundy can do it, so can I!









Custom Koolance RP-452x2 modded by FannBlade as part of my Shelby Cobra build...


----------



## coolhandluke41

that's impressive,i didn't follow your worklog ,is this Shelby theme ?
never mind..it is.lol


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*


that's impressive,i didn't follow your worklog ,is this Shelby theme ?
never mind..it is.lol


Thanks, you should definitely check out the log (link in my sig) there are a TON more pics, I'm a little biased but I think it's a good one!


----------



## coolhandluke41

without even reading,just by looking at the pictures ...man.. you could tell 
great job Saltwater


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*


without even reading,just by looking at the pictures ...man.. you could tell 
great job Saltwater


Thanks, FannBlade deserves a ton of credit/gratitude for making my vision a reality, his talents really are second to none! I'm glad you like it/recognize the theme, that res really is a focal point. I think the bumpers and distinctive shape set it off perhaps even more than the stripes...


----------



## RushMore1205

New Build for a customer

please let me know what you think?????


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL;13679747*
> I call this Brown Chicken Brown Cow Version 2.0


It goes res->rad->pump??? For some reason this doesn't seem very optimal, but if it works then keep on trucking.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;13683504*
> New Build for a customer
> 
> please let me know what you think?????


Sleeving looks ugly, you've could've alternated the colors and blue grills look better with black fans in my opinion.


----------



## bundymania

This block is massive....


----------



## masonkian

woot

that block is amazing and huge

what sort of temps


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13684775*
> This block is massive....


how well do they work? against say koolance block, as that has been my block of choice so far. I liked the bitspower but was told they did not cool very well? I am not stating a fact more a question


----------



## masonkian

looks great


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

@ Rushmore, I don't like the exposed fans on the top, but that's my preference, the blue grill is cool though.

@ Bundy, is that block single slot or wider? As usual, your bench looks amazing!


----------



## veblen

Here's my updated Raven RV02:

I (always) use distilled water and PT Nuke...the red coloring came from my Danger Den (red/black) reservoir; yes, it bleeds, like throwing in a red T-shirt along with whites in your laundry.























































And here's my CM 690 II Advanced:


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

That sleeving looks awesome, I can't believe how much that res bled though?!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

WOW what??? what from? dye in the material of the res?

have you talked to DD about this?


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;13683782*
> It goes res->rad->pump??? For some reason this doesn't seem very optimal, but if it works then keep on trucking.


Yessir. I've had it running in that sequence for years without any problems. What's the ideal setup?


----------



## Alex132

Ooooh this thread is compelling me to spend money on watercooling!
Sadly $170 shipping + tax is NOT nice!


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Ooooh this thread is compelling me to spend money on watercooling!
Sadly $170 shipping + tax is NOT nice!


It's not that bad.

Unless you mean that it's $170 just for shipping.


----------



## Alex132

$330 for parts, $170 for shipping.
Unless there are places that are cheaper, I am looking at performance pc, I know they ship internationally.


----------



## saint19

1- Frozen CPU
2- Sidewindercomputers
3- Jab-Tech (very good one)

All those also ship internationally.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13690266*
> $330 for parts, $170 for shipping.
> Unless there are places that are cheaper, i am looking at performance pc, i know they ship internationally.


:0


----------



## Alex132

Kinda newish to the whole parts, was looking at EK-HF acterial, RX360 + 10ft UV blue tubing, PT-nuke and not sure about the pump/res


----------



## saint19

I'm using a MCP655-D with a 360 radiator for only CPU plus this reservoir: http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic-Tan...5-pr-4665.html


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;13690290*
> 1- Frozen CPU
> 2- Sidewindercomputers
> 3- Jab-Tech (very good one)
> 
> All those also ship internationally.


and specialtech based in the UK


----------



## veblen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


That sleeving looks awesome, I can't believe how much that res bled though?!


Indeed! It started out as a light red then it got deeper over time.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


WOW what??? what from? dye in the material of the res?

have you talked to DD about this?


That's right; from the dye in the material of the res. I haven't mentioned this to DD; perhaps I should.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL*


Yessir. I've had it running in that sequence for years without any problems. What's the ideal setup?


Wall of text alert









What I was taught/read is that the res should be feeding the pump. Since you're pushing the water into the res then rad then it's just flowing into the rad and I would assume there would be a pretty decent drop in flow rate. My setup is res->pump->rad->blocks and back to res to feed the pump.

I could be wrong, but if it works then like I said keep on trucking. It just doesn't seem optimal, unless there is pressure in that res so the flow rate doesn't drop off it doesn't make sense or I just don't understand how it works. IIRC these pumps need to be fed water because they don't suck in water.

Basically it doesn't seem like flow rate would be very good with the pump pushing the water into the res then flowing into the radiator because the water has to be pushed through it. Or it could be that it's a small loop and it doesn't matter.

What are your temps like?


----------



## Alex132

What watercooling parts could you recommend me?
RX360 + EK HF Acterial + UV Blue tubing + pump + res + other stuff









Really can't go wrong as I can't send stuff back (I dont think)


----------



## Triangle

I would also recommend the SR-1 rads. That CPU block is nice. Primochill Primoflex is nice tubing. Do you plan on using barbs or compression fittings? I like Bitspower barbs and compressions. Good pumps are - MCP-355, MCP-655, MCP-35x, Danger Den CPX-Pro (Jingway Pump). Res depends on weather you want to have a bay res or a cylindrical type res. What fans will you plan on using on your rad? GT's are great if you don't care if you spend some money, but for budget you could just get some Yate Loon's.


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13690373*
> What watercooling parts could you recommend me?
> RX360 + EK HF Acterial + UV Blue tubing + pump + res + other stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really can't go wrong as I can't send stuff back (I dont think)


please don't jump on the RX series rad bandwagon unless it is the best rad for your situation. As you can see there is probably a better choice for the rpm fans you plan to run (if you know yet). IMO the RX rads have a noticeably inferior build quality to Hardware labs and TFC rads.









*
Pump:* I would get either a 35x or a 655. 355s are great, especially with an aftermarket top, but nothing compares to an uber modded 655.
*Res:* Doesn't matter, but I hate bay reservoirs except for the koolance one since they feel cheap. The Phobya Balancer 450 Reservoir I just got in is AMAZING. Best build quality of anyone that I've owned (frozen q, koolance, xspc). It does come in smaller sizes if you don't need such a monster.
*Tubing:* Primoflex is great. All I use after trying tygon, koolance, and feser
*Fans:* Gentle Typhoons, Noiseblockers, Yates (depending how much you want to spend and whether 120mm rads or 140 mm ones)
*Fittings:* bitspower compression fittings, but if you don't want to spend that much any barbs will do. Feser ones are cheap and good.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


Pump:[/B] I would get either a 35x or a 655
*Tubing:* Primoflex is great. All I use after trying tygon, koolance, and feser
*Fans:* Gentle Typhoons, Noiseblockers, Yates (depending how much you want to spend and whether 120mm rads or 140 mm ones)
*Fittings:* bitspower compression fittings, but if you don't want to spend that much any barbs will do. Feser ones are cheap and good.


Pump: 655 if you don't want to buy an additional top. (it's stock with 1/2" barbs where the 355 is not)
Tubing: Agree on the Primoflex, I use 7/16" ID stretched over 1/2" barbs and I run that clampless.
Fans: I like Yates for the price... Otherwise GT/NB are great.
Fittings: I go for barbs and clampless look myself, I had compressions and decided I didn't like them that much.


----------



## Alex132

About how far I have come so far (LOL shipping)

Can't find 7/16ID tubing / PrimoChill on that site.
I am open to any res really, also how good are the CoolerMaster Sickleflow's for watercooling?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I'd opt out of the EK supreme in nickel with the current problems that are going around. The Koolance 370 would be comparable if you want nickel, but the Supreme in copper would be fine. I would get a different bay res if you have the money for it as well. What fans do you plan to run with that rad?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13690983*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about how far i have come so far (lol shipping)
> 
> can't find 7/16id tubing / primochill on that site.
> I am open to any res really, also how good are the coolermaster sickleflow's for watercooling?


holy moly 98$ shipping


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


please don't jump on the RX series rad bandwagon unless it is the best rad for your situation. As you can see there is probably a better choice for the rpm fans you plan to run (if you know yet). IMO the RX rads have a noticeably inferior build quality to Hardware labs and TFC rads.









*
Pump:* I would get either a 35x or a 655. 355s are great, especially with an aftermarket top, but nothing compares to an uber modded 655.
*Res:* Doesn't matter, but I hate bay reservoirs except for the koolance one since they feel cheap. The Phobya Balancer 450 Reservoir I just got in is AMAZING. Best build quality of anyone that I've owned (frozen q, koolance, xspc). It does come in smaller sizes if you don't need such a monster.
*Tubing:* Primoflex is great. All I use after trying tygon, koolance, and feser
*Fans:* Gentle Typhoons, Noiseblockers, Yates (depending how much you want to spend and whether 120mm rads or 140 mm ones)
*Fittings:* bitspower compression fittings, but if you don't want to spend that much any barbs will do. Feser ones are cheap and good.



if i understand this right the gtx360 HWL is the best for the Gentle Typhoon ap-15 right?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


I'd opt out of the EK supreme in nickel with the current problems that are going around. The Koolance 370 would be comparable if you want nickel, but the Supreme in copper would be fine. I would get a different bay res if you have the money for it as well. What fans do you plan to run with that rad?


Got 3 of these now + fan controller (no LED) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-091-_-Product
I'll go with the all copper EK-HF block then thanks


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;13691041*
> if i understand this right the gtx360 HWL is the best for the Gentle Typhoon ap-15 right?


Yes, at pretty much anything over 9V.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13691063*
> Got 3 of these now + fan controller (no LED) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091&cm_re=sickleflow-_-35-103-091-_-Product
> I'll go with the all copper EK-HF block then thanks


HW Labs GTX series rads will perform significantly better than the RX with those fans. Should be around .5C cooler using the GTX series over the RX


----------



## mdatmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;13691041*
> if i understand this right the gtx360 HWL is the best for the Gentle Typhoon ap-15 right?


Yes, for fans greater than ~1500 RPM the HWL GTX really pulls away in terms of performance. It is more restrictive than other rads, but not overly so.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

cooler master sickleflow fans push 69CFM and have good static pressure but they are very noisy and make a winning sound, for my thermochill pa120.3 noctuas NF-P12-1300 are super.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;13690362*
> Wall of text alert
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I was taught/read is that the res should be feeding the pump. Since you're pushing the water into the res then rad then it's just flowing into the rad and I would assume there would be a pretty decent drop in flow rate. My setup is res->pump->rad->blocks and back to res to feed the pump.
> 
> I could be wrong, but if it works then like I said keep on trucking. It just doesn't seem optimal, unless there is pressure in that res so the flow rate doesn't drop off it doesn't make sense or I just don't understand how it works. IIRC these pumps need to be fed water because they don't suck in water.
> 
> Basically it doesn't seem like flow rate would be very good with the pump pushing the water into the res then flowing into the radiator because the water has to be pushed through it. Or it could be that it's a small loop and it doesn't matter.
> 
> What are your temps like?


Thanks for the info! +Rep

It hovers between 57 and 58C under load. Ambient temp is 26C. My setup is temporary until I get a GPU block and the BitsPower dressup kit for the pump. I'll rework the flow to your setup once I get the new stuff in and see if there are any differences.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;13691412*
> cooler master sickleflow fans push 69CFM and have good static pressure but they are very noisy and make a winning sound, for my thermochill pa120.3 noctuas NF-P12-1300 are super.


R4's have have the same CFM but they're only 19 dBa
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103061&cm_re=r4-_-35-103-061-_-Product
They're cheaper than Gentle typhoons and perform about on par with them


----------



## Mongol

I had [email protected] rpm maybe...when they're pushed to 1900/2000 its more like 30+db. (And they tend to rattle...sleeve/rifle bearings aren't a fan of horizontal placement)


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;13691685*
> I had [email protected] rpm maybe...when they're pushed to 1900/2000 its more like 30+db. (And they tend to rattle...sleeve/rifle bearings aren't a fan of horizontal placement)


i dissagree. i have r4 in my build and i absolutly love them, they are quite and very powerfull, i have them on shrouds too

they are just very very good looking and performing fans, im very happy with them, i think you should use them if you dont have the money for the ap-15


----------



## Mongol

Maybe I had a lousy batch then...after a time with them the rattle drove me bonkers.


----------



## Onions

i lvoe my r4s i have purchasd over a 100 of the for customer builds









ps im looking for 2 or 3 quad rads for an upcoming build anyone got any recommendations... im looking to save money so i can get 3 but if two will be good then w/e...


----------



## saint19

I also have R4 fans for my radiator, but mines comes with Blue LEDs: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103060


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13694097*
> i lvoe my r4s i have purchasd over a 100 of the for customer builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps im looking for 2 or 3 quad rads for an upcoming build anyone got any recommendations... im looking to save money so i can get 3 but if two will be good then w/e...


RX480 have worked beautifully for me and their price is pretty competitive for 480mm rads


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13694524*
> RX480 have worked beautifully for me and their price is pretty competitive for 480mm rads


will they work good with the fans from that group buy we are doing?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13694545*
> will they work good with the fans from that group buy we are doing?


they work best with fans up to 1500k. I'm running yates medium and they usually hover ~1.2-1.3k @ 12v.


----------



## Onions

so lower rpm fans are better? i think the ones in the buy are 2150 rpm?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13695952*
> so lower rpm fans are better? i think the ones in the buy are 2150 rpm?


go with the BI then


----------



## Onions

the gtx ones?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13695952*
> so lower rpm fans are better? i think the ones in the buy are 2150 rpm?


RS series -> higher rpm fans
RX series -> lower speed fans

Do not underestimate the power of a fan controller.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13696381*
> the gtx ones?


Yes, over 1500 rpm that is the best rad to buy


----------



## antipesto93

while everyone is talking about fans....

I have a BlackIce Stealth 360mm, very high fin density

i have push-pull AC Ryan BlackFires, 1000rpm (or they are too loud for me)

I am guessing i need a new rad?


----------



## soulster

get the XSPC rads, <8 fins per inch = very good for low rpm fans.


----------



## Retrolock

@rushmore1205, nice setup but don't you close the side panel anymore? A cat might snuggle into your case


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13697379*
> Yes, over 1500 rpm that is the best rad to buy


Surely then the RX360 would be better for my fans? There is no way I am running them at 2000RPM 24/7 due to the noise


----------



## Freakn

Got my 6970's under water and playing with them a bit





looks alot better inside now.



still alot of work to go but aleast its all in its final location.

need to finish mounting the rads, locate another 2 hdd's inside the case, swap the 2 360's around, mount the other fans, create custom grill in 5 1/2" bays, change PSU mount to fit longer PSU in and paint the 120 rad


----------



## antipesto93

WOW that build is madddd
2 360's and a 120, and no drive bays lol,
i think you need a new case!


----------



## Freakn

Case is fine, just gonna pickup a usb3 bluray drive and its all sweet.

Currently 5 HDD's mounted inside. Found space for atleast another 2


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Freakn*


Got my 6970's under water and playing with them a bit

looks alot better inside now.

still alot of work to go but aleast its all in its final location.

need to finish mounting the rads, locate another 2 hdd's inside the case, swap the 2 360's around, mount the other fans, create custom grill in 5 1/2" bays, change PSU mount to fit longer PSU in and paint the 120 rad



looks good, are the fans on that very beat up looking 120 stacked together?


----------



## Yukss

here is mine..

aqui la mia, tiempo sin postearla










































my new R.A.T.5


----------



## AdvanSuper

My brain hurts from looking at that mouse


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

My brother has a RAT 7, I'm not a fan.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

EDIT I have a question 8c over ambient temp is good or just ok?

I have the rat 9 and can tell you that it is a great mouse. I love the pinky drag attachment, and plus it really is customizable to you feel. I also like the precision aim button and just all'in'all great mouse

PS I would get the 7 rather than 9 if I had it to do over as it does come with two battery's but they only last about 8 hours each, it is just a pain every day changing it out but I guess that is to be expected with cordless


----------



## grishkathefool

8C over Ambient at Full Load? Sounds good to me!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grishkathefool;13704685*
> 8C over Ambient at Full Load? Sounds good to me!


no at idle, load is not that far off though it doesn't rise much with the indigo extreme stuff

but i was expecting to get lower idle temps with it as well. now my PC runs24/7 and the thing is OC'ED on all corners, as I said load temps are what I expected it is idle that is confusing me


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## Bradford1040

the sour patch exploders are much better than the regular ones IMHO lol

Charleston Chews are excellent! is that what you were asking right ??? lol

I think you are also forgetting to put the parts in the case but to each his own lol


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;13707046*
> *pics*


Uh oh, what's next?!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13708173*
> Uh oh, what's next?!


Stick around and find out


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> I have the rat 9 and can tell you that it is a great mouse. I love the pinky drag attachment, and plus it really is customizable to you feel. I also like the precision aim button and just all'in'all great mouse
> 
> PS I would get the 7 rather than 9 if I had it to do over as it does come with two battery's but they only last about 8 hours each, it is just a pain every day changing it out but I guess that is to be expected with cordless


that´s the reason i bougth the 5 and not the 9, (and why not the 7) that´s because i dont use over 4000 dpi... it has few new stuff but the 5 do the job and is unbelivable confortable..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## godofdeath

you seriously need light in that picture


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;13708217*
> Stick around and find out


Ehh, maybe









Can't wait!


----------



## Retrolock

Probably it's not worth it to add the gpu to the loop


----------



## SmasherBasher

These are folding rigs. Cable management was not done. Fancy tubing routing was not done.


































Both are i7 2600K @ 5ghz. XSPC Rasa RX 360 kits. Load temps around 70*C at 1.45 V

System on the left has 2x Asus GTX 580 Direct CU II
System on the right has one GPU (same.)


----------



## Bradford1040

now that just pisses me off lol! smasherbasher you suck lol I am killing myself just to have a medium main system and a just ok LAN rig and you have two monster machines! OH yeah by the way I just use these for folding, and they are twice what most have in just one machine alone lol


----------



## Skiivari

Yay!
Got my loop sort of done.
Rad from some big freezer
Pump; eheim 600, 22euros
Block: HK 3.0 LC
load temps @ 4.2 and 1.5vcore: 50C
Still need to make a backplate and stuff but it works!
Funny thing, I was starting p95 for the first time with wc, and I was waiting for it to "start" and I wondered how long it will take until I realised that my cpu fan doesn't shreek any more








pic: http://i51.tinypic.com/2mglb8l.jpg
EDIT: GNNGHH 199 posts!


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skiivari;13715157*
> Yay!
> Got my loop sort of done.
> Rad from some big freezer
> Pump; eheim 600, 22euros
> Block: HK 3.0 LC
> load temps @ 4.2 and 1.5vcore: 50C
> Still need to make a backplate and stuff but it works!
> Funny thing, I was starting p95 for the first time with wc, and I was waiting for it to "start" and I wondered how long it will take until I realised that my cpu fan doesn't shreek any more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pic: http://i51.tinypic.com/2mglb8l.jpg
> EDIT: GNNGHH 199 posts!


this is the definition of ghetto rigging


----------



## Alex132

Stepdad going to London on Saturday (maybe) if he does I may just ask him to get watercooling parts then xD!

I heard that mixing Cu and Al is bad in a loop, seeing as I will have a CPU-only loop would there be any worries in getting the Copper EK-HF? Would the copper finish also tarnish over time?


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13715277*
> Stepdad going to London on Saturday (maybe) if he does I may just ask him to get watercooling parts then xD!


i live in london, the only road with computer shops is Tottenham court road, NONE of them sell enthusiast computer parts,

the ONLY shop is this
http://www.yoyotech.co.uk/new--inc--3.php
who sell SOME watercooling stuff


----------



## Alex132

Hurmmm, that sucks, are you sure no shops? He lived there for 30 years or so, so I am sure he would know the names of them if I tell him. But only 1? Damn :/


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13715460*
> Hurmmm, that sucks, are you sure no shops? He lived there for 30 years or so, so I am sure he would know the names of them if I tell him. But only 1? Damn :/


im allways on the lookout, there are only ever very small shops that only sell full systems and somee card readers and cameras etc...

Check out "Computer fairs" in london, although they dont sell watercooling gear stuff is probably cheaper than getting it from your country


----------



## Alex132

Found most of what I need at Yo-Yo xD! Lucky I guess, only thing is I can't find a 360 Rad there :/

Well instead of EK-Supreme HF its EK-Supreme LTX. and no 360 rad instock atm


----------



## DannyB0y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13715277*
> I heard that mixing Cu and Al is bad in a loop, seeing as I will have a CPU-only loop would there be any worries in getting the Copper EK-HF? Would the copper finish also tarnish over time?


Yea, mixing metals causes the corrosion of metals in your loop. Are you using aluminum parts in other areas of your loop(ex: radiators)? If not, you don't have anything to worry about.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13715277*
> Would the copper finish also tarnish over time?


Copper oxidation is one thing to worry about on the cpu block. Though it doesn't effect the integrity of the copper, I'm not sure if it effects performance by much. Removing it is easy though. Juggalo made a video on removing it


----------



## Alex132

Well I assumed that most radiators are aluminum plated on the inside, it looks like the ones I would be getting are either RX360 or EK 360 rad. Probably gonna go for the Acetal EK block though, I have worked with copper before and I love it when its shiny, hate it when it tarnishes.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13715714*
> Well I assumed that most radiators are aluminum plated on the inside, it looks like the ones I would be getting are either RX360 or EK 360 rad. Probably gonna go for the Acetal EK block though, I have worked with copper before and I love it when its shiny, hate it when it tarnishes.


most pc rads are full copper. some old koolance ones where mixed metal.


----------



## x Yoko

I know this is the wrong section, but amongst the more elite liquid coolers here...What is your preference in fan control? It's summer time and my rig runs idle at 30C now, which I consider an unacceptable level. I've been looking for a controller than can turn channels off, can handle ~25w per channel and uses voltage reduction control. I've had no luck with PWM controllers. The fans always make terrible noises at anything less than 100%.

Thanks.


----------



## Alex132

If the fans are making squealing noise when undervolting that's not the PWM's fault, its the fan's. Gelid Wings are great undervolters, not sure about their use in watercooling though.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13715714*
> Well I assumed that most radiators are aluminum plated on the inside, it looks like the ones I would be getting are either RX360 or EK 360 rad. Probably gonna go for the Acetal EK block though, I have worked with copper before and I love it when its shiny, hate it when it tarnishes.


No popular radiators use aluminium at all. Its copper and brass thats used.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x Yoko;13716587*
> I know this is the wrong section, but amongst the more elite liquid coolers here...What is your preference in fan control? It's summer time and my rig runs idle at 30C now, which I consider an unacceptable level. I've been looking for a controller than can turn channels off, can handle ~25w per channel and uses voltage reduction control. I've had no luck with PWM controllers. The fans always make terrible noises at anything less than 100%.
> 
> Thanks.


You should use a non PWM controller like the Zalman ZM-MFC1 and the Lamptron FC5 or FC6. 30'c idle is fine though. Load is what counts.

Personally I use a Lamptron FC6 with Gentle Typhoons and a couple 140's. Its easy to make the setup almost silent.


----------



## x Yoko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13716641*
> If the fans are making squealing noise when undervolting that's not the PWM's fault, its the fan's. Gelid Wings are great undervolters, not sure about their use in watercooling though.


Still, for high power fans, I've always found voltage reduction to be a much better method. I can run 5 and 7 volt reduction switches from a 12v 4 pin supply on a 1.3A 38mil and get no noise. Yet if I hook it up to a PWM controller it will make terrible noise at anything under 100%.

Currently, I'm between quite a number of controllers. I need a lot of channels, at 1A. or less ~2.25A channels.

-Sunbeam PL-RS-6
-Scythe Kaze Master Pro
-Zalman MFC1
-Lamptron FC6
-Lamptron F5v2
-Lamptron FanAttic5 +_+


----------



## Alex132

Odd, I have found that either using the voltage to set my fans to 7v or using the fan controller I get the same noise levels. I prefer the fan controller, because I can basically turn fans off when I let my PC fold overnight, Although I still have to keep the CPU fans relatively high RPM (1000-1250).
Part of why I want watercooling, that and the lower temps but mainly it looks so goddamn awesome xD


----------



## x Yoko

^ yessir it do. (yes, it most certainly does.)

I'll be changing my color theme again after only 4 months. I like the yellow/gold but I need something else. THERE MUST BE SOMETHING OUT THERE FOR MEEEE. + the TJ07 needs cable management holes, badly.


----------



## knoxy_14

there ya go!


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13716404*
> updated
> 
> most pc rads are full copper. some old koolance ones where mixed metal.


My rad is 100% Al. They still sell Al rads, which pleases me, as if I add another rad, I will most definitely get another Al rad. There has been a move in the automotive industry towards aluminum radiators, as copper has gone up in price, and it's very easy to make an Al rad that is just as effective as a copper radiator. I would go so far as to say construction matters more than materials insofar as efficiency is concerned.

Speaking of temps, my room is currently around 78F, my cpu has been folding for days, my hottest core is @ 55C (coldest @ 47C), and my water temp is 35C. All with two 80mm fans at idle speed.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

guys, I need some blocks for my 6950s, any thoughts on the Alphacool 6970/6950 block? I'v read Cartago's review and he says its pretty good and the workmanship is ok. Its slightly cheaper than the XSPC rasa and the alpha looks way better than the razor.


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13713950*
> now that just pisses me off lol! smasherbasher you suck lol I am killing myself just to have a medium main system and a just ok LAN rig and you have two monster machines! OH yeah by the way I just use these for folding, and they are twice what most have in just one machine alone lol


If you have a look you'll see what these machines are really for


----------



## superhead91

I'm getting some 2150 rpm Gentle Typhoons from the OCN group buy. Would a BI GTX 360 or an RX360 be a better rad for those fans?


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13726667*
> I'm getting some 2150 rpm Gentle Typhoons from the OCN group buy. Would a BI GTX 360 or an RX360 be a better rad for those fans?


in general people say the BI rads are better for high pressure/cfm fans
but i personally say the rx, it will be quieter too.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;13726683*
> in general people say the BI rads are better for high pressure/cfm fans
> but i personally say the rx, it will be quieter too.


Just wondering because I could possibly get a GTX 360 for around $50.


----------



## x Yoko

A higher fin density means you need higher static pressure (which means higher RPM's) to get efficient cooling. Black ICE SR1 rads are pretty good at 9FPI, iirc.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13726667*
> I'm getting some 2150 rpm Gentle Typhoons from the OCN group buy. Would a BI GTX 360 or an RX360 be a better rad for those fans?


Black Ice i'd say.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13726719*
> Just wondering because I could possibly get a GTX 360 for around $50.


I'd be all over that deal in heartbeat. That's a great price for a great quality, high performance radiator, as is the BI GTX series.


----------



## bundymania

Oh, so shiny


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13736186*
> 
> Oh, so shiny


Got a question for you Bundy... are those copper fittings just as strong as the other fittings or are they "softer"? Copper tends to be a bit more malleable than other materials.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

There's all "kinds" of copper. Hard, soft, work hardened...


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13736867*
> Got a question for you Bundy... are those copper fittings just as strong as the other fittings or are they "softer"? Copper tends to be a bit more malleable than other materials.


normally they have common core and what changes is plating

e.g. see here fittings with different finish
so that way they have same mechanical characteristics


----------



## Bradford1040

I just seen you changed you post so I figured I would take down the quote, I don't know if I can edit all posts so others will most likely not get what I was talking about

I thought it was a good question if he is using clamps


----------



## u3b3rg33k

If you're clamping hard enough to crush the fittings...


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;13737008*
> If you're clamping hard enough to crush the fittings...


I never have done that, but I still don't ever find any question funny other than a question not asked and you find out that if you had you could of saved your self a big problem! Plus if he is using the fancy aluminum clamps they have a sweet spot for not leaking. I have seen some that needed to be super tight and others that were just fine at normal tightness! Now if the fittings were died thin and also being soft you could crush it, not likely but possible

I am not looking to pick a fight just don't like to see people pick on others for asking a question. What might be simple to understand for some might be hard for others, that is the reason for forums in the first place, it is a place to ask your peers questions no matter how small

EDIT : sorry if this dose not make sense now but it did before, other edits in thread made this kinda obsolete


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13736951*
> I am missing the joke? I thought it was a good question if he is using clamps


Exactly my thought...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;13736936*
> There's all "kinds" of copper. Hard, soft, work hardened...


Was not aware of this. Someone had already PM'ed me saying to look at how hard penny's were but then I corrected them by pointing out the fact that penny's are in fact not copper. They are merely copper coated/colored zinc. Perhaps those fittings are not 100% copper then?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;13737008*
> If you're clamping hard enough to crush the fittings...


I use the screw/band type clamp. You could crush a fitting and not even realize it as your are doing so until it's a bit too late.

Lastly... I am just curious. That's all!


----------



## t-ramp

I'm fairly sure those are just brass fittings with a copper finish/plating.


----------



## RussianJ

Updated loop layout before continuing the case mod. Much more efficient and about 2C cooler now. Pardon the iPhone shot...


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ;13739401*
> Updated loop layout before continuing the case mod. Much more efficient and about 2C cooler now. Pardon the iPhone shot...


are those ribbon style cables (power cables) just from your psu stock or did you buy them after?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;13739058*
> I'm fairly sure those are just brass fittings with a copper finish/plating.


Hmmm... they cost as if all copper though!


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13737214*
> 
> I use the screw/band type clamp. You could crush a fitting and not even realize it as your are doing so until it's a bit too late.


As someone who has found the limits of screw clamps, you will definitely slip the clamp threads before you damage the barbs. You'd be surprised how little torque the screw type can actually hold.


----------



## MediaRocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;13742461*
> As someone who has found the limits of screw clamps, you will definitely slip the clamp threads before you damage the barbs. You'd be surprised how little torque the screw type can actually hold.


Yeah, I found out on a 160 PSI air hose... well rather my friend did and he popped the screw off the clamp and the hose shot off.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kalvin37

I'm in


----------



## TonyLeung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalvin37;13753735*
> I'm in


chiphellers?


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalvin37;13753735*
> I'm in
> 
> http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/2973/dsc0706d.jpg


Out of curiosity, how hard is it to fill and bleed with a horizontal res?


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Finally a long weekend here and found time to invert my MB. My MDPC package from Nils arrived from Germany, so just need to find time to sleeve the cables.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Morizuno

Hey, with clear tubing, can you "see" the water moving in it clearly? Or will this require a dye


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;13755633*
> Hey, with clear tubing, can you "see" the water moving in it clearly? Or will this require a dye


nope, nor can you with dye.

the only way you could is if you had air bubbles which means there is something wrong or you are gonna kill your pump


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13755643*
> nope, nor can you with dye.
> 
> The only way you could is if you had air bubbles which means there is something wrong or you are gonna kill your pump


qft


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;13754855*
> Out of curiosity, how hard is it to fill and bleed with a horizontal res?


A pain in the ass! I have a T-Virus mounted horizontally at the top of my case. Got to take it out from the top, fill it, put it back in, run the pump for a sec and then repeat the process another 3-4 times.


----------



## Morizuno

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_49&products_id=24745

And also, what RPM will these perform at?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;13755706*
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_49&products_id=24745
> 
> And also, what RPM will these perform at?


500rpm


----------



## wermad

new gpu waterblocks on their way!


----------



## Morizuno

Will be going in my Q08!

what are your thoughts on these components? Anything missing? I'll need EVERYTHING needed

EDIT: Missing 2 barbs for res/pump


----------



## Retrolock

Since switching to watercooling I found the vrm of the motherboard gets quite hot! I'm thinking about switching the top exhaust to intake to take care of the heat.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrolock;13757065*
> Since switching to watercooling I found the vrm of the motherboard gets quite hot! I'm thinking about switching the top exhaust to intake to take care of the heat.


I fried a motherboard due to lack of VRM airflow once. It actually charred and warped. I checked temps on my current board with the stock vrm heatpipe setup, and asusprobe went nuts about the temps. I decided to throw a block on the VRM and the NB, and everything was happy, even with a 1720MHz FSB.


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;13757140*
> I fried a motherboard due to lack of VRM airflow once. It actually charred and warped. I checked temps on my current board with the stock vrm heatpipe setup, and asusprobe went nuts about the temps. I decided to throw a block on the VRM and the NB, and everything was happy, even with a 1720MHz FSB.


Yeah, the problem is I haven't seen any P67 vrm chipset waterblocks. Or are there?

edit: seen one from EK but its only for Asus P67


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrolock;13757227*
> Yeah, the problem is I haven't seen any P67 vrm chipset waterblocks. Or are there?
> 
> edit: seen one from EK but its only for Asus P67


Well they make these two:
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=660
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=736

And then a huge set of heat spreaders:
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/default.php?cPath=29_108

So I'm sure one of those combinations will fit, but I'm not researching it, mine fits great


----------



## bundymania

...fits on gtx460 and many more cards


----------



## Morizuno

what's the best waterblock for 50$?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13755412*
> Finally a long weekend here and found time to invert my MB. My MDPC package from Nils arrived from Germany, so just need to find time to sleeve the cables.


That is one sweat TJ-07 dude, I just bought a used one a monster mod! I have nothing to go in it yet but it will see life lol


----------



## Lt.AldoRaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13758933*
> 
> ...fits on gtx460 and many more cards


thats a perty block


----------



## Bradford1040

I don't know if this is right to say but can you not put your pictures in the reply as the last page was so slow to load and I just don't want it to become like that again sorry if this is wrong of me


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morizuno*


what's the best waterblock for 50$?


http://skinneelabs.com/cpu-blocks/


----------



## bundymania

This is also interesting, the internal structure:










@Morizuno: CPU- or GPU Waterblock ?

Man, we got 32Â° Celsius today, my brain needs watercooling too


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13760080*
> This is also interesting, the internal structure:
> 
> @Morizuno: CPU- or GPU Waterblock ?


do you think the micro fins being only lines will affect the performance?


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13760080*
> This is also interesting, the internal structure:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Morizuno: CPU- or GPU Waterblock ?
> 
> Man, we got 32° Celsius today, my brain needs watercooling too


cpu.

I'm probably going to get a heatkiller LC, but I would like to know if I'm making the right choice


----------



## bundymania

The HK 3.0 is a very good block, as you can see in my review (Link in sig.) or when you want a block in that price region, check out the Aquacomputer Kyros Delrin, or the EK Supreme LTX


----------



## Morizuno

with the Kyros Delrin, I'm assuming that 3/8" ID fittings w/ 1/2" OD clamps will fit


----------



## Lt.AldoRaine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


This is also interesting, the internal structure:

Man, we got 32Â° Celsius today, my brain needs watercooling too










bundy, what block is that exactly?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lt.AldoRaine*


bundy, what block is that exactly?


I believe its the YBris Black SUN GPU Block. Doesn't seem too badly priced too, would be good for a more budget orientated setup.


----------



## wermad

Can't go wrong with the Rasa cpu block







, its ~$50


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Can't go wrong with the Rasa cpu block







, its ~$50


yeah, I think I'll go with it since the back plate won't hit the transistor on my motherboard


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Rasa CPU block, eh?


----------



## Morizuno

most likely


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


A pain in the ass! I have a T-Virus mounted horizontally at the top of my case. Got to take it out from the top, fill it, put it back in, run the pump for a sec and then repeat the process another 3-4 times.


Can't you just turn the case 90* so that the res is about the pump....?


----------



## bundymania

..workin´ on my next Review - XSPC H1 Case


----------



## UnWantedSoldier

My Addition To the Club Blue Shift v2. Just finished her in time for Intel Lanfest DesertBASH X.


----------



## Zamoldac

Yey HK 3.0 LT /AMD ^_^! Looks great, also is that AntiCorro fluid in the small white bottle?


----------



## wermad

Any one interested in the EK "Nickel-Gate" situation. Read here, disgusted on how they keep passing the blame to distilled water with silver/additives and how they are going to fix these bad blocks.

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.p...t01returnid=17


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13773538*
> Any one interested in the EK "Nickel-Gate" situation. Read here, disgusted on how they keep passing the blame to distilled water with silver/additives and how they are going to fix these bad blocks.
> 
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.php?mact=News,cntnt01,detail,0&cntnt01articleid=83&cntnt01origid=15&cntnt01returnid=17


Seconded... This is really disappointing, no more of my money is going to Eddy


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13775426*
> updated


Kev, I fell in love the the HK gpu blocks and I have three on their way for my 6950(s).

edit: plus a triple link bridge


----------



## B3RGY

So I was wondering what you guys could recommend me for parts. im trying to keep the Qc part under $400, although its easy to go past that







my build will be a 2500k, 560 ti, and a EVGA P67 board, and im not really sure on the case.
should i just get a rasa kit and buy a block to go on the 560 or go fully custom? any comments/tips appreciated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13775503*
> Kev, I fell in love the the HK gpu blocks and I have three on their way for my 6950(s).
> 
> edit: plus a triple link bridge


they are pretty nice, and their link bridges are way nicer that EK's (and way cheaper)


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13763781*
> ..workin´ on my next Review - XSPC H1 Case


It looks nice but we all know that's just a rebranded Mountain Mods U2-UFO.


----------



## Vermillion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*


Yey HK 3.0 LT /AMD ^_^! Looks great, also is that AntiCorro fluid in the small white bottle?


Looks like a bottle of Feser dye to me.


----------



## BWG

Kevin, last update unless I get another GPU. Also, better cable management. Squeezed a push fan on the 120 RAD. THe CPU 8 pin header is really tall and it was very tight.

Question: Would you advise me to build a shelf to set the pump and res on that is higher? I would be able to remove some excess tubing. For those who are use to all the fancy wc pics in here, this is my first and only loop. Eventually I will get new fittings and tubing, but this was 2.98 for 10 ft lol.

Performance wise, I stay under 42C CPU and 40C GPU while folding for weeks upon weeks. That is at 4.3GHz and 975/1950 though and I run the Slipstreams at a silent 1200 RPM.

Have not seen temps while folding with the 120 RAD's push fan yet. Maybe they will improve.

EDIT: Opps, shrinking pics lol


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Still deciding If I should go green/black or blue/black for my next build theme


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3;13784177*
> Still deciding I'f I should go green/black or blue/black for my next build theme


well I went green/black and just bought the new sabertooth (AMD not Intel) to round out the color scheme, and I must say I was very happy to have those colors as it seems no one is going that direction anymore or maybe just tired of it but it seems there is a over whelming amount of red/black white/black(which relay does look good) blue/black and just a few black/black

I don't know if you are going to use your tj-07 case but it mite be nice to see green/white there is a few red/white ones but I don't think I have seen G/W yet just my opinion


----------



## BWG

I like Blue, obviously lol.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13784478*
> I like Blue, obviously lol.


well I wasn't shur but I suspected! I am very glad you came out of the closet, lol


----------



## BWG

Whew, it was tough, but the girlfriend deadbolted the closet door and it was a real struggle to get out of there. She almost got the computer to the trash can, but the anti-theft electric shock knocked her on her keyster just as I was running down the stairs to save her, my precious computer.
















Edit


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13784820*
> Whew, it was tough, but the girlfriend deadbolted the door and it was a real struggle to get out of there. She almost got the computer to the trash can, but the anti-theft electric shock knocked her on her keyster just as I was running down the stairs to save her, my precious computer.


at first I was trying to figure out how the computer dead bolted you in but after reading more it made sense lol


----------



## BWG

Huh? What?


----------



## adamwzl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13775665*
> So I was wondering what you guys could recommend me for parts. im trying to keep the Qc part under $400, although its easy to go past that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my build will be a 2500k, 560 ti, and a EVGA P67 board, and im not really sure on the case.
> should i just get a rasa kit and buy a block to go on the 560 or go fully custom? any comments/tips appreciated


Depends on what case you want. I would go ahead and pick the case first then factor in your water cooling components. Also I wouldn't bother water cooling your gfx unless you SLI them. For a single card the fan should suffice good enough. You will probably be upgraded the card before the cpu anyhow.

The Rasa kit is a good start if you never worked with water cooling before. But look into getting different tubing with that kit. The tubing XSPC uses has been know to fade, fog up, and crack over time.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamwzl;13788887*
> Depends on what case you want. I would go ahead and pick the case first then factor in your water cooling components. Also I wouldn't bother water cooling your gfx unless you SLI them. For a single card the fan should suffice good enough. You will probably be upgraded the card before the cpu anyhow.
> 
> The Rasa kit is a good start if you never worked with water cooling before. But look into getting different tubing with that kit. The tubing XSPC uses has been know to fade, fog up, and crack over time.


Ya i was going to get new tubing too, dont want to add a dye and UV tubing looks much better than clear


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Finally got my CPU and GPU under water again. I sure did miss having a water-cooled system!


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnWantedSoldier;13770148*


See your using a k9a2 platinum. Still a awesome board 2-3 years later huh? Only board I've had since I've been in this hobby. Where did you get your mesh for the front on the case? Looks really good!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

That looks awesome spiderm0nkey! Can't wait to see more


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;13792703*
> Finally got my CPU and GPU under water again. I sure did miss having a water-cooled system!












looks awesome









I gotta say though, I feel like that one pic is more than all of the on-topic posts combined in your worklog


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;13792703*
> Finally got my CPU and GPU under water again. I sure did miss having a water-cooled system!


I like this.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I'd have to agree kev! Part of it is that I have just got a replacement camera. My D100 died so now I have to learn to use this D80. Have been using my computer as a test subject


----------



## Triangle

Very nice..!

Good luck learning on that D80..! I have a D700 and I love it..!


----------



## 985323

My new setup


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13793387*
> Very nice..!
> 
> Good luck learning on that D80..! I have a D700 and I love it..!


Thanks! I'm really enjoying it so far. Selling off my Canon 1000D just so I can afford it. Bought the Canon to replace my D100 when I thought it was dying, but I got another year out of it before it finally locked up for good. I prefer the Nikon cameras over Canon (I suppose it helps I've been given a couple of Nikon lenses too) so went for the D80









I'm hoping to take more pictures over the next week or so.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13784049*


You really did a good job on making a loop in that case, i can imagin how hard it is compared to many other cases. Well done sir.


----------



## BWG

Thank you! I have to admit, I am finally happy with it the way it is. It's actually portable too. My first loop was terrible. I mounted the RAD on top and it was just UGLY!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

question the D5 pump can be run a 24v and koolance makes these two items which is the best one? I know they also make the 5.25 bay one but I have no room for it. I would also like to know if you get more out of it or not, I have been in the pump industry before and some pumps can go faster but really don't give and extra flow or pressure for the increased speed is that also true with the D5 or not. Thank you in advance

Koolance CTR-SPD24

Koolance CTR-SPD10


----------



## MrJackson

From the review I saw ( I think it was martin) the D5 does increase flow/pressure till 13.1v, after that it stayed the same.
I've been wondering if 24v would help in a very high restriction loop though, from what I could see that wasn't tested.

I do remember reading some place that the D5 vario while running on 24v will start at full speed when first powered on and then slow down to your selected speed, that could be nice for some loops.


----------



## fortunesolace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13795875*
> question the D5 pump can be run a 24v and koolance makes these two items which is the best one? I know they also make the 5.25 bay one but I have no room for it. I would also like to know if you get more out of it or not, I have been in the pump industry before and some pumps can go faster but really don't give and extra flow or pressure for the increased speed is that also true with the D5 or not. Thank you in advance
> 
> Koolance CTR-SPD24
> 
> Koolance CTR-SPD10


You must use the Koolance pmp-450 Strong model, you'll see no performance difference when you use the koolance pmp-450 Vario combined with the Koolance CTR-SPD24.


----------



## luke997

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fortunesolace;13795942*
> You must use the Koolance pmp-450 Strong model, you'll see no performance difference when you use the koolance pmp-450 Vario combined with the Koolance CTR-SPD24.


+1, you need PMP-450S (which is basically D5 Strong with Koolance sticker on it) and it's much stronger than D5/D5 Vario when you increase volts.

In previous version of my rig I've had 2 of these in EK dual top while I've had 3 rads, 6 blocks and tons of fitting I've had ~165 l/h @24v, ~145 l/h @ 18-20V and ~110 l/h @ ~12V (can't remember the exact values for the 12V as I didn't note them but sure for the 2 first).


----------



## Alex132

Just out of pure interest would light blue tubing (non UV perhaps) and UV-reactive pink liquid give an effect similar to this:










I'm guessing it would mainly be seen at the res or if you had acrylic GPU/CPU covers and a blue LED near-by


----------



## Boyboyd

I think the 2 colours would blend together to make a light purple colour actually. But it's worth a shot.


----------



## Alex132

Might just order $5 of pink dye when I get the UV-blue tubing / RASA kit, test it out. If it turns out awesome I will post pics


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luke997;13796108*
> +1, you need PMP-450S (which is basically D5 Strong with Koolance sticker on it) and it's much stronger than D5/D5 Vario when you increase volts.
> 
> In previous version of my rig I've had 2 of these in EK dual top while I've had 3 rads, 6 blocks and tons of fitting I've had ~165 l/h @24v, ~145 l/h @ 18-20V and ~110 l/h @ ~12V (can't remember the exact values for the 12V as I didn't note them but sure for the 2 first).


Well the swiftech version is just the regular D5 then isn't it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fortunesolace;13795942*
> You must use the Koolance pmp-450 Strong model, you'll see no performance difference when you use the koolance pmp-450 Vario combined with the Koolance CTR-SPD24.


Like I said in rep+ thank you

EDIT: BTW did any one see the new metro yet I mean wow!!!! (Metro: Last Light) seems to be better than the first plus it will be both platforms PC and console


----------



## luke997

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13796637*
> Well the swiftech version is just the regular D5 then isn't it?


Yes, it's regular one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13796637*
> EDIT: BTW did any one see the new metro yet I mean wow!!!! (Metro: Last Light) seems to be better than the first plus it will be both platforms PC and console


I've seen it, fantastic, can't wait now!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luke997;13798290*
> Yes, it's regular one.
> 
> I've seen it, fantastic, can't wait now!


well poo!
and me ether

never mind it was me I had to shut down from flash update


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;13792703*
> Finally got my CPU and GPU under water again. I sure did miss having a water-cooled system!


Wow this build is still at this stage! i remember checking out your build log over a year ago, and you just got the res or something lol gl and hope your having fun with it!!


----------



## Bradford1040

dam summer is here and I just said I couldn't wait any longer and ordered the extra 240mm rad hope that is the one that does it lol, I pierced the extra one and removed it from the new loop and was on hold with replacing but as the new 990fx came today (YEAH new board) I figured I would just say to hell with the bills (who needs to eat every day right) and got me a new BI 240 with push pull koolance fans 190cfm ones on the way be here tomorrow


----------



## p1mp1s

Hello guys im going to change my corsair 800D for the U2-UFO from mountainmods, this is the first time trying to setup a watercooling rig, please let me know your thoughts and any idea or correction is very welcome.

First im going to list the hardware to install in the new case:

MOBO: Asus Rampage 3 extreme
Processor: i7-980x
Ram: Corsair Dominator Gt 12gb
HDDS: Ocz revodrive x2 240gb pci-2 SSD
2 ocz vertex 3 sata3 ssds de 240gb c/u en raid 0 total 480gb
1 Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB - SATA-III, 6Gb/s, 7,200RPM, 64MB Cache HDD
video cards: 2 ATI XFX 6990s en crossfire
dedicated physX card: Nvidia ASUS ENGTX560 DCII OC/2DI/1GD5 1gb
audio card: Asus Xonar Xense 7.1
network: Tarjeta killer xeno pro
media: Blu ray Pioneer 12x writer
Blu ray LG 10x reader
Aerocool Modern V - LCD Temperature Display and Fan Controller
PSU: Silverstone ST1500W (all cables come in black sleeving from frozencpu)

Watercooling stuff:

Radiators: 2 radiadores ek waterblocks 360
1 radiador ek waterblocks 120
1 radiador XSPC 240

waterblocks: video cards: Koolance VID-AR699
mobo: EK-FB RE3 acetal-nickel
processorr: EK-SUPREME HF- nickel
ram: EK-RAM acetal-nickel

Pumps: Swiftech MCP655 (LOOP 1)
2 MCP 355s (LOOP 2)

Reservoirs: Bitspower water tank z-multi 150 inline (LOOP 1)
EK multioption res X2 - 100 (LOOP2)

In the pictures you can see the case as it is, and in the second picture its a design of 2 loops (sorry for the bad paint job), the mobo its going to be installed horizontally so the best view will be at the top. The 2 360 rads are going to be installed at the front/bottom, the 240 at the back/top, and the 120 at the right/bottom side of the case, please let me know what you think, this will be my first time so please be patient


----------



## Bradford1040

I am not shore about this but isn't Intel's 2011 socket coming out real soon for this guy? not to knock the 1366 but was just a thought for him


----------



## MrJackson

Ivy Bridge is suppose to be out first quarter 2012 I believe.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrJackson;13798741*
> Ivy Bridge is suppose to be out first quarter 2012 I believe.


I thought it was going to be out, right after BD


----------



## Boyboyd

Added a GPU to my loop. It might look thoughtlessly assembled, but:

I can only fit barbs on the bottom of the GPU block.
The tubing is in such a way so that it doesn't press against the door when it's on.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13799060*
> Added a GPU to my loop. It might look thoughtlessly assembled, but:
> 
> I can only fit barbs on the bottom of the GPU block.
> The tubing is in such a way so that it doesn't press against the door when it's on.


dumb question why could you only fit the barbs on the bottom it looks a if they would go on the top of the card?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13799101*
> dumb question why could you only fit the barbs on the bottom it looks a if they would go on the top of the card?


I tried but the backplate was in the way







The only problem was that it took 10 minutes to bleed, because air gathered at the very bottom of the tubing loop.



Excuse the quality, it is a single frame from a video.


----------



## BWG

I can see it.


----------



## Alex132

I woulda gone without the backplate, or cut it to fit


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13799143*
> I tried but the backplate was in the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem was that it took 10 minutes to bleed, because air gathered at the very bottom of the tubing loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse the quality, it is a single frame from a video.


no worries on quality dude, and I see your point boy that sucked and thank you also as I was planing on getting back plates and that would of been a nightmare


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13799174*
> I woulda gone without the backplate, or cut it to fit


what are the back plates made out of? they are cut able meaning not something that would crack after cut?


----------



## Boyboyd

I bought the card used on here. I might cut the backplate to fit one day in the near future.

Shame i know next to nothing about GPU watercooling, lol.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13799192*
> what are the back plates made out of? they are cut able meaning not something that would crack after cut?


aluminum. They aren't the nicest thing either, I shorted out my soundcard when I moved my backplated around a bit on my 5870. It killed it.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13799224*
> aluminum. They aren't the nicest thing either, I shorted out my soundcard when I moved my backplated around a bit on my 5870. It killed it.


well all the work I just did will be coming apart again lol this is going in the Lian Li ether tonight or tomorrow


----------



## rubema

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc;7303872*
> well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.
> 
> Specs:
> Swiftech MCP655-b
> Swiftech MCP655
> Swiftech MCR320
> Swiftech MCR320
> Swiftech MCR320
> Swiftech MCW60
> Swiftech MicroRes v2
> Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
> 18x High Speed Yate loons.


I just noticed that strange thing... All that LOOP with all that Rads.. Running with that small Reservoir ???

Can this reservoir handle such a loop.??? Or i doesn't matter the size of the reservoir??


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubema;13799253*
> I just noticed that strange thing... All that LOOP with all that Rads.. Running with that small Reservoir ???
> 
> Can this reservoir handle such a loop.??? Or i doesn't matter the size of the reservoir??


Res size doesn't matter, people have run without res's even. A res isn't really required.


----------



## rubema

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13799268*
> Res size doesn't matter, people have run without res's even. A res isn't really required.


Ooh really!! i just noticed that, since i am planning to change my aluminum Res to old plastic one. I was just wondering..


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamwzl;13788887*
> Depends on what case you want. I would go ahead and pick the case first then factor in your water cooling components. Also I wouldn't bother water cooling your gfx unless you SLI them. For a single card the fan should suffice good enough. You will probably be upgraded the card before the cpu anyhow.
> 
> The Rasa kit is a good start if you never worked with water cooling before. But look into getting different tubing with that kit. The tubing XSPC uses has been know to fade, fog up, and crack over time.


also could you guys point me in the right direction for fairly cheap compression fittings for the rasa kits? again, trying to keep the whole thing under ~$400


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubema;13799253*
> I just noticed that strange thing... All that LOOP with all that Rads.. Running with that small Reservoir ???
> 
> Can this reservoir handle such a loop.??? Or i doesn't matter the size of the reservoir??


no it doesn't mater and thealex132 did you see my post before that big picture covered it up


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubema;13799253*
> I just noticed that strange thing... All that LOOP with all that Rads.. Running with that small Reservoir ???
> 
> Can this reservoir handle such a loop.??? Or i doesn't matter the size of the reservoir??


The reservoir size doesn't matter always that your pump (s) and components have water.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13799303*
> also could you guys point me in the right direction for fairly cheap compression fittings for the rasa kits? again, trying to keep the whole thing under ~$400


cheap and compression fittings in the same sentence


----------



## Boyboyd

I've never used compression fittings until today. Think i'm going to use them exclusively in future.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13799330*
> I've never used compression fittings until today. Think i'm going to use them exclusively in future.


If you can foot the bill... course! Compression fittings are the best. but I still don't care for the look


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubema;13799295*
> Ooh really!! i just noticed that, since i am planning to change my aluminum Res to old plastic one. I was just wondering..


Uhh what dude, your running an aluminum res with copper blocks??
BAD IDEA.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13799304*
> no it doesn't mater and thealex132 did you see my post before that big picture covered it up


Will go check now


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13799249*
> well all the work I just did will be coming apart again lol this is going in the Lian Li ether tonight or tomorrow


I see you went ahead and pretty much fully invested in BD








Nice board, pitty it lacks the shield of the P67 counterpart though.


----------



## rubema

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13799409*
> Uhh what dude, your running an aluminum res with copper blocks??
> BAD IDEA.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13799409*
> 
> Yep.. I noticed that mistake with my new upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will upload all the pictures as soon as i finish it.. so my currant Rig will be update.
Click to expand...


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubema;13799446*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13799409*
> Uhh what dude, your running an aluminum res with copper blocks??
> BAD IDEA.
> 
> Yep.. I noticed that mistake with my new upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will upload all the pictures as soon as i finish it.. so my currant Rig will be update.
> 
> 
> 
> ....I think you have too much weight on that fan....
Click to expand...


----------



## rubema

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13799466*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rubema;13799446*
> 
> ....I think you have too much weight on that fan....
> 
> 
> 
> It only for taking the picture.. I will adjust it .. and many guys told me that there is no gain from the 240 rad.. so i am planning to keep only the 360
Click to expand...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;13798475*
> Wow this build is still at this stage! i remember checking out your build log over a year ago, and you just got the res or something lol gl and hope your having fun with it!!


There's been a lot of stuff happen in the last year that has prevented me from being able to work on it unfortunately. Up until a few days ago I had been using just a CPU loop but was finally able to afford a universal GPU block so have just added it in.


----------



## Alex132

What 240 rad is that?


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Holy mother of god... that looks like a triple decker sandwich!


----------



## rubema

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13799514*
> What 240 rad is that?


Its Black Ice


----------



## rubema

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3;13799516*
> Holy mother of god... that looks like a triple decker sandwich!


it's tasty


----------



## masonkian

bought a haf x

case is huge


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rubema*


Its Black Ice


Its so tiny! Was hoping it wasn't the RS240


----------



## rubema

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Its so tiny! Was hoping it wasn't the RS240










Yes its.. So i think i will gain nothing if i add it to the loop, i am watercooling the CPU only (2600k) soon and i am planning to hit 5.2 with good temp


----------



## Alex132

5.2 on a 2600K is hit or miss really. Personally I would just use the RX360, but if you have the 240 laying around, why not add it to the loop?


----------



## rubema

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13800731*
> 5.2 on a 2600K is hit or miss really. Personally I would just use the RX360, but if you have the 240 laying around, why not add it to the loop?


Sound good, i was wondering if it will make the loop speed somehow slow.. JUST WONDERING









What do you think is better if i add the 240:

Option 1:
Reservoir - Pump - Cpu Block - 360 Rad - 240 Rad - Reservoir

Option 2:
Reservoir - Pump - Cpu Block - 240Rad - 360 Rad - Reservoir


----------



## Onions

loop order does not matter... as long as the res is before the pump


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13800822*
> loop order does not matter... as long as the res is before the pump


This


----------



## skmanu

MAd Max rig updated!


----------



## Bradford1040

wow now that is determination! I hope the dirt bike was broken!

I also would like to point out the weather man latest report the current temp, is 96 deg F with today's high of 89 deg f and the low of 78 deg f and that as not a typo it was live and written under in scroll bar!!!!! Also I have my own temp gauges inside and out shade and sun light and it was 103 degs f high in the shade forget the sun light as it was blistering, I think the thermometer quit lol or went on strike lol no it was 112 degs f in the sun


----------



## skmanu

Lol, that was spare ones!

103Â°F in Virginia... OMG, we're better in Corsica!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skmanu*


Lol, that was spare ones!

103Â°F in Virginia... OMG, we're better in Corsica!


hell my house in WPB FL was 86deg f with a high of 91deg f when I checked with my system down there

EDIT: I heard it was 110 in NY


----------



## Boyboyd

My room is 72.7F (22.7C) atm. And it's 11pm at night, lol.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


My room is 72.7F (22.7C) atm. And it's 11pm at night, lol.


I think there is something majorly wrong with this picture, as it has been hotter in the North than the South and that is so backwards! Then to top it off every day the weather man reports the high being lower than the temp outside at the moment!!!!! That has been that way every day for a week and a half. I don't like seeing my inside temps above 72 but as everyone knows you can only cool off 20 deg on avg so do the math wow I have been hot


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


Then to top it off every day the weather man reports the high being lower than the temp outside at the moment!!!!! That has been that way every day for a week and a half.


haha there is something wrong there. We had our summer in spring and now it's almost summer and we're getting spring weather :S


----------



## Bradford1040

ok back on topic sorry for the rant but I am friggin hot!!! I just got the new 990FX SaberTooth AMD board which I posted pics of earlier, and I was thinking of water cooling the chip set but as it is a new board my question is how long is it before they start making revisions of the new chip sets?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I tried but the backplate was in the way







The only problem was that it took 10 minutes to bleed, because air gathered at the very bottom of the tubing loop.



Excuse the quality, it is a single frame from a video.


you just need two of these:










http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...l=g30c101s1354

or these:










http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13...l=g30c101s1354

it would be well worth it to get rid of all that extra tubing...


----------



## Boyboyd

I'll look into it. Thanks.


----------



## Bradford1040

well maybe this one will be answered lol I bought the BI extreme 2 rad is that going to work well with 130cfm fans? it is not the GTX or SR1 as I just did not have the money for ether one today and also room was a factor I kinda wanted a thinner rad so are my fans going to work well with it?

And if anyone feels like looking at my last question and answering it would be very nice thank you, or if no one knows then I understand the lack of response


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


wow now that is determination! I hope the dirt bike was broken!

I also would like to point out the weather man latest report the current temp, is 96 deg F with today's high of 89 deg f and the low of 78 deg f and that as not a typo it was live and written under in scroll bar!!!!! Also I have my own temp gauges inside and out shade and sun light and it was 103 degs f high in the shade forget the sun light as it was blistering, I think the thermometer quit lol or went on strike lol no it was 112 degs f in the sun


I miss summer


----------



## nicholasbari

My Watercooler


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Nice setup... window stick is gross though


----------



## KShirza1

sweet setup, but stickers killing it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicholasbari;13804239*
> My Watercooler


Me like, ROG sticker is awesome! Now get those cards on water


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Well I finally got off my ass, flipped the mobo tray and sleeved the PSU with MDPC sleeving, took about 6 hours to do everything. including smoke breaks







, sorry pics are a bit dark and taken with my **** cellphone camera.


----------



## aerieth

Love the black tubing


----------



## masonkian




----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicholasbari;13804239*
> My Watercooler


well I don't mean to be a stickler but all that beauty and you didn't trim the rog sticker? I think it looks great though


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13799423*
> I see you went ahead and pretty much fully invested in BD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice board, pitty it lacks the shield of the P67 counterpart though.


I liked that it has true 16x 16x pci-e, that was one thing Intel still has not done and I don't understand why (that is not a hit on Intel BTW just really don't get why) and I am not a bencher I am a gamer so I don't care all about scores just game play! Bulldozer top CPU will be 320usd and the money is siting in bank for it. I am just hoping that this 5 year warranty will never be needed lol. I have never owned a SaberTooth Board but from what I hear they are tip top and even OC as well as the ROG's, I am thinking that I mite step up my cards but have not done any research on next gen yet or when they are coming out? I mite jump up to 480's if I see the need after BD but that still is not needed yet. I am able to play most games maxed out some I can't turn everything up but I have on others pc's and still I don't know if it is my eyes just being bad but don't see all that much of a difference? I know if I used multi screens it would but I just use 40" 1080 for gaming, if I ever step up the screens it will be to 3 40" turned portrait, I really don't like the wide view that much I think it is more bragging rights than being able to see more, I think you get more in portrait myself if anything.


----------



## nicholasbari

It's better now ?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicholasbari;13809750*
> It's better now ?


wow I did not mean take it off!!! the bottom just needed a trim! did you at least save the sticker or was it toast after removing?


----------



## Bradford1040

the weather guys are at it again now this is just taken but he outside temps are much higher than they say but once again look at there low high and current and then what they are telling you it will be in the next hour lol is there someone smoking crack in that room or what

EDIT: I just checked my thermometer it is 99 deg F out s I am getting a second A/C unit Installed tomorrow to cool the computer room only


----------



## nicholasbari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13809776*
> wow I did not mean take it off!!! the bottom just needed a trim! did you at least save the sticker or was it toast after removing?


I put the stick again on the case = S**t


----------



## spiderm0nkey

He was meaning to trim off the clear part of the sticker


----------



## bundymania




----------



## B3RGY

To all the comments on my post, I know they aren't "cheap" but i meant as cheap as i can get them


----------



## aerieth

New one coming


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicholasbari;13809750*
> It's better now ?


really clean!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicholasbari;13809750*
> It's better now ?


Its clean as many have said, but tbh do what you want, don't let others influence your rig unless its crucial. I doubt the sticker is holding back performance









btw, if you want to remove a sticker and salvage it, use a heat gun or hair dryer applying very little heat, enough to lift it off, use a blade to get it going. Try using waxpaper to save it.


----------



## aerieth

The sticker looked pretty cool










Lot more hardware then a PS2 to run the same game, but it's nowhere near as sexy.


----------



## Morizuno

RS240, Arctic cooling F12 fans, xspc rasa waterblock


----------



## Retrolock

Can't wait to get my modded sidepanel.. Dust is just having a field day inside my case lol


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;13818986*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RS240, Arctic cooling F12 fans, xspc rasa waterblock


Can we get some pics of the inside? Thats amazing :0


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Blindsay

My new U2-UFO


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;13821625*
> My new U2-UFO


wow that's hot, I am liken the those cases more and more. I am thinking of which to get on a cube type case everyone has told me something different on them all, one person will say it is great and another will say the build is horrid and buy brand x not y and a third person with come in a say z is the best so I am confused on which to get and trying to make up my mind! DD came out with that double 29 which looks cool MM and case labs look good to as well s the Lian Li cube but I think that it is a little small so want to go for one of the other ones. I was also looking at XSPC case but was told they are just a knock off. I know I have asked all this before, but as I never get more than a couple of answers and always conflicting, is there anyone else that would like to add to telling me which is truly the best cube case, or is it they all are good and I just need to pick one? I just don't want to spend 700 in the wrong direction as times are tight and I can't afford a second case if the first is not what I need. Thank you if you answer


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13821896*
> wow that's hot, I am liken the those cases more and more. I am thinking of which to get on a cube type case everyone has told me something different on them all, one person will say it is great and another will say the build is horrid and buy brand x not y and a third person with come in a say z is the best so I am confused on which to get and trying to make up my mind! DD came out with that double 29 which looks cool MM and case labs look good to as well s the Lian Li cube but I think that it is a little small so want to go for one of the other ones. I was also looking at XSPC case but was told they are just a knock off. I know I have asked all this before, but as I never get more than a couple of answers and always conflicting, is there anyone else that would like to add to telling me which is truly the best cube case, or is it they all are good and I just need to pick one? I just don't want to spend 700 in the wrong direction as times are tight and I can't afford a second case if the first is not what I need. Thank you if you answer


im not a case expert but im happy with the build quality of mine. i liked how customizible the case was on their website and i could pick out the different panels i wanted on my case and actually see it before i purchased it

http://www.mountainmods.com/CYO_picker.php

i had a few questions that i asked them and they always responded quite quickly, overall it was a good experience with them. My U2-UFO ended up costing about $400


----------



## Khalam

Blindsday what is that res???







im building a water cooling setup over the next few weeks, and that defo something id like


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;13822024*
> Blindsday what is that res???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im building a water cooling setup over the next few weeks, and that defo something id like


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10277/ex-res-164/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_250mm_Liquid_Fusion_V_Series_2nd_Generation_Reservoir_-_UV_Cathode_-_UV_Blue_Helix.html

they have them in different colors and sizes, them seem to be out of stock of a lot of them currently though


----------



## bundymania




----------



## EuRomer

*drool*

Planning to do a custom w/c loop after seeing this.


----------



## BWG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;13821625*
> My new U2-UFO


Wow, someone else actually owns the same fan controller that I do, the Zalman ZM-MFC2.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BWG*


Wow, someone else actually owns the same fan controller that I do, the Zalman ZM-MFC2.


hehe, i bought it because it shows power usage, bought the lamptron at a later date because it matches my color scheme. But i have so many damn fans that i need both









edit: although i think mine is on its way out, the first fan channel no longer responds to me changing the speed of the fan, it just goes max speed all the time.

I think there is a MFC3 now hmmmm


----------



## BWG

New water cooled machine. Hey, it is friday and as basic as this is, I







at myself!










Add it Kevin! Do it lol.


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;13822540*
> *snip*


That's one of XSPC's cases, right? How do you like it?


----------



## NaeKuh

Cheers all!

My System is called Nadeshiko:
Specs:









Case is a MM:
Side:

















Rad Chamber:









The front:









The 6 pumps which powers 3 loops:









The closeup of the koolance 402x2 with ddc sinks:









I am probably the only one u guys will ever see, who uses this dual inlet top, with dual DDC-2:









IO sector up front you see is this:









LOL if this is OT i appologize.. but i fell in love with blingy screws this project:









they make your stuff so much nicer visually.


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13819811*
> Can we get some pics of the inside? Thats amazing :0


yeah sure


















I decided to mount the bay res horizontally after that first pic was taken so I can put in a custom 5.25" bay cover w/ LEDs







(First pick you can see the res/pump)

I got this guy overclocked to 3.2ghz now and idle at 33c







Good enough for me!


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaeKuh;13823965*
> Cheers all!
> 
> My System is called Nadeshiko:
> Specs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case is a MM:
> Side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rad Chamber:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 6 pumps which powers 3 loops:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closeup of the koolance 402x2 with ddc sinks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am probably the only one u guys will ever see, who uses this dual inlet top, with dual DDC-2:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IO sector up front you see is this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL if this is OT i appologize.. but i fell in love with blingy screws this project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they make your stuff so much nicer visually.


welcome to OCN NaeKuh:drunken:


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;13824301*
> welcome to OCN NaeKuh:drunken:


lol thanks... been here a while back ago... but got in trouble.

the mods said if im nice.. i can come back.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaeKuh;13824344*
> lol thanks... been here a while back ago... but got in trouble.
> 
> the mods said if im nice.. i can come back.


40 posts in 4 years ...







,it only took me 16 posts @ Joel's forum to get pink
lol:gunner:


----------



## BWG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaeKuh;13824344*
> lol thanks... been here a while back ago... but got in trouble.
> 
> the mods said if im nice.. i can come back.


Put that rig in your system profile if you can fit all the hardware, geesh! That thing is a beast!


----------



## Boyboyd

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1pus3gcj2M[/ame]

Watching in 720p just adds to the magic.


----------



## NaeKuh

LOL wanna hear my system Dyno?



Thats a Run i did on BurnTest.. u can tell when it reaches 100% thanks to the rheobus PWM controlling my san aces.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

why the air


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13825555*
> why the air


Thats the fans on my radiators powering up @ 100%


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Was talking about boyd's loop having air inside.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13825696*
> Was talking about boyd's loop having air inside.


I think it's because it's the lowest point of my loop. I'm not 100% sure though. It took about 10 minutes for the water level in the left tube to rise.


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13825696*
> Was talking about boyd's loop having air inside.


that was a classic attempt at sarcasm.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13825724*
> I think it's because it's the lowest point of my loop. I'm not 100% sure though. It took about 10 minutes for the water level in the left tube to rise.


I think you need a better pump boyd ..X2O 750 ?


----------



## logan666

h70 and watercooled sli 480 xD


----------



## badatgames18

what rad is that? ^^

how many mm? is it in push pull?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;13825762*
> I think you need a better pump boyd ..X2O 750 ?


Yep. I've thought about adding a D5. But i have no idea where to put one. How do pumps usually fasten to case floors?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13825795*
> Yep. I've thought about adding a D5. But i have no idea where to put one. How do pumps usually fasten to case floors?


Screws, that's how it is with my 355.


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13825778*
> what rad is that? ^^
> 
> how many mm? is it in push pull?


are you talking to me?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13825795*
> Yep. I've thought about adding a D5. But i have no idea where to put one. How do pumps usually fasten to case floors?


dont recomend it.. unless both pumps collectively will produce less then what they would with 0 restrictions.

Usually very hard to do unless u have a really restrictive loop.

But if u make the other pump overwork, because of the second pump, your overworked pump will heat up, and then die early.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13825795*
> Yep. I've thought about adding a D5. But i have no idea where to put one. How do pumps usually fasten to case floors?


you can install it anywhere,single DDC 3.25 or X35 would be better in my opinion if you mix 2 pumps you want them to be similar (I'm not sure about mixing 750/D5) this way you avoid the noise possible pump cavitation


----------



## logan666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13825778*
> what rad is that? ^^
> 
> how many mm? is it in push pull?


rx 360 jusy pull


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hi, I built a watercooling rig like a year ago and I feel the need to get back into watercooling mod....should I add another radiator ???? I have 2 feser, one 360 and one 240... And I dont remember the web site of the guys who make modded case and modded side panel.... someone know which site Im talking about???

Thank you and feel free to tell me any recommendations


----------



## nzftw

Why have you got your kill coil in your drain line!?

Thats a bad thing isnt it?


----------



## UltrasonicTwo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;13830168*
> Hi, I built a watercooling rig like a year ago and I feel the need to get back into watercooling mod....should I add another radiator ???? I have 2 feser, one 360 and one 240... And I dont remember the web site of the guys who make modded case and modded side panel.... someone know which site Im talking about???
> 
> Thank you and feel free to tell me any recommendations


well there is NOTHING wrong with your loop but if you want to spend some more money then id say get a Koolance rp-450 dual bay dual pump res and either split it into 2 loops or go series

you must beable to add another rad where your exhaust fan is now ( not that you need too)

you really should W/C your ram to complete the look.

If you want your rig to look top notch then the trend is to NOT have curved tubing just straight piping which means you need to spend heaps more on fittings but it would look totally awesome:thumb:

That's my opinion


----------



## joetemp75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;13825766*
> h70 and watercooled sli 480 xD


Nice poster on the wall


----------



## joetemp75

Can I get in


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;13830620*
> Why have you got your kill coil in your drain line!?
> 
> Thats a bad thing isnt it?


not really, as long as the silver is in contact with same liquid it's doing its job. I put mine in the res and forget


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;13830620*
> Why have you got your kill coil in your drain line!?
> 
> Thats a bad thing isnt it?


I have a kill coil in Res and in drain line because the drain line gets dirty, but even with the coil in it, it get dirty because there is no flow
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltrasonicTwo;13830631*
> well there is NOTHING wrong with your loop but if you want to spend some more money then id say get a Koolance rp-450 dual bay dual pump res and either split it into 2 loops or go series
> 
> you must beable to add another rad where your exhaust fan is now ( not that you need too)
> 
> you really should W/C your ram to complete the look.
> 
> If you want your rig to look top notch then the trend is to NOT have curved tubing just straight piping which means you need to spend heaps more on fittings but it would look totally awesome:thumb:
> 
> That's my opinion


I already have EK Dual Top for MCP 655, I think Im gonna go for the back 140 rad or 120 rad


----------



## logan666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joetemp75;13830838*
> Nice poster on the wall


thanks


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;13831113*
> I have a kill coil in Res and in drain line because the drain line gets dirty, but even with the coil in it, it get dirty because there is no flow


Is there anything you can do to keep the drain line clear ?

Mine is slowly turning yellow'ish while the rest of the tubing stays clear.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;13831113*
> I have a kill coil in Res and in drain line because the drain line gets dirty, but even with the coil in it, it get dirty because there is no flow


Is the tubing you used for the drain line the same tubing as the rest of the loop?

The "clouding" of the plastic tubing is due to the plasticizers that is used during the manufacture of the tubing itself. It is a reaction of the the plasticizers that is used during the manufacturing process. Plasticizers is what gives the tubing it's flexibility - the more flexible the tubing, the more plasticizer was used. The only way to prevent this is to use plasticizer free tubing (Tygon has it that I know of and it's used for water purification systems) or use colored tubing. The colored tubing seems to have much less of this reaction. Kill coils or biocides will not prevent this from occurring.


----------



## Genesis.au

Bit of a progress pic, haven't go any others atm, was to keen to run some temps but you get the idea


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Genesis.au;13832847*
> Bit of a progress pic, haven't go any others atm, was to keen to run some temps but you get the idea


Really cool looking. Got anymore pics?


----------



## Genesis.au

Nah i don't atm, ill try get some tomorrow outside, hopefully some better weather tomorrow (i use my phone, needs good lighting :S)

Anyway, someone thought i was lying about my CPU temps when i first posted about my setup, so heres a pic of the GPU temps

bare in mind, it is fairly cold atm (ambient of about 12 - 14c).



Few things ill answer before someone tries to have a go









Last night, similar ambients. gpu was idle at 41c, i did furmark runs of the same length/settings and it hit 83, 86, 85 in three spaced out runs.

YES, my cpu is only at 3.5, my last mobo died from a high OC (or so ive been told) and really dont want to kill another.


----------



## leoakirakblo

Hi all.. here is my 2nd rig... I still have not finished it ... but I'm posting a picture of how it is now ..I hope you enjoy (google translator MODE ON XD)


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Guess why I did this...




































OK, I'll tell you. I'm adding a 120mm rad to the drive bays. The upper holes are to clearance the fan controller, which has moved forward 2mm (hit the door), and up a bay (sharing the same bay as the built in rad). The big hole is for, well, I'll let you figure that out.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13832801*
> Is the tubing you used for the drain line the same tubing as the rest of the loop?
> 
> The "clouding" of the plastic tubing is due to the plasticizers that is used during the manufacture of the tubing itself. It is a reaction of the the plasticizers that is used during the manufacturing process. Plasticizers is what gives the tubing it's flexibility - the more flexible the tubing, the more plasticizer was used. The only way to prevent this is to use plasticizer free tubing (Tygon has it that I know of and it's used for water purification systems) or use colored tubing. The colored tubing seems to have much less of this reaction. Kill coils or biocides will not prevent this from occurring.


I think it was the same but anyway, yesterday I changed the water in my loop and removed the clear tubing and I add a UV Feser Red similar to the rest of the loop tubing, anyway, its useless to have a clear drain line because it doesnt tell if the water is clean, I look in the reservoir instead... anyway, I now know that the drain line will always get like this


----------



## BWG

I have another update coming. Kevin, thanks again for all you do in this thread! I kept looking at my loop and just decided to make the shelf for the pump/res combo. I cut out a lot of tubing and I think I am really happy with this all together. Tubing and fittings down the road possibly.


----------



## gottistar




----------



## superhead91

@gottistar Looks great! I really like what you did with the ROG sticker. I've never seen anyone put it there before.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13839434*
> @gottistar Looks great! I really like what you did with the ROG sticker. I've never seen anyone put it there before.


I'll second that! Makes me wish I didn't put mine on my laptop


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *logan666*


h70 and watercooled sli 480 xD


Good luck with that EK nickel







Have you checked your blocks?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


Hi, I built a watercooling rig like a year ago and I feel the need to get back into watercooling mod....should I add another radiator ???? I have 2 feser, one 360 and one 240... And I dont remember the web site of the guys who make modded case and modded side panel.... someone know which site Im talking about???

Thank you and feel free to tell me any recommendations


Are you thinking of MNPCTech or something?


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gottistar*


[Pictures]


These made me want to get a Phantom case! :O

And BTW is it okay if I use your idea for the ROG sticker or is there a copyright on it?


----------



## gottistar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur;13840565*
> These made me want to get a Phantom case! :O
> 
> And BTW is it okay if I use your idea for the ROG sticker or is there a copyright on it?


You,ll have to wait until you get permission from ASUS to use that sticker in such a way


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gottistar;13839259*


amazing


----------



## BWG

I agree, but it is such a patriotic color scheme too!


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;13818986*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RS240, Arctic cooling F12 fans, xspc rasa waterblock


i have one of these as a torrent box....and a spare swiftech 240







mwahahaha, bring me my tools


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;13833381*
> Guess why I did this...
> 
> OK, I'll tell you. I'm adding a 120mm rad to the drive bays. The upper holes are to clearance the fan controller, which has moved forward 2mm (hit the door), and up a bay (sharing the same bay as the built in rad). The big hole is for, well, I'll let you figure that out.


I have not seen that type of case in a while, nice case!


----------



## n0n44m

loop:

EK Spin Bay reservoir
Aqua Computer Aquastream XT Ultra pump _+ Shoggy Sandwich_
Aqua Computer Filter
Watercool MoRa 3 9*140 radiator with 6 1400 rpm YL & 3 1000 rpm YL _+ MoRa Case Side Mounting_
EK Supreme HF Copper Acetal block
Aqua Computer AquagraFX GTX480 block
Aqua Computer High Flow Meter

Demineralized water + KillCoil
EK Compression fittings
Alphacool 45 (2) & 90 degrees compression fittings
Masterkleer 10/13mm UV Blue hose
Bitspower pass-through for fillport & drainport
Koolance Quick Disconnects for MoRa external radiator
External radiator fans get power from modded molex I/O slot passthrough

Aqua Computer Aquaero 5 PRO monitoring & fan control
=> RGB LED in reservoir is water temperature controlled : 20c *blue*, 25c *green*, 30c *red*
Fan RPM's are controlled by Water-Intake temperature delta
ATX power break in case of pump failure/high temps
Extra 80 mm BeQuiet PWM fan mounted behind Aquaero for cooling when undervolting all 12 fans (9 rad 3 case)

results :

120 liters/hour flowrate
4c water delta in Bad Company 2 with ~800 rpm fans
extremely silent in idle

bonus shot of the bottom

comments :

top and front plates modded with 3M Di-Noc carbon fiber ... nice stuff








painted inside black using metal paint from a can ... acceptable and cheap but spraying would be better
extremely heavy, even without the radiator attached ... can't make decent pictures of the inside as I f'ed up my back when trying to lift it yesterday for some cable management


----------



## SimpleTech

Got another 5870.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;13845340*
> Got another 5870.


You're using VGA... what is wrong with you?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13845366*
> You're using VGA... what is wrong with you?


CRT > most LCDs


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;13845379*
> CRT > most LCDs


Some CRTs


----------



## Alatar

Just ordered some stuff for 250€. Now I have a warm fuzzy feeling, waiting is always so much fun in a way









Will post some pics when they get here.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Some pics of my new setup. The hosing is a little long cause of the res in the front when I have to pull it out and fill it (and I am a bit of a watercooling noob). Hopefully I'll pickup some bitspower fittings for a cleaner look soon. Enjoy!


----------



## NaeKuh

looks like u just got that loop setup not too long ago.

looks very clean.


----------



## Alex132

Lots of bubbles in that loop


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;13845379*
> CRT > most LCDs


I love my trinitron


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13846525*
> Lots of bubbles in that loop


Yeah, I'm really not sure why I have so many in the cpu return line. It was the same in my previous loop aswell. They don't seem to raise the temps as far as I can tell but they probably don't help


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13799303*
> also could you guys point me in the right direction for fairly cheap compression fittings for the rasa kits? again, trying to keep the whole thing under ~$400


Bump...mostly looking for the size lately math has been numbers have been giving me headaches, especially with factoring quadratic equations, etc.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ilocos boy

update


----------



## Aeru

^Nice build.

Edit: HelloKitty mousepad?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mav2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13847520*
> Bump...mostly looking for the size lately math has been numbers have been giving me headaches, especially with factoring quadratic equations, etc.


Xspc fittings come in black nickel and from the pictures look really very nice. They have a smaller form factor than most other compression fittings as well. And they seem to cost less than half the price of BP compressions in the UK. They have 3 sizes, so should suit most needs.


----------



## THC Butterz

ordered the parts for my first loop last night...how did I do??


----------



## BWG

Only 1 ft of tubing?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13855459*
> Only 1 ft of tubing?


quantity says 7


----------



## superhead91

So, with the whole EK nickel plating fiasco, what CPU block would you guys recommend? I like the looks of the kryos and heatkiller blocks, and I know the koolance 370 is good, although I don't like the looks as much. I want the block to be silver or black, and unfortunately it seems like a lot of block manufacturers kinda make AMD stuff second priority. What's the difference between the kryos xt and delrin?

Edit: I don't like the heatkiller AMD brackets, but in some places I see the block shown for AMD and the brackets look similar to the intel brackets. Does heatkiller really have that, or are the sites just using the same picture for both blocks?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13855189*
> ordered the parts for my first loop last night...how did I do??


I also got this


----------



## Tweak17emon

heres my build. these picts are slightly old, ive changed my motherboard and added a 2nd gfx card. ill post new picts tonight for sure





































suggestions/comments? love to hear back!


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13855850*
> I also got this


That pump might be a bit weak since all your components are quite restrictive.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;13855978*
> That pump might be a bit weak since all your components are quite restrictive.


??????? ARE you kidding? please tell me what is restrictive? I asked the same question about the same items and if I needed a bigger pump and everyone, I mean Everyone said that it was the best pump and would not need better or two, so what is it? dose the pump not preform or dose it? I am very curious now


----------



## Onions

that is a super badass pump it will be fine


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13856133*
> ??????? ARE you kidding? please tell me what is restrictive? I asked the same question about the same items and if I needed a bigger pump and everyone, I mean Everyone said that it was the best pump and would not need better or two, so what is it? dose the pump not preform or dose it? I am very curious now


Apogee XT rev1 and MCW80 are both very restrictive. Also Black Ice radiators are are a bit more restrictive than for example XSPC rads. MCP655-B is the same as normal MCP655 on setting 4, head pressure is much weaker than on setting 5.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;13855978*
> That pump might be a bit weak since all your components are quite restrictive.


No. I will be fine.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## amantonas

People here have gotten used to recommending extremely overkill parts so that the user won't have problems. That pump should be more than fine for your application. If you're going to have like 5 gpus and 5 rads, get a 355.


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amantonas;13856679*
> People here have gotten used to recommending extremely overkill parts so that the user won't have problems. That pump should be more than fine for your application. If you're going to have like 5 gpus and 5 rads, get a 355.


no its more on the notion that bigger is better.

Bigger the engine.. better the car.
The bigger the rims, the better it is...

Its not always the case.

And i have told people this countless amounts of time... bigger is sometimes better, but only when u got efficiency running behind it, and not lagging too behind.

Example... my system is what u would call backups for backups for backups.
Reason why i say that is its on 3 loops, 6 pumps with QDC's.
That means on a catastrophy, i can afford to lose 2 complete loops, and 5 pumps b4 i have to shelf the system.

The odds of that occuring are very slim.

Each loop themselves would require 1 pump failure, and with almost 3/4 of a gallon in coolant spread out to all 3 loops, she has quite a significant holding capacity.

so why did u get all that eq? did it have any real meaning behind it or did u do it because someone said it was cool?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13855639*
> So, with the whole EK nickel plating fiasco, what CPU block would you guys recommend? I like the looks of the kryos and heatkiller blocks, and I know the koolance 370 is good, although I don't like the looks as much. I want the block to be silver or black, and unfortunately it seems like a lot of block manufacturers kinda make AMD stuff second priority. What's the difference between the kryos xt and delrin?
> 
> Edit: I don't like the heatkiller AMD brackets, but in some places I see the block shown for AMD and the brackets look similar to the intel brackets. Does heatkiller really have that, or are the sites just using the same picture for both blocks?


Anyone?


----------



## Triangle

The kyros xt is a great block. I have a 370 at the moment and I love it.


----------



## superhead91

Hmm... what about the EK supreme hf acetal... it has a copper base so it should be fine, right?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13856584*
> No. I will be fine.


Have you personally tried that combination , I mean MCP655-b, Apogee XT and MCW80 ? I have and I can tell that flow rate looked pretty slow.


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13856900*
> Anyone?


there shouldnt be anything different from a top change.

The main importance is the base.

Also note, in vapors test, a moded oring was required.

You need to mod an oring to bow out the plate even more for a better contact.
(if a mod feels he needs to delete this picture please do so)









But u need to mod that black oring by installing i think another oring on top, to bow out the base to make it perform better then a 370 out of the box.

I recomend the 370, because of its simple mounting system, and the fact its not very mount sensitive. Meaning it has very constant mounts.


----------



## Tweak17emon

i feel mah post was ignored


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon;13855957*
> heres my build. these picts are slightly old, ive changed my motherboard and added a 2nd gfx card. ill post new picts tonight for sure
> 
> suggestions/comments? love to hear back!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon;13857409*
> i feel mah post was ignored


lol because u said u would come back with finished pics.

right now its an airbox..


----------



## Tweak17emon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaeKuh;13857436*
> right now its an airbox..


the loop didnt change at all with a mobo change or the addition of a 2nd gpu and block.. and its on water


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;13857043*
> Have you personally tried that combination , I mean MCP655-b, Apogee XT and MCW80 ? I have and I can tell that flow rate looked pretty slow.


I have asked this question countless times and not once did you pop up and say that the MCP655-B was slow/week also I have the apogee xt rev2 as well as the guy THC Butterz is ordering now, so it will be rev2 as well all sold after March are! as per swiftech! I can tell you that no one says that even the rev1 was restrictive let alone rev2 which is better, and the MCW80 well every reviewer said that it was surprising the hell out of them on how well it preformed and how NOT restrictive it was, it was the least restrictive one on one on the members list in here! I wish if all this is wrong that I get some apologies as I bought this same set up for my LAN rig as per everyone's advise but yours which was not here when I asked. I just don't get how everyone would tell me different than you are saying, I am not trying to fight just trying to get to the truth and also ease my buying post-jitters with not going with full water blocks for the LAN


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon;13855957*
> heres my build. these picts are slightly old, ive changed my motherboard and added a 2nd gfx card. ill post new picts tonight for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> suggestions/comments? love to hear back!


Ohh damm dude, thats such a great built, guess it took you a while to think about this masterpiece, good luck with the rest and I might ask you some help because I'm selling my PC to do another project


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13857609*
> I have asked this question countless times and not once did you pop up and say that the MCP655-B was slow/week also I have the apogee xt rev2 as well as the guy THC Butterz is ordering now, so it will be rev2 as well all sold after March are! as per swiftech! I can tell you that no one says that even the rev1 was restrictive let alone rev2 which is better, and the MCW80 well every reviewer said that it was surprising the hell out of them on how well it preformed and how NOT restrictive it was, it was the least restrictive one on one on the members list in here! I wish if all this is wrong that I get some apologies as I bought this same set up for my LAN rig as per everyone's advise but yours which was not here when I asked. I just don't get how everyone would tell me different than you are saying, I am not trying to fight just trying to get to the truth and also ease my buying post-jitters with not going with full water blocks for the LAN


Apogee XT rev 2 is not so bad but MCW80 is seriously restrictive : http://skinneelabs.com/universalgpu-nv480/8/


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon;13857523*
> the loop didnt change at all with a mobo change or the addition of a 2nd gpu and block.. and its on water


oh woops..

i thought those were cable routing..

I was waiting on the "finished", because we dont know if your going to keep to that direction.


----------



## joetemp75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc;7303872*
> well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.
> 
> Specs:
> Swiftech MCP655-b
> Swiftech MCP655
> Swiftech MCR320
> Swiftech MCR320
> Swiftech MCR320
> Swiftech MCW60
> Swiftech MicroRes v2
> Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
> 18x High Speed Yate loons.


That is just awesome


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000;13855072*
> Xspc fittings come in black nickel and from the pictures look really very nice. They have a smaller form factor than most other compression fittings as well. And they seem to cost less than half the price of BP compressions in the UK. They have 3 sizes, so should suit most needs.


which size is the one for the rasa kit? 7/16 i believe ive seen on some of the parts in it


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon;13855957*
> heres my build. these picts are slightly old, ive changed my motherboard and added a 2nd gfx card. ill post new picts tonight for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> suggestions/comments? love to hear back!


OMG it's Tweak!!! Better see you at MML in august. Dolphin and Whale FTW! You just need to add some more rad to that setup and clean up the wiring. You'll see much better temps with even a 120 added. There are also smaller 80mm ones you can shove on the fans up top.

edit: Just saw you all signed up again. Ur right in front of us a few seats down.


----------



## Rapid7

My TJ-07.










Still some bits too finish.


----------



## Petrol

Finally got my GTX 460 under water









attaching memory sinks









the swiftech MCW80 block and GT200 adapter plate









ooo shiny. no need to lap this sucka!









the fit after modding the adapter plate. those with sharper eyes will notice it's a bit off but it was late in the day when i did this and i just wanted it done!!!









I was worried about clearance issues with the memory sinks, pleased to say there were none

















So.. for anyone else wondering about watercooling a non-reference 460, this yielded great results. The card only got up to 35 degrees after a few hours BOINCing versus 70 degrees on air, and that's with water coming straight from the CPU block.


----------



## Modus




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

does anyone have or know about Indigo extreme? I am getting ready to change out just the MOBO and am not shur if I have to change the Indi. just for that the kit came with two installs so I have it but was hoping to save for BD but don't want to F'up my CPU now lol. So does anyone know for shur if it would have to be changed or can it be fine just to take cpu water block off and put it right back on same cpu???

EDIT: will it reflow? if I do leave it I guess


----------



## soulster

@Rapid7: o0o0o where did you get the 92mm gt's?

@Petrol: how was temperatures on other components? (eg. memory, vrm, etc)


----------



## Rapid7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulster;13863214*
> @Rapid7: o0o0o where did you get the 92mm gt's?
> 
> @Petrol: how was temperatures on other components? (eg. memory, vrm, etc)


I got them from specialtech in the UK about 3 months ago they only had 3 in stock at the time & now they no longer keep them i'm pretty sure they are end of life now.


----------



## wermad




----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13864742*
> pics


----------



## fortunesolace

@wermad, could you please torture us with more pics of the HK blocks.


----------



## wermad

One down, two to go


----------



## clubber_lang

Man , I haven't posted much here in a while , but I took some time to skim through the last 30 pages or so. There are some really great looking machines in this thread!


----------



## fortunesolace

Oh, yes! I can breath easier now!


----------



## miahallen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n0n44m;13843764*


Nice....good and clean for a MORA build








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe;13846303*


You need a GPU block for that monster







Nice build








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon;13855957*


Those DD acrylic build always looks so good when they're new....but I'd worry about how they look after a few months of dust accumulation


----------



## superhead91

Is a koolance pmp-400 pump the same as an mcp350? Basically, will a koolance reservoir made to hold a pmp-400 pump work with the mcp350?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13865912*
> Is a koolance pmp-400 pump the same as an mcp350? Basically, will a koolance reservoir made to hold a pmp-400 pump work with the mcp350?


it should, yes.


----------



## Tweak17emon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;13857653*
> Ohh damm dude, thats such a great built, guess it took you a while to think about this masterpiece, good luck with the rest and I might ask you some help because I'm selling my PC to do another project


no problem. just let me know if you want any advice/suggestions. I would recommend any danger den case. I'm actually wanting to upgrade to the double wide case to add more radiators and do chipset cooling, but alas the waterbox will be a tough case to sell








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaeKuh;13857852*
> oh woops..
> 
> i thought those were cable routing..
> 
> I was waiting on the "finished", because we dont know if your going to keep to that direction.


I was lazy last night and didn't post any pictures. will do it tonight for sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;13859113*
> OMG it's Tweak!!! Better see you at MML in august. Dolphin and Whale FTW! You just need to add some more rad to that setup and clean up the wiring. You'll see much better temps with even a 120 added. There are also smaller 80mm ones you can shove on the fans up top.
> 
> edit: Just saw you all signed up again. Ur right in front of us a few seats down.


dude, Ive been trying to hit you up on steam for some time, login sometime. we need to get a tf2 scrim going. DOLPHIN AND WHALE + Tweak will return to MML to have some fun








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miahallen;13865653*
> Those DD acrylic build always looks so good when they're new....but I'd worry about how they look after a few months of dust accumulation


actually mine doesn't get dusty at all. i have mesh air filters on the backside of the radiator, although while its sitting at home, i have the top and side off it so its open air. even with it being open since late February (~4 months), there is no dust buildup. the big issue is the cold cathodes attached to the acrylic, because the acrylic gets hot from the UV and they like to fall off. needless to say im getting the inverter-less cathodes in the coming month to help with cable management and because they stick better to acrylic (i replaced one cathode already, and its sweet).

heres some more pictures. again, they arnt 100% up to date. they have the new mobo (asus sabertooth x58 to asus rampage IV formula x58) and i replaced the tubing (going from clear to UV blue), and changed liquid (****ty premade uv reactive to distilled water + dead water and kill coil). The 2nd gfx card isnt in because there was a leak on the barb which actually killed the card (ask fat_italian_stallion who saw the aftermath, the leak happened the day before the last Lanwar event, and we were 350 miles from home) and i was still waiting for the replacement. ill upload SLI picts tonight, which will also have the inverterless cathode in it.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13866954*
> it should, yes.


Awesome. I want a reservoir to attach my mcp350 to, but my only choices from what I've seen are an XSPC one and the koolance one. I don't really like the brushed metal look of the XSPC one as it wouldn't really match my case. Looks like I'll be going with the koolance one.


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13865014*
> One down, two to go












and yes it takes at least 2 to tango:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13865912*
> Is a koolance pmp-400 pump the same as an mcp350? Basically, will a koolance reservoir made to hold a pmp-400 pump work with the mcp350?


yes they are all laing DDC's however..

the pmp 400 is the ddc-3.25
The mcp 350 = ddc 3.1
mcp 355 = ddc 3.2

The D5's
mcp 655 = pmp - 450
pmp-450S = D5 Strong 24V

the pmp-400 outclasses the ddc 3.2, so the pmp-400 is a better pump.
The only pump which is better in the ddc class is the mcp-35x.

But u can not open a swiftech pump up without voiding warrenty.


----------



## wermad




----------



## nzftw

its missing that touch? I think it was the Bling ram block.









Great to see the new SB build in there though.

Personally i think the Rasa is a little characterless, Kryos would of looked heaps better, or HK to go with the cards.

Let us know what clocks your gettin


----------



## ProRules

This is my little loop:
And its Q6600 cooled and stupid 8600GT lol i cant run san andreas on max...
anyway


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


its missing that touch? I think it was the Bling ram block.









Great to see the new SB build in there though.

Personally i think the Rasa is a little characterless, Kryos would of looked heaps better, or HK to go with the cards.

Let us know what clocks your gettin










yes, this time, no mb blocks and ram blocks. i'm just going for the bare essentials. Nothing outrageous...but wait...I still have two 480mm rads







.

Time to start pushing my chip to 5.0


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


yes, this time, no mb blocks and ram blocks. i'm just going for the bare essentials. Nothing outrageous...but wait...I still have two 480mm rads







.

Time to start pushing my chip to 5.0










Looks great, I'm a bit curious why you didn't go for the HK cpu block though....


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*


Looks great, I'm a bit curious why you didn't go for the HK cpu block though....


I thought the Rasa would support my TFC compression fittings, but its not the case. I should have picked up the HK from the beginning had I known this









The rasa should perform fine tbh


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I thought the Rasa would support my TFC compression fittings, but its not the case. I should have picked up the HK from the beginning had I known this









The rasa should perform fine tbh










Yeah, the Rasa block is a great high flow block which helps when you're running a couple gpu blocks in the same loop. I have one waiting to go into my future bulldozer build!


----------



## Annex

rx120's are ridiculously huge, which is a testament to how big 800d's are considering how I can easily just place it in the bottom with no effort, at all..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;13873695*
> rx120's are ridiculously huge, which is a testament to how big 800d's are considering how I can easily just place it in the bottom with no effort, at all..


I has two RX480s in mines


----------



## THC Butterz

Can I join??
my first loop:


----------



## bundymania

looks good !


----------



## Elganja

mine:


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Elganja*


mine:










Is that 590's or 580's in sli?


----------



## Elganja

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Johnsen*


Is that 590's or 580's in sli?


neither... they are evga 480 ftw hydro copper's


----------



## ccli

beautiful!!!


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Elganja*


neither... they are evga 480 ftw hydro copper's


I see, I just had a look at the 590 hydro copper and thought they looked alike exept that the evga logo is illuminated. But great build, well done sir.


----------



## Petrol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soulster*


@Rapid7: o0o0o where did you get the 92mm gt's?

@Petrol: how was temperatures on other components? (eg. memory, vrm, etc)


Sorry, missed your Q amongst all the WCing bling up in here









Temps on other stuff is quite good at stock clocks, with OC the VRM gets HOT and caps become untouchable


----------



## bobfig

Update. Well I got a gtx480 2 weeks ago ant the noise and reps were horrable. I was getting 84* temps with the fan at 85% so under water it went. Now I'm getting 49* or so temps and its silent.


----------



## badatgames18

^ you needs to cable manage lol

nice!


----------



## Bradford1040

Got my new board in (SaberTooth 990FX) I love this hobby but hate it as well lol, I spent hours putting the cables in the back of mobo tray and when I pushed the door on it messed up a wire and I at fist thought I had a bad board or graphic card got damaged lol, but found that little bugger and fixed him!!!

I am going to take some pictures in abit not that I take the greatest ones lol, I only have EVO 4G phone that has cam on it but they say it is 8mega pix I just don't see it?

I did about the best I could do on the build and got a little sound proof happy lmao but I think she looks as good as some on here which was my goal, I want to know about the best light for pictures with a camera phone it is 5pm but very bright now was going to wait till 7pm? or should I wait till 8pm? just before dusk but still light?

Inside shots just look horrid (at my place) that is why I am asking on outside light


----------



## Zaucher




----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13885731*


how is that even remotely close to being needed?


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zaucher;13885731*


why so many pumps?


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13885731*


i hope you have a quad sli/ dual xeon rig you are cooling with that









maybe you can find a way to cool down your car with that also lol


----------



## Zaucher

I cool down one I7 and GTX 480 ro realize 1000 Liter/h


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13885886*
> I cool down one I7 and GTX 480 ro realize 1000 Liter/h












at this point you know it's overkill for sure, but i gotta ask... what are your temps? delta?


----------



## Zaucher

The PC is not finshed yet.
For more informations: See my Worklog









Worklog Extreme Highflow System Laing D5


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13886102*
> The PC is not finshed yet.
> For more informations: See my Worklog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worklog Extreme Highflow System Laing D5


NICE! and thank god for google translate. You could make a worklog here also... just basically copy and paste what you put on to the other site in english if you want.

I'd really like to see how it ends


----------



## thrasherht

im not going to lie, it has gone past amazing and is just stupid. Waste of money. Why don't you send one of those pumps my way.


----------



## badatgames18

btw for that much cash... you would've gotten better temps with a phaser... water can't go below ambient no matter what unless you have a chiller


----------



## Zaucher

I would like to write more information, but my english is so bad. Sry


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13886217*
> btw for that much cash... you would've gotten better temps with a phaser... water can't go below ambient no matter what unless you have a chiller


He could have gotten one pump and quite a few gallons of those extreme cooling liquids 3M makes









Edit: on another topic, I'd like to see which watercoolers this heatsink over does! I read that you have to remove this just to get to your graphics card








and yes, that's 4 120mm fans on that beast!
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46_557_779&products_id=30444









but sadly i found this-








another huge heatsink, beaten out by a D14


----------



## Willhemmens

This isn't the place for talking about air coolers.


----------



## sikisher

Guys which color combo will go with my uv orange setup like a friend recommended to go blue and orange but am not sure any ideas


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13886220*
> I would like to write more information, but my english is so bad. Sry


Mother of how many pumps do you need?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

and can someone please tell me how that many pumps will NOT blow the tubing off the fittings and cause leaks all over the place? there is absolutely NO reason for that... at all. no benefit, just lots of pump heat being dumped into the loop.


----------



## Bastyn99

@Zaucher that is the greatest thing Ive seen all day I think !
At first I thought, pff hes just showing off how many he has lying around. But then I thought HOOOO!


----------



## wermad




----------



## Bradford1040

here are the pictures I just took, (please don't make to much fun of the ring around the res., I forgot to buy woolight lol) these were taken from cell cam


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13885111*
> ^ you needs to cable manage lol
> 
> nice!


I'm not to worried on my cable management.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13886694*
> Mother of how many pumps do you need?


Are those the $199 Uber 655's I see on PPC's ??????? 10 of them as far as I can count!!!


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;13887231*
> I'm not to worried on my cable management.


you should be lol


----------



## badatgames18

here's the latest revision of my rig ^_^


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## JE Nightmare

so many pumps it hurts.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13885886*
> I cool down one I7 and GTX 480 ro realize 1000 Liter/h


I know what it is lol, the worlds first computer sex sim lol, you put your thing in the res and it sucks the crap out of it


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13887805*
> I know what it is lol, the worlds first computer sex sim lol, you put your thing in the res and it sucks the crap out of it


L...O...L


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Hope there are way more rads than that cooling the system. Need more than that just to dissipate pump heat dump. And I thought I was going with overkill having 4 of them.


----------



## soda480

got a new case:
[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3FdV2VypWo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3FdV2VypWo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3FdV2VypWo[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soda480;13889768*
> got a new case:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3FdV2VypWo


exelentayy


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13887805*
> I know what it is lol, the worlds first computer sex sim lol, you put your thing in the res and it sucks the crap out of it


Hmmmm.... but... but... but... wouldn't that gunk up the CPU water block?


----------



## Zaucher

There are 18x Laing D5 with 5x Bitspower Dualtop and 4x Koolance Dual-Tops.
I have 2x Hardwarelabs 360er Radis + 1x TC 120er

Video on Youtube:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phl9O95AH1U[/ame]

Order:


----------



## Kahbrohn

Zaucher... what is the goal of your project? That is a good number of pumps!


----------



## Zaucher

Thx..the goal of my project is to realize 1000 Liter/hour with all hardware and watercooling components


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaucher*


There are 18x Laing D5 with 5x Bitspower Dualtop and 4x Koolance Dual-Tops.
I have 2x Hardwarelabs 360er Radis + 1x TC 120er



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaucher*


Thx..the goal of my project is to realize 1000 Liter/hour with all hardware and watercooling components










Ok.. you mean that you want to have a steady flow of 1000 lit/h of water/coolant through your system with all of these items included within your loop then, right?


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaucher*


Thx..the goal of my project is to realize 1000 Liter/hour with all hardware and watercooling components










OMG! What case is going to hold this doomsday machine?


----------



## Alex132

Aren't you worried about leaks, that's a lotta things for the water to travel through


----------



## subtec

That's a lot to spend in pursuit of an utterly worthless number


----------



## Zaucher

@kahbrohn: Right









@Johnsen: The Case is a Lian Li 343B Server Cube

The problem is the high pressure:

this happened at 1000 liter highflow


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaucher*


@kahbrohn: Right









@Johnsen: The Case is a Lian Li 343B Server Cube

The problem is the high pressure:

this happened at 1000 liter highflow












see now that is exactly what I expected, and part of why your goal seems so pointless... you are to the point where adding more makes things worse.


----------



## Alex132

Surely pumps in series = no higher pressure


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaucher*


@kahbrohn: Right










Ok... Now I understand. I was a bit confused because in looking at the specifications of a D5 pump, these pumps are capable of 1200 lit/h by themselves. I see that you are trying to compensate for the restriction of other components within the loop.

Now, how did you calculate that you would need that many pumps or did you arbitrarily decide that this would be the appropriate amount of pumps?

As for the leak, I'd start taking pumps out of the loop to see. I am no expert in this so I can not say if it's pointless or not, but your goal is 1000 lit/h on average so go for it. Keep us posted on your results as you go along.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Surely pumps in series = no higher pressure


yes it does, anytime the velocity increases the pressure increases. it is all related to the available head.


----------



## Alex132

I thought it would only push the water at 1000L/h, then reach the next pump at lets say 850L/h, that pump would then accelerate the water to 1000L/h and so on, unless you are combining it to use it as 'one' pump somehow.


----------



## Onions

lol so just saying its time to put some dust filters on this lol only 2 weeks of dust XD the renovation in my house is killing me XD


----------



## t-ramp

So, here's more or less what I'm using in Forever Young:


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13895041*
> lol so just saying its time to put some dust filters on this lol only 2 weeks of dust XD the renovation in my house is killing me XD


Wow that is pretty bad. Imagine your lungs.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13895041*
> lol so just saying its time to put some dust filters on this lol only 2 weeks of dust XD the renovation in my house is killing me XD


Winter clothing??? Is that wool? Lol... man... maintenance is a must at this point!


----------



## fortunesolace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;13895041*
> lol so just saying its time to put some dust filters on this lol only 2 weeks of dust XD the renovation in my house is killing me XD
> 
> *image snip*
> 
> Wow, the dust looked like fans have already been installed.


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;13895679*
> So, here's more or less what I'm using in Forever Young:


there is something about your system i really like..

but i cant pick it out..

Its wierd... the package as a complete, its nice.
But its hard saying 1 part stands out over the rest.

Its the first time ive seen a completely balanced well built PC visually.








Typically most systems have 1 thing thats overpowering visually... yours is completely balanced.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaeKuh;13896439*
> there is something about your system i really like..
> 
> but i cant pick it out..
> 
> Its wierd... the package as a complete, its nice.
> But its hard saying 1 part stands out over the rest.
> 
> Its the first time ive seen a completely balanced well built PC visually.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Typically most systems have 1 thing thats overpowering visually... yours is completely balanced.


It just looks so clean and it's simple. Pictures are nicely taken as well. As soon as that optical drive is painted it should be perfect.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13892018*
> There are 18x Laing D5 with 5x Bitspower Dualtop and 4x Koolance Dual-Tops.
> I have 2x Hardwarelabs 360er Radis + 1x TC 120er
> 
> Video on Youtube:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phl9O95AH1U


see and as I said before this video proves it the res top is even off to put something in there, it mite be solid at first but liquid will come out lol, could you imagine the face on E.M.S. if it got stuck in there lmao an they thought they had seen it all!

(If you reed or read first post about this it will make better sense)


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13892018*
> There are 18x Laing D5 with 5x Bitspower Dualtop and 4x Koolance Dual-Tops.
> I have 2x Hardwarelabs 360er Radis + 1x TC 120er












all i have to say is hats off to you sir!









However let me tell you something u completely didnt calculate.
D5's dump heat back into the loop.
How much? A lot more then a DDC, because the D5 has a Steel chamber vs plastic on a DDC.

1 by itself is no problem.
2 by itself with a decient rad no problem.

18 together ... u've added a significant amount of heat.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13887565*
> Are those the $199 Uber 655's I see on PPC's ??????? 10 of them as far as I can count!!!


You can actually buy the parts seperately and save ~$40


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaeKuh;13896869*
> 
> However let me tell you something u completely didnt calculate.
> D5's dump heat back into the loop.
> How much? A lot more then a DDC, because the D5 has a Steel chamber vs plastic on a DDC.
> 
> 1 by itself is no problem.
> 2 by itself with a decient rad no problem.
> 
> 18 together ... u've added a significant amount of heat.


exactly my thoughts. Each pump dumps 24 watts into the loop which comes out to 432 watts of heat dump. With that much heat dump there's no way that loop will ever perform well without a massive amount of radiators. I can understand going for a super low water/air delta with tons of rads and fans, but super high flow actually destroys performance. System will be nothing more than mediocre in the end performance wise.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13893235*
> I thought it would only push the water at 1000L/h, then reach the next pump at lets say 850L/h, that pump would then accelerate the water to 1000L/h and so on, unless you are combining it to use it as 'one' pump somehow.


doesn't work like that at all, one of the fundamental laws of fluid dynamics is that if you have fluid flow through a closed loop, the flow rate is the same at any point in the loop because of the conservation of mass. so there really is no acceleration because of the pumps, it is that the pumps add pressure which increases the flow rate in the loop.


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13896278*
> Winter clothing??? Is that wool? Lol... man... maintenance is a must at this point!


i know lol i clean that rad all the time we just had to cut some drywall down here and well you can see the rest


----------



## jacobthellamer

Redoing my loop - half way there, need to cable manage and put a fill port in to hold the res in place









I will have to make up a new bracket for my pump too..

Using PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing with feser VS.C° and some free dye. (The rad is stained from the previous owner so I had to stick with blue)

The 5400 gentle typhoons are insane but I can drop them down to 1900 using the fan controller on my motherboard. They work well but I am looking forward to my group buy fans


----------



## bundymania




----------



## DirectOverkill

@jacobthellamer
you got lots of air bubbles in reservoir. Any ideas how to get them out?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirectOverkill;13904973*
> @jacobthellamer
> you got lots of air bubbles in reservoir. Any ideas how to get them out?


time...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirectOverkill;13904973*
> @jacobthellamer
> you got lots of air bubbles in reservoir. Any ideas how to get them out?


with the inlet at the top of the res they probably never will go away.


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13905264*
> with the inlet at the top of the res they probably never will go away.


I had filled the loop not long before I took the photo, the bubbles seem to have bubbled to the top now









I just need to top up my res.


----------



## Bradford1040

not that most of us in this thread would have this problem but this is about thee best on line video I have ever watched Piracy


----------



## Jan Kyster

Having a break during build and contemplating if RAM PCB shouldn't be white...


----------



## grishkathefool

Ram pcb?


----------



## NaeKuh

i thought this thread was limited to completed system pictures.

Its been a cache of watercooling parts, and if thats the case, i can show u guys some stuff which would make u go:

O M G W T F B B Q ^2

I am xtreme for Xtreme systems even..


----------



## Aeru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NaeKuh*











i thought this thread was limited to completed system pictures.

Its been a cache of watercooling parts, and if thats the case, i can show u guys some stuff which would make u go:

O M G W T F B B Q ^2

I am xtreme for Xtreme systems even..










Go ahead!


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aeru*


Go ahead!










nonononono... not unless i get an ok from a mod..

Ive gotten 1 ban already... i dont want another.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NaeKuh*


nonononono... not unless i get an ok from a mod..

Ive gotten 1 ban already... i dont want another.










Bundy posts pics of just parts all the time... I don't think it's dedicated to full systems only...


----------



## Jan Kyster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grishkathefool*


Ram pcb?


This horrible detail!

















Quote:



Originally Posted by *NaeKuh*










i thought this thread was limited to completed system pictures...


Ahem! It's on it's way... hope to join the club once complete!









Mods may of course delete posts, if rules are violated!


----------



## NaeKuh

lol...

My Attempted at Bigger = Better









It was a beast









Why did i go so crazy? Because i wanted to play with a Chiller and a lot of heat on the hot side:









Made by martin with fins. 


























My Work at a External using all prebought no modded parts:


















Tight Fit:

























The unit is complete stand alone and has its own switch:









lol i'll end it with these to start..


----------



## nzftw

go away, just go away







you embarrassing everyone who thought their builds were awesome









Those are some pretty wicked "experiments" though.


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


****, just **** you embarrassing everyone who thought their builds were awesome









Those are some pretty wicked "experiments" though.


lol when i tell people ive done every last mistake one can think in water cooling, and then more on top, im not joking.


----------



## nzftw

like having a dusty room?







I was shocked when i saw you weren't running dust filters on that huge cube you call your PC


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


like having a dusty room?







I was shocked when i saw you weren't running dust filters on that huge cube you call your PC










u kidding me? ive gone though every last dust filter one can possibly have..

LOL...

Im currently liking these:









I used to be on these:









I played with these:









I like Deci-M's if u guys are needing filter advice... 
Its magnetic, and has an adhesive for cases which are made of annodized Alu.

so filter cleaning = snap quick and painless.

You know what works the best tho...
Catch the Dust b4 your computer filters catch the dust with this:


















My ghetto dust box...


----------



## nzftw

I was told that magnets were a no-no for being near any computer components?

I think you should just wrap that thing in socks, who cares if temps go up a bit? you have enough gear to cool an elephant on heat


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*









I was told that magnets were a no-no for being near any computer components?

I think you should just wrap that thing in socks, who cares if temps go up a bit? you have enough gear to cool an elephant on heat










these things are like fridge magnets... the flexable type.
There not neodyanium super magnets.









LOL.... gogo acrylic spray everything internally?


----------



## nzftw

hahaha that would be one way to get rid of it.

but seriously lol, dont you have a vacuum


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


hahaha that would be one way to get rid of it.

but seriously lol, dont you have a vacuum










of course... a dyson... but i leave the windows and door open to allow circulation in that study.

So i cant fight the dust by conventional means... and if i close my windows + doors, i face frighten AC bills from cooling all the systems i own.


----------



## AliceInChains

Here is mine. Actually had to pull it apart due to the rx360 leaking from a faulty weld. In the process of returning it to jab-tech, whom has been great about the whole thing btw. So hopefully I will have a second update to this build with a few revisions.


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AliceInChains*


Here is mine. Actually had to pull it apart due to the rx360 leaking from a faulty weld.


ouch... lemme guess near where the barb area platform?


----------



## Farmer Boe

Looks sick! I can't wait to see what you have in mind for that crazy setup!


----------



## THC Butterz

mine in the daylight


----------



## NaeKuh

Bunny ears anyone?


----------



## nzftw

hmmm, something is missing from that build....it starts with an R and ends with an M?

EDIT: oh and of course the GPU?


----------



## AliceInChains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaeKuh;13912639*
> ouch... lemme guess near where the barb area platform?


Oposite side of the barb platform. here is the pic.


----------



## sanitarium

Still got some cleaning up to do, just got her together today. Wires need to be routed better, some sleeved, new hole in the top drilled, etc.


----------



## Bradford1040

ok it has been three days, and after the new rad is installed I still have bubbles in only one line that just wont go away as they did before the extra rad? I know it is not really hurting anything but I bought flow meters lol don't need a bubble twirling around so I can see the flow lol!

So what is the problem you think? I was wondering if it was just something stupid


----------



## Triangle

Try tapping it with a something to see if that helps. What kind of bubbles? Big or small?


----------



## Jan Kyster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaeKuh;13912212*
> ...wanted to play with a Chiller and a lot of heat on the hot side:


Hey! Complete builds only!























But it looks incredible interesting! Never seen such a... erhm... thing before!
Looking forward to follow the progress!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

just to clarify: I am perfectly fine with pics of parts and incomplete builds, the only rule there is that I will not add pics of parts or incomplete builds to the list on the first page.

those TEC's look fun


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13914759*
> Try tapping it with a something to see if that helps. What kind of bubbles? Big or small?


sorry went to sleep lol I do that from time to time lol, but it seems as if the bubbles are growing lol and they are med in size! Do you think I could just have a air leak, but not water?

EDIT they are also only in one hose not any other!


----------



## Triangle

Can we have a pic?
Maybe you could have air in a block and it is just coming out slowly into the tube?

As you suggested, an air leak at a fitting?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13916907*
> Can we have a pic?
> Maybe you could have air in a block and it is just coming out slowly into the tube?
> 
> As you suggested, an air leak at a fitting?


I just went through and twisted all the hose on the fittings in affect resealing them and bubbles went bye bye lol I guess that was the problem? I never thought such a small pump can pull water strong enough that you could get just a air leak lol wow!!! Thank you Triangle!!!

EDIT sorry one more quick question why with primo chill ice is the res getting discolored (green has a bit of yellow tint to it I just noticed but not the hoses) but the loop is all freshly done last week


----------



## Triangle

I am glad you got it fixed.


----------



## Bradford1040

I edited and hoped I got it before you read sorry had that one more question, why do you think that is my res? it is a little yellow on a new loop with primo chill ice? the hoses are all nice and green but the res is off color??? weird


----------



## Triangle

So, is the res getting colored or is the water getting discolored?


----------



## Jan Kyster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13916757*
> just to clarify: I am perfectly fine with pics of parts and incomplete builds...


Brilliant!









Temp assembly for trimming tubes and contemplating cabling...









RAM is elsewhere, drying after their circuit boards have been painted white...









Rather pleased with new backside look...


----------



## Triangle

Looks nice so far.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13917535*
> So, is the res getting colored or is the water getting discolored?


I am pretty shur its the water, but I really don't know as I said the hoses are fine in color so I guess it has to be the res then right? It is a FrozenQ t-virus


----------



## Triangle

Can you post a pic please..?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13917581*
> Can you post a pic please..?


I only have phone cam so these are the best I could get sorry hope it can help, god I feel like going out and buying a dam 500$ cam now lol

and I fix the bubbles if you can see those in the pick lol, that was the pictures I was going to send for hat prob. lol


----------



## Bastyn99

@Jan Kyster. I love how the 90° fittings make the loop look so clean. Thats how I would want my loop to look. Do they impair the flow compared to straight ones or 45°'s ?


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;13917836*
> @Jan Kyster. I love how the 90° fittings make the loop look so clean. Thats how I would want my loop to look. Do they impair the flow compared to straight ones or 45°'s ?


Sure they do.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;13917836*
> @Jan Kyster. I love how the 90° fittings make the loop look so clean. Thats how I would want my loop to look. Do they impair the flow compared to straight ones or 45°'s ?


1~2 ok.. any more will start to affect your flow
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/202/fittings.png/


----------



## xstasy

Before and after,

GPU temps dropped from 60 idle to 40 idle and 90 load to 50


----------



## Triangle

@bradford : Is the color of the primochill ice greenish yellowy? Is it just the liquid or is the res stained?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;13918316*
> 1~2 ok.. any more will start to affect your flow
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/202/fittings.png/


interesting chart. i wonder though,

in that picture it is this 90 degree

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10757/ex-tub-684/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Silver_Shining_BP-90R2LCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1303

but these are the ones i use and i wonder if they are less restrictive?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8835/ex-tub-481/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_BP-90R3CPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1303

they seem to have less harsh of a bend

i hope they are because i have 2 45 degree ones and 3 90 degree ones lol


----------



## Bastyn99

So what that chart says is, that the higher flow rate you have, the more pressure you also need when using 45/90 fittings to keep up that flow rate ? But how much does 0.6 PSI lower pressure matter ?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

hi all i would ove to join as well so here my first attempt at wtercooling


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13918363*
> @bradford : Is the color of the primochill ice greenish yellowy? Is it just the liquid or is the res stained?


sorry doing a fresh install took me a bit to get backup lol, I think it is the res? I really can't tell as the hoses look fine so it would have to be the res right?

IT is starting to look like pee lol to me anyway


----------



## BWG

I moved my pump down 1 notch so the tube was not elevated at the end of the loop and I added uv lights to make the tubing glow.

I have 2 more uv lights to go on the front, somewhere.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## BWG

Dang! That was quick!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13919717*
> Dang! That was quick!


thats how I do







(sometimes)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13919717*
> Dang! That was quick!


he is a super sneaky crouching ninja cat, just waiting to update the thread. Why do you think his thread is so popular?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13919843*
> he is a super sneaky crouching ninja cat, just waiting to update the thread. Why do you think his thread is so popular?


hey, it is only so popular, we are still only the second most viewed thread in the water cooling forum... just sayin', we should work on that. (can't be beat by the H50 club!)


----------



## Bradford1040

Triangle: it is the res but not stained yet but there is a residue on the in side problem is it is a frozenQ so it does not come apart but I will figure something out. I would like to know if there is something I can get local that I can put in the loop to stop that from happening or do I just need to order it?


----------



## BWG

It will happen because the H50 is old tech now!

I added a 2nd pic to that. Tubing looks pretty snazzy with UV on it. It was very plain before.


----------



## Triangle

@bradford : Maybe just use distilled + antimicrobial? (Killcoil or PT_nuke) But even with that I don't know how you would get the residue off...








You could break the res to get it open. lol







You could then clean it, but you would have another problem...


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


@bradford : Maybe just use distilled + antimicrobial? (Killcoil or PT_nuke) But even with that I don't know how you would get the residue off...








You could break the res to get it open. lol







You could then clean it, but you would have another problem...










or I could use my thing upstairs uh whats that called uh oh yeah brain lol, use a long q-tip and clean it lol, but is that what it is? algae? eewww how? I thought this stuff did not allow that stuff eewww gross lol slime!

I can't believe that is it if that is what it is, after only one week? my other case did not have a window I guess that could be the problem?


----------



## Triangle

Yeah, you could use your brain. I think that I can too if I can find it.


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13920721*
> Yeah, you could use your brain. I think that I can too if I can find it.


lol, i think it's fallen out of my ear


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker;13924445*
> lol, i think it's fallen out of my ear


Must be small or you have a big ear.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13924465*
> Must be small or you have a big ear.


lol, I burnt mine out when I was younger!!! I got a little guy in my head that runs out screaming (NO>>NO>>NO>> this whole wing is closed, due to pot smoking in the late 80's it won't reopen so just go away and get out) lol


----------



## Triangle

You blew out your nose?!?!


----------



## Asustweaker

Just did some more work on the rig.
original:








Rivised:








Whole case shot:








Side view:








Lots O tubing!!:


----------



## Triangle

That is a LOT of tubing..!








Coming along very nicely...


----------



## xstasy

Relooped


----------



## Riskitall84

My new build - Phone camera so the pics dont really do it justice









Need to get a replacement cathode for my res and some for the case too


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker;13924593*


2 res's?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker;13924593*
> Just did some more work on the rig.
> 
> Side view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots O tubing!!:


That watercooling system must be all gunk up, no?


----------



## Asustweaker

@b3rgy: i have 2 loops, 1 for cpu and MB mosfet block. The other for 2 460's, and chipset blocks. Each have their own 240mm rad.

@Karlitos: No, not at all. been running a water setup for 2 years now, found that if you assemble and then fill with hot distilled water and %50 white vinegar and run it for 24 hrs. Then i flush with fresh distilled. the fluid is swiftech additive with a little denatured alcohol.


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13924599*
> That is a LOT of tubing..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coming along very nicely...


Thank you sir!!


----------



## R00ST3R

Picture courtesy of Xoxide.

Happy Father's day to all you water cooling dad's out there!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

A few pics to update on my Shelby build


----------



## Triangle

Looking very nice swc..!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Aliaus

Heya people, I went water two weeks ago because of this thread, will post pics as soon as I get my hands on a decent camera. But first, some quick questions:

First, has anyone tried running a pump on a fan controller? (to control its speed obviously)
More specifically, I want to run an XSPC X2O 750 on a Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 (30 watts per channel).

Second, 4-pin molex has a 12 volt wire (yellow), 5 volt wire (red), and two grounds (black). Suppose I want to lower fan speed without using a fan controller, can I just stick the yellow wire where the red should be, or am I oversimplifying things?

I figured it be best to ask for expert opinion instead of going trial and error, I'm not rich enough to play mad scientist.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## elior77

My latest build.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;13934899*
> Heya people, I went water two weeks ago because of this thread, will post pics as soon as I get my hands on a decent camera. But first, some quick questions:
> 
> First, has anyone tried running a pump on a fan controller? (to control its speed obviously)
> More specifically, I want to run an XSPC X2O 750 on a Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 (30 watts per channel).
> 
> Second, 4-pin molex has a 12 volt wire (yellow), 5 volt wire (red), and two grounds (black). Suppose I want to lower fan speed without using a fan controller, can I just stick the yellow wire where the red should be, or am I oversimplifying things?
> 
> I figured it be best to ask for expert opinion instead of going trial and error, I'm not rich enough to play mad scientist.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


why? that is the question that comes to mind. I see everyone looking for ways of increasing pump speed and power and you want to slow it down why? please don't say noise as if you can hear it over any fan even a 200mm at 1/2 speed is louder and for secondly why slower if you are trying to get performance with better cooling is good flow and from what I know (which I am not a expert by any means) the pump you mentioned will not at all want or need to be slowed down!


----------



## Heat

I'm going to be cooling a 980x, 6990 and 6970.

Is a RX360+an RX240 sufficient for cooling?

Also, is push/pull necessary on these rads, or just push, or just pull? I'm using enermax magmas as they are low rpm.


----------



## Triangle

RX360 + RX240 will do.

Are they model UCMA12 or UCMA8..?
Pull would be fine. Push would be fine. Push/pull isn't needed, but if you have money for fans and room, do it.


----------



## elior77

I think 980x + 3gpus... will need at least 6x120

my 875k+2x470 was too much for 3x120

push pull doing a better job then the other options - for me.


----------



## Heat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triangle;13935442*
> RX360 + RX240 will do.
> 
> Are they model UCMA12 or UCMA8..?
> Pull would be fine. Push would be fine. Push/pull isn't needed, but if you have money for fans and room, do it.


I'm not sure what model they are... I'm ordering them from here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25389

Does one model have advantages over the other?


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13935337*
> why? that is the question that comes to mind. I see everyone looking for ways of increasing pump speed and power and you want to slow it down why? please don't say noise as if you can hear it over any fan even a 200mm at 1/2 speed is louder and for secondly why slower if you are trying to get performance with better cooling is good flow and from what I know (which I am not a expert by any means) the pump you mentioned will not at all want or need to be slowed down!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13737093*
> ....I am not looking to pick a fight just don't like to see people pick on others for asking a question. *What might be simple to understand for some might be hard for others, that is the reason for forums in the first place, it is a place to ask your peers questions no matter how small*....


While I appreciate your response, you have answered neither of my questions. "Why" may be the question that comes to mind, but that is beside the point, isn't it? _MAYBE_ I want to test the temps between different speeds. I simply want to know if it can be done safely with my combination of pump and controller because there are thing like amps and wattage to consider which I am not an expert on, hence why I am here for advice. What I want to do may seem counterproductive to you, but again, "can it be done", is what I want to know, "for what reason" is another question entirely, a question I did not ask.

my original post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;13934899*
> First, has anyone tried running a pump on a fan controller? (to control its speed obviously)
> More specifically, I want to run an XSPC X2O 750 on a Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 (30 watts per channel).
> 
> Second, 4-pin molex has a 12 volt wire (yellow), 5 volt wire (red), and two grounds (black). Suppose I want to lower fan speed without using a fan controller, can I just stick the yellow wire where the red should be, or am I oversimplifying things?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;13936025*
> While I appreciate your response, you have answered neither of my questions. "Why" may be the question that comes to mind, but that is beside the point, isn't it? _MAYBE_ I want to test the temps between different speeds. I simply want to know if it can be done safely with my combination of pump and controller because there are thing like amps and wattage to consider which I am not an expert on, hence why I am here for advice. What I want to do may seem counterproductive to you, but again, "can it be done", is what I want to know, "for what reason" is another question entirely, a question I did not ask.
> 
> my original post:


Check on your pump what its current is [amperage]

Mine is 1,8A at 12V
12Vx1,8A=21,6Watt
Should work on your fan-controller

I had it on a Scythe fan controller but that didnt work, channel blew up after a few days. that fan cntrol is only rated 15W a channel though.

Anything under 2,5A should work.
I would go with pumps up to 2A on that fan controller


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Farih

got some new parts so i have redone the loop to.

here the result.


----------



## bundymania

A new Rad on the Block


----------



## Kerian

It's going to be chillllyyyyy








Nice buy btw


----------



## Triangle




----------



## Farih

Wow, is there any case that would fit such a rad ?


----------



## Alex132

Mountain Mod cases would be the most obvious


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih;13937215*
> Wow, is there any case that would fit such a rad ?


I just had a good laugh there, was thinking and that would fit my pedestal I'm building perfectly...


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih;13937215*
> Wow, is there any case that would fit such a rad ?


You could probably mod it into the side of any metal case.


----------



## Alex132

Teal is not the nicest color, clear plexi or black would be better looking


----------



## Farih

well would love to see it fitted inside a case


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker;13928650*
> @b3rgy: i have 2 loops, 1 for cpu and MB mosfet block. The other for 2 460's, and chipset blocks. Each have their own 240mm rad.
> 
> @Karlitos: No, not at all. been running a water setup for 2 years now, found that if you assemble and then fill with hot distilled water and %50 white vinegar and run it for 24 hrs. Then i flush with fresh distilled. the fluid is swiftech additive with a little denatured alcohol.


Oh, ok


----------



## NaeKuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13937261*
> Teal is not the nicest color, clear plexi or black would be better looking


im fairly sure thats a removable film to preserve the other side from scratching.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farih*


Check on your pump what its current is [amperage]

Mine is 1,8A at 12V
12Vx1,8A=21,6Watt
Should work on your fan-controller

I had it on a Scythe fan controller but that didnt work, channel blew up after a few days. that fan cntrol is only rated 15W a channel though.

Anything under 2,5A should work.
I would go with pumps up to 2A on that fan controller


I can't seem to find any info on the power usage of my XSPC X2O DC 750, but it pushes 750 lph. The Swifttech MCP655 pushes 1200 lph running 2 amps at 24 watts. So can I assume that the XSPC 750 is well within the specs and that I should not worry about anything blowing up?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aliaus*


I can't seem to find any info on the power usage of my XSPC X2O DC 750, but it pushes 750 lph. The Swifttech MCP655 pushes 1200 lph running 2 amps at 24 watts. So can I assume that the XSPC 750 is well within the specs and that I should not worry about anything blowing up?


the XSPC X2O 750 uses about 10W according to this review.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

GPU's configured from serial to parallel, probably slightly better load temps for the top card, 6990 temps stayed about the same. Also re-routed the tubing, now goes - res/pump/240 rad/quad rad/cpu/mosfet/gpus/nf200/ram/res.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13945280*
> updated


I'm sure you live in this thread kevin


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13944913*
> GPU's configured from serial to parallel, probably slightly better load temps for the top card, 6990 temps stayed about the same. Also re-routed the tubing, now goes - res/pump/240 rad/quad rad/cpu/mosfet/gpus/nf200/ram/res.
> *pics*


Looks great, how's the flow though? I thought parallel cards needed the inlet and outlet on separate cards- I had major overheating issues with that once (or that was deemed to be the cause).

Otherwise it looks awesome, how's your EK Ni holding up?


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;13945368*
> Looks great, how's the flow though? I thought parallel cards needed the inlet and outlet on separate cards- I had major overheating issues with that once (or that was deemed to be the cause).
> 
> Otherwise it looks awesome, how's your EK Ni holding up?


Thanks salt, the flow is better than series surprisingly, even with the ram block. I can see there is noticeably much more turbulence in the res than before. I dont have a flow meter yet to give you an accurate flow measurement but my CPU temps have dropped 4c at idle and maybe a tad more at load.

I tried configuring parallel with the inlet in the bottom card and outlet at the top card, my temps were terrible as there was no flow going through the cards, water just went with the least restrictive route. which was straight up.

This configuration with inlet/outlet on same card is the best way to set up parallel.

And the nickle, I haven't opened them up yet, I am dreading it though...


----------



## dhruvdas2000

Hey guys...I just got done with my upgraded dual loop beauty...here are some pics..

Case: Corsair 800D
CPU: i7 920 4.2 GHz
GPU: 3 EVGA GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2 in TRI-SLI
Mobo:EVGA 3 way classified E760
Boot Drive: OCZ Revo Drive X2 160 GB
Data Drive: WD cavier blak 1TB
Radiator: Swiftech MCR 420 + XSPC GTX 240
Pumps: 2x MCP 655
Fittings: All Bitspower Matt Black 1/2 inch ID 3/4 inch OD
Tubingrimochill White and black 12/ inch ID, 3/4 inch OD
Fan Controller : Lamptron FC8..

Sorry for the crappy pics..its with my stupid digital camera.


----------



## Badgeroo

First watercooling build I've done thought id share


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badgeroo;13948802*
> First watercooling build I've done thought id share


nicely done!


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dhruvdas2000;13946922*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys...I just got done with my upgraded dual loop beauty...here are some pics..
> 
> Case: Corsair 800D
> CPU: i7 920 4.2 GHz
> GPU: 3 EVGA GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2 in TRI-SLI
> Mobo:EVGA 3 way classified E760
> Boot Drive: OCZ Revo Drive X2 160 GB
> Data Drive: WD cavier blak 1TB
> Radiator: Swiftech MCR 420 + XSPC GTX 240
> Pumps: 2x MCP 655
> Fittings: All Bitspower Matt Black 1/2 inch ID 3/4 inch OD
> Tubingrimochill White and black 12/ inch ID, 3/4 inch OD
> Fan Controller : Lamptron FC8..
> 
> Sorry for the crappy pics..its with my stupid digital camera.


this is one of the expensive watercooling set up. nice!


----------



## asuperpower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;7303913*
> that thing gets crazier every time i see it +1


The system that makes all H50's crap their pants.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dhruvdas2000;13946922*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys...I just got done with my upgraded dual loop beauty...here are some pics..


nice setup, but why are your fittings so torn up? should be more careful with the finish, you have to have over $400 worth of fittings there.


----------



## RushMore1205

thats a great looking set up man, for some reason i never thought you can get the tubing so straight, since it comes pre bent already you know

i love the look of yours, looks so industrial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dhruvdas2000;13946922*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys...I just got done with my upgraded dual loop beauty...here are some pics..
> 
> Case: Corsair 800D
> CPU: i7 920 4.2 GHz
> GPU: 3 EVGA GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2 in TRI-SLI
> Mobo:EVGA 3 way classified E760
> Boot Drive: OCZ Revo Drive X2 160 GB
> Data Drive: WD cavier blak 1TB
> Radiator: Swiftech MCR 420 + XSPC GTX 240
> Pumps: 2x MCP 655
> Fittings: All Bitspower Matt Black 1/2 inch ID 3/4 inch OD
> Tubingrimochill White and black 12/ inch ID, 3/4 inch OD
> Fan Controller : Lamptron FC8..
> 
> Sorry for the crappy pics..its with my stupid digital camera.


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;13945620*
> Thanks salt, the flow is better than series surprisingly, even with the ram block. I can see there is noticeably much more turbulence in the res than before. I dont have a flow meter yet to give you an accurate flow measurement but my CPU temps have dropped 4c at idle and maybe a tad more at load.
> 
> *I tried configuring parallel with the inlet in the bottom card and outlet at the top card, my temps were terrible as there was no flow going through the cards, water just went with the least restrictive route. which was straight up.*
> 
> This configuration with inlet/outlet on same card is the best way to set up parallel.
> 
> And the nickle, I haven't opened them up yet, I am dreading it though...


I think you made a mistake with the inlet/outlet on this bit. you're not suppose to put them directly opposite of each other or the water will go straight up like you said.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

hey guy i just though i shear my wood water-cooling rig with u all


----------



## dhruvdas2000

Thanks rheicel!!


----------



## dhruvdas2000

Thanks RushMore1205!


----------



## dhruvdas2000

kevingreenbmx

yeah you are right bro...should have been a bit more careful...few of those i made them so tight, i had to use pliers to get them opened..so some scratches from that.


----------



## slowdown

EK res 250


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Boiller

My newly upgraded to WC rig, still gonna add a Swiftech 240 to the top in a couple of weeks:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## DevilGear44

Decided to try internal water on my FT03. My HR-02 is really holding me back on a 4GHz overclock, but the silence is really nice.

Pulled the trigger on:

Black Ice GTX 120
2x Delta PWM fans (25mm thick, 150CFM)
Akasa PWM smart cable (so I can control the Deltas)
$100 worth of rotary/compression fittings (like 8 fittings...ouch my wallet)
Black Primochill tubing and fillport
New mounting bracket and hardware for my EK HF Gold
And various odds and ends (grills, screws, fan silencer, etc)

I'll be reusing my HF Gold, EK 150 res, and D5. Fitting everything inside the FT03 is going to be tricky but I'm confident it can be done. I was considering getting the Black Ice 160mm radiator for the bottom but decided against it. Maybe I'll put a universal block on my next GPU and then I'll get the 160...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;13958231*
> 2x Delta PWM fans (25mm thick, 150CFM)


oh man, my ears hurt already...


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


oh man, my ears hurt already...


Yeah... That's why I bought this:










I also bought a G1/4 threaded temp sensor, for my res which I can connect directly to my motherboard, then I'll set up a fan profile in the BIOS based on the water temperature. I'll reserve 100% fan speed for extremely high temperatures, just in case.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*


Yeah... That's why I bought this:

I also bought a G1/4 threaded temp sensor, for my res which I can connect directly to my motherboard, then I'll set up a fan profile in the BIOS based on the water temperature. I'll reserve 100% fan speed for extremely high temperatures, just in case.


I made one of those for the single delta fan that I had, and the noise was not bearable until I had it at least below 50% and it wasn't what I would call quiet unless it was below 40% speed... those things are SOOOO loud. full speed was louder than my vacuum cleaner, and i have a rather loud (cheep) vacuum


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13962186*
> I made one of those for the single delta fan that I had, and the noise was not bearable until I had it at least below 50% and it wasn't what I would call quiet unless it was below 40% speed... those things are SOOOO loud. full speed was louder than my vacuum cleaner, and i have a rather loud (cheep) vacuum


I figured on something like that. I just really wanted the extra/emergency wiggle room. If I absolutely cannot live with the sound enough for the GTX to work properly, I'll probably just get an SR-1 or an RX120 and pair them with my Akasa Apaches. It'll definitely be quieter but don't know how much of a performance hit it would be.


----------



## forgtn

This is very appealing.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;13960336*
> Yeah... That's why I bought this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also bought a G1/4 threaded temp sensor, for my res which I can connect directly to my motherboard, then I'll set up a fan profile in the BIOS based on the water temperature. I'll reserve 100% fan speed for extremely high temperatures, just in case.


What kind of settings does your board have for OPT Temp and Fan headers, my Rampage Gene III has 25 C as minimum temperature for low fan speed but minimum for high fan speed is 60 C. That makes water temperature controlled fan profile from bios pretty useless since fans would only ramp up to full speed when water temperature reaches 60 C.


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;13965474*
> What kind of settings does your board have for OPT Temp and Fan headers, my Rampage Gene III has 25 C as minimum temperature for low fan speed but minimum for high fan speed is 60 C. That makes water temperature controlled fan profile from bios pretty useless since fans would only ramp up to full speed when water temperature reaches 60 C.


You have a point. I guess I'll keep the fans connected to the CPU header. But I don't want these Deltas going full bore all the time, I'll set the maximum temperature to 80* or something crazy like that. I doubt it will ever get that high, though. (I hope)


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;13966153*
> You have a point. I guess I'll keep the fans connected to the CPU header. But I don't want these Deltas going full bore all the time, I'll set the maximum temperature to 80* or something crazy like that. I doubt it will ever get that high, though. (I hope)


You can can still do water temperature controlled speed settings by using Speedfan. With latest beta version you can even define a profile like this ( I let both water temperature and cpu temperature control speed of cpu fan header ) :


----------



## pac0tac0

new case new build, needs better lighting but its still a work in progress.















dust that built up from the last build


----------



## Aliaus

I have been looking through this thread starting at page 500 for the last couple of weeks. I keep seeing people say that loop order doesn't matter as long as the res is feeding the pump. The problem is, my intuition tell me that it DOES matter. If we take it to the extreme, say for example we have ten GTX 580 to cool with ten RX360. If we connect them like

Res>Pump>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>Res

then you can imagine the last GTX580 would be totally boned and the first one would get near ambient temperature water. On the other hand, everything would be fine if you connect them like

Res>Pump>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>Res

I also keep seeing people say that the water temperature throughout the loop will "equalize" which just isn't true. That would mean the water leaving a radiator has the same temperature as the water going in, defeating the purpose of a radiator.

Please correct me if I said anything wrong, I'm no expert in fluid or thermal dynamics, this is just what I thought up using common sense.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;13967118*
> I have been looking through this thread starting at page 500 for the last couple of weeks. I keep seeing people say that loop order doesn't matter as long as the res is feeding the pump. The problem is, my intuition tell me that it DOES matter. If we take it to the extreme, say for example we have ten GTX 580 to cool with ten RX360. If we connect them like
> 
> Res>Pump>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>GTX580>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>RX360>Res
> 
> then you can imagine the last GTX580 would be totally boned and the first one would get near ambient temperature water. On the other hand, everything would be fine if you connect them like
> 
> Res>Pump>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>GTX580>RX360>Res
> 
> I also keep seeing people say that the water temperature throughout the loop will "equalize" which just isn't true. That would mean the water leaving a radiator has the same temperature as the water going in, defeating the purpose of a radiator.
> 
> Please correct me if I said anything wrong, I'm no expert in fluid or thermal dynamics, this is just what I thought up using common sense.


.... How many people in this thread have a rig with 10 GTX580s? I'm sure in that case you would be right, but it's kind of a moot point unless you have an uber folding farm setup... For the average watercooling setup it doesn't really matter much.


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13967318*
> .... How many people in this thread have a rig with 10 GTX580s? I'm sure in that case you would be right, but it's kind of a moot point unless you have an uber folding farm setup... For the average watercooling setup it doesn't really matter much.


I was making a point there, whether I said 10, 100, or 1000 doesn't really matter. And while maybe not 10 GTX 580, some people here string up 4 GTX580s, i7, NB, SB, Mosfets, and ram, all ridiculously overclocked, so yea, it does matter.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;13967533*
> I was making a point there, whether I said 10, 100, or 1000 doesn't really matter. And while maybe not 10 GTX 580, some people here string up 4 GTX580s, i7, NB, SB, Mosfets, and ram, all ridiculously overclocked, so yea, it does matter.


loop order does not matter other than makin sure the res is before the pump


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;13967716*
> loop order does not matter other than makin sure the res is before the pump


That is prolly the main concern with loop order, is the res HAS to be before pump.
After all this hog wash being said about loop order, no one in there right mind will just "string" together some overclocked stuff without thinking what kind of Radiators and fans to be combined. Yes in you portrayed loop of 10 580's loop would matter however if you planned out your attack on those, you would still have the "equilibrium" effect as the temps settle.
I understand your post completely and no ordinary water cooler is professional in thermal dynamics but, with what you're saying with that much hardware it will be very difficult.
again like someone said above.. it's all moot.


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;13966394*
> You can can still do water temperature controlled speed settings by using Speedfan. With latest beta version you can even define a profile like this ( I let both water temperature and cpu temperature control speed of cpu fan header ) :


Very nice! I'll definitely try to do that. Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

when peopel refer to the temperature in a loop "equalizing", typically they mean it reaches a steady state where the temps at any point in the loop do not change with time. the temps will be slightly different at different points in the loop.

and yes, loop order does matter more in larger loops, but in simple 1-2 block, single rad loops it isn't very important.


----------



## rjajmr0221

can i join










Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## ElementR

Corsair 600T SE w/ RS240 & Phobya Xtreme 200mm


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## BWG

ElementR.... So, this is how you passed me!

I turned everything off for about 2 days and you are no longer a threat, I am in your rear view!


----------



## superhead91

I know a second pump is good for backup, but how important do you guys think it is? I'm planning on getting this reservoir which holds 2xDDC laing pumps. I currently have one MCP350. I can get another for $35. Would it be worth it to buy the second pump?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pac0tac0;13967064*
> new case new build, needs better lighting but its still a work in progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dust that built up from the last build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> I like it. Just one comment though, you couldn't have spend the extra $5 or whatever to use worm drives as opposed to zip-ties?


----------



## BWG

Hey now, look at the ones on the cpu block haha


----------



## gotcha_90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;13967533*
> I was making a point there, whether I said 10, 100, or 1000 doesn't really matter. And while maybe not 10 GTX 580, some people here string up 4 GTX580s, i7, NB, SB, Mosfets, and ram, all ridiculously overclocked, so yea, it does matter.


Generally thermodynamics is about maximizing efficiency of the entire system. There is also the concept that at equilibrium the energy input into the system will be equal to the energy output. Since energy input is the same (at constant load) it is the energy output that increases. Heat exchangers are more efficient with larger temperature deltas thus the energy output increases with increasing temperature until equilibrium is obtained.

I would argue that there is a huge inefficiency by adding a radiator between each video card, as the temperature delta across each radiator will be very low. This would mean that it would take longer for that system to reach equilibrium (the water temperature would raise, core temperature would raise, essentially your system as a 'whole' has a higher operating temperature).

Now that being said it does matter if its 10, 100, or 1000 - because at a certain point efficiency its trumped by the local maximum temperature in the loop (at the last card). Essentially you have operating limits. I believe someone has done the math and at a reasonable flow rate the increase in temperature between cards is around 0.1 degrees. So if you have 10,000,00 cards you will be outside the operating limit on your last card. However with only 4 cards I believe that it just doesn't matter at all.


----------



## Zaucher

Yeah...that sucks







...foam bath









[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uice5xHhVlM[/ame]


----------



## Bradford1040

well I finally found the air leak in my system and it showed up quickly!!! I did not see it yesterday and today large as life (or should I say death) the FrozenQ res has a hairline crack running from the inlet up the res now to about 3 inches up the side!!!!! I thank god have a back up and will be changing out today but, as FrozenQ is not making anything I guess I will just by another brand one! Any suggestions that would look as good was thinking since it is broken already just bu a koolance or bitspower tube res and put the helix in that unless someone has a better thought?


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13976957*
> well I finally found the air leak in my system and it showed up quickly!!! I did not see it yesterday and today large as life (or should I say death) the FrozenQ res has a hairline crack running from the inlet up the res now to about 3 inches up the side!!!!! I thank god have a back up and will be changing out today but, as FrozenQ is not making anything I guess I will just by another brand one! Any suggestions that would look as good was thinking since it is broken already just bu a koolance or bitspower tube res and put the helix in that unless someone has a better thought?


FrozenQ is not making anymore of these res's ?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;13977459*
> FrozenQ is not making anymore of these res's ?


yes they are but there shop has been closed it feels like forever! I don't know when but they are expected to reopen and start up building them again!


----------



## BWG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13976952*
> Yeah...that sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...foam bath


It should stop after a few days, but what are you putting in there?


----------



## mrinnocent

My rig....first watercooling attempt....cpu and 2 powercolor 6950's which means they're 6870 heatkiller waterblocks. RS360 kit does a good job keeping things cool...although I did add 3 more zalman F3 fans for push/pull


----------



## MrJackson

Are those drywall screws in pic #3?


----------



## mrinnocent

ummm..yes it's all I had...I checked to make sure they wouldn't puncture first


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinnocent;13977958*
> ummm..yes it's all I had...I checked to make sure they wouldn't puncture first


it is amassing the scrutiny over our rig's, we post a picture looking at it thinking wow I did a great job, and someone will find even the smallest flaw in your picture lol!, or find a old mouse or something to pick on lol I was just talking about this in another thread, about this thread. I almost never wanted to post in here because of that lol


----------



## MrJackson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13978036*
> it is amassing the scrutiny over our rig's, we post a picture looking at it thinking wow I did a great job, and someone will find even the smallest flaw in your picture lol!, or find a old mouse or something to pick on lol I was just talking about this in another thread, about this thread. I almost never wanted to post in here because of that lol


I just wanted to make sure I wasn't seeing things, got new glasses recently lol.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrJackson;13978055*
> I just wanted to make sure I wasn't seeing things, got new glasses recently lol.


oh I wasn't saying anything you said was bad, it really is a very hard thread to post in with rig's like Bundy's and all the super nice rig's wish I remembered everyone name to give the credit out, the rig's in this thread should almost be on that million dollar pc web site


----------



## mrinnocent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13978036*
> it is amassing the scrutiny over our rig's, we post a picture looking at it thinking wow I did a great job, and someone will find even the smallest flaw in your picture lol!, or find a old mouse or something to pick on lol I was just talking about this in another thread, about this thread. I almost never wanted to post in here because of that lol


lol....well short of the drywall screws I'm pretty proud of it....I knew someone would spot em:thumb:


----------



## k33stone

i love my reference 6970's now that i can't hear them


----------



## mrinnocent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k33stone;13978249*
> i love my reference 6970's now that i can't hear them


Isin't it great and they probably run nice and chilly too


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;13977459*
> FrozenQ is not making anymore of these res's ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13977711*
> yes they are but there shop has been closed it feels like forever! I don't know when but they are expected to reopen and start up building them again!


he will still handle RMA's now. send him a Private Message here on OCN, his username is Frozen-Q and his name is Alex. he is a pretty nice guy and is good about fixing his mistakes. (those mistakes seem to be happening far too often recently though, which is why he has put orders on hold)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;13977820*
> It should stop after a few days, but what are you putting in there?


it will not stop after a few days with that system. the flow rate is too high.

he needs a larger res (like fishtank size and the inlet and outlet need to be on the bottom at opposite ends) and to prime the loop using a single pump.


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrinnocent*


My rig....first watercooling attempt....cpu and 2 powercolor 6950's which means they're 6870 heatkiller waterblocks. RS360 kit does a good job keeping things cool...although I did add 3 more zalman F3 fans for push/pull










Nice build, good to see someone push the 1100T past 4.5ghz for everyday use.


----------



## mrinnocent

Quote:



Originally Posted by *12Cores*


Nice build, good to see someone push the 1100T past 4.5ghz for everyday use.


4.4 is where I run it most of the time....4.1 all the rest of the time.....the computers on 24/7 above 4.4 it gets reaal power hungry and losses stability...could probably get 4.8 on a suicide run


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13979935*
> 
> he will still handle RMA's now. send him a Private Message here on OCN, his username is Frozen-Q and his name is Alex. he is a pretty nice guy and is good about fixing his mistakes. (those mistakes seem to be happening far too often recently though, which is why he has put orders on hold)


Thank you I sent him a PM I don't know what he can do for it as it has a big crack in it now lol. But thanks for the info


----------



## k33stone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrinnocent*


Isin't it great and they probably run nice and chilly too










well i went from 80-85 plus to a high of 43 so far. money well spent?


----------



## mrinnocent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k33stone;13980463*
> well i went from 80-85 plus to a high of 43 so far. money well spent?


LOL...yep
Are you running a RS360 kit too?


----------



## wermad

good gosh, the reference amd cooler is annoying as hell (like all reference coolers tbh). I have put up w/ two cards as I need to get my third and then back on the HK blocks w/ the smexy bridge


----------



## Zaucher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;13979935*
> it will not stop after a few days with that system. the flow rate is too high.
> 
> he needs a larger res (like fishtank size and the inlet and outlet need to be on the bottom at opposite ends) and to prime the loop using a single pump.


Thats right. I thinks two 400mm Reservoir parallel is enough to stop the foam.

@BWG:Thats distilled Water with G48 green


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

so where are the rest of the rads? I'm pretty sure those rads will only dissipate the pump heat.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm, had I known I could have joined with my H50, I would have done so. Can I join if I show proof I owned it and ran it? Have pics.









I'm part way toward my Custom Loop.

Starting off with the Classified EK Supreme HF Block and 6 EK Black Nickel .5"/.75" Compression fittings. I've sold my 360 console so I'll be taking those funds and buying my Koolance 360 20fvi Radiator and 4 more fittings as well. That just leaves me Tubing ,Pump and Reservoir to complete a loop.

But I'm also going to be picking up a Liquid Extacy full cover block for the 5770 as well as their MoBo block for my CIVF. I'm going to be updating soone as I have more pics. For now I just have these ones.



















I sold my H50 this past month to speed up the process of getting into my Loop. Hope you don't hold that against me.









~Ceadder


----------



## trippinonprozac

Here are some updated pictures of the rig I build recently.

Still got a fair way to go as I will be adding a second 6990 and water block, along with a 480 rad and sleeving everything.


----------



## Zaucher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


so where are the rest of the rads? I'm pretty sure those rads will only dissipate the pump heat.


2x 360er and 1x 120er..that`s all and enough


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Sweet! Thank you KBMX bro you da man.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Sweet! Thank you KBMX bro you da man.









~Ceadder










Man, where have you been? closed loops can join buddy


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaucher*





someone help me out please... whats the point of all those pumps?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Man, where have you been? closed loops can join buddy










Yeah I didn't even want to look in this thread cause I didn't want to







cause I didn't have my Custom Loop. Still don't have it yet but I'm headed that direction. Maybe someone will take pity on me and help me get there and fill their 360 library out or get something else from me. $old the 360 today. Ship tomorrow.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *KShirza1*


someone help me out please... whats the point of all those pumps?


ME-Peen!









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Sweet! Thank you KBMX bro you da man.









~Ceadder










no problem man, it's what I do. but if you want to show thanks I am sure you know where the button for that is ;-)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KShirza1*


someone help me out please... whats the point of all those pumps?


it is an experiment to try to get a loop to run stable at over 1000 L/Hr


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


no problem man, it's what I do. but if you want to show thanks I am sure you know where the button for that is ;-)


When did the Mods install Cake button?









Me want. Me like Cake.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaucher;13981490*
> 2x 360er and 1x 120er..that`s all and enough


not for 400+ watts of pump heat dump and a cpu + anything else. Temps are gonna be awful.


----------



## TheRealHeavyG

Got some backplates for my GTX 570s. Yes, they are the 580 back plates, but they still look smooth.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice. Wish I could find some for a 5770. 5870 plates are too long.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13984695*
> Nice. Wish I could find some for a 5770. 5870 plates are too long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


What happened to the 5870 2gb Matrix you were planning? 6990 in store or something to the like


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13984806*
> What happened to the 5870 2gb Matrix you were planning? 6990 in store or something to the like


I ran out of funds once I had the system was built and the guy offering the Matrix for the Netbook flaked. Understandable but still I was going to take that card and trade it to my bro for a little cash and his 5770 to xFire. lol

But then I wouldn't have sold the Netbook for cash in my PayPal and wouldn't yet have my CPU block. Looks like I may have a 120 Rad, Res/Pump and minor GPU block on the way soon. Probably run the Res/Pump and Rad so I can get off this stupid loud stock cooler. GPU block is just the chipset not the RAM. So I'll have to get RAMsinks or an additional cooler to mount to the GPU before I can run that. But it's a reasonable temporary solution to get my temps down.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

You sold the H50 yet?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13985232*
> You sold the H50 yet?


Sold that around the beginning of the Month. Put it up and a half hour later it was gone gone gone.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRealHeavyG;13984623*
> Got some backplates for my GTX 570s. Yes, they are the 580 back plates, but they still look smooth.


nice, i have the same waterblock/back plate from EK on my gtx 570, and soon these will be on my gtx580 amp.. looking nice and the temps are nust..


----------



## CjGemini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRealHeavyG;13984623*
> Got some backplates for my GTX 570s. Yes, they are the 580 back plates, but they still look smooth.


Looks good man, which EK SLi Bridge is, I want to put the same thing on my GTX's?


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey guys I'm needing some help here. I just got my HF Supreme block(no it's not the Classified







) and am needing some help Appraising a few of the things I will not be using from it.

The reason I am considering selling these Brand New Parts off is so I can get the Black Nickel Mounting kit. Also the shiny bits aren't what I want in my build. So if you can head over and take a look and leave some feedback it would be much appreciated.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRealHeavyG;13984623*


is that a spakle single slot 460 in the background


----------



## palombo

here is my first watercooling not a very good job! i cutted the tube too long and it doesn't look neat, i need too replace the tube and cut it properly this times but at the moment i am too lazy to drain everyting lol
View attachment 216983


View attachment 216984


View attachment 216985


View attachment 216986


----------



## palombo

i think i might go for 1/2 tube, 3/8 looks too thin


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *palombo;14002965*
> i think i might go for 1/2 tube, 3/8 looks too thin


Yeah but maybe change the top og your pump I had that top once and changed it to acetal casue the acrylic one started to leak. : /


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;14002212*
> is that a spakle single slot 460 in the background


Nope, it's a Lilliputian Condo with a large Purple Pool.







lulz

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *palombo;14002965*
> i think i might go for 1/2 tube, 3/8 looks too thin


Go for 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs. Really tight fit.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Upgrades : Laing DDC-1T plus 18w
Ek DDC X-TOP ACETAL REV2
WATERCOOL Silenstar DDC Probox
Magicool 240
Swiftech Micro-Res v2
Phobya 240 grill moded
Bitspower 1/2-3/4 cp fittings
2 Enermax Apolish grey


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Case: XSPC H1


----------



## pac0tac0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I like it. Just one comment though, you couldn't have spend the extra $5 or whatever to use worm drives as opposed to zip-ties?


its only temporary i still gotta cut out a window fix the back so the back pieces will fit remount the HD rack make a divider to hide the pump and hd rack.

but in seriousness i live off zip ties hahah


----------



## kevingreenbmx

zip ties look better than worm drive clamps particularly if you position them well and trim down the excess with fingernail clippers.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14015735*
> zip ties look better than worm drive clamps particularly if you position them well and trim down the excess with fingernail clippers.


No doubt!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14015735*
> zip ties look better than worm drive clamps particularly if you position them well and trim down the excess with fingernail clippers.


Compressions are nicer.









I was going to get Allen Clamps but once I saw how much they cost and how much even EK Barbs cost, I said F it and got Compression fittings. They look so much cleaner too.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14016386*
> Compressions are nicer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to get Allen Clamps but once I saw how much they cost and how much even EK Barbs cost, I said F it and got Compression fittings. They look so much cleaner too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


well I personally have bitspower black compressions, soooo.... you are telling someone who already knows


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14016741*
> well I personally have bitspower black compressions, soooo.... you are telling someone who already knows


I was condsidering BP comps but they're just too expensive for me. I've spent $25 just on the CPU block fittings. If I bought BP rotaries I think it would have cost $35 before shipping. Of course I got my 45s' from Newegg with no shipping so that made a difference. The Egg doesn't normally have alot of Watercooling kitsch.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## 3dfxvoodoo

once I get the $ and time, I will be getting some cable sleeving,zip ties and clean up my pc


----------



## pac0tac0

i like compression's infact i dont think anyone wouldent like them, but the price just makes them not worth it. Im just gonna get those clip clamps or something like that for now. depends on how much it would cost to get all my fittings if its under 50 then im down.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14011645*
> Case: XSPC H1


Dayum, white on white on white.......er, on black looks killaaa


----------



## 161029

Yeah. Almost perfect. Some of the cables are messy. All of us know this is a rebranded Mountain Mods U2-UFO which has merely any cable management so I don't blame him.


----------



## RushMore1205

Compression ftw, baby, my build would not look as good with out then,
Plus, when you are breaking down the loop they are much easier to take tubing off


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pac0tac0;14016890*
> i like compression's infact i dont think anyone wouldent like them, but the price just makes them not worth it. Im just gonna get those clip clamps or something like that for now. depends on how much it would cost to get all my fittings if its under 50 then im down.


Before shipping, 8($6) half Inch EK Black Nickel Comps are $48 @ Performance-PCs'. I'm getting 10 total since I'm going to be cooling my NB.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ht_addict

Here be mine. Flow of water is:

Res/Rad/CPU/Rad/GPU1/GPU2/Res


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14017125*
> Before shipping, 8($6) half Inch EK Black Nickel Comps are $48 @ Performance-PCs'. I'm getting 10 total since I'm going to be cooling my NB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


That's why I'm planning on getting this res and putting my MCP350 in it. That means 2 less compression fittings I have to get, as I have pretty much the exact same wc setup as you, with the mobo block and all. I should get away with only 8 fittings though. Unfortunately I had to get some G3/8 to G1/4 adapters for my rad, since I got the Thermochill PA120.3. I know I could've gotten G3/8 compression fittings, but I figured it would be easier to sell G1/4 fittings if I ever wanted to.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shoot, my Pump and Res will cost that much w/o the fittings.









I'm going to be running XSPC Dual Bay Res/Pump combo, but that's a temporary setup until I have the funds to get the MultiOption 250 Advanced. I've got 6 of the fittings so they'll take care of the temporary loop until I'm ready to put the Board underwater.









I'm not running Water right now. I will be and I've got the rest coming(Pump/Res and MCR 120) for only the cost of shipping. Everything but the CPU and fittings is temporary though. Just waiting on things to sell so I can afford to get the permanent Loop together. Just clearing this up so I don't unintentionally misrepresent myself.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;14017129*
> Here be mine. Flow of water is:
> 
> Res/Rad/CPU/Rad/GPU1/GPU2/Res


Is that just my eye's not working or is your bottom card got a bow to it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;14019034*
> Is that just my eye's not working or is your bottom card got a bow to it?


Nope, I see it too. So it's not your eyes. Definite negative slope to the card.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## palombo

any sugesstion? i think i m going to buy some orange uv 1/2 tube
with some compression fiting and rebuild everything because 3/8 is ******* ugly in my opinion and i did a quick and dirty job tube are loose lol. i m also gonna buy a waterblock for my msi 570 twin forzr any sugesttion on wich one to buy? is my thermochill ta 120.3and my ekay bay spin reservoir enough to cool everything?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *palombo;14002745*
> here is my first watercooling not a very good job! i cutted the tube too long and it doesn't look neat, i need too replace the tube and cut it properly this times but at the moment i am too lazy to drain everyting lol
> View attachment 216983
> 
> 
> View attachment 216984
> 
> 
> View attachment 216985
> 
> 
> View attachment 216986


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *palombo;14019469*
> any sugesstion? i think i m going to buy some orange uv 1/2 tube
> with some compression fiting and rebuild everything because 3/8 is ******* ugly in my opinion and i did a quick and dirty job tube are loose lol. i m also gonna buy a waterblock for my msi 570 twin forzr any sugesttion on wich one to buy? is my thermochill ta 120.3and my ekay bay spin reservoir enough to cool everything?


Liquid Extasy Narrow Line Geforce 580 GTX from AquaTuning. $104 including shipping.



Looks wicked sharp.









Not sure about Tax. I dropped it in the Cart to see if there was any and it came back $0. Probably cause it was over $75.

Page is mostly German. Use Google Translator for product specs.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;14019034*
> Is that just my eye's not working or is your bottom card got a bow to it?[/QUOTE
> 
> Your eyes are not deceiving you.


----------



## bundymania

@CH4PZ: Thx !








@HybridCore: Yeah i know, itÂ´s not finished yet - i will install some leds, sort the cables and will sleeve the Power/Reset wire aswell









Bling Bling


----------



## Ceadderman

goddam that's a lot of Copper.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14020544*
> @CH4PZ: Thx !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @HybridCore: Yeah i know, it´s not finished yet - i will install some leds, sort the cables and will sleeve the Power/Reset wire aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bling Bling


those are copper plated brass right?

and any chance we can get some better shots of each individual fitting there? some of those look pretty neat and unique.


----------



## BWG

Yeah, those look sweet! I have two more 460's coming tomorrow and need 2 full blocks. I have tried to find some on the marketplace for the last month. I cannot afford to get them new, now anyway. Now I only have the CPU in my loop lol.


----------



## tragd

it feels to me like you are just rearranging your fittings and taking new photos of them.
but i'm sure they're totally different from before and just look the same.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14019766*
> Liquid Extasy Narrow Line Geforce 580 GTX from AquaTuning. $104 including shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks wicked sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure about Tax. I dropped it in the Cart to see if there was any and it came back $0. Probably cause it was over $75.


tax and shipping put me off buying from aquatunning.us

I just get them from ppcs because they have the best selection.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14027635*
> tax and shipping put me off buying from aquatunning.us
> 
> I just get them from ppcs because they have the best selection.


I agree for the most part but that's $104 _with_ shipping. Any order over $75 is +$6 shipping.

Orders below $75 you're better served elsewhere. I wanted to get some Tubing from them cause it looked to be the best deal. Didn't really say how many feet were in their Qty of measure(3 btw), so I was under the impression that it was $8.65 for a typical 8 foot package like Feser and Masterkleer sell. I contacted them and then figured 3 lengths for a custom Loop + Tax&Shipping. Came out to be something like $4.09 per foot.









So DEFINITELY not for smaller orders. I'm gonna be getting my Tubing from Performance it looks like.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14029657*
> I agree for the most part but that's $104 _with_ shipping. Any order over $75 is +$6 shipping.
> 
> Orders below $75 you're better served elsewhere. I wanted to get some Tubing from them cause it looked to be the best deal. Didn't really say how many feet were in their Qty of measure(3 btw), so I was under the impression that it was $8.65 for a typical 8 foot package like Feser and Masterkleer sell. I contacted them and then figured 3 lengths for a custom Loop + Tax&Shipping. Came out to be something like $4.09 per foot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So DEFINITELY not for smaller orders. I'm gonna be getting my Tubing from Performance it looks like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I got 10 ft of 1/2" ID 3/4"OD black primochill tubing off of amazon for like $20.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14029815*
> I got 10 ft of 1/2" ID 3/4"OD black primochill tubing off of amazon for like $20.


$16.25

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-White-Tubing-2in-4in/dp/B0047EG75C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1309230360&sr=8-2]Amazon.com: PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing -1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD (10ft pack): Electronics[/URL]

edit: free shipping (albeit slow processing) if you total $25+ in your cart.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hot DAMN!























I knew I shoulda checked there.









Thanks guys! +Rep to the both of you.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Boyboyd

Tubing is so cheap. I always get too much.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Tubing is so cheap. I always get too much.


Tubing is cheap when you're working. Otherwise it might as well be $100 a foot.









~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

Tubing is one of the only parts I've bought new so far. I've managed to buy about half my loop off of OCN members.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Tubing is one of the only parts I've bought new so far. I've managed to buy about half my loop off of OCN members.


Agreed. If it weren't for OCN, I would have to sell my stuff on eBay or Craigslist. I live in a small retirement community. Most people here are too old to appreciate the things that I'm selling.









I think the biggest price I've paid for my loop is my Block. But that's cause I wanted new. Even if it is on sale.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I live in a small retirement community. Most people here are too old to appreciate the things that I'm selling.


When I saw your location said "Hell" I lol'd


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*


When I saw your location said "Hell" I lol'd










lol, I consider it apt for the area.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sgt.Heemin88

Hey, guys im knew to OCN, but im rushmore's buddy, and this is what we came up with the other day, yes i know its a lot of rads,

but gtx460 EK nickel+acetal blocks are on the way

any criticisms is welcome


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sgt.Heemin88*


Hey, guys im knew to OCN, but im rushmore's buddy, and this is what we came up with the other day, yes i know its a lot of rads,

but gtx460 EK nickel+acetal blocks are on the way

any criticisms is welcome















































Nice and clean, this makes me jizz in my pants, twice!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


Nice and clean, this makes me jizz in my pants, twice!










NOTICE HOW THE SSDs are layed out


----------



## Ceadderman

Flip that back Radiator. Any air in your system will collect at the top of that Radiator. Take some wear off your pump and invert it.









Also remove that front 120 or the 200. All that 120 is doing is creating turbulence blowing through the 200/230. Since I see the aim of your fans is to cool the HDD, remove the 200. It's completely unnecessary at the moment.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Flip that back Radiator. Any air in your system will collect at the top of that Radiator. Take some wear off your pump and invert it.









Also remove that front 120 or the 200. All that 120 is doing is creating turbulence blowing through the 200/230. Since I see the aim of your fans is to cool the HDD, remove the 200. It's completely unnecessary at the moment.









~Ceadder










lol no its not normaly there, when the pc is on its on the ssd direct air for gpu, it was just moved over while work was being done


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh okay. I just noticed that it was there and was like


















~Ceadder


----------



## AMC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sgt.Heemin88*


Hey, guys im knew to OCN, but im rushmore's buddy, and this is what we came up with the other day, yes i know its a lot of rads,


What did you use to mount the rad at the back. I was thinking of doing that as well. Is it a bracket of some sort?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMC*


What did you use to mount the rad at the back. I was thinking of doing that as well. Is it a bracket of some sort?


Just standoffs is all he's using. I tried to find them @ performance-pcs but they only had the Koolance kits and EK brackets.

If you have EK and want to make your Setup Standout you could get a couple of their Fan brackets and make those into standoffs by mounting them to the setup and then using fan screws to mount them to the case via 120 fan. Easy Peasy.









~Ceadder


----------



## AMC

well I mean it's like these white thin brackets....those are stand offs?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMC*


well I mean it's like these white thin brackets....those are stand offs?


Yup. That's all they are.









sorry it took so long getting back to you, I've been trying to source the ones you're looking at with Google and Amazon. Not much luck but that's cause there are so many hits on Google.









~Ceadder


----------



## AMC

I see. Well thanks. I guess a trip to Home depot then lol.


----------



## nzftw

Nice build but uhhh....is that 1/4" tubing


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


Nice build but uhhh....is that 1/4" tubing










More likely 3/8.









~Ceadder


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMC*


well I mean it's like these white thin brackets....those are stand offs?


look at the bottom left corner


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## RushMore1205

Yes that's that


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice. Didn't even think to look in Frozen's inventory.









~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

So before I finish my order, will 1/2" ID 3/4" OD bitspower compression fittings fit side by side on this block?


----------



## Glancey

Yes


----------



## superhead91

Thanks. I was looking for that chart.


----------



## Glancey

Here's the full link if you've lost it









http://skinneelabs.com/cpu-fitting-compatibility/


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup they fit just fine. You coulda looked in my Darkside thread.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yup they fit just fine. You coulda looked in my Darkside thread.







lol

~Ceadder










Yeah I guess I could've.. lol... I couldn't remember if your fittings were 1/2" ID 3/4" OD or not. Oh well.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Yeah I guess I could've.. lol... I couldn't remember if your fittings were 1/2" ID 3/4" OD or not. Oh well.


All good Bro. The fittings are that but the Block is in the phone booth changing into his Classified Duds.









~Ceadder


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14043391*
> look at the bottom left corner
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Ahhhh. Thanks alot. That's what it is. Now do I have to order them from the US? I was wondering if I can get them in Canada. I pieced together a cheap water cooling setup, and now I just need a mount


----------



## RushMore1205

i love 3/8id tubing i think it looks great, to me, when you have a ton of tubing going around i think the 1/2 tubing looks to bulky and covers a lot of the motherboard, and i like to show the components and such

also i think cause the thread is 1/4 so you are limited to that and the pressure of going from 1/2 to 1/4 every blocks adds up to more then the pressure going from 3/8 to 1/4.


----------



## amantonas

Added a new 120mm rad and re-arranged my loop a bit.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RushMore1205

Amatomas that looks like a huge kink in your tubing, that is very not good


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


Amatomas that looks like a huge kink in your tubing, that is very not good


where at? I don't see it


----------



## phaseshift

so my build is about 80% done, am I welcome in here? may I post? I promise they will be sexy!


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


where at? I don't see it


exterior radiator, white tube


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phaseshift*


exterior radiator, white tube


It's a deceptive picture imo. It's probably nowhere near as bad as it looks, but it's still pretty tight


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


It's a deceptive picture imo. It's probably nowhere near as bad as it looks, but it's still pretty tight


Yeah I'm in agreement, but there is a kink there. The pic makes it look worse than it really is. I'm thinking that the tubing was cut shorter than it should have been on that one.









~Ceadder


----------



## phaseshift




----------



## ttoadd.nz

Wheres the rest Phase??1?!?1!one!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phaseshift*


so my build is about 80% done, am I welcome in here? may I post? I promise they will be sexy!


you are welcome here as long as your loop is up and running ;-)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phaseshift*


exterior radiator, white tube


nah, thats def just the angle that makes it look like a kink

************************************************** ****

*THIS NEXT PART IS ABOUT ME!!!







*

so... took classy down to (finally) fix the micro leak I had in my Frozen-Q Liquid Fusion Res and as I was doing that I realised I never actually finished all the tiny details and stuff I wanted to do to call the mod "done" and never posted final pics so that I could say "updated" to myself!

so despite it having been like 8 months since the last update, look for an update in my worklog in the next few days ;-) (maybe a mini one in the next few hours) and I promise this time I will actually post my final shots of a complete mod!


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phaseshift*


http://i52.tinypic.com/e166xf.jpg


That looks really clean.

I honestly don't see myself ever using clear tubing again though. It seems to cloud after a month and only get worse with time.


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


That looks really clean.

I honestly don't see myself ever using clear tubing again though. It seems to cloud after a month and only get worse with time.


true, I'll be testing out tygon and primochill lrt pro, currently the LRT is installed. I also plan on draining the loop every 3 monthsm so hopefully I won't run into any problems.


----------



## senson

Just did mine not to long ago it was first time and tight fit but made it all work


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


so... took classy down to (finally) fix the micro leak I had in my Frozen-Q Liquid Fusion Res and as I was doing that I realised I never actually finished all the tiny details and stuff I wanted to do to call the mod "done" and never posted final pics so that I could say "updated" to myself!

*so despite it having been like 8 months since the last update, look for an update in my worklog in the next few days ;-) (maybe a mini one in the next few hours) and I promise this time I will actually post my final shots of a complete mod!*










...pics or it didn't happen









Can't wait to see more, I loved your original log! I'll be finally finishing my build this weekend after a 2 week hiatus due to some personal business...

In other news: @Phase- looks great, I love that clear/blue combo!


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey KBMX, apologies for the off topic question, but do people in Norfolk still have signs that say "Dogs and Sailors keep off the Grass"? Military Circle was my friend back in the day.









I never understood how they expect Dogs and Drunk Sailors to know what the sign says as neither can read.







Heh.

@Senson... Dang bro that's really nice looking but







that's a really tight fit on the bottom. I'm surprised you had room for the plugs in your PSU. Must suck when you have to add some hardware.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Vermillion

Finally got some recent pics of my system:




























Swiftech 355 + EK 140 Res-pumptop


----------



## DevilGear44

copypasta from sff thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;14056174*
> Finished my FT03 water build. Words cannot describe the headaches and finger-numbing pain that went into this thing. 3/4" OD tubes are not (ARE NOT!) meant to be crammed into a SFF case. Compression fitting also aren't as easy I thought they'd be. So anyways, excuse the crappy pictures, they are purely preliminary. I took them at 3 in the morning and my room is very dark with a single incandescent so the lighting sucks. But hopefully a few people can enjoy it:


----------



## Ceadderman

Ohhhhhh that just gave me a heck of an idea for mounting my MultiOption Res in front of the 140 of my 932. +Rep









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14056298*
> Ohhhhhh that just gave me a heck of an idea for mounting my MultiOption Res in front of the 140 of my 932. +Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Haha thanks; that metal bracket is actually the one that comes with the Swiftech micro res!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44;14056327*
> Haha thanks; that metal bracket is actually the one that comes with the Swiftech micro res!


Meh, L bracks are all the same. My issue was drop the 140 completely(which serves dual function in my case) or find anther place for a 250 or larger Res. I don't want it hugging my MoBo on the tray because I have sleeved Cables that I don't want to ruin the look of.

In the 932 at the back of the case there is a grill that is approximately 130x60mm. So L bracks would work really well for mounting not only my Res but my Pump on the back side to hide it and keep Darkside clutter free.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## pujo

found my camera! here's mine


----------



## bundymania

Reset/Power Cables sleeved and some BP Adapters included

To to: Cable Management and some leds to install


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift;14053266*


You should not off out the ek block side ways, the her plates dont work properly, I remember someone did a thread amd it showed a good dip in performance


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14058489*
> 
> Reset/Power Cables sleeved and some BP Adapters included
> 
> To to: Cable Management and some leds to install


god you really do have some nice stuff!!!! I almost wish you to stop posting them as every time you do I spend more money on things! lol!

P.S. joke not cyber begging
Keep up the great work and if you feel like sending a rig this way just PM me for address lol, I am sure you have one you did not want or like lol. I am a poor ugly man with what ever ailment makes you feel bad and only wish that I get one of your throw a way's lol


----------



## bundymania

hehe that´s a good "effect" and all watercooling companies are happy now when they´re reading that


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14058934*
> hehe that´s a good "effect" and all watercooling companies are happy now when they´re reading that


hey man where can u get my hands on all whiet blocks like that?


----------



## senson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14054431*
> @Senson... Dang bro that's really nice looking but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's a really tight fit on the bottom. I'm surprised you had room for the plugs in your PSU. Must suck when you have to add some hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Haha Thanks. It is tight but it works and it's not that bad to add parts since I can just tilt rx240 a little bit and have room to squeeze my finger in:cheers:


----------



## RushMore1205

Little update, shorting the length of the tubing


----------



## nzftw

Rushmore, are those 90s not killing your flow rate?


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


Rushmore, are those 90s not killing your flow rate?


The flow rate is mostly reduced by blocks, 90's ar simply peanuts compared to all those coolin elemts..


----------



## RushMore1205

Yes, not big deal, plus second pump going in also, so I'm not worried about anything


----------



## RushMore1205

I got 2x mcp350 they are very strong pumps


----------



## RushMore1205

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK SO FAR


----------



## Ceadderman

Looking good RushMore.









~Ceadder


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14065597*
> WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK SO FAR
> 
> I think you should steady the camera before taking a picture....that's what I think


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe;14067042*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14065597*
> WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK SO FAR
> 
> 
> 
> I think you should steady the camera before taking a picture....that's what I think
Click to expand...

Maybe or maybe you should buy a new AMD card and install 11.6







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Genesis.au

Quick pic of my new build atm, picking up an i7 950 and an ASUS P6X58D-E Motherboard in a few day time, getting it from my mate for a good price, so can't complain









anyway ( yes phone camera is boss )



That's an RX 480 and 360


----------



## Ceadderman

My Lifecam Cinema is better.







lol

Just got my EK "Classified" HF Supreme
4.5' of PrimoChill .5/.75" Tubing
Two EnzoTech 45deg. Rotaries
Six EK Black Nickel compression fittings.

Oh yeah swapped out the Shiny Nickel EZ mount kit with the Black Nickel kit. Probably will paint the springs, but gonna get black oxide washers for sure.









~Ceadder


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14067061*


a little bit cable management will make it almost perfect


----------



## Tex1954

Ya'll can use those pretty boxes and join the OCN BOINC team for the monthly 2 day long contest! All are welcom! Tell them "Tex1954" referred you!




























See the whole build here:

http://tex1954.imgur.com/


----------



## Ceadderman

BOINC? Apologies if I don't understand the acronym.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Tex1954

Berkeley Open Infrastructure for Network Computing!

It uses your idle CPU's to help the world! Or, if you want, it can run all the time... with certain restrictions.

It's like [email protected] and Distributed.Net and World Community Grid and others. You load the BOINC client, pick what projects you like and crunch away! You can help cure cancer or solve math problems... tons of projects...

And, OCN has a team too! See my SIG!

http://boinc.berkeley.edu/










PS: If you zoom the top monitor, that is BOINCTasks manager running tasks. Uses your idle time or runs all the time according to you wishes.


----------



## KillerMike84

AMD Red Flash Project
XSPC Rasa 450 RS240 WaterCooling Kit
MYOPENPC DOMA Pro PCI Custom Red Transparent
Acrylic Open
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Quad Core 3.7Ghz
Stable Idle 32C High 42C
Asus Crosshair IV Formula
Corsair Red/Black Airflow 2 GTL Cooling
Patriot Sector 5 Viper II 8GB DDR3 1333MHz
Kingston SSD 64GB+30GB JBOD
WD Scorpio Blue Mobile Hard Drive 500GB
Ultra X4 750-Watt Modular Power Supply
Dual Crossfire XFX Radeon HD 5830's 1GB PCIe DDR5
Dual Thermaltake 120mm Highest Performance DC Fans

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvenQCjx9zA&feature=channel_video_title[/ame]


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh okay. Already Folding though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14065597*
> WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK SO FAR


Why did you sleeved the pci express cable with that heat shrink, looks ugly to me.
I sleeved my cables with the same colors has you did but it looks much better with black heat shrink.


----------



## Ceadderman

@Haze... Both of your shrinks are too long. 15mm is all that's required to shrink a sleeve on.









I think that's why you're put off by his choice of colors.









~Ceadder


----------



## Haze_hellivo

my shrinks are less than 15mm.


----------



## nzftw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*


my shrinks are less than 15mm.


nonono, i think what you meant to say was that yours shrinks to less then 15mm...get it


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*


Why did you sleeved the pci express cable with that heat shrink, looks ugly to me. 
I sleeved my cables with the same colors has you did but it looks much better with black heat shrink.



This was my first time sleeving and its not even mdpc sleeve, I agree I dont like it either

Its going to get redone

Black white color x


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


nonono, i think what you meant to say was that yours shrinks to less then 15mm...get it










No, what I wrote is what I meant .


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


This was my first time sleeving and its not even mdpc sleeve, I agree I dont like it either

Its going to get redone

Black white color x


You could try to sleeved them without heat shrink but takes a lot of work.

Do what you think is best


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


nonono, i think what you meant to say was that yours shrinks to less then 15mm...get it










Actually I meant 15mm BEFORE shrinking. It will end up roughly 5mm +/- once heat has been applied.









But this is the Water Cooling thread. So in the spirit of that I have a couple more pics.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


a little bit cable management will make it almost perfect


I actually like the cable like that cause you can see the sleeve

Plus in an antec 1200 , and all the fans ur have that'd as god as it will get


----------



## Bouf0010

Just finished putting it together the other day.


----------



## Tomiger

nicee, looks like that mod for the FrozenQ res worked out great


----------



## KillerMike84

Can u guys please update the list


----------



## superhead91

So I ordered my last wc parts and got them today, and realized I forgot a killcoil. Would it be ok to run my loop a few days without it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


So I ordered my last wc parts and got them today, and realized I forgot a killcoil. Would it be ok to run my loop a few days without it?


I wouldn't. I'm ordering one here in a bit myself. Of course I am OCD so take it for what that's worth.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


So I ordered my last wc parts and got them today, and realized I forgot a killcoil. Would it be ok to run my loop a few days without it?


Don't see why not. I've never used one and never had a problem.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

whats a killcoil?!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*


whats a killcoil?!


a pure silver coil that prevents bacteria from growing inside your loop


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


a pure silver coil that prevents bacteria from growing inside your loop


Don't forget Algae.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Don't forget Algae.









~Ceadder










Don't forget, kills EK nickel plating too


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14076085*
> Don't forget, kills EK nickel plating too


hahaha







it's a killaa


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14076085*
> Don't forget, kills EK nickel plating too


Thats why I dont need one


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14076314*
> Thats why I dont need one


That's why I don't need ek anymore







, HK and XSPC for moi


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

You should be fine for a few days/week, I usually don't add my PTnuke to a new loop for a few days just in case I have to drain it or modify it somehow so that I can conserve the 'Nuke that I have. I've never had an issue. The key is distilled water and clean parts, plus sealing the loop so the you don't have anything to introduce bacteria.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;14054007*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...pics or it didn't happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see more, I loved your original log! I'll be finally finishing my build this weekend after a 2 week hiatus due to some personal business...
> 
> In other news: @Phase- looks great, I love that clear/blue combo!


taken les than five minutes ago:

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14054431*
> Hey KBMX, apologies for the off topic question, but do people in Norfolk still have signs that say "Dogs and Sailors keep off the Grass"? Military Circle was my friend back in the day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never understood how they expect Dogs and Drunk Sailors to know what the sign says as neither can read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heh.
> 
> @Senson... Dang bro that's really nice looking but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's a really tight fit on the bottom. I'm surprised you had room for the plugs in your PSU. Must suck when you have to add some hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


haha, I have not seen any, but I have heard about them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerMike84;14071964*
> Can u guys please update the list


I don't know what you are talking about with "u guys" it is just me







and I update this list WAY more frequently than most of the clubs, just be patient.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14076445*
> taken les than five minutes ago:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what you are talking about with "u guys" it is just me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I update this list WAY more frequently than most of the clubs, just be patient.


Pic looks chopped









As for the update comment, it's not like having your name up on the list really means that much... Does anyone check to see their name on there on a regular basis


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;14076967*
> Pic looks chopped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the update comment, it's not like having your name up on the list really means that much... Does anyone check to see their name on there on a regular basis


chopped?


----------



## Ceadderman

I do Salt.

Of course I'm OCD, so take that with a grain of... well you know.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## nzftw

well done bouf well done









That really does look awesome imho.

get that 580 under water and it would looks wicked.

ima try and enter you into the july motm


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14077047*
> chopped?


Photoshop'd/manipulated/FAKE


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;14077722*
> Photoshop'd/manipulated/FAKE


ha, it was a quick iphone snap that I uploaded straight from my phone


----------



## kiwiasian




----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;14078629*


It looks good, but i need more pics !!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

*CLASSY MACHINE HAS UPDATES INCOMING WITHIN THE NEXT WEEK!!! yes, after almost a year of no progress. (click here to check out my worklog so far)*


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;14078629*


Nice kiwi







hey what camera u using?


----------



## Byakuya27

My PC watercooling


----------



## Haze_hellivo

One of the nicest rigs I've seen in a long time!


----------



## Tex1954

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Don't forget, kills EK nickel plating too










This is the first time I have ever heard that statement. Since I use a nickel plate EK Supreme, I'm curious about it. In fact, all 3 of my systems have nickel plated CPU blocks and kill coils...

Do you have any links to some pics or something that explains how this happens with distilled water and no other additives?










UPDATE!!! I googled and found this right off the bat... seems I will have some RMA's in the future...

http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardwar...lated-waterb/1

Update2: Been reading up on the problem. Since my EK Supreme has a clear top, it's easy to keep an eye on things... so far no problems on my end. It also looks like it may only be a problem with certain setups. My coils are far from the CPU blocks... so, we will see if this is a manufacturing problem blown out of all reasonable proportion or what.

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.p...t01returnid=17


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tex1954*


*This is the first time I have ever heard that statement.* Since I use a nickel plate EK Supreme, I'm curious about it. In fact, all 3 of my systems have nickel plated CPU blocks and kill coils...

*Do you have any links to some pics or something that explains how this happens with distilled water and no other additives?*










UPDATE!!! I googled and found this right off the bat... seems I will have some RMA's in the future...

http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardwar...lated-waterb/1










Check out the threads on 'EK Nickel Issues' and you'll find lots of people with problems, and EK's responses along the way. Worth a read (they're long threads) but it's something to stay informed on, especially if you use EK nickel.


----------



## Byakuya27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14080460*
> One of the nicest rigs I've seen in a long time!


thank you


----------



## Tex1954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;14080647*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the threads on 'EK Nickel Issues' and you'll find lots of people with problems, and EK's responses along the way. Worth a read (they're long threads) but it's something to stay informed on, especially if you use EK nickel.


I did, and I updated my post with EK link. Personally I don't see any problems yet and I use kill coils and distilled water in 3 systems...

But, who knows a year from now eah? Glad this was pointed out so I can keep a better eye on things. OCN, the place to stay aware of goings on!

LOVE IT!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

It's not as big an issue as it's being made out to be. Still it's good to keep an eye on things.

The problem isn't so much the blocks it's the poor customer service from EK that has panties in a twist. I don't buy from them directly so the headache isn't mine it's PPCs'. I posted about bare spots in my Comps here so it's not news. However Hank at PPCs' took pretty good care of me. Swapped out all my fittings when he sent the replacement block for the Pick Error that had me in a block I didn't order.

They added the hose that I posted previously and swapped out the shiny nickel EZ mount set for the Black Nickel EZ mount set. Now THAT is customer service. $19 worth of freebies on top of return shipping and replacement shipping. And saved me money finishing my starter loop. Just need KC and it's done for the time being.









~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

I now understand the pain of installing compression fittings... my poor fingers...


----------



## Johnsen

Painted my GFX and took some pics.


----------



## Bouf0010

thats a beautiful rig Johnsen, i love the colors! i curious as to what you did at the bottom of the case, any pics?


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14085326*
> thats a beautiful rig Johnsen, i love the colors! i curious as to what you did at the bottom of the case, any pics?


Theres is not much going on, the psu with the cables going out behind the tray, and the two tubes going into the pump and out, the pump is mouted inside the HDD rails and was almost impossible to mount. I will however take some pics of it tomorow or so..









Till then I just updated the pic to show the painted GFX. Enjoy.


----------



## bundymania

now with some lights..


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


now with some lights..











Truely sexy looking rig.


----------



## Tex1954

I like the white in there! Those are contrasting colors and really set things off don't they? Nice rig!!! Very nice!!!

Contrast is why I like the custom DEMCiFlex white filters on the rear of this!



















Whole build is here...

http://tex1954.imgur.com/danger_den_ldr29_custom#Fzw3c


----------



## Ceadderman

Not too keen on clear hoses but that does look pretty nice.









~Ceadder


----------



## Castle02

Some amazing water cooling builds here. I'm doing alot of reading and research before I embark on mine. Seeing everyone's setup will help me decide on how I want mine to look.


----------



## Tex1954

It isn't just about looks my friend. It's also about the right fans, parts... screws... all the parts have to work together properly... I like radiators with 6-32 threads, much easier to get parts at the hardware store... but, whatever. You will find that fans below 1500 RPM are quiet, but don't cool very well, especially when blocked with grills and such.

Your method of looking around is excellent. Look around as much as you can, plan plan plan and make a list and build it on paper first to save on part expenses...

And good luck!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I'm a fan of having so much overkill in the rad department fans don't really have that great of an Impact. IMO build quality > performance > looks. I'm a metric fan. M4 rads for me. Hardware labs gtx series destroys the competition when 1500+ rpm fans are used. Mcmastercarr.com is a great place to get all of ur metric screw needs for super cheap as well.

The golden rule really applies with wc parts. "buy cheap and buy it twice"


----------



## Ceadderman

Agreed on the M4s'. But you can still buy cheap and get quality at the same time. The Rad that I'm going to upgrade from a 120 to, is $56. Koolance makes some really nice Rads that don't take up a lot of room in the top of my cabinet. ~40mm

In the fan department I plan to buy as I've always bought. Yate Loon Medium and High Speed(summer) fans without the sleeving. $4 each









Hey guys how in the sam hell do you undo stubborn Comps? I put one of my Comps on hose so I could take some pics. But now that stubborn [email protected] won't come off no matter what I do. The compression ring seems to be stuck there for the duration.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14098697*
> 
> Hey guys how in the sam hell do you undo stubborn Comps? I put one of my Comps on hose so I could take some pics. But now that stubborn [email protected] won't come off no matter what I do. The compression ring seems to be stuck there for the duration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Wrap a rubber band around both sides for traction. Works perfectly since you haven't mounted it yet.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, I'll try that. I'm hoping that I don't have to use a couple pair of ViceGrips. Cause holy hell that collar is tight.









_YESSSSS!_







+Rep









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## IKIKUINTHENUTZ

WOW I cant believe I missed this thread, Anyways here's a log link and some images

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/905287-ikikuinthenutzized-navig-bench-station.html


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IKIKUINTHENUTZ;14099769*
> WOW I cant believe I missed this thread, Anyways here's a *log link and some images*


I'm not sure how, but I totally read that as sausages









Beautiful build though


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IKIKUINTHENUTZ;14099769*
> WOW I cant believe I missed this thread, Anyways here's a log link and some images
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/905287-ikikuinthenutzized-navig-bench-station.html


That is a very clean tech station setup. I love it!


----------



## matrices

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*












If Optimus Prime were black and transformed from a PC...it would be this.


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IKIKUINTHENUTZ*


WOW I cant believe I missed this thread, Anyways here's a log link and some images

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...h-station.html











Nice CLEAN setup. I like it! Remember that old Wendy's commercial with the old lady yelling "Where's the beef?"... well... Uncle Kah here is yelling "Where the wires!?!"

Nice setup.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*












Doesn't get much better than that!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Nice CLEAN setup. I like it! Remember that old Wendy's commercial with the old lady yelling "Where's the beef?"... well... Uncle Kah here is yelling "Where the wires!?!"

Nice setup.


Haha, that was Ragu too. That old lady made a ton of money doing that for more than a handful of companies.







lol

Got my EK SLI/XFire bridge paid for. Now I just need the screws the ends and the 2nd card. $10 used is a heck of a price.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I cant wait to post some pictures of my rig....


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;14104114*
> I cant wait to post some pictures of my rig....


Looking forward to it, I like your build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

sorry my updating has been slow the last few days, was busy getting engaged and telling family


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14107611*
> sorry my updating has been slow the last few days, was busy getting engaged and telling family


wait I am confused now. Is that your hand or your GFs hand?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14107624*
> wait I am confused now. Is that your hand or your GFs hand?


bwahahaha, that is her hand! she is holding mine though, you just can't see it.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14107695*
> bwahahaha, that is her hand! she is holding mine though, you just can't see it.


i see.


----------



## Opp47

So its been a while since I've posted anything up here, but I'm starting a new project and wanted to share.

I will be updating several elements in my rig's cooling system, replacing my old HAF-932 with a new custom chassis curtsey of http://www.MountainMods.com, and a few nice esthetic additions that you'll have to wait to see in the new pics.

Mobo, GPUs, CPU, RAM, PSU, and cooling hardware for each will not be replaced until I can save some more funds.








Pics and descriptions of these parts can be found in my gallery

Here is a list of the new parts going into the rig:

- 2 New *XSPC RX360 Triple 120mm Radiators*, each equipped with a Tecnofront AirBox and 3 blue LED CoolerMaster 2000rpm fans


- A black *EK Dual Loop Reservoir* with Flow Meters 


- New UV Reactive blue *Anti-Kink Tubing* 

- A blue LED *Bitspower X-Station Power Extension* to help reduce wire clutter 

- 2 *Lamptron Inverterless Cathode Spectral Bars* (one UV and the other blue) 

- UV Reactive blue *Fan Silencers* for the 6 fans on the 2 new massive rads 

- A custom *Military Switch Baybus* with carbon fiber covers and blue LED switches to control the cathodes 


- And finally, a new pump, the *Swiftech MCP655-B 12v Water Pump* (317 GPH) 

Please stand by for lots of pics to come. I have already completed the breakdown of the old chassis and will start posting pics of that process tomorrow.


----------



## broke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14107695*
> bwahahaha, that is her hand! she is holding mine though, you just can't see it.


congrats mate


----------



## Opp47

also congrats on your engagement Kevin.


----------



## Johnsen

Congratz @ kevingreenbmx.


----------



## Bradford1040

congrats, bud, I hope you have a good time, long life, and true happiness!

There are 100 jokes about marriage that come to mind but will let you start them off in about 6 months lol


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14107624*
> wait I am confused now. Is that your hand or your GFs hand?


That hard is too feminine to run this thread


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *broke*


congrats mate











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Opp47*


also congrats on your engagement Kevin.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Johnsen*


Congratz @ kevingreenbmx.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


congrats, bud, I hope you have a good time, long life, and true happiness!


thanks guys!


----------



## not12quit

I wonder if the following "hybrid" system is feasable?

Using water based design only instead of water inline, just using air?

Use the water based CPU/Gpu cooler plates, with the radiator submeresed in a chiller, and a fan based "pump" replacing the water pump?

Has this been tried?

Novice so you can make fun of me and I won't cry, much....


----------



## Tex1954

Ummm, that air better blow at supersonic speed and chilled to ZERO absolute to do any good whatsoever! I doubt the small area of a CPU waterblock is near large enough for air cooling otherwise!!

Novel idea though!


----------



## Onions

good idea but the idea of using water is because it can hold more heat then air.... ps i live like 30 min from you


----------



## Opp47

sounds like a unique idea... id be interested to know how it goes if you end up doing the build..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *not12quit*


I wonder if the following "hybrid" system is feasable?

Using water based design only instead of water inline, just using air?

Use the water based CPU/Gpu cooler plates, with the radiator submeresed in a chiller, and a fan based "pump" replacing the water pump?

Has this been tried?

Novice so you can make fun of me and I won't cry, much....










Not such a novice idea. I had a similar idea but keeping it all water cooled. In fact, I wanted ice water! The problem is that the water you would submerge the radiator in will slowly start to increase it's temperature therefore decreasing the cooling capability of the radiator. It's one of the many laws of physics I so decided not to pay attention to when I was in high school... Also, if you used iced water, it could/would create condensation that would wind up dripping onto your mobo making all these nice looking sparks which you would definitely not want.


----------



## coolhandluke41

some new toys show up today


----------



## B3RGY

the closest I've seen to Hybrid is putting a heatsink on a GFX card that goes around the gpu itself, then a gpu block on the gpu...nothing like you suggested lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't have to submerge anything Brother Kah.









I have an idea for a slush box using a Performance Cooling Box for automotive racing. You can pick up a Moroso Cool Can for a little over $100 that has a metal Core(might be cast aluminum but shouldn't matter) with 3/8 NPT fittings. You'd have to purchase adapter fittings but you could essentially make a silent running system to get through the hotter summer Days. Fill it with ice, put the lid on it and run it to your hearts content. Cheaper than a chiller, it can be adapted to drain outside like an AC system and you can dial back the fans.

Set it up with Quick disconnects for when you aren't going to run it and build a short section with QDs' to plug in for the rest of the year. Need to drain the loop? No problem, attach a piece of hose to a QD and away you go. An on a Phenom setup no worries.









~Ceadder


----------



## not12quit

ok. I guess it was not that "cool" Idea.....

Just thought since blowing air from a common fan based cooling solution works, that this mught also work.

I thought air might have less heat gain from resistance while traveling along the tube, could utilize a larger inside diameter tubing, perhaps even a larger volume waterblock, would flow at a much higher rate with less power needed to move, and may transfer temperature faster.

Sorry for "newbie" type of queries, but I would like to best cool my new cpu and graphics cards and liquid cooling systems grabbed my imagination and it took flight.









ok. so I need help in finding good solution for 17-3600k cpu with 580 gpu cooling.

my case will be Cooler Master 690 II Advanced.

I have budgeted $350 for this and wonder if I am "in the dark" in that as well









a 580 with plate attached runs around $800Cdn, (EVGA GeForce GTX 580 FTW Hydro Copper 2) but a "normal" 580 is 600 or less. heavy price for the plate I think.

"kits" i have found in canada so far are cpu only.

also, suggestions on psu requirements are welcome.

any help is greatly appreciated. I need to decide this week as puchasing this weekend.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you don't have your case yet, you might want a HAF case or something around that price range. HAF stands for High Air Flow and Cooler Master means it. One of the best cases for cooling that you can get. Also if you're going to be doing water, the 932 and the X are pretty well thought out in that regard. That I am aware of they're one of the most used cases for Water Cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14116086*
> If you don't have your case yet, you might want a HAF case or something around that price range. HAF stands for High Air Flow and Cooler Master means it. One of the best cases for cooling that you can get. Also if you're going to be doing water, the 932 and the X are pretty well thought out in that regard. That I am aware of they're one of the most used cases for Water Cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


they are also hideous...  judging by the WC thread I would say the 800D is used more often for water cooling these days. about a year ago every other build was an HAF-X, but not so much recently.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14116478*
> they are also hideous...  judging by the WC thread I would say the 800D is used more often for water cooling these days. about a year ago every other build was an HAF-X, but not so much recently.


You ain't been to the HAF thread lately have you.







lulz

800D is also a good WC'ing Case. But since he was looking at a 690 II, I thought I would steer him in the right direction. 690s' are reasonably decent Cases but more Air Cooling than Water. Not set up very well for water imho.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

The 932 is a great budget-mid-range full case that has the option for a 360mm rad. Not many cases offer a spot for a 360mm rad. The X took the 932 concept further but this design focused a bit too much on air cooling (which is not a bad thing for air cooler's) and took a step back in water cooling. That's why I'm not a big fan of the X and would much happier recommending the 932 versions for noobs looking for a full tower w/ lots of future potential and is under $150-200. my


----------



## Alatar

Just got some toys to play with







Too bad that I have to finish building my case before I can install my loop :/ But getting stuff is always nice.


----------



## sanitarium

Wait, so kevin is getting married? My condolences.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium;14116989*
> Wait, so kevin is getting married? My condolences.


ha, why so negative?


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14116993*
> ha, why so negative?


Been there, done that. Women are all the same in my experience. Waiting to see if they get better after 30.

Marriage is putting yourself through hell, giving yourself unneeded and unwanted extra responsibilities, having more expected of you, and setting yourself up for a highly likely fall. All in the name of this thing we call "love".


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh come now it's not as bad as all that. Of course I've never been married.









Congrats and Condolences, KBMX. If you're happy then that's all that matters.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

*CHECK IT AND COMMENT YO :-D*

sneak peak of what is in that link:


----------



## ttoadd.nz

I have been married twice, interesting experiences to say the least


----------



## wermad

seven years, one 2 y/o, and counting







. Just keep it interesting and enjoy each others company in life's journey. Congrats again









So, I saw you had a leak w/ your res, makes me wonder and worry a bit


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14118106*
> seven years, one 2 y/o, and counting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just keep it interesting and enjoy each others company in life's journey. Congrats again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I saw you had a leak w/ your res, makes me wonder and worry a bit


the leak I had was around the plastic nut at the top of the cathode tube, you can easily see if you have a problem because there will be little drops of water that look like condesation inside the cathode tube and air will collect around it under the top plate of the helix.


----------



## not12quit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14118106*
> seven years, one 2 y/o, and counting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just keep it interesting and enjoy each others company in life's journey. Congrats again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I saw you had a leak w/ your res, makes me wonder and worry a bit


Learned the phrase "Yes dear" early









Actually we have both given and taken, hisss and huffed, laughed and cried, yet through it all, our equal commitment to help each other face the worlds BS, is what has made for a pretty good darn marriage, two kids, 33, 19, I know big gap, drinking party the night of inception of second









Stay focused and optimistic, and the future will never kill the partnership.


----------



## SQLinsert




----------



## nickbaldwin86

want more?
http://home.comcast.net/~nickbaldwin/site.html


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14116086*
> If you don't have your case yet, you might want a HAF case or something around that price range. HAF stands for High Air Flow and Cooler Master means it. One of the best cases for cooling that you can get. Also if you're going to be doing water, the 932 and the X are pretty well thought out in that regard. That I am aware of they're one of the most used cases for Water Cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


i have a HAF-932 i jusr gutted for my new build.. u want it Ceadderman??


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;14120485*
> i have a HAF-932 i jusr gutted for my new build.. u want it Ceadderman??


PM me with specifics.









@SQL... bro, I do believe it's time for a Full Tower. Your build would look Uber if it weren't for the Radiator on top.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14122071*
> @SQL... bro, I do believe it's time for a Full Tower. Your build would look Uber if it weren't for the Radiator on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah, I realized that a few weeks ago before finalizing the first phase of this build. Been looking at danger den and mountain mods cases. Can't find anything I really like in the current models. The Ascension series is really nice but it's just too big for my apartment. Plus I plan on running about 10 hdds in the future and people tend to sacrifice drive space for radiators. Plus, I'm not much of a gamer. hmm


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;14120388*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> want more?
> http://home.comcast.net/~nickbaldwin/site.html


hey man, I really like the style and the concept here (and the colors) but why does your paint always look splotchy? looks like you needed to do 3 more coats...

it looks awesome other than whatever is up with the finish of your paint (and the overkill grill, but that's just my preference)


----------



## nickbaldwin86

it is powder coat

Doesn't look like that in person.


----------



## loki_reborn

few updated pics from where I jumped to Intel.

Please excuse the dust, I need to get some more compressed air.




























Lemme know what ya think.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn;14123547*
> few updated pics from where I jumped to Intel.
> 
> Please excuse the dust, I need to get some more compressed air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lemme know what ya think.


Looks nice but why that 90º fitting on the bottom gpu?. It would look better with straight tubbing.


----------



## loki_reborn

Ran out of fittings, lol


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn;14123547*
> few updated pics from where I jumped to Intel.
> 
> Please excuse the dust, I need to get some more compressed air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lemme know what ya think.


I would put that nice PC in the table for sure! Looks is wasted by letting it stay under the table.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn;14123864*
> Ran out of fittings, lol


Hey wha kinda wall mounts are u using for your monitors??


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14122163*
> Yeah, I realized that a few weeks ago before finalizing the first phase of this build. Been looking at danger den and mountain mods cases. Can't find anything I really like in the current models. The Ascension series is really nice but it's just too big for my apartment. Plus I plan on running about 10 hdds in the future and people tend to sacrifice drive space for radiators. Plus, I'm not much of a gamer. hmm


Check out a Caselabs M8 or M10. There is plenty of room for both HDs and rads, without being as large as an MM Ascention.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn;14123864*
> Ran out of fittings, lol


Move that 90 over to the Inlet on your CPU(assuming your flow is downhill), move the plug on the side to the bottom of your bridge and use the fitting from the CPU on the side. Much better.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## RushMore1205

Should go like this


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14123018*
> updated
> 
> hey man, I really like the style and the concept here (and the colors) but why does your paint always look splotchy? looks like you needed to do 3 more coats...
> 
> it looks awesome other than whatever is up with the finish of your paint (and the overkill grill, but that's just my preference)


Its not slouchy, our what or what ever there its just a ton of different sparkles in it there for it looks like that in the light

I'm sure in person you would pee your pants if you see it


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14125014*
> Move that 90 over to the Inlet on your CPU(assuming your flow is downhill), move the plug on the side to the bottom of your bridge and use the fitting from the CPU on the side. Much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I think that 90º on the cpu inlet would hit the fan.


----------



## musashin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14116577*
> You ain't been to the HAF thread lately have you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> 800D is also a good WC'ing Case. But since he was looking at a 690 II, I thought I would steer him in the right direction. 690s' are reasonably decent Cases but more Air Cooling than Water. Not set up very well for water imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Why would you say the 690II isn't good for water cooling, when it is one of the few mid-towers that can fit 2 240 rads internally with no modification/cutting? I can't say I'm aware of any others that can do that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14125209*
> I think that 90º on the cpu inlet would hit the fan.


True, I hadn't thought of that.. Maybe the Radiator or Res/Pump?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;14123516*
> it is powder coat
> 
> Doesn't look like that in person.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14125115*
> Its not slouchy, our what or what ever there its just a ton of different sparkles in it there for it looks like that in the light
> 
> I'm sure in person you would pee your pants if you see it


oh, alright, need to find a better place to take pics then, someplace that will have a nice even reflection so you can see the paint instead of whatever is being reflected.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *musashin;14125340*
> Why would you say the 690II isn't good for water cooling, when it is one of the few mid-towers that can fit 2 240 rads internally with no modification/cutting? I can't say I'm aware of any others that can do that.


There are quite few actually. The thing is that there are better for mounting a 360 and a 240 comfortably. With some modification you can add 2 360 Rads under the deck in the 800D. You can fit Radiators in a 922 even.

Just cause it can fit doesn't make it a great case though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ASO7

*worklog*
http://foro.noticias3d.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=338654


















































































[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsO78MvnjJ8&hd=1[/ame]


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

@AS07... Very nice. But your Vid needs to be longer and show more of that TJ07 water cooling goodness. Show everything. Leave no spot to the imagination. That is what Full Towers are for.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14128586*
> @AS07... Very nice. But your Vid needs to be longer and show more of that TJ07 water cooling goodness. Show everything. Leave no spot to the imagination. That is what Full Towers are for.


When i finish this project... =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Heh, I never let that stop me. My system is no where near close to being done. My temporary cooling system will be here next week. It's an upgrade over the H50 I have in the vid I have in my Sig. Once I get it leak tested and installed I'll be putting another one together.







lulz

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Haze_hellivo

I recommend you install the motherboard fan, it will improve temps. that board was designed for use with cpu fan heatsinks and improving the thermal armor efficency.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7;14128140*
> *worklog*
> http://foro.noticias3d.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=338654


That is some nice shots, and a nice rig ofcourse.







:thumb:


----------



## Stizuner

Someday i'll invest in an a bridge to connect my gpus.. until then:


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stizuner;14129563*
> Someday i'll invest in an a bridge to connect my gpus.. until then:


Nice Rig, awsome cable management, nice cable sleeving, very clean, but too much tubing


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stizuner;14129563*
> Someday i'll invest in an a bridge to connect my gpus.. until then:


Get some sli/xfire fittings that are adjustable (ie, phobya, koolance, bitspower, DD, etc). That is a lot of tubing, lovely color combo though


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*


I recommend you install the motherboard fan, it will improve temps. that board was designed for use with cpu fan heatsinks and improving the thermal armor efficency.


That's why I'm not removing the 200 from the door or the top of the Case. I'll be fine since my GPU vents out and my 140 is a Yate Loon High Speed. I can just drop the hammer on that little beastie in the BIOS. If my NB gets too hot I can also boost GPU fan. It's currently running at 45% and my NB is averaging 49-53c. Outside temp is 33c. It's 26c inside right now. So all in all not too bad. Only reason it's running so hot is cause I'm running the Stock Cooler while Folding at 100%.









I'm sure that if this were any other Case I wouldn't be folding at 100% on the Stock Cooler.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stizuner;14129563*
> Someday i'll invest in an a bridge to connect my gpus.. until then:
> 
> **snip**


Holy hell.









Want some Computer to go with that hose?









Good choice on color though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Stizuner

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Holy hell.









Want some Computer to go with that hose?









Good choice on color though.









~Ceadder










haha, it was my first build - I ordered the SLI bridge but it was not the right one... bound and determined to get my project done I just got creative. I havent got around to ordering the bridge but performance is good - I burned up a gpu in another rig and having the extra hose was nice because it allowed me to pop out the lower gpu and test it without disconnecting anything... so that part worked out.

But I want to lose another 4ft of hose lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stizuner*


haha, it was my first build - I ordered the SLI bridge but it was not the right one... bound and determined to get my project done I just got creative. I havent got around to ordering the bridge but performance is good - I burned up a gpu in another rig and having the extra hose was nice because it allowed me to pop out the lower gpu and test it without disconnecting anything... so that part worked out.

But I want to lose another 4ft of hose lol.


I ordered one of these (triple space) and ended up not using it at all








Great price and has a nice finish to it:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...hobya+variable


----------



## amgsport

Had a chance to take a few pics of my latest build, which is my new sig rig. Benchmarks, temps, etc are all holding well - 22hrs Prime blend @ 4.9GHz & 1.35CPUv, with no CPU core over 59C - so far, so good....


----------



## jellis142

^







Beautiful!


----------



## billythekid2012

not as good as most of the other rigs
but its ok.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012;14132772*
> not as good as most of the other rigs
> but its ok.


i dig it man..


----------



## Opp47

*New Parts Album..* please have a look and tell me what u think..

looking for feedback, ideas, advice.. this is only my second attempt at a water cooled rig so, all is welcome..








_*Slide Show*_


----------



## pali

Here is my rig:





































Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;14132957*
> *New Parts Album..* please have a look and tell me what u think..
> 
> looking for feedback, ideas, advice.. this is only my second attempt at a water cooled rig so, all is welcome..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _*Slide Show*_


Will you be using these for the Koolance ram blocks?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Boyboyd

What tubing is that? If I put a bend that extreme in mine it would just kink.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14134628*
> What tubing is that? If I put a bend that extreme in mine it would just kink.


PrimoChill baby, FTW!
















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Boyboyd

Sweet, thanks. I've thought about investing in some 90° fittings for the next time I re-tube everything. It's a bit loopy atm. I also want to put both radiators internally.

Bit pressed for time at the moment though. I've not even taken the side off my case in weeks.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14134745*
> Sweet, thanks. I've thought about investing in some 90° fittings for the next time I re-tube everything. It's a bit loopy atm. I also want to put both radiators internally.
> 
> Bit pressed for time at the moment though. I've not even taken the side off my case in weeks.


I've got two 45 degree rotaries and am waiting for 3 more to arrive. Bought them yesterday from PPCs'.










Will have my kit up and running by next Friday at the latest hopefully. Had to get a couple tubes of Shin-Etsu G751 and a Kill Coil.









The Enzotech 45s are very nice rotaries.



























~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## asturur

1x Phobya DC12-400 Pump 12V (Art.Nr.: 49071)
1x Phobya G-Changer 360 (Art.Nr.: 35153)
1x Phobya Balancer 250 nichel nero (Art.Nr.: 45153)
1x rasa waterblock
1x delta v3 xspc chipset waterblock
13/16 fittings and tube
1x Pgobya G-changer 140 rev 1.2
1 x radiator 120mm don't remember name
orange fanse , orange tubings, orange sleeves.
2 x gtx 470 waterblocks.
fanbus from LAMPTRON

The end results is this:

















































ok maybe is not one of the coolest pc ever, but is what i was searching for.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Want more? http://home.comcast.net/~nickbaldwin/site.html


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14133725*
> Will you be using these for the Koolance ram blocks?]


prob wont be using those till i upgrade ram... i have a 6g setup with 3x2 so the actual modules are too far away from each other to use those.


----------



## Opp47

just ordered the pieces for the massive cable sleeve project ahead of me..








ended up being much more expensive than i had anticipated..









Pix wen parts arrive


----------



## Tex1954

Gosh, could have gone fishing a couple days for the price of the sleeving stuff...

Pheewweeee!


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tex1954;14139329*
> Gosh, could have gone fishing a couple days for the price of the sleeving stuff...
> 
> Pheewweeee!


tell me about it...
its just that my first build was so esthetically unpleasing.. i didnt want to make any compromises on this one


----------



## superhead91

If anyone is looking for fans OCN has got a gentle typhoon group buy going on. Trying to spread the word since we still need almost 100 fans to order the complete models. http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1008615-official-gentle-typhoon-2150-group-buy.html


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14139612*
> If anyone is looking for fans OCN has got a gentle typhoon group buy going on. Trying to spread the word since we still need almost 100 fans to order the complete models. http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1008615-official-gentle-typhoon-2150-group-buy.html


how much??


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;14139820*
> how much??


The completes (meaning they have rpm meter so you can see the rpm of the fans) are $13 a piece. Not cheap, but AP-15s usually go for about $16 and these are actually a little more powerful. They're 2150rpm.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14140403*
> The completes (meaning they have rpm meter so you can see the rpm of the fans) are $13 a piece. Not cheap, but AP-15s usually go for about $16 and these are actually a little more powerful. They're 2150rpm.


when do u need to know by??


----------



## Tex1954

Hmm, for $15 you Aerocool Sharks with blue leds, 100K hrs MTBF, 82 CFM and 1500ish rpm...

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6579155&CatId=802

Never used those tornado things... how do they compare?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Opp47*


when do u need to know by??


Well I'm not sure. Tator Tot has been running the whole thing so I guess I'd PM him and ask. The barebones models (without RPM) already got filled and ordered. Unfortunately, we have to order at least 730 of the completes to be able to actually order them, and right now there are only 636 ordered, so the complete models are still open.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tex1954*


Hmm, for $15 you Aerocool Sharks with blue leds, 100K hrs MTBF, 82 CFM and 1500ish rpm...

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...9155&CatId=802

Never used those tornado things... how do they compare?











The Gentle Typhoons are regarded as having pretty much the best noise to performance ratio. They don't light up or anything, but they get the job done fairly quietly.


----------



## Tex1954

Hmm, well... Quiet is nice if they move enough air or have enough suck for a radiator...

Seems these typhoon things are very popular and that usually means it's a good product.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

wooden case update just wanna show off my jamaican sig rig

1x xspc rs 360
2x xspc rs 240s
1x EK Supreme hf rev 1 green top
2x rasa universal gpu block
9x xspc 1/2 id 3/4 od compression fittings
5x danger den 45c angle fittings 
1x swiftech micro res


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jamaican voodoo

here a few more pic


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amgsport*


Had a chance to take a few pics of my latest build, which is my new sig rig. Benchmarks, temps, etc are all holding well - 22hrs Prime blend @ 4.9GHz & 1.35CPUv, with no CPU core over 59C - so far, so good....






































Amazing build


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn;14123864*
> Ran out of fittings, lol


you dont need fitting, just undo the side port and place it in bottom???


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amgsport*


Had a chance to take a few pics of my latest build, which is my new sig rig. Benchmarks, temps, etc are all holding well - 22hrs Prime blend @ 4.9GHz & 1.35CPUv, with no CPU core over 59C - so far, so good....



59'C at 4.9 Ghz Stress Testing







your chip performs well ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;14144079*
> you dont need fitting, just undo the side port and place it in bottom???


I think that he means std fittings. You can move the 90 but it would still be a 90 and there would still be excess hose. Though I'm sure that 90 could be moved to a better location.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Glancey

12cores - build looks hot.


----------



## matrices

Can you guys list some options you use for SLI connectors that assume regular spacing (meaning: no spacing between dual-slot cards because of Tri-SLI configuration)?

I used to just use little bits of tubing and compression fittings but that was when I only had two cards and more space.

Like in that pic 12Core posted, what are those silver bits between the cards? How do you know what size to get?

I need something that lets me remove all the cards together (I have Koolance QDCs to isolate GPUs from rest of loop) without having to drain the loop, so nothing that will leak if I remove the cards from the system.

Also, the EK link thing looks like a rip-off so that's not an option, paying $70 between the bridge and three links.

(My motherboard in sig).


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14149242*


absolutely amazing looking setup you have rush, I am totally jealous. I need to get some stuff for my case to make it not suck so much. I also need to get another 22inch monitor to go with my current one and my 17inch I have.

hey rush could you make a false floor for my phantom?


----------



## Byakuya27

Update the PC crossfire 5870


----------



## amgsport

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


59'C at 4.9 Ghz Stress Testing







your chip performs well ?


Yes - surprisingly well









This is first Intel build I've done in several years. Based on other builds here, I expected 65-68C with the OC. So far 59C is the highest core temp & crazy thing is the variance between cores - #1 core hasn't gone above 56C yet, even with the long run @ 100% burn.

Makes me think this chip has headroom to go higher - although I'm really happy with fully stable (not one single BSOD) 4.9GHz


----------



## Zeva

Old picture moved the front tube to the back behind the mobo


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zeva*










Old picture moved the front tube to the back behind the mobo


why?

i always thought tubing makes the whole look of the build

the more the better

but everyone is differnt i guess


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Glancey*


12cores - build looks hot.


Thx


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


why?

i always thought tubing makes the whole look of the build

the more the better

but everyone is differnt i guess


tubing is good if it looks organized, when it is just laid all over the place it looks disorganized and sloppy.


----------



## RushMore1205

latest creation for a buddy of mine


----------



## DragonCypher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zeva*


*snip*
Old picture moved the front tube to the back behind the mobo



What tubing is that?, or is it red UV liquid?

I recently tried out a primochill UV red dye bomb.. 2 dye bombs and its so pale that anyone would think i used yellow instead of red.
I'm considering replacing it with red tubing, or non-uv blood red liquid.

The glowing effect at night is cool and all but I really like the light refracting properties of clear tubing. Makes it actually look like liquid rather than just tubes


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*


What tubing is that?, or is it red UV liquid?

I recently tried out a primochill UV red dye bomb.. 2 dye bombs and its so pale that anyone would think i used yellow instead of red.
I'm considering replacing it with red tubing, or non-uv blood red liquid.

The glowing effect at night is cool and all but I really like the light refracting properties of clear tubing. Makes it actually look like liquid rather than just tubes


try out feser one red. I've had good luck with their coolants.


----------



## Ceadderman

Or do like I'ma doing and run white with Red LED fans and RedwUV LED in block and Red LED in Res. I won't put dye in my loop. Ever.









~Ceadder


----------



## Opp47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I won't put dye in my loop. Ever.









~Ceadder










ya i agree 100%
i made that mistake with my first build... leaves a pretty nasty residue...


----------



## kevink82

My lastest rig, still a build in progress but its up and running atm. Still deciding how to go bout the cpu loop.... or keep it the way it is now.


----------



## N3Xus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;14156523*
> My lastest rig, still a build in progress but its up and running atm. Still deciding how to go bout the cpu loop.... or keep it the way it is now.


wow I love the look of that lian-li case


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;14156523*
> My lastest rig, still a build in progress but its up and running atm. Still deciding how to go bout the cpu loop.... or keep it the way it is now.


I would definitely move toward integrating your CPU into the loop. The Hydro Series Coolers are great little coolers. However they just cannot compare to running 1/2" ID flow wise.









Love the look of your system though. Took me a bit to see the 360 in the front. So you might consider lighting conditions the next time you take pics.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevink82

Its actually a 420 black ice xtreme rad, my room doesnt have great lighting and the thing is just too heavy to move downstairs and outside to take pics with


----------



## Ceadderman

Well when Mohammed can't go to the mountain, bring the mountain to Mohammed.









i.e. plug in lamp with low wattage bulb. Don't give yosef a hernia packin the beast around to take pics on account of me.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## DrakeZ

my first water cooling rig


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice HF block. Which Res is that?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14158393*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice HF block. Which Res is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thermaltake SR-100


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ;14158355*
> my first water cooling rig


you are not suppose to mount the EK HF blocks sideway like that, the jet plates do not work proprly

you should really fix that, it might get you better temps

he asked what RESERVOIR


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Rush how is your TJ07 coming along man? I'm getting myself a murderBox from a fellow OCN member next week, can't wait to start







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14158472*
> you are not suppose to mount the EK HF blocks sideway like that, the jet plates do not work proprly
> 
> you should really fix that, it might get you better temps
> 
> he asked what RESERVOIR


Ohhhh good catch on the Super. I didn't notice that. Probably cause my screen is 22" but I'm usually paying better attention than this. :+Rep to Rush.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;14157374*
> Its actually a 420 black ice xtreme rad, my room doesnt have great lighting and the thing is just too heavy to move downstairs and outside to take pics with


dont you mean a 480 rad?!, looks like a 360 to me.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14158472*
> you are not suppose to mount the EK HF blocks sideway like that, the jet plates do not work proprly
> 
> you should really fix that, it might get you better temps
> 
> he asked what RESERVOIR


It makes no difference and its the only way it can be mounted on AMd socket, it says in the block manual.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3;14158494*
> Rush how is your TJ07 coming along man? I'm getting myself a murderBox from a fellow OCN member next week, can't wait to start
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


its not going well at all, i have gotten 0 stuff done, im designing all my own murdermod type parts, but they are going to be a little differnt

i have been working 55 hours a week for the last 3 month, so i serioulsly had no time

plus i moved into a new place, and with new places comes new furniture

plus i bought 3 monitor arms that were 225$ a pop, so that set me back a lot


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14158587*
> It makes no difference and its the only way it can be mounted on AMd socket, it says in the block manual.


That's not what Rush was getting at Mate. Rush was CORRECTLY pointing out that the block is in the mount wrong. The HF Super Mounts with the round sides on the side like this...










Not sideways like this...(please forgive the plate being sidewayz)










Rev 1 HF block. The new Rev 2 blocks are the same only with Squaretop lid.









I've had both on this desk and both of them open. More likely, dude rotated the Squaretop thinking that he could do that. But it specifically states in the paperwork that is wrong.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;14156523*
> My lastest rig, still a build in progress but its up and running atm. Still deciding how to go bout the cpu loop.... or keep it the way it is now.


looks sick bro.. love the light setup









and i would deff add ur CPU to the loop.. EK makes some pretty nice copper blocks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14158668*


Your rig is missing from the pics


----------



## Opp47

i need help making a parts decision guys..
i have a strange GPU water block setup.. the inlet and outlet hole dont line up..
i was hoping someone could help me find a way to link them without using too much messy tubing..

thanx..

heres pix.. (sry i forgot the frst time lol)


----------



## snelan

**Yes, it is a water cooled HAF**

Switched to white tubing.

Thoughts.... Eh, it's alright.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Compression Fittings would perk that right up.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14159361*
> Your rig is missing from the pics


Cause I'm waiting for the rest of my gear still. Should be here soon though.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## snelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14159414*
> ^^^ Compression Fittings would perk that right up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cause I'm waiting for the rest of my gear still. Should be here soon though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yea that's what I'm thinking. The worst part is those ugly dirty white hose clamp things.


----------



## Opp47

i need help making a parts decision guys..
i have a strange GPU water block setup.. the inlet and outlet hole dont line up..
i was hoping someone could help me find a way to link them without using too much messy tubing..

thanx..

heres pix.. (sry i forgot the frst time lol)


----------



## Opp47

o **** sry for the dbl post.. just meant to edit...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;14159487*
> Sorry DP.


Fixed.









Would snake rotaries be too much out of your budget? Or is the difference more prominent than that?
















Yikes it is more pominent

Sorry onece again for







Hang on a bit lemme brainstorm.









Okay got half your problem solved. EnzoTech 90degree Rotary & 1/2" Compression(doesn't matter the brand)> Tubing > Compression Fitting sitting atop an ET 45 deg Rotary. This will shorten one tube and keep it from kinking at the same time.

Working on the Left side and that's the more difficult one as far as I can see in that rats nest.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## Ceadderman

Looks good Rush, but 2 things.

1st I'm not sure I could live with the Res hanging out over the HDD. Looks cool, but (knock on wood throw salt over should says bread an butter while walking carefully under ladder then genuflects to the east) should it leak? Yeah I'm not sure bout that at all.









2nd Would look better if it were all copper instead of Nickel.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14159627*
> Fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would snake rotaries be too much out of your budget? Or is the difference more prominent than that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yikes it is more pominent
> 
> Sorry onece again for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hang on a bit lemme brainstorm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay got half your problem solved. EnzoTech 90degree Rotary & 1/2" Compression(doesn't matter the brand)> Tubing > Compression Fitting sitting atop an ET 45 deg Rotary. This will shorten one tube and keep it from kinking at the same time.
> 
> Working on the Left side and that's the more difficult one as far as I can see in that rats nest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


sweet man!! thanx.. thats much cheaper than what i was planning..


----------



## Ceadderman

No problem. I'm assuming that the right side of your top card is inlet. What I came up with is the outlet side to go inlet which will cross behind outlet to CPU. Can't shorten that one. But Instead of a T in your Inlet coming off that Swiftech pump, you might look into 3 QD fittings take out some of the excess and run it straight to the Inlet.

When it's time to drain your loop, Disconnect, connect the drain hose and remove that when empty. Reconnect fill and away you go. Is nearly 30 bucks for just the fittings depending on where you buy them but it's a lifetime of less headaches.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14160085*
> No problem. I'm assuming that the right side of your top card is inlet. What I came up with is the outlet side to go inlet which will cross behind outlet to CPU. Can't shorten that one. But Instead of a T in your Inlet coming off that Swiftech pump, you might look into 3 QD fittings take out some of the excess and run it straight to the Inlet.
> 
> When it's time to drain your loop, Disconnect, connect the drain hose and remove that when empty. Reconnect fill and away you go. Is nearly 30 bucks for just the fittings depending on where you buy them but it's a lifetime of less headaches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


can u make a little diagram of what ur talking about??


----------



## Ceadderman

Top card

Out - In

Bottom card

Out - In

Top out to Bottom In.

If you're speaking of replacing the T with Quick Disconnects, it's as you have it set up now but without the T. So the Inlet from the Pump gets a QD Connection. Cut hose in Half Compression Connection on one half with another on the other half. Both connect up and no leaks.
Then you have a single piece of Tubing that isn't being used needs to be long enough to drain into a bucket or whatever you plan to use. Apply another half of QD to that piece and keep it in a safe place. The Disconnect that matters the most is the one on the pump side. So you must have 2 of the GPU side to connect to it. Basically your Male end will be on the Pump side and Female end on the Card side.

Simple enough?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

wow so... i just did the math... and at the best price i could find.. the fittings alone, not including any rotaries, will cost me 181.74


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14160272*
> Top card
> 
> Out - In
> 
> Bottom card
> 
> Out - In
> 
> Top out to Bottom In.
> 
> If you're speaking of replacing the T with Quick Disconnects, it's as you have it set up now but without the T. So the Inlet from the Pump gets a QD Connection. Cut hose in Half Compression Connection on one half with another on the other half. Both connect up and no leaks.
> Then you have a single piece of Tubing that isn't being used needs to be long enough to drain into a bucket or whatever you plan to use. Apply another half of QD to that piece and keep it in a safe place. The Disconnect that matters the most is the one on the pump side. So you must have 2 of the GPU side to connect to it. Basically your Male end will be on the Pump side and Female end on the Card side.
> 
> Simple enough?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


i think i follow wha ure sayin... ill post pix as soon as parts arrive...
still gotta think about how bad i want compressions on everything..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;14160286*
> wow so... i just did the math... and at the best price i could find.. the fittings alone, not including any rotaries, will cost me 181.74


Where are you shopping? And how many fittings are we talking about?









6 EK Comp fittings cost me $50
5 ET rotaries cost me $35

Of course this is before shipping but I think you're looking at some gold plate shiz there my friend.









Piece meal it. A little here and a little there. Don't replace anything that don't need direct replacement until you're ready to replace it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## RushMore1205

in my build i have spend at least 300 on differnt fittings


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14159986*
> Looks good Rush, but 2 things.
> 
> 1st I'm not sure I could live with the Res hanging out over the HDD. Looks cool, but (knock on wood throw salt over should says bread an butter while walking carefully under ladder then genuflects to the east) should it leak? Yeah I'm not sure bout that at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd Would look better if it were all copper instead of Nickel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


no it would not be better all coper, i dont like coper at all, plus i dont have a non of my block have nickel following off, and its been more then 6 month,
there is some slight damage to the block i bought from WERMAD, but my orignal blocks have 0 issues

and the res on the outside i love cause i hate sidepanels, i want to be able to see and touch all of my components if i need to at ease, plus i have an internal fan controller

and filling the loop is extrmly easy as well as emptinh it cause i can just take it out and not have to worry about any tubing inside when conerning the res


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey Rushmore, I trimmed down your list of posts in the list, you reached the 16 post limit.

edit: PS- I think we should have a throw down to see who really has the sexiest red







what do you say? Open up a poll thread and let the [email protected]# hit the fan?


----------



## kevink82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14158548*
> dont you mean a 480 rad?!, looks like a 360 to me.


140x3 = 420, pcx2000f does not have any 120mm fan holes anywhere on it unfortunately.


----------



## kevink82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14159986*
> Looks good Rush, but 2 things.
> 
> 1st I'm not sure I could live with the Res hanging out over the HDD. Looks cool, but (knock on wood throw salt over should says bread an butter while walking carefully under ladder then genuflects to the east) should it leak? Yeah I'm not sure bout that at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd Would look better if it were all copper instead of Nickel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Personal taste i guess i though nickel looks better and does not tarnish over time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

hey Rushmore, I trimmed down your list of posts in the list, you reached the 16 post limit.

edit: PS- I think we should have a throw down to see who really has the sexiest red







what do you say? Open up a poll thread and let the [email protected]# hit the fan? 


No contest, I win.



























And the obligatory water shot...










Ish jesh so dead sacsy.



















~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


No contest, I win.










you think so?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yep I do. I just like the less is more approach.







heh

Although I do like yours too. Mine is just that Scarlet Red that looked so awesome for the 49ers for so long. So I'm a bit biased I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

less is more? I can dig that, but just sayin', mine is mostly black, not red


----------



## Ceadderman

All my red is strictly accents. Yours is still good, mine is just better. :"D

Hey at least we don't show off blue.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

you have red LED's, I cannot support that


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha, still accentual.







lulz

Wait til I add my loop material in and get some UV ones to accent them. I plan to run one Red one UV for CPU block, 2 Red one UV Res and run some UV ones behind the MoBo to light up some white edge trim that I plan to install on the Mobo tray.









Gonna make that Red really stand out.









~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Mine is much better


----------



## kevingreenbmx

whatever floats your boat man, but lights are not my thing, they look cheep to me.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

I like Kevins. I agree on the fan thing too. But what year do you plan on transplanting your rig to a new case, Kevin? You've had that Lian Li forever haha!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


whatever floats your boat man, but lights are not my thing, they look cheep to me.










This is my first watercooling rig, 4-5 Modifications still left to do... ask HardStyle, but you shoudlnt imagine the next one..I wont do the mistake again to add some f**ckin LED, they suck


----------



## Ceadderman

Just got my EK Triple Serial Block from one of our guys(Brand New w/o the screws) and my 45s' too. Slowly but surely I'm gettin this thing together.























~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Just got my EK Triple Serial Block from one of our guys(Brand New w/o the screws) and my 45s' too. Slowly but surely I'm gettin this thing together.























~Ceadder










Triple or Dual-triple-spaced??? You doing tri-fire?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Triple or Dual-triple-spaced??? You doing tri-fire?










You can have triple bridge with only 2 Graphic Cards...with one blank link between both cards.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Triple or Dual-triple-spaced??? You doing tri-fire?










I wish I was doing Tri. Will be Dual triple spaced to take advantage of the x16 slots on my MoBo.









I'm busy looking through the ends and caps at PPCs' to see which ones I need. I've looked inside the block and can definitely state that it's not parallel.









Parallel is better yes?









~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Parallel is better yes?









~Ceadder










I'm not sure, I think it depends on the amount of pumps you have..if you have them in serial or parallel if you have two pumps.. Also depends on the amount of components you have in your loop, also depends on how much restriction your components have..

I just started a thread on the way the water flow goes into the GFX (serial or parallel) and I'm really not sure what to do..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


I'm not sure, I think it depends on the amount of pumps you have..if you have them in serial or parallel if you have two pumps.. Also depends on the amount of components you have in your loop, also depends on how much restriction your components have..

I just started a thread on the way the water flow goes into the GFX (serial or parallel) and I'm really not sure what to do..


Well I'm definitely only going for one at the moment. But since I'll have the XSPC 750 dual bay, I'll technically have two of them available once I get my EK 4.0 unit.

But I'm not going to have Triple SLI/XFire.

I plan on XFire with Full Coverage MoBo block, and CPU. That's it. Gonna run single loop on 1/2inch ID tubing. I doubt I'd need a second pump. But obviously I won't know until I get it all together.









~Ceadder


----------



## bdpakaknox

Replaced the stock clear tubing in the XSPC kit with some 7\\16'' White Primochill. Also remounted the rad.

Before-


And After-

-


Fans with some sleeving are definitely on the shopping list.


----------



## Opp47

does anyone happen to have, or know someone that has, a hydrocopper16 for a gtx280??

ive been looking online and thought the prices would have dropped by now and have not..









soooo.. im gonna try and go used so i can finally get my trip SLI going


----------



## Nickzorz91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you think so?



























One of the sexiest computers I've ever seen...bravo.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you think so?




























Do you have two radiators in a row?


----------



## Yokes29

Extremely stupid noob question for you guys: 
I'm thinking of getting some copper water blocks for my video cards (ex: EK Acetal+Copper). Is it just the copper in the inside that gets all tarnished & oxidized or does the whole copper part of the block get all discolored; Such as the shiny exterior's
seen in EK blocks and Heatkiller GPU blocks.


----------



## catcherintherye

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


whatever floats your boat man, but lights are not my thing, they look cheep to me.










So how do you see your parts in the dark


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yokes29*


Extremely stupid noob question for you guys: 
I'm thinking of getting some copper water blocks for my video cards (ex: EK Acetal+Copper). Is it just the copper in the inside that gets all tarnished & oxidized or does the whole copper part of the block get all discolored; Such as the shiny exterior's
seen in EK blocks and Heatkiller GPU blocks.


I think you are refering to the EK NICKEL plated blocks. Copper stays fine with good coolant such as distilled water + silver coil.


----------



## kevink82

Copper exterior will get tarnish over time its a natural process, when u change coolant every few months just use ketchup or coke to clean it and all will be new and shinny again.

Nickel do not tarnish i think you are referring to nickel peeling issue for EK which is a defect.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevink82*


Copper exterior will get tarnish over time its a natural process, when u change coolant every few months just use ketchup or coke to clean it and all will be new and shinny again.



I knew about vinegar but not coke and ketchup









But honestly, KETCHUP???


----------



## Yokes29

Thanks for the replies kevink82 & KaRLiToS








Just wondering about discoloration that's all. Thanks! 
I'm aware the whole Nickel corrosion fiasco. Sucks.
Reps!


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


I knew about vinegar but not coke and ketchup









But honestly, KETCHUP???


Might be the vinegar in the ketchup. Copper blocks are like pennies. Over time, they don't look brand new. But it takes a while. Don't worry about it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


I knew about vinegar but not coke and ketchup









But honestly, KETCHUP???


Tomatoes are mildly acidic. So yup, Catsup is a decent tool. I like Vinegar myself. Great for flushing through the loop to make sure the channels and tubes get thoroughly cleaned. I actually use that on Plexi aquariums.









~Ceadder


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Tomatoes are mildly acidic. So yup, Catsup is a decent tool. I like Vinegar myself. Great for flushing through the loop to make sure the channels and tubes get thoroughly cleaned. I actually use that on Plexi aquariums.









~Ceadder










I usually clean my blocks off with some warm water (~175F). Then using simple glycerin soap or isopropyl alcohol if necessary for coolant stains or stubborn thermal paste. Did that to this EK waterblock before installing to remove any microscopic metal pieces. Oh, and a toothbrush is good too.









Just ordered up a Corsair AX850 and another 6870 for CrossFire. Was thinking about getting some non-ref waterblocks for these video cards, but I don't like the idea of spending all that money on blocks that aren't full cover. In the future it would be nice if ATI would just remove the DisplayPort requirements for Eyefinity. Then I could stop using these Sapphire FleX cards and move to reference model which support the standard, full-cover vga blocks. (Not really interested either in buying expensive active display adapters). Not likely I'll be moving to new displays very soon which support DisplayPort by default since these monitors I have should be good for at least 5 years. Wish ATI would have thought that through a little before finalizing the Eyefinity specification.

Took the side panel off and here's where it currently stands.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14158323*


Looks like you're cooling your rig with the blood of the damned. Very gothic.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickzorz91;14165196*
> One of the sexiest computers I've ever seen...bravo.


thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14165215*
> Do you have two radiators in a row?


my loop goes like this:

out of the bottom of the res> pump in bottom> 240 rad in bottom> GPUs> 120 rad in back> Mobo block> 360 rad in top> 240 rad in front> CPU> back in to the top of the res
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catcherintherye;14165236*
> So how do you see your parts in the dark


when it is dark in my room I am either watching a movie and do not want extra light, or I am asleep and my computer is off


----------



## Opp47

update.. finished de-sleeving


----------



## Bouf0010

for anyone whos interested, EK came out with a Mobo block for the P67 Sabertooth.

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek-mosfet-sabertooth-p67-acetal.html


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm currently working on connector changes for my LED unit. But while I was add it I set up my Leakdown test plug. Even sleeved it in MDPC.

I wanted to have something insulated and just a little nicer looking rather than use a little uninsulated paper clip.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PDXMark

Nice work Ceadderman.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14168278*
> I'm currently working on connector changes for my LED unit. But while I was add it I set up my Leakdown test plug. Even sleeved it in MDPC.
> 
> I wanted to have something insulated and just a little nicer looking rather than use a little uninsulated paper clip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Leds are annoying specially if you're watching a movie and they distract you form the screen unless they have a switch.

I like to use cold cathodes, much easier to mount and better lighting.

Are those leds gonna be permanently on?


----------



## Opp47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I'm currently working on connector changes for my LED unit. But while I was add it I set up my Leakdown test plug. Even sleeved it in MDPC.

I wanted to have something insulated and just a little nicer looking rather than use a little uninsulated paper clip.









~Ceadder










nice Ceadder..

im waiting for my connectors to arrive.. let me know how the process goes for ya..

also..

anyone got any suggestions on a new mobo/cpu combo?? i miiiight be starting a new worklog






















any input is appreciated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*


Leds are annoying specially if you're watching a movie and they distract you form the screen unless they have a switch.

I like to use cold cathodes, much easier to mount and better lighting.

Are those leds gonna be permanently on?


Well right now these LED's aren't going to work. I have to find out what the voltage is on them and if they need to be DC powered or something else.

Once I get them working? Yup 24/7. Which really won't be an issue because I run Red. Most any other flavor is too bright. I spent 3 years in the Military and have found that Red is an excellent night vision tool. Being that it's sitting next to my monitor I can assure you that there is no glare on the monitor from my 932. I even swapped out the Power, HDD units because the Blue ones were laser bright. I'd be willing to bet that my LED fans while being able to light up my system are probably dimmer than any CCL in existence.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Opp47*


nice Ceadder..

im waiting for my connectors to arrive.. let me know how the process goes for ya..

also..

anyone got any suggestions on a new mobo/cpu combo?? i miiiight be starting a new worklog






















any input is appreciated










Thanks, I connected them up properly to my knowledge(Based on PPCs' +/- information on the product page) but I've connected the unit up to the MoBo in two spots and it doesn't light up at all. I'm wondering if product page was typo. LEDs' should be able to work off a MoBo header. Although fan LEDs' are soldered to PCB, they have a dual LED kit that uses a 4pin Mole. So I might try wiring them in serial and trying it that way.

I really want it working when I'm done with leakdown testing the loop. At least I got some G751 to use instead of MX paste. MX2 is nowhere near as good, and I'm not finding any info on MX4.









Also got my EK comps teflon taped and connected to the ET 45deg rotaries. Once my stuff arrives, hopefully Monday or Tuesday it's time to leakdown. Yaaaaaay! Can't wait to compare my H50 temps with 750 lph and 1/2" flowrate.























~Ceadder


----------



## Opp47

Quote:



Thanks, I connected them up properly to my knowledge(Based on PPCs' +/- information on the product page) but I've connected the unit up to the MoBo in two spots and it doesn't light up at all. I'm wondering if product page was typo. LEDs' should be able to work off a MoBo header. Although fan LEDs' are soldered to PCB, they have a dual LED kit that uses a 4pin Mole. So I might try wiring them in serial and trying it that way.

I really want it working when I'm done with leakdown testing the loop. At least I got some G751 to use instead of MX paste. MX2 is nowhere near as good, and I'm not finding any info on MX4.









Also got my EK comps teflon taped and connected to the ET 45deg rotaries. Once my stuff arrives, hopefully Monday or Tuesday it's time to leakdown. Yaaaaaay! Can't wait to compare my H50 temps with 750 lph and 1/2" flowrate.























~Ceadder










sickkkk... keep me posted bro


----------



## Opp47

Ok soo.. The new build is officially on!!














(still finishing the chassis transplant and the other small update on my other rig tho)









I have decided that it is time for a full on hardware overhaul..







Done sinking money into making my old loops pretty, while shiny and flashy new stuff comes and goes..
















With the new dual core GPUs on the rise,














I just cannot wait any longer to upgrade..









Here is the list of parts to come.. Ill post a link to my worklog as soon as I get around to starting it..

MOBO--> Asus Rampage III Black Edition
CPU----> Intel Core i7 990x Extreme Edition 
GPU----> EVGA GTX 590 Classified (x2) **ordered and on the way**








SSD----> Corsair Force Series GT 60GB SATAIII
HDD----> WD VelociRaptor 600GB SATA6.0GB/s 10000rpm 
RAM----> Corsair Dominator GT 12GB (3 x 4GB) 
PSU----> ?????
CASE---> ??????
SUGGESTIONS PLEASE
CPU BLOCK ?????
RAD ?????
RES ??????
PUMP ???????


----------



## Ceadderman

Whatever you get, MUST be Black.









go with PrimoChill tubing too. Iz neyes.









~Ceadder


----------



## Opp47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Whatever you get, MUST be Black.









go with PrimoChill tubing too. Iz neyes.










~Ceadder










Yes.. i will be calling this build "Black Rampage"

please sub to my worklog --> BLACK RAMPAGE


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14164782*
> I wish I was doing Tri. Will be Dual triple spaced to take advantage of the x16 slots on my MoBo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm busy looking through the ends and caps at PPCs' to see which ones I need. I've looked inside the block and can definitely state that it's not parallel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parallel is better yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


In terms of pressure, yes, though its slight. As far as thermal performance, there is none imo.

btw, I made a mistake, its a triple since I see the middle screw holes, so you must have blank to cover up that middle port??? I sold my parallel triple bridge and three nvidia links a month or so ago.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=fc-bridge


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14179551*
> In terms of pressure, yes, though its slight. As far as thermal performance, there is none imo.
> 
> btw, I made a mistake, its a triple since I see the middle screw holes, so you must have blank to cover up that middle port??? I sold my parallel triple bridge and three nvidia links a month or so ago.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=fc-bridge


Yup have to have a $10 block off plate to run dual GPU setup. I might be able to use the ends from a 5870 or 5970 since they have a similar bolting pattern to connect up. But since I'm in no real hurry to get it done right away(lacking 2nd card) I'm just going to piecemeal order them combined with other orders to get what I'm after.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## bundymania

......a yellow truck lost a package in front of my house......3..2..1...now it´s mine







:


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

New Pics


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7;14128140*


Looks good...but it needs sleeving ewwww


----------



## Farih

Er L0kO that looks sooooooooooo sexy









excelent nice tight tubing work.
and excellent picture's









Nice job m8


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih;14189578*
> Er L0kO that looks sooooooooooo sexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> excelent nice tight tubing work.
> and excellent picture's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job m8


Thanks!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## dino213aa

http://youtu.be/-MWwiLo6gEw


----------



## k1msta

Can I play








its my first custom pc and First time WC, so take it easy on me
















my Upside down hidden Mcp 350 pump w/ xspc top








My draining setup








Custom Swivel Bracket and Drain port








Evga BackCover








Koolance block








Backveiw








Silver coil








thx for looking


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey guys I need some assistance. I recently got my SLI/XFire block. But I got it without screws. So I need to know what the lengths and thread pitch are to mount my EK Bridge to 58 series GPU caps and cover for my EK FC Triple Serial Link.

I've got one 5770 and will be getting another and the blocks (1 copper/1 nickel) and I've pretty much figured out that I can get by with the 58** series connectors. But it says that the bridge comes with the screws. I got it used and it doesn't have the screws. So I need to know which size and threadpitch to get. Thanks.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## svisse

Followed this thread a while ago and just stumbled upon it again. Wanted to share som images from my two latest h20 builds.

First one was built just to prove that 3 x 360 rads + a 240 rad + a 120 rad can be fitted on a fractal define r3 chassi.Ohh push pull on all radiators. Dual loops cooling a q6600 and two radeon 4890 cards.



















The other build was a htpc built in a Lian li pc-q08 chassi. Mini-itx mboard from zotac. 4 g xms3 ram, i5-760 cpu, amd 6870 , corsair vx-550 psu. Watercooling on the cpu and gpu. One 240 rad in the top and a 140 mm rad in the front. The system has been running as my primary computer with really low temps when gaming. Added a small analog fan controller in the front of the chassis.
































































For my next project i'm fitting two water cooled 6990 gpus and a i7-2600k processor in a silverstone ft03 chassis. Cooling using two laing d5 in a serial configured pump top. two 240 rads, one 120 mm rad, and a 140 mm rad is all the cooling that will fit in the chassis.I hope that it will suffice. I have also got the hold of a usb-monitor for showing temps and other lul-lul stuff. Stay tuned


----------



## musashin

Epic first post. That fractal build is insane, though really extremely past the aesthetically pleasing zone.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svisse;14200049*
> Followed this thread a while ago and just stumbled upon it again. Wanted to share som images from my two latest h20 builds.
> 
> First one was built just to prove that 3 x 360 rads + a 240 rad + a 120 rad can be fitted on a fractal define r3 chassi.Ohh push pull on all radiators. Dual loops cooling a q6600 and two radeon 4890 cards.


Madness rig is madness


----------



## Bouf0010

soon to be new addition to my Sabertooth P67 board


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## morencyam

Finally got around to taking pictures of the new revision. I added a second GTX470 with an EK 470 full cover block, an RX240, and switched out the mcp655 with dual mcp350's from bmaverick. I also added the UV cathode and put CM R4's on the 480 rad


----------



## SQLinsert

the tube that goes out of your 120x2 radiator goes into the larger radiator?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14205433*
> the tube that goes out of your 120x2 radiator goes into the larger radiator?


That's correct. It goes out the 240, run up behind the mobo tray, and through the grometed wire hole to the 480


----------



## matrices

It doesn't matter what order his radiators are in the loop; the end result is basically the same.

Great job, though. Love to see something aside from the usual red/blue color schemes.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matrices;14206006*
> It doesn't matter what order his radiators are in the loop; the end result is basically the same.
> 
> Great job, though. Love to see something aside from the usual red/blue color schemes.


Thank you, that's one of the reasons I chose orange.

Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


----------



## B3RGY

Love the orange morencyam, looks great and it's nice to see form the typical red/blue color scheme!


----------



## sLAIN650

Not the best pics in the world but the best i can do without an actual camera.
Its a corsair obsidian 800d with a 480 rad in the top and a 280 in the bottom.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## skyn3t

hey guys i dont want to start another thread , but I'm sure you guys can help me , as you know my Rig Below I'll put everything under water and going to add another GTX 570 , but i do have my mid casa haf 922 and the thing is a RX240 with RX120 Single Fan Rad will be enough to cool down my system , because the things is i dont really want any rad outside the case and i was thinking to mod a RX360 but it is too big to accommodate everything inside. please point me in the right direction thanks

1-BDY-TK200Reservoir Body, 60x200mm (WxL), 393ml
1-COV-RP450Pump Nozzle & Reservoir Base for PMP-450/S (60mm OD)
1-COV-TKTOPReservoir Top with Fill Port (60mm OD)
1-CPU-370 (CPU), 1.5mm Midplate [no nozzles]
2-VID-NX580 (GeForce GTX 580/570)
1-Swiftech MCP655
1-PrimoFlex Pro LRT White

fitting and Rad need to be chosen


----------



## Tex1954

Well, I use an RX360 and an RX240 with ten 1500RPM fans in push/pull to cool my i-7 950 and dual GTX560 Ti SC video cards.

It works fine at 4.25GHz 24/7 so long as the room temperature is kept at 70f or so. Otherwise, the temps start to rise and touch 80c under full load. In fact, I have a problem in that the A/C in this old apartment can't keep up... so I have to run HT off and 50% load during hot days to keep temps below 60c.

So, if you live on the north pole, those 2 rads will probably work, otherwise I would add more cooling power.


----------



## jellis142

^ I am speechless.


----------



## Aliaus

Here are some amateur pron for you guys, taken with an iphone camera.

Not much decent watercooled Antec 1200's on here except for RushMore's. Not a bad setup but I never liked the look of external rads, and the fact that you can't close the side panel is a big turn-off for me.

With that said, here's my baby, Future City Jazz


































































































































XSPC X2O DC 750
XSPC RX120 (top) RX240 (back) RX360 (front)
XSPC compression fitting (at $4 each, cheapest I can find)
EK Supreme HF
EK FC 6970
EK VGA Supreme HF
Swiftech MCRES MICRO
Primoflex 1/2 ID 3/4 OD
Yate Loons high speed
Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6

Fans are dialed down to the point where they have just enough power to spin when the system turns on, completely silent and very cool. cpu and gpu idle night temps are in the high 20s and day temps are in the mid 30s. A 60 GB SSD and a 300 GB Velociraptor is mounted the same way as the 2 TB green drive but on the back panel side. My first watercooling experience and I'm very satisfied with the results, in both looks and performance.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k1msta;14196664*
> Can I play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its my first custom pc and First time WC, so take it easy on me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my Upside down hidden Mcp 350 pump w/ xspc top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My draining setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom Swivel Bracket and Drain port
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Evga BackCover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backveiw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silver coil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx for looking


nice setup how is you temp and how many rad you have in the loop


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svisse;14200049*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUTE]
> 
> am i the only one to mention the epic win that this rig is?? nutz dude, and although i do have a soft spot for big PC's in little cases, the planning and results of this make me a little wett


----------



## Tex1954

I don't like open Rads either, but sometimes it's the only way, especially for super cheapo BOINC beater boxes... Before I turned the fans around to push and added filters, this is what happened after a couple weeks...


----------



## bundymania

@CH4PZ: What about a Triple SLI Setup in this Case ?


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14211826*
> @CH4PZ: What about a Triple SLI Setup in this Case ?


sorry bundy you will have to give me more than that


----------



## Tex1954

CH4PZ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *svisse*
> 
> 
> am i the only one to mention the epic win that this rig is?? nutz dude, and although i do have a soft spot for big PC's in little cases, the planning and results of this make me a little wett
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is that box and what is inside it??? Amazingly tight in there! Maybe something I need to do for a BOINC cruncher box...


----------



## svisse

@CH4PZ
Thanks alot. I took some time to complete the build and "my plan" had to be changed a couple of times because stuff didnt fit the way i had intended. 
I followed the the saying: "Buy, then try" 

@Tex
The build comprises:

Zotac H55-ITX Mini-ITX
Corsair 4GB (2x2048MB) 1333MHz XMS3-10600
Intel Core i5 760, 2.8GHz
Lian Li PC-Q08B mini-ITX Svart
Corsair VX 550W 80+
XFX Radeon HD 6870
Corsair force 120 SSD
3 x Samsung F3 1 TB drives

Laing DDC-pump 12V DDC-1Plus with Phobya Laing DDC top
Watercool HK CPU LGA1156 Rev. 3.0 LT - White
EK Water Blocks EK-FC6870 fullcover block
MagiCool SLIM SINGLE 140 MC Radiator
XSPC RS240 BLACK Dual Radiator
Swiftech MCRES-Micro AGB
Primochill tubing PrimoFlex Pro 16/13 (7/16"ID) white 2 m
Phobya assorted compression fittings
Some sleeve
3 st Scythe Slip Stream Slim 1600rpm fans
one 140 mm fan

heres some more pics:





































Its a PITA to remove the GPU since it has to be removed from the back and not from the front. After the gpu is released from the mboard pci-e port locking mechanism the backside can be pulled of. Well its really a PITA to do anything in the case now that i think of it.

This time i used the kitchen knife


----------



## chorner

Here's a quick snap of mine while in progress of being built


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *svisse*


This time i used the kitchen knife 











_"They got me Johnny.."_


----------



## Glancey

@Svisse: I feel like punching babies working with the Antec 1200.. I think I'd probably thow your case out the window within an hour. Haha.


----------



## Opp47

Wow look at this new heatsink tech.. looks pretty dope and aparently blows conventional ones away.. The-Fanless-Spinning-Heatsink

o and btw... very very nice work svisse.. props


----------



## Ceadderman

@bundymania...Great idea, but you're not seriously considering running multiple fitting sizes in your loop are you?









~Ceadder


----------



## Freakn

Ceadderman, you know he's a reviewer?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Freakn*


Ceadderman, you know he's a reviewer?


Lord I hope so. My OCD went







when I scrolled to the bottom of his post and saw all those different sized fittings.


















~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chorner;14212428*
> Here's a quick snap of mine while in progress of being built


Case Labs pr0n


----------



## Tex1954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svisse;14212354*
> @CH4PZ
> Thanks alot. I took some time to complete the build and "my plan" had to be changed a couple of times because stuff didnt fit the way i had intended.
> I followed the the saying: "Buy, then try"
> 
> @Tex
> The build comprises:
> 
> Zotac H55-ITX Mini-ITX
> Corsair 4GB (2x2048MB) 1333MHz XMS3-10600
> Intel Core i5 760, 2.8GHz
> Lian Li PC-Q08B mini-ITX Svart
> Corsair VX 550W 80+
> XFX Radeon HD 6870
> Corsair force 120 SSD
> 3 x Samsung F3 1 TB drives
> 
> Laing DDC-pump 12V DDC-1Plus with Phobya Laing DDC top
> Watercool HK CPU LGA1156 Rev. 3.0 LT - White
> EK Water Blocks EK-FC6870 fullcover block
> MagiCool SLIM SINGLE 140 MC Radiator
> XSPC RS240 BLACK Dual Radiator
> Swiftech MCRES-Micro AGB
> Primochill tubing PrimoFlex Pro 16/13 (7/16"ID) white 2 m
> Phobya assorted compression fittings
> Some sleeve
> 3 st Scythe Slip Stream Slim 1600rpm fans
> one 140 mm fan
> 
> heres some more pics:
> 
> Its a PITA to remove the GPU since it has to be removed from the back and not from the front. After the gpu is released from the mboard pci-e port locking mechanism the backside can be pulled of. Well its really a PITA to do anything in the case now that i think of it.
> 
> This time i used the kitchen knife


OUTSTANDING! I see the work that went into that... and can appreciate it.


----------



## leighteam

Look what I got in the mail today! Planning on keeping two, and selling the other eight... Probably going to end up getting the two I have for free while making a small profit selling the other eight on eBay.























































Also included temps:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## k1msta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyn3t*


nice setup how is you temp and how many rad you have in the loop


I have 2 240 rad. RX and RS on the top..
havent did a load test yet but right now im getting cpu 30-33 gpu 29-35.. i know i could get better temp for my cpu once the Gt 2150 comes in


----------



## bundymania

New Part from IKEA ? No....

New Primochill Myriad Reservoir


----------



## Glancey

What's this, another primochill fail?

Are those o rings behind the housing in pic 5?

I'd be surprised if this came with any sort of warranty.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

interesting design... seems like it could be simplified though... lots of places to potentially leak.


----------



## SQLinsert

strange idea to put the front 8x screws behind a piece of 3m adhesive and a frontplate ...

but the acrylic looks very nice


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Glancey*


What's this, another primochill fail?

Are those o rings behind the housing in pic 5?

I'd be surprised if this came with any sort of warranty.


You have to install a big o-ring from both sides and 6 more o-rings at all ! (including 4 rings for the stop fittings) A part from the manual is missing, so i had to figure it out myself, how all comes together







Better donÂ´t ask, how long it takes, to bring all parts together properly !









What i donÂ´t understand in general: This Res. costs 100 Euro and the costumer must install all parts himself. Other Res. from this typ costs half of the price and comes fully build to the customer !










ItÂ´s tricky to install all parts from this Res. - and i guess, a user which is new in watercooling hobby will be frustrated, when having such a item at the very beginning !









The potential to damage the res. is relative high, because of 8 ! screws in the front (acrylic!) especially for beginners !

The faceplate just sticks on the acrylic front via 3m tape...no screws there

When i was installing the parts...i was asking myself: Are they meaning it serious or is this a bad joke or what ?

Finally...at the end...WHEN the Res. is properly mounted...itÂ´s ok...looks good..function is ok...but why the heck must the user do the job for a 100 EUR Reservoir ???


----------



## joaobezerranetojbn

My first WC


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joaobezerranetojbn*


My first WC



everything is very awsome, but you need to sleeve those cables


----------



## joaobezerranetojbn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


everything is very awsome, but you need to sleeve those cables


I know that, i already have the sleeves from mdpc, but i'm with a lot of tests at the university, but i think until the end of this month, i will get all the cables sleeved, than i take photos and post here for you see the results..

Sorry for the english, i'm brazilian.


----------



## svisse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joaobezerranetojbn*


I know that, i already have the sleeves from mdpc, but i'm with a lot of tests at the university, but i think until the end of this month, i will get all the cables sleeved, than i take photos and post here for you see the results..

Sorry for the english, i'm brazilian.


Very nice build and welcome to the wet side


----------



## superhead91

Quick question... How loud should the water running through your loop be? Just set up my first loop and I wanna make sure I'm doing everything right.


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Quick question... How loud should the water running through your loop be? Just set up my first loop and I wanna make sure I'm doing everything right.


the loudest things should either be your pump and then the case fans

if you're hearing periodic "quishhh" sounds it's just air escaping out of the radiator nooks

other than that all my builds have been silent. you may get some noise around obstacles like odd reservoir paths but other than that I can't think of anything.

maybe you have super hearing


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14226085*
> the loudest things should either be your pump and then the case fans
> 
> if you're hearing periodic "quishhh" sounds it's just air escaping out of the radiator nooks
> 
> other than that all my builds have been silent. you may get some noise around obstacles like odd reservoir paths but other than that I can't think of anything.
> 
> maybe you have super hearing


Hmm... Well I'm leak testing right now, and at times it sounds like I have a little waterfall fountain running in my rig.....


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14226107*
> Hmm... Well I'm leak testing right now, and at times it sounds like I have a little waterfall fountain running in my rig.....


normal. make sure your pumps aren't strapped down in a odd manner. sometimes that can make them behave out of spec and make noises. don't compress the pump housing or body.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14226159*
> normal. make sure your pumps aren't strapped down in a odd manner. sometimes that can make them behave out of spec and make noises. don't compress the pump housing or body.


My pump is housed in this


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14226213*
> My pump is housed in this


hmm. was hopeing you wouldn't say you had a liang ddc. those pumps always caused me lots of trouble and that's what I was thinking of when replying /\

you have to pamper those things to make sure they are not wedged or compressed to bad or else they will squeal and tick


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14226273*
> hmm. was hopeing you wouldn't say you had a liang ddc. those pumps always caused me lots of trouble and that's what I was thinking of when replying /\
> 
> you have to pamper those things to make sure they are not wedged or compressed to bad or else they will squeal and tick


Well, the pump was whiny at first, but it's quieted down now... It's just the water noise... It will be quiet for a little bit, and then I can hear rushing water for a bit, and then it quiets back down for a bit, and repeats...


----------



## Opp47

hey guys.. check out my two system worklog.. comments appreciated
















*BLACK* *RAMPAGE*


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14226397*
> Well, the pump was whiny at first, but it's quieted down now... It's just the water noise... It will be quiet for a little bit, and then I can hear rushing water for a bit, and then it quiets back down for a bit, and repeats...


make sure your loop is full and not partially filed sometimes pumps will suck in air and make noises. other than that I can't think of much else.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14226415*
> make sure your loop is full and not partially filed sometimes pumps will suck in air and make noises. other than that I can't think of much else.


ya i made the same mistake on my first system.. the papers that come with the pump actually say that you will cause immediate damage if you dont prime the pump before starting it..


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;14226453*
> ya i made the same mistake on my first system.. the papers that come with the pump actually say that you will cause immediate damage if you dont prime the pump before starting it..


what pumps are you using in your new build?


----------



## Opp47

swiftechs


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14226415*
> make sure your loop is full and not partially filed sometimes pumps will suck in air and make noises. other than that I can't think of much else.


I don't know how to get it any fuller. My res is pretty much full with the pump running.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14226908*
> I don't know how to get it any fuller. My res is pretty much full with the pump running.


try holding the pump lower than all other components.. see if ant air bubbles come up..


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14226397*
> Well, the pump was whiny at first, but it's quieted down now... It's just the water noise... It will be quiet for a little bit, and then I can hear rushing water for a bit, and then it quiets back down for a bit, and repeats...


It's probably just air bubbles escaping being the radiator and blocks being sucked through the pump. I would hear it too for the first few days after filling the loop. I have an old generic 300w psu that I use for running just the pumps for filling and bleeding. I would alternate on and off periodically(on for two hours, off for half an hour) to let the air bubbles all settle. Then when it's off I would tilt the case around a bit to loosen them up, then restart the pump. Worked out pretty well to get it bled 95% of the way, the rest just seems to gradually happen over time.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14226213*
> My pump is housed in this


Does it matter which direction the pump is facing? Because when I installed my 2 mcp350's into an EK dual top, it specifically said in the instructions not to mount the pump with the base of the pump facing up, which is how the pumps are sitting in that bay res
http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842522.pdf

EDIT: sorry for double post


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;14227536*
> Does it matter which direction the pump is facing? Because when I installed my 2 mcp350's into an EK dual top, it specifically said in the instructions not to mount the pump with the base of the pump facing up, which is how the pumps are sitting in that bay res
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842522.pdf
> 
> EDIT: sorry for double post


there have been posts and discussions about that issue. I was thinking just turn it upside down or just not buy it in the first place? makes sense.


----------



## morencyam

Yeah, I can understand why it could cause a problem. Air bubbles could rise up into the impeller housing and cause all kinds of mischief. I would try turning it upside down then turning the pumps on and see if your noises go away. At least until you have all the bubbles bled out anyway. Looking at the pictures, it doesn't look like running it upside down would cause any flow issues.


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;14227978*
> Yeah, I can understand why it could cause a problem. Air bubbles could rise up into the impeller housing and cause all kinds of mischief. I would try turning it upside down then turning the pumps on and see if your noises go away. At least until you have all the bubbles bled out anyway. Looking at the pictures, it doesn't look like running it upside down would cause any flow issues.


well the fillports would be facing down and also the mounting screws on the side are not upside-down compatible -- at least it looks like

have to wonder what koolance was thinking on this one hmm


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Its been a while since my last post, I'm running dual loops now so I'd thought I'd share some pics. I wedged in my spare RX360 in the roof just for the GPU's and NF200 chip. The CPU, mosfets and Ram are on a EK quad and RX240 radiator. Overkill for sure but hey it's OCN right?







I couldn't ask for better cooling performance.

I think I maybe just about done with this build. Bring on BF3!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Very cool. But are you going to change out to a single color hose setup? Or are you planning on running two different colors to show the separated loops?









I might run dual loops but my MoBo would get it's own loop instead of the CPU or the GPU. Since the average temp on air is 50c and max temp is at 60c which seems to be a fluctuating maximum. My NB has been as hot as 58c.









~Ceadder


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Very cool. But are you going to change out to a single color hose setup? Or are you planning on running two different colors to show the separated loops?









I might run dual loops but my MoBo would get it's own loop instead of the CPU or the GPU. Since the average temp on air is 50c and max temp is at 60c which seems to be a fluctuating maximum. My NB has been as hot as 58c.









~Ceadder










The tubing in it is left over from previous builds, its all I have atm, at $20 per meter here in NZ its gonna have to do. I'm at the stage for this build now that the tubing colors don't bother me and I'm just glad thew builds complete (for now). I would have preferred all black tubing but the pieces I have left are too short


----------



## Ceadderman

Yikes $20/m is a tad bit too much. If it cost me that much I would have stuck with the H50 and sold my MoBo.









I lucked out and got mine free of charge for having to put up with a return and reship of a pick error when I got my block. I think they would have let me keep the squaretop block that I was sent but my fittings weren't very new looking. Some even had sharpie touchup done to the inner portion. I think they'd been returned to the place I got mine from and had passed cursory inspection so they got sent to me where they didn't pass muster.

Not only did I get 4ft of PrimoChill White for free, but they opened the replacement block and swapped out the shiny nickel mounting kit for the Black Nickel kit. Those two changes and free shipping easily cost them more than what it would have to just let me keep the Squaretop which cost $20 more than what I paid for the Classified Block.









4ft is just one loop but it's enough for now til I get my MoBo block which I'll have to buy from AquaTuning since EK has that damn shiny nickel block which I do not want. Too bad they only made the Formula block to be Shiny Nickel base. It's gonna cost me more to go with the Liquid Extacy copper bottom unit.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It all started with an H50.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ended with this....still got to put 2x6970 with full cover blocks in yet with a 2nd pump....plus plenty of dinoc!!


----------



## rheicel

Guys please follow my build on SFF with watecooling here

Thanks!


----------



## nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;14232743*
> The tubing in it is left over from previous builds, its all I have atm, at $20 per meter here in NZ its gonna have to do.


I know what you mean









Here's to hoping another retailer picks their balls up from the ground and gives Computer Lounge some god dam competition!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joaobezerranetojbn;14224748*
> My first WC
> 
> http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/3036/dscn0435g.jpg
> 
> http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/1958/dscn0482a.jpg
> 
> http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6973/dscn0491ur.jpg
> 
> http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3920/dscn0481q.jpg


looks great man , i can't wait till my parts arrive. what pc case is that behind your rig right on the floor.


----------



## kevink82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14233147*
> I know what you mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's to hoping another retailer picks their balls up from the ground and gives Computer Lounge some god dam competition!


Wow is it still computer lounge that do water cooling still? I left nz for 6 years i would though some other retailer do it by now.... Btw why dont you gather a few ppl and order online? Seeing that bulk order or large quantity (most will change tubings every half year) would save you down the road rather than let computer lounge earn too much.

When i was there i always feel like they over charged quite a bit...


----------



## Khalam

hey all, this build is not finished yet but I thought ill share the latest photos with you, all input is welcome as its my first water build and im sure ive missed something or could do something better


----------



## Tex1954

All these cool systems, truly computer art!


----------



## Stizuner

I redid my loop and removed 4 feet of hose (not really, but close)

Here is the before and after: (i need to take a better picture and will tonight)

before:









after:


----------



## Khalam

thx for that one bro perfectly shows how a bit less tubing makes a rig look amazing and clean


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;14233792*
> hey all, this build is not finished yet but I thought ill share the latest photos with you, all input is welcome as its my first water build and im sure ive missed something or could do something better


You have a lot of tubing, do you have two loops ??? What is your reservoir? Koolance Rp?


----------



## Khalam

ay its a Koolance dual bay res and yes two loops, one for gpus one for the cpu


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;14235001*
> ay its a Koolance dual bay res and yes two loops, one for gpus one for the cpu


I recommend doing one loop with those 2 pumps, you will have pump redundancy and better temps with MUCH LESS tubing . You should use a jumper, no need for the 180' link from coolance, you can use normal barbs or fittings with tubing. But I assure you it will be much better on the performance side and much cleaner look inside your case. You will remove 2-3 feet of tubing. When playing game, you'll have 2 Radiators to cool your GPUs ...many benefits to run your loop like I said.







You should do it.

Res/Pump (p2 out)---360 Rad---CPU Block---Dual GPU Block--240Rad---Back to Res (p1 in)

(This is my source http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/25/koolance-rp-402x2-rp-452x2/)


----------



## Khalam

shame nobody posted that a few days ago when I was getting the rest of my stuff if you say it will make a big difference ill try ordering one monday but that will leave me with the build unfinished till thursday probably


----------



## KaRLiToS

If you're not sure yet Go in this thread and ask it to people, even Martin from martin's LiquidLabs will help you, I strongly recommend it to you, I will have this reservoir in a week with Two MCP655s Pumps and I'll do exactly what I told you









Martin's Koolance RP-402X2 & RP-452X2 Drivebay Pump (Living Review ) VIDEO 

If you need the 180' connector, go here http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...p?cPath=62_101

Get the one for your Rseervoir/Pump Combo, it will match for any revision

Good Luck my friend and I want some feedback on what you will do









PS: Have you had any trouble beedling your loops?


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*





I see you took out the plastic start button panel. It's amazing how much this case costs then you take the button out and find it's super cheap plastic. Anyway, what I'm trying to say is get a Bulgin 22mm blue ring or blue dot switch for that port. You'll have to drill it out a little bit but they look very good in that location. I did that to mine a long time ago. Everything else looks super nice maybe tidy the cables up a bit for airflow.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Ended with this....still got to put 2x6970 with full cover blocks in yet with a 2nd pump....plus plenty of dinoc!!


did you make those tubing guides?

---

looks good everybody else use some zip ties for c- sake


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I made them,10 minutes with Senor Dremel and all done


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stizuner*


I redid my loop and removed 4 feet of hose (not really, but close)

Here is the before and after: (i need to take a better picture and will tonight)

before:
_*snip*_

after:







<---










Is it me or is the fwd line on the T fitting looking a bit torqued and collapsed? Is that just a drainage tube?









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

Koolance did it again folks...a new promising Reservoir is out now, just check the pics


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks good. Not sure about the gaps in the rear panel though. What are those for? Cable gaps?









~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Looks good. Not sure about the gaps in the rear panel though. What are those for? Cable gaps?









~Ceadder










Yes


----------



## superhead91

That's the res I got. I'll post pics in a few minutes.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


Yes


I could see the one in the middle since the two LED fitments are in the middle and have to be accessed. The other two seem a bit pointless to me.










~Ceadder


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14235908*
> Koolance did it again folks...a new promising Reservoir is out now, just check the pics
> -snip-


I'd be worried about the orientation of the pumps. When I install my mcp350's in a dual ek top it said not to have the base of the pump facing up, which it is on that res

Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


----------



## superhead91

Finally got my loop up and running. Feel free to make any suggestions. I know the cables aren't pretty. Sleeving and reorganization is my next project. And Yes I'm aware I only have 2 fans on the bottom of my rad. They were all I had at the moment and I'm waiting to get my Gentle Typhoons from the OCN group buy.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stizuner;14234466*
> I redid my loop and removed 4 feet of hose (not really, but close)
> 
> Here is the before and after: (i need to take a better picture and will tonight)
> 
> before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after:


Nice improvement ,good to see You took my advice


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14234781*
> You have a lot of tubing, do you have two loops ??? What is your reservoir? Koolance Rp?


The reddest cables I ever seen. Nice colors but tubbing could be shorter.


----------



## Zaucher

Thats it!!


----------



## Stizuner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14235864*
> Is it me or is the fwd line on the T fitting looking a bit torqued and collapsed? Is that just a drainage tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Drain line. Couldn't hide it without ending up with a twist.


----------



## Armegadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zaucher;14237144*
> thats it!!


how!?


----------



## Ceadderman

Dual or triple pump system most likely.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;14233637*
> Wow is it still computer lounge that do water cooling still? I left nz for 6 years i would though some other retailer do it by now.... Btw why dont you gather a few ppl and order online? Seeing that bulk order or large quantity (most will change tubings every half year) would save you down the road rather than let computer lounge earn too much.
> 
> When i was there i always feel like they over charged quite a bit...


No doubt they over charge, they recon its because they are buying their stock from Australia (gammods i believe) and they are putting huge price tags on their products for CL.

Playtech is sort of a competetor, they asked me what i would like them to see in stock, so i wrote a huge email and then never got a reply







. They are doing a "fire sale" atm which is just CPU block brackets and 3870 full cover blocks







(although i picked up a whole heap of BP fittings for $8 a pair)

Anyway, i got all my parts from PPC's, my parents were over their for a road trip so i got them to pick up all the gear.....not to sure how they will explain to customs what the Frozen Q reservoir is


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14238063*
> my parents were over their for a road trip so i got them to pick up all the gear.....not to sure how they will explain to customs what the Frozen Q reservoir is


I want your parents


----------



## nzftw

Well i ordered 3m of Blue primochill tubing....probably wont need that much.

Maybe ill have some left over if you want to go with black+blue/White+blue....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14238063*
> 
> Anyway, i got all my parts from PPC's, my parents were over their for a road trip so i got them to pick up all the gear.....*not to sure how they will explain to customs what the Frozen Q reservoir is*


Well they could always say that it's a Bong and only used for medicinal purposes.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14238040*
> Dual or triple pump system most likely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Bit more than that







http://www.overclock.net/13892018-post11649.html


----------



## Jan Kyster

Finally (re-) done! Again!









Backside while running last leaktest...









Front...









And now ready for duty... at last...









And now I see the horrible fingerprints/dirt


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice build man, nice concept.
The pedestal is very useful and clean, good job


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14238196*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well i ordered 3m of Blue primochill tubing....probably wont need that much.
> 
> Maybe ill have some left over if you want to go with black+blue/White+blue....


Oh that sounds mint, I have 8 feet of primochill red I cant use because the overseas vendor sent me the wrong dam size. I have 1/2ID 3/4OD comp fittings but they send me 3/8 ID 5/8 OD....

If your fittings are 3/8 I am more than happy to give u it. You may want blue/red . Red/blue.. lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;14238361*
> Bit more than that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/13892018-post11649.html


At some point there comes a time where someone must hold an intervention and get that addict into rehab. XSPC x20 750 dual bay is 750 lph. EK 4.0 is 800. I certainly doubt that it would take more than a handful of the 4.0s' to average ~1200 lph.

18 pumps for "I have 2x Hardwarelabs 360er Radis + 1x TC 120er" is a waste imho. Hell a single AC VPP655 Single Edition pump is rated at 1500 lph. If that system is honestly running that many pumps and only averaging less than 1200 lph, it might be better(also cheaper?) to find and deal with the choke points in the lines.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14238063*
> No doubt they over charge, they recon its because they are buying their stock from Australia (gammods i believe) and they are putting huge price tags on their products for CL.
> 
> Playtech is sort of a competetor, they asked me what i would like them to see in stock, so i wrote a huge email and then never got a reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They are doing a "fire sale" atm which is just CPU block brackets and 3870 full cover blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (although i picked up a whole heap of BP fittings for $8 a pair)
> 
> Anyway, i got all my parts from PPC's, my parents were over their for a road trip so i got them to pick up all the gear.....not to sure how they will explain to customs what the Frozen Q reservoir is


My first res from Alex was lost in the mail and I suspect that customs totally flipped out when they saw it and tried to destroy it haha. Probably not every day you get a T-Virus coming through customs! Had to get him to send me another one which thankfully did arrive


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14238728*
> XSPC x20 750 dual bay is 750 lph.


actually in real world tests it's someplace around 500

----

for some reason on that 16 pump setup I think we are seeing a /10 multiplier somehow so maybe it's 10k lph in our estimation

lol









or maybe there's just a *marginal return on extra pumps*
Quote:


>


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jan Kyster;14238397*
> Front...


btw did you screw the case and the radiator housing to each other so it's one big piece?


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14236091*
> I could see the one in the middle since the two LED fitments are in the middle and have to be accessed. The other two seem a bit pointless to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


This should help:









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;14236122*
> I'd be worried about the orientation of the pumps. When I install my mcp350's in a dual ek top it said not to have the base of the pump facing up, which it is on that res
> 
> Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


That is because the intake on the EK is on top. They don't want you to starve the pump because you mounted it upside down. You could still mount it upside down if you mount it way below your res so the water pressure can reach the impeller but at that point why not mount it right side up.

The Koolance res should be fine if you keep your computer on a level surface with the res full.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14238728*
> At some point there comes a time where someone must hold an intervention and get that addict into rehab. XSPC x20 750 dual bay is 750 lph. EK 4.0 is 800. I certainly doubt that it would take more than a handful of the 4.0s' to average ~1200 lph.
> 
> 18 pumps for "I have 2x Hardwarelabs 360er Radis + 1x TC 120er" is a waste imho. Hell a single AC VPP655 Single Edition pump is rated at 1500 lph. If that system is honestly running that many pumps and only averaging less than 1200 lph, it might be better(also cheaper?) to find and deal with the choke points in the lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


What?! THIS IS OCN!!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14240092*
> What?! THIS IS OCN!!


but with that amount of radiator it will barely cool the pump heat dump to an enthusiast level. I'll settle for a 2c water/air delta over that absurd flowrate.


----------



## Opp47

hey check out this little tip my buddy showed me for sleeving fan cables without removing the pins..

you stack them on top of each other.. like so VVV


----------



## Ceadderman

All I'm sayin is when you have 18 pumps and they're all rated at 1500 lph and you're only seeing ~1200 lph? There is a massive choke point curtailing flow. You should see a minimum of 2000 lph figuring each pump over the 1st one should contribute more than 10% increase in flow. And that's a conservatively rough estimate.










If people are happy with that and they are relatively certain that all fittings aren't reducing the rate of flow then I guess it's worth that.

But to me I can't see it. Maybe I'm oversimplifying things since I'm a h2o n00b, I just can't see running that many at that cost and not see at least the rated flow rate multiplied.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fenderlove0`

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stizuner;14234466*
> I redid my loop and removed 4 feet of hose (not really, but close)
> 
> Here is the before and after: (i need to take a better picture and will tonight)
> 
> before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after:


I personally think the before looks better...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fenderlove0`;14241950*
> I personally think the before looks better...


I don't , its because of the different picture perspective and lightning, the "After" is much cleaner and looks well organized


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14241990*
> I don't , its because of the different picture perspective and lightning, the "After" is much cleaner and looks well organized


And the after is better management of tubing and the before was wasting 2ft+ of tubing and flow

After looks WAY better IMO ... nice work


----------



## musashin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14241889*
> All I'm sayin is when you have 18 pumps and they're all rated at 1500 lph and you're only seeing ~1200 lph? There is a massive choke point curtailing flow. You should see a minimum of 2000 lph figuring each pump over the 1st one should contribute more than 10% increase in flow. And that's a conservatively rough estimate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If people are happy with that and they are relatively certain that all fittings aren't reducing the rate of flow then I guess it's worth that.
> 
> But to me I can't see it. Maybe I'm oversimplifying things since I'm a h2o n00b, I just can't see running that many at that cost and not see at least the rated flow rate multiplied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Unfortunately it doesn't quite work that way. Essentially, the flow rate can only be as high as a single pump is rated, and redundant pumps simply bring actual flow closer to the maximum and compensate for restrictions. It works like this when the pumps are in serial like you see. If the pumps are in parallel, I expect the flow would be increased.


----------



## owikh84




----------



## Stizuner

Soooo clean!


----------



## bundymania

Yeah, very nice Setup, congratz !


----------



## SQLinsert

owikh84 here's some thoughts

* intake fans remove the vendor stickers
* bottom radiator fans, paint the heads of the fan screws
* clean up the vga power witing a bit with some ties


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14236462*
> Finally got my loop up and running. Feel free to make any suggestions. I know the cables aren't pretty. Sleeving and reorganization is my next project. And Yes I'm aware I only have 2 fans on the bottom of my rad. They were all I had at the moment and I'm waiting to get my Gentle Typhoons from the OCN group buy.


Nice build, I love my Phenom II X6.


----------



## RushMore1205

i think all these huge cases that are around now, are kind of taking away from being a creative

now you have so much space its just about buying the huge things

what happen to having copact and fitting huge in it, thats where the real art is at


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14248247*
> i think all these huge cases that are around now, are kind of taking away from being a creative
> 
> now you have so much space its just about buying the huge things
> 
> what happen to having copact and fitting huge in it, thats where the real art is at


CM scout with a 360 rad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14248247*
> i think all these huge cases that are around now, are kind of taking away from being a creative
> 
> now you have so much space its just about buying the huge things
> 
> what happen to having copact and fitting huge in it, thats where the real art is at


I agree with you Mate. I remember when the 932 was first introduced and was one of the few cases where the manufacturer gave some honest thought to water cooling. Although it wasn't a very good thought for the top. Water bays always mount to the bottom for a proper setup(hint *leaks* hint) to limit possible damage. Unless Opticals and Fan Contollers have pass throughs that I don't know about I think that didn't dawn on them. Still it was an effort.

Now people are just buying bigger and running their main lines behind the MoBo. Which I can do too since I've got a little over 3/4 of an inch space between the tray and the door. That takes a bit of modification and some imagination though. But since I'm modding my case I don't have to do much in the way of modification as though it was a single platform.









My Case is gonna cost me as much as a Mountain Mods case I think.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Jan Kyster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14239463*
> ...btw did you screw the case and the radiator housing to each other so it's one big piece?


Yes, I did. "Upgraded" threads used for feets from M3 to M4 thread:









Then modified some old fitting-extenders to new spacers.









New layout, one of the spacers is used for wiring up/down:









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;14248562*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CM scout with a 360 rad.


Nice black look!








But for the love of God, paint that ugly Cross-Fire bridge black!


----------



## owikh84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stizuner;14245602*
> Soooo clean!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14246331*
> Yeah, very nice Setup, congratz !


thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14247049*
> owikh84 here's some thoughts
> 
> * intake fans remove the vendor stickers
> * bottom radiator fans, paint the heads of the fan screws
> * clean up the vga power witing a bit with some ties


okay i will take the suggestions when moving to MIVE-Z later.
thanks!


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14248247*
> i think all these huge cases that are around now, are kind of taking away from being a creative
> 
> now you have so much space its just about buying the huge things
> 
> what happen to having copact and fitting huge in it, thats where the real art is at


Huge case or not, it wasn't easy getting all the tubing to work in my 932. The only way I could get my tubing from the back of my res to the rad was to put the res in the lowest drive bay, and now I can't put my DVD drive in. Some 45 or 90 degree fittings might've solved the problem, but I just wanted to get my loop running, and they're so expensive...


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14248247*
> i think all these huge cases that are around now, are kind of taking away from being a creative
> 
> now you have so much space its just about buying the huge things
> 
> what happen to having copact and fitting huge in it, thats where the real art is at




















How's this for stuffing a small case to the brim, RX120, 240, and 360 everything internal.

edit: FYI, the side panel is on in the second pic.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jan Kyster;14238397*
> Finally (re-) done! Again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backside while running last leaktest...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for duty... at last...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now I see the horrible fingerprints/dirt


Do you have like a build log of the pedestal.
I've been planning on building one to save money on buying a new case*Corsair 800D.


----------



## Khalam

ok guys its time im ready to fill my loop, or rather will be 2m when I get my last bits as I mentioned before its my first water loop and ive got no idea how to do the last few things: how to get the tubing on the compressions without needing to put my shoulder to it... how to best leak proof the build and prepare for leak testing? how to tighten the compressions enough and not damage them and how far is enough? Whats the easiest way of filling that 452x2 res of mine(dual loop or single loop)? Sorry for all the questions but its my first build and I dont want to screw it up


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14248247*
> i think all these huge cases that are around now, are kind of taking away from being a creative
> 
> now you have so much space its just about buying the huge things
> 
> what happen to having copact and fitting huge in it, thats where the real art is at


You do speak some truth, that's why I got rid of my MM (see below







)
Quote:


>


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stizuner;14234466*
> I redid my loop and removed 4 feet of hose (not really, but close)
> 
> Here is the before and after: (i need to take a better picture and will tonight)
> 
> before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after:


What a dramatic improvement. Awesome!


----------



## Jan Kyster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral;14250709*
> Do you have like a build log of the pedestal.
> I've been planning on building one to save money on buying a new case*Corsair 800D.


There's a bunch of pics here http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z15/subject_rod/5970/?albumview=slideshow

Or if you like, here's a collection of shots taken during the build (90MB) http://www.mediafire.com/?ubxj49iaz35p3jn

A warning though! MDF will "work" or move, there's now a fine crack between the top and sides.








So either make a groove before gluing together or make the seam inside the box...

If your time is worth _anything_, then don't do it! My box has the value of some $600 in pure working time...









Btw. if you want the (rather crude) working drawings, I can scan them for you tomorrow - but _must_ go to sleep now...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14250081*
> Huge case or not, it wasn't easy getting all the tubing to work in my 932. The only way I could get my tubing from the back of my res to the rad was to put the res in the lowest drive bay, and now I can't put my DVD drive in. Some 45 or 90 degree fittings might've solved the problem, but I just wanted to get my loop running, and they're so expensive...


Make the hoses to your Res a little longer so you can slide it out far enough to fill recap and slide it back in. That's how I've got to do mine because I don't have the fillport(not that I'd be able to use one) to mount up top. Nor do I have the T fitting and 3 extra compressions or a Q and 4 of them.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Just relocated the pump to the bottom:


----------



## KaRLiToS

Wermad, are you parallel on the GPU blocks?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14252751*
> Wermad, are you parallel on the GPU blocks?


Yes, they only come in parallel.


----------



## KaRLiToS

So you pump go to your bottom 480 Rad---> Then Parallel GPU--->Top 480 Rad--->CPu Block--->Back to Res

Thx


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14252866*
> So you pump go to your bottom 480 Rad---> Then Parallel GPU--->Top 480 Rad--->CPu Block--->Back to Res
> 
> Thx


----------



## RushMore1205

wermad i highly remomend you getttin another pump, maybe put one after res and before like i did in my rig, it inproves the flow like crazy and most importantly lowered my temps by 5c which is pretty good in my book

i mean im sure your temps are great anyway since all those rads, but yyou seem to be like me in pursuit of every single degree


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14253124*
> wermad i highly remomend you getttin another pump, maybe put one after res and before like i did in my rig, it inproves the flow like crazy and most importantly lowered my temps by 5c which is pretty good in my book
> 
> i mean im sure your temps are great anyway since all those rads, but yyou seem to be like me in pursuit of every single degree


cpu doesn't go beyond 60-65°c (2500k @4.8) at load, all three 6950/70s max out @ 40-45°c. Pump is doing fine atm, even if I cut power down, say to 7v, temps only go up a little bit.


----------



## RushMore1205

Nice, those are great temps


----------



## Petrol

Added a NB block to my sig rig yesterday...


























The rad and res are currently just sitting haphazardly on top of the case, waiting for the weekend during which I will finally make an ornate wooden box for them to fit into.

ps. in case anyone is wondering, the random hose clamp is there to keep the hose round since I don't have any of those spring-like things


----------



## DannyB0y

Here's mine.. My first time WCing..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SQLinsert

looks good DannyB0y. you may be able to clean up some of that tubing mess adding a VC waterblock. you have enough cooling potential

great job clean looking I like


----------



## DannyB0y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14261731*
> looks good DannyB0y. you may be able to clean up some of that tubing mess adding a VC waterblock. you have enough cooling potential
> 
> great job clean looking I like


Thanks. I appreciate it









I'm planning on adding a gpu loop as soon as the next generation of gpus comes out by the end of this year or early next year.

After looking at my pics I've decided to remove the blue coils around my tubes.. looks a little too cramped with them on :/


----------



## Ceadderman

Well if you're rolling the Feser or the PrimoChill tubing you shouldn't need them anyway.










~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Sauce Boss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zhevra;7303895*
> Mother of god...


I said these exact words followed by "that's allot of fans..."


----------



## Khalam

lads ive got a silly question but where in my koolance 452x2 res do i place the silver coil and how?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


lads ive got a silly question but where in my koolance 452x2 res do i place the silver coil and how?


Just drop inside where the liquid goes. I cut my silver strip into two pieces and coiled them, just dropped them in my tube res.


----------



## RushMore1205

dam i cant wait to get more coolant in the mail, and the build will finaly be finished


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


dam i cant wait to get more coolant in the mail, and the build *maybe* finished.


Fixed


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Fixed










no man i have 2 other cases sitting here waiting to get started on but i just cant let this one go


----------



## Ceadderman

That's why you don't run colored coolant and run Distilled instead.









I've got two jugs of Distilled sitting under the desk waiting for the rest of my kit to get here which I've already paid for just need to receive. And my Killcoil is in the drawer as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

yeah but i love feser coolan i have experienced slightly lower temps with it, plus my res is kind of a big eye piece in my rig so it would look weird with just plain liquid


----------



## dhruvdas2000

I love the red madness!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


yeah but i love feser coolan i have experienced slightly lower temps with it, plus my res is kind of a big eye piece in my rig so it would look weird with just plain liquid


Couple plugs with Red LEDs' will take care of that.









~Ceadder


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


dam i cant wait to get more coolant in the mail, and the build will finaly be finished











very nice, i had an antec 1200 at one point (it was my first watercooled rig, link in my sig) and damn you managed to get a lot in there lol


----------



## Khalam

Ok guys first major problem, when.i turn the psu on you can hear a screeching sound From the right side pump and the water doesnt get sucked out of the res....im after seting eferything up and bridging the psu... any idea what might be wrong?


----------



## Khalam

Ok guys first major problem, when.i turn the psu on you can hear a screeching sound From the right side pump and the water doesnt get sucked out of the res....im after seting eferything up and bridging the psu... any idea what might be wrong?


----------



## coolhandluke41

fill up your res all the way,close inlets ,tip your case on it's back ..your pumps are full of air ,let the water pressure do it's thing (don't run your pump dry)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7g3R...embedded#at=21


----------



## RushMore1205

I think his pump is just bad now, how old is it


----------



## Khalam

Brand new build bro. the res is after filling up a few times and now the water seems to be circling around but no that much of it in the tubes.... the ress is full tough and wont empty up any more. no leaks yet


----------



## Khalam

Is it normal im getting condensation on the inside side of the acrylic?


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


Is it normal im getting condensation on the inside side of the acrylic?


Did you run your pump dry?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


Is it normal im getting condensation on the inside side of the acrylic?


yes bro..air bubbles are popping..why don't you open up your own thread ?
(I'm not trying to be rude )


----------



## Khalam

Sorry for that, its 7in the morning here ive been up 25h atmmucg?nd just not thinking straight anymore.... ive got my project elysium thread.... So its normal and i didnt screw up too nu


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *svisse*


@CH4PZ
Thanks alot. I took some time to complete the build and "my plan" had to be changed a couple of times because stuff didnt fit the way i had intended. 
I followed the the saying: "Buy, then try" 

@Tex
The build comprises:

Zotac H55-ITX Mini-ITX
Corsair 4GB (2x2048MB) 1333MHz XMS3-10600
Intel Core i5 760, 2.8GHz
Lian Li PC-Q08B mini-ITX Svart
Corsair VX 550W 80+
XFX Radeon HD 6870
Corsair force 120 SSD
3 x Samsung F3 1 TB drives

Laing DDC-pump 12V DDC-1Plus with Phobya Laing DDC top
Watercool HK CPU LGA1156 Rev. 3.0 LT - White
EK Water Blocks EK-FC6870 fullcover block
MagiCool SLIM SINGLE 140 MC Radiator
XSPC RS240 BLACK Dual Radiator
Swiftech MCRES-Micro AGB
Primochill tubing PrimoFlex Pro 16/13 (7/16"ID) white 2 m
Phobya assorted compression fittings
Some sleeve
3 st Scythe Slip Stream Slim 1600rpm fans
one 140 mm fan

heres some more pics:









Its a PITA to remove the GPU since it has to be removed from the back and not from the front. After the gpu is released from the mboard pci-e port locking mechanism the backside can be pulled of. Well its really a PITA to do anything in the case now that i think of it.

This time i used the kitchen knife


----------



## XiDillon

Figured Id show off what im working on. It my first step into water cooling and im pretty much blowing big money on it along with new parts. Dont worry about the ram block bottlenecking cuz im running a bypass around them so theyll only get half pressure as the rest of the blocks do.


----------



## catcherintherye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;14265431*
> Ok guys first major problem, when.i turn the psu on you can hear a screeching sound From the right side pump and the water doesnt get sucked out of the res....im after seting eferything up and bridging the psu... any idea what might be wrong?


There has to be no air in the tubing between the pump and the res. Tilt your case so that you know for sure that the water from the res is going into the pump, and that it's full of water.


----------



## broke

this is a decent picture of my water set up


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;14265431*
> Ok guys first major problem, when.i turn the psu on you can hear a screeching sound From the right side pump and the water doesnt get sucked out of the res....im after seting eferything up and bridging the psu... any idea what might be wrong?


Try stopping the pumps and starting back up again. I do this initially to push the water through. If the pump runs out of water, it will just spin and the blades will not catch the water. By stopping it and starting it up again, I'm able to move water through the loop faster. I have a DDC btw.


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broke;14266416*
> this is a decent picture of my water set up


what are your core/mobo temps like at that speed?

btw your vc wiring looks nice I wish more manuf. would put the power cables coming off the rear instead of the 180 deg.


----------



## broke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14266692*
> what are your core/mobo temps like at that speed?
> 
> btw your vc wiring looks nice I wish more manuf. would put the power cables coming off the rear instead of the 180 deg.


idle at the moment im sitting on 39C at full load it's 58C. ambient is 25C here today.

yeah graphics cards are 2 different brands, shame but the 2nd was just too cheap to pass up.


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broke;14266711*
> idle at the moment im sitting on 39C at full load it's 58C. ambient is 25C here today.


nice to know the newer intel chips have improved tdp. those are very good temps for your OC at that ambient. hats off to intel.


----------



## Khalam

everything is setup, no leaks after 6h, the res is nearly full, not even half an inch left to the top and no more water going in to it, but ive noticed low pressure in the tubes and.. ive decided to investigate.... one of the pumps works grand, you can see the water running through its loop, but the other one just makes a humming noise and produces barely any flow....so let me guess ive got a dead pump?its gone be a few weeks before ill get an rma;( is there any way i can transform this into a single loop with one pump? is it gone be enough for 2x rx360 rads with a cpu block and two gpu blocks? and well... both loops are full of water though and since this was my first wc build im how do I say this.... clueless how to get the water out so I can take it apart and try to make a single loop out of it... and if this wasnt enough ive got maybe 12" of tubing left so ill have to use what ive got in the build already I will appreciate all input and help guys


----------



## Freakn

I'm running a single pump with a 2 360's, a 120, CPU block and dual GPU blocks and works fine "For Me"


----------



## DragonCypher

+1 to Freakn

I have the 360/240, CPU and 2x GPU's all on 1 crappy XSPC pump.
Higher flow is always better, but unless you go way overboard with restrictive blocks everywhere most pumps these days should work quite well.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14263527*
> dam i cant wait to get more coolant in the mail, and the build will finaly be finished


What is this nonsense of "finishing" sexy red?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14265751*
> yes bro..air bubbles are popping..why don't you open up your own thread ?
> (I'm not trying to be rude )


I am ok with people asking for help with things in this thread, it is part of why I created the thread


----------



## Retrolock

Will be adding a 240 rad and gpu water block later. Might go with xspc razor


----------



## Bradford1040

ON the D5 pump going through cpu 240/240/120 (2)gpu how much flow should I see in the res? I also would like to know if the pump impeller ever goes bad? I just don't feel as if I am getting the right flow. Temps on my buddies system are lower than mine by far and we have the same stuff almost just different gpu blocks, I have full and he has mcw80's but his temps are 10c lower than mine under load?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


ON the D5 pump going through cpu 240/240/120 (2)gpu how much flow should I see in the res? I also would like to know if the pump impeller ever goes bad? I just don't feel as if I am getting the right flow. Temps on my buddies system are lower than mine by far and we have the same stuff almost just different gpu blocks, I have full and he has mcw80's but his temps are 10c lower than mine under load?


Some blocks have different flow rates than others. The only way to truly know if your flow is irregular is to swap out your blocks for his. If you do that and your temps don't reflect it then there may indeed be a problem with your pump.

This of course isn't taking into account the length of hoses nor the angle through which the flow moves through. More 90s' in your system than his? vice versa? Then of course we also have difference in ambients. One house could be like mine with trees on all 4 sides while the other could see sunlight more time over the day affecting ambients.









~Ceadder


----------



## thrasherht

I just changed out my fans on my radiator. I got some xigmatek fans and I switch my radiator to intake from the top of the case now, dropped my temps probably a good 5c or so. I also put two of the old rasa stock fans on top to do push pull on two of the fans.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Thrasher... just a silly question on my part. Why have the fan controller on the "inside" of the case? Personal preference? Practicality?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Thrasher... just a silly question on my part. Why have the fan controller on the "inside" of the case? Personal preference? Practicality?


actually the fan controller on the inside is just because I couldn't find enough of the fan splitter things to hook everything up between the motherboard and the phantoms fan controller. Plus it is the only thing I trust plugging in the delta fan that came from my sisters old Dell desktop. I don't want to fry anything.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


actually the fan controller on the inside is just because I couldn't find enough of the fan splitter things to hook everything up between the motherboard and the phantoms fan controller. Plus it is the only thing I trust plugging in the delta fan that came from my sisters old Dell desktop. I don't want to fry anything.


Gotcha... Phantoms have a built in controller or something, right?


----------



## idaWHALE

Yes. 5 fans and light switch

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Mikecdm

My fancy smancy set up







. What used to be a pretty decent looking loop, is no only used to house my a loop for my bench.


----------



## SQLinsert

there needs to be a "rate my tubing" tread geez


----------



## thrasherht

here is my imgur album.
http://imgur.com/a/fa5OT#ureSS


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Mikecdm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SQLinsert*


there needs to be a "rate my tubing" tread geez










I agree, it's terrible. The case has been retired from holding hardware. I use the loop for my benching set up and rather than take the rads out of the case and try to find somewhere to put them, I just ran some longer tubing to the top of the table and left everything inside the case. If I ever decided to run a water cooled daily rig again, I can just add the hardware and redo the tubing.


----------



## CjGemini

Hey guys I just started my first worklog(I hope I did it right) please check it out as I put more into it and tell me what you think.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...polishing.html


----------



## Khalam

boys and girls im back on my rig I had a few adventures yesterday night and today but ive managed to get everything going and thats the most important part currently running a single 6990 before im comfortable with the loop not leaking (im after a good 8h of testing atm and after 3 runs of 3dmark 2011 my vreg temps are at 35C and gpus at 34 and 35cbtw on a stock 2600k im getting 17-20c idle and 40-44 prime95 load


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mikecdm*


My fancy smancy set up







. What used to be a pretty decent looking loop, is no only used to house my a loop for my bench.











you do know that the motherboard goes IN the case, dont you, jks jks


----------



## Glancey

Here's what I'm working on:










Almost finished, should be up and leek testing tonight.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks great. But...

...Why does it look like you've closed your CPU to to the Radiator. You've got two tubes going there one from the FC block and one from the CPU block so they're both going to the Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## whipple16

His loop goes res > CPU > rad > chipset > gpu

I think it's just the black tubing making it hard to see


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Glancey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Looks great. But...

...Why does it look like you've closed your CPU to to the Radiator. You've got two tubes going there one from the FC block and one from the CPU block so they're both going to the Radiator.









~Ceadder











Quote:



Originally Posted by *whipple16*


His loop goes res > CPU > rad > chipset > gpu

I think it's just the black tubing making it hard to see


My loop goes:

Res > Pump > 480 Rad > GPU > GPU > Motherboard > 360 Rad > CPU > Res

It's hard to see but the tubing from the top of the gpu bridge goes directly down in to the motherboard block, the outlet is above the cpu block. I think that's where you got confused









This should clear it up


----------



## Ceadderman

I see it now.









~Ceadder


----------



## AliceInChains

Heres my latest. So you can add me to the gallery.

















Once the whole ek nickel thing gets resolved, Im going full nickel 580 blocks, and an ek nickel hf. I love the look of nickel.


----------



## Boyboyd

Definitely gettig White tubing when i change.

Congratulations on 2m thread views.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

WOOT!!! 2,000,000 views!!!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Everyone to Kevin's house for beer and hamburgers!!!

2,000,000 views!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14286085*
> Definitely gettig White tubing when i change.
> 
> Congratulations on 2m thread views.


Whit looks so SMECSY with Black Compression Fittings.









Too bad nobody makes White ones yet. Would look even better.









Yaaaaaaaay 2 MILLION views!!!









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevink82

So when are we gonna get a chance to see this rig of yours Ceadderman?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;14287342*
> So when are we gonna get a chance to see this rig of yours Ceadderman?


Soon as I get my basic loop installed. You can check out what it looked like before I gave myself a nudge toward custom loop, in my sig. My YouTube link will show my H50 which I don't have anymore. But it gives a good idea what I'm working with for hardware.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14286691*
> updated
> 
> WOOT!!! 2,000,000 views!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14286736*
> Everyone to Kevin's house for beer and hamburgers!!!
> 
> 2,000,000 views!


Just have to make sure he doesn't leave his browser open with OCN on it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;14289305*
> Just have to make sure he doesn't leave his browser open with OCN on it


hey hey hey, that has only happened once... or twice...

it isn't my fault someone saved a screenshot of it and likes to post it back up every now and again.


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14286736*
> Everyone to Kevin's house for beer and hamburgers!!!
> 
> 2,000,000 views!


im in


----------



## pn0yb0i

SigRig


----------



## CH4PZ

2 million views







hats off to kevin for maintaining one of the biggest threads around


----------



## Freakn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


hey hey hey, that has only happened once... or twice...

it isn't my fault someone saved a screenshot of it and likes to post it back up every now and again. 


Was still bloody funny though









Though I haven't seen the shots reposted, just remember the actual event


----------



## pujo

Update: With Swiftech Epsilon 6990 Full Coverage Waterblock.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm kinda glad I went with the 932 over the Cosmos. Cosmos looks like a great Mid Tower and was my first choice but there is just so much more room in a HAF. If I want a silent case I'll just get a kit and insulate my HAF.









Awesome job though for the last 2 submissions.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pn0yb0i*











SigRig


Why are some of the tubes... pink?


----------



## Ceadderman

Old dye that doesn't completely wash out of the tubing.









Most likely ran some form of Red dye. Sorry guys but dye makes me









~Ceadder


----------



## Tex1954

I like a touch of BLUE that comes with the EK Additive.... I use just a smig of it... I tried one of those blue dies once and it coated my silver coil and the inside of my Monsoon... YUKE! Will stick with bare minimum color now... See builds for 3 junker systems by clicking on my name below.... blue everywhere...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated


----------



## Khalam

ok guys, finally I can share







here come the pics, please tell me what you think and what changes would you have made


----------



## Khalam




----------



## superhead91

@Khalam Looks good!







I like that case.


----------



## Zmanster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pujo*


Update: With Swiftech Epsilon 6990 Full Coverage Waterblock.


Out of curiousity, how are your CPU and 6990 temps using only one RX360 rad?


----------



## Khalam

thanks a lot, its my first water build


----------



## KaRLiToS

@Khalam .. You did not do your setup in one loop?? 
I strongly suggest you do it like this:
Res-->dual Pumps-->CPU-->360 Rad-->GPU-->GPU-->240 Rad-->Back to Res



















PS: Your rig is awsome but you have too much tubing, I presume you have 2 pumps?


----------



## Khalam

yes bro 2 pumps, problem is I had everything setup already and just needed to fill it up when you posted your option







(I had no more tubing left and I couldnt be without a pc any longer). Atm ive got a different problem, there is a lot of air bubbles in the loop and the res but whatever angle I wouldnt hold the case at they wont go away, and even though the res on the right isnt totally full it will spit back any water ill pure in







because of that every 2-3min the right side pump whines and squeels for a few sec and my temps go up by around 10c for those few sec


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


yes bro 2 pumps, problem is I had everything setup already and just needed to fill it up when you posted your option







(I had no more tubing left and I couldnt be without a pc any longer). Atm ive got a different problem, there is a lot of air bubbles in the loop and the res but whatever angle I wouldnt hold the case at they wont go away, and even though the res on the right isnt totally full it will spit back any water ill pure in







because of that every 2-3min the right side pump whines and squeels for a few sec and my temps go up by around 10c for those few sec


You are starving your pump you need to fix that issue right away or risk damaging your pump.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pujo*












crock maker
rice pot?


----------



## Ceadderman

Deep frier.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


yes bro 2 pumps, problem is I had everything setup already and just needed to fill it up when you posted your option







(I had no more tubing left and I couldnt be without a pc any longer). Atm ive got a different problem, there is a lot of air bubbles in the loop and the res but whatever angle I wouldnt hold the case at they wont go away, and even though the res on the right isnt totally full it will spit back any water ill pure in







because of that every 2-3min the right side pump whines and squeels for a few sec and my temps go up by around 10c for those few sec



I assume you've tried shaking the hell outta the case? Just tipping it doesn't always work. To bleed my current rig, I had to shake it a bunch and at one point, lay it completely on its side (so that the motherboard was facing up, towards the ceiling) to get all the air out of the radiator and such.


----------



## veblen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;14293025*
> yes bro 2 pumps, problem is I had everything setup already and just needed to fill it up when you posted your option (I had no more tubing left and I couldnt be without a pc any longer). Atm ive got a different problem, there is a lot of air bubbles in the loop and the res but whatever angle I wouldnt hold the case at they wont go away, and even though the res on the right isnt totally full it will spit back any water ill pure in because of that every 2-3min the right side pump whines and squeels for a few sec and my temps go up by around 10c for those few sec


Is that a 452x2 or a 402x2? Did you get the bleed kit with it? (Newer revisions come with it but you can request one from Koolance if you got an older revision.)

They are a pain to bleed; this is what I do:

1. Open one of the fillports (I typically attach a length of tube with a barb at one end and a funnel at the other). Tilt and shake the case left, right, front, back; if need be, lay it flat on its side.
2. That should get some air bubbles out. Fill up if necessary and open the other fillport and repeat.
3. I fill up both compartments of the reservoir once I get the air bled out.

Watch the air bubbles' movement as you tilt the case to get a sense of which direction to shift. The entire bleed process can take a while.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veblen;14296155*
> Is that a 452x2 or a 402x2? Did you get the bleed kit with it? (Newer revisions come with it but you can request one from Koolance if you got an older revision.)
> 
> They are a pain to bleed; this is what I do:
> 
> 1. Open one of the fillports (I typically attach a length of tube with a barb at one end and a funnel at the other). Tilt and shake the case left, right, front, back; if need be, lay it flat on its side.
> 2. That should get some air bubbles out. Fill up if necessary and open the other fillport and repeat.
> 3. I fill up both compartments of the reservoir once I get the air bled out.
> 
> Watch the air bubbles' movement as you tilt the case to get a sense of which direction to shift. The entire bleed process can take a while.


Yeah I got the 401x2 and it took a few days to bleed, and I can still hear it occasionally.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger;14295773*
> I assume you've tried shaking the hell outta the case? Just tipping it doesn't always work. To bleed my current rig, I had to shake it a bunch and at one point, lay it completely on its side (so that the motherboard was facing up, towards the ceiling) to get all the air out of the radiator and such.


Or he could come to Christchurch with his rig. I had tipped my case, shaken it and thought I'd got all the air out. Then we had a few large earthquakes and they proved me wrong! Poor pump sucked air for half a minute before I could get out from under the desk and shut it off haha


----------



## Boyboyd

I tip my case 90 degrees anticlockwise so that's it's flat on the desk, then run it. Gets all the air out almost instantly. Just make sure the cap on the res is on really tight.


----------



## pujo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zmanster;14292860*
> Out of curiousity, how are your CPU and 6990 temps using only one RX360 rad?


Cpu temp is not the best. Water gets a little warm due to gpu highly overclocked. Gpu temps are great though does not go over 50c while gaming.

Will need to get another rad or do a push and pull set up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14293308*
> crock maker
> rice pot?


Haha, its a rice cooker


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pujo;14299438*
> Cpu temp is not the best. Water gets a little warm due to gpu highly overclocked. Gpu temps are great though does not go over 50c while gaming.
> 
> Will need to get another rad or do a push and pull set up.


What CPU temps do you get under a Prime95 (or similar) load?
And what vcore


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pujo;14299438*
> Haha, its a rice cooker


Nice! Where can I get one of those HAF X bodied Rice Cookers?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kiwiasian

Thought I'd like to show off how sexy my EK block looks.


----------



## pujo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;14299858*
> What CPU temps do you get under a Prime95 (or similar) load?
> And what vcore


Well if its the cpu im stressing, under prime it sits between 65-70c but if its just the gpu, cpu can get up to 67c and only 25% load on the cpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14299912*
> Nice! Where can I get one of those HAF X bodied Rice Cookers?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Haha, dont think u can get anymore. I took the last one. Haha


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


Thought I'd like to show off how sexy my EK block looks.











will tubing fit on those barbs next to the mem sinks?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Looks like it'll be a really tight fit.


----------



## Triangle

Well, it looks like he will need some 90's if it doesn't fit...


----------



## saint19

45Âº or 90Âº in the extreme side.


----------



## SQLinsert

just get some extensions and you'll be fine /\\


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummm, h2o n00b here so pardon my asking this...

...but don't the RAMsinks go on the top side of the card since heat rises? Seems to me that putting RAMsinks on the bottom side of the card is going to draw more heat to the RAM and not expel it as efficiently as it could.









~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ummm, h2o n00b here so pardon my asking this...

...but don't the RAMsinks go on the top side of the card since heat rises? Seems to me that putting RAMsinks on the bottom side of the card is going to draw more heat to the RAM and not expel it as efficiently as it could.









~Ceadder










Nice one Ceadder









If you were serious: Heatsinks are on the card the same way the stock cooler is









Also, thats why you can buy GPU backplates to cool the other side of the chips


----------



## Aliaus

Do the backplates really cool anything? I thought they were just for looks. I took off the backplate on my 6950 to install an ek block and it doesn't seem to be making contact with anything.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


Thought I'd like to show off how sexy my EK block looks.











File down the pins a bit for clearance if you don't want to go w/ extensions (which is what I would go for







)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aliaus*


Do the backplates really cool anything? I thought they were just for looks. I took off the backplate on my 6950 to install an ek block and it doesn't seem to be making contact with anything.


Just for the ram chips on the backside. Most cards are using higher density ram chips and this allows manufacturers to put them on the top gpu side. Also, those w/ ram on the back will most likely have a back plate included. Most of the backplates I've seen are for garnish only.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well if my 5770 didn't have RAM on the back I wouldn't be serious I guess.









Too bad I cannot find a back plate for a Reference Design 5770. If I wasn't going to be spending over $480 on Cooling I might have requested a 69** series card instead.









Gonna go with everything but GPU block. Decided a Full Coverage block is more important since my board under 100% load on the stock cooler likes to flirt with 58c when I'm gaming. Graphics card never goes above 55c. I think you know how easy THAT decision was. Just wish the EK block was Copper instead of Shiny Nickel. Hope I can get them to change it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well if my 5770 didn't have RAM on the back I wouldn't be serious I guess.









Too bad I cannot find a back plate for a Reference Design 5770. If I wasn't going to be spending over $480 on Cooling I might have requested a 69** series card instead.









Gonna go with everything but GPU block. Decided a Full Coverage block is more important since my board under 100% load on the stock cooler likes to flirt with 58c when I'm gaming. Graphics card never goes above 55c. I think you know how easy THAT decision was. Just wish the EK block was Copper instead of Shiny Nickel. Hope I can get them to change it.









~Ceadder










Consider this then. Go to their website and see if they have a kit for your GPU. I didn't see 5770 listed but 5870 is but I am not sure if it's the same layout. May need to do some research. What I like about it is if you later change the GPU it's a matter of simply getting the right kit (like $6). Good for both Nvidia and AMD GPU's. I had very good results with it and would get it again. The reviews on this cooler are not hype. Excellent option if you do not plan on SLI/X-Fire'ing since it lmost doubled the thickness of the card.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ummm, h2o n00b here so pardon my asking this...

...but don't the RAMsinks go on the top side of the card since heat rises? Seems to me that putting RAMsinks on the bottom side of the card is going to draw more heat to the RAM and not expel it as efficiently as it could.









~Ceadder










the chips on the front and on the back are completely different silicon, they both need heat sinks. you cannot cool a chip from the opposite side because the PCB is in the way and would insulate it, so you have to put the sinks on whatever side the chip is actually on. Also, the whole "heat rises" thing is completely void in computes because it only applies to natural convection, but because we use FANS the cooling in computers is by forced convection, so as long as air flows over the fins, it does not matter what direction and heat sink is in.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convect...ion_mechanisms


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Consider this then. Go to their website and see if they have a kit for your GPU. I didn't see 5770 listed but 5870 is but I am not sure if it's the same layout. May need to do some research. What I like about it is if you later change the GPU it's a matter of simply getting the right kit (like $6). Good for both Nvidia and AMD GPU's. I had very good results with it and would get it again. The reviews on this cooler are not hype. Excellent option if you do not plan on SLI/X-Fire'ing since it lmost doubled the thickness of the card.


I'm not too worried about cooling my Card(s) at the moment. Just the MainBoard and CPU. Batmobile cooler is working exceptionally well. ATi drivers may suck but their coolers are pretty well thought out in my experience.









Thanks for that kbmx. One of my Elevator don't go all the way to the top moments.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tex1954

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


File down the pins a bit for clearance if you don't want to go w/ extensions (which is what I would go for







)

Just for the ram chips on the backside. Most cards are using higher density ram chips and this allows manufacturers to put them on the top gpu side. Also, those w/ ram on the back will most likely have a back plate included. Most of the backplates I've seen are for garnish only.


My non-reference 460's have no chips on the back side. I used the same RamSinks. If you download full resolution and zoom in on this picture, you can see how I bent the pics sideways to clear the 1/4" tubing. And yes, 1/4" works fine.

http://tex1954.imgur.com/corsair_800d_beater_box#K2ZBh

I will never buy a non-reference again if there is any chance I will want to water cool it.


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14301836*
> will tubing fit on those barbs next to the mem sinks?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14301848*
> Looks like it'll be a really tight fit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle;14301870*
> Well, it looks like he will need some 90's if it doesn't fit...


No it fits fine.
It is slightly angled and points upwards away from the ramsinks.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Ah sweet







Can be tough to tell from photos sometimes. I've got the same block but different ramsinks on mine so wasn't sure.


----------



## wermad

if the tube and fittings clear, cool


----------



## Pis

Hmm, I need to reposition my pump because I can't fit in 200 mm fan.


----------



## Bouf0010

do you only have 1 fan on your 360 rad??


----------



## Aliaus

can anyone recommend a REEEEALLY thick radiator 100+ mm. I was looking at the Feser Monsta but that's discontinued.


----------



## Pis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14312785*
> do you only have 1 fan on your 360 rad??


3; 1 push & 2 exhaust


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;14312951*
> can anyone recommend a REEEEALLY thick radiator 100+ mm. I was looking at the Feser Monsta but that's discontinued.


You trying to go full passive?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;14306249*
> No it fits fine.
> It is slightly angled and points upwards away from the ramsinks.


the way that tubing isn't even past the edge of the barb would scare the **** out of me. I know how tight that tubing goes on there, but I just wouldn't trust it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;14312951*
> can anyone recommend a REEEEALLY thick radiator 100+ mm. I was looking at the Feser Monsta but that's discontinued.


Try a few Swiftechs stackable rads. Why such a thick rad btw?

http://jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR-320-QP-Stackable-Radiator-MCR320-QP-STACK-pr-4419.html


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14313491*
> Try a few Swiftechs stackable rads. Why such a thick rad btw?
> 
> http://jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR-320-QP-Stackable-Radiator-MCR320-QP-STACK-pr-4419.html


of course i can always stack rads, but i prefer a single radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe;14313226*
> You trying to go full passive?


nope, just going plain overboard lol. All these amazing builds here got me addicted to water cooling. Started with a single cpu loop and spiraled from there. Once you've tasted the poison, might as well eat the whole dish right?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;14313608*
> of course i can always stack rads, but i prefer a single radiator.
> 
> nope, just going plain overboard lol. All these amazing builds here got me addicted to water cooling. Started with a single cpu loop and spiraled from there. Once you've tasted the poison, might as well eat the whole dish right?


If you want something big and bad, get a Black Ice GTX560.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Wermad, you are so overkill


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14313833*
> Wermad, you are so overkill


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14313760*
> If you want something big and bad, get a Black Ice GTX560.


Why stop there? Continue on to this!


----------



## aroc91

Overboard would be fitting a good heater core into your loop.


----------



## Tomiger

Finished up the rig, as far as watercooling is concerned:

(got some dual-monitor wallpapers after this picture; I use a matrox dualhead2go to allow 3 monitors since I only have 1 GPU; it takes my two 24inch monitors and makes them one 3840x1080 desktop and Win7 didn't like any of my previous desktop dimensions. OSX never had a problem stretching/making them look right)























































And some video because my digital camera sucks:

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZY6N4IBfmKY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZY6N4IBfmKY"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZY6N4IBfmKY[/ame[/URL]]

Check out the build log in my sig for the details


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;14313882*
> Why stop there? Continue on to this!


It doubles as a car heatercore too









Totally forgot about the magicool/mora


----------



## Ceadderman

Phobya has a sweet 180/200 unit that you can get from PPCs' too. I was kinda bummed when I first saw it thinking that it would cost too much since AT seemed to be the only place to find it. Well when I was searching for a Radiator on PPCs' I came across it. Still costs too much compared to the 360 I'm looking at(Black Ice III) but I think it might make a great option for a 2ndary Radiator. Remove my HDD rack and I can mount it to the front 200.









Still, $75 before shipping means I'll be waiting until somebody comes to their senses.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Aliaus

So I looked around some more and really the Feser Monsta is in its own league. Can't find any other radiator that's 100+ mm thick. Really a shame it's discontinued, I have a thing for thick rads.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated

has anyone seen any comparisons of the Monsta vs. some other normal thickness rads? I almost suspect that normal thickness would be better because there would be less airflow restriction.


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;14293025*
> yes bro 2 pumps, problem is I had everything setup already and just needed to fill it up when you posted your option (I had no more tubing left and I couldnt be without a pc any longer). Atm ive got a different problem, there is a lot of air bubbles in the loop and the res but whatever angle I wouldnt hold the case at they wont go away, and even though the res on the right isnt totally full it will spit back any water ill pure in because of that every 2-3min the right side pump whines and squeels for a few sec and my temps go up by around 10c for those few sec


i had what i think was the same problem. a little vortex forms on the res outlet, i fixed it by turning my pump down a knotch


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


Updated

has anyone seen any comparisons of the Monsta vs. some other normal thickness rads? I almost suspect that normal thickness would be better because there would be less airflow restriction.


Can you elaborate on that theory a bit? Cus I would argue that thickness of the rad has no influence on airflow restriction. 30 mm rads would have same restriction as 100 mm if the fin density is the same. Imagine a really thick rad with no fins, in fact that would be what we call a shroud (no restriction). Not an expert on this, just what my intuition tells me.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


No it fits fine.
It is slightly angled and points upwards away from the ramsinks.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


the way that tubing isn't even past the edge of the barb would scare the **** out of me. I know how tight that tubing goes on there, but I just wouldn't trust it.


I'd be scared too...


----------



## pn0yb0i

Its Rubber on Plastic, It has a death grip on it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aliaus*


Can you elaborate on that theory a bit? Cus I would argue that thickness of the rad has no influence on airflow restriction. 30 mm rads would have same restriction as 100 mm if the fin density is the same. Imagine a really thick rad with no fins, in fact that would be what we call a shroud (no restriction). Not an expert on this, just what my intuition tells me.


friction my friend. the longer the surface is that the air is flowing over (the fins), the greater the friction will be. Which means greater pressure drop; which means lower air flow rate. If the airflow is reduced enough then the cooling will not be as good despite the larger surface area. It is all fundamental fluid dynamics


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aliaus*


Can you elaborate on that theory a bit? Cus I would argue that thickness of the rad has no influence on airflow restriction. 30 mm rads would have same restriction as 100 mm if the fin density is the same. Imagine a really thick rad with no fins, in fact that would be what we call a shroud (no restriction). Not an expert on this, just what my intuition tells me.


Yeah I don't think so. Thinner Rads actually allow more surface flow than thicker ones. You're fans would have to be pretty powerful to get the same level of cooling as a 35mm Rad does with a Yate Loon 120 fan(for the sake of example) blowing through it. Also 100mm would create more noise as the airflow bounces through the vanes.

In face Black Ice has a low airflow Rad that has 9 vanes per inch along a dual pass 480 setup. With 3/16" gap between the Fans and the Vanes to get them off the vanes. Anyone that has a high dB fan knows full well the racket they make when mounted to flow through a metal case grill.

It's not just cooling you're after but a quieter system in most instances. Only the younger or hearing impaired crowd have no issues with loud droning fans at full load.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tex1954

One also has to remember that all fans "twist" the air... in other words, the air isn't being pushed straight into or sucked out of the radiator. The air rotates like a tornado and that causes a lot of the noise when a fan is too close to the fins.

Another thing that happens is excess air that can't be pushed through or sucked out of the radiator bleeds past the fan blades causing little turbulences and vortices because of pressure differential.

All these things add up to flow degradation and noise. That is a major reason shrouds/plenums help somewhat... the air has a chance to stop spinning and become less turbulent and more linear in flow.

Remember, fans (bladed types) are not positive displacement pumps of any sort... pressure differential between the intake/exhaust sides will always affect noise and efficiency.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

The thicker the rad is the more air pressure needs to have to cool down the extra surface, thin rads have low air restriction and air pressure drop but they dont have the thermal dissipation capacity of a thicker rad with same fins per inch, you can this for example in AC units the bigger the condenser coil the more powerful the fan needs to be.


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14323651*
> friction my friend. the longer the surface is that the air is flowing over (the fins), the greater the friction will be. Which means greater pressure drop; which means lower air flow rate. If the airflow is reduced enough then the cooling will not be as good despite the larger surface area. It is all fundamental fluid dynamics


Interesting, but are you sure we're not overestimating the friction between the air and fins? Though maybe I'm underestimating. Now I'm really curious. Does anyone know any comparative data between thin and thick rads?


----------



## RobbyRoyal

Here is my first build after a month or two of changes. I started with a RASA RX360 kit. Then, I caught the bug and added or swapped.....

a full cover block for the GPU
a second 240 radiator at the bottom
all new tubing
a ton of fittings
Gentle Typoons x 5
Magnetic Air filters
a more reliable MCP35X pump
a bitspower 250 tube reservoir


----------



## CD69Scorp

Hi, wanted to post a new build I've been working on.
It's a water cooled HTPC with a radiator box I made, and a Lian Li case.
More details in build log.









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24









By cd69scorp at 2011-07-24


----------



## KaRLiToS

@RobbyRoyal: Nice work, if you sleeved the cable with green amd black braided sleeve or paracord, it would be awsome.

@cd69Scorp: That is very major professionnal work, very jealous


----------



## Ceadderman

Is that a San Francisco Giants pennant on your wall CD69Scorp?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14330839*
> Is that a San Francisco Giants pennant on your wall CD69Scorp?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Nascar


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp;14330899*
> Nascar


Cool. It looks like a Giants pennant in the Reflection of your TV.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated, and very impressed


----------



## nzftw

Scorp...that looks amazing. You even kitted out your pump with the dress up kit and top! How much more dedicated to a htpc can you get


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14332626*
> updated, and very impressed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14333076*
> Scorp...that looks amazing. You even kitted out your pump with the dress up kit and top! How much more dedicated to a htpc can you get


Thank you!!
I started out just wanting a htpc. And since I have the water bug this is what I ended up with.

Wanted to do a radiator box and see how it would turn out. So far it sounds and performs better than I had hoped. It kinda took on a life of it's own
I just started really getting into it, kept finding new things to do to it.

Still not done, I have two WD 2T CB drives coming in tomorrow.


----------



## superhead91

@CD69Scorp

That looks awesome!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp;14330737*
> *snip*


Great job


----------



## RushMore1205

I love what he did there, little water box


----------



## veblen

Indeed! And here I am, trying to decide if it's worth it to fit a 2x92mm rad in my Antec NSK2480.

I wish I had modding skills.







Kudos to you, CD69Scorp! Fantastic build!


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


@CD69Scorp

That looks awesome!!











Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Great job











Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


I love what he did there, little water box


Thank you all so much!!!
The little water box so far hasn't let the 480 temp go above 44c in game


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *veblen*


Indeed! And here I am, trying to decide if it's worth it to fit a 2x92mm rad in my Antec NSK2480.

I wish I had modding skills.







Kudos to you, CD69Scorp! Fantastic build!










I just Googled your case, and I see what you mean. Not a hole lot you can do with these type of cases.

And thank you!!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*


Hi, wanted to post a new build I've been working on.
It's a water cooled HTPC with a radiator box I made, and a Lian Li case. 
More details in build log.


Lian Li pulls out ahead once again, Dam I Love them cases, btw you did a great job matching the look with the rad box! A+ job man


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


Lian Li pulls out ahead once again, Dam I Love them cases, btw you did a great job matching the look with the rad box! A+ job man


Thank you!!
This is my first Lian Li case, and I am really impressed with how it feels and looks. Don't think it will be my last one ether.
I tried to come close to making it match. All Lian Li panels and such, but I'm happy with the way it turned out.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

CD69Scorp

You have some skills, your rig deserves an award!


----------



## TPE-331

@CD69Scorp, I love Pop Secret popcorn!







Never really was a big fan of Orville Redenbacher's!







Nive setup you've got there.


----------



## rheicel

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14335581*
> CD69Scorp
> 
> You have some skills, your rig deserves an award!


I agree with that assessment, what should this award be called? any suggestions?


----------



## Ceadderman

The couch potata?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14337696*
> I agree with that assessment, what should this award be called? any suggestions?


The separates award?


----------



## jellis142

Double Trouble


----------



## veblen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14336702*
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Tell me this is a Zacate (E-350)! I've been looking to do that and this is clever!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

A few pics of my Cobra project, it's pretty much complete at this point... Full glamour photoshoot to come sometime this week outside


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14337696*
> Updated
> 
> I agree with that assessment, what should this award be called? any suggestions?


Media Heatkiller Pro


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled;14338198*
> glamour photoshoot


unless your case has breasts I think we can call that something else


----------



## weeble

I absolutely love that color scheme


----------



## bundymania

Infos:

MAGNUM Case Comparisons - Overclock.net - Overclocking.net


----------



## Ceadderman

Yikes that X3 is thick.









I forget where I read that someone wanted a thick 100mm Rad, but if there isn't one anymore I would suggest checking that X3 beast out.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

and I think we are gonna go with... The Set-Top Rad Box Award

congrats CD69Scorp


----------



## Alatar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *veblen*


Tell me this is a Zacate (E-350)! I've been looking to do that and this is clever!


looks more like AM3.


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


*snip*


Thats a massively thick rad. How much does that weigh...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alatar*


looks more like AM3.


It is. Looks like an ASUS board, though I can't be sure since all the writing is covered by the blocks and hoses.









~Ceadder


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

and I think we are gonna go with... The Set-Top Rad Box Award

congrats CD69Scorp










Thank you Kevin, this is COOL, unexpected but COOL








Saw this this morning but couldn't comment had to head out, but it made my day.

Thank you all for the Great comments, much appreciated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*


Thank you Kevin, this is COOL, unexpected but COOL








Saw this this morning but couldn't comment had to head out, but it made my day.

Thank you all for the Great comments, much appreciated










Haha, always glad to make people's days.







that rad box looks great, well done. ;-)


----------



## B3RGY

bundy that is a massive rad!


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B3RGY*


bundy that is a massive rad!


that just doesn't sound right


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SQLinsert*


that just doesn't sound right


What's long, black, quite girthy, and has liquid running through it?


----------



## Necrodox

Alright guys I'm going to have a CPU and GPU waterblock and two radiators, what pump would you guys recommend to handle all that?


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Necrodox*


Alright guys I'm going to have a CPU and GPU waterblock and two radiators, what pump would you guys recommend to handle all that?


Laing DDC 10w with a Laing EK DDC X-TOP Rev.2 - Acetal


----------



## Necrodox

I'm currently at work too, do you guys mind pairing your recommendations with links to the product? It would be a great help. Thanks.


----------



## Kahbrohn

@Bundy...

Thing will cool my car!!!!!!

That would be an interesting thing to see some test results on.


----------



## Levesque

Since I'm changing my parts so often, I wanted to go with Koolance Quick disconnects all over, so I decided to also do a little ''MM cable management project'' at the same time.

MM cases are notoriously difficult to work with for proper cable management. Really a pain to do. So I decided to make my own ''DIY alu panel'' for proper cable management in my gigantic Mountain Mods Extended Ascension.

So here's my DIY alu panel after painting (still not dry). The picture is not very good.







The finish is pretty good and uniform in reality. But my camera decided to add some random noise in there.


















Went overboard








with Koolance QDC. There's ALOT of QDC in there!A mixture of VL4N and VL3N. Just look how big those VL4N are compared to a GT 120mm!!!










Tubing done. Front side-view with mobo. You can see the first MCP655 and res.










Behind the mobo and the new DIY alu panel. 2 other pumps and res. So 3 loops, 3 pumps, and 4 res total.









There is 3 Triple 120 rads on the front panel and we can see a Quad 120 rad on the top panel.










Parts in there:

-Mountain Mods Extended Ascension
-Asus Maximus IV + i7 2600K at 5.1 (24\\7)with EK waterblock Supreme HF
-16GB of G.Skill Ripjaws RAM
-AMD Quad-Fire set-up: 6990+6970+6970
-6990: Koolance waterblock 6970: EK waterblocks
-3X30'' LCD Eyefinity set-up
-C300 256Gb, 2X Intel X25M 160Gb, 3X seagate 2TB
-Corsair AX1200
-LG Blu-ray writer
-Radiators: 2X MCR320 + 1X Feser 3X120 + 1X MCR420
-Pumps: 3X MCP655
-Res: 3X EK 150mm
-Koolance QDC: VL4N and VL3N
-Tubing Primochill LRT Black
-18 Gentle Typhoons + 1X red Enermax


----------



## nzftw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


What's long, black, quite girthy, and has liquid running through it?




















Good work levesque...how much did those QDC's set you back!









@bundy, wow mate that thing is huge...it all most looks like you can put the fans inside of the radiator housing?


----------



## Khalam

Levesque, I hate you so much right now....







congrats on an awesome rig bro







and here i thought I had a beast of a pc







but just you wait, im in the process of collecting money for a th10


----------



## Levesque

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


how much did those QDC's set you back!










14 pairs: 14 male and 14 female = 28 QDC. Do the count.









And I just ordered 4 more pairs today, so 8 more.


----------



## RushMore1205

is this the best cpu block you can buy right now?????
i mean not including the all silver one that is 300$

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_inf...775--G1-4.html


----------



## RushMore1205

hey bundy do you know when that Massive Rad due to be released? it would go great in my upcoming build


----------



## RushMore1205

tired of me yet lol























































latest build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14346065*
> tired of me yet lol


normally I would say no to that question, but you did just TRIPLE post...

just sayin

edit: <<< see what I did there?


----------



## RushMore1205

my wifes laptop is pissing me off, i didnt even notice, all of that was suppose to be in one post, sorry man


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Yah yah likely story, likely story.









This is Rushmore's Water Cooling Emporium he's allowed.







lol

How OC'ed is the RAM on your build Rush? Is it really worth the added expense to put it on h2o? I may sell my RAM to my bro and go back to 8GB of Doms.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

You guys have some wicked water cooling builds, I'm very much enjoying this thread.

I'll post a pic of my set up in the future sometime. nice to see you around Ceadderman


----------



## Heat

Are these compression fittings any good for 1/2 ID 3/4 OD?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=30115


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Should be okay so long as you make sure you get .5/.75 ID/OD hose. Make sure it's 3/4" though so that the compression ring presses the hose into the fitting with the right amount of pressure.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT;14346483*
> You guys have some wicked water cooling builds, I'm very much enjoying this thread.
> 
> I'll post a pic of my set up in the future sometime. nice to see you around Ceadderman


Thanks man, I saw yur name and was gonna say "SSSUP!"







, but you beat me to it.









Soon as I get my shiz together I'll be posting pics of my build once it's done(for now) just sitting here waiting on money to fall from heaven.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Heat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14346589*
> ^^^Should be okay so long as you make sure you get .5/.75 ID/OD hose. Make sure it's 3/4" though so that the compression ring presses the hose into the fitting with the right amount of pressure.


This tubing will do correct?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23369


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14346442*
> ^^^Yah yah likely story, likely story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is Rushmore's Water Cooling Emporium he's allowed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> How OC'ed is the RAM on your build Rush? Is it really worth the added expense to put it on h2o? I may sell my RAM to my bro and go back to 8GB of Doms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


my ram is at 2012mhz, those are just regular 1600mhz

im not sure if that was the reason the speed increased but i also added a mosfet block, but before i could not go above 1800mhz


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heat;14346658*
> This tubing will do correct?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23369


Yuppers, I've got their UV White in that size. Since I've never seen anyone complaining about those fittings I'd assume you're all good.









@Rush, cool bro. I'm getting my FC block(hopefully soon) instead of GPU and blocks. Gotta do something about this NB temp. I really don't like that it's sitting at 50c under full load on 1 core. Doesn't leave me much in the way of headroom on a system that should easily be able to run at 45c in my system without much of an increase. Did the NB fix already so it's time to take drastic measures.









I'll hold off on the Doms for now and see what FC allows me to do once I get my board under water.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## RushMore1205

Nice


----------



## DrakeZ

hi guys i need some advice

i'm planning to change my tube from 3/8 ID to 1/2
it is worth or not?

Thanks


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ;14348050*
> hi guys i need some advice
> 
> i'm planning to change my tube from 3/8 ID to 1/2
> it is worth or not?
> 
> Thanks


Keep in mind that if you change it, the fittings or bars also change. Maybe the money won't work the upgrade.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm assuming that Drake understands that he's got to buy new fittings and he means is it better cooling running half-inch lines over three-eighths lines.

I think so yes. Not only does it allow more flow in the system the fans can be dialed back to a comfortable dB until you get your temps figured out. So there is a benefit. Now I'm not sure how much better temps will or won't be, since this is based primarily on ambient temps. Unless running a chiller of sorts, the lowest a system can go is ambient. So if ambient is 19c figure on 10c or more over depending on the rest of your loop. If you get better than that well then it was worth it. 









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14340683*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14341692*
> Yikes that X3 is thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forget where I read that someone wanted a thick 100mm Rad, but if there isn't one anymore I would suggest checking that X3 beast out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:
> 
> 
> 
> Aye, I was the one that wanted a thick rad. That X3 looks good but I have a few problems with it. First, the pipes in there are sequential instead of parallel like normal rads. Their website claims better heat dissipation this way but I have my doubts, not to mention the restriction caused by so many turns. Second, it doesn't use the classic fins array, instead it uses a series of tubes, segmented like a worm to increase surface area, not sure if this is better or worse in terms of airflow. Third, there are only two inlet/outlet and they point parallel to the radiator. There also seems to be a lot of wasted space between the pipes and the sides of the radiator. Overall the whole construction doesn't seem to be built as efficient as it could be, and I'm not rich enough to buy something unless I know it works.
Click to expand...


----------



## rheicel

Guys, do you think I can avoid noise if I put Koolance PMP-450 is series at 1 or 2 speed settings?


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I'm assuming that Drake understands that he's got to buy new fittings and he means is it better cooling running half-inch lines over three-eighths lines.

I think so yes. Not only does it allow more flow in the system the fans can be dialed back to a comfortable dB until you get your temps figured out. So there is a benefit. Now I'm not sure how much better temps will or won't be, since this is based primarily on ambient temps. Unless running a chiller of sorts, the lowest a system can go is ambient. So if ambient is 19c figure on 10c or more over depending on the rest of your loop. If you get better than that well then it was worth it.









~Ceadder











Performance is the same.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yuppers, I've got their UV White in that size. Since I've never seen anyone complaining about those fittings I'd assume you're all good.









@Rush, cool bro. I'm getting my FC block(hopefully soon) instead of GPU and blocks. Gotta do something about this NB temp. I really don't like that it's sitting at 50c under full load on 1 core. Doesn't leave me much in the way of headroom on a system that should easily be able to run at 45c in my system without much of an increase. Did the NB fix already so it's time to take drastic measures.









I'll hold off on the Doms for now and see what FC allows me to do once I get my board under water.









~Ceadder










Got my CHIV under the EK full cover block and it stays in the 30 to low 40s. Way better than the 50C it was getting up to before.


----------



## Forsaken_id

I'll add these to my build log soon, but here's some "teasers".


















Potentiometer to gentle this down some. It hits almost 20K RPM







otherwise with the Vsp and Vref tied together (built in the board that way). Fortunately, there is a trace you can scratch of to separate them and then add a pot so it is adjustable.

















































I still have some minor work to do, like managing the wires up top, but I can't find my wire clips/saddles.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

can you explain your loop order to me?


----------



## B3RGY

forsaken that's a sweet build


----------



## tipgo

Updated my new case Lian Li A20


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

can you explain your loop order to me?


CPU is pretty standard: Rad, CPU, res/pump
GPU is goofy: I got ******ed for a minute







and thought my pump in was the out, so to fix it quickly and since I was out of tubing it goes Rad, res/pump, GPU. It doesn't really matter I guess since everything kinda equalizes, but I will probably make it match the CPU loop once I get another couple 90s for the backside bottom corner (makes it cleaner) where I had to use regular barbs.

The drains are kinda silly, but gravity draining is for suckers. I used my wet.dry shop vac last night and that was epic and easy.









I wanted something different in looks so that is why it is kinda bizarre.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *B3RGY*


forsaken that's a sweet build










Thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tipgo*


Updated my new case Lian Li A20











Damn, that's clean!


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


I'll add these to my build log soon, but here's some "teasers".



















Wise choice on the M8. It is superior in many ways to other similar products.

You have build log?


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SQLinsert*


Wise choice on the M8. It is superior in many ways to other similar products.

You have build log?










I was one of the first with one, just took a while to start on it, this is the second iteration.

Build log is in my sig.


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


I was one of the first with one, just took a while to start on it, this is the second iteration.

Build log is in my sig.


ic ty

did you affix the pumps to the case or are they loose just standing there?


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SQLinsert*


ic ty

did you affix the pumps to the case or are they loose just standing there?


I got one of those beefy large plates for the bottom and drilled holes into that for the mounting. It is sturdy and saved me from having to drill into the case bottom.

Here's a view from the bottom of the 4 holes I had to make:









This view shows one of the mounting screws/grommet things:


----------



## svisse

Crap! i just spent 4 hour just to remove a single hdd and clean my rig. I hate small builds!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Got my CHIV under the EK full cover block and it stays in the 30 to low 40s. Way better than the 50C it was getting up to before.


Nice. Thanks for confirming my choice bro. Much appreciated.









~Ceadder


----------



## B3RGY

tipgo, that's the cleanest build ive seen in a while , good work


----------



## Haze_hellivo

TIPGO you can remove tygon letters with paint thiner.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*


TIPGO you can remove tygon letters with paint thiner.


I agree. Tygon tubing is normally advertised as being chemical resistant. Try it and then once the paint of off, have a cloth with clean water to clean away any residue. May try nail polish remover as well since it comes bottled in plastic... it should be even safer IMO.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I agree. Tygon tubing is normally advertised as being chemical resistant. Try it and then once the paint of off, have a cloth with clean water to clean away any residue. May try nail polish remover as well since it comes bottled in plastic... it should be even safer IMO.


Yup I would try polish remover on a small leftover piece or get a can of 3m Tar and Wax remover.










Stuff works awesome on stubborn road grime and fresh marker paint. Handy to have a bottle on the shelf for important things like removing lettering off of water tubing. Little dab'll do ya.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Tygon lettering will come off with water and a cloth...or tim remover and a cloth if its stubborn.
Mine came off with just water and some gentle rubbing.


----------



## Castle02

Nice super clean build, Tipgo! Do you have a build log? I am curious as to where your lines go from your cpu.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Looks awesome Tipgo! I'm curious as to the older hardware you are using in that rig. Looks like a Crosshair II mobo with some G.skill Pi ram. Fill us in!


----------



## tipgo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*


TIPGO you can remove tygon letters with paint thiner.


I will try to do it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Castle02*


Nice super clean build, Tipgo! Do you have a build log? I am curious as to where your lines go from your cpu.


Images in the camera. I took a look at it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*


Looks awesome Tipgo! I'm curious as to the older hardware you are using in that rig. Looks like a Crosshair II mobo with some G.skill Pi ram. Fill us in!


mobo asus m3a32-mvp deluxe wifi-ap 
ram G.skill Pib


----------



## Ceadderman

Hope nobody minds, but if someone is looking for 6950 cards with blocks BIOS cracked to 6970 you should check out wermad's sale in FS/Wtd forum. Wish I could do it but they're well out of my budget.









Excellent prices considering they come with the blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## nzftw

Wat hes selling them already!?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


Wat hes selling them already!?


Apparently the NVidia bug has him by the short and curlies.









~Ceadder


----------



## Heat

I need suggestions/guidance on some of my parts. I chose 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing because it's the only way I can use compression fittings to work with my HK 3.0 block.

Now I really need help with my fans. Firstly, should I push/pull or one or the other?

I'd like for the fans to be green and UV reactive. Now the black ice rad is generally better for lower fan speeds, correct?


----------



## Forsaken_id

The only decent fans that have green UV reactive parts are the Gelid Wing 12 or the Nanoxia FX-12s (various speeds). They are both fairly pricey, but are underrated and are decent. I have had the Gelids on an Swiftech MCR360 and they push fairly well and were quiet as my AP-14/AP-15s if not more so and temps were the same too.

They will be good on your SR-1 since it is made for fans up to 2000rpm.

I would use a angled compression for one of the CPU block fittings to make them fit and use 1/2 x 3/4 tubing, but that is just my preference. Everything looks good though.


----------



## rheicel

heatkiller block is the best, isn't it?


----------



## Ceadderman

You can get 45s' to put under your compression fittings to run .5"/.75" fittings if you'd like to go full flow. I have 13/19mm fittings on my block and put them on EnzoTech Matte Black 45s'. Fits perfectly and allows me access to 360 degrees of the compression rings. I highly recommend them extremely tight and takes some doing to get them to turn without undoing the teflon tape by backing out the thread but with a little more tension I'm pretty sure they'll be fully seated.



























$7 each and Newegg carries them with free shipping I think.









If you aren't going to be filling your window, then I suggest Push/Pull in exhaust if mounted up top. If mounted on the on the floor, side or front then make them intake to get the cooler air into the Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


heatkiller block is the best, isn't it?


I believe the EK Supreme HF, Koolance CPU-370, and Aquacomputer Kryos blocks edge it out ever so slightly. All the top blocks are so close in performance it's almost negligible.


----------



## bundymania

Aliaus said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aye, I was the one that wanted a thick rad. That X3 looks good but I have a few problems with it. First, the pipes in there are sequential instead of parallel like normal rads. Their website claims better heat dissipation this way but I have my doubts, not to mention the restriction caused by so many turns. Second, it doesn't use the classic fins array, instead it uses a series of tubes, segmented like a worm to increase surface area, not sure if this is better or worse in terms of airflow. Third, there are only two inlet/outlet and they point parallel to the radiator. There also seems to be a lot of wasted space between the pipes and the sides of the radiator. Overall the whole construction doesn't seem to be built as efficient as it could be, and I'm not rich enough to buy something unless I know it works.
> 
> 
> I already tested this rad some weeks ago and the result is not like the thermalfins boss had awaited. ItÂ´s ok in general, build quality is very good, but when it comes to the temps the rad is placed only in the midfield ! So a new version is already in production and should be out in august / september for some tests in my "lab"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has more tubes and some other changes were made.


----------



## _craven_

Finally .. my project is almost done after 6 months








See my worklogs link on my sig for more information

















































































I know EK have problem with their nickel plating but I bought all my watercooling parts just before everyone complaining about it








I can't send them back to EK because it will take 10-14 days for every shipments to and from my country









watercooling parts:

1x HWLabs Black Ice GTX 420
2x EK XTC 420 Triple Radiator
1x EK XT 360 Triple Radiator
1x EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
3x EK-FC 580 GTX+ Nickel/Plexi
3x EK-FC 580 GTX Nickel Backplate
3x EK-FC GeForce Links
1x EK-FC Triple Parallel Bridge
1x EK-FB GA P67 (UD7)
1x EK Multioption X2 Res 250 Basic
1x EK Multioption X2 Res 250 Advance
2x EK-D5 Dual Top
4x Swiftech MCP655 with variable speed
EK and Bitspower Compression Fittings + Many Bitspower rotary adapters + extenders
1/2" ID, 3/4" OD Tygon R-3603 Tubing

for more info please see my worklogs


----------



## whipple16

Wow that looks amazing craven!!!

I have had a few ek blocks in the past year and never had a problem with any of them so hopefully you have the same luck.

And that is 2 cases put together!!!


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_craven_;14365516*


Those HAF-X's look sweey in white...


----------



## wermad

Nice concept Craven







. Ceadderman has something like this going on with 932s.

Did you by any chance checked out Mountain Mods? The cost of two Xs could have netted you a MM or a Case Labs (<-might have been too late for this one though).


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_craven_;14365516*
> Finally .. my project is almost done after 6 months
> 
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> See my worklogs link on my sig for more information
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> I can't send them back to EK because it will take 10-14 days for every shipments to and from my country
> 
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> 
> watercooling parts:
> 
> 1x HWLabs Black Ice GTX 420
> 2x EK XTC 420 Triple Radiator
> 1x EK XT 360 Triple Radiator
> 1x EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
> 3x EK-FC 580 GTX+ Nickel/Plexi
> 3x EK-FC 580 GTX Nickel Backplate
> 3x EK-FC GeForce Links
> 1x EK-FC Triple Parallel Bridge
> 1x EK-FB GA P67 (UD7)
> 1x EK Multioption X2 Res 250 Basic
> 1x EK Multioption X2 Res 250 Advance
> 2x EK-D5 Dual Top
> 4x Swiftech MCP655 with variable speed
> EK and Bitspower Compression Fittings + Many Bitspower rotary adapters + extenders
> 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD Tygon R-3603 Tubing
> 
> for more info please see my worklogs


Do I sense another award coming?!

Supreme build!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Castle02

Craven, that is one awesome HAF- cube. Gonna take a peek at your work log.


----------



## nzftw

Looks very nice in white...lord vader







.....na lame.

Haze...did you just quote all of those pictures


----------



## SQLinsert

looks like a old mainframe at disco


----------



## valvehead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_craven_*












I'm not much of a fan of CM cases, but that looks cool with the white trim. Along with the lines of light on the front, it looks like something out of the original TRON film.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *valvehead*


I'm not much of a fan of CM cases, but that looks cool with the white trim. Along with the lines of light on the front, it looks like something out of the original TRON film.


I get the feeling it's a transformer and it will pop out any second now.


----------



## Levin63

Apologize for the crappy photos, not the best camera . . . or cameraman


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Levin63*


Apologize for the crappy photos, not the best camera . . . or cameraman



















I is jelly of your case









Great looking build mate


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## XiDillon

Craven, that wins hands down the nicest cube case ive seen. +10


----------



## sinfonia

My first water cooling build. Went pretty much without a hitch. Get great temps too compared to my Hyper 212+







.

I didn't have my dremel with me (forgot it at work, d'oh!) so the reservoir is held in by zipties (rather than acrylic clips) temporarily, lol.


----------



## Heat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You can get 45s' to put under your compression fittings to run .5"/.75" fittings if you'd like to go full flow. I have 13/19mm fittings on my block and put them on EnzoTech Matte Black 45s'. Fits perfectly and allows me access to 360 degrees of the compression rings. I highly recommend them extremely tight and takes some doing to get them to turn without undoing the teflon tape by backing out the thread but with a little more tension I'm pretty sure they'll be fully seated.



























$7 each and Newegg carries them with free shipping I think.









If you aren't going to be filling your window, then I suggest Push/Pull in exhaust if mounted up top. If mounted on the on the floor, side or front then make them intake to get the cooler air into the Radiator.









~Ceadder










Thanks a ton! And I'm going to be putting my Black Ice SR1 420mm rad at the top of the case, and the RX360 at the front, so push/pull on the black ice and intake on the rx 360?

And also, should I get the 700rpm version for my black ice or the 1200rpm? http://www.aquatuning.us/product_inf...140x25mm-.html or http://www.aquatuning.us/product_inf...140x25mm-.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Heat*


Thanks a ton! And I'm going to be putting my Black Ice SR1 420mm rad at the top of the case, and the RX360 at the front, so push/pull on the black ice and intake on the rx 360?

And also, should I get the 700rpm version for my black ice or the 1200rpm? http://www.aquatuning.us/product_inf...140x25mm-.html or http://www.aquatuning.us/product_inf...140x25mm-.html


If you have a skinny window like I do(HAF 932) I wouldn't do Push/Pull in the top. The whole point of a window is for people to see your gear. If your window is filled with a Radiator fans and shrouds, that pretty much negates the need for a window.









So I would do P/P on the 480 and single fan on the 360 unless you have a lot of panel real estate that is covering everything but the bare minimum of fans and radiator.









I'd get the 1200 rpm. If they're too loud you can always hook them up to a fan controller and dial them back. But if your temps are too high, you can't connect 700rpm fans to a controller to dial them up.









I'm going to be getting High Speed Silents again. I know those will be loud but I've got a RheoSmart 3 so I'll dial them back except for really hot days.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14377296*
> updated


I am the 886th member, thanks kevin

...and here is my other system









more pics on my build logs. thanks.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14373395*
> I get the feeling it's a transformer and it will pop out any second now.


That's what she said.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinfonia;14373742*


Love the build, especially the green helix reservoir


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;14378114*
> That's what she said.


She did? Whhhhyyyyy that lil slush puppy!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Levin63*


Apologize for the crappy photos, not the best camera . . . or cameraman



















Is it a custom case?


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


Is it a custom case?


That is a Little Devil case.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


Is it a custom case?


Looks like a LittleDevil V8
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30707

EDIT: Blast! Beat me to it rheicel


----------



## Bradford1040

has any cpu blocks come out or had a rev, that has pushed it to new cooling levels or is my apogee rev2 still doing about the best for my AMD as I will be upgrading to BD and want to get new things before it comes out, so if anyone has a sugestion hit me up with it thanks


----------



## EM2J

Quote:



Originally Posted by *morencyam*


Looks like a LittleDevil V8
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30707

EDIT: Blast! Beat me to it rheicel


man I understand that those cases must be really nice to work with.... but damn they're hella ugly.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EM2J*


man I understand that those cases must be really nice to work with.... but damn they're hella ugly.


Pricey too: $699 @ ppcs.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EM2J*


man I understand that those cases must be really nice to work with.... but damn they're hella ugly.


The interior design and layout is damn near perfect, but the exterior does need some work. I don't like the seam on the side panel. I don't like the front either. If it had a vented bezel on the front like the Lian Li PC-A77F I think it would look a lot better. And it's MASSIVE. It's 1 inch longer and 4 inches taller than an 800D. And for that price, why not get a Case Labs or Mountain Mods case


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Pricey too: $699 @ ppcs.


yup the only reason I did not buy one myself! I think 700usd is just too much for any case no matter what it is still only about 60~100usd of material and you figure the time stamping it out and another 100 for just this and that 400usd would be a good price IMHO but as most biz they price is based on what it is not its worth and why not charge more for it right? they will pay for it if they want it! I think that doubling your money should be about it, not tripling it, and if they say they are barely making anything as it is! That line is used by everyone that is making the most on there items lol. I used to do that very same thing back before I felt remorse for screwing ones over with my pricing. I am still making ends meet and have enough to still expand and do R&D with out breaking everyone's wallet. I have many hobbies PC's being one of my fav's but the price gouging needs to stop, I don't want to say stop making money that would be just stupid as we would suffer being the consumers but dam man 700usd for a case all because it is 4" higher I mean come on

EDIT: another one is the TJ-11 silverstone it was 799 on it's release and only three months later it is 525? I mean if I was the first one to buy it I would be pissed, BOTH great looking though


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


yup the only reason I did not buy one myself! I think 700usd is just too much for any case no matter what it is still only about 60~100usd of material and you figure the time stamping it out and another 100 for just this and that 400usd would be a good price IMHO but as most biz they price is based on what it is not its worth and why not charge more for it right? they will pay for it if they want it! I think that doubling your money should be about it, not tripling it, and if they say they are barely making anything as it is! That line is used by everyone that is making the most on there items lol. I used to do that very same thing back before I felt remorse for screwing ones over with my pricing. I am still making ends meet and have enough to still expand and do R&D with out breaking everyone's wallet. I have many hobbies PC's being one of my fav's but the price gouging needs to stop, I don't want to say stop making money that would be just stupid as we would suffer being the consumers but dam man 700usd for a case all because it is 4" higher I mean come on

EDIT: another one is the TJ-11 silverstone it was 799 on it's release and only three months later it is 525? I mean if I was the first one to buy it I would be pissed










Amen to that!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *morencyam*









Amen to that!


I did not want you to think I was knocking your build I glad to see you understood what I meant

Whoops levin63's build


----------



## Kahbrohn

I wont say that case for $700 is ugly but it is (IMHO) just not "inspiring" to me. I don't know... I kinda need to feel good about a case if I buy it along with it being functional.

Now... on another topic... Has anyone seen one of these and does it seem hard/uncomfortable to water cool? (and yes, I think it's ugly but thats my opinion only) I think the Li went a bit overboard but... if it sells, so be it!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I think the lack of any flush panels to mount a radiator would make an internal loop of greater than 2x 120 rads nearly impossible.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EM2J*


man I understand that those cases must be really nice to work with.... but damn they're hella ugly.


lol, beauty is in the eye of the audience, lol. that case is ok to me by the looks, but you know what, there is no way I will pay for a case on that price.


----------



## minesae




----------



## minesae

fail....


----------



## minesae

dammn broken links.. can an admin notify me once images have been viewed lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14385318*
> I wont say that case for $700 is ugly but it is (IMHO) just not "inspiring" to me. I don't know... I kinda need to feel good about a case if I buy it along with it being functional.
> 
> Now... on another topic... Has anyone seen one of these and does it seem hard/uncomfortable to water cool? (and yes, I think it's ugly but thats my opinion only) I think the Li went a bit overboard but... if it sells, so be it!


This a case that would look right at home in an art deco themed media center. Fill it with your media system put in on the shelf and forget about it. Something to spark up a conversation with people who are easily amused.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minesae;14386123*
> dammn broken links.. can an admin notify me once images have been viewed lol


Here ya go:





































Copy the links above and post them in your other post.


----------



## morencyam

I have those Razer headphones too. They're pretty nice, the ear cushions are really soft


----------



## minesae

i dont really like em, my bose companions deal with game noises well so i rarely use the orcas, i guess i can us the watercooling taglines now














>







hehe


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minesae;14387305*
> i dont really like em, my bose companions deal with game noises well so i rarely use the orcas, i guess i can us the watercooling taglines now
> 
> 
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> hehe


They are sort of my back up pair. I have some noise cancelling headphones I got as a gift from my boss that I use most of the time.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minesae;14386123*
> dammn broken links.. can an admin notify me once images have been viewed lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minesae;14386105*
> 
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> haha that might help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minesae;14386082*
> pics of my first plumb
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5986467622/in/photostream
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5986465934/in/photostream
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5985905313/in/photostream


hey man, I am not gonna add you to the list until you get the pics right.

here is the code you need to make your pictures show up, copy and paste that into a post:



PHP:


[IMG alt="5986467622_326996b26e_b.jpg"]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6005/5986467622_326996b26e_b.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG alt="5985905313_7cdb9f2f72_b.jpg"]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6029/5985905313_7cdb9f2f72_b.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG alt="5985906405_8cfeed2e2d_b.jpg"]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6128/5985906405_8cfeed2e2d_b.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG alt="5986465934_cbb48931d8_b.jpg"]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6133/5986465934_cbb48931d8_b.jpg[/IMG]

also, keep in mind that there is an image insert tool you can use to post images with the image URL (get it by right clicking on the image and clicking copy image location)

and remember you can edit your posts yourself, you do not have to post new posts back to back, you can change the one you already have.

welcome to OCN


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14385318*
> I wont say that case for $700 is ugly but it is (IMHO) just not "inspiring" to me. I don't know... I kinda need to feel good about a case if I buy it along with it being functional.
> 
> Now... on another topic... Has anyone seen one of these and does it seem hard/uncomfortable to water cool? (and yes, I think it's ugly but thats my opinion only) I think the Li went a bit overboard but... if it sells, so be it!


they make this one and a few others as well that had that deco look or contemporary look which as it is can be important to some. I myself would never own it but have seen them in the Lian Li thread and a couple even on million dollar pc . In the right setting they fill in nicely with all black and white and gray type rooms! I never priced it does it go for 700 or were you just commenting on what I said earlier?


----------



## Bradford1040

my sig rig, Lian Li PC-A70B and will be posting my secondary rig soon as I am working on its water cooling stuff now (better late than never right) lol Secondary's spec's in link in my sig

The only update since these pictures on my main rig is the res (froaenQ busted from some thing wrong with the design) so in till I figure out what I would like to put im there I am using a swiftech micro res in place of the frozenQ 250mm t-virus


----------



## Ihasfip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;11431455*
> I just finished updating my loop...............


I'm not going to lie...I would let her have my children.

Whats this thread about again?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ihasfip;14388657*
> I'm not going to lie...I would let her have my children.
> 
> Whats this thread about again?


still like mine better lol


----------



## logan666

heres my raven 2 fully watercooled sli 480s i5 760 rx 360 rand rx 120 rad


----------



## minesae

orcas^^


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14387490*
> they make this one and a few others as well that had that deco look or contemporary look which as it is can be important to some. I myself would never own it but have seen them in the Lian Li thread and a couple even on million dollar pc . In the right setting they fill in nicely with all black and white and gray type rooms! I never priced it does it go for 700 or were you just commenting on what I said earlier?


This goes for about $250. You may be right. Change the color to lets say white... and I can see it "blending" in more with a rooms decoration. But it does have very limited water cooling capabilities unless you go with external rad's.120 rads, maybe a 240, on the inside. That seems about it though.


----------



## YerMother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14387792*
> my sig rig, Lian Li PC-A70B and will be posting my secondary rig soon as I am working on its water cooling stuff now (better late than never right) lol Secondary's spec's in link in my sig
> 
> The only update since these pictures on my main rig is the res (froaenQ busted from some thing wrong with the design) so in till I figure out what I would like to put im there I am using a swiftech micro res in place of the frozenQ 250mm t-virus


I like the use of the black foam used to cover the back of the graphics cards pcbs. Is it sound dampening stuff you have used?


----------



## rheicel

Guys, please check my build also, cheers!

http://www.overclock.net/amd-build-logs/1061211-build-logs-sugo-sg04h-amd-itx-5.html#post14389775

This will be a watercooled ITX.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


my sig rig, Lian Li PC-A70B and will be posting my secondary rig soon as I am working on its water cooling stuff now (better late than never right) lol Secondary's spec's in link in my sig

The only update since these pictures on my main rig is the res (froaenQ busted from some thing wrong with the design) so in till I figure out what I would like to put im there I am using a swiftech micro res in place of the frozenQ 250mm t-virus


I can't say I approve of using foam as a GPU back plate, foam insulates, and the whole point of a back plate is to help cool the card. you do not have any problems with memory overheating or anything like that?


----------



## _craven_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14368917*
> Nice concept Craven
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ceadderman has something like this going on with 932s.
> 
> Did you by any chance checked out Mountain Mods? The cost of two Xs could have netted you a MM or a Case Labs (<-might have been too late for this one though).


Well .. I checked out the case labs T10 + pedestal .. The price is not very expensive but after shipping fee it's extremely expensive .. for comparison:

HAF-X in my country is about 210 USD ( I already got one handcarried from singapore so I only have to buy 1 more)

CaseLabs T10 + Pedestals (inc shipping) is about 850 USD


----------



## RushMore1205

just found an old pictures of my set up

forget how good blue and red looked


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


just found an old pictures of my set up

forget how good blue and red looked

http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg363/rushmore1305/DSC01461.jpg[IMG]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
That does look good. The only light in my case is 2 UV CCFLs that light up my tubing.

All the best countries flags have red and blue in them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


All the best countries flags have red and blue in them.


Not true. Ireland doesn't have Blue in their flag and I consider it to be better than France.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have no tolerance for sheep burning communists....

We should of invaded france and been done with it


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Not true. Ireland doesn't have Blue in their flag and I consider it to be better than France.







lol

~Ceadder










Neither does Canada or Japan









My theory may have some holes in it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Neither does Canada or Japan









My theory may have some holes in it.


Canada Sucks.









Can't say anything bad about a Country who gave me Colecovision, Nintendo, Sony, manufactures my TIM, and doesn't have a real speed limit. You can blow right by cops there and they won't do anything about it. Mostly cause they don't have the car to catch most speeders. There are a million things I like about Japan.









~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Canada sucks?? Do you have any explanation to say this?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14396446*
> Canada sucks?? Do you have any explanation to say this?


Don't mind him... he hasn't had his Labatt Blue today.

Personally... I like La Fin du Monde.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14396718*
> Don't mind him... he hasn't had his Labatt Blue today.
> 
> Personally... I like La Fin du Monde.


Meh, actually I like St. Pauli









Canada doesn't really suck but I wouldn't live there on a bet.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey hey hey, lets get away from hating on people's countries in an international forum









plus, my fiance is from Toronto


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14397378*
> hey hey hey, lets get away from hating on people's countries in an international forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> plus, my fiance is from Toronto


I agree, soon people will start in on aliens like myself and tell me to get off the planet lol

And my ex wife is from Holland so we made a perfect couple till she wanted to talk all the time lol


----------



## logan666

some better pics


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14397344*
> Meh, actually I like St. Pauli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Canada doesn't really suck but I wouldn't live there on a bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I guess you prefer Hell









@logan666 : Nice rig Man, great cable management in such a small case, especially with a watercooling system


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14397432*
> I guess you prefer Hell


I like warmth.









Pologize if I said this stuff out loud.









@Everybody... I just saw a vid on YouTube and the guy said to set up loop with Pump to Radiator and Radiator to CPU and CPU back to the Res. Is it me or does that just sound completely wrong.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14397676*
> I like warmth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pologize if I said this stuff out loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Everybody... I just saw a vid on YouTube and the guy said to set up loop with Pump to Radiator and Radiator to CPU and CPU back to the Res. Is it me or does that just sound completely wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


pump>rad>cpu>res??? sounds ok


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14397699*
> pump>rad>cpu>res??? sounds ok


So dumping the warm water into the Res is okay? I could see the Pump from Res after Radiator but what the guy said made me cringe.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14397836*
> So dumping the warm water into the Res is okay? I could see the Pump from Res after Radiator but what the guy said made me cringe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Loop order makes no difference. Only thing you want to keep in mind is to put the pump after the res.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14397836*
> So dumping the warm water into the Res is okay? I could see the Pump from Res after Radiator but what the guy said made me cringe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


yea, what he had is the typical setup. the temp of the water going into the res makes no difference whatsoever.

loop order doesn't really make a whole lot of difference. the only thing that is critical is to have the res right before the pump and above the pump.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

I been tinkering again, installed my old CPU block and changed tube to blue Primochill LRT, twin D5's running in serial now, much better overall load temps and easier to bleed.

Can anyone recommend a digital twin bay fan controller?


----------



## nzftw

http://pricespy.co.nz/category.php?k=1090#rparams=l=s73090489







all local.


----------



## xioros

The SuperNova









By xioros at 2011-07-25









By xioros at 2011-07-25









By xioros at 2011-07-25









By xioros at 2011-07-25


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


yea, what he had is the typical setup. the temp of the water going into the res makes no difference whatsoever.

loop order doesn't really make a whole lot of difference. the only thing that is critical is to have the res right before the pump and above the pump.


Really? I though having it Pump-block-rad-res would keep heat out of the pump,giving it longer life?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Really? I though having it Pump-block-rad-res would keep heat out of the pump,giving it longer life?


 Yeah that's what I thought too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Liighthead

Rs or rx 360 kit? With 80 - 120 cfm fans for benching?







much difference?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yeah that's what I thought too.









~Ceadder










Its how i roll anyway....seems more logical,especially when you look at the operating temps of most pumps today


----------



## wermad

I tested both the common loop setups:

1) pump>block>rad>res
2) pump>rad>block>res

There's no difference. What makes a difference is which method provides you the cleanest plumbing and having the pump after the reservoir.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioros;14399292*
> The SuperNova
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By xioros at 2011-07-25


Excellent build Xioros







, that's the first TJ11 I've seen here. It is a great case but too expensive imho


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14377731*
> I am the 886th member, thanks kevin
> 
> ...and here is my other system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics on my build logs. thanks.


I want that fan







, what brand is this fan behind you case.


----------



## Jmatt110

Build coming soon.


----------



## skyn3t

I think now i can be added to this Thread My work log is right Bellow. HaF 922 MoDed RD360 with RX360 on top Slide


----------



## Castle02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14400732*
> Yeah that's what I thought too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I've researching for my w/c build and I understood it as res>pump>rad>cpu because the pump does give off some heat and you want the coolest liquid going to your block as possible. Does the amount of heat the pump gives off not affect the temps that much?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castle02;14403176*
> I've researching for my w/c build and I understood it as res>pump>rad>cpu because the pump does give off some heat and you want the coolest liquid going to your block as possible. Does the amount of heat the pump gives off not affect the temps that much?


I doubt that it would unless you've got more components on one loop than a single pump can handle reasonably.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Thermaltake Spedo Advanced @ Inverted ATX MOD: in construction...


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;14403523*
> Thermaltake Spedo Advanced @ Inverted ATX MOD: in construction...


what kind of rad is on top? that spacing between the fans is kind of weird


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

EDIT: Is a Thermochill PA120.3 25mm.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14403580*
> what kind of rad is on top? that spacing between the fans is kind of weird


most likely a thermochill *PA*120.3. This was the old design with 25mm spacing between the fans. The new *TA*120.3 has the industry standard 15mm spacing. Thermochill made a fan shroud for this rad as an adapter for 15mm fan spacing.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14404653*
> most likely a thermochill *PA*120.3. This was the old design with 25mm spacing between the fans. The new *TA*120.3 has the industry standard 15mm spacing. Thermochill made a fan shroud for this rad as an adapter for 15mm fan spacing.


I believe they made a PA120.3 with 15mm spacing as well. I have the PA120.3 and my fans have no gaps between them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


I believe they made a PA120.3 with 15mm spacing as well. I have the PA120.3 and my fans have no gaps between them.


I did hear this, but most of the ones I see out there for sale through the retailers are 25mm ones. When news that the revised 120.3 was going to launch with 15mm spacing I think they stopped making the PA120.3 with 15mm spacing. Not sure though


----------



## tiborrr12

My first watercooled rig in 2003:










Tbred-B0 @ 2500MHz, 1.93V
ABIT NF7-S rev2.0
2x512MB TwinMOS (Winbond CH-5)
Radeon 9800 @ ~ 418/380MHz, 1.65V
Waterblocks: Morphling MK1, EK NB-1, EK-VGA R-1
Rad: Lada 1500 heatercore + 2x120mm
Pump: Hydor 1000 (after Maxijet 1000 crapped out).

Those were the days...


----------



## Farmer Boe

^^^ Dood that is SWEET! I love seeing old school watercooling builds with all the older parts we thought were so cool back in the day


----------



## RushMore1205

i have a pa120.2 and i have no spacing like that

edit, oh just looked up the shroud, interesting i have to say, never saw that before


----------



## McDown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*


My first watercooled rig in 2003:
Tbred-B0 @ 2500MHz, 1.93V
ABIT NF7-S rev2.0
2x512MB TwinMOS (Winbond CH-5)
Radeon 9800 @ ~ 418/380MHz, 1.65V
Waterblocks: Morphling MK1, EK NB-1, EK-VGA R-1
Rad: Lada 1500 heatercore + 2x120mm
Pump: Hydor 1000 (after Maxijet 1000 crapped out).

Those were the days...


Ahhh! That is so authentic! 
Tell me you've kept it.


----------



## SirNicholas

watercooledi7 by SirNicholas66
First attempt at water cooling. One of the XSPC Kits, not to bad.


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14405294*
> i have a pa120.2 and i have no spacing like that
> 
> edit, oh just looked up the shroud, interesting i have to say, never saw that before


some of their older marketing materials showed this gasket. it was usually one piece. when I purchased my 140.3 from sidewinder it showed it in the picture but was not in the box. doesn't really matter.

frozen cpu carries some very high quality rubber gaskets that are about 1/8 - 1/4" in height.


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirNicholas;14406207*
> watercooledi7 by SirNicholas66
> First attempt at water cooling. One of the XSPC Kits, not to bad.


The heatshrinks on your 24 pin is waaaay too long, almost turning into an eyesore. Other than that, very nice.


----------



## yang88she

my first watercooled rig










2005

Area-51® 5550

Processor: Intel® Pentium® 4 Processor 550 w/ HT Technology 3.4GHz 1MB Cache @ 4.4GHz
Motherboard: Alienware® PCI Express Motherboard with Intel® 925XE Chipset 1066/800MHz FSB
Memory: 1GB Dual Channel DDR2 SDRAM at 533MHz - 2 x 512MB
Graphics Processor: ATI RADEON™ X850 XT Platinum Edition PCI Express 256MB DDR3 w/ Dual Digital and TV Out

Watercooling:

1. Storm Silver G5 ½" barbs:
(ordered: 10/06/04 received: 6/18/05)
2. Thermochill 120.3:
3. MCP 655 ½":
4. ViperJohn's ViperFang WB/Voltmod ½":
(ordered: 05/23/05 received: 06/02/05)
5. 4 ft. ½" Silicone Blue Tubing:
6. Brass Clamps:
7. AS5:
8. 6 Themaltake Fans 93.7CFM:
9. 1 Gallon Distilled water:
10. Isopropyl Alcohol:
11. Hy-per Lube Super Coolant:
12. Dangerden Drain Plug:


----------



## zenoxide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jmatt110;14402183*
> Build coming soon.


Can't wait to see this!


----------



## SirNicholas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliaus;14408969*
> The heatshrinks on your 24 pin is waaaay too long, almost turning into an eyesore. Other than that, very nice.


lol i guess never really noticed, but thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SirNicholas*


lol i guess never really noticed, but thanks


Actually, it IS a bit long. 15mm is plenty. Cut your shrink around 15mm and run it up the connector to just behind the square head where the stops are at. Should leave you between 4 to 5mm showing outside of the connector.









Your system looks great otherwise.









~Ceadder


----------



## Liighthead

jeeeeze! carnt wait for that build quoted up their :O


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aliaus*


The heatshrinks on your 24 pin is waaaay too long, almost turning into an eyesore. Other than that, very nice.


lol it looks like that cause he didnt do it, he bought those sleeved extentesions, that MOdRight makes i think


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 12Cores

Added a new plexi-glass siding to case - 4gb more of RAM.


----------



## bundymania

Step by Step, the Case is equiped with HW and Watercooling Stuff


----------



## SirNicholas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


lol it looks like that cause he didnt do it, he bought those sleeved extentesions, that MOdRight makes i think


 Modright is correct, guess i just got lazy toward the end. This being my first build an all i was to excited to get it up an running. It almost felt like it took forever to get all the parts lol. But thanks everyone, you guys are always so much help here at OCN.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Step by Step, the Case is equiped with HW and Watercooling Stuff



















Ooh, M8 or M10?


----------



## lollingtonbear

sold my old watercooled computer a little while ago but kept the case and most of the wc parts.

After getting some advice from Lee17 about installing a rad in the top of the K58 I got out my 939 and 8800, feels like 2007 again










back of the case









top, the radiator is mounted inside









front view









the finishing touches

















parts used: xpsc 750, RS240, xspc Delta cpu block, phobya fittings, tfc purple hose

what do you think ocn?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I think you are weird...


----------



## Triangle

Why have you got a Pinnaple in you computer?


----------



## lollingtonbear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle;14418296*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why have you got a Pinnaple in you computer?


its only temporary, I took it out after the picture


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle;14418296*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why have you got a Pinnaple in you computer?


hahaha, I have the same question. his fav fruit is pineapple, lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle;14418296*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why have you got a Pinnaple in you computer?


Didn't you know it's Samoan tradition to sacrifice pineapple when watercooling a system?









What you don't see there is the little trough where the system flows through and promotes the top to root. Once it's sprouted roots it's removed and planted for the next harvest. It's the ultimate Green Machine.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## nzftw

Watch out there's an evil pinapp....oh ^

Hope it doesnt grow a little and start messing with your GPU fan


----------



## ttoadd.nz

I wouldnt call it a pineapple, just the pineapple stalk perhaps? It would look letter with a whole pineapple tho, or even several cans of sliced pineapples nicely arranged... I dunno. crap, I feel like pineapples now...


----------



## wermad

Pineapple crown adds 30fps to Metro


----------



## Aliaus

crossfire it for 60


----------



## Indulgence

why not throw in some other fruits in there and you can start making a living..


----------



## NitrousX

You guys crack me up ahaha.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence;14421969*
> why not throw in some other fruits in there and you can start making a living..


And make a HAF fruit cocktail?????


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14425840*
> And make a HAF fruit cocktail?????


hahahahaha


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14425840*
> And make a HAF fruit cocktail?????


"And I've got a fruit cocktail in my pocket."

"A fruit cocktail?"

"Well, HAF a fruit cocktail anyway. I gave the rest to Jeremy."

"What can he do with HAF a fruit cocktail?"

"Fix it to keep his EK from corroding!"


----------



## Johnsen

What temps ar you getting on that Pinapple?


----------



## grishkathefool

I was thinking it was a Spongebob tribute.


----------



## White Phantom

Here is my watercooled rig, for now only the cpu got all the parts from frozencpu.com.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;14427240*
> "And I've got a fruit cocktail in my pocket."
> 
> "A fruit cocktail?"
> 
> "Well, HAF a fruit cocktail anyway. I gave the rest to Jeremy."
> 
> "What can he do with HAF a fruit cocktail?"
> 
> "Fix it to keep his EK from corroding!"


Valvehead... we need to take this show on the road!!!


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Phantom;14429048*
> Here is my watercooled rig, for now only the cpu got all the parts from frozencpu.com.


The top griaphics card must be feeling summer all the time.


----------



## Philth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14400732*
> Yeah that's what I thought too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


This might be a little late and has probably been said already but, ftr:

Temperature equalizes throughout the entire loop. Consider the speed at which the water is flowing and the relatively small size of the loop. You're not going to see a noticeable difference in temperature from one part of the loop to the other, so it really doesn't matter what order you put your rads/blocks. That being said, having your res above the pump makes priming the pump easier when you first fill your loop.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


The top griaphics card must be feeling summer all the time.


Yeah, there is like 1mm of space between the cards, they are at 975/1350 and 1250 mV the idle is 55 for the top and 40 for the bottom fan speed at 42 for top and 35 for bottom, it starts to get really hot when i play games. Once i get some money in the future i plan on adding a second loop for the gpus the rad will go under the case right under the hard drive bays.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philth;14429679*
> This might be a little late and has probably been said already but, ftr:
> 
> Temperature equalizes throughout the entire loop. Consider the speed at which the water is flowing and the relatively small size of the loop. You're not going to see a noticeable difference in temperature from one part of the loop to the other, so it really doesn't matter what order you put your rads/blocks. That being said, having your res above the pump makes priming the pump easier when you first fill your loop.












if only everyone did their research when going into watercooling!


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*











if only everyone did their research when going into watercooling!


I think depending on the set-up. If you have multiple rad, it makes sense to be careful with the arrangement.

Example of two rad that will make a difference:
RES>PUMP>CPU>RAD>GPU>RAD

In the arrangement above, CPU will make the water hot and before it passes the GPU, the RAD will dissipate some heat. Overall water temp will make no difference in this arrangement, but the GPU temp when arranged in a correct manner will be a bit cooler compared to the loop going from CPU straight to GPU.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*











if only everyone did their research when going into watercooling!


Wait, what?









Me thinking carefully about which way to set up my loop means I didn't do research? Are you kidding or what?









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Wait, what?









Me thinking carefully about which way to set up my loop means I didn't do research? Are you kidding or what?









~Ceadder










This wasn't a dig at anyone, just complimenting the post


----------



## Aliaus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Philth*


This might be a little late and has probably been said already but, ftr:

Temperature equalizes throughout the entire loop. Consider the speed at which the water is flowing and the relatively small size of the loop. You're not going to see a noticeable difference in temperature from one part of the loop to the other, so it really doesn't matter what order you put your rads/blocks. That being said, having your res above the pump makes priming the pump easier when you first fill your loop.


Ahhhhhh please don't say equalize, this implies that the water in every part of the loop is the same temperature. It's more appropriate to use stabilize or equilibrium. And loop order DOES matter, it's better to put a rad in between blocks if you can than to chain your blocks and then string multiple rads at the end. But in all cases, pump after and under res.


----------



## CloudX

Not as swanky as many of these sick rigs on here, but I gotta jump in


----------



## bundymania

A bit of everything


----------



## Philth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


I think depending on the set-up. If you have multiple rad, it makes sense to be careful with the arrangement.

Example of two rad that will make a difference:
RES>PUMP>CPU>RAD>GPU>RAD

In the arrangement above, CPU will make the water hot and before it passes the GPU, the RAD will dissipate some heat. Overall water temp will make no difference in this arrangement, but the GPU temp when arranged in a correct manner will be a bit cooler compared to the loop going from CPU straight to GPU.


I think you'll find even in this case that the water temperature remains the same throughout the entire loop.

Of course this would be easy to prove / disprove by placing temperature sensors at any points of the loop and comparing the readings (I would do this if I had the equipment).

My guess is that there is an unnoticeable (or, at the very least, unnotable) difference between the readings.


----------



## superhead91

Anyone else here have a 1090T at around 4GHz? I'm just wondering if my temps are normal. Running prime95 at 4.2GHz at 1.47v my temps were getting up to like 58-59C. I've only got 4 fans on my PA120.3 at the moment, but I kinda thought my temps should be better than that...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

What's with the spam? First my sale thread and now here? Someone needs a good smack upside the head.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


I think depending on the set-up. If you have multiple rad, it makes sense to be careful with the arrangement.

Example of two rad that will make a difference:
RES>PUMP>CPU>RAD>GPU>RAD

In the arrangement above, CPU will make the water hot and before it passes the GPU, the RAD will dissipate some heat. Overall water temp will make no difference in this arrangement, but the GPU temp when arranged in a correct manner will be a bit cooler compared to the loop going from CPU straight to GPU.


At the speed the water travels through the system, the CPU would have to dump close to 300watts of heat into it to change the temp of the passing water by a single degree. You won't see a change unless you are dumping a TON of heat into the system in one go, like a quad SLI 580 setup just before the CPU.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14435132*
> Anyone else here have a 1090T at around 4GHz? I'm just wondering if my temps are normal. Running prime95 at 4.2GHz at 1.47v my temps were getting up to like 58-59C. I've only got 4 fans on my PA120.3 at the moment, but I kinda thought my temps should be better than that...


What's the ambient?


----------



## t-ramp

So... I have some stuff from Koolance coming today for my GPU-cooling experiment. I'll be using a MCP355 with a XSPC reservoir top, a RX240, and an Enzotech Sapphire on my video card. The pump/reservoir and radiator will mounted on the top of my lovely HP case, so it should be rather interesting. Hopefully everything will go smoothly and I'll have some pictures to post sometime.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14436230*
> What's the ambient?


Not 100% sure... I'll check the thermostat when I go home for lunch and let you know.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14436440*
> Not 100% sure... I'll check the thermostat when I go home for lunch and let you know.


cool because that does play a big part in your overall temps. just as a reference, i could hit 62*C in prime95 with an ambient temp of about 32*C (89-90*F).


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philth;14434732*
> I think you'll find even in this case that the water temperature remains the same throughout the entire loop.
> 
> Of course this would be easy to prove / disprove by placing temperature sensors at any points of the loop and comparing the readings (I would do this if I had the equipment).
> 
> My guess is that there is an unnoticeable (or, at the very least, unnotable) difference between the readings.


So you're saying that the temperature of water going into a radiator is going to be the same as the temperature out?

Think about this:

You have a GTX580 kicking out heat into the water. The water goes into the waterblock at 20'c and comes out at 21'c. The water is absorbs the heat. Next the 21'c water goes into a radiator, which cools the water back too 20'c. The 20'c water then goes threw a pump and res, the 20'c water goes back into the card to absorb more heat.

If your theory worked, we wouldn't need pumps.


----------



## theAlexandria

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14437479*
> So you're saying that the temperature of water going into a radiator is going to be the same as the temperature out?
> 
> Think about this:
> 
> You have a GTX580 kicking out heat into the water. The water goes into the waterblock at 20'c and comes out at 21'c. The water is absorbs the heat. Next the 21'c water goes into a radiator, which cools the water back too 20'c. The 20'c water then goes threw a pump and res, the 20'c water goes back into the card to absorb more heat.
> 
> If your theory worked, we wouldn't need pumps.


While you're correct, I believe he was trying to say that the system reaches an equilibrium so that no matter how a loop is setup, there is rarely a dramatic change in temps.


----------



## rheicel

is the diagram below correct?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Ceadderman

No Res? If there is, where in the loop is it?









~Ceadder


----------



## Canis-X

Maybe a T-Fill line??


----------



## rheicel

Here, with a res



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I'm thinking something along this line too. I will be getting my Fillport Res and Tport this week. But we won't know unless it's laid out with a Res. Could be that he's considering doing like I'm going to be doing and using a Pump/Res with Fillport connected to T fittings. I'm thinking that his pump is a Pump/Res. Just didn't want to verbalize that assumption.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Philth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


So you're saying that the temperature of water going into a radiator is going to be the same as the temperature out?

Think about this:

You have a GTX580 kicking out heat into the water. The water goes into the waterblock at 20'c and comes out at 21'c. The water is absorbs the heat. Next the 21'c water goes into a radiator, which cools the water back too 20'c. The 20'c water then goes threw a pump and res, the 20'c water goes back into the card to absorb more heat.

If your theory worked, we wouldn't need pumps.


You're thinking too much about theoretic ideals and not enough about real-world results.

In large-scale cooling systems (think outside of PCs) this can be true, but think for a second the relative size of your pc loop and then the speed at which your pump is pushing that water. The water is not sitting above your block long enough to absorb enough heat to make a notable difference from when it went into the block to when it came out. The water eventually accumulates heat, but it's gradual as it reaches stability throughout the loop.

This isn't "my theory"; this is generally accepted that the water in your loop reaches an equilibrium, at which point the order in which you place blocks/rads becomes moot.

But, feel free to grab some temperature readings and see for yourself. In fact, it would be good to get hard evidence to clear up the issue for everyone.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


So you're saying that the temperature of water going into a radiator is going to be the same as the temperature out?

Think about this:

You have a GTX580 kicking out heat into the water. The water goes into the waterblock at 20'c and comes out at 21'c. The water is absorbs the heat. Next the 21'c water goes into a radiator, which cools the water back too 20'c. The 20'c water then goes threw a pump and res, the 20'c water goes back into the card to absorb more heat.

If your theory worked, we wouldn't need pumps.


You realize the energy it takes to heat up water? it is a TON which is why water cooling is so effective, it can absorb a ton of heat without heating up.
Same goes for the other way around, it will also release a ton of heat without cooling down. 
If you have taken Chem, it would be the specific heat, which is the amount of energy it takes to heat one gram of water, one degree centigrade. That would equal one calorie by the way.

if you look at how much heat it dumped into the loop per second by a video card, and compare that to how much water is passing through the GPU block in that same second, it would take more energy then the GPU is putting out to heat the water that much.


----------



## CRosko42

Well I finished my minor case mod (first time cutting a case up







) so I can finally post some pictures and join. RX240 with ap-15's in push/pull, ek supreme hf nickel block, 750 pump/res combo, bitspower compression fittings, primochill uv blue 1/2, 3/4 tubing. I need to pick up some 45's to clean up the tubing a bit.

Also, need to get a couple 120mm grills as this dual grill is a bit ugly with the overhangs.

Excuse the awful quality, my phones camera sucks and its the only camera I have...

Before:









After:









Inside:









Planning on modding the front to take an rs360 push/pull and put my gpu's under water this winter. xspc Pump/res is just to tide me over for now as I got a great deal on it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Philth*


You're thinking too much about theoretic ideals and not enough about real-world results.

In large-scale cooling systems (think outside of PCs) this can be true, but think for a second the relative size of your pc loop and then the speed at which your pump is pushing that water. The water is not sitting above your block long enough to absorb enough heat to make a notable difference from when it went into the block to when it came out. The water eventually accumulates heat, but it's gradual as it reaches stability throughout the loop.

This isn't "my theory"; this is generally accepted that the water in your loop reaches an equilibrium, at which point the order in which you place blocks/rads becomes moot.

But, feel free to grab some temperature readings and see for yourself. In fact, it would be good to get hard evidence to clear up the issue for everyone.


You can control the rate of flow correct? So if you slow the rate of flow until the temps change and finding the sweet spot wouldn't his stance make sense? That the Temp at the CPU would be higher than the temp out of the Radiatior? Hypothetically speaking?










~Ceadder


----------



## Aidan

Maybe if people think of it as all the tiny water particles flowing around, each picking up a tiny bit of heat at blocks then dumping that tiny bit of heat at a rad. Then think of how many millions of those particles there are and how fast they are flowing through the loop.

It's a continuous cycle. Water doesn't just sit in a block until it feels toasty enough to move on, it's like a conveyer belt for heat.


----------



## Kinru

I believe it is something around 300W (could be 250 I forget) for every 1 degree of difference. Meaning that if your water passes through your GPU going at full power (let's say they are putting out 300W of heat) then the water that comes out of the block will be merely 1 degree higher than the water going in. The difference in temperature throughout your loop will NEVER vary by more than a couple degrees at most because your radiators dissipate the heat that is being pumped in.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Philth*


You're thinking too much about theoretic ideals and not enough about real-world results.

In large-scale cooling systems (think outside of PCs) this can be true, but think for a second the relative size of your pc loop and then the speed at which your pump is pushing that water. The water is not sitting above your block long enough to absorb enough heat to make a notable difference from when it went into the block to when it came out. The water eventually accumulates heat, but it's gradual as it reaches stability throughout the loop.

This isn't "my theory"; this is generally accepted that the water in your loop reaches an equilibrium, at which point the order in which you place blocks/rads becomes moot.

But, feel free to grab some temperature readings and see for yourself. In fact, it would be good to get hard evidence to clear up the issue for everyone.


While you've only got a CPU in the loop you are correct in saying 
Quote:



The water is not sitting above your block long enough to absorb enough heat to make a notable difference from when it went into the block to when it came out.


 but once you've got several hundred Watts of heat being absorbed by the water, a notable increase in temperature is seen. For instance, if you load up both of my graphics cards and my CPU, the water coming out of the final block is noticeably warmer.

In a loop like mine, I'm looking for the best possible temperatures for my CPU. This is why my loop is setup in such a way. If I was to run the opposite way around with my pump and GPUs before the CPU, I'd bet that I would see a increase in both idle and load CPU temperatures.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


You realize the energy it takes to heat up water? it is a TON which is why water cooling is so effective, it can absorb a ton of heat without heating up.
Same goes for the other way around, it will also release a ton of heat without cooling down. 
If you have taken Chem, it would be the specific heat, which is the amount of energy it takes to heat one gram of water, one degree centigrade. That would equal one calorie by the way.

if you look at how much heat it dumped into the loop per second by a video card, and compare that to how much water is passing through the GPU block in that same second, it would take more energy then the GPU is putting out to heat the water that much.


So, what if you happen to have a budget system? One with a low flow pump and multiple waterblocks.

Your statement 
Quote:



water cooling is so effective, it can absorb a ton of heat without heating up.


 is obviously incorrect. Think about what you are saying there. Heats go to go somewhere, right?

My three water blocks are absorbing upwards of 500 Watt of heat. For the water to be negligibly warmer, you would have to have hugely huge flow rates.

The optimum (For CPU and GPU temp) setup is this:

Res > Pump > Rad > CPU > GPU > Res

Ensures the Res is feeding the pump, the pump is pushing, not sucking and minimum heat from the pump reaches the CPU also.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tippy25

There will always be temperature variations between different points in the loop. Saying that after a certain amount of time the placement of rads/blocks becomes moot because the temperature is the same throughout is simply false. The water will always be a bit warmer after a block and a bit cooler after a rad, and placement of these elements in the loop will make a difference. How large of a difference depends on the speed of the water flow and the power output of the computer. Temperature probes for our application may not be sensitive enough to pick up this difference, but there is still a difference there. But in all, you'll likely only see a few tenths of a degree difference due to the speed of the water flow.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kinru*


I believe it is something around 300W (could be 250 I forget) for every 1 degree of difference. Meaning that if your water passes through your GPU going at full power (let's say they are putting out 300W of heat) then the water that comes out of the block will be merely 1 degree higher than the water going in. The difference in temperature throughout your loop will NEVER vary by more than a couple degrees at most because your radiators dissipate the heat that is being pumped in.


that depends... and the 300w per 1c is dependent on flow rate.

I know that my res temp rises a whole lot when the computer is under load vs. when it is at idle, far more than one or two degrees difference.


----------



## andrewmchugh




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## rheicel

Good discussion going on in here, its a healthy one! I am sure OP will allow us to give lots of views related to watercooling.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


Good discussion going on in here, its a healthy one! I am sure OP will allow us to give lots of views related to watercooling.


it's part of what I made the thread for


----------



## Philth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tippy25*


There will always be temperature variations between different points in the loop. Saying that after a certain amount of time the placement of rads/blocks becomes moot because the temperature is the same throughout is simply false. The water will always be a bit warmer after a block and a bit cooler after a rad, and placement of these elements in the loop will make a difference. How large of a difference depends on the speed of the water flow and the power output of the computer. *Temperature probes for our application may not be sensitive enough to pick up this difference, but there is still a difference there. But in all, you'll likely only see a few tenths of a degree difference due to the speed of the water flow.*


This is why the point is moot. It is debatable, sure, and theoretically true that there will be a difference in temperature, but not enough of a difference to make an assumption that rad/block placements affect any real world performance.

We already established that the water temperature reaches an "equilibrium" not the "same throughout", although that becomes mostly semantics for the purposes of a pc water cooling enthusiast.

I understand that the temperature will not be exactly the same throughout, but I doubt you will see as much as a degree difference between water entering your block and exiting; it's simply moving too fast to absorb the required amount of energy.

At the end of the day just remember place your rads/blocks in whichever way best fits and makes the most sense for routing as this will have more of an impact just in sheer convenience than anything else.

I really hope someone just drops temperature probes in their loop which would settle this fairly quickly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*

So, what if you happen to have a budget system? One with a low flow pump and multiple waterblocks.


Even the lowest budget pump is still pushing that water fairly fast... And now we're just talking hypothetical situations which really is the problem and why everyone is getting so worked up. What is of concern is the real-world performance and if there's any measurable difference that would make placing your rads in front of your blocks a worthwhile practice.


----------



## ASO7

new fittings...


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



I really hope someone just drops temperature probes in their loop which would settle this fairly quickly.


I am also very keen to see this!


----------



## tippy25

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Philth*


This is why the point is moot. It is debatable, sure, and theoretically true that there will be a difference in temperature, but not enough of a difference to make an assumption that rad/block placements affect any real world performance.

We already established that the water temperature reaches an "equilibrium" not the "same throughout", although that becomes mostly semantics for the purposes of a pc water cooling enthusiast.

I understand that the temperature will not be exactly the same throughout, but I doubt you will see as much as a degree difference between water entering your block and exiting; it's simply moving too fast to absorb the required amount of energy.

At the end of the day just remember place your rads/blocks in whichever way best fits and makes the most sense for routing as this will have more of an impact just in sheer convenience than anything else.

I really hope someone just drops temperature probes in their loop which would settle this fairly quickly.

Even the lowest budget pump is still pushing that water fairly fast... And now we're just talking hypothetical situations which really is the problem and why everyone is getting so worked up. What is of concern is the real-world performance and if there's any measurable difference that would make placing your rads in front of your blocks a worthwhile practice.


Block/rad placement is not moot. You'll see different temperatures if you do block>rad>block>rad than if you do block>block>rad>rad. Now if you're arguing whether cpu should go before gpu w/ a rad in between, then yes, I'll agree that is moot. But you can't dismiss all block/rad placements as equivalent because that just isn't the case.


----------



## Ceadderman

They're cheap enough and my board has 3 temp sensors, so I think I'll add probes to my next order from PPCs'.









How do you think I should proceed? Run a week straight w/o probes to gain a base temp(CPU & MoBo) and then run with Probes for a week on Max flow rate and a week on minimum flow rate?









~Ceadder


----------



## Aliaus

The statement of "loop order does not matter" varies. The level of "matter" is proportional to

{[(number of blocks)*(number of radiators)] / (pump speed)} - k

Imagine a pump that pushes near infinite liters/hour. This is equivalent to every molecule of water being in every block and rad at the same time and is the only scenario where water temp "equalizes" throughout the loop.

If you go to the other extreme with a pump that pushes 0 liters/hour, then you'll have boiling water at the blocks and ambient water at the rads (ignoring natural convection).


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ASO7*


new fittings...


----------



## skyn3t

is that normal having this condensation in my RES, my temps are right and very good cpu max 65c, gpu max 52c, this is new loop Res>Rad>Cpu>GPU, if you guys need pic's of my loop just check on my work Log below.


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyn3t*


is that normal having this condensation in my RES, my temps are right and very good cpu max 65c, gpu max 52c, this is new loop Res>Rad>Cpu>GPU, if you guys need pic's of my loop just check on my work Log below.











I have condensation in my res too, im pretty sure its fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Depending on your area and the humidity I would say that's normal. But I don't know where you reside and I cannot unequivocally state with absolute certainty that it is normal. But if you ever saw one of those weather forecasters with the handblown glass pitchers and blue liquid you would understand what I'm getting at.


















~Ceadder


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Depending on your area and the humidity I would say that's normal. But I don't know where you reside and I cannot unequivocally state with absolute certainty that it is normal. But if you ever saw one of those weather forecasters with the handblown glass pitchers and blue liquid you would understand what I'm getting at.


















~Ceadder










MD - 20874 state location







my room temp is around 23c


----------



## ShortySmalls

Sorry for the crappy pic, took with my HTC's camera


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


Sorry for the crappy pic, took with my HTC's camera
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/5324/imag0020sc.jpg


according in what I'm sse now you have some condensation too right and definitely that pics is crappy







( you said that ) I'm only repeat it bah. one more think looks like you have how did you loop is setup ?

looks like res-pump-gpu-rad-cpu-res, looks like when you cpu dump in the res ist make lot noise


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyn3t*


MD - 20874 state location







my room temp is around 23c


Tmp and humidity are two different beasties. Yes it does play a part in temps but it's more about the density of the atmosphere.

Having spent time on the East Coast, primarily Norfolk VA, I'd say yes it's normal being in an area known for its humidity during the Summer. I lived in Philly, Norfolk and Pascagoula MS spending a combined 3 years there. Spent 4 Jul '89 in Maryland listening to the 1812 overture at Gettysburg. Was very enjoyable and the Junebugs were out in force.

So yes that would be normal unless you're running AC 24/7.









~Ceadder


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyn3t*


according in what I'm sse now you have some condensation too right and definitely that pics is crappy







( you said that ) I'm only repeat it bah. one more think looks like you have how did you loop is setup ?

looks like res-pump-gpu-rad-cpu-res, looks like when you cpu dump in the res ist make lot noise


yes thats how my loop goes, and i have one of the tubes installed at the top so the water dumping from the cpu goes down the tube which ends just below the water level


----------



## rheicel

Guys,

I bought my first EK kit, the D5 Dual Top, I can only say that I am very impressed with the quality and packaging. I can now say that this kit is not overpriced! (IMO)



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7;14443118*
> new fittings...


Bits Power fittings with red O rings, that's a new one for me, looks good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;14444127*
> is that normal having this condensation in my RES, my temps are right and very good cpu max 65c, gpu max 52c, this is new loop Res>Rad>Cpu>GPU, if you guys need pic's of my loop just check on my work Log below.


Perfectly normal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14446121*
> Guys,
> 
> I bought my first EK kit, the D5 Dual Top, I can only say that I am very impressed with the quality and packaging. I can now say that this kit is not overpriced! (IMO)


Nice piece of EK kit you have there. I've been extremely happy with every piece of EK kit I've brought and I'm sure you will be too.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Nice piece of EK kit you have there. I've been extremely happy with every piece of EK kit I've brought and I'm sure you will be too.


Yeah, thanks Willhemmens. The reason I tried EK is because I am so curious why most people like their product. I am extrmely stoked! lol


----------



## ASO7

some other new parts...

*EK Waterblocks Supreme HF VGA*










*EK Waterblocks XT 480*










And this is the anticyclon from the *EK RES x2 Advanced 250*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14446297*
> Bits Power fittings with red O rings, that's a new one for me, looks good.


These are the new carbon black fittings:
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_67&products_id=1629


----------



## rheicel

ASO7, they look good!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7;14446916*
> 
> These are the new carbon black fittings:
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_67&products_id=1629


are they different than the matte black ones? the pics make them look the same.


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14447390*
> are they different than the matte black ones? the pics make them look the same.


Seems like they might be a dark gray, instead of black. They still look mostly matte, though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;14436238*
> So... I have some stuff from Koolance coming today for my GPU-cooling experiment. I'll be using a MCP355 with a XSPC reservoir top, a RX240, and an Enzotech Sapphire on my video card. The pump/reservoir and radiator will mounted on the top of my lovely HP case, so it should be rather interesting. Hopefully everything will go smoothly...


To follow up on this, I set my loop up - works fine, highest I saw my GPU at was 52°C compared to 80°+ previously. I'll have to do some more GPU overclocking tonight, as well as making sure my CPU clock is stable.


----------



## DrakeZ

update from my rig




























more photo at my worklog


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14447390*
> are they different than the matte black ones? the pics make them look the same.


they're less shiny and the color is like a very dark grey...
*Carbon Black*









*Matte Black*









And these are the silver models:

*Shining Silver*









*Black Sparkle*









*True Silver*









And misc.

*Bronze Age*









*Deep Blood Red*









*True Gold*


----------



## t-ramp

So the carbon is actually darker? Interesting...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

a little re arrange for 2 5870's plus waterblocks...
Shame the XFX 5870 played up instantly,black screens on furmark and kombustor after 3 minutes running at 720 and artifacts on BFBC2 after 4-5 minutes....RMA...im dreading it,seems my vendor may not be so hot after all....google,the hindsights choice...


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ;14447773*
> update from my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more photo at my worklog


Looks awesome


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Tmp and humidity are two different beasties. Yes it does play a part in temps but it's more about the density of the atmosphere.

Having spent time on the East Coast, primarily Norfolk VA, I'd say yes it's normal being in an area known for its humidity during the Summer. I lived in Philly, Norfolk and Pascagoula MS spending a combined 3 years there. Spent 4 Jul '89 in Maryland listening to the 1812 overture at Gettysburg. Was very enjoyable and the Junebugs were out in force.

So yes that would be normal unless you're running AC 24/7.









~Ceadder











Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*


yes thats how my loop goes, and i have one of the tubes installed at the top so the water dumping from the cpu goes down the tube which ends just below the water level



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Perfectly normal.



Thanks guys , like i said its is my first loop, and the idea to slide my RX360 on top of my HAF 922 its looks like CM made the case like that







, and for my first loop setup i think i did good.
thanks again


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ASO7*


some other new parts...
And this is the anticyclon from the *EK RES x2 Advanced 250*











what is that a EK Dog Tag







jk


----------



## Ceadderman

That would be kick ass for EK to make Dog Tag Bling.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

just another day at work for me:














































I was working at the back of the shop when this happened. made my day interesting!


----------



## White Phantom

OMG that is crazy!!!!! Everyone ok?


----------



## Nova.

Is that a merc? And was it a woman driver?







Sorry, had to ask...

Hope nobody was injured.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


just another day at work for me:


If that's just another day at work, I'd hate to see what happens when things get hairy!









I hope no one was hurt.


----------



## morencyam

oooh work stories. can i share? look what we just got!
That's kind of scary how that happened. Good thing you were in back. Could you imagine standing behind the counter and all of the sudden there is a car coming through your store front. Hopefully nobody was injured and the damages aren't too outrageous


----------



## Kahbrohn

KGB...

Ooopppssss... And what was the reason for converting your store into drive through???


----------



## tippy25

I'm looking for advice on color choices. The lighting in the case will be primarily blue, but I think that if I go with blue tubing that it'll be too much blue. I was thinking about going with green tubing to add some contrast to the system. Does anyone have any pictures of such a setup? The case as a couple blue LED fans and I have some more blue LED fans as well as 2 blue cold cathodes that I can put in as well. Will the blue lights wash out any UV cathodes that I can get?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


just another day at work for me:














































I was working at the back of the shop when this happened. made my day interesting!


Hope you enjoy that Merc I sent you...

...looks like the transport driver has some splainin to do. Was sposed to be in the front lot with a big OCN blue bow on top.
















Glad everyone is okay. Looks like someone is pulling guard duty though.









Conte's isn't at Military Circle is it? That would be nuts if its on VB Boulevard, since there is no straight oncoming that I remember on that stretch that doesn't run into a hotel.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kahbrohn

@tippy25: Post a pix of what you have now. That will help to visualize it better and help you out. I personally have predominantly blue lighting in my case. I want to accentuate with something white for better contrast. Blue and green are on the same color hue.


----------



## tippy25

Kahbrohn, I haven't actually bought any of the parts yet, and my computer is currently disassembled. Here's a planned parts list, though:

Case: Lian-Li PC-K62
Res: Koolance 401-X2
CPU Block: Koolance CPU-370 (AMD)
GPU Block: Koolance VID-AR687 (single)
Radiator will be mounted externally with Aerocool Shark blue LED fans


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *White Phantom*


OMG that is crazy!!!!! Everyone ok?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nova.*


Is that a merc? And was it a woman driver?







Sorry, had to ask...

Hope nobody was injured.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *valvehead*


If that's just another day at work, I'd hate to see what happens when things get hairy!









I hope no one was hurt.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *morencyam*


oooh work stories. can i share? look what we just got!
That's kind of scary how that happened. Good thing you were in back. Could you imagine standing behind the counter and all of the sudden there is a car coming through your store front. Hopefully nobody was injured and the damages aren't too outrageous



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


KGB...

Ooopppssss... And what was the reason for converting your store into drive through???



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hope you enjoy that Merc I sent you...

...looks like the transport driver has some splainin to do. Was sposed to be in the front lot with a big OCN blue bow on top.
















Glad everyone is okay. Looks like someone is pulling guard duty though.









Conte's isn't at Military Circle is it? That would be nuts if its on VB Boulevard, since there is no straight oncoming that I remember on that stretch that doesn't run into a hotel.









~Ceadder










yea, no one was hurt, the old woman who was driving said that she was going to stop in the angled parking space in front of the shop and when she went to put her foot on the brake she floored the gas instead.

it was lucky, it was the only 5 minutes of the day that we did not have 10-15 people in the shop.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


yea, no one was hurt, the old woman who was driving said that she was going to stop in the angled parking space in front of the shop and when she went to put her foot on the brake she floored the gas instead.

it was lucky, it was the only 5 minutes of the day that we did not have 10-15 people in the shop.


That was close Kevin, take care overthere. Old Wonam should hire a Driver. I hope she has insurance to cover the property damage.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Good thing everyone is OK.

Also, [email protected] the guy who yells at multiple pic quoters. . .quoting multiple pics.


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14455342*
> yea, no one was hurt, the old woman who was driving said that she was going to stop in the angled parking space in front of the shop and when she went to put her foot on the brake she floored the gas instead.
> 
> it was lucky, it was the only 5 minutes of the day that we did not have 10-15 people in the shop.


Wow.









Also, I got some GPU overclocking done last night - 850c/700s/2200mMhz. Fun fun.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hope you enjoy that Merc I sent you...

...looks like the transport driver has some splainin to do. Was sposed to be in the front lot with a big OCN blue bow on top.
















Glad everyone is okay. Looks like someone is pulling guard duty though.









Conte's isn't at Military Circle is it? That would be nuts if its on VB Boulevard, since there is no straight oncoming that I remember on that stretch that doesn't run into a hotel.









~Ceadder










holy WOW!!!

thats ridiculous Kev


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


yea, no one was hurt, the old woman who was driving said that she was going to stop in the angled parking space in front of the shop and when *she went to put her foot on the brake she floored the gas instead.*

it was lucky, it was the only 5 minutes of the day that we did not have 10-15 people in the shop.


Oh my god who does that? I'm glad nobody was hurt though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


Good thing everyone is OK.

Also, [email protected] the guy who yells at multiple pic quoters. . .quoting multiple pics.










Normally I don't do that. This is one time I made an exception.







lol

Sides, for me they landed on the next page. I run 40 posts per page so I'm sure you can imagine how lengthy one page can be when you have people multiquoting pics one right after the other as it happens in the HAF club.









~Ceadder


----------



## THC Butterz

I'm considering changing out my tubing, right now I'm running 1/2 ID 3/4 OD, what size would I need to use to use the same barbs without the need for hose clamps??
BTW my latest system pic


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


I'm considering changing out my tubing, right now I'm running 1/2 ID 3/4 OD, what size would I need to use to use the same barbs without the need for hose clamps??


I'm not sure but 12mm or 7/16 ID hose would be the size you're looking for if you can find it. But most people use zips to secure their hoses.







As I see that's what you've done.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I'm not sure but 12mm or 7/16 ID hose would be the size you're looking for if you can find it. But most people use zips to secure their hoses.







As I see that's what you've done.









~Ceadder










Yep... 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs + zip ties = that tube ain't going anywhere. And if you use black tubing with black zip ties, it's practica;lly invisible unless you look closely.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yep... 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs + zip ties = that tube ain't going anywhere. And if you use black tubing with black zip ties, it's practically invisible unless you look closely.


Blue zips would work well for his current tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Blue zips would work well for his current tubing.









~Ceadder










Yeah... saw his pix after I posted. Blue zips are not that difficult to find in local hardware stores.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


I'm considering changing out my tubing, right now I'm running 1/2 ID 3/4 OD, what size would I need to use to use the same barbs without the need for hose clamps??
BTW my latest system pic


















why don't you use a red tube since you have some red inside







just match what you got and the red light inside going to pop up the red tube







just my 
0.1cents


----------



## Ceadderman

If Butterz went with Red Tubing, wider black zips would look the shiz.









~Ceadder


----------



## Canis-X

I agree that would look saWEET!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


KGB...

Ooopppssss... And what was the reason for converting your store into drive through???


Oh god that made me laugh pretty hard


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## spiderm0nkey

My Viper finally lives!!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;14463518*
> why don't you use a red tube since you have some red inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just match what you got and the red light inside going to pop up the red tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just my
> 0.1cents


Im not really up for an overkill of red, maybe black with red zipties


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14466394*
> My Viper finally lives!!


Nicely done there SpiderMonkey... I liked the first picture. That turned out nicely. The pix I quoted... I had to laugh a bit. I was looking at it and I said to myself "Damn... that machine is smoking or what?" Then I realized it was a FrozenQ Helix reservoir and it still had bubbles in it.









Over all a very good job though. You have a rig to be proud of.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14466633*
> Nicely done there SpiderMonkey... I liked the first picture. That turned out nicely. The pix I quoted... I had to laugh a bit. I was looking at it and I said to myself "Damn... that machine is smoking or what?" Then I realized it was a FrozenQ Helix reservoir and it still had bubbles in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over all a very good job though. You have a rig to be proud of.


Thanks! The bubbles in the res disappear after a few days of running, which always disappoints me as I think they look quite cool


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14466809*
> Thanks! The bubbles in the res disappear after a few days of running, which always disappoints me as I think they look quite cool


That they do BUT you know bubbles are not a watercooling systems best friend. So lets keep the bubble in our beers and out of our rigs!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14466863*
> That they do BUT you know bubbles are not a watercooling systems best friend. So lets keep the bubble in our beers and out of our rigs!


I'm with you on that one


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14466577*
> Im not really up for an overkill of red, maybe black with red zipties


Or if you can afford it you can get White UV tubing and get Lamptron Black or Red hose clamps.



















I know they're more expensive than Zips but they're reusable.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14467066*
> Or if you can afford it you can get White UV tubing and get Lamptron Black or Red hose clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know they're more expensive than Zips but they're reusable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


nice find


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14467248*
> nice find


I had clamps like those for my first build, they work pretty well


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14467248*
> nice find


Thanks. If I was getting freebie barbs with the stuff I'm buying I would have just gone with the Reds. But sing I had to buy fittings I just went with Compression fittings instead. When I put my bros system together I'm gonna get him the blue ones because he's going to have plenty of 3/8" barbs on hand. I wanted 1/2" because I overclock while he mildly clocks. Only made sense to give him the 3/8" barbs.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;14463518*
> why don't you use a red tube since you have some red inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just match what you got and the red light inside going to pop up the red tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just my
> 0.1cents


totaly agree it would look super SEXY RED lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I'm adding some Black to my setup. Hopefully next week or the week after depending on if I can pay for the compression fittings over the weekend. I just paid for Canis-X's FC block. Should I paint the nickel surface Red or should I leave it be? It's the Black Acetal version and I really don't wish to have a silver surface above my GPU. It's not a huge deal but my OCD may get the best of me.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## tippy25

Does the diameter of the tubing really affect the heat transfer that much?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25;14469527*
> Does the diameter of the tubing really affect the heat transfer that much?


Mostly for flow rate AFAIK.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25;14469527*
> Does the diameter of the tubing really affect the heat transfer that much?


not really, could change 1c-10c depending on pump tho


----------



## Nynn




----------



## wermad

Looking at all these nice builds makes me a sad panda as I don't has gpus on water yet


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Looking at all these nice builds makes me a sad panda as I don't has gpus on water yet










I know what you mean man, I really want to get my gpus on water but its quite a bit of work and more importantly a lot of money, which i dont have right now to spend on my pc...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *White Phantom*


I know what you mean man, I really want to get my gpus on water but its quite a bit of work and more importantly a lot of money, which i dont have right now to spend on my pc...


Don't feel too bad guys I've been slowly compiling my loop. It seems like it's been nothing but a painfully slow crawl at times. Especially this past June and July when temps have been hotter here than they've been in ages. Even with the sig rig in the Window and a good cross breeze flowing from the front to the back of the place it's like a sauna in here. But that's what happens when you Fold 24/7.









~Ceadder


----------



## albedokirra

Here is mine! I thank you guys for inspiring and motivating my build with all the awesome rigs in this thread.






















































































































I forgot to take a pic of the whole side panel so this is a little old but you get the idea..










I'm always willing to tear down and improve. So.. suggestions? Thanks.


----------



## White Phantom

@albedokirra wow, sweet build it looks great +1 rep


----------



## CjGemini

@albedokirra, that is truly beautiful


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14470231*
> not really, could change 1c-10c depending on pump tho


Would I see much difference between 3/8" tubing and 1/2" tubing with dual Koolance PMP-400 in series? One cpu block, one gpu block, and a big ass Phobya Xtreme Quad 480 radiator?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25;14474482*
> Would I see much difference between 3/8" tubing and 1/2" tubing with dual Koolance PMP-400 in series? One cpu block, one gpu block, and a big ass Phobya Xtreme Quad 480 radiator?


probably not


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albedokirra;14473026*
> Here is mine! I thank you guys for inspiring and motivating my build with all the awesome rigs in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to take a pic of the whole side panel so this is a little old but you get the idea..
> 
> I'm always willing to tear down and improve. So.. suggestions? Thanks.


:applaud:Top notch
"suggestions?"..1-enjoy


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Today I finished mount and motherboard is dead ........


----------



## thrasherht

Time to get a real motherboard instead of a junk MSI board.

I would recommend getting something like this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131767


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14476532*
> Time to get a real motherboard instead of a junk MSI board.
> 
> I would recommend getting something like this.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131767


Now, when I bought the MSI thought would be a "Super Board", over time I realized that they are crap.

Thinking of buying a 990FXA-UD5, look good.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;14476459*
> Today I finished mount and motherboard is dead ........


nice mod bro







(it motivates me to do redo my case)
P.S. looks like you need new MB


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14476597*
> nice mod bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (it motivates me to do redo my case)
> P.S. looks like you need new MB


thanks.

If you see ... MSI is pure marketing, MILITARY CLASS?? pfff

I'll get a 990UD5, sure looks good with the mod.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;14476575*
> Now, when I bought the MSI thought would be a "Super Board", over time I realized that they are crap.
> 
> Thinking of buying a 990FXA-UD5, look good.


I didn't know you where willing to spend a good chuck of change on a new board. That is why I picked the lower cost one.

I would recommend either the UD5 you mentioned, or this board from asus.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131735R


----------



## Ceadderman

Still doesn't fit his build though. All that blue and you pick out CHVF? Yeaaaaah um no.









Sadly there isn't alot of room to maneuver here. I'm an Asus guy but am not impressed with their ASRock division. So I would suggest the UD7. Especially over the MSi boards.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Wanted to be a good board and look good with the mod (blue / black) = UD5 is what I seek. What is missing is that is really good ...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14476849*
> Still doesn't fit his build though. All that blue and you pick out CHVF? Yeaaaaah um no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly there isn't alot of room to maneuver here. I'm an Asus guy but am not impressed with their ASRock division. So I would suggest the UD7. Especially over the MSi boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


so you aren't impressed with asrock, so???? your point being, the asus boards are still epic.
I didn't really think of the color scheme.
he could get this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131733R
or get this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131655

either would be amazing boards.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14476973*
> so you aren't impressed with asrock, so???? your point being, the asus boards are still epic.
> I didn't really think of the color scheme.
> he could get this.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131733R
> or get this.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131655
> 
> either would be amazing boards.


I agree those boards are great boards but the UD7 is better. I was just pointing out in an offhanded way that the ASRocks are supposed to be better than these two ASUS boards but I'm not impressed by them so I would suggest the better board that fits his color scheme. That's all I was saying. Not that the ASUS boards suck. Just they aren't the best in this instance.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## White Phantom

I had an msi x58 for a long time and had no problems with it, i never even knew ppl hated msi so much lol, i upgraded recently to an asus sabertooth and the only difference i can see is.... it has 2 more sata ports (YES!!!) lol, and a couple other little things, not too concerned about mobo's they are all very similar, in the end if you find a couple that you like there will only be minor differences and you pay for bells and whistles...

p.s. keep in mind this is all coming from a gamers perspective, and i have not seen any gains from switching mobo's... i dunno about other non-gaming uses so plz don't flame...


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Phantom;14477845*
> I had an msi x58 for a long time and had no problems with it, i never even knew ppl hated msi so much lol, i upgraded recently to an asus sabertooth and the only difference i can see is.... it has 2 more sata ports (YES!!!) lol, and a couple other little things, not too concerned about mobo's they are all very similar, in the end if you find a couple that you like there will only be minor differences and you pay for bells and whistles...
> 
> p.s. keep in mind this is all coming from a gamers perspective, and i have not seen any gains from switching mobo's... i dunno about other non-gaming uses so plz don't flame...


Msi uses cheap moffsets and vrms while bragging about there military spec copasitors, I myself am among the millions that have killed a msi mobo


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14477920*
> Msi uses cheap moffsets and vrms while bragging about there military spec copasitors, I myself am among the millions that have killed a msi mobo


Oh, I never knew that, well i guess i probably wont be buying msi anytime soon... btw i sold my msi x58 pro e to a guy on craigslist for $90, i hope it doesn't die on him, that would kinda suck...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Phantom;14477845*
> I had an msi x58 for a long time and had no problems with it, i never even knew ppl hated msi so much lol, i upgraded recently to an asus sabertooth and the only difference i can see is.... it has 2 more sata ports (YES!!!) lol, and a couple other little things, not too concerned about mobo's they are all very similar, in the end if you find a couple that you like there will only be minor differences and you pay for bells and whistles...
> 
> p.s. keep in mind this is all coming from a gamers perspective, and i have not seen any gains from switching mobo's... i dunno about other non-gaming uses so plz don't flame...


_Flaaaaaaaaaaaaaammmmmmeeee!_









I'm pretty sure he wants to OC as well.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14477993*
> _Flaaaaaaaaaaaaaammmmmmeeee!_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure he wants to OC as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I SAID NO FLAMING!! *starts crying*

lol, i was overclocked on that board to like 4.1 on my i7-930, guess i was one of the luck few that had an msi board that wasn't a total piece of crap..


----------



## wermad

MSI 890Fx GD07 were the ones that went boom on the vrm(s). Based on a lot of reports and warnings from people who had this happen to them, I promptly got rid of my board and got the CHIVF. Though, that was well over a year ago so there is a chance, and that's a big if, Msi has updated and fixed this. Though I would not risk it if you are planning to run a highend Deneb or Thuban cpu and oc above 3.8.


----------



## skyn3t

I love this photo is it beautiful


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14478409*
> MSI 890Fx GD07 were the ones that went boom on the vrm(s). Based on a lot of reports and warnings from people who had this happen to them, I promptly got rid of my board and got the CHIVF. Though, that was well over a year ago so there is a chance, and that's a big if, Msi has updated and fixed this. Though I would not risk it if you are planning to run a highend Deneb or Thuban cpu and oc above 3.8.


ive been running a 890fxa-gd70 since november folding almost 24-7 at 4.2 and have had no problems out of it. the ver. 1.0 boards had a problem with the vrm heatsinks not making contact from the factory that was (largely) addressed in the ver. 1.1 boards. the new 990fxa-gd80 have 8+2 just like all the other boards, so i don't expect any problems out of it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eloverton2;14478467*
> ive been running a 890fxa-gd70 since november folding almost 24-7 at 4.2 and have had no problems out of it. the ver. 1.0 boards had a problem with the vrm heatsinks not making contact from the factory that was (largely) addressed in the ver. 1.1 boards. the new 990fxa-gd80 have 8+2 just like all the other boards, so i don't expect any problems out of it.


Good to know there's a revision, tnx +1


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> I love this photo is it beautiful


Me too!


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albedokirra;14473026*


Amazing. One of the best I've seen. What tubing is that?


----------



## nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138;14483435*
> Amazing. One of the best I've seen. What tubing is that?


Looks like feser's "caribean blue"

http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=277


----------



## jacobthellamer

Fill port in


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14483519*
> Looks like feser's "caribean blue"
> 
> http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=277


That must be it, thanks. That color looks amazing under UV and normal light. I think I'll go back to water cooling just so I can buy some of that tubing.


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14483519*
> Looks like feser's "caribean blue"
> 
> http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=277


His build is gonna make me switch to that tubing, it looks so badass!!!!


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eloverton2;14478467*
> ive been running a 890fxa-gd70 since november folding almost 24-7 at 4.2 and have had no problems out of it. the ver. 1.0 boards had a problem with the vrm heatsinks not making contact from the factory that was (largely) addressed in the ver. 1.1 boards. the new 990fxa-gd80 have 8+2 just like all the other boards, so i don't expect any problems out of it.


My 890FXA-GD70 was rev 1.1, but still ..... BOOM ...


----------



## White Phantom

Does anyone know if this is the exact same color?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/71...0c99s172#blank


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*


My 890FXA-GD70 was rev 1.1, but still ..... BOOM ...










Then you are cool









Lovely, lovely color combination on your rig


----------



## nzftw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *White Phantom*


Does anyone know if this is the exact same color?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/71...0c99s172#blank


Looks more like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/86...?tl=g30c99s171

Seems as though you will have to hunt for 1/2" ID...i believe the guy (cant remember who) had a thread going on which tubing to choose, primochill blue or that feser stuff....Could flick him a pm and ask where he got it.

EDIT: found it







http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ube-color.html

@jacob, looks great...whens the next mod going to start!


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Then you are cool









Lovely, lovely color combination on your rig










She was pretty, and it is not ... xD

I'm looking at the 990FXA-UD3, all black, I like. It is also cheaper than the UD5.

Do you think of this board?


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


Looks more like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/86...?tl=g30c99s171

Seems as though you will have to hunt for 1/2" ID...i believe the guy (cant remember who) had a thread going on which tubing to choose, primochill blue or that feser stuff....Could flick him a pm and ask where he got it.

EDIT: found it







http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ube-color.html

@jacob, looks great...whens the next mod going to start!










Thanks, and I think i found it here http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...e-209p1104.htm


----------



## nzftw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*


She was pretty, and it is not ... xD

I'm looking at the 990FXA-UD3, all black, I like. It is also cheaper than the UD5.

Do you think of this board?


I think the UD5 is probably better performance wise....but for looks, the UD3 can be used for different themed builds because of its simplicity in colors.

I know the UD5 can support 3 GPU's at 8x....Which is a big selling point for alot of people (right wermad?







)


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

I only use one GPU, I do not do SLI or CF, what interests me is that a good board for OC.

Difference between the UD3 and UD5, what are they? the number of PCIe and SATA? Both have 8 +2 Phase.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*


She was pretty, and it is not ... xD

I'm looking at the 990FXA-UD3, all black, I like. It is also cheaper than the UD5.

Do you think of this board?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*


I only use one GPU, I do not do SLI or CF, what interests me is that a good board for OC.

Difference between the UD3 and UD5, what are they? the number of PCIe and SATA? Both have 8 +2 Phase.


Go for the UD3 since you should still be able to crossfire/sli and its cheaper than the ud5.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


I know the UD5 can support 3 GPU's at 8x....Which is a big selling point for alot of people (right wermad?







)


Hehe







. My mb should run them 16x/8x/8x thanks to the nf200 chip







. Damn! So hard and frustrating to wait for parts and rma(s) to come in (as well as $$$).

edit: should I post pics of my current setup: pump: 480>480>cpu>res


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Go for the UD3 since you should still be able to crossfire/sli and its cheaper than the ud5.

Hehe







. My mb should run them 16x/8x/8x thanks to the nf200 chip







. Damn! So hard and frustrating to wait for parts and rma(s) to come in (as well as $$$).

edit: should I post pics of my current setup: pump: 480>480>cpu>res










Yes, pics pics and more pics, i like pics oh and btw post some pics
p.s. pics


----------



## wermad

Hehehe, Kevin don't update









My partially disassembled rig


----------



## To-tall

Here's mine just finished


----------



## Farih

2x240 and 1x120 inside one case, Nice job !


----------



## To-tall

one 120 one 240 and one 200


----------



## Farih

Still a nice job


----------



## albedokirra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138;14483435*
> Amazing. One of the best I've seen. What tubing is that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14483519*
> Looks like feser's "caribean blue"
> 
> http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=277


Yup. That's the one in .5/.75 flavor. I think I ordered the last batch from PPC but that koolertek link is the right one indeed. The frozencpu "blue" and "light blue" arent quite the same. Thanks for the love guys.

Here are some comparisons that I did when I was choosing my tubing colors if you are interested...


























I decided to stick with the carib blue.


----------



## Retrolock

Ran short of fittings, so the 580 is missing one.







(really, I messed up the other fittings, tightened too much)

Been running this setup with a new waterblock, xspc razor. 1ghz on the core was easy



























LOL intel ethernet sticker still there. Gene-z is one sweet matx mobo with overclocking capabilities.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *To-tall;14485766*
> one 120 one 240 and one 200


Wait, a 200? Can you get 100mm fans?


----------



## mironccr345

Here's mine


----------



## bundymania

I got a new D5 Top from Alphacool and some norprence tubing...looks good, but max. radius from "normal" clear Tygon is a bit better


----------



## To-tall

its the 200mm rad phobya makes with the stock 200 mm fan the 600t se comes with, fits perfect with out any modding


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacobthellamer;14483610*
> Fill port in


Nice. Pump could be lower but that's rather clean looking. Which Heatsinks are those on your 5850?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Tex1954

Wow! Sure a lot of nice looking work in here lately!

Hats off and a bow to ya'll! Nice work!


----------



## xUrban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *To-tall;14485481*
> Here's mine just finished


jw, what width fans are those that u used on the inside of the case on the 240mm rad & the 120mm rad


----------



## FreeWillzyx

I made a pretty big change in my rig. Here are a few pics. I'll take more later. I still have to put an exhaust fan on and will take more than. This thing is kind of a pain to lug around just to take pics of it!


----------



## matrices

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *To-tall;14485481*
> Here's mine just finished


Brilliant layout. What is that nifty res that has some kind of glued-in attachment holder near the PCI slots?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matrices;14490626*
> Brilliant layout. What is that nifty res that has some kind of glued-in attachment holder near the PCI slots?


It's either an EK 100 or EK 150 Multioption(looks like Basic model) Res. The mounts are attached at the grill in the rear of the Cabinet.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Castle02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *To-tall;14486871*
> its the 200mm rad phobya makes with the stock 200 mm fan the 600t se comes with, fits perfect with out any modding


Wow, a 200mm. I learned something new today.


----------



## THC Butterz

shot some video of my pc, it can be seen here

  
 You Tube


----------



## lowfat

My gaming/[email protected] machine as it currently stands. Will be moving to a 650D in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## RushMore1205

^ looks very nice, but could you of put the PSu on the buttom and all the WC stuff on mid shelf, that way you would shorten the lenght of the tubes?
or would the PSU cables not reach


----------



## coolhandluke41

Top notch lowfat (as always),welcome to OCN


----------



## Nova.

That MSI card just takes my attention away from everything else


----------



## lowfat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


^ looks very nice, but could you of put the PSu on the buttom and all the WC stuff on mid shelf, that way you would shorten the lenght of the tubes?
or would the PSU cables not reach


PSU cables are way too short. I'd need to create new wires for everything. Anyways this is my backup PSU anyways.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*


Top notch lowfat (as always),welcome to OCN


Thanks.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nova.*


That MSI card just takes my attention away from everything else










It is a monster. Pretty sure it is the biggest card I've ever used.


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


shot some video of my pc, it can be seen here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zxV4I-B6kA


nice video, great build!


----------



## THC Butterz

Just a little something to add to that blue tubing discussion a few pages ago, My tubing is the fesser clear uv with fesser one blue uv fluid, heres some pics of the reaction


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


Just a little something to add to that blue tubing discussion a few pages ago, My tubing is the fesser clear uv with fesser one blue uv fluid, heres some pics of the reaction


































Damn dude, that looks awesome! thx for sharing


----------



## THC Butterz

feser clear uv tubing, with and without uv, no fluid in either case


----------



## pmrballer123

that stuff gunks up your blocks id watch using that stuff!^


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lowfat*


*snip*


Those two 360mm rads are begging to have the 580 plumbed


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14493387*
> Those two 360mm rads are begging to have the 580 plumbed


There are no GTX 580 Lightning waterblocks at the moment. There have been talks about getting Liquid Extasy to custom make a batch. Will know by the end of the week.


----------



## Timechange01




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14493504*
> There are no GTX 580 Lightning waterblocks at the moment. There have been talks about getting Liquid Extasy to custom make a batch. Will know by the end of the week.


universal block + heatsinks


----------



## rheicel




----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14494249*


What's going on here?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;14494273*
> What's going on here?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


this is my temporary set-up on my on going build mate. I have the logs here.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmrballer123;14492700*
> that stuff gunks up your blocks id watch using that stuff!^


how so? those pics are of 2 non liquid filled UV reactant tubes, hes still gona just run regular distilled water because the tube itself is reactant, so how is his tube gona gunk up his blocks


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;14494724*
> how so? those pics are of 2 non liquid filled UV reactant tubes, hes still gona just run regular distilled water because the tube itself is reactant, so how is his tube gona gunk up his blocks


thats what i was thinking


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14486817*
> Here's mine


Nice build, great case.


----------



## mironccr345

@12cores Thanks! This was my first water cooled set up. Just finished it last week! Im already thinking of upgrades!


----------



## Atomfix

Soon, I will get a spot in here once my new parts have arrived..... hopefully Tuesday!


----------



## To-tall

@xurban those are 12mm thick fans nothing bigger will fit

@matrices its the EK-multioption 100 basic


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;14248562*
> CM scout with a 360 rad.


Cannot seem to find your 360mm Rad


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomfix;14495358*
> Cannot seem to find your 360mm Rad





Hows your knackered degraded x6? still advising 75c? i thought not......


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;14494724*
> how so? those pics are of 2 non liquid filled UV reactant tubes, hes still gona just run regular distilled water because the tube itself is reactant, so how is his tube gona gunk up his blocks


Leeching Plasticizer out of the tubing?


----------



## coolhandluke41

^ came out really nice


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;14496935*
> 
> 
> 
> Hows your knackered degraded x6? still advising 75c? i thought not......


Nice, did you cut off holes at the top for the fans? Just curious, I'm setting up 2 rads in my CM Storm on Tuesday.

And my X6 is working fine now, I thought it was degraded, I can still hit 4.0-4.2GHz just fine. I thought it was degraded when I got alot of BSOD's, which was caused by my RAM.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I went mad with the dremel and gutted the case pretty much...


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;14497042*
> I went mad with the dremel and gutted the case pretty much...


Hmmmm.... Interesting, So your hardrive's are in the 5.25 bay? Not sure whether to stick one of my rads on my side door case, whilst my other is sitting outside on the back.

Or I could try sticking both of them on the back, they would only have 2 supports each though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

No,my HDD is bolted on the backside of the Res mount.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;14497168*
> *snip*


Awesome mod B Negative


----------



## matrices

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14493737*
> universal block + heatsinks


Sadly those look like crap and even more so with multiple GPUs (MCW 60/80).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated!

(and oh my you all were busy while I was at a wedding this weekend, that was like 20 pages!)


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14502836*
> updated!
> 
> (and oh my you all were busy while I was at a wedding this weekend, that was like 20 pages!)


oh, you have finally joined us!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14501720*
> Awesome mod B Negative


Thanks wermad! You get your Blocks sorted now?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;14504868*
> Thanks wermad! You get your Blocks sorted now?


Still have yet to order them, but they will be HeatKiller since I still have the triple bridge for them and they performed great with my last application.


----------



## M0rbidDeath

Here's my recently "completed" build. I plan to cool the graphics cards in the future as well as swap the tubing for some color.


































I'd also like to take this opportunity to thank this community. I wouldn't have been able to complete this build without you guys.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

My first watercooling venture. I built this a few months ago, but have just now decided to post it up


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT;14505483*
> My first watercooling venture. I built this a few months ago, but have just now decided to post it up


That's a clean looking rig.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;14494724*
> how so? those pics are of 2 non liquid filled UV reactant tubes, hes still gona just run regular distilled water because the tube itself is reactant, so how is his tube gona gunk up his blocks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;14494832*
> thats what i was thinking


You guys missed this part (i bolded it for you):
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14492600*
> Just a little something to add to that blue tubing discussion a few pages ago, My tubing is the fesser clear uv with fesser one blue uv *fluid*, heres some pics of the reaction.












EDIT: Updated my build log with a bunch more stuff: HERE.


----------



## sethmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomfix;14497011*
> Nice, did you cut off holes at the top for the fans? Just curious, I'm setting up 2 rads in my CM Storm on Tuesday.
> 
> And my X6 is working fine now, I thought it was degraded, I can still hit 4.0-4.2GHz just fine. I thought it was degraded when I got alot of BSOD's, which was caused by my RAM.


This was my old Storm Scout. Worked pretty well, for just CPU.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sethmo;14506644*
> This was my old Storm Scout. Worked pretty well, for just CPU.


YAY, another green brother, it looks great!


----------



## wilkinsb01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sethmo;14506644*
> This was my old Storm Scout. Worked pretty well, for just CPU.


i dont like the fitting down the reservoir look like dangerous if the reservoir go down u will burn the video card |i think |


----------



## White Phantom

What did you use to make the side of ur gpu green?


----------



## EM2J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14486817*
> Here's mine


Great looking build man. Don't like the fans so much but other than that awesome.

Can't wait till I'm finished with my set up so I can contribute.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EM2J;14509407*
> Great looking build man. Don't like the fans so much but other than that awesome.
> 
> Can't wait till I'm finished with my set up so I can contribute.


Thanks! I wasn't intending on using those NF-P12's. The Silverstone AP fans didn't push as much air as I'd like. So I had some Noctua fans lying around, and I figured I'd use them to help pull air through the rad. I've actually got use to the look of the fans. It's like an acquired taste. =D But, I'm still in the market for getting better fans for my rads.


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14510030*
> Thanks! I wasn't intending on using those NF-P12's. The Silverstone AP fans didn't push as much air as I'd like. So I had some Noctua fans lying around, and I figured I'd use them to help pull air through the rad. I've actually got use to the look of the fans. It's like an acquired taste. =D But, I'm still in the market for getting better fans for my rads.


I have scythe slimpstream fans on my rad and they are great, a little loud at full power but i have them on a fan controller so i can dial them back when i need quiet or when the cpu is not under stress http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185060 and they cost less if you buy in bugger quantities!!


----------



## sethmo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wilkinsb01*


i dont like the fitting down the reservoir look like dangerous if the reservoir go down u will burn the video card |i think |


Not sure if I understand. If the CPU fittings or rad fittings leak too, the video card would be toast as well ...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *White Phantom*


What did you use to make the side of ur gpu green?


It is just green Oracal vinyl I cut with a razor. Can get it at any sign shop.


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sethmo;14511050*
> Not sure if I understand. If the CPU fittings or rad fittings leak too, the video card would be toast as well ...
> 
> It is just green Oracal vinyl I cut with a razor. Can get it at any sign shop.


Cool, thanks man!


----------



## Ceadderman

Should I paint the cross plate? If so, Black or Crimson Red? I really am not digging the satin Nickel plate. I can live with it if I have to but it doesn't fit my color scheme too well. This is the one thing that I think that EK could really have done better. Anyone know what size hex key it is?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14511794*
> Should I paint the cross plate? If so, Black or Crimson Red? I really am not digging the satin Nickel plate. I can live with it if I have to but it doesn't fit my color scheme too well. This is the one thing that I think that EK could really have done better. Anyone know what size hex key it is?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Black for me to ba safe!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Phantom;14510729*
> I have scythe slimpstream fans on my rad and they are great, a little loud at full power but i have them on a fan controller so i can dial them back when i need quiet or when the cpu is not under stress http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185060 and they cost less if you buy in bugger quantities!!


Thanks for the recommendation. I'll definitely check them out. I'm also looking into some Gelid fans or maybe wait til the new Noctua fans come out this October?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14513038*
> Black for me to ba safe!


Thanks man. I got some sandpaper (1500,2000gr) to take the 955 all the way down to the copper, just need to pick up some primer and get a plug to keep the paint from getting into the inlet of the block, once I get the color figured out I'll start in and get things a bit more aligned in the color scheme.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14515520*
> Thanks man. I got some sandpaper (1500,2000gr) to take the 955 all the way down to the copper, just need to pick up some primer and get a plug to keep the paint from getting into the inlet of the block, once I get the color figured out I'll start in and get things a bit more aligned in the color scheme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


yeah, just make sure you are going to show us some pictures. take your time in painting. Maybe 6 hours between coats to be safe. Use the 1500 or 1200 sand paper in between coats and you will be rewarded with nice, shiny, even finish..


----------



## weeble

Case: Lian-Li Pc-60fn
Radiator: Black Ice 240mm Pro II
Pump: Ocz (DD CPX-Pro)
Res: EK 250 multioption
Tubing: Primochill LRT clear
Waterblock: EK Supreme LT Copper with Acrylic top


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;14496935*
> 
> 
> 
> Hows your knackered degraded x6? still advising 75c? i thought not......


B NEGATIVE where did you get this idea? here at my sig







right below nice mod.

Work Log: Project -=:[HaF-rD360]:=- Complete


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;14517919*
> B NEGATIVE where did you get this idea? here at my sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right below nice mod.
> 
> Work Log: Project -=:[HaF-rD360]:=- Complete


It started with this...




It was an H50 mod i did a while ago,just extended it for a 360 rad.


----------



## EM2J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14510030*
> Thanks! I wasn't intending on using those NF-P12's. The Silverstone AP fans didn't push as much air as I'd like. So I had some Noctua fans lying around, and I figured I'd use them to help pull air through the rad. I've actually got use to the look of the fans. It's like an acquired taste. =D But, I'm still in the market for getting better fans for my rads.


Oh so those are 3 ap121s pushing? Was wondering what they were









And yeah those fans aren't THAT bad looking just seems sort of a color clash going on there.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## esproductions

My Phantom with H100


----------



## Canis-X

So I'm torn on what color to go with for my tubing with my setup. I intend on WB'ing my GTX590's and running two separate loops, one CPU other GPU's. My question is what color would suit my setup the best. I have a feeling that I am going to hear a lot of "red" responses but I'm not a huge fan of red.

I have a HeatKiller CPU block and I intend on getting XPSC blocks for my GPU's. My lighting is all from the case fans (white light, which is more of an off white IMO) and my fittings are all Bitspower sparkle colored......the rest you should be able to deduce from my sig. What do you think?


----------



## wermad

Black or White (or both, each loop) primochill or tygon.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Black or White (or both, each loop) primochill or tygon.


Black, tygon imo... this is what I am using.


----------



## Ceadderman

Primochill UV White. Is the shiz and it will reflect whatever color you want it to, except black of course.









Got my Fillport Res and Acrylic T fitting. Already flushed it out with Tap water and the hose and Res are sitting in the shower hanging by one of the slider rings draining. I'll run the more expensive Distilled later once I get the rest of my gear in place for the leak test. Man I have to say I really like these Comp fittings the Hose is so tight to the base that it didn't leak even though I didn't have the ring fully seated.









The inlet fitting is now comfortably seated in the top of the 932. Fit perfectly between the top and the Chassis.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


*snip*


Looks awesome


----------



## xXjay247Xx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esproductions*


My Phantom with H100



















That's one slick and clean rig.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Looks awesome










Thanks. Gonna have to put a 90 fitting on it cause with 2 bays filled and the bottom one is going to be filled(Pump/Res) it's gonna be a rather tight fit to get it in all in there.









~Ceadder


----------



## bob808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Should I paint the cross plate? If so, Black or Crimson Red? I really am not digging the satin Nickel plate. I can live with it if I have to but it doesn't fit my color scheme too well. This is the one thing that I think that EK could really have done better. Anyone know what size hex key it is?









~Ceadder










I did just that a couple of builds ago. I was doing a black/white theme and I didn't like the silver color so I disassembled it and painted it. I only painted the outside, and I taped off the inside so I didn't get any paint on it. After re-assembly, it looked like so-










I painted the cpu block too-










I like how they turned out


















I say you decide on a color and go for it. I dont think that sanding it down to the copper is nessary. Just make sure and use a good primer before painting. If you want a super-nice finish, just sand with 1200 paper after primer, and between coats.


----------



## rheicel

bob808, white looks sexy.


----------



## Ceadderman

How did you paint it? Prime then paint or scuff and paint?









I'm ready to go if it's scuff and paint. Just need to take some tape and cover the backside of the plate. Also what grit paper did you use?
















nvm _Sinja'ed_









~Ceadder


----------



## AliceInChains

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Canis-X*


So I'm torn on what color to go with for my tubing with my setup. I intend on WB'ing my GTX590's and running two separate loops, one CPU other GPU's. My question is what color would suit my setup the best. I have a feeling that I am going to hear a lot of "red" responses but I'm not a huge fan of red.

I have a HeatKiller CPU block and I intend on getting XPSC blocks for my GPU's. My lighting is all from the case fans (white light, which is more of an off white IMO) and my fittings are all Bitspower sparkle colored......the rest you should be able to deduce from my sig. What do you think?


Primo chill white. I love the look of white tubing. Personally, if you have black interior case, id go white tubing with chrome/nickel fittings. If you have a white interior case, id go black tubing with black fittings, or chrome fittings. either will look great. But I just love the look of white tubing, and it goes with almost anything.


----------



## whipple16

Here is my latest build. Flipped the mobo tray So I can have the window on the right, powder coated internals black, classy white primochill and added some acrylic over the midplate. Still need a few cable management holes and finish the new window and top window but it's always a work in progress!!


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14524713*
> How did you paint it? Prime then paint or scuff and paint?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ready to go if it's scuff and paint. Just need to take some tape and cover the backside of the plate. Also what grit paper did you use?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nvm _Sinja'ed_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I didn't sand at all. I just taped and primered then painted and it turned out nice. I'm sure you could get a nicer finish with a bit of sanding after primer though







cheers and good luck Ceadder


----------



## tippy25

Primer's primary function is to aid the color layer of paint in adhesion to the surface. With painting, 85% of the finished product comes down to prep.

Here's how I would paint something: a prep sand (start out rough to get the existing finish off, like 100 grit, then move up to 220, 400, 600, then 1000), primer, light sand (600-1000), 2nd coat of primer, another light sand (1000), color coat, light sand (1000-1500), 2nd color coat, wet sand (1500-2000).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25;14527553*
> Primer's primary function is to aid the color layer of paint in adhesion to the surface. With painting, 85% of the finished product comes down to prep.
> 
> Here's how I would paint something: a prep sand (start out rough to get the existing finish off, like 100 grit, then move up to 220, 400, 600, then 1000), primer, light sand (600-1000), 2nd coat of primer, another light sand (1000), color coat, light sand (1000-1500), 2nd color coat, wet sand (1500-2000).


That's all well and good but I'm not really interested in mounting a Brick to my FC block.









If it's a fairly large surface and no real seams to worry about your way is the best way imho. But if I'm using two coats of primer and 4 coats of paint then I'm gonna have one of those brick erasers hanging out in the middle of my board.









I'm just gonna get self etching primer and hit it with a reasonable single coat give it a dusting of color to get it where I want it letting dry between coats hit with paper and call it a day after 2 full coats I think.

Here is some Bling for y'all. Don't know which side looks better...



















_Puuuuuuure secsiness._









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mav2000

Has anyone used an XSPC dual bay with the MCP 355 inside it...is it very noisy or cause a lot of vibrations? Also the EK dual bay, how deep does it go into the 5 1/4" bays..thanks in advance.

Also, as far as the bitspower D plugs go, can they be used as QD's?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000;14528047*
> Has anyone used an XSPC dual bay with the MCP 355 inside it...is it very noisy or cause a lot of vibrations? Also the EK dual bay, how deep does it go into the 5 1/4" bays..thanks in advance.
> 
> Also, as far as the bitspower D plugs go, can they be used as QD's?


EK dual bay Res is 60mm deep. You'd have plenty of room behind one in a typical 5.25 bay.

I'm thinking you're looking at drainage for your setup? That's relatively simple.

Don't get D kit. Get one of these...







and connect a plug at one end and Compressions at the other ends for a leak free setup.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## mav2000

Thanks man...I am actually looking to setup a couple of QD's for my loop, two pairs to be exact, so that I can take out the mobo tray as and when required. Unluckily I have spent a lot of 7/16" 5/8" fittings from bitspower and now realise that Koolance QD's just wont work out as they normally have them in different sizes, other than the 1/2" barb ones, which are a pain to get...so was wondering if D plugs would work, but reading around, I guess it may not. ANy ideas on any other QD's?


----------



## bundymania

New full copper rads from Alphacool are out now....


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EM2J;14509407*
> Great looking build man. Don't like the fans so much but other than that awesome.
> 
> Can't wait till I'm finished with my set up so I can contribute.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14530716*
> New full copper rads from Alphacool are out now....


Nice, where can I order?


----------



## bundymania

Check out aquatuning.us in 1-2 weeks...should be listed than


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whipple16*


Here is my latest build. Flipped the mobo tray So I can have the window on the right, powder coated internals black, classy white primochill and added some acrylic over the midplate. Still need a few cable management holes and finish the new window and top window but it's always a work in progress!!


Nice case dude!!! I am thinking of pulling my MM TJ-07 out and doing a build in it again! How hard was the flip?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


Nice case dude!!! I am thinking of pulling my MM TJ-07 out and doing a build in it again! How hard was the flip?


I'd do a build on one too if I had one.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


I'd do a build on one too if I had one.











LOL, I got mine off E-bay for a really great price (ebay and great price haha) But I did, Murder Box TJ-07 in the box for 300usd only used for about six months with no user mods just Murder Mods only


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mav2000*


Thanks man...I am actually looking to setup a couple of QD's for my loop, two pairs to be exact, so that I can take out the mobo tray as and when required. Unluckily I have spent a lot of 7/16" 5/8" fittings from bitspower and now realise that Koolance QD's just wont work out as they normally have them in different sizes, other than the 1/2" barb ones, which are a pain to get...so was wondering if D plugs would work, but reading around, I guess it may not. ANy ideas on any other QD's?


Ahhh okay. I would suggest to just stick with a drain tube. You can do those D fittings for QD once all the water is removed if you wish to. But you could also do what I pointed out and just install two of those fem/fem fittings and 2 extra barb/compression fittings in each line that comes off the MoBo to Rad and Pump/Res. Drain the line and detach at the connection. A rotary compression would help with the tightness that would be experienced when trying to break it down.

Those D fittings are more for SLI/XFire setups where the distance isn't great enough for them to accidentally come apart. That could be quite bad if your loop isn't drained.









~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

This is my latest update that I finished yesterday

-Added a HD 5870 with EK waterblock
-Switched from Serial to a Parallel Bridge (flow much better)
-Added a Feser 480 X-Changer Radiator on the back with koolance bracket
-Flipped the bottom feser 240 on the side (intake: bottom and side ; exhaust: back)
-Modded both side panels for better intake and exhaust
-Changed from red feser tubing to primochill white tubing
-Added more holes with rubber grommets for better cable management for wires and tubing.

Parallel GPUs brings much better flow than serial connection, even with another block and another radiator, the flow is much better than before the modification)

I also tried the koolance reservoir for dual MCP 655 and couldnt be able to bleed the system.



































































































































































OLD System


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Upgraded to a new board for the gtx 295.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14536431*
> Upgraded to a new board for the gtx 295.


Gah! Paint that noctua fan! Otherwise that's a good looking setup!


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14536570*
> Gah! Paint that noctua fan! Otherwise that's a good looking setup!


The color looks much better at live.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14536637*
> The color looks much better at live.


Lol... it doesn't look terrible, but I still wonder why noctua went with brown and tan....


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14537598*
> Lol... it doesn't look terrible, but I still wonder why noctua went with brown and tan....


I think because it is designed in Australia, and they have employed the kangaroo colour. I am not a hater of that colour but I wouldn't use that for my computer fans.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14538192*
> I think because it is designed in Australia, and they have employed the kangaroo colour. I am not a hater of that colour but I wouldn't use that for my computer fans.


Austria, not Australia


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;14538234*
> Austria, not Australia


----------



## Erick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14535536*


Very nice, congrats man, i wish one day i do something like that.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Thank you very much


----------



## coolhandluke41

@ good job KaRLiToS !,looks great
P.S. what did i tell you about KL res ..


----------



## KaRLiToS

Ah man, it sucked so bad, I'm really disapointed because I lost about 15 hours with it, wasn't even able to bleed it, I have a lot of components in my loop and my XSPC Res and EK Dual MCP 655 Top took me around 5 minutes to bleed.

I need a better reservoir, looking for a single bay Reservoir , the danger Den moonsoon is interesting










Or maybe a Cylindrical Reservoirs but i'll have a hard time mounting it inside the case

and by the way, thank you


----------



## lowfat

I guess I could post one of my SR-2 folding rigs I had over the winter and the chimp challenge.

It wasn't quite finished since the properly coloured sleeve PSU was never added to it.


----------



## mav2000

Are you using Mayhems Red dye?


----------



## lowfat

I was yes. It, uhhh, turned purple after about 3 weeks though. Although I think that might have happened due to the EK SR-2 block nickle plating flaking off.


----------



## coolhandluke41

@KaRLiToS
the only thing i don't like about Monsoon res is the lack of bras bushings for mounting screws (thread it Delrin= stripped threads)..80 $ a bit high for this small res


----------



## KaRLiToS

Do you think its possible to mount a cylindrical reservoir inside? Do you have any idea?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14539703*
> Do you think its possible to mount a cylindrical reservoir inside? Do you have any idea?


I think next to the MB ;


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## USFORCES

Here's a new one photo, you guys should start watermarking your photos you might be entered into a contest and not even know about it


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Have you entered one ?


----------



## USFORCES

No but someone entered mine and won.

http://www.erodov.com/forums/my-rig-pics-stolen-sushrukh-sushruta-bhattacharya/44235.html
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/1081684-someone-entered-my-desk-mod-contest.html


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES;14539881*
> Here's a new one photo, you guys should start watermarking your photos you might be entered into a contest and not even know about it


Just read your thread, is there a fast way to watermake all the photos at once?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES;14543406*
> No but someone entered mine and won.
> 
> http://www.erodov.com/forums/my-rig-pics-stolen-sushrukh-sushruta-bhattacharya/44235.html
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/1081684-someone-entered-my-desk-mod-contest.html


wow thats crazy









dont think i have to worry about mine winning any contests though lol


----------



## Levesque

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES;14543406*
> No but someone entered mine and won.
> 
> http://www.erodov.com/forums/my-rig-pics-stolen-sushrukh-sushruta-bhattacharya/44235.html
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/1081684-someone-entered-my-desk-mod-contest.html


WOW!









Someone was using some pics of my speakers and HT to scam some people, so I know what you went through!

Your rig is AWESOME btw! Showed it to my wife and she told me: ''why can't you do something nice like that instead of that gigantic big black thing?''.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES;14543406*
> No but someone entered mine and won.
> 
> http://www.erodov.com/forums/my-rig-pics-stolen-sushrukh-sushruta-bhattacharya/44235.html
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/1081684-someone-entered-my-desk-mod-contest.html


WOW!!! WOW!!! WOW!!! Now I am shocked and I don't know by which more of, the fact that he stole your rig pictures and entered a contest and won! and as far as I am concerned the remarks he made about USA and Americans was way out of line, I know that this is off topic and sorry guys but if this is the way others see Americans I guess I am even stupider than I thought. I would suggest if you are from USA and did not read those links to the fullest you should, I am in shock to tell the truth! I am truly sorry *USFORCES* about what happened to you on this, but I am pissed, upset, ect... about those comments!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14544773*
> WOW!!! WOW!!! WOW!!! Now I am shocked and I don't know by which more of, the fact that he stole your rig pictures and entered a contest and won! and as far as I am concerned the remarks he made about USA and Americans was way out of line, I know that this is off topic and sorry guys but if this is the way others see Americans I guess I am even stupider than I thought. I would suggest if you are from USA and did not read those links to the fullest you should, I am in shock to tell the truth! I am truly sorry *USFORCES* about what happened to you on this, but I am pissed, upset, ect... about those comments!


+1


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES;14539881*
> Here's a new one photo, you guys should start watermarking your photos you might be entered into a contest and not even know about it


wow, something similar happened to me with truckin' magazine. Someone had taken pictures of my truck and submitted them for a contest online last year. I frequent the site so I saw the submission. At first I wondered whether someone built something similar, but then I noticed the UK emblems on the tailgate. Sucks someone won something with ur hard work, but then again that person fails so hard he can't even build something of his own due to lack of skill or finances.


----------



## GhostDog99

heres my rig


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Nice build, you need some cathodes its too dark.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14545522*
> Nice build, you need some cathodes its too dark.


Thank mate and your right i was thinking of that

it is my first build so im still geting evrey thing togther


----------



## Bradford1040

http://www.cubix.com/product/gpu-xpander-desktop-pro2

I thought this thing was neat, I really think it would be a folder's dream lol! But I was looking at it because of space issues at first then thought about it, hell I can run (3) sli set ups at once off one pc!!! I am just dreaming now but still this was a great idea


----------



## KaRLiToS

can you watercool that thing without modding?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES;14543406*
> No but someone entered mine and won.
> 
> http://www.erodov.com/forums/my-rig-pics-stolen-sushrukh-sushruta-bhattacharya/44235.html
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/1081684-someone-entered-my-desk-mod-contest.html


Bad form. Anyone that Smokes, knows that was an American pack of Camels on the desk. Don't know where that schmuck is from but it's not America. I've smoked International boxed Camels. The box doesn't look anything like the one one the desk. And does Venom sell around the world with English printing? Pretty sure it doesn't since Coke, Pepsi and just about every soft drink made doesn't.

He was asking for proof? You had the proof right there on your desk only dude was too thickheaded to notice it. "Racism" seems to be the fallback term these days. Someone labeled me a Chomo because I played an Online game and I'm olderndirt. So at least you didn't have him calling you that.









This watermark thing? Does it cost anything?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14547041*
> *snip*


And where are your pics sir


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14547041*
> This watermark thing? Does it cost anything?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


no, just before you upload photos use photoshop or the like to add ur name on it. Takes like 30 seconds.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14547067*
> And where are your pics sir


On photobucket where they belong... oh and here.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

If you don't have Photoshop, the free alternative is GIMP and will allow you to do the exact same thing.


----------



## quakermaas

Just updated my case, liquid cooling and lapped the CPU.
CPU had a hump on it.
(Sliverstone Raven II Evolution, Feser 360, Laing DDC, D-Tec Fuzion II)
Had to mod the res, it was like a fountain and causing lots of air, which the pump pick-up was sucking into the loop.

Rad was a tight fit, but just made it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas;14547176*
> *snip*


Pics not showing up mate


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14547235*
> Pics not showing up mate


Strange, showing here


----------



## Atomfix

Not showing here either sorry, it was about 20mins ago though, but not now


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14547173*
> If you don't have Photoshop, the free alternative is GIMP and will allow you to do the exact same thing.


I can't afford Gimp lol,


----------



## zainu

Hello its my first Wc setup... just sleeved the cable a week back... and just now sleeved the front panel cable as well...


----------



## wermad

^^^Awesome sleeve job, now get that fermi on water


----------



## Haze_hellivo

The sleeving looks stunning!


----------



## zainu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14547731*
> ^^^Awesome sleeve job, now get that fermi on water


thanks alot for appreciation brother.. actually i made a thread regarding some information for Wc my 580 but no one gave a **** to it..







i dont knw why
here my thread maybe u can help me regarding that

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1089435-need-help-regarding-wc-580-a.html


----------



## zainu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14547830*
> The sleeving looks stunning!


Thanks a lot brother... firstly i was selecting Black and red colour as normally people do with Rog mobos... but i thought why should i try bit change from others.. choose red and grey... and at the end i found it better then black and red combination


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zainu;14547844*
> thanks alot for appreciation brother.. actually i made a thread regarding some information for Wc my 580 but no one gave a **** to it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i dont knw why
> here my thread maybe u can help me regarding that
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1089435-need-help-regarding-wc-580-a.html


Np







, thread replied to









@ QuakerMaas: Pics working now


----------



## Ceadderman

Installed my Fillport Res for fitment.










But I've an issue that I need to know how to deal with. I got it used for a song but it's got some corrosion on the theads of the inlet.



















I'd like to clean it if I can. Seems DDs' cap fitting is Aluminum and there is no way to stop corrosion there with it. Gonna replace it with a quality Nickel plated Brass one. But I need to know if I can clean this top with CLR or something else that won't melt the plastic? Anyone have any solid tricks to dealing with corrosion cleanup?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## bundymania

...some Parts to look at........for your entertainment






















































 



















Best Regards from Germany and have a nice weekend all over the world !


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14548572*
> ...some Parts to look at........for your entertainment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards from Germany and have a nice weekend all over the world !


wow, how much for that one? with international shipping to Colombia


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Try vinnegar and ketchup.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14548302*
> I'd like to clean it if I can. Seems DDs' cap fitting is Aluminum and there is no way to stop corrosion there with it. Gonna replace it with a quality Nickel plated Brass one. But I need to know if I can clean this top with CLR or something else that won't melt the plastic? Anyone have any solid tricks to dealing with corrosion cleanup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Brasso


----------



## Jmatt110




----------



## bundymania




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jmatt110;14548983*
> *snip*


resize


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14548927*
> Brasso


Has to be able to be rinsed from the threads. From my dealins with Brasso it's great for exterior threads, but it's not as good for interior threads. NvrDull is the same. I'm considering Generator Cleaner for Electicral contacts but I'll definitely have to soak the fillport ring if I do that.

Might try Ketchup though. People keep saying this works on corrosion and since it's not electrical I don't have to worry about gumming up the works...

Hmmm I think I'ma try a combination of Ketchup/Vinegar and Lime Juice in a ziploc baggie.


----------



## Boyboyd

I've got no idea what we're planning but it sounds delicious!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Dont use ketchup, ketchup act like brasso, you need to polish it or I mean scrub, what I suggest is put the part in a bowl, with 50% distilled water and 50% vinegar, for over 20 minutes and you will be fine, or lemon juice, but you need to put half of distilled water to the mix.


----------



## Canis-X

Ordered me a bunch of parts today to be able to setup my GPU loop!! WHOOOOHOOOOO!!!!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas;14547176*
> Just updated my case, liquid cooling and lapped the CPU.
> CPU had a hump on it.
> (Sliverstone Raven II Evolution, Feser 360, Laing DDC, D-Tec Fuzion II)
> Had to mod the res, it was like a fountain and causing lots of air, which the pump pick-up was sucking into the loop.
> 
> Rad was a tight fit, but just made it


Nice work! How thick is Feser 360 rad and what are your temps?


----------



## Highlyanimated

Here is a pic of my first attempt at water cooling. I went with a TJ07, RX480 and RX240 in the bottom. Everything else is listed in the sig. I'd like to thank those on OCN that created the great WC FAQs I've read, due to them this build has been leak free for two weeks *knocks on wood*.

Not sure what to do with the messy wires though.

To Do:
OC
Sleeve some wires.
Switch to white tubing. (clear stuff is yellowing already)
Possibly get some compression and Koolance QDC fittings.


----------



## airplaneman

I've managed to unsubscribe some how, so this is me re-subscribing.









Highlyanimated: Nice rig man! Once you sleeve those cables it'll look mint. I also recommend painting your interior black when you get the time.


----------



## CloudCR

Can I join??







Here's mine it's kinda like a work in progress still. I'm waiting on the Video card Water block.


----------



## Ceadderman

First coat is on the plate...




























...I scuffed it up with a piece of Emery Cloth, put a cotton ball in the Danger Den Barb fitting I have wrapped it with scotch tape down to the base and sprayed it down. Tomorrow once the paint has had a chance to dry, I'll take some 1500 grit paper and give it a light going over and hopefully it won't be too windy to give it the second coat. I was going to prime it but the paint I use is pretty reliable.

It's not perfect but my only aim was to get a reasonable first coat on it.I think I've done that. Also color matched the springs on the EZ mount kit for my EK Classified Supreme block.









~Ceadder


----------



## Highlyanimated

Thanks for the feedback and suggestion airplaneman, I appreciate it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14565685*
> *snip*


Looks great!! I like the deep red.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14556590*
> Nice work! How thick is Feser 360 rad and what are your temps?


http://www.overclock.net/hardware-news/307530-tfc-feser-x-changer-released.html
"411 x 123 x 62 mm"

I paid 56 euros of eBay , came with 3 x 120 mm yate loon fans

3 x 180mm fans at bottom of case set to low, CPU @ 4GHz (1.35v), idle 38c, load 73c after 20 minutes of prime95 small TFT, before lapping it was hitting 81c after 2 minutes of prime95 LOL, room temp was around 26-28c.
Computer is very quiet, that's what I was aiming for, as it now sits on top of table away from dust and case window facing me. Raven II has window on opposite side than usual/normal.

As you can see, its tight..I put a thin piece of cardboard on top of the rad, while fitting graphic cards with cables, then slid the cardboard out.
Big gap between radiator fins and fan mounts, removing need for shrouds.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas;14568477*
> http://www.overclock.net/hardware-news/307530-tfc-feser-x-changer-released.html
> "411 x 123 x 62 mm"
> 
> I paid 56 euros of eBay , came with 3 x 120 mm yate loon fans
> 
> 3 x 180mm fans at bottom of case set to low, CPU @ 4GHz (1.35v), idle 38c, load 73c after 20 minutes of prime95 small TFT, before lapping it was hitting 81c after 2 minutes of prime95 LOL, room temp was around 26-28c.
> Computer is very quiet, that's what I was aiming for, as it now sits on top of table away from dust and case window facing me. Raven II has window on opposite side than usual/normal.
> 
> As you can see, its tight..I put a thin piece of cardboard on top of the rad, while fitting graphic cards with cables, then slid the cardboard out.
> Big gap between radiator fins and fan mounts, removing need for shrouds.
> QUOTE]
> 
> Thanks, Im looing into getting a thicker 360 rad or even a 480. Nice set up and cool temps!


----------



## Jcyle

What color should I sleeve my cables to? The 8 pin for CPU is already sleeved in black, tho I really want blue sleeves but can't find them anywhere


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Blue and white would look good or black and blue.

You are missing a screw on the card !
Where are you located?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14577224*
> Blue and white would look good or black and blue.
> 
> You are missing a screw on the card !
> Where are you located?


He is indeed, well spotted and a main one at that (GPU corner)
Maybe add cable ties as well, to the tubing/fitting for safety


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14577224*
> Blue and white would look good or black and blue.
> 
> You are missing a screw on the card !
> Where are you located?


You have some real sharp eyes







I'm located in Toronto. So far, I've only seen black ones avaliable, which I kind of don't want. I can't order them from online, at least not now because I'll be going on a trip real soon, so won't be home for whatever's coming
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas;14577473*
> He is indeed, well spotted and a main one at that (GPU corner)
> Maybe add cable ties as well, to the tubing/fitting for safety


I think you're right, thanks for the suggestion!

Edit: I just read from another member saying that, colored fluids could stain tubings and leave residu in the res/block, can anyone confirm it?

I've used distilled water in the past, but this is my first time with colored fluid. By the way the fluids are from Fesser One


----------



## kevingreenbmx

yes, color additives do tend to stain and separate and clog loops, they are not recommended.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcyle;14578796*
> By the way the fluids are from Fesser One


I've never used it myself, but I've heard horror stories from other members about that particular coolant. I remember seeing some for sale at the local microcenter and it was all separated with tons of gunk sitting at the bottom of the bottle. I just stick to distilled with a killcoil and use colored tubes. If you really want colored coolant, I've only heard good things about Mayhem dye, but staining is still always an issue with the darker colors.


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;14579188*
> I've never used it myself, but I've heard horror stories from other members about that particular coolant. I remember seeing some for sale at the local microcenter and it was all separated with tons of gunk sitting at the bottom of the bottle. I just stick to distilled with a killcoil and use colored tubes. If you really want colored coolant, I've only heard good things about Mayhem dye, but staining is still always an issue with the darker colors.


I took another look at my bottles of unopened fluid, and I don't see any gunk at the bottom.

But I guess distilled water is the way to go.


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## kevingreenbmx

are there going to be fans on that rad?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

there will be .... both 3x140s will have 3 fans each...


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


there will be .... both 3x140s will have 3 fans each...


Very nice







. I see that your selling your gpu(s), any thoughts on what your planning to get







???


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Very nice







. I see that your selling your gpu(s), any thoughts on what your planning to get







???


Thanks...

I sold off my entire X58 setup... the 5850s are on the ebay

I will be looking forward to the upcoming solutions and plan to wait a month at least to plan my next build

hoping to have this build done by November


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey nick did you punch new holes for the 3x140s'? Or were they already there?









~Ceadder


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hey nick did you punch new holes for the 3x140s'? Or were they already there?









~Ceadder










I am guessing you are talking about the front? because the top has been cut out for a 3x140 for some time now... but yes I had to cut both of them out.

Maybe more pictures will help explain:
http://www.overclock.net/14579895-post147.html

Maybe someday I will even get the front panel back from the powder coaters... and the doors are going to be completely different


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow, very nice floating tray feature. Will look sharp once you have a standard ATX board on it.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I had no problem hacking a HAF 932 to stuff a 360mm rad to the front, though I had one drive slot left for the odd. You planning to go external?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I had no problem hacking a HAF 932 to stuff a 360mm rad to the front, though I had one drive slot left for the odd. You planning to go external?


I will be running 2 SSDs and they can mount anywhere. I have a server full of HDDs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


I will be running 2 SSDs and they can mount anywhere. I have a server full of HDDs.


So, no disc drive (odd)? I've seen some go external like FallOutBoy with his TJ07 build when they sacrifice all drive bays.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14582666*
> So, no disc drive (odd)? I've seen some go external like FallOutBoy with his TJ07 build when they sacrifice all drive bays.


Ya my server also has a DVD drive and DVD RW. so again see no reason to put extra junk I don't use in my main station







I don't think I ever put a DVD drive in this case even (have to go back and look at old pix)

I install windows using a thumb drive and moving parts just suck


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14582666*
> So, no disc drive (odd)? I've seen some go external like FallOutBoy with his TJ07 build when they sacrifice all drive bays.


Many people don't even use optical drives anymore. Most movies and TV shows can be downloaded online in blu-ray quality and the OS can be installed via usb stick. I have one as backup between all my rigs for new mobo's with their drivers cd but thats it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farmer boe;14585069*
> many people(in *ocn*-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )don't even use optical drives anymore. Most movies and tv shows can be downloaded online in blu-ray quality and the os can be installed via usb stick. I have one as backup between all my rigs for new mobo's with their drivers cd but thats it.


Fixed. People still use Optical Drives. Mostly for storing their media collections. Even still Optical drives won't fully die off for another 10 years. Is BluRay not an optical drive?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

I like to do a lot of movies and put them on disc (power director) and I have a whole bunch of games on disc that I have to reinstall every time I reformat. I'm well aware that the odd is becoming obsolete but there is still quite of bit of use of it. And I agree w/ Ceadder, it'll be a while before everything can be fully done by most people without disc media.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

BluRay is still considered optical media therefore a BluRay drive is a optical drive

and as stated before I don't put them in my main rig because I have them in my server... and that is where all my media is so it make sense for me to doing all my burning from the server


----------



## wermad

I remember when cd-r came out







. Bought my first for $300 and I was burning like crazy (not disclosing what, but it rhymes with hamster







) back in the mid 90s


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14585488*
> I remember when cd-r came out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Bought my first for $300 and *I was burning like crazy* (not disclosing what, but it rhymes with hamster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) back in the mid 90s


They have a cure for that you know. It's called penicillin.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14585575*
> They have a cure for that you know. It's called penicillin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Fire blanket or extinguisher helps too


----------



## Opp47

finally finished the mountain mods build... heres a ruff vid till i get my cam back









Mr. Clint Beastwood


----------



## XiDillon

water is great! I just always get crap motherboards.....


----------



## wermad

Water for my fermis on the way


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yay!! That's good news Wer


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

We will miss you Syrillian, Rest in peace.


----------



## driftingforlife

Still waiting for someone to buy my cosmos and old loop









case is just sat in my room


----------



## eR_L0k0!!




----------



## RushMore1205

^ beautiful build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated and I agree with Rush, very nice


----------



## nganitup

definitely need some work but yeah..... i gave it a go and i'm happy with it for now


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Blue and green doesnt look good, 1 rad and 1 pump would look cleaner and give you same temps.
You gonna have to do a lot of modding before thats finished.


----------



## Tagi

I am going to be adding in my GPU and cleaning up the hoses.


----------



## Hiege

Been lurking for a while now, figured I'd post the rig I made as a result. It's a little sloppy, but I've always been a function over form sort of guy.


----------



## nganitup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*


Blue and green doesnt look good, 1 rad and 1 pump would look cleaner and give you same temps.
You gonna have to do a lot of modding before thats finished.


blue and green def doesn't not look good lol and yeah i'm waiting on a few things for my second GPU which is just sitting there that's why the quad is there, it's to run both GPU so i ended up giving the CPU it's own unit, as of right now i just need it up and running, still waiting on a few more fittings then i can finally tidy everything up


----------



## DevilDriver

Here is my HAF912 with its current water set up.


----------



## Brulf

i just ordered me my XSPC RS240 kit should be here tomorrow.... i do have 1 question though after doing some research i've decided to go with distilled water and try to find some .999% silver locally as a biocide (i think i have that right lol) i'm just curious as to how much silver i actually would need to go in the system and if i'm gonna need to worry about any corrosion... any ideas?

The interesting part is gonna be getting the system to all fit in my case, the old Lian Li v1000... i just can't seem to let it go lol.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf;14623893*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just ordered me my XSPC RS240 kit should be here tomorrow.... i do have 1 question though after doing some research i've decided to go with distilled water and try to find some .999% silver locally as a biocide (i think i have that right lol) i'm just curious as to how much silver i actually would need to go in the system and if i'm gonna need to worry about any corrosion... any ideas?
> 
> The interesting part is gonna be getting the system to all fit in my case, the old Lian Li v1000... i just can't seem to let it go lol.


Dude that Lian Li is more than big enough lol, I can't 100% remember but isn't that case like 23" x 24" x 9" ?


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14623918*
> Dude that Lian Li is more than big enough lol, I can't 100% remember but isn't that case like 23" x 24" x 9" ?


it's 210mm wide, 490mm tall and 525mm deep,

though half the bottom section is taken up by the power supply and the bays will be taken up by the res/pump and devices so i'm just hoping i got enough room to fir the rad between the power supply and front case fan in the bottom section


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nganitup;14621676*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> definitely need some work but yeah..... i gave it a go and i'm happy with it for now


I still think it needs just one or two more Blue Lights, you are missing a spot down by the pump! Then it will be ready for the air port landing lights show down lol (Good work dude)


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf;14623952*
> it's 210mm wide, 490mm tall and 525mm deep,
> 
> though half the bottom section is taken up by the power supply and the bays will be taken up by the res/pump and devices so i'm just hoping i got enough room to fir the rad between the power supply and front case fan in the bottom section


have you looked at the Lian Li thread? there are some pictures in there of that case with allot more in there, some on here as well if I am not mistaken


----------



## nganitup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14623956*
> I still think it needs just one or two more Blue Lights, you are missing a spot down by the pump! Then it will be ready for the air port landing lights show down lol (Good work dude)


LOL well it can't be helped I'm still new to making my own custom loops and its missing quite a bit of stuff, this is only temporary until i get all my fittings and tidy up the tubing


----------



## lvl8Hacker

Here are a couple pictures of my Case Labs M8. More pictures and build log in my sig


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lvl8Hacker;14624800*
> Here are a couple pictures of my Case Labs M8. More pictures and build log in my sig


Love the CL builds









Btw, just noticed that your Asus sli bridge is brown like mine







. I just ordered a new one in black for a few bucks off ebay


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14625607*
> Love the CL builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, just noticed that your Asus sli bridge is brown like mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I just ordered a new one in black for a few bucks off ebay


Just get some Carbon Fiber paper and camouflage it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14625646*
> Just get some Carbon Fiber paper and camouflage it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Too lazy, plus, it would end up being the same cost









Actually, I have some matte vinyl....


----------



## nganitup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lvl8Hacker;14624800*
> Here are a couple pictures of my Case Labs M8. More pictures and build log in my sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> let me marry your computer


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;14614262*










Nice build. Super clean!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Kahbrohn

Yo KGB... Get the store fixed?


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14515520*
> Thanks man. I got some sandpaper (1500,2000gr) to take the 955 all the way down to the copper, just need to pick up some primer and get a plug to keep the paint from getting into the inlet of the block, once I get the color figured out I'll start in and get things a bit more aligned in the color scheme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


See if you can find adhesion primer, it works great on fittings.


----------



## lowfat

Almost done w/ my 650D.


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14626808*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build. Super clean!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14629410*
> Almost done w/ my 650D.


What liquid do you use??


----------



## lowfat

Ice Dragon w/ a whole lot of Mayhems deep blue dye.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun;14628760*
> See if you can find adhesion primer, it works great on fittings.


Actually I didn't use any primer at all. I was going to use it but couldn't find a good one for a reasonable price. So I went with the Universal Advanced Formula paint I already had.

I gave it a good roughing up with a piece of emery cloth on horizontal plane. Gave it a decent layered coat of paint. Let that dry 12 hours, smoothed it with a piece of 2000 grit paper, wiped it down to get all the dust off it, let it dry and gave it another hit with the 2000 grit and wiped it down again before applying the final coat. Even color matched the springs on my CPU kit. It's not as good but if this doesn't hold I'll send it in for powder coat.




































~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Hysteria~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14629804*
> Ice Dragon w/ a whole lot of Mayhems deep blue dye.


It sure looks good, but holy hell it must gunk up your blocks like no other.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hysteria~;14630136*
> It sure looks good, but holy hell it must gunk up your blocks like no other.


Actually nope. It has a lower viscosity than water IIRC. It performs almost identically to distilled water.


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14630321*
> Actually nope. It has a lower viscosity than water IIRC. It performs almost identically to distilled water.


Just wait it will happen.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Stormblitz

My first build...well second and modified build with the QDC's.


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14630095*
> Actually I didn't use any primer at all. I was going to use it but couldn't find a good one for a reasonable price. So I went with the Universal Advanced Formula paint I already had.
> 
> I gave it a good roughing up with a piece of emery cloth on horizontal plane. Gave it a decent layered coat of paint. Let that dry 12 hours, smoothed it with a piece of 2000 grit paper, wiped it down to get all the dust off it, let it dry and gave it another hit with the 2000 grit and wiped it down again before applying the final coat. Even color matched the springs on my CPU kit. It's not as good but if this doesn't hold I'll send it in for powder coat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Looks pretty nice. Are you going to wet sand it hit it with a coat of clear? Wet sanding it will really smooth out the paint and give it a nice professional looking finish.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25;14631456*
> Looks pretty nice. Are you going to wet sand it hit it with a coat of clear? Wet sanding it will really smooth out the paint and give it a nice professional looking finish.


Yeah I'm considering it. I have to pick up some clear coat for other things anyway.

But I am kinda digging the surface as it is now. No drips splatters or runs, it just dried with a textured surface.

Not sure I want to mess with it and besides the thicker the coat the more the threads of the screws aren't sitting deep enough into their seats. This texture shouldn't show up too much once the block is vertical and in a dark case.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stormblitz;14631162*
> My first build...well second and modified build with the QDC's.


Looks good


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14629410*
> Almost done w/ my 650D.


beautiful build. very well done!








that's a very unique shade of blue. how did you get it that color?

EDIT: posted before reading all the new posts following yours. saw the answer


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*











~Ceadder










*"He likes it! Hey Mikey!" *


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14631901*
> Yeah I'm considering it. I have to pick up some clear coat for other things anyway.
> 
> But I am kinda digging the surface as it is now. No drips splatters or runs, it just dried with a textured surface.
> 
> Not sure I want to mess with it and besides the thicker the coat the more the threads of the screws aren't sitting deep enough into their seats. This texture shouldn't show up too much once the block is vertical and in a dark case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


If you're putting spray paint on thick enough to affect how deep your fittings go into their thread, you're doing it wrong. A layer of paint, especially spray paint, which I assume is what you used, can be measured in thousandths of an inch. Even 7 coats shouldn't have a significant impact on your fittings unless you're not taping them off and getting paint in your threads.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25;14635064*
> If you're putting spray paint on thick enough to affect how deep your fittings go into their thread, you're doing it wrong. A layer of paint, especially spray paint, which I assume is what you used, can be measured in thousandths of an inch. Even 7 coats shouldn't have a significant impact on your fittings unless you're not taping them off and getting paint in your threads.


If he wants a glossy look, which it appears that he does, then he has to do at least one, preferably two, medium/wet coats of paint. Those screws are not very long so he really does need to watch that. (I sold him that physical WB and disassembled it to make sure that the nickel plate was 100% before I listed it for sale). IMO if he went all thin/light coats then it would not be glossy and have a duller, much more textured look.

Just what I took from this thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25;14635064*
> If you're putting spray paint on thick enough to affect how deep your fittings go into their thread, you're doing it wrong. A layer of paint, especially spray paint, which I assume is what you used, can be measured in thousandths of an inch. Even 7 coats shouldn't have a significant impact on your fittings unless you're not taping them off and getting paint in your threads.


I used a taped up Barb to keep the fitting threads clear of paint. Not a chance of the paint being too thick around the opening.

It's the threads of the screws holding the plate down that you have to watch. Not the four corner ones but all the other ones. They are MAYBE three millimeter in length. You go with more coats than what I have now, you have a good chance of interfering with the bite of those threads in their seats. Interfering with the bite makes you more prone to leakage. Even in a block that has a good seal.

Just think how this could be if I put more coats on it than I should and then had to tilt my beefeater case up to get access to the filter and then it dropped a little harder than normal. Yeah not good.

Could I tighten the screws a little more? No. Why? Cause Acetal is softer than Acrylic. If I tighten too much I can strip the threads rendering my block useless for anything other than a paperweight.

Also I've got plenty of paint experience. That was my rate in the service. Bosun's do more painting in a day than most people do in a month.

I prepped the surfaces that I wanted paint on and washed them to get any oils skin oils off the plate. Scuffed it really well(no circles, lord help me no circles) washed it down again. Wrapped the exterior portion of tape around my fingers and used that as a tack cloth. Put it upon water bottle caps to keep the paint from touching the surface of the platform and gave it a light dusting until no metal showed. Let it dry, sanded it and followed the steps again.

I could put another coat on it, but I'm satisfied that it'll hold up. Nobody is going to be touching it when it's in place and the only maintenance it's going to get is the occasional dusting with a soft bristled paint brush and the bi annual drain and check of the system.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Castle02

Bought some clear Yate Loons and wanted to paint them flat black, but not cover up the leds. So I hole punched some masking tape.
















Leak testing. Hopefully no tsunami by the morning. Kitty is supervising.








Just realized I gotta figure out a way to snake the mobo cable around the res. D'oh!


----------



## Kahbrohn

And the cat is wondering what the heck you are doing to his kitty litter box!!!

Nice work on the fans btw...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castle02;14636036*
> *snip*


You can remove the leds and just re-glue them w/ a hot-glue gun


----------



## Castle02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14636338*
> You can remove the leds and just re-glue them w/ a hot-glue gun


Yeah, I tried that, but I yanked out one of the wires. I ended up doing it the lazy way.


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14635989*
> I used a taped up Barb to keep the fitting threads clear of paint. Not a chance of the paint being too thick around the opening.
> 
> It's the threads of the screws holding the plate down that you have to watch. Not the four corner ones but all the other ones. They are MAYBE three millimeter in length. You go with more coats than what I have now, you have a good chance of interfering with the bite of those threads in their seats. Interfering with the bite makes you more prone to leakage. Even in a block that has a good seal.
> 
> Just think how this could be if I put more coats on it than I should and then had to tilt my beefeater case up to get access to the filter and then it dropped a little harder than normal. Yeah not good.
> 
> Could I tighten the screws a little more? No. Why? Cause Acetal is softer than Acrylic. If I tighten too much I can strip the threads rendering my block useless for anything other than a paperweight.
> 
> Also I've got plenty of paint experience. That was my rate in the service. Bosun's do more painting in a day than most people do in a month.
> 
> I prepped the surfaces that I wanted paint on and washed them to get any oils skin oils off the plate. Scuffed it really well(no circles, lord help me no circles) washed it down again. Wrapped the exterior portion of tape around my fingers and used that as a tack cloth. Put it upon water bottle caps to keep the paint from touching the surface of the platform and gave it a light dusting until no metal showed. Let it dry, sanded it and followed the steps again.
> 
> I could put another coat on it, but I'm satisfied that it'll hold up. Nobody is going to be touching it when it's in place and the only maintenance it's going to get is the occasional dusting with a soft bristled paint brush and the bi annual drain and check of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Ok, I completely misunderstood your previous post. I thought you were talking about the fittings. I'll agree that with screws that small and threads that fine, you want to be very careful not to interfere with their function too much. One such precaution to keep paint out of the countersinks would be to get similar screws and rest them in the holes and paint over them and remove them before they dry to the rest of the paint.

If you already have paint inside the countersink, if you have a countersink drill bit, go over it VERY lightly to get the paint off while not taking away any metal. Not sure how you could get all the paint out of the countersink without messing up the rest of the finish.


----------



## nzftw

Castle, what tubing is that? It looks VERY nice considering you are not using dyes!


----------



## AMC

Why are you guys using Yate Loon's. Don't they use sleeved bearings?


----------



## THC Butterz

to Re light up my tubing I re-installed my uv led bar and a pair of ccfl's but I also hav a pair of led uv's that attach to a ccfl box and blink by default unless I press a stupid button 7 times, anyone know if theres a way to open the ccfl box and stop the stupid blinking altogether??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC;14636630*
> Why are you guys using Yate Loon's. Don't they use sleeved bearings?


Best bang for your buck fan out there imo. Sometimes, people don't want to dump hundreds of $$$ to outfit their cases/rads with GTs or NBs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC;14636630*
> Why are you guys using Yate Loon's. Don't they use sleeved bearings?


@$4 a fan I'd put them in there if I hadda hand crank them to start.









And to be perfectly honest, most fans are sleeved fans these days. Every 200mm fan I have in my 932 are sleeved bearing fans. If they start making noise or stop working altogether I'll perform some maintenance or replace them. The SP of a Yate Loon is something like the 3rd or 4th best and being the cheapest makes them the best.









6v per fan also makes them easy to connect 4 or less on my 30vpc Rheosmart as well. I could load 5 of them per channel but I like to think of +/- precautions.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## White Phantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14623956*
> I still think it needs just one or two more Blue Lights, you are missing a spot down by the pump! Then it will be ready for the air port landing lights show down lol (Good work dude)


I want a quad rad mounted like that on my phantom, work in progress for cooling of my 6950s and by work in progress i mean i have no money to buy the rad or the blocks


----------



## ASO7

mounted with a friend....

*Worklog*
http://foro.noticias3d.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=371808

_Fractal Design Arc Midi
i5 2500K
Asus P67 EVO B3
2x4Gb G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600 CL8
Asus GTX570 DC II
Thermaltake Toughpower 750W
Mushkin Callisto 60Gb
WD Caviar Green 1TB
WD Caviar Green 2TB
Scythe Kaze Master_

*RL*

_Kit EK Supreme LTX 240
Primochill 13/19 White
2x Nidec Gentle Typhoon 1450rpms
4x Compression fittings 13/19 Bitspower Black Matte
2x Compression fittings 13/19 Phobya 45º
3x 45º Bitspower Silver
1x 45º rotable Bitspower Black Matte_


----------



## Nynn




----------



## Castle02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14636598*
> Castle, what tubing is that? It looks VERY nice considering you are not using dyes!


The tubing is XSPC Thermochill Flex 3/4"OD - Acid Green.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nynn;14639145*


the sleeving looks good mate nice and cleen rig


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Looks like sleeved extensions.He only has 1 pciex sleeved.


----------



## bundymania

The John Long Silver of all Radiators


----------



## Ceadderman

Too bad that's longer than the top of my 932.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

I love those RADs.. I have 2 that are goin in my TH10 build


----------



## icemanemg

My hdd is hotter than my graphics card


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemanemg;14645641*
> My hdd is hotter than my graphics card


HOLY WOW..........














*wipes eyes*














*wipes face*
That case is unreal... Absolutely awesome man..
+rep to you my friend..


----------



## Ceadderman

I love Lego blocks they're so kewl and you can do so much with them.









That pump/res probably cost more than all the legos he owns.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ShortySmalls

lol i love the lego case


----------



## icemanemg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14645940*
> I love Lego blocks they're so kewl and you can do so much with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That pump/res probably cost more than all the legos he owns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


i dont know ive got A LOT of lego... im not proud


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemanemg;14646452*
> i dont know ive got A LOT of lego... im not proud


Hahaha rofl


----------



## skyn3t

God i just finished my wc setup now with two gtx 570 sli sometimes looks like its raining in my office the pump make this sound like raining. when i had only cpu and one gpu its was fine now its make this raining noise sometimes like 2 to 3 minutes and go away, any thoughts


----------



## Castle02

Up and running now. Although the cables are a bit of a rat's nest, I very happy with my first build. Tons of research and saving pics of other people's builds to get ideas helped immensely.


----------



## skyn3t

definitely you need some cable management. hardware is good but wires are messy


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;14647862*
> God i just finished my wc setup now with two gtx 570 sli sometimes looks like its raining in my office the pump make this sound like raining. when i had only cpu and one gpu its was fine now its make this raining noise sometimes like 2 to 3 minutes and go away, any thoughts


Probably got some air in the line. You could probably clear that up with a purge valve installed somewhere in the loop.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Freakn

Just ordered the Koolance block for my MB today... YAY


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castle02;14648086*
> Up and running now. Although the cables are a bit of a rat's nest, I very happy with my first build. Tons of research and saving pics of other people's builds to get ideas helped immensely.


Reminds me of my HAF build:wubsmiley


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;14647862*
> God i just finished my wc setup now with two gtx 570 sli sometimes looks like its raining in my office the pump make this sound like raining. when i had only cpu and one gpu its was fine now its make this raining noise sometimes like 2 to 3 minutes and go away, any thoughts


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14649481*
> Probably got some air in the line. You could probably clear that up with a purge valve installed somewhere in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Ceadder is right as usual... i had the same problem with my first build.. except i destroyed my pump









al u need to do is thoroughly bleed the air out.. use a piece of tubing if your res has an outlet for it..


----------



## bundymania

My little Collection of Bitspower Stuff


----------



## Boyboyd

There's about £100 worth of fittings there :0


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14663775*
> There's about £100 worth of fittings there :0


My guess would be 2-3x as much as that. Just the snakes rotaries alone have to be worth $150.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14663757*
> My little Collection of Bitspower Stuff


Total budget for fittings: 1,200 USD
Total weight: 45 lbs

By the way, very nice collection, especially the bronze one.


----------



## Smoblikat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;14664118*
> Total budget for fittings: 1.200 USD
> Total weight: 45 lbs
> 
> By the way, very nice collection, especially the bronze one.


Wait, so you got 45lb of fittings for one dollar and twenty cents?


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14663908*
> My guess would be 2-3x as much as that. Just the snakes rotaries alone have to be worth $150.


...must be somewhere around 1200 - 1400 Euros. One of the 5/8" comp. fitting costs 9 € in GER (caseking.de) , "normal" fittings 3-4 € and the snake adapters ~ 20 € each. We have to pay Dollar 1:1 in Euros for BP Stuff


----------



## Castle02

Wow, with that amount of fittings, you won't have to worry about not needing a certain one for any build.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14663757*
> My little Collection of Bitspower Stuff


Everyone guessing the amount of worth lol, I say we should all be talking about bum rushing Bundy lol (just Joking)

I swear this guy has more PC items than PPCS or frozencpu lol! I would kill to have his job that allows him the time and money to have some of the most amazing stuff on this thread. I mean every time he posts it is a jaw dropper right?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14663757*
> My little Collection of Bitspower Stuff


Holy mother of...

Thats insane, easily over a grand there. Thats bad ass.


----------



## Ceadderman

I just want the Red ones and the Black ones with the Red seals.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## nzftw

@Ceadder, pretty sure they are the obsidian range?

...i think i have 1 thing he doesnt in the fitting world....a mini shining silver male-male connector!?

I think i deserve a trophy


----------



## RushMore1205

lol i dont know why anyone cares about what color the seals are, you never see them anyway


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14666180*
> lol i dont know why anyone cares about what color the seals are, you never see them anyway


"No Compromise"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14666180*
> lol i dont know why anyone cares about what color the seals are, you never see them anyway


Actually you do see them if you're looking for them. If you're looking over the top of them, of course you don't see them but if your system is off to the side and you've got UV lights in the right position you will see them.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14666180*
> lol i dont know why anyone cares about what color the seals are, you never see them anyway


unless you have acrylic blocks, then you can kind of see them


----------



## bundymania

You know yourself, that you have colorful o-rings installed, and so the force will be with you, always !


----------



## Castle02

Well, I was hoping for lower temps with my build, so is mid 30 degrees Celsius for a i7 950 @ 3.33 overclock seem right? I have a 240 rad on the front and a 360 rad exiting at the top. Temps were high 30s until I added a rear exhaust fan, the temps dropped a couple of degrees. I was actually hoping for mid 20s. Would it help if I added a bottom intake as well? I'm using a d5 pump with 1/2" id tubing. Loop goes Res-pump-CPU-360 rad-parallel gpu-240 rad-back to Res.

---
- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Castle02

I forgot to mention that I am referring to my CPU temp being in the mid 30s.

---
- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bouf0010

Are you talking about idle temps here?


----------



## Castle02

Yes, sorry.

---
- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bouf0010

I wouldnt worry so much about your idle temps... 3-8 degrees above ambient is perfectly normal. I would check your 100% load temps with prime95 or something like that. Although with that set up you should be fine, you have a pretty mild OC on that cpu.


----------



## Castle02

Ok I will check it with 100% load. Thanks man.

---
- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## THC Butterz

my pc all light up








and how it looks under low light


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14674889*
> *snip*
> *snip*
> and how it looks under low light


that looks amazing. the red led's really don't overpower the uv lights at all. and those tubes just "pop" out of that dark red background. very nice work


----------



## Brulf

Finally got everything setup, i'm just waiting on a low profile 120mm fan for the radiator because the power supplys ATX cable hangs out a little to far but other then that im lovin it









(Pics aren't of the highest quality only have my phone camera till i can buy/borrow a good camera)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Onions

so i need a 4 120mm rad any ideas


----------



## solar0987

Got the new motherboard in, new waterblock for cpu and a blue ray player snuck its way in there.


----------



## lightsout

Anyone got a pic of a setup running dual gpus cooled with universal blocks? I'm thinking two 45's would probably work. I hate anti kink coils btw.


----------



## Castle02

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Butterz is using dual universal gpu blocks.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


so i need a 4 120mm rad any ideas


On a budget? Swiftech MCR420 ~$70

Recommended: XSPC RX480 $115.


----------



## Canis-X

Almost done with it.....what do you all think?

_Note: The phase change cooler is on summer break until the house AC unit is switched over to heat...LOL._























































Some night time shots.....love the first one!!





































Cheers!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *morencyam*


that looks amazing. the red led's really don't overpower the uv lights at all. and those tubes just "pop" out of that dark red background. very nice work










Thank you


----------



## Joining

It's been like this for about a year. Maybe i should upgrade.


----------



## Onions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


On a budget? Swiftech MCR420 ~$70

Recommended: XSPC RX480 $115.


sweet ill be putting the fans from teh group buy on it in push pull will that suffice
edit: on teh RX rad


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


sweet ill be putting the fans from teh group buy on it in push pull will that suffice
edit: on teh RX rad


np







, there's a guy in the f/s selling a used one for $90 shipped, pm for an offer.

Just saw this, tis a shame I already placed an order (arrives tomorrow)


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14682884*
> Just saw this, tis a shame I already placed an order (arrives tomorrow)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.watercool.de/sites/default/files/banner/05_gpux3.jpg












Please tell me that they're going to make that color scheme available for other cards too! I've had my eye on their 580 block for a while, but exposed copper doesn't really blend with my interior.


----------



## FuzzDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;14684780*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me that they're going to make that color scheme available for other cards too! I've had my eye on their 580 block for a while, but exposed copper doesn't really blend with my interior.


The only issue I have with all the cool chrome, color, and all those things associated w/GPU blocks (I have two Koolance 460's)...is you really can't see them once mounted in your case. With the money we're paying them...each GPU block should come w/matching top cover...at least that way you get an overall color scheme/reflective look to everything.

Nice build by the way Joining...clean and nice.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14663757*
> My little Collection of Bitspower Stuff


Really Bundy? This is what happens when im gone for a week?


----------



## Elloquin

System Parts

Case: Silverstone FT03
Motherboard: Asus Maximus IV Gene Z Z68
Processor: Intel 2600K @ 4.6 GHZ 1.35v BIOS
Ram: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics: 2 x XFX 5870 CrossfireX Flashed to MSI Lightning BIOS'
@ 1000 Core 1200 Mem 1.2v
Storage: Corsair Force GT 120GB SSD SATA III 6 GPS OS
Western Digital Velociraptor 300GB 10k RPM Storage/Games
Optical: Sony Optiarc Slot Load Slim Line DVD+R
PSU: NZXT HALE90 80 Plus Gold 1000 Watt Power Supply with Modular Cable

Cooling

CPU Loop: Koolance CPU 370 Water block
1x 200mm Phobya Radiator
1x NZXT FN 200RB 200mm Fan
1x Koolance PMP 400 Pump w/ Koolance Top and Heat sink.
1x Phobya Balancer 250 Silver Nickel Reservoir

GPU Loop: 2 x Koolance VID-AR587 REV2.0
1x 200mm Phobya Radiator
1x Koolance PMP 400 Pump w/ Koolance Top and Heat sink.
1x Phobya Balancer 250 Silver Nickel Reservoir

*Note radiator is cooled by the PSU's Intake Fan and the lower 120mm Case Fan*

Various Bits: Koolance Fittings/ Quick Disconnects/ Single Slot Adjustable SLI Fittings
Tygon ½" ID ¾" OD Silver Antimicrobial Tubing ~5 feet for both loops.
Lamptron Aluminum Hose Clamps
Koolance Non Conductive Fluid
Case Fans: 2 x Zalman ZM-SF3

Temps / Pics:













































































































Very little modding was needed. Basically just widened the 4th PCI slot for the quick disconnects, drilled two holes for the bottom rad to mount (Third is the same screw that mounts the frame for the bottom 120mm fan it just lined up







Fourth is not used as it sits under the psu cable plug), and made 2 notches with a dremel one in the upper right corner for the GPU loop res and one in the bottom 80mm fan mount for clearance for the barbs.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Thats a original build, the rads mounts are innovative and I like what youve done with such a small case, would like to see more builds like this. Good work!


----------



## solar0987

Got my pump and top ordered, got my ress in today not very happy with it they need to learn how to properly coat things both caps were like it. And there were scratches on the ress...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Elloquin*


System Parts

Case: Silverstone FT03
Motherboard: Asus Maximus IV Gene Z Z68
Processor: Intel 2600K @ 4.6 GHZ 1.35v BIOS
Ram: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600 9-9-9-24 1T 
Graphics: 2 x XFX 5870 CrossfireX Flashed to MSI Lightning BIOS' 
@ 1000 Core 1200 Mem 1.2v
Storage: Corsair Force GT 120GB SSD SATA III 6 GPS OS
Western Digital Velociraptor 300GB 10k RPM Storage/Games
Optical: Sony Optiarc Slot Load Slim Line DVD+R
PSU: NZXT HALE90 80 Plus Gold 1000 Watt Power Supply with Modular Cable

Cooling

CPU Loop: Koolance CPU 370 Water block
1x 200mm Phobya Radiator 
1x NZXT FN 200RB 200mm Fan
1x Koolance PMP 400 Pump w/ Koolance Top and Heat sink.
1x Phobya Balancer 250 Silver Nickel Reservoir

GPU Loop: 2 x Koolance VID-AR587 REV2.0
1x 200mm Phobya Radiator 
1x Koolance PMP 400 Pump w/ Koolance Top and Heat sink.
1x Phobya Balancer 250 Silver Nickel Reservoir

*Note radiator is cooled by the PSU's Intake Fan and the lower 120mm Case Fan*

Various Bits: Koolance Fittings/ Quick Disconnects/ Single Slot Adjustable SLI Fittings 
Tygon Â½" ID Â¾" OD Silver Antimicrobial Tubing ~5 feet for both loops.
Lamptron Aluminum Hose Clamps
Koolance Non Conductive Fluid
Case Fans: 2 x Zalman ZM-SF3

Very little modding was needed. Basically just widened the 4th PCI slot for the quick disconnects, drilled two holes for the bottom rad to mount (Third is the same screw that mounts the frame for the bottom 120mm fan it just lined up







Fourth is not used as it sits under the psu cable plug), and made 2 notches with a dremel one in the upper right corner for the GPU loop res and one in the bottom 80mm fan mount for clearance for the barbs.


absolutely amazing build man. I love the way you fit everything inside that case. It looks like a really great machine.


----------



## Castle02

@Elloquin - everything is so neat and tidy for such a small space! Nice build!!


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Got my pump and top ordered, got my ress in today not very happy with it they need to learn how to properly coat things both caps were like it. And there were scratches on the ress...


It almost looks like you got an item that was returned at one point, put back on the shelf and shipped to you.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*


It almost looks like you got an item that was returned at one point, put back on the shelf and shipped to you.


Ya its supposed to be black nickel. Looks like brass showing throught all over on the inside. Will that hurt my loop?


----------



## Ceadderman

I would return it and get something else. But that's me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Ya its supposed to be black nickel. Looks like brass showing throught all over on the inside. Will that hurt my loop?


If its coming off that easily, theres a potential of it clogging up blocks.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14663757*
> My little Collection of Bitspower Stuff


Makes me want to walk up to that table and with both hands, scramble it all up!

Nice collection though!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## solar0987

Any advice on a good ress to get i don't want a bay ress.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14696673*
> Any advice on a good ress to get i don't want a bay ress.


Depends on what your tastes are. You want shiny? What length, how many fitting options?

I would say go with an EK Multioption from a reputable source, but I don't know if you want shiny or if you're okay with simple Black. Personally I would stay away from plated components as much as possible. But there have been people in the past that got poorly turned out EK Multioption caps. This is why I say to get it from someone reputable. That way you can contact them and get it replaced should anything look sketchy to you or is not to your complete satisfaction.

I think Bay components have their place but I love tube Reservoirs. They look awesome when they're set up properly.

Another good one would be FrozenQ Helix Res. But those are a bit spendy.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elloquin;14690103*
> System Parts
> 
> Case: Silverstone FT03
> Motherboard: Asus Maximus IV Gene Z Z68
> Processor: Intel 2600K @ 4.6 GHZ 1.35v BIOS
> Ram: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600 9-9-9-24 1T
> Graphics: 2 x XFX 5870 CrossfireX Flashed to MSI Lightning BIOS'
> @ 1000 Core 1200 Mem 1.2v
> Storage: Corsair Force GT 120GB SSD SATA III 6 GPS OS
> Western Digital Velociraptor 300GB 10k RPM Storage/Games
> Optical: Sony Optiarc Slot Load Slim Line DVD+R
> PSU: NZXT HALE90 80 Plus Gold 1000 Watt Power Supply with Modular Cable
> 
> Cooling
> 
> CPU Loop: Koolance CPU 370 Water block
> 1x 200mm Phobya Radiator
> 1x NZXT FN 200RB 200mm Fan
> 1x Koolance PMP 400 Pump w/ Koolance Top and Heat sink.
> 1x Phobya Balancer 250 Silver Nickel Reservoir
> 
> GPU Loop: 2 x Koolance VID-AR587 REV2.0
> 1x 200mm Phobya Radiator
> 1x Koolance PMP 400 Pump w/ Koolance Top and Heat sink.
> 1x Phobya Balancer 250 Silver Nickel Reservoir
> 
> *Note radiator is cooled by the PSU's Intake Fan and the lower 120mm Case Fan*
> 
> Various Bits: Koolance Fittings/ Quick Disconnects/ Single Slot Adjustable SLI Fittings
> Tygon ½" ID ¾" OD Silver Antimicrobial Tubing ~5 feet for both loops.
> Lamptron Aluminum Hose Clamps
> Koolance Non Conductive Fluid
> Case Fans: 2 x Zalman ZM-SF3
> 
> Temps / Pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very little modding was needed. Basically just widened the 4th PCI slot for the quick disconnects, drilled two holes for the bottom rad to mount (Third is the same screw that mounts the frame for the bottom 120mm fan it just lined up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fourth is not used as it sits under the psu cable plug), and made 2 notches with a dremel one in the upper right corner for the GPU loop res and one in the bottom 80mm fan mount for clearance for the barbs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14690449*
> Thats a original build, the rads mounts are innovative and I like what youve done with such a small case, would like to see more builds like this. Good work!


I agree man... beautiful build...


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14690480*
> Got my pump and top ordered, got my ress in today not very happy with it they need to learn how to properly coat things both caps were like it. And there were scratches on the ress...


I would deff send that back.. it cant hurt to make sure everything is in perfect order... I know waiting on mail sucks... But whats a few more days in the face of possible loop damage...


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14696673*
> Any advice on a good ress to get i don't want a bay ress.


I really like the ones over at www.FrozenQpcmods.com

but they have been real flakey about shipping in a timely fashion...

so as long as u dont mind waiting... i think those are far and away the nicest RES's


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I agree. I love my T-Virus res







Can't say much about shipping as sending it within the US is not really comparable to sending to NZ. First one got lost in the mail and Alex had no reservations about making and sending a second one to me. Good guy


----------



## wermad




----------



## Freakn

If I remember right you've gone from Tri Sli 1.2gb 470's to Tri Fire 2gb 6950's unlocked (or was it quad) to the Tri Sli 3gb 580's just this year alone...

Lucky Barstard


----------



## Mongol

nice 'little' upgrade there wer!


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14698704*
> Depends on what your tastes are. You want shiny? What length, how many fitting options?
> 
> I would say go with an EK Multioption from a reputable source, but I don't know if you want shiny or if you're okay with simple Black. Personally I would stay away from plated components as much as possible. But there have been people in the past that got poorly turned out EK Multioption caps. This is why I say to get it from someone reputable. That way you can contact them and get it replaced should anything look sketchy to you or is not to your complete satisfaction.
> 
> I think Bay components have their place but I love tube Reservoirs. They look awesome when they're set up properly.
> 
> Another good one would be FrozenQ Helix Res. But those are a bit spendy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Black is ok with me about 150 mm is size,ports on top and bottom thats about it want it to look good.
I just want a good tube ress that doesn't hurt the wallet to much haha, i think ill be getting the 150 multi option advanced i hope the caps are right.
Seeing if frozen cpu will just exchange for that. They knew the ress weren't up to par....... what kind of crap is that lol


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14699428*


That looks amazing!!!!!


----------



## Opp47

Hey quick question... Any ideas on why im getting such different results????


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;14699694*
> If I remember right you've gone from Tri Sli 1.2gb 470's to Tri Fire 2gb 6950's unlocked (or was it quad) to the Tri Sli 3gb 580's just this year alone...
> 
> Lucky Barstard


Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;14699737*
> nice 'little' upgrade there wer!


Thanks guys, not much different looking than before (three 6950s) but new power house should rock three monitor gaming.

btw, I'm a very indecisive person but this last case it was a matter of ditching amd and their driver headaches I had and going full blown nvidia. Should last me a couple of years. I promise


----------



## Haze_hellivo

That ac 97 cable is retro.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Thanks guys, not much different looking than before (three 6950s) but new power house should rock three monitor gaming.

btw, I'm a very indecisive person but this last case it was a matter of ditching amd and their driver headaches I had and going full blown nvidia. Should last me a couple of years. I promise










hahahha right, as soon as kepler comes out i will see you selling those on here and going that route


----------



## madevil20

What do you think guys?








Cables look messy with the case open, but theyÂ´re completly hiding when the side panel is on.


----------



## EnJoY

Stunning stuff.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madevil20;14701635*
> What do you think guys?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cables look messy with the case open, but they´re completly hiding when the side panel is on.


Hello from Guimarães and welcome to the club!

Rig needs more cable management.


----------



## skyn3t

I need some opinion here,today I'll put my new back plate and as you guys can see on my Dual VID Connector I had created this little white guy there and right on top you can see Black Koolance Dual VID Connector Adj 2-3 Slot, i was thinking to stay with my little white Dual VID Connector because looks like it was made there, don't you think ? or I go ahead and put the real deal there? so far my setup has been give me only happiness, CPU Idle on 30's c to 35c full load 78c only in Prime95 and I manager to get its clock down when i don't need it, as you can see on the Real Temp right on top the difference between Eleet and CPU-z, GPU's Idle 32c to 35c I notice 3c difference between the first and sec card i think is normal

























any thoughts.


----------



## Term`

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;14614262*


Perfection,























only thing I would do different is black sheathing, but that is purely personal preference


----------



## Nemesis429

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!;14614262*


what case is this


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Term`;14708500*
> Perfection,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only thing I would do different is black sheathing, but that is purely personal preference


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis429;14708873*
> what case is this


Thermaltake Spedo Advanced.


----------



## Ceadderman

Doesn't even look like a crap Tt case. Awesome job. Looks so much more different when you flip the internals.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## B3RGY

If your going to quote large photo galleries, please snip them down.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;14712193*
> If your going to quote large photo galleries, please snip them down.


Eh? Those photos were 800x600. Pretty small already imo.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14713837*
> Eh? Those photos were 800x600. Pretty small already imo.


he means take out some of the pictures, we only need one picture to know which ones you are quoting.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup. No need for all pics to be quoted unless they're different shots and are asking questions about each one.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## lightsout

I also agree that the above pictures are beautiful. So clean, love it.


----------



## pac0tac0

i wonder whos gonna be the first post of page 1337









hahaha jk that rig is amazing i really like the upside down mobo mount, these odd mobo mounting placements are becoming more popular it seems.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14715531*
> Yup. No need for all pics to be quoted...
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yes, agree and I believe Kev asked to do this aswell to keep down the congestion if its not necessary.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14715531*
> ...unless they're different shots and are asking questions about each one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I think if this was the intention of the member quoting, a pm would be more appropriate if she/he needs more information/clarification/questions about a persons build. I get these pm(s) all the time and I'm happy to answer them for members asking about my build.


----------



## MKHunt

This is actually before cable management when they were all just barfed out the right side.



And IDK. What is cameras? How does operate?





Trying to figure out how I'm going to stealth the res. Also, it seems to always tilt upwards in the case and none of the screw holes line up on the right side. Gotta figure that out too.

You have no idea how much I hate that speaker. Might just remove it then stick it on when I have trouble. PSU sleeved all the way which makes things... tight. If I get ambitious I have some sheet steel, green LEDs, and lexan in the garage so I could make a PSU cover with l;exan on top then steel on top of that and an LED embedded in the lexan connected to a fan header. IDK. School is busy.


----------



## superhead91

@MKHunt Looks good


----------



## lowfat

MKHunt, not a fan of the bright green HDD trays. Kind of wrecks the flow of things. But otherwise it looks fantastic. That is one cramped 690II


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt;14715910*


Love the colors MKHunt


----------



## polar

Here is a system I built for myself a few weeks back,Used koolance stuff along with a Biostar P67 extreme board.Ran it for a couple weeks have it torn apart on the bench now waiting for a Asrock P67 board.

List of parts:
Koolance RP-980 Pump/res combo
Koolance RP-401X2 Bay res 2 pump option
Koolance TNK-501 Bay res only
Koolance HXP-135 Heat ex-changer
Koolance HX-CU420V Radiator, 1x120mm 30-FPI Copper X2
Koolance CPU-370 (CPU), 1.5mm Midplate
Koolance PMP-400 pump


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice build, but a lot of tubing for a CPU only loop


----------



## MKHunt

ETA:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14716216*
> MKHunt, not a fan of the bright green HDD trays. Kind of wrecks the flow of things. But otherwise it looks fantastic. That is one cramped 690II


It's one of the features of the nvidia edition. I love the green on the front (because it very nearly matches the fan as seen through the mesh) but if I had my way the HDD trays would be black with the branding done in green. I suppose I could always smear polymer clay into the lettering then paint them black and scratch the polymer out.... CM game me six trays. This needs to happen. I have no classes on Fridays (I'm a scheduling ninja). Curse you modding bug!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14716305*
> Love the colors MKHunt


Thanks everyone! Every day I wish it were color in the singular (I don't count black as a color). I know spiderm0nkey shares this sentiment. Maybe tinted acrylic as a side panel would help. I like the looks enough I'm halfway tempted to do a 100% acrylic side panel, though my temps are ~2C higher with it on...

Advice from seasoned WCers to drop that 2C difference? This is my first WC and I'd be a liar if I said I was displeased with my work. Assembly took two days due to leak testing but it was most definitely worth it.

I know martin's liquid lab and skineelabs suggest I'd get slightly better (or at worst similar) temps with more fans in pull but I don't have the heart. They're just so _pretty_.

Though admittedly one of them is making slight zztzing sounds. I knew when I opened it that it would have to be RMAed sooner or later due to the gigantic smattering of goop under one side in a clear attempt to balance it. I'm in no rush though as they come with a five year warranty. That's right, my fans have the longest warranty of any component in my case (or the case itself for that matter) other than PSU, RAM, and GPU which are all lifetime.

Every time I type a short response it ends up being really long


----------



## wermad

^^^ What tim are you using? A really good one might knock down those couple of degrees you are looking for. Also, ambient temps will throw off your temps compared to a closed environment, testing lab.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14716953*
> ^^^ What tim are you using? A really good one might knock down those couple of degrees you are looking for. Also, ambient temps will throw off your temps compared to a closed environment, testing lab.


IC Diamond. They snagged me when I wanted to reduce laptop temps and I've been a fan ever since. Ambients will definitely go down in the winter, but I might drop the A/C to 68 if that's the only way. That combined with an overclocked 590 (calculating ~600W peak draw, plus I'm a heavy bencher and power user) will make the power company just _love_ us.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Haha yep I know what you mean MK







It's a never ending battle to try and have just one shade of green in the case! I'm pleased with how it looks so far and I don't really plan on adding any more green into the system.


----------



## jellis142

Spider, is that a kink I spy in the top right? Other then that, it's so simple and clean


----------



## Zamoldac

I spy a kink in the tubing







.


----------



## mav2000

Can anyone tell me what are the screw sizes and lengths for the XSPC dual bay front panel as well as the screws sizes and lengths for it to be attached to the 5 1/4" bays?


----------



## thresh0ld




----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yeah it's definitely a kink







Still trying to work out how to fix it. Tricky angle to try and deal with unfortunately. Works fine but I'm certainly not going to leave it like that. I've got a cable tie around it atm to help it hold its shape better.


----------



## Term`

you guys are incredible, wish I had the knowledge/time/money and skill to do this sort of thing !


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

spider. get a 45 for that fitting and it shouldn't be a problem anymore.


----------



## Indulgence

*THRESHOLD :*

Hey fellow tpc'er







constantanxiety!


----------



## thresh0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence;14718746*
> *THRESHOLD :*
> 
> Hey fellow tpc'er
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> constantanxiety!


haha, hello master!


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14714491*
> he means take out some of the pictures, we only need one picture to know which ones you are quoting.


Right


----------



## _craven_

Here are some random shots













































Family members (click the 'Hidden Text Below!')


----------



## Canis-X

Very nice!







Your system title doesn't fit though....LOL

What's in the other case? Got pics of it?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

spider. get a 45 for that fitting and it shouldn't be a problem anymore.


Already have and it won't really make much difference. Still a really horrible angle. I wish we could get the snake rotaries here







Would look so much tidier.


----------



## nzftw

CL have all their fittings back in-stock. CL

Just grab a matte black multi link adapter, from what im seeing it would make it more parallel with the CPU outlet...which would help.

EDIT: They also got 90degree rotaries in aswell.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14723949*
> CL have all their fittings back in-stock. CL
> 
> Just grab a matte black multi link adapter, from what im seeing it would make it more parallel with the CPU outlet...which would help.
> 
> EDIT: They also got 90degree rotaries in aswell.


Yeah I was gonna say they have 90s' but your tubing matters as much as your fittings.

I think I got the prerun distance right, maybe a little long.










No kinks.


















But the black marks are gonna drive me bonkers.



















Anyone know how to minimize this? I think that PrimoChill is a little thicker in diameter than EK fittings are in ID. I measured the ID and it's spot on but the compression rings take some doing to slide without rubbing the tube.









Think I should get 1/2"x5/8" tubing instead?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14723949*
> CL have all their fittings back in-stock. CL
> 
> Just grab a matte black multi link adapter, from what im seeing it would make it more parallel with the CPU outlet...which would help.
> 
> EDIT: They also got 90degree rotaries in aswell.


I wish we had the snake rotaries here. I'd use one of them instead. Would look so much nicer


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14724566*
> I wish we had the snake rotaries here. I'd use one of them instead. Would look so much nicer


if you want I would be willing to buy one for you and send it to you. I have helped people in Australia with stuff like that, New Zealand works too.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14724628*
> if you want I would be willing to buy one for you and send it to you. I have helped people in Australia with stuff like that, New Zealand works too.


I think I would love you forever... I could do it myself but the international shipping is usually pretty silly on items like that. I'd take cheap, plain old parcel post over expensive be-there-in-two-days courier any day!


----------



## Freakn

Going to be swapping things around a bit today ready for RX480










Yeah, I know, color/glare is crap in the photo but just from my iPhone


----------



## Ceadderman

Is that a Mips FC block? Closeups, need closeups!!









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Freakn

Nah mate it's the Koolance block which I got reduce by 25% and also scored a free Koolance t-shirt to my surprise


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice. I got my EK and didn't get anything but the block. Now if I can just get all the parts I need to complete it I'll be a happy camper.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14726223*
> Nice. I got my EK and didn't get anything but the block. Now if I can just get all the parts I need to complete it I'll be a happy camper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Free barbs when I bought from ppcs


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14726290*
> Free barbs when I bought from ppcs


I didn't get any. Not that U need Barbs when you've got the Comps. That an I got mine used.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Realityntatt

quick question... is it enough to cool a cpu and 1 gpu with a 240 rasa kit? or with a 360? or do I need double radiator to cool them?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Realityntatt;14726443*
> quick question... is it enough to cool a cpu and 1 gpu with a 240 rasa kit? or with a 360? or do I need double radiator to cool them?


Really depends on the gpu. What are you planning?


----------



## XiDillon

im sure you could pull it off with just a 240. plus using larger tubing would help.


----------



## Realityntatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14726488*
> Really depends on the gpu. What are you planning?


hd 6950 ( flash it if I can )


----------



## XiDillon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14718179*
> Yeah it's definitely a kink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still trying to work out how to fix it. Tricky angle to try and deal with unfortunately. Works fine but I'm certainly not going to leave it like that. I've got a cable tie around it atm to help it hold its shape better.


cut longer hose, or purchase a 45 degree swivel adapter. /problem

EDIT: I know you dont make sandwiches but could you please bake me some cookies?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Realityntatt;14726494*
> hd 6950 ( flash it if I can )


Caymans do produce a lot of heat. You can get away with a RS240 and some really good fans (GT AP15s). I would recommend the RX240, if you have the space, an RS360 is also ideal especially if you plan to crossfire down the road. Good luck with your Cayman, I had an ok time unlocking and running tri-fire 6950/70s


----------



## Ceadderman

Anyone have any idea how to keep this White PrimoChill tubing looking white when messing with Black Nickel fittings? I asked earlier but it might have gotten buried since I asked at the bottom instead of the top of my post.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14726965*
> Anyone have any idea how to keep this White PrimoChill tubing looking white when messing with Black Nickel fittings? I asked earlier but it might have gotten buried since I asked at the bottom instead of the top of my post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


White tubing looking white is the issue???









Mine does easily get dirty with any smudge or even sitting on a dirty rag (from the days of my dye loops) will stain it.


----------



## Realityntatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14726958*
> Caymans do produce a lot of heat. You can get away with a RS240 and some really good fans (GT AP15s). I would recommend the RX240, if you have the space, an RS360 is also ideal especially if you plan to crossfire down the road. Good luck with your Cayman, I had an ok time unlocking and running tri-fire 6950/70s


Thanks for the info man!!! my case will be a nzxt phantom (white) and hopefully I can flash the card to 6970


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14726998*
> White tubing looking white is the issue???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine does easily get dirty with any smudge or even sitting on a dirty rag (from the days of my dye loops) will stain it.


Yeah but these Black Nickel fittings seem to rub off pretty easily around the collar. The interior portion seems to be okay. It's just where the ring collar contacts the tubing. My OCD won't stand for that, which is why I was asking about a way to keep the tubing clean during assembly. I know that it's not going to stay clean but I'd like to keep the black to a minimum.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14727101*
> Yeah but these Black Nickel fittings seem to rub off pretty easily around the collar. The interior portion seems to be okay. It's just where the ring collar contacts the tubing. My OCD won't stand for that, which is why I was asking about a way to keep the tubing clean during assembly. I know that it's not going to stay clean but I'd like to keep the black to a minimum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Ah, ok. I have that too where the ring compresses the tubing, it looks a bit dirty. Hmmm...maybe some white teflon tape to wrap around the tube's tip and then just trim off any excess that comes out of the top of the ring.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14727127*
> Ah, ok. I have that too where the ring compresses the tubing, it looks a bit dirty. Hmmm...maybe some white teflon tape to wrap around the tube's tip and then just trim off any excess that comes out of the top of the ring.


Ahhhhh yup, so OCD I didn't even think of that myself.







Still, the rings are pretty tight. May not work. But I have teflon tape, I'll try wrapping and using scotch tape to keep the top end locked down and give myself a bit of sleeve to allow the rings to travel upward.
















Thanks werm. Works great!









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Darkcyde

New black tewbing.....


----------



## _craven_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X;14721181*
> Very nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your system title doesn't fit though....LOL
> 
> What's in the other case? Got pics of it?


Hehe ..
2x 420 rads, 1x 360 rad, optical disc drive, and a fan controller


----------



## Ceadderman

Black isn't bad if it doesn't blend into my case too much. But being that the interior is Black, my MoBo is Copper with Black and Red, Black would be too much. Also it doesn't reflect Red too well. So I went with white.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## nzftw

Hey ceadder, how about sleeving your tubing white? ive seen it done with black and it looks pretty nice!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkcyde;14727925*
> New black tewbing.....


I'm waiting for the Alien to appear somewhere from the shadows.

Tis nice a pic you got there, nice rig too, though gpu need water


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14726965*
> Anyone have any idea how to keep this White PrimoChill tubing looking white when messing with Black Nickel fittings? I asked earlier but it might have gotten buried since I asked at the bottom instead of the top of my post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


what about using some isopropylene??


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XiDillon;14726523*
> cut longer hose, or purchase a 45 degree swivel adapter. /problem
> 
> EDIT: I know you dont make sandwiches but could you please bake me some cookies?


I already bought a 45 degree adapter and it's not going to work tidily. I don't have any more of this tubing either. Someone on a different forum was kind enough to send it to me as we can't get this tubing in New Zealand







So I'm a bit stuck at the moment. Although am working out the logistics of bending up some copper tube instead of buying another rotary. I know someone who could easily do it for me.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;14728564*
> what about using some isopropylene??


Doesn't work as far as I know. I marked a cut point with a Sharpie. Fresh ink. Wiped it right off mark is forever in the tubing.









No worries though. I'll just make sure to use teflon tape from here on and get another longer length of tubing since I need to get enough to install a drain in my setup.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Freakn

Got my MB block installed today as well as the 4890's and decided to change the layout around a bit ready for a RX480 once it arrives

Still need to decide on the final location for the res so their is room for a 3rd 4890

Plus make the new custom hard drive and front mounted PSU mounts so their is room for the 480 on the bottom and the 360 at the rear in its current location.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkcyde;14727925*
> New black tewbing.....


Awesome. It looks like your cfx bridge is also glowing.


----------



## 12Cores

This is ready as my rig is going to be for Battlefield 3 - Picked up a new power supply and another 5770.

3Dmark 11 P-Score 5,182 vs BF3


----------



## EM2J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;14737447*
> Got my MB block installed today as well as the 4890's and decided to change the layout around a bit ready for a RX480 once it arrives
> 
> Still need to decide on the final location for the res so their is room for a 3rd 4890
> 
> Plus make the new custom hard drive and front mounted PSU mounts so their is room for the 480 on the bottom and the 360 at the rear in its current location.


holy crap that looks nothing like an rv02 lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EM2J;14740848*
> holy crap that looks nothing like an rv02 lol


I was thinking the same thing


----------



## B3RGY

double post sorry


----------



## Khalam

hey guys, im after getting a new case and its time to do a new build im gone be mostly reusing the bits I already own but if you think i could use something extra or change something please let me know time for first pics


----------



## B3RGY

nice build khalam, but your PCI and 24pin mobo power cables are a little loose, other than that its great


----------



## Ceadderman

TinyTom Logan just did an hour long review of that bad boy. Must say it's wicked badazz and a water cooling dream. In the M8 alone you can stuff four 360s' and two 240s' in it before you even look at the back where you can hang ANOTHER two 360s' off of. Not to mention if you were REALLY insane you could have another two on top. Then if you added the pedestal and 70mm lid?









I did find it a bit funny that he didn't understand what the access plate on the bottom of the pedestal is for. Like you're gonna be able to mount it to the bottom securely any other way.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Khalam

thanks lads ill try to tighten up those braids and ill do the tubing today


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EM2J;14740848*
> holy crap that looks nothing like an rv02 lol


Always have intensions of altering it a fair bit. Best case I could afford at the time that had the features I wan't.

Previously had the hdd's below the PSU in it's stock location and a 360 in the drive bay'


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;14742676*
> thanks lads ill try to tighten up those braids and ill do the tubing today


You dont need to plug that board molex, its only necessary for 3/4 cards or you can route it behind the from the bottom back the cards slot brackets.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;14741350*
> hey guys, im after getting a new case and its time to do a new build im gone be mostly reusing the bits I already own but if you think i could use something extra or change something please let me know time for first pics


that is one mighty fine PC, but all that money into it and no gpu waterblocks??


----------



## Khalam

still waiting for people to make them for the lightning plus tbh the 580 ive got are just a get me by until 7990 comes out ive had quad 6990s on water in my previous build but sold them and got the 2x 580s+ coolerexpress ss unit+ th10 case


----------



## lowfat

There was a company in Germany doing a custom batch. Liquid Ecstasy or something like that. But they come to around $275 shipped for a nickel plated one. Way out of my price range. But that is probably the only block you'll ever see get made for the cards.


----------



## Khalam

there is a lad on xs that does them for a 100 euro but he hasnt contacted me back yet btw ive spent the last 5h setting everything up and im up and running im gone take a few pics now and post them in the next h or so


----------



## Khalam

guys sadly my son decided he has other plans today and got up at 6:15 in the morning... needles to say i hadnt had time to take many photos, so here is a teaser and ill post the rest in the evening still i must say that its been a pleasure setting up wc in this case and I cant believe how easy and quick it was


----------



## jellis142

That board is mine next paycheck *very serious face*. Makes me giggle a little when a case swallows up an EATX so easily like that


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142;14748151*
> That board is mine next paycheck *very serious face*. Makes me giggle a little when a case swallows up an EATX so easily like that


Pretty certain that is not an EATX Mainboard. Looks more like a MicroATX, so of course the case swallowed it. As well it should have.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14752387*
> Pretty certain that is not an EATX Mainboard. Looks more like a MicroATX, so of course the case swallowed it. As well it should have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


The MIVE is EATX.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3;14752482*
> The MIVE is EATX.


:doh:Oh yeah. Okay then that's a std ATX. You can see my confusion when you see the extra standoff holes outside the Mainboard though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14752529*
> :doh:Oh yeah. Okay then that's a std ATX. You can see my confusion when you see the extra standoff holes outside the Mainboard though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


that case through me off at first too, I couldnt imagine having that much room to play with, I'de get lost inside


----------



## Khalam

its great easiest water setup ever ill post more pics in a2-3h when im gone have some time from work and family and its an eatx board, the extra mounts are for a sr-2 board


----------



## Ceadderman

Damn that Case is bigger than I thought then.









I stand corrected.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Brulf

Finally got a chance to play with the new camera, Much nicer then my previous images


----------



## nzftw

That PSU isnt trying to get intake from the acrylic plate its against is it?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14757807*
> That PSU isnt trying to get intake from the acrylic plate its against is it?


It is aluminum but holy crap you are right. That PSU must be starving for air.

EDIT: Maybe not. Sticker is upside down on that PSU.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14752387*
> Pretty certain that is not an EATX Mainboard. Looks more like a MicroATX, so of course the case swallowed it. As well it should have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I would pay to see someone put a micro atx in that case...







no but seriously, it would be like buying a 50ft cargo container to store a single pc in


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14758191*
> It is aluminum but holy crap you are right. That PSU must be starving for air.
> 
> EDIT: Maybe not. Sticker is upside down on that PSU.


You are in fact correct lol intake is under the PSU and there's a good 40mm clearance to the vents under


----------



## jellis142

I'd pay to have someone build a monster ITX rig in a TH10.


----------



## Khalam

ok guys time for a little picture madness


----------



## Khalam




----------



## Khalam




----------



## Haze_hellivo

Thats a good looking rig, case is too big for the hardware I would like to see that in a FT03 case.

The size of those cases is absurd I wouldnt trade my case for one of those .


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14759426*
> Thats a good looking rig, case is too big for the hardware I would like to see that in a FT03 case.
> 
> The size of those cases is absurd I wouldnt trade my case for one of those .


You are most definitely not the person they were designed for then. The amount of room, range of options, and build quality can't be beat, IMO.

If he adds a ton of stuff in the future or gets creative with options, he won't need to get another case.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;14759457*
> You are most definitely not the person they were designed for then. The amount of room, range of options, and build quality can't be beat, IMO.
> 
> If he adds a ton of stuff in the future or gets creative with options, he won't need to get another case.


^this. He could put a minifridge in the thing... lol


----------



## bob808

I see quite a few super clean looking setups, and then think to myself..
Where are the HDD's and optical drives?

I realise that you can use usb optical drives, but are some of you guys using external storage/boot drives also?

Kinda seems like cheating to me for some reason. I just perfer to have an in-chassis optical for loading software and burning/backup.

Example in thumbnail-


----------



## t-ramp

Project Nobility, v1:










I'll probably have a full loop (CPU & GPU) going sooner or later. For now it's the Enzotech Sapphire on the 480, a RX240, and a MCP355 + XSPC reservoir top.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14761810*
> ^this. He could put a minifridge in the thing... lol


he already has one thats where he stores his beers


----------



## bob808

Real nice wooden rig there









Also Khalam-
Very nice rig there, just a couple of comments.









1. It wouldve been nice if the auxillary molex power for the gpu was located on the upper edge of the motherbaord so you wouldn't have to drag your nicely sleeved cable across your mobo.

2. Why are the bolts for the mounting hardware for your cpu block so darn long?

Neither of these issues are your design, but you may be able to replace those long ass bolts with appropriate lengthed bolts.

And a suggestion for you would be to put at least an exhaust fan on the rear of the case (on this side) so a bit of air will be drawn over the motherboard heatsinks. I personally would put an exhaust and an intake right there in front of the SSDs, especially since your GPUs are'nt watercooled.

Looks beautiful


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;14761949*
> Project Nobility, v1:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll probably have a full loop (CPU & GPU) going sooner or later. For now it's the Enzotech Sapphire on the 480, a RX240, and a MCP355 + XSPC reservoir top.


Are you water cooling your HDDs' with the loop? Cause the only Watercooling I see going on is the H50. Even though you have what looks to be the start if a custom loop.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14762110*
> Are you water cooling your HDDs' with the loop? Cause the only Watercooling I see going on is the H50. Even though you have what looks to be the start if a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I have an Enzotech CPU block on the video card.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh okay I see it now. I didn't enlarge it so it just look like a stocker card.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Bouf0010

just thought id share my recent additions - EK VRM block for my p67 sabertooth
- EK Dominator RAM block (overkill i know lol)

soon to be added - EK block for my GTX580 DirectCUII


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*


just thought id share my recent additions - EK VRM block for my p67 sabertooth
- EK Dominator RAM block (overkill i know lol)

soon to be added - EK block for my GTX580 DirectCUII

*snip*











Are you leak testing is that why the 8pin power is disconnected?









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Are you leak testing is that why the 8pin power is disconnected?









~Ceadder










yeah, those are extensions, the 24 pin is disconnected at the back and so are my HDD power cables


----------



## Ceadderman

Aha. Cool, that's what I thought. Looks good though. How do you like your Enzotech fittings? They look really sharp.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Aha. Cool, that's what I thought. Looks good though. How do you like your Enzotech fittings? They look really sharp.









~Ceadder










i like the angle adapters but not so much the fittings themselves as they are a little looser fitting than the EK ones. But they do the job for sure.

Thanks!


----------



## Khalam

glad you like it guys ill try to reroute that molex to go under the gpus, if it goes for the cpu mount its so big because its my Single Stage units mount that fits so I aint taken it off makes it handy since I use the ss unit every day for benching (thats why I dont have an intake and exhaust fans), i can just unplug the powercables, take the mb tray out, insulate the cpu socket, connect the ss and power and im off


----------



## Boyboyd

My overclocked 480 is folding at 34 degrees now, in summer.

This watercooling was worth every single penny.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14764992*
> My overclocked 480 is folding at 34 degrees now, in summer.
> 
> This watercooling was worth every single penny.


Room temps?

What WUs are you folding?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14763143*
> just thought id share my recent additions - EK VRM block for my p67 sabertooth
> - EK Dominator RAM block (overkill i know lol)
> 
> soon to be added - EK block for my GTX580 DirectCUII


Good to see some more pictures of the rig!

Doing the res mod in a few weeks time. ( i know i said that 2 months ago







)


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;14768537*
> Good to see some more pictures of the rig!
> 
> Doing the res mod in a few weeks time. ( i know i said that 2 months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


thanks!!

finally got the leak testing done (im over waiting 12+ hours)

heres an updated pic

few tiny bubbles left but that'll work its way out.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14768707*
> thanks!!
> 
> finally got the leak testing done (im over waiting 12+ hours)
> 
> heres an updated pic
> 
> few tiny bubbles left but that'll work its way out.


Dem fans be Gelids (or nanoxia)!

I approve







No PWM variants?


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14768707*
> thanks!!
> 
> finally got the leak testing done (im over waiting 12+ hours)
> 
> heres an updated pic
> 
> few tiny bubbles left but that'll work its way out.


Very very nice job!

I was just wondering, dont you worry when you use compression fittings instead of the traditional -more safe- regular fittings?

I really like how the (rotary) compression fittings look, but is it worth to worry whether or not the internal ring will become 'loose' or if the tube will beome loose with time?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14765703*
> Room temps?
> 
> What WUs are you folding?


21.2 Celsius right now, but it's early morning. Folding a 6083 WU.


----------



## bundymania

Hello Boys and Girlzzzzzzz....in ~ 1 week the parcel guys delivered my this new stuff....have a look


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

is that rad aluminum?


----------



## bundymania

only the outer fins - same as mora 3 series

http://watercool.de/wbb/board1-watercool-support/4182-produktinfo-htf4-serie/


----------



## Arksz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14768707*
> thanks!!
> 
> finally got the leak testing done (im over waiting 12+ hours)
> 
> heres an updated pic
> 
> few tiny bubbles left but that'll work its way out.


Look great! What tubing are you using?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt;14768840*
> Dem fans be Gelids (or nanoxia)!
> 
> I approve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No PWM variants?


Gelids they are! I love em, super quiet. I got those bad boys on a fan controller








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco;14770116*
> Very very nice job!
> 
> I was just wondering, dont you worry when you use compression fittings instead of the traditional -more safe- regular fittings?
> 
> I really like how the (rotary) compression fittings look, but is it worth to worry whether or not the internal ring will become 'loose' or if the tube will beome loose with time?


Actually ive had more problems in the past with barb fittings, getting the zip ties or metal clamps to fit tight enough.

Since ive switched to compression fittings, no leaks, at all. I find that with time the tube tends to settle into place and have less chance of moving.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arksz;14771977*
> Look great! What tubing are you using?


Thats a combination of Primochill (the long ones coming out of the bottom) and feser blue. I didnt feel like going through the pain of trying to do ALL new tubing, especially what i have going on underneath with the res and pump.


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14771515*


Wow... I know that she is getting paid to stand there, but wow!


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scaz*


Wow... I know that she is getting paid to stand there, but wow!


I know right? That case is huge!







...


----------



## BALAST

Something to brag about, how big watercooled cases attract girls in bikinis.


----------



## RushMore1205

is this rad any good???????????

looks interesting

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13...201.html#blank


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco;14770116*
> Very very nice job!
> 
> I was just wondering, dont you worry when you use compression fittings instead of the traditional -more safe- regular fittings?
> 
> I really like how the (rotary) compression fittings look, but is it worth to worry whether or not the internal ring will become 'loose' or if the tube will beome loose with time?


The only time you have to worry about leaks from Comps is if you use the wrong size tubing for the outer ring allowing flex. Compression fittings have been in use for decades with air lines for every application from paint compressors to automotive shocks. Which is why I'll never use barbs.









@Bundy.... That GTF 4 is just







Where do you get it, how much and what are the dimensions?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14768707*
> thanks!!
> 
> finally got the leak testing done (im over waiting 12+ hours)
> 
> heres an updated pic
> 
> few tiny bubbles left but that'll work its way out.


need a 15" cathode instead of the 12 inside the res. I had the same problem of dullness at the top until I swapped it out. Just bought a random one from ppcs and pulled it out of the tube


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;14777306*
> need a 15" cathode instead of the 12 inside the res. I had the same problem of dullness at the top until I swapped it out. Just bought a random one from ppcs and pulled it out of the tube


Oh yeah good idea, i have 2 15" cathodes in my case right now, maybe ill just swap one







Im gonna be placing things differently once i get my GPU block, ill remember to do it then!


----------



## EL3M3NT_Z3R0

Gets the job done and looks good.


----------



## RussianJ

Long overdue update. My Mod (HAF on High) hit a snag when some hinges failed, so for now I am using the base as a double wide for now. Sorry about the shots, best I can do untill I get that new DSLR.

Since last update, New BP Black Comps everywhere. HK 69xx block, new RX360 W/55mm Tk-122s, removed the face plate from the Sapphire as it prevented my fittings from screwing down all the way. High speed Yates on the Black Ice (Top Rad), 4 88CFM scyths all intake on the side frame. All rads are exahust.














































For now...
Day 1 wiring there, no major cable management, and absolutly minimal sleeving done.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

How about some fan grills ?!
Those fan holes need correction and you could paint the interior of the acrylic case to hide the cabes.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jellis142

I love how the fan holes look, it's getting boring to see perfectly round holes


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14768707*
> thanks!!
> 
> finally got the leak testing done (im over waiting 12+ hours)
> 
> heres an updated pic
> 
> few tiny bubbles left but that'll work its way out.


I spy bubbles


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> How about some fan grills ?!
> Those fan holes need correction and you could paint the interior of the acrylic case to hide the cabes.


Contacting Smasher to figure out what grills I'm ordering already. Thinking I may just use some large (.75") sleeve in the front and rear of the Acrylic to hide all the outgoing cables.
Quote:


> I love how the fan holes look, it's getting boring to see perfectly round holes


Thanks! I lacked just about every tool needed to do this so everything was broken off by using a deep grove in the acrylic before just pushing and praying it would break clean. After that I used a 7/16" drill to open the center of the fan holes and used a sanding drum from there, All the angles on the holes are very smooth and polished, just looks rough to the eye. Personaly I love the look too.


----------



## polar

Here are some old school systems I used to run. First is a DFI X48 Second is a Epox 939.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polar;14779910*


Cute tubing.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

count me the duck innnnnnnnnnnn


----------



## DevilDriver

Rearranged things a bit. I like the ways its set up a little better now.


----------



## polar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;14781317*
> Cute tubing.


It was surgical tubing and a dream to work with,tad on the small side.

This was the Kit.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver;14781662*
> Rearranged things a bit. I like the ways its set up a little better now.


This actually interested me, someone still using a X6700 CPU. That's awesomeness. What clock speed do you have it at? I'm sure it can go higher than 3.3GHz.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;14784574*
> This actually interested me, someone still using a X6700 CPU. That's awesomeness. What clock speed do you have it at? I'm sure it can go higher than 3.3GHz.


I'm running stable at 3.4GHz, I can boot at 3.6GHz but cant give enough voltage to be stable because of temps it's a B3 so it runs super hot. I think a larger rad would help, but cant complain. Could only get 3.1GHz on air.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver;14784916*
> I'm running stable at 3.4GHz, I can boot at 3.6GHz but cant give enough voltage to be stable because of temps it's a B3 so it runs super hot. I think a larger rad would help, but cant complain. Could only get 3.1GHz on air.


Of course a 65nm extreme edition CPU can't really go that far without getting too hot. Oh-well.








Unless liquid nitro comes into play.


----------



## Boyboyd

I have a 130nm extreme edition P4. That gets hot.

Kind-of a stress-test for watercooling.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14785164*
> I have a 130nm extreme edition P4. That gets hot.
> 
> Kind-of a stress-test for watercooling.


2.5GHz would be considered "extreme overclocking" for a Pentium 4 Extreme Edition.







Luckily, the oldest CPU I got in my possession is a Intel Pentium 4 HT @ 3.06GHz (90nm chip)


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14773318*
> is this rad any good???????????
> 
> looks interesting
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13906/ex-rad-274/Watercool_HTF4_Triple_140mm_LT_Heat_Transformer_Series_Radiator_-_White_23201.html#blank


Yeah, very good ! Stay tuned for my next review update with rads for 140mm fans - 22 rads already included atm since my last update !

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/size-matters-radis-fuer-140mm-luefter-update-22-08-11-nun-22-modelle-im-test-669248.html

Next Update with HTF4, Aquacomputer AMS and Black Ice GTX 140,280,420 and 560 !









It´s in german, but you can check the result charts.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14768707*
> thanks!!
> 
> finally got the leak testing done (im over waiting 12+ hours)
> 
> heres an updated pic
> 
> few tiny bubbles left but that'll work its way out.


Post pics of the bottom part of your case







interested to see what it looks like with that mod. Need to do that myself. What tools you use?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Post pics of the bottom part of your case







interested to see what it looks like with that mod. Need to do that myself. What tools you use?


yeah no prob, i used some tinsnips and a dremel

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post13997101


----------



## lowfat

Added a bit of UV lighting. First time I've used lighting in probably a good 8 years. Think I'll have to grab another LED bar for the right hand side. I do like how there is zero glare and leakage. Shame that there is almost zero UV in my setup though.


----------



## psychrage

Just wanted to update my "membership"









Previous setup was post 1573.

Now moving on to my Fractal Designs Arc Midi. Not QUITE finished but will be soon. I just need a few 45Âº or 60Âº rotaries, and a shorter res tube. The pump will be under the res in a couple of weeks.


----------



## 1d10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1d10t;12599177*
> can i join he club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's my picture...


lil' update to my cooling system...


well..not much...but least i get rid of that ridiculous plastic barb


----------



## mars-bar-man

Ugh, WCUK cocked up my order, stuff missing and parts damaged, was hoping to have my new WC build completed today :/


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mars-bar-man;14797121*
> Ugh, WCUK cocked up my order, stuff missing and parts damaged, was hoping to have my new WC build completed today :/


that sucks man.

i hate it when it happens to me, the broken parts dont bother me as much cause the postal service in canada is god awful and i usually end up getting a new part from the company and my money back from canada post lol.

The missing parts simply piss me off, how hard can it be to put an order together??

It has happened to me that i get the rest of my stuff the next day cause the order needed 2 boxes or something.


----------



## mars-bar-man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14797254*
> that sucks man.
> 
> i hate it when it happens to me, the broken parts dont bother me as much cause the postal service in canada is god awful and i usually end up getting a new part from the company and my money back from canada post lol.
> 
> The missing parts simply piss me off, how hard can it be to put an order together??
> 
> It has happened to me that i get the rest of my stuff the next day cause the order needed 2 boxes or something.


Yeah, tubing has got kinks in it, so it's rendered most of it useless, I'm missing 2 barbs, which I need to finish the build and my EK D5 top is missing the o-ring :/


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mars-bar-man;14797312*
> Yeah, tubing has got kinks in it, so it's rendered most of it useless, I'm missing 2 barbs, which I need to finish the build and my EK D5 top is missing the o-ring :/


the tubing you might be able to salvage... you can heat it up a bit with a hair dryer to try and mold it back. or if there arent too many kinks you could try and make your tube cuts there.

As for the barbs, if you didnt live in the UK id send out a couple of them to you for free


----------



## mars-bar-man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14797362*
> the tubing you might be able to salvage... you can heat it up a bit with a hair dryer to try and mold it back. or if there arent too many kinks you could try and make your tube cuts there.
> 
> As for the barbs, if you didnt live in the UK id send out a couple of them to you for free


Yeah, thinking about it I probably could, although I'm not a fan of the tubing colour I chose, meant to be black, looks a bit purple to me, I'll just get some red instead









And cheers for the offer! i've emailed them, so now to wait and see what they see.


----------



## kin0kin

I was looking for this thread but somehow I couldn't find it and created a thread for my build. Here's my submission:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1107171-corsair-800d-finally-completed-after-months.html
Quote:


> Alright, all my parts came in today and I changed out a few parts, here's the final rig for now:
> 
> I love to keep the front clean. I'm planning to get a Lamptron FC-8 and reverse mount it inside of the casing to lower all the fan speed down to a dead silent level
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dell 2007FP / Dell U3011 / Dell 2007FP
> 1200 x 1600 / 2560 x 1600 / 1200 x 1600
> 4960 x 1600
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trusty Saitek Eclipse 2, recently painted matte black. 2 years old, and still working as good as new. By far the best non mechanical keyboard I've ever owned, and I've owned a lot of keyboards. There's an MX5500 inside of my drawer right below the Saitek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Logitech G500, got it on sale. Looking to replace my mousepad, probably will get a Steelseries S&S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's still air in the res as I just flushed the system and these are brand new water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Angle is very important for me. Keeping the bottom tube straight and the top tube naturally angled isn't easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5.1ghz 12 hour prime stable. CPU-Z is reading 1.5v Vcore but it's really 1.480 measured with my Mastercraft multimeter. Multimeter is about as accurate as most fluke DMM. I pulled 2 rams out and ran the rams at stock just to make sure I could pass prime. I've put back the other 2 pieces of 4gb and am now running 16gb @ 1.50v 1600mhz. Will prime this again tonight. For some reason I cannot run the ram at 1866mhz while many were able to oc this at 9 9 9 2x 2000mhz 1.5v.
> 
> http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/227/fin...2hourstable.jpg


----------



## mironccr345

^ I like it! A very clean look. Nice job!


----------



## jamaican voodoo

here my new and improve wooden case









GTX 570's : XSPC Rasa universal blocks
CPU : EK Supreme 1.rev with HF green top 
Rads : XSPC RS 360, 2x 240
fittings : 10 XSPC 1/2-3/4 compression
2x bitspower triple rotary 90c
2x 90c fitting
5x enzotech 45c bard fittings
home depot clear vinyl tubing 1/2-3/4




































yep that it my creation.


----------



## jdangond

here's my rig...would like to be added.


----------



## Agueybana_II

jdangond what GPU cooler is that PC looks super clean


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jdangond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II;14802768*
> jdangond what GPU cooler is that PC looks super clean


Its the 580 full cover from koolance (works with the 570)


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Front Bay Mod: made a aluminium plate with an intake fan simillar to the bottom one and painted the Noctuas black.
Enjoy


----------



## andygoyap

Finally got it watered:


----------



## Ceadderman

:wth:I'm sorry, but as nice as that looks it cannot be good to wrap your GPU power cabling around your 24pin.









The rest looks awesome but for JiC would chance the cable layout.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## andygoyap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14805188*
> :wth:I'm sorry, but as nice as that looks it cannot be good to wrap your GPU power cabling around your 24pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest looks awesome but for JiC would chance the cable layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


??? i didn't wrap my gpu cable with the 24 pin lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh okay it looked like your GPU power wrapped the 24pin harness.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## xTristinx

A Swifttech set up .







inside my NZXT Phantom.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14805242*
> Oh okay it looked like your GPU power wrapped the 24pin harness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Why would that be bad though anyway? I can't really think of a reason myself.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap;14805145*
> Finally got it watered:


That is nice.
System specs?


----------



## wermad

Got a decent shot for once


----------



## jellis142

I'm jealous of all these uber-sexy water-cooled rigs. Mine looks like a bare skeleton







Andy, I want your setup, but in all white!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14805188*
> :wth:I'm sorry, but as nice as that looks it cannot be good to wrap your GPU power cabling around your 24pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest looks awesome but for JiC would chance the cable layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14805824*
> Why would that be bad though anyway? I can't really think of a reason myself.


even if he had done it, there would have been absolutely nothing wrong with that. the only situation I can think of that MAY cause problems is if your wrapped an old PATA ribbon cable with your power cables. but beyond that, there is very little risk in intermingling cables.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap;14805213*


I think that looks great. In this example, different is very good.


----------



## Rocket Dog

Mine, Specs in SIG.

Taken with my Sony Ericsson Xperia X10 so excuse the picture quality.
































































Could really do with stripping her down and giving her a good clean, Maybe change the fans for some GT's and a new CPU block as well as getting them 470's under water as well.


----------



## AoHxBram

Switched from a Corsair 600t to a Antec Darfleet DF-85. was a bit of a sqeeuze to get the 280 to fit. but it is in now.

Loop as it is now : Res+pump -> Phobya Gchanger 280 -> EK 6970v2 -> Black ice GTS 240 -> Supreme HF nickel (2600K) -> res+pump.








lot more space then the 600t to work on hardware or expand.


----------



## Necrodox

I'm aware of the kink in the tube that is going INTO my graphics card, that is because I ended up moving the card up one slot after measuring the length of the tube for a slot below the current one.

I'm not satisified with the cluster of tubes towards the left lol, does anyone have a suggestion on how I can clean up my loop with this type of setup?

480 radiator at the top and a 360 radiator at the back.

This build isn't 100% yet and I want to make it perfect! I also wanted to ask you guys, would a 90 degree rotary kill flow at the end of my graphics card? I would like to install it on the "OUT" port on my Koolance GTX 580 waterblock, this is the tube that goes back into the reservoir so I thought flow really wouldn't matter much at this point.

I was also considering mounting the pump directly UNDER the reservoir to get rid of some of the tubing.

Also, what do you guys think of the tubing? Minus the heatshrinked parts (I got lazy cause it's such a pain to install the sleeving UNDER the compression fitting). Should I sleeve it again or leave it without sleeve?

What do you guys think? I'd really appreciate some feedback on how to clean it up!


----------



## Bouf0010

the pump under the res is a great idea. what you could do as well is flip the res upside down and do your return at the top. So your loop would be res-pump-gpu-360rad-cpu-480rad-res

or to really clean it up, res-pump-gpu-360rad-480rad-cpu-res

and id go without sleeving, but thats just my preference.


----------



## Agueybana_II

andygoyap are those EK nickel GPU block on a 580 with EVGA covers? Didn't knew they were compatible.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14807603*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm aware of the kink in the tube that is going INTO my graphics card, that is because I ended up moving the card up one slot after measuring the length of the tube for a slot below the current one.
> 
> I'm not satisified with the cluster of tubes towards the left lol, does anyone have a suggestion on how I can clean up my loop with this type of setup?
> 
> 480 radiator at the top and a 360 radiator at the back.
> 
> This build isn't 100% yet and I want to make it perfect! I also wanted to ask you guys, would a 90 degree rotary kill flow at the end of my graphics card? I would like to install it on the "OUT" port on my Koolance GTX 580 waterblock, this is the tube that goes back into the reservoir so I thought flow really wouldn't matter much at this point.
> 
> I was also considering mounting the pump directly UNDER the reservoir to get rid of some of the tubing.
> 
> Also, what do you guys think of the tubing? Minus the heatshrinked parts (I got lazy cause it's such a pain to install the sleeving UNDER the compression fitting). Should I sleeve it again or leave it without sleeve?
> 
> What do you guys think? I'd really appreciate some feedback on how to clean it up!


Yes the 90º cuts some flow, its not important since its on the outlet to the res.










The sleeving looks good, pic is not clear.


----------



## Balsagna

Here is an update of mine. Hope you all enjoy it







. Sorry for the bad position of the shots and the quality... just got a new camera and I don't have a tripod as of yet.


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14807698*
> the pump under the res is a great idea. what you could do as well is flip the res upside down and do your return at the top. So your loop would be res-pump-gpu-360rad-cpu-480rad-res
> 
> or to really clean it up, res-pump-gpu-360rad-480rad-cpu-res
> 
> and id go without sleeving, but thats just my preference.


Does loop order really play a strong role in temperatures, obviously it needs to be reservoir > pump, I've been told that going pump > GPU/CPU will leave me with worse temps due to the heat of the pump. Personally I think that the temps will eventually hit an equilibrium, leaving loop order not as important as it is portrayed to be. Thoughts?


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14807942*
> Yes the 90º cuts some flow, its not important since its on the outlet to the res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sleeving looks good, pic is not clear.


Yeah sorry I kind of took it last minute before I went to work, I'll post a better one when I get home.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14808314*
> Does loop order really play a strong role in temperatures, obviously it needs to be reservoir > pump, I've been told that going pump > GPU/CPU will leave me with worse temps due to the heat of the pump. Personally I think that the temps will eventually hit an equilibrium, leaving loop order not as important as it is portrayed to be. Thoughts?


ive always gone with loop order doesnt matter (except res -> pump), it will all equal out at one point. Ive tried different loop orders and it makes a slight difference when you first start putting the system under load, but after 30 mins or so it always came out the same, +/- a degree here and there.

I would try the most convenient/best looking loop first and go from there


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14805824*
> Why would that be bad though anyway? I can't really think of a reason myself.


It can create "noise" in the system. It's one reason companies like Seasonic put ferrite rings on their GPU cables.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14808393*
> ive always gone with loop order doesnt matter (except res -> pump), it will all equal out at one point. Ive tried different loop orders and it makes a slight difference when you first start putting the system under load, but after 30 mins or so it always came out the same, +/- a degree here and there.
> 
> I would try the most convenient/best looking loop first and go from there


Gottcha', I really hate the cluster I've made, I'll definitely clean it up sometime this week and post up the results.

Thanks for the feedback man.


----------



## andygoyap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II;14807760*
> andygoyap are those EK nickel GPU block on a 580 with EVGA covers? Didn't knew they were compatible.


Yep, EK-FC580 GTX+ for Nvidia GTX 580 Reference Design - Nickel/Acetal


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bouf0010

finally ordered a few more parts for my rig!! getting it on tuesday, so pumped









EK-FC580 ASUS DCII Design GTX580 - Plexi EN (EK-FC580 DCII EN)

XSPC RX480 (RX480)


----------



## Necrodox

Alright I updated my loop but I seem to be having some trouble with the top of it, it looks like it's going to explode at the top haha, any ideas?


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14823754*
> Alright I updated my loop but I seem to be having some trouble with the top of it, it looks like it's going to explode at the top haha, any ideas?


It'll clear soon enough, don't stress
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap;14810714*
> Yep, EK-FC580 GTX+ for Nvidia GTX 580 Reference Design - Nickel/Acetal


Is that 3/8" tube?

If its 1/2" I'm getting some cause their fantastic bend radius


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm pretty sure that's 1/2inch.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Freakn

Hmm, looks a tad small but what brand you thinking?


----------



## trippinonprozac

not done yet but getting there


----------



## dhruvdas2000

Here is mine:

Thanks for looking.


----------



## dhruvdas2000

This thread has very nice HD pictures by people...awesome job by everyone!
I didn't know how to insert images like that except like an attachment which I did...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dhruvdas2000;14824793*
> Here is mine:
> 
> Thanks for looking.


holy fittings!! so clean, i love the straight lines and the fittings out of that rad, looks like crab legs lol


----------



## dhruvdas2000

Thanks!...sorry about the low quality pictures taken by my crappy digital camera..


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dhruvdas2000;14824903*
> Thanks!...sorry about the low quality pictures taken by my crappy digital camera..


lol still nice pics, no worries. If you want to link your photos instead of attaching them, you can use sites such as imageshack to upload your photos and use the links in the forums


----------



## Ceadderman

I use photobucket. Less offending popups.


















I replaced that tube btw. The new one is pristine white.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14825900*
> I use photobucket. Less offending popups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced that tube btw. The new one is pristine white.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Zebra tube:thumb:
by the way ceadder, you know at the rate your going, your hardware will be outdated before your rigs done, then you'll have to get new blocks and start over again


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14826144*
> Zebra tube:thumb:
> by the way ceadder, you know at the rate your going, your hardware will be outdated before your rigs done, then you'll have to get new blocks and start over again


Yup. But at least once it's together I'll be able to upgrade to Crosshair XVI Formula without much issue.







hehe

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14826719*
> Yup. But at least once it's together I'll be able to upgrade to Crosshair XVI Formula without much issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Time to put it into overdrive mate


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14826719*
> Yup. But at least once it's together I'll be able to upgrade to Crosshair XVI Formula without much issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


by the time the crosshair XVI formulas out, youll have a in home robot to build your PC for you:thumb:


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Yep, never seen a build take so long.
When are you gonna glamor us with some pics?


----------



## jellis142

Pff! I plan on water-cooling everything in my sig, regardless of it's age. And I will enjoy every minute of it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14826904*
> Yep, never seen a build take so long.
> When are you gonna glamor us with some pics?


Well I have some upcoming work over the next few weeks so hopefully soon. Sitting on PPCs' right now putting the rest in my cart. But they're out of stock on my pump unless I go the 2.2 route.









I'd go with the DD pump but it doesn't come with the mounting kit.









Oh well time to toddle off to bed. Gonna be up at the crack and that's not too far away.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Gawdz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed;11454661*
> Update... New block, new "tubing", new res, added a pump, new pump top, new TMI...


I call this... Tron


----------



## sate200

My rig!!!


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;14828318*
> My rig!!!
> *snip*


Those are some bloody expensive yet sexy fans.


----------



## KaRLiToS

wow nice rig sate200, I like the parallel radiators, you don't see that often


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;14828318*
> My rig!!!
> 
> _**snippenzie**_


Holy nuck an futz!!!


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;14828318*
> My rig!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Excuse me, do you have a radiator? [IMG alt="specool.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/specool.gif Awesome build


----------



## Ceadderman

That many radiators and fans, EVERYTHING deserves to be water cooled.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Castle02

Nice build sate200!! I've never seen parallel rads before


----------



## bl1nk

You don't see it because it usually doesn't work too well. No offense sate, still a good looking build.


----------



## Bouf0010

question for experienced watercoolers...

would one RX480 cool my sig rig sufficiently or should i use the RS360 that i already have too??


----------



## kamikaze_

He made my rig reduced to a little betch. Damn nice, sate200.


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14836411*
> question for experienced watercoolers...
> 
> would one RX480 cool my sig rig sufficiently or should i use the RS360 that i already have too??


I'd say a single RX480 would be plent with half decent fans attached. My rig can be effectivly cooled with a single RX360 with 55mm TK-122s and a single BI 360 running passive. 1.46vcore x4 maxes at 21C over ambient when folding and the 6970 is at 11C over ambient folding.

Go for it.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;14828318*
> My rig!!!


jizzd in my pants. I could get sucked into those fans just by looking at them. Marvelous job good fellow!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;14828318*
> My rig!!!
> *snip*


Impressive rig mate







. How's the sandwich rad setup? Btw, go the user cp, on the left click on "edit system" and add your systems specs. This will auto populate in your posts.


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14791954*


I like this, I think it is the perfect amount of lighting


----------



## Necrodox

Very nice pictures guys, loving all the eye candy. I'll have some for you guys when I get the last cold cathode that I'm expecting!

For now though, I'm stressing about this reservoir.

























I have two openings at the top, I have a temporary fill port that extends to the side of the case so all I need to do is open it up and fill. I also have another opening at the top.

The opening at the very top and middle center of the reservoir is OPEN, NOT plugged.

The fillport extension is plugged, sealed!

I had them both sealed but I noticed that bubbles still lurked inside the reservoir and thought if I had them both sealed, how the hell do the bubbles get out? I thought it would get better but it looks like it's getting worse? The anti-cyclone mechanism is at the TOP since I flipped the reservoir.

What do you guys think? Sorry I'm just stressing lol, it's a brand new $3000 computer that I put a lot of effort into and I just want to make sure I work out any discrepancies.


----------



## wermad

^^^Fill your res up with more water and that should quell most of the bubbles.


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14838999*
> ^^^Fill your res up with more water and that should quell most of the bubbles.


After I fill it up should I close both ports or should I leave one of them open?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14839689*
> After I fill it up should I close both ports or should I leave one of them open?


Close them. If your system shuts down the back pressure will force the water out the openings causing a spill. Once you have gotten most of the air out let it run. The last remaining bit of air will slow make its way out. Then, refill the res until its topped off.


----------



## Necrodox

It'll make it out even with both plugs sealed? I was under the impression that it would stay stuck in the loop unless I opened up the ports to allow the air out. 

Also in the future if I fill the loop should I open both ports or should I only do it with one port open? When I do it with one port open I always need to fuss with the tubing and what not because the water won't go down because of the trapped air inside (I'm assuming), is there a method to easing this process?


----------



## Bouf0010

its not necessarily a matter of the bubbles getting "out" rather than the liquid settling back down. The space for the air is already there, its not like your loop is carbonated







hmmm i wonder if redbull would make things go faster??

EDIT** do you still have that straw looking thing in the res on your return?


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14838875*
> Very nice pictures guys, loving all the eye candy. I'll have some for you guys when I get the last cold cathode that I'm expecting!
> 
> For now though, I'm stressing about this reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


on my first loop i didnt realize i had to flush the rad before use, and i got like a foamy bubbles all through loop, bit different to yours, but did you flush the rad?


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14839751*
> its not necessarily a matter of the bubbles getting "out" rather than the liquid settling back down. The space for the air is already there, its not like your loop is carbonated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmmm i wonder if redbull would make things go faster??
> 
> EDIT** do you still have that straw looking thing in the res on your return?


Straw looking thing? Sorry I'm not entirely sure what you're referring to, mind elaborating?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14839803*
> Straw looking thing? Sorry I'm not entirely sure what you're referring to, mind elaborating?


does your res have this ->


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14839840*
> does your res have this ->


Oh, no my reservoir doesn't have that.

I have an IandH reservoir, I simply have some sort of slotted anti-cyclone mechanism located at one end of the reservoir.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer;14838215*
> I like this, I think it is the perfect amount of lighting


I think I need one more LED bar on the right side of the window. There is a dead spot that kind of bothers me.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14839897*
> Oh, no my reservoir doesn't have that.
> 
> I have an IandH reservoir, I simply have some sort of slotted anti-cyclone mechanism located at one end of the reservoir.


You have your res inlet on top, right?

You're going to get those bubbles without that inlet extension tube. As the water falls from the inlet, it is pushing air down into res water. If you had an extension tube, the incoming water would mix with the res water directly, and no new bubbles would be formed.

I took a quick look at Performance PCs, and it doesn't look like your res has an extension tube available. If you want to use that res, you'll probably have to flip it over and have the inlet on the bottom (as originally intended).


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14839897*
> Oh, no my reservoir doesn't have that.
> 
> I have an IandH reservoir, I simply have some sort of slotted anti-cyclone mechanism located at one end of the reservoir.


What type of liquid are you using?

Have you tried filling the res up to the top?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14839727*
> It'll make it out even with both plugs sealed? I was under the impression that it would stay stuck in the loop unless I opened up the ports to allow the air out.
> 
> Also in the future if I fill the loop should I open both ports or should I only do it with one port open? When I do it with one port open I always need to fuss with the tubing and what not because the water won't go down because of the trapped air inside (I'm assuming), is there a method to easing this process?


Only if you leave a port open, doesn't matter how you have it plumbed. Most loops have enough pressure to surge backwards if the pump stops. Just fill up your reservoir to the same level of the reservoir inlet. This will help stop the fizzle of bubbles. Plug your ports and wait; you can rock the case or stop-start the pump to help purge out the majority of the air. Once the loop has settled down and you've topped off the res again to the same level as the reservoir inlet, close/plug it up. The last bit of air will make is way to the res (again you can help get the air out by rocking the case or stop-starting the pump). Give it a few days and keep an eye on it to top it off again to the same level as the reservoir inlet. Mine took about 1-2 weeks for the last bit of air to make its way out (I didn't rock it or surged the pump). Most of the large air bubbles/pockets will cause a noise in the loop (don't worry) but once these large bubbles/pockets are bled, its just the last bit of air that needs to make its way. The only time one can leave the reservoir open even with the pump stopped is if you have a very big reservoir (more than the liquid circulating) or a tall arse res (again more than the liquid capacity). The back surge won't create a spout or anything like that







. I've tried large tube reservoirs (koolance 360mm body tube res & FrozenQ Helix fusion res), bay res (xspc ddc res and x20-750 pump/res), and now my micro res and its pretty much the same thing in terms of bleeding the air for the exception that the larger reservoirs need more liquid (obviously).

-wermad


----------



## FractalFragger

Name: Fractal Fragger


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FractalFragger;14844979*
> Name: Fractal Fragger


Lulz, just for the GPU? I understand GTX 295's get hot on stock coolers, it just seems unconventional that ONLY the GPU would get custom water cooling thrown at it. AMD Phenom 9850's are not Phenom II's, by the way.







Just a friendly tip.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FractalFragger;14844979*
> Name: Fractal Fragger


I haven't seen that big of a colossal wiring train wreck in years, makes my eyes hurt


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14845463*
> I haven't seen that big of a colossal wiring train wreck in years, makes my eyes hurt


+1









It burns! :/


----------



## jayc024




----------



## Kortwa

Really clean build in that 800D. White tubing with blue lighting?


----------



## lowfat

Also curious to know what tubing and lighting you were using. Must be UV lighting as blue would tend to saturate the entire interior w/ blue light.


----------



## jcharlesr75

Does my H80 count? lol


----------



## jayc024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kortwa;14845893*
> Really clean build in that 800D. White tubing with blue lighting?


I am using Feser Blue UV 1/2" ID tubing with Feser One cooling fluid UV clear. The lights in the case all UV with the blue LED's on the cpu and gpu blocks.


----------



## iLLGT3

Where'd you get the UV lights from?


----------



## morencyam

@jayc024 - I'm normally not a fan of blue themed builds, but that is GORGEOUS! The lighting is just the right intensity. Now just switch out the power and hdd led on the front for that extra little finishing touch. I switched mine out with orange leds and it just pulls everything together. The color in the picture is a little off, everything matches perfectly IRL, but you get the idea. Fairly easy mod too if you can solder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jayc024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14846106*
> Where'd you get the UV lights from?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16800888040

I have 3 of these UV cold cathodes in my rig
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;14846109*
> @jayc024 - I'm normally not a fan of blue themed builds, but that is GORGEOUS! The lighting is just the right intensity. Now just switch out the power and hdd led on the front for that extra little finishing touch. I switched mine out with orange leds and it just pulls everything together. The color in the picture is a little off, everything matches perfectly IRL, but you get the idea. Fairly easy mod too if you can solder


Wow that looks great I should definitely look into that. Is there a tutorial somewhere of how this is done?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14838875*
> Very nice pictures guys, loving all the eye candy. I'll have some for you guys when I get the last cold cathode that I'm expecting!
> 
> For now though, I'm stressing about this reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have two openings at the top, I have a temporary fill port that extends to the side of the case so all I need to do is open it up and fill. I also have another opening at the top.
> 
> The opening at the very top and middle center of the reservoir is OPEN, NOT plugged.
> 
> The fillport extension is plugged, sealed!
> 
> I had them both sealed but I noticed that bubbles still lurked inside the reservoir and thought if I had them both sealed, how the hell do the bubbles get out? I thought it would get better but it looks like it's getting worse? The anti-cyclone mechanism is at the TOP since I flipped the reservoir.
> 
> What do you guys think? Sorry I'm just stressing lol, it's a brand new $3000 computer that I put a lot of effort into and I just want to make sure I work out any discrepancies.


hey man, that is absolutely nothing to worry about. it is just because you have a top return on your res. mine does that too if I don't have the res filled up past the return.

if you add water until the return is below the res water level it will stop doing that. if you can't do that because of your setup then don't worry about it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcharlesr75;14845995*
> Does my H80 count? lol


Yes


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayc024;14846232*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16800888040
> 
> I have 3 of these UV cold cathodes in my rig


Cool thanks!!

And what fan controller are you using?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayc024;14846044*
> I am using Feser Blue UV 1/2" ID tubing with Feser One cooling fluid UV clear. The lights in the case all UV with the blue LED's on the cpu and gpu blocks.


What camera are you using? The light off the UV lamp doesn't look violet at all. Don't suppose you are shooting in raw?


----------



## jayc024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14846314*
> What camera are you using? The light off the UV lamp doesn't look violet at all. Don't suppose you are shooting in raw?


I believe it was a Cannon Powershot. I dont know the settings but the blue color does look abit darker in real life than in the pictures.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14846297*
> Cool thanks!!
> 
> And what fan controller are you using?


Zalman ZM-MFC1 Combo Fan Controller


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcharlesr75;14845995*
> Does my H80 count? lol


certainly, read the first post. you just have to post pics in this thread.


----------



## andygoyap




----------



## bundymania

The new flagship radiator from aqua computer !


----------



## Kahbrohn

Bundy,

You plan on testing that? I have always had it in my mind that paint-free fins should dissipate heat better.


----------



## bundymania

Yeah for sure - and the HTF4 + B.I. GTX420 too....next rad comparison update will come up soon

























http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/size-matters-radis-fuer-140mm-luefter-update-22-08-11-nun-22-modelle-im-test-669248.html


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14856940*
> Yeah for sure - and the HTF4 + B.I. GTX420 too....next rad comparison will come up soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/size-matters-radis-fuer-140mm-luefter-update-22-08-11-nun-22-modelle-im-test-669248.html


Nice. The one thing I noticed was that the new rad you posted has straight fins instead of the traditional "zig-zag" type fin layout. This also makes me wonder if you would have less air turbulence across the fins therefore allowing for better cooling.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I wouldn't call those straight fins, Kah ole buddy. They're more like pickle sliced fins. But I get what you're meaning. No fins dedicated per pass and from one side to the other with no connecting points to create unnatural obstacles.









He Bundy, is that a Pump and Rad setup or just a straight Rad setup? Looks as if there is a pump mounted there with all the In/Out identification ports.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RussianJ

Want to see how those AC rads perform. Very interested in picking up a pair of em if decently priced. The ability to hook a pair up without the need for fittings or tube would be quite nice.


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;14839765*
> on my first loop i didnt realize i had to flush the rad before use, and i got like a foamy bubbles all through loop, bit different to yours, but did you flush the rad?


Yeah I flushed them both.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;14841231*
> You have your res inlet on top, right?
> 
> You're going to get those bubbles without that inlet extension tube. As the water falls from the inlet, it is pushing air down into res water. If you had an extension tube, the incoming water would mix with the res water directly, and no new bubbles would be formed.
> 
> I took a quick look at Performance PCs, and it doesn't look like your res has an extension tube available. If you want to use that res, you'll probably have to flip it over and have the inlet on the bottom (as originally intended).


Gottcha', well it doesn't seem to be killing performance. It just looks like a cool little bubble effect, I guess it gives my build some character haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14844423*
> Only if you leave a port open, doesn't matter how you have it plumbed. Most loops have enough pressure to surge backwards if the pump stops. Just fill up your reservoir to the same level of the reservoir inlet. This will help stop the fizzle of bubbles. Plug your ports and wait; you can rock the case or stop-start the pump to help purge out the majority of the air. Once the loop has settled down and you've topped off the res again to the same level as the reservoir inlet, close/plug it up. The last bit of air will make is way to the res (again you can help get the air out by rocking the case or stop-starting the pump). Give it a few days and keep an eye on it to top it off again to the same level as the reservoir inlet. Mine took about 1-2 weeks for the last bit of air to make its way out (I didn't rock it or surged the pump). Most of the large air bubbles/pockets will cause a noise in the loop (don't worry) but once these large bubbles/pockets are bled, its just the last bit of air that needs to make its way. The only time one can leave the reservoir open even with the pump stopped is if you have a very big reservoir (more than the liquid circulating) or a tall arse res (again more than the liquid capacity). The back surge won't create a spout or anything like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've tried large tube reservoirs (koolance 360mm body tube res & FrozenQ Helix fusion res), bay res (xspc ddc res and x20-750 pump/res), and now my micro res and its pretty much the same thing in terms of bleeding the air for the exception that the larger reservoirs need more liquid (obviously).
> 
> -wermad


Gottcha', thanks a lot for the feedback man. I'll actually try and fill it up some more tonight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14841277*
> What type of liquid are you using?
> 
> Have you tried filling the res up to the top?


I'm simply using distilled water, I fill it up to the point where I feel it's safe and it won't overflow (very worried haha







).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14846250*
> hey man, that is absolutely nothing to worry about. it is just because you have a top return on your res. mine does that too if I don't have the res filled up past the return.
> 
> if you add water until the return is below the res water level it will stop doing that. if you can't do that because of your setup then don't worry about it.


Sounds good, thanks for the peace of mind haha.

If no harm is being done to my loop, no big deal.

On another note; those radiators look insane. Very interested in them, seems like they have A LOT of options.


----------



## andygoyap




----------



## mav2000

Very very nice andy...looking real good...I really like what you have done with the GPU sleeved cables.


----------



## quakermaas

Any more pics Andy, nice build, did you do it all yourself ?
Not keen on the pci-e power cables, i would have made them to size if i was going to all the trouble of individual sleeving.
You need to fill out your system specs.


----------



## andygoyap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas;14861356*
> Any more pics Andy, nice build, did you do it all yourself ?
> Not keen on the pci-e power cables, i would have made them to size if i was going to all the trouble of individual sleeving.
> You need to fill out your system specs.


most love what i did with the PCI-E, some don't







, can't please everyone. I will fill out my system specs later. Yes i did all by myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000;14861292*
> Very very nice andy...looking real good...I really like what you have done with the GPU sleeved cables.


thank you, was thinking of doing a knot like ropes on the cables lol.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Andy, what tubing are you using? It bends real nice!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## andygoyap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz;14862402*
> Andy, what tubing are you using? It bends real nice!


PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing -3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD


----------



## lvl8Hacker

One of my Cards


----------



## weeble

Build Log if interested : http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1112995-worklog-blue-thunda.html


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;14828318*
> My rig!!!


Awesome system mate but am I reading correctly that you have spent all that money on hardware and cooling and you are running a single 22" LG monitor?

That is like buying a Lamborghini and then taking the wheels off.


----------



## driftingforlife

Just rebuild my rig.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

@trippin... Until the next tax return comes and they buy 22" Dubs with performance tires. I would probably do what he did and not worry bout the monitor until the budget would allow a large TV/Monitor or Triple 30" flats in portrait. You always get the bling before you get the fringe.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14872581*
> @trippin... Until the next tax return comes and they buy 22" Dubs with performance tires. I would probably do what he did and not worry bout the monitor until the budget would allow a large TV/Monitor or Triple 30" flats in portrait. You always get the bling before you get the fringe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Got me a new tv just this week 52" to go along with the 23" 32" and 40" and in the middle is the 52"

sorry about the blury shots and the tape on the screens is in till I get a vesa holder for portrait mode and took the 32" out for a day to be able to move lol I think I finally went over board


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14872581*
> @trippin... Until the next tax return comes and they buy 22" Dubs with performance tires. I would probably do what he did and not worry bout the monitor until the budget would allow a large TV/Monitor or Triple 30" flats in portrait. You always get the bling before you get the fringe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


haha well said my friend!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *weeble*











Build Log if interested : http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ue-thunda.html


Perfect mid-range system imo. Great choice in parts and looks super clean.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;14873193*
> Perfect mid-range system imo. Great choice in parts and looks super clean.


Man if that system is only mid-range then my sig rig would be like low-high and if you can only get a mid-range system for the cost of those components then PC gaming _will_ be dead in less than two years.

I think most of us forget that OCN is _not_ an accurate representation of the PC world as a whole. I know I do.

That said, I like the setup. I really dig the black fan on the front bays. Keeping the color contained has made your rig very appealing IMO. Nice job!

You probably get some nice temps with an entire 360 dedicated to a 95W CPU!


----------



## weeble

Thanks guys


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeble;14874553*
> Thanks guys


A bit off topic but I just had to say that I love your choice of screen names. I don't know your age but I don't think they make those things anymore, so you have to be in your 30's at least.

I think the reason they stopped making them is because kids would often wing those things are hard as they could at one another. And if you ever took one apart, it's amazing how simplistic they are. Standard washer with plastic bone shell and clear plastic lined with a character descriptor. And they would leave some serious welts when you connected with them. More than a golfball does.

I long for those days. Used to pelt my brothers with them at every opportunity. I even did it when the parents were around. In fact that was more fun cause they would get all indignant and scream at the top of their heads, "MOOOOOOOOOOM! He hit me!" and I'd laugh knowing full well that I may get into trouble but the punishment would never fit the crime cause they never said what I hit them with. My fist or a Weeble.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lvl8Hacker;14871347*
> One of my Cards


Anyone know if it is possible to change the color of led lighting up the EVGA logo on Hydro Copper cards?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt;14874474*
> Man if that system is only mid-range then my sig rig would be like low-high and if you can only get a mid-range system for the cost of those components then PC gaming _will_ be dead in less than two years.
> 
> I think most of us forget that OCN is _not_ an accurate representation of the PC world as a whole. I know I do.
> 
> That said, I like the setup. I really dig the black fan on the front bays. Keeping the color contained has made your rig very appealing IMO. Nice job!
> 
> You probably get some nice temps with an entire 360 dedicated to a 95W CPU!


Bc 1155 isn't the "enthusiast" platform even tho it outperforms everything other than the 990x and no sli'd 570s/6950s and higher. When I think high end I think parts combos inaccessible to a majority of the enthusiast world for reasons of location or finances/ financial decisions.

Definitely agree, the color scheme is great. Subtle and "classy"


----------



## sate200

The problem friend, I do not like big screen, because I play FPS, smaller is better! the higher the smaller screen glare!


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14872707*
> Got me a new tv just this week 52" to go along with the 23" 32" and 40" and in the middle is the 52"
> 
> sorry about the blury shots and the tape on the screens is in till I get a vesa holder for portrait mode and took the 32" out for a day to be able to move lol I think I finally went over board


Might want to clean up that dump before posting picks.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru;14877173*
> Might want to clean up that dump before posting picks.


----------



## Tcassxx




----------



## t-ramp

That looks amazing.









Also, there's a system specs section in your User CP that would allow you to display your specs in a more readable format.









By the way, I received my new full-cover block for my 480 yesterday, as well as a RX360. The block is installed, and I was planning on getting everything set up last night, but after still not deciding on a loop design by 1AM, I gave up and went to bed. There's a plan running through my mind now that I think may work, so hopefully I'll get it assembled tonight.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

that sleeved tubing looks amazing, makes me want to do it in a build.

is the sleeve held in place by being inside the compression rings? how hard is that to do?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tcassxx;14877504*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Awesome build bro you did a lot of sleeve work there and looks very amazing


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14877676*
> updated
> 
> that sleeved tubing looks amazing, makes me want to do it in a build.


Me too







, white sleeve


----------



## Onions

i might do mine in red sleeve


----------



## Ceadderman

Hate to break it to ya guys, but MDPC-x only comes in Black for tubing.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tcassxx;14877504*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14878580*
> Hate to break it to ya guys, but MDPC-x only comes in Black for tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


there are other brands of sleeve.


----------



## Tcassxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;14877563*
> That looks amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, there's a system specs section in your User CP that would allow you to display your specs in a more readable format.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I received my new full-cover block for my 480 yesterday, as well as a RX360. The block is installed, and I was planning on getting everything set up last night, but after still not deciding on a loop design by 1AM, I gave up and went to bed. There's a plan running through my mind now that I think may work, so hopefully I'll get it assembled tonight.


Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14877676*
> updated
> 
> that sleeved tubing looks amazing, makes me want to do it in a build.
> 
> is the sleeve held in place by being inside the compression rings? how hard is that to do?


Thank you!

Yes. It is easy to do. You just need a little strength.

In this link, I show how I did.

>http://www.adrenaline.com.br/forum/hardwares-em-geral/256552-cablemod-sleeve-35.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;14877710*
> Awesome build bro you did a lot of sleeve work there and looks very amazing


Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14878400*
> Me too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , white sleeve


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;14878427*
> i might do mine in red sleeve


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14878580*
> Hate to break it to ya guys, but MDPC-x only comes in Black for tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE;14878811*


Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14878999*
> there are other brands of sleeve.


Yes you can use other brands.

Link sleeve for any measure of water tubing> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_32_917&products_id=29583

Thank you guys!!


----------



## wermad

I think FTW-PC has em,








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tcassxx;14880069*
> *snip*
> 
> Thank you guys!!


Btw, go the user cp and click on "edit system", fill out your system's specs and your specs will auto populate in your posts. This leaves your sig open for other things


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdangond;14801976*
> here's my rig...would like to be added.


Is that only a 240 and a 120 cooling both cpu and gpu?


----------



## Mongol

I'm about to nab a phobya 1080 for my knight of ni...not that I have a problem with my cooling now...I just want more cooling and more pump...and most likely more case...or a custom radbox.










...and new lighting...getting sick of these 'lazers'


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;14881730*
> I'm about to nab a phobya 1080 for my knight of ni...not that I have a problem with my cooling now...I just want more cooling and more pump...and most likely more case...or a custom radbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and new lighting...getting sick of these 'lazers'


Stick a 480 @ the top, move the 360 to the bottom, use a psu extender to push back the psu, and sell the 240


----------



## jdangond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz;14881706*
> Is that only a 240 and a 120 cooling both cpu and gpu?


no it's a 360 on top and yes a 120 on the side. cpu idles at around 36C and gpu around 33C ambient around 27C


----------



## Maximus4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tcassxx;14877504*


Very nice man ! Love it!


----------



## Oli4v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tcassxx;14877504*


Verry nice Cosmos S, one of the nicest around.

Too bad you connected your pump wrong, 'cause it's pumping straigt into the reservoir, so you might want to fix that to get the performance you deserve from your loop.


----------



## Necrodox

After some hardcore reservoir filling (managed to get it to the top), I got rid of the bubbles!

All gone!

All post up pictures tomorrow, can't wait to show everyone.









---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.889079,-74.201734


----------



## kamikaze_

The water cooling is still in progress, just got to get a second rad (XSPC RS360) and the second MCW80 GPU block. Compared to everyone else's rigs here, people would consider my water cooling to be on the budget side. Amazing stuff, everyone.







Here's what I got at the moment...



















Apogee XT Rev.2 block


----------



## Tcassxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14881543*
> I think FTW-PC has em,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, go the user cp and click on "edit system", fill out your system's specs and your specs will auto populate in your posts. This leaves your sig open for other things


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus4;14882152*
> Very nice man ! Love it!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oli4v;14886423*
> Verry nice Cosmos S, one of the nicest around.
> 
> Too bad you connected your pump wrong, 'cause it's pumping straigt into the reservoir, so you might want to fix that to get the performance you deserve from your loop.


This was my dilemma when I rode the loop. In the previous loop was like this:










But the system is working well. In an appropriate time I'll fix that.

Sorry for my bad english

Translation by Google


----------



## Alatar

Finally done with my loop







(the case still needs some work, like a ftwpc OCN fan grill among other things... )


----------



## Necrodox

Finally managed to get some pictures, hope you guys like it!


----------



## kamikaze_

Holy hell, resize those before uploading! You're going to fry someones dinosaur laptop with that. Nicely done though.









Better capture addon from my previous post... Again, it's not finished or all there yet.


----------



## Necrodox

I resized them, put in the new links but for some reason they're still big!


----------



## motokill36




----------



## RussianJ

My 50mb internetz just cried like a little girl loading this page. 10MP+ images kills bandwith so fast.

Edit: no wonder why, 4-11MB per pic, holy crap mate!


----------



## motokill36

wow FAB


----------



## Necrodox

Yeah I'm sorry about that guys, I'll take those pictures out and try and re-post them later. Maybe my uploader will decide to work then haha.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;14891290*
> Holy hell, resize those before uploading! You're going to fry someones dinosaur laptop with that. Nicely done though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better capture addon from my previous post... Again, it's not finished or all there yet.


You are cooling a 980x plus a GTX465 on just a single 2x120mm radiator?


----------



## CjGemini

@Necrodox what did you use to light the interior of your case like that?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini;14893865*
> @Necrodox what did you use to light the interior of your case like that?


I too want to know







. Beautiful setup he has there.


----------



## PB4UGO

looks like he used cathodes...better spread than leds.


----------



## Necrodox

I used white cold cathodes, I tried white LED strips but they are inferior to cold cathodes in terms of light spread. There are four cold cathodes in my case.

I'll take a picture of the placement of them all tomorrow for you guys.

Glad you guys like the build.









---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.889074,-74.201726


----------



## Levesque

The Black Monolith. Almost done.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levesque;14898062*
> The Black Monolith. Almost done.


Good God. . .

Go big or go home, eh?


----------



## Levesque

You know what they say. Gigantic computer case, big...









Our maid thaught it was a new ''wine cellar''. LOL!


----------



## Castle02

Lol nice!!


----------



## andygoyap

more:


----------



## shajack

okay,forget the not so great looking rig not finished yet(excuse)

the pic here shows that the pump is at the case's floor but before that,i tried to mount the pump against the wall and what i got was a heated cpu waterblock with no circulation at all. even the barb was hot

normal wc rules applied=> res-pump, stop the psu/pump after water in res drained, make sure every tubing is routed correctly etc...i think i saw that the pump(mcp655) can be mounted differently just wandering why mine cant. using bitspower top mod


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mybadomen

Not completely finished but here's my Water cooling so far.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shajack;14908637*
> *snip*
> 
> normal wc rules applied=> res-pump, *stop the psu/pump after water in res drained*, make sure every tubing is routed correctly etc...i think i saw that the pump(mcp655) can be mounted differently just wandering why mine cant. using bitspower top mod










You should be able to stop your pump and still drain your loop right? No amount of back pressure should stop gravity as far as I'm aware of.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Natashaful

Afew of mine i taken, Only built it last friday after adding another Rad and GPU into the loop.

























































































Leaving as is for the time being, I didn't like the 600T for watercooling it was very expensive to watercool, Deffo worth going for a good watercooling case.

Nat.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natashaful;14910953*
> Afew of mine i taken, Only built it last friday after adding another Rad and GPU into the loop.
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Leaving as is for the time being, I didn't like the 600T for watercooling it was very expensive to watercool, Deffo worth going for a good watercooling case.
> 
> Nat.


Very nice.









Also, my RX240 developed a leak around one of the G1/4" ports. I slapped some JB-Weld on it - ugly, but it seems to have worked. In any event, the loop is together. I'll plug everything in tonight and, if all goes well, have pictures up tomorrow.


----------



## Oli4v

Badumtss !


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## grishkathefool

I love your theme, especially the graphics, Natashaful. Did you do that line drawing on the case yourself?


----------



## Natashaful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grishkathefool;14915528*
> I love your theme, especially the graphics, Natashaful. Did you do that line drawing on the case yourself?


I could have, I thought about air brushing Starwars on with gold paint, They're decals for now, As i'm already bored of the case, Looking at getting something with a custom Red Candy pearl paint job and then spray hello kitty faces on it in White, I've run out of money now for afew months so stuck







with this for now.









Nat.


----------



## psychrage

Not 100% complete. But getting there.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natashaful;14915922*
> I could have, I thought about air brushing Starwars on with gold paint, They're decals for now, As i'm already bored of the case, Looking at getting something with a custom Red Candy pearl paint job and then spray hello kitty faces on it in White, I've run out of money now for afew months so stuck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with this for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nat.


I know the feeling! I was soooooo close to getting an acrylic sidepanel etched with a pony. Sticking with the nvidia claw for now. Changing the acrylic for solar grey though.


----------



## Bouf0010

finally got the 580 on water







ended up leaving the RS360 up top and mounting the RX480 out on the back of the case.


----------



## shajack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14910862*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to stop your pump and still drain your loop right? No amount of back pressure should stop gravity as far as I'm aware of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


yup,just switch off the psu n its off...well,no matter,feeling ok that the rig is up n runnning.
i had a cm690 interior painted white before but need to be extra creative to fit the two radiators i have but that kind of creativy eluded me
may be ill give the idea another try when i have enough comp fittings


----------



## num1son




----------



## Haze_hellivo

Impressive window design!
Some tribals etching or vinyls would look great.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kamikaze_

I personally like this better than the UV lights and green coolant.


















  
 You Tube


----------



## owikh84

3x GTX580 1.5GB












































LittleDevil in dark environment...


----------



## t-ramp

Holy smokes. That's *nice*.









The prior builds are excellent as well, guys.


----------



## Ken1649

Quote:



Originally Posted by *andygoyap*


Yep, EK-FC580 GTX+ for Nvidia GTX 580 Reference Design - Nickel/Acetal











Nice and clean


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84;14921579*
> 3x GTX580 1.5GB


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage;14916603*
> Not 100% complete. But getting there.


What kind of performance are you getting with your 6850's - have you run 3dmark 11 on your build - if so do you know the P-Score

Thanks in advance!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Castle02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84;14921579*
> 3x GTX580 1.5GB
> LittleDevil in dark environment...


Love the lit up look.


----------



## psychrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *12Cores*


What kind of performance are you getting with your 6850's - have you run 3dmark 11 on your build - if so do you know the P-Score

Thanks in advance!


P-Score is 6121...


----------



## freitz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jdangond*


no it's a 360 on top and yes a 120 on the side. cpu idles at around 36C and gpu around 33C ambient around 27C


Can you link how you have the pump to rad hook up, did you run it behind?


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:



Originally Posted by *psychrage*


P-Score is 6121...


Thanks for posting those numbers looking to get 2 6850's next year to replace my 5770's.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## jdangond

Quote:



Originally Posted by *freitz*


Can you link how you have the pump to rad hook up, did you run it behind?












As you can see had to cut out a part of the top 2 drive bays. I was never going to using them, but if I took out the water cooling out the bays should still be useable.


----------



## ohms

Here is my rig currently being built, it's 90% done.


----------



## t-ramp

Looks really good.









Where's the other radiator?


----------



## timma100

My Old rig, sorry for poor picture quality its the only one I have. Gave it to my neighbors, and they broke the rad







btw rad is behind my tv lol


----------



## t-ramp

That is a mess.









What hardware is/was in it?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

...words cannot describe...


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timma100;14935486*
> !snip!
> My Old rig, sorry for poor picture quality its the only one I have. Gave it to my neighbors, and they broke the rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw rad is behind my tv lol


woah a blast from the past... I spy IDE...lol, but seriously








cables are EVIL


----------



## Ceadderman

All I gotta say is...

No.Wonder.It.Was.Water.Cooled.com









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Tweak17emon




----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon;14935800*
> *snip*


got anymore pics? looks nice but its hard to see whats going on


----------



## Ceadderman

That looks awesome. Would look even better with some cable management.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## timma100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;14935518*
> That is a mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What hardware is/was in it?


Bought by my Dad when I was 14, Gateway GT5058 MediaCenter Edition
Athlon x2 3800+ @ 2ghz
Nvidia 6100 GPU Back when they soldered them to the mobo
250 GB Seagate IDE harddrive, capping out at a massive 45MB Read, 22MB Wr
2GB DDR 400 C8
100W PSU.
Total Cost, Bought from bestbuy, 1K USD

My Upgrades,
On top is a 500BG western Digital HDD with a bad bearing, making that P3 HSF mandetory to keep data from disepearing.
3 Gigs of G.Skill DDR400 C2.5
Nvidia 7600GT 512MB
PSU BFG 400W
Creative X-Fi Extreme Gamer Fata1ity with 128MB of X-RAM
Watercooling kit.... I dont remember, but it came with CPU, NB, and SB blocks and 10 feet of tubing. Had my 3800+ chilly at 22C under load. Couldnt OC due to locked FSB
And yes, it could play Crysis.......On low..........at 13FPS


----------



## ohms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;14935401*
> Looks really good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where's the other radiator?


I have to post up newer pictures since I did more work yesterday, but there is a koolance 360 rad on to the top since my M8 has an extended top and there is a Phobya 360 rad in the radiator/psu compartment on the top.


----------



## Tweak17emon

that case is HORRIBLE to do cable management in. Fat_Italian looked it over and gave me a few tips at MML10.










with 5 hard drives the cables get a bit messy and theres not much room to hide anything.


----------



## Mopiko Laila

mine..

My first wc setup...
My Gpu still no block yet for now...


2011-09-14 20.31.45 (Large) by MopikoLaila, on Flickr


2011-09-14 20.31.23 (Large) by MopikoLaila, on Flickr


2011-09-14 20.30.10 (Large) by MopikoLaila, on Flickr


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopiko Laila;14936818*
> mine..
> 
> My first wc setup...
> My Gpu still no block yet for now...
> 
> 
> 2011-09-14 20.31.45 (Large) by MopikoLaila, on Flickr


You can go universal gpu blocks on them. Contact some block manufacturers to see if they are going to make a fullcover block for the 6870x2.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;14938130*
> *snip*


nice block, who makes it?


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Looks like a Koolance block for an AMD 6970.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like a Koolance block but which card is it for Bundy. No fair just posting pics. Give some info bro.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14938818*
> Looks like a Koolance block but which card is it for Bundy. No fair just posting pics. Give some info bro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


He isn't allowed to post info unless asked because of OCN's TOS and his reviewer's contracts conflicting. That is partially why I stopped keeping track of his posts.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14939512*
> updated
> 
> He isn't allowed to post info unless asked because of OCN's TOS and his reviewer's contracts conflicting. That is partially why I stopped keeping track of his posts.


Yeah that's too bad. Cause he obviously has no stake in the products that he posts as he's product testing, but I see how that might be abused. Too bad though cause it would be nice not having to ask.









I might be buying a 5770 block from Aquatuning. Would rather have had an EK block, but since they no longer make them I've got to buy from AT and wait for the block to be made to get it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Bouf0010

Looking to get some new fans for my RX480.

Thinking between these 2 because they are on sale.

http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_88&products_id=1148

or

http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_89&products_id=350

what do you guys think?? im leaning towards the TFCs


----------



## bl1nk

The TFCs will _probably_ perform better, but IMO they look hideous not to mention they are going to eat up some serious real estate. I personally would get the Ap-15s. but then again I am a GT fanboy.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

all depends how much space you have. personally I don't like fans thicker than 25mm because they eat up too much space, space where I could put a shroud.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*


all depends how much space you have. personally I don't like fans thicker than 25mm because they eat up too much space, space where I could put a shroud.


Technically speaking the thicker the housing for your fan the less you'll need a shroud.









Problem is that most of these fans that are super thick, are real jet turbines in the dB department. Tribwerks are great fans from what I'm told as they are extremely thick and the fan is set away from the Radiator in Push.

Personally I'd rather run Yate Loon High Speed Silents on a solid controller where I can dial them back to a suitable dB level. But if I could find a set of YLs' in Tribwek bodies I would do it in a heartbeat.









Oh hai guys, DarkHollow is parting with his GTX 275s' and EK Waterblocks in Video section of Marketplace. The blocks are copper(no corrosion issue) and Black Acetal. So anyone who has one already and is considering SLi you might check it out. Or maybe you know someone who is and can point them in the right direction. They look really sharp with white plexi backing plates...










Which gives me an idea of what to do with my 5770 when I finally get it under water.









~Ceadder


----------



## jsigone

hope you never get static on that plexi so close to all those parts.....zap zap

but it does look good!!


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


The TFCs will _probably_ perform better, but IMO they look hideous not to mention they are going to eat up some serious real estate. I personally would get the Ap-15s. but then again I am a GT fanboy.


real estate isnt an issue at the moment since the RX480 is externaly mounted. Its a tough choice.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Looks like a Koolance block but which card is it for Bundy. No fair just posting pics. Give some info bro.









~Ceadder










The Block fits on 6950 & 6970 Cards in Ref. Design 1


----------



## Boyboyd

Getting a watercooled GPU was probably one of the smartest moves I ever made.


----------



## Freakn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


The Block fits on 6950 & 6970 Cards in Ref. Design 1



















Damn they look nice, info please Bundy


----------



## bundymania

ItÂ´s an older Set from mips-computer for a DFI Lanparty DK X38 S775 Board










Nickel plated - Bling Bling



























Who can name all 3 blocks ? :


----------



## sate200

NEW UPGRADES!!! AX1200, SLEEVING BLACK AND RED!!!


----------



## mad87645

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;14943728*
> NEW UPGRADES!!! AX1200, SLEEVING BLACK AND RED!!!


wow, sick build.

now just paint the psu red


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mad87645;14943778*
> wow, sick build.
> 
> now just paint the psu red


the power supply is combined with EK block and chipset UD7!!! THANKS FRIEND


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;14943728*
> NEW UPGRADES!!! AX1200, SLEEVING BLACK AND RED!!! [/IMG]


Another rad-sandwich. What kind of temps do you get? Mine weren't great when mine were in a sandwich.

Looks nice though.


----------



## mad87645

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;14943790*
> the power supply is combined with EK block and chipset UD7!!! THANKS FRIEND


still think it needs a red psu, or a red accented one


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14943800*
> Another rad-sandwich. What kind of temps do you get? Mine weren't great when mine were in a sandwich.
> 
> Looks nice though.


*use 2 radiators 2 VGA'S, I have a big gain, as my temp in IDLE are 34 ° C in full in games 42 ° C, are 2 x 6990 are very hot, I had a gain with more 1 radiator 11 º C! !*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## t-ramp

Pulled the leaking (and unnecessary) RX240. Much simpler now, and I can keep an eye on the entire loop as well. There's a noise issue or two I might have to deal with, though...























































*Parts List:*
Swiftech MCP355
XSPC reservoir top
Enzotech Sapphire
XSPC Razor GTX480
XSPC RX360

3x Koolance 3/8" barbs
4x XSPC 3/8" barbs
1x Koolance 3/8" 90° rotary barb

6x Koolance clamps

Koolance 3/8" x 1/2" blue tube

3x Yate Loon 120mm fans (blue LED) (1350rpm)
6x Cooler Master 120mm fans (1200rpm)
1x Rosewill 80mm fan


----------



## 8564dan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;14944913*
> Pulled the leaking (and unnecessary) RX240. Much simpler now, and I can keep an eye on the entire loop as well. There's a noise issue or two I might have to deal with, though...
> 
> *Parts List:*
> Swiftech MCP355
> XSPC reservoir top
> Enzotech Sapphire
> XSPC Razor GTX480
> XSPC RX360
> 
> 3x Koolance 3/8" barbs
> 4x XSPC 3/8" barbs
> 1x Koolance 3/8" 90° rotary barb
> 
> 6x Koolance clamps
> 
> Koolance 3/8" x 1/2" blue tube
> 
> 3x Yate Loon 120mm fans (blue LED) (1350rpm)
> 6x Cooler Master 120mm fans (1200rpm)
> 1x Rosewill 80mm fan


That looks awesome! I love that case you have made







.


----------



## Sin Cities Sin

Im relatively new to water cooling but here is my second build.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;14939824*
> Looking to get some new fans for my RX480.
> 
> Thinking between these 2 because they are on sale.
> 
> http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_88&products_id=1148
> 
> or
> 
> http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_89&products_id=350
> 
> what do you guys think?? im leaning towards the TFCs


I have both the TFC Medium speed and Gentle typhoons 1850, the TFC pushes alot more air with less noise and has higher static pressure. Go for the Triebwerk.


----------



## amang

Thanks to OCN Watercooling section, I learn a lot from here. So here goes my first WC system ever....


----------



## Ceadderman

If I were to Quad SLi that's how I would do Quad SLi.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amang;14945562*
> Thanks to OCN Watercooling section, I learn a lot from here. So here goes my first WC system ever....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> And we have a winner, the RIG OF THE YEAR!!!
> 
> Awesome build bro, a lot of money inside that case and very good work with the cable sleeve


----------



## Ceadderman

Methinks someone is chain yanking.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amang;14945562*
> Thanks to OCN Watercooling section, I learn a lot from here. So here goes my first WC system ever....


i thought a pop up or something came up on my monitor when i noticed the little anime figurine, then i realized its part of the pic lol


----------



## Haze_hellivo

That hardware deserves a bettercase.


----------



## Nexus6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amang;14945562*
> Thanks to OCN Watercooling section, I learn a lot from here. So here goes my first WC system ever....


How many rads are you using to cool your beastly rig???
I only see 1 480 rad, unless there is another rad hiding behind something.


----------



## amang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nexus6;14946216*
> How many rads are you using to cool your beastly rig???
> I only see 1 480 rad, unless there is another rad hiding behind something.


So far there's only one GTX480 radiator at the back and one XSPC RX120 in the middle. I am planning to re-use my old MCR320, I just can't think of a better way to install this rad.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX;14945797*
> i thought a pop up or something came up on my monitor when i noticed the little anime figurine, then i realized its part of the pic lol


Good pick up!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14946152*
> That hardware deserves a bettercase.


I totally agree with you. It looks so cramped inside.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nexus6;14946216*
> How many rads are you using to cool your beastly rig???
> I only see 1 480 rad, unless there is another rad hiding behind something.


There are two loops from what I can see. Green 1/2" is CPU/SLi dedicated. Blue loop is everything else. There is at least 1 120 in the 5.25 bay. I'm thinking there is an XSPC Res/Pump just above it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin Cities Sin;14945044*
> Im relatively new to water cooling but here is my second build.


to messy for my taste


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;14945172*
> I have both the TFC Medium speed and Gentle typhoons 1850, the TFC pushes allot more air with less noise and has higher static pressure. Go for the Triebwerk.


+1. TK-122s are teh sex. They far beat GT-15s in cooling when running both at one point. They do run a tad quieter as well. Nothing like pushing a box multiple feet across the floor just by raw air power.

For that price, I may just buy another set.


----------



## bundymania

Family Meeting


----------



## pcnoob1

bundy, where are your reviews?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnoob1*


bundy, where are your reviews?


I'd like to know aswell


----------



## owikh84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amang*


Thanks to OCN Watercooling section, I learn a lot from here. So here goes my first WC system ever....











1366 CPU + 4X GTX580 cooled by a 480 rad + 120 rad.
Performance -1


----------



## Agueybana_II

Like those Hydro Cooper 2, only if they were cheaper. I am getting one anyways.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *owikh84*


1366 CPU + 4X GTX580 cooled by a 480 rad + 120 rad.
Performance -1










Dude says he's gonna add more rad, not really helpful by being negative


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84;14952735*
> 1366 CPU + 4X GTX580 cooled by a 480 rad + 120 rad.
> Performance -1


480 cools CPU and SLi.

The 120 cools the Chipset and RAM.

Performance is quite adequate. Might need a little more Radiator for the CPU/GPU configuration but he needs more case to allow the mounting of another Radiator to bolster the 480.









But don't take my word, follow the loop there is 3/8"(Blue) line and 1/2"(Green) line. Notice how the blue Line and the Green line never actually meet? Adequate right?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## amang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14954214*
> 480 cools CPU and SLi.
> 
> The 120 cools the Chipset and RAM.
> 
> Performance is quite adequate. Might need a little more Radiator for the CPU/GPU configuration but he needs more case to allow the mounting of another Radiator to bolster the 480.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But don't take my word, follow the loop there is 3/8"(Blue) line and 1/2"(Green) line. Notice how the blue Line and the Green line never actually meet? Adequate right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Well, you're absolutely right on the money.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amang;14954405*
> Well, you're absolutely right on the money.










Thanks.

I'm starting to miss my Doms though. I'm seeing alot of really nice setups but I really like the clean look of your loops the more I look at them. Cable management could use some pizazz but this is the water cooling club and pic gallery. While CM is important it shouldn't concern us as much as having a clean loop(s) and setup. Yours looks awesome.









Although I do believe(due to my OCD) in keeping the line all one size. But as I said that's my OCD. If your system were here in front of me I'd have it apart in a matter of minutes swapping out fittings and hose.









Hey what can I say, I know my shortcomings and limitations.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## aerial

It also depends on fans, SR1 is very efficient radiator, push-pull fans configuraton, it can make really big difference. It probably isn't most quiet setup in the world.


----------



## Ihasfip

Waiting on GPU waterblock...

D


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcnoob1;14950820*
> bundy, where are your reviews?


online in 15+ forums worldwide !


----------



## Infernosaint

Hey guys, I've been thinking about getting another rad for my setup (in sig), I now have a Black Ice GTX 360, which I think might have been a bit of a mistake. I'm using 6 GT AP-15's in push pull, but I almost always have them running pretty low, with a fan controller. As such, I guess the GTX rad ain't exactly the most efficient rad for this setup.

I'm thinking of getting a 360 rad, for mounting on the back of my case. Which Rad would you suggest for the TFC Medium speed fans in push pull? I want to keep it close to quiet, so these fans seem very nice.


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infernosaint;14955072*
> Hey guys, I've been thinking about getting another rad for my setup (in sig), I now have a Black Ice GTX 360, which I think might have been a bit of a mistake. I'm using 6 GT AP-15's in push pull, but I almost always have them running pretty low, with a fan controller. As such, I guess the GTX rad ain't exactly the most efficient rad for this setup.
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a 360 rad, for mounting on the back of my case. Which Rad would you suggest for the TFC Medium speed fans in push pull? I want to keep it close to quiet, so these fans seem very nice.


XSPC rx360 can use Gentle Tyhoon AP-15 very low noise


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84;14952735*
> 1366 CPU + 4X GTX580 cooled by a 480 rad + 120 rad.
> Performance -1


dude, a 480 rad can handle that much heat and then some, there is nothing wrong with his setup. I would bet a 360 rad with good fans would be able to do it too.

people WAY overestimate how much rad space is needed. a typical single CPU/GPU loop will almost always be fine with a single 240mm rad


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14955531*
> updated
> 
> dude, a 480 rad can handle that much heat and then some, there is nothing wrong with his setup. I would bet a 360 rad with good fans would be able to do it too.
> 
> People way overestimate how much rad space is needed. A typical single cpu/gpu loop will almost always be fine with a single 240mm rad


+1


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas;14547176*
> Just updated my case, liquid cooling and lapped the CPU.
> CPU had a hump on it.
> (Sliverstone Raven II Evolution, Feser 360, Laing DDC, D-Tec Fuzion II)
> Had to mod the res, it was like a fountain and causing lots of air, which the pump pick-up was sucking into the loop.
> 
> Rad was a tight fit, but just made it


Done some work with the pump, brought is forward and up a bit to centre it with the floppy drive bay cover for the case, also wired up some blue LEDs








I will fit a piece of perspex behind the floppy drive bay cover in the near future.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## num1son

Anyone see a problem with this new configuration? I had to switch some things around after getting a rad bracket made.
















Thanks!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son;14957708*
> Anyone see a problem with this new configuration? I had to switch some things around after getting a rad bracket made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **snip**
> Thanks!


That looks really sharp and clean for a Mid. Very nice.









Still working on mine. Maybe in a couple weeks I'll have something worthwhile to post too.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

dude, a 480 rad can handle that much heat and then some, there is nothing wrong with his setup. I would bet a 360 rad with good fans would be able to do it too.

people WAY overestimate how much rad space is needed. a typical single CPU/GPU loop will almost always be fine with a single 240mm rad


Totally right. I'm sitting comfortably with my stuff cooled using a single 240mm rad. Processor OC'ed to 4GHZ too.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

it's definitely true that people overestimate the need for rad space. I feel like a tiny bit of a hypocrite saying that with my four rads totaling 8x120mm; but I just did that because I had space for them and wanted to.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


...but I just did that because I had space for them and wanted to.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quick qus, for my loop of 3 blocks and 2 480 RADS would it be worth moveing to 2 355s in a duel top from a single 655, I think it is but want to make sure.

Thanks


----------



## Greenback

I don't know about to much rad will have 7x120mm for a cpu loop but will be adding my gpu soon


----------



## 12Cores

Added 8gb of GSkill 1600 ram, new psu and another 5770
Finally at 4ghz stable:thumb:
Ready of the fall game season


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14960934*
> it's definitely true that people overestimate the need for rad space. I feel like a tiny bit of a hypocrite saying that with my four rads totaling 8x120mm; but I just did that because I had space for them and wanted to.


Overkill FTW


----------



## 808MP5

A little something I put together yesterday. I call it Hermit. Took my main sig rig components and moved it to a DD Torture Rack. Everything got moved over except the rads, pumps, res, hdds, and a few fittings.

Full water cooled setup. Single mcp350, koolance 401x2, 2x dd rad res, 2x swiftech 360 rads, 2x tfc shroud, 6x phobya fans, 2x koolance 460 blocks, 4x koolance ram-33 blocks, aquacompter Kyros HF, EK motherboard block, DD hdd block, primochill lrt tubes, and tons of BP fittings.

Went from tygo 3603 tubing to primochill. Primochill way better IMO.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *808MP5*


A little something I put together yesterday. I call it Hermit. Took my main sig rig components and moved it to a DD Torture Rack. Everything got moved over except the rads, pumps, res, hdds, and a few fittings.

Full water cooled setup. Single mcp350, koolance 401x2, 2x dd rad res, 2x swiftech 360 rads, 2x tfc shroud, 6x phobya fans, 2x koolance 460 blocks, 4x koolance ram-33 blocks, aquacompter Kyros HF, EK motherboard block, DD hdd block, primochill lrt tubes, and tons of BP fittings.

Went from tygo 3603 tubing to primochill. Primochill way better IMO.

*snip*


dude, that thing is epic. any more pics?

EDIT: is that sitting on top of a printer? i feel like it might be a little heavy to do that


----------



## 808MP5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;14970993*
> dude, that thing is epic. any more pics?


I'll upload a few later. That was a quick iPhone pic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;14970993*
> EDIT: is that sitting on top of a printer? i feel like it might be a little heavy to do that










yup sitting on my scanner/printer. Temp location for now. Preping my mm acc ext for my SB build.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *808MP5*


2x dd rad res,


I love the res setup


----------



## Ceadderman

That thing looks sick!









~Ceadder


----------



## mybadomen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *808MP5*


A little something I put together yesterday. I call it Hermit. Took my main sig rig components and moved it to a DD Torture Rack. Everything got moved over except the rads, pumps, res, hdds, and a few fittings.

Full water cooled setup. Single mcp350, koolance 401x2, 2x dd rad res, 2x swiftech 360 rads, 2x tfc shroud, 6x phobya fans, 2x koolance 460 blocks, 4x koolance ram-33 blocks, aquacompter Kyros HF, EK motherboard block, DD hdd block, primochill lrt tubes, and tons of BP fittings.

Went from tygo 3603 tubing to primochill. Primochill way better IMO.











Lol, I was complaining about having to buy 12 compression fittings.You must have a fortune in fittings alone! Sweet Rig though,Love it!


----------



## Segovax

Still waiting on a fan for the pump... that thing gets hot even at 20%.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Segovax;14973760*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting on a fan for the pump... that thing gets hot even at 20%.


Is that the mcp 35x? How hot is it running? Most of the heat from the pump should be transferred to the loop, though its should be a negligible amount.

Try this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_775&products_id=30830


----------



## Ceadderman

werm beat me to it. I was just gonna recommend that heatsink. Koolance makes a similar one as well.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## morencyam

i think it looks like he has that heatsink on there already, just without the fan


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;14974602*
> i think it looks like he has that heatsink on there already, just without the fan


Good find







.

Looks like a 60mm fan should fit fine under it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14974908*
> Good find
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Looks like a 60mm fan should fit fine under it


Meh just mount a 120mm directly opposite the pump and the heatsink should wick away the heat just fine and not have increase the dB in negative fashion. Having had two 60s' in my Corsair RAM cooler, I know exactly how loud those little hovercraft turbines can get. They can also introduce moar dust than anyone should have to deal with.









But if a 120 is aimed right at it blowing along the vanes of the heatsink that should keep things plenty cool and a bit quieter.









Oh also that fan shown is larger than 60mm. The pump is 60mm(or so) square after all. The fan shown is probably an 80 or 90mm.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14975112*
> Meh just mount a 120mm directly opposite the pump and the heatsink should wick away the heat just fine and not have increase the dB in negative fashion. Having had two 60s' in my Corsair RAM cooler, I know exactly how loud those little hovercraft turbines can get. They can also introduce moar dust than anyone should have to deal with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if a 120 is aimed right at it blowing along the vanes of the heatsink that should keep things plenty cool and a bit quieter.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Oh also that fan shown is larger than 60mm. The pump is 60mm(or so) square after all. The fan shown is probably an 80 or 90mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


My thoughts exactly on the 120mm fan just blowing sideways.

Saw the specs and the heatsink is 80mm so an 80mm fan should fit.
Quote:


> Specs and Support:
> 
> Material: Black Anodized Aluminum Extrusion
> Dimensions: 80x80x18mm
> Supported fans: 80x15mm only
> Weight: 5.9 oz (167g)


Source


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## Segovax

Ya I have a 120 on a box blowing at it now, and an 80x15 on the way.

When folding the pump gets extremely hot... both GPU's at 50C CPU at 65C.

OC's in system.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Segovax;14975501*
> Ya I have a 120 on a box blowing at it now, and an 80x15 on the way.
> 
> When folding the pump gets extremely hot... both GPU's at 50C CPU at 65C.
> 
> OC's in system.


Might be better off getting a second pump than getting an 80mm fan.









What's your ambient temp though? That might have something to do with why your pump is running so hot.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## jdangond

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Is that the mcp 35x? How hot is it running? Most of the heat from the pump should be transferred to the loop, though its should be a negligible amount.


I was able to get a 80x25mm fan on mine (with some modding) and it keeps it very cool.



















sorry for the bad quality..took some quick pics with my iphone


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Anyone use a EK Dominator RAM block before and run into issues with the cpu block and a full cover mobo block where the bends are too tight? I'll upload a pic in a sec.


----------



## Ceadderman

@jd... Did you break off the lower mounting tabs and mount to thicker pads to allow longer screws better access? That's what it looks like to me anyway.

Cause I don't see any difference at the HS to the fan.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## mikysee

Here's my very basic water cooling setup using Swiftech H20-220 APEX GT.


----------



## jdangond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14983815*
> @jd... Did you break off the lower mounting tabs and mount to thicker pads to allow longer screws better access? That's what it looks like to me anyway.
> 
> Cause I don't see any difference at the HS to the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


yeah had to remove the mounting holes on the lower side of the fan in order to pass through the thicker portion of the mounting bolts that attaches to the rubber bushings.


----------



## Segovax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14978385*
> Might be better off getting a second pump than getting an 80mm fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's your ambient temp though? That might have something to do with why your pump is running so hot.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


It's about 24-25C ambient in my house. What would getting a second pump accomplish?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Segovax;14984483*
> It's about 24-25C ambient in my house. What would getting a second pump accomplish?


Well I was thinking that you might split them up between components run one before CPU and after the Res and one directly after the Radiator before the Res to flush the Res with cooler liquid since it's directly after the Rad. But being a WC n00b in my own right, that might be me overthinking the issue.

I was also thinking that your Ambient might be higher than that but 24c-25c isn't bad at all.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Lou88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikysee;14984028*
> Here's my very basic water cooling setup using Swiftech H20-220 APEX GT.


i've the same case and i'm going to mount my first loop... can you post other image? i need the photo of mb chipset zone (i'm going to buy that mb and a dual slot vga but i've also bought the chipset wb) and the 5,25 drive zone *O*


----------



## mikysee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou88;14985721*
> i've the same case and i'm going to mount my first loop... can you post other image? i need the photo of mb chipset zone (i'm going to buy that mb and a dual slot vga but i've also bought the chipset wb) and the 5,25 drive zone *O*


Here are some more pics. I couldn't get a good pic of the chipset this morning, will try again later.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

with 600 RPM Flop and with 1200 RPM Top !


----------



## Segovax

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well I was thinking that you might split them up between components run one before CPU and after the Res and one directly after the Radiator before the Res to flush the Res with cooler liquid since it's directly after the Rad. But being a WC n00b in my own right, that might be me overthinking the issue.

I was also thinking that your Ambient might be higher than that but 24c-25c isn't bad at all.









~Ceadder










All a second pump would do is just dump more heat into the loop. Another radiator would bring my delta down a little but there is just no room.


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## Ceadderman

^^^Mebbe a 120mm mounted to the rear exhaust port? There is always room somewheres.









I want Bundy's job.









~Ceadder


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14990135*
> ^^^Mebbe a 120mm mounted to the rear exhaust port? There is always room somewheres.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


I had so many tabs open I forgot what thread I was reading there for a second. Could have sworn you were talking about defending the death star or something.

Anyway, carry on.


----------



## Ceadderman

We were.









~Ceadder


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## RussianJ

Ceadderman and Kevin live in this thread. I swear between "updated" and "







" half the posts are taken up.

Anyways, not happy having 6x120s and only a CPU/gpu loop. More liquid epicness coming soon, another gpu, and MB. Perhaps another rx120 and d5 in dual top.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RussianJ*


Ceadderman and Kevin live in this thread. I swear between "updated" and "







" half the posts are taken up.


hey, every now and again I get to sneak in a post that doesn't use that word 

I used to post a lot more all over the site, but I have not been as active recently.


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## Ceadderman

I'm just making up for the first 300 pages where I didn't post. I didn't even know this thread existed before then.









But I'm glad it does cause I have gotten a lot of good ideas from it since I found out.









~Ceadder


----------



## Segovax

Here's an updated shot with the fans... still gets pretty warm. Oh well I guess I have 2 year warranty.


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## Ceadderman

Would you like to know why your pump gets too warm? I'm surprised I didn't notice this earlier but your GPU dumps right into the Res. Try swapping the GPU hose with the Radiator hose and see how that works.









I know it's not supposed to matter but you're dumping warmer water into the Res and the Pump which already runs hot pushes hot water into the Res to be cooled. Which is a good setup except for the fact that your pump is sucking in warm water. Maybe switching those hoses will work better for you. It's at least worth a try.









Oh yeah, if that doesn't suit you maybe you should mount a 140 where your rear exhaust fan is and then mount the fan mounted to the exterior and go CPU > 140 Rad > Dual GPU > Res. Intel CPU run pretty hot as it is and you've got dual graphics right after it and dumping into an already warm source. I know you don't have alot of space but there are ways about getting around that.

I was just looking at my cabinet and I can't mount quite few Rads in my 140mm spot because my slots are almost touching the fan and the top part has the PSU support just above it. I can run an EK unit but the EK unit is just too thick for what I'm wanting from it. I have only one or two more options however. At least you don't have a PSU support in your way.









Oh yeah if you switch Res and Rad hoses you'll have to switch In/Out hoses on the CPU block. Almost forgot that.









~Ceadder:drink:


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## kevingreenbmx

updated

the pump will always feel warm to the touch, it is not abnormal or bad.


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## KShirza1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;14993980*
> updated
> 
> the pump will always feel warm to the touch, it is not abnormal or bad.


qft


----------



## mikysee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou88;14985721*
> i've the same case and i'm going to mount my first loop... can you post other image? i need the photo of mb chipset zone (i'm going to buy that mb and a dual slot vga but i've also bought the chipset wb) and the 5,25 drive zone *O*


Here is the pic of the chipset.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1;14994622*
> qft


Was there really a need for this chippy comment? If you have something worthwhile to contribute fine. But that just was not necessary. Thanks.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## jellis142

So I assume pumps that are integrated with the reservoir run cooler by default? I wonder when somebody will make a block for the pump...just because they can.


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## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142;14995889*
> So I assume pumps that are integrated with the reservoir run cooler by default? I wonder when somebody will make a block for the pump...just because they can.


because all DDC style pumps run rather hot in comparison to nearly all others. If you don't allow for proper heat dissipation you can easily shorten the life span and/ or bake it to death.


----------



## saer

Does that 35x really get that hot? That it requires a heatsink and a fan


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142;14995889*
> So I assume pumps that are integrated with the reservoir run cooler by default? I wonder when somebody will make a block for the pump...just because they can.


They call that a H50/60/70/80/100


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer;14996077*
> Does that 35x really get that hot? That it requires a heatsink and a fan


No, but some ppl like to in order to increase life span.


----------



## Bouf0010

shouldnt just the water going through it cool it enough??


----------



## bl1nk

Looking for an opinion or two guys; not solely based on WC'ing, but it affects my build.

What I would like help/some opinions on are the sleeving (MDPC) design/color combo. I am going to be doing a Mario themed build.

As of right now I am thinking of doing White+Red+Copper Brown. I plan to pair this with green tubing (thought it would play into the Mario theme nicely, but not sure how it will fit with the sleeving colors) and a helix res from Frozen Q, I'm thinking red/white for that.

My question is how do you guys think this color combo would pair together, is there anything you would change? I'm just not sure if the copper will fit, maybe I should just go white+red with the green tubing?


----------



## Segovax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;14996289*
> No, but some ppl like to in order to increase life span.


Yes they do. My DDC 3.25 burnt up, granted the person who I had sold it to kept in a very hot environment, ambient temperatures around 80F. After it burnt up I traded some air cooling stuff for the setup and redid the loop.

It's just that it seems like most people use XSPC's H2O or a D5 and by comparison those pumps run cool and fairly quiet. But they also have weak head compared to the DDC.

I know it's OK for pumps to be warm. I express concern because it isn't just warm, it hurts to leave my finger on it for protracted lengths of time when I'm folding on every GPU/CPU. With that kind of heat it's going to die like my 3.25, but like I said, 2 year warranty. Hopefully running it at 30% and the heatsink/fan combination it will work for a long time.

It's funny I'm being poked and some people have their DDR3 with their little EK blocks on it. LOL.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm glad I have a HAF 932. I can mount mine on the heatsink and just mount it up off the floor allowing the front 200 to blow air underneath the heatsink. Of course I've got my eye on the XSPC-DDCRES instead of the one bl1nk has. That one's okay but I want something with a bit moar volume inside it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## 808MP5

more pics of my Hermit build














































ispy a MM ext. accession... SB build going in there... might be awhile... still need to test it under air before i put it under water... gonna need to buy more fittings


----------



## badatgames18

holey moley! very nice looking setup ^^


----------



## pale_neon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;14998093*
> more pics of my Hermit build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> ispy a MM ext. accession... SB build going in there... might be awhile... still need to test it under air before i put it under water... gonna need to buy more fittings


When I looked at that build this is how i pictured you


----------



## noak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5;14998093*
> more pics of my Hermit build
> 
> 
> 
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> ispy a MM ext. accession... SB build going in there... might be awhile... still need to test it under air before i put it under water... gonna need to buy more fittings


I don't even know where to begin looking at that beauty


----------



## badatgames18




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14995859*
> Was there really a need for this chippy comment? If you have something worthwhile to contribute fine. But that just was not necessary. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


there was nothing wrong with his post, relax. he was simply stating that he to agrees with what I said.


----------



## tippy25

Well I guess it's time I posted my build in here.










































































Link to the work log is in my sig. First post has links to all important updates and posts w/ pics. It was quite a journey, and it's not over yet.


----------



## Lazloisdavrock

that subwoofer, is huge.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tippy25*


Well I guess it's time I posted my build in here.
*snip*
Link to the work log is in my sig. First post has links to all important updates and posts w/ pics. It was quite a journey, and it's not over yet.


Very nice, very nice. I do wanna see the aquarium build revived









I'm really tempted to go w/ a smaller case a run an external extreme rad







.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bl1nk

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/culad5bimabl.html

Opinions? Need something to pair with my helix res and yes, I want it to be pretty.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

it looks good, is flexible for tubing routing, and I have not heard anything but good things about them, I would say you have a winner.


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15008121*
> it looks good, is flexible for tubing routing, and I have not heard anything but good things about them, I would say you have a winner.


My thoughts exactly. Was originally looking at the 35x, but not a fan of how it looks and the heat issues that are being reported.

Thanks for the opinion kevin, needed someone to reassure me







. I'm too indecisive now a days.


----------



## DragonCypher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazloisdavrock;15005261*
> that subwoofer, is huge.


If I had it my way a 12" sub would be the smallest size available..
I'd get a second one for the back of my room if they weren't so expensive


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazloisdavrock;15005261*
> that subwoofer, is huge.


It's the Corsair SP2500 2.1 speaker system. It's a good system. The sub is a 4th order band pass. I don't know exactly what that means, but I do know that it's a fully enclosed woofer and it sounds awesome. No distortion at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15005888*
> Very nice, very nice. I do wanna see the aquarium build revived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really tempted to go w/ a smaller case a run an external extreme rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I don't think I'm ever going to revive the aquarium build. I had it leak on me twice, and making changes/upgrades/basic maintenance was an all-day endeavor. It was a fun experiment, and the quietest I've ever heard a computer run, but I don't think I'm going to go down that road again. I have 5 gallons of mineral oil and an acrylic motherboard tray for someone who wants to pick up where I left off.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;15008195*
> My thoughts exactly. Was originally looking at the 35x, but not a fan of how it looks and the heat issues that are being reported.
> 
> Thanks for the opinion kevin, needed someone to reassure me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm too indecisive now a days.


I essentially have that (clear acrylic top instead) and it's awesome! Very quiet!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;15008195*
> My thoughts exactly. Was originally looking at the 35x, but not a fan of how it looks and the heat issues that are being reported.
> 
> Thanks for the opinion kevin, needed someone to reassure me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm too indecisive now a days.


You could still get a 35x and just get an aftermarket top for it. Like an EK Black Acetal Top, XSPC Black Acetal Top, or XSPC Clear Acrylic Top. It would be cheaper that way too. EK also makes a clear acrylic, and white acetal DDC top


----------



## S73V3

Just got this set up in my lian li PC-7fn. What do you think. Sorry for the bad picture. It was done with my cell phone. Im going to take higher quality pictures shortly.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Indulgence

that is smexy bundy!


----------



## lollingtonbear

I've got some new watercooling parts and have wc my sig computer.

Before that here is my 939, still going strong









Here are the newer parts being leak tested









Installed and checking the temps









Temps were fine but I didn't like the res, so changed it out for this one









Tubing was also changed to orange

Leak testing









And final pic
There is some cable management still to do but will save that for another day









Bleeding was a bit of a problem, there's still a little bit of air left but less than when it was first filled.

Temps are 5-6 degrees above ambient at idle
and 19-20 degrees above ambient at load

Pump is running at 1300rpm and fans at 1100rpm
I wanted to control the pumps speed to lower noise levels, I did so with the bios.
Below the fan speed controls are the temperature listings.
Take a look at the cpu temperature









Of course it was misreading, but goes to show that the bios temperature sensors aren't always accurate


----------



## jellis142

That's what happens when you add boiling water to your loop before installation







What an epic sensor fail, I had one of those once, it showed the system temperature at 98C after a cold boot.

Nice to see a 939 getting some much needed love


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## motokill36

808MP5 said:


> more pics of my Hermit build
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> That is Nice never thought of having a pc looking so industry
> Dame it Rebuild again i think .


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## num1son

motokill36 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *808MP5*
> 
> 
> more pics of my Hermit build
> 
> That is Nice never thought of having a pc looking so industry
> Dame it Rebuild again i think .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks intense!
> Small detail, but you should find a black sli connector instead of the orange/brown one. Sucks they come with such terrible colors...


----------



## Ceadderman

Excellent job lollington. But you forgot a drain tube. It's not life or death important for your loop but it would make things easier for updating and maintenance of your loop.









The nice thing about your choice or Res is you have the extra port in it. So it's something to keep in mind. 2 more Compression fittings, a female female fitting(G1/4) and a plug and some hose should do the trick.









~Ceadder


----------



## lollingtonbear

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Excellent job lollington. But you forgot a drain tube. It's not life or death important for your loop but it would make things easier for updating and maintenance of your loop.









The nice thing about your choice or Res is you have the extra port in it. So it's something to keep in mind. 2 more Compression fittings, a female female fitting(G1/4) and a plug and some hose should do the trick.









~Ceadder










Thanks for the input Ceadderman









When I got the new parts I had it set up with a different res and knew I would be changing it out soon so I used a drain tube/fitting connected near the res.










Here it is in action










I didnt use it this time round becuase I figured I'll keep the loop as it is for some time. Your right though, does make life easier! 
Luckily there is enough tubing on the pump so I can place out the case to drain when the time comes.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Wow, Apparently I neglected this thread and never posted my rig. It's complete in its current state, but I plan on adding a second GTX570 and have some ideas for fixing possible DDC heat issues. Anyway...

My crapily organized build log is at here.


----------



## Ceadderman

@lollington...

Ha ha you already had it you sly devil.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Kepi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*





















damn you bundy now you have me wanting to switch out my xspc blocks on my 6970's for these or the other ones you linked >_<


----------



## bobfig

edit: i phail


----------



## bl1nk

Found a pretty solid deal on a 655+Bitspower Top/Dress last night. $105 shipped. Granted it is chrome and I was strongly looking for black, but I couldn't pass up the deal. Thinking about buying a black dress kit ($35 new) and selling the chrome, I should be able to make up most of all that money.

You may ask why am I bothering posting, well I thought I should share my excitement with the rest of you.


----------



## BWG

Sorry Kevin, another one...

Can't believe this EK kit manages to keep everything under 45C still.


----------



## bundymania

@Kepi: .....ok and what about this nickel plated aquacomputer block ?


----------



## Onions

o thats nice waht the features of that heatmaster there


----------



## Ceadderman

Bundymania replaces the playboy rabbit icon search as one of my favorite past times. Awesome placement. And the placement in that vertical pic is simply awesome. And much better than "Where's Waldo".









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DeadCellSpawn

Hey guys finished my first build. Love the idea of watercooling and eventually plan on upgrading this build. XSPC - Rasa 750 triple rad
note: the camera makes the computer look a little different


----------



## t-ramp

Nice loop. I like the UV green on blue.









However, those pictures are much larger than necessary. Might want to keep them a bit smaller next time.


----------



## DeadCellSpawn

Thanks! Ill try to edit the post i didnt realize it would come out that big and when i tried changing the size on the original url it stays the same here.


----------



## n0n44m

Posted here before

replaced case fans with some nice Noiseblockers, cleaned out the filter and took some better pics



















   
  

very happy with it now, not planning on any upgrades for at least 12 months


----------



## Kepi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;15027097*
> @Kepi: .....ok and what about this nickel plated aquacomputer block ?


really bundy? REALLY?! .... /wrists


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n0n44m;15030118*


Beast! That just cuts me down to size, nice work. How are the temperatures?


----------



## kamikaze_

XSPC RS360, added on along with the Swiftech dual 120mm radiator at the top of the case. I got at least 8° C. or 10° C. drop on both that GTX 465 and the 980X.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n0n44m;15030118*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Posted here before
> 
> very happy with it now, not planning on any upgrades for at least 12 months


That's what I'm dreaming of building







. Though I want a slightly small mid-tower and the phobya 3x3 rad.

What grill is that? looks really good







Awesome animations btw


----------



## n0n44m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;15030364*
> Beast! That just cuts me down to size, nice work. How are the temperatures?


temp depends on the GTX480 overclock (at 1.2v and 910 core it gives of significantly more heat than stock) and just as much on the controller settings (which rpm at which temperature delta)

at my current settings it stabilizes at ~4 to 5 celcius ambient-water delta with the 9 140mm radiator fans at ~850 rpm. Idles at <2c at 450 rpm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15030501*
> That's what I'm dreaming of building
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Though I want a slightly small mid-tower and the phobya 3x3 rad.
> 
> What grill is that? looks really good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome animations btw


another project? you're not spending the next year playing BF3 on that sweet surround setup?







grill is just the default Watercool.de "brick style" grill. (purchased seperately, just like the brackets to attach it)

I have to warn you though, it is quite stable but pushing it to the side can make it fall over, radiator weighs a ton especially when filled. The Phobya one is less heavy but a mid-tower is less of a counterweight than this (steel chassis) Stacker is.

to be honest, this was my first watercool build (~10 years of air builds) but I think I'll go with a mid-tower and detach the Mo-Ra (buy feet seperately...) next time. Cable management in this one is hard, and it's a bit bent at places as well (old case ey). Basically there's some stuff I learned while building it which I couldn't implement in this mod, but there are hardly any fulltowers out there I like as much as this outdated Stacker.

I like the room it offers but as it will be all SSD in the future (NAS for regular storage) a mid-tower will do fine for me ... white/carbon R3 with a PSU in the front like yours and dual pumps in the bottom ?







I like the sound of that


----------



## Ceadderman

912 Chassis would be EXCELLENT for that endeavor. Steel chassis, flat side panel instead of bumped out protrusion and removable HDD Cage. Wouldn't take much to snip out a little 5.25 sheet metal at the bottom to stick a Rad in the front(or go with Phobya 200/180 unit and mount a 360 up top. Would have to do a little snipping and replacement of the top panel to allow for more airflow but it would be a wicked endeavor.









Besides we miss you at the HAF thread werm.


















~Ceadder


----------



## nismogt1

Hi everyone,

I definitely have a liquid cooled rig.I hope I can join you all. 
It's a cpl yrs old now.But still kicks butt pretty good.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

so...

I have a new toy









anyone interested?


----------



## BWG

Of course!


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

so...

I have a new toy









anyone interested?


Nope, not at all.


----------



## BWG

You are too slow. I do not want to see it now.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *n0n44m*


temp depends on the GTX480 overclock (at 1.2v and 910 core it gives of significantly more heat than stock) and just as much on the controller settings (which rpm at which temperature delta)

at my current settings it stabilizes at ~4 to 5 celcius ambient-water delta with the 9 140mm radiator fans at ~850 rpm. Idles at <2c at 450 rpm

another project? you're not spending the next year playing BF3 on that sweet surround setup?







grill is just the default Watercool.de "brick style" grill. (purchased seperately, just like the brackets to attach it)

I have to warn you though, it is quite stable but pushing it to the side can make it fall over, radiator weighs a ton especially when filled. The Phobya one is less heavy but a mid-tower is less of a counterweight than this (steel chassis) Stacker is.

to be honest, this was my first watercool build (~10 years of air builds) but I think I'll go with a mid-tower and detach the Mo-Ra (buy feet seperately...) next time. Cable management in this one is hard, and it's a bit bent at places as well (old case ey). Basically there's some stuff I learned while building it which I couldn't implement in this mod, but there are hardly any fulltowers out there I like as much as this outdated Stacker.

I like the room it offers but as it will be all SSD in the future (NAS for regular storage) a mid-tower will do fine for me ... white/carbon R3 with a PSU in the front like yours and dual pumps in the bottom ?







I like the sound of that











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


912 Chassis would be EXCELLENT for that endeavor. Steel chassis, flat side panel instead of bumped out protrusion and removable HDD Cage. Wouldn't take much to snip out a little 5.25 sheet metal at the bottom to stick a Rad in the front(or go with Phobya 200/180 unit and mount a 360 up top. Would have to do a little snipping and replacement of the top panel to allow for more airflow but it would be a wicked endeavor.









Besides we miss you at the HAF thread werm.


















~Ceadder


















Don't know yet, but I put in a lot of work into the 800D but my future case will be something along a mid-tower on the small end of the spectrum and a 3x3 rad mounted externally. With all my components I think it should weigh down the rad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

so...

I have a new toy









anyone interested?


Yes!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BWG*


Of course!


awesome, I'll share then









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


Nope, not at all.











well fine then!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BWG*


You are too slow. I do not want to see it now.










hey hey hey! I am uploading!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Yes!










yessir, you do


----------



## Ceadderman

Just get to it or I'ma punch yer ticket and you can show the man upstairs.









Not that he'd care anyway he's a doddering old fool who gums his peas an carrots an wouldn't know water cooling from boiling water.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1123829-little-blue-bet-you-cany-guess.html

BAM! check it.


----------



## BWG

Watercooling at it's peak! I would like to see it suck water and spit it out. Sure, it will make the loop dirty, but it would be such a WIN!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;15036301*
> Watercooling at it's peak! I would like to see it suck water and spit it out. Sure, it will make the loop dirty, but it would be such a WIN!


haha, yea, that would be cool, but we want a closed loop so that it can operate when we have it in dry storage as well as in the water.


----------



## Onions

lol thats cool hae you considered just submerging the rad in the water... no fans means more battery life... not much but some none the less


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;15036775*
> lol thats cool hae you considered just submerging the rad in the water... no fans means more battery life... not much but some none the less


we plan on trying the rad passively air cooled first, we may decide to submerge it though.


----------



## Onions

you would be better off iwth it submerged even if you put it on the turning paddle thing (cant remember the name) it work work awesome XD as a turning mechanism and a rad XD


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismogt1;15031190*
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I definitely have a liquid cooled rig.I hope I can join you all.
> It's a cpl yrs old now.But still kicks butt pretty good.
> 
> *snip*


Nice rig.


----------



## Ixtli

My first attempt at liquid cooling


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;15036898*
> you would be better off iwth it submerged even if you put it on the turning paddle thing (cant remember the name) it work work awesome XD as a turning mechanism and a rad XD


That would be called a "rudder".









I'm glad those years I spent in the Navy didn't go to waste.







lol

And yes running the Rad in the water would have a better cooling effect. If you doubt me go fishing and drop a six pack of beverages in the water tied to a boat with a line. When it gets hot you'll thank me. I used to float down the Boise river with a six pack tied to a line. C-C-C-C-Coooold.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## EvilAndLazy

My first water cooling setup. I am admittedly on a limited budget, so I skipped out on the snazzy angled compression fittings and used standard barb fittings and worm drive clamps (for now) as the computinator still has a long way to go, and I like eating food and having an apartment too.

Pump - Swiftech MCP655
Radiator - Black Ice GTS240
Waterblock - Swiftech Apogee XT rev.2
Resivoir - DD-RAD
Tubing - Fesser Tube, 1/2-3/4

Also, I am NOT at all impressed with the fans I picked out. I was thinking "Cool, fans with UV lights. They're pretty cheap, and this way I won't have to buy a light kit too."
Bad idea. The wires are all too short for any meaningful cable management, and they all take up a PCI port just for an on of switch. These will be replaced with real grown-up fans and a fan controller in the not too distant future.

















Side panel off. Pay no attention to the horrifying snarl of wires that is slowly digesting my pump... Someday I will sit down and tidy up my wiring, but at the moment I was thinking 'Zomg water-cooling' not 'hey, these wires look disorganized, and are having a negative impact on my air flow.' Before that, I had half as many wires running around, and I had them tucked almost-neatly away in the HAF932's hard drive rack or back behind everything in the cable management.










Closeup of reservoir. I didn't want to give up precious 5.25 bay real-estate trying to use the fill port on my HAF-932 or using a bay reservoir. Priming the loop was a bit tricky (I had to actually take the res off and hold it above the rest of my comp so water could get to the pump... derp on me). As far as first attempts go, my case didn't turn into a water ornament, my CPU is cooler and faster than ever, and I learned a lot from this.... grats to me.


----------



## grishkathefool

@Ixtli- I love the brillian white, it looks great!


----------



## EvilAndLazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grishkathefool;15043256*
> @Ixtli- I love the brillian(t) white, it looks great!


For real. How'd you do your lighting?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## EvilAndLazy

Thank ya sir.


----------



## Ceadderman

@Evil... Try using one of these. It only takes up a small amount of space.










Add a 90 degree fitting and run the line down to the top of your DD Res. The DD Fillport Res is above everything only takes a few minutes to fill and you don't have to remove your Res when it's time to drain and refill your setup.

Mine takes up essentially the first two bays the 2nd two are ODD and then Fan Controller. Most people don't even need any more than these two devices so you won't even miss the first two. The last 2 bays can be used for anything you want including nothing. Heck you might even replace the top two grills with a flat LED panel that displays temps an anything else since handheld devices are steadily coming down in price. If you have an ROG board you can even use it to OC outside of the BIOS.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## EvilAndLazy

Thanks. I'm already brainstorming some revisions. Before I get too carried away, is their any reason not to use copper or aluminum pipe in a water cooling system? I want to get rid of those gangly loops connecting to the bottom of my res so I can put my comp back agaisnt my wall without worrying about kinks.
Also, I'm loving the LCD panel idea. I saw something a few months ago taht jumped front and center as soon as you said that.


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilAndLazy;15045171*
> Thanks. I'm already brainstorming some revisions. Before I get too carried away, is their any reason not to use copper or aluminum pipe in a water cooling system? I want to get rid of those gangly loops connecting to the bottom of my res so I can put my comp back agaisnt my wall without worrying about kinks.
> Also, I'm loving the LCD panel idea. I saw something a few months ago taht jumped front and center as soon as you said that.


Copper, no worries. Aluminum is a big no-no; it will cause galvanic corrosion.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;15045214*
> Copper, no worries. Aluminum is a big no-no; it will cause galvanic corrosion.


more precisely, you do not want a mix of the two in the loop, an all aluminum loop would be fine, as is an all copper loop. but since almost all water blocks are copper the way to go is copper tubing.


----------



## EvilAndLazy

Got ya. I figured one or the other would be fine because blocks ARE made out of the two.. Was just wondering if their was a reason using metal pluming pipe would be a no-no, like something they treat it with or somesuch.

Does anyone know WHERE I can find a touchscreen that fits in two bays?
(edit)
Or close enough that I could smash it into the front of my HAF?


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15045233*
> more precisely, you do not want a mix of the two in the loop, an all aluminum loop would be fine, as is an all copper loop. but since almost all water blocks are copper the way to go is copper tubing.


Don't nit-pick my posts. Get out of my thread! Oh wait..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilAndLazy;15045308*
> Got ya. I figured one or the other would be fine because blocks ARE made out of the two.. Was just wondering if their was a reason using metal pluming pipe would be a no-no, like something they treat it with or somesuch.
> 
> Does anyone know WHERE I can find a touchscreen that fits in two bays?
> (edit)
> Or close enough that I could smash it into the front of my HAF?


No there really isn't any reason if you can afford to do it. But why would you want to? Cost is a factor but the ease of access and maintaining a water cooled loop should be your first concern. If you add anything to your loop you now have to add more copper tubing. If you subract something then you have to deal with that as well. Bad enough with vinyl tubing as it is. Doing that with solid metal tubing unless you plan on installing and forgetting it, really isn't worth it.

You can get a small tablet from Apple or some other source. Someone installed an 8 inch tablet in the bottom 4 Bays in the HAF thread someplace. I don't remember exactly when it was posted though otherwise I would have linked you to it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15044340*
> @Evil... Try using one of these. It only takes up a small amount of space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


OKAY!!! I can't believe no one I mean no one commented on this picture, I mean is that a chicken wing in your res or what lol

EDIT OMG! if you look at it long enough OMG take the top inch and half off and look again lol, just put your fingers over it(the top part) if you don't see it


----------



## CircuitFreak

It all started with an H50 the gateway to full on loopage.










EK supreme HF
EK DDC X-RES 100
Bitspower Fittings
Bitspower GTX 470 Full cover block
Koolance 360 rad


----------



## wermad

^^^Very clean Circuit







. Don't forget to update your system to add the cpu block to your cpu cooling specs


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15045981*
> OKAY!!! I can't believe no one I mean no one commented on this picture, I mean is that a chicken wing in your res or what lol
> 
> EDIT OMG! if you look at it long enough OMG take the top inch and half off and look again lol, just put your fingers over it(the top part) if you don't see it


Nope, it's not a chicken wing. And I'm not even going to attempt to figure out what your mind rolled into the gutter to come up with in that last bit.

Before I installed it, I had to rinse it out since I didn't know what kind of coolant was used in it. I got it used, so I wanted to make sure I had no contaminants left over before I fill er up.









So that my friend would be nothing more than a paper towel I used to make sure no liquid leaked out onto my ODD.









Chicken wing...







I do see it but you're goofy.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

sigh









Breaking down my loop to trouble shoot gpu(s). Wish I had the MIVE so I can shutdown each gpu without pulling them out. So far, so good, but got a bit more testing needed on the last one. Gonna scour for a MIVE, I do miss this feature from my old R3E


----------



## GhostDog99

some pix of my rig


----------



## sndstream

I bought this sff Silverstone sg06 and took a stab at doing a full fledged water loop on one of the smaller mini-itx cases out there. I've been plugging away on weekends when I get time and tried to use as many leftover bits from previous builds. Parts list and pics below.

Zotac z68 wifi mobo
i2500k 4.5 at 1.35
Corsair Doms - Limited Ed's 2133 9-10-9-27 @ 1.5
Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 120gb 6gb sata 3's ssd's in raid 0
Palit gtx 560 ti 2gb version @ 1000/2200
Generic BD player
Ybirs cpu block
EKFC gtx 460 gpu block plus nickel backplate
Bitspower ram waterblock
dual ddc's with xspc dual top
HWLabs stealth 120 rad push pull
600 watt psu ripped from sg07
MasterKleer 1/2 tubiing
Misc Compression fittings
uv blue theme
single braid sleeving where the ye can see (for the most part)


































































































Not completely done. Im planning to whip out the router and make a clean opening for the front and possibly redo some of the wiring but right now I got my crosshairs lined up for a caselabs build lol. Maybe find a better filter solution as these are just magnet jobs. Off for looks, on for day to day. TBH it was a fairly tricky build trying to get it all in there especially the wiring. Im not so good with pics but hopefully you guys like my build.......


----------



## jellis142

That's beautiful!!!!!! ^_^ Love when people put ITX rigs under water.


----------



## GhostDog99

love the rig look great mate


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142;15047381*
> That's beautiful!!!!!! ^_^ Love when people put ITX rigs under water.


It sure is.








I can't figure out where the RAD is, I see a fan on top, is that the PSU or RAD ?

Edit: See it now, beside RAM.


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas;15047459*
> It sure is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't figure out where the RAD is, I see a fan on top, is that the PSU or RAD ?


It's in the front. From the front it goes nb fan, rad, gelid fan. Silverstone only made little left and right slots for air intake which is why Im definitely gonna open up the front. I picked up a few "disposable" flush trim bits as the front fascia is aluminum and I'll just use a square jig since I don't think the front will look good with a circular hole.


----------



## Ixtli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilAndLazy;15043501*
> For real. How'd you do your lighting?


I used LED strips







They're called Flexlight Dip LEDS I believe.










Little anecdote: I bought some double sided tape just to mount those strips on top, but it wouldn't stick to it









So I just ran zipties through the 140mm fan holes on top to keep them in place.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99;15047351*
> some pix of my rig


Amazing build mate


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15047583*
> Amazing build mate


Thanks Mate


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mclarenfung

my baby


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mclarenfung;15050955*
> my baby *snip*


all thats missing is some cable management


----------



## ttaylor0024

Awful camera on my phone...

Anyway, added a MCR 420 to the top, have 7 yates running & 4 WinDY Super Silent's. Its currently a CPU only loop, waiting for the 7xxx series to come out to put send some GPUs swimming.

Temps with only the MCR220: 40C Load
Temps with MCR220 & MCR420: 30C Load

Cable management & permanent radiator mounts to come with my mod in the near future (making a false floor & a radiator pedestal stand)


----------



## mclarenfung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;15050980*
> all thats missing is some cable management


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mclarenfung*


waiting for my Hyper x h20 (RMA)ing><


ahh nice

still a nice rig though, i should have mentioned that


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry I'm late today guys, but great great job! Really clean placement of your tubes and a mini ITX under water. That''s just awesome. I plan to do something like that eventually for my Media center. But I'm still working on my Gaming Rig so first things first as they say.









~Ceadder


----------



## imh073p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*


some pix of my rig











What a beast, Great job! Rep+


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nope, it's not a chicken wing. And I'm not even going to attempt to figure out what your mind rolled into the gutter to come up with in that last bit.

Before I installed it, I had to rinse it out since I didn't know what kind of coolant was used in it. I got it used, so I wanted to make sure I had no contaminants left over before I fill er up.









So that my friend would be nothing more than a paper towel I used to make sure no liquid leaked out onto my ODD.









Chicken wing...







I do see it but you're goofy.









~Ceadder










yup I am goofy, 40 no well 27 years of women and booze and of coarse other stuff will do that lol.


----------



## BigTall

My current little project...still a work in progress

Velocity Xtreme - Dragon Series









HAF X red themed.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Looks purty, you should post it up in the HAF thread too.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


yup I am goofy, 40 no well 27 years of women and booze and of coarse other stuff will do that lol.


Haha, yeah point taken.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigTall;15055763*
> My current little project...still a work in progress
> 
> Velocity Xtreme - Dragon Series:devil-smi
> 
> HAF X red themed.


Never seen that door for the X, looks a lot better than the fan one imo. Rig looks awesome btw


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imh073p;15055052*
> What a beast, Great job! Rep+


Thanks bro







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15056817*
> Never seen that door for the X, looks a lot better than the fan one imo. Rig looks awesome btw


i dont think it come like that
he modded the door just like i did


----------



## Warfox101

Because i got sick of red.


----------



## franknitty69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99;15047351*
> some pix of my rig


GhostDog99 what lighting are you using?

Dope rig btw.


----------



## crunkosaur

Hey guys, I recently completed my first watercooling loop a few weeks ago, thought I would share with everyone.









List of parts I used for this setup:
-Silverstone FM181 180mm highspeed fan.
-Phobya Xtreme 200mm Radiator
-2 Gentle Typhoons (3000rpm)
-Black Ice GT Stealth 240(top)

-XSPC 5.25" Bay Res w/ pump
-EK-Supreme HF - Plexi-Nickel EN Rev 3.0 - CPU Water Block
-EK-FC580 GTX+ EN Ref Design GTX580/570 - Plexi+Nickel
-10x 3/8"ID - 1/2"OD Straight Compression Fitting









By crunkosaur at 2011-09-20

The second picture below shows the modifications i had to make to the Corsair 650D. Removed one of the Hard Drive cages, and raised the lower HDD cage and its mount with a wooden block I manufactured and then stained black. Also, I had to drill out 4 mounting holes for the Phobya 200mm Rad.









By crunkosaur at 2011-09-20

Im really happy with the temps. Took the Gtx580 from 80~ to about 45 under 100% load. And the 2600k from about 90 to 65 at full load under IBT.

Future plans for this build include:
-New Tubing, hopefully some black or blue. Weigh in, help me choose!
-New Corsair Pro Series PSU. 850W
-Another GTX580, maybe in a year or two.
-Also, a new exhaust fan, any suggestions? would a third, 120mm Rad be worth it?


----------



## VeryChilled

Heres mine:














































I just finished redoing the entire loop and im really happy with how its turned out







.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Looks good. Another green brother, yay!

Also, GhostDog99, that rig is amazing!


----------



## rushthezeppelin

First foray into water cooling with a kuhler 620. At least I upgraded it over stock with the excalibur fans in push/pull (even taped off the holes in the shroud of the pull fan to give it higher static pressure...actually improved the RPM on it).


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;15059276*
> Looks good. Another green brother, yay!
> 
> Also, GhostDog99, that rig is amazing!


Thanks bro








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *franknitty69;15058480*
> GhostDog99 what lighting are you using?
> 
> Dope rig btw.


the lighting im using is like this

For the CPU, RAM, MOBO lights
Koolance Dual Ultra Bright LED Cable - 3mm, 4-pin - Red
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_837&products_id=26251

For the Res and Dual D5 pump top
Pre-wired with Connectors - 5mm - Red
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_837&products_id=1845

And last for the GPUs
NZXT Sleeved LED Cable Kit - 1M - Red
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_921&products_id=29386


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfox101;15057785*
> Because i got sick of red.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VeryChilled;15059222*
> Heres mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished redoing the entire loop and im really happy with how its turned out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> nice looking rigs thar you guys have great work
Click to expand...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Castle02

Ghostdog99 - the red and black theme looks excellent!!


----------



## AdvanSuper

This is a build I did for a customer, just wanted to share








2600k, Z68-UD7, XFX HD 6970, 16GB Kingston Hyper X
2x OCZ Vertex 3 120GB SSD's Raid 0, 2TB HDD

EK Supreme Full Copper
Heat Killer 69X0 Waterblock
RX360, MCP 355, XSPC Dual Bay DDC res, 6x GT's.

I would have liked to do some color tubing, but they didn't want it :/. I think purple or something would have offset the 800D and the mobo pretty nicely.


IMG_1094 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1108 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1112 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1114 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1120 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1122 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1136 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1138 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1110 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1098 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


IMG_1088 by AdvanSuperDuper, on Flickr


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Castle02*


Ghostdog99 - the red and black theme looks excellent!!


Thanks bro

gatta love the hell theme lol


----------



## noobsrus

jus thought i'd post some pics of my wc rig!

Hope you Like ^^

Thanks!

Attachment 230588
Attachment 230589


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

clean up that red vinyl and it would look awesome. Pretty solid setup you have there.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;15063853*
> This is a build I did for a customer, just wanted to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2600k, Z68-UD7, XFX HD 6970, 16GB Kingston Hyper X
> 2x OCZ Vertex 3 120GB SSD's Raid 0, 2TB HDD
> 
> EK Supreme Full Copper
> Heat Killer 69X0 Waterblock
> RX360, MCP 355, XSPC Dual Bay DDC res, 6x GT's.
> 
> I would have liked to do some color tubing, but they didn't want it :/. I think purple or something would have offset the 800D and the mobo pretty nicely.
> 
> *snip*


Wait did you manage to get that rad in push/pull in the 800D? Noticed you listed 6 GT's.

So I'm curious I have a RX360 in the top of my 800D. Has anyone successfully put one of those in push/pull internally in the top. My only concern with it is my 8 pin power connector to my mobo and having to possibly route the cable a little different and a few capasitors that MIGHT block a fan. Also if I were to use 3 fans on the top pulling and just two on the bottom pushing wouldn't that still yield better results than just 3 in push from the bottom?


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeryChilled;15059222*


I love how your tubing is wrapped around itself in this picture. Your rig looks dope!


----------



## PB4UGO

been messing around modding my Antec 620. Fluid is a brighter orange in reality, but in the photos, it makes me want a Killian's


----------



## MooCwzRck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;15066836*
> been messing around modding my Antec 620. Fluid is a brighter orange in reality, but in the photos, it makes me want a Killian's


That is an absolutely gorgeous theme, man! Great job!


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;15066836*
> been messing around modding my Antec 620. Fluid is a brighter orange in reality, but in the photos, it makes me want a Killian's
> *snip*


Wow man your rig is just looking better and better














.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;15066902*
> Wow man your rig is just looking better and better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


thanks!!

trust me, noone wants this done more than my wife me.









but i just can't stop screwing with it.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooCwzRck;15066887*
> That is an absolutely gorgeous theme, man! Great job!


i appreciate that, thanks!


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;15066953*
> i appreciate that, thanks!


*cough* copy *cough*










I want to go under water... BUT money, money, money...


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem;15066967*
> *cough* copy *cough*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to go under water... BUT money, money, money...


Its really doesn't have yo be that bad. I think I have around $350 ish in mine. But damn if I think about that, I could of had a Gtx 570.


----------



## MooCwzRck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;15066938*
> thanks!!
> 
> trust me, noone wants this done more than my wife me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i just can't stop screwing with it.


Thats the same with mine, man...it sits right next to me, so I just keep tinkering with it. One day it might be moving around a couple of wires, the next it might be resleeving a couple of things, the next changing up all the lighting, the next doing a whole case modification, etc...At least the expensive part is done with, aesthetics are cheap, just usually take some creativity and time and effort!


----------



## cyberbeat

This was mine a few months ago:




























And how I left it in early July:


















I Should have it back in the next week!!









Also have an EK Ram Block, and an Aquaero 5 Lite coming very soon for it too


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem;15066967*
> *cough* copy *cough*


alright alright, ikem...really? we both have white a05's, and Sentry2's...the similarities pretty well end there. but you pop in everytime i post a pic saying i copied you(even if you appear to be joking)...i think you know where i came from on this, having started my mod before finding out about yours...i boil it down to pure coincidence. i just really hope you don't find my mod insulting, because it shouldn't be.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;15066669*
> Wait did you manage to get that rad in push/pull in the 800D? Noticed you listed 6 GT's.
> 
> So I'm curious I have a RX360 in the top of my 800D. Has anyone successfully put one of those in push/pull internally in the top. My only concern with it is my 8 pin power connector to my mobo and having to possibly route the cable a little different and a few capasitors that MIGHT block a fan. Also if I were to use 3 fans on the top pulling and just two on the bottom pushing wouldn't that still yield better results than just 3 in push from the bottom?


Unfortunately due to the mosfet sinks on that board I had to put them outside of the case on the top. I am going to have them order a shroud for it. It would have all fit inside if those damn mosfet sinks weren't so big. I really hated having to put them outside all exposed, but the shroud will clean it up.


----------



## bane-o

Does the build log in my sig count enough to be in this thread yet, or do I need to wait until it's actually under water?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bane-o;15067279*
> Does the build log in my sig count enough to be in this thread yet, or do I need to wait until it's actually under water?


You need to post pictures of it in this thread to be added.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;15066836*
> been messing around modding my Antec 620. Fluid is a brighter orange in reality, but in the photos, it makes me want


Nice rig there mate good job


----------



## DragonCypher

Temporarily redone my loop again as the whiteout slowly takes over..

Still need to source some 6pin pcie cables, sata power cables and other random aesthetics. Such as white vinyl to cover the PSU, lift the bottom rad up a bit to line up with the side panel window and some white backplates to prevent the GPUs from sagging so much.

The fun part will be when the TECs arrive









[EDIT]:
*@ PB4UGO:* I love your rig.. pure liquid awesomeness at its finest


----------



## jello900

thanks ocn, finished my loop. no full case pics yet.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jello900;15068880*
> thanks ocn, finished my loop. no full case pics yet.


From what i can see i think you have the in and out on your cpu block
the rong way

nicee rig btw


----------



## jello900

^ water is coming from the GPUs so the in and out is correct. CPU is the last to receive water here.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jello900;15068974*
> ^ water is coming from the GPUs so the in and out is correct. CPU is the last to receive water here.


got ya than its all good mate


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## skaboy607

Here's my first version and first WC build.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607;15075571*
> Here's my first version and first WC build.
> 
> *snip*


thats really nice man, very clean


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607;15075571*
> Here's my first version and first WC build.


Nice rig you got there bro


----------



## PB4UGO

jello and skaboy....great looking rigs!!!


----------



## Castle02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;15078692*
> jello and skaboy....great looking rigs!!!


I agree!!


----------



## mav2000

Heres where I am right now...still got lots of work to finish:

Please take the time to take a look at my log and add suggestions or critique it if you can...



















More in the link in my sig.


----------



## Bit_reaper

Just finished my rebuild.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Nice build Bit reaper.









I've always liked how those 4870-4890s look with those coolers. I've had a pair of 4870 512mb's at one time.


----------



## Bit_reaper

Thanks







They are reference XFX 4890 as my sig says. I'm actually looking for a new card and intending to put it under water.


----------



## VeryChilled

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bit_reaper*


Just finished my rebuild.











I love the way youve mounted that radiator, really complements your case.


----------



## Onions

here we go i gots a question for you guys... if i got 4 gpus could i parellel two fo them then seris it to the second set that are parelleled ??i hope you guys get what im saying... i think it would look good with ym theme but im wondering on performance


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


here we go i gots a question for you guys... if i got 4 gpus could i parellel two fo them then seris it to the second set that are parelleled ??i hope you guys get what im saying... i think it would look good with ym theme but im wondering on performance


yeah that would work. I dont see how it would affect performance, if you have a good pump theres barely a difference in temps when running parallel vs series.


----------



## Onions

well i got 3 350's
so i think my pumps good lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

we are getting dangerously close to 1000 members


----------



## Zippeee

Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.



















Now for some new gaming hardware!


----------



## SKULLTRA1L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zippeee;15086600*
> Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for some new gaming hardware!


HOLY CRAP! This is awesome dude!


----------



## AndrewM56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zippeee;15086600*
> Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Now for some new gaming hardware!


Wow that looks awesome! Do you have some close ups? The lighting is really cool


----------



## Ceadderman

Water Cooling as art.









*ME LIKEZ!!!*


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Bit_reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zippeee;15086600*
> Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Now for some new gaming hardware!


That's one wicked HTPC


----------



## KShirza1

sick htpc!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zippeee;15086600*
> Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.
> 
> Now for some new gaming hardware!


That is sick! As someone else requested any close ups?


----------



## Worple

Oh man thats sick!!! I hope theres no small kids that live there lol


----------



## Zippeee

Very, very true. No kids ALLOWED!

Stay tuned, I will post some closer ones asap. There's nothing really too special about the hardware (it's old stuff), but it makes for a pretty good HTPC. All of the mounts are custom aluminum with black anodizing. The rad is a Feser Monsta 420 with 6 push/pull loons.


----------



## DirectOverkill

Zippeee, that is ripe for the Guggenheim!


----------



## ScytheNoire

That HTPC on the wall is awesome. More pics please.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zippeee;15086600*
> Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.
> 
> picturesnip
> 
> Now for some new gaming hardware!


whoa, that is sexy!


----------



## Krahe

Awesome and original, well Done Zipeee.


----------



## Canis-X

WOW....can't wait to see some more pics of that. The visual is just stunning!!!


----------



## Edsurf987

Awsome setup on the wall !

Well done : sexiest htpc I've seen.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Oh dang that's cool.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

CONGRATS!!!

Zippeee, You are our most recent Award Winner! You have been honored with the title of:

Living Room Wall Art PC Award Winner!

your name and award have been recorded in the initial post of the thread above the main list of members.

here, have this commemorative picture of a water-related trophy since we do not have funding for real trophies:


----------



## bl1nk

It's about time for some more awards, its been too long kevin







.

Congrats Zippeee!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;15091168*
> It's about time for some more awards, its been too long kevin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Congrats Zippeee!


haha, people can feel free to nominate, If I agree a build is worthy I will make it happen. ;-)


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


CONGRATS!!!

Zippeee, You are our most recent Award Winner! You have been honored with the title of:

Living Room Wall Art PC Award Winner!

your name and award have been recorded in the initial post of the thread above the main list of members.

here, have this commemorative picture of a water-related trophy since we do not have funding for real trophies:












I motion for a vote to set up a donation fund to buy such trophies and send them to the winnarz!


----------



## Zippeee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


CONGRATS!!!

Zippeee, You are our most recent Award Winner! You have been honored with the title of:

Living Room Wall Art Award Winner!

your name and award have been recorded in the initial post of the thread above the main list of members.

here, have this commemorative picture of a water-related trophy since we do not have funding for real trophies:
























Really?! Sweeeeeeeeeet!!!























Thank you sooo much.

-


----------



## kevingreenbmx

haha, how about a donation fund for the guy maintaining this beast of a thread?


----------



## Onions

lol kevin


----------



## boost

Here is my full xspc inside 600t



















Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


----------



## Broseidon

After seeing some of these I feel a bit embarrassed about having an aquagate max.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## lowfat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippeee*


Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.

Now for some new gaming hardware!


Seriously that looks bauce. Not a fan of the PSU though. Kind of clashes with everything else.


----------



## ocman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippeee*


Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.



















Now for some new gaming hardware!


Zippeee, Awesome build!!! And I would suggest you to put a glass or something before it or over it to protect the build and others from (unwanted) accidents!


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ocman*


Zippeee, Awesome build!!! And I would suggest you to put a glass or something before it or over it to protect the build and others from (unwanted) accidents!

















haha yeah no kidding, maybe one of those "invisible fences" for dogs and make your guests wear the collars


----------



## CD69Scorp

Zippeee, That looks Fantastic!! rep+1

Last two winners have been HTPCs


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippeee*


Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.



















Now for some new gaming hardware!


Best HTPC in the history of all history.


----------



## Yokes29

WOW! that guy's set-up is amazing. If Jesus made a computer, it would be this one!
Great work!


----------



## PB4UGO

Zippeee...that is simply stunning...great work!


----------



## wermad

Dream living room setup there Zippee. Congrats on the club award


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zippeee;15086600*
> Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for some new gaming hardware!


great rig bro looks amazing and original love it


----------



## lightsout

Yah that thing is sick! Lets see some bigger photos!


----------



## ocman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607;15075571*
> Here's my first version and first WC build.


Very Neat and Clean!!!









I like the Very Hot Red colour scheme!


----------



## VeryChilled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zippeee;15086600*
> Here's what I did with my three year old Maximus Extreme/QX9850/280 Hydro-copper gaming rig. I needed a new HTPC so on the wall it went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for some new gaming hardware!


Dude thats insane!!!
I'd love to see some close up pics.


----------



## Bouf0010

ppl need to start learning how to *snip* pics out of quotes.


----------



## Nano5656

Usually I would agree Bouf, but I don't even mind seeing that one 12 times.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nano5656*


Usually I would agree Bouf, but I don't even mind seeing that one 12 times.


haha agreed... awesome build zipp


----------



## wermad

Tron home theater setup


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656;15101541*
> Usually I would agree Bouf, but I don't even mind seeing that one 12 times.


Lol that normally drives me nuts too. One is cool but 12 or 13 is maddening.

I could stare at this one all day though!


----------



## Ceadderman

People only quote multiple pics cause they're too laxy to figure out which one they like the best.









Seriously. I don't mind quoting pics but when the same system is quoted in multiple successive posts, it's a little more than frustrating to my OCD.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceadderman;15108349*
> ... To my ocd.


It's CDO! Put it in alphabetical order like it's supposed to be!


----------



## THC Butterz

cant compete with zipp, (great rig btw, my first thought was "mother of god" and then we saw it 20 times...lol) but heres what ive got now due to some financial setbacks, and delays with my build log hp case


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^









@tippy25... My yslexldic must be acting up cause I could swear you said CDO.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kamikaze_

Extreme GTX 460 overclocking?


----------



## bundymania

If youÂ´re wondering......yes, itÂ´s the new EN Nickel Version - not so shiny anymore


----------



## DirectOverkill

@bundy

those in tubes are coolants from ek?


----------



## lightsout

Are those dyes trustworthy? Or will they cause problems.


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Are those dyes trustworthy? Or will they cause problems.


Most any dye is not trustworthy, it is just chemistry. Constant movement+heat will cause most anything to precipitate out in any solution (liquid with more than one component).


----------



## DirectOverkill

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bl1nk*


Most any dye is not trustworthy, it is just chemistry. Constant movement+heat will cause most anything to precipitate out in any solution (liquid with more than one component).


Free chemistry lesson


----------



## wermad

Mayhems seems like a promising setup. Can't find the color I want in the US though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shoot anyone that ever colored a hard boiled egg can tell you that dyes break down. Do the experiment yourself. Get a clear glass fill it with liquid put one drop of dye(preferably a dark color) in mix it up let it sit for a day and check it. You don't need to introduce copper sulfate into the mix. Treat it like a system that gets turned off while at work, school, vacation etc.

You'll find that dye should never be used. Glycol based or not. It's just another way for the manufacturers to keep makin money as you replace your parts. Oh sure it looks cool, but when you're buying more parts to replace the ones dyes ruined that's not so cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15115944*
> You'll find that dye should never be used. Glycol based or not. It's just another way for the manufacturers to keep makin money as you replace your parts. Oh sure it looks cool, but when you're buying more parts to replace the ones dyes ruined that's not so cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Don't want to derail the "PICTURE" thread, but why is it that a bottle of pre-mix that sat for a couple weeks didn't separate? The only parts that would be "Ruined" with dye/premix would be stained tubes and possible acrylic.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15116165*
> Don't want to derail the "PICTURE" thread, but why is it that a bottle of pre-mix that sat for a couple weeks didn't separate? The only parts that would be "Ruined" with dye/premix would be stained tubes and possible acrylic.


I'm assuming that oxygen plays a role in the break down of dyes. But that would be false assumption on my part because I've seen window cleaners and other chemicals with dyes in them break down on store shelves. So it could be sunlight plays a role in it as well. So where are you storing this bottle of dye? In a cool dark room I'm assuming?









And it's not derailing anything so long as the topic is related. Correct?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Angrybutcher

The bottle in question was just sitting on the floor during my build. I didn't use all the fluid and the remaining 200ml or so have been in the same bottle, sitting on my kitchen counter since May with no separation.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15116165*
> Don't want to derail the "PICTURE" thread


this thread is as much or more about discussion man, dont worry at all about derailing it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15118516*
> The bottle in question was just sitting on the floor during my build. I didn't use all the fluid and the remaining 200ml or so have been in the same bottle, sitting on my kitchen counter since May with no separation.


the churning of the pump is what causes most dyes to break down. that and the movement across edges and rough surfaces. the tiny particles in the dyes will build up around any irregularity. Also, frequently they will go bad all of a sudden. like they will seem perfect as new for 7-8 months and then you will look at your loop one day and it will be full of dye-sludge or foam.


----------



## mironccr345

Here's my wifes build with an Eco CooLiT in P/P. Not a custome loop, but it looks good.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

that build looks nice. simple and elegant. not over the top modding, just a well done build


----------



## THC Butterz

got it in a chasis,
my latest build


----------



## jellis142

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Here's my wifes build with an Eco CooLiT in P/P. Not a custome loop, but it looks good.










Very beautiful







That bottom spot vacant of a fan looks awkward to me, and could pull in more air for your 460's. But I'm just being picky! All of these white builds are starting to look more appealing than black themed builds.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


got it in a chasis,
my latest build
*snip*








*snip*


Might be better off with a Phobya 200mm Rad up top.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Here's my wifes build with an Eco CooLiT in P/P. Not a custome loop, but it looks good.








*snip*


I wish my wife would let me build her a custom pc. She don't care about all this custom pc stuff









Love the cleanness of the build btw


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Might be better off with a Phobya 200mm Rad up top.









~Ceadder










Yah, this is just some gear I had lying arround because I sold my sig rig to pay some bills, I just picked up the 912 because I couldnt trust the jumbled mess I had on my desk last night, with my cola addiction I was bound to have an accident, This build is just something to keep me gaming untill I can re afford another full tower and AM3+ setup


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


Yah, this is just some gear I had lying arround because I sold my sig rig to pay some bills, I just picked up the 912 because I couldnt trust the jumbled mess I had on my desk last night, with my cola addiction I was bound to have an accident, This build is just something to keep me gaming untill I can re afford another full tower and AM3+ setup


Yeah, I would never trust myself around a system that is exposed 24/7. I've spilled quite a few 24oz Mtn Dews over the last year I can imagine what might happen...









Not a good thought.









~Ceadder


----------



## saer

Just finished putting her together today, will try to get my build log posted tomorrow.


----------



## bundymania

...looks very good !







Put some Leds in the Res. and Boardblock


----------



## bundymania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DirectOverkill*


@bundy

those in tubes are coolants from ek?


Yeah exactly !







I like the red coolant most


----------



## jello900

a few afternoon shots


----------



## wermad

^^^How the blocks work out for you?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


updated

that build looks nice. simple and elegant. not over the top modding, just a well done build



Thanks! That's what I was going for. Probably one of the cleanest looking rigs I've ever built.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saer*


*snip*


Looking a little flat from the bending for the cpu to the mb? Rig looks awesome btw


----------



## Worple

Sweeeeet


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hey Guys, I know I already asked a lot of questions about this

But I'm looking for blocks to put on my 6970's, what do you think about the koolance VID-Ar697?


----------



## Konkistadori

First WC experiment... Next one will be better looking







..

Case is fractal design define mini.

Rad is Alphacool NexXxos Extreme3.

Works well with single 360 rad with 3xtyphoon at 1000rpm.

Airing this thing was quite hard







.. (if that is right word to it -_-..)

Better pics coming soon.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Konkistadori;15125180*
> First WC experiment... Next one will be better looking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> Case is fractal design define mini.
> 
> Rad is Alphacool NexXxos Extreme3.
> 
> Works well with single 360 rad with 3xtyphoon at 1000rpm.
> 
> Airing this thing was quite hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. (if that is right word to it -_-..)
> 
> Better pics coming soon.


Very nice neat! Even better as it's in a fractal case too!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;15120163*
> Here's my wifes build with an Eco CooLiT in P/P. Not a custome loop, but it looks good.


Dude that is Sick! Idk what it is but I love white cases/pcs. I love your painting job with the black and whit contrast. Only suggestion I can make is different ram, (it clashes, I had the same issue with red ripjaws I got on sale) and if it won't hurt it, paint that sli bridge! That would look sweet.

It looks professional though great job.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys, I need some help! anyone good with power supply knowledge or electrical experience check out this thread please:

http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/1129647-will-power-supply-sufficient-low-power.html


----------



## sate200

next upgrade!!! waiting bitspower 90ª rotary!!! UD7 block, EK-RAM, top Supreme HF Full Nickel!!!


----------



## pcnoob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;15125093*
> Hey Guys, I know I already asked a lot of questions about this
> 
> But I'm looking for blocks to put on my 6970's, what do you think about the koolance VID-Ar697?


I have some on my 6950s. Good blocks.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer;15123499*
> Just finished putting her together today, will try to get my build log posted tomorrow.


WOW that is the sexiest mobo block i have ever seen, SCORE!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Krahe

Installed a loop in my R3









Before










After


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## lightsout

KrÃ¤he That looks great nice job!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;15121236*


Dude, what's a brand of 120MM RAD?


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;15121236*


You should get something to support your GPU, looks like it is saging like hell.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG;15137175*
> Dude, what's a brand of 120MM RAD?


Both my ears are hardware labs


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey for you guys who run EK XFire/SLi and have sagging cards, I'm selling my FC Triple Serial connection. No blanks, no links though...

Link

I won't be able to use it with dual 5770s' and would like to see someone get some use out of it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## andygoyap




----------



## Bastyn99

Hey guys, just bought some new hardware that should arrive next week, so Im gonna have to take my Rasa kit apart and fit it in the new PC. So, how do I drain the loop and how do I clean in afterwards, if its even necesary. Im gonna use new tubing but block and pump/res is gonna be reused.


----------



## saer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saer*


Just finished putting her together today, will try to get my build log posted tomorrow.










































































Build log posted: The Rise Of "Skynet": My first water cooled rig (HAF X, 480 radiator, SLI 580 FTW HC 2's)


----------



## ryanbob1234

Nice rig there saer









Glad you quoted it made me want to click on the link


----------



## MURDoctrine

So I'm thinking about ditching my Bay Res/Pump combo that came with my Rasa kit. Which pump would you guys recommend for me. I have my 2 460's and cpu in the loop along with a rx360 rad. Plan on adding a 120 or 240 to it later.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


So I'm thinking about ditching my Bay Res/Pump combo that came with my Rasa kit. Which pump would you guys recommend for me. I have my 2 460's and cpu in the loop along with a rx360 rad. Plan on adding a 120 or 240 to it later.


ddc 350 would be a good one. bmaverick is selling them here for $35 a pump. Which is HALF the cost of a store bought one. Add a XSPC Res on top and it's Flow goes up from 350 to nearly 450 depending on the unit. At least that's what people are saying about them. They do get a little Hot though and you have to change the connection to either PWM, 3pin or 2pin Molex because these were made with a flat 4 pin connection which is no longer used.









So for $70 + minor amount of shipping you can have a very good unit.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## pewpewlazer

Moved my setup into a Stacker 832. It's a rats nest...


----------



## EvilAndLazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pewpewlazer;15156865*
> Moved my setup into a Stacker 832. It's a rats nest...


Hey. you should go to a hardware store and pick up a pack of worm-drive clamps for your WC hoses. They're super cheap, and work awesome. Not as snazzy as the compression fittings everyone else uses, but they're about 1/10 the price and work just as well, if not better.

Aren't you even a little worried about your hoses blowing off the fittings? Yeesh... I'd lose sleep over that.

Anyway, just some friendly advice. Also, if you want to see a rats nest, go back a few pages on this thread and check out what my case looked like a few days ago.


----------



## wermad

Alrighty then, going to give dyes another try. My loop looks very drab, needs a bit of bling to liven it up


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilAndLazy;15156942*
> Hey. you should go to a hardware store and pick up a pack of worm-drive clamps for your WC hoses. They're super cheap, and work awesome. Not as snazzy as the compression fittings everyone else uses, but they're about 1/10 the price and work just as well, if not better.
> 
> Aren't you even a little worried about your hoses blowing off the fittings? Yeesh... I'd lose sleep over that.
> 
> Anyway, just some friendly advice. Also, if you want to see a rats nest, go back a few pages on this thread and check out what my case looked like a few days ago.


To be quite honest you can go clampless with quite a few barb fittings. The ones you should never go clampless are the ones that don't have more than one lip on them, since there is nothing to secure the hose to the barb other than the initial barb. If they have 3 or better and the hose is the correct size it shouldn't even matter.

That said warm hoses can come off at the worst times when they've become worn. If you stay on top of your hoses it shouldn't matter.

But if I did barbs and I was gonna spend money on clamps then I would get either the Lamptron or the Phobya clamps over the plastic rubbish or zip ties. They just look so much better and perform similarly to Compressions without the price if you just stick to the barbs included with your components.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## pewpewlazer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilAndLazy;15156942*
> Hey. you should go to a hardware store and pick up a pack of worm-drive clamps for your WC hoses. They're super cheap, and work awesome. Not as snazzy as the compression fittings everyone else uses, but they're about 1/10 the price and work just as well, if not better.
> 
> Aren't you even a little worried about your hoses blowing off the fittings? Yeesh... I'd lose sleep over that.
> 
> Anyway, just some friendly advice. Also, if you want to see a rats nest, go back a few pages on this thread and check out what my case looked like a few days ago.


7/16 on 1/2, not worried. Done this for years. I occasionally get a leak from the tubes on the res fittings if they become overly stretched. A ziptie or two fixes that. The tubing grips the plastic barbs on my rad so well I can't remove them without cutting.


----------



## FiX

Finally got mine finished


----------



## Yokes29

Thought i share a recent "noob" water-cooling build for my 800D rig (i7 Hadouken)

























My second rig is going through a major overhaul. Got rid of my 6970's for 580's, got rid of my Haf-X and got myself a CaseLabs M8 case. Here it is....for now:


----------



## 808MP5

Very Nice


----------



## paradoxum

140rad on top, 120 on the back, pump is bottom-right


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

bottom of that case is perfect for a 480 rad


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15159688*
> updated


do you do anyhting but lol man you ran asset to us in the wc community... keeping a thread this large up to date all hours of the day lol.... jsut wanted to let you know we love you


----------



## kevingreenbmx

haha, thanks! and I do post other places in the site too! I just put up a new work log a week ago!


----------



## Onions

lol ive been following little blue... its hte coolest project yet XD did you get that psu problem solved??


----------



## kevingreenbmx

yep, my professor actually decided to go ahead and order the larger PSU, so everything should be dandy!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Checking out the new log now kev


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Checking out the new log now kev


----------



## Divineman

My new build...I pray, that you all say something nice about it








7 months of work, and I'm exhausted...

Enjoy!


----------



## kamikaze_

Looks very awesome. You should post some close-ups of the inside when you can.

4.6GHz on a 45nm quad core i7 is godlike, very skilled to overclock a locked multiplier that high. Great work.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divineman;15165647*
> My new build...I pray, that you all say something nice about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7 months of work, and I'm exhausted...
> 
> Enjoy!


Nice work man!

Lets see some inside shots!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I agree with everyone else. Close up shots please! Looks great from the picture you posted though


----------



## Edsurf987

Look nice ! Close-up pics appreciated


----------



## wermad

Which provides a better effect for uv coolant?: uv cold cathodes or uv leds?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divineman;15165647*
> My new build...I pray, that you all say something nice about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7 months of work, and I'm exhausted...
> 
> Enjoy!


The middle picture should be a side shot of the inside rather than the plain-ish face


----------



## Divineman

Today I will post some close up shots, form inside i have only two or three ;P
It will be updating


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divineman;15171116*
> Today I will post some close up shots, form inside i have only two or three ;P
> It will be updating


nice rig mate
can't wait to see close ups


----------



## wermad

Took a little break as I'm putting in my new mb and new tube, took a little snap shot of my bankruptcy causing gpu setup











Btw, I like how you did that pic Divineman, just needs close ups though


----------



## Divineman

I put some other pics, but not much closeup's







To do some, I need another lens and lights.

Enjoy!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

almost makes me with I didn't trash my p80 for a MM build. Great job! Keep the pics coming.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15171689*
> Took a little break as I'm putting in my new mb and new tube, took a little snap shot of my bankruptcy causing gpu setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I like how you did that pic Divineman, just needs close ups though


looks nice mate
we should make a tri-sli club lol


----------



## Worple

He is mine


----------



## qwwwizx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer;15151732*
> Build log posted: The Rise Of "Skynet": My first water cooled rig (HAF X, 480 radiator, SLI 580 FTW HC 2's)


You need water on the memory

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15174942*
> He is mine


Very nice







. How do you like your XSPC cube case?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99;15172602*
> looks nice mate
> we should make a tri-sli club lol


----------



## Worple

Its not much for looks but it can hold a ton of stuff


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwwwizx;15178523*
> You need water on the memory


I remember last year when I was looking for a mips ramcooler 6 to add to my loop I got flamed for wanting to cool my memory. Now everyone and their mother has ram blocks. Oh how times change.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;15181176*
> I remember last year when I was looking for a mips ramcooler 6 to add to my loop I got flamed for wanting to cool my memory. Now everyone and their mother has ram blocks. Oh how times change.


To be honest though, it really isn't necessary. RAM is much better than it used to be and runs cooler because the manufacturers put good heatsinks on them instead of selling bare stix. Yeah bare sticks are still sold but most people wouldn't even sweat OC'ing those. Not when you can get decent RAM with heatsinks for a little more than bare stix.

Most people don't OC their RAM enough to even warrant putting them under water. I do plan on putting mine under water when I switch back to Doms but that's more to limit heat inside my Folding/Gaming Rig than due to me wanting an extreme OC on them.









That an I really like the Look of a completely WC'ed system. I'll probably put my HDDs' under water too.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;15181176*
> I remember last year when I was looking for a mips ramcooler 6 to add to my loop I got flamed for wanting to cool my memory. Now everyone and their mother has ram blocks. Oh how times change.


Trendsetters are scolded at first but in the end they were right









I haven't bother w/ the ram block. I did want a mb block but MIPS is all pom and I'm still not buying EK for all the crap-tastic fiasco I had with them. So, I'll pass on that for now


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99;15172602*
> looks nice mate
> we should make a tri-sli club lol


I'm in!

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15181356*
> To be honest though, it really isn't necessary. RAM is much better than it used to be and runs cooler because the manufacturers put good heatsinks on them instead of selling bare stix. Yeah bare sticks are still sold but most people wouldn't even sweat OC'ing those. Not when you can get decent RAM with heatsinks for a little more than bare stix.
> 
> Most people don't OC their RAM enough to even warrant putting them under water. I do plan on putting mine under water when I switch back to Doms but that's more to limit heat inside my Folding/Gaming Rig than due to me wanting an extreme OC on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That an I really like the Look of a completely WC'ed system. I'll probably put my HDDs' under water too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I had problems with my memory a couple weeks back when it was realy hot outside and it turned out it was overheating. since then I am not so convinced ram water cooling is pointless...


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha what was your ambient temp at the time BMX?









Didn't say it was pointless. It's just not that necessary in most instances.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15181615*
> Haha what was your ambient temp at the time BMX?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't say it was pointless. It's just not that necessary in most instances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


it was when my AC was dying/dead problems started when the ambient was around 27c and got real bad as my AC got worse and it got up to around 29-30c


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah that had nothing to do with it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Looks like ek has a limited ed red plexi ram block. Would go nice w/ your build Kev









http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.php?mact=News,cntnt01,detail,0&cntnt01articleid=98&cntnt01origid=15&cntnt01returnid=17


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15182124*
> Looks like ek has a limited ed red plexi ram block. Would go nice w/ your build Kev
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.php?mact=News,cntnt01,detail,0&cntnt01articleid=98&cntnt01origid=15&cntnt01returnid=17


Wonder if that block comes in Copper as well.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15181395*
> Trendsetters are scolded at first but in the end they were right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't bother w/ the ram block. I did want a mb block but MIPS is all pom and I'm still not buying EK for all the crap-tastic fiasco I had with them. So, I'll pass on that for now


I really want to use the koolance ram blocks, but high end ram has non-removable heatsinks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;15182721*
> I really want to use the koolance ram blocks, but high end ram has non-removable heatsinks


I like that there's is compatible with a wide range of ram not just doms.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Are the GPUx2 SLI bridges compatible with the GPUx3 blocks?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15183006*
> Are the GPUx2 SLI bridges compatible with the GPUx3 blocks?


Yes, I have the gtx 580 x^3 blocks and the triple link bridge.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Perfect. I'm checking on block and bridge stock from Sidewinder, just waiting on a response. Hoping to have my second 570 before November!


----------



## wermad

Waiting for uv lights and Mayhems uv dye


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

That's awesome. I love the modding you've done to that 800d. Definitely one of the most unique on here internally.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;15184006*
> That's awesome. I love the modding you've done to that 800d. Definitely one of the most unique on here internally.


Thanks







, it don't compare to your gorgeous builds though


----------



## Angrybutcher

I need to hurry up and buy a house with wood floors, then mod the bottom of my HAF-X for 240. I can't mount a bottom rad currently due to craptastical carpeting!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15184193*
> I need to hurry up and buy a house with wood floors, then mod the bottom of my HAF-X for 240. I can't mount a bottom rad currently due to craptastical carpeting!


Make sure you get a home w/ a spare room/level for a man-cave







. Hopefully in a the near future I can get me a home of my own









Line the surface with something that's water proof, ???


----------



## Angrybutcher

No need for a man cave. The whole house will be a man cave! Muahahah









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MURDoctrine

Gah wermad your dye needs to get there faster! I can't wait to see it and btw the rig is gorgeous as always. I want to know how fast that RMS gets your dye to you as well. Thinking about either the deep blue or clear uv blue myself.


----------



## Infernosaint

Got a SR-1 360 and 480 on the way, along with some stuff for mounting the pump better with decoupling. Gonna mount the 480 on the back, with a Koolance mounting kit. I'll have a Hardware Labs GTX 360 for sale, when I'm done


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infernosaint;15185002*
> Got a SR-1 360 and 480 on the way, along with some stuff for mounting the pump better with decoupling. Gonna mount the 480 on the back, with a Koolance mounting kit. I'll have a Hardware Labs GTX 360 for sale, when I'm done


why are you swaping your GTX 360 for and SR-1 360 ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15181545*
> updated
> 
> I'm in!


I think we are on a roll







lol


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99;15185120*
> why are you swaping your GTX 360 for and SR-1 360 ?


Because I'm going to make it near passive, with lots of RAD, and very low fan speed. Also, when I get a better case, I'm going to continue down that road. I know the difference is not that much, but I want to work towards near silence, while keeping the temps down. So if it wasn't now, it would just happen later, might as well do it when pulling the loop apart anyway.

And when I had the chance to work with an SR-1, I noticed the noise changed a bit between the two, with a more pleasant tone on the SR-1


----------



## sate200

waiting compressions 90º for conclusion water cooler!!!! UD7 BLOCK!!!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infernosaint;15185171*
> Because I'm going to make it near passive, with lots of RAD, and very low fan speed. Also, when I get a better case, I'm going to continue down that road. I know the difference is not that much, but I want to work towards near silence, while keeping the temps down. So if it wasn't now, it would just happen later, might as well do it when pulling the loop apart anyway.
> 
> And when I had the chance to work with an SR-1, I noticed the noise changed a bit between the two, with a more pleasant tone on the SR-1


got ya silence is good


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99;15186367*
> got ya silence is good


And right now, when I turn everything down, the pump is the loudest thing by far (it's running at 5/5) It's mounted in the XSPC Dual bay res, with next to no decoupling, so I hope I can get it mounted in a better way, without having to cut out the drive bays, or anything like that.

I have a plan, and I think it's going to work pretty well.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infernosaint;15186426*
> And right now, when I turn everything down, the pump is the loudest thing by far (it's running at 5/5) It's mounted in the XSPC Dual bay res, with next to no decoupling, so I hope I can get it mounted in a better way, without having to cut out the drive bays, or anything like that.
> 
> I have a plan, and I think it's going to work pretty well.


I have 3 D5 Pumps and 12 1500 RPM Fans runing full all the time
i dont here it at all but we all have a different tolerance for noise


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15182124*
> Looks like ek has a limited ed red plexi ram block. Would go nice w/ your build Kev
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.php?mact=News,cntnt01,detail,0&cntnt01articleid=98&cntnt01origid=15&cntnt01returnid=17












I would actually like the black one better though I think, I do not have that clear red acrylic anywhere else in the build and it does not match perfectly. (used to have the red top bridge on my mobo block)

either way, I have absolutely no money to spend on computers these days...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15183006*
> Are the GPUx2 SLI bridges compatible with the GPUx3 blocks?


yep


----------



## bmelf

800D Build - RX360+RX240, Koolance Blocks for VGAs, ApoogeXT, MCP35X and XSPC reservoir.


----------



## GhostDog99

bmelf cant see the pix mate


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

I like that blue and green combo


----------



## GhostDog99

now i see them
rig looks amazing mate


----------



## bmelf

Thx both


----------



## tipgo

Update my new system in Lian Li A20
system
Cpu = Amd phenom x2 550 @ x4 b50
Mb = Gigabyte 990fxa ud5
Vga = Evga gtx285 classified sli + Xfx 9800gtx Phys X
Ram = kington hyper x 4gb bus 2133 cl 9
Psu = Silverstone styder 1500 w
Hdd = Wd 250 + Wd 1 tb

Cooling system
Cpu block = Koolance 360 rev 1.2
Cga block = Koolance vid-nx285x2 + vid-398(9800gtx)
Pump = Ek-dcp 4.0 x2
Fitting and Connector = All Koolance and Bitspower Case Top Water Fill/ Through Hole Fitting Set x2
Reservoir = Bitspower 250 x2
Radiator = Xspc rx480+rx240


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;15188464*
> *snip*


Epic case work. Looks very clean.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmelf;15186713*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 800D Build - RX360+RX240, Koolance Blocks for VGAs, ApoogeXT, MCP35X and XSPC reservoir.


Which coolant and/or dye are you running? Looks really nice









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;15188464*
> Update my new system in Lian Li A20
> system


Wow! Agreed, super clean and tidy looking there mate


----------



## bmelf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15188689*
> Which coolant and/or dye are you running? Looks really nice


Oh.. The epic Hydrix from Swiftech and Destiled water. No PT-nuke/silvercoil in watercooling stores of my country...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ryanbob1234

@tipgo, case looks really nice mate. darn tidy too


----------



## LuminatX

Before the cathodes, and new uv coolant.









After:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

that is a very strange looking CPU block...


----------



## LuminatX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15189184*
> updated
> 
> that is a very strange looking CPU block...


socket 775








its a koolance 300.
they don't sell them anymore, I've had it since like 2007 haha.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

I've got a few of those blocks sitting around. Pity I can't mount them to newer sockets...

If you ever run that block over with your car and scratch the gold plating, I'll sell you one of mine.


----------



## morencyam

@tipgo i really like how clean you were able to make the cables without sleeving. if you havent already, toss a pic in the cable management thread and watch all the sleeving fanatics' heads explode. a paradox loop of sorts


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;15192161*
> @tipgo, toss a pic in the cable management thread and watch all the sleeving fanatics' heads explode. a paradox loop of sorts


Thats just ....well, mean!!







I like it!


----------



## LuminatX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;15189669*
> I've got a few of those blocks sitting around. Pity I can't mount them to newer sockets...
> 
> If you ever run that block over with your car and scratch the gold plating, I'll sell you one of mine.


haha, yeah its a good block surprisingly.
I wish they would make an adapter plate for 1155, I wanna upgrade, but thats just another thing I have to add on the list is a new cpu block.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;15192161*
> @tipgo i really like how clean you were able to make the cables without sleeving. if you havent already, toss a pic in the cable management thread and watch all the sleeving fanatics' heads explode. a paradox loop of sorts


sleeve =! good cable managment

kinda the opposite really. My cables were much less bulky and noticeable before I sleeved them. they look good sleeved, but they are not better manged.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15194366*
> sleeve =! good cable managment
> 
> kinda the opposite really. My cables were much less bulky and noticeable before I sleeved them. they look good sleeved, but they are not better manged.


same here. after sleeving my psu, i found that i had a more difficult time getting everything neatly organized, especially on the back panel behind the mobo tray. it's still pretty much a mess back there. i need to get a "power station" for all the fans and such to cut down on clutter around back. until then, panel cover stays on and nobody sees it


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam;15195122*
> same here. after sleeving my psu, i found that i had a more difficult time getting everything neatly organized, especially on the back panel behind the mobo tray. it's still pretty much a mess back there. i need to get a "power station" for all the fans and such to cut down on clutter around back. until then, panel cover stays on and nobody sees it


this is why you make custom lengths when you sleeve so there is no mess or cables to bundle up


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;15195489*
> this is why you make custom lengths when you sleeve so there is no mess or cables to bundle up


This I agree with this 100%!! It's a pain in the back, but well worth it


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;15195489*
> this is why you make custom lengths when you sleeve so there is no mess or cables to bundle up


On the agenda for the next build. It was my first major build. I learned a lot from my mistakes. Plus watching your dream machine progress has taught me a lot as well

Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Just a little tip for anyone who is thinking about getting mayhem's dye. I have the non UV red and put it in my loop. I put it in drop by drop until it mixed to the whole thing and I was surprised at how much drops I put, was probably like 20 drops? The color seemed fine at that point so I stopped, ran the pc for a few hours and checking on it every 30 mins or so and then went to bed. The next day around the afternoon I checked on the loop and the color was way darker than before. Even though I had let it circulate through the loop for a few hours with no visible signs of color change. But yeah now it looks literally like "blood red"







. Over the next few days the water level went down due to the water filling in the nooks and crannies of the loop and getting most of the air out, so I added more distilled water and the color literally did not change lol. Oh well lol, when I drain my loop in like 2 months or so I'll know to add less







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3;15196118*
> Just a little tip for anyone who is thinking about getting mayhem's dye. I have the non UV red and put it in my loop. I put it in drop by drop until it mixed to the whole thing and I was surprised at how much drops I put, was probably like 20 drops? The color seemed fine at that point so I stopped, ran the pc for a few hours and checking on it every 30 mins or so and then went to bed. The next day around the afternoon I checked on the loop and the color was way darker than before. Even though I had let it circulate through the loop for a few hours with no visible signs of color change. But yeah now it looks literally like "blood red"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Over the next few days the water level went down due to the water filling in the nooks and crannies of the loop and getting most of the air out, so I added more distilled water and the color literally did not change lol. Oh well lol, when I drain my loop in like 2 months or so I'll know to add less
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Drain half the loop and add more distilled to dilute the mixture. Thanks for the headsup, I got some uv green on route from the UK


----------



## Ceadderman

Dyes. Ick!


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15196494*
> Dyes. Ick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Mayhems looks promising









I got a bottle coming in from them and I already have Feser One uv dye. I'm scheming a comparison both uv reaction and long term usage (ie separation, clogging, etc.). I'm putting the Mayhems in my loop for now.

Spending some time trying to customize the harness for the uv lights. I don't like the "sound reactive" inverter and its stupid slot switch.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15196683*
> Mayhems looks promising
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a bottle coming in from them and I already have Feser One uv dye. I'm scheming a comparison both uv reaction and long term usage (ie separation, clogging, etc.). I'm putting the Mayhems in my loop for now.
> 
> Spending some time trying to customize the harness for the uv lights. I don't like the "sound reactive" inverter and its stupid slot switch.


Get a Lamptron Box. $20 at ppcs.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15197186*
> Get a Lamptron Box. $20 at ppcs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I have about 4-6 inverters in my spares bin. I"ll pocket the $20 for something else







....swallow my pride and buy an EK MIVE copper/plexi block







. I love the mips but I rather have plexi to see the dyed liquid flowing through


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15197222*
> I have about 4-6 inverters in my spares bin. I"ll pocket the $20 for something else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....swallow my pride and buy an EK MIVE copper/plexi block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love the mips but I rather have plexi to see the dyed liquid flowing through


Ahhhh but you can plug 4 ccls' in one Lamptron and you can get it with a free rocker switch you can put in an out of the way location to turn it on and off. When I get my ccls' that's what I'll be using only it'll be the 8 ccl model.









Yeah I'm with you on the EK block. I've got to get two of them so I can get the LE Red version that matches my CPU block and then swap the top to a copper one and sell the LE at std price. Still have to get my new RAM but that'll happen fairly soon since my bro is gonna pay me for mine and I'll catch up the difference for a pair of Doms in 1866 and will sell the cooler since I won't need it when they're under water anyway. I'm not even going to pull it out of its box when I get the kit.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion;15182721*
> I really want to use the koolance ram blocks, but high end ram has non-removable heatsinks


sry its so late.. but i use the koolance ram-33's and struggled to get the sinks off my ram for a long time (corsair xms3).. i finally managed to get someone on the phone over at corsair that told me to throw the sticks in the oven for a few minutes to loosen up the adhesive... to my surprise they came off without a fight







dont forget gloves of course


----------



## wermad

^^^may I add: remove stickers/graphics and heatsink/screws/thermal pad before popping in the oven


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15197409*
> ^^^may I add: remove stickers/graphics and heatsink/screws/thermal pad before popping in the oven


well u cant remove the sink... thats the whole point


----------



## wermad

double post


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15197439*
> well u cant remove the sink... thats the whole point


Dominators come w/ a detachable heatsink held by screws w/ a thermal pad in the middle







The larger housing/heatsink is the one in question to remove to add the Koolance ram blocks.










edit: for the doms, the larger heatsink looks more like a heatspreader but I'm sure Corsair has a specific name for it


----------



## Opp47

with the RAM-33 and 35's... you have to get the RAM naked.. otherwise they dont fit correctly..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15197531*
> with the RAM-33 and 35's... you have to get the RAM naked.. otherwise they dont fit correctly..


Correct







. I did research these guys too as I was lusting over the 33s to put on some patriot ram. Some guy on ebay was selling six slightly used 33s for $100. He then pulled the listing before I could bid on it







would have looked awesome on my old R3E.


----------



## Opp47

i love em... not doin them justice in my UFO buiild right now...


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Talking about these?









If so, they are removable as well. I have a bunch of them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3;15197618*
> Talking about these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If so, they are removable as well. I have a bunch of them.


Those are the big arse ones, but its the same for all doms (gt or non-gt/blue). To add the Koolance ram water blocks, you have to remove the housing/heatspreader (main body of the heatsink) so you end up w/ the bare dimm. The Koolance blocks goes over the "naked" dimm.

I had no idea doms had this detachable heatsink for the longest time and hence why they had specific blocks from MIPS and EK. I used the ek one and its pretty straight-forward installation but a bit awkward if the case is not on its side on my 12gb six dimms of doms 1600.


----------



## DragonCypher

Is there anywhere to get those Corsair heatspreaders (not the fancy red bit on top..) separately in order to use the special waterblocks on non-corsair ram?

I was looking at the koolance 33s and such, and they look like a pain to install and not as pretty imo as the EK acrylic.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher;15198026*
> Is there anywhere to get those Corsair heatspreaders (not the fancy red bit on top..) separately in order to use the special waterblocks on non-corsair ram?
> 
> I was looking at the koolance 33s and such, and they look like a pain to install and not as pretty imo as the EK acrylic.


Not really, unless you can find some dead Dominators for dirt cheap just for the headspreader. Then you'll need to attach them to your ram which can be done w/ some thermal adhesive. Its sucks that the only option is Koolance but I gave in and bought six sticks of doms just to get the EK block. Meh, sold them both didn't bother again









Tested my feser uv green, don't mind my little one, its past her bed time:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGJgN8Sys1o[/ame]


----------



## Ceadderman

She's a cutie bro. Why would we mind her?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15198164*
> She's a cutie bro. Why would we mind her?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thanks. At 2.5 years, she's very inquisitive and a handful.


----------



## .::CARLO::.

can i join?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.::CARLO::.;15200477*
> can i join?


Only if you add pictures


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.::CARLO::.;15200477*
> can i join?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15201281*
> Only if you add pictures


...and a rig in the signature.








http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## Baasha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;15188464*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/url] http://image.ohozaa.com/view/3gg6q


Beautiful!

Can you tell me where you got that multi-fan port? And what the output per channel (wattage) on that port?


----------



## willistech

a teaser. Radiator and fittings courtesy of OCN member Worple. Thanks Bro!


----------



## willistech

Build is going in a Corsair 800D just going single loop right now. First go at water cooling.


----------



## Worple




----------



## sate200




----------



## Edsurf987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15197222*
> I have about 4-6 inverters in my spares bin. I"ll pocket the $20 for something else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....swallow my pride and buy an EK MIVE copper/plexi block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love the mips but I rather have plexi to see the dyed liquid flowing through


Nice !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;15202031*
> ...and a rig in the signature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *http://www.overclock.net/specs.php*


No way









You have the exact same System Informations that I have, and from my profile !









If not a mistake, it's kind of stupid... I just don't wanna imagine what you do else on other threads...


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200;15202858*


Sick, you have built the rig of my dreams. Nice build!


----------



## musashin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edsurf987;15204613*
> No way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have the exact same System Informations that I have, and from my profile !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not a mistake, it's kind of stupid... I just don't wanna imagine what you do else on other threads...


Lol o u.

That link takes you to your own system specs page. So of course it shows up as having your exact systems -- it's showing you your own.

Or maybe he just has the same systems as me too!!!


----------



## Edsurf987

Hope you're kidding ! Waht is it ? 1 chance on 10 billion that he's also waiting parts for watercooling his mobo, another 5850 with waterblock , and all other components exactly the same.

*I don't feel it as funny when someone link your system pretending it's his...*


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo;15188464*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/url]


my god, thats amazing dude!! couldnt get much cleaner if you tried!! i assume your waiting on sleeving?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;15207627*
> my god, thats amazing dude!! couldnt get much cleaner if you tried!! i assume your waiting on sleeving?


why would he sleeve that when it looks so good as is?

I have no intention of using sleeving on my next "eye candy" build


----------



## Angrybutcher

There's no need to sleeve solid colored wires


----------



## CH4PZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15207717*
> why would he sleeve that when it looks so good as is?
> 
> I have no intention of using sleeving on my next "eye candy" build


it looks absolutely sexy, i've just never seen a finished bare wire rig, an if he was going to sleeve was just curious as to what colour he was going with, it was by no means a suggestion


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CH4PZ;15207883*
> it looks absolutely sexy, i've just never seen a finished bare wire rig, an if he was going to sleeve was just curious as to what colour he was going with, it was by no means a suggestion


Hush you people. There are no words that need to be said when looking at his system.
So shut up when you are among a god.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

HELP!!! I need this thing to work! and it keeps freezing! (I know, no the right section or place, but I help you guys updating this thread, so help me out!)







seriously though, I am panicking a little...

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/1135334-i3-2100t-build-hard-locks-3d.html


----------



## wermad

fyi, swc has the XSPC Raystorm in stock:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/racpuwai.html


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


fyi, swc has the XSPC Rainstorm in stock:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/racpuwai.html


That looks VERY tempting. The lighting of the block is amazing


----------



## willistech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


fyi, swc has the XSPC *Ray*storm in stock:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/racpuwai.html


I got your back bro!


----------



## bundymania

VIDEOCLIP:

  
 You Tube


----------



## Infernosaint

Hey guys. I got my SR-1 Rads, and I was wondering what fans would be best on these. I already have a set of Triebwerk low speeds on the way, but according to martins charts, the GTs beat them at basically all levels, on the Noise/CFM scale. Should I just get more GTs?

Also, have anyone tried using shrouds with GTs? I'm thinking about going all the way, and using shrouds on both push and pull on all of them. That would be 14 fans


----------



## Onions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*












what is that


----------



## longroadtrip

portable coffee maker...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


what is that


It is a pump + reservoir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*


portable coffee maker...


hahaha


----------



## BZ1891




----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willistech*


I got your back bro!


Thanks, must have been all the rain were having


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## sate200




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

(also, check out my lil blue worklog, just updated and have another incoming







)


----------



## MURDoctrine

Has anyone tried one of these yet? I've got one on the way but was just curious. Praying I can get it to work with my EK gpu blocks but if not meh.

http://www.swiftech.com/slicrossfirebridge.aspx


----------



## wermad

I did a little bit of research on those, it looks like you need blocks with vertical facing ports. So it might work nicely for your uni blocks,


----------



## fastsite

Just got my Feser Xchanger 480 installed









Any clue what happend to my water?

















My old BIX II on the right. The Feser 480 on the left.









All finished. I didn't feel like modding my case more, so there is a clump of wires under the rad. (Something happened to the white balance in this photo, sorry)









Internals


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Did you rinse your Rads before you installed your loop? h2o looks a bit rusty/coppery.









Yeah the Swiftech Crossfire bloks don't look too bad. Put some 90deg fittings in the bottom of the blocks use male/male threaded rotary fittings to connect it up plugs and compressions with 90deg rotaries on top, on the bottom or both, that should be very nice. For me though I would have to do something about that tacky chrome. I'd probably get some Carbon tape and wrap it to give it a different look than what everyone else is doing.

The White wouldn't be too bad with my setup though cause my tubing is White and my comps are Black. It would definitely have that Storm Trooper look goin on. Might have to paint my Radiator White too.









~Ceadder


----------



## cyberbeat

yea looks like you didn't flush it well


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


^^^Did you rinse your Rads before you installed your loop? h2o looks a bit rusty/coppery.









Yeah the Swiftech Crossfire bloks don't look too bad. Put some 90deg fittings in the bottom of the blocks use male/male threaded rotary fittings to connect it up plugs and compressions with 90deg rotaries on top, on the bottom or both, that should be very nice. For me though I would have to do something about that tacky chrome. I'd probably get some Carbon tape and wrap it to give it a different look than what everyone else is doing.

The White wouldn't be too bad with my setup though cause my tubing is White and my comps are Black. It would definitely have that Storm Trooper look goin on. Might have to paint my Radiator White too.









~Ceadder










Yeah I was going to get the white to go with all my white tubing but I'm prob going to follows wermad's lead and go clear tubing with dye. Will probably be deep blue mayhems so I thought white wouldn't look good at that point. I'm a little worried about the chrome logo as well but I'm thinking about finding some kind of transparent black film or something. Would mimic a black chrome if I can do it right.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


^^^Did you rinse your Rads before you installed your loop? h2o looks a bit rusty/coppery.









~Ceadder











Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*


yea looks like you didn't flush it well










I ran this rad in a loop before that one. I flushed both times with vinegar.


----------



## stevevace2

woot got my rasa kit in temps are great cleanest case ive made










add me!

ill get better pics soon!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fastsite*


I ran this rad in a loop before that one. I flushed both times with vinegar.










Try flushing it with warm to hot water. Cold flushing is okay, but you don't always get all the contaminants out with cold liquids. There is a reason the directions on automotive radiator flush additives tell you to run the vehicle before adding the additive. It doesn't have to be scalding hot but it has to be hot enough to get the contaminants to flush out of the Radiator. Especially if it's a used one that has had time to sit. The hotter the better, because your system will never get hot enough to get anything that your hot flush couldn't.









You don't have to use Prestone Radiator Flush though.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## miahallen

I just finished my build "Water & Wood". You can see all the details in my worklog.


----------



## cyronn

Nice setup


----------



## wermad

Any one picked up the Raystorm?

Btw, nice build MiaHallen


----------



## Stevedawg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *miahallen*


*Snip*


Nice build, very clean! Do your legs get a little toasty with the rads pushing onto them?


----------



## miahallen

Nope, the fans suck...they don't blow


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Stevedawg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *miahallen*


Nope, the fans suck...they don't blow










well played, well played


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Any one picked up the Raystorm?

Btw, nice build MiaHallen


Been thinking about changing over to it for my AquaCube...It looks like an interesting block. Might pick one up just to see which one I like better. (HK Special Edition Nickel/Black or this)


----------



## Levesque

Ghetto-rigged MSI Lightning lol! I have 3 like this. No full-cover waterblock for those card on the market? No problems!


















GPU cores always under 35 celsius, even on Furmark, and VRMS under 40-42 celsius. Thosde little RAM heatsinks are really working!


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Levesque*


Ghetto-rigged MSI Lightning lol! I have 3 like this. No full-cover waterblock for those card on the market? No problems!


















GPU cores always under 35 celsius, even on Furmark, and VRMS under 40-42 celsius. Thosde little RAM heatsinks are really working!










Get some of these for your blocks:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...eyword=hw-mnfd


----------



## Levesque

It won't work, since the EK puts the fittings at an angle, and not straight up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Levesque*


It won't work, since the EK puts the fittings at an angle, and not straight up.










Barbs + tube = solution









edit: God I want to add the Feser to my loop so bad!!!! Must resist until Mayhems arrives...


----------



## Levesque

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Barbs + tube = solution










Does Swiftech have a triple bridge also, or just the dual? I have 3 cards, so would need a triple bridge like that.

EDIT: ok, found it in triple. Just ordered one directly from Swiftech. Thank you Wermad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levesque;15224547*
> Does Swiftech have a triple bridge also, or just the dual? I have 3 cards, so would need a triple bridge like that.
> 
> EDIT: ok, found it in triple. Just ordered one directly from Swiftech. Thank you Wermad.


Np, they are the latest player in the bridge game. Waiting on Koolance, Alphacool, & XSPC to see what they come up with.

Edit: I didn't realize ppcs.com didn't have the triple but as you said Swiftech has them directly









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;15223419*
> Been thinking about changing over to it for my AquaCube...It looks like an interesting block. Might pick one up just to see which one I like better. (HK Special Edition Nickel/Black or this)


Let us know how she performs. I'm on the fence since my Rasa is performing great and I don't want to dump money for a couple of degrees


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levesque;15223656*
> Ghetto-rigged MSI Lightning lol! I have 3 like this. No full-cover waterblock for those card on the market? No problems!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU cores always under 35 celsius, even on Furmark, and VRMS under 40-42 celsius. Thosde little RAM heatsinks are really working!


This costs less than a full block right? I like it.


----------



## Edsurf987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15223840*
> edit: God I want to add the Feser to my loop so bad!!!! Must resist until Mayhems arrives...


Did you buy the Aurora pre-mixed or just dyes ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edsurf987;15226472*
> Did you buy the Aurora pre-mixed or just dyes ?


Just dyes, both uv green. I have a little vid I made to test the Feser dye:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGJgN8Sys1o[/ame]


----------



## Edsurf987

Thanks.
Just bought red & deep blue dyes.


----------



## MURDoctrine

If my Swiftech bridge ships Monday I should have it around Thursday or Friday. Putting mine on the same gpu blocks as you Levesque. I'm using hoses not those kind of barbs. Anyhow once it gets here I will have pics up asap.


----------



## Levesque

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;15226340*
> This costs less than a full block right? I like it.


Yeah, but I didn't had any other choice, since this is the MSI Lightning 6970, and there is no full-cover waterblock on the market for those right now.









So I had to go with universal waterblocks to watercool my 3X Lightning 6970 Tri-Fire set-up. No other choice...

But I'm really surprised at the end results. Those puny-little RAM heatsinks are doing a great job! VRMs are never going over 40-42 celsius on full Furmark load, and the GPU never goes over 35 celsius... and this with 1.3v on the cards.









Better results then a full cover waterblock. Really happily surprised at the results honestly.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15223840*
> Barbs + tube = solution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: God I want to add the Feser to my loop so bad!!!! Must resist until Mayhems arrives...


I have had Fessers' UV blue in my loop for 3 months now and its UV properties have all but faded. It looked great the first month but that's about it. And I refuse to keep adding dye to my loop just to replenish the fresh look.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spin Cykle*


I have had Fessers' UV blue in my loop for 3 months now and its UV properties have all but faded. It looked great the first month but that's about it. And I refuse to keep adding dye to my loop just to replenish the fresh look.


Thanks for the info. I'll be setting up a batch for each the Mayhems and the Feser to see which one fades and/or separates. I'm just waiting for the Mayhems to arrive.


----------



## Ceadderman

On Monday or Tuesday I'll be ordering my XSPC ddc Res. Like Bartles and James I do things one step at a time.

Monday I should have enough for my Radiator and a few more EK fittings. So I may be ordering a bit more than what I'm getting now. $80 to put toward Pump and Res though so I hope to have my system under water before the end of the month.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

^^^Bay res or top res?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Levesque*


Ghetto-rigged MSI Lightning lol! I have 3 like this. No full-cover waterblock for those card on the market? No problems!


















GPU cores always under 35 celsius, even on Furmark, and VRMS under 40-42 celsius. Thosde little RAM heatsinks are really working!










Are the ram sinks stuck on top of the black aluminum 'uni-sink'. I am going to throw a universal block on my Lightning XE here soon as well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lowfat*


Are the ram sinks stuck on top of the black aluminum 'uni-sink'. I am going to throw a universal block on my Lightning XE here soon as well?


Looks like it, seems like the stock heatspreader. He's got a lightning 6970 though, might be a different design for the LX 580.


----------



## Levesque

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lowfat*


Are the ram sinks stuck on top of the black aluminum 'uni-sink'.


Yes, exactly. MSI made it that way. There is a black ''unisink'' (stock heatspreader) under the big air stock cooler. So if you are using LN2, or watercooling the Lightning, then the unisink will keep all the other parts (VRMs, RAM, etc) cool (or warm if need be with LN2).

But I didn't want to take any chances and use ''only'' the included unisink, and since those copper heatsinks are totally dirt cheap, I decided to put some on top of the unisink, where the RAMs and VRMs are.









And it's working better then I tought.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I will just leave this here:
http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...oes-green.html


----------



## fastsite

^^ That is one sexy rig and photo!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fastsite;15236773*
> ^^ That is one sexy rig and photo!


Well thank u sir


----------



## EasterEEL

My new watercooled rig. CPU @ 3.8GHz idles 38C and for gaming hits 44-54C and max 60C for stress testing. GPU @ 872MHz idles 30C and for gaming and stress testing hits 42-49C.

*PC Components*
Cooler Master 690 II Advanced
Asus P6X58D-E
Intel i7 930
Corsair DDR3 6GB
PNY GTX580
Intel M-25 160GB
Samsung F3 1TB
LG Blu-ray RW BH10LS30
Hazro HZ27WA LED S-IPS 2560x1440
Seasonic X-Series 760W 80+ Gold

*Watercooled Components*
CPU EK Supreme-HF EN-Nickel-Acetal
GPU EK-FC580-GTX+ EN-Nickel-Acetal
Pump 12V Laing DDC-1T Pro (10w)
XSPC Single 5.25" Bay Reservoir
Radiator Alphacool NexXxoS Xtreme II 240mm rev.2
Radiator Alphacool NexXxoS Pro II 240mm rev. 2
4x 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450
Tygon R3603 3/8"ID-1/2"OD Tubing
Feser One Fluid - UV Green


----------



## mr. biggums

here is mine


----------



## Danzilla

Hey everyone my name is Danny and this is my Corsair 800D Dual loop watercooled case I have just completed. Hope you like it


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Danzilla*


Hey everyone my name is Danny and this is my Corsair 800D Dual loop watercooled case I have just completed. Hope you like it






































Hey man, great looking rig, this is what i've just done to my 800D


----------



## lightsout

Took a couple night shots, pc sits in a bad spot to photo, but I'm too lazy to move it, As always I suck at taking pics.


----------



## Alatar

I feel like posting a video







Admittedly it's a bit old and same goes for the pics as well but oh well.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNHSA7kP5kk[/ame]

and some pics


----------



## nickbaldwin86

interesting setup but I dont understand why the fans on the rad are facing the way they are... they are currently blowing hot air onto the system.


----------



## Alatar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


interesting setup but I dont understand why the fans on the rad are facing the way they are... they are currently blowing hot air onto the system.


It's not really what I'd call hot... And the way I see it is that it's better to have some airflow for the RAM and vrm as well, even if it's a few degrees hotter than ambient.

I thought about doing some testing with a pull setup and a push one from the other side but haven't bothered yet. Maybe someday when I have the time


----------



## nickbaldwin86

All good, just wondering, thought maybe you had a reason, and getting some air on the board is a good enough reason imo. I am sure it cant be much different temps if any at all.

Looks good


----------



## musashin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EasterEEL*


My new watercooled rig. CPU @ 3.8GHz idles 38C and for gaming hits 44-54C and max 60C for stress testing. GPU @ 872MHz idles 30C and for gaming and stress testing hits 42-49C.

*PC Components*
Cooler Master 690 II Advanced
Asus P6X58D-E
Intel i7 930
Corsair DDR3 6GB
PNY GTX580 
Intel M-25 160GB
Samsung F3 1TB
LG Blu-ray RW BH10LS30
Hazro HZ27WA LED S-IPS 2560x1440
Seasonic X-Series 760W 80+ Gold

*Watercooled Components*
CPU EK Supreme-HF EN-Nickel-Acetal
GPU EK-FC580-GTX+ EN-Nickel-Acetal
Pump 12V Laing DDC-1T Pro (10w)
XSPC Single 5.25" Bay Reservoir 
Radiator Alphacool NexXxoS Xtreme II 240mm rev.2
Radiator Alphacool NexXxoS Pro II 240mm rev. 2
4x 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450
Tygon R3603 3/8"ID-1/2"OD Tubing
Feser One Fluid - UV Green


Awesome looking system, but... Internet Explorer??


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *musashin*


Awesome looking system, but... Internet Explorer??


















I, also only use internet explorer, do you have any other (better) alternative?


----------



## musashin

In terms of speed and reliability, either Firefox or Chrome. I personally prefer the interface of Chrome. I guess it all comes down to personal preference. Internet Explorer is just terribly unstable, slow, and has very weak security from my experiences.


----------



## IceColdBrewski

Water Cooling FTW!! Enjoy


----------



## Worple

Looks sweet


----------



## cyberbeat

Click to view full size!

I wonder what this could be, being from that certain location


----------



## kamikaze_

Those Enermax fans got popular fast. I'm not sure what happened to Xigmatek's fans being in use anymore.
Maybe they went out of style?


----------



## Freakn

Received a couple of new toys today

Koolance 370 CPU block and Koolance 240 rad which only cost $110 AUD and considering their cost new over here basically scored the rad for free.

And they are both in PERFECT like new condition.

They'll go with a Black Ice 360 rad on my I7 920 so I can try and get 4.2 on that I've just put together as a 24/7 folder and dedicated server.

Now just need to get a pump and MB block for it and I can take the cheap Xigmatek loop of and shelve it again. It's done alright to keep the 920 to mid 70's while folding for a couple of days

I'll post a couple of pics later


----------



## buddyboy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IceColdBrewski*


Water Cooling FTW!! Enjoy



















Is your top 6950 sagging? It sure looks like it, a lot.


----------



## IceColdBrewski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *buddyboy*


Is your top 6950 sagging? It sure looks like it, a lot.


yea







it was an accident during another mod. hasnt hurt performance. only looks. does anyone have an idea how to fix it?


----------



## DragonCypher

My 2 6950s are sagging just the same.. I was thinking a solid backplate or one of them unisink things from swiftech that goes around the universal block.


----------



## cyberbeat

Finally got home and opened it, the block feels great!
Also noticed they have changed the packaging slightly :thumbup:


----------



## Agueybana_II

How long would it take if I order something from EK to the US? Can't find the block here. Want to join the club.


----------



## willistech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II*


How long would it take if I order something from EK to the US? Can't find the block here. Want to join the club.


frozencpu doesnt carry it?


----------



## cyberbeat

Mine took just under a month on 6-10 day postage to come to NZ...








Still waiting on my PPCs order too, which was shipped a week prior :|
I think it i having a holiday in Brazil according to the tracking.......


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II;15255929*
> How long would it take if I order something from EK to the US? Can't find the block here. Want to join the club.


Yeah just order from frozencpu.com or another domestic online retailer.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15255878*
> Finally got home and opened it, the block feels great!
> Also noticed they have changed the packaging slightly :thumbup:


I got the same block in the mail last weekend... along with the matching chipset/mosfet block for my board. I think the block isn't necessary, but with 10 GT ap-15's for my rads and 6 other intake/exhaust fans, I didn't want add anymore with the noisy corsair ram airflow fans. Plus I like the looks of it.


----------



## Agueybana_II

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willistech;15256018*
> frozencpu doesnt carry it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son;15256231*
> Yeah just order from frozencpu.com or another domestic online retailer.


For some reason it has been pull out of retailers. I am talking about the http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/upload/pictures/DSC_0576_600.jpg It says it is compatible with the Z68XP UD5 which is one of the reason I got the board.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II;15256460*
> For some reason it has been pull out of retailers. I am talking about the http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/upload/pictures/DSC_0576_600.jpg It says it is compatible with the Z68XP UD5 which is one of the reason I got the board.


Gotcha, good looking block!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II;15255929*
> How long would it take if I order something from EK to the US? Can't find the block here. Want to join the club.


Check out Performance-PCs.com. Frozen carries very little in the way of EK components. Performance carries 10x what they do. From fittings to blocks, I would order from Performance first. Their shipping is also a little bit less since they're in Florida and Frozen is in New York.









Although I will have to order my Pump stands from Frozen because Performance is out of stock on the Phobya universal Pump mounting kits. They have the Swiftech ones but at almost twice the price where I can use the Phobya kit to raise my DDC up and into the flow of my front 200mm fan.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Agueybana_II

Plan on ordering a bunch of parts from Performance it is closer and cheaper after looking around prices. They took out the block but might have to email them about it since it was in stock like 2 weeks ago.

Also I email them before and even though they don't encourage it from the response I got I can still pick the merchandise on their location if I decide to drive south to visit some friends and take a few days off.


----------



## cyberbeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser;15256356*
> I got the same block in the mail last weekend... along with the matching chipset/mosfet block for my board. I think the block isn't necessary, but with 10 GT ap-15's for my rads and 6 other intake/exhaust fans, I didn't want add anymore with the noisy corsair ram airflow fans. Plus I like the looks of it.


Yea, i removed the Corsair cooler after about 2 days








I've got the EK MB, and CPU block in nickel + Acetal too, so looks pretty good








The PC should be here this week too, so can then install it all


----------



## airnews39

Sorry wrong post.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS;15252308*
> I, also only use internet explorer, do you have any other (better) alternative?


Pick a browser at random, they're all better than internet explorer.


----------



## THC Butterz

^ I second that motion


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Pick a browser at random, they're all better than internet explorer.


Run Waterfox, it is put together and maintained by a member of OCN. Waterfox is a 64bit version of firefox with other various optimizations.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Run Waterfox, it is put together and maintained by a member of OCN. Waterfox is a 64bit version of firefox with other various optimizations.


I run it,its very good!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


I run it,its very good!


I love it. Now that there is a 64bit flash player, and a 64bit silverlight, it does everything I need it to.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;15262345*
> I love it. Now that there is a 64bit flash player, and a 64bit silverlight, it does everything I need it to.


I hate silverlight 4... if only it worked right...


----------



## willistech

Well i made the mistake of buying the Rasa 240 kit used and it has a bit of algae in it. I took the water block apart and there was algae and some corrosion going on. I'm sure the pump has algae inside of it. the reservoir has some haziness to it looks like the guy tried cleaning it up. do you think I should just upgrade to a different pump setup right away or do you think it will be ok? the water block i think I can clean if I can get these o-ring to seal again. I already had an RX360 rad from Worple, I basically got the kit for $50 just to use the water block and the res/pump. ideas?


----------



## Infernosaint

Try some vinegar or ketchup on the block, and work gently with a toothbrush. Vinegar might be a little harsh on the acrylic and glueing, so try with some dishwashing soap and water, shaking it around to work some of the stains. Just remember to flush it a lot afterwards, soap and a pump would prolly not be wonderful.

As for inside the pump, I'm not sure. A new one might be the easiest way, if it acts up in any way.


----------



## willistech

Yeah, i'm not chancing the pump at all. Going to grab a new XSPC dual bay res and aftermarket pump. the block i'm going to try and clean


----------



## george_orm

its not the kits fault you got algae, where you using any silver in ur system ?
and just flush it really well(the pump),

soupy water on the block and try it all again, with something to kill the algae, if u don't have something to do that it will grow, water at 50c all day is there favourite place to be









if u need to no water to kill the algae just read the RASA forum, like a 1000+ posts from people who ave the kit? would be a good place to ask for help was well.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/882408-official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120.html


----------



## THC Butterz

thats nastey... and a watercooling nightmare... thank god for silver and pc nuke...lol


----------



## willistech

Hell with it going to grab the Raystorm water block too.


----------



## willistech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm;15264801*
> its not the kits fault you got algae, where you using any silver in ur system ?
> and just flush it really well(the pump),
> 
> soupy water on the block and try it all again, with something to kill the algae, if u don't have something to do that it will grow, water at 50c all day is there favourite place to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if u need to no water to kill the algae just read the RASA forum, like a 1000+ posts from people who ave the kit? would be a good place to ask for help was well.
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/882408-official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120.html


Helps if you read my post before posting your opinion. I got the kit this way.


----------



## Infernosaint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willistech;15264740*
> Yeah, i'm not chancing the pump at all. Going to grab a new XSPC dual bay res and aftermarket pump. the block i'm going to try and clean


The XSPC res doesn't really have any decoupling from the rest of the chassis, since it's pretty much stuck in between the 5.25" brackets. I just changed mine to have it mounted on the case, with a phobya noise destructor sandwich between. It's not a big problem, I just wanted to make sure the resonance was minimized.

It was a D5 pump I had mounted in the res, btw.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infernosaint;15264686*
> Try some vinegar or ketchup on the block, and work gently with a toothbrush. Vinegar might be a little harsh on the acrylic and glueing, so try with some dishwashing soap and water, shaking it around to work some of the stains. Just remember to flush it a lot afterwards, soap and a pump would prolly not be wonderful.
> 
> As for inside the pump, I'm not sure. A new one might be the easiest way, if it acts up in any way.


cleaning a water loop is the perfect excuse for fish and chips... ketchup and viniger...yum


----------



## willistech

Thanks for the cleaning tips guys


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willistech;15265063*
> Thanks for the cleaning tips guys


if you want to clean the block, just put some salt on it and then rub a lemon on it, it will come perfectly clean. I did that with my block and it works wonderfully.


----------



## willistech

I'm not going to fool with it. The guy agreed to give me my money back after calling me a 'clean freak'


----------



## Ceadderman

I think dude ran regular water in it for a bit. I doubt that distilled water would promote much in the way of algae in a system unless your temps are so hot that it wouldn't matter what kind of water it was.

I've got 4 jugs of Distilled sitting here under my desk waiting to be flushed through the brand new Radiator. Got killcoil in the container in my desk too so when I get my system together I can just drop it in the DDC Res and fill.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ScytheNoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willistech;15265359*
> I'm not going to fool with it. The guy agreed to give me my money back after calling me a 'clean freak'


Clean freak?







LOL

How about "just wanting it done right" freak.









Guy sounds like an idiot, but glad you'll get your money back.


----------



## willistech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15265710*
> I think dude ran regular water in it for a bit. I doubt that distilled water would promote much in the way of algae in a system unless your temps are so hot that it wouldn't matter what kind of water it was.
> 
> I've got 4 jugs of Distilled sitting here under my desk waiting to be flushed through the brand new Radiator. Got killcoil in the container in my desk too so when I get my system together I can just drop it in the DDC Res and fill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Killcoil was like the first thing I bought for my new setup. Which is why I was super disappointed to find all of that crap.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IceColdBrewski;15252371*
> Water Cooling FTW!! Enjoy


Whats up with that huge loop of tubing connecting the gpu's? Can't you turn those 90's towards each other with a tiny piece of tubing connecting them? Thats how I did it with crossfire 6950's with uni blocks.

Heres an old pic of mine.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15266506*
> Whats up with that huge loop of tubing connecting the gpu's? Can't you turn those 90's towards each other with a tiny piece of tubing connecting them? Thats how I did it with crossfire 6950's with uni blocks.


Blarg! Can't you read just a few posts back? He explained it!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15266584*
> Blarg! Can't you read just a few posts back? He explained it!


Forgive me if I don't catch every single post.

EDIT** Actually I see where he explained why the card was sagging. I was referring to the extra amount of tubing he used.


----------



## Angrybutcher

It's near that post...


----------



## num1son

Yeah someone else should try reading just 1 post all the way through because unless it got removed its not there.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15266770*
> It's near that post...


I'm only seeing one post from him after he posted his rig pics, the one about sagging.


----------



## Greenback

^^this


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15266932*
> I'm only seeing one post from him after he posted his rig pics, the one about sagging.


Sorry, wrong thread







My bad...

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1137667-complete-first-watercooling-project-thoughts.html


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated (holy hell guys, it was only a weekend I was away!







)


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15266981*
> Sorry, wrong thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My bad...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1137667-complete-first-watercooling-project-thoughts.html


Ah there it is. Makes sense now.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;15235494*
> I will just leave this here:
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1136835-lian-li-first-knight-goes-green.html


I find that Waterblock looks extra sexy green with UV Coolant







(I have a slightly different Danger Den block)...










Green Themed Systems Rule!


----------



## longroadtrip

Quick question for everybody...what are your thoughts on fitting size and type? I like the clean look of the barb, but compressions are just so convenient...I'm also trying to decide what size of tubing to go....any thoughts?

I'm doing an M8 build (link in my sig) and am curious if size really matters....(yes, I really typed that) My GF is in hysterics right now...

NVM...bought fittings already....


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy;15268395*
> Green Themed Systems Rule!


+1


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;15268934*
> Quick question for everybody...what are your thoughts on fitting size and type? I like the clean look of the barb, but compressions are just so convenient...I'm also trying to decide what size of tubing to go....any thoughts?
> 
> I'm doing an M8 build (link in my sig) and am curious if size really matters....(yes, I really typed that) My GF is in hysterics right now...
> 
> NVM...bought fittings already....


For me it was cheaper to buy Comps. I could go with the free barbs and get Lamptron or Phobya clamps for them but most of the items on my ta do list don't come with free barbs. So it would have cost me more to go with Barbs. Hafta say that Comps are very simple to work with and as long as your ID/OD is correct should never leak.I got 1/2"x3/4" Comps. Size does matter because it opens up the flow and allows more coolant to fill more space. At least that's what I think.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## airnews39

Hey everyone,

Just a couple shots of my newly watercooled NZXT Phantom.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airnews39;15273262*
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Just a couple shots of my newly watercooled NZXT Phantom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> Looks really nice and cleen mate good job


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15272276*
> For me it was cheaper to buy Comps. I could go with the free barbs and get Lamptron or Phobya clamps for them but most of the items on my ta do list don't come with free barbs. So it would have cost me more to go with Barbs. Hafta say that Comps are very simple to work with and as long as your ID/OD is correct should never leak.I got 1/2"x3/4" Comps. Size does matter because it opens up the flow and allows more coolant to fill more space. At least that's what I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah..found a really good deal on compression fittings in the for sale thread....picking those up.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Worple

@Airnews39 super good job love it


----------



## airnews39

Thanks GhostDog99 & Worple!

Going to most likely be adding a 5870 with a Swiftech Komodo block to the loop shortly...


----------



## bundymania

The Giant from Rhodos...äähhm Iserlohn !


----------



## KaRLiToS

hey bundy, do you have any idea where we can find some of these radiators in North america? Seems like the watercooling in Europe has more variety?

Oh and by the way, nice pics


----------



## kevingreenbmx

little blue is all wet!





































Can I get an "updated" anyone?


----------



## Onions

updated XD


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


hey bundy, do you have any idea where we can find some of these radiators in North america? Seems like the watercooling in Europe has more variety?

Oh and by the way, nice pics










I agree that rad intrigues me.


----------



## Silent8Strike

Some pics of my somewhat recently built water cooling setup inside my HAF X.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Freakn

I was going to cheeky and update the spreed sheet but i dont have access anymore from when we rebuilt the listing but ya beat me to it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;15286030*
> I was going to cheeky and update the spreed sheet but i dont have access anymore from when we rebuilt the listing but ya beat me to it


haha, I can give you access again if you want! you just have to take over updating the whole thread!









It would be nice to be able to just read this thread every now and again without it feeling like a chore...


----------



## Freakn

I would but with 6 week old twins I barely have time to read the thread except on my phone while I'm at work

Which I may be doing now


----------



## Ceadderman

Just sent payment for my DDC 350.









Geezus this is(My build) taking forever though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15287853*
> Just sent payment for my DDC 350.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Geezus this is(My build) taking forever though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


right there with u man... my build fells like an eternity too...

speaking of which...

Just thought id share some updates from my new build... Sry there are so many... I couldnt decide which to post









Hope everyone enjoys


----------



## Ceadderman

Those BP Fittings make me







Opp47.









Are you going to Barb those GPU and connect with a single piece of tubing between the cards? Doesn't look like there is enough room for Comps there.









And poo poo the thought. There is no such thing as too much updates where h2o is concerned.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

lolol.. i like where ur heads at... and ya i LOVE the comps too.... waited good and long for em... glad to finally see em in the rig...

not really sure what im gonna do about the gpu gap.... open to suggestion atm....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15288262*
> lolol.. i like where ur heads at... and ya i LOVE the comps too.... waited good and long for em... glad to finally see em in the rig...
> 
> not really sure what im gonna do about the gpu gap.... open to suggestion atm....


BP had Red barbs. It's what I would do in your situation.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15288376*
> BP had Red barbs. It's what I would do in your situation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


not sure 2 barbs will even fit in there...

but i have black ones im gonna try... cant see myself BUYing barbs if i already have a few spares


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15288388*
> not sure 2 barbs will even fit in there...
> 
> but i have black ones im gonna try... cant see myself BUYing barbs if i already have a few spares


They have Stubby barbs in Red and the gap between the two cards won't even require clamps so you won't have to worry bout the hose blowing off a barb.









Yeah I know you don't feel like spending but consistency is key.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15288411*
> They have Stubby barbs in Red and the gap between the two cards won't even require clamps so you won't have to worry bout the hose blowing off a barb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I know you don't feel like spending but consistency is key.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


i know... lol

thats what drove me to get the red fittings in the frst place..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15288495*
> i know... lol
> 
> thats what drove me to get the red fittings in the frst place..


Trade ya my EK and Enzotech fittings straight across.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mopiko Laila

My wc setup in the making


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15288522*
> Trade ya my EK and Enzotech fittings straight across.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


now now... u know how i feel EK pieces....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15289080*
> now now... u know how i feel EK pieces....










That's why I'd include my ET pieces as well. A little incentive never hurts right.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Opp47

wanna shoot me some pix of the ETs??


----------



## loop0001

some day i SHALL be apart of this thread!!
awesome rigs everyone..quickly filling up my computer and watercooling pron folder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Opp47

i wasnt updated


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Opp47*


i wasnt updated










Dude your a monkey with a gun i would not up date you


----------



## Opp47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


Dude your a monkey with a gun i would not up date you










touche sir.... toucheeee


----------



## Miake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Opp47*


not sure 2 barbs will even fit in there...

but i have black ones im gonna try... cant see myself BUYing barbs if i already have a few spares



try the D Plugs Bitspower make

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26448


----------



## willistech

bitspower fittings are so damn nice


----------



## thrasherht

Man you guys make me want to redo my loop all fancy like with new fittings.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Miake*


try the D Plugs Bitspower make

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26448


if only they were red


----------



## Worple

I think they do make them LINK


----------



## Opp47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


I think they do make them LINK


Ya but i just received my order from them... dont think they would send just 2 :/


----------



## Worple

Lol oh well I tried


----------



## num1son

I need new thermal pads for my ek 580 blocks what do you guys recommend and where should I order it from?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15289296*
> wanna shoot me some pix of the ETs??


Enzotech 45s. Nothin special.









Just ordered 2 more EK Comps. That's 8 in toto thus far. Will be ordering more fairly soon, but I had to order my pins to change the pump connector.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loop0001;15290386*
> some day i SHALL be apart of this thread!!
> awesome rigs everyone..quickly filling up my computer and watercooling pron folder


You already are apart of this thread. I think you should try to be PART of this thread. Being apart of this thread is no way to set a goal.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son;15296202*
> I need new thermal pads for my ek 580 blocks what do you guys recommend and where should I order it from?


HERE


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh, I use Shin Etsu G751. Works awesome for everything except Mosfets. Would probably use it on Mosfets except the cleanup on block maintenance would be too time consuming. I replaced the waxy TIM on my 5770 with it. Awesome temps.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## num1son

Oh can I just put a dab of paste on instead? I've got shin etsu, mx4, and antec f5. I just thought since the blocks came with pads you had to use those?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son;15296991*
> Oh can I just put a dab of paste on instead? I've got shin etsu, mx4, and antec f5. I just thought since the blocks came with pads you had to use those?


Yup just a grain of Cooscous worth. Don't get all buckwild with it and it should be enough. The only pads I will be using in my system are GPU RAM and Mosfets on my Mainboard. You CAN use TIM on the RAM but you have to be really careful with it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15297034*
> Yup just a grain of Cooscous worth. Don't get all buckwild with it and it should be enough. The only pads I will be using in my system are GPU RAM and Mosfets on my Mainboard. You CAN use TIM on the RAM but you have to be really careful with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Good to know! I'll be putting my new 580 under water tonight and cranking the clocks up then. Reps to both of you thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willistech*


thanks for the PSU


















np. Its overkill for my new gpu setup. Going to the post in a few hours to drop it off.

Ordering new case today







. I isz excitedesz


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Add me please, my first attempt at water cooling, Thanks to all the OCN members for there help and advise, I was always hesitant about water, But this site and its members helped me make my dream become a reality.









By hairyhampster at 2011-10-14









By hairyhampster at 2011-10-14









By hairyhampster at 2011-10-14









By hairyhampster at 2011-10-14


----------



## bundymania

Testing goes on...and on


----------



## Bouf0010

need some help guys









http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...ome-ideas.html


----------



## Agent999

Hey guys I am new to this forum and watercooling, just thought I will start off by showing a few pics of my new rig. All comments are welcomed =)


----------



## Spin Cykle




----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spin Cykle;15307135*


What color tubing is that?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;15308007*
> What color tubing is that?


It looks like uv blue dye/liquid but the res has clear liquid







. Must be uv blue tube


----------



## Edsurf987

I'd say clear tubing, blue uv reactive *+* clear blue uv reactive cooling liquid


----------



## t-ramp

Looks almost like plain white tubing to me, with the purple and blueish tint coming from the UV CCFLs.

Actually, not really.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spin Cykle;15307135*
> 
> ***SNIP***


Nice rig man... really clean...

what kinda lights are you using??


----------



## qwwwizx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julio.g5;15299515*


Best looking WC I have ever seen, and I mean it.


----------



## willistech

did he post specs on that radiator yet? looks like the one in my Civic lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edsurf987;15308488*
> I'd say clear tubing, blue uv reactive *+* clear blue uv reactive cooling liquid


Forgot about this one. I know Mayhems has the "clear-uv blue" that's clear under white light and blue under uv light. +1









Got new stuff incoming, can't wait, especially the Mayhems uv green


----------



## willistech

I read all this bad stuff about dye is Mayhems safe or what?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;15303067*
> Your blocks loo alittle dustie.When are you gonna put them to use?


I hope to have it all up and running by Xmas at the latest. I'm DEFINITELY not going into the upcoming Summer on Air. That was a particularly dusty day though cause not only were the birds molting but the window was open.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willistech;15310082*
> I read all this bad stuff about dye is Mayhems safe or what?


A lot of it is speculation and not much has been proven. It was proven that Copper Sulfate will cause Glycol solutions to separate. Some issues people have had may be tubing related, others think it's restrictive blocks causing the problem. Everyone blames the fluid, but nobody can prove their claims, yet we do know some people have had problems.


----------



## willistech

I assumed that. Most of the threads bashing dye were also from like 2009. They claimed the dye separates and clogs everything up. Being that I am a total noob to water cooling i'm not about to chance that sort of thing.


----------



## wermad

Im setting up a couple test bottles to compare Mayhems & feser. For some weird reason, my local Walmarts aren't carrying distilled. Im all out atm


----------



## willistech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15310498*
> Im setting up a couple test bottles to compare Mayhems & feser. For some weird reason, my local Walmarts aren't carrying distilled. Im all out atm


I got mine from Walgreens


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willistech;15310527*
> I got mine from Walgreens


Yeah, they're sprouting everywhere in SoCal. I'll give them a try.

Anyone have pics of Raystorm in action? Can't wait to get mine


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willistech;15310082*
> I read all this bad stuff about dye is Mayhems safe or what?


Personally I think most of the issue is w/ plasticizer used in the the tubing which causes gunk in blocks. I have 1.5 bottles of dye in my current loop and I haven't noticed a decrease in flow over the past 3 months.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Im setting up a couple test bottles to compare Mayhems & feser. For some weird reason, my local Walmarts aren't carrying distilled. Im all out atm










Your local Grocery carries it amigo.









I got mine from my local Grocer for a better price than Wal*mart carries it for.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15310644*
> Your local Grocery carries it amigo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got mine from my local Grocer for a better price than Wal*mart carries it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Funny, non of the big chain and smaller stores carry it. My last jug busted open and made a mess. I asked the walmart reps and they just keep telling to check back another day. They have the gallon jug for $0.84.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Target has it too. It should be in the same isle as their generic bottled water.


----------



## willistech

The walgreens I go to is right by a golf course and I guess they use that stuff in golf cart batteries? So sometimes they are out, but it was like $1.xx something I don't recall


----------



## morencyam

I always get mine at the CVS, essentially the same store as Walgreens, around the corner. Last time I got two gallons and it was under $5


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15310814*
> Funny, non of the big chain and smaller stores carry it. My last jug busted open and made a mess. I asked the walmart reps and they just keep telling to check back another day. They have the gallon jug for $0.84.


Gallon is all I can get here. For some reason the local stores don't want to carry any more of the stuff than they have to. I've got 4 gallons sitting here under the desk. You want one?









Hey BMX, I added a tag. See if you can guess which one guys.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Freakn

Wouldn't be distilled now would it Ceadderman?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Freakn*


Wouldn't be distilled now would it Ceadderman?










Dang! Tried ta be so smooth and ended up Fail.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15308057*
> It looks like uv blue dye/liquid but the res has clear liquid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Must be uv blue tube


Correct. Primo Chill UV Blue Tubing with distilled water and a kill coil. Lighting is complements of CCFL Tubes. You can see the ugly blue inverter on the rear panel with the white wires. As soon as my sleeving supplies come I will be taking care of that. Eventually LED's will be worked into the case. I'm thinking of mounting them in and around the frame for accent lighting the running them to a LED control panel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15308591*
> Nice rig man... really clean...
> 
> what kinda lights are you using??


Thanks you sir. Much appreciated!


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Just finished a redo of my rig. What do you guys think, looking for any critiques?


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;15313130*
> Just finished a redo of my rig. What do you guys think, looking for any critiques?
> 
> Ahh yes! Another beautiful CaseLabs build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm an owner of a T10 myself.


----------



## wermad

Case Labs =


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331;15313207*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;15313130*
> Just finished a redo of my rig. What do you guys think, looking for any critiques?
> 
> Ahh yes! Another beautiful CaseLabs build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm an owner of a T10 myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man. Im so temped to just buy a T10 or TH10 and do another build.
Click to expand...


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;15313130*
> Just finished a redo of my rig. What do you guys think, looking for any critiques?
> *snip


Only critique I have would be to throw some white under the sleeving so the dark wires don't bleed. However, at this point- I wouldn't go through the hassle.

Great looking build man.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;15313264*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TPE-331;15313207*
> 
> Thanks man. Im so temped to just buy a T10 or TH10 and do another build.
> 
> 
> 
> I hear ya man. I'm waiting for the TX10 to come out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it does, keep your eyes open for "Project Panty Dropper" It's going to be epic!
Click to expand...


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1nk;15313325*
> Only critique I have would be to throw some white under the sleeving so the dark wires don't bleed. However, at this point- I wouldn't go through the hassle.
> 
> Great looking build man.


Ya this was my first attemp at sleeving, and it didnt turn out the way I envisioned. I may down the road attemp to redo it. Would I just run heatshrink under the sleeving to correct that?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331;15313368*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;15313264*
> 
> I hear ya man. I'm waiting for the TX10 to come out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it does, keep your eyes open for "Project Panty Dropper" It's going to be epic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LMAO Yeh thats would be my dream case, but I would have to change the name to "Project DIVORCE"
Click to expand...


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9;15313370*
> Ya this was my first attemp at sleeving, and it didnt turn out the way I envisioned. I may down the road attemp to redo it. Would I just run heatshrink under the sleeving to correct that?


Couple different options.. heatshrink, spray paint, electrical tape, custom wires.
Heatshrink would be darn expensive, I personally would opt for white electrical tape and will be in a few days when I start sleeving my PSU.


----------



## TPE-331

LMAO Yeh thats would be my dream case, but I would have to change the name to "Project DIVORCE"







[/QUOTE]

LOL. I'm glad my better half has given me her blessing to buy the TX10 when it comes out.







However, she doesn't agree with the "Panty Dropper" theme.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Freakn

Well now before the "Look at those cables" & "Ouch that hurts my eye's" this rig has been built for only 2 purposes, "wow thats neat" and "I forgot I have OCD when I look at that work of art"









It is only built to stream media and fold 24/7 at 4.2 plus

Oh and taken with an iphone so leave that part alone











Shiny Koolance 370



360 feeds directly into the block [1850 GT's push with shroud] and a bit of storage



Block to 240 with Xiggies in push pull then to the pump so its cooled slightly to help keep the cheap pump running strong



Now to fill and do some leak testing and start pushing some volts through the chip


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Freakn*


Oh and taken with an iphone so leave that part alone










dude, all the pics I post are taken with my iPhone... you can do better than that...


----------



## Freakn

Could but at that point in time I had a 6 week old in my hands

Plus I'm lazy so they'll do for now.

Oh what the hell I'll grab some better one later once its running


----------



## mxthunder

My rig, as it sits right now, always changing. Looking to add another 580 and waterblock in the future, as well as upgrade to 8GB RAM.


----------



## wermad

I did a little comparison if anyone is interested on mayhems uv green dye vs feser one uv green dye:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post15314503


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## MURDoctrine

Got my universal SLi bridge and installed. So far about the same temps all around maybe 1-2C lower on top card in games. Overall I'm pleased.

Before:










After:










Haha ignore the fan down there that cools my heatsinks on them XD. Moved it out of the shot.


----------



## THC Butterz

^moving a fan for the purpouse of a good pic is cheating








btw you should get some of the nzxt single sleved extensions for your fans


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


^moving a fan for the purpouse of a good pic is cheating








btw you should get some of the nzxt single sleved extensions for your fans


Meh its one of the fans that came with the Rasa RX360 kit. I used to not have anything moving air on the cards because they were at stock. But since I jacked them up to 900hz at 1.087v I figured heh might need some airflow.


----------



## THC Butterz

it will only really be nessasary for cooling the gfx cards vrms, which cook when overclocking, and I dont see heat syncs on your vrms


----------



## Ceadderman

Nothing beats Testors white spray paint for camouflaging cables before sleeving. Works great on plastics and one can will last forever it seems. I would recommend that over electrical tape any day of the year.









Heh didn't see this moved a whole page since I was last here.









~Ceadder


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


it will only really be nessasary for cooling the gfx cards vrms, which cook when overclocking, and I dont see heat syncs on your vrms










idk i just put it on what I thought needed it /shrugs. All guides I saw just had them throwing it on the vram. I'm a rookie to this so yeah







. Anyway any suggestions on heatsinks for them? I have a MSI Cyclone card and MSI Hawk. Both are GTX 460's.These are what I have on the vram should I just get some more for them as well? [URL=]http://www.frozencpu.com/products/38...html?tl=g40c16[/URL]


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;15313921*
> 
> Shiny Koolance 370


Love how the intel 370 looks









Reminds me of a ninja star...ready to cut some temps down baby!



















































Btw, you planning to plumb that GB chip block?


----------



## Freakn

Thinking about just putting the highrise air cooler block on it with a fan as i don't believe you can change the barbs and they are only 3/8"

Looking for a full block for the board, put learning how to OC intel is the firsst thing on my list


----------



## bundymania

Next candidate....


----------



## Worple

I love the looks of those things


----------



## cyberbeat

Finally got my PC back from AUS and setup


















Also got the new RAM block in


----------



## Worple

Looks Sick !! Good job


----------



## cyberbeat

Thanks!


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15317188*
> Finally got my PC back from AUS and setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got the new RAM block in


nice looking rig, one suggestion though, you should turn your fans on the back rad 180 degress so that the wires are on the other side and not crossing over your rad


----------



## wermad

Bundy and his water pr0n. You lucky bastard!







:thumb:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;15316965*
> Thinking about just putting the highrise air cooler block on it with a fan as i don't believe you can change the barbs and they are only 3/8"
> 
> Looking for a full block for the board, put learning how to OC intel is the firsst thing on my list


http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/x58-chipset/gigabyte.html

Make sure you pick the right one for which ever revision your mb is


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;15316965*
> Thinking about just putting the highrise air cooler block on it with a fan as i don't believe you can change the barbs and they are only 3/8"
> 
> Looking for a full block for the board, put learning how to OC intel is the firsst thing on my list


You can use reducer fittings to connect it if you don't want to spend for FC. By doing so it should actually increase pressure in your system.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cyberbeat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*


nice looking rig, one suggestion though, you should turn your fans on the back rad 180 degress so that the wires are on the other side and not crossing over your rad











Yea I may end up doing that, will only take a few mins. So Will probably do it next time i have a fiddle around with it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## yutzybrian

Man can't believe I forgot about this thread. This is my 2nd post, member #61

Pretty simple. Had to cut some of the chassis out of the way to accommodate the radiator. Still a really tight fit because of how the DVD drive mounts in this case. Corsair H60 cooling unit, couldn't fit anything bigger lol


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian;15336136*
> Man can't believe I forgot about this thread. This is my 2nd post, member #61
> 
> Pretty simple. Had to cut some of the chassis out of the way to accommodate the radiator. Still a really tight fit because of how the DVD drive mounts in this case. Corsair H60 cooling unit, couldn't fit anything bigger lol


Use a converter to a slim line dvd burner insteadm cut the 5.25 bay a tad and able to mount the fan inside as well

....

profit?


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ;15336176*
> Use a converter to a slim line dvd burner insteadm cut the 5.25 bay a tad and able to mount the fan inside as well
> 
> ....
> 
> profit?


Not enough clearance between the mobo I/O ports to put the fan on the inside unless I also buy a slim fan. It works as is and I'm not putting any more money into a computer until Ivy drops. Then its total system rebuild time


----------



## crunkosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15317188*
> Finally got my PC back from AUS and setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got the new RAM block in










mfw when i realized you had another rad sitting in the top of your 800D!

It must cool like a beast.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## cyberbeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur;15336513*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mfw when i realized you had another rad sitting in the top of your 800D!
> 
> It must cool like a beast.


Temps are OK, Due to the top rad being just a cheapo EK rad that i bought second hand. Will probably eventually Put the rear SR1 up top, and put a 560 on the back









This is idle, about 22 ambient


----------



## Onions

but what r they on load


----------



## cyberbeat

Running Prime 95, and Furmark, on 5760*1080 8X AA
for about 5 mins


----------



## Angrybutcher

Wait, your GPUs are reaching 70/80c? That is way high for liquid.


----------



## cyberbeat

It doesn't surprise me, they are overclocked 470s running at 1V...
They would just overheat and die on air.
Plus that was on extreme load, CPU at 100% and all three GPUs at 100%
Would never get like that in normal games etc.


----------



## Angrybutcher

I know our setups are different and you do have 3 gpus, but even with my CPU and GPU tapped at 100% for days, my GPU never hits 42c @ 1.1v. I expect it to go up once I add a second card in a few weeks, but 80c seems way too high imo. Yeah it's still within limits, but I'd expect no more than 55-60c on each card.


----------



## cyberbeat

You'd hope, but gotta remember, 4XX draw more power than the 5XX series, Although I do agree that it is a little weird....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15338549*
> I know our setups are different and you do have 3 gpus, but even with my CPU and GPU tapped at 100% for days, my GPU never hits 42c @ 1.1v. I expect it to go up once I add a second card in a few weeks, but 80c seems way too high imo. Yeah it's still within limits, but I'd expect no more than 55-60c on each card.


Fermi are 12" flamethrowers. They used them in WWII through Viet Nam for clearing bunkers.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cyberbeat

Hahahahah sooo true....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15338887*
> Hahahahah sooo true....


There fixed. My stupid iobit program was blocking my ability to cut and paste.









Is gone now.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Miake

here is my build i just finnished an hour ago


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miake;15339266*
> ~snip~


Very nice!










Any ideas on how I can run this loop so it goes CPU to GPU. I wanted to keep the build looking minimal so I ended up with Res>pump>240rad>gpu>cpu>360rad
but i'd like to see if anyone has any ideas.

I know it doesn't really matter but would nice if cpu got cooler water first.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Got some questions. Ok so I'm wanting to drop my loops temps some and was curious. I'm currently running a RX360 up top in my 800D with 3 GT AP15s in push exausting out the top with all other fans as intakes. Noticed that my gpu temps have gotten higher which I think is due to my new swiftech parallel bridge and their OC. They prob could use a new reseat because I did move the universal gpu blocks around a tad installing the bridge so thats on the todo list this week. Temps on CPU seem about same, GPU's were just hitting 47C(top card) 43c(bottom card) playing the witcher 2 at 900/1800/2100 with +100mV. Anyhow to the questions.

1. Will changing my fans on the rad to intake help me any?

2. Would I see any improvement by adding just a RX120 to the loop? I'm planning on removing the bottom hdd cage anyway and adding a RX240 just haven't gotten around to it. Would it be better to just bite the bullet on that?

3. Any other suggestions?


----------



## n0n44m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15338562*
> You'd hope, but gotta remember, 4XX draw more power than the 5XX series, Although I do agree that it is a little weird....


Furmark 1080p 8x MSAA (burn in, xtreme burn in and post FX all enabled) makes my GTX480 go *48c at 26c water* temperature when I clock it to the same 1.1v 810 core settings

apart from the fact that a 480 uses even more energy at the same settings, I'd "need" about 45c water to get my 480 to top out at 67c, which is the lowest of your three cards

I know your setup has triple cards and a motherboard block as well, and the CPU uses more energy than mine, but 8*120 is quite a bit of cooling power







do you have any idea what the water temperature is? Or are you running the fans at a very low rpm?

also the _max_ temp of the first 470 is significantly higher than the temperature of the other two


----------



## cyberbeat

Yea, it's a little weird, I would know what my water temperature of my loop is, if it wern't for ******ed PPCs shipping my order to F-ing Brazil a month ago! idiots.
Also it was Furmark at 5760*1080 too.
and fans are at their max, it think thats 1200RPM or something, they are Noise Blocker PL2s
I have the CPU - MB - RAM - and the 3 470s in the loop.


----------



## Schaden

Will have finished this block soon, just have to sand and polish the crap out of it. then I have to finish modding my case (pcq08) and somehow fit a 240x240 rad in it. This is going to be hard.









showing the translucent acrylic


----------



## Mopiko Laila

Finally finished my wc dual loop setup, now sleeving time


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## solar0987

I get it finally done!!! Minus processor and well bulldozer is fail. Sold amd board got a Intel ud5. Get to start all over again...


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15338518*
> It doesn't surprise me, they are overclocked 470s running at 1V...
> They would just overheat and die on air.
> Plus that was on extreme load, CPU at 100% and all three GPUs at 100%
> Would never get like that in normal games etc.


i have 470 OC to the max and max V never goes above 48c and thats on a really hot day, usually load at 44c and idle at 32-35


----------



## cyberbeat

Yea it is a little weird i guess... don't know what i can do about that though :s

EDIT:
They where quite happily sittings at 26 overnight


----------



## javaneze

Some exquisite and inspiring builds in this thread.








I am moving in a 650D in a week or two so here are the most updated pics of my current setup.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Nice looking HafX Javaneze. Nice to know that the EK 120 will fit on the inside rear along with the 360. I didn't think it would as I went with a BlackIce Stealth, though I am using a 38mm thick Delta fan on it


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Schaden*


Will have finished this block soon, just have to sand and polish the crap out of it. then I have to finish modding my case (pcq08) and somehow fit a 240x240 rad in it. This is going to be hard.


That is one nice looking block! Good luck on the build.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

I like the plexi work Javaneze. I was on the verge of picking up a HAF-X for $129.99 from geeks.com but I went with something different.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15339726*
> Yea, it's a little weird, I would know what my water temperature of my loop is, if it wern't for ******ed PPCs shipping my order to F-ing Brazil a month ago! idiots.
> Also it was Furmark at 5760*1080 too.
> and fans are at their max, it think thats 1200RPM or something, they are Noise Blocker PL2s
> I have the CPU - MB - RAM - and the 3 470s in the loop.


Your flow may be too restricted, so it might be time to consider adding another pump if you're not running multiple pumps?

I know Fermi are flamethrowers but if someone else is running it with the same OC and far cooler and your fans are maxxed out then maybe your flow is weak.









Excellent HAF X javanese.









Got my pump and two more EK Comps today.










Little by little I'm getting my loop together.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15347137*
> Your flow may be too restricted, so it might be time to consider adding another pump if you're not running multiple pumps?
> 
> I know Fermi are flamethrowers but if someone else is running it with the same OC and far cooler and your fans are maxxed out then maybe your flow is weak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I'd have to agree with Ceadder on your flow rate being a possible source of your temperature readings being the way they are. I just took a closer look at your loop and this is what I see:

_EDIT: I had the loop order backwards... fixed..._
Res -> Pump -> 3 x GTX470 -> MB Block -> External Rad -> Top Rad -> CPU Block -> Mem Block -> Res

Considering you are running Aquagrafx, they have more restrictive fin designs like this:







,

It would be interesting to see what your actual flow rate is through your loop with that many blocks and two rads all in one loop on the one pump.

For me, I noticed a pretty good reduction in the flow rate on my D5 pump going from an unrestrictive Danger Den block on my GTX 285 to the Koolance GTX 580 block I have now.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15347137*
> Your flow may be too restricted, so it might be time to consider adding another pump if you're not running multiple pumps?
> 
> I know Fermi are flamethrowers but if someone else is running it with the same OC and far cooler and your fans are maxxed out then maybe your flow is weak.


Should be easy to test:
take an IR thermometer, and check the tubing temps before and after each block, and the rad.
(EDIT: and a flowmeter)
Trying to solve problems without data is kinda hard.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I just went back and looked at the setup. I'm assuming that he's got ~450lph flow rate which is pretty good. But look at all those 90 degree fittings & 2 Radiators. I count five 90 degree fittings or L blocks(Rear Radiator) in the system and that's the ones I *can* see. That's a lot of restriction even for that DDC 350 pump and EK top.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cyberbeat

7 90* Fittings,
Loop goes:
PUMP > 3 GPUs > MB > Ext SR1 RAD > Internal EK RAD > CPU > RAM > RES
Just the one pump atm, and I may get a flow meter for my aquaero 5 when it arrives hopefully sometime this century, Have been waiting for a while now... PPCs posted it a month ago, has been holidaying in Brazil for the last 4 weeks :S


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Well my crappy EK quad radiator sprung a leak, so I tore her down yet again. Going to be putting her under the knife in a few weeks and powder coat.


----------



## wermad

^^^That sucks









I killed a brand dew RX480 using the wrong screws (tad bit too long














). I know your pain.


----------



## GhostDog99

i did the same thing with my rx 360 but it is really easy to fix


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Its funny tho, the leak was in the middle of the radiator, it was definitely not from a fan screw, I could probably fix it but the EK 480 is about equal performance to a RX240 so I dont think I'll both with EK radiators in the future. I'm kinda interested to see what the new XTX series perform, but from what I can tell they wont be cheap


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey ttoadd could you post a better pic of your Pump/Res setup. Kind of interested in doing something similar using dual ddc block and XSPC ddc Pump Res, if yours is set up how I think it is. Thanks.









Sucks about your 480 though.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## moa.

My first watercooling setup


----------



## Boyboyd

Looks damn good for a first setup.

Or any number of setups tbh.


----------



## KShirza1

your case = sex... uggg $600

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mopiko Laila*


Finally finished my wc dual loop setup, now sleeving time


----------



## shineon2011

Nothing fancy.


----------



## nzftw

those are some funny looking case feet.

ttoadd, your build looks sick and its good to see you got your tubing all 1 colour, you should try Spiderm0nkeys mod to cover up the I/O connections.


----------



## Los Hog

I think it looks great


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzftw;15358790*
> those are some funny looking case feet.
> 
> ttoadd, your build looks sick and its good to see you got your tubing all 1 colour, you should try Spiderm0nkeys mod to cover up the I/O connections.


use a permalink for that, that link does not work for me. (10 posts per page)


----------



## jellis142

It's just my OCD...

But it bothers me when I see so many available slots, and only one lone hard drive.







It's beautiful even though it makes my eye twitch a little!


----------



## willistech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shineon2011;15357677*
> Nothing fancy.


are those fans the orange Cougar ones? One pic they look orange the other they look white. nice build btw


----------



## Tnog

*Project DB Helix*
My first custom water loop build
One
Two
Three
Four


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tnog*


*Project DB Helix*
My first custom water loop build
One
Two
Three
Four


right click on the image and get the image URL and post the image actually here in this thread using the picture tool (or IMG tags) and I will add you to the list


----------



## shineon2011

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willistech*


are those fans the orange Cougar ones? One pic they look orange the other they look white. nice build btw










They are painted R4's


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hey ttoadd could you post a better pic of your Pump/Res setup. Kind of interested in doing something similar using dual ddc block and XSPC ddc Pump Res, if yours is set up how I think it is. Thanks.









Sucks about your 480 though.









~Ceadder










My setup is pretty ghetto bro lol, its sitting on the white tubing from the 240 rad, which in fact acts as a vibration damper aswell lol.

This setup is temporary as I'm gonna be breaking it down again, but basically the res is installed onto the pump top with a male to male BP fitting, I used an extender too in this case simply because I had a spare one lying around. I've used a snake rotary on the side outlet and that tubing goes down into the 360. Its hard to photograph in there to show you due to all the cables and ram block but I hope u know what I mean.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


ttoadd, your build looks sick and its good to see you got your tubing all 1 colour, you should try Spiderm0nkeys mod to cover up the I/O connections.


Thanks ftw


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Schaden

>_>


----------



## loop0001

lol smaller than the mousepad


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loop0001;15366448*
> lol smaller than the mousepad


haha the graphics card is almost double the length of the board


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden;15366337*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >_>


Post more when you can. I wanna see some more mitx rigs!


















Im still working on mine. Im thinking of universal chipset blocks as the Zotacs cant sustain 4.5 or > without throttling


----------



## ramkatral

Well, here's mine. I have a horrible case with no room, and no built in wire management at all. It's simply laid out crappy, and my wife won't let me buy a new case for awhile cause I've spent too much on hardware stuff. So I know it doesn't look as nice and fancy as some people's, but it runs very cold. I tried to use a little creativity to hide some of the wires, and I had to mount the radiator on top of the case on some legs.


----------



## t-ramp

Looks good.









I ordered some fittings and tubing today... green tubing will match absolutely nothing, but I don't care.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Schaden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sndstream*


Post more when you can. I wanna see some more mitx rigs!

Im still working on mine. Im thinking of universal chipset blocks as the Zotacs cant sustain 4.5 or > without throttling










Yeah I was going to get the koolance mvr plate and probably koolance choppet block. Just trying to work out a way that wont cost 70 dollars shipping to aus. One thing that has come apparent is I need more 45 degree adapters. Your rig looks sick as man hopefully mine will cometogether


----------



## sndstream

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Schaden*


Yeah I was going to get the koolance mvr plate and probably koolance choppet block. Just trying to work out a way that wont cost 70 dollars shipping to aus. One thing that has come apparent is I need more 45 degree adapters. Your rig looks sick as man hopefully mine will cometogether


That'd be slick. I looked over at Koolance's stuff. So would you use something like the mvr-40? I have a dead z68 wifi and I think tonight I'll pull the heat sink off to see what's what.


----------



## ramkatral

I think in the mean time, until I can buy a new case, I may bust out the dremel and some parts and add a lil box and some holes in the side to run the wires into and hide away. Think it's worth it? I like the look of the outside of the case, I just HATE the inside.


----------



## Schaden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sndstream*


That'd be slick. I looked over at Koolance's stuff. So would you use something like the mvr-40? I have a dead z68 wifi and I think tonight I'll pull the heat sink off to see what's what.


Yeah the mvr 40. And I think its the 68mm plate, I measured theres less then .5 of a mm between the caps and where the block would go xD


----------



## Ceadderman

Does anyone know what the height is of the outlet fitting on the XSPC ddcRes and the top of the XSPC ddc pump blocks?








--->









I've alread figured out that I plan to have two pumps. One with the Res and one with the top. But I'm wanting to know if I can run BitsP QDs' to T fitting from both so I can connect my drain hose to the middle of the T fitting. My question is would it be a level fit or would I have to add a couple 90 degree fittings to get the Res clear straight across access up and over the top of the block which will have a 90.









Or would I have to run an L mount on the block pump to get a straighter fitment?


















~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

from the top of the outlet port to the top of the ddc top? ~4.15mm


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


from the top of the outlet port to the top of the ddc top? ~4.15mm










You sure that's not CM not MM werm? ~4.15mm seems a bit on the thin side imho. Although 4.15cm would be too thick as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

you will need to use a little bit of tubing or rotaries because the fittings do not come out of it perpendicular. there is a slight angle up on the outlet barb.


----------



## wermad




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you will need to use a little bit of tubing or rotaries because the fittings do not come out of it perpendicular. there is a slight angle up on the outlet barb.


Yeah I saw that too. But I plan on using two of these







and hopefully there will be enough play in them to allow a pretty straight shot to the block. Although I am considering Koolance SLi/XFire fittings instead.









@werm... Hahah, I'm talking overall height with the pumps bro. I only need that measurement for the Res not the block.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yeah I saw that too. But I plan on using two of these







and hopefully there will be enough play in them to allow a pretty straight shot to the block.









~Ceadder










those actually have to be lined up pretty straight to seal correctly. perhaps you should look into one of the dual pump tops with the res attachment option.

edit:


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@werm... Hahah, I'm talking overall height with the pumps bro. I only need that measurement for the Res not the block.









~Ceadder


















At least I got to use my caliper









edit: go with stubby barbs and get some tube in between. Are you planning dual loops or in series?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


those actually have to be lined up pretty straight to seal correctly. perhaps you should look into one of the dual pump tops with the res attachment option.

edit:











I would except that I would have to figure out something else for drainage and the Res portion would be another $25 on top of the $57 dollars for the dual pump v2 block. Although it would all be EK.









Haha you







'ed me.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I would except that I would have to figure out something else for drainage and the Res portion would be another $25 on top of the $57 dollars for the dual pump v2 block. Although it would all be EK.









Haha you







'ed me.









~Ceadder










you could still use a T fitting on the outlet from that with a QDC.

honestly though, I find it easy enough to just pull a tube off and drain the loop that way. that is what I have done in every loop I have ever put together and taken apart.


----------



## wermad

I was looking into this one from koolance










http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=980


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

^ That's actually pretty solid. Just used one of those a few months ago on a friend's build. Honestly one of the best choices for a single pump loop if you're trying to keep everything together.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you could still use a T fitting on the outlet from that with a QDC.

honestly though, I find it easy enough to just pull a tube off and drain the loop that way. that is what I have done in every loop I have ever put together and taken apart.


The problem I see with that dual ddc block is it's version 2. Neither FCPU or PPCs has the correct diameter tube in stock or the correct single link ring to make the external thread change to internally threaded for the tube to fit properly. So I'd have to buy direct unless someone here has what I'd need to work with. Looks like I'm gonna do that top but hunting for parts is gonna be a bish. I can still connect a T fitting to that with a m/m rotary fitting though.









I'd rather have a drainage tube though. Just pick my case up set it on a 1x12 cut to the width of the tub, pull the hose and drain it without mess. My OCD don't like mess.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tnog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


right click on the image and get the image URL and post the image actually here in this thread using the picture tool (or IMG tags) and I will add you to the list










Not sure if you saw but I edited my post









Quote:


----------



## Liighthead

^ wow nice


----------



## RussianJ

The stock fan is still useful for something. Until the board either gets a block or move to SB that stupid fan is there.










Custom Rad/Pump box with 4 intake fans, rads all exhaust only



















Total package










Not sure why the tube comes out as orange, in person it is a red/dark pink


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden;15371373*
> Yeah I was going to get the koolance mvr plate and probably koolance choppet block. Just trying to work out a way that wont cost 70 dollars shipping to aus. One thing that has come apparent is I need more 45 degree adapters. Your rig looks sick as man hopefully mine will cometogether


Here's the pics of the chipset and vregs. I dunno if we'll be able to fit a plate in such a small area. It's realllllllly tight quarters.....


----------



## Schaden

When o to.ish work i will make a mock up with the same dimensions and see if it fits. When I measured it only just fitted. What are your elsewhere with the board so far btw?


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden;15377363*
> When o to.ish work i will make a mock up with the same dimensions and see if it fits. When I measured it only just fitted. What are your elsewhere with the board so far btw?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden;15377363*
> When I measured it only just fitted. What are your elsewhere with the board so far btw?


Im not sure I'm following you? The pics were from my fried board. I blew it by raising the bios threshold amperage which was a bad idea. I set multiplier to 50 and vc to 1.48. I booted up windows, ran new instructions ibt and all I heard was a little snapping noise and then went dead. I raised amperage to 118 as I was getting PO'd at the throttling and had a moment of po'd insanity lol......My existing mitx rig is all done for now but I'm going to revamp some things after I start and finish my case labs build. I think I posted pics maybe 3 weeks ago. Ill toss up a few pics that may have not been uploaded.

As for the heat plate I bet it'll need a custom cut but maybe not. The thermal tape is maybe 1/5 of an inch by maybe 2- 2.5 inches (Im just eyeballing) If this section can be cooled better I'm hoping for less throttling but I'll take stable 4.5. right now Im at 4.4. I'll take a screenie of some of the stats.



















Small pics sorry but the results kinda suck anyways. My max temps only reach mid 60's on the cores and it throttles back to default speed after 5-10 seconds of running oc'd. It doesn't even run the set multipler of 45 in this case as it's throttled down as well. Bios has crappy options as you cannot oc when you have speedstep off. You can oc if turbo is off. Theres no LLC either







Overall Im okay with it for now as it's not my main rig and it was fun to build and still isnt a real slouch. I may throw an insanely powerful delta fan over the whole rig and then do some more benches to see if it helps. There's always a possibility Im not clocking this the best way but Im usually pretty good at dialing things in. The mobo just may not be able to deal with the demands.

This is where Im at. Forgive my reposts.


































































Still need to fix bluray player bezel and route the front fascia and keep my greasy fingers off the black......


----------



## Schaden

dual pumptop, so sexy. Sorry about the bad writing was on my phone and didnt check. I was asking what your experiances with the board are like (overclocking, temps ect). So so was it due to heat that your board fried?


----------



## Skoobs

holy hell, sndstream... thats slick.


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden;15378468*
> dual pumptop, so sexy. Sorry about the bad writing was on my phone and didnt check. I was asking what your experiances with the board are like (overclocking, temps ect). So so was it due to heat that your board fried?


Im pretty sure it died because I set the max amperage more than 98 but I cant be completely sure. This setup is supposed to run at 4.5 but in reality it runs around 4.2-4.4 and only for short bursts. You really dont notices the throttling too much though. Temps don't go beyond 60 which is weird since it still throttles back even with relatively normal but kind of high temps. Ram was a nobrainer to deal with as well as the 560 ti2gb. I have some crysis 2 benchmarks I can throw up as thats what I mainly play. For the most part dx11, high res textures, 1920x1080 gives me 50's on ultra 60 fps extreme on most maps. Im hoping for a zotac bios update soon but no word yet........


----------



## Ceadderman

überlegen secsy *HTPC!!!*









I hate bleu so you can say that is rather one impressive little machine.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## derickwm

Have had WC'ing since June...forgot to post here.










Pump is at RMA now, will post back later when it comes back. Use to have a 6990 and a 5970 under water but...that situation has since changed


----------



## Ken1649

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm;15378671*
> Have had WC'ing since June...forgot to post here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump is at RMA now, will post back later when it comes back. Use to have a 6990 and a 5970 under water but...that situation has since changed


The MARS could use some water there


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream;15378155*
> Im not sure I'm following you? The pics were from my fried board. I blew it by raising the bios threshold amperage which was a bad idea. I set multiplier to 50 and vc to 1.48. I booted up windows, ran new instructions ibt and all I heard was a little snapping noise and then went dead. I raised amperage to 118 as I was getting PO'd at the throttling and had a moment of po'd insanity lol......My existing mitx rig is all done for now but I'm going to revamp some things after I start and finish my case labs build. I think I posted pics maybe 3 weeks ago. Ill toss up a few pics that may have not been uploaded.
> 
> As for the heat plate I bet it'll need a custom cut but maybe not. The thermal tape is maybe 1/5 of an inch by maybe 2- 2.5 inches (Im just eyeballing) If this section can be cooled better I'm hoping for less throttling but I'll take stable 4.5. right now Im at 4.4. I'll take a screenie of some of the stats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small pics sorry but the results kinda suck anyways. My max temps only reach mid 60's on the cores and it throttles back to default speed after 5-10 seconds of running oc'd. It doesn't even run the set multipler of 45 in this case as it's throttled down as well. Bios has crappy options as you cannot oc when you have speedstep off. You can oc if turbo is off. Theres no LLC either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall Im okay with it for now as it's not my main rig and it was fun to build and still isnt a real slouch. I may throw an insanely powerful delta fan over the whole rig and then do some more benches to see if it helps. There's always a possibility Im not clocking this the best way but Im usually pretty good at dialing things in. The mobo just may not be able to deal with the demands.
> 
> This is where Im at. Forgive my reposts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to fix bluray player bezel and route the front fascia and keep my greasy fingers off the black......


Wheres the Rad? Cause that is awesome. very inspiring.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ken1649;15378786*
> The MARS could use some water there


I wish :/ I contacted a member about a week ago who supposedly does custom waterblocks... haven't heard back yet.


----------



## .::CARLO::.

haf 932 inverse mood..


----------



## Indulgence

reposting










w/o the bottom cover



















happy gaming


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm;15378808*
> I wish :/ I contacted a member about a week ago who supposedly does custom waterblocks... haven't heard back yet.


Is he the guy who makes those 100% copper SR-2 blocks. He's incredible.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence;15379281*
> reposting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> w/o the bottom cover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> happy gaming


I normally hate the look of the HAF.
But I can stand to look at that.
GOOD JOB!








+1


----------



## Indulgence

*@ MOUNTAINDEWMADOSCAR :*

thanks for appreciating man


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Going SLI










New EK 580 EN




























This one doesn't uses plastic standoffs that were a pain to install, now you screw the standoffs into the block.
Benching ATM, will mount the block next week .


----------



## willistech

Got my Gentle Typhoons, MCRES, tubing, new killcoil, and XSPC Razor GTX580 block today. Down to just needing a pump and more fittings. soooooooo close


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sndstream*


Im not sure I'm following you? The pics were from my fried board. I blew it by raising the bios threshold amperage which was a bad idea. I set multiplier to 50 and vc to 1.48. I booted up windows, ran new instructions ibt and all I heard was a little snapping noise and then went dead. I raised amperage to 118 as I was getting PO'd at the throttling and had a moment of po'd insanity lol......My existing mitx rig is all done for now but I'm going to revamp some things after I start and finish my case labs build. I think I posted pics maybe 3 weeks ago. Ill toss up a few pics that may have not been uploaded.

As for the heat plate I bet it'll need a custom cut but maybe not. The thermal tape is maybe 1/5 of an inch by maybe 2- 2.5 inches (Im just eyeballing) If this section can be cooled better I'm hoping for less throttling but I'll take stable 4.5. right now Im at 4.4. I'll take a screenie of some of the stats.

Small pics sorry but the results kinda suck anyways. My max temps only reach mid 60's on the cores and it throttles back to default speed after 5-10 seconds of running oc'd. It doesn't even run the set multipler of 45 in this case as it's throttled down as well. Bios has crappy options as you cannot oc when you have speedstep off. You can oc if turbo is off. Theres no LLC either







Overall Im okay with it for now as it's not my main rig and it was fun to build and still isnt a real slouch. I may throw an insanely powerful delta fan over the whole rig and then do some more benches to see if it helps. There's always a possibility Im not clocking this the best way but Im usually pretty good at dialing things in. The mobo just may not be able to deal with the demands.

This is where Im at. Forgive my reposts.


















Still need to fix bluray player bezel and route the front fascia and keep my greasy fingers off the black......


That thing is awesome!! Great job.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *.::CARLO::.*


haf 932 inverse mood.










Very nice. I take it you have the psu now at the top? Looks you flipped the mb an the back panel? Kinda sucks that you lost the space for the 360mm rad on top but the rig looks awesome non-the-less.


----------



## masonkian




----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RussianJ*


The stock fan is still useful for something. Until the board either gets a block or move to SB that stupid fan is there.











I feel your pain, I can't find no Rampage III Extreme blocks available anywhere. I have to sit a 120mm fan on top of my video card just to cool the mosfet and the X58 northbridge.


----------



## Ceadderman

You mean a block like this?










Performance-PCs' has them in stock. Although they are out of the Acetal/Nickel blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## Los Hog

@kamikaze tres cool


----------



## gumbie

Here's a little happy snap of mine, Please excuse the crappy phone pic!


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Indulgence*


reposting











As a HAF922 owner... I love what you did with your case and see you used the top overlay panel idea







. Your bottom cover is awesome.

I'm currently pondering a SLI GTX 580 setup. Of course that involves more money, more cooling and more work. Lots of ideas on how to redo my loop and keep everything internal but I think I'll hold off a little until I'm sure I want to dive down that rabbit hole.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gumbie*


Here's a little happy snap of mine, Please excuse the crappy phone pic!




I like it. Cool place to put the res showing it off a bit.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*


As a HAF922 owner... I love what you did with your case and see you used the top overlay panel idea







. Your bottom cover is awesome.

I'm currently pondering a SLI GTX 580 setup. Of course that involves more money, more cooling and more work. Lots of ideas on how to redo my loop and keep everything internal but I think I'll hold off a little until I'm sure I want to dive down that rabbit hole.


Yeah wish I could do something like that for the top of my 932, except that the 932 has a dimpled top right down the middle of the grill.









But I really like his attention to detail with the painted top. Even the Cooler Master Logo looks spec. That is a really sweet whiteout case. I think that looks better than any white Fractal case. Almost looks like a Storm Trooper in the right light.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kevingreenbmx

1000 members!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's it guys, the thread is big enough, time to throw in the towel and stop updating...

just kidding







Thanks everyone for making this thread such a success!


----------



## saer

Aww Yeahhhhh !


----------



## u3b3rg33k

From this:









To this:









And yes, there is so little clearance between the 6950 and the drive cage that I almost couldn't fit it in.


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar;15378800*
> Wheres the Rad? Cause that is awesome. very inspiring.


Here's the shot of the rad and some pshop tweaks. I'm forever forgetting howto use my camera and pshop elements. You can see once you start adding sata cables and such it gets cramped really quick.


























It's a HWLabs 120 stealth rad using a NB and Gelid push pull setup. Once I route out a nice square on the front the intake should be better. The front fascia is aluminum so it's gonna take some skill and wd40 to get the cuts right even with a jig.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

u3b3rg33k, your water cooling stuff didn't even change!









put a block on that card!


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15386472*
> 1000 members!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> That's it guys, the thread is big enough, time to throw in the towel and stop updating...
> 
> just kidding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for making this thread such a success!


All 1000 of us think that low temps are a turn on lol.......


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;15387177*


Cute tubing.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15387338*
> updated
> 
> u3b3rg33k, your water cooling stuff didn't even change!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> put a block on that card!


Lol it sure didn't!









Idk why I would. 55c 24/7 folding seems fine for a GPU. 50% fan is barely audible. Not when the server next to it looks like this:









I did pick up a new 120mm rad though. I'm going to put that in the drive bay intake and have 2x80 + 1x120 rads soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;15388140*
> Cute tubing.


6mm ID FTW. I do have the entire board under water.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Just an update of mine. Cleaned out all the blocks today and got some new tubing in for it. Must say I love white tubing but this blue tubing looks SOOOO good. Get my fan controller and some more heatsinks for my gpu's. Can't wait!










*edit* To anyone with a rasa kit or XSPC rad. Just go ahead and clean it like you are supposed to. Me being an impatient rookie decided that I didn't really need to. Would have made my breakdown much easier today if I hadn't had to clean the flux out my block.


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream;15378155*


Truly beautiful. Definitely up in the ranks of MDPC


----------



## spitty13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;15388314*
> Just an update of mine. Cleaned out all the blocks today and got some new tubing in for it. Must say I love white tubing but this blue tubing looks SOOOO good. Get my fan controller and some more heatsinks for my gpu's. Can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* To anyone with a rasa kit or XSPC rad. Just go ahead and clean it like you are supposed to. Me being an impatient rookie decided that I didn't really need to. Would have made my breakdown much easier today if I hadn't had to clean the flux out my block.


What type of tubing is that?


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;15388314*
> Just an update of mine. Cleaned out all the blocks today and got some new tubing in for it. Must say I love white tubing but this blue tubing looks SOOOO good. Get my fan controller and some more heatsinks for my gpu's. Can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* To anyone with a rasa kit or XSPC rad. Just go ahead and clean it like you are supposed to. Me being an impatient rookie decided that I didn't really need to. Would have made my breakdown much easier today if I hadn't had to clean the flux out my block.


Looks good









Did you notice any flow difference using the swiftech bridge?


----------



## u3b3rg33k

MURDoctrine, Love the illumination.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Yes so far I think its hurt my flow with the rasa pump. I really think I'm reaching its limit. About to get a MCP655 and new res. Temps SEEM to be about 4-5C higher under load with games like the witcher 2. But CPU temps are the same. Just cleaned it all and right now seems about like it was. Seems to have dropped about 2-3C since i redid the loop tonight. /shrug


----------



## kamikaze_

Bridges like that, I'm not exactly sure how they're internally designed for the flow direction, but it may seem like the water that went over the heat spreaders inside the blocks, out of the block, into the bridge and just cycles water that already went over the heat spreader BACK into your block. I would prefer a "one way in - one way out" loop.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spitty13;15388661*
> What type of tubing is that?


That is the primochill primoflex uv blue. Its a lot darker in person and really gorgeous imo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;15389187*
> Bridges like that, I'm not exactly sure how they're internally designed for the flow direction, but it may seem like the water that went over the heat spreaders inside the blocks, out of the block, into the bridge and just cycles water that already went over the heat spreader BACK into your block. I would prefer a "one way in - one way out" loop.


Yeah but when you go with universal gpu blocks you have to work around problems







. Right now temps seem to be manageble since I reseat the blocks and used a differen't tim application method. They got moved around when I installed the bridge last time so I feel the tim's seating messed up. Right now top card is idling at 32C and bottom 29-30C. Hits about 43-46C loads on top and 40-42C on bottom card. These loads are about 3-4C higher than I can recall when they were in series. But I have also OC'ed the cards since then so it could be from the OC.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;15387177*
> *schnippage*
> ...es, there is so little clearance between the 6950 and the drive cage that I almost couldn't fit it in.


Hey man can you turn your drives 180degrees? If so I think you would have a much cleaner looking system with the SATA cables a little more well hidden.









@sndstream... Makes me wonder why they don't make shorter SATA cables for HTPC work. Would make thinks a whole lot more simpler that way.









@MURDoctrine... where did you get that SLi bridge? It doesn't seem to be available in the States yet.























:wheee:1000 members YES!
































~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15389474*
> *snip*
> @MURDoctrine... where did you get that SLi bridge? It doesn't seem to be available in the States yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :wheee:1000 members YES!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I ordered it straight from swiftech. Here you go.

http://www.swiftech.com/slicrossfirebridge.aspx


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream;15387321*
> Here's the shot of the rad and some pshop tweaks. I'm forever forgetting howto use my camera and pshop elements. You can see once you start adding sata cables and such it gets cramped really quick.
> 
> It's a HWLabs 120 stealth rad using a NB and Gelid push pull setup. Once I route out a nice square on the front the intake should be better. The front fascia is aluminum so it's gonna take some skill and wd40 to get the cuts right even with a jig.


yeah my case is bigger then yours so it shouldnt be as bad, I have a fair amount of cutting ahead of me, I will upload some pics tonight if the rest of my fittings arrive. However I am yet to order rad/res/blocks. I am thinking I should watercool the ram just for the sake of cooling everything xD. but with all the restriction I dont think my ek 4.0 will survive. Thoughts?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;15389584*
> I ordered it straight from swiftech. Here you go.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/slicrossfirebridge.aspx


Okay kewl thanks.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15389842*
> Okay kewl thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Best way to go if you have uni gpu blocks


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden;15389612*
> yeah my case is bigger then yours so it shouldnt be as bad, I have a fair amount of cutting ahead of me, I will upload some pics tonight if the rest of my fittings arrive. However I am yet to order rad/res/blocks. I am thinking I should watercool the ram just for the sake of cooling everything xD. but with all the restriction I dont think my ek 4.0 will survive. Thoughts?


Cool looking fwd to seeing ur progress. I only watercooled the ram for the e-bling status and the bitspower block wasn't too expensive. These Corsair Doms are 2133 @ 1.5 so I can't really see OC'ng them any further than locking in 100 on the bclk. I don't know much about other pumps than the 355 and 655 but I couldn't imagine a ram waterblock causing too much restriction. I dunno what tubing ur gonna use but I had to break away from the typical 3/4od as there's no way I could make tight bends. I used Master Kleer 1/2 od and it has played pretty nice with the loop bends. Id throw up a post speculating your loop and pump and ask some of these guys as there's bound to be someone with expreienced in the pump your using.....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Best way to go if you have uni gpu blocks










Shipping for just one block though is insane. ~$6.50 for the block. Cost less to ship that EK block to you werm. I'll still get it but wow that's just nuts.









~Ceadder


----------



## Schaden

Yeah I am pretty sure the block should do okay.I am using 7/16 tubing on my 1/2 barbs so I can do away with zip ties. Yeah the ram was just for the bling, i wanted to use the aquacomputer nickel ram block one but again cant find it anywhere but the aquacomputer store. Good news is a local store is going to throw in my request with there next shipment from koolance which means much cheaper shipping only draw back is it will be middle of november.

anywho just leak testing the cpu / graphics then I will throw up some temps later.


















EDIT: cpu cores max temp was 62 degrees and for the graphics card 41. The idle temp for the cpu was around 35 degrees and 35 aswell for the graphics card.

Pretty pleased with myself right now.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*


From this:

To this:









And yes, there is so little clearance between the 6950 and the drive cage that I almost couldn't fit it in.


Can you not turn those hard drives around and run the cables in the back? It would look much better.


----------



## t-ramp

Apparently my fittings and tubing are out for delivery.









Can't wait to get my loop set back up in my 902. Too bad I have to go to a wedding tonight. And work tomorrow at 7.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Shipping for just one block though is insane. ~$6.50 for the block. Cost less to ship that EK block to you werm. I'll still get it but wow that's just nuts.









~Ceadder










Ppcs.com has the dual link bridges. Send them an email and ask when they'll be getting different ones. But, if I recall, you'll be running two 5770 cards, right?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ord=HW-MNFD-2X

edit: the first one is for one slot in between and the other one for two slots in between the two pcie slots occupied by your cards.


----------



## saer

Got all the new hardware installed









Swapped out the RX240 for an RX360


















Clearance shot









New tube routing









990X now rests beneath the cpu block









Grabbed another 580 Hydro Copper









Managed to get my hands on one of the $47.99 (normally $180) X-Fi Titanium HD's from the Best Buy sale












































Better shot of the HAF 932 Black Edition side panel


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Ppcs.com has the dual link bridges. Send them an email and ask when they'll be getting different ones. But, if I recall, you'll be running two 5770 cards, right?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ord=HW-MNFD-2X

edit: the first one is for one slot in between and the other one for two slots in between the two pcie slots occupied by your cards.


Yup I'll be running two 5770s'. Unfortunately for me, I want the white Triple Bridge so I won't have to paint that fugly chrome and because my Tubing is white and my Comps are Black. Total Storm Trooper look would be awesome for my Mod. I'd mod that Bridge to say "Oil" if I could.









@saer... hey bruh how come your dual cooling your loop in serial? Also I'm pretty sure your HDDs' can be mounted on the 5.25 chassis out of sight. You can mount them lengthwise on the chassis along the Right side and put some sort of vibration dampener under them to keep them running properly. If I do two 360s' in my 932 that's what I would do. In fact that's the reason I got your white PC tubing. Was cause I need MOAR tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## ramkatral

@Saer... You just forced me to change my boxers.... Just sayin'...


----------



## The_ocho

Nothing too special, but I like it


























Heres my thread about Laser etching the OCN logo into the window 
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...er-etcher.html

What do you all think?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_ocho*


Nothing too special, but I like it

*snip*

Heres my thread about Laser etching the OCN logo into the window 
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...er-etcher.html

What do you all think?


Looking good.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ramkatral

Okay, seeing some of these other setups got me determined. Since I am stuck with this case for a bit, I put some serious effort into managing the wires.... And it came out great, I think. Here's the updated pics.


----------



## Ceadderman

MUCH Better.









~Ceadder


----------



## kieran13

here is my first build its not pretty since my UV light got broken in postage i will re post a new pic when the new UV light arrives


----------



## sndstream

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Schaden*


Yeah I am pretty sure the block should do okay.I am using 7/16 tubing on my 1/2 barbs so I can do away with zip ties. Yeah the ram was just for the bling, i wanted to use the aquacomputer nickel ram block one but again cant find it anywhere but the aquacomputer store. Good news is a local store is going to throw in my request with there next shipment from koolance which means much cheaper shipping only draw back is it will be middle of november.

anywho just leak testing the cpu / graphics then I will throw up some temps later.

















EDIT: cpu cores max temp was 62 degrees and for the graphics card 41. The idle temp for the cpu was around 35 degrees and 35 aswell for the graphics card.

Pretty pleased with myself right now.


Looks good, keep plugging away!


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Can you not turn those hard drives around and run the cables in the back? It would look much better.


Not without some serious modification. There's so little clearance back there it's not funny. Just getting the front panel cables to clear two of the drives was a minor chore.

That aluminum panel you can see above the top drive is practically touching the end of the drive.


----------



## sndstream

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saer*


Got all the new hardware installed









Swapped out the RX240 for an RX360


















Clearance shot









New tube routing









990X now rests beneath the cpu block 









Grabbed another 580 Hydro Copper









Managed to get my hands on one of the $47.99 (normally $180) X-Fi Titanium HD's from the Best Buy sale












































Better shot of the HAF 932 Black Edition side panel










Slick color scheme! Those links look badass


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden;15391111*
> Yeah I am pretty sure the block should do okay.I am using 7/16 tubing on my 1/2 barbs so I can do away with zip ties. Yeah the ram was just for the bling, i wanted to use the aquacomputer nickel ram block one but again cant find it anywhere but the aquacomputer store. Good news is a local store is going to throw in my request with there next shipment from koolance which means much cheaper shipping only draw back is it will be middle of november.
> 
> anywho just leak testing the cpu / graphics then I will throw up some temps later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: cpu cores max temp was 62 degrees and for the graphics card 41. The idle temp for the cpu was around 35 degrees and 35 aswell for the graphics card.
> 
> Pretty pleased with myself right now.


make sure you put some clamp, zip tie anything to hold the tubing, dont be fool and leave it without, i had see some members here found they RiG under water , too bad.


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;15404972*
> make sure you put some clamp, zip tie anything to hold the tubing, dont be fool and leave it without, i had see some members here found they RiG under water , too bad.


I have been running without clamps ect for a long time on multipul loops. the only way I can get the tubing off is with a surgical knife or pliers. I have heard of some people experiancing it if there is alot of force on the tubing eg: tight bend + the constant change in temperature but I feel quite confident. 7/16th on 1/2" barbs seems fine to me. But I may end up having to use clamps as I will have some tight bends.

-Schaden


----------



## Willhemmens

Before you run without any clamps, zip ties or anything on your barbs, take a read of this.

This is probably my Favourite quote from the thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svthomas;13895993*
> Always, ALWAYS use clamps, compression, or zip-ties, even it is 7/16 tube over 1/2 barbs, always use something.
> 
> The tube seems tight when you pull on it, but that's just it, you are pulling on it, which causes the hose diameter to lessen and tighten over the barb, making it seem nice and tight, and sound. But here is the thing, when your hose pops off it is isn't being pulled on, rather, the water pressure is pushing on the inside walls of the tube--which is now warm and soft from the running system--expanding the diameter of the tube, which then allows it pop off of the barb easier. So, in order to combat this, you need a clamp, compression fitting, or zip-tie, etc. to keep the hose nice and tight over your barb, so regardless of how soft the tube gets, how much pressure is inside the hose pushing the walls outward, the tube will stay just as tight over the barb as day one, preventing it from easily coming off due to these types of circumstances.


If you decide to run without anything, it your choice but I thought I'd give a little input.

Also if you don't like the look of clamps or zip ties, use Compressions like me!

In other news, here's my PC with the Aquatuning Aqua girl.










I won best PC at i43, 2300 attended, biggest LAN in the UK ever.


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer;15399923*
> Got all the new hardware installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better shot of the HAF 932 Black Edition side panel


Mother of God, you sir are ready for Battlefield 3 at 4k resolutions.

Nice Build!


----------



## jellis142

At 4k, he'd have to start using system memory to store the textures









But Saer, you have one of the nicest HAF's I've ever seen!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## 12Cores

Replaced my CM 690 with a NZXT Phantom.


----------



## derickwm

Aw just realized I'm member 999... just one off of the 1000 mark


----------



## num1son

Question for those with experience:

Will my single MCP655 be enough to push through:

EK HF Supreme
2x EK 580 blocks
2x MCR320-QP-K
XSPX RX240
mini tube res. (probably EK)

?

Thanks!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son;15409928*
> Question for those with experience:
> 
> Will my single MCP655 be enough to push through:
> 
> EK HF Supreme
> 2x EK 580 blocks
> 2x MCR320-QP-K
> XSPX RX240
> mini tube res. (probably EK)
> 
> ?
> 
> Thanks!


A second MCR320


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15410377*
> A second MCR320


lol was thinking about it....


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son;15409928*
> Question for those with experience:
> 
> Will my single MCP655 be enough to push through:
> 
> EK HF Supreme
> 2x EK 580 blocks
> 2x MCR320-QP-K
> XSPX RX240
> mini tube res. (probably EK)
> 
> ?
> 
> Thanks!


I got my 655 pushing though:

HK 3.0
2x EK 470 blocks
2x G-changer 480mm v1.2
250mm RES

Its works fine.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife;15410430*
> I got my 655 pushing though:
> 
> HK 3.0
> 2x EK 470 blocks
> 2x G-changer 480mm v1.2
> 250mm RES
> 
> Its works fine.


So I should be good then too.








Rep+


----------



## derickwm

What kind of pumps are people recommending for SR-2/3 builds? Quad gpu, dual cpu, 3xEX360 rads etc...


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm;15411181*
> What kind of pumps are people recommending for SR-2/3 builds? Quad gpu, dual cpu, 3xEX360 rads etc...


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6190/ex-pmp-54/Swiftech_MCP655_12v_Water_Pump_w_Speed_Control_and_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html


----------



## derickwm

Oh that's the pump I have now. Nice. Ok. I was slightly nervous that I may have to drop $300+ on those dual pump systems. Thanks dood.


----------



## cyberbeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son;15409928*
> Question for those with experience:
> 
> Will my single MCP655 be enough to push through:
> 
> EK HF Supreme
> 2x EK 580 blocks
> 2x MCR320-QP-K
> XSPX RX240
> mini tube res. (probably EK)
> 
> ?
> 
> Thanks!


I'm using just a 655/D5 to push through 3X GPU Blocks, 1 CPU, 1 RAM, 1 Motherboard, and 2 480 rads. not sure on my flow rate though


----------



## Mentalist

Small clean and simple with external cooling.



Check this link for more pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15413319*
> Small clean and simple with external cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> Check this link for more pics.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


----------



## jmcu

Here is my 655 with mod top pumping through 3 gpu's, mobo, cpu a 480 rad, 92mm rad and 2 EK 240 rads in bottom. The flow coming back to the res is pretty good. That pump rocks and is very quiet.


----------



## Ceadderman

Kinda overdid it a bit with the Carbon tape but it looks very nice. Love how you went with white tubing in the double Helix Res. That's sweet.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;15405731*
> Before you run without any clamps, zip ties or anything on your barbs, take a read of this.
> 
> This is probably my Favourite quote from the thread:
> 
> If you decide to run without anything, it your choice but I thought I'd give a little input.
> 
> Also if you don't like the look of clamps or zip ties, use Compressions like me!
> 
> In other news, here's my PC with the Aquatuning Aqua girl.


Valid points on all fronts, thank you. I just really dont like the look of compressions. I will keep my eyes out for some super tiny ass zip ties or somthing


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden;15414794*
> Valid points on all fronts, thank you. I just really dont like the look of compressions. I will keep my eyes out for some super tiny ass zip ties or somthing


Tiny zip ties FTW!


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh a good backpressure valve should negate any need for clamps with 7/16 hose on 1/2" fittings.

But if you looked in that thread that guy had quite a bit of Danger Den barbs. All of them Free most likely.

Like the old adage goes... "You get what you pay for". With all the different metals corosion will happen even with distilled, killcoil and biocide. Shouldn't happen but I'd bet dollars to donuts there was something aluminum in that loop.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## FireAroundTheBrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15413319*
> Small clean and simple with external cooling.
> 
> [!img]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6119/6249785498_fe5efbc6be_b.jpg[/img]
> 
> Check this link for more pics.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


Nice!







!


----------



## Bilvo

First post, my Danger Den Tower 29


----------



## FireAroundTheBrim

That looks amazing!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15413319*
> Small clean and simple with external cooling.


This honestly put me at a loss for words.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmcu;15414529*
> Here is my 655 with mod top pumping through 3 gpu's, mobo, cpu a 480 rad, 92mm rad and 2 EK 240 rads in bottom. The flow coming back to the res is pretty good. That pump rocks and is very quiet.


Dude nice touch with carbon tape, I can only imagine how long that took to cut out as precisely as you did lol


----------



## KaRLiToS

You have a watercooled power supply? Is it worth it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15413319*
> Small clean and simple with external cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> Check this link for more pics.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15413319*
> Small clean and simple with external cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> Check this link for more pics.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


Very nice mate. That's the first time I've seen the watercooled Koolance psu in action









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bilvo;15415560*
> First post, my Danger Den Tower 29


Which coolant or dye are you running mate?


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15416668*
> Which coolant or dye are you running mate?


Looks like red tubing with UV green coolant.


----------



## Bilvo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15416668*
> Which coolant or dye are you running mate?


It's Danger Den Red tubing with Mayhem Yellow/Green dye.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bilvo;15417356*
> It's Danger Den Red tubing with Mayhem Yellow/Green dye.


Just the coolant, thanks









I'm testing Feser uv green and Mayhems uv green dyes and so far I'm really digging the feser under uv light. I should be getting Mayhems uv green-yellow soon so I can compare it to the Feser.

edit- check out my review/test:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1142513-mayhems-uv-green-dye-vs-feser.html


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15413319*
> Small clean and simple with external cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> Check this link for more pics.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


Great lookin rig man... Very clean..









What kind of cards/blocks are you using??


----------



## Mentalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15417854*
> Great lookin rig man... Very clean..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of cards/blocks are you using??


Thanks,

I still use my old 295 cards with EK fullcover waterblocks.


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15417920*
> Thanks,
> 
> I still use my old 295 cards with EK fullcover waterblocks.


u put a block on each side or somethin?? (sry if dumb question)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15417989*
> u put a block on each side or somethin?? (sry if dumb question)


Looks like its the single pcb gtx 295.


----------



## Mentalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15417989*
> u put a block on each side or somethin?? (sry if dumb question)


Yes,they are sandwich blocks big and heavy one for the GPU's and the other for the ram/volt regulators all original from EK.

(only for the single PCB models)


----------



## BALAST

Your PC case must weight at least 30kg! OMG


----------



## Opp47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15418037*
> Yes,they are sandwich blocks big and heavy one for the GPU's and the other for the ram/volt regulators all original from EK.
> 
> (only for the single PCB models)


That's awesome... It looks gorgeous..


----------



## Mentalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BALAST;15418064*
> Your PC case must weight at least 30kg! OMG


It weight 26kg


----------



## Ceadderman

Damn good guess. Considering he was +4kilos.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## n0n44m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15418090*
> It weight 26kg


very very awesome kerel, pretty much exactly what I want to do for my next build (smaller case, all components watercooled, big external rad)

you've got *2* MO-RA 3 rads? Running them passive?


----------



## Mentalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n0n44m;15418898*
> very very awesome kerel, pretty much exactly what I want to do for my next build (smaller case, all components watercooled, big external rad)
> 
> you've got *2* MO-RA 3 rads? Running them passive?


Thanks/Bedankt!

The MO-RA 3 are driven by 8 Silverstone AP-181 (180) fans and controlled by an aquaero 5.0 LT
Fan-Controller







.


----------



## Mentalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opp47;15418077*
> That's awesome... It looks gorgeous..


Thanks! i appreciate it.


----------



## CesarNYC

Hello all, I am putting together a loop and need help tweaking. I have the below, I feel its kinda meh. The other two rads are on the PSU side top and bottom, just like the mobo side. How would you run the tubing?

The lay out is Res1 -> Pump 1 -> Rad 1 - >CPU block -> Rad 2 ->Mobo Block -> Ram Block -> Res 2 -> Pump 2 -> Rad 3 -> Rad 4 -> GPU Blocks -> Res 1.


----------



## RushMore1205

^ my god that case is so huge, takes all the fun out of being creative lol

nonlesss nice build man


----------



## CesarNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;15419986*
> ^ my god that case is so huge, takes all the fun out of being creative lol
> 
> nonlesss nice build man


Far from finished. Still just mocking stuff up. New challenges with a big case, the fun is there if you look for it.


----------



## Mentalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CesarNYC;15419839*
> Hello all, I am putting together a loop and need help tweaking. I have the below, I feel its kinda meh. The other two rads are on the PSU side top and bottom, just like the mobo side. How would you run the tubing?
> 
> The lay out is Res1 -> Pump 1 -> Rad 1 - >CPU block -> Rad 2 ->Mobo Block -> Ram Block -> Res 2 -> Pump 2 -> Rad 3 -> Rad 4 -> GPU Blocks -> Res 1.


When i'm not wrong you use the lay-out in one single loop?


----------



## CesarNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mentalist;15420103*
> When i'm not wrong you use the lay-out in one single loop?


Yup single loop


----------



## Mentalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CesarNYC;15420140*
> Yup single loop


You olso can consider to build a compleet separate system.


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CesarNYC;15419839*
> Hello all, I am putting together a loop and need help tweaking. I have the below, I feel its kinda meh. The other two rads are on the PSU side top and bottom, just like the mobo side. How would you run the tubing?
> 
> The lay out is Res1 -> Pump 1 -> Rad 1 - >CPU block -> Rad 2 ->Mobo Block -> Ram Block -> Res 2 -> Pump 2 -> Rad 3 -> Rad 4 -> GPU Blocks -> Res 1.


You should only use a single res per loop.

I'd go two loops as you appear to have all the gear needed in your current design or just run a single res


----------



## Cuar

New pictures of my loop I just finished this weekend. Hope you like.

Also just had to throw in my awesome background.


----------



## Los Hog

Your building a monster Cesar


----------



## Onions

i like the bg can you pm a full sized pic


----------



## CesarNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn;15428450*
> You should only use a single res per loop.
> 
> I'd go two loops as you appear to have all the gear needed in your current design or just run a single res


What is the rationale behind using only one res per loop?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog;15428653*
> Your building a monster Cesar


Indeed.

Well here is tubing layout Mark II.


----------



## bundymania

Alex with *HIS* new House..eeehm....Microcool Banchetto 101 Benchtable !


----------



## lightsout

You let a rabbit run around your house? Doesn't it crap everywhere?


----------



## Los Hog

I would eat the rabbit then run around crapping him out everywere


----------



## jellis142

You guys are silly. That's not a rabbit, it's a tiny, furry horse.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142;15432845*
> You guys are silly. That's not a rabbit, it's a tiny, furry horse.












Had to try so hard not to laugh at work.


----------



## veblen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;15431264*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alex with *HIS* new House..eeehm....Microcool Banchetto 101 Benchtable !










That's a handsome rabbit!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15432789*
> You let a rabbit run around your house? Doesn't it crap everywhere?


Nope, rabbits can be potty-trained. May still crap occasionally but nothing too crazy.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;15431264*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


If you're gonna go there, why not go to a pick and pull, and grab a VW rabbit radiator and 12v fan for cheap?

It makes a great air conditioner


----------



## t-ramp

Anyway... got my loop set up this weekend. In the process of switching out fittings on my video card block I managed to break off a couple SMD capacitors opposite the VRAM.









The card still works fine, though, so I'm just gonna go with it and see what happens.

Otherwise, everything turned out well enough.


----------



## Kenetic

Picture of my current loop, i have a ton of stuff ordered and hopefully should be recieving it tommorow. I will update once new setup is complete.

I have been holding off posting my current setup as was embarrassed at the state of my wiring however i received my new PSU today and have just finished putting it in and now its a bit more respectible









Before :










After :


----------



## masonkian

have changed my loop around.
nice and easy to drain, just loosen the top of the res.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ramkatral

Okay, did a bit of work with rerouting some wires and trying my BEST to make this horrible case as presentable as possible. I think this is going to be the final product on this case until I can manage to get a new case (Which I desperately gotta get). What ya think?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral;15441584*
> Okay, did a bit of work with rerouting some wires and trying my BEST to make this horrible case as presentable as possible. I think this is going to be the final product on this case until I can manage to get a new case (Which I desperately gotta get). What ya think?


Looks very nice ramkatral.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Onions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *masonkian*


have changed my loop around.
nice and easy to drain, just loosen the top of the res.




















yikes you should have the pump directly after the res...


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


yikes you should have the pump directly after the res...


^^^^^^


----------



## lowfat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


yikes you should have the pump directly after the res...


That really doesn't at all once the loop is bleed. With the way his loop is bleeding probably wasn't even all that bad since the pump is lower than the reservoir.


----------



## t-ramp

The Bitspower fittings (except the 90 degree rotaries) and Primochill tubing (3/8" x 1/2") are new, everything else is carried over from the previous setup.


----------



## Ceadderman

You meant except the 45deg rotaries, correct? Cause those 90s' are BP Rotaries.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15447059*
> You meant except the 45deg rotaries, correct? Cause those 90s' are BP Rotaries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Er, sorry, I meant the 90s aren't _new_.









I know it's all Bitspower. Just the way I wanted it.


----------



## Nezmen

I just built this, I have much more to do in the coming weeks, but I am taking a break until I get my other parts.

A teaser -









I will add what it currently looks like here in a few when I upload them.


----------



## andygoyap

more pics here: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1133437-tj11-single-loop-dominator-sandy-tri.html#post15186848


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Leak testing new build:


----------



## BWG

I like that green! Do you have any uv lights to see how it looks lit up?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG;15465910*
> I like that green! Do you have any uv lights to see how it looks lit up?


Still sunny in SoCal







. I'll get some this evening


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15464499*
> Leak testing new build:


Green Themes FTW! (not that I'm bias or anything like that







)


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks really nice werm. Not much of a leak test w/o paper towels though.







heh heh

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15466385*
> Looks really nice werm. Not much of a leak test w/o paper towels though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heh heh
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:










Paper towels are for suckers


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Updated

wermad - you make me do to much work for you, I have had to sort through your posts and delete the ones that don't show new stuff 2-3 times now.









ceadderman - I have never used paper towels during a leak test, all they do is make it so you can't see everything clearly if there is a small leak and if it is a big leak they will not help anything.


----------



## Ceadderman

I know. If you have comps PTs' really don't matter too much unless God forbid you have a pinhole leak in the tubing.









Hey one question guys. I'm considering running a T fitting off the outlet of that EK dual ddc block. One to component the other to drainage tube. Would that not be advisable by adding back pressure to the drain? Should I add a ball valve on the drain side?









I don't think that it should matter since I won't be draining while under power, but maybe someone has a different thought in mind on this.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15466385*
> Looks really nice werm. Not much of a leak test w/o paper towels though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heh heh
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I had a tiny leak on the res seal w/ the bottom part. The plumbing was tugging on the res a bit and it twisted the res body a bit. I caught the little droplet forming on the res. A good twist and no more leaks. I've never worked with a res that has so many different ports on both ends as well as the threads where done a bit off imo







This leaves the top and bottom ports in awkward positions.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15466543*
> Updated
> 
> wermad - you make me do to much work for you, I have had to sort through your posts and delete the ones that don't show new stuff 2-3 times now.










Only recent pic of "new" build. Thanks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15466856*
> I know. If you have comps PTs' really don't matter too much unless God forbid you have a pinhole leak in the tubing.


doesn't matter what type of fittings you use, same either way.

as for your drain port idea, it will work fine as long as you let it get full of water while you are filling the loop.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15466385*
> Looks really nice werm. Not much of a leak test w/o paper towels though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heh heh
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I never leak test with towels. I prefer using my finger on all fittings every 20 minutes.

Oh and by the way, very nice new build Wermad.







Love the green theme!!!


----------



## wermad

meh









My uv cats are very weak. Anyone know if a uv led strip will be better?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15468642*
> meh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My uv cats are very weak. Anyone know if a uv led strip will be better?


most of the time if the Cathodes are weak it is the inverter that is the problem. do you have another inverter? the Lamptron ones are much more reliable than the basic blue box ones that come with CCFLs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15468687*
> most of the time if the Cathodes are weak it is the inverter that is the problem. do you have another inverter? the Lamptron ones are much more reliable than the basic blue box ones that come with CCFLs.


That's what I was suspecting







I have a bunch of those "sound activated" ones that I modded the harness so they stay on all the time (did two only). I'll try the others one's that are not modded. If no go, I'll look into the Lamptron inverter.


----------



## Ceadderman

So any answer to my question of drain tube on one point of T fitting? Yay or nay or install ball valve between it and the T fitting? If ball valve anyone know where to get a Black one?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15468642*
> meh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My uv cats are very weak. Anyone know if a uv led strip will be better?


I wondered if the uv led strips work as good as cats myself. Our local Fry's has uv led strips in stock for $13.








I want the while led strip... but they never have them in stock.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15468822*
> So any answer to my question of drain tube on one point of T fitting? Yay or nay or install ball valve between it and the T fitting? If ball valve anyone know where to get a Black one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


As long as its at a low point, don't matter how you plumb it imo. Valve would be a nice touch too









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser;15468888*
> I wondered if the uv led strips work as good as cats myself. Our local Fry's has uv led strips in stock for $13.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want the while led strip... but they never have them in stock.


Thanks, I was thinking about going to Frys to check out what they have since I'm going to a plastics company in Kearney Mesa of the I-15.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15468961*
> As long as its at a low point, don't matter how you plumb it imo. Valve would be a nice touch too


Yeah just want to make sure there isn't alot of back pressure that could cause a leak. 700+lph from the two pumps in serial, I'm wondering if a ball valve is necessary

[Drain]=T=[Loop]
[Dual DDC]

Yes the drain will be lower than the Res but the T fitting will divert water 2 ways initially, until the drain hose(or valve stops it) fills. Would that create a dead spot in the line? My spidey sense(OCD) is tingling.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15469807*
> Yeah just want to make sure there isn't alot of back pressure that could cause a leak. 700+lph from the two pumps in serial, I'm wondering if a ball valve is necessary
> 
> [Drain]=T=[Loop]
> [Dual DDC]
> 
> Yes the drain will be lower than the Res but the T fitting will divert water 2 ways initially, until the drain hose(or valve stops it) fills. Would that create a dead spot in the line? My spidey sense(OCD) is tingling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Phobya/Alphacool:









Koolance:










I freaking hate my VL4 qdc, damn thing gets stuck all the time, has quite a bit of dribble after disco, and sometimes refuses to interlock







. Going to get the VL3Ns and retire this guy.


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15468642*
> My uv cats are very weak.












But they're so cute!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Phobya/Alphacool:









Koolance:










I freaking hate my VL4 qdc, damn thing gets stuck all the time, has quite a bit of dribble after disco, and sometimes refuses to interlock







. Going to get the VL3Ns and retire this guy.


Do yourself a favor, get a compression fitting a G1/4 female/female fitting and a plug. There won't be any dribble because it will be sealed by the oring. Costs less than KL QD fittings and is a simple setup. That's how I'm gonna do mine. EK Comps f/f and Red BP plug to show that it's a no no to undo the plug while active. That's why I'm considering a ball valve but I want a Black one not shiny nickel.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

with your T fitting, have the pump and loop on the sides thast are opposite each other and the drain on the spot that is perpendicular. your flow rates will love you for it.

side note: flow rates do not add when the pumps are in series. two 350 lph pumps in series will still move 350 lph with no restriction, not 700 lph


----------



## Boyboyd

I've got a day off work tomorrow, got a list of things to do.

Make it to i can have both sides on my case.
Use less tubing.
Mount the 360mm rad internally and the 240mm rad externally.


----------



## k.3nny

My latest shot


















Some older pics.


----------



## GhostDog99

dame nice looking rigs


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *k.3nny*


My latest shot
















[/IMG]


Looks like you have something growing in your res.


----------



## k.3nny

It is air Hahaha


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny;15474103*


Lund PomPlex







I have that same res and love it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;15472134*
> with your T fitting, have the pump and loop on the sides thast are opposite each other and the drain on the spot that is perpendicular. your flow rates will love you for it.
> 
> side note: flow rates do not add when the pumps are in series. two 350 lph pumps in series will still move 350 lph with no restriction, not 700 lph


Aha okay. So the T fitting mounts to the block on the through pass and the offshoot should be drain. Makes sense.

Best I can hope for then is 450lph right? Given that with the 3/8 top it's 350 and with a single unit G1/4 top it's 450lph? I do like that restrictions would be nil or next to it since I'll have three 90s' and five 45s' in the loop. Granted 2 of my 90s' will be from the Fillport/Res so they really won't add any restriction anyway.

1 more question though. Should I just get a full multioption Res and use the adapter ring to mount to the block or piecemeal? Seems it might be easier to go with the multioption albeit a little more pricey.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cyberbeat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *morencyam*


Lund PomPlex







I have that same res and love it
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/7992/dsc00859n.jpg


Same Res here too, is quite nice, Although I have been looking at getting a full acrylic res....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Aha okay. So the T fitting mounts to the block on the through pass and the offshoot should be drain. Makes sense.

Best I can hope for then is 450lph right? Given that with the 3/8 top it's 350 and with a single unit G1/4 top it's 450lph? I do like that restrictions would be nil or next to it since I'll have three 90s' and five 45s' in the loop. Granted 2 of my 90s' will be from the Fillport/Res so they really won't add any restriction anyway.

1 more question though. Should I just get a full multioption Res and use the adapter ring to mount to the block or piecemeal? Seems it might be easier to go with the multioption albeit a little more pricey.









~Ceadder










you will likely not get flow rates over 350lph, that number is with NOTHING in a loop, just a short piece of tube from a reservoir and letting the water just shoot out of the outlet. the tubing and blocks will add restrictions which will pull your flow rate down. you don't really need to worry about it though, flow rate does not have much effect, and even 100lph is more than good enough for any water cooling loop.

as for the res, totally up to you. res choice is dependent purely on looks, they all do the same thing just as well as any other. bigger = easier to fill and bleed your loop.


----------



## BWG

Kevin, do you happen to remember who has blue and white alternating tubing?

I think it was saltwater that had it in his shelby build, but the pic is gone and his case is modified now.


----------



## wermad

I just got my g1/4" tap and 11.8mm drill bit. Time to start making some unique water pieces


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


you will likely not get flow rates over 350lph, that number is with NOTHING in a loop, just a short piece of tube from a reservoir and letting the water just shoot out of the outlet. the tubing and blocks will add restrictions which will pull your flow rate down. you don't really need to worry about it though, flow rate does not have much effect, and even 100lph is more than good enough for any water cooling loop.

as for the res, totally up to you. res choice is dependent purely on looks, they all do the same thing just as well as any other. bigger = easier to fill and bleed your loop.


I'm thinking the MO may be the way to go. Should I change pumps and block later etc I'll still have a Res that I won't have to replace later on. For a 200mm tube it's $20, 2 port adapter is $10, Cap is $10, anti cyclone tube is $6 then plugs for the adapter... I may have answered that question. 250 MO Adv. is $60 so I think I'll go with that and have that kewl EK cyclone piece as a bonus. Was thinking Basic but it doesn't have the dual port top or the EK piece.









Can't wait to see what you have in store for us with the water features werm. Thanks for the feedback though it's much appreciated.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BWG*


Kevin, do you happen to remember who has blue and white alternating tubing?

I think it was saltwater that had it in his shelby build, but the pic is gone and his case is modified now.


I do not remember, sorry


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


I do not remember, sorry


It was indeed Saltwater. He also has white and blue cabling to match.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


It was indeed Saltwater. He also has white and blue cabling to match.









~Ceadder










The epic shelby build? That was pure smexy









Changed cpu block, meh, I want to see my Mahems dye. Now about those uv lights....


----------



## DevilDriver

New Pic's with gpu block and a 120.1 dd gtx rad. Thinking about renaming the system to Cyborg Dragon.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*


New Pic's with gpu block and a 120.1 dd gtx rad. Thinking about renaming the system to Cyborg Dragon.

*snipz0r*


Legacy hardware. Oh the old X6700, good 'ol times.
Cool.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CesarNYC*


Far from finished. Still just mocking stuff up. New challenges with a big case, the fun is there if you look for it.


i did not say it was looking bad, im just amazed by the size of these things, looking forward to seeing the finish product


----------



## Scorpion49

I'll join the club, right after I get the bubbles out:


----------



## BZ1891

Added a full cover EK FC6970 waterblock and the Koolance radiator mount (BKT-HX001) to my build.

Koolance Radiator Mount





The System in 'Armored' view



EK FC6970 water Block







Stressing the GPU for 30 Minutes Using MSI Kombuster. Radeon HD 6950 Flash Unlocked to HD 6970 specs and further overclocked to 925/1425 @ 1.175v



http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/7...x112011102.jpg



http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/7...x112011102.jpg


----------



## driftingforlife

As I have my 2 480 RAD stacked would I see better temps on my hardware if I went duel loop and put one RAD in the top on my LD, Im thinking of going duel loop anyway once I get my 355 back from a mate.


----------



## Boyboyd

And the award for excessive tubing goes to... Me.



Got plans to reduce it vastly. Get some 90 degree, 180 degree, and 45 degree fittings. And change my compression fittings to the top of my GPU.


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*


I'll join the club, right after I get the bubbles out:











Love the Small builds. When I can afford a second rig, building my girl one.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RussianJ*


Love the Small builds. When I can afford a second rig, building my girl one.


I like it a lot. Its about 70% done, lots of stuff to do yet but I wanted it running for the time being. It runs great, much cooler than I expected it to.


----------



## mironccr345

Added the RX360, RayStorm cpu block and more UV cathodes.


----------



## KaRLiToS

You can always mod your case to integrate your 240 Rad at the bottom, you will be able to reduce the tubing by many feet.









But honestly, the actual look of your build looks awsome, I like it like this

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


And the award for excessive tubing goes to... Me.



Got plans to reduce it vastly. Get some 90 degree, 180 degree, and 45 degree fittings. And change my compression fittings to the top of my GPU.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


And the award for excessive tubing goes to... Me.


Â© kamikaze_


----------



## kevink82

New setup for me


----------



## cyberbeat

Wow, very nice!
The read coolant looks amazing!


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevink82;15507937*
> New setup for me


http://www.overclock.net/member-run-clubs/1118015-littledevil-owners-club.html


----------



## Divineman

Some people want to see my build inside, so I put some pics for them









Enjoy!


----------



## Xraven771




----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divineman;15508595*
> Some people want to see my build inside, so I put some pics for them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!


I herd u lyk blu.

Also what is that CPU block? It looks awesome









Also you should maybe get some more light on your rig when photographing it, and is it just me or is your 470 bending? Nvm, it's just the pics angle


----------



## bundymania

New week...new Stuff arrived


----------



## Kenetic

My new build i have just finished. I still have a few more bits todo, mainly add some lighting into the case.

I had a xspc rasa kit before which gave me the watercooling bug and i couldnt wait to build my own setup. Its CPU only untill my next graphics card update.

EK Supreme HF Full Copper
Primochill 1/2 black tubing
Koolance compression fittings / bitspower bends
XSPC RX360 with 3x 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons
Phobya balancer 250 / Alphacool VPP655 + Alphacool Top

Its not perfect but im very pleased with it as my first proper setup









Leak Testing









Running (poor pic as im too lazy to move the pc out atm and my room has very poor lighting)


----------



## Divineman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;15508831*
> I herd u lyk blu.
> 
> Also what is that CPU block? It looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also you should maybe get some more light on your rig when photographing it, and is it just me or is your 470 bending? Nvm, it's just the pics angle


Its Alphacool NIAGARA


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## kamikaze_

Bundy is always providing this thread with some hardware pr0n0graphy.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundymania*


New week...new Stuff arrived

*snip*]


Hey Bundy let me know if you seem to have issues with the swiftech bridges and threading your barbs. I know I messed up a little bit of the threading on one top port. Had to flip it over and use it with the block off barb.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Happy Halloween weekend! Check out my Fiance and I's costumes


----------



## kamikaze_




----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevink82*


New setup for me










What coolant is this? Looks awesome!


----------



## nzftw

idk about taking lollies from you guys, might make me go a bit









Also, what are you guys drinking!?


----------



## Prospect

Hey guys, I finally got done with my rig. 
I'm not sure if this is the right forum to post this since it isn't a full on H2O setup, but here's some pics.

  
 You Tube


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nzftw*


idk about taking lollies from you guys, might make me go a bit









Also, what are you guys drinking!?


It is strawberry-cranberry-limeade blended slush with citron vodka in chilled mugs.


----------



## bundymania

@kevingreenbmx: funny and nice pics, you could be my son...i thougt you were older









external mounting stuff for the AMS rad :


----------



## Mentalist

And...








...this one with build-in D5 pump! Nice


----------



## M.IV.E

is 2 meter of tubing for the water loop? loop will be CPU > rad > gpu > res > pump > res


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M.IV.E;15518072*
> is 2 meter of tubing for the water loop? loop will be CPU > rad > gpu > res > pump > res


buy more just incase, you never know if you'll mess up a length or change your mind about the loop. Its always good to be prepared. I always get about 10 feet so about 3 meters.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mentalist*


And...







...this one with build-in D5 pump! Nice




I iz getting this one! 
2 weeks baby...









-Josh


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ It's too bad those are Externals and 140 setups. I would *definitely* have entertained getting one.









Unless one of the Res's has a secondary use, i.e. Res/Pump or Fillport/Res, two really aren't needed.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Update !









570 classified under water and improved tube routing.


----------



## kamikaze_

i5 760.


----------



## Boyboyd

I've ordered 6 45 degree fittings, and 2 90 degree fittings so i can sort out my tubing.

Also ordered a 5 fan controller, so i can turn them right down if i need to.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Check out these EnzoTech 90 degree comps...



















They look awesome. Good thing I only need 2 or 3 for my setup cause they ain't cheeps. $17ea. at the Egg.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ramkatral

Finally a new case! Cm 690 II! Ignore the CPU power line, I have an extension ordered so I can put it behind mobo tray.

Sorry for horrible pics... iPhone snapped.

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.


----------



## fr0st.

Favourite shot from my current build. Gonna order the GPU block any day now ^-^


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15526386*
> Check out these EnzoTech 90 degree comps...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They look awesome. Good thing I only need 2 or 3 for my setup cause they ain't cheeps. $17ea. at the Egg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I like that those actually have wrench flats on them so you don't have to tear up the finish on your expensive comps to tighten them down like with bitspower ones.


----------



## bundymania

New rad from EK arrived today:


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15526386*
> Check out these EnzoTech 90 degree comps...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They look awesome. Good thing I only need 2 or 3 for my setup cause they ain't cheeps. $17ea. at the Egg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


if you have 1/2"ID by 3/4"OD they are only $11 at Sidewinders.

If you need another size, I bet Gary could do it for you.


----------



## Boyboyd

I bought some new stuff recently. The only barbs they had in stock were 1/2 ID, not 7/16, in any kind of fitting. The only thing is you can't use 7/16 tubing stretched over 1/2 barbs more than once, as the tubing doesn't snap back to it's original diameter.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*


Update !









570 classified under water and improved tube routing.











looks really nice mate


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


if you have 1/2"ID by 3/4"OD they are only $11 at Sidewinders.

If you need another size, I bet Gary could do it for you.


Awesome Possum! Thanks fid, much appreciated. Yes mine are 1/2" x 3/4".









@Bundy... is that a 420 Rad? Also is that just a drain on the end of the Rad or can it be used for XFlow i.e. Black Ice XFlow Rads?









~Ceadder


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Check out these EnzoTech 90 degree comps...



















They look awesome. Good thing I only need 2 or 3 for my setup cause they ain't cheeps. $17ea. at the Egg.









~Ceadder










What makes the compression fitting special? I notice that don't seem to rotate, but I like them!


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Systemlord*


What makes the compression fitting special? I notice that don't seem to rotate, but I like them!


Not a whole lot... I have them because i find they look better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Systemlord*


What makes the compression fitting special? I notice that don't seem to rotate, but I like them!


They are rotary fittings. You really don't want a fitting that will do alot of free movement. Tight movement is okay, free movement can create a leak point and that would be bad.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yogi

Must resist rebuilding...


----------



## bundymania

Between reviews and many other stuff, i had time for an update from older Project Acc-O-Range


----------



## kevingreenbmx

looks good bundy!







be sure to post pics when you get it plumbed up so that I can "update" you


----------



## bundymania

Yeah...maybe i can fire it up until we.


----------



## atomicfr33x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania;15547501*
> Between reviews and many other stuff, i had time for an update from older Project Acc-O-Range


well done with the Volvo Orange.. it actually looks great!!


----------



## Edsurf987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15526386*
> Check out these EnzoTech 90 degree comps...
> They look awesome. Good thing I only need 2 or 3 for my setup cause they ain't cheeps. $17ea. at the Egg.


OMG, not cheap at all









@Bundy : really nice







I like this black/orange theme


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Edsurf987*


OMG, not cheap at all









@Bundy : really nice







I like this black/orange theme










Nope not if you buy them at the Egg which is funny cause their 45s were the same price as PPCs had them. But these are new and only place that has them other than Sidewinders, to my knowledge and they can be had for $6 less + a minor shipping which surprisingly beats the cost of shipping from the egg which is $2.99 a unit.









@Bundy... that's that Gigabyte board is it not. Would have been nice if you'd posted the obligatory centerfold. Just make sure to hide the staples.









@koolance RP-401X2 dual/serial bay ddc owners... hey guys I would like to see if I can't get one of you're unused block off plates if you still have one. PM me and we can work it out. I'm getting that EK dual DDC and need one so I can test my pumps during leakdown.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

My next project is to make a cover for the bottom part of the case to hide the psu, pump etc.


----------



## Ceadderman

Why aren't people with GPU blocks using card keepers to take some of the burden off their GPU?










Might help with all that sagging and having to come up with a solution that contribute aesthetically.









~Ceadder


----------



## loop0001

maybe because i hadnt heard of them before. look pretty darn cool though!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loop0001;15553244*
> maybe because i hadnt heard of them before. look pretty darn cool though!


Yeah they're typically used on LAN Rigs but should serve a purpose for GPU blocks.









Not too spendy either.









Although for people with SLI/XFire bridges may have to be modified to clear them.









*Edit... Nobody has a DDC block off plate and o-ring they can part with from their Koolance RP-401X2 ddc dual/serial bay? I'm gonna open a Wanted thread later today then. Maybe someone will see it there.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15553130*
> Why aren't people with GPU blocks using card keepers to take some of the burden off their GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might help with all that sagging and having to come up with a solution that contribute aesthetically.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


yeah i need to get one of those, i have a plastic stick holding my card up lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;15555343*
> yeah i need to get one of those, i have a plastic stick holding my card up lol


I've come up with a better way to do it. I'll mock it up when I get time and it should be more stable than those. But they are gppd for keeping things safe when moving your system.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15555431*
> I've come up with a better way to do it. I'll mock it up when I get time and it should be more stable than those. But they are gppd for keeping things safe when moving your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


sounds great! for the amount of tearing down and putting back together i end up doing i, should be using a test bench.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15555431*
> I've come up with a better way to do it. I'll mock it up when I get time and it should be more stable than those. But they are gppd for keeping things safe when moving your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I hope it's not like this "patented" card stabilizer: ROFL








:laugher:


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;15555458*
> I hope it's not like this "patented" card stabilizer: ROFL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :laugher:


hahahahaha talk about ghetto. Lets zip tie these babies together!! maybe one will melt the other


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope no cheapo zip ties here. I have a brain. I bet the dimwit that came up with that idea is no longer working in R&D for that company.







lulz

I have the general idea mapped out but I want it to have a reasonable look to it before I produce it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ramkatral

Lmao that's some ultra hi tech patenting right there.

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15553130*
> Why aren't people with GPU blocks using card keepers to take some of the burden off their GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might help with all that sagging and having to come up with a solution that contribute aesthetically.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


The PCI standard includes provisions for support mechanisms at the end of a 12" card slot - when was the last time you saw a case with those in it (unless it was a server)?

These are the last ones I can think of off hand:


----------



## Ceadderman

Hah I see what I'm looking at now. Is Right Hand Access with Card stabilizer mounted to the Mainboard tray. I was lookin an lookin but my old tired eyes weren't up to the task for a bit. Pic is too small for immediate recognition.










~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Los Hog

I thought I was looking down into a case before your post lol


----------



## wermad

The hard sli bridge and the ek bridge give my cards enough rigidity that they don't need support.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15560617*
> The hard sli bridge and the ek bridge give my cards enough rigidity that they don't need support.


thats good, im sure ill be ok once i get a second card in there. Im just using the ek bridge so that im not limited to the only ports the block has, which is underneath.


----------



## kieran13

Thought i might repost since ive changed my loop order a little made it so there is no tight turns and added push/pull to the rad


----------



## Ceadderman

Aneed a bigger pic kieran.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kieran13

haha yeh silly 3D camera


----------



## kevink82

New rig finished.


----------



## wermad

Is that a LD V8?

Looks awesome


----------



## AlanScott

Updated my rig. Added a second 355 pump, custom led lighting, Intel 510 ssd on the way.


----------



## Hawk777th

Bling Bling. Nice work!


----------



## cyberbeat

That's really nice!
Would love to do something like that








How much did those panels cost you to make?


----------



## AlanScott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15566973*
> That's really nice!
> Would love to do something like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much did those panels cost you to make?


Probably about $25-30, its just plain jane steel paneling from home depot, that I spray painted and clear coated.


----------



## cyberbeat

Nice, looks like acrylic








Got any pics of how it is all mounted?


----------



## AlanScott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15567014*
> Nice, looks like acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got any pics of how it is all mounted?


before I redid the interior I used black plexi, it looked nice but it was extremely fragile. The current version is done with angle iron and those steel panels I mentioned before. Here is a fabrication shot.


----------



## cyberbeat

nice, so you made the braces to fit, then riveted them to the body?
How is the Steel fixed in place, and removed?


----------



## AlanScott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat;15567045*
> nice, so you made the braces to fit, then riveted them to the body?
> How is the Steel fixed in place, and removed?


I drilled out all the rivets on this case a long time ago, everything in the case has been drilled and tapped and is held together with button head machine screws, for ease of maintenance.


----------



## cyberbeat

Awesome, as soon as I get some spare cash, I think I may now do something similar!
Seriously, amazing job!


----------



## AlanScott

Thanks I appreciate the kind words! Get that cash and get to building!


----------



## Johnsen

That is sick lookin!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlanScott;15567105*
> I drilled out all the rivets on this case a long time ago, everything in the case has been drilled and tapped and is held together with button head machine screws, for ease of maintenance.


Is that really a Corsair 700D, this beautiful build has a look all its own! I first though it might be a Lian Li or Little Devil, white has a nice clean look to it and well done!









This is making me rethink my build in January!


----------



## GhostDog99

man that rig loog great


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlanScott;15566891*


Amazing, now I want a Obsidian series case!

I see some classic X58 stuff from when it launched too. (EVGA X58 SLI & 1600MHz Dominator







) Still great stuff though, I'm not upgrading until Ivybridge socket LGA2011 processors get released by Xmas.


----------



## AlanScott

Haha thanks, yeah I'm waiting on ivy bridge as well. Until then I'll just have to "make due" with the current setup


----------



## munaim1

More picture's in my build log: http://www.overclock.net/intel-build-logs/1150843-build-log-small-transformation-sandy-got.html


----------



## bundymania

Project-Acc-Orange is done now..


----------



## Mullinz

Wow AlanScott that is really unique/awesome! Definitely an amazing build you have there.


----------



## Los Hog

Looks great bundy


----------



## bundymania

Thx man !


----------



## Ceadderman

When you gon be dun wit my PC Bundy? It looks really sharp right now though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

http://www.overclock.net/amd-build-logs/1159792-project-pipebomb.html#post15569150

New build from me,still embryonic as parts are still coming in....


----------



## HAFenvy

Nice Bundy... I love systems that go with a non-typical color scheme. The orange looks awesome.

My next build if that ever actually happens... Dark Purple.


----------



## kamikaze_

Holy hell, munaim1, RESIZE PICTURES!!!!!!


----------



## Beens17

Installed my RX360 Kit today !
My first water cool attempt!

















Next week i will add the XSPC GPU block !


----------



## losttsol

I love that fan controller. Knobs with subtle blue digital readout. Very classy. Some of them are so goofy looking these days.


----------



## grishkathefool

@Beens: I am no expert, but looking at your connection to your CPU, I notice that one hose has a radius bend over 180 degrees. In my mind that would cause friction, thus impeding flow and inducing turbulence.

Could someone with GREATER knowledge of liquid cooling please affirm or deny this assertion?


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grishkathefool*


@Beens: I am no expert, but looking at your connection to your CPU, I notice that one hose has a radius bend over 180 degrees. In my mind that would cause friction, thus impeding flow and inducing turbulence.

Could someone with GREATER knowledge of liquid cooling please affirm or deny this assertion?


180 degree bends are quite common and shouldn't impede flow as long as the hose doesn't collapse under the bend. it's still a smooth hose and water should flow freely. No turbulence would be created that I can see.

Look at common CPU to northbridge connections. Those are usually some sharp bends.

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.


----------



## Onions

rly cause i spy a kink and thats gonns hurt flow alot


----------



## losttsol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grishkathefool*


@Beens: I am no expert, but looking at your connection to your CPU, I notice that one hose has a radius bend over 180 degrees. In my mind that would cause friction, thus impeding flow and inducing turbulence.

Could someone with GREATER knowledge of liquid cooling please affirm or deny this assertion?


Having a stream of water come into a CPU block, hit the bottom of the block and spread out in all directions, then get funneled out the top again impedes flow much more, but it is a necessary component. The least amount of hose and turns is always ideal, but I don't think that one bend will hurt his temps in that setup.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;15575873*
> rly cause i spy a kink and thats gonns hurt flow alot


Optical illusion Mate. There's no kink there.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## gumbie

Here's a little update, Now supporting SLI GTX570's











And yes, That is an RX360 in front of a CM690II Advanced









Please excuse the crappy phone pic.. I honestly can not find my camera anywhere..


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie;15577293*
> Here's a little update, Now supporting SLI GTX570's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, That is an RX360 in front of a CM690II Advanced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please excuse the crappy phone pic.. I honestly can not find my camera anywhere..


Nice, what fittings are on the cpu block? Feser?


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;15577895*
> Nice, what fittings are on the cpu block? Feser?


All fittings are Bitspower Compressions, 1/2ID 3/4OD


----------



## kamikaze_

Nice motherboard mate. o/


----------



## Beens17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *losttsol;15575683*
> I love that fan controller. Knobs with subtle blue digital readout. Very classy. Some of them are so goofy looking these days.


Ya, i love it !
Its sexy !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;15575873*
> rly cause i spy a kink and thats gonns hurt flow alot


There is no kink in that turn.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie;15577293*
> Here's a little update, Now supporting SLI GTX570's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> And yes, That is an RX360 in front of a CM690II Advanced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please excuse the crappy phone pic.. I honestly can not find my camera anywhere..


I just now noticed that your reservoir is upside down.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;15578646*
> I just now noticed that your reservoir is upside down.


Should work okay since pump is flowing to the GPU first. But yeah I yust noticed that too.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## kamikaze_

CHEDDAR!














Cheese is good.


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;15578646*
> I just now noticed that your reservoir is upside down.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15578848*
> Should work okay since pump is flowing to the GPU first. But yeah I yust noticed that too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah, I only noticed it my self when I was filling up the system, I'll turn it around when I change my loop around, Or when I move house in a few weeks









Still works fine the way it is though


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I've added a second GTX 480 since a posted a few months ago:



















I hope you guys like it


----------



## kamikaze_

Murdered out!


----------



## gumbie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*


I've added a second GTX 480 since a posted a few months ago:

*snip*

I hope you guys like it










What size extensions are you using on your GPU's for SLI?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie;15580686*
> What size extensions are you using on your GPU's for SLI?


They look like 20/25mm extensions.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## KaRLiToS

@ MrTOOshort

Your rig is awsome, I like the black theme and I consider switching my tube from white to black when I clean my loop in 6 months.


----------



## Hogwasher

I subbed this thread because I planned on a new Sandy bridge build early next year. Was going to water cool the whole thing. But this Damn thread has me wanting to water cool my current sig rig


----------



## jellis142

Hmm... with an H50, _technically_, you are water cooling it









I thought of doing the same thing. But I'm not spending money to water cool a Phenom II... saving up for SB-E or Ivy!


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jellis142*


Hmm... with an H50, _technically_, you are water cooling it









I thought of doing the same thing. But I'm not spending money to water cool a Phenom II... saving up for SB-E or Ivy!


Yeah but a H50 doesn't look good









But yeah I'm holding off until the next build


----------



## DrakeZ

hello guys, i want to ask

currently i have this loop

pump -> rad 360 -> cpu -> res
i'm using BIP III with yateloon push only

and i'm planning to add gpu block and the loop will be like this
pump -> rad 360-> cpu -> gpu -> res

i wonder if my rad can handle that, what do you think?


----------



## RussianJ

Had my 965 on h2O. Pushed nearly 500mhz faster while dropping temps.


----------



## AoHxBram

hmm guys i need you help if someone has some idea or expierience on this.
i want to upgrade to trifire, with a 6990 with a pre installed block, but i cant find a Ek fitted on anywhere. do you guys know if the Alphacool one lines up with the EK one.

so that means :
does this : http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/ek-fc6970-v2-nickel.html

Line up with this
http://www.aquatuning.nl/product_info.php/info/p12608_Alphacool-Radeon-HD-6990-4GB-GDDR5-PCIe-wassergek-hlt-mit-Alphacool-NexXxos-ATXP-6990.html

or could i better go for 2 more http://www.aquatuning.nl/product_info.php/info/p12606_Alphacool-Radeon-HD-6970-2GB-GDDR5-PCIe-wassergek-hlt-mit-Alphacool-NexXxos-ATXP-6970-50.html

cause i have an idea these do actualy Line up.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Looks to me they do but migh not be a perfect fit, 2 different brand blocks are gonna look ugly, you better wait for EK 6990.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo;15581240*
> Looks to me they do but migh not be a perfect fit, 2 different brand blocks are gonna look ugly, you better wait for EK 6990.


There is one already, LCS powercoler 6990, cant get it anywhere these days =/

the reason i want this is cause i have some bad expierence with blocks that dont fit. and bad cards, which the waranty void is broken of due to the instalation of the water block. happend twice to me now =/


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT;15580332*
> I've added a second GTX 480 since a posted a few months ago:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you guys like it:)[/QUOTE]
> 
> Really nice. Clean too.
> 
> I recognise that GPU block.


----------



## Tuthsok

Hi,

Figured it was about time I added a couple of pictures to this thread









Two items from the loop that you can't see in the pics are the RP-452X2 (rev 1.3) res/pump unit in the front and the TMS-200/TMS-200EB controller board in the bay above the res.

Cheers,


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142;15580981*
> Hmm... with an H50, _technically_, you are water cooling it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought of doing the same thing. But I'm not spending money to water cool a Phenom II... saving up for SB-E or Ivy!










What are you on about? Now IS the time to do it. If you get a good block that has both AMD and Intel brackets you can cool both and not have had to spend any money to convert from one to the other.








... *Except on TIM*

Your Phenom II would thank the hell out of you with better Clocks(more than likely) and when you're finally ready to spend money on Intel you've got your cooling system sorted out.

Excuses that fail...

Case isn't new enough.

Not gonna go to watercooling with Phenom

And recently with all the kits, too expensive.

Cases can be modded Phenom is a great place to start WC'ing @ and with the kits and Hydro Series coolers watercooling is fairly reasonable if you can afford Intel.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15581857*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you on about? Now IS the time to do it. If you get a good block that has both AMD and Intel brackets you can cool both and not have had to spend any money to convert from one to the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... *Except on TIM*
> 
> Your Phenom II would thank the hell out of you with better Clocks(more than likely) and when you're finally ready to spend money on Intel you've got your cooling system sorted out.
> 
> Excuses that fail...
> 
> Case isn't new enough.
> 
> Not gonna go to watercooling with Phenom
> 
> And recently with all the kits, too expensive.
> 
> Cases can be modded Phenom is a great place to start WC'ing @ and with the kits and Hydro Series coolers watercooling is fairly reasonable if you can afford Intel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I would water cool my 965 but even people water cooling the same stepping I have rarely get 4 ghz.


----------



## jellis142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15581857*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you on about? Now IS the time to do it. If you get a good block that has both AMD and Intel brackets you can cool both and not have had to spend any money to convert from one to the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... *Except on TIM*
> 
> Your Phenom II would thank the hell out of you with better Clocks(more than likely) and when you're finally ready to spend money on Intel you've got your cooling system sorted out.
> 
> Excuses that fail...
> 
> Case isn't new enough.
> 
> Not gonna go to watercooling with Phenom
> 
> And recently with all the kits, too expensive.
> 
> Cases can be modded Phenom is a great place to start WC'ing @ and with the kits and Hydro Series coolers watercooling is fairly reasonable if you can afford Intel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


1.) Hours at work cut to less then 10 hours a week, so even if I wanted to get a custom loop, I couldn't afford it







When I said waiting for SB-E or Ivy, I meant years down the line, when (hopefully), prices have gone down. Obviously, if something better comes out by the time I actually have funds, I'll switch to that.

2.) After hearing all the horror stories about my board regarding overclocking, I'm not risking burning out anything.

3.) My case isn't new enough


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher;15581925*
> I would water cool my 965 but even people water cooling the same stepping I have rarely get 4 ghz.


I had H50 and I got 4Ghz on it. Although it wasn't stable for a number of reasons. I'm currently building my loop. But no matter what if I go Intel or stick with AMD, I'll be able to use my cooler of choice even if I upgrade in the future. I can buy another block or another bracket when they have a new socket configuration.









If I could figure out how to Liquid Nitrogen safely 24/7, I'd probably have gone that direction instead. But if I can dump half my fans in the process of WC'ing I'll be a happier camper with lower dBs'.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15581998*
> I had H50 and I got 4Ghz on it. Although it wasn't stable for a number of reasons. I'm currently building my loop. But no matter what if I go Intel or stick with AMD, I'll be able to use my cooler of choice even if I upgrade in the future. I can buy another block or another bracket when they have a new socket configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could figure out how to Liquid Nitrogen safely 24/7, I'd probably have gone that direction instead. But if I can dump half my fans in the process of WC'ing I'll be a happier camper with lower dBs'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah the noise factor is tempting!









I can get into windows at 4 ghz but not much else. As soon as prime blinks it crashes. At 3.9 I get about 1-2 hrs of prime before crash. at 3.83 I get 4 hrs of prime, haven't really stressed it longer. To
impatient


----------



## ramkatral

Hogwasher I have the same problems on a 940. Though on water I can run prime on 4.007 for about an hour and that's it. It doesn't even get remotely warm, so it's not a heat issue. The core just won't stay stable. Damn thing.

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.


----------



## AoHxBram

Oh Sweet computershop.

just wanted to check the shop where i always buy for a 6990 price.
see they have a LCS 6990 in stock, cant wait to get my paycheck


----------



## Boyboyd

I'd love a 6990.


----------



## nostalgia

I apologize if this isn't the proper place for this, but a quick question:

Let's assume a simple watercooling loop with res, 240 rad, CPU block and pump. The loop is running on a distilled water + ethylene glycol mixture. If this system is left completely unused and unchecked for, let's say 6 months, are there any specific maintenance measures to be made before firing it back up?

Any input would be appreciated, thank you.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nostalgia*


I apologize if this isn't the proper place for this, but a quick question:

Let's assume a simple watercooling loop with res, 240 rad, CPU block and pump. The loop is running on a distilled water + ethylene glycol mixture. If this system is left completely unused and unchecked for, let's say 6 months, are there any specific maintenance measures to be made before firing it back up?

Any input would be appreciated, thank you.


If by unused you mean no water movement at all for 6 months, I would just drain it and refill it when it's time to fire it back up. Other than that, I've seen tests running the same distilled water with a killcoil for 24+ months. But I'm not really sure what would happen if you just let it sit stagnant for 6 months


----------



## Freakn

Decided to add a 3rd 4890 to the mix so thought I may as well redo the loop in readiness for when i get a block for the 3rd card

The 480 is now running 4 Xiggies in push and the 360 is running with 5 simple cm fans, needed the space instead of a 6th fan



As you see here what I meant about the space



Eastly stages of working out mounting for custom PSU location and setting up the fill point for the res



Snug fitting with the MB in place



All 3 cards and tube installed



All finished and filled, now just letting the system bleed for a few days



Just need to put all the extra Raven parts back on the exterior and its all good to go.

Thinking about making some covers up to hide the rads, pump and fans but that can wait


----------



## Scorpion49

Heres some more "complete" pics of my little black box. It awaiting custom side panels, sleeving for the cables, fan grille, and a few other things. I'm debating taking it apart and removing the 5.25" bracket and the front fan bracket to gain a little more space. The cables and SSD's are just stuck in right now, no sense in prettying it up before I get it sleeved.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Hi all! I'd like to join this awesome club.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


<QUOTESNIP>.... But if I can dump half my fans in the process of WC'ing I'll be a happier camper with lower dBs'.









~Ceadder










This is the main philosophy behind my build... thou shalt be a quiet computer. A quality air cooler on the CPU can run quiet but those stock video card fans are obnoxiously loud when you push the system.

Everyone has their preference... the usual reasons to water cool are: a) to do crazy speed overclocks, b) to obtain super low temperatures because they run 10 radiators, c) for the "Cool" factor, d) to make a system run quiet or e) all of the above.

I'm all for c) and d) thank you


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim;15585752*
> Hi all! I'd like to join this awesome club.


Yeah Green Yeah! (I'm not bias at all *cough*)


----------



## SortOfGrim

@HAFenvy THX







I like those UV fans in your build. Do they cool good? And how silent are they?


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim;15585881*
> @HAFenvy THX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like those UV fans in your build. Do they cool good? And how silent are they?


They work pretty decent and the max speed they run is 1500RPM. I run them at 900rpm so I barely even hear them.

I actually did a test with a Corsair fan just last night (the ones that come with the H80). I powered up one of my spare UV GELID Wing 12s at full speed (1500) and then hooked the Corsair fan to a controller and dialed it down to 1500 to match. The Corsair was a lot noisier and at 2600rpm (max speed) it was like a server fan (Vrrrroooooshhhhzzz). I'm not sure how these would compare against Scythes or other fans but I'm happy with them. (and wanted them for the UV anyway hehe)


----------



## M.IV.E

here is mine









http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/633/dsc00229zj.jpg


----------



## Onions

yo mad res lol put that in a poiler or shrink it lol but anywyas nice build if i could make a reccomendation try hiding the cables that you can see through tthe bottom hd mounts somewhere they look kinda bad bot other then that b-e-a-u-t-y-f-u-l


----------



## M.IV.E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;15598817*
> yo mad res lol put that in a poiler or shrink it lol but anywyas nice build if i could make a reccomendation try hiding the cables that you can see through tthe bottom hd mounts somewhere they look kinda bad bot other then that b-e-a-u-t-y-f-u-l


yea i saw it







. i will hide it when i got time


----------



## Onions

kk lol but you gota stop crashing my interwebz with that massive picture


----------



## M.IV.E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;15598856*
> kk lol but you gota stop crashing my interwebz with that massive picture


lol sorry dude. can't be helped. because it was taken by my camera- sony tx10. i was shocked too when i upload the photo. what a huge file.


----------



## Onions

lolz you did it again yuo can resize it...... on photobucket or what ever or i think even in the fourms here


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M.IV.E;15598872*
> lol sorry dude. can't be helped. because it was taken by my camera- sony tx10. i was shocked too when i upload the photo. what a huge file.


GIMP is your friend.









Well, at least your pic is decent considering the size. A lot of similarly sized pics that get posted here are grainy, blurry, and/or badly lit.


----------



## M.IV.E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;15598947*
> lolz you did it again yuo can resize it...... on photobucket or what ever or i think even in the fourms here


i will replace it with link
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead;15599000*
> GIMP is your friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, at least your pic is decent considering the size. A lot of similarly sized pics that get posted here are grainy, blurry, and/or badly lit.


thanks hehe. i prefer a direct link for now because i gtg soon. no time to resize it


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Did someone mention the holy grail of ATi cards?









Over here, waiter, I'll have one of those, please.


----------



## andytom69

hi,
this is my work


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Here is my new ( second hand ) Cosmos S I picked up for a steal on E Bay. A little window mod and some compression fittings with tygon tubing. I'm definitely addicted.








By hairyhampster at 2011-11-05


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn;15601529*
> Here is my new ( second hand ) Cosmos S I picked up for a steal on E Bay. A little window mod and some compression fittings with tygon tubing. I'm definitely addicted.
> 
> *snip*


why not use the top port on the gpu block so that you dont have a tube going around your card?


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn;15601529*
> Here is my new ( second hand ) Cosmos S I picked up for a steal on E Bay. A little window mod and some compression fittings with tygon tubing. I'm definitely addicted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By hairyhampster at 2011-11-05


why not put the fitting on the top of the card it would use less tubing and look better as well as less turns making it easier on teh pump


----------



## Ceadderman

I could be wrong but it looks like his sound/wireless card is in the way. If you look closely you'll see that the card goes to the end of the slot. Although I do agree it would make things a bit easier.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Onions

the card tahts there is only as high and the vc if you look at the block it extends higher then the card i think it would work


----------



## Greenback

my little bit of pride and joy


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;15599086*
> Did someone mention the holy grail of ATi cards?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over here, waiter, I'll have one of those, please.


Oh holy crap! I saw this on the Egg over the weekend, and I was just floored...

-T


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;15603401*
> why not put the fitting on the top of the card it would use less tubing and look better as well as less turns making it easier on teh pump


Because you cant put 1/2-3/4 comps fittings on top without using a extension, the sound card seems to be in the way.


----------



## Tduckro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;15599086*
> Did someone mention the holy grail of ATi cards?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over here, waiter, I'll have one of those, please.


Sheesh!!! An extra 100 bucks on the price just so Powercolor can install a water block for you. I got mine off OCN for 600, plus 100 for the heatplate and water block +fittings.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016;15604072*
> Oh holy crap! I saw this on the Egg over the weekend, and I was just floored...
> 
> -T


Too bad it's a Power Color card. I don't have anything against them but I would rather have seen ASUS, MSi or XFX put this card out instead. XFX since they seem to enjoy coming out of Left Field with performance goodies. i.e. monitor stand, mouse pad etc.









HELL of a price though! $900 for that card. On a card that is better than any 5970 which was priced around $1200(+/-) a year ago.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tduckro;15604435*
> Sheesh!!! An extra 100 bucks on the price just so Powercolor can install a water block for you. I got mine off OCN for 600, plus 100 for the heatplate and water block +fittings.


Don't forget the single slot cover.

lol.


----------



## Tduckro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k;15604721*
> Don't forget the single slot cover.
> 
> lol.


While I agree that single slot is amazing, I'm not sure if I can justify a 200 dollar price increase for the same performance







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tduckro;15604435*
> Sheesh!!! An extra 100 bucks on the price just so Powercolor can install a water block for you. I got mine off OCN for 600, plus 100 for the heatplate and water block +fittings.


Yeah but that money guarantees your warranty. If you do it yourself you better keep everything and keep the Thermal Pad on some cellophane or wax paper to keep it fresh so you can get the warranty should something go wrong with the card.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15605128*
> Yeah but that money guarantees your warranty. If you do it yourself you better keep everything and keep the Thermal Pad on some cellophane or wax paper to keep it fresh so you can get the warranty should something go wrong with the card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thats why evga is the bomb


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15605318*
> Thats why evga is the bomb


True true but EVGA doesn't make a AMD card so you go with what you know in this instance.









I was just skimming the card a bit ago.

Comes with XFire bridge all connectors and disc. Standard fare. However this one comes with 10mm extenders and 4 barbs with 4 clamps, in both 1/2" and 3/8"... I had to laugh at this "review" however...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neckername*
> Pros: Great performance. Runs cool
> 
> Cons: cheaper to buy an after market water block and put it on a regular HD 6990.
> 
> Other Thoughts: ENTHUSIASTS ONLY


[rant]1)HTH do you know necker? Dude doesn't even own it. Tis an EK Nickel plate block. May have the corrosion issue. Probably not though.

2)Likely but still false due to warranty and accessories. Most cards don't even come with the bridge anymore seeing as how the Mainboard should have one. If you have the money for this card you should have a good platform for it. Simple common sense dictates this.









3)That should go without saying. Only an enthusiast will spend $900 on a Graphics card unless it's for graphics design/rendering applications.

All this brings up my biggest pet peeve with feedback on any site. If you don't own it, do not submit feedback for it. People that do so should take a kick right to their nuts and have to scrub every bit of feedback they personally submitted and THEN they can fall to their knees in agony.Not one moment sooner.[/rant]









Wish I had the money for that card though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tduckro;15604435*
> Sheesh!!! An extra 100 bucks on the price just so Powercolor can install a water block for you. I got mine off OCN for 600, plus 100 for the heatplate and water block +fittings.


Yeah i mentioned it, had bad luck on 2 cards and blocks before so i'd rather pay the 100 euro's instead of throwing away 400 on a 6970 and a block then loose the waranty on the card and seeing it is giving *****elooaads of arifects.

Also the card here in europe at my local shop costs about the same as a 6990 and a block so im actualy not buying an overpriced product.


----------



## wermad

Just picked up a 1" (actually ~ .95-.90") thick block of plexi from the local plastics store for $4. I got some vacation this week, gonna build me a some water cooling parts


----------



## Hogwasher

How would I go about water cooling this card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102913


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher;15609469*
> How would I go about water cooling this card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102913


uni block and heatsinks for the vram and vrm chips.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_587&products_id=29841

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24661


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15609498*
> uni block and heatsinks for the vram and vrm chips.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_587&products_id=29841
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24661


I'm pretty sure he can use a full coverage block for that Board werm. I could always be wrong but I think block manufacturers didn't fall into the same trap they did with the 5*** series Reference/Non Reference cards. But again, I could be wrong.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Modus

Any suggestions for tubing smaller than 3/5 ID:5/8 OD?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15612801*
> I'm pretty sure he can use a full coverage block for that Board werm. I could always be wrong but I think block manufacturers didn't fall into the same trap they did with the 5*** series Reference/Non Reference cards. But again, I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Its a non-reference design, he's gonna need to go uni or a custom made fullcover block.


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;15603767*
> my little bit of pride and joy


Nice clean setup:thumb:, just needs a lil wire management.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modus;15612858*
> Any suggestions for tubing smaller than 3/5 ID:5/8 OD?


Most components and parts you will find off the shelf will be 3/8ID : 5/8OD or bigger so you would probably be best sticking with the typical sizes. You could probably go smaller but finding fittings and barbs will be harder and reduce your available options. Is there a reason why you want smaller tubing? Keep in mind that if you go too small, you will limit your flow rates.


----------



## wermad

You can also do 1/4 tubing but its very unlikely you'll find some compression fittings for that size. Barbs should be available but the selection is slim.

I have to agree with HAFenvy, don't go smaller than 3/8" id tube.


----------



## Ceadderman

Also the increased pressure from running a smaller diameter tube than 3/8 probably wouldn't k00l the system as well due to the subsequent increase in flow rate. Which is why I went with 1/2" for my system. There probably isn't much difference in cooling between 3/8 and 1/2" but I went with 1/2" also due to looks. Half inch compression fittings look much better imho and they aren't much more expensive than the smaller fittings.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010;15603391*
> why not use the top port on the gpu block so that you dont have a tube going around your card?











By hairyhampster at 2011-11-05

Hi Guys the compression fitting I bought wont fit on the other side of the video card, they hit the board. The ones on the GPU block were grinding on each-other to get them on. Not a bad grind but it was tight as a tiger.


----------



## ZeusAudio

Gah I can't decide which 580 block that I want.







Any real difference between blocks like EK, Heatkiller, DD or Koolance or should I just pick a block based on looks?


----------



## cyberbeat

Looks I would say, there really isn't much.
I'd still avoid EK for the time being, there are reports of flaking EN blocks, although i have both EN, and Standard EK blocks and have no problems.
Also don't forget AquaComputer blocks, I have them on my 470s Great blocks


----------



## Systemlord

Danger Den and EK GPU blocks are high flow blocks, the heat killer and AquaComputer blocks are more restrictive. If the EK EN blocks are flaking I'll just buy and pay more for better quality blocks from DD, if EK screws up again with Nvidia's 600 series graphics card nickle blocks they will NEVER recover and people will stay away from garbage nickle plating! I don't think EK realizes how easily us customer's can put them out of business, once you get a bad rap it's hard to recover especially in these hard times!

I fail to see how using distilled water in combination with silver coils cause corrosion...?


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15614147*
> You can also do 1/4 tubing but its very unlikely you'll find some compression fittings for that size. Barbs should be available but the selection is slim.
> 
> I have to agree with HAFenvy, don't go smaller than 3/8" id tube.


i got some 1/4 compressions im looking to sell lol if he trys hard enough and rly wants it they are available... but as stated bro wouldnt recommend going smaller then as stated.... just for the looks fo the thick tubing alone makes it better and the flow rate balances way better with more room


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15612801*
> I'm pretty sure he can use a full coverage block for that Board werm. I could always be wrong but I think block manufacturers didn't fall into the same trap they did with the 5*** series Reference/Non Reference cards. But again, I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I would love to be able to use a full block. That's really the only thing holding me back from doing water


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher;15617366*
> I would love to be able to use a full block. That's really the only thing holding me back from doing water


Cant help you on that card but I see your name is Hogwasher? well you found a job


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*


I would love to be able to use a full block. That's really the only thing holding me back from doing water


Werm has corrected me that it would more than likely be a custom block that I'm thinking of. Considering he's got more experience than I do I would have to defer to his judgement. You might check the EK configurator to see what's available with them and check places like AutoTuning to see what's available.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Los Hog*


Cant help you on that card but I see your name is Hogwasher? well you found a job


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*










By hairyhampster at 2011-11-05

Hi Guys the compression fitting I bought wont fit on the other side of the video card, they hit the board. The ones on the GPU block were grinding on each-other to get them on. Not a bad grind but it was tight as a tiger.


Get a couple 10mm extensions. I would connect the cpu block to the one of the top ports of your gpu. Connect the opposite bottom port to the outlet of the gpu block.

Alternatively, you can get some 45Â° extensions to angle the compression fittings away from each other.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Werm has corrected me that it would more than likely be a custom block that I'm thinking of. Considering he's got more experience than I do I would have to defer to his judgement. You might check the EK configurator to see what's available with them and check places like AutoTuning to see what's available.









~Ceadder










First thing I checked and his card is not listed. Right away you can tell its a non-reference design but just to be sure I checked if this was a "V2" model that sometimes might spring up after the reference design has been out for a while.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZeusAudio*


Gah I can't decide which 580 block that I want.







Any real difference between blocks like EK, Heatkiller, DD or Koolance or should I just pick a block based on looks?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*


Looks I would say, there really isn't much.
I'd still avoid EK for the time being, there are reports of flaking EN blocks, although i have both EN, and Standard EK blocks and have no problems.
Also don't forget AquaComputer blocks, I have them on my 470s Great blocks










Keep in mind which model of GTX 580 you are looking at as well. There have been reports of a reference board design change on some of the Superclock series cards that the Koolance block won't work with. Definitely check out the sites to confirm compatibility with the specific card you are interested in buying. EK Waterblocks has a Cooling Configurator for their blocks.

I have the Koolance block on a 1.5GB EVGA GTX 580 (reference design) and it is a more restrictive design than the Danger Den 285 block I had before. I don't know how the nickle plating issues that have been coming up with some blocks will pan out with my Koolance block but I'm running a premix Feser and no Silver right now. Nickel is higher on the metal reactivity chart than Silver and Copper (which are really close together) so there may be some galvanic reaction happening depending on the state of the fluid used.


----------



## ZeusAudio

I think I'm just gonna go with the copper/acetal EK block for my reference EVGA 580. Like the looks and am looking for low restriction so seems to be what I'm looking for.


----------



## wermad

Evga and some card makers have been removing the heatspreader from the gpu and this leaves a gap between it and most reference blocks.

This is the heatspreader removed from the gpu:










If yours has one, you're good, it not there are solutions or revised blocks available from some block makers.


----------



## Angrybutcher

wermad, I've seen that before on the 580 cards, do you know if any others were affected?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher;15627575*
> wermad, I've seen that before on the 580 cards, do you know if any others were affected?


I read and seems like its legit with EVGA. I heard but can't be certain a couple of other makers were doing the same thing. Let me find the thread.

I know those affected have contacted the block makers. Solutions for those who were s.o.l. was to use a copper shim to fill in that gap.

edit:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1119053-evga-gtx-580-water-block-help.html

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1130299-koolance-evga-gtx580-sc.html


----------



## RushMore1205

Look whats about to go under water in the next couple of days,

believe it or not but those are 580s with 480 heatsinks, gets about 4c lower temps


----------



## Ceadderman

Overkill much...









Haha I know I know they're for Folding but hadda be said nywyz.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15627949*
> I read and seems like its legit with EVGA. I heard but can't be certain a couple of other makers were doing the same thing. Let me find the thread.


Right, I guess my question was more of if you've seen reports of this with other EVGA cards, 570 specifically







I'm pulling the trigger soon on my second.


----------



## RushMore1205

guys if your cards come without heaspreaders let me know i have boxes of them at work, i will hook you up


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;15629333*
> guys if your cards come without heaspreaders let me know i have boxes of them at work, i will hook you up


Where were you earlier when I was shopping for GPU's... The reason I went with EVGA FTW HC2's was so I didn't have to deal with the missing heatspreader issue.


----------



## ZeusAudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;15629333*
> guys if your cards come without heaspreaders let me know i have boxes of them at work, i will hook you up


I will keep this in mind thank you







Also judging by the thread that showed up about the heatspreader on 580's a little bit back, I think my card will have it but definitely bookmarked this page.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15623218*
> Get a couple 10mm extensions. I would connect the cpu block to the one of the top ports of your gpu. Connect the opposite bottom port to the outlet of the gpu block.


Alternatively, you can get some 45° extensions to angle the compression fittings away from each other.

Thanks wermad I have some 45s on the way hopefully here tomorrow.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;15629079*
> Look whats about to go under water in the next couple of days,
> 
> believe it or not but those are 580s with 480 heatsinks, gets about 4c lower temps


Wow! The heatsink on the 480 was something beefy in order to cool the volcano 480.

Any mods to the 480 cooler? I heard that they have very close pcb designs though the heatspreader is taller on the 580 (or is the other way around







)?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser;15629365*
> Where were you earlier when I was shopping for GPU's... The reason I went with EVGA FTW HC2's was so I didn't have to deal with the missing heatspreader issue.


Hey man, those are still ballin' cards!


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman;15629576*
> Hey man, those are still ballin' cards!


True... but it would have been nice to have choice on blocks. At the time, I just didn't want to take a chance on getting cards without a heatspreader. EVGA would have helped if I got one that didn't have one... but they usually give refurbs as a replacement. It would have sucked if I ended up with a refurb after paying NIB prices. Anyhow... I'm still happy with my purchase.


----------



## mav2000

Can someone with a 6950/6970 under an EK block run afterburner for a few minutes and show the gpuz screen? I think I may not be getting optimal contact on my block and need some help figuring this out.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser;15629733*
> True... but it would have been nice to have choice on blocks. At the time, I just didn't want to take a chance on getting cards without a heatspreader. EVGA would have helped if I got one that didn't have one... but they usually give refurbs as a replacement. It would have sucked if I ended up with a refurb after paying NIB prices. Anyhow... I'm still happy with my purchase.


HC2 is a nice package and you won't have to run the risk of rma denial because you used a waterblock. I like how they light up the evga logo though


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000;15629758*
> Can someone with a 6950/6970 under an EK block run afterburner for a few minutes and show the gpuz screen? I think I may not be getting optimal contact on my block and need some help figuring this out.


I ran three heatkillers on unlocked 6950s. At stock clocks (6970 clocks), they maxed out ~40-43c. Oc'd to 950 they maxed out ~47°c.

Are you using all the spacers on the ek block?

btw, sorry for double posting Kev


----------



## Ceadderman

Just so everyone is aware I got the signup sheet posted in the Shin Etsu Bulk buy thread. So it be live peeps. My optimal target is 1001 tubes to get the best discount imaginable on the best TIM on the market.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cchoy87

Where is that thread located?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cchoy87;15629928*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15629866*
> Just so everyone is aware I got the signup sheet posted in the Shin Etsu Bulk buy thread. So it be live peeps. My optimal target is 1001 tubes to get the best discount imaginable on the best TIM on the market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where is that thread located?
Click to expand...

group-buy-3g-tubes-shin-etsu 

Apologies. Forgot to throw the link up.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## andom

This is my first time doing water cooling. Tube discolouration sucks and my cable management is really terrible, but hey, I'm happy with the performance.

I'd like to thank andrewmchugh for helping me pick out the parts, and also, I'd like to thank this website for helping me solve my SLI issue.

You guys are truly the best!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15629549*
> Wow! The heatsink on the 480 was something beefy in order to cool the volcano 480.
> 
> Any mods to the 480 cooler? I heard that they have very close pcb designs though the heatspreader is taller on the 580 (or is the other way around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?


actually the heatsinks are very close i had skip a scre that was missing on the 580

the tall ness is identical


----------



## mav2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15629789*
> I ran three heatkillers on unlocked 6950s. At stock clocks (6970 clocks), they maxed out ~40-43c. Oc'd to 950 they maxed out ~47°c.
> 
> Are you using all the spacers on the ek block?
> 
> btw, sorry for double posting Kev


Well, I am idling at around 30-32 degrees which seems about right, taking into account the water temp is a bit below that. But on load I run at 55-56 degrees, with water temp at around 36-37 degrees. This is while playing BF 3. SO both CPU and GPU are on load.

The block I have is the new version, with metal standoffs, which can be attached to the block.

Anyway it looks like some parts of the card are running very very hot, going up to 80-85 degrees as well. I think something is not right, will pull it apart and check it.


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000;15629758*
> Can someone with a 6950/6970 under an EK block run afterburner for a few minutes and show the gpuz screen? I think I may not be getting optimal contact on my block and need some help figuring this out.


6950 with shaders unlocked running the EN Ek block. All temps are running 40-45 under load.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah the numbers are a bit difficult to read.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden;15630645*
> 6950 with shaders unlocked running the EN Ek block. All temps are running 40-45 under load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: sorry didn't realise the resolution was reduced. Let me know if you cant read the numbers ><


Do you notice any dullness and is the nickle plating flaking off on your EN EK blocks? Anybody else having issues with EN EK blocks? I'm not wanting to have this happen a second time through!

Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Get copper then you won't ever have it happen.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cyberbeat

Needed somewhere to put my PC, while I mod my 800D...
I have no case that can hold all this stuff other than my 800D...


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord;15630873*
> Do you notice any dullness and is the nickle plating flaking off on your EN EK blocks? Anybody else having issues with EN EK blocks? I'm not wanting to have this happen a second time through!
> 
> Thanks


Im not noticing anything with my block. I have noticed a bit of residue built up where the partition part is (I guess I would call it that) but it is from me not flushing my rad very well. And by a little bit I mean I can barley see it when i have my eye on the acylic. I did at first think it could have been the start of this "flaking". Seems to be all good, I was a little scared to get it but they are too smexy.


----------



## Los Hog

@ andom looks great


----------



## ZeusAudio

Hey guys, I was just wondering if a setup like this would work for refining my loop. Thinking of ways that I can add a 240mm rad to my Haf 932. In the pic green are the blocks, red are the rads, blue the res, orange the pump. Also, the pump is a 655 and is mounted upside down in the image. Just looking for overall feedback or other suggestions on how to squeeze in a 240mm rad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> Well, I am idling at around 30-32 degrees which seems about right, taking into account the water temp is a bit below that. But on load I run at 55-56 degrees, with water temp at around 36-37 degrees. This is while playing BF 3. SO both CPU and GPU are on load.
> 
> The block I have is the new version, with metal standoffs, which can be attached to the block.
> 
> Anyway it looks like some parts of the card are running very very hot, going up to 80-85 degrees as well. I think something is not right, will pull it apart and check it.


Vrm(s)? I know these guys can take a lot of heat but I would double check. I have a simple laser thermometer that I can poke and prod the caps and pcb of the gpu. I would highly recommend one since they are cheap (got mine for $10).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

UPDATED!!!! FIRST TIME WITH THE NEW SITE!!!

also: yay for the removal of the permalink vs. post number link issue! now all the links should work all of the time! (at least all new ones)

and thank goodness the old links still work. that could have been the end of this thread, haha.

my only complaint so far: my subscriptions do not seem to work properly. they are all listed as still subscribed, but new posts in the threads are not making them show up in the activity list...


----------



## Boyboyd

Finally got top-mounted barbs for my GPU. Uses about 1m less tubing.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Same here, my subscriptions are all screwed up but I like the new look.

Boyboyd, I would definitely look into cutting down on the plumbing. Remember order does really affect your temps and shorter plumbing means the pump has to work a bit less hard.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Same here, my subscriptions are all screwed up but I like the new look.


I am quickly warming up to it, and there are lots of little quirks that I think will be fixed in the next few days (like the recent activity links linking to the LAST post in a thread instead of the first).

I do think the new site is too bright though, it is hard on the eyes after reading for a while.

As to the subscriptions: I actually took this opportunity to delete all mine and start from scratch (all 2500+ of them I had). now that I have a manageable number of them I see how this new system works. it lists all your threads and just brings ones with recent activity up to the front. with my old subscriptions it was confused and thought EVERY post was an unread post since they had not been read with the new system.

I do really like the addition of the option to go to you last post in a thread, That will be very useful for me in this thread.


----------



## skkhai

Three internal radiators









My Mizu P180B project is pretty much finished but I haven't been inspired to do photo shoot with it yet. I'll probably do a shoot when I tear it down for maintenance next month. Mizu's work log is in my sig.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Evga and some card makers have been removing the heatspreader from the gpu and this leaves a gap between it and most reference blocks.
> 
> This is the heatspreader removed from the gpu:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If yours has one, you're good, it not there are solutions or revised blocks available from some block makers.


Poop... now I will have to take the heatsink off the EVGA GTX-580 I just got in on Monday for my 2nd SLI and check to see what is under the main heatsink. I bought the exact same model (1580-AR) as the one I have now which has the heatspreader. I'll have to sneak it into the system, test it to make sure it functions (and don't have to RMA it) and then yank that GPU heatsink off. I'll let you guys know what I find under the heatsink on this one.


----------



## RushMore1205

my new little test bench, and these things are going under water in a couple of days, full cover blocks


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Poop... now I will have to take the heatsink off the EVGA GTX-580 I just got in on Monday for my 2nd SLI and check to see what is under the main heatsink. I bought the exact same model (1580-AR) as the one I have now which has the heatspreader. I'll have to sneak it into the system, test it to make sure it functions (and don't have to RMA it) and then yank that GPU heatsink off. I'll let you guys know what I find under the heatsink on this one.


Ok, tested the card and it works. It was fun to get into the case without dismantling my loop.... let's just say it went through the power supply opening. This is an EVGA GTX 580 1.5GB Model: 015-P3-1580-AR - the matched card to the one I'm running under water now. Got it from NewEgg just recently and it is a revision 1.0 board (my existing one is a revision 0.0 board). Heatspreader is on this one so I'm happy because that means my Koolance block will work











So as an FYI, it is very easy to just take this heatsink part off. Remove the plastic fan cover piece (small screws around the edge, do not remove any from the back PCB), then the 4 screws (with springs) from the back of the card, wiggle the heatsink and PLOOP off it comes. This is good so you can check it, clean out dust in the fins and fan and put on your favorite TIM if you so desire.


----------



## wermad

^^^


----------



## airnews39

Tried to remove just the shroud like HAFenvy ^^^ but two of the screws nearest the bracket were so tight that I just ended up stripping them.
So I removed the whole heatsink instead of my recently acquired EVGA Gtx 580 SC and it has the heat spreader!!!

So relieved as my XSPC block is on the way and it would have really sucked to have to rma the card especially from South Africa as it would have taken quite some time!


----------



## RushMore1205

so if you RMA the card they will put on the heatspread is that the deal?


----------



## wermad

I know first hand and by working with quite a few cards, get yourself a precision screwdriver set! This avoids striping the screws on your card. The reason these screws don't easily come out is that your are not applying the correct pressure on the screw, too big of a screwdriver, and thread lock. With these screw drivers, you'll be able to easily remove the screws off the gpu. I have a set that cost me a little bit of cash but its a lifesaver. I once tried removing the screws off my old 580s and it was a nightmare with my trusty old philips head screwdriver. Once I found my precision screwdriver, they came out as smooth as butter. Trust me, if you don't have these, get them asap! Avoid stripping the screw, possible rma denial, and damage to your card if you attempt to tap and remove the stripped screw. My











(Note the top piece, it turns freely, this allows you to apply a bit of pressure so the head grabs the screw to break the thread lock)


----------



## airnews39

RushMore - It seems to be the case. If you rma the card they send you a refurb unit

wermad - I did use a precision screwdriver... the other screws came out easily while those two were stuck tight. Couldn't get them to budge no matter what


----------



## wermad

I did three Zotac GTX 580 3gb and all screws with the precision screwdriver came out smoothly. If you are having troubles (for future reference), apply some heat to it. I tried this with my old 6950 (one of three cards) with a heat gun and applying heat gently. You can also put the screws back on and run a gpu intensive test like furmark for a few minutes. I did this on my old Zotac 470s when a couple of screws didn't want to budge from one of three Zotac 470s I had previously.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Same here, my subscriptions are all screwed up but I like the new look.
> Boyboyd, I would definitely look into cutting down on the plumbing. Remember order does really affect your temps and shorter plumbing means the pump has to work a bit less hard.


Got any tips? i cut it down by quite a lot for that picture, it was so horrendous and loopy before.. My loop order goes: pump > gpu > rs360 > cpu > rx240 > res > pump


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Got any tips? i cut it down by quite a lot for that picture, it was so horrendous and loopy before.. My loop order goes: pump > gpu > rs360 > cpu > rx240 > res > pump


Hang the RX240 on the back of the 700D since you're transfer heat from one rad to the other. Turn the RS360 around so the ports are towards the pump (front of the case). It looks like you have a pump/res combo?

Run: pump>rs360>cpu>rx240>gpu>res.

If you have a separate pump (not built in or integrated/installed in the res), move it towards the middle of the case. There's plenty of space there and you can keep the RS360 as is. I would highly recommend to at least relocate that RX240 to the rear fan mount on the 700D.

If you are interested, I've done the bottom rad mod (done an RX240, RX480, and MCR320) just send me a pm for tips on it.


----------



## Beens17

Updated my rig.
Just added the XSPC Rasa Universal GPU block to one of my card.
The 2nd one will go under water on my b-day at march for sure !

Also re-did the tubing and loop
Now it goes like that: Res\Pump->RX360->CPU->GPU->Res\Pump

One thing i noticed is that the tubing that comes with the XSPC kit is garbage!
Only 1 week in use and it's already yellow-ish.
So i will change to primochill when i add the 2nd card to the loop.

Here are the pictures:


----------



## bundymania

Halloween is over....but it´s Time for a Monster again !


----------



## Los Hog

What in the heck are you up to now bundy?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey, does anyone know if it is possible to remove a subscription to a thread from that thread itself?


----------



## RussianJ

I <3 thick rads. Bundy, your going to make me replace my RS360 with something stupid big.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, only wish I could mount that in the top of my 932 w/o modification. Well maybe not that one. I need 25mm thick Rads to keep my setup out of the window.









~Ceadder


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Got any tips? i cut it down by quite a lot for that picture, it was so horrendous and loopy before.. My loop order goes: pump > gpu > rs360 > cpu > rx240 > res > pump
> 
> 
> 
> Hang the RX240 on the back of the 700D since you're transfer heat from one rad to the other. Turn the RS360 around so the ports are towards the pump (front of the case). It looks like you have a pump/res combo?
> 
> Run: pump>rs360>cpu>rx240>gpu>res.
> 
> If you have a separate pump (not built in or integrated/installed in the res), move it towards the middle of the case. There's plenty of space there and you can keep the RS360 as is. I would highly recommend to at least relocate that RX240 to the rear fan mount on the 700D.
> 
> If you are interested, I've done the bottom rad mod (done an RX240, RX480, and MCR320) just send me a pm for tips on it.
Click to expand...

Ironically, i used the have the 240 hanging off the back. I'm not really in watercooling for maximum performance anymore, i just want it to be cool enough and as near silent as possible.

I'd love to fit the 240 in the bottom. I've tried it, but it simply won't fit without modding. An RS might. I don't feel confident enough to mod the bottom yet, and i've got no idea where i'd put my hard drives.


----------



## jdangond

Updated rig...switched over to Intel 2600k from an AMD 970 (huge difference) and upgraded gpu


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Looks good Jdangond:thumb:


----------



## kevink82

Little update all the parts are in my new rig, still testing 5 ghz at the moment.


----------



## BWG

Kev, you can't right now.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Ironically, i used the have the 240 hanging off the back. I'm not really in watercooling for maximum performance anymore, i just want it to be cool enough and as near silent as possible.
> I'd love to fit the 240 in the bottom. I've tried it, but it simply won't fit without modding. An RS might. I don't feel confident enough to mod the bottom yet, and i've got no idea where i'd put my hard drives.


You should have plenty of space on the middle drive cage, then there's the drive bays. As far as modding the bottom, you can put an RX240 with either push or pull fans. I have an MCR320 and its ~35mm thick (RX series are 58mm) so I'm running push/pull down there. Check out these vids on how to remove the bottom cage and prep your 700D for the bottom rad. You'll be loosing just 2 hdd spots.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9Ovlo1uwk0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc6Cr7G4S6E&feature=relmfu


----------



## rockcoeur

I scewed up in this post, sorry...


----------



## Winrahr

Finished it a while ago but never got to post here. Better late than never...













Worklog is in my sig


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Gorgeous build!









Why that connector on the bottom card, is that how you drain the loop?


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*
> 
> Gorgeous build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why that connector on the bottom card, is that how you drain the loop?


Thanks. Yep it's my drain valve. Originally mounted on the pump but moved there to act as a 90 degree fitting.


----------



## Hogwasher

This would be able to handle a CPU and a GPU right? What about Crossfire?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14183/ex-wat-182/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?id=6hBnQaqC


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> This would be able to handle a CPU and a GPU right? What about Crossfire?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14183/ex-wat-182/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?id=6hBnQaqC


For CF radiator will be enough. Pump not so much. For single card you are in good shape.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> For CF radiator will be enough. Pump not so much. For single card you are in good shape.


Thanks for the help +rep


----------



## loganvt

New to the community! One of the many stages of my first LC build a did a while back:



Worklog: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?189797


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> This would be able to handle a CPU and a GPU right? What about Crossfire?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14183/ex-wat-182/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?id=6hBnQaqC


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> For CF radiator will be enough. Pump not so much. For single card you are in good shape.


I ran this pump briefly with: cpu, mb, and three gpu blocks. I wouldn't recommend no more than three blocks (ie, cpu and two gpus). This pump performs on par with the mcp 655-*B*. Reliability is not the greatest but I know xspc has top notch customer service.

Amd cards and the newest nvidia 5xx series run quite cool. I ran briefly a cpu and three gpus on the rx360. Temps were decent on my three old Zotac 470s.

The only thing to consider to change in this kit, if you don't have a lot of money to burn, is the tube. Everything else is off the shelf stuff that works quite nicely (pump reliability again is iffy, though xspc will take care of you







).


----------



## mm67

My latest build


----------



## Ceadderman

Very nice mm67. But if you put that in a 912 you'd be able to mount the Rad to the fan and remove the middle cage.









Too bad Cooler Master didn't do that with all their HAFs'.









~Ceadder


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Ok, tested the card and it works. It was fun to get into the case without dismantling my loop.... let's just say it went through the power supply opening. This is an EVGA GTX 580 1.5GB Model: 015-P3-1580-AR - the matched card to the one I'm running under water now. Got it from NewEgg just recently and it is a revision 1.0 board (my existing one is a revision 0.0 board). Heatspreader is on this one so I'm happy because that means my Koolance block will work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as an FYI, it is very easy to just take this heatsink part off. Remove the plastic fan cover piece (small screws around the edge, do not remove any from the back PCB), then the 4 screws (with springs) from the back of the card, wiggle the heatsink and PLOOP off it comes. This is good so you can check it, clean out dust in the fins and fan and put on your favorite TIM if you so desire.


Is there a way to remove the fan?


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm pretty sure the fan is part of the plastic bracket. Once the bracket comes off the fan comes right along with it. I could be wrong though.









~Ceadder


----------



## airnews39

Yip by removing the screws from the back of the PCB the whole heatsink & fan can be removed.


----------



## Forsaken_id

And once you take the black assembly off, if you want to reuse it without the fan, the fan comes off after taking another 2 screws out.


----------



## Ceadderman

But only for the GPU block right? Not the FC block as the plastic would prolly interfere with the block unless it was modded.









The plastic, not the block.









~Ceadder


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the fan is part of the plastic bracket. Once the bracket comes off the fan comes right along with it. I could be wrong though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airnews39*
> 
> Yip by removing the screws from the back of the PCB the whole heatsink & fan can be removed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*
> 
> And once you take the black assembly off, if you want to reuse it without the fan, the fan comes off after taking another 2 screws out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But only for the GPU block right? Not the FC block as the plastic would prolly interfere with the block unless it was modded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plastic, not the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not sure if I understood the right thing, but if I remove the entire black "heatsink", I can remove the fan by unscrewing 2 screws, then put it back without the fan? Cause I'd like to use the card with only a universal GPU block and the black thing as the heat spreader instead of the little things with fins you have to buy.


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> Finished it a while ago but never got to post here. Better late than never...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worklog is in my sig


I don't normally like blue themed builds, but I have to say, this really came out nice! Good job!

P.S. That video really looks professional! Might have to hire you when I finish my build!


----------



## bundymania

Under Construction !


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> Not sure if I understood the right thing, but if I remove the entire black "heatsink", I can remove the fan by unscrewing 2 screws, then put it back without the fan? Cause I'd like to use the card with only a universal GPU block and the black thing as the heat spreader instead of the little things with fins you have to buy.


I'm not sure how effective the aluminum heatsink assembly (Black part) would be as a passive heatsink with no airflow. You have to remember there is the plastic shroud over top of the entire assembly which forces all the airflow from the fan to blow across the black heatsink assembly and go through the fins of the GPU heatsink block. The fan is also literally above a section of chips that have thermal pads for contact with the heatsink assembly.

When you do remove the black assembly but want to reuse it, be careful not to lose the really tiny pieces of thermal tape that cover 6 very small chips at the fan end of the card. In mine there are 3 large pads (that each cover sets of 6 chips) and then next to those are 6 tiny pads specifically for some small chips next to those groupings of 6. The thermal pads on those are tiny and easy to lose.

EDIT: And yes the two screws are there for removal of the fan from the assembly (one is slightly hidden by a thermal pad)


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> Under Construction !


White plastic looking blocks, do not want.


----------



## dimwit13

well here is my second entry here.
just finished this last weekend and started OCing it.


































if you go to the link "Not an HTPC" in my sig, you can see the build log.

time to start the thought process on the next one.

-dimwit-


----------



## Angrybutcher

That wood fascia is pretty cool. Would love to see a wood covering of some sort on that side panel


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> That wood fascia is pretty cool. Would love to see a wood covering of some sort on that side panel


i made a wood side panel for the other side-see log.
i also made wood panel for this side.
i figured since i put the work in on the inside, why not show it off.

-dimwit-


----------



## george_orm

that wood is so nice, very very awesome


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> Finished it a while ago but never got to post here. Better late than never...
> 
> 
> 
> Worklog is in my sig


Sick build!! I love it!


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> This would be able to handle a CPU and a GPU right? What about Crossfire?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14183/ex-wat-182/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?id=6hBnQaqC
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> For CF radiator will be enough. Pump not so much. For single card you are in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I ran this pump briefly with: cpu, mb, and three gpu blocks. I wouldn't recommend no more than three blocks (ie, cpu and two gpus). This pump performs on par with the mcp 655-*B*. Reliability is not the greatest but I know xspc has top notch customer service.
> 
> Amd cards and the newest nvidia 5xx series run quite cool. I ran briefly a cpu and three gpus on the rx360. Temps were decent on my three old Zotac 470s.
> 
> The only thing to consider to change in this kit, if you don't have a lot of money to burn, is the tube. Everything else is off the shelf stuff that works quite nicely (pump reliability again is iffy, though xspc will take care of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
Click to expand...

Yeah think I'm going to get this kit with white tubing, just may have to do some modding to get it to fit in the top of my nzxt phantom.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> This would be able to handle a CPU and a GPU right? What about Crossfire?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14183/ex-wat-182/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?id=6hBnQaqC
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> For CF radiator will be enough. Pump not so much. For single card you are in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I ran this pump briefly with: cpu, mb, and three gpu blocks. I wouldn't recommend no more than three blocks (ie, cpu and two gpus). This pump performs on par with the mcp 655-*B*. Reliability is not the greatest but I know xspc has top notch customer service.
> 
> Amd cards and the newest nvidia 5xx series run quite cool. I ran briefly a cpu and three gpus on the rx360. Temps were decent on my three old Zotac 470s.
> 
> The only thing to consider to change in this kit, if you don't have a lot of money to burn, is the tube. Everything else is off the shelf stuff that works quite nicely (pump reliability again is iffy, though xspc will take care of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
Click to expand...

Yeah think I'm going to get this kit with white tubing, just may have to do some modding to get it to fit in the top of my nzxt phantom.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Danzilla

Here is my rig again, it had to be rebuilt as one of the pump housings blew apart 2 weeks ago and wet everything. So I figured while I was pulling everything apart I would install bigger rads and more fans and move all the hosing around and sleeve everything along with modding the case some more.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hey! just noticed we passed 15000 posts! go us


----------



## lightsout

w00t!

Nice dual loop Danzilla.


----------



## Danzilla

Thanks Lightsout, it took ages to work out how to get it all to fit nice without putting anything outside the case and with no kinks in the hose







it works great now, I average only 10 degrees above ambient which I think is pretty good.
Now all I stress about is the pump housings giving out again, to anyone using the koolance COV-RP450 put some thread lock on the metal end cap of the pump housing so it doesnt come off


----------



## RushMore1205

bored just messing with the camera


----------



## EnticingSausage

Will be getting a 580 and adding it to the loop at christmas (hopefully)


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> Not sure if I understood the right thing, but if I remove the entire black "heatsink", I can remove the fan by unscrewing 2 screws, then put it back without the fan? Cause I'd like to use the card with only a universal GPU block and the black thing as the heat spreader instead of the little things with fins you have to buy.


Correct, you can reuse it. That is what i thought you were doing, otherwise you would just remove it and toss it in a box in one piece.


----------



## micul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> bored just messing with the camera


nice one


----------



## B-Roll

Hey all, I need some help/advice. I recently got another 6970 for my machine and am about to get a block for it to add it to my loop.

First question - Right now my loop is a 360 rad, MCP655 pump cooling a CPU and 1 GPU. I'm told I will be ok with this same setup with adding another GPU. Thoughts? I wouldn't need a 2nd smaller rad right? At the moment, nothing is overclocked. Normally I have my CPU @ 4.2.

Second question - I've been looking at bridges/links/etc and I need some advice on the best way to get my 2nd GPU into the loop. I have an ASUS Crosshair V board so the 2 16x slots are pretty far apart. I THINK I need a 3-slot bridge. And I'm told I would need to get a blank link to close up the holes in the middle holes not being used. Those that are unfamiliar with the CHV, here is the PCI setup.










The 1st GPU is in the first slot (obv) and the 2nd one will be going in the 5th PCI slot (2nd from the bottom)

Any help is appreciated.

Also thinking about starting another rig since SB-E is out and may get a Silverstone TJ11B case or a Xigmatek and hook it up real nice with a decked out loop. Can't wait!

Thanks again!

And I've posted this already but here's my current setup :]


----------



## nickbaldwin86

nvm


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B-Roll*
> 
> Hey all, I need some help/advice. I recently got another 6970 for my machine and am about to get a block for it to add it to my loop.
> First question - Right now my loop is a 360 rad, MCP655 pump cooling a CPU and 1 GPU. I'm told I will be ok with this same setup with adding another GPU. Thoughts? I wouldn't need a 2nd smaller rad right? At the moment, nothing is overclocked. Normally I have my CPU @ 4.2.
> Second question - I've been looking at bridges/links/etc and I need some advice on the best way to get my 2nd GPU into the loop. I have an ASUS Crosshair V board so the 2 16x slots are pretty far apart. I THINK I need a 3-slot bridge. And I'm told I would need to get a blank link to close up the holes in the middle holes not being used. Those that are unfamiliar with the CHV, here is the PCI setup.
> *snip*
> The 1st GPU is in the first slot (obv) and the 2nd one will be going in the 5th PCI slot (2nd from the bottom)
> Any help is appreciated.
> Also thinking about starting another rig since SB-E is out and may get a Silverstone TJ11B case or a Xigmatek and hook it up real nice with a decked out loop. Can't wait!
> Thanks again!
> And I've posted this already but here's my current setup :]
> *snip*


ek makes a series or parallel bridge for 3 slots its called "FC bridge 3-slot dual serial (or parallel)"


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *micul*
> 
> nice one


Please quote one pic or add "snip"!!!!!!

Sold the Raystorm, got a new cpu block, and added some acrylic to the bottom of the case. Did this last mod to route the air away from my face


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I like the green for Nvidia wermad!


----------



## SilverSS/SC

Like it Wermad.....Very nice!


----------



## Danzilla

Love the green Wermad, I still cant get over how versatile the 800D is if only it was a bit wider and longer


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks good werm. I think I'm getting a 250 Advanced to connect up to the dual ddc block. Can't wait to get it all together.









So when we gonna see that bit of modded acrylic?









~Ceadder


----------



## mannyfc

has an ek-dcp 4.0 with a swiftech mcres behind the MB tray

EK HF and an RS360 with high speed yates.. kinda loud but really do the job



loads at like 60 MAX like this basically at 1.5v untill i figure out this whole 1155 thing and i can turn down the voltage a little.

eventually looking to add another 360 at the top and wc 2 480's but by then I'll probably just get a newer card or two depending on cash flow


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ZeusAudio

Hey guys, do you think that a 360mm and 120mm rad would be enough to cool a GTX 580 at around 1.15-1.20 V and a 2500k at around 1.4-1.45 V? Just wondering how much rad space I need for my loop. No plans on adding SLI so is a total of 120x480 enough for this setup you think?


----------



## Danzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeusAudio*
> 
> Hey guys, do you think that a 360mm and 120mm rad would be enough to cool a GTX 580 at around 1.15-1.20 V and a 2500k at around 1.4-1.45 V? Just wondering how much rad space I need for my loop. No plans on adding SLI so is a total of 120x480 enough for this setup you think?


That should be enough put the 120 after the CPU to chill the water back down before heading it back into the GTX580. So Res>pump>360RAD>CPU>120RAD>GTX580>Res


----------



## Qasual

Quick picture.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qasual*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick picture.


Trying to look at your quick pic... but your avatar is distracting me.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I like the green for Nvidia wermad!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC*
> 
> Like it Wermad.....Very nice!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzilla*
> 
> Love the green Wermad, I still cant get over how versatile the 800D is if only it was a bit wider and longer


Thanks guys. I highly recommend Mayhems for the best balance of uv and normal light. I'm going to try to get a shot of the gpus with some uv light in the next few days.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks good werm. I think I'm getting a 250 Advanced to connect up to the dual ddc block. Can't wait to get it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So when we gonna see that bit of modded acrylic?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Still working on it. First attempt to cut a thick slab of acrylic went south using a jigsaw (works great on acrylic sheet). I tried a band saw but I need to calibrate it since it cut the acrylic at an angle. Alas, had a nasty accident involving my right thumb and a blade







. Once I heal up, I'll be trying to cut a new piece of acrylic with either a table saw or the band saw.


----------



## Qasual

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Trying to look at your quick pic... but your avatar is distracting me.


Hahahaha


----------



## Qasual

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Trying to look at your quick pic... but your avatar is distracting me.


Hahahaha


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *micul*
> 
> nice one


thanks man, appriciate it im pulled the plug on the same cards as wermad has just SLI though not trisli


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeusAudio*
> 
> Hey guys, do you think that a 360mm and 120mm rad would be enough to cool a GTX 580 at around 1.15-1.20 V and a 2500k at around 1.4-1.45 V? Just wondering how much rad space I need for my loop. No plans on adding SLI so is a total of 120x480 enough for this setup you think?


From what I understand, one 120 Rad per component should be enough. So if you only run 3 components, one 360 should be enough. So yes your idea is sound.









@Qasual... Kewl Avvy! I had to look closer at it. I thought it was static being picked up by the kitteh, but upon closer review noticed he's kickin stick figur azz.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Good old times


----------



## HAFenvy

Nothing beats a dose of bundymania photo posts when you want to be distracted by shiny things.


----------



## Angrybutcher

My only gripe with Bundy's photos, are the ones with the white background. To me, it makes the item look CG, photoshopped or more of a Stock Photo and not actually his.


----------



## GoodInk

So basically you are saying because he has skills with a camera and knows how to edit them to look good you don't like them.


----------



## bundymania

You know what...just little contrast/brightness editing were made by freeware programm photo filtre







i have no expensive editing prg. camera: canon ixus 70 .... lights: 10 eur lamp from ebay.

Some of the older pics made by a 2 Megapixel Canon A200









from 2007:


----------



## ohms

Can I join the club?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Danzilla

Damn OHMS thats sexy as, wish we could get Case Labs cases in Australia


----------



## Ceadderman

Who makes Matte Black tubing?









That tubing looks uber smecsy.










~Ceadder


----------



## GoodInk

Tygon has 2 types, but I'm not sure what brand ohms is using as that tubing doesn't have any markings or they are well hidden.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10485/ex-tub-645/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_12_ID_58_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s172

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10487/ex-tub-647/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_12_ID_34_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s172


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> So basically you are saying because he has skills with a camera and knows how to edit them to look good you don't like them.


That's not what I'm saying at all. He does a great job with them. Zero background just doesn't look natural to me.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> That's not what I'm saying at all. He does a great job with them. Zero background just doesn't look natural to me.


Zero background can make it easier to focus on the subject and more control over how it's lit?







I get what you mean though. I personally like how electronics looks against wood.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Bundy, how many rigs do you have?

Too many to count?


----------



## ohms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Tygon has 2 types, but I'm not sure what brand ohms is using as that tubing doesn't have any markings or they are well hidden.


Heh, I sanded off the markings









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Who makes Matte Black tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That tubing looks uber smecsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


They are A-60G Neoprene 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD tubing.


----------



## Cuar

I know it's external, but I just don't have the gut's nor the skill to cut my 800D up yet. Maybe when I'm ready for a new case ill try. Any way here are some pictures of what I'm adding to my build. Waiting on 3 more GT-15's

Also looking for a new fan controller with 10 or more channel's. Anyone have any input?


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cuar*
> 
> I know it's external, but I just don't have the gut's nor the skill to cut my 800D up yet. Maybe when I'm ready for a new case ill try. Any way here are some pictures of what I'm adding to my build. Waiting on 3 more GT-15's
> 
> Also looking for a new fan controller with 10 or more channel's. Anyone have any input?


Why so many channels? You could get a heavier fan controller that is capable of more wattage per channel and put several fans on individual channels instead. ie: the Sunbeam Rheobus fan controller can do 20W per channel.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cuar*
> 
> I know it's external, but I just don't have the gut's nor the skill to cut my 800D up yet. Maybe when I'm ready for a new case ill try. Any way here are some pictures of what I'm adding to my build. Waiting on 3 more GT-15's
> Also looking for a new fan controller with 10 or more channel's. Anyone have any input?


Two *Lamptron Touch* has 6 channels capable of 30 watts per channel, two would give you 12 channels!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohms*
> 
> Can I join the club?


Looks great ohms!


----------



## Cuar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Why so many channels? You could get a heavier fan controller that is capable of more wattage per channel and put several fans on individual channels instead. ie: the Sunbeam Rheobus fan controller can do 20W per channel.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Two *Lamptron Touch* has 6 channels capable of 30 watts per channel, two would give you 12 channels!


I didnt think I could really do that. a 30W controller can handle more then one GT-15? I already have a Lamptron FC-2 and Touch in my PC. I know they have 30W per channel, so if thats the case ill just throw the 6 new fans on my FC-2


----------



## EnticingSausage

30w per channel can handle at least 3 GT's no problem, havent tried more.


----------



## Infernosaint

GT AP-15's are like 1 W at max. I have 4 on each channel on my cheap Zalman controller. It takes like 7W per channel, so I'm not even stretching it.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cuar*
> 
> I didnt think I could really do that. a 30W controller can handle more then one GT-15? I already have a Lamptron FC-2 and Touch in my PC. I know they have 30W per channel, so if thats the case ill just throw the 6 new fans on my FC-2


yea, you could probably put ALL of your GT's on a SINGLE 30w channel. most fans use very little power compared to something like a pump or any of your core components.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Good old times


What the hell is this? Cylon watercooling?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cuar*
> 
> I know it's external, but I just don't have the gut's nor the skill to cut my 800D up yet. Maybe when I'm ready for a new case ill try. Any way here are some pictures of what I'm adding to my build. Waiting on 3 more GT-15's
> 
> Also looking for a new fan controller with 10 or more channel's. Anyone have any input?
> 
> 
> 
> Why so many channels? You could get a heavier fan controller that is capable of more wattage per channel and put several fans on individual channels instead. ie: the Sunbeam Rheobus fan controller can do 20W per channel.
Click to expand...

Sunbeam Rheosmart does 30wpc not 20.









~Ceadder


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> What the hell is this? Cylon watercooling?


Looks like this one : http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2553


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Look whats about to go under water in the next couple of days,
> 
> believe it or not but those are 580s with 480 heatsinks, gets about 4c lower temps


Hey I spot something funny in that photo.
are thsoe two cars on the left the new version of the 560Ti? they have dual SLI connectors so cant be a 590 or 560.., but looks like the cooler on the 560/590.


----------



## Cuar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> yea, you could probably put ALL of your GT's on a SINGLE 30w channel. most fans use very little power compared to something like a pump or any of your core components.


Damn well the FC-2 can run 40w per channel. The Touch is 30w. I think Ill put the 6 new fan's on my FC-2 with the case fans.


----------



## Angrybutcher

More stuffs! Draining the loop tonight and finally getting my RMA done for the QDCs in my loop. Should be back under water next week.....or if I feel like a full drain twice, maybe this week still


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sunbeam Rheosmart does 30wpc not 20.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yup, two different model controllers... Rheosmart is 30W, Rheobus is 20W.

In regards to the fans, the standard power formula is king.... 12V x (Fan Amperage) = Wattage. So my GELID Wing 12s, draw 0.1A (according to spec) so are basically 1.2W a piece. Toss in some conservative buffer by rounding up a bit to say 1.5W and you can quickly figure out what you could slap onto a controller. Just look up your fan specs to see how much they use and go from there.

Keep in mind, the more wattage you push through a channel when you dial it down (slow speeds), the higher the amount of heat you will create as it tries to deal with that power load. That is why those controllers have big heatsinks on them versus cheaper controllers that can't handle a larger load. For simplicity, I would put say a set of 6 fans (push/pull triple rad) on a single channel and the other fans on the other channels. Keep the load spread out a bit.

It is just like a power supply, just because a PSU can handle 750W doesn't mean you want to run it at full capacity all the time.









EDIT: Though if you want the convenience of having all your fans on one channel and it can definitely take the load with room to spare, go for it if that is what you want


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> Hey I spot something funny in that photo.
> are thsoe two cars on the left the new version of the 560Ti? they have dual SLI connectors so cant be a 590 or 560.., but looks like the cooler on the 560/590.


It could be a 570 HD. Those have the center fan and would have dual SLI connectors


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> More stuffs! Draining the loop tonight and finally getting my RMA done for the QDCs in my loop. Should be back under water next week.....or if I feel like a full drain twice, maybe this week still


Why did you chose the SC over the Classified?


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> More stuffs! Draining the loop tonight and finally getting my RMA done for the QDCs in my loop. Should be back under water next week.....or if I feel like a full drain twice, maybe this week still
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quot
> 
> Why did you chose the SC over the Classified?
> 
> 
> 
> Probably went for the price
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze_hellivo*
> 
> Why did you chose the SC over the Classified?


Honestly I thought the Classified was the HD board. I have a reference SC currently and did not want two different blocks. Looking at it further, it seems the 570 Classified has the same PCB as reference.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> Hey I spot something funny in that photo.
> are thsoe two cars on the left the new version of the 560Ti? they have dual SLI connectors so cant be a 590 or 560.., but looks like the cooler on the 560/590.


good eye myfriend


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sunbeam Rheosmart does 30wpc not 20.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, two different model controllers... Rheosmart is 30W, Rheobus is 20W.
> 
> In regards to the fans, the standard power formula is king.... 12V x (Fan Amperage) = Wattage. So my GELID Wing 12s, draw 0.1A (according to spec) so are basically 1.2W a piece. Toss in some conservative buffer by rounding up a bit to say 1.5W and you can quickly figure out what you could slap onto a controller. Just look up your fan specs to see how much they use and go from there.
> 
> Keep in mind, the more wattage you push through a channel when you dial it down (slow speeds), the higher the amount of heat you will create as it tries to deal with that power load. That is why those controllers have big heatsinks on them versus cheaper controllers that can't handle a larger load. For simplicity, I would put say a set of 6 fans (push/pull triple rad) on a single channel and the other fans on the other channels. Keep the load spread out a bit.
> 
> It is just like a power supply, just because a PSU can handle 750W doesn't mean you want to run it at full capacity all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Though if you want the convenience of having all your fans on one channel and it can definitely take the load with room to spare, go for it if that is what you want
Click to expand...









Not that I want a zillion fans per channel. My proclivity for LED fans just makes one with high watt per channel output essential.









Here's some water cooling that cannot be beat... well okay it can only cause your rig gets wet it's non functional.











There is a road where that big white patch is and at the furthest point between here and the hills is the Highway.









~Ceadder


----------



## andytom69

Hi, this is my new look
http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/_201111/20111103233844_IMG_0036.JPG
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfzWSa-KvlM


----------



## Denim-187

Oww some gorgeous rigs in the house.
I didn't really get to put my loop together for it was my first one.. Im deffinately doin the next one myself!

I'm using:

Koolermaster 360 cpu block
Koolermaster UV red liquid
EK res
EK 400 pump
Black Ice GTX gen2 Extreme Rad (2x 240mm)
Tygon tubing
Bitspower fittings







Never really thought about putting blocks on the GPU's since ive never had a heating problem (75c max ever temps on 99% full load) plus them Radeon reference blocks fit well in to the theme.
Well thats my loop, let me in









Sent from iPhone4s using Tapatalk


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> It could be a 570 HD. Those have the center fan and would have dual SLI connectors


I should have thought of that!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> good eye myfriend


indeed


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denim-187*
> 
> Oww some gorgeous rigs in the house.
> I didn't really get to put my loop together for it was my first one.. Im deffinately doin the next one myself!
> I'm using:
> Koolermaster 360 cpu block
> Koolermaster UV red liquid
> EK res
> EK 400 pump
> Black Ice GTX gen2 Extreme Rad (2x 240mm)
> Tygon tubing
> Bitspower fittings
> Never really thought about putting blocks on the GPU's since ive never had a heating problem (75c max ever temps on 99% full load) plus them Radeon reference blocks fit well in to the theme.
> Well thats my loop, let me in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from iPhone4s using Tapatalk


I had three 6950s unlocked to 6970s and on water they never went beyond ~40c at 100% load. The noise is atrocious on the stock amd cooler, that was enough for me to get my cards on water.


----------



## Denim-187

Mine dont' sound bad at all, actually theyre pretty silent... And yeh 40c is great.... But un-required. Graphics cards are designed to withstand 100c + so im well below @ 70. i gotta admit tho, them GPU blocks in the loop look rather amazing









Sent from iPhone4s using Tapatalk


----------



## 12Cores

Updated Pics with better Camera.





Going to watercool the 5770's, with the fanspeed set to 80 they are getting too loud for my liking.


----------



## Eagle1337

Got my first loop up and running ^_^



Something went screwy with my camera here.. i think it was the leds..


my back after many many zip ties










my small collection of case badges...

Twas awesome fun setting this thing up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denim-187*
> 
> Mine dont' sound bad at all, actually theyre pretty silent... And yeh 40c is great.... But un-required. Graphics cards are designed to withstand 100c + so im well below @ 70. i gotta admit tho, them GPU blocks in the loop look rather amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from iPhone4s using Tapatalk


I'm always a little surprised on folks who actually don't mind the reference, annoying, loud, jet-taking off, hair drier, amd and nvidia coolers. Well, the theory is: less heat, possible prolonged life. I see it like a car engine: the cooler it is the happier and better performer it will be. A great example was my old Zotac 470s; all three would not go any higher than 700 core on the stock cooler. Once on water, my personal best was 860. Even if I threw all the voltage allowed they would still crash on the stock cooler. With the 6950/70s, same thing, they wouldn't even touch 900 core without crashing. On water, I got them up to 950 but then I sold them since I had a lot of headaches with the amd drivers and I really couldn't push them to their max. There are alternative gpu air coolers that are far better than the reference turbine cooler. Trust me, once you get your cards on water, you'll love it. Wait a bit more when the 7xxx series launches, you'll see a 6xxx series on sale and so will their water blocks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Denim-187*
> 
> Mine dont' sound bad at all, actually theyre pretty silent... And yeh 40c is great.... But un-required. Graphics cards are designed to withstand 100c + so im well below @ 70. i gotta admit tho, them GPU blocks in the loop look rather amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from iPhone4s using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I'm always a little surprised on folks who actually don't mind the reference, annoying, loud, jet-taking off, hair drier, amd and nvidia coolers. Well, the theory is: less heat, possible prolonged life. I see it like a car engine: the cooler it is the happier and better performer it will be. A great example was my old Zotac 470s; all three would not go any higher than 700 core on the stock cooler. Once on water, my personal best was 860. Even if I threw all the voltage allowed they would still crash on the stock cooler. With the 6950/70s, same thing, they wouldn't even touch 900 core without crashing. On water, I got them up to 950 but then I sold them since I had a lot of headaches with the amd drivers and I really couldn't push them to their max. There are alternative gpu air coolers that are far better than the reference turbine cooler. Trust me, once you get your cards on water, you'll love it. Wait a bit more when the 7xxx series launches, you'll see a 6xxx series on sale and so will their water blocks.
Click to expand...

I think it was the owner not the 6950s'.









j/k









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Bundy, how many rigs do you have?
> Too many to count?


Errrm....i guess....between 8 - 11 atm incl. Laptops / Netbook









Oldschool Week continues


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Bundy, how many rigs do you have?
> Too many to count?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Errrm....i guess....between 8 - 11 atm incl. Laptops / Netbook
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oldschool Week continues
Click to expand...

Love the H2O grill in the back


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Classics of water cooling right there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

http://www.overclock.net/t/1159792/project-pipebomb
New build from me......


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> Got my first loop up and running ^_^
> 
> 
> Something went screwy with my camera here.. i think it was the leds..
> 
> my back after many many zip ties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my small collection of case badges...
> Twas awesome fun setting this thing up.


WHAT ARE THOSE BLACK AND GREEN FANS??????????????????

on another note, spent all night taking my 3 computers apart, for cleaning, and upgrading, its trickled down, one computer got rid of gt9800 and got gtx460 SLI under water, that computer that had that got gtx470sli underwater, and the computer that had that is getting GTX580 3gb SLI under water
oh yeah and i just got a turtore rack that has SLI 560 TI, man these things will rack points, and electricity

FOLDING BABY!!!!!!!!!!


















i guess you can tell that i like red


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


*Drool* - that would be awesome for a Steampunk build but I just love the clear reservoir and raw look of that radiator.

And as far as what Wermad said earlier, I totally agree that once you toss the air coolers off the Video cards and go water, you'll never go back. There is something about enjoying the peace when pushing a computer hard while playing a game and not having to put on headphones so you can actually hear what you are playing. I water cool to make my machine quiet... the additional cooling capacity and bling effect is added bonus


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> WHAT ARE THOSE BLACK AND GREEN FANS??????????????????


Probably the same ones I have... GELID Gamer Wing 12 UV Reactive 120mm.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Probably the same ones I have... GELID Gamer Wing 12 UV Reactive 120mm.


do they have LEDs?????


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> do they have LEDs?????


The Wing 12 ones I have are just UV with no LEDs in them. They do have ones out now that come with LEDs in them though: GELID Wing 12 PL - this is also a PWM fan


----------



## Eagle1337

since I was asleep HAF envy was able to ninja me! the LEDs (pl) ones are nice but they lose the water resistant factor from what i've heard, then again I figure it's the LEDS that do that. They also have 140mm fans too







Newegg usually has the 120 gelids wings for like 20$ though. Here's a brighter shot on the inside.. yes i know it needs cleaning.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> since I was asleep HAF envy was able to ninja me! the LEDs (pl) ones are nice but they lose the water resistant factor from what i've heard, then again I figure it's the LEDS that do that. They also have 140mm fans too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg usually has the 120 gelids wings for like 20$ though. Here's a brighter shot on the inside.. yes i know it needs cleaning.


20$ wow at that price might as well get some Gentle Typhoons and paint them lol


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> 20$ wow at that price might as well get some Gentle Typhoons and paint them lol


Yeah, I got mine for 12$ from ncix







but I haven't seen that price in a good 6 months+


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## lowfat

Finished my new server build. 2600k going to be replacing an A6-3650 rig.


----------



## Ceadderman

Who uses Milk of Magnesia for their coolant?









j/k dude looks awesome. I'm not into dyes but that looks just awesome.









Yate Loons PWN everything! CHEAP FANS FTW!!!









~Ceadder


----------



## Hoodz

My first solo adventure of building my own computer and my own water cooling.


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*












Very nice sir!


----------



## lowfat

Why are my pics showing up so effing huge? They aren't actually that big.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yate Loons PWN everything! CHEAP FANS FTW!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Untill they fall apart, which mine are doing.


----------



## HAFenvy

I used the GELIDs mainly because I wanted the UV green and they had decent specs. Now that I have them, I have to say they are quiet and perform quite well for my needs. I've been running the same ones for 2yrs now and they are still as good as when I bought them. I just looked up some Yate Loons from my local shop and the highest CFM one they carry is 45CFM... the Wing12s I have are 65CFM and were the same price (cause I got them on sale). CFM FTW! LOL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yate Loons PWN everything! CHEAP FANS FTW!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Untill they fall apart, which mine are doing.
Click to expand...

Everything falls apart Mate.









At least they're cheap so you're not out an @zzload of money replacing them.









It's not like all the other fans on the market are made of solid gold and have diamond encrusted LEDs' in them after all.









I've ordered 3 new ones for my Radiator. Soon as I sell my HandiRifle I'll be picking up more watercooling gear. Love my rifle but I don't shoot it 24/7 whereas my system is Folding 24/7 while I do other things on it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Blue Marker

Update for member #320 Blue Marker


----------



## Los Hog

Very nice


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Here's my foray into watercooling - a used H70 as a front-mounted intake.



The radiator fans are mismatched for right now - the Corsair fans have short cables, so the push is an Antec Tri-Cool. Are mismatched radiator fans a big deal, or should I get another Tri-Cool?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

god I love pc-v2010b's...

Updated


----------



## RushMore1205

so upset they have discountinued making all backplates, hapy i got the last ones, but realy mad they never made the nickel ones,

now i have to go to a chrome shop and get them super shiny chromed, or maybe i will powdercoat them whtie for the new case im working on later down the road


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> Here's my foray into watercooling - a used H70 as a front-mounted intake.
> *snip*
> The radiator fans are mismatched for right now - the Corsair fans have short cables, so the push is an Antec Tri-Cool. Are mismatched radiator fans a big deal, or should I get another Tri-Cool?


Too bad your H55 board can't overclock. At least your temperatures will be effortlessly low.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> so upset they have discountinued making all backplates, hapy i got the last ones, but realy mad they never made the nickel ones,
> now i have to go to a chrome shop and get them super shiny chromed, or maybe i will powdercoat them whtie for the new case im working on later down the road


You'll be really happy with that block on that card. Temps are awesome!


----------



## RushMore1205

Yeah can't wait to see how these blocks do. Next is the parralle bridge


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Yeah can't wait to see how these blocks do. Next is the parralle bridge


The nickel looks great!
Oh I see you will be running those in Nvida surround! Have you joined the club? See my sig for a link. Playing BF3 on those bad boys? I'm running at 5760x1080 all high settings. Get 30-60FPS depending on the environment. Game is harsh on your GPUS! No Vram bottleneck with 3GB though!


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Too bad your H55 board can't overclock. At least your temperatures will be effortlessly low.




http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2103635

Huh. News to me.









I've been running at 4GHz since August, and running 24/7 with [email protected] at that since Oct. 1st.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice sir!


+1000


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> The nickel looks great!
> Oh I see you will be running those in Nvida surround! Have you joined the club? See my sig for a link. Playing BF3 on those bad boys? I'm running at 5760x1080 all high settings. Get 30-60FPS depending on the environment. Game is harsh on your GPUS! No Vram bottleneck with 3GB though!


Been part of the club for a long time

Bf3 is the whole reason I upgraded from 470


----------



## kevingreenbmx

awesome... I am up till 5:00 am working on homework and my pump dies... anyone have a spare 355 or 35x they can overnight me? I have no backup for my desktop...

edit:

Wanted add:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1169423/355-35x-ddc-etc-pump-wanted-overnight-or-next-day


----------



## ChosenLord

New Set up...


----------



## kamikaze_

Hmm, those solid caps looked suspicious and made me have second thoughts on editing my post.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Hmm, those solid caps looked suspicious and made me have second thoughts on editing my post.


Solid Caps? i guess you're referencing to an earlier post?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> awesome... I am up till 5:00 am working on homework and my pump dies... anyone have a spare 355 or 35x they can overnight me? I have no backup for my desktop...
> 
> edit:
> 
> Wanted add:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1169423/355-35x-ddc-etc-pump-wanted-overnight-or-next-day


Go here...

bmavs world of pumps. 


*extra fan pins not required

I'm sure he would overnight ya one if you worked it out but they come right to you on the double quick and come with a hand writting pinout schematic. They are't 3 or PWM pinned but they have the pins you just need the connector and have to put them where they need to go. And the price is right so you can get a couple of them for that JiC moment like now.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

thanks, but I already pulled the trigger on a new 35x this morning. If I had extra money though I probably would grab one of those.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, I plan on grabbing a few more for those JiC moments.

Got the blockoff plate for the EK dual ddc block so I don't have to have a single top for testing purposes now. Although I think it may have served me better to get the 2nd top. UPS is outrageous for a blockoff plate screws and o-ring. Especially the amount of time it took to get here. Not that I'm complaining about one of our own helpin me out. This is specifically a UPS wth are ya thinkin with that price moment.











$16 shipped give or take.









~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

just finished the water cooled upgrade today. got 2 gtx460's in sli in water now. idle at 24, full load at 35.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> just finished the water cooled upgrade today. got 2 gtx460's in sli in water now. idle at 24, full load at 35.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


Those specs are depressing, how all of that water cooling would go to waste on a 750i motherboard and an old Q8300. :/
My old XFX nForce 750i could not overclock, but I still had a damn good CPU to put in that socket anyway (QX9650).
Does your 750i motherboard overclock at all? Don't get me wrong, your build looks like a beast, just needs to make use of the overkill water cooling and all of those radiators.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Those specs are depressing, how all of that water cooling would go to waste on a 750i motherboard and an old Q8300. :/
> My old XFX nForce 750i could not overclock, but I still had a damn good CPU to put in that socket anyway (QX9650).
> Does your 750i motherboard overclock at all? Don't get me wrong, your build looks like a beast, just needs to make use of the overkill water cooling and all of those radiators.


well i gotta rock solid cpu oc from 2.5 to [email protected] i can push it to 3.53 but it'll bsod within a couple hours of heavy gameplay. the "ftw" version had better oc's than the regular chipsets let alone an xfx; i actually love my 750i. my 460's are clocked to 950/1900/[email protected] rock solid as well. get 45-50 fps average on skyrim with maxed out settings. 46-48 average bf3 ultra settings with 2x aa. for how old this rig is except the 460's, it actually keeps up pretty damn well.

though i do plan to build a completely new rig from december till march, with ivy bridge being the last piece to the puzzle


----------



## kibet85

Jus a little modding here n there....n wallah...


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kibet85*
> 
> 
> 
> Jus a little modding here n there....n wallah...


Wow talk about a tight fit









IMO that blue PCB ruins it, it would look so much nicer with a matte black PCB and black (sleeved) wiring


----------



## kibet85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Wow talk about a tight fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO that blue PCB ruins it, it would look so much nicer with a matte black PCB and black (sleeved) wiring


Yeap...really tght fit....as for the board n proc ...dont worry...m working on getting SB...to replace it,,..


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*
> 
> New Set up...


Nice build! Like the red hoses.
How many fan controllers you have 2x 6? You have 12 fans in there?!


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kibet85*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Wow talk about a tight fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO that blue PCB ruins it, it would look so much nicer with a matte black PCB and black (sleeved) wiring
> 
> 
> 
> Yeap...really tght fit....as for the board n proc ...dont worry...m working on getting SB...to replace it,,..
Click to expand...

It would look really good with some white tubing! Just a thought


----------



## Angrybutcher

SLI install complete! Check out my build log for more.


----------



## LiquidHaus

looks great butcher! perfect theme imo.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Thanks! In a few months, I'm debating on a tubing change. Either blue, or the Neorprene matte black look. Leaning toward blue as black may be too dark,and my replacement pump boards in the mail will have blue LEDs installed.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> I don't normally like blue themed builds, but I have to say, this really came out nice! Good job!
> P.S. That video really looks professional! Might have to hire you when I finish my build!


Thats because blue is the generic colour for PC builds IMO.

I'm trying to move to purple for that very reason.


----------



## erayser

Since I officially completed my first build, I guess I can post my pics here now.


----------



## RushMore1205

My freaking pump just died. Man thisday could not get any bettee


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Thanks! In a few months, I'm debating on a tubing change. Either blue, or the Neorprene matte black look. Leaning toward blue as black may be too dark,and my replacement pump boards in the mail will have blue LEDs installed.


Green Green Green! (not bias at all)--- Green! hehe.


----------



## andygoyap

have a new update for you guys.. just a few pictures.. shots taken @ lan party yesterday!

Please note i removed the front bezels on my case on this pictures:


















New CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm:









New front plate!!









zoom-ish on the hardware









If people don't understand the symbols above my real name it's..


















a friend playing dota 2 on my computer

















Hope u guys like it~
as always more pictures here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1133437/tj11-single-loop-dominator-sandy-tri-sli-gtx-580-build


----------



## Triangle

Looks nice..!









BTW. Love your last name...


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow that looks Epic Andy.









I can't even imagine lugging my HAF around to a LAN Party much less an FT07 fully under water. Awesome!









~Ceadder


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> SLI install complete! Check out my build log for more.


Do you have 3 blocks being cooled by 1 120 rad? Or am i missing something?

Looks really really neat too.


----------



## Agueybana_II

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Do you have 3 blocks being cooled by 1 120 rad? Or am i missing something?
> Looks really really neat too.


He got one 360 on Top of case and the 120 on back is on his log. It seems only 120 on the back. Looks super clean, like the green looks good on the black







. why change it tired of green?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow that looks Epic Andy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't even imagine lugging my HAF around to a LAN Party much less an FT07 fully under water. Awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


TJ11


----------



## Ceadderman

Oops. Still that's a monster of a case to lug round to LAN parties.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Do you have 3 blocks being cooled by 1 120 rad? Or am i missing something?
> Looks really really neat too.


As Agueybana mentioned, there is a 360 on top as well, which you can't see in the picture







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II*
> 
> He got one 360 on Top of case and the 120 on back is on his log. It seems only 120 on the back. Looks super clean, like the green looks good on the black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . why change it tired of green?


Looking at a tube change due to the replacement PCBs I'm getting for my pumps. They come with pre-installed blue LEDs. I suppose I could see about swapping with green or UV LEDs instead.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Nice build! Like the red hoses.
> How many fan controllers you have 2x 6? You have 12 fans in there?!


11.. They Are Lamptron FC2's, I have 2 Delta 48W Fans in there... just in case...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Since I officially completed my first build, I guess I can post my pics here now.


Love the mod to the side panel, may do that to mine, looking great.


----------



## djcaramelo

AMD FX 5120 Silenx air tower cooled
Gigabyte 970A UD3
8GB 2000 DDR3 RAM (4x2gb) 2x water cooled
500GB Western Digital 7200RPM 32MB
Asus Radeon 5450 512MB DDR5 water cooled
Roswill PSU 80 plus Bronze 630W total/730W peak
Samsung DVD writer 22X burn +-
Roswill 2.5" 47 card reader
1x Fire Wire PCI-E 1x adapter
1x WIFI wireless G adapter Netgear
1x 5.1/2" water recervoir
2x Radiators 1 120mm, 1 80mm
1x UV cold cathod lamps
1x Water pump Termal Take 12v .9A
1x Logisys UV blue transparent case 3x 80mm multy color fans w/ fan controller
1x fan controller FC3


*VIDEOS*


----------



## Triangle

SilenX....


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djcaramelo*
> 
> AMD FX 5120 Silenx air tower cooled
> Gigabyte 970A UD3
> 8GB 2000 DDR3 RAM (4x2gb) 2x water cooled
> 500GB Western Digital 7200RPM 32MB
> Asus Radeon 5450 512MB DDR5 water cooled
> Roswill PSU 80 plus Bronze 630W total/730W peak
> Samsung DVD writer 22X burn +-
> Roswill 2.5" 47 card reader
> 1x Fire Wire PCI-E 1x adapter
> 1x WIFI wireless G adapter Netgear
> 1x 5.1/2" water recervoir
> 2x Radiators 1 120mm, 1 80mm
> 1x UV cold cathod lamps
> 1x Water pump Termal Take 12v .9A
> 1x Logisys UV blue transparent case 3x 80mm multy color fans w/ fan controller
> 1x fan controller FC3
> *snip*


thats just awful *insert smiley puking on other smiley here*


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> thats just awful


----------



## Haze_hellivo

what the hell was that?!!
The video wasnt good but the spam at the ending is just terrible.


----------



## Danzilla

Ahh come on, Im having no luck with this system at the moment..... first my Koolance pump housing splits apart and soaks my parts in koolance now my koolance quick disconnects are leaking and not shutting off when disconnected.









Ahhh I hate RMAing stuff


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzilla*
> 
> Ahh come on, Im having no luck with this system at the moment..... first my Koolance pump housing splits apart and soaks my parts in koolance now my koolance quick disconnects are leaking and not shutting off when disconnected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ahhh I hate RMAing stuff


your common denominator seems to be koolance lol


----------



## Danzilla

Tell me about it apart from there compression fittings and blocks there stuff sucks!! 3 out of 4 sets of quick disconnects leak.







contemplating just doing away with them all together.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzilla*
> 
> Tell me about it apart from there compression fittings and blocks there stuff sucks!! 3 out of 4 sets of quick disconnects leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> contemplating just doing away with them all together.


Their RMA process so far is pretty easy. I have a box behind me with 3 sets of QDC's suffering from the leak problem. They have announced it is a known issue, and will even pay for shipping when you RMA.


----------



## Danzilla

I didn't buy mine directly from Koolance unfortunately I bought them from an Australian supplier PCCasegear







hopefully they don't need to keep me waiting because they have to return them to Koolance in the US first.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> My freaking pump just died. Man thisday could not get any bettee


Join the club... I made sure I had no work to do this weekend so I could relax and do things like play games. and my pump dies friday morning...


----------



## Danzilla

dude that sucks so bad, I went out friday morning and bought BF3 thinking I would get some quality time in and then this happens







so no PC for the next week or so, i think my system has been online for a solid 2 days in the last month


----------



## Danzilla

we could merge our 2 broken systems together and have one working one














:thumb:


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzilla*
> 
> we could merge our 2 broken systems together and have one working one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:


if i read correctly then you still wouldn't have a pump







sorry to hear about that though, definitely sucks.


----------



## Ceadderman

You guys misfortunes just convinced me to buy 2 more pumps from bmav when I buy my 2nd one. I want any issue that may crop up to be as seamless as possible. Would still have to drain my loop but downtime should be minimal at worst.









~Ceadder


----------



## Danzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> if i read correctly then you still wouldn't have a pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry to hear about that though, definitely sucks.


I have a dual loop system so we still have one working pump


----------



## bmelf

Beastified


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzilla*
> 
> I have a dual loop system so we still have one working pump


haha super dual rig loop!


----------



## Danzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> haha super dual rig loop!


Thats the plan







2 systems one loop 90000000 rads and one pump zero pressure drop


----------



## Triangle

I should build a w/c'd ITX rig... lol


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Their RMA process so far is pretty easy. I have a box behind me with 3 sets of QDC's suffering from the leak problem. They have announced it is a known issue, and will even pay for shipping when you RMA.


This is disappointing news as I have plans to buy QDC soon, is this known problem being fixed soon? This is the first time I've heard of a problem with Koolance QDC, or is it?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Daz over at DAZ Mode showed off a really nice set of QDCs'. Instead of push in and twist they're pull back and part. If you've ever seen pneumatic lines and how air tools are connected and disconnected, it's the same principle. I don't remember the manufacturer or when they're due out, but if I were to consider buying QDC that would be what I would buy.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> This is disappointing news as I have plans to buy QDC soon, is this known problem being fixed soon? This is the first time I've heard of a problem with Koolance QDC, or is it?


As far as I know, they corrected their manufacturing process a month or two ago. What that means for items in store stock, I have no idea.


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> I should build a w/c'd ITX rig... lol


I actually want to do that so badly. I have this thing for SFF builds, while all my friends are like "LOL MOAR BIG IZ BETTER"


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> As far as I know, they corrected their manufacturing process a month or two ago. What that means for items in store stock, I have no idea.


I'll just order directly from Koolance, and ask them to send me the new stock.


----------



## javaneze

Small update.
Gave up the hafx for a 650D.
I went for a smaller loop so I removed the gtx580 block and added an accelero plus II.
Looks like a beast.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Small update.
> Gave up the hafx for a 650D.
> I went for a smaller loop so I removed the gtx580 block and added an accelero plus II.
> Looks like a beast.


How would you compare the accelero to water? Looks sweet too, I'm not a HAF fan but I am a 650D fan


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> I actually want to do that so badly. I have this thing for SFF builds, while all my friends are like "LOL MOAR BIG IZ BETTER"


I should place this w/c'd itx rig in my main rig case and all... lol


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> How would you compare the accelero to water? Looks sweet too, I'm not a HAF fan but I am a 650D fan


Well I'm not OCing the card so I never really cared about temps.
The reason I put it underwater in the first place was for the noise alone.
I couldn't stand the reference cooler while gaming.
The accelero is very quiet even @100% rpm.
Overall the system is very quiet as I went from eight fans in the hafx (3 of them 200") to four on the 650D.

Temperature-wise, the card idles at 36C and maxes out at around 60-65C while gaming ( 73-78C under furmark) with the accelero.
Thats about 10C over the max temps I saw under load with the waterblock. Idle temps were about the same.


----------



## bundymania

New Week....new pics


----------



## Ceadderman

Bundy, I wanna wake up tomorrow and have your job.









I'm assuming that's a 4x140 XSPC Rad?









~Ceadder


----------



## DirectOverkill

Mine latest achievement


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Small update.
> Gave up the hafx for a 650D.
> I went for a smaller loop so I removed the gtx580 block and added an accelero plus II.
> Looks like a beast.


is the a figurine of SPAWN??????? man where do i get one of those, we have the same theme going ,i freaking love it


----------



## wermad

@ Bundy

XSPC RS480???


----------



## Twoogle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ Bundy
> XSPC RS480???


Looks like the new EX series of rads.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twoogle*
> 
> Looks like the new EX series of rads.


4th pic from top shows "XSPC"


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 4th pic from top shows "XSPC"


The XSPC EX Series







With the "split fins" as they call it


----------



## Kamakazeekevin

This Thread makes me want to redo my whole loop. I think Ill wait till the 7970s come out and do it them. Gonna go with plexi tops on everything that I can and get some Mayhem's dye.


----------



## Rafael Vale

Hey bundy!!! Any information about Alphacool Silentbox?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> The XSPC EX Series
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the "split fins" as they call it










Thought I saw "EK"









so its the "EX480" or "EX560"???


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rafael Vale*
> 
> Hey bundy!!! Any information about Alphacool Silentbox?


Here is info...
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1019_Alphacool-Laing-DDC-SilentBox.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Are those pumps that loud? What's the point if they aren't?









~Ceadder


----------



## Stormblitz

Updated.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twoogle*
> 
> Looks like the new EX series of rads.


Yep,it´s the XSPC EX480


----------



## kamikaze_

Didn't know OCZ released Dominator modules.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are those pumps that loud? What's the point if they aren't?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Loudness seems to be subjective at times, but no they are not loud enough (if decoupled right) to need a box like that. I think it would just heat the pump up for premature failure.


----------



## wermad

Looks like Bundy's pic shows a DDC 3.2 (blue wire, 3/8 fixed barb top). Mine has never been noisy. In fact, I check it once in a while to ensure it still spinning.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


How big are these rads in scale, I first thought they were AC units!


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> is the a figurine of SPAWN??????? man where do i get one of those, we have the same theme going ,i freaking love it


Thanks mate! I 've checked your worklog before, love your awesome bloody build too









The figurine is from the reborn series of Spawn, this one.
lol, I'm pretty sure that if I can get one in Greece, you most probably can get one in California


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like Bundy's pic shows a DDC 3.2 (blue wire, 3/8 fixed barb top). Mine has never been noisy. In fact, I check it once in a while to ensure it still spinning.


It all depends on how well they are mounted. I had one that was so loud that I could hear it in the other room, but when i remounted it in a different place with some dampening it was silent.


----------



## Quo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap*
> 
> have a new update for you guys.. just a few pictures.. shots taken @ lan party yesterday!
> Please note i removed the front bezels on my case on this pictures:


Excuse my newby questions, but even though my current build is badass, it is air cooled. My next build I am starting to save up for I am definitely water cooling the whole thing and budgeting nowhere. With your build as inspiration, what kind of case is that? How did you get is customized?

I am pretty keen on the water cooling aspect due to my immense research, but I am trying to understand a few modding decisions I have seen. Like, I don't know how you got the wires blue etc... did you sleeve them?

Last question would be, where is the pump? Is it in the bay area with the reservoir?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quo*
> 
> Excuse my newby questions, but even though my current build is badass, it is air cooled. My next build I am starting to save up for I am definitely water cooling the whole thing and budgeting nowhere. With your build as inspiration, what kind of case is that? How did you get is customized?
> I am pretty keen on the water cooling aspect due to my immense research, but I am trying to understand a few modding decisions I have seen. Like, I don't know how you got the wires blue etc... did you sleeve them?
> Last question would be, where is the pump? Is it in the bay area with the reservoir?


Silverstone TJ11 on the left, NZXT Phantom on the right. The silverstone doesn't require much modding since its designed to stick the rads at the bottom. The psu cables can sleeved individually or you can buy extensions in a few colors (including blue). He has a log but I can't find it at the moment, but if you search in the water section you can find it.

Water cooling is highly customizable. You can start off with a case designed for water cooling, from mild to extreme. Or any case and mod it (modding also can be mild to extreme) for water cooling. It really depends on how much money you are willing to spend. If you have a couple of grand just for water cooling, you can get a bad-arse system (non including main components) like Andy's.

What are you planning to water cool and what is your projected budget? I can give you some suggestions, again, depending on your budget.









-wermad


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quo*
> 
> Excuse my newby questions, but even though my current build is badass, it is air cooled. My next build I am starting to save up for I am definitely water cooling the whole thing and budgeting nowhere. With your build as inspiration, what kind of case is that? How did you get is customized?
> I am pretty keen on the water cooling aspect due to my immense research, but I am trying to understand a few modding decisions I have seen. Like, I don't know how you got the wires blue etc... did you sleeve them?
> Last question would be, where is the pump? Is it in the bay area with the reservoir?


more pics if you want more
http://www.overclock.net/t/1133437/tj11-single-loop-dominator-sandy-tri-sli-gtx-580-build


----------



## Ceadderman

Just click on any of his avvies in the thread and it will show you a way to his build log werm.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just click on any of his avvies in the thread and it will show you a way to his build log werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Meh, I'm still not used to the new layout and the slowness......









@ Bundy, I like to heatexchangers. Who makes them?


----------



## Quo

You guys are real cool here. I'd bake you my famous cookies if you were here.

My budget for my next build including components will probably be around $3-4K. I was planning on spending about 2K on parts and the rest on water cooling.

I plan on cooling everything besides the HD and ram. But, like I said, my current system is great and this is for my next years build. But I want to start learning now, this way when build time comes, I will be experienced enough to avoid a sloppy first timer.

I am pretty sure I understand what brands are top notch and what I should get. But correct me if I am totally out of wack here. I wanted to go with all EKWB blocks, running two loops. One through the motherboard and CPU and another through the GPU. Probably would have GT fans (since I own three already) attached to the rads. Or maybe I should run one loop?

The one thing that gives me anxiety and wanting to learn more, is the additional modding. I notice on a few builds that make my eyes light up, that there are some kind of GPU chipset covers that really make the inside pop. Is there a specific site you all go to get addition aesthetic modding stuff as such?

Also, I am big on customization. How the hell did you get your name on your case like that?

P.S. TJ11 pretty much holds the crown for top case atm right? I think I read that on Toms recently.


----------



## subtec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ Bundy, I like to heatexchangers. Who makes them?


Aquacomputer Airplex Gigant, more pics and info


----------



## Ceadderman

@Quo... $3-$4k? You better cool the RAM and your HDD or I'm gonna Force punch you in your girlie parts.









If I had that kind of budget I'd roll my system in honey and diamonds.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quo*
> 
> P.S. TJ11 pretty much holds the crown for top case atm right? I think I read that on Toms recently.


Case Labs and Little Devil V8 are much better water coolers than the TJ11 imo. I have to admit that the TJ11 is a nice looking case but for the $600 tag you can a much better case to go all out. I'd also recommend Mountain Mods for a water cooling case; they can even also custom make one for you.


----------



## Systemlord

I would have purchased the LD V8 if it could fit two 140mm radiators preferably a 4x140mm or at least two 480mm rads in the bottom section! I also heard the LD cases use flimsy panels that makes up the case plus no mobo tray. I don't like cube shaped case, it just doesn't look right! My 2 cents.


----------



## Quo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I would have purchased the LD V8 if it could fit two 140mm radiators preferably a 4x140mm or at least two 480mm rads in the bottom section! I also heard the LD cases use flimsy panels that makes up the case plus no mobo tray. I don't like cube shaped case, it just doesn't look right! My 2 cents.


Yeah, I would like to keep my world rectangle as well. :O

But I still want to know how he got his name engraved. That is just plain bad ass.


----------



## Schaden

Specs
CPU: 2500k
GPU: 6950 (unlocked shaders)
Motherboard: Zotac Z68 ITX WIFI
RAM: Corsair Vengence 8gb 1600Mhz
Case: Lian Li PC-Q08

Watercooling Gear
CPU: Custom waterblock
GPU: EK 6970 acrylic top
Mosfet: Koolance MVR-40 + 67mm plate
Chipset: Heatkiller NSB Ni
RAM: Bitspower Universal Module
Pump: EK 4.0
Radiators: XSPC EX 240 + 120

Just waiting on my mosfet and chipset blocks from america and then this beast will be put together.


----------



## Quo

I am eager to watercool now lol. Should I just water cool my current system and just pick up the TJ11 with a second GTX570 and Corsair ATX1200?

Maybe new ram? I am trying to avoid getting another motherboard I guess. But I am still on SATA II. Is it worth me starting to WC with these specs?

Here is my current system:

I7 930
Corsair Dominator DDR3 1066 6GB
EVGA 570GTX
EVGA X58 SLI LE
Corsair 850W Modular
Corsair Force Series 3 120GB
WD Caviar Black 1TB


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quo*
> 
> I am eager to watercool now lol. Should I just water cool my current system and just pick up the TJ11 with a second GTX570 and Corsair ATX1200?
> Maybe new ram? I am trying to avoid getting another motherboard I guess. But I am still on SATA II. Is it worth me starting to WC with these specs?
> Here is my current system:
> I7 930
> Corsair Dominator DDR3 1066 6GB
> EVGA 570GTX
> EVGA X58 SLI LE
> Corsair 850W Modular
> Corsair Force Series 3 120GB
> WD Caviar Black 1TB


Not really the forum for this, but you do not need more than your 850 for SLI 570's and your CPU. My HX750 is running my heavily OC'd 2500k and SLI 570's without issue. My current peak power under full load (BOINC on CPU and both GPUs) is pulling 625 watts from my UPS.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Not really the forum for this, but you do not need more than your 850 for SLI 570's and your CPU. My HX750 is running my heavily OC'd 2500k and SLI 570's without issue. My current peak power under full load (BOINC on CPU and both GPUs) is pulling 625 watts from my UPS.


I don't understand? you say he needs more than 850w but then you state that you have two 570s and you only have 750w? 625w? so you think that the 930 he has is pulling 225 more watts then your system?

utterly confused... and I know for a fact that 850 watts will work... I messed around with a system on a kill-o-watt metter just week ago that had a 920 @ 4.2 and two 570s and never went over 750watts and he has 4+ HDDs

I would recommend at least a 850 but if you can get more it will be worth the head room


----------



## AMC

Finally Got everything up and running well. Will be trying to fit the res inside somehow in the next little while.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> I don't understand? you say he needs more than 850w but then you state that you have two 570s and you only have 750w? 625w? so you think that the 930 he has is pulling 225 more watts then your system?
> utterly confused... and I know for a fact that 850 watts will work... I messed around with a system on a kill-o-watt metter just week ago that had a 920 @ 4.2 and two 570s and never went over 750watts and he has 4+ HDDs
> I would recommend at least a 850 but if you can get more it will be worth the head room


Wait what? Re-read my comment.


----------



## Quo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Wait what? Re-read my comment.


QFT


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quo*
> 
> QFT


That's constructive


----------



## wermad

850w is fine for sli 570s. Its the recommended minimum for sli 580s.

Quo, if you plan to run Quad 570s, then get the 1.2kw, even a quality 1kw unit will suffice. You could probably pull off tri sli 570s on the 850w unit but I would keep away from suicide oc'ing. I know some units like the HX850 can pull up to 1kw with no issues.

When I had my triple 580s 3gb, they pulled 1.3kw at load on the kill-a-watt. Factor in efficiency of my old Enermax 1.25kw psu and it was pulling ~900-1kw.

If you have no plans to go beyond sli 570s, spend your money on the water setup and/or a nice ssd.

Also, look into the Xigmatek Elysium case; it has really good water cooling support and its ~$200. I was going to pick one up but I couldn't sell my modded 800D (which btw, I was able to stick in two RX480 rads







). It has support for 140mm rads and 120mm as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oooooh I wanz one. Who makes a 1.5kw PSU. MOOOOOOOOAAAAR POWARZ!!! I can just see it now, I boot up and neighborhood lights dim.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oooooh I wanz one. Who makes a 1.5kw PSU. MOOOOOOOOAAAAR POWARZ!!! I can just see it now, I boot up and neighborhood lights dim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder



Enermax 1500w

Silverstone 1500w

Ultra 1600w

Thermaltake

When you are ready for quad gtx 480s or 580s


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oooooh I wanz one. Who makes a 1.5*kw* PSU. MOOOOOOOOAAAAR POWARZ!!! I can just see it now, I boot up and neighborhood lights dim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enermax 1500w
> 
> Silverstone 1500w
> 
> Ultra 1600w
> 
> Thermaltake
> 
> When you are ready for quad gtx 480s or 580s
Click to expand...

Pretty sure nobody but the military has one of those bad boys. 1.5 Kilowatts is a lot of power.







heheh

~Ceadder


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure nobody but the military has one of those bad boys. 1.5 Kilowatts is a lot of power.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heheh
> ~Ceadder


Isn't 1.5kw=1500w?

1.5 x 1000 = 1500?


----------



## num1son

Check out this build log. 2x 1.5kw Enermax's:
Phatboy69 Quad 580s


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I would have purchased the LD V8 if it could fit two 140mm radiators preferably a 4x140mm or at least two 480mm rads in the bottom section! I also heard the LD cases use flimsy panels that makes up the case plus no mobo tray. I don't like cube shaped case, it just doesn't look right! My 2 cents.


You can fit 2 480mm RADs in the bottem, thats how I have mine now. The case is solid, not a flimsy bit on it. Also the mobo tray is removeble.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Any other details on this thing yet? How are the fans setup? I am afraid to know what the price is.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure nobody but the military has one of those bad boys. 1.5 Kilowatts is a lot of power.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heheh
> ~Ceadder


There's a 2kw unit out there too








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Isn't 1.5kw=1500w?
> 1.5 x 1000 = 1500?


Seems right








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Check out this build log. 2x 1.5kw Enermax's:
> Phatboy69 Quad 580s


This, Phat has an awesome build. I'm so jelli of it


----------



## Triangle

Who has one of them PSU bracket/extenders? How far does it make your PSU stick out the back?


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quick question my water is I guess heating up a bit. Would I be able to put a couple icecubes into the res? or would I have to buy a chiller? If so where should I buy one?


----------



## Triangle

Putting an icecube in your res would be like putting tap water in your loop...
No.. Don't do it.

http://www.aquatuning.us/index.php/cat/c189_Chillers.html

I don't really know why you want a chiller, but idk..


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> Putting an icecube in your res would be like putting tap water in your loop...
> No.. Don't do it.
> http://www.aquatuning.us/index.php/cat/c189_Chillers.html
> I don't really know why you want a chiller, but idk..


Chilling the water should help with temps shouldn't it?


----------



## Triangle

Yeah... What are your temps?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Chilling the water should help with temps shouldn't it?


Absolutely not , who told you that?


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Chilling the water should help with temps shouldn't it?


Until the ice starts melting and little pieces break off and go into the pump. I wouldn't.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> Yeah... What are your temps?


CPU: 43C idle in a 25C ambient room and 69C load.
GPU: 25C idle in a 25C ambient room and 56C load.

Its just not cool enough for me.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> Until the ice starts melting and little pieces break off and go into the pump. I wouldn't.


Sorry for double post but thats what I asked my stepdad and he said it would be fine. I thought it would be wise to ask OCN first.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> Until the ice starts melting and little pieces break off and go into the pump. I wouldn't.


What are his water temps now?
I don't see a use of spending 350-$500 on a chiller... Just my opinion


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> CPU: 43C idle in a 25C ambient room and 69C load.
> GPU: 25C idle in a 25C ambient room and 56C load.
> Its just not cool enough for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> What are his water temps now?
> I don't see a use of spending 350-$500 on a chiller... Just my opinion


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> Who has one of them PSU bracket/extenders? How far does it make your PSU stick out the back?


I do









Not counting the angled power cord and the thumbscrews, 60mm. I'm using the Lian Li one. This allows my to stick in a 360mm rad at the bottom of my case


----------



## Tipless

sub 60 gpu temps under load and sub 50 temps cpu under load


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sub 60 gpu temps under load and sub 50 temps cpu under load


I spy a gumball machine


----------



## mironccr345

Ice cubes would be a bad idea, unless you freeze distilled water into ice cubes, but then again, I've never tried it. A chiller would work, check out lvl8Hacker's video. He got really cool temps using a water chiller.









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhHJMHxHa5E


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sub 60 gpu temps under load and sub 50 temps cpu under load


I was just looking at the Inwin Dragon Slayer. Looks like you can add a couple of 360mm rads on the door







, ???

I've seen a couple of 240mm rads on the HAF 932's door. Seems very tempting but the Elysium is still at the top of my "next case" list.

Nice build btw


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I was just looking at the Inwin Dragon Slayer. Looks like you can add a couple of 360mm rads on the door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , ???
> I've seen a couple of 240mm rads on the HAF 932's door. Seems very tempting but the Elysium is still at the top of my "next case" list.
> Nice build btw


Friend of mine has the Elysium, it's a really nice case with PLENTY of ample space.

Pretty sure you can put a rad at the bottom if you wanted to do so.

His ATX board looks so small in there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure nobody but the military has one of those bad boys. 1.5 Kilowatts is a lot of power.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heheh
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't 1.5kw=1500w?
> 
> 1.5 x 1000 = 1500?
Click to expand...

Yeah it is my bad, brain read it one way eyes read it correctly.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Ice cubes would be a bad idea, unless you freeze distilled water into ice cubes, but then again, I've never tried it. A chiller would work, check out lvl8Hacker's video. He got really cool temps using a water chiller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhHJMHxHa5E


Unless, a guy were to use something to hold Ice and run coolant through it w/o giving free access to the ice.









Moroso makes a fuel chiller that has 3/8 inch inlet/outlet thread. Just use an adapter fitting to G1/4 and it would accept the flow of coolant through a coiled pipe and back into the system. Would just have to figure out how to mount it to a case properly and it should be more than adequate to cool a loop. Much cheaper than buying a chiller if you already have a full loop in place.









~Ceadder


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Ice cubes would be a bad idea, unless you freeze distilled water into ice cubes, but then again, I've never tried it. A chiller would work, check out lvl8Hacker's video. He got really cool temps using a water chiller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhHJMHxHa5E


Just got done watching his video and now I see that I don't need anywhere a 1/4HP chiller. Thanks for the link you probably just saved me $500.

+1


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Friend of mine has the Elysium, it's a really nice case with PLENTY of ample space.
> Pretty sure you can put a rad at the bottom if you wanted to do so.
> His ATX board looks so small in there.


I had ordered one with the window but my 800D never sold so I canceled my order









If there was a decent selection of 140 fans imo, I wouldn't hesitate adding two 420s. If I do end up with it. I'm going with a couple of RX360s and an RX240; one on top and the other to the front and the RX240 at the bottom (if it can fit).

I know after drooling over the pics of reviews this thing is huge and makes an atx mb look puny


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah it is my bad, brain read it one way eyes read it correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless, a guy were to use something to hold Ice and run coolant through it w/o giving free access to the ice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moroso makes a fuel chiller that has 3/8 inch inlet/outlet thread. Just use an adapter fitting to G1/4 and it would accept the flow of coolant through a coiled pipe and back into the system. Would just have to figure out how to mount it to a case properly and it should be more than adequate to cool a loop. Much cheaper than buying a chiller if you already have a full loop in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Link please?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah it is my bad, brain read it one way eyes read it correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless, a guy were to use something to hold Ice and run coolant through it w/o giving free access to the ice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moroso makes a fuel chiller that has 3/8 inch inlet/outlet thread. Just use an adapter fitting to G1/4 and it would accept the flow of coolant through a coiled pipe and back into the system. Would just have to figure out how to mount it to a case properly and it should be more than adequate to cool a loop. Much cheaper than buying a chiller if you already have a full loop in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Haha no big, happens to all of us.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Wish I really had some money right now! >.< Some guy wants $250 for a 1/5HP!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Ice cubes would be a bad idea, unless you freeze distilled water into ice cubes, but then again, I've never tried it. A chiller would work, check out lvl8Hacker's video. He got really cool temps using a water chiller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhHJMHxHa5E


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah it is my bad, brain read it one way eyes read it correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless, a guy were to use something to hold Ice and run coolant through it w/o giving free access to the ice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moroso makes a fuel chiller that has 3/8 inch inlet/outlet thread. Just use an adapter fitting to G1/4 and it would accept the flow of coolant through a coiled pipe and back into the system. Would just have to figure out how to mount it to a case properly and it should be more than adequate to cool a loop. Much cheaper than buying a chiller if you already have a full loop in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link please?
Click to expand...

Moros Super Cool Cannister

You can get them from places like JEGS, Summit, NAPA... basically anyone that sells aftermarket competition equipment. I'm considering getting myself one for the really hot days where running the AC runs up the KW hours on the power bill.










Oh yeah the fitting size is 3/8NPT.









~Ceadder


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Just got done watching his video and now I see that I don't need anywhere a 1/4HP chiller. Thanks for the link you probably just saved me $500.
> +1


No problem, might want to thank the owner of the rig for trying it out. He's an OCN member.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I was just looking at the Inwin Dragon Slayer. Looks like you can add a couple of 360mm rads on the door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , ???
> I've seen a couple of 240mm rads on the HAF 932's door. Seems very tempting but the Elysium is still at the top of my "next case" list.
> Nice build btw


yes plenty of room vertically. but its width is a slight issue. with the cards in there might be ab inch between the door fan and the edge of the card's blocks so prolly 2 inches total space without the fan there. but you can fit 6 120mm fans on the door lol so maybe the rad can go outside lol. other than the width issue i love this case and it looks cool IMO. it does have usb 3.0 and esata connectors on the front I/O panel

only other issue with the dragon rider case is the HDD bays. they are not able to have the cables come out the back without some jerry rigging. the tooless design was flawed there even though i managed to make it work


----------



## SnipesMcGee

my name will be in the OP someday


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> yes plenty of room vertically. but its width is a slight issue. with the cards in there might be ab inch between the door fan and the edge of the card's blocks so prolly 2 inches total space without the fan there. but you can fit 6 120mm fans on the door lol so maybe the rad can go outside lol. other than the width issue i love this case and it looks cool IMO. it does have usb 3.0 and esata connectors on the front I/O panel
> only other issue with the dragon rider case is the HDD bays. they are not able to have the cables come out the back without some jerry rigging. the tooless design was flawed there even though i managed to make it work


That's what I figured. Might have to mount the fans on the outside. Still a lovely case, though the reviews do nail it for the hdd setup you mentioned.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SnipesMcGee*
> 
> my name will be in the OP someday


Get a closed loop for your cpu, take some pics, and your in


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> is the a figurine of SPAWN??????? man where do i get one of those, we have the same theme going ,i freaking love it


I have the same figurine also







very cool indeed


----------



## gumbie

Sneak peak of my new up coming build in an FT-02


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> I have the same figurine also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very cool indeed


where do i get one???


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie*
> 
> Sneak peak of my new up coming build in an FT-02


Very nice, when you see such a huge radiator in such a small case it's almost unheard of! It's like putting a V8 engine into a Mazda Miata, and yes I've seen it done!


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Very nice, when you see such a huge radiator in such a small case it's almost unheard of! It's like putting a V8 engine into a Mazda Miata, and yes I've seen it done!


Tell you what, It's such a tight fit I don't even think i'll need to screw it to the case


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Meh, I'm still not used to the new layout and the slowness......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Bundy, I like to heatexchangers. Who makes them?


Aquacomputer ! More Infos in their forum:

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/wasserk-hlung/100609-airplex-gigant-eine-neue-radiatorklasse/

http://www.aquacomputer.de/newsreader/items/eine-neue-dimension-im-radiatorenmarkt---airplex-gigant.html


----------



## Ceadderman

They got some nice stuff. Then I notice everything is Aluminum.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Time for a 120x720 rad











Or just get this:


----------



## RushMore1205

hey guys i need help choose a rad for my gt ap-15s im torn between the new EK rads or the gtx360
can some one please help me choose

also about those new rads, i thought Combining Alu, and Co is a big no no????????????????????


----------



## Infernosaint

I used to have a GTX for my Ap-15's, but I have them turned down to 30-40% speed, when I am at the PC, and the GTX is made for higher speed fans, so I changed to SR-1, added some more rad, and now the build is pretty much silent, with even better temps









ie, the GTX is better, if you have the fans at max all the time. It just aint that efficient with low speed fans.


----------



## wermad

Looks like the AC rads have copper pipes to channel the liquid and the fins and frame are made from aluminum. I didn't read the entire post but I'm sure they're aware of not to mix copper and aluminum.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie*
> 
> Sneak peak of my new up coming build in an FT-02


Holy heck I didn't even think that was possible :O

Does the whole rad fit perfectly inside or is it sticking out at all?

Also where is your PSU going?


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Time for a 120x720 rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or just get this:


that looks like it would fit perfect on the door of my dragon rider case lol


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Holy heck I didn't even think that was possible :O
> Does the whole rad fit perfectly inside or is it sticking out at all?
> Also where is your PSU going?


The rad fits perfectly into the bottom, It's such a tight fit I don't even think i'll need to screw it to the case

Also the PSU goes in the top right corner


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie*
> 
> The rad fits perfectly into the bottom, It's such a tight fit I don't even think i'll need to screw it to the case
> Also the PSU goes in the top right corner


Ah sorry thought the PSU went in the bottom left.

Figured out that was the HDD bay, so where do you plan on putting the HDDs?


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Ah sorry thought the PSU went in the bottom left.
> Figured out that was the HDD bay, so where do you plan on putting the HDDs?


Into the 5.25 Bays with an adapter for my HDD







and my SSD will be mounted behind the mobo tray somewhere


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> that looks like it would fit perfect on the door of my dragon rider case lol


Thought about that too


----------



## bundymania

Ice Dragon Cooling Store


----------



## Norlig

took these before I cleaned it, The Dust filters on the HAF X isnt that good, but it got most of the dust








been uncleaned inside for ~5 months


----------



## JozefH

Antec ITS OVER 9000! lol


----------



## discipline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sub 60 gpu temps under load and sub 50 temps cpu under load


Tipless! What rad do you have in the top? I'm planning on modding a Black Ice SR1 360 in the top and I thought i was a few mm short but this makes it seem like there's a ton of room up there. . . maybe I need to remeasure. You have a rad and 38 mm fans in the top without hitting the mobo. That's got to a be a thinner radiator!


----------



## Elloquin

That's a Koolance rad up top.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Los Hog

I love the sleeving job Bundy looks great







I dont know if I could have any of that coolant hanging around in a glass I would drink it thinking it was milk


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I love the sleeving job Bundy looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know if I could have any of that coolant hanging around in a glass I would drink it thinking it was milk










Pretty sure there was no coolant in those pics. Could be wrong.









~Ceadder


----------



## Los Hog

post #15297 scroll up the page


----------



## Ceadderman

Ooooh I see iz nowz. Pologiez.









~Ceadder


----------



## andygoyap




----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ice Dragon Cooling Store


is that stuff any good? I was considering getting it for the build I'm working on. I think it would look cool in the huge res.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> is that stuff any good? I was considering getting it for the build I'm working on. I think it would look cool in the huge res.


I love it. It looks so effing good when you dye it. But it does require a whole lot of dye to get strong colours.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


what case is that ?


----------



## Scorpion49

Here's my Arc Mini work in progress, not as cool as some but it will get the job done


























The case is all stripped down because it was supposed to be powdercoated white, but I got tired of waiting for the guy to respond back so I said lets just put it together now. Its currently leak testing using a molex off of my other machine so I don't have to jumper the PSU.


----------



## EnticingSausage

That looks really great, tubing is routed very nicely aswell. Looks like the tube might be a bit loose on the gpu input though


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> That looks really great, tubing is routed very nicely aswell. Looks like the tube might be a bit loose on the gpu input though


That piece on the left was re-cut from new tubing, I was using my old tubing to mock it up so I didn't really care if it was straight or not. The old tubing had a ton of the white stuff in it, I forget what its called so I had to throw it all out and flush the radiators and blocks with vinegar water and then more distilled.


----------



## Fonne

Looks great - Love small builds


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> That looks really great, tubing is routed very nicely aswell. Looks like the tube might be a bit loose on the gpu input though
> 
> 
> 
> That piece on the left was re-cut from new tubing, I was using my old tubing to mock it up so I didn't really care if it was straight or not. The old tubing had a ton of the white stuff in it, I forget what its called so I had to throw it all out and flush the radiators and blocks with vinegar water and then more distilled.
Click to expand...

Corrosion mebbe?









Looks good though I never thought about running a 120 the way you are cause my 850 is a little long, not sure the 120 would fit there at the end of the PSU.









~Ceadder


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> That looks really great, tubing is routed very nicely aswell. Looks like the tube might be a bit loose on the gpu input though
> 
> 
> 
> That piece on the left was re-cut from new tubing, I was using my old tubing to mock it up so I didn't really care if it was straight or not. The old tubing had a ton of the white stuff in it, I forget what its called so I had to throw it all out and flush the radiators and blocks with vinegar water and then more distilled.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Corrosion mebbe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good though I never thought about running a 120 the way you are cause my 850 is a little long, not sure the 120 would fit there at the end of the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Its not corrosion, its the one from the tubing. The PSU must be 160mm or shorter to allow the 120 and cables.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Looks great - Love small builds


Same here. They seem to take a lot more skill than huge builds.

Almost anyone could make a 700D sized case look good (myself included)


----------



## mad87645

great looking build there scorpion


----------



## Scorpion49

Thanks guys, I'll post some "finished" pics tomorrow when I run the Lutro0 extensions and install everything.


----------



## Michalev

Hey guys (and gals) I just starting my first water build and was wondering if this loop would be alright?

Pump>GPUx2 Parallel>120 Rad>360 Rad>CPU>Res>Pump

It is about the cleanest loop i can think of using the HAF 932 with the 120 inside on the back fan mount and the 360 in the top.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalev*
> 
> Hey guys (and gals) I just starting my first water build and was wondering if this loop would be alright?
> 
> Pump>GPUx2 Parallel>120 Rad>360 Rad>CPU>Res>Pump
> 
> It is about the cleanest loop i can think of using the HAF 932 with the 120 inside on the back fan mount and the 360 in the top.


Try this: "Pump>GPUx2 Parallel>360 Rad>CPU>120 Rad>Res>Pump" or flip flop the 120 for the 360. Either way should be reasonable imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## paradoxum

http://imgur.com/a/IzPrW#0


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/IzPrW#0


nice t-virus you got there


----------



## elchucko

Can I join?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ice Dragon Cooling Store


Wow $30







They make a pretty bold statement of "Developed through years of research and testing Ice Dragon cooling fluid is a state of the art nanofluid capable of *enhancing heat transfer rates by as much as 20%*" have you seen this?


----------



## SimpleTech

My 5870's are thirsty. Waiting for my new Dimastech Easy Dual bench to come this Wednesday.


----------



## Triangle

It looks like milk.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Wow $30
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They make a pretty bold statement of "Developed through years of research and testing Ice Dragon cooling fluid is a state of the art nanofluid capable of *enhancing heat transfer rates by as much as 20%*" have you seen this?


You would need to run some seriously high temperatures before this 20% becomes obvious. For us water coolers it is pretty much exactly the same as distilled in terms of performance. But it looks fantastic.


----------



## Scorpion49

Still experimenting with the new camera trying to get a NOT blurry shot, but here is one of the (mostly) finished product:


----------



## skaboy607

Probably a stupid question but what are the two black things on the floor of the case?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> My 5870's are thirsty. Waiting for my new Dimastech Easy Dual bench to come this Wednesday.


I have one...if you bought direct from Dimastech,you may well have either the wrong one or incorrect shipping details....took over a month to get mine and even then it was the wrong one.
Plus the powdercoat is rubbish..

Nice bench tho.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Probably a stupid question but what are the two black things on the floor of the case?


If that was aimed at me, theres a 120 radiator on the bottom.


----------



## skaboy607

Yea it was. Thanks


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Yea it was. Thanks


No problem, I added a pic from a different angle so you could tell better.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Still experimenting with the new camera trying to get a NOT blurry shot, but here is one of the (mostly) finished product:


Got rads? What camera are you using?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Got rads? What camera are you using?


Its a sony cybershot DSC-W510, its a cheap-o basically. I got it for $79. It doesn't really have any ISO settings I can use, they're labeled for different things but it doesn't actually give you any info on the settings. The best one for my lighting situation I've found was "food" mode, supposedly you take pictures of food with it...


----------



## Triangle

lol @ Food Mode









That looks nice..!








What size tubing and barbs are you using?


----------



## GoodInk

Well it does look yummy, lol. If you can run it in manual use a tripod or try to find something to set it on and use the timer. That keeps you from shaking when you press the button to take the pic. Lighting will help but it sounds like you all ready know that. Oh wow just noticed the 2 SSD's


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> lol @ Food Mode
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks nice..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What size tubing and barbs are you using?


1/2" ID 3/4" OD primochill, 1/2" barbs of a couple different brands.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Well it does look yummy, lol. If you can run it in manual use a tripod or try to find something to set it on and use the timer. That keeps you from shaking when you press the button to take the pic. Lighting will help but it sounds like you all ready know that. Oh wow just noticed the 2 SSD's


It was set on a box but I didn't try the timer, I'll give that a shot.


----------



## Triangle

Did you think about using 7/16"ID tubing over 1/2"ID barbs?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> Did you think about using 7/16"ID tubing over 1/2"ID barbs?


I think it's great, you don't need clamps and it gives you a really clean look. I like the look more than compression fittings.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> Did you think about using 7/16"ID tubing over 1/2"ID barbs?


Thought, yes. Do I need to? No. The tubing is very tight on there already, and I've never had a leak to begin with. I ran it for 24 hours with the pump on 5 and there was no issue. Honestly I would have to heat 7/16th tubing to get it on there and I don't feel like its necessary.


----------



## Michalev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try this: "Pump>GPUx2 Parallel>360 Rad>CPU>120 Rad>Res>Pump" or flip flop the 120 for the 360. Either way should be reasonable imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Thought, yes. Do I need to? No. The tubing is very tight on there already, and I've never had a leak to begin with. I ran it for 24 hours with the pump on 5 and there was no issue. Honestly I would have to heat 7/16th tubing to get it on there and I don't feel like its necessary.


No need to... I was just wondering..


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> Did you think about using 7/16"ID tubing over 1/2"ID barbs?


I think I miss read that


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have one...if you bought direct from Dimastech,you may well have either the wrong one or incorrect shipping details....took over a month to get mine and even then it was the wrong one.
> Plus the powdercoat is rubbish..
> 
> Nice bench tho.


I got mine from FrozenCPU during their BF sale. Hopefully it won't be the wrong one. I need the dual radiator support.


----------



## Hogwasher

Guess I could go ahead and throw a photo up of my H50 to get in the club.



Plan on a RASA 360 or 240 with GPU added first of the year Jan/Feb


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Guess I could go ahead and throw a photo up of my H50 to get in the club.
> 
> 
> 
> Plan on a RASA 360 or 240 with GPU added first of the year Jan/Feb


Wow that DCUII is saggin!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Still experimenting with the new camera trying to get a NOT blurry shot, but here is one of the (mostly) finished product:


That look nice and clean looking just like a brand new car!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Probably a stupid question but what are the two black things on the floor of the case?


Are you referring to those two shiny lumps? If so those are the end tanks of a Hardware Labs radiator.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Wow that DCUII is saggin!


What's that?


----------



## jellis142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> What's that?


His GPU that's very close in the picture. It looks like it's sagging (no reason to doubt it, they weigh a ton).


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Wow that DCUII is saggin!
> 
> 
> 
> What's that?
Click to expand...

Looks like the cooler on the card you posted..... Asus DCUII? Mine sagged and they had the backplates on them (matrix 580's).


----------



## Hogwasher

Oh no its a sapphire Toxic 6870. I think it's more of the angle I took the photo.

Would take a couple more photo tonight but the wife is already in bed so it will have to wait until tomorrow


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Wow that DCUII is saggin!
> 
> 
> 
> What's that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks like the cooler on the card you posted..... Asus DCUII? Mine sagged and they had the backplates on them (matrix 580's).
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Oh no its a sapphire Toxic 6870. I think it's more of the angle I took the photo.
> 
> Would take a couple more photo tonight but the wife is already in bed so it will have to wait until tomorrow


Fair 'nuff. The bottom was kind of hard to tell, it looks like the Asus cooler I guess the toxic has a similar design. It works well though even though its super heavy.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Wow that DCUII is saggin!
> 
> 
> 
> What's that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks like the cooler on the card you posted..... Asus DCUII? Mine sagged and they had the backplates on them (matrix 580's).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Oh no its a sapphire Toxic 6870. I think it's more of the angle I took the photo.
> 
> Would take a couple more photo tonight but the wife is already in bed so it will have to wait until tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Fair 'nuff. The bottom was kind of hard to tell, it looks like the Asus cooler I guess the toxic has a similar design. It works well though even though its super heavy.
Click to expand...

By the way I like your build. I would love to build in the arc midi myself









The mini is just to small for my knuckles


----------



## Cuar

All done! What do you guys think of the external rad? Doesnt look to bad I think.


----------



## DirectOverkill

Looks neat.


----------



## solar0987

I got mine at toys r us like 5 years ago.
Maybe loook online.
Let me check


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Still experimenting with the new camera trying to get a NOT blurry shot, but here is one of the (mostly) finished product:


Looks nice:thumb:
That thing is a beast OMG!
What are temps like?
One suggestion?
Move the 8 pin to the hole on the far left. So its not stretched across your mb.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Looks nice:thumb:
> That thing is a beast OMG!
> What are temps like?
> One suggestion?
> Move the 8 pin to the hole on the far left. So its not stretched across your mb.


Temps are good, CPU maxes out at around 50*C at 4.5ghz, the 590 barely hits 42*C. The cable is that way on purpose so I can see the nice custom extension, its more tucked up now though it fell down a little.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> I got mine at toys r us like 5 years ago.
> Maybe loook online.
> Let me check












~Ceadder


----------



## ZeusAudio

Hey guys, I got a couple questions for you while I try to finish my build.

Firstly, I'm not sure how to orient my radiators and case fans to get the most optimal airflow. What I am thinking so far is to have my 240mm up front and 360mm up top to be intake and have my 230mm and 140mm fans on the side and back to be exhaust. Reason being I've read its bad to have the rads in different orientations. Kind of like my picture below.



Second question being how can I support my gtx 580 with the water block on it? Reason I'm asking is because I take my computer with me to LANs and such and I'm worried that with the added weight of the water block the PCI slot might not be able to hold it and could bend/snap.


----------



## wermad

^^^Sounds like a plan.

Try using the plumbing to help support the gpu block. If you have any further concerns, there are some support brackets available or you can make one. I've seen some made out of a pencil


----------



## Winrahr

Fan orientation looks good. I wouldn't do exhaust on top on your setup because the front rad is intake.

Good idea to support your GPU, just in case the transport gets too rough. I think having anything underneath when you need to move it it would be sufficient.


----------



## ZeusAudio

Thanks to both of you for the help +rep.

Definitely looking forward to getting my build all put together. Sidewinder sent me the wrong block but fixed it immediately and my block is on the way. I think I will use the tubing and the pcie power cables to support the card and add some extra support for transport. Will post pics of the build once it's all put together.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I have used thin wire to suspend the card between the top and bottom of the case before. worked great, you just have to make sure there is some tension on the wire both above and bellow the card.


----------



## GoodInk

You can replace the tool less with thumb screws, it will hold 100 times better.


----------



## ZeusAudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You can replace the tool less with thumb screws, it will hold 100 times better.


This was the first thing I did. While the HAF cases tool-less is convenient, it does not seem stable at all.


----------



## MWH

hey guys add me


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeusAudio*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You can replace the tool less with thumb screws, it will hold 100 times better.
> 
> 
> 
> This was the first thing I did. While the HAF cases tool-less is convenient, it does not seem stable at all.
Click to expand...

Yeah I replaced mine too, though not for the same reason. Re-installation of the GPU, I snapped one of the ends as I was clicking it into place because the plastic was a smidgen too thick to fit in between my GPU cover and the plate.









After that happened I swore on all that is holy that I would never have that happen again and got a couple sets of tooless thumbscrews and replaced those and the door, PSU stand screws. Now when I'm ready to do my GPU(s) I don't have to deal with tooless clips there.









So how was y'alls Turkey day? Give ya a chance to work some more on your loops?









~Ceadder


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MWH*
> 
> hey guys add me


How do you like those fans? Considering on buying the same


----------



## kot0005

Add me please!

From This:









To This:









Idle:









Load Lowest Fan speed/Setting 1 on Case the I.O panel (After 10 minutes):









Load Highest Fan speed/Setting 6 On the case I.O Panel (After 10 minutes):









Also Made a few mods..

Removed the G Force logo from the card and Sticked it to the waterblock with some neopropane pads.


----------



## Schaden

Teaser


----------



## MWH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> How do you like those fans? Considering on buying the same


thay are really good fans thay cool great
but thay are A bit noisy
if you dont need LED Fans than get AP15s
but is you need LED Fans i would get this


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MWH*
> 
> thay are really good fans thay cool great
> but thay are A bit noisy
> if you dont need LED Fans than get AP15s
> but is you need LED Fans i would get this


I was planning on getting AP15s, but there's a problem: CM fans are 10$, AP15s are 20$.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> I was planning on getting AP15s, but there's a problem: CM fans are 10$, AP15s are 20$.


CM fans are $6

Enjoy:

http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11130AC7652&vpn=R4-C2R-20AC-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTER


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> Teaser


Oh I wish I had the money to do a Mini Itx water cooled build









good job so far!


----------



## MWH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> I was planning on getting AP15s, but there's a problem: CM fans are 10$, AP15s are 20$.


the CMs are really good fans as good as the AP-15, maybe even slightly better
Just how important to you is silence thats all
and im not saying thay are Loud just louder than the AP-15 for a bout the same performance


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MWH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> I was planning on getting AP15s, but there's a problem: CM fans are 10$, AP15s are 20$.
> 
> 
> 
> the CMs are really good fans as good as the AP-15, maybe even slightly better
> Just how important to you is silence thats all
> and im not saying thay are Loud just louder than the AP-15 for a bout the same performance
Click to expand...

R4's are pretty noisy. Sickleflows are noisy at 2000 rpm, turn them down to 1200 and they're whisper quiet. I had 7 of them in my machine and at 1000rpm I couldn't even tell it was on without putting my ear up to it.


----------



## MWH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> R4's are pretty noisy. Sickleflows are noisy at 2000 rpm, turn them down to 1200 and they're whisper quiet. I had 7 of them in my machine and at 1000rpm I couldn't even tell it was on without putting my ear up to it.


that is right but he will need more rad the lower he gos


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MWH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> R4's are pretty noisy. Sickleflows are noisy at 2000 rpm, turn them down to 1200 and they're whisper quiet. I had 7 of them in my machine and at 1000rpm I couldn't even tell it was on without putting my ear up to it.
> 
> 
> 
> that is right but he will need more rad the lower he gos
Click to expand...

Possibly, I just had my fans crank back up to 2000 rpm when the cpu or gpus were under load, I had headphones on when gaming anyway. It wasn't unbearable, or even loud really. Just annoying when browsing the web or whatever.


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh Yate Loons at $4 each for any speed and excellent Static Pressure is where it's at imho. Of course I'm gonna get some GTs' if I can get 3 of them from one of the group buy participants. Only for testing purposes but they're much cheaper than if I were to get them from a retailer.

On the noise front you don't have to run them full speed 24/7. Just get a fan controller a Y splitter. You can dial them up or down depending on the need and the dB.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh Yate Loons at $4 each for any speed and excellent Static Pressure is where it's at imho.


From experience, don't run the Yates horizontal. Their performance drops significantly and wears out the bearings quickly. When I just replaced my 6 horizontal mounted Yates, I found one had stopped completely (hard to turn even) and two others are clicking.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Installed the Corsair H80 last night, im actually liking the temps, much better the the H70, just have to build a budget to go do my second custom loop




































ps dont watch the cable management i need to clean it up tomorrow and flip a fan around, was in a rush to finish it last night


----------



## Qu1ckset

by the way the stock fans for the H80 are so freaking loud


----------



## DevilDriver

Rig with new FX-6100 and Asus Sabertooth 990FX


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> From experience, don't run the Yates horizontal. Their performance drops significantly and wears out the bearings quickly. When I just replaced my 6 horizontal mounted Yates, I found one had stopped completely (hard to turn even) and two others are clicking.


My are dieing bit by bit, glad they were cheap, my GT fund is going nicely


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't seem to have any problem running my Yates horizontally. If they make any noise at all, you just add a little mineral oil to the bearings and that's that. Of course I run them so that they're pulling air up not down so that may be why mine are okay, with the closed end down and able to keep the bearings lubricated.









~Ceadder


----------



## driftingforlife

I have had one shater, and 3 complety die, going to order 8 1850RPM GT fans monday


----------



## Ceadderman

Who did you buy your Yates from? I gonna stayz away from them.







lol

LED or blacks?









Still for $4 fans you really can't beat em imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## driftingforlife

Got mine from chilled PC and scan. black ones.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

There can be only one.


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I have had one shater, and 3 complety die, going to order 8 1850RPM GT fans monday


Where are you gonna take them?


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> Where are you gonna take them?


Take them?


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Take them?


Where are you going to order your AP15s from?


----------



## driftingforlife

http://www.scan.co.uk/


----------



## rockcoeur

NVM, the shipping is gonna cost more than the fans themselves!


----------



## fshizl

nice build everyone....

side note. Apparently I have like 12 AP15 GT's that are just sitting in my box. Only used on one build and havent used them again.


----------



## num1son

Which yates are you guys having die? And over what time period? I have 10 of them in every orientation possible and no issues. Not saying they wont, just curious.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Who did you buy your Yates from? I gonna stayz away from them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> LED or blacks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still for $4 fans you really can't beat em imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Which yates are you guys having die? And over what time period? I have 10 of them in every orientation possible and no issues. Not saying they wont, just curious.


Bought mine (D12SM-12) from Frozencpu back in April/May. Mine were in a exhaust config on the top of my system.


----------



## driftingforlife

I have the 2200RPM 88CMF 120mm blacks. Don't know how long because I got sets of fans from differant places.


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl*
> 
> nice build everyone....
> side note. Apparently I have like 12 AP15 GT's that are just sitting in my box. Only used on one build and havent used them again.


REALLY!?! Would you mind selling 3 or 4 to me?


----------



## SimpleTech

My new bench..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> My new bench..


Already got one...



Just waiting for GPU blocks.....

Build log in my sig.


----------



## Ceadderman

Aven't ad one die yet. Not that they don't but I just don't ave that experience. I've got 3 in my 932 at the moment, two of which ave only known horizontal operation.









The 3rd on is a 140 an is my rear exhaust fan.









@Angrybutcher... your fans still work or toast?









@B NEG & SimpleTech... would LOVE to have that bench for a builder's bench. Looks reasonably well put together.









~Ceadder


----------



## num1son

Thanks for posting about your yates guys. I have these:
1650rpm
From both frozencpu.com and jab-tech.com.
Guess I'll just keep watching them with my fingers crossed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh yeah forgot I have another Yates that I gave my brother that is also running Horizontal. I got it for him the last time I ordered my last set of Yates from Performance-PCs. Spinnin like an ADD Champ. There are better but not for the money imho.









Now if I can just get the rest of my build done I can show them off.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Angrybutcher... your fans still work or toast?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


One is hard to turn by hand, and won't turn under power. The other 5 spin fine, but 2 are clicking when you turn them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Angrybutcher... your fans still work or toast?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One is hard to turn by hand, and won't turn under power. The other 5 spin fine, but 2 are clicking when you turn them.
Click to expand...

Have you tried to lubricate them? A little mineral oil should fix them right up. I won't guarantee they'll last forever but they should hold up in exhaust form with a little lubrication.









~Ceadder


----------



## driftingforlife

Just bought my GTs


----------



## Schaden

Loop testing

































































thoughts?


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> Loop testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thoughts?


Hahah sweet









But aren't the 24 pin power connector blocked by the MOSFET block? Or is it just the last pics angle that makes it show like it is?

It looks damn awesome on that little board, good work









/NwP


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> Hahah sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But aren't the 24 pin power connector blocked by the MOSFET block? Or is it just the last pics angle that makes it show like it is?
> It looks damn awesome on that little board, good work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /NwP


Na mate all the power connectors are all good, you did make me double check though haha









I'll tell you what, koolance's mounting kit was rubbish, it was missing parts so I went and brought some nuts and bolts which worked, and was much more simple.

Also if people could have a quick look at this as I am quite worried.

thanks


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> Na mate all the power connectors are all good, you did make me double check though haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll tell you what, koolance's mounting kit was rubbish, it was missing parts so I went and brought some nuts and bolts which worked, and was much more simple.
> Also if people could have a quick look at this as I am quite worried.
> thanks


Arh, thats a good thing.

Yeah, I acctually noticed you didn't use the original mountingscrews, as I have a pair of those blocks myself, although I figured it might have been a space issue.
Those thumbscrews that come with the block reach quite high.

Also, I tool a look at your other post.
To my eyes, it looks like it's because the acrylic plate isn't tightened all the way down, so that it doesn't make contact with the block.
This will leave a gap in between for the water to lay dead, and maybe causing the nickel surface to corrode faster?

What type of liquid are you using? and have you added any biocide/corrosion inhibitor?

/NwP


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> Arh, thats a good thing.
> Yeah, I acctually noticed you didn't use the original mountingscrews, as I have a pair of those blocks myself, although I figured it might have been a space issue.
> Those thumbscrews that come with the block reach quite high.
> Also, I tool a look at your other post.
> To my eyes, it looks like it's because the acrylic plate isn't tightened all the way down, so that it doesn't make contact with the block.
> This will leave a gap in between for the water to lay dead, and maybe causing the nickel surface to corrode faster?
> What type of liquid are you using? and have you added any biocide/corrosion inhibitor?
> /NwP


I have been running distilled and a silver coil. And only have nickel and copped (maybe brass in rads?) and I have never opened or touched the screws on the block. :S


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> I have been running distilled and a silver coil. And only have nickel and copped (maybe brass in rads?) and I have never opened or touched the screws on the block. :S


In my oppinion, it's best practice to always retighten stuff like this.
In your case, I would disassemple the block, rinse it with some distilled water and reassemple - making sure it's proper tightened.

Good luck mate!

/NwP


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> In my oppinion, it's best practice to always retighten stuff like this.
> In your case, I would disassemple the block, rinse it with some distilled water and reassemple - making sure it's proper tightened.
> Good luck mate!
> /NwP


Its the first thing I would have done but EK have gone and added warranty stickers that break apon opening the block. Which means if it is not just buildup and is in fact corrosion im kind of screwed :S


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> Its the first thing I would have done but EK have gone and added warranty stickers that break apon opening the block. Which means if it is not just buildup and is in fact corrosion im kind of screwed :S


The sticker is only a "leak warranty". You are free to open the block and wipe if necessary. Do not use any sort of chemicals/cleaners without EK's approval however.


----------



## Ceadderman

Also those stickers are relatively easy(if the same on my HF Supreme) to get around without mangling them. I've been inside of my CPU block lots of times without mangling, bending or tearing the warranty sticker.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> Teaser


You will have to let me know how that board works. I am seriously considering getting one, but the reviews are making me wonder. It seems the bios has serious issues for some people and that some of the integrated features are not actually operable because of a lack of software support.

if you have a good experience with that one though I'll probably end up getting one for myself.


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> You will have to let me know how that board works. I am seriously considering getting one, but the reviews are making me wonder. It seems the bios has serious issues for some people and that some of the integrated features are not actually operable because of a lack of software support.
> if you have a good experience with that one though I'll probably end up getting one for myself.


There have been 2 new bios upgrades since it first came out and the reviews where done, I myself have had no problems with the board but some people have. But considering the price I am pretty happy with how its running


----------



## kevingreenbmx

have you overclocked at all? the other thing I have heard is that the VRMs go poof with any voltage...


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> have you overclocked at all? the other thing I have heard is that the VRMs go poof with any voltage...


I have hit 4GHz but I wanted to wait for my VRM block before I started pushing it


----------



## chewdude

Changing soon but wanted to get an entry into the club with it before its different. BTW this is my first time watercooling.


----------



## Kamakazeekevin

That's a lot of parts you have laying out there. Are you cooling 2 rigs with all that because that's a lot of spare parts if not.


----------



## chewdude

Aye yes the 2 sig towers got this one done and now tearing it down again and got the other entertainment center rig at school teaching the guys how to do it. should be done with it by next week i hope.


----------



## Ceadderman

Am soooooooo jealous right now.









Looks nice though.









~Ceadder


----------



## chewdude

thanks bud will be showing more pics in my build log on the new chewy rig coming soon.


----------



## G3RG

Rasa rs240 loop in a CM Stacker 830.

Fans are mounted on the bottom which makes them nearly silent and invisible.


----------



## andygoyap

more pics here @ http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1133437-tj11-single-loop-dominator-sandy-tri.html


----------



## Schaden

^ that is sexy as


----------



## kot0005

moar Pics .


----------



## mad87645

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics here @ http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1133437-tj11-single-loop-dominator-sandy-tri.html


i remember the thread for that build,

absolutely drop dead gorgeous


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics here @ http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1133437-tj11-single-loop-dominator-sandy-tri.html


Every time I see your build I can't help but get excited, I received my two foot sample of the Primochill 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD tubing today, I can't believe how well it bends while keeping it round shape!







~


----------



## Denim-187

-

-

-


----------



## Los Hog




----------



## eduardmc

@andygoyap

i always wonder of what kind of camera you guys use to take those amazing picture. i only use my cell camera and the pics comes out very crappy. Can you give me some recommendation of good camera like the one you are using?


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denim-187*
> 
> 
> -


nice, ill be wc'ing this xmas and basically have the same exact components


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> @andygoyap
> i always wonder of what kind of camera you guys use to take those amazing picture. i only use my cell camera and the pics comes out very crappy. Can you give me some recommendation of good camera like the one you are using?


You can get decent photos with a point and shoot if you use a tripod or something and set up your lighting. Most people I would assume are using DSLR's well thats what I use. I don't think I could go back to a regular digital camera after it xD


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> You can get decent photos with a point and shoot if you use a tripod or something and set up your lighting. Most people I would assume are using DSLR's well thats what I use. I don't think I could go back to a regular digital camera after it xD


Yep. I have a DSLR and i can't photograph my case to save a life. Most people that have simple point and shoots of micro 4/3rds have better case shots than i do.


----------



## Denim-187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> nice, ill be wc'ing this xmas and basically have the same exact components


Thnxx, you'll be very pleased


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Yep. I have a DSLR and i can't photograph my case to save a life. Most people that have simple point and shoots of micro 4/3rds have better case shots than i do.


Use a tripod if you have too. It helps.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> Use a tripod if you have too. It helps.


I can get decent exposures, but they just lack something. I've even tried extreme angles and stuff lol.


----------



## k.3nny

Piiics







!


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Piiics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


That contains a significant amount of pink.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Piiics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !




The Pink Ladies approve


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Piiics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> ]


What coolant is that? Mayhems aurora pink?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

So, I may soon be loosing my +Rep button... things are starting to be in the works... hint: anyone miss the MOTM contest?


----------



## Ceadderman

I do.









~Ceadder


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> What coolant is that? Mayhems aurora pink?


I'll answer for him, yes it is. See here:

Aurora Fail


----------



## Schaden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> 
> So, I may soon be loosing my +Rep button... things are starting to be in the works... hint: anyone miss the MOTM contest?


I like the way this sounds







hopefully it will increase the traffic through the work log sections aswell








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> What coolant is that? Mayhems aurora pink?
> 
> 
> 
> I'll answer for him, yes it is. See here:
> 
> Aurora Fail
Click to expand...

Super lame, was thinking of using it myself.


----------



## andygoyap

@systemlord, thanks man!







that's why i love 3/8 5/8.. it can bend like no other!
@eduardmc, i am using tripod and panasonic lumix gh2, then set iso to lowest!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> So, I may soon be loosing my +Rep button... things are starting to be in the works... hint: anyone miss the MOTM contest?


So Kev, you are going to be a Mod for the new OCN??


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap*
> 
> @systemlord, thanks man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's why i love 3/8 5/8.. it can bend like no other!
> @eduardmc, i am using tripod and panasonic lumix gh2, then set iso to lowest!]


andygoyap how do your pictures thay look like pro photography
for the love of god i cant get pictures of that quality


----------



## bundymania

New fittings incoming...hot or not ?


----------



## Angrybutcher

In the right build they might look fine. By themselves, they look like d-plugs, missing pieces.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> So Kev, you are going to be a Mod for the new OCN??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> I like the way this sounds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hopefully it will increase the traffic through the work log sections aswell


only time will tell <_< >_>
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New fittings incoming...hot or not ?


I like that there are notches to tighten the inside piece before the compression sleeve is on, but they look huge...


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> andygoyap how do your pictures thay look like pro photography
> for the love of god i cant get pictures of that quality


you should check this out http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig-updated/0_20


----------



## Blindsay

I wish i could get my sleeved extensions to look neater, some people are able to get the cables perfectly neat but mine do not want to stay in order and since they alternate red/black it seems very noticable when they are out of order


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> you should check this out http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig-updated/0_20


thanks mate


----------



## GoodInk

Still a work in progress, waiting on parts and will be changing the way the pump mounts soon. Check out my work log for more


----------



## Kthxbai

Here's my computer so far. I am still working on it, and I am finally getting my 250mm reservoir / cable sleeving (can't wait!)/ fans (so disregard that ugly 250mm up top, all I have at the moment.) I still need to make an actual back to the case (the one in the pictures is just a rough piece of wood). Any suggestions on where to mount the 250? Also, any suggestions on what to use over the power button (in between DvD Drives). Also open up to any other suggestions as I finish the desk. Also, sorry for dirt/dust/wood chips still building xD


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New fittings incoming...hot or not ?


I'd say not. It looks impossible to fit two of these on a cpu block and they just look ugly.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> I'd say not. It looks impossible to fit two of these on a cpu block and they just look ugly.


look at this:










and Bitspower 16/10mm (3/8" - 5/8")


----------



## Ceadderman

They don't look that bad but what's with the tool slot in the barb? Cross thread one in an Acetal block and you're done if you use a flat tip to get it to flush. Some people are ham handed and don't know theur own strength.









~Ceadder


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They don't look that bad but what's with the tool slot in the barb? Cross thread one in an Acetal block and you're done if you use a flat tip to get it to flush. Some people are ham handed and don't know theur own strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am sure you could get it almost tight enough with your hand and then finish it with a large flat head and be done with it, I mean really how tight do you tighten your barbs? no reason to bust out the torque wrench and crank down to 100ft/lbs.

You both really don't like those barbs do you...lol


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Not sure if this counts but.....

Here is my h70 in a semi-modded Nzxt vulcan mid tower




Those are red-led yates... 1500rpm, the blue is painters tape covering the gap where the mesh was removed...

funny thing about the mounting was I bought the h70 used from a user here at OCN, had to buy a compatible screw from a tool store to get it mounted...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They don't look that bad but what's with the tool slot in the barb? Cross thread one in an Acetal block and you're done if you use a flat tip to get it to flush. Some people are ham handed and don't know theur own strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


G1/4" threads are big enough that you would have to be pretty oblivious to cross thread them...

I approve of the slot, use that with a large coin and you can get your barbs perfect tight. the XSPC compression have those too, I wish bitspower did.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> I am sure you could get it almost tight enough with your hand and then finish it with a large flat head and be done with it, I mean really how tight do you tighten your barbs? no reason to bust out the torque wrench and crank down to 100ft/lbs.
> You both really don't like those barbs do you...lol


I like them now that I see they are a reasonable size. I would probably ditch the rubber grip rings though.


----------



## fshizl

Kevin, I havent seen you in my worklog in a while.. so decided to show you here....

LOL...


----------



## bundymania

That´s a nice combo of sleeve colors !


----------



## fshizl

Thanks Bundy!!! How are the aquagrafx waterblocks compared to the EK's when it comes to water flow?

I didnt find a good waterblock that matched the styling of the aquagrafx for my 6990, so i ended up getting the EK blocks...


----------



## bundymania

Here is my review









http://www.overclock.net/t/877481/user-review-gtx480-waterblocks-roundup


----------



## bundymania

Name 3 cases, where it fits in the top w/o modding


----------



## Ceadderman

932

HAF X

Antec 900?

What's the MFR Retail on that bad boy?









@nickbaldwin86... Didn't say I didn't like them. They're an acquired taste I'm sure. I wouldn't use them but that doesn't mean I don't like them. Personally they could do away with the tool slot and shrink the diameter of the inside collar of the barb by a .100mm and knurl it to allow for finger tightening and install the tubing slide the collar down and tighten it into place hiding the knurl. That's how I would do it anyway.

@kgbmx... I do agree with you about being pretty oblivious, but everyone is human and distractions happen.







The Orings are for grip. Having test fit one of my comps and tightened the collar all the way snug, I can tell you that I would have loved to have had o-rings on my comps. I had to use a rubber band cinched up to be able to get that bad boy loose. Cause hard as I tried to get the collar loose I think I lost more skin on it than it budged, which wasn't at all.









I'm not saying people are daft and I'm not saying I don't like them. Just sharing a couple observations without having them in my hands. Maybe it's nothing, but I doubt I would get them as sharp as they look however.









~Ceadder


----------



## driftingforlife

Just switched to Duel loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Neggy got new blocks!


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 932
> HAF X
> Antec 900?
> 
> What's the MFR Retail on that bad boy?


80 Euro


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 932
> HAF X
> Antec 900?
> 
> What's the MFR Retail on that bad boy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 80 Euro
Click to expand...

So was I correct on those Cases? Cause I think that NZXT Phantom would allow it to mount up top as well, but I could be wrong on that. I know that it has some beefy fans up top.









Thanks for the price. That's not bad at all and would save me some ka-ching for fans, splitter cable, shrouds and gaskets.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl*
> 
> Kevin, I havent seen you in my worklog in a while.. so decided to show you here....
> LOL...


I just saw it right before I checked this thread







it looks fantastic. I am not normally a fan of the military themed mods, but the way you have done yours makes it look awesome. very clean.

I have not commented in the build logs as much recently just because I am busy. I am still watching though!

Also, I will soon start commenting more again because I am bringing MOTM back!







I'll have to advertise, which means lots of posting


----------



## Kenetic

Put together my new X79 rig today. Only just got it running so havnt done alot yet but it is a BEAST.

Managed to squeeze a hardware labs black ice SR 120mm radiator into the drive bay in my HAF 932.

So far temps with stock cpu and 580's at 950/1900/2100 @ 1.125v...... GFX idle - 21c / load - 32c.... CPU idle - 25c / load 40c. Very happy









Hydro copper gtx 580's









Finished loop









Running (poor pic as its now dark)


----------



## Alex132

You should really get a better case


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Los Hog

@Kenetic Great job


----------



## kevingreenbmx

WOOT!!!

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Check out the new badge!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Grats!


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesome kgbmx!









An update on that xtreme 400 Rad?...

Won't fit in a 932 w/o modification. The 5.25 bay either needs to have a section cut out of it or the entire bay removed because the Rad is 200mm wide. I know, duhr right.









~Ceadder


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> I just saw it right before I checked this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it looks fantastic. I am not normally a fan of the military themed mods, but the way you have done yours makes it look awesome. very clean.
> I have not commented in the build logs as much recently just because I am busy. I am still watching though!
> Also, I will soon start commenting more again because I am bringing MOTM back!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to advertise, which means lots of posting


Wow, I forgot about Polemos. The last time I checked it was when it was on hold.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> WOOT!!!
> 
> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
> 
> Check out the new badge!


WOW thats great congrats


----------



## Systemlord

Excellent temps, though I think anybody can rule out chipset/VRM water cooling since the VGA's are in the way!


----------



## chewdude

Kenetic- Very nice build look aces.

Kevin!! Woot gratz on now being the man.

BTW just finished my water-cool on the entertainment pc here is a couple pics. Still have some sleeving to do but I hate it so much lol love the look hate the pain in my hands for a week after I do it.


----------



## BigCactus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chewdude*
> 
> Kenetic- Very nice build look aces.
> Kevin!! Woot gratz on now being the man.
> BTW just finished my water-cool on the entertainment pc here is a couple pics. Still have some sleeving to do but I hate it so much lol love the look hate the pain in my hands for a week after I do it.


Thankyou! I've been getting really annoyed by these guys thinking they must tuck away every single wire, lol. This is a breath of fresh air.


----------



## chewdude

lol not sure how to take that... I think there nice and i want it to look good but yah you get it right.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chewdude*


Cute tubing. :3 LOL.
Cable management is a MUST for me, whether if I'm air cooling or water cooling...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Thanks chewdude!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigCactus*
> 
> Thankyou! I've been getting really annoyed by these guys thinking they must tuck away every single wire, lol. This is a breath of fresh air.


Wait what? You don't like a clean looking build? You have to be extremely ADD or something to not have stray wiring drive you crazy.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BigCactus*
> 
> Thankyou! I've been getting really annoyed by these guys thinking they must tuck away every single wire, lol. This is a breath of fresh air.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait what? You don't like a clean looking build? You have to be extremely ADD or something to not have stray wiring drive you crazy.
Click to expand...

Or maybe most of us have OCD


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigCactus*
> 
> Thankyou! I've been getting really annoyed by these guys thinking they must tuck away every single wire, lol. This is a breath of fresh air.


bc you can have a $10,000 rig and have it look like crap without good cable management. It's not like it's hard to do. None of my cases have any cable management grommets or areas built in. Only takes a little while to make it look good. Sadly it takes tons of time and money to make it look fantastic.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Or maybe most of us have OCD


I have OCD with my XTrac pad, MUST KEEP THE RESIDUE OFF IT WITH FABRIC CLEANER.


----------



## Scorpion49

So I got my water-cooled P280 up and running today. This is NOT a water friendly case for any who are interested in it.

Main problems:
1) fan PCB above the rear fan is in the way of a rear 120mm, even removed the standoff pegs are in the way
2) Top 240 slot can only hold a slim style radiator, with 25mm fans my radiator (MCP220) is pushing against the 8-pin connector on the top of my board. It is not possible to do a push-pull

On the plus side, the Bit Fenix Spectre fans are EXCELLENT. Very very quiet and move a lot of air for 950-1000rpm. Works well with the low FPI radiators.

Anyway, I'm still waiting on my 580+waterblock to arrive, when it does I will just split the bottom tube and add in the 580:


----------



## Bouf0010

not too bad considering the case youre working with. what about putting the 120 rad where your pump/res is and moving the pump/res next to the psu?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> not too bad considering the case youre working with. what about putting the 120 rad where your pump/res is and moving the pump/res next to the psu?


I'm considering it, and a few other things. I may move to a bay res and put a 240 on the HDD cage. I may also switch cases (again). I'm still searching for the perfect case, trial and error is actually fun because I get to set up so many different ways. Mostly occupying myself while I save for X79.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

So, I have a favor to ask of EVERY person who is sub'd to this thread or checks it regularly.

MOTM is coming back next month, and I am working on a new list of rules and guidelines for the contest. I would REALLY like to get member's input on what I have so for since the contest is ultimately for the members.

please read through this and leave comments in that thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/342100/official-motm-archive-returning-january-2012/230#post_15913955

Thanks guys!


----------



## ramkatral

Well, I ordered a 2500k today. And to go with it, I decided its time to take my water cooling to the next level. My RASA kit has served me well and has been an excellent kit. However, I have this setup ready to order. Just wanna take a few critiques and suggestions before I charge it, so I'm holding off on ordering until tomorrow after some responses. Here's the new setup I'm considering:

1 x Swiftech Apogee HD CPU block

1 x EK Full cover GPU block and Backplate

1 x Asetek WaterChill Xtreme Pump/Res combo (This one I'm not totally sure about, but reviews are positive and it has serious power. The other option is a Swiftech MCP655 pump with an XSPC single bay res. I don't want to keep the double bay res/pump I have now. It takes up too much space)

1 x XSPC RX120 Radiator

1 x XSPC RS240 Radiator (Carried over from current RASA loop)

And of course the usual assortment of fans and Primochill tubing.

So tell me what you think. I'm thinking the two rads should be sufficient for CPU and GPU. I don't do a whole lot of overclocking on it anyway, so my focus is mainly on an attempt at 5Ghz on the 2500k. I would go with another 240 rad, but then I'd have both the top and bottom filled, and then it'd be a lot harder to find a friendly place for the pump.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Well, I ordered a 2500k today. And to go with it, I decided its time to take my water cooling to the next level. My RASA kit has served me well and has been an excellent kit. However, I have this setup ready to order. Just wanna take a few critiques and suggestions before I charge it, so I'm holding off on ordering until tomorrow after some responses. Here's the new setup I'm considering:
> 1 x Swiftech Apogee HD CPU block
> 1 x EK Full cover GPU block and Backplate
> 1 x Asetek WaterChill Xtreme Pump/Res combo (This one I'm not totally sure about, but reviews are positive and it has serious power. The other option is a Swiftech MCP655 pump with an XSPC single bay res. I don't want to keep the double bay res/pump I have now. It takes up too much space)
> 1 x XSPC RX120 Radiator
> 1 x XSPC RS240 Radiator (Carried over from current RASA loop)
> And of course the usual assortment of fans and Primochill tubing.
> So tell me what you think. I'm thinking the two rads should be sufficient for CPU and GPU. I don't do a whole lot of overclocking on it anyway, so my focus is mainly on an attempt at 5Ghz on the 2500k. I would go with another 240 rad, but then I'd have both the top and bottom filled, and then it'd be a lot harder to find a friendly place for the pump.


The Asetek WaterChill Xtreme Pump/Res combo looks like garbage, the MCP655 has proven itself as a very strong pump, go with what you know! I hate bay reservoirs, not only do they take up to much space there sometimes difficult to bleed.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> The Asetek WaterChill Xtreme Pump/Res combo looks like garbage, the MCP655 has proven itself as a very strong pump, go with what you know! I hate bay reservoirs, not only do they take up to much space there sometimes difficult to bleed.


This. ^^

My rule of thumb is a 240 rad for every block in the loop,you may struggle a bit with just a 240 and a 120.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

-delete- double post


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I'm considering it, and a few other things. I may move to a bay res and put a 240 on the HDD cage. I may also switch cases (again). I'm still searching for the perfect case, trial and error is actually fun because I get to set up so many different ways. Mostly occupying myself while I save for X79.


Get some angled fittings please.


----------



## qwwwizx

My CM Stacker 830 Watercooled system. Not completely finished, but will never be. Thats the fun with it 

Big radiator in the front Hwlabs SR-1 420, 3x Prolimtech Vortex 140mm (146m^2) as Push. On the other side I got 3x Silverstone 140mm AP141 as pull get a good airflow further on into the chassis.


Here its on! No room for CD-rom drivers, or Bay reservoirs. Harddisks is SSD only and they are placed on the right side of the chassis with all the hidden wires:


Inside it... The paint job wasnt really good, so I wont call that finished. I use Generic CPU and GPU blocks only. On the bottom of the chassis there is a hole, where I usually have 2 silverstone 121FM fans, to push air directly up on the Graphic cards memory and VRMs. Works well, but looks ugly because they are white. I will have to do something about that too.


Another pic from inside:


Loads of air in the system. I got some turbolens in the reservoir, but I know how to get rid of it. Will do it one of the christmas days.


This is what my fans from the bottom of the chassis sees:


Still some wires to mess with, but I have to get bubbles out of the system, so I will do it afterwards.


And finally a picture more with the system on:


Its an everyday machine for work and games (BF3, Track Mania etc) and it have been running 5GHz+ (5Ghz - 5.4GHz) since I got the CPU in January 2011. The Graphics card is a Gigabyte GTX580 SOC, which is completely ok for games. I run it at 1GHz on the GPU and memory at 2.4GHz. Temps on the GPU reach appr. 50c in BF3 and with all the air in my loop there is still room for improvement.

I have consideret to get a TJ11 chassis. But I am unsure if a SR-1 420 or 560 will fit in the lower radiator room. Maybe some of you can tell?


----------



## Badwrench

Mind if I jump in?




























My loop:
EK Acetal AMD block
XSPC Dual bay res/pump combo (mounted 90 deg. inside case as there are no dual 5.25" bays in a waterbox)
RS240 rad w/ 2 - 120x38 High flow Panaflows in push


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Los Hog

Both of those systems look great


----------



## ramkatral

Only problem with not using a single bay res is how much I would struggle to find a place to mount a regular res. I was almost considering just going the fill port route.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Get some angled fittings please.


Don't need them for this, and it has no window so it doesn't need to look pretty, just functional this time. Anyway, this build is temporary. I just got an email back from Jim at CaseLabs, I will probably be ordering an M8 in the next week or so. I'm tired of trying to fit things into cases it wasn't meant to go in.


----------



## 12Cores

Updated -

Used funds originally put aside to upgrade to Bulldozer to watercool my GPU's

Watercooled my 5770's
Added 120mm rad
New CPU waterblock





http://3dmark.com/3dm11/2298343

Rig done for now!


----------



## GoodInk

I'm not getting any love in my build log and I'm needing some feed back. The way I was trying to mount the pump really wasn't working. I couldn't keep it from sagging, plus I had no way of decoupling it from the case. I finally admitted defeat and came up with this. I'll be making a platform out of wood and using foam to decouple it from the case. Let me know that you think.


This is what I was trying


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Here is mine. I will be water cooling my GPU also. Not sure if Thermochill PA 120.3 can handle 2500K + HD 6990. Do you gusy think i need more RAD power?


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I'm not getting any love in my build log and I'm needing some feed back. The way I was trying to mount the pump really wasn't working. I couldn't keep it from sagging, plus I had no way of decoupling it from the case. I finally admitted defeat and came up with this. I'll be making a platform out of wood and using foam to decouple it from the case. Let me know that you think.
> [/CENTER]


It looks like maybe you could have attached the support piece to the HDD cage to prevent it from sagging? However if you build a sort of shelf with either wood or maybe painted acrylic that may actually allow for a cleaner looking build?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I'm not getting any love in my build log and I'm needing some feed back. The way I was trying to mount the pump really wasn't working. I couldn't keep it from sagging, plus I had no way of decoupling it from the case. I finally admitted defeat and came up with this. I'll be making a platform out of wood and using foam to decouple it from the case. Let me know that you think.
> [/CENTER]
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like maybe you could have attached the support piece to the HDD cage to prevent it from sagging? However if you build a sort of shelf with either wood or maybe painted acrylic that may actually allow for a cleaner looking build?
Click to expand...

I was going for a floating look with that setup, but once filled with water and the tubing pushing on it, it sagged pretty bad. The mockup with the cardboard will be painted acrylic covering the wooden stand for the pump/res combo.


----------



## Bouf0010

what about attaching another piece to help pull up the weight of the pump/res. It would prob be nicely hidden behind the pump too.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> 
> 
> what about attaching another piece to help pull up the weight of the pump/res. It would prob be nicely hidden behind the pump too.


That may be possible, but I still won't be able to decouple it from the case. Having attached to the MB tray seems to amplify the vibrations. If I use foam on were it mounts to the MB tray then it will sag again.







I really under estimated how big and heavy this pump was. Oh BTW I have about a 3 inch long back plate for this too. 1.5 inches up and down.


----------



## tipo33

Where did you get the Overclock.net fan grille??


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipo33*
> 
> Where did you get the Overclock.net fan grille??


FTW PC sells them. They're a vendor on here.


----------



## WeirdHarold

This is an awesome thread, and I'll have to post pics of mine soon when I get it done


----------



## tipo33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> FTW PC sells them. They're a vendor on here.


Awesome. thanx


----------



## Qu1ckset

what ek product is this below the rez with red liquad in this picture, dual pumps?


----------



## Scorpion49

Looks like THIS. Its a dual D5 top you can add a res to.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Looks like THIS. Its a dual D5 top you can add a res to.


si would that be two pumps working together or just two separate loops go threw that?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> si would that be two pumps working together or just two separate loops go threw that?


Yes, it runs them in serial, it only has one input and output.


----------



## Blindsay

Finished mine up

Here are a few pics but the link for the full build is below



















http://www.overclock.net/t/1177863/my-mm-h2go-build-thread


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Hey, if any of you are good with photography and graphic design I could use some help with the MOTM banner and carousel Image. (it could get you some free OCN stuff if your images are used)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1183327/mod-of-the-month-banner-and-carousel-image/0_20

Thanks guys!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> what ek product is this below the rez with red liquad in this picture, dual pumps?


for as much money as origin charges for the Big O it seems like it has inexcusably crappy workmanship. Looks like I should start selling rigs for $5000 over cost. Thought it was going to take a lot to put a Big-O to shame, but I guess not.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Here is mine. I will be water cooling my GPU also. Not sure if Thermochill PA 120.3 can handle 2500K + HD 6990. Do you gusy think i need more RAD power?


From the pic, it looks you have a 6950 + 6970? Your TC 360 should be good for them and your cpu. SB chips are designed cool and so are the Caymans. If I remember correctly, my old unlock tr-fire 6950 setup, each would max out ~40c on stock 6970 clocks. Though I was running excessive rad (







). Try running them first and if your temps are a bit high at load, then through in a high-performance 240mm rad on the rear-outside of the case.


----------



## AdvanSuper

As of recently I was wondering why my water levels were going lower... Turns out most likely due to the vibrations of my UK's it drove the screw a bit further into the rad and popped it. Either that or it just failed on its own. Been running the same setup for well over 6 months now... Running the rad passively though with no OC on the CPU or GPU for good measure lol, put the rad on my desk outside of my computer







. I don't even want to turn the UK's back on due to it being sooo quiet.


----------



## Systemlord

I must ask what heck is a UK?


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I must ask what heck is a UK?


United Kingdom Duhh









JK

Scythe Ultra Kaze's


----------



## eduardmc

This pic were taken with my cell until my camera arrive. i want to thanx lutro0s for the awesome sleeving.


----------



## MKHunt

New toy! Backplate to arrive Wednesday.



Boy does it ever make for awkward tubing routing in a 690II going to a bottom rad though. Might need some zip ties to tame the tube's desire to kink a wee bit. Just enough to drive me crazy.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> This pic were taken with my cell until my camera arrive. i want to thanx lutro0s for the awesome sleeving.


I know the color is a bit off here, but that looks sick because of it! GJ


----------



## cyberbeat

Here's mine for now, or until i can be bothered putting it back into it's case.
I was going to mod the 800D so removed it from there. But then my bank account balance said NO to that








That's my file server to the right of the pic, and my spare monitor on the left.


----------



## Defunctronin

First WC build.


----------



## Kthxbai

Just got my PCIE cables sleeved. First time doing it and took me quite a while, but I'm happy / proud. Buy my fingers kill haha.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania




----------



## CiBi

Just read the enire thread, took me 2 days, amazing stuff guys. I think I'm hooked,
I already started planning out my first WC experience


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


This was your sexiest post ever!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Just read the enire thread, took me 2 days, amazing stuff guys. I think I'm hooked,
> I already started planning out my first WC experience


be sure to post what you end up with


----------



## Farmer Boe

Damn you bundymania! And all your delicious watercooling goods!


----------



## Kenetic

Awsome pics there bundy


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Do like the lighting and the esthetics of the little bubbles in that T-Virus reservoir.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I love the silver fittings, but I have one question. Do they tarnish?


----------



## eduardmc

Took some photos of my rig using my casio exilim instead of my crappy cell. .


----------



## bundymania

@GoodInk: Nope, i had no probs using them for some weeks. It´s not like touching "pure" copper, where you can see every fingerprint after a while. Each fitting costs 10 euros here in Ger @caseking


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*


Superb.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I love the silver fittings, but I have one question. Do they tarnish?


Don't forget not to use these silver fittings with some brand manufactures water blocks, some will void your warranty!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Don't forget not to use these silver fittings with some brand manufactures water blocks, some will void your warranty!


EK and Koolance are the one's I've heard will void your warranty. I skipped the kill coil in my current build since I ended up w/ ek blocks (not by choice but through trade). I haven't checked mine but I'm planning some major changes and I can hopefully check them then. I'm only running distilled and Mayhems dye.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

*Mod of the Month is back!*

January 2012 Nominations are live!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1184204/january-2012-mod-of-the-month-contest-nominations-open-until-january-22nd/0_20

You can also subscribe to this thread to get notification whenever a new month's nominations start or the poll is posted:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1183902/official-ocn-mod-of-the-month-contest-rules-and-discussion/0_20

With all the awesome builds I see in here every day I know you all are ready to see who's is best! Please nominate yourself or any other awesome build you see on the site!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I love the silver fittings, but I have one question. Do they tarnish?
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget not to use these silver fittings with some brand manufactures water blocks, some will void your warranty!
Click to expand...

Are you referring to what wermad is?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Don't forget not to use these silver fittings with some brand manufactures water blocks, some will void your warranty!
> 
> 
> 
> EK and Koolance are the one's I've heard will void your warranty. I skipped the kill coil in my current build since I ended up w/ ek blocks (not by choice but through trade). I haven't checked mine but I'm planning some major changes and I can hopefully check them then. I'm only running distilled and Mayhems dye.
Click to expand...

Wasn't that just for PTNuke and not silver?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> *Mod of the Month is back!*
> 
> January 2012 Nominations are live!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1184204/january-2012-mod-of-the-month-contest-nominations-open-until-january-22nd/0_20
> 
> You can also subscribe to this thread to get notification whenever a new month's nominations start or the poll is posted:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1183902/official-ocn-mod-of-the-month-contest-rules-and-discussion/0_20
> 
> With all the awesome builds I see in here every day I know you all are ready to see who's is best! Please nominate yourself or any other awesome build you see on the site!


----------



## Blindsay

Just wanted to share a couple more of my most recent build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Are you referring to what wermad is?
> Wasn't that just for PTNuke and not silver?


Ek is inserting a notice in their nickel blocks that copper sulfate biocides and silver may cause nickel degradation in their nickel nickel blocks. I'll look for it later and post their warning verbatim.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ek is inserting a notice in their nickel blocks that copper sulfate biocides and silver may cause nickel degradation in their nickel nickel blocks. I'll look for it later and post their warning verbatim.


What really causes nickel degradation is when you have nickel on top of copper with pits in the nickel plating, that has been proven.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> What really causes nickel degradation is when you have nickel on top of copper with pits in the nickel plating, that has been proven.


I know its all bs from them but they (and Koolance) are looking for ways to blame the end user. I know first hand since I was one of the "lucky" ones that had massive failure of their blocks.

A lot of the info I read was that ill prepared copper block/surface and low quality/minimal plating methods caused the nickel to separate. This is what I have believed. I've been using TFC nickel plated compression fittings as long as I've been using EK nickel blocks and non have ever degraded. Since I want to avoid another blow to the resale value of these new blocks I have, I left out any biocide and I'm leaning on luck. Eventually when i change my gpu(s) I'll switch to a copper block (I did enjoy HK







).


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Water Cooling is such a expensive hobby especilly for a Student. Just droped another $300. Thats ~ $800 so far. Got a HD 6990 block, RS360, fittings, tube, fans, adapters.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> *Mod of the Month is back!*
> January 2012 Nominations are live!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1184204/january-2012-mod-of-the-month-contest-nominations-open-until-january-22nd/0_20
> You can also subscribe to this thread to get notification whenever a new month's nominations start or the poll is posted:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1183902/official-ocn-mod-of-the-month-contest-rules-and-discussion/0_20
> With all the awesome builds I see in here every day I know you all are ready to see who's is best! Please nominate yourself or any other awesome build you see on the site!


Hells yes!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ek is inserting a notice in their nickel blocks that copper sulfate biocides and silver may cause nickel degradation in their nickel nickel blocks. I'll look for it later and post their warning verbatim.


No such notice in my EN 590 block that came last Thursday. In fact, in the instructions that came with the block it said that EK highly recommends an algicide.


----------



## Warfox101

I took some of your guys advice and added some 90's. i have to say I'm glad i did it changed the whole look and cleaned it up a little also added some new front panel goodies.


















This next pic the tube that runs from the left port on the motherboard block will be removed soon. but first i need to grab me one more pmp450s pump for a duel loop. The CPU and vrm's will be on one loop using the top rad. and the motherboard block and the cards will be on the other loop using the bottom 240 rad.
Ill have a tube running from the right port on the motherboard block to the res on the front of the case. i don't think i will like the look of a tube running from the front of the case to the motherboard block. I thought of running the loop from the top card, into the motherboard block, out of the motherboard block, back into the top card. However i'm not sure what that will do for good flow through the card blocks.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfox101*
> 
> I took some of your guys advice and added some 90's. i have to say I'm glad i did it changed the whole look and cleaned it up a little also added some new front panel goodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pic the tube that runs from the left port on the motherboard block will be removed soon. but first i need to grab me one more pmp450s pump for a duel loop. The CPU and vrm's will be on one loop using the top rad. and the motherboard block and the cards will be on the other loop using the bottom 240 rad.
> Ill have a tube running from the right port on the motherboard block to the res on the front of the case. i don't think i will like the look of a tube running from the front of the case to the motherboard block. I thought of running the loop from the top card, into the motherboard block, out of the motherboard block, back into the top card. However i'm not sure what that will do for good flow through the card blocks.


That looks very nice. Cant wait for Friday for my parts too come.


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfox101*


So you've entered the thetechsource.tv contest huh? Damn!







Wanted to participate, but I don't really have any chances now!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Warfox101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> So you've entered the thetechsource.tv contest huh? Damn!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to participate, but I don't really have any chances now!


Yea I entered, i don't stand a chance there are some nice builds entered. And the contest won't close until end of December... I think lol.


----------



## Farmer Boe

I love that Crucial ram there Warfox101. Reminds me of the old DDR2 Tracer Ballistix i used to have!


----------



## Warfox101

Thanks man, yea the newer Smart tracer allow you to change the color and monitor the temps and the ability to change the light pattern via software.


----------



## MKHunt

Bleeding. No, I'm not the greatest photographer, but my EK backplate came today and it looks fantastic.





The tubing wants to kink but I say NO! Then I apply zip ties and it bends to my will. Oh lawd that pun. I promise it was unintentional.

I feel like a kid at Christmastime. My rig should be alive again!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mend0k

So here's mine. Its not the best but i'm proud to say that it's my very 1st rig and w/c system. Hopefully after I finish college and become a medtech and after getting my 01' dodge viper gts, I will get a much better rig setup =].

Any type of criticism or tips is welcome









Btw anyone know wher I can get a green led psu? Or how to make all the lights red? .... i'm a redfanatic..


----------



## MKHunt

Going red shouldn't be hard. Just LED swaps and a red cathode tube. If your PSU had LEDs, I wouldn't touch them; just mask them with black paint or something reversible in case of RMA. How to change the fan LEDs differs from model to model.


----------



## mend0k

Yeah, but just don't know how to change the LED's on any type of fan is all., I was thinking of just changing all the fans to red ones, but that seems more expensive.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mend0k*
> 
> Yeah, but just don't know how to change the LED's on any type of fan is all., I was thinking of just changing all the fans to red ones, but that seems more expensive.


If you have a decent soldering iron then yes, it's significantly more expensive. To find out how to change the LEDs, you'd need to post pictures and make/model for each kind of fan you have or do searches for those models. I'd recommend the latter first. Though if you have some fans that aren't on rads, you can pick up some Cooler Master R4 red LED fans for $6-7 each. Or go Yate Loon mediums from Petra's (if they have them in red).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Doober

I think I am worthy of finally joining this club, I modded a LianLi A59 and this is the outcome

outside 

inside 

I was even able to put a yate loon 20mm fan in the front to keep an intake and a gt-AP13 as exhaust at top

tell me what you think

-Doober


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doober*
> 
> I think I am worthy of finally joining this club, I modded a LianLi A59 and this is the outcome
> outside
> inside
> I was even able to put a yate loon 20mm fan in the front to keep an intake and a gt-AP13 as exhaust at top
> tell me what you think
> -Doober


Damn man! I can't believe you got all of that into that itty bitty Lian Li case! I'm impressed that you cooled two gpus, a cpu, and managed to fit a 360 rad in there. You sir, are hardcore.


----------



## Aleckazee

This is not only my first watercooling loop but it is also my first computer I have ever built, so I'm fairly proud of my work















Already have plans for my next build, mini ATX watercooled


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doober*
> 
> I think I am worthy of finally joining this club, I modded a LianLi A59 and this is the outcome...
> 
> *snip*
> 
> inside
> 
> I was even able to put a yate loon 20mm fan in the front to keep an intake and a gt-AP13 as exhaust at top
> 
> tell me what you think
> 
> -Doober


That is pretty nice but I would now look into a Bay Pump/Res and get that pump off the fan on your 360. It's no wonder your pad is that thick. That's a lot of vibration there.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Ello from south







this is my noob pc = D love it just need some tune here and there :S it is really a road with out an end







.


----------



## wermad

^^^Interesting build. That's a lot of rad for a Thuban if you don't mind me critiquing your build. Needs a little tidying up of the wires and that would give it a lift


----------



## kamikaze_

RX480 + locked CPU = waste of money.








How far along did you get that Phenom II 1055T to overclock, Noob_with_Tools?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> RX480 + locked CPU = waste of money.


Not True,can still get high OC's with the ref clock.


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^Interesting build. That's a lot of rad for a Thuban if you don't mind me critiquing your build. Needs a little tidying up of the wires and that would give it a lift


Agreee







, if I find some clips for cables with an adhesive pad to place in strategic locations and be able to hide cables, plus the main idea is to mount a waterblock for the GPU and maintain good temperatures. I want to improve the visual and have a good flow of air over the components. but the budget for this year is gonee


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> RX480 + locked CPU = waste of money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How far along did you get that Phenom II 1055T to overclock, Noob_with_Tools?


sure, but with this cpu and mobo I have reach like 4090 mhz with all cores @ 1.46 v , with just 8 GB of ram @ close to 1866 mhz = 72.4 gflops with linx pack.
now it is running @ 3.78 GHZ @ 1.40 v , with 16 GB of ram @ close to 1833 mhz = 71 Gflops with all ram, temp close to 49 full load, room 29 grades, an vcores close to 55 all time. the next move will be the waterblock for gpu







and i will try to overclock the video card close to 1 ghz . and have some temp close to 56 on full load. but my budget for this year is goneee .


----------



## Alex132

49'c load with 3.78Ghz at 1.4v? That was about the temp of my aircooled 965 @ 3.8Ghz / 1.4v under load


----------



## kamikaze_

=/


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 49'c load with 3.78Ghz at 1.4v? That was about the temp of my aircooled 965 @ 3.8Ghz / 1.4v under load


Wow you are lucky, here is a bit hot all the year, it was with your intel chip ?? wich are yout actual temps, meybe going to try sandy or ivy next year. but don't know what will be a better move wait for new mobo coming on 2Q 2012 or just try your actual ring. It will help me to gain like 10 more fps in some games. and less heat coming from my cpu.


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> =/










your pc is a dream machine =D


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noob_with_Tools*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 49'c load with 3.78Ghz at 1.4v? That was about the temp of my aircooled 965 @ 3.8Ghz / 1.4v under load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow you are lucky, here is a bit hot all the year, it was with your intel chip ?? wich are yout actual temps, meybe going to try sandy or ivy next year. but don't know what will be a better move wait for new mobo coming on 2Q 2012 or just try your actual ring. It will help me to gain like 10 more fps in some games. and less heat coming from my cpu.
Click to expand...

I meant aircooled 965 as in my old Phenom II 965 BE.

My max temp with my 5Ghz Sandy is about 62'c on air

Also I saw a lot of max/min FPS gains in games that are CPU-dependent (ie SC2 went from 11fps min to about 50fps min) when I went from my Phenom II to my 2500K


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Here's my first watercooling attempt. More functional than pretty. But I'm very pleased with the results







Temps are great, sitting on 4.8GHz and 700 on each core of the GTX590 no sweat.


















Will be taking some nice DSLR shots this weekend


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I meant aircooled 965 as in my old Phenom II 965 BE.
> My max temp with my 5Ghz Sandy is about 62'c on air
> Also I saw a lot of max/min FPS gains in games that are CPU-dependent (ie SC2 went from 11fps min to about 50fps min) when I went from my Phenom II to my 2500K


Thx







, wich is your room temp ?? and like a lot the idea of get 50 fps @ min. I will try next ivy 3Q 2012 but for now i am done with my lover PC


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*
> 
> Here's my first watercooling attempt. More functional than pretty. But I'm very pleased with the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are great, sitting on 4.8GHz and 700 on each core of the GTX590 no sweat.
> 
> Will be taking some nice DSLR shots this weekend


Looks great!


----------



## Ensamada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*
> 
> Here's my first watercooling attempt. More functional than pretty. But I'm very pleased with the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are great, sitting on 4.8GHz and 700 on each core of the GTX590 no sweat.


thank you for posting this!







i have a 600t and it's very similar to the 650d, internal wise. now i know what my water loop will look like!

OT: what quick disconnect are you using after the gpu?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*
> 
> Here's my first watercooling attempt. More functional than pretty. But I'm very pleased with the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are great, sitting on 4.8GHz and 700 on each core of the GTX590 no sweat.
> 
> Will be taking some nice DSLR shots this weekend


Looks good.


----------



## bundymania

XTL vs. HD


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Im using the Koolance Extreme Flow QDC 1/2" ID 3/4" OD G1/4" Thread


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> RX480 + locked CPU = waste of money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How far along did you get that Phenom II 1055T to overclock, Noob_with_Tools?


You do know watercooling isn't always done just for cooling high overclocks, some people like really quiet PC's.


----------



## HAFenvy

I water cooled to make my machine very quiet... all my fans run on the lowest speed and a high overclock is not necessary for what my machine is used for.


----------



## kamikaze_

It's overkill, just sayin'.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*
> 
> Here's my first watercooling attempt. More functional than pretty. But I'm very pleased with the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are great, sitting on 4.8GHz and 700 on each core of the GTX590 no sweat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be taking some nice DSLR shots this weekend


looks good, think i just found my new favorite mid tower for watercooling


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> It's overkill, just sayin'.


well this is overkill.net


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## mr. biggums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> snip
> 
> 
> 
> I love the silver fittings, but I have one question. Do they tarnish?
Click to expand...

i've got 2 in my loop at the moment and so far 5 months of use and they still look like day 1.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> snip
> 
> 
> 
> I love the silver fittings, but I have one question. Do they tarnish?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i've got 2 in my loop at the moment and so far 5 months of use and they still look like day 1.
Click to expand...

Good to know, and thanks +rep


----------



## derickwm

New loop coming in January







can't wait!


----------



## w00dzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpm666*
> 
> Ira is the king of function/form.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm STILL working on completing mine!
> 
> Sys1 - GTZ, 2x355's w/XSPC tops, 2xMCR320's, (now) 1xXSPC 4870X2 Razor FC
> Sys2 - GT, 2x355's w/XSPC tops, 2xMCR220's, 2x3870's w/EK 3870 FC's


MAN THAT IS FRECKING AWESOME


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w00dzy*
> 
> MAN THAT IS FRECKING AWESOME


He also took down that box out side, and went into the ground with a geothermal loop


----------



## AdvanSuper

So I bought GT's when I ordered my replacement rad... They are weeeelllllllll worth the money, I can't even hear my PC... I can hear my SSD reading and writing


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> New loop coming in January
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't wait!


Kewl, any hints?

I bought a new case so I shall be getting some pics up in the next few weeks. Loop is still about the same though with less (I think







).


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You do know watercooling isn't always done just for cooling high overclocks, some people like really quiet PC's.


I hear you there, that's why I'll be running a SR-1 560 + SR-1 360 together in one loop with only a Sandy Brigde-E and to start out only one next gen Nvidia graphics card. Call me crazy but silence is golden!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kewl, any hints?
> I bought a new case so I shall be getting some pics up in the next few weeks. Loop is still about the same though with less (I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


It'll be the first time for cooling a motherboard for me and 3x EX360 rads. Should be fun







it'll be a nice upgrade from my "first time loop" to a thought out "artistic" loop. Hehe.


----------



## Snotty

well done Woodzy







"Out There" literally. Very nice work
(lol , i'm just sitting here chuckling away with a smile of admiration for the "outside the square" ability of overclocking hardware nerds)
A lot to be said for getting all the noise outside too. Personally, have all mine on the end of 4 x 10 M boosted usb cables, a 10 M hdmi cable and a 10 M 3.5mm for sound







on the other side of a door in another room.
gl n hf


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snotty*
> 
> well done Woodzy rpm666
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Out There" literally. Very nice work
> (lol , i'm just sitting here chuckling away with a smile of admiration for the "outside the square" ability of overclocking hardware nerds)
> A lot to be said for getting all the noise outside too. Personally, have all mine on the end of 4 x 10 M boosted usb cables, a 10 M hdmi cable and a 10 M 3.5mm for sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the other side of a door in another room.
> gl n hf


Fixed


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*
> 
> Here's my first watercooling attempt. More functional than pretty. But I'm very pleased with the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are great, sitting on 4.8GHz and 700 on each core of the GTX590 no sweat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be taking some nice DSLR shots this weekend


nice ring







just take atention to the pump, it die fast.


----------



## Dradien

I have a stupid question that I've been meaning to ask for a long time...

Is there a way to get tubing off of barbs (7/16" on 1/2" barbs)without cutting it? I know watercooling is more expensive then air cooling, but I REALLY hate reordering tubing when I wanna redo something with my loop, or just wanna mess with it, etc etc...

Thanks!


----------



## rockcoeur

I heard you only have to pull real hard on them. They don't get their initial shape back though.


----------



## Winrahr

^Yep, just heat them up and pull on them. Just like putting them on, you need some heat and strength


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradien*
> 
> I have a stupid question that I've been meaning to ask for a long time...
> Is there a way to get tubing off of barbs (7/16" on 1/2" barbs)without cutting it? I know watercooling is more expensive then air cooling, but I REALLY hate reordering tubing when I wanna redo something with my loop, or just wanna mess with it, etc etc...
> Thanks!


If you can unscrew the barb they are stuck on you can usually bend them in ways to get the barb off.


----------



## tuffarts

.

It's a bit GETO, but I am waiting on a replacment CPU mounting screw
RAD in background not attached yet is going to be fitted to side later rad on top will be fitted above case on custom stand.


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradien*
> 
> I have a stupid question that I've been meaning to ask for a long time...
> Is there a way to get tubing off of barbs (7/16" on 1/2" barbs)without cutting it? I know watercooling is more expensive then air cooling, but I REALLY hate reordering tubing when I wanna redo something with my loop, or just wanna mess with it, etc etc...
> Thanks!


I have the same setup. I soak the ends in HOT (microwaved) water for a while and then grab the barb with pliers and twist it off. The heat expands the tube and makes it more pliable so it comes off more easily


----------



## Dradien

Thanks guys for the suggestions. Going to go at them with a hairdryer later.

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradien*
> 
> I have a stupid question that I've been meaning to ask for a long time...
> Is there a way to get tubing off of barbs (7/16" on 1/2" barbs)without cutting it? I know watercooling is more expensive then air cooling, but I REALLY hate reordering tubing when I wanna redo something with my loop, or just wanna mess with it, etc etc...
> Thanks!


Sounds like you need some Koolance QDC, if you use 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD tubing you'll need a female and male QDC. If you use 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD tubing you'll need a female and male QDC.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Sounds like you need some Koolance QDC, if you use 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD tubing you'll need a female and male QDC. If you use 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD tubing you'll need a female and male QDC.


That, and switch to compression fittings, if you don't wanna worry about clamp hold-downs or wire ties.


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Be gentle, its my first non-kit build. It started as the Rasa RS360 kit, and I added an EX360, two swiftech MCW82s, replaced the res and the pump. I am going to get the swiftech crossfire bridge and put the GPUs in parallel and I think that will clean up the tubing a bunch. Also started out with regular barbs to save money.

This job is where I found out how much better a corded Dremel works over a cordless...


----------



## wermad

One of the circuit breakers went (most likely from the heater I was running). Switched the breaker back on, powered on rig, cpu over heating error (@ 97°c







), pump doesn't power back on







. Its probably dead









Time to look for a replacement









btw, new case incoming









edit: She might still be alive!!!!! testing in progress...


----------



## Warfox101

I love Blue... Nie build Gat3Keep3r


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One of the circuit breakers went (most likely from the heater I was running). Switched the breaker back on, powered on rig, cpu over heating error (@ 97°c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), pump doesn't power back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its probably dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to look for a replacement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, new case incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: She might still be alive!!!!! testing in progress...


97 C. on water, HOW? My circuit breaker, when I was moving my audio receiver while it was on playing music, the two speaker wires touched, and my Logitech Illuminated Ultrathin was killed. When I plug the USB in, it says unrecognized device. -.- Now I have to use a PS/2 until I decide to buy a Saitek Eclipse II keyboard. I'm not gonna buy the same stuff again, but if it was my CPU with a warranty, I will have just a replacement. I just don't understand though, the two wires touching on my 3000W stereo touch, currents through a completely different plugin on the wall to another socket, into a 80+ Gold certified power supply ONLY to effect my keyboard. What the hell!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> 97 C. on water, HOW? My circuit breaker, when I was moving my audio receiver while it was on playing music, the two speaker wires touched, and my Logitech Illuminated Ultrathin was killed. When I plug the USB in, it says unrecognized device. -.- Now I have to use a PS/2 until I decide to buy a Saitek Eclipse II keyboard. I'm not gonna buy the same stuff again, but if it was my CPU with a warranty, I will have just a replacement. I just don't understand though, the two wires touching on my 3000W stereo touch, currents through a completely different plugin on the wall to another socket, into a 80+ Gold certified power supply ONLY to effect my keyboard. What the hell!!!


Well, the pump may have been brought back to life but one of my cards is not showing up in the nv cp. Device manager has a code 43 next to it. Could've been damaged by the power outage. The other two cards are working great.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, the pump may have been brought back to life but one of my cards is not showing up in the nv cp. Device manager has a code 43 next to it. Could've been damaged by the power outage. The other two cards are working great.


Sad day man, are the EVGA GTX 470's registered to the site before the month to register warranty RMA expired?
I didn't do that for both of my EVGA GTX 465's, one died a few months ago, but it was time to upgrade anyway since the GTX 580 is over a year old now.


----------



## jackofhearts495

It leaked the first time (didn't crank a barb tight enough I guess), but it's up and running! Now I just need that 6950...


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> It leaked the first time (didn't crank a barb tight enough I guess), but it's up and running! Now I just need that 6950...
> http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l562/jackofhearts495/P1020241.jpg
> http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l562/jackofhearts495/P1020242-1.jpg


Are my eyes playing tricks on me or is your cpu block not mounted and you're runnig power to the mobo?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Sad day man, are the EVGA GTX 470's registered to the site before the month to register warranty RMA expired?
> I didn't do that for both of my EVGA GTX 465's, one died a few months ago, but it was time to upgrade anyway since the GTX 580 is over a year old now.


I bought them here, I'm hoping the member has this one registered. If not I can try a few things to try to get it working.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> Are my eyes playing tricks on me or is your cpu block not mounted and you're runnig power to the mobo?


Yeah he does.


----------



## wermad

She lives! I'm the stock cooler and its running fine. I'm suspecting something on the block is shorting the pcb. I did see a lot of the pads broken into bits (bought the card with block from another ocn member). I'm running a few more benchmarks and I'll set up the block back on her.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> It leaked the first time (didn't crank a barb tight enough I guess), but it's up and running! Now I just need that 6950...


Oh man
There better be no CPU under that block.


----------



## wermad

Someone used the Enzotech amd to 775 adapter and were able to use the intel Rasa bracket with an am3+ board. He had to mod it a bit but it was nice to see a way to use the good looking intel bracket and avoid the fugly (lets be honest here, its the truth sadly) amd brackets.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> It leaked the first time (didn't crank a barb tight enough I guess), but it's up and running! Now I just need that 6950...


thanx for reminding me how much i hate 3/4" od FAT tubing. I thought i made a mistake letting them go but jesus... those tubing look fatter than what i remember. Love your rig by the way


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Hey guys, I could really use some recommendations on some good clear tubing to buy, as well as a website to buy from that will ship internationally (I live in New Zealand). Will be using Mayhem's dye in the loop so am hoping for something that doesn't tend to cloud up over time. Thanks in advance


----------



## MARK-20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Someone used the Enzotech amd to 775 adapter and were able to use the intel Rasa bracket with an am3+ board. He had to mod it a bit but it was nice to see a way to use the good looking intel bracket and avoid the fugly (lets be honest here, its the truth sadly) amd brackets.
> http://www.overclock.net/image/id/1412039/width/525/height/700


New I Had Seen That Done Before


----------



## jackofhearts495

I used the 775 mounting holes instead of the 1155. For some reason I couldn't get the 1155 holes to work... maybe I was being daft, but the 775 holes worked fine (even though it looks a little crooked). In the pics I posted, the block is very well mounted on the board over a CPU and tested thoroughly before powering up the hole rig









Thanks for the compliments!


----------



## Ceadderman

@tubing off barb question... nobody suggested hair dryer set on low? Should only take a minute give or take to warm up the tubing enough to pull it while the barb is still in place. Make sure to bleed first if you can or have a catch pan directly under the barb you intend to pull.









@werm...







Duuuuuuuude so sux for you. Not only is your system down, but wife will make you sleep on couch or have long list of Honey Dos' to take care of before she relinquishes the checkbook...









*Edit* Nevermind... 

~Ceadder


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One of the circuit breakers went (most likely from the heater I was running). Switched the breaker back on, powered on rig, cpu over heating error (@ 97°c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), pump doesn't power back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its probably dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to look for a replacement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, new case incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: She might still be alive!!!!! testing in progress...


Wait a minute didn't you have a surge protector or UPS?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One of the circuit breakers went (most likely from the heater I was running). Switched the breaker back on, powered on rig, cpu over heating error (@ 97°c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), pump doesn't power back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its probably dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to look for a replacement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, new case incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: She might still be alive!!!!! testing in progress...
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a minute didn't you have a surge protector or UPS?
Click to expand...

I hate to tell you this, but most so called surge protectors are junk and won't save jack unless there is a short.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Wait a minute didn't you have a surge protector or UPS?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @tubing off barb question... nobody suggested hair dryer set on low? Should only take a minute give or take to warm up the tubing enough to pull it while the barb is still in place. Make sure to bleed first if you can or have a catch pan directly under the barb you intend to pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @werm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Duuuuuuuude so sux for you. Not only is your system down, but wife will make you sleep on couch or have long list of Honey Dos' to take care of before she relinquishes the checkbook...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* Nevermind...
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I hate to tell you this, but most so called surge protectors are junk and won't save jack unless there is a short.


I found the issue, it was the card itself. Something was up since I would on random get bsod with error 116. I got the card back on the stock cooler and I noticed some of the pad was broken up on the vrms (bought the card mounted with the block from an ocn member). I was able to boot with the stock cooler and I noticed how high the stock voltage on this card was. Could explain the 116 error and the nasty side effect after the power was cut. I fixed the pads on the block and all three are running in concert again. I do have a surge protector but things can go boom even with a decent one. Glad I escaped this one. The wiring in my home is all jacked up. I'm hoping to get a better place if not our own place sometime soon.

In the mean time, I have a new case incoming. So it was a good opportunity to start removing a few things and start prepping for my new case


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I hate to tell you this, but most so called surge protectors are junk and won't save jack unless there is a short.


What about a UPS with voltage regulation?


----------



## Ceadderman

My PRIME surge protector does pretty good, I've had it for a couple years now and it's not failed me once. I know I need to get battery backups(same thing btw) but I never have the money so I'm hoping to make this last at least until I have the funds to get it done.









~Ceadder


----------



## sheepcut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*
> 
> Hey guys, I could really use some recommendations on some good clear tubing to buy, as well as a website to buy from that will ship internationally (I live in New Zealand). Will be using Mayhem's dye in the loop so am hoping for something that doesn't tend to cloud up over time. Thanks in advance


Performance pc's : www.performance-pcs.com have bought a crap load of stuff from them, namely the current loop I built but havent posted
Frozen cpu : www.frozencpu.com havent bought but they have lots of stock albeit bit more expensive
Jab-tech : www.jab-tech.com bought rasa kit from there, good prices and shipping
Sidewinders : www.sidewindercomputers.com also good, decent pricing and shipping, less stock

All above ship to nz









Theres also petras, and gammod in aussie but i dont know if they ship to nz. Can also try computerlounge thats nz store but pretty damn pricey :/

Hope this helps lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*
> 
> Hey guys, I could really use some recommendations on some good clear tubing to buy, as well as a website to buy from that will ship internationally (I live in New Zealand). Will be using Mayhem's dye in the loop so am hoping for something that doesn't tend to cloud up over time. Thanks in advance


Using Primochill PrimoFlex 12mmx19mm (1/2x3/4) and its not super clear since its thick. I'm using compression so changing tube size is out of the question. Something slightly smaller like 16mm for od may have a bit more clarity though a 10mmx12mm would be ideal but its a different id size.

Mayhems is holding up quite nicely in my build


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My PRIME surge protector does pretty good, I've had it for a couple years now and it's not failed me once. I know I need to get battery backups(same thing btw) but I never have the money so I'm hoping to make this last at least until I have the funds to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Most newer ones will work most of the time, the problem is people have a lot of old cheap ones from 10 years ago.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I hate to tell you this, but most so called surge protectors are junk and won't save jack unless there is a short.
> 
> 
> 
> What about a UPS with voltage regulation?
Click to expand...

Nothing is 100% but the battery backups that monitor for clipped voltage (most people call this dirty power) seem to be the best.


----------



## Boyboyd

Is a clipped voltage a brown-out? Or is that just what we call it here?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Most newer ones will work most of the time, the problem is people have a lot of old cheap ones from 10 years ago.
> Nothing is 100% but the battery backups that monitor for clipped voltage (most people call this dirty power) seem to be the best.


Why do some people call this dirty power? I wouldn't buy a UPS to run when power is out, just for the purpose of voltage regulation.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Is a clipped voltage a brown-out? Or is that just what we call it here?


It can happen when a brown out happens. Most times when voltage clips is when the power source is being pushed too hard. It's just like when you turn your radio up too high and it starts to distort.

Clipped voltage


Good Voltage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Most newer ones will work most of the time, the problem is people have a lot of old cheap ones from 10 years ago.
> Nothing is 100% but the battery backups that monitor for clipped voltage (most people call this dirty power) seem to be the best.
> 
> 
> 
> Why do some people call this dirty power? I wouldn't buy a UPS to run when power is out, just for the purpose of voltage regulation.
Click to expand...

Dirty power can be many things. All it really means is you don't have a nice clean stable power, that can be from clipping, noise, low/high or not a constant voltage, ect, ect. Most people will not have a problem with bad voltage, and most things made today have power supplies that can handle small stuff like when you turn on a microwave or a vacuum and the lights flicker for a second.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> It can happen when a brown out happens. Most times when voltage clips is when the power source is being pushed too hard. It's just like when you turn your radio up too high and it starts to distort.
> Clipped voltage
> 
> Good Voltage
> 
> Dirty power can be many things. All it really means is you don't have a nice clean stable power, that can be from clipping, noise, low/high or not a constant voltage, ect, ect. Most people will not have a problem with bad voltage, and most things made today have power supplies that can handle small stuff like when you turn on a microwave or a vacuum and the lights flicker for a second.


Interesting, thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah we got a switch in the Kitchen that puts noise on the line whenever it's turned off. We rarely run it cause it's over the sink. Praise be to whatever diety that it's not the switch above the stove.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tennobanzai

Here is my rig in it's current form. The watercooling is basically done. Might get a few more fittings later. Next step is cable management









I love that my current loop is only using about 2 feet of tubing


----------



## Kenetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> Here is my rig in it's current form. The watercooling is basically done. Might get a few more fittings later. Next step is cable management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love that my current loop is only using about 2 feet of tubing


Not sure if it's me being blind, but have you got a radiator in your loop? I can't see one


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenetic*
> 
> Not sure if it's me being blind, but have you got a radiator in your loop? I can't see one


Its probably on the other side of his M8.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Its probably on the other side of his M8.


Yes, I have the XSPC EX360 on the other side


----------



## Kenetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Its probably on the other side of his M8.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I have the XSPC EX360 on the other side
Click to expand...

Ah nice one just the picture looks like it drops straight into the pump then up into the CPU. Nice one though very tidy looks great


----------



## jarble

thought I would update my setup its not very clean like a lot of builds on here but it cools like nobody's business


----------



## Kenetic

Nice radiator


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sheepcut*
> 
> Performance pc's : www.performance-pcs.com have bought a crap load of stuff from them, namely the current loop I built but havent posted
> Frozen cpu : www.frozencpu.com havent bought but they have lots of stock albeit bit more expensive
> Jab-tech : www.jab-tech.com bought rasa kit from there, good prices and shipping
> Sidewinders : www.sidewindercomputers.com also good, decent pricing and shipping, less stock
> All above ship to nz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theres also petras, and gammod in aussie but i dont know if they ship to nz. Can also try computerlounge thats nz store but pretty damn pricey :/
> Hope this helps lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Using Primochill PrimoFlex 12mmx19mm (1/2x3/4) and its not super clear since its thick. I'm using compression so changing tube size is out of the question. Something slightly smaller like 16mm for od may have a bit more clarity though a 10mmx12mm would be ideal but its a different id size.
> Mayhems is holding up quite nicely in my build


Thanks very much guys! I've just ordered clear Primochill PrimoFlex 3/8" ID 1/2" OD from Computerlounge since overall it worked out cheaper to buy from them (free shipping). Appreciate the help!!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenetic*
> 
> Nice radiator


thanks its kinda pricey up front but in the end very worth it


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> thanx for reminding me how much i hate 3/4" od FAT tubing.


3/8ID 5/8OD FTW.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*
> 
> Hey guys, I could really use some recommendations on some good clear tubing to buy, as well as a website to buy from that will ship internationally (I live in New Zealand). Will be using Mayhem's dye in the loop so am hoping for something that doesn't tend to cloud up over time. Thanks in advance


Stick w/ Primoflex LRT. It isn't perfect but it is the best that I've tried so far. It still will cloud up over time but it takes considerably longer than Tygon. Pretty sure Performance PC's ships worldwide.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> thanks its kinda pricey up front but in the end very worth it


Lol looks like it'll definitely do the job, but how do you live in that?


----------



## wermad

I just noticed my flow coming through my reservoir inlet and its steady but I didn't realize how restrictive my loop seems to be. I'm using a couple of Swiftech rads and I've heard they are very restrictive. I'm wondering if I'll dual loops would be ideal (a mcp 350 for the cpu loop only). Can't wait for my new case to come in, should be plenty of room for dual loops


----------



## num1son

Decided to try out some Mayhem's UV Green. Thanks for tempting me wermad.



















Still need to get some UV lights though.
More pics in log.


----------



## lowfat

What are you using for UV lighting?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Decided to try out some Mayhem's UV Green. Thanks for tempting me wermad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to get some UV lights though.
> More pics in log.










I love mine, I wish my tube was a bit better. I was going to pick up some Tygon but I hear that clouds pretty quick.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love mine, I wish my tube was a bit better. I was going to pick up some Tygon but I hear that clouds pretty quick.


Oh I hadn't even thought of that for how the dye would look. I have Primochill in mine. I really like that stuff. Very easy to work with and looks good every time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What are you using for UV lighting?


Nothing yet.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

About to get some of that stuff too







Looks really good!


----------



## Ceadderman

Too bad I don't trust dyes. That actually looks pretty nice. But I've already bought my PrimoChill White tubing so se la vie.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Too bad I don't trust dyes. That actually looks pretty nice. But I've already bought my PrimoChill White tubing so se la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


how about your res?


----------



## saber101

i want a cool looking water cooling pc, but the thing is i dont know how to get set one up


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saber101*
> 
> i want a cool looking water cooling pc, but the thing is i dont know how to get set one up


Get a Rasa kit. Good way to start off. You can through in your gpu anytime into the mix. Only thing that you want to consider is rad size, which is really down to how you want to mount it in your case. I would recommend external if you are sticking with the TT case.


----------



## saber101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Get a Rasa kit. Good way to start off. You can through in your gpu anytime into the mix. Only thing that you want to consider is rad size, which is really down to how you want to mount it in your case. I would recommend external if you are sticking with the TT case.


lol i never new they made kits for watercooling like this one







, but i'm guessing this will be good enough for just the cpu.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saber101*
> 
> lol i never new they made kits for watercooling like this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but i'm guessing this will be good enough for just the cpu.


You might be able to get away with adding the gpu. Only thing I would change is the fans to better ones to cope with the added gpu. Other than that, its a good starter kit. Make sure you have plenty of clearance if you plan to mount it on top of your case (might not be possible







)


----------



## bundymania

Koolance Day


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Koolance Day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snipz0r*


You already know...


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saber101*
> 
> lol i never new they made kits for watercooling like this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but i'm guessing this will be good enough for just the cpu.


I started off with one of those kits, now I have two rads, two gpus and my cpu, along with a bitspower 250ml res








Be careful, your wallet will get lighter with watercooling...


----------



## bundymania

New board and ram cooler arrived...


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New board and ram cooler arrived...


That's some really low profile RAM you got in there!


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New board and ram cooler arrived...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Where you bought that RAM cooler?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Where you bought that RAM cooler?


It's MIPS.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Too bad I don't trust dyes. That actually looks pretty nice. But I've already bought my PrimoChill White tubing so se la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how about your res?
Click to expand...

Well as you know, I'm going with the EK dual ddc top.









So I'll be getting the dual option adapter to fit the multioption to, since my Fillport/Res needs a location to fill to I plan on using a 90 in one port and a LED cap in the other. No it's not the same effect but I think it should tie in well.









@Bundy... I thought I was gonna have to change my drawers but then that CPU block snapped me out of that. The MIPS block looks as good as I envisioned it though. Just that white on that board. Meh not so much.









Still very nice though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Where you bought that RAM cooler?


I believe bundymania is a reviewer so he just gets sent items straight from the manufacturer or distributor. I am very envious.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Koolance Day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip


Bundy, you take some nice pics








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r*
> 
> I started off with one of those kits, now I have two rads, two gpus and my cpu, along with a bitspower 250ml res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful, your wallet will get lighter with watercooling...


So true mate, its a sad fact: watercooling does cause severe wallet weight loss. Wish this would work on my physique too








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well as you know, I'm going with the EK dual ddc top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'll be getting the dual option adapter to fit the multioption to, since my Fillport/Res needs a location to fill to I plan on using a 90 in one port and a LED cap in the other. No it's not the same effect but I think it should tie in well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Bundy... I thought I was gonna have to change my drawers but then that CPU block snapped me out of that. The MIPS block looks as good as I envisioned it though. Just that white on that board. Meh not so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still very nice though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm going with dual loops since my ddc maybe struggling through this loop and the restrictive (







) rads. My new case should have plenty of room, though I wanted a second tube res, money is tight again so I'm going with some less expensive. Can't wait for ti to arrive. Fedex says it should arrive this week, in time for a xmas present for moi








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> I believe bundymania is a reviewer so he just gets sent items straight from the manufacturer or distributor. I am very envious.


Yes, and several of us are super jelli of his job


----------



## asakurahao

I redid my loop today, hope you guys like it


----------



## nickbaldwin86

looks clean... nice work


----------



## Systemlord

Very nice and clean looking, I like how you used a clear tube coming from the chipset water block instead of tubing!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Very nice and clean looking, I like how *you used a clear tube coming from the chipset water block instead of tubing*!












Isn't it the same tubing? Sure looks like it, or is that BitsPower SLi tube?









Oh and I believe GPU flows to Chipset not other way round.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't it the same tubing? Sure looks like it, or is that BitsPower SLi tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Looks like the bitspower male to female extended piece.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

looks like two comps and a short piece of tube to me.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm going with dual loops since my ddc maybe struggling through this loop and the restrictive (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) rads. My new case should have plenty of room, though I wanted a second tube res, money is tight again so I'm going with some less expensive. Can't wait for ti to arrive. Fedex says it should arrive this week, in time for a xmas present for moi


What's your new case, did you go for an M8? The DDC shouldn't be having any problem with your loop- you might try back flushing your rads at some point to see if they're gunking up with dye...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> What's your new case, did you go for an M8? The DDC shouldn't be having any problem with your loop- you might try back flushing your rads at some point to see if they're gunking up with dye...


Got an XSPC H2 at a great price. My inlet flow is very slow and after a close call, I don't want to risk killing my pump. I'm looking to get an xspc x20 750 just for cpu loop & the mcr320.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Koolance Day


Hmmm looks familiar...



Coming soon to a build log near you... my SLI upgrade and loop redesign


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> 
> looks like two comps and a short piece of tube to me.


Thanks. I was starting to think I needed glasses. 42 and still have good enough vision to notice the little things. Of course my attention span is that of a gnat so you can imagine how I could miss some things.









~Ceadder


----------



## asakurahao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> looks like two comps and a short piece of tube to me.


Here is your correct answer. It's just a short tube


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Hmmm looks familiar...
> 
> Coming soon to a build log near you... my SLI upgrade and loop redesign


That picture just looks amazing!


----------



## bundymania

After releasing my banchetto review...i´m testing again









Phobya Xtreme 400 - Performance = better than a 480 Quadrad


----------



## wermad

^^^What fans did you use? No surprise tbh since the 400mmx200mm rad has more area than the 480mmx120mm.


----------



## grimreaper01

*@In*





Rig part 1

Rig part 2


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimreaper01*
> 
> *@In*
> 
> 
> Rig part 1
> Rig part 2


Very nice build. That's the first watercooled Striker/Blackhawk hptx I've seen. Its a monster case


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^What fans did you use? No surprise tbh since the 400mmx200mm rad has more area than the 480mmx120mm.


True







Those are Phobya fans


----------



## grimreaper01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice build. That's the first watercooled Striker/Blackhawk hptx I've seen. Its a monster case


Actually, I have a friend who has one as well, @brontolith

Yep, I wanted to try something different. I'm not sure where to get a fan that will fit on the left grill (Money Side) of the case.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimreaper01*
> 
> *@In*
> 
> 
> Rig part 1
> Rig part 2


you must post the pictures in this thread for me to add you.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimreaper01*
> 
> Yep, I wanted to try something different. I'm not sure where to get a fan that will fit on the left grill (Money Side) of the case.


Aerocool says that the left panel/door fits nine (wow) 120s, but if you look closely in the middle seems like it can accommodate a 140mm fan.


----------



## grimreaper01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> you must post the pictures in this thread for me to add you.


Here is a pic...


----------



## grimreaper01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Aerocool says that the left panel/door fits nine (wow) 120s, but if you look closely in the middle seems like it can accommodate a 140mm fan.


Nah, the money side cannot fit a 140mm. *Tried*. It looks like its around 200-240mm.

@Brontolith tried doing that. I ended losing there 200mm fan at the top cos my rad sits there. I cannot place it anywhere now. Such a waste.


----------



## Sokvichet

Lots of firsts in this post. My first rig ever, much less liquid cooled. My first post here at Overclock.net. And my daughter took her first steps on the build day!

I spent about 3 months here at Overclock.net learning before I started accumulating parts. This was completed months ago, but I've not had time to document it.

My wife named this computer when she first saw it complete by saying "Wow, that thing is a Beast!". Meet Beast:





*CORE SYSTEM*
*MB*: ASUS Maximus Extreme-Z ROG
*CPU*: Intel Core i7 2600K
*GPU*: 2x ATi GeForce GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2, FTW edition in SLI
*RAM*: 16GB Corsair Vengeance (red and black for vanity)
*Case*: Corsair Obsidian 800D
*PSU*: Antec HCP-1200 1200w
*BD Burner*: 2x LG WH12LS30
*Fan Controller*: Lamptron FC-5v2 (for red LED panel)
*Storage*: 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 SSD
*Storage*: 2TB WD Caviar Black
*Storage*: 4 Hotswap bays, yet to be filled. should have purchased before Thailand flooded...

*LIQUID COOLING*
*Reservoir*: Custom Liquid Fusion T-Virus 250mm, white cathode
*CPU Water Block*: Koolance CPU-370
*Radiators*: 360mm BlackIce GTX360, 120mm BlackIce GTX120
*Pump*: Swiftech MCP35X 12v VDC
*Thermal Compound*: Indigo Extreme Thermal Interface (bonds PERFECTLY to cooling block and CPU)
*Fans*: San Ace 9G - HUGE static pressure needed for high fin density rads
*More Fans*: Yate Loon 120mm Red LED on intake for vanity
*Fittings*: Bitspower 1/2in ID Matte Black compression fittings, extenders, and angles
*Fittings*: Bitspower 1in D-plugs for parallel GPU flow
*Tubing*: Masterkleer 1/2in ID


----------



## Boyboyd

Oh man, that T virus res looks really, really good.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Would look better with a softer light and bleed the bubbles from it.

System look very nice nonetheless

FTWPC sleeving? looks like the same stuff I used for my last black and red build, nicely done.


----------



## Sokvichet

I've had a hell of a time trying to get the bubbles out of it. I left the top off for a week and topped off often... Tipping and tilting the system doesn't help at all. Not to mention the system weighs over 90 pounds.

I nearly lost the entire system to a power outage and an underpowered UPS while I had the top off the res. I heard the boom of a transformer outside and the beep of my UPS. I sprinted into the office and got there just in time to cap it as the power ran out. All the water in the top rad would have made its way out had I not been quick enough. I've since purchased a 1K watt UPS that'll run quite a long while on idle.

Yes, FTWPC sleeving. I did have some trouble with two of the 8-pin sleeves that they would not resolve. The heat wrap was not tight - the sleeving slid out with no force. But the low pricing allowed me to purchase another set that was perfect. Not happy at all about the first set, but I would buy from them again in hopes that it was a rare occurrence.

*Boyboyd* - Thanks - I love it. Alex at FrozenQ machined some extra ports upon request so I could have more options on build day. That side port is perfect.


----------



## Boyboyd

I'd keep the bubbles, i like them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^What fans did you use? No surprise tbh since the 400mmx200mm rad *has more area* than the 480mmx120mm.










looking at just the sq. mm formula I think that is a mathematical improbability. I think the reason it cools better is the width of the fan allows better flow and has less dead space behind the hub. Couple that with the lower RPM of the larger fans and it should be a monster for cooling.









Sorry my OCD saw the bolded and had to chime in.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^What fans did you use? No surprise tbh since the 400mmx200mm rad *has more area* than the 480mmx120mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking at just the sq. mm formula I think that is a mathematical improbability. I think the reason it cools better is the width of the fan allows better flow and has less dead space behind the hub. Couple that with the lower RPM of the larger fans and it should be a monster for cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry my OCD saw the bolded and had to chime in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just did the math and they both have the exact same amount of area. 1200mm sq. Errr make that 300sq mm not 1200. 1200 would be huge. Overall length would be 4800 and that would be MAMMOTH.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

@sokvichet...







That res looks like a giant candy cane.
















I swear I did not quote myself. Found another bug in the system I think.









~Ceadder


----------



## Farmer Boe




----------



## Ceadderman

Hey man I know that you probably consider yourself a lady magnet but this ain't a dating site. Could you please take your picture down?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking at just the sq. mm formula I think that is a mathematical improbability. I think the reason it cools better is the width of the fan allows better flow and has less dead space behind the hub. Couple that with the lower RPM of the larger fans and it should be a monster for cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry my OCD saw the bolded and had to chime in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Calculator says 80k mm^2 vs 57.6k mm^2. Generally, 120mm fans have been regarded as better in terms of performance. I'm think comparing it to a 560mmx140mm would be much more ideal or better yet a 360mmx360mm rad.

This is like comparing a 360mmx120mm rad vs a 240mmx120mm rad since the 360 has more area and can dissipate more heat when the thermal loads are high.

Maybe Bundy can give us some figures (or has he







).


----------



## Los Hog

Lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Ceddar, I am not sure what math you were using, but:

400x200=80000>57600=480x120

thus, 400x200mm has more area than 480x120


----------



## HAFenvy

More fan area does not necessarily mean better cooling performance. Radiator fin density and the total square footage of cooling surface of the radiator is going to determine the first part of the equation. Add in static pressure capabilities of the fans and how much they can actually push through the radiator and the math becomes a lot more complex than simply looking at the square mm of the fans alone.

Here is a nice chart to illustrate my point from this article... AnandTech Corsair H60 vs H80 vs H100



The H100 is a double radiator and the H80 a single and yet the H80 keeps up with fairly decent performance by comparison. It is because the H80 is thicker and has a lot of cooling surface that allows it to perform as well as it does. Bigger does not always mean better and judging by fan area alone doesn't quite work


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> Ceddar, I am not sure what math you were using, but:
> 
> 400x200=80000>57600=480x120
> 
> thus, 400x200mm has more area than 480x120


Using (400*2)+(200*2)/4 = (480*2)+(120*2)/4 even if I were to throw out 4 both Rads look to have the same surface area though the 400 has a larger surface area in width than the 480.







I'm not sure that formula is incorrect. I see the math you did would suggest it is so but the math I did which is just as algebra says it is not.









~Ceadder


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Using (400*2)+(200*2)/4 = (480*2)+(120*2)/4 even if I were to throw out 4 both Rads look to have the same surface area though the 400 has a larger surface area in width than the 480.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure that formula is incorrect. I see the math you did would suggest it is so but the math I did which is just as algebra says it is not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


http://www.mathsteacher.com.au/year7/ch13_area/03_rect/rect.htm


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Using (400*2)+(200*2)/4 = (480*2)+(120*2)/4 even if I were to throw out 4 both Rads look to have the same surface area though the 400 has a larger surface area in width than the 480.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure that formula is incorrect. I see the math you did would suggest it is so but the math I did which is just as algebra says it is not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mathsteacher.com.au/year7/ch13_area/03_rect/rect.htm
Click to expand...









I'm just gonna say...

Condescend much?









...and leave it at that.

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Ocn is about overkill people. Let's leave it at that









Almost shed a tear as I broke down my 800D rig. I have a few local people interested in picking her up. FedEx delivers my H2 "Hive" tomorrow


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ocn is about overkill people. Let's leave it at that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost shed a tear as I broke down my 800D rig. I have a few local people interested in picking her up. FedEx delivers my H2 "Hive" tomorrow


Who makes it bro? I haveta say that I haven't been looking at cases too much lately so I can't recall seeing it. Even though I do take a couple trades rags that show off cases.
















H2 makes it but who is H2 I guess is what I'm asking.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Who makes it bro? I haveta say that I haven't been looking at cases too much lately so I can't recall seeing it. Even though I do take a couple trades rags that show off cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H2 makes it but who is H2 I guess is what I'm asking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


XSPC H2 "Hive"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Who makes it bro? I haveta say that I haven't been looking at cases too much lately so I can't recall seeing it. Even though I do take a couple trades rags that show off cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H2 makes it but who is H2 I guess is what I'm asking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC H2 "Hive"
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
Click to expand...

Wow that's pretty sharp. Is that Aluminum or Steel? I like that it's set up for a 480 Radiator. That thing must be HUGE.









Nvm, I found it. For that kind of money I'd like to see them offer it set up for a 560. There is obviously plenty of room down below and up top. I expect a little more for 5 bills, but that's just me.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow that's pretty sharp. Is that Aluminum or Steel? I like that it's set up for a 480 Radiator. That thing must be HUGE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nvm, I found it. For that kind of money I'd like to see them offer it set up for a 560. There is obviously plenty of room down below and up top. I expect a little more for 5 bills, but that's just me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Got if for $230 shipped







, a few months old. Downside, not many accessories and no bay covers. Luckily, I have a ton of spares from my 800D and some acrylic sheet that I can fashion the covers with. Its very reminiscent of the LD V8 but a little bit milder and inverted tray. I believe the finish is anodized brushed aluminum. Patiently waiting for the FedEx guy to show and hoping this one will not throw my package like this other guy:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhmjJCBQ-cA


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow that's pretty sharp. Is that Aluminum or Steel? I like that it's set up for a 480 Radiator. That thing must be HUGE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nvm, I found it. For that kind of money I'd like to see them offer it set up for a 560. There is obviously plenty of room down below and up top. I expect a little more for 5 bills, but that's just me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got if for $230 shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , a few months old. Downside, not many accessories and no bay covers. Luckily, I have a ton of spares from my 800D and some acrylic sheet that I can fashion the covers with. Its very reminiscent of the LD V8 but a little bit milder and inverted tray. I believe the finish is anodized brushed aluminum. Patiently waiting for the FedEx guy to show and hoping this one will not throw my package like this other guy:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhmjJCBQ-cA
Click to expand...

Yeah you know that guy doesn't value his job. Just the fact that he takes a fragile monitor and tosses it over the fence is just insane. I remember seeing this before and was like







I wonder if that guy threw stuff up stairs like a Paper Carrier.









I've had FedEx leave a $1200 notebook on my porch, didn't knock and leave it. I lived in a sketchy neighborhood at the time the Box said HP on it and they just leave it there w/o knocking. Couldn't bother to fill out a "While you were out" form and leave that instead. Only reason I knew they didn't knock was cause I was in the study area which is probably 15feet from the door and thought I'd heard a noise. So I go to the door just in time to see the van drive off. FedEx also dropped the box that my first HDD for this system, came in. People have issues with UPS? I have issues with FedEx.









Can't wait to see what you do with your new case. For a new one though I do expect a bit more for that kind of money. Especially when it doesn't come with Read/Write lights and USBs.









~Ceadder


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got an XSPC H2 at a great price. My inlet flow is very slow and after a close call, I don't want to risk killing my pump. I'm looking to get an xspc x20 750 just for cpu loop & the mcr320.


Surprised you went for the H2, I thought the quality was supposed to be a bit questionable (?). Glad you got it at a discount though, otherwise it's an expensive one haha. What made you decide to give up the 800D?


----------



## CjGemini

There's a massive story behind this powder job, I need my Eagle Eye people to give me there honest opinions before I tell story please.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah you know that guy doesn't value his job. Just the fact that he takes a fragile monitor and tosses it over the fence is just insane. I remember seeing this before and was like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if that guy threw stuff up stairs like a Paper Carrier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had FedEx leave a $1200 notebook on my porch, didn't knock and leave it. I lived in a sketchy neighborhood at the time the Box said HP on it and they just leave it there w/o knocking. Couldn't bother to fill out a "While you were out" form and leave that instead. Only reason I knew they didn't knock was cause I was in the study area which is probably 15feet from the door and thought I'd heard a noise. So I go to the door just in time to see the van drive off. FedEx also dropped the box that my first HDD for this system, came in. People have issues with UPS? I have issues with FedEx.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see what you do with your new case. For a new one though I do expect a bit more for that kind of money. Especially when it doesn't come with Read/Write lights and USBs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


FedEx and UPS have played a major sport with my packages before







.

Its a custom case like MM, CL, LD, etc. So that means there's very little fine detail to it and its expensive. Though very light. The package is ~20 lbs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Surprised you went for the H2, I thought the quality was supposed to be a bit questionable (?). Glad you got it at a discount though, otherwise it's an expensive one haha. What made you decide to give up the 800D?


Its probably around the same level as my old MM Ext. Ascension in terms of material. Though, most people say the aluminum and finish seem pretty good, at this price I would think so too. I had wanted a Xigmatek Elysium, but when i stumbled on this one for half the price I jumped on it. It should have no issue swallowing a couple of thick 480mm rads and fitting more water gear. I love my 800D, but I feel that I have taken it as far as I wanted to. Time for a new canvas


----------



## Los Hog

Alright wermad one more person with a XSPC case


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Alright wermad one more person with a XSPC case


Not too many people with this case. I seen a few of them at other sites but not really prevalent which is expected with these "custom" cases. There was a thread that I replied too of a few ocn'ers; one has an H2 while I think I saw a couple H1 "cubes".

I know Martin has one sponsored by XSPC.


----------



## Tweak17emon

How many waterblocks is too many? im at 7.
(more pictures in my build log, link in my sig)


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> FedEx and UPS have played a major sport with my packages before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Its a custom case like MM, CL, LD, etc. So that means there's very little fine detail to it and its expensive. Though very light. The package is ~20 lbs.
> Its probably around the same level as my old MM Ext. Ascension in terms of material. Though, most people say the aluminum and finish seem pretty good, at this price I would think so too. I had wanted a Xigmatek Elysium, but when i stumbled on this one for half the price I jumped on it. It should have no issue swallowing a couple of thick 480mm rads and fitting more water gear. I love my 800D, but I feel that I have taken it as far as I wanted to. Time for a new canvas


I'm getting itchy for another project too







I'm thinking a small mITX build under water or something like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> There's a massive story behind this powder job, I need my Eagle Eye people to give me there honest opinions before I tell story please.


Cj, can't wait to see the pics from this build! I've been following this project from CD's thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

From the 30 seconds that loaded up it looks pretty nice cj. Only wish YouTube was loading properly. For whatever reason now YouTube has been loading like a dog in HD. On a 22" monitor I like FullScreen. And it's run just fine in HD in the past. Love that white though.









~Ceadder


----------



## compmaster

Not nearly as beautiful as some of ya'lls cases but it's functional!
Hard to cram so much guts in a mid-tower, but it all fits I swear!
Here's some pics with its guts out.




I can haz join?


----------



## wermad

I'm going to ditch the cheap casters and get some nice case feet. Looks to be in great condition. The bottom panel seems a bit warped but I can fix that since its aluminum. Once I add the components back in it should weigh it down a bit. Compared to my 800D, this is a feather


----------



## CjGemini

DAMN THAT'S A HUGE CASE, what will you be putting in it that wasn't in you 800D?


----------



## cyronn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compmaster*
> 
> Not nearly as beautiful as some of ya'lls cases but it's functional!
> Hard to cram so much guts in a mid-tower, but it all fits I swear!
> Here's some pics with its guts out.
> 
> 
> I can haz join?


wooh cables dude, might be worth trying to do some cable management!


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm going to ditch the cheap casters and get some nice case feet. Looks to be in great condition. The bottom panel seems a bit warped but I can fix that since its aluminum. Once I add the components back in it should weigh it down a bit. Compared to my 800D, this is a feather
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snip


How do you like that xspc case? I've only recently just seen it but I quite like it - I am a big fan of the pre drilled holes for a quad rad.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyronn*
> 
> wooh cables dude, might be worth trying to do some cable management!


...And tubing management.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> DAMN THAT'S A HUGE CASE, what will you be putting in it that wasn't in you 800D?


Just my current stuff, maybe down the road some more stuff. Its very light since its made out of aluminum.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> How do you like that xspc case? I've only recently just seen it but I quite like it - I am a big fan of the pre drilled holes for a quad rad.


I just got it today. Its preowned so there are little niggles here and there but that's expected from something used tbh. I didn't get a chance to install anything yet but first impressions on the design of the case or a bit mixed. I don't like the casters and I wanted to remove them (until I can get some nice case feet) but I couldn't since it came with the optional rad brackets (its missing the hdd cage, I asked for the invoice and maybe xspc support can send one). I tried installing the mb i/o shield and it doesn't fit (I'm going to test it on my 800D again to ensure its not the shield itself). So these little quirks or "little design flaws" are expected in custom cases since I owned a Mountain Mods before. The finish is beautiful, which is a brushed and anodized all aluminum. Hopefully I can get the hdd cage from xspc support. Mountain Mods sells an anodized drive cage cover with a 120mm fan mounting option. Its a bit pricey but it costs less than getting a 115mm/4.5" hole saw (and I'll be using it once). I love the hugeness of it and it looks like it was just designed to go water. Hopefully my 800D sells soon. If any one is interested, click the links (local only SD, California).


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compmaster*


I'm trying to sort out the flow on this and all I can do is









The number of Y connectors and loops going on makes me wonder if you might have some flow rate issues to some components or not. How are your temperatures on your different components?


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compmaster*
> 
> Not nearly as beautiful as some of ya'lls cases but it's functional!
> Hard to cram so much guts in a mid-tower, but it all fits I swear!
> Here's some pics with its guts out.
> 
> 
> I can haz join?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> I'm trying to sort out the flow on this and all I can do is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The number of Y connectors and loops going on makes me wonder if you might have some flow rate issues to some components or not. How are your temperatures on your different components?


lol, that was also my face. I think I've figured it out. He has CPU and 3 GPUs in parallel.

Res > Pump > Y1 > Y2 > res

Y1 Split1 = 9800gt > GTX 470 > GTX 460 > Y2
Y1 Split2 = CPU > Y2

Y2 = Rad & drain(Y3)


----------



## compmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyronn*
> 
> wooh cables dude, might be worth trying to do some cable management!


Man, I have no doubt about that








They were neat at one point but it got to a place where the mid-case is so small, everything is so close, and I needed so many cables I just gave up on this one.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> I'm trying to sort out the flow on this and all I can do is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The number of Y connectors and loops going on makes me wonder if you might have some flow rate issues to some components or not. How are your temperatures on your different components?


Oh, I probably do. This one could do with another pump but I didn't want to put anything more than the radiator external. I admit the design got away from me a little; This particular system is college-budget and EOL. My new machine will be much prettier, better, and expensive!
Right now, with both GTX 470's and 3 cores on the processor folding for 24+ hours I'm getting the following temperatures:

GPU 1 (GTX 470): 73C
GPU 2 (GTX 470): 71C
GPU 3 (9600GT): 38C
CPU1: 70C
CPU2: 69C
CPU3: 71C
CPU4: 75C

It meets my purposes though, namely: eliminates the horribly noisy GPU fans on these particular cards and confuses the hell out of you guys


----------



## Angrybutcher

^ with those GPU temperatures, you are likely getting no or very little flow to the GPUs. That said, it's still a tad cooler than a stock GPU fan running full speed lol


----------



## boostinsteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compmaster*
> 
> Not nearly as beautiful as some of ya'lls cases but it's functional!
> Hard to cram so much guts in a mid-tower, but it all fits I swear!
> Here's some pics with its guts out.
> 
> 
> I can haz join?


----------



## compmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> ^ with those GPU temperatures, you are likely getting no or very little flow to the GPUs. That said, it's still a tad cooler than a stock GPU fan running full speed lol


Which works for me


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compmaster*
> 
> Not nearly as beautiful as some of ya'lls cases but it's functional!
> Hard to cram so much guts in a mid-tower, but it all fits I swear!
> Here's some pics with its guts out.
> 
> 
> I can haz join?


That looks like an octopus in there.


----------



## compmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> lol, that was also my face. I think I've figured it out. He has CPU and 3 GPUs in parallel.
> Res > Pump > Y1 > Y2 > res
> Y1 Split1 = 9800gt > GTX 470 > GTX 470 > Y2
> Y1 Split2 = CPU > Y2
> Y2 = Rad & drain(Y3)


Yep, here's a picture:

Resivoir ---pump --->\
^.............................\____ CPU____________>\
|...............................\..................................\
|.................................\GPU1 -- GPU2 --- GPU3_>\
|.......................................................................\
| ..................................................................radiator
|.....................................................................|
|.....................................................................|fillport
____________________________________________V


----------



## wermad

CompMaster, sorry dude, your loop is confusing as heck. I'm sure that there's been plenty of advise given to simplify and possibly improve your loops performance. Also, the lone 360 for your loop may not be enough for your loops. I would recommend through in a 240 to help with the temps. My three cards load ~50c at stock clocks.

I'm going to run dual loops and the fermis will have the MCR420 to cool them (I'm hoping to get something different and beefier though). I'll report back if there was any change from my prior one-loop setup.


----------



## compmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> CompMaster, sorry dude, your loop is confusing as heck. I'm sure that there's been plenty of advise given to simplify and possibly improve your loops performance. Also, the lone 360 for your loop may not be enough for your loops. I would recommend through in a 240 to help with the temps. My three cards load ~50c at stock clocks.
> I'm going to run dual loops and the fermis will have the MCR420 to cool them (I'm hoping to get something different and beefier though). I'll report back if there was any change from my prior one-loop setup.


Thanks man. All feedback goes to my next build, heck if I'm taking this one apart again being EOL. It might not fit back together


----------



## ramkatral

Well, on the new loop, I decided to stick with the rasa 750 pump/res as it will work great for my set up. Went with the swiftech apogee HD CPU block, EK 6970 v2 full cover gpu block, keeping my rs240 rad and added another EX240. And of course some bits power fittings and primochill black 1/2 hose. Thanks frozencpu!


----------



## -javier-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compmaster*
> 
> Not nearly as beautiful as some of ya'lls cases but it's functional!
> Hard to cram so much guts in a mid-tower, but it all fits I swear!
> Here's some pics with its guts out.
> 
> 
> I can haz join?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compmaster*


kinda reminds me of my first water cooling build I give you props on trying to work with the 900







in the end I like the table much better popping a card out takes seconds instead of hrs


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> ...And tubing management.




As far as I can tell he only has 3 water blocks there is no way it should look like that.


----------



## compmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> As far as I can tell he only has 3 water blocks there is no way it should look like that.


There's a fourth waterblock on the 9600GT sandwiched in between the GTX 470s, that one took a little tubing acrobatics.
If I did cpu -> gpu1 -> gpu2 -> gpu3 there would be alot less hoses, but that's not the way I wanted to do it


----------



## wermad

Some progress


----------



## skaboy607

Looking very nice! There is still so much room in there!


----------



## tiborrr12

Rig for my cousin. Some of my old stuff with some new. Got this Chieftec for free, graphics card for 30€, decided to dremel the bottom and install 280 RAD. Should be quite an improvement over the old A64 2800+:

Athlon II X3 435 C3 @ 4GHz
ASUS M4A78T-E
4x1GB Micron D9JNL
Gigabyte GeForce GTS 450 @ 1000/1000MHz
Corsair CX430
Chieftec case
Watercooling: EK Supreme HF, EK-VGA Supreme HF, EK-RAD CoolStream XTC 280, 2x140 fan, EK-DCP 2.2
4 hrs of work

P.S.: This old mobo pushed my X4 955 to 6.75GHz


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Rig for my cousin. Some of my old stuff with some new. Got this Chieftec for free, graphics card for 30€, decided to dremel the bottom and install 280 RAD. Should be quite an improvement over the old A64 2800+:
> Athlon II X3 435 C3 @ 4GHz
> ASUS M4A78T-E
> 4x1GB Micron D9JNL
> Gigabyte GeForce GTS 450 @ 1000/1000MHz
> Corsair CX430
> Chieftec case
> Watercooling: EK Supreme HF, EK-VGA Supreme HF, EK-RAD CoolStream XTC 280, 2x140 fan, EK-DCP 2.2
> 4 hrs of work
> P.S.: This old mobo pushed my X4 955 to 6.75GHz


The build looks awesome! Very interested what was the total price?


----------



## Extreme Newbie

I needed something to do so I decided to switch out my blue tubing / fans with white and replace my micro-res with a new EK res. Now I just have to spend a few hours on sleeving and cable management:


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> P.S.: This old mobo pushed my X4 955 to 6.75GHz


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> The build looks awesome! Very interested what was the total price?


CPU: 30€ via ebay.es
RAM: my old D9JNL sticks, now probably worth 15-20€
MB: old, probably worth 20-30€
VGA: new, 30€
PSU: brand new, 45€
chassis: free
wheels: 4€
fans: free
rad: 50€
waterblocks: 80€
fittings: 28€
tubing: 4€
coolant: 6€
pump-res combo: 2nd hand, 20€
---
total: ~ 340€

EDIT: added pump to total price

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*


No problem:
http://hwbot.org/submission/942332_tiborrr_cpu_frequency_phenom_ii_x4_955_be_6758.23_mhz


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some progress


Hey Wermad, nice build...again









Do you have a thread for your build, always like to follow up your progress?


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> CPU: 30€ via ebay.es
> RAM: my old D9JNL sticks, now probably worth 15-20€
> MB: old, probably worth 20-30€
> VGA: new, 30€
> PSU: brand new, 45€
> chassis: free
> wheels: 4€
> fans: free
> rad: 50€
> waterblocks: 80€
> fittings: 28€
> tubing: 4€
> coolant: 6€
> ---
> total: ~ 320€
> No problem:
> http://hwbot.org/submission/942332_tiborrr_cpu_frequency_phenom_ii_x4_955_be_6758.23_mhz


6758.23 mhz with Phenom II X4 955 BE at 6758.2MHz

Dear Santa............... Dear GOD!

BTW for for like 370$ you just can't beat it!


----------



## ramkatral

I like EK blocks, but I've just not seen very many complementing reviews on their rads when compared to other highly rated rads just as XSPC or Swiftech.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> The build looks awesome! Very interested what was the total price?


I have personally tested at least two competitor rads which - judging by reviews (some of them world renown) - claimed to outperform XTX let alone XT. Well, results I have obtained tell another story. I trust only the results I obtain myself, everything else is just a rough guideline, skewed to fit the desired effect due of today's aggressive market. Trust Skinnee or Martin, everything else should be taken with a grain or a kilo of salt.


----------



## KaRLiToS

This is my new build, I changed my two 5850 and 5870 for two 6970.
I had some fittings that were broken (90' and snake rotary). I had to modify my loop to be able to have enough fittings without ordering new ones, shiping is killing me, there is no snake rotary in Canada, especially black sparkle ones. (To check my old build, click here (better pictures))


----------



## jellis142

Kitten in fridge!!!!!!!









My two kitties like to flip the switch on my power strip when I'm at work.

That build is beautiful, lots of modification. I'm currently in the process of bringing my Spedo back to life.


----------



## Balsagna

Why do a lot of these setups look like there isn't even a spec of dust in the system. I freaking hate dust.... and it's everywhere in my 800D


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Why do a lot of these setups look like there isn't even a spec of dust in the system. I freaking hate dust.... and it's everywhere in my 800D


I wash my comp really fast every week or two (when I do the cleaning, I clean it like a furniture but I take the time to remove the door a wipe the interior fast.

every 2 months, I use an air compressor to wash every little place and all the radiators, my 800D is also full of dust filter where there are intakes and I have 4 dust filters on the intake of my external Quad Radiator.

And I bought it especially for cleaning purpose


----------



## GoodInk

I have one of these. I only use it for cleaning PC's. I picked it up for $25 on sale. It has more than enough power to blow out a PC.



http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=pO&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&q=armor+all+shop+vac&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1920&bih=913&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10654659920658835355&sa=X&ei=f8D0Ttu7OIPMtgfG0ZXRBg&ved=0CGsQ8wIwAA


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I have one of these. I only use it for cleaning PC's. I picked it up for $25 on sale. It has more than enough power to blow out a PC.
> 
> http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=pO&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&q=armor+all+shop+vac&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1920&bih=913&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10654659920658835355&sa=X&ei=f8D0Ttu7OIPMtgfG0ZXRBg&ved=0CGsQ8wIwAA


Try cupping a drinking straw (with your hand) over the end of the hose. It's like having an atomic powered keyboard vac. Gets in all the tight places and works even better with "bendy" straws...


----------



## niveK

Here is my loop.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niveK*
> 
> Here is my loop.
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


I am literally saving that pic. It's on of those pics that I gotta save!


----------



## niveK

Thank you RussianHak!!

I have given much trouble while I have assembled that computer.

Here is another one..









Nice christmas @ Overclock community


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

No wonder why I liked it, it's a TJ-07 build









Very nice and clean


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niveK*
> 
> Thank you RussianHak!!
> I have given much trouble while I have assembled that computer.
> Here is another one..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice christmas @ Overclock community


Smexxy


----------



## andrew513210

This took me 2 weeks over the summer to completely de rivet and spray, dremmel the door and top and then cut the acrylic window to size. Orginally a ThermalTake Armor.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrew513210*
> 
> This took me 2 weeks over the summer to completely de rivet and spray, dremmel the door and top and then cut the acrylic window to size. Orginally a ThermalTake Armor.


Awesome work mate. I do love the color combo. Reminds me of the Gulf racing cars.

Man, my rig is piling up dust. Any one know if its ok to use those Swiffers to remove the dust. Most of the terry cloths I have leave lint behind and I ran out of compressed air.


----------



## boostinsteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Smexxy


I do have to say, that is the best looking computer I have seen. I would love to see a build log on this. It looks like a lot of attention was payed to the details. I applaud you.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Man, my rig is piling up dust. Any one know if its ok to use those Swiffers to remove the dust. Most of the terry cloths I have leave lint behind and I ran out of compressed air.


I've used them before, works great, just keep it away from anything that can snag it. It will leave little fuzzies behind.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niveK*
> 
> Thank you RussianHak!!
> 
> I have given much trouble while I have assembled that computer.
> 
> Here is another one..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice christmas @ Overclock community


Are you using a certain filter on that camera or just aperture and exposure settings to get that high contrast look in the picture?

Either way, great shot, really makes the black pop out at you...


----------



## niveK

I've edited the pics with Photoshop CS5.1

here are some unedited pics (german webside)

http://www.sysprofile.de/id85999

have fun..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Looking very nice! There is still so much room in there!


It is huge, to be more specific, its tall! If you aren't careful, and with the casters, it could easily tip over since the majority of the hardware is on the top compartment. Its a great design but the execution leaves a bit of desirability, especially with for the retail price ($499







). Glad I paid less than half







Its lovely but it didn't blow me away as I had hoped it would. So I might not keep it long





































Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hey Wermad, nice build...again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a thread for your build, always like to follow up your progress?


Not this time around. Though this is a nice case (tbh, not the superb or grand) I don't feel it deserves a log since I'm just throwing in my hardware. As I mentioned to Skaboy607, I kinda lost the excitement with this case so I may not keep it long.

As for what might replace this, well that will have to wait until I get my tax return







(Case Labs







)


----------



## ramkatral

Well, I began the new loop I spoke about a few days ago. Just got the loop assembled. Gotta get all the cables done, leak test, etc. yes, I ordered to incorrect bits power compression straight fittings, so the hose is zip tied on bottom rad. New fittings in route. Fully custom loop. What do you guys think so far?


----------



## Pis

Pre testing, wish me luck


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It is huge, to be more specific, its tall! If you aren't careful, and with the casters, it could easily tip over since the majority of the hardware is on the top compartment. Its a great design but the execution leaves a bit of desirability, especially with for the retail price ($499
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Glad I paid less than half
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its lovely but it didn't blow me away as I had hoped it would. So I might not keep it long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not this time around. Though this is a nice case (tbh, not the superb or grand) I don't feel it deserves a log since I'm just throwing in my hardware. As I mentioned to Skaboy607, I kinda lost the excitement with this case so I may not keep it long.
> As for what might replace this, well that will have to wait until I get my tax return
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Case Labs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


What case labs case do you think you might get? Their cases are a bit....weird.....to me in their shapes and sizes but I hear nothing but good things about them.


----------



## deviot

i wana join


----------



## Kenetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Well, I began the new loop I spine about a few days ago. Just got the loop assembled. Gotta get all the cables done, leak test, etc. yes, I ordered to incorrect bits power compression straight fittings, so the hose is zip tied on bottom rad. New fittings in route. Fully custom loop. What do you guys think so far?


Very nice mate. Good tidy setup


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Well, I began the new loop I spine about a few days ago. Just got the loop assembled. Gotta get all the cables done, leak test, etc. yes, I ordered to incorrect bits power compression straight fittings, so the hose is zip tied on bottom rad. New fittings in route. Fully custom loop. What do you guys think so far?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice mate. Good tidy setup
Click to expand...

Thanks. Was worried not going straight from gpu to CPU would look to cluttered, but I wanted to hit the rad before it hit the CPU.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Thanks. Was worried not going straight from gpu to CPU would look to cluttered, but I wanted to hit the rad before it hit the CPU.


Order of loop doesn't really matter much but you could do same thing going res/pump> top rad > cpu > gpu > bottom rad > res. That way you could reduce length of tubing a little bit.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ramkatral

Yea, I'll prolly make some changes when I get the replacement straight bitspowers in. Just kinda experimenting since this is the first time I've had a gpu in loop. This case is a tight fit for all this loop lol.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> What case labs case do you think you might get? Their cases are a bit....weird.....to me in their shapes and sizes but I hear nothing but good things about them.


I've been told by a few here on OCN that Case Labs is going to be coming out with a narrow tower case, I hope this happens before I make the Silverstone TJ11 purchase! I would like it if it has a special bottom compartment just for radiators and power supply! I agree that while Case Labs are very high quality cases the shapes are different from what I'm used to.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> What case labs case do you think you might get? Their cases are a bit....weird.....to me in their shapes and sizes but I hear nothing but good things about them.


Not sure, but money is still tight so it'll be something pre-owned I guess if its a CL.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I've been told by a few here on OCN that Case Labs is going to be coming out with a narrow tower case, I hope this happens before I make the Silverstone TJ11 purchase! I would like it if it has a special bottom compartment just for radiators and power supply! I agree that while Case Labs are very high quality cases the shapes are different from what I'm used to.


Yes, I'm not sure if its production already. Its called the STH-10:


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not sure, but money is still tight so it'll be something pre-owned I guess if its a CL.
> Yes, I'm not sure if its production already. Its called the STH-10:


http://forums.pureoverclock.com/showthread.php?15089-CaseLabs-MAGNUM-STH10-Prototype-pics

I would buy it just to have more overkill on my rig. lmao


----------



## lowfat

That is the first Case Labs chassis that I really have liked. Looks like it might be able to take 140mm radiators too.


----------



## jellis142

That is the most epic tower I have ever laid eyes on.


----------



## Systemlord

I want one, how many radiators can fit in the bottom section and what size? My requirements are 480 radiators and not just 360's, I would also like to be able to fit my 140mm radiators in it!


----------



## wermad

I haven't been in the CL section for a while but if its based on the same depth as the M8, then it only can hold 360mm rads. I suspecting CL is or has made one based on the TH10 which does hold 480mm rads.


----------



## ramkatral

Well, she's done! The difference on my GPU is insane. 12C difference in idle temps. Gotta wait to do some heavy BF3 and Skyrim to see what average temps are there. The Swiftech Apogee HD block is showing a 4C lower load temp than the XSPC RASA CPU block did, both on MX-4 TIM with same pump and tubing size. Again, as for the ziptied ends on the rad, I ordered 1/2 ID 5/8OD straight compression fittings instead of 1/2ID 3/4OD like an idiot. FrozenCPU is kind enough to exchange them for me, but it's gonna take a few days for shipping to and from. Waiting for Lutro0 to finish my custom extensions to finalize my cable management end, and then I believe I'll be happy.... For a little while.

Ordered the backplate for the GPU also, but it's backordered. It'll be a little while before I have it.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice on components. It feels kinda empowering to be 'off the kit' and on a totally custom loop.









P.S. Sorry for crappy pics. I took them in a hurry so I can get started on getting Christmas stuff ready for the kids in the morning. I'll take some high quality ones later.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I haven't been in the CL section for a while but if its based on the same depth as the M8, then it only can hold 360mm rads. I suspecting CL is or has made one based on the TH10 which does hold 480mm rads.


Bruh, 819x675x286mm. I'm not big on aluminum cases but







, I'd entertain leaving my 932 and rollin that bit of serious desk blingage.









It's wide enough to hold a 400 Xtreme or 3x180 Rad.









~Ceadder


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not sure, but money is still tight so it'll be something pre-owned I guess if its a CL.
> Yes, I'm not sure if its production already. Its called the STH-10:


Now I know I wont be able to afford this but it is possibly one of the nicest looking cases I have seen. Finally CL doing a more traditional shape. Myabe i'll just try and get a secondhand TJ07 and mod that.


----------



## Boiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boiller*
> 
> My newly upgraded to WC rig, still gonna add a Swiftech 240 to the top in a couple of weeks:
> 
> http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j146/boiller/IMG_3371.jpg
> 
> http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j146/boiller/IMG_3372.jpg
> 
> http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j146/boiller/IMG_3375.jpg


Just finished my new loop, added a Swiftech MCR220 to the top. Also threw in another GTX470, and some other goodies: new res, a Crucial M4, an Asus Xonar DS and some purdy lighting!











rest of the album here: http://imgur.com/a/K3bX3


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boiller*
> 
> Just finished my new loop, added a Swiftech MCR220 to the top. Also threw in another GTX470, and some other goodies: new res, a Crucial M4, an Asus Xonar DS and some purdy lighting!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rest of the album here: http://imgur.com/a/K3bX3


Love the clean look. Nice job!


----------



## gumball458

Hi guys,

My friend helped me install this rasa 240 today.


----------



## wermad

When life gives you lemons, you make lemonade











^^^I had a bunch of spare drive covers from my old case with brushed aluminum appliques. With some acrylic added for the side braces, I was able to fashion some slot covers and save myself the money by not buying them. The top is the front i/o panel from my old case (I got a new replacement so this was a spare, though its a bit broken). There is a gap and that's to allow the door to open. It took me some time to adapt it to the H2 and looks a bit crude but it works







. I had one crapped out slot cover from the old case that I ended up removing the aluminum applique after heating it with a heat gun. I added this to cover the old power button hole.



^^^The psu blocked the bottom rads right most fan(s) and since I had this psu bracket lying around I ended up using it to push out the psu and now the fan is almost complete free of obstructions.



^^^ran out of clear tube and some extensions so I'm using a spare white tube (I got a bunch of white tube) and some gpu link fittings for now. I placed a small order from ppcs for the final bits and pieces. Hopefully they ship it out soon.

So I'm keeping this case. Its kinda growing on me, especially the inverted mb tray


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> When life gives you lemons, you make lemonade


You mean Radioactive Lime Juice, right?









Which fluid did you end up going with, Feser or Meyhem?


----------



## R3apR369

Lil update on my rig. Finally got the EK-FC580.



















...and yeah, the tubing between the 120 rad and 240 rad is killing me! The tubing isn't pinched though. I've been thinking on getting another 240 rad to replace this one. I don't know just yet.

Also! Do you guys think I should have the outlet of the pump go straight to the gpu. In other words, pump>gpu>rad>cpu>rad>res? Right now, my CPU idle's @ 35c, while my gpu idles at 30c. (I live in FL btw). If I change the routing, which equals a lot less tubing, think the results would be lower?

And what the hell is AUX in CPUID Hardware Monitor?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3apR369*
> 
> Lil update on my rig. Finally got the EK-FC580.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> ...and yeah, the tubing between the 120 rad and 240 rad is killing me! The tubing isn't pinched though. I've been thinking on getting another 240 rad to replace this one. I don't know just yet.
> 
> Also! Do you guys think I should have the outlet of the pump go straight to the gpu. In other words, pump>gpu>rad>cpu>rad>res? Right now, my CPU idle's @ 35c, while my gpu idles at 30c. (I live in FL btw). If I change the routing, which equals a lot less tubing, think the results would be lower?
> 
> And what the hell is AUX in CPUID Hardware Monitor?


Yeah I think that would be better but since I can't see your bay device I can't tell if that is a fillport/Res or if it's just a bay Res. Either way same diff I guess. But you'd have to send a hose to the top of the Res from it in order to change the orientation of your pump. I know it doesn't much matter(according to a lot of h2o coolers) but I would still want cool water over heated any day of the week in my Res to flow through my pump. I think I'm looking at this correctly when I see... CPU > 120 > GPU > Res > Pump > Res > ? Assuming Bay ? > 240 > CPU?









An yeah it looks pinched but you could solve that with a 45 or 90 turned inward and a 45 on the CPU block.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> You mean Radioactive Lime Juice, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which fluid did you end up going with, Feser or Meyhem?










I have Mayhems uv Green running. Its pretty good stuff.

I was a bit disappointed with this new case but I'm trying to make the most out of it. Its got its bright spots but a little modding and hacking (I really didn't want to do this







) and its growing on me.


----------



## R3apR369

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I think that would be better but since I can't see your bay device I can't tell if that is a fillport/Res or if it's just a bay Res. Either way same diff I guess. But you'd have to send a hose to the top of the Res from it in order to change the orientation of your pump. I know it doesn't much matter(according to a lot of h2o coolers) but I would still want cool water over heated any day of the week in my Res to flow through my pump. I think I'm looking at this correctly when I see... CPU > 120 > GPU > Res > Pump > Res > ? Assuming Bay ? > 240 > CPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An yeah it looks pinched but you could solve that with a 45 or 90 turned inward and a 45 on the CPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Theirs actually no Bay-drive reservoir, just the tube one. I Just have a long tube going from the pump outlet to the 240 rad. Setup is as: res>pump>240rad>cpu>120rad>gpu>res. I think I am going to cut some tubing. The extra slack doesn't bother me much, but if I can get lower temps, i'll do it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3apR369*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I think that would be better but since I can't see your bay device I can't tell if that is a fillport/Res or if it's just a bay Res. Either way same diff I guess. But you'd have to send a hose to the top of the Res from it in order to change the orientation of your pump. I know it doesn't much matter(according to a lot of h2o coolers) but I would still want cool water over heated any day of the week in my Res to flow through my pump. I think I'm looking at this correctly when I see... CPU > 120 > GPU > Res > Pump > Res > ? Assuming Bay ? > 240 > CPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An yeah it looks pinched but you could solve that with a 45 or 90 turned inward and a 45 on the CPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theirs actually no Bay-drive reservoir, just the tube one. I Just have a long tube going from the pump outlet to the 240 rad. Setup is as: res>pump>240rad>cpu>120rad>gpu>res. I think I am going to cut some tubing. The extra slack doesn't bother me much, but if I can get lower temps, i'll do it.
Click to expand...









No wonders I thought there was a bay Res.









Yeah, I would divert that tube to the Res flow from Res to Pump and pump to GPU.









~Ceadder


----------



## KyadCK

My first go at water cooling, set up a push/pull H100. Max temp went from 65C to 47C from my N520, so I'm loving it so far.


----------



## Socom

Here's my first go at watercooling: One off RASA EX360 kit. I also added an EK gtx 480 waterblock. Ignore the ugly fan wires, I need to order a fan controller


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3apR369*
> 
> Lil update on my rig. Finally got the EK-FC580.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and yeah, the tubing between the 120 rad and 240 rad is killing me! The tubing isn't pinched though. I've been thinking on getting another 240 rad to replace this one. I don't know just yet.
> Also! Do you guys think I should have the outlet of the pump go straight to the gpu. In other words, pump>gpu>rad>cpu>rad>res? Right now, my CPU idle's @ 35c, while my gpu idles at 30c. (I live in FL btw). If I change the routing, which equals a lot less tubing, think the results would be lower?
> And what the hell is AUX in CPUID Hardware Monitor?


Nice color combo !









*@All: My new review is online, check it out now:*

http://www.overclock.net/t/1190800/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-16-rads-tested


----------



## R3apR369

@Ceadderman - thanks man, I'll probably make the switch on the tubing. Maybe buy some compression fittings as well. @Bundymania - Thanks Bundy The blue/black/white theme looks a lot nicer in person.! Even more with the led strip lit up. Would like to sleeve the psu though....or even trade it in for another. The yellow leds and grey psu cover is......Meh.


----------



## lawndart

Here is my Rig I know it doesn't look as purdy as all the others I have seen... My digital cam is out of whack right now so I have to use my webcam to get pics.



Some Changes since this was taken...
I moved the cathode light to the top and added Purple dye to the distilled water..



As you can see I have my Radiator affixed under the top plate and the fans are on top. I will be adding 2 more fans for a "push pull" effect




I know it could be better but due to financial constraints this is all I can do at this time.

LawnDart


----------



## ramkatral

I like the exterior rad mounting. I like it a lot, actually.


----------



## Millerboy3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> I like the exterior rad mounting. I like it a lot, actually.


im kinda lost... you mean res? ^_^

i was looking for ideas and im a complete noob at WC'ing but i need to make sure i know whats going on in the pics here


----------



## lawndart

OK i used distilled water in my cooling system.

Flow is from reservoir to cpu block, then to radiator to pump back to reservoir. I used a heavier sized tubing so i wont get kinks in the system. I have a Swiftec dual rad, Swiftec pump and I ordered a reservoir from Xoxide here http://www.xoxide.com/frozenq-liquidfusionvseries160mmreservoir-red.html.

Al you have to remember is, if you want to get into watercooling ask alot of questions and get the set-up that you want. I know mine isn't as astectically pleasing as some others but i like it.

LawnDart


----------



## `br4dz-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawndart*
> 
> 
> OK i used distilled water in my cooling system.
> Flow is from reservoir to cpu block, then to radiator to pump back to reservoir. I used a heavier sized tubing so i wont get kinks in the system. I have a Swiftec dual rad, Swiftec pump and I ordered a reservoir from Xoxide here http://www.xoxide.com/frozenq-liquidfusionvseries160mmreservoir-red.html.
> Al you have to remember is, if you want to get into watercooling ask alot of questions and get the set-up that you want. I know mine isn't as astectically pleasing as some others but i like it.
> LawnDart


Not true. MCP655's/D5's outlet is at the top. Therefore, you have the water going like this:

pump > rad > cpu block > res > pump

This means your CPU block may connected backwards too, since you got the flow path wrong. Might want to look into that.


----------



## ramkatral

Yea I meant res. lol


----------



## Specops53

Here is my setup

*Pump:* MCP655
*CPU Block:* EK Supreme HF rev. 3
*Reservoir:* XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir
*Radiator:* XSPC RX480
*Tubing:* PrimoChill LRT Black 1/2 ID 3/4 OD
*Fitting:* Bits Power Compression Fittings

Current Flow path:

Reservoir->Pump->Radiator->CPU->Reservoir







I think that the RX480 is probably overkill but I plan on adding a GPU to the loop at some point. How much will adding a single or dual GPU to the loop effect my processor temps?

Let me know what you think also any ideas for changes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Specops53*
> 
> y processor temps?
> Let me know what you think also any ideas for changes.


You have plenty of cooling power for a gpu (actually two gpus) so it shouldn't affect your cpu temps.


----------



## R3apR369

TJ07.







One day i'll fork out the moneyz for this case. One day!.......maybe tax day. Lol.


----------



## Dradien

IMG_20111227_095409.jpg 616k .jpg file


Just redid my loop. Moved the Rad from the back to the top, and redid the tubing. By going the way that I did, I removed over, i would say, 2 feet of unneeded tubing. Looks a lot cleaner and better.

Going to be ordering a good bunch of sleeving from MDPC soon and get on that, so I'll also post pictures when that happens.

And I need to dust more often, because damn....but I blame that on the coal...


----------



## RushMore1205

here is my new Project, Pc for girlfriend

*Electric Seahorse Companion Cube*


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradien*
> 
> Just redid my loop. Moved the Rad from the back to the top, and redid the tubing. By going the way that I did, I removed over, i would say, 2 feet of unneeded tubing. Looks a lot cleaner and better.
> 
> Going to be ordering a good bunch of sleeving from MDPC soon and get on that, so I'll also post pictures when that happens.
> 
> And I need to dust more often, because damn....but I blame that on the coal...


Santa put your CPU in your stocking with the coal you earned from this past year?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> here is my new Project, Pc for girlfriend
> 
> *Electric Seahorse Companion Cube*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip snip*


Very nice. She must be a good GF to have earned such a clean looking system. You built the case I take it? If you did, that is a smashing job Rush. Looks Beast.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Santa put your CPU in your stocking with the coal you earned from this past year?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. She must be a good GF to have earned such a clean looking system. You built the case I take it? If you did, that is a smashing job Rush. Looks Beast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


this my twist on danger dens waterbox, they were reallykind of cutting the plexi for me.
and yes she is the best thing that has happened to me in a really long time


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Santa put your CPU in your stocking with the coal you earned from this past year?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. She must be a good GF to have earned such a clean looking system. You built the case I take it? If you did, that is a smashing job Rush. Looks Beast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this my twist on danger dens waterbox, they were reallykind of cutting the plexi for me.
> and yes she is the best thing that has happened to me in a really long time
Click to expand...

Awesome job bruh. You wanz finish my build.







heheh

How bout the 9ers eh?









~Ceadder


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


The old 780i chip boards.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> here is my new Project, Pc for girlfriend
> 
> *Electric Seahorse Companion Cube*


That is very clean so far, hopefully you can keep it looking that way once everything is up and running. Do you have a build log for it?


----------



## Tweak17emon

just did a whole bunch of cleaning on both sides:


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon*
> 
> just did a whole bunch of cleaning on both sides:


Lol that's a lot of tubes


----------



## Tweak17emon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*
> 
> Lol that's a lot of tubes


7 waterblocks, 4 360mm rads, and 2 pumps.

sig rig/build log


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon*
> 
> 7 waterblocks, 4 360mm rads, and 2 pumps.
> sig rig/build log


holy blocks batman!


----------



## Hogwasher

anybody use this site before? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/

Are they any good?

Prices look good and right now they are doing free shipping. This site was recommended by another member but since I have never heard of it before I thought I would check and see what you guys thought.


----------



## solsamurai

Never heard anything bad about them on OCN.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> anybody use this site before? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
> 
> Are they any good?
> 
> Prices look good and right now they are doing free shipping. This site was recommended by another member but since I have never heard of it before I thought I would check and see what you guys thought.


They hooked me up with a replacement wb o-ring for free that I didn't even buy from them. I give them 2


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> anybody use this site before? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
> Are they any good?
> Prices look good and right now they are doing free shipping. This site was recommended by another member but since I have never heard of it before I thought I would check and see what you guys thought.


I heard good stuff about them.


----------



## bundymania

*New Review out now







*

http://www.overclock.net/t/1190800/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-16-rads-tested


----------



## ramkatral

Sidewinder is great. I just don't like the limited selection.

On another note... My worst nightmare came true today. My pump failed. Apparently coretemp had crashed, so it wasn't able to shut down when the temps sky rocketed. Long story short, I apparently have a dead 2600k paper weight. Gpu survived, thanks to it being able to handle higher temps I guess. I had to put my old i3 2120 back in til I figure sonething out. Bad day.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Sidewinder is great. I just don't like the limited selection.
> On another note... My worst nightmare came true today. My pump failed. Apparently coretemp had crashed, so it wasn't able to shut down when the temps sky rocketed. Long story short, I apparently have a dead 2600k paper weight. Gpu survived, thanks to it being able to handle higher temps I guess. I had to put my old i3 2120 back in til I figure sonething out. Bad day.


that sucks man, im surprised the mobo didnt shut everything down or that the cpu didnt throttle...


----------



## Hogwasher

think I'm going to give sidewinder a try. gave rep! thanks for the help


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> think I'm going to give sidewinder a try. gave rep! thanks for the help


Sidewinder is highly recommended here on OCN!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> anybody use this site before? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
> Are they any good?
> Prices look good and right now they are doing free shipping. This site was recommended by another member but since I have never heard of it before I thought I would check and see what you guys thought.


I've ordered from them 4-5 times, and since they are within the "tri-state" area I got my orders next day. I find that their prices are usually a few bucks cheaper than PPC's, Jab-Tech, and others as well. They did send me one wrong fitting once, but sent out the replacement the same day I emailed them. Granted I sent the email around 8am, but good customer service nonetheless.


----------



## wermad

Great store sidewinder.com


----------



## Angrybutcher

New updates this weekend provided my diy pump fix works


----------



## Bouf0010

mmmmmm pump guts, hope it works out for ya!!


----------



## derickwm

Just placed a nice $742 order at Performance-PCs. 3930k build log coming soon


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just placed a nice $742 order at Performance-PCs. 3930k build log coming soon


baaaahhhh all these x79 builds are making me twitch


----------



## derickwm

Hehe mine is long over due. I wanted to do mine at launch of the x79 platform. Have had bad luck with some things.

I can't wait though


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe mine is long over due. I wanted to do mine at launch of the x79 platform. Have had bad luck with some things.
> I can't wait though


its kinda nice to wait and see some benchmarks and remarks on how ppl like it before jumping into the $1000+ pool.

On another note, i picked up another GTX580 DCII and my package from dazmode with the EK block, backplate, and bridge connector is coming today!!! Ive been up since 7am waiting for this package to come so i can start the work of draining the loop and putting in the new card.

Has anyone pinched off tubing so that they didnt have to do a full drain??


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> anybody use this site before? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
> Are they any good?
> Prices look good and right now they are doing free shipping. This site was recommended by another member but since I have never heard of it before I thought I would check and see what you guys thought.


It's very good I bough from there including International shipping for radiator and some other stuffs and all arrive without problems and very fast. Another good site is Jab-Tech.com


----------



## Tweak17emon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe mine is long over due. I wanted to do mine at launch of the x79 platform. Have had bad luck with some things.
> I can't wait though


what cpu block did you get? Danger Den just released their 2011 block today and leme tell ya, its sick. My house is set to 22C with the heat on, and im idling at 20C


----------



## PCSarge

hey guys, figured id update my rig, it has a new home in a 500R White now!





the RS240 thats in there literally has 3MM of space above the mobo. if the case was any shorter, it would have hit the heatsink on the top of the mobo.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe mine is long over due. I wanted to do mine at launch of the x79 platform. Have had bad luck with some things.
> I can't wait though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what cpu block did you get? Danger Den just released their 2011 block today and leme tell ya, its sick. My house is set to 22C with the heat on, and im idling at 20C
Click to expand...

I went with the Raystorm... Hum. Now I'm tempted to call them up and remove it from the order. Damn you.

I do like how the raystorm looks over the new DD block though. Decisions decisions.


----------



## Tweak17emon

its completely on par with the Raystorm. Im not going to lie to you, but this block is completely awesome.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-m6-nickel-cpu-block-lga-2011-1155-1156-1366-775.html

apparently it wont be in till Jan 2nd though.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweak17emon*
> 
> its completely on par with the Raystorm. Im not going to lie to you, but this block is completely awesome.
> http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-m6-nickel-cpu-block-lga-2011-1155-1156-1366-775.html
> apparently it wont be in till Jan 2nd though.


hmm Apparently i may finally throw my 775 block in the box of unused parts and order one...we will see...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Do you guys think it's worth it to toss my cpu block for something newer?


----------



## kamikaze_

EK Supreme HF? I would definitely stick with that block. I'm not going to hold you back from trying anything new, by all means go ahead and spend away.


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Sidewinder is great. I just don't like the limited selection.
> On another note... My worst nightmare came true today. My pump failed. Apparently coretemp had crashed, so it wasn't able to shut down when the temps sky rocketed. Long story short, I apparently have a dead 2600k paper weight. Gpu survived, thanks to it being able to handle higher temps I guess. I had to put my old i3 2120 back in til I figure sonething out. Bad day.
> 
> 
> 
> that sucks man, im surprised the mobo didnt shut everything down or that the cpu didnt throttle...
Click to expand...

The mobo did shut down, which saved my gpu thank god. I'm surprised at the chip not throttling myself. I'm wondering if it had something wrong with it.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> The mobo did shut down, which saved my gpu thank god. I'm surprised at the chip not throttling myself. I'm wondering if it had something wrong with it.


this got me back to thinking about my old plan, Y connecting an extra pump into the loop on a home made failsafe temperature switch, so that if my cpu or anything jumped above 87C, that it would switch on....been putting off that soldering project for the circuit board for over a month...time to get on it.


----------



## ramkatral

Yea, it's a bit frustrating. Normally I have Coretemp there to shut it down, but for some reason it didn't. Not really sure why. I think it may have crashed or something.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> The mobo did shut down, which saved my gpu thank god. I'm surprised at the chip not throttling myself. I'm wondering if it had something wrong with it.


i would definitively RMA that chip. They dont need to know what happened, they just need to know that it doesnt work anymore.


----------



## RussianJ

Something was wrong if it don't throttle to save itself.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ*
> 
> Something was wrong if it don't throttle to save itself.


this. the chip is supposed to throttle at 90C AFAIK


----------



## moa.

My first watercooling setup, some more photos


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> this got me back to thinking about my old plan, Y connecting an extra pump into the loop on a home made failsafe temperature switch, so that if my cpu or anything jumped above 87C, that it would switch on....been putting off that soldering project for the circuit board for over a month...time to get on it.


You would need to put check valves in the Y-fitting, otherwise when only one pump is working, it'll just be pushing most of the water through the pump that isn't working. You'd be better off running 2 pumps in series and throttling them w/ a controller.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/26/pump-setup-series-vs-parallel/


----------



## ramkatral

I'll do the RMA process then. I thought it should have saved itself, but wasn't sure. Thanks for the recommendations!


----------



## derickwm

Performance PCs wrote me this morning informing that due to the large packaging required they need an additional *$28* for shipping... this makes me unhappy. Have had good experiences with them in the past but this is annoying.

It better actually cost the full $60 i've now paid for shipping.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Sidewinder is great. I just don't like the limited selection.
> On another note... My worst nightmare came true today. My pump failed. Apparently coretemp had crashed, so it wasn't able to shut down when the temps sky rocketed. Long story short, I apparently have a dead 2600k paper weight. Gpu survived, thanks to it being able to handle higher temps I guess. I had to put my old i3 2120 back in til I figure sonething out. Bad day.
> 
> 
> 
> that sucks man, im surprised the mobo didnt shut everything down or that the cpu didnt throttle...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The mobo did shut down, which saved my gpu thank god. I'm surprised at the chip not throttling myself. I'm wondering if it had something wrong with it.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> The mobo did shut down, which saved my gpu thank god. I'm surprised at the chip not throttling myself. I'm wondering if it had something wrong with it.
> 
> 
> 
> i would definitively RMA that chip. They dont need to know what happened, they just need to know that it doesnt work anymore.
Click to expand...

Yessir







^ this. What Intel don't know won't hurt Intel.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Sidewinder is great. I just don't like the limited selection.
> On another note... My worst nightmare came true today. My pump failed. Apparently coretemp had crashed, so it wasn't able to shut down when the temps sky rocketed. Long story short, I apparently have a dead 2600k paper weight. Gpu survived, thanks to it being able to handle higher temps I guess. I had to put my old i3 2120 back in til I figure sonething out. Bad day.
> 
> 
> 
> that sucks man, im surprised the mobo didnt shut everything down or that the cpu didnt throttle...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The mobo did shut down, which saved my gpu thank god. I'm surprised at the chip not throttling myself. I'm wondering if it had something wrong with it.
Click to expand...

RMA that bad boy. Just don't tell Intel, well you know what not to tell Intel. Run the stock cooler too if they want proof.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Performance PCs wrote me this morning informing that due to the large packaging required they need an additional *$28* for shipping... this makes me unhappy. Have had good experiences with them in the past but this is annoying.
> 
> It better actually cost the full $60 i've now paid for shipping.


That sucks dude. You must be getting some big stuffs for them to contact you requesting increase in shipping.









~Ceadder


----------



## compmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Yea, it's a bit frustrating. Normally I have Coretemp there to shut it down, but for some reason it didn't. Not really sure why. I think it may have crashed or something.


The overheating was to mask the murder of one chip.
You have an assassin in your computer case sir!


----------



## Modus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> My first watercooling setup, some more photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/675850/width/600/height/403/flags/][IMG alt="403"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/675850/width/600/height/403[/URL][/QUOTE]
> 
> Hey Moa. Great rig you got there. What size tubing/fitting is that?


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modus*
> 
> Hey Moa. Great rig you got there. What size tubing/fitting is that?


This is 3/8 1/2 tubing from Masterkleer, other companies have ugly pink tubing, more like red


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> its kinda nice to wait and see some benchmarks and remarks on how ppl like it before jumping into the $1000+ pool.
> On another note, i picked up another GTX580 DCII and my package from dazmode with the EK block, backplate, and bridge connector is coming today!!! Ive been up since 7am waiting for this package to come so i can start the work of draining the loop and putting in the new card.
> Has anyone pinched off tubing so that they didnt have to do a full drain??


I have just the thing for those that don't want to drain their entire loop,


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Yea, it's a bit frustrating. Normally I have Coretemp there to shut it down, but for some reason it didn't. Not really sure why. I think it may have crashed or something.


You need Real Temp, it works every time!


----------



## azcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azcrazy*
> 
> second rig in this thread

























































Hey guy

same case new ( 6month old) parts


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Performance PCs wrote me this morning informing that due to the large packaging required they need an additional *$28* for shipping... this makes me unhappy. Have had good experiences with them in the past but this is annoying.
> It better actually cost the full $60 i've now paid for shipping.


How did they come to that conclusion and did this happen after your order was complete?


----------



## azcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> How did they come to that conclusion and did this happen after your order was complete?


they never done that to me, wierd!!!!!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Performance PCs wrote me this morning informing that due to the large packaging required they need an additional *$28* for shipping... this makes me unhappy. Have had good experiences with them in the past but this is annoying.
> It better actually cost the full $60 i've now paid for shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> How did they come to that conclusion and did this happen after your order was complete?
Click to expand...

Placed order at around 3am my time, paid $32 shipping.

Woke up this morning saying my order was on hold and they were requesting $28 more for shipping.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Placed order at around 3am my time, paid $32 shipping.
> Woke up this morning saying my order was on hold and they were requesting $28 more for shipping.


That's unbelievable, I would have canceled my entire order if any business tried that with me!


----------



## compmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> That's unbelievable, I would have canceled my entire order if any business tried that with me!


"Hi, Jerry. Michael Scott. Well, this is slightly embarrassing. Um, I'm going to have to... ask you to pay me a little bit more money for that delivery we dropped off yesterday. Yeah. We did. We got the check, but we're just going to need a much, much bigger check." - Michael Scott


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Placed order at around 3am my time, paid $32 shipping.
> Woke up this morning saying my order was on hold and they were requesting $28 more for shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> That's unbelievable, I would have canceled my entire order if any business tried that with me!
Click to expand...

The problem is that the $32 is just an estimation and it is done by computer. I know it's difficult to believe but computers are not infallible.









I would at least call them tomorrow and find out what the deal is if the the extra isn't paid yet. Also not doubting derrick ordered all at once but if he added anything that could change the whole shipping cost in a pinch.









~Ceadder


----------



## skaboy607

I need a new pump. I have what I believe to be an old MCP355 18W as it has a black impeller but it is noisy even when mounted on foam and annoying me! Any suggestions?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> I need a new pump. I have what I believe to be an old MCP355 18W as it has a black impeller but it is noisy even when mounted on foam and annoying me! Any suggestions?


Under volt it. Besides modding the pcb, you can hook it up to a knob fan controller to lower the voltage. I would check your models specs to ensure what is the minimum run and startup voltages (or just set it to 12v like the standard mcp 355 blue impeller).


----------



## Hogwasher

Been busy just now got back to read the responses on the sidewinder. Thanks and gave rep to everyone. If I missed you let me know. Thanks for the help guys!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> That's unbelievable, I would have canceled my entire order if any business tried that with me!


I was tempted to but I really don't want to try and piece together the order somewhere else. -.- I'll just see how it plays out, if the package does indeed cost $60 to ship then ok, if it ends up costing less then I'll find somewhere else to shop. It was like 34lbs I believe... $32 to ship seemed a bit favorable to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compmaster*
> 
> "Hi, Jerry. Michael Scott. Well, this is slightly embarrassing. Um, I'm going to have to... ask you to pay me a little bit more money for that delivery we dropped off yesterday. Yeah. We did. We got the check, but we're just going to need a much, much bigger check." - Michael Scott


hehehe








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The problem is that the $32 is just an estimation and it is done by computer. I know it's difficult to believe but computers are not infallible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would at least call them tomorrow and find out what the deal is if the the extra isn't paid yet. Also not doubting derrick ordered all at once but if he added anything that could change the whole shipping cost in a pinch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hehe I ordered all at once


----------



## RushMore1205

And now the XSPC RayStorm


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The problem is that the $32 is just an estimation and it is done by computer. I know it's difficult to believe but computers are not infallible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would at least call them tomorrow and find out what the deal is if the the extra isn't paid yet. Also not doubting derrick ordered all at once but if he added anything that could change the whole shipping cost in a pinch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The computer might have added the weight when he was adding to his cart but probably didn't add the dimensions of the items, therefore requiring a bigger shipping container. I can't wait to see what's in the box he ordered!


----------



## Doober

upgraded my pump and res, it is a much cleaner look now IMO. also i mounted the HDD and SSD with foam then squished to the bottom of the cd cage. It is now much quieter and hardly any vibrations are transferred to the case.

the best part is now my temps are way way better, and i also can get away with running the 35x at about 45% pwm

anyway front 

inside




after looking at this pic iv decided to move the GPU wires on the left side of the cpu tubing, also I am going to get some black zipties. also the foil tape is a temp measure.

-doober


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doober*
> 
> inside
> 
> after looking at this pic iv decided to move the GPU wires on the left side of the cpu tubing, also I am going to get some black zipties. also the foil tape is a temp measure.
> -doober


Plastic there to prevent air bleeding? Or just protecting the finish or preventing dust build up? Just curios and btw, very awesome water build


----------



## LiquidHaus

added a NB block to my sig rig. i mean it was only 20 bucks


----------



## Doober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Plastic there to prevent air bleeding? Or just protecting the finish or preventing dust build up? Just curios and btw, very awesome water build


you mean the foil tape on the side of the fans? as i said it is a temporary measure. it holds the fans to the radiator because I wanted to be able to switch them without removing everything.

-doober

and thanks

also i forgot the specs are an 1100t at 3.8ghz, and SLI Gtx 460 at 855mhz


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doober*
> 
> you mean the foil tape on the side of the fans? as i said it is a temporary measure. it holds the fans to the radiator because I wanted to be able to switch them without removing everything.
> -doober
> and thanks
> also i forgot the specs are an 1100t at 3.8ghz, and SLI Gtx 460 at 855mhz










Thought it was plastic, fooled me or I'm just too tired (going through another major rig change







) to read and see clearly







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The problem is that the $32 is just an estimation and it is done by computer. I know it's difficult to believe but computers are not infallible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would at least call them tomorrow and find out what the deal is if the the extra isn't paid yet. Also not doubting derrick ordered all at once but if he added anything that could change the whole shipping cost in a pinch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer might have added the weight when he was adding to his cart but probably didn't add the dimensions of the items, therefore requiring a bigger shipping container. I can't wait to see what's in the box he ordered!
Click to expand...

Yup, me neither. I am so jealous. I should call Hank and have him divert it to me so I can get a box full of WIN!







heheh

~Ceadder


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Under volt it. Besides modding the pcb, you can hook it up to a knob fan controller to lower the voltage. I would check your models specs to ensure what is the minimum run and startup voltages (or just set it to 12v like the standard mcp 355 blue impeller).


How can I do that? The pump had three wires, two that went into a molex and the one that is just an RPM sensor only, this one is plugged into my fan controller (lamptron FC touch) but I changing the speed has no effect.


----------



## derickwm

Well I got lots of exciting things but it's probably just this that is requiring the large box/shipping cost.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> How can I do that? The pump had three wires, two that went into a molex and the one that is just an RPM sensor only, this one is plugged into my fan controller (lamptron FC touch) but I changing the speed has no effect.


The is a controller designed to allow you to adjust the voltages of the pump at will, but you might not like what it will cost you! 12V Pump or Fan Speed Controller


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> The is a controller designed to allow you to adjust the voltages of the pump at will, but you might not like what it will cost you! 12V Pump or Fan Speed Controller


Your right! Not that keen on spending more money on the build lol! Though I was thinking why can't I wire the pump wires into a 3 pin fan header and plug in to the controller. Will it not be able to provide enough voltage for the pump to run?


----------



## Ceadderman

$23 plus shipping will get you a Sunbeam RheoSmart 3 and you can dial it down to your hearts content w/o worrying about a blown channel or pump.









This is what werm was talking about...



You may have to change your connector though. Not sure what you have on your pump now but people tend to opt for Molex right off the bat, which is a shame because a 3 pin connection would be so much more beneficial in the long run.









@Derrick... No wonder they wanted more shipping. Yeah the weight isn't there but that thing needs its own truck it seems.









~Ceadder


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> $23 plus shipping will get you a Sunbeam RheoSmart 3 and you can dial it down to your hearts content w/o worrying about a blown channel or pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what werm was talking about...
> 
> You may have to change your connector though. Not sure what you have on your pump now but people tend to opt for Molex right off the bat, which is a shame because a 3 pin connection would be so much more beneficial in the long run.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Derrick... No wonder they wanted more shipping. Yeah the weight isn't there but that thing needs its own truck it seems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks Ceadder. Is there a way to work out/confirm whether plugging my pump into my current controller, a Lamptron FC touch will be ok. I don't have a bay for another controller and i'd like to try and avoid buying another controller just for the pump.

Thanks


----------



## andytom69

this is screen of G19 key whit aiida 64 plugin


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Thanks Ceadder. Is there a way to work out/confirm whether plugging my pump into my current controller, a Lamptron FC touch will be ok. I don't have a bay for another controller and i'd like to try and avoid buying another controller just for the pump.
> Thanks


as long as the channel has 12v it should be fine. I have a Scythe 12 channel/knob controller with 12v per channel. I can drop the voltage of my mcp 355 to where its dead silent. I keep the pump on its on channel so its not tied in with other fans.

You can easily get fan pins and crimp them on the wires. The sensor is the last one on the right. btw, don't let the colors confuse you, just keep in mind that fans have a 12v, unless stated otherwise, dc cable and mostly comes in red (molex typically uses red wires for 5v).



Pins

Connector


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> as long as the channel has 12v it should be fine. I have a Scythe 12 channel/knob controller with 12v per channel. I can drop the voltage of my mcp 355 to where its dead silent. I keep the pump on its on channel so its not tied in with other fans.
> You can easily get fan pins and crimp them on the wires. The sensor is the last one on the right. btw, don't let the colors confuse you, just keep in mind that fans have a 12v, unless stated otherwise, dc cable and mostly comes in red (molex typically uses red wires for 5v).
> 
> Pins
> Connector


I've got some spare pins from some mods I made when I did this build. The pump came with power wires in a molex and an RPM sensor on a 3 pin fan connector. I will just be able to combine the power wires with some fan crimp pins to the rpm sensor cable! Sweet, that's tonights task sorted!

EDIT: The data for my fan controller says it supports 30W per channel but nothing in terms of volts?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> I've got some spare pins from some mods I made when I did this build. The pump came with power wires in a molex and an RPM sensor on a 3 pin fan connector. I will just be able to combine the power wires with some fan crimp pins to the rpm sensor cable! Sweet, that's tonights task sorted!
> EDIT: The data for my fan controller says it supports 30W per channel but nothing in terms of volts?


Sorry, meant watts









Take your pumps amperage * voltage (12v in this case) = wattage.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> And now the XSPC RayStorm


Beautiful looking build there. Are you going to swap out the blue leds in the block for green?


----------



## ramkatral

I like the blue glow in the block and all, but being OCD about cables... I could handle those two extra cables running out from there. I'd die. I won't even run the temperature probes that came with my fan controller because it will add visible cables to my rig.... I know, it's sad.


----------



## aar0nsky

Here are some pics of my recently refurbished system








I am still waiting on one of my fluorescent lights that I had to RMA.


----------



## skaboy607

Whilst I'm doing this pump mod, I mIght clean the loop out. Waters been in there 6 months. Is there a way to do it without taking rads and blocks out etc?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Whilst I'm doing this pump mod, I mIght clean the loop out. Waters been in there 6 months. Is there a way to do it without taking rads and blocks out etc?


You could replace your coolant with vinegar and run it for maybe 15 to 20 minutes, drain and rinse maybe? Vinegar is a great cleaner and it shouldn't harm anything in your loop because it's natural. But I haven't tried it so someone who is more experienced might have a different take on this subject. If you don't have a drain tube this may also be a little difficult to do.









~Ceadder


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You could replace your coolant with vinegar and run it for maybe 15 to 20 minutes, drain and rinse maybe? Vinegar is a great cleaner and it shouldn't harm anything in your loop because it's natural. But I haven't tried it so someone who is more experienced might have a different take on this subject. If you don't have a drain tube this may also be a little difficult to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea I did that with my rads when I first bought them before installing into my case. No drain tube i'm afraid, was going to drain it from the bottom of the res.


----------



## aar0nsky

drains are for the win, atleast for an all internal setup


----------



## skaboy607

Especially as now I def need to to drain! Here is my problem: When I first installed everything and all the guts were hanging out my computer for leak testing, everytihng was very quiet and I was very happy with what I had achieved. I finished off putting everything into the case, moved the computer back up to uni and thought to myself hmmm, seems fairly noisy! But was busy with uni, temps were a little higher but I just thought that was the slight increase in room temp, and I just put up with it.

Took some of the components out tonight to mod the pump as we've been discussing and look what I found.










A massive kink! No wonder the pump was making more noise and the temps were a bit higher! So now I need some help on what to do with the tube to stop it doing it, I don't want to use kill coils so I kind of need another route for the tube. I do have some spare.

Also for the future, how/where would I add a drain port?


----------



## ramkatral

Use a 90 degree fitting so the tube doesn't have to bend. Or use anti link coils. As for drain line, put it anywhere at the bottom of the loop. Use a t fitting and a plug.


----------



## aar0nsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Especially as now I def need to to drain! Here is my problem: When I first installed everything and all the guts were hanging out my computer for leak testing, everytihng was very quiet and I was very happy with what I had achieved. I finished off putting everything into the case, moved the computer back up to uni and thought to myself hmmm, seems fairly noisy! But was busy with uni, temps were a little higher but I just thought that was the slight increase in room temp, and I just put up with it.
> Took some of the components out tonight to mod the pump as we've been discussing and look what I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A massive kink! No wonder the pump was making more noise and the temps were a bit higher! So now I need some help on what to do with the tube to stop it doing it, I don't want to use kill coils so I kind of need another route for the tube. I do have some spare.
> Also for the future, how/where would I add a drain port?


You can use a plastic t fitting and some clamps and for the bending using plastic 90 degree fittings worked out for me. I have pictures of mine in my build log if you would like to see an example of some serious routing haha, my drain is just a t fitting turned sideways and a plug in the end.


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow that sucks.

To be honest though it seriously coulda been worse. Could fried your CPU. Someone else here fried their SB CPU this past week.









~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You could replace your coolant with vinegar and run it for maybe 15 to 20 minutes, drain and rinse maybe? Vinegar is a great cleaner and it shouldn't harm anything in your loop because it's natural. But I haven't tried it so someone who is more experienced might have a different take on this subject. If you don't have a drain tube this may also be a little difficult to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Whilst I'm doing this pump mod, I mIght clean the loop out. Waters been in there 6 months. Is there a way to do it without taking rads and blocks out etc?


I don't recommend using vinegar if you have nickel plating in your loop, especially from EK, thats what I did this summer and I ran the loop for 15 minutes and had to do a emergency drain because the water turned blue and the nickel started flaking.

BUT... I use vinegar to wash copper and brass


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I don't recommend using vinegar if you have nickel plating in your loop, especially from EK, thats what I did this summer and I ran the loop for 15 minutes and had to do a emergency drain because the water turned blue and the nickel started flaking.
> BUT... I use vinegar to wash copper and brass


Thanks for the heads up. I decided against a clean in the end as it was taking too long to do what I initially wanted!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow that sucks.
> To be honest though it seriously coulda been worse. Could fried your CPU. Someone else here fried their SB CPU this past week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Could of been worse indeed.

It appears the kink was not the source of the noise at all. Noise seems to be the same, maybe it will get better with bleeding.

But it was a successful pump mod, hooked up to my fan controller and now running at 70% of its original, cant run it any lower than that otherwise it doesnt turn on at boot. Unfortunately though, it still makes a dull humming sound. Time to think of a new mounting system me thinks!

And I must purchase parts to fit a drain port next time I clean system out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You could replace your coolant with vinegar and run it for maybe 15 to 20 minutes, drain and rinse maybe? Vinegar is a great cleaner and it shouldn't harm anything in your loop because it's natural. But I haven't tried it so someone who is more experienced might have a different take on this subject. If you don't have a drain tube this may also be a little difficult to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Whilst I'm doing this pump mod, I mIght clean the loop out. Waters been in there 6 months. Is there a way to do it without taking rads and blocks out etc?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't recommend using vinegar if you have nickel plating in your loop, especially from EK, thats what I did this summer and I ran the loop for 15 minutes and had to do a emergency drain because the water turned blue and the nickel started flaking.
> 
> BUT... I use vinegar to wash copper and brass
Click to expand...

Ooh good to know, cause I have the Mainboard Block for my board and that's Nickel. Drat! So what would you recommend that would be okay for Nickel and Copper?

I doubt I'll have to clean my loop much because the tubing is white and there won't be any light getting to the CPU and Mainboard blocks enough to for growth and I'm going to be using Distilled w/kill coil.









~Ceadder


----------



## skaboy607

Anyone use Core Temp? The temps it reads are different to what Asus Prob is reading.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Anyone use Core Temp? The temps it reads are different to what Asus Prob is reading.


xore temp is more accurate than that asus pos software


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> xore temp is more accurate than that asus pos software


but there is difference of 10 deg C? Asus probe is higher. 45 under load and core temp is 33 under load.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ooh good to know, cause I have the Mainboard Block for my board and that's Nickel. Drat! So what would you recommend that would be okay for Nickel and Copper?
> I doubt I'll have to clean my loop much because the tubing is white and there won't be any light getting to the CPU and Mainboard blocks enough to for growth and I'm going to be using Distilled w/kill coil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


In that case, what I like to do is do a couple of drain with hot distilled water.

-I flush the old distilled water from my system
-I fill my loop with Hot distilled water (using on the oven to almost boil water)
-Let the loop run for 20 mintes
-Drain loop
-Repeat last steps until the loop is fully clean enough

-Fill loop with new ambient temperature distilled water.

Good Luck !

For copper blocks , the method I like... http://www.overclock.net/t/1076619/how-to-remove-stain-from-copper-blocks/0_30


----------



## skyn3t

Hey guys I'm working on a new system and i have some question about loop. here is the thing
pump/res >> rx360push-pull>> cpu>>vga>>rx240push>>pump/res, Pump is mpc655 config is SB 2500k and two GTX 570.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Hey guys I'm working on a new system and i have some question about loop. here is the thing
> pump/res >> rx360push-pull>> cpu>>vga>>rx240push>>pump/res, Pump is mpc655 config is SB 2500k and two GTX 570.


And your questions are?

I would put a Radiator between your CPU and your two graphic cards, even if its proven that it doesn't change anything. I still prefer to put radiators between blocks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ooh good to know, cause I have the Mainboard Block for my board and that's Nickel. Drat! So what would you recommend that would be okay for Nickel and Copper?
> I doubt I'll have to clean my loop much because the tubing is white and there won't be any light getting to the CPU and Mainboard blocks enough to for growth and I'm going to be using Distilled w/kill coil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In that case, what I like to do is do a couple of drain with hot distilled water.
> 
> -I flush the old distilled water from my system
> -I fill my loop with Hot distilled water (using on the oven to almost boil water)
> -Let the loop run for 20 mintes
> -Drain loop
> -Repeat last steps until the loop is fully clean enough
> 
> -Fill loop with new ambient temperature distilled water.
> 
> Good Luck !
> 
> For copper blocks , the method I like... http://www.overclock.net/t/1076619/how-to-remove-stain-from-copper-blocks/0_30
Click to expand...

Thanks bruh. +Rep for this helpful information.









Oh yeah for earlier conversation...

ASUS PC PROBE II FTW!!!









Works awsum if you set compatability mode for XP. Ever since I did that I've not had a single problem with it.









~Ceadder


----------



## rockcoeur

Maybe you could put the RX240 between the CPU and the VGA?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks bruh. +Rep for this helpful information.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah for earlier conversation...
> ASUS PC PROBE II FTW!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Works awsum if you set compatability mode for XP. Ever since I did that I've not had a single problem with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No Problem buddy


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> And your questions are?
> I would put a Radiator between your CPU and your two graphic cards, even if its proven that it doesn't change anything. I still prefer to put radiators between blocks.


*even if its proven that it doesn't change anything* do you thing it is waste or should i put the rad between the block's, i just like to have a good clean look and the same time good performance. if i do this * pump/res >> rx360push-pull>> cpu>>vga>>rx240push>>pump/res, Pump is mpc655 config is SB 2500k and two GTX 570. , the reason I'm ask is because i need to order some parts and i dont want to be missing things and get stuck on it.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Pump/Res -> CPU -> RX240 -> GPUs -> RX360 -> Pump/Res... that makes more sense to me.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Beautiful looking build there. Are you going to swap out the blue leds in the block for green?


no , the blue is staying since the cable sleeving is going to have blue in it


----------



## Ceadderman

I love the smell of MDPC-x in the morning.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> *even if its proven that it doesn't change anything* do you thing it is waste or should i put the rad between the block's, i just like to have a good clean look and the same time good performance. if i do this * pump/res >> rx360push-pull>> cpu>>vga>>rx240push>>pump/res, Pump is mpc655 config is SB 2500k and two GTX 570. , the reason I'm ask is because i need to order some parts and i dont want to be missing things and get stuck on it.


i think ive had my loop in every order possibe with rads in different places. Ive learned that it doesnt make a difference in the end. Sure you might see 1-2 degrees in difference when you first start stressing but after a lil while the temps end up the same.

Do the loop in the way that looks best, shortest lines and least amount of tubing. It will save you time and the hassle of trying to make things work just to have a block or a rad in a specific spot in the loop.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> *even if its proven that it doesn't change anything* do you thing it is waste or should i put the rad between the block's, i just like to have a good clean look and the same time good performance. if i do this * pump/res >> rx360push-pull>> cpu>>vga>>rx240push>>pump/res, Pump is mpc655 config is SB 2500k and two GTX 570. , the reason I'm ask is because i need to order some parts and i dont want to be missing things and get stuck on it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> i think ive had my loop in every order possibe with rads in different places. Ive learned that it doesnt make a difference in the end. Sure you might see 1-2 degrees in difference when you first start stressing but after a lil while the temps end up the same.
> *Do the loop in the way that looks best, shortest lines and least amount of tubing. It will save you time and the hassle of trying to make things work just to have a block or a rad in a specific spot in the loop*.


This


----------



## derickwm

Well now I'm slightly annoyed. I placed the order Wednesday night so it'd be shipped out Thursday morning and be either at my house when I got home Monday night or be there the next day... I wrote them back twice and my order still says awaiting customer response and now it wont be shipped out till Monday. I never complain about shipping but I really want to get this build going asap.


----------



## compmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You could replace your coolant with vinegar and run it for maybe 15 to 20 minutes, drain and rinse maybe? Vinegar is a great cleaner and it shouldn't harm anything in your loop because it's natural. But I haven't tried it so someone who is more experienced might have a different take on this subject. If you don't have a drain tube this may also be a little difficult to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I wouldn't put anything so acidic into a loop full of metal parts. Vinegar is what chem teachers use to quickly demonstrate the rusting of iron.
Because it is natural isn't a great rule of thumb, lemon juice is natural and used as a cleaner for certain applications but I sure wouldn't put it in my loop what with all the sugars and junk.


----------



## bobfig

UPDATE:

just finished moving into my R3. it bone stock at the moment but i plan on adding red led's and a smoked window.


----------



## lostsoldier

hi guy's

some very nice rig's here









im at the beginning of a big build and wondered what you thought of this shopping list,i know some of the compression fitting's are different and have updated the list,i wont be using the rads as ive got 3xthermochill pa120.3 rads now but everything on the list will stay.

the build will have 2x600 watt power supply's as well which are these http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-014-PP&groupid=701&catid=123&subcat=2179 i only want those power supply's as they are white and it's quite hard to find white psu in the uk.

build is going in a mountain mods case once funds are a bit better (2 moths max)


----------



## ramkatral

You have some compression fittings for 3/8 ID and some for 1/2 ID Might wanna straighten that our or you're gonna be pissed come build time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well now I'm slightly annoyed. I placed the order Wednesday night so it'd be shipped out Thursday morning and be either at my house when I got home Monday night or be there the next day... I wrote them back twice and my order still says awaiting customer response and now it wont be shipped out till Monday. I never complain about shipping but I really want to get this build going asap.


Don't stress too terribly. I've had orders arrive where I hadn't even received a confirmation from them. I have to think that when you paid the increase in shipping that it was dealt with at that time or they're backed up on orders due to the time of the year. More likely the former than the latter since they notified you of an increase in shipping. I would think it would have all had to been boxed up when someone went... "WHOOPS! This amount for shipping simply will not do."







Hope I'm right cause I wanna see all what you got goin on. What I have left for my loop is about $350 worth of components. I'll have spent $600 even not including shipping so I want to see what you got that made your loop cost more than my loop.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compmaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You could replace your coolant with vinegar and run it for maybe 15 to 20 minutes, drain and rinse maybe? Vinegar is a great cleaner and it shouldn't harm anything in your loop because it's natural. *But I haven't tried it so someone who is more experienced might have a different take on this subject.* If you don't have a drain tube this may also be a little difficult to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't put anything so acidic into a loop full of metal parts. Vinegar is what chem teachers use to quickly demonstrate the rusting of iron.
> Because it is natural isn't a great rule of thumb, lemon juice is natural and used as a cleaner for certain applications but I sure wouldn't put it in my loop what with all the sugars and junk.
Click to expand...

First bare metal is not the same as treated metal. I could take stainless steal and drop it in a bucket of vinegar and it would be no worse for wear.

Second, I did make sure to include that more experienced water coolers' may have a different take on my thought.

Third, Don't know if you're more experienced but I have worked with metals and know the difference between treated(plated, tempered, painted etc.) and bare metal. Just leaving it out can oxidize it from the water molecules in the atmosphere.









Fourth, note that I only said to do it for a *short* period of time. The vinegar is used to eat at any growth in the loop.

As KaRLiToS did mention however, you don't want to use vinegar with Nickel plated parts because it will start to wear away the nickel plate and while it's okay for Brass and Copper, it could damage Nickel plating so it's not recommended. Since he's experienced it first hand I would defer to his knowledge on the subject.

But thank you for following up with your knowledge too. Every little bit helps.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> You have some compression fittings for 3/8 ID and some for 1/2 ID Might wanna straighten that our or you're gonna be pissed come build time.


Yeah this. ramkatral beat me to it.









~Ceadder


----------



## lostsoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> You have some compression fittings for 3/8 ID and some for 1/2 ID Might wanna straighten that our or you're gonna be pissed come build time.


yes i know,it does say in my post that some of the fitting's are different and have updated my list.


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Just ordered some stuff this week looks like I'm in a new club.

- XSPC EX240 Radiator $45

- Primochill UV green 7/16th $16.00

- EK 250 Multioption Advanced $52

- XSPC Raystorm CPU/APU block Intel - $59.99(wanted both mounting just in case)

-XSPC Raystorm AMD mount -10$

- MCP 655 pump w/Speed control $79.99

- Phobya fill bottle 500ml - $5.95

- DD backup fill syringe $1.99

- 6 fittings just laying around

paid about $260 for all. thanks Jab - tech - Newegg - and Sidewinder! First custom loop for me and pretty happy with what I'm getting for the price at least its some top components. Will update in thread or section when complete in the next couple weeks!


----------



## skyn3t

Happy new Year
Mine new RiG








http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g451/skyn3t_ocn/BX5aDSpeakerStands/cristmasscout.jpg


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> no , the blue is staying since the cable sleeving is going to have blue in it


Gotcha! I like! I figured all green since the ram/mobo tray/trim on gpu were all matching.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Gotcha! I like! I figured all green since the ram/mobo tray/trim on gpu were all matching.


yeah there is going to be a touch of blues, i thought that single color would be a little boring


----------



## Kenetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Happy new Year
> Mine new RiG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g451/skyn3t_ocn/BX5aDSpeakerStands/cristmasscout.jpg


Awsome rig.... a shame that woman is sat in the way


----------



## kahboom

Please add me thx


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kahboom*
> 
> 
> Please add me thx


We have the same fan controller, heh. On another note... You REALLY need to do some dusting... all around that computer and the electronics around it, lmao.


----------



## skaboy607

I need a new radiator, recommendations to replace an RS360?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> I need a new radiator, recommendations to replace an RS360?


an RX360 or a Black Ice rad. I haven't done my research on rads in a while, since I got my system setup, I have kinda fallen off the WC scene a little.


----------



## skaboy607

I built a custom holder for the rad to can only fit rads around the 35mm width mark


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> I built a custom holder for the rad to can only fit rads around the 35mm width mark


Then it's probably XSPC EX360 if you use fast fans or MagiCool SLIM 360 Elegant if you use slow fans : http://www.overclock.net/t/1190800/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-16-rads-tested


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Then it's probably XSPC EX360 if you use fast fans or MagiCool SLIM 360 Elegant if you use slow fans : http://www.overclock.net/t/1190800/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-16-rads-tested


That confirms what I was thinking. I read that review but wanted to check with others. I have a 360 rad in a custom holder so measurements are strict and I run GT-AP15's at around 800 rpm for that so the slim seems the best. But.....will it be better than the RS360?

I also have a 240 rad that runs GT-AP15's at around 1250 rpm so the EX360 seems a pretty good bet but again better than the rs360?


----------



## ramkatral

I went with an EX240 for my second rad, and it outperforms my RS240 by quite a bit, so I'm sure it's the same in the 360 range as well.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> I went with an EX240 for my second rad, and it outperforms my RS240 by quite a bit, so I'm sure it's the same in the 360 range as well.


What speed do you run your fans at?


----------



## ramkatral

I have high speed yate loons that I throttle down to 1200 RPM because the rad performs well enough at those speeds that anything faster is just making noise. Though, I can crank it up when I need, just never needed.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> That confirms what I was thinking. I read that review but wanted to check with others. I have a 360 rad in a custom holder so measurements are strict and I run GT-AP15's at around 800 rpm for that so the slim seems the best. But.....will it be better than the RS360?
> I also have a 240 rad that runs GT-AP15's at around 1250 rpm so the EX360 seems a pretty good bet but again better than the rs360?


I would think that RS360 and EX360 have similar performance with slow fans but once you go over something like 1000 rpm RS360 is left behind.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> I need a new radiator, recommendations to replace an RS360?


You aren't going to gain much by going w/ a thicker radiator. Maybe 1-2C depending on what fans you are currently using. You'd be better off spending $35 on some shrouds for the fans. Will make a bigger difference when it comes to performance.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> I would think that RS360 and EX360 have similar performance with slow fans but once you go over something like 1000 rpm RS360 is left behind.


hmmm ok so what about the magicool slim with sub 1000 rpm fans compared to rs360?


----------



## ramkatral

Again, with the same speed fans, there's a pretty decent difference between my RS and EX. Why don't people listen to someone who is sharing first hand experience?


----------



## skaboy607

whooaaa chill out nip. not doubting you and i will probably be getting a ex240 based on your input so thank you. but my 360 will be running 600-800 rpm fans and as the review says, the ex series is not great for that


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> I went with an EX240 for my second rad, and it outperforms my RS240 by quite a bit, so I'm sure it's the same in the 360 range as well.


Glad to hear just ordered the ex240 for cpu cooling only to start things off! =)


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> hmmm ok so what about the magicool slim with sub 1000 rpm fans compared to rs360?


In all reviews I have seen RS360 has always been a little bit behind Swiftech MCR320 so I'd guess the difference at slow speeds is about same than between Magicool and Swiftech in that review.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> In all reviews I have seen RS360 has always been a little bit behind Swiftech MCR320 so I'd guess the difference at slow speeds is about same than between Magicool and Swiftech in that review.


So we putting MCR320 as better at slow fan speeds than the magicool and rs series which are on par


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> hmmm ok so what about the magicool slim with sub 1000 rpm fans compared to rs360?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> whooaaa chill out nip. not doubting you and i will probably be getting a ex240 based on your input so thank you. but my 360 will be running 600-800 rpm fans and as the review says, the ex series is not great for that


I was talking about the guy who claimed the performance is similar with slow fans.









I get a recordable 4-5C difference between the RS240 and the EX240 at 1200 RPMS. That's a pretty damn big difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiefpuff420*
> 
> Glad to hear just ordered the ex240 for cpu cooling only to start things off! =)


You won't be disappointed, I assure you. Especially for CPU only. I wouldn't stick with just the EX240 for more than the CPU, though. I used an RS240 to cool CPU only. Once I ditched the kit and got my Apogee and EK GPU block, I salvaged the old RS240 and added an EX240 for support. On my current build (minus the i7, since I am working on the RMA to get it replaced, so I have an i3 2120 standing in for the time being), I get 41C load average on my CPU (i3s are cold chips) and 46C load average on my 6970 with two monitors and OC'd at 1010 / 1475 @ 1.26v. So there's you some numbers to look at.

Also minus the OCZ Vertex 3... It failed on me, so I replaced it with a Crucial M4 and never changed my rig, though that has nothing to do with cooling...


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> So we putting MCR320 as better at slow fan speeds than the magicool and rs series which are on par


I meant more like RS360 and MCR320 are pretty much on par.


----------



## johnpaul

hey guys how is this setup?
-swiftech mcp655
-magicool limited edition monsta 420/360 rad
-rasa cpu block
-1/2 inch t line fitting (so no resivour)
-clear promochill tubbing
-3 yate loon 120mm led fans 1600rpm
-4 1/2in id fitings


----------



## vincent198

Hey,

I'm Vincent from holland and this is my first wc rig, it is totally built by me with a very very low budget. Everything from the wc was purchased second hand exept tube res and tubes.



















Here is my rig specs:

I7 [email protected] 4.2 ghz
Xfx gtx 285 black edition
Corsair dominator 4gb ddr3 1600mhz
Fractical design define xl
2x samsung sprintpoint 1tb
Corsair builder v2 500w

And the wc:

Eheim 1046 with pump adapters
alphacool 250mm tube res
xspc delta v2 cpu block
ek wb gtx 285 wc block
120mm thermaltake rad
240mm (noname) rad

The wc was about 120 euro, i think very cheap for a quite big wc setup.


----------



## Angrybutcher

FrankenPump is alive! More in my build log


----------



## Bouf0010

niiiiice, turned out great!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> FrankenPump is alive! More in my build log


I miss my old HK gpu blocks









Looking great Angry


----------



## ramkatral

Man, that's clean Angrybutcher. Looks great!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I miss my old HK gpu blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking great Angry


Thank you sir! I'm glad they finally released (or I finally found) the new style 2-slot SLI block. This one looks so much better, as well as 4 holes, vs the old flat style with only top holes.


----------



## Bouf0010

Got the new card with the block from EK and some LEDs from NZXT. Still have to top off the res and put in the psu cover but so far so good i think.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Man your build looks awsome, can you post picture of your rig under daylight? I want to see how you twisted your GPU power wires together.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Man your build looks awsome, can you post picture of your rig under daylight? I want to see how you twisted your GPU power wires together.


thanks! yeah no problem, ill have to take them tomorrow though, no enough lighting in the room im in.

EDIT* here a quick pic with the flash


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> I was talking about the guy who claimed the performance is similar with slow fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get a recordable 4-5C difference between the RS240 and the EX240 at 1200 RPMS. That's a pretty damn big difference.
> You won't be disappointed, I assure you. Especially for CPU only. I wouldn't stick with just the EX240 for more than the CPU, though. I used an RS240 to cool CPU only. Once I ditched the kit and got my Apogee and EK GPU block, I salvaged the old RS240 and added an EX240 for support. On my current build (minus the i7, since I am working on the RMA to get it replaced, so I have an i3 2120 standing in for the time being), I get 41C load average on my CPU (i3s are cold chips) and 46C load average on my 6970 with two monitors and OC'd at 1010 / 1475 @ 1.26v. So there's you some numbers to look at.
> Also minus the OCZ Vertex 3... It failed on me, so I replaced it with a Crucial M4 and never changed my rig, though that has nothing to do with cooling...


Hahaha yeah if i add in some video card cooling in the future ill put in a beefy 360 or something but for now i can't wait to see how it turns out will let ya'll know


----------



## skyn3t

hey guys , anyone know where i can get a u-channel grommet the one that has some little cut's around tto make some nice curvers like this one here on this vid below, Í had modded my 800D to fit 240 rad, i just don't want to guess and got the wrong parts , because i already had too much disaster on my current build now. and i know that i can go to mnpctech U-channel and get that one , but you know I'm kinda particular with my things. thanks in advance
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc6Cr7G4S6E&feature=relmfu


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Got the new card with the block from EK and some LEDs from NZXT. Still have to top off the res and put in the psu cover but so far so good i think.


nice riG man , love the ReS its going to be my next reS soonn...


----------



## jackofhearts495

Hey Bouf, did you use these?

I was thinking about getting em for my rig, to border my side panel window. How are they?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Hey Bouf, did you use these?
> I was thinking about getting em for my rig, to border my side panel window. How are they?


yeah thats exactly what i got!

i think they are fantastic and would highly recommend them. They were super easy to install and the 3 brightness settings are kinda nice in case you have a low light room or a brightly lit room


----------



## jackofhearts495

woot, thanks. Can't wait to get my side panel machined and windowed. Those lights are gonna be perfect... I love the +1 PCI slot that cases (like mine) have now for controllers. It'll be perfect.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> FrankenPump is alive!


Those boards are the best thing to have come out for these pumps. I have a first gen toshiba controlled one modded with a potentiometer for my CPU loop.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*
> 
> Those boards are the best thing to have come out for these pumps. I have a first gen toshiba controlled one modded with a potentiometer for my CPU loop.


I have a second board for my second pump as well, but in no real hurry to tackle that project again lol. I'll do it eventually


----------



## tippy25

Got a quick question about controllers. Which one of these controllers would be best for what I have now? I have 2 pumps (18W each) and 4 fans (14.4W total) that I'd like to be able to control. The fans are on a 1-4 splitter, which is necessary as I want to keep all 4 fans at the same rpm. Check the build log if you want specifics.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> Got a quick question about controllers. Which one of these controllers would be best for what I have now? I have 2 pumps (18W each) and 4 fans (14.4W total) that I'd like to be able to control. The fans are on a 1-4 splitter, which is necessary as I want to keep all 4 fans at the same rpm. Check the build log if you want specifics.


Well you only need 3 channels so based on that any of them but I would get 30W per channel to handle the startup voltage which is more. Depending on what you have planned for the future will affect whether you get 5 or 6 channels. Sunbeam are good controllers though.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> but there is difference of 10 deg C? Asus probe is higher. 45 under load and core temp is 33 under load.


I know this is from 3 days ago, but i believe that Asus Probe reads the socket temp. Not the CPU core temp.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> I know this is from 3 days ago, but i believe that Asus Probe reads the socket temp. Not the CPU core temp.


Don't worry lol, i'm still undecided as to which program to use. When AMD quotes a max safe operating temp, is that core or socket?


----------



## ramkatral

Core


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Core


Well in that case I can bump up my overclock! PC probe reads 46 degC under load but core is 33 degC. Plenty of room for some more voltage.


----------



## Boyboyd

Yep, that's core.

Personally I just realtemp. But coretemp / HWmonitor are both good too.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Yep, that's core.
> Personally I just realtemp. But coretemp / HWmonitor are both good too.


I like the look of real temp but it's no good for AMD CPU's.


----------



## skaboy607

On another note, reduced my pump noise substantially by suspending it in the air using one of the tubes rather than mounting on a foam pad on the floor of the case. That and being able to reduce RPM now as it is hooked up to a controller has reduced my case noise to barely a whisper. Perfect.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> Got a quick question about controllers. Which one of these controllers would be best for what I have now? I have 2 pumps (18W each) and 4 fans (14.4W total) that I'd like to be able to control. The fans are on a 1-4 splitter, which is necessary as I want to keep all 4 fans at the same rpm. Check the build log if you want specifics.


That RheoSmart 6 should do an excellent job for you. I have the RheoSmart 3 and it's very very good. 30w per channel so you can gang fans on single channel and plug your pumps into single channels. But if you only have to fill 3 channels I would rec the RheoSmart 3 which is $20 including the shipping.









~Ceadder


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

I have the rheosmart 6 and I like it alot, I am not using the PWM control feature though...

Also, an update on my loop, I changed the GPU's to be in parallel and reran some of the tubing to make it a little cleaner. I noticed that my GPUs still run pretty close to the same, maybe 1-2* cooler on each (within margin of error) but I still have GPU 1 running around 2-4* warmer. My guess is its just a flow anomaly of some kind... My CPU runs probably 5-7* cooler though. Also notice that the flow going back into the reservoir is alot higher!


----------



## lsxtrkiller

Xspc Rasa 750 rs240 kit on my i7 2600k oc to 4.5ghz, gtx 560 ti stable at 1ghz core speed max load temps (cpu: 46c, gpu: 56c) room temp: 21c.
Already have plans to replace the rad fans with some slimmer maybe ap15's and move it up so its not covering part of the ram and mobo and block, and add a drain line as well, also my kit came with swiftech coolant additive that I want to drain out and replace the tubing with some uv blue tubing and just run a kill coil.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r*
> 
> I have the rheosmart 6 and I like it alot, I am not using the PWM control feature though...
> Also, an update on my loop, I changed the GPU's to be in parallel and reran some of the tubing to make it a little cleaner. I noticed that my GPUs still run pretty close to the same, maybe 1-2* cooler on each (within margin of error) but I still have GPU 1 running around 2-4* warmer. My guess is its just a flow anomaly of some kind... My CPU runs probably 5-7* cooler though. Also notice that the flow going back into the reservoir is alot higher!
> 
> *SNIP*


That's good news, I'll bare that in mind for when I get my SLI setup running. Have you got a temp sensor on the inlet to the res then?


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

I dont have any temp sensors inside the loop, all my readings are from embedded die thermos (coretemp for CPU and gpuz/TRIXX for GPU readings)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That RheoSmart 6 should do an excellent job for you. I have the RheoSmart 3 and it's very very good. 30w per channel so you can gang fans on single channel and plug your pumps into single channels. But if you only have to fill 3 channels I would rec the RheoSmart 3 which is $20 including the shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I would love to rock the RheoSmart 3, but it's for a 3.5" bay, and I don't have any external 3.5" bays. If it comes w/ an adapter to fit in a 5.25" bay, it wasn't shown in any of the pictures I've seen. I'm probably going to go w/ the RheoSmart 6.


----------



## Makeo

Well here is my lil machine







rx120 rasa kit in my FT 02! (cell pix FTL







)
Don't mind the wires, still need to do more cable management


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makeo*
> 
> Well here is my lil machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rx120 rasa kit in my FT 02! (cell pix FTL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Don't mind the wires, still need to do more cable management


Looks good. Would look better if that 570 had a water block as well


----------



## antonr90

At last I've been able to pick up an M8


----------



## Makeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Looks good. Would look better if that 570 had a water block as well


Yep, once i saw how much my temps went down on my cpu, i face palmed and was like "should of got a bigger rad/pump/ and gpu block too







"

but theres always my b-day comming up







the gf will def be getting hints at it


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hey Guys, I want to change my cpu cooler to another one, I currently have the Heatkiller 3.0 and want a new one, which one should I buy. Price doesn't matter. Im hesitating between the raystorm and the koolance 370


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Looks good. Would look better if that 570 had a water block as well


This + a 3x180mm radiator at the bottom.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hey Guys, I want to change my cpu cooler to another one, I currently have the Heatkiller 3.0 and want a new one, which one should I buy. Price doesn't matter. Im hesitating between the raystorm and the koolance 370


either of those is great. Another option is the kryos .925 if money really isn't an option.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> either of those is great. Another option is the kryos .925 if money really isn't an option.


At this point it is, hahaha







289$ thats a lot of money for a CPU block

Thanks for the input though


----------



## skyn3t

can you guys tell a little about this controller G-VANS 30W - 4 Channel Aluminum Rheobus w/ Multi Color Backlit LED - Version 2 - Black (FC-5V2) w/ Brighter Display! becausei bought Lamptron FC5 v2 from performance-pcs.com. and the send me G-Vans wanna be.*&^%$#@!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> can you guys tell a little about this controller G-VANS 30W - 4 Channel Aluminum Rheobus w/ Multi Color Backlit LED - Version 2 - Black (FC-5V2) w/ Brighter Display! becausei bought Lamptron FC5 v2 from performance-pcs.com. and the send me G-Vans wanna be.*&^%$#@!


What did PPCs say about it?


----------



## ramkatral

Well, an update. Intel is replacing the i7 that failed to throttle itself when my pump died the other night. In the meantime, I stuck a 2500k in here. I dunno if I even wanna go back to the 2600k because I never really used the hyperthreading since I just game. May sell it to someone since it will be brand new, in box, with factory seal.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> What did PPCs say about it?


I'm waiting for his response.


----------



## ramkatral

I expect PPCs to do what they pretty much always do in this situation. Blame the customer.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> I expect PPCs to do what they pretty much always do in this situation. Blame the customer.


I wont let go that easy, that's for sure. like this week i just put on his pocket almost $200 in parts. including rx240 tygon fan controller and some bitspower fillport.


----------



## ramkatral

If he tries to rip you off, let us know. Also, don't hesitate to let us know if he treats you right. I have mixed emotions about PPC. Never done me wrong personally, but I HAVE seen them do other people horribly.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> If he tries to rip you off, let us know. Also, don't hesitate to let us know if he treats you right. I have mixed emotions about PPC. Never done me wrong personally, but I HAVE seen them do other people horribly.


I will for sure


----------



## wermad

God, waiting is the hardest part









Going with a "smaller" build this time around. Which includes smaller tube, fittings, rads, etc


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> God, waiting is the hardest part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with a "smaller" build this time around. Which includes smaller tube, fittings, rads, etc


we are in the same boat but my project is big than your's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> God, waiting is the hardest part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with a "smaller" build this time around. Which includes smaller tube, fittings, rads, etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we are in the same boat but my project is big than your's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *and will take over the world!*
Click to expand...









fixed

I do like the challenge of a small case. The 690 ii is a great little case but I'm still trying to get used to its smallness. Even my wife was shocked to see how small it is after I had owned several large cases. The RX240 has already forced me to get an even smaller psu


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## gumbie

Here's some more recent pics of my build!

Enjoy


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I will for sure


Yeah, if it gets out of hand, please report back. I hope they do right by you, they have a really good selection and I have always had good service, but then again I have never gotten a defective part or wrong part...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antonr90*
> 
> *At last I've been able to pick up an M8*


Hope you trained really well, bent ur knees and didn't give yourself a hernia before and while attempting that feat.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> either of those is great. Another option is the kryos .925 if money really isn't an option.
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is, hahaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 289$ thats a lot of money for a CPU block
> 
> Thanks for the input though
Click to expand...

$290?!? What is it made of, solid gold?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I will for sure
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, if it gets out of hand, please report back. I hope they do right by you, they have a really good selection and I have always had good service, but then again I have never gotten a defective part or wrong part...
Click to expand...

I too would like to know so I can be accused of being their shill again.









Actually I'm hoping they take care of you appropriately. They didn't monkey around when I had an issue so I would like to think that some problems just come around once in awhile or so.









~Ceadder


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> $290?!? What is it made of, solid gold?


Actually, solid silver...as that is the best heat conductor for the money.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Actually, solid silver...as that is the best heat conductor for the money.


Exactly. There's a noticeable difference between copper and silver. I had a custom base made for my EK supreme hf from silver as well and it blows the pants off of my copper version. 2 out of the 3 seats I did with it using mx4 yielded better temps by ~2c at load. One seat was just simply horrendous for some reason. Whenever I pull it off again I'll be sure to post pics in my log.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r*
> 
> Yeah, if it gets out of hand, please report back. I hope they do right by you, they have a really good selection and I have always had good service, but then again I have never gotten a defective part or wrong part...


Quote:


> *Email from : Performance-PCs.com*
> The product is exactly the same and so all our parts are changing over from Lamptron to G-Vans. The display should have a think plastic color film you need to remove that covers the plexi. You must not have removed this.
> Best Regards,


i can't believe that he said that.


----------



## ramkatral

LMAO, I knew it. Performance-PCs screws over another customer.


----------



## kamikaze_

lmao, what dog$#&t.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> i can't believe that he said that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> LMAO, I knew it. Performance-PCs screws over another customer.


It does appear they are exactly the same. Both Performance-PCS and FrozenCPU have switched. I'm not finding much info on the web, but my guess is they switched product names? Maybe our Lamptron vendor forum could shed some light?


----------



## ramkatral

Yes, but their website should reflect that change before just sending it.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Yes, but their website should reflect that change before just sending it.


This is true!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You bought stuff from those mugs???

Im in the UK, and even i know they are mugs....


----------



## Angrybutcher

I just opened a new thread in the Lamptron forum here on OCN. Let's see if anyone responds, though I don't think they look at it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Yes, but their website should reflect that change before just sending it.


If this is a manufacturer issue and not the vendor, I'm not sure notifying anybody would make a difference.

Also having been in their shoes with the company I worked for it's not uncommon for parts to get re-carded or boxed reflecting the change and then running the stock on your shelves out until there are no more of that particular brand. Then the new stuff takes its place.

I admit that it seems a little hinky but if it's the manufacturer in this business, you would think that people would know this already or at least the manufacturer notifies the review bloggers so that everyone is up to speed.

It could be their site is behind due to whoever handles their IT stuff and whether they handle more than just PPC's website which leads to backlog. Seeing as they have TONS of Lamptron offerings I would imagine this is already being handled just slow to make the update.

If not interested in the current controller find one that you do like of similar value and suggest a swap.









It does suck though.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ramkatral

It frankly doesn't matter what the company thinks matters or not. If I click 'buy' on an item, I expect to get THAT item, not 'the item it's being replaced with'. That is piss poor business, and if you run a business like that, I will NOT buy from you. You either notify me of the change and ask me if I want to continue with the purchase or have my money refunded. You don't just take it upon yourself to do with my money as you please.


----------



## kamikaze_

Amazon.com 4 life.


----------



## Juggalo23451




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Amazon.com 4 life.


You can't even get half of what PPCs' stocks at Amazon. GLWT.









~Ceadder


----------



## ramkatral

But you can at FrozenCPU and Jab-tech


----------



## wermad

I love and hate amazon. Sometimes they ship your items quickly, sometimes it takes them a few days or a week to get it out the door. Most of the water specialty shops get your stuff out asap but its bias to compare since these are small business as opposed to the giant amazon.

Still, amazon has the best pricing for tube (primochill) and I picked up some R4 fans on special. Free shipping is nice too but I hate the delay.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

There's a wonderful thing called a credit card that you paid with. Go online and press dispute for misrepresentation of product. I did this with an unnamed watercooling e-tailer after placing a $1400 order. They sent me a regular bitspower compression instead of a rotary compression. They said that I was wrong and they sent the correct one. I clicked dispute for misrepresentation of product and viola I get an apology call with the new one on the way with no cost to me. I even got to keep the non rotary


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> There's a wonderful thing called a credit card that you paid with. Go online and press dispute for misrepresentation of product. I did this with an unnamed watercooling e-tailer after placing a $1400 order. They sent me a regular bitspower compression instead of a rotary compression. They said that I was wrong and they sent the correct one. I clicked dispute for misrepresentation of product and viola I get an apology call with the new one on the way with no cost to me. I even got to keep the non rotary


That's the great thing about CC companies, if you really need to as a last resort you can do a charge back.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> There's a wonderful thing called a credit card that you paid with. Go online and press dispute for misrepresentation of product. I did this with an unnamed watercooling e-tailer after placing a $1400 order. They sent me a regular bitspower compression instead of a rotary compression. They said that I was wrong and they sent the correct one. I clicked dispute for misrepresentation of product and viola I get an apology call with the new one on the way with no cost to me. I even got to keep the non rotary


Why is it that PPCs always blames the customer and never themselves, are they incapable of making mistakes?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Why is it that PPCs always blames the customer and never themselves, are they incapable of making mistakes?


Poor business ethics? I've never had a problem with PPCs, although I've never ordered a part I wanted to return or received a defective piece of computer equipment in my life. *knocks on wooden desk* Only had to RMA a gtx 480 due to water dmg and 24/7 folding abuse for over a year.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> I just opened a new thread in the Lamptron forum here on OCN. Let's see if anyone responds, though I don't think they look at it.


No guys i had a little bit time to show you guys this, take a look and tell me what Tha F* you think about this , pay attention on those photos.


----------



## ramkatral

Missing a screw? LMAO


----------



## Bouf0010

??? whats with the green wire - looks like they messed up the pcb and said f-it, lets just solder in a wire! maybe they wont notice cause its green









edit* nice catch on the missing screw lol


----------



## kamikaze_

^^^


----------



## derickwm

Is there any word on other 7970 blocks besides from EK & Aquacomputer?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> No guys i had a little bit time to show you guys this, take a look and tell me what Tha F* you think about this , pay attention on those photos.


Interesting. Now you have me wondering about the PCB of my "official" FC-5v2.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

So this is what happened when MountainDewCooled Motherboard died.
I had to build my upcoming mATX build out of the parts

Not bad for all the wrong parts IMO


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Is there any word on other 7970 blocks besides from EK & Aquacomputer?


Hopefully Koolance will have some blocks shown shortly. Although I think I'll go w/ EK as long as the acrylic version doesn't have those silly racing stripes.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Missing a screw? LMAO


good eye i did not notice he missing screw!!!!! LMAO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> ??? whats with the green wire - looks like they messed up the pcb and said f-it, lets just solder in a wire! maybe they wont notice cause its green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit* nice catch on the missing screw lol


ROLF
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Interesting. Now you have me wondering about the PCB of my "official" FC-5v2.


check it ")

yep, that what they said F-IT. and me too.


----------



## ramkatral

Haha, I am a screw/washer ninja. I always look for screws in the right place, and washers where they should be. Dunno why. I am OCD as hell. I can't do like some guys do and not always use every screw, nut, washer, etc that is supposed to be in place.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> So this is what happened when MountainDewCooled Motherboard died.
> I had to build my upcoming mATX build out of the parts
> Not bad for all the wrong parts IMO


nice , but one thing i think you need to change, is the SSD right on the PSU, dun like it







( too hot )
try it take a look that's my old RiG


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> check it ")
> yep, that what they said F-IT. and me too.


Well, here's mine. Appears to be a completely different PCB. My only thoughts are either yours is the first version modified by a different company (note the DIY on the box), or a complete knock-off.
On another note, ignore my circus of fan cables. It will be fixed soon enough








The picture is full resolution, cropped. If you want to view it, you'll need to click the picture below, then right click what opens and select View Image.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

I can vouch for angry and say that is indeed the legit PCB for the v2


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> I can vouch for angry and say that is indeed the legit PCB for the v2


His or mine?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Well, here's mine. Appears to be a completely different PCB. My only thoughts are either yours is the first version modified by a different company (note the DIY on the box), or a complete knock-off.
> On another note, ignore my circus of fan cables. It will be fixed soon enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture is full resolution, cropped. If you want to view it, you'll need to click the picture below, then right click what opens and select View Image.
> http://cdn.overclock.net/8/85/600x400px-LL-85924c77_77-FC5v2pcb.jpeg


you just nailed * this is the complete knock-off * thanks to clear this up take your time to take a pic and upload it. +1 REP.

*PPCS just replied my email with RMA form and i fill the out and let they know about they knock-off G-van'scrap and i sent the pics here
I know my writing is not perfect, but here we go.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> His or mine?


The one you just pictured above my post.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> I can vouch for angry and say that is indeed the legit PCB for the v2


^%$$%$#%^%#$%^&*([email protected]#$%^&*()_)(*&^%$#@#$%^&*()(*&^%$#$%^&*()(*&^%$#@#$%^&*()(*&^%$#$%^&*()(*&^%$#$%^&*()_)(*&^%$#@#$%^&*(&^%$#$%^&*


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> mine or his ?


Haha the one that angry pictured next to his own computer with the fans attached to it and the molex connector on the left side.


----------



## skyn3t

Now where should i get mine Lamptron-FC5 v2 , Frozen-CPU and SideWinder and Jab-teck has been good with me in WC parts and other stuff, so never got any Electronics with them, so where should i buy mine now.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> ^%$$%$#%^%#$%^&*([email protected]#$%^&*()_)(*&^%$#@#$%^&*()(*&^%$#$%^&*()(*&^%$#@#$%^&*()(*&^%$#$%^&*()(*&^%$#$%^&*()_)(*&^%$#@#$%^&*(&^%$#$%^&*


hehe, Verify with them that they have the Lamptron FC5v2 in this box. If not, check with FrozenCPU. They still have both the Lamptron and G-DIYcrap on their site and would hate to see this problem a second time.


----------



## ramkatral

I loves frozencpu whole bunches.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Bought my FC5 v2 from FrozenCPU


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Bought my FC5 v2 from FrozenCPU


As did I, but also look at this


----------



## skyn3t

I just ordered this with FrozenCPU, and i still need some more parts and GOD...................... I'm really Pissed about this G-van'scrap.


----------



## Systemlord

Whether it's a knockoff or not the customer did not receive what he ordered, a Lamptron fan controller. False advertising on PPCS, it would be criminal to charge a restocking fee! Now if there was a note in the listing that specified a different vender or manufacture had taken over, things might be different!

*EDIT:*

I don't remember the Lamptron FC-5 V2 costing $74.99, when Lamptron first came out with the FC-5 V2 it was more like $59.99 plus or minus a few dollars. Am I tripping or am I correct?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> As did I, but also look at this


Oh wow that's really misleading, I'm sure some people bought it and didn't realize.

They should at least change the picture or something.

Seems like a modded fan controller from a trusted person (or so it looks like) that took feedback from others.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I just ordered this with FrozenCPU, and i still need some more parts and GOD...................... I'm really Pissed about this G-van'scrap.


If PPCS doesn't let you return the item/give your money back file a charge back with your credit card company for selling a misleading product. Shouldn't let them get away with this at all.

Also call Frozen as angry said to make sure they have the legit Lamptron one and not the other.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Whether it's a knockoff or not the customer did not receive what he ordered, a Lamptron fan controller. False advertising on PPCS, it would be criminal to charge a restocking fee! Now if there was a note in the listing that specified a different vender or manufacture had taken over, things might be different!


if they charge the restocking fee I'll go through Paypal and open a case.







i don't care if this take a month or two, i just want my full refund.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> if they charge the restocking fee I'll go through Paypal and open a case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i don't care if this take a month or two, i just want my full refund.


Can you find the e-mail from PPCS, there should be a link that says "See Detailed Invoice" click that and you might have to login to the site.

After that it should take you to the invoice, highlight the fan controller, click it, and it should take you the item itself.

Link that back if you could just to make sure it was the right one and not the knockoff that you added to your cart.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

EDIT


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

I fail at triple posting


----------



## Angrybutcher

Holy-triple-post batman!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> I fail at triple posting


I've got one on you, I had a quad post about a month ago!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Holy-triple-post batman!


For some reason I thought the quote button was the edit button


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> For some reason I thought the quote button was the edit button


poWned







j/k


----------



## wermad




----------



## skyn3t

I think they going to turn GREEN like Bruce Banner

rolf


----------



## wermad

Wow, what a reply. They really need some better workers that know what customer service is. I'm hoping they don't screw-up my recent order.


----------



## solsamurai

They've been good with me so far...


----------



## Angrybutcher

lol the point isn't an open box, it's an obvious copy or a ghetto rigged V1 to V2 "upgrade". It's likely that way from the "factory" (kitchen table) and likely bought a truck load of V1 to do this with and make a quick buck. Point is, you didn't order the G-Crap, you ordered a Lamptron!


----------



## Scorpion49

I figured I would put this int his thread since it gets a ton of views. Just a heads up to anyone looking at an XSPC block for their GTX 580; I carefully inspect from all sides when I put these together to make sure all the pads stayed in place, and I noticed that the gray pads required of these components don't contact the block (pads selected following the instructions).

Photobucket editor seems to be down right now and I forgot to circle it before I loaded it up, but its directly above my thumb and you can see the air gap with all of the screws tightened all the way. Sorry, I don't know the name of it. The solution was to use the blue pad, however my other XPSC block doesn't do this and works fine with the gray pad. Just something to check if you are using one of these or are buying one.










EDIT: goes here


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Second rig


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> I just opened a new thread in the Lamptron forum here on OCN. Let's see if anyone responds, though I don't think they look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> No guys i had a little bit time to show you guys this, take a look and tell me what Tha F* you think about this , pay attention on those photos.
Click to expand...











Is it me or does that wire look burnt on the right hand portion or is that just sharpie or some other marking?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Bought my FC5 v2 from FrozenCPU
> 
> 
> 
> As did I, but also look at this
Click to expand...

If this is what has become of Lamptron I won't even order the CCL converter I've had my eye on for awhile.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> lol the point isn't an open box, it's an obvious copy or a ghetto rigged V1 to V2 "upgrade". It's likely that way from the "factory" (kitchen table) and likely bought a truck load of V1 to do this with and make a quick buck. Point is, you didn't order the G-Crap, you ordered a Lamptron!


If you look at the pics in that link you posted previously that IS Lamptron. Those pics on the link are all Stock photos from their Adverts and on their boxes.









Now I am convinced that the only thing PPCs' has done wrong (in this instance) is being too stuck in protecting their own *ass*ets.

The thing is nobody is gonna blame Lamptron when they really ought to. I'm pretty sure this is a product changeover for a company that either sold itself off, or was taken over by some entity that woke up one morning and said "Hey! I can do that too and I could make a lot of money doing it!"









When in reality all they do is this...










Pissing off the customers of the vendors they supply that junk to.

Not that PPCs' is entirely innocent here but knowing what I know about in store product changes for defunct companies and the companies that replace them it's always the store that is gonna get looked at as though they intentionally defrauded the customer.

No more Lamptron for this guy I can tell you that much. At least not until it's shown that Lamptron is just as screwed over as Performance is here. Man that is some ugly technology right there.









Seriously though, take a look at the photos on Frozens link for that Gash Trash and compare them to the Photos at PPCs' for the Lamptron Controller and tell me if you see any real difference between the two.









~Ceadder


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Temporary gpu setup. Moved gpus over from an old rig for a lan since waiting on 7970s. Rotary coming as well to replace that heinous barb.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> They've been good with me so far...


Last order came without a hitch. But you never know and thus must always be weary of their cheeky shenanigans.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you look at the pics in that link you posted previously that IS Lamptron. Those pics on the link are all Stock photos from their Adverts and on their boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Stock photos are exactly the point. Both FrozenCPU and Performance-PCS are using the stock photo of the Lamptron FC5v2 on the G-VAN FC5. It may be a rebranded partnership. It may be a FC5v1 with a simple fix of the brightness that the v2 has, under a different company. It may be an off-shoot company of Lamptron.

Performance-PCS is fully at fault here due to them sending him a G-VAN box, rather than Lamptron. They are not liable for the shoddy work therein. Performance-PCS has BOTH the Lamptron AND G-VAN for sale. He ordered the Lamptron and received the G-VAN. If they no longer had stock of the Lamptron, they should have informed him after he ordered, rather than sending him a different brand, calling it the same.

I know you personally have not had issues with Performance-PCS, nor have I, but open your eyes man!


----------



## The Muffin Man

My Corsiar 700d with smoked acrylic side panel


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> My Corsiar 700d with smoked acrylic side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> *snip*


that is beautiful dude. and a brilliant idea. i may just use this idea on my 800d if you dont mind







where'd you get the acrylic?


----------



## The Muffin Man

thanks man, got the acrylic from a local supplier, just sent them an email and was quoted $20 for the pre cut piece = win







, want to get more UV lights/leds tho


----------



## cyberbeat

How is it attached to the case?


----------



## The Muffin Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*
> 
> How is it attached to the case?


Heh.... well originally I used velcro but that wasnt strong enough, but I havnt really been bothered to try anything else......... Was thinknig of screwing it in but it would ruin the entire effect








Anyone used that crazy strong 3m double sided tape?
Or does anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## cyberbeat

Have you though about using the stock mounting, and using double sided tape to stick the acrylic to that?


----------



## The Muffin Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*
> 
> Have you though about using the stock mounting, and using double sided tape to stick the acrylic to that?


How could you do that? i'd like to keep the spare panel in original condition and not hack it up if thats how you would get the original mounting system thing from it.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> Heh.... well originally I used velcro but that wasnt strong enough, but I havnt really been bothered to try anything else......... Was thinknig of screwing it in but it would ruin the entire effect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone used that crazy strong 3m double sided tape?
> Or does anyone have any suggestions?


http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Products-Double-Sided-Industrial-Industrial-strength/dp/B004E2OIS0


----------



## wermad

I have a local supplier of acrylic but I suck at cutting it


----------



## cyberbeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> How could you do that? i'd like to keep the spare panel in original condition and not hack it up if thats how you would get the original mounting system thing from it.


Yea i was suggesting remove the locking mech from the original door, and transfer it over to the new panel


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*
> 
> Yea i was suggesting remove the locking mech from the original door, and transfer it over to the new panel


removing the locking slide bar from inside the case is easy and it'll clean up the inside only a little but it's the little things that count imo.

i say just get some of that tape i link'd you and make some right angle cuts with it, place it on the corners of the case, and prepare to have your mind blown with bombproof tape. that 4010 tape is incredible.


----------



## The Muffin Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*
> 
> Yea i was suggesting remove the locking mech from the original door, and transfer it over to the new panel


Dont see a neat way of doing it XD, and dont want to ruin the original door, It probably wouldnt be too hard to fab one out of acrylic, use 2 pieces of 3mm? one with larger holes in it, then the one above it with smaller holes where the pins are so the edges can grip into the layer with the bigger holes.... have no time atm,

and wemad, just ask if they can cut it? the place i went to used acrylic knives that are easy as to use, it just scores (correct spelling?) the surface and then snap it off.... pretty sweet, and leaves a nice finish too


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you look at the pics in that link you posted previously that IS Lamptron. Those pics on the link are all Stock photos from their Adverts and on their boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stock photos are exactly the point. Both FrozenCPU and Performance-PCS are using the stock photo of the Lamptron FC5v2 on the G-VAN FC5. It may be a rebranded partnership. It may be a FC5v1 with a simple fix of the brightness that the v2 has, under a different company. It may be an off-shoot company of Lamptron.
> 
> Performance-PCS is fully at fault here due to them sending him a G-VAN box, rather than Lamptron. They are not liable for the shoddy work therein. Performance-PCS has BOTH the Lamptron AND G-VAN for sale. He ordered the Lamptron and received the G-VAN. If they no longer had stock of the Lamptron, they should have informed him after he ordered, rather than sending him a different brand, calling it the same.
> 
> I know you personally have not had issues with Performance-PCS, nor have I, but open your eyes man!
Click to expand...

The problem is we don't know the full story (Lamptron/GVan issue), but I do agree that they should have at least mentioned it before shipping it. At worst I think they didn't want to lose the sale. At best, well I don't think I need to go any further with my thought on that subject.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hogwasher

Well my RASA kit got here this morning just waiting on the white tubing to start my first "real loop" Will post some pics later


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Farmer Boe

I remember when this thread used to be about pictures. Now its mostly about discussing problems with watercooling suppliers.


----------



## ramkatral

It's actually just about water cooling related issues in general. It's the water cooling club /AND/ picture gallery. That implies it's a club for guys to discuss problems and such related to water cooling as well as post their pictures.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> I remember when this thread used to be about pictures. Now its mostly about discussing problems with watercooling suppliers.


the thread goes through phases, there are weeks with only one or two new picture posts and nothing but discussion, and then there are weeks with pic after pic after pic. I made this thread to be both









there actually was a gallery thread that existed before this one, and it was a very large thread, but the OP did not allow discussion which I felt defeated the purpose of having the thread. so I made this one.


----------



## HAFenvy

Ok... lets break up some of this with photos then. I've had the parts for a while but been so busy I haven't had a chance to tear down the system. Let's just say I plan to stuff all of this...



Into this...



Yeah yeah I know--- an H80? There is a method to my madness as I want to put both GTX580s on my custom loop and overclock them while putting my i7 on a separate cooler. Down the road I may build in a custom separate CPU cooling loop but got the H80 for cheap and thought... why not give it a go.

My customized HAF 922 with all that gear in there - should be interesting


----------



## wermad

^^^ I like









Beautiful fans but too pricey for me









edit: some build progress, still missing a few things:


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Yeah yeah I know--- an H80? There is a method to my madness as I want to put both GTX580s on my custom loop and overclock them while putting my i7 on a separate cooler. Down the road I may build in a custom separate CPU cooling loop but got the H80 for cheap and thought... why not give it a go.
> My customized HAF 922 with all that gear in there - should be interesting


Nooooooo! You can't change the build that inspired me to start!

Oh well I guess. I'll be swapping to blue tubing soon anyways







(damn blue LEDs on the DIYINHK board)


----------



## TheJesus

Pictures to please the person up a few posts









Never posted my build before I liquid cooled it, so might as well just post it finalized now


















































Sleeving is MDPC-X. Blocks are all EK. Rads are Black Ice/XSPC. The specs are mostly in my Rigbuilder (actually click the link, it doesn't seem to update changes in the signature).


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Nooooooo! You can't change the build that inspired me to start!
> Oh well I guess. I'll be swapping to blue tubing soon anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (damn blue LEDs on the DIYINHK board)


Heh thanks Angry... I think once you see it done... it will still be inspirational in just a slightly different way. I have some sneaky ideas on what I can do with the H80 to bring back the UV green tubing onto the CPU look... lets just say... using tubing to sleeve tubing


----------



## Scorpion49

Spent last night building the new case up. Made the move from the Antec P280 to a 650D. This is my first time using compression fittings and I hate them. I had four leaks in the first 5 minutes of running water through it. I have never once had a leak with a straight barb.

Yay leak testing!









But now there is an interesting problem. The front of the case won't fit around the bay res. Solution: lay it on the back and take the front cover off.


















Somehow to the camera the res is a different color than the case, but I can't tell the difference at all. The grain of the aluminum finish goes perpendicular to the case but it matches perfectly. I love this res, it literally took 5 minutes to fill/bleed. It didn't trap bubbles at all. Well worth the price.










Pics of the full rig coming soon, need to recharge the camera first.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Heh thanks Angry... I think once you see it done... it will still be inspirational in just a slightly different way. I have some sneaky ideas on what I can do with the H80 to bring back the UV green tubing onto the CPU look... lets just say... using tubing to sleeve tubing


Can't wait to see it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Spent last night building the new case up. Made the move from the Antec P280 to a 650D. This is my first time using compression fittings and I hate them. I had four leaks in the first 5 minutes of running water through it. I have never once had a leak with a straight barb.
> Yay leak testing!


I've never had leaks installing compression, only once when the tube got pulled really hard it started a slow leak. I did have quite a few leaks with barbs and that was because the clamps were a pita to install and were not going on properly.

Looks great btw


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've never had leaks installing compression, only once when the tube got pulled really hard it started a slow leak. I did have quite a few leaks with barbs and that was because the clamps were a pita to install and were not going on properly.
> 
> Looks great btw


Haha just the opposite for me, I never even used to put clamps. Compression fittings look way better though, I have to admit. It looks great running with the green fans, I'm just feeling lazy and don't want to move it all around to get good pictures of it. Stupid thing weighs about 50 lbs filled with stuff.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've never had leaks installing compression, only once when the tube got pulled really hard it started a slow leak. I did have quite a few leaks with barbs and that was because the clamps were a pita to install and were not going on properly.
> Looks great btw


Same, I've never had a leak with my compressions......

....*leans over to computer to make sure*


----------



## wermad

I love the clearance you get with a smaller compression fittings (compared with my old 1/2x3/4). It also looks much more streamlined when you connect them to extensions. Don't look like a mushrooms any more


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love the clearance you get with a smaller compression fittings (compared with my old 1/2x3/4). It also looks much more streamlined when you connect them to extensions. Don't look like a mushrooms any more


Mine are huge.... I had some clearance issues on my front radiator since the fan holes aren't perfectly aligned. 1/2x3/4 is fat tubing haha.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks pretty nice there Scorp.









Before reading, I thought you had it on its back to fill the Res. Not to fit the Res into place. Of course that might have been the better way to go and let gravity do the work. Unless of course you have a fillport someplace else in your loop or a drain tube you can use a funnel to fill with. There isn't any one right way I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## CD69Scorp

Here is some pictures of the build I did for my daughter and granddaughter for Christmas

I know it's not a custom loop like my other setups, but it will do for now! Here is some of the parts I used...

NZXT H2 Classic case
Q6600
Intel board
Corsair H80 Liquid cooler
Mushkin ram
Crucial M4 128gb SSD
WD 1tb Caviar Black
Evga GTX-260
LG BluRay
SeaSonic X650 Gold
MDPC Sleeving
24in Samsung Monitor
Logitech Speakers









By cd69scorp at 2012-01-01









By cd69scorp at 2012-01-01









By cd69scorp at 2012-01-01









By cd69scorp at 2012-01-01









By cd69scorp at 2012-01-01









By cd69scorp at 2012-01-01


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks pretty nice there Scorp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before reading, I thought you had it on its back to fill the Res. Not to fit the Res into place. Of course that might have been the better way to go and let gravity do the work. Unless of course you have a fillport someplace else in your loop or a drain tube you can use a funnel to fill with. There isn't any one right way I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well, I didn't check to see if it worked with the front on before I went and filled the whole thing up and leak tested it. The front has a lip to stop disk drives from going in too far I guess. The res is the danger den monsoon premium and I'm seriously in love with that thing. It has ports right on top that stick out with the case front off so I just filled it up there, literally the whole loop was filled and quiet in less than 5 minutes, all the bubbles out. It seems to have a lot higher performance for the D5 than the xspc D5 top/res I was using before as well. As a side not, the tool-less bay clips on the 650D are terrible, they don't seem to work on anything. I ended up taking them off on the 3 bays I did use.

Heres some pics I just snapped real quick.

This is just to show whats in it, I turned the cold cathode on (I originally installed it just to help find leaks but I figured it could stay).



















I took some with the lights off so you can see the different lights in there. I have the power LED wired to the bottom of the raystorm block in red, and the HDD LED is on the top of it in red as well. I may get some different colors for that, but I kind of like the contrast.


















By the way, that white rig above me is amazing ^^


----------



## skyn3t

Hey guys my fittings just arrived today and some MDPC sleeving but i have a lot more to come. just a sneak pick. right below in my SiG you find my project. Fittiling's are from FrozenCPU. and sleeving ( you know ). MDPC. and I'm still waiting for my Black and red sleeving. and some other stuff.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Here is some pictures of the build I did for my daughter and granddaughter for Christmas
> I know it's not a custom loop like my other setups, but it will do for now! Here is some of the parts I used...
> NZXT H2 Classic case
> Q6600
> Intel board
> Corsair H80 Liquid cooler
> Mushkin ram
> Crucial M4 128gb SSD
> WD 1tb Caviar Black
> Evga GTX-260
> LG BluRay
> SeaSonic X650 Gold
> MDPC Sleeving
> 24in Samsung Monitor
> Logitech Speakers


Nicely and done







love the white RiG.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> *snip*


Scorp, didn't consider the 200mm rad? I've seen these guys more and more with mid cases that have a 200mm fan option in the front:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_975&products_id=31028


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> Scorp, didn't consider the 200mm rad? I've seen these guys more and more with mid cases that have a 200mm fan option in the front:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_975&products_id=31028
Click to expand...

Yes and no. The phobya radiator everyone wants to use for this is sold out in most places. It is also much cheaper to buy $7 of brackets when I already have stuff sitting around. I still have 4 radiators in my closet that I'm not using


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yes and no. The phobya radiator everyone wants to use for this is sold out in most places. It is also much cheaper to buy $7 of brackets when I already have stuff sitting around. I still have 4 radiators in my closet that I'm not using


I see. That's a lot of goodies you got there









Well, I just stumbled upon this:



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_417&products_id=31148

& this:



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_417&products_id=4458

I'm using pvc cutters, which works ok:


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh lookie here. Scorp is a Radiator whore.









Naughty naughty Scorp.









I haven't even gotten my first er... 2nd one (H50







) one yet. But that's more or less research and not wanting to mess up the most important piece of the build.









~Ceadder


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh lookie here. Scorp is a Radiator whore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naughty naughty Scorp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't even gotten my first er... 2nd one (H50
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) one yet. But that's more or less research and not wanting to mess up the most important piece of the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Haha, I'm afraid to show what became of my H50. I have a bunch of small radiators for nonsense builds, I don't have any bigger ones.


----------



## Spawne32

sweet jesus, skyn3t im gonna PM you


----------



## jellis142

Attention waterblock Guru's!

I want to go Crossfire. With water under everything (3930K, RIVE, 6950 (or two other powerful/cost effective GPU's). I already have one Asus EAH6950, and would rather just purchase another one and add a block to each. But I'm aware it is not a reference PCB, but would rather not have to sell it and purchase something else just to fit a block. If you know of ANY full-cover blocks available, it would be greatly appreciated









Btw, haven't said this in awhile, but these rigs are killer. I don't see why building PC's isn't in the Olympics.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> Attention waterblock Guru's!
> 
> I want to go Crossfire. With water under everything (3930K, RIVE, 6950 (or two other powerful/cost effective GPU's). I already have one Asus EAH6950, and would rather just purchase another one and add a block to each. But I'm aware it is not a reference PCB, but would rather not have to sell it and purchase something else just to fit a block. If you know of ANY full-cover blocks available, it would be greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, haven't said this in awhile, but these rigs are killer. I don't see why building PC's isn't in the Olympics.


Is it a DCII?


----------



## jellis142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Is it a DCII?


Yes, which is why I'm not expecting a positive outcome







I just love the all-black PCB and awesome overclocking headroom...


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> Yes, which is why I'm not expecting a positive outcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just love the all-black PCB and awesome overclocking headroom...


I think your only option is a universal like the MCW82 and some sticky heatsinks for the VRM's and such. There are several people who have modded all-in-one CPU coolers to fin inside the DCII shroud and still keep the fans to cool the rest of the card as well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> Yes, which is why I'm not expecting a positive outcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just love the all-black PCB and awesome overclocking headroom...


Sorry bud, most results are coming up as not compatible with your pcb design. Its looking like you'll need to go universal and add some heatsinks.

http://coolingconfigurator.com/home

http://www.swiftech.com/HD6970-HS.aspx


----------



## jellis142

Oh Bawls







Thank you. I may just get another on air till the 7000-Series comes out with more models.


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By cd69scorp at 2012-01-01
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By cd69scorp at 2012-01-01
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By cd69scorp at 2012-01-01


So clean! You well deserve this thumb mister!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Have we all forgotten about G-Vans yet? We now have an official word on the situation!









http://www.overclock.net/t/1195612/official-statement-regarding-g-vans-knock-off-controllers-products


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Here is some pictures of the build I did for my daughter and granddaughter for Christmas
> I know it's not a custom loop like my other setups, but it will do for now! Here is some of the parts I used...
> NZXT H2 Classic case
> Q6600
> Intel board
> Corsair H80 Liquid cooler
> Mushkin ram
> Crucial M4 128gb SSD
> WD 1tb Caviar Black
> Evga GTX-260
> LG BluRay
> SeaSonic X650 Gold
> MDPC Sleeving
> 24in Samsung Monitor
> Logitech Speakers
> 
> *snip


Very very nice. How did you get GPU fan shroud to be all white, or was it like that as standard?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Very very nice. How did you get GPU fan shroud to be all white, or was it like that as standard?


I was wondering the same thing when I first saw it...?


----------



## Ceadderman

He probably sprayed it. That system looks pristine. Too bad the green PCB is sticking out like a sore thumb. Still that thing looks awesome.









~Ceadder


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I see. That's a lot of goodies you got there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I just stumbled upon this:
> hose and pipe cutter. Edit for reply


hey you can get this hose or pipe cutter from local home depot or lowes don't even try to order this online beucase you going to pay for shipping.







check it here

Home Depot

Lowes

try that.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> sweet jesus, skyn3t im gonna PM you


PM replied


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Here is some pictures of the build I did for my daughter and granddaughter for Christmas
> I know it's not a custom loop like my other setups, but it will do for now! Here is some of the parts I used...
> NZXT H2 Classic case
> Q6600
> Intel board
> Corsair H80 Liquid cooler
> Mushkin ram
> Crucial M4 128gb SSD
> WD 1tb Caviar Black
> Evga GTX-260
> LG BluRay
> SeaSonic X650 Gold
> MDPC Sleeving
> 24in Samsung Monitor
> Logitech Speakers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He probably sprayed it. That system looks pristine. Too bad the green PCB is sticking out like a sore thumb. Still that thing looks awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Love your Build ( second time )









Hey Ceadderman , you just light up the candle , maybe he can get a plexy and put white paint on and get this 
and maybe he can do something personalized on the plexy just to cover the green


----------



## dseg

I finished my rig last week.


----------



## digitalgrafx

Decided to build my first computer and took on a watercooled 600t. Made some errors but I'm learning from all the great modders I see here. Plan to add another video card, rad, 45 degree compression fittings etc etc. Once you have caught the bug you want to keep adding lol.


----------



## wermad

I tried aquatunning.us since they are the only US retailer with the fittings I need and their shipping is insane for a few fittings







. Gonna have to wait for ppcs to get more in stock and use my EK bridge for now







. They have some good prices and nice selection but I can't pay $18 to ship half a dozen small fittings (i bought 12 from ppcs and it cost me $7 and it arrived in three days).

edit: looks like they ship from Germany and hence why shipping is a bit expensive. Will take too long anyways, so I'll pass.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I finished my rig last week.
> 
> *snip


Very nice, I really like the blue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalgrafx*
> 
> Decided to build my first computer and took on a watercooled 600t. Made some errors but I'm learning from all the great modders I see here. Plan to add another video card, rad, 45 degree compression fittings etc etc. Once you have caught the bug you want to keep adding lol.
> 
> *snip


Very nice build. Ha yes it is so addictive. I've got my next build planned out in my head already, now just to source some funds.......

How you like the FC touch, I am loving mine. Hooked my pump up to it too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He probably sprayed it. That system looks pristine. Too bad the green PCB is sticking out like a sore thumb. Still that thing looks awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Ceadderman , *you just light up the candle* , maybe he can get a plexy and put white paint on and get this
> and maybe he can do something personalized on the plexy just to cover the green
Click to expand...

Thank u... I think.









That's an awesome idea though. You can get white plexi without even painting it though.


















~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## threephi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I tried aquatunning.us since they are the only US retailer with the fittings I need and their shipping is insane for a few fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gonna have to wait for ppcs to get more in stock and use my EK bridge for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They have some good prices and nice selection but I can't pay $18 to ship half a dozen small fittings (i bought 12 from ppcs and it cost me $7 and it arrived in three days).


Aquatuning are in fact in Germany, they've done a great job of conquering the world watercooling market through a multitude of language-specific websites though


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *threephi*
> 
> Aquatuning are in fact in Germany, they've done a great job of conquering the world watercooling market through a multitude of language-specific websites though


Yup, I just found that out. Sucks that they ship from Germany. I thought since their site ended in ".us" they were US or Canadian. I need my fittings asap so it'll be quicker to wait for a US retailer to get them in stock again. I've ordered from EK in Slovenia and from the UK and it takes a good two weeks to arrive and that's if customs doesn't hold up the package.

And tbh, I wouldn't say they "conquered the water cooling world". I have yet to see any retailer have a large presence in the major continents to provide a better chain of outlets users can purchase water products from. Any retailer can ship world wide, not every retailer can have a store/warehouse in multiple countries to cut down on shipping and time. My


----------



## Los Hog

I dont know I got some stuff for a new build coming up from Aquatuning and it was here in four days. In fact I orderd some stuff from Frozencpu same day and have yet to get that order and that was six days ago


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *threephi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I tried aquatunning.us since they are the only US retailer with the fittings I need and their shipping is insane for a few fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gonna have to wait for ppcs to get more in stock and use my EK bridge for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They have some good prices and nice selection but I can't pay $18 to ship half a dozen small fittings (i bought 12 from ppcs and it cost me $7 and it arrived in three days).
> 
> 
> 
> Aquatuning are in fact in Germany, they've done a great job of conquering the world watercooling market through a multitude of language-specific websites though
Click to expand...

Yes, it's just too bad that if your order does not meet their minimum buy price they tack on a pretty big surcharge.









Their prices on some things are pretty outrageous too. But people can say that about most any retailer on the net. Just have to do your homework before whippin out the CC.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I just tried two fittings and shipping was still the same









I might be able to make it with the fittings I have. I just like to have spares just in case I throw in another block in the mix. The only thing I'm unsure of is the angled and extensions I might need once I fit the last two rads. I'll find out tomorrow after noon. Scored a bnib RS240 and RS120 from a local guy for $50 both.


----------



## Homeyjojo

Here is 3 pics of my current build, see the build log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1195919/build-log-red-fury-x79-liquid-cooled#post_16125234


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homeyjojo*
> 
> Here is 3 pics of my current build, see the build log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1195919/build-log-red-fury-x79-liquid-cooled#post_16125234


Is that the chrome version of your EK CPU block?


----------



## Homeyjojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Is that the chrome version of your EK CPU block?


Electroless Nickel Plated.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homeyjojo*
> 
> Electroless Nickel Plated.


That's the new fancy shmancy name EK gave to its new nickel plating after a horrendous nickel plating ordeal. Its still nickel, but apperantly plated differently though they claim its not as bright as their previous method.

Some folks call it "silver" or "chrome" but its nickel plated non-the-less.

Rig looks beautiful btw


----------



## Homeyjojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's the new fancy shmancy name EK gave to its new nickel plating after a horrendous nickel plating ordeal. Its still nickel, but apperantly plated differently though they claim its not as bright as their previous method.
> Some folks call it "silver" or "chrome" but its nickel plated non-the-less.
> Rig looks beautiful btw


Thanks!


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Nicely and done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love the white RiG.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> So clean! You well deserve this thumb mister!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Very very nice. How did you get GPU fan shroud to be all white, or was it like that as standard?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He probably sprayed it. That system looks pristine. Too bad the green PCB is sticking out like a sore thumb. Still that thing looks awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks guys...
Yes, I painted the GPU, I used Krylon Fusion(love this stuff) then used modeling enamel for the ribs. As far as the motherboard goes I don't like it ether but there is not a lot of options for a 775 board.
I also used the Krylon on the radiator, fans and the covers for the PSU and HDD cage.


----------



## skyn3t

look what i just got







some sneakpick, time to work hard


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homeyjojo*
> 
> Thanks!


Is that 3/8x1/2, or 7/16x5/8, or 3/8x5/8, or 1/2x5/8 tube and compression fittings?


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*


Looks great. You must be a proud owner of that GTX 580 Classified HC too!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that 3/8x1/2, or 7/16x5/8, or 3/8x5/8, or 1/2x5/8 tube and compression fittings?


I'm guessing 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD, the ID was the first thing I noticed right away. I thought to myself gee that's a big ID!


----------



## p0Pe

A REAL man´s reservoir


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

interesting idea for a res, should look great in a case behind a grill


----------



## Homeyjojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that 3/8x1/2, or 7/16x5/8, or 3/8x5/8, or 1/2x5/8 tube and compression fittings?


3/8 ID 1/2 OD by bitspower.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homeyjojo*
> 
> 3/8 ID 1/2 OD by bitspower.


Kewl, that's what I changed too. Gives me a great idea how the tube will look like


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> look what i just got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some sneakpick, time to work hard


*Drool*

That's my next endeavor is to learn how to sleeve.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p0Pe*
> 
> A REAL man´s reservoir


Does that come in a 120 or 240 size and is there a plexi face for that? Would love to do something like that with my HAF if I'm pulling my HDD cage since I'd need a place to mount my Drives. I don't like carving up stock metal to shorten it and would like to keep my drives accessible as well.









So I guess I'm askin where you got it.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So I guess I'm askin where you got it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Not got,he made it
.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Does that come in a 120 or 240 size and is there a plexi face for that? Would love to do something like that with my HAF if I'm pulling my HDD cage since I'd need a place to mount my Drives. I don't like carving up stock metal to shorten it and would like to keep my drives accessible as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess I'm askin where you got it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Follow his build log, he made it himself. Very skilled right there.


----------



## threephi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup, I just found that out. Sucks that they ship from Germany. I thought since their site ended in ".us" they were US or Canadian. I need my fittings asap so it'll be quicker to wait for a US retailer to get them in stock again. I've ordered from EK in Slovenia and from the UK and it takes a good two weeks to arrive and that's if customs doesn't hold up the package.
> And tbh, I wouldn't say they "conquered the water cooling world". I have yet to see any retailer have a large presence in the major continents to provide a better chain of outlets users can purchase water products from. Any retailer can ship world wide, not every retailer can have a store/warehouse in multiple countries to cut down on shipping and time. My


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I dont know I got some stuff for a new build coming up from Aquatuning and it was here in four days. In fact I orderd some stuff from Frozencpu same day and have yet to get that order and that was six days ago


Yep I was amazed when I ordered from them and the package was at my door three days later. Just make sure you check out their shipping terms etc. They do charge a "shipping/customs tax" in addition to the ridiculously low $6 or $8 shipping fee (more if the order is below $75). But for my recent order, the total charge was still less than any other vendor for the same shopping basket.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

@ Pope, Great looking res, I'm loving your log. I'm curious why your outlet on the res isn't lower though, is that bottom 120mm just for decoration then?

In other news, I had a scary incident this morning- I woke up to my pump cavitating and low (but thankfully not empty) water level in my RP452x2. After stripping the decorative panels off and inspecting the res, that one of the pump collars got loosened somehow (I suspect pump vibration since there's been no movement of the res in the case for months







). Anyway, it was backed off at least 1 turn and it was allowing a minute trickle of water out around the edge of the collar. I put some teflon on it and torqued it back on, along with some Sharpie marks so I can easily see if it's rotating in the future. Just thought I'd put it out as a word of warning to all the Koolance res owners out there!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> In other news, I had a scary incident this morning- I woke up to my pump cavitating and low (but thankfully not empty) water level in my RP452x2. After stripping the decorative panels off and inspecting the res, that one of the pump collars got loosened somehow (I suspect pump vibration since there's been no movement of the res in the case for months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Anyway, it was backed off at least 1 turn and it was allowing a minute trickle of water out around the edge of the collar. I put some teflon on it and torqued it back on, along with some Sharpie marks so I can easily see if it's rotating in the future. Just thought I'd put it out as a word of warning to all the Koolance res owners out there!


That's too close of a call! Was the drip small enough that it evaporated before touching anything, or was it pooled by the res?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *threephi*
> 
> Yep I was amazed when I ordered from them and the package was at my door three days later. Just make sure you check out their shipping terms etc. They do charge a "shipping/customs tax" in addition to the ridiculously low $6 or $8 shipping fee (more if the order is below $75). But for my recent order, the total charge was still less than any other vendor for the same shopping basket.


That's weird bro, I been on their site and even registered with them and shipping is still way more expensive than ppcs. Ill shoot them an email to find out how to get this $6 shipping.


----------



## Los Hog

LOL I wish everybody had $6 shipping that would be great


----------



## derickwm

Aquatuning is my favorite place to order from. Decent prices on most items and ridiculously fast/cheap shipping...from Germany. Makes no sense but I love it.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Just finished my new build and thought I'ld post some pics.


















































And a pic of the finished room setup


----------



## wermad

^^^ That's awesome








. What coolant/dye are you using???

I miss my MM Ext Ascension


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ That's awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What coolant/dye are you using???
> I miss my MM Ext Ascension


Its mayhems pastel orange gigabyte concentrate with 10ml of uv yellow green. The pic dont show it (since theres still alot of light in my office, but in the dark it has a nice orange glow under the UV light).

Now that I finally finished, I should have got the extended ascension, with the rads in push/pull with the airplex rad boxes, i had one inch from the fans to the mb tray. But this by far is my favorite case!!!


----------



## ramkatral

That's a beauty!


----------



## derickwm

what gpus are in it? Your 460s from other build and the 580?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> what gpus are in it? Your 460s from other build and the 580?


Yep I had the two 460"s in my folding rig and got sick of having two rigs running, so I combined them. I'm gonna have this one running 24/7 folding with the 580 and 460s and the 980x ( if i can get her to stable out, she a ornery one)!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Just finished my new build and thought I'ld post some pics.
> snip*


that is sexy enough to almost make me want to go back to a case


----------



## HOTDOGS

I wanna see some 800D and 650D build logs/pictures. I've looked at a few but need motivation.


----------



## cyberbeat

^
This is my 800D I can link you to my build log on another forums if you want.


----------



## SimpleTech

My 5970 with EK FC-5970 Acetal/Nickel block.


----------



## KaRLiToS

You need inspiration, here you go









Wermad also had a lot of good ideas on his previous 800D Case


----------



## cyberbeat

I need to find myself a 480mm version of that shroud you have in the roof there


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*
> 
> I need to find myself a 480mm version of that shroud you have in the roof there


http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=693


----------



## HOTDOGS

Thanks for the motivation/inspiration/porn guys hahah


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Thanks for the motivation/inspiration/porn guys hahah


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> That's too close of a call! Was the drip small enough that it evaporated before touching anything, or was it pooled by the res?


The way that the res is set up currently the drip pooled in the bottom of the 5.25" cage and ran forward and down the front of the case, thankfully sparing everything except my sanity haha. And wouldn't ya know, just as I finished patching that up, my top RX360 started trickling. Luckily it was during a leak test so I didn't have the rig powered up, but it dripped a little on my 570. I pulled the 360 out of the loop so I'm currently only running on the Swiftech MCR320 and 220 in the bottom. Shockingly temps are better without the 360, not sure how, it's possible that it's just a difference in ambients. So in 5 years of watercooling, I got my first two leaks in the same day...







Can't believe the RX failed, it's been running fine for 6 months and FannBlade used it longer before me, it's a mystery...

Since there have been a few 800D's here today I figured I'd remind everyone about mine- this is an old shot, it's now got a new mobo and that RX in the top is getting replaced by an AC Airplex 360. I'm hoping the brushed stainless and the aluminum fins will match the theme well







As for the comments about aquatuning.us and shipping- I paid $8 for their 'expedited' shipping, and a small (~$5) customs fee. If it had been less than $75 in the order it would've been more expensive on shipping as someone mentioned. They say it's 3 day shipping from Germany, so I'm hoping to have it by the long weekend









Also, @Kev, any progress on my MOTM tag?

Inspiration for the 800D crowd, and the Shelby crowd


----------



## cyberbeat

Shame on you for those VGA adaptors...







Always loved your case though... ;(


----------



## djinferno806

Just put together my very first custom w/c setup. Nothing special or extravagant. And since the case is closed with no windows i didnt do any UV tubing.

2600k @4.4Ghz (1.28v)
8GB G skill 1600mhz @ CL9
MSI p67 GD65
MSI GTX580 twin frozr ii OC @ 920 (1.1v)
WD Black 750GB
Corsair HX1050 PS
Antec p280 Mid Case(2x two cool fans intaking from front, 1x two cool fan exhausting from rear, both set to high...)

COOLING:
Raystorm cpu block
EK gtx 580 EN Acetal GPU block
RX120 thick rad w/ GT AP15
EX240 thin rad w/ 2x GT AP15's
7/16' thermochill hose(white), compression fittings
xspc dual bay resevoir w/ D5 strong pump
Scythe fan controller running all fans at 1500 rpm 24/7.

My temps are:
Ambient always 19-20 C

CPU 24-28 C idle depending on core
GPU 22 C idle

Max Load using prime95 on cpu is around 45-51C
Max load using heaven/3dmark11 loop (or super long battlefield 3 gaming session, lol graphically intensive game) 41

whenever the cpu and gpu are both maxed it the temps jump to about 55C max cpu on hottest core and 43 max on gpu core.















some videos of my build.

http://youtu.be/--w_nC-u3Vg
http://youtu.be/haS36FO7AWU
http://youtu.be/dVA_fS6kewg


----------



## LiquidHaus

there have been a lotttt of 800D builds up lately, in this thread and the watercooling forum. i love it









mine is bleak and empty, waiting to get powdercoated haha


----------



## Fallout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> there have been a lotttt of 800D builds up lately, in this thread and the watercooling forum. i love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine is bleak and empty, waiting to get powdercoated haha


are you sure the plastic components on your case can stand up to the heat of a powder coat i was considering getting my old 800 D powder coated but when i did a heat test to see if the plastic could handle the heat on an extra 5 1/4 bay cover in the oven even at the temperature required for a low temperature powder it still warped the plastic. or are you just going to do the mettle bits of the case?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fallout*
> 
> are you sure the plastic components on your case can stand up to the heat of a powder coat i was considering getting my old 800 D powder coated but when i did a heat test to see if the plastic could handle the heat on an extra 5 1/4 bay cover in the oven even at the temperature required for a low temperature powder it still warped the plastic. or are you just going to do the mettle bits of the case?


oh dude i totally stripped the case out, taking out every bit of plastic. i completely assume every time i get something powdercoated, that ANY plastic incorporated will not stand up to the powdercoating process, and i dont risk it. but i still get the biscuit. hahahah









here's what MY case looks like..









OH YEAH BABY


----------



## Fallout

i figured you would have it striped down but just in case. id hate to here about something bad happening


----------



## cyberbeat

Looks good, is that center bit for a 240/280mm rad?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fallout*
> 
> i figured you would have it striped down but just in case. id hate to here about something bad happening


i almost forgot about the lower section where the black plastic divider is but i thoroughly went over the case just to make sure. after all the time i've spent modding the damn'd thing i didn't wanna screw it up over a simple mistake.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*
> 
> Looks good, is that center bit for a 240/280mm rad?


thanks. yeah the center bit won't have anything mounted to it though except a grill, it's just to provide airflow through the divider unlike the divider that comes stock. so many people run a 240 at the bottom but the stock divider just blocks the airflow. well, most of it anyway.


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p0Pe*
> 
> A REAL man´s reservoir


Greetings fellow dane!
That is some very nice mods you got there, on your site. Keep up the good work









/NwP


----------



## Boyboyd

When i swap round, i'm going to use blue and red tubing. Blue for cool water, red for hot.

(I know the temp of the water barely changes, but still.... )


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

@skaboy607: run the pump @9V and use a silent top, such as the phobya metal top, or the koolance 400 / bitspower pom top


----------



## num1son

Looks nice Bundy. How were the temps?


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> @skaboy607: run the pump @9V and use a silent top, such as the phobya metal top, or the koolance 400 / bitspower pom top


Thanks. I've got it at 9v and it's good. Got the EK top on which isn't the quietest but is pretty good as the pump is decoupled from the case.

Does anyone know if a sparkle GTX 460 has a reference PCB design. I have got the opportunity to get one cheap 'ish' but need it fit an EK FC460 to match my current block and card (EVGA GTX 460 FPB).


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> thanks. yeah the center bit won't have anything mounted to it though except a grill, it's just to provide airflow through the divider unlike the divider that comes stock. so many people run a 240 at the bottom but the stock divider just blocks the airflow. well, most of it anyway.


Thats a great idea for the 240, never saw that nowhere until now









The way I placed my botton 240 on my first version of 800D was the way almost everybody does it.



But I saw the case interior temperature were very high at some point, and the sensor was in the mobo part.
So I stripped the bottom of the case to insert the 240 Radiator, push/pull with 25mm thick fans. Intake bottom and windowed panel, exhaust is the backdoor panel.

Your case temperature will still be higher the way you set up your radiator, unless your exhaust is the bottom.


----------



## andytom69

why hot air through rad360?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andytom69*
> 
> why hot air through rad360?


It would be counter productive to flip either the 360 or 240 flow so they either both push in or pull out. Too much positive or negative air pressure would be essentially the same.


----------



## KaRLiToS

....


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andytom69*
> 
> why hot air through rad360?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> It would be counter productive to flip either the 360 or 240 flow so they either both push in or pull out. Too much positive or negative air pressure would be essentially the same.


True, and anyway, almost everything is watercooled inside the case, except the Ram

Like I said in my post, this was my previous setup, now its like this


----------



## Hogwasher

Just finished installing my RASA. Do I just drop the kill coil into the Reservoir


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Just finished installing my RASA. Do I just drop the kill coil into the Reservoir


Yess


----------



## Hogwasher

thx +rep


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> thx +rep


Is it me or do you have pretty nasty kink on the tube out of the RAD?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Is it me or do you have pretty nasty kink on the tube out of the RAD?


Nope...its a nasty kink.


----------



## kamikaze_

^


----------



## Hogwasher

not kinked getting great flow and temps

it is bent but still open


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> not kinked getting great flow and temps
> it is bent but still open


Looks its bent already mate. Even if you try to straighten it out it will continue to bend there. Turn your rad 180°, to run some shorter runs to the (what looks like) your bay area res or/and pump, use some spare tube to run a new line for the cpu to rad. What size of tube are you running btw?

In my previous builds, even fully loaded and complex loops I had no kinks as long as the run was fluid. Use angled fittings for this to help direct the tube a bit better.

I finally got my two other rads. This case is still a tight fitting which ran into this little issue of clearance. Hopefully the new fittings ordered should clear this. My R4s and pump arrive in the next couple of days. I'm hoping to wrap up this weekend


----------



## Hogwasher

I might try to rerun it tommorrow but I'm getting 48C on both the CPU and GPU while gaming so it's flowing good.

I'm assuming the only problem is cosmetic correct?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> I might try to rerun it tommorrow but I'm getting 48C on both the CPU and GPU while gaming so it's flowing good.
> I'm assuming the only problem is cosmetic correct?


You will get reduced flow with a twist/kink in the run,could cause back pressure which could lead to a fail of a fittings watertightness


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> I might try to rerun it tommorrow but I'm getting 48C on both the CPU and GPU while gaming so it's flowing good.
> I'm assuming the only problem is cosmetic correct?


You will be introducing a lot of resistance into the loop which will cause increased stress on the pump plus as Bnegative said could cause back pressure.


----------



## Hogwasher

Ok I reran it got the twist out but there is still a little bend, put a zip tie on the bend to hold it all the way open.

Next payday I will buy some angled barbs to fix it.

Thanks for the heads up guys! I figured if I was getting good flow and temps it would be good.


----------



## DevilDriver

this may just come down to personal preference but what do you all recomend or which is better

DangerDen dream flex

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13729/ex-tub-990/Danger_Den_DreamFlex_Value_Pack_-_Tubing_Clamps_Tube_Cutter_12ID_x_34OD_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s172
or
PrimoChill Primoflex Pro

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12807/ex-tub-840/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_12ID_34OD_with_18_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Red_PFLEXP10-34-R.html?tl=g30c99s172

I want to rerun my tubing with red and change a couple of my regular fittings for 90° and compression to make things a little nicer.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*
> 
> Shame on you for those VGA adaptors...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always loved your case though... ;(


Haha yeah, I'm sad to say that I'm currently running a pair of old Dell 19" 4:3 LCDs... They work well though so I can't complain!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I finally got my two other rads. This case is still a tight fitting which ran into this little issue of clearance. Hopefully the new fittings ordered should clear this. My R4s and pump arrive in the next couple of days. I'm hoping to wrap up this weekend


Glad to see you sticking with that WS Revolution wermad, I'm loving mine


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

hogwash - good choice not to leave it. that extra stress that kink would put on your pump could very easily kill your pump fairly quickly even if there is still some flow. you always want to be sure you have your loop as free of restrictions as possible.


----------



## bobfig

you guys are making mountains out of mole hills. i had a severely worse kink in my set up a while back that i ran for nearly a year without any problem.


----------



## Kortwa

But why even chance it when you can usually come up with a creative solution to fix the kink and not have an issue.


----------



## Hogwasher

the twist is out and held open with a zip tie


----------



## HOTDOGS

So if I decide to go watercooling is it going to be much more difficult in the 650D then in the 800D? I'll be a first timer to this but the 800D is huge and 100 bucks more before shipping. I noticed people always mod them so I don't know if it's worth getting or not.I really want the TJ07 but it's silver interior and price tag is too much. Looks are good, I like a sleek look; not like the HAF. Also the removable filters on the Corsair cases are awesome!

Please recommend me a case in the the $250 max range, bonus points if you keep it under!


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> So if I decide to go watercooling is it going to be much more difficult in the 650D then in the 800D? I'll be a first timer to this but the 800D is huge and 100 bucks more before shipping. I noticed people always mod them so I don't know if it's worth getting or not.I really want the TJ07 but it's silver interior and price tag is too much. Looks are good, I like a sleek look; not like the HAF. Also the removable filters on the Corsair cases are awesome!
> Please recommend me a case in the the $250 max range, bonus points if you keep it under!


What do you plan to cool? CPU only or GPU also?


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> So if I decide to go watercooling is it going to be much more difficult in the 650D then in the 800D? I'll be a first timer to this but the 800D is huge and 100 bucks more before shipping. I noticed people always mod them so I don't know if it's worth getting or not.I really want the TJ07 but it's silver interior and price tag is too much. Looks are good, I like a sleek look; not like the HAF. Also the removable filters on the Corsair cases are awesome!
> Please recommend me a case in the the $250 max range, bonus points if you keep it under!


I know they're a bit pricey, but DemciFlex magnetic filters are absolutely amazing, I highly recommend them, even at the slightly more expensive price point.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> So if I decide to go watercooling is it going to be much more difficult in the 650D then in the 800D? I'll be a first timer to this but the 800D is huge and 100 bucks more before shipping. I noticed people always mod them so I don't know if it's worth getting or not.I really want the TJ07 but it's silver interior and price tag is too much. Looks are good, I like a sleek look; not like the HAF. Also the removable filters on the Corsair cases are awesome!
> Please recommend me a case in the the $250 max range, bonus points if you keep it under!


Something different







:



You can fit a 360 and a 480 or a mini system or nas in the top compartment. Very unique case and had it been available a few weeks ago, there be a strong possibility it would be sitting at my desk rather than the 690 ii.

Btw, looks like you have the 690 ii, why consider the 650D if it doesn't offer the same water capability as the 690ii ?


----------



## Platinum8317

My new Bench


----------



## Omnius

There are certainly bigger computers out there, but this is the biggest I've ever owned, let alone built myself.
You can get the complete list of pieces and parts in my rigbuilder entry marked, "First Water Cooling Attempt" in my signature but here is a summary:

Corsair 800D case
Rampage IV Extreme motherboard
Intel Core i7-3960X
Twin Radeon HD 6990 video cards (4 GPUs with 2Gb memory each)
32Gb G.Skill Sniper at 1866
Custom water cooling
Windows 7 Pro

You can read my build diary in the forum here.


----------



## num1son

I have a quick question for anyone knowledgeable. Does the pump have to be right under (or below) the res? Or could you have it slight above and to about 6-8" of tubing away?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> I have a quick question for anyone knowledgeable. Does the pump have to be right under (or below) the res? Or could you have it slight above and to about 6-8" of tubing away?


You wanna make sure its below the reservoir's water line. This will have gravity fill your pump to avoid running it dry. Its always a better approach to have it below the res so the pump gets as much liquid as possible and avoid running dry. You might want to seal your loop add a piece of tube to the top of your res, and blow on it hard. this will get the water pushed into the pump and then start running the loop.

After the res and preferably at a lower point is my advise.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> What do you plan to cool? CPU only or GPU also?


Both CPU and GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> I know they're a bit pricey, but DemciFlex magnetic filters are absolutely amazing, I highly recommend them, even at the slightly more expensive price point.


Reading up on them now, thanks for the heads up!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Btw, looks like you have the 690 ii, why consider the 650D if it doesn't offer the same water capability as the 690ii ?


I find it to be very unattractive and very nerdy looking now. Plus I have to constantly clean the filters because it's very dusty in my basement and it would be much easier with the removable filters on a corsair case.


----------



## Bouf0010

i feel like im in need of another rad or better fans...

while playing bf3 my gpus hit 49C on stock clocks and my [email protected] hits 60C.

48C on the gpu is what i used to get at 900/[email protected] when i only had the one 580 and the cpu topped out at about 56C.

Im currently running Gelid Wing 12PL 2000RPM fans in Push on an RX480. I used to be ok with them running at 1100rpm, now i have to run them at 2000rpm while gaming (too noisy).

I have a RS360 collecting dust right now but id have to buy some fans for it and mount it externally (which i dont really feel like doing, but i will if i have to)

I could invest in better fans for the RX480.

Theres also the option of buying a 120mm rad and fitting that inside the case.

I can probably spend about $100 taxes and shipping included.

Any suggestions as to what i should do??


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> this may just come down to personal preference but what do you all recomend or which is better
> DangerDen dream flex
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13729/ex-tub-990/Danger_Den_DreamFlex_Value_Pack_-_Tubing_Clamps_Tube_Cutter_12ID_x_34OD_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s172
> or
> PrimoChill Primoflex Pro
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12807/ex-tub-840/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_12ID_34OD_with_18_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Red_PFLEXP10-34-R.html?tl=g30c99s172
> I want to rerun my tubing with red and change a couple of my regular fittings for 90° and compression to make things a little nicer.


Its probably just personal preference. I love my PrimoFlex, best tubing I've worked with








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> i feel like im in need of another rad or better fans...
> while playing bf3 my gpus hit 49C on stock clocks and my [email protected] hits 60C.
> 48C on the gpu is what i used to get at 900/[email protected] when i only had the one 580 and the cpu topped out at about 56C.
> Im currently running Gelid Wing 12PL 2000RPM fans in Push on an RX480. I used to be ok with them running at 1100rpm, now i have to run them at 2000rpm while gaming (too noisy).
> I have a RS360 collecting dust right now but id have to buy some fans for it and mount it externally (which i dont really feel like doing, but i will if i have to)
> I could invest in better fans for the RX480.
> Theres also the option of buying a 120mm rad and fitting that inside the case.
> I can probably spend about $100 taxes and shipping included.
> Any suggestions as to what i should do??


Is there a reason 60C and 49C aren't good enough? Unless you're getting into 70s or 80s, I wouldn't bother fixing what ain't broke.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> this may just come down to personal preference but what do you all recomend or which is better
> DangerDen dream flex
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13729/ex-tub-990/Danger_Den_DreamFlex_Value_Pack_-_Tubing_Clamps_Tube_Cutter_12ID_x_34OD_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s172
> or
> PrimoChill Primoflex Pro
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12807/ex-tub-840/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_12ID_34OD_with_18_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Red_PFLEXP10-34-R.html?tl=g30c99s172
> I want to rerun my tubing with red and change a couple of my regular fittings for 90° and compression to make things a little nicer.
> 
> 
> 
> Its probably just personal preference. I love my PrimoFlex, best tubing I've worked with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> i feel like im in need of another rad or better fans...
> while playing bf3 my gpus hit 49C on stock clocks and my [email protected] hits 60C.
> 48C on the gpu is what i used to get at 900/[email protected] when i only had the one 580 and the cpu topped out at about 56C.
> Im currently running Gelid Wing 12PL 2000RPM fans in Push on an RX480. I used to be ok with them running at 1100rpm, now i have to run them at 2000rpm while gaming (too noisy).
> I have a RS360 collecting dust right now but id have to buy some fans for it and mount it externally (which i dont really feel like doing, but i will if i have to)
> I could invest in better fans for the RX480.
> Theres also the option of buying a 120mm rad and fitting that inside the case.
> I can probably spend about $100 taxes and shipping included.
> Any suggestions as to what i should do??
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is there a reason 60C and 49C aren't good enough? Unless you're getting into 70s or 80s, I wouldn't bother fixing what ain't broke.
Click to expand...

49c on the GPU side is reasonable.

But 60c @stock is a tad high for a CPU under water imho. Bouf might try a re-seat. I don't know anything about the Gelid fans as I've never run them. Might try dialing them back a bit or getting some cheap Yate Loon Medium Speed fans and checking to see if maybe a slower fan with good Static Pressure is what is needed. Also what is the Ambient temp when that temp is achieved? That might have something to do with it too but doubtful as I would think the GPU would exhibit higher C temps if the Ambient was affecting the CPU in that way.









~Ceadder


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> i feel like im in need of another rad or better fans...
> while playing bf3 my gpus hit 49C on stock clocks and my [email protected] hits 60C.
> 48C on the gpu is what i used to get at 900/[email protected] when i only had the one 580 and the cpu topped out at about 56C.
> Im currently running Gelid Wing 12PL 2000RPM fans in Push on an RX480. I used to be ok with them running at 1100rpm, now i have to run them at 2000rpm while gaming (too noisy).
> I have a RS360 collecting dust right now but id have to buy some fans for it and mount it externally (which i dont really feel like doing, but i will if i have to)
> I could invest in better fans for the RX480.
> Theres also the option of buying a 120mm rad and fitting that inside the case.
> I can probably spend about $100 taxes and shipping included.
> Any suggestions as to what i should do??


How long have you been running your water cooling loop and nickel or copper blocks? Also what are you filling your loop with, distilled water or coolant? The only thing I can thing of if your using a copper CPU block you could have some gunk build-up affecting your CPU temps, CPU's are more sensitive to water temp changes than GPU's.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 49c on the GPU side is reasonable.
> But 60c @stock is a tad high for a CPU under water imho. Bouf might try a re-seat. I don't know anything about the Gelid fans as I've never run them. Might try dialing them back a bit or getting some cheap Yate Loon Medium Speed fans and checking to see if maybe a slower fan with good Static Pressure is what is needed. Also what is the Ambient temp when that temp is achieved? That might have something to do with it too but doubtful as I would think the GPU would exhibit higher C temps if the Ambient was affecting the CPU in that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


His CPU is at 4.8, the GPUs are stock.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Its probably just personal preference. I love my PrimoFlex, best tubing I've worked with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a reason 60C and 49C aren't good enough? Unless you're getting into 70s or 80s, I wouldn't bother fixing what ain't broke.


Its just the fact that my temps went up 4-6C on average after adding the second 580.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 49c on the GPU side is reasonable.
> But 60c @stock is a tad high for a CPU under water imho. Bouf might try a re-seat. I don't know anything about the Gelid fans as I've never run them. Might try dialing them back a bit or getting some cheap Yate Loon Medium Speed fans and checking to see if maybe a slower fan with good Static Pressure is what is needed. Also what is the Ambient temp when that temp is achieved? That might have something to do with it too but doubtful as I would think the GPU would exhibit higher C temps if the Ambient was affecting the CPU in that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


60C on the cpu is with the clocks at 4.8ghz - my ambient temps are around 21C. I feel like if my loop was efficient enough i wouldnt have seen a temperature increase after adding a 2nd gpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> How long have you been running your water cooling loop and nickel or copper blocks? Also what are you filling your loop with, distilled water or coolant? The only thing I can thing of if your using a copper CPU block you could have some gunk build-up affecting your CPU temps, CPU's are more sensitive to water temp changes than GPU's.


My gpu blocks are nickle and ive been keeping a very close eye on them since i ran into problems in the past with my first block. All my other blocks are copper (cpu, vrm and ram). I ditched the distilled water after my first nickle block experience galvanic corrosion (dissimilar metal) and the rest of my copper blocks showed bad signs of oxidation. Im now running E-coolant from EK and its all been good ever since, the loop has been running for a couple months now but ive managed to add a 2nd gpu two weeks ago without fully draining my loop (dont ask, it was a disaster lol)


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Its just the fact that my temps went up 4-6C on average after adding the second 580.


You're concerned over ~5C increase when adding a second card that dumps about 250W TDP into the loop?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> You're concerned over ~5C increase when adding a second card that dumps about 250W TDP into the loop?


not reeeaaallyyyy lol

i just like seeing my temps as low and they can go without getting into sub ambient temps with my liquid


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> not reeeaaallyyyy lol
> i just like seeing my temps as low and they can go without getting into sub ambient temps with my liquid


Lol, as long as you're not that silly. If its that big of a deal, add more radiators


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Bouf you B silly.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

yeaaah i guess soo haha

this is why i love this forum, it makes you spend money, but also prevents you from spending it on useless or unneeded things.

Im still eyeballin these fans not sure if id have the room up there with the RX480 and my res... hmm


----------



## skaboy607

I'm after a bit of advice, is this all worth £600? I think it is.

Intel i7 920
GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD3R full sli board(rev. 1.0) motherboard socket 1336.
2 x GTX 460's 1GB
500GB HD
300GB HD
6GB Patriots viper 1600mhz
HAF 922


----------



## kamikaze_

You should look into Sandy Bridge rather than going for an i7 920 with an X58 board. It's a step forward from that old Athlon processor, but then again a step back, because if you're willing to put in a little bit more money, a i5 2500K will be much more worth the money when you're overclocking four cores @ 32nm rather than overclocking a locked multiplier, struggling to get it over 4GHz.

EDIT: Hyper threading really makes no difference to me, 86573 CPU score in 3DMARK Vantage with HT turned on, and 81354 with HT off.


----------



## snelan

Here's mine. This is when I had two 6950 TFIIIs and my D4 pump, but I have two ASUS 7970s on the way now and replaced the aging D4 with a MP355.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> You should look into Sandy Bridge rather than going for an i7 920 with an X58 board. It's a step forward from that old Athlon processor, but then again a step back, because if you're willing to put in a little bit more money, a i5 2500K will be much more worth the money when you're overclocking four cores @ 32nm rather than overclocking a locked multiplier, struggling to get it over 4GHz.
> EDIT: Hyper threading really makes no difference to me, 86573 CPU score in 3DMARK Vantage with HT turned on, and 81354 with HT off.


I know thats probably what I should do but my question was more aimed at...is this a bit of a bargain. I can't afford a i5 2500k with a z58 even though I want it. With the offer above, it will be split between me and a mate so I would only pay £300 and come away with a GTX460 and an i7. Surely in that respect it is worth it.


----------



## wermad

More stuff came in today







(pump, tube, & fans). I made a last minute change (impulse buy







) and hopefully it arrives in time for this weekend.

Though I'm debating what dye to use; uv green or deep purple. I'm running blue led R4s.


----------



## Bouf0010

deep purple! uv green is over done


----------



## morencyam

I agree with Bouf, go purple!


----------



## skaboy607

Purple.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

last uv green rig I saw on here turned/ turning out meh. purple all the way.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> .
> Though I'm debating what dye to use; uv green or deep purple. I'm running blue led R4s.


I thought general rule was dye's are the









I wouldnt mind using a dye over buying red tubing if I knew it wouldnt clog my loop.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> I thought general rule was dye's are the
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldnt mind using a dye over buying red tubing if I knew it wouldnt clog my loop.


Red and blue premixes seem to have the most issues, though do remember that clogging is no guarantee. It has also *never* been proven that it is the dye clogging the blocks. Tubing, lack of cleaning, and other additives seem to never be considered when a new case of "gunk" comes up.

That said, I don't know of any reports of Meyhem's dye being involved with any clogging cases. There have been reports of the dye settling or breaking down however and even then, there may be another explanation (additives causing separation).


----------



## DevilDriver

^^^^ I just run distilled and a silver kill coil nothing else. wonder how "safe" I would be with dye.

has any one used food coloring? is it safe to use?


----------



## derickwm

Ordered 7970 today. Now for some decent looking blocks to come out.


----------



## wermad

I've had Mayhems for a few months and I've also have a few test samples sitting under my desk. I checked these samples and all of the Mayhems and the lone Feser are holding.

So I'm getting nods for deep purple. Seems like an interesting combo


----------



## Galactipuss

My attempt, still under construction.









full build thread log here http://www.overclock.net/t/1195617/project-fear-factory-liquid-inside


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> ^^^^ I just run distilled and a silver kill coil nothing else. wonder how "safe" I would be with dye.
> has any one used food coloring? is it safe to use?


i would stay away from food coloring, it will separate much quicker and it'll end up staining everything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've had Mayhems for a few months and I've also have a few test samples sitting under my desk. I checked these samples and all of the Mayhems and the lone Feser are holding.
> So I'm getting nods for deep purple. Seems like an interesting combo


The blue and the purple will complement each other very well, i feel like the green and blue would fight each other lol.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Galactipuss*
> 
> My attempt, still under construction.
> 
> 
> full build thread log here http://www.overclock.net/t/1195617/project-fear-factory-liquid-inside


Your build will be monster madness. Nice hardware too.


----------



## derickwm

Hmm just noticed Koolance has their block on their website.









Looks sexy. ETA is 6 days. Probs be ordering that to match my RIVE Koolance block.

Koolance


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hmm just noticed Koolance has their block on their website.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks sexy. ETA is 6 days. Probs be ordering that to much my RIVE Koolance block.
> Koolance


If you like EK, they will realease one soon

http://www.overclock.net/t/1190825/first-glimpse-at-the-ek-fc7970/0_30


----------



## derickwm

Not really a fan of how the EK or aquacomputer blocks have looked so far.

As it'll be going on a bench, aesthetics have quite a bit of importance to me. Probs more then they should


----------



## Ceadderman

@Galactipuss... What size is that rear Rad? Doesn't look like any 240 I ever seen. Looks more like a dual 60mm









I have ta say that white gear looks uber smecsy in that DD case.









Yup werm haveta say Purple be the way to go. Should look really sweet with a UV setup.
















Man that new EK block looks sweet. Don't care what anyone says.









~Ceadder


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> yeaaah i guess soo haha
> this is why i love this forum, it makes you spend money, but also prevents you from spending it on useless or unneeded things.
> Im still eyeballin these fans not sure if id have the room up there with the RX480 and my res... hmm


OCN has never helped me keep money in my pocket, but it has helped my efficiency









As for those fans, I can say that they're a complete waste of money. DO NOT BUY! I had terrible luck with them, my Yates pushed more air, took up less space and were at least as quiet...







I sold mine off for 1/2 what I paid and called it a good day. A fun experiment, but not a worthwhile one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> More stuff came in today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (pump, tube, & fans). I made a last minute change (impulse buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and hopefully it arrives in time for this weekend.
> Though I'm debating what dye to use; uv green or deep purple. I'm running blue led R4s.


We'll both have a busy weekend, my AC Airplex 360 arrives tomorrow!!







Ordered over the weekend and it's here all the way from Germany...!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Galactipuss*
> 
> My attempt, still under construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> full build thread log here http://www.overclock.net/t/1195617/project-fear-factory-liquid-inside


Not only am I a fan of Danger Den cases, I LOVE the performance/build quality of Hardware Labs radiators! Sweet white paint job on you GTX360, I like black and white paint schemes to where there is the perfect ratio of both colors! I'll check out your build log, sweet! I'm also surprised that those Danger Den cylinder reservoirs haven't become that popular...?


----------



## Seanage

Yay, I can finally join the club.


----------



## derickwm

Get some Cold Cathodes man! Would look siiiiiiiiiiiick.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup werm haveta say Purple be the way to go. Should look really sweet with a UV setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its not UV reactive sadly, but its not a total loss since its a tight squeeze for the 15" ccfl(s). Can't wait to get this up and running this weekend.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

REDID the LAN rig.
Finally finished.
So I can start work on Rebuilding the main rig. (Board died)


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanage*
> 
> Yay, I can finally join the club.


Not usually a fan of antikink coils, but damn that looks great


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Galactipuss*
> 
> My attempt, still under construction.
> 
> 
> full build thread log here http://www.overclock.net/t/1195617/project-fear-factory-liquid-inside


Dang, what kind of beast are you cooling with a 360 rad and a 160(?) that requires a 1200watt psu?


----------



## snelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Galactipuss*
> 
> My attempt, still under construction.
> 
> full build thread log here http://www.overclock.net/t/1195617/project-fear-factory-liquid-inside


At first I thought those were stickers in the case, then I realized that it was just a display behind it









Nice build dood!


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Not really a fan of how the EK or aquacomputer blocks have looked so far.
> 
> As it'll be going on a bench, aesthetics have quite a bit of importance to me. Probs more then they should


Ek hasn't been on my good side eversince the nickel problem and Aqua because of the high restriction (I think it's for gpu and cpu blocks b/c of the micro channeling). Also, XSPC's Raystorm performs better than EK. Aqua, I don't know about. XSPC for life.









@galactipuss:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CiBi

This thread is the reason I started watercooling...

EK Supreme LTX block
EK XT360 rad
EK DCP 2.2 pump+reservoir combo
6x Nickel EK Compression Fittings
Masterkleer UV reactive white tubing
3x low noise 1650rpm 120mm fans
and thats about it

Here are some pics, still messing arround, i'll post some more pics when its all cleaned up.


----------



## Bouf0010

i noticed that there were still some tiny bubbles in my gpus blocks so i tapped away until they were all gone - temps went down 1-2C.

i then updated my drivers from 285.(whatever the lastest one was) to the latest beta and i dunno if its cause of this but, i immediately noticed another 1-2C drop (maybe it was just more bubbles getting out).

My cpu temps stayed the same but on stock clocks im topping out at 47C but mostly staying at around 46C from my previous max temp of 49C.

I decided to run my OC of 900/[email protected] and now my temps top out at about 52C and my cpu temps went up from 60C to 63C.

I think im gonna hold off on adding another rad to the loop









Im now on the pursuit of a fan that will do the same job as my Gelid Wing12PL 2000rpm but that run at a slower speed and are going to be much quieter.

How do you think these will hold up?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Im now on the pursuit of a fan that will do the same job as my Gelid Wing12PL 2000rpm but that run at a slower speed and are going to be much quieter.
> How do you think these will hold up?


I hear the Gelid fans are pretty decent. If you go with Gentle Typhoons, I'd look around for the AP-15 personally. Seeing how they are performing on setup, I would not want the AP-14s. The 15's work very well, but a little slower and they would have a hard time pushing air through my top 360 rad. I tried the AP-30s first, but they were a little too noisy for my liking, even at their lowest possible speed.

If you do go with the AP-14s, FrozenCPU has them for $3 less per fan, but unsure about shipping or if DazMode is in CAD rather than USD.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Im now on the pursuit of a fan that will do the same job as my Gelid Wing12PL 2000rpm but that run at a slower speed and are going to be much quieter.
> How do you think these will hold up?
> 
> 
> 
> I hear the Gelid fans are pretty decent. If you go with Gentle Typhoons, I'd look around for the AP-15 personally. Seeing how they are performing on setup, I would not want the AP-14s. The 15's work very well, but a little slower and they would have a hard time pushing air through my top 360 rad. I tried the AP-30s first, but they were a little too noisy for my liking, even at their lowest possible speed.
> 
> If you do go with the AP-14s, FrozenCPU has them for $3 less per fan, but unsure about shipping or if DazMode is in CAD rather than USD.
Click to expand...

Hmm how well do the 15s run dialed down a bit?

I have to order from Dazmode or I get nailed with customs - and who knows if I order from frozencpu I might end up with noname fans


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Hmm how well do the 15s run dialed down a bit?
> I have to order from Dazmode or I get nailed with customs - and who knows if I order from frozencpu I might end up with noname fans


Or you can order them from NCIX in Canada. They have a Warehouse and some retail stores in Ontario. Product link: Scythe AP-15


----------



## Seanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Not usually a fan of antikink coils, but damn that looks great


Thanks man, it took hours putting those coils on and space them how I wanted them. I think the results turned out pretty good.


----------



## lowfat

My function over form rebuild of my server. Was getting sick of not having it working.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated (again, haha)


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Updates everywhere


----------



## kamikaze_

Updated brah


----------



## jackofhearts495

That's one hell of a hot-swap setup, Lowfat


----------



## cyberbeat

so why do you watercool the GPU in the server?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberbeat*
> 
> so why do you watercool the GPU in the server?


Already had it. Plus I am going to fold with it.


----------



## cyberbeat

ahh cool, thought it had to be something like that.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Or you can order them from NCIX in Canada. They have a Warehouse and some retail stores in Ontario. Product link: Scythe AP-15


Price match w/ this.

http://www.computers-canada.ca/store/search/?newdepartmentid=0&kw=gentle&search=Search


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Price match w/ this.
> http://www.computers-canada.ca/store/search/?newdepartmentid=0&kw=gentle&search=Search


Nice find


----------



## senslessenigma

XSPC Rasa RS240 with Scythe Slipstream fans. Sorry for the low quality pictures, all I had to take them with was my iPhone.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Won`t be watercooling my new system right off the bat like I had hoped. Looks like I`ll be aircooling until I get enough $$$ for a decent CPU and GPU loop together.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Won`t be watercooling my new system right off the bat like I had hoped. Looks like I`ll be aircooling until I get enough $$$ for a decent CPU and GPU loop together.


Rasa kit: $129

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30187

Rasa gpu uni block: $59 (comes with two free barbs

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_587&products_id=29841

Total (before shipping): $188

Add some heatsinks for the gpu block. You could get everything for under $250.

Another method is to get a couple of used H50 kits and adapt one to the gpu. Its been done before with good results. You can find used H50s for under $50. Personally, I would go with the Rasa kit or a custom loop if you can save up for one.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> i noticed that there were still some tiny bubbles in my gpus blocks so i tapped away until they were all gone - temps went down 1-2C.
> i then updated my drivers from 285.(whatever the lastest one was) to the latest beta and i dunno if its cause of this but, i immediately noticed another 1-2C drop (maybe it was just more bubbles getting out).
> My cpu temps stayed the same but on stock clocks im topping out at 47C but mostly staying at around 46C from my previous max temp of 49C.
> I decided to run my OC of 900/[email protected] and now my temps top out at about 52C and my cpu temps went up from 60C to 63C.
> I think im gonna hold off on adding another rad to the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im now on the pursuit of a fan that will do the same job as my Gelid Wing12PL 2000rpm but that run at a slower speed and are going to be much quieter.
> How do you think these will hold up?


I've heard good things about the Typhoons. I went with the Noctua NF-P12's.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6661/fan-399/Noctua_NF-P12_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_543_CFM_at_19_dBA.html

54.3CFM @ 19dBA seemed pretty good for me. Definitely the most expensive fans I've ever owned though, lol.


----------



## senslessenigma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I've heard good things about the Typhoons. I went with the Noctua NF-P12's.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6661/fan-399/Noctua_NF-P12_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_543_CFM_at_19_dBA.html
> 54.3CFM @ 19dBA seemed pretty good for me. Definitely the most expensive fans I've ever owned though, lol.


I've heard good things about the typhoons as well. I went with slipstreams and put them on a fan controller so I could keep the noise down when I didn't want to hear them. They're nearly silent on the lowest setting and bearable all the way up to about 75%.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Updates everywhere


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Updated brah


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I've heard good things about the Typhoons. I went with the Noctua NF-P12's.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6661/fan-399/Noctua_NF-P12_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_543_CFM_at_19_dBA.html
> 54.3CFM @ 19dBA seemed pretty good for me. Definitely the most expensive fans I've ever owned though, lol.


yeah i just cant swallow that color scheme pill lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Price match w/ this.
> http://www.computers-canada.ca/store/search/?newdepartmentid=0&kw=gentle&search=Search


thanks! i was too lazy to do the pricematch thing so i just ordered directly off their site.

Forked up a little extra $$ so i can get them by tmr







$75 for 4 AP-15s with taxes and UPS air shipping - not bad at all


----------



## Alatar

Some pics of my latest upgrade. I also have an EK block for the RIVE ordered, along with some extra rad. Should arrive before the end of the month, hopefully...


----------



## Los Hog

Wow nice rack you have there


----------



## Boyboyd

That is an incredibly tech station. What's it made of? Looks like wood from here.


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Wow nice rack you have there


thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> That is an incredibly tech station. What's it made of? Looks like wood from here.


Yeah it's made of plywood. Cheap plywood lol









I was bored during the summer so I kind of just put it together somehow. Annoying to build but I was pretty pleased with the results.


----------



## Boyboyd

I know tech stations aren't meant to be neat, but that looks way neater than most.

You should be proud.


----------



## DevilDriver

I'm going to be ordering tubing and some fittings soon, in light of recent events which U.S. etailer do you all recommend?
Was going to use FZCPU not sure now.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> yeah i just cant swallow that color scheme pill lol
> thanks! i was too lazy to do the pricematch thing so i just ordered directly off their site.
> Forked up a little extra $$ so i can get them by tmr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $75 for 4 AP-15s with taxes and UPS air shipping - not bad at all


Yeah, they have one of the worst color schemes ever, lol. I just put them where no one would really see them. I almost thought about painting them, but didn't know where to start on a fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> I'm going to be ordering tubing and some fittings soon, in light of recent events which U.S. etailer do you all recommend?
> Was going to use FZCPU not sure now.


You know what they say about reviews... You hear 10 complaints while there's a million satisfactions. Hell, I've heard complaints about just about every retailer ever (except MDPC, just their shipping, but its from Germany, so w/e). If we stopped shopping somewhere because people had bad experiences occasionally we wouldn't shop anywhere









I've dealt with both Performance-PCs and FrozenCPU. Neither is particularly better than the other. They both charge outrageous shipping amounts, but I'm not gonna complain about shipping as long as it gets here quickly (my package I rush ordered and got here exactly when I hoped from FrozenCPU). There's some other sites people recommend but every time I go on them I can't ever find what I was looking for, lol. Honestly, just pick whichever has better prices.


----------



## chewdude

Wanted to get my latest build in the club. Here are a few pics.
And I wanted to say thanks to a few of you-you know who you are Los and others for the help and guidance that you have shown on the boards here. there is allot of people that help and never get the recognition for it. So thanks to the guys that say the same stuff over and over and still keep cool. good group of people here.


----------



## tipo33

nothing like the guy above me, but I just put together my first water loop.

Still need some work...
Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1150779/build-log-linux-li-almost-done/20#post_16175536


----------



## derickwm

Some progress on my latest build:



















Phobya Radiator Stand
3x EX360 rads
18x GT AP-15s
6x ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 3-Way Block

Build log in sig

Should be finished tomorrow afternoon. Tons of more pictures to come of course


----------



## cyberbeat

^ I've gotta get myself one of those!


----------



## Boyboyd

That is awesome.

My long-term watercooling plan is to have my pump / rads / fans in the next room. Where it's always 15 degrees.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Wait I already have the Antec H20 620, does that make me a member?


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Wait I already have the Antec H20 620, does that make me a member?


yes


----------



## Seanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Some pics of my latest upgrade. I also have an EK block for the RIVE ordered, along with some extra rad. Should arrive before the end of the month, hopefully...


Have you considered applying multipler layers of paint and/or sanding? I saw that the paint looks uneven in areas. The station looks great, but I love it more if the paint was a bit cleaner.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ramkatral

Alright, well, here is my MOSTLY final product, though the jury is still out on whether I am gonna keep this loop order or not.


----------



## jaywar

My Corsair H80


----------



## wermad




----------



## Kolovrat

Nothing "Extreme" but works!
Corsair H100 with 2 water tanks and extra 120' radiator which going to be replaced with 240' rad.
Works for now and soon will add VGA block and 360' rad at the back.


----------



## Angrybutcher

^ just curious, why the two reservoirs?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> ^ just curious, why the two reservoirs?


or even better? Why not a "custom" loop, ie get rid of the H100 pump/block

Cant imagine having that pump on a dual rad setup with a GPU and CPU in the loop. pump will be overworked and likely fail after a while


----------



## Kfizzle

My first time water cooling build(800D). Didn't get too fancy with being my first build(wiring for example) but will do on the next one.

Loop is XSPC dual bay Res/Pump>GTX140(push/pull NB 1700rpm's)>GPU>GPU>CPU>GTX360(push/pull ap15's)>Res/Pump Temps are pretty good(56-59 deg on the CPU 100% load and 45 deg on the GPU's 100% usage). Was thinking of changing the loop to put the GTX360 seperating the CPU from the GPU's, I would expect a bit better temps on the cpu that way but not sure.

Only mod done to the case was an extra hole near the ps so I could avoid using 45 or 90 deg barbs(still using two 45's on the GTX140). The first Bitspower 90 deg barb I used leaked so I lost trust quick in anything but straight barbs. lol

As for the all the Anti-Kink. I found the once the loop is running and hot the 7/16 ID primochill gets really soft, the Anit-Kink helped with my worries of a random kink happening while i am away from the pc while its running.

Much thanks to everyone on OC.NET. I haven't posted much but got almost all of my information/knowledge from lurking around these forums.


----------



## Kolovrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> ^ just curious, why the two reservoirs?


More liquid the lower overall temperature
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> or even better? Why not a "custom" loop, ie get rid of the H100 pump/block
> Cant imagine having that pump on a dual rad setup with a GPU and CPU in the loop. pump will be overworked and likely fail after a while


Each reservoir got own pump 200' + block got own pump
I keep H100 block to control 4 fans speed and pump speed as well if I need silent environment


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolovrat*
> 
> More liquid the lower overall temperature
> Each reservoir got own pump 200' + block got own pump
> I keep H100 block to control 4 fans speed and pump speed as well if I need silent environment


Doesnt matter how much liquid you have, its all gonna balance out over time and you'll end up with the same temps.

I dont think i understand whats going on with the h100 - you have 2 pumps running along with the h100?


----------



## Kolovrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Doesnt matter how much liquid you have, its all gonna balance out over time and you'll end up with the same temps.
> I dont think i understand whats going on with the h100 - you have 2 pumps running along with the h100?


Each radiator serves by own pump from each reservoir.
from H100 to --reservoir/pump1---120'radiator---reservoir/pump2---240'radiator---H100
H100 got 3 settings lower-medium-fast and custom if needed.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolovrat*
> 
> Each radiator serves by own pump from each reservoir.
> from H100 to --reservoir/pump1---120'radiator---reservoir/pump2---240'radiator---H100
> H100 got 3 settings lower-medium-fast and custom if needed.


yeah but those 3 settings are useless if you have 2 other pumps pushing liquid through it.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolovrat*
> 
> Each radiator serves by own pump from each reservoir.
> from H100 to --reservoir/pump1---120'radiator---reservoir/pump2---240'radiator---H100
> H100 got 3 settings lower-medium-fast and custom if needed.


That's quite a "complex" setup for a simple CPU loop. BUT, this is OCN afterall









Any reason for using 3 pumps?


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> I dont think i understand whats going on with the h100 - you have 2 pumps running along with the h100?


Hahahaha.


----------



## Kolovrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> That's quite a "complex" setup for a simple CPU loop. BUT, this is OCN afterall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any reason for using 3 pumps?


You right as I said before I will add VGA block and 360' radiator later, just at the moment I don't have all parts.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolovrat*
> 
> You right as I said before I will add VGA block and 360' radiator later, just at the moment I don't have all parts.


whatever works for ya man

i would have spent my money a little differently though
- h100 -> nice cpu block
-2nd pump -> gpu block
-2nd res -> bigger tubing and fittings


----------



## Kolovrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> whatever works for ya man
> i would have spent my money a little differently though
> - h100 -> nice cpu block
> -2nd pump -> gpu block
> -2nd res -> bigger tubing and fittings


I know what you mean but
H100 I got 6 months ago
each reservoir with pump xspc 200lph=$30 only
money wise your plan is more expensive


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

I think i might stick with my silver fittings for my next build afterall and go with black tubing or a blood red dye. What do you guys think about using 7/16 5/8 tubing on 1/2 3/4 compressions? I know people do it a lot on barbs, but haven't seen it much on compressions...


----------



## ramkatral

It won't work on 1/2 ID compressions. The piece you have to stretch the hose over is too wide. Besides, it's pointless. The larger 3/4 OD hose looks better and beefier, and the compressions for it hold it plenty snug.


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Some pics of my latest upgrade. I also have an EK block for the RIVE ordered, along with some extra rad. Should arrive before the end of the month, hopefully...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you considered applying multipler layers of paint and/or sanding? I saw that the paint looks uneven in areas. The station looks great, but I love it more if the paint was a bit cleaner.
Click to expand...

Yeah I have actually. Just haven't had the time to do it.


----------



## LiquidHaus

changed things up a bit


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> It won't work on 1/2 ID compressions. The piece you have to stretch the hose over is too wide. Besides, it's pointless. The larger 3/4 OD hose looks better and beefier, and the compressions for it hold it plenty snug.


Well I'm wanting to use 7/16 5/8 tubing (and possibly barbs) for the better flexability. I like the size of the 1/2 3/4 but it's a pita to use on tight spots like cpu/ram blocks >.>.


----------



## ramkatral

So get 7/16 compressions.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> I'm going to be ordering tubing and some fittings soon, in light of recent events which U.S. etailer do you all recommend?
> Was going to use FZCPU not sure now.
> 
> 
> 
> You know what they say about reviews... You hear 10 complaints while there's a million satisfactions. Hell, I've heard complaints about just about every retailer ever (except MDPC, just their shipping, but its from Germany, so w/e). If we stopped shopping somewhere because people had bad experiences occasionally we wouldn't shop anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've dealt with both Performance-PCs and FrozenCPU. Neither is particularly better than the other. They both charge outrageous shipping amounts, but I'm not gonna complain about shipping as long as it gets here quickly (my package I rush ordered and got here exactly when I hoped from FrozenCPU). There's some other sites people recommend but every time I go on them I can't ever find what I was looking for, lol. Honestly, just pick whichever has better prices.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm guessing he is talking about Performance-PCs and FrozenCPU being deceptive about the G-Vans and Lamptron products. Both companies did some dishonest things and FrozenCPU acted, we'll lets say, less than professional about it. I'm not trying to bring the whole G-Vans vs Lamptron thing in here, but as a past customer of them I can not support Performance-PCs or FrozenCPU anymore.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1195612/official-statement-regarding-g-vans-knock-off-controllers-products
> 
> FrozenCPU joined in on page 18 but I suggest reading the whole thing, but in a nut shell there was edited reviews, false awards, photoshopped pics, and lies.
Click to expand...


----------



## Bradey

here's my mATX build

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199570/my-new-matx-build#post_16184334


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradey*
> 
> here's my mATX build
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199570/my-new-matx-build#post_16184334


you must post the pics here in this thread for me to add you to the list


----------



## Bradey

here's my mATX build









http://ocau.com/pix/sj6af








http://ocau.com/pix/nujy5








http://ocau.com/pix/3v0b8


----------



## yuisporing

Can I finally join the club?!



Going to take some sexier pictures tomorrow with my friend's DSLR :3~


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yuisporing*
> 
> Can I finally join the club?!
> 
> Going to take some sexier pictures tomorrow with my friend's DSLR :3~


Yea, I guess we'll think about it.









Looks good.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yuisporing*
> 
> Can I finally join the club?!
> [
> Going to take some sexier pictures tomorrow with my friend's DSLR :3~


How's your pump? Mine is a complete rattle can







. Going to wait for xspc rma and I'm hoping they will send a replacement.

Lovely build. I've always loved the white 600T


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## yuisporing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How's your pump? Mine is a complete rattle can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Going to wait for xspc rma and I'm hoping they will send a replacement.
> Lovely build. I've always loved the white 600T


Thanks!So far dead silent so far and I'm hoping it will stay that way. I've heard about them failing but I'll keep my fingers crossed, at least until I decide to upgrade the pump/res or something but that will be while down, lol.


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yuisporing*
> 
> Thanks!So far dead silent so far and I'm hoping it will stay that way. I've heard about them failing but I'll keep my fingers crossed, at least until I decide to upgrade the pump/res or something but that will be while down, lol.


mine just failed yesterday


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> mine just failed yesterday


yeah those things are a pile of poo


----------



## wermad

Finally got some good (or decent) looking pics. One of the R4 is being rma and the pump is crap and its also being rma'd. I have to say the Mayhems Deep Purple looks awesome







. Thanks for all those who chose that over the uv green. It really compliments the blue R4s. Now to see if I can find some purple led


----------



## Los Hog

Looking good ! What happend to the H2 case?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Looking good ! What happend to the H2 case?


Sold it. Too much case for a cpu and a couple of gpus.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally got some good (or decent) looking pics. One of the R4 is being rma and the pump is crap and its also being rma'd. I have to say the Mayhems Deep Purple looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks for all those who chose that over the uv green. It really compliments the blue R4s. Now to see if I can find some purple led


Mmmm Purple - looks good with the Black


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

wermad - does that sleeve have some purple in it or is that just reflection on black sleeve?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> wermad - does that sleeve have some purple in it or is that just reflection on black sleeve?


Just the reflection from the coolant. Its FurryLetter's TechFlex clean-cut black


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just the reflection from the coolant. Its FurryLetter's TechFlex clean-cut black


same sleeve I have


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> wermad - does that sleeve have some purple in it or is that just reflection on black sleeve?


I was gonna ask that too, would be an awesome sleeve if it did







(still looks awesome because its sleeving







)


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> It won't work on 1/2 ID compressions. The piece you have to stretch the hose over is too wide. Besides, it's pointless. The larger 3/4 OD hose looks better and beefier, and the compressions for it hold it plenty snug.


With compression fittings it's not the barb that's the problem, it's the compresion ring. The fittings are designed with an exact tolerance between the ring that clamps down and the integrated barb. By messing with the ID size the fitting won't tighten properly. YMMV, but I definitely don't suggest trying it.

Putting 7/16 x 5/8" tubing over 1/2" barbs is no problem though, I run that in my rig without clamps. Personally I like the look of the tubing with minimal fittings just tubing and blocks, so I ditched my compressions and went to barbs with the tubing stretched over them.

@wermad, great looking build! Seems strange to see you with such a small case though









In other news, I got my AquaComputer AMS Airplex 360 squeezed in last night, I'll get some pics up soon. The thing is a beast! It's exactly the width of the 800D drive cage, so it took some persuasion to get it in, but it looks great. Brushed stainless sides against my blue paint







The build quality is also out of this world, AC definitely has my business on future products- everything about the radiator was so precise and just 'works'. I did discover that several of my legacy EK barbs have started flaking so I will be replacing them soon with some BP Fat Boys and wiping my hands of EK for good. My next generation of blocks will not be from Slovenia, but probably from Germany...


----------



## bomberjun




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Wow nice rack you have there










That statement coupled with your Avvy made me think of something dirty. Sucked I couldn't find the post you were referring to.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kolovrat*
> 
> You right as I said before I will add VGA block and 360' radiator later, just at the moment I don't have all parts.
> 
> 
> 
> whatever works for ya man
> 
> i would have spent my money a little differently though
> - h100 -> nice cpu block
> -2nd pump -> gpu block
> -2nd res -> bigger tubing and fittings
Click to expand...

Some of us that chose to dip our toes into watercooling rather than jumping in w/o looking or sampling the water would agree to disagree. I myself went with the H50 to check it out. I sold the H50 rather than cut it up. But some people would rather get the most out of their equipment and it works for him so I don't see the need to be snarky about it. He'll replace as he goes rather than all at once.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> It won't work on 1/2 ID compressions. The piece you have to stretch the hose over is too wide. Besides, it's pointless. The larger 3/4 OD hose looks better and beefier, and the compressions for it hold it plenty snug.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I'm wanting to use 7/16 5/8 tubing (and possibly barbs) for the better flexability. I like the size of the 1/2 3/4 but it's a pita to use on tight spots like cpu/ram blocks >.>.
Click to expand...

Yeah no, the compression ring won't put any pressure on the OD of the tubing to lock it in place. Might as well stick with Barbs if you want to go this route.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Looking good ! What happend to the H2 case?
> 
> 
> 
> Sold it. Too much case for a cpu and a couple of gpus.
Click to expand...

Heheh now is the time where you kinda wished you'da held onto the 932.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hogwasher

@cedderman ready for the Niners game today? It's going to be a good game!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> @cedderman ready for the Niners game today? It's going to be a good game!


Hell YEAHs I am!!! Shades of '81 are lookin good to me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dwhite56

Since you'r all water-cooling geniuses and i'm newer to it, can anyone please put together a complete watercoolig setup for my rig that would best cool the CPU and 2 6950's (non reference, I'm getting a second MSI). I don't really care about the noise to much although a quiet setup would be nice. I know that i'm new to this but don't base your suggestion on that, I have a lot of help







, Thanks!


----------



## ramkatral

Why not research and come up with it yourself? That's half the fun. Then post it on here for critique.


----------



## Dwhite56

I have researched it...ALOT, but I wanna hear what you people who really know what you'r doing think without limiting you to commenting on what i find


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwhite56*
> 
> Since you'r all water-cooling geniuses and i'm newer to it, can anyone please put together a complete watercoolig setup for my rig that would best cool the CPU and 2 6950's (non reference, I'm getting a second MSI). I don't really care about the noise to much although a quiet setup would be nice. I know that i'm new to this but don't base your suggestion on that, I have a lot of help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Thanks!


Look into the XSPC rasa kits. You would do well with the 240 kit with another 240 rad (or a 360 and 240 or the 360 kit and an extra 120). I'd recommend the RX kit if you can fit that thick of a rad, but the extra rad could be the EX because it's cheaper and performs pretty awesomely. Get push and pull fans on them. Get the 6950 blocks (I didn't know they made non reference blocks). You'd be pretty much set (gotta buy all the extra fittings and what not). That's about $450-550. You might be able to find some good deals in the marketplace.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> @wermad, great looking build! Seems strange to see you with such a small case though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news, I got my AquaComputer AMS Airplex 360 squeezed in last night, I'll get some pics up soon. The thing is a beast! It's exactly the width of the 800D drive cage, so it took some persuasion to get it in, but it looks great. Brushed stainless sides against my blue paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The build quality is also out of this world, AC definitely has my business on future products- everything about the radiator was so precise and just 'works'. I did discover that several of my legacy EK barbs have started flaking so I will be replacing them soon with some BP Fat Boys and wiping my hands of EK for good. My next generation of blocks will not be from Slovenia, but probably from Germany...


My wife says the same thing







. I wanted to pick up a new bigger case but they sold quickly in the f/s. I like this case as it packs quite a bit of water cooling hardware in it. My temps are actually a bit better but I think its because of the R4s (even though I'm missing one).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Heheh now is the time where you kinda wished you'da held onto the 932.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nah, unless it was the 932 BE or Adv. or the haf-x. I love having a black interior and tbh, this case is a lot more thought out than the 932. Maybe, maybe







, I'll switch to a new case when the opportunity arises. For now, I'm really impressed with this one so far.


----------



## Los Hog

*"@wermad, great looking build! Seems strange to see you with such a small case"*

Hmmm I better not say anything


----------



## jackofhearts495

Hey Wermad, any trouble with that RX240 rad in the bottom in your 690 II? I was thinking about putting one in to cool my 6950.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Hey Wermad, any trouble with that RX240 rad in the bottom in your 690 II? I was thinking about putting one in to cool my 6950.


Nope. Actually, there's enough space down there for an RX240 with push/pull. The tricky one was the RS120, as I have the fan in push and I need to clear its fan and the top rs240. Luckily, phobya makes a nice slim angled fitting that cleared with a hair of space left.


----------



## ramkatral

The RX depends on the PSU. Look at my pics. I have the same case, and my RS barely barely fit. My PSU is longer.


----------



## Philliesfan

@wermad


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally got some good (or decent) looking pics. One of the R4 is being rma and the pump is crap and its also being rma'd. I have to say the Mayhems Deep Purple looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks for all those who chose that over the uv green. It really compliments the blue R4s. Now to see if I can find some purple led






I really like this build get more pics up when you get the lighting done


----------



## Eviang

Hi guys!

I finally finished (kinda) my first water cooling setup. I had to buy a new case just to fit it all in and I picked up the Corsair Obsidian 800D.

It is a single loop with a 360 rad to cool both my CPU and GPU. I really wanted to make a build log out of this but considering I was so happy building it I didn't even want to stop for pictures hehe.

There's a LOT of cable managment to do but I'll do it when I finally change to the 6XX series from NVIDIA. Right now I'm happy with the mess









I've tried to use white-only as a color but now that I see it, I don't really like it so next time I'll also change tubing or maybe add some dye. I'll also change the fans to match. Right now they're... white lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> @cedderman ready for the Niners game today? It's going to be a good game!
> 
> 
> 
> Hell YEAHs I am!!! Shades of '81 are lookin good to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Smith had one hell of a Montana moment to nail down the win.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Smith had one hell of a Montana moment to nail down the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Most stressful game ever!!!


----------



## Jerm1970

I feel ashamed given the beauty and ingenuity of most of these. Though I am not worthy, I'm going to post none the less.


----------



## Seventh Badger

Just finished this build a few days ago







.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Smith had one hell of a Montana moment to nail down the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most stressful game ever!!!
Click to expand...

yes it was, its going to be a week before I fully recover from that game, GO NINERS!!


----------



## Saancho

So this is my First water cooling build as well as my first PC build from scratch. hope u guys like it!

some of the parts you see are as follows (just from off top my head)

~Swftech D5 pump
~Feser UV white 1/2" ID tubing
~Bitspower Matte black compression fittings
~FrozenQ 250ml resivoir (white and black helix)
~Hiper UV white 120mm case fans
~XSPC 360 radiator
~EK Supreme HF full copper CPU water block


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saancho*
> 
> So this is my First water cooling build as well as my first PC build from scratch. hope u guys like it!http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/698286/width/600/height/450/flags/


You should re-route the 4-pin and change that SATA out for black or white.

Besides that, it looks pretty awesome


----------



## Saancho

Thank you TheJesus...im planning to upgrade the PSU soon and tweaking some more on the cables, also the sata cables will be white.


----------



## yuisporing

Wanted to post some better pics , heheh ~


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saancho*
> 
> Thank you TheJesus...im planning to upgrade the PSU soon and tweaking some more on the cables, also the sata cables will be white.


Dude get a Full Coverage block(s) for that board and you can drop the four 120mm fans off the door and save your hearing.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## manu97416

What case do u guys recommend
I wanna build a wc system might get a kit
What's the best kit out there ? I currently have the antec DF-85 case and was told that even the h100 rad doesn't fit.. Should I save up and make a custom loop with a bigger case?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> What case do u guys recommend
> I wanna build a wc system might get a kit
> What's the best kit out there ? I currently have the antec DF-85 case and was told that even the h100 rad doesn't fit.. Should I save up and make a custom loop with a bigger case?


Dunno who's blowing smoke up yer bum, but I just went to look at your Case on Newegg and you should have plenty of room for the Radiator of the H100. The top is kinda worrisome but 2x140? Something should be able to be done to mount the Radiator up top if you've a mind to do that and the 2x120 in the back seems like it should work w/o issue. Especially if you mount the fans to the case and the Radiator to the fans. Depending on your choice of Mainboard and where you install your peripheral cards at. I really don't see your case being so much of a problem you can't mount a 2x120mm Radiator. I could be wrong but the devil being in the details, I don't see it.









As far as kits go they all have their merits but I would definitely look at the Rasa or the Swiftec kits. with your 2x120 setup in back that's what I would look for get a reasonable 2x120 kit and go from there to start.









~Ceadder


----------



## loki_reborn

You could modify your existing case if you are handy with a dremel, or even make an external rad box for your case to sit on like I have,


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> What case do u guys recommend
> I wanna build a wc system might get a kit
> What's the best kit out there ? I currently have the antec DF-85 case and was told that even the h100 rad doesn't fit.. Should I save up and make a custom loop with a bigger case?
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno who's blowing smoke up yer bum, but I just went to look at your Case on Newegg and you should have plenty of room for the Radiator of the H100. The top is kinda worrisome but 2x140? Something should be able to be done to mount the Radiator up top if you've a mind to do that and the 2x120 in the back seems like it should work w/o issue. Especially if you mount the fans to the case and the Radiator to the fans. Depending on your choice of Mainboard and where you install your peripheral cards at. I really don't see your case being so much of a problem you can't mount a 2x120mm Radiator. I could be wrong but the devil being in the details, I don't see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as kits go they all have their merits but I would definitely look at the Rasa or the Swiftec kits. with your 2x120 setup in back that's what I would look for get a reasonable 2x120 kit and go from there to start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

So to put the rad in the back do I need to take out the fans that are there and mount the rad
Sorry if I'm annoying Im just starting to learn to build a pc ...


----------



## Galactipuss

got a bit done. filled her up and ran the pump, so far so good no leaks, I really like how quite it is the only fan u could actually hear is from the PS


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Galactipuss*
> 
> got a bit done. filled her up and ran the pump, so far so good no leaks, I really like how quite it is the only fan u could actually hear is from the PS


Do you even have any fans on the rads?


----------



## bomberjun

Processor: 2nd generation Intel Core i7 2600K
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z68 UD7 B3
RAM: Corsair Dominator GT 2000mhz @2133mhz OC 2gb x 4 (8gb)
Graphics Cards: EVGA GTX 580 Superclocked Three way SLI
Powersupply: Corsair AX1200watts
Solid State Drive: Corsair force F40 Sata II SSD 40gb x4 RAID 0
Hard Disk Drive: 2TB Western Caviar Black 64mb cache x2 RAID 1
Casing: Corsair Obsidian 800D Full tower case
Optical Drive: Pioneer x16
Fan Controllers: NZXT LE and NZXT Sentry 2
Fans: 6 Thermaltake Thunderblade 2000RPM, 6 Yateloon 2200RPM for radiators.

Watercooling:
EK HF Supreme 360 CPU waterblock
EK Z68 Acetal + Nickle EN Motherboard Block
EK Coolstream 360 Radiators x2
EK Dominator Ram waterblock
EK FC 580 Videocard waterblock x3
EK GTX 580 Videocard plates x3
EK FC Parallel Link x3
EK FC Three way SLI Parrallel flow Bridge
EK DCP 4.0 Pump
EK 150 Multioption Reservior(basic)
Black Ice 120mm Radiator
High flex black tubings 3/8 5/8
Bitspower Black Sparkle Compression fittings (32pcs)
Bitspower Angled fittings x10
XSPC Passthrough fittngs


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> The RX depends on the PSU. Look at my pics. I have the same case, and my RS barely barely fit. My PSU is longer.


This is true, though if your psu is mudular, then all the connectors will be spread out and a 160mm (6.3") long psu will have a tough time with any 240mm rad. Now, you can omit the bottom 240 rad mounting holes and push the rad a bit forward for about 10mm of space but there's the possibility of running into clearance issues with the front fan (especially the stock 140mm). What I have seen is the fans placed beneath the rad and that creates a gap to run your cables. My solution was to get a smaller psu. I found this decent GX750 from CM; I know its not the best or highest regarded 750w psu but it got decent reviews and so far I've had no issues. The biggest plus is its 5.5" length to clear the RX240. Lastly, since the stock bottom rad mounting holes position the bottom rad towards the side of the case, this leaves a gap on the right side of the case to route the fixed cables that are already positioned there as well on the psu. There's a few ways to get around clearance issues with a bottom rad and the psu. I even thought about adding a psu extender but that was a mod I wanted to avoid.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philliesfan*
> 
> @wermad
> I really like this build get more pics up when you get the lighting done


I suck at taking pics but I'll see what I can do in getting better pics. Btw, since the Mayhems deep purple dye is non uv reactive I'm skipping the uv lights. Mayhems does have a mixing method of its deep purple, plus uv pink and uv clearr/blue to make a uv purple but I don't want to deal with the hassle of installing the ccfls


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> What case do u guys recommend
> I wanna build a wc system might get a kit
> What's the best kit out there ? I currently have the antec DF-85 case and was told that even the h100 rad doesn't fit.. Should I save up and make a custom loop with a bigger case?
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno who's blowing smoke up yer bum, but I just went to look at your Case on Newegg and you should have plenty of room for the Radiator of the H100. The top is kinda worrisome but 2x140? Something should be able to be done to mount the Radiator up top if you've a mind to do that and the 2x120 in the back seems like it should work w/o issue. Especially if you mount the fans to the case and the Radiator to the fans. Depending on your choice of Mainboard and where you install your peripheral cards at. I really don't see your case being so much of a problem you can't mount a 2x120mm Radiator. I could be wrong but the devil being in the details, I don't see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as kits go they all have their merits but I would definitely look at the Rasa or the Swiftec kits. with your 2x120 setup in back that's what I would look for get a reasonable 2x120 kit and go from there to start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So to put the rad in the back do I need to take out the fans that are there and mount the rad
> Sorry if I'm annoying Im just starting to learn to build a pc ...
Click to expand...

Sorta. You will have to remove the fan screws but the H100 will come with screws long enough to mount the Rad with the fans in place. You just take out 3 of the screws from each fan to keep the fan in place and you secure them and then replace the fan screws with the screws for the H100 system. It's all rather pedestrian when you understand what you're up against really. The only thing you must figure out is if you want the fans set up to Intake or Exhaust and try to get the tubes for the Rad set to the bottom to trap any air in the system in the top of the Rad where it won't cycle back into the system since air rises in liquid. Being a sealed system it's a tad bit different than if you were to build your own loop.









And no worries Mate questions are why we all do what we do in some capacity or other.









~Ceadder


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yuisporing*
> 
> Wanted to post some better pics , heheh ~


It's so neat. Nice work.

Being subscribed to this thread has inspired me to re-do mine in the near future. possibly when I get my replacement motherboard. Going to make the 240 rad fit down below, and install a better pump with a fill/drain line. Draining the loop at the moment is akin to brain surgery.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> This thread is the reason I started watercooling...
> EK Supreme LTX block
> EK XT360 rad
> EK DCP 2.2 pump+reservoir combo
> 6x Nickel EK Compression Fittings
> Masterkleer UV reactive white tubing
> 3x low noise 1650rpm 120mm fans
> and thats about it
> Here are some pics, still messing arround, i'll post some more pics when its all cleaned up.





Apparently a 360 rad for a 1090t only is overkill... I love watercooling!


----------



## HOTDOGS

The more I look at it I can't justify the $100 extra dollars for getting an 800D over the 650D. Like hotswappable bays are pretty cool but strictly from a water cooling point of view (without modding) it can only take a 360 and a 120/140 where the 650d can take a 240 and 140/180. So what's the difference between space for cable routing, tubing and an extra 120 of radiator? I really want to get a nice future proof case that I won't need to mod or paint.


----------



## Rognin

Love my 650D, but I modded the crap out of it. Had I of known I would have bought an M8 back then. The 800D with modding does a better job then the 650D. But if you don't like big cases, then go for it.

I managed to stuff a crapton of stuff in mine and it doesn't look too crowded (well yes in comparison to a Caselabs, but what doesn't?).


----------



## Saancho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dude get a Full Coverage block(s) for that board and you can drop the four 120mm fans off the door and save your hearing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


thanks ceadder, this is a work in progress. i currently have 11 of those fans in my case and i can barely hear it. so the fan noise isnt a problem to me, but yes eventually i will be adding some more water blocks. probably when i purchase twin 560ti's.


----------



## Galactipuss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Do you even have any fans on the rads?


Yes, there are 3 fans up front between the case and the radiator.


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sorta. You will have to remove the fan screws but the H100 will come with screws long enough to mount the Rad with the fans in place. You just take out 3 of the screws from each fan to keep the fan in place and you secure them and then replace the fan screws with the screws for the H100 system. It's all rather pedestrian when you understand what you're up against really. The only thing you must figure out is if you want the fans set up to Intake or Exhaust and try to get the tubes for the Rad set to the bottom to trap any air in the system in the top of the Rad where it won't cycle back into the system since air rises in liquid. Being a sealed system it's a tad bit different than if you were to build your own loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no worries Mate questions are why we all do what we do in some capacity or other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I opened a thread with questions about the watercooling and i got recommendations for the rasa rx kit.... might get that
btw whats the difference between the rx240 and the rs360?


----------



## Galactipuss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Do you even have any fans on the rads?


there in there


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My wife says the same thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I wanted to pick up a new bigger case but they sold quickly in the f/s. I like this case as it packs quite a bit of water cooling hardware in it. My temps are actually a bit better but I think its because of the R4s (even though I'm missing one).
> Nah, unless it was the 932 BE or Adv. or the haf-x. I love having a black interior and tbh, this case is a lot more thought out than the 932. Maybe, maybe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I'll switch to a new case when the opportunity arises. For now, I'm really impressed with this one so far.


How do you like the R4s compared to Yates or GTs? I'm still on the hook for the GT group buy, but I'm weighing my options right now. I'm currently running Yates, but I want a little more push for the same noise level... YL 120SH turned down low on my fan controller.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sorta. You will have to remove the fan screws but the H100 will come with screws long enough to mount the Rad with the fans in place. You just take out 3 of the screws from each fan to keep the fan in place and you secure them and then replace the fan screws with the screws for the H100 system. It's all rather pedestrian when you understand what you're up against really. The only thing you must figure out is if you want the fans set up to Intake or Exhaust and try to get the tubes for the Rad set to the bottom to trap any air in the system in the top of the Rad where it won't cycle back into the system since air rises in liquid. Being a sealed system it's a tad bit different than if you were to build your own loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no worries Mate questions are why we all do what we do in some capacity or other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opened a thread with questions about the watercooling and i got recommendations for the rasa rx kit.... might get that
> btw whats the difference between the rx240 and the rs360?
Click to expand...

The rad


----------



## Venow

I want to put my pic of my rig here but don't know how to do it on my phone lol


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> I opened a thread with questions about the watercooling and i got recommendations for the rasa rx kit.... might get that
> btw whats the difference between the rx240 and the rs360?


Well, one is a 240 rad and one is a 360 rad, lol. The difference is the thickness and in turn the cooling ability. A RX240 is probably 50-75W less of dissipation compared to an RS360.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Venow*
> 
> I want to put my pic of my rig here but don't know how to do it on my phone lol


Upload to photobucket with their app, copy IMG links here


----------



## nabarun

Swiftech MCR320 - 360
Masterkleer Tube 3/8 ID
Swiftech Apogee XT Ultra 775/1156/1366
12V Laing D5 Vario (Swiftech MCP655 /Alphacool VPP655) Pomp
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 - POM BP-WTZM150P-BK
EK-Ekoolant UV Blood RED premix 1000mL10MM (3/8) High Flow Fitting G1/4 - DTEK
Bitspower D5/MCP655 Top - Acetal














































I wanne watercool my gpu too, would my rad be sufficient enough?

I orderd this

EK-VGA Supreme HF - Acetal
Swiftech MC14 RAM heatsinks

specs:

intel i5 2500K
asus p8z68-v pro/gen3
8 GB ram
gtx 560 ti
xigmatek elysium

Yes i know i need more fans for on my rad, they are on there way now.


----------



## TheJesus

A 360 could probably handle them both, but your temps might not be outstanding. Add another 120 if you have any concerns.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saancho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dude get a Full Coverage block(s) for that board and you can drop the four 120mm fans off the door and save your hearing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks ceadder, this is a work in progress. i currently have 11 of those fans in my case and i can barely hear it. so the fan noise isnt a problem to me, but yes eventually i will be adding some more water blocks. probably when i purchase twin 560ti's.
Click to expand...

At least you have completed connected yours. I don't even have mine halfway completed.









But I do have my FC block though.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> A 360 could probably handle them both, but your temps might not be outstanding. Add another 120 if you have any concerns.


Yeah I think only having one fan has something to do with the temps. Speed of the fan could also be part of the issue. If the Static Pressure isn't there it's not going to do much of anything for cooling. If this is one Push/Pull and 2 pulling fans it can also alter the dynamics of airflow negatively as Push offers better cooling than Pull.

I doubt the Radiator is the issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I think only having one fan has something to do with the temps. Speed of the fan could also be part of the issue. If the Static Pressure isn't there it's not going to do much of anything for cooling. If this is one Push/Pull and 2 pulling fans it can also alter the dynamics of airflow negatively as Push offers better cooling than Pull.
> I doubt the Radiator is the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was talking to the guy above my post, hah.


----------



## Eviang

Ok, to help accomplish this thread's goal, here's a list of my components and installation diagram so new water coolers (like me) can see how easy it is:


CPU Block: Koolance CPU-370 - for my Intel i7 920
Pump: Laing DDC-1RT/Plus with a WATERCOOL DDC-Case LT acrilic cover
Reservoir: PHOBYA Balancer 250mm (this is to high... try with a smaller one)
Radiator: COOLGATE Triple 120 mm (360)
Fans: Apollish Twister UCAP12-S - Silver (3 for the radiator and 1 more for the back of the case)
GPU Block: ATI 5870 XSPC Razor
Case: Corsair Obsidian 800D (the bigger the better for WC







)
Tubing: Tygon OD 16mm - ID 13mm - Transparent
Lots of 0°, 45° and 90° compression conectors 16mm/13mm
Koolance 5-way splitter
The setup is pretty basic: Reservoir --> Pump --> Radiator --> CPU --> GPU --> Splitter (drain port) --> Reservoir

There's also a fill port on top of the reservoir which made me do the only modification to the case (drill a 1" hole on top of it)







For the rest of components which are not really needed:


Heatmaster with 2 Aquacomputer temperature sensors and 1 Aquacomputer flowmeter: Optional to control the pump and fans RPMs and shut down the PC in case something fails
Cold Cathods: Just to light everything up
Spring coils (wraping some of the tubes): Just need them when the tube is too long and/or bends too much
Sleeves for cables: Not really needed. My cable management is WAY too far behind completion and way too messy thanks to my PSU not being modular and with cables too short
Cheers!


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently a 360 rad for a 1090t only is overkill... I love watercooling!


i dont get is, my 2600k gets up to 70C maximum on load, wiht a lover vcore.
and you 37C below my load temps.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> i dont get is, my 2600k gets up to 70C maximum on load, wiht a lover vcore.
> and you 37C below my load temps.


A. He has liquid cooling, lol.
B. Its an AMD processor so it caps at 65C instead of Intel's 98C.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I think only having one fan has something to do with the temps. Speed of the fan could also be part of the issue. If the Static Pressure isn't there it's not going to do much of anything for cooling. If this is one Push/Pull and 2 pulling fans it can also alter the dynamics of airflow negatively as Push offers better cooling than Pull.
> I doubt the Radiator is the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was talking to the guy above my post, hah.
Click to expand...

I know this. Why do you think I quoted your quote?









~Ceadder


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> A. He has liquid cooling, lol.
> B. Its an AMD processor so it caps at 65C instead of Intel's 98C.


A, I have liquid cooling, (RX360, 3ap-15's, + GTS240, 2ap-15's) (sig rig)
so its the intel architecture that makes the cpu run hotter ? (but safely hotter) ?


----------



## ramkatral

You're running a 2600k at almost 1.5v @ 5.0, with HT on

He's running a Thuban at 1.5v @ 4.2

He has a 360 rad devoted solely to his CPU, while you have GPUs in your loop... not to mention that hot azz 6990...

I don't see what's so confusing here...


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> You're running a 2600k at almost 1.5v @ 5.0, with HT on
> He's running a Thuban at 1.5v @ 4.2
> He has a 360 rad devoted solely to his CPU.
> I don't see what's so confusing here...


I'm running a 360 and a 240 solely for my cpu too, on a 600l \ hour pump.

im now just wondering why a 1.5v SB runs *37C hotter* then a 1.5v thuban


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I know this. Why do you think I quoted your quote?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I didn't even notice he only had one fan on the 360







That would certainly be the first thing to change.

I was referring to another 120MM Rad, not another 120MM Fan.


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> I'm running a 360 and a 240 solely for my cpu too, on a 600l \ hour pump.
> im now just wondering why a 1.5v SB runs *37C hotter* then a 1.5v thuban


Are you running a dual loop?

70C with that much rad support for only a 2600k and a decent pump... That's actually pretty dang hot, bro.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> I'm running a 360 and a 240 solely for my cpu too, on a 600l \ hour pump.
> im now just wondering why a 1.5v SB runs *37C hotter* then a 1.5v thuban


Maybe his SS was idle...

My 2500K @ 4.5 and 1.35V hits 60C full load.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think I can clear this up.

2600k @ 5.0 Ghz (running HT maybe?)

1050T @4.2

I would think the more processes running on the 2600k would make it run hotter than a CPU that runs maybe 2 cores at idle. But that's just me. I'm certainly no expert on Thubans or Sandy Bridge so feel free for the correction if I am wrong.









~Ceadder


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Maybe his SS was idle...
> My 2500K @ 4.5 and 1.35V hits 60C full load.


My 2500k at 4.4 and save voltage rarely goes over 53C under load... Jeez


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Are you running a dual loop?
> 70C with that much rad support for only a 2600k and a decent pump... That's actually pretty dang hot, bro.


Hm, its on 5Ghz with HT on, having volt spikes up to 1.51~
but yeah its quite warmm this is only during heavy prime load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Maybe his SS was idle...
> My 2500K @ 4.5 and 1.35V hits 60C full load.


I was also thinking of this, but that wouldnt make sense since his lowest temp was 19C, but i guess anything is possible.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> My 2500k at 4.4 and save voltage rarely goes over 53C under load... Jeez


Not bragging, just saying that there is less than 70C under load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> I was also thinking of this, but that wouldnt make sense since his lowest temp was 19C, but i guess anything is possible.


Hmm, perhaps he lives in the arctic?


----------



## ramkatral

Bragging? Mine runs quite a bit cooler under almost the same settings.

I'm pointing out that you're a good bit hotter... Trying to figure out why you guys are getting so hot.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Bragging? Mine runs quite a bit cooler under almost the same settings.
> I'm pointing out that you're a good bit hotter... Trying to figure out why you guys are getting so hot.


no idea mate, maybe its my room temp, i have no aircon and live up the highest floor in the house, i think its about 25C ambient here.
the lowest my temps on the cpu ever get are ~20C at startup when all the cold air from outside has gotten into my room.
so meh, no idea.

here's my setup btw (changed cases from an antec DF85 to a Caselabs M8) :


the case:


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Bragging? Mine runs quite a bit cooler under almost the same settings.
> I'm pointing out that you're a good bit hotter... Trying to figure out why you guys are getting so hot.


My ambient room temp is pretty high, almost 28C :| I also have a 5970 in my loop with near 300W of TDP.


----------



## ramkatral

It's gotta be your ambients. I have a 6970 putting in pretty much the same TDP. Hmmmm. I suppose the difference in the blocks would contribute.... Or rads... Dunno man. I don't guess it really matters.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> It's gotta be your ambients. I have a 6970 putting in pretty much the same TDP. Hmmmm. I suppose the difference in the blocks would contribute.... Or rads... Dunno man. I don't guess it really matters.


The temps don't bother me so its not an issue to me, hah.


----------



## KyadCK

Or, perhaps AMD just runs colder. Their thermal wall is much much lower despite shoving in more cores, move volts, and higher mhz (at stock speeds). But hey, I'm nuts, AMD always runs hotter right?

Anyway, based on the 19C low temps, I'm betting its at the very least a cold room. I would expect around low-mid 40s in a 'normal' (see: 24C / 75F) room temp.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> It's gotta be your ambients. I have a 6970 putting in pretty much the same TDP. Hmmmm. I suppose the difference in the blocks would contribute.... Or rads... Dunno man. I don't guess it really matters.


Hmm still dont see why my 2600k would run almost twice as hot as a 6core amd, for my cpu loop.
my graphics cards are on another loop, on the same sort of loop : RX360 and RS240, and the gpu's temps are (max): 46 - 52- 49.

which i feel is quite warm too. and my abient is ~25C.
am i doing something wrong, cause i see people posting their gpu's never leave the 30's on load


----------



## ramkatral

Sandy Bridge CPUs run cooler than AMD CPUs. That's not hypothesis. Circumstances can make it vary from the norm, but that's the standard.

My GPU hits upwards of 45-46C on load, so don't stress it. Think about how hot GPUs hit on air. Even 50s is low for full load.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> How do you like the R4s compared to Yates or GTs? I'm still on the hook for the GT group buy, but I'm weighing my options right now. I'm currently running Yates, but I want a little more push for the same noise level... YL 120SH turned down low on my fan controller.


They are louder since they spin faster. So far temps have been about the same as the yates but I do like that I can drop down their voltage lower than the Yates. Physically they look much better than the Yates but the led(s) aren't as bright as they Yates.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyadCK*
> 
> Or, perhaps AMD just runs colder. Their thermal wall is much much lower despite shoving in more cores, move volts, and higher mhz (at stock speeds). But hey, I'm nuts, AMD always runs hotter right?
> Anyway, based on the 19C low temps, I'm betting its at the very least a cold room. I would expect around low-mid 40s in a 'normal' (see: 24C / 75F) room temp.


Hehe im no intel fanboy nor an amd hater, i just go for the best thing i can afford on the moment, so i guess amd runs cooler then intel in this case.
but touching 70C on full load and not passing it on 5ghz with 1.5v, guess thats not that bad at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Sandy Bridge CPUs run cooler than AMD CPUs. That's not hypothesis. Circumstances can make it vary from the norm, but that's the standard.
> My GPU hits upwards of 45-46C on load, so don't stress it. Think about how hot GPUs hit on air. Even 50s is low for full load.


Ah, so i guess tose 30's cards are just having unbearable noise high rpm fans, or just icecold rooms.

this clears some stuff up. and i will just lay rest on the "warmer then amd" issue


----------



## ramkatral

A lot of times, when people are shooting for benchmarks and temperature measurements, they set their ambients unrealistically low. Not all, but some. I prefer to measure mine at the temperature that I keep my house at. A comfortable 69-72F, depending on my mood.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> A lot of times, when people are shooting for benchmarks and temperature measurements, they set their ambients unrealistically low. Not all, but some. I prefer to measure mine at the temperature that I keep my house at. A comfortable 69-72F, depending on my mood.


I do the same. I also prefer to measure mine at livable ambient temperature. I would lower the temperature but if I lower the temperature, the wife is complaining !!!


----------



## ramkatral

Lmao, same here. Her and the kids would kill me.


----------



## Eviang

I would LOVE to lower my room temp but, as mentiones before, my house cabling won't allow me to install a AC right now... maybe for next summer when I'll finally have everything redone. As for now, I can only take my CPU safely to 3.8GHz with room temps of 86F at night and 115F at daytime (yes... it's THAT warm).

I guess that in the winter, I will be able to get my CPU up to at least 4.4GHz with room temps of 60F - 70F... I'll have to wait and see.


----------



## ramkatral

Where the heck do you live?


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Not bragging, just saying that there is less than 70C under load.
> Hmm, perhaps he lives in the arctic?


No i dont live in the arctic, LOL. For some reason the thuban core temp sensors show a temp about 10°C lower then it actually is.
So the 17°C idle temp will actually be closer to 27°C.
And the 32°C load temp will be closer to 42°C
Also after several hours of running Prime95 my room actually gets a few degrees hotter and my load temp goes up to 35°C.

Max safe temp for a thuban cpu is 55°C when running 24/7, and absolute max is 62°C. So when you take the 10°C sensor difference into account that means that the max temp is 45°C.

But still, i think hitting 70°C with a 360 rad for you cpu alone is alot! I dont want to know what temps you would get with an ordinary Corsair H100.


----------



## Catscratch

Actually, You don't use offset on LOAD for Thubans, their sensors are calibrated to work accurate after 45c. So under 45c, you wanna believe your CPU socket temp. There were 2 emails from AMD, some folk here on OCN posted those emails, very old thou I can't find the one explaining the diode calibration. So if you ever see 55c on your cores with CoreTemp, those are correct. 55c is the accepted overclocking limit, because generally ppl get problems above that.


----------



## loki_reborn

Hey I have overkill cooling and my 2600k hits 70 as well. I think it is just a combination of high voltage and bad transfer through the IHS.

The temps go up and down like a light switch.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> Actually, You don't use offset on LOAD for Thubans, their sensors are calibrated to work accurate after 45c. So under 45c, you wanna believe your CPU socket temp. There were 2 emails from AMD, some folk here on OCN posted those emails, very old thou I can't find the one explaining the diode calibration. So if you ever see 55c on your cores with CoreTemp, those are correct. 55c is the accepted overclocking limit, because generally ppl get problems above that.


so 35°c core temp is not 45°C actually? Then my cooling is even more overkill then i thought... but i dont want to puch my vcore any higher so it doesnt really matter.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> No i dont live in the arctic, LOL. For some reason the thuban core temp sensors show a temp about 10°C lower then it actually is.
> So the 17°C idle temp will actually be closer to 27°C.
> And the 32°C load temp will be closer to 42°C
> Also after several hours of running Prime95 my room actually gets a few degrees hotter and my load temp goes up to 35°C.
> Max safe temp for a thuban cpu is 55°C when running 24/7, and absolute max is 62°C. So when you take the 10°C sensor difference into account that means that the max temp is 45°C.
> But still, i think hitting 70°C with a 360 rad for you cpu alone is alot! I dont want to know what temps you would get with an ordinary Corsair H100.


Hmm that explains alot actualy,
and you should take into consideration im running at 1.465volts (bios) with high llc, so it shoots up to 1.51v ~ max load.
wouldnt reccomend anyone with a H100 or anything less then good custom waterloop to run their 2600k's with HT enabled on these voltages.
intel also states that 1.52v is the max safe for this thing, so taken the max temperature of 98C 've read here, i've shaved off 30C of that temperature,
that is if you say 1.52v is max which (i guess) they found the 98C temperature with.

but if 70C on a 360 and a 240 running a *2600k 5Ghz with HT [email protected] 1.51v~ load* realy is that bad, tell me what im doing wrong.



Those are my CPU rads, and airflow is as followed :
front : intake
bottom : intake (trhough the 240 rad)
top exhaust (through the RX360)

water flow : res\pump -> RX360 -> GTS240 -> cpu -> res.

would i see a significant increase if i would make the bottom rads and fans as exhausts?
and also do this on my gpus loop and make the back fan an intake ?


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> so 35°c core temp is not 45°C actually? Then my cooling is even more overkill then i thought... but i dont want to puch my vcore any higher so it doesnt really matter.


Yeah that's a good OC, no need to push further.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn*
> 
> Hey I have overkill cooling and my 2600k hits 70 as well. I think it is just a combination of high voltage and bad transfer through the IHS.
> The temps go up and down like a light switch.


basicly you say, lap that 2600k ? (and possibly the EK-supreme HF too)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> Yeah that's a good OC, no need to push further.


i know, but my real question is (if you had read the rest), if that temperatures are bad for that oc on those radiators.


----------



## linuxfueled




----------



## Dwhite56

Can anyone suggest a full setup for my rig? I'v done ALOT of research but I just don't trust my knowledge over someone with years of experience and a rig that looks like some of these on here.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> But still, i think hitting 70°C with a 360 rad for you cpu alone is alot! I dont want to know what temps you would get with an ordinary Corsair H100.


Just wondering why you think that?

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/09/26/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-raystorm/6/

Average ~62 core temps running only at 1.392vcore. Yes the block is different to his but overall you're looking at few degree difference at most (as you can see in the comparison area) .. bump that up to 1.5v and of course the temps go up.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> but if 70C on a 360 and a 240 running a *2600k 5Ghz with HT [email protected] 1.51v~ load* realy is that bad, tell me what im doing wrong.


there is absolutely nothing wrong with those temps... you could probably add 10 more rads and the temps wouldnt change - the only thing is that it would take longer to reach that temp.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwhite56*
> 
> Can anyone suggest a full setup for my rig? I'v done ALOT of research but I just don't trust my knowledge over someone with years of experience and a rig that looks like some of these on here.


i dont have years of expierence, but i've watercooled a 600t with a 2600k and a 6970.
you can put a thin 240 radiator in the top of that case, with the fans underneath the click on grill,
and a phobya 200x200 radiator in front.
that would be decent enough to cool your system.
you must remove some parts of the case and have the harddrive cage on the ground in the middle.

as for a pump and a res, i think someone else will reccomend you a good pump, i just use 2 laing ddc1 rt pumps.

watercooling fans, the Scythe gt ap-15's seem to be very populair.

and for a reservoir, i htink a 5'25" bay res would be your best shot in a 600t.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> I'm running a 360 and a 240 solely for my cpu too, on a 600l \ hour pump.
> im now just wondering why a 1.5v SB runs *37C hotter* then a 1.5v thuban


Pretty sure the Intel chips do run hotter than AMD, but there's no business here comparing temps without knowing the ambients. I could be seeing temps in the 70's but if my ambient is 65 then the loop is actually doing a great job. Precision when posting these numbers is really important. /rant







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> no idea mate, maybe its my room temp, i have no aircon and live up the highest floor in the house, i think its about 25C ambient here.
> the lowest my temps on the cpu ever get are ~20C at startup when all the cold air from outside has gotten into my room.
> so meh, no idea.
> here's my setup btw (changed cases from an antec DF85 to a Caselabs M8) :


A delta over ambient of 45C sounds very high for a loop with an RX360 and 240...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn*
> 
> Hey I have overkill cooling and my 2600k hits 70 as well. I think it is just a combination of high voltage and bad transfer through the IHS.
> The temps go up and down like a light switch.


My temps fluctuate a lot too. I see loads in the low 50's with my 2600k folding @ 4.4 w/ HT on. Ambient is 65-68F. That's with my 570 and 8800GTS idling in the loop. 360 and 240 Swiftech rads + 360 AC Airplex AMS. All fans are on low so that the rig is near-silent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> Those are my CPU rads, and airflow is as followed :
> front : intake
> bottom : intake (trhough the 240 rad)
> top exhaust (through the RX360)
> water flow : res\pump -> RX360 -> GTS240 -> cpu -> res.
> would i see a significant increase if i would make the bottom rads and fans as exhausts?
> and also do this on my gpus loop and make the back fan an intake ?


Definitely don't recycle your hot air! Intake on the bottom rad is just feeding the top 360 with hot air which really doesn't help things. I can't be sure what you'd see as a benefit, but I'd be very confident that your temps would improve. Water flow and loop order is not going to change anything beyond 1-2C so I always advocate whatever gives you the shortest or most aesthetically pleasing loop depending on your preference. I would suggest both rads as intake which will result in the coolest air possible hitting them. Monitor your mobo temps to make sure you don't overheat the board-if the board is running hot the alternative is to make the rads both exhaust which will decrease case temps, but may slightly increase loop temps. In either case, the rads should all be the same (intake or exhaust) and the remaining case fans should be the opposite.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Pretty sure the Intel chips do run hotter than AMD, but there's no business here comparing temps without knowing the ambients. I could be seeing temps in the 70's but if my ambient is 65 then the loop is actually doing a great job. Precision when posting these numbers is really important. /rant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A delta over ambient of 45C sounds very high for a loop with an RX360 and 240...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps fluctuate a lot too. I see loads in the low 50's with my 2600k folding @ 4.4 w/ HT on. Ambient is 65-68F. That's with my 570 and 8800GTS idling in the loop. 360 and 240 Swiftech rads + 360 AC Airplex AMS. All fans are on low so that the rig is near-silent.
> Definitely don't recycle your hot air! Intake on the bottom rad is just feeding the top 360 with hot air which really doesn't help things. I can't be sure what you'd see as a benefit, but I'd be very confident that your temps would improve. Water flow and loop order is not going to change anything beyond 1-2C so I always advocate whatever gives you the shortest or most aesthetically pleasing loop depending on your preference. I would suggest both rads as intake which will result in the coolest air possible hitting them. Monitor your mobo temps to make sure you don't overheat the board-if the board is running hot the alternative is to make the rads both exhaust which will decrease case temps, but may slightly increase loop temps. In either case, the rads should all be the same (intake or exhaust) and the remaining case fans should be the opposite.


i guess i'll be changing the top fans to intakes and the case fans as exhuasts to test it out. the radiators on my motherboard side are form the gpu's so they wont heat up as much as the cpu radiators. so i'll keep an eye on that.
only problem is if i change the rads as intakes, and the case fans as exhausts, i have 12 (total) intakes, and just 3 exhausts.
now on the psu side this isnt a problem due to the large ventilation area's but on the motherboard side its all "closed" except for the mesh next to the pci-i/o part.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> i guess i'll be changing the top fans to intakes and the case fans as exhuasts to test it out. the radiators on my motherboard side are form the gpu's so they wont heat up as much as the cpu radiators. so i'll keep an eye on that.
> only problem is if i change the rads as intakes, and the case fans as exhausts, i have 12 (total) intakes, and just 3 exhausts.
> now on the psu side this isnt a problem due to the large ventilation area's but on the motherboard side its all "closed" except for the mesh next to the pci-i/o part.


I wouldn't worry too much- the case fans may want to be ramped up a little bit, but remember that a case fan has little air resistance (essentially none if you don't have a filter or anything) so it will exhaust air much more effectively than the intake fans will be able to push it though the rads. Not to mention that the excess air will naturally dissipate through openings around the doors and anywhere else that's not airtight.


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> I wouldn't worry too much- the case fans may want to be ramped up a little bit, but remember that a case fan has little air resistance (essentially none if you don't have a filter or anything) so it will exhaust air much more effectively than the intake fans will be able to push it though the rads. Not to mention that the excess air will naturally dissipate through openings around the doors and anywhere else that's not airtight.


Thanks mate








will definitly try this method next friday, when i have some free time to "play" with the case again








ill let you know. going to visit my bed now


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> Thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will definitly try this method next friday, when i have some free time to "play" with the case again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill let you know. going to visit my bed now


No problem, can't wait to see the results!


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jerm1970*
> 
> I feel ashamed given the beauty and ingenuity of most of these. Though I am not worthy, I'm going to post none the less.


I'm actually surprised no one commented on this. I really like the look of that, and I totally dig the bottle opener on the side painted to match.


----------



## Hogwasher

twist out


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

next new member gets #1100


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> next new member gets #1100


Trying to force me on buying my watercooling parts now, huh?


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> I'm actually surprised no one commented on this. I really like the look of that, and I totally dig the bottle opener on the side painted to match.


This does look nice...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> Trying to force me to buy my watercooling parts now, huh?


always


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> always


I think I'll go for the #1111 instead!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> I think I'll go for the #1111 instead!


you have a 2600k, 1155 would be suiting as well


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> you have a 2600k, 1155 would be suiting as well


True... Guess I have some spare time to find some good deals then!


----------



## Eviang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Where the heck do you live?


If you were talking to me, I live in the middle of Argentina. Climate has changed so drastically these past few years that every summer we get higher and higher temps. 10 summers ago, we didn't reach 40C ever. Now it's amazing we don't reach 50C (it feels like 50C tho). Also winter has changed... we rarely see snow anymore -.-


----------



## Philliesfan

Can I be 1100, It would be done if I didn't have to RMA the GPU


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philliesfan*
> 
> Can I be 1100, It would be done if I didn't have to RMA the GPU


sure









updated


----------



## manu97416

Will overclocking my CPU while it's water-cooled make my gpu hotter?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Will overclocking my CPU while it's water-cooled make my gpu hotter?


Are they in the same loop? If so, slightly. You might see about 5-10C higher temps depending on how high your OC is. The solution is to add another radiator (depending on what you have now).

If not, not really, it would just create more heat output from the rads.


----------



## manu97416

Thanks gonna get rasa rs360 kit for CPU cooling


----------



## Seanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Thanks gonna get rasa rs360 kit for CPU cooling


an rs360 is too much for a proc but not enough for a proc and a 590, if your gonna add on I'd suggest going with at least a 240 x 240 (360 for gpu would be preferred) and go something like res -> pump -> cpu ->240 -> gpu ->240 -> res. (you can switch the gpu/cpu if you want, but separate em so your not sending hot water to the next in line

If you can fit the RX series they are gonna be a lot better than the RS at any fan speed. Just googling It looks like the TDP of a dual GPU 590 is around 350 watts. You could probably pull off cooling this with an RS and some fast fans (well you'd have to go fast with an RS anyway, high fin count). Noise is gonna be another factor you'd have to deal with if you stick with the RS. not sure if that is a concern you have or not.

My RX360 runs 3 fans in pull config and about 450 watts of power to cool from the gpus, the fans run at 1100 RPM (Yate Loon M's) and it doesn't affect the proc which is next after the rad.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanage*
> 
> an rs360 is too much for a proc but not enough for a proc and a 590,.


NO such thing as too much, I think a 360 would be perfect for a CPU









and with push/pull fans a 360 would be fine for a CPU and a 590 if you don't go super crazy OCs but 590 isn't the crazy when it comes to OCs


----------



## Seanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> NO such thing as too much, I think a 360 would be perfect for a CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and with push/pull fans a 360 would be fine for a CPU and a 590 if you don't go super crazy OCs but 590 isn't the crazy when it comes to OCs


Your right, you can't.. especially on this forum. My mistake. The point I was trying to make though is that a 240 would suffice even with OC to voltage "ceiling" for CPU only. But I'd be cautious with thinking that a 360 rad would be able to handle both AND not want you to punch a wall with some crazy load and fast fans. If that is even a concern with you.

In the end, before buying, think long term. Are you gonna go full cpu/gpu (and whatever else) loop? if so why not plan for that, even if you go cpu only now you can purchase portions accordingly.


----------



## Dwhite56

What is the best radiator/fan combo that you know of?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwhite56*
> 
> What is the best radiator/fan combo that you know of?


Depends, are you wanting raw cooling, super quiet, best of both, best build quality, ect, ect, ect?


----------



## Seanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwhite56*
> 
> What is the best radiator/fan combo that you know of?


There are a lot of factors to consider. So its not a simple product x is the best. Are you wanting the best quiet rad? how big of a rad are you looking for? What kinda water restrictions are we talking about? What size fans does the rad support? How fast of fans are you wanting? I landed with the rasa RX series rads with yate loon mediums (1500 rpm max), but I was going for a quiet build. Skinnylabs has some good comparisons and charts for 360s and also some individual reviews of others.


----------



## Dwhite56

Goingfor a relatively quiet build, but NOT over performance, 120mm fans (will have either a 650D or 800D, so i have room for most anything) , 1/2 ID tubing, idk about the rest, thats why i'm asking


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwhite56*
> 
> Goingfor a relatively quiet build, but NOT over performance, 120mm fans (will have either a 650D or 800D, so i have room for most anything) , 1/2 ID tubing, idk about the rest, thats why i'm asking


Is it a CPU only loop, or are you adding GPU's?


----------



## Dwhite56

2 MSI twin frozr III 6950's , need a non-reference (universal) block


----------



## Seanage

Well you could go with something like my build. I have 2 universal blocks being that my vid cards are non-reference. I'd just check to make sure that even a universal block would work with your graphics cards. My build is mainly around a low restriction, low noise. I have tons of room to grow with this wc config, but I'll tell you I spent about 700 for what I have.


----------



## Dwhite56

Yeah, thats nearing the end of my budget, I may sell off the $800 guitar that i never use, amp, and gun, and just go crazy on a new build


----------



## Derek1387

Add me to the list










And now with a 7970, just waiting on my block-


----------



## HOTDOGS

Whats the word on fittings like these guys? Bundled and cheaper. By Fesser I think.

http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_112&products_id=1742


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Whats the word on fittings like these guys? Bundled and cheaper. By Fesser I think.
> http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_112&products_id=1742


Just plain ole compression fittings. Nothing special. Kind of like the older koolance compressions. They do the job, but they don't quite have the same finish as bitspower or the new koolance ones. Buddy bought some for a build over the summer trying to "cut corners" and never used them because he saw how much "better" the bitspower rotaries were and didn't mind sinking the cash into it. They're not bad by any means, just not "flashy". That being said, they did clamp down pretty darn hard. I'd say they're on par with alphacool fittings. Never the first choice, but they get the job done.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Whats the word on fittings like these guys? Bundled and cheaper. By Fesser I think.
> 
> http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_112&products_id=1742


Meh, they're about the same price per as my EK Black Nickel comps were. Don't forget shipping. They still look pretty nice though.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## HOTDOGS

Thanks guys. I'm in Canada and looking for some cheap but black or black chrome fittings. I really hate the idea of the Bitspower logo on everything, it looks tacky and they're expensive.


----------



## jackofhearts495

What fans should I use on an EX240 rad? Bonus points: keep them under $10 a pop. They'll be on a controller, so I'd prefer that they're not inherently silent.

Double bonus points: find a better 240 rad under $70.

I'm thinking about just plopping a few of XSPC's 1650RPM fans on it. I hear they're pretty good, plus they're only like $7 each.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Thanks guys. I'm in Canada and looking for some cheap but black or black chrome fittings. I really hate the idea of the Bitspower logo on everything, it looks tacky and they're expensive.


check out dazmode.com

edit* just read up - noticed you already had a link to it lol, i have EK black fittings and they look great, the EK logo is pretty hard to see.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> check out dazmode.com
> edit* just read up - noticed you already had a link to it lol, i have EK black fittings and they look great, the EK logo is pretty hard to see.


Yeah, I don't mind because it doesn't stand out. But nearly 10 bucks per fitting is pretty cray without shipping.


----------



## Seanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> What fans should I use on an EX240 rad? Bonus points: keep them under $10 a pop. They'll be on a controller, so I'd prefer that they're not inherently silent.
> Double bonus points: find a better 240 rad under $70.
> I'm thinking about just plopping a few of XSPC's 1650RPM fans on it. I hear they're pretty good, plus they're only like $7 each.


http://ftwpc.com/cooling/fans/yate-loon-d12sh-12-high-speed-fan-oem.html

not sure what fan speed you are looking for, I'm running with the yate loon mediums and they work great with my rx240 and rx360 rev 2


----------



## Defunctronin

Just an update. I bought a new side panel and some lovely black nickel EK compression fittings for my build, and they really cleaned up the look a lot.



Just waiting on my sleeve to get here from MDPC so that I can make look even better. I'm also considering buying a conversion kit for my MCP655 so that it will accept g1/4 fittings.


----------



## jaywar

In a push-pull config with an h100 and four Noctua NF-F12 PWM's would you have the fans pulling out or pushing in?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Well the fans/rad would be in the bottom of my case. They'd be blowing into the case in either a push- or pull- configuration. I'd probably go with push (fans on the bottom, rad on top, blowing air up into the case).

EDIT: Good find Seanage, I may very well go with those since they're so cheap. I'll probably even be able to do push/pull. I'd need a 4-pin Y-splitter though... what's the cheapest way to pull that off?


----------



## tippy25

In with an update to my sig rig.

Upgraded my video card (MSI 6950 2GB unlocked to 6970), added fan controller (Sunbeam Rheosmart 6), and threw in some UV lighting. See my work log for more glorious pictures.


----------



## Raging Bull

Heres my first WC build AKA Blood Dragon





6870 waterblocks from coolance


----------



## Bouf0010

so i got the new AP-15s installed!!

I played some bf3 earlier today with the gelid wing12PLs and my temps topped out at 51C on the GPUs (stock) and at 63C on the CPU (4.8Ghz)

Played again tonight with the AP-15s and my temps topped out at 43C on the GPUs (stock) and 52C on the CPU (4.8Ghz)

This is insane, i have no idea why i never got these fans sooner - or why i got the Gelids in the first place. Either way, im incredibly happy with the new results!

Thanks to everyone that suggested the AP-15s


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raging Bull*
> 
> Heres my first WC build AKA Blood Dragon
> 
> 
> 6870 waterblocks from coolance


Thats a pretty significant kink there, you should swap the outlet from the GPU to make it a straighter connection to the CPU.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> so i got the new AP-15s installed!!
> I played some bf3 earlier today with the gelid wing12PLs and my temps topped out at 51C on the GPUs (stock) and at 63C on the CPU (4.8Ghz)
> Played again tonight with the AP-15s and my temps topped out at 43C on the GPUs (stock) and 52C on the CPU (4.8Ghz)
> This is insane, i have no idea why i never got these fans sooner - or why i got the Gelids in the first place. Either way, im incredibly happy with the new results!
> Thanks to everyone that suggested the AP-15s


That looks really nice on top there









Love my AP-15s! Awesome fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> check out dazmode.com
> edit* just read up - noticed you already had a link to it lol, i have EK black fittings and they look great, the EK logo is pretty hard to see.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I don't mind because it doesn't stand out. But nearly 10 bucks per fitting is pretty cray without shipping.
Click to expand...

You can get them from PPCs' for about $6.50US which isn't that much more expensive than CAD. Shipping wasn't too bad from Florida to Washington either. I know PPCs' has taken a smacking but if you want nice looking Black fittings that's where I got mine from.









~Ceadder


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> NO such thing as too much, I think a 360 would be perfect for a CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and with push/pull fans a 360 would be fine for a CPU and a 590 if you don't go super crazy OCs but 590 isn't the crazy when it comes to OCs
> 
> 
> 
> Your right, you can't.. especially on this forum. My mistake. The point I was trying to make though is that a 240 would suffice even with OC to voltage "ceiling" for CPU only. But I'd be cautious with thinking that a 360 rad would be able to handle both AND not want you to punch a wall with some crazy load and fast fans. If that is even a concern with you.
> 
> In the end, before buying, think long term. Are you gonna go full cpu/gpu (and whatever else) loop? if so why not plan for that, even if you go cpu only now you can purchase portions accordingly.
Click to expand...

Guys I'm doing this only for CPU and I'm getting the rx 360
Btw isn't it res/pump - rad - CPU - res?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Guys I'm doing this only for CPU and I'm getting the rx 360
> Btw isn't it res/pump - rad - CPU - res?


You only need a 240 for a CPU, but that's up to you









I'd do res/pump - CPU - rad - res/pump. I've seen it done just about every different way and none seem to be particularly better than the others.


----------



## manu97416

I'm getting the 360 so that I can always upgrade and get a gpu waterblock
And maybe later on a different res( a nice dual bay helix res)
Lol then I'll get a new pump


----------



## sawjai526

add me to the list!

It is very messy atm, but it will be sleeving it soon


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

I might be scoring a nice deal on an RIVE and EK block to go with it soon. But I was wondering if I should bother with RAM blocks at all... Something tells me it will be quite cramped and messy with the mobo block, cpu block and gpu block thrown in the mix :/. What do you guys think?


----------



## Ceadderman

Do eet. Get the RAM blocks too. You'll never know unless you do ett.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> I might be scoring a nice deal on an RIVE and EK block to go with it soon. But I was wondering if I should bother with RAM blocks at all... Something tells me it will be quite cramped and messy with the mobo block, cpu block and gpu block thrown in the mix :/. What do you guys think?


They aren't needed, they are purely aesthetic.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Yeah I know. But I'm not sure if it would look good, that's the thing :s...


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Yeah I know. But I'm not sure if it would look good, that's the thing :s...


They do look good, I just wouldn't be able to justify their cost. Check out some build logs, lots of people have everything they could buy a cooler for cooled


----------



## Los Hog

For the money I got a full mobo cover that helped more than a ram block ever could and looks better


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> For the money I got a full mobo cover that helped more than a ram block ever could and looks better


He's already getting the mobo block too, lol.


----------



## Raging Bull

Yeah i did swap the connections out for a straight compression baarb but i noticed no difference in flow rate or temps so i put the koolance QDC back on the CPU case it makes draining my system allot easier.


----------



## HOTDOGS

So is the general rule of thumb 120 per block? For example if I was cooling my CPU and GPU with a 240 I would be fine? But since I'm getting a bigger case would a 360 be fine or should I get a 360 and 140? I plan on getting a 360 initially and adding the 140 on down the road maybe.


----------



## derickwm

More the better







But yes as a "general rule" 120 per block.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> So is the general rule of thumb 120 per block? For example if I was cooling my CPU and GPU with a 240 I would be fine? But since I'm getting a bigger case would a 360 be fine or should I get a 360 and 140? I plan on getting a 360 initially and adding the 140 on down the road maybe.


It really comes down to what each one is. Typically it's 120 per block plus an extra 120 on top of the total. That's just a general principle, not something to be followed religiously









Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> It really comes down to what each one is. Typically it's 120 per block plus an extra 120 on top of the total. That's just a general principle, not something to be followed religiously
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


I recommend 240 per block,depending on whats being cooled. 120 is a little stingy really and leaves no overhead.


----------



## Bouf0010

thats LOT of rad









i have an RX480 cooling my sig rig (cpu, ram, mobo, 2 gpus) and its doing a great job.

But then again, i have an RS360 sitting around incase it even becomes not enough lol


----------



## Onions

depends on what your cooling and how hard you push it.. i would say 120 per main block is lots, however the more hte better as stated i like to do 120 per block + a 120 on top... unless your either a really pushing your parts hard, or b want it to look bad ass lol i mean i got 3 quad rads for pretty much no reason


----------



## TwentyCent

Did you guys see this?



I'm quite excited about it, nice match with the Raystorm







. Lovin the look.

Knowing XSPC, it should not be too expensive either.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

As much as it pains my wallet to do, I'm going to have to switch to smaller fittings than than my current 1/2 3/4 compressions. Bigger tubing is nice, but some of the bends and turns is like trying to bend a huge burrito, just not happening. I've been thinking 7/16 5/8 for a while but I'm not 100% sure yet. I want something more flexible but not too thin looking... What do you guys think?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Did you guys see this?
> 
> I'm quite excited about it, nice match with the Raystorm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Lovin the look.
> Knowing XSPC, it should not be too expensive either.


Saw it. Looks really nice. Hopes it has the same performance as the Raystorm. It's a RAM cooler right?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Correct it is a RAM cooler.







from the design and layout I cant believe it will perform any differently, after all it is only cooling RAM and RAM is a joke to water cool, more of just a "cool" thing to do. the price and look is more important imo


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> Correct it is a RAM cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from the design and layout I cant believe it will perform any differently, after all it is only cooling RAM and RAM is a joke to water cool, more of just a "cool" thing to do. the price and look is more important imo


RAM really only needs passive cooling, maybe a fan if they get really hot. Sidepanel fans would be more than enough, and an advantage of that would be that it would cool the whole motherboard too


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> RAM really only needs passive cooling, maybe a fan if they get really hot. Sidepanel fans would be more than enough, and an advantage of that would be that it would cool the whole motherboard too


Not necessarily true. After adding my ram blocks it lowered the stable voltage of my OCs past 4.6ghz.


----------



## Tipless

i just redid some of my cooling components and added another mcp350 a dual pump top another 240mm rad and a fusion dual bay helix res: hmmm


ill post some more pics when it is cleaned up a bit as that was taken during leak testing


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> As much as it pains my wallet to do, I'm going to have to switch to smaller fittings than than my current 1/2 3/4 compressions. Bigger tubing is nice, but some of the bends and turns is like trying to bend a huge burrito, just not happening. I've been thinking 7/16 5/8 for a while but I'm not 100% sure yet. I want something more flexible but not too thin looking... What do you guys think?


I prefer 3/8 x 5/8. Still the same wall thickness as 1/2 x 3/4, but not as large and will make most bends without kinking.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> I prefer 3/8 x 5/8. Still the same wall thickness as 1/2 x 3/4, but not as large and will make most bends without kinking.


ive been contemplating switching from 1/2 to 3/8. Ive managed to get away with the 1/2 but i always feel limited when i redo my loop.

Have you used both angrybutcher?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> RAM really only needs passive cooling, maybe a fan if they get really hot. Sidepanel fans would be more than enough, and an advantage of that would be that it would cool the whole motherboard too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not necessarily true. After adding my ram blocks it lowered the stable voltage of my OCs past 4.6ghz.
Click to expand...

But how? My RAM, even when loaded, stays pretty much room temperature and feels cool to the touch.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> I prefer 3/8 x 5/8. Still the same wall thickness as 1/2 x 3/4, but not as large and will make most bends without kinking.


I'm looking for something like this, I can't tell exactly what size they are though.
Quote:


>


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> I'm looking for something like this, I can't tell exactly what size they are though.


[/quote]

That's either 1/2" or 5/8" OD. Likely 5/8". See mine below, also 5/8"


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> RAM really only needs passive cooling, maybe a fan if they get really hot. Sidepanel fans would be more than enough, and an advantage of that would be that it would cool the whole motherboard too


My ram actually does get pretty hot. I personally wouldn't bother watercooling it though.

I'm tempted by a 480 rad in the top of my case, and then doing away with my 360 and 240s. Pretty sure i can get by with just 1.


----------



## HOTDOGS

So since I plan on making a custom loop and want to cool my CPU and GPU with a total of a 360 rad and a 140 rad and just realized I wont have enough cash for a while, what should I do?Should I drop the 140 rad and GPU block or should I drop just the 140 rad? I could always add another rad on but I'm wondering what temps would be like on a 570 while everything else is being cooled and blocking/restricting the air flow.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> So since I plan on making a custom loop and want to cool my CPU and GPU with a total of a 360 rad and a 140 rad and just realized I wont have enough cash for a while, what should I do?Should I drop the 140 rad and GPU block or should I drop just the 140 rad? I could always add another rad on but I'm wondering what temps would be like on a 570 while everything else is being cooled and blocking/restricting the air flow.


Just go with the 360 and drop the 140 rad. A 360 should be good enough for 2 blocks


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> My ram actually does get pretty hot. I personally wouldn't bother watercooling it though.
> I'm tempted by a 480 rad in the top of my case, and then doing away with my 360 and 240s. Pretty sure i can get by with just 1.


oh for sure you'll be ok - check out my sig rig, its being cooled well by an RX480


----------



## Eviang

Guys, quick question here. I don't really like how the colors in my build look (tried to go with white without white tubing). How can I improve it without changing the fans?

I have white fans white cathods/LEDS and white sleeving. Should I go with white tubing? Or contrast the whiteness with some other color? Any pictures around?

Thanks a lot!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Do you have pictures of your rig posted for us to reference?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Do you have pictures of your rig posted for us to reference?


there is a list of all member's pics in the second post


----------



## Tipless

i think white tubing would look cool!


----------



## Eviang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> i think white tubing would look cool!


Thanks... I think it too but would kill to see some variants before I spend more money








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Do you have pictures of your rig posted for us to reference?


Yup... in my gallery but here they are:


----------



## TwentyCent

White tubing would definitely be nice imo. Oh and ditch the kink coils


----------



## derickwm

Koolance 7970 block will be here tomorrow







sooooooooooooo excited!


----------



## Eviang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> White tubing would definitely be nice imo. Oh and ditch the kink coils


Thanks! I'm almost sure I'll go white, unless someone shows me what would be better. I've used coils becouse of the 16/13 Tygon tubing... they bend way too much. I think I'll also change everything to 19/13 when I change the tubings to avoid that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> As much as it pains my wallet to do, I'm going to have to switch to smaller fittings than than my current 1/2 3/4 compressions. Bigger tubing is nice, but some of the bends and turns is like trying to bend a huge burrito, just not happening. I've been thinking 7/16 5/8 for a while but I'm not 100% sure yet. I want something more flexible but not too thin looking... What do you guys think?


What tubing did you have? PrimoChill is really good for these kinds of bends. Also 45 and 90 degree rotary fittings should give you the kind of flexibility to make those kinds of bends.





Save yourself some money and just add some angle fittings instead of going with new tubing AND fittings.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> Correct it is a RAM cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from the design and layout I cant believe it will perform any differently, after all it is only cooling RAM and RAM is a joke to water cool, more of just a "cool" thing to do. the price and look is more important imo
> 
> 
> 
> RAM really only needs passive cooling, maybe a fan if they get really hot. Sidepanel fans would be more than enough, and an advantage of that would be that it would cool the whole motherboard too
Click to expand...

RAM blocks are also good if you want a more fanless existence in your case. Where my system is concerned anyway. I'll be able to drop the extra fans even in the door.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> RAM really only needs passive cooling, maybe a fan if they get really hot. Sidepanel fans would be more than enough, and an advantage of that would be that it would cool the whole motherboard too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not necessarily true. After adding my ram blocks it lowered the stable voltage of my OCs past 4.6ghz.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Cooler sinks should allow for lower voltage and better stability.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> i think white tubing would look cool!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> White tubing would definitely be nice imo. Oh and ditch the kink coils


I love the white PrimoChill tubing with my Black Nickel EK fittings.


















Someday I'll get it all together.









~Ceadder


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eviang*
> 
> Thanks! I'm almost sure I'll go white, unless someone shows me what would be better. I've used coils becouse of the 16/13 Tygon tubing... they bend way too much. I think I'll also change everything to 19/13 when I change the tubings to avoid that.


White PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing (3/8 x 5/8) will look sweet especially with matte black compression fittings!


----------



## wermad

I love 3/8x1/2 for my small build. Its more flexible and the fittings are not huge to cause clearance issues. For some larger builds and (cases), I think 1/2x5/8 or 7/16x5/8 would be much more ideal for better aesthetics.

Ceadder, when are we gonna see some complete/finished/finito/assemblado rig?


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> White PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing (3/8 x 5/8) will look sweet especially with matte black compression fittings!


Yes, yes it does.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love 3/8x1/2 for my small build. Its more flexible and the fittings are not huge to cause clearance issues. For some larger builds and (cases), I think 1/2x5/8 or 7/16x5/8 would be much more ideal for better aesthetics.
> 
> Ceadder, when are we gonna see some complete/finished/finito/assemblado rig?


I have absolutely no idea. I keep changing my mind on Rads. And funds are super tight at the moment.









~Ceadder


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Gonna try and get Trips on this thread..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have absolutely no idea. I keep changing my mind on Rads. And funds are super tight at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You running your components on air?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You running your components on air?


i didnt think you were allowed to say that in this thread


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> What fans should I use on an EX240 rad? Bonus points: keep them under $10 a pop. They'll be on a controller, so I'd prefer that they're not inherently silent.
> Double bonus points: find a better 240 rad under $70.
> I'm thinking about just plopping a few of XSPC's 1650RPM fans on it. I hear they're pretty good, plus they're only like $7 each.


Not sure whether you meant EX or RX. RX240 is about the best you're going to get either side of $70, for under $70 I'd personally recommend a Swiftech MCR-220 QP, I've used mine over the years with great results. It's a great balance of price and performance. I'd recommend Yate Loon High Speed and turn them down with the fan controller. $5 per fan and you're all set. You can look at rads here, it's a pretty goos sampling and pricing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> As much as it pains my wallet to do, I'm going to have to switch to smaller fittings than than my current 1/2 3/4 compressions. Bigger tubing is nice, but some of the bends and turns is like trying to bend a huge burrito, just not happening. I've been thinking 7/16 5/8 for a while but I'm not 100% sure yet. I want something more flexible but not too thin looking... What do you guys think?


I really like my 7/16x5/8, it's big enough to get great flow and yet still pretty sleek looking. It's good good wall thickness for tight bends and I run it clampless over 1/2 barbs, which I think looks better than compressions, but that's personal opinion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Not necessarily true. After adding my ram blocks it lowered the stable voltage of my OCs past 4.6ghz.


You also go six-up which I think is another factor- in my situation where I only have 2 DIMMs, I think there's better airflow between the modules. I don't push the clocks or timings nearly enough to need the extra cooling, so I've never looked into it much. I think the only block I'd get would be a MIPS one, but that's based on looks and my personal distrust/dislike of EK now...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have absolutely no idea. I keep changing my mind on Rads. And funds are super tight at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You running your components on air?
Click to expand...









Sadly so. I probably should have stayed with the H50 until the final bit, but I wanted to push my chips into the pile.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Took about 4 hours to complete. Its a tight fit in that case running Tri SLI, Temps are Averaging around 25-30c idle to 60-70c max load prime 95.

Youtube Video of Setup http://youtu.be/PvV8NdpCPeA

*System*

I7 2600k OC 5ghz
16 gigs 1600 Patriot sector 7 ram
3 Gtx 580 3gb's (2 Zotac 1 EVGA)
Haf X case
Psyko Carbon True 5.1 surround headphones
Logitech g500 mouse
Saitek eclipse II Keyboard
3 23' Led monitors running nvidia surround

*Cooling*

Ek LTX cpu Block
FrozenQ Custom reservoir
Magicool 360 Rad
3 2000 rpm slim profile 120x12mm fans
1/2' Id 3/4' OD Primochill UV Acid green Flex tubing
Primochill ICE Blood red UV coolant
Red Anti Kink Coils
Koolance compression fittings
Koolance Drain valve
Phobia pump 800 LPH


----------



## wermad

^^^time to get that sandwich of 580s on water







. Nice color combo on the res btw


----------



## cyberbeat

^^ I'm with you on that! haha


----------



## loki_reborn

Well, I still need to tidy up some wiring here and there and get the back of that optical drive painted black but here is my rig up to date.














































Hope you guys like it as much as I do.


----------



## derickwm

^Nice rig. Now sleeve dem cables


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn*
> 
> Well, I still need to tidy up some wiring here and there and get the back of that optical drive painted black but here is my rig up to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you guys like it as much as I do.


i like the pedestal mod you did there


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn*
> 
> Well, I still need to tidy up some wiring here and there and get the back of that optical drive painted black but here is my rig up to date.
> *snip*
> Hope you guys like it as much as I do.


yeah im loving that pedestal







do you have a build log for it? Id like to see how much work is involved, im contemplating doing something like that now - im sick of having the huge 800D on my desk, takes up soo much space.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## agentsmith5150

can i get in on this too =)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentsmith5150*
> 
> can i get in on this too =)


updated, just for you


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn*
> 
> Well, I still need to tidy up some wiring here and there and get the back of that optical drive painted black but here is my rig up to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you guys like it as much as I do.


By the way, if you have all the top fans as exhausts I would highly suggest changing the rear-fan to an intake rather than an exhaust.
It will be good for motherboard temps as well as it greatly improving airflow.

The 800D/700D has too many exhausts, not enough intakes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn*
> 
> Well, I still need to tidy up some wiring here and there and get the back of that optical drive painted black but here is my rig up to date.
> 
> Hope you guys like it as much as I do.


That's a bit of a bend. You might want to consider terminating the tube at the grommet on the false floor and using fittings and angled fittings to redirect it. I've done this with the bottom rads I placed in my old 800D build.


----------



## agentsmith5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated, just for you


haha thanks!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## [ISM]-BlueDragon

Sorry double post


----------



## [ISM]-BlueDragon

Well just setup my new RASA kit earlier today... her are some before and after temps... will update with pics soon





Not real pretty...

120 rad, D-Tek Fusion V-1 CPU Block, Mircro-res, MCP655 Pump(1200 LPH)
(Load)-4.6Ghz 1.336v
(Idle)-1.6Ghz 1.01v

Prime95 Small FFT
3 Hours
Same test/time for both sets.

Ambient Temp - 21*C
Idle - 27*24*29*28*
100% Load - 69*73*77*72*
0 Error 0 Warnings

Gaming
FEAR2
52*53*58*52*
MW2
51*53*57*51*





Looks better. Yes it looks like I have a lot of extra tubing. That is so I can just pull the res/pump out a little bit to fill it.

With Rasa 750 RX360

Ambient Temp - 21*C
Idle - 24*22*27*26
100% Load - 54*59*63*59*

Gaming
FEAR2
47*49*52*47*
MW2
46*47*50*44*

Differences
Idle = -3*-2*-2*-2*
100% Load = -15*-14*-14*-13*


----------



## derickwm

You went from a custom loop to a kit?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You went from a custom loop to a kit?


Have you looked at his previous setup?? It's much cleaner like this, and he has more radiator surface!


----------



## loki_reborn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> yeah im loving that pedestal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you have a build log for it? Id like to see how much work is involved, im contemplating doing something like that now - im sick of having the huge 800D on my desk, takes up soo much space.


Sorry dude, I did not take any pictures of the process. But it is just 18mm thick MDF panels screwed together. Then I used a jigsaw to cut out the front and back holes to fit the two 480 rads. I also cut out a hole in the rear as an exhaust port that I covered with a 120mm rad grill. Then everything was covered in adhesive spray and I stapled acoustic carpet onto each panel. Same stuff used on car subwoofers. Bought it off ebay for about a fiver.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> i like the pedestal mod you did there


Cheers dude. Only about 150 pounds cheaper than the mountain mods pedestal.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> By the way, if you have all the top fans as exhausts I would highly suggest changing the rear-fan to an intake rather than an exhaust.
> It will be good for motherboard temps as well as it greatly improving airflow.
> The 800D/700D has too many exhausts, not enough intakes.


There is a 480 up there set to intake with 8 fans in push pull. Case is under high amounts of positive pressure as I have three big dogs and I try to keep as much dust and pet hair on the filters rather than in my case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's a bit of a bend. You might want to consider terminating the tube at the grommet on the false floor and using fittings and angled fittings to redirect it. I've done this with the bottom rads I placed in my old 800D build.


It is just an optical illusion from the photo angle wermad. It is a lovely curve in reality. But I do intend to dremel out some more grommet holes passing straight through the bulkhead on the next big tear down. Should hide a fair bit more of the tubing.

Cheers for all the feedback guys.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It is just an optical illusion from the photo angle wermad. It is a lovely curve in reality. But I do intend to dremel out some more grommet holes passing straight through the bulkhead on the next big tear down. Should hide a fair bit more of the tubing.
> Cheers for all the feedback guys.


Don't really mean to dremel or drill a new hole(s) but to use the existing holes with grommets and use fittings or bulkhead fittings to plumb the loop. But, if all is well then there's no need. Interesting combo of colors and I love your gpu(s) plumbing








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You went from a custom loop to a kit?


Technically, the Rasa kits are pieced custom water setups. Its like the Swiftech kits and the EK kits. All the components you can buy separately. So, they're basically bundled custom loops. A kit to me are the closed loops since those were not really intended to be customizable without voiding your warranty


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> You also go six-up which I think is another factor- in my situation where I only have 2 DIMMs, I think there's better airflow between the modules. I don't push the clocks or timings nearly enough to need the extra cooling, so I've never looked into it much. I think the only block I'd get would be a MIPS one, but that's based on looks and my personal distrust/dislike of EK now...


somewhat agreed. I do like my mips ramcooler better than the ek ram dominators, but the mips doesn't match any current gen parts. So sad


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> pr0n


You and your collection of BP fittings









Oh and the block is not too bad either


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Bundy, any improvements to BP waterblocks? In terms of thermal performance. Last round up I read, it trailed the pack significantly and only scoring high marks for low restriction (the same could not be said about their thermal performance and price).


----------



## [ISM]-BlueDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You went from a custom loop to a kit?


Like some others said it is pretty much a custom loop just packaged together.... I am going to try and find a full coverage block for my GTX 460 and put that under water and maybe throw that 120 rad back into the mix later... anybody have any idea where I can find a full cover block for a reference GTX 460?


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> So what's that mod? Is that like for airflow on the bottom ? Is a rad there ?
> Looks nice !


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> So what's that mod? Is that like for airflow on the bottom ? Is a rad there ?
> Looks nice !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if the post came out weird I'm using my iPhone .....
Click to expand...


----------



## loki_reborn

It is a pedestal rad box. It has two Switech MCR420XP radiators in there.

So the system has 3x480mm radiators in total.


----------



## manu97416

What temps do u get?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> What temps do u get?


60

Kelvin...


----------



## loki_reborn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> What temps do u get?












This is with everything having been folding for an over an hour.

All voltages and temps can be seen.


----------



## Boyboyd

1.43v is way too high for 4.5GHz. Did you use the AI tuner?


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bundy, any improvements to BP waterblocks? In terms of thermal performance. Last round up I read, it trailed the pack significantly and only scoring high marks for low restriction (the same could not be said about their thermal performance and price).


Nope, they´re still not on the top of the charts, when it comes to the temps...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ISM]-BlueDragon*
> 
> Like some others said it is pretty much a custom loop just packaged together.... I am going to try and find a full coverage block for my GTX 460 and put that under water and maybe throw that 120 rad back into the mix later... anybody have any idea where I can find a full cover block for a reference GTX 460?


Check this out.

http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-vid-nx460-waterblock.html


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sawjai526*
> 
> add me to the list!
> It is very messy atm, but it will be sleeving it soon


I love that fc cover!!! Did you get it from sidewinder pc?


----------



## manu97416

so... im gonna get the RX360
So what color tubing do u guys suggest?

I was thinking of primo chill red or white...
And black compression fittings
Later on I might get a red helix dual bay res
What do u guys think?


----------



## Hogwasher

personally I like the white tubes


----------



## bomberjun

Me either! White tubes are SEXY.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> so... im gonna get the RX360
> So what color tubing do u guys suggest?
> I was thinking of primo chill red or white...
> And black compression fittings
> Later on I might get a red helix dual bay res
> What do u guys think?


Why not go clear tubing then use some quality dye. A good red dye looks a lot better than red tubing IMO.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Me either! White tubes are SEXY.


That looks very sharp.

Where are people getting those Rad standoffs at?









~Ceadder


----------



## bdpakaknox

I believe those are included in the RASA kits, not sure if they're available separately.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks very sharp.
> Where are people getting those Rad standoffs at?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


they would be easy to fab yourslef


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks very sharp.
> Where are people getting those Rad standoffs at?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


u can get them at frozen cpu this one is a easy disconect one for easy cable managment http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9095/ex-rad-159/Koolance_Radiator_Mounting_Bracket_w_Quick-Release_BKT-HX001P.html?tl=g30c95s162


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Why not go clear tubing then use some quality dye. A good red dye looks a lot better than red tubing IMO.


sounds good


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks very sharp.
> Where are people getting those Rad standoffs at?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> u can get them at frozen cpu this one is a easy disconect one for easy cable managment http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9095/ex-rad-159/Koolance_Radiator_Mounting_Bracket_w_Quick-Release_BKT-HX001P.html?tl=g30c95s162
Click to expand...

No no, I want those standoffs. But thank you anyway.









I know there are Phobya standoffs(a tad ugly) for pretty cheap, as well as the Koolance kit, but I'm wanting something a bit less obtrusive to the eye, which is why I'm looking at those. I guess I could make some myself, but stamped is much better for my OCD.









~Ceadder


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No no, I want those standoffs. But thank you anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there are Phobya standoffs(a tad ugly) for pretty cheap, as well as the Koolance kit, but I'm wanting something a bit less obtrusive to the eye, which is why I'm looking at those. I guess I could make some myself, but stamped is much better for my OCD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


These ? http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p12393_XSPC-Radiator-Mounting-bracket-kit--6-32-UNC-.html


----------



## wermad

@ Ceadder: You can make your own by taking a trip down to Homes. Or here a few more:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_986&products_id=32694

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_982&products_id=30527


----------



## TwentyCent

^^ I'm feelin those 2!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No no, I want those standoffs. But thank you anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there are Phobya standoffs(a tad ugly) for pretty cheap, as well as the Koolance kit, but I'm wanting something a bit less obtrusive to the eye, which is why I'm looking at those. I guess I could make some myself, but stamped is much better for my OCD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These ? http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p12393_XSPC-Radiator-Mounting-bracket-kit--6-32-UNC-.html
Click to expand...

Yeah something like those would work. Too bad AT has the blasted minimum purchase rule. Still they're cheaper than the Koolance Bracket.









@werm... those were the phobya standoffs I was referring to, that Koolance unit may work but are shiny. Round surfaces being difficult to paint an all, I'm not sure I'd want to take the chance on them. I was considering getting 3 sets of those to make mounting my Radiator up top smooth but I decided to go with 20mm Yates High Speeds to sandwich between the case and whatever Rad I finally decide to go with if I go internal.

Found out the other day that I won't be able to go 3/4 tubing out the block off plate without hardware. Damn you CoolerMaster!!!


















~Ceadder


----------



## siffonen

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Planning to add gtx 570`s into loop or perhaps a kepler


----------



## Ceadderman

These are really sharp looking.









~Ceadder


----------



## loki_reborn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> 1.43v is way too high for 4.5GHz. Did you use the AI tuner?


Nope, it is just right for what this particular CPU requires.

All settings changed manually vis BIOS.

Not all silicon is made equal, and this is a very leaky chip. Takes loads of vcore and dumps out loads of heat. I would love to get it on LN2.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are really sharp looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


are those platic/nylon?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> are those platic/nylon?


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?278573-Monsoon-Free-Center-Compression-Fittings


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope, I believe they be brass.











As you can see from the inner threads of this black fitting with the brass color peeking out.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

ah, I see, they are compression fittings. Very interesting design.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ah, I see, they are compression fittings. Very interesting design.


That's what I thought too. I like my EK fittings but I like the knurl-less design of these *monsoon* fittings. They are rather sharp looking.









~Ceadder


----------



## Saancho

those fittins look amazing...time to order some!


----------



## Ceadderman

Monsoon D5 Bay Res? 

Looks like Lamptron may not be the only company under attack. I don't know what to make of this but I looked up the brand in PPCs' links and this Res Came up. But the pics are Danger Den D5 Bay Res. Now I really don't know what's goin on but this is the 2nd instance of what I think may be knock off. I could be wrong and hopefully I am, but this is not a coincidence to be taken lightly.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

primochill has a similar res/pump system. I wanted to pick that up but I just couldn't justify the extra cost over the xspc d5 res.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> primochill has a similar res/pump system. I wanted to pick that up but I just could justify the extra cost over the xspc d5 res.


I get how manufacturers rebrand stuff, but PPCs' actually has this listed under the Monsoon brand showing DD Images. That's what I'm having a problem with. You know I generally don't have a problem with PPCs', but this close to the Lamptron issues going on has me wondering what in sam hell is goin on. I'm not going to overreact, but I think everyone should at least be on their guard. At least those fittings are brand specific. So it could be a rebranding of sorts. I don't know so I thought it worth mentioning.









~Ceadder


----------



## nickbaldwin86

"Danger Den's" "Monsoon" res are china made... unlike all other Danger Den products... there is a story behind the story. Monsoon is just another brand name from the looks of it and Danger Den had some kick in the res dev or such.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&manufacturers_id=266&zenid=8d81d52a34fcca7ed2c216e46efde011


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> "Danger Den's" "Monsoon" res are china made... unlike all other Danger Den products... there is a story behind the story. Monsoon is just another brand name from the looks of it and Danger Den had some kick in the res dev or such.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&manufacturers_id=266&zenid=8d81d52a34fcca7ed2c216e46efde011


I'm assuming, that by "kick" you mean "input"? That would make sense. Still it is a bit troubling to see DD on anything that is "Monsoon" related. I apologize, I'm a bit OCD. So it's gonna take some reassurance and cleaning up of those pages to sooth my concerns. You're probably right tho.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Frozencpu has it listed as "Danger Den/Monsoon".

Edit: Technofront has a couple of nice looking bay reservoirs but they aren't pump integrated ones:
single loop -


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14361/ex-res-327/Tecnofront_Challenge_X1_Dual_Bay_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_-_Black_Delrin_-_Single_Loop.html?tl=g30c97s168#blank

Dual loop -



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14362/ex-res-328/Tecnofront_Challenge_X2_Dual_Bay_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_-_Black_Delrin_-_Dual_Loop.html?tl=g30c97s168#blank


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Me either! White tubes are SEXY.


Why such small diameter tubing?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Why such small diameter tubing?


The tight bend between his CPU and RAM blocks probably had something to do with it.


----------



## Systemlord

I will not support these Chinese products that have very similar names to brand specific products, support your US brand products! It's the only way to ensure that these companies like Danger Den don't get knocked off the market by these similar Chinese products, you wouldn't want all of our quality vendors to disappear...?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Why such small diameter tubing?


Nothing wrong w/ 3/8" tubing.


----------



## sawjai526

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I love that fc cover!!! Did you get it from sidewinder pc?


got it from fellow member on this forum, sidewinder is not selling any ek products at the moment. the backplate can be bought at www.ekwaterblocks.com


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nothing wrong w/ 3/8" tubing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I will not support these Chinese products that have very similar names to brand specific products, support your US brand products! It's the only way to ensure that these companies like Danger Den don't get knocked off the market by these similar Chinese products, you wouldn't want all of our quality vendors to disappear...?


The problem with your stance is that many of these "US brands" are comprised of rebranded Chinese product. It's a bit like watching US television and finding out that they're showing a UK version of it across the pond and they both have the same air life. i.e. The Office, The Unit etc.

I will support US manufacturers whenever and wherever possible, yet when they send their manufacturing teams abroad there really is no way to be sure anymore. But that's what happens when people have the belief that the Rich need to be overtaxed. They're gonna take their manufacturing teams overseas where people are just happy to have a job. So much for making the rich take on more than their fair share of the tax burden.

I am glad to find out that in this instance my concerns are unfounded though. At least until I learn otherwise.









Oh and on the DD front, I wouldn't crow about their quality too loudly. Their fittings are mostly of the aluminum variety. It costs me more but, I stick with Brass.









~Ceadder


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Monsoon D5 Bay Res?
> Looks like Lamptron may not be the only company under attack. I don't know what to make of this but I looked up the brand in PPCs' links and this Res Came up. But the pics are Danger Den D5 Bay Res. Now I really don't know what's goin on but this is the 2nd instance of what I think may be knock off. I could be wrong and hopefully I am, but this is not a coincidence to be taken lightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The Danger Den Monsoon model of reservoir has been around for quite a while which is much different than those Monsoon fittings which is that company name. Here is a link to a review Skinnee did last year on that reservoir: Skinneelabs DD Monsoon

All we have here is a company named Monsoon and a different companies product with a "Monsoon" model name.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Monsoon D5 Bay Res?
> Looks like Lamptron may not be the only company under attack. I don't know what to make of this but I looked up the brand in PPCs' links and this Res Came up. But the pics are Danger Den D5 Bay Res. Now I really don't know what's goin on but this is the 2nd instance of what I think may be knock off. I could be wrong and hopefully I am, but this is not a coincidence to be taken lightly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Danger Den Monsoon model of reservoir has been around for quite a while which is much different than those Monsoon fittings which is that company name. Here is a link to a review Skinnee did last year on that reservoir: Skinneelabs DD Monsoon
> 
> All we have here is a company named Monsoon and a different companies product with a "Monsoon" model name.
Click to expand...

None of which should have shown up when looking up company links in PPCs'. Not saying that it's impossible for that to happen, just saying when I look up product by company that it should only be the product of the company I choose from the manufacturer list on the left side of the page.









Haha I deedn't notice the DD to the far left of the title. Oops.









Still when they contact me about this( I contacted them about the Monsoon issue) I'll have to explain their site directed that product to my specific manufacturer search.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

I'm confused. Are we crabbing about the Monsoon fittings being a ripoff of the DD Monsoon bay res?? How is that infringement of any sort?

If it were a Monsoon reservoir, with an oval "viewport" pitted against the DD Monsoon reservoir....with an oval "viewport" I would understand, but fittings?


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope, I believe they be brass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see from the inner threads of this black fitting with the brass color peeking out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Those are freakin awesome! I still love my black nickel EK compressions, but I'd totally buy those.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> None of which should have shown up when looking up company links in PPCs'. Not saying that it's impossible for that to happen, just saying when I look up product by company that it should only be the product of the company I choose from the manufacturer list on the left side of the page.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha I deedn't notice the DD to the far left of the title. Oops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still when they contact me about this( I contacted them about the Monsoon issue) I'll have to explain their site directed that product to my specific manufacturer search.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Search... engine... filter... design... fail


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The problem with your stance is that many of these "US brands" are comprised of rebranded Chinese product. It's a bit like watching US television and finding out that they're showing a UK version of it across the pond and they both have the same air life. i.e. The Office, The Unit etc.
> I will support US manufacturers whenever and wherever possible, yet when they send their manufacturing teams abroad there really is no way to be sure anymore. But that's what happens when people have the belief that the Rich need to be overtaxed. They're gonna take their manufacturing teams overseas where people are just happy to have a job. So much for making the rich take on more than their fair share of the tax burden.
> I am glad to find out that in this instance my concerns are unfounded though. At least until I learn otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and on the DD front, I wouldn't crow about their quality too loudly. Their fittings are mostly of the aluminum variety. It costs me more but, I stick with Brass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I know a lot of parts from US branded PC performance shops (Danger Den//Koolance ~ Korea etc..) get most of their parts from China, I would rather buy a brand name part versus a China knock off, if FrozenCPU wants to sell knock offs that's fine but I will not even consider buying them. I guess what I'm saying is support the name brands products versus the knock offs.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> I'm confused. Are we crabbing about the Monsoon fittings being a ripoff of the DD Monsoon bay res?? How is that infringement of any sort?
> If it were a Monsoon reservoir, with an oval "viewport" pitted against the DD Monsoon reservoir....with an oval "viewport" I would understand, but fittings?


The problem is their prostituting the established names like Monsoon, they need to come up with their own names that identify them as their own product. I can see the ignorant buying a Monsoon product thinking it has something to do with Danger Den, then finding out later after receiving it that its not.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Even if DangerDen trademarked or copyrighted Monsoon, the infringement only applies to like products. A fitting and a reservoir are completely different items, I don't see where any ignorance would show up. Maybe I'm the ignorant one for not seeing it.

That would be like buying a Motorola Razer cell phone, thinking it's affiliated with a Razer Naga mouse.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## DarkHollow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sawjai526*
> 
> add me to the list!
> 
> It is very messy atm, but it will be sleeving it soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [...]


WOW.








EK should make backplates in that copper looking shade, (yes yes i know lighting etc w/e made the black look that awesome coppery color) I would buy one for sure









Anyone agree?


----------



## Bouf0010

yeah actually copper backplates would be pretty sweet - definitely need gloves to install those though.


----------



## sawjai526

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> WOW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK should make backplates in that copper looking shade, (yes yes i know lighting etc w/e made the black look that awesome coppery color) I would buy one for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone agree?


heh, unfortunately its a nickel plate. makes a shiny mirror though. yes i agree the copper looking backplate does look sweet,







handled with gloves


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> yeah actually copper backplates would be pretty sweet - definitely need gloves to install those though.


Ugh, fingerprints! Trying to ruin all my PC stuff; Side panel fingerprints, fingerprints in your heatshrink when you're sleeving, fingerprint smudges on backplates and reservoirs! IT MADDENS ME!


----------



## Jam0r

Newbie here, need a new camera and tubing isn't exactly the neatest but that can be worked on later on.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Someone is buying my rig soon. Which means I can finally get into my first colour themed/first watercooled build!


----------



## Seanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Someone is buying my rig soon. Which means I can finally get into my first colour themed/first watercooled build!


Congrats! Man I'd love to sell my rig just so I can do it all over again. Money is tight these days with the wife working part time. But I guess thats a good thing. Give me some time to wait till the new Nvidia tech.


----------



## TwentyCent

Nice Jam0r!

How do you like that pump? How is the noise level? That's the EK 4.0 right? (or similar...)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## bundymania

Brandnew NZXT Switch 810 Case arrived yesterday


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jam0r*
> 
> Newbie here, need a new camera and tubing isn't exactly the neatest but that can be worked on later on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Nice Jam0r!
> How do you like that pump? How is the noise level? That's the EK 4.0 right? (or similar...)


EK H3O - Supreme HF 360 Kit. What's that coolant?


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> EK H3O - Supreme HF 360 Kit. What's that coolant?


Got Milk!


----------



## sectionsone

This is my first watercooling RIG


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Got Milk!


hahaha

does anyone know why i have cheese curds in my radiator??


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## WroLeader

Y'all can't beat my cooling system!



...the fan is broken, the CPU is usually at 70-80C, sometimes even reaching up to 90 >.>

This somehow works.


----------



## carrotman

Well, ice IS frozen water... congrats on the watercooled laptop, I guess...


----------



## JerseyDubbin

Love the ice setup...you should get a cooling pad and put it underneath the laptop and just switch it out when it gets warm


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WroLeader*
> 
> Y'all can't beat my cooling system!
> 
> 
> 
> ...the fan is broken, the CPU is usually at 70-80C, sometimes even reaching up to 90 >.>
> 
> This somehow works.


Screw Dry Ice, you use Wet Ice, like a boss


----------



## boostinsteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The problem with your stance is that many of these "US brands" are comprised of rebranded Chinese product. It's a bit like watching US television and finding out that they're showing a UK version of it across the pond and they both have the same air life. i.e. The Office, The Unit etc.
> I will support US manufacturers whenever and wherever possible, yet when they send their manufacturing teams abroad there really is no way to be sure anymore. But that's what happens when people have the belief that the Rich need to be overtaxed. They're gonna take their manufacturing teams overseas where people are just happy to have a job. So much for making the rich take on more than their fair share of the tax burden.
> I am glad to find out that in this instance my concerns are unfounded though. At least until I learn otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and on the DD front, I wouldn't crow about their quality too loudly. Their fittings are mostly of the aluminum variety. It costs me more but, I stick with Brass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I definately agree, and this is one problem with the economic decline in the US. I try to support us companies as much as possible, but it is a bummer when you turn it over to see a QC sticker that also has chinese on it.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WroLeader*
> 
> Y'all can't beat my cooling system!
> 
> ...the fan is broken, the CPU is usually at 70-80C, sometimes even reaching up to 90 >.>
> This somehow works.


This is boss. I'm doing this when I get a laptop.


----------



## losttsol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WroLeader*
> 
> Y'all can't beat my cooling system!
> 
> ...the fan is broken, the CPU is usually at 70-80C, sometimes even reaching up to 90 >.>
> This somehow works.
> 
> 
> 
> This is boss. I'm doing this when I get a laptop.
Click to expand...

I didn't even know Packard Bell still made computers. Now that I looked them up, I see that they are owned by Acer these days. Last time I saw a Packard Bell, it had a Pentium III in it.


----------



## Jam0r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> EK H3O - Supreme HF 360 Kit. What's that coolant?


Built the kit myself as I wanted black compression fittings but yes it's essentially the same ha. Was going to try the XTX radiator but with the way things are now, there's no way it would of fitted.

Mayhems Pastel - Ice White








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Nice Jam0r!
> How do you like that pump? How is the noise level? That's the EK 4.0 right? (or similar...)


Yeah it seems pretty good and is fairly quiet but it vibrates a bit at the moment, want to try and pad it more to reduce the vibrations through the case


----------



## discipline

Just finished my christmas loop not too long ago. Case is plenty big enough for a 360 but man they made it too complicated to relocate the unnecessarily large control panel.


----------



## Foolsmasher

My sig rig. Please excuse the PSU not being individually sleeved. I have neither the time nor patience!

Sorry for cell phone camera quality.


----------



## discipline

If I ever upgrade again I'm moving to a TJ07. Such flawlessness


----------



## 161029

So many noiseblocker fans. That must have been expensive.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discipline*
> 
> Just finished my christmas loop not too long ago. Case is plenty big enough for a 360 but man they made it too complicated to relocate the unnecessarily large control panel.


Man that is really sharp. Just need a 120 or 140 to stick between the GPU and the CPU. I bet your temps would love you for it.









Would also clean up your loop a bit more in the process too.









~Ceadder


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *discipline*
> 
> Just finished my christmas loop not too long ago. Case is plenty big enough for a 360 but man they made it too complicated to relocate the unnecessarily large control panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man that is really sharp. Just need a 120 or 140 to stick between the GPU and the CPU. I bet your temps would love you for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would also clean up your loop a bit more in the process too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

+1 move that HDD into the 5.25" and put a 120 mm on the front


----------



## Ceadderman

I'd mount the Rad on the back actually, but that's just me.









HDD can move though if one had a mind to.









~Ceadder


----------



## Foolsmasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> So many noiseblocker fans. That must have been expensive.


They are perfect with that RX480, soooo quiet. Worth every penny!

My HDD is the loudest piece of kit I got in my rig.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discipline*
> 
> Just finished my christmas loop not too long ago. Case is plenty big enough for a 360 but man they made it too complicated to relocate the unnecessarily large control panel.


Wow i have never seen that case before, that is a really sexy looking case. May i ask what is the 2 usb cords going through your watercooling holes? Also why is your SSD backwards.


----------



## discipline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Man that is really sharp. Just need a 120 or 140 to stick between the GPU and the CPU. I bet your temps would love you for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would also clean up your loop a bit more in the process too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well the order is res>pump>GPU>360 rad>CPU>res. Also the reason I have excess tubing is to be able to move the res and pump out of the case to drain it! This dangerden dreamflex UV blue tubing is incredibly resistant to reverse bends so I had to coil it around to the pump. I do agree maybe a pump top and some more 90/45 fittings would help me clean it up a bit more.


----------



## wermad

Cheap mod!!! Spray paint the the odd with a little satin black. No more gray eyesore.

I love the loop Discipline, uber clean


----------



## discipline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Wow i have never seen that case before, that is a really sexy looking case. May i ask what is the 2 usb cords going through your watercooling holes? Also why is your SSD backwards.


Haha yea this case was designed early usb 3.0 so instead of putting a header they put 2 cords that route to the I/O on the mobo. My HDD is backwards because In Win wanted it that way! I kid you not they made the cage work that way if I put it in backwards so the cables are hidden it won't click into place. I don't mind it too much since you get to see the HDD power cable that I sleeved but yea one of the imperfections of the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cheap mod!!! Spray paint the the odd with a little satin black. No more gray eyesore.
> I love the loop Discipline, uber clean


Yea I actually might do that pretty soon I was planning to but it took me like a week and a half to finish this. I really wanted to get my main comp back up and running! My old laptop can only browse OCN so fast and no gaming was kinda getting old. . .


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> This is my first watercooling RIG


Apparently everyone missed this sexy looking rig, I love the fittings and the clean look!


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foolsmasher*
> 
> They are perfect with that RX480, soooo quiet. Worth every penny!
> My HDD is the loudest piece of kit I got in my rig.


Nice.


----------



## Phill.




----------



## Seventh Badger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phill.*


That's beautiful. I have a A05N in my closet that I want to do something similar with. Awesome.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discipline*
> 
> Just finished my christmas loop not too long ago. Case is plenty big enough for a 360 but man they made it too complicated to relocate the unnecessarily large control panel.


Very nice. I just finished my loop, but something i noticed on my Raystorm is that the LED wires are really really short. did you extend yours?
Also what tubing did you use? i got blue tubing but it looks very purple to me...
oh 1 more thing, where did you get the carbon fiber stuff that's on your PSU?


----------



## discipline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Very nice. I just finished my loop, but something i noticed on my Raystorm is that the LED wires are really really short. did you extend yours?
> Also what tubing did you use? i got blue tubing but it looks very purple to me...
> oh 1 more thing, where did you get the carbon fiber stuff that's on your PSU?


Nah I didn't I just routed them under the sabertooth "thermal shield" (lol). The tubing is the just released dangerden dreamflex UV blue:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13728/ex-tub-986/Danger_Den_DreamFlex_Value_Pack_-_Tubing_Clamps_Tube_Cutter_12ID_x_34OD_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c99s172.
It actually is a much lighter blue under UV but sadly I don't have a camera to really capture how it looks. I got the carbon fiber stuff from here http://www.mnpctech.com/CarbonFiber_Gunmetal_Titanium.html and later found out you can get it on ebay for cheaper.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Also what tubing did you use? i got blue tubing but it looks very purple to me...


Primochill? I just got my UV Blue to replace the green, and I agree, it looks purple rather than blue. If I hold it up to the light from my monitor, then it actually looks blue. Any ambient lighting (florescent or incandescent) and it looks purple. It looks nearly white under UV. Oh well, we'll see how it looks when I get it installed soon....maybe tonight if my GPU testing goes well.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Primochill? I just got my UV Blue to replace the green, and I agree, it looks purple rather than blue. If I hold it up to the light from my monitor, then it actually looks blue. Any ambient lighting (florescent or incandescent) and it looks purple. It looks nearly white under UV. Oh well, we'll see how it looks when I get it installed soon....maybe tonight if my GPU testing goes well.


Yup its this stuff. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292&products_id=24505 its nice and bendy though, no kinks.
Wow, i didnt even know it was UV lmao. Well.. then now i need a UV light.
And yea, i looked at it in the sunlight and it looked very blue, in my PC it looks purpleish.

edit: any suggestions on UV lighting? itd be cool to have the tubes light up.


----------



## Phill.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seventh Badger*
> 
> That's beautiful. I have a A05N in my closet that I want to do something similar with. Awesome.


Thanks mate!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> edit: any suggestions on UV lighting? itd be cool to have the tubes light up.


I'm using these. They're cheap, though they're kind of iffy on quality. Mine work fine, but others have reported they are very dim. Seems to be a crap-shoot at which you end up with.


----------



## discipline

I use http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2998/lit-46/Dual_12_Cold_Cathode_Kit_-_Ultra_Bright_UV.html?tl=g6c75s133#blank
They light up my tubes pretty good







edit: They came in that logisys packing so I think they are the same ones that angrybutcher linked

Heres some pics from my iphone camera:


----------



## iCrap

Thanks im going to go ahead and get that UV light then and il look for the carbon fiber stuff on ebay...

Oh also, you guys got any good reccomendations for rad fans (aside from GT's)? the fans i have now are absolute crap... and noisy. really noisy.


----------



## discipline

Some people will say the GELID wing 120s but the one I have on the back as intake is the noisiest part of my comp now. It's not overly noisy by any means but not as quiet as the 4 other GTs in my case.


----------



## wermad

Yates offer the best bang for your buck.


----------



## iCrap

Alright well say i do get GT's... which ones do you suggest?

And also @wermad... which yates?


----------



## mxthunder

an updated pic of my rig.

any tips on how i could clean up my tubing? right now I have it going pump > 360 top rad > cpu block > 120mm rad > gpu block > rezzie


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Alright well say i do get GT's... which ones do you suggest?
> And also @wermad... which yates?


AP-15s, they dropped my temps an average of 7C over the Gelid Wing 12PLs


----------



## iCrap

Alright well i guess im going to have to get some GTs..
where can i buy ap15s?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Alright well say i do get GT's... which ones do you suggest?
> And also @wermad... which yates?


There's the "non-actual" Low, Medium (I've used these extensively), and High Yate Loons. The mediums tend to be the one's a I see more since they offer great airflow and noise-level. The "authentic", "direct-from-Yate Loon", "original" ones cost a bit more but they apperantly have more robust guts and they tend to last longer. With the "non-original" Yates, you may get a bad one once an while, so I recommend to get an extra one or two. Jab-tech.com has one of the best prices around for the Medium "non-original" Yates ($3.60/ea 1-3 units, $3.35/ea 4-9 units, $3.10/ea 10+ units). They have the "direct-from-Yate Loon" for $5.99 each.

With a good fan controller, your can vary the noise by dropping the voltage on the fans when you need some quiet time. I cranked them up when gaming (usually using my headphones) or benchmarking.

I'm running CM R4 sickle mainly for the aesthetics and they were on special ($5.99/ea, @ amazon). They are super loud at 12v but I can drop them quite a bit to where they are whisper quiet.

Btw, make sure you pair your fans properly to your rad. Some rads do better with high speed fans (>1500 rpm) or low speed (<1500 rpm). I don't have any experience with GT, but I hear a lot of praise for them and they do very nicely with all types of rads. I have used Swiftech and XSPC rads and I never had any concerns with running med. Yates.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's the "non-actual" Low, Medium (I've used these extensively), and High Yate Loons. The mediums tend to be the one's a I see more since they offer great airflow and noise-level. The "authentic", "direct-from-Yate Loon", "original" ones cost a bit more but they apperantly have more robust guts and they tend to last longer. With the "non-original" Yates, you may get a bad one once an while, so I recommend to get an extra one or two. Jab-tech.com has one of the best prices around for the Medium "non-original" Yates ($3.60/ea 1-3 units, $3.35/ea 4-9 units, $3.10/ea 10+ units). They have the "direct-from-Yate Loon" for $5.99 each.
> With a good fan controller, your can vary the noise by dropping the voltage on the fans when you need some quiet time. I cranked them up when gaming (usually using my headphones) or benchmarking.
> I'm running CM R4 sickle mainly for the aesthetics and they were on special ($5.99/ea, @ amazon). They are super loud at 12v but I can drop them quite a bit to where they are whisper quiet.
> Btw, make sure you pair your fans properly to your rad. Some rads do better with high speed fans (>1500 rpm) or low speed (<1500 rpm). I don't have any experience with GT, but I hear a lot of praise for them and they do very nicely with all types of rads. I have used Swiftech and XSPC rads and I never had any concerns with running med. Yates.


Alright well i found the AP15 on jab-tech..
Looking at this page here for the Yates though, http://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-Fans-c-81-p-2.html

Whats the difference between all those? i would probably get the blue LED ones though, but which ones will be quiet while still cooling well? (ive got a sunbeam rheobeus controller so i can undervolt anyways) Should i go for the high speed and undervolt? http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SH-124B-UV-Blue-Frame-with-4-Blue-leds-High-Speed-pr-3824.html


----------



## jackofhearts495

If you're looking for the AP-15's... I'd recommend aquatuning.us. Fast, cheap shipping. Plus they have like 500 AP-15's in stock for less than $15 each.

There's a "fee" for processing orders under $70, though, so I'd buy your fans with other stuff.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Alright well i found the AP15 on jab-tech..
> Looking at this page here for the Yates though, http://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-Fans-c-81-p-2.html
> Whats the difference between all those? i would probably get the blue LED ones though, but which ones will be quiet while still cooling well? (ive got a sunbeam rheobeus controller so i can undervolt anyways) Should i go for the high speed and undervolt? http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SH-124B-UV-Blue-Frame-with-4-Blue-leds-High-Speed-pr-3824.html


If you want the led ones, ppcs.com has the red, blue, and green Yate loons with the clear housing. I don't like those uv blue housing ones. With ppcs.com, makes sure you deselect the option they automatically apply to the the price of the Yates. Its a cheap-arse-crappy sleeve and the cut off the molex connector. Deselect this option and it'll drop the price to $3.95 a pop.

Low speeds ones have a lower cfm and thus lower noise, the high speed ones are the higher air flow ones but they are louder. The mediums I think are they best compromise as they fall in between. The mediums are not that loud but that was hard for me to verfiy since I usually ran more than ten at a time in my previous builds where I had Yates.

If you are after the best, get the "direct-from-Yate Loon" ones. I know that Petras sells them too.

If you have the cash, get the GTs. If money is tight, can't go wrong with "direct" Yates or the medium Yates.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you want the led ones, ppcs.com has the red, blue, and green Yate loons with the clear housing. I don't like those uv blue housing ones. With ppcs.com, makes sure you deselect the option they automatically apply to the the price of the Yates. Its a cheap-arse-crappy sleeve and the cut off the molex connector. Deselect this option and it'll drop the price to $3.95 a pop.
> Low speeds ones have a lower cfm and thus lower noise, the high speed ones are the higher air flow ones but they are louder. The mediums I think are they best compromise as they fall in between. The mediums are not that loud but that was hard for me to verfiy since I usually ran more than ten at a time in my previous builds where I had Yates.
> If you are after the best, get the "direct-from-Yate Loon" ones. I know that Petras sells them too.
> If you have the cash, get the GTs. If money is tight, can't go wrong with "direct" Yates or the medium Yates.


With the GTs, its no LED, and $15 is honestly ridiculous for a fan.
But say, i get medium speed yates for my XSPC rad. How will they compare to GT 15s?


----------



## solsamurai

That $15 is worth it for the GT's.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

I run high-speed 'real' Yates turned down low in my fan controller- they're virtually silent. I also run 3 low speed (~1300rpm) GT's. I can't wait to get more GTs, the quality seems outstanding. Nothing wrong with Yates though, they've served well and quietly too. If I crank them up they can definitely push some serious air. For $5 you can't beat them, period. Even AP-15's are hard to compare in terms of price/performance.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> With the GTs, its no LED, and $15 is honestly ridiculous for a fan.
> But say, i get medium speed yates for my XSPC rad. How will they compare to GT 15s?


The RX and RS series do great with Yates. I heard the EX rads prefer faster fans (+1500), but I don't know if this is 100% true


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discipline*
> 
> Just finished my christmas loop not too long ago. Case is plenty big enough for a 360 but man they made it too complicated to relocate the unnecessarily large control panel.


you just made me want the dragon rider more than i already did.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phill.*


your image doesn't work anymore, so i can't add you to the list just yet.


----------



## Phill.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> your image doesn't work anymore, so i can't add you to the list just yet.


What do you mean?

I can see it and the one you quoted as well.

Here is a direct link anyway: http://i.imgur.com/RNv12.jpg


----------



## Liighthead

Mmm so very nice setups here







I should hopfully have a loop setup sometime..... Soon got to work out how to mount my rx360 >.<


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> I run high-speed 'real' Yates turned down low in my fan controller- they're virtually silent. I also run 3 low speed (~1300rpm) GT's. I can't wait to get more GTs, the quality seems outstanding. Nothing wrong with Yates though, they've served well and quietly too. If I crank them up they can definitely push some serious air. For $5 you can't beat them, period. Even AP-15's are hard to compare in terms of price/performance.


^this. I love my AP-15s. I have them all turned down to as low as possible and even with all 18 going my room is dead silent. Getting decent temps during folding still too


----------



## Pis

[/URL

Updated


----------



## Byakuya27




----------



## jackofhearts495

Sharp build!









What dye(s) are you using to get that nice red color?


----------



## WroLeader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *losttsol*
> 
> I didn't even know Packard Bell still made computers. Now that I looked them up, I see that they are owned by Acer these days. Last time I saw a Packard Bell, it had a Pentium III in it.


Haha, they do make computers, but they're mostly only available on South America and other places. (In fact, they don't offer support on the USA. The list of countries? Just visit http://www.packardbell.com - The countries there? That's what they support. Nothing more, nothing less.)

They're entry-level, though.

At least they're quite reliable.


----------



## Byakuya27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Sharp build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What dye(s) are you using to get that nice red color?


thank you

the liquid is the Thermochill EC6 red


----------



## AoHxBram

So i folloed some advice SaltWaterCooled gave me and changed my radiator fans to intakes.
i changed my front fans to exhausts on the psu side, and kept the motherboard side as intake.
all air is now being pushed out on the side or on the back of the case, and on (psu side) sucked out by fans.
my cpu temps have dropped a 2~5C depending on core and load, my GPU temps have dropped 8C on the hottest card so far.
i havent tested my gpu's intensively like hours of gaming, but it looks good so far.

i've also tried some cable management but im not as good as some people are on here, but im happy with the amount of cables i have and the amount of space.


this is how i mounted the vertex 3 if anyone wonders :

put 2 small screws in the back of it, and hang it off the side of the hard drive cage :


----------



## derickwm

Very sleek build Byakuya


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phill.*
> 
> What do you mean?
> I can see it and the one you quoted as well.
> Here is a direct link anyway: http://i.imgur.com/RNv12.jpg




shows the same thing when I click the link you posted too.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Phill's pictures are working for me.

[edit] Nevermind, was cached lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Yikes AoHxBram, don't look now but the cable monster is coming to get you.









~Ceadder


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yikes AoHxBram, don't look now but the cable monster is coming to get you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


haha, im hiding in my M8 already , i can fit in there easily cause it costed me an arm and a leg lol.


----------



## Foolsmasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yikes AoHxBram, don't look now but the cable monster is coming to get you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I love that Avatar man, that is awesome


----------



## HOTDOGS

Since I'm going for an all black/gray build and possibly silver compression fittings would you suggest I go for black or white tube?


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Since I'm going for an all black/gray build and possibly silver compression fittings would you suggest I go for black or white tube?


I love Primochill LRT. Bends easy, and no plasticiser.

EDIT: your avatar is crazy.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> I love Primochill LRT. Bends easy, and no plasticiser.
> EDIT: your avatar is crazy.


Thanks hahah. I won't be messing with UV reactive things. I have an idea involving nothing but simple white light.


----------



## iCrap

I like the primochill, it does bend really easily. Only problem is that my blue tube looks purple. And i didn't even know it was UV reactive until somebody pointed it out to me... lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foolsmasher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yikes AoHxBram, don't look now but the cable monster is coming to get you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love that Avatar man, that is awesome
Click to expand...

Are you meaning the smiley? Or my avatar?









Yeah I do like the Domotwak smiley too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I like the primochill, it does bend really easily. Only problem is that my blue tube looks purple. And i didn't even know it was UV reactive until somebody pointed it out to me... lol.


My friends getting ready to do a blue build, i'll have to tell him about that purpleness since hes planning on using primochill tube.
In another note, I'm very disappointed with how the UV red tubing looks in UV light, its orange as hell. That's why I switched back to red cathodes and leds, it looks pretty good that, as it's very red in normal light. I haven't found a single UV red product that looks "red" in uv light. I think the T-Virus res is the best uv red that I have seen, almost anything else is either orange or pink in uv light.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are you meaning the smiley? Or my avatar?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I do like the Domotwak smiley too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That domo smiley is freaking wonderful, lol. !I MUST HAVE!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> My friends getting ready to do a blue build, i'll have to tell him about that purpleness since hes planning on using primochill tube.
> In another note, I'm very disappointed with how the UV red tubing looks in UV light, its orange as hell. That's why I switched back to red cathodes and leds, it looks pretty good that, as it's very red in normal light. I haven't found a single UV red product that looks "red" in uv light. I think the T-Virus res is the best uv red that I have seen, almost anything else is either orange or pink in uv light.


I run Primo LRT Blue and it looks good to me under natural light, it matches the deep blue paint in my Shelby project really well. I don't use UV cathodes anymore but I have a 12" blue cathode that makes the tubing look really good. I actually sleeved the cathode with some loose-weave black sleeving to diffuse the light a bit since it was so overwhelmingly bright...


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> I run Primo LRT Blue and it looks good to me under natural light, it matches the deep blue paint in my Shelby project really well. I don't use UV cathodes anymore but I have a 12" blue cathode that makes the tubing look really good. I actually sleeved the cathode with some loose-weave black sleeving to diffuse the light a bit since it was so overwhelmingly bright...


My red tubing is the same way, it looks a lot better in the light of red leds and cathodes. Interesting idea to sleeve the cathodes, lol; gues you can sleeve just about anything. BTW, your Shelby build is epic.


----------



## iCrap

Any suggestions for a smaller UV light? i had seen some Logisys one being recommended but its 12" and.. my case being very small, there isn't enough space for it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Any suggestions for a smaller UV light? i had seen some Logisys one being recommended but its 12" and.. my case being very small, there isn't enough space for it.


What is the maximum length that will fit?









~Ceadder


----------



## moa.

New revision of my watercooling setup


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What is the maximum length that will fit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No more than 7" it looks like...

Also when i went to go check, i noticed none of my fans were spinning.. then i checked CPU temp.. 78c :O that's ridiculous. i have the fans running full speed right now and its slowly going back down... time for a new fan controller that dosent randomly quit on me. Is there any risk of like damaging my pump/tubes/rad with all that heat?


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> New revision of my watercooling setup


That's hot. Probably even better looking in person?


----------



## loki_reborn

Yeah I really like that pink setup.


----------



## kamikaze_

Cool stuff. Do like the UV glow.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What is the maximum length that will fit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No more than 7" it looks like...
> 
> Also when i went to go check, i noticed none of my fans were spinning.. then i checked CPU temp.. 78c :O that's ridiculous. i have the fans running full speed right now and its slowly going back down... time for a new fan controller that dosent randomly quit on me. Is there any risk of like damaging my pump/tubes/rad with all that heat?
Click to expand...

I don't think there is too much to worry about if you don't do it for prolonged periods of time. Rads are pretty forgiving considering the temp tolerances that they are rated for. I think the weakest point would be the pump but so long as there is liquid flowing through it I don't believe it would be too much of an issue either. Just not prolonged periods of time though. No need to push your luck I guess right?









If you don't have a lot of room in your case you might try a LED strand from NZXT. Lots of people like them, they're 2 cable width like a 2 wire fan cable and sleeved with black sleeving so the wires don't stick out like a sore thumb.


















~Ceadder


----------



## Phill.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> shows the same thing when I click the link you posted too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Phill's pictures are working for me.
> [edit] Nevermind, was cached lol


Uploaded again to a different host.



Work log here.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phill.*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> shows the same thing when I click the link you posted too.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Phill's pictures are working for me.
> [edit] Nevermind, was cached lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Uploaded again to a different host.
> 
> 
> 
> Work log here.
Click to expand...

Wow, that is a very nice build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phill.*
> 
> Uploaded again to a different host.
> 
> Work log here.


very nice and clean build, glad I can finally see it


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phill.*
> 
> Uploaded again to a different host.
> 
> Work log here.


glad you got that image working...


----------



## Phill.

Thanks guys.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't think there is too much to worry about if you don't do it for prolonged periods of time. Rads are pretty forgiving considering the temp tolerances that they are rated for. I think the weakest point would be the pump but so long as there is liquid flowing through it I don't believe it would be too much of an issue either. Just not prolonged periods of time though. No need to push your luck I guess right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't have a lot of room in your case you might try a LED strand from NZXT. Lots of people like them, they're 2 cable width like a 2 wire fan cable and sleeved with black sleeving so the wires don't stick out like a sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Alright thanks.
Also i've already got an NZXT LED strip, but the lighting is really harsh, and all i really want is to see the tubes and the block light up (its a raystorm) so i guess what i really need is a smaller UV light. I just have to find one somewhere lol..


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> That's hot. Probably even better looking in person?


Thanks guys! I was a bit afraid of going through with pink, but I'm really pleased with the result









Here is some more pictures!

Before watercooling the second card - it was my first ever watercooling setup!







Some people try to keep the tubing as short as possible but you can see that I love the big loops












And this is one more after adding the second gpu to the loop


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't think there is too much to worry about if you don't do it for prolonged periods of time. Rads are pretty forgiving considering the temp tolerances that they are rated for. I think the weakest point would be the pump but so long as there is liquid flowing through it I don't believe it would be too much of an issue either. Just not prolonged periods of time though. No need to push your luck I guess right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't have a lot of room in your case you might try a LED strand from NZXT. Lots of people like them, they're 2 cable width like a 2 wire fan cable and sleeved with black sleeving so the wires don't stick out like a sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright thanks.
> Also i've already got an NZXT LED strip, but the lighting is really harsh, and all i really want is to see the tubes and the block light up (its a raystorm) so i guess what i really need is a smaller UV light. I just have to find one somewhere lol..
Click to expand...

They make 4" UV Cats. Should have them at the Egg. I thought someone made a 6" but I can't find it. So maybe 4" will work for you.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tx-jose

guys im having a brain fart.....

I have a EK-FC460GTX GPU block in my cart at EKweb.....ready to order along with a case and more tubing.

Can i run the nickle plated block in my loop with no problems or would it cause issues??

current CPU only loop

Swiftech Apogee XT
Swiftech MCP-655-B
Fezer one UV blue colant
Fezer UV blue 3/4" OD tubing

and... 2...yes TWO 360 HardwwareLabs rads..

these.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4283/ex-rad-88/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_360_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s161

(bought 2 cause I was going to watercool my XBOX with 1 then sold the XBOX and just though oh heck why not....this is overkill.net right?? )


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated


You and your post padding...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> You and your post padding...


I post updated every time I add someone to the list of members on the first page, is there something wrong with that?

I will admit, my Rep/Post ratio was FAR higher before I made this thread and started saying "updated" every 5th post


----------



## jackofhearts495

haha no problem at all







I just love how quick you are


----------



## wermad

Bought some cheap tube from Homes to see how it holds up. As you can, the Primochill is plastercizing, which is pretty crappy since its not even a month old









The new tube is the clear one going from the bay res down to the bottom rad:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> haha no problem at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just love how quick you are


I never check this thread without updating it so that I do not loose my place, and I am in the habit of checking all of my subbed threads every time I visit the site. I like to get myself distracted from homework a lot


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bought some cheap tube from Homes to see how it holds up. As you can, the Primochill is plastercizing, which is pretty crappy since its not even a month old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new tube is the clear one going from the bay res down to the bottom rad:
> *snip*


I emailed my chem professor to see if she knew anything about the plasticizer. I'll post as soon as I get a response.

Seems like a lot of people are having problems with primochill lately.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bought some cheap tube from Homes to see how it holds up. As you can, the Primochill is plastercizing, which is pretty crappy since its not even a month old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new tube is the clear one going from the bay res down to the bottom rad:


Seems that if you disconnect any of the primochill clear tubing ever once it's had liquid in it the tubing begins to fog. I've never had it happen on any of my colored primochill tubing. Must be something about the clear.

btw, what ever happened to that beast 800D of urs?


----------



## ikem

ill be entering the w/c realm here soon









PC-7F with a little cpu EX240 loop.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> New revision of my watercooling setup


Very nice! Love that pink. Even though I'm macho and stuff..... I always forget sarcasm doesn't carry over well in text. lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bought some cheap tube from Homes to see how it holds up. As you can, the Primochill is plastercizing, which is pretty crappy since its not even a month old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new tube is the clear one going from the bay res down to the bottom rad:


That really sucks man! I have the red Primochill tubing, and haven't had a single issue with clouding thus far. Like fat_itallian_stallion said, it must just be the clear stuff, which is a bummer because I have great experience with this tubing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> ill be entering the w/c realm here soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PC-7F with a little cpu EX240 loop.


Welcome to the addiction =D


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I emailed my chem professor to see if she knew anything about the plasticizer. I'll post as soon as I get a response.
> Seems like a lot of people are having problems with primochill lately.


Thanks. It'll be interesting one what your prof can find







. +1 mate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Seems that if you disconnect any of the primochill clear tubing ever once it's had liquid in it the tubing begins to fog. I've never had it happen on any of my colored primochill tubing. Must be something about the clear.
> btw, what ever happened to that beast 800D of urs?


I kinda suspected this with the old tube size I had (1/2x3/4) but with this one its more apperrant. I noticed it only week after I filled the loop and I thought it was the dye loosing its color. After adding some more Mayhems (which tbh, was way more than necessary) it was pretty obvious that the tube was clouding.

Going through some tough times so I decided to downgrade a bit. Since I'm only running two cards (possibly switching to one powerful card down the road) with one monitor, I really didn't have a need for a large case and cooling. I'm pretty impressed with my 690 ii that I've decided to keep her for a while.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> That really sucks man! I have the red Primochill tubing, and haven't had a single issue with clouding thus far. Like fat_itallian_stallion said, it must just be the clear stuff, which is a bummer because I have great experience with this tubing


Thanks mate







. I've seen some Primochill and others that have clouded. The most extreme I believe was a Tygon that developed a thick layer of plaster after a short time.

I'm keeping track of the developments on my test log below.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> I post updated every time I add someone to the list of members on the first page, is there something wrong with that?
> I will admit, my Rep/Post ratio was FAR higher before I made this thread and started saying "updated" every 5th post


Now I know!


----------



## Schaden

Seeing that pink wc build up there made me drain my loop and add some mayhems pink milk









bit foamy :/
















^ closest to real life colour


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> Seeing that pink wc build up there made me drain my loop and add some mayhems pink milk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bit foamy :/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ closest to real life colour


Awesome, the pink builds I'm seeing are really sweet.


----------



## Bouf0010

i spy with my little eye an air bubble


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks. It'll be interesting one what your prof can find
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . +1 mate.
> I kinda suspected this with the old tube size I had (1/2x3/4) but with this one its more apperrant. I noticed it only week after I filled the loop and I thought it was the dye loosing its color. After adding some more Mayhems (which tbh, was way more than necessary) it was pretty obvious that the tube was clouding.
> Going through some tough times so I decided to downgrade a bit. Since I'm only running two cards (possibly switching to one powerful card down the road) with one monitor, I really didn't have a need for a large case and cooling. I'm pretty impressed with my 690 ii that I've decided to keep her for a while.
> Thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've seen some Primochill and others that have clouded. The most extreme I believe was a Tygon that developed a thick layer of plaster after a short time.
> I'm keeping track of the developments on my test log below.


I've been reading this lately, but the only tubing I've ever used until just recently was Primochill clear. I wonder if I've been doing something differently. I will say that I don't have biocide of any type in mine. Just straight distilled water. For about a month or so I ran Mayhems UV green without any issues as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schaden*
> 
> Seeing that pink wc build up there made me drain my loop and add some mayhems pink milk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bit foamy :/


That looks delicious!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> That looks delicious!


Nausea, heartburn, indigestion, upset stomach, diarrhea! Yay Pepto Bismol


----------



## mironccr345




----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Nausea, heartburn, indigestion, upset stomach, diarrhea! Yay Pepto Bismol


Lol, I guess that is the perfect pink for pepto!


----------



## iCrap

Are these yates good rad fans?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_69&products_id=27150


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Are these yates good rad fans?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_69&products_id=27150


I have those in Red and they've not failed me yet. Excellent for Controlled fans can undervolt them to 30% without stopping.









@werm... are you just running the dye? It may be one of the component ingredients that the tubing doesn't agree with. If you have some left over tubing you might soak it in Distilled to see if it breaks down. Let just keep adding water as it evaporates. Personally I think its a reaction to the dye. I could be wrong but I haven't seen too many people complaining about PC tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @werm... are you just running the dye? It may be one of the component ingredients that the tubing doesn't agree with. If you have some left over tubing you might soak it in Distilled to see if it breaks down. Let just keep adding water as it evaporates. Personally I think its a reaction to the dye. I could be wrong but I haven't seen too many people complaining about PC tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll be setting that up soon. I just got my new DD D5 vario and an xspc bay and its a super pita to get these xspc bay reservoirs to bleed. The Mayhems rep is following this development closely in my comparison thread. I'm hoping the new tube holds.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have those in Red and they've not failed me yet. Excellent for Controlled fans can undervolt them to 30% without stopping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @werm... are you just running the dye? It may be one of the component ingredients that the tubing doesn't agree with. If you have some left over tubing you might soak it in Distilled to see if it breaks down. Let just keep adding water as it evaporates. Personally I think its a reaction to the dye. I could be wrong but I haven't seen too many people complaining about PC tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks, im going to get them then..









Another question. Say i want color in my loop, i read to *NEVER* use dyes, correct? or are there some good dyes? are those premixed colored coolants also bad?
Edit: Question 2
Is there some kind of sensor i can like stick in the res or something to get my water temperature?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Thanks, im going to get them then..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question. Say i want color in my loop, i read to *NEVER* use dyes, correct? or are there some good dyes? are those premixed colored coolants also bad?
> Edit: Question 2
> Is there some kind of sensor i can like stick in the res or something to get my water temperature?


some are worse than others. Anyone that puts copper sulfate in the loop as a biocide as well as a dye might as well just be ready to pull the loop apart in a week, makes it gunk really quick. Dyes do break down, but depends on the exact components of the solution ur using. If you're not lazy and don't mind cleaning the blocks just use whatever u want as a fluid, sans ammonia. I stopped using biocide and only use a filter (also helps with dyes). Haven't had any gunk or build up since.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Thanks, im going to get them then..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question. Say i want color in my loop, i read to *NEVER* use dyes, correct? or are there some good dyes? are those premixed colored coolants also bad?
> Edit: Question 2
> Is there some kind of sensor i can like stick in the res or something to get my water temperature?


I'm using Mayhems and I've had great success with them.

A sensor for water temp, not really my cup of tea but here are a few:

http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/default.php?cPath=109_88


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm using Mayhems and I've had great success with them.
> A sensor for water temp, not really my cup of tea but here are a few:
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/default.php?cPath=109_88


I found a solution for the water temp, so now i just need to figure out the dye.
Where can i get the dye in the US? the site looks like UK only. Also does the Mayhems break down and screw up components?


----------



## jackofhearts495

I've only read good things about Mayhem's, personally.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I've only read good things about Mayhem's, personally.


Sounds like i will go with them.
Where can i get it though? i looked on performance pcs and the mayhems section is empty ... :/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Sounds like i will go with them.
> Where can i get it though? i looked on performance pcs and the mayhems section is empty ... :/


Get if directly from them. Shipping is about the same as US retailers will charge you but it does take a week or two for it to arrive. I got their stuff directly from them and its been a pleasant experience:

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Get if directly from them. Shipping is about the same as US retailers will charge you but it does take a week or two for it to arrive. I got their stuff directly from them and its been a pleasant experience:
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/


Oh i see, thanks. $12 only. Not bad.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Drained my loop the other day which I put like 20+ drops of Mayhem's red dye in. It broke down really quick (3 months) and turned into a light magenta color. No gunk build up or anything, but it was disappointing and I had to literally flush the rads with enough hot water and lemon juice to fill a swimming pool with lemonaid







.


----------



## linuxfueled

http://youtu.be/ttGqBPaKXTI






watch this video to see just how thin the reservoir really is


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

I think I'ma stick with the plan for the cheaper Distilled coolant.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linuxfueled*
> 
> http://youtu.be/ttGqBPaKXTI
> (snip)


holy crap, I love that front reservoir! nothing says "I watercool my PC" like a waterfall down the front of your case!


----------



## linuxfueled

Thanks,

This video shows just how thin the reservoir really is. I bring the HD camera over the top and down to get a better feel for the size.
The void or water containing area inside measures 3/16" by 17" tall by 8" wide. The design was very dificult to keep from leaking.
The water was not the problem, pressure when over clocking from heat!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Drained my loop the other day which I put like 20+ drops of Mayhem's red dye in. It broke down really quick (3 months) and turned into a light magenta color. No gunk build up or anything, but it was disappointing and I had to literally flush the rads with enough hot water and lemon juice to fill a swimming pool with lemonaid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Did you run PT Nuke or similar?
PT Nuke breaks down the dye very quickly indeed,Mayhem suggests a silver coil instead


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Did you run PT Nuke or similar?
> PT Nuke breaks down the dye very quickly indeed,Mayhem suggests a silver coil instead


More specifically, PT Nuke CU (copper sulfate). The PHN variety does not have this problem/reaction.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> More specifically, PT Nuke CU (copper sulfate). The PHN variety does not have this problem/reaction.


Correct. The issue is more prevalent in Glycol mixes,adding Cu based biocide gives classic 'gunk'

Im one of his testers,currently got his rad on test and its a cracker!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Correct. The issue is more prevalent in Glycol mixes,adding Cu based biocide gives classic 'gunk'
> Im one of his testers,currently got his rad on test and its a cracker!


how are the results of his rad looking so far?


----------



## kroks

New graphic cards
































Cooled by Mora 3


----------



## nabarun




----------



## jackofhearts495

Wow, two great builds. Nice job guys!


----------



## jonnylaris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroks*
> 
> New graphic cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooled by Mora 3


What coolant is that? It looks very red which is what I would like for my new setup


----------



## kroks

Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra red








very good coolant (no gunk or stain..)


----------



## Dradien

IMG_0918 (Large).JPG 326k .JPG file

I nifty (I thought) shot I took earlier. Ever since I moved the rad to the top of the case inside, it looks so much better without the huge tube running across everything.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradien*
> 
> IMG_0918 (Large).JPG 326k .JPG file
> 
> I nifty (I thought) shot I took earlier. Ever since I moved the rad to the top of the case inside, it looks so much better without the huge tube running across everything.


Just need to equally space out that anti-kink and it looks pretty sweet


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> I post updated every time I add someone to the list of members on the first page, is there something wrong with that?
> I will admit, my Rep/Post ratio was FAR higher before I made this thread and started saying "updated" every 5th post


Annnnnd now your Rep/Post ratio = 0...







It must be hard to be a mod...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bought some cheap tube from Homes to see how it holds up. As you can, the Primochill is plastercizing, which is pretty crappy since its not even a month old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new tube is the clear one going from the bay res down to the bottom rad:
> *Snip*


I had Tygon cloud up on me once and I just went to colored tubing, I'm surprised the clear Primochill fogs, my colored Primo hasn't had any issues. The only thing that's leached has been my EK plated barbs that I recently discovered have been flaking nicely all over the inside of my loop... Thought I had dodged that bullet too haha. Eddy still managed to get me I guess








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'll be setting that up soon. I just got my new DD D5 vario and an xspc bay and its a super pita to get these xspc bay reservoirs to bleed. The Mayhems rep is following this development closely in my comparison thread. I'm hoping the new tube holds.


Glad to see you went for the D5, I'm curious to hear how you like that res... My Koolance dual D5 is a pita to bleed too, I found that it bled best on its side, but that was specific to it's design. Always happy to see another D5 owner instead of those silly people who get DD_'s! /troll


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Annnnnd now your Rep/Post ratio = 0...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It must be hard to be a mod...


Editor, I am an editor, mods have to do lame stuff like handle reported posts and warning people about behavior. I get to do cool stuff like run contests and pick featured content, and stuff like that









but yea, I am sad I lost my rep







I had hoped to get my 5th and final flame pretty soon.


----------



## Dradien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Just need to equally space out that anti-kink and it looks pretty sweet


Thanks! My wife ordered it for me without knowing the sizing of the tubing, so I had to kind of forcefully wind it on whenever I redid everything. Moving it is hard, so I'm just gonna buy more tubing when I crossfire soon, and get the proper size coils and make them a bit more even.

If you don't mind, another one.

I just got a Canon T1i (500D for you EU peeps), and I'm loving it.

LEDs.jpg 725k .jpg file


----------



## wermad

@Salt

ddc are notorious for overheating in bay reservoirs. I had a gpu-slot blower for my xspc bay res and the mcp355. Since space is limited in the 690 ii, I had no choice but to go with a bay res. I'm returning the crappy X20-750 pump and just got the D5 and I'm really happy with it. I've read that D5 bay reservoirs are hard to bleed. I hate that Xspc has a nozzle from the res inlet going straight to the pump's inlet. But, I had done this before with my xspc ddc bay res, its just a matter of sticking in some cable ties to break up the incoming flow of air/water.


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

I posted in here before, but I guess I got overlooked, since I'm not on the spreadsheet.

I'm running an H70 I bought on OCN in a front-mounted intake position.

Original Configuration:


After awhile, I decided to tinker with it to improve the performance more.
I swapped a more powerful fan in place of the Antec Tri-Cool on the front, and made a shroud out of a junk fan.

Current Setup:


I'm pretty happy with it so far. It dropped my temperatures (100% load, OC'd) around 22C over the stock air cooler. It's also amusing to see people who only know a bit about computers get really impressed by a watercooling setup.

It does add a bit of weight to the case, though - something I should've factored in considering the system was designed to be easily transportable for LAN play.


----------



## kamikaze_

lol


----------



## agentsmith5150

Updated pictures with Meyhems Deep Blue dye. Sorry for the camera phone...DSLR was dead >.>


----------



## derickwm

Add another entry for me. Finished my Syrillian Test Bench build. It's already on the market so I can move onto my next project
















































































































































I'm missing a CC adapter box deal otherwise there'd be much more lights, like in the res and such. Let me know what you think


----------



## tuffarts

When your radiator, is larger than your MB... You may be an overclocking *******


----------



## Buckley

My build so far.. Gpublock and GT fans on its way..


----------



## Ixtli




----------



## Pedros

Here's my system:


----------



## Onions

^wow well done looks amazing


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*


So clean! Did you... sleeve your tubes? That's such a neat look, +notenoughrep


----------



## jermzz

Now that I actually took some half way decent pictures, I don't mind posting here


----------



## t-ramp

Nice rig.









I'm having a hard time deciding whether I want to get my 480 back underwater and how to go about it...


----------



## Pedros

Yeah... all my sleeving was custom









This was during the build ...










i was able to fit a 420 rad in the top









Jer... Great Build man! Congrats my friend!


----------



## jermzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> Yeah... all my sleeving was custom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was during the build ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i was able to fit a 420 rad in the top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jer... Great Build man! Congrats my friend!


Thanks! Did you do all the sleeving yourself? Your rig is amazingly clean!


----------



## Pedros

Yep... all done by me


----------



## ProfeZZor X

That's a sick rig Jermzz... I was wondering when I'd see pics of a fully cooled R4E board. Now I'm certain that I'll likely follow in your footsteps with mine.

What RAM are you using under those cooling blocks? I was going to use my 32bg of the G.SKILL Ripjaws, but I'm not so sure now.


----------



## jermzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That's a sick rig Jermzz... I was wondering when I'd see pics of a fully cooled R4E board. Now I'm certain that I'll likely follow in your footsteps with mine.
> What RAM are you using under those cooling blocks? I was going to use my 32bg of the G.SKILL Ripjaws, but I'm not so sure now.


They're Dominators, that's all EK makes RAM blocks for. Ripjaws are good too, if you don't want to cool your ram. Be sure to make a build log!


----------



## Ceadderman

Those are some really clean rigs guys. Hope I can get mine done as clean.

Really like those kink coils jermzz. I might have to so something in black for mine.









Hey Pedros is that plexi you're using around the Motherboard?









~Ceadder


----------



## Pedros

Ceadder, yep! black opaque plexi


----------



## Ceadderman

Niiiiiiice.









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

Can anybody tell me what rad this is?


Also, can an NZXT Phantom fit an RS240 + RS120 + Another 240rad (The one pictured above) AND fit 3 HDDs + 1 SSD?


----------



## Onions

looks like my old rad







i think its got exchanger in the name or xchange maybe?? as for the case i think you could jsut mount the hdd and the ssd in the 5 inch bays up top...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Can anybody tell me what rad this is?
> 
> 
> Also, can an NZXT Phantom fit an RS240 + RS120 + Another 240rad (The one pictured above) AND fit 3 HDDs + 1 SSD?


It's Black Ice Pro II 240 or Black Ice GT Stealth 240.

I'm thinking the Pro II though.









I can't say about the NZXT Phantom though. Apologies.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Can anybody tell me what rad this is?
> 
> Also, can an NZXT Phantom fit an RS240 + RS120 + Another 240rad (The one pictured above) AND fit 3 HDDs + 1 SSD?


Black Ice "X"-flow. I hear they're not that great


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Can anybody tell me what rad this is?
> 
> Also, can an NZXT Phantom fit an RS240 + RS120 + Another 240rad (The one pictured above) AND fit 3 HDDs + 1 SSD?
> 
> 
> 
> Black Ice "X"-flow. I hear they're not that great
Click to expand...









*Ack!* Don't say that!









Those are the only Rads beside the Koolance ones that are slim enough to mount inside my case and leave the window clear with 20mm fans. I want the XFlow cause it would keep my loop clean looking.









My OCD is having a hissy fit right now.







hehe

~Ceadder


----------



## Onions

"not that great" means its maybe 4 or 5 degrees warmer... throw a 120 in somewhere problem solved


----------



## Ceadderman

I shouldn't have any problem then cause I'm gonna run 360 no matter what and go from there.









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

Well is it worth adding this rad in a loop with an RS240 and RS120?
Oh and is that rad worth at least $20?


----------



## jermzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Well is it worth adding this rad in a loop with an RS240 and RS120?
> Oh and is that rad worth at least $20?


depends on what you're cooling.

And they're $60 new, so in good condition I could definitely see it being worth $20.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4085/ex-rad-86/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_240_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Black.html


----------



## Ceadderman

5x120? Shouldn't matter should it? Unless he's cooling some government nuclear hive reactor setup?









~Ceadder


----------



## jermzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 5x120? Shouldn't matter should it? Unless he's cooling some government nuclear hive reactor setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


this IS OCN..... Overkill Cooling.net


----------



## Los Hog

For 20 bucks you cant lose.


----------



## wermad

For cheap (including shipping) I wouldn't mind getting it. But I rather get the most out of my loop


----------



## iCrap

Maybe i shoulda clarified... i've already got the rad but i ended up not using it. I bought it a while ago before doing any research on parts, for $20 shipped.

So its worth adding then? right now i'm just cooling the CPU with the 120 and the 240 but eventually either 1 or 2 GPUs also.


----------



## wermad

Go for it


----------



## Phoenix777

all the pictures here make my computer look like crap








but im too poor for those fancy barbs and stuff =\


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoenix777*
> 
> all the pictures here make my computer look like crap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but im too poor for those fancy barbs and stuff =\


Looks like you have a pretty sweet rig anyway. I wouldnt try to top some of the rigs in these forums. Will cost you too much. Be happy with what you have.

*Thinks about next build and where i can sell my soul to pay for it. Because I'm good enough, I'm smart enough, and, doggonit, people like me!*


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jermzz*
> 
> They're Dominators, that's all EK makes RAM blocks for. Ripjaws are good too, if you don't want to cool your ram. Be sure to make a build log!


Like most people here, I put myself on a budget limit to what I'll spend. However in my case that philosophy is almost out the door, because I'm willing to wait it out to get some of the upper-mid-to-higher end components rather than just settling for what I can afford and regret it in less than a year. It's forums like this where I'm learning from other's mistakes, and gaining valuable knowledge to build my rig efficiently, and build it right the first time. You can almost say that I have all the time in the world to finish this rig, however I've given myself until the summer (or before the end of) to complete it. Any more than 6 months and my wife will be wondering why my rig is taking so long, or why it's just sitting in the corner taking up space. So I'll have no choice but to keep the project moving forward until it's completed.

But yeah, I'll be sure to do a build log once more parts start coming in. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## HAFenvy

A little upgrade to my "mid-tower" HAF 922 build...

Before...



After...



Changes: HX750 upgraded to HX1050, 2nd GTX 580 for SLI with parallel coolant flow setup, custom loop changed to GPU cooling only, added H80 with push/pull for CPU only cooling, lots of cable management clean up (was a bit messy behind the motherboard tray).

I think this will keep me satisfied for a while


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jermzz*
> 
> Now that I actually took some half way decent pictures, I don't mind posting here


^I love this build

Here is a sneak peek of my M10









Waiting on a RMA to leak test the loop. 2 RX360's and 1 EX360


----------



## jermzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Like most people here, I put myself on a budget limit to what I'll spend. However in my case that philosophy is almost out the door, because I'm willing to wait it out to get some of the upper-mid-to-higher end components rather than just settling for what I can afford and regret it in less than a year. It's forums like this where I'm learning from other's mistakes, and gaining valuable knowledge to build my rig efficiently, and build it right the first time. You can almost say that I have all the time in the world to finish this rig, however I've given myself until the summer (or before the end of) to complete it. Any more than 6 months and my wife will be wondering why my rig is taking so long, or why it's just sitting in the corner taking up space. So I'll have no choice but to keep the project moving forward until it's completed.
> But yeah, I'll be sure to do a build log once more parts start coming in. Thanks for the advice.


Problem is that if you take too long to build your rig, your stuff becomes outdated before you have a chance to enjoy it in all of it's top of the line glory.


----------



## jermzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> ^I love this build
> Here is a sneak peek of my M10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on a RMA to leak test the loop. 2 RX360's and 1 EX360


OOOOOOOoooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoo that res is PRETTY! Whatchya gonna put in it, and what color / tubing scheme you gonna go with? you got a work log?


----------



## Hydrored

Looking at Mayhems pastel white. I know the black/white has been done many times before but I figured who cares it's mine after all. All the parts are listed in my sig, nothing as nice as your rig. I have been cleaning up all the imperfections I don't like. The gaps in between the removable tray and the case is filled along with the rest of the holes with cut foam. No build log but I may put something together when it's done I have a lot of pics. Sleeving now and I hate it


----------



## fshizl

Eh??

Eh??


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eh??
> 
> Eh??


I tried voting for you not enough rep though


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

The Mod of the Month poll is up! everyone go vote!!! (link in my sig)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Maybe i shoulda clarified... i've already got the rad but i ended up not using it. I bought it a while ago before doing any research on parts, for $20 shipped.
> 
> So its worth adding then? right now i'm just cooling the CPU with the 120 and the 240 but eventually either 1 or 2 GPUs also.


If you don't use it, lemme know. I might take it off your hands to run temporarily until I can get the rest of my kit together.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> A little upgrade to my "mid-tower" HAF 922 build...


As you know, I love your build. Personally, I would have added a standalone 120 rad to the rear instead of the H80 though


----------



## discipline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eh??
> Eh??


O man I would have voted for you but all I had to go on were your artsy myspace angle shots that didn't show the case entirely.








At least now I know it looks good! Not that it matters lol


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jermzz*
> 
> Problem is that if you take too long to build your rig, your stuff becomes outdated before you have a chance to enjoy it in all of it's top of the line glory.


Such is life though... Isn't it?

Hard to believe that 6 months would make that big of a leap in technology. Thankfully I haven't committed to any expensive items outside of the motherboard and CPU - which aren't going anywhere anytime soon. In the mean time, I've already committed to water cooling the CPU GPU, and thanks to YOU... my RAM. Buying all of those cooling components is fairly easy to decide on and won't become obsolete during that time, I don't think...


----------



## skyn3t

Allright Guys here is the thing
RX360>>CPU)25K>>RX240>>>VGA570>>VGA570>>PUMP/RES , One MCP655 will be enough or i need one more Pump? i don't want overkill in pump just head's up with what i have. Work Log right Bellow with all info.


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Allright Guys here is the thing
> RX360>>CPU)25K>>RX240>>>VGA570>>VGA570>>PUMP/RES , One MCP655 will be enough or i need one more Pump? i don't want overkill in pump just head's up with what i have. Work Log right Bellow with all info.


Yes that pump will be plenty


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discipline*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fshizl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eh??
> Eh??
> 
> 
> 
> O man I would have voted for you but all I had to go on were your artsy myspace angle shots that didn't show the case entirely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least now I know it looks good! Not that it matters lol
Click to expand...

The be lookin rather smecsy I must say. But that SATA cable needs to have the sleeving changed to Brown Black or the Olive color. That brite dayglo sleeve sticks out like a sore weiner.









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you don't use it, lemme know. I might take it off your hands to run temporarily until I can get the rest of my kit together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Alright. Yea im not sure yet. Im not even sure where i would put it. I sorta maxed out what i can fit in my case..


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> A little upgrade to my "mid-tower" HAF 922 build...
> 
> Before...
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> 
> 
> 
> Changes: HX750 upgraded to HX1050, 2nd GTX 580 for SLI with parallel coolant flow setup, custom loop changed to GPU cooling only, added H80 with push/pull for CPU only cooling, lots of cable management clean up (was a bit messy behind the motherboard tray).
> 
> I think this will keep me satisfied for a while


Looks really good but I have to ask, why didn't you just buy another 120mm rad and some fans so you could keep the CPU in the loop?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eh??
> Eh??


That's one of the coolest builds I've ever seen. Not because it's insanely over the top, I just really like the theme.

And no 24-pin connector yet?


----------



## Ceadderman

24 pin connector is in Stealth mode.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Ceadderman

That's an interesting Block setup Bundy who makes it?

I'd like to see one that is in the shape of an Iron Cross. I think that would be BADEASH!, but that setup is pretty sweet looking.









Which coming from me is pretty good considering I'm not into brite shiny shinies.









~Ceadder


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Looks good! That Tygon is bent to the limit, lol, but I dont see any kinks. Great job.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Byakuya27

better pictures


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Looks really good but I have to ask, why didn't you just buy another 120mm rad and some fans so you could keep the CPU in the loop?


Thanks! I went with the H80 for a couple reasons actually. First, when I originally added the GTX 580 to the loop with the CPU block, I noticed my coolant flow rate dropped quite a bit (the Koolance block is much more restrictive). Adding another GPU block, even in parallel, would be another hit to the pump and flow rate so I thought it would be fun to go dual loop. Second, going dual loop would allow me to isolate the two different heat load profiles of the GPU vs CPU (either way I wanted to go dual loop). Going dual loop meant either buying another pump, reservoir and radiator and stuffing all that into the case or go with a kit... the H80 was on sale so I thought... hey why not.

I made a point of temperature testing before and after to see what the effect would be. These tests were done with the CPU back at my 2.8GHz testing baseline, all fans on low (900rpm) and with the H80 on setting one (slow/quiet). I ran the OCCT GPU test (Furmark with some CPU load) for one hour and monitored the temperatures... this is what I got:

Ambient: 22c

Single GTX 580 + i7 on the same loop
CPU Idle: 37c *** CPU during test: 53c
GPU Idle: 32c *** GPU during test: 48c

Two GTX 580 (SLI) on loop, i7 on H80
CPU Idle: 36c *** CPU during test: 43c
GPU Idle: 32c *** GPU during test: 61c

Not super amazing numbers but you have to keep in mind, all my fans are slow and super quiet. I water cool to make my system quiet, not to get crazy low numbers on my cooling. Kind of nice being able to game on a system and the loudest component is the 200mm fan in the front.

Oh and if I crank the fans to full (1500RPM) and my H80 to setting 3 (fastest) which puts those same replacement fans on the H80 at 1500RPM, I knock the GPU temperatures down by another 10c and my CPU by 5c when tested for an hour.

I can live with that, next will be to overclock the video cards now that they are on their own loop and see what they can handle


----------



## fshizl

kevin, help this man cast a vote please









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> I tried voting for you not enough rep though


----------



## Ironkidz

Here is my WC build....









Case: 800D
PSU: Corsair AX1200
GPU: 2X GTX 590 Quad SLI @ Overvolted w/580 clocks
CPU: i7 990x @ 4.3 ghz
RAM: Dominator GT 12GB 1866 Cas 8
Storage: 4X M28 128gb SSD's in RAID 0
Cooling: Koolance for the CPU, GPU's, RAM, and Chipset
MB: EVGA X58 Classified 759
Fans: BitFenix Spectre Pro


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> Here is my WC build....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case: 800D
> PSU: Corsair AX1200
> GPU: 2X GTX 590 Quad SLI @ Overvolted w/580 clocks
> CPU: i7 990x @ 4.3 ghz
> RAM: Dominator GT 12GB 1866 Cas 8
> Storage: 4X M28 128gb SSD's in RAID 0
> Cooling: Koolance for the CPU, GPU's, RAM, and Chipset
> MB: EVGA X58 Classified 759
> Fans: BitFenix Spectre Pro


That rig is insanely clean... Excellent job









This kind of craftsmanship is exactly the kind of standard I will expect from myself when I get to the final stages of building my rig.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> Here is my WC build....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case: 800D
> PSU: Corsair AX1200
> GPU: 2X GTX 590 Quad SLI @ Overvolted w/580 clocks
> CPU: i7 990x @ 4.3 ghz
> RAM: Dominator GT 12GB 1866 Cas 8
> Storage: 4X M28 128gb SSD's in RAID 0
> Cooling: Koolance for the CPU, GPU's, RAM, and Chipset
> MB: EVGA X58 Classified 759
> Fans: BitFenix Spectre Pro


Not bad!!!


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jermzz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> ^I love this build
> Here is a sneak peek of my M10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on a RMA to leak test the loop. 2 RX360's and 1 EX360
> 
> 
> 
> OOOOOOOoooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoo that res is PRETTY! Whatchya gonna put in it, and what color / tubing scheme you gonna go with? you got a work log?
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1205926/build-log-case-labs-m10-build-sleep-deprivation/0_50
There you go nothing fancy


----------



## Los Hog

Love the job you did on the fans Hydrored


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Love the job you did on the fans Hydrored


Thank you Sir, Sand, Prime, Paint, Sand, Paint, Sand, Clear times 13 lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl*
> 
> kevin, help this man cast a vote please


his vote counted.


----------



## bjgrenke

Hey guys, I'm new to watercooling, but I'm thinking of getting an XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit and eventually adding a block for my 7970 and a RX240 rad. Just wondering if this loop is okay? To me it seems logical for temps, cooling the CPU then cooling the hot water produced from that before going to the GPU, but I'm seeing most people go to the 2nd rad just before going back to the res/pump. Advice?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm new to watercooling, but I'm thinking of getting an XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit and eventually adding a block for my 7970 and a RX240 rad. Just wondering if this loop is okay? To me it seems logical for temps, cooling the CPU then cooling the hot water produced from that before going to the GPU, but I'm seeing most people go to the 2nd rad just before going back to the res/pump. Advice?


Go Pump/res > CPU > RS360 > GPU > RX240 > Pump/res

The reason is that the water in the res will stay at a cooler temperature. Your setup is the same its just cooled after it goes through the pump/res.

In all reality, it probably wouldn't matter much, the water temperature would eventually reach a plane and not change based on loop design. I think the CPU/GPU temps would just stay lower for longer.

EDIT: Also, trying to navigate the tube between that pump/res and the rad will be awful in your design as a heads up.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm new to watercooling, but I'm thinking of getting an XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit and eventually adding a block for my 7970 and a RX240 rad. Just wondering if this loop is okay? To me it seems logical for temps, cooling the CPU then cooling the hot water produced from that before going to the GPU, but I'm seeing most people go to the 2nd rad just before going back to the res/pump. Advice?


as stated above, its not going to make a difference what the loop order is over time.

Do what looks best and works best for you while maintaining the shortest tube length possible


----------



## jackofhearts495

Post #2



















Added a side window (not a fun process), put the radiator down bottom (explained later), changed out the stock XSPC fans with AP-15's, which I painted white, added a blue LED fan in he back.

The whole point of today was to put in GPU in the loop. Unfortunately, it turns out that XFX 6950's have freaking 6870 PCB's.







I can't believe I didn't find that out before-hand... I ended up re-assembling my loop in a way that'd make it easy to add my 6950 to the loop once I get a block, hence the radiator down bottom.

I'll eventually get my 6950 wet in a few weeks, once I return my 6950 EK block to Germany. Speaking of which, is that possible to return if it's been opened? I broke the seals, took the block out (with gloves) and took me all of 5 seconds to realize that it wasn't a match.

AP-15's are amazing by the way, I highly recommend them to anyone.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Speaking of which, is that possible to return if it's been opened? I broke the seals, took the block out (with gloves) and took me all of 5 seconds to realize that it wasn't a match.


Depends on who you bought it from. FrozenCPU in the US doesn't take back any water cooling. Check the seller's website for return policy.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Aquatuning.us

Trying to find the return policy...


----------



## TheJesus

http://www.aquatuning.us/shop_content.php/coID/1204

"Wrong Item Ordered"

They'll take it back if you pay for shipping


----------



## jackofhearts495

Ahh thanks. For some reason I've having trouble connecting to the site, and even more trouble trying to find relevant warranty information hidden in all the Google translations









I'll take a look at it tomorrow.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Ahh thanks. For some reason I've having trouble connecting to the site, and even more trouble trying to find relevant warranty information hidden in all the Google translations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take a look at it tomorrow.


Me too, I used Google Cache


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/shop_content.php/coID/1204
> "Wrong Item Ordered"
> They'll take it back if you pay for shipping


Better than some US retailers.

I say sell it here and have a minimal impact on on your wallet. USPS charges $47 usd using a medium "flat rate" box to ship to Germany.


----------



## K62-RIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> Here is my WC build....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case: 800D
> PSU: Corsair AX1200
> GPU: 2X GTX 590 Quad SLI @ Overvolted w/580 clocks
> CPU: i7 990x @ 4.3 ghz
> RAM: Dominator GT 12GB 1866 Cas 8
> Storage: 4X M28 128gb SSD's in RAID 0
> Cooling: Koolance for the CPU, GPU's, RAM, and Chipset
> MB: EVGA X58 Classified 759
> Fans: BitFenix Spectre Pro


Epic build mate +rep. Well done.


----------



## K62-RIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Byakuya27*
> 
> better pictures


Nice build mate. Love'n the red.







+rep.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Here is mine.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Better than some US retailers.
> I say sell it here and have a minimal impact on on your wallet. USPS charges $47 usd using a medium "flat rate" box to ship to Germany.


That is pure nonsense, how could they charge that much. It was like $10 for my sleeving to come from Germany :|


----------



## jackofhearts495

I don't have the rep to sell on the marketplace









I think I may have found a buyer, though. Boy would that be nice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> That is pure nonsense, how could they charge that much. It was like $10 for my sleeving to come from Germany :|


These companies get shipping discounts. Us consumers have to make due with the big shippers (usps, ups, fedex, dhl, etc.) and their outrageous shipping fees. I've shipped to Australia, UK, Spain, New Zealand, Brazil, Mexico, & Canada and usps tends to have better rates. That's why I use them frequently. I doubt the whole retail packaged block will fit in the "flat rate small" box as that is only $16 to ship to Germany.


----------



## wermad

edit:







damn server error and delay caused double post. sorry


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> That is pure nonsense, how could they charge that much. It was like $10 for my sleeving to come from Germany :|


i dont think a sleeving kit is as big as a block is it ?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> i dont think a sleeving kit is as big as a block is it ?


As big, its bigger, but its about a tenth of the weight


----------



## jackofhearts495

I think I found a buyer









What's the cheapest way to ship domestically? I was thinking a USPS flat rate box, but didn't know if anyone used any other methods.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I think I found a buyer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the cheapest way to ship domestically? I was thinking a USPS flat rate box, but didn't know if anyone used any other methods.


USPS is almost always cheapest. Second place would be FedEx and they tend to handle packages the best out of UPS, USPS, and DHL.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> USPS is almost always cheapest. Second place would be FedEx and they tend to handle packages the best out of UPS, USPS, and DHL.


UPS and Fedex are the worst handlers. Now...where's that Fedex delivery package tossing youtube vid


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> UPS and Fedex are the worst handlers. Now...where's that Fedex delivery package tossing youtube vid


I haven't had my packages ruined by FedEx yet, USPS and UPS have both destroyed things.


----------



## Ceadderman

Once FedEX dropped my 1st HDD box I avoid them like a lice infested plague victim. Give em a wide berth and bring fire.









~Ceadder


----------



## jermzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I don't have the rep to sell on the marketplace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I may have found a buyer, though. Boy would that be nice.


Yeah, it's so dumb you can have 100s of posts, build logs and positive contribution to the site and still not be able to sell in market for years....... really.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I think I found a buyer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the cheapest way to ship domestically? I was thinking a USPS flat rate box, but didn't know if anyone used any other methods.


USPS Priority is usually always the best price / shipping speed ratio you're gonna get.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jermzz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I don't have the rep to sell on the marketplace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I may have found a buyer, though. Boy would that be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's so dumb you can have 100s of posts, build logs and positive contribution to the site and still not be able to sell in market for years....... really.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I think I found a buyer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the cheapest way to ship domestically? I was thinking a USPS flat rate box, but didn't know if anyone used any other methods.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> USPS Priority is usually always the best price / shipping speed ratio you're gonna get.
Click to expand...

It didn't take me too long to get enough Rep to sell. But some people think I'm a Rep whore. I thought people just rep'ed me for my looks.







lol

I think Flat Rate is the best if you can get an Office with more than just the typical small medium and large boxes. My local Post Office hardly carries anything just a few sizes no tubes no flat poster size no nothing really. It's a wonder I can get anything mailed sometimes. But still flat rate seems to be the best bang for the buck because there is no weight restriction. If you feel like sending someone a lead brick you can. And it only costs you $5. Try that with Priority.







heheheh

~Ceadder


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It didn't take me too long to get enough Rep to sell. But some people think I'm a Rep whore. I thought people just rep'ed me for my looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> I think Flat Rate is the best if you can get an Office with more than just the typical small medium and large boxes. My local Post Office hardly carries anything just a few sizes no tubes no flat poster size no nothing really. It's a wonder I can get anything mailed sometimes. But still flat rate seems to be the best bang for the buck because there is no weight restriction. If you feel like sending someone a lead brick you can. And it only costs you $5. Try that with Priority.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heheheh
> ~Ceadder


Yeah it didn't take me long either to get enough rep to sell. Around 10 months. I just helped people with rainmeter through "Post your desktop" like threads and PM's. The only problem is I have 40 rep but proably helped over 80 users find wallpapers, rainmeter themes, start orbs, so on and so on.

I guess I wish people actually used the rep system a little more.









Doing reveiws or build logs tend to grab alot of easy rep though. I think I went about it the hard way


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Yeah it didn't take me long either to get enough rep to sell. Around 10 months. I just helped people with rainmeter through "Post your desktop" like threads and PM's. The only problem is I have 40 rep but proably helped over 80 users find wallpapers, rainmeter themes, start orbs, so on and so on.
> I guess I wish people actually used the rep system a little more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing reveiws or build logs tend to grab alot of easy rep though. I think I went about it the hard way


i thought you needed 75 reps to sell


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Yeah it didn't take me long either to get enough rep to sell. Around 10 months. I just helped people with rainmeter through "Post your desktop" like threads and PM's. The only problem is I have 40 rep but proably helped over 80 users find wallpapers, rainmeter themes, start orbs, so on and so on.
> I guess I wish people actually used the rep system a little more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing reveiws or build logs tend to grab alot of easy rep though. I think I went about it the hard way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i thought you needed 75 reps to sell
Click to expand...

Nope, just 35


----------



## manu97416

im gonna buy a wc kit too
i wish shipping in europe/ internationally would be cheaper (some people consider israel europe







)
whatever you do dont use DHL... they are the worst
shipped a package that didnt arrive at the guys house and they sent it back plus asked for like 45$ it was a small box...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## jermzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Yeah it didn't take me long either to get enough rep to sell. Around 10 months. I just helped people with rainmeter through "Post your desktop" like threads and PM's. The only problem is I have 40 rep but proably helped over 80 users find wallpapers, rainmeter themes, start orbs, so on and so on.
> I guess I wish people actually used the rep system a little more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing reveiws or build logs tend to grab alot of easy rep though. I think I went about it the hard way


Maybe I'll try your method. My build log has like 170 replies and 7k views and i pulled like 6 rep outta it









I used to have some pretty good rainmeter stuff going on.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> UPS and Fedex are the worst handlers. Now...where's that Fedex delivery package tossing youtube vid


I had to send back my Hardware Labs SR1 560 radiator do to the shroud housing crushing the radiator fins, UPS sucks!









It cost me $34 dollars to ship it back to where I bought it one state away, we are only talking 5 pounds here!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I don't have the rep to sell on the marketplace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I may have found a buyer, though. Boy would that be nice.


edit: saw you found the block a new home


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Yeah it didn't take me long either to get enough rep to sell. Around 10 months. I just helped people with rainmeter through "Post your desktop" like threads and PM's. The only problem is I have 40 rep but proably helped over 80 users find wallpapers, rainmeter themes, start orbs, so on and so on.
> I guess I wish people actually used the rep system a little more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing reveiws or build logs tend to grab alot of easy rep though. I think I went about it the hard way


Took me 2 months


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Took me 2 months


Same. I joined in early May, put my EK blocks on the market early July


----------



## Hobo82

Hey all,

First post on OCN! Wanted to get opinions, positive (and negative if constructive) feedback on my watercooling build. Just waiting on white single-braided cables for ATX and PCIE and a smaller res so it fits under my graphics card and I'll be finished.

Take a look and let me know what you think. Note: This picture was taken during leak test, so the observant eye might note the 24 pin is disconnected and jumpered.










Specs:
Fractal Design Arc Midi
/w modded window (not in picture)
AsRock Extreme4 Gen3
I5 2500K O/C @ 4.5ghz
w/ EK Supreme-HF Acetal block
Sapphire 7970 O/C @ 1125/1575
w/ EK FC7970 Acetal block
Antec 850w High Current Pro
Crucial M4 128gb
Seagate Baracuda 1TB 7200 rpm
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600
EK D5 X-Res Top 140
w/ Alphacool VPP655
XSPC High Flex PVC Tubing - 3/8" ID (5/8"OD) - White
Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Rad
Black Ice SR 140 Rad
Bitspower 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD Compression Fittings
NZXT 24" sleaved LED - White
LITE-ON Black Internal 12X Blu-ray
Some 8x fan controller I can't remember the name to. lol
4x 140mm NZXT FN-140RB Rifle Fan (push/pull on 140 rad and front intake/rear exhaust)
4x 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15s (push/pull on 240 Rad) (only have 2 of these installed in the pic, but will put the other 2 in tonight)

Let me know what you think! Cheers :-D


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> Hey all,
> First post on OCN! Wanted to get opinions, positive (and negative if constructive) feedback on my watercooling build. Just waiting on white single-braided cables for ATX and PCIE and a smaller res so it fits under my graphics card and I'll be finished.
> Take a look and let me know what you think. Note: This picture was taken during leak test, so the observant eye might note the 24 pin is disconnected and jumpered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Fractal Design Arc Midi
> /w modded window (not in picture)
> AsRock Extreme4 Gen3
> I5 2500K O/C @ 4.5ghz
> w/ EK Supreme-HF Acetal block
> Sapphire 7970 O/C @ 1125/1575
> w/ EK FC7970 Acetal block
> Antec 850w High Current Pro
> Crucial M4 128gb
> Seagate Baracuda 1TB 7200 rpm
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600
> EK D5 X-Res Top 140
> w/ Alphacool VPP655
> XSPC High Flex PVC Tubing - 3/8" ID (5/8"OD) - White
> Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Rad
> Black Ice SR 140 Rad
> Bitspower 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD Compression Fittings
> NZXT 24" sleaved LED - White
> LITE-ON Black Internal 12X Blu-ray
> Some 8x fan controller I can't remember the name to. lol
> 4x 140mm NZXT FN-140RB Rifle Fan (push/pull on 140 rad and front intake/rear exhaust)
> 4x 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15s (push/pull on 240 Rad) (only have 2 of these installed in the pic, but will put the other 2 in tonight)
> Let me know what you think! Cheers :-D


looks good i would have put the 120 rad on the floor and the pump on top the hdds... seeing as the cage is gonna vibrate you can localize the virbration to one spot. Other then that it looks really nice


----------



## kamikaze_

Welcome to the forums.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> Let me know what you think! Cheers :-D


Looks good. I'd likely change the flow direction though, for tubing reasons.

I'd change to Res/Pump > GPU > CPU > Top Rad > Front Rad > Res (bottom inlet)


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> Let me know what you think! Cheers :-D


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Looks good. I'd likely change the flow direction though, for tubing reasons.
> I'd change to Res/Pump > GPU > CPU > Top Rad > Front Rad > Res (bottom inlet)


That's the same order he has now...

I would change it to:

Res/Pump (bottom outlet) > GPU > Top Rad > CPU > Front Rad > Pump/Res

Looks great though! What kind of temps are you getting?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> That's the same order he has now...
> I would change it to:
> Res/Pump (bottom outlet) > GPU > Top Rad > CPU > Front Rad > Pump/Res
> Looks great though! What kind of temps are you getting?


Unless I'm looking at the pump wrong, he's going Res/Pump > front rad > top rad > CPU > GPU > Res

Now that I look at the picture again, the flow you mentioned is what I mean to type lol


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> First post on OCN! Wanted to get opinions, positive (and negative if constructive) feedback on my watercooling build. Just waiting on white single-braided cables for ATX and PCIE and a smaller res so it fits under my graphics card and I'll be finished.
> 
> Take a look and let me know what you think. Note: This picture was taken during leak test, so the observant eye might note the 24 pin is disconnected and jumpered.
> 
> Specs:
> Fractal Design Arc Midi
> /w modded window (not in picture)
> AsRock Extreme4 Gen3
> I5 2500K O/C @ 4.5ghz
> w/ EK Supreme-HF Acetal block
> Sapphire 7970 O/C @ 1125/1575
> w/ EK FC7970 Acetal block
> Antec 850w High Current Pro
> Crucial M4 128gb
> Seagate Baracuda 1TB 7200 rpm
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600
> EK D5 X-Res Top 140
> w/ Alphacool VPP655
> XSPC High Flex PVC Tubing - 3/8" ID (5/8"OD) - White
> Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Rad
> Black Ice SR 140 Rad
> Bitspower 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD Compression Fittings
> NZXT 24" sleaved LED - White
> LITE-ON Black Internal 12X Blu-ray
> Some 8x fan controller I can't remember the name to. lol
> 4x 140mm NZXT FN-140RB Rifle Fan (push/pull on 140 rad and front intake/rear exhaust)
> 4x 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15s (push/pull on 240 Rad) (only have 2 of these installed in the pic, but will put the other 2 in tonight)
> 
> Let me know what you think! Cheers :-D


Looks awesome! and welcome to the forums. I agree with the above on changing the route to clean up the tubing.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Unless I'm looking at the pump wrong, he's going Res/Pump > front rad > top rad > CPU > GPU > Res
> Now that I look at the picture again, the flow you mentioned is what I mean to type lol


He is, but it won't really change much aside from the temperature the water is in the reservoir. If he uses it for more than 5 minutes the water will all be the same temperature so it wouldn't really matter.

I figured


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> He is, but it won't really change much aside from the temperature the water is in the reservoir. If he uses it for more than 5 minutes the water will all be the same temperature so it wouldn't really matter.
> I figured


I'm not thinking from a temperature standpoint, just to remove 4" of tubing









Another bit could be removed by using the top inlet of the reservoir, but that would require a Y adapter for filling purposes.


----------



## svthomas




----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> I'm not thinking from a temperature standpoint, just to remove 4" of tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another bit could be removed by using the top inlet of the reservoir, but that would require a Y adapter for filling purposes.


Yeah, that's what I was going with as well. I also just like having rads in between each block, but that's me









He's replacing the reservoir/pump with a shorter one so he can fit it under the card


----------



## Hobo82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> looks good i would have put the 120 rad on the floor and the pump on top the hdds... seeing as the cage is gonna vibrate you can localize the virbration to one spot. Other then that it looks really nice


Thank you for the reply. It's a 140 rad near the front intake, won't fit on the floor and the pump/res definitely won't fit about the hdd cage. I've tried, trust me. lol. I'm not having any vibration problems at the moment.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> Looks good. I'd likely change the flow direction though, for tubing reasons.
> 
> I'd change to Res/Pump > GPU > CPU > Top Rad > Front Rad > Res (bottom inlet)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> That's the same order he has now...
> 
> I would change it to:
> 
> Res/Pump (bottom outlet) > GPU > Top Rad > CPU > Front Rad > Pump/Res
> 
> Looks great though! What kind of temps are you getting?


The first route would essentially be the same routing, just revered the flow direction. The routing Jesus recommended would probably clear up a little bit of tubing and I might actually consider it because there IS a lot of tube going on.

I initially tried to reverse the location of the inlet/outlets on the 240, but the mounting holes in the top don't line up. :-(

Temps are pretty good . . . I think. Haven't found much to compare it to online, but haven't looked very hard.

CPU idle = ~27-29C
CPU full load = ~50C (loaded with prime95)
GPU idle = ~30C
GPU full load = ~40C (loaded with Unigine)

Been gaming for the last 5 hours (SWTOR and BF3) and didn't see temps higher than 55C on CPU and 40C on GPU.

Thanks for all the replies! :-D


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> Thank you for the reply. It's a 140 rad near the front intake, won't fit on the floor and the pump/res definitely won't fit about the hdd cage. I've tried, trust me. lol. I'm not having any vibration problems at the moment.
> The first route would essentially be the same routing, just revered the flow direction. The routing Jesus recommended would probably clear up a little bit of tubing and I might actually consider it because there IS a lot of tube going on.
> I initially tried to reverse the location of the inlet/outlets on the 240, but the mounting holes in the top don't line up. :-(
> Temps are pretty good . . . I think. Haven't found much to compare it to online, but haven't looked very hard.
> CPU idle = ~27-29C
> CPU full load = ~50C (loaded with prime95)
> GPU idle = ~30C
> GPU full load = ~40C (loaded with Unigine)
> Been gaming for the last 5 hours (SWTOR and BF3) and didn't see temps higher than 55C on CPU and 40C on GPU.
> Thanks for all the replies! :-D


Those are pretty good temps


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svthomas*


Very nicely executed lanboy







. I do agree, try to find some where inside to tuck that top rad to make it uber clean looking. You can also consider getting or making a shroud to cover up everything on top and give a more stream line look. Looks fantastic non-the-less mate


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> Hey all,
> First post on OCN! Wanted to get opinions, positive (and negative if constructive) feedback on my watercooling build. Just waiting on white single-braided cables for ATX and PCIE and a smaller res so it fits under my graphics card and I'll be finished.
> Take a look and let me know what you think. Note: This picture was taken during leak test, so the observant eye might note the 24 pin is disconnected and jumpered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Fractal Design Arc Midi
> /w modded window (not in picture)
> AsRock Extreme4 Gen3
> I5 2500K O/C @ 4.5ghz
> w/ EK Supreme-HF Acetal block
> Sapphire 7970 O/C @ 1125/1575
> w/ EK FC7970 Acetal block
> Antec 850w High Current Pro
> Crucial M4 128gb
> Seagate Baracuda 1TB 7200 rpm
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600
> EK D5 X-Res Top 140
> w/ Alphacool VPP655
> XSPC High Flex PVC Tubing - 3/8" ID (5/8"OD) - White
> Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Rad
> Black Ice SR 140 Rad
> Bitspower 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD Compression Fittings
> NZXT 24" sleaved LED - White
> LITE-ON Black Internal 12X Blu-ray
> Some 8x fan controller I can't remember the name to. lol
> 4x 140mm NZXT FN-140RB Rifle Fan (push/pull on 140 rad and front intake/rear exhaust)
> 4x 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15s (push/pull on 240 Rad) (only have 2 of these installed in the pic, but will put the other 2 in tonight)
> Let me know what you think! Cheers :-D


Great job on the build. Looks clean and sharp, although you may want to change your loop order a bit; i.e put a rad between your gpu and cpu, instead of running rad to rad.







+rep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svthomas*


One of the best Lanboy builds I have seen. Normally they look sloppy, with lots of visible wires and such. Great execution. +rep


----------



## wermad

Nothing special than new tube and I removed the EK bridge, this gpu link setup is much smexier imho


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

it's way cheaper than the EK bridge too I bet.







and less likely to leak, and has less restriction.


----------



## derickwm

Updated the Gentle Typhoon availability guide in my sig if any of you watercoolers are looking to buy some more


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> it's way cheaper than the EK bridge too I bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and less likely to leak, and has less restriction.












I wanted to do something like this for a while but its impossible with large fittings, ek blocks with backplates, and three gpus. I thought about getting the BP sli fittings but they are kinda pricey. This is much more cost effective and I love that you can do this with 3/8x1/2 fittings and tube. I'll be using this size for any future build from now on


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> Here's my system:


Looks amazing







What are you using for cable pass throughs?


----------



## losttsol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *svthomas*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nicely executed lanboy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I do agree, try to find some where inside to tuck that top rad to make it uber clean looking. You can also consider getting or making a shroud to cover up everything on top and give a more stream line look. Looks fantastic non-the-less mate
Click to expand...

I actually like the look of the rad on top. I'm going against the grain as well on my next build and putting the rad on top. I've had them inside before, but it makes you have to have a much bigger case to do it right. I don't really want a huge case, just good cooling.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> Here's my system:


My god, that is an uber awesome build mate. Have you done MOTM? If you haven't, you should mate!


----------



## num1son

Final Update for this case:


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## derickwm

Selling a bunch of WC'ing equipment. Link in sig.


----------



## audioxbliss

My rig


----------



## derickwm

Y u no go with the blue ripjaws?









Looks awesome still! Get those cards on water


----------



## Ceadderman

audiox, you really should only be running 1 link on your XFire setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> UPS and Fedex are the worst handlers. Now...where's that Fedex delivery package tossing youtube vid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to send back my Hardware Labs SR1 560 radiator do to the shroud housing crushing the radiator fins, UPS sucks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cost me $34 dollars to ship it back to where I bought it one state away, we are only talking 5 pounds here!
Click to expand...

You should file a damage claim with UPS bro. At the very least they should be shipping it back for free.









I feel your pain though.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> audiox, you really should only be running 1 link on your XFire setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I don't hurt. I've tested two and one ribbon on on 4870s and 6950s


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> audiox, you really should only be running 1 link on your XFire setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I don't hurt. I've tested two and one ribbon on on 4870s and 6950s


^^^ this

I have seen results from some people/benches that even show a 3-4% increase in performance with two bridges.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> ^^^ this
> I have seen results from some people/benches that even show a 3-4% increase in performance with two bridges.


 really? thats lawl worthy


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> really? thats lawl worthy


Why would you get a performance increase using two bridges?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> Why would you get a performance increase using two bridges?


increases the available bandwidth between the two cards. it removes a bottleneck that is present in some setups.


----------



## wermad

Ribbons still have nothing on the sli hard bridges









damn tablet typos


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ribbons still have nothing on the sli hard bridges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> damn tablet typos


Agreed. I want a 2-slot hard SLI bridge


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ribbons still have nothing on the sli hard bridges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> damn tablet typos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. I want a 2-slot hard SLI bridge
Click to expand...

THIS
or
THIS

I would like a hard xfire bridge but I have a feeling these new 6970's I have will have a short life span with me.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> THIS
> or
> THIS
> I would like a hard xfire bridge but I have a feeling these new 6970's I have will have a short life span with me.


Nice! Looks like that second one in the right length! +rep

[edit] Anyone know if the 70mm length of the Intel bridge, is the same as the 63.5mm spacing on others?


----------



## Hobo82

***UPDATE*** to post 16942

Reworked some tubing for sleeker look thanks to recommendations by TheJesus and Angrybutcher (thanks again guys!!!), installed my new res and placed it in a more convenient location. Also, wanted to post a picture with the side panel on. Let me know what you think. :-D


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> ***UPDATE*** to post 16942
> 
> Reworked some tubing for sleeker look thanks to recommendations by TheJesus and Angrybutcher (thanks again guys!!!), installed my new res and placed it in a more convenient location. Also, wanted to post a picture with the side panel on. Let me know what you think. :-D


Looks much better







+Rep


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> ***UPDATE*** to post 16942
> Reworked some tubing for sleeker look thanks to recommendations by TheJesus and Angrybutcher (thanks again guys!!!), installed my new res and placed it in a more convenient location. Also, wanted to post a picture with the side panel on. Let me know what you think. :-D


Looks good but y u no post moar?


----------



## Hobo82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> Looks good but y u no post moar?


I just joined yesterday! lol. And thank you! :-D

I do plan on posting overclock and temp benchmarks when I get around to doing it. Too busy enjoying gaming on it now. lol


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> Looks good but y u no post moar?
> 
> 
> 
> I just joined yesterday! lol. And thank you! :-D
> 
> I do plan on posting overclock and temp benchmarks when I get around to doing it. Too busy enjoying gaming on it now. lol
Click to expand...

MOAR pics


----------



## Hobo82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> MOAR pics tongue.gif


OH!







Well yeah, I can post more. Have to actually find my camera though to do it any justice. phone just not cutting it. haha


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobo82*
> 
> I just joined yesterday! lol. And thank you! :-D
> I do plan on posting overclock and temp benchmarks when I get around to doing it. Too busy enjoying gaming on it now. lol


POAST MOAR. Hehe. And yes more pictures


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> THIS
> or
> THIS
> I would like a hard xfire bridge but I have a feeling these new 6970's I have will have a short life span with me.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! Looks like that second one in the right length! +rep
> 
> [edit] Anyone know if the 70mm length of the Intel bridge, is the same as the 63.5mm spacing on others?
Click to expand...

Won't even work on XFire. The connectors are too short in width if this is what you're wanting to do with one. I've got both NVidia connectors and grabbed the wrong connector once and didn't notice it until I tried connecting it to my card.







Oops.

~Ceadder


----------



## PARTON

I'm in here! first WC build btw.

I only have the six pin sleeved atm. I'll sleeve them all but I'm slow. It'll probably be a month, since I'll do them one at a time.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PARTON*
> 
> I'm in here! first WC build btw.
> I only have the six pin sleeved atm. I'll sleeve them all but I'm slow. It'll probably be a month, since I'll do them one at a time.


That looks great! It'll look even better once you sleeve all the cables. What color sleeving?


----------



## Mikrouwel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> That looks great! It'll look even better once you sleeve all the cables. What color sleeving?


Go for black imo


----------



## PARTON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> That looks great! It'll look even better once you sleeve all the cables. What color sleeving?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikrouwel*
> 
> Go for black imo


Black all the way. I like some of the more colorful thinkgs people have done, but not for this.


----------



## Ovrclck

I guess I can finally join the club. Preliminary testing so far, temps looking great, gpu doesn't break 36C running heaven. cpu lowest core is 51C running prime 95. I'm just waiting for my sleeved extensions to arrive than I can tidy up the cables.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Won't even work on XFire. The connectors are too short in width if this is what you're wanting to do with one. I've got both NVidia connectors and grabbed the wrong connector once and didn't notice it until I tried connecting it to my card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops.
> ~Ceadder


Not sure if you were talking to me or the guy I replied to. I'm wanting one for my 570s.


----------



## skyn3t

I just want to drop this here and ask how you guys like this Ninja Trowing Start Powder coated CPU Block, and if you guys want see more my Work Log is right Below

-=]░▒▓███Project - Black Hawk Down███▓▒░[=-


----------



## audioxbliss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Y u no go with the blue ripjaws?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome still! Get those cards on water


Those sticks are from my old AMD rig where they matched my Crosshair IV... I want to get some sticks in black and get a waterblock for my mosfets to get rid of the last bit of blue that stands out








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> audiox, you really should only be running 1 link on your XFire setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I did some extensive testing and found 0 difference between one link and two. Benchmarks had a variance of ~0.1% which isn't really significant. If I take one out now, I'll probably forget to put it in the box and lose it, so might as well keep it on


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Won't even work on XFire. The connectors are too short in width if this is what you're wanting to do with one. I've got both NVidia connectors and grabbed the wrong connector once and didn't notice it until I tried connecting it to my card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops.
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if you were talking to me or the guy I replied to. I'm wanting one for my 570s.
Click to expand...

Yeaahup, I had just woken up so I thought you were wanting a hard bridge for XFire not NVidia.







lol

Now that I'm more coherent I see that is not the case at all.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I just want to drop this here and ask how you guys like this Ninja Trowing Start Powder coated CPU Block, and if you guys want see more my Work Log is right Below
> -=]░▒▓███Project - Black Hawk Down███▓▒░[=-










so much win


----------



## wermad

I've heard horror stories of gpus going bust (ie died) when using an nvidia sli bridge on amd/ati setup and vice versa


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much win


My Rig going Live tonight or tomorrow , i just need to Run down to MC ( MicroCenter ) not MacDonald's, and get a new PSU tester mine just got bad so no trust on it.


----------



## mybadomen

Mind if i join the Club Kev?

Here are a few but i have more.I am very interested in this Club.For one reason is that Venom has kind of a strange setup having 1 Loop with 2 Reservoirs. and the 2nd Res. fills from the bottom which i had to do tons of research to finally do it and the results were great.

But yes would love to join the Club if you guys will have me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've heard horror stories of gpus going bust (ie died) when using an nvidia sli bridge on amd/ati setup and vice versa


You can use XFire link on NVidia, but not the other way round. The connection is too narrow.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> But yes would love to join the Club if you guys will have me.


I GUESS we could let you join... haha

...







those builds are so sick! You sure has hell have my MOTM vote.


----------



## mybadomen

I just really would like to join the club.Great things happen in here


----------



## nabarun

Modded the sidepanel

now i have a sidewindow


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Bouf0010

i love it when you post bundy but i always feel like your avatar is judging me lol


----------



## poly359

Hey, id like to join, I am hoping to get a better cooling system instead of my H60 for my 2600K, dont get me wronge the H60 is giving me great temps under full load and idle but you just cant beat setting up a proper loop XD
My Pack-A-Punch Rig has a H60 in it


----------



## TwentyCent

@ Bundy: that is one ugly block


----------



## Axis24




----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> i love it when you post bundy but i always feel like your avatar is judging me lol


I'm glad its not just me, I feel like he's laughing at me, lol


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> i love it when you post bundy but i always feel like your avatar is judging me lol


I always feel like Bundy is laughing at everything!









That block is ugly!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> Mind if i join the Club Kev?


haha, not at all, though you already were a member (as of 9/12/11 and #941 in the list).









I updated you with your second post though


----------



## kamikaze_

Damn, this guy knows more than you think.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I always feel like Bundy is laughing at everything!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That block is ugly!


Look where i am







So, i must laugh all the time


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look where i am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, i must laugh all the time


lol i wouldnt be laughing i would be chilling with the greatest smile evar


----------



## Ceadderman

My favorite Lea garb worn by lots of hot chicks. Bundy if you ain't at home with a smile on your mug, I'm gonna come over there and give ya a kick in your balls.









~Ceadder


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Lea garb worn by lots of hot chicks. Bundy if you ain't at home with a smile on your mug, I'm gonna come over there and give ya a kick in your balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


im gonna go over there and steal his identity... lol best job ever surrounded by that







god life would be sick


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Lea garb worn by lots of hot chicks. Bundy if you ain't at home with a smile on your mug, I'm gonna come over there and give ya a kick in your balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im gonna go over there and steal his identity... lol best job ever surrounded by that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> god life would be sick
Click to expand...

Yeah but once a month for about a week you would hate life


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite Lea garb worn by lots of hot chicks. Bundy if you ain't at home with a smile on your mug, I'm gonna come over there and give ya a kick in your balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im gonna go over there and steal his identity... lol best job ever surrounded by that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> god life would be sick
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah but once a month for about a week you would hate life
Click to expand...


----------



## iCrap

Id like to join the club (if i haven't already.. i cant remember..)
Here is my system at the moment... I used crappy lighting and had my camera set wrong so i am going to re-shoot it but you get the idea..

Still not done: have to put in my Raystorm LEDs, Maybe add UV lights, Finish my HDD cage (that one is temporary), maybe a window mod....

Also i still don't know if i should add my other 240 rad, and where to even put it. ....


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## IceColdBrewski

Check out the project in my Sig called BOREAS. Just started to update it again. It's coming along!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look where i am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, i must laugh all the time


It looks as if there is a line of other women in the background just waiting to join in on the fun! lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Damn, iCrap you ain't fittin that 240 inside your case bruh.









~Ceadder


----------



## AoHxBram

he aint fitting any more harddrives tho


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Damn, iCrap you ain't fittin that 240 inside your case bruh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


he could put it up top.. or have it on the floor with the hdds mounted ontop verticly... that would look sick


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Just posting an updated pic.











Keep those pictures coming guys and girls!


----------



## PARTON

Elvis lives!


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PARTON*
> 
> Elvis lives!


Good! That guy owes me ten bucks!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ovrclck

Here are some more pictures on my recent rebuild. Just waiting on some misc items


----------



## ProfeZZor X

What's the consensus on the Monsoon compression fittings from you guys/gals?

They look very attractive, but I'm on the fence right now since there aren't any bends or angles available for that line.


----------



## Schmuckley

:







:

I get better temps









http://www.overclock.net/t/406256/the-official-bong-lovers-club-56k-fail/0_20


----------



## 161029

Did anybody see the Swiftech MCP35X2 review Martin did?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> What's the consensus on the Monsoon compression fittings from you guys/gals?
> 
> They look very attractive, but I'm on the fence right now since there aren't any bends or angles available for that line.


I like em. But they're were a little on the spendy side. They were $48 for 6 fittings and wrench. Now they're $39 for six. So they're coming down in price at PPCs'. If I weren't already invested in my EK fittings I would probably do the Monsoons.









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like em. But they're were a little on the spendy side. They were $48 for 6 fittings and wrench. Now they're $39 for six. So they're coming down in price at PPCs'. If I weren't already invested in my EK fittings I would probably do the Monsoons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sounds encouraging to hear that some people actually like them, but I guess I still can't get past the fact that they don't have any bends in their arsenal. I'd hate to mix and match brands, but I guess when the time comes to actually start building the water cooling portion of my project, I'll weigh in the pros and cons.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Did anybody see the Swiftech MCP35X2 review Martin did?


Yes and I so want to add another mcp35X because of that


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like em. But they're were a little on the spendy side. They were $48 for 6 fittings and wrench. Now they're $39 for six. So they're coming down in price at PPCs'. If I weren't already invested in my EK fittings I would probably do the Monsoons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds encouraging to hear that some people actually like them, but I guess I still can't get past the fact that they don't have any bends in their arsenal. I'd hate to mix and match brands, but I guess when the time comes to actually start building the water cooling portion of my project, I'll weigh in the pros and cons.
Click to expand...

EK didn't have any bends either. So I had to go with Enzotech 45s' and to be honest, there really isn't much of a noticeable difference. They have a cool Biohazard logo on them which I can live with. The matte Black look of them actually makes the EK Black Nickels stand out much more imho.


















~Ceadder


----------



## Los Hog

Wow Ceadder that looks nice


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Wow Ceadder that looks nice


Thanks LH. Not even close to completing the loop yet. Still need three 90s'(two to connect my FP/Res to my Pump/Res), Radiator, 2nd Pump, and odds and ends fittings as well as three 20x120s'. But I am getting there. The person I'm working for is being put through the wringer by the county over permits regarding her new house. Soon as I can get back to work, I'm gonna be sockin funds away like a drunk socks away gallon jugs of Vodka.









In the meantime, I'm doin anything I can to keep food on the table.









~Ceadder


----------



## Asustweaker

New custom water cooling component cabinet, rear flush mount radiator, and integrated, hidden fillport. Lots of pics

*Whole cabinet pic, window closed*


*From the inside, notice the 5 way block with drain port at the lowest point of the entire system*


*Face window down*


*Rear radiator, flush mounted*


*2 rotary 90's into rear rad.*


*Fillport from the top, cover off*


*Fillport from the inside, with a temp. sensor in the 3 way manifold.*


*Fillport covered*


*pic of system*


Thanx for looking, what do you think??
Any suggestions always welcome


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> New custom water cooling component cabinet, rear flush mount radiator, and integrated, hidden fillport. Lots of pics
> *Whole cabinet pic, window closed*
> 
> Thanx for looking, what do you think??
> Any suggestions always welcome


Cable management, and some sharpie magic on those scratches and your rig will look Epic.

Edit: Heck I still love it! Quick question what is that block on your gpu's? I need a good block for my 560Ti Hawk.


----------



## Asustweaker

@ hak: LOL, i know the scratches are killing me slowly . I did JUST finish it.

I have both versions of the swiftech universals. MCW60, and MCW80. I would recommend the mcw80 only if you have a strong pump. It is very restrictive. They did release the 82 version, it is identical to the 80, but has channels cut into the top side of the block. I actually used a dremel and a flat tip stone to mod both of my swiftech blocks. I did the XT, and the MCW80. Improved flow immensely.

EDIT:The temp. difference is almost exactly 10c under the load of folding. Idle is almost exactly the same temp.


----------



## Jollyriffic

c690 ii advanced with h100 cooling

fans on the top 140mm


120mm fans on the bottom


my temps at *idle* before installing were at 43c
after install
bumped my x6 1090T from 3.2 to 3.6
cpu at 100% for 1 day 1hr and 23mins, temps are at 34c solid.

over all, well worth the cash!


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> @ hak: LOL, i know the scratches are killing me slowly . I did JUST finish it.
> I have both versions of the swiftech universals. MCW60, and MCW80. I would recommend the mcw80 only if you have a strong pump. It is very restrictive. They did release the 82 version, it is identical to the 80, but has channels cut into the top side of the block. I actually used a dremel and a flat tip stone to mod both of my swiftech blocks. I did the XT, and the MCW80. Improved flow immensely.
> EDIT:The temp. difference is almost exactly 10c under the load of folding. Idle is almost exactly the same temp.


I'm Using a Rez/Pump. Would you recommend the MCW82 then? If the Pump blows in the rez Im shoot myself.







If I took a pic of my PC and how my rad is being cooled you would die laughing that's how low I am on cash. Owning a AMD also explains it









My 932 is scratched up like crazy! i'm going to repaint it. When I post my RIG to apply for my way in this awesome club I wanna make my rig look SICK! (OR at least try)


----------



## Asustweaker

nice, a little cable management, like me








On another note, you could go quite a bit higher with that thuban.

Post a cpu-z pic


----------



## Jollyriffic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> nice, a little cable management, like me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, you could go quite a bit higher with that thuban.
> Post a cpu-z pic


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2226252

if you look at my motherboard you will see why i cant OC it. biostar A870U3
as Schmuckley said ( here )
Quote:


> a)you have a high-tdp cpu
> b) you have a..3 or 4 phase power motherboard
> c) you have unsinked vrms


i can get it to 3.7ghz but can not touch the nb


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Sounds encouraging to hear that some people actually like them, but I guess I still can't get past the fact that they don't have any bends in their arsenal. I'd hate to mix and match brands, but I guess when the time comes to actually start building the water cooling portion of my project, I'll weigh in the pros and cons.


They would work and look great with any brand elbows. I am absolutely getting those for my next build.


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> I'm Using a Rez/Pump. Would you recommend the MCW82 then? If the Pump blows in the rez Im shoot myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I took a pic of my PC and how my rad is being cooled you would die laughing that's how low I am on cash. Owning a AMD also explains it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 932 is scratched up like crazy! i'm going to repaint it. When I post my RIG to apply for my way in this awesome club I wanna make my rig look SICK! (OR at least try)


What ever works for cooling man. My first water rig was laughable too.

As for the water block, i would go for the 82 if you think the pump res. will handle it. Is it the XSPC 750 LPH?? If so it will probably be ok. If you wanna be on the careful side, go with the MCW60. It has a much higher flow rate, It's also cheaper.

Make a list of water blocks you are planning on using and what pump you have. I can likely let you know if it will be enough power
I have the 750 pump res. combo still in a different rig, and it wasn't that bad with 3 blocks.


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jollyriffic*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2226252
> if you look at my motherboard you will see why i cant OC it. biostar A870U3
> as Schmuckley said ( here )
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> a)you have a high-tdp cpu
> b) you have a..3 or 4 phase power motherboard
> c) you have unsinked vrms
> 
> 
> 
> i can get it to 3.7ghz but can not touch the nb
Click to expand...

Totally overlooked the Motherboard, that will definitely fry the VRM's man, sorry dude









I would think you'd get more performance out of just memory timings, and N.B. O.C., leaving the core clock very close to stock you may be ok. AMD is very memory timings and northbridge dependent.


----------



## ramrod84

Hey guys. Want to show off the new build. First time water cooling!!



Want to give a big thanks to everyone. Wouldn't of been able to complete this without y'all.


----------



## Jollyriffic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> Totally overlooked the Motherboard, that will definitely fry the VRM's man, sorry dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would think you'd get more performance out of just memory timings, and N.B. O.C., leaving the core clock very close to stock you may be ok. AMD is very memory timings and northbridge dependent.


can you hit me with the details of what to change and what numbers to set them at?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramrod84*
> 
> Hey guys. Want to show off the new build. First time water cooling!!
> 
> 20120128_205329.jpg 2695k .jpg file
> 
> Want to give a big thanks to everyone. Wouldn't of been able to complete this without y'all.


post the image with







tags instead of as an attachment, then I'll add you to the list


----------



## ramrod84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> post the image with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tags instead of as an attachment, then I'll add you to the list


There we go. Hope that fixes it. Have a few pics in my rig profile. Just figured out how to add it to signature


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jollyriffic*
> 
> can you hit me with the details of what to change and what numbers to set them at?


PM'ed


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramrod84*
> 
> There we go. Hope that fixes it. Have a few pics in my rig profile. Just figured out how to add it to signature


Your name, so much win. Followed by your build, buckets of win.


----------



## ramrod84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Your name, so much win. Followed by your build, buckets of win.


LoL thanks man!


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Your name, so much win. Followed by your build, buckets of win.


Friggin awesome, I agree


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> What ever works for cooling man. My first water rig was laughable too.
> As for the water block, i would go for the 82 if you think the pump res. will handle it. Is it the XSPC 750 LPH?? If so it will probably be ok. If you wanna be on the careful side, go with the MCW60. It has a much higher flow rate, It's also cheaper.
> Make a list of water blocks you are planning on using and what pump you have. I can likely let you know if it will be enough power
> I have the 750 pump res. combo still in a different rig, and it wasn't that bad with 3 blocks.


Spot on 750! I have a Raystorm, and 360 rad hooked up. I'm actual thinking of getting the XSPC Rasa VGA Block or the MCW82 Block. I think the pump should handle it. What you say?


----------



## tiborrr12

New ride! Just got to put something on the videocard VRM. It's not getting hot at all but still









*Hardware:*
Ci7 2600K @ 4.9GHz
ASUS P8P67 WS Revolution
4x8GB Patriot DDR3-1333 C9 (32GB total)
AMD FirePro V7900 2GB GDDR5
Seventeam V-Force 650W
1x Samsung F3 1GB HDD
1x Adata S510 120GB SSD
Cooler Master HAF-932 Advanced

*Water cooling:*
- EK-Supreme - Acetal
- EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition - Acetal
- EK-RAM CoolStream XTX360 + 3x Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-14 (1450rpm)
- Norprene 10/13mm cevi + EK-PSC 10mm + couple of EK angled fitting adaptors
- Laing D5 vario + EK-D5 X-TOP top
- EK-BAY SPIN Reservoir - Acetal




























Regards,
Niko


----------



## jackofhearts495

What do you do on your computer, Niko? 3D rendering? 32gb RAM with a V7900..


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> What do you do on your computer, Niko? 3D rendering? 32gb RAM with a V7900..


This is a rig I built for my father. He owns a construction bureau, mainly focused on designing construction cranes, runway cleaners and similiar. This latest build should run the latest casting iron line assembly they are designing without hiccups









http://www.ib-tivadar.si/en/en_index.html

It is something I also worked prior to joining EK Water Blocks and is something I will work in the future.









Regards,
Niko


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> This latest build should run the latest casting iron line assembly they are designing without hiccups


haha with those specs, I have a feeling it'll do just fine


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> This is a rig I built for my father. He owns a construction bureau, mainly focused on designing construction cranes, runway cleaners and similiar. This latest build should run the latest casting iron line assembly they are designing without hiccups


Can we pretend that I'm your brother/father/son/whatever so you can build me another rig as well


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Spot on 750! I have a Raystorm, and 360 rad hooked up. I'm actual thinking of getting the XSPC Rasa VGA Block or the MCW82 Block. I think the pump should handle it. What you say?


Yes the 750 will handle it, and i think that should be enough rad. as well.


----------



## carrotman

EK_tiborrr, what is norprene tubing? The matte black looks pretty good for tubes.


----------



## t-ramp

Sidewinder's has it.


----------



## carrotman

Thanks. So im guessing it is just industrial grade matte black tygon?


----------



## t-ramp

Well, it's a different material I suppose. It does look kind of neat.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

norprene is a softer tubing, it kinks easier. It insulates more though, and is great for sub ambient cooling.

It also look great


----------



## YowZ

How about this:

Just finished my water loop.

EK Supreme HF Acetal and Copper
EK XTX360 Rad
3 x Cooler Master Fans
EK 250 Advanced Res
Phobya 18W Pump
Primochill black anti kink coils
Clear 7/16 tubing
XSPC compression fittings

System specs are:
i7 860 @ 4GHz (191 x 21) VCore 1.3625
Corsair Vengeance Dual Channel Memory @ 1900MHz (Effective)
ASUS Maximus III Gene
EVGA GTX560Ti
Cooler Master 600W PSU
1TB HDD

Delta temps are around 7 degrees at idle and 34 running large in place in prime95 after 20 mins.

I'm stoked.

For some reason I carpeted the case floor...

Pics:




Full gallery here: Gallery


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> Yes the 750 will handle it, and i think that should be enough rad. as well.


Thanks for the Advise! I will try it with the Swiftech!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YowZ*
> 
> How about this:
> Just finished my water loop.
> EK Supreme HF Acetal and Copper
> EK XTX360 Rad
> 3 x Cooler Master Fans
> EK 250 Advanced Res
> Phobya 18W Pump
> Primochill black anti kink coils
> Clear 7/16 tubing
> XSPC compression fittings
> System specs are:
> i7 860 @ 4GHz (191 x 21) VCore 1.3625
> Corsair Vengeance Dual Channel Memory @ 1900MHz (Effective)
> ASUS Maximus III Gene
> EVGA GTX560Ti
> Cooler Master 600W PSU
> 1TB HDD
> Delta temps are around 7 degrees at idle and 34 running large in place in prime95 after 20 mins.
> I'm stoked.
> For some reason I carpeted the case floor...


If I could recommend something, I would change the top 2 fans and have another 360 rad with Push/Pull on low speed and get a block for that 560TI. Your Rig will be one of the sickest on this forum. But then again that's a good 200 bucks maybe more. Still awesome Rig!


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YowZ*
> 
> How about this:
> Just finished my water loop.
> EK Supreme HF Acetal and Copper
> EK XTX360 Rad
> 3 x Cooler Master Fans
> EK 250 Advanced Res
> Phobya 18W Pump
> Primochill black anti kink coils
> Clear 7/16 tubing
> XSPC compression fittings
> System specs are:
> i7 860 @ 4GHz (191 x 21) VCore 1.3625
> Corsair Vengeance Dual Channel Memory @ 1900MHz (Effective)
> ASUS Maximus III Gene
> EVGA GTX560Ti
> Cooler Master 600W PSU
> 1TB HDD
> Delta temps are around 7 degrees at idle and 34 running large in place in prime95 after 20 mins.
> I'm stoked.
> For some reason I carpeted the case floor...
> Pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full gallery here: Gallery


So, about the carpeting... That will build up static dude!!!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> So, about the carpeting... That will build up static dude!!!


Not up against the metal case it won't.


----------



## intelman

Finally got some decent pictures of my build and I haven't posted here yet. Thought I would show more then just the Phantom club


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated (again, haha)


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Thanks for the Advise! I will try it with the Swiftech!
> If I could recommend something, I would change the top 2 fans and have another 360 rad with Push/Pull on low speed and get a block for that 560TI. Your Rig will be one of the sickest on this forum. But then again that's a good 200 bucks maybe more. Still awesome Rig!


that 360 would cool his cpu and 560 no problem - i do like seeing rads inside the case though


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> that 360 would cool his cpu and 560 no problem - i do like seeing rads inside the case though


Qft.

I'm also a huge fan of keeping everything inside. If if don't fit, a dremel will help


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> that 360 would cool his cpu and 560 no problem - i do like seeing rads inside the case though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Qft.
> 
> I'm also a huge fan of keeping everything inside. If if don't fit, a dremel will help
Click to expand...

You probably shoulda kept your 932 tho. Imagine modding it so the PSU was under the 5.25 chassis the way your Corsair D case was modded and mounting a 240 at the bottom of the chassis. Hell there is enough room in these things you don't even have to mount it lengthwise to get it to work properly. with a little ~9" of room from lip to lip pretty much any PSU could fit there.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I'm impressed with my 690 and the water gear it can hold. I'm liking the Shinobi XL and the Cosmos ii. The later i wish it had a window door. But atm, I'm more interested in upgrading my gpus to something a bit newer and with more oomph.


----------



## iCrap

Can anyone recommend a universal water block for my non ref 6950?


----------



## kamikaze_

Swiftech MCW80


----------



## TwentyCent

MCW82 is supposed to be even better. Can't go wrong with the swiftech, but the EK and XSPC equivalents are apparently pretty good too.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Swiftech MCW80


The 80 is a bad block. Way too restrictive. Go with the 62 or the 82.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a universal water block for my non ref 6950?


http://coolingconfigurator.com/ If its not on there, there's probably not a block for it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> http://coolingconfigurator.com/ If its not on there, there's probably not a block for it.


He's looking for a universal block, not a full cover block







.


----------



## RushMore1205

does anyone know do the regualr waterblocks for the gtx560 fit the 448 cores?????

the reason im asking there are a couple of screws that are differnt but the stock coolers still work

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/5x0-gtx-series/ek-fc560-gtx-v2-acetal-en-nickel.html


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> does anyone know do the regualr waterblocks for the gtx560 fit the 448 cores?????
> the reason im asking there are a couple of screws that are differnt but the stock coolers still work
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/5x0-gtx-series/ek-fc560-gtx-v2-acetal-en-nickel.html


You are lucky that I researched this the other day.

If its the 560 Ti 448, it uses the GTX 480 block.


----------



## Ceadderman

Anyone know if the 6770 blocks fit the 5770 cards? I'm gonna have 2 XFX Reference design cooler cards and would like FC blocks for em. I know the 6770 is essentially the 5770 with some minor differences(i.e. 3D acceleration etc) but don't know if their blocks would be interchangeable. Has anyone tried it or have any knowledge of it working?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Hit up ek. I think it might be the non-reference 5770 design, but I'm not too sure bud









btw: which make and model do you have?


----------



## YowZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Thanks for the Advise! I will try it with the Swiftech!
> If I could recommend something, I would change the top 2 fans and have another 360 rad with Push/Pull on low speed and get a block for that 560TI. Your Rig will be one of the sickest on this forum. But then again that's a good 200 bucks maybe more. Still awesome Rig!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> that 360 would cool his cpu and 560 no problem - i do like seeing rads inside the case though


Thanks for the positive feedback, its my first build and first waterloop, been about 3 months in the making but i'm super haps.
RE the rads and the gpu block, my plan is to put a slim 240 beneath the top two fans, along with a another gtx560ti in sli, both with acetal ek water blocks, but I really need a new chair and monitor this month so it'll have to wait. plus my son's due date is the pay day after that so it may take some time xD.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hit up ek. I think it might be the non-reference 5770 design, but I'm not too sure bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw: which make and model do you have?


All our Cards are XFX Juniper XTs.









I looked up the 6770 but they didn't have anything listed in the configurator. And likewise for any of the 5770s' of previous manufacture. So I couldn't even do a visual comparison of the two blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## Denim-187

Here's my New pic with the 7970's installed.... i hope to go water soon.


----------



## Flip123

Here's mine!
Case is a Silverstone Raven 01
1st. build btw.
I don't realy know what the WC parts are, but the rad is a 3*120









Filling


Door on


Lights on an all that.


----------



## Astral Fly

I'll first note that all I have to work with here is a 2MP phone cam, so pics can be a bit blurry.

I have had a cpu-loop running for almost a year and recently decided to add the gpu, when I found a shop who had a block for cheap. I also added a SR1 120 since I have the room. The reservoir is also new. Before I had a Tecnofront Eagle, but I had to run my pump at half speed or air from the res would get pulled into the loop. The new revision of the EK Spin is working out really well.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jollyriffic*
> 
> c690 ii advanced with h100 cooling
> fans on the top 140mm
> 
> 120mm fans on the bottom
> 
> my temps at *idle* before installing were at 43c
> after install
> bumped my x6 1090T from 3.2 to 3.6
> cpu at 100% for 1 day 1hr and 23mins, temps are at 34c solid.
> over all, well worth the cash!


That is some serious barrel distortion.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YowZ*
> 
> Thanks for the positive feedback, its my first build and first waterloop, been about 3 months in the making but i'm super haps.
> RE the rads and the gpu block, my plan is to put a slim 240 beneath the top two fans, along with a another gtx560ti in sli, both with acetal ek water blocks, but I really need a new chair and monitor this month so it'll have to wait. plus my son's due date is the pay day after that so it may take some time xD.


congrats!! my suggestion if its your first... buy everything before hes born if you can lol priorities kinda change after that


----------



## skyn3t

I just want to drop this, it is corsair 800D hot swap mod i hope you guys like it and if you want see more my work log is right below
Project : Black Hawk Down - Custom Water Cooler [ Corsair 800D ]


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denim-187*
> 
> Here's my New pic with the 7970's installed.... i hope to go water soon.


nice setup


----------



## Jollyriffic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> That is some serious barrel distortion.


yeah i bought a very cheap wide lens for my zi8.
not sure how to correct that as im not really into photography


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jollyriffic*
> 
> yeah i bought a very cheap wide lens for my zi8.
> not sure how to correct that as im not really into photography


Ahh i see. You don't necessarily have to correct it, some people actually buy fisheye leneses. There are plugins for photoshop and lightroom that correct it, but they crop the image slightly.


----------



## Canis-X

Some updates:

* Motherboard waterblock
* SS Phase change cooler hooked up


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Some updates:
> * Motherboard waterblock]


Nice Phenom Rig! You don't see too many cranked up to 4.6GHz! Using phase like a boss!


----------



## PARTON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*


I like what's happening in the center there.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Nice Phenom Rig! You don't see too many cranked up to 4.6GHz! Using phase like a boss!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PARTON*
> 
> I like what's happening in the center there.


Thank you gents! Much appreciated!


----------



## Boyboyd

Really interesting setup.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Really interesting setup.


Interesting in a good way?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Some updates:
> * Motherboard waterblock
> * SS Phase change cooler hooked up


I'd like everyone to notice the motherboard waterblock is mentioned first...


----------



## carrotman

I dont think this is worth making a new thread for, so I guess i should put it here... I know neither product is out yet, but do any of you think an intel i7 3770K and nvidia gtx 780 could both be cooled by a single 180mm radiator sufficiently? I know at first this sounds preposterous, but keep in mind the chips will be using a 22nm/28nm process, so they, in theory, should run very cool. I think the total surface area of a 180mm rad is about 1.125x that of a 2x120mm rad. The rad will be positioned as an intake, so it is at least getting colder air from the outside of the case.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I'd like everyone to notice the motherboard waterblock is mentioned first...










Well, it is a water cooling club and picture gallery now isn't it? I have far more water cooled than I do phase cooled


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> I dont think this is worth making a new thread for, so I guess i should put it here... I know neither product is out yet, but do any of you think an intel i7 3770K and nvidia gtx 780 could both be cooled by a single 180mm radiator sufficiently? I know at first this sounds preposterous, but keep in mind the chips will be using a 22nm/28nm process, so they, in theory, should run very cool. I think the total surface area of a 180mm rad is about 1.125x that of a 2x120mm rad. The rad will be positioned as an intake, so it is at least getting colder air from the outside of the case.


I am going to go ahead and predict yes, it will be fine. However, there truly is no way to tell yet.


----------



## leecheefoto

Hello, this is my 800D build,

I'm going to switch to 1/2 ID x 3/4OD but have a feeling its going to kink from my mobo input and my output 6970 as it's already kinking with my current tubing = 3/8ID x 1/2OD.

Im fairly new to watercooling and learned some mistakes here and there. Tubing was small because I picked a MCP355 pump because the 655 were out of stock, now I learn from my mistake and will purchase the top upgrade for different size fittings.

so here the parts go:
Corsair 800D
XSPC slim density trip rad
XSPC slim density dual rad
Heatkiller 3.0 CPU Block
EK-FB ASUS Crosshair V - Acetal
Aquacomputer aquagrATIx for HD 6970 & 6950 (Cayman XT & PRO)
3 TFC - Triebwerk - Performance Radiator Fan 3000RPM 215CFM 65dBA
2 Noctua NF P12? (the 120mm ones)
Swiftech MCP 355 Water Pump
FrozenQ Fusion Reservoir Rev.6 UV Red 160mm

I might be selling all my 3/8ID Compression fittings as a package, they're all XSPC fittings I believe about 15 of them, and 1 Koolance 90Degree fitting. Pleaase PM me if you'd like them when I do upgrade to bigger ones.

Picture is still rough, the tubing is UV Pink but its actually peachy colour







And you can't see the helix in the res in this image as the exposure was set for a long time, and it's crooked


----------



## TheJesus

You could get some anti-kink coils if you don't hate how they look


----------



## m0t0k0

New to the forum so decided to post my Rig


----------



## xulos

Nice work man. Part list please


----------



## kamikaze_

After all this time he's still rocking a GTX 295. Still a monster card, overheats like hell fire, but he's got a water block on it, so it doesn't matter.


----------



## carrotman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> I am going to go ahead and predict yes, it will be fine. However, there truly is no way to tell yet.


Now that's what i wanted to hear.

Big plans (or should i say small) about 3 or 4 months from now.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

I have a question guys:

What is up with people lately thinking 3/8" tubing is tiny??? I keep seeing that comment from different people and I just don't understand. last I checked 3/8" tubing was normal sized and 1/2" was big. The outer diameter between 3/4" and 1/2" is noticable, but not enough to make 3/8"ID 1/2"OD "tiny"


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay is it just me or are there holes in m0t0k0's GPUs? Never seen that before.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay is it just me or are there holes in m0t0k0's GPUs? Never seen that before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


then you have never seen a dual PCB GTX 295


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astral Fly*


I love that case, too bad CM quit making it before I bought my Lian Li.


----------



## jellis142

I second with you. My dream case would be a black powder-coated 840







But they're either so rare or so expensive.


----------



## losttsol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m0t0k0*
> 
> New to the forum so decided to post my Rig


Tube going through the PCB fan cutouts. Never seen that one before. Definitely creative.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> You are lucky that I researched this the other day.
> If its the 560 Ti 448, it uses the GTX 480 block.


how is it possibel when the PCB is complettly differnt? are you sure about this? you are not talking about the clasfiied version of 560 right? those PCB are longer


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> how is it possibel when the PCB is complettly differnt? are you sure about this? you are not talking about the clasfiied version of 560 right? those PCB are longer


They re-used the GTX 480 PCB's. I'm 100% positive unless you have a non-reference (don't think it exists) 560 Ti 448. Check out http://www.coolingconfigurator.com and type in your product, it'll show what EK blocks work. I typed in 560 Ti 448 and it came up with 480 blocks and thus began the research









Quoted from: Visa Declined (http://www.overclock.net/t/1179612/560ti-448-classified-or-gtx-570-or#post_15861608)

480, 580, 560 Ti 448 (respectively)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> I have a question guys:
> What is up with people lately thinking 3/8" tubing is tiny??? I keep seeing that comment from different people and I just don't understand. last I checked 3/8" tubing was normal sized and 1/2" was big. The outer diameter between 3/4" and 1/2" is noticable, but not enough to make 3/8"ID 1/2"OD "tiny"


Qft.

3/8X1/2 is much more easier to work than 1/2x3/4 and there's plenty of clearance imho. I love it that I won't go back to 1/2x3/4.


----------



## m0t0k0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> Nice work man. Part list please


Thank you!

i7 920 D0 @ 3.5 stock volts
Original Classified
Referance GTX 295
OCZ Blade 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 PC3-16000C7 2000MHz Triple Channel Kit
2 x Samsung 128GB PB22-J

The system is old but the only this its lacking is DX11 for BF3
I have a new build in the pipe line but its going to be orientated around the case and the bits will come last. I'm waiting for ivy bridge anyway
Just need to teach myself how to use sketchup (unless there is anyone on these forums who would like to help me model my ideas for a modest sum of money?)


----------



## TheJesus

Have a NZXT Switch 810 Black on the way to swap from the Vulcan to


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> I have a question guys:
> What is up with people lately thinking 3/8" tubing is tiny??? I keep seeing that comment from different people and I just don't understand. last I checked 3/8" tubing was normal sized and 1/2" was big. The outer diameter between 3/4" and 1/2" is noticable, but not enough to make 3/8"ID 1/2"OD "tiny"
> 
> 
> 
> Qft.
> 
> *3/8X1/2 is much more easier to work than 1/2x3/4* and there's plenty of clearance imho. I love it that I won't go back to 1/2x3/4.
Click to expand...

Haha, wuss.









J/k though. Some people don't like the larger hose. I know there isn't much in the way of difference in cooling, but my OCD is a size queen. If it ain't the biggest then my OCD balks at it.









Although I've already run into the tubing being too large for the grommets in my Case. So either I get BP pass through fittings or I get cheap edge trim and trim the openings so they don't gash my tubing if I wish to mount a Radiator or another Res outside of the Case.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

temps are the same


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay is it just me or are there holes in m0t0k0's GPUs? Never seen that before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> then you have never seen a dual PCB GTX 295


Bahahahahah.

This made my day


----------



## wermad

470 and 480s have them as well. I think that classy 560 uses the same pcb as the 480 so it has em holes too


----------



## sockpirate

My current rig.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Interesting in a good way?


Yes. Lol


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leecheefoto*
> 
> Hello, this is my 800D build,
> I'm going to switch to 1/2 ID x 3/4OD but have a feeling its going to kink from my mobo input and my output 6970 as it's already kinking with my current tubing = 3/8ID x 1/2OD.
> Im fairly new to watercooling and learned some mistakes here and there. Tubing was small because I picked a MCP355 pump because the 655 were out of stock, now I learn from my mistake and will purchase the top upgrade for different size fittings.


You could also change the 45angled fitting for a 90 one, that would reduce the bend the tubing has to make.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> I have a question guys:
> What is up with people lately thinking 3/8" tubing is tiny??? I keep seeing that comment from different people and I just don't understand. last I checked 3/8" tubing was normal sized and 1/2" was big. The outer diameter between 3/4" and 1/2" is noticable, but not enough to make 3/8"ID 1/2"OD "tiny"
> 
> 
> 
> Qft.
> 
> *3/8X1/2 is much more easier to work than 1/2x3/4* and there's plenty of clearance imho. I love it that I won't go back to 1/2x3/4.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Haha, wuss.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J/k though. Some people don't like the larger hose. I know there isn't much in the way of difference in cooling, but my OCD is a size queen. If it ain't the biggest then my OCD balks at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I've already run into the tubing being too large for the grommets in my Case. So either I get BP pass through fittings or I get cheap edge trim and trim the openings so they don't gash my tubing if I wish to mount a Radiator or another Res outside of the Case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

You could use these



1 inch
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13011/ele-794/ModSmart_1_Inch_Cable_Tubing_Rubber_Pass_Thru_Grommet_-_4_Pack_-_GR-WPT-1-1.html

3/4 inch
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13012/ele-795/ModSmart_34_Inch_Cable_Tubing_Rubber_Pass_Thru_Grommet_-_4_Pack_-_GR-WPT-34-4.html


----------



## derickwm

Nice to see those new 7970s sockpirate









Also, I know the general rule for water cooling is at least 120mm of rad space per core. What kind of temps would I see if I cooled a cpu and a single gpu on a single 120mm rad? What would be required to keep good temps? Decent fans, high flow rate? Probably won't be doing a lot of OC'ing. It'll be a casual rig









Reason for even attempting this would be space saving as I am using Syrillian's bench again for this build.


----------



## PARTON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You could use these
> 
> 1 inch
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13011/ele-794/ModSmart_1_Inch_Cable_Tubing_Rubber_Pass_Thru_Grommet_-_4_Pack_-_GR-WPT-1-1.html
> 3/4 inch
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13012/ele-795/ModSmart_34_Inch_Cable_Tubing_Rubber_Pass_Thru_Grommet_-_4_Pack_-_GR-WPT-34-4.html


or new grommets in new holes


----------



## Canis-X

^Nice!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Yes. Lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## losttsol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PARTON*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You could use these
> 
> 1 inch
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13011/ele-794/ModSmart_1_Inch_Cable_Tubing_Rubber_Pass_Thru_Grommet_-_4_Pack_-_GR-WPT-1-1.html
> 3/4 inch
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13012/ele-795/ModSmart_34_Inch_Cable_Tubing_Rubber_Pass_Thru_Grommet_-_4_Pack_-_GR-WPT-34-4.html
> 
> 
> 
> or new grommets in new holes
Click to expand...

Thanks for McMaster-Carr link. I only needed 3 x 1 1/8" panel hole grommets. But 25 for $10 sounded good to me.

PS Everyone: I have 22 grommets for sale. $1 each.


----------



## PARTON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *losttsol*
> 
> Thanks for McMaster-Carr link. I only needed 3 x 1 1/8" panel hole grommets. But 25 for $10 sounded good to me.
> PS Everyone: I have 22 grommets for sale. $1 each.


lol yea I have 3/4 ID grommets for $1 each, too.


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Nice to see those new 7970s sockpirate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I know the general rule for water cooling is at least 120mm of rad space per core. What kind of temps would I see if I cooled a cpu and a single gpu on a single 120mm rad? What would be required to keep good temps? Decent fans, high flow rate? Probably won't be doing a lot of OC'ing. It'll be a casual rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reason for even attempting this would be space saving as I am using Syrillian's bench again for this build.


What is the gpu and cpu?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> What is the gpu and cpu?


Haven't decided between the top i5 or top i7 IB processor yet. As for GPU, my guess would be a mid range 7000 or 700 card. It'll be my "average" rig







Just need it for working with audio and playing League of Legends @2560x1600.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Haven't decided between the top i5 or top i7 IB processor yet. As for GPU, my guess would be a mid range 7000 or 700 card. It'll be my "average" rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need it for working with audio and playing League of Legends @2560x1600.


I would say at least an RX 240 mate.


----------



## kirb112

So I finished my rig a while back, and never got around to posting some pics. Thank you for all the help OCN! If I can help anyone at all, please let me know.






By the way, thanks Defunctronin for the tip on embedding pics.


----------



## funkygatorfeet1

This is a great thread. Thanks for sharing all.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kirb112*
> 
> So I finished my rig a while back, and never got around to posting some pics. Thank you for all the help OCN! If I can help anyone at all, please let me know.
> 
> IMG_0524.jpg 371k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_0525.jpg 352k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_0532.jpg 346k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_0533.jpg 337k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_0534.jpg 255k .jpg file


Looks very nice! +rep for you sir








Just FYI, you can embed your pictures in your post so that we don't have to download them. I suggest you do so that people can glance at that great job you did.







All you have to do is edit your post and use Image link in the posting tools.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> I would say at least an RX 240 mate.


That's what I was afraid of. Hmmm maybe I'll just do the CPU then and get a nice aftermarket/non reference gpu.


----------



## FuzzDad

Gotta love water cooling...12 hours of Prime95 on my rig (below)...that and it's a pretty quiet rig. What's even more interesting is I turned my pumps down from 12V to 7V and although it dropped my GPM to 1 GPM I got better cooling than 12V....guess pump heat's a big deal. Probably need to run a harder test but when this stuff works right it's a joy.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> I have a question guys:
> What is up with people lately thinking 3/8" tubing is tiny??? I keep seeing that comment from different people and I just don't understand. last I checked 3/8" tubing was normal sized and 1/2" was big. The outer diameter between 3/4" and 1/2" is noticable, but not enough to make 3/8"ID 1/2"OD "tiny"
> 
> 
> 
> Qft.
> 
> *3/8X1/2 is much more easier to work than 1/2x3/4* and there's plenty of clearance imho. I love it that I won't go back to 1/2x3/4.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Haha, wuss.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J/k though. Some people don't like the larger hose. I know there isn't much in the way of difference in cooling, but my OCD is a size queen. If it ain't the biggest then my OCD balks at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I've already run into the tubing being too large for the grommets in my Case. So either I get BP pass through fittings or I get cheap edge trim and trim the openings so they don't gash my tubing if I wish to mount a Radiator or another Res outside of the Case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You could use these
> 
> 
> 
> 1 inch
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13011/ele-794/ModSmart_1_Inch_Cable_Tubing_Rubber_Pass_Thru_Grommet_-_4_Pack_-_GR-WPT-1-1.html
> 
> 3/4 inch
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13012/ele-795/ModSmart_34_Inch_Cable_Tubing_Rubber_Pass_Thru_Grommet_-_4_Pack_-_GR-WPT-34-4.html
Click to expand...

I wouldn't mind, but the stock ones barely clear as it is. The openings are 11mm diameter and the grommets have maybe 2mm of wiggle room inside. The tubing by itself has about the same amount. ~2mm. So I'd rather not mess around if I go external for anything.









Thanks for the idea though. I'll keep it in mind.









Besides, $16 for a pair of these...



... is that bad a price to pay. Add a couple 90s' to the outside and straight comps to the inside and that's pretty sharp looking in my black case. I don't have to enlarge the holes either.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hydrored

Ok now I'd like to be added










I have a build log in my sig with a bunch of pics and info


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kirb112*
> 
> So I finished my rig a while back, and never got around to posting some pics. Thank you for all the help OCN! If I can help anyone at all, please let me know.
> 
> IMG_0524.jpg 371k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_0525.jpg 352k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_0532.jpg 346k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_0533.jpg 337k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_0534.jpg 255k .jpg file


I am a little confused by the use of the double return???

One from the water block to the pump, and another from the res.??


----------



## kirb112

...


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> Ok now I'd like to be added
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a build log in my sig with a bunch of pics and info


Very nice build. Its really clean and sharp looking, and the white really makes it pop. +rep


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> I am a little confused by the use of the double return???
> One from the water block to the pump, and another from the res.??


im gonna go with he has no res, just a simple T-line


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> I am a little confused by the use of the double return???
> One from the water block to the pump, and another from the res.??


It is called a T-line. It is what we all used to use before reservoirs became considered "essential"









basically, there is no res, that bit of tube off the T fitting acts as the res and has a plug at the end. It is slightly harder to bleed, but far cheaper and takes up less space.


----------



## losttsol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> I am a little confused by the use of the double return???
> One from the water block to the pump, and another from the res.??
> 
> 
> 
> im gonna go with he has no res, just a simple T-line
Click to expand...

T-Lines are the bomb. I had one in my first build. Takes a while to bleed, but definitely saves space.


----------



## DraXxus1549

Woot I finally get to join! Here are some pictures of the Rasa RS240 kit I installed.


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Very nice build. Its really clean and sharp looking, and the white really makes it pop. +rep


Thanks!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## losttsol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> Ok now I'd like to be added
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a build log in my sig with a bunch of pics and info
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice build. Its really clean and sharp looking, and the white really makes it pop. +rep
Click to expand...

No hard drives or power supply. How did you pull that off?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *losttsol*
> 
> No hard drives or power supply. How did you pull that off?


Hidden behind it I'm sure









(Notice the SATA cables on the board and the power has to come from somewhere, lol)


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *losttsol*
> 
> No hard drives or power supply. How did you pull that off?
> 
> 
> 
> Hidden behind it I'm sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Notice the SATA cables on the board and the power has to come from somewhere, lol)
Click to expand...

Yes







they are all behind


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they are all behind


Should post a pic showing the other side, or is it just a mass of tangled crap?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *losttsol*
> 
> No hard drives or power supply. How did you pull that off?


Case Lab cases are generally two compartments. They are building a traditional tower-type case I believe. Case Lab are great cases and are highly customizable.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> They re-used the GTX 480 PCB's. I'm 100% positive unless you have a non-reference (don't think it exists) 560 Ti 448. Check out http://www.coolingconfigurator.com and type in your product, it'll show what EK blocks work. I typed in 560 Ti 448 and it came up with 480 blocks and thus began the research
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quoted from: Visa Declined (http://www.overclock.net/t/1179612/560ti-448-classified-or-gtx-570-or#post_15861608)
> 480, 580, 560 Ti 448 (respectively)


non of those cards look like the 448 cores i have and other people have, every 448 core besides the classfied has the pcie power on the back of the cards

here is my set up, this does not get more reference then my cards,


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> non of those cards look like the 448 cores i have and other people have, every 448 core besides the classfied has the pcie power on the back of the cards
> here is my set up, this does not get more reference then my cards,


I don't know what to tell you, those are the first I've seen like that.

Just check coolingconfigurator.com for your model and if it doesn't have compatible blocks its likely no one makes them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Either no one makes them or EK no longer makes them. I looked up cards I know they made reference blocks for and the outcome was as though they never made blocks for it. Which I know to be patently untrue.









~Ceadder


----------



## kirb112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> I am a little confused by the use of the double return???
> One from the water block to the pump, and another from the res.??


It's a T-line.


----------



## jomama22

Here is my finish build....link to thread >>>> http://www.overclock.net/t/1187452/project-the-anti-wife-device-my-first-watercool-build

modded a haf 932 to fit the rads internally, rig details in sig


this was a lot of work for me lol great learning experience, will be buildin my second come march/april. (mountain mods ascension extended and 4 triple rads....cant wait!!!)


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> Here is my finish build....link to thread >>>> http://www.overclock.net/t/1187452/project-the-anti-wife-device-my-first-watercool-build
> modded a haf 932 to fit the rads internally, rig details in sig
> 
> this was a lot of work for me lol great learning experience, will be buildin my second come march/april. (mountain mods ascension extended and 4 triple rads....cant wait!!!)


Great job man, looks awesome. Gotta love how much stuff you can cram into a haf 932, lol. I also like the little mod you did to the HDD cage to slide that rad in there. +rep


----------



## jomama22

Thanks man! Yea cutting the hdd rack was such a pain in the ass lol a dremmel wont fit in at the right angle so it was a ton of filing. Yea u can cram a lot intobthisbthing bust u must plan it out because there a quiteva few tight spots. I was lucky that the hdd rack had holes in it becausebits the only way i could attach the pump and res inside. If u look i just have a diy bracket holding the pump with the res just sitting on the pump


----------



## OverClocker55

Does my h60 count?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Does my h60 count?


That build is just begging for a custom loop...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Does my h60 count?


of course


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> of course


Ok I want to get a loop. Its just being 14 is hard to get Monnies







I want to add a 240mm rad on top and mod my h60 for an extra rad


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> That build is just begging for a custom loop...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> of course


Yes I'm going to WC it soon







I'm just a noob and 14...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Ok I want to get a loop. Its just being 14 is hard to get Monnies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to add a 240mm rad on top and mod my h60 for an extra rad


Nice system for 14 bud.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Nice system for 14 bud.


Thanks Man







Had to save for awhile


----------



## brownieapple

well here is mine. just finished it last night.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> well here is mine. just finished it last night.
> All snipped


As much as I don't like the look of the LAN Boy
Thats actually very well done.

GW!


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> As much as I don't like the look of the LAN Boy
> Thats actually very well done.
> GW!


thanks. this is actually my first time watercooling.


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> well here is mine. just finished it last night.


Really like your work! Only thing: I think you should relocate/remove the badges


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> Really like your work! Only thing: I think you should relocate/remove the badges


thanks! i'm stoked it turned out so good! i know i need to sleeve the fan cables. that will come later and yeah i've been planning on relocating the badges to the rear of the case.


----------



## TheJesus

If anyone is interested, I have a 92MM rad, 120MM rad, and 5970 w/ EK Block for sale:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1210121/black-ice-gtx-xtreme-92mm-and-120mm-rads
http://www.overclock.net/t/1210117/5970-w-ek-fc-block-backplate

Hope to see some more people get into water cooling. These would be a great start


----------



## moa.

Made some changes to my loop, new pic


----------



## Nacious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> My current rig.


Hi just wondering what test bench is that?


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nacious*
> 
> Hi just wondering what test bench is that?


http://www.dimastech.it/EN/c/bench-test-table-easy-v25-milk-white/
They are awesome.

I may buy one.


----------



## Seventh Badger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> Made some changes to my loop, new pic


Me likey!


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kirb112*
> 
> So I finished my rig a while back, and never got around to posting some pics. Thank you for all the help OCN! If I can help anyone at all, please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, thanks Defunctronin for the tip on embedding pics.


What tubing is that, i like it.


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kirb112*
> 
> ...


I know about putting in a T.line but i was wondering if it came from a res?? SOOOOO... do you have a res.?


----------



## TheJesus

Updated my build pics with a much nicer camera, thumbnails are clickable, didn't want to have four million pics in here, lol.


----------



## Nacious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> http://www.dimastech.it/EN/c/bench-test-table-easy-v25-milk-white/
> They are awesome.
> I may buy one.


Second question, do you think you can put 3 XSPC-RX360 side by side, in the same vertical way he has one lined up?


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nacious*
> 
> Second question, do you think you can put 3 XSPC-RX360 side by side, in the same vertical way he has one lined up?


Yes you easily could.

Although you might wanna check out the other version it has another 360 cut out on the opposite side. When i bought mine i didnt have plans for water cooling, now i regret not going with the other 360 cut out ha ha . Here it is.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13490/cst-1125/Dimastech_Easy_Dual_BenchTest_Table_-_V25_-_Milk_White_BT064.html


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*


Looking good, but that piece of tubing below the bottom GPU looks kinked as hell...







haha


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> Yes you easily could.
> Although you might wanna check out the other version it has another 360 cut out on the opposite side. When i bought mine i didnt have plans for water cooling, now i regret not going with the other 360 cut out ha ha . Here it is.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13490/cst-1125/Dimastech_Easy_Dual_BenchTest_Table_-_V25_-_Milk_White_BT064.html


Ninja'd


----------



## SammichThyme

My first build ever!


----------



## discipline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> well here is mine. just finished it last night.
> *snip*


I detest lanboys but that is a crazy clean build man! Very well done!


----------



## coldcase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Does my h60 count?


Your GPU is feeling left out being stuck on air


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> Yes you easily could.
> Although you might wanna check out the other version it has another 360 cut out on the opposite side. When i bought mine i didnt have plans for water cooling, now i regret not going with the other 360 cut out ha ha . Here it is.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13490/cst-1125/Dimastech_Easy_Dual_BenchTest_Table_-_V25_-_Milk_White_BT064.html


Like mine?


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> 
> My first build ever!


Nice build man. Bet you're loving the 7970 cfx.
+rep for completing your first build, and watercooling it


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Like mine?


That is a different version, but yes.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> 
> My first build ever!












First builds are the greatest. I remember mine vividly


----------



## shajack

hey guys
just completed my rig,1st time using multioption res
cant post pics yet,still leak testing and such
question tho...got a whirlpool in my res,is that ok?running it for less than an hour now but i think the water is flowing with less restriction
thanks


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discipline*
> 
> I detest lanboys but that is a crazy clean build man! Very well done!


Haha thanks. Very few like this case. I just wanted the challenge of keeping the rads on the inside. And it was my first for watercooling and for a build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First builds are the greatest. I remember mine vividly


Hey thanks again for the raystorm


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shajack*
> 
> hey guys
> just completed my rig,1st time using multioption res
> cant post pics yet,still leak testing and such
> question tho...got a whirlpool in my res,is that ok?running it for less than an hour now but i think the water is flowing with less restriction
> thanks


The whirlpool effect is fine as long as it's not pulling air into the loop.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> Haha thanks. Very few like this case. I just wanted the challenge of keeping the rads on the inside. And it was my first for watercooling and for a build.
> Hey thanks again for the raystorm










Are you enjoying it?


----------



## Aleslammer

Building another RAD box, only thing you can't see are the two XSPC RX240, not sure how they are going to work with the Rexus 250mm, but advertised at 800 rpm fit with the RXs, so gave it a try. Going to be used on the full cover block on my P6T7 so don't need a lot of heat removal. Just another accessory for benching










2nd Post


----------



## YowZ

One of the things I love about this thread and watercooling in general is that the machines are always works of art. Very rare to see an ugly rig. Spectacular function driving stunning form. Fantastic


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> Building another RAD box, only thing you can't see are the two XSPC RX240, not sure how they are going to work with the Rexus 250mm, but advertised at 800 rpm fit with the RXs, so gave it a try. Going to be used on the full cover block on my P6T7 so don't need a lot of heat removal. Just another accessory for benching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd Post


Not sure but why not reverse the pump mount so it's inside the box being cooled by the fan(s).

Would look much cleaner no? :mellowmsi

~Ceadder


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you enjoying it?


oh yes. keeping it nice and cool! never going over 47-51*C under load.


----------



## hstanford1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> Building another RAD box, only thing you can't see are the two XSPC RX240, not sure how they are going to work with the Rexus 250mm, but advertised at 800 rpm fit with the RXs, so gave it a try. Going to be used on the full cover block on my P6T7 so don't need a lot of heat removal. Just another accessory for benching
> *snip*
> 2nd Post


I thought this was a subwoofer at first glance, nice work!


----------



## tx-jose

figure i would join









BEFORE!!!!!!!









After.. like just finished it yesterday.
Antech Kuhler 620

Also dont mind the tape...I fit a 120MM fan in place of the 135mm that comes with the PSU since the fan died and i replaced it with one that I had lyiing around


















a HAIR of space!!


----------



## iCrap

Nice but why downgrade?

Also,
So, i want to put a cheap drain port in my loop.... but i dunno how to do it.
This guy has T fittings http://www.overclock.net/t/1207481/for-sale-misc-watercooling-gear-round-2/0_90
Now that would work, but i need something on the other end of the tube to seal it... what would i have to get for that?


----------



## tx-jose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Nice but why downgrade?


giving rig to sister so i can build ivy bridge









wanted to make it manageable for her. she is a lil techie but is scare of the watercooling lol


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Nice but why downgrade?
> Also,
> So, i want to put a cheap drain port in my loop.... but i dunno how to do it.
> This guy has T fittings http://www.overclock.net/t/1207481/for-sale-misc-watercooling-gear-round-2/0_90
> Now that would work, but i need something on the other end of the tube to seal it... what would i have to get for that?


i have one of these for each drain in my setup: THIS

But for cheap, you could wedge just about anything in the end of the tubing to stop water getting out.


----------



## Ceadderman

For about $50(Includes shipping) you could do this...



I know that's a bit spendy, but if you already have a T line you could drop the BP Q connector and tubing and comp fittings can be whatever you want them to be. Only using Enzos' to show the thought process behind it.









Could always add a fillport/res top to the back of the case and tip the system on its fase long enough to swap out the plug with a drain tube, which would be a little cheaper than my idea.









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For about $50(Includes shipping) you could do this...
> 
> I know that's a bit spendy, but if you already have a T line you could drop the BP Q connector and tubing and comp fittings can be whatever you want them to be. Only using Enzos' to show the thought process behind it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could always add a fillport/res top to the back of the case and tip the system on its fase long enough to swap out the plug with a drain tube, which would be a little cheaper than my idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can't add a fillport. Not enough room.
I found a solution though, il just get that guys T line and i found an enzotech stop plug with a barb in it. That should work, its mostly going to be hidden anyways so looks arnt super important.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Olena Zwart

Quote:


> Building another RAD box, only thing you can't see are the two XSPC RX240, not sure how they are going to work with the Rexus 250mm, but advertised at 800 rpm fit with the RXs, so gave it a try. Going to be used on the full cover block on my P6T7 so don't need a lot of heat removal. Just another accessory for benching


@Aleslammer. Interesting this box of yours, but the way you describe it gives only some cryptic information. I would like to know why you build it like this and what are your goals.
Beside that I was wondered about your remark that your motherboard, the Asus P6T7 WS SuperComputer, produces almost no heat??? So what? With a special fine mb like that you undoubtedly can tell much more. And more pics please


----------



## ilocos boy




----------



## ilocos boy

here another pic of my rig what guy think..
p://www.overclock.net/image/id/1786843/width/600/height/400]







[/URL]


----------



## ilocos boy




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

ilocos boy - next time, go back and edit the new images into your post if no one else has posted anything, do not triple post.


----------



## ilocos boy




----------



## Ceadderman

Just got my Dual DDC top and decided to test my BMaverick brand pump...



Glad I had the foresight to buy someone's block off plate from their Koolance bay device. Makes it much cheaper and easier to test pumps one at a time.









ISSSSS ALLLLLLIIIIIIIIIIIIVEEEE!!!









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilocos boy*


Looks good, i suggest replacing the Raystorm LED's though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure he doesn't have any LEDs' installed in his Raystorm block.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

yeah they are there - take a close look at the first pic quoted - hard to see but you can see the cables sticking out the side


----------



## iCrap

Yea they are there, you can see the blue glow also.


----------



## shajack

i got a leak.
never touched the pump when i redid the setup but it's leaking tho not that much.
what could be the cause?the o-ring?


btw,here's the 'rig'. so need a new casing


still air in the tubing


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

where exactly is it leaking from? around the pump ring?


----------



## CjGemini

Can I get an update Kev


----------



## jackofhearts495

That build is insane, Gemini! I really, really love the res...


----------



## CjGemini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> That build is insane, Gemini! I really, really love the res...


Thank You


----------



## shajack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> where exactly is it leaking from? around the pump ring?


yup
any ideas?


----------



## Ceadderman

You might be able to find a new O-Ring for the unit or mebbe swiftech would send you one?









~Ceadder


----------



## shajack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You might be able to find a new O-Ring for the unit or mebbe swiftech would send you one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


gonna watch it for another 24 hours with everything on full blast before deciding anything,hoping for the best.
thanks:thumb:


----------



## wermad

Any good, decent looking, and *inexpensive* pump tops for the D5? I found this one, but it still retains the fuglyness of the stock pump top.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_775&products_id=29204

I'm running 3/8" id tube so I need a top with threads


----------



## ChrisTahoe

So, I've ordered a water-cooling loop for my processor, and by the middle of March I intend to add my GPU into the loop.

Here is my planned processor loop:


And here is the proposed loop with the GPU added:


The 120 radiator by the PSU will be quite large and set up for push/pull, but the 120 radiator by the exhaust can't be too terribly thick and still fit with a push/pull set up. Those are the radiators I can have without getting creative (aka case modding). Should this setup work?


----------



## pcnoob1

updated.


----------



## owikh84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any good, decent looking, and *inexpensive* pump tops for the D5? I found this one, but it still retains the fuglyness of the stock pump top.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_775&products_id=29204
> I'm running 3/8" id tube so I need a top with threads


i wouldn't recommend it coz the threads will wear off after some times. I end up buying EK Top v2. So far so good.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcnoob1*
> 
> updated.


you can't do that! only I can do that!


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I get an update Kev


Work of art you got there, CyberDruid at his best!!









Post some more pics.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any good, decent looking, and *inexpensive* pump tops for the D5? I found this one, but it still retains the fuglyness of the stock pump top.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_775&products_id=29204
> I'm running 3/8" id tube so I need a top with threads


I'm using this top and it's awesome. Not exactly "cheap" though. They have been out of stock at Jab-tech for a while too.
Bitspower

Frozen has them here:
Bitspower

But they are a bit more.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> i wouldn't recommend it coz the threads will wear off after some times. I end up buying EK Top v2. So far so good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> I'm using this top and it's awesome. Not exactly "cheap" though. They have been out of stock at Jab-tech for a while too.
> Bitspower
> Frozen has them here:
> Bitspower
> But they are a bit more.


Thanks guys, +1









I think I might go with the Koolance top as it comes with a bracket and most notably a plated sleeve/cover for the pump itself to give it some looks







You can also attach their tube reservoirs. Its only $5 more than the ek and the same cost as the BP.


----------



## CjGemini

A few more pics







for the people that don't want to check out my build log or comment


----------



## derickwm

That is a beautiful build gemini


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks guys, +1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I might go with the Koolance top as it comes with a bracket and most notably a plated sleeve/cover for the pump itself to give it some looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also attach their tube reservoirs. Its only $5 more than the ek and the same cost as the BP.


I have this pump top and I really like it.


----------



## JakR4bbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YowZ*


+1 for sexy loop.

+10 for GT-FOUR.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah if I were gonna go D5, that Koolance unit would be the top for me. The Res threading is why I went with the EK Dual DDC top, bracketry too.









~Ceadder


----------



## truckerguy

am I in?


----------



## Johnboy73625

I just finished my first watercooling setup in my Haf-X


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any good, decent looking, and *inexpensive* pump tops for the D5? I found this one, but it still retains the fuglyness of the stock pump top.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_775&products_id=29204
> I'm running 3/8" id tube so I need a top with threads


not sure how inexpensive you want to go, but this is the top I have on my MCP-655

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5modtop.html


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> am I in?http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1794540/width/523/height/700/flags/


So much electrical tape?


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> am I in?


wat


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> am I in?http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1794540/width/523/height/700/flags/
> 
> 
> 
> So much electrical tape?
Click to expand...

The SN should say it all.









Finished spraying the screws for the DDC...










Thinking of rubbing some white wax into or painting the logo, version and IN/Out markings. Any ideas? White wax would be easier since the excess can be rubbed off the acetal without damaging it.









~Ceadder


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilocos boy*


I want your mobo! It would fit my theme perfectly. I've wanted that board since it's release, but I lack the necessary funds


----------



## iCrap

Alright so i just got a Swiftech MCW80 in a trade... i know its more restrictive than the 82... but will it be a problem in a CPU and Single GPU loop? (Probably will add another GPU later though) Or should i look into getting the MCW82 instead?
Edit: A question / problem. I just tilted my PC over a bit on its side to get something from under the bottom, now i hear dripping sounds coming out of it.. i took off the sidepanel and had a look and no leaks but what am i hearing? sounds like its coming from inside one of the rads.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Alright so i just got a Swiftech MCW80 in a trade... i know its more restrictive than the 82... but will it be a problem in a CPU and Single GPU loop? (Probably will add another GPU later though) Or should i look into getting the MCW82 instead?


Wait, why are you getting an 80mm Rad for your system that doesn't have an 80mm mount? I'm lost. I know you can mod one in but...









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wait, why are you getting an 80mm Rad for your system that doesn't have an 80mm mount? I'm lost. I know you can mod one in but...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh wait wat. Im talking about the universal VGA waterblock. I thought it was called MCW80.
Actually yea it IS the VGA. i just googled MCW80.

What were you talking about?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wait, why are you getting an 80mm Rad for your system that doesn't have an 80mm mount? I'm lost. I know you can mod one in but...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh wait wat. Im talking about the universal VGA waterblock. I thought it was called MCW80.
> Actually yea it IS the VGA. i just googled MCW80.
> 
> What were you talking about?
Click to expand...









Sorry iC... my bad I just went from a Football conversation(s) to full on Tech conversation and left my brain behind.









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry iC... my bad I just went from a Football conversation(s) to full on Tech conversation and left my brain behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lol i see








Anyways, got an answer to my original question?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The SN should say it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished spraying the screws for the DDC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of rubbing some white wax into or painting the logo, version and IN/Out markings. Any ideas? White wax would be easier since the excess can be rubbed off the acetal without damaging it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Why not try using a whiteout pen, go's on like a permanent marker?


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Lol i see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, got an answer to my original question?


How about that? Swiftech Upgrade plan


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The SN should say it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished spraying the screws for the DDC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of rubbing some white wax into or painting the logo, version and IN/Out markings. Any ideas? White wax would be easier since the excess can be rubbed off the acetal without damaging it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not try using a whiteout pen, go's on like a permanent marker?
Click to expand...









Haven't thought of that. Have you used it before? What's the consistency like? Quick drying or reasonable to wipe off errors? Do you know if it's tough on acetal? I know the stuff is supposed to be okay for paper but this is a different product and I would like to avoid any trouble if I can.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Lol i see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, got an answer to my original question?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about that? Swiftech Upgrade plan
Click to expand...

That's a pretty good deal. Even the $10 option would be worthwhile and doesn't requite a receipt of purchase. Nice.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

First CPU Waterblock from mips-computer.de - Astral SQ - Pre-Version: (Retail Version is nickel plated and comes with a Backplate)



















Yes, you can use the HK 3.0 Mounting Mechanism, as i do on the first pic.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't thought of that. Have you used it before? What's the consistency like? Quick drying or reasonable to wipe off errors? Do you know if it's tough on acetal? I know the stuff is supposed to be okay for paper but this is a different product and I would like to avoid any trouble if I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a pretty good deal. Even the $10 option would be worthwhile and doesn't requite a receipt of purchase. Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The whiteout pens are more consistence, as far as easy removal your guess is as good as mine. Try it on a small area and see what happens, it depends on how porous acetal is.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> First CPU Waterblock from mips-computer.de - Astral SQ - Pre-Version: (Retail Version is nickel plated and comes with a Backplate)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you can use the HK 3.0 Mounting Mechanism, as i do on the first pic.


That Mips block looks cool. If I were on an Intel system that would be near the top of my list.

But tell me Bundy, is it me or are you using a MaxiPad to decouple the 2.o pump?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't thought of that. Have you used it before? What's the consistency like? Quick drying or reasonable to wipe off errors? Do you know if it's tough on acetal? I know the stuff is supposed to be okay for paper but this is a different product and I would like to avoid any trouble if I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a pretty good deal. Even the $10 option would be worthwhile and doesn't requite a receipt of purchase. Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The whiteout pens are more consistence, as far as easy removal your guess is as good as mine. Try it on a small area and see what happens, it depends on how porous acetal is.
Click to expand...

Yeah I could try it out on the blocking plate I have since it's acetal too. That'll keep the top clean while testing the whiteout I guess. If nothing else if it doesn't wipe off cleanly, the whiteout has uses around the typewriter, or editing copy. Thanks, if it works you'll be gettin Rep.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

Maxipad ?









Look at this now:




























The block performs better than the Heatkiller 3.0 CU and it´s fully made in Germany


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> it´s fully made in Germany


I love how that's a seal of quality.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> it´s fully made in Germany
> 
> 
> 
> I love how that's a seal of quality.
Click to expand...

As opposed to "Made in Britain" ?









Not that I have anything against my Brothers from across the Pond, but the UK is not known for Craftsmanship unless it's a Morgan... Or the Royal Marine Spitfire.









~Ceadder


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Maxipad ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at this now:
> The block performs better than the Heatkiller 3.0 CU and it´s fully made in Germany


With that finish it's just downright sexy!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> As opposed to "Made in Britain" ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I have anything against my Brothers from across the Pond, but the UK is not known for Craftsmanship unless it's a Morgan... Or the Royal Marine Spitfire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What the hell are you talking about? Cos the US is known for craftsmanship? LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL!!

We invent and design,this is what we do best and do it very well.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What the hell are you talking about? Cos the US is known for craftsmanship? LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL!!
> We invent and design,this is what we do best and do it very well.


lol do you watch Top Gear UK? They are not giving the rest of the world a very good impression of British manufacturing to say the least.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> lol do you watch Top Gear UK? They are not giving the rest of the world a very good impression of British manufacturing to say the least.


The British Leyland thing was a dark part of our history,Top Gear is the best thing on TV tho....i watch endless repeats on Dave.
Clarkson for PM!!

Now we ship manufacturing out to the third world places like Germany..

That was a joke.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now we ship manufacturing out to the third world places like Germany...


Better than China...


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The SN should say it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished spraying the screws for the DDC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of rubbing some white wax into or painting the logo, version and IN/Out markings. Any ideas? White wax would be easier since the excess can be rubbed off the acetal without damaging it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not try using a whiteout pen, go's on like a permanent marker?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't thought of that. Have you used it before? What's the consistency like? Quick drying or reasonable to wipe off errors? Do you know if it's tough on acetal? I know the stuff is supposed to be okay for paper but this is a different product and I would like to avoid any trouble if I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Lol i see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, got an answer to my original question?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How about that? Swiftech Upgrade plan
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's a pretty good deal. Even the $10 option would be worthwhile and doesn't requite a receipt of purchase. Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

A trick I use on my AR15's
Use what ever colored paint pen you want. Elmers makes fine point ones also.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> A trick I use on my AR15's
> Use what ever colored paint pen you want. Elmers makes fine point ones also.


Hell of a nice gun, very fun to shoot. Love the red that you added, looks very neat and clean.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Better than China...


I cant argue with that!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Maxipad ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at this now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The block performs better than the Heatkiller 3.0 CU and it´s fully made in Germany


It has my attention


----------



## Canis-X

I must admit, that is an awesome lookin block!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The SN should say it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished spraying the screws for the DDC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of rubbing some white wax into or painting the logo, version and IN/Out markings. Any ideas? White wax would be easier since the excess can be rubbed off the acetal without damaging it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not try using a whiteout pen, go's on like a permanent marker?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't thought of that. Have you used it before? What's the consistency like? Quick drying or reasonable to wipe off errors? Do you know if it's tough on acetal? I know the stuff is supposed to be okay for paper but this is a different product and I would like to avoid any trouble if I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Lol i see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, got an answer to my original question?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How about that? Swiftech Upgrade plan
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's a pretty good deal. Even the $10 option would be worthwhile and doesn't requite a receipt of purchase. Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A trick I use on my AR15's
> Use what ever colored paint pen you want. Elmers makes fine point ones also.
Click to expand...

What tip did you use, keeping in mind that my block is probably a few mm thinner on top than that Mag Well is from barrel to trigger guard. That is right baddass btw.

@B Negative...

On the UK Craftsmanship thingy... I was being facetious. There are a few things the UK made/makes that I love. Dr. Who, Top Gear is wicked fun even when they make jokes at our expense, Morgan an of course Spitfires. I do like other things too but you get the point.









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

That swiftech upgrade program is over


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Finally got my first piece of water cooling equipment today... My brand new hydro copper GTX 590!!!

Next on the menu will be my R4E water blocks, Monsoon (matte black) compression fittings, and clear tubing.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Finally got my first piece of water cooling equipment today... My brand new hydro copper GTX 590!!!
> Next on the menu will be my R4E water blocks, Monsoon (matte black) compression fittings, and clear tubing.


You have all those nice parts, go fill out your info in rig builder so we can begin judging you!


----------



## freitz

Updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> That swiftech upgrade program is over


Hmmm... I thought it said July 11th 2012? At least I'm reasonably sure it did.










~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Updated


you post your pics, Leave the updating to me


----------



## freitz

Ha, thats not what I meant.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Ha, thats not what I meant.


what did you mean? haha


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> what did you mean? haha


updated photos.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> what did you mean? haha
> 
> 
> 
> updated *"MY"* photos.
Click to expand...

Fixed.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*


I love the way your top fans light everything up. Looks awesome


----------



## wermad

Decided to go with the Swiftech threaded D5 stock pump top. I'm hearing some bad things about the Koolance top (and others) but ultimately, reviews show there's little to no gain. Its not a DDC that improves dramatically with an aftermarket top. The Swiftech top was only $10, so its not a bad deal at all:



Getting ready for my new build







. Most of the stuff is preowned but in excellent condition, saving me a crap load of money. This helped not break the piggy and blow away all my tax refund (well, my stake after wifey and kiddy spending







).


----------



## gliggo

Just finished my second set up


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Just finished my second set up


That Noctua in the front sticks out like a sore thumb









Looks good otherwise!

*EDIT:* By the way, what block are you using for your 6950? I'm looking for one for my XFX... after ordering the wrong one (non-reference 6970). It's a 6870 block, right?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> updated photos.


but how can you update your photos when those are the first you have posted in the thread?


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Just finished my second set up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That Noctua in the front sticks out like a sore thumb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good otherwise!
> 
> *EDIT:* By the way, what block are you using for your 6950? I'm looking for one for my XFX... after ordering the wrong one (non-reference 6970). It's a 6870 block, right?
Click to expand...

I know, I. Was sick of waiting for ap-15s to come back in Stock so just used my. Noctua for now.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## OverSightX

Another update to mine. Added a push pull config to my rad, changed all fans, and had to take the GPU out the loop for a bit (new 7970). Second GPU coming in tomorrow but not getting the two blocks for at least another month.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Ceadderman

Holy HELL Moley I gotta get some regular work. That's a lot of postings.









Anyone lookin for an independant system builder?









~Ceadder


----------



## Aventadoor

Here a couple picture off my PC as it is today until I get the Bay res(XPSC Dual bay with D5/MCP655 mount...
The tube from 360 radiator - CPU will be fixed with a 90 Degree fitting!
I will also get new colored tubing and new GPU blocks when the Swiftech Komodo arrives!
This is my first time so dont make a fuss


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Holy HELL Moley I gotta get some regular work. That's a lot of postings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone lookin for an independant system builder?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You know it is bad when you have more posts than Bundymania... and you don't even have a running loop yet do you?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Here a couple picture off my PC as it is today until I get the Bay res(XPSC Dual bay with D5/MCP655 mount...
> The tube from 360 radiator - CPU will be fixed with a 90 Degree fitting!
> I will also get new colored tubing and new GPU blocks when the Swiftech Komodo arrives!
> This is my first time so dont make a fuss


Be sure to post when you have it complete so I can add you to the list


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Decided to go with the Swiftech threaded D5 stock pump top. I'm hearing some bad things about the Koolance top (and others) but ultimately, reviews show there's little to no gain. Its not a DDC that improves dramatically with an aftermarket top. The Swiftech top was only $10, so its not a bad deal at all:
> 
> Getting ready for my new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Most of the stuff is preowned but in excellent condition, saving me a crap load of money. This helped not break the piggy and blow away all my tax refund (well, my stake after wifey and kiddy spending
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Look at you, already moved on to a DD Double Wide.. I didn't think that CM would really last! That Swiftech top is the way to go- as you mentioned, D5's don't see TOO much improvement, definitely not the way you would improve a DDC. My logic is usually DDC + top vs D5 stock in terms of price difference and performance out of the box.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


I made the list!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> You have all those nice parts, go fill out your info in rig builder so we can begin judging you!


I did already... Not sure how to include my rig build in my signature though







.


----------



## DevilDriver

I'm looking to get another GTX460 soon to sli, you all think my DD blackice GTX120 and swiftech 120x2 could handle another XSPC Rasa universal gpu block added to the loop cooling it?
Right now my current GTX460 loads at 39°c and cpu loads at 64°c synthetic load.


----------



## sate200

My old project!!!


The pieces of next up!!!


Ek bridge Triple for 6990´S!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> Ek bridge Triple for 6990´S!


wouldn't that be double not triple?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: My old project!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The pieces of next up!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ek bridge Triple for 6990´S!


Can't wait to see the finished results


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> That swiftech upgrade program is over


What i was saying b4, is you can easily alter the MCW80. If you have a dremel, you can match the 82's upper part of the block. It's the only difference. 

If you wanted to mod it, it's really simple with the right tools. a flat nosed 1/2" stone and a dremel.

Or you could just purchase the housing. http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82housing.aspx


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


dam i got a lot of posts


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Here a couple picture off my PC as it is today until I get the Bay res(XPSC Dual bay with D5/MCP655 mount...
> The tube from 360 radiator - CPU will be fixed with a 90 Degree fitting!
> I will also get new colored tubing and new GPU blocks when the Swiftech Komodo arrives!
> This is my first time so dont make a fuss


nice rig but its cheating to unplug your power cords to clean up the picture lol...

here is my updated rig:


----------



## Onions

i like that rad mount on the bottom... you could throw yor drives in there adn gg you win


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> i like that rad mount on the bottom... you could throw yor drives in there adn gg you win


i didnt even think about that... great idea!

i could make a mount to show off my SSDs

+ rep to you sir


----------



## Onions

glad i could help


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> nice rig but its cheating to unplug your power cords to clean up the picture lol...
> here is my updated rig:


How do you like that dragon rider? I'm wanting to get one my self. I've got a 120x2 and a 120 rad I'd like to fit in it.
Does it have enough room inside?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Holy HELL Moley I gotta get some regular work. That's a lot of postings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone lookin for an independant system builder?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know it is bad when you have more posts than Bundymania... and you don't even have a running loop yet do you?
Click to expand...

I had my H50 for about a year, but no...







... I don't have my loop complete yet. Still need a couple quarter/quarter connects, 2 more Comps a Male/Male fitting, Radiator and plug. Need some more new fans(20mm) as well. But I'm almost there. I decided the other day that I'm gonna get the universal bridge block as well so that upped the Comps count by 2 as well. But the UB is gonna probably wait til I get the Radiator in. Gonna go with the Fillport/Res on top of my Dual DDC top...



...just so I can complete my loop and get my CPU off this infernal air.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Decided to go with the Swiftech threaded D5 stock pump top. I'm hearing some bad things about the Koolance top (and others) but ultimately, reviews show there's little to no gain. Its not a DDC that improves dramatically with an aftermarket top. The Swiftech top was only $10, so its not a bad deal at all:
> Getting ready for my new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Most of the stuff is preowned but in excellent condition, saving me a crap load of money. This helped not break the piggy and blow away all my tax refund (well, my stake after wifey and kiddy spending
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> Look at you, already moved on to a DD Double Wide.. I didn't think that CM would really last! That Swiftech top is the way to go- as you mentioned, D5's don't see TOO much improvement, definitely not the way you would improve a DDC. My logic is usually DDC + top vs D5 stock in terms of price difference and performance out of the box.
Click to expand...

Also better for space concerns. Not that I have any of that at the moment.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Here a couple picture off my PC as it is today until I get the Bay res(XPSC Dual bay with D5/MCP655 mount...
> The tube from 360 radiator - CPU will be fixed with a 90 Degree fitting!
> I will also get new colored tubing and new GPU blocks when the Swiftech Komodo arrives!
> This is my first time so dont make a fuss
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice rig but its cheating to unplug your power cords to clean up the picture lol...
> 
> here is my updated rig:
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> i like that rad mount on the bottom... you could throw yor drives in there adn gg you win


I was thinkin the same thing when I saw that pic.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know it is bad when you have more posts than Bundymania... and you don't even have a running loop yet do you?


Qft, I'm on my....6th or 7th build...I'm kinda loosing track.

Ceadder, your build better crush the rebellion and bring the rule of the Empire throughout the galaxy!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Look at you, already moved on to a DD Double Wide.. I didn't think that CM would really last! That Swiftech top is the way to go- as you mentioned, D5's don't see TOO much improvement, definitely not the way you would improve a DDC. My logic is usually DDC + top vs D5 stock in terms of price difference and performance out of the box.
> I made the list!












I wanted to try something new in terms of gpu(s). I ended up buying a setup that was going to require a lot more cooling and power. The 690 as lovely as it is wasn't going to be able to handle this new upgrade. I got my tax refund and the missus allowed me some spending money in lieu of a new furniture set she got (this was long over due).

The DD is a bit challenging (like any build tbh) since space is now becoming limited with two sr1-360s and an incoming rx480. I kept the R4 and bought a few more and I'm going to run pull to conserve the space available in the DD. Its tall and wide, but depth is slightly shorter than my 690ii. Once the new psu went in, space was noe more limited. One thing that is another challenge is the case is constructed out of 3/8" (9.5mm) thick acrylic. Though most holes are countersunk, it doesn't work when you want to install grills on the outside and the added thickness requires longer screws and the sr1 rads use m4. Kinda strange they're both under the DD banner and you get 6-32 screws for most to case's mounting and installing hardware and their BI rads use m4 screws. Anyways, good ol' mcmastercarr.com to the rescue. I placed a small order for some new screws. Lastly, I fitted the res and it came out perfect using some of the mounting holes of the mb tray, but the D5 is just way too big and tall and so that is going. I ordered a ddc from the market and a new top. Like always, there's setbacks and delays with any of my builds. I'm hoping my gpu(s) arrive next week as I have some vacation time


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Another update to mine. Added a push pull config to my rad, changed all fans, and had to take the GPU out the loop for a bit (new 7970). Second GPU coming in tomorrow but not getting the two blocks for at least another month.


Not a big fan of red but I like it


----------



## superericla

Waiting for some new parts to come in for my loop but once they get here I'll post a pic.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Maxipad ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at this now:


at long last a block that is comparable in looks to the the stingers I may have found my new block


----------



## Eggy88

Some shots from my latest build:









Not 100% done yet, will be swapping out the MCR320 that stands vertical with another Hw-Labs GTX360, sleeving a lot of cables, routing the small cables that are visible from the front around to the back.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Some shots from my latest build:
> 
> Not 100% done yet, will be swapping out the MCR320 that stands vertical with another Hw-Labs GTX360, sleeving a lot of cables, routing the small cables that are visible from the front around to the back.


I love me some straight tubing! (vertical one...). Needs more! Oh and nice setup BTW


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


How do you see that?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> How do you see that?


you click on the post count next to the thread title in the forum thread listing


----------



## discipline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> nice rig but its cheating to unplug your power cords to clean up the picture lol...
> here is my updated rig:
> *snip*


Nice case!







It looks very familiar!


----------



## Buckley




----------



## Los Hog

Now that build turned out great Buckley look the color and lighting


----------



## jackofhearts495

That looks awesome Buckley!


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buckley*


That's a very nice build.


----------



## Born4TheSky




----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## OverSightX

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/735374/width/419/height/700/flags/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> Not a big fan of red but I like it


Thanks! Just got in my second gpu and plan to get the rest of the blocks/new rad/new pump/hoses for them within the next couple of months.


----------



## Canis-X

Looks great OversightX!!


----------



## lowfat

My new PVR/download box. CPU is an A6-3650 and it is clocked to 4.3GHz. Pulls a whopping 30W from the wall while idling. Under load it pulls ~ 100W.


----------



## wermad

A little teaser of what I'm up to









***Kevin, no need to update. I'll have final pics up in a while. I'm still a good while away from finishing







***


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A little teaser of what I'm up to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***Kevin, no need to update. I'll have final pics up in a while. I'm still a good while away from finishing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***


I wouldn't have added that one anyway since it is not complete.









You have so many posts, haha. I have had to trim down your entries 3-4 times already.


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Looks great OversightX!!


Thanks!


----------



## Buckley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> That looks awesome Buckley!


Thanks! This was my first WC build


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buckley*


Awesome!


----------



## Ceadderman

I give werm a week in that case before he gets bored of it and starts looking for another one. He hasn't been content with a case since he left the 932.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I give werm a week in that case before he gets bored of it and starts looking for another one. He hasn't been content with a case since he left the 932.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


im the same way with my dragon rider.

dont get me wrong, i love it but i have the WC bug and need a better case for watercooling.

while the dragon rider has plenty of room for 1 120mm and a 240mm rad anything beyond that seems counter-productive.

i have 2 240mm rads and 1 120mm rad and im still seeing temps of around 55-60 celsius.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> im the same way with my dragon rider.
> dont get me wrong, i love it but i have the WC bug and need a better case for watercooling.
> while the dragon rider has plenty of room for 1 120mm and a 240mm rad anything beyond that seems counter-productive.
> i have 2 240mm rads and 1 120mm rad and im still seeing temps of around 55-60 celsius.


NZXT Switch 810


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I give werm a week in that case before he gets bored of it and starts looking for another one. He hasn't been content with a case since he left the 932.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im the same way with my dragon rider.
> 
> dont get me wrong, i love it but i have the WC bug and need a better case for watercooling.
> 
> while the dragon rider has plenty of room for 1 120mm and a 240mm rad anything beyond that seems counter-productive.
> 
> i have 2 240mm rads and 1 120mm rad and im still seeing temps of around 55-60 celsius.
Click to expand...

You do know once you get to the point of over kill on your rads, you won't pick up much by adding more rads. Once you get to that point your blocks are holding you back, as they can only transfer so much heat. If you want cooler temps, you might want to look in to chillers.


----------



## wermad

I'm good with two SR1 360mms and one SR1 480mm







. Should be enough to cool three gtx 480s









I'm actually quite content with this case. Once I finish her, I"ll resist to switch cases


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm good with two SR1 360mms and one SR1 480mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Should be enough to cool three gtx 480s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...Once I finish her, I"ll resist *AND* switch cases


Truth!
















lulz

Hope to have some more stuff to show evabody by Friday next btw.









~Ceadder


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm good with two SR1 360mms and one SR1 480mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . *Should be enough to cool three gtx 480s*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm actually quite content with this case. Once I finish her, I"ll resist to switch cases


Now that is a reason to go overkill on rads.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Truth!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> Hope to have some more stuff to show evabody by next *millennium* btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Now that is a reason to go overkill on rads.


I picked up a members tri sli setup with blocks for a great price. Gave me the opportunity to go back to large rads and builds


----------



## DevilDriver

Night shot of my rig, sorry for the grainy pic. Iphone3g pic.

And day shot


----------



## Ceadderman

Et touche Brute?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Et touche Brute?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder




With push/pull I'm running out of real-state. The case is has a reletively mild depth to it, though its height and width really make up for it. Its like a MM U2UFO crossed with an Ascension in acrylic. Going to have to replace the new psu I just got


----------



## Angrybutcher

Well, mark one case off the list for an easy, cheap water cooler. The NZXT Tempest 210 looks good on paper, but will not work without modifications or maybe if you use 2 140 and 2 120 rads. The top of the case is designed with 140mm fans in mind and 120mm fans sit centered in those, negating any chance of a 120 fitting without modification, or dropping back to 4 screws rather than 8. In the front, a slim 35mm 240 will not slide between the HDD cage and the front chassis. Even if you easily drill out a few rivets to remove the hdd cage, the 5 1/4 bays are about 10mm still in the way. That could be easily fixed by cutting out a small rectangle, though.

Sad days


----------



## TheJesus

No one noticed my post earlier? NZXT Switch 810. A little pricey, but fits a 360/420 up top w/ push/pull, a 240 at the bottom w/ push/pull, and a 120/140 on the back.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## wermad

The BitFenix Shinobi XL can hold two 360s (one top and the other in the front) and a 240 at the bottom. This would have been my next case but I found and fell in love with my current case


----------



## sli_shroom

can i play? not my first...but my latest
































































good thing for me it isnt the ocn photography club


----------



## Angrybutcher

The case I'm looking for, isn't to replace my HAF-X. This is a case for my dedicated cruncher, so it needs to be "budget oriented". My only requirements are a mid-tower, internally supporting two 240mm rads and a standard ATX motherboard and be at or less than 20" tall









The only thing I can think of at this point that fits, is the Arc Midi, but I really had no intentions of using such a beautiful case for a rig that I don't "use" lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> The case I'm looking for, isn't to replace my HAF-X. This is a case for my dedicated cruncher, so it needs to be "budget oriented". My only requirements are a mid-tower, internally supporting two 240mm rads and a standard ATX motherboard and be at or less than 20" tall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I can think of at this point that fits, is the Arc Midi, but I really had no intentions of using such a beautiful case for a rig that I don't "use" lol


690ii advanced, 19.5" tall







. Coincidentally, i has a fairly new one for sale


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> can i play? not my first...but my latest
> good thing for me it isnt the ocn photography club


Really, really impressive build!









Your photography is better than most of the phone pics in here, shush now


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 690ii advanced, 19.5" tall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Coincidentally, i has a fairly new one for sale


Oh yeah! Why did I forget about that case?? It was one of my original choices when I debated on even building this machine months ago









To confirm, it's the RC-692-KKN2, right?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Et touche Brute?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With push/pull I'm running out of real-state. The case is has a reletively mild depth to it, though its height and width really make up for it. Its like a MM U2UFO crossed with an Ascension in acrylic. Going to have to replace the new psu I just got
Click to expand...

Get 20x120 Yates bruh. Shave 10mm per Radiator. With the two 360s' alone that gives you another 20mm of space. Or go pull only and shave 50mm.









I just need a Radiator now an I'll have my completed my first custom loop. I plan to go with 20mm Yates in pull only to cut down on the dust intake(just blew out my CPU cooler, holy hell -3c temp differential.







) and as you well know that's a lot of saved real estate in the door window by going with a Rad that is ~30mm thick and 20mm fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buckley*


Wow, super clean. Post that baby in the "rate my cables" thread. Cant believe you have no reps from that lol. Rep+


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Oh yeah! Why did I forget about that case?? It was one of my original choices when I debated on even building this machine months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To confirm, it's the RC-692-KKN2, right?


Yup. Lovely case. I had an RS120 on the rear, an RS240 at the top, and an RX240 at the bottom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get 20x120 Yates bruh. Shave 10mm per Radiator. With the two 360s' alone that gives you another 20mm of space. Or go pull only and shave 50mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just need a Radiator now an I'll have my completed my first custom loop. I plan to go with 20mm Yates in pull only to cut down on the dust intake(just blew out my CPU cooler, holy hell -3c temp differential.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and as you well know that's a lot of saved real estate in the door window by going with a Rad that is ~30mm thick and 20mm fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Those are weaker fans. It would be a little less than the R4s but performance would not be the same. The R4s push a ton of air at max speed and they can be under volted quite a bit compared to the medium yates. I just went with a slightly shorter psu for clearance. Plus, I want some led bling like my 690 build


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup. Lovely case. I had an RS120 on the rear, an RS240 at the top, and an RX240 at the bottom.


Thank you sir. I have the RS240 already (what I was trying to shove in the Tempest 210) and will likely go the same route you did, minus the 120, until I add a third 5870









....here, have some reps...


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buckley*


Now this is one of the cleanest looking builds I've seen in a while Buckley, very impressive to say the least! Is that Danger Den tubing?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Oh yeah! Why did I forget about that case?? It was one of my original choices when I debated on even building this machine months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To confirm, it's the RC-692-KKN2, right?
> 
> 
> 
> Yup. Lovely case. I had an RS120 on the rear, an RS240 at the top, and an RX240 at the bottom.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get 20x120 Yates bruh. Shave 10mm per Radiator. With the two 360s' alone that gives you another 20mm of space. Or go pull only and shave 50mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just need a Radiator now an I'll have my completed my first custom loop. I plan to go with 20mm Yates in pull only to cut down on the dust intake(just blew out my CPU cooler, holy hell -3c temp differential.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and as you well know that's a lot of saved real estate in the door window by going with a Rad that is ~30mm thick and 20mm fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Those are weaker fans. It would be a little less than the R4s but performance would not be the same. The R4s push a ton of air at max speed and they can be under volted quite a bit compared to the medium yates. I just went with a slightly shorter psu for clearance. Plus, I want some led bling like my 690 build
Click to expand...

Somehow I don't think that with the amount of Radiators you have that 20mm fans would hinder your cooling in any way. They make em in SH flavor as well. PPCs' just doesn't carry them and R4s' moderately outperform them bro.









Now all that said, I don't know what your FPI is per Rad, so if you have over 20 FPI then it's possible that the R4s' would squish the Yates but the Yates Static Pressure should make up for what it lacks and you know that they're just as nice to undervolt. I love my Yates, and if LEDs' are what you need just get a couple 15inch CCLs' and hide them behind your Radiators. That's what I'm gonna do to make up for the loss of light in my system. make em look like Lightsabers if I want them out in the open.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

sr1s are designed for fans 800-2000rpm. The R4s max rpm is 2000rpm. I'm sure you're loosing performance with the smaller surface area of a 120mmx20mm fan's blade, hence why the need to run them at 1800 (mediums). Which could make them noisier than the 25mm fans. I'm quite happy with the R4s and I love their build quality. I wish the led(s) were brighter but their performance really speaks for themselves. @ $6 a pop, its a tad pricey but no where near the other highend fan pricing. I guess I just got tired of dealing with crappy yates arriving bad or going bad quickly.

Anyways, the new psu will add a bit more clearance.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Speaking of new PSU, which did you use in your 690ii Wermad? Is there a max length I need to watch out for to avoid blocking the 240 from mounting on the bottom? I have a Seasonic 860 Platinum in that system currently. I don't believe it's long, but just want to make sure it won't be an issue.

[edit] Ugh, I found your build. Your PS is 1.5" shorter than mine, plus mine is modular. I don't think the 690ii will work


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Speaking of new PSU, which did you use in your 690ii Wermad? Is there a max length I need to watch out for to avoid blocking the 240 from mounting on the bottom? I have a Seasonic 860 Platinum in that system currently. I don't believe it's long, but just want to make sure it won't be an issue.


I initially had a Silverstone strider 1000w, and that was at the ragged edge in terms of space for the bottom rad (160mm length). I found a tiny Cooler Master GX750 psu that had a meager 140mm length which provided ample space for the bottom rad, though it was a fully fixed psu. The consensus among 690 water coolers is that a psu at 160mm or less will clear. Corsair HX620s have a lot of clearance and though there are a couple in the f/s section, I could find one at the time and ended up with the GX750. I rand a couple of 470s on the gx750 psu.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> sr1s are designed for fans 800-2000rpm. The R4s max rpm is 2000rpm. I'm sure you're loosing performance with the smaller surface area of a 120mmx20mm fan's blade, hence why the need to run them at 1800 (mediums). Which could make them noisier than the 25mm fans. I'm quite happy with the R4s and I love their build quality. I wish the led(s) were brighter but their performance really speaks for themselves. @ $6 a pop, its a tad pricey but no where near the other highend fan pricing. I guess I just got tired of dealing with crappy yates arriving bad or going bad quickly.
> 
> Anyways, the new psu will add a bit more clearance.


Well that's good. Clearance should always be at a premium.









I dunno why, but my Yates have never failed me once. The one I got for my Bro last year was kind of slowing down, but mostly cause he just let the dust build up. He blew it out last week and viola good as new. Mine are good. But of course I'm running a filtered system so that may have something to do with my fans not acting up an his doing so. An if they start makin noise I have 3n1 in the cabinet to lubricate them.







hehe

Which PSU are you getting anyway? I don't remember if you said or not. Alzheimer's is ackin up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I initially had a Silverstone strider 1000w, and that was at the ragged edge in terms of space for the bottom rad (160mm length). I found a tiny Cooler Master GX750 psu that had a meager 140mm length which provided ample space for the bottom rad, though it was a fully fixed psu. The consensus among 690 water coolers is that a psu at 160mm or less will clear. Corsair HX620s have a lot of clearance and though there are a couple in the f/s section, I could find one at the time and ended up with the GX750. I rand a couple of 470s on the gx750 psu.












I have no intentions of ditching this 860 Platinum. I want all the efficiency in the world to help save power as it's running 100% utilization 24/7.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buckley*


very very nice very clean build, probably the best cable managment ive ever seen


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that's good. Clearance should always be at a premium.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno why, but my Yates have never failed me once. The one I got for my Bro last year was kind of slowing down, but mostly cause he just let the dust build up. He blew it out last week and viola good as new. Mine are good. But of course I'm running a filtered system so that may have something to do with my fans not acting up an his doing so. An if they start makin noise I have 3n1 in the cabinet to lubricate them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe
> Which PSU are you getting anyway? I don't remember if you said or not. Alzheimer's is ackin up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I usually order an extra pair as I know there's the possibility of coa (crappy on arrival) or it will give out some time soon. I ordered my R4s through amazon and I love their cross-shipping rma and how fast it gets here. I tested the four that arrived today and I'm waiting on ten more. I probably spent ~$100 on 20 of them.

edit: got a bnib CM 1200w for $150 shipped








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no intentions of ditching this 860 Platinum. I want all the efficiency in the world to help save power as it's running 100% utilization 24/7.


Yes, unfortunately but there are a few tricks. If your psu is modular, this design tends to spread out the cables on the front of the psu, put the fans at the bottom of the case and add the rad on top. The gap created will allow you to route the cables. There's about 15-20mm of space in front of the bottom rad mounting holes. Just use the hex vented holes to secure the rad. Lastly, go with a 120mm fan in the front to avoid interference with the bottom rad/fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Is it me but did EVERYBODY just stop carrying the 20mm SHs'?

I looked on Sidewinders, Jab Tech, Frozen, PPC's, Xoxide... hell everywhere. They just aren't available for some reason. I know they made em but now...

*poof*









I won't mind if I can only get Mediums but I wanted a little head room on the Fan Controller for those particularly hot days where the AC just doesn't seem to keep up.









~Ceadder


----------



## quakermaas

In preparation for new motherboard, ram, CPU and graphic cards.

Radiator was originally mounted inside the case, I have now move it to the outside, giving me much more room for choice of graphic cards and making it much easier to do the upgrade.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/13080_30#post_14547176



And now (also new PSU fitted)


----------



## Buckley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Now this is one of the cleanest looking builds I've seen in a while Buckley, very impressive to say the least! Is that Danger Den tubing?


Thanks, it's Masterkleer 16/10 tubing


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I initially had a Silverstone strider 1000w, and that was at the ragged edge in terms of space for the bottom rad (160mm length). I found a tiny Cooler Master GX750 psu that had a meager 140mm length which provided ample space for the bottom rad, though it was a fully fixed psu. The consensus among 690 water coolers is that a psu at 160mm or less will clear. Corsair HX620s have a lot of clearance and though there are a couple in the f/s section, I could find one at the time and ended up with the GX750. I rand a couple of 470s on the gx750 psu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no intentions of ditching this 860 Platinum. I want all the efficiency in the world to help save power as it's running 100% utilization 24/7.
Click to expand...

What about a HAF 922 if the 690II doesn't work out? Mod the HDD cage and set it up like the 690II. I will say that a mid tower under 20 inches that can hold 2 240's is a tall order to fill.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Well, I'm trying to do this with little or no modding. I could mod this Tempest 210, but would rather avoid that, plus the 922's interior isn't painted. I know this isn't supposed to be a "show rig", but after having an all black case, I have no desire for the steel look again lol.

I'll need to go back and look, but I believe the Fractal Arc Midi does everything I want, out of the box.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is it me but did EVERYBODY just stop carrying the 20mm SHs'?
> 
> I looked on Sidewinders, Jab Tech, Frozen, PPC's, Xoxide... hell everywhere. They just aren't available for some reason. I know they made em but now...
> 
> *poof*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I won't mind if I can only get Mediums but I wanted a little head room on the Fan Controller for those particularly hot days where the AC just doesn't seem to keep up.


Well I guess I just answered my own question.











Check out the speeds and dB ratings. Not too schabby from a 20mm.









The Red highlighted is of ball bearing manufacture.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

need an opinion:

get the nzxt switch 810 and get a 360, keep the 2 240s and sell my 120mm rad plus the case,

or

keep the case, get a new PSU, some cold cathodes, more agility 3 SSDs?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> need an opinion:
> 
> get the nzxt switch 810 and get a 360, keep the 2 240s and sell my 120mm rad plus the case,
> 
> or
> 
> keep the case, get a new PSU, some cold cathodes, more agility 3 SSDs?


Go watercooling gear and save up your money to get the other things later. Which is what I shoulda done more or less.









~Ceadder


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buckley*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1673/cimg1890.png
> http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/42/cimg1844.png
> http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/862/cimg1934.png


How do you take pictures like that? Specifically, it almost looks like you are taking a picture of a miniature. All my photos look like, well.....crap. Just curious what settings you use.

Awesome build btw! I really like it!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Well, I'm trying to do this with little or no modding. I could mod this Tempest 210, but would rather avoid that, plus the 922's interior isn't painted. I know this isn't supposed to be a "show rig", but after having an all black case, I have no desire for the steel look again lol.
> I'll need to go back and look, but I believe the Fractal Arc Midi does everything I want, out of the box.


If you do a Midi build, please please _please_ take lots of pics. I freaking love those cases.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> How do you take pictures like that? Specifically, it almost looks like you are taking a picture of a miniature. All my photos look like, well.....crap. Just curious what settings you use.
> Awesome build btw! I really like it!


Probably a good camera, like a DSLR.


----------



## Buckley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> How do you take pictures like that? Specifically, it almost looks like you are taking a picture of a miniature. All my photos look like, well.....crap. Just curious what settings you use.
> Awesome build btw! I really like it!


I use my Casio Exilim ex-z3 3.2mp camera i bought nine years ago. lol. Just have to wait for the right lighting and hold the cam supestill.
Correct the white balance and no flash then take a lot of photos.


----------



## andygoyap

Finally got my side panel modded for my SSD:



































more pics here for the Side Panel Mod for SSD & Event:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1133437/tj11-single-loop-dominator-sandy-tri-sli-gtx-580-build/150#post_16441803


----------



## derickwm

That looks awesome andy


----------



## RushMore1205

^ your build never stops to amaze me, im going to be starting a tj07 build in a short time and all the ideas i had are in your build, great execution my man

*ANYWAY I THINK SOMEONE SHOULD START A FROZENQ RES OWNERS CLUB*

What do you guys think?????????????????/


----------



## derickwm

I'd join


----------



## RushMore1205

then start one please, i would love to but my real job takes up 80% of my life, so i wouild not be able to maintain

and i know there is a ton of peopel here on OCN who have his products, i mean i alone have 3 differnt res and getting two more shortly


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> then start one please, i would love to but my real job takes up 80% of my life, so i wouild not be able to maintain
> and i know there is a ton of peopel here on OCN who have his products, i mean i alone have 3 differnt res and getting two more shortly


I could start one even though I don't own one, lol. I would be able to maintain it as I spend 4 or 5 hours on here at night


----------



## derickwm

Bah I got it

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214130/ocn-frozenq-reservoir-owners-club#post_16441992

Now go join


----------



## Aventadoor

New pictures of my build.
Ordered new Pump (thats why I havent plugged in the cables







) and also ordered the 7970 EK backplates.
I also have some white NZXT extension cables, but only 8 pins as I did have GTX580 Sli before








So I need to get some 6 pins aswell...

Sry for bad picture quality, used my phone...


----------



## pcnoob1

updated.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated bro


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> ^ your build never stops to amaze me, im going to be starting a tj07 build in a short time and all the ideas i had are in your build, great execution my man
> 
> *ANYWAY I THINK SOMEONE SHOULD START A FROZENQ RES OWNERS CLUB*
> 
> What do you guys think?????????????????/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Bah I got it
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1214130/ocn-frozenq-reservoir-owners-club#post_16441992
> 
> Now go join


Might as well add me. Mine is bein sent UPS on Monday. I'll post the pic if necessary.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated.... ....bro?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcnoob1*
> 
> updated.


WAT?


----------



## asakurahao

can you tell me what are those blue lightnings in your case? the lightning looks awesome, not too bright not too dark


----------



## Tipless

Looks like individual LEDs


----------



## rockcoeur

I'd say they are NZXT Sleeved LEDs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated.... ....bro?


No no, not quite there yet KBMX, but a HUGE bit closer. Just sayin about the Frozen Q club that derrick might as well add me if he hadn't already.









So non, no update for me here yet.


















This pic makes that system look smaller than a tablet. I love the looks of it which is why it had to be shown again.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No no, not quite there yet KBMX, but a HUGE bit closer. Just sayin about the Frozen Q club that derrick might as well add me if he hadn't already.


My "... ...bro?" was in response to the person above who quoted me and edited the quote to add the "bro"

I was confused, haha


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> can you tell me what are those blue lightnings in your case? the lightning looks awesome, not too bright not too dark


Ah ha thanks for clarifying, I thought you were axin me if I was ready to be updated.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

thought id put it out here also

upgraded from HDDs to SSDs, its kind of cool no more hard drives in my rig

i needed to put the rig back together asap because my girl needs to do some homework on it, but next weekend im going to be tearing everything apart and sleeving things


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey RushMore, what did you use to fillin in the EK on that Acetal bridge? I've got the Acetal dual DDC block that I am looking to fill in. I have a couple ideas but before pullin tha trigger on anything I would like all the information I can get.









~Ceadder


----------



## HaPPyCaMPer75




----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey RushMore, what did you use to fillin in the EK on that Acetal bridge? I've got the Acetal dual DDC block that I am looking to fill in. I have a couple ideas but before pullin tha trigger on anything I would like all the information I can get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


here you go buddy, i have tried 3 different brands and this one is by far the best


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey RushMore, what did you use to fillin in the EK on that Acetal bridge? I've got the Acetal dual DDC block that I am looking to fill in. I have a couple ideas but before pullin tha trigger on anything I would like all the information I can get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I wanna know this too


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> here you go buddy, i have tried 3 different brands and this one is by far the best


loook


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> loook


Ah, should've guessed







Do they come in most colors? Where did you get your's?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Ah, should've guessed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do they come in most colors? Where did you get your's?


we have an art supply store called Michael's here, they had 12 different colors


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Ah, should've guessed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do they come in most colors? Where did you get your's?
> 
> 
> 
> we have an art supply store called Michael's here, they had 12 different colors
Click to expand...

I miss Micheal's. Used to go there all the time. It's where I got my Staedler's supplies all the time. Only I moved and now there isn't one close by. I'd have to drive to Portland or Vancouver. Is okay though cause they might have it at one of the local shops across the river.









Thanks Rush much appreciated. Is it easy to clean off should you make a mistake? Not that I would but on the offchance I did...


















~Ceadder


----------



## psychrage




----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> we have an art supply store called Michael's here, they had 12 different colors


Ahh, should've figured Michael's







I'll have to go over there for the build, thanks!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I miss Micheal's. Used to go there all the time. It's where I got my Staedler's supplies all the time. Only I moved and now there isn't one close by. I'd have to drive to Portland or Vancouver. Is okay though cause they might have it at one of the local shops across the river.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Rush much appreciated. Is it easy to clean off should you make a mistake? Not that I would but on the offchance I did...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


super easy, for example if you get stuff outside the holes, just take a credit card and scrape off, and if you dont want to have it in the holes(letter cut out) then just take some nail polish remover from your girlfriend and put it on a like the thing you clean your ears with and scrape off, works like a charm


----------



## Ceadderman

Roger dodger.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> super easy, for example if you get stuff outside the holes, just take a credit card and scrape off, and if you dont want to have it in the holes(letter cut out) then just take some nail polish remover from your girlfriend and put it on *a like the thing you clean your ears with* and scrape off, works like a charm


ummm...

a Q-tip? lol


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## solar0987

Added a 580 hydro copper finally lol.


----------



## Sorcha

Hi I'm new here but I'm not new to water cooling I've being water cooling since 2005 i think and I love it, it is so much fun, my computer is not as classy most of the computers on here but it gets the job done.







My plain with the computer has to over-clock it as much I can while not over heating me, doing all that with as little noise as passable, so you see i have to use water cooling as you can't do that with air cooling.

The processor is AMD Phenom II 1090T I being planing on over clocking it to 4Ghz at least but due to pump I am still at standard speeds, I'm not happy at all. I've had two others processors used and they where an AMD 2800+ and a Phenom 8450 triple core. My temps for the AMD Phenom II 1090T at idle is about 25c the not so good part at full load ranges from 71C to over heats its done that twice now. My water block is a Alphacool NexXxoS XP.

My mother board is MSI 980gxm-g65 is a little old now but i need a board that had on board VGA as i did not have enough money for a video card as well.

My soon to be had will be a radon 6770 I'm getting this one because you get the best performance for the price, I will be putting a Danger Dan i think its a Maze 4 GPU, I don't remember what it is but it still works and that is all that matter to me.

I got a North bridge water block Last year if i could get a mofet water block i might use it.

My pump is where my system lets it down its a Danger Dans CSP-MAG it is too slow, I'm going to replace it with 2 DCC 350 working together and if I want I can turn one off if i think its ok. There is so much I can do with these things it will be fun.

Ashley


----------



## Ceadderman

Try some cable management and see if that helps your load temps.









Also looks like you don't have enough airflow inside the case which could be causing your temps to increase overall and contribute to the temp of your CPU. But that's just my initial thought on the matter. Someone else might see this differently.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## alpha215

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Added a 580 hydro copper finally lol.


Cadillac logo


----------



## Bravo2010

Me wants to join the club, This is my first Intel build (was AMD for 6 years) , I took out the lower HD rack on my CM 690 II advanced, used the XSPC Rasa 750 RX240, bought some 2000 rmp fans, I had enough room in my case (which surprised me for Med sized) to do a push pull on the RAD.


----------



## Bravo2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try some cable management and see if that helps your load temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also looks like you don't have enough airflow inside the case which could be causing your temps to increase overall and contribute to the temp of your CPU. But that's just my initial thought on the matter. Someone else might see this differently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No I think you nailed it, Air flow is very important IMO, especially when Oc'ing. That guy is probably losing 10c+ for cooling performance just on air flow.
@ Sorcha you probably are an expert on water cooling, that setup looks very custom and not amateur. So like you said it gets the job done, But ya I have to agree cable managment is important. But you do have a sweet little powerhouse there. Congrats

ps I think I saw some rust, or was that bad lighting


----------



## Sorcha

the only temps that are bad are the ones that are being water cooled, my north bridge and other components are fine they are not over heating, yeah i need to replace my pump, which will be as soon as all the parts turn up maybe next week.









Anyway thank you for your concern.

Ashley


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bravo2010*
> 
> Me wants to join the club, This is my first Intel build (was AMD for 6 years) , I took out the lower HD rack on my CM 690 II advanced, used the XSPC Rasa 750 RX240, bought some 2000 rmp fans, I had enough room in my case (which surprised me for Med sized) to do a push pull on the RAD.


congrats, you are member 1155; hope that is Sandybridge you have in there


----------



## Sorcha

Actually I'm a girl!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcha*
> 
> Actually I'm a girl!


A woman on a computer enthusiast forum? OUTRAGE!

inb4 pics requests


----------



## kevingreenbmx

There are quite a few women on the staff, just sayin'


----------



## Ceadderman

An she watercools.









Need pruf!









~Ceadder


----------



## Sorcha

Whether i tie up my cables or not they are still going to be there in the way my case is old I got it in 20003 it was my first ATX case, i need a new case but because i do not have a job, I'm pushing it getting a new pump and a new video card.

most of the cases the cases I'm seen around here all of the cables come from behind the mother board I do understand your point, but what the point after tiding with cables ties they are still going to be ugly.

Ashley


----------



## Sorcha

you know i'm not a model or anything.

Ashley


----------



## Bravo2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> congrats, you are member 1155; hope that is Sandybridge you have in there


Thx

2600k under the hood for now, and ill check in on ivy when it arrives


----------



## Badness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haquocdung*
> 
> Cadillac logo


I miss the ducks on the cadillac logo.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcha*
> 
> Whether i tie up my cables or not they are still going to be there in the way my case is old I got it in 20003 it was my first ATX case, i need a new case but because i do not have a job, I'm pushing it getting a new pump and a new video card.
> 
> most of the cases the cases I'm seen around here all of the cables come from behind the mother board I do understand your point, but what the point after tiding with cables ties they are still going to be ugly.
> 
> Ashley


Doesn't have to be pretty. Just route them out of the path of the airflow. with your case I don't think it has to look like what we call the trailer queen. Towed from show to show without putting it on the road.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcha*
> 
> you know i'm not a model or anything.
> 
> Ashley


Neither are any of us.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Tits or gee tee eff oh


Not kewl bruh, not kewl.









~Ceadder


----------



## iama842

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Tits or gee tee eff oh


It only took 24 minutes


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iama842*
> 
> It only took 24 minutes


<- called it


----------



## Sorcha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Doesn't have to be pretty. Just route them out of the path of the airflow. with your case I don't think it has to look like what we call the trailer queen. Towed from show to show without putting it on the road.


If I was building it for some else I would have done that, but its mine I'm only going to take it apart at some point, i think you have just highlighted that I need a new case, it was a deference age then. and water cooling was mostly just starting I was going to make my own block 6 months later i got a Zalman water block and started building my loop, it was fun.

yeah cables I'll think about it, I'd would like to get a new case then my computer may be a little pretty because cables are ugly.

Ashley


----------



## The Muffin Man

@ Sorcha, is half of ure tubing just garden hose??? XD


----------



## Bit_reaper

Hi guys. I'm planing on getting some universal water blocks for my crossfired cards and need some help on how to connect the two. I started a thread about it but did not get a lot of responses so I though I throw the question this way.

The thread --> http://www.overclock.net/t/1212381/universal-gpu-block-for-crossfire-sli-opinions-needed#post_16414257

Anyway long story short. I would just have gotten the EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition and the bridge but the damn Bridge is out of stock









And I'm trying to keep down the cost so less is more.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bit_reaper*
> 
> Hi guys. I'm planing on getting some universal water blocks for my crossfired cards and need some help on how to connect the two. I started a thread about it but did not get a lot of responses so I though I throw the question this way.
> The thread --> http://www.overclock.net/t/1212381/universal-gpu-block-for-crossfire-sli-opinions-needed#post_16414257
> Anyway long story short. I would just have gotten the EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition and the bridge but the damn Bridge is out of stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'm trying to keep down the cost so less is more.


Go with a couple of universal blocks (your choice) and get a Swiftech bridge to link them:


----------



## Ceadderman

You know I'm not a big fan of the universal kits werm but...

Pair these up


with these...



And add some plexi covers to the top and underside, that wouldn't be too bad I don't think.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bit_reaper

@wermad
Yes that looks like a quite clean way of going it. There are few more worm drive connections than I would like but other then that is quite nice. +rep

@Ceadderman
Yes I like the Bridge Edition but as I stated in my post the correct bridge is unfortunately out of stock.

I don't think the vram/memory cooling will be an issue as I plan on re using the stock unisinks.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haquocdung*
> 
> Cadillac logo


Ya it came from the hat that came with my caddy








Thought it was a good idea to put it there since i named it "the lac" lol


----------



## Sorcha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> @ Sorcha, is half of ure tubing just garden hose??? XD


I would like to add that my garden hose is rated to 100psi

I like my garden hose I'll be using more of it in the future.

Ashley


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You know I'm not a big fan of the universal kits werm but...
> Pair these up
> 
> with these...
> 
> And add some plexi covers to the top and underside, that wouldn't be too bad I don't think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not a fan of universal blocks at all either but those are pretty decent looking


----------



## andygoyap

@asakurahao, i am using nzxt sleeved led kits blue color


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap*
> 
> @asakurahao, i am using nzxt sleeved led kits blue color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Nice case and build man [IMG alt="wink.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/wink.gif


----------



## Dradien

Quick little picture I took of my block. Part of my sound card got caught in the picture, so it's kind of annoying, but I like it (the picture).


IMG_0937.jpg by Dradien, on Flickr


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Not a fan of universal blocks at all either but those are pretty decent looking


I have those blocks,they are great!
I use Enzotech sink tho,rather than Alu...


----------



## Bravo2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcha*
> 
> Hi I'm new here but I'm not new to water cooling I've being water cooling since 2005 i think and I love it, it is so much fun, my computer is not as classy most of the computers on here but it gets the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> My plain with the computer has to over-clock it as much I can while not over heating me, doing all that with as little noise as passable, so you see i have to use water cooling as you can't do that with air cooling.
> The processor is AMD Phenom II 1090T I being planing on over clocking it to 4Ghz at least but due to pump I am still at standard speeds, I'm not happy at all. I've had two others processors used and they where an AMD 2800+ and a Phenom 8450 triple core. My temps for the AMD Phenom II 1090T at idle is about 25c the not so good part at full load ranges from 71C to over heats its done that twice now. My water block is a Alphacool NexXxoS XP.
> My mother board is MSI 980gxm-g65 is a little old now but i need a board that had on board VGA as i did not have enough money for a video card as well.
> My soon to be had will be a radon 6770 I'm getting this one because you get the best performance for the price, I will be putting a Danger Dan i think its a Maze 4 GPU, I don't remember what it is but it still works and that is all that matter to me.
> I got a North bridge water block Last year if i could get a mofet water block i might use it.
> My pump is where my system lets it down its a Danger Dans CSP-MAG it is too slow, I'm going to replace it with 2 DCC 350 working together and if I want I can turn one off if i think its ok. There is so much I can do with these things it will be fun.
> Ashley


Hey Sorcha, I saw your other post and you were asking about high temps, your temps are high for a 1090T (which isnt a powerhouse) you cooling system should be getting you better temps then 71C on load thats worse then air. You might want to post on the CPU section. what are your cpu volts, NB/CPU speed, NB volts? Also your MOBO might also be an issue. I would skip mosfet block and get a new MOBO. And DUST creates a lot of heat, *CLEAN THAT SYSTEM* !!!!


----------



## gelatin_factory

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Not a fan of universal blocks at all either but those are pretty decent looking


Yeah, quite schmexy! I wonder if it can be used with an existing GPU block (swiftech MCW 60) on the top card and the bridge and EK bridge and EK block on the bottom? Basically I'll be damned if I'm buying another block just to use that thing for CF








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcha*
> 
> I would like to add that my garden hose is rated to 100psi
> I like my garden hose I'll be using more of it in the future.
> Ashley










It must have been a real bear to cut, though


----------



## Bit_reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gelatin_factory*
> 
> Yeah, quite schmexy! I wonder if it can be used with an existing GPU block (swiftech MCW 60) on the top card and the bridge and EK bridge and EK block on the bottom? Basically I'll be damned if I'm buying another block just to use that thing for CF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It must have been a real bear to cut, though


Unfortunately no it can't. The EK bridge does not have any threads and instead is pressed against the block using screws. The earlier mentioned swiftech bridge should work with any blocks as it has standard G1/4 threads and barbs.


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You know I'm not a big fan of the universal kits werm but...
> Pair these up
> 
> with these...
> 
> And add some plexi covers to the top and underside, that wouldn't be too bad I don't think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Where can I get these?


----------



## gelatin_factory

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bit_reaper*
> 
> Unfortunately no it can't. The EK bridge does not have any threads and instead is pressed against the block using screws. The earlier mentioned swiftech bridge should work with any blocks as it has standard G1/4 threads and barbs.


Thanks for the quick reply. I guess the screw in mounting is a little easier or they would have used the standard threads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> Where can I get these?


They appear to be in stock here, probably at other stores as well.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=32757


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gelatin_factory*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I guess the screw in mounting is a little easier or they would have used the standard threads.
> They appear to be in stock here, probably at other stores as well.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=32757


And what about the heat spreaders?


----------



## jackofhearts495




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockcoeur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gelatin_factory*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I guess the screw in mounting is a little easier or they would have used the standard threads.
> They appear to be in stock here, probably at other stores as well.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=32757
> 
> 
> 
> And what about the heat spreaders?
Click to expand...

You can get both of them at PPCs' and those heat spreaders are copper I believe. I could be wrong. One of the reasons I am not a fan of universals is the ugly heat spreaders. But those actually look pretty nice.









ModMyToys Heatsinks 

~Ceadder


----------



## rctrucker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcha*
> 
> Whether i tie up my cables or not they are still going to be there in the way my case is old I got it in 20003 it was my first ATX case, i need a new case but because i do not have a job, I'm pushing it getting a new pump and a new video card.
> most of the cases the cases I'm seen around here all of the cables come from behind the mother board I do understand your point, but what the point after tiding with cables ties they are still going to be ugly.
> Ashley


Did anyone else notice that Ashley is from the future!?










I was in the same 20003 time machine as you because I just upgraded to a case with lovely little grommets so I can hide all my cables. As a matter of fact, my old case doesn't even have a place for a fan larger than 80mm...


----------



## Tipless

i just started an overall case mod that includes painting, some acrylic work and a few other odds and ends... heres a lil preview:


----------



## Sorcha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bravo2010*
> Hey Sorcha, I saw your other post and you were asking about high temps, your temps are high for a 1090T (which isnt a powerhouse) you cooling system should be getting you better temps then 71C on load thats worse then air. You might want to post on the CPU section. what are your cpu volts, NB/CPU speed, NB volts? Also your MOBO might also be an issue. I would skip mosfet block and get a new MOBO. And DUST creates a lot of heat, *CLEAN THAT SYSTEM* !!!!


My MOBO is not that old less than 6 months old believe me there is nothing wrong with it, this is the most stable computer i have ever owned bar my old 486 or that could be that i have being using Linux for the last few years.







Also nothing is overclocked yet.

I'll say it again my pump is old and slow too slow for my needs, I can guarantee you if i was to to put air cooling on my system, which I will be for a month, I would get normal air temp under load for that hardware, I can post a pic of this if you would like.

But you are right I need to clean my case, I'm going to have this case for about another year so yeah. how to you clean it without kill stuff, you have to have fans in and they most of the dust, but i don't want to kill my mother board cleaning it. I guess I have to find a static proof duster?

http://www.antistaticfabric.com/4Dust_free_paper.html
http://www.fuzing.com/qrx/anti-static-rags

would something like this do??

Ashley


----------



## Sorcha

[quote name="rctrucker"
Did anyone else notice that Ashley is from the future!?








I was in the same 20003 time machine as you because I just upgraded to a case with lovely little grommets so I can hide all my cables. As a matter of fact, my old case doesn't even have a place for a fan larger than 80mm...[/quote]

ops typo









I'm going to have a shower now









On a side note i guess that means Ill be forever young.......


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can get both of them at PPCs' and those heat spreaders are copper I believe. I could be wrong. One of the reasons I am not a fan of universals is the ugly heat spreaders. But those actually look pretty nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ModMyToys Heatsinks
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, same here. Thanks for the link! +rep to you two guys


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcha*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bravo2010*
> Hey Sorcha, I saw your other post and you were asking about high temps, your temps are high for a 1090T (which isnt a powerhouse) you cooling system should be getting you better temps then 71C on load thats worse then air. You might want to post on the CPU section. what are your cpu volts, NB/CPU speed, NB volts? Also your MOBO might also be an issue. I would skip mosfet block and get a new MOBO. And DUST creates a lot of heat, *CLEAN THAT SYSTEM* !!!!
> 
> 
> 
> My MOBO is not that old less than 6 months old believe me there is nothing wrong with it, this is the most stable computer i have ever owned bar my old 486 or that could be that i have being using Linux for the last few years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also nothing is overclocked yet.
> 
> I'll say it again my pump is old and slow too slow for my needs, I can guarantee you if i was to to put air cooling on my system, which I will be for a month, I would get normal air temp under load for that hardware, I can post a pic of this if you would like.
> 
> But you are right I need to clean my case, I'm going to have this case for about another year so yeah. how to you clean it without kill stuff, you have to have fans in and they most of the dust, but i don't want to kill my mother board cleaning it. I guess I have to find a static proof duster?
> 
> http://www.antistaticfabric.com/4Dust_free_paper.html
> http://www.fuzing.com/qrx/anti-static-rags
> 
> would something like this do??
> 
> Ashley
Click to expand...

Get yourself a hand blower/Vac and use it as a blower only. I suggest taking the system outside when you do it cause you're gonna get choked by the dust. That's not a reflection of your system. Mine has filters and I left noticeable finger prints on top of the Grey Optical Drive the other day. Looks like I know what I'll be doing come Spring.









Anyway get yourself something like this...



Sure beats canned air and no worries about static.









~Ceadder


----------



## AoHxBram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcha*
> 
> My MOBO is not that old less than 6 months old believe me there is nothing wrong with it, this is the most stable computer i have ever owned bar my old 486 or that could be that i have being using Linux for the last few years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also nothing is overclocked yet.
> I'll say it again my pump is old and slow too slow for my needs, I can guarantee you if i was to to put air cooling on my system, which I will be for a month, I would get normal air temp under load for that hardware, I can post a pic of this if you would like.
> But you are right I need to clean my case, I'm going to have this case for about another year so yeah. how to you clean it without kill stuff, you have to have fans in and they most of the dust, but i don't want to kill my mother board cleaning it. I guess I have to find a static proof duster?
> http://www.antistaticfabric.com/4Dust_free_paper.html
> http://www.fuzing.com/qrx/anti-static-rags
> would something like this do??
> Ashley


if your pump is as slow as it is, it might not be getting the warm\hot water away from the cpu block fast enough.
and some other basic steps are to feel if the hose after the cpu is hot, and just check the hoses comming out and in the rad etc.
and make sure the block is seated properly on the cpu if you havent already.

also i heard thermal paste can make quite the difference in cooling performance, but im not sure on that one, someone else will jump in from here probably.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> also i heard thermal paste can make quite the difference in cooling performance, but im not sure on that one, someone else will jump in from here probably.


It's usually just how the stuff is applied that can make temps vary so much. Most aftermarket thermal greases are fairly equivalent in performance.


----------



## ChrisTahoe

Here is my first attempt at water cooling.


----------



## Sorcha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Anyway get yourself something like this...
> 
> Sure beats canned air and no worries about static.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I never seen one of those before any ideas where i might get one in Australia.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> if your pump is as slow as it is, it might not be getting the warm\hot water away from the cpu block fast enough.
> and some other basic steps are to feel if the hose after the cpu is hot, and just check the hoses comming out and in the rad etc.
> and make sure the block is seated properly on the cpu if you havent already.
> also i heard thermal paste can make quite the difference in cooling performance, but im not sure on that one, someone else will jump in from here probably.


My last system that i had in this case the mother board and processor was in there for three years running at full load the hole time, when it was time to take it out the processor out it was stuck to the WB to get the processor off i had get a screw driver to leaver it off, the paste was dry not moist I've never seen paste that dry before.

so what I'm saying is this is a problem I've had for a long time 4 years in about, I'm not sure but i don't think anything to do how well the CPU has being seated to the WB, anyway I'll find out in the next few weeks.........I guess i should have come here and asked for advice before.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> It's usually just how the stuff is applied that can make temps vary so much. Most aftermarket thermal greases are fairly equivalent in performance.


I would agree with this seating the the CPU properly is more important than what thermal greases you use.

Anyway thank you for your advice.

Ashley


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> also i heard thermal paste can make quite the difference in cooling performance, but im not sure on that one, someone else will jump in from here probably.
> 
> 
> 
> It's usually just how the stuff is applied that can make temps vary so much. Most aftermarket thermal greases are fairly equivalent in performance.
Click to expand...

Yup, but some are just the tops. G751 FTW!!!









@Ashley...
I don't know where you would get one Down Under. Might try Google cause I don't know if you Aussies have Amazon.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisTahoe*
> 
> Here is my first attempt at water cooling.


That's one hell of a first attempt









Awesome job!


----------



## ChrisTahoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> That's one hell of a first attempt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome job!


Thank you. The whole thing took about 21 hours to do. I had to dremel out the innards of the middle HDD cage and set it up to mount the radiator. I then ran into issues with the GPU block (first I had my barbs set up in a way that didn't allow proper flow, and then I put it on too tight, causing it to not work) which forced me to drain and refill it twice. It was a ton of work, but now that it's done, I'm glad I did it.


----------



## SimpleTech

Before:










After:


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisTahoe*
> 
> Here is my first attempt at water cooling.


damn brother...that is a "first attempt" that any seasoned builder would be proud of

very nice


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Before:


I now dislike you for posting that.


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup, but some are just the tops. G751 FTW!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i just got my 3g tube in. i went ahead and ordered a tube after the group buy got shut down. what kind of temp gains/losses am i going to get vs XSPC K2?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup, but some are just the tops. G751 FTW!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just got my 3g tube in. i went ahead and ordered a tube after the group buy got shut down. what kind of temp gains/losses am i going to get vs XSPC K2?
Click to expand...

I honestly cannot say. I don't think XSPC makes their own so you might ask them who they use as a TIM provider. I do know that G751 is at the top of the heap next to AS5 of the 80 TIM that was tested. I figure the XSPC stuff comes in somewhere amongst that lineup considering they don't make their own TIM.









I'm glad someone could get some. I hope to be able to start the Group Buy back up but don't have any idea when or if that's happening.









~Ceadder


----------



## mybadomen

Just curious for a crossfire setup wouldn't Serial be better then Parallel ? 2 Cards not 3

Also i don't see threads in my Block. how do these actually connect?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> Just curious for a crossfire setup wouldn't Serial be better then Parallel ? 2 Cards not 3


it depends on your blocks, your rad setup, and your pumps. Both end up working quite well. (I have mine in parallel)


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> Also i don't see threads in my Block. how do these actually connect?


Depends on the block. EK blocks use an additional piece which attaches to both the block and the bridge. For HK and Aquacomputer, you remove the Acetal piece where the fittings go and replace it with the bridge.


----------



## Bit_reaper

If you are talking about the Ek bridges they connect using a link that is screwed on to the block and then the bridge attaches to that

Pictures tell a thousand words see this PDF ---> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109855157.pdf


----------



## wermad

I've tried the EK and HK setup. The EK is more expensive and complex. You gotta pay really good attention when putting this guy together as there's more opportunity to invite mistakes. The HK is far simpler and straight forward. Its also more compact in design and a lot less expensive compared to EK due to it not using the extra "links" as EK.


----------



## mybadomen

I never seen them up close how does the Parallel work ? In the photo i showed it looks like the water never actually goes through the block.Can anyone explain. Also can the same block be run both ways or are they 2 different blocks you buy.The blocks i will be using are EK Nickle EN Blocks .1 is a 6970 and the other might be a 6990 but not sure what block it will have because i might buy a used one.If i decide to go back 2 two 6970's they will both have the nickel EK blocks.Do they have to be both Ek blocks to work?or will a 6990 and 6970 with 2 different blocks be fine.

Thanks for the help guys


----------



## wermad

I made this guide. Explains a bit how these bridges work.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1120989/waterblock-link-bridge-guide-for-crossfire-sli-water-cooled-setups


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> I never seen them up close how does the Parallel work ? In the photo i showed it looks like the water never actually goes through the block.Can anyone explain. Also can the same block be run both ways or are they 2 different blocks you buy.
> Thanks for the help guys


It basically works based on pressure. Look at Wermad's post and you'll see the flow direction. Serial setups are easy to see the flow. For parallel, the water hits all the blocks at the same time and gets forced through each. The water flows through the bridge and hits the wall on the other side, it's then forced through the openings in the blocks and exits the opposite side. Generally speaking, the blocks will each get cooler water, rather than the heat from one block affecting the next in line slightly. You will want to ensure that the blocks used are identical, to avoid issues of "path of least resistance".

The block will accept bridges of both parallel and serial. The bridge and links determine the flow.


----------



## Ceadderman

I was just checking the EK site and it shows their Universal Bridge Blocks don't appear for the 5770, but they appear for the 5850, 70 and 90. Now unless I'm mistaken they're essentially set up the same way only the 58** series has 4 RAM on the edge instead of 2 like the 5770. How does that not work when you cannot put RAM sinks on those RAM either?









Here is a 5850 without the stock HS...



Same width, same GPU, more RAM.









Also as you can see the rear most RAM chip can barely be covered. 1 out of 3 ain't bad I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

It's possible that the mounting holes are slightly different or another component obstructs the block.


----------



## Bit_reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was just checking the EK site and it shows their Universal Bridge Blocks don't appear for the 5770, but they appear for the 5850, 70 and 90. Now unless I'm mistaken they're essentially set up the same way only the 58** series has 4 RAM on the edge instead of 2 like the 5770. How does that not work when you cannot put RAM sinks on those RAM either?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a 5850 without the stock HS...
> 
> Same width, same GPU, more RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also as you can see the rear most RAM chip can barely be covered. 1 out of 3 ain't bad I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Universal Bridge Blocks? You mean the ek-vga supreme hf bridge edition's that we talked about a couple pages back? Its not about ram but it could be about the mounting holes. Perhaps the hole spacing is different on 5770's. Are 5770 listed for the standard vga supreme hf?

Edit: Ninja'd by Angrybutcher

Edit: According to this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1138783/ek-readies-ek-vga-supreme-hf-bridge-edition#post_15259309
there is some room left under the block so it should be possible to slip in some low profile heat-sinks on the memory.


----------



## Byakuya27

Hi

Here is my server

Lian-li V1200B
I7 920
Intel DX58SO
Gskill Trident PC1600 3*2go
GeForce GTX 470
Disque dur 160GO + 1TO + 1.5TO + 2TO
Enermax 550w


----------



## Byakuya27




----------



## mybadomen

Thanks Guys


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was just checking the EK site and it shows their Universal Bridge Blocks don't appear for the 5770, but they appear for the 5850, 70 and 90. Now unless I'm mistaken they're essentially set up the same way only the 58** series has 4 RAM on the edge instead of 2 like the 5770. How does that not work when you cannot put RAM sinks on those RAM either?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a 5850 without the stock HS...
> 
> Same width, same GPU, more RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also as you can see the rear most RAM chip can barely be covered. 1 out of 3 ain't bad I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You can fit lo-profile HS's,i just cut down the bigger HS for mine..


----------



## sebar

Here is my project rig. It is a work in progress and has been evolving for several months now. Currently I am running a Q6600 CPU, R6850 GPU, and an Antec H20 620 CPU cooler in an In Win Dragon Slayer mATX case. Have wanted to get into true water cooling and thought this would be a good place to start, and even get some ideas from other peoples builds.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> It's possible that the mounting holes are slightly different or another component obstructs the block.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bit_reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was just checking the EK site and it shows their Universal Bridge Blocks don't appear for the 5770, but they appear for the 5850, 70 and 90. Now unless I'm mistaken they're essentially set up the same way only the 58** series has 4 RAM on the edge instead of 2 like the 5770. How does that not work when you cannot put RAM sinks on those RAM either?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a 5850 without the stock HS...
> 
> Same width, same GPU, more RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also as you can see the rear most RAM chip can barely be covered. 1 out of 3 ain't bad I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Universal Bridge Blocks? You mean the ek-vga supreme hf bridge edition's that we talked about a couple pages back? Its not about ram but it could be about the mounting holes. Perhaps the hole spacing is different on 5770's. Are 5770 listed for the standard vga supreme hf?
> 
> Edit: Ninja'd by Angrybutcher
> 
> Edit: According to this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1138783/ek-readies-ek-vga-supreme-hf-bridge-edition#post_15259309
> there is some room left under the block so it should be possible to slip in some low profile heat-sinks on the memory.
Click to expand...

I really doubt there is anything obstucting the block and they have the same mounting spread with the 5770 as they do the the other gazillion cards on the market with the GPU. In fact the new Logysis Dracula will fit on both. So I'm not sure why 5770 isn't listed then since there is nothing over the top of the RAM in the 5770. Having had the cover off I know this not to be the case. The width of the cards PCBs are the same as well.









I was looking at the UBs' and there isn't as much room under there as you might think. Granted it's not a flat lip covering them and more like the big slides over in Honolulu but there is no great chunk of space to even get low profile sinks under them. I figure that if I do the Universals I plan on attaching sinks top and bottom if I can do so. Should cool them pretty well that way I would think. But yeah I'm gonna do the UB and Eff it if it doesn't work.









I just don't see anything that would be different other than maybe a couple caps on the back end. I definitely don't remember any surrounding Caps.











Yeah see, cutting them down is the only way to squeeze them in there. Still I don't get how the 5850 can use that block but the 5770 can't. Makes no sense. Looks like I may have to do something for the mosfets as well, looking at the big old HS at the back of the card.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Here is my project rig. It is a work in progress and has been evolving for several months now. Currently I am running a Q6600 CPU, R6850 GPU, and an Antec H20 620 CPU cooler in an In Win Dragon Slayer mATX case. Have wanted to get into true water cooling and thought this would be a good place to start, and even get some ideas from other peoples builds.


when i first saw your case i thought it was a dragon rider until i noticed your HDD slots lol. nicw looking so far


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> Yeah see, cutting them down is the only way to squeeze them in there. Still I don't get how the 5850 can use that block but the 5770 can't. Makes no sense. Looks like I may have to do something for the mosfets as well, looking at the big old HS at the back of the card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Incorrect. I said I cut mine down,you can get lo-profiles that fit,there is 0.9 mm of clearance.
The 5770 is probably not listed as it doesnt really need WC and doesnt put out much heat to begin with.
There is no problem with fitting uni blocks on 5770's,i have done it with no problems...Liquid extasy do several fullcover blocks for a good amount of non ref versions too. http://liquid-extasy.de/


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Before:
> 
> After:


LOL. I have the same block on my HD7970 and didn't even notice that it had those weird racing stripes things. It doesn't look near as out of place as it does on the acetal blocks.


----------



## 1nst1nct1ve

I want to be in the cool kids club!
Let me know if you want pics of anything else.




And the amazing back side!
That side panel is stronger than Arnold Schwarzenegger!


----------



## Haze_hellivo

What a mess!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> Yeah see, cutting them down is the only way to squeeze them in there. Still I don't get how the 5850 can use that block but the 5770 can't. Makes no sense. Looks like I may have to do something for the mosfets as well, looking at the big old HS at the back of the card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Incorrect. I said I cut mine down,you can get lo-profiles that fit,there is 0.9 mm of clearance.
> The 5770 is probably not listed as it doesnt really need WC and doesnt put out much heat to begin with.
> There is no problem with fitting uni blocks on 5770's,i have done it with no problems...Liquid extasy do several fullcover blocks for a good amount of non ref versions too. http://liquid-extasy.de/
Click to expand...

I knew of the LE blocks but they're out of stock at AT atm and to be honest at this point I'd rather do UBs' cause they can transfer from block to block. The HS, that I want on my card you can't get in low profile however and yes they are copper.









~Ceadder


----------



## Systemlord

I'm surprised no one recommended that you don't have to use the EK bridge setup, you can connect your GPU's just like any other VGA block using those below! They come in nickel version as well.

1. Dual VID Connector, Black Adjustable 2-3 Slot Spacing

2. Dual VID Connector, Black Adjustable 1 Slot Spacing


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I'm surprised no one recommended that you don't have to use the EK bridge setup, you can connect your GPU's just like any other VGA block using those below! They come in nickel version as well.
> 1. Dual VID Connector, Black Adjustable 2-3 Slot Spacing
> 2. Dual VID Connector, Black Adjustable 1 Slot Spacing


You'll need to figure out how to connect the uni blocks with these (fittings, ie "T", etc.). With standard full cover blocks, you can use those, as well as these:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sliandcr1vid.html

or go fancy with some Bitspower plug (make sure you measure the space between blocks) like moi









If there's enough space between blocks you can with barbs/compression and tube.


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You'll need to figure out how to connect the uni blocks with these (fittings, ie "T", etc.). With standard full cover blocks, you can use those, as well as these:
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sliandcr1vid.html
> or go fancy with some Bitspower plug (make sure you measure the space between blocks) like moi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If there's enough space between blocks you can with barbs/compression and tube.


haha yeah i accidentally ordered the double spaced crystal tube for the bitspower fittings. good thing i had a pcie slot there


----------



## kazenagi

Monsoon fittings finally came in.. look pretty good with red coolant just need ftwpc to ship out some sleeving then I can make some wires to match.


----------



## Sorcha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get yourself a hand blower/Vac and use it as a blower only. I suggest taking the system outside when you do it cause you're gonna get choked by the dust. That's not a reflection of your system. Mine has filters and I left noticeable finger prints on top of the Grey Optical Drive the other day. Looks like I know what I'll be doing come Spring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway get yourself something like this...
> 
> Sure beats canned air and no worries about static.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hey i had a look on the internet the only place i can find to buy that is on (link below) amazon more than likely the place you got yours from, I'm not sure if it will run on Australian power with out blowing up, i don't know much about this.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_hi?_encoding=UTF8&node=228013&field-brandtextbin=Metro%20Vacuum

I did a search for something that could take its place and i think its Tim the tool man to powerful, the air it blows out is up to 240km, so what do you think.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_black-decker-12v-cordless-broom_1124.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=blower+vac&utm_campaign=Other|Garden|Powertools&filter=categoryname--Blower+Vac&page=1

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_homelite-2400-watt-electric-blower-vac_434.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=blower+vac&utm_campaign=Other|Garden|Powertools&filter=categoryname--Blower+Vac&page=1

I think these things will blow everything off my desk, you never know it may even embed it in the wall.

Ashley


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Monsoon fittings finally came in.. look pretty good with red coolant just need ftwpc to ship out some sleeving then I can make some wires to match.


I just ordered a couple of 6PK sets of Monsoon black chrome fittings today, along with my acrylic EK blocks and other bits and pieces... Glad to see someone here actually sport them on their rig.

What ID/OD size hose are you running?


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Monsoon fittings finally came in.. look pretty good with red coolant just need ftwpc to ship out some sleeving then I can make some wires to match.
> =snip=


is that the MIPS motherboard block for the M4E-z? i must know where you bought it if that is it.


----------



## Ceadderman

@Ashley... yeah that's just a tad bit overkill. You might look for a hand vac with blower attachment. Sadly I'm not well versed on what is available in your neck of the world.









@kazenagi... those fittings look awesome bro. Glad to see that someone here got some and how they look in a well put together rig.









@ProfeZZor X... I believe those are 3/8" fittings. Hose seems to small to be anything bigger.









@brownieapple... EK block I believe. I don't believe the Mips has the RoG emblem cutout to swap over the emblem. I could be wrong, but also Mips has a different look to that block if I remember correctly.









~Ceadder


----------



## kazenagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> is that the MIPS motherboard block for the M4E-z? i must know where you bought it if that is it.


Bought the block used since ~160 for a mobo block is just insane







but you could probably find it at PPC or Aquatuning for sure though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I just ordered a couple of 6PK sets of Monsoon black chrome fittings today, along with my acrylic EK blocks and other bits and pieces... Glad to see someone here actually sport them on their rig.
> What ID/OD size hose are you running?


3/8ID 5/8OD


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @brownieapple... EK block I believe. I don't believe the Mips has the RoG emblem cutout to swap over the emblem. I could be wrong, but also Mips has a different look to that block if I remember correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


the EK block just has you glue the emblem on. you don't get to keep the pretty light. but the MIPS block on the other hand the cut out is deep enough to place the whole thing in there.

that and MIPS is the only company that makes a block for the Z edition of that board. that fits without bending a capacitor









@kazenagi dang if you stumble across another one of those used or new for a decent price please PM me or something


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @brownieapple... EK block I believe. I don't believe the Mips has the RoG emblem cutout to swap over the emblem. I could be wrong, but also Mips has a different look to that block if I remember correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the EK block just has you glue the emblem on. you don't get to keep the pretty light. but the MIPS block on the other hand the cut out is deep enough to place the whole thing in there.
> 
> that and MIPS is the only company that makes a block for the Z edition of that board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @kazenagi dang if you stumble across another one of those used or new for a decent price please PM me or something
Click to expand...

Haha, I did say I could be wrong.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rowey




----------



## mironccr345

Hey everyone, will this,

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12306/ex-blc-853/EK_GeForce_580_GTX_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Electroless_Nickel_Plated_EK-FC580_GTX_-_EN_Nickel.html?tl=g30c311s1356

fit a reference EVGA GTX 570? I've seen some EK blocks that were made for the 570 that were compatible with the 580, I was wondering if the same applies with the 580 blocks? Thanks!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rowey*


Looks great, but this piece is dying for either a quick disconnect, T fitting with drain, or a 90 degree fitting and a trim


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rowey*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


Why not use an angled fitting under your 580? Seems a little out of place with all the other angled fittings.


----------



## Rowey

Yep, i agree. Thinking about slapping a y fitting there as a drain dont trust those quick disconnects. Btw, this is my first ever attempt at watercooling, this is my first ever loop









Thanks for your comp

@jack, i ran out of 45's and i didn't want to put a 90 on it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Rowey

Thanks


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Hey everyone, will this,
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12306/ex-blc-853/EK_GeForce_580_GTX_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Electroless_Nickel_Plated_EK-FC580_GTX_-_EN_Nickel.html?tl=g30c311s1356
> fit a reference EVGA GTX 570? I've seen some EK blocks that were made for the 570 that were compatible with the 580, I was wondering if the same applies with the 580 blocks? Thanks!


This block will work as long as your card(s) is not the HD model. The EVGA HDs are a different board and have their own blocks.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> This block will work as long as your card(s) is not the HD model. The EVGA HDs are a different board and have their own blocks.


Thanks for the quick reply. +rep to you sir!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rowey*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great, but this piece is dying for either a quick disconnect, T fitting with drain, or a 90 degree fitting and a trim
Click to expand...

Well sing it looks like he has a Bay Pump/Res that the extra tubing is so he can slide the Res out enough to top it off. I could be wrong but I would think that's why the extra extra extra tubing from the GPU to the Bay is there.









As per your request...

Due to all the work that's been done here on the interior(Windows, Doors, Kitchen face lift) this is what it looks like inside my system which has no top filter...



The ODD isn't too noticeable to you all maybe, so I made sure to get a pic of the bottom of the 5.25 rack...



Yup, I should write "Wash Me" somewhere in all that dust.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Dust!? FOR SHAME!


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah tell me bout it, I wouldn't be able to do my WC'ing til I get this junk eradicated from my case.









If I shut her down and use a moist towel to get the non electrical stuff, it'll be worse later on. I love my DEMCiFlex filters but not even they can stop the kind of dust we've had over the last couple weeks. And blow-off won't do the job all by itself it's that bad. I'ma feel like Pigpen when I finally get a dry day when the sun is out to do a credible job of it.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

haha well I got two cats that pretty much live in my room. Every day, I wipe my hand over the PSU filter and get a nice clump of cat hair...


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> haha well I got two cats that pretty much live in my room. Every day, I wipe my hand over the PSU filter and get a nice clump of cat hair...


That's how the front of my HAF-X is


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah tell me bout it, I wouldn't be able to do my WC'ing til I get this junk eradicated from my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I shut her down and use a moist towel to get the non electrical stuff, it'll be worse later on. I love my DEMCiFlex filters but not even they can stop the kind of dust we've had over the last couple weeks. And blow-off won't do the job all by itself it's that bad. I'ma feel like Pigpen when I finally get a dry day when the sun is out to do a credible job of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have a few Demciflex filters as well. How do you clean yours? I have found that taking them off and brushing them off with a soft bristle paint brush makes them look brand new


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have a few Demciflex filters as well. How do you clean yours? I have found that taking them off and brushing them off with a soft bristle paint brush makes them look brand new


I use a quick swipe from a microfiber cloth. It works great.


----------



## RushMore1205

does anyone know???

is there still no waterblock for gtx560ti 448 core????????????? non classified edition????????????


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah tell me bout it, I wouldn't be able to do my WC'ing til I get this junk eradicated from my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I shut her down and use a moist towel to get the non electrical stuff, it'll be worse later on. I love my DEMCiFlex filters but not even they can stop the kind of dust we've had over the last couple weeks. And blow-off won't do the job all by itself it's that bad. I'ma feel like Pigpen when I finally get a dry day when the sun is out to do a credible job of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few Demciflex filters as well. How do you clean yours? I have found that taking them off and brushing them off with a soft bristle paint brush makes them look brand new
Click to expand...

I rinse them and let them dry every couple weeks or so...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have a few Demciflex filters as well. How do you clean yours? I have found that taking them off and brushing them off with a soft bristle paint brush makes them look brand new
> 
> 
> 
> I use a quick swipe from a microfiber cloth. It works great.
Click to expand...

And I use a soft bristle brush to knock off the dust on the side back and fronts.

I'm sure a microfiber works okay but I keep my MF sheet for the plexi window more than I attempt using it on my filters.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> does anyone know???
> is there still no waterblock for gtx560ti 448 core????????????? non classified edition????????????


Did you ever check coolingconfigurator.com ? Your PCB looked weird if I remember it correctly. Perhaps its time for a universal?


----------



## Bit_reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I rinse them and let them dry every couple weeks or so...
> And I use a soft bristle brush to knock off the dust on the side back and fronts.
> I'm sure a microfiber works okay but I keep my MF sheet for the plexi window more than I attempt using it on my filters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


A couple weeks







You really are a careful one aren't you. When I wash of the dust on my Silverstone filters I just shake them and let them dry for like an hour or even less.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Did you ever check coolingconfigurator.com ? Your PCB looked weird if I remember it correctly. Perhaps its time for a universal?


lol no my pcb is stock, its just the classfied was supplied with our 480 pcbs, and i hate universal blocks, i want FULL COVER dam it


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> lol no my pcb is stock, its just the classfied was supplied with our 480 pcbs, and i hate universal blocks, i want FULL COVER dam it


Give me a link to your cards









Also, what's a winnder (in your sig)?


----------



## Chatters

Hi all, first post here, I just wanted to share my first watercooled attempt.

The case is a Silverstone fto2 , the radiator is a 540mm Magicool in push/pull








Space was bit of a problem having to fit in six 180mm fans, the sata slots became blocked so i had to buy a sata controller, I also had to remove the harddrive bays:thumb: My gtx 580 also just fits by mm's
As you can see the case isn't very good for cable management, but i've managed to lessen some of the mess by buying a lamptron fan controller so I don't have to keep removing the top of the case to control the fans+pump.

Processor is an i5 750, overclocked to 4.4ghz the temps hover around 65 deg's , 54 degrees @ 4ghz and 39 deg's @ 2.66ghz , stresstesting on prime95.

photos aren't the best , sorry

rate







/hate


----------



## Bit_reaper

Look pretty sweet. To bad that block does not have threads on the other side. It would have made for a lot cleaner installation.


----------



## kamikaze_

The tubing/water looks a bit merky.


----------



## Chatters

ye it would be a lot cleaner if the threads were on the other side but I don' t think any were made for the dcii
the water looks a bit murky, but it's only the camera lighting:thumb:


----------



## Hogwasher

I am running the XSPC RX240 right now. Getting great temps but at idle the pump is louder then when I was air cooling.

So I plan on using a small amount of my tax money to get a new pump. My goal is near silent, but still good performance. I want to hear my case fans not the pump









Max budget is probably $150 closer to $100.

Any suggestions? Should I just start a separate thread for this?

should add I use the fan controller on my phantom and have it turned all the way down at all times


----------



## Liighthead

Really? Have you got all the bubbles out of the loop?

Mine had a bit of noise but got all the bubbles out and it's slient







?


----------



## Hogwasher

its not "loud' but no where near silent. There's no bubbles even used the two drops of dawn trick. It just hums at the right level to annoy the piss out of me. Case use to be on the desk now on the floor

much louder then the case fans

Contacted XSPC and they said the pump is rated at 42dB and fans are 35dB

so according to them it's not "silent"

I'll admit I have picky ears, but if this is 42dB then I am looking for something like half that


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> its not "loud' but no where near silent. There's no bubbles even used the two drops of dawn trick. It just hums at the right level to annoy the piss out of me. Case use to be on the desk now on the floor
> much louder then the case fans
> Contacted XSPC and they said the pump is rated at 42dB and fans are 35dB
> so according to them it's not "silent"
> I'll admit I have picky ears, but if this is 42dB then I am looking for something like half that


Maybe it's just another bad pump. A lot of people seem to have trouble with the pumps in Rasa kits. Mine seems to be fine... I can only hear it when I literally put my ear up to the res, and even then it's only a low, faint hum.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## ej200

i m new here.
D-teck CPU block
Laing D5 pump
Swiftech Radiator x2 (case too small,cant put dual Radiator)


----------



## evensen007

Just finished my build in the new NZXT Switch 810 case:


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*


Looks really nice and what fullcover motherboard block is that? I know i have seen it but can't remember the name or website.








EDIT: Found it, MIPS right?

My current setup, have a GTX360 rad for the 480's, just need some SLI fittings.


----------



## sate200

ek bridge 6900´s!!!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Those are some massive blocks... those cards must weight a crapton.


----------



## Angrybutcher

More pics this weekend and in my build log


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bit_reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I rinse them and let them dry every couple weeks or so...
> And I use a soft bristle brush to knock off the dust on the side back and fronts.
> I'm sure a microfiber works okay but I keep my MF sheet for the plexi window more than I attempt using it on my filters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple weeks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You really are a careful one aren't you. When I wash of the dust on my Silverstone filters I just shake them and let them dry for like an hour or even less.
Click to expand...









I don't let them dry that long. That's the schedule I use to rinse them. Every couple weeks or so.









That would be







to dry them that long. Even for someone who is as OCD as I am.

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evensen007*
> 
> Just finished my build in the new NZXT Switch 810 case:
> 
> *snippennze*
> 
> 
> 
> *snippenze*


Nice an clean







can't wait to get my Liquid Fusion Res goin. I'm jeally.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks really nice and what fullcover motherboard block is that? I know i have seen it but can't remember the name or website.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Found it, MIPS right?
> 
> My current setup, have a GTX360 rad for the 480's, just need some SLI fittings.
Click to expand...

Very nice setup.









That is a Mips block and you can get one through PPCs'/Aquatuning.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry bout double post stupid Huddler is gonna tick me off in the worst way. I hit *edit* and it decided that I wanted to quote myself. AGAIN!









~Ceadder


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> My current setup, have a GTX360 rad for the 480's, just need some SLI fittings.


Very nice.

I'm curious how you handled the cable management in your A77. Do you have any pics of the backside of the motherboard tray?


----------



## wermad

Meh, I bought a MIVE EK block and the MIVE was deffective







. Bought a P67 FTW and I found a HK chipset block for it on swc that I grabbed.

Just got my three 480s with their Danger Den blocks and my SR1 480mm


----------



## SimpleTech

^^ Oh.. nice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> ^^ Oh.. nice.


Thank you good sir


----------



## Ceadderman

I would love to get my damned board under water. Hopefully I can sell my Weaponized account soon.

Should get more than enough from it to finish my loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## LiljHoN05

here's mine:


----------



## Angrybutcher

^ Very nice! Are those side panels painted or an applique?


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiljHoN05*
> 
> here's mine:


i think i just wet myself. damn nice build. the temp readout is sweet. great idea


----------



## LiljHoN05

Quote:


> ^ Very nice! Are those side panels painted or an applique?


Air Brush painted by me,. ^_^

Quote:


> i think i just wet myself. damn nice build. the temp readout is sweet. great idea


thanks man,. ^_^


----------



## 636_Castle

Can anyone provide some input on a problem I'm having?

My H80 radiator fan header on the pump isn't allowing the fan cable to seat on to the header very well at all. There's two headers, for the two fans. The one fan goes in fine, but the other won't go in really.


----------



## SonDa5

Some great looking loops in here.

Here is my 1 CPU and 1 GPU loop with some photos from the build.

Nobody makes a full cover VGA block for this card so I took action.

Before.










After.

MSI GTX560ti 448 TFIII/PE Double Deuce WAR Edition



















As always I had a good time this water cooling project.

Since I had an Apogee XT sitting around I modified it to fit on my video card. I also ported the top part of the block out to help increase flow. Swiftech did the same thing with the block on the 2nd version model of the Apogee Xt. Used stock MSI GTX560ti 448 heat sink with a Koolance MVR-40 block to cool vrm/memory heat sink.

Photos from the project.

Apogee XT War GTX560ti 448 battle ship Mod parts.









Port work on the Apogee Xt version 1 block.










MSI GTX560ti 448 TFIII/PE bare card with vrm/memory heatsink.










IC Diamond paste on both blocks. (Koolance VRM block.)










Double Deuce action.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *636_Castle*
> 
> Can anyone provide some input on a problem I'm having?
> 
> My H80 radiator fan header on the pump isn't allowing the fan cable to seat on to the header very well at all. There's two headers, for the two fans. The one fan goes in fine, but the other won't go in really.


You might do better going to the H50 club and poking round there. Alot more knowledge floating around there on those koolers than there is here. Not that there aren't knowledgeable people here, there is just more experience with the Hydro Series coolers there.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonDa5*
> 
> Some great looking loops in here.
> 
> Nobody makes a full cover VGA block for this card so I took action.
> 
> MSI GTX560ti 448 TFIII/PE Double Deuce WAR Edition
> 
> As always I had a good time this water cooling project.
> 
> Since I had an Apogee XT sitting around I modified it to fit on my video card. I also ported the top part of the block out to help increase flow. Swiftech did the same thing with the block on the 2nd version model of the Apogee Xt. Used stock MSI GTX560ti 448 heat sink with a Koolance MVR-40 block to cool vrm/memory heat sink.
> 
> Photos from the project.
> 
> Apogee XT War GTX560ti 448 battle ship Mod parts.
> 
> MSI GTX560ti 448 TFIII/PE bare card with vrm/memory heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Deuce action.


Why didn't you run your GPU outlet to the VRM inlet?









Is that support plate a cooling plate as well? That's freakin sweet. Would love to find something like that for my 5770 so I could OC the *hell* out of it.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

hey guys quick question, will a gtx 480 backplate fit on a gtx580
???????????


----------



## SonDa5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why didn't you run your GPU outlet to the VRM inlet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that support plate a cooling plate as well?
> ~Ceadder


Using Swiftech Apogee HD block parallel feature to distribute flow from CPU block. The HD is designed to do this kind of run so I did it. Cools great.
The support plate is a heat sink for the vreg and memory.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> hey guys quick question, will a gtx 480 backplate fit on a gtx580
> ???????????


Nope, they're both a different PCB design and the screw holes will not match up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> hey guys quick question, will a gtx 480 backplate fit on a gtx580
> ???????????


Looks identical, most likely it its. I've seen evga 480 backplates on the 580 and vice versa.


----------



## OverClocker55

*I just read all these pages......







*


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> *I just read all these pages......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


When did you start reading through, last year?


----------



## jellis142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> *I just read all these pages......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Wonderful!

Now accept this challenge


----------



## KaRLiToS

This is my latest update on my build, finished this week

HardWare
-Swapped my R3E for a Rampage IV Extreme with 3930k
-Added Corsair Dominator GT 2133Mhz 16GB kit
-Added a Third 6970
-Added a second SSD (Crucial M4 128GB)

WaterLoop
-Changed the Tubing from White to Red and Black
-Changed the pattern of some fittings
-Changed my HeatKiller 3.0 for an EK HF Supreme full Nickel (EN)
-Put a full Koolance Motherboard block kit for RIVE
-Added a Fillport
-Added an internal Reservoir (EK Multioption Res 150 advanced) and removed the annoying Bay Res

*I call it ROK Red Black Stealth* (ROK for RePuBLiC oF KaRLiToS) (Stealth because I have few lights, I don't like too much
and its more black than my previous versions)


----------



## Los Hog

That looks great KaRLiToS


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks awesome Karlitos.









One question though. Why the black fittings? Are you going to change them out with shiny shinies or are they staying black?









Still that's a sick build, an I hope mine is half as nice when I finally get it done.









~Ceadder


----------



## (sic)

Very nice KaRLiToS!

The combo red and black tubing came out great.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Thanks Guys for the comments, I appreciate, i'm very happy. Next Step, Heavy Overclock. I did a Normal OC using the BIOS preset (and reduce Vcore of course because ROG overvolt) and at 4.4Ghz, my CPU temp is at 47'C. I still have a lot of room to OC








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks awesome Karlitos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One question though. Why the black fittings? Are you going to change them out with shiny shinies or are they staying black?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still that's a sick build, an I hope mine is half as nice when I finally get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hi Ceadder, it will stay like this, I didnt want black fittings at first but I ordered my mobo and CPU from newegg.ca and they had some fittings. Usually I order from PPCs but shipping and custom fees are insane to Montréal, Canada, especially only for 4 fittings. Newegg had only 2 remaining Silver fitting so I had to order black one. dazmode didnt have the fittings I wanted, not even bitspower. I'm still glad with the overall look. But my favorite Mod is the EK Multioption Res and Fillport, its so easy to fill. With that reservoir being inside, I save so many useless tube.

Remember my previous version


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would love to find something like that for my 5770 so I could OC the *hell* out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Why? I maxed my pair 5770's with no WC and it made NO difference at all.....


----------



## ClaytonGFinley

mine!

i7 2600k @ 4.5ghz
gtx 580 @ 950mhz

nothing too fancy, but for the price i got all the parts for, i think it looks decent.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very nice setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a Mips block and you can get one through PPCs'/Aquatuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks and a big thanks for the info that aquatuning got MIPS blocks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Very nice.
> I'm curious how you handled the cable management in your A77. Do you have any pics of the backside of the motherboard tray?


My management is not the best, at all, here's a pic. The 8-pin was to short to go "the usual way" so had to route it under the motherboard. To the left is my storage disk mounted.


----------



## Philliesfan

2nd post: Glamor shot.


----------



## driftingforlife

Can't remeber if i posted or not so here is my atm. Changed it from single loop to duel loop.


----------



## RussianHak

Got my build almost done. Still have to put a waterblock i have laying around on the 6950.



sorry for the crappy pic. Only got my phone to take pics with.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Can't remeber if i posted or not so here is my atm. Changed it from single loop to duel loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh my, that thing is screaming for a bigger rad at the bottom! Nice build!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Thanks Guys for the comments, I appreciate, i'm very happy. Next Step, Heavy Overclock. I did a Normal OC using the BIOS preset (and reduce Vcore of course because ROG overvolt) and at 4.4Ghz, my CPU temp is at 47'C. I still have a lot of room to OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks awesome Karlitos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One question though. Why the black fittings? Are you going to change them out with shiny shinies or are they staying black?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still that's a sick build, an I hope mine is half as nice when I finally get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ceadder, it will stay like this, I didnt want black fittings at first but I ordered my mobo and CPU from newegg.ca and they had some fittings. Usually I order from PPCs but shipping and custom fees are insane to Montréal, Canada, especially only for 4 fittings. Newegg had only 2 remaining Silver fitting so I had to order black one. dazmode didnt have the fittings I wanted, not even bitspower. I'm still glad with the overall look. But my favorite Mod is the EK Multioption Res and Fillport, its so easy to fill. With that reservoir being inside, I save so many useless tube.
> 
> Remember my previous version
Click to expand...

Yes I do remember the old setup. This new one looks very very nice though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would love to find something like that for my 5770 so I could OC the *hell* out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why? I maxed my pair 5770's with no WC and it made NO difference at all.....
Click to expand...

Because this is OCN and because I can. No such thing as overkill on OCN.






















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philliesfan*
> 
> 2nd post: Glamor shot.


Really like your build my friend. Something about that Red and Black theme just gets me all verklempt.









~Ceadder


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Oh my, that thing is screaming for a bigger rad at the bottom! Nice build!


thanks, if there was a bigger RAD there would be no where for the PSU.


----------



## SheaGA

Hey guys and gals, just wanted to do a little update on my system and shear it with you. So what I did was I changed the MB to ME4Z with 16 gb corsair 1866 2700K cpu 2 GTX 580's and I also changed out the sleeving from mdpc to paracord and I'm loving it, it looks so cool. Well see for yourself.


----------



## coolhandluke41

@SheaGA very well done


----------



## Onions

looks great


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> thanks, if there was a bigger RAD there would be no where for the PSU.


Ha hadn't noticed







. How about putting that PSU vertical, like in the TJ07? That bottom compartment is so tall you could easily fit a rad for 140mm fans, and probably even 180mm ...


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Ha hadn't noticed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . How about putting that PSU vertical, like in the TJ07? That bottom compartment is so tall you could easily fit a rad for 140mm fans, and probably even 180mm ...


If I need to I can stick another 480mm RAD the otherside, Thats how i had it with a single loop.


----------



## OverClocker55




----------



## btwalter

Finally built my 1st loop.


----------



## sli_shroom

sheaga...love the orange color scheme. nice build


----------



## The Muffin Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaytonGFinley*
> 
> mine!
> i7 2600k @ 4.5ghz
> gtx 580 @ 950mhz
> nothing too fancy, but for the price i got all the parts for, i think it looks decent.


Wow! I really like the black tubing with the uv blue anti kinking coil, never thought of that!







Looks good


----------



## mybadomen

He he i see anti kink coils making a come back


----------



## SheaGA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> @SheaGA very well done


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> looks great


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> sheaga...love the orange color scheme. nice build


Thanks for looking, i'm very happy with it.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> He he i see anti kink coils making a come back


I think you may very well have something to do with that


----------



## hex65000

Finally, I'm ready to show off my monster... Piranacon rises!









My work log here on OCN






Just dropped in a 16GB RAM upgrade and am finishing the Windows 7 configuration on the SSD I added. The machine isn't pretty, but it is done for a while.

Hex.
[ Could just as easily called it Autobot X for the mishmash of parts, but that lacks a water theme,,, < Philosoraptor pose > ]


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> I have this pump top and I really like it.


Dang i really like this pump top....too bad it wont work with a MCP655 i am guessing?

I am in the market for a pump top, i just cant really decide on one....

Edit:Been watching some videos. I think i will go with the Bitspower top and mod kit.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> Dang i really like this pump top....too bad it wont work with a MCP655 i am guessing?
> I am in the market for a pump top, i just cant really decide on one....
> Edit:Been watching some videos. I think i will go with the Bitspower top and mod kit.


The koolance pump top I have will work with the MCP655, that is the pump I currently have.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9779/ex-pmp-90/Koolance_G14_Threaded_Acetal_Pump_Base_for_PMP-450_MCP650655_Laing_D5_COV-RP450.html?tl=g30c107s156


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> The koolance pump top I have will work with the MCP655, that is the pump I currently have.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9779/ex-pmp-90/Koolance_G14_Threaded_Acetal_Pump_Base_for_PMP-450_MCP650655_Laing_D5_COV-RP450.html?tl=g30c107s156


That doesn't come with the mod kit?

EDIT: Dang it comes with the whole kit too....hmmmm the bitspower mod top alone is 50, and you need the mod kit to make it look as good as this koolance one...


----------



## sli_shroom

i do like the black sparkle kit from bitspower


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey sli, how come you just don't get yourself a Dual D5 top? I'm pretty sure it would be better than coupled the way yours are set up but I'd have to go back to Martin's page to be absolutely sure.









Still I think as nice as your setup is now it would make your build look even better.









~Ceadder


----------



## GoodInk

Is it just me or is Koolance really starting step their game up lately? I know they have been around and made great things for a long time, it just seems that lately everything thing is a little nicer and a little easier on the wallet.


----------



## 161029

IMO anti-kink coils look kind of aweful. Just get enough tubing so you don't get any kinds.

But that's only my opinion.


----------



## Jollyriffic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> IMO anti-kink coils look kind of aweful. Just get enough tubing so you don't get any kinds.
> But that's only my opinion.


agree with that
also i see a lot of expensive builds but many lack the nice degree fittings.
if those were added it would clean up the internal a lot and wouldn't have to worry about kinking.


----------



## lowfat

You really should never need anti kink coils. If you can't make a bend then do the following.

1. Buy rope that fits the inside diameter of the tubing.
2. Heat up the tubing in some boiling water for 30 seconds to a minute.
3. Run the rope through the tubing. Bend it to its desired shape.
4. Run cold water over the tubing.
5. Repeat if necessary.

You will be able to get pretty ridiculous bends out of your tubing this way. It is also the best way to get rid of the bends out of tubing after it comes off the roll.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey sli, how come you just don't get yourself a Dual D5 top? I'm pretty sure it would be better than coupled the way yours are set up but I'd have to go back to Martin's page to be absolutely sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still I think as nice as your setup is now it would make your build look even better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yea i already had one pump set up that i had been using in a previous build. halfway through my new build i decided to add a second pump (my backup that was just wasting away in the closet) so it was cheaper/easier to buy a second top and chain them

there is always next time


----------



## Zan30

Hope this is worthy This is my first water cooling loop hope you enjoy


----------



## TwentyCent

Looking good, but show that nice res!


----------



## Zan30

Ok here you go


----------



## cruelntention

i wanna join, first water cool build ever. will do video when kepler releases.


----------



## TwentyCent

Ha I meant in the case, like install it differently so it shows better


----------



## Zan30

Ah Right get you now had the res in a few places & this in what i settled on like it better there still got the gtx 570 block to put on and the res is at a nice angle for the out on the block to the bottom of the res


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zan30*
> 
> Hope this is worthy This is my first water cooling loop hope you enjoy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruelntention*
> 
> i wanna join, first water cool build ever. will do video when kepler releases.


How are you two liking the DCP 4.0 pump? I got mine up and running about a week ago and I'm very unhappy with how loud it is. I have mine running at about 1350 rpm's just to get it at an acceptable noise level.


----------



## a11an

Any reason why you ppl buy the DC12-400 (EK 4.0) pump?

If you need a cheap pump then buy the DC12-260. It's silent and has enough power for at least 2 blocks.


----------



## Zan30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> How are you two liking the DCP 4.0 pump? I got mine up and running about a week ago and I'm very unhappy with how loud it is. I have mine running at about 1350 rpm's just to get it at an acceptable noise level.


i did't know you could control the speed mine runs at 2000Rpm's and after bleeding the air out i find me to be acceptable until i upgrade to d5 655


----------



## lowfat




----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Updated Picture of BabyMountain


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


nice...milky goodness


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


nice.


----------



## OverClocker55




----------



## jackofhearts495

So many awesome builds!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Any reason why you ppl buy the DC12-400 (EK 4.0) pump?
> 
> If you need a cheap pump then buy the DC12-260. It's silent and has enough power for at least 2 blocks.


I wanted more power just in case I upgraded down the road.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zan30*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> How are you two liking the DCP 4.0 pump? I got mine up and running about a week ago and I'm very unhappy with how loud it is. I have mine running at about 1350 rpm's just to get it at an acceptable noise level.
> 
> 
> 
> i did't know you could control the speed mine runs at 2000Rpm's and after bleeding the air out i find me to be acceptable until i upgrade to d5 655
Click to expand...

A good fan controller or if your MB has some heave duty fan headers like mine does (24 watts per header, most are about 12 watts per header) then you can. The pump is rated at 18 watts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


I'm loving the white coolant








I wish the red pastel was more red than pink. I wonder if you mixed it with some blood red if it would help


----------



## cruelntention

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> How are you two liking the DCP 4.0 pump? I got mine up and running about a week ago and I'm very unhappy with how loud it is. I have mine running at about 1350 rpm's just to get it at an acceptable noise level.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Any reason why you ppl buy the DC12-400 (EK 4.0) pump?
> If you need a cheap pump then buy the DC12-260. It's silent and has enough power for at least 2 blocks.


@GoodInk, my loop has been up and running for about 3weeks now i think, and honestly it isn't loud at all, i hear my video and memory fan more then i do the pump. i hear it upon start up, but after that, it doesn't even bother me.

@a11an, i got the pump from the marketplace at a good price, i know i could have gotten a better pump, but this was my first loop, and i'm pretty sure when kepler comes out and i get ref. cards i'll upgrade to bay res with dual pumps. right now it does a pretty good job and doesn't bother me with the noise.


----------



## DeckerDontPlay




----------



## cruelntention

haha, that's awesome!


----------



## kibet85

Almost done..jus a few shots.....


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kibet85*
> 
> 
> Almost done..jus a few shots.....


Isn't the hard drive cage blocking a lot of air flow from the bottom part of the rad?


----------



## kibet85

nah......not really....


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kibet85*
> 
> 
> Almost done..jus a few shots.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't the hard drive cage blocking a lot of air flow from the bottom part of the rad?
Click to expand...

Where would you like it at, lol


----------



## Aventadoor

Damn Im struggling to choose which LD V8 color...
My fav color is blue, and my current motherboard is blue so its so tempting to go blue. But in the other hand, I will be getting 2011 or Ivy when that comes so ye...


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Damn Im struggling to choose which LD V8 color...
> My fav color is blue, and my current motherboard is blue so its so tempting to go blue. But in the other hand, I will be getting 2011 or Ivy when that comes so ye...


I love my black one but the white ones are also nice..


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Damn Im struggling to choose which LD V8 color...
> My fav color is blue, and my current motherboard is blue so its so tempting to go blue. But in the other hand, I will be getting 2011 or Ivy when that comes so ye...


Always go colour neutral. Anything else and you are stuck buying motherboards that match the case.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Jason33w

So, I went and did a bit of maintenance on my system today. Did a flush of my WC loop and removed the elbows. Also, I went ahead and frosted my Enzotech Luna Rev. A CPU block. I must say, it looks sick!

I wanted to get my reservoir prepped for my upgrade in mid march So I wanted it to be flush with the rear of the drive bays. Unfortunately the XSPC XO2-750's faceplate does not have a notch in it to allow the drive bay supports to pass through, so I dremmeled it away (very carefully):




I also wanted to show off my radiator mounting system











And now for the new Enzotech Luna! I think it really makes the blue light POP!
There is the block with full case lighting:


And with the lights on low:


Upward glance:


The whole deal:


In about a month I'll be replacing these monster cards with 2 7970's and will put then under water along with adding a new reservoir with a MCP-655 pump and another 240 rad on the bottom.


----------



## kapar07

This is my computer, i have been working on it for the past few weeks. I still have to finalize a few more tweaks here and there but in the mean time here are a few picks. My 955 and gtx 470 water cooled with the Raystorm kit.

Originally had the ex 240, then added the rs 360 later


rs 360 included


Opened up a whole for the tubes




this is what i mean by need to finalize things, such as opening up the second whole for the bottom fan


----------



## TahoeDust

Ha! I was going to come in here and post some pics of my H100 setup, but a meager H100 is not worthy of being in the same thread as some of these cooling setups. Very nice guys!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> Ha! I was going to come in here and post some pics of my H100 setup, but a meager H100 is not worthy of being in the same thread as some of these cooling setups. Very nice guys!


There are many Corsair H's in the club, post away.


----------



## lowfat

Took some pics outside today.


----------



## TahoeDust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> There are many Corsair H's in the club, post away.


Well, here we go. H100 with push/pull Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans


----------



## GoodInk

lowfat I love it







I put you in for MOTM but you have posted it elsewhere. What lens are you using on that Canon?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> lowfat I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put you in for MOTM but you have posted it elsewhere. What lens are you using on that Canon?


The kit lens on my T3i. I'll upgrade one of these days.


----------



## jackofhearts495

I can't even verbalize how much I love that rig, Lowfat. It's so freaking clean...


----------



## manu97416

I'm really down ATM looking at all these pics
I will probably get a wc loop for my bday but no one understands in my family that this is a hobby and getting a better CPU won't make me happier.
It's the building and testing that is fun not just getting a better CPU...
Tried to explain for the last 2 months ...


----------



## phillyd

welp, heres my first wc build EVER


more/better pics coming soon


----------



## jonnylaris

Ugly stickers!


----------



## Nynn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Took some pics outside today.
> 
> -Images-
> 
> Amazing loop. Awesome of you to hide some tubing behind the motherboard like that. Hope you didnt scratch the bottom of your case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice color scheme too


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> I'm really down ATM looking at all these pics
> I will probably get a wc loop for my bday but no one understands in my family that this is a hobby and getting a better CPU won't make me happier.
> It's the building and testing that is fun not just getting a better CPU...
> Tried to explain for the last 2 months ...


Haha I feel ya. I told my dad that I was gonna get a custom waterccooling kit (which was only $125, mind you), and he just said... "Why!?"

Why not!?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnylaris*
> 
> Ugly stickers!


...?
wat?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jonnylaris*
> 
> Ugly stickers!
> 
> 
> 
> He's proud of his AMD Faildozer, don't bash on him.
Click to expand...

im proud that i dnt support the douchebag that is intel








but that is for another thread


----------



## kamikaze_

Intel #1, you know it!


----------



## jackofhearts495




----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ...?
> wat?
> im proud that i dnt support the douchebag that is intel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that is for another thread


why spend money on an inferior product ?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jonnylaris*
> 
> Ugly stickers!
> 
> 
> 
> He's proud of his AMD Faildozer, don't bash on him.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ...?
> wat?
> im proud that i dnt support the douchebag that is intel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that is for another thread
> 
> 
> 
> why spend money on an inferior product ?
Click to expand...

because it was literally half the cost of an i5 2500k
and because i have hope for pd


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ...?
> wat?
> im proud that i dnt support the douchebag that is intel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that is for another thread
> 
> 
> 
> why spend money on an inferior product ?
Click to expand...

So they can stockpile it for R&D and possibly kick Intel's a55 maybe? Without that inferior product do you think that Intel would be developing anything? They would have been satisfied with P4 if they ran AMD out of the market.









Just sayin.









But this IS the watercooling thread and not the AMD v Intel thread so can we get back to it or I gotta go over someplace an smack someone's mama?












~Ceadder


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> because it was literally half the cost of an i5 2500k
> and because i have hope for pd


Not bashing but what did you pay for your BD chip? My i5 2500k was $195 and some change brand new from Micro Center


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> because it was literally half the cost of an i5 2500k
> and because i have hope for pd
> 
> 
> 
> Not bashing but what did you pay for your BD chip? My i5 2500k was $195 and some change brand new from Micro Center
Click to expand...

I think he's allowing for the Mainboard as well as BD. That's my take on it anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## Buckley

Wow..That is nice, Paracord sleeve? Gave me some ideas +


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> because it was literally half the cost of an i5 2500k
> and because i have hope for pd
> 
> 
> 
> Not bashing but what did you pay for your BD chip? My i5 2500k was $195 and some change brand new from Micro Center
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think he's allowing for the Mainboard as well as BD. That's my take on it anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

nah
just the proc
neweggs are $240 and i dnt live closed enough to a microcenter to justify 5 hours driving and $25 gas to save $45
i picked it up for $120, shipped.
its running great @4.7GHz
my mainboard is a sabertooth 990FX


----------



## Seanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buckley*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow..That is nice, Paracord sleeve? Gave me some ideas +


That doesn't look like paracord sleeving to me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buckley*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow..That is nice, Paracord sleeve? Gave me some ideas +
> 
> 
> 
> That doesn't look like paracord sleeving to me.
Click to expand...

It's not, it's MDPC if the SATA sleeving is any indication.









Not sure my OCD could deal with the fittings and tubing behind the Mainboard tray but that system simply looks smashing.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/17650#post_16510031
more comments related to the cooling, not the stickers please?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/17650#post_16510031
> more comments related to the cooling, not the stickers please?


post better pics (in focus, maybe use a tripod) and you will get more comments.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/17650#post_16510031
> more comments related to the cooling, not the stickers please?


What's your temps like phillyd?









Oh an boy those stickers are ugly.







j/k, I don't do stickers but some people do. Not my place to tell people what they should or shouldn't do. Not on my case though. I've got a total of one and it's in a place that nobody sees until they stand over it.









~Ceadder


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> nah
> just the proc
> neweggs are $240 and i dnt live closed enough to a microcenter to justify 5 hours driving and $25 gas to save $45
> i picked it up for $120, shipped.
> its running great @4.7GHz
> my mainboard is a sabertooth 990FX


That is nice deal, where did you get an 8 core for $120?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/17650#post_16510031
> more comments related to the cooling, not the stickers please?


Where are the "more/better pics"?


----------



## Hydrored

I need everybody's opinion on the TJ11
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=292&area=en

I'm bored with my M10 and now will be my dedicated BOINC cruncher-

(now has 3 6970's)

I want something with a little more sex appeal that can fit a extended atx and at least 1080 720 of rad space.
Open to all suggestions


----------



## GoodInk

I'm not sure where you are going to put a 1080 rad in it, or are you saying 3 x 360's?


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I'm not sure where you are going to put a 1080 rad in it, or are you saying 3 x 360's?


I mean of total rad space so 540x2 or 360x3 .....


----------



## Ceadderman

Why not just get the bottom partition attachment and mod it to hold 2x360s'?

It's up to you of course but I would just get the addition and fill it with radiators.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

My work-in-progress, is a work-in-progress









Adding the start of my dedicated BOINC rig. Still need to mount some fans, the front rad and reservoir. Pump is ready to go.


----------



## lowfat

I definitely wouldn't go from a CaseLabs to a TJ11. M10 is a significantly better looking case. Not to mention it more than likely is a lot better built.


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why not just get the bottom partition attachment and mod it to hold 2x360s'?
> 
> It's up to you of course but I would just get the addition and fill it with radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I already have 3x360 in it. The case labs are all to square


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> The case labs are all to square


Add a pedestal and topper. Then it's very tall, and no longer square


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> The case labs are all to square
> 
> 
> 
> Add a pedestal and topper. Then it's very tall, and no longer square
Click to expand...

Yeah i already have the extended top with two 360's in it. The ped wouldnt really do anything for me


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> The case labs are all to square
> 
> 
> 
> Add a pedestal and topper. Then it's very tall, and no longer square
Click to expand...

This. Thanks for reminding me that it's called a Pedestal AB.









~Ceadder


----------



## skyn3t

Here is the final Product







hope you guys like it







i had done a lot this weekend and i still have one more mod to make if i have time to get this done before FEB 22 guys but here is the final product. Tomorrow I'm going to work on all the part's list used on this build and tools hope you guys had enjoyed it like me














well I'm done for today see you guys tomorrow .PEACE OUT CUZ IM OUT









Perfect fit







with right measurements










Inside front grill red










Now looks the outside edges


















Just got this mpuise today wife present's and she really enjoy every work i had done on this build.










Here is the picture that everyone wants to see










More pictures with natural light will come before Feb2. More degails. right. below. In my work log


----------



## Ceadderman

That looks sooooooooooo smecsy Skyn3t.









~Ceadder


----------



## ikem

psu was doa....

waiting on that, and this rig will be running... finally...

First water cooling venture. Still debating on getting some softer tubing...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> That is nice deal, where did you get an 8 core for $120?


i had it in my sig and posted all over looking and a guy pm'd me (brand new member, so i was very skeptical) and he put it on ebay and gave me the link.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Where are the "more/better pics"?


here












sorry for the odd rotations


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What's your temps like phillyd?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh an boy those stickers are ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k, I don't do stickers but some people do. Not my place to tell people what they should or shouldn't do. Not on my case though. I've got a total of one and it's in a place that nobody sees until they stand over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


lol and not good, hwmonitor freaks out and has random temps of 72+ for a split second but chills at like 45-55 core. and AI Suite II reads 55ish consistently.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> I need everybody's opinion on the TJ11
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=292&area=en
> I'm bored with my M10 and now will be my dedicated BOINC cruncher-
> 
> (now has 3 6970's)
> I want something with a little more sex appeal that can fit a extended atx and at least 1080 720 of rad space.
> Open to all suggestions


thats exactly why i would never buy the case lbs case since they are so huge there is really no challange, i think we all love the chaallenge of taking a case that is not really ment for crazy WC and making it a work of art and one of a kind

there is just so much room in those case lab cases that makes things too easy, and true modders are not into that


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> thats exactly why i would never buy the case lbs case since they are so huge there is really no challange, i think we all love the chaallenge of taking a case that is not really ment for crazy WC and making it a work of art and one of a kind
> there is just so much room in those case lab cases that makes things too easy, and true modders are not into that


I personally think they need to make an "M4"


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Here is the picture that everyone wants to see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pictures with natural light will come before Feb2. More degails. right. below. In my work log


That's such a clean build my friend. It's people like you that are encouraging me to swap out my case for something bigger and better before the end of the year... And I'm not even finished with my build.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice build skyn3t , very original and well done


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> thats exactly why i would never buy the case lbs case since they are so huge there is really no challange, i think we all love the chaallenge of taking a case that is not really ment for crazy WC and making it a work of art and one of a kind
> there is just so much room in those case lab cases that makes things too easy, and true modders are not into that


I feel the exact opposite I have yet to see a case from CL that I felt was big enough







and so my pc will stay sprawled out on a desk







we are all modders just in different forms


----------



## jackofhearts495

I'd greatly appreciate it if everyone would fill out an entry in the OCN Tubing Database. Doesn't matter if your loop is clean or cloudy, we're just looking for info









Thanks!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I'd greatly appreciate it if everyone would fill out an entry in the OCN Tubing Database. Doesn't matter if your loop is clean or cloudy, we're just looking for info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


posted just for you


----------



## sivarthcaz

Here's what I've done. Recently decided to try out the NZXT Switch 810. Only thing I would like to do is sleeve the PSU, but haven't really found the time and don't have the materials to do so at the moment. I don't have any problems the way it is now though anyways. Pictures aren't the greatest due to low light, but I tried


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sivarthcaz*
> 
> Here's what I've done. Recently decided to try out the NZXT Switch 810. Only thing I would like to do is sleeve the PSU, but haven't really found the time and don't have the materials to do so at the moment. I don't have any problems the way it is now though anyways. Pictures aren't the greatest due to low light, but I tried


How is the air flow on top with the vents closed?


----------



## thfallen

Its ugly right now the will get new pictures when i get my new motherboard and actually try and put my case back together.
and yes it would not boot in the picture if anyone makes that comment.


----------



## sivarthcaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> How is the air flow on top with the vents closed?


It cuts it down quite a bit, but comes out of the mesh on the sides lightly (if you look closely enough you can see the mesh I'm talking about). I basically have it open when I use my computer, and close it when I turned it off (which is rare anyways). I'm going to turn the top and bottoms into intake once I pick up a few filters for the top radiator. I'm going to assume this will harm it even more with the vent closed, but we'll see.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> thats exactly why i would never buy the case lbs case since they are so huge there is really no challange, i think we all love the chaallenge of taking a case that is not really ment for crazy WC and making it a work of art and one of a kind
> there is just so much room in those case lab cases that makes things too easy, and true modders are not into that
> 
> 
> 
> I personally think they need to make an "M4"
Click to expand...

Actually, I think they are coming out with an "M4".









~Ceadder


----------



## TwentyCent

That would be "Merlin"? Any news on this?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> That would be "Merlin"? Any news on this?


Not to my knowledge. Thought they would have it out soon after they leaked the initial news, but then nothing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Jim says the "big dogs" are watching, likely referring to Antec, NZXT, Cooler Master, Thermaltake, etc., so he's playing it close to the vest this time with the photos/details. Can you really blame him?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Jim says the "big dogs" are watching, likely referring to Antec, NZXT, Cooler Master, Thermaltake, etc., so he's playing it close to the vest this time with the photos/details. Can you really blame him?


They gonna steal his ideas? Or are they just scared


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thfallen*
> 
> -snip-
> Its ugly right now the will get new pictures when i get my new motherboard and actually try and put my case back together.
> and yes it would not boot in the picture if anyone makes that comment.


you should cut a hole in the top of the case to route the tubes through.it will help the tubing not kink like your is and it will help it look neater also. if you have any other questions though you should swing by the Lanboy Club thats in my sig. just mentioning it since we are a helpful bunch there and you might get some extra ideas for your case.

other than that it looks good with a bit of clean-up


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Jim says the "big dogs" are watching, likely referring to Antec, NZXT, Cooler Master, Thermaltake, etc., so he's playing it close to the vest this time with the photos/details. Can you really blame him?


Nope can't blame him one bit. Trust no one in this business. But the manu he really should be watching out for is Mountain Mods, since they do something similar to what he does already.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I'm surprised non of the big companies have stole...I mean "borrowed" this from "mick64":





"Proteus" by mick64: http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2011/02/08/phobya-design-a-case-competition/6


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm surprised non of the big companies have stole...I mean "borrowed" this from "mick64":
> 
> 
> "Proteus" by mick64: http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2011/02/08/phobya-design-a-case-competition/6


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Does anyone know what happened to that competition? This is the closest we have to an update: http://forums.bit-tech.net/showpost.php?p=2929410&postcount=252 I mean, it can't take a YEAR to pick/announce a winner, right?


----------



## manu97416

What's the best case for wc ?
For example can fit 1x 480mm and 2x 360 mm
Has a big window and has cable management options like the 800D


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> What's the best case for wc ?
> For example can fit 1x 480mm and 2x 360 mm
> Has a big window and has cable management options like the 800D


Why does one need a 480 and 2x 360s?

At that point you're probably looking for Case Labs, Mountain Mods, TJ11, etc.

I use a Switch 810 with a 360 and a 240.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Does anyone know what happened to that competition? This is the closest we have to an update: http://forums.bit-tech.net/showpost.php?p=2929410&postcount=252 I mean, it can't take a YEAR to pick/announce a winner, right?


I remember that, I still have a tab saved from Stage 2. I think they are about to release a stripped down version of mick64's that holds a 1080 rad.







And a SFF case that is WC'ing friendly





Link to the sneak peek

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=223950


----------



## Infernosaint

Make room for 2x 240 rads in the top, and I might get the SFF case.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm surprised non of the big companies have stole...I mean "borrowed" this from "mick64":
> 
> 
> "Proteus" by mick64: http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2011/02/08/phobya-design-a-case-competition/6


Those cases are ridiculous! I want... now..


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No one noticed my post earlier? NZXT Switch 810. A little pricey, but fits a 360/420 up top w/ push/pull, a 240 at the bottom w/ push/pull, and a 120/140 on the back.


I noticed the post, it's a great option


----------



## Ceadderman

It could be me but those systems are so clean they look like they're rendered.









~Ceadder


----------



## iama842

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It could be me but those systems are so clean they look like they're rendered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


They *are* rendered.


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> I need everybody's opinion on the TJ11
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=292&area=en
> 
> I'm bored with my M10 and now will be my dedicated BOINC cruncher-
> *snip*
> (now has 3 6970's)
> 
> I want something with a little more sex appeal that can fit a extended atx and at least 1080 720 of rad space.
> Open to all suggestions


I made my mind up-
Modded TJ07
reverse atx
back plate
exterior powder coated white
360 in the roof
480 in the basement
mid plate powder white
clear window
I know this build has been done before but the TJ07 is sexy. I have to leave for work next Friday and by the time I get back everything will be here.

Cheers


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It could be me but those systems are so clean they look like they're rendered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


it was a case design contest, they are not yet real


----------



## PCModderMike

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*






Wow that looks fantastic







What coolant is that, whole vitamin D or 2%?? Hehehe







Just messing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> What's the best case for wc ?
> For example can fit 1x 480mm and 2x 360 mm
> Has a big window and has cable management options like the 800D


Danger Den Double wide. Sadly, most of the cases that have these capabilites have little to no actual cable management. You can always buy cable-tie anchors from ebay for cheap. That's what I'm doing with my current build and I've done with my previous MM Ext. Ascension.

Case Labs does a pretty good job at cable management and there's lots of options and models to choose from btw.


----------



## SheaGA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> I made my mind up-
> Modded TJ07
> reverse atx
> back plate
> exterior powder coated white
> 360 in the roof
> 480 in the basement
> mid plate powder white
> clear window
> I know this build has been done before but the TJ07 is sexy. I have to leave for work next Friday and by the time I get back everything will be here.
> Cheers


take from me you'll love it. i have had my for 2 years now went thru 3 MB upgrades havent even thought about switching the case.


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SheaGA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> I made my mind up-
> Modded TJ07
> reverse atx
> back plate
> exterior powder coated white
> 360 in the roof
> 480 in the basement
> mid plate powder white
> clear window
> I know this build has been done before but the TJ07 is sexy. I have to leave for work next Friday and by the time I get back everything will be here.
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> take from me you'll love it. i have had my for 2 years now went thru 3 MB upgrades havent even thought about switching the case.
Click to expand...

Awesome! I already bit the bullet today so when I get back I have a pc to build. Here is a pic i found (not mine)


----------



## Eyedea

Really lovin that FT02 there. Will be doing mine soon. What size tubing did you use? Just wondering if i could do that with my 7/16" tubing


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Danger Den Double wide. Sadly, most of the cases that have these capabilites have little to no actual cable management. You can always buy cable-tie anchors from ebay for cheap. That's what I'm doing with my current build and I've done with my previous MM Ext. Ascension.
> Case Labs does a pretty good job at cable management and there's lots of options and models to choose from btw.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> What's the best case for wc ?
> For example can fit 1x 480mm and 2x 360 mm
> Has a big window and has cable management options like the 800D


Little Devil LD-V8
2x 480 in the bottom, 480 on top!
Got good cable managment, got a window to show off ur sweet hardware and it got pretty kewl look aswell!


----------



## driftingforlife

My build log and LD owners club in my sig if you want to look at a V8.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Really lovin that FT02 there. Will be doing mine soon. What size tubing did you use? Just wondering if i could do that with my 7/16" tubing


Are you referring to mine? The one w/ the tubing behind the motherboard tray? The tubing behind the tray is 3/8" ID 5/8" OD. I don't think anything thicker will fit.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Looks like some of my water cooling parts arrived today.

I can't believe how amazing this stuff looks in person. Great quality, and nice to look at. Kind of a shame to have it tucked away behind a plexiglass window...







The 6 pack of black chrome Monsoon compression fittings (1/2 ID - 3/4 OD) look fantastic, as do the acrylic/nickel plated EK R4E blocks, and acrylic EK LGA 2011 block. I'm still trying to decide on a reservoir, but it looks like I might go with the dual bay Fusion res/pump setup, just to keep the overall build clean looking.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> My build log and LD owners club in my sig if you want to look at a V8.


The only "problem" with LD cases is the price plus the cost of shipping overseas to North America. They are wicked cases though


----------



## fakeblood

final got my feet wet


----------



## jackofhearts495

Fake, that rig is absolutely stunning. I love how the thermal armor on the Sabertooth looks with that case and the rest of the setup.


----------



## sli_shroom

damn nice build fake. you had to work to get it all in there


----------



## wermad

woohoo









mb and mb block came in today







. Pics will be up tonight


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> final got my feet wet
> *snip*


Props to you sir







lookin good.


----------



## fakeblood

Thanks guys, finally glad to have my first proper loop. Will look at getting some vanilla sands sleeving from mdpc for a final touch


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> final got my feet wet


My only concern with this build: Why are the PSU ends of the cables not sleeved correctly?

Aside from that, absolutely beautiful


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Hey guys, my first ever loop is coming in 3 days. How do you flush your watercooling parts? With hot water?

Will hot water from the shower do?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Hey guys, my first ever loop is coming in 3 days. How do you flush your watercooling parts? With hot water?
> Will hot water from the shower do?


Most will suggest boiling water and multiple rinses (4-5). I just ran distilled water and called it a day, but I'm lazy. Haven't had any issues though.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Do i run it through the pump+res? I am using the bay res with MCP 655.

Or do I just flush the rad, tubing and block?

Will hot water from the shower do? Or must I really boil water from the kettle and pour it through the tubing.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> My only concern with this build: Why are the PSU ends of the cables not sleeved correctly?
> Aside from that, absolutely beautiful


yeah miscalculated the lengths of sleeving. Noob mistake. Will get around to making a fix for it. It cant be seen once the side panel is on however


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Do i run it through the pump+res? I am using the bay res with MCP 655.
> Or do I just flush the rad, tubing and block?
> Will hot water from the shower do? Or must I really boil water from the kettle and pour it through the tubing.


You'll have a hard time running it through the pump without it being on







You can wash the res, but I don't think a whole lot of stuff is in there.

Flush the rad(s) and block(s).

No. The reason boiling water is recommended is because it separates out the sediments and nasty things that are normally in tap water (also the metals and bacteria), or maybe that's distilling... Maybe you boil distilled water. Not sure, I would just say either pour distilled water through it or boiling water. (I believe vinegar is another option, but that may be simply to remove dye stains).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> yeah miscalculated the lengths of sleeving. Noob mistake. Will get around to making a fix for it. It cant be seen once the side panel is on however


Ah, mine looks worse, I wouldn't bother, lol. You could actually paint the cables themselves black so it blends


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Dang, time to stock up on em distilled water I guess.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well you could be OCD like me and boil Distilled. Of course I hope to be getting my Radiator VERY soon. This has been a very long race and I see myself crumpled into a teary eyed ball at the end, from all the joy and exhaustion of a marathon runner.









Still got some other stuff to do yet but once the Radiator is gottan and flushed, I'm gon be exhausted.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Wow, these are some smexxy backplates from Watercool HK:


----------



## btwalter

Here's some updated pics of mine for those that haven't followed my Switch 810 build log.










The Anti-kinks probably arent even needed.

Next step is to get a 140 rad and add the 6870's into the loop.

I'll be draining it this week though, going to paint the radiator to match the case, along with the fans to match the color theme. Plus... my dumb ass forgot to flush the block, and rad. So, now that it's been running distilled for a couple of days, it should be nice and clean.


----------



## manu97416

Is it possible to get a bigger window for the tj11 ?


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm surprised non of the big companies have stole...I mean "borrowed" this from "mick64":
> 
> 
> "Proteus" by mick64: http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2011/02/08/phobya-design-a-case-competition/6


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*


exactly my reaction


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> exactly my reaction


Glad you quoted that, made me laugh again, lol.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> exactly my reaction


Same. I want that case for sure.


----------



## Angrybutcher

My BOINCer is tubed, though I hope to "fix it" at some point.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Do i run it through the pump+res? I am using the bay res with MCP 655.
> 
> Or do I just flush the rad, tubing and block?
> 
> Will hot water from the shower do? Or must I really boil water from the kettle and pour it through the tubing.


I use Martin's way, but I just use electrical tape on the faucet. I will drain the rads through a white paper towel(a coffee filter will work too) and to check if there is any discoloration or crap left in it after 30 mins of flushing. When I'm happy with the flush I run distilled water through it 5 times. Household water pressure can exceed 50psi, this is more than enough pressure to cause permanent damage to radiators or blocks if you blocked the outlet port or ran the flow up too high. This is why I use tape.


*Household water pressure can exceed 50psi, this is more than enough pressure to cause permanent damage to radiators or blocks if you blocked the outlet port or ran the flow up too high. This is why I use tape.*

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> My BOINCer is tubed, though I hope to "fix it" at some point.


Top of your case looks warped..


----------



## axipher

Hey guys, so I have my RAD's, block, and pump in, waiting for my pump-top, reservoir, kill coil and fittings which are all in the mail right now.

So all that's left is getting some mounting screws, and some tubing.

I'm hoping to get something locally from Home Depot of Canadian tire, shipping is getting to be too much on medium or larger items.

So any recommendations on tubing?

Here's a list of my parts so far:
- MCP350
- EK pump top with G1/4 threads
- Swiftech Microres
- Silver Kill Coil
- EK Supreme HF copper
- RX240
- RS240
- Black Ice Pro 120


----------



## sloppyjoe123

What type of fittings? Get tubing that fits those,


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> What type of fittings? Get tubing that fits those,


Sorry, 1/2" barbs and I'll be running just distilled water.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Sorry, 1/2" barbs and I'll be running just distilled water.


I use this and haven't any issues for the past year.

http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82_84&products_id=588


----------



## Tipless

update:


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Top of your case looks warped..


I just used the bottom of a side panel to check and it is sagging about 1-2mm in the very center, but the edges are not. It does not affect the top bezel's mounting so I'm not concerned with it









It was likely caused by me rather than the radiator mounted up top. As I'm doing this sitting on my kitchen floor (I really need to buy a house), I've found myself pushing off the case when I stand up lol


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Sorry, 1/2" barbs and I'll be running just distilled water.
> 
> 
> 
> I use this and haven't any issues for the past year.
> 
> http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82_84&products_id=588
Click to expand...

Hmm, I think 8 ft is enough, what's the color like on that tube after a year?

I'm worried that because I have a Black and Red build that there might be a bluish tint to that tube.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Sorry, 1/2" barbs and I'll be running just distilled water.
> 
> 
> 
> I use this and haven't any issues for the past year.
> 
> http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82_84&products_id=588
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmm, I think 8 ft is enough, what's the color like on that tube after a year?
> 
> I'm worried that because I have a Black and Red build that there might be a bluish tint to that tube.
Click to expand...

As far as I know there isn't bluish tint to the black tubing unless you have UV/Blue/Purple lighting inside the case. Which is reflection more than tint imho.









@tipless... that fishnet stocking paint job is incredible dude. Looks awesome.









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Didn't take me long to do a mock up install on these last night after work. Once I finish flushing the rads, I'll get started on flushing these babies as well. Looks like I have my weekend cut out for me.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> As far as I know there isn't bluish tint to the black tubing unless you have UV/Blue/Purple lighting inside the case. Which is reflection more than tint imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @tipless... that fishnet stocking paint job is incredible dude. Looks awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks man! it took some working but it turned out nice. now lets see if i win MOTM competition


----------



## Shogon

wooooooot!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> As far as I know there isn't bluish tint to the black tubing unless you have UV/Blue/Purple lighting inside the case. Which is reflection more than tint imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the info, I might add that tubing to my list of possibilities.


----------



## tuffarts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, these are some smexxy backplates from Watercool HK:


I want this in a GTX480 please


----------



## brownieapple

to bad they don't make backplates for the gtx570 HD :/ it would be nice to have some.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's too bad they don't make back plates for A LOT of popular cards. 5770 was a very popular card and still is. Still no back plate. You gotta make one yourself which is fine with me but a piece of plexi won't aid in cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## kamikaze_

The card has been out for over a year now, I had the GTX 580/570 block since November of last year because I could not work over Christmas and my money went into my family's gifts.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> to bad they don't make backplates for the gtx570 HD :/ it would be nice to have some.


They do. The backplate fits both GTX570/580. And V2 as well.

It seems they are also releasing a full-nickel block to accompany the backplate. A little late to the party, but puts any other block out there to shame [yes, including EK's].


----------



## sockpirate

Ugh i have that water cooling bug so bad right now, these are my plans for my check at the end of the month + my tax return!

NZXT Switch 810

Bitspower MCP 655 Mod Kit

Bitspower MCP 655 Mod Top

Corsair Vengeance White 16gb (4x4)

Will be painting my GT 1200s white also.

x2 90 degree bitspower ultimate matte black compression fittings
x2 45 degree bitspower ultimate matte black compression fittings










Keep an eye out on the market place for my Current RAM config, and test bench being sold pretty cheap !


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> It seems they are also releasing a full-nickel block to accompany the backplate. A little late to the party, but puts any other block out there to shame [yes, including EK's].


You have no idea how how happy that makes me!









I've had my eye on the HK 580 block for a while, but I've been a little hesitant due to the visible copper. A nickel version would be perfect for my silver/black theme.


----------



## wermad

meh, 3/8x1/2 tube can't bend that well enough to loop the cpu to the two mb blocks







. Ordered some 90°s


----------



## Angrybutcher

Just make it a loop


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Just make it a loop


Sadly, its not possible, 3/8x1/2 tube is just not robust enough to bend. Phobya fittings are pretty inexpensive. I had to pick up a new backplate anyways so I just went ahead and ordered a few.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Just make it a loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, its not possible, 3/8x1/2 tube is just not robust enough to bend. Phobya fittings are pretty inexpensive. I had to pick up a new backplate anyways so I just went ahead and ordered a few.
Click to expand...

Have you tried boiling water dipping the tubing, inserting rope and bending the tubing to your needed arc and then running cold water over it? Someone posted this trick in the last few pages and it seems like it would work pretty well for things like what you got goin on.









i've got to get some 5/8 7/16" inch for mine to make it work properly.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

Ceadder, just saw your Location and that is pretty close to the truth. Just when you think you're done, you go and change more!! lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you tried boiling water dipping the tubing, inserting rope and bending the tubing to your needed arc and then running cold water over it? Someone posted this trick in the last few pages and it seems like it would work pretty well for things like what you got goin on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've got to get some 5/8 7/16" inch for mine to make it work properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, tried that and heating with a heat gun (lightly). The bend is too much for this smaller diameter tube that if kinks and flattens.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you tried boiling water dipping the tubing, inserting rope and bending the tubing to your needed arc and then running cold water over it? Someone posted this trick in the last few pages and it seems like it would work pretty well for things like what you got goin on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've got to get some 5/8 7/16" inch for mine to make it work properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, tried that and heating with a heat gun (lightly). The bend is too much for this smaller diameter tube that if kinks and flattens.
Click to expand...

Try boiling water. I bet you have better luck with that. Even with the 3/8'ths tubing.









Or are you such a man you don't know how to boil water? Of course it could be a phobia you picked up from water cooling.









@Angrybutcher...







Nothing ever stays the same on my information sheet. Just when you think u gots me figgered out, BAM! time for a change.









~Ceadder


----------



## sockpirate

I am super sad right now realizing that i would like the look of silver compression fittings on black tubing







daaaang if i hadent spent so much on matte black bits power fittings i would be going that route right now....just thinking out loud lol what do you guys think ?


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, tried that and heating with a heat gun (lightly). The bend is too much for this smaller diameter tube that if kinks and flattens.


I had same problem with tight bends from CPU to MB as I use 1/2 " OD tube, I used a couple of these reusable clamps on the tubing and works pretty dam good. It allows the tube to keep its shape and zero kinking. Might be something to consider. Not sure what size tubing ur using but just get the right size, bonus is they are cheap as chips and u can route tubing any way you want. Just a suggestion.



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10602/ex-tub-656/Steel_Spring_Hose_Clamp_for_12_OD_Tubing_-_Black.html?tl=g30c289s721


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> I had same problem with tight bends from CPU to MB as I use 1/2 " OD tube, I used a couple of these reusable clamps on the tubing and works pretty dam good. It allows the tube to keep its shape and zero kinking. Might be something to consider. Not sure what size tubing ur using but just get the right size, bonus is they are cheap as chips and u can route tubing any way you want. Just a suggestion.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10602/ex-tub-656/Steel_Spring_Hose_Clamp_for_12_OD_Tubing_-_Black.html?tl=g30c289s721


Thanks mate







. I'm going with clear tube and so clamps are really not what I'm looking for to solve this issue. I went ahead and placed a small order for some 90° compression fittings from ppcs.com. That is an interesting solution though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> I am super sad right now realizing that i would like the look of silver compression fittings on black tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> daaaang if i hadent spent so much on matte black bits power fittings i would be going that route right now....just thinking out loud lol what do you guys think ?


How about white tube with the matte black fittings? Better yet, clear tube + Ice Dragon milky coolant and the black fittings


----------



## bundymania




----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*




As for the black fittings with white tubing, that is my current color scheme, i just keep seeing black tubing with silver fittings and it looks so bosss!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> 
> As for the black fittings with white tubing, that is my current color scheme, i just keep seeing black tubing with silver fittings and it looks so bosss!


^ that


----------



## Ceadderman

Wish I could find those Red BP angle fittings. PPCs' doesn't carry em an I aven't seen anyone else that does either. Would so love to use those under my Black Nickel Comps.









@sockpirate... if you want silver just sell your current comps and get the monsoon chrome fittings. Problem solved.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wish I could find those Red BP angle fittings. PPCs' doesn't carry em an I aven't seen anyone else that does either. Would so love to use those under my Black Nickel Comps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @sockpirate... if you want silver just sell your current comps and get the monsoon chrome fittings. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


A few people on here have ordered the red fittings directly from Bitspower. They shipping seems pricey though


----------



## sockpirate

Moving all of this into a White Switch 810 at the end of the month, along with a few other bits and pieces like a BP mod top and mod kit for the pump.


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> I had same problem with tight bends from CPU to MB as I use 1/2 " OD tube, I used a couple of these reusable clamps on the tubing and works pretty dam good. It allows the tube to keep its shape and zero kinking. Might be something to consider. Not sure what size tubing ur using but just get the right size, bonus is they are cheap as chips and u can route tubing any way you want. Just a suggestion.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10602/ex-tub-656/Steel_Spring_Hose_Clamp_for_12_OD_Tubing_-_Black.html?tl=g30c289s721


I've had a UD7, if this image can help, I made some calls less complicated!


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> I am super sad right now realizing that i would like the look of silver compression fittings on black tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> daaaang if i hadent spent so much on matte black bits power fittings i would be going that route right now....just thinking out loud lol what do you guys think ?


This exactly. First few WC builds I used the matte black BP compressions with black tubing. The things that bugged me the most was the gold BP lettering on top and the matte black wears off easily. With the silver shining fittings I've used on my past two builds (current one is with black tubing) and I have yet to have any of these wear or chip off. The silver shining + black tubing is definitely my favorite setup so far and looks super clean







. Here is my build so far, sorry for the crappy phone pics.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Ceadderman I think I found a fitting that might work


----------



## Thingamajig

Damn, i bet there's alot of money on that table in those fittings.

Here's a slightly updated Umbra, with tinted side panel and a few cold cathodes:




























As you can see, it's a very cluttered look in this case. Not very photogenic or clean looking but nonetheless, gets the job done. I would highly recommend everyone tint their sidepanel though, really takes the distracting dazzle out of any lights, plus it hides any scratch marks or fingerprints on the window. Overall, a 10 minute mod worth doing.


----------



## Raul-7

Those aged-bronze fittings look like they belong in a bathroom fixture.


----------



## Attacktrak

My Wife's System










And This is My System RIG

Venezuelan RIG, I hope you like it


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated


my link doesnt work :'(


----------



## Attacktrak

This one is in progress to Wife











More of the same


----------



## Mazda6i07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mazda6i07*


That, lol.

Somewhere around $1-1500 in fittings?


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> my link doesnt work :'(


fixed?


----------



## Cord78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*



I want so bad! need a towel too.


----------



## RushMore1205

i never understood why does it matter what color the orings are, no one ever seems them anyway???


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> 
> My Wife's System
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And This is My System RIG
> Venezuelan RIG, I hope you like it


Awesome rig.

What kind of fan is that in the back of the case? (the red one)


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> i never understood why does it matter what color the orings are, no one ever seems them anyway???


I think they might be different thickness or material or something. I would never care if that makes you feel better


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> This one is in progress to Wife


modded Thermaltake Armor?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> fixed?


fixed! _b


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> i never understood why does it matter what color the orings are, no one ever seems them anyway???
> 
> 
> 
> I think they might be different thickness or material or something. I would never care if that makes you feel better
Click to expand...

Nope, if you get at just the right angle you can see them. Some have OCN that bad


----------



## TwentyCent

I think you can quite clearly see them through acrylic blocks (say a DDC pump for example). But that's pretty much it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> i never understood why does it matter what color the orings are, no one ever seems them anyway???


Sometimes you can see them







But in most cases, you are right, you can't see them.

Sold my cpu block to MyBadOmen for his beautiful build. So I'm in the market for new cpu block. I got a few in mind but I want to keep my budget to ~$50. I'm eying a few blocks off ebay. The market had an all Cu ek block but it sold


----------



## phillyd

getting 2 COUGAR CF-V12HPB PWM fans tomorrow.
after i receive my NZXT LED light strip, and finish cable management, i will post pics.
i will also be getting the silver faceplate and the blue LED for my res soon








any ideas for a cool looking coolant *additive*?
im thinking UV blue or maybe a milky white, but i cant find any inexpensive additives.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> getting 2 COUGAR CF-V12HPB PWM fans tomorrow.
> after i receive my NZXT LED light strip, and finish cable management, i will post pics.
> i will also be getting the silver faceplate and the blue LED for my res soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any ideas for a cool looking coolant *additive*?
> im thinking UV blue or maybe a milky white, but i cant find any inexpensive additives.


super coolant. its UV reactive green and it is safe on acrylic and can be had at any autoparts store


----------



## Stormblitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thingamajig*
> 
> Damn, i bet there's alot of money on that table in those fittings.
> Here's a slightly updated Umbra, with tinted side panel and a few cold cathodes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it's a very cluttered look in this case. Not very photogenic or clean looking but nonetheless, gets the job done. I would highly recommend everyone tint their sidepanel though, really takes the distracting dazzle out of any lights, plus it hides any scratch marks or fingerprints on the window. Overall, a 10 minute mod worth doing.


Did you order that side panel directly from coolermaster? They must have updated the design because the acrylic window is bolted in the inside of the panel. The one I ordered last year has the window on the outside of the side panel.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stormblitz*
> 
> Did you order that side panel directly from coolermaster? They must have updated the design because the acrylic window is bolted in the inside of the panel. The one I ordered last year has the window on the outside of the side panel.


Mine was purchased in January and it had the window bolted from the inside. I bought it off amazon. It is an awesome little case.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine was purchased in January and it had the window bolted from the inside. I bought it off amazon. It is an awesome little case.


i know i love these cases i have one for my server but i now need something that holds more then 6 drives, so I'm thinking of putting it together with a gtx590 for my garage, with WC, I'm building a racing cockpit for my logitech g27 and NVidia Surround, so i can play racing games with friends when we hang out and drink, it will be like an arcade


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> i know i love these cases i have one for my server but i now need something that holds more then 6 drives, so I'm thinking of putting it together with a gtx590 for my garage, with WC, I'm building a racing cockpit for my logitech g27 and NVidia Surround, so i can play racing games with friends when we hang out and drink, it will be like an arcade


Can I be your friend?









Lol, besides the cross-country thing


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> i never understood why does it matter what color the orings are, no one ever seems them anyway???


You can see them through plexy tops and maybe it´s because of small optical differences between some bp series like the matt carbon and matt black stuff (red and green o-rings)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine was purchased in January and it had the window bolted from the inside. I bought it off amazon. It is an awesome little case.
> 
> 
> 
> i know i love these cases i have one for my server but i now need something that holds more then 6 drives, so I'm thinking of putting it together with a gtx590 for my garage, with WC, I'm building a racing cockpit for my logitech g27 and NVidia Surround, so i can play racing games with friends when we hang out and drink, it will be like an arcade
Click to expand...

Rush I know you're gonna invite me during Football season. One of these days I hope to migrate south to take in a game or two. I haven't seen a live game since Super Bowl XIX. Gonna definitely get down there when the new Stadium is completed.









Oh yeah, I can see the Oring when I'm looking for them. Soon as my set wears out I'll get Red ones. None of mine match at the moment.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> any ideas for a cool looking coolant *additive*?
> im thinking UV blue or maybe a milky white, but i cant find any inexpensive additives.


Mayhem's aurora fluid looks really, really cool









Though it's technically only for "showing off", or something to that effect.


----------



## Thingamajig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stormblitz*
> 
> Did you order that side panel directly from coolermaster? They must have updated the design because the acrylic window is bolted in the inside of the panel. The one I ordered last year has the window on the outside of the side panel.


I did order mine seperately yeah, directly from coolermaster.

I never knew they had ones with the window outside the case, bit odd.


----------



## Attacktrak

AeroCool RS12 Carbon Fiber Edition:thumb:


----------



## Attacktrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timechange01*
> 
> Awesome rig.
> What kind of fan is that in the back of the case? (the red one)


Its the Aerocool R12 Carbon Edition









http://www.amazon.com/AeroCool-RS12-Carbon-Fiber-Ed/dp/B002HTX7KM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1330006962&sr=8-4


----------



## Attacktrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> modded Thermaltake Armor?


Nope, it's the Kandalf Without the front doors


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> getting 2 COUGAR CF-V12HPB PWM fans tomorrow.
> after i receive my NZXT LED light strip, and finish cable management, i will post pics.
> i will also be getting the silver faceplate and the blue LED for my res soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any ideas for a cool looking coolant *additive*?
> im thinking UV blue or maybe a milky white, but i cant find any inexpensive additives.
> 
> 
> 
> super coolant. its UV reactive green and it is safe on acrylic and can be had at any autoparts store
Click to expand...

id love to but im using whtie and blue
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> any ideas for a cool looking coolant *additive*?
> im thinking UV blue or maybe a milky white, but i cant find any inexpensive additives.
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhem's aurora fluid looks really, really cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though it's technically only for "showing off", or something to that effect.
Click to expand...

ill look at it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> i know i love these cases i have one for my server but i now need something that holds more then 6 drives, so I'm thinking of putting it together with a gtx590 for my garage, with WC, I'm building a racing cockpit for my logitech g27 and NVidia Surround, so i can play racing games with friends when we hang out and drink, it will be like an arcade


1.5gb for Surround? Better off throwing in a pair of 3gb 580s, two 6970s, or a 6990.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 1.5gb for Surround? Better off throwing in a pair of 3gb 580s, two 6970s, or a 6990.


Plus one on this. 1.5 is barely enough memory and can't run most games at high or ultimate. You need at least 2gb cards


----------



## nickbaldwin86

ya 3GB... i saw around 2.4GB used on big BF3 maps:thumb:


----------



## TwentyCent

So what's the consensus on neoprene tubing? Any good?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> So what's the consensus on neoprene tubing? Any good?


+1

I found some I might be able to use for my loop locally.


----------



## Tipless

i saw somewhere that the tygon tubing was the best against kinks but rumors can be misleading. i just but some pvc tubing and have had no issues with mine:
here


----------



## losttsol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> i saw somewhere that the tygon tubing was the best against kinks but rumors can be misleading. i just but some pvc tubing and have had no issues with mine:
> here


Primoflex Pro LRT is a far cry from generic tubing. It is $2 a foot for a reason. I would go with Tygon for clear tubing though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> So what's the consensus on neoprene tubing? Any good?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> +1
> I found some I might be able to use for my loop locally.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> i saw somewhere that the tygon tubing was the best against kinks but rumors can be misleading. i just but some pvc tubing and have had no issues with mine:
> here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *losttsol*
> 
> Primoflex Pro LRT is a far cry from generic tubing. It is $2 a foot for a reason. I would go with Tygon for clear tubing though.


Primochill is having issues with their tube and developing plasticize on the inside, most notably the clear tube. There have been reports or other tube makers as well.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/severe-plasticizer-in-primochill-lrt

The clear tube that seems to be holding quite well is the Tygon "Clear Beverage" tube. For colored tube, i haven't heard not too many concerns with the other makers (Feser, Danger Den, etc.).

Here's an ebay seller on the Tygon clear tube:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130631942804?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## TwentyCent

I was originally speaking about black neoprene tube...like this one...


----------



## Tipless

holy expensive batman... well i guess its not much more than what i spent per foot on mine...

and the funny thing about tubes plasticizing... they are all made out of some type of plastic lol

plasticizer definition


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> I was originally speaking about black neoprene tube...like this one...


That price is insane for Norprene. The only reason it's that high, is the Swiftech name and the anti-kink coil. That's all the "sleeving" is, anti-kink coil.

Here it is by the foot. Two 2ft strips would be $6


----------



## TwentyCent

Cool, tanks for the link.

Would neoprene be safe with say Mayhem's pastel? And how does neoprene age? Good or bad?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> I was originally speaking about black neoprene tube...like this one...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That price is insane for Norprene. The only reason it's that high, is the Swiftech name and the anti-kink coil. That's all the "sleeving" is, anti-kink coil.
> 
> Here it is by the foot. Two 2ft strips would be $6
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Cool, tanks for the link.
> 
> Would neoprene be safe with say Mayhem's pastel? And how does neoprene age? Good or bad?


I'm a little baffled by Norprene vs Neoprene, they are the same thing right?


----------



## Angrybutcher

I could be completely wrong, but I believe they're essentially the same, just different manufacturer names. The only reference I can find, is Tygon saying their Norprene is better than Neoprene.


----------



## TwentyCent

Actually, silly me, I simly read neoprene instead of norprene...









Here is what I found about it (here):
Quote:


> Norprene® Chemical Tubing is a high performance co-extruded product specifically formulated to provide an ideal combination of chemical resistance and pump life. Its inert ultra-smooth plasticizer-free bore resists the absorption/adsorption of aqueous fluids while the Norprene® outer jacket provides long flex life in peristaltic pumps. Norprene® Chemical Tubing is an excellent choice for sensitive fluid transfer applications.


I would appear this tubing is made of 2 materials, one internal and one external. Interesting. I was initially asking because I like the look of it


----------



## 161029

Some news for everybody who doesn't know.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/02/22/360-radiator-shootout-begins/


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Actually, silly me, I simly read neoprene instead of norprene...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I found about it (here):
> 
> I would appear this tubing is made of 2 materials, one internal and one external. Interesting. I was initially asking because I like the look of it


That's for the Chemical Grade tubing. The stuff being sold to us is the Industrial Grade, which doesn't appear to have the inner lining.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Does anyone here have neoprene tubing? I think I"ve only seen it in a rig once or twice around here, and I'm really curious how it holds up.


----------



## jaywar

Is two xspc rx 360's with three noctua nf- f12 on each in push enough for an overclocked 3930k to approx 5ghz and two gtx 680's? I am aware they aren't out yet but I'm assuming they will put out similar heat to the gtx 580. Would you suggest going push/pull or would push be enough? BTW I'm using a xspc raystorm, swiftech micro res rev. 2, and a mcp655-b? Also would that pump be enough for that loop?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Does anyone here have neoprene tubing? I think I"ve only seen it in a rig once or twice around here, and I'm really curious how it holds up.


It has been a long while but I am pretty sure I've seen a few cases where people had a whole lot of black gunk in their loops from it.


----------



## phillyd

im having problems with my loop
rattling noise/high temps
please help


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> Is two xspc rx 360's with three noctua nf- f12 on each in push enough for an overclocked 3930k to approx 5ghz and two gtx 680's? I am aware they aren't out yet but I'm assuming they will put out similar heat to the gtx 580. Would you suggest going push/pull or would push be enough? BTW I'm using a xspc raystorm, swiftech micro res rev. 2, and a mcp655-b? Also would that pump be enough for that loop?
> Thanks in advance.


If the 680/780 is an improvement like the 580 was over the 480, then two RX360s is more than enough for that setup. Actually, she be plenty enough for tri-sli too







. Let's just keep our fingers crossed and hope we avoid a 480 volcano repeat


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> Is two xspc rx 360's with three noctua nf- f12 on each in push enough for an overclocked 3930k to approx 5ghz and two gtx 680's? I am aware they aren't out yet but I'm assuming they will put out similar heat to the gtx 580. Would you suggest going push/pull or would push be enough? BTW I'm using a xspc raystorm, swiftech micro res rev. 2, and a mcp655-b? Also would that pump be enough for that loop?
> Thanks in advance.


yeah that pump will do just fine







as for the rads, 2 RX360s will leave you with plenty of headroom to OC those 680s and probably turn the fans down a little bit - i say youre good to go!








if you have the cash and the space to do push-pull , why not set it up that way


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If the 680/780 is an improvement like the 580 was over the 480, then two RX360s is more than enough for that setup. Actually, she be plenty enough for tri-sli too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Let's just keep our fingers crossed and hope we avoid a *480 volcano repeat*


Umm, Sorry for the noob question...but....what's a 480 volcano?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Umm, Sorry for the noob question...but....what's a 480 volcano?


An Nvidia GTX 480 that can do this with the stock cooler that has a big arse heatsink/grill:


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> An Nvidia GTX 480 that can do this with the stock cooler that has a big arse heatsink/grill


Ohh, just refering to the wicked heat output of them. Got ya







For some reason I was thinking you where talking about a different bug or something.


----------



## TwentyCent

Been looking around a bit about this norprene. Getting very mixed reviews. Actually one guy on xtreme systems says it's complete crap as it left gunk all over his system, but everywhere else people get super duper experience. Some say they've had it for years in their system without any problems...


----------



## jaywar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If the 680/780 is an improvement like the 580 was over the 480, then two RX360s is more than enough for that setup. Actually, she be plenty enough for tri-sli too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Let's just keep our fingers crossed and hope we avoid a 480 volcano repeat


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> yeah that pump will do just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as for the rads, 2 RX360s will leave you with plenty of headroom to OC those 680s and probably turn the fans down a little bit - i say youre good to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you have the cash and the space to do push-pull , why not set it up that way


Thanks much guys.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Been looking around a bit about this norprene. Getting very mixed reviews. Actually one guy on xtreme systems says it's complete crap as it left gunk all over his system, but everywhere else people get super duper experience. Some say they've had it for years in their system without any problems...


I have seen people post about using food grade tubing. it's brilliant to me lol.

Food Grade Norprene. It should be gunk/build up free.
Food Grade Tygon is some stuff that I have seen linked before on OCN and other fourms. It should also be gunk/buildup free.


----------



## TheJesus

Figure one of you might be able to provide some insight









Okay, so I've run into an interesting predicament with the whole pump/res/build/etc.

I'm stuck at a crossroads. Go with the helix res from FrozenQ or get the bay res with the helix in it. The bay res is definitely awesome and would be seen by more people, but I feel like the internal res would make the inside look epic.

There are caveats to each side:

Helix Res:
How to route from res to pump with 240 push/pull at bottom? (NZXT Switch 810 case, an example of a 240 installed here: http://www.overclockers.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DSCN2796-300x225.jpg )
I've always wondered how you fill the helix res. Do you need a fillport installed?

Bay Res:
Not as epic as helix inside.
Easier integration.

Also, another question. With 2 FC-7950 blocks, EX240, SR1 360, res, EK Max4 Extreme block, and EK Serial Bridge in the loop, should I go with the MCP355 for $35 shipped or a 655/D5 for $75 shipped (possibly less if I can find it)?

Thanks


----------



## wermad

DDC do better with high restrictive loops (ie, multiple blocks and angled fittings). The D5 is fully capable but in having tried both, I feel the DDC does a much better job and is a lot less noisier. Some say its the other way (in terms of noise). DDCs also tend to have more aftermarket goodies and these are less expensive than the D5 ones. Size is also a plus for the DDC; being smaller allows you to tuck in a many places (keep in mind they need some cooling as they do get a bit hot especially the DDC 3.25, mcp 35x).

As for the res, I had Alex's tube helix res it was the jewel in my build. The bay res, though nice and every one can immediately see it, I feel it doesn't do a loop justice. In terms of looks, the tube one is my choice, in terms of practicality, the bay res gets the nod.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> DDC do better with high restrictive loops (ie, multiple blocks and angled fittings). The D5 is fully capable but in having tried both, I feel the DDC does a much better job and is a lot less noisier. Some say its the other way (in terms of noise). DDCs also tend to have more aftermarket goodies and these are less expensive than the D5 ones. Size is also a plus for the DDC; being smaller allows you to tuck in a many places *(keep in mind they need some cooling as they do get a bit hot especially the DDC 3.25, mcp 35x).*
> As for the res, I had Alex's tube helix res it was the jewel in my build. The bay res, though nice and every one can immediately see it, I feel it doesn't do a loop justice. In terms of looks, the tube one is my choice, in terms of practicality, the bay res gets the nod.


Some kind of water block attachment would be nifty. They have blocks for the Aquario 5, and they have the cute little heatsinks for teh 355/35x.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Some kind of water block attachment would be nifty. They have blocks for the Aquario 5, and they have the cute little heatsinks for teh 355/35x.


In the DDC bay res (ie, XSPC DDC bay res) they will get hot. I had a slot blower fan aiding the pump. In the open, its not even warm tbh. I've heard the 35x gets really hot that swiftech developed a heatsink for it. Since it uses the same housing as the DDC 3.1 and 3.2 the heatsink is interchangeable. So, in a bay res, provide the DDC some cooling, in the open with adequate cooling, ti should be fine. The D5 I owned was in a bay res too (xspc) and it never got hot, which a plus for the D5


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> In the DDC bay res (ie, XSPC DDC bay res) they will get hot. I had a slot blower fan aiding the pump. In the open, its not even warm tbh. I've heard the 35x gets really hot that swiftech developed a heatsink for it. Since it uses the same housing as the DDC 3.1 and 3.2 the heatsink is interchangeable. So, in a bay res, provide the DDC some cooling, in the open with adequate cooling, ti should be fine. The D5 I owned was in a bay res too (xspc) and it never got hot, which a plus for the D5


YEa. I'm pulling my hair out trying to decide a pump for my CPU loop....I just have to be so OCD about everydetail.... lol. Thanks for the info


----------



## wermad

I think the DDC 3.2 (ie, MCP355) is the best compromise of the three common DDC pumps (DDC 3.1/MCP350, DD 3.2/mcp355, DDC 3.25/mcp35x). I've had a couple (both new and preowned) and I never had an issue with them other than a little heat when they are in a tight close area. The D5 is just too big and noisier (imo) compared to the DDC in my personal experience. I bought a preowned mcp 355 from the market that I'm using for my loop (res>pump>480>gpu x3>360 #1>cpu> mb#1>mb#2>360 #2).


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> DDC do better with high restrictive loops (ie, multiple blocks and angled fittings). The D5 is fully capable but in having tried both, I feel the DDC does a much better job and is a lot less noisier. Some say its the other way (in terms of noise). DDCs also tend to have more aftermarket goodies and these are less expensive than the D5 ones. Size is also a plus for the DDC; being smaller allows you to tuck in a many places (keep in mind they need some cooling as they do get a bit hot especially the DDC 3.25, mcp 35x).
> As for the res, I had Alex's tube helix res it was the jewel in my build. The bay res, though nice and every one can immediately see it, I feel it doesn't do a loop justice. In terms of looks, the tube one is my choice, in terms of practicality, the bay res gets the nod.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> In the DDC bay res (ie, XSPC DDC bay res) they will get hot. I had a slot blower fan aiding the pump. In the open, its not even warm tbh. I've heard the 35x gets really hot that swiftech developed a heatsink for it. Since it uses the same housing as the DDC 3.1 and 3.2 the heatsink is interchangeable. So, in a bay res, provide the DDC some cooling, in the open with adequate cooling, ti should be fine. The D5 I owned was in a bay res too (xspc) and it never got hot, which a plus for the D5


You helped and made it worse







Now I have no idea what to do









Thinking helix bay res with 655 just because it'll make my life way easier, but then again the helix inside looks way more epic. But... how often am I really going to look inside my case instead of the front?









*insert rage face*

EDIT: Just a note, noise doesn't particularly matter to me as long as its quieter than 30dB fans (even then, it still wouldn't bother me if its just a normal hum).


----------



## wermad

You really have to bleed the D5 to quell the noise but I still found it to be far noisier than the DDC.

As for the reservoirs. There's something about the tube reservoirs that make them looks just oh so right in a properly setup case (albeit a decently sized one too). The way I see, the helix res, aka "Virus" reservoir, looks like a prop from the movie Resident Evil. It just makes it look cool. The right color combo and your good. Plus, you have the option to get a small 150mm, medium 250mm (what I had) to the insanely but oh, so awesome 400mm res. You can't have this options with the bay res, just colors







. Another reason to go with a tube res is that, you may never know if you will need those bays for something else. Like this:


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You really have to bleed the D5 to quell the noise but I still found it to be far noisier than the DDC.
> As for the reservoirs. There's something about the tube reservoirs that make them looks just oh so right in a properly setup case (albeit a decently sized one too). The way I see, the helix res, aka "Virus" reservoir, looks like a prop from the movie Resident Evil. It just makes it look cool. The right color combo and your good. Plus, you have the option to get a small 150mm, medium 250mm (what I had) to the insanely but oh, so awesome 400mm res. You can't have this options with the bay res, just colors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Another reason to go with a tube res is that, you may never know if you will need those bays for something else. Like this


Stupid ROG only part is stupid.... I wanna use it with my p8z68-v pro/gen3......


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You really have to bleed the D5 to quell the noise but I still found it to be far noisier than the DDC.
> As for the reservoirs. There's something about the tube reservoirs that make them looks just oh so right in a properly setup case (albeit a decently sized one too). The way I see, the helix res, aka "Virus" reservoir, looks like a prop from the movie Resident Evil. It just makes it look cool. The right color combo and your good. Plus, you have the option to get a small 150mm, medium 250mm (what I had) to the insanely but oh, so awesome 400mm res. You can't have this options with the bay res, just colors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Another reason to go with a tube res is that, you may never know if you will need those bays for something else. Like this:


Hmm, still not sure. Ugh.

The helix will be black/orange tubes as the theme is orange and black









I'd never pay more than $10 for that, lol. I don't need on-the-fly overclocking







Plus, it would be a 250MM, no more, no less


----------



## wermad

^^^ROG oc stations are very rare but its mostly for the bling factor. My vote goes for the tube res, you got plenty of space in your case. And tbh, its the inside components that you truly want to show off and blow people away (I've done this a few times).


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ROG oc stations are very rare but its mostly for the bling factor. My vote goes for the tube res, you got plenty of space in your case. And tbh, its the inside components that you truly want to show off and blow people away (I've done this a few times).


Yeah, I saw that they are pretty rare.

The main concern is installing the helix res with a pump directly below it and then routing to the rad at the bottom of the case (its really tight, giggity).

You think too highly of the people I know







"You have water in your computer?!" *gasp* Lol. I see what you mean though. I really want to make a decision tonight so I can tell FrozenQ which one, lol.

Side note: Is 4x 45* and 4x 90* (plus the other normal barbs) too restrictive for either of the pumps?


----------



## Angrybutcher

It's alive! More in my BOINCer build log


----------



## TheJesus

Screw it, I'm going helix with a 655.


----------



## Ceadderman

@werm... those swiftech HS are much larger than the pumps. The one you would want if you were to do a bottom HS is the Koolance unit. It replaces the shell of the pump.









If I had the ability to do that without modifying the bracket so I could fit them side by side I would do that. Since I can't I've got to get two of the Swiftech units mount them side by side so they complete a platform and then mount my Dual DDC setup on top of them. So that's 8 holes I gotta drill in the bottom of my case if I hard mount them in.



As you can see, I'll have to slide the pumps over to the edge of the platform and secure them to it using HS tape.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Heatsinks are bandages for an overheating pump. Hence why I didn't jump on the DDC 3.25 bandwagon. I'll stick with 3.2 for now









Got a new cpu block coming in and an EK "true" backplate for my 1155 mb.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Heatsinks are bandages for an overheating pump. Hence why I didn't jump on the DDC 3.25 bandwagon. I'll stick with 3.2 for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new cpu block coming in and an EK "true" backplate for my 1155 mb.


The backplate is really nice







What CPU block did you pick?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Heatsinks are bandages for an overheating pump. Hence why I didn't jump on the DDC 3.25 bandwagon. I'll stick with 3.2 for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new cpu block coming in and an EK "true" backplate for my 1155 mb.


lol, You should get the DDC-1Ts' that bmaverick is selling. They do as good a job as the 3. series for less cost and not as much heat. Only reason I want to put a HS under mine is cause I believe in preventative maintenance. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.









Another step closer...










~Ceadder


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Some kind of water block attachment would be nifty. They have blocks for the Aquario 5, and they have the cute little heatsinks for teh 355/35x.


The pump is the water block, that's how the pump is cooled by water passing through it. That heat is added to the entire loop, add a second and you have more heat dumping into your loop.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> DDC do better with high restrictive loops (ie, multiple blocks and angled fittings). The D5 is fully capable but in having tried both, I feel the DDC does a much better job and is a lot less noisier. Some say its the other way (in terms of noise). DDCs also tend to have more aftermarket goodies and these are less expensive than the D5 ones. Size is also a plus for the DDC; being smaller allows you to tuck in a many places *(keep in mind they need some cooling as they do get a bit hot especially the DDC 3.25, mcp 35x).*
> As for the res, I had Alex's tube helix res it was the jewel in my build. The bay res, though nice and every one can immediately see it, I feel it doesn't do a loop justice. In terms of looks, the tube one is my choice, in terms of practicality, the bay res gets the nod.
> 
> 
> 
> Some kind of water block attachment would be nifty. They have blocks for the Aquario 5, and they have the cute little heatsinks for teh 355/35x.
Click to expand...

A water block for a water cooling pump :O

I'm about to finish off my loop with a MCP350 with EK pump-top.


----------



## Ceadderman

How awesome would that be?









"You're such a fan of water cooling we water cooled your pumps with other pumps that we water cooled with still other pumps which are cooled by your pumps. These blocks are gold plated even to aid in wicking heat away from the bottom of the pumps. No more heat sinks an you be the man of the hour when you crane this bad boy into your next LAN party."



~Ceadder


----------



## Stormblitz

Built a pumping station from my broken MCP655. Vibrates like crazy, but I use it to fill newly installed components before connecting to the whole loop. Saves my from having to drain, fill, and bleed the entire system. (Added a 7970 w/EK block)










My modified 690ii Advanced, note the 4 drive bay cages.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stormblitz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Built a pumping station from my broken MCP655. Vibrates like crazy, but I use it to fill newly installed components before connecting to the whole loop. Saves my from having to drain, fill, and bleed the entire system. (Added a 7970 w/EK block)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My modified 690ii Advanced, note the 4 drive bay cages.


Really nice setup, I also have a Microres coming for my 690 II Adv. I'll have an RX240 on the bottom, RS240 on the top, and Black Ice Pro 120 on the rear and a MCP350 in the 5.25" bay along with the Microres.


----------



## Stormblitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Really nice setup, I also have a Microres coming for my 690 II Adv. I'll have an RX240 on the bottom, RS240 on the top, and Black Ice Pro 120 on the rear and a MCP350 in the 5.25" bay along with the Microres.


Thanks. I couldn't fit a RX240 at the bottom which kinda sucks because the hard drive cage eats up just a little too much space. I was short about 8mm or so


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stormblitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Really nice setup, I also have a Microres coming for my 690 II Adv. I'll have an RX240 on the bottom, RS240 on the top, and Black Ice Pro 120 on the rear and a MCP350 in the 5.25" bay along with the Microres.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I couldn't fit a RX240 at the bottom which kinda sucks because the hard drive cage eats up just a little too much space. I was short about 8mm or so
Click to expand...

Wow, I completely forgot the reason I started the last post, I wanted to say nice job on the HDD cage and mention that I can't because I've got such a thick RAD on the bottom haha.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> They do. The backplate fits both GTX570/580. And V2 as well.
> It seems they are also releasing a full-nickel block to accompany the backplate. A little late to the party, but puts any other block out there to shame [yes, including EK's].


That's for a reference GTX 570/580, the GTX 570 HD uses a different PCB, similar to a GTX 560 Ti. As far as I know they don't have back plates for those cards, I've got two EK blocks for mine. I would LOVE some backplates









Yea uh, totally ignore my mistake there, just NOW clicked the V2 link...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stormblitz*
> 
> 
> Built a pumping station from my broken MCP655. Vibrates like crazy, but I use it to fill newly installed components before connecting to the whole loop. Saves my from having to drain, fill, and bleed the entire system. (Added a 7970 w/EK block)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My modified 690ii Advanced, note the 4 drive bay cages.


That's a neat idea. I like it. You might get some rubber feets for that platform however. Should minimize the vibration.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> The backplate is really nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What CPU block did you pick?


A Koolance cpu-360, got it for $50 but it was missing the backplate. Since I'm limited on the area behind the mb and the mb tray, I went ahead and got the EK "true" 1155 backplate. It replaces the intel cpu retention rear bracket and has holes for 1155 coolers (air or water).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> lol, You should get the DDC-1Ts' that bmaverick is selling. They do as good a job as the 3. series for less cost and not as much heat. Only reason I want to put a HS under mine is cause I believe in preventative maintenance. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another step closer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There's still on the weaker side for a complex loop. Two could do the job but that's more than what I paid for my 3.2. I'll stick to the tried and true 3.2









btw, donate your res to me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> A water block for a water cooling pump :O
> I'm about to finish off my loop with a MCP350 with EK pump-top.


In a closed confined area, they will generate a bit of heat. In an open area, as long as there some cooling they don't heat up as much. Mine is sitting in front of the 480mm rad with eight fans, so its got plenty of cooling


----------



## OverSightX

I just added some parts to mine (again), but I'm waiting on the the blank link to come in to finish it off. Let me know what you guys think so far. The 2 tubes going to the res will have more slack on them once I screw the res in it's final place.

360 GTX Black Ice Extreme
120 Black Ice
D5 Monsoon Res
2x Ek 7970 Ac+Nickel
Triple Serial


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*


I'm sure those two 7970's were quite the investment.








We got the same CPU block and motherboard.


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> I just added some parts to mine (again), but I'm waiting on the the blank link to come in to finish it off. Let me know what you guys think so far. The 2 tubes going to the res will have more slack on them once I screw the res in it's final place.
> 360 GTX Black Ice Extreme
> 120 Black Ice
> D5 Monsoon Res
> 2x Ek 7970 Ac+Nickel
> Triple Serial


What RPM's you run these fans at and what temps are you getting in furmark? 480 rad space seems just enough for this setup


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's still on the weaker side for a complex loop. Two could do the job but that's more than what I paid for my 3.2. I'll stick to the tried and true 3.2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, donate your res to me


Only if you donate your Radiator(360 or larger) to me.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## chmodlabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bindusar*
> 
> Here's mine, a little homemade deal that does the job...could be better
> but could be worse.
> 
> D-Tek Fusion
> Swiftech MCP655-B
> Koolance Inline Reservoir
> 2-120mm Thermaltake Thunderblades
> Custom 1/2" Coiled Copper Tube Heat Exchange


That copper coil is just awesome. How does it preform relative to other rad's you've used? Looks great!!
-chmodlabs ~ experimental cooling enthusiast (3m Novec 7000 club)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only if you donate your Radiator(360 or larger) to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


haha, nah, I needs the cooling power for these 480s









90°s came in today. Damn ppcs.com shipped my backplate late and now it won't arrive until monday








. Oh well, cpu block ain't here yet either


----------



## phillyd

so my Rasa res/pump is dying, anybody know if i can return it for refund since its a commonly faulty pump?
if not i may sellt the replacement and get a seperate res & pump.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> so my Rasa res/pump is dying, anybody know if i can return it for refund since its a commonly faulty pump?
> if not i may sellt the replacement and get a seperate res & pump.


Depends on how long you've had it I guess. If it's a short time, you might be able to do it. I can't promise anything however because I don't know where you bought it and what their policy is. If you take it back to manufacturer, forget it. It's a straight RMA replacement.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> so my Rasa res/pump is dying, anybody know if i can return it for refund since its a commonly faulty pump?
> if not i may sellt the replacement and get a seperate res & pump.
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on how long you've had it I guess. If it's a short time, you might be able to do it. I can't promise anything however because I don't know where you bought it and what their policy is. If you take it back to manufacturer, forget it. It's a straight RMA replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

dang








how much could i get out of it do you think?


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> dang
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how much could i get out of it do you think?


I have one right now. how did it die? I need to know because my computer is folding 24/7 and if it dies, i am screwed.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> dang
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how much could i get out of it do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> I have one right now. how did it die? I need to know because my computer is folding 24/7 and if it dies, i am screwed.
Click to expand...

its not dead
yet
its just been rattling excessively, and the problem precedes death so often that if you send them a video with your pump rattle, they send you a new one.


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> its not dead
> yet
> its just been rattling excessively, and the problem precedes death so often that if you send them a video with your pump rattle, they send you a new one.


No freaking way, if they do that to me I will be a supporter for life!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> its not dead
> yet
> its just been rattling excessively, and the problem precedes death so often that if you send them a video with your pump rattle, they send you a new one.


If you bought it from a retailer, xspc will send you a new replacement for free. Just have to submit rma w/ proof of purchase (ie. receipt, invoice, etc.).


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you bought it from a retailer, xspc will send you a new replacement for free. Just have to submit rma w/ proof of purchase (ie. receipt, invoice, etc.).


What if I lost my proof of purchase? What do i do?


----------



## TwentyCent

You buy a new one







haha


----------



## wseroyer

Just finished my build and put new lights in.


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> You buy a new one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha


They will never get 1 penny out of me. This is discrimination!







No but really do they expect us to keep these papers for ever?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> What if I lost my proof of purchase? What do i do?


What retailer? If you have an account with them, you can probably find the receipt in the archives. If you can't find it, your SOL bud. Good luck mate


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> its not dead
> yet
> its just been rattling excessively, and the problem precedes death so often that if you send them a video with your pump rattle, they send you a new one.
> 
> 
> 
> No freaking way, if they do that to me I will be a supporter for life!
Click to expand...

look into it


----------



## RussianHak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What retailer? If you have an account with them, you can probably find the receipt in the archives. If you can't find it, your SOL bud. Good luck mate


Thing is I got this rez from a member here on OCN. I think i'm screwed.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What retailer? If you have an account with them, you can probably find the receipt in the archives. If you can't find it, your SOL bud. Good luck mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thing is I got this rez from a member here on OCN. I think i'm screwed.
Click to expand...

pm him and ask him for it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Thing is I got this rez from a member here on OCN. I think i'm screwed.


Ask the member if has the receipt. Though, most likely you'll need his name on rma info. I feel you mate, I had the same thing happen with a new one i bought from a member too. I ended up returning it to him and he refunded 100%. Only down side was I lost out on the shipping, but hey, lesson learned. Now I stick with DDC (or D5 or Jingway) for pumps.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> dang
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how much could i get out of it do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> I have one right now. how did it die? I need to know because my computer is folding 24/7 and if it dies, i am screwed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its not dead
> yet
> its just been rattling excessively, and the problem precedes death so often that if you send them a video with your pump rattle, they send you a new one.
Click to expand...

BTW if it has always done this it doesn't mean it's dieing, you just have play in the impeller. Tip it to the side and I bet it goes away.


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> I'm sure those two 7970's were quite the investment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got the same CPU block and motherboard.


They were, but I sold an unlocked 6950 and a 6970 to help ease the pain in my wallet







Love the block and board. can't seem to get rid of either
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> What RPM's you run these fans at and what temps are you getting in furmark? 480 rad space seems just enough for this setup


The fans are adjustable: 1200 - 2200 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200021

I haven't run these on the blocks yet. Loop still in progess. When I had the CPU and a 6970 OC'd the max I had on that was 63C on a mcr320 drive.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> dang
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how much could i get out of it do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> I have one right now. how did it die? I need to know because my computer is folding 24/7 and if it dies, i am screwed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its not dead
> yet
> its just been rattling excessively, and the problem precedes death so often that if you send them a video with your pump rattle, they send you a new one.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> BTW if it has always done this it doesn't mean it's dieing, you just have play in the impeller. Tip it to the side and I bet it goes away.
Click to expand...

ive tilted, shaken, flipped, refilled, cleaned, tested for external vibrations and many more things


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> They will never get 1 penny out of me. This is discrimination!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No but really do they expect us to keep these papers for ever?


Why not lol, that difficult to stuff all your invoices into 1 folder and stick that in a drawer?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Why not lol, that difficult to stuff all your invoices into 1 folder and stick that in a drawer?


Shoe box ftw


----------



## sli_shroom




----------



## Dredknot

Here is My updated build as of today. Added a 200mm rad to the front of my haf x case. Now im not worried about watercooling all 3 gtx 580s with only one rad so that will be my next step.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> They will never get 1 penny out of me. This is discrimination!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No but really do they expect us to keep these papers for ever?
> 
> 
> 
> Why not lol, that difficult to stuff all your invoices into 1 folder and stick that in a drawer?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Why not lol, that difficult to stuff all your invoices into 1 folder and stick that in a drawer?
> 
> 
> 
> Shoe box ftw
Click to expand...

My important system documents go in their own leather folder in the Case box that has all the component boxes inside it. And all of them are in page protectors. I'll have it even after the system is out of warranty. Also everything goes into my "Receipts" folder in my Email address so I'm double protected from losing them. Never know when you might need the Receipts or where.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Here is My updated build as of today. Added a 200mm rad to the front of my haf x case. Now im not worried about watercooling all 3 gtx 580s with only one rad so that will be my next step.
> 
> ]


Very cool. Would love to just do a 200 in mine, but that's a little more spensive. Not a whole lot of room to maneuver in that large case though. I'm glad my Pump/Res setup is gonna be parallel to the front of my 932.









Are you running your HDDs' in the Hotswap bays of your X? Or are they mounted on the right side of the 5.25 cage?









~Ceadder


----------



## Wubz

First WC setup and sleeving job. Temps are much lower than I expected


----------



## Modori

I will just leave this here.


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My important system documents go in their own leather folder in the Case box that has all the component boxes inside it. And all of them are in page protectors. I'll have it even after the system is out of warranty. Also everything goes into my "Receipts" folder in my Email address so I'm double protected from losing them. Never know when you might need the Receipts or where.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very cool. Would love to just do a 200 in mine, but that's a little more spensive. Not a whole lot of room to maneuver in that large case though. I'm glad my Pump/Res setup is gonna be parallel to the front of my 932.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you running your HDDs' in the Hotswap bays of your X? Or are they mounted on the right side of the 5.25 cage?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


ya i had to mount them to the metal hot swap to install them lol. dont be fooled about that rad it says it a 200mm but its much bigger so it wasnt fun trying to get it in there lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Cool thanks for the heads up.

I think I'ma run into an issue with mine if I run a 360. I wanted to use the DD fillport/res to fill my system but the Radiators I'm looking at are ~397mm in length. Which runs pretty close to the opening in the top of the 932. Is anyone here running a 360 with a Fillport up top in the 932?









I guess I could use some brackets to push the Radiator back from the opening but I'm not sure which ones to use in order to mount it properly. Anyone know of a good set of brackets for cheap?









~Ceadder


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wubz*
> 
> First WC setup and sleeving job. Temps are much lower than I expected


Dang i commend you on your mini tubing link for your cards!!! I was way too scared to do that lol!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> Dang i commend you on your mini tubing link for your cards!!! I was way too scared to do that lol!


Not too hard tbh


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not too hard tbh


True


----------



## brownieapple

i took the easy way and used the bitspower crystal connectors.


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> i took the easy way and used the bitspower crystal connectors.


They suck if you are using coloured tubing with distilled


----------



## brownieapple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> They suck if you are using coloured tubing with distilled


lmao yeah. i mean i can use mayhems and get the color i want. but i kinda like the "oh shoot that really is water" look my friends/family get on their faces.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brownieapple*
> 
> lmao yeah. i mean i can use mayhems and get the color i want. but i kinda like the "oh shoot that really is water" look my friends/family get on their faces.


and i think it is beneficial to be able to see fluid in a couple spots when bleeding the system. that way you can see that it is actually flowing and you know youre pump isnt just sittting there trying to push air


----------



## wermad

Couldn't do this with my current setup, so I went with D-plugs:



You could do it with mini/stubby barbs but the d-plugs look smexxy


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> Dang i commend you on your mini tubing link for your cards!!! I was way too scared to do that lol!


I guess i am just not as experienced, my sigis my first wc loop. What was making me nervous is the nipple the tubing slides onto with my fittings seems rather short, a tiny piece of tubing connected like that makes me nervous, although, i am not as experienced as some in here!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> I guess i am just not as experienced, my sigis my first wc loop. What was making me nervous is the nipple the tubing slides onto with my fittings seems rather short, a tiny piece of tubing connected like that makes me nervous, although, i am not as experienced as some in here!


There's plenty of ways to link blocks. You can use sli fittings, barbs/compression with tube, and plugs. Just make sure you have plenty of clearance as compression fittings can be bulky and big.

Here's mine using Bitspower D-plugs. They are expensive but its a clean way to link my blocks. I'm planning to nickel plate the blocks down the road to match them with the rest of the loop better:


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's plenty of ways to link blocks. You can use sli fittings, barbs/compression with tube, and plugs. Just make sure you have plenty of clearance as compression fittings can be bulky and big.
> Here's mine using Bitspower D-plugs. They are expensive but its a clean way to link my blocks. I'm planning to nickel plate the blocks down the road to match them with the rest of the loop better:


Yeah i ended up with the paralell link by EK. I like the look a lot. I suck with tubing so i decided to go that route.


----------



## Farih

Anybody knows if this EK RAD XTX 120 will line up outside at the back of a CM Storm case ?

I would like to put the EK rad on the back outside of my case hoping it line's up with the holes for tubing there.
Have a Magicool Elegant plexi there now and it doesnt line up








Plan to move the Magicool inside and get the EK rad on the back and so create extra rad surface, going from 360 to 480 rad surface. [240+120+120]

And is the EK rad any good ? and if it doesnt fit could you recommend one that does fit ?


----------



## TwentyCent

I personally like this test by Bundy.

Although it shows 360 rads, I think you can stil use it to compare 120 rads. As for the fitting, I have no idea, sorry


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Anybody knows if this EK RAD XTX 120 will line up outside at the back of a CM Storm case ?
> 
> I would like to put the EK rad on the back outside of my case hoping it line's up with the holes for tubing there.
> Have a Magicool Elegant plexi there now and it doesnt line up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plan to move the Magicool inside and get the EK rad on the back and so create extra rad surface, going from 360 to 480 rad surface. [240+120+120]
> 
> And is the EK rad any good ? and if it doesnt fit could you recommend one that does fit ?


Why not mount it on the inside?


----------



## Scorpion49

I've just created frankencooler, trying to get a feel for how my 3930k will OC while I'm working on the case the build will eventually go in (NZXT Switch). Antec P280 took one for the team to be a giant "test bench".... and yes, I did rip the front door off of the case and set it on top. The foam inside quites vibrations nicely


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Why not mount it on the inside?


Just because of looks really, inside it doesnt really line up nicely with the 240 rad.
If nothing fit outside on the back i will install it inside though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Just because of looks really, inside it doesnt really line up nicely with the 240 rad.
> If nothing fit outside on the back i will install it inside though.


Well, its got a mounting holes for a 140mm which should allow you to fit it inside. As for the grommet holes lining up, most cases (no pun intended







) don't line up and you have to drill out new holes. The grommets are intended to route water lines outside the case. If you are concerned with mb clearance when putting the 120mm rad inside, go with a slimmer rad like the RS120/EX120 or BI Stealth 120. i was able to fit an RS120 inside with a fan next to a top mounted RS240 in a 690ii. Only issue was fitting clearance, which an extension and a low profile angled fitting fixed









If you must have the EK120 outside, just loop the tube through the grommets if you aren't looking to cut the case.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> I personally like this test by Bundy.
> Although it shows 360 rads, I think you can stil use it to compare 120 rads. As for the fitting, I have no idea, sorry


Thx for link..
Make's me think of going with a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 120mm now allthough the EK rad looks better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, its got a mounting holes for a 140mm which should allow you to fit it inside. As for the grommet holes lining up, most cases (no pun intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) don't line up and you have to drill out new holes. The grommets are intended to route water lines outside the case. If you are concerned with mb clearance when putting the 120mm rad inside, go with a slimmer rad like the RS120/EX120 or BI Stealth 120. i was able to fit an RS120 inside with a fan next to a top mounted RS240 in a 690ii. Only issue was fitting clearance, which an extension and a low profile angled fitting fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you must have the EK120 outside, just loop the tube through the grommets if you aren't looking to cut the case.


I know it will fit inside easely, it will just look worse..
Because of the MB i dit had to go with a slim rad inside on the top of the case, but inside and outside on the back i could easely go with a 60mm thick rad.
think i should just order one and keep my fingers crossed then.


----------



## xDMike

Just finished my first WC loop.










Now I have to wait for a new video card to water cool!


----------



## jdk33

Just finished up my loop today, if all goes well I'll be sealing it up till something breaks tomorrow


----------



## NoGuru

Just got a Dimastech bench.


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDMike*
> 
> Just finished my first WC loop.
> -snip-
> Now I have to wait for a new video card to water cool!


I see that you have your UV converter in the same general place as mine


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*
> 
> Just got a Dimastech bench.


Hell of a fine bench! I would love to get one, but my kids would totally destroy my PC


----------



## xDMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> I see that you have your UV converter in the same general place as mine


I would have rather had it in the backside of the case but the wires aren't long enough lol.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*
> 
> Just got a Dimastech bench.


YOu have your pump in the same exact position as mine, and your rad. I have the same bench, just in white!

Just click on the link in my sig, for my log!


----------



## manu97416

What tubing company should I go for ? I'm looking for white tubing 1/2 ID & 3/4 OD
Gonna get a red black and white look


----------



## Nynn

Primochill:yessir:


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> What tubing company should I go for ? I'm looking for white tubing 1/2 ID & 3/4 OD
> Gonna get a red black and white look


Good info in my sig link









For white though, I think Primochill's your best choice.


----------



## jaywar

I'm upgrading from my h100.








Finally going to be a real ocn watercooler.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm upgrading from my h100.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally going to be a real ocn watercooler.


That's some upgrade mate









Enjoy


----------



## sate200

RAMPAGE IV EXTRME, BUILDING PROJECT!!! WAITING 3930K...


----------



## mybadomen

oh Yummy Yummy parts. Grats mate that's going to be some fun you got there.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm upgrading from my h100.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally going to be a real ocn watercooler.


How are you planning on mounting those rads on your Dimastech ? Would love to see a build log.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> How are you planning on mounting those rads on your Dimastech ? Would love to see a build log.


It has mountings built-in for dual 360mm radiators; one of them is shown in the picture and the other is on the opposite end.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> RAMPAGE IV EXTRME, BUILDING PROJECT!!! WAITING 3930K...


Bitspower QDs' would be awesome on those CPU to Mosfet/NB blocks. Look *TONS* cleaner too.











~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

new pics
check the build log in the sig please!!


----------



## wermad




----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> It has mountings built-in for dual 360mm radiators; one of them is shown in the picture and the other is on the opposite end.


Ah i see, i was stupid when i bought my bench and bought the one with only 1 360 rad cut out!


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


damn wermad...that is a monster...nice build


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> damn wermad...that is a monster...nice build


^ This.. Very impressive build wermad!


----------



## tippy25

Holy ****, wermad. That is absolutely gorgeous. You, sir, get 3 thumbs up.


----------



## OverSightX

Finally finished my new loop.

Before:


Now:


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

@Wermad That is sweet! What kind of fluid and tubing are you using? are are you having any issue's with buildup yet? I want to use colored fluid soooo bad in my loop, looks so much nicer than colored tubing IMO.

@OverSightX Nice looking rig man! very clean.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Bitspower QDs' would be awesome on those CPU to Mosfet/NB blocks. Look *TONS* cleaner too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Or using some Bitspower Crystal Links.


----------



## sli_shroom

oversightx..nice build. "after" is definitely a nice improvement


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> @Wermad That is sweet! What kind of fluid and tubing are you using? are are you having any issue's with buildup yet? I want to use colored fluid soooo bad in my loop, looks so much nicer than colored tubing IMO.
> @OverSightX Nice looking rig man! very clean.


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> oversightx..nice build. "after" is definitely a nice improvement


Thanks! I definitely like the now much better


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> damn wermad...that is a monster...nice build


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> ^ This.. Very impressive build wermad!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> Holy ****, wermad. That is absolutely gorgeous. You, sir, get 3 thumbs up.


Thanks guys








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> @Wermad That is sweet! What kind of fluid and tubing are you using? are are you having any issue's with buildup yet? I want to use colored fluid soooo bad in my loop, looks so much nicer than colored tubing IMO.


Its Mayhems Deep Purple. Same setup I had before with the 690ii build (blue leds R4s and Deep purple dye). It does stain a bit but it comes right off. I haven't had any separation at all though the cheap tube from Home Depot doesn't do it justice. I need to email Primochill about getting an rma clear tube as they are aware of the "clouding" and "plasticizing" issues with their tube. Needs some tidying up of the wires here and there and some wiping down as the fingerprints are all over the place


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its Mayhems Deep Purple. Same setup I had before with the 690ii build (blue leds R4s and Deep purple dye). It does stain a bit but it comes right off. I haven't had any separation at all though the cheap tube from Home Depot doesn't do it justice. I need to email Primochill about getting an rma clear tube as they are aware of the "clouding" and "plasticizing" issues with their tube. Needs some tidying up of the wires here and there and some wiping down as the fingerprints are all over the place


I want to use mayhams. I have heard nothing but amazing things about his products and he seems to actually care alot about what he dose. Thanks for the info.


----------



## wermad

Shipping is a bit expensive *reasonable* from the UK but its worth it. And I do agree, Mike from Mayhems has been stellar and stands behind his products. I'm so tempted to try the pastel yellow


----------



## DrJns

I have a few minor changes to make, but I've (almost) just finished my first water cooled system. I need to give the back fan another coat of white paint, cover the EK symbol on the bottom 120 rad, cover the serial numbers on the bottom exhaust fans, clean up a few cables, and most importantly, find a way to stop the white gunky look in the top and bottom seals of my water reservoir (ANY IDEAS??). Forgive the electrical tape...it was the easiest way to hide colored wires.

I'll update my build log (here) as I finish these final, minor changes.

Please let me know what advice you have as I'm still learning and willing to fix the system!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Shipping is a bit expensive from the UK but its worth it. And I do agree, Mike from Mayhems has been stellar and stands behind his products. I'm so tempted to try the pastel yellow


I am doing everything but cut up my credit cards to keep me from ordering a RASA kit and some mayhams dye right this second... I can't quite afford the loop I want for my CPU so I'm waiting and its killing me right now.. By the end of the summer in a perfect world I'll have two loops (one for cpu/mobo and one for GPU's) and each would be a diff color....gerr, why dose this stuff have to cost so much lol.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Finally finished my new loop.


Very nice OverSightX.. Very nice!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I am doing everything but cut up my credit cards to keep me from ordering a RASA kit and some mayhams dye right this second... I can't quite afford the loop I want for my CPU so I'm waiting and its killing me right now.. By the end of the summer in a perfect world I'll have two loops (one for cpu/mobo and one for GPU's) and each would be a diff color....gerr, why dose this stuff have to cost so much lol.


Look for preowned. Most of the stuff in my current build is preowned. The only things new are the fittings, the mb block, fans, and the psu. Everything else was purchased mostly from great members from the market and from fleabay. I would say its still quite an investment non-the-less. The Rasa is a good starter kit, though I don't like the tube (clouds really fast) and the pump (dreaded rattle).


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Look for preowned. Most of the stuff in my current build is preowned. The only things new are the fittings, the mb block, fans, and the psu. Everything else was purchased mostly from great members from the market and from fleabay. I would say its still quite an investment non-the-less. The Rasa is a good starter kit, though I don't like the tube (clouds really fast) and the pump (dreaded rattle).


yea, going with the rasa kit make's no sense for my situation right now. I'm going to be dropping the CM690 II as my personal case when I do the water loop(I still love it but its time for epic case time). I have to say you have been one of the larger insperations for me wanting to do a custom loop. I loved you CM690 II build. Thanks for the tip to buy used.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I have a few minor changes to make, but I've (almost) just finished my first water cooled system. I need to give the back fan another coat of white paint, cover the EK symbol on the bottom 120 rad, cover the serial numbers on the bottom exhaust fans, clean up a few cables, and most importantly, find a way to stop the white gunky look in the top and bottom seals of my water reservoir (ANY IDEAS??). Forgive the electrical tape...it was the easiest way to hide colored wires.
> I'll update my build log (here) as I finish these final, minor changes.
> Please let me know what advice you have as I'm still learning and willing to fix the system!


Sooo many rads in that case!


----------



## Eyedea

Randomner865, what did you use to highlight the EK on the block? Looks rather nice


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Randomner865, what did you use to highlight the EK on the block? Looks rather nice


Probably a Sharpie Paint Pen


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I am doing everything but cut up my credit cards to keep me from ordering a RASA kit and some mayhams dye right this second... I can't quite afford the loop I want for my CPU so I'm waiting and its killing me right now.. By the end of the summer in a perfect world I'll have two loops (one for cpu/mobo and one for GPU's) and each would be a diff color....gerr, why dose this stuff have to cost so much lol.


The 690ii is a lovely case for first time water coolers. But after owning large cases it seemed like an enigma for me. I just wasnt that thrilled with it. Don't get me wrong, its an awesome case and its a great platform to learn wc, I guess I'm just used to handling these larger cases.

The DD is a unique case though at first I wasn't too excited, once assembled, it was awesome! Its got its down sides but any case does tbh. Its such a unique design that it makes it really special and stands out from the other cases I've owned. I was super lucky to grab this guy for a great price. Thus, the build came into being


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Randomner865, what did you use to highlight the EK on the block? Looks rather nice


Not my build guys just commenting on his implementation of so many radiators in that case.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

I have a question guys. I am new in WCing

I just received my parts today. And I began leak testing the stuff. I realised that the Monsoon fittings are ridiculously tight with the Primochill White LRT. I measured and the parts are the same OD & ID. But when I placed the monsoon compression fittings onto the tubing and the ring over the tubing, the ring is extremely snug with the tubing and takes a while and quite a bit of effort to get from one end of the tubing to the fitting. This is unlike videos, I have seen on the web where the ring is very loose on the tubing. And when I screw the ring into the fittings, and then try and remove *just* the ring, sometimes the entire fitting will unscrew itself as well. I leak tested for a short while and they dont leak even with just the barb.

Is it normal, and is this the fittings fault or the tubing?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> I have a question guys.
> I just received my parts today. And I began leak testing the stuff. I realised that the Monsoon fittings are ridiculously tight with the Primochill White LRT. I measured and the parts are the same OD & ID. But when I placed the monsoon compression fittings onto the tubing and the ring over the tubing, the ring is extremely snug with the tubing and takes a while and quite a bit of effort to get from one end of the tubing to the fitting. This is unlike videos, I have seen on the web where the ring is very loose on the tubing. And when I screw the ring into the fittings, and then try and remove *just* the ring, sometimes the entire fitting will unscrew itself as well. I leak tested for a short while and they dont leak even with just the barb.
> Is it normal, and is this the fittings fault or the tubing?


From what I hear, this is normal, especially with Primochill.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Oh good, cos the tubing was just so tight, it pulled the entire fitting along with the ring when I tried to unscrew the ring by itself ==. Well, at least it's tight.


----------



## axipher

I can finally officially join, got rid of my mediocre H100 and upgraded to:

EK Supreme HF Black Acetyl
MCP350 pump
XSPC RX240
XSPC RS240
Black Ice Pro 120
Swiftech Microres
1/2" Barbs
Watts 3/4 in. OD x 1/2 in. ID x 10 ft. Clear PVC Tubing

http://www.overclock.net/t/1165941/690-ii-advanced-canary-red/0_50#post_15659464


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I can finally officially join, got rid of my mediocre H100 and upgraded to:
> 
> EK Supreme HF Black Acetyl
> MCP350 pump
> XSPC RX240
> XSPC RS240
> Black Ice Pro 120
> Swiftech Microres
> 1/2" Barbs
> Watts 3/4 in. OD x 1/2 in. ID x 10 ft. Clear PVC Tubing
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1165941/690-ii-advanced-canary-red/0_50#post_15659464


looks good!

you seem to have the same problem i have: where to put the pump lol


----------



## kieran13

you could always grab a dual bay res where u can mount the pump inside XSPC has one and koolance also has one


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13*
> 
> you could always grab a dual bay res where u can mount the pump inside XSPC has one and koolance also has one


That's what I was thinking, but for now, this rig isn't moving anywhere since I'm in the process of building a LAN rig, so I'll most likely leave it as is for now and build a little pump plate for it.

I might look into putting a true loop in my mATX build and using this pump and res and then get a Bay-res/pump combo. But that's not for a while. I'll just be happy to get some temperature results tonight from this overkill loop.


----------



## kieran13

more rads dont mean more cooling just means you will have a bigger overhead and you already know this but im just typing it so other will read it


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13*
> 
> more rads dont mean more cooling just means you will have a bigger overhead and you already know this but im just typing it so other will read it


What's this word "overhead" you use? Is that similar to "overkill"? I don't know the meaning!


----------



## kieran13

overhead it means u can add more heat example a video card to the loop without it affecting the temperature of your cpu


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13*
> 
> overhead it means u can add more heat example a video card to the loop without it affecting the temperature of your cpu


sarcasm is not easily detected in text


----------



## kieran13

haha my bad lol there needs to be a sarcasm emote


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> sarcasm is not easily detected in text


Its not sarcasm...? It means exactly what it says you can add more heat producing components in your loop without increasing the temp of the other components therefore you have more "overhead" for your temps


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Its not sarcasm...? It means exactly what it says you can add more heat producing components in your loop without increasing the temp of the other components therefore you have more "overhead" for your temps


His own text was sarcasm


----------



## Schmuckley

My Loop


My Temps Right now..it's ...70f ambient

dang..wish i could make the temps pic clearer..anyway ..63c





















YaY bong!
Even if i prime for hours..it will only rise 1-2c
Those are Idle temps..under load..39c
Not pretty..but highly effective


----------



## sloppyjoe123

@ Schmuckley

You seem to be quite the bong enthusiast







Nearly on every watercooling noob thread, you are promoting the usage of bongs (even on mine







)

Is there any way to make a smaller bong lol.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> sarcasm is not easily detected in text


^this^


----------



## kieran13

Man I can't wait to post my build in here it's going to be epic
I am building it In the NZXT Switch 810 case I should get my
Case at the start of April lol I know dam australia always getting
Our stuff slow


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13*
> 
> haha my bad lol there needs to be a sarcasm emote


^ this. I've always thought we needed a sarcasm emote


----------



## TwentyCent

Or we could vote on an official sarcasm text color


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Or we could vote on an official sarcasm text color


I use tapatalk a lot and you can't change text color with that. An emote would be best I think


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah that's what OCN needs a sarcasm emote...







<

*This doesn't work for you?










~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah that's what OCN needs a sarcasm emote...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <
> 
> *This doesn't work for you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schmuckley*
> 
> My Loop
> 
> My Temps Right now..it's ...70f ambient
> 
> dang..wish i could make the temps pic clearer..anyway ..63c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YaY bong!
> Even if i prime for hours..it will only rise 1-2c
> Those are Idle temps..under load..39c
> Not pretty..but highly effective


holy mother of unorganized cables batman!!

nice bong though lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah that's what OCN needs a sarcasm emote...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <
> 
> *This doesn't work for you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i think he found the sarcasm emote. rolleyes is sarcastic btw


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> What's this word "overhead" you use? Is that similar to "overkill"? I don't know the meaning!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13*
> 
> overhead it means u can add more heat example a video card to the loop without it affecting the temperature of your cpu


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> sarcasm is not easily detected in text


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13*
> 
> haha my bad lol there needs to be a sarcasm emote


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Its not sarcasm...? It means exactly what it says you can add more heat producing components in your loop without increasing the temp of the other components therefore you have more "overhead" for your temps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> His own text was sarcasm


This whole bit made me chuckle







I think *morencyam* had it right though, this is OCN, does overkill exist in this forum??


----------



## jaywar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schmuckley*
> 
> My Loop
> 
> My Temps Right now..it's ...70f ambient
> 
> dang..wish i could make the temps pic clearer..anyway ..63c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YaY bong!
> Even if i prime for hours..it will only rise 1-2c
> Those are Idle temps..under load..39c
> Not pretty..but highly effective


I have a bong also; but mine isn't for my comp.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> I have a bong also; but mine isn't for my comp.


ha ha ha word!!!!!!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> I have a bong also; but mine isn't for my comp.


lol the first time I told my buddy I wanted to build a water bong, he goes "Where does the 'tobacco' go??"


----------



## (sic)

To continue the off topic rant...

It's 420 here in Texas.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> To continue the off topic rant...
> It's 420 here in Texas.


Its always 420 somewhere


----------



## Lou88

Can i join?
first attempt for me *O*




need to change my 8800gt and Power supply :S in that case (thermaltake armor) "cable organize" is a unknow word D:


----------



## DrJns

Did you name it "Tube"?


----------



## Lou88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Did you name it "Tube"?


Red tube D: xD xD 3meter of tube :S radiators are in all parts of case °_°


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou88*
> 
> Can i join?
> first attempt for me *O*
> *snip*
> need to change my 8800gt and Power supply :S in that case (thermaltake armor) "cable organize" is a unknow word D:


Change the order and you might be able to set it up a bit more clean and eliminate some tube. This will also ease up some stress on the pump. Order doesn't really impact your temps that much. Just try to find the simplest route to connect your stuff with the least tubing. Also, keep in mind accessibility when you have to break down the loop. Looks good for a first time btw


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou88*
> 
> Red tube D: xD xD 3meter of tube :S radiators are in all parts of case °_°


Ha. Is the hose coming out of the front 240 kinked?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Randomner865, what did you use to highlight the EK on the block? Looks rather nice


Are you talking about mine? I used a Sharpie Paint Pen. Those things are priceless.


----------



## Lou88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Ha. Is the hose coming out of the front 240 kinked?


no, only bad photo :S sorry
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Change the order and you might be able to set it up a bit more clean and eliminate some tube. This will also ease up some stress on the pump. Order doesn't really impact your temps that much. Just try to find the simplest route to connect your stuff with the least tubing. Also, keep in mind accessibility when you have to break down the loop. Looks good for a first time btw


yes, i will cut off some tube when i buy new vga, thx for the advice


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou88*
> 
> no, only bad photo :S sorry
> yes, i will cut off some tube when i buy new vga, thx for the advice


Buy a new case instead he he .


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou88*
> 
> 
> 
> need to change my 8800gt and Power supply :S in that case (thermaltake armor) *"cable organize" is a unknow word* D:


What cables? All I see is tubing


----------



## moa.

Finally managed to snap some photos after adding 240 rad


----------



## wermad

^^^Digging the pink coolant


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^Digging the pink coolant


It is no coolant - I dont like the idea of dye clogging my blocks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> It is no coolant - I dont like the idea of dye clogging my blocks


Old ways my friend, if you haven't discovered Mayhems and some other brands that don't separate, you're missing out. Check out my comparo and my rig linked below.


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> Finally managed to snap some photos after adding 240 rad


I really like that.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

its smexy.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not diggin the pink, but diggin how the system is set up.









~Ceadder


----------



## mironccr345

Nice Pink loop Moa. Here's a teaser of a rig I finished a couple of days ago. I still have to work on a log for the build.


----------



## jaywar

Waiting on my pump to come in the mail to complete the loop. Also waiting for my fan controller. I Have the cpu on air until my pump comes in as well. Let me know what you think of the noctua's; I don't see many people using anything besides the ap-15's.







My bad for the bad photo quality; iphone 4 just sucking it up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice Pink loop Moa. Here's a teaser of a rig I finished a couple of days ago. I still have to work on a log for the build.


What coolant/dye are you using? Looks very vivid


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou88*
> 
> Can i join?
> first attempt for me *O*
> 
> need to change my 8800gt and Power supply :S in that case (thermaltake armor) "cable organize" is a unknow word D:


try taking the most direct path possible, because aside from cpu and gpu temps, most of these wont matter much.


----------



## Tipless

update with lighting:


----------



## jamaican voodoo

man its been a while since post or log on but i've browse through to see other people watercool creations....have post pick of my old watercooled rig before put it got no attention..it prolly was that bad lol but i have since updated my rig and show i want to show to you guys..........i need to get rid of those yellow cable makes kinda looks meh....dont you think ?


----------



## Doober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou88*
> 
> Can i join?
> first attempt for me *O*
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> need to change my 8800gt and Power supply :S in that case (thermaltake armor) "cable organize" is a unknow word D:


assuming you have a GPU block i propose a route of first move pump closer to res. then it would be Res>Pump>GPU>Back 120 Rad>CPU>Memory>Top Rad>Front Rad>Res. This would probably reduce half the tubing. if your case lacks "cable management" drill some holes, use zip ties, tape, and make your own lol. Wire management is a skill that is learned.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


Also Jaywar I want that bench, but i live on a dirt road with way too much dust so it would be such a pita. Also why the upgrade to 1200w? going TriFire/SLI?

-Doober


----------



## jaywar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doober*
> 
> Also Jaywar I want that bench, but i live on a dirt road with way too much dust so it would be such a pita. Also why the upgrade to 1200w? going TriFire/SLI?
> -Doober


Yeah waiting for the 680's to come out. Going to end up putting my rig in a caselabs case before college; haven't decided which yet though. The bench is cool for now, but need something more realistic. Have some white sleeved psu cords coming in the mail from corsair as well some extended fins for my ram. Pretty pumped.


----------



## sethmo

Finally got my Fractal XL going. Still need to:
-Tidy up wiring
-Swap out fitting on resevoir return so the back panel can fit on
-Hook up front header panel
-Get new white braided 6-pin extensions.
-Hook up pull fans
-Cut two 120mm holes in side panel


----------



## Tipless

Does anyone know of any die that is white?


----------



## sethmo

Ice Dragon and Mayhem makes a white dye. Not sure where you can get Mayhem dyes anymore.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_384&products_id=33280


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> YOu have your pump in the same exact position as mine, and your rad. I have the same bench, just in white!
> Just click on the link in my sig, for my log!


Yeah nice build








I had to bore out the hole for the tubing coming out the Res but other then that all went together pretty easy.


----------



## kieran13

@sethmo DUDE that is tidy how can you clean up the cables lol


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sethmo*
> 
> Ice Dragon and Mayhem makes a white dye. Not sure where you can get Mayhem dyes anymore.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_384&products_id=33280


any cheaper white dyes/coolants?
$30 is a huge upcharge over 88 cents/gallon
and how muchi s in the ice dragon bottle?
should it be used as the coolant or as a dye?


----------



## Angrybutcher

I believe the Ice Dragon is a 1L bottle and is coolant, rather than an additive/dye.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> What cables? All I see is tubing


LOL


----------



## sethmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13*
> 
> @sethmo DUDE that is tidy how can you clean up the cables lol


The PCI-E 6pins bug me, and the backside of the motherboard tray is atrocious!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13*
> 
> @sethmo DUDE that is tidy how can you clean up the cables lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> any cheaper white dyes/coolants?
> $30 is a huge upcharge over 88 cents/gallon
> and how muchi s in the ice dragon bottle?
> should it be used as the coolant or as a dye?


Here is the Mayhem white dye, I have not used either dyes, so I can't really comment on quality.
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/mayhem-s-pastel/134-mayhems-pastel-uv-white-609224350979.html


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sethmo*
> 
> Here is the Mayhem white dye, I have not used either dyes, so I can't really comment on quality.
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/mayhem-s-pastel/134-mayhems-pastel-uv-white-609224350979.html


any american?









would organic food coloring work?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> any american?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would organic food coloring work?


I'm not aware of any current US distributes for Mayhem's dyes. He is working with Performance-PCS and another, but those deals have not been finalized the last I read. Close, but not quite yet.

Food coloring would work, but as that is a true dye, you will likely have staining. Small amounts of unsweetened Kool-aid also work from what I hear.


----------



## sate200

IN BUILDING


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> any cheaper white dyes/coolants?
> $30 is a huge upcharge over 88 cents/gallon
> and how muchi s in the ice dragon bottle?
> should it be used as the coolant or as a dye?


Ice Dragon cooling nanofluid is ~ $30/1L. It is a coolant, not a dye. You don't add water to it. You can however add dye to it, however it takes a ridiculous amount of dye to get strong colours. IDC should also have a rather long life. I have personally re used the same coolant in three different setups.

Plus it looks fantastic.


----------



## gashi

Hey guys this is my work in progress. it's in the middle of bleeding right now.



I'll get some better pics up once i'm done with it


----------



## (sic)

@lowfat
That blue is awesome! How much dye did it take?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> @lowfat
> That blue is awesome! How much dye did it take?


About 20ml of Mayhems deep blue.









Like I said it takes a serious amount of dye.

If you are looking for a dark solid colour I would start w/ one of Mayhems darker pastels. Then add more dye from there. It would be more cost effective.


----------



## Tipless

How well can you see through the ice dragon? I mean could you see the helix in dual bay res?


----------



## lowfat

You can't see through it. It is completely opaque. Even if the reservoir had lights in it, you would not see the light shine though.


----------



## Ceadderman

@lowfat... I take it you are running clear tubing not white?









That looks wicked cool I must say.









~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @lowfat... I take it you are running clear tubing not white?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks wicked cool I must say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes the tubing is clear. Primoflex LRT in both pics.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


geeze that is gorgeous.
im gonna wait until next year when i do a $1500+ upgrade


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice Pink loop Moa. Here's a teaser of a rig I finished a couple of days ago. I still have to work on a log for the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What coolant/dye are you using? Looks very vivid
Click to expand...

it's primochill uv pink. I used 6 drops. It looks orange under the uv lights. So I'm using NZXT white sleeved LED's over the uv cold cathodes. IMO the led's look better. I'll have more pics up soon.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can't see through it. It is completely opaque. Even if the reservoir had lights in it, you would not see the light shine though.


What if I mixed it with distilled?


----------



## airnews39

My NZXT Phantom with the pedestal I made.


















If you want to see more pictures, check out my mod log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1215785/nzxt-phantom-pedestal


----------



## 0gre

When I set about to do my first ever custom water cooled PC, this was one of the places I went to for inspiration and dataz.

Hope you all won't mind if I throw up pictures of the rig that cramped my fingers for days. -.-




























The build log is here.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> What if I mixed it with distilled?


It can't be mixed with more water from what I've been told.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It can't be mixed with more water from what I've been told.


Yeah, that's what the bottle says, but I did and it's working fine. No sedation or clumping. The solute ratios remain constant if you just add distilled, so I don't understand why (other than to make us buy more) they say diluting the solution will cause sedation. You can get 5-7 Liters of opaque white out of one Liter of Ice Dragon.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airnews39*
> 
> http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9063/img8144or.jpg


Gorgeous pictures Greg.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Yeah, that's what the bottle says, but I did and it's working fine. No sedation or clumping. The solute ratios remain constant if you just add distilled, so I don't understand why (other than to make us buy more) they say diluting the solution will cause sedation. You can get 5-7 Liters of opaque white out of one Liter of Ice Dragon.


I don't suppose you have any pics of it diluted?

If it can be diluted and still look good then I assume it would take dye a lot easier after being diluted.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't suppose you have any pics of it diluted?
> If it can be diluted and still look good then I assume it would take dye a lot easier after being diluted.


Yeah: here.

These pics are of it diluted about 1/5 L Ice Dragon and 4/5 L H2O. Looks exactly the same. The stuff is pretty concentrated.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Yeah: here.
> These pics are of it diluted about 1/5 L Ice Dragon and 4/5 L H2O. Looks exactly the same. The stuff is pretty concentrated.


Interesting. Time to buy a whole lot of dye to see how well it dyes after being diluted.


----------



## Deeks

I had a question about your rig DrJns, I see you colored your heatsinks black with paint, i was looking to do the same thing and i was told it would hinder the efficiency of the heatsink. have you noticed a raise in temps at all?


----------



## airnews39

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Gorgeous pictures Greg.


Thanks SimpleTech!


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeks*
> 
> I had a question about your rig DrJns, I see you colored your heatsinks black with paint, i was looking to do the same thing and i was told it would hinder the efficiency of the heatsink. have you noticed a raise in temps at all?


No, my temps have stayed the same. Paint those bad boys.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

man that was a lot of posts since last update...


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> man that was a lot of posts since last update...


That it was...

find would you take $5 shipped for a vial of the ice dragon? I don't need much as I want it to be semi transparent.


----------



## Deeks

I was also wondering what kind of paint you used ? ( Enamal est . . . ) And if you primed/sanded them at all or just sprayed right over top ?


----------



## Deeks

I was also wondering what kind of paint you used ? ( Enamal est . . . ) And if you primed/sanded them at all or just sprayed right over top ?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeks*
> 
> I was also wondering what kind of paint you used ? ( Enamal est . . . ) And if you primed/sanded them at all or just sprayed right over top ?


I'll probably lose some respect by sharing, but I used this paint. I did not sand or prime. I wanted the layer to be as thin as possible.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I'll probably lose some respect by sharing, but I used this paint. I did not sand or prime. I wanted the layer to be as thin as possible.


Psh, that's what I use. No one here is going to care. Not everyone has professional painting equipment and skills. Good work


----------



## kieran13

@airnews39

looks great but i think there is a little to much blue other than that looks sick can you make me one of those stands for my rad


----------



## airnews39

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13*
> 
> @airnews39
> looks great but i think there is a little to much blue other than that looks sick can you make me one of those stands for my rad


Hey Kieran, thanks









It is a little blue when the led's are on. I'm probably going to pop some UV CCFL's in there to light up the tubing.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> man that was a lot of posts since last update...
> 
> 
> 
> That it was...
> 
> find would you take $5 shipped for a vial of the ice dragon? I don't need much as I want it to be semi transparent.
Click to expand...

I'd do the same deal, well however much to make it opaque


----------



## skyn3t

come on lets vote on MOTM


----------



## wermad

Any one tried Duplicolor Chrome paint? I'm not looking for a true chrome finish but more of a shiny-polished silver/nickel finish.


----------



## Tipless

Thats pretty much what it'll look like. It should work for ya


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one tried Duplicolor Chrome paint? I'm not looking for a true chrome finish but more of a shiny-polished silver/nickel finish.


Yea, I've used it before. Its a good product but require's a lot of attention to detail in prep work... Imperfections show up way to well...way to well... And I noticed that the actual shine or finish will change based on what your painting and primer. so if it doesn't look right the first time a different primer might yield the right effect. It's well worth it _if_ your willing to put in effort

EDIT: black primer's always looked better IMO..


----------



## SonDa5

Pull with 3xTriebwerks 55m thickness high speeds on a HWLabs 360 GT Stealth.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Thats pretty much what it'll look like. It should work for ya


Tnx mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yea, I've used it before. Its a good product but require's a lot of attention to detail in prep work... Imperfections show up way to well...way to well... And I noticed that the actual shine or finish will change based on what your painting and primer. so if it doesn't look right the first time a different primer might yield the right effect. It's well worth it _if_ your willing to put in effort
> EDIT: black primer's always looked better IMO..


I'll give it a shot. I wanted to plate my DD "Satin"/matte copper blocks but that was way too expensive. I've been suggested to paint the blocks (the parts that won't contact the gpu core, vram, and vrm(s)), so I'm looking for a paint to match my nickel plated fittings and cpu block. I was also thinking of spraying the blocks satin black, to contrast the nickel d-plugs i'm using as sli links.

Thanks guys, +1


----------



## kkorky

My first ever [email protected] watercooling

Link to minor worklog/parts info and photos if wanted

http://www.overclock.net/t/1223466/my-first-watercooling-rig-hope-for-all-haf-922-owners-who-dont-fancy-doing-too-much-case-modding


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesome pump cooler Mate.









j/k









I really like your setup though. I just built a 922 system(same case setup with the Blues) and have to say that I might have gone with the 922 had I not with the 932. It really does have a lot of room in it. You might consider modding it for a 360 in the future, or maybe add a Phobya 200 up front to take advantage of all that extra room. It would be a tight fit but you should be able to get one in there without cutting into the 5.25 bays.









~Ceadder


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tnx mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll give it a shot. I wanted to plate my DD "Satin"/matte copper blocks but that was way too expensive. I've been suggested to paint the blocks (the parts that won't contact the gpu core, vram, and vrm(s)), so I'm looking for a paint to match my nickel plated fittings and cpu block. I was also thinking of spraying the blocks satin black, to contrast the nickel d-plugs i'm using as sli links.
> Thanks guys, +1


Satin black would be more forgiving if your new to painting, but if you've done it a time or two and have some idea how to perp it then them chrome would look nice good look. I expect pic's soon! lulz


----------



## [email protected]




----------



## juneau78

that awkward moment when u see pc running with no ram in it









j/k man


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> My first ever [email protected] watercooling
> 
> Link to minor worklog/parts info and photos if wanted
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1223466/my-first-watercooling-rig-hope-for-all-haf-922-owners-who-dont-fancy-doing-too-much-case-modding


what are the low profile fans on the 240, and how do they perform, cfm/db


----------



## kkorky

Hi,
they are http ://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Slip-Stream-120mm-Slim-Case-Fan-1200-RPM--SY1212SL12L-pid-10543.html

if you click on my link underneath my original post, it will take you to a work log of sorts that gives a full spec rundown-as for db level -practically silent, most of the work is done by the 2 x GT on top-which are also near enough silent up to about 1050 rpm. the slimline fans i can run at full speed again with hardly any discernible noise being heard. Im still testing the set up though -ie: push/pull, or just pull on its own or even just push on its own for web surfing etc, but most wc 'pros' would say that the slimline fans are superfluous to my cooling needs


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Hi,
> they are http ://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Slip-Stream-120mm-Slim-Case-Fan-1200-RPM--SY1212SL12L-pid-10543.html
> 
> if you click on my link underneath my original post, it will take you to a work log of sorts that gives a full spec rundown-as for db level -practically silent, most of the work is done by the 2 x GT on top-which are also near enough silent up to about 1050 rpm. the slimline fans i can run at full speed again with hardly any discernible noise being heard. Im still testing the set up though -ie: push/pull, or just pull on its own or even just push on its own for web surfing etc, but most wc 'pros' would say that the slimline fans are superfluous to my cooling needs


I was going to get one of these for the front of my CM690 since my RX240 kind of stops me from using a 25 mm thick fan.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Hi,
> they are http ://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Slip-Stream-120mm-Slim-Case-Fan-1200-RPM--SY1212SL12L-pid-10543.html
> 
> if you click on my link underneath my original post, it will take you to a work log of sorts that gives a full spec rundown-as for db level -practically silent, most of the work is done by the 2 x GT on top-which are also near enough silent up to about 1050 rpm. the slimline fans i can run at full speed again with hardly any discernible noise being heard. Im still testing the set up though -ie: push/pull, or just pull on its own or even just push on its own for web surfing etc, but most wc 'pros' would say that the slimline fans are superfluous to my cooling needs


do you have them in push or pull?


----------



## kkorky

@ axipher
-whilst they push quite a bit of air for their size, as i mentioned before, the brunt of the work is done by the GT x 2 on top which are setup to pull-the slim line fans merely provide a little extra airflow. I also use them alone (my fans are connected to a fan controller) when im doing very light 'work' ie web surfing, watching movies etc. That having been said, i find them worth every penny that i spent for them, and they are 100% better than nothing at all for those that have space restrictions imo.

@phillyd
-i have them pushing the air out of the case.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> @ axipher
> -whilst they push quite a bit of air for their size, as i mentioned before, the brunt of the work is done by the GT x 2 on top which are setup to pull-the slim line fans merely provide a little extra airflow. I also use them alone (my fans are connected to a fan controller) when im doing very light 'work' ie web surfing, watching movies etc. That having been said, i find them worth every penny that i spent for them, and they are 100% better than nothing at all for those that have space restrictions imo.


My apologies, forgot to specify. I have an RX240 on the bottom on top of two AP-15's pulling air out the bottom of the case. This fan will be installed on the front of the case as intake providing fresh air for the RAD. My bad for not explaining that.

I should have updated pictures tonight of my setup, I know I said that yesterday, but my nights have been a little hectic as of late.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> My apologies, forgot to specify. I have an RX240 on the bottom on top of two AP-15's pulling air out the bottom of the case. This fan will be installed on the front of the case as intake providing fresh air for the RAD. My bad for not explaining that.
> I should have updated pictures tonight of my setup, I know I said that yesterday, but my nights have been a little hectic as of late.


IMHO i would get a higher rpm slimline fan, as i said, my slimline fans are mere 'auxiliaries' the hard work is done by the GT's on top, follow the link for ideas-and no i do not work or have any affiliation to specialtech, i was just a customer









Link:http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Slimline-Case-Fans-cid-968.html


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> My apologies, forgot to specify. I have an RX240 on the bottom on top of two AP-15's pulling air out the bottom of the case. This fan will be installed on the front of the case as intake providing fresh air for the RAD. My bad for not explaining that.
> I should have updated pictures tonight of my setup, I know I said that yesterday, but my nights have been a little hectic as of late.
> 
> 
> 
> IMHO i would get a higher rpm slimline fan, as i said, my slimline fans are mere 'auxiliaries' the hard work is done by the GT's on top, follow the link for ideas-and no i do not work or have any affiliation to specialtech, i was just a customer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link:http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Slimline-Case-Fans-cid-968.html
Click to expand...

Hmm, of those fans, the one you have is the only one that would fit, I have 17 mm of clearance between the case and the WC tubes.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Hmm, of those fans, the one you have is the only one that would fit, I have 17 mm of clearance between the case and the WC tubes.


I'd then go for the http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Kaze-Jyu-SLIM-100mm-CaseHDD-Fan-2000-RPM--SY1012SL12M-pid-5962.html it has the highest cfm out of your choices, but if i remember correctly, 15mm fans also exist, let me get back to you on that one (ill look through my bookmarks







)


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> I'd then go for the http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Kaze-Jyu-SLIM-100mm-CaseHDD-Fan-2000-RPM--SY1012SL12M-pid-5962.html it has the highest cfm out of your choices, but if i remember correctly, 15mm fans also exist, let me get back to you on that one (ill look through my bookmarks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Update: there you go-i knew that i had them in my bookmarks somewhere, i didnt get them because they were too 'fat' for my intended needs.

Link: http://www.cooltechpc.com/c/ctpc/std/sku=nexus_120mm_15mm.html


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> I'd then go for the http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Kaze-Jyu-SLIM-100mm-CaseHDD-Fan-2000-RPM--SY1012SL12M-pid-5962.html it has the highest cfm out of your choices, but if i remember correctly, 15mm fans also exist, let me get back to you on that one (ill look through my bookmarks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Update: there you go-i knew that i had them in my bookmarks somewhere, i didnt get them because they were too 'fat' for my intended needs.
> 
> Link: http://www.cooltechpc.com/c/ctpc/std/sku=nexus_120mm_15mm.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, I'll look in to those more tonight.


----------



## kkorky

Anytime


----------



## Ceadderman

One of the Retail sites listed the Yate Loon fans at .8 for static pressure. I'm pretty sure they meant .08.









My Cliff Claven moment of the day.









~Ceadder


----------



## DrJns

Very annoyed with the Ice Dragon liquid. I had it in my system for five days, and the tubes are already colored. I wanted to try blue, pink, and orange, but I'd have to put in new tubing. Bahumbug.

I've been pumping distilled through it all night to see if some of it may clear. Are there any tricks besides swapping the tubes?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Very annoyed with the Ice Dragon liquid. I had it in my system for five days, and the tubes are already colored. I wanted to try blue, pink, and orange, but I'd have to put in new tubing. Bahumbug.
> 
> I've been pumping distilled through it all night to see if some of it may clear. Are there any tricks besides swapping the tubes?


Try a pipe brush


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Try a pipe brush


All the ones I can find seem to have pretty strong bristles. Wouldn't they scratch my tubes? Anyone know of one that is best or maybe another idea?

This is the closest I can find: http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770210-Nylon-Brush-2-Inch/dp/B002Q2FX6Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Try a pipe brush
> 
> 
> 
> All the ones I can find seem to have pretty strong bristles. Wouldn't they scratch my tubes? Anyone know of one that is best or maybe another idea?
> 
> This is the closest I can find: http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770210-Nylon-Brush-2-Inch/dp/B002Q2FX6Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Click to expand...

Try running straight vinegar for 10 minutes and flush with distilled and lime juice once and distilled once. If that doesn't get it nothing will. I just cleaned up mineral deposits in my Liquid Fusion Res and it took a combination of all that plus baking soda and hydrogen peroxide. I wouldn't recommend the baking soda however since it's a solid and you don't want to run that through your pump(s), not to mention that it can be abrasive.









On the plus side I found out that I'm not gonna run that stuff in my loop. Thanks for being the guinea pig.









~Ceadder


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try running straight vinegar for 10 minutes and flush with distilled and lime juice once and distilled once.


Several people have advised I don't run vinegar through my loop. It hasn't caused you any problems?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks for being the guinea pig.


I live to serve.


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Very annoyed with the Ice Dragon liquid. I had it in my system for five days, and the tubes are already colored.


Colored how? You must have drained your loop to notice this, unless the color you speak of isn't white.

Just curious because I have a shipment on the way...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try running straight vinegar for 10 minutes and flush with distilled and lime juice once and distilled once.
> 
> 
> 
> Several people have advised I don't run vinegar through my loop. It hasn't caused you any problems?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks for being the guinea pig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I live to serve.
Click to expand...

Running vinegar for 10 minutes isn't going to harm anything. It's only when you run it and forget it, that you will harm seals and possibly the impeller on your pump. 10 minutes should be enough to get it, if not that's why I also suggest Using a mix of Distilled and Lime Juice and then another flush of straight distilled. If that doesn't get it, just toss that tubing and get more.









I had my Res completely submerged in straight vinegar for 10 minutes, rinsed and submerged for 10 minutes, rinsed and repeated several times trying to get mineral deposits out of it. It started to work but it was going to take forever and a lot of vinegar so I jumped to making a paste of Soda, Lime Juice and HP with Vinegar. Used a bottle brush dunked it in the paste and then ran it through both ends of the Res and let the Res sit for 10 minutes and rinsed in the Vinegar/Distilled I had on the stove from the opening gambit of my project. And then did it one more time using straight distilled. Cleaned it right up.









If it were harmful, I wouldn't even do it myself nor would I suggest doing it to someone else. At the worst it harms your seals. That's why we do leakdown testing to make sure there won't be a problem. The Ph level can be harmful if you don't make sure to flush everything dilligently. After having cleaned this Res, I've sworn that I will *never* flush with tap water ever. We have a really bad hard water problem where I live, that would be like flushing my system with straight calcium. It's *that* bad.









If you are concerned with the vinegar issue, I would suggest rinsing with straight distilled more than once.









~Ceadder


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Colored how? You must have drained your loop to notice this, unless the color you speak of isn't white.
> Just curious because I have a shipment on the way...


Yes, I drained the loop and flushed it probably 10 times with distilled water. Here's a picture of one of the tubes:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you are concerned with the vinegar issue, I would suggest rinsing with straight distilled more than once.


Thank you. I'm going to try this tonight!


----------



## DrJns

PS. I feel sorry for people who don't have good drain and fill ports. This would all be such a pain without them!


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Yes, I drained the loop and flushed it probably 10 times with distilled water.


Did you start the draining process because you saw discoloration (off-white)?

Was it building up in any of your blocks or just staining the tubing?

If you were planning continued use of IDC and there were no adverse affects (other than staining of the tube), I don't see the issue.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Did you start the draining process because you saw discoloration (off-white)?
> Was it building up in any of your blocks or just staining the tubing?
> If you were planning continued use of IDC and there were no adverse affects (other than staining of the tube), I don't see the issue.


You're right. If my plan was to always keep IDC, there would be no problem (so 'No' to your first two questions). However, I want to try a few different colors and see what I like best. I'm going to paint match everything after I decide. You're good to go if you know you want to keep it in your system. No clumping or anything (and mine was very diluted).


----------



## Ceadderman

Yikees that is bad ain't it.









Filling and draining is why I'll be running a T fitting from the outlet of the pump and a fill line from the 2nd inlet in the top of my Res. I really want my loop to be done but I'll have to drain and fill it anyway when I ever get the GPU block to add to the loop anyway. Might as well get it all together and not have to do it with no good way of doing it pre planned and included in the initial loop. Planning can save a TON of headaches in the future.









Someday I'll get my loop closed but in the meantime I'm compiling the parts and planning it. Just need another pump, drain line fittings, and Radiator. Fans are gonna be on the way soon as PPCs' gets the 20mm High Speed Yates in stock.









~Ceadder


----------



## (sic)

Good to know. Thanks for the info.

I plan to play around with IDC and Mayhems dyes, so I could end up in entirely different situation. Positive or negative results will end up in my build log... whenever I get that going.


----------



## DrJns

Good luck Ceaddarman.

Sic, I'm going to be testing Mayhems dyes as well (plus Primochill). I'll let you know what I find in case it helps you.


----------



## Alex132

Are you sure it's not just the tubes that are discolored?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Are you sure it's not just the tubes that are discolored?


or a plasticizer issue, not related to the fluid.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Are you sure it's not just the tubes that are discolored?


The tubes were ~perfectly clear before I put in the fluid, and even after I flushed the fluid the first time after about an hour.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> or a plasticizer issue, not related to the fluid.


I guess this is possible, but it seems even more unlikely after only 5 days.


----------



## wermad

^^^ Welcome to the club









http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/severe-plasticizer-in-primochill-lrt


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ Welcome to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/severe-plasticizer-in-primochill-lrt


Mine doesn't look anything like that on the inside. It just looks like lots of small particles of the white dye. But now I'm kind of sad about it because I can't be in the club


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Mine doesn't look anything like that on the inside. It just looks like lots of small particles of the white dye. But now I'm kind of sad about it because I can't be in the club


lol its an honorary thing. not really sure tahts a club ya wanna be in. oh and i have blue tubing from them and yes the insides are white but the outside is still blue


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Mine doesn't look anything like that on the inside. It just looks like lots of small particles of the white dye. But now I'm kind of sad about it because I can't be in the club


Read a few pages, you'll see most of the cases are with clear tube going "cloudy". Looks like your tube has a haze to it.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Read a few pages, you'll see most of the cases are with clear tube going "cloudy". Looks like your tube has a haze to it.


Son of a bee sting, you're right. What tubing should I go with? I have 1/2" / 3/4".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> lol its an honorary thing. not really sure tahts a club ya wanna be in. oh and i have blue tubing from them and yes the insides are white but the outside is still blue


Do you mean you have blue Primochill tubing that plasticized?

EDIT: It looks like the Tygon 2001 Plasticizer Free tubing and controlled acidity/basisity levels were the recommendations on the other thread. Any other suggestions?


----------



## sate200




----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*


Parallel rads....interesting


----------



## Angrybutcher

Double post









I've done a lighting comparison in my i5 build log with PrimoFlex UV Blue tube, Phobya Flex Light RGB and Logisys UV Cathodes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Parallel rads....interesting




(notice the braid work there, kewl







)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

I wounder if doing the rads like that with a push/pull-push/pull(9 fans) set up would affect temps....time to google lol.


----------



## brownieapple

i know having the in series + 9 fans is pointless. because you are pushing heat from one to the other. and it seems that way in parallel but it seems like it would wreak your pump. well i guess if you are using dual pumps maybe not so but interesting.

anyone have any ideas/comparisons to single rad/double rad vs series sandwich vs parallel sandwich?


----------



## TheJesus

How many people would be interested in the Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings in 7/16" ID / 5/8" OD size (currently not sold by retailers)? Talking to the manufacturer, however it will require a very large group buy (>5,000). The price would be the same as usual. The reason I ask is, we're trying to see what kind of interest there really is and if enough people would be in. If you want a specific color, they would be done in groups of 250+ (250+ pieces in that color must be purchased or none will be made in that color).

I figured this would be the best place to ask.

Your input is greatly appreciated


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> How many people would be interested in the Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings in 7/16" ID / 5/8" OD size (currently not sold by retailers)? Talking to the manufacturer, however it will require a very large group buy (>5,000). The price would be the same as usual. The reason I ask is, we're trying to see what kind of interest there really is and if enough people would be in. If you want a specific color, they would be done in groups of 250+ (250+ pieces in that color must be purchased or none will be made in that color).
> 
> I figured this would be the best place to ask.
> 
> Your input is greatly appreciated


This is the best place to ask, but having some experience with the Group Buy I have to warn you that in order to carry it off you have to spend your own money and then sell them to everyone who signs up at cost. You cannot make a single cent of profit. I had my ShinEtsu group buy shut down because I didn't understand all this before I started and didn't have the money to buy 500 units.









I'm not saying this to discourage you. In fact I applaud your cause. But you should be aware of what you're getting yourself into before you jump in with both feet.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is the best place to ask, but having some experience with the Group Buy I have to warn you that in order to carry it off you have to spend your own money and then sell them to everyone who signs up at cost. You cannot make a single cent of profit. I had my ShinEtsu group buy shut down because I didn't understand all this before I started and didn't have the money to buy 500 units.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not saying this to discourage you. In fact I applaud your cause. But you should be aware of what you're getting yourself into before you jump in with both feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hmm, not sure that would be doable. My understanding was everyone put down the money for the items, they were then made and shipped to distributor and then shipping cost was collected. However, anyone was free to sell their share of the order off if they were no longer interested. Isn't that how the fan one worked (well, working...)?

Certainly







I should have said I welcomed all comments and opinions









Also, lead time on these is ~20 days from order.


----------



## Angrybutcher




----------



## TwentyCent

To those wondering about sammiched rads, here you go, brought to you by RRTech.


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Nice rig bro!









Working on a TJ07 myself. Love it!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is the best place to ask, but having some experience with the Group Buy I have to warn you that in order to carry it off you have to spend your own money and then sell them to everyone who signs up at cost. You cannot make a single cent of profit. I had my ShinEtsu group buy shut down because I didn't understand all this before I started and didn't have the money to buy 500 units.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not saying this to discourage you. In fact I applaud your cause. But you should be aware of what you're getting yourself into before you jump in with both feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, not sure that would be doable. My understanding was everyone put down the money for the items, they were then made and shipped to distributor and then shipping cost was collected. However, anyone was free to sell their share of the order off if they were no longer interested. Isn't that how the fan one worked (well, working...)?
> 
> Certainly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have said I welcomed all comments and opinions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, lead time on these is ~20 days from order.
Click to expand...

FTW PC, put up the buy money. Everyone that signed up is essentially reimbursing the purchase cost per fan. Shipping is extra.









~Ceadder


----------



## threephi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> FTW PC, put up the buy money. Everyone that signed up is essentially reimbursing the purchase cost per fan. Shipping is extra.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If this is talking about the GT 2150 fan group buy, everyone who wanted a fan paid OCN directly for them before the order was placed with the manufacturer. Then FTW was tasked with handling shipping.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *threephi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> FTW PC, put up the buy money. Everyone that signed up is essentially reimbursing the purchase cost per fan. Shipping is extra.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this is talking about the GT 2150 fan group buy, everyone who wanted a fan paid OCN directly for them before the order was placed with the manufacturer. Then FTW was tasked with handling shipping.
Click to expand...

Apologies if I am mistaken but I do believe that FTW put up the buy money. At least at some point they did. Because we were all directed to pay them. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I'm not.









In any case, if anyone is considering a bulk buy in the future you have to have the deal worked out before you can even Post the thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies if I am mistaken but I do believe that FTW put up the buy money. At least at some point they did. Because we were all directed to pay them. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I'm not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any case, if anyone is considering a bulk buy in the future you have to have the deal worked out before you can even Post the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The deal is already worked out, I just really need to gauge interest, because it won't be done unless there are 5000 fittings being ordered. This would be a multi-forum GB united with one Google Spreadsheet (OCN, XS, TPU, [H]).

We'll see, I'm waiting for Chipp's opinion. I just wanted to see if there was enough interest. Plenty of people complained on the XS thread that he wasn't making the 7/16 because retailers didn't want to buy them.


----------



## threephi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies if I am mistaken but I do believe that FTW put up the buy money. At least at some point they did. Because we were all directed to pay them. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I'm not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any case, if anyone is considering a bulk buy in the future you have to have the deal worked out before you can even Post the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I just checked my PM's from when I paid for my complete fans last June







. Payments were made to [email protected] via paypal for the fan purchase, which matches what's in the first post of the official thread. I haven't sifted through the thread but I recall Tator saying they wouldn't actually place the order until payments were received. FTW collected money separately for shipping charges.

But yeah it would help to have all the logistics worked out before anyone tries doing this again


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *threephi*
> 
> I just checked my PM's from when I paid for my complete fans last June
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Payments were made to [email protected] via paypal for the fan purchase, which matches what's in the first post of the official thread. I haven't sifted through the thread but I recall Tator saying they wouldn't actually place the order until payments were received. FTW collected money separately for shipping charges.
> But yeah it would help to have all the logistics worked out before anyone tries doing this again


Yeah, that's what I was thinking for a group buy.

The reason that one didn't go so well was FTWPC kind of dropping off the face of the planet when they moved which was in the middle of the buy. I wouldn't have that issue, hah.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Yeah, that's what the bottle says, but I did and it's working fine. No sedation or clumping. The solute ratios remain constant if you just add distilled, so I don't understand why (other than to make us buy more) they say diluting the solution will cause sedation. You can get 5-7 Liters of opaque white out of one Liter of Ice Dragon.


I attempted to dilute it today. You can definitely tell that it has been diluted. It doesn't look near as solid of a white. However it works pretty good for dyes. This is a 1 to 5 ratio of IDC:water. Then about 7-8ml of Mayhems red.


----------



## Angrybutcher

That's an awesome looking red fluid


----------



## threephi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I was thinking for a group buy.
> The reason that one didn't go so well was FTWPC kind of dropping off the face of the planet when they moved which was in the middle of the buy. I wouldn't have that issue, hah.


To be fair, I think by far the single biggest factor why it got so screwed up was the horrendous flooding in Thailand that knocked out industrial production for the last half of 2011. But FTW's issues certainly didn't help either.


----------



## Keru

Hi, I'm new to the forum and wanted to share my pc with you.

A Greeting.










So forgive me for putting that picture did not know. And my English.


----------



## wermad

^^^That's awesome mate! LD V8









What are your system specs? Fill them out in the profile section so all can see when you leave posts. Welcome (Bienvenido)!


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I attempted to dilute it today. You can definitely tell that it has been diluted. It doesn't look near as solid of a white. However it works pretty good for dyes. This is a 1 to 5 ratio of IDC:water. Then about 7-8ml of Mayhems red.


Looks great. All the pictures of my computer are that same 1:5 ration of IDC:H2O. It's about as opaque as can be. I'll double check my ratios the next time I color it.


----------



## Keru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^That's awesome mate! LD V8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are your system specs? Fill them out in the profile section so all can see when you leave posts. Welcome (Bienvenido)!


Thank you.

Ok, sorry.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *threephi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies if I am mistaken but I do believe that FTW put up the buy money. At least at some point they did. Because we were all directed to pay them. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I'm not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any case, if anyone is considering a bulk buy in the future you have to have the deal worked out before you can even Post the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just checked my PM's from when I paid for my complete fans last June
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Payments were made to [email protected] via paypal for the fan purchase, which matches what's in the first post of the official thread. I haven't sifted through the thread but I recall Tator saying they wouldn't actually place the order until payments were received. FTW collected money separately for shipping charges.
> 
> But yeah it would help to have all the logistics worked out before anyone tries doing this again
Click to expand...

Well then it looks like I am wrong. I blame a mod for that however cause they told me FTW bought them and then sold them at cost as a pre-buy deal. Basically FTW paid and before the fans were built they were sold to members of OCN. Now I'm not gonna throw the Mod under the bus, I might have misinterpreted what was said. But that's how I interpreted things based on the communications back and forth about my attempt at a Group Buy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Yeah, that's what the bottle says, but I did and it's working fine. No sedation or clumping. The solute ratios remain constant if you just add distilled, so I don't understand why (other than to make us buy more) they say diluting the solution will cause sedation. You can get 5-7 Liters of opaque white out of one Liter of Ice Dragon.
> 
> 
> 
> I attempted to dilute it today. You can definitely tell that it has been diluted. It doesn't look near as solid of a white. However it works pretty good for dyes. This is a 1 to 5 ratio of IDC:water. Then about 7-8ml of Mayhems red.
Click to expand...

Oooh man a little darker and that would look like Blood.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keru*
> 
> Hi, I'm new to the forum and wanted to share my pc with you.
> 
> A Greeting.
> 
> *snippage*
> 
> 
> 
> So forgive me for putting that picture did not know. *And my English*.


Este bien senor.









I love the look of that setup.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *threephi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I was thinking for a group buy.
> The reason that one didn't go so well was FTWPC kind of dropping off the face of the planet when they moved which was in the middle of the buy. I wouldn't have that issue, hah.
> 
> 
> 
> To be fair, I think by far the single biggest factor why it got so screwed up was *the horrendous flooding in Thailand* that knocked out industrial production for the last half of 2011. But FTW's issues certainly didn't help either.
Click to expand...

Yeah this was the biggest setback, but it exacerbated any issues FTW was already dealing with as you stated.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keru*
> 
> Thank you.
> Ok, sorry.


No ahi problema amigo









Which radiators are you running?


----------



## Relttem

Hi everyone..I am not sure if I am responding to one of the posts on here correctly, BUT, you really REALLY have to be careful about diluting Ice Dragon. There is a lot going on when we mix that has to be kept within a limit or the surfactant will deteriorate and you'll end up with clumping over time. This might not happen immediately, but if you turn off your computer for a day or two it might settle out and WILL NOT mix back.....just some fair warning..

rock on..


----------



## Relttem

Also.. we aren't trying to get you to buy more by saying not to dilute it. Dilute away..just don't blame us. When we started with our mixture we didn't just haphazardly say "hey, let's put two tablespoons of this stuff in some water and sell it.." We did a lot of work, almost 3 years of research (working on a phd and post-doc), and tried a bunch of different nanoparticles and concentrations. What we are mixing now was what we found was the best..both in terms of viscosity, Cp, K, h, and cost.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> FTW PC, put up the buy money. Everyone that signed up is essentially reimbursing the purchase cost per fan. Shipping is extra.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies if I am mistaken but I do believe that FTW put up the buy money. At least at some point they did. Because we were all directed to pay them. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I'm not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any case, if anyone is considering a bulk buy in the future you have to have the deal worked out before you can even Post the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


OCN put up the front money, all the purchase money for the fans went to OCN- the money that went to FTW was for additional T-shirts for Syrillian, shipping and anything else that was going to be combined into the shipment. That's part of the problem, OCN agreed to be the middleman and it's gotten bumpy since FTW got involved (voluntarily) to handle the shipping.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one tried Duplicolor Chrome paint? I'm not looking for a true chrome finish but more of a shiny-polished silver/nickel finish.


check this out it will help ya doing your project. how you to use Dupi-Color Chrome Paint


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keru*
> 
> Hi, I'm new to the forum and wanted to share my pc with you.
> A Greeting.
> 
> 
> So forgive me for putting that picture did not know. And my English.


Wow, uhh...









This "is" an absolutely gorgeous looking watering cooling build! I have been drooling over this build for the last 20 minutes while on the phone and my friend asked me if I was busy or something, drool factor is high! Is that an LD-V8 and are all of those 480 radiators? I own two SR-1 560's and am a Hardware Labs person for life, build quality is off the charts! I just purchased a Case Labs STH10 and almost purchased the LD-V8!


----------



## ikem




----------



## sli_shroom

@keru - just wow. so clean. please show a pic of the backside of the mobo tray too. interested in the fittings and your routing behind the tray.

@ikem - nice build. the front and the piece of diamond plate really give it an industrial look - i like


----------



## Timechange01

Interesting choice on the tubing color


----------



## Scorpion49

My temporary setup until my res and other parts get here. Major overkill on pumps for a single CPU block though


















I like LED lights... can you tell? Blue on the CPU block was just for fun to spice it up a little before I get more orange in there.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> My temporary setup until my res and other parts get here. Major overkill on pumps for a single CPU block though


Nice build, you should post it Here since it's an XSPC build.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Nice build, you should post it Here since it's an XSPC build.


....in the Computer Room thread?


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> ....in the Computer Room thread?


Haha, sorry. Cut/paste wrong tab.

/edited


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> @keru - just wow. so clean. please show a pic of the backside of the mobo tray too. interested in the fittings and your routing behind the tray.
> @ikem - nice build. the front and the piece of diamond plate really give it an industrial look - i like


@Keru I almost forgot, can you show me how it looks with the cover with acrylic window? Thanks


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Dam that LD case is HUGE! Very nice build Keru


----------



## _REAPER_

Let me know what you guys think I know it is only a H100.


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keru*
> 
> Hi, I'm new to the forum and wanted to share my pc with you.
> A Greeting.
> pics


Great build.


----------



## Keru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Este bien senor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the look of that setup.


Thank you.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No ahi problema amigo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which radiators are you running?


3x480 Black ice Sr1








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Wow, uhh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This "is" an absolutely gorgeous looking watering cooling build! I have been drooling over this build for the last 20 minutes while on the phone and my friend asked me if I was busy or something, drool factor is high! Is that an LD-V8 and are all of those 480 radiators? I own two SR-1 560's and am a Hardware Labs person for life, build quality is off the charts! I just purchased a Case Labs STH10 and almost purchased the LD-V8!


Thank you very much for the comment. If they are all 3 x 480.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> @keru - just wow. so clean. please show a pic of the backside of the mobo tray too. interested in the fittings and your routing behind the tray.


Thank you. Sorry about the photo, I have now.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> @Keru I almost forgot, can you show me how it looks with the cover with acrylic window? Thanks


Ok












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Great build.


Thank you.


----------



## driftingforlife

Awsome build man.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> OCN put up the front money, all the purchase money for the fans went to OCN- the money that went to FTW was for additional T-shirts for Syrillian, shipping and anything else that was going to be combined into the shipment. That's part of the problem, OCN agreed to be the middleman and it's gotten bumpy since FTW got involved (voluntarily) to handle the shipping.


Thanks for the re-confirmation Salt. It was pretty difficult to discern when you're late to the party like I was.

So it looks as though the mod gave me some disinformation to shut me up on my Group Buy. Oh well.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Let me know what you guys think I know it is only a H100.


So when you gonna put your loop back together Reaper? You went with that Hydro Series cooler so your wife wouldn't have to pull maintenance duty. Are you back for good or are you leaving this as standing orders for now?









~Ceadder


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keru*
> 
> Thank you. Sorry about the photo, I have now.


Very nice Keru. Way to think "behind the box"


----------



## Eyedea

Sort of finished this yesterday tea time.........from say 10am til 7pm I say sort of, as annoyingly, somehow i managed to fit the fans so they pull and not push, which really pull doesnt work that well with this case, really annoyed at that, but will have to wait til next weekend to remedy it. Also, really unimpressed by the EK fittings. They are a real ball ache to use, the tubing is so tight on the barb and its almost impossible to get more than a couple of turns on the compression bit............they will be getting ditched asap!!! Also have some LED strips that need fitting somewhere.

Anyway heres a few pics. Ahh, nearly forgot to say that this Mayhems pastel blue is really something else, quality stuff!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks for the re-confirmation Salt. It was pretty difficult to discern when you're late to the party like I was.
> So it looks as though the mod gave me some disinformation to shut me up on my Group Buy. Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So when you gonna put your loop back together Reaper? You went with that Hydro Series cooler so your wife wouldn't have to pull maintenance duty. Are you back for good or are you leaving this as standing orders for now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


DEPLOYING AGAIN in 30 days. I have a custom loop in mind but I am going to yet again have to wait..


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks for the re-confirmation Salt. It was pretty difficult to discern when you're late to the party like I was.
> So it looks as though the mod gave me some disinformation to shut me up on my Group Buy. Oh well.


Pretty sure none of the mods would deliberately misinform you... There was a lot of confusion in the middle of the fan buy, I was in early and paid attention to the saga so I'm happy to clarify.


----------



## threephi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks for the re-confirmation Salt. It was pretty difficult to discern when you're late to the party like I was.
> So it looks as though the mod gave me some disinformation to shut me up on my Group Buy. Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well it's entirely possible that the rules for the fan buy were different since it was "official" i.e. run by OCN staff. I think it's reasonable to want more stringent financial assurances and guarantees for a non-staffer to use OCN to organize a group buy they do not control. A little ironic though considering how screwed up the "official" buy ended up.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

not the sexiest rig, but for a folding workhorse it'll do.

Not really liking the color of the primitochill uv red tubing, any suggestions for a tubing that is a bit more crimson red?


----------



## Bouf0010

i gotta a question for you guys - ive been noticing that theres always tiny bubbles in my res (frozenq 400mm). Everytime i manage to get them mostly gone, they keep reappearing. Could this be caused by a leak? I cant seem to find ANYWHERE in the loop where it feels wet (and ive been obsessively checking all the fittings and anywhere else it could potentially leak.

Is this normal? Could it be caused by temperature increase/decreases in the liquid? Im running E-coolant and the loop hasnt been drained in a couple months now.

Any suggestions/help would be appreciated


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> i gotta a question for you guys - ive been noticing that theres always tiny bubbles in my res (frozenq 400mm). Everytime i manage to get them mostly gone, they keep reappearing. Could this be caused by a leak? I cant seem to find ANYWHERE in the loop where it feels wet (and ive been obsessively checking all the fittings and anywhere else it could potentially leak.
> Is this normal? Could it be caused by temperature increase/decreases in the liquid? Im running E-coolant and the loop hasnt been drained in a couple months now.
> Any suggestions/help would be appreciated


There might still be some air left in your loop somewhere slowly moving to your res.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> There might still be some air left in your loop somewhere slowly moving to your res.


this. Shake ur rig a little bit, tilt it forward/backward and left/right.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Yeah, that's what the bottle says, but I did and it's working fine. No sedation or clumping. The solute ratios remain constant if you just add distilled, so I don't understand why (other than to make us buy more) they say diluting the solution will cause sedation. You can get 5-7 Liters of opaque white out of one Liter of Ice Dragon.
> 
> 
> 
> I attempted to dilute it today. You can definitely tell that it has been diluted. It doesn't look near as solid of a white. However it works pretty good for dyes. This is a 1 to 5 ratio of IDC:water. Then about 7-8ml of Mayhems red.
Click to expand...











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Relttem*
> 
> Hi everyone..I am not sure if I am responding to one of the posts on here correctly, BUT, you really REALLY have to be careful about diluting Ice Dragon. There is a lot going on when we mix that has to be kept within a limit or the surfactant will deteriorate and you'll end up with clumping over time. This might not happen immediately, but if you turn off your computer for a day or two it might settle out and WILL NOT mix back.....just some fair warning..
> 
> rock on..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> check this out it will help ya doing your project. how you to use Dupi-Color Chrome Paint


Thanks









I just bought a can at O'Riley's. A little bit pricey at $7 since Krylon has a "Metallic Silver" paint at walmart for $3. But it seems like the krylon stuff is not that shiny/silvery.

Anyways, should I use a lacquer to seal the chrome coat? I've used lacquers before and the go glossy and loose any shine to the paint. It should be fine without any clear coat?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought a can at O'Riley's. A little bit pricey at $7 since Krylon has a "Metallic Silver" paint at walmart for $3. But it seems like the krylon stuff is not that shiny/silvery.
> Anyways, should I use a lacquer to seal the chrome coat? I've used lacquers before and the go glossy and loose any shine to the paint. It should be fine without any clear coat?


I wouldn't clear coat it.


----------



## Systemlord

@Keru How did you get that two tone look on the tubing and what brand tubing is that?


----------



## jagz

I need to stop reading this thread, I get super jelly.

What type of upkeep am I looking at if I just do a CPU block? How often am I going to have to drain/clean and whatever you guys do?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I need to stop reading this thread, I get super jelly.
> 
> What type of upkeep am I looking at if I just do a CPU block? How often am I going to have to drain/clean and whatever you guys do?


Start reading








http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling-essential-threads


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> Not really liking the color of the primitochill uv red tubing, any suggestions for a tubing that is a bit more crimson red?


I don't think you'll have much luck finding blood-red tubing. The vast majority of people going for that look use dyes. E.G:


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I don't think you'll have much luck finding blood-red tubing. The vast majority of people going for that look use dyes. E.G:


daaaaamn i know. That stuff looks so amazing.....







I was looking at fesser UV red and it has a much nice color/transparency than primochill. I might try that out before going to dyes


----------



## HyDrokid

Wanted to show off my new rig somewhere...
Thought this was an appropriate place


[
URL=http://www.overclock.net/image/id/1936688/width/600/height/448]







[/URL]


----------



## axipher

Fully completed upgrade from H100:

List of ordered WC parts:

EK Supreme HF Black Acetyl
MCP350 pump
XSPC RX240
XSPC RS240
Black Ice Pro 120
Swiftech Microres



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Farmer Boe

Interesting idea with the ram fan over the heatsink there.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Interesting idea with the ram fan over the heatsink there.


ummm... no

the new mobos have RAM on both sides of th cpu socket. so he is cooling RAM on both sides.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Interesting idea with the ram fan over the heatsink there.


Looks and function, ASRock chose a rather inefficient design for their heat sinks. They look great, but consist of thick fins, with lots of space, and overall little surface area for disapating heat, so VRM throttling was kicking in and reducing my multiplier, even with all the options turned off in BIOS.

So with the lack of an air cooler blowing air over the VRM's, this was required if I wanted to overclock.

I also find they look quite nice in a pair like that though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Interesting idea with the ram fan over the heatsink there.
> 
> 
> 
> ummm... no
> 
> the new mobos have RAM on both sides of th cpu socket. so he is cooling RAM on both sides.
Click to expand...

It's AMD 990 FX... But correct, the new Intel boards have RAM on both sides.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Looks and function, ASRock chose a rather inefficient design for their heat sinks. They look great, but consist of thick fins, with lots of space, and overall little surface area for disapating heat, so VRM throttling was kicking in and reducing my multiplier, even with all the options turned off in BIOS.
> So with the lack of an air cooler blowing air over the VRM's, this was required if I wanted to overclock.
> I also find they look quite nice in a pair like that though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's AMD 990 FX... But correct, the new Intel boards have RAM on both sides.


oops there i go always assuming intel. no fanboy here but stuck my foot in my mouth for sure lol.

rig looks good ax!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Looks and function, ASRock chose a rather inefficient design for their heat sinks. They look great, but consist of thick fins, with lots of space, and overall little surface area for disapating heat, so VRM throttling was kicking in and reducing my multiplier, even with all the options turned off in BIOS.
> So with the lack of an air cooler blowing air over the VRM's, this was required if I wanted to overclock.
> I also find they look quite nice in a pair like that though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's AMD 990 FX... But correct, the new Intel boards have RAM on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> oops there i go always assuming intel. no fanboy here but stuck my foot in my mouth for sure lol.
> 
> rig looks good ax!
Click to expand...

No problem, and thanks









I might be doing a mini custom loop for my mATX build, Project Maple Leaf in my sig. Not quite sure yet though as all I have space for is a 120 mm RAD so I can't see it being worthwhile over an enclosed loop for the price. I might upgrade the Coolit Eco to a H80 though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> No problem, and thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might be doing a mini custom loop for my mATX build, Project Maple Leaf in my sig. Not quite sure yet though as all I have space for is a 120 mm RAD so I can't see it being worthwhile over an enclosed loop for the price. I might upgrade the Coolit Eco to a H80 though.


Any plans to put the gpu on water? Looks great btw and I recognize that RX240


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> No problem, and thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might be doing a mini custom loop for my mATX build, Project Maple Leaf in my sig. Not quite sure yet though as all I have space for is a 120 mm RAD so I can't see it being worthwhile over an enclosed loop for the price. I might upgrade the Coolit Eco to a H80 though.
> 
> 
> 
> Any plans to put the gpu on water? Looks great btw and I recognize that RX240
Click to expand...

Hehe, no you don't, you have never seen that RAD before in your life...

And that GPU right is not leaving the cold hands of that VF3000A, it's going in my LAN rig and I'll be getting a 7970 to put under water for the rig I posted (Canary Red in my sig)


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

@axipher

Fuarrrkkkk! That's a whole lot of RAD for a cpu loop!







Get that 7970 under water asap







. Personally I think your rig would look less cluttered and nicer without that ram fan, especially in a mid tower.


----------



## Ceadderman

Holy OCNNNNNNNNNNNNNN







axipher chum that's what a 700 for just the CPU. That thing better be running 1c for that much cooling space.









At least you'll be ready when it comes time to cool your GPU.









On the RAM cooler front, I had one and sold it cause with the two open slots, the thing would have force fed dust into them. So I sold the Dominator Cooler. Then later on when I increased RAM per channel I sold my Doms. Now I want to go back to Doms to put them under water and give me a better chance at a stable Clock when I get this beasty under water.
















You probably don't need the coolers. They look cool but they're good at sucking excess dust into the case as well.


















~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Holy OCNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> axipher chum that's what a 700 for just the CPU. That thing better be running 1c for that much cooling space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least you'll be ready when it comes time to cool your GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the RAM cooler front, I had one and sold it cause with the two open slots, the thing would have force fed dust into them. So I sold the Dominator Cooler. Then later on when I increased RAM per channel I sold my Doms. Now I want to go back to Doms to put them under water and give me a better chance at a stable Clock when I get this beasty under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You probably don't need the coolers. They look cool but they're good at sucking excess dust into the case as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ram blocks are bling







. A fan should be plenty if you are going for ram high oc'ing (ie, suicide runs). I had planned one for my 690 and current build but doms are still kinda pricey and they're not the greatest sticks around tbh. My mb don't like my current set so I'm planning to get some decent oc'ing g.skills


----------



## axipher

The one on the VRM's is mandatory to keep the VRM's fomr overheating due to a bad heat sink design on ASRock's part. The one on the RAM is just to match it lol.

As for 700 mm worth of RAD space, well I only ever planned on getting the RX240, but the other two were such good deals here on OCN as well I couldn't pass them up









As previously said though, I am more than ready for a 7970 under water when I have the funds, which probably won't be for a while...

I don't think it looks cluttered, I think it's damn sexy, the loop could use a little work, but I'll probably get either red or black tubing with the alternate colour as anti-kink coil. visit my Build log and vote on a colour


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> The one on the VRM's is mandatory to keep the VRM's fomr overheating due to a bad heat sink design on ASRock's part. The one on the RAM is just to match it lol.


Same thing with the Asus Crosshair IV Formula. With a tim swap, it helped dropped temps. In the most extreme cases where the vrm(s) where hovering in the high range, Asus started replacing them with a revised one. Some folks, including me, went with the EK block.

Get asus probe II and keep and eye on your temps. Vrm(s) are designed to take some heat but if yours is tad on the high side, inquire if they can swap it out. I haven't heard of any vrm overheating issues with any of the current mb out there.


----------



## axipher

The ASRock heatsink is horrible, it gets hot so I know it's making good contact, the problem is the super thick and super wide fin spacing, next to no surface area for natural heat dissipation.

If there was a VRM block for my board, I would get it in a heartbeat.


----------



## sate200

my rig and building


----------



## morencyam

My latest revision

















crappy cell phone pics. didn't notice until I got on the pc


----------



## Shogo3232

[/quote]

NICE! when you going to WC the GPU?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ram blocks are bling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . A fan should be plenty if you are going for ram high oc'ing (ie, suicide runs). I had planned one for my 690 and current build but doms are still kinda pricey and they're not the greatest sticks around tbh. My mb don't like my current set so I'm planning to get some decent oc'ing g.skills


I have to say that my Doms were very nice. Although they were the AMD 1333 series. They were very forgiving in Clocking and their timings were flexible as hell. Although the newer ones may not be so much in either case. Still, gonna get another set and put em under water to add to Main and CPU cooling loop. Also Doms have come down a significant amount in prices lately. I saw a 2x4 1600 series kit for ~$90 at the Egg. I paid that much for my GSkill Sniper 1600s' back when they first came out. Actually they were $100, so imho they're probably worth getting another set. Though I'd like to get some 1866 series or 2000s'.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have to say that my Doms were very nice. Although they were the AMD 1333 series. They were very forgiving in Clocking and their timings were flexible as hell. Although the newer ones may not be so much in either case. Still, gonna get another set and put em under water to add to Main and CPU cooling loop. Also Doms have come down a significant amount in prices lately. I saw a 2x4 1600 series kit for ~$90 at the Egg. I paid that much for my GSkill Sniper 1600s' back when they first came out. Actually they were $100, so imho they're probably worth getting another set. Though I'd like to get some 1866 series or 2000s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


meh, those are GTs, why hide your super duper awesome power red heatsinks to show off you have Gts







.

At $43 for a set of regular doms (blues, 1600 cas 9), still is kinday pricey since you can get a set of g.skill 2133 for about the same. I'm looking for a decent set that will work with my mb. I' saw some Vipers 2133 at Frys for $35. Seems tempting but I'm not sure if my mb will be picky. Good thing there's one near by and I can returned them









http://www.frys.com/product/6674884?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogo3232*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NICE! when you going to WC the GPU?
Click to expand...

When I get an actual GPU for this beast, being held back by that 6870 that's in there now.

That 6870 is actually going to be going in my mATX Xeon LAN Rig this week once my motherboard comes in (Project Maple Leaf in my sig). I'll only have my 9800 GTX+ in this main rig for now until I get the funds for a 7970 and water block, I'm still waiting on a 3+ mini-display port model though, preferably that 6 ports, 6 GB one teased by the Sapphire leaked document. The Asus Direct CUII looks like a candidate though as it has 4 mini-DP, but would need a waterblock for it.


----------



## vincent198

Ok, finally done since my last post i've been uprading alot.

New stuff:

New mobo
New amd fx 6100
laing ddc pump with res (hidden it)
new cpu heathkiller waterblock

And ive modded my fractical design xl case, first (i think) inverted atx fractical case ever?! and painted some parts red.


----------



## jaywar

My ram still gets me drooling


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> 
> My ram still gets me drooling


I is ram jelli







All that money in the GT doms, why no water for your GTX 570?


----------



## jaywar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I is ram jelli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that money in the GT doms, why no water for your GTX 570?


Waiting on kepler to get some 680s. Would I benefit from keeping my 570 and using it as a physx card? If so I'd get a block for it.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> Waiting on kepler to get some 680s. Would I benefit from keeping my 570 and using it as a physx card? If so I'd get a block for it.


It's way overpowered for a PhysX card. You'd be better off selling it, buying a cheaper card, then buying a waterblock for your 680(s).


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> It's way overpowered for a PhysX card. You'd be better off selling it, buying a cheaper card, then buying a waterblock for your 680(s).


In today's world, you're better off not even using a PhysX card. Too low of a card, and it will be far worse than not using a dedicated card at all. Plus, very few games actually use PhysX.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> In today's world, you're better off not even using a PhysX card. Too low of a card, and it will be far worse than not using a dedicated card at all. Plus, very few games actually use PhysX.


I know if you have a GTX 580 you have to have at least a 460 for it to be better then the 580 by itself.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> It's way overpowered for a PhysX card. You'd be better off selling it, buying a cheaper card, then buying a waterblock for your 680(s).
> 
> 
> 
> In today's world, you're better off not even using a PhysX card. Too low of a card, and it will be far worse than not using a dedicated card at all. *Plus, very few games actually use PhysX*.
Click to expand...

Yeah I don't know about that AB. Seems like every game I own that isn't S.T.A.L.K.E.R. has PhysX included.









Still I do agree that it would be a waste of a 570 to use as a PhysX card. If you have the money to spend on a 570, a dedicated Card would be so much better.









~Ceadder


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Well, I just finished my loop with a Raystorm, EX240 and a XSPC bay res with MCP655 2 days ago.

And the bay res/pump is making some noise like water flowing through it after like 30 seconds or minutes of being silent. I tried removing all the bubbles that I can. So what is the cause of this noise? Maybe some air left inside?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Well, I just finished my loop with a Raystorm, EX240 and a XSPC bay res with MCP655 2 days ago.
> And the bay res/pump is making some noise like water flowing through it after like 30 seconds or minutes of being silent. I tried removing all the bubbles that I can. So what is the cause of this noise? Maybe some air left inside?


That's my guess. Have you tried tilting your case every-which-way? Air can get stuck in the radiators.


----------



## Shogon

What I finished doing this morning.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I finished doing this morning.


Is that a huge kink I see there?


----------



## Tipless

i think its a reflection lol in the bigger pic it doesnt look as bad


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> i think its a reflection lol in the bigger pic it doesnt look as bad


Still, shortening that tube wouldn't be the worst idea. Looks pretty good Mr. Shogon.


----------



## McDown

Finishing new build...


----------



## jackofhearts495

What paint did you use on your GT's? I'm looking for a nice, durable red...

Stunning build by the way.


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> What paint did you use on your GT's? I'm looking for a nice, durable red...
> Stunning build by the way.


Thanks. I used Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric Coating


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Thanks. I used Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric Coating


How well is it holding up?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Finishing new build...


Hmm, thought tap water was a big no-no, even if you're just rinsing out your gear







Distilled is cheap enough that I have a few spare gallon jugs that I use to rinse my parts with.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmm, thought tap water was a big no-no, even if you're just rinsing out your gear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Distilled is cheap enough that I have a few spare gallon jugs that I use to rinse my parts with.


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> How well is it holding up?


Very good. The first batch I painted almost a year ago.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmm, thought tap water was a big no-no, even if you're just rinsing out your gear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Distilled is cheap enough that I have a few spare gallon jugs that I use to rinse my parts with.


I rinsed few times with distilled water after.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Well, I just finished my loop with a Raystorm, EX240 and a XSPC bay res with MCP655 2 days ago.
> 
> And the bay res/pump is making some noise like water flowing through it after like 30 seconds or minutes of being silent. I tried removing all the bubbles that I can. So what is the cause of this noise? Maybe some air left inside?


Give it time, I'm sure its air. It took mine about a month to all the air out.


----------



## -javier-

my loop,


----------



## moa.

I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering about this fan just hanging there


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering about this fan just hanging there


its probably to keep the VRM's cool.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> its probably to keep the VRM's cool.


Sometimes you need a fan there to get turbulence in your case with water (no CPU fan). It can be useful, but doesn't mean it's not ugly. Otherwise, the dual 580 looks great!

Javier, what's under your 120GB SSD?


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Sometimes you need a fan there to get turbulence in your case with water (no CPU fan). It can be useful, but doesn't mean it's not ugly. Otherwise, the dual 580 looks great!


LOL if you think that is ugly you should have seen what i had to do with my case to keep my graphics card cool (fans hanging from a H100 on zipties anyone) It was UGLY will be posting pics of the loop soon.

That was before watercooling


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Sometimes you need a fan there to get turbulence in your case with water (no CPU fan). It can be useful, but doesn't mean it's not ugly. Otherwise, the dual 580 looks great!
> Javier, what's under your 120GB SSD?


looks to be a 360mm rad


----------



## sate200

finish my rig!!!


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finish my rig!!!


did you finish your rig?

or

would you like us to finish it?

or

your rig is finnish?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> looks to be a 360mm rad


Before the rad. It says "Corsair" on it.


----------



## -javier-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> looks to be a 360mm rad


correct lol thats a 360mm radiator, and yes the fan in the middle is to keep the vrm cool and it helped a lot. a rig is a rig


----------



## SweetAndLow

I'll throw mine in here. I just added new tubing, compression fittings and some AP-15's


----------



## a11an

SweetAndLow.That is looking really good! Simple and clean.


----------



## SweetAndLow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> SweetAndLow.That is looking really good! Simple and clean.


Thanks! It is my first time water cooling or building a computer for that matter. I'm still learning lots and making improvements. Next up is getting the 24pin and pci-e power cables braided and looking better. The cpu power is braided already but you can't see that in any of the pictures.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Couple of pics of the case I'm having built. I'll have a plate for the mb to rest on to seperate the rads from the mb. Going to cut some holes in it to route tubing and wires. It will be able to hold 2 360 rads and 3 480 rads and 1 120 underneather, but I'll be only installing the 2 front 480's and 2 side 360's leaving the back for exhaust fans. I may also cut some holes to put some LED's in the mid panel possibly, but unsure about it currently. Also going to have two bitspower 150ml res's mounted on the either side of the mb tray on the back. What do you guys think? Wanting to make this as epic of a case as possible!!!


----------



## Farmer Boe

You could just buy a Mountain mods case...You've designed its twin.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> You could just buy a Mountain mods case...You've designed its twin.


That's who's making it. I have a ascension currently and like it other than the fact that my rads raise the ambient of the case. I don't like the look of a pedastal but like how it isolates the heat from the computer components. With this it is basically a case with a built in pedistal.

sent from galaxy II


----------



## DrJns

Balls. Just purchased a 7950 and need to get a water block. EK is what I had for my 570, but I just read this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1035356/official-ek-statement-nickel-plating-issues/0_50

I prefer nickle because of the color. Should I go with the slightly less attractive Koolance block, or has this problem been fixed?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> That's who's making it. I have a ascension currently and like it other than the fact that my rads raise the ambient of the case. I don't like the look of a pedastal but like how it isolates the heat from the computer components. With this it is basically a case with a built in pedistal.
> sent from galaxy II


Why no CaseLabs? Better build quality than MM imho. I do like the option that MM gives you to custom make a case though. They making it out of aluminum or acrylic?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> That's who's making it. I have a ascension currently and like it other than the fact that my rads raise the ambient of the case. I don't like the look of a pedastal but like how it isolates the heat from the computer components. With this it is basically a case with a built in pedistal.
> sent from galaxy II
> 
> 
> 
> Why no CaseLabs? Better build quality than MM imho. I do like the option that MM gives you to custom make a case though. They making it out of aluminum or acrylic?
Click to expand...

I had a m8 before. Liked it but wanted a horizontal MB. It will be all aluminum and powdercoated.
Clear acrylic on top and side windows.
sent from galaxy II


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> I had a m8 before. Liked it but wanted a horizontal MB. It will be all aluminum and powdercoated.
> Clear acrylic on top and side windows.
> sent from galaxy II


That's right you sold that M8.

Nice







. What color are you thinking of powder coating it?


----------



## thrasherht

so I decided to change out my tubing today since my LRT was getting cloudy. I went with watts 1/2in clear based on info wermad posted.
here is the results.
BEFORE:


AFTER: Without water

With water.


here is a comparison of the old tubing vs the new tubing. I have picked the generic watts from menards because of the problems people have been having with primochill. Wermad tested the watts and had good luck with it, so I decided to try it. Plus you can't really beat 5 dollars for 10ft.


----------



## axipher

I'm running Watts tubing as well SVLI10 to be exact, no problems with it yet.


----------



## wermad

I'm running black Watts. I picked up a second roll of clear it that started clouding immediately. I tossed the first roll (or pieces of that roll) sadly


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm running Watts tubing as well SVLI10 to be exact, no problems with it yet.


I'm running one section of watt's from Homedepot also, watch it guys. It gets BAD. my watts is so cloudy you can not see through it at all.
doesnt seem to effect the rest of the loop but it looks awful.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> I'm running one section of watt's from Homedepot also, watch it guys. It gets BAD. my watts is so cloudy you can not see through it at all.
> doesnt seem to effect the rest of the loop but it looks awful.


Well then it will get bad, I am not too worried. I am planning on doing a full break down of my system once I am done with this term of school, so I will see what it does.

EDIT:......why is there a picture that doesn't show up in your post, but shows up in my quote? lol.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's right you sold that M8.
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What color are you thinking of powder coating it?


Thinkin this and playing with the idea of doing some pin stripeing or airbrushing to the outside, but ill see what it looks like put together before I consider it.


----------



## DrJns

I was having the same problem so ordered this earlier today: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10693/ex-tub-665/Tygon_2375_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Tubing_-_12_ID_34_OD_-_Clear_AJK00038.html?id=vXFIFYPd&mv_pc=161

We'll see how it goes.


----------



## DevilDriver

^^^^ hmm not sure, I see the picture in my post. yea. I'm about to tear my loop apart and do some changes, but also I havent noticed it effect any thing.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I was having the same problem so ordered this earlier today: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10693/ex-tub-665/Tygon_2375_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Tubing_-_12_ID_34_OD_-_Clear_AJK00038.html?id=vXFIFYPd&mv_pc=161
> We'll see how it goes.


yea that is too expensive for my blood. I will stick with the cheap stuff. Plus I like tearing the loop down every once in a while, so crappy tubing gives me an excuse to do it.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> yea that is too expensive for my blood. I will stick with the cheap stuff. Plus I like tearing the loop down every once in a while, so crappy tubing gives me an excuse to do it.


Understandable. My Primochill went cloudy in a few days, so it would have cost a fortune to keep replacing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Understandable. My Primochill went cloudy in a few days, so it would have cost a fortune to keep replacing.


I just went ahead and used the roll of black Watts tube i picked from HD a few weeks ago since I had a feeling this was going to happen some time soon with the clear version. I didn't expect the new roll to give quicker than the first clear Watts roll I bought







. I also have a nagging feeling primochill won't get back to me any time soon on replacing my tube


----------



## superericla

I've had great success with my Primochill UV Red. No clouding and it's been in and running 24/7 for over a month.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I've had great success with my Primochill UV Red. No clouding and it's been in and running 24/7 for over a month.


The clear tube (many brands) is the one the clouds but this "build-up" or "film" can happen on colored tube. It looks whitish or brownish. Only obvious thing is you can immediately see it since its colored tubing. If you have any concerns, just drain your loop and then check the inside of a few pieces of tube.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The clear tube (many brands) is the one the clouds but this "build-up" or "film" can happen on colored tube. It looks whitish or brownish. Only obvious thing is you can immediately see it since its colored tubing. If you have any concerns, just drain your loop and then check the inside of a few pieces of tube.


I also saw the black Watts at my Home Depot. Did yours have the white 1ft marks on it? If so, did you cut around them or does it easily wipe off?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The clear tube (many brands) is the one the clouds but this "build-up" or "film" can happen on colored tube. It looks whitish or brownish. Only obvious thing is you can immediately see it since its colored tubing. If you have any concerns, just drain your loop and then check the inside of a few pieces of tube.


Well, I just got a QDC in the mail today so I took my loop apart a bit and opened up some tubing. No build-up or 'film' of any kind is present in my loop, even when trying scratching the inside of the tubing with a knife.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> I also saw the black Watts at my Home Depot. Did yours have the white 1ft marks on it? If so, did you cut around them or does it easily wipe off?


The black ones didn't have any markings on them. Just a quick wipe down to remove the glue from the label and the tape holding it. I got it for $3 (10ft roll).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well, I just got a QDC in the mail today so I took my loop apart a bit and opened up some tubing. No build-up or 'film' of any kind is present in my loop, even when trying scratching the inside of the tubing with a knife.


Kewl









This is the first time it happened with Primochill tube. They have been the only tube company I've used. Not know anymore.


----------



## 1rkrage

Anyone use the Koolance silver tubing? is it any good?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The black ones didn't have any markings on them. Just a quick wipe down to remove the glue from the label and the tape holding it. I got it for $3 (10ft roll).


Same price as it is here, but both the black and clear have markings at 1ft. The black tube has white marks, the clear tube has a gray dot pattern.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Same price as it is here, but both the black and clear have markings at 1ft. The black tube has white marks, the clear tube has a gray dot pattern.


With a little acetone, it should come off.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can someone tell me what the exterior thread diameter of the Bitspower Passthrough Fitting is? I can't find this information anywhere. And I'm assuming that everyone is cut/pasting the information straight from BP. I'd like to run 2 of them in my PSU blockoff plate w/o increasing the openings if I don't have to. Well I guess what I mean to say is that if I run an exterior Radiator that's what I would like to do. So if someone knows, it would be much appreciated.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Same price as it is here, but both the black and clear have markings at 1ft. The black tube has white marks, the clear tube has a gray dot pattern.


is the clear UV reactive?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can someone tell me what the exterior thread diameter of the Bitspower Passthrough Fitting is? I can't find this information anywhere. And I'm assuming that everyone is cut/pasting the information straight from BP. I'd like to run 2 of them in my PSU blockoff plate w/o increasing the openings if I don't have to. Well I guess what I mean to say is that if I run an exterior Radiator that's what I would like to do. So if someone knows, it would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


7/8 ( 22mm) i used Dewalt READY Hole Saw to make my top Fill port and my Drain line


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can someone tell me what the exterior thread diameter of the Bitspower Passthrough Fitting is? I can't find this information anywhere. And I'm assuming that everyone is cut/pasting the information straight from BP. I'd like to run 2 of them in my PSU blockoff plate w/o increasing the openings if I don't have to. Well I guess what I mean to say is that if I run an exterior Radiator that's what I would like to do. So if someone knows, it would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7/8 ( 22mm) i used Dewalt READY Hole Saw to make my top Fill port and my Drain line
Click to expand...

Yeah that won't work for my application cause I only need enlarge existing holes. No cinchability with the internal bit. Thanks for giving me the actual size though. +Rep.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> is the clear UV reactive?


No idea. I didn't buy any as the clamps I bought for my barbs were for 5/8" OD tubing. My local Home Depot only had 3/8 x 1/2 and 1/2 x 3/4.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah that won't work for my application cause I only need enlarge existing holes. No cinchability with the internal bit. Thanks for giving me the actual size though. +Rep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


How about a fill port?


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> Anyone use the Koolance silver tubing? is it any good?


I don't know if this will help you:

I'm not using Koolance, but my Tygon 0.75" OD / 0.5" ID silver tubing has done well for me. It's not overly stiff, and it seems like it would resist kinking well. The silver coating is on the inside of the clear tubing giving it a nice sheen under any light.

If you're not too attached to Koolance tubing, you might try giving the Tygon a shot.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah that won't work for my application cause I only need enlarge existing holes. No cinchability with the internal bit. Thanks for giving me the actual size though. +Rep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


unibit


----------



## wermad

Step drill bits work great on sheet-metal cases. I ended up using a wood bit on my acrylic case. Not the best approached and I went a bit too fast with my new drill. I should have used the slower drill press tbh since I chipped it a bit. It did the trick though for my fill port. Once installed you cant see the rough end of the hole the bit left.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can someone tell me what the exterior thread diameter of the Bitspower Passthrough Fitting is? I can't find this information anywhere. And I'm assuming that everyone is cut/pasting the information straight from BP. I'd like to run 2 of them in my PSU blockoff plate w/o increasing the openings if I don't have to. Well I guess what I mean to say is that if I run an exterior Radiator that's what I would like to do. So if someone knows, it would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's 24mm across on the actual fitting, while the passthrough portion (threaded bit) is 19mm across. I used a step-drill bit as well - works beautifully since it leaves you with a clean deburred edge.


----------



## poly359

@thrasherht
I Noticed that you use clear water, do Other Water Coolants such as this one:
http://austin.net.au/ProductList/ProductDetail/tabid/104/Default.aspx?ProductCode=CLTTCLW0148++
have any difference in temps and Heat Capacity?


----------



## Bradey

Click to view full size!


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradey*
> 
> 
> Click to view full size!


can you say cramped...

good job fitting all that in there


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I don't know if this will help you:
> I'm not using Koolance, but my Tygon 0.75" OD / 0.5" ID silver tubing has done well for me. It's not overly stiff, and it seems like it would resist kinking well. The silver coating is on the inside of the clear tubing giving it a nice sheen under any light.
> If you're not too attached to Koolance tubing, you might try giving the Tygon a shot.


ah no, I'm not too attached to any tubing company. I'm still debating what color I'm going to finally order when the time comes, (It will probably be dependent on my mood when I wake up







) I just found these sick tubes colored metallic silver on dazmode's yt videos. (it's not the silver coating







) Wonder if anyone had any issues with these:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_455&products_id=24995


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poly359*
> 
> @thrasherht
> I Noticed that you use clear water, do Other Water Coolants such as this one:
> http://austin.net.au/ProductList/ProductDetail/tabid/104/Default.aspx?ProductCode=CLTTCLW0148++
> have any difference in temps and Heat Capacity?


I have only ever used distilled water with a kill coil.

Distilled is suppose to have the best heat capacity. The coolants like the one you linked have additives to help prevent corrosion, and that lowers the heat capacity. So only use them if you need the corrosion resistance.
Like if you refill your H series, then you use stuff like that.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> I have only ever used distilled water with a kill coil.
> Distilled is suppose to have the best heat capacity. The coolants like the one you linked have additives to help prevent corrosion, and that lowers the heat capacity. So only use them if you need the corrosion resistance.
> Like if you refill your H series, then you use stuff like that.


+1 to this

if you know for %100 taht your loop only has copper in it (rads, blocks, etc.) then all you should need is distilled. there are several Koolance rads that are aluminum and some blocks from different manufacturers are aluminum as well. the rad used in the H series all in ones are aluminum and that is why you need an anticorrosive


----------



## poly359

Awesome, thanks thrasherht & Tipless
+1 thrasherht








My H60 is starting to play up, its making a hard drive inter-static ticking noise...Like This: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1Nk4oP4YHg
Replacing it on warranty
Again, thanks for the help XD


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Balls. Just purchased a 7950 and need to get a water block. EK is what I had for my 570, but I just read this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1035356/official-ek-statement-nickel-plating-issues/0_50
> I prefer nickle because of the color. Should I go with the slightly less attractive Koolance block, or has this problem been fixed?


I believe as long as you purchase the EN version of their nickel blocks you will be fine.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Balls. Just purchased a 7950 and need to get a water block. EK is what I had for my 570, but I just read this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1035356/official-ek-statement-nickel-plating-issues/0_50
> I prefer nickle because of the color. Should I go with the slightly less attractive Koolance block, or has this problem been fixed?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> I believe as long as you purchase the EN version of their nickel blocks you will be fine.


It hasn't been stated either way, however, do note that nickel plating is an incredibly difficult process and its pretty much guaranteed some of them won't work.

Also, the EK FC-7950 isn't ready yet, Monday though!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Balls. Just purchased a 7950 and need to get a water block. EK is what I had for my 570, but I just read this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1035356/official-ek-statement-nickel-plating-issues/0_50
> I prefer nickle because of the color. Should I go with the slightly less attractive Koolance block, or has this problem been fixed?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> I believe as long as you purchase the EN version of their nickel blocks you will be fine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It hasn't been stated either way, however, do note that nickel plating is an incredibly difficult process and its pretty much guaranteed some of them won't work.
> 
> Also, the EK FC-7950 isn't ready yet, Monday though!
Click to expand...

Nor the FC-7770. Of course I blame this on AMD by dropping the 7770 before the 7890.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nor the FC-7770. Of course I blame this on AMD by dropping the 7770 before the 7890.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Do they have plans for the 77xx? I figured that would be more of a universal heatsink card :/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> I believe as long as you purchase the EN version of their nickel blocks you will be fine.


The EK nickel issue affects the EN blocks too,better to avoid the plated blocks and stick to sexy Cu!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nor the FC-7770. Of course I blame this on AMD by dropping the 7770 before the 7890.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There wont be a 7770 Fullcover,probably due to the fact its a entry level card that runs cool to begin with
Try Liquid Extasy for that


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The EK nickel issue affects the EN blocks too,better to avoid the plated blocks and stick to sexy Cu!


The number of issues (reported atleast) has come down significantly since the release of the EN products. IMO the nickel blocks are superior to the copper blocks (aesthetically).









If you've seen recent reports of flaking issues, could you link them please.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> The number of issues (reported atleast) has come down significantly since the release of the EN products. IMO the nickel blocks are superior to the copper blocks (aesthetically).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you've seen recent reports of flaking issues, could you link them please.


They are still happening,thats enough for me!
No-one else seems to have the plating issues EK have,im not saying 'dont use them' as i use them myself...just not the nickel plated versions


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Is that a huge kink I see there?


When I took the pic I immediately thought the same thing, sticking my face right next to it there isn't any bending/kinking at all. Just how the pic was taken (angled). Towards the RX240 on the bottom one of them prolly needs to be changed.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Also, the EK FC-7950 isn't ready yet, Monday though!


I'm going to use the 7970 block. Any reason I shouldn't?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> IMO the nickel blocks are superior to the copper blocks (*aesthetically*).


Couldn't agree more (for my build, at least).


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I'm going to use the 7970 block. Any reason I shouldn't?


It won't work









There's a lot of confusion stemmed from AMD on this. The 7950s for sale are not actual reference design. EK will have a 7950 block ready on Monday


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> It won't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot of confusion stemmed from AMD on this. The 7950s for sale are not actual reference design. EK will have a 7950 block ready on Monday


That presents a problem. Thank you for saving me what I'd lose to have to resell the block.

Does ready on Monday mean purchasable in the US on Monday?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> That presents a problem. Thank you for saving me what I'd lose to have to resell the block.
> Does ready on Monday mean purchasable in the US on Monday?


No problem, I have been talking to EK since the 7950s came out, been waiting for my blocks









I know that it will be in the EK shop, not sure if FrozenCPU/PerformancePCs will have it in stock then.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well that just sucks. They should make it because people who don't have the cash to put toward the higher end blocks will be left in the cold. It's not a matter of how hot they run, but more of how quiet I want my system dammit. If I can incorporate even a low buck card into my loop, whatdayathinkImado?







lol

EK made em for the 5770, and then dropped em for the 6*** series. Such a shame really because there are probably lots of people like me who would rather have a FC block than universal. Of course Universal are mountable on just about any GPU made, but that's not the point of the exercise.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that just sucks. They should make it because people who don't have the cash to put toward the higher end blocks will be left in the cold. It's not a matter of how hot they run, but more of how quiet I want my system dammit. If I can incorporate even a low buck card into my loop, whatdayathinkImado?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> EK made em for the 5770, and then dropped em for the 6*** series. Such a shame really because there are probably lots of people like me who would rather have a FC block than universal. Of course Universal are mountable on just about any GPU made, but that's not the point of the exercise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think the low end cards aren't loud enough to warrant blocks. The engineering time and work is probably too great of a cost to justify the small number of purchases compared to something like the 79xx blocks or even the 78xx blocks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that just sucks. They should make it because people who don't have the cash to put toward the higher end blocks will be left in the cold. It's not a matter of how hot they run, but more of how quiet I want my system dammit. If I can incorporate even a low buck card into my loop, whatdayathinkImado?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> EK made em for the 5770, and then dropped em for the 6*** series. Such a shame really because there are probably lots of people like me who would rather have a FC block than universal. Of course Universal are mountable on just about any GPU made, but that's not the point of the exercise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the low end cards aren't loud enough to warrant blocks. The engineering time and work is probably too great of a cost to justify the small number of purchases compared to something like the 79xx blocks or even the 78xx blocks.
Click to expand...

Having heard the Core R7770, I have to disagree about the dB. These things can get quite loud. It drowned out the stock cooler which was running at 100%. That's quite loud. Granted the newer fan is not as gratingly noisy as my 5770 hamster wheel but it's annoying enough.









Though I'm sure you're probably correct about cost vs sales. Still never really know unless you know the actual sales figures vs liquid cooling owners. EK should do another Poll on their site about this. The new site colors have been in place for long enough that that one is kind of pointless to ask people. Let the market dictate the demand not the manufacturer. Right?









I'm still probably going to go with the 7890, but being on a 5770 I can relate to the "Hey what about me" crowd.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Having heard the Core R7770, I have to disagree about the dB. These things can get quite loud. It drowned out the stock cooler which was running at 100%. That's quite loud. Granted the newer fan is not as gratingly noisy as my 5770 hamster wheel but it's annoying enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though I'm sure you're probably correct about cost vs sales. Still never really know unless you know the actual sales figures vs liquid cooling owners. EK should do another Poll on their site about this. The new site colors have been in place for long enough that that one is kind of pointless to ask people. Let the market dictate the demand not the manufacturer. Right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still probably going to go with the 7890, but being on a 5770 I can relate to the "Hey what about me" crowd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Pickup a gtx 470. Lots of blocks out there for it and it'll whoop a 5770


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No problem, I have been talking to EK since the 7950s came out, been waiting for my blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that it will be in the EK shop, not sure if FrozenCPU/PerformancePCs will have it in stock then.


I called FrozenCPU, and they can't order the 7950 blocks for another two weeks. About another week before they'll actually arrive. That means three weeks plus the time it takes to ship to my house.

I think I'm going to get the 7970.

I need to work on my patience and self-control.

Water-cooling is the worst hobby I've ever discovered.

The end.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I called FrozenCPU, and they can't order the 7950 blocks for another two weeks. About another week before they'll actually arrive. That means three weeks plus the time it takes to ship to my house.
> I think I'm going to get the 7970.
> I need to work on my patience and self-control.
> Water-cooling is the worst hobby I've ever discovered.
> The end.


Just order them directly from EK... Lol.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Just order them directly from EK... Lol.


The cost of shipping will be the difference in the cost of the 7970. I needed to order an 80mm tube for my res from them and shipping was going to be $32.

EDIT: Nevermind. Looks like it'll cost $40 to ship.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> The cost of shipping will be the difference in the cost of the 7970. I needed to order an 80mm tube for my res from them and shipping was going to be $32.
> EDIT: Nevermind. Looks like it'll cost $40 to ship.


Also, notice that you only pay $92 for a 7970 block, so after shipping and everything from FrozenCPU for the same block its $8 more to order from EK


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> The cost of shipping will be the difference in the cost of the 7970. I needed to order an 80mm tube for my res from them and shipping was going to be $32.


They used to have really low shipping. Once they went all fancy shmancy with their new site and retail boxes, I've noticed its gone up. I recall ordering a few bits a pieces and a heatsink for a 4870 block and shipping was $11.

You might want to try aquatuning.us. Shipping is around the same as the US retailers but there's a chance they may get the blocks first since they are in Deutschland. I know sometimes US retailers are slow to get new stuff from Europe (ie Raystorm), but they usually get stock a few weeks later.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Also, notice that you only pay $92 for a 7970 block, so after shipping and everything from FrozenCPU for the same block its $8 more to order from EK


You think you're SOOO smart, don't you?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> You think you're SOOO smart, don't you?


Yes, yes I do







Nah, I actually went through and added it to cart to see what it would really cost out of personal interest. Lucky for us Americans, we don't have the VAT so we get like $20+ knocked off the price


----------



## DevilDriver

You guys that got the black watts tubing from hd how much did you pay?
went to my local hd today to see about getting some, 1 they were out of 1/2" inner x 3/4" outer, but dang it is $12. the clear is only $6. I'm thinking there has to be a difference between the two aside from color for he black to be double the price.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> You guys that got the black watts tubing from hd how much did you pay?
> went to my local hd today to see about getting some, 1 they were out of 1/2" inner x 3/4" outer, but dang it is $12. the clear is only $6. I'm thinking there has to be a difference between the two aside from color for he black to be double the price.


$3 for 3/8x1/2, 10ft roll


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Having heard the Core R7770, I have to disagree about the dB. These things can get quite loud. It drowned out the stock cooler which was running at 100%. That's quite loud. Granted the newer fan is not as gratingly noisy as my 5770 hamster wheel but it's annoying enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though I'm sure you're probably correct about cost vs sales. Still never really know unless you know the actual sales figures vs liquid cooling owners. EK should do another Poll on their site about this. The new site colors have been in place for long enough that that one is kind of pointless to ask people. Let the market dictate the demand not the manufacturer. Right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still probably going to go with the 7890, but being on a 5770 I can relate to the "Hey what about me" crowd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Their reasoning would be that if you are spending £££ on a waterloop then you would of spent £££ on some decent cards...people with lower end cards dont tend to watercool


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pickup a gtx 470. Lots of blocks out there for it and it'll whoop a 5770


+1 or 2
lol

i have 2 of them and they run hhottt!!! but under water... no noise


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pickup a gtx 470. Lots of blocks out there for it and it'll whoop a 5770
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 or 2
> lol
> 
> i have 2 of them and they run hhottt!!! but under water... no noise
Click to expand...

5770 = > 460

5870 = < 470

5990 depending on the card is better than 480.

I already have the 5770 and have had it for nearly 2 years. It would be pointless to buy 470 when I can buy 7*** series GPU and whip 470 ass all day long.









Besides how'm I supposed to buy 470? I can't even finish my damn loop an all I basically need is a Radiator and some odd fittings.
















~Ceadder


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pickup a gtx 470. Lots of blocks out there for it and it'll whoop a 5770
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 or 2
> lol
> 
> i have 2 of them and they run hhottt!!! but under water... no noise
Click to expand...

I have two as well. How hot do you run?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 5770 = > 460
> 5870 = < 470
> 5990 depending on the card is better than 480.
> I already have the 5770 and have had it for nearly 2 years. It would be pointless to buy 470 when I can buy 7*** series GPU and whip 470 ass all day long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


470s are sleepers. These guys can clock high. Enough to give a 580 a run for its stock clock's money







. 470s are fairly equal after driver maturity to the 5870. Some tests the 470 beats the 5870 though its not a decisive win for either tbh. Keep in mind the 470 is seriously underclocked. Obviously a 79xx series will slaughter a 470 oc'd but its very comparable to the 78xx series. I'm sure 76xx should be the equals of your 5770. Bottom line, time for a high end card and stop playing with the budget cards. If you wanna stay with the red camp (







), I'm seeing quite a few 5870/5850s and blocks. Surely one 5850 with an ek block will be better than the 5770







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 5770 = > 460
> 5870 = < 470
> 5990 depending on the card is better than 480.
> I already have the 5770 and have had it for nearly 2 years. It would be pointless to buy 470 when I can buy 7*** series GPU and whip 470 ass all day long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 470s are sleepers. These guys can clock high. Enough to give a 580 a run for its stock clock's money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . 470s are fairly equal after driver maturity to the 5870. Some tests the 470 beats the 5870 though its not a decisive win for either tbh. Keep in mind the 470 is seriously underclocked. Obviously a 79xx series will slaughter a 470 oc'd but its very comparable to the 78xx series. I'm sure 76xx should be the equals of your 5770. Bottom line, time for a high end card and stop playing with the budget cards. If you wanna stay with the red camp (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I'm seeing quite a few 5870/5850s and blocks. Surely one 5850 with an ek block will be better than the 5770
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

I ninja'ed you.


















~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I ninja'ed you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Radeon-5870-with-installed-Koolance-GPU-block-/110832706152?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item19ce24e268


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have two as well. How hot do you run?


I run mid 50s under load.


----------



## Phiz66

Just got everything into my Switch 810. Here's my addiction.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phiz66*
> 
> Just got everything into my Switch 810. Here's my addiction.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful work man, your 24-pin rainbow is so clean, but your GPU's sleeving is all twisted :S


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phiz66*


That looks mind-blowingly sick with the UV.


----------



## Phiz66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Beautiful work man, your 24-pin rainbow is so clean, but your GPU's sleeving is all twisted :S


I got the 8" extensions and they barely make it behind the mobo tray so they're super tight.









I'll have to get some 12" one of these days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> That looks mind-blowingly sick with the UV.


Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I ninja'ed you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Radeon-5870-with-installed-Koolance-GPU-block-/110832706152?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item19ce24e268
Click to expand...

Only wish I had the funds to take care of this. But I don't have a sugar momma like you do.







lolz

I can't even afford my Radiator yet.









~Ceadder


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I ninja'ed you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Radeon-5870-with-installed-Koolance-GPU-block-/110832706152?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item19ce24e268
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Only wish I had the funds to take care of this. But I don't have a sugar momma like you do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lolz
> 
> I can't even afford my Radiator yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

OCN Marketplace man, I snagged 3 RADs for pretty damn cheap, even ended up paying less shipping then if I bought them new.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only wish I had the funds to take care of this. But I don't have a sugar momma like you do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lolz
> I can't even afford my Radiator yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sell that 5770 to get your funds going for a new gpu


----------



## pwnzilla61

I should be getting my rasa360 extreme kit in tomorrow. I probably wont have it completely done tell the end of the weekend, as i am also waiting for my corsair sleeves to come in. They messed up my order twice on frozencpu, so instead i will be getting the coolgate heat exchanger 360 rad and upgraded fans. They also upped my shipping to 2 day, great customer service right there. I should have pics and some benches next week, will be also adding some gpu's to the loop in the next few months. I went with red tubing and red sleeves, should be some good times ahead.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> I run mid 50s under load.


LOL my gtx 580 ran mid 70's on air but now that i have in on a WAY overkill RAD it runs about 45-50 under load heavily OCed that seems about right tho i just hate running stock clocks thats why it ran so hot (my H100 can't keep my CPU under 60 under load) lolol


----------



## axipher

So my FX-8150 @ 4.8 GHz @ 1.5 V for guaranteed stability and my 5x 120 mm of RAD space gets my a maximum temperature of 38 C in Coretemp (probably 40 - 42 C actual) folding on all 8 cores


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So my FX-8150 @ 4.8 GHz @ 1.5 V for guaranteed stability and my 5x 120 mm of RAD space gets my a maximum temperature of 38 C in Coretemp (probably 40 - 42 C actual) folding on all 8 cores


wish i had your capital


----------



## pwnzilla61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So my FX-8150 @ 4.8 GHz @ 1.5 V for guaranteed stability and my 5x 120 mm of RAD space gets my a maximum temperature of 38 C in Coretemp (probably 40 - 42 C actual) folding on all 8 cores


Very nice, so I should get about the same, plus my rig is in the basement as well. I am looking to hit 4.9 or 5.0 ghz, we shall see. Ive booted into windows at 5 ghz but never really tried to stable it as my h80 can't even keep temps at 4.7 within range.


----------



## pwnzilla61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So my FX-8150 @ 4.8 GHz @ 1.5 V for guaranteed stability and my 5x 120 mm of RAD space gets my a maximum temperature of 38 C in Coretemp (probably 40 - 42 C actual) folding on all 8 cores


Very nice, so I should get about the same, plus my rig is in the basement as well. I am looking to hit 4.9 or 5.0 ghz, we shall see. Ive booted into windows at 5 ghz but never really tried to stable it as my h80 can't even keep temps at 4.7 within range.

Sorry internet spaized out or something


----------



## hale1278

my new set up. Nothing fancy, just de H100 and thats all



More pics under my sig.


----------



## axipher

I'm at 22 C ambient right now. And I've only payed a little over $200 for the entire system, it was all purchased off OCN, except for the 10 ft of Watts tubing that was $8 from Home Depot


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm at 22 C ambient right now. And I've only payed a little over $200 for the entire system, it was all purchased off OCN, except for the 10 ft of Watts tubing that was $8 from Home Depot


yeah i did my GPU loop out of necessity and i managed a full cover block + loop for just 59 bucks

all i had and am flat broke right now


----------



## pwnzilla61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm at 22 C ambient right now. And I've only payed a little over $200 for the entire system, it was all purchased off OCN, except for the 10 ft of Watts tubing that was $8 from Home Depot


If the tubing is not what i would expect then I just might check out that tubing in your kit, looks nice and thick.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm at 22 C ambient right now. And I've only payed a little over $200 for the entire system, it was all purchased off OCN, except for the 10 ft of Watts tubing that was $8 from Home Depot


Black Watts tube ftw


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm at 22 C ambient right now. And I've only payed a little over $200 for the entire system, it was all purchased off OCN, except for the 10 ft of Watts tubing that was $8 from Home Depot
> 
> 
> 
> yeah i did my GPU loop out of necessity and i managed a full cover block + loop for just 59 bucks
> 
> all i had and am flat broke right now
Click to expand...

Nice deal









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnzilla61*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm at 22 C ambient right now. And I've only payed a little over $200 for the entire system, it was all purchased off OCN, except for the 10 ft of Watts tubing that was $8 from Home Depot
> 
> 
> 
> If the tubing is not what i would expect then I just might check out that tubing in your kit, looks nice and thick.
Click to expand...

It's 1/2" ID 3/4" like most others, so same thickness as most tubing, but much stiffer, it is very hard to kink, but at the same time, hard to work with on tight bends.

If you look at my build below, the bottom tube going from the pump in the ODD bay to the bottom RAD had to be soaked on hot water to get the bend.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm at 22 C ambient right now. And I've only payed a little over $200 for the entire system, it was all purchased off OCN, except for the 10 ft of Watts tubing that was $8 from Home Depot
> 
> 
> 
> Black Watts tube ftw
Click to expand...

That's my next option once I also get a new GPU and a waterblock for it


----------



## pwnzilla61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Nice deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's 1/2" ID 3/4" like most others, so same thickness as most tubing, but much stiffer, it is very hard to kink, but at the same time, hard to work with on tight bends.
> If you look at my build below, the bottom tube going from the pump in the ODD bay to the bottom RAD had to be soaked on hot water to get the bend.
> That's my next option once I also get a new GPU and a waterblock for it


Very nice setup man, +1 rep for rockin red and an amd fx!!


----------



## jellis142

*Phiz66*. That's WICKED. I picked up a single Gelid to try it out, and love how quiet and beefy it is. Sure it's not the best value, but I wanted some good quality UV lights instead of blinding LED monstrosities.

I see you have a ton of them locked on to your radiators... and my question is... how do they perform? I'm looking for noise, air movement through the rad and any noticeable problems with the fans themselves?

Much appriciated







Would like to know if they are worth it before I drop some cash on more.


----------



## Badness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I finished doing this morning.


I love both of those boards and your RAM kits. Good taste


----------



## Tipless

anyone with the clear watts tubing know if its uv reactive?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only wish I had the funds to take care of this. But I don't have a sugar momma like you do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lolz
> I can't even afford my Radiator yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sell that 5770 to get your funds going for a new gpu
Click to expand...

I'd love to except nobody would buy it and let me use it til I get the replacement. No onboard GPU. You know dis.









@axipher... Whenever I get into marketplace, the Radiators are either gone or overseas.









~Ceadder


----------



## thfallen

still a work in progress got to get my new raids but thought i would put a new picture up since i got some new stuff since the first one.
water cooling is addicting did not think it when i saw all you saying but it is went from just a cpu block to a motherboard block now i want a gpu block lol.
and i love all your guys is rigs just wish i could stick to one plan and make mine as nice as all the ones i see on here hopefully the I-5 build will be nice.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> anyone with the clear watts tubing know if its uv reactive?


I'm pretty sure it's not UV reactive.


----------



## rmorse27

Here is my new setup.


----------



## rmorse27

This is my new setup.


----------



## PCModderMike

Too many Switch builds going on? Sorry, I did one as well














It was fun working with it


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have two as well. How hot do you run?


Mine never go aboue 42C at 750c.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Too many Switch builds going on? Sorry, I did one as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was fun working with it


Very nice build, I love the rads did you paint them white or did a water cooling company stumble upon a brain and start making white rads.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Very nice build, I love the rads did you paint them white or did a water cooling company stumble upon a brain and start making white rads.


Well thank you! No not aware of any companies making them like that yet haha, I painted them myself


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Too many Switch builds going on? Sorry, I did one as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was fun working with it


That is one hell of a build.


----------



## 1rkrage

quick question: is it ok to make a drain plug like this at the bottom of the lowest part of the loop:


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> quick question: is it ok to make a drain plug like this at the bottom of the lowest part of the loop:


it should be fine, shouldn't hurt anything.


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> it should be fine, shouldn't hurt anything.


Ok thanks







just making sure before I waste spend money on watercooling components.


----------



## KaRLiToS

It will work perfectly fine, my T-Line Drain port is alike except my flow follow a 90 degree pattern instead of going straight

(Kevin, please do not upload this picture in my Post count, thank you)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> quick question: is it ok to make a drain plug like this at the bottom of the lowest part of the loop:


Why do a BP fillport at ~$9 + plug, when you can get a female adapter for $4 and put a plug in the other side of it. That's what I'm going to be setting up coming off my Pump block at the bottom of my loop. Should drain very quickly with that setup.









Oh yeah, nix the idea of a "Rotary T Qube" you only have 3 ports and all to have Monsoon fittings? Where would the rotary be in that setup?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why do a BP fillport at ~$9 + plug, when you can get a female adapter for $4 and put a plug in the other side of it. That's what I'm going to be setting up coming off my Pump block at the bottom of my loop. Should drain very quickly with that setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, nix the idea of a "Rotary T Qube" you only have 3 ports and all to have Monsoon fittings? Where would the rotary be in that setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


looks better, ?









I'm using a phobya qdc (same ones used in pneumatic applications):


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Mine never go aboue 42C at 750c.


Sounds about what I run too. Same clocks even. Is that at full load?


----------



## ChrisTahoe

Got my anti-kink coils in. I'm still not 100% sure I like em, but they aren't that hard to remove.



Sorry for the poor quality photo.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I am not to sure too, I would like to see it without. I'm not a fan of Anti Kink coil though.


----------



## ChrisTahoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I am not to sure too, I would like to see it without. I'm not a fan of Anti Kink coil though.


My current rig picture has them without the coils.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisTahoe*
> 
> Got my anti-kink coils in. I'm still not 100% sure I like em, but they aren't that hard to remove.
> 
> Sorry for the poor quality photo.


It does play well to your color scheme, I likes







. I'm not a huge fan of coils but if the colors are matched nicely, it does augment the over all look. Looks like candy canes, yum


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Sounds about what I run too. Same clocks even. Is that at full load?


Yeap, lowest idel I have had was 19c on both when its cold.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Sounds about what I run too. Same clocks even. Is that at full load?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeap, lowest idel I have had was 19c on both when its cold.
Click to expand...

Wow, that's impressive. The lowest I've seen on mine is 24c, and tips the scale around 45c


----------



## wireeater

Awesome build guys. I am hoping I will be posting in here soon. I want to build a full water cooling loop for my setup. However, I'm thinking about just selling one of the 7950's and focus on cooling the 1 CPU and 1 GP, less trouble plus I could use the money to pay for the setup. I am just needing some assistance on what exactly to purchase. If anyone wants to PM me with some advice for my current set up, please feel free.

I drew how I wanted to set it up but I left it at work.

If anyone with the Phantom case can chime in please let me know. I am extremely anal about clutter and being clean inside the case. I don't plan on doing a window so I just need a nice, functioning loop.

I wish I had the rep to put my card up on OCnet.


----------



## zdude

Okay so now it is finally time to post my Ghetto mod pics :0

Brace yourself they arn't too pretty but it works great.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

Diy ftw


----------



## zdude

yeah i did it on a strict budget of $59 too so i will see how long the old cheep fountain pump i have driving it lasts...


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Okay so now it is finally time to post my Ghetto mod pics :0
> Brace yourself they arn't too pretty but it works great.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


words cant describe.....


----------



## mironccr345

Anyone like.........PINK?!














Not bad for $39.99 case.


----------



## wireeater

Clean, I'd rock it!


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why do a BP fillport at ~$9 + plug, when you can get a female adapter for $4 and put a plug in the other side of it. That's what I'm going to be setting up coming off my Pump block at the bottom of my loop. Should drain very quickly with that setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, nix the idea of a "Rotary T Qube" you only have 3 ports and all to have Monsoon fittings? Where would the rotary be in that setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I knew I rushed it.. was looking at the regular T cubes yesterday but for some reason I added the rotary T cube







. oh well. I guess the drain port is going to be added in the second phase of my wc (2nd 7970)

since the 240 is going to be at the bottom, can't I just put the rotary on one of the fittings of the rad and have the drain line there?


----------



## bigkahuna360

Dont know if I was added yet or not


----------



## Bouf0010

Just thought id share some new pics


----------



## Dredknot

Updated my system yet again lol. Added an ek MIVE Waterblock and 3 EK gtx 580 waterblocks.


----------



## wermad

^^^^Smexy!!! Time to get an ek bridge


----------



## gashi

What do you guys think?


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gashi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?


External rad


----------



## sloppyjoe123

W8 is that really an external 120rad gashi? Why not put it inside the case.

Otherwise, the rig is without a doubt... _*beast*_


----------



## gashi

i couldn't fit it in the case and it's actually a 140mm i'm going to work up a bracket that i can run my other 140mm with it as well put it over top of that one.
I tried everyway i could think up to put it in but nothing worked lol


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> looks better, ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a phobya qdc (same ones used in pneumatic applications):


i wouldnt use the phobya qdc in the flow path (seems too restrictive and heavy) but it works great as a drain line


----------



## gashi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> External rad


I dont like it either trust me i wish i could run just the 360 up top


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why do a BP fillport at ~$9 + plug, when you can get a female adapter for $4 and put a plug in the other side of it. That's what I'm going to be setting up coming off my Pump block at the bottom of my loop. Should drain very quickly with that setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, nix the idea of a "Rotary T Qube" you only have 3 ports and all to have Monsoon fittings? Where would the rotary be in that setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew I rushed it.. was looking at the regular T cubes yesterday but for some reason I added the rotary T cube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . oh well. I guess the drain port is going to be added in the second phase of my wc (2nd 7970)
> 
> since the 240 is going to be at the bottom, can't I just put the rotary on one of the fittings of the rad and have the drain line there?
Click to expand...

I would assume you could do that. But you didn't mention anything about a 240 goin in the bottom that I recall, so I hadda go with your own schematic. If you do just make sure to try to make that line straight into/out of the Radiator.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gashi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> External rad
Click to expand...

Not bad but if you mount your Radiator onto the fan and not under it you can't fit it in place random? I think that's what people are noticing.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> i wouldnt use the phobya qdc in the flow path (seems too restrictive and heavy) but it works great as a drain line


I have the male end on my reservoir. Though, not to give my reservoir any male genitalia







, it works as a qdc drain.


----------



## GoodInk

About half way there.


----------



## Kortwa

Looking good Goodink.

I need to finish making the gfx cables because my others are just a bit too short and my fan controller is dead which is what you see at the bottom left.


----------



## manu97416

Hi guys im about to buy the 400 mm liquid fusion V tri spiral or normal still need to decide, im getting the florescent red and wanted to know the bulb works? do i need to buy the seperate Inverter?
Opinions about getting the tri spiral or the normal one would be great!
will it fit in a th10 case and how do i mount it ?
Thanks


----------



## Kortwa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Hi guys im about to buy the 400 mm liquid fusion V tri spiral or normal still need to decide, im getting the florescent red and wanted to know the bulb works? do i need to buy the seperate Inverter?
> Opinions about getting the tri spiral or the normal one would be great!
> will it fit in a th10 case and how do i mount it ?
> Thanks


I am pretty sure you get an inverter with it. I dont have one but I wouldn't see why they would give you the light and not the inverter. There should be a cord that plugs into the intverter and then a cable from that to molex.

The 400 will easily fit in the TH-10. I have a 400mm Bitspower res as seen in the pic above in my M8 and I like the size. If you had a smaller rez I feel like it wouldnt hold its own against the size of the case. As for mounting you can do what I did and drill holes for the mounting brackets or use strong double sided tape or velcro. I have my res directly connected to my pass-though at the top and could probably have my whole res just supported from there if I wanted to. The strong double sided tape is the least distructive option.

I think the tri vs normal is going to come down to preference. I think the tri will end up looking busier then the single in your case so it depends on how you want it to look.

Hope I helped a bit


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have the male end on my reservoir. Though, not to give my reservoir any male genitalia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it works as a qdc drain.


Thats sounds like a good use for one of those ports that just usually get capped.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> About half way there.


Paint that GT


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kortwa*
> 
> I am pretty sure you get an inverter with it. I dont have one but I wouldn't see why they would give you the light and not the inverter. There should be a cord that plugs into the intverter and then a cable from that to molex.
> The 400 will easily fit in the TH-10. I have a 400mm Bitspower res as seen in the pic above in my M8 and I like the size. If you had a smaller rez I feel like it wouldnt hold its own against the size of the case. As for mounting you can do what I did and drill holes for the mounting brackets or use strong double sided tape or velcro. I have my res directly connected to my pass-though at the top and could probably have my whole res just supported from there if I wanted to. The strong double sided tape is the least distructive option.
> I think the tri vs normal is going to come down to preference. I think the tri will end up looking busier then the single in your case so it depends on how you want it to look.
> Hope I helped a bit


Thanks but now when i think about it im also adding 4 fans to the bottom and mounting the rad on top wit a push/pull setup.... and i need a fillport for the res and need to connect it to a mcp655 thats going to be on the bottom but is there going to be space for all of that?
i need to know because i ordered the 400 mm res allready and they said that if i want to change it to 250 mm i can but i just want to know if i can make it work out with 400mm because that would be my preffered option.
since i dont have the case i cant measure it all and im ordering everything all at once so i need to know everything i have will work...
PM me ur email address and ill send u the cart i have made. this is really important for me because im living in israel and have an apartment in New York... family is flying there and can bring all the stuff back including the case watercooling supplies and res.

Thanks guys please help me out here.....
Emmanuel


----------



## carrotman

Quick question:
For clear tubing, which is better, Tygon or Primochill? Price is no issue as I only need 3 feet or so. It needs to resist dyes (not get stained) though, and be as clear as possible (no yellow tint).


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> Quick question:
> For clear tubing, which is better, Tygon or Primochill? Price is no issue as I only need 3 feet or so. It needs to resist dyes (not get stained) though, and be as clear as possible (no yellow tint).


My primochill went cloudy in three days. I ordered THIS a few days ago and it arrives today. I haven't tested it, but it can't be worse than the primo.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> Quick question:
> For clear tubing, which is better, Tygon or Primochill? Price is no issue as I only need 3 feet or so. It needs to resist dyes (not get stained) though, and be as clear as possible (no yellow tint).


Lots of good tubing info in my sig link


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> My primochill went cloudy in three days. I ordered THIS a few days ago and it arrives today. I haven't tested it, but it can't be worse than the primo.


Speak of the devil; it just arrived. It's not as clear as I would like and it has green writing on the outside. I'll let you know if I can clean it up.

EDIT: The green came off very easily with acetone. It's still not as clear as I would like, but it doesn't have any yellow hue. I'll test it with some dye.


----------



## motokill36

Add me please sorry about bad pic


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kortwa*
> 
> Looking good Goodink.
> 
> I need to finish making the gfx cables because my others are just a bit too short and my fan controller is dead which is what you see at the bottom left.


Thanks and yours is too, sorry to here about your fan controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> About half way there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint that GT
Click to expand...

I have a couple holes to make for cables first. Then if the weather and life permits, it will be painted next week.


----------



## Sorcha

http://www.overclock.net/t/1221834/my-water-cooled-amd-phenom-ii-1090t-black-edition

The link is a link to my build log and I'm quoting my self.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcha*
> 
> Comparing my old Volcano 9 that i had on my old Socket A mother board vs what i have on my computer now my temps in the summer where 61c-62c and in the winter I overclocked it and it ran 55c that was why I started water cooling because no heat sink and fan set up could keep up with the heat not just the cpu but it was 35c out side without air con, so with the computer on the temp in my room was about 38c.
> back in the day i had the Volcano 9 I had it running at full speed and it was still not good enough, but on the stock heat sink that came with Phenom chip I have the same fan on it that I had on the Volcano 9 and I have it turned down and its quiet I have never had a computer this quiet before plus the temps are better now than anything have had before I have never seen idle temps of 25c or load of 44c, that was what I was trying to do with the water loop but failed.
> If my new water loop can't keep up I may go back to air cooling.
> Ashley


With knowing that my water loop is a fail I need some encouragement that I'm not wasting my time in trying again, so could some people post idle and load temps so that I can see it not a wast of time.

Ashley


----------



## erocker




----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dual loop on a 360 rad for a single 7970 ? Sorry to be a critic but water cooling is all about noise, looks, and cooling. You could easily cool a 2700k and a 7970(coolest high end reference card out right now) with a high end 240 rad and push pull and still get good temps even with massive overclock 1155 is not a very hot cpu either. if you were running a 1366 or 2011 the 360 rad is justifiable but still not dual loop. Not that your rig is bad just overkill and thats my


----------



## erocker

I already had the parts and used them. Only using two fans on the triple rad. In your scenario, I would be using the same amount of fans for my cooling and it would most likely be noisier due to resitance. Noise isn't an issue for me and things keep quite cool. I'm satisfied with it, but I don't mind critics.







I will actually be replacing the triple Koolance with a dual 120 in the near future. It's also on dual loops. Also, who's not to say that I'll be using bigger and hotter hardware in the future anyways.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Dual loop on a 360 rad for a single 7970 ? Sorry to be a critic but water cooling is all about noise, looks, and cooling. You could easily cool a 2700k and a 7970(coolest high end reference card out right now) with a high end 240 rad and push pull and still get good temps even with massive overclock 1155 is not a very hot cpu either. if you were running a 1366 or 2011 the 360 rad is justifiable but still not dual loop. Not that your rig is bad just overkill and thats my


7970 + 2700K on a 240? Not gonna have good temps at all.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> I already had the parts and used them. Only using two fans on the triple rad. In your scenario, I would be using the same amount of fans for my cooling and it would most likely be noisier due to resitance. Noise isn't an issue for me and things keep quite cool. I'm satisfied with it, but I don't mind critics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will actually be replacing the triple Koolance with a dual 120 in the near future. It's also on dual loops. Also, who's not to say that I'll be using bigger and hotter hardware in the future anyways.


Good points^^ just stating my opinion on how I would do it. As for noise use a rad with a lower fin density and lower rpm fans good thermals and acoustic but if you ever wanted to throw in a few more 7970's that would be friggin sweet







Also most water cooling componets last a long time so your rig is future proofed cooling wise and I love the 500r
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> 7970 + 2700K on a 240? Not gonna have good temps at all.


Much better than a high end air cooler on the cpu and a reference cooler on the gpu.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Much better than a high end air cooler on the cpu and a reference cooler on the gpu.










Maybe, and I mean a strong maybe. Definitely wouldn't justify the price though.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe, and I mean a strong maybe. Definitely wouldn't justify the price though.


ehh cooling improvement of 2-5C is worth it PLUS the aesthetic and noise aspect.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Much better than a high end air cooler on the cpu and a reference cooler on the gpu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe, and I mean a strong maybe. Definitely wouldn't justify the price though.
Click to expand...

No maybes. A high end AC unit probably wouldn't come within 5c of the temps he can get with that setup. Depending on ambient temp of course.









And you do know that this is OCN, home of Overkill right? The price is justified just cause he can.









~Ceadder


----------



## heinz357

Thought I'd post a couple of pics of my lil' work in progress, please excuse the crappy cam, and the dust!!


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heinz357*
> 
> Thought I'd post a couple of pics of my lil' work in progress, please excuse the crappy cam, and the dust!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-
> -snip-
> -snip-


Looking good







If I didnt have so many wires I would love to have a test bench for my case


----------



## jdangond

Haven't posted in a while but have been debating on whether or not it would be worth it to put a 200 rad in the front of the case. Thought I would get some thoughts on this if anyone has any input.

Thanks


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Good points^^ just stating my opinion on how I would do it. As for noise use a rad with a lower fin density and lower rpm fans good thermals and acoustic but if you ever wanted to throw in a few more 7970's that would be friggin sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also most water cooling componets last a long time so your rig is future proofed cooling wise and I love the 500r
> Much better than a high end air cooler on the cpu and a reference cooler on the gpu.


I appreciate the comments but I'm not looking for advice. I've been doing this for many years and I know all about thermodynamics, water cooling, etc., I've also been a reviewer of cooling products.t. Just showing a couple pictures in the gallery. I like the 500R too, my only gripe is that they needed put a liitle more room up top for the top radiator.


----------



## heinz357

Quote:


> Looking good If I didnt have so many wires I would love to have a test bench for my case


Dont be scared of the wiring, just go for it! From the back, mine looks like someone threw a technicolour ball of string and an enraged kitten at it!!









....but nobody looks at the back of a test bench!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Hi guys im about to buy the 400 mm liquid fusion V tri spiral or normal still need to decide, im getting the florescent red and wanted to know the bulb works? do i need to buy the seperate Inverter?
> Opinions about getting the tri spiral or the normal one would be great!
> will it fit in a th10 case and how do i mount it ?
> Thanks


It's come to my attention that yes you will need an inverter for the Reservoir. And you damn skippy that 400mm Res would fit in a TH10. The TH10 can hold a 480 in the front so you should have plenty of room to spare both top and bottom to play with. I think I suggested in FrozenQ club to go with Tri Spiral since everyone seems to have double helices.









Hope this answered your question satisfactorily.









*edit* I guess I should state that if you have an inverter already and it has a spot open you shouldn't need another one. Might have to get an estension cable tho.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdangond*
> 
> Haven't posted in a while but have been debating on whether or not it would be worth it to put a 200 rad in the front of the case. Thought I would get some thoughts on this if anyone has any input.
> 
> Thanks
> *snip snip*


I say hell yes. If you have the ability to do so then by all means you should do so and put the GPU directly to it and it to the Res/Pump.









I found my HDD bracketry(remember when HDD came with 5.25 bracks?) so I may just add a 200 to the front of my system. Who knows. But I got the bracks so the HDD tower is comin out soon as I can get my hands on a reliable drill.









~Ceadder


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's come to my attention that yes you will need an inverter for the Reservoir. And you damn skippy that 400mm Res would fit in a TH10. The TH10 can hold a 480 in the front so you should have plenty of room to spare both top and bottom to play with. I think I suggested in FrozenQ club to go with Tri Spiral since everyone seems to have double helices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this answered your question satisfactorily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* I guess I should state that if you have an inverter already and it has a spot open you shouldn't need another one. Might have to get an estension cable tho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I say hell yes. If you have the ability to do so then by all means you should do so and put the GPU directly to it and it to the Res/Pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found my HDD bracketry(remember when HDD came with 5.25 bracks?) so I may just add a 200 to the front of my system. Who knows. But I got the bracks so the HDD tower is comin out soon as I can get my hands on a reliable drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks alot that really helped...


----------



## wermad

Duplicolor Chrome came out better than what I was expecting. Comes really close and even though its not perfectly matched, it does blend better than tarnished copper. I kinda crapped the paint a bit (combination of bad instructions and crappy painting skills







).


----------



## sli_shroom

Smexy


----------



## jaywar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finish my rig!!!


What monitor is that? Is that a samsung bx2250?


----------



## u3b3rg33k

My new rig:







Planning on training that upper coolant hose shortly, and dealing with the res will come soon.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> My new rig:
> 
> *big cut*
> 
> Planning on training that upper coolant hose shortly, and dealing with the res will come soon.


Definitely an old school look to the old times of water cooling with aluminum cases and chipset blocks, even I am still using a Swiftech MWC30. I'm sure that's not a Q6700 in that 1366 socket, right?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I'm sad to say that just when I was looking forward to ordering more from FrozenCPU, I find out that they didn't have the rads that I needed. So I ended up going to Performance-PCs. The plus side is that i was able to get everything... While adding things to my cart, I also discovered the new Alphacool dual bay laing pump/res combo, but sadly, they were sold out.

Hopefully they'll get more soon so i can hurry up and finish off my water cooling loop. In the mean time, the stuff that I ordered should be more than enough to keep me busy for a week or two.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Definitely an old school look to the old times of water cooling with aluminum cases and chipset blocks, even I am still using a Swiftech MWC30. I'm sure that's not a Q6700 in that 1366 socket, right?


Well there's no full cover blocks for my board (plane jane P6T), so I kinda had to go that way. current folding temps are 50C with the fans on low. i7-940 on stock clocks. For now.

What's really amazing is the clearance in the case. the upper rearmost standoff screw cannot be applied. There is NO room to get a screwdriver (or needle nose pliers) in there. Unfortunately, the vreg fan doesn't fit on the upper vreg sink with the rad hose where it is, but the rad lines up just right and it's fans keep them nice and cool (lucky me).


----------



## Zan30

Could you use these as in & out instead of the front ?


----------



## Tipless

yes. just move the stops to the other holes


----------



## mironccr345

Here's another NZXT Switch 810 build.


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Here's another NZXT Switch 810 build.


this will be roughly my build this weekend









red tubing, white LED lights, bay res (mine's the XSPC D5 bayres/pump)


----------



## Blindsay

You guys make me want to start another build


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Simple i know but it's a start, and it does quite well











Q9450 @ 2.80Ghz >>> Corsair H60 2x120mm fans >> 27c idle >> 43c load >>>


----------



## u3b3rg33k

2.8? Eww. crank that thing to 3.5+ and report back.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> 2.8? Eww. crank that thing to 3.5+ and report back.


Look at his motherboard. It's not the best for overclocking. But who cares! Crank that sucker up regardless.


----------



## aReado

my old rigs ....


----------



## LiljHoN05

Hello!

here's my unfinished business:













more here: http://westsidecasemods.com/screenshot/project-phantom-diffuser/


----------



## superericla

A lot of work (and a new case) to go but here's a peek my build progress so far.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

that took forever... haha


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiljHoN05*


Very nice! Are those the Bitspower 35mm d-plugs (aka, 1" plugs)?


----------



## aReado

my new rigs, in progress .... waiting for new tube and reservoir ...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aReado*
> 
> my new rigs, in progress .... waiting for new tube and reservoir ...


I like the tubing and connectors. Looks very clean. Especially with the clear coolant, versus colored. I ended up with the black chrome fittings on clear tubing for my build. I'm also using purple coolant, but I haven't decided on how much to add just yet. Looking at yours, I may end up leaving it all clear.


----------



## LiljHoN05

Quote:


> Very nice! Are those the Bitspower 35mm d-plugs (aka, 1" plugs)?


Yes,. ^_^


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Duplicolor Chrome came out better than what I was expecting. Comes really close and even though its not perfectly matched, it does blend better than tarnished copper. I kinda crapped the paint a bit (combination of bad instructions and crappy painting skills
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


----------



## bundymania




----------



## sloppyjoe123

The things I would do to get those pieces of metal.


----------



## PCModderMike

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*






Got enough fittings there?


----------



## Captivate

Mother of God. That's.... alot of fittings.


----------



## TwentyCent

Bundy, are those the "Carbon Black" specy? How different are they from the standard matte black?


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Id love to but my mobo is shockingly poor ( G41 Chipset ) at OC'ing. Can't adjust much especially the voltage







which i need ( damn it ! ). Might get a better board in future to push MOAR !!
I did have a Q6600 on a Asus Blitz Extreme @ 3.6Ghz with a H60 also , until the board blew up


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Bundy, are those the "Carbon Black" specy? How different are they from the standard matte black?


Yeah and they look nearly the same. Funny thing is..the carbon series look more "matt" than the matt black ones...in my opinion


----------



## TwentyCent

Wow, badass! Oh and them fittings are pure pr0n too







.

I think I get the subtle difference between the 2, and it would seem that the carbon looks better too. Thanks for the answer!


----------



## (sic)

I do like these "carbon" fittings, but are they available for purchase? If so where? Outside of the Bitspower Taiwan Online Shop if possible.


----------



## bundymania

ATM directly via the Bitspower Site only - you have to write the BP Team a mail...

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=index


----------



## (sic)

Ah, I see. Guess I'll have to look into shipping and such, but I really want them now...

Thanks for the info.


----------



## BigHops323

Not nearly done with my extentions (only done the 8pin EPS so far) but I figured I'd post because it'll be awhile until I'm really finished. Not happy with the hard drive mounting, I'll have to find another way to mount them to avoid all the cables being visible like they are.

Also, as you can see my EX240 is currently fanless (I was a little under the influence when I assembled the rig, nearly tore off a capacitor by hitting a fan when sliding the motherboard tray in). I need slim fans for it, but am just about clueless as to which ones to get for the best performance. Talking like 12mm thin here. I'm also looking to replace my rear 80mm fans here, the xig's I have are ok but they're a bit loud for my liking compared to the AP-14's. I'm open to any 80mm fan suggestions as well.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Add some color contrast to your build. Personally, I'm not a fan of the all-black look, but it looks very clean nonetheless


----------



## BigHops323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Add some color contrast to your build. Personally, I'm not a fan of the all-black look, but it looks very clean nonetheless


I'll be swapping to white tubing and throwing in some LED's eventually, just a few more things on my to-do list that never gets done.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Ah, I see. Guess I'll have to look into shipping and such, but I really want them now...
> 
> Thanks for the info.


You can contact Performance-PCs.com and ask them if they would order some for you the next time they submit their order to BP. Don't get discouraged if they "suggest" they already stock BP fittings. Explain to them(nicely) that you know this but they don't have the ones you want. They should confirm your request and tell you how long it should take to get them. I'm hoping my 20mm High Speed Silents are in soon. They did tell me 4 to 7 weeks though and this is week 3.









~Ceadder


----------



## (sic)

^Wouldn't have thought of this. I may do just that.


----------



## Jeeps

My third water cooling system, custom build HTPC case with an inverted motherboard


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeeps*
> 
> My third water cooling system, custom build HTPC case with an inverted motherboard
> *snip*


pure awesomeness jeeps - ive never seen anything like it!


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

You got a build log for that beauty Jeeps?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> You got a build log for that beauty Jeeps?


^This

That build looks very nice


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> pure awesomeness jeeps - ive never seen anything like it!


I ʇɥıuʞ ndsıpǝ poʍu ʇǝxʇ ıs ıu oɹpǝɹ


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> I ʇɥıuʞ ndsıpǝ poʍu ʇǝxʇ ıs ıu oɹpǝɹ


I'm more impressed that you have upside down text than I am with any of the builds I've seen.


----------



## Jeeps

Thx everyone








Worklog is at http://www.overclock.net/t/1228753/intermediate-ice-cube, however theres not that many pictures, as I can't seem to find where I put them.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*


Exactly.

This is at least $1100 in fittings...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeeps*
> 
> My third water cooling system, custom build HTPC case with an inverted motherboard


Paint the rad white and it should be perfect. Also powder coating would be sweet as well. Awesome rig btw


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Exactly.
> This is at least $1100 in fittings...


ikr xD


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


bundy have you or any one else reviewed that dual mod top?


----------



## wseroyer

I don't remember if I posted pictures of my computer or not on this forum, but here you go anyways.


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigHops323*
> 
> I'm also looking to replace my rear 80mm fans here, the xig's I have are ok but they're a bit loud for my liking compared to the AP-14's. I'm open to any 80mm fan suggestions as well.


Hi BigHops323,

Just a heads up - But if it's the stock TJ07 rear panel, those are 92mm fans are they not?
At least mine are









Build is looking real good tho









/NwP


----------



## PCModderMike

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> I don't remember if I posted pictures of my computer or not on this forum, but here you go anyways.






I think I saw your YouTube video, that's a nice setup you got there







Makes me want a 500R for another build


----------



## Tipless

i know it doesnt have water in it yet... but it doesnt have anything yet lol.

it will eventually have 2 360mm rads and 2 480mm rads...

[Scratch Build] Jää-Liekki (a.k.a. Ice Flame):


----------



## wermad

Nice sheet metal work there


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice sheet metal work there


Thanks! it is coming along nicely. to think ive only been working on it a week. im further along than i think but it looks daunting everytime i go start on a new day lol.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Oh hello folks, My new build - a modified PC-Z60. Specs in sig.








Had to clean the thermal GLUE (yes glue, not a pad or paste) off the PCH. Did it all with a pocket knife. I'd say it turned out OK.









































Full load temps are approx. 50C.


----------



## BigHops323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> Hi BigHops323,
> Just a heads up - But if it's the stock TJ07 rear panel, those are 92mm fans are they not?
> At least mine are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build is looking real good tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /NwP


Wow, thanks that would have totally sucked! Any suggestions as for which fans to go with?

+rep for the save! Thanks again!!


----------



## axipher

*Scythe Kama 92MM PWM Fan* are amazing fans.


----------



## BigHops323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> *Scythe Kama 92MM PWM Fan* are amazing fans.


How's the noise level? I'm looking for something I won't hear over my AP-14's, as that's currently the only thing I can hear with my PC running.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigHops323*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> *Scythe Kama 92MM PWM Fan* are amazing fans.
> 
> 
> 
> How's the noise level? I'm looking for something I won't hear over my AP-14's, as that's currently the only thing I can hear with my PC running.
Click to expand...

I keep mine at about 10 V and it's silent enough that I can here my room mates in the kitchen pouring a drink when I'm in my room.


----------



## BigHops323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I keep mine at about 10 V and it's silent enough that I can here my room mates in the kitchen pouring a drink when I'm in my room.


Sounds good, thank you!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigHops323*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I keep mine at about 10 V and it's silent enough that I can here my room mates in the kitchen pouring a drink when I'm in my room.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good, thank you!
Click to expand...

No problem, I can do a quick sound video tonight with my phone. If you want me to just shoot me a PM as a reminder


----------



## OverSightX

Anyone using the Monsoon compression fittings? Are there any setups in here that show them in use? I'm too lazy to go through 1800 pages. Im thinking of changing my barbs and don't know to go to these cheaper fittings or just go with the bitspower.

In case there is a question, it's these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14928/ex-tub-1102/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_38ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Matte_Black_FCC-3858-6P-MB.html#blank


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Anyone using the Monsoon compression fittings? Are there any setups in here that show them in use? I'm too lazy to go through 1800 pages. Im thinking of changing my barbs and don't know to go to these cheaper fittings or just go with the bitspower.
> 
> In case there is a question, it's these:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14928/ex-tub-1102/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_38ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Matte_Black_FCC-3858-6P-MB.html#blank


I've been curious as well, I've heard there nice to work with, but that price tag is throwing me off.


----------



## wermad

Is it me, or are those notches on the cap of the Monsoon compression fitting looks like it might start gnawing on the tube when you twist it to lock it on and off?


----------



## OverSightX

Doesn't look like it would cause damage with the rounded edges and the pic shows the tool in action. I'd like someone with experience and pictures can help answer our questions.


----------



## douglatins

BP looks better right?


----------



## wermad

they don't make 3/8x1/2. Looks interesting, and I like the color options. Pricing is along BP and Enzotech.


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they don't make 3/8x1/2. Looks interesting, and I like the color options. Pricing is along BP and Enzotech.


The colors do look interesting. I have a black/red theme and was maybe looking into those. Price is a little cheaper than BP.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

I have seen a few builds using those fittings and I have heard nothing but positive feedback


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Anyone using the Monsoon compression fittings? Are there any setups in here that show them in use? I'm too lazy to go through 1800 pages. Im thinking of changing my barbs and don't know to go to these cheaper fittings or just go with the bitspower.
> In case there is a question, it's these:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14928/ex-tub-1102/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_38ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Matte_Black_FCC-3858-6P-MB.html#blank


http://www.overclock.net/t/1208865/build-log-600t-and-my-water-cooling-cherry/0_50


----------



## Antykain

Really like the Matt black Monsoon fittings.. I am using white tubing in my w/c'd rig and think they would like pretty good. Look really good in the above rig!

Sent from my iPhone 4 using
Tapatalk


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Here's my loop in a Fractal Midi















Well, If you are asking for someone with Monsoon Compressions, you are in luck







.

The compressions are good to use. The tool, I only used it to tighten the barb into the rads, res and block, but the Primochill LRT is soooo tight that if I try and tighten the ring using the tool too tightly I would not be able to remove the tubing by unscrewing the ring by itself, as by doing so, the tubing till tug the barb and remove the entire compression fitting instead. The ring also has a pretty hard time navigating through the length of the tubing to get into the barb. I have no idea if this is the tubing or the rings, fault but MAN, was it tight.

With the Primochill tubing, it does provide a very very tight fit, which is a good thing, I doubt I even need the ring tbh. Apart from that, the metal they use is very good, and the O-rings they provide are very nice. If I'm not wrong, the fittings has a recessed design for the Oring to sit into, so its very hard to overtighten them. And the centre-free design ,allows you to see if the tubing is going to come out from the barb, so its a "safety-feature". Apart from that, the compressions are very nice to use. I used finger tight for almost all connections in my loop. And I dont see how it is going to leak tbh.

Plus, at the price, you are getting it for, as the kit, you really can't go wrong with it. Plus, they really do look better in person. And it's nice to see something different, considering how alot of fittings look the same nowadays.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Here's my loop in a Fractal Midi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, If you are asking for someone with Monsoon Compressions, you are in luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> The compressions are good to use. The tool, I only used it to tighten the barb into the rads, res and block, but the Primochill LRT is soooo tight that if I try and tighten the ring using the tool too tightly I would not be able to remove the tubing by unscrewing the ring by itself, as by doing so, the tubing till tug the barb and remove the entire compression fitting instead. The ring also has a pretty hard time navigating through the length of the tubing to get into the barb. I have no idea if this is the tubing or the rings, fault but MAN, was it tight.
> With the Primochill tubing, it does provide a very very tight fit, which is a good thing, I doubt I even need the ring tbh. Apart from that, the metal they use is very good, and the O-rings they provide are very nice. If I'm not wrong, the fittings has a recessed design for the Oring to sit into, so its very hard to overtighten them. And the centre-free design ,allows you to see if the tubing is going to come out from the barb, so its a "safety-feature". Apart from that, the compressions are very nice to use. I used finger tight for almost all connections in my loop. And I dont see how it is going to leak tbh.
> Plus, at the price, you are getting it for, as the kit, you really can't go wrong with it. Plus, they really do look better in person. And it's nice to see something different, considering how alot of fittings look the same nowadays.


sweet build and nice fittings


----------



## Ceadderman

@sloppyjoe... It's the tubing. PrimoChill pushes the tolerances of their tubing to the absolute limits. I have the stuff an have to leave about a 1/4" gap between the base of the collar and the base of the thread on the barb fitting otherwise the collars won't come off without the aid of a rubber band or two for grip.









~Ceadder


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> sweet build and nice fittings


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @sloppyjoe... It's the tubing. PrimoChill pushes the tolerances of their tubing to the absolute limits. I have the stuff an have to leave about a 1/4" gap between the base of the collar and the base of the thread on the barb fitting otherwise the collars won't come off without the aid of a rubber band or two for grip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea, thought so.... It was soooooo tight, it's crazy.


----------



## Antykain

Those Chrome Monsoon fittings look good.. Might actually get those instead of the Matt Black.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

^ I was going for the Matte Black, but decided to go for a more metallic look as the Matte Black just looks abit plasticy for my taste.

I'm sure either will look good in your loop though


----------



## superericla

I do have some 3/8" ID 5/8" OD red monsoon compression fittings I'm wanting to sell if anyone is interested. I would go to the marketplace but I don't have enough rep. I have 12 VERY lightly used ones so if anyone is interested shoot me a pm. I can provide pictures etc. upon request.


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigHops323*
> 
> Wow, thanks that would have totally sucked! Any suggestions as for which fans to go with?
> +rep for the save! Thanks again!!


Your welcome!

I myself have ordered these to go with my green/black theme.

I looked at some Zalmans aswell, but went with the other's for the looks









/NwP


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> bundy have you or any one else reviewed that dual mod top?


Nope, can´t remember any review, where this nice top is included


----------



## Buckley

My rebuilt, with Clearflex tubing, Paracord sleeve and Feser fluid.


----------



## DrJns

Looks great Buckley!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> Really like the Matt black Monsoon fittings.. I am using white tubing in my w/c'd rig and think they would like pretty good. Look really good in the above rig!


I'm changing to white tubing with my matte black monsoons this weekend. I'll post some updated pics for you to check out.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Wow man, that is an wonderful build, the colors match is great and your sleeving is perfect.

Good Job


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buckley*
> 
> My rebuilt, with Clearflex tubing, Paracord sleeve and Feser fluid.


Great job there, love it!









My TJ07 paint-job is done, so hopefully I'll start dropping some pics here soon


----------



## jackofhearts495

Nice build, Buckley! I hope that Dreamflex holds up okay.


----------



## ChaosAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> Your welcome!
> I myself have ordered these to go with my green/black theme.
> I looked at some Zalmans aswell, but went with the other's for the looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /NwP


I use 2x92mm Zalman Blue Led and at full speed are noisy, very noisy, i use them with a fan controller to reduce speed but led lightning also get reduced.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buckley*
> 
> My rebuilt, with Clearflex tubing, Paracord sleeve and Feser fluid.


Sometimes, I see a build and think, this case deserves to have a window behind the mobo tray as well. And yours is one of em.

Watcha planning to do with the top panel?


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Sometimes, I see a build and think, this case deserves to have a window behind the mobo tray as well. And yours is one of em.
> Watcha planning to do with the top panel?


the backside of his mobo tray looks better than the inside of my case. This forum is so depressing for lazy people like me lol


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Here's my loop in a Fractal Midi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, If you are asking for someone with Monsoon Compressions, you are in luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> The compressions are good to use. The tool, I only used it to tighten the barb into the rads, res and block, but the Primochill LRT is soooo tight that if I try and tighten the ring using the tool too tightly I would not be able to remove the tubing by unscrewing the ring by itself, as by doing so, the tubing till tug the barb and remove the entire compression fitting instead. The ring also has a pretty hard time navigating through the length of the tubing to get into the barb. I have no idea if this is the tubing or the rings, fault but MAN, was it tight.
> With the Primochill tubing, it does provide a very very tight fit, which is a good thing, I doubt I even need the ring tbh. Apart from that, the metal they use is very good, and the O-rings they provide are very nice. If I'm not wrong, the fittings has a recessed design for the Oring to sit into, so its very hard to overtighten them. And the centre-free design ,allows you to see if the tubing is going to come out from the barb, so its a "safety-feature". Apart from that, the compressions are very nice to use. I used finger tight for almost all connections in my loop. And I dont see how it is going to leak tbh.
> Plus, at the price, you are getting it for, as the kit, you really can't go wrong with it. Plus, they really do look better in person. And it's nice to see something different, considering how alot of fittings look the same nowadays.


Thanks for the information and nice job on your loop. I think I will give these a try. Now I just don't know to go all black, all red, or a combo.


----------



## Buckley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Sometimes, I see a build and think, this case deserves to have a window behind the mobo tray as well. And yours is one of em.
> Watcha planning to do with the top panel?


For the top I've bought some plexi I've just have to cut and for the Clearflex... well it's cheap


----------



## thx1138

Thoughts on the loop? I'll be adding elbows and 45 degree joints where necessary, I just couldnt find any pre-made models for the fittings so I just did a quick mock up. Any and all suggestions welcome. RX480 is on it's way


----------



## axipher

Amazing job on the render, what program?

And I would say needs another GPU


----------



## Aventadoor

ATTENTION!

People with 7970 and EK blocks, check this out!
May cause your card to die:

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.php?mact=News,cntnt01,detail,0&cntnt01articleid=133&cntnt01origid=15&cntnt01returnid=17


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> ATTENTION!
> People with 7970 and EK blocks, check this out!
> May cause your card to die:
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.php?mact=News,cntnt01,detail,0&cntnt01articleid=133&cntnt01origid=15&cntnt01returnid=17


Yep, I posted this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1228205/warning-ek-fc-7970-incompatibilities#post_16694460 a few days ago to spread the info


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Nope, can´t remember any review, where this nice top is included


Thanks for the info. If you run out of things to review I would love to see a review on it


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> *Amazing job on the render, what program?*
> And I would say needs another GPU


+1 on both accounts. Amazing job on the render and what did you do to do it? Looks amazing


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> Thoughts on the loop? I'll be adding elbows and 45 degree joints where necessary, I just couldnt find any pre-made models for the fittings so I just did a quick mock up. Any and all suggestions welcome. RX480 is on it's way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Mock up!


I take it that tube that goes from the top of the Res to the top of the 932 is the filler tube?









I really like how that is set up though. I'm considering something similar but in original format.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I take it that tube that goes from the top of the Res to the top of the 932 is the filler tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how that is set up though. I'm considering something similar but in original format.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The fill port is on the i/o panel, you should know that









I has em sames on mines, checky linky for mines buildy thingy tube with ressy setups


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I take it that tube that goes from the top of the Res to the top of the 932 is the filler tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how that is set up though. I'm considering something similar but in original format.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fill port is on the i/o panel, you should know that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I has em sames on mines, checky linky for mines buildy thingy tube with ressy setups
Click to expand...

I know that's how we have it set up in the 932, but his is mocked up no RL yet.









Just ordered the hardware for my drain tube today. Drainage tube is 13" in length not including BP compression Fittings, T block, Enzotech Fem/Fem and Cap. I'm getting this thing done. Slowly but surely.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I know that's how we have it set up in the 932, but his is mocked up no RL yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just ordered the hardware for my drain tube today. Drainage tube is 13" in length not including BP compression Fittings, T block, Enzotech Fem/Fem and Cap. I'm getting this thing done. Slowly but surely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm a bit confused too whether its a 932 at all,









Kewl on the updates


----------



## douglatins

Im in!


----------



## superericla

Should have a new case and 6 fans installed and rearranged in by Monday night!


----------



## RushMore1205

look what i have been playing with lately


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> look what i have been playing with lately


I declare shenanigans.


----------



## RushMore1205

lol declare what you want man, I'm sharing so u guys can see the new tech


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> lol declare what you want man, I'm sharing so u guys can see the new tech


We've all seen pics







We want benches


----------



## RushMore1205

il get fired in a second if i post anything, all i can say is NVIDA surround will not run on one card, heaven benchmark with everything maxed above 29fps in surround, thats all i can say, believe or not


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> il get fired in a second if i post anything, all i can say is NVIDA surround will not run on one card, heaven benchmark with everything maxed above 29fps in surround, thats all i can say, believe or not


Wait.. Wasn't one of the selling points for 680 that it ran Surround off one card? Lol. How did you get Heaven to test in Surround if it wouldn't work?


----------



## RushMore1205

wow i don't know why my phone auto corrected to NOT, its obviously wrong

8 days and 10 hours, ill will spill some serious beans, OCN exclusive, got green light from some people who make the rules


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> wow i don't know why my phone auto corrected to NOT, its obviously wrong
> 8 days and 10 hours, ill will spill some serious beans, OCN exclusive, got green light from some people who make the rules


Makes more sense, lol.

Isn't the NDA being lifted that day for everyone...


----------



## RushMore1205

we are talking about different cards here, there is going to be a special version, which I'm talking about


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> wow i don't know why my phone auto corrected to NOT, its obviously wrong
> 
> 8 days and 10 hours, ill will spill some serious beans, OCN exclusive, got green light from some people who make the rules


Make sure to get it in writing RushMore. Would hate to go to the unemployment line and have you in front of me.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> we are talking about different cards here, there is going to be a special version, which I'm talking about


Hmm









Let's see, Lightning, 4GB, OC, Classified, or some other modifier.

EDIT: Also, how did you end up with one of these?


----------



## MooMoo

How much I could expect from my temps if I crab kit like these http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360-hfx.html or http://www.xs-pc.com/products/watercooling-kits/rasa-750-rx360-watercooling-kit/ ? I can't find nice benchmark charts where is custom water vs air cooling


----------



## WarIV

Nice thread














dual 480 WC comming soon,,, just found very nice 480 or 13x 5.25" Bay Case XD any have 1(+1 rep) ?? ty for all















i read all post befor buying all Extreme WC XD XD and i found most important in WC corosion
>>http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode

Enjoy







rep


----------



## man from atlantis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> il get fired in a second if i post anything, all i can say is NVIDA surround will not run on one card, heaven benchmark with everything maxed above 29fps in surround, thats all i can say, believe or not


Heaven 2.5 or 3.0 ?


----------



## KaRLiToS

I feel like OCN is dead.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I feel like OCN is dead.


Not dead, sleeping. It's the weekend after all. After a hard week of working watercooling, who wouldn't be exhausted.


----------



## KaRLiToS

It's dead since the platform update.

We joined OCN the same month of the same year and we both know OCN had bigger and longer visitors rush with the older platform.


----------



## bundymania

...just playing with some settings


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...just playing with some settings


Is that a sponge inside the res?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> It's dead since the platform update.
> 
> We joined OCN the same month of the same year and we both know OCN had bigger and longer visitors rush with the older platform.


Much needed house cleaning I think. Although Huddler does suck, I doubt that it was the cause of many people just disappearing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...just playing with some settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a sponge inside the res?
Click to expand...

1st Bundy your photography work is always inspiring to say the least. I'm more of a hobbyist atm, but would love to achieve the level that you've attained in your pics. Very nice. :bigeyesm

2nd @Alex132... I believe it is indeed a sponge and it's used for two purposes, anti cyclone device and filter to keep debris out of the pump head.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> It's dead since the platform update.
> We joined OCN the same month of the same year and we both know OCN had bigger and longer visitors rush with the older platform.


I would agree though I wouldn't say its dead, its considerably slowed down. I do remember prior to the update my subscriptions were constantly kicking in. Now, I can go through my subscriptions and it takes a day or two before I have some major activity







. This happened after the new site update.


----------



## Scorpion49

I've created frankencooler today with the parts I had in the house. The reason why? Well none really, I just wanted to try it. I ended up having to add a 3rd pump on the top because I was having a very hard time getting the system to bleed, and the reservoir made it handy to remove the air up at the top. The two varios are on setting 2, and the 655-B is hooked to the CPU fan header for tach sensing. Super ghetto but it was for fun just to see if it would work.


----------



## loganvito




----------



## ZealotKi11er

Some of the builds here are simply amazing. Good Job to all of you for the effort you put on your rigs.


----------



## jellis142

Challenge.

Actually, not a challenge at all... i just need help









I want to grab a loop for leak testing before I grab a CPU, but I don't want to get a RASA kit. Don't like the look of the block, the barbs and the bay reservoir/pump. But I don't want to spend over $200. I also want new, even if a used kit from here would be perfectly suitable. I know nothing about water-cooling, and really want to get my new build set off right from the get-go.

It would be for a single SB-E block. And _maybe_ a GPU and MB block in the near future, but it's not mandatory. (Rampage IV Extreme is the board in question).

I can hold a single slim 240 (no thick models, no extra room for push-pull). I don't care where the pump/res goes (would prefer a single unit), and I *really* want compression fittings, I love the looks, and feel like they are safer then barbs. I don't understand why some fittings have two different size measurements, which confuses me when it comes to which part can fit where.

Thank you







I feel like a jerk for basically hi-jacking a thread, because I don't think it's important enough to start a new one


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> Challenge.
> 
> Actually, not a challenge at all... i just need help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to grab a loop for leak testing before I grab a CPU, but I don't want to get a RASA kit. Don't like the look of the block, the barbs and the bay reservoir/pump. But I don't want to spend over $200. I also want new, even if a used kit from here would be perfectly suitable. I know nothing about water-cooling, and really want to get my new build set off right from the get-go.
> 
> It would be for a single SB-E block. And _maybe_ a GPU and MB block in the near future, but it's not mandatory. (Rampage IV Extreme is the board in question).
> 
> I can hold a single slim 240 (no thick models, no extra room for push-pull). I don't care where the pump/res goes (would prefer a single unit), and I *really* want compression fittings, I love the looks, and feel like they are safer then barbs. I don't understand why some fittings have two different size measurements, which confuses me when it comes to which part can fit where.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like a jerk for basically hi-jacking a thread, because I don't think it's important enough to start a new one


Well you could get this kit...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=59_202_946&products_id=32492
EK-KIT H3O - Supreme LT 240 Water Cooling Kit - EN (Nickel) $198.95

Which is reasonably well put together. It doesn't have the EK High Flow CPU block but it would allow you to jump in get your feet wet and change your block later. The Pumps are supposed to be pretty good and the Radiator is 47mm thick. Add the 25mm fans and the total thickness of the Rad is 72mm, though I'm pretty sure you could get Hank to swap in a pair of the 20mm Medium Speed fans if you have to shave 5mm from the thickness, as the ones included in the kit are Yate Loons and he carries them in his shop.

This kit comes with everything necessary to set up a loop including Compression Fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## jellis142

You and I share brainwaves, that's the EXACT kit I was looking at. I was looking on FrozenCPU, but it wasn't in stock







Thank you for linking a product that's actually available!









Getting it now, I may just stick it on my poor little Phenom II till it has a home in my new system. Take that Tuniq.

Thanks again







Hopefully I can get some real pics in here within the month. Been jealous of all of you for too long.


----------



## bundymania

@Alex132: Yes it is - should prevent the res. from sucking little Air Bubbles in








@Ceadderman: Thanks for your kind words. I´m thinking of buying a better cam (DSLR) one day to improve the pic quality, but not sure if it´s worth it for the pc hobby section, my reviews and some holiday pics.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> @Alex132: Yes it is - should prevent the res. from sucking little Air Bubbles in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Ceadderman: Thanks for your kind words. I´m thinking of buying a better cam (DSLR) one day to improve the pic quality, but not sure if it´s worth it for the pc hobby section, my reviews and some holiday pics.


mind blowing


----------



## ViperSB1

Wish they sold fitting "kits" like that where you could save a bit on extremely overpriced fittings. Maybe then I would switch from barbs to compressions fittings. Or it would be nice if they at least sold them in pairs...


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Wish they sold fitting "kits" like that where you could save a bit on extremely overpriced fittings. Maybe then I would switch from barbs to compressions fittings. Or it would be nice if they at least sold them in pairs...


They do, they're called Monsoon









6 compressions for $36 vs $10 each for Bitspower!


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> @Alex132: Yes it is - should prevent the res. from sucking little Air Bubbles in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Ceadderman: Thanks for your kind words. I´m thinking of buying a better cam (DSLR) one day to improve the pic quality, but not sure if it´s worth it for the pc hobby section, my reviews and some holiday pics.



















Now that's fitting!


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> @Alex132: Yes it is - should prevent the res. from sucking little Air Bubbles in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Ceadderman: Thanks for your kind words. I´m thinking of buying a better cam (DSLR) one day to improve the pic quality, but not sure if it´s worth it for the pc hobby section, my reviews and some holiday pics.


----------



## DrJns

What do you guys think of my new water color?


----------



## kazenagi

Few teasers of my watercool'd 4p goodness.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Few teasers of my watercool'd 4p goodness.




How many cores on each? Are they the 12-cores?


----------



## kazenagi

I got the cheap 8 core opterons for $100 each I would've gotten the 12cores but I'm gonna have to upgrade my gpus for surround haha.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> I got the cheap 8 core opterons for $100 each I would've gotten the 12cores but I'm gonna have to upgrade my gpus for surround haha.


Still 32 cores of folding goodness







(you could just get one AMD card





















)


----------



## kazenagi

I'd go amd if folding was optimized on those always nice to have the option to fold on cards too







Might go amd if they cut prices by a ton after kepler, bound to be price drops in the next few weeks


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> What do you guys think of my new water color?


Nice color mix dude....and i keep my fingers crossed, that you don´t have any probs with the mayhem coolant some weeks later !


----------



## lowfat

I would have gone 4p w/ my upcomng rig if SWTX motherboard trays existed. What blocks are those kazenagi?

From the rig I am currently putting together.


----------



## kazenagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I would have gone 4p w/ my upcomng rig if SWTX motherboard trays existed. What blocks are those kazenagi?
> From the rig I am currently putting together.


I'm using Danger Den MAZE4 blocks with G34 mounting . I see you're using those g34 aquacomputer blocks was about to pull the trigger on those before I emailed Danger Den, they were a tad more expensive and I liked the plexi copper look better. They probably won't perform nearly as good but these chips don't put out much heat anyways.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> I'd go amd if folding was optimized on those always nice to have the option to fold on cards too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might go amd if they cut prices by a ton after kepler, bound to be price drops in the next few weeks


Ah, figured you were using them for gaming since you mentioned surround. Isn't the 7900 series OpenCL ready that [email protected] started using?


----------



## kazenagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Ah, figured you were using them for gaming since you mentioned surround. Isn't the 7900 series OpenCL ready that [email protected] started using?


Gaming and folding from time to time







Dunno about the 7900s since the numbers I've been finding haven't been that appealing, not even double digit ppd.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Gaming and folding from time to time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno about the 7900s since the numbers I've been finding haven't been that appealing, not even double digit ppd.


I believe there's some beta client that increases ppd on amd gpus. I get around 8-9 k ppd on my single 6970.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> What do you guys think of my new water color?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice color mix dude....and i keep my fingers crossed, that you don´t have any probs with the mayhem coolant some weeks later !
Click to expand...

I agree the coolant is









Has there been any reports of it messing anything up? As far as I know the all the pastel colored dyes have been good to go. The Aurora's have had problems, but that is with people trying to use it as a 24/7 coolant, and it wasn't made for that.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I agree the coolant is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has there been any reports of it messing anything up? As far as I know the all the pastel colored dyes have been good to go. The Aurora's have had problems, but that is with people trying to use it as a 24/7 coolant, and it wasn't made for that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Nice color mix dude....and i keep my fingers crossed, that you don´t have any probs with the mayhem coolant some weeks later !


I didn't use the pastels. I used Ice Dragon white and Mayhems' Deep Blue. I'm going to be monitoring everything closely for the next few days/weeks. I'll try leaving my computer off for two days or so and see if it separates and check for sedation. I will paint my fans and CPU block to match and install clear tubing again if the fluid is stable.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I didn't use the pastels. I used Ice Dragon white and Mayhems' Deep Blue. I'm going to be monitoring everything closely for the next few days/weeks. I'll try leaving my computer off for two days or so and see if it separates and check for sedation. I will paint my fans and CPU block to match and install clear tubing again if the fluid is stable.


I used 30ml of deep blue w/ IDC. I used it for ~ 6 months without any issues. I did not dilute the coolant w/ distilled water though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> You and I share brainwaves, that's the EXACT kit I was looking at. I was looking on FrozenCPU, but it wasn't in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for linking a product that's actually available!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting it now, I may just stick it on my poor little Phenom II till it has a home in my new system. Take that Tuniq.
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I can get some real pics in here within the month. Been jealous of all of you for too long.


Tell Hank that Ceadderman sent you. You won't get a discount but maybe I might.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I used 30ml of deep blue w/ IDC. I used it for ~ 6 months without any issues. I did not dilute the coolant w/ distilled water though.


Did it stain your blocks and tubes? I assume that's unavoidable.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I agree the coolant is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has there been any reports of it messing anything up? As far as I know the all the pastel colored dyes have been good to go. The Aurora's have had problems, but that is with people trying to use it as a 24/7 coolant, and it wasn't made for that.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Nice color mix dude....and i keep my fingers crossed, that you don´t have any probs with the mayhem coolant some weeks later !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I didn't use the pastels. I used Ice Dragon white and Mayhems' Deep Blue. I'm going to be monitoring everything closely for the next few days/weeks. I'll try leaving my computer off for two days or so and see if it separates and check for sedation. I will paint my fans and CPU block to match and install clear tubing again if the fluid is stable.
Click to expand...

That is what the Mayhem's is, Ice Dragon plus their dye.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> That is what the Mayhem's is, Ice Dragon plus their dye.


Oh. Thanks, that is good to know.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Did it stain your blocks and tubes? I assume that's unavoidable.


It did cloud up (not plasticize) though when the loop was running. Make the tubing loop quite a bit lighter than the coolant in the reservoir. The tubing was still clear after it was emptied and dried out. The blocks were perfectly fine too.

If you were to use red you most definitely would get staining.

The rig I am in the process of building now is going to be a opaque blood red if I can manage it. I ordered another 40ml of red dye from Mayhems this weekend. Hopefully it turns out.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It did cloud up (not plasticize) though when the loop was running. Make the tubing loop quite a bit lighter than the coolant in the reservoir. The tubing was still clear after it was emptied and dried out. The blocks were perfectly fine too.
> If you were to use red you most definitely would get staining.
> The rig I am in the process of building now is going to be a opaque blood red if I can manage it. I ordered another 40ml of red dye from Mayhems this weekend. Hopefully it turns out.


I saw your blood red -- looks pretty sweet.

So you didn't even need to scrub your reservoir or blocks?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> That is what the Mayhem's is, Ice Dragon plus their dye.


The Mayhems pastel stuff is diluted IDC though. Easier to dye plus it still is opaque when diluted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I saw your blood red -- looks pretty sweet.
> So you didn't even need to scrub your reservoir or blocks?


I cleaned the blocks out with water but that is it.

I haven't used the red coolant yet. I do want it a bit darker than the pic I posted. I needed more red dye plus the case isn't ready.


----------



## lowfat

EDIT: opps.


----------



## 1rkrage

I guess I'm a watercooler now. Thanks for the help on this, guys


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> I guess I'm a watercooler now. Thanks for the help on this, guys


Nice! Did you have air cooling before? Hows your temps dropper?


----------



## WarIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> @Alex132: Yes it is - should prevent the res. from sucking little Air Bubbles in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Ceadderman: Thanks for your kind words. I´m thinking of buying a better cam (DSLR) one day to improve the pic quality, but not sure if it´s worth it for the pc hobby section, my reviews and some holiday pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Few teasers of my watercool'd 4p goodness.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> I guess I'm a watercooler now. Thanks for the help on this, guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/787959/width/600/height/450/flags/][IMG alt="450"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/787959/width/600/height/450[/URL][/QUOTE]
> 
> Nice build man, clean inside [IMG alt="wink.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/wink.gif


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Nice! Did you have air cooling before? Hows your temps dropper?


didn't have air cooling on this specific build before but my D14 build on the previous one had ~65+ on just 4.5 ghz. and 80+ overclocked on 6950/6970

temps for this one are 60c on 4.9 ghz (1.440v) and ~45c on 1.3v for the video card.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Tipless

I actually contacted mayhem because I wanted a milky color liquid and asked if I would be able to achieve this with their pastels. They replied that I would have no issues acheiving that look and no separation issues would occur. They even told me the amount of each to mix. And they said there would be no issues with it as long as it was diluted with distilled and no other additives added


----------



## 1rkrage

Thanks, guys! now I understand how hard, mind-numbing, fun water cooling is


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> I guess I'm a watercooler now. Thanks for the help on this, guys


welcome to awsome temps and insane OC's (compared to air anyway).


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> didn't have air cooling on this specific build before but my D14 build on the previous one had ~65+ on just 4.5 ghz. and 80+ overclocked on 6950/6970
> temps for this one are 60c on 4.9 ghz (1.440v) and ~45c on 1.3v for the video card.


Is that 60C while running Prime95 or something similar? Just trying to compare to my setup.


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Is that 60C while running Prime95 or something similar? Just trying to compare to my setup.


yup. running everything on just a 360 rad though.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> I guess I'm a watercooler now. Thanks for the help on this, guys


You have another space to add a 240 rad below the HDD cage, and a 120 rad at the rear 120 fan.
/justsaying


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Nice! Did you have air cooling before? Hows your temps dropper?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> didn't have air cooling on this specific build before but my D14 build on the previous one had ~65+ on just 4.5 ghz. and 80+ overclocked on 6950/6970
> 
> temps for this one are 60c on 4.9 ghz (1.440v) and ~45c on 1.3v for the video card.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I have to ask this. What fans are you running on that SR1? What's your ambient temp?

That temp even at 4.9Ghz seems crazy high. I'm running an FX-8120 fully loaded at stock clocks(stressing it) using [email protected] v7 for my stressor and it's running CPU at 60-61c, Core 53-57c on the stock cooler. I know that this is an AMD but your temps sound kind of high to me for a SB even OC'ed. I can see 50c, but 60c is running the ragged edge.









I'm thinking that maybe your fans are blowing too fast and not really grabbing the heat since SR1 is a low FPI Radiator. Are you running them full speed or are you running them undervolted via fan controller?









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sorry but I have to ask this. What fans are you running on that SR1? What's your ambient temp?
> That temp even at 4.9Ghz seems crazy high. I'm running an FX-8120 fully loaded at stock clocks(stressing it) using [email protected] v7 for my stressor and it's running CPU at 60-61c, Core 53-57c on the stock cooler. I know that this is an AMD but your temps sound kind of high to me for a SB even OC'ed. I can see 50c, but 60c is running the ragged edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking that maybe your fans are blowing too fast and not really grabbing the heat since SR1 is a low FPI Radiator. Are you running them full speed or are you running them undervolted via fan controller?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


SB runs hotter than AMD typically due to the higher Tj (our's is ~98C while your's is ~65C). 60C is perfectly fine for one 360 handling overclocked CPU + GPU IMO.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sorry but I have to ask this. What fans are you running on that SR1? What's your ambient temp?
> That temp even at 4.9Ghz seems crazy high. I'm running an FX-8120 fully loaded at stock clocks(stressing it) using [email protected] v7 for my stressor and it's running CPU at 60-61c, Core 53-57c on the stock cooler. I know that this is an AMD but your temps sound kind of high to me for a SB even OC'ed. I can see 50c, but 60c is running the ragged edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking that maybe your fans are blowing too fast and not really grabbing the heat since SR1 is a low FPI Radiator. Are you running them full speed or are you running them undervolted via fan controller?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SB runs hotter than AMD typically due to the higher Tj (our's is ~98C while your's is ~65C). 60C is perfectly fine for one 360 handling overclocked CPU + GPU IMO.
Click to expand...

Ah yes. True the GPU is on it but that SR1 is what 9 or 10 FPI? I bet if those fans have some undervolting ability that the temps can come down a bit more. 120 should handle the GPU by itself while 2x120 should easily handle whatever load that CPU is throwing imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Finaly got to start assembling my stuff this weekend. Still alot of work to be done, but here's where I am now.





Hope you like it









/NwP


----------



## Ceadderman

Tha... tha... tha...










Spoiler: Warning: Suggestion!



Now gotta do something with the cable management.











~Ceadder


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> You have another space to add a 240 rad below the HDD cage, and a 120 rad at the rear 120 fan.
> /justsaying


yup. planning on adding a 240 when I add the 2nd 7970 (or switch to the green side). dunno about the 120 rad though









also adding castor wheels at the bottom for better airflow then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sorry but I have to ask this. What fans are you running on that SR1? What's your ambient temp?
> That temp even at 4.9Ghz seems crazy high. I'm running an FX-8120 fully loaded at stock clocks(stressing it) using [email protected] v7 for my stressor and it's running CPU at 60-61c, Core 53-57c on the stock cooler. I know that this is an AMD but your temps sound kind of high to me for a SB even OC'ed. I can see 50c, but 60c is running the ragged edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking that maybe your fans are blowing too fast and not really grabbing the heat since SR1 is a low FPI Radiator. Are you running them full speed or are you running them undervolted via fan controller?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ah yes. True the GPU is on it but that SR1 is what 9 or 10 FPI? I bet if those fans have some undervolting ability that the temps can come down a bit more. 120 should handle the GPU by itself while 2x120 should easily handle whatever load that CPU is throwing imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm using a rheosmart fan controller and AP-15s P/P. Not sure about the fans voltages though cause I did some crazy wiring and might have things undervolted/overvolted. I'm still waiting on the phobya fan splitters; I'll get a better gage of how I'm running then.

I think those temps were when I had the fan controller at about 50%. I think I'm fine unless it is a critical hazard to my wc setup (pump overheating or res breaking, but I think having my rad before the res/pump fixes that) I know in my other system with the raven rv03 and NH-d14 I was getting ~70+ at 4.5 ghz 3.5v with Intel Burn Test on my other i5 so can't complain too much.


----------



## axipher

So I switched out all my fans and now have 5 Medium Speed Yate Loon's running all as Pull and Exhaust. My Fx-8150 at 4.6 GHz with 1.46 V and 1.2125 V on the CPU-NB is pushing 34 C while folding 24/7 and my power supply fan is now the loudest fan on my rig


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## kamikaze_

Waiting on the rest of my compressions. G 1/4 barbs are a tight fit on 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD tubing, it will hold up no problem as far as leaks are concerned.














































Oh yea, did anyone else here ever buy a PrimoChill Myriad D5 reservoir on my last picture?
DO NOT BUY IT, unless you got super glue to seal off all of the leaks on their poor quality seal.
It was definitely not worth my $59, it's so not user friendly, and I almost obliviously burnt my processor to 110 C. because I thought there was flow!!!
For a few hours I thought it was RIP i7 980X when my motherboard would always post error with a red LED next to CPU.
About 4 hours later I gave it one last hope, and my computer booted to Windows fine.

UGH, what a night that was.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Waiting on the rest of my compressions. G 1/4 barbs are a tight fit on 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD tubing, it will hold up no problem as far as leaks are concerned.


I'm assuming you mean 1/2" barbs are a tight fit? G 1/4 is the thread, which 99% of the time, is the same whether you have 1/4" ID tube or 1/2" ID tube. My thermochill.resistor, however, uses G 3/8 threads, so I had to get G 3/8 to G 1/4 adapters to accompany my fittings


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Waiting on the rest of my compressions. G 1/4 barbs are a tight fit on 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD tubing, it will hold up no problem as far as leaks are concerned.


Nice Razor Barracuda! Love mine, except that my card seems bent or mis-shapen. I can't screw it into the PCI bracket without the right side popping out of the PCI slot.


----------



## douglatins

Guys how much radiator it starts to get worse temps with CPU + MOBO + 1GPU? I have a RX360 and a MCR320-XP and im wondering if upgrading to a 560+Rx360 will give me better temps or just equal to worse


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Nice Razor Barracuda! Love mine, except that my card seems bent or mis-shapen. I can't screw it into the PCI bracket without the right side popping out of the PCI slot.


Yeah, it's a classic. It makes good output to my PD3000A receiver but not to my Razer Megalodon headphones because they're USB and not analog. I've had that Razer Barracuda AC-1 since late 2008, it has yet to let me down.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Guys how much radiator it starts to get worse temps with CPU + MOBO + 1GPU? I have a RX360 and a MCR320-XP and im wondering if upgrading to a 560+Rx360 will give me better temps or just equal to worse


You won;t get worse temps unless you are using lots of tubing and restrictive parts and your flow is severely decreased. The more radiator space you add, the less your temperature delta will be and/or the higher you can overclock without seeing a huge change in temperature.


----------



## asakurahao

is it just me or you're having a very bad kink in this picture?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> is it just me or you're having a very bad kink in this picture?


Yeah, was just about to say same thing. I would use a 45°angled fitting to help that. Or drop the gpu to a lower slot.


----------



## kamikaze_

Like I said before, I'm waiting on my fittings.








It is not actually as bad as the angle makes it look either. Everything is flowing smoothly.


----------



## douglatins

How much cooling does one RX360 and a EX360 gives? Is it optimal for how many components in the best case scenario. Like one CPU one mobo and 2 video cards. Is it the best possible meaning a total overkill setup would give 3-4 C less tops?


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> is it just me or you're having a very bad kink in this picture?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, was just about to say same thing. I would use a 45°angled fitting to help that. Or drop the gpu to a lower slot.
Click to expand...





I'd do two of them. Both on the GPU.

~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania




----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


AHHHH I am so jealous right now. If I come to germany, can I come visit?


----------



## jackofhearts495

I've been dying to see more of the Aurora fluid in action... and when can we expect that Aquero controller panel? That thing looks top-notch.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> What do you guys think of my new water color?


Love the color!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> What do you guys think of my new water color?


I want to try this so bad, but clear tube is crapping out (plasticizing) on me







.....wait a minute! Even when the tube plasticized, it looked creamy. By golly, I think I can do it! Yes I shall!

Did you get yours from Mayhems or ID + dye?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I want to try this so bad, but clear tube is crapping out (plasticizing) on me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....wait a minute! Even when the tube plasticized, it looked creamy. By golly, I think I can do it! Yes I shall!
> Did you get yours from Mayhems or ID + dye?


i enjoyed watching your internal struggle. i did ID + dye. i'm going to try orange as soon as i get a new bottle of ID.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Thanks Bundy for your pictures, I always like to stare at them for minutes







You have a lucky job.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


That wb is sexy. Are you going to be posting a review of the coolant? I really would love to see what the red looks like in a system.


----------



## bundymania

Nope, not a real review over weeks, but i will show you guys some pics with the different coolants in a reservoir and tubing and maybe a little action vid on my YT channel


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


When are you starting a classified ad...


----------



## bundymania

BTW: I found this pic from the user "kampfgurke" in forumdeluxx. Mayhems orange & white in action. Looks nice, eh ?!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Nope, not a real review over weeks, but i will show you guys some pics with the different coolants in a reservoir and tubing and maybe a little action vid on my YT channel










Long Live bundymania!!! The watercooling hardware king!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> BTW: I found this pic from the user "kampfgurke" in forumdeluxx. Mayhems orange & white in action. Looks nice, eh ?!


Looks like a shake machine









That's really nice. The orange is ok but I know you can add more dye (and lots of it) to get a deeper pastel color.

Btw, thanks for posting that water cooling pr0n mate


----------



## Ceadderman

I was thinkin that looks more like a Creamcicle.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> BTW: I found this pic from the user "kampfgurke" in forumdeluxx. Mayhems orange & white in action. Looks nice, eh ?!


Have a buddy who would kill for that rig.. He's a huge TN Volunteer fan.


----------



## Antykain

Going to throw my rig into the mix.. These pics were posted in the Switch 810 thread as well. Still a work in progress.









I have 2 EK-FC560 full cover blocks on the way for the 560 Ti's, along with Dual VID connector and some fittings.. I'll be getting a RX240 rad next for the loop.






The 2 full cover blocks for the 560 Ti's will be here Wednesday and will have them installed shortly afterwards. Will post more pics when that time comes..


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> Going to throw my rig into the mix.. These pics were posted in the Switch 810 thread as well. Still a work in progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 EK-FC560 full cover blocks on the way for the 560 Ti's, along with Dual VID connector and some fittings.. I'll be getting a RX240 rad next for the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 full cover blocks for the 560 Ti's will be here Wednesday and will have them installed shortly afterwards. Will post more pics when that time comes..


great photography and nice color coordination man


----------



## kamikaze_

Flash









No flash


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*


Nice kink









EDIT: Maybe I actually see two of them...


----------



## K62-RIG

yep I see 2 kinks. Either side of the video card.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Those are shadows, not kinks.


----------



## 4514kaiser

bottom ones a kink not a bad one would the loop be fine with a kink like that? tops a shadow


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Those are shadows, not kinks.


No, those are definitely kinks.. lol. When the tube is obviously 'flattened' out like that, it's kinda, well.. obvious. He posted some pics of the same rig a few pages back without the side panel on, and they stood out there as well. Easy fix tho, that's the good thing.


----------



## lowfat

A few 45 degree fittings can make a world of difference when it comes to kinking. Personally I think it even looks better.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A few 45 degree fittings can make a world of difference when it comes to kinking. Personally I think it even looks better.


I'm thinking of getting some angled fitting when I re-do my loop. And if I plan on WC'ing my mATX rig, angled fittings are a 100% must have.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## NvidiaStorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> That wb is sexy. Are you going to be posting a review of the coolant? I really would love to see what the red looks like in a system.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Nope, not a real review over weeks, but i will show you guys some pics with the different coolants in a reservoir and tubing and maybe a little action vid on my YT channel


I second that id like to see what that Mayhems pastel light red coolant looks like through clear tubing. That would be great Bundy thanks







.


----------



## kamikaze_

It's just shadows.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> It's just shadows.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> No, those are definitely kinks.. lol. When the tube is obviously 'flattened' out like that, it's kinda, well.. obvious. He posted some pics of the same rig a few pages back without the side panel on, and they stood out there as well. Easy fix tho, that's the good thing.


ha!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> It's just shadows.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> It's just shadows.


No clamps? I'm sure its undersized tubing stretched over larger fittings, but still.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No clamps? I'm sure its undersized tubing stretched over larger fittings, but still.


I don't have the balls to run clampless. Always stuck with compressions since most clamps aren't that sexy and the ones that are end up costing more than compressions by the time ur finished.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> I don't have the balls to run clampless. Always stuck with compressions since most clamps aren't that sexy and the ones that are end up costing more than compressions by the time ur finished.


Me either. I run clamps because compressions would've been triple the price, lol. I will be doing Monsoons when they get the angles finalized in the upcoming weeks


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Me either. I run clamps because compressions would've been triple the price, lol. I will be doing Monsoons when they get the angles finalized in the upcoming weeks


Monsoons seem to be the way to go now unless you're going all out with bitspower "dodecatuple" rotaries. Definitely will be using them in my mountain mods rebuild. Just can't pass them up for the price and the koolance ones are just that little bit more than the monsoons that they can't be justified.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Monsoons seem to be the way to go now unless you're going all out with bitspower "dodecatuple" rotaries. Definitely will be using them in my mountain mods rebuild. Just can't pass them up for the price and the koolance ones are just that little bit more than the monsoons that they can't be justified.


That and the Monsoons are way cooler, lol









But yeah, the angled ones should be ready within the next few weeks


----------



## 1rkrage

they're amazing fittings. I love the tool that comes with it too. I've read people hurting their hands to tighten the bp









For angled I bought the bitspower ones


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> they're amazing fittings. I love the tool that comes with it too. I've read people hurting their hands to tighten the bp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For angled I bought the bitspower ones


No kidding. I have close to 40 BP fittings in my rig and my hands are raw just from disassembling the thing to clean out the radiators, never mind putting putting everything back together and making sure everything is tight. Should really take notes from Koolance on how to make a fitting that does hurt, but just translate that into looking awesome.


----------



## jackofhearts495

I really, really like the look in this pic that Bundy posted. I think the clear tubing over barbs without clamps looks sexy.


----------



## Rowey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is that a sponge inside the res?


Its a filter, almost like the one you would use in am aquarium.


----------



## Onions

so got a q for ya guys... i got a 2500k and 2 6970's going under... will a 180 rad with two of these and a 120 rad with yateloon high-speed fans do the trick.. i only plan on oc the cpu


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> so got a q for ya guys... i got a 2500k and 2 6970's going under... will a 180 rad with two of these and a 120 rad with yateloon high-speed fans do the trick.. i only plan on oc the cpu


I would try to get more rad space. That's equivalent to just over one 360's worth of radiator surface area, so it will work but will limit your CPU OC and your GPUs will get pretty warm.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> so got a q for ya guys... i got a 2500k and 2 6970's going under... will a 180 rad with two of these and a 120 rad with yateloon high-speed fans do the trick.. i only plan on oc the cpu


I wouldn't run it with just those two rads personally.


----------



## jackofhearts495

The biggest advantage you'll get with that setup is silence. If you're okay with just a small decrease in temps, I don't see why not.


----------



## Onions

well its in a tj08-E kinda small and i want it all internal...... and quiet but will it do the trick or do i need to find a way to shove a 240 or atleast another 120 in the bottom?


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> It's just shadows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> ha!


ok.. ok. My bad.









Can we still be friends?


----------



## jackofhearts495

It'll take some cuts to get a 120 in the bottom. I'm not even sure where'd you shove a 240. But again, if you're okay with high temps (but still decent temps compared to stock cooling), I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## Onions

well i spaced it out and i could shove a 240 in the bottom.. but id rather not.. as for the temps.. im comfertable with temps in the 70's lol even 80's at peak times but its not like ill be using more then 1080p so souldnt rly get that high


----------



## jackofhearts495

Then I say stick with the 120+180. I don't even think you'd be getting nearly that high.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> so got a q for ya guys... i got a 2500k and 2 6970's going under... will a 180 rad with two of these and a 120 rad with yateloon high-speed fans do the trick.. i only plan on oc the cpu


Seems doable since the 6970s are not that hot at load on the stock clocks.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> ha!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No clamps? I'm sure its undersized tubing stretched over larger fittings, but still.


Yeah, I don't have any nylon clams that tighten on the tubing. It's holding up fine though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> ok.. ok. My bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can we still be friends?


Sure can!


----------



## axipher

Update on temps. Running 600 mm of RAD space (5x 120 mm) and 5 medium speed Yate Loons, my Bulldozer peaks at 38 C while folding 24/7 but is super silent.


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Then I say stick with the 120+180. I don't even think you'd be getting nearly that high.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Seems doable since the 6970s are not that hot at load on the stock clocks.


ok so imma leave it with the 180 and 120 rads then







)


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No clamps? I'm sure its undersized tubing stretched over larger fittings, but still.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the balls to run clampless. Always stuck with compressions since most clamps aren't that sexy and the ones that are end up costing more than compressions by the time ur finished.
Click to expand...

7/16 tubing and 1/2 barbs is about as close as you can get to being 100% safe as you can get. Some combos of barbs and tubing you have to cut the tubing off because you can not pull it off. Plus I feel it looks super clean. I'm sure you have a couple 1/2 barbs laying around, next time you order some WC'ing stuff buy a foot of 7/16 tubing, you'll won't be scared once you try it.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*


hey kamikaze. if you want another option you can switch the tubes on your nb block and put a 90 degree swivel on top of the gpu block. then you can make a straight shot from the bottom port of the nb block top the top of the gpu block


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> ok so imma leave it with the 180 and 120 rads then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Should be fine; temps should hover below 50°c at load and stock blocks (possibly low 40s).


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> hey kamikaze. if you want another option you can switch the tubes on your nb block and put a 90 degree swivel on top of the gpu block. then you can make a straight shot from the bottom port of the nb block top the top of the gpu block
> *snip*


Yeah, I actually have two of those same Koolance swivel angle barbs on my external radiator right now. But what is going on the top of my water block is going to be a 90 degree compression.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quick question. I'm planning out an mATX build to start in a few months and wanted to snag a few fittings from the marketplace. Does 7/16" x 5/8" seem appropriate for a tight build?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quick question. I'm planning out an mATX build to start in a few months and wanted to snag a few fittings from the marketplace. Does 7/16" x 5/8" seem appropriate for a tight build?


I used 1/2" 3/4" in my NZXT Vulcan so I'm sure 7/16" would be fine.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaStorm*
> 
> I second that id like to see what that Mayhems pastel light red coolant looks like though clear tubing. That would be great Bundy thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


OK, let me search for some tygon tubing and a clear reservoir in my crazy lab where i can fill the coolant in and fire it up with a pump


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> OK, let me search for some tygon tubing and a clear reservoir in my crazy lab where i can fill the coolant in and fire it up with a pump


Are you gonna be showing off the Aurora stuff, too?


----------



## bundymania

Yeah, all what i got from Mayhem - Pastell Stuff and some Aurora as well.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NvidiaStorm*
> 
> I second that id like to see what that Mayhems pastel light red coolant looks like though clear tubing. That would be great Bundy thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> OK, let me search for some tygon tubing and a clear reservoir in my crazy lab where i can fill the coolant in and fire it up with a pump
Click to expand...










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah, all what i got from Mayhem - Pastell Stuff and some Aurora as well.


----------



## bundymania

But now...let´s check this out:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> But now...let´s check this out:


Wow! XSPC is really make headway in the block market!


----------



## sniperskulls

I guess I am in. Granted this photo is before i slapped my gtx 470 in and bled/filled the system. It will have to do because i dont want to take another before I get my 680's in. (I will also include a crappy one taken with my phone of it running)



Phone pic:


Question for anyone using a Koolance CPU 370 on a RIVE board: Did you use the RIVE included backplate for the CPU or did you use the one that koolance included?

Question for anyone using the koolance full RIVE mobo blocks: How/What did you apply to the VRMS? I just pulled the thermal paste from the original mobo cooling blocks and tried to use that, but I am not sure if its the best? Also, what software should I use to monitor that and what is the abbreviation in that software (i.e. HWinfo is it called alttin?, sry so new to this)


----------



## NvidiaStorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> But now...let´s check this out:


I really like that bare copper block and the (it is aluminium right?) part of the mount instead of the clear plastic. I also really like the XSPC RAM block but I think im gona stay with my Mushkin Redline's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniperskulls*
> 
> I guess I am in. Granted this photo is before i slapped my gtx 470 in and bled/filled the system. It will have to do because i dont want to take another before I get my 680's in. (I will also include a crappy one taken with my phone of it running)
> 
> Phone pic:
> 
> Question for anyone using a Koolance CPU 370 on a RIVE board: Did you use the RIVE included backplate for the CPU or did you use the one that koolance included?
> Question for anyone using the koolance full RIVE mobo blocks: How/What did you apply to the VRMS? I just pulled the thermal paste from the original mobo cooling blocks and tried to use that, but I am not sure if its the best? Also, what software should I use to monitor that and what is the abbreviation in that software (i.e. HWinfo is it called alttin?, sry so new to this)


I don't have one but I am getting an LG2011 board soon. I'm going to order the LG2011 screws and from the research I did on it, you just screw on the new screws Koolance should have included on the LG2011 retention bracket. The bolts should have two threads on each end; the shorter threads will go on the cpu retention system and the longer ones will be used to secure you blocks with the thumb screws.

edit: here's the ek setup:


----------



## sniperskulls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I don't have one but I am getting an LG2011 board soon. I'm going to order the LG2011 screws and from the research I did on it, you just screw on the new screws Koolance should have included on the LG2011 retention bracket. The bolts should have two threads on each end; the shorter threads will go on the cpu retention system and the longer ones will be used to secure you blocks with the thumb screws.
> edit: here's the ek setup:


Thats what I did, I just didn't know if I also should have changed the backplate for any reason.....


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

That xspc block combo is heinous compared to its competitors. Def need to hit the drawing boards again


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniperskulls*
> 
> I guess I am in. Granted this photo is before i slapped my gtx 470 in and bled/filled the system. It will have to do because i dont want to take another before I get my 680's in. (I will also include a crappy one taken with my phone of it running)
> 
> Phone pic:
> 
> Question for anyone using a Koolance CPU 370 on a RIVE board: Did you use the RIVE included backplate for the CPU or did you use the one that koolance included?
> Question for anyone using the koolance full RIVE mobo blocks: How/What did you apply to the VRMS? I just pulled the thermal paste from the original mobo cooling blocks and tried to use that, but I am not sure if its the best? Also, what software should I use to monitor that and what is the abbreviation in that software (i.e. HWinfo is it called alttin?, sry so new to this)


U screw everything in to the already mounted front plate on the rive unless you don't have the proper mounting kit for the cpu block to do so. Then u can just swap out the 2011 plate already installed and use a 1366 one. Looks great so far. Seems all u have left is to sleeve those fans.


----------



## bundymania

Mooooreeeeee pR0n



































































































@NvidiaStorm: Yep, it´s an alu plate instead of acrylic


----------



## wermad




----------



## Rowey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks beautiful.


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> Finaly got to start assembling my stuff this weekend. Still alot of work to be done, but here's where I am now.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /NwP


What kind of tubing is that? it looks awesome.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Mooooreeeeee pR0n
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @NvidiaStorm: Yep, it´s an alu plate instead of acrylic


I need to see if they have the AMD counterpart of that Aluminum/Copper Raystorm block. I really want that! I am using the acrylic hold down plate one atm. Must get!!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Mooooreeeeee pR0n


What Heatkiller block is that? Looks like AMD mount?


----------



## bundymania

Well, there was a little exclusive group buy in forumdeluxx.de last year. There were only 20 or 25 plexy tops available, which watercool.de sold to interested users. For the LC and LT HK 3.0
The bottom is stock, except the nickel surface.

I own 2 tops



























That´s the LT version. Logoplate, Cool Cover Mounting Kit and bracket painted by me.


----------



## yevonxxx

is that 19/13 tubes?

what fittings do you have to use them without clamps?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have the start of something new....



Muahahahahahaahaaaaaaa!


----------



## NvidiaStorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Mooooreeeeee pR0n
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @NvidiaStorm: Yep, it´s an alu plate instead of acrylic


Can you buy the alu mounting plate separate from the block? also are they available to buy yet and if so where from? Thanks for the quick reply Bundy







.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> That xspc block combo is heinous compared to its competitors. Def need to hit the drawing boards again










Is that sarcasm? I've had a horrible time identifying it on the internet lately... I think those blocks look absolutley gorgeous.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaStorm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Mooooreeeeee pR0n
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @NvidiaStorm: Yep, it´s an alu plate instead of acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> Can you buy the alu mounting plate separate from the block? also are they available to buy yet and if so where from? Thanks for the quick reply Bundy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

You can get an EK backplate. I wouldn't know where to get one on your side of the Pond but you can easily get them on this side for about $7 +shipping. The nice thing about them is they have a gasket too and they fit everything Intel and AMD.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that sarcasm? I've had a horrible time identifying it on the internet lately... I think those blocks look absolutley gorgeous.


Not at all. IMO XSPC has an issue making its products just plain look cheap compared to EK, Koolance, MIPS, and Aquacomputer.


----------



## wermad

I've had the Rasa and Raystorm cpu block (acetal top) and I have to say it is a big improvement in quality. It looks a lot better than the Rasa as well.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Not at all. IMO XSPC has an issue making its products just plain look cheap compared to EK, Koolance, MIPS, and Aquacomputer.


I'll take performance over looks anyday...


----------



## M0J0

Hello OCN Water cooling Club.
this is my gaming rig & would like to join the club
best regards,
MOJO


----------



## Angrybutcher

^ I like the yellow fluid with green tubes


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have the start of something new....
> 
> Muahahahahahaahaaaaaaa!


Eeek







... That's one hot hotness!!!


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yevonxxx*
> 
> is that 19/13 tubes?
> what fittings do you have to use them without clamps?


Yep and i was using 13mm Bitspower Fittings. It was ok for me, coz i´m using this sys. more like a show pc and a for a case review (XSPC)...for a very short period...so i had no nightmares with this setup







BUT, when you wanna use such a combo over a long period, i strongly recommend to use clamps !!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have the start of something new....
> 
> Muahahahahahaahaaaaaaa!


No one mentioned this?

Is that the SR-X or SR-2?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No one mentioned this?
> Is that the SR-X or SR-2?


SR2.

Here's the SRX:


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

New DT 5Noz


----------



## Ceadderman

I'd rather have my EK Supreme HF in Classified Red










But that 5Noz is pretty nice looking. Might want to edit out that hair though.









~Ceadder


----------



## M0J0

wow! i need to photoshop my picture. Its Thermaltake Coolant UV Sensitive High Performance Fluid
Thanks for the head up


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Amazing job on the render, what program?
> And I would say needs another GPU


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> +1 on both accounts. Amazing job on the render and what did you do to do it? Looks amazing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I take it that tube that goes from the top of the Res to the top of the 932 is the filler tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how that is set up though. I'm considering something similar but in original format.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder




I use sketchup along with a rendering program called renditioner (the free version) which limits you to 600 x 480 but it looks good none the less and really easy to use. Hey ceadder, yeah that tube was for filling and I was going to put a fill port in there but decided against it. I hope you guys like the new and final (hopefully) mock up.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have the start of something new....
> 
> Muahahahahahaahaaaaaaa!


Kind of late to be building one of those now, then again the average consumer with some or a lot of custom water cooling do not use those motherboards or feel the need to have two quad/two hexa core processors at once and spend so much money. What processors are you planning on buying for it?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Kind of late to be building one of those now, then again the average consumer with some or a lot of custom water cooling do not use those motherboards or feel the need to have two quad/two hexa core processors at once and spend so much money. What processors are you planning on buying for it?


what? the average consumer doesn't have watercooling and the average watercooler has a 10C+ delta so it's obvious they would never buy something like that. A rig housing a SR-2/ SR-X most likely has a $2000+ watercooling system. Far from average.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Amazing job on the render, what program?
> And I would say needs another GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> +1 on both accounts. Amazing job on the render and what did you do to do it? Looks amazing
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I take it that tube that goes from the top of the Res to the top of the 932 is the filler tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how that is set up though. I'm considering something similar but in original format.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> I use sketchup along with a rendering program called renditioner (the free version) which limits you to 600 x 480 but it looks good none the less and really easy to use. Hey ceadder, yeah that tube was for filling and I was going to put a fill port in there but decided against it. I hope you guys like the new and final (hopefully) mock up.
Click to expand...

I would put the fillport back or at least drop the two devices down one bay and use the stock filler port opening. Could also put a faceplate on the bay to make it cleaner looking. Don't have to, but it's something I would do for both sides. I'm assuming your drain is in the bottom with the Radiator so I can't see anything wrong with your mock up other than that. It's a great design though.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Kind of late to be building one of those now, then again the average consumer with some or a lot of custom water cooling do not use those motherboards or feel the need to have two quad/two hexa core processors at once and spend so much money. What processors are you planning on buying for it?
> 
> 
> 
> what? the average consumer doesn't have watercooling and the average watercooler has a 10C+ delta so it's obvious they would never buy something like that. A rig housing a SR-2/ SR-X most likely has a $2000+ watercooling system. Far from average.
Click to expand...

No doubt. I was gonna say that. Considering that's an i7 board with dual sockets the amount of money to go into it easily creeps up on $2500 depending on the Hardware used just on the board alone. 4 Classified 580s'? 32...scuse me 24GB of Ram and CPU with Soundcard? That's a lot of heat and air won't keep up with that.









I saw that board and got an instant semi.









~Ceadder


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> What kind of tubing is that? it looks awesome.


Thanks









I'm not 100% sure because I got it 2nd hand, but something like ClearFlex60 and Tygon R3400, both ½" ID.
The liquid is distilled water with 1:20 Swiftech HydrX Extreme Duty Coolant.

Next up is:
- laser-cut rear panel for the PSU and drain
- frosted acrylic for the midplate with passthroughs
- fill port
- HDD tray
- etc...
- sleeve-job and of course (Ceadder) cable management (but you know, Nils is so busy)









Question for you guys,

With the EK universal cpu backplate, what are the height of the POM standoffs? I somehow lost mine, and had to use a couble of stacked nylon washers.
I would like to get it done properly as I'm taking off the block anyway.

/NwP


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Kind of late to be building one of those now, then again the average consumer with some or a lot of custom water cooling do not use those motherboards or feel the need to have two quad/two hexa core processors at once and spend so much money. What processors are you planning on buying for it?


2 x5650 hexacores.

How is it late? Show me another dual socket overclocking board,SR-X doesnt even come close thanks to intel locking the new SB xeons.


----------



## jellis142

Even getting the cheapest 1366 Xeon's, you still have a ton of CPU muscle. Nothing wrong then that. Get a used board and processors, you could get 16 threads for the price of 12 (SB-E).

Multi-threaded programs will love you. Not to mention the e-peen from having an SR-2 in the first place.


----------



## 4514kaiser

The SR-2 with 2 Xeon processers OC is still amazingly powerful far more powerful than a 3930K 3960X most people were getting OC around 4ghz from memory on the SR-2. With everything being locked on the new Xeon processors for the SR-X (correct me If I'm wrong) the SR-2 might still be the option for people who want or need this much processing power!


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Bundy, are those the "Carbon Black" specy? How different are they from the standard matte black?


They are more matte







*Left: Matte Black Right: Carbon Black*










*Left: Carbon Black Right: Matte Black*










*Left: Carbon Black Right: Matte Black*










_*More Carbon Black*_














































more pics
http://foro.noticias3d.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=338654&p=4161890&viewfull=1#post4161890


----------



## (sic)

^









Found my next purchase!


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can get an EK backplate. I wouldn't know where to get one on your side of the Pond but you can easily get them on this side for about $7 +shipping. The nice thing about them is they have a gasket too and they fit everything Intel and AMD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dazmode.com has the XSPC Alu Plate in stock - only available for Intel Systems.

Look at this stylish combo now


----------



## Ceadderman

That's why the EK plate is best Bundy. You're covered no matter Intel or AMD.









He's in the UK though so Daz Mode is still overseas shipping.









Don't know what EK would want for the plate and gasket without going to Eddy's site. Sorry this is my lone lazy moment of the day.









~Ceadder


----------



## TwentyCent

@ASO7 : Did you get them directly from BP?


----------



## (sic)

@TwentyCent

You can only order the Carbon Black fittings directly from them. Bitspower Taiwan On-Line Shop


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Considering that's an i7 board with dual sockets the amount of money to go into it easily creeps up on $2500 depending on the Hardware used just on the board alone. 4 Classified 580s'? 32...scuse me 24GB of Ram and CPU with Soundcard? That's a lot of heat and air won't keep up with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw that board and got an instant semi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


48Gb can be supported...i will run 12gb to start,dont fancy overly stressing the IMC on expensive-to -replace x5650's......once clocked,this will FLY!


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> @ASO7 : Did you get them directly from BP?


BP sponsors me...

But you can order them *here.*


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Considering that's an i7 board with dual sockets the amount of money to go into it easily creeps up on $2500 depending on the Hardware used just on the board alone. 4 Classified 580s'? 32...scuse me 24GB of Ram and CPU with Soundcard? That's a lot of heat and air won't keep up with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw that board and got an instant semi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 48Gb can be supported...i will run 12gb to start,dont fancy overly stressing the IMC on expensive-to -replace x5650's......once clocked,this will FLY!
Click to expand...

I know. That's why I stated 24.







6x4g is better for OC than 12x4g.









I concur. May come to your house an liberate your system when it's built. Would look very nice on my table.







heheh
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> @ASO7 : Did you get them directly from BP?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BP sponsors me...
> 
> But you can order them *here.*
Click to expand...

You guys in the States could probably talk to Performance-PCs and show enough interest in them to get them to add the Mattes' to their catalog or at the very least see if they'll include some in their next shipment from BP. You'd still have to pay shipping from Florida, but that's better than shipping from Taiwan.









~Ceadder


----------



## matan11

Here is my 600T white edition with 360rad.
I hope you like it.


----------



## PeteJM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> Here is my 600T white edition with 360rad.
> I hope you like it.


I really like the build so far. Are you going to be water cooling the GPU anytime soon? That 360 should handle both easily


----------



## matan11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeteJM*
> 
> I really like the build so far. Are you going to be water cooling the GPU anytime soon? That 360 should handle both easily


Yes thats the plan but I dont think on this card.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> Here is my 600T white edition with 360rad.
> I hope you like it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Its beautiful. And this makes me remember my first ever graphics card the good ole' 5870 it was a beast.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> Yes thats the plan but I dont think on this card.


What material is that black cover? I need something like that.


----------



## matan11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> What material is that black cover? I need something like that.


its a simple metal plate which i have painted black.

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its beautiful. And this makes me remember my first ever graphics card the good ole' 5870 it was a beast.


lol, its also my first graphics card and btw my first watercooled build


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> its a simple metal plate which i have painted black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, its also my first graphics card and btw my first watercooled build


Alright thanks for the info. Damn I haven't worked with metal before. I need to find some other sort of material....


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> its a simple metal plate which i have painted black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, its also my first graphics card and btw my first watercooled build


Your system looks amazing, what did you use to fab the metal parts?


----------



## TwentyCent

Dayum these fans look so nice! What are they? Sweet build man, except I prefer the look of slighlty bigger tubing


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> Here is my 600T white edition with 360rad.
> I hope you like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


that fans are? very nice.


----------



## matan11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> Your system looks amazing, what did you use to fab the metal parts?


simple spray paint.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*
> 
> that fans are? very nice.


The Fans are from Alpenföhn (Alpenföhn 120mm Wing Boost Plus).

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Luefter/Alpenfoehn:::26_10175.html


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> simple spray paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Fans are from Alpenföhn (Alpenföhn 120mm Wing Boost Plus).
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Luefter/Alpenfoehn:::26_10175.html


But I mean, when you have a metal sheet how do you bent it like that? Do you need special tools?


----------



## matan11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> But I mean, when you have a metal sheet how do you bent it like that? Do you need special tools?


Of Course. My brother is metalworker,he has made the bend. The rest I have done with Flex.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> its a simple metal plate which i have painted black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, its also my first graphics card and btw my first watercooled build


You guys are making me feel really old. My first graphics card was a radeon 9200.


----------



## KaRLiToS

My first PC was build around 1998, I was 14 at this time







ATI Rage 128


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> My first PC was build around 1998, I was 14 at this time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ATI Rage 128


that was the first decent video card my dad got. I think that was in the first custom built computer he did. He got a 1ghz socket A chip with an ATI Rage 128. I remember it came with the centipede game, and it was epic fun.
that was in like 1999 or something.

I was only 9 years old when he built that computer.
I know the first computer my dad got was an IBM PC jr. which was also the first computer I ever used.


----------



## wermad

@Matan11 that are some very nice looking fans and awesome metal work.

woot woot







more upgrades for me, will post new setup when it arrives.


----------



## matan11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Matan11 that are some very nice looking fans and awesome metal work.
> woot woot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more upgrades for me, will post new setup when it arrives.


thx


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> its a simple metal plate which i have painted black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, its also my first graphics card and btw my first watercooled build
> 
> 
> 
> You guys are making me feel really old. My first graphics card was a radeon 9200.
Click to expand...

Don't even mention old. My first GPU, was back in 94 and they didn't have water cooling yet. The rest of my systems previously had onboard VGA to my knowledge. Course that was during Highschool when there weren't many if any PC games that interested me.









I can't tell you what we had when I was in the service. Not because I have to kill you, but because I didn't pull maintenance of them.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> Here is my 600T white edition with 360rad.
> I hope you like it.






Wow nice work on getting a 360 radiator up there, and the custom shrouds looks good, very nice


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> its a simple metal plate which i have painted black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, its also my first graphics card and btw my first watercooled build
> 
> 
> 
> Alright thanks for the info. Damn I haven't worked with metal before. I need to find some other sort of material....
Click to expand...

Acrylic work good too, check out my Lian Li in my sig. It's not finished but you'll get the idea. You just paint the backside of it and it looks like glass.


----------



## Cord78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> You guys are making me feel really old. My first graphics card was a radeon 9200.


My first "real" video card was a Voodoo3... so imagine how old I feel.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Voodoo 3



Why watercool when you don't need any fan. passive GPU.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Voodoo 3
> 
> Why watercool when you don't need any fan. passive GPU.


because overkill for overkill's sake is awsome!!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Voodoo 3
> 
> 
> 
> Why watercool when you don't need any fan. passive GPU.


Please you'll need a 360 rad for that at least.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Acrylic work good too, check out my Lian Li in my sig. It's not finished but you'll get the idea. You just paint the backside of it and it looks like glass.


Thanks for the info. For my first mod it looks like I will need to use acrylic. I just don't know how to join two sides to make a 90 degree properly. I will need to look into this so I will be able to make a clean build.


----------



## wireeater

Nothing special at all compared to some of the work in here! When I built the PC last month I didn't plan going with a colored theme but since I started seeing the work on here, I decided to go with the black and red which I then painted the case with some red, worn accents. Then only peeve I have is the blue on the MB now.. lol. I also put it new red LED NZXT fan controller and power button assembly (not pictured). They were extremely cool and sent me them to replace the blue free of change.

I did have 24 and 6 pin red sleeved NZXT connectors but Amazon flaked out on my order a few weeks back so I canceled. I will eventually get them and put them in. I got the 8 pin and they are nice looking cords.

I just built this the other night. This is my first water loop. I took my time and everything seemed to work right from the go.

I will get more pictures eventually. My intentions were to build a functional loop first then maybe dress it up later. I wasn't trying to spend 100+$ in fittings. I went with Enzotech barbs and just used some hose clamp at the end. I have already went WAY over my budget on this PC and I can honestly blame this site for it...!









360 @ top, snug fit but it's in there.


----------



## wermad

Savage S3, my first:



later on, I got a job at the local grocery store and bought a Riva TNT2







:


----------



## WolfssFang

Its amazing how cards have evolved. This is my first water cooling setup.


----------



## WarIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> its a simple metal plate which i have painted black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, its also my first graphics card and btw my first watercooled build


Nice job







+1Rep !! home made is the best !!


----------



## matan11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarIV*
> 
> Nice job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1Rep !! home made is the best !!


thx a lot


----------



## DevilDriver

Getting ready to make major changes to my set up. Going to black tubing, and Monsoon compression fittings. will post pic's as soon as its done.

Gota say looking through this thread things have came a long way since back in 04 when I first got into all of this!









Back then if there were wires all over the place no one really said any thing and people doing wc'ing were doing alot of things on there own. there wasnt any one really making rad's and all the accessories we have now!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Acrylic work good too, check out my Lian Li in my sig. It's not finished but you'll get the idea. You just paint the backside of it and it looks like glass.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. For my first mod it looks like I will need to use acrylic. I just don't know how to join two sides to make a 90 degree properly. I will need to look into this so I will be able to make a clean build.
Click to expand...

You can do this many ways, you can bend it, use a brace on the underside to attach it to, screw them together. But really you can do all of this with metal too. Aluminum is probably the easiest metal to work with, in some ways even easier than acrylic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wireeater*
> 
> Nothing special at all compared to some of the work in here! When I built the PC last month I didn't plan going with a colored theme but since I started seeing the work on here, I decided to go with the black and red which I then painted the case with some red, worn accents. Then only peeve I have is the blue on the MB now.. lol. I also put it new red LED NZXT fan controller and power button assembly (not pictured). They were extremely cool and sent me them to replace the blue free of change.
> 
> I did have 24 and 6 pin red sleeved NZXT connectors but Amazon flaked out on my order a few weeks back so I canceled. I will eventually get them and put them in. I got the 8 pin and they are nice looking cords.
> 
> I just built this the other night. This is my first water loop. I took my time and everything seemed to work right from the go.
> 
> I will get more pictures eventually. My intentions were to build a functional loop first then maybe dress it up later. I wasn't trying to spend 100+$ in fittings. I went with Enzotech barbs and just used some hose clamp at the end. I have already went WAY over my budget on this PC and I can honestly blame this site for it...!


I like







It reminds me of Gears of War for some reason.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Getting ready to make major changes to my set up. Going to black tubing, and Monsoon compression fittings. will post pic's as soon as its done.
> 
> Gota say looking through this thread things have came a long way since back in 04 when I first got into all of this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back then if there were wires all over the place no one really said any thing and people doing wc'ing were doing alot of things on there own. there wasnt any one really making rad's and all the accessories we have now!


I would say building PC's has come a long ways. Everything component has improved from looks, to performance, to build quality. Just look at MB's from a couple years back, you had to spend a lot of money on a MB just so it wasn't ugly, even then they mostly had something that was ugly on them. But water cooling is slowly becoming more and more main stream. I think the AIO kits like Corsair have pushed a lot of people in to it, that and the prices for a lot of it has come down to an affordable level for a basic loop.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You can do this many ways, you can bend it, use a brace on the underside to attach it to, screw them together. But really you can do all of this with metal too. Aluminum is probably the easiest metal to work with, in some ways even easier than acrylic.
> I like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It reminds me of Gears of War for some reason.
> I would say building PC's has come a long ways. Everything component has improved from looks, to performance, to build quality. Just look at MB's from a couple years back, you had to spend a lot of money on a MB just so it wasn't ugly, even then they mostly had something that was ugly on them. But water cooling is slowly becoming more and more main stream. I think the AIO kits like Corsair have pushed a lot of people in to it, that and the prices for a lot of it has come down to an affordable level for a basic loop.


Thanks for the info. I didn't know I could bend plexi to get a 90degree angle. I wonder if that's how k.enny does it


----------



## tiborrr12

My first water cooled rig in 2003 (some old Codegen chassis) with Yugo copper/brass heatercore:










Inside


----------



## Captivate

Awesome. I watercooled my CPU somewhere in 2002/2003 as well with a Danger Den Maze2 block, and a radiator (like 15cm x 15cm I think) I picked up at a local car shop for 10E. I had a submerged pump in a bucket of tap water and no fan on the rad. Unfortunately I can't find the pictures anymore


----------



## Tectonic

my watercooling project.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here is a review i made with 60 photo and video.

http://myplaisio.gr/user-labs/custom-watercooling-project

Its in greek but you can google translate it or just check the photos and video









Hope you like it


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


>











First reaction; then noticed it was from 2003.


----------



## de Cossatot




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tectonic*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> my watercooling project.
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> Here is a review i made with 60 photo and video.
> http://myplaisio.gr/user-labs/custom-watercooling-project
> Its in greek but you can google translate it or just check the photos and video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it


What dye/coolant are you using?


----------



## Tectonic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tectonic*
> 
> my watercooling project.
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> Here is a review i made with 60 photo and video.
> http://myplaisio.gr/user-labs/custom-watercooling-project
> Its in greek but you can google translate it or just check the photos and video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it


if you check the review i say it.

But anyway







its Ek green lime.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *de Cossatot*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


With that fillport it looks like a contraband pipe in camouflage.









Glad I'm going with Black Ice 360 though. Seeing a Radiator take up half my window would drive my wonky. That Xoxide Radiator is quite thick isn't it.









Gonna be taking another step soon for my loop gang. Got $80 sitting here on my desk waiting to be put into the bank and then another couple days for their cousin's Andy and Jackson And Jack and Andrew to join them. As the Grateful Dead once said "What a long Strange Trip it's been". I feel ansty now but I cannot wait to get this system quiet, and running better temps on the Mainboard.









Gonna be watercooling the RAID drive in the 5.25 bay as well, so hope to have some time with a drill to yank the HDD cage as well, since I found my old IDE 5.25 brackets to mount the Raid Drive in the 5.25 bay.









Oy!







Almost forgot to ask if anyone knows the distance from the top fitting from EK Formula IV FC block to CPU block? I'm considering doing D plug connection there but PPCs' only has 1" unit. I'm pretty sure I need at least a couple of male/female connections to get it right but not being sure of the overall length don't want to be stuck waiting and not being able to Fold. Any help would be appreciated on this matter.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *de Cossatot*


The Hinne goes well with the green touches on your rig


----------



## glakr

Redid the office today and finally took some time to take some pictures of my WC rig that I finished a couple months ago. Really meant to do a whole build log, but found it hard to even find the time to build it up and then forgot to take pictures when I was finished.

This is my first WC build. I didn't run into too many issues and it has been running great.

Thanks to everybody who has posted pictures and ideas on here it inspired me to do this (and spend way too much money). And also for the help when needed.

Specs and most al parts including WC are listed in sig. It was a little dustier in there than I noticed when taking the pictures. But not too bad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nvm with the D plug info request guys. Decided to go with Black Koolance SLI 2-3 space fitting instead. That should be more than enough fitting to bridge the gap. And in the final tally sheet ends up being cheaper too.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nvm with the D plug info request guys. Decided to go with Black Koolance SLI 2-3 space fitting instead. That should be more than enough fitting to bridge the gap. And in the final tally sheet ends up being cheaper too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just an fyi: The Bits d-plug, minus the threads (~10mm). I bought the wrong d-plugs initially (got the smallest ones) and ended up with the right ones after checking out swc.com (got the 1" or 35mm ones).

So far, i know these are the ones they offer:

-25mm BP-WTP-C28, the body is ~15mm (minus threads)
-30mm BP-WTP-C07, body is ~20mm (minus threads)
-35mm aka 1" BP-WTP-C38, body ~25mm (minus threads).

I hope this helps someone and avoid buying the wrong one. Just make sure you measure from the top of the lower block to bottom of the upper block. Obviously this is for blocks about two slots apart. Anything wider, you'll need other "sli/crossfire" fittings/setups.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nvm with the D plug info request guys. Decided to go with Black Koolance SLI 2-3 space fitting instead. That should be more than enough fitting to bridge the gap. And in the final tally sheet ends up being cheaper too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just an fyi: The Bits d-plug, minus the threads (~10mm). I bought the wrong d-plugs initially (got the smallest ones) and ended up with the right ones after checking out swc.com (got the 1" or 35mm ones).
> 
> So far, i know these are the ones they offer:
> 
> -25mm BP-WTP-C28, the body is ~15mm (minus threads)
> -30mm BP-WTP-C07, body is ~20mm (minus threads)
> -35mm aka 1" BP-WTP-C38, body ~25mm (minus threads).
> 
> I hope this helps someone and avoid buying the wrong one. Just make sure you measure from the top of the lower block to bottom of the upper block. Obviously this is for blocks about two slots apart. Anything wider, you'll need other "sli/crossfire" fittings/setups.
Click to expand...

Thanks werm. I had the 1" fitting in my cart, but for $9 + x? for 1 or 2 more fittings, I just decided that a 3 Card SLi fitting would be better at ~$15. I've got two BP 90Deg fittings and will be crossing to the top fitting of the EK block. So after looking at the distance to cover and comparing it to my 1st and 3rd slot, I think that it'll fit just fine. Might look a little odd, but I can handle that I think. It's either that or get a couple stubby barbs and bridge it with tubing.









I'm going from the top outlet on the Full Coverage block to the top Inlet of my HF CPU block. It's not actually an SLi/XFire setup, Just trying to hardline the connection. I saw how close it was and decided to forgo the 45Deg/Compression connection. Would put a pretty big kink in it even if I did the tubing filled w/rope from boiling water to cold water trick.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

swc.com has them cheaper but I had to buy a quad sli bridge so I bought them from ppcs.com since they had both. They were $8 a pop (swc.com @ $6.50). You just need one for two blocks and series/serial, two for parallel or three blocks in series, four for three blocks in parallel or four blocks in series, and six for four blocks in parallel.

I would like to note that a little silicone grease is a must for d-plugs.


----------



## DevilDriver

Serious input, I'm looking to get a new case that can fit my water loop inside completely.
I'm considering a Silverstone Raven V3 or a CoolerMaster Haf-932 advanced. what do you all think?
I'm kind of partial to the Raven but not sure if every thing will fit. its got to take a swiftech 120x2 rad and a danger den black ice gtx extreme 120mm rad inside with out issue or modification.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Serious input, I'm looking to get a new case that can fit my water loop inside completely.
> I'm considering a Silverstone Raven V3 or a CoolerMaster Haf-932 advanced. what do you all think?
> I'm kind of partial to the Raven but not sure if every thing will fit. its got to take a swiftech 120x2 rad and a danger den black ice gtx extreme 120mm rad inside with out issue or modification.


Both are good choices. For novices, the 932 is a great platform to build on your experience. The Raven is very unique a platform. The bottom houses three 180mm fans and it should accommodate a 240mm easily though keep it mind whether you'll be using an ex-atx mb and/or a thick radiator. As an alternative, there have been builds where they have fitted a 180x3 radiator with some mods (not extreme modding tbh).


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Serious input, I'm looking to get a new case that can fit my water loop inside completely.
> I'm considering a Silverstone Raven V3 or a CoolerMaster Haf-932 advanced. what do you all think?
> I'm kind of partial to the Raven but not sure if every thing will fit. its got to take a swiftech 120x2 rad and a danger den black ice gtx extreme 120mm rad inside with out issue or modification.


I vote spend a little more and get the NZXT Switch 810. Fits a 360/420 and a 240/280 internal









Tons of info here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1209048/official-nzxt-switch-810-thread#post_16353337


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I vote spend a little more and get the NZXT Switch 810. Fits a 360/420 and a 240/280 internal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tons of info here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1209048/official-nzxt-switch-810-thread#post_16353337


That's a great choice as well. I would take this over the 932 and the Raven tbh.


----------



## mad87645

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Serious input, I'm looking to get a new case that can fit my water loop inside completely.
> I'm considering a Silverstone Raven V3 or a CoolerMaster Haf-932 advanced. what do you all think?
> I'm kind of partial to the Raven but not sure if every thing will fit. its got to take a swiftech 120x2 rad and a danger den black ice gtx extreme 120mm rad inside with out issue or modification.


I'm currently doing an air cooled build for a friend in the Raven, So I can tell you now the water cooling options for this case are great. The bottom will take a 360 rad With bit of modding (has space, needs mounting), You can throw a 120 on the top and rip out the 5.25' hard drive cages, put in some mesh ones and put a 240 in the front, Just mount all your drives in the back (Its a bit of a hassle with the rubber grommet mounts they use but I've done it). It would be a bit tricky to mount a pump and res but I suppose you could sacrifice 120mm in the front and run a bay pump/res combo, Or take a tubular res with the pump mounted below and double sided tape it to the rear wall vertically.


----------



## jethsmart

hi I would like to join the club. here is my simple Thermaltake Bigwater 760 plus cooling my intel i7 990x CPU and my Rampage III extreme Motherboard with EK blocks.


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glakr*
> 
> Redid the office today and finally took some time to take some pictures of my WC rig that I finished a couple months ago. Really meant to do a whole build log, but found it hard to even find the time to build it up and then forgot to take pictures when I was finished.
> This is my first WC build. I didn't run into too many issues and it has been running great.
> Thanks to everybody who has posted pictures and ideas on here it inspired me to do this (and spend way too much money). And also for the help when needed.
> Specs and most al parts including WC are listed in sig. It was a little dustier in there than I noticed when taking the pictures. But not too bad.


nice clean build, man! I wanna do that drain port next time I make upgrades to mine


----------



## Rops84

I want in!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















I had a lot of fun putting this together; so i hope U enjoy!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *glakr*
> 
> Redid the office today and finally took some time to take some pictures of my WC rig that I finished a couple months ago. Really meant to do a whole build log, but found it hard to even find the time to build it up and then forgot to take pictures when I was finished.
> This is my first WC build. I didn't run into too many issues and it has been running great.
> Thanks to everybody who has posted pictures and ideas on here it inspired me to do this (and spend way too much money). And also for the help when needed.
> Specs and most al parts including WC are listed in sig. It was a little dustier in there than I noticed when taking the pictures. But not too bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice clean build, man! I wanna do that drain port next time I make upgrades to mine
Click to expand...

That case is HUGE!!! Drain ports are very nice to have, really beats pull the CPU block off and pulling a hose trying not to make a mess.


----------



## WarIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> swc.com has them cheaper but I had to buy a quad sli bridge so I bought them from ppcs.com since they had both. They were $8 a pop (swc.com @ $6.50). You just need one for two blocks and series/serial, two for parallel or three blocks in series, four for three blocks in parallel or four blocks in series, and six for four blocks in parallel.
> I would like to note that a little silicone grease is a must for d-plugs.


the best way for best CPU/ MB/ RAM/ VGA Cooling is parallel !! I know RIG got more tubing in Parallel WC, so all have same water temp








If you make 4 Sli/Cross in series,,the last VGA grab very hot water !!!







Little sillicone grease or little white grease on your fitting ring preserve them for several years the tightness.I make this with all cars and truck when i put new ring


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarIV*
> 
> the best way for best CPU/ MB/ RAM/ VGA Cooling is parallel !! I know RIG got more tubing in Parallel WC, so all have same water temp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you make 4 Sli/Cross in series,,the last VGA grab very hot water !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little sillicone grease or little white grease on your fitting ring preserve them for several years the tightness.I make this with all cars and truck when i put new ring


Parallel is only good when all the blocks have exactly the same restriction. If one has more restriction than the others, it's flow will suffer greatly.


----------



## WarIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Parallel is only good when all the blocks have exactly the same restriction. If one has more restriction than the others, it's flow will suffer greatly.


I no that







I work with electric/ air and hydraulique system,,, all there take easy way before wrong way so,,, if you have dual pump in parallel and reach good pressure.... that's look better ??


----------



## Tipless

need clear UV tubing recommendation in 7/16" ID any help?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *glakr*
> 
> Redid the office today and finally took some time to take some pictures of my WC rig that I finished a couple months ago. Really meant to do a whole build log, but found it hard to even find the time to build it up and then forgot to take pictures when I was finished.
> This is my first WC build. I didn't run into too many issues and it has been running great.
> Thanks to everybody who has posted pictures and ideas on here it inspired me to do this (and spend way too much money). And also for the help when needed.
> Specs and most al parts including WC are listed in sig. It was a little dustier in there than I noticed when taking the pictures. But not too bad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice clean build, man! I wanna do that drain port next time I make upgrades to mine
Click to expand...

Soon as my order shows up I'll put my drain together and have it mounted to my Res/Pump setup to show you a good one. It really is very simplistic the way it's set up. And in my case it's at the lowest point of the loop for quick drainage of the system. I've pretty much already got it set up. Just waiting on two pieces to complete this section.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> need clear UV tubing recommendation in 7/16" ID any help?


There's good info in my sig link to help you out


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> need clear UV tubing recommendation in 7/16" ID any help?


There isn't any that is good. 

Your best bet would be to add some UV reactive dye/coolant.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated

edit: hey, we passed 3,000,000 views recently!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> edit: hey, we passed 3,000,000 views recently!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

we are almost caught up to the corsair Hxxx thread, haha

I still think it is ridiculous they have more posts and views than this thread and this one was started first...

They are all that stands in the way of this thread being the most popular thread in the WC forum on this site (by view count)


----------



## superericla

Updated my build log today!


----------



## wermad

more stuff came in. Sadly, ppcs.com hasn't shipped my lg2011 screws
















I should just file down the ek ones and see if that works









@WarIV. I always recommend parallel if you are using the same blocks. One thing about parallel, is that its expensive if you are going to use fittings to link the cards.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I vote spend a little more and get the NZXT Switch 810. Fits a 360/420 and a 240/280 internal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tons of info here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1209048/official-nzxt-switch-810-thread#post_16353337


^^ THIS!! Switch 810 Gets my vote as well.. I've been really impressed with this case since getting it and getting my w/c setup installed.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> edit: hey, we passed 3,000,000 views recently!


Awesome


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> we are almost caught up to the corsair Hxxx thread, haha
> 
> I still think it is ridiculous they have more posts and views than this thread and this one was started first...
> 
> They are all that stands in the way of this thread being the most popular thread in the WC forum on this site (by view count)


But you still have a lot of catching up to over take us Scouts in posts, but you are gaining fast







And now a quick plug for our club








http://www.overclock.net/t/525009/official-the-coolermaster-storm-scout-club


----------



## Ceadderman

This calls for an epic pic for an epic event.













Water Cooling by MyWorks.

I think I actually messed my pants when I first saw this build.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

That's gotta be one insane build. All I have to say is:


----------



## wireeater

LOL, that takes over the top to a whole new level!


----------



## TheJesus

At first I was like "oh cool, he did some custom shrouds and its pretty sick" then I opened the link...



From scratch?!


----------



## wermad

I'm sure this guy can translate this to a RIVE and four 680s


----------



## XiDillon

wanted to throw this up sooner but had to wait for the NOS can...I think it looks a little better


----------



## Ceadderman

I really hope that NOS can is a Reservoir. If not someone got taken.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm sure this guy can translate this to a RIVE and four 680s


I aspire to be that guy that's for sure. Though I'll probably never come close.









~Ceadder


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This calls for an epic pic for an epic event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water Cooling by MyWorks.
> 
> I think I actually messed my pants when I first saw this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you for that, now I will never be happy with any build I make.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This calls for an epic pic for an epic event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water Cooling by MyWorks.
> 
> 
> I think I actually messed my pants when I first saw this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Gah.. umm.. yeah.. hmm. DAYUM!

Not sure what else to say.. freakin killer! My CVF wants..


----------



## glakr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> That case is HUGE!!! Drain ports are very nice to have, really beats pull the CPU block off and pulling a hose trying not to make a mess.


Yeah, I was a little surprised by the size when I got it. I wanted big, but wasn't expecting that big. I absolutely love it though. It was so easy to build everything up in there. It sure makes my full size ATX MB look tiny though.


----------



## glakr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rops84*
> 
> I want in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a lot of fun putting this together; so i hope U enjoy!


Nice looking build. I really think this is the first time I have seen the tubing coils look nice and perfect. I never even considered putting them on my build because they usually look kinda haphazard. Nice job.


----------



## DevilDriver

well, pulled the trigger and have some new stuff on the way. will have to take pic as I do my build this weekend.



2x 

1x


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm sure this guy can translate this to a RIVE and four 680s


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This calls for an epic pic for an epic event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water Cooling by MyWorks.
> 
> I think I actually messed my pants when I first saw this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for that, now I will never be happy with any build I make.
Click to expand...

YVW.









I dunno bout u, I live for stuff like this cause it drives my creativity to places I hadn't previously thought of.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> YVW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno bout u, I live for stuff like this cause it drives my creativity to places I hadn't previously thought of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


And your wallet to sizes smaller than it thought possible


----------



## coldcase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> YVW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno bout u, I live for stuff like this cause it drives my creativity to places I hadn't previously thought of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What a build. The number of hours must be incredible. I won't quit my day job as I don't think I'll be able to attain this level of complexity in a build in my lifetime


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coldcase*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> YVW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno bout u, I live for stuff like this cause it drives my creativity to places I hadn't previously thought of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a build. The number of hours must be incredible. I won't quit my day job as I don't think I'll be able to attain this level of complexity in a build in my lifetime
Click to expand...

Meh, if we had the shop that he probably has at his disposal, you'd probably be surprised what you can do. I saw how he did that RAM block an I think the toughest part of it was the ROG engraving. Worked with Plastics in High School. Not his level of workmanship but it was Crafts not a fully tooled shop either. I wouldn't go to the level of detail he did for his heatsinks but really don't have to if I were to start with an EK RAM block as my base and connected to Dominators which already have the sinks attached.









That doesn't mean that in no way could I do that level of epicness of course. Just sayin that it's surprising what you can accomplish when you have the technical aptitude to go with a pretty well stocked shop.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> YVW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno bout u, I live for stuff like this cause it drives my creativity to places I hadn't previously thought of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And your wallet to sizes smaller than it thought possible
Click to expand...

I dunno that I would go quite that far. I'm on an AMD system and he's on a Sandy with 4xNVidia armament ready to do battle with God himself.









I'm a broke ass, where he obviously is not. Have u seen how long it's taking me to complete my loop? I don't have to imagine my wallet shrinking. I just poke my accountant in his shrunken head







and he whips out the teeny tiny wallet and *POOF* lots of dust when he opens it to hand me money.









Now if you say imagine having the money to do what he does, it wouldn't take much imagination either. Cause my Iwantitnow gland is pretty good at keeping up.









~Ceadder


----------



## solara2xb

Here are some pics of my 700D build I did last year.. Not the greatest pics but its what I have right now.

Custom Painted 700D Case with 800D side Panel. TRI SLI GTX470 and i5 2500k OC.

Without the Flash


With Flash


Sorry its a little dusty


I am working on a new build as we speak, but I will post pics when I am done.
It will be a X79 build in my Case Lab TH10 Case.


----------



## Fuganater

This good enough to join?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm sure this guy can translate this to a RIVE and four 680s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This calls for an epic pic for an epic event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water Cooling by MyWorks.
> 
> I think I actually messed my pants when I first saw this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you for that, now I will never be happy with any build I make.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> YVW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno bout u, I live for stuff like this cause it drives my creativity to places I hadn't previously thought of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I really love builds like that, it inspires me to do better. 90% of what that was done in that case you could do your self for very little money.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> This good enough to join?


Only if you tell if that is Mayham's pastel with nothing added to it and if not what coolant is it? BTW you need one more black barb for your GPU, that one silver one sticks out like a sore thumb.


----------



## TwentyCent

Red Sexiness! Love the look of the coolant/tubing/fittings combo.









What tubing and fittings sizes?


----------



## Tipless

i just ordered some new goodies!!!:



also you can see my build log here


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## tipgo

Back again with the final project with LGA1366.


----------



## Angrybutcher

^ slow webhost is slow!

on another note, the little bit I can see looks good


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> ^ slow webhost is slow!
> on another note, the little bit I can see looks good


yeah it was taking FOREVER for me to


----------



## Tipless

me three... use photobucket or something besides that one lol


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> me three... use photobucket or something besides that one lol


I just use OCN itself, when just re-link using an HTML img tag with the original image URL.


----------



## Tipless

i do that as well but for my mod updates that i take from my phone, the app version of photobucket is way easier for uploading


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah pretty sure dude used OCN. Just had a lot of high volume pics that Huddler can't keep up with. I just looked at his links and not a single one of them was through an imaging site.









Sorry if it makes a mod mad but Huddler really sucks *ahem* gass.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

i guess so... i havent had any issues with it but then im using 8mp images so they arent as detailed as a 24mp image


----------



## Ceadderman

Currently in negotiations with Alex of Hellfire Toys. Hope to have some good news to report soon.









Okay Huddler better git its gass together cause this reappearing portion of the thread is starting to have a deleterious affect on my psyche. I may find a bell tower if this isn't fixed on the double quick...


















~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Currently in negotiations with Alex of Hellfire Toys. Hope to have some good news to report soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay Huddler better git its gass together cause this reappearing portion of the thread is starting to have a deleterious affect on my psyche. I may find a bell tower if this isn't fixed on the double quick...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


as long as its not in texas... or florida


----------



## arkadur

some of my old builds:

SGI project







Server of nod project: (triple loop system)











Nas-Li Project: (with watercooled Dell perc5I Raid controller)



the next step is to water cool my SR-2 system.
more to come soon


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah pretty sure dude used OCN. Just had a lot of high volume pics that Huddler can't keep up with. I just looked at his links and not a single one of them was through an imaging site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if it makes a mod mad but Huddler really sucks *ahem* gass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not sure who you're talking about, but these are not OCN links









http://image.ohozaa.com/view2/vYx3f5jxASTcByKs


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This calls for an epic pic for an epic event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water Cooling by MyWorks.
> I think I actually messed my pants when I first saw this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That is insanely clean my friend... Probably one of the best water cooled builds I've seen on these boards since I've started here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah pretty sure dude used OCN. Just had a lot of high volume pics that Huddler can't keep up with. I just looked at his links and not a single one of them was through an imaging site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if it makes a mod mad but Huddler really sucks *ahem* gass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure who you're talking about, but these are not OCN links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://image.ohozaa.com/view2/vYx3f5jxASTcByKs
Click to expand...

When I looked those weren't showing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkadur*
> 
> some of my old builds:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> SGI project
> 
> i'll post some of my builds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Server of nod project: (triple loop system)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nas-Li Project: (with watercooled Dell perc5I Raid controller)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the next step is to water cool my SR-2 system.
> more to come soon


Awesome stuff. Seeing the cable managment in the last one, I can see that it goes without saying...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Currently in negotiations with Alex of Hellfire Toys. Hope to have some good news to report soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay Huddler better git its gass together cause this reappearing portion of the thread is starting to have a deleterious affect on my psyche. I may find a bell tower if this isn't fixed on the double quick...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as long as its not in texas... or florida
Click to expand...

Haha I figgered out what was goin on an I blame fugernator for posting the same pic here and at the HAF thread. I was having the same conversation both here and there because I was too busy trying to get a good price for the rest of my loop and my brain was trying to do three or more things at once. Actually it was indeed more cause I was in PM here on OCN as well.
















Sorry Huddler chap. My bad.









@ProfeZZor_X... Wish I could take credit for that build but if you follow the link it'll take you to the Korean Gentleman's work being shown on the ROG site. Epic though ain't it?









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Here's some work I did on my Antec Eleven Hundred this past weekend. Once Monsoon comes out with their angled fittings, which I hope will be real soon, I can close the loop... I also took similar pictures with my 3D cell phone and they look absolutely amazing:


----------



## arkadur

here some more of the cable routing :













and today - it's my HTPC system


----------



## Greecean

i have seen quite a few people with windows on their psu's


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Here's some work I did on my Antec Eleven Hundred this past weekend. Once Monsoon comes out with their angled fittings, which I hope will be real soon, I can close the loop... I also took similar pictures with my 3D cell phone and they look absolutely amazing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Go to eBay and check out "Hellfire Toys", he has EK Nickel angles. Not sure how many you need, but I'm pretty sure they will blend quite well with those Monsoon fittings. He's got 90s' and 45s'.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkadur*
> 
> here some more of the cable routing :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and today - it's my HTPC system


Get that CPU under water. That little fan on it must be slightly on the loud side.







lol

:edit: Oops







nvm. That'll teach me not to look at ALL the pics.









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greecean*
> 
> i have seen quite a few people with windows on their psu's


I f***** up and bought that Antec PSU before doing any dilligent research. Back then I wanted multicolored lighting inside my case, and it was a cheap buy, but I've changed directions since then... Lesson learned. So I ended up getting a Rosewill Lightning 1300 to replace it. For now I'll give the Antec a try, but I have the Rosewill on standby. I'll most likely swap it out in a few months, and give it to my kids.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go to eBay and check out "Hellfire Toys", he has EK Nickel angles. Not sure how many you need, but I'm pretty sure they will blend quite well with those Monsoon fittings. He's got 90s' and 45s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I wanted to stick with a consistent look of the black chrome Monsoon fittings and not get too impatient by trying to hurry my build up. Not only that but I have a pet peeve of mixing and matching parts from other manufactures if I've already committed to one already. The designer of the Monsoon fittings is promising that his angles will be revolutionary, compared to what's currently out on the market, so I'm willing to patiently wait for them. According to him and Performance-PCs, they should hit shelves sometime in April... So one more month won't kill me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go to eBay and check out "Hellfire Toys", he has EK Nickel angles. Not sure how many you need, but I'm pretty sure they will blend quite well with those Monsoon fittings. He's got 90s' and 45s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to stick with a consistent look of the black chrome Monsoon fittings and not get too impatient by trying to hurry my build up. Not only that but I have a pet peeve of mixing and matching parts from other manufactures if I've already committed to one already. The designer of the Monsoon fittings is promising that his angles will be revolutionary, compared to what's currently out on the market, so I'm willing to patiently wait for them. According to him and Performance-PCs, they should hit shelves sometime in April... So one more month won't kill me.
Click to expand...

The lighting of your pics don't do them justice then, cause they looked like standard Nickel plate to me. But yeah I hear ya. I'd rather have gone with all EK fittings since my Comps are mostly EK. The ones that aren't going to be seen are BP, but they were donated to me so I'm not gonna complain one little bit. The Visible ones though are Mostly EK. Just remembered that my Pump outlet is BP.







hehe.

This gonna play hell on my OCD til I get it worked out.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Paint came out ok


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Paint came out ok


Wait...









Didn't you do that already? Coulda swore you did.









Oh by they by I dropped your name with Alex over at HellFire Toys. Hope you don't mind.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wait...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you do that already? Coulda swore you did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh by they by I dropped your name with Alex over at HellFire Toys. Hope you don't mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I retouched the first three and did the fourth one.

Meh, I used to buy from HellFire on ebay all the time. I stopped as they don't have good customer service any more. I just stick with the retail sites.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solara2xb*
> 
> Here are some pics of my 700D build I did last year.. Not the greatest pics but its what I have right now.
> 
> Custom Painted 700D Case with 800D side Panel. TRI SLI GTX470 and i5 2500k OC.
> 
> Without the Flash
> 
> 
> With Flash
> 
> 
> Sorry its a little dusty
> 
> 
> I am working on a new build as we speak, but I will post pics when I am done.
> It will be a X79 build in my Case Lab TH10 Case.


I love that paint job


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The lighting of your pics don't do them justice then, cause they looked like standard Nickel plate to me. But yeah I hear ya. I'd rather have gone with all EK fittings since my Comps are mostly EK. The ones that aren't going to be seen are BP, but they were donated to me so I'm not gonna complain one little bit. The Visible ones though are Mostly EK. Just remembered that my Pump outlet is BP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe.
> This gonna play hell on my OCD til I get it worked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


The angled fittings will be positioned in the motherboard and CPU blocks, so they'll be quite prominent compared to other places. I may just add more angles to go with a straight tubing look, but that all depends on how good those new fittings look.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wait...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you do that already? Coulda swore you did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh by they by I dropped your name with Alex over at HellFire Toys. Hope you don't mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I retouched the first three and did the fourth one.
> 
> Meh, I used to buy from HellFire on ebay all the time. I stopped as they don't have good customer service any more. I just stick with the retail sites.
Click to expand...

Well hopefully he won't hold that against me then. If I can get the items for the same price and free shipping I can deal with most anything.









Gonna have to settle for a nickel piece but it's in the most unobtrusive place in my 932 and comes with a Cap. Nobody is gonna see it. I'll know it's there but I'll let that bug the OCD as long as I can complete this blasted loop.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *solara2xb*
> 
> Here are some pics of my 700D build I did last year.. Not the greatest pics but its what I have right now.
> 
> Custom Painted 700D Case with 800D side Panel. TRI SLI GTX470 and i5 2500k OC.
> 
> Without the Flash
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With Flash
> 
> 
> Sorry its a little dusty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am working on a new build as we speak, but I will post pics when I am done.
> It will be a X79 build in my Case Lab TH10 Case.
> 
> 
> 
> I love that paint job
Click to expand...

That Red is just mouth watering. Looks like one of our Apples up here.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The lighting of your pics don't do them justice then, cause they looked like standard Nickel plate to me. But yeah I hear ya. I'd rather have gone with all EK fittings since my Comps are mostly EK. The ones that aren't going to be seen are BP, but they were donated to me so I'm not gonna complain one little bit. The Visible ones though are Mostly EK. Just remembered that my Pump outlet is BP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe.
> This gonna play hell on my OCD til I get it worked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The angled fittings will be positioned in the motherboard and CPU blocks, so they'll be quite prominent compared to other places. I may just add more angles to go with a straight tubing look, but that all depends on how good those new fittings look.
Click to expand...

Can't wait to see what they look like too. I really like the looks of their Comps. If I hadn't pulled the trigger on the EK Comps, I probably would have gotten those instead since they're about the same price give or take a few pence.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Red Sexiness! Love the look of the coolant/tubing/fittings combo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What tubing and fittings sizes?


Thanks man.

1/2" fittings with 1/2"ID 3/4" OD ClearFlex tubing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I really love builds like that, it inspires me to do better. 90% of what that was done in that case you could do your self for very little money.
> Only if you tell if that is Mayham's pastel with nothing added to it and if not what coolant is it? BTW you need one more black barb for your GPU, that one silver one sticks out like a sore thumb.


Sorry I forgot. Mayhem's Pastel Light Red with Mayhem's Red Dye added.

I know I need the fitting. Feel free to mail me a 90 degree rotary black fitting so I can save $15.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Red Sexiness! Love the look of the coolant/tubing/fittings combo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What tubing and fittings sizes?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man.
> 
> 1/2" fittings with 1/2"ID 3/4" OD ClearFlex tubing
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I really love builds like that, it inspires me to do better. 90% of what that was done in that case you could do your self for very little money.
> Only if you tell if that is Mayham's pastel with nothing added to it and if not what coolant is it? BTW you need one more black barb for your GPU, that one silver one sticks out like a sore thumb.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry I forgot. Mayhem's Pastel Light Red with Mayhem's Red Dye added.
> 
> I know I need the fitting. Feel free to mail me a 90 degree rotary black fitting so I can save $15.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, I think you are the first I've seen use it. Could you post a pic of your res? I really would love to see what it looks like. As for the fitting, no problem, just send me $20 and I'll mail it to you, lol. BTW you can get Enzotech's 90 degree rotary barb for $8.99

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14622/ex-tub-1061/Enzotech_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_Barb_Fitting_-_12_ID_Matte_Black_BRCPS-G14-12-90.html?tl=c407s1577b111


----------



## DrJns

What do you think of this? I've been running Ice Dragon with Mayhems blue dye for less than two weeks:


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> What do you think of this? I've been running Ice Dragon with Mayhems blue dye for less than two weeks:


Looks like A. the plating failed or B. the plating is not reacting well with either of those substances. You're gonna need to email EK and C.C. Ice Dragon/Mayhem.


----------



## wermad

Sooner or later, EK will require ferry piss as the only liquid that you can run to avoid nickel corrosion.


----------



## kazenagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> What do you think of this? I've been running Ice Dragon with Mayhems blue dye for less than two weeks:


I had something similar to that too and I was running some ek en nickel plated blocks, ice dragon and some mayhem dyes. Had no idea what that was, nothing I had at home at the time would work to get the remove that "layer" of substance. Block's not in my hands anymore but to day still had no idea what it was but I think it has something to do with the zinc oxide in the ice dragon.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> What do you think of this? I've been running Ice Dragon with Mayhems blue dye for less than two weeks:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Contact the Mayhems and the EK rep as they may have quicker responses than rma/customer-service.


----------



## DrJns

Thanks for the feedback. I'll contact EK/Mayhems and share the results. However, from EK's warning (i.e., don't use anything but distilled water and an anti-corrosive), I think I'm out of luck.


----------



## AMC

The sad part, all the plating is turning to crap. I love having my old EK Supreme HF block. It uses the old plating technique and (knock on wood) no problems. This sucks since EK makes very nice looking blocks. If distilled water and kill coil did not affect my old nickel block, it shouldn't for these as well.


----------



## solara2xb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I love that paint job


Thanks!!! Yea the paint came out really nice!
Its paint color from a dodge, Dark Cherry Red...

The pics don't really do it justice..
Once I have some more time I will try to get some better pics...

I will be posting a Work Log of my TH10 build once I get more of the case back from the paint shop..


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solara2xb*
> 
> Thanks!!! Yea the paint came out really nice!
> Its paint color from a dodge, Dark Cherry Red...
> The pics don't really do it justice..
> Once I have some more time I will try to get some better pics...
> I will be posting a Work Log of my TH10 build once I get more of the case back from the paint shop..


Great case love the colour scheme looks awesome as does the rest of the rig. Can't wait to see what you do with the Th10... I was so temped to paint my 5.25 bays gloss black on my gloss white th10 but never bothered







....


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I'll contact EK/Mayhems and share the results. However, from EK's warning (i.e., don't use anything but distilled water and an anti-corrosive), I think I'm out of luck.


The EK rep is great helped me out..... Don't know why anyone would buy nickel plated EK stuff there has been just so many nickel failures.... Good luck


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Looks like A. the plating failed or B. the plating is not reacting well with either of those substances. You're gonna need to email EK and C.C. Ice Dragon/Mayhem.


That's not plating fail,that's sediment from the coolant itself.
Take the top off and wipe it away,i honestly cant believe you are saying that's a plating fail BEFORE he has taken the top off


----------



## bomberjun




----------



## wermad

Some progress:


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Thanks for the info, I think you are the first I've seen use it. Could you post a pic of your res? I really would love to see what it looks like. As for the fitting, no problem, just send me $20 and I'll mail it to you, lol. BTW you can get Enzotech's 90 degree rotary barb for $8.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14622/ex-tub-1061/Enzotech_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_Barb_Fitting_-_12_ID_Matte_Black_BRCPS-G14-12-90.html?tl=c407s1577b111


Those fittings are uber ugly.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That's not plating fail,that's sediment from the coolant itself.
> Take the top off and wipe it away,i honestly cant believe you are saying that's a plating fail BEFORE he has taken the top off


I honestly can't believe I was the one singled out







Others said that it seemed like an issue with the plating. Its kind of what happens when the company is known for plating failures...

Completely possible its just sediment, but I wasn't going to tell him to take the top off until he contacted the aforementioned companies.


----------



## ShortAlieN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> What do you think of this? I've been running Ice Dragon with Mayhems blue dye for less than two weeks:


Looks like residue, have you tried cleaning it off? If they are going to void the warranty, you might as well have a look.

I have EK Nickle blocks and run Feser One(GASP NO!) YES! yes I do. No problems.


----------



## superericla

Ice Dragon is known to coat blocks due to some of the nanoparticles getting stuck in tiny grooves in blocks and tubing. It's likely just a coating of nanoparticles.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I honestly can't believe I was the one singled out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others said that it seemed like an issue with the plating. Its kind of what happens when the company is known for plating failures...
> Completely possible its just sediment, but I wasn't going to tell him to take the top off until he contacted the aforementioned companies.


This









Those of us in the know or who were affected, will cry wolf. Tbh, that's sentiment customers have after a company treats its customers like crap.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I'll contact EK/Mayhems and share the results. However, from EK's warning (i.e., don't use anything but distilled water and an anti-corrosive), I think I'm out of luck.
> 
> 
> 
> *The EK rep is great helped me out*..... Don't know why anyone would buy nickel plated EK stuff there has been just so many nickel failures.... Good luck
Click to expand...

Great. EK Rep helps you out and you throw the Company under the bus anyway. I don't expect anyone to pimp EK for the failures they had but it's not just EK that has had plating failures. They just handled it wrong. Except in your case their Rep by your own admission "helped you out". No offense but it kinda looks like you're playing both sides against the middle here.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Looks like A. the plating failed or B. the plating is not reacting well with either of those substances. You're gonna need to email EK and C.C. Ice Dragon/Mayhem.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not plating fail,that's sediment from the coolant itself.
> Take the top off and wipe it away,i honestly cant believe you are saying that's a plating fail BEFORE he has taken the top off
Click to expand...

EK has a bad rep right now. It's gonna take some time before that goes away. The community is not gonna let it go so easily especially the guys/girls this happened to. Regardless of whether or not EK was at fault. Eddy blamed the end user without enough information. Not that I don't agree with your assessment of what it could be.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That's not plating fail,that's sediment from the coolant itself.
> Take the top off and wipe it away,i honestly cant believe you are saying that's a plating fail BEFORE he has taken the top off
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly can't believe I was the one singled out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others said that it seemed like an issue with the plating. Its kind of what happens when the company is known for plating failures...
> 
> Completely possible its just sediment, but I wasn't going to tell him to take the top off until he contacted the aforementioned companies.
Click to expand...

TJ, I don't think your being singled out was intentional. Pretty sure it was by your reply to the issue that dude decided to jump in. That's how I generally do things anyway. Not that he is me or I him, just that it's probably the way your post got dragged front and center.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> What do you think of this? I've been running Ice Dragon with Mayhems blue dye for less than two weeks:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like residue, have you tried cleaning it off? If they are going to void the warranty, you might as well have a look.
> 
> I have EK Nickle blocks and run Feser One(GASP NO!) YES! yes I do. No problems.
Click to expand...

OMG that thing is so white. How in sam hell do you keep it that clean. Do you paint it white daily or weekly?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I honestly can't believe I was the one singled out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others said that it seemed like an issue with the plating. Its kind of what happens when the company is known for plating failures...
> Completely possible its just sediment, but I wasn't going to tell him to take the top off until he contacted the aforementioned companies.
> 
> 
> 
> This
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of us in the know or who were affected, will cry wolf. Tbh, that's sentiment customers have after a company treats its customers like crap.
Click to expand...

As above I concur. Still I don't believe it was intentional to single anyone out.









It sure does look like corosion but without removing the covers there is nothing to go on other than visual inspection. I'm seriously considering just straight distilled with no coil no additives no nothing at all. Just distilled. I do not want my system going tealeaves up because I was trying to avoid a problem. It's looking more an more like no matter what you do you flirt with corrosion and leeching. Since the PrimoChill is supposed to have an algae inhibitor built into it, I'm gonna run straight distilled and hope for the best.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Great. EK Rep helps you out and you throw the Company under the bus anyway. I don't expect anyone to pimp EK for the failures they had but it's not just EK that has had plating failures. They just handled it wrong. Except in your case their Rep by your own admission "helped you out". No offense but it kinda looks like you're playing both sides against the middle here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK has a bad rep right now. It's gonna take some time before that goes away. The community is not gonna let it go so easily especially the guys/girls this happened to. Regardless of whether or not EK was at fault. Eddy blamed the end user without enough information. Not that I don't agree with your assessment of what it could be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TJ, I don't think your being singled out was intentional. Pretty sure it was by your reply to the issue that dude decided to jump in. That's how I generally do things anyway. Not that he is me or I him, just that it's probably the way your post got dragged front and center.
> OMG that thing is so white. How in sam hell do you keep it that clean. Do you paint it white daily or weekly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As above I concur. Still I don't believe it was intentional to single anyone out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sure does look like corosion but without removing the covers there is nothing to go on other than visual inspection. I'm seriously considering just straight distilled with no coil no additives no nothing at all. Just distilled. I do not want my system going tealeaves up because I was trying to avoid a problem. It's looking more an more like no matter what you do you flirt with corrosion and leeching. Since the PrimoChill is supposed to have an algae inhibitor built into it, I'm gonna run straight distilled and hope for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I just wanted to be sassy back (unless he really was, then let's fight, lol).

EK says distilled and kill coil for nickel. That's it. You could run distilled only, but be prepared to clean the loop every few months from growing stuff :/

That whole plating debacle, I'm not going to weigh in on as I only learned of it a few months back and wasn't around to watch it go down. Not saying they were in the right or wrong.


----------



## ShortAlieN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> OMG that thing is so white. How in sam hell do you keep it that clean. Do you paint it white daily or weekly?


Gets a shot of air every couple of weeks, then stripped down every couple of months. I cant quit playing with it









Actually waiting on some new stuff to arrive this week.


----------



## mybadomen

Thank god i have been running all Nickel EK blocks with no issues yet.but always distilled till now with my new build i will be running Mayhem's .I was told by Mayhem that with his Pastels to run nothing else in it.no biocide so hoping all goes well as all my tubing will be clear.Can only wait and see though.I thought the Nickle issue was over though.I never ran into it yet.And hope i don't OMG . I love the EK stuff and love it in Nickel.

Only time will tell i guess.

Also Great job Wermad on the new Build and damn that White build is sweet to.

Also anyone know of a mounting bracket that holds 2 10" EK-Multioption X2 Advanced reservoirs or do i have to make my own? i seen the side by side mount i believe Danger Den Makes but i am looking to mount it to the rear MB tray one in front of the other.Not side by side. Any idea's?

Take care.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Those of us in the know* or who were affected, will cry wolf. Tbh, that's sentiment customers have after a company treats its customers like crap.


Dont get funny mate,i have been a part of RRT for a long time now,we were doing the testing when others sat on their ass.
EK do have a hard task of clawing back some customer confidence but that is no excuse to panel them for something which,to my mind,is not their fault.

Im not singling anyone out in particular,just this 'bash EK' mentality which is not constructive.

I use EK...just not nickel plated EK..Copper is love.


----------



## jellis142

3930k in the talks, loop here and tested for leaks.

I can't believe I haven't gotten into water sooner... been running strictly air since the Core 2 was the best thing since sliced bread.

Just running the setup, bare, on the table, makes me tingle inside. Those pictures will be uploaded hard once I grab a PSU, then I can finally be part of my favorite club to sight see.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I honestly can't believe I was the one singled out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others said that it seemed like an issue with the plating. Its kind of what happens when the company is known for plating failures...
> Completely possible its just sediment, but I wasn't going to tell him to take the top off until he contacted the aforementioned companies.


You were singled out because your post blaming the plating is directly below the OP, you were the first to comment on it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You were singled out because your post blaming the plating is directly below the OP, you were the first to comment on it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont get funny mate,i have been a part of RRT for a long time now,we were doing the testing when others sat on their ass.
> EK do have a hard task of clawing back some customer confidence but that is no excuse to panel them for something which,to my mind,is not their fault.
> Im not singling anyone out in particular,just this 'bash EK' mentality which is not constructive.
> I use EK...just not nickel plated EK..Copper is love.


Someone from RRT crew I would think they should be still pissed at what ek did. Sounds like someone has a tie to EK. I've seen quite a few members stick up for ek. Not as many like xs.org. RRT was a very voiced community. I followed the situation closely. I don't have my own lab equipment nor do I have money to do a major study, so I sat on my *ass* appreciating what others were doing to find answers since ek was not giving any. The way you are defending them sounds like you have some tie or sponsorship from them. When a product fails, many people don't forget and the stigma will continue with the company. Those who have been scared will continue to voice their displeasure. I don't care whether you choose copper or nickel, if a product fails, well I will not ignore it in order to help my community. One thing i learned from following RRT was that the community stuck together and took on a company. Even if many us could only provide info based on our experience. Constructive posts can help a member buy a product or avoid them. EK is still having issues even with their EN electroless plating.

You starting calling out people because they don't like a product, which makes you sound like a true fanboy that's been boug....sponsored by EK. See, how easy it is to call out some one based on their negative comment? That's how I feel based on your actions. Just like feel cheated by EK by their actions. People have a right to say a product sucks if they believe it sucks and can show some shred of evidence. How would you feel if hundreds of dollars/pounds worth of equipment failed? Yeah. I have right to say EK products are still not good. I'm not going on defending Danger Den or Heatkiller for any negative comment people say about. But I will say how good their products are since they have worked great for me. I have never used Koolance, yet I have seen reports to them failing. So, I'll also warn folks about them too.

I'm sure you'll fire back with some blah, blah, blah, EK this and that, don't say bad things about them, they rule. Whatever dude. Someone who was part of the storm totally forgot and forgave a company who didn't care about its customers.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Someone from RRT crew I would think they should be still pissed at what ek did. Sounds like someone has a tie to EK. I've seen quite a few members stick up for ek. Not as many like xs.org. RRT was a very voiced community. I followed the situation closely. I don't have my own lab equipment nor do I have money to do a major study, so I sat on my *ass* appreciating what others were doing to find answers since ek was not giving any. The way you are defending them sounds like you have some tie or sponsorship from them. When a product fails, many people don't forget and the stigma will continue with the company. Those who have been scared will continue to voice their displeasure. I don't care whether you choose copper or nickel, if a product fails, well I will not ignore it in order to help my community. One thing i learned from following RRT was that the community stuck together and took on a company. Even if many us could only provide info based on our experience. Constructive posts can help a member buy a product or avoid them. EK is still having issues even with their EN electroless plating.
> *You starting calling out people because they don't like a product,* which makes you sound like a true fanboy that's been boug....sponsored by EK. See, how easy it is to call out some one based on their negative comment? That's how I feel based on your actions. Just like feel cheated by EK by their actions. People have a right to say a product sucks if they believe it sucks and can show some shred of evidence. How would you feel if hundreds of dollars/pounds worth of equipment failed? Yeah. I have right to say EK products are still not good. I'm not going on defending Danger Den or Heatkiller for any negative comment people say about. But I will say how good their products since they have worked great for me. I never used Koolance, yet I have seen reports to them failing. So also warn folks about them too.
> I'm sure you'll fire back with some blah, blah, blah, EK this and that, don't say bad things about them, they rule. Whatever dude. Someone who was part of the storm totally forgot and forgave a company who didn't care about its customers.


Incorrect,i called him because of his knee jerk reaction claiming it was failed plating rather than sedimentation of the coolant MIXED with a dye.
I am not defending EK's past behaviour, im defending RATIONAL diagnosis....which is what the OP wanted,nothing to do with product choice at all

As for sponsorship, are you some kind of moron? I run an EK block and 2 EK uni GPU blocks...hardly sponsorship (btw,i can provide reciepts of purchase)...even more ridiculous when i have no EK products in my unfinished SR 2 build,Watercool and MIPS all the way.

Now get off your high horse and drink your milk.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now get off your high horse and drink your milk.


This is advise you should take mate.

I'll leave it there since the mods or Kev will take care of our posts as they are not adding to any productivity in this thread.


----------



## ROG1

mmm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Incorrect,i called him because of his knee jerk reaction claiming it was failed plating rather than sedimentation of the coolant MIXED with a dye.
> I am not defending EK's past behaviour, im defending RATIONAL diagnosis....which is what the OP wanted,nothing to do with product choice at all
> As for sponsorship, are you some kind of moron? I run an EK block and 2 EK uni GPU blocks...hardly sponsorship (btw,i can provide reciepts of purchase)...even more ridiculous when i have no EK products in my unfinished SR 2 build,Watercool and MIPS all the way.
> Now get off your high horse and drink your milk.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is advise you should take mate.
> I'll leave it there since the mods or Kev will take care of our posts as they are not adding to any productivity in this thread.


Got nothing to say now? Perhaps read the post before going on a witchhunt in future.....

The original quote,which apparently you didnt read...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That's not plating fail,that's sediment from the coolant itself.
> Take the top off and wipe it away,i honestly cant believe you are saying that's a plating fail BEFORE he has taken the top off


----------



## KaRLiToS

Wermad, why are you mad at EK product, they already learned their lessons. Leave the past behind. Something similar won't happen again, they put a lot of money in studies to make better quality products. I'm pretty sure they regret what happen.

I used to have many EK blocks with EK issue and I didnt have any problem with my loop or my pumps. Temperature were the same and I didnt have any trouble selling my blocks at the same price. I now have 4 EK EN Nickel blocks and I'm pretty happy with them. I always had a lot of good experience with EK customer service before. I was polite and was well served to be honest.

People with happy service usually don't share their experience. But complainers complain a lot and bash. Keep that in mind Werm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay guys, the EK disaster has been hashed rehashed and dashed on the rocks over and over so many times. Let's just agree that it wasn't handled properly from the beginning and are gonna have a steep hill to climb to get back to some semblance of what they were before the great corrosion disaster of 2010-2011. The lost ground to their competitors as a result. I'm sure we can all agree why this happened. Right?

So let's shake part as comrades and hope that every company from then on can avoid further wrecking our hobby. I think we can agree that corrosion could set the water cooling hobby back to it's roots if it continues to happen. I myself remember that I wasn't too keen on putting water near a power source when water cooling was considered a fad. That fad made EK and a few other companies very popular sources of product and quite a bit of money.

Now imagine what happens when every manufacturer is affected by the same corrosion bug.









Let's chill and keep it peacable up in here. We just hit 3million views after all. An no people they aren't all by yours truly.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Wermad, why are you mad at EK product, they already learned their lessons. Leave the past behind. Something similar won't happen again, they put a lot of money in studies to make better quality products. I'm pretty sure they regret what happen.
> I used to have many EK blocks with EK issue and I didnt have any problem with my loop or my pumps. Temperature were the same and I didnt have any trouble selling my blocks at the same price. I now have 4 EK EN Nickel blocks and I'm pretty happy with them. I always had a lot of good experience with EK customer service before. I was polite and was well served to be honest.
> People with happy service usually don't share their experience. But complainers complain a lot and bash. Keep that in mind Werm.


They're still having issues though its not as big as before. I do have a right to be upset at them as they refused to help me with a cpu block, a mb block, a ram block, and three gpu blocks. I just don't like when people defend them and want to make them look like saints. Wasn't there a gtx 580/570 "EN" block in the marketplace with bad nickel selling for cheap recently? Yeah, I know that member's feeling when I sold off all my eK blocks at a huge loss because of this.

I will admit that they eventually did try amend things but they really could have done a better way. My first rma went smoothly and they took care of everything, but as soon as the issue got out of control, they panicked and refused to help me any further. It wasn't until several months later that they had decided to help ppl. By then, I had already cut my losses by selling them. Man, I was a true EK fan ever since I got my first gpu block a 4870x2 block. I fell in love with water cooling and ek was my first suitor. I do like some of their products but the nickel blocks are still iffy in my book. So I warn, I don't urge ppl not to buy them but what could still happen since it happened to me.

If you want to see what happened to my blocks:

http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They're still having issues though its not as big as before. *I do have a right to be upset at them* as they refused to help me with a cpu block, a mb block, a ram block, and three gpu blocks. I just don't like when people defend them and want to make them look like saints. Wasn't there a gtx 580/570 "EN" block in the marketplace with bad nickel selling for cheap recently? Yeah, I know that member's feeling when I sold off all my eK blocks at a huge loss because of this.
> I will admit that they eventually did try amend things but they really could have done a better way. My first rma went smoothly and they took care of everything, but as soon as the issue got out of control, they panicked and refused to help me any further. It wasn't until several months later that they had decided to help ppl. By then, I had already cut my losses by selling them. Man, I was a true EK fan ever since I got my first gpu block a 4870x2 block. I fell in love with water cooling and ek was my first suitor. I do like some of their products *but the nickel blocks are still iffy in my book*. So I warn, I don't urge ppl not to buy them but what could still happen since it happened to me.
> If you want to see what happened to my blocks:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info


That doesnt excuse your rant at me tho,i dont care how pissed at EK you are.

I agree with point 2 as i have already stated.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That doesnt excuse your rant at me tho,i dont care how pissed at EK you are.


Then what excuse do you have for your rant? What justifies you calling out people on their opinions whence you are spewing yours? Someone asked me a question, I'm happy to reply. I don't give a rats ar$e what you think of my opinions.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Then what excuse do you have for your rant? What justifies you calling out people on their opinions whence you are spewing yours? Someone asked me a question, I'm happy to reply. I don't give a rats ar$e what you think of my opinions.


You go off on some 'sponsored by EK' tin hat BS and made yourself out to be a bit of a tool,i will leave you in your foolishness


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You go off on some 'sponsored by EK' tin hat BS and made yourself out to be a bit of a tool,i will leave you in your foolishness


Your passion could have been bought off. It has happened and I have dealt with people like you in my EK thread and xs.org before. Why not offer a productive rebuttal instead of attacking members? Why not say, lets take a look at and not rant about "Leave EK alone". Now, who seems foolish? I'll leave at is. You can continue to cry all you want. I won't continue to play your games to saturate the thread with useless junk.

Sorry Kev









edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay guys, the EK disaster has been hashed rehashed and dashed on the rocks over and over so many times. Let's just agree that it wasn't handled properly from the beginning and are gonna have a steep hill to climb to get back to some semblance of what they were before the great corrosion disaster of 2010-2011. The lost ground to their competitors as a result. I'm sure we can all agree why this happened. Right?
> So let's shake part as comrades and hope that every company from then on can avoid further wrecking our hobby. I think we can agree that corrosion could set the water cooling hobby back to it's roots if it continues to happen. I myself remember that I wasn't too keen on putting water near a power source when water cooling was considered a fad. That fad made EK and a few other companies very popular sources of product and quite a bit of money.
> Now imagine what happens when every manufacturer is affected by the same corrosion bug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's chill and keep it peacable up in here. We just hit 3million views after all. An no people they aren't all by yours truly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Sorry Ceadder, I missed your post. I'll call a truce as we are all members


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Great. EK Rep helps you out and you throw the Company under the bus anyway. I don't expect anyone to pimp EK for the failures they had but it's not just EK that has had plating failures. They just handled it wrong. Except in your case their Rep by your own admission "helped you out". No offense but it kinda looks like you're playing both sides against the middle here.


Wow did you read my post all i said was "why would you buy a product with a well establish history of failing"....agreed they look great and I'm not attacking everyone who buys nickel plated products from ek I'm just question the logic....
I would happily recommend any copper EK blocks but would i recommend a nickel block not at this point of time (of quite a few companies)..... not until i see less nickel failures threads on OCN.... and btw my issue was not with EK nickel plating it was an issue with the link/bridge that turned out to be my fault, but there rep was very helpful so i would recommend contacting him.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> it was an issue with the link/bridge that turned out to be my fault, but there rep was very helpful so i would recommend contacting him.


They are very tricky to use. I ended up using the wrong screws when I first installed mine and had a massive leak. I like the concept and its well thought out but its a bit complex which leaves a lot of room for errors. I tried the HeatKiller bridge and its is very simple and inexpensive but I would say I like the looks of the EK bridge. I do wish they would switch to a port system like HK to simplify and make their bridges more cost effective. I also like Swiftech's version and Aquacomputer's (though I have not tried them personally







).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Your passion could have been bought off. It has happened and I have dealt with people like you in my EK thread and xs.org before. Why not offer a productive rebuttal instead of attacking members? Why not say, lets take a look at and not rant about "Leave EK alone". Now, who seems foolish? I'll leave at is. You can continue to cry all you want. I won't continue to play your games to saturate the thread with useless junk.
> Sorry Kev
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Sorry Ceadder, I missed your post. I'll call a truce as we are all members


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That's not plating fail,that's sediment from the coolant itself.
> Take the top off and wipe it away,i honestly cant believe you are saying that's a plating fail BEFORE he has taken the top off


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont get funny mate,i have been a part of RRT for a long time now,we were doing the testing when others sat on their ass.
> EK do have a hard task of clawing back some customer confidence but that is no excuse to panel them for something which,to my mind,is not their fault.
> Im not singling anyone out in particular,just this 'bash EK' mentality which is not constructive.
> I use EK...just not nickel plated EK..Copper is love.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Incorrect,i called him because of his knee jerk reaction claiming it was failed plating rather than sedimentation of the coolant MIXED with a dye.
> I am not defending EK's past behaviour, im defending RATIONAL diagnosis....which is what the OP wanted,nothing to do with product choice at all
> As for sponsorship, are you some kind of moron? I run an EK block and 2 EK uni GPU blocks...hardly sponsorship (btw,i can provide reciepts of purchase)...even more ridiculous when i have no EK products in my unfinished SR 2 build,Watercool and MIPS all the way.
> Now get off your high horse and drink your milk.


My passion is for the TRUTH.
Please take the time to read posts without emotional inflection in future.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They are very tricky to use. I ended up using the wrong screws when I first installed mine and had a massive leak. I like the concept and its well thought out but its a bit complex which leaves a lot of room for errors. I tried the HeatKiller bridge and its is very simple and inexpensive but I would say I like the looks of the EK bridge..........


Ya I misinterpreted the whole do not over tighten the screws ended up leaking like a sieve lol ( I swear they were tight* lol )
Quote:


> I do wish they would switch to a port system like HK to simplify and make their bridges more cost effective. I also like Swiftech's version and Aquacomputer's (though I have not tried them personally smile.gif ).


lol dangers view you have their last time I said i thought Swiftech's version and Aquacomputer's versions were better (not that i have ever tried them also) the amount of stop hating on ek !&%# i got was just amazing


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> Ya I misinterpreted the whole do not over tighten the screws ended up leaking like a sieve lol ( I swear they were tight* lol )
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I do wish they would switch to a port system like HK to simplify and make their bridges more cost effective. I also like Swiftech's version and Aquacomputer's (though I have not tried them personally smile.gif ).
> 
> 
> 
> lol dangers view you have their last time I said i thought Swiftech's version and Aquacomputer's versions were better (not that i have ever tried them also) the amount of stop hating on ek !&%# i got was just amazing
Click to expand...

There's a bunch of screws that you have to keep track off. But, after installing it several times, it became second nature. I was shocked when I tried the HK system due to its simplicity:


----------



## 4514kaiser

wish me luck with my 3rd leak test!









Nice rige btw!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> wish me luck with my 3rd leak test!










good luck mate, just take your time and triple check things to be on the safe side


----------



## 4514kaiser

my system was leak tested for like 140 hours I no leaks i move it into my room because I finally had enough time to install windows ect and it gets a leak, It turns out that it started leaking from the pump centre axis thing (ddc-1)..... anyway should be fine now i hope


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> ipone 1 037.JPG 1551k .JPG file
> 
> 
> ipone 1 045.JPG 2343k .JPG file
> 
> 
> ipone 1 046.JPG 2633k .JPG file
> 
> 
> ipone 1 048.JPG 2733k .JPG file
> 
> 
> ipone 1 054.JPG 2702k .JPG file
> 
> 
> ipone 1 060.JPG 1874k .JPG file
> 
> hai guy this is my new project
> waitting to wet my gtx680 only


Please upload your pictures so we dont have to download those, its anonying when you need to download the pictures to view them


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Please upload your pictures so we dont have to download those, its anonying when you need to download the pictures to view them


i wouldnt download any pics that say ipone lol


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Please upload your pictures so we dont have to download those, its anonying when you need to download the pictures to view them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wouldnt download any pics that say ipone lol
Click to expand...

iPhone takes better pictures then my Windows Phone, yet you're okay with all my build log pictures which are taking from my Windows Phone


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That's not plating fail,that's sediment from the coolant itself.
> Take the top off and wipe it away,i honestly cant believe you are saying that's a plating fail BEFORE he has taken the top off


That would mean the sediment was pulled up instead of down. The nickle is on the top side with how my card was mounted.

EDIT: And sorry for starting a fight. I will be back in my state on Monday and will try to clean the block then. I'll let everyone know. However, there are black marks in the picture that look like the nickle failings of other blocks I've seen pictures of.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Looks like A. the plating failed or B. the plating is not reacting well with either of those substances. You're gonna need to email EK and C.C. Ice Dragon/Mayhem.


He is going to have to open the block to clean it out. It isn't corrosion.


----------



## (sic)

You said you diluted your IDC quite a bit. I remember reading a warning stating not to dilute the solution as it may cause separation of the particles.

Perhaps it has something to do with this?


----------



## carrotman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> You said you diluted your IDC quite a bit. I remember reading a warning stating not to dilute the solution as it may cause separation of the particles.
> Perhaps it has something to do with this?


THIS THIS THIS THIS. That is definitely not corrosion, it is really annoying to see people blame EK's plating every time they see dirt on a nickel block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> That would mean the sediment was pulled up instead of down. The nickle is on the top side with how my card was mounted.
> EDIT: And sorry for starting a fight. I will be back in my state on Monday and will try to clean the block then. I'll let everyone know. However, there are black marks in the picture that look like the nickle failings of other blocks I've seen pictures of.


What was the state of the waterchannel before you mounted it? EK have a habit of leaving milling marks everywhere,these small imperfections catch the suspended material.
Give it a good clean and get some nice clear pics of what lies beneath,only then will you know whats going on.

You didnt cause anything,some people are just too rabid for reasonable discussion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> He is going to have to open the block to clean it out. It isn't corrosion.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> You said you diluted your IDC quite a bit. I remember reading a warning stating not to dilute the solution as it may cause separation of the particles.
> Perhaps it has something to do with this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> THIS THIS THIS THIS. That is definitely not corrosion, it is really annoying to see people blame EK's plating every time they see dirt on a nickel block.


Wermad will now commence his tirade about you 'fanboys' 'bought by EK'....


----------



## carrotman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Looks like residue, have you tried cleaning it off? If they are going to void the warranty, you might as well have a look.
> I have EK Nickle blocks and run Feser One(GASP NO!) YES! yes I do. No problems.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Images!


ShortAlieN, do you have a build log or anything for that? It looks great, I would like to see more.


----------



## DrJns

Had time before my flight. Here are the results. It's definitely a reaction with the nickel (every EK product I've had is great, so I'm not trying to find an opportunity to bash):


----------



## wermad

Do you see copper? Its a bit hard to tell since the light from the room is reflecting on the block


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> iPhone takes better pictures then my Windows Phone, yet you're okay with all my build log pictures which are taking from my Windows Phone


it doesnt say iphone, it says ipone. 2 completely different things lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> You said you diluted your IDC quite a bit. I remember reading a warning stating not to dilute the solution as it may cause separation of the particles.
> Perhaps it has something to do with this?


i actually talked to mayhems themselves abbout this very issue and they said there would be no issues as long as you are diluting it with distilled water only! and to not add any other additives.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Had time before my flight. Here are the results. It's definitely a reaction with the nickel (every EK product I've had is great, so I'm not trying to find an opportunity to bash):


it looks fine. that looks like tarnish. use some ketchup and a papertowel and gently rub the ketchup in then follow with a vinegar rinse. that should solve it.

also try and put the block on a flat surface and take some more pics! there is a focusing issue with those. i little blurry but the flat surface will help get rid of that


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do you see copper? Its a bit hard to tell since the light from the room is reflecting on the block


It's hard to tell. The two worst spots (first picture) look like they have a dark gold color in the center.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> it looks fine. that looks like tarnish. use some ketchup and a papertowel and gently rub the ketchup in then follow with a vinegar rinse. that should solve it.


This happened in less than two weeks...what would it have looked like if I left it for six months? Hard to say it's not a concern.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> THIS THIS THIS THIS. That is definitely not corrosion, it is really annoying to see people blame EK's plating every time they see dirt on a nickel block.


I have no idea if this is corrosion or not but imo it's a far assumption..... If i saw that all over my vga blocks corrosion would be the first thing that would come to mind and I have to say it does look like corrosion to me in his second group of pic


----------



## TheJesus

I leave for a few hours and everything goes to hell, lol.

Anyways, I simply gave my opinion. I don't take sides on the plating issue, I wasn't there. I'm partially sponsored by EK, so I think I would be the most likely to be the fanboy. I'm not, I simply just go off the experience I have.

I'm more than happy to have a perfectly normal discussion, but that's because I don't have experience with blocks failing which tends to leave a sour taste in anyone's mouth (no offense Wermad, I warn people about Rasa kits







). Its not really something that needs discussion anyways, its been discussed so much.

I have 3 nickel blocks on the way, we'll see what happens


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> This happened in less than two weeks...what would it have looked like if I left it for six months? Hard to say it's not a concern.


i can understand your concern. have you ever seen how fast a coin/ piece of silver tarnishes with the oils on your hand? a matter of days is all.

were you using a different coolant before the mayhems? if so there could be some residual that caused a reaction.

either way until we find out if its tarnish, i wont be ordering any mayhems for my new nickel blocks im getting

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> I have no idea if this is corrosion or not but imo it's a far assumption..... If i saw that all over my vga blocks corrosion would be the first thing that would come to mind and I have to say it does look like corrosion to me in his second group of pic


corrsion looks way different than tarnish.

signs of corrosion are pitting and flaking

signs of tarnish are discoloration

seeing as we cant tell from those pics if there is any pitting or flaking, lets ask lol

is there any pitting or flaking? or is it just a discoloration?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> is there any pitting or flaking? or is it just a discoloration?


I've only had IDC, Mayhems dyes, and distilled water in this loop.

There's one part that I think is flaking but can't quite tell (weird how light and color play tricks on you). I cleaned the block with ketchup (so weird) and a lot of it came off (not the part that looks like flaking). I'll keep working on it until I leave. Vinegar rinse now.


----------



## Tipless

it sounds like really bad tarnishing. i dont wanna jinx you but i have my fingers crossed for you


----------



## DrJns

Scrubbed and scrubbed, and I can't get it all off. The part that looked like flaking isn't, but it staying black. I'll work on it again after I land on Monday. I'm an now Cooper4Life, though.

EDIT: I'm also going to pull apart my copper CPU block to make sure it's still pretty as new. Will post pictures next week.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That dark residue is common,you get it on copper blocks also.
Organic material and cuprite are the likely causes.


----------



## lowfat

DrJns, try using a metal polish/cleaner. It was suggested by the EK rep a few months back on XS. I had to use it on my HD7970 block because mine looked similar after draining my loop. After cleaning it w/ the polish it looked brand new again.


----------



## Tipless

Glad to hear its not flaking or corrosion. Coughtoldyasocough.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That dark residue is common,you get it on copper blocks also.
> Organic material and cuprite are the likely causes.


I did not add PT Nuke or anything similar. How do I make this not happen again?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> DrJns, try using a metal polish/cleaner. It was suggested by the EK rep a few months back on XS. I had to use it on my HD7970 block because mine looked similar after draining my loop. After cleaning it w/ the polish it looked brand new again.


I have the same block. I'll try that when I get back. Thanks!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I did not add PT Nuke or anything similar. How do I make this not happen again?
> I have the same block. I'll try that when I get back. Thanks!


You dont need to ad PH Nuke,the water channels will have some exposed copper in it..look around the finned section,especially around the edges


----------



## Tipless

Has anyone used CLR on nickel before?


----------



## wermad

This was after one month. Same black stains around the exposed copper area. And yes, all my blocks were nickel and no copper fittings or other parts. And yes, this is pre "EN". Don't want to alarm you but this is how it all started. Of all the nickel plated barbs and compression fittings I had, non ever had these black stains. Luckily, non were from EK.



Ketchup has vinegar in it and helps remove tarnishes. A bit gooey and messy but it works on copper. Not sure on nickel though. I do recall asking support how to clean it, they told me just to use distilled and a cloth.


----------



## wireeater

Well this thread has gone down the tubes... More pictures of awesome W/C machines, less bickering to be the "right" one..


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wireeater*
> 
> Well this thread has gone down the tubes... More pictures of awesome W/C machines, less bickering to be the "right" one..


Sorry. If I can get everyone's help HERE I will really appreciate it.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Scrubbed and scrubbed, and I can't get it all off. The part that looked like flaking isn't, but it staying black. I'll work on it again after I land on Monday. I'm an now Cooper4Life, though.
> EDIT: I'm also going to pull apart my copper CPU block to make sure it's still pretty as new. Will post pictures next week.


By no means am I claiming to be any kind of water cooling expert, or trying to be a wise-ass, but why would it matter if the nickel plating is discolored if you're using dyes and there's a steady flow of water/coolant inside to cover those dark blemishes up?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> By no means am I claiming to be any kind of water cooling expert, or trying to be a wise-ass, but why would it matter if the nickel plating is discolored if you're using dyes and there's a steady flow of water/coolant inside to cover those dark blemishes up?


First, I wanted to make sure it was not corrosion. Second, I'm afraid the build-up will cause problems down the road with clogging or sending chunks of gunk through my loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> First, I wanted to make sure it was not corrosion. Second, I'm afraid the build-up will cause problems down the road with clogging or sending chunks of gunk through my loop.


http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=11373


Same problem...on a copper HK3.

Safely say,not corrosion.


----------



## douglatins

Never buying nickel now. damn it. this sucks


----------



## carrotman

It begins...

(gee I wonder which blocks I should get...)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> 
> It begins...
> (gee I wonder which blocks I should get...)










what size btw?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> 
> It begins...
> (gee I wonder which blocks I should get...)










*Patiently awaits for the release of the angled Monsoon fittings*


----------



## carrotman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what size btw?


3/8" ID 5/8" OD


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> 3/8" ID 5/8" OD


Nice







I wish Phobya made that size as 3/18x1/2 has a thinner wall







.

Finally wrestled in my cpu block on the lg2011 socket. What a pita to get the right screws for this platform and block


----------



## KaRLiToS

Wow Wermad, your GPU blocks are awsome, you did a great job on the painting. Are the temps good with 4xGTX 480 Sli







?


----------



## carrotman

Heh, you guys were right, you do get blisters from tightening compression fittings. Is there any special trick to it? I'm afraid of tightening the barb too much into the acrylic pieces when I try to tighten the collar.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Wow Wermad, your GPU blocks are awsome, you did a great job on the painting. Are the temps good with 4xGTX 480 Sli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Thanks. I haven't fired it up yet. I'll find out soon








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> Heh, you guys were right, you do get blisters from tightening compression fittings. Is there any special trick to it? I'm afraid of tightening the barb too much into the acrylic pieces when I try to tighten the collar.


They are tight and sometimes a pita to tighten. Do as best as possible by hand. as long as you grab some threads your fine. The fitting may fool you so tug on it a bit and if the top slides back, it didn't grab the threads. Avoid using tools as they can damage stuff and the finish of your fittings. Monsoon fittings are designed to be used with a special wrench available from them to tighten them.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> Heh, you guys were right, you do get blisters from tightening compression fittings. Is there any special trick to it? I'm afraid of tightening the barb too much into the acrylic pieces when I try to tighten the collar.


When you tighten the collar, hold the bottom of the compression fitting ( the barb). Put adhesive gloves if you want to tighten without hurting your fingers. Thats the only way I can think of. But I prefer with my bare hands and having blisters.


----------



## wermad

I tighten the bottom as hard as possible to avoid unscrewing it when removing the top (and then having dribbles of liquid







).


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I guess I'm not going with a New Radiator. Dude wants too much(still reasonable though) and my wallet doesn't have enough flex to go higher so I'm gonna be going used I guess. I don't mind though. I'll probably still get the two connections I need to complete my loop. Should still see a radiator in early April.









Get a bag of medium size rubberbands and use one or two on the fitting for grip. Works awesome for finger tightening fittings as well as loosening stubborn to remove collars.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally wrestled in my cpu block on the lg2011 socket. What a pita to get the right screws for this platform and block


The fingerprints!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> The fingerprints!


Yeah, yeah, everyone complains about that. I ain't finished yet







. I'll wipe everything down when she's finished. No point in doing it now since I'm still working on it. I'm waiting on a booster to complete the build but the loop is pretty much done (minus the finger print removal task). I need some gloves


----------



## TheJesus

Is there any reason to not run nickel and copper blocks together aside from the possible plating issue? (assume the plating is perfect)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Is there any reason to not run nickel and copper blocks together aside from the possible plating issue? (assume the plating is perfect)


No harm, as well as using brass. Aluminum may cause issues though (unless used in an all aluminum loop). Whether the nickel degrades or not is still a hotly debated issue (especially certain companies







).


----------



## kazenagi

Rads are made of copper so haven't we all been running nickel and copper together for years well for those that run nickel blocks.. don't really see that as an issue with anything even with imperfect plating.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No harm, as well as using brass. Aluminum may cause issues though (unless used in an all aluminum loop). Whether the nickel degrades or not is still a hotly debated issue (especially certain companies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


I knew about aluminum because of Koolance back in the day (I don't think they still do). Alright, I'll just have to cross my fingers on the plating, hah. No big deal to me in the end.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> The fingerprints!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, yeah, everyone complains about that. I ain't finished yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll wipe everything down when she's finished. No point in doing it now since I'm still working on it. I'm waiting on a booster to complete the build but the loop is pretty much done (minus the finger print removal task). I need some gloves
Click to expand...

I feel some of your pain. My Lian Li picks them up pretty good too, but most of them wipe of pretty easy. I did make the mistake of eating pizza before working on it







those were not easy to get off.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I knew about aluminum because of Koolance back in the day (I don't think they still do). Alright, I'll just have to cross my fingers on the plating, hah. No big deal to me in the end.


Most rads are made from brass and some from copper. Some rads have copper or brass pipes with aluminum fins for the (heatexhanger).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I guess I'm not going with a New Radiator. Dude wants too much(still reasonable though) and my wallet doesn't have enough flex to go higher so I'm gonna be going used I guess. I don't mind though. I'll probably still get the two connections I need to complete my loop. Should still see a radiator in early April.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get a bag of medium size rubberbands and use one or two on the fitting for grip. Works awesome for finger tightening fittings as well as loosening stubborn to remove collars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Which one where you thinking of getting?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I feel some of your pain. My Lian Li picks them up pretty good too, but most of them wipe of pretty easy. I did make the mistake of *eating pizza* before working on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those were not easy to get off.


Ymmmy!


----------



## Rowey

Building a system this weekend for a friend. Little modding involved including a bit of drilling, ill post pictures over the weekend. Just a simple cpu loop with an RX120.

Keep you updated guys.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I feel some of your pain. My Lian Li picks them up pretty good too, but most of them wipe of pretty easy. I did make the mistake of eating pizza before working on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those were not easy to get off.


haha yeah, fingerprints make me want to buy a Bitfenix case with their SofTouch coating. It's pretty cool.

...I still can't believe that Microsoft made the majority of their Sidewinder X4 keyboard *piano black*... it looked real sexy when I first opened it... now it looks horrific


----------



## nycste

Why hello everyone Nycste here sharing my build with everyone looking for any and all tips. This build is pretty budget oriented so please keep that in mind and my starting point is already a finished project in need of assistance which is why I came here and decided to post my log and ask for help rather then just read page upon pages nonstop







...

*Hardware*

Corsair 700D Case
Corsair HX1000w Power Supply
Asrock P67 Extreme4 Gen3 Intel Motherboard
Intel i5 2500K CPU
G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1866
Evga GTX 460 FPB
2 Intel G2 Raid 0 SSD Harddrives
2 Storage Drives

*Watercooled Components*
Black Ice GTX Extreme 360mm Radiator
Swiftech 655 with speed control and EK v2 top
EK-MultiOption RES X2 - 250 Basic - Liquid Cooling Reservoir (4 Total Ports)
EK HF Supreme Clear CPU Waterblock
Primoflex 1/2 x 3/4 Black Tubing
w some Hardware Store Clear Tubing

*Fans Consist of*
AeroCool Gate Watcher 2 Front Panel Fan Controller
2x 140mm Corsair and Coolermaster Basic Fans
3x 120mm Coolermaster R4s Blue Leds
2x 120mm Silverstone Everflows
1x 120mm S-Flex Somethings

28 Inch Hanns-g Monitor
Microsoft Sidewinder x4 Keyboard
Thermaltake TT Sports Black Element Gaming Mouse
Logitech 5.1 Surround Sound Speaker System

I think that covers everything

*Step 1*








By nycste at 2012-03-27









By nycste at 2012-03-27











By nycste at 2012-03-27









By nycste at 2012-03-27









By nycste at 2012-03-27









By nycste at 2012-03-27









By nycste at 2012-03-27









By nycste at 2012-03-27

Needs a fixing








By nycste at 2012-03-27









By nycste at 2012-03-27

and my backup controller

















By nycste at 2012-03-17

*Current Setup*








By nycste at 2012-03-27

*Post Number 3 Will Hold All of My Questions Fixes Etc*

Please checkout my log in my link could really use the tips and advice to finalize a few things... I am currently only up to page 128/379 at 50 posts a page lol


----------



## wermad

^^^^Watts tube? Looks very nice (just the aforementioned cracked res noted







). What dye/coolant you running? Looks very good









btw: I love the CM R4s, I got twenty that spin whisper quiet in my rig


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Is there any reason to not run nickel and copper blocks together aside from the possible plating issue? (assume the plating is perfect)


No,there shouldnt be any issues. I just feel plating adds another variable thats not needed.....The plating has to be prepped before hand and it needs to be done well,Ek seems to struggle with this recently.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I guess I'm not going with a New Radiator. Dude wants too much(still reasonable though) and my wallet doesn't have enough flex to go higher so I'm gonna be going used I guess. I don't mind though. I'll probably still get the two connections I need to complete my loop. Should still see a radiator in early April.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get a bag of medium size rubberbands and use one or two on the fitting for grip. Works awesome for finger tightening fittings as well as loosening stubborn to remove collars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which one where you thinking of getting?
Click to expand...

Koolance 360 Radiator.

But the one I'm probably getting...

Well it's in the air and will be arriving in Canada tomorrow evening. But I hope to be getting a Black Ice GT Stealth 360. I just couldn't see(and really don't have the funds) spending $75 on a Radiator that should cost no more than $60 because the seller includes the shipping cost into the price and then states "Free Shipping". It's not Free Shipping if you add it into the cost of the item you're selling. I'm not sturpid. I see what he did. For large items like that just post the shipping amount and call it $60 + Shipping.







I doubt anyone would complain about that. But to mark it up $15 over actual cost an say Free Shipping? I'm gonna low ball you and expect Free Shipping.









I'll still buy from the guy cause he's got some reasonable prices on other things but not 360s'.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^Watts tube? Looks very nice (just the aforementioned cracked res noted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). What dye/coolant you running? Looks very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw: I love the CM R4s, I got twenty that spin whisper quiet in my rig


Heya thanks I am still in the process of working out the kinks I actually got this system used off someone from OCN and I am doing my best to spice it up. I plan on going all white tubes within the week because my new RES just arrived. It will be my first time doing everything but I have helped my buddy several times build his.

Watts tube? I assume your asking whats the tubing? well its Primoflex 1/2 x 3/4 Black Tubing + w some Hardware Store Clear Tubing.

Cracked RES = Replaced within days

Dye/coolant = I have no idea I did not install it, I plan on replacing it with distilled water and kill coil on my next drain (within a week). But ill save the blue stuff in a sealed jar or something.

In response to your CM R4s these are good fans? Seems many do not use them and everyone recommended I just go AP-15s like everyone else it seems. I am not a huge fan of blue but they do look good. So I will try them out on the white tubing UV most likely and see how things shape up. Any tips are and I am all ears. Ideally jump in my personal thread and we can discuss this and help me out


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> *In response to your CM R4s these are good fans?* Seems many do not use them and everyone recommended I just go AP-15s like everyone else it seems. I am not a huge fan of blue but they do look good. So I will try them out on the white tubing UV most likely and see how things shape up. Any tips are and I am all ears. Ideally jump in my personal thread and we can discuss this and help me out


Good for a low FPI rad like an RX or SR....poor choice for your GTX high FPI rad beast. AP15's are nice, but that GTX wants Ultra Kaze 38mm,3000 rpm fans,then watch your temps plummet!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Heya thanks I am still in the process of working out the kinks I actually got this system used off someone from OCN and I am doing my best to spice it up. I plan on going all white tubes within the week because my new RES just arrived. It will be my first time doing everything but I have helped my buddy several times build his.
> Watts tube? I assume your asking whats the tubing? well its Primoflex 1/2 x 3/4 Black Tubing + w some Hardware Store Clear Tubing.
> Cracked RES = Replaced within days
> Dye/coolant = I have no idea I did not install it, I plan on replacing it with distilled water and kill coil on my next drain (within a week). But ill save the blue stuff in a sealed jar or something.
> In response to your CM R4s these are good fans? Seems many do not use them and everyone recommended I just go AP-15s like everyone else it seems. I am not a huge fan of blue but they do look good. So I will try them out on the white tubing UV most likely and see how things shape up. Any tips are and I am all ears. Ideally jump in my personal thread and we can discuss this and help me out


They have exceeded my expectations. Better than the Yate Loons Medium i used to run all the time in several of my past builds. I don't really mind the led(s). My rads (SR1) are rated for fans up to 2000 rpm which is what the R4s are rated at max voltage. I like how I can drop the voltage super low compare to the Yates. APs are the epitome but I really can't justify forking $400 for fans







. My current setup has been able to tame three 480s and I'm waiting to see what happens with the 4th one thrown in. I'll hit you up in your thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Heya thanks I am still in the process of working out the kinks I actually got this system used off someone from OCN and I am doing my best to spice it up. I plan on going all white tubes within the week because my new RES just arrived. It will be my first time doing everything but I have helped my buddy several times build his.
> Watts tube? I assume your asking whats the tubing? well its Primoflex 1/2 x 3/4 Black Tubing + w some Hardware Store Clear Tubing.
> Cracked RES = Replaced within days
> Dye/coolant = I have no idea I did not install it, I plan on replacing it with distilled water and kill coil on my next drain (within a week). But ill save the blue stuff in a sealed jar or something.
> In response to your CM R4s these are good fans? Seems many do not use them and everyone recommended I just go AP-15s like everyone else it seems. I am not a huge fan of blue but they do look good. So I will try them out on the white tubing UV most likely and see how things shape up. Any tips are and I am all ears. Ideally jump in my personal thread and we can discuss this and help me out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have exceeded my expectations. Better than the Yate Loons Medium i used to run all the time in several of my past builds. I don't really mind the led(s). My rads (SR1) are rated for fans up to 2000 rpm which is what the R4s are rated at max voltage. I like how I can drop the voltage super low compare to the Yates. APs are the epitome but I really can't justify forking $400 for fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My current setup has been able to tame three 480s and I'm waiting to see what happens with the 4th one thrown in. I'll hit you up in your thread.
Click to expand...

Coulda got Yate Loon High Speeds for cheaper. But R4s' are a reasonable alternative.









I'm getting Yates d12sh-12c in 120x20 and gonna put em on 7mm shrouds should work fairly nice. Not LED model but some things just cannot be done. So I'll be lighting things up with CCLs' I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Coulda got Yate Loon High Speeds for cheaper. But R4s' are a reasonable alternative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting Yates d12sh-12c in 120x20 and gonna put em on 7mm shrouds should work fairly nice. Not LED model but some things just cannot be done. So I'll be lighting things up with CCLs' I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder




This is what im going to be using on my AMS 480's...


----------



## bundymania




----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


At that point, why not just skip tubes entirely


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Old build from you bundy....

Everybody loves a jingway!!


----------



## bundymania

Older build but very nice build, eh


----------



## wireeater

What is a good controller for at least 12 fans?


----------



## wilkinsb01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Why hello everyone Nycste here sharing my build with everyone looking for any and all tips. This build is pretty budget oriented so please keep that in mind and my starting point is already a finished project in need of assistance which is why I came here and decided to post my log and ask for help rather then just read page upon pages nonstop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> *Hardware*
> Corsair 700D Case
> Corsair HX1000w Power Supply
> Asrock P67 Extreme4 Gen3 Intel Motherboard
> Intel i5 2500K CPU
> G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1866
> Evga GTX 460 FPB
> 2 Intel G2 Raid 0 SSD Harddrives
> 2 Storage Drives
> *Watercooled Components*
> Black Ice GTX Extreme 360mm Radiator
> Swiftech 655 with speed control and EK v2 top
> EK-MultiOption RES X2 - 250 Basic - Liquid Cooling Reservoir (4 Total Ports)
> EK HF Supreme Clear CPU Waterblock
> Primoflex 1/2 x 3/4 Black Tubing
> w some Hardware Store Clear Tubing
> *Fans Consist of*
> AeroCool Gate Watcher 2 Front Panel Fan Controller
> 2x 140mm Corsair and Coolermaster Basic Fans
> 3x 120mm Coolermaster R4s Blue Leds
> 2x 120mm Silverstone Everflows
> 1x 120mm S-Flex Somethings
> 28 Inch Hanns-g Monitor
> Microsoft Sidewinder x4 Keyboard
> Thermaltake TT Sports Black Element Gaming Mouse
> Logitech 5.1 Surround Sound Speaker System
> I think that covers everything
> *Step 1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> Needs a fixing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> and my backup controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-17
> *Current Setup*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By nycste at 2012-03-27
> *Post Number 3 Will Hold All of My Questions Fixes Etc*
> Please checkout my log in my link could really use the tips and advice to finalize a few things... I am currently only up to page 128/379 at 50 posts a page lol


good system was mine i sold by CL push that 2500k to 5.2ghz @1.48v is able to do


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wireeater*
> 
> What is a good controller for at least 12 fans?


Subeam Rheobus, old version - 20 Watts per Channel. You can even control a laing pump with it !

or the newer version - max. 30 watts per channel !









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7106/bus-125/Sunbeam_Rheobus-Extreme_6-Channel_Fan_Controller_-_Black_RHK-EX-BK.html

http://www.crazypc.com/products/PL-RS-6.html


----------



## carrotman

Spoiler: This is a spoiler



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wilkinsb01*
> 
> good system was mine i sold by CL push that 2500k to 5.2ghz @1.48v is able to do






PLEASE use the spoiler function wilkinsb01... please...


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Subeam Rheobus, old version - 20 Watts per Channel. You can even control a laing pump with it !
> or the newer version - max. 30 watts per channel !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7106/bus-125/Sunbeam_Rheobus-Extreme_6-Channel_Fan_Controller_-_Black_RHK-EX-BK.html
> http://www.crazypc.com/products/PL-RS-6.html


Any way to change the LED's on that sucker?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Coulda got Yate Loon High Speeds for cheaper. But R4s' are a reasonable alternative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting Yates d12sh-12c in 120x20 and gonna put em on 7mm shrouds should work fairly nice. Not LED model but some things just cannot be done. So I'll be lighting things up with CCLs' I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what im going to be using on my AMS 480's...
Click to expand...

What model is that and what's the depth of them? Come in Red? An where you get em?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*






Can we get a front shot? I normally wouldn't ask but being that I'm going to use an SLI bridge to make the jump from FC to CPU, I'd like to get an idea of just what I'm looking at for a hardline setup. Thanks Bundy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wireeater*
> 
> What is a good controller for at least 12 fans?


See last response in this reply.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wireeater*
> 
> What is a good controller for at least 12 fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Subeam Rheobus, old version - 20 Watts per Channel. You can even control a laing pump with it !
> 
> or the newer version - max. 30 watts per channel !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7106/bus-125/Sunbeam_Rheobus-Extreme_6-Channel_Fan_Controller_-_Black_RHK-EX-BK.html
> 
> http://www.crazypc.com/products/PL-RS-6.html
Click to expand...

I would say the RheoSmart 3 or 6 would do quite well with some Y splitters to sort out the which set of fans to undervolt with their counterparts.









RheoSmart comes with 2 color LED. Red/Green. Red when controlled by PWM. Green when Manual.


















~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What model is that and what's the depth of them? Come in Red? An where you get em?
> ~Ceadder



2 of the 480 version and 1 480 dual circuit in the roof

Specialtech.com are getting them in for me.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 2 of the 480 version and 1 480 dual circuit in the roof
> Specialtech.com are getting them in for me.


What is that big thing on the end? Normally they look like this http://www.maximumpc.com/files/u90693/5_radiator_full.jpg ?


----------



## jellis142

That's the pump


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What model is that and what's the depth of them? Come in Red? An where you get em?
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 of the 480 version and 1 480 dual circuit in the roof
> 
> Specialtech.com are getting them in for me.
Click to expand...

I know what that is I was talking about the Fan you posted...



LED or no? 20mm or 25mm? Where can I get them if they are LED and 20mm and what is their price?









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> What is that big thing on the end? Normally they look like this http://www.maximumpc.com/files/u90693/5_radiator_full.jpg ?


24v capable D5.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I know what that is I was talking about the Fan you posted...
> 
> LED or no? 20mm or 25mm? Where can I get them if they are LED and 20mm and what is their price?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No LED,25mm,£14 each


----------



## nycste

So based on the above feedback I am still unsure and I lean my final answer on just preference unless someone has something to add.

I ask anyone reading this I am unsure which fans to purchase if any. Maybe I will just reuse what I have access to right now and take babysteps since AP-15s are so damn expensive and I have a high powered type of RAD what makes more sense. (GTX black ice 360)

Sticking with my LED R4s or upgrading to a high powered fan controlled YATE LOOM or similiar fan(kyze 3000s which i read bad reviews on quality but sure do produce lot of air) or just suck it up and got 3-6 AP-15s?

Based on the above would running 6 fans always be the best setup? or perhaps would running only 3 with 3 Shrouds perhaps change things up and offer better performance and less noise?

thanks


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

GT ap15s or higher, like ap23s, or higher rpm noiseblocker PL series. If you wanna go cheap then some high speed yate loons.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> GT ap15s or higher, like ap23s, or higher rpm noiseblocker PL series. If you wanna go cheap then some high speed yate loons.


2nded on the Yate Loons. Average price around the net is $4 a fan before shipping.









Now that my little flirtation with the NBs' has run its course I'm sticking with Yates.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Xigmatek has some very quiet 1500rpm 61cfm fans at around $11 a piece


----------



## Captivate

I need 6 solid 140mm radiator fans. Will be using a fan controller. Is there anything similar to an AP-15? (which I'll be using for my 120 rads).


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wireeater*
> 
> What is a good controller for at least 12 fans?


Y u no like NZXT Sentry Mix, 50W/channel (6 channels) and all the LED colors most people need


----------



## wermad

Smexy (but low wattage per channel, ~12w):


----------



## Captivate

What about Scythe Kaze Master Pro? 6 channels and 12W (1A) per channel. AP15s only get like 0.087A so theoretically I could control a ton of fans with that one? Also it has an LCD display with temperature and rpm, just what I need.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> What about Scythe Kaze Master Pro? 6 channels and 12W (1A) per channel. AP15s only get like 0.087A so theoretically I could control a ton of fans with that one? Also it has an LCD display with temperature and rpm, just what I need.


----------



## wireeater

I will throw a few more in here if you don't mind. I am still modding so I haven't cleaned it since I built the darn thing a month ago, lol. So it has smudges, prints and everything else on it right now, sorry. I plan on getting 2 pull red led fans for the 240 rad and 3 push red leds for the 360 eventually to add some color inside. This was my first water build.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> I need 6 solid 140mm radiator fans. Will be using a fan controller. Is there anything similar to an AP-15? (which I'll be using for my 120 rads).


What's your budget?

If you don't mind expensive fans, I've been quite pleased with my three 140mm Noiseblockers. The low startup voltage is especially nice for nearly silent daily use. Even when I crank them up for folding, they are completely drowned out by the GTX580's fan.


----------



## Captivate

How many watts do a fan use anyway? AP-15s are rated at 0.087A, and at 12V, doesn't that make them less than 1W (which seems really low)? I must be making some error here.


----------



## Captivate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> What's your budget?
> If you don't mind expensive fans, I've been quite pleased with my three 140mm Noiseblockers. The low startup voltage is especially nice for nearly silent daily use. Even when I crank them up for folding, they are completely drowned out by the GTX580's fan.


I was shooting for <20$ per fan, since I will have to buy 6. 25$ per fan is a lot.


----------



## wireeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Y u no like NZXT Sentry Mix, 50W/channel (6 channels) and all the LED colors most people need


Ya, I forgot about that one!


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> I was shooting for <20$ per fan, since I will have to buy 6. 25$ per fan is a lot.


That's understandable. I kinda splurged when I built my loop. Even just 3 of them hurt my wallet, but they've done me well.


----------



## Captivate

Oh I'm splurging. I'm already way over budget








What's the static pressure on those things? I prefer ones with high static pressure.


----------



## Captivate

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11895/fan-780/BGears_B-Blaster_140mm_x_25mm_1800RPM_High_Speed_Fan.html?tl=g36c15s775

These fans seem to have higher static pressure than the AP-15. They are probably noisier too, but so far these are the ones with the highest air pressure I've found.
Wish I never bought Yate Loons now :|


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> Oh I'm splurging. I'm already way over budget
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the static pressure on those things? I prefer ones with high static pressure.


I don't think I ever looked it up before. Looking at the back of the box, apparently the PK-3 does 1781 mm-H20 at 12 V.

I'm using a low FPI rad (EK CoolStream XTC 420), so I don't think static pressure really matters in my case. I often use this rig for audio recording, so the pursuit of low noise was my driving force. The wide voltage range (4.5 to 12 V), low noise characteristics, and 6-year warranty sold me.


----------



## LiljHoN05

Hello Water Coolers!

I want to share my UPDATED PHANTOM DIFFUSER MOD:















Please Visit my Site for the Video Capture: http://westsidecasemods.com/video/nzxt-phantom-project-diffuser/

and Visit my Forums here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1228392/project-phantom-diffuser/20

Thanks ^_^


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiljHoN05*
> 
> Hello Water Coolers!
> I want to share my UPDATED PHANTOM DIFFUSER MOD:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please Visit my Site for the Video Capture: http://westsidecasemods.com/video/nzxt-phantom-project-diffuser/
> 
> 
> and Visit my Forums here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1228392/project-phantom-diffuser/20
> Thanks ^_^


Super nice execution! I love the bottom divider/floor.


----------



## LiljHoN05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Super nice execution! I love the bottom divider/floor.


thanks bro,.


----------



## 4514kaiser

hey random question its normal for you res level to drop when you turn on your pumps..... first wc system








I'll post some pics when i'v finished!!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> hey random question its normal for you res level to drop when you turn on your pumps..... first wc system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some pics when i'v finished!!


Yep. It's because when you shut it off, all the water that's moving dumps into the res. Then when it starts again, it has to refill the empty part of the loop.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Just purchased three 120x20 in Medium silents(I wanted HighSpeed Silents







but these will do for now), three 7mm shroud/decouplers, three Koolance 25mm connection kits to mount them to the Radiator, 3pack Red M4 button head screws to mount the Radiator to the top of my 932, Koolance VGI 2-3 connector and Fillport.









Hopefully the rotary Male/Male, Male/Male, Female/Female and 3pin 3Y splitter gets here, otherwise I'm screwed 6ways to Sunday. Ordered that package nearly 2 weeks ago and it's still not here. Really annoying, but what ya gonna do right.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> hey random question its normal for you res level to drop when you turn on your pumps..... first wc system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some pics when i'v finished!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Yep. It's because when you shut it off, all the water that's moving dumps into the res. Then when it starts again, it has to refill the empty part of the loop.
> Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


What empty part of the loop? there shouldnt be any empty parts,if its not got water in it then its air...which means its not bled properly.

How much is the drop?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> hey random question its normal for you res level to drop when you turn on your pumps..... first wc system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some pics when i'v finished!!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Yep. It's because when you shut it off, all the water that's moving dumps into the res. Then when it starts again, it has to refill the empty part of the loop.
> Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What empty part of the loop? there shouldnt be any empty parts,if its not got water in it then its air...which means its not bled properly.
> 
> How much is the drop?
Click to expand...

The parts of the loop that the water was running through... Once the pump shuts off, no more water is going through it so all the water already in motion continues as far as it can typically to the res. Every single system I've seen and built has a drop in res water level, slight, but still there.

The only way I could see this be eliminated is if you filled the res completely to the brim while the system was on so that no extra water could empty into it.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> The parts of the loop that the water was running through... Once the pump shuts off, no more water is going through it so all the water already in motion continues as far as it can typically to the res. Every single system I've seen and built has a drop in res water level, slight, but still there.
> The only way I could see this be eliminated is if you filled the res completely to the brim while the system was on so that no extra water could empty into it.
> Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


Yes,but displacement of the water just draws more water behind it,there are no empty spaces.
Basic Physics there mate,the level drop is just down to the pressurizing of the loop.
The reason i ask about the amount of drop is that it can indicate trapped air pockets.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, I was gonna say that if you filled the loop completely and burped it appropriately, there shouldn't be any air left in the system. Some people do leave a little air in their Res though so that's probably where the displacement comes from.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 2nded on the Yate Loons. Average price around the net is $4 a fan before shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that my little flirtation with the NBs' has run its course I'm sticking with Yates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Well, there is a reason, why those fans are so cheap !







After 1 year, you can throw them out of the window, because they´re getting noisy

Go for Noiseblocker PL1 or PL2, very good for radiator usage, or the mentioned Gentle Typhoons, if you like the color


----------



## wireeater

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler: Quoted Posts



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> hey random question its normal for you res level to drop when you turn on your pumps..... first wc system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some pics when i'v finished!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Yep. It's because when you shut it off, all the water that's moving dumps into the res. Then when it starts again, it has to refill the empty part of the loop.
> Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What empty part of the loop? there shouldnt be any empty parts,if its not got water in it then its air...which means its not bled properly.
> How much is the drop?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> The parts of the loop that the water was running through... Once the pump shuts off, no more water is going through it so all the water already in motion continues as far as it can typically to the res. Every single system I've seen and built has a drop in res water level, slight, but still there.
> The only way I could see this be eliminated is if you filled the res completely to the brim while the system was on so that no extra water could empty into it.
> Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,but displacement of the water just draws more water behind it,there are no empty spaces.
> Basic Physics there mate,the level drop is just down to the pressurizing of the loop.
> The reason i ask about the amount of drop is that it can indicate trapped air pockets.






Ya. There should be NO level drops. The water should be constant through the complete loop, even when the pump is off. That would mean you had air pockets in your loop. If you do then you want to fill it and keep rocking the case until you don't see the level drop anymore. I know when I set mine up I had to refill at least 8 - 10 times before it was completely full.

That's the whole point of bleeding the system on the install with turning the pump on and off. You fill the res up, turn the pump on until it draws the water out then you turn it off, fill it up again, rock the case around to move the air around if possible, then repeat the over again until when you turn it on and off and you see no difference in the water level. Then you just want to make sure you leave the port open on the res for a little while you let any air escape.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Well, there is a reason, why those fans are so cheap !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *After 1 year, you can throw them out of the window, because they´re getting noisy*
> Go for Noiseblocker PL1 or PL2, very good for radiator usage, or the mentioned Gentle Typhoons, if you like the color


Which is a pain when you have them banked hardwired harnesses....Noiseblocker had thought about that with the 3 pin actually on the fan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 2nded on the Yate Loons. Average price around the net is $4 a fan before shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that my little flirtation with the NBs' has run its course I'm sticking with Yates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, there is a reason, why those fans are so cheap !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 1 year, you can throw them out of the window, because they´re getting noisy
> 
> Go for Noiseblocker PL1 or PL2, very good for radiator usage, or the mentioned Gentle Typhoons, if you like the color
Click to expand...

I've had mine(LED models) going on 2 years now with no issues. I'm gonna be dismantling the blades from the new ones to paint them anyway, so I'll hit the bearings with a light dab of 3n1. Shouldn't be an issue.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Which is a pain when you have them banked hardwired harnesses....Noiseblocker had thought about that with the 3 pin actually on the fan.


So the Pins are on the Fan too? Pics or it didn't happen.







lol

I did notice that those Noise Blockers have a very good Static Pressure rating though. Too bad they're $22 here in the States. I don't expect them to be $4 each. Just should be a more reasonable price considering that they're 120s'.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It happened.


----------



## 4514kaiser

It's a big loop the drop is like 1 inch in a 50mm Dia phobya res......

Ya thats why I ask it didn't make logical sence to me unless there was a air large air pocket....

Just trying to load windows i'll give the case a shake and do a quick leak test thanks









BTW apart from shaking any tips on getting water out of the top 2 480 rads


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> It's a big loop the drop is like 1 inch in a 50mm Dia phobya res......
> Ya thats why I ask it didn't make logical sence to me unless there was a air large air pocket....
> Just trying to load windows i'll give the case a shake and do a quick leak test thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW apart from shaking any tips on getting water out of the top 2 480 rads


I experienced the same issues (not really an issue) and made a lot of researches about this physic phenomenon. Like the other said, it's because of air pocket.

Tilt the case around or turn the pump on and off and leave the Reservoir open *when the loop is running*. If you have to much water in the reservoir and you then turn off the pumps while the Res is open, the water will spill out.

Sometime there is also another reason for this level drop especially if you have a big loop with many blocks in it: *Restriction*. I experienced this phenomenom when I had my loop for a while and didnt realize that my CPU block acted as a filter (because of EK nickel plating







) and it was all gunked up. I had to find out the source of the restriction and dissassamble the CPU block and clean it thoroughly. Since then, the loop was fine.

If you have a Drain T-Line, don't forget that the water will take time to go there especially if you don't open the line to let the air out.

Time will also help to bleed the air out. I don't even tilt the case, I let the pumps do their job, but I open the Reservoir from time to time to let the air out. My case is over 100 lbs and with a Reservoir mounted at the back, I prefer not to tilt it.

Anyway, that was my 2 cents


----------



## wireeater

So far I am happy with my medium yate loons. I forgot who I ordered them from but they were sleeved too. Can't beat that for 4$ a pop. I would like to eventually upgrade but it's hard to grasp spending 100+ dollars for 10 fans which will probably only make -few degrees difference. I guess it's important for people running higher ambient though?

Is it true though that these type of fans don't last long when you lay the horizontal opposed to vertical?


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I experienced the same issues (not really an issue) and made a lot of researches about this physic phenomenon. Like the other said, it's because of air pocket.
> Tilt the case around or turn the pump on and off and leave the Reservoir open *when the loop is running*. If you have to much water in the reservoir and you then turn off the pumps while the Res is open, the water will spill out.
> Sometime there is also another reason for this level drop especially if you have a big loop with many blocks in it: *Restriction*. I experienced this phenomenom when I had my loop for a while and didnt realize that my CPU block acted as a filter (because of EK nickel plating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and it was all gunked up. I had to find out the source of the restriction and dissassamble the CPU block and clean it thoroughly. Since then, the loop was fine.
> If you have a Drain T-Line, don't forget that the water will take time to go there especially if you don't open the line to let the air out.
> Time will also help to bleed the air out. I don't even tilt the case, I let the pumps do their job, but I open the Reservoir from time to time to let the air out. My case is over 100 lbs and with a Reservoir mounted at the back, I prefer not to tilt it.
> Anyway, that was my 2 cents


Ty ya my loop is quite large it just didn't make sence that the res should drop that much... General specs
4 x 480
2 x AC AQ5 WB - parallel
Raystorm
EK RE4 MB block
2 x EK 7970 blocks - parallel
2 x ddc-1 w/ DIYINHK PCB w/ xspc duel top

So a fair bit of stuff but 1 inch (if not 1 1/2 inchers now that i look at it again seems like a large drop that's what's making me think that i have a large air bubble in my top to rads adding a whole lot of resriction which would explain the massive drop!


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wireeater*
> 
> So far I am happy with my medium yate loons. I forgot who I ordered them from but they were sleeved too. Can't beat that for 4$ a pop. I would like to eventually upgrade but it's hard to grasp spending 100+ dollars for 10 fans which will probably only make -few degrees difference. I guess it's important for people running higher ambient though?
> Is it true though that these type of fans don't last long when you lay the horizontal opposed to vertical?


$100+ thats optimistic


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> I need 6 solid 140mm radiator fans. Will be using a fan controller. Is there anything similar to an AP-15? (which I'll be using for my 120 rads).


I've had great success with noiseblocker pk-3s for all of my 140 rads. Couldn't be happier. They are quite pricey, but nearly silent even at ~1700 rpm, of course unless you have 20 or so blowing at once.


----------



## ViperSB1

Hello all, need some advice here...
I just built my first water cooling rig. I am having an issue with air in the loop. I have gotten all of the air out but when the system runs for an extended time, then is shut down, I get air bubles that seem to originate at the pump on startup. The system has no leaks so I am leaning towards pump cavitation as a possibility. Thinking that running the pump at a lower speed may reduce cavitation... any ideas on this? Its not a big deal but it is getting quite annoying hearing all that air on startup. I am running a MCP655-B with a Koolance COV-RP450 top using the top inlet/outlet.


----------



## R4MP4G3

Here are some pictures of my latest rig. I finished it the other day so I've been making some tweaks here and there before the photo shoot. It took me about a month to get everything done. Hope you enjoy it.







.....I'm not sure why some of the pics didn't rotate though













































I sleeved all the power supply cables and wrapped the pump cable around the pump.


----------



## jackofhearts495

That looks so clean and coordinated... great job! Could you post a full shot without the window?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> It happened.










Cool. Still if they don't come with the extensions (I'm sure they do though) that's even more money.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wireeater*
> 
> So far I am happy with my medium yate loons. I forgot who I ordered them from but they were sleeved too. Can't beat that for 4$ a pop. I would like to eventually upgrade but it's hard to grasp spending 100+ dollars for 10 fans which will probably only make -few degrees difference. I guess it's important for people running higher ambient though?
> 
> *Is it true though that these type of fans don't last long when you lay the horizontal opposed to vertical*?


Meh. It's recommended not to run them horizontally. But at $4 apiece I didn't care. The only Yate Loon I haven't run horizontally is the 140 that replaced the crappy CoolerMaster fan in the back of my case. An I've never had a problem with them. They aren't noisy. I think the reason for this, is that I have them undervolted on the RheoSmart, which might have something to do with it too since they're not running at full speed 100% of the time.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

They come with black braided extensions,a nice touch i think.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh very nice. I figured they should come with extensions. The braided is the cheese though.









FYI for anyone concerned, I have 5 Matte Black BitsPower 1/2"x3/4" Comps in trade/sale section. Looking to stick with EK Black Nickel fittings of the same size. Swapping them would be a pretty nice discount for anyone looking for BP Compressions. I only have 5 of them though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

just got the new parts!!!!!

2 hd 7970s with koolance blocks









2 ex360mm rads
2 ex480mm rads
6 compression fittings
4 rotary 90 degree fittings


----------



## wireeater

Yummy, have fun with those!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4MP4G3*
> 
> Here are some pictures of my latest rig. I finished it the other day so I've been making some tweaks here and there before the photo shoot. It took me about a month to get everything done. Hope you enjoy it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....I'm not sure why some of the pics didn't rotate though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sleeved all the power supply cables and wrapped the pump cable around the pump.


Nice to see some Enzotech in action







. Great mb btw


----------



## ShortAlieN

Well I better drop mine in here. Not quite finished, but almost.























































And if your backside looks this good... you have to show it off.




























Sooo.... what ya think?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

^^^

I think beautiful!


----------



## Zufushiki

I just drop this to here!


----------



## Ceadderman

Very nice setup. Though I don't know why anyone puts their pump on the PSU. Spring a leak an you're done.









Of course I wouldn't be able to put my pump on the PSU anyway being that it's in a dual ddc top and the Res is going to be attached to it. A little difficult to find the room. I just found some old packing material that I'm gonna use to decouple my pump from the bottom of the case. The really cool thing is that this material has adhesive on one side and the other has a small strip of the same material that I can use to keep the pump in place. Being that I only have one pump atm, I had to cut a length that is the same width as the top to set under it to keep the whole thing level. That's not all that spectacular, but what I'm doing(will provide pics later) will allow air to blow over the middle of both pumps, keep it off the case and (with some reasonable way to secure the Res to the 5.25 chassis) should keep things from coming apart should I have to tip the case for any reason.









It's late now so I'm gonna watch some telly an head off to la la land.









~Ceadder


----------



## 4514kaiser

Nice build Zufushiki







have to say never realised those pumps were that big woot, ddc pumps seem really small now lol


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Well I better drop mine in here. Not quite finished, but almost.
> 
> Sooo.... what ya think?


Very very nice build, I like the theme. I like how everything is compact! Have you used White led or purple led?


----------



## ShortAlieN

The LED's are white. Its a pretty good squeeze to get everything in the RV02, but it worked out nicely.
Thanks


----------



## bundymania

Brandnew version of their 7970 block - no 3D Glasses in the Box...a shame


----------



## Greecean

is the 3d-Flow actually a performance benefit or are they just cashing in on the fancy name?


----------



## bundymania

Look at the older version + name and find the answer for yourself


----------



## carrotman

I started a build log here, though I don't have much progress yet.


----------



## longroadtrip

deleted...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greecean*
> 
> is the 3d-Flow actually a performance benefit or are they just cashing in on the fancy name?


It looks like its to feed water to the vrm(s). I'm guessing just a name for the protruding piece that channels water to the vrm. As Bundy said, if you look at the old one, it doesn't have a water path to the vrm, just copper acting as a heat exchanger/heatsink.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the older version + name and find the answer for yourself


Aquacomputer make amazing GPU waterblocks! I just wish they would make an acrylic top version or at least sell the acrylic top separately. You should make that suggestion to them Bundy, I'm sure you've got connections.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Hello all, need some advice here...
> I just built my first water cooling rig. I am having an issue with air in the loop. I have gotten all of the air out but when the system runs for an extended time, then is shut down, I get air bubles that seem to originate at the pump on startup. The system has no leaks so I am leaning towards pump cavitation as a possibility. Thinking that running the pump at a lower speed may reduce cavitation... any ideas on this? Its not a big deal but it is getting quite annoying hearing all that air on startup. I am running a MCP655-B with a Koolance COV-RP450 top using the top inlet/outlet.


*Bump

Still need some advice here...
Thanks!


----------



## ShortAlieN

with a new system it is common to have air in the system for a while. As long as your reservoir is higher than the pump it should not be possible to get air back into the system. Do a lot of tapping, shaking and tilting to get the air to move around in the system, if there is any, so that it can be pushed out of the blocks/radiator and into the reservoir.


----------



## wermad

Stop the pump (disco or if you have controller), usually an air bubble forms there and gets stuck. by stopping the pump, the air bubble trys to make it to higher ground. AsShortAlieN, said have your res higher than the pump.

You can also rock your case side to side and back to front. Just make sure its sealed completely first.

Most air escapes on its own but you can speed it up by trying these suggestions.


----------



## TheJesus

Something I've been wondering about and need to actually figure out. With the FrozenQ Helix Res, how exactly do you fill it up? I was thinking I'd get a splitter (T-Connector style) and run a tube off that to fill it and then have QDCs on the tube so I can leave it there in case I need it later. Is there a cheaper way (besides fillport with that same idea)?


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Something I've been wondering about and need to actually figure out. With the FrozenQ Helix Res, how exactly do you fill it up? I was thinking I'd get a splitter (T-Connector style) and run a tube off that to fill it and then have QDCs on the tube so I can leave it there in case I need it later. Is there a cheaper way (besides fillport with that same idea)?


that will work fine. i use the top port on it to fill currently but i will be getting a t soon once i finish my scratch built case


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> that will work fine. i use the top port on it to fill currently but i will be getting a t soon once i finish my scratch built case


How would you do that if the top port is occupied by the return of the loop? I mean the 250MM T-Virus Res.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> How would you do that if the top port is occupied by the return of the loop? I mean the 250MM T-Virus Res.


On my res, there are 3 portoh wait. I thought you meant dual bay res. Oops.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> On my res, there are 3 portoh wait. I thought you meant dual bay res. Oops.


Hah, that's what I figured







This is the first time I haven't used a pump/res combo, so...


----------



## Tipless

im not using a pump res combo either lol.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Well I better drop mine in here. Not quite finished, but almost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if your backside looks this good... you have to show it off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo.... what ya think?


I'm thinking I want to see a build log on this, very beautiful


----------



## 4514kaiser

Hey i finally got around to taking some photos of my new system enjoy





















Thats what i was talking about when i mentioned the drop in my res when the pc on, when its off there is about 1/2 a cm of air in it (however I think this is just caused my all the restiction in the loop!)


----------



## Ceadderman

Well here are pics of what I'm setting my dual ddc on to decouple it...


Spoiler: Recycler's Decoupler !_!











This packing material isn't super spongy. But the idea here is to allow airflow to get under the pump(s) to help keep them cool while separating them from the metal at the bottom of my case. Why spend money to dump more packaging into the landfill if you already have something suitable to use this stuff for.









~Ceadder


----------



## ShortAlieN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I'm thinking I want to see a build log on this, very beautiful


Ask and Thou shalt recieve









Build Log


----------



## bdpakaknox

Here's my little rig, its nothing compared to some of you guys!


----------



## zdude

shes more than mine


----------



## nycste

bdpakaknox

which way your fans blowing both intake? then you leave your door off or?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> Hey i finally got around to taking some photos of my new system enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what i was talking about when i mentioned the drop in my res when the pc on, when its off there is about 1/2 a cm of air in it (however I think this is just caused my all the restiction in the loop!)










Beastie case mate, looking awesome







!

One final pic of my rig. I'm done with the loop


----------



## carrotman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One final pic of my rig. I'm done with the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't see any finger prints








Lookin' great wermad!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> I don't see any finger prints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin' great wermad!


lol, I forgot the mentioned that I used some Windex to get rid of em nasty smudges/prints


----------



## nycste

hey all does everyone have their top rads as exhause or intake or personal preference? Many cases here are 700-800Ds and we all know their air cooling is just horrible so myself with a 700D does it make sense to do

Rear = intake
Top360 rad = exhaust
bottom 2 = intake

side door has been off not sure if i will bother closing.... any better way to do this? just do top 6fans on rad as intake?


----------



## DiHyMo

Pros and cons to both, dependant on system setup specifics. Personal preference I guess.
Myself, I usually set up top rad fans as intake, gives good airflow over mobo heatsinks, and helps avoid a negative pressure/suck the dust in to the case situation. I have not found it a problem to have the warmth removed from the water blowing into the case. Use the rear fan as exhaust.
I have 2 rigs both of which are setup like this.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> hey all does everyone have their top rads as exhause or intake or personal preference? Many cases here are 700-800Ds and we all know their air cooling is just horrible so myself with a 700D does it make sense to do
> Rear = intake
> Top360 rad = exhaust
> bottom 2 = intake
> side door has been off not sure if i will bother closing.... any better way to do this? just do top 6fans on rad as intake?


Either way works fine. If they will act as exhaust, make sure you have plenty of intake from the other fans and vice versa.


----------



## DevilDriver

I present the Dragon Tower reborn
Please excuse the crappy iphone 3g pic's. its all I have.


----------



## Orbital

Here's my watercooling setup in my NZXT Phantom White;



Close up:



i'm testing for leaks, but here's how my setup is configured.

Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Resevoir; EK (not sure what the model is, but i'll edit when I find it)
240mm Radiator at the bottom,
going to XSPC Raystorm waterblock
then going to 360mm Swiftech Radiator at the top, back into the resevoir.

I need a better way to mount that pump.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orbital*
> 
> Here's my watercooling setup in my NZXT Phantom White;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Close up:
> 
> 
> 
> i'm testing for leaks, but here's how my setup is configured.
> 
> Pump: Swiftech MCP655
> Resevoir; EK (not sure what the model is, but i'll edit when I find it)
> 240mm Radiator at the bottom,
> going to XSPC Raystorm waterblock
> then going to 360mm Swiftech Radiator at the top, back into the resevoir.
> 
> 
> 
> I need a better way to mount that pump.


Meh, suspend that pump somehow> remove the bracket > make template of the pattern using cereal box cardboard > mark it out at the bottom of the 5.25 cage > drill holes in the bay > re-mount the pump in the newly fixed bracket. Problem solved.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, suspend that pump somehow> remove the bracket > make template of the pattern using cereal box cardboard > mark it out at the bottom of the 5.25 cage > drill holes in the bay > re-mount the pump in the newly fixed bracket. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


you make that sound easy lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, suspend that pump somehow> remove the bracket > make template of the pattern using cereal box cardboard > mark it out at the bottom of the 5.25 cage > drill holes in the bay > re-mount the pump in the newly fixed bracket. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


How about sticking in the drive bays if empty?

















Man, this slot cooler is driving me crazy







!!! Funny, I left a review on newegg for my Scythe controller saying that it gets really hot. And today it is now "out of stock" mostly everywhere. Hehe, anyways, looking for a good replacement, knob style, multi channel, good wattage per channel, black, 0-12v control, blue led fan controller.

Just stumbled on Gary's (from sidewindercomputer.com) clearance deals on fleabay. I picked up a bnib FC2 for $25, though its silver (a little satin black paint will take care of that







). He's got a few more Lamptrons if any one is interested:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Brackets-Clips-Accessories-/170078/i.html?_ipg=&_from=&_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ssn=sidewindercomputers


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> I don't see any finger prints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin' great wermad!
> 
> 
> 
> lol, I forgot the mentioned that I used some Windex to get rid of em nasty smudges/prints
Click to expand...

Glass cleaner FTW!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, suspend that pump somehow> remove the bracket > make template of the pattern using cereal box cardboard > mark it out at the bottom of the 5.25 cage > drill holes in the bay > re-mount the pump in the newly fixed bracket. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you make that sound easy lol
Click to expand...

Isn't it?









The Pump is already pretty well fixed in that position. Might as well take advantage of it and set that mount upside down to hold it properly. It's what I would do anyway. Course I gotta do everything the hard way so take it with a huge grain of sodium potassium iodide.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Isn't it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Pump is already pretty well fixed in that position. Might as well take advantage of it and set that mount upside down to hold it properly. It's what I would do anyway. Course I gotta do everything the hard way so take it with a huge grain of sodium potassium iodide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Wouldn't that send vibrations across the case skeleton?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Isn't it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Pump is already pretty well fixed in that position. Might as well take advantage of it and set that mount upside down to hold it properly. It's what I would do anyway. Course I gotta do everything the hard way so take it with a huge grain of sodium potassium iodide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't that send vibrations across the case skeleton frame?
Click to expand...

It would if you don't have a decoupler set up. Pretty sure that mount comes with a decoupler pad. I could be wrong though since I have DDC and not D5 but the pads are simple enough to get if it didn't come with one.









~Ceadder


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stop the pump (disco or if you have controller), usually an air bubble forms there and gets stuck. by stopping the pump, the air bubble trys to make it to higher ground. AsShortAlieN, said have your res higher than the pump.
> You can also rock your case side to side and back to front. Just make sure its sealed completely first.
> Most air escapes on its own but you can speed it up by trying these suggestions.


I am pretty sure its not air in the system, I have gotten all the air out several times. System will have NO air bubbles visible in the res while running. Then the system is shut down and powered back up, pump spits out a bunch of air bubbles. Power pump on and off many times until no air showing in res. Then again, run the system for a couple hours with no visible bubbles, shut down, power up, pump spits out bubbles again. Makes no sense, unless it's cavitation... I just don't know why the hell I'm getting cavitation in the first place. My res is almost directly above my pump and its a very open/non-restrictive loop... I'm running out of ideas here...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I am pretty sure its not air in the system, I have gotten all the air out several times. System will have NO air bubbles visible in the res while running. Then the system is shut down and powered back up, pump spits out a bunch of air bubbles. Power pump on and off many times until no air showing in res. Then again, run the system for a couple hours with no visible bubbles, shut down, power up, pump spits out bubbles again. Makes no sense, unless it's cavitation... I just don't know why the hell I'm getting cavitation in the first place. My res is almost directly above my pump and its a very open/non-restrictive loop... I'm running out of ideas here...


where is your return line on your res?


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> where is your return line on your res?


Its on the side, here's a few pictures of my setup...


----------



## Tipless

Your problem seems to be not enough separation between return and feed. Move your return up one and then that divided should get rid of air. Just a thought... Lol


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Your problem seems to be not enough separation between return and feed. Move your return up one and then that divided should get rid of air. Just a thought... Lol


i was just going to suggest that


----------



## eR_L0k0!!




----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Your problem seems to be not enough separation between return and feed. Move your return up one and then that divided should get rid of air. Just a thought... Lol


I was thinking that but the only other port is the fill port... unless... I flip the whole res and use the fill port as the feed.








Wish I had thought of that before filling the system...


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I was thinking that but the only other port is the fill port... unless... I flip the whole res and use the fill port as the feed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I had thought of that before filling the system...


Are you sure its not trapped air in the rad? does the pump make any noise when running?
Your inlet and outlet are fine on that res, its the same res I'm using. This res is designed to work the way you are using it. Try turning your pump down for a bit.
When redoing my loop yesterday took me about an hour to get the system fully bled and the pump to stop making noises. Pump set to 5 was sending fine airbubbles through the loop and there was so much air it was mixing with the water in res and getting sucked back into pump
I had to turn the pump down to 1 for a bit tilt the case in every direction and let it sit in each position for a bit, adjusting the pump speed the whole time, and topping the res off once.
Finally all air was gone and pump quit making noise.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Are you sure its not trapped air in the rad? does the pump make any noise when running?
> Your inlet and outlet are fine on that res, its the same res I'm using. This res is designed to work the way you are using it. Try turning your pump down for a bit.
> When redoing my loop yesterday took me about an hour to get the system fully bled and the pump to stop making noises. Pump set to 5 was sending fine airbubbles through the loop and there was so much air it was mixing with the water in res and getting sucked back into pump
> I had to turn the pump down to 1 for a bit tilt the case in every direction and let it sit in each position for a bit, adjusting the pump speed the whole time, and topping the res off once.
> Finally all air was gone and pump quit making noise.


I suppose it could be air in the rad but I dont think so. I can get all the air out of the system by using the standard bleeding process. Turning the pump on and off until no air shows in the res and the pump stops making noises. Then, once I'm done, I start using my system... lets say I run it for 2 hours. For that 2 hours there's no air I can see or hear in the system, great. But then I shut it down and then start it back up. Once the pump starts up you hear air in it, then you hear the air move through the whole system and sure enough, res is filled with air bubbles again. I then have to do the whole bleeding process over again.


----------



## prznar1

guys, if a tubing is touching a fan shroud is this bad or nothing to worry about? it will be a part of tubing that will come out from cpu block and go straight to radiator.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> guys, if a tubing is touching a fat shroud this is bad or nothing to worrie? it will be a part that will come out from cpu block and go straight to radiator.


Not exactly sure what you mean but I would think its fine, as long as there is not too much tension. I would also not want it touching anything that is hot or sharp.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I suppose it could be air in the rad but I dont think so. I can get all the air out of the system by using the standard bleeding process. Turning the pump on and off until no air shows in the res and the pump stops making noises. Then, once I'm done, I start using my system... lets say I run it for 2 hours. For that 2 hours there's no air I can see or hear in the system, great. But then I shut it down and then start it back up. Once the pump starts up you hear air in it, then you hear the air move through the whole system and sure enough, res is filled with air bubbles again. I then have to do the whole bleeding process over again.


out of curiosity when you turn your system on does the water lvl in the res drop any, and then come back up when you turn the system back off?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I suppose it could be air in the rad but I dont think so. I can get all the air out of the system by using the standard bleeding process. Turning the pump on and off until no air shows in the res and the pump stops making noises. Then, once I'm done, I start using my system... lets say I run it for 2 hours. For that 2 hours there's no air I can see or hear in the system, great. But then I shut it down and then start it back up. Once the pump starts up you hear air in it, then you hear the air move through the whole system and sure enough, res is filled with air bubbles again. I then have to do the whole bleeding process over again.
> 
> 
> 
> out of curiosity when you turn your system on does the water lvl in the res drop any, and then come back up when you turn the system back off?
Click to expand...

Mine does slightly because I have a RAD in the top of my case that is higher up then my reservoir. As long as the reservoir doesn't get compeltely empty on you, you should be okay.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Mine does slightly because I have a RAD in the top of my case that is higher up then my reservoir. As long as the reservoir doesn't get compeltely empty on you, you should be okay.


That's why I was asking, if it does that there is air trapped in the loop some where. which is what I'm guessing his issue is.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> out of curiosity when you turn your system on does the water lvl in the res drop any, and then come back up when you turn the system back off?


Hard to tell if its dropping or just shifting. If it does then it is just slightly. My rad is the highest point in the loop so I suppose there could be some air trapped in there... I'm gonna mess with it today and see if I can get any more air out of the rad.


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Hard to tell if its dropping or just shifting. If it does then it is just slightly. My rad is the highest point in the loop so I suppose there could be some air trapped in there... I'm gonna mess with it today and see if I can get any more air out of the rad.


I get a tiny drop as well, guess for the same reason - my radiator is at the highest point of the loop.


----------



## bdpakaknox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> bdpakaknox
> which way your fans blowing both intake? then you leave your door off or?


The fans on the top 360rad rad are pulling air through the rad and exhausting out of themy case.
im utilizing the stock haf932 intake fans on the front and side panel.


----------



## Shogo3232

here is my first WC build. enjoy!


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogo3232*
> 
> here is my first WC build. enjoy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, I thought about black tubing, just had red in my mind for to long to not go with it.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Very nice, I thought about black tubing, just had red in my mind for to long to not go with it.


Why not do both ???



Spoiler: Red and black tubing SAMPLE


----------



## Shogo3232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Why not do both ???
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Red and black tubing SAMPLE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> was thinking of going black and clear with my red water. but since it was my first i didn't want to kill my self with all that. i might do that in a few weeks.


----------



## 1rkrage

Ugh. I think I have a leak. system's dry though whenever I check.

I'm finding myself losing about 3 mm of water in the xspc reservoir every week.

I'm thinking this might be on the top of the 360 rad being overtightened

If this is indeed a leak. I guess it's an excuse to get the drain and 240 rad setup future proofing


----------



## TwentyCent

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*






What case is that? Please tell me where to put my money!


----------



## mars-bar-man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> What case is that? Please tell me where to put my money!


Corsair 800D.


----------



## prznar1

it is not 800D it's a thermalthake speedo with some mods.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mars-bar-man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> What case is that? Please tell me where to put my money!
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair 800D.
Click to expand...

HAF 932.

Stay away from ThermalTake. Far far away.









They look nice. Just not built sturdy.









~Ceadder


----------



## mars-bar-man

Helps if I read the spoiler... My bad.


----------



## Deeks

New water cooling rig finished!


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeks*
> 
> New water cooling rig finished!


Looks good Deeks! Especially the black heat-sink


----------



## jackofhearts495

Holy hell are those Elysiums massive... I like the green. Too bad you didn't go for a Sniper board or something to match the theme. The ASUS heatsinks stick out like sore thumbs


----------



## ShortAlieN

Looks good, though I am not a fan of the coils.


----------



## wermad

Awesome rig Deeks. That FrozenQ res looks great.


----------



## evoll88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Well I better drop mine in here. Not quite finished, but almost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I def like this build you got,i am kinda going for the same theme on a switch 810.


----------



## jellis142

The Thermaltake Spedo is not flimsy, I assure you


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> The Thermaltake Spedo is not flimsy, I assure you


I'll take your word for it but from my experience they aren't tanks either.









~Ceadder


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'll take your word for it but from my experience they aren't tanks either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not the same:

Spedo to an M9

800D to a 300R

There are different ranges within a brand ... Not because Thermaltake has to be bad ..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'll take your word for it but from my experience they aren't tanks either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same:
> 
> Spedo to an M9
> 
> 800D to a 300R
> 
> There are different ranges within a brand ... Not because Thermaltake has to be bad ..
Click to expand...

Okay...









My whole point is that I don't think that Thermaltakes are built that solid.

jellis stated that Spedo isn't flimsy.

Trying to figure out where what I said or what he said is related to size?























I did suggest the 932 and someone else suggested 800D but...


















~Ceadder


----------



## Stens

Hi everyone!

First time poster, long time reader of overclock.net.

Thought I'd share the "final" revision of my rig (yeah right). It's been a work in progress since August 2011 and I've tried so much different hardware that I've lost track of it all. It's been a fun journey that has reached its end (for now)







. Now I can focus all my energy in to actually using this machine.

I'd like to thank OCN users lvl8hacker and lowfat for the initial inspiration of converting my ft02 to a fully water cooled system. My excecution could definitely have been better, but I'm gonna settle with the result I have achieved now.

All photos taken with bad skills and bad hardware. I apologize for that.

My new, shiny waterblock:



Sideshots of my rig:





EDIT:
I'd like to add that this is the first time I've tried to water cool my rig and I have definitely caught the bug







.

Here's a list of the equipment used:
2x Laing D5s running on setting 2 (anything else is audible and therefore a no go







)
3x180 Magicool radiator
Koolance TNK-501 Reservoir
EK 1/2"-3/4" Compression fittings
EK 45 and 90 degree adapters
Masterkleer white 1/2"-3/4" tubing
Bitspower extenders and plugs
EK HF-Supreme-Acetal CPU block
EK-FC680 GTX - Acetal+EN


----------



## axipher

Welcome to the forum *Stens*, and that's an amazing looking rig you have there


----------



## Stens

Thank you, *axipher*


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## thfallen

Getting my define XL today will post build pictures after my dice run.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## jellis142

You guys are silly, bickering over this case size thingy







I'm just stating, the Spedo isn't like many Thermaltake cases, it's very rigid and EXCELLENT for water cooling, even without modification. Sizing up the inside, I found out if I removed the front hard drive brackets, 4 radiators could easily fit while still sustaining a full system (240mm up top, 240mm on back, 360 up front (or 480 minus optical drives), and 120 on bottom). I would use it right now... but it's too big... lol.

But I agree... I've stayed away from Thermaltake unless I know for a fact they perform well. Quality has gone down


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Maybe I can join this club?




























Nothing terribly complex, but it is the first computer I have ever built.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just got my SLi bridge and (errrrrr ...







) *ahem* fillport... Have to say I'm very happy with the SLi fitting.















I'm gonna have to get a couple washers to secure the fillport in place though. 16mm in Diameter is not going to fit the opening in the 932. Checked the block off plate in the upper PSU opening and it barely fits without falling in. Dang this thing is small.









I have to say that they did get here insanely fast. Ordered late Thursday night and was at the door(USPS) today. Now that's fast.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Ceadderman update!!!!!!!!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> Maybe I can join this club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing terribly complex, but it is the first computer I have ever built.


Fits like a glove, and props for going liquid on your first build


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ceadderman update!!!!!!!!


Well I've got everything but the Radiator to complete my loop if the lost shipment arrives. Hopefully the Radiator is on it's way too.









Sadly nobody seems to care about my connection piece from FC to CPU block.









It's okay though I'll keep sharing.














lol

~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I've got everything but the Radiator to complete my loop if the lost shipment arrives. Hopefully the Radiator is on it's way too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly nobody seems to care about my connection piece from FC to CPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's okay though I'll keep sharing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


The connection is awsome Ceadderman, but its not even mounted to the motherboard so you did approximate measuring. I'm waiting to see your update soon. It will be good









Like wermad said, an update from you is rare. Can't wait to *Finally* see the final build....hopefully *sooon*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I've got everything but the Radiator to complete my loop if the lost shipment arrives. Hopefully the Radiator is on it's way too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly nobody seems to care about my connection piece from FC to CPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's okay though I'll keep sharing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Be careful to ensure its as leveled as possible. I've used sli links before if they are not straight they will cause slow leaks. That's why I only use them to connect gpu(s). Leak test it









Looks great so far. Need a completed build soon mate


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I've got everything but the Radiator to complete my loop if the lost shipment arrives. Hopefully the Radiator is on it's way too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly nobody seems to care about my connection piece from FC to CPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's okay though I'll keep sharing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful to ensure its as leveled as possible. I've used sli links before if they are not straight they will cause slow leaks. That's why I only use them to connect gpu(s). Leak test it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great so far. Need a completed build soon mate
Click to expand...

For sure. I'm gonna leak test it mounted to the board inverted over a sponge. I'll know very quickly if there is a leak.









Although I don't believe there will be one cause I will mount it tube side flowing to sleeve side. Sleeve to tube is probably where the most danger for leakage lies. Just have to make sure that I leave enough tube in the sleeve, I believe. If I have to I'll get a rotary fitting to adjust the angle with.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Aquacomputer make amazing GPU waterblocks! I just wish they would make an acrylic top version or at least sell the acrylic top separately. You should make that suggestion to them Bundy, I'm sure you've got connections.


Yeah, that would be great, especially for a nickel plated block. BUT there will be no Acrylic Tops anymore from Aquacomputer, Watercool, Koolance and others, because of too many RMA´s that were often the fault of the customer


----------



## Ceadderman

Hard to believe, since the customer is always right. Right?









I have a plexi block. I don't see what's so hard to get. Tighten til snug and *maybe* a quarter turn further on everything. No need to wrench down on fittings/screws to get a water tight seal.









Treat if like you would an Oil Filter. If you wrench the thing on any tighter you can crush it. Snug tight, then 1/4 if it will go. If not it should be tight enough. Some people don't know their own strength though. So there is that working against them.









~Ceadder


----------



## zer0signa1

So... I have been lurking in this forum for a few weeks now... I have learned a lot the hard way and easy way, and enjoyed everything I have done. I started small ('jumped right in with no research and got a TT Bigwater - DO NOT EVER SPEND YOUR MONEY ON IT!!!'), horribly unsatisfied which in turn I found this place...







I scrapped what I had, and pieced together a custom loop... I have tore this apart about 5 times now, re routing and adding things as I go.. But in the end this case was just not for me, I just ordered a DD Torture Rack to replace this case I am showing you now, and will move this one to the server...

Original Setup....







Current setup ('till the DD TR arrives') - I brought everything that was external inside the case (Minus Res), removed the 2 1/2 and 3 1/2 bay cage, and put 2 120mm holes in bottom of case to bring air flow through. Also added a 120 Swiftech Rad in the Front. It was like cramming 10lbs of crap in a 5lbs bag....


----------



## Willhemmens

That's quite cool. Nice to see someone kind of progressing up the ladder, similarly to how I did but I started with a H50.

On those T fittings you don't have any cable ties. The pipe was probably tight to get on but still, it maybe worth putting some on.
Your res looks a little empty, do you have air bubbles running through your loop? I'd recommend filling to between half and 3/4 if possible.
Are you still using the Thermaltake pump? I heard those things are known to be unreliable. Atleast you've got a nice CPU waterblock!

You should fill in your system specs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah me too. Started with the H50. Loved it and kind of miss it. But only cause I haven't completed my first loop. Damn near done though. At least until I need to cool the GPU and add moar.

Love his CPU block. Though. To be quite honest I could have probably gotten to this stage quicker but I'd have spent moar to get less. What with upgrading of components an all.









Also it's kina become my schtick, to come here an update everyone on my ridiculously long meticulous journey to building my first loop on a beer budget with sparkling wine taste.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## sate200




----------



## jackofhearts495

Guhh...


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


>


Excellent sir, excellent indeed!


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## CiBi

i cleaned my loop and my cables, looks alot better now


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stens*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> First time poster, long time reader of overclock.net.
> Thought I'd share the "final" revision of my rig (yeah right). It's been a work in progress since August 2011 and I've tried so much different hardware that I've lost track of it all. It's been a fun journey that has reached its end (for now)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now I can focus all my energy in to actually using this machine.
> I'd like to thank OCN users lvl8hacker and lowfat for the initial inspiration of converting my ft02 to a fully water cooled system. My excecution could definitely have been better, but I'm gonna settle with the result I have achieved now.
> All photos taken with bad skills and bad hardware. I apologize for that.
> My new, shiny waterblock:
> 
> EDIT:
> I'd like to add that this is the first time I've tried to water cool my rig and I have definitely caught the bug
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Here's a list of the equipment used:
> 2x Laing D5s running on setting 2 (anything else is audible and therefore a no go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 3x180 Magicool radiator
> Koolance TNK-501 Reservoir
> EK 1/2"-3/4" Compression fittings
> EK 45 and 90 degree adapters
> Masterkleer white 1/2"-3/4" tubing
> Bitspower extenders and plugs
> EK HF-Supreme-Acetal CPU block
> EK-FC680 GTX - Acetal+EN


If 3-4 is audible you have something wrong with them, my fixed speed pump is inaudible


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*


MAN, that build is so nice, it looks like mine so much.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> If 3-4 is audible you have something wrong with them, my fixed speed pump is inaudible


you also have to remember that not everybody has the same idea of audible. My computer is loud, but I don't notice it because I like to have a lot of ambient noise around me. So a D5 on max speed would be considered inaudible for my rig most likely. So he might just have a super quiet rig.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Ya I have 2 under volted ddc-1 (@10v) w/ DIYINHK mod, pumps in a box w/ anti noise foam surrounding them, in my case...... they still are easily the most noise thing in my case wish i could make them a bit more quite but don't want to sacrifice performance like having my pumps pushing at 1gpm. That said my pumps may be stuffed one seems to use 25% more amps than the other (10v 0.54A V 10v 0.78a) is that normal in a duel top setup?


----------



## Stens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> you also have to remember that not everybody has the same idea of audible. My computer is loud, but I don't notice it because I like to have a lot of ambient noise around me. So a D5 on max speed would be considered inaudible for my rig most likely. So he might just have a super quiet rig.


The purpose of going water cooling was to get control of temperatures and noise. I started that a couple of months ago when I still had GTX 580 SLI and my heat output was substantially higher than it is now. The goal was to not hear my computer from where I'm sitting. My computer is about 1 meter from my ears with the desk in between, which helps. I've almost reached that goal now. In other words, my computer is extremely silent, to the point where it's almost inaudible. I'm not saying that there's nothing wrong with my D5s, but I can hear them at settings 3 and above







.


----------



## 1rkrage

hrm.. decided I'm going to drain the system to find the leaks.

I bought some new parts to add to the system while doing so. (drain, 240 rad)

I think I'm going Clear tubing + Mayhems this time. I liked the bends of the Primoflex LRT red I got and would like to try the clear version. Anyone who bought recently from Performance-PCS got plasticizer on their Primoflex Clear?


----------



## axipher

I'm in need of some white tube and red anti-kink soon for my red and white Core 1000 build. Open for suggestions in Canada.


----------



## zer0signa1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> That's quite cool. Nice to see someone kind of progressing up the ladder, similarly to how I did but I started with a H50.
> On those T fittings you don't have any cable ties. The pipe was probably tight to get on but still, it maybe worth putting some on.
> Your res looks a little empty, do you have air bubbles running through your loop? I'd recommend filling to between half and 3/4 if possible.
> Are you still using the Thermaltake pump? I heard those things are known to be unreliable. Atleast you've got a nice CPU waterblock!
> You should fill in your system specs.


No, I did not use any cables ties on those T-Fittings A) they're extremely tight to get over "will probably have to cut off"







B) and changing them out this week for Y-Fittings "I will clamp them then". Yeah its a little low, I kinda wanted a flowing motion in the res "aesthetics". I tried to have it flow from the top when it was 90% filled but that kept forcing tons of air bubbles into the loop. So I lowered the level and tried with it just forcing the water up to create motion, and it has worked wonders. I have no air bubbles that i can see or notice.

Yeah that's a Thermaltake pump, using as temp for now till i can order my new pump for the 2 loop going into the Torture Rack. As a fail safe, I have my system set to immediately shutdown if temps are reached at 62C.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah me too. Started with the H50. Loved it and kind of miss it. But only cause I haven't completed my first loop. Damn near done though. At least until I need to cool the GPU and add moar.
> Love his CPU block. Though. To be quite honest I could have probably gotten to this stage quicker but I'd have spent moar to get less. What with upgrading of components an all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also it's kina become my schtick, to come here an update everyone on my ridiculously long meticulous journey to building my first loop on a beer budget with sparkling wine taste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Ceadder I have read you from the beginng of this thread, you have been slowly building this thing for sooo long! I cannot wait to see this system once its completed!







I'm sure its going to be amazing!


----------



## R4MP4G3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4MP4G3*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sleeved all the power supply cables and wrapped the pump cable around the pump.


Fot this build, what kind of lighting do you think would look best? Maybe just white cold cathodes or led?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> MAN, that build is so nice, it looks like mine so much.


haha, I thought that was your rig too until I saw the name of the member. Does really look nice


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm in need of some white tube and red anti-kink soon for my red and white Core 1000 build. Open for suggestions in Canada.


Try PrimoChill and DazMode.









Thanks everbody for being so patient. It's getting there. Promise.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4MP4G3*
> 
> Fot this build, what kind of lighting do you think would look best? Maybe just white cold cathodes or led?


Don't quote such a long post


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Don't quote such a long post


Agreed and please.

@ R4MP4G3

Tip: highlight the pics and use the "spoiler" button to hide the pics.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Well I better drop mine in here. Not quite finished, but almost.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if your backside looks this good... you have to show it off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo.... what ya think?


Do you have a build log?


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm in need of some white tube and red anti-kink soon for my red and white Core 1000 build. Open for suggestions in Canada.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try PrimoChill and DazMode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everbody for being so patient. It's getting there. Promise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


For PrimoChill, check out NCIX as they carry white tube (sold in a 10ft pack) and red anti-kink coils but they are 3/4in UV red. Daz carries TFC and XSPC tubing if you prefer that brand and his are sold by the ft but ends up same price as NCIX for 10ft.


----------



## TwentyCent

So guys I need your help. I am finally about to buy my first "custom" computer (actually all I've owned so far is a used laptop







), and since I am planning to watercool it in the near future, here is my situation: I would like to use the watercool 6850 block, because I like it's look and price. Now I need to find a 6850 that will accept it (wait, shouldn't it be the other way around?







)

Would that one do the trick? The watercool block is said to be compatible with ref 6850s, but AFAIK there were no ref 6850...
I'd be really grateful if you could help me out with this one?


----------



## wermad

http://coolingconfigurator.com/

just look up the models that are compatible with the EK 6850/6870 blocks and it should be the reference I believe. Which should be the same compatibility with HK.


----------



## prznar1

watercool have a half cover block for 6850 (only vrms are not going to be cooled, memory and gpu chip are) for a very decent price. it is near the price of universal blocks and it will work on that xfx 6850 from newegg that you have posted.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*


sate...what are your opinions about the parallel rads? good temps? did you try them in serial 1st?


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> sate...what are your opinions about the parallel rads? good temps? did you try them in serial 1st?


Sli_Shroom, this scheme will change from parallel to Serie, because I bought the box phobya rad, rad to put 3's 360mm, the temps in IDLE ARE 36 celsius and 44 celsius in Full! sorry for my english


----------



## axipher

Thanks for the recomendations on tubing guys, guess White Primochill it is


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks for the recomendations on tubing guys, guess White Primochill it is


I'm very pleased with mine


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> Sli_Shroom, this scheme will change from parallel to Serie, because I bought the box phobya rad, rad to put 3's 360mm, the temps in IDLE ARE 36 celsius and 44 celsius in Full! sorry for my english


Thx sate...so it sounds like you are expecting better temps from running them in serial. Please let us know what your temp differences end up being

And your english is a hell of alot better than my Portuguese


----------



## axipher

Anyone else have any recommendations for red-anti kink?

I'm running a little bit of a darker red, Milano Red to be specific so therefore the UV stuff that looks orange when there's no UV light is very low on my list.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> watercool have a half cover block for 6850 (only vrms are not going to be cooled, memory and gpu chip are) for a very decent price. it is near the price of universal blocks and it will work on that xfx 6850 from newegg that you have posted.


Thanks for the info man. I realize I was not specific, but that half cover block was the one in my scope. You sure it will fit?


----------



## ShortAlieN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> Do you have a build log?


Yeah, here ya go









Build Log


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *R4MP4G3*
> 
> Fot this build, what kind of lighting do you think would look best? Maybe just white cold cathodes or led?
> 
> 
> 
> Don't quote such a long post
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with Quoting long posts. But spoiler tags will dial it back a bit for people who don't like it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm in need of some white tube and red anti-kink soon for my red and white Core 1000 build. Open for suggestions in Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try PrimoChill and DazMode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everbody for being so patient. It's getting there. Promise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> For PrimoChill, check out NCIX as they carry white tube (sold in a 10ft pack) and red anti-kink coils but they are 3/4in UV red. Daz carries TFC and XSPC tubing if you prefer that brand and his are sold by the ft but ends up same price as NCIX for 10ft.
Click to expand...

Last I looked DazMode carried PC tubing. But since I'm not a regular like you HAF Envy, I defer to your wisdom.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks for the recomendations on tubing guys, guess White Primochill it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very pleased with mine
Click to expand...

I can't wait to get mine up and running.

White is so easy to get dirty though. So when setting up have a bit of silicon tape wrapped on the tubing about the same distance as the ring is long. That way you don't have to worry about it mucking up the tube.Tighten the ring and tear the tape off. Yeah it's a waste of silicon tape but stuff is extremely cheap by the roll. You'll leave a bit behind but just trim the frayed ends of the tape and nobody is the wiser. To remove the ring just add some more tape and back off the ring.









Got some great news in my PM box. Radiator has departed with the destination my door step. Now if only my "lost order" will get here in time. If I have to buy it again, someone's head will roll.









~Ceadder


----------



## randomnerd865

Quick question this thread seemed somewhat appropriate. I have an h80 and I'm replacing the stock fans and using it in my sig rig. I Cant decide how I should setup the fans. I currently have a gentle typhoon ap 15 for good pressure and then my "pretty fan" an enermax- http://www.amazon.com/APOLLISH-VEGAS-120mm-7-mode-Twister/dp/B003VSY0T0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1333514021&sr=8-6
NOW my question is can I successfully do Push with the enermax to show it off and pull with the ap 15 for good cfm or should I just use the ap 15 for push or pull??? Hopefully I can learn from this because Ive had this conflict for a while thank in advance OCN


----------



## ilocos boy

heres my new water cooling setup what u guy think...


----------



## wermad

^^^Nice 810 mate







. I like the orange color going on there


----------



## Tipless

thats some pretty paint scheme ojn your walls there


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4MP4G3*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *R4MP4G3*
> 
> Here are some pictures of my latest rig. I finished it the other day so I've been making some tweaks here and there before the photo shoot. It took me about a month to get everything done. Hope you enjoy it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....I'm not sure why some of the pics didn't rotate though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sleeved all the power supply cables and wrapped the pump cable around the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fot this build, what kind of lighting do you think would look best? Maybe just white cold cathodes or led?
Click to expand...

Modeler's Brand Double Density LED tape.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225922/modelers-brand-leds


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^Nice 810 mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I like the orange color going on there


You're color blind werm. That's Red not Orange.







lol

Although if that's a Gigabyte Board that certainly could be the Orange you're speaking of.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You're color blind werm. That's Red not Orange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Although if that's a Gigabyte Board that certainly could be the Orange you're speaking of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If its primochill, there red tube hardly looks red and under uv looks hot pink


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If its primochill, there red tube hardly looks red and under uv looks hot pink


lol that is if u can even get the tube to glow with UV. I had to set my cathode onto the tube just to see that it did indeed actually glow lol.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Thanks for the info man. I realize I was not specific, but that half cover block was the one in my scope. You sure it will fit?


It will. That xfx works fine with watercool halfcover block.


----------



## dean_8486

Silverstone FT02 Watercooled
Specs:

-2600k @ 5Ghz - EK Supreme HF
-ASRock Extreme 6 z77 Motherboard
-680 GTX Overclocked - EK Waterblock/Backplate
-16Gb Samsung Green 30nm DDR3 @1866Mhz 9-9-9-27 1N
-180x3 Magicool Rad
-D5 Pump


----------



## BZ1891

Added another 240mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator to bottom of case.







Idle midday system temps. Room temperature is around 21c.



A short video of Battlefield 3 MP with HD 6970 @950/1375 to demonstrate GPU temps. Further details in video description.



*Click on video to view*

Managed to overclock the CPU to 4.9GHz with HT enabled and did a quick prime small FFT run for maximum heat, might try for 5Ghz later when I am comfortable with 4.9Ghz and have some more time. All system fans at around 700 RPM, or well below for fans attached to controller. Ambient room temps were around 23c as it was a warmish day.



Finally, a noise test conducted while running above stress test.



*Click on video to view*


----------



## dean_8486

Some close-up shots


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Silverstone FT02 Watercooled
> Specs:
> -2600k @ 5Ghz - EK Supreme HF
> -ASRock Extreme 6 z77 Motherboard
> -680 GTX Overclocked - EK Waterblock/Backplate
> -16Gb Samsung Green 30nm DDR3 @1866Mhz 9-9-9-27 1N
> -180x3 Magicool Rad
> -D5 Pump






Nice work and nice score!! I'll be sticking my 540 rad in my RVO2 soon!


----------



## zer0signa1

^^^ Very nice!


----------



## ohcysp67

My water cooled 690II

sorry about the low quality crappy camera


----------



## ProfeZZor X

The Black Ice GT rad setup I have at the top rear of my case was interfering with the side panel closing, so in order to fix the problem I ended up cutting off the stupid flange that was preventing the upper part of the case from closing. Afterwards, I decided to cut off some of the support structure for the multiple HDD drive bays that I wouldn't use and freed up that space for optimal airflow from the front of the case. It's not the greatest craftsmanship, but it's effective enough to get as much airflow into this little Antec Eleven Hundred as possible. I originally wanted to use 3 Black Ice GT rads in my setup, but because of the space restrictions within and the location of the SATA connections on my R4E, it just isn't possible. And I definitely didn't want to go external. I may try fitting it in again before I finish this build and see if I can get away with some creative plumbing internally, but if not, I'm good with just the two rads and push pull configuration I have now. The only thing stopping me from closing this loop are the 90 degree angle Monsoon black chrome fittings that haven't been released yet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Some close-up shots
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! Wow, these 3x180mm rads are really popular


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BZ1891*
> 
> Added another 240mm radiator to bottom of case.
> 
> A short video of Battlefield 3 MP with HD 6970 @950/1375 to demonstrate GPU temps. Further details in video description.
> 
> [/center]


What voltage of 6970 if you dont mind me asking?


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> What voltage of 6970 if you dont mind me asking?


It's 1.19v


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Some close-up shots
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very sexy looking


----------



## solar0987

Decided to sell my hydro copper 580,ram.old pump top.I want dominator ram for the wb, and the mosfet wb still. Then a 570 and a waterblock.
Got my dual pump setup going







they always say 2 is bettter than 1. Also changed the tubing back to to white.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Decided to sell my hydro copper 580,ram.old pump top.I want dominator ram for the wb, and the mosfet wb still. Then a 570 and a waterblock.
> Got my dual pump setup going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they always say 2 is bettter than 1. Also changed the tubing back to to white.
> Snip*


missing a gpu you are


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> missing a gpu you are


He's got a Z68 board which has onboard video


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> He's got a Z68 board which has *onboard video*


sacrilege...this is ocn afterall


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> sacrilege...this is ocn afterall


Quick, someone donate a couple of Mars II


----------



## sli_shroom

friends dont let friends use onboard video


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> friends dont let friends use onboard video


Gosh, i haven't used onboard in ages


----------



## solar0987

Onboard is all i have atm







gonna havta make due with it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Onboard is all i have atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna havta make due with it.


At least you have it. Those with only a single gpu and no board are sol if the gpu fails


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> At least you have it. Those with only a single gpu and no board are sol if the gpu fails


saying that like you only have one gpu


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> sacrilege...this is ocn afterall
> 
> 
> 
> Quick, someone donate a couple of Mars II
Click to expand...

Send them c/o Ceadderman.









I'll make sure he gets a 5770 so people should be happy that he's got a GPU with his water cooled Rig.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> saying that like you only have one gpu











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Send them c/o Ceadderman.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make sure he gets a 5770 so people should be happy that he's got a GPU with his water cooled Rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ceadderman liking Nvidia


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> At least you have it. Those with only a single gpu and no board are sol if the gpu fails


Yea...like you are ever going to have that problem. If you had to resort to onboard, you would try to find a way to chain a couple of them together


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> At least you have it. Those with only a single gpu and no board are sol if the gpu fails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea...like you are ever going to have that problem. If you had to resort to onboard, you would try to find a way to chain a couple of them together
Click to expand...

Naaaaaaa, he'd just train his hamsters to run marathons and then leash them to his dead GPU creating static electricity and powering his cards.









No, still hate NVidia. Love to have dual GPU though. For that I could live with PNY if I had to.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Got some new parts in.











Coolant is distilled + Mayhem's UV Clear/Blue + Mayhem's Deep Purple



The EX420 up top.



Dark shot with UV lighting.


----------



## Dredknot

Updated my rig...Again lol. Finally done. Had an issue with pressure and a leak because i forgot to add a oring onto one of my compression fittings but it turned out nicely. Rerouted how my tubing went so my cpu is cooled by the 360 rad and dropped my temps about 6c. Gonna have to order a white cathode to put in the res but for now im happy with it. Let me know what u think!
















And this is what i get for ordering primochill LRT tubing....


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> And this is what i get for ordering primochill LRT tubing....


What is it? The picture is focusing to your killer







blade on the sink


----------



## charlievoviii




----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> What is it? The picture is focusing to your killer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> blade on the sink


Bad plasticizer on primochill tubing. Ive been plagued with it on my 20ft roll i ordered


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> What is it? The picture is focusing to your killer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> blade on the sink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad plasticizer on primochill tubing. Ive been plagued with it on my 20ft roll i ordered
Click to expand...

Are you using a Biocide or Silver Coil? PrimoChill LRT has one of these embedded(I believe it's pretreated with a BioCide) in the compound they use to make the tubing. It may be that whatever you're using is having a chemical reaction with the chemical compound they use.

You should(if you haven't already) check in the Plasticizer thread. And it's not just PrimoChill that is affected like this. I don't know how old or how you flushed your Radiator but someone there found a relation to Flux causing this too. Anyway check out the thread if you need a link, I'm sure someone will have it.









Your system looks awesome btw.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Hmm i was using dead water only 1 drop of it. Maybe that was the cause.


----------



## rkwallace

This by far is the best looking rig I've see to date. I started at page #1 and now is on page 1702 and nothing beats your system.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rkwallace*
> 
> This by far is the best looking rig I've see to date. I started at page #1 and now is on page 1702 and nothing beats your system.


Were you talking to any1 in particular?


----------



## khemist

My RV02-EW with new 680 block installed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Why didn't you just 180 the Radiator and connect to it at the front instead of creating another restriction point?









Woulda saved you a little hose in the process and look much cleaner imho. Still looks great, just an honest critique.









~Ceadder


----------



## Eyedea

Loving that Mayhems yellow Khemist. Looks nice enough to drink.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> My RV02-EW with new 680 block installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ggggggggggggoooooooooddddddddddddddddddddddddd, I should have gone yellow pastel from the beginning







. Still looking for a decent clear tube that won't crap out like Primochill.

Awesome rig mate


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> My RV02-EW with new 680 block installed.


Looks good man


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Had time before my flight. Here are the results. It's definitely a reaction with the nickel (every EK product I've had is great, so I'm not trying to find an opportunity to bash):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


For honesty in reporting purposes, I want to share that my EK nickle 7970 water-block did NOT have a problem with the plating. I used some polish and the grime came right off. According to Ice Dragon, it seems like the nano-particles obey the "Law of the Wall", and it's an inevitable effect of the fluid. Not an issue if you always have their opaque liquid flowing through your system.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> For honesty in reporting purposes, I want to share that my EK nickle 7970 water-block did NOT have a problem with the plating. I used some polish and the grime came right off. According to Ice Dragon, it seems like the nano-particles obey the "Law of the Wall", and it's an inevitable effect of the fluid. Not an issue if you always have their opaque liquid flowing through your system.


how does the law of the wall affect nickel plating though? i though the law of the wall had to do with turbulence close to a "wall".


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> how does the law of the wall affect nickel plating though? i though the law of the wall had to do with turbulence close to a "wall".


it's imperfections in the material. a little lip will gather particles -- doesn't matter if it's nickle or copper.


----------



## wermad

Damn, I bought the the old pcb design of the Lamptron FC2. I can't return it since I already made some mods to it. Its got the dreaded whine. I checked my fans with the old controller, which I've decided to keep and just add a few small fans to keep it cool.

edit: this cheered me up though


----------



## Ceadderman

That is SOOOOOOOOOO messed up it's not even funny bro.









But of course I laugh so...









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, I bought the the old pcb design of the Lamptron FC2. I can't return it since I already made some mods to it. Its got the dreaded whine. I checked my fans with the old controller, which I've decided to keep and just add a few small fans to keep it cool.
> edit: this cheered me up though


i heard somewhere that applying a lacquer to the PCB will get rid of the whine... dont ask me thats just what heard


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> it's imperfections in the material. a little lip will gather particles -- doesn't matter if it's nickle or copper.


ahh ok, thanks for the info


----------



## fuadm424

Finishing up my setup in a Corsair 400r. Really impressed with how it's looking, being my first time and all.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, I bought the the old pcb design of the Lamptron FC2. I can't return it since I already made some mods to it. Its got the dreaded whine. I checked my fans with the old controller, which I've decided to keep and just add a few small fans to keep it cool.
> edit: this cheered me up though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Damn that's eerie. :p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i heard somewhere that applying a lacquer to the PCB will get rid of the whine... dont ask me thats just what heard
Click to expand...

Try a little hair spray and let dry. At worst it fails but doesn't impact whether or not the Controller works. Make sure to fire it up OUTSIDE your system for that JiC moment.









~Ceadder


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> Finishing up my setup in a Corsair 400r. Really impressed with how it's looking, being my first time and all.


why the lone barb when you have those nice compressions?


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> why the lone barb when you have those nice compressions?


+1

so wierd that its the only one.

"im so lonely.... oh so lonely... i have nobody... to call my own..."

think i got that right


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> why the lone barb when you have those nice compressions?


The EVGA backplate interfered with Monsoon fittings, So for now Im using some barbs I had laying around. 7mm extensions have been ordered to alleviate this


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> i heard somewhere that applying a lacquer to the PCB will get rid of the whine... dont ask me thats just what heard


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try a little hair spray and let dry. At worst it fails but doesn't impact whether or not the Controller works. Make sure to fire it up OUTSIDE your system for that JiC moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Interesting but I decided to go back to my Scythe for now. I used the housing of the Lamptron to makeshift a bracket for two 40mm fans that will cool the Scythe. I've also relocated it below the Booster so it doesn't heat up the acrylic case panels. What a pos







and $25 down the toilet. I've heard these FC2s where bad but I took the risk. Lesson learned







. I'm going to contact Scythe and they may rma mine or something.

edit: I left swc.com positive feedback on ebay since it really wasn't their fault and this was noted as clearance w/ no returns







.

Interesting placement of your Scythe Kase Master Pro:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> Finishing up my setup in a Corsair 400r. Really impressed with how it's looking, being my first time and all.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> For honesty in reporting purposes, I want to share that my EK nickle 7970 water-block did NOT have a problem with the plating. I used some polish and the grime came right off. According to Ice Dragon, it seems like the nano-particles obey the "Law of the Wall", and it's an inevitable effect of the fluid. Not an issue if you always have their opaque liquid flowing through your system.










I was expecting a full recovery. There is no issue w/ copper though. At least not from my experience.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> Finishing up my setup in a Corsair 400r. Really impressed with how it's looking, being my first time and all.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice build but have to ask does everyone on this thread own great cameras and have mad photography skills lol







or is it just me lol


----------



## prznar1

I think i saw a tutorial about making pics of your rig


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> nice build but have to ask does everyone on this thread own great cameras and have mad photography skills lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or is it just me lol




I have an average camera and zero skills


----------



## thfallen

I will post better ones in the morning when i have some lights.


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> Finishing up my setup in a Corsair 400r. Really impressed with how it's looking, being my first time and all.


I see 3 barbs but after a later post undstand why.

"Damn you Back Plate, Damn you to Hell!!"


----------



## zer0signa1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why didn't you just 180 the Radiator and connect to it at the front instead of creating another restriction point?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woulda saved you a little hose in the process and look much cleaner imho. Still looks great, just an honest critique.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If he did that wouldn't he still have to run the in-line all the way across the case to the CPU...? so he will still have to run that distance, but might be able to lose the 90...










I mean, it might look slick if he did turn the rad 180, and then turn the IN on the cpu block 90 degrees, and made an L coming out of the rad ---> cpu "routing under GPU"...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> For honesty in reporting purposes, I want to share that my EK nickle 7970 water-block did NOT have a problem with the plating. I used some polish and the grime came right off. According to Ice Dragon, it seems like the nano-particles obey the "Law of the Wall", and it's an inevitable effect of the fluid. Not an issue if you always have their opaque liquid flowing through your system.


Thanks for confirming my diagnosis,the EK hate clouds rational thought nowadays.....


----------



## Dredknot

Youtube video of my setup. Mass Effect 3 Nvidia surround.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo08dxgcDn8


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> nice build but have to ask does everyone on this thread own great cameras and have mad photography skills lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or is it just me lol


I used my iPhone. Lighting is very important, no matter what camera you use, especially for crappy cameras!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zer0signa1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why didn't you just 180 the Radiator and connect to it at the front instead of creating another restriction point?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woulda saved you a little hose in the process and look much cleaner imho. Still looks great, just an honest critique.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If he did that wouldn't he still have to run the in-line all the way across the case to the CPU...? so he will still have to run that distance, but might be able to lose the 90...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean, it might look slick if he did turn the rad 180, and then turn the IN on the cpu block 90 degrees, and made an L coming out of the rad ---> cpu "routing under GPU"...
Click to expand...




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Actually if you go back and check out his setup you'll find that no flow will be harmed in this setup *and* the flow at the CPU fitting would go around GPU not under or through. Shaves about 8 to 10 inches of tubing and there is no change in flow.









~Ceadder


----------



## kieran13

here is my new rig only got one UV cathod in atm the other one was broken lol so have to wait for replacement


----------



## fuadm424

Build complete!!! Not bad for my first PC build











Radiator placement was a pain. Had to use velcro since I'll need to take out the rad every time I need to remove the GPU cards.


Here's my mini-valve for draining.


----------



## Ranger_XP

The Rog CHV Black and Red motif. 4 red Led's make this pop at night - HD Kobra sleaving, and XSPC/Bitspower all around.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ggggggggggggoooooooooddddddddddddddddddddddddd, I should have gone yellow pastel from the beginning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still looking for a decent clear tube that won't crap out like Primochill.
> Awesome rig mate


Yeah, although i went for masterkleer yellow tubing this time as it's almost the same colour as the mayhems... always annoying when clear tubing gets cloudy at some point.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks for confirming my diagnosis,the EK hate clouds rational thought nowadays.....


...our diagnosis. i will share but i believe i had the thought first... lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Yeah, although i went for masterkleer yellow tubing this time as it's almost the same colour as the mayhems... always annoying when clear tubing gets cloudy at some point.


From the "plasticizing" thread, a couple of members have used MasterKleer with no immediate clouding. The Mayhems rep also mentioned they use Masterkleer and it holds for a long while. Tygon beverage clear was recommended but a member bought some and found that immediately it went to a yellowish tint on the tube. Apparently someone had highly recommended the Tygon beverage clear tube and so that member bought some as a test and it ended up going yellow. Which is weird. I had tried some clear tube from the local hardware store and it held quite well. Better than the Primochill. i bought another roll thinking it would last the same and it didn't. I'm running black cheap stuff but I want to try Mayhems yellow or blue pastel and clear tube. Thanks for the input. I'll start looking for some Masterkleer as cheap as possible so its not a huge loss if it goes.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From the "plasticizing" thread, a couple of members have used MasterKleer with no immediate clouding. The Mayhems rep also mentioned they use Masterkleer and it holds for a long while. Tygon beverage clear was recommended but a member bought some and found that immediately it went to a yellowish tint on the tube. Apparently someone had highly recommended the Tygon beverage clear tube and so that member bought some as a test and it ended up going yellow. Which is weird. I had tried some clear tube from the local hardware store and it held quite well. Better than the Primochill. i bought another roll thinking it would last the same and it didn't. I'm running black cheap stuff but I want to try Mayhems yellow or blue pastel and clear tube. Thanks for the input. I'll start looking for some Masterkleer as cheap as possible so its not a huge loss if it goes.


I've been testing some Primochill clear tubing for 2 weeks now with no plasticizing issues. I VERY THOROUGHLY flushed all of my components with vinegar and distilled water before I started the test though and am not using PT Nuke or anything of the like. I have use Primochill before without flushing components and got plasticizing very quickly so I think radiator flux/other things stuck in components or PT Nuke may be causing the "plasticizing" issues...


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranger_XP*


Looks like it's time to wash/vacuum the front filter









*EDIT:* By the way, you *should* be able to get that 8-pin behind your motherboard. I have the same PSU and case as you do, and my 8-pin is in a similar spot on my motherboard. It'd really clean things up if you snuck it around.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranger_XP*
> 
> The Rog CHV Black and Red motif. 4 red Led's make this pop at night - HD Kobra sleaving, and XSPC/Bitspower all around.


Looks good Ranger. Acetone will remove the writing from the tubes.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I finally figured out how to incorporate that third radiator in my build. Since I'm only using two HDD's (plus my SDD for booting), I went to town with my Dremel and cut out most of the over-engineered hard drive structure down below and will connect both rads. If anything, I'm surprised how well the intake fan in front of the case connected to the rad from such a ghetto cutting job. I really wanted to stack them to give my plumbing a unique look, but due to space constraints inside this mid tower case, that just wasn't possible... Guess I'll find out how efficient this rad to rad setup is at cooling soon enough, especially with the way the fans are situated.

Any and all comments and suggestions are always welcomed and appreciated.


----------



## wermad

I'm back to my Scythe controller and its heating the Booster. Enough that the booster's thermal sensor kicks on the fans when the whole system is idle. I just feel that the Scythe is overwhelmed with 24 fans..

Any suggestions for a fan controller?

I need six or more channels preferably with +20 watts per channel, under $50 usd and 0-100% voltage control.

+rep for good suggestions


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm back to my Scythe controller and its heating the Booster. Enough that the booster's thermal sensor kicks on the fans when the whole system is idle. I just feel that the Scythe is overwhelmed with 24 fans..
> 
> Any suggestions for a fan controller?
> 
> I need six or more channels preferably with +20 watts per channel, under $50 usd and 0-100% voltage control.
> 
> +rep for good suggestions


Sunbeam RheoSmart 6 channel for $34 from the egg...

Sunbeam PL-RS-6 Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller 5.25" Bay 6 Channel 30W Fan Controller Panel (Black)

Up to 30w per channel

You really will like it.










Spoiler: Gearing up for water...








Now if only my 3 connectors and 3pin x3 fan Y splitter will show up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sunbeam RheoSmart 6 channel for $34 from the egg...
> Sunbeam PL-RS-6 Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller 5.25" Bay 6 Channel 30W Fan Controller Panel (Black)
> Up to 30w per channel
> You really will like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Gearing up for water...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only my 3 connectors and 3pin x3 fan Y splitter will show up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


+1 to this. from everything i have heard it is the one to go with


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sunbeam RheoSmart 6 channel for $34 from the egg...
> Sunbeam PL-RS-6 Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller 5.25" Bay 6 Channel 30W Fan Controller Panel (Black)
> Up to 30w per channel
> You really will like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Gearing up for water...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only my 3 connectors and 3pin x3 fan Y splitter will show up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Isn't that an older design? Looking at the massive heatsinks on the back tells me it heats up a bit.

I'm liking the Akasa FC Six. Are G-Vans rebranded Lamptrons? Or is G-Vans Lamptrons new name? Sounds like "Ghetto Van" shoes


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sunbeam RheoSmart 6 channel for $34 from the egg...
> Sunbeam PL-RS-6 Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller 5.25" Bay 6 Channel 30W Fan Controller Panel (Black)
> Up to 30w per channel
> You really will like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Gearing up for water...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only my 3 connectors and 3pin x3 fan Y splitter will show up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't that an older design? Looking at the massive heatsinks on the back tells me it heats up a bit.
> 
> I'm liking the Akasa FC Six. Are G-Vans rebranded Lamptrons? Or is G-Vans Lamptrons new name? Sounds like "Ghetto Van" shoes
Click to expand...

Not sure it's an older design or not but all the good Fan Controllers I know of have good solid Heatsinks. You should check out Martin's Liquid Labratory for a review. I know Martin has done one but I don't have the link handy.









GVans is a disgruntled Employee who has a storage or warehouse full of Lamptron gear or got a few of their builders to build based off "his"(not sure whose really) designs that Lamptron "never paid him for" apparently it's still in litigation in the Chinese legal system and they haven't told him to cease production and sales. Haven't heard anything for a few months now.









I wouldn't trust em though.









~Ceadder


----------



## tippy25

I'm going to also recommend the Sunbeam Rheosmart 6. I'm running one on my system and it's awesome. Build quality is great. And it has a PWM control option that varies the voltage based on the PWM signal, which effectively turns any 3-pin fan into a PWM fan. It's not true PWM, but the effect should be the same.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Isn't that an older design? Looking at the massive heatsinks on the back tells me it heats up a bit.
> I'm liking the Akasa FC Six. Are G-Vans rebranded Lamptrons? Or is G-Vans Lamptrons new name? Sounds like "Ghetto Van" shoes


i remember reading a post here not too long ago about g vans. iirc an ex lamptron employee left and took the designs. then he started using the designs to have his own brand manufactured using cheaper parts/methods. the end result was a cheaply made ripoff that looked just like the lamptron products at 1st glance.

the problem arose when peeps started receiving g-vans stuff when they had ordered and paid for lamptron stuff.

im not sure if it ever got worked out.

edit...found the thread... http://www.overclock.net/t/1195612/official-statement-regarding-g-vans-knock-off-controllers-products/0_100


----------



## wermad

Thought you meant this guy (newegg is blocked on my work pc







):

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/sb-rheobus-extreme-bk_01.jpg

I like the specs of the Sunbeamtech linked by Ceadderman but I don't like the mesh look.

Here's the Akasa:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=32171



Edit: here's a mini review from an ocn member:

http://www.overclock.net/products/akasa-fc-six-fan-controller/reviews


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thought you meant this guy (newegg is blocked on my work pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/sb-rheobus-extreme-bk_01.jpg
> 
> I like the specs of the Sunbeamtech linked by Ceadderman but I don't like the mesh look.
> 
> Here's the Akasa:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=32171
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: here's a mini review from an ocn member:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/products/akasa-fc-six-fan-controller/reviews


I have the 3.5 model and have it backed into the Bay so I could put the stock Bay cover over it. You can't even tell it's there unless you're looking for it bro. The 5.25 model is shorter than my 3.5 and Bay Adapter the 932 came with. You should have no problems hiding it. Heck you could even install it so that the knobs are dealt with internally. The Sunbeam Badge isn't pre applied either so you don't have to advert for them either.









The Akasa is okay I guess, but I wouldn't steer you to junk.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm back to my Scythe controller and its heating the Booster. Enough that the booster's thermal sensor kicks on the fans when the whole system is idle. I just feel that the Scythe is overwhelmed with 24 fans..
> Any suggestions for a fan controller?
> I need six or more channels preferably with +20 watts per channel, under $50 usd and 0-100% voltage control.
> +rep for good suggestions


I was going to say Sentry Mix, but you and your 0-100%







I can't hear my fans with it set to the lowest, but maybe that's just me.


----------



## PhatFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charlievoviii*


that is heart stoping, i love it so much


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I was going to say Sentry Mix, but you and your 0-100%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't hear my fans with it set to the lowest, but maybe that's just me.


My R4s can be dropped to about 1-2V and when you have 20 of them plus four 80mm fans, its crucial for for me







. So, 0-100% voltage control is a must


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I was going to say Sentry Mix, but you and your 0-100%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't hear my fans with it set to the lowest, but maybe that's just me.
> 
> 
> 
> My R4s can be dropped to about 1-2V and when you have 20 of them plus four 80mm fans, its crucial for for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So, 0-100% voltage control is a must
Click to expand...

You do realize that the lower voltage you run your fans the more load is built up in the Controller and the more load the more heat?









I think the lowest my Controller goes is 30% though. If I go lower the fans are off. But 30% even with 20 R4s' should be a reasonable dB level. At least livable.









~Ceadder


----------



## Castscythe

well, i hope im eligible O.O

i just put the purple death back together today, and it will be seeing some extensive updates over the next few weeks. 

this is my first WC rig, and i can now say im rather addicted. it was a blast to put together, and the parts used are as follows
1. XSPC Rasa CPU block
2. XSPC RX240 rad w/ 2x scythe slipstream fans currently unmanaged
3. XSPC 750 res/pump combo (i read many reviews about this combo, and i heard about many pump issues... i guess i got lucky, my pump is wisper silent. )
4. the rest of the RX240 kit









this build will definately be seeing some upgrades over the next few weeks, starting with some cathodes to show the Feser UV purple coolant among other things.


----------



## zer0signa1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually if you go back and check out his setup you'll find that no flow will be harmed in this setup *and* the flow at the CPU fitting would go around GPU not under or through. Shaves about 8 to 10 inches of tubing and there is no change in flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dang, depth perception sucks in pictures.... You're right... :


----------



## MrG pc

He guy's,
My rig is finally starting to look good.
I'll be adding a radiator at the bottom later.
Please give me you opinions.
Thanks.


----------



## matan11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> Build complete!!! Not bad for my first PC build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator placement was a pain. Had to use velcro since I'll need to take out the rad every time I need to remove the GPU cards.
> 
> Here's my mini-valve for draining.


What size of tubing did you use?

nice work btw


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/sb-rheobus-extreme-bk_01.jpg
> 
> I like the specs of the Sunbeamtech linked by Ceadderman but I don't like the mesh look.


I have the Rheobus for Lian Li from PPC's. All it is a drive bay cover cut and drilled to fit the controller. I like the dual controls on it a lot. It does under volt a little at 100%. My GT-15's max out at 1685 rpm's on it running push/pull on a RX360. When using the smart function they range from 1358-1685 rpms. I wish there was more range on it, my pump really needs under volted a lot before it slows down to a level that doesn't bother me. The heat sinks do get hot in my rig, but there is zero air movement where it is mounted on my case so I do plan on mounting a very low rpm fan above it just to be safe. The LED's are green on manual and red on Smart control if it matters to you.



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=52_87_137&products_id=30768


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> What size of tubing did you use?
> nice work btw


3/8-5/8 Primochill tubing. Personally I thing it looks the best, and the thicker walls help prevent kinks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You do realize that the lower voltage you run your fans the more load is built up in the Controller and the more load the more heat?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the lowest my Controller goes is 30% though. If I go lower the fans are off. But 30% even with 20 R4s' should be a reasonable dB level. At least livable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm guessing its too many fans for the one controller. My old medium Yates wouldn't go past 40-50% or they shut down. The R4s can go that low. And I've tried my laser thermometer and it shows higher on full voltage, and slightly cool on low voltage. Either way, its hotter than before. Never had this issue with the 20 or so yates. You also have to take into consideration at lower voltage and thus lower speed, there's a lower air flow through the case and heat disapates slower than on full blast where the flow can cool the controller better. Still, I've would prefer knob 0-100% control. I like the Mix but its only minimum 40% and there's been "mixed" reviews about the NZXT controllers. The Sunbeamtech seems good but I don't like the style. Decided on the Akaza; crossing fingers


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

I thought I'd share some more pictures with you, since that is what it's all about









Here you go!











Waiting for a package from Nils to arrive, for the project to continue.

Have a nice Easter everyone!

/NwP


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrG pc*
> 
> He guy's,
> My rig is finally starting to look good.
> I'll be adding a radiator at the bottom later.
> Please give me you opinions.
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Photos


Looks really nice. I have the same case and I have been thinking about doing a similar configuration. Is you pump just resting on the PSU or is it secured to something?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> I thought I'd share some more pictures with you, since that is what it's all about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you go!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for a package from Nils to arrive, for the project to continue.
> 
> Have a nice Easter everyone!
> 
> /NwP


You gonna be sleeving your tubing?









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You gonna be sleeving your tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I've seen it happen







I think it looks really sharp.


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You gonna be sleeving your tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nope, sleeving power, fan and sata cables etc.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I've seen it happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it looks really sharp.


Yep, if executed properly it looks good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You gonna be sleeving your tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen it happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it looks really sharp.
Click to expand...

I know, that's why I'm asking.









~Ceadder


----------



## Iraqvet47




----------



## Tbenni88

Pretty much done... Some minor cable straightening to do..
modded 600t SE White
240rad plan on adding a 200mm for when i cool the 7970s..


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm back to my Scythe controller and its heating the Booster. Enough that the booster's thermal sensor kicks on the fans when the whole system is idle. I just feel that the Scythe is overwhelmed with 24 fans..
> Any suggestions for a fan controller?
> I need six or more channels preferably with +20 watts per channel, under $50 usd and 0-100% voltage control.
> +rep for good suggestions


If you dont mind the price I would suggest the Lamptron FC-8.


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tbenni88*
> 
> Pretty much done... Some minor cable straightening to do..
> modded 600t SE White
> 240rad plan on adding a 200mm for when i cool the 7970s..


----------



## Nemesis429

Looks good, can i see a full shot of your case and what size tubing are you using?

Cheers


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> If you dont mind the price I would suggest the Lamptron FC-8.


Thanks but I already ordered the Akasa. And with that whole G-Vans knock-off take over, I'm not risking it again with another Lamptron/G-Vans.


----------



## Tbenni88

some more shots...
Used the 1/2 x 3/4 monsoon compression
with same size white primochill tubing


----------



## Nemesis429

Looks very nice.


----------



## ohcysp67

inside shot of my 690II after updating to a d5 pump


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tbenni88*
> 
> some more shots...
> Used the 1/2 x 3/4 monsoon compression
> with same size white primochill tubing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's some damn sexy cable management and plexi work.


----------



## kazenagi

New camera to play with







everything would've been filled up and running but the pump died, have to wait till after the holiday to get a new one sadly. All the tubing's used too so that'll give me a chance to go to Home Depot and get some replacement real quick.. the two 90* elbows there connecting two short used pieces would probably cut down on some much needed flow..one pump, 4 blocks and a mora 3 no problem. Have a Koolance quick disconnect pcie bracket for the mora3 so the tube through the actual slot is temporary.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*


Needs one of these:


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> New camera to play with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> everything would've been filled up and running but the pump died, have to wait till after the holiday to get a new one sadly. All the tubing's used too so that'll give me a chance to go to Home Depot and get some replacement real quick.. the two 90* elbows there connecting two short used pieces would probably cut down on some much needed flow..one pump, 4 blocks and a mora 3 no problem. *Have a Koolance quick disconnect pcie bracket for the mora3 so the tube through the actual slot is temporary.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needs one of these:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


----------



## 4Yub1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tbenni88*
> 
> some more shots...
> Used the 1/2 x 3/4 monsoon compression
> with same size white primochill tubing


look so cool bro


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tbenni88*
> 
> some more shots...
> Used the 1/2 x 3/4 monsoon compression
> with same size white primochill tubing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful rig you have there. I love the monsoons. I have two of them in my loop and love the way they look. going to finish of the loop with them.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tbenni88*
> 
> some more shots...
> Used the 1/2 x 3/4 monsoon compression
> with same size white primochill tubing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats rig is just straight sex. I love everything about it. Very Very nice job


----------



## superericla

I thought my temps were a bit high for my CPU + GPU loop with a 420 and 240 radiator so I lapped my CPU. Temps dropped around 5C


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I thought my temps were a bit high for my CPU + GPU loop with a 420 and 240 radiator so I lapped my CPU. Temps dropped around 5C


I've thought about lapping my CPU, but have never done it before and don't want to ruin it. I've seen a few youtube videos doing it and it looks fairly simple if you're careful.


----------



## lowfat

Lapping is rather easy. Especially if you are familar w/ wet sanding. I did it to one of my old i7 920s. I will admit the bare copper looked awesome. However I never found it helped w/ temps at all.


----------



## OverClocker55

I just got this

What do I need to get my cpu under water too? can you tell me what rad and pump/res I need? It needs to fit in the corsiar 650D and I can mount it outside of case on a bracket if needed


----------



## MR-e

That's strange, I lapped my Q6600 and Q9650 as well as the cpu cooler base and saw temps drop 7 degrees on my old systems. it's a tedious job and took me hours to do, but I do say it's worth it if you have the time.


----------



## OverClocker55

What fittings and tubes do I need for these


----------



## Fuganater

1/2" barbs and 7/16" ID tubing


----------



## lowfat

3/8 barbs 3/8 tubing


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 3/8 barbs 3/8 tubing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 1/2" barbs and 7/16" ID tubing


which lol. different answers.


----------



## TwentyCent

Whichever you prefer. When using barbs rather than compression fittings, people tend to go with bigger barbs than the tubing ID to make sure it's perfectly sealed. When going with compression fittings, you should use the size matching your tubing ID and OD. I don't want to be an ass, but it seems you may need to read around a bit to get the watercooling basics...


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Whichever you prefer. When using barbs rather than compression fittings, people tend to go with bigger barbs than the tubing ID to make sure it's perfectly sealed. When going with compression fittings, you should use the size matching your tubing ID and OD. I don't want to be an ass, but it seems you may need to read around a bit to get the watercooling basics...


kk


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Yeah, for barbs you will want to go one size smaller for a good fit.

Your cart seems overly expensive though if you also want to get a CPU block. I'd suggest a XSPC kit. There are a few different options depending on what you want to do/spend. With a CPU and VGA block you'll be at the limits of the pump with the weaker kits but it should still work. And the kits will come with all the fittings and hose you'll need. Only things you'd need in addition for the VGA block are the block itself, 2 barbs, and maybe another radiator depending on which kit you get.

I think the kits are good for people who are just starting to get into water cooling.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Lapping is rather easy. Especially if you are familar w/ wet sanding. I did it to one of my old i7 920s. I will admit the bare copper looked awesome. However I never found it helped w/ temps at all.


You don't necessarily have to wet sand it to lap the CPU. The whole point is to get rid of the convex/concave shape of the CPU/heatsink. All I did was tape various grits of sandpaper to a flat surface and slide the CPU across the sandpaper, slowly increasing grit, until it was completely flat.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Lapping is rather easy. Especially if you are familar w/ wet sanding. I did it to one of my old i7 920s. I will admit the bare copper looked awesome. However I never found it helped w/ temps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> You don't necessarily have to wet sand it to lap the CPU. The whole point is to get rid of the convex/concave shape of the CPU/heatsink. All I did was tape various grits of sandpaper to a flat surface and slide the CPU across the sandpaper, slowly increasing grit, until it was completely flat.
Click to expand...

Yuppers! This.









If you've lapped your CPU and seen no difference from b4 to after, it's most likely due to the CPU already being flat. My 955 BE had a pretty big dome on it though. So I had a b4 an after of ~15c drop in temps.

Before doing a lapping, you'll want to do a blade test to see if you need to do the lapping. Get a razor blade and use a source of light behind it to see if there is any light showing between the edge and the CPU...










@OverClocker55... Stick with what you have in cart and go with a reasonable set of comps either Enzotech, XSPC or Phobya. Before you make your order though stop in at Home Depot or Lowes and compare tubing sizes. 3/8"ID or 1/2"ID. 1/2"ID comes in two OD of 5/8" and 3/4"OD. The reason I say to compare is that it'll help you determine what you want to do 1/2"x5/8" is thin wall tubing. Great for taking up less space than the 1/2"x3/4" but will kink easier imho. There really is no difference between 3/8" and 1/2" in terms of cooling unless you have a higher flowing CPU block like the HF series CPU block. I apologize if I'm not entirely clear on this point, but besically one the loop has heated up to operating temp they run about the same.

Comps are better but they cost more. They certainly look better unless you have the cleanest cuts in the world. I never can seem to get a straight cut. Not that my cuts aren't straight, they are straight. I just can't seem to get them ruler straight. I've even set my tubing in a vice and cut along the edge of the vice as straight as I can. When I pull out the tubing it's slightly angled.







lol

Anyway, you've got everything you need there other than fittings tubing and CPU block. I'm going to assume you already have the CPU block or you are only thinking of GPU at this time?









~Ceadder


----------



## ROG1

wow nice job bro...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> wow nice job bro...










That wasn't even a finished lapping.

It's been finished for awhile now but...










And compared to unused EK Supreme HF block...










Hopefully that's gonna get used soon.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> What fittings and tubes do I need for these


-Barbs are cheaper. You can run a slightly smaller tube id (inner diameter) to make a tighter seal but it will be a pita to remove. Most run the same id as the barb size and use clamps. There are quite a few different styles of clamps; some are just worm style, nylon "clicky", and fancy aluminum clamps.

-Compression fittings are more expensive but they provide a single solution for securing your tube. As others have noted, you need to match the exact id and od of the tube. For example: I run 3/8x1/2 so my compression fittings are Phobya 3/8x1/2. There's lots of options for compression fittings. These can range from simple knurled and on the low end of the price spectrum to fancy painted and designed fittings. Monsoon makes some really interesting ones as they provide a excellent blend of form and function. Bitspower makes the fancy ones in many colors and fittings options. Enzotech makes a good selection of fittings liek Bitspower but they don't have many styles. Koolance has a bunch of styles and some unique designs but usually they only offer them in dark-gray/gunmetal color. There's other makes like xspc and phobya; both have really good prices but they have some limited selections and/or sizes. I have Phobya as I mentioned, though they don't have the best finish, its still really good and the prices are great since I needed quite a few fittings.

For tube; look for the wall thickness ((od -id) / 2). Thick wall tube like 1/2x3/4 is robust and allows for tight bends. Thinner walls like 3/8x1/2 don't bend that well but its easy to work with as its not stiff. If you have any more questions feel free to ask here or start your own thread in the water section.


----------



## mybadomen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That wasn't even a finished lapping.
> It's been finished for awhile now but...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And compared to unused EK Supreme HF block...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully that's gonna get used soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Very Nice !


----------



## Upgraydd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> What fittings and tubes do I need for these


If you can afford it Quick Disconnect fittings from Koolance. I ordered some today and i cant wait to put them in.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Upgraydd*
> 
> If you can afford it Quick Disconnect fittings from Koolance. I ordered some today and i cant wait to put them in.


kk


----------



## Triangle

OverClocker55, I'm not sure, but the link in my sig might be of slight help. Maybe not.


----------



## kkorky

Update of my rig which was initially posted a couple of months ago, still room for improvement, but for a HAF 922, its not bad imho. (excuse the visible cables-i forgot to tidy them up







)


----------



## Triangle

Not that big of a fan of light shows, but I'm liking that.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> OverClocker55, I'm not sure, but the link in my sig might be of slight help. Maybe not.


thanks il take a look at it


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> Not that big of a fan of light shows, but I'm liking that.


Lol! Thank you, actually the led strip is connected to my fan controller, so i can turn it on or off at will-i just included the 'Light show' photo as an alternative look-ofc most times the lights are turned off


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> thanks il take a look at it


Hope it gives something...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Lol! Thank you, actually the led strip is connected to my fan controller, so i can turn it on or off at will-i just included the 'Light show' photo as an alternative look-ofc most times the lights are turned off


----------



## thfallen

its nice. i like it.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thfallen*
> 
> its nice. i like it.


Thank you-much appreciated


----------



## THC Butterz

i did some moding to my haf 912 this weekend and went from:
this:








to:


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Update of my rig which was initially posted a couple of months ago, still room for improvement, but for a HAF 922, its not bad imho. (excuse the visible cables-i forgot to tidy them up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


how well does that bottom 120mm rad fit? i have been thinking about adding one to my loop when i add my 6870 to it, but im still debating whether i want to put it on the rear exhaust fan mounts or as a bottom intake


----------



## kkorky

Fits fine with no problems what so ever(see attached photo without the case panel)-i even have enough space to add a shroud if i want, so that means that you could feasibly run the rad in a push/pull combo.
USB/Power on cables etc do not obstruct the installation either. Ive placed a 120 mm fan filter underneath the case since the fan is pulling air into the case, With regards to rear mounting, i tried that without hoses etc-just to see what it looked like, in my situation the rad + fan were sticking out too far into the case, and it looked messy. Imo, even if it had fitted without the aesthetic problems, i would not want a rad pulling in air in that position, nor would i want my rad expelling hot air (ie being used as an exhaust)



More info can be found here:http://www.overclock.net/t/1223466/my-first-watercooling-rig-hope-for-all-haf-922-owners-who-dont-fancy-doing-too-much-case-modding -hope that this covers your query.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> how well does that bottom 120mm rad fit? i have been thinking about adding one to my loop when i add my 6870 to it, but im still debating whether i want to put it on the rear exhaust fan mounts or as a bottom intake


It also depends on your PSU, I find my cables are a bit tight and took a little more fine tuning to squeeze them into place. I have the Corsair HX1050 which is the same physical size as my previous HX750. You can also offset the mount position slightly further away from the PSU if you don't mind making a couple extra little holes in the bottom to relocate it more towards the front. All in all, it is a nice sneaky place to toss a single (or possibly a double if you yank the HDD cage and add another fan hole in the bottom).


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> It also depends on your PSU, I find my cables are a bit tight and took a little more fine tuning to squeeze them into place. I have the Corsair HX1050 which is the same physical size as my previous HX750. You can also offset the mount position slightly further away from the PSU if you don't mind making a couple extra little holes in the bottom to relocate it more towards the front. All in all, it is a nice sneaky place to toss a single (or possibly a double if you yank the HDD cage and add another fan hole in the bottom).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Fits fine with no problems what so ever(see attached photo without the case panel)-i even have enough space to add a shroud if i want, so that means that you could feasibly run the rad in a push/pull combo.
> USB/Power on cables etc do not obstruct the installation either. Ive placed a 120 mm fan filter underneath the case since the fan is pulling air into the case, With regards to rear mounting, i tried that without hoses etc-just to see what it looked like, in my situation the rad + fan were sticking out too far into the case, and it looked messy. Imo, even if it had fitted without the aesthetic problems, i would not want a rad pulling in air in that position, nor would i want my rad expelling hot air (ie being used as an exhaust)
> 
> More info can be found here:http://www.overclock.net/t/1223466/my-first-watercooling-rig-hope-for-all-haf-922-owners-who-dont-fancy-doing-too-much-case-modding -hope that this covers your query.


thanks for the info, im using a relatively short psu, so i think i will go with the 120mm rad+fan in the adjacent bottom point. (and maybe do some case modding to fit a 240 once i get around to adding another 6870 in crossfire)... as far as cable clearance goes i havent had any problems to date. speaking of which i finally got around to re-cable managing my setup, so i guess i will post another batch of pics. i will also be posting pics when the uv cathodes and 2 fans get here... so that should be interesting. im happy to read any comments/suggestions you guys have for me as far as any changes i should make to the build go =D.

pre-management (aka where it was this morning) = 

after management =  (not the best pic, essentially everything is tied down and managed excluding my sata cables... im not tying those down until i drill a small hole in the top of my case, run the fan power cables down through said hole, hook the fans and pump back up to my main psu, and put the right side panel back on XP)

after management left side view =  (again, not the best pic, but as you can see its pretty well cleaned up, at least i think... hopefully i will find some time to sleeve the rest of the cables and maybe drill some more management holes into the motherboard tray since i have the space, and then re manage it, i just havent done it yet







)

some shots i like... the shade of purple is great







=  ... tons of little bubbles in my res that havent left yet XP

 i couldnt find instructions on how to mount this on an AM3 setup... so i improvised. so far so good.

and last but not least a few shots of the rasa block and such,



 (looking this pic over again makes me want to take some q tips to clean the smaller spaces with the specs of dust







)



sorry for the loooooong post, i just spent a good 4 hours fiddling with the cable management and planning on where i will be putting the cathodes when i get here in 3 days. until then, i will find another stable OC. thanks in advance for any input any of you have to give (if you wish to give it







)


----------



## Willhemmens

Yeah, Castscythe, that's really wrong. Look at this:


----------



## kkorky

@Castscythe, before i can offer you my 2 cents worth of advice (and thats all it will be, no critisism etc







) can you verify that your case is a HAF 922, and your rad seems to be a XSPC RX 240, is that correct?


----------



## THERIDDLER

Has anyone ran copper tubing that was poished than painted gold? Possibly looking at doing that on my next build and would love to see pictures.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Has anyone ran copper tubing that was poished than painted gold? Possibly looking at doing that on my next build and would love to see pictures.


Im doing a full copper loop for my current SR-2 build,looks best burnished then laquered to stop tarnishing.


----------



## superericla

Gotta love getting parts in the mail.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Has anyone ran copper tubing that was poished than painted gold? Possibly looking at doing that on my next build and would love to see pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> Im doing a full copper loop for my current SR-2 build,looks best burnished then laquered to stop tarnishing.
Click to expand...

pm some pics when your done? The reason im looking for gold is im trying to match a color scheme of a motorcycle i saw a few years back and the gold tubing would be perfect.


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Yeah, Castscythe, that's really wrong. Look at this:


thanks for the pic =D. i will remount it again tonight, and post pics to confirm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> @Castscythe, before i can offer you my 2 cents worth of advice (and thats all it will be, no critisism etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) can you verify that your case is a HAF 922, and your rad seems to be a XSPC RX 240, is that correct?




i hope this confirms that im using the haf 922







, and, as you said, that i am also using the rx240 rad.


----------



## andom

So I'm doing a complete rebuild of my current setup. I'm going to be changing my case from a 650D to a NZXT Switch 810 in order for me to have all my radiators mounted inside.

Now, the problem I'm having isn't anything related to the rig; I'm simply having a hard time finding a larger table top.


----------



## cruelntention

wohoo, my system is finally 100% under water! i'm done upgrading, this has seriously put a hamper in my pocket book
this all started with a game...bf3, one upgrade just led to another and another and another.
amd rig and ati cards transformed to intel and nvidia rig over the course of late October until now.































i only have the nzxt led strip to attach, promised my roommate he could do that. lol

thank you to everyone in this forum who gave me ideas and such


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruelntention*
> 
> wohoo, my system is finally 100% under water! *i'm done upgrading*, this has seriously put a hamper in my pocket book
> this all started with a game...bf3, one upgrade just led to another and another and another.
> amd rig and ati cards transformed to intel and nvidia rig over the course of late October until now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i only have the nzxt led strip to attach, promised my roommate he could do that. lol
> thank you to everyone in this forum who gave me ideas and such


or so you think









I'm continuously thinking of adding parts too and tbh I think it's getting unhealthy







curse this hobby. it's so addicting


----------



## cruelntention

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> or so you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm continuously thinking of adding parts too and tbh I think it's getting unhealthy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> curse this hobby. it's so addicting


haha yeah, i'm doing all i can to not look at z77 maximus and ivy right now, i told myself that after the nvidia cards were released, i would get those and watercool them and be done. i'm just hoping i don't start tweaking like a crack addict


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cruelntention*
> 
> wohoo, my system is finally 100% under water! *i'm done upgrading*, this has seriously put a hamper in my pocket book
> this all started with a game...bf3, one upgrade just led to another and another and another.
> amd rig and ati cards transformed to intel and nvidia rig over the course of late October until now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i only have the nzxt led strip to attach, promised my roommate he could do that. lol
> thank you to everyone in this forum who gave me ideas and such
> 
> 
> 
> or so you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm continuously thinking of adding parts too and tbh I think it's getting unhealthy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> curse this hobby. it's so addicting
Click to expand...

Yeah, but at least once you have a loop in place the bulk of the expense is out of the way and you can sell off whatever you don't use as long as you take care of it and have cleaned it thoroughly of any residual dye. That is if you aren't running Distilled.










Love your setup cruelintention. That's right smecsy. An damn those fittings cost a bloody fortune.
















~Ceadder


----------



## cruelntention

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, but at least once you have a loop in place the bulk of the expense is out of the way and you can sell off whatever you don't use as long as you take care of it and have cleaned it thoroughly of any residual dye. That is if you aren't running Distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love your setup cruelintention. That's right smecsy. An damn those fittings cost a bloody fortune.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thank you! those fittings were bloody expensive, but well worth it! it hurts me that i have an extra one sitting unused, i thought i had accounted for all QD to be used, i'm half tempted to cut the long tube from the front rad to cpu and putting it in the middle to help with draining but i think it would be an eyesore.

the only thing i honestly hate about my loop is the ek dcp 4.0 pump, i think it's way too bulky but i don't wanna drop another 50-150 getting a pump and top.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> 
> 
> i hope this confirms that im using the haf 922
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and, as you said, that i am also using the rx240 rad.


SEXY, SEXY RIG!

*before*
Quote:


> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/730#post8022134


*After*
Quote:


> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/760#post8050684
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/image/id/1774746/width/900/height/900/flags/LL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruelntention*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, but at least once you have a loop in place the bulk of the expense is out of the way and you can sell off whatever you don't use as long as you take care of it and have cleaned it thoroughly of any residual dye. That is if you aren't running Distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love your setup cruelintention. That's right smecsy. An damn those fittings cost a bloody fortune.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you! those fittings were bloody expensive, but well worth it! it hurts me that i have an extra one sitting unused, i thought i had accounted for all QD to be used, i'm half tempted to cut the long tube from the front rad to cpu and putting it in the middle to help with draining but i think it would be an eyesore.
> 
> the only thing i honestly hate about my loop is the ek dcp 4.0 pump, i think it's way too bulky but i don't wanna drop another 50-150 getting a pump and top.
Click to expand...

Yeah I hear ya on the pump. You might list your pump here and get a DDC unit from BMaverick. I've got mine connected to a Dual DDC top and with the Male/Male fitting I'm waiting on will have my Reservoir Directly connected to it. Just need one more pump. But $35(shipped) is a heckuvalot better than $60 before shipping and comparable flow to that 4.0. You'd need another Reservoir but people are always selling a Reservoir in Marketplace. At least with my setup I can run my DDC setup parallel to the front or to the right side of the case. Of course you could always go with a Bay Reservoir/DDC unit and clear up the floor of your system entirely. Sell that QDC and you can do anything you want for the most part.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That Jingway is a good reliable little pump,nothing wrong with it at all.
Personally,i would ditch all those QDC's,restrictive as hell!...flip the rad lift the pump/res up to reduce the tubing....

Job Done.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruelntention*
> 
> wohoo, my system is finally 100% under water! i'm done upgrading, this has seriously put a hamper in my pocket book
> this all started with a game...bf3, one upgrade just led to another and another and another.
> amd rig and ati cards transformed to intel and nvidia rig over the course of late October until now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i only have the nzxt led strip to attach, promised my roommate he could do that. lol
> thank you to everyone in this forum who gave me ideas and such


Oh dear god, are you future me?


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> thanks for the info, im using a relatively short psu, so i think i will go with the 120mm rad+fan in the adjacent bottom point. (and maybe do some case modding to fit a 240 once i get around to adding another 6870 in crossfire)... as far as cable clearance goes i havent had any problems to date. speaking of which i finally got around to re-cable managing my setup, so i guess i will post another batch of pics. i will also be posting pics when the uv cathodes and 2 fans get here... so that should be interesting. im happy to read any comments/suggestions you guys have for me as far as any changes i should make to the build go =D.
> pre-management (aka where it was this morning)bunchofpics


Gotta love me some purple tubing.


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> SEXY, SEXY RIG!
> *before*
> 
> why thank you, i do have some other posts a few pages back as well. and after looking at your pics, im tempted to my fans like that for my 240, how were your tempts affected by changing the fan setup?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Triangle*
> 
> Gotta love me some purple tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the tubing itself is clear, im using feser uv purple liquid. however, if i can find some tubing in this color i will gladly post links... i honestly think this is the best shade of purple i have seen for awhile =D ... purple ftw
Click to expand...


----------



## cruelntention

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Oh dear god, are you future me?


lol depends, what are YOU planning on doing


----------



## kkorky

@Castscythe-Lol! I Wasn't doubting that you had a HAF 922 mate, i just wanted to be sure before i gave my 2 cents worth









Ok here goes:

1) it seems to me that you have enough space to mount your rad inside your case-i might be wrong, but looking at your photos, you can mount the rad inside and just have the fans in either push or pull configuration on top-that will give you a much neater rig-no outer tubing, and no huge rad on top, just the fans-for an idea look at my builders log(http://www.overclock.net/t/1223466/my-first-watercooling-rig-hope-for-all-haf-922-owners-who-dont-fancy-doing-too-much-case-modding)

2) A couple more of your cables could do with a little bit more thought when it comes to routing, that will give you a neater rig (once more lol) and increase your air flow









Apart from that good job m8- and you get extra brownie points for actually attempting to wc a HAFF 922-i know @ 1st hand the work that goes into wcing such a case.

Hope that i have possibly given you some ideas to play with -after all as i said earlier, im not into critisising other peoples hard work-there are enough 'professional' trolls out there as it is


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> @Castscythe-Lol! I Wasn't doubting that you had a HAF 922 mate, i just wanted to be sure before i gave my 2 cents worth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here goes:
> 1) it seems to me that you have enough space to mount your rad inside your case-i might be wrong, but looking at your photos, you can mount the rad inside and just have the fans in either push or pull configuration on top-that will give you a much neater rig-no outer tubing, and no huge rad on top, just the fans-for an idea look at my builders log(http://www.overclock.net/t/1223466/my-first-watercooling-rig-hope-for-all-haf-922-owners-who-dont-fancy-doing-too-much-case-modding)
> 2) A couple more of your cables could do with a little bit more thought when it comes to routing, that will give you a neater rig (once more lol) and increase your air flow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apart from that good job m8- and you get extra brownie points for actually attempting to wc a HAFF 922-i know @ 1st hand the work that goes into wcing such a case.
> Hope that i have possibly given you some ideas to play with -after all as i said earlier, im not into critisising other peoples hard work-there are enough 'professional' trolls out there as it is


well, as far as the internal mounting option goes, when i measured it all out it was really (like about the thickness of a small coin... about as thick as a penny) close to my ram, however, hopefully i will go push pull as you suggested (mounting two more fans onto the rad from inside the case), my only issue for that atm is that i need to choose whether i want to either a) get two more scythe fans for matching specs b) get two more uv reactive fans to match the two im adding to the interior of the case (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_221&products_id=24962 ), or c) using the two fans that came with the rx240 as the interior fans... but currently all options are moot because i dont have 8 more screws to attach them with XP, and i havent tried to figure out a way to do it with cable ties yet XD. in the meantime though, if i can order some more of the purple coolant (i dont want to use the dye instead.... the dye i would have to use to achieve the same color has a bad habit of gunking and clogging). i will take it all down and perhaps drill the holes in the top of the case required to mount it on top w/o using the holes im currently using, but i will try to fit it with the ports closer to the res (like your buildlog), and if i can i will go for that. as far as cable management goes, it will all be redone soon (im buying a 1000w modular psu from a friend, so i will have to redo it when that gets here anyway XP). at this stage i just want to get the 6870 under as well, then add the new psu, and when i add the psu do a complete rebuild and try to fit everything internally and install push/pull configs for the 240 and 120 rads. also during said rebuild i might paint the inside of the case (not powdercoat, but maybe uv paint), as well as *hopefully* adding a window to my other panel so i can run it all with the panels on it again. watercooling this case has certainly been interesting, but on the upside it has at very least kept me thinking XP.

one more thing... i might have to switch to compression fittings, or at least add a few to make routing the tubing around a bit more easy. as far as tubing goes, it will probably end up going something like this = pump out to 240mm like it currently is (unless i can move it into the case), then rad to cpu in, then cpu out to gpu in (or to 120mm rad in the bottom, i havent decided yet... i dont mind using more tubing an have a tube or two cross







) then from gpu out to rad in to rad out to res in (or from cpu > 120 rad > right side fitting on the card out the left side > res if the cpu goes to the rad instead on the card.)... as you can probably see im still throwing around ideas and sketching them up along with the other projects on my plate (building a router and NAS to replace my dying router and prebuilt tiny nas drive, along with modifying the closet its all housed in to correctly cool everything) , so i have until i can order the new block rad tubing coolant screws and maybe fans in about 2 weeks depending on a few other factors XD


----------



## OverClocker55

So I want to start water cooling. My objective is to get something looking this nice. I'm a noob and don't know anything. Is this going to take a while to learn or is it easy to get something this nice?


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> So I want to start water cooling. My objective is to get something looking this nice. I'm a noob and don't know anything. Is this going to take a while to learn or is it easy to get something this nice?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that is a nice loop, the switch 810 makes water-cooling a dream. To answer you question yes you can make a clean loop like this. Select a clean, water-cooling friendly case and just use you head and pre-plan everything don't be afraid to start over if you don't like it.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Wow that is a nice loop, the switch 810 makes water-cooling a dream. To answer you question yes you can make a clean loop like this. Select a clean, water-cooling friendly case and just use you head and pre-plan everything don't be afraid to start over if you don't like it.


ok well I got the 300R and 650D + HAF 912. Which is the best?


----------



## randomnerd865

650d would be the cleanest case I hate the 912 and the 300r seems cheap.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Wow that is a nice loop, the switch 810 makes water-cooling a dream. To answer you question yes you can make a clean loop like this. Select a clean, water-cooling friendly case and just use you head and pre-plan everything don't be afraid to start over if you don't like it.
> 
> 
> 
> ok well I got the 300R and 650D + HAF 912. Which is the best?
Click to expand...

All really good. But here is a 912 build for reference if you don't need the 5.25 bay or a HDD cage. Dude has a SSD/2.5 HDD setup.


















~Ceadder


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruelntention*
> 
> lol depends, what are YOU planning on doing


Well so far my whole build was focused for playing BF3. Just recently having the urge to upgrade, especially to WC.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> well, as far as the internal mounting option goes, when i measured it all out it was really (like about the thickness of a small coin... about as thick as a penny) close to my ram, however, hopefully i will go push pull as you suggested (mounting two more fans onto the rad from inside the case), my only issue for that atm is that i need to choose whether i want to either a) get two more scythe fans for matching specs b) get two more uv reactive fans to match the two im adding to the interior of the case (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_221&products_id=24962 ), or c) using the two fans that came with the rx240 as the interior fans... but currently all options are moot because i dont have 8 more screws to attach them with XP, and i havent tried to figure out a way to do it with cable ties yet XD. in the meantime though, if i can order some more of the purple coolant (i dont want to use the dye instead.... the dye i would have to use to achieve the same color has a bad habit of gunking and clogging). i will take it all down and perhaps drill the holes in the top of the case required to mount it on top w/o using the holes im currently using, but i will try to fit it with the ports closer to the res (like your buildlog), and if i can i will go for that. as far as cable management goes, it will all be redone soon (im buying a 1000w modular psu from a friend, so i will have to redo it when that gets here anyway XP). at this stage i just want to get the 6870 under as well, then add the new psu, and when i add the psu do a complete rebuild and try to fit everything internally and install push/pull configs for the 240 and 120 rads. also during said rebuild i might paint the inside of the case (not powdercoat, but maybe uv paint), as well as *hopefully* adding a window to my other panel so i can run it all with the panels on it again. watercooling this case has certainly been interesting, but on the upside it has at very least kept me thinking XP.
> one more thing... i might have to switch to compression fittings, or at least add a few to make routing the tubing around a bit more easy. as far as tubing goes, it will probably end up going something like this = pump out to 240mm like it currently is (unless i can move it into the case), then rad to cpu in, then cpu out to gpu in (or to 120mm rad in the bottom, i havent decided yet... i dont mind using more tubing an have a tube or two cross
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) then from gpu out to rad in to rad out to res in (or from cpu > 120 rad > right side fitting on the card out the left side > res if the cpu goes to the rad instead on the card.)... as you can probably see im still throwing around ideas and sketching them up along with the other projects on my plate (building a router and NAS to replace my dying router and prebuilt tiny nas drive, along with modifying the closet its all housed in to correctly cool everything) , so i have until i can order the new block rad tubing coolant screws and maybe fans in about 2 weeks depending on a few other factors XD


LOL!! wow i had to catch my breath just reading your post mate! I like the enthusiasm








I'll address what i feel im competent in, the rest ill leave it to others better suited in such matters.

1)With regards to your rad, if you have space-even a cents worth of space (as you put it), you can mount your rad inside-what i meant about using a push/pull configuration was, that you could either have your fans pulling or pushing air, i didn't mean use 4 fans-ill explain: your RX 240 is geared for low-medium rpm fans, you dont really have to have 4 fans (2 on top and 2 on the bottom) the difference in temp would be negligible. Check out this link @ Martin's liquid labs (http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/) also have a look @ http://skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360-v1/ this will further explain the way your low FPI rad works.
So, to continue, you could mount your rad inside your case and then just have 2 fans on the outside either pulling or pushing air into your case (again refer to the Martin's liquid labs link to help you make your choice)-that way you will have less clutter outside your rig and the only outer 'hardware' will be two fans.

2) fans: try to get a pair of Gentle Typhoons (1850 rpm) ok so you wont need the high rpm, but is always better to have the extra should you ever need it.
If you must have UV or led fans, look for such fans that have a high CFM, ie: Gelid UV wing 120 or Enermax fans-look them up, they have many versions.

3)Screws are easy to get, just shoot an e mail to your favourite online water cooling dealer citing what you need screws for(ie your rads specs) and they'll tell you what size you need, then pop down to your local hardware store and shop to your heart's content








Cable ties would be a bad option and the screws that you need which are more than likely 6-32 type screws come in many lengths, so you could screw in your fans on top and hold the rad in place that way.

4) coolant/dyes etc BAD!!! Seriously, stick with Distilled water/kill coil etc-just before i stripped my rig to expand it, i tested a well known dye and 3-4 hrs later when i stripped down my rig, my clear tubing was already partially stained-imagine what it would be like after a few months! Get coloured tubing-in your case though, the only purple tubing is made by Mastekleer (i know because i myself was looking for purple tubing)-and I cant say that ive read good things about Mastekleer -that's your call to make.

5) you don't need to drill any hole to mount your rad as long as your rad isn't hitting your ram or mosfets.

6) If you have the money, and you cant be bothered to do all the work involved in cutting a hole to place an acrylic window-look up Coolermaster (US in your case) and get a side panel-they arent that expensive.
You can get the Haf 922 version, or the Sniper panel which also fits the Haf 922, it has a larger window-all you will have to then do is drill 2 small holes so you can screw the panel to your case (the Sniper's holes don't line up with the case)

Loop order doesn't matter that much, the difference in temps is negligible -in fact after a while, the overall temp of your loop steadies itself-go for the shortest tubing route that you can, that aids in flow and it also looks miles neater than some spaghetti junctions that i have seen.

The rest as they same my friend is up to you-my final advice, is get some paper, plan out your rig, then get the parts needed, and HAVE FUN BUILDING your rig-dont try to copy others, yes, sure use other rigs for inspiration, but make your design/rig your own


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> So I want to start water cooling. My objective is to get something looking this nice. I'm a noob and don't know anything. Is this going to take a while to learn or is it easy to get something this nice?


Can you post the source?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Can you post the source?


of?
EDIT: http://www.pcper.com/news/Systems/New-CyberpowerPC-Zeus-Desktop-Series-Feature-Intel-Core-i7-3820-and-AMD-FX-CPUs


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> LOL!! wow i had to catch my breath just reading your post mate! I like the enthusiasm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll address what i feel im competent in, the rest ill leave it to others better suited in such matters.
> 1)With regards to your rad, if you have space-even a cents worth of space (as you put it), you can mount your rad inside-what i meant about using a push/pull configuration was, that you could either have your fans pulling or pushing air, i didn't mean use 4 fans-ill explain: your RX 240 is geared for low-medium rpm fans, you dont really have to have 4 fans (2 on top and 2 on the bottom) the difference in temp would be negligible. Check out this link @ Martin's liquid labs (http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/) also have a look @ http://skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360-v1/ this will further explain the way your low FPI rad works.
> So, to continue, you could mount your rad inside your case and then just have 2 fans on the outside either pulling or pushing air into your case (again refer to the Martin's liquid labs link to help you make your choice)-that way you will have less clutter outside your rig and the only outer 'hardware' will be two fans.
> 2) fans: try to get a pair of Gentle Typhoons (1850 rpm) ok so you wont need the high rpm, but is always better to have the extra should you ever need it.
> If you must have UV or led fans, look for such fans that have a high CFM, ie: Gelid UV wing 120 or Enermax fans-look them up, they have many versions.
> 3)Screws are easy to get, just shoot an e mail to your favourite online water cooling dealer citing what you need screws for(ie your rads specs) and they'll tell you what size you need, then pop down to your local hardware store and shop to your heart's content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable ties would be a bad option and the screws that you need which are more than likely 6-32 type screws come in many lengths, so you could screw in your fans on top and hold the rad in place that way.
> 4) coolant/dyes etc BAD!!! Seriously, stick with Distilled water/kill coil etc-just before i stripped my rig to expand it, i tested a well known dye and 3-4 hrs later when i stripped down my rig, my clear tubing was already partially stained-imagine what it would be like after a few months! Get coloured tubing-in your case though, the only purple tubing is made by Mastekleer (i know because i myself was looking for purple tubing)-and I cant say that ive read good things about Mastekleer -that's your call to make.
> 5) you don't need to drill any hole to mount your rad as long as your rad isn't hitting your ram or mosfets.
> 6) If you have the money, and you cant be bothered to do all the work involved in cutting a hole to place an acrylic window-look up Coolermaster (US in your case) and get a side panel-they arent that expensive.
> You can get the Haf 922 version, or the Sniper panel which also fits the Haf 922, it has a larger window-all you will have to then do is drill 2 small holes so you can screw the panel to your case (the Sniper's holes don't line up with the case)
> Loop order doesn't matter that much, the difference in temps is negligible -in fact after a while, the overall temp of your loop steadies itself-go for the shortest tubing route that you can, that aids in flow and it also looks miles neater than some spaghetti junctions that i have seen.
> The rest as they same my friend is up to you-my final advice, is get some paper, plan out your rig, then get the parts needed, and HAVE FUN BUILDING your rig-dont try to copy others, yes, sure use other rigs for inspiration, but make your design/rig your own


i have looked at he sniper panel, but last i checked the cm store was down, (and coincidentally they might have stopped selling the side panel), but i will check again.
im going to investigate the gelid fans, (so it seems my best option would be to mount the rad internally, with the gentle typhoons mounted on top w/ a grill or filter, maybe with a shroud, then use the gelid option [im looking at this one > http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=2&id=56&tab=2 ] for internal use on the bottom rad and rear exhaust fan.) as far as uv or led goes, i would like to use uv fans, but not led fans... that probably sounds kinda weird but i have found that all the led fans i have ever used have been harsh enough to like the rest of the case, so i would rather go with a more passive option (in this case the uv cathodes lighting the fan blades)
and i dont mind cutting a custom window, in fact, i was actually planning on it. i would rather be able to do it myself, but if the sniper window comes up for sale again i will consider it.
also, as far as the cable tie fan mounting idea went i was joking XD, i didnt think that it would be a very good idea, or very effective for that matter.
as far as drilling holes i meant that it would be a possibility if my rad was still mounted on top of the case, which it *hopefully* wont be.
i found the Masterkleer tubing you suggested, and perhaps i will swap out all of my tubing to that when i order the 120mm rad and the gpu block. seems promising, i will just have to find a way to get the 7/16th tubing im using right now off my 1/2" barbs XD... its going to be interesting...

last thing... out of curiosity, which dye did you test?


----------



## kkorky

@Castscythe-ive sent you a PM with the reply

If you can unscrew the barbs, do so then place them in hot water, the tubing (or whats left of it) can then be removed very easily.


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> @Castscythe-ive sent you a PM with the reply
> If you can unscrew the barbs, do so then place them in hot water, the tubing (or whats left of it) can then be removed very easily.


sweet, thanks. i didnt see this update until i replied to the pm XD. and it seems right now that the basic plan is to to a complete system rebuild when i order the new rad, the masterkleer, the fans (and distributing the other fans to another rig in my house, most likely the closet project), and making a more finished product. eventually (over this summer, or who knows when, but hopefully soon), i hope to replace my pump res, get a tube res (perhaps mounting it on my vertical expansion slot, or in the space left on the mobo tray... unless i have replaced my mobo+cpu by then... but thats all up in the air), or a bay res (havent decided, to many possibly fun options







) and replace the rasa with something like the EK HF, as well as replacing my barbs with compression fittings if i can, but we shall see. i have some good plans for this rig, its just all dependent on how much extra $ i can generate right now XD.

*edit* how is frozen cpu? i havent used them before, and its the only us store i can find the masterkleer at :worried:...


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> So I want to start water cooling. My objective is to get something looking this nice. I'm a noob and don't know anything. Is this going to take a while to learn or is it easy to get something this nice?


I think it just requires planning, and some motivation







I was pretty much a noob too, and after a bit of research I ended up with what you see in my sig.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> I think it just requires planning, and some motivation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was pretty much a noob too, and after a bit of research I ended up with what you see in my sig.


kk


----------



## randomnerd865

btw a phantom makes a sick modded water cooled rig too defiantly check that out.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> sweet, thanks. i didnt see this update until i replied to the pm XD. and it seems right now that the basic plan is to to a complete system rebuild when i order the new rad, the masterkleer, the fans (and distributing the other fans to another rig in my house, most likely the closet project), and making a more finished product. eventually (over this summer, or who knows when, but hopefully soon), i hope to replace my pump res, get a tube res (perhaps mounting it on my vertical expansion slot, or in the space left on the mobo tray... unless i have replaced my mobo+cpu by then... but thats all up in the air), or a bay res (havent decided, to many possibly fun options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and replace the rasa with something like the EK HF, as well as replacing my barbs with compression fittings if i can, but we shall see. i have some good plans for this rig, its just all dependent on how much extra $ i can generate right now XD.
> *edit* how is frozen cpu? i havent used them before, and its the only us store i can find the masterkleer at :worried:...


Im in Europe and i have used them twice, on both occasions my goods arrived very quickly and in good condition,going on what many US posters have to say as well, they are a good choice, and also Performance Pcs seems to be good-hey, i wish i was in your position (living in the states-just for wc products lol) you guys have a huge choice of online retailers-much more than in Europe


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> I think it just requires planning, and some motivation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was pretty much a noob too, and after a bit of research I ended up with what you see in my sig.


Great build, made me spend 15mins looking at your thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: Lookie Lookie what we have here!




















Borked a pin a couple days ago. Good thing my pins and fan connectors showed up today too!









~Ceadder


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Im in Europe and i have used them twice, on both occasions my goods arrived very quickly and in good condition,going on what many US posters have to say as well, they are a good choice, and also Performance Pcs seems to be good-hey, i wish i was in your position (living in the states-just for wc products lol) you guys have a huge choice of online retailers-much more than in Europe


nvm on the "only place". i just found it at performance pc's. as far as retailers go i have exclusively used PPC's so far, and have had good experiences with the packaging, support, and such. my only issue is that their standard shipping takes an age to get to me because they ship from florida. on the upside, they dont charge me sales tax, which is pretty nice.


----------



## zer0signa1

Well my Danger Den Torture Rack finally came in!!! w00t w00t!! Have 5 days off coming up on Friday... I think I know what I will be doing....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Im in Europe and i have used them twice, on both occasions my goods arrived very quickly and in good condition,going on what many US posters have to say as well, they are a good choice, and also Performance Pcs seems to be good-hey, i wish i was in your position (living in the states-just for wc products lol) you guys have a huge choice of online retailers-much more than in Europe


Why go there when Specialtech is in UK?


----------



## Raging Bull

Could Someone add me to this club please ... here is my NZXT Switch 810 build







thanks in advance

http://www.overclock.net/t/1241252/blood-dragon-rebuild-nzxt-switch-810


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raging Bull*
> 
> Could Someone add me to this club please ... here is my NZXT Switch 810 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks in advance
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1241252/blood-dragon-rebuild-nzxt-switch-810


nice build. to be added you need to post pics in this thread.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why go there when Specialtech is in UK?


You say it like Specialtech are the main 'go to' store in the UK lol.

Simple,because Steve does not sell certain products, and short of approaching the actual manufacturer themselves, Frozen is a good option in situations where certain products are only available in the US, and anyway i like shopping around for the best prices in combination with good QC and after sales service, there are more choices other than Specialtech in the UK









For example, i wanted to get a eight Enermax fans for two of my office rigs, and the particular model isn't available in Europe. So i looked across the pond and Frozen came up trumps









On another occasion, i was able to get 2x male Koolance QDs & 2x female Koolance QDs for nearly half the price that i would have paid in the UK (and yes shipping costs are included, i was lucky because shipping costs are quite steep from the US)


----------



## OverClocker55

Add me. ( if the corsair H60 counts. Will be getting a H80 and use the h60 for my 580)


----------



## tiborrr12

For a buddy of mine. 2D calculations + some modern games. Funny thing, this CPU does 4.9GHz with same voltage with just 16GB RAM, with 32GB the limit is 4.7GHz.

*Hardware:*
Ci7 2600K @ 4.7GHz
EVGA P67 FTW
4x8GB GeIL Evo Corsa DDR3-1333 C9 (32GB total)
MSI Radeon HD 7950 @ 950/1500MHz (barely clocked)
Corsair TX 650W
1x WD Caviar Blue 1GB HDD
1x Adata S510 120GB SSD
Cooler Master HAF-932 Advanced

*Water cooling:*
- EK-Supreme - EN (Nickel) /w nickel plated mounting plate
- EK-FC7950 - EN (Nickel) + EK-FC7950 Backplate
- EK-RAM CoolStream XT 360 + 3x Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-14 (1450rpm)
- Tygon Norprene 10/13mm cevi + EK-PSC 10mm + one EK adaptor 90°
- Laing D5 vario + EK-D5 X-TOP
- EK-BAY SINGLE Reservoir - Acetal


----------



## Castscythe

itwontletmedeletethispost...

well, idk if i posted pics or not (i might later), but i fixed my mount. now its just a waiting game for the fans and cathodes


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

DIY'd h60(cpu)/dual h70s (on 460s**second card getting done this weekend**)


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> DIY'd h60(cpu)/dual h70s (on 460s**second card getting done this weekend**)


great job on the mod







! do you have any pics of the entire build, im curious to see how the entire loop works out


----------



## Nynn

Front shot


----------



## charlievoviii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhatFree*
> 
> that is heart stoping, i love it so much


thanks bro. I'm not done yet. I waiting for my mobo water blocks to come in and i will snap some new pix.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some progress:


Great Job on the Quad SLI


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For a buddy of mine. 2D calculations + some modern games. Funny thing, this CPU does 4.9GHz with same voltage with just 16GB RAM, with 32GB the limit is 4.7GHz.
> *Hardware:*
> Ci7 2600K @ 4.7GHz
> EVGA P67 FTW
> 4x8GB GeIL Evo Corsa DDR3-1333 C9 (32GB total)
> MSI Radeon HD 7950 @ 950/1500MHz (barely clocked)
> Corsair TX 650W
> 1x WD Caviar Blue 1GB HDD
> 1x Adata S510 120GB SSD
> Cooler Master HAF-932 Advanced
> *Water cooling:*
> - EK-Supreme - EN (Nickel) /w nickel plated mounting plate
> - EK-FC7950 - EN (Nickel) + EK-FC7950 Backplate
> - EK-RAM CoolStream XT 360 + 3x Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-14 (1450rpm)
> - Tygon Norprene 10/13mm cevi + EK-PSC 10mm + one EK adaptor 90°
> - Laing D5 vario + EK-D5 X-TOP
> - EK-BAY SINGLE Reservoir - Acetal


I'm liking the look of the Norprene tubing.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Add me. ( if the corsair H60 counts. Will be getting a H80 and use the h60 for my 580)


You change your GPU all the time, also nice Berry Punch Pony ;D


----------



## bundymania

....installed and running...a nice looking block with good temps...but...you know what...i miss some 3mm led holes...


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'm liking the look of the Norprene tubing.


Well thank you!


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Thinking about a desk build, permanent cooling solution with a test bench under glass, not as flashy as L3P or any of those, but definitely over-cooled and sturdy... For starters it'll probably be tall enough to tuck my Cobra project underneath and put a small server build in the desk. Sooo.... I'm looking for a big radiator, or if necessary, several small ones. I've got a wanted thread going, no reasonable offers will be refused







Thanks for looking! I'll get some concept drawings in here soon!


----------



## Shogon

folding/gaming rigs outfitted


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> 
> folding/gaming rigs outfitted


Nice


----------



## randomnerd865

Does anyone have any experiences with the EK kits vs. the xspc kits?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Great Job on the Quad SLI


Thanks mate


----------



## kevingreenbmx

updated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Add me. ( if the corsair H60 counts. Will be getting a H80 and use the h60 for my 580)


yes, the corsair things count, just like they did the other three times I added on to your entry


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Does anyone have any experiences with the EK kits vs. the xspc kits?


I'm a big fan of my XSPC Rasa RS240 kit.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> updated
> yes, the corsair things count, just like they did the other three times I added on to your entry


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> why thank you, i do have some other posts a few pages back as well. and after looking at your pics, im tempted to my fans like that for my 240, *how were your tempts affected by changing the fan setup*?


Cast, Whoa, I haven't WC rig for long a while, but I really remember that the temp was slightly improvement after change the fans sets up as drop from 20c to 18C Idle, --FULL LOAD ~ never gets above 28C.. it will go back WC loop again soon when the beautiful WC block arrive by a mail!


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Cast, Whoa, I haven't WC rig for long a while, but I really remember that the temp was slightly improvement after change the fans sets up as drop from 20c to 18C Idle, --FULL LOAD ~ never gets above 28C.. it will go back WC loop again soon when the beautiful WC block arrive by a mail!


nice temps. i hope the new block continues supplying temps like those O.O


----------



## Striknine

This is the PC I am using now until Ivy Bridge comes out. I just bought a Case Labs STH10 and another 7970 for the new build. I will most likely sell the case, rad, fans, since they don't fit my next build.









i7 950
AMD7970
12 gig ram
Single 400mm Phobya Rad in top.


----------



## JourdanWithaU

What are your guys' thoughts on RAM blocks? After scrolling through a good chunk of this thread (and I'm still going) it seems like they aren't that common.

Even though I am still just hanging with a Rasa 750 kit right now, I keep dreaming up ways to expand the loop. I keep pondering the idea of a RAM block. And I see the block that XSPC makes and I kind of like it a lot.


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striknine*
> 
> This is the PC I am using now until Ivy Bridge comes out. I just bought a Case Labs STH10 and another 7970 for the new build. I will most likely sell the case, rad, fans, since they don't fit my next build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i7 950
> AMD7970
> 12 gig ram
> Single 400mm Phobya Rad in top.


You, sir, are very patient. I would have put all that in the Case Labs STH10 by now.... hahaha


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> What are your guys' thoughts on RAM blocks? After scrolling through a good chunk of this thread (and I'm still going) it seems like they aren't that common.
> Even though I am still just hanging with a Rasa 750 kit right now, I keep dreaming up ways to expand the loop. I keep pondering the idea of a RAM block. And I see the block that XSPC makes and I kind of like it a lot.


It is for pure aesthetic purpose. Ram doesn't need nor benefit from water cooling it just looks good.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> It is for pure aesthetic purpose. Ram doesn't need nor benefit from water cooling it just looks good.


----------



## Estamofo

My first real water cooled rig


----------



## TheJesus

^^ Take off the 2nd crossfire bridge, you only need and should only use one.


----------



## Estamofo

That's what I thought at first, couldn't find any solid info online other than mostly opinions so decided run 3DMark11 with 1 and then with 2 and score was apox 150 points higher with 2 (strange). Anyone else have similar results? Only been like that for about two days so far no weird issues so far.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Estamofo*
> 
> That's what I thought at first, couldn't find any solid info online other than mostly opinions so decided run 3DMark11 with 1 and then with 2 and score was apox 150 points higher with 2 (strange). Anyone else have similar results? Only been like that for about two days so far no weird issues so far.


Its not for performance reasons, people have had issues running both bridges where the cards burned out







Not sure if they ever changed/fixed that.


----------



## MRHANDS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Its not for performance reasons, people have had issues running both bridges where the cards burned out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if they ever changed/fixed that.


First I've heard of it.

Been running my 5850's with 2 bridges for about 2 years now. That's a fairly good length of time considering most people that use CF or SLI know enough about GPU tech that they upgrade and don't hold onto the same cards for as long as I have.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Its not for performance reasons, people have had issues running both bridges where the cards burned out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if they ever changed/fixed that.


I feel compelled to say that correlation is not causality. Back in the old days, you HAD to run both bridges. Come to think of it, I had x1950 pro setup that used two bridges, and one of those cards has dead vram. I doubt the 2nd bridge killed it.









that's interconnects, plural.

It's pretty safe to say that smoking causes lung cancer, but having lung cancer doesn't make you a smoker.


----------



## wermad

When I ran 4870x2 + 4870 I had to use two bridges. When i ran two 6950s, I didn't notice any difference in running one or two but I never ran a benchmark since I eventually ran tri 6950s.

I've heard both sides but I really don't see any harm in running one or two. As far as benching, if two will give you a better score, then have at it


----------



## TheJesus

I should've clarified, after the 3000 series, it wasn't needed except in certain circumstances (i.e. the 4870X2, I had two of them, lmao). I've seen more reports of artifact flickering than anything else using two.


----------



## HyDrokid

Updated my first rig


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I should've clarified, after the 3000 series, it wasn't needed except in certain circumstances (i.e. the 4870X2, I had two of them, lmao). I've seen more reports of artifact flickering than anything else using two.


Yeah, lots of uncertainty with that. But really, the bigger question is: When is AMD going to do hard-bridge?!?!?!?!?!? I think I've seen one from a mb maker but I'm not even sure if this elusive creature exists


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, lots of uncertainty with that. But really, the bigger question is: When is AMD going to do hard-bridge?!?!?!?!?!? I think I've seen one from a mb maker but I'm not even sure if this elusive creature exists


That is a good question







You can always paint the bridges solid black and space the cards to make the bridge straight/flat. Secretive unshown picture from my build just for you








:


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joining*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been like this for about a year. Maybe i should upgrade.


anyone know what color scheme this is exactly in regards to tubing and liquid fans etc?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> That is a good question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can always paint the bridges solid black and space the cards to make the bridge straight/flat. Secretive unshown picture from my build just for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


MyBadOmen did an amazing job on his bridge. With the right tools, know how, and patience you can make something like he did:



It is a work of art. AMD take note!!!!!!


----------



## nycste

just updating my rig

Very annoyed at this picture as you can see one of the main reasons I went white tubes was to get a UV glow effect and clearly these white tubes do nto reflect any UV and barely any blue led off the fan very dissappointed....

PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - 10ft Retail Pack - White (PFLEXP10-758-W)



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Asustweaker

7/16" with 1/2" barb fittings is the way to go.
Just gotta refine it a bit. I.E. Paper towels. lol


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> MyBadOmen did an amazing job on his bridge. With the right tools, know how, and patience you can make something like he did:
> 
> It is a work of art. AMD take note!!!!!!


Lol, apples and oranges right there







Mine was far easier, but certainly not as awesome (it looks a lot better than my cameraphone can show, lol).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> What are your guys' thoughts on RAM blocks? After scrolling through a good chunk of this thread (and I'm still going) it seems like they aren't that common.
> Even though I am still just hanging with a Rasa 750 kit right now, I keep dreaming up ways to expand the loop. I keep pondering the idea of a RAM block. And I see the block that XSPC makes and I kind of like it a lot.


DDR2 is a really the only RAM to benefit from watercooling due to the heat they chuck out,DDR3 is cooler running and not really needing it.
Once you add the restriction ram blocks have,its not worth it.


----------



## ShortAlieN

Have you seen my Phantom? Its not too shabby.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> I feel compelled to say that correlation is not causality. Back in the old days, you HAD to run both bridges. Come to think of it, I had x1950 pro setup that used two bridges, and one of those cards has dead vram. I doubt the 2nd bridge killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's interconnects, plural.
> It's pretty safe to say that smoking causes lung cancer, but having lung cancer doesn't make you a smoker.


What determines the amount of bridges is the mobo chipset and cards,you can run with no bridges at all but there is a performance hit.

Taken from [Hard]OCP's review of the HD 5850 here: http://www.hardocp.com/article/2009/..._card_review/8

"AMD has informed us that only one CrossFireX bridge connector is now required on the Radeon HD 5800 series. We originally setup our two HD 5850's with just one bridge connector. We had no problems running our games at 1920x1200 with high levels of AA like 8X and CFAA modes. However, when we tried some games at 2560x1600 with 8X AA we experienced a few glitches. For example, Crysis: Warhead would experience some flashing textures at 2560x1600 with 8X AA at all "Enthusiast" settings. AMD told us that one bridge connector is all that is required; but if we were to ever experience flashing textures, try installing both bridge connectors. To our enjoyment, installing both bridge connectors resolved the flashing textures in Crysis at 2560x1600 at 8X AA. From that moment on we continued to test with both bridge connectors connected and had no problems whatsoever.

It seems that if you ever see any broken geometry or flashing polygons in your games with CrossFireX, and you only have one connector installed, try installing two, this can possibly fix your issue. So while one is required, for the most stable experience, and to ensure the least amount of trouble, we still recommend installing both connectors on the Radeon HD 5800 series. We will be looking into this more as we start to test Radeon HD 5870 CrossFireX which can push even more pixels."


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> just updating my rig
> Very annoyed at this picture as you can see one of the main reasons I went white tubes was to get a UV glow effect and clearly these white tubes do nto reflect any UV and barely any blue led off the fan very dissappointed....
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - 10ft Retail Pack - White (PFLEXP10-758-W)
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Thats because Primochill do not make a UV white tube-hence no UV effect- if i recall Mastercleer do
. Also bear in mind that any other light source within your rig lessens the effect of UV lights.
Thirdly Cathodes are bulky and have an inverter which can be a pain to hide, and they are not the most powerful light source(plus they generate alot of heat compared to led strips)-go for LED high density UV strips (like the Phobya) they give off more light, less heat and are neater to work with.

Go here-a little help for when choosing tubing in the future mate









http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?257991-Review-Comparison-between-3-8-quot-5-8-quot-Tubing-Tygon-Primochill-Masterkleer-Koolance

Good luck


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Thats because Primochill do not make a UV white tube-hence no UV effect- if i recall Mastercleer do
> . Also bear in mind that any other light source within your rig lessens the effect of UV lights.
> Thirdly Cathodes are bulky and have an inverter which can be a pain to hide, and they are not the most powerful light source(plus they generate alot of heat compared to led strips)-go for LED high density UV strips (like the Phobya) they give off more light, less heat and are neater to work with.
> Go here-a little help for when choosing tubing in the future mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?257991-Review-Comparison-between-3-8-quot-5-8-quot-Tubing-Tygon-Primochill-Masterkleer-Koolance
> Good luck


I guess he assumed, (I would to) that anything that is white in colour glows under UV, I can't understand why his tubing does not...


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> I guess he assumed, (I would to) that anything that is white in colour glows under UV, I can't understand why his tubing does not...


http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20061117032629AAURNCJ

Happy reading


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Estamofo*
> 
> My first real water cooled rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Everything is cooled just by the 200mm radiator? Are the temps good enough with just that?







Just curious...I used to use a 240 and a 360 rad when I water cooled my 600T.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Have you seen my Phantom? Its not too shabby.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have not seen it, not shabby at all, really digging the side panel


----------



## OverSightX

Updated mine. It's currently in my basement leak testing so it's almost done for now.

Changes:
barbs to 1/2 x 3/4 Monsoon Fittings
smaller black tubing to Primochill UV Red 1/2 x 3/4
Swiftech Apogee XT to the Apogee HD

old:


New:


----------



## DrJns

big upgrade in looks, oversight. nice work.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Updated mine. It's currently in my basement leak testing so it's almost done for now.
> Changes:
> barbs to 1/2 x 3/4 Monsoon Fittings
> smaller black tubing to Primochill UV Red 1/2 x 3/4
> Swiftech Apogee XT to the Apogee HD
> old:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: :drool: :drool: :drool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New:


So did that take a while to do? I want to setup my 580 cause I already own a block..


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> big upgrade in looks, oversight. nice work.


Thanks! I like this much better as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> So did that take a while to do? I want to setup my 580 cause I already own a block..


Changing everything was actually fairly quick. I think it took ~1hr or so to install the new stuff. I didnt have to take the Rads off at all so that helped. What took me the longest was that after i installed the parts my bottom GPU block decided to leak and I had to take it all apart and replace an O-ring. Other than that it went pretty easy. The Monsoon fitting are so much easier to work with then the barbs and tighter tubing. .


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Updated mine. It's currently in my basement leak testing so it's almost done for now.
> Changes:
> barbs to 1/2 x 3/4 Monsoon Fittings
> smaller black tubing to Primochill UV Red 1/2 x 3/4
> Swiftech Apogee XT to the Apogee HD
> old:
> 
> New:


What are cpu temps idle and load? with ambients?



new block


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> What are cpu temps idle and load? with ambients?


I haven't run anything on it just yet. Still leak testing til I get home. Before with the old tubing/fittings i was getting: CPU @ 4.2 1.38V ~36c/62c with 23c ambient and the 2 GPUs usually around 27c/52c same ambient. those were the highest I have seen them while under stress. Gaming for a few hours don't get that high. ~4-6c lower all around.

I don't expect much improvement on temps. I did order and still have a GT 120 Stealth rad I was going to put in the rear butit was it a tight fit with the EK bridge and the 360 rad setup up top.


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> I haven't run anything on it just yet. Still leak testing til I get home. Before with the old tubing/fittings i was getting: CPU @ 4.2 1.38V ~36c/62c with 23c ambient and the 2 GPUs usually around 27c/52c same ambient. those were the highest I have seen them while under stress. Gaming for a few hours don't get that high. ~4-6c lower all around.
> I don't expect much improvement on temps. I did order and still have a GT 120 Stealth rad I was going to put in the rear butit was it a tight fit with the EK bridge and the 360 rad setup up top.


Yeap the tubing won't change temps

I get kinda similar loads, 2-3 degrees higher, but my idles are much higher, like 8C higher. My ambients are 28-29 degrees. So i bought a EK supreme HF.

Also a 80mm for the mobo.


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Yeap the tubing won't change temps
> I get kinda similar loads, 2-3 degrees higher, but my idles are much higher, like 8C higher. My ambients are 28-29 degrees. So i bought a EK supreme HF.
> Also a 80mm for the mobo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Like the White!


What did you use before the Ek Supreme? It's still a little chilly here in Chicago so my ambient temps are playing nice.


----------



## douglatins

You can actually see it on the fan pic it's a raystorm, also since u have the same mobo as I, my ROG logo from the NB keeps falling off, the glue doenst work anymore, any ideas?


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> You can actually see it on the fan pic it's a raystorm, also since u have the same mobo as I, my ROG logo from the NB keeps falling off, the glue doenst work anymore, any ideas?


DOH! Maybe I should have looked a little closer haha..


----------



## Farih

Would this:
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p12370_Alphacool-VPP655---G1-4-inner-thread-including-Plexi-top.html
and this:
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p5689_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Bay-SPIN-Reservoir---Acetal.html
Be a nice upgrade for my loop ?


----------



## douglatins

I prefer the acetal, and im not a fan of bayres


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Would this:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p12370_Alphacool-VPP655---G1-4-inner-thread-including-Plexi-top.html
> and this:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p5689_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Bay-SPIN-Reservoir---Acetal.html
> Be a nice upgrade for my loop ?


The pump, definitely!
The Res? not so much,but i dont like bay res.


----------



## Farih

Any reasons why you 2 dont like a bay res ?

Dont think i can fit a tube resevoir easely.

*Picked the Ek bay res. because it creates a waterfall like effect.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Any reasons why you 2 dont like a bay res ?
> Dont think i can fit a tube resevoir easely.


They are a pain to bleed and clean mainly.
Also i have heard of XSPC res cracking and coming apart at the seams.

You can fit tubes in the most unlikely places...


They dont have to be upright...


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Any reasons why you 2 dont like a bay res ?
> Dont think i can fit a tube resevoir easely.
> *Picked the Ek bay res. because it creates a waterfall like effect.


i have been using this for a while on my pump. was a little interesting to bleed but all is good once up and running.

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p9678_XSPC-Acrylic-Tank-Reservoir-for-Laing-D5.html


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> I prefer the acetal, and im not a fan of bayres


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The pump, definitely!
> The Res? not so much,but i dont like bay res.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Any reasons why you 2 dont like a bay res ?
> Dont think i can fit a tube resevoir easely.
> *Picked the Ek bay res. because it creates a waterfall like effect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are a pain to bleed and clean mainly.
> Also i have heard of XSPC res cracking and coming apart at the seams.
> You can fit tubes in the most unlikely places...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They dont have to be upright...


I use the monsoon bay/res and actually found it easier to bleed then when I had a cylindrical res. I guess each has their pros and cons.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/monsoon-black-with-black-trim_premium-d5-dual-bay-reservoir.html


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Thats because Primochill do not make a UV white tube-hence no UV effect- if i recall Mastercleer do
> . Also bear in mind that any other light source within your rig lessens the effect of UV lights.
> Thirdly Cathodes are bulky and have an inverter which can be a pain to hide, and they are not the most powerful light source(plus they generate alot of heat compared to led strips)-go for LED high density UV strips (like the Phobya) they give off more light, less heat and are neater to work with.
> Go here-a little help for when choosing tubing in the future mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?257991-Review-Comparison-between-3-8-quot-5-8-quot-Tubing-Tygon-Primochill-Masterkleer-Koolance
> Good luck


thanks for the response had i known this i would of never ordered the white from the store esp since the store told it it would glow and that "ALL" white reflected UV.... O well 20bucks spent and gone I can always reuse and be happy with the UV strips in another setup. I do like that link you sent very informative.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Any reasons why you 2 dont like a bay res ?
> Dont think i can fit a tube resevoir easely.
> *Picked the Ek bay res. because it creates a waterfall like effect.


If you want to use the pump/res bay combo, got for it. I have no problem bleeding them or cleaning them out and I've used them for all my builds.

NZXT Source 210


You can even stealth it if you prefer. -NZXT Switch 810



I'd probably go for the xspc res with a D5 pump.


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> If you want to use the pump/res bay combo, got for it. I have no problem bleeding them or cleaning them out and I've used them for all my builds.
> 
> NZXT Source 210
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can even stealth it if you prefer. -NZXT Switch 810
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd probably go for the xspc res with a D5 pump.


Nice looking Rig


----------



## Sixt

I got a Bay res too. But i wanted to install a res inside the case but it doesnt fit









Here are some BAD picture until it's getting lighter outside









Btw. can a fancontroller support my pump so i can control the RPM ? My motherboard is getting too hot when i am setting a lower RPM on the pump


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixt*
> 
> I got a Bay res too. But i wanted to install a res inside the case but it doesnt fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some BAD picture until it's getting lighter outside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw. can a fancontroller support my pump so i can control the RPM ? My motherboard is getting too hot when i am setting a lower RPM on the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks like you can use one of the vertical pump/res combos if you wanted one inside.

Something like: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12361/ex-pmp-127/EK_D5_X-Res_Top_140_Pump_Top_Reservoir_Combo_-_Black_Acetal_EK-D5_X-RES_TOP_140_-_Black_Acetal.html?tl=g30c107s152


----------



## Sixt

Yes, i have thought about it







But i already got two pumps









Got any ideas about the Pump/Fancontroller solution ?


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixt*
> 
> Yes, i have thought about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i already got two pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got any ideas about the Pump/Fancontroller solution ?


I would imagine that if you can find a controller that can output the right amount of amperage it would be possible, but I honestly have never tried it. Maybe someone else can be a little more help. This thread was made earlier this year. Check it out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1209150/use-fan-controller-on-pump


----------



## zoson




----------



## Farih

Thx for all responce's guys...

Think i wil keep with that EK spin bay res.
I have done tube's before [not in this case] but never a bay res.
Even if i wil hate it, attleast i gotten some more experience in watercooling


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> I would imagine that if you can find a controller that can output the right amount of amperage it would be possible, but I honestly have never tried it. Maybe someone else can be a little more help. This thread was made earlier this year. Check it out.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1209150/use-fan-controller-on-pump


Lamptron FC5 etc.....anything over 30w per channel will do,been running my D5 on a FC5 for over a year now with no issues.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixt*
> 
> Yes, i have thought about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i already got two pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got any ideas about the Pump/Fancontroller solution ?




they make it in a 12V and a 24V


----------



## bundymania

Next candidate on my test schedule...


----------



## superericla

Got an MCP655-B pump and pump top today. Temps never even reach 50C when running prime95 + furmark.


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*


Nice, i would see if you can get some slim form factor fans. I can't see how they are moving any air at all.


----------



## Ceadderman

I've got everything I need to complete my loop!!!









My fillport is gonna be barbed for the time being but all the other connections are comps if the SLI fitting works like I think it will.










Spoiler: Preview of great things to come...































Gonna get started soon. Gotta figure out my 3pin setup for my pump and get it and the 3Y connection for the fans sleeved. Then it's off to tha races.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sixt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> 
> they make it in a 12V and a 24V


Nice







, the only thing is that is a bay controller









But maybe i got room if i move my SSD's on the backplate.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got everything I need to complete my loop!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My fillport is gonna be barbed for the time being but all the other connections are comps if the SLI fitting works like I think it will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Preview of great things to come...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna get started soon. Gotta figure out my 3pin setup for my pump and get it and the 3Y connection for the fans sleeved. Then it's off to tha races.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> Nice, i would see if you can get some slim form factor fans. I can't see how they are moving any air at all.


They are slim 80x15mm fans.








Specifically, these guys: http://www.cwc-group.com/efc0812db.html
I hadn't ordered from cwc-group before, but it was no hassle and they came quick.

The connector is NOT the correct connector to fit on the cards, but it's close enough. I used some wire snips to cut the latch off, and the two little guide rail 'keys' and it fit right in as it it were meant to go there. The wiring was already correct.

There's very, very little clearance because of the backplates on the cards. But they do move some air. Also have to consider that the memory and PVM components on this card were totally uncooled previously. Also have to consider that I can run at 2400mhz memory and nobody else seems to.









Here's a better picture:









The bottom card also has a big hole under it that I use to route wires, but the hole is mostly open airspace... The bottom card's unisink does stay noticeably cooler than the other two cards.


----------



## DaClownie

Haha, I was actually gonna ask around on bay res possibility... I currently have a FrozenQ 250mm res in my Haf 932, but it fits TERRIBLY (had to ziptie/break a mount to get it in there). Just wanted the simplicity of it fitting into a location, especially with the fill port holes at the top of the 932... figured it'd be a nice easy fit.

Speaking of which... that means I'll be needing to sell two FrozenQ 250mm double helix reservoirs soon (original revisions, not the new ones)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got everything I need to complete my loop!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My fillport is gonna be barbed for the time being but all the other connections are comps if the SLI fitting works like I think it will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Preview of great things to come...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna get started soon. Gotta figure out my 3pin setup for my pump and get it and the 3Y connection for the fans sleeved. Then it's off to tha races.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Hahaha









My lighter be dead Indians. So it looks like I'm gonna be piece mealing this too.









So loop is going down and I'll deal with the sleeving later next week.









Later guys.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kires

Hi guys,

I'm new to the OCN and to water cooling, was hopin you all could send me in the right direction...

I'm going to be WC'ing my HAF 922 and I wont have much space since I dont want to cut out my drive bay or put a res. in it. I need some advice on a pump, I figured that the Laing DDC Rev. 3.55 is the perfect size but have no idea what kinda of top to get or if they make a difference?

It will look very similar to this:


Cept in this picture the pump replaces the drive bay, so I'm hopin that i could just mount the pump to the side of the drive bay with the oulets pointing upwards toward the top rad and res.

Any Ideas? Thoughts? (Yes, that is HAFenvy's rig and I am kinda borrowing his ideas







)


----------



## andom

Had so many leaks and stuff today, but I managed to have made it leak free for a few hours now. Hopefully it will remain that way!


----------



## Estamofo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Everything is cooled just by the 200mm radiator? Are the temps good enough with just that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious...I used to use a 240 and a 360 rad when I water cooled my 600T.
> I have not seen it, not shabby at all, really digging the side panel


Temps are good not great but are within a very reasonable range for only using the 1 200mm rad in push pull for both OC'ed GPU's and the 2700k @ 5ghz. Never seen above 70c under Prime95 on CPU with HT enabled at 1.43v, GPU's never hit above 50c at full load. Even less when not stress testing and just playing BF3.


----------



## Estamofo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Estamofo*
> 
> Temps are good not great but are within a very reasonable range for only using the 1 200mm rad in push pull for both OC'ed GPU's and the 2700k @ 5ghz. Never seen above 70c under Prime95 on CPU with HT enabled at 1.43v, GPU's never hit above 50c at full load. Even less when not stress testing and just playing BF3.


Wrong pic sorry that's at stock speed. Oc'ed slightly higher just under 50c.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Got an MCP655-B pump and pump top today. Temps never even reach 50C when running prime95 + furmark.


Yeah I don't surprise! its AMAZING pump macine. I had D5 and love it!


----------



## Cord78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got everything I need to complete my loop!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My fillport is gonna be barbed for the time being but all the other connections are comps if the SLI fitting works like I think it will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Preview of great things to come...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna get started soon. Gotta figure out my 3pin setup for my pump and get it and the 3Y connection for the fans sleeved. Then it's off to tha races.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You have been collecting parts for how long to get to this point?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cord78*
> 
> You have been collecting parts for how long to get to this point?


ive read some of your other posts on other threads and they have been nothing but condescending and lacking of any type of help. This forum is here so that everyone can share information, some ppl acquire parts quicker than others, some are just more patient and take their time in picking the right parts. Either way, the attitude being portrayed in your posts are unnecessary and it would be great if you could contribute to the forum in more positive ways.

If ive misjudged or construed your posts in the wrong way, i apologize


----------



## TheJesus

I think he was just joining in the running joke that Ceadderman has been building forever, but that's just how I viewed it :/

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> ive read some of your other posts on other threads and they have been nothing but condescending and lacking of any type of help. This forum is here so that everyone can share information, some ppl acquire parts quicker than others, some are just more patient and take their time in picking the right parts. Either way, the attitude being portrayed in your posts are unnecessary and it would be great if you could contribute to the forum in more positive ways.
> *If ive misjudged or construed your posts in the wrong way, i apologize*


As TJ said, we're poking fun at our mate Ceadderman as his build has been WIP (work in progress) for some time. Updates were far and few and now that its coming to an end, we're all excited


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha is all good guys. I take an active part in poking fun at how long it's taken me to get here. Looks like it's gonna take just a bit longer. Did leak test til 0400am when BAM! Reservoir decided that I couldn't get my 1st build perfect.









That and my SLi fitting is gonna have to wait a bit longer too. Need a half inch Male/Female fitting and maybe a slight collar fitting to raise up the FC side to bridge the gap. For now I've got a couple Barb fittings making the connection. That an with the distance from the end of the HX 850 to the Outlet fitting I thought that would be a good place to stick a 90 fitting. Pretty sure that killed any positive flow from my pump. Turned into a dog right before my eyes. Still it wasn't TOO bad. Turning on the pump it had a pretty decent drop in the Reservoir, but once it got going it couldn't sustain it.So while I've gpt the Reservoir out I'm gonna drop a 45 in place of the 90 and hope for the best.









But yes I've finally done it and got my loop in my 932 and waiting for a successful leak test.









Fount out that my FC block covers my middle Mainboard screw with ZERO possibility of installing it. It's the FC block or the screw. Hope that won't Eff my board up.









Still, I was oooooooooooohhhhhh so so so damned close to getting my first build right on my first try.









~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Honestly Ceadder, I just can't wait to see your final build. It will be a master piece


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Yeah I don't surprise! its AMAZING pump macine. I had D5 and love it!


I love my D5's.. one of these days when I have the loop apart for cleaning I'm going to do the RPM mod on them.


----------



## Cord78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> ive read some of your other posts on other threads and they have been nothing but condescending and lacking of any type of help. This forum is here so that everyone can share information, some ppl acquire parts quicker than others, some are just more patient and take their time in picking the right parts. Either way, the attitude being portrayed in your posts are unnecessary and it would be great if you could contribute to the forum in more positive ways.
> If ive misjudged or construed your posts in the wrong way, i apologize


I actually asked the question because I really was curious as to how long it has taken him to collect all his parts. I took me almost 6 months just to collect the base parts for my system without any of the water cooling items I want to get.

Ceadder,

Did you find that it cost you less for your parts (specifically water cooling) getting everything over the long haul versus maybe having bought it all at once?


----------



## ROG1

n


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> *snip*


Can you reattach those as in-line pictures?


----------



## ROG1

hi duno how to do....


----------



## Kires

Upload the picture to your account on OCN, then copy the photo URL and when you make your next post, use the "Image" button instead of the "Attachment" button.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> hi duno how to do....


----------



## zoson

Or you can upload them to photobucket and use the 'image link' code they give you.


----------



## ROG1

oic...10q bro.....


----------



## ROG1




----------



## ROG1

haha nice thank guy.....


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice rig and nice triple post.

I also suggest that you write real words.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> oic...10q bro.....


But Nice build, get those GTX 680 under water


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Had so many leaks and stuff today, but I managed to have made it leak free for a few hours now. Hopefully it will remain that way!


Hey that's cool







You should post it in the Switch 810 thread.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cord78*
> 
> I actually asked the question because I really was curious as to how long it has taken him to collect all his parts. I took me almost 6 months just to collect the base parts for my system without any of the water cooling items I want to get.
> Ceadder,
> Did you find that it cost you less for your parts (specifically water cooling) getting everything over the long haul versus maybe having bought it all at once?


yeah thats my bad then, i must have been in a crappy mood or something lol


----------



## ROG1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Nice rig and nice triple post.
> I also suggest that you write real words.
> But Nice build, get those GTX 680 under water


hehe..and of month.... i will wet my 680..just waiting


----------



## zoson

Figured i'd post some of the finer details of my rig since you guys didn't seem all to impressed with how much stuff and cooling I crammed completely internally.

































Totally stable 6c/6t 990x at 5GHz on WATER ONLY:









Totally stable 6c/12t 990x at 4.8GHz on WATER ONLY:









Currently holding the #1 spot for 560Ti 448's on HWBOT and 3dmark... By a large margin!








http://3dmark.com/search?resultTypeId=232&linkedDisplayAdapters=0&cpuModelId=0&chipsetId=757


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Cast, Whoa, I haven't WC rig for long a while, but I really remember that the temp was slightly improvement after change the fans sets up as drop from 20c to 18C Idle, --FULL LOAD ~ never gets above 28C.. it will go back WC loop again soon when the beautiful WC block arrive by a mail!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice temps. i hope the new block continues supplying temps like those O.O
Click to expand...

Yes, I honest with you, That's a *revised version* looks alot better and was slightly improved temp than *original* after flipped the rad, not Fans..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cord78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> ive read some of your other posts on other threads and they have been nothing but condescending and lacking of any type of help. This forum is here so that everyone can share information, some ppl acquire parts quicker than others, some are just more patient and take their time in picking the right parts. Either way, the attitude being portrayed in your posts are unnecessary and it would be great if you could contribute to the forum in more positive ways.
> If ive misjudged or construed your posts in the wrong way, i apologize
> 
> 
> 
> I actually asked the question because I really was curious as to how long it has taken him to collect all his parts. I took me almost 6 months just to collect the base parts for my system without any of the water cooling items I want to get.
> 
> Ceadder,
> 
> Did you find that it cost you less for your parts (specifically water cooling) getting everything over the long haul versus maybe having bought it all at once?
Click to expand...

Well I think that it cost less due to a couple timely donations. The cost otherwise would have been the same. Just the impact on the wallet would be different. Do you want the big hurt or a bunch of little ones.









I think that this little enterprise has easily surpassed 8 months. I'd have to wade into my PMs' to see when I sold the H50 but off the top of my head 8 months is a light estimate. Of course a lot of this was based on wants and needs and not able to based on mental configuration.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cord78*
> 
> I actually asked the question because I really was curious as to how long it has taken him to collect all his parts. I took me almost 6 months just to collect the base parts for my system without any of the water cooling items I want to get.
> Ceadder,
> Did you find that it cost you less for your parts (specifically water cooling) getting everything over the long haul versus maybe having bought it all at once?
> 
> 
> 
> yeah thats my bad then, i must have been in a crappy mood or something lol
Click to expand...

The written word is often the beginning of most wars. Is all good. We friends here.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Honestly Ceadder, I just can't wait to see your final build. It will be a master piece


Don't know if it's much of a masterpiece but this is what I got goin on so far...


Spoiler: Click me!



















































Don't have the GPU in place. Didn't feel like having a leak ruin the card. But the tubing has plenty of room underneath to fit it. And as you can see, indeed there is restriction. Working on that right now. Can't do much with the Res til I get some Silicon tape but yeah...









~Ceadder


----------



## DevilDriver

Looks great Ceadder!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Lookin real good Ceadder, but I thought you would use a link adapter from CPU to Mobo block? You changed your mind?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Lookin real good Ceadder, but I thought you would use a link adapter from CPU to Mobo block? You changed your mind?


Nope, still going to do that. Just have to raise the Full Coverage fitting a bit. FC block comes up a little short. Probably about 10 mm or so. So I'll get a taller one (20mm?) and get a 10 mm to put on the CPU block to clear the EZ mount kit. That big azz nut on the post is a great mounting option but it gets in the way too.









Have I said how much I love PrimoChill LRT? This stuff is damned near unkinkable.









~Ceadder


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Zoson, that's some pretty neat stuff you've got going on there. Makes me me feel like my 4GHz i7-940 should be clocked higher.
Then again I have nothing to complain about - I can barely hear my rig and it's by no means lacking in performance.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

@ ceadder, 2 90*s and the mobo block will add restriction, but in a small loop like that you should be perfectly fine. Looks good


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Zoson, that's some pretty neat stuff you've got going on there. Makes me me feel like my 4GHz i7-940 should be clocked higher.
> Then again I have nothing to complain about - I can barely hear my rig and it's by no means lacking in performance.


I was starting to wonder if I was too lame for everyone here. :O Thanks for the feedback!

I got into watercooling for the EXACT reason you did. Silence.

If there's one thing I LOVE about my rampage 3 extreme, it's the fan control. I do not need a rheobus at all. six of the eight headers on the motherboard are very easily controllable. I run my rig at 4665 for every day use, and the fans run at about 1100rpm. When my rig loads up, they scale up based on the temperature of my cpu, and my coolant. Even gaming with load on the cpu and all three gpu's the fans only get up to about 1500rpm! Not bad at all if you're familiar with ap-15's!


----------



## wermad

Koolance has updated its site and I'm seeing some new items too:
http://koolance.com/index.php?route=common/home


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> I was starting to wonder if I was too lame for everyone here. :O Thanks for the feedback!
> I got into watercooling for the EXACT reason you did. Silence.
> If there's one thing I LOVE about my rampage 3 extreme, it's the fan control. I do not need a rheobus at all. six of the eight headers on the motherboard are very easily controllable. I run my rig at 4665 for every day use, and the fans run at about 1100rpm. When my rig loads up, they scale up based on the temperature of my cpu, and my coolant. Even gaming with load on the cpu and all three gpu's the fans only get up to about 1500rpm! Not bad at all if you're familiar with ap-15's!


Man, I just saw your post. thats a damm nice OC with the i7 990x, 90'C max, who cares









5 Ghz is awsome.


----------



## Krahe

Great job Zosan, you are right though, we do get so used to looking at "aesthetically pleasing" rigs that we forget that what matters most is whats under the hood, think we all needed a kick up the arse for forgetting that.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Koolance has updated its site and I'm seeing some new items too:
> http://koolance.com/index.php?route=common/home


omg I want to put this in my wood cabinet and mount 9 120mm's and then I won't need anymore cooling


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> omg I want to put this in my wood cabinet and mount 9 120mm's and then I won't need anymore cooling


lol why not go all the way and put an engine in your cabinet and drive it to work!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> @ ceadder, 2 90*s and the mobo block will add restriction, but in a small loop like that you should be perfectly fine. Looks good


Thanks for the feedback Salt. You sure that it's not too much restriction for the DDC-1T? I changed the 90 out for a 45 already but I'm still considering the 2 90s' on the FC to CPU.









Good thing I don't have a lot of power being required from my HX850. The 45 in place put the hose up against the edge of the PSU. Good thing there is little to no vibration there.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> lol why not go all the way and put an engine in your cabinet and drive it to work!


Desk with integrated systems with water loops and rads/heatercores are becoming really popular lately. Have you seen the recent Motm winner? Its not a bad idea for those looking to move beyond the confines of a case








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback Salt. You sure that it's not too much restriction for the DDC-1T? I changed the 90 out for a 45 already but I'm still considering the 2 90s' on the FC to CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing I don't have a lot of power being required from my HX850. The 45 in place put the hose up against the edge of the PSU. Good thing there is little to no vibration there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just don't go crazy and add a bunch of angled fittings everywhere and you should be fine. My loop is a bit complex and restrictive and my ddc 3.2 is chugging along quite nicely


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> lol why not go all the way and put an engine in your cabinet and drive it to work!
> 
> 
> 
> Desk with integrated systems with water loops and rads/heatercores are becoming really popular lately. Have you seen the recent Motm winner? Its not a bad idea for those looking to move beyond the confines of a case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback Salt. You sure that it's not too much restriction for the DDC-1T? I changed the 90 out for a 45 already but I'm still considering the 2 90s' on the FC to CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing I don't have a lot of power being required from my HX850. The 45 in place put the hose up against the edge of the PSU. Good thing there is little to no vibration there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just don't go crazy and add a bunch of angled fittings everywhere and you should be fine. My loop is a bit complex and restrictive and my ddc 3.2 is chugging along quite nicely
Click to expand...

Sweet thanks werm. I was concerned that it didn't look like there was any flow with a half filled Res and the pump was making typical pump noise. There was barely any flow coming in the top. Almost like it had a blockage. But when I bumped the power of the testing PSU, the Res filled from below and then blew out quite a bit of its contents into the loop. Eventually the whole thing was filled with zero bubbles which I kind of attribute to the Res being naturally anti turbulent. Still it was a bit disconcerting. Guess I won't know if there is a problem til I get power to the Board and pay attention to the temps.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxgamxx

There should be some sort of filter for pictures only. I just want to see some ******* builds.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> There should be some sort of filter for pictures only. I just want to see some ******* builds.


^this


----------



## mviana

My old case, By Mviana.


----------



## wermad

^^^haha, optical illusion ????

Nice build, do you have the water blocks covered by the case of the reference cooler? A little too much weight for my taste as blocks are heavy enough already


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Desk with integrated systems with water loops and rads/heatercores are becoming really popular lately. Have you seen the recent Motm winner? Its not a bad idea for those looking to move beyond the confines of a case


Yes mate am well aware of that, I was refering to the size of the rad, once again my internet skills let me down


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Does anyone have any experiences with the EK kits vs. the xspc kits?


I have an EK kit (the one with the triple radiator), I like that it comes with compression fittings... But I heared its alot more expensive then XSPC for you Americans.


----------



## andom

Finally finished... sort of. Have to get a new fan controller. The fans on my bottom most rad are not working at the moment









Oh, and sorry for the terrible quality. My camera isn't so good and I'm not a very good photographer either.


----------



## OverClocker55

Anyone know where I can get something like this? I want it to look like this and have support for 2 360mm's.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Does anyone have any experiences with the EK kits vs. the xspc kits?
> 
> 
> 
> I have an EK kit (the one with the triple radiator), I like that it comes with compression fittings... But I heared its alot more expensive then XSPC for you Americans.
Click to expand...

Meh, I think you get what you pay for to be quite honest. For $20 more you can have a solid Pump/Res and a thicker Radiator with 3/8 Masterkleer Tubing and EK Nickel Plated Comps which if I were a Shiny guy, would look absolutely gorgeous to me. As long as you don't mind getting an LT block instead of a HF Supreme it's more than worth it. Rasa kits tend to do very well everywhere else but the most important part of the kit and that's the pump. Seen too many people complain about their Rasa pump which kept me on the path of mostly EK.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get something like this? I want it to look like this and have support for 2 360mm's.


Ick, other than the wheels and handles that thing has no redeemable qualities that I can see. Thank the lord I've never seen where to get one. I might blanch on the bloke that reviewed it. I think what turns me off is the Aluminum Ribs on the side and the cheesy door handle. The only thing missing is the spring loaded pop out that keeps the door shut.









But if it does something for you I hope someone has the information you're looking for.









~Ceadder


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, I think you get what you pay for to be quite honest. For $20 more you can have a solid Pump/Res and a thicker Radiator with 3/8 Masterkleer Tubing and EK Nickel Plated Comps which if I were a Shiny guy, would look absolutely gorgeous to me. As long as you don't mind getting an LT block instead of a HF Supreme it's more than worth it. Rasa kits tend to do very well everywhere else but the most important part of the kit and that's the pump. Seen too many people complain about their Rasa pump which kept me on the path of mostly EK.


Yes, I also heard some bad things about the pumps that come with the Rasa kits, so because of that I bought the EK kit. Ow and the gorgeous looking compression fittings you get are a nice bonus.


----------



## [email protected]




----------



## LuckyNumber13

IGNORE THE DATE STAMP ON THE PICS.. i'm lazy and every time i change batteries i have to change date..didn't do it last time.
This is my first computer build let alone a liquid cooled one.
let me know what you think.
NZXT Phantom case (Modded)
Asus Z68 Deluxe Gen3 mobo
Intel I7 2700k at 4.5ghz. (1.27 v)
gtx 580 hydro copper 2 (3g)
i'm going to thread the pump in the near future so i can
have a 90 to 90 from my pump to my 1st rad. so it
doens't part block the view of the res.


----------



## zdude

i didn't think that the 580 was out in 07














:thumb:


----------



## LuckyNumber13

lol... yeah laziness will be the death of me..lol
too lazy to change the date or even make it so it doesn't show the date at all.
i will be building a new rig shortly with the new ivy bridge and gtx 680
(although heard something about 780 at end of summer? not sure..might hold out.)
will try not to get lazy when i take pics of those.lol..


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, I think you get what you pay for to be quite honest. For $20 more you can have a solid Pump/Res and a thicker Radiator with 3/8 Masterkleer Tubing and EK Nickel Plated Comps which if I were a Shiny guy, would look absolutely gorgeous to me. As long as you don't mind getting an LT block instead of a HF Supreme it's more than worth it. Rasa kits tend to do very well everywhere else but the most important part of the kit and that's the pump. Seen too many people complain about their Rasa pump which kept me on the path of mostly EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Yes, I also heard some bad things about the pumps that come with the Rasa kits, so because of that I bought the EK kit. Ow and the gorgeous looking compression fittings you get are a nice bonus.


The pump can be hit or miss, some have had problems with them making a rattle noise. I was one of the first to get a bad pump and XSPC is very aware that some pumps have problems and have been very good about replacing them. As long as you have a good one, they are super quiet, you have to put you ear right up to it to here it. With how many people that are in the Rasa kit club and the amount that have had bad pumps, I would say it's less than a 2% chance to get a bad one. Both kits are great, they both have their good points and bad points. I'd say if you are going to spend the money on the EK, you might as well go custom. The Rasa kits cheap enough to warrant using the kit for a first time setup.

Pumps:
XSPC - very quiet, strong enough for 3 WB and 2 rads, can't replace with out getting a new res
EK - Never used the 2.0, have read the 2.0 would not be as quiet (still not loud) but will be stronger, the mount takes up a lot of room

Res:
XSPC - Bay mounted (good or bad depending on your setup), if you want to replace it you must get a new pump too
EK - can be tricky to mount depending on your setup, only works on the 2.0 pump, pain to mount to the pump, I have the 4.0 combo

Blocks:
XSPC - performs great, looks OK, AMD mounting sucks
EK - performs OK, looks good

Rads:
XSPC - RX's are pretty much kings for a quiet setup, needs very little air flow looks good. RS's perform good but needs higher speed fans
EK - Great paint, performs good, needs higher speed fans

Fans:
XSPC - Very strong fans, will make some noise at 100%
EK - never used them or read anything about them

Fittings-
XSPC - 7/16 tubing on 1/2 barbs, very safe and looks very clean, not a lot of bling
EK - compression fittings, cost more money if you want to add blocks with the same fittings, super safe as long as you set it up right

Tubing:
XSPC - 99% crap, stiff, turns brown fast, holds water I guess, lol
EK - Can't be as bad as XSPC's

Accessories:
XSPC - silver screws, external rad mounts, clamps, and throw away TIM
EK - silver screws, blue coolant (not sure if it is safe from gunking), good TIM


----------



## zdude

wrong thread


----------



## LuckyNumber13

the new ivy comp will be liquid cooled of coarse..lol
i already have the pump (w/flow control) , tubing (white/uv blue) 1/2ID, 3/4"OD, compression fittings(all compression fittings are Bitspower), rad (XSPC 360)
and fans (3 Triebwerk - Performance Radiator Fan 3000RPM 215CFM )
in everyone elses opinion do you think i would need another rad (Cooling the new ivy + GPU)
i am not only looking for bare min. operating specs but def. looking to OC. so will need
to cool that baby down a bit more.
what kind of fans is everyone else using?. so far i've only been getting ridicously over
performance ones where i don't even push them to half potential really
(Currently i have 3 scythe Gentle Typhoons at 150 CFM and 5400RPM)
(need at least 30w per channel for those fans).


----------



## mviana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^haha, optical illusion ????
> Nice build, do you have the water blocks covered by the case of the reference cooler? A little too much weight for my taste as blocks are heavy enough already


You can better understand the work that was performed danlho a look at these photos,,, you can check the topic below.
Instead, it was lighter with the universal block than with the full block, does not anyone do a job like this.

http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/348950-cosmos-black-red-mviana-5.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mviana*
> 
> You can better understand the work that was performed danlho a look at these photos,,, you can check the topic below.
> Instead, it was lighter with the universal block than with the full block, does not anyone do a job like this.
> http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/348950-cosmos-black-red-mviana-5.html


I see, you kept the stock turbine to cool the vram and vrm. Still kinda of defeats the purpose of going water and alleviating yourself of the stock noisy cooler. Most who decide to go with universal blocks will have a bracket that cools the vram and vrm (like swiftech) or they add heatsinks. The later you just need some airflow to cool the heatsinks used for the vram and vrm:





After searching google, I did come upon several cooling configurations like yours. Well, if it works then have it. Very nice build non-the-less mate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Yes mate am well aware of that, I was refering to the size of the rad, once again my internet skills let me down


Don't worry about it mate







. I started with a Thermaltake "Big Water"














. Some of us learn as we go, or by trial and error, etc., etc.


----------



## Sixt

New pics.

Almost finished.


----------



## mviana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I see, you kept the stock turbine to cool the vram and vrm. Still kinda of defeats the purpose of going water and alleviating yourself of the stock noisy cooler. Most who decide to go with universal blocks will have a bracket that cools the vram and vrm (like swiftech) or they add heatsinks. The later you just need some airflow to cool the heatsinks used for the vram and vrm:
> 
> 
> After searching google, I did come upon several cooling configurations like yours. Well, if it works then have it. Very nice build non-the-less mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry about it mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I started with a Thermaltake "Big Water"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Some of us learn as we go, or by trial and error, etc., etc.


As you can see I'm using both systems, water and air, creating hybrid,,,, and thus leaving the video card like the original I am the first who did it.

Sorry, forgot to pass the link to the topic, following
http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/348950-cosmos-black-red-mviana-5.html


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I see, you kept the stock turbine to cool the vram and vrm. Still kinda of defeats the purpose of going water and alleviating yourself of the stock noisy cooler. Most who decide to go with universal blocks will have a bracket that cools the vram and vrm (like swiftech) or they add heatsinks. The later you just need some airflow to cool the heatsinks used for the vram and vrm:


Although, he can manually set the fan to like 15 or 20% since it only has to cool the VRAM/VRM


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mviana*
> 
> As you can see I'm using both systems, water and air, creating hybrid,,,, and thus leaving the video card like the original *I am the first who did it.*
> Sorry, forgot to pass the link to the topic, following
> http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/348950-cosmos-black-red-mviana-5.html


Really?!?!?!? Not to crap on your build nor your skills but I think I have seen this "hybrid" done before using uni gpu blocks and closed loop systems (ie h50). I've seen some manufacturers do this as well. Or maybe I didn't understand your statement well, ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Although, he can manually set the fan to like 15 or 20% since it only has to cool the VRAM/VRM


Yeah, that's true. He's got nvidia which is a tad bit less noisy than amd reference coolers.


----------



## Rops84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mviana*
> 
> As you can see I'm using both systems, water and air, creating hybrid,,,, and thus leaving the video card like the original I am the first who did it.
> Sorry, forgot to pass the link to the topic, following
> http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/348950-cosmos-black-red-mviana-5.html


I did it too...only I didn't put the plastic shroud back on the card cause the fan on the card was too loud for my liking, so i just got a larger fan... and cutting out the the fans is a NO NO for me. Don't want to lose warranty...
I get better temps than with a full cover block...and the fan is inaudible(i keep it @ 30 % in MSI Afterburner)...


Spoiler: Pics of my build here













Anyway +1 rep for the work u did, it looks great!


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> The pump can be hit or miss, some have had problems with them making a rattle noise. I was one of the first to get a bad pump and XSPC is very aware that some pumps have problems and have been very good about replacing them. As long as you have a good one, they are super quiet, you have to put you ear right up to it to here it. With how many people that are in the Rasa kit club and the amount that have had bad pumps, I would say it's less than a 2% chance to get a bad one. Both kits are great, they both have their good points and bad points. I'd say if you are going to spend the money on the EK, you might as well go custom. The Rasa kits cheap enough to warrant using the kit for a first time setup.
> Pumps:
> XSPC - very quiet, strong enough for 3 WB and 2 rads, can't replace with out getting a new res
> EK - Never used the 2.0, have read the 2.0 would not be as quiet (still not loud) but will be stronger, the mount takes up a lot of room
> Res:
> XSPC - Bay mounted (good or bad depending on your setup), if you want to replace it you must get a new pump too
> EK - can be tricky to mount depending on your setup, only works on the 2.0 pump, pain to mount to the pump, I have the 4.0 combo
> Blocks:
> XSPC - performs great, looks OK, AMD mounting sucks
> EK - performs OK, looks good
> Rads:
> XSPC - RX's are pretty much kings for a quiet setup, needs very little air flow looks good. RS's perform good but needs higher speed fans
> EK - Great paint, performs good, needs higher speed fans
> Fans:
> XSPC - Very strong fans, will make some noise at 100%
> EK - never used them or read anything about them
> Fittings-
> XSPC - 7/16 tubing on 1/2 barbs, very safe and looks very clean, not a lot of bling
> EK - compression fittings, cost more money if you want to add blocks with the same fittings, super safe as long as you set it up right
> Tubing:
> XSPC - 99% crap, stiff, turns brown fast, holds water I guess, lol
> EK - Can't be as bad as XSPC's
> Accessories:
> XSPC - silver screws, external rad mounts, clamps, and throw away TIM
> EK - silver screws, blue coolant (not sure if it is safe from gunking), good TIM


I agree with everything save the blocks, ek makes better ones


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ick, other than the wheels and handles that thing has no redeemable qualities that I can see. Thank the lord I've never seen where to get one. I might blanch on the bloke that reviewed it. *I think what turns me off is the Aluminum Ribs on the side* and the cheesy door handle. The only thing missing is the spring loaded pop out that keeps the door shut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if it does something for you I hope someone has the information you're looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


you do realize that is how that case is cooled, right? without the fins it would need more fans.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> you do realize that is how that case is cooled, right? without the fins it would need more fans.


I think he prefers this







:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> The pump can be hit or miss, some have had problems with them making a rattle noise. I was one of the first to get a bad pump and XSPC is very aware that some pumps have problems and have been very good about replacing them. As long as you have a good one, they are super quiet, you have to put you ear right up to it to here it. With how many people that are in the Rasa kit club and the amount that have had bad pumps, I would say it's less than a 2% chance to get a bad one. Both kits are great, they both have their good points and bad points. I'd say if you are going to spend the money on the EK, you might as well go custom. The Rasa kits cheap enough to warrant using the kit for a first time setup.
> Pumps:
> XSPC - very quiet, strong enough for 3 WB and 2 rads, can't replace with out getting a new res
> EK - Never used the 2.0, have read the 2.0 would not be as quiet (still not loud) but will be stronger, the mount takes up a lot of room
> Res:
> XSPC - Bay mounted (good or bad depending on your setup), if you want to replace it you must get a new pump too
> EK - can be tricky to mount depending on your setup, only works on the 2.0 pump, pain to mount to the pump, I have the 4.0 combo
> Blocks:
> XSPC - performs great, looks OK, AMD mounting sucks
> EK - performs OK, looks good
> Rads:
> XSPC - RX's are pretty much kings for a quiet setup, needs very little air flow looks good. RS's perform good but needs higher speed fans
> EK - Great paint, performs good, needs higher speed fans
> Fans:
> XSPC - Very strong fans, will make some noise at 100%
> EK - never used them or read anything about them
> Fittings-
> XSPC - 7/16 tubing on 1/2 barbs, very safe and looks very clean, not a lot of bling
> EK - compression fittings, cost more money if you want to add blocks with the same fittings, super safe as long as you set it up right
> Tubing:
> XSPC - 99% crap, stiff, turns brown fast, holds water I guess, lol
> EK - Can't be as bad as XSPC's
> Accessories:
> XSPC - silver screws, external rad mounts, clamps, and throw away TIM
> EK - silver screws, blue coolant (not sure if it is safe from gunking), good TIM
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with everything save the blocks, ek makes better ones
Click to expand...

Also if you've used Yate Loon fans, those are the ones that come with the EK kits. Great static pressure that give higher priced fans a run for their money and cheap enough to replace should you lose one or two. $4 each cannot be beat imho. I coulda gone with 12mm Scythes for my low profile build but I love how Yate Loon fans perform.









If you go with the HF Supreme block and sell off the LT block or keep it for emergency sake, it will give any block a run for its money. I built a custom loop but no way I could build this loop for the same price that is being charged for the EK H30 kit at $230. If you want the Supreme Block it's gonna cost but the Radiator is better than what comes with the H30 kit and the 2.0 doesn't come with the attachable Reservoir. Comes with what looks to be a 150mm MultiOption Basic and that kit averages $358 at the moment as they are newly released kits as far as I'm aware of.

Without my FC Mainboard block I would probably have about $300 into my system if I bought everything BNIB. Radiator would be $55, Res would be between $35 to $110, Pump block would be $60, pump would still be $35 since I bought that from bmaverick and intended to do so since last Summer. EK Supreme HF block right now would be $90 and Fittings were $7 each x 8. Then there is tubing fans shrouds connection kit for radiator to fan x3 and TIM which comes with the HF Supreme but I insist on G751. My Calculator says before the unlisted prices with the Reservoir I have right now would be $409 before shipping too. 1/2" fittings aren't much more than 3/8 inch. So I'm not accounting for that change in sizing in the math.

And no, I do not work for EK.









The main issue with EK is that they had the Nickel issue and that seems to be an issue with everyone at one point or other. What really torqued people wasn't so much the issue, but how they were quick to blame the end user. They've since dealt with it but it's gonna take some time for them to recoup the loss. End user doesn't like to be made the scape goat regardless of how true or not the finger pointing is.

Add my FC block? Yeah that's another $120. It's awesome that we have such great members here at OCN otherwise I'd still be waiting to get my loop together by piecemeal.









~Ceadder


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ick, other than the wheels and handles that thing has no redeemable qualities that I can see. Thank the lord I've never seen where to get one. I might blanch on the bloke that reviewed it. I think what turns me off is the Aluminum Ribs on the side and the cheesy door handle. The only thing missing is the spring loaded pop out that keeps the door shut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if it does something for you I hope someone has the information you're looking for.


Haha if it were me I couldn't stand the wheels and handles, but then again I guess that's what makes the world go round...

In other news, my MO-RA3 arrived today and I just got it plumbed in- the thing is a beast! Can't wait to see what the temps look like when the bubbles fade out... Right now I'm just running it passively, when I get my 9 GTs wired then I'll put then on it and really see what she can do


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixt*
> 
> New pics.
> Almost finished.


Thats actually really good. +1
I just redid my LAN rig.
Took out the 80mm RAD



DON'T mind the cable management.
I'm working on it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ick, other than the wheels and handles that thing has no redeemable qualities that I can see. Thank the lord I've never seen where to get one. I might blanch on the bloke that reviewed it. I think what turns me off is the Aluminum Ribs on the side and the cheesy door handle. The only thing missing is the spring loaded pop out that keeps the door shut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if it does something for you I hope someone has the information you're looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha if it were me I couldn't stand the wheels and handles, but then again I guess that's what makes the world go round...
> 
> In other news, my MO-RA3 arrived today and I just got it plumbed in- the thing is a beast! Can't wait to see what the temps look like when the bubbles fade out... Right now I'm just running it passively, when I get my 9 GTs wired then I'll put then on it and really see what she can do
Click to expand...

Well I'm not too fond of wheels or handles either but I've found myself wishing I had handles on my 932 before adding water cooling. Not too many LAN straps will fit this bad boy for even short jaunts to the Kitchen. I kind like those wheels because the stabilizers can act as feet though. That's one of my next moves is a good set of Case feet that are black and are about as thick as a pair of stacked CM 932 feet. Maybe a little thicker. But only if they look good and are black. Can't be some cheap rinky dink out of place looking case feet.









Those kinda look cool since they are black and red. Though I'm not too fond of open body wheels. That's cheap looking imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I'm not too fond of wheels or handles either but I've found myself wishing I had handles on my 932 before adding water cooling. Not too many LAN straps will fit this bad boy for even short jaunts to the Kitchen. I kind like those wheels because the stabilizers can act as feet though. That's one of my next moves is a good set of Case feet that are black and are about as thick as a pair of stacked CM 932 feet. Maybe a little thicker. But only if they look good and are black. Can't be some cheap rinky dink out of place looking case feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those kinda look cool since they are black and red. Though I'm not too fond of open body wheels. That's cheap looking imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You should talk to FannBlade about making you a custom set of feet. He made the ones for my build (along with everything else obviously) and they're awesome. He's got that CNC setup now and could either do something on the lathe or the mill depending on what you wanted. Oh and he does awesome paint


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I'm not too fond of wheels or handles either but I've found myself wishing I had handles on my 932 before adding water cooling. Not too many LAN straps will fit this bad boy for even short jaunts to the Kitchen. I kind like those wheels because the stabilizers can act as feet though. That's one of my next moves is a good set of Case feet that are black and are about as thick as a pair of stacked CM 932 feet. Maybe a little thicker. But only if they look good and are black. Can't be some cheap rinky dink out of place looking case feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those kinda look cool since they are black and red. Though I'm not too fond of open body wheels. That's cheap looking imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should talk to FannBlade about making you a custom set of feet. He made the ones for my build (along with everything else obviously) and they're awesome. He's got that CNC setup now and could either do something on the lathe or the mill depending on what you wanted. Oh and he does awesome paint
Click to expand...

lol I'll definitely think about it but I've got something I'm considering that is gonna be a bit different. Depending on the cost of the material of course. For now I'm just concentrating on the loop. Once I get that sorted out everything else should come at a quicker clip than previously undertaken.









Mostly cause when I decide to do something by hand, I just do it. First loop though, I had to spend lots of time researching and being inspired by the members here in this thread. No one person in particular, but all just as important to this creation.









Thank you all for the inspirations Ladies an Gents.









~Ceadder


----------



## fuadm424

Rig is now complete! Replaced all the barbs with monsoon fittings, which are great and relatively cheap.

This is my first go at water cooling, so I wasnt sure what to expect for temps.

For ambient at 29c:

i5 2500k @ 4.5 GHz 1.288v load temp = 55c
SLI 570s @ 850 MHz 1.05v load temp = 48c

Temps are much lower than air, and quieter too! I was thinking about adding an EX120 since I have space, but would that really make a difference?


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> 
> 
> Rig is now complete! Replaced all the barbs with monsoon fittings, which are great and relatively cheap.
> This is my first go at water cooling, so I wasnt sure what to expect for temps.
> For ambient at 29c:
> i5 2500k @ 4.5 GHz 1.288v load temp = 55c
> SLI 570s @ 850 MHz 1.05v load temp = 48c
> Temps are much lower than air, and quieter too! I was thinking about adding an EX120 since I have space, but would that really make a difference?


Monsoon fittings certainly make the whole build look more interesting









At what RPM you are getting these temps?


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow that was a pretty nice drop in temps on both the CPU and the NB...

I'm folding at 100% and AVG is scanning to catch up with the couple days being down. CPU is running 36c according to PC Probe II. Hardware Monitor says 37c.

NB is running 42c as well. Before scanning NB was in the 30s'. Freakin awesome.























Since the system is quite dark with all but the front LED fan, I'll take updated pics tomorrow. Gotta clean up around the desk first.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow that was a pretty nice drop in temps on both the CPU and the NB...
> I'm folding at 100% and AVG is scanning to catch up with the couple days being down. CPU is running 36c according to PC Probe II. Hardware Monitor says 37c.
> NB is running 42c as well. Before scanning NB was in the 30s'. Freakin awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the system is quite dark with all but the front LED fan, I'll take updated pics tomorrow. Gotta clean up around the desk first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That CHIVF NB still causing a little heat ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow that was a pretty nice drop in temps on both the CPU and the NB...
> I'm folding at 100% and AVG is scanning to catch up with the couple days being down. CPU is running 36c according to PC Probe II. Hardware Monitor says 37c.
> NB is running 42c as well. Before scanning NB was in the 30s'. Freakin awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the system is quite dark with all but the front LED fan, I'll take updated pics tomorrow. Gotta clean up around the desk first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That CHIVF NB still causing a little heat ?
Click to expand...

Actually I think temps would be lower still if all 3 of my fans were working. 2 of them are the one under the top needs some TLC I think. Contacted seller to see what if anything can be done. So honestly my temps should be a bit lower than what they are at the moment.









I'll check it tomorrow. Gonna let it run through the night to gain some PPD.









~Ceadder


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rig is now complete! *Replaced all the barbs with monsoon fittings, which are great and relatively cheap*.
> This is my first go at water cooling, so I wasnt sure what to expect for temps.
> For ambient at 29c:
> i5 2500k @ 4.5 GHz 1.288v load temp = 55c
> SLI 570s @ 850 MHz 1.05v load temp = 48c
> Temps are much lower than air, and quieter too! I was thinking about adding an EX120 since I have space, but would that really make a difference?


I have 2 monsoons in my loop, and Love them. Only thing I noticed is, with the 1/2in inner 3/4 outer tubing the tool does not work. but I was able to tighten them by hand with out issue.


----------



## Hellish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mviana*
> 
> You can better understand the work that was performed danlho a look at these photos,,, you can check the topic below.
> Instead, it was lighter with the universal block than with the full block, does not anyone do a job like this.
> http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/348950-cosmos-black-red-mviana-5.html


I think these are amazing.


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> Monsoon fittings certainly make the whole build look more interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At what RPM you are getting these temps?


Im using Scythe Slip stream @ 1200 RPM push for 3 positions and push/pull for one position. I was thinking of placing one more radiator as an intake at the rear fan position.


----------



## Egameman

applying for the club


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> applying for the club


that liquid


----------



## zoson

Guys, I think it's time we break this misconception that Yate Loon fans are competitors to the likes of Gentle Typhoons.

*Flat out - They are not even close.*

Originally I started out thinking a fan was a fan, and I went with Enermax Magma's. They were a complete failure on my GTX and GTS rads.

So I thought to myself, lets get some low density rads, and I got some SR-1's. They did fine on the SR-1's, but the cooling capacity was still not enough.

So I decided to switch to 'the peoples champion' of fans, which as Ceddar has made clear... People think are good.

Yes, they push way more air and have much higher pressure than the Enermax fans, however... They are NOT quiet. They are easily twice as loud as the Enermax fans at any RPM above 1400RPM. Cooling on the SR-1's was good, so I decided to switch back to my two GTX rads and one GTS rad. I bought three more YL D12-SH's and mounted them in full push/pull.

AGAIN, I found myself facing complete failure, even in full push/pull configuration. WORSE performance than the SR-1's with a single fan on them.

I got fed up and bought 6Gentle Typhoon AP-15's to replace all the YL's with. Spent the 15 hours it takes to break down, replace all the fans, rebuild, and refill my rig. I went from a 4.4ghz 100% stable max OC at 1.4375v with Yate Loons, to a 4.665ghz 100% stable max OC at the SAME voltage.

My temps dropped around 15C. My full load coolant delta dropped from 12C to 8C.

I don't know who started the rumor that YL's are even close to GT's. But it's just a cruel joke on anyone who buys them. They're loud, do not provide a significant performance advantage over other comparably priced fans, and they click when undervolted. I don't know why reviewers seem to be backing this ridiculousness up, but it looks like skinnee and martin finally proved it by doing the exact same thing I did. Mounting YL's on a GTX rad and comparing it to GT's on a GTX rad.

Bottom line is you get what you pay for. Anyone who has owned GT's and YL's knows that the GT's make the YL's look at feel like TOYS. Cheap toys.


----------



## mviana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellish*
> 
> I think these are amazing.


Thank you, in the topic has more.


----------



## nycste

Long winded post and glad I read it I was under the impression that yes ap-15s were great fans if not the best if you support spending 15-20 per fan and that adds up quickly.

Onto the gossip please link or show the results other then your own that prove in any way shape or form that ap-15s outperform gate loons by a ratio of at least 4x better performance because value vs performance ratio is already 4x more expensive for great fans.

Facts
1. Ap-15s move great air and are super quiet compared to equal priced fans.

2. Ap-15s are 4x the price of the best gate loons at 120mm correct me if I am wrong.

3. Yate loons do not click at low voltage unless you buy the knockoffs aka not full legit from vendor there sadly have been articles covering this debate and its fact. There are at least three versions of YL with differences in everything.

4. Ap-15s hit 1850s and YL hit 2200rpms for the fans in question and yes YL are louder and push more air fact.

5. I have not seen one full review that proves ap-15s out perform YL in terms of coolant only and instead I have seen YL outperform ap-15s on thicker rads by a lot.

I have not listed any opinions only facts if anything is wrong please correct this is also not the place to argue fans and I do not work or support any computer company I jjust strive to find the facts.

To the above poster if all you did was switch 6 fans ran the same tests and provided results I'd gladly credit your findings for your setup.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> *rant*


No one has ever tried to compare the performance or quality of GTs to YLs directly- the balance is from a price/performance standpoint. The argument is that the Yates cost 1/3 of what the GTs usually go for, and they're generally thought to offer much more than 1/3 of the performance. As for the clicking, I've run Yate SH's (high speed) 120's on my fan controller for years no with absolutely no clicking. Granted I got the 'good Yates' from Petra's (back when it still existed) and now Sidewinder. I can't comment on the performance of the cheaper Yates, but at $5/fan mine are a winner to me. I just got GTs from the group buy and I'm really excited to try them out, but don't bash Yates too hard, they really are a solid budget part of a build. Also, you should check to see if the clicking is beinng caused by a lack of oil and consider adding some- the bearings on Yates are often dry depending on where you bought them from, a little oil does wonders


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: zoson's GT review



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Guys, I think it's time we break this misconception that Yate Loon fans are competitors to the likes of Gentle Typhoons.
> 
> *Flat out - They are not even close.*
> 
> Originally I started out thinking a fan was a fan, and I went with Enermax Magma's. They were a complete failure on my GTX and GTS rads.
> 
> So I thought to myself, lets get some low density rads, and I got some SR-1's. They did fine on the SR-1's, but the cooling capacity was still not enough.
> 
> So I decided to switch to 'the peoples champion' of fans, which as Ceddar has made clear... People think are good.
> 
> Yes, they push way more air and have much higher pressure than the Enermax fans, however... They are NOT quiet. They are easily twice as loud as the Enermax fans at any RPM above 1400RPM. Cooling on the SR-1's was good, so I decided to switch back to my two GTX rads and one GTS rad. I bought three more YL D12-SH's and mounted them in full push/pull.
> 
> AGAIN, I found myself facing complete failure, even in full push/pull configuration. WORSE performance than the SR-1's with a single fan on them.
> 
> I got fed up and bought 6Gentle Typhoon AP-15's to replace all the YL's with. Spent the 15 hours it takes to break down, replace all the fans, rebuild, and refill my rig. I went from a 4.4ghz 100% stable max OC at 1.4375v with Yate Loons, to a 4.665ghz 100% stable max OC at the SAME voltage.
> 
> My temps dropped around 15C. My full load coolant delta dropped from 12C to 8C.
> 
> I don't know who started the rumor that YL's are even close to GT's. But it's just a cruel joke on anyone who buys them. They're loud, do not provide a significant performance advantage over other comparably priced fans, and they click when undervolted. I don't know why reviewers seem to be backing this ridiculousness up, but it looks like skinnee and martin finally proved it by doing the exact same thing I did. Mounting YL's on a GTX rad and comparing it to GT's on a GTX rad.
> 
> Bottom line is you get what you pay for. Anyone who has owned GT's and YL's knows that the GT's make the YL's look at feel like TOYS. Cheap toys.








Spoiler: nycste's post



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Long winded post and glad I read it I was under the impression that yes ap-15s were great fans if not the best if you support spending 15-20 per fan and that adds up quickly.
> 
> Onto the gossip please link or show the results other then your own that prove in any way shape or form that ap-15s outperform gate loons by a ratio of at least 4x better performance because value vs performance ratio is already 4x more expensive for great fans.
> 
> Facts
> 1. Ap-15s move great air and are super quiet compared to equal priced fans.
> 
> 2. Ap-15s are 4x the price of the best gate loons at 120mm correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> 3. Yate loons do not click at low voltage unless you buy the knockoffs aka not full legit from vendor there sadly have been articles covering this debate and its fact. There are at least three versions of YL with differences in everything.
> 
> 4. Ap-15s hit 1850s and YL hit 2200rpms for the fans in question and yes YL are louder and push more air fact.
> 
> 5. I have not seen one full review that proves ap-15s out perform YL in terms of coolant only and instead I have seen YL outperform ap-15s on thicker rads by a lot.
> 
> I have not listed any opinions only facts if anything is wrong please correct this is also not the place to argue fans and I do not work or support any computer company I jjust strive to find the facts.
> 
> To the above poster if all you did was switch 6 fans ran the same tests and provided results I'd gladly credit your findings for your setup.






I do believe that SR1 has low FPI, right? If so well there you are. Yate Loon still king and champ based on cost to performance ratio.

Some fans DO click when undervolted. But not all of them do this. Never had a Yate Loon do it for me yet. Not sure why this is, but no YL has clicked when I've undervolted it.

If you're willing to spend the money on GTs', they are damned good fans. I can't see doing so for the same results though. That's like shipping an item via USPS and then decrying the superiority of UPS because the same item shipped with very similar results except doorbell service.

Now, my point. The SR1 has low FPI. Something like 9 or 10 fins per inch. I'd have to look it up but that's what I believe it is. So a slower Yate Loon should yield better results than a faster one. So the GTs' while being very good performers, haven't truly "beaten" the Yate Loon. Just beaten that model of Yate Loon. There are three models of these fans. Low, Medium and High Speed Silents.

On my Black Ice GT stealth (30FPI) Yate Loon Medium and High Speed models would be better since they force more air through the vanes.

As far as quiet, since changing my system to 3 Yates and 1 stock 200mm my system is really quiet. I do have a dead fan though so I'm not proclaiming from roof tops the superiority in silence. Just saying that my system is MUCH quieter now that I'm running 3+1. We'll see once I get this fan figured out and running again.









But try running them both on a radiator like mine. I bet the results are that of USPS/UPS and getting similar to the same results.









~Ceadder


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> applying for the club


Love the coolant colour







I would go for dyes as well but I absolutely hate aligning o-rings when assembling blocks after cleaning


----------



## LCTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Guys, I think it's time we break this misconception that Yate Loon fans are competitors to the likes of Gentle Typhoons.
> *Flat out - They are not even close.*
> Originally I started out thinking a fan was a fan, and I went with Enermax Magma's. They were a complete failure on my GTX and GTS rads.
> So I thought to myself, lets get some low density rads, and I got some SR-1's. They did fine on the SR-1's, but the cooling capacity was still not enough.
> So I decided to switch to 'the peoples champion' of fans, which as Ceddar has made clear... People think are good.
> Yes, they push way more air and have much higher pressure than the Enermax fans, however... They are NOT quiet. They are easily twice as loud as the Enermax fans at any RPM above 1400RPM. Cooling on the SR-1's was good, so I decided to switch back to my two GTX rads and one GTS rad. I bought three more YL D12-SH's and mounted them in full push/pull.
> AGAIN, I found myself facing complete failure, even in full push/pull configuration. WORSE performance than the SR-1's with a single fan on them.
> I got fed up and bought 6Gentle Typhoon AP-15's to replace all the YL's with. Spent the 15 hours it takes to break down, replace all the fans, rebuild, and refill my rig. I went from a 4.4ghz 100% stable max OC at 1.4375v with Yate Loons, to a 4.665ghz 100% stable max OC at the SAME voltage.
> My temps dropped around 15C. My full load coolant delta dropped from 12C to 8C.
> I don't know who started the rumor that YL's are even close to GT's. But it's just a cruel joke on anyone who buys them. They're loud, do not provide a significant performance advantage over other comparably priced fans, and they click when undervolted. I don't know why reviewers seem to be backing this ridiculousness up, but it looks like skinnee and martin finally proved it by doing the exact same thing I did. Mounting YL's on a GTX rad and comparing it to GT's on a GTX rad.
> Bottom line is you get what you pay for. Anyone who has owned GT's and YL's knows that the GT's make the YL's look at feel like TOYS. Cheap toys.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Long winded post and glad I read it I was under the impression that yes ap-15s were great fans if not the best if you support spending 15-20 per fan and that adds up quickly.
> Onto the gossip please link or show the results other then your own that prove in any way shape or form that ap-15s outperform gate loons by a ratio of at least 4x better performance because value vs performance ratio is already 4x more expensive for great fans.
> Facts
> 1. Ap-15s move great air and are super quiet compared to equal priced fans.
> 2. Ap-15s are 4x the price of the best gate loons at 120mm correct me if I am wrong.
> 3. Yate loons do not click at low voltage unless you buy the knockoffs aka not full legit from vendor there sadly have been articles covering this debate and its fact. There are at least three versions of YL with differences in everything.
> 4. Ap-15s hit 1850s and YL hit 2200rpms for the fans in question and yes YL are louder and push more air fact.
> 5. I have not seen one full review that proves ap-15s out perform YL in terms of coolant only and instead I have seen YL outperform ap-15s on thicker rads by a lot.
> I have not listed any opinions only facts if anything is wrong please correct this is also not the place to argue fans and I do not work or support any computer company I jjust strive to find the facts.
> To the above poster if all you did was switch 6 fans ran the same tests and provided results I'd gladly credit your findings for your setup.


Check my post on the Yate Loon fans and controller I use...I think they are a great fan for the price performance ratio. Also, I never hear any noise from them whatsoever. I agree, if you buy from a reputable dealer, you should get the real thing.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1209048/official-nzxt-switch-810-thread/2730#post_16979283


----------



## bundymania




----------



## TheJesus

http://www.overclockers.com/65-fans-tested-megahalems/
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2009/05/05/r2-fan-testing/
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/

These are the facts, you decide how to interpret them









I still think YLs are price/performance champions (I don't use them, just my opinion. I use the NZXT FN120s that do really well in the first link). Just like a 2500K is price/performance champion. Its not going to beat the more expensive 2600K, but it'll beat the 2100.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay back to the eye candy...







Once I feel a bit more comfortable with how the system is running, I'll be removing the teflon tape from the tubing. But system is up and running now and doing very well. I love it.









~Ceadder


----------



## thfallen

Ceadderman wow its nice good job.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Long winded post and glad I read it I was under the impression that yes ap-15s were great fans if not the best if you support spending 15-20 per fan and that adds up quickly.
> Onto the gossip please link or show the results other then your own that prove in any way shape or form that ap-15s outperform gate loons by a ratio of at least 4x better performance because value vs performance ratio is already 4x more expensive for great fans.
> Facts
> 1. Ap-15s move great air and are super quiet compared to equal priced fans.
> 2. Ap-15s are 4x the price of the best gate loons at 120mm correct me if I am wrong.
> 3. Yate loons do not click at low voltage unless you buy the knockoffs aka not full legit from vendor there sadly have been articles covering this debate and its fact. There are at least three versions of YL with differences in everything.
> 4. Ap-15s hit 1850s and YL hit 2200rpms for the fans in question and yes YL are louder and push more air fact.
> 5. I have not seen one full review that proves ap-15s out perform YL in terms of coolant only and instead I have seen YL outperform ap-15s on thicker rads by a lot.
> I have not listed any opinions only facts if anything is wrong please correct this is also not the place to argue fans and I do not work or support any computer company I jjust strive to find the facts.
> To the above poster if all you did was switch 6 fans ran the same tests and provided results I'd gladly credit your findings for your setup.


1. True.
2. False. YL D12-SH's are ~7. GT AP-15's are around $16(Aquatuning.us). Closer to 2x than 4x the price.
3. I got my YL's from Petra's. They're 'legit' curved blade. They click. Skinnee and Martin BOTH noted the clicking on _ALL_ variants of YL's when undervolted.
4. Louder yes, push more air in free standing air, yes. Push more air through a rad? No. Significantly less.
5. Have a look at these:
http://skinneelabs.com/hwlabs-gtx-360-radiator-review/4/ <--- Yate Loon D12SH and SL's for 500rpm - 1800rpm testing, Ultra Kaze's for up to 2800RPM testing
http://skinneelabs.com/hwlabs-gtx-360-radiator-review-data-supplement/3/ <--- Gentle Typhoon AP-15's and AP-30's for 600rpm to 3000RPM testing

Immediately relevant charts:
Yate Loon/Ultra Kaze:









GT AP-15/AP-30:








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> No one has ever tried to compare the performance or quality of GTs to YLs directly- the balance is from a price/performance standpoint. The argument is that the Yates cost 1/3 of what the GTs usually go for, and they're generally thought to offer much more than 1/3 of the performance. As for the clicking, I've run Yate SH's (high speed) 120's on my fan controller for years no with absolutely no clicking. Granted I got the 'good Yates' from Petra's (back when it still existed) and now Sidewinder. I can't comment on the performance of the cheaper Yates, but at $5/fan mine are a winner to me. I just got GTs from the group buy and I'm really excited to try them out, but don't bash Yates too hard, they really are a solid budget part of a build. Also, you should check to see if the clicking is beinng caused by a lack of oil and consider adding some- the bearings on Yates are often dry depending on where you bought them from, a little oil does wonders


See above.
It's should be rather obvious by the separation in the GTX over the other radiators how much more pressure the AP-15's are putting out, and how much actual air is making it through the radiator.

Not to mention Skinnee mentions in his review that the AP-15's have shown that GTX's can be used with fans that arn't high speed.
http://skinneelabs.com/hwlabs-gtx-360-radiator-review-data-supplement/3/
Quote:


> The last time we took the GTX360 for a spin the sweet spot fan-wise was certainly higher in the RPM scale. Kudos to the AP15′s for showing the versatility of the GTX series, this is not a High RPM/CFM only radiator core.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay back to the eye candy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I feel a bit more comfortable with how the system is running, I'll be removing the teflon tape from the tubing. But system is up and running now and doing very well. I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That PSU looks so dirty


----------



## ShortAlieN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> That PSU looks so dirty


I think that is just an HX850 thing... mine looks dirty to


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> That PSU looks so dirty
> 
> 
> 
> I think that is just an HX850 thing... mine looks dirty to
Click to expand...

Mine looks so clean~


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Long winded post and glad I read it I was under the impression that yes ap-15s were great fans if not the best if you support spending 15-20 per fan and that adds up quickly.
> Onto the gossip please link or show the results other then your own that prove in any way shape or form that ap-15s outperform gate loons by a ratio of at least 4x better performance because value vs performance ratio is already 4x more expensive for great fans.
> Facts
> 1. Ap-15s move great air and are super quiet compared to equal priced fans.
> 2. Ap-15s are 4x the price of the best gate loons at 120mm correct me if I am wrong.
> 3. Yate loons do not click at low voltage unless you buy the knockoffs aka not full legit from vendor there sadly have been articles covering this debate and its fact. There are at least three versions of YL with differences in everything.
> 4. Ap-15s hit 1850s and YL hit 2200rpms for the fans in question and yes YL are louder and push more air fact.
> 5. I have not seen one full review that proves ap-15s out perform YL in terms of coolant only and instead I have seen YL outperform ap-15s on thicker rads by a lot.
> I have not listed any opinions only facts if anything is wrong please correct this is also not the place to argue fans and I do not work or support any computer company I jjust strive to find the facts.
> To the above poster if all you did was switch 6 fans ran the same tests and provided results I'd gladly credit your findings for your setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. True.
> 2. False. YL D12-SH's are ~7. GT AP-15's are around $16(Aquatuning.us). Closer to 2x than 4x the price.
> 3. I got my YL's from Petra's. They're 'legit' curved blade. They click. Skinnee and Martin BOTH noted the clicking on _ALL_ variants of YL's when undervolted.
> 4. Louder yes, push more air in free standing air, yes. Push more air through a rad? No. Significantly less.
> 5. Have a look at these:
> http://skinneelabs.com/hwlabs-gtx-360-radiator-review/4/ <--- Yate Loon D12SH and SL's for 500rpm - 1800rpm testing, Ultra Kaze's for up to 2800RPM testing
> http://skinneelabs.com/hwlabs-gtx-360-radiator-review-data-supplement/3/ <--- Gentle Typhoon AP-15's and AP-30's for 600rpm to 3000RPM testing
> 
> Immediately relevant charts:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Yate Loon/Ultra Kaze:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: GT AP-15/AP-30:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> No one has ever tried to compare the performance or quality of GTs to YLs directly- the balance is from a price/performance standpoint. The argument is that the Yates cost 1/3 of what the GTs usually go for, and they're generally thought to offer much more than 1/3 of the performance. As for the clicking, I've run Yate SH's (high speed) 120's on my fan controller for years no with absolutely no clicking. Granted I got the 'good Yates' from Petra's (back when it still existed) and now Sidewinder. I can't comment on the performance of the cheaper Yates, but at $5/fan mine are a winner to me. I just got GTs from the group buy and I'm really excited to try them out, but don't bash Yates too hard, they really are a solid budget part of a build. Also, you should check to see if the clicking is beinng caused by a lack of oil and consider adding some- the bearings on Yates are often dry depending on where you bought them from, a little oil does wonders
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> See above.
> It's should be rather obvious by the separation in the GTX over the other radiators how much more pressure the AP-15's are putting out, and how much actual air is making it through the radiator.
> 
> Not to mention Skinnee mentions in his review that the AP-15's have shown that GTX's can be used with fans that arn't high speed.
> http://skinneelabs.com/hwlabs-gtx-360-radiator-review-data-supplement/3/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The last time we took the GTX360 for a spin the sweet spot fan-wise was certainly higher in the RPM scale. Kudos to the AP15′s for showing the versatility of the GTX series, this is not a High RPM/CFM only radiator core.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

You're not taking into account that for YOU this is the case. I should note that none of the reviewers state which FPI the test Rad is. Not that it should matter too much if you're looking at the results with an open mind. You should see which model works the best. If the Low Speed works the best then you're looking at a Low FPI Radiator. If High Speed works best you're looking at High FPI which has more surface area to push air through.

By your stance, what you're saying is that your Low FPI Radiator is what everyone runs. I've pointed out the flaw in this argument. I'm not going to run out and buy $45 worth of GTs' (conservative estimate) just to get one or two degrees better temps. This is a lot like TIM. Which is best is subjective to what you run, how much the part is and availability. GTs' are quite often sold out. What do I do if I have to replace one or maybe all of my fans. I can get 3 Yates for a 3rd of the price that I would have to pay for GTs'. I can get the same results you did(minus the fan clicking) in performance with Low Speed Yates on your Low FPI Radiator. That's indisputable. Your concerns over quality plastics and dB aside the Low Speed Yates and the GTs' will do the same job in reasonably similar fashion.

Now the clicking. I dunno, maybe my RheoSmart controller doesn't go low enough to expose clicking. I have my controller set to a little over half which has my Yates running their lowest possible speed without coming to a dead stop. No clicking. Not a single bit of it. I even sat on the table closest to my case while I reached around and fiddled with the appropriate knob. Nothing. I guess I could use a mechanics scope to listen directly to the hub, but if I can't hear it practically sitting on top of it, it's not occurring.

I'm not saying you aren't experiencing a benefit by changing but AC charges a surcharge on orders under $75 to the States. Last I checked, 3 GTs' from them is less than $75 so not only do you pay the price of the fan but you pay the shipping. I can beat the hell out of the AC price for GTs' with PPCs' price and shipping of the Yates regardless of speed and CFM rates. Low Speed is the same Price as High Speed and LED is the same as nonLED.

I'm happy for you I am, I just think that you're not looking at the whole issue while proclaiming GTs' king. They aren't. They are just as good. Yates price makes them king in most every way. If my fans start clicking, I'll lubricate them and move on. A little mineral oil will fix that right up.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay back to the eye candy...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I feel a bit more comfortable with how the system is running, I'll be removing the teflon tape from the tubing. But system is up and running now and doing very well. I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That PSU looks so dirty
Click to expand...

Yeah I know. Just been busy setting up the loop and having to redo my cable management to work it around the interloper in the bottom of my case. Gonna get a moist paper towel and fix it right now. If it borks my PSU, I blame you, closely followed by my OCD.



There, better?









~Ceadder


----------



## Willhemmens

Hey Ceadderman, why go water when you could just get a big aircooler, temps that aren't for off for a ton cheaper?


----------



## carrotman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> why go water when you could just get a big aircooler?


This always gives me a chuckle...


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You're not taking into account that for YOU this is the case. I should note that none of the reviewers state which FPI the test Rad is. Not that it should matter too much if you're looking at the results with an open mind. You should see which model works the best. If the Low Speed works the best then you're looking at a Low FPI Radiator. If High Speed works best you're looking at High FPI which has more surface area to push air through.


Obvious you didn't even look at the reviews or pictures. It states what radiators they are testing on. Is it too difficult for you to google the FPI on those rads?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> By your stance, what you're saying is that your Low FPI Radiator is what everyone runs. I've pointed out the flaw in this argument. I'm not going to run out and buy $45 worth of GTs' (conservative estimate) just to get one or two degrees better temps. This is a lot like TIM. Which is best is subjective to what you run, how much the part is and availability. GTs' are quite often sold out. What do I do if I have to replace one or maybe all of my fans. I can get 3 Yates for a 3rd of the price that I would have to pay for GTs'. I can get the same results you did(minus the fan clicking) in performance with Low Speed Yates on your Low FPI Radiator. That's indisputable. Your concerns over quality plastics and dB aside the Low Speed Yates and the GTs' will do the same job in reasonably similar fashion.
> Now the clicking. I dunno, maybe my RheoSmart controller doesn't go low enough to expose clicking. I have my controller set to a little over half which has my Yates running their lowest possible speed without coming to a dead stop. No clicking. Not a single bit of it. I even sat on the table closest to my case while I reached around and fiddled with the appropriate knob. Nothing. I guess I could use a mechanics scope to listen directly to the hub, but if I can't hear it practically sitting on top of it, it's not occurring.
> I'm not saying you aren't experiencing a benefit by changing but AC charges a surcharge on orders under $75 to the States. Last I checked, 3 GTs' from them is less than $75 so not only do you pay the price of the fan but you pay the shipping. I can beat the hell out of the AC price for GTs' with PPCs' price and shipping of the Yates regardless of speed and CFM rates. Low Speed is the same Price as High Speed and LED is the same as nonLED.
> I'm happy for you I am, I just think that you're not looking at the whole issue while proclaiming GTs' king. They aren't. They are just as good. Yates price makes them king in most every way. If my fans start clicking, I'll lubricate them and move on. A little mineral oil will fix that right up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


You need to actually read what's posted and the reviews. I stated I switched between low and high fpi rads. The GT's gave better performance in _ALL_ cases.
Read the reviews, and look at the data. They back up what I'm saying. You have not posted a single shred of hard evidence to support your position. I have provided direct hard scientific evidence that PROVES what I'm saying.

Not to mention your blatant inflation of the actual price and availability of GT's. I got them for $16 a pop shipped from aquatuning.us, who has not been out of stock of them since december: http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6624_Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-Fan-1850-rpm---120x120x25mm--.html
And yeah, your entire argument about GT's being expensive is totally moot. You just spent hundreds on a water cooler. Paying $16 a fan instead of $7 a fan doesn't make a large difference in the overall cost.

Finally, google 'yate loon clicking.' Your fans are new. It's a developed thing as the sleeve bearings wear out and leave grit in the assembly. Oiling them doesn't fix it. Also, orientation exacerbates the problem. If the fans are sitting horizontally, blowing air up and down, there's less wear on the bearing than if they're upright.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Ceadder why the teflon on the tubing?


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Ceadder why the teflon on the tubing?


You mean because that's not what it's for, at all, and serves no purpose on the outside of the tubing?















I just wrote it off as something that happens with people that don't know that they're doing.


----------



## Castscythe

well, time for an update =D. i added two UV cathodes (i would have preferred LED's but i dont have access to any atm, two green uv gelid fans (i LOVE these fans... so awesome... and they come with uv silicon fan mounts and PPC sleeved them for me for free







). one is is rear exhaust, and one is in bottom intake. and, as you can probably see, i added uv anti kink coils, not because i needed them, but because i like the looks XP. hopefully i will be putting the gfx card under and adding that 120mm rad (im thinking a black ice GT Stealth 120 XFlow... thoughts?), as well as moving my rx240 into the case soon. any thoughts/comments appreciated


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> You mean because that's not what it's for, at all, and serves no purpose on the outside of the tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wrote it off as something that happens with people that don't know that they're doing.


Okay i have been reading this thread for a long time, Cheadder knows what he is doing, he helped me with my loop, and (I have been forced to conclude that) you don't know what you are doing

Here is what i have concluded


Spoiler: Warning: RANT!



You are either very rich and expect all of the rest of us to be the same way and not care about money, well i have to break something to you when you are running a setup like many of the people here you need 15-20 fans and at 20 dollars a piece that is $400 in fans alone, where as with YL you only need to spend ~$50 for all of your fans. And your arguments are that the YL are worse than GT and i will agree with you but it is like pitting your grandmothers honda against a ferrari, the ferrari gets you from point a to b and so does the honda, however the ferrari will get there slightly quicker because it has better acceleration. the same thing with these fans, the YL at worst will function about 2-3C worse than the GT at the same RPM however the YL will spool up to a higher RPM and many of us game with headphones on so we can stand having a slightly louder computer if it will save us $350.

The thing that really ticks me off though is the fact that your just starting here on OCN and have no reputation whatsoever however the person you are calling an idiot has been here far longer and has a far better reputation.



There Rant Over


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Thank you for your confidence chap, but this is my first loop. I'm sure there are much more experienced Water Coolers than I here. I just relate the information that I gleaned from a lot of research and common sense, if I'm wrong I don't mind being corrected so that misinformation is not being thrown about willy nilly. Oh an Rep is not the end all be all of a member's knowledge or opinion.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Hey Ceadderman, why go water when you could just get a big aircooler, temps that aren't for off for a ton cheaper?


My temps are at Full Load for 24/7 with 2 fans operating in Pull on my 360. No Air Cooler would give me the same temps. My system dropped 10c with an ambient of 65F/18.33c despite running at 2/3 peak efficiency in Pull.









Not even the best Air Cooler would do that.









Teflon Tape?

Oh sorry chaps, I should explain. EK Black Nickel Comps tend to rub black mark on the tubing. Well this not being black tubing black mark sticks out like a sore thumb. Example...



See all the greyish black rings on that short piece of tubing?









So I wrap teflon tape around the tubing to keep it pristine looking after the tape is removed.









Zoson... THESE fans be new. Don't make me whip out pics showing Yates in use for over 2 years in THIS system now. The results wouldn't be pretty.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay back to the eye candy...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I feel a bit more comfortable with how the system is running, I'll be removing the teflon tape from the tubing. But system is up and running now and doing very well. I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's Alive!


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Okay i have been reading this thread for a long time, Cheadder knows what he is doing, he helped me with my loop, and (I have been forced to conclude that) you don't know what you are doing
> Here is what i have concluded
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: RANT!
> 
> 
> 
> You are either very rich and expect all of the rest of us to be the same way and not care about money, well i have to break something to you when you are running a setup like many of the people here you need 15-20 fans and at 20 dollars a piece that is $400 in fans alone, where as with YL you only need to spend ~$50 for all of your fans. And your arguments are that the YL are worse than GT and i will agree with you but it is like pitting your grandmothers honda against a ferrari, the ferrari gets you from point a to b and so does the honda, however the ferrari will get there slightly quicker because it has better acceleration. the same thing with these fans, the YL at worst will function about 2-3C worse than the GT at the same RPM however the YL will spool up to a higher RPM and many of us game with headphones on so we can stand having a slightly louder computer if it will save us $350.
> The thing that really ticks me off though is the fact that your just starting here on OCN and have no reputation whatsoever however the person you are calling an idiot has been here far longer and has a far better reputation.
> 
> 
> There Rant Over


Fanboy's will do what they will.
I'm a reputable member on forums that existed long before this place was even a glimmer in the owners eyes. I came here because this is where people with 560ti 448's are congregating. Just like other forum. There are lots of people like you and Cheadder.

Neither you nor Cheadder have provided evidence of any sort. Nor do you OR he need '15-20 fans'.

I'll also correct your math.
15*7 = $105
20*7 = $140

15*16 = $240
20*16 = $320

Which as I said already, is around 2x the cost.

Oh, and if you actually ARE like the majority here and are running a 3x120mm rad or two 2x120mm rads, that's 6 or 8 fans. Not 15-20... lol. And you have an H100.







I'm sure you needed copious amounts of help setting THAT up.

Also, I love how people spend $100 on a reservoir that provides no cooling benefit, but looks cool. Then complain about not wanting to spend money on expensive fans. Spend $20 on an MCRes v2 that works well, and then you have $80 left for your fans, which actually improve your performance.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> IGNORE THE DATE STAMP ON THE PICS.. i'm lazy and every time i change batteries i have to change date..didn't do it last time.
> This is my first computer build let alone a liquid cooled one.
> let me know what you think.
> NZXT Phantom case (Modded)
> Asus Z68 Deluxe Gen3 mobo
> Intel I7 2700k at 4.5ghz. (1.27 v)
> gtx 580 hydro copper 2 (3g)
> i'm going to thread the pump in the near future so i can
> have a 90 to 90 from my pump to my 1st rad. so it
> doens't part block the view of the res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good but I might be a little concerned about the bottom tube that goes from your pump to your bottom radiator. That bend looks a bit tight and your tubing already appears to have collapsed a little.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My temps are at Full Load for 24/7 with 2 fans operating in Pull on my 360. No Air Cooler would give me the same temps. My system dropped 10c with an ambient of 65F/18.33c despite running at 2/3 peak efficiency in Pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not even the best Air Cooler would do that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's not the point. You don't need your system temp dropped by 10C with an ambient of 65F/18.33c despite running at 2/3 peak efficiency in Pull, do you?

The point is that watercooling, generally is known to be something you don't do on a budget, because if you did, you'd simply buy an air cooler for much less than the cost of your loop.

Why spend a load on a watercooling loop but cheap out on one of the most important components? You've spent on components that aren't even going aid in performance but you won't even get decent fans?

Edit: For those fittings to leave marks on your tubing is really poor, I'd send them back if it was me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My temps are at Full Load for 24/7 with 2 fans operating in Pull on my 360. No Air Cooler would give me the same temps. My system dropped 10c with an ambient of 65F/18.33c despite running at 2/3 peak efficiency in Pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not even the best Air Cooler would do that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's not the point. You don't need your system temp dropped by 10C with an ambient of 65F/18.33c despite running at 2/3 peak efficiency in Pull, do you?
> 
> The point is that watercooling, generally is known to be something you don't do on a budget, because if you did, you'd simply buy an air cooler for much less than the cost of your loop.
> 
> Why spend a load on a watercooling loop but cheap out on one of the most important components?
Click to expand...

True, water is not generally something undertaken on a budget. But I'm a horse of a different color. Also my NB temps required something more drastic. Previously when I played say Far Cry 2 my NB would creep up to 55c. Now it's sitting squarely on 42c at 2/3 peak efficiency.









I didn't undertake this just for that either. I did it cause I could. The length of time not withstanding, a lot of the time I spend working on this was research. I don't water cool cause I have to I do so cause I can and when it's time to upgrade I won't have to worry about buying another cooler. My loop will transfer quite well. It pays for itself in the long run.









Also I don't consider Yate Loons "cheaping out". I do acknowledge there are better fans. But the manufacturers are barking greedy with their prices. I can't support that no matter how good the equipment and Yate Loons are comparable to them so why not run them instead of sinking a fortune into a greedy manufacturers pockets?









~Ceadder


----------



## HAFenvy

I love how people constantly argue about fans... sure my GELIDs are a little more expensive and might not blow as much air but they are UV reactive (requirement #1), are quiet (requirement #2) and I like them (not a requirement but whatever haha).

Now if you want to see a motherload of fans go head to head, read up on Martin's testing here:

Martin's Liquid Lab Fan Testing Round 2

Flow vs Noise, Voltage tests, air flow tests and YouTube videos of each fan running for your own ears to enjoy.

Then go drop the cash on whatever fan you need depending on the radiator you are using and how insane a noise level you are willing to live just to bring your temperatures down a couple degrees more.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> True, water is not generally something undertaken on a budget. But I'm a horse of a different color. Also my NB temps required something more drastic. Previously when I played say Far Cry 2 my NB would creep up to 55c. Now it's sitting squarely on 42c at 2/3 peak efficiency.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't undertake this just for that either. I did it cause I could. The length of time not withstanding, a lot of the time I spend working on this was research. I don't water cool cause I have to I do so cause I can and when it's time to upgrade I won't have to worry about buying another cooler. My loop will transfer quite well. It pays for itself in the long run.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I don't consider Yate Loons "cheaping out". I do acknowledge there are better fans. But the manufacturers are barking greedy with their prices. I can't support that no matter how good the equipment and Yate Loons are comparable to them so why not run them instead of sinking a fortune into a greedy manufacturers pockets?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Weren't your NB temps fine before hand though? 55C sounds fine to me, it's far from being damaged anyway.

Sure I understand you're not watercooling just for the temps but there are better ways you could have spent the money if performance is what you wanted to gain from watercooling.

I've agreed with you on many things but your loop being more compatible than a heatsink? I got a Prolimatech cooler for a rig and they sent me 2011 mounts free without me even asking, that's compatibility.
Also pays for it's self in the long run, how exactly? Even if a heatsink is no longer compatible with a socket, for the price of your loop, you could buy multiple heatsinks.

I like Yates, they're good if you're on a budget, sure but if you're building an expensive loop, surely you could get something a little high quality.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Looks good but I might be a little concerned about the bottom tube that goes from your pump to your bottom radiator. That bend looks a bit tight and your tubing already appears to have collapsed a little.


Yeah the picture is a bit misleading as the tubing is actually coming out toward the camera and makes it
look a little bit like it's collapsing..but i know this is def. a trouble area in the future.
going to thread the inside of the head of the pump so i can attach a 90* compression fitting
then have one on my first rad also and have a direct straight connect..
didn't realize the pump wasn't threaded and had to use a ring clamp (i spent a crap ton of
money on bitspower compression fittings and in the end still ended up using a ring clamp..damn..lol)
i am already planning my next liquid cooled comp and doing a case mod with it..should be nice..
gonna spice things up a bit with some temp. controlled colour changing paint on my tubing etc..
so when it gets hot it changes colour..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Weren't your NB temps fine before hand though? 55C sounds fine to me, it's far from being damaged anyway.
> 
> Sure I understand you're not watercooling just for the temps but there are better ways you could have spent the money if performance is what you wanted to gain from watercooling.
> 
> I've agreed with you on many things but your loop being more compatible than a heatsink? I got a Prolimatech cooler for a rig and they sent me 2011 mounts free without me even asking, that's compatibility.
> Also pays for it's self in the long run, how exactly? Even if a heatsink is no longer compatible with a socket, for the price of your loop, you could buy multiple heatsinks.
> 
> I like Yates, they're good if you're on a budget, sure but if you're building an expensive loop, surely you could get something a little high quality.


But I like Yates. The price/performance index makes them sheer *Win!* imho. No heatsink would have fixed the NB issues. Before I did the NB fix, NB consistently hit 57-59c. Max temp before board shuts down is 60-63c.

Did the NB fix and averaged 48c @ GPU idle. On a hot day (summer temps) I've seen this thing creep up to the ragged edge. So peace of mind since I was running H50 anyway with one year left on the warranty decided it was time to jump in with both feet.

Also as I point out, regardless of what I upgrade to I'm set. The only piece that won't upgrade with the system is the NB block. I got it used with low mileage on it. All this water cooling wasn't done just for shiggles either. I plan to make another assault on 4Ghz for 24/7 stability. Having my CPU running at a cooler temp should aid in that endeavor and that of any CPU that replaces it. With my choice of block, I can make the seamless change to Intel if I wish to go that direction as well.

I guess I just don't see the point of rationalizing my choice to spend money on good hardware to go with Yate Loons. If they break I can buy new ones and not feel bad about it and in the end it leaves more money for me to upgrade my components as the budget allows. Yeah this was a lot of money but not everything is purely about money. They perform well they do what I want of them, I don't have the issues that other people seem to have and they fit my budget quite well. Other than the odd and end(i.e. GPU/ Pump, tubing etc) water cooling component I'm done with this loop









~Ceadder


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hey i was wondering where does everyone get their
liquid cooling products from..
so far i've been getting them from DazMode (i live in Canada cheaper delivery costs)
I have also seen Xoxide have some pretty cool stuff..
anyone else know of some places i can get liquid cooling stuff from?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey i was wondering where does everyone get their
> liquid cooling products from..
> so far i've been getting them from DazMode (i live in Canada cheaper delivery costs)
> I have also seen Xoxide have some pretty cool stuff..
> anyone else know of some places i can get liquid cooling stuff from?


Performance-PCs
FrozenCPU
Jabtech
Sidewinder
Xoxide
AquaComputer
Ebay
Amazon

And for you Canucks NCIX and Daz Mode.










I'm sure I've left a few out but I think this pretty much covers it.









Oh yes cannot forget OCN Marketplace where I scored my Radiator and FC block.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey i was wondering where does everyone get their
> liquid cooling products from..
> so far i've been getting them from DazMode (i live in Canada cheaper delivery costs)
> I have also seen Xoxide have some pretty cool stuff..
> anyone else know of some places i can get liquid cooling stuff from?


FrozenCPU ships to Canada I believe. Performance-PCs might too. Aquatuning. Some others?

Anyways, why is there a fan argument in the liquid cooling club/gallery? Take it to a separate thread. You're cluttering this one up for no reason over something that doesn't matter.

"OMGZ YATE LOONZ AREN'T AMAZING!" "OMGZ THEY AREZ" "NO" "YES" etc. Its not going to end with either side admitting a single thing. Yate Loons are cheap, they do fine. Typhoons are relatively expensive, they do exceptionally well. Its pretty simple facts. If you have the cash to sink further on your setup on nice fans, go for it, they're worth it. If you've stretched your budget really far (i.e. Ceadderman or myself), you don't have any interest in paying double for your fans. I bought NZXT FN120 fans that perform perfectly well for me, $6 each, shipped. I have 10x 120 and 3x 140. ($60 vs $160 seems like an immediate reason).


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Cool thanks everyone..i've have to check out some of those stores.
def. have not heard of some..but i am relatively new to the
liquid cooling and OC game..

gotta alot to teach but even more to learn.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Also, I love how people spend $100 on a reservoir that provides no cooling benefit, but looks cool. Then complain about not wanting to spend money on expensive fans. Spend $20 on an MCRes v2 that works well, and then you have $80 left for your fans, which actually improve your performance.


Hey buddy, will you cool it? Stop criticizing people on where there priorities are. Some people want a nice flashy setup without spending $15-20 per fan - and can you blame them? To most people, a fan blows air; that's it. Few people understand the differences between a $4 fan and a GT or Noiseblocker or whatever. If you think GTs are worth the buy (I happen to think they are, but that's irrelevant), wonderful. Some people don't, and I can't blame them.

And if you were half as knowledgeable as you like to march around and pretend to be, you'd know that there are plenty of benefits to be found in a solid $100 reservoir over an awkward, leaky $20 reservoir.


----------



## wermad

Got me some R4s and I love em







.

Yeah, I can't dump $400 on GTs. Hell, I cringed when I spent $120 on the R4s but I saved myself $280 though


----------



## thfallen

still working on it but just need a few things now.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Also, I love how people spend $100 on a reservoir that provides no cooling benefit, but looks cool. Then complain about not wanting to spend money on expensive fans. Spend $20 on an MCRes v2 that works well, and then you have $80 left for your fans, which actually improve your performance.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey buddy, will you cool it? Stop criticizing people on where there priorities are. Some people want a nice flashy setup without spending $15-20 per fan - and can you blame them? To most people, a fan blows air; that's it. Few people understand the differences between a $4 fan and a GT or Noiseblocker or whatever. If you think GTs are worth the buy (I happen to think they are, but that's irrelevant), wonderful. Some people don't, and I can't blame them.
> 
> And if you were half as knowledgeable as you like to march around and pretend to be, you'd know that there are plenty of benefits to be found in a solid $100 reservoir over an awkward, leaky $20 reservoir.
Click to expand...

Actually I didn't spend ANY money on my Reservoir. It was donated to me. Something I am very grateful for.









But benefit to this Res? Built in anticyclone device that looks cool while serving a credible function.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually I didn't spend ANY money on my Reservoir. It was donated to me. Something I am very grateful for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But benefit to this Res? Built in anticyclone device that looks cool while serving a credible function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


haha when you start getting into a "wasting money" argument about watercooling...







you don't get very far.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> 
> 
> Rig is now complete! Replaced all the barbs with monsoon fittings, which are great and relatively cheap.
> This is my first go at water cooling, so I wasnt sure what to expect for temps.
> For ambient at 29c:
> i5 2500k @ 4.5 GHz 1.288v load temp = 55c
> SLI 570s @ 850 MHz 1.05v load temp = 48c
> Temps are much lower than air, and quieter too! I was thinking about adding an EX120 since I have space, but would that really make a difference?


Looking sharp! Glad to see the Koolance blocks went to a good home.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually I didn't spend ANY money on my Reservoir. It was donated to me. Something I am very grateful for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But benefit to this Res? Built in anticyclone device that looks cool while serving a credible function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha when you start getting into a "wasting money" argument about watercooling...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you don't get very far.
Click to expand...

lol, I never said I wasted money. Someone asked me why I went with water cooling because it can be pretty pricey. I did spend quite a bit on this loop but nothing compared to what it would all have been BNIB.







lol

Pump-New
CPU Block-New on Sale
FC Block-Used
Dual DDC top- BN donated
Res- Used Donated
Tubing- New/Used
Comps-New
Barbs - Used/Donated
Fans- New
Radiator-Used

37c @ 2/3 peak efficiency?-Priceless.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> lol, I never said I wasted money.


It was more of a comment on watercooling in general haha. Not exactly one of the most price-efficient hobbies out there


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> lol, I never said I wasted money.
> 
> 
> 
> It was more of a comment on watercooling in general haha. Not exactly one of the most price-efficient hobbies out there
Click to expand...

Nope, indeed probably not. Still, nothing beats the satisfaction of building the loop and getting it right the first time.









I figured out that it wasn't the fault of the Res that I had leaks from the top, also found out that the 90 fitting wasn't to blame for the restriction. Apparently when I put everything back together the plate with the double helices had shifted moving the inlet/outlet out of position and pretty much sealing those ports. Kinda like shutting a ball valve. So the water could get in but not enough to allow proper flow. Build up caused the leaks. Found this out when I opened it back up to seal the threads with teflon tape. Be careful when you put these Reservoirs together.









Had that not happened it would have been perfect on the first try. I find great satisfaction knowing this.









~Ceadder


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Hey buddy, will you cool it? Stop criticizing people on where there priorities are. Some people want a nice flashy setup without spending $15-20 per fan - and can you blame them? To most people, a fan blows air; that's it. Few people understand the differences between a $4 fan and a GT or Noiseblocker or whatever. If you think GTs are worth the buy (I happen to think they are, but that's irrelevant), wonderful. Some people don't, and I can't blame them.
> And if you were half as knowledgeable as you like to march around and pretend to be, you'd know that there are plenty of benefits to be found in a solid $100 reservoir over an awkward, leaky $20 reservoir.


If you had an MCRes Micro leak on you, sorry. That's you. Not the res. I've owned two V1's and SIX v2's. None had any leaking issues whatsoever.

Anyway, you're playing both sides of the card. "hey spend a lot on a res, it must be good because it costs a lot!" No res that costs more than an MCRes micro is 'worth it' if you're just considering performance. Get some consistency in your equation please.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually I didn't spend ANY money on my Reservoir. It was donated to me. Something I am very grateful for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But benefit to this Res? Built in anticyclone device that looks cool while serving a credible function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I had a helix reservoir. They don't filter air out nearly as well as advertised. An MCRes Micro will bleed your loop significantly faster. That's the difference between something designed to look good and a product actually engineered to do a job.

A donated part, however, is always a win. And of course buying parts new is a way to get gouged quick. The only cooling parts that are new in my rig are the fans, gpu waterblocks, unisinks, tubing, barbs and clamps. All of the rads, cpu block, fc block, backplates, pump, and even my mcres micro v2 are used. Hell, My CPU is used, my memory is used, all four of my 2tb WD Blacks were bought used, and one of my GPU's is used.

Anyway, the point I was making is that it's a misconception that YL's are in the same category as GT's. If anyone took two seconds to look at the two charts I posted earlier. They are DIRECTLY comaprable. In the 600-1400RPM range GT's push more air through a radiator to the point that you get ~20% better performance. Everyone knows that range is the sweet spot for most rads. Even the two exceptions, the GTX and GTS, perform better than anything else when paired with a GT between about 900 and 1800rpm.

There is no argument. Those are the facts. Period.


----------



## thfallen

got the back panel on now the tubing fits behind the motherboard nice no kinks or anything,


----------



## thrasherht

HAHA I love the people that ask why we spend so much money on our loop rather then buy an air cooler.

Ok here it is. I haven't spent a ton on my loop, but I did spend more then an air cooler.
But I personally LOVE messing with my computer, so with water I have fun with it, and I think it looks super cool.
Plus it is always fun watching peoples faces when you ask about tubing for your computer.
I don't care that I could have had a lower maintenance and almost equal temp solution, I wanted water because it is what I WANTED it. Not what you wanted, but what I wanted for MY computer, plus it performs very well.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> HAHA I love the people that ask why we spend so much money on our loop rather then buy an air cooler.
> Ok here it is. I haven't spent a ton on my loop, but I did spend more then an air cooler.
> But I personally LOVE messing with my computer, so with water I have fun with it, and I think it looks super cool.
> Plus it is always fun watching peoples faces when you ask about tubing for your computer.
> I don't care that I could have had a lower maintenance and almost equal temp solution, I wanted water because it is what I WANTED it. Not what you wanted, but what I wanted for MY computer, plus it performs very well.


Further to your point, it wasn't until I actually built my first loop that I came to appreciate *how much* custom watercooling, in general, is the ultimate "tweaker's dream come true".









It's expensive, and certainly not for the faint of heart, but it is more rewarding if you are up for a new challenge.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Further to your point, it wasn't until I actually built my first loop that I came to appreciate *how much* custom watercooling, in general, is the ultimate "tweaker's dream come true".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's expensive, and certainly not for the faint of heart, but it is more rewarding if you are up for a new challenge.


+1


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

It's funny that people are arguing about cost : performance benefits and seemingly claiming they are 1:1. Things don't work that way, ever. I could have built a ~5c delta loop for ~$1500, but ended up with a ~2.5c delta loop for triple that. Honestly who cares how much another person spends on their loop? it doesn't matter. All that matters is whether the person enjoyed building the rig. If the rig breaks then records power to them, if it doesn't then oh well. Will I break a record with my rig? Hell no, I'm not risking pushing the parts that hard. Not what I care abt. I watercooled the way I did b/c i enjoy building, nothing else. I also made the mistake of using mid range parts before and always had a craving for more and better. TLDR: Do that you want, it's your hobby and your money. The only time another's opinion really matters is if they're funding your hobby.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Weren't your NB temps fine before hand though? 55C sounds fine to me, it's far from being damaged anyway.
> Sure I understand you're not watercooling just for the temps but there are better ways you could have spent the money if performance is what you wanted to gain from watercooling.
> I've agreed with you on many things but your loop being more compatible than a heatsink? I got a Prolimatech cooler for a rig and they sent me 2011 mounts free without me even asking, that's compatibility.
> *Also pays for it's self in the long run, how exactly?* Even if a heatsink is no longer compatible with a socket, for the price of your loop, you could buy multiple heatsinks.
> I like Yates, they're good if you're on a budget, sure but if you're building an expensive loop, surely you could get something a little high quality.


This really depends on your components. When folding many of the watercooling parts will pay for themselves over time due to reduced energy consumption since cooler parts are more efficient, especially when gpu folding on power hungry cards like 480s. My loop will never pay for itself... ever, but I had fun building it and that's all that matters


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Further to your point, it wasn't until I actually built my first loop that I came to appreciate *how much* custom watercooling, in general, is the ultimate "tweaker's dream come true".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's expensive, and certainly not for the faint of heart, but it is more rewarding if you are up for a new challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1
Click to expand...

2nded... wait that would be thirded since you went +1 right?









I think a lot of my satisfaction comes from having been at my Grandfather's side for years when he undertook a serious HAMM modification. For his vehicles and house. I can guarantee you that Master Electrician would love this build because that's the kind of thing he would have done if it were around in the 70s' and 80s' and even earlier. He held his HAMM license since he was a preteen and we did a lot of modifications together when I was a preteen through High School and when I came home from the Service. This wasn't the only reason just a part of the big picture and a nostalgic one at that.









As far as paying for itself it does so because I'd like to make this a full time gig. Building and modding systems for people. Right now my clients are people who have little to no money and want a reasonably nice Computer that is upgradeable, their budget permitting. I don't get paid much if anything for this service. Whatever the parts total is I get a percentage of that depending on what the client can afford. This system is my Business Card. It gives people an idea of what can be done and that I'm willing to go the extra mile for them so they aren't stuck with $400 trash that came with a $800 price tag. If they don't upgrade that's okay too. But at least they won't be stuck with something they don't need or can't use. Anyway, locals seeing my system as it's been built has kept me off the street.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Your wallet, your choice. Nuff said


----------



## egotrippin

First post, first build, first loop.





Since these photos I've made a couple changes but I've ceased work on this project since I just got my hands on a murdermod TJ07.
Here's a few snapshots of the rig before I put my gear in it. More pictures of a finished (will I ever really finish?) build will follow by next weekend.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> You mean because that's not what it's for, at all, and serves no purpose on the outside of the tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wrote it off as something that happens with people that don't know that they're doing.


^^This

Also,going back to the fans,GTs are just flat our better than Yates, this has been proven again and again. Enterprise based fans FTW!!

For the best performance/price ratio,Ultra Kazes destroy ALL!!! Muahahahahahaaaa!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Your wallet, your choice. Nuff said


Also This ^^
Doesnt get any simpler......


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Just an update of mine. Cleaned out all the blocks today and got some new tubing in for it. Must say I love white tubing but this blue tubing looks SOOOO good. Get my fan controller and some more heatsinks for my gpu's. Can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* To anyone with a rasa kit or XSPC rad. Just go ahead and clean it like you are supposed to. Me being an impatient rookie decided that I didn't really need to. Would have made my breakdown much easier today if I hadn't had to clean the flux out my block.


Heya what white leds is this system using or anything like it someone might recommend and would a UV light make them purpleish-blueish...? thanks!


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ^^This
> Also,going back to the fans,GTs are just flat our better than Yates, this has been proven again and again. Enterprise based fans FTW!!
> For the best performance/price ratio,Ultra Kazes destroy ALL!!! Muahahahahahaaaa!!!


Ultra Kazes detroy all...including peace and quiet haha. I have 4 of the Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B5AP-15 which spin at 1850 RPM. I've noticed that most of my performance comes in the bottom half of the range provided by my fan controller. I like having the ability to crank'em up if needed but if I forget to before starting up a game, my temps stay fine even if I have the dial on my controller at 25%. It's made me wonder if I could get by with a fan at 500 RPM like one of the Noise Blockers.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Ultra Kazes detroy all...including peace and quiet haha. I have 4 of the Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B5AP-15 which spin at 1850 RPM. I've noticed that most of my performance comes in the bottom half of the range provided by my fan controller. I like having the ability to crank'em up if needed but if I forget to before starting up a game, my temps stay fine even if I have the dial on my controller at 25%. It's made me wonder if I could get by with a fan at 500 RPM like one of the Noise Blockers.


I am using NB fans on my SR-2 build,getting the 2000 rpm versions tho,always better to have some fan grunt in the tank.

I have 6 Ultra Kazes on 2 360 GTX rads,they out perform my AP-29's for half the fan speed!
If you want GTX rads,get the right fan for the job.


----------



## nycste

hey guys i know wrong thread but is there anything i can do to make my ancient but basically brand new vantec nexus 4 knob fan controller makes buzzing sounds on all knobs at anything lower then 60 percent power.

Currenttly got 4 knobs
1. 3 fans on rad top or bottom
2. 3 fans on rad top or bottom
3. 3 case 140mm fans
4. 1 120blue led fan or lights/uv knob just for power testing atm....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> hey guys i know wrong thread but is there anything i can do to make my ancient but basically brand new vantec nexus 4 knob fan controller makes buzzing sounds on all knobs at anything lower then 60 percent power.
> Currenttly got 4 knobs
> 1. 3 fans on rad top or bottom
> 2. 3 fans on rad top or bottom
> 3. 3 case 140mm fans
> 4. 1 120blue led fan or lights/uv knob just for power testing atm....


This is a common complaint with Controllers,fans click or buzz at lower speeds.
Unless the noise is coming from the controller itself?


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is a common complaint with Controllers,fans click or buzz at lower speeds.
> Unless the noise is coming from the controller itself?


the buzz is directly from teh vantec nexus 4knob fan controller where exactly i have no idea but its directly connected to the knobs once i hit 60 percent or so the buzzing stops and id rather deal with the loud yates on my gtx 360 rad lol at possibly full blast 24-7 atm when i tone them down to 7V i think is lowest they go the fans are super silent and almost unhearable but the fan controller is buzzing my head off.. a known issue was just curious if there was a ghetto mod i could do. otherwise this is the second controller that is useless in my possession for me lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> the buzz is directly from teh vantec nexus 4knob fan controller where exactly i have no idea but its directly connected to the knobs once i hit 60 percent or so the buzzing stops and id rather deal with the loud yates on my gtx 360 rad lol at possibly full blast 24-7 atm when i tone them down to 7V i think is lowest they go the fans are super silent and almost unhearable but the fan controller is buzzing my head off.. a known issue was just curious if there was a ghetto mod i could do. otherwise this is the second controller that is useless in my possession for me lol.


Try a 7v resistor on the fans, then run the controller at higher power


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Try a 7v resistor on the fans, then run the controller at higher power


I was about to suggest the same thing but if you're going to buy a few of those you might as well get a new fan controller.

I use a Scythe Kaze Q2 3.5" 8-Channel Fan Controller - which handles my 8 fans in a compact 3.5" form factor and it works great. Only $25


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> This really depends on your components. When folding many of the watercooling parts will pay for themselves over time due to reduced energy consumption since cooler parts are more efficient, especially when gpu folding on power hungry cards like 480s. My loop will never pay for itself... ever, but I had fun building it and that's all that matters


Dude, I completely agree, I built my system because I love the looks and the idea. I run my system at stock most of the time which the CPU downclocked to 800MHz because I don't need the power. If I did want performance I'd just setup my Phase unit









Surely if performance is what you want, instead of paying out for watercooling, the money could be better spent on actual hardware? Say you budgeted a 2500K and a CPU waterblock, you would see a larger increase in performance in just buying a 2600K instead. And yes, my Supreme HF with postage cost around £75.


----------



## FINLAND

-


----------



## george_orm

never seen anyone with one with one of these in there builds, and hec kit looks super awesome, shame it costs a arm and a leg, but it might be just right for someone


they cost $215 AUD
from pccasegear: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=19787


----------



## bundymania

The Pump is awesome - i reviewed the single version last year (Link in my Sig.)


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> never seen anyone with one with one of these in there builds, and hec kit looks super awesome, shame it costs a arm and a leg, but it might be just right for someone
> 
> they cost $215 AUD
> from pccasegear: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=19787


I've been running an MCP35x2 for a few weeks now. It's a great little thing!!! You can't see it in my build because it's tucked behind my PSU for space reasons. More flow than MCP655 for sure!!! The PWM control is very nice also. It comes with a splitter cable so you can run the pumps off separate motherboard headers, see the RPM individually, but control the PWM of both from one header.

I'll post a couple of pics tonight. It's kinda ghetto rigged to keep it up on its side.


----------



## Aventadoor

Guys, is Phobya G-Changer 480 legit rads compared to XSPC RX?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Guys, is Phobya G-Changer 480 legit rads compared to XSPC RX?


They're too legit to quit.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Guys, is Phobya G-Changer 480 legit rads compared to XSPC RX?




Less than a degree between it and the HW Labs SR1.


----------



## barkinos98

can anybody in here give me advice about a watercooling loop for a 3930K and 680 in sli? i also will have a cosmos 2. the reason is that i have no idea on how this works and what i need.


----------



## Willhemmens

You'll be wanted a 360 or a 420 radiator for the top and a 240 in the bottom. Infact, just message me if you want.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> can anybody in here give me advice about a watercooling loop for a 3930K and 680 in sli? i also will have a cosmos 2. the reason is that i have no idea on how this works and what i need.


You should start your own thread in the WC section asking the same questions.


----------



## PCModderMike

So I'm selling a spare motherboard I have to a buddy of mine, in return he will be giving me a little bit of cash and some water cooling parts. One of the items is his used RX360, but I know he has a brand new EX360 laying around as well...should I try to go for the EX360 instead? Is it better than the RX360?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So I'm selling a spare motherboard I have to a buddy of mine, in return he will be giving me a little bit of cash and some water cooling parts. One of the items is his used RX360, but I know he has a brand new EX360 laying around as well...should I try to go for the EX360 instead? Is it better than the RX360?


Scroll up the page a little and check the graph and you have your answer. What sort of fan speeds are you looking at?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Scroll up the page a little and check the graph and you have your answer. What sort of fan speeds are you looking at?


I actually saw that graph, but it didn't say anything about what it was really measuring, like it just goes from 0-9 on the bottom? 0-9 what? Push fans are Xigmatek's @ 1500 RPM, pulls fans up top are Bitfenix Spectre's at 1,000RPM.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I actually saw that graph, but it didn't say anything about what it was really measuring, like it just goes from 0-9 on the bottom? 0-9 what? Push fans are Xigmatek's @ 1500 RPM, pulls fans up top are Bitfenix Spectre's at 1,000RPM.


That's air-water delta temperature, review is here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1190800/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-16-rads-tested


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Scroll up the page a little and check the graph and you have your answer. What sort of fan speeds are you looking at?
> 
> 
> 
> I actually saw that graph, but it didn't say anything about what it was really measuring, like it just goes from 0-9 on the bottom? 0-9 what? Push fans are Xigmatek's @ 1500 RPM, pulls fans up top are Bitfenix Spectre's at 1,000RPM.
Click to expand...

That's degrees C. Also I wouldn't mix fans on a rad. Generally the RX360 is better.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> That's degrees C. Also I wouldn't mix fans on a rad. Generally the RX360 is better.


The mix seems to be doing OK right now on a RS360. Yea I would think the RX360 is better, guess I'll just stick with it. So where in the world did this graph come from??

0-9 degrees Celsius...whoa that's cold!


----------



## HyDrokid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So I'm selling a spare motherboard I have to a buddy of mine, in return he will be giving me a little bit of cash and some water cooling parts. One of the items is his used RX360, but I know he has a brand new EX360 laying around as well...should I try to go for the EX360 instead? Is it better than the RX360?


The RX360 is nearly doubled in size compared to the EX, but the RX has a larger heat dissipation rating, due to the increased thickness of the rad

I had a RX240 with push fan setup attached to the top of the case and it barely cleared the dimm slots, If you are mouting it on the bottom or oustide of the case there souldnt be a problem....

Personal i would go with the EX due to the size of the RX

EX - 121 x 35.5 x 395mm (WxDxH) - Low Profile
RX - 125 x 58.5 x 410mm (WxDxH)


----------



## axipher

I love my RX240 with Pull fans on the bottom and RS240 on the top with pull fans. I think I have my 690 II as stuffed as you can get it.

MicroRes > MCP350 > RX240 > RS240 > CPU > Black Ice Pro 120 > MicroRes


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The mix seems to be doing OK right now on a RS360. Yea I would think the RX360 is better, guess I'll just stick with it. So where in the world did this graph come from??
> 
> 0-9 degrees Celsius...whoa that's cold!


Those are likely delta temps.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Those are likely delta temps.


Ahh yea would make more sense









EDIT: Wow, really thinking about it though, 5.4 degrees over ambient temp is awesome, I wonder what kinda hardware that is, and if it's full load or idle. Must be idle...did I miss a whole post where the details surrounding the graph were explained? Sorry if I did and I'm clogging the thread here, going to search back now.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyDrokid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So I'm selling a spare motherboard I have to a buddy of mine, in return he will be giving me a little bit of cash and some water cooling parts. One of the items is his used RX360, but I know he has a brand new EX360 laying around as well...should I try to go for the EX360 instead? Is it better than the RX360?
> 
> 
> 
> The RX360 is nearly doubled in size compared to the EX, but the RX has a larger heat dissipation rating, due to the increased thickness of the rad
> 
> I had a RX240 with push fan setup attached to the top of the case and it barely cleared the dimm slots, If you are mouting it on the bottom or oustide of the case there souldnt be a problem....
> 
> Personal i would go with the EX due to the size of the RX
> 
> EX - 121 x 35.5 x 395mm (WxDxH) - Low Profile
> RX - 125 x 58.5 x 410mm (WxDxH)
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Scroll up the page a little and check the graph and you have your answer. What sort of fan speeds are you looking at?
> 
> 
> 
> I actually saw that graph, but it didn't say anything about what it was really measuring, like it just goes from 0-9 on the bottom? 0-9 what? Push fans are Xigmatek's @ 1500 RPM, pulls fans up top are Bitfenix Spectre's at 1,000RPM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's degrees C. Also I wouldn't mix fans on a rad. Generally the RX360 is better.
Click to expand...

The difference in price and size kinda makes the gain of .3c Delta moot. Go with the RX360.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I love my RX240 with Pull fans on the bottom and RS240 on the top with pull fans. I think I have my 690 II as stuffed as you can get it.
> 
> MicroRes > MCP350 > RX240 > RS240 > CPU > Black Ice Pro 120 > MicroRes
> 
> 
> Spoiler: watercooling pic


Looks awesome Axe...

Took some beauty shots of my rig last night(still has the tape though.







) hows she look? No more Lime deposits.




























~Ceadder


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay back to the eye candy...
> 
> 
> 
> Once I feel a bit more comfortable with how the system is running, I'll be removing the teflon tape from the tubing. But system is up and running now and doing very well. I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dude, that's looking shmecsy as all get out. Is it seeing anyone... ? ;P


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually it is seeing me at the moment. I'm the jealous type too.







hehe

~Ceadder


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually it is seeing me at the moment. I'm the jealous type too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe
> ~Ceadder


Alright, alright, no hard feelings ;D

Looks great man, I'm glad you got it finished and completely functional!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually it is seeing me at the moment. I'm the jealous type too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, alright, no hard feelings ;D
> 
> Looks great man, I'm glad you got it finished and completely functional!
Click to expand...

Thank you. Sentiments are much appreciated.

I'm glad it's up an functional too. Just in time for the next little goody that I should be seeing in about a week or so.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Looking awesome Ceadder









I'm tweaking my loop. I took out more than a foot of "unnecessary" tube and made things a bit more stream line. And I decided to give clear tube another try. Crossing fingers this time it holds


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looking awesome Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tweaking my loop. I took out more than a foot of "unnecessary" tube and made things a bit more stream line. And I decided to give clear tube another try. Crossing fingers this time it holds


Which clear tubing are you going to use?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Which clear tubing are you going to use?


I picked a roll of Watts from Home Depot. It was $4 and I'm hoping this one will last. If it doesn't I still have the black piece that I'll put back in.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I picked a roll of Watts from Home Depot. It was $4 and I'm hoping this one will last. If it doesn't I still have the black piece that I'll put back in.


Ah I see. I have a 10ft roll of Watts from a few weeks back, after reading some of your posts in the the plasticizer thread. I haven't tried installing it though since I later read you ran into the same issues with the cloudiness. Keep us updated on how this new roll does.


----------



## SXRguyinMA

Here's my beast.


----------



## Willhemmens

SXRguyinMA, the Rad on the back doesn't seem to fit the build.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> That's degrees C. Also I wouldn't mix fans on a rad. Generally the RX360 is better.
> 
> 
> 
> The mix seems to be doing OK right now on a RS360. Yea I would think the RX360 is better, guess I'll just stick with it. So where in the world did this graph come from??
> 
> 0-9 degrees Celsius...whoa that's cold!
Click to expand...

It is indeed Delta and from here by the wonderful Bundymania!

Edit: How did I double post......


----------



## zer0signa1

Well I finally got the Torture Rack in, and setup.... Still need to invest in a few more things to make this complete, finish wire sleeving, compression fittings, 2nd water pump, another 240 Rad, another Res, different lighting. But here is where I am at now.

Original Setup:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/19110_30#post_16879289


----------



## NoGuru

I like it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Ah I see. I have a 10ft roll of Watts from a few weeks back, after reading some of your posts in the the plasticizer thread. I haven't tried installing it though since I later read you ran into the same issues with the cloudiness. Keep us updated on how this new roll does.


Its been a few months so I went searching for some sort of clue that would possibly indicate a change. I did notice the hash marks were different so I thought I would give a try. I'll see what happens. It also gave me a chance to simplify the loop.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> 
> 
> Rig is now complete! Replaced all the barbs with monsoon fittings, which are great and relatively cheap.
> This is my first go at water cooling, so I wasnt sure what to expect for temps.
> For ambient at 29c:
> i5 2500k @ 4.5 GHz 1.288v load temp = 55c
> SLI 570s @ 850 MHz 1.05v load temp = 48c
> Temps are much lower than air, and quieter too! I was thinking about adding an EX120 since I have space, but would that really make a difference?


I didn't realize the angled Monsoon fittings were out already... I thought they were still beta testing them as of last week? I desperately need some to finish off my loop. Where did you get it from


----------



## nycste

this got burried instantly a page or two ago any help identifying what kinda leds this guy uses? and would anyone recommend something similiar?

lastly would these lights reflect UV lights into a purplish blueish color?


----------



## DirectOverkill

SXRguyinMA, very cool build


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I didn't realize the angled Monsoon fittings were out already... I thought they were still beta testing them as of last week? I desperately need some to finish off my loop. Where did you get it from


They aren't, he most likely used bitspower angles and put the Monsoons on.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SXRguyinMA*
> 
> Here's my beast.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's amazing mate! Which ram blocks (or ram sticks with blocks) are you using? Interesting how you have that routed/plumbed. I like your psu sleeve job, nice colors to contrast the build


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SXRguyinMA*
> 
> Here's my beast.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SXRguyinMA*


The shiny black paint on that external rad sticks out like a sore thumb. If you sanded that down and repainted it to match the rest of the build the whole thing would be seamless.

Still an awesome build nonetheless! I love the aftermarket switches on the front.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this got burried instantly a page or two ago any help identifying what kinda leds this guy uses? and would anyone recommend something similiar?
> 
> lastly would these lights reflect UV lights into a purplish blueish color?


I believe that's an NZXT LED kit. Gets its power directly from your board from 4pin Molex and strings wherever you need the most light.









Near as I can tell without scouring the Net for you, there is no UV setup which would be Purple. The closest NZXT has(at PPCs') is white.









~Ceadder


----------



## LokSupguller

Yea, it definitely is NZXT LED lights, I can tell by the sleeving


----------



## GrayFawkes

Here's mine


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe that's an NZXT LED kit. Gets its power directly from your board from 4pin Molex and strings wherever you need the most light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Near as I can tell without scouring the Net for you, there is no UV setup which would be Purple. The closest NZXT has(at PPCs') is white.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LokSupguller*
> 
> Yea, it definitely is NZXT LED lights, I can tell by the sleeving


ok thanks guys i will look them up and see my options


----------



## kody7839

Just wrapped it up this weekend:


















































Parts (in loop order):

XSPC Dual Bay rez
Koolance 450 D5 pump
XSPC EX240 rad up top
XSPC Raystorm CPU block
EVGA 680 Hydro Copper block by Swiftech
XSPC RX240 rad on bottom
Black PrimoFlex Pro LRT 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD
XSPC Black Chrome compression fittings
4xGentle Typhoon AP-15's


----------



## DrJns

looks good. my favorite part is the scotch tape in the first picture


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> looks good. my favorite part is the scotch tape in the first picture


Good think you can't see it when the side is on


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Looking sharp! Glad to see the Koolance blocks went to a good home.


Thanks for the great deal! I got both for the price of one really







The blocks are excellent and keep the GPUs almost at the same temp as the water.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> That's degrees C. Also I wouldn't mix fans on a rad. Generally the RX360 is better.
> 
> 
> 
> The mix seems to be doing OK right now on a RS360. Yea I would think the RX360 is better, guess I'll just stick with it. So where in the world did this graph come from??
> 
> 0-9 degrees Celsius...whoa that's cold!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It is indeed Delta and from here by the wonderful Bundymania!
> 
> Edit: How did I double post......
Click to expand...

People please do your self a favor and read the full review, that graph only tells part of the story.


----------



## kubed_zero

Hey guys, for tubing, would you recommend MasterKleer or Primochill LRT Pro? I'll be needing 1/2 inch ID and 3/4 OD, but am worried about plasticizer issues


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> Hey guys, for tubing, would you recommend MasterKleer or Primochill LRT Pro? I'll be needing 1/2 inch ID and 3/4 OD, but am worried about plasticizer issues


I'm thinking that a lot of the "Plasticizer Issues" are more like Flux issues. But it looks like there isn't a real difference of one company over another for this problem. They all seem to have a defective batch at one time or other. From what I've seen in the thread regarding this. I have to say that I'm kind of Partial to PrimoChill LRT. It's what I'm currently running. Might change to another type for comparison's sake if I can find some in white. I have to admit that I wasn't convinced that the white would look good in my build since it's predominately Red and Black, but white looks sick!









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm thinking that a lot of the "Plasticizer Issues" are more like Flux issues. But it looks like there isn't a real difference of one company over another for this problem. They all seem to have a defective batch at one time or other. From what I've seen in the thread regarding this. I have to say that I'm kind of Partial to PrimoChill LRT. It's what I'm currently running. Might change to another type for comparison's sake if I can find some in white. I have to admit that I wasn't convinced that the white would look good in my build since it's predominately Red and Black, but white looks sick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


White tube ftw









So....looking at your avatar looks like you won't be running that sli fitting to the mb block?


----------



## bomberjun




----------



## Ceadderman

^^^







Need a straight on pic of that smecsiness bruh ^^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm thinking that a lot of the "Plasticizer Issues" are more like Flux issues. But it looks like there isn't a real difference of one company over another for this problem. They all seem to have a defective batch at one time or other. From what I've seen in the thread regarding this. I have to say that I'm kind of Partial to PrimoChill LRT. It's what I'm currently running. Might change to another type for comparison's sake if I can find some in white. I have to admit that I wasn't convinced that the white would look good in my build since it's predominately Red and Black, but white looks sick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White tube ftw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So....looking at your avatar looks like you won't be running that sli fitting to the mb block?
Click to expand...

Oh hell, thanks for reminding me to add the barrels to lift up the 90s' for that to my order. Completely forgot about that.









~Ceadder


----------



## bomberjun

As per request.










Thanks!


----------



## Kires

^^^ You should come deck out my compy ^^^


----------



## nycste

Hey all, can anyone find me a picture of a Rosewill Thor V2 with some watercooling mods? esp a 360 on top or anything else... I literally cannot find anything bigger then a 240 or external stuff.


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SXRguyinMA*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zer0signa1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!


Jesus Christ!
When are these set to detonate!?









Looking sick.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> Hey guys, for tubing, would you recommend MasterKleer or Primochill LRT Pro? I'll be needing 1/2 inch ID and 3/4 OD, but am worried about plasticizer issues


Check out some of the info in my sig link. I'm inclined to say Primochill over Masterkleer.


----------



## SXRguyinMA

yea it was supposed to be inside but didn't fit and I didn't have time to paint it and add the shroud to it like I wanted before the contest deadline


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> thanks for the response had i known this i would of never ordered the white from the store esp since the store told it it would glow and that "ALL" white reflected UV.... O well 20bucks spent and gone I can always reuse and be happy with the UV strips in another setup. I do like that link you sent very informative.


Anytime mate


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I'm not too fond of wheels or handles either but I've found myself wishing I had handles on my 932 before adding water cooling. Not too many LAN straps will fit this bad boy for even short jaunts to the Kitchen. I kind like those wheels because the stabilizers can act as feet though. That's one of my next moves is a good set of Case feet that are black and are about as thick as a pair of stacked CM 932 feet. Maybe a little thicker. But only if they look good and are black. Can't be some cheap rinky dink out of place looking case feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those kinda look cool since they are black and red. Though I'm not too fond of open body wheels. That's cheap looking imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Check these feet out-i just added a set to my rig. They are well made, chunky Aluminium, with a rubber insert for vibrations-price isn't that bad either:



I can post a photo if you want, i haven't got round to updating my work log-too much work


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> well, time for an update =D. i added two UV cathodes (i would have preferred LED's but i dont have access to any atm, two green uv gelid fans (i LOVE these fans... so awesome... and they come with uv silicon fan mounts and PPC sleeved them for me for free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). one is is rear exhaust, and one is in bottom intake. and, as you can probably see, i added uv anti kink coils, not because i needed them, but because i like the looks XP. hopefully i will be putting the gfx card under and adding that 120mm rad (im thinking a black ice GT Stealth 120 XFlow... thoughts?), as well as moving my rx240 into the case soon. any thoughts/comments appreciated


XSPC RX 120 all the way imho (providing that you have the space)- rig is coming along mate-good job


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> ok thanks guys i will look them up and see my options


They are correct with regards to the NZXT light strip-i used a blue one for all of 2 hrs then removed it-it works great, but it wasn't for me.

With regards to your Purple light or similar effect, actually there is a solution.

If the inside of your case is black or predominately black, using a Phobya High density UV strip will give you the purple effect you seek, along with its UV glow on your UV parts within your case-click on my sig link (page 2), there is a photo with the said effect. Please excuse the photography-David Bailey am i not


----------



## Aventadoor

I recived this today with some more stuff:


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I recived this today with some more stuff


I really love the design of that bayres but it still bothers me that the pumps are mounted in that orientation. They should be mounted on the bottom side so air bubbles can't rise up into the pump motor and cause damage. I'm sure they took that into account when they made it, but I'd still be hesitant to buy it for that reason alone. It's way with the DDC model as well


----------



## Onions

check out ma build log buys







http://www.overclock.net/t/1215219/project-lan-update-april-16/0_100


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> They aren't, he most likely used bitspower angles and put the Monsoons on.


I've been waiting for a couple of months now for the makers of the Monsoons to finish up their angled fittings, so unfortunately it's the one thing holding up my build. I've followed their updates on another forum for the last couple of months, but if I don't see them on online shelves by next month, I may end up doing the same and use bitsppower angles with the Monsoon fittings. I really don't want to, but if that's what it takes to finish my build, then that's what I'm going to have to do.


----------



## 1rkrage

the black chrome monsoons matches with the bitspower 45 degree angle fittings at least that's what I did for mine


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> the black chrome monsoons matches with the bitspower 45 degree angle fittings at least that's what I did for mine


But are these suitable for the tight spaces between motherboard and CPU blocks? Because that's essentially the only thing I'm waiting for to finish this loop.

This is what Monsoon said on another forum as of yesterday:

"_Angles are looking good. I am just waiting for an "all clear" from the USPTO to post some info on them.

Also have another fitting type sort of item for those wrestling with closely spaced ports on secondary motherboard blocks and GPU's almost ready for show and tell...about a week or two till I can show it...and it is not anything OMG major either...just a little cool.

Sorry they (the angles) are taking longer than anyone would like but it turns out those suckers are a lot of work because the bodies are cast then machined, not just machined from solid stock. Going as fast as our little company can guys. - BoxGods"_

Source: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?278573-Monsoon-Free-Center-Compression-Fittings/page14


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> They are correct with regards to the NZXT light strip-i used a blue one for all of 2 hrs then removed it-it works great, but it wasn't for me.
> With regards to your Purple light or similar effect, actually there is a solution.
> If the inside of your case is black or predominately black, using a Phobya High density UV strip will give you the purple effect you seek, along with its UV glow on your UV parts within your case-click on my sig link (page 2), there is a photo with the said effect. Please excuse the photography-David Bailey am i not


Your case is def purplish and very bright haha nice


----------



## Ceadderman

If you don't want the Gold Dragon logo on them you could also go with the EK 45s' and 90s' that Hellfire PC carries on eBay. Same fitting cheaper price. I can't say for sure they are the same but if you held them up together the EK ones look exactly like them. $7.99 and free shipping.









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you don't want the Gold Dragon logo on them you could also go with the EK 45s' and 90s' that Hellfire PC carries on eBay. Same fitting cheaper price. I can't say for sure they are the same but if you held them up together the EK ones look exactly like them. $7.99 and free shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That sounds very promising. And you're also spot on with the logo. Seeing as my conpression fittings are black chrome, the gold emblem would throw my color theme off.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I recived this today with some more stuff:


Grats!









Few days ago, You bought this from eBay, right!?


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Grats!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few days ago, You bought this from eBay, right!?


No I bought it on sunday from my local homie watercooling store!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you don't want the Gold Dragon logo on them you could also go with the EK 45s' and 90s' that Hellfire PC carries on eBay. Same fitting cheaper price. I can't say for sure they are the same but if you held them up together the EK ones look exactly like them. $7.99 and free shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That sounds very promising. And you're also spot on with the logo. Seeing as my conpression fittings are black chrome, the gold emblem would throw my color theme off.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna be getting a couple of those EK fittings to clean things up a bit. Too bad he doesn't carry their Black Nickel Comps, but I'll take what I can get.









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm gonna be getting a couple of those EK fittings to clean things up a bit. Too bad he doesn't carry their Black Nickel Comps, but I'll take what I can get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll give Monsoon the benefit of the doubt to stick to their commitment on getting their angled fittings done in the coming weeks. So I may just give them a deadline to see if they stick to their word. And if they don't deliver before the end of next month, then I'll settle for the black EK angles.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> No I bought it on sunday from my local homie watercooling store!


Didn't know there were local stores out there that didn't just do the usual bs "repair, antivirus, slow fix" service.


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> XSPC RX 120 all the way imho (providing that you have the space)- rig is coming along mate-good job


thanks







, sorry for the late reply, i finally had a chance to get on the forum. after looking at the performance difference i will defiantly use the rx instead of the gt, i just wish that the rx had the one feature of the gt i like... the barbs on the gt are one on each side instead of right next to each other, but in the end, it just means i have to route tubing slightly differently, so its no big deal. i will definately update with pics and such when the parts get here.

also, on an unrelated note, a word to the wise to those purchasing logisys cathodes (the cathodes sold by performance-pc's). the stock adhesive on the velcro pads SUCKs. use small pieces of industrial velcro or some other adhesive (another type of velcro will probably do the job, i wouldnt suggest using glue or double sided tape... could get messy...). other than that im happy with the build so far. depending on budget i will either be ordering the next batch of parts this weekend or next. so far it seems the next batch will be composed of masterkleer uv purple tubing, some pt nuke, more distilled water, the ek 6870 block with 1/2" barbs (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=33575), and the rx 120. my other option (if i feel like being really patient) is to wait until may 5th to order another batch... that might allow me to order suitable compression fittings, but, we shall see. as usual, any comments/suggestions appreciated


----------



## TheJesus

You all get a sneak preview


















See my build log for full part list. Quick idea, D5, MaxIV Block, 2x 7950 w/ Backplate (first I've seen with 2 and backplates), HF Supreme, SR1 360, EX240, and FrozenQ Orange/Black.


----------



## Ceadderman

Very nice TJ. love the clean routing of your tubing. I'm pretty sure you have no kink there but from Rad to Pump the tubing looks twisted. Might be but it looks hella clean regardless. *Clean routing FTW!*









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very nice TJ. love the clean routing of your tubing. I'm pretty sure you have no kink there but from Rad to Pump the tubing looks twisted. Might be but it looks hella clean regardless. *Clean routing FTW!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There isn't an actual kink as I heated the tubing up before putting it there, but its twisted for sure. If I had extra money to blow on angles, I'd have a ton of them in there









Thanks


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> also, on an unrelated note, a word to the wise to those purchasing logisys cathodes (the cathodes sold by performance-pc's). the stock adhesive on the velcro pads SUCKs. use small pieces of industrial velcro or some other adhesive (another type of velcro will probably do the job, i wouldnt suggest using glue or double sided tape... could get messy...).


Good advise mate!

I have a set of those in my shopping cart @ performance-pc's, so that is really good to know. I'll be sure to get some velcro aswell









Thanks!


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> Good advise mate!
> I have a set of those in my shopping cart @ performance-pc's, so that is really good to know. I'll be sure to get some velcro aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


no problem, im happy to help =). it was driving me absolutely nuts, i dont want anyone to go through that XD.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Wondering if anyone can tell me if this is just regular red tubing, some special brand where its dark red, or if its clear tubing with dyed water? Im looking for tubing of that shade but every red i see is too bright. I need more of a "blood red"










Thanks for the help


----------



## toaad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Wondering if anyone can tell me if this is just regular red tubing, some special brand where its dark red, or if its clear tubing with dyed water? Im looking for tubing of that shade but every red i see is too bright. I need more of a "blood red"
> 
> Thanks for the help


Thats clear tubing with dye, I hear alot of good things about mayhems dyes, check them out


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toaad*
> 
> Thats clear tubing with dye, I hear alot of good things about mayhems dyes, check them out


Thank you ill look into it.. I was kinda hoping to stay away from dyes since im plannin on using those "T-virus" res from FrozenQ. Maybe i can still get away with it using a dye.. hmmm


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *toaad*
> 
> Thats clear tubing with dye, I hear alot of good things about mayhems dyes, check them out
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you ill look into it.. I was kinda hoping to stay away from dyes since im plannin on using those "T-virus" res from FrozenQ. Maybe i can still get away with it using a dye.. hmmm
Click to expand...

I wouldn't use dye but I hear good things about Mayhems dyes. If you like to see what dye looks like in Tvirus check out Daz Mode's You Tube Channel. I couldn't tell you which one but he does a Review of 250mm T virus Res with green dye. Looks pretty good.









...

Hey guys how many of you spent money on tubing cutters? How many of you have a set of Miracle Blade II knives?





I love my MB IIs' but the All Purpose Blade(i.e. Bread and Carving knife) works AWESOMELY as a tubing cutter. Cheap enough where your wife or GF won't freak out if you use it and gets hella straight cuts when you secure the tubing as I've done in a table top vice. Cuts right through it like butter.









The knife set comes with TWO of those bad boys so you can squirrel one away for things like this an the missus wouldn't even miss it. I've had my set for awhile now and almost spent money on a "tubing cutter", this knife saved me $15 minimum.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't use dye but I hear good things about Mayhems dyes. If you like to see what dye looks like in Tvirus check out Daz Mode's You Tube Channel. I couldn't tell you which one but he does a Review of 250mm T virus Res with green dye. Looks pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Youtube vids take forever to load here in afghanistan..

I found an interesting article about dying clear tubing. I might try that out.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=618944


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't use dye but I hear good things about Mayhems dyes. If you like to see what dye looks like in Tvirus check out Daz Mode's You Tube Channel. I couldn't tell you which one but he does a Review of 250mm T virus Res with green dye. Looks pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Youtube vids take forever to load here in afghanistan..
> 
> I found an interesting article about dying clear tubing. I might try that out.
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=618944
Click to expand...

Clear tubing dyed red
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6260856&postcount=15


----------



## bundymania

http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=sZm588LZ

My Wallpaper Gallery - updated


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=sZm588LZ
> My Wallpaper Gallery - updated


Wow, great looking custom work


----------



## Antykain

Speaking of Monsoon.. I just ordered the new Monsoon Silver Bullet Antimicrobial plug to replace my kill coil.










Pretty nice idea they have going on with this product... as long as you have an extra port to use it with. Which was not an issue on my end. It's only $5.95 at Performance-PCs - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33961

FrozenCPU has them for the same price: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15814/ex-tub-1255/Monsoon_999_Fine_Silver_Bullet_Antimicrobial_G_14_Plug_-_Black_MON-PLUG-AG-BLK.html

Really want to get my hand on some of the Monsoon angled fittings as soon as they are available as well. Have some plans for rerouting my tubing that I need to get done. Just waiting on those new Monsoons.


----------



## Onions

i want one of those








where in canada can i get one?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> i want one of those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where in canada can i get one?


FrozenCPU I guess. But I wouldn't make the order unless you have other things to add to the cart. Otherwise with the shipping it's quite expensive. So you probably should contact Daz or NCIX and make a formal request.









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> You all get a sneak preview
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See my build log for full part list. Quick idea, D5, MaxIV Block, 2x 7950 w/ Backplate (first I've seen with 2 and backplates), HF Supreme, SR1 360, EX240, and FrozenQ Orange/Black.


that red ripjaw mem needs to go otherwise love it









i think this would look sweet

2 sticks left orange

2 sticks painted black

but all left orange would still be sick


----------



## sate200

My rad box phobya, waiting for the 3 x 7970, picture low quality, waiting 4 shark red devil to complete rad box!!!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> that red ripjaw mem needs to go otherwise love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think this would look sweet
> 2 sticks left orange
> 2 sticks painted black
> but all left orange would still be sick


I've thought about it but I don't want to try and remove the heatsinks because the last time I did that, I pulled the mem chips with it -_- So, maybe once I get a briefcase of money I'll buy orange RAM.


----------



## superericla

Gotta love borrowing a nice camera from someone you know.


----------



## GAMERIG

*OMG*! HERE ARE MINE-


370SA AND Koolance RP-452X2 Dual Reservoir Rev 2

I will re-use *the D5 and 240mm Radiator* of *Danger Den Liquid Cooling Kit 4404* I purchased from frys in 2009.


----------



## Egameman

Permission to join







?


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I've thought about it but I don't want to try and remove the heatsinks because the last time I did that, I pulled the mem chips with it -_- So, maybe once I get a briefcase of money I'll buy orange RAM.


when u are removing the heat sinks from ram use a hair dryer to soften the adhesives it wont damadge the ram as ther is no power going thrue them u could aslo use a heat gun but be fast and "dont" i mean DONT try prying up as this can bring the ram with it

jiggle and slide them up its fidly but it works


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> *OMG*! HERE ARE MINE-
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 370SA AND Koolance RP-452X2 Dual Reservoir Rev 2
> 
> I will re-use *the D5 and 240mm Radiator* of *Danger Den Liquid Cooling Kit 4404* I purchased from frys in 2009.


Very nice. Can't wait to see it bro.









~Ceadder


----------



## SXRguyinMA

Also, here's the vid and a link to the worklog for my previous submission:




http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26767


----------



## Bouf0010

I have a question for you guys... im going to be tearing down my loop for a good cleaning and i have a little money i can spend (around $120 inc taxes & shipping)

- Option 1 - Upgrade from Rasa CPU Block to EK-Supreme HF Performance- Full Copper Rev4 ($87), order more e-coolant ($15) and keep blue tubing.

- Option 2 - Lose the blue tubing and switch to clear ($23), get some Ice dragon liquid (2 bottles) ($71) and mayhem dies (already purchased).

Im gonna be placing the order by Friday at the latest.


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> *OMG*! HERE ARE MINE-
> 
> 370SA AND Koolance RP-452X2 Dual Reservoir Rev 2
> I will re-use *the D5 and 240mm Radiator* of *Danger Den Liquid Cooling Kit 4404* I purchased from frys in 2009.


Tell us how the bay res works. I hated my 1.3


----------



## RushMore1205

thought id throw mine up here, did some very minor change,

all ssd now, no spinning drives

got 4 sad


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> thought id throw mine up here, did some very minor change,
> all ssd now, no spinning drives
> got 4 sad


I'm guessing with the res attached like that, you don't have a side panel anymore?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> I'm guessing with the res attached like that, you don't have a side panel anymore?


i hate sidepanels


----------



## Ceadderman

Why do I see Velociraptor in the other pics? Too lazy to update those Rush?









I'll update my pics when I get some Red flowing in the case again. Only one fan being Red in a black case...









~Ceadder


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very nice. Can't wait to see it bro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ceadder, Many thanks! Yeah I can't wait my rig's water cooling is a comeback!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why do I see Velociraptor in the other pics? Too lazy to update those Rush?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll update my pics when I get some Red flowing in the case again. Only one fan being Red in a black case...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


in order to update nice pictures, i need to tear everything down and clean it all, at least 8-12 hours worth of work until its picture worthy


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> *OMG*! HERE ARE MINE-
> 
> 370SA AND Koolance RP-452X2 Dual Reservoir Rev 2
> I will re-use *the D5 and 240mm Radiator* of *Danger Den Liquid Cooling Kit 4404* I purchased from frys in 2009.


if you could post how well that block performs (after install of course), that would be awesome. i have been thinking of swapping to this or the copper and acrylic supreme HF.


----------



## RushMore1205

SEXY RED GOT WET GETTING ANOTHER SMALL UPGRADE

check it out


----------



## ShortAlieN

SMALL?!

What do you consider a big update?!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> *OMG*! HERE ARE MINE-
> 
> 370SA AND Koolance RP-452X2 Dual Reservoir Rev 2
> I will re-use *the D5 and 240mm Radiator* of *Danger Den Liquid Cooling Kit 4404* I purchased from frys in 2009.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you could post how well that block performs (after install of course), that would be awesome. i have been thinking of swapping to this or the copper and acrylic supreme HF.
Click to expand...

Cast, Yeah I will do..









Anyway I was almost buy ek supreme HF,but somehow headline: Koolance had announced new 370SA AND SI that captured my attention.

370SA is very beautiful, lighter and sleek than Danger Den TDX block, IMO..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> *OMG*! HERE ARE MINE-
> 
> 370SA AND Koolance RP-452X2 Dual Reservoir Rev 2
> I will re-use *the D5 and 240mm Radiator* of *Danger Den Liquid Cooling Kit 4404* I purchased from frys in 2009.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you could post how well that block performs (after install of course), that would be awesome. i have been thinking of swapping to this or the copper and acrylic supreme HF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cast, Yeah I will do..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I was almost buy ek supreme HF,but somehow headline: Koolance had announced new 370SA AND SI that captured my attention.
> 
> 370SA is very beautiful, lighter and sleek than Danger Den TDX block, IMO..
Click to expand...

Seriously should just do eet. My Block is performing quite well with #1 HF plate in place. 37c full load after FC Mainboard block. Just think how cool this thing would run if I ran FC block after CPU or to Radiator then CPU. My block is version 1. Newer V2 blocks are supposed to be better. Can't be much better but this block is kickin ass an chewin bubblegum. It's fresh out of Bubblegum.







lol

Rush, what series of Doms are those?









~Ceadder


----------



## ROG1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SXRguyinMA*
> 
> Also, here's the vid and a link to the worklog for my previous submission:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26767


wow best of the best system...nice job beb....


----------



## RushMore1205

dominator gt 2000mhz, ill have to look for more info for you


----------



## RushMore1205

hey can you guys help me out here????

http://www.overclock.net/t/1245468/very-special-gtx560ti-448core-how-much


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> SEXY RED GOT WET GETTING ANOTHER SMALL UPGRADE
> check it out


Why only dual channel... x79 is quadchannel







Going to take a HUGE performance hit by only having 2 dimms.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> *OMG*! HERE ARE MINE-
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 370SA AND Koolance RP-452X2 Dual Reservoir Rev 2
> I will re-use *the D5 and 240mm Radiator* of *Danger Den Liquid Cooling Kit 4404* I purchased from frys in 2009.


Really like the look of those AMD Koolance blocks.. Tell us how it performs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Blocks on....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> SEXY RED GOT WET GETTING ANOTHER SMALL UPGRADE
> check it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why only dual channel... x79 is quadchannel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to take a HUGE performance hit by only having 2 dimms.
Click to expand...

That's an awfully big package for Dual Channel Dimms. Pretty sure he got a 4x4 kit.









~Ceadder


----------



## ChrisTahoe

Updated my build a bit.

Went from this:


To this:


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's an awfully big package for Dual Channel Dimms. Pretty sure he got a 4x4 kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nope, that looks like 2 dimms of corsair ram. Well that's the package my two dominator sticks came in.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Why only dual channel... x79 is quadchannel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to take a HUGE performance hit by only having 2 dimms.


I'm going to give this a try, though my board only has four dimms but still supports quad or dual.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey guys, check this badboy out...



Aquacomputer Aquaduct 720










~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey guys, check this badboy out...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Aquaduct 720
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes, but can it run Crysis 1.0?


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey guys, check this badboy out...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Aquaduct 720
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but can it run Crysis 1.0?
Click to expand...

On Ultra settings?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> On Ultra settings?












These remind me of off the shelf vertical air filters/purifiers.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These remind me of off the shelf vertical air filters/purifiers.


Strap a hepa filter to it and go!


----------



## ShortAlieN

Holy craps that thing is expensive... It comes with some good stuff, but... no.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey guys, check this badboy out...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Aquaduct 720
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but can it run Crysis 1.0?
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm thinking it can. Ceramic setup.









The control unit at the top(as well as ceramic setup) is what makes it so spendy.









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> Speaking of Monsoon.. I just ordered the new Monsoon Silver Bullet Antimicrobial plug to replace my kill coil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty nice idea they have going on with this product... as long as you have an extra port to use it with. Which was not an issue on my end. It's only $5.95 at Performance-PCs - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33961
> FrozenCPU has them for the same price: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15814/ex-tub-1255/Monsoon_999_Fine_Silver_Bullet_Antimicrobial_G_14_Plug_-_Black_MON-PLUG-AG-BLK.html
> Really want to get my hand on some of the Monsoon angled fittings as soon as they are available as well. Have some plans for rerouting my tubing that I need to get done. Just waiting on those new Monsoons.


This blows chunks. I had no idea this product was in the works from Monsoon. I placed an order just a day after this product came out. Had I known about it, I would have included it in my order and would have it with the rest of my stuff. Fortunately I still have to order my 90 degree Monsoon fittings at some point, so I can just include these along with them.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Why only dual channel... x79 is quadchannel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to take a HUGE performance hit by only having 2 dimms.


first of its not a huge performance hit, and im gettting another set of these, these run in quadchanel no problem
tested for over a month in my lab at work


----------



## ShortAlieN

So who wants to give me a comparison of the Monsoon vs. Bitspower fittings? I have been a faithful user of BitsPower for a couple of years now and their fittings are almost always what I want. I see Monsoon has white fittings and would really like to have them in my build, but I dont want to drop quality for looks. I have tried to get BitsPower to get some white ones out, but so far... no luck. So what do you guys think?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> So who wants to give me a comparison of the Monsoon vs. Bitspower fittings? I have been a faithful user of BitsPower for a couple of years now and their fittings are almost always what I want. I see Monsoon has white fittings and would really like to have them in my build, but I dont want to drop quality for looks. I have tried to get BitsPower to get some white ones out, but so far... no luck. So what do you guys think?


I tried both before committing to the Monsoons. If you're convinced the monsoons are prettier, there's no reason not to make the switch. Sometimes I wish I'd chosen the Bits for cosmetic purposes, but I have no regrets on the quality of my compressions.


----------



## ShortAlieN

Prettier can be argued, I like the BitsPower fittings. Its just that the Monsoon fittings are white. I like white, but I have a crapload of fittings. I just dont want to spend a grip of money on new fittings and have them not be up to par.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Prettier can be argued, I like the BitsPower fittings. Its just that the Monsoon fittings are white. I like white, but I have a crapload of fittings. I just dont want to spend a grip of money on new fittings and have them not be up to par.


They are definitely up to par. I was pretty disappointed they don't make white in 1/2" x 3/4".


----------



## ShortAlieN

I like my tube at 3/8" x 1/2"

It's very clean and does not take up much space. Easier to put in smaller areas as well.

Ahem.... 1/2"x3/4"

I tink you missed them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> I like my tube at 3/8" x 1/2"
> 
> It's very clean and does not take up much space. *Easier to put in smaller areas as well.*
> 
> Ahem.... 1/2"x3/4"
> 
> I tink you missed them.


Meh, size is relevant. It's not how big it's what you do with it.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

How's this cart from performance-pcs for a WCing redo, gonna add a gpu block and 120 rad to my loop (240 rad) sometime in the near future.
i need help finding better/cheaper compressions. I want matte black or blue, and i want some black adapters for the res, but theyre so expensive. I dont wanna spend $60 on fittings
Edit:
i meant to include this


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> How's this cart from performance-pcs for a WCing redo, gonna add a gpu block and 120 rad to my loop (240 rad) sometime in the near future.
> i need help finding better/cheaper compressions. I want matte black or blue, and i want some black adapters for the res, but theyre so expensive. I dont wanna spend $60 on fittings


Pic of your current setup and your cart would be nice. A lot of us are visual builders.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

woops here they are



dwood is making me a PSU cover soon, and ill hide my pump where my bottom fan is now, i asked him to include two holes for tubing.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, size is relevant. It's not how big it's what you do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So it's more about the motion of the ocean?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> So it's more about the motion of the ocean?


Proper routing to prevent accidental spouting?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> woops here they are
> 
> 
> 
> dwood is making me a PSU cover soon, and ill hide my pump where my bottom fan is now, i asked him to include two holes for tubing.


Why go with G3/8 fittings? Everything you want can be had with G1/4s'.









Maybe not the AC Res, but you can get Phobya Res with G1/4. I'd have to check to make sure that's where you're at but assuming so, you could dump the adapter rings by going with a different Res.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why go with G3/8 fittings? Everything you want can be had with G1/4s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe not the AC Res, but you can get Phobya Res with G1/4. I'd have to check to make sure that's where you're at but assuming so, you could dump the adapter rings by going with a different Res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i just love the res and its cheap, if you can help me find one similar, that would be great!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Some quick pics. Sorry for quality.




































Finally checked my filter. Been running around 2 months and not a single bit of residue from flux or algae buildup. No ptnuke, no kill coil, just plain ole distilled.


----------



## ShortAlieN

Holy Hard Drives Batman!


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> So who wants to give me a comparison of the Monsoon vs. Bitspower fittings? I have been a faithful user of BitsPower for a couple of years now and their fittings are almost always what I want. I see Monsoon has white fittings and would really like to have them in my build, but I dont want to drop quality for looks. I have tried to get BitsPower to get some white ones out, but so far... no luck. So what do you guys think?


I have BP and Monsoon fittings in my rig, both work perfectly fine and as they should.
On a personal level, I love the Monsoon. they look great, work as they should, and I was able to use mine with out the tool.
Note, I did purchase the tool, but found it does not work correctly when using 1/2x3/4 tubing.


----------



## zdude

what do you do store your whole neighborhoods life on there? obviously there is more than enough for yours


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> what do you do store your whole neighborhoods life on there? obviously there is more than enough for yours


Well, so far I have like 7 TB used up. Last lanwar I went to I downloaded literally every single file off of the ftps just in case some is lost between then and the next event. I have very little faith that people take as good care of rigs as I do.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Holy Hard Drives Batman!


Save that thought for this.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why go with G3/8 fittings? Everything you want can be had with G1/4s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe not the AC Res, but you can get Phobya Res with G1/4. I'd have to check to make sure that's where you're at but assuming so, you could dump the adapter rings by going with a different Res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just love the res and its cheap, if you can help me find one similar, that would be great!
Click to expand...

Bitspower "BP-WTZM150P-BK" $36

Swiftech Res if you're going DDC pump $30

Would be killer in series with another res and pump if you were of a mind to run them. If you don't yet have your pump(s) lined up get with bmaverick. He's got DDC-1Ts' for $35 each shipped. That's what I'm running and will be getting another one from him soon hopefully.









Or the old standby Swiftech Micro Res Micro MCRES-MICRO-REV2 $25. You will find these last two in Misc. Reservoirs at PPCs'.









Also make sure to figure out how you're gonna fill and drain your loop, if you haven't already. I cannot begin to recommend a fillport and drain hose enough. Before my system got finished, I had to drain and fill it a couple times. Once because I found a leak that could have been catastrophic.









~Ceadder


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Save that thought for this.


the good ole days when harddrives were cheap. Glad I bought all of mine back then too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Holy hell werm your system came along beautifully...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Some quick pics. Sorry for quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally checked my filter. Been running around 2 months and not a single bit of residue from flux or algae buildup. No ptnuke, no kill coil, just plain ole distilled.


j/k Stallion. Great job Mate.



























~Ceadder


----------



## ShortAlieN

cheebus.... way too much. I need moar!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Holy hell werm your system came along beautifully...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> j/k Stallion. Great job Mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


LULZ! U had me for a second. Werm's is mine's itty bitty brother. If you can call a slightly shorter doublewide "itty bitty". Too bad DD doesn't make bigger cases. This one is way too constricting. Need moar rads.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Well, so far I have like 7 TB used up. Last lanwar I went to I downloaded literally every single file off of the ftps just in case some is lost between then and the next event. I have very little faith that people take as good care of rigs as I do.


First,














for your rig.









Second, you actually bring your entire setup with you to lan parties? I mean all three monitors and what not too?? If so,


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> First,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for your rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second, you actually bring your entire setup with you to lan parties? I mean all three monitors and what not too?? If so,


I do bring the rig to lans. It's not too bad. Just toss it on a dolly and off it goes. Stands right up in my truck after I fold up one of the back seats. Getting it in is the problem. Can't count the times I almost died of a heart attack from almost dropping it. Only one monitor goes tho. Don't feel like buying two seats at MML and lanwar. All of my friends bring their doublewides and huge rigs wced rigs. Nice conversation starter and really not that much effort. Should also help for when we open a shop on the side in a few years since ppl can see what we can build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> LULZ! U had me for a second. Werm's is mine's itty bitty brother. If you can call a slightly shorter doublewide "itty bitty". Too bad DD doesn't make bigger cases. This one is way too constricting. Need moar rads.












I do agree about the depth of the case. Once those sr1s go in with push/pull, and then the ST1500 (







), man, its cramped! Good thing my mb is standard atx. What a pita it was with the eatx EVGA board. I really would have liked if this came with an XL-atx layout to raise the gpu(s) a bit. I don't have your library of hdd so I wouldn't mind loosing a few 3.5" bays and an 80mm fan. But, at the price I got my case at, I'm not really one to complain


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do agree about the depth of the case. Once those sr1s go in with push/pull, and then the ST1500 (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), man, its cramped! Good thing my mb is standard atx. What a pita it was with the eatx EVGA board. I really would have liked if this came with an XL-atx layout to raise the gpu(s) a bit. I don't have your library of hdd so I wouldn't mind loosing a few 3.5" bays and an 80mm fan. But, at the price I got my case at, I'm not really one to complain


Another 10 inches taller would be perfect. Could add a ton of 5.25 bays for "gizmos" and allow for 16 more hhds and push/pull. Would love to throw an aquaero with all the gadgets in the 5.25 bays.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> I do bring the rig to lans. It's not too bad. Just toss it on a dolly and off it goes. Stands right up in my truck after I fold up one of the back seats. Getting it in is the problem. Can't count the times I almost died of a heart attack from almost dropping it. Only one monitor goes tho. Don't feel like buying two seats at MML and lanwar. All of my friends bring their doublewides and huge rigs wced rigs. Nice conversation starter and really not that much effort. Should also help for when we open a shop on the side in a few years since ppl can see what we can build.


Haha, that's awesome! I'd love to hear those starting conversations... "Oh this rig? Yeah, the CPU block alone costs more than most mid range GPU's."


----------



## GAMERIG

BYE, BYE HI-ENDED AIR COOLER

HELLO WATER COOLER's RENEWAL CHAPTER in My Life!


I notice the Pump/Dual 5.25 Reservoir Combo sets up easy, quickly and save my time than individual Reservoir and pump sets up, IMO.

NOTE: this isn't done..


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Haha, that's awesome! I'd love to hear those starting conversations... "Oh this rig? Yeah, the CPU block alone costs more than most mid range GPU's."


I always tell people I have no idea how much since I don't want it stolen lol, not that anyone there could actually carry it out. Our row of rigs (mine, LD V8, Pinnacle 24, Caselabs M8, UFO, and heavily modified antec 1200) usually gets ignored since none of them are bright and flashy. Everyone is always attracted to the flashy overly UVed out M8 build behind us. All he does is complain about how his build log never got as popular even tho everyone stops by at lans (my theory is that you can see a light house at night).


----------



## Manavapor

Hey guys, been lurking for a few weeks now prepping for my first WC build. Just pulled the trigger on the following:



Going to be cooling a 3770k to start, then when I get a better video card I will throw that in the loop with another rad. Some great rigs in this thread, hope mine will be show worthy soon!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> I always tell people I have no idea how much since I don't want it stolen lol, not that anyone there could actually carry it out. Our row of rigs (mine, LD V8, Pinnacle 24, Caselabs M8, UFO, and heavily modified antec 1200) usually gets ignored since none of them are bright and flashy. Everyone is always attracted to the flashy overly UVed out M8 build behind us. All he does is complain about how his build log never got as popular even tho everyone stops by at lans (my theory is that you can see a light house at night).


Note to self: watch the climatic scene of Fast Five









I'm sure all those rigs in your pad are starting to resemble a collector's car garage







Btw, any new killer rides?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manavapor*
> 
> Hey guys, been lurking for a few weeks now prepping for my first WC build. Just pulled the trigger on the following:
> 
> Going to be cooling a 3770k to start, then when I get a better video card I will throw that in the loop with another rad. Some great rigs in this thread, hope mine will be show worthy soon!


Congrats! Have fun building! The first build is always the most fun since you're just testing the waters.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Note to self: watch the climatic scene of Fast Five
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure all those rigs in your pad are starting to resemble a collector's car garage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, any new killer rides?


They're actually all in pieces right now except this one. My MM rig is broken down so I can take it to powdercoat (if I ever get around to it) and so I can part out all of the watercooling parts on here over the summer. Need to get rid of the rads, pumps, fittings, and fans so I can pick up IB parts to make a htpc out of the MM build (I want all gtx series rads now since I fell in love with them). No new rides. Street wheels and tires going on the buggy is about it. $ is not as abundant as when I started this build lol. Plan was turbo, but other things need to be done.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> I always tell people I have no idea how much since I don't want it stolen lol, not that anyone there could actually carry it out. Our row of rigs (*mine, LD V8, Pinnacle 24, Caselabs M8, UFO, and heavily modified antec 1200*) usually gets ignored since none of them are bright and flashy. Everyone is always attracted to the flashy overly UVed out M8 build behind us. All he does is complain about how his build log never got as popular even tho everyone stops by at lans (my theory is that you can see a light house at night).


Wow, if all of *that* gets ignored, then it's easy to see why some lights and paint can draw crowds at those events, lol.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Wow, if all of *that* gets ignored, then it's easy to see why some lights and paint can draw crowds at those events, lol.


Yeah, here's a pic. On the right with the windows logon screen is our row. Left side is what I'm talking about. Reminds me of my first build... which is now in pieces because I hate it with all of my being. Honestly most people don't know what the cases are and have no idea what hardware looks like so it's not a big deal. Just nice to get together with friends and see what each has done to the rig since last.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manavapor*
> 
> Hey guys, been lurking for a few weeks now prepping for my first WC build. Just pulled the trigger on the following:
> 
> Going to be cooling a 3770k to start, then when I get a better video card I will throw that in the loop with another rad. Some great rigs in this thread, hope mine will be show worthy soon!


What site did you use and what coupon is that!


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Yeah, here's a pic. On the right with the windows logon screen is our row. Left side is what I'm talking about. Reminds me of my first build... which is now in pieces because I hate it with all of my being. Honestly most people don't know what the cases are and have no idea what hardware looks like so it's not a big deal. Just nice to get together with friends and see what each has done to the rig since last.


That's really cool.







I would love to attend something similar to that here in NJ. Sadly, I still have much to do on my own rig so hopefully there won't be one around here a little while.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manavapor*
> 
> Hey guys, been lurking for a few weeks now prepping for my first WC build. Just pulled the trigger on the following:
> 
> Going to be cooling a 3770k to start, then when I get a better video card I will throw that in the loop with another rad. Some great rigs in this thread, hope mine will be show worthy soon!


Good to see another member get wet









How many fittings are you including in your order btw? Get two barbs for each item, in most cases (ie, cpu block, rad, res, etc.).


----------



## Manavapor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> What site did you use and what coupon is that!


Jab-tech, coupon code "facebook"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good to see another member get wet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many fittings are you including in your order btw? Get two barbs for each item, in most cases (ie, cpu block, rad, res, etc.).


I am planning on at least 8, and then a few more if I figure out how I want to do a drain/fill port.

What do you guys think about the new swiftech fittings?
http://www.swiftech.com/lok-seal.aspx


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manavapor*
> 
> Jab-tech, coupon code "facebook"
> I am planning on at least 8, and then a few more if I figure out how I want to do a drain/fill port.
> What do you guys think about the new swiftech fittings?
> http://www.swiftech.com/lok-seal.aspx


I been hearing about those after a member on here told me about it. Planning to pick those up when I get my CPU+Mobo upgrade in a couple weeks.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manavapor*
> 
> Jab-tech, coupon code "facebook"
> I am planning on at least 8, and then a few more if I figure out how I want to do a drain/fill port.
> What do you guys think about the new swiftech fittings?
> http://www.swiftech.com/lok-seal.aspx


They look pretty solid, but they're at that limbo price where you might as well just spend less and grab the danger den compressions or spend a little more and get the bitspower.


----------



## SinX7

Since I'll be getting wet soon, I was wondering if I should do a fill/drain port. If yes, I would like to know how! Since will be my first time touching WCing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> What site did you use and what coupon is that!


Jab-tech 5% off code: facebook
FrozenCpu.com 5% off code: pcapex
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manavapor*
> 
> I am planning on at least 8, and then a few more if I figure out how I want to do a drain/fill port.
> What do you guys think about the new swiftech fittings?
> http://www.swiftech.com/lok-seal.aspx


They look solid but as Stallion mentioned, they are close in price to other competitors. If you are looking for a decent set of compression fittings at a budget price, try Phobya or XSPC. If you can spend a bit more, there's lots of options available.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> They look pretty solid, but they're at that limbo price where you might as well just spend less and grab the danger den compressions or spend a little more and get the bitspower.


Monsoons are very popular right now too. Very tempting


----------



## bundymania




----------



## TheJesus

I really like the legitimately full cover blocks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Since I'll be getting wet soon, I was wondering if I should do a fill/drain port. If yes, I would like to know how! Since will be my first time touching WCing.


You could do something like I have...



T block or Q connection. Connected at the outlet of your pump...



If you look by the eydrops in the pic you can make out a Compression fitting with a female/female barrel fitting. That's capped by a plug. That's all you need for a drain. Just make sure it's as snug as you can get it by hand. Oring should seal up nicely.









For a fillport you'll need an access hole to fit the tubing through...



Looking to the barb on the Reservoir that's my fillport tube. The barbs are temporary until I replace them with matching EK compression fittings to the 8 others I already have in my setup. I've got a Koolance Fillport Fitting that I'm gonna track down some washers that it fits and then use those to hold it in place in the stock opening in my 932. I figure I can get a pair of 16mm ID washers that should be large enough to fit over the opening to sandwich the sheetmetal and lock it up tight at my local NAPA supply store. You'd think Home Depot, Lowe's or OSH would have them but none that I have found. Anyway there you go. A Fillport and a Drain and both were relatively painless to install.









*tubing going to HDD rack is drainport. Slidingthe empty tray out I can access the drain at any time







*

~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Ceadder, your build is great dude, I really like the color theme.

Is your computer running now?


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## KaRLiToS

SR-2? If Yes = WOW


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> SR-2? If Yes = WOW


MOAR POWAH!!!










Wait till you see the 3 480 AMS rads coming in a couple of weeks....


----------



## KaRLiToS

What graphic Card will you have?


----------



## phillyd

how do you guys suggest doing a fillport/drain with this res:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31134:4d24c34cf81d46f11db5078525d0dc9a
my setup:


my psu cover will cover the bottom, the res will sit on it under my gpu or near my ssd's, my pump will be under the psu cover where the bottom fan is.

i need to find cheap black or blue compressions too. the xspc ones are uuugly


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> What graphic Card will you have?


3x 7950.

Means i dont have to dual psu.


----------



## phillyd

how does this cart + one of bmaverick's pumps look?

decided on the white monsoon's
ill mount the pump under my psu cover where my bottom fan is now, and my res somewhere near, maybe where my ssd's are now. idk atm.


also recommendations on a thick 120 rad and a 7970 water block for the near future?
i also need to set up a fillport and a drain. any ideas?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Ceadder, your build is great dude, I really like the color theme.
> 
> Is your computer running now?


Yup. I'm on it right now.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how does this cart + one of bmaverick's pumps look?
> 
> decided on the white monsoon's
> ill mount the pump under my psu cover where my bottom fan is now, and my res somewhere near, maybe where my ssd's are now. idk atm.
> 
> 
> also recommendations on a thick 120 rad and a 7970 water block for the near future?
> i also need to set up a fillport and a drain. any ideas?


Black Ice SR1 120 low FPI plenty of surface area to aid in cooling and you can put any fan on it with reasonably solid performance. You'd still have to do a fan controller if you put a high speed fan on it but this is the 120 I would recommend.









That new Swiftech Full Coverage block kit would be pretty cool too if you intend on going with 7970. The EK block is pretty nice as well. Either one should fit your build nicely.

Thought you were gonna go with Black fittings? White would be very cool too though.









Your choice is a good one for pump/res combo. Plenty of guys have done that with bmavs pumps.









Scroll up for drain/fillport idea... your fillport can come in through one of the tube grommets in the back of your case. Thru the top would be better but you could attach a long piece of tubing that goes to the top on the exterior of your case. Maybe use a Koolance fillport with a couple angle fittings to come through it instead of straight tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

New Akasa controller came in and sadly it does the same thing. I went to ppcs.com and they have it flagged as out of stock. Well, I'm going to return both to them and have them exchange it for a different one.

Any one know how hot the Sunbeamtech gets? Its got chunky heatsinks on the back and I don't want another heat generator like the Scythe. I'm also interested in the Nzxt mix but I have to see how all the fans sound ~40-50% voltage (using the Scythe).


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Finally got my Alphacool Repack dual bay res, Alphacool D5, and UV lighting today. So it looks like I'll be able to fiddle around with my rig tonight or this weekend... The res is a lot deeper than I had expected, but seeing it up close and personal, I have to say that this is probably one of the more finely made pieces I've bought for my rig, outside of my 590 HC. The attention to detail is incredible on this res, from the almost seemless joining of the acrylic walls, the polished copper fittings inside, to the machine milling of the coolant canals, down to the logo on the front. I'm thoroughly impressed. As for the pump fitment, it too went in with without any issues. It's very well secured by the 8 allen screws (2 per corner) to hold it in place (allen wrench & bay screws included).



















The UV lighting was a little difficult to install, and fit snuggly inside the duct just above the res. Unfortunately because it's such a snug fit inside, the bulb will definitely break upon trying to remove it. But I'll deal with it when that time comes. Otherwise, once it was in, both edges of the res and the UV tube ends blended perfectly.










Only two more things to buy, and I can finally stick a fork in this mid tower rig.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New Akasa controller came in and sadly it does the same thing. I went to ppcs.com and they have it flagged as out of stock. Well, I'm going to return both to them and have them exchange it for a different one.
> 
> Any one know how hot the Sunbeamtech gets? Its got chunky heatsinks on the back and I don't want another heat generator like the Scythe. I'm also interested in the Nzxt mix but I have to see how all the fans sound ~40-50% voltage (using the Scythe).


I keep tryin ta get you on the RheoSmart werm. I've got pump on 1st channel, 2nd is reserved for new 2nd pump and 3rd is fan splitter. Neither 1st nor 3rd Channel are at all hot. I just stuck my hand in there and touched the Heatsinks. Not a single hot one in the bunch. But at 30w per channel I don't expect there to be. I know the mesh front can be a bit of a putoff but you can do like I did and just disguise it with a good cover or you could 180 it to be internally controlled and put a cover in the front. Maybe even temperature grill and put a couple digital readout displays in that. With 20 fans you really should go with a 6 channel RheoSmart. You don't even have to have their logo piece on the controller since it's applied once you have it installed.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Finally got my Alphacool Repack dual bay res, Alphacool D5, and UV lighting today. So it looks like I'll be able to fiddle around with my rig tonight or this weekend... The res is a lot deeper than I had expected, but seeing it up close and personal, I have to say that this is probably one of the more finely made pieces I've bought for my rig, outside of my 590 HC. The attention to detail is incredible on this res, from the almost seemless joining of the acrylic walls, the polished copper fittings inside, to the machine milling of the coolant canals, down to the logo on the front. I'm thoroughly impressed. As for the pump fitment, it too went in with without any issues. It's very well secured by the 8 allen screws (2 per corner) to hold it in place (allen wrench & bay screws included).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The UV lighting was a little difficult to install, and fit snuggly inside the duct just above the res. Unfortunately because it's such a snug fit inside, the bulb will definitely break upon trying to remove it. But I'll deal with it when that time comes. Otherwise, once it was in, both edges of the res and the UV tube ends blended perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only two more things to buy, and I can finally stick a fork in this mid tower rig.


That certainly is a sturdy looking piece of hardware ProfeZZor. Kudos to you.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I keep tryin ta get you on the RheoSmart werm. I've got pump on 1st channel, 2nd is reserved for new 2nd pump and 3rd is fan splitter. Neither 1st nor 3rd Channel are at all hot. I just stuck my hand in there and touched the Heatsinks. Not a single hot one in the bunch. But at 30w per channel I don't expect there to be. I know the mesh front can be a bit of a putoff but you can do like I did and just disguise it with a good cover or you could 180 it to be internally controlled and put a cover in the front. Maybe even temperature grill and put a couple digital readout displays in that. With 20 fans you really should go with a 6 channel RheoSmart. You don't even have to have their logo piece on the controller since it's applied once you have it installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I dropped my fans to 50% of the Scythe knob and its pretty decent. I'm sure at 40% it will be a tad bit quiet. Now I'm interested in the Mix since it has six channels with 50w and its all black cables which saves me the trouble of sleeving the psu. Leaning on the NZXT but I'm going to research it since I've heard some stories of these new Nzxt controllers going bad.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I keep tryin ta get you on the RheoSmart werm. I've got pump on 1st channel, 2nd is reserved for new 2nd pump and 3rd is fan splitter. Neither 1st nor 3rd Channel are at all hot. I just stuck my hand in there and touched the Heatsinks. Not a single hot one in the bunch. But at 30w per channel I don't expect there to be. I know the mesh front can be a bit of a putoff but you can do like I did and just disguise it with a good cover or you could 180 it to be internally controlled and put a cover in the front. Maybe even temperature grill and put a couple digital readout displays in that. With 20 fans you really should go with a 6 channel RheoSmart. You don't even have to have their logo piece on the controller since it's applied once you have it installed.


Good advice








I am using the 3 channel RheoSmart for my pump and rad fans. The mesh front does not match my 800D so mounted it internally. I also love the PWM button... I'm not using PWM so I can use the buttons as on/off switches, comes in handy when bleeding the system. Much easier than turning the knob back and forth.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I dropped my fans to 50% of the Scythe knob and its pretty decent. I'm sure at 40% it will be a tad bit quiet. Now I'm interested in the Mix since it has six channels with 50w and its all black cables which saves me the trouble of sleeving the psu. Leaning on the NZXT but I'm going to research it since I've heard some stories of these new Nzxt controllers going bad.


Stop resisting the Mix







Just accept it









The only ones I've seen go bad are the LX/touchscreen ones. The rest seem fine.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Good advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using the 3 channel RheoSmart for my pump and rad fans. The mesh front does not match my 800D so mounted it internally. I also love the PWM button... I'm not using PWM so I can use the buttons as on/off switches, comes in handy when bleeding the system. Much easier than turning the knob back and forth.


I really don't need to put my pump on it anymore. The amount of fans I have ave at low speed will drown out the noise of the pump. I do have a kill switch which helps to stop the pump and purge out air when bleeding


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Stop resisting the Mix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just accept it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only ones I've seen go bad are the LX/touchscreen ones. The rest seem fine.










ty good sir. I'm waiting on ppcs.com to respond. I'm sure it won't be until monday but my scythe does ok in the open for now. I'm 90% convinced on the Mix







. I'm waiting on a pm from MBO for his take and experience so far.


----------



## axipher

Here's one of the later pictures of my rig, looking for any recommendations on loop order to try and clean it up. In the ODD bay is a MCP350 with a pump top and a MicroRes mounted directly on top of it with a 1" piece of tubing.

I have plans to add a GPU to the loop eventually.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That certainly is a sturdy looking piece of hardware ProfeZZor. Kudos to you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I want to say that it's about the same weight of a water blocked 590 with the pump, give or take, but you're right, it definitely is a solid piece worth every penny.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MOAR POWAH!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait till you see the 3 480 AMS rads coming in a couple of weeks....


Those rads are amazing, can't wait to see more of this build!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Finally got my Alphacool Repack dual bay res, Alphacool D5, and UV lighting today. So it looks like I'll be able to fiddle around with my rig tonight or this weekend... The res is a lot deeper than I had expected, but seeing it up close and personal, I have to say that this is probably one of the more finely made pieces I've bought for my rig, outside of my 590 HC. The attention to detail is incredible on this res, from the almost seemless joining of the acrylic walls, the polished copper fittings inside, to the machine milling of the coolant canals, down to the logo on the front. I'm thoroughly impressed. As for the pump fitment, it too went in with without any issues. It's very well secured by the 8 allen screws (2 per corner) to hold it in place (allen wrench & bay screws included).
> []
> []http://w.net/image/id/2211248[/img UV lighting was a little difficult to install, and fit snuggly inside the duct just above the res. Unfortunately because it's such a snug fit inside, the bulb will definitely break upon trying to remove it. But I'll deal with it when that time comes. Otherwise, once it was in, both edges of the res and the UV tube ends blended perfectly.
> []
> Only two more things to buy, and I can finally stick a fork in this mid tower rig.


Loving that res, wish that'd been out last year when I bought my Koolance, definitely would've picked that up instead!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> :thumb ty good sir. I'm waiting on ppcs.com to respond. I'm sure it won't be until monday but my scythe does ok in the open for now. I'm 90% convinced on the Mix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm waiting on a pm from MBO for his take and experience so far.


I've talked to him quite a bit, I can guarantee he will say he loves it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Here's one of the later pictures of my rig, looking for any recommendations on loop order to try and clean it up. In the ODD bay is a MCP350 with a pump top and a MicroRes mounted directly on top of it with a 1" piece of tubing.
> 
> I have plans to add a GPU to the loop eventually.


I think your routing is fine seeing as you're running 3 Radiators for just the CPU. Tonna overkill but your set for GPU and Mainboard blocks when you make the plunge on em.









I think what you need though is a new Case that will fit everything you have inside it.









~Ceadder


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Here's one of the later pictures of my rig, looking for any recommendations on loop order to try and clean it up. In the ODD bay is a MCP350 with a pump top and a MicroRes mounted directly on top of it with a 1" piece of tubing.
> 
> I have plans to add a GPU to the loop eventually.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think your routing is fine seeing as you're running 3 Radiators for just the CPU. Tonna overkill but your set for GPU and Mainboard blocks when you make the plunge on em.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think what you need though is a new Case that will fit everything you have inside it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

If I can find another place for the pump and reservoir, then I can put the HDD's in the ODD bay and I will be completely amazed with myself for fitting so much in this case.

I have a feeling I will need to invest in angled fittings for that to happen though and maybe a Pump Top with a built in reservoir.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Those rads are amazing, can't wait to see more of this build!
> Loving that res, wish that'd been out last year when I bought my Koolance, definitely would've picked that up instead!


The copper logo below could've used a little cleaning detail where the excess glue seeped through when they pressed it into the depression (logo sits flush), but all in all it looks great.


----------



## Aventadoor

Guys, what you think off Alphacool NexXxos Full Copper UT60 Radiator?
That or GTX with AP-15?
The UT60 is alot cheaper so It looks like Ive go with them


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Here's one of the later pictures of my rig, looking for any recommendations on loop order to try and clean it up. In the ODD bay is a MCP350 with a pump top and a MicroRes mounted directly on top of it with a 1" piece of tubing.
> I have plans to add a GPU to the loop eventually.


Your build needs more love, looks like everything is sagging around. Look at your Ram coolers.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Here's one of the later pictures of my rig, looking for any recommendations on loop order to try and clean it up. In the ODD bay is a MCP350 with a pump top and a MicroRes mounted directly on top of it with a 1" piece of tubing.
> I have plans to add a GPU to the loop eventually.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your build needs more love, looks like everything is sagging around. Look at your Ram coolers.
Click to expand...

All my love is going to my Design Core 1000 because I want it to be perfect for the OCN LAN









I'm actually surprised that I took the time to format all those hard drives to ext4 today. Teamviewer helps so much.


----------



## wermad

Got a reply from ppcs.com, they were in touch with Akasa and they confirmed Akasa has a bad batch of controllers on their hands. Something I suspected. Getting store credit and I'm picking up the NZXT Mix. I don't have a problem with the Sunbeamtech's performance, I just don't like the mesh. Here's hoping the Mix is a winner in my ubild


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Finally got my Alphacool Repack dual bay res, Alphacool D5, and UV lighting today.


Congrats on your purchases.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*


a good Looking!
This look like Koolance RP-452X2 Dual Bay *Rev 1.3*, not Rev 2.. just sayin..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got a reply from ppcs.com, they were in touch with Akasa and they confirmed Akasa has a bad batch of controllers on their hands. Something I suspected. Getting store credit and I'm picking up the NZXT Mix. I don't have a problem with the Sunbeamtech's performance, I just don't like the mesh. Here's hoping the Mix is a winner in my ubild


Don't whine to me when you're going back a 4th time. Not that I want you to have to. But should you have to don't whine to me bout it.







lol

You know til you said something I never really paid much attention to the Heatsinks in my controller. I put my finger on them and damn they're thick. They definitely are not cheap thought out at the last minute kind of heatsinks. These are thick wing em at your little brother heatsinks. The kind that will leave a hell of a welt when it hits bare skin. I love it.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't whine to me when you're going back a 4th time. Not that I want you to have to. But should you have to don't whine to me bout it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> You know til you said something I never really paid much attention to the Heatsinks in my controller. I put my finger on them and damn they're thick. They definitely are not cheap thought out at the last minute kind of heatsinks. These are thick wing em at your little brother heatsinks. The kind that will leave a hell of a welt when it hits bare skin. I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The Scythe has some flimsy heatsinks. Looks like a they didn't really put much emphasis on that. But I'm hesitant with anything with heatsinks. I do understand quite well what you mentioned a bout the channels getting hotter under low voltage to dispel the unused current as heat. Makes total sense mate. That's why I'm a bit hesitant on the Sunbeamtech with its huge heatsinks. The NZXT doesn't go that low so I'm not too worried about heat generating and MyBadOmen has given it his approval, so I'm good







I also like the led color options.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Here's one of the later pictures of my rig, looking for any recommendations on loop order to try and clean it up. In the ODD bay is a MCP350 with a pump top and a MicroRes mounted directly on top of it with a 1" piece of tubing.
> I have plans to add a GPU to the loop eventually.


I would say to turn your bottom 240 radiator around. This way, when you do have your GPU watercooled, the tubing can flow from your 120 mm radiator to the GPU, and then from the GPU head straight down into the 240 mm radiator.


----------



## GAMERIG

NOW, WaterCooler is a COME BACK again!!


here is nothing fancy and high maintenance.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> NOW, WaterCooler is a COME BACK again!!
> 
> 
> here is nothing fancy and high maintenance.


Very nice.









**Update*
* I fixed the fan that refused to run and it did nothing for my temps. So with 3 Yate Loon Medium Speed Silents the best I can expect from my loop at Full Load is ~37c operating temp. But as I've said previously Medium speed fans aren't good enough to use fulltime on a high FPI radiator. 30FPI is pretty dang high. So it's a good thing I do have my fan controller to dial back the fans enough to make them livable in the dB range.









NB temp did drop a degree however.









~Ceadder


----------



## soul801

Can you add me to the list?

This is my first water cooled build.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Here's one of the later pictures of my rig, looking for any recommendations on loop order to try and clean it up. In the ODD bay is a MCP350 with a pump top and a MicroRes mounted directly on top of it with a 1" piece of tubing.
> I have plans to add a GPU to the loop eventually.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would say to turn your bottom 240 radiator around. This way, when you do have your GPU watercooled, the tubing can flow from your 120 mm radiator to the GPU, and then from the GPU head straight down into the 240 mm radiator.
Click to expand...

Sadly I tried that but the modular connectors stick out too far. I would need to have at least 40 mm worth of shroud space added below the RAD for it to clear the PSU connectors


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Sadly I tried that but the modular connectors stick out too far. I would need to have at least 40 mm worth of shroud space added below the RAD for it to clear the PSU connectors


Try to setup your rear 120 like my 690 build: case>rad (ports facing up)>fan. And use some angled fittings/extension to rout the plumbing. This will let you move up the gpu, then you can turn that RX240 (looks familiar







) around and plumbed from the other side.


----------



## Oberon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Can you add me to the list?
> This is my first water cooled build.


Beautiful rig you got there, I'm also working on my first build too. Do you mind snapping a few more shots of your fillport?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Sadly I tried that but the modular connectors stick out too far. I would need to have at least 40 mm worth of shroud space added below the RAD for it to clear the PSU connectors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try to setup your rear 120 like my 690 build: case>rad (ports facing up)>fan. And use some angled fittings/extension to rout the plumbing. This will let you move up the gpu, then you can turn that RX240 (looks familiar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) around and plumbed from the other side.
Click to expand...

I'm trying to figure out what you mean for the rear 120. I can't mount the RAD to the case because the edges of the RAD won't fit within the side lip that the side panel rests against so I need the fan between the case and RAD for spacing.

As for the GPU, it's temporary, it can fit in the top PCIe x16 slot no problem. the very top expansion slot of my board is actually a PXIe x1.

And the RX240's side with the G1/4 holes extends too close to the PSU and would prevent my from plugging cables in to it. The only way to remedy this would be raising the RAD up about 40 mm to that the end area sits over top of the connectors of the PSU.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what you mean for the rear 120. I can't mount the RAD to the case because the edges of the RAD won't fit within the side lip that the side panel rests against so I need the fan between the case and RAD for spacing.
> As for the GPU, it's temporary, it can fit in the top PCIe x16 slot no problem. the very top expansion slot of my board is actually a PXIe x1.
> And the RX240's side with the G1/4 holes extends too close to the PSU and would prevent my from plugging cables in to it. The only way to remedy this would be raising the RAD up about 40 mm to that the end area sits over top of the connectors of the PSU.


I have to dig through the 690 club to find the pics. Give me a few moments...


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what you mean for the rear 120. I can't mount the RAD to the case because the edges of the RAD won't fit within the side lip that the side panel rests against so I need the fan between the case and RAD for spacing.
> As for the GPU, it's temporary, it can fit in the top PCIe x16 slot no problem. the very top expansion slot of my board is actually a PXIe x1.
> And the RX240's side with the G1/4 holes extends too close to the PSU and would prevent my from plugging cables in to it. The only way to remedy this would be raising the RAD up about 40 mm to that the end area sits over top of the connectors of the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to dig through the 690 club to find the pics. Give me a few moments...
Click to expand...

Thanks man


----------



## jamaican voodoo

i have updated my rig since last post just wanna share it with you guys..critics are welcome


----------



## toaad

Interesting how you connected the CPU block to GPU block.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toaad*
> 
> Interesting how you connected the CPU block to GPU block.


yea i wanted to do something defiantly other using tubing to connect the two.


----------



## toaad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *toaad*
> 
> Interesting how you connected the CPU block to GPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> yea i wanted to do something defiantly other using tubing to connect the two.
Click to expand...

At first glance I thought it was going to the MB block. haha


----------



## motokill36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> The copper logo below could've used a little cleaning detail where the excess glue seeped through when they pressed it into the depression (logo sits flush), but all in all it looks great.


I Want ONE lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks man


Quote:


>


I had fun and she ended up going to a good home


----------



## bundymania

Do you guys like those new Koolance Blocks ? A guy in forumdeluxx.de wrote, that the AMD version looks like a bone for a dog


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Do you guys like those new Koolance Blocks ? A guy in forumdeluxx.de wrote, that the AMD version looks like a bone for a dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They are nice but I think they are a little bit plain.


----------



## Willhemmens

Here's a couple of images of the new Supreme HF I was sent today from EK, I had some minor plating issues. The images totaled 92mb so they're fairly re-sized.









Here's the box, same box my last one came in.


















Here's the new mounting kit, seemed to work nice, it's also nice to see 2011 mounts included.









The top of the block, seems good.









Reflections are good too.









The base.









I whacked a grid image on my screen, you can see the base isn't flat. Looks like a nice bow.









Finger reflections.









Here's the important part, the fins look thinner than my last one.









The top.









The top with Plate #6. No others included though.









Another shot of the base.









Relfections, EK actually included the bottle of Blue Dye, I thought this was quite good of them.









Fitted with my 1/2" comps, thinking about some Monsoon fittings.









I put togeather the mounting hardware to see what i looked like.









Overall, I'm happy with the replacement, plating all seems good.


----------



## SinX7

Man looking at all this pictures make me want to build my loop already! I can't wait till my order comes in!







Gonna be my first time going underwater


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Here's a couple of images of the new Supreme HF I was sent today from EK, I had some minor plating issues. The images totaled 92mb so they're fairly re-sized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box, same box my last one came in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the new mounting kit, seemed to work nice, it's also nice to see 2011 mounts included.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the block, seems good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reflections are good too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I whacked a grid image on my screen, you can see the base isn't flat. Looks like a nice bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finger reflections.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the important part, the fins look thinner than my last one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top with Plate #6. No others included though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another shot of the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Relfections, EK actually included the bottle of Blue Dye, I thought this was quite good of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitted with my 1/2" comps, thinking about some Monsoon fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put togeather the mounting hardware to see what i looked like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, I'm happy with the replacement, plating all seems good.


Now if your build isn't going to be built yet, stick that sucker in a bag. I hadda clean mine cause I was stupid and left it outside the bag. The printed portion of the protective paper imprinted on the block due to oxidation. It's all good now but man I kinda wish I had at least stuck the whole thing in a ziploc.









~Ceadder


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Now if your build isn't going to be built yet, stick that sucker in a bag. I hadda clean mine cause I was stupid and left it outside the bag. The printed portion of the protective paper imprinted on the block due to oxidation. It's all good now but man I kinda wish I had at least stuck the whole thing in a ziploc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I never suffered any oxidization issues with my previous block, if the base of yours Copper?

Here's what my old Supreme HF looked like: 

Only some plating loss on the inlet port but I'm not using the loop currently so I didn't mind it being away for a while.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Man looking at all this pictures make me want to build my loop already! I can't wait till my order comes in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna be my first time going underwater


remember its not like swimming







remember to breath

man i need sleep


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> I never suffered any oxidization issues with my previous block, if the base of yours Copper?
> Here's what my old Supreme HF looked like:
> Only some plating loss on the inlet port but I'm not using the loop currently so I didn't mind it being away for a while.


all EK's plating its really steering me away from them this is happening lots

u don't see koolance with thease sort of issues


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> I never suffered any oxidization issues with my previous block, if the base of yours Copper?
> Here's what my old Supreme HF looked like:
> Only some plating loss on the inlet port but I'm not using the loop currently so I didn't mind it being away for a while.


That's why i will only get full copper blocks, no nickel ever


----------



## skitzab1

yer im thinking the same and if i want to do a nickel build il just use Koolance or heatkiller do heatkiller do nickel ??

that ? made me feal stupid but more 2 lazy to go look right now


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> That's why i will only get full copper blocks, no nickel ever


Pure Copper is a good way to go, personally I completely love the colour of non-oxidized Copper but once it's got a couple finger prints on and sat in a PC for a while it gets dull and ugly, which is the point in plating.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> yer im thinking the same and if i want to do a nickel build il just use Koolance or heatkiller do heatkiller do nickel ??
> 
> that ? made me feal stupid but more 2 lazy to go look right now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> all EK's plating its really steering me away from them this is happening lots
> 
> u don't see koolance with thease sort of issues


Check this thread 4 hours and the plating went and the warranty doesn't even cover using water. And there's many threads like it too.

My plating went over the space of two years with the rig often running 24/7 and really, very little went.

As far as I can see EK has the plating issues sorted and for blocks with issues, the warranty is extended by an extra two years on top of the first two years.


----------



## skitzab1

well ant i glad that i got lazy this time and just got the blue koolance coolant and it ixplains the oily residue the koolance coolant has its to protect ther nickel

ha well ther u go block was all good till he cleaned the oily film out of the block

and i must say although it cost me $80 plus postage to fill my loops

i guess it wasn't such a bad idea now



i have herd this 2
v
As far as I can see EK has the plating issues sorted and for blocks with issues, the warranty is extended by an extra two years on top of the first two years.
Edited by Willhemmens - Today at 6:40 am
note the coolant cost me $80 as i needed 4 bottles and thay are only 700ml bottles


----------



## Willhemmens

EK provided a 100ml bottle of UV Water additive for free and that will make a Liter of coolant. Most likely when I go to fill my loop I'll be using Mayhems X1 coolant though and that's £12 and makes 2L.


----------



## LeandroJVarini

my contribution!

Next week post more so get the new parts


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> They are nice but I think they are a little bit plain.


I like 'em, they're not too flashy... Can't wait to see how it performs!


----------



## SortOfGrim

I guess I can post a couple of pix here, although the build isn't completed yet.


Loop: reservoir->pump->240rad->cpu->240rad->gpu->120rad->reservoir


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Now if your build isn't going to be built yet, stick that sucker in a bag. I hadda clean mine cause I was stupid and left it outside the bag. The printed portion of the protective paper imprinted on the block due to oxidation. It's all good now but man I kinda wish I had at least stuck the whole thing in a ziploc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never suffered any oxidization issues with my previous block, if the base of yours Copper?
> 
> Here's what my old Supreme HF looked like:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only some plating loss on the inlet port but I'm not using the loop currently so I didn't mind it being away for a while.
Click to expand...

Yeah mine is copper. With the AMD plate in place nobody will ever see most of the block if at all with the RAM in place.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> That's why i will only get full copper blocks, no nickel ever
> 
> 
> 
> Pure Copper is a good way to go, personally I completely love the colour of non-oxidized Copper but once it's got a couple finger prints on and sat in a PC for a while it gets dull and ugly, which is the point in plating.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> yer im thinking the same and if i want to do a nickel build il just use Koolance or heatkiller do heatkiller do nickel ??
> 
> that ? made me feal stupid but more 2 lazy to go look right now
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> all EK's plating its really steering me away from them this is happening lots
> 
> u don't see koolance with thease sort of issues
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Check this thread 4 hours and the plating went and the warranty doesn't even cover using water. And there's many threads like it too.
> 
> My plating went over the space of two years with the rig often running 24/7 and really, very little went.
> 
> As far as I can see EK has the plating issues sorted and for blocks with issues, the warranty is extended by an extra two years on top of the first two years.
Click to expand...

I was gonna go Copper anyway but the plating issue kinda helped me make up my mind when I got my Block. Not that it matters much cause I got FC block and that only came/comes in Nickel for the Crosshair IV Formula.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> my contribution!
> 
> Next week post more so get the new parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> I guess I can post a couple of pix here, although the build isn't completed yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build, a lot of tubing for the blocks you have but I like it that way, I like the design of the tubing. Seems like all the tubing is outputting from the same place.

If you want to improve your loop, you can connect 2 Radiators back-to-back, for a neater look. Order as low impact on the overrall temperature

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> my contribution!
> Next week post more so get the new parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, I like the Color combo. I decided to go with the Koolance Mobo block and the HK supreme HF Full Nickel for the CPU. I prefer yours


----------



## ChrisTahoe

Got it all put back together!


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> I guess I can post a couple of pix here, although the build isn't completed yet.
> 
> Loop: reservoir->pump->240rad->cpu->240rad->gpu->120rad->reservoir


Nice looking rig, am liking the colors, I do agree with Karlitos though, less tubing is better, if you ran your loop from 120rad>CPU it would use less tubing and look a little neater. Loop order does not really matter as the water temp will stablize over time, meaning you dont need a rad between each component.


----------



## Ceadderman

@ChrisTahoe... Looks good but that would push my OCD into Overdrive.









vvv From this... vvv
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Starting off with the Classified EK Supreme HF Block and 6 EK Black Nickel .5"/.75" Compression fittings. I've sold my 360 console so I'll be taking those funds and buying my Koolance 360 20fpi Radiator and 4 more fittings as well. That just leaves me Tubing ,Pump and Reservoir to complete a loop.
> 
> But I'm also going to be picking up a Liquid Extacy full cover block for the 5770 as well as their MoBo block for my CIVF. I'm going to be updating soone as I have more pics. For now I just have these ones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sold my H50 this past month to speed up the process of getting into my Loop. Hope you don't hold that against me.


To this...



Well not *too* bad considering I work on a spaghetti budget.









@OP... Hey KBMX soon as I get my system a bit cleaner looking I'd like to get it linked in OP. Thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Nice build, a lot of tubing for the blocks you have but I like it that way, I like the design of the tubing. Seems like all the tubing is outputting from the same place.
> If you want to improve your loop, you can connect 2 Radiators back-to-back, for a neater look. Order as low impact on the overrall temperature
> Wow, I like the Color combo. I decided to go with the Koolance Mobo block and the HK supreme HF Full Nickel for the CPU. I prefer yours


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> I guess I can post a couple of pix here, although the build isn't completed yet.
> 
> 
> Loop: reservoir->pump->240rad->cpu->240rad->gpu->120rad->reservoir


im with u on that Karlitos it looks sweet the way it loos like its all coming from one source tweaking that designee and cleaning it up a little would be like hmmmm it would set it off but if he jouind the rads together he would loos that look use the right fittings and it work like

a koolanc t junction between the 2 rads as input and than a T junkshen as a retern then that should give him better flow and the rads will work together

you could use 2 of thease





ther $15 au ther a drain port

revers for retern

better flow with this setup and also better water full loop rotations


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @OP... Hey KBMX soon as I get my system a bit cleaner looking I'd like to get it linked in OP. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


With all your contributions and helpful advice in this thread I can't believe your not on the list!
@ KBMX









Oops my bad..just woke up (well my dog woke me up,thunder outside and 5am)


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks Ceadderman!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Wow, I like the Color combo. I decided to go with the Koolance Mobo block and the HK supreme HF Full Nickel for the CPU. I prefer yours


Thank KaRLiToS, after I bought, I realized that the vast majority of owners RIVE use the same set of blocks equal his.
I'm waiting for sli brigde connectors to try interconnect the blocks not to be filled with tubing on all sides!


----------



## wermad

Awesome rig LeandroJVarini









I'm tired of all these y-cables in my rig pairing the the fans. Any one used these guys?:





Since my new controller has 50w per channel, I can assign each rad to one channel. I just don't want to deal with too many Y-cables


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome rig LeandroJVarini
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tired of all these y-cables in my rig pairing the the fans. Any one used these guys?:
> 
> 
> Since my new controller has 50w per channel, I can assign each rad to on channel. I just don't want to deal with too many Y-cables


I thought about those, but it wasn't worth the money. I just spliced all my fan wires together


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm tired of all these y-cables in my rig pairing the the fans. Any one used these guys?
> Since my new controller has 50w per channel, I can assign each rad to on channel. I just don't want to deal with too many Y-cables


Wermad can you post a link to where you found these? I was trying to source them locally last week for the same reason but could only find these,










Cheers


----------



## TheJesus

Performance-PCs has them.

EDIT: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_392


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I thought about those, but it wasn't worth the money. I just spliced all my fan wires together


I've done that before and its a pita to put them back on when you sell them









I got a pending order from ppcs.com, so I'm seriously thinking of adding these guys. Phobya has a 6 outlet distribution but there' out of stock.

edit: I just pulled the trigger on one eight and three five distributors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Wermad can you post a link to where you found these? I was trying to source them locally last week for the same reason but could only find these,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


TJ got it for ya









Frozencpu.com has em too but they are a tad bit more expensive. Just search "ModMyToys".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Performance-PCs has them.
> EDIT: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_392


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've done that before and its a pita to put them back on when you sell them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a pending order from ppcs.com, so I'm seriously thinking of adding these guys. Phobya has a 6 outlet distribution but there' out of stock.
> edit: I just pulled the trigger on one eight and three five distributors.
> TJ got it for ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Frozencpu.com has em too but they are a tad bit more expensive. Just search "ModMyToys".


Never parting this build out







Especially not some stupid fans.


----------



## SinX7

I'm soo jelly of you pro WCing people xD I need to learn how to put together the loop before it gets in! I wanna make it look clean









I just need advice/tips on making a Drain and Fill port.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Do you guys like those new Koolance Blocks ? A guy in forumdeluxx.de wrote, that the AMD version looks like a bone for a dog


Here is my sweetie 370SA -


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> I'm soo jelly of you pro WCing people xD I need to learn how to put together the loop before it gets in! I wanna make it look clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just need advice/tips on making a Drain and Fill port.


Just route the tubing as short as possible, don't put rads in between blocks unless its more tubing efficient as the temps will be the same.

As for drain, use a T connector and run one tube off with a plug in it. Fill port is the same idea just goes to a certain place in your case that's easily accessible. I've never done one personally.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> TJ got it for ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Frozencpu.com has em too but they are a tad bit more expensive. Just search "ModMyToys".


Thx Guy's, I'm in Australia so cant use those store's and no luck with modmytoys here in Oz, but knowing what they are called will help. I was searching for 3pin hubs, will try splitters







if not will make my own. thx again


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Never parting this build out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially not some stupid fans.


I also spliced them, I have Coolermaster R4 (SickelFlow) around 20 of them. Why sell them, its less expensive just to throw them in the garbage.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motokill36*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> The copper logo below could've used a little cleaning detail where the excess glue seeped through when they pressed it into the depression (logo sits flush), but all in all it looks great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Want ONE lol
Click to expand...

I waited almost two months to get it. I literally had to check Ppc everyday to see when it was back in stock. Now I'm glad I waited. This thing looks amazing in my Antec 1100. Almost as if it was made specifically for that case. Check out the pics I took in my build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> I'm soo jelly of you pro WCing people xD I need to learn how to put together the loop before it gets in! I wanna make it look clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just need advice/tips on making a Drain and Fill port.


Go back a couple pages I posted pics of both my DP and FPs'.









I'm a firm believer in the K.I.S.S. principle and when you follow it to the letter it can be rather cost effective in the long run. I had planned on doing Koolance QDC for drain and FP but it woulda cost twice the money to have dedicated in place.









I like those Koolance blocks save for oooooone teeny tiny issue... you can't stick with the same block from one platform to another. If I had gotten KL block for my AMD kit, I can't change the plate and then use it on Intel kit.









~Ceadder


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> *Just route the tubing as short as possible, don't put rads in between blocks unless its more tubing efficient as the temps will be the same.*
> As for drain, use a T connector and run one tube off with a plug in it. Fill port is the same idea just goes to a certain place in your case that's easily accessible. I've never done one personally.


Not true. Depends on the how much heat ur components put out as well as the amount of heat each rad can dissipate. Component temps change significantly. On lower tdp systems and loops with less cooling the changes are less exaggerated, mostly ~1C difference at most. If I run all of my rads between my cpu and gpus instead of in the config they're in my cpu gains 5C at load. You also have to weigh the cooling detriment of lost flowrate with longer tubing against the pros of having an extra rad between components. The difference is extremely small in most situations, but when dealing with highly complex loops dealing with large heat dump every factor comes into play. Realistically tho all of that won't really make any difference in the rig's actual performance.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Does anyone know if someone or some company makes an aftermarket harness for the evga 590 HC? I want to keep the cables inside my case to a minimum, so if there was a harness that extends a few more inches, I could tuck them behind the motherboard. I'm thinking something black and sleeved... Any help in the right direction would be appreciated.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think you should make your own. If you have an old PSU laying about you can snip off the length of the cables you need get some ATX pins and attach them to the snipped ends and then get a connector to fit them into(Fem) and hide the difference behind the Mainboard tray. You will need Male pins to make the connection though.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> I'm soo jelly of you pro WCing people xD I need to learn how to put together the loop before it gets in! I wanna make it look clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just need advice/tips on making a Drain and Fill port.


Go with a pre-assembled kit like Rasa, EK, etc.

Keep plumbing as simple as possible. Helps your pump and gets rid of unnecessary tube. There's really no specific order radiators and blocks have to be. One thing that is commonly accepted around here is to keep the pump after the reservoir to avoid running the pump "dry". Plan your loop as best as possible but be prepared to make last minute purchases especially with a full custom loop. Make sure your case is water friendly, unless you don't mind hanging the radiator on the outside or hacking your case to make it water friendly







. Double and triple check your fittings/clamps. Leak test your loop by jump starting you psu *and only* power on the pump. If you have a leak, don't panic, just shutoff the power and dry things. I've had leaks from small to huge and I've had stuff survive. If you have any questions, whether your planning, building, or with issues/leaks, ask here or post a thread in the water section. There's plenty of help so don't be afraid to ask









For a drain line, there are many approaches. A few things to keep in mind imo: use some sort of diversion in your plumbing like a T connector, QDC (quick disconnection), valve, etc; try to plumb the drain near or at the reservoir since its where the majority of the liquid will be sitting; lastly, having your drain at a low point is helpful, use gravity, its free







.

There's no specific path to water cooling. Just like building a computer, there are many paths you can take though just keep in mind some of the fundamentals, general ideas, and guidelines to help your through the process. Feel free to pm if you need any further help.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Not true. Depends on the how much heat ur components put out as well as the amount of heat each rad can dissipate. Component temps change significantly. On lower tdp systems and loops with less cooling the changes are less exaggerated, mostly ~1C difference at most. If I run all of my rads between my cpu and gpus instead of in the config they're in my cpu gains 5C at load. You also have to weigh the cooling detriment of lost flowrate with longer tubing against the pros of having an extra rad between components. The difference is extremely small in most situations, but when dealing with highly complex loops dealing with large heat dump every factor comes into play. Realistically tho all of that won't really make any difference in the rig's actual performance.


And if you have to ask about basic details like that your loop is most likely not going to be complex.

I have done personal tests with a 120 before and after a CPU, then with both 120s after, and both 120s before. The temp change was 1C when I did both before, the others were identical in idle and load. Its a trivial matter. If you're going to try and achieve a 5C delta loop or something, sure you should be concerned with rad order, but otherwise, not worth the concern in my opinion.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> And if you have to ask about basic details like that your loop is most likely not going to be complex.
> I have done personal tests with a 120 before and after a CPU, then with both 120s after, and both 120s before. The temp change was 1C when I did both before, the others were identical in idle and load. Its a trivial matter. If you're going to try and achieve a 5C delta loop or something, sure you should be concerned with rad order, but otherwise, not worth the concern in my opinion.


Both good points, I do find it ironic that if I bought an airconditioner I would be able to lower my temps at a much cheaper cost than all my w/c experiments (am currently building a custom case for 2 x 480 rads)....but that wouldnt be as much fun.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Both good points, I do find it ironic that if I bought an airconditioner I would be able to lower my temps at a much cheaper cost than all my w/c experiments (am currently building a custom case for 2 x 480 rads)....but that wouldnt be as much fun.


Yeah but if its GPUs you are talking about Water Drops temps a good 30C. You would have to have a big AC unit to do that. Also cheap AC units a loud.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> And if you have to ask about basic details like that your loop is most likely not going to be complex.
> I have done personal tests with a 120 before and after a CPU, then with both 120s after, and both 120s before. The temp change was 1C when I did both before, the others were identical in idle and load. Its a trivial matter. If you're going to try and achieve a 5C delta loop or something, sure you should be concerned with rad order, but otherwise, not worth the concern in my opinion.


What you view as a trivial difference does not mean that there isn't a huge difference for some. You claimed that there was no difference when the difference can be huge. Even 1C can hamper high overclocks. I worked with around 9 different loop orders before settling on the one I did since it allowed for the highest across the board overclocks. Even with a 2C delta at tdp and <1C delta when only loading the cpu every little bit counts when actually pushing chips. Just bc someone is just starting out doesn't mean they should be fed misinformation bc they most likely won't notice much, if any difference in their usage. People did that when I was starting out and it took a ton of time and nearly $2800 in wasted watercooling parts on my x58 build because people downplayed "trivial" matters. Many members have a misconception that the temp in a loop actually equalizes throughout. It doesn't. Throw 560 rads between components and the water temps within your loop will look like a rollercoaster. /rant

Sorry, just have seen similar comments too many times that nearly an entire forum believes.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> What you view as a trivial difference does not mean that there isn't a huge difference for some. You claimed that there was no difference when the difference can be huge. Even 1C can hamper high overclocks. I worked with around 9 different loop orders before settling on the one I did since it allowed for the highest across the board overclocks. Even with a 2C delta at tdp and <1C delta when only loading the cpu every little bit counts when actually pushing chips. Just bc someone is just starting out doesn't mean they should be fed misinformation bc they most likely won't notice much, if any difference in their usage. People did that when I was starting out and it took a ton of time and nearly $2800 in wasted watercooling parts on my x58 build because people downplayed "trivial" matters. Many members have a misconception that the temp in a loop actually equalizes throughout. It doesn't. Throw 560 rads between components and the water temps within your loop will look like a rollercoaster. /rant
> Sorry, just have seen similar comments too many times that nearly an entire forum believes.


If I'm pushing chips, I go to phase change or LN2 or DICE. I view water cooling as the medium between air and LN2. Its the less noise, cooler temps, but no hassle and less expensive than phase change choice. In the majority of loops (the case here, as his would not be particularly complex), the difference does not matter. I'm sorry you wasted $2,800. If you're dropping that kind of cash, head over to XtremeSystems, they know more than maybe a handful of people on OCN in cooling. Of course 560 rads will change the water temp, but the actual components won't see a major difference (i.e. >1-2C) to justify it. No reason to convolute the loop if its not necessary.

Most people believe it because most people are not pushing their chips to the extremes. I'm sure some hydrothermal expert could explain why the water temp being higher won't affect the heat transfer capability enough to see a significant issue, but its not important to the majority of users


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> remember its not like swimming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> remember to breath
> man i need sleep


Hahaha I got it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go back a couple pages I posted pics of both my DP and FPs'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a firm believer in the K.I.S.S. principle and when you follow it to the letter it can be rather cost effective in the long run. I had planned on doing Koolance QDC for drain and FP but it woulda cost twice the money to have dedicated in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like those Koolance blocks save for oooooone teeny tiny issue... you can't stick with the same block from one platform to another. If I had gotten KL block for my AMD kit, I can't change the plate and then use it on Intel kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ahh, looks like I miss your pic post! Good thing you told me.
Man I'm going to have to put my loop on hold when its gets in then







I have to order a T connector or something for the drain and fill port!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Go with a pre-assembled kit like Rasa, EK, etc.
> Keep plumbing as simple as possible. Helps your pump and gets rid of unnecessary tube. There's really no specific order radiators and blocks have to be. One thing that is commonly accepted around here is to keep the pump after the reservoir to avoid running the pump "dry". Plan your loop as best as possible but be prepared to make last minute purchases especially with a full custom loop. Make sure your case is water friendly, unless you don't mind hanging the radiator on the outside or hacking your case to make it water friendly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Double and triple check your fittings/clamps. Leak test your loop by jump starting you psu *and only* power on the pump. If you have a leak, don't panic, just shutoff the power and dry things. I've had leaks from small to huge and I've had stuff survive. If you have any questions, whether your planning, building, or with issues/leaks, ask here or post a thread in the water section. There's plenty of help so don't be afraid to ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For a drain line, there are many approaches. A few things to keep in mind imo: use some sort of diversion in your plumbing like a T connector, QDC (quick disconnection), valve, etc; try to plumb the drain near or at the reservoir since its where the majority of the liquid will be sitting; lastly, having your drain at a low point is helpful, use gravity, its free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> There's no specific path to water cooling. Just like building a computer, there are many paths you can take though just keep in mind some of the fundamentals, general ideas, and guidelines to help your through the process. Feel free to pm if you need any further help.


I will keep this in mind and come back to it when I get my loop and after I order the T connector or something.

For the case I ordered the Bitfenix Shinobi XL. and I order a customer CPU loop.

Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> For the case I ordered the Bitfenix Shinobi XL. and I order a customer CPU loop.
> Thanks!


That's a great case. Had I not gotten my DD case, the Shinobi xl would have been sitting on my desk


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's a great case. Had I not gotten my DD case, the Shinobi xl would have been sitting on my desk


I love how simple, sleek and aggressiveness it looks to me. and all those SPACE! Lol. and It was at a good price with free window offer!


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Yeah but if its GPUs you are talking about Water Drops temps a good 30C. You would have to have a big AC unit to do that. Also cheap AC units a loud.


and u end up having to throw 2 shirt 2 jumpers a beany and rug the hell up when u use your air con

try playing that FPS wilst ur shivering lolz


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome rig LeandroJVarini
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tired of all these y-cables in my rig pairing the the fans. Any one used these guys?:
> 
> 
> Since my new controller has 50w per channel, I can assign each rad to one channel. I just don't want to deal with too many Y-cables


These work great, however keep in mind that on the 3-pin version, the "power" plug is flipped and will cause the fans to get 7v rather than 12v. You will need to do a custom end on that port to flip the yellow and black wires.

[edit] Actually, looks like they fixed that problem on the black version. The non-colored PCB they used to have, had the "power" port the opposite direction of the other headers, causing the voltage drop.


----------



## superericla

Got 3 of the 4 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans I ordered today. Using 3 GT fans in place of 4 NZXT FN-120RB fans temps have dropped 1-2 degrees. Should get even better once the last fan arrives.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> These work great, however keep in mind that on the 3-pin version, the "power" plug is flipped and will cause the fans to get 7v rather than 12v. You will need to do a custom end on that port to flip the yellow and black wires.
> [edit] Actually, looks like they fixed that problem on the black version. The non-colored PCB they used to have, had the "power" port the opposite direction of the other headers, causing the voltage drop.


I ordered both in molex versions. I'll just make some custom lines since the main power feed will come from the controller (ie molex to fan 3-pin).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Got 3 of the 4 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans I ordered today. Using 3 GT fans in place of 4 NZXT FN-120RB fans temps have dropped 1-2 degrees. Should get even better once the last fan arrives.


That's a lot of money just for 1-2 degree difference in temps. That fourth fan better pick up the slack for the other 3.


















~Ceadder


----------



## Aventadoor

I have a minor problem!
So I bought some molex pins for the MCP655 pump since they where obviously bad mounted on the pump, so they came off when I was gonne change pump top..
However, I dont have the proper tools (those crimping tools) to mount the pins as they should. So I used a grip instead and the pins sit very good on and the pump works!
But an electriction told me that it wont work after a while bcuz it will not seal proporly when you just use a grip. So the wire will get rusty and stop working duo the damp which is in the air!

Is that true? The pump seem to work fine tho so ye


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I have a minor problem!
> So I bought some molex pins for the MCP655 pump since they where obviously bad mounted on the pump, so they came off when I was gonne change pump top..
> However, I dont have the proper tools (those crimping tools) to mount the pins as they should. So I used a grip instead and the pins sit very good on and the pump works!
> But an electriction told me that it wont work after a while bcuz it will not seal proporly when you just use a grip. So the wire will get rusty and stop working duo the damp which is in the air!
> 
> Is that true? The pump seem to work fine tho so ye


So if you crimped it, no moisture would get in there and touch metal?









I'd still advise crimping to make sure your connection doesn't become a disconnection, however you're fine.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I have a minor problem!
> So I bought some molex pins for the MCP655 pump since they where obviously bad mounted on the pump, so they came off when I was gonne change pump top..
> However, I dont have the proper tools (those crimping tools) to mount the pins as they should. So I used a grip instead and the pins sit very good on and the pump works!
> But an electriction told me that it wont work after a while bcuz it will not seal proporly when you just use a grip. So the wire will get rusty and stop working duo the damp which is in the air!
> Is that true? The pump seem to work fine tho so ye


Some kind of electrician









You should be fine if the crimp is holding. No need to worry about "moisture". lol. Anyways, if you need the tool, there like $20.


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some kind of electrician
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be fine if the crimp is holding. No need to worry about "moisture". lol. Anyways, if you need the tool, there like $20.


Ye thats good to hear








Yes I know there is tools for it, but then I have to order from outside my country which aint good.
This guy actually linked me a crimping tool which costed over 2000USD








He said that u need a crimping tool which give enough force and pressure to get 100% seal so it wont rust!


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Here is my sweetie 370SA -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Might have already asked you about this block... But, what kinda temps are you getting with this Koolance block? I really like my Raystorm AMD block, outstanding temps with it.. just curious about the competition out there with this newer block.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some kind of electrician
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be fine if the crimp is holding. No need to worry about "moisture". lol. Anyways, if you need the tool, there like $20.
> 
> 
> 
> Ye thats good to hear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I know there is tools for it, but then I have to order from outside my country which aint good.
> This guy actually linked me a crimping tool which costed over 2000USD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He said that u need a crimping tool which give enough force and pressure to get 100% seal so it wont rust!
Click to expand...

LOL he sounds like an eBay or Craigslist scammer.









If you're that concerned, just put some electrical tape over the whole crimp casing and wire. Bam, no TOXIC AIR FILLED WITH POISON MOISTURE!









On a completely unrelated note:

How do pumps install into dual bay reservoirs? I'm looking at the XSPC Dual Bay to support my D5 (which I already own and use in my current rig). How does this in fact mount into the reservoir? Does it get disassembled and the reservoir serves as a top or something? I'm confused by the whole process


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> What you view as a trivial difference does not mean that there isn't a huge difference for some. You claimed that there was no difference when the difference can be huge. Even 1C can hamper high overclocks. I worked with around 9 different loop orders before settling on the one I did since it allowed for the highest across the board overclocks. Even with a 2C delta at tdp and <1C delta when only loading the cpu every little bit counts when actually pushing chips. Just bc someone is just starting out doesn't mean they should be fed misinformation bc they most likely won't notice much, if any difference in their usage. People did that when I was starting out and it took a ton of time and nearly $2800 in wasted watercooling parts on my x58 build because people downplayed "trivial" matters. Many members have a misconception that the temp in a loop actually equalizes throughout. It doesn't. Throw 560 rads between components and the water temps within your loop will look like a rollercoaster. /rant
> Sorry, just have seen similar comments too many times that nearly an entire forum believes.


I think people confuse 'equalize' with equilibrium in the loop, ie that the temps stabilize, though they're not necessarily the same across the loop. People try to get technical without being consistent and precise with their language and it gets misleading quickly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> LOL he sounds like an eBay or Craigslist scammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're that concerned, just put some electrical tape over the whole crimp casing and wire. Bam, no TOXIC AIR FILLED WITH POISON MOISTURE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a completely unrelated note:
> How do pumps install into dual bay reservoirs? I'm looking at the XSPC Dual Bay to support my D5 (which I already own and use in my current rig). How does this in fact mount into the reservoir? Does it get disassembled and the reservoir serves as a top or something? I'm confused by the whole process


Yes, you disassemble the pump (extremely easy, just unscrew the top) and then the 'can' with the motor and impeller gets mounted to the res which acts as the new top.

Edit: Question for you guys, I'm seeing ~55-60C depending on ambients as load on my 2600k (@4.5), do those temps sound high to you guys? I'm running 17x 120 of rads right now, with dual D5's on high, all fans are on low for silence and my MORA is running passively right now.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Edit: Question for you guys, I'm seeing ~55-60C depending on ambients as load on my 2600k (@4.5), do those temps sound high to you guys? I'm running 17x 120 of rads right now, with dual D5's on high, all fans are on low for silence and my MORA is running passively right now.


You're running 17 radiators? Is there even any flow? I know you're running dual D5's... but if there's 17 radiators there's an absurd amount of restriction isn't it?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> What you view as a trivial difference does not mean that there isn't a huge difference for some. You claimed that there was no difference when the difference can be huge. Even 1C can hamper high overclocks. I worked with around 9 different loop orders before settling on the one I did since it allowed for the highest across the board overclocks. Even with a 2C delta at tdp and <1C delta when only loading the cpu every little bit counts when actually pushing chips. Just bc someone is just starting out doesn't mean they should be fed misinformation bc they most likely won't notice much, if any difference in their usage. People did that when I was starting out and it took a ton of time and nearly $2800 in wasted watercooling parts on my x58 build because people downplayed "trivial" matters. Many members have a misconception that the temp in a loop actually equalizes throughout. It doesn't. Throw 560 rads between components and the water temps within your loop will look like a rollercoaster. /rant
> Sorry, just have seen similar comments too many times that nearly an entire forum believes.
> 
> 
> 
> I think people confuse 'equalize' with equilibrium in the loop, ie that the temps stabilize, though they're not necessarily the same across the loop. People try to get technical without being consistent and precise with their language and it gets misleading quickly.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> LOL he sounds like an eBay or Craigslist scammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're that concerned, just put some electrical tape over the whole crimp casing and wire. Bam, no TOXIC AIR FILLED WITH POISON MOISTURE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a completely unrelated note:
> How do pumps install into dual bay reservoirs? I'm looking at the XSPC Dual Bay to support my D5 (which I already own and use in my current rig). How does this in fact mount into the reservoir? Does it get disassembled and the reservoir serves as a top or something? I'm confused by the whole process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, you disassemble the pump (extremely easy, just unscrew the top) and then the 'can' with the motor and impeller gets mounted to the res which acts as the new top.
> 
> Edit: Question for you guys, I'm seeing ~55-60C depending on ambients as load on my 2600k (@4.5), do those temps sound high to you guys? I'm running 17x 120 of rads right now, with dual D5's on high, all fans are on low for silence and my MORA is running passively right now.
Click to expand...

Seems a tad high even with some fans off and on low. I would consider reseating the block since that's higher than where my 3960x sits with only 4 fans on 40% and that thing is loving the voltage by comparison


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> Might have already asked you about this block... But, what kinda temps are you getting with this Koolance block? I really like my Raystorm AMD block, outstanding temps with it.. just curious about the competition out there with this newer block.


Yeah here is actual temp: 23C Idle, a FULL [HEAVY] LOAD never gets above 34C for 6 hours without OC, I really pleasure it. However I will change the settings up when receive an extra 140/ or 180mm radiator.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I have a minor problem!
> So I bought some molex pins for the MCP655 pump since they where obviously bad mounted on the pump, so they came off when I was gonne change pump top..
> However, I dont have the proper tools (those crimping tools) to mount the pins as they should. So I used a grip instead and the pins sit very good on and the pump works!
> But an electriction told me that it wont work after a while bcuz it will not seal proporly when you just use a grip. So the wire will get rusty and stop working duo the damp which is in the air!
> 
> Is that true? The pump seem to work fine tho so ye










Geezus I hate schiesters'. Tryin ta take advantage of someone who obviously have little to no knowledge, is the most heinous form of low class behavior in the Trades imho.









Instead of makin sh!7 up, he should just been truthful and told you that your connection isn't good and that your pump will more than likely slip it's new pins. OR that your pump could run intermittently. I know more than the average joker and it even happens to me when I punch a hole in the pin and try using it anyway. I figured that out when my fan wouldn't run because the ground slipped. Rust is the least of your worries even if you live in a seafront environment. I'm sure you would notice a little thing like rust. The fact that he linked you to a $1000 tool really pisses me off though.

Do yourself a favor and get one of these...


Spoiler: Sturdy and Cost Effective...







and get yourself a bunch of pins cause the only way to learn how to use this thing consistently is to practice with it.

The next time(if there is one) you talk to that fool, tell him you didn't appreciate his game and then say nothing else whatsoever to that gent. Some people are too stupid and aren't worth much more of your time. This is one.

I'm so cheezed right now. Not in any economy is there an excuse for that.









If you need help finding the tool post your location in your sidebar and I'm sure someone near you would be happy to point you in the right direction.









~Ceadder


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> You're running 17 radiators? Is there even any flow? I know you're running dual D5's... but if there's 17 radiators there's an absurd amount of restriction isn't it?










I'm running a MORA3 (9x120), AC AMS Airplex 360, Swiftech MCR-QP 320, MCR-QP 220 (2x120)...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Seems a tad high even with some fans off and on low. I would consider reseating the block since that's higher than where my 3960x sits with only 4 fans on 40% and that thing is loving the voltage by comparison


That was my thought, I also want to strip the block and see how it looks inside. I have a copper/acetal version so no flaking concerns, but who knows there could be something in there. I'm curious to know what my water temp is, but I suspect that the block isn't working up to potential. It's got super high flow which the Supremes love and cool water, so I'm going to try mounting it again. I'm also thinking about experimenting with milling a few thousandths off the bottom to make it even thinner, I need to do some homework on how thick it is to start with...


----------



## jdk33

Did some weekend upgrades on my sig system. Newegg had a sale on RAM so I got another 16GB of G.Skill RipJaws Z 2133 quad chan to bring my system up to 32GB so I can install some VMs on ramdisk. I also wanted to get some light in my system since it's pretty dark and there isn't much point in having a window if you can't see the guts







so I picked up a pair of these UV Lamptron Inverterless Cathode Spectral Bar from FrozenCPU. I don't really like too much light shining in my eyes and I saw from the reviews that these are pretty dim, so I thought I'd give it a shot since they were $19. I also wanted to take my system apart and check for any loose fittings, blow it out, drain the loop and replace the water, and remove the Asus Xonar STX card since I'm using external USB DACs now.

Delicious quad channel RAM and the bars:










RAM Installed, Xonar removed:










Lights installed, loop drained and refilled:



















And the finished product with the case all buttoned back up:










And a bonus IntelBurnTest to show it's still more go than show









Ambient was 22C. According to coretemp the power draw was a max of 212 watts... The VRMs got pretty hot.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Got 3 of the 4 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans I ordered today. Using 3 GT fans in place of 4 NZXT FN-120RB fans temps have dropped 1-2 degrees. Should get even better once the last fan arrives.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's a lot of money just for 1-2 degree difference in temps. That fourth fan better pick up the slack for the other 3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i loved my typhoons but i went out and tried these coolermaster Excalibur fans



coolermaster Excalibur fans

thay will run as low as 260rpm yes and i got a shock when thay went up to 2200rpm

speed rated for 600rpm-2000rpm

i thing when u have them at 800rpm thay are quieter u don't evan hear a friction noise

and for cleaning just pull on the fan blades and thay just pop right out of the fan cage


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's a lot of money just for 1-2 degree difference in temps. That fourth fan better pick up the slack for the other 3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It does show that 3 GT fans outperform 4 NZXT FN fans. I had the cash to spend so I went for it, worth it to me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's a lot of money just for 1-2 degree difference in temps. That fourth fan better pick up the slack for the other 3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It does show that 3 GT fans outperform 4 NZXT FN fans. I had the cash to spend so I went for it, worth it to me.
Click to expand...

That's fine. Never said they won't outperform an if you have money to waste that's fine too. I just think that it's too much to spend to wring 1-2 more celsius out of your already well performing cooler. Money that you could put toward something else in your loop or set aside for a future CPU upgrade. I like GTs', I just think that if I can get the same or similar performance from another fan on the cheap that it's the best use of my money. Do what makes you happy and be damned my stance, it's your money after all. But for me I don't see enough of a return on the investment to make it worth it.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> i loved my typhoons but i went out and tried these coolermaster Excalibur fans
> 
> coolermaster Excalibur fans
> thay will run as low as 260rpm yes and i got a shock when thay went up to 2200rpm
> speed rated for 600rpm-2000rpm
> i thing when u have them at 800rpm thay are quieter u don't evan hear a friction noise
> and for cleaning just pull on the fan blades and thay just pop right out of the fan cage


My R4s run on like 1-2v which they're super quiet. At 2000rpm, 20 of them are just too loud


----------



## flipmatthew

First water cooling loop







. I love it! I think it is amazing!

Asus P6T Deluxe and a clean wiped Core i7 920, ready to be water cooled.

i7 920, up close. I love that little chip <3.

The CPU Waterblock (XSPC Raystorm)

Raystorm mounted on i7 920.

Raystorm mounted up close.

Removed cooler from HD 7970, stock paste + tape.

HD 7970 GPU Core Finally cleaned of stock TIM (took ~50 Q TIPS)

Ran out of thermal tape, had to make due!

Fresh TIM (Ceramique II) Applied to HD 7970.

EK FC7970 Acetal+EN plated Waterblock back.

Front of EK FC7970.

Waterblock Mounted on the 7970.

Ceramique 2 thermal paste (FYI i applied way less than a drop (a thin ~1mm dash) on each vrm section that is covered with thermal tape. Ek reccomended this for "even higher cooling performance." It seems to work well with the thermal tape combination, so long as you don't over do it.

i7 920 and 7970 mounted.

RX360 and 3x Noctua NF-P12 fans mounted to the top of my HAF 932.

XSPC Dual Bay D5 res w/ an Alphacool VPP655 in it. (Core of the MCP 655, variable speed control.)

Tubing installed! XSPC 7/16in UV Blue + Distilled Water (no dye + Silver Kill Coil) + XSPC 7/16 compression fittings.
P.S. I need a Modular Power supply lol.

UV lights mounted, UV blue tubing effect.







Front of HAF 932. (Do you guys think I should change red fan LEDs to blue? Reply or PM







)





Inside of case

Side view of case

Total cost was $450 dollars.
What do you guys think? Constructive criticism is welcome, but take it easy on me, this was my first time







.

My max temps when cpu + gpu are at max load with high oc are 68c cpu 48c gpu


----------



## DrJns

congrats on your first loop, but why are the tubes so long?


----------



## flipmatthew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> congrats on your first loop, but why are the tubes so long?


Thanks









To answer your question , I over estimated on a few cuts and also employed a better safe than sorry mentality.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not bad but Ceramique is only good for affixing the washers to a block before mounting it imho. MX4, MX2, G751, 7783D... ANYTHING would have been better. That said, welcome to water cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## flipmatthew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not bad but Ceramique is only good for affixing the washers to a block before mounting it imho. MX4, MX2, G751, 7783D... ANYTHING would have been better. That said, welcome to water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes I agree with that. On skinee labs, ceramique 2 was smack in the middle, trailing one degree celsius hotter than mx2 in best contact and the gap widens as it cntact worsens. I wanted to use pk-1 but didn't have any on hand. At least it isn't ceramique original







.


----------



## phillyd

id recut the tubing, its quite distracting, i understand that being the initial cuts, but id recut


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> First water cooling loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love it! I think it is amazing!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> Asus P6T Deluxe and a clean wiped Core i7 920, ready to be water cooled.
> 
> i7 920, up close. I love that little chip <3.
> 
> The CPU Waterblock (XSPC Raystorm)
> 
> Raystorm mounted on i7 920.
> 
> Raystorm mounted up close.
> 
> Removed cooler from HD 7970, stock paste + tape.
> 
> HD 7970 GPU Core Finally cleaned of stock TIM (took ~50 Q TIPS)
> 
> Ran out of thermal tape, had to make due!
> 
> Fresh TIM (Ceramique II) Applied to HD 7970.
> 
> EK FC7970 Acetal+EN plated Waterblock back.
> 
> Front of EK FC7970.
> 
> Waterblock Mounted on the 7970.
> 
> Ceramique 2 thermal paste (FYI i applied way less than a drop (a thin ~1mm dash) on each vrm section that is covered with thermal tape. Ek reccomended this for "even higher cooling performance." It seems to work well with the thermal tape combination, so long as you don't over do it.
> 
> i7 920 and 7970 mounted.
> 
> RX360 and 3x Noctua NF-P12 fans mounted to the top of my HAF 932.
> 
> XSPC Dual Bay D5 res w/ an Alphacool VPP655 in it. (Core of the MCP 655, variable speed control.)
> 
> Tubing installed! XSPC 7/16in UV Blue + Distilled Water (no dye + Silver Kill Coil) + XSPC 7/16 compression fittings.
> P.S. I need a Modular Power supply lol.
> 
> UV lights mounted, UV blue tubing effect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front of HAF 932. (Do you guys think I should change red fan LEDs to blue? Reply or PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Inside of case
> 
> 
> 
> Side view of case
> Total cost was $450 dollars.
> What do you guys think? Constructive criticism is welcome, but take it easy on me, this was my first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> My max temps when cpu + gpu are at max load with high oc are 68c cpu 48c gpu


Welcome to water cooling! I know its exciting to get it all together but it seems like you rushed through that to get it done. I see you got some thermal paste on your fingers and it made its way onto your blocks, easy to clean up though. What happened to your thermal tape for your memory? I think scissors would have helped there. And as others mensioned you have a lot of extra tubing in there, trim it up!


----------



## RushMore1205

i love this thread on the weekends, all the builds are completed and posted, very nice builds guys

you will soon see my new build


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My R4s run on like 1-2v which they're super quiet. At 2000rpm, 20 of them are just too loud


yeap r4 is beast, i would say they are on par with typhoons, thats what is in my sexy red build

the new build im about to complete has the GELID fans, they have an incredible amount of fource but are louder then the r4s

the new build im starting will be 100% typhoon, 20 of them to be exact


----------



## jellis142

Once I get my cables routed, I'll show everybody my temporary setup







And find a decent camera.


----------



## Oberon

pg 1992 - my birth year


----------



## Lost-boi

[quote name="flipmatthew" My max temps when cpu + gpu are at max load with high oc are 68c cpu 48c gpu[/quote]

Ouch. I have a quad core and 2 gpus on a single 360 rad and my CPU only gets to about 45c and the GPUs to about 42c! Everything is also overclocked!


----------



## skitzab1

this WC related but when i fitted this in place i fell over
















BooM!!!!!!!!!

i evan shocked my self


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> First water cooling loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love it! I think it is amazing!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus P6T Deluxe and a clean wiped Core i7 920, ready to be water cooled.
> 
> i7 920, up close. I love that little chip <3.
> 
> The CPU Waterblock (XSPC Raystorm)
> 
> Raystorm mounted on i7 920.
> 
> Raystorm mounted up close.
> 
> Removed cooler from HD 7970, stock paste + tape.
> 
> HD 7970 GPU Core Finally cleaned of stock TIM (took ~50 Q TIPS)
> 
> Ran out of thermal tape, had to make due!
> 
> Fresh TIM (Ceramique II) Applied to HD 7970.
> 
> EK FC7970 Acetal+EN plated Waterblock back.
> 
> Front of EK FC7970.
> 
> Waterblock Mounted on the 7970.
> 
> Ceramique 2 thermal paste (FYI i applied way less than a drop (a thin ~1mm dash) on each vrm section that is covered with thermal tape. Ek reccomended this for "even higher cooling performance." It seems to work well with the thermal tape combination, so long as you don't over do it.
> 
> i7 920 and 7970 mounted.
> 
> RX360 and 3x Noctua NF-P12 fans mounted to the top of my HAF 932.
> 
> XSPC Dual Bay D5 res w/ an Alphacool VPP655 in it. (Core of the MCP 655, variable speed control.)
> 
> Tubing installed! XSPC 7/16in UV Blue + Distilled Water (no dye + Silver Kill Coil) + XSPC 7/16 compression fittings.
> P.S. I need a Modular Power supply lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UV lights mounted, UV blue tubing effect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front of HAF 932. (Do you guys think I should change red fan LEDs to blue? Reply or PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Inside of case
> 
> 
> 
> Side view of case
> Total cost was $450 dollars.
> What do you guys think? Constructive criticism is welcome, but take it easy on me, this was my first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> My max temps when cpu + gpu are at max load with high oc are 68c cpu 48c gpu


I love Ceramique. Once, I tried some Zalman I had purchased locally for the DD gpu blocks (for the vram per DD, then I replaced it with thermal pad, too messy) on my cpu and it was not at its usual temps. Bought a new tube of Ceramique and temps came back down to yummy temps







.

Awesome rig btw









Btw, tim on your vrm(s) are not recommend. Tim on the vram is a good but I find it too messy and expensive. Bought a few sheets of thermal pad on ebay from China and that was much cleaner. Temps are the same.


----------



## flipmatthew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Welcome to water cooling! I know its exciting to get it all together but it seems like you rushed through that to get it done. I see you got some thermal paste on your fingers and it made its way onto your blocks, easy to clean up though. What happened to your thermal tape for your memory? I think scissors would have helped there. And as others mensioned you have a lot of extra tubing in there, trim it up!


I think I am going to try and cut the tubing this weekend. Any sugesstions on how to drain the loop? (It was a pain to fill which is the only reason I'm reluctant to modify it.
Will check this thread after scuool or maybe 5th period. Thanks for the help!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's a lot of money just for 1-2 degree difference in temps. That fourth fan better pick up the slack for the other 3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It does show that 3 GT fans outperform 4 NZXT FN fans. I had the cash to spend so I went for it, worth it to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's fine. Never said they won't outperform an if you have money to waste that's fine too. I just think that it's too much to spend to wring 1-2 more celsius out of your already well performing cooler. Money that you could put toward something else in your loop or set aside for a future CPU upgrade. I like GTs', I just think that if I can get the same or similar performance from another fan on the cheap that it's the best use of my money. Do what makes you happy and be damned my stance, it's your money after all. But for me I don't see enough of a return on the investment to make it worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Running at the same rpm's the GT-'s will move more air and be quieter, for many this means they can run the GT's at a lower rpm and keeping the performance and losing a lot of noise. This is what your are spending the money on, at least this is what I spent my money on. In the future I will not be getting the AP-15's but I will be getting the AP-13's (1150 rpms) as I'm running my 15's at about that rpms anyways and save money on not needing a fan controller.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's a lot of money just for 1-2 degree difference in temps. That fourth fan better pick up the slack for the other 3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It does show that 3 GT fans outperform 4 NZXT FN fans. I had the cash to spend so I went for it, worth it to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's fine. Never said they won't outperform an if you have money to waste that's fine too. I just think that it's too much to spend to wring 1-2 more celsius out of your already well performing cooler. Money that you could put toward something else in your loop or set aside for a future CPU upgrade. I like GTs', I just think that if I can get the same or similar performance from another fan on the cheap that it's the best use of my money. Do what makes you happy and be damned my stance, it's your money after all. But for me I don't see enough of a return on the investment to make it worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Running at the same rpm's the GT-'s will move more air and be quieter, for many this means they can run the GT's at a lower rpm and keeping the performance and losing a lot of noise. This is what your are spending the money on, at least this is what I spent my money on. In the future I will not be getting the AP-15's but I will be getting the AP-13's (1150 rpms) as I'm running my 15's at about that rpms anyways and save money on not needing a fan controller.
Click to expand...

Not doubting this. My system got loads quieter though when I pulled both my 200s' and the 2 LED Yates and replaced them with three D12SM-12C Yates. System is plenty quiet right now. Although it is due to get a bit louder since I've got D12SH-12Ds' on the way. But that's why I have a good Fan Controller so I can dial them back enough to get good temps while limiting the dB. I already had my Controller so works well and my controller was a cheap enough purchase.









~Ceadder


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> I think I am going to try and cut the tubing this weekend. Any sugesstions on how to drain the loop? (It was a pain to fill which is the only reason I'm reluctant to modify it.
> Will check this thread after scuool or maybe 5th period. Thanks for the help!


You can cut one of the tubes hanging out of the case. They are long enough that you could probably used both ends after cutting.


----------



## flipmatthew

They fit in the case closed, but I would like them to be tighter. How should I drain the loop? Also, to the guy that gets awesome temps, what hardware are you using! My processor draws 225+ watts at full load. Should I remount my block? My gpu pulls up to 225 or 250 oced.
Where should I drain the loop without getting water everywhere, and should my temps be lower?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> They fit in the case closed, but I would like them to be tighter. How should I drain the loop? Also, to the guy that gets awesome temps, what hardware are you using! My processor draws 225+ watts at full load. Should I remount my block? My gpu pulls up to 225 or 250 oced.
> Where should I drain the loop without getting water everywhere, and should my temps be lower?


Easiest way to drain the loop, snip the tubing where you want it to now connect. Just make sure you have a large bowl ready


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> They fit in the case closed, but I would like them to be tighter. How should I drain the loop? Also, to the guy that gets awesome temps, what hardware are you using! My processor draws 225+ watts at full load. Should I remount my block? My gpu pulls up to 225 or 250 oced.
> Where should I drain the loop without getting water everywhere, and should my temps be lower?


Welcome to watercooling







and nice Hardware you have there (7970)

*But* there is a lot of ROOM for improvements, I mean a LOT. Cable management is pretty easy to do. Cut the tubing to the correct lenght. But the thing that hurt me the most is the way you put the thermal Tape on your poor 500$ ATI 7970 with a wonderful 140$ EK block.

Like the other guy said, it seems like you were in a rush. I have to agree. You probably did that under a couple of hours.

Good Luck


----------



## bundymania




----------



## derickwm

That XSPC block is actually decent. Usually their block designs aren't that easy on [ _my_ ] eyes.


----------



## DaClownie

How does the XSPC block perform compared to the EK blocks though? I know EK blocks have been the top dog for a long while, and I'm assuming it's the same with 7970 blocks right?


----------



## Angrybutcher

I don't care for the XSPC Razor blocks. I have two in my BOINC rig and their Bulkhead fitting design is a pain in the rear. If you don't tighten both sides equally, one will leak. If you add your fitting and aren't holding the opposite side, it will spin and come loose, causing yet another leak.


----------



## DaClownie

I'll just stick with EK, make life easy on myself. Already familiar with them from my 5850 block I have now.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I'm REALLY liking how this res came out inside my case. Between the design lines on the case and on the res, it's as if they were both made for each other.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm REALLY liking how this res came out inside my case. Between the design lines on the case and on the res, it's as if they were both made for each other.


I have to admit. It gives a pretty good look to your case. I really like that Res and I never saw it before you post it yesterday.

Is it for Dual MCP 655?


----------



## wermad

@ProfeZZor X

I have to confess, that copper plugs looks oh so right. There's something about polished copper....just like finding a new shiny penny, you just gotta get it


----------



## R4MP4G3

Someone wanted me to post up a complete side picture for my build so here it is.


----------



## flipmatthew

Alright guys, i'm home now! I am mainly concerned about my CPU temps, are those normal!? Also I will try to cut the tubes this weekend.
Regarding cable management, I'm not sure where I should start?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I have to admit. It gives a pretty good look to your case. I really like that Res and I never saw it before you post it yesterday.
> Is it for Dual MCP 655?


Yes it is... I may eventually go with dual Laing pumps in this res next year just as a back up in case one fails, but that might seem like overkill for my little mid-sized case. So for now, I'll see how well one D5 performs in my loop.

BTW thanks to everyone for your kind words.


----------



## edito25

Here's my NZXT 810!


----------



## toaad

edito25 that looks frikn sweet!


----------



## Aventadoor

My new case came today!
Unfortunaly my 480 radiators dident! 1 negative thing is that they dont seem to sell solid PSU brackets for those who dont use 4 PSUs, so now I got 3 "holes" in the rear







They should have been included if you ask me
Oh and sorry for showing pictures without water in it


----------



## johnko1

In some days I will have a new rig (i7-2700k,asus maximus v gene and gtx 680 in the future).Also I will have a lot of watercooling parts to build my first WATERCOOLING LOOP!I just have to buy the supreme hf full en nickel waterblock and I'm ready!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> My new case came today!
> Unfortunaly my 480 radiators dident! 1 negative thing is that they dont seem to sell solid PSU brackets for those who dont use 4 PSUs, so now I got 3 "holes" in the rear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should have been included if you ask me
> Oh and sorry for showing pictures without water in it


Get hold of em. I believe that the case is sposed to come with 3 plates. I know it had them when Tiny Tom Logan reviewed that case for his YouTube case review. I think someone forgot to make sure they were in the box. If it doesn't that would be quite surprising.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ziox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get hold of em. I believe that the case is sposed to come with 3 plates. I know it had them when Tiny Tom Logan reviewed that case for his YouTube case review. I think someone forgot to make sure they were in the box. If it doesn't that would be quite surprising.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can confirm this mine came with 3 PSU covers.

I would contact them. Their support is awesome and they are very down to earth easy to talk to guys.


----------



## Ceadderman

You know I'm sitting here looking at that case and I swear you could have TWO mainboards mounted in there with PLENTY of room for Water Cooling GPU on both Boards and PSU.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aventadoor

That would actually be pretty cool.
Like something like the TJ11 with the motherboards turned 90 degrees. Or 1 standard ATX, and the other is reverse ( so you can have 2x removable motherboardtrays)!!!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You know I'm sitting here looking at that case and I swear you could have TWO mainboards mounted in there with PLENTY of room for Water Cooling GPU on both Boards and PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


...Talk about creativity, at first glance I thought it was a converted metal wall unit.


----------



## edito25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toaad*
> 
> edito25 that looks frikn sweet!


Thanks!


----------



## Aventadoor

Little picture here off my sig rig inside the case with watercooling. Nothing fancy, just desided to mount it up as quick as possible which is why the tubing is as it is







. Its a 240 radiator on top which will be replaced by a 480. Its a 360 at bottom which probly wont get replaced, but get another 480 by its side.

EDIT: Oh and yes the second GPU is missing cables because I dont have 6 pin extensions, only 8....
Neither is the cables long enough for the second gpu


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> That would actually be pretty cool.
> Like something like the TJ11 with the motherboards turned 90 degrees. Or 1 standard ATX, and the other is reverse ( so you can have 2x removable motherboardtrays)!!!


Yeah this. That's what I'm sayin. There is enough room in there to have a strip of metal for cable management in between. With the roof and cellar portions, plenty of room for Drives and Radiators. Hmmm wonder if I could talk them into expanding the usage of that Case. Would make a GREAT Server farm case for Folding.









Just pulled the trigger on that NZXT 2m Red LED string. It was on eBay for $17, so it looks like I'm gonna have lights once again in my case hopefully. It's too dark at the moment so in order to check for leaks I gotta grab the Flashlight and shine it round. Feels kinda awkward doing so but ya do what ya gotta do, y'know.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

IMG]http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg363/rushmore1305/DSC04613-1.jpg[/IMG]


----------



## zdude

ooohhh, i wish i could afford ONE of those Force GT 120GB let alone TWO!!!! (60GB FTW)


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> ooohhh, i wish i could afford ONE of those Force GT 120GB let alone TWO!!!! (60GB FTW)


there is also 2x 160gb intel ssds, no more HDD in my build


----------



## zdude

don't make me any more jelous than i am







lol


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> there is also 2x 160gb intel ssds, no more HDD in my build


but where do you store everything


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> but where do you store everything


Not everyone needs TBs of storage







I have two 60GB Vertex 3s in RAID 0 for OS/games and a VelociRaptor 300GB for everything else, I don't download a lot anymore.


----------



## edito25

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> IMG]http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg363/rushmore1305/DSC04613-1.jpg[/IMG]






Red to the max!







Sweet looking rig!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Not everyone needs TBs of storage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have two 60GB Vertex 3s in RAID 0 for OS/games and a VelociRaptor 300GB for everything else, I don't download a lot anymore.


True, Under 1tb seems cutting it close tho today since media is just so large. Even documents can get into the hundreds of mb.


----------



## egotrippin

A work in progress.... Murdermod Silverstone TJ07 If somebody has any good ideas about colored sleeving or anything else that would dress it up I'd like to hear it. I already have mdpc-x sleeving on some of the electronics in the bottom but for this exposed part that will show through the window I'm thinking white, silver, and lavendar. Also, I am using Ice Dragon Cooling fluid and I was wondering if anybody thinks it'll look better with clear tubes and the white fluid so there will be a translucent white continuity between the reservoir, tubes, and base.

All ideas are appreciated because I'm new to all this and I've already made a few bad decisions!


----------



## Oberon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4MP4G3*
> 
> Someone wanted me to post up a complete side picture for my build so here it is.


holy, looks exactly like how mine is planned to turn out..


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> but where do you store everything


i have a windows home server 2011 with 9x 1.5tb WD Black caviars in RAID 5 in my garage that serves the 5 computers and 3 lab computers in my house.

Its all on a Cisco SGE2010 switch, its a 48 port gigabit web managed switch that i have configured to push all bandwidth to certain computers doing certain tasks, like playing games or when I'm streaming a movie from server.

i have tested streaming 1080p movie(same one) to al 8 of my machines simultaniously, with out a single drop in frames.

Also run folder redirection just like the SBS server would(small business server) for my documents folder like pictures etc. so nothing is saved on the actual end user machines, its all on the server. very convenient cause i can then remote web and reach files on all my machines from a single point of log in.

You guys should really look into Windows Home Server 2011 or SBS 2011, they have some amazing new features.

RAID 5 FTW!!!!!!!!!!

BEST THING THE WORLD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816117152


----------



## RushMore1205

just gave in and bought this, will be the new case for my server or something, i just could not say no

http://www.cmstore-usa.com/nvidia-692a-combo/


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


Just wondering who can lift up this?


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> just gave in and bought this, will be the new case for my server or something, i just could not say no
> http://www.cmstore-usa.com/nvidia-692a-combo/


ok when you start buying parts for builds that dont exist yet it is time for an intervention


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> ok when you start buying parts for builds that dont exist yet it is time for an intervention Invention!


Fixed it for ya.


----------



## derickwm

I'm completely serious when I say that my friends have made me have many interventions... especially as of late. Needless to say they haven't been successful quite yet.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> A work in progress.... Murdermod Silverstone TJ07 If somebody has any good ideas about colored sleeving or anything else that would dress it up I'd like to hear it. I already have mdpc-x sleeving on some of the electronics in the bottom but for this exposed part that will show through the window I'm thinking white, silver, and lavendar. Also, I am using Ice Dragon Cooling fluid and I was wondering if anybody thinks it'll look better with clear tubes and the white fluid so there will be a translucent white continuity between the reservoir, tubes, and base.
> 
> All ideas are appreciated because I'm new to all this and I've already made a few bad decisions!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Black MDPC with white shrink. Would really POP mixed with the white Tubing and black fittings.









Wish Nils put in a tad bit more time a day though. I never seem to be able to time BST to PST. I need to get some more shrink and black sleeving.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering who can lift up this?
Click to expand...

If he's like me he he lifts off the table setting up on bench doing the work and then returning the system to the table. No need for lots of bending and twisting that way.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> just gave in and bought this, will be the new case for my server or something, i just could not say no
> http://www.cmstore-usa.com/nvidia-692a-combo/
> 
> 
> 
> ok when you start buying parts for builds that dont exist yet it is time for an intervention
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm completely serious when I say that my friends have made me have many interventions... especially as of late. Needless to say they haven't been successful quite yet.










Not sure anyone here needs an intervention unless they start modding their car to be a mobile server.









Recently finished the sleeving to my fans. You probably won't see it but that's the point.



























I'll have better pics once I get my NZXT string strung and my Block LEDs' mocked up and sleeved.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycste

just updating current fancy look with my cellphone pic, rest of details found in my log lol



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## derickwm

Build is far from finished in terms of watercooling and cable management but it's a start







and it's up and running. Lots of more pictures in my Halloween build log. <3


----------



## Ceadderman

There a build somewhere in that mess derick?









j/k I hadda yank your chain Mate.









Still, I hope you have a case or Bench picked out for that.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

My mess of a rig before break down. Just figured I'd post up a pic to show you how NOT to route tubing









Next build will be using a bayres with D5 pump mounted to it, and the radiator will be the opposite way so that the hoses linking them are hidden in the bay. Should come out much cleaner


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edito25*
> 
> Here's my NZXT 810!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excellent job on your Switch there, looks great.
Side note: This thread moves so FREAKING FAST! LOL


----------



## bundymania

Look at this nice block ! Finally it´s available in the shop(s)


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at this nice block ! Finally it´s available in the shop(s)


What is that block? Who makes it? What's performance like? That thing is SUH WEET lookin... and makes me not want to order a XSPC Raystorm


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> What is that block? Who makes it? What's performance like? That thing is SUH WEET lookin... and makes me not want to order a XSPC Raystorm


It's made by MIPS. They always make solid products. Aquatuning has it for sale.


----------



## Krahe

Looks very interesting Bundy, I like the AMD styling, a bit different from the ones we normally see, very low restriction to. Was thinking of getting a 5-Noz, will be interesting to see how they compare.


----------



## Ceadderman

Show me what EK Supreme HF JP1 is please. I believe that's the designator of the highest flow plate is. JP 3 is midperformance.









~Ceadder


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at this nice block ! Finally it´s available in the shop(s)


Finally a good looking AMD block, might consider this to replace my EK LTX block


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Show me what EK Supreme HF JP1 is please. I believe that's the designator of the highest flow plate is. JP 3 is midperformance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That table is for flow rates and JP 1 is the most restrictive of Supreme HF jetplates. JP 6 that has better performance and flow rate would be more interesting.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Show me what EK Supreme HF JP1 is please. I believe that's the designator of the highest flow plate is. JP 3 is midperformance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That table is for flow rates and JP 1 is the most restrictive of Supreme HF jetplates. JP 6 that has better performance and flow rate would be more interesting.
Click to expand...

That then. Cause just throwing up a EK Supreme with a midperformance plate and comparing it to the rest os lomd pf misleading to those who are unknowledgeable regarding blocks and performance. I've got 5 installed in my block since I didn't get the freebie back when they were being given away. At the very least show for 3 and then show for 6.









~Ceadder


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That then. Cause just throwing up a EK Supreme with a midperformance plate and comparing it to the rest os lomd pf misleading to those who are unknowledgeable regarding blocks and performance. I've got 5 installed in my block since I didn't get the freebie back when they were being given away. At the very least show for 3 and then show for 6.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


On Martin's testing JP 6 did pretty good :


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at this nice block ! Finally it´s available in the shop(s)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


whoa! those manufacturing from Germany?


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> whoa! those manufacturing from Germany?


i think so


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That then. Cause just throwing up a EK Supreme with a midperformance plate and comparing it to the rest os lomd pf misleading to those who are unknowledgeable regarding blocks and performance. I've got 5 installed in my block since I didn't get the freebie back when they were being given away. At the very least show for 3 and then show for 6.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Martin's testing JP 6 did pretty good :
Click to expand...

So based on that chart the Koolance CPU-370 is better than the Raystorm? Less restriction but at the same time, only a couple tenths of a degree higher than the Raystorm in cooling results? Or am I not reading that right


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So based on that chart the Koolance CPU-370 is better than the Raystorm? Less restriction but at the same time, only a couple tenths of a degree higher than the Raystorm in cooling results? Or am I not reading that right


That table only shows flow rates, Rasa is most restrictive of those and DT 5Noz least restrictive, whole review is here : http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/16/i7-3930k-cpu-ek-supreme-hf-plate/


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So based on that chart the Koolance CPU-370 is better than the Raystorm? Less restriction but at the same time, only a couple tenths of a degree higher than the Raystorm in cooling results? Or am I not reading that right
> 
> 
> 
> That table only shows flow rates, Rasa is most restrictive of those and DT 5Noz least restrictive, whole review is here : http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/16/i7-3930k-cpu-ek-supreme-hf-plate/
Click to expand...

I read the chart backwards. Sticking with my raystorm I was going to order LOL

EDIT: Still early for me, I'm not paying attention fully


----------



## phillyd

are there any american based companies selling the MIPS Iceforce AMD? id have to pay for shipping from Germany. from aquatuning, bc the US doesnt have it


----------



## Antykain

Here are a couple of pics with the MIPS Iceforce installed ASUS Maxumus Extreme IV mobo.. Some of the Geil Black Dragon RAM also, which I've been looking at getting also..


















I really like the inner block channels:










I might consider replacing my Raystorm with this.. Really love how it looks.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> Here are a couple of pics with the MIPS Iceforce installed ASUS Maxumus Extreme IV mobo.. Some of the Geil Black Dragon RAM also, which I've been looking at getting also..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the inner block channels:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might consider replacing my Raystorm with this.. Really love how it looks.


But how does it perform in relation to the Raystorm is the question?


----------



## Shogon

Gosh looks like I found a replacement block for my w3680 if I ever need one, a nice big X would go nice with my X58 Classified.


----------



## mironccr345

^ Those are some nice blocks!

On another note, here's what happens after 8 months with no fan filters!


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^ Those are some nice blocks!
> 
> On another note, here's what happens after 8 months with no fan filters!


Yea, mine looked almost identical to that, and that's after repeated times blasting the dust out with a datavac... I took the whole computer apart yesterday and gave it a THOROUGH cleaning. She's gonna love me when she gets put back together.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^ Those are some nice blocks!
> On another note, here's what happens after 8 months with no fan filters!


You need to start a new thread asking OCN why your temps are so high on a 360 rad. I just can't figure it out...


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> But how does it perform in relation to the Raystorm is the question?


http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/450-update-mips-astral-alias-iceforce-hf.html?start=3

Iceforce seems to be same as Astral


----------



## jackofhearts495

I can't find that Iceforce for sale on Aquatuning (or anywhere else for that matter). Would someone mind dropping a link?


----------



## EditeD

posting on epic page.


----------



## Eyedea

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p13393_MIPS-ICEFORCE-HF-Sockel-1155-1156-1oe-Nickel-POM.html

There ya go JackofHearts


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> You need to start a new thread asking OCN why your temps are so high on a 360 rad. I just can't figure it out...


haha, I knew my there were dusty. I usually have fan filters, but I had to take them out of my RV02 when I installed the RX 360.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea, mine looked almost identical to that, and that's after repeated times blasting the dust out with a datavac... I took the whole computer apart yesterday and gave it a THOROUGH cleaning. She's gonna love me when she gets put back together.


I took my rad to work so I can use compressed air to clean it out. It looks brand new.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EditeD*
> 
> posting on epic page.




I'll post some old pics just so I stay on topic.









Old Stacker from 2007.


----------



## phillyd

ouch thats more than 150% the price of the raystorm, and id need to ship it!


----------



## bundymania

Yeah, but it´s made in Germany, so that price is "ok" and it performs better than a Heatkiller 3.0 - so place your order TODAY









Here´s a comparison between the prototype and EK HF Supreme from oldschool user SCAMPS

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/der-wakue-bastel-bilder-thread-ungesplittet-regelupdate-1-post-beachten-776300-215.html#post18772976










Astral = Iceforce

PS: Forget the result from that little review site in Austria....


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^ Those are some nice blocks!
> 
> On another note, here's what happens after 8 months with no fan filters!


I highly recommending this as below -


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Yea, mine looked almost identical to that, and that's after repeated times blasting the dust out with a datavac... I took the whole computer apart yesterday and gave it a THOROUGH cleaning. She's gonna love me when she gets put back together.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> I highly recommending this as below -


You got ninja'd!


----------



## DaClownie

Double post to get the #20k


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> I highly recommending this as below -


Thanks for the suggestion. Hopefully i'll get to use the fan filters on the RV02 when I install the 540mm radiator. But I brought the radiator to work and used an air compressor to clean it up.


----------



## ShortAlieN

To be able to use the filters in the RV02 with a 540mm rad you are going to have to do some modification. I'm working something for mine, but I'm not really sure how to do it yet because I want it to look like it belongs there. Thats the hard part.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> To be able to use the filters in the RV02 with a 540mm rad you are going to have to do some modification. I'm working something for mine, but I'm not really sure how to do it yet because I want it to look like it belongs there. Thats the hard part.


I figured it wouldn't be easy. But if it doesn't work out, I can do what level8hacker did and glue magnets for the filters and stick them under the case?? I guess I'll figure it out once I get to that point. Unless.....you figure it out before I do.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> There a build somewhere in that mess derick?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k I hadda yank your chain Mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, I hope you have a case or Bench picked out for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hehe









I'm picking up a DangerDen 29 soon. It is currently on my original Syrillian Bench though.


----------



## ShortAlieN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I figured it wouldn't be easy. But if it doesn't work out, I can do what level8hacker did and glue magnets for the filters and stick them under the case?? I guess I'll figure it out once I get to that point. Unless.....you figure it out before I do.


I have a piece of aluminum that I am going to get machined to go underneath so I can slide the filters in & out. I like the solution that level8hacker used, but that will not work on the raven case. The feet get in the way of the filters. I guess with a little bit of trim work on the plastic it can be done, but I'm just not willing to settle for that.


----------



## McDown

got new fittings... and maybe motherboard


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Curious about all the talk a few posts back about the Supreme HF and the jet plate #6 - I got mine before 6 came out, I'm running #1 I think (was the best at the time) and my block shipped with all 5 + a blank. I have access to a mill so I could make my own plate out of the blank, any thoughts on what would be best for shapes? Also willing to experiment a little with different ideas if people have suggestions they want to throw in!


----------



## derickwm

That is a beautiful build sir. How's the noise on that tiny 40mm (?) fan?


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> I have a piece of aluminum that I am going to get machined to go underneath so I can slide the filters in & out. I like the solution that level8hacker used, but that will not work on the raven case. The feet get in the way of the filters. I guess with a little bit of trim work on the plastic it can be done, but I'm just not willing to settle for that.


how did you secure the fans down? also did you need to buy new screws? In my ft02 i cant find long enough screws to go through the fan into the rad


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> I have a piece of aluminum that I am going to get machined to go underneath so I can slide the filters in & out. I like the solution that level8hacker used, but that will not work on the raven case. The feet get in the way of the filters. I guess with a little bit of trim work on the plastic it can be done, but I'm just not willing to settle for that.


Hmmmm, I'll have to look at the bottom of the case again when I test fit the rad. Your Idea is good too. I'd like to see your solution if you get around to making the piece's. I might even be interested in buying one from you.


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That is a beautiful build sir. How's the noise on that tiny 40mm (?) fan?


For me it's very annoying and the lowest I can set in bios is 60%.


----------



## derickwm

Get a custom WB


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edito25*
> 
> Here's my NZXT 810!


That looks smexy!

But what's the T-Connect for?


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Get a custom WB


I'm still not sure if I want to keep the board


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> how did you secure the fans down? also did you need to buy new screws? In my ft02 i cant find long enough screws to go through the fan into the rad


I used screws meant for 120x38mm fans. Then just ground them down to the proper size with a dremel.


----------



## Dahlmann

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> got new fittings... and maybe motherboard


For the life of me, I can't figure out why not every damn motherboard out there is "armor plated" like the Sabertooths already... Makes every rig look a thousand times more clean and tight! Not to mention people like me wouldn't have to worry when they're tightening small screws close to the MB.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> im with u on that Karlitos it looks sweet the way it loos like its all coming from one source tweaking that designee and cleaning it up a little would be like hmmmm it would set it off but if he jouind the rads together he would loos that look use the right fittings and it work like
> a koolanc t junction between the 2 rads as input and than a T junkshen as a retern then that should give him better flow and the rads will work together
> you could use 2 of thease
> 
> ther $15 au ther a drain port
> revers for retern
> better flow with this setup and also better water full loop rotations


Yep, I'll decrease the amount of tubing. And I'll connect the 2 rads with that. On exiting the rads does it matter if one of the tubes is shorter?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Curious about all the talk a few posts back about the Supreme HF and the jet plate #6 - I got mine before 6 came out, I'm running #1 I think (was the best at the time) and my block shipped with all 5 + a blank. I have access to a mill so I could make my own plate out of the blank, any thoughts on what would be best for shapes? Also willing to experiment a little with different ideas if people have suggestions they want to throw in!


Only a completely open plate would offer the best flow rate. So if you can figure out where to drill them you could drill a couple holes through the blank and use a rat tail file to deburr it and make sure there is no shavings left with a good wipe down prior to use. No it won't be completely open but given that there are two flow chambers in the top of the block that's not really going to matter anyway unless you mod the top and that would void any warranty you have with it. So if you take one of the other plates where you can see the flow chambers and mark the central vane on the plate you can use that to get an idea of where to punch through the blank. Circles will ALWAYS flow better than slots.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> I have a piece of aluminum that I am going to get machined to go underneath so I can slide the filters in & out. I like the solution that level8hacker used, but that will not work on the raven case. The feet get in the way of the filters. I guess with a little bit of trim work on the plastic it can be done, but I'm just not willing to settle for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how did you secure the fans down? also did you need to buy new screws? In my ft02 i cant find long enough screws to go through the fan into the rad
Click to expand...

Dude made a plate to mount to the radiator through the fans effectively sandwiching them in place while giving him someplace to mount the filter. Thats an awesome idea too one I'm probably going to copy. I already have dust filters in place but it would be nice to add one to the underside of my 360 should I choose to add Push. I can add a 360 filter right now the way it is but if I go with Push I'd have to get a filter for each one w/o a magnetic seal for it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *edito25*
> 
> Here's my NZXT 810!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks smexy!
> 
> But what's the T-Connect for?
Click to expand...

T is for Drain purposes. Although I would suggest to set the capat the bottom of that and flow across it and into the radiatior. Flow rate should increase a bit and cooling along with it by not terminating in a 90 degree as that is. Get a 45 and add it on the inline side.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Yep, I'll decrease the amount of tubing. And I'll connect the 2 rads with that. On exiting the rads does it matter if one of the tubes is shorter?


This would be better imho...



For $4 for a T Fitting that you have to add rotary male/male fittings to connect both pieces together anyway you might as well pay a reasonable price for. So get whatever is cheaper and build it the same way as first suggested.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That is a beautiful build sir. How's the noise on that tiny 40mm (?) fan?
> 
> 
> 
> For me it's very annoying and the lowest I can set in bios is 60%.
Click to expand...

remove it......?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahlmann*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> got new fittings... and maybe motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the life of me, I can't figure out why not every damn motherboard out there is "armor plated" like the Sabertooths already... Makes every rig look a thousand times more clean and tight! Not to mention people like me wouldn't have to worry when they're tightening small screws close to the MB.
Click to expand...

Because it makes the motherboard hotter and has less to show off really. I prefer the non-armoured look myself anyway. The plastic covering just looks cheap.


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

pop a resistor into the loop!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> T is for Drain purposes. Although I would suggest to set the capat the bottom of that and flow across it and into the radiatior. Flow rate should increase a bit and cooling along with it by not terminating in a 90 degree as that is. Get a 45 and add it on the inline side.


Looks like he also has a temperature sensor plug on there as well. I did close to the same thing. I have an inline temperature sensor on my drainline that seems to work pretty well


----------



## Dahlmann

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> remove it......?
> Because it makes the motherboard hotter and has less to show off really. I prefer the non-armoured look myself anyway. The plastic covering just looks cheap.


To each his own, I guess. But how bad is the heat build-up though? I always thought the armor was a way of dissipating the heat?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Just hit me. No hose clamps on that T-piece??


----------



## phillyd

it just directs airflow over the heatsinks, if there are no fans providing airflow, it acts as insulation.


----------



## wermad

It does look good but tbh I see more costs added to mb. I would rather do without it so I can add blocks down the road without having to contend with this obstacle.


----------



## RushMore1205

man sorry i just can't stop looking at these two pictures, they look so cool, it looks like something so futuristic, don't you guys agree?


----------



## ShortAlieN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> how did you secure the fans down? also did you need to buy new screws? In my ft02 i cant find long enough screws to go through the fan into the rad


I had to get new screws. The fans are 1.25" thick so anything longer will work. I used some 1.5" ones and added a nylon washer to make sure they would not touch the fins.










Just some allen head bolts, 6-32 1.5"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Hmmmm, I'll have to look at the bottom of the case again when I test fit the rad. Your Idea is good too. I'd like to see your solution if you get around to making the piece's. I might even be interested in buying one from you.


Right on. It is a simple design, I just need to do some fine tuning on it. I'm using .250" aluminum plate. The only thing I'm working on right now is how to mount the feet onto the bottom and make it flow as well as the original feet do from the front. I'll let you know when its done.


----------



## bundymania

Hey Rushmore, some sexy pics you have there ! Think about using the EK Easy Mount Kit to improve the Bliinnnggg !
















http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p11689_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-CPU-Easy-Mount-HF---Nickel.html


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hey Rushmore, some sexy pics you have there ! Think about using the EK Easy Mount Kit to improve the Bliinnnggg !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p11689_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-CPU-Easy-Mount-HF---Nickel.html


Yep, your definately lacking in the "Bling" department there Rush! Needs MOAR!


----------



## rkwallace

Thanks for the recommendation, I need to get one of these


----------



## boostedevo

First attempt at water cooling - RX240 in Corsair 650D. Comments or critique welcome! I always like to know what I can do better next time.

*Cool stuff:*
XSPC RX240 rad
XSPC dual bay res
XSPC Raystorm cpu block
Swiftech MCP655 pump
Gentle Tyhpoon AP15's

*Hot stuff*:
i7-3930k @ 4.5GHz for now (125 strap, 1.270vcore, 1.2v vsa)
Sabertooth X79
Corsair Dominator GT @ 2000MHz for now (1.5v vdimm)
Kingwin KZP-1000 Platinum PSU (Super Flower)

*Coming soon:*
XSPC EX240 rad for the top
GTX 680 Hydro Copper









Picture below is deceiving, theres plenty of space between the drive cage and fans ontop of rad. I was very pleased with all fitment. Theres also a 120x12mm Slipstream fan that fits perfectly between drive cage and front grill










Pics of the Kingwin/Super Frower 1kW! This is the main reason I could fit the RX240 at the bottom of the 650D. The short length and modular design (and superior performance) made me choose this over a Seasonic or Corsair.


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> man sorry i just can't stop looking at these two pictures, they look so cool, it looks like something so futuristic, don't you guys agree?


Haha do you masturbate in the mirror too? JK its because is your pc right? I agree its beautiful, i would have gone matte black fitting, but reaaly nice


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah, but it´s made in Germany, so that price is "ok" and it performs better than a Heatkiller 3.0 - so place your order TODAY


I don't speak freaky-deaky-dutch and don't know exactly what those pictures are telling me, so can someone simplify this for me: is this MIPS Iceforce CPU block (arguably) the best one money can buy? I'm preparing for my next build.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I don't speak freaky-deaky-dutch and don't know exactly what those pictures are telling me, so can someone simplify this for me: is this MIPS Iceforce CPU block (arguably) the best one money can buy? I'm preparing for my next build.


Personally I'd wait till a trusted tester like Martin from Martinsliquidlabs.org has put it through its paces.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I feel like even Sleved cables are not good enough to go with the perfection of Water Cooling. I feel like there has do be a better way for sable to look uniform. When they are all messed up it does not look really nice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> I don't speak freaky-deaky-dutch and don't know exactly what those pictures are telling me, so can someone simplify this for me: is this MIPS Iceforce CPU block (arguably) the best one money can buy? I'm preparing for my next build.


So the Kryos HF is no longer the best of the best? Man I've been out of touch with cpu blocks or is just an explosion of new blocks recently


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah, but it´s made in Germany, so that price is "ok" and it performs better than a Heatkiller 3.0 - so place your order TODAY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't speak freaky-deaky-dutch and don't know exactly what those pictures are telling me, so can someone simplify this for me: is this MIPS Iceforce CPU block (arguably) the best one money can buy? I'm preparing for my next build.
Click to expand...

Probably isn't bc it's made from copper. Silver has the best thermal conductivity so unless this design is über revolutionary it most likely won't beat the kryos .925 (even though it is a silver and copper alloy and not .999)

The bow of the base also matters since slighter bowed blocks are better for 2011 bc of the larger die size while a more severe bow is better for 1155 since it has a more concentrated contact


----------



## CRosko42

Hey everyone, just a quick question I didn't want to start a thread about, working on adding my 680 to my loop and the block arrives tomorrow. Might have a slight issue though...

I am using 1/2 id 3/4 od tubing and bitspower compression fittings, will I need a spacer/extender for this waterblock: Koolance VID-NX680?

Problem area will be the top where I fear the pcb might be in the way without an extender.

I am hoping I will not need one, but worst case I can order a spacer and overnight/2nd day it.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> Hey everyone, just a quick question I didn't want to start a thread about, working on adding my 680 to my loop and the block arrives tomorrow. Might have a slight issue though...
> I am using 1/2 id 3/4 od tubing and bitspower compression fittings, will I need a spacer/extender for this waterblock: Koolance VID-NX680?
> Problem area will be the top where I fear the pcb might be in the way without an extender.
> I am hoping I will not need one, but worst case I can order a spacer and overnight/2nd day it.


Doesn't look like it, especially according to the manual.


----------



## SimpleTech

Finally migrated to X79.



















Still need to test some other boards.


----------



## toaad

Thought I'd post pics of rig as it is right now.


----------



## SinX7

Just got most of my loop in today!


----------



## RushMore1205

just waiting on one more ram kit, and the new TJ07 project can kick off

this was taken with Samsung Galaxy s2


----------



## User2

Here's my Forever Beta


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toaad*
> 
> Thought I'd post pics of rig as it is right now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Chunky tube ftw







Makes me want to switch back to 1/2x3/4







.

what happened to the 6970?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *toaad*
> 
> Thought I'd post pics of rig as it is right now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chunky tube ftw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me want to switch back to 1/2x3/4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

I love my 1/2"x 3/4" PC LRT tubing. Nice and sturdy and still flexible enough to play with a radiator full of coolant in the dark without hassle. We had a power outage last night and since I was down and had everything handy at the moment I finished my fans by removing them one at a time and sleeving them.



























~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I love my 1/2"x 3/4" PC LRT tubing. Nice and sturdy and still flexible enough to play with a radiator full of coolant in the dark without hassle. We had a power outage last night and since I was down and had everything handy at the moment I finished my fans by removing them one at a time and sleeving them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I hate heating the shrink with a lighter. Meh, I just don't feel its right. I'm weird I guess. I got me my heat gun from Harbor Tools and its been taking care of business for three years now and six sleeved psu(s)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I love my 1/2"x 3/4" PC LRT tubing. Nice and sturdy and still flexible enough to play with a radiator full of coolant in the dark without hassle. We had a power outage last night and since I was down and had everything handy at the moment I finished my fans by removing them one at a time and sleeving them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate heating the shrink with a lighter. Meh, I just don't feel its right. I'm weird I guess. I got me my heat gun from HarborTools.com and its been taking care of business for three years now and six sleeved psu(s)
Click to expand...

You do know I was w/o power yesterday. Right?







Bit difficult to run heatgun w/o electricity. Unless I get a dedicated generator just for the heatgun.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You do know I was w/o power yesterday. Right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bit difficult to run heatgun w/o electricity. Unless I get a dedicated generator just for the heatgun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


That's why I mentioned I hate using a lighter
















edit: hehe, sorry wasnt a bit specific there. I assumed you used a lighter right? Anyways, I would have waited to use my trusty heat gun. I don't trust a lighter


----------



## toaad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *toaad*
> 
> Thought I'd post pics of rig as it is right now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chunky tube ftw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me want to switch back to 1/2x3/4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> what happened to the 6970?
Click to expand...

Hah sold the 6970 about a month ago with the intention of selling the 6990 aswell and jumping on the 680 SLI bandwagon. but on release here the 680 was and still is way overpriced in NZ.. I only play on 1080p single monitor so gunna wait before upgrading the gpu.

I'm going to be sticking with this tubing size coz all my compressions are1/2 3/4. Its cheaper to buy new tubing than all those fittings lol


----------



## phillyd

Hey guys, should i go with the EK LTX in clear for $45 or the Raystorm for $50
if i get the raystorm ill probably paint it, if i get the EK it will be blue due to my future fluid


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only a completely open plate would offer the best flow rate. So if you can figure out where to drill them you could drill a couple holes through the blank and use a rat tail file to deburr it and make sure there is no shavings left with a good wipe down prior to use. No it won't be completely open but given that there are two flow chambers in the top of the block that's not really going to matter anyway unless you mod the top and that would void any warranty you have with it. So if you take one of the other plates where you can see the flow chambers and mark the central vane on the plate you can use that to get an idea of where to punch through the blank. Circles will ALWAYS flow better than slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude made a plate to mount to the radiator through the fans effectively sandwiching them in place while giving him someplace to mount the filter. Thats an awesome idea too one I'm probably going to copy. I already have dust filters in place but it would be nice to add one to the underside of my 360 should I choose to add Push. I can add a 360 filter right now the way it is but if I go with Push I'd have to get a filter for each one w/o a magnetic seal for it.


First off, for filters: Check out DemciFlex filters- they're a little on the pricey side, but the ones I have are worth every penny. They're magnetic and flexible so they're easy to take off, wash and stick back on. They come in all shapes and sizes...

As for the block, I have a mill, so I can precisely locate holes and slots wherever I want them... And I'm not concerned about flowrate and restriction necessarily, I'm looking for temperature performance- that may require some restriction since the block was originally designed to use jet impingement. I'm also not concerned really about modding the top as long as it doesn't hurt the structure of the block, goal would still be to increase thermal performance.

Also, circles will NOT always flow better than slots, that's a horrible generalization to make. If you want flowrate, the wider the opening, the more flow- you're not into a super high-flow regime where the boundary layer off the wall will cause issues. Same reason a box shroud on a rad will out perform 3 fans over gutted fan-shrouds. Unless I'm specifically trying to induce vortices in the flow over the fins, a matrix of circles will not be the way to go, and in fact they're liable to be more restrictive than the slot.

I think I'll try to make some new blanks out of brass and then do some tests to see what shape works the best- it could be that the added turbulence from a bunch of round holes would help, or increasing the flow by making a wide open slot would work. Personally I think a single slot is the way to go, and then it's a matter of dialing in the right dimensions, but we'll see where the experiments lead...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only a completely open plate would offer the best flow rate. So if you can figure out where to drill them you could drill a couple holes through the blank and use a rat tail file to deburr it and make sure there is no shavings left with a good wipe down prior to use. No it won't be completely open but given that there are two flow chambers in the top of the block that's not really going to matter anyway unless you mod the top and that would void any warranty you have with it. So if you take one of the other plates where you can see the flow chambers and mark the central vane on the plate you can use that to get an idea of where to punch through the blank. Circles will ALWAYS flow better than slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude made a plate to mount to the radiator through the fans effectively sandwiching them in place while giving him someplace to mount the filter. Thats an awesome idea too one I'm probably going to copy. I already have dust filters in place but it would be nice to add one to the underside of my 360 should I choose to add Push. I can add a 360 filter right now the way it is but if I go with Push I'd have to get a filter for each one w/o a magnetic seal for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, for filters: Check out DemciFlex filters- they're a little on the pricey side, but the ones I have are worth every penny. They're magnetic and flexible so they're easy to take off, wash and stick back on. They come in all shapes and sizes...
> 
> As for the block, I have a mill, so I can precisely locate holes and slots wherever I want them... And I'm not concerned about flowrate and restriction necessarily, I'm looking for temperature performance- that may require some restriction since the block was originally designed to use jet impingement. I'm also not concerned really about modding the top as long as it doesn't hurt the structure of the block, goal would still be to increase thermal performance.
> 
> Also, circles will NOT always flow better than slots, that's a horrible generalization to make. If you want flowrate, the wider the opening, the more flow- you're not into a super high-flow regime where the boundary layer off the wall will cause issues. Same reason a box shroud on a rad will out perform 3 fans over gutted fan-shrouds. Unless I'm specifically trying to induce vortices in the flow over the fins, a matrix of circles will not be the way to go, and in fact they're liable to be more restrictive than the slot.
> 
> I think I'll try to make some new blanks out of brass and then do some tests to see what shape works the best- it could be that the added turbulence from a bunch of round holes would help, or increasing the flow by making a wide open slot would work. Personally I think a single slot is the way to go, and then it's a matter of dialing in the right dimensions, but we'll see where the experiments lead...
Click to expand...

Agreed on DEMCiFlexies Salt. I have them, they are awesome. Just relating in a logical manner how that came to be without getting into details that I didn't know anything about. i.e. fabrication methonds.









I should have been more clear. 2 circular holes about the size of the chambers (+/-) should always be better than 5 straight lines that are broken up by the internal separator in the top. Apologies for that.









@werm... to be honest I rather like using my lighter. I can focus the heat better than using a heatgun. I have a hair dryer for initially shrinking the stuff down until the focus work requires a little more attention. Once I get it down to that I just keep moving the work while heating the shrink. Turns out pretty nice. My webbie doesn't do it justice imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Agreed on DEMCiFlexies Salt. I have them, they are awesome. Just relating in a logical manner how that came to be without getting into details that I didn't know anything about. i.e. fabrication methonds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have been more clear. 2 circular holes about the size of the chambers (+/-) should always be better than 5 straight lines that are broken up by the internal separator in the top. Apologies for that.


Demci filters have saved my rig in my current apartment







Wish they came in MORA size....

I should also clarify: I'm not going to go for multiple slots, it's going to be a single one, opening thickess and width may be varied to experiment, but I'm not stacking slots together like the other jet plates, I just don't think they'll perform. As for the chambers and circles vs slots, a slot that's broken up by the divide in that top chamber would probably have better flow unless the circles were much larger than the openings simply because the circles would block flow in the corners where a slot would have all that extra area open. I think the divider is there to help equalize and direct the flow and pressure within the block, but it may also be there for internal strength - when I pull the block I'll check it out and do some tests to figure out a game plan. Just wish I had a block to run in the mean time- hate to take this rig offline just to mess with the block... Anybody got one they want to lend me for a week?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys, should i go with the EK LTX in clear for $45 or the Raystorm for $50
> if i get the raystorm ill probably paint it, if i get the EK it will be blue due to my future fluid


RayStorm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Agreed on DEMCiFlexies Salt. I have them, they are awesome. Just relating in a logical manner how that came to be without getting into details that I didn't know anything about. i.e. fabrication methonds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have been more clear. 2 circular holes about the size of the chambers (+/-) should always be better than 5 straight lines that are broken up by the internal separator in the top. Apologies for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Demci filters have saved my rig in my current apartment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish they came in MORA size....
> 
> I should also clarify: I'm not going to go for multiple slots, it's going to be a single one, opening thickess and width may be varied to experiment, but I'm not stacking slots together like the other jet plates, I just don't think they'll perform. As for the chambers and circles vs slots, a slot that's broken up by the divide in that top chamber would probably have better flow unless the circles were much larger than the openings simply because the circles would block flow in the corners where a slot would have all that extra area open. I think the divider is there to help equalize and direct the flow and pressure within the block, but it may also be there for internal strength - when I pull the block I'll check it out and do some tests to figure out a game plan. Just wish I had a block to run in the mean time- hate to take this rig offline just to mess with the block... Anybody got one they want to lend me for a week?
Click to expand...

Had I a spare it would be yours Mate.









I think that you wouldn't want the plate to be larger than the opening due to possible spillage into the outlet chamber causing needless cavitation. I do agree that the holes would have to be a fair size. It's been some time since I had my block apart but I'm thinking 5-7mm diameter each (+/-). Although I do like your idea of spreading the slots apart a bit. That could do the job better. Can't wait to see some results though. You want I'll send you my blank for the cause. Just PM me your specifics.









~Ceadder


----------



## saucon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> First off, for filters: Check out DemciFlex filters- they're a little on the pricey side, but the ones I have are worth every penny. They're magnetic and flexible so they're easy to take off, wash and stick back on. They come in all shapes and sizes...
> [snip]


it's so refreshing to read a well-educated post on OCN Water Cooling. Almost all "information" i see is just small-sampled empirical knowledge. Some people, like MyBadOmen among others, have enough experience to make educated conclusions... but most of the time its stuff like "restrictive blocks are never good, less flow, more heat!".. i can barely stand the people who attempt to preach the heat mechanics of Ivy-Bridge compared to Sandy-Bridge, when they think heat and temperature are the same thing...

Anyways, thank you


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saucon*
> 
> it's so refreshing to read a well-educated post on OCN Water Cooling. Almost all "information" i see is just small-sampled empirical knowledge. Some people, like MyBadOmen among others, have enough experience to make educated conclusions... but most of the time its stuff like "restrictive blocks are never good, less flow, more heat!".. i can barely stand the people who attempt to preach the heat mechanics of Ivy-Bridge compared to Sandy-Bridge, when they think heat and temperature are the same thing...
> Anyways, thank you


I'm getting better temps than my 2600k at 4.5







My block is also considered a bit restricted but I've never had this come up as a concern. Only time I would contemplate restriction is pump performance and life.

Oh, yeah, I do like to sit back and enjoy a well thought out debacle or conversion among our gurus and experts here


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

What heat gun do u use? I've only used lighters and it seems a heat gun might make my life easier.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saucon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> First off, for filters: Check out DemciFlex filters- they're a little on the pricey side, but the ones I have are worth every penny. They're magnetic and flexible so they're easy to take off, wash and stick back on. They come in all shapes and sizes...
> [snip]
> 
> 
> 
> it's so refreshing to read a well-educated post on OCN Water Cooling. Almost all "information" i see is just small-sampled empirical knowledge. Some people, like MyBadOmen among others, have enough experience to make educated conclusions... but most of the time its stuff like "restrictive blocks are never good, less flow, more heat!".. i can barely stand the people who attempt to preach the heat mechanics of Ivy-Bridge compared to Sandy-Bridge, when they think heat and temperature are the same thing...
> 
> Anyways, thank you
Click to expand...

Speaking of filters, the koolance inline filter seems to be one of the greatest things to ever happen to watercooling. I've used it in two builds and over a total of a 4 year period it has caught all the gunk from dyed fluids in my first build as well as caught any and all buildup since then in both builds, both running without any biocides and only distilled water. Definitely worth the small cost.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> What heat gun do u use? I've only used lighters and it seems a heat gun might make my life easier.


http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

I use the low mode for the shrink wrap. Don't use the high mode or that will metl your stuff instantly







I got mine a few years back and I've never had issues with it. I use on cores (cpu and gpu) when there a bit stuck and I can't separate them and a few other things. Makes it easy in removing decals and stickers from stuff too


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> What heat gun do u use? I've only used lighters and it seems a heat gun might make my life easier.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html
> 
> I use the low mode for the shrink wrap. Don't use the high mode or that will metl your stuff instantly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got mine a few years back and I've never had issues with it. I use on cores (cpu and gpu) when there a bit stuck and I can't separate them and a few other things. Makes it easy in removing decals and stickers from stuff too
Click to expand...

Thx, seems reasonable enough. Always great to have more tools. never know what it'll get used for


----------



## Castscythe

well, first off sorry for interrupting some conversations







. this post has been a long time coming (at least it feels like it), but as usual, any comments/suggestions are welcome =D. before i post the pics i will say a few things... 1. its not completely cable managed atm because i havent yet finished the modifications to my back panel (i need to order some spacers, mesh, a 140mm circle saw attachment, and some more acrylic... and maybe a jigsaw because cutting with a dremel gets really really annoying for cuts) 2. i ran decided to mount my harddrives the way i did for space reasons, as well as because it lowered my temps and took the heat the drives created out of the case. 3. im kinda disappointed that i couldnt end up fitting the rx240 in the top like i wanted to... but i guess its ok for now. the jury is still out on whether i will keep it like it is, and continue fiddling with the build, or i might cut up the bottom of my case (the space i just freed up), and put it there... idk yet. i have a few other ideas i might type up after the pics if people are interested, as usual, im happy to hear comments/suggestions/criticisms/etc. 4. im not using pre mixed again... the coolant i used did in fact gunk up my block and cloud my tubing, im just happy i cleaned it out before it got any worse.

and now, the pics:

1.  the modified hard drive cage. i cut up some a plastic 2.5 to 3.5 adapter to provide a spacer to put a little bit of room between the fan and the bay. i used some industrial velcro... this stuff has like a million and one uses... i think i actually use it more often than duck tape XD

2.  the way i designed to mount the cage to the underside of my desk. its set up to that i used velcro, then acrylic, then velcro to mount it to the underside of the desk...

3.  the actual assembly under my desk... this setup lowered my HDD temps by about 20*C.

sorry about the off topic pics, i just want to see if there are any people here who have any suggestions for improvements or the like XP, anywho here are the case pics

1.  the build from the outside. i installed the window last weekend. i cut it freehand with a 10k rpm dremel... i dont think its that bad XP, but i will putting some rubber uchannel molding around the edges to clean it up when it the order arrives at my house. you can also see where i moved the rad, and i think this config has its ups and downs... the fans pulling air into my case has significantly lowered my gpu's temps, and it used less tubing, so i cant complain about those bonuses, the only downside i have had so far is that it gurgles once in awhile, but in reality thats not even an issue, so i dont know why im complaining







.

2.  the side view w/o the side panel. as you can see, i upgraded my psu, and got some more ram (g.skill ripjaws x), as you can also probably see, the removal of the hard drive cage has given me a nice amount of room to work with in the next few weeks.

3.  a better shot of the new psu. im using a rosewell lightning 1000w... tbh i would have rather gone with a corsair 1000w, but i got it new for about $80, so its actually a nice upgrade. i lucked out though... my friend had two, and he didnt know what to do with the one i have now, so he sold it to me







.

4.  the clouded tubing i mentioned... sigh...

5.  as i said, the back hasnt been managed yet XD, but hopefully i will change that soon... just waiting on that shipment XP

well, i hope this post inst too long already XD

anyway, as far as ideas go i was wondering if there where any thoughts on this one: as far as this loop is concerned, when it is finished i would like to have it set up like this xspc d5 dual bay res + laing d5 pump > a slim top 240mm rad, with fans mounted on the exterior top of the case > cpu WB (im hoping for a copper and acrylic supreme HF) > gpu 1 > gpu 2 > rx240 mounted in the bottom of the case (i will have to further cut up my case to do it, but i dont really have an issue with that







) > phoybya 200mm rad mounted where my current front fan is (im planning on cutting out the bottom three 5.25 bay slots for even more room, that way i will just have the pump res combo in the front of the case) which will hopefully fit... but we shall see > ram > res ... right now i think that will be how it ends up, but... as usual... im still thinking about it XD.

well, that about sums up this update... thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions/feedback/etc =D.


----------



## smileytown

Hi everyone, Im new here.

Just wanna share this build that i completed a few days back.





Specs

Shuttle XPC SZ68R5

Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.5GHz

Mushkin Redline 997000 2 x 4GB 1600MHz 7-8-7-24

ASUS Radeon HD7970 3GB @ 1.1GHz

Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD

OCZ Vertex 2 120GB SSD

Cooling

EK Supreme HF Acetal+EN Nickel CPU block

EK Full Cover EK-FC7970 Plexi GPU Block

EK-DDC X-RES 100 Reservoir

EK Laing DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1Plus

EK-VGA IO Bracket For HD7970

EK-FC7970 Backplate

2 x HW Labs Black Ice GTX M92 - 92 millimeter Radiator - Black

4 meters x PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing White 3/8ID 5/8OD

10 x Enzotech Compression Fitting G 1/4 Thread - for 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD Tubing

4 x Koolance NZL-LXG1 Black 90 Degree Swivelling Elbow Bend

2 x Arctic Cooling 92mm F9 Fan


----------



## derickwm

I approve of this^ build. I approve it so hard. Well done sir.


----------



## smileytown

thank you. i intend to do an x79 version of this in the coming months


----------



## Krahe

Very nice work Smileytown, love small builds.


----------



## Fonne

Love that Shuttle, great power with only 2x 92mm rads .... Show more, much more


----------



## azeller09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> Hi everyone, Im new here.
> Just wanna share this build that i completed a few days back.
> 
> 
> Specs
> Shuttle XPC SZ68R5
> Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.5GHz
> Mushkin Redline 997000 2 x 4GB 1600MHz 7-8-7-24
> ASUS Radeon HD7970 3GB @ 1.1GHz
> Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD
> OCZ Vertex 2 120GB SSD
> Cooling
> EK Supreme HF Acetal+EN Nickel CPU block
> EK Full Cover EK-FC7970 Plexi GPU Block
> EK-DDC X-RES 100 Reservoir
> EK Laing DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1Plus
> EK-VGA IO Bracket For HD7970
> EK-FC7970 Backplate
> 2 x HW Labs Black Ice GTX M92 - 92 millimeter Radiator - Black
> 4 meters x PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing White 3/8ID 5/8OD
> 10 x Enzotech Compression Fitting G 1/4 Thread - for 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD Tubing
> 4 x Koolance NZL-LXG1 Black 90 Degree Swivelling Elbow Bend
> 2 x Arctic Cooling 92mm F9 Fan


Are you "Seeker-" @xtremesystems.org?
Awesome build, but doesn't it run very hot?


----------



## smileytown

im not seeker. but i got in contact with him before i started on this build. he's done an x58 version of this system before and, credit where due, his build was much better than mine.

<60degrees on GPU
<72degrees on CPU


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> Hi everyone, Im new here.
> 
> Just wanna share this build that i completed a few days back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs
> 
> Shuttle XPC SZ68R5
> 
> Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.5GHz
> 
> Mushkin Redline 997000 2 x 4GB 1600MHz 7-8-7-24
> 
> ASUS Radeon HD7970 3GB @ 1.1GHz
> 
> Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD
> 
> OCZ Vertex 2 120GB SSD
> 
> Cooling
> 
> EK Supreme HF Acetal+EN Nickel CPU block
> 
> EK Full Cover EK-FC7970 Plexi GPU Block
> 
> EK-DDC X-RES 100 Reservoir
> 
> EK Laing DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1Plus
> 
> EK-VGA IO Bracket For HD7970
> 
> EK-FC7970 Backplate
> 
> 2 x HW Labs Black Ice GTX M92 - 92 millimeter Radiator - Black
> 
> 4 meters x PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing White 3/8ID 5/8OD
> 
> 10 x Enzotech Compression Fitting G 1/4 Thread - for 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD Tubing
> 
> 4 x Koolance NZL-LXG1 Black 90 Degree Swivelling Elbow Bend
> 
> 2 x Arctic Cooling 92mm F9 Fan


Is there a computer in there?


----------



## smileytown

more pics


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Love what you did with that Shuttle there smileytown, lots of power in a tiny box.


----------



## skitzab1

anyone want to come to my Grill this weekend
















jokes picked up my rad grills today




















and i thort id take my freind for a drive.

i think he needed to get out of the house !

[/URL


----------



## jackeyjoe

ok... haven't posted here yet. I think I have one of the more _ridiculous_ setups here











Yes gentlemen, that is an RX480 rad mounted on the back of a CM 690 II


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> ok... haven't posted here yet. I think I have one of the more _ridiculous_ setups here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes gentlemen, that is an RX480 rad mounted on the back of a CM 690 II


why is it ridiculous it dose not seam to clash well maybe the ati card but hay im a nvidia FB


----------



## jackeyjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> why is it ridiculous it dose not seam to clash well maybe the ati card but hay im a nvidia FB


well the rad is bigger than the case









And I have my old GTX570 on the desk behind me... unfortunately nvidia are a little low on vram for my liking(aka my 1440p monitor kills most of their cards).


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> ok... haven't posted here yet. I think I have one of the more _ridiculous_ setups here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes gentlemen, that is an RX480 rad mounted on the back of a CM 690 II
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why is it ridiculous it dose not seam to clash well maybe the ati card but hay im a nvidia FB
Click to expand...

Right? All that green, his computer has an identity crisis


----------



## derickwm

Those cards look thirsty mister.


----------



## jackeyjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Right? All that green, his computer has an identity crisis


haha! I knew someone would comment on that, I like green and black... Perhaps I should change the red accents on the 6950 to green







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Those cards look thirsty mister.


So very thirsty... I can't afford to get them wet though









EDIT I will get to cable management eventually... I know, it's needed but for now it's practical, even though it isn't overly pretty.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> more pics


Now THAT is impressive! Nice work.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Right? All that green, his computer has an identity crisis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha! I knew someone would comment on that, I like green and black... Perhaps I should change the red accents on the 6950 to green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Those cards look thirsty mister.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So very thirsty... I can't afford to get them wet though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT I will get to cable management eventually... I know, it's needed but for now it's practical, even though it isn't overly pretty.
Click to expand...

Reported for malnourished rig.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> well the rad is bigger than the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I have my old GTX570 on the desk behind me... unfortunately nvidia are a little low on vram for my liking(aka my 1440p monitor kills most of their cards).


agread on that !!! but i didnt say that lolz
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Those cards look thirsty mister.


evan made my mouth dry and all that water up behind them thay would be hating u for teasing them








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> haha! I knew someone would comment on that, I like green and black... Perhaps I should change the red accents on the 6950 to green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So very thirsty... I can't afford to get them wet though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT I will get to cable management eventually... I know, it's needed but for now it's practical, even though it isn't overly pretty.


i second the green replacing the red lines can say i have not seen that color on an ati card
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> Now THAT is impressive! Nice work.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> Hi everyone, Im new here.
> Just wanna share this build that i completed a few days back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Specs
> Shuttle XPC SZ68R5
> Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.5GHz
> Mushkin Redline 997000 2 x 4GB 1600MHz 7-8-7-24
> ASUS Radeon HD7970 3GB @ 1.1GHz
> Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD
> OCZ Vertex 2 120GB SSD
> Cooling
> EK Supreme HF Acetal+EN Nickel CPU block
> EK Full Cover EK-FC7970 Plexi GPU Block
> EK-DDC X-RES 100 Reservoir
> EK Laing DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1Plus
> EK-VGA IO Bracket For HD7970
> EK-FC7970 Backplate
> 2 x HW Labs Black Ice GTX M92 - 92 millimeter Radiator - Black
> 4 meters x PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing White 3/8ID 5/8OD
> 10 x Enzotech Compression Fitting G 1/4 Thread - for 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD Tubing
> 4 x Koolance NZL-LXG1 Black 90 Degree Swivelling Elbow Bend
> 2 x Arctic Cooling 92mm F9 Fan


Impressive shuttle build! I've been looking around, scoping parts for a HTPC build.. Your build is giving me a direction I might follow.


----------



## DaClownie

So.... I need some input. I'm doing an order this morning... My HAF 932 Advanced came with a red theme (red front fan) however, I wanted to change the theme up...

The motherboard will be:


With some G.SKILL Ripjaw Z RAM...

With that being said...
Front panel: BitFenix 230mm Blue LED Fan
Rear panel: Cooler Master R4 Blue LED 120mm fan

CPU Cooler: XSPC - Raystorm
Reservoir: XSPC Dual Bay D5 Reservoir
GPU Block: EK Copper/Acetal w/ Backplate

All that stuff is in blue LED.... I could switch out the fans to white LED, and pick up dual white LED for the CPU cooler, and reservoir... And also what sorta tubing should I look at getting with this? If I go blue, would blue tubing be too much? Maybe white tubing with that? or white tubing with either? I use 1/2" barbs with 7/16" tubing...

Sorry for the long post, but I need to get this order done today so my parts are in beginning of next week


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostedevo*
> 
> First attempt at water cooling - RX240 in Corsair 650D. Comments or critique welcome! I always like to know what I can do better next time.
> 
> *Cool stuff:*
> XSPC RX240 rad
> XSPC dual bay res
> XSPC Raystorm cpu block
> Swiftech MCP655 pump
> Gentle Tyhpoon AP15's
> 
> *Hot stuff*:
> i7-3930k @ 4.5GHz for now (125 strap, 1.270vcore, 1.2v vsa)
> Sabertooth X79
> Corsair Dominator GT @ 2000MHz for now (1.5v vdimm)
> Kingwin KZP-1000 Platinum PSU (Super Flower)
> 
> *Coming soon:*
> XSPC EX240 rad for the top
> GTX 680 Hydro Copper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture below is deceiving, theres plenty of space between the drive cage and fans ontop of rad. I was very pleased with all fitment. Theres also a 120x12mm Slipstream fan that fits perfectly between drive cage and front grill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics of the Kingwin/Super Frower 1kW! This is the main reason I could fit the RX240 at the bottom of the 650D. The short length and modular design (and superior performance) made me choose this over a Seasonic or Corsair.


go for RX360 on top!!!


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So.... I need some input. I'm doing an order this morning... My HAF 932 Advanced came with a red theme (red front fan) however, I wanted to change the theme up...
> The motherboard will be:
> 
> With some G.SKILL Ripjaw Z RAM...
> With that being said...
> Front panel: BitFenix 230mm Blue LED Fan
> Rear panel: Cooler Master R4 Blue LED 120mm fan
> CPU Cooler: XSPC - Raystorm
> Reservoir: XSPC Dual Bay D5 Reservoir
> GPU Block: EK Copper/Acetal w/ Backplate
> All that stuff is in blue LED.... I could switch out the fans to white LED, and pick up dual white LED for the CPU cooler, and reservoir... And also what sorta tubing should I look at getting with this? If I go blue, would blue tubing be too much? Maybe white tubing with that? or white tubing with either? I use 1/2" barbs with 7/16" tubing...
> Sorry for the long post, but I need to get this order done today so my parts are in beginning of next week


this was my last blue ud5 build hope this can help u a bit





as u can see the color theam for now is blue and black













some sleaving


----------



## DaClownie

Skitz: Is that clear tubing, clear liquid with blue LEDs behind it? Great job with the sleeving btw... I have a corsair HX850 coming in... and was CONTEMPLATING sleeving it... but that is a boatload of work, number 1, and number 2, I was curious if it voided warranties if you sleeved modular cables as you're not opening up the PSU itself (i'll just leave the ones from the PSU itself alone...


----------



## superericla

Should have paracord, heatshrink, and sleeving tools arriving today. Now I just have to wait for that pesky heat gun...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Should have paracord, heatshrink, and sleeving tools arriving today. Now I just have to wait for that pesky heat gun...


I found a wagner for $23 at home depot


----------



## axipher

Received a little gift last night:



It's a little Micro Delrin & Acrylic Reservoir. This thing looks awesome and pictures don't really do it justice. The Acrylic top comes off and there's a nice O-ring seal between the main body and the top. It's the perfect accent for any small case that needs water cooling.

I'm thinking I might carefully drill out a hole on it for adding an LED to it.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Skitz: Is that clear tubing, clear liquid with blue LEDs behind it? Great job with the sleeving btw... I have a corsair HX850 coming in... and was CONTEMPLATING sleeving it... but that is a boatload of work, number 1, and number 2, I was curious if it voided warranties if you sleeved modular cables as you're not opening up the PSU itself (i'll just leave the ones from the PSU itself alone...


clear hose *koolance blue coolant* and just an *nzxt* led strip just have to position lighting to hit the hosing in a wah it looks glassy *ow and*

man i dont like saying this but i Windex my hosing like once a month


----------



## saucon

skitz, i don't post to say stuff like this, ever

but damn thats a sexy looking case.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saucon*
> 
> skitz, i don't post to say stuff like this, ever
> but damn thats a sexy looking case.


it got gutted and choped up go check the storm fortress build log but dont get scared its going to look better


----------



## Aventadoor

Guys, does it exist Koolance quick disconnects where you can fit a fitting into?
Like Id like to have a quick disconnect direct on the EK Sli bridge, and then a 45 degree directly on the quick disconnect (since it is pretty tight belive it or not) so I can just take a short tube straight onto the radiator?

I also ordred a couple of Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480 radiators today ;D


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Guys, does it exist Koolance quick disconnects where you can fit a fitting into?
> Like Id like to have a quick disconnect direct on the EK Sli bridge, and then a 45 degree directly on the quick disconnect (since it is pretty tight belive it or not) so I can just take a short tube straight onto the radiator?
> I also ordred a couple of Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480 radiators today ;D


They do make threaded ones. Koolance.com explains each model quite well.


----------



## LeandroJVarini

New WC parts


----------



## Ceadderman

Might want to flip those VGA fittings so the tube section is your out and the collar section is in. Less chance of seepage that way.









@Shuttle build... I think I've just pitched a semi.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case


Pull and pray. ← That is what I do

But there are some rigs a few pages back that have a drain port. If you don't want to have a lone tubing hanging around in your case, you can opt for a quick disconnect instead.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case


I think a good drain is pretty important. HUGE pain otherwise. I put the two extra ports on my front 200mm rad facing down so I could drain from there. Pics in my gallery or build log. No T-lines and no extra hoses.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case


I bought myself a drain valve but not fitted it yet.










For now i open this t fitting over a bowl, drain the res then i can tilt the case/rad to drain it.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pull and pray. ← That is what I do
> 
> But there are some rigs a few pages back that have a drain port. If you don't want to have a lone tubing hanging around in your case, you can opt for a quick disconnect instead.
Click to expand...

Yea, I used a pair of cutters and just snipped through a hose and bam, it started draining...

Next random question... I'm using 7/16"x5/8" hoses on 1/2" fat boy barbs... what size clamps do I want? 5/8" OD hoses? Last time I used wire ties, but I'd like this to be a bit more clean this time around


----------



## koniu777

My first loop cpu only for now, will do cards in couple weeks. Temps hover in the upper 50s when running prime, 3930k running at 5ghz 1.45v with a 420 up top in pull config.


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> Hi everyone, Im new here.
> Just wanna share this build that i completed a few days back.
> 
> 
> Specs
> Shuttle XPC SZ68R5
> Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.5GHz
> Mushkin Redline 997000 2 x 4GB 1600MHz 7-8-7-24
> ASUS Radeon HD7970 3GB @ 1.1GHz
> Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD
> OCZ Vertex 2 120GB SSD
> Cooling
> EK Supreme HF Acetal+EN Nickel CPU block
> EK Full Cover EK-FC7970 Plexi GPU Block
> EK-DDC X-RES 100 Reservoir
> EK Laing DDC-Pump 12V DDC-1Plus
> EK-VGA IO Bracket For HD7970
> EK-FC7970 Backplate
> 2 x HW Labs Black Ice GTX M92 - 92 millimeter Radiator - Black
> 4 meters x PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing White 3/8ID 5/8OD
> 10 x Enzotech Compression Fitting G 1/4 Thread - for 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD Tubing
> 4 x Koolance NZL-LXG1 Black 90 Degree Swivelling Elbow Bend
> 2 x Arctic Cooling 92mm F9 Fan


great job! i had no idea it was possible to fit a liquid rig into such a small case... what kind of temps are you getting?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case


Some people either have no money to build them or they're too lazy to worry bout it.









LOTS of people have a drain though.


Spoiler: My setup...










































~Ceadder


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> great job! i had no idea it was possible to fit a liquid rig into such a small case... what kind of temps are you getting?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> im not seeker. but i got in contact with him before i started on this build. he's done an x58 version of this system before and, credit where due, his build was much better than mine.
> 
> <60degrees on GPU
> <72degrees on CPU


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


ah, sorry. i must have accidentally skipped over the post... thanks for the quote.


----------



## solar0987

Under construction







new z-77 board, finally a ssd a m4 128 gb also snuck in there!


----------



## Aventadoor

I think its much cleaner to just buy QCs and then use those to drain the loop.
Instead of having dead end tube in the system


----------



## Eyedea

Really? Quick disconnects spoil the look of a loop imo. My drain valve is completely out of sight in the bottom compartment of my TJ07


----------



## DaClownie

Order complete... will order the parts tomorrow morning from the egg... just to wait for IB on monday


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*


I love AreoCool Shark FAN w/ led lights...



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case


WC Rig owners have various strategies for draining.

I didn't want a inline-T in my rig at all, but using Radiator's another G1/4 plug look like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






for drain.

no need a inline-"T" for me..


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Order complete... will order the parts
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> tomorrow morning from the egg... just to wait for IB on monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL
> 
> 
> ]


this cart is similar to mine, but i have a rad, and no fans.
i think im gonna get the back plate from dwood


im considering this layout

pump:bottom
res: middle
rads:top and far right

EDIT:
ill also get 10ft. clear primochill tubing, and Mayhems Aurora dye


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love AreoCool Shark FAN w/ led lights...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> WC Rig owners have various strategies for draining.
> 
> I didn't want a inline-T in my rig at all, but using Radiator's another G1/4 plug look like this
> 
> for drain.
> 
> no need a inline-"T" for me..
Click to expand...

You'll want your drain at the lowest point in your loop. Is that where you plan to mount your radiator to avoid the T?









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> this cart is similar to mine, but i have a rad, and no fans.
> i think im gonna get the back plate from dwood
> im considering this layout
> 
> pump:bottom
> res: middle
> rads:top and far right
> EDIT:
> ill also get 10ft. clear primochill tubing, and Mayhems Aurora dye


Why are you going CPU first? It would be more tubing efficient to go GPU > CPU > Rad.


----------



## CRosko42

Just finished installing my koolance vid-nx680 onto my 680. Been running a cpu only loop for a while and I was hoping the rx240 I have could handle the 680 for a few months until I pick up an ex360.

Running the following:

EK 250 Adv > 655 W/Bitspower Top > Koolance VID-NX680 > HF Supreme Ni plated > Rx240 (AP15s in pull)

Went through Heaven 3.0 and as of now I am looking at an idle temp on the gpu of 2-4 degrees above ambient (21-23C) and a load temp of around 35-37C.

CPU is sitting around 22-24 per core, 36-41C load temp.

For everyday gaming I am happy as can be. My cpu only went up a couple degrees with the GPU addition. GPU is loading ~30C lower and I only have the noise of 2 ap-15s, the two 140 fans my case came with which are silent as is my pump and psu.

Only issue was the clearance with my compression fitting on the gpu, had to go inlet/outlet both on the bottom because I didn't have an extender, ordered one and it should be hear monday so I can fix that one tube. My pump is up top until I get my other snake fitting and some more tubing, I don't like the way it looks, but it's alright for now. Tube from res>pump looks kinked in the picture, but it just the way the light hit it.

Also, anyone looking for easy lighting needs to look into the bitfenix alchemy led strips. Things are bright as hell and are much easier to deal with than the nzxt sleeved leds or cathodes. In the picture I have one 15 led strip right above my window, it has a detachable cable which makes it a viable placement and it works out great imo.

Not the best picture but my phone is all I have:


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Why are you going CPU first? It would be more tubing efficient to go GPU > CPU > Rad.


i heard it was better for temps to go CPU first


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> i heard it was better for temps to go CPU first


really? so having the rad at the end of the loop if you only have the one?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Loop order has next to no affect on temps.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> i heard it was better for temps to go CPU first


Not really. On some rare occasion, it may have a slight increase in temps (cpu) but nothing dramatic. My loop maybe an exception with four gtx 480s. I have some new tube coming in and I can test this order: gpu(x4)> cpu, and see what kinda of temps I get. I'm currently running cpu>gpu(s) as its easier to plumb it this way, but I'm more than happy to test this theory with my hot fermis







.

edit: I'll run some tests tonight in the current order and then reverse it to see what happens. I just remembered I have a ton of spare tube that I can use


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not really. On some rare occasion, it may have a slight increase in temps (cpu) but nothing dramatic. My loop maybe an exception with four gtx 480s. I have some new tube coming in and I can test this order: gpu(x4)> cpu, and see what kinda of temps I get. I'm currently running cpu>gpu(s) as its easier to plumb it this way, but I'm more than happy to test this theory with my hot fermis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> edit: I'll run some tests tonight in the current order and then reverse it to see what happens. I just remembered I have a ton of spare tube that I can use


That would be interesting. Still, most people aren't fortunate enough to afford a quad SLI setup


----------



## OverSightX

Figured I would throw this in because I'm stuck at work for a bit still and bored.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> i heard it was better for temps to go CPU first
> 
> 
> 
> Not really. On some rare occasion, it may have a slight increase in temps (cpu) but nothing dramatic. My loop maybe an exception with four gtx 480s. I have some new tube coming in and I can test this order: gpu(x4)> cpu, and see what kinda of temps I get. I'm currently running cpu>gpu(s) as its easier to plumb it this way, but I'm more than happy to test this theory with my hot fermis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> edit: I'll run some tests tonight in the current order and then reverse it to see what happens. I just remembered I have a ton of spare tube that I can use
Click to expand...

you are awesome!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> That would be interesting. Still, most people aren't fortunate enough to afford a quad SLI setup


Its a budget quad setup







. you can also go with 470s







(ive seen a 9800 quad setup too). In most cases one or two gpu will not have much of an increase in temp. Three and you may see a few ticks more on the cpu but as I said its not dramatic nor will it hurt performance. But I would like to challenge this premise with this exception of mine







. But we're all correct, 99.99% of the builds out there, it won't affect your temps.


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its a budget quad setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . you can also go with 470s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (ive seen a 9800 quad setup too). In most cases one or two gpu will not have much of an increase in temp. Three and you may see a few ticks more on the cpu but as I said its not dramatic nor will it hurt performance. But I would like to challenge this premise with this exception of mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But we're all correct, 99.99% of the time it won't affect your temps.


I have mine GPU>CPU and didn't really notice any difference then when I had it the other way around. Of course I'm only running a measly dual card setup


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> I have mine GPU>CPU and didn't really notice any difference then when I had it the other way around. Of course I'm only running a measly dual card setup


Your cards are quite a bit cooler to run than my 480s. I had the pleasure of running three 6950/70s and their max temp (stock clocks) were in the low 40s. I also ran three 580s 3gb and they hovered in the upper 40s. These 480s will hover in the high 50s and sometimes dip to the mid 60s when really pushing the system and I have the fans in low speed (also, ambient a bit higher than normal, ie heater, etc). There's a reason why Nvidia has a grill on the stock gtx 480 cooler


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> EDIT:
> ill also get 10ft. clear primochill tubing, and Mayhems Aurora dye


don't, its meant for show, not cooling purposes. Mayhem has stated this himself


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> more pics


"PHENOMENAL COSMIC POWER... in an itty bitty living space."


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> EDIT:
> ill also get 10ft. clear primochill tubing, and Mayhems Aurora dye
> 
> 
> 
> don't, its meant for show, not cooling purposes. Mayhem has stated this himself
Click to expand...

have you seen my pc? Half of what i do is for show, like my sleeving right now


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> have you seen my pc? Half of what i do is for show, like my sleeving right now


I think he means you are supposed to use it for a couple weeks max and then swap to traditional coolant.

It's meant for a photo shoot or to show off your rig, but not for full time use.

Just basing this off what I read in a couple forum posts, I might be wrong.


----------



## phillyd

oh...weird...


----------



## superericla

Started sleeving my PSU with black paracord today. It's taking a long time but the results so far look great.


----------



## TheJesus

Someone will probably come in and argue that loop order matters, it just doesn't. I've tested it on multiple configurations from 4 GPUS + CPU to 1 CPU. The best change I've seen was a 2C drop across the board when adding a 240 rad between each of the GPUs, which is not worth it or realistic.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Someone will probably come in and argue that loop order matters, it just doesn't. I've tested it on multiple configurations from 4 GPUS + CPU to 1 CPU. The best change I've seen was a 2C drop across the board when adding a 240 rad between each of the GPUs, which is not worth it or realistic.


someone always does lol i stick with the theory of "do whatever works for your set up" - shortest lines and clean looking


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Someone will probably come in and argue that loop order matters, it just doesn't. I've tested it on multiple configurations from 4 GPUS + CPU to 1 CPU. The best change I've seen was a 2C drop across the board when adding a 240 rad between each of the GPUs, which is not worth it or realistic.


if the jesus says it, it must be true!
im jp, but you're the second person to say that, and i believe you all!
so i guess ill go straight to the gpu, then to the cpu, top 240, front 120, res, pump


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> someone always does lol i stick with the theory of "do whatever works for your set up" - *shortest lines and clean looking*


This is the best approach. As TJ said, there maybe a difference but don't expect a huge difference.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> got new fittings... and maybe motherboard


That's beautiful. I just got my Z77 Sabertooth in today. I will install this next monday, but can hardly wait!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> got new fittings... and maybe motherboard


id paint the thermal armor red!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> id paint the thermal armor red!


I think it's already got the perfect balance of black and red, personally.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I think it's already got the perfect balance of black and red, personally.


Werd. Anymore red and it would be overdoing it.


----------



## phillyd

hmm...i just think theres gotta be something to do with all that plastic


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I think it's already got the perfect balance of black and red, personally.
> 
> 
> 
> Werd. Anymore red and it would be overdoing it.
Click to expand...

I dunno. I think that if you do more red you have to know when enuff is enuff. I think it could use a little more red myself, but you gotta be able to keep yourself in check when you do it.









~Ceadder :drunk:


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> got new fittings... and maybe motherboard


im just wondering how much you like those monsoons. im thinking about picking up some green ones to replace my barbs XP


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> im just wondering how much you like those monsoons. im thinking about picking up some green ones to replace my barbs XP


I have monsoons myself and they are great. Ive tried pulling a tube out with them on and couldn't do it, and they look great considering they are one of the cheapest compression fittings out there.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Looks like dangerden is going to make a fortune off of these fittings since. Finally reasonable compression fittings. It's a great alternative to barbs at their price. Seems that the best choices now are either the monsoons for nearly every build unless it's a cost is no issue build then bitspower. I'll definitely be using them in my Mountain Mods rebuild. Price point is definitely right.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea, I used a pair of cutters and just snipped through a hose and bam, it started draining...
> Next random question... I'm using 7/16"x5/8" hoses on 1/2" fat boy barbs... what size clamps do I want? 5/8" OD hoses? Last time I used wire ties, but I'd like this to be a bit more clean this time around


I wouldn't even worry about clamps... I run the same tubing size and same barbs and run clampless. The only clamps I have are on a temp setup where I have a line going out of the case and didn't want it to get tripped over.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Looks like dangerden is going to make a fortune off of these fittings since. Finally reasonable compression fittings. It's a great alternative to barbs at their price. Seems that the best choices now are either the monsoons for nearly every build unless it's a cost is no issue build then bitspower. I'll definitely be using them in my Mountain Mods rebuild. Price point is definitely right.


they're still nearly $7 a piece


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> they're still nearly $7 a piece


No one said water cooling was cheap


----------



## Ceadderman

Cheap? $8 a fitting ain't cheap. Oddly enough one of the most expensive manufacturers(EK) are pretty cheap at $6.50 for 1/2" x 3/4". Monsoons are gonna have to be out for awhile longer before the price becomes a bit more realistic for this guy. Still Monsoons are reasonable for a new entrant in the Water Cooling market.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

yeah theres some xspc for $3


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> yeah theres some xspc for $3


but sadly they're xspc, the kia of watercooling. Although it really doesn't make a difference unless you're going for 3/4 tubing and need rotaries. Koolance ones are the most disappointing tho. Can't count the amount that I've had rust after I've taken them out of a rig, especially the quick disconnects.


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Cheap? $8 a fitting ain't cheap. Oddly enough one of the most expensive manufacturers(EK) are pretty cheap at $6.50 for 1/2" x 3/4". Monsoons are gonna have to be out for awhile longer before the price becomes a bit more realistic for this guy. Still Monsoons are reasonable for a new entrant in the Water Cooling market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


FrozenCPU sells them in sets of 6 for $36, which is $6 a pop. Not a bad deal if you ask me.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No one said water cooling was cheap


Barbs + spring hose clamps FTW!


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> yeah theres some xspc for $3
> 
> 
> 
> but sadly they're xspc, the kia of watercooling. Although it really doesn't make a difference unless you're going for 3/4 tubing and need rotaries. Koolance ones are the most disappointing tho. Can't count the amount that I've had rust after I've taken them out of a rig, especially the quick disconnects.
Click to expand...

xspc makes quality products last time I checked, and unless koi lance blocks are made of iron, it's impossible for them to rust. it's probably corrosion of their nickel plating.


----------



## phillyd

this cart is ridiculous tho...


the cost, and i need tubing and dye.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> xspc makes quality products last time I checked, and unless koi lance blocks are made of iron, it's impossible for them to rust. it's probably corrosion of their nickel plating.


They do make "quality" but can't be compared to Aquacomputer/MIPS/ EK/ koolance in the block department. The Raystorm is good, but for larger chips not so much. Biggest quality difference is between XSPC dual bar res vs the Koolance dual bay res. It happens on the threading since they are plated and the compression part wears away at the plating.


----------



## wermad

XPSC is not known for quality. They are known for best performance for you money. Now I will say the Raystorm was definitely a push in the right direction but there's a reason why they tend to be priced well.

I have been tempted to go with xspc fittings but I have a ton of Phobya fittings and though they're not superbly made, they work quite well.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> XPSC is not known for quality. They are known for best performance for you money. Now I will say the Raystorm was definitely a push in the right direction but there's a reason why they tend to be priced well.
> I have been tempted to go with xspc fittings but I have a ton of Phobya fittings and though they're not superbly made, they work quite well.


Don't ever get alphacool ones. They flake like no other and have burrs everywhere. Couldn't even tell the copper fittings were copper after you were done installing since all of the plating ended up on the floor. (obviously a gross exaggeration)


----------



## OverSightX

I have the Monsoon fittings and I personally think they're great. I picked up a couple of the 6pcks from Frozen. Look good, cheap enough and easily installed. No leaks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Don't ever get alphacool ones. They flake like no other and have burrs everywhere. Couldn't even tell the copper fittings were copper after you were done installing since all of the plating ended up on the floor. (obviously a gross exaggeration)


Phobyas aren't bad, but it does show they are mid-range fittings and not high end ones. By all means they aren't super cheap. What I do love is the price and the 3/8x1/2 fittings fit just about anywhere.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Phobyas aren't bad, but it does show they are mid-range fittings and not high end ones. By all means they aren't super cheap. What I do love is the price and the 3/8x1/2 fittings fit just about anywhere.


3/8, 1/2 is great since it cuts out the need for rotaries in nearly all situations. The flowrate also isn't that much lower so to hinder performance. Rotaries are absurdly priced for seemingly no reason. Hopefully swiftech will get theirs released soon so to lower them overall.


----------



## SinX7

Oh no! So XSPC G1/4 7/16 compression fittings is not good? D:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Oh no! So XSPC G1/4 7/16 compression fittings is not good? D:


They should be fine. Just do some routine checks if you have any reservations. Most of the nickel plating done by *most* companies is pretty sturdy to last for a while.


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They should be fine. Just do some routine checks if you have any reservations. Most of the nickel plating done by *most* companies is pretty sturdy to last for a while.


What do you recommend for compression fittings then? I have the 7/16 tubing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No one said water cooling was cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barbs + spring hose clamps FTW!
Click to expand...

Not even a contest. Compressions although a bit more spensive are better. Cleaner looking unless your cuts are so perfect(some WC'ers have laser precision cuts) but for the most part Compressions are leak free. 1st timers should go with compression fittings imho being a first timer and having both in my setup. Just make sure to have rubber finger cots on hand. Makes loosening and tightening these things much better when you have some grip.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> I have the Monsoon fittings and I personally think they're great. I picked up a couple of the 6pcks from Frozen. Look good, cheap enough and easily installed. No leaks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuadm424*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Cheap? $8 a fitting ain't cheap. Oddly enough one of the most expensive manufacturers(EK) are pretty cheap at $6.50 for 1/2" x 3/4". Monsoons are gonna have to be out for awhile longer before the price becomes a bit more realistic for this guy. Still Monsoons are reasonable for a new entrant in the Water Cooling market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenCPU sells them in sets of 6 for $36, which is $6 a pop. Not a bad deal if you ask me.
Click to expand...

Problem for me is that Frozen jacks up their shipping cost to make it up on the back end. So it's Performance-PCs' who charge a tad more $39 for 1/2 x 3/4. In either case it's gonna be half dozen of one or half dozen of the other in my shorts so they're still more spendy than EK fittings which imho look stunning. Would like Monsoons but can't see paying more than what I have on fittings. EK were proven fittings(based on the amount of owners when I first started) so I went with them over the cheaper XSPC, Phobya fittings. I only have one XSPC fitting and that's the one from my Res to Pump connection. But honestly had PPCs' had all the EK fittings(i.e. 90s', 45s' and adapter fittings) I probably woulda went all EK. Sometimes you just get stuck having to use another manufacturer's fittings.









Would LOVE to have Monsoons though cause they're hella sharp looking. Hell I'm the guy that alerted everyone here to them back when they first came out. I was seriously impressed with how clean and well thought out they are.









~Ceadder


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love AreoCool Shark FAN w/ led lights...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> WC Rig owners have various strategies for draining.
> 
> I didn't want a inline-T in my rig at all, but using Radiator's another G1/4 plug look like this
> 
> for drain.
> 
> no need a inline-"T" for me..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll want your drain at the lowest point in your loop. Is that where you plan to mount your radiator to avoid the T?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Ceadderman, I would mount a rad in front. whenever I surely *put it in bathtub*, unmount it from front for drain quickly & access easy. I don't have Multi-tubes in WC HAF X, then not need the "T".









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They should be fine. Just do some routine checks if you have any reservations. Most of the nickel plating done by *most* companies is pretty sturdy to last for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you recommend for compression fittings then? I have the 7/16 tubing.
Click to expand...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> What do you recommend for compression fittings then? I have the 7/16 tubing.


Really depends on how much you want to spend. If you are on a budget, xspc is a good choice as well a few other brands. If you can spend a bit more, Monsoons are uber popular right now so that would be my choice


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Ceadderman, I would mount a rad in front. whenever I surely *put it in bathtub* and unmount this from front, if drain necessarily. HAF X has soo plenty space, then not need "T".


Thanks for that chart!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Really depends on how much you want to spend. If you are on a budget, xspc is a good choice as well a few other brands. If you can spend a bit more, Monsoons are uber popular right now so that would be my choice


Ahh. Well I am on budget right now so I can upgrade my CPU & Mobo. But in the next couple months, I'll probably upgrade if the compression fitting starts to fail on me.

Now I can't wait to assemble my loop!









Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Thanks for that chart!
> Ahh. Well I am on budget right now so I can upgrade my CPU & Mobo. But in the next couple months, I'll probably upgrade if the compression fitting starts to fail on me.
> Now I can't wait to assemble my loop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I know xspc has good customer service. If the fittings fail for some reason, they can replacement for you. I'm sure they will perform great


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I know xspc has good customer service. If the fittings fail for some reason, they can replacement for you. I'm sure they will perform great


Good to know about their CS!







Can't wait to start building that loop.!


----------



## ShortAlieN

Nobody likes BitsPower









I do. I love my bitspower fittings.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Nobody likes BitsPower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do. I love my bitspower fittings.


Everyone likes Bitspower, except the price.


----------



## ShortAlieN

They only cost like $.50 more than the monsoon fittings though...


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> They only cost like $.50 more than the monsoon fittings though...


Buy the Monsoons in 6-packs for $6.50 each...


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They should be fine. Just do some routine checks if you have any reservations. Most of the nickel plating done by *most* companies is pretty sturdy to last for a while.


XSPC uses black *chrome*, not *nickel*. Swiftech blocks are chrome plated, and their plating is most excellent.
I don't see anything wrong with these fittings.

New Swiftech fittings may also be a good option if you like the looks.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Nobody likes BitsPower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do. I love my bitspower fittings.


Ya there nice but over priced.... And there are so may decent options out there that It really does not make any scene to buy bitspower imo.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalbard*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They should be fine. Just do some routine checks if you have any reservations. Most of the nickel plating done by *most* companies is pretty sturdy to last for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC uses black *chrome*, not *nickel*. Swiftech blocks are chrome plated, and their plating is most excellent.
> I don't see anything wrong with these fittings.
> 
> New Swiftech fittings may also be a good option if you like the looks.
Click to expand...

Chrome IS nickel.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Nobody likes BitsPower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do. I love my bitspower fittings.


Look at me....i´m the Bitspower Hater No. 1 in the World !
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
NOT !


----------



## DefJux

Lian li pc343 and mora3 rad. i7 2700k+gtx 680sli

Using photo bucket... seems easier...

http://photobucket.com/PC343

Too much Di-noc??









Best regards from Oslo, Norway!


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> Nobody likes BitsPower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do. I love my bitspower fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> Look at me....i´m the Bitspower Hater No. 1 in the World !
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> NOT !
Click to expand...

That's gotta be over $1000 in fittings. How the hell, good sir.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Chrome IS nickel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Chrome and Nickel are completely different....

Anyway,talking of chrome....










only another 12 more sections to bend...
OOOOOH YEAH!!!


----------



## Aventadoor

Thats gonne be a sick build.


----------



## bundymania

@DaClownie: More than 2000.......Euros at all for my Bitspower Collection, i checked prices at highflow.nl







.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> More than 2000.......Euros at all for my Bitspower Collection, i checked prices at highflow.nl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I take it you get this stuff handed to you?









That makes me so jelly! :/


----------



## jackeyjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> @DaClownie: More than 2000.......Euros at all for my Bitspower Collection, i checked prices at highflow.nl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Mother of freaking god. So many fittings there


----------



## bundymania

Yeah, thanks to Bitspower, they supported many Projects and Reviews from me !


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Niiiiiiccceee!!!!: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Chrome and Nickel are completely different....
> Anyway,talking of chrome....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only another 12 more sections to bend...
> OOOOOH YEAH!!!






Nice job! I'd like to do that with my next WC build! Teach Me!!!


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DefJux*
> 
> Lian li pc343 and mora3 rad. i7 2700k+gtx 680sli
> Using photo bucket... seems easier...
> http://photobucket.com/PC343
> Too much Di-noc??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards from Oslo, Norway!


wow!
That would have to be one of the best looking systems i have seen!


----------



## phillyd

m3 di-noc


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Chrome IS nickel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Actually Chrome is Chromium, and Nickel is Nickel. They are different elements.

Nickel plating uses Nickel sulfate and Nickel chloride to plate the base metal. Chrome is commonly plated on top of Nickel or Copper for better adhesion and durability but it is not the same thing as Nickel. Chrome plating uses Chromium Chloride solution.

Chrome is harder than Nickel so it wears better but at thin layers Nickel is better at corrosion resistance.


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha okay guys, I think I was being taken litterally. I shoulda put my fingers crossed smiley up.

>









@B Neg... is that a fabricated connection from your CPU block to CPU block? You make that yourself or did you get it like that?







:

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Haha okay guys, I think I was being taken litterally. I shoulda put my fingers crossed smiley up.
> 
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @B Neg... is that a fabricated connection from your CPU block to CPU block? You make that yourself or did you get it like that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> ~Ceadder


http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1229853

Completely fabricated by me,link above to my build log


----------



## skitzab1

just got some goodys for the storm fortress build











XSPC RAYSTORM (INTEL)



XSPC RAYSTORM INTEL ALUMINIUM BRACKET



LAING DDC-PUMP 12V DDC-1PLUS 18W X 2



WC DUAL DDC CASE LT



Hardware Labs Black Ice GTS 280 X 2



MAGICOOL EXTREME DUAL 180



NANO G-14 PWM BSE X 4



SILVERSTONE 180mm AIR PENETRATOR X 2

res tank not desided yet this has been purchesed and should be here in a few days


----------



## Nemesis429

Anyone got a picture of True Silver fittings on Silver Shining?

Cheers


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalbard*
> 
> XSPC uses black *chrome*, not *nickel*. Swiftech blocks are chrome plated, and their plating is most excellent.
> I don't see anything wrong with these fittings.
> New Swiftech fittings may also be a good option if you like the looks.


They also make a chrome version







Its been recent but their first fittings were black chrome initially. Thanks for clearing that up, they do use chrome not nickel plating. But makes me wonder if they are actually using nickel as a lot of ppl refer to a high shine nickel finish as chrome.



@Ceadderman, Nickel and Chrome plating are two different things









Rig update: some goodies came in


----------



## Bouf0010

need some opinions guys







im going be making a cover for my drive and HDD bays similar to the one you see at the bottom of the case. I cant decide if i should make it 2 pieces - the top one going over the lower one, kinda overlapping, Or just make one solid piece from top to bottom.


----------



## zoson

IMO, one solid piece will look way, way better.


----------



## mordocai rp

what are your guys' thoughts on an enzotech sapphire block?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> need some opinions guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im going be making a cover for my drive and HDD bays similar to the one you see at the bottom of the case. I cant decide if i should make it 2 pieces - the top one going over the lower one, kinda overlapping, Or just make one solid piece from top to bottom.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


One piece would match the bottom cover. I did an smoked acrylic cover that went from the top bays down to the hot swap bays.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Chrome and Nickel are completely different....
> Anyway,talking of chrome....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only another 12 more sections to bend...
> OOOOOH YEAH!!!


what fittings are you using for this?


----------



## FalloutBoy

I'd LOVE to see what silver fittings with red tube looks like. +rep to someone who shows me this?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*
> 
> I'd LOVE to see what silver fittings with red tube looks like. +rep to someone who shows me this?


hey hey, haven't seen you in a while mate









Silver fittings....hmmm....usually, you just need a couple of those. The Bits silver fittings have a tint of yellow, though I'm not sure if that's what they look like in person. Personally, I like polished nickel or chrome on contrasting tube or dye. Red tube and black fittings (or black chrome) look awesome too.


----------



## A.B.ZAMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> My rig!!!


Those fan r really fantastic...Can u give me detail about it...


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> what are your guys' thoughts on an enzotech sapphire block?


It's a good high flow block if you're on a budget. It excels in loops with many elements because of the low restriction. The mounting system is excellent.

Edit:
The barbs are too close together to use compression fittings, and even getting clamps on there with 1/2" tubing is very, very tight.
Also, the top is easily scratched.


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> need some opinions guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im going be making a cover for my drive and HDD bays similar to the one you see at the bottom of the case. I cant decide if i should make it 2 pieces - the top one going over the lower one, kinda overlapping, Or just make one solid piece from top to bottom.


definitely one solid piece


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*
> 
> I'd LOVE to see what silver fittings with red tube looks like. +rep to someone who shows me this?


Like this?


----------



## Dahlmann

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DefJux*
> 
> Lian li pc343 and mora3 rad. i7 2700k+gtx 680sli
> Using photo bucket... seems easier...
> http://photobucket.com/PC343
> Too much Di-noc??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards from Oslo, Norway!


Holy s**t !

You got any build log for that amazing rig?


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> hey hey, haven't seen you in a while mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silver fittings....hmmm....usually, you just need a couple of those. The Bits silver fittings have a tint of yellow, though I'm not sure if that's what they look like in person. Personally, I like polished nickel or chrome on contrasting tube or dye. Red tube and black fittings (or black chrome) look awesome too.


I have heaps of bits silver fittings already (aswell as black) but I just wanted to know how they'd look on red tubing. I have 2 loops and am trying to figure out if I should do one red and one black loop...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> Like this?


Why thankyou kind sir. +rep.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*
> 
> I have heaps of bits silver fittings already (aswell as black) but I just wanted to know how they'd look on red tubing. I have 2 loops and am trying to figure out if I should do one red and one black loop...
> Why thankyou kind sir. +rep.


Wow, that's a lot of silver fittings. Or are you referring to nickel or chrome fittings? Bits does make a "true silver" fitting that you can use in lieu of say, a kill.coil.


----------



## DaClownie

Anyone know of any good radiator fans that light up blue? I'm currently using Yate Loon High speed fans, no lights. Considering going with some blue LED ones... I'll have to see once I put the rig together how I feel about the lighting.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Anyone know of any good radiator fans that light up blue? I'm currently using Yate Loon High speed fans, no lights. Considering going with some blue LED ones... I'll have to see once I put the rig together how I feel about the lighting.


Yate Loon DS12SH-12C come in Blue LED. You can get them from Sidewinder, Jab-Tech(?) and Performance-PCs for ~$4 each when you drop the sleeving option @ PPCs' and less when you buy in bulk from Sidewinder and possibly JT. JT used to carry them, but I'm not so sure now.









~Ceadder


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, that's a lot of silver fittings. Or are you referring to nickel or chrome fittings? Bits does make a "true silver" fitting that you can use in lieu of say, a kill.coil.


Just the silver shining bits fittings. I think they're just brass with chrome plating. I use barbs too because they're cheaper and I like the look better.


----------



## Da1Nonly

Well seeing all the awesome builds mine doesnt look as great but here it is.








So am I worthy to join?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*
> 
> Just the silver shining bits fittings. I think they're just brass with chrome plating. I use barbs too because they're cheaper and I like the look better.


Yeah, its a bit misleading but they're not "silver", just nickel or chrome plated brass (and sometimes copper) fittings. I used run them in my MM build with red tube:


----------



## ShortAlieN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Da1Nonly*
> 
> Well seeing all the awesome builds mine doesnt look as great but here it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So am I worthy to join?


That's a helluva good start. If you put some time into that case it would look most excellent. A little black paint, couple of wire management holes and BAM! you got yourself a top notch build.


----------



## Da1Nonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> That's a helluva good start. If you put some time into that case it would look most excellent. A little black paint, couple of wire management holes and BAM! you got yourself a top notch build.


Thanks! Yeah black paint is the next project. I removed the hard drive cages below and put a 360mm rad down there...No pictures...Still messy down there







Then sleeving the cables and then better cable management. Case is so big cables dont reach.


----------



## mr.derp

Cables are fine if you ask me, just maybe tidy them up with zip ties


----------



## Boweezie

First WC Build. YAY


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Anyone know of any good radiator fans that light up blue? I'm currently using Yate Loon High speed fans, no lights. Considering going with some blue LED ones... I'll have to see once I put the rig together how I feel about the lighting.


Shark fan EDITION, *link 1* . in store FRYS selling AeroCool FAN /w led lights 12cm ($8) and 14cm ($10).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> First WC Build. YAY


Grats, welcome to WC rig family!


----------



## phillyd

another edit on my cart, might pick up a used black ice 120 rad for $13 shipped instead.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> another edit on my cart, might pick up a used black ice 120 rad for $13 shipped instead.


One rad to cool your cpu and gpu?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> another edit on my cart, might pick up a used black ice 120 rad for $13 shipped instead.


Go with the Black Ice 120. I have the GT Stealth 360 and with my Medium Silents undervolted to 75% I'm currently running 35c while Folding. Solid performing Radiator imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fear of Oneself

I re did my loop today to make room for another power supply and optimize air flow. However, I used soap on the inside of the cooling lines so that they would slide onto my pump inlet and outlet (very tight)

However, it seems as if a little glob slid into the pump without me noticing. As soon as I bled the lines I noticed the milky look didn't disappear, it stayed. And if I turn my system off, foam accumulates in my res.

It's not that big of a deal, doesn't bother my aesthetically, but would having soapy...ish water hurt any of the components? This is liquid hand soap btw


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*
> 
> I re did my loop today to make room for another power supply and optimize air flow. However, I used soap on the inside of the cooling lines so that they would slide onto my pump inlet and outlet (very tight)
> However, it seems as if a little glob slid into the pump without me noticing. As soon as I bled the lines I noticed the milky look didn't disappear, it stayed. And if I turn my system off, foam accumulates in my res.
> It's not that big of a deal, doesn't bother my aesthetically, but would having soapy...ish water hurt any of the components? This is liquid hand soap btw


I'm pretty sure I've seen people use a little soap before.

Also, your avatar is awesome


----------



## wermad

Ok, so I finally ran my little test to see if there was a difference running cpu> gpu vs gpu>cpu (IBT + Furmark, cpu @ 4.6 and stock clocks on gpus).

First: Cpu> gpu x4

Core temps ranged from 54-60°c

Second: gpu x4 > cpu

Core temps ranged from 58-64°c

All runs were done with all fans in their lowest speed (~1-2v)

Please note:

-This is a brief test as I'm not a huge fan of running IBT and Furmark simultaneous (especially with 480s








), so don't ask for more runs to find an average








-I did allow the system to cool off with all fans at maximum for 15 minutes before doing the second run.
-This was a test to see if *four* gtx 480s can make a difference. Regardless of how big or small.
-Does a difference of 3-4°c mean anything? To me, *no*. And tbh, it really should lay to rest this old myth of order of blocks.
-You would have to throw in four mad hot cards to create any significant difference in loop order and therefore give a small shred of support of "loop order does matter".
-This will *not* apply to 99% of all water coolers in my opinion.
-Most people won't care for the very small difference.

Conclusion: *loop order doesn't really matter 99.99% of the time.* But, if you have happen to be in that 0.01% bracket and are super anal about squeezing that last bit of thermal performance from your loop, have your choice.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah doubt soap would do anything to the pump, but you might flush and fill a couple times to get as much of it out to be on the safe side.









I too love that Avvy. Awesome stuff. I don't mind Intel, but you reap what you sow if you badmouthed AMD and shunned BD.









~Ceadder


----------



## TonyGrunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> First WC Build. YAY


Your first RAM DIMM from the left isn't locked in. Better fix it before it drops out.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TonyGrunt*
> 
> Your first RAM DIMM from the left isn't locked in. Better fix it before it drops out.


Lol, yeah you never know that there might be an earthquake and your ram falls out. The horror!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Lol, yeah you never know that there might be an earthquake and your ram falls out. The horror!


It needs a hammer for optimal lock down,4lb should do it.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Lol, yeah you never know that there might be an earthquake and your ram falls out. The horror!


Or it shorts and ruins the whole board, but you know.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Lol, yeah you never know that there might be an earthquake and your ram falls out. The horror!
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a hammer for optimal lock down,4lb should do it.
Click to expand...

Machinists ball peen should do the job quite nicely.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

To be on the safe side, I'd recommend:


----------



## DefJux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahlmann*
> 
> Holy s**t !
> You got any build log for that amazing rig?


thanks! no build log...probably should have made one. Next build maybe


----------



## skitzab1

!!! i have what i think is a very big surprise coming !!!!


----------



## andygoyap




----------



## bah73

My watercooled 600T gaming pc. There are a few pics so I put them in the spoiler tab.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



[]


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice rig bah73, I really like...everything. And you have a cool Computer Room too (saw it on the Official Computer Room pics)

*General Question to everyone !*

I'm seeing more and more filters in people's loops. Should I add one in mine or its not really necessary?


----------



## bah73

Thanks KaRLiToS, If you are refering your question to mine as well its actually a flow meter not a filter.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One rad to cool your cpu and gpu?


I have a 240 in my loop already! Theyre gonna cool awesomely


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bah73*
> 
> My watercooled 600T gaming pc. There are a few pics so I put them in the spoiler tab.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> []


----------



## mironccr345

^^









@bah73 Nice rig!


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap*


^^

Just sayin', I know a lot of people are against water cooling RAM, VRMs, and Chipsets. I know it's just added restriction and isn't really worth the cost of all the blocks and fittings.

But can anyone tell me that it doesn't look amazing?!


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygoyap*


man i love blue evan thow people say its over used i will always love blue nice job man


----------



## PeteJM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, its a bit misleading but they're not "silver", just nickel or chrome plated brass (and sometimes copper) fittings. I used run them in my MM build with red tube:


Trying to figure out how your loop is run made my brain actually pause for a moment. I thought a giant rotating beach ball appeared as well, but it turned out someone was just watching a video with flashy lights across from me...


----------



## Carniflex

Compression rotaries are not THAT expensive if you are willing to mix them a bit. Got mine for something like 0.9 to 1.6 euros a piece but mix of colors few blacks, several copper ones and couple of silvery ones from Aquatuning - whatever was fitting and happened to be at discount. Thats for 8/10mm tubing as they were the cheapest, larger ones go for a higher price indeed.

No pictures yet - still waiting for my shipment and even after that will take a while to mod the case assemble the thing. It will not look good at all I would imagine - same as my motorcycles







I'm man of function over looks most of the time and few dents here or there do not prevent function usually


----------



## phillyd

thats the thing, why get compressions if not for looks?


----------



## Carniflex

Easier to take apart if needed I think. With barbs reattaching the hose afterwards does not seem as reliable. And my system will be mobile carried arond twice a day so I feel I need all the connection reliabilty I can get in this regard.

Edit: I think I should clarify - I'm not planning to deattach the tubing twice a day - I'm panning to carry the whole thing, however I had an impression that compressions are harder to mess up, especially when doing it first time. Now throw in the vibration and small deformations when dragging the stuff around and they just seemed better idea. Especially considering that they were not that much more expensive. And I'm not opposed to good looks so if I do happen to have some spare time I might paint em (outside) for uniform looks or perhaps electrolyte some suitable layer (say - copper or silver perhaps) on them. Electrolyting is not that hard takes just a small battery, few wires, solution and chunk of suitable metal for making the coating.


----------



## _^MeRcY

Hey guys, I had a question regarding cooling a 2500k and a gtx580. I have a 600t from my last build and will use it for my new build and was wondering if one 240 radiator and a 200 phobey is enough to cool a 2500k and one gtx580?


----------



## Fear of Oneself

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I've seen people use a little soap before.
> Also, your avatar is awesome


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah doubt soap would do anything to the pump, but you might flush and fill a couple times to get as much of it out to be on the safe side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I too love that Avvy. Awesome stuff. I don't mind Intel, but you reap what you sow if you badmouthed AMD and shunned BD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks, and thanks.

I'll look into it after the weekend, I'm going to be out of town.

The reservoir looks like a bubble bath.


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> thats the thing, why get compressions if not for looks?


I have them so I can clean out my loop without having to buy new tubing. With barbs I always used zip ties to secure them, but the problem with this is that when i removed the tubing a lot of the time I'd end up cutting the tubing or the zip tie would puncture the tubing were it hugged the barb.

Compression fittings are just easier to use in this respect.

I use XSPC fittings, which are still more expensive than barbed fittings, but are more reasonably priced.


----------



## phillyd

yeah id get the XSPC if it werent for the lack of colors


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_^MeRcY*
> 
> Hey guys, I had a question regarding cooling a 2500k and a gtx580. I have a 600t from my last build and will use it for my new build and was wondering if one 240 radiator and a 200 phobey is enough to cool a 2500k and one gtx580?


Yes, the 240 and 200 will cool that without issue. You could likely run either the 240 OR 200 and also work pretty well.


----------



## driftingforlife

Got my rig apart atm, testing to see if the problem is my GPU or mobo. Gunna redo the GPU loop while im at it. Duel loop makes life so much easier.


----------



## _^MeRcY

Great thank you. I was thinking and that I might just go ahead and pick up a Cosmos II and set up a 360 with 240 with 360 cooling the 2500k and 240 cooling solely the GTX580. My main concern is if I pick up say a Swiftech MCP350, will that pump solely be able to push enough for both rads or do I need another pump?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_^MeRcY*
> 
> Hey guys, I had a question regarding cooling a 2500k and a gtx580. I have a 600t from my last build and will use it for my new build and was wondering if one 240 radiator and a 200 phobey is enough to cool a 2500k and one gtx580?


yeah you ll be just fine with a good set of fans, i have an RX480 for a 2600k and 2 580s (ram and vrms blocks are negligable) and my temps are great









as for your pump, rads are barely restrictive so youll be just fine


----------



## _^MeRcY

Great thanks! Should I scale it down with one 360 and one 120 instead and save some money and room?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_^MeRcY*
> 
> Great thanks! Should I scale it down with one 360 and one 120 instead and save some money and room?


well with more rad youll be able to run lower speed fans which = less noise. Plus if you ever plan on adding a 2nd 580, and you plan on overclocking youll have the head room available.


----------



## skitzab1

hay guys was wondering if anyone has any idears on how i can make hosing like a candy cane iv got a few idears but yer


----------



## (sic)

^white tube w/ red anti kink coils.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> ^white tube w/ red anti kink coils.


iv thirt of that but its to ezy !!!! keep thinking


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> ^white tube w/ red anti kink coils.
> 
> 
> 
> iv thirt of that but its to ezy !!!! keep thinking
Click to expand...

Red UV reactive tubing with super thin, carefully wrapped Teflon Tape around the tube.


----------



## (sic)

I suppose you could steer clear of the normal candy cane colors or are you wanting red and white?


----------



## Castscythe

i saw a thread awhile back about someone dying the exterior of his tubing... but i dont remember where is saw it =S... if you could dig that up, you could try that


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeteJM*
> 
> Trying to figure out how your loop is run made my brain actually pause for a moment. I thought a giant rotating beach ball appeared as well, but it turned out someone was just watching a video with flashy lights across from me...


Its an old MM build. The loop went: res >pump#1>RS360>GTX470>RS360>GTX470> res
pump#2>RS360>mb>cpu>res

It was a "semi" dual loop as both loops shared the same Koolance reservoir.


----------



## RushMore1205

got some new toys in the mail today,










and on top of that my girlfriends dad own a printing company and he got me a gift too, that is just amazing


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> got some new toys in the mail today,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Rush Zone!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and on top of that my girlfriends dad own a printing company and he got me a gift too, that is just amazing


That is some serious secsiness goin up on that wall Rush.









I just ordered my 2nd DDC-1T from bmav. Can't wait to install it in my Dual DDC top.









bmav pumps FTW!!!









You got some serious firepower on the shelf though brutha. You buildin another build or stockin for client builds?









Soon as PhotoB gets their head out of their butt, I'ma upload some pics and be postin them soon.









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Here's an update from the Monsoon makers on the angles and QD's as of today:

"_Will still be at least 20 days to manufacture and ship once they order. Also some question if we are going to do all four sizes out of the gate, and how many colors to start. It is a LOT of capital to lay out all in one shot. I will post some images and info once the resellers decide.

On the QD's. I was wondering how much of a premium you guys place on flow losses compared to other design factors. For example, if I can do a design with absolute zero flow restriction but the fluid loss when you disconnect is five or six drops instead of one or two how does that balance for you? If the disconnect is a is a 45 to 60 second process...call it a "sort of quick" disconnect is that a big deal? "_

Source: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?278573-Monsoon-Free-Center-Compression-Fittings/page15

Provided retailers order them by next week, that's right around pay day for me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm gonna keep an eye on the QD situation if he can get them out in colors(or at least Black) I would seriously think about it. KLs' are shiny nickel and pricey which one by itself is not too bad. Together that was the deal breaker. AND they're huge.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aventadoor

A couple pix !
Next week I will get the 2 UT60 radiators so that will be awsm







Finally I can "fill" the case up!
For those who wonder, the case is almost 84cm from floor


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That is some serious secsiness goin up on that wall Rush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered my 2nd DDC-1T from bmav. Can't wait to install it in my Dual DDC top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bmav pumps FTW!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got some serious firepower on the shelf though brutha. You buildin another build or stockin for client builds?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soon as PhotoB gets their head out of their butt, I'ma upload some pics and be postin them soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


stocking up mainly, I'm have been trying to finish the Seahorse Companion Cube build but i have been so slammed at work i don't have time for anything but buy things







yes i have a problem

but i have a tj07 sitting here with 6 core goodness so i can't wait to start on that


----------



## GAMERIG

I recently received 140mm Radiator by mail! wow, shipped so fast!


thank to *HEATSINK FACTORY*...

I need your little help which one of best routine -

1) Pump/Resevoir Combo>SR1 240>CPU>CG140>Pump/Resevoir Combo

2) Pump/Resevoir Combo>SR1 240>CG140>CPU>Pump/Resevoir Combo

3) Pump/Resevoir Combo>CG140>SR1 240>CPU>Pump/Resevoir Combo


----------



## phillyd

what do you think i should use for tube cutting? is the danger den cutter good for the price?


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> what do you think i should use for tube cutting? is the danger den cutter good for the price?


I use a very sharp scissor! Works good I think. Ive only builded 2 watercooling loops without even leak testing them and no leaks yet, so I cant complain


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> what do you think i should use for tube cutting? is the danger den cutter good for the price?


You know I found that this works awesome and was pretty reasonable since they give you two with the set...

*
*example piece not actually used for loop.

You cannot beat a good bread/carving knife. Just cut easy and it's through the work in no time and the cuts are wicked straight. Make sure you secure your work though. Makes all the difference in the world.









~Ceadder


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> what do you think i should use for tube cutting? is the danger den cutter good for the price?


DD cutter is awesome. I got one with their Dreamflex tubing and I love it.


----------



## adam-c

gonna be putting my cpu on water next month and my gpu shortly after that and i was wondering how these parts are looking and if they are all compatible


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam-c*
> 
> gonna be putting my cpu on water next month and my gpu shortly after that and i was wondering how these parts are looking and if they are all compatible
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks great man, nice choice of parts







looks like you did some research


----------



## adam-c

I was also reading that when some people put the dress kits on their pumps it voids the warranty, so i looked on the aquacomputer website and couldnt find anything about it. Do any of you know if it will void the warranty on this pump?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> what do you think i should use for tube cutting? is the danger den cutter good for the price?


Cigar cutters work great!


----------



## duhasttas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> what do you think i should use for tube cutting? is the danger den cutter good for the price?


It is garbage for 3/4 OD tubing, and you'll probably end up cutting yourself and not the tubing when it breaks on you







. Just get yourself an X-Acto knife and it'll cut through the tubing like a hot knife through butter.


----------



## GAMERIG

You can buy Tubing cutter from Lowes, Home depot, OSH, ACE Hardware, hardware shop for $6 - 11.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhasttas*
> 
> It is garbage for 3/4 OD tubing, and you'll probably end up cutting yourself and not the tubing when it breaks on you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just get yourself an X-Acto knife and it'll cut through the tubing like a hot knife through butter.


I use what this guy suggests, seems to do the job just fine.


----------



## phillyd

I'm using 5/8 OD tubing on this one.
i have an exacto knife, if that doesnt work ill just go to home depot and get something.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam-c*
> 
> I was also reading that when some people put the dress kits on their pumps it voids the warranty, so i looked on the aquacomputer website and couldnt find anything about it. Do any of you know if it will void the warranty on this pump?


how would they ever know you had a dress kit on it??


----------



## RushMore1205

got a new case to mess with, going to be powder coated white in a couple of days







[/quote]


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam-c*
> 
> gonna be putting my cpu on water next month and my gpu shortly after that and i was wondering how these parts are looking and if they are all compatible


I don't see a top for pump ? This one on the list is just housing for pump : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27891 and this pump comes without a top : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33825


----------



## wermad

I use a pvc pipe cutter. Works great on all tube sizes:


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> DD cutter is awesome. I got one with their Dreamflex tubing and I love it.


I approve of this message... I have the exact same kit and cutting is as simple as pressing down on the blade to penetrate the hose, and twisting (the hose). You'll probably get one the cleanest cuts you've ever seen.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hmmm gonna keep an eye on the QD situation if he can get them out in colors(or at least Black) I would seriously think about it. KLs' are shiny nickel and pricey which one by itself is not too bad. Together that was the deal breaker. AND they're huge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can't think of a reason why I'd need a QD, but I guess having one connected to my loop wouldn't be a bad idea.


----------



## Aventadoor

If you have removeable motherboard tray I think its really a big hit to have QCs. Also when your gonne clean them radiators or have a bay res pump kombo
I think Koolance QCs looks kool if you ask me


----------



## adam-c

Quote:


> how would they ever know you had a dress kit on it??


im not sure thats why I was asking


----------



## adam-c

Quote:


> I don't see a top for pump ? This one on the list is just housing for pump : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27891 and this pump comes without a top : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33825


could you recommend me a top


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam-c*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see a top for pump ? This one on the list is just housing for pump : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27891 and this pump comes without a top : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33825
> 
> 
> 
> could you recommend me a top
Click to expand...

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/ek-d5-x-top-acetal-g1-4-rev-2.html

this is the one i have and ive had 0 issues with it

- i dunno if you can use a dress kit with it though


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam-c*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see a top for pump ? This one on the list is just housing for pump : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27891 and this pump comes without a top : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33825
> 
> 
> 
> could you recommend me a top
Click to expand...

I use this : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=24823 but any of these should also work fine :
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_771&products_id=30143
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27699
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_772&products_id=26481

Just pick one that you like, on D5 performance is pretty much same with any top. Some might not be compatible with your special housing though.


----------



## adam-c

Thanks to both of you i think im going to go with the bitspower top


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> If you have removeable motherboard tray I think its really a big hit to have QCs. Also when your gonne clean them radiators or have a bay res pump kombo
> I think Koolance QCs looks kool if you ask me


Good point... You just helped me make up my mind.


----------



## sate200

my rad box phobya!! waiting 3x7970 to complete my next up!!!


----------



## wermad

^^^


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> my rad box phobya!! waiting 3x7970 to complete my next up!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


so....much.....awesome......getting....expensive thoughts!


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam-c*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see a top for pump ? This one on the list is just housing for pump : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27891 and this pump comes without a top : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33825
> 
> 
> 
> could you recommend me a top
Click to expand...

Just thought I'd weigh in. I like the bitspower top, however I purchased the Koolance PMP-450 because I read a review somewhere (I think it was Martins Liquid Lab http://martinsliquidlab.org/ ) where it was tested and shown to be the most quiet and still had fantastic performance. I leave mine on full blast and I can't hear it unless I put my ear right up next to it. It looks about the same as the bitspower top however I don't know if the performance is the same.


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> A couple pix !
> Next week I will get the 2 UT60 radiators so that will be awsm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I can "fill" the case up!
> For those who wonder, the case is almost 84cm from floor


Looks like my first apartment. Electronics first, furniture later. ;-)


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> my rad box phobya!! waiting 3x7970 to complete my next up!!!


Did I sell this to you? Lol I don't remember which member I sold mine to. Beastly setup regardless. I kind of miss my 3xEX360s with 18 AP-15s


----------



## phillyd

new pics of the build!

check for more in the build log in the sig!


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> To be on the safe side, I'd recommend:


Thanks I made sure to use Thor's hammer to lock in my RAM


----------



## Dirtnap

Here are the before and after vids of my first water cooling video with some shout outs to OCN. Thanks everyone for all your valuable input. This is just a CPU loop because I didn't want to go crazy for my first build and also my GTX 680s run super cool anyway! I might just go water for the vanity of it on the GPUs! Thanks dudes.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Red UV reactive tubing with super thin, carefully wrapped Teflon Tape around the tube.


that could work some sort of silicon tape good idear !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> I suppose you could steer clear of the normal candy cane colors or are you wanting red and white?


check the build log epic thermal tower its a wonka theam but yer red/ white
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> i saw a thread awhile back about someone dying the exterior of his tubing... but i dont remember where is saw it =S... if you could dig that up, you could try that


yer i remember seeing it aswell i better try and find it !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> got some new toys in the mail today,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and on top of that my girlfriends dad own a printing company and he got me a gift too, that is just amazing


this is sick !! top job


----------



## Tisca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> A couple pix !
> Next week I will get the 2 UT60 radiators so that will be awsm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I can "fill" the case up!
> For those who wonder, the case is almost 84cm from floor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2247993/width/600/height/450
> http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2247996/width/525/height/700


That thing is big enough to use as a monitor stand. Just place a table big enough for kb and mouse next to it.


----------



## skitzab1

i just mocked up my mobo water block ill make it tomoz


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> i just mocked up my mobo water block ill make it tomoz


What you gonna use as your plate? Wood? Metal? Acrylic? ... Carbon Fibre ?!?









I like the last one please let it be the last one please please please please please.









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What you gonna use as your plate? Wood? Metal? Acrylic? ... Carbon Fibre ?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the last one please let it be the last one please please please please please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


we will see within 24 hours i cant make noise for another 10 hours







nite time kids in bed


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hey everyone i was going to redo part of my loop as the hose going from my
pump to my first rad is way to messy for my liking and can cause some problems.
part of my plan is to connect part of it with my white UV hose but with all the connectors
i am almost able to connect the pump to rad w/o any hose..not sure if i should just buy
longer connector extensions and just leave out the hose. any thoughts?

The 90* compression fitting will be attached to the pump exit(top).
the hose which is currently on pump will have ring clamp stay on but
hose will be cut close to the liquid exit point and attached to the
compression part of the compression fitting.

The female to female connector will then be attached to the
90* compression fitting

The other end of the female to female connector will be attached to a 45*
compression fitting.

The other end of the 45* compression fitting will then be connected to the
radiator which also has a 45* compression fitting connected via white UV hose.


----------



## thfallen

derrp


----------



## Aventadoor

Wrong thread!!


----------



## thfallen

o so taking about fitting is fine but radiators is not wow. that's funny as ****.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I dont understand Sapphire Trixx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My VDDC in GPU-Z went all the way to 1.420












@Lucky#13... I'm not sure I would mess with it at this point. Not until it's time to update something that requires new fluid anyway. This is why even as a n00b, I would always recommend mocking it up both in your head and in reality before completing it by adding fluid. Once, you've completed it's kinda too late.

Like with me, my build is complete but I've got another pump on the way and have a new CPU to install. So I went and ordered the pump to take full advantage of draining the loop to add a backup pump to my loop. The same rule would apply to me if I wanted to add fittings to add my VGA bridge to my FC > CPU idea. I need to give the FC a bit of height to make the connection properly.









So if you can hold off I recommend that you strongly consider it. Not only are you working with fluid(I don't see a drain) but you're working with dye as well. Whenever you do it you might consider adding a drain to your loop imho. I have one an it's already paid for itself a couple times.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tuthsok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Cigar cutters work great!


Especially on Cohiba brand toobin'


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tuthsok*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Cigar cutters work great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially on Cohiba brand toobin'
Click to expand...

I've found they work ESPECIALLY well with a good Cuban Tubin.









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

Not finished but sneek peek! this as i am concerned this may be classed as water cooling related but i think it is as this is the rad grill im making for my storm fortress and im verry pleased with it so fare

Just tape holding it together at the moment took ages just to pull it all apart again














and ther us a little i have to add to the top for 2 drive bays



























man i wish this was not sold this is really coming along well


----------



## TwentyCent

Badass!


----------



## smex




----------



## zdude

does anyone have any sugestions for a water block for the Dell Perc 5/i Raid card's processor, it will be used in a water cooled PC where there is ZERO airflow and ZERO noise tolarance?


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> does anyone have any sugestions for a water block for the Dell Perc 5/i Raid card's processor, it will be used in a water cooled PC where there is ZERO airflow and ZERO noise tolarance?


what is the rig for?! zero airflow is always bad.. what do you mean by ZERO and why?!


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## Ceadderman

Nice Liquid Fusion Res Rush. Thought you were done with that build by now.









~Ceadder


----------



## mr. biggums

slight update my rig left my test bench, for a more safe enclosure that i can worry less about lol


and in some light


----------



## flipmatthew

Accidental double post, i apologize


----------



## flipmatthew

Hey guys! I promised I would work on the build as you guys suggested, and I did (with the help of a friend, jeblas289). Here are the pics! (more on the way, have to upload)!
Also big shoutout and thank you to SVTHOMAS for the backplate and single IO bracket







.
Full album can be found here


































Thanks for all of your constructive criticism


----------



## phillyd

looks great! the case needs an internal paintjob tho


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice Liquid Fusion Res Rush. Thought you were done with that build by now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Man, literary been working 12 hours a day, six days a week for the last month and half, no time to do anything


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Man, literary been working 12 hours a day, six days a week for the last month and half, no time to do anything


And on the seventh day he rested modded!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> And on the seventh day he rested modded!


resting=modding


----------



## RushMore1205




----------



## Ceadderman

What Engineering Sample is that? Can you say or is NDA still in effect on it?









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

Its old school, I've had it for a while, core 2 quad extreme

The mobo in this build.is one of the best boards of its time, 790I Nvidia.

8GB of patriot ram 2ghz


----------



## Ceadderman

Very old skool cool.









You guys gettin ready for Chimp Challenge? I made myself a special avvy as you can see.









~Ceadder


----------



## nabarun

Got my new TJ11 last Friday










Compared with my Xigmatek Elysium










thinking about making a build log


----------



## GAMERIG

Just added 140 RAD in the front..


----------



## wermad

I'm having the worst luck in the world







After spending the whole day prepping and redoing all the wiremanagement of my rig, all the fans are buzzing






























I can't F-ing believe I got another bad freaking controller!!! This would be third controller. I need some help guys. I'm about to quit on this build and I'm to the point of selling it all just because of a stupid fan controller cannot work properly! Even the pump sitting on its own channel, just slightly stutters and doesn't spin. This doesn't happen with my old Scythe controller!!!

Its an NZXT Sentry Mix.

Ceadder, I know you shall say "I told ya so, should have gotten the Sunbeamthech!"


----------



## Ceadderman

I say nuffin.










Looks like I'm gettin some MOAR light inside this beast. Not that I wanted a CCL. Tried gettin seller to cancel sale a week ago. Fool disputed now I'm stuck. Oh well at least CCL is Red.









Now I gotta get some split tubing to temper the briteness of a CCL. May not even use the blasted thing cause this thing is gonna be plenty bright when I get a Red 8" CCL for my Res. You tell me if I need a CCL in this thing.







...










Got the LEDs' for my block. Just waiting on male molex pins and connectors to hit the box so I can build my extensions and connect my LEDs' up properly.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having the worst luck in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After spending the whole day prepping and redoing all the wiremanagement of my rig, all the fans are buzzing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't F-ing believe I got another bad freaking controller!!! This would be third controller. I need some help guys. I'm about to quit on this build and I'm to the point of selling it all just because of a stupid fan controller cannot work properly! Even the pump sitting on its own channel, just slightly stutters and doesn't spin. This doesn't happen with my old Scythe controller!!!
> 
> Its an NZXT Sentry Mix.
> 
> Ceadder, I know you shall say "I told ya so, should have gotten the Sunbeamthech!"


http://www.lamptron.com/products/view/Fan_Controller_FC2

I have one of those, and it works flawlessly. And I can run AT LEAST 6 High Speed Yate Loons on a single channel without an issue. I know because that was what I was doing until I just recently disassembled my tower for Ivy Bridge









EDIT: BTW - it sounds like a startup voltage issue with your pump... might need a bit more of a burst than the controller can provide to get it going. Should just throw the pump on a molex, skip the controller.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> http://www.lamptron.com/products/view/Fan_Controller_FC2
> I have one of those, and it works flawlessly. And I can run AT LEAST 6 High Speed Yate Loons on a single channel without an issue. I know because that was what I was doing until I just recently disassembled my tower for Ivy Bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: BTW - it sounds like a startup voltage issue with your pump... might need a bit more of a burst than the controller can provide to get it going. Should just throw the pump on a molex, skip the controller.


This.
I have 6 Ultra Kazes,2 Ap 29s and a D5 on a fc5 with no problems
Most fans buzz when running on reduced voltage anyay....


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What you gonna use as your plate? Wood? Metal? Acrylic? ... Carbon Fibre ?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the last one please let it be the last one please please please please please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


bummed out for today..

nar got pics soon.

of the first desine









not happy yet


----------



## skitzab1

one idear.

So if i want to just use air i can


















any one got any ideas im thinking of sinking them down the midddle of them


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Wermad:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> I have 6 Ultra Kazes,2 Ap 29s and a D5 on a fc5 with no problems
> Most fans buzz when running on reduced voltage anyay....


I had the same problem with my Scythe Gentle Typhoons at 5400 rpm (150cfm)
first i had the NZXT sentry and found that it only has 10watts per channel.
the gentle typhoons needed 1.14 amps.. if you calculate it out it's about 30w per a channel
while the fans were on the nzxt controller they made a buzz noise (due to under powering them)
i got a Lamptron FC2 and everthing is good (45 watt per a channel i think).
also i would recommend getting a specifc pump controller only for pump.
http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=157_167&products_id=1728
( i think you need close to 25 watt per channel for most pumps to operate with spec.)
i would connect pump straight to psu..i've heard of peoples controllers going out and they
didn't notice and no flow = no cooling..but if your gonna use a controller use one designed specifically for pumps..
i'm no pro so i could be wrong. got alot to teach but even more to learn.


----------



## jdangond

updated rig with 200 rad and some quick disconnects.

Before:


After:


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having the worst luck in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After spending the whole day prepping and redoing all the wiremanagement of my rig, all the fans are buzzing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't F-ing believe I got another bad freaking controller!!! This would be third controller. I need some help guys. I'm about to quit on this build and I'm to the point of selling it all just because of a stupid fan controller cannot work properly! Even the pump sitting on its own channel, just slightly stutters and doesn't spin. This doesn't happen with my old Scythe controller!!!
> Its an NZXT Sentry Mix.
> Ceadder, I know you shall say "I told ya so, should have gotten the Sunbeamthech!"


I don't believe this is a controller issue, unless you've tried your Scythe since this started. My first pump did this when it had water damage. The second pump did this randomly. After reseating the top and moving it to a different computer (different controller), it worked fine. The first pump, I replaced the board with one from DIYINHK. I have a second board on my desk for if/when the other pump starts that crap again.


----------



## skitzab1

im bored anyone want to watch me do some sleeving
im just chilling got a long stint of parra sleaving.

if anyone is interested in watching.

My skype is skitzab1 i like to stream wilst modding


----------



## bundymania

Hmmm....nope...but make a YT vid, where you´re drinking beer from a 50cm Reservoir in 30 sec.









Well well...time for the next candidate


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having the worst luck in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After spending the whole day prepping and redoing all the wiremanagement of my rig, all the fans are buzzing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't F-ing believe I got another bad freaking controller!!! This would be third controller. I need some help guys. I'm about to quit on this build and I'm to the point of selling it all just because of a stupid fan controller cannot work properly! Even the pump sitting on its own channel, just slightly stutters and doesn't spin. This doesn't happen with my old Scythe controller!!!
> Its an NZXT Sentry Mix.
> Ceadder, I know you shall say "I told ya so, should have gotten the Sunbeamthech!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't believe this is a controller issue, unless you've tried your Scythe since this started. My first pump did this when it had water damage. The second pump did this randomly. After reseating the top and moving it to a different computer (different controller), it worked fine. The first pump, I replaced the board with one from DIYINHK. I have a second board on my desk for if/when the other pump starts that crap again.
Click to expand...

I believe (could be wrong) that werm is onto D5 now so this scenario doesn't apply. Sunbeam Controller werm. 30w per channel. I've got one pump on Channel 1 and it's running smoothly. Gonna put my 2nd on Channel 2 and my fans are controlled by Channel 3. If I change to a larger case that doesn't require stealth I'll probably get a 6 channel and run my fans from that and stick to the 3 channel for my pumps.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Well well...time for the next candidate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You got some random EK 6870 waterblocks layin around you aren't gonna use Bundy? NDA should have run its course by now.









Do the acrylics come predrilled for 3mm LED anymore or are they bare like the 7*** series blocks?









~Ceadder


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> does anyone have any sugestions for a water block for the Dell Perc 5/i Raid card's processor, it will be used in a water cooled PC where there is ZERO airflow and ZERO noise tolarance?
> 
> 
> 
> what is the rig for?! zero airflow is always bad.. what do you mean by ZERO and why?!
Click to expand...

The rig is a server rig that runs 24/7 (in my bedroom the only place it fits) and is cooled by a loop of copper piping running through my basement heating it and cooling my PC at the same time but now I have the need for a raid card because I recently got about 50 250gb HDD and want to put as many into a single redundant raid array as I could and still get some really good preformance. Now the reason it has poor airflow is because everything in my PC is water cooled including my current 2TB HDD and like I said the PC is in my room and I wake up when the dog rolls over about 20 yards away (my PC making any noise has the same effect because I have my pump in the basement so the only nois it makes it the ocasional coil squeal when I am gaming on my gtx 580 (HDDs are in a sound proofed box).

So any sugestions on what I should use for a water block on the PERC 5 Raid controller?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> http://www.lamptron.com/products/view/Fan_Controller_FC2
> I have one of those, and it works flawlessly. And I can run AT LEAST 6 High Speed Yate Loons on a single channel without an issue. I know because that was what I was doing until I just recently disassembled my tower for Ivy Bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: BTW - it sounds like a startup voltage issue with your pump... might need a bit more of a burst than the controller can provide to get it going. Should just throw the pump on a molex, skip the controller.


The Sentry has 50w per channel and the voltage adjustment ranges from 100-40%. I had everything at 100% and the pump was sitting on its own channel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> I don't believe this is a controller issue, unless you've tried your Scythe since this started. My first pump did this when it had water damage. The second pump did this randomly. After reseating the top and moving it to a different computer (different controller), it worked fine. The first pump, I replaced the board with one from DIYINHK. I have a second board on my desk for if/when the other pump starts that crap again.


I never had issues hooking up my ddc to the controller. This morning I disco every fan and the pump from the controller and just ran *one* fan and it had a slight rattle to it. I hooked up that same fan to the mb and to a psu molex connector and it spun perfectly fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe (could be wrong) that werm is onto D5 now so this scenario doesn't apply. Sunbeam Controller werm. 30w per channel. I've got one pump on Channel 1 and it's running smoothly. Gonna put my 2nd on Channel 2 and my fans are controlled by Channel 3. If I change to a larger case that doesn't require stealth I'll probably get a 6 channel and run my fans from that and stick to the 3 channel for my pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got some random EK 6870 waterblocks layin around you aren't gonna use Bundy? NDA should have run its course by now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the acrylics come predrilled for 3mm LED anymore or are they bare like the 7*** series blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My pump has never had issues and I would have gotten a Lamptron as the FanAtic worked awesome in my MM build. That Lamptron had 50w per channel but it was a switch style controller (0, 7, & 12v). I contacted NZXT and I'm hoping I can get a replacement asap.

edit: here are the R4 specs:
Quote:


> Product Details:
> 
> The R4 series fans offer a unity of maximum rotational speed and optimum airflow. Using a unique long-life sleeve bearing fan, the R4 series offers long life rating of 50,000 hours. R4 series fans perform at a maximum of 69CFM at 2000RPM. These R4 series are available in red, green, blue LED and dark smoke (no LED).
> 
> Features:
> 
> Up to 69CFM (maximum RPM)
> 19 dB-A silent application for CPU cooling.
> RoHS compliance for protecting the environment
> Recommended for V10, V8, Hyper 212, Hyper Z600, Gemini, Cosmos, Cosmos S, HAF 932, HAF 922, CM Storm Scout and Sniper.
> 50,000 long life hour
> 
> Specifications:
> Dimension (W / H / D) 120*120*25mm
> Voltage 12VDC
> Current (Ampere) 0.35A
> Input (Watt) 4.2W± 10%
> Speed (R.P.M.) 2000 R.P.M.
> Air Flow (CFM) 69 CFM
> Air pressure (mmH2O) 3.04 mmH2O
> Fan Noise Level (dB-A) 19 dB-A
> Weight 116 g
> Bearing Type Long Life Sleeve
> Fan Life Expectancy 50,000 hours
> Connector 3 pin
> Screws 4 pcs
> 3 to 4 pin Adapter 1 pcs


I had each rad on its own channel and at most, the quad rad with eight fans, would have been doing ~33w at max rpm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Coulda swore you were on D5 werm.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Coulda swore you were on D5 werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I had that a few months ago with the 690 build but I didn't like it much. A bit too loud, not much voltage control, big, and really a pita to purge trapped air. Got me another ddc 3.2 (preowned) and its been awesome like my first ddc 3.2. The good news as that I learned my lesson from the old controller and the faulty ones I received. I prepped all my wiremanagement for easy access this time and the distribution pcb made such a difference. I got rid of about 20 Y-cables!





(mind the smudges/smears







)


----------



## Angrybutcher

Also, how long have you let the pump stutter? Sometimes when mine did that, it would fully spin after ~15-20 seconds of stuttering. Most of the time it would stutter 2-3 times, then not do anything.


----------



## Bouf0010

Almost dooooone


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Almost dooooone


----------



## Castscythe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Almost dooooone


so...much.....win....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Also, how long have you let the pump stutter? Sometimes when mine did that, it would fully spin after ~15-20 seconds of stuttering. Most of the time it would stutter 2-3 times, then not do anything.


Only happens when its hooked up to the NZXT. It actually worked on the Akasa controllers I got. I have it plugged to the mb for now and she's perfectly fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Almost dooooone


Impressive mate







. Is the mesh going to stay that color? Would be nice to squirt a bit of satin black or satin blue


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Only happens when its hooked up to the NZXT. It actually worked on the Akasa controllers I got. I have it plugged to the mb for now and she's perfectly fine.
> Impressive mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Is the mesh going to stay that color? Would be nice to squirt a bit of satin black or satin blue


thanks everyone! its going to get painted black tonight, its just in the process of being fitted right now


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Also, how long have you let the pump stutter? Sometimes when mine did that, it would fully spin after ~15-20 seconds of stuttering. Most of the time it would stutter 2-3 times, then not do anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Only happens when its hooked up to the NZXT. It actually worked on the Akasa controllers I got. I have it plugged to the mb for now and she's perfectly fine.
Click to expand...

Did you try changing channels with your pump? Might be that the channel it was on had a narrow lane for power distrobution. which could cause what you were experiencing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Almost dooooone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Impressive mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Is the mesh going to stay that color? Would be nice to squirt a bit of satin black or satin blue
Click to expand...

I dunno I kinda like that color the way it is unless that's bare metal. Black is good but sometimes can be overdone. And Blue would take the eye away from the important stuff imho.









As they say, less is more.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Almost dooooone


Got a build log? Really nice build.


----------



## Fear of Oneself

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Almost dooooone


What case is that? I like the grill over your HDD cage and DVD rack.

Are your tubes blue, or is that an additive to the water?

On a completely unrelated note: I'm sporting a 240mm rad which cools only my CPU and chipset, each with only small voltage bumps, so my loop remains cool. (At 20C ambient, I get 44C load on the CPU). So I've unplugged one fan, and have only 1 fan cooling my whole case at 25% (And it's doing a damn good job). Do you guys know of a fan controller that would let me run two fans at 10%? That would be ideal for my rad, and keep my system whisper quiet


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*
> 
> What case is that? I like the grill over your HDD cage and DVD rack.
> 
> Are your tubes blue, or is that an additive to the water?
> 
> On a completely unrelated note: I'm sporting a 240mm rad which cools only my CPU and chipset, each with only small voltage bumps, so my loop remains cool. (At 20C ambient, I get 44C load on the CPU). So I've unplugged one fan, and have only 1 fan cooling my whole case at 25% (And it's doing a damn good job). Do you guys know of a fan controller that would let me run two fans at 10%? That would be ideal for my rad, and keep my system whisper quiet


Looks like he fashioned the grill out of this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_314&products_id=3398

I've been planning on doing something similar, but it's just difficult to get the right bends lol


----------



## TwentyCent

I believe it is a 800D, judging by the size and the feet.

Now concerning those fans, you want to run them at 0.1x12 = 1.2V or 10% or their lowest voltage limit, which is pretty much a unique characteristic of the fan model? AFAIK, fan controllers that rely purely on voltage control can pretty much cover the whole 0-12V range.

At least this one does...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Did you try changing channels with your pump? Might be that the channel it was on had a narrow lane for power distrobution. which could cause what you were experiencing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno I kinda like that color the way it is unless that's bare metal. Black is good but sometimes can be overdone. And Blue would take the eye away from the important stuff imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As they say, less is more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


its reused metal from an old desk and it has this grey powder coat on it, unfortunately due to the cutting and bending its not in great shape anymore so i gotta paint it to cover it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Got a build log? Really nice build.


thanks! i started one a while back but i stopped updating it lol here it is anyways - http://www.overclock.net/t/1141793/bluecooler-800d
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*
> 
> What case is that? I like the grill over your HDD cage and DVD rack.
> Are your tubes blue, or is that an additive to the water?
> 
> On a completely unrelated note: I'm sporting a 240mm rad which cools only my CPU and chipset, each with only small voltage bumps, so my loop remains cool. (At 20C ambient, I get 44C load on the CPU). So I've unplugged one fan, and have only 1 fan cooling my whole case at 25% (And it's doing a damn good job). Do you guys know of a fan controller that would let me run two fans at 10%? That would be ideal for my rad, and keep my system whisper quiet


its a 800D, i took out the original bottom cover cause it was getting in the way. Those are blue tubes but i am using a dye as well to get that dark color in the res (mayhems deep purple)


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe (could be wrong) that werm is onto D5 now so this scenario doesn't apply. Sunbeam Controller werm. 30w per channel. I've got one pump on Channel 1 and it's running smoothly. Gonna put my 2nd on Channel 2 and my fans are controlled by Channel 3. If I change to a larger case that doesn't require stealth I'll probably get a 6 channel and run my fans from that and stick to the 3 channel for my pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got some random EK 6870 waterblocks layin around you aren't gonna use Bundy? NDA should have run its course by now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the acrylics come predrilled for 3mm LED anymore or are they bare like the 7*** series blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I don´t have blocks for the 6870 card, only the 7970 cooler, which i´m using for my review but when i remember it right, the 6870 block has no led holes.

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p10695_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-FC6870---EN--Nickel-.html


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hmmm....nope...but make a YT vid, where you´re drinking beer from a 50cm Reservoir in 30 sec.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well well...time for the next candidate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ahh I miss my Koolance 7970 block. So sexy.


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ahh I miss my Koolance 7970 block. So sexy.


Koolance makes some dang nice blocks.

Using their vid-nx680 right now and love it.

No worries with the nickel plating like you have with EK also.


----------



## nycste

bah wermad sorry to hear about your fan controller issues I still havent fully solved mine using the crappy vantect at full speeds to remove the buzzing sound from the controller itself the fans themselves run perfectly fine at all settings.

i just want a cheap simple black cd bay controller, got a gift card to best buy, newegg and hoping to spend most of it on a fan controller and not look back


----------



## Bouf0010

I think black was a good choice







dont mind the crappy quality pictures


----------



## phillyd

what do you guys think of the Danger Den 7970 block?


----------



## TwentyCent

I personally think that DD blocks, be it CPU or GPU, generally look haggard. But that's just me.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> I personally think that DD blocks, be it CPU or GPU, generally look haggard. But that's just me.


idrc about looks for this purpose, what about performance


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> idrc about looks for this purpose, what about performance


Performance should be around the same as other 7970 water blocks.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> I think black was a good choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dont mind the crappy quality pictures
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Crappy pic's lol there way better than the pic i took of my pc!
Love the whole 5.25 in bay cover looks great however it must make 5.25" access irritating. That said i recon the lights would look way better behind the mesh!


----------



## 4514kaiser

yer don't think there are any 7970 WB comparisons out there could be wrong


----------



## phillyd

I always hear good things about EK blocks, but never bad things about other blocks..


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I always hear good things about EK blocks, but never bad things about other blocks..


I'm pretty sure most GPU water blocks perform around the same since their inner design is similar. Most people seem to buy them based on looks anyhow.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> I think black was a good choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dont mind the crappy quality pictures


Words cannot explain how amazing these are!


----------



## 4514kaiser

Ya EK did release some marketing Stats on there 7970 blocks comparing them to older blocks (sorry don't have a link) just showing that they were "better than older EK blocks" but when it comes down to it i doubt there is much difference in temps just like across CPU blocks. I would just go for the block with the best construction that you like the look of, the only reason i got ek was i got tired of waiting for Aquacomputers lol (I think there blocks look far better)

So if you like the look of the DD block i see no reason not to get it the only other thing worth mentioning is IF you intend to run something other than distilled water I believe it voids your EK and DD warranty
(I may be wrong but i seem to remember this was the outcome of the nickel plating issue Lets not discuss that however lol)


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> does anyone have any sugestions for a water block for the Dell Perc 5/i Raid card's processor, it will be used in a water cooled PC where there is ZERO airflow and ZERO noise tolarance?


I'm not sure what size limitations there are, but you could make your own block (or have one made), or try to retrofit a passive chipset cooler to the card. An old Thermalright chipset cooler would probably do wonders even in low airflow. Another thing to consider is modding the case to help encourage natural convection so you can get some airflow without needing fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Its old school, I've had it for a while, core 2 quad extreme
> The mobo in this build.is one of the best boards of its time, 790I Nvidia.
> 8GB of patriot ram 2ghz


I had one of those boards, it was great! ...Until it caught fire. And as soon as the fire went out if turned right back on! The thing was a champ, it's still in a box in my room haha. Want a set of blocks for it Rush? I have the BP chipset and EK mosfet blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having the worst luck in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After spending the whole day prepping and redoing all the wiremanagement of my rig, all the fans are buzzing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't F-ing believe I got another bad freaking controller!!! This would be third controller. I need some help guys. I'm about to quit on this build and I'm to the point of selling it all just because of a stupid fan controller cannot work properly! Even the pump sitting on its own channel, just slightly stutters and doesn't spin. This doesn't happen with my old Scythe controller!!!
> Its an NZXT Sentry Mix.
> Ceadder, I know you shall say "I told ya so, should have gotten the Sunbeamthech!"


Geez werm, sorry to hear this! Not sure what to say except that my Zalman MFC-1 is rated at something like 6w per channel so it's pretty underpowered, don't choose that one


----------



## Fultonloyn

So this may seem like an obvious answer, but can you overvolt a pump? Ive seen test that run pumps at higher than 12v. Obviously with a power supply that only has a max 12v rail this is not possible. whats the other option?


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> So this may seem like an obvious answer, but can you overvolt a pump? Ive seen test that run pumps at higher than 12v. Obviously with a power supply that only has a max 12v rail this is not possible. whats the other option?


I'm sure you could just get a voltage transformer There must be some fan controllers out there with this capacity but honestly I don't know why you would want to do it. From memory DDC lang pumps have like a 6-14v capacity if you mean exceed 14v by Overvolt I assume that would just cause the pump to over heat and the PCB board would just die!


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> I'm sure you could just get a voltage transformer There must be some fan controllers out there with this capacity but honestly I don't know why you would want to do it. From memory DDC lang pumps have like a 6-14v capacity if you mean exceed 14v by Overvolt I assume that would just cause the pump to over heat and the PCB board would just die!


I have the XSPC 750 res/pump combo. It performs pretty well already, just wanted to see if there was a way to push is a little. After all isnt that what this is all about?! I do have the Lamptron FC6 controller.

EDIT: just checked this controller only goes up to 12v.


----------



## superericla

You could do something similar to this to get 24V...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> I have the XSPC 750 res/pump combo. It performs pretty well already, just wanted to see if there was a way to push is a little. After all isnt that what this is all about?! I do have the Lamptron FC6 controller.
> EDIT: just checked this controller only goes up to 12v.


you could get something like this or like this but i would just take that money and get a new pump


----------



## Fultonloyn

Yeah but then I need a new res too....I'm trying to save my money from my huge, and very expensive, summer build.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Yeah but then I need a new res too....I'm trying to save my money from my huge, and very expensive, summer build.


yeah thats true, well you could always get one of those 24V controllers and use it in the next build. What do you have in the loop with the XSPC res/pump?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Yeah but then I need a new res too....I'm trying to save my money from my huge, and very expensive, summer build.


Get yourself a bmav brand DDC-1T for $35 and mate it with a Swiftech Res Top for $35 before shipping. 2 birds, one stone can still save money.



I have a bmav pump and it works very nicely. PM bmaverick for information.


















No mounts on them however. Just the body and the 3/8 top. You'll need to re-pin it from flat 4 pin plug to 2 or 3 pin. Don't need pins or crimper. Already pinned just need to be reconfigured and he'll supply the schematic.









~Ceadder


----------



## 4514kaiser

Yer i would just get a DDC-1 I doubt that little pump can take any more that 12v ( you would have to check the specs) The only thing that you will achieve is frying the pump if you put a proportionally significantly higher voltage through into the pump.

So if your anyway planning on a amusingly expensive build this summer just get the pump setup that you want for that system and use it on you current system.... DDC-1 pumps are great I have dual pump in an XSPC top is see no reason to get better pumps on full i get 1.3gpm even with my silly loop


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> Yer i would just get a DDC-1 I doubt that little pump can take any more that 12v ( you would have to check the specs) The only thing that you will achieve is frying the pump if you put a proportionally significantly higher voltage through into the pump.
> 
> So if your anyway planning on a amusingly expensive build this summer just get the pump setup that you want for that system and use it on you current system.... DDC-1 pumps are great I have dual pump in an XSPC top is see no reason to get better pumps on full i get 1.3gpm even with my silly loop


As that pic above shows I only have one running in my EK Dual DDC v2 block. Under full load with Mainboard to CPU to Radiator My average under Load is between 34-37c. More than reasonable for a 1 pump system. I could get better temps if I had Yate Loon D12SH-12D High Speeds instead of Yate Loon D12SM-12C Medium Speed fans. Should be able to get those soon since I have an order in for them with Performance PCs'. Just waiting on them to arrive from China.










With MOST systems there isn't a need for much more performance unless you're running an HTPC system imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> I think black was a good choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dont mind the crappy quality pictures


 How much Mesh did you need to do that cover up job there sir?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> How much Mesh did you need to do that cover up job there sir?


hmmm prob around 5 sq ft maybe more with waste. I didnt have to buy it cause i salvaged it from pieces of an old computer desk


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> How much Mesh did you need to do that cover up job there sir?
> 
> 
> 
> hmmm prob around 5 sq ft maybe more with waste. I didnt have to buy it cause i salvaged it from pieces of an old computer desk
Click to expand...

Nice. Recycle what you already have to make your system look better. I love it when a plan comes together.









~Ceadder


----------



## trendy

I wish I knew where I could pick up some stuff like that.... Even something I'd have to paint, because A.C. Ryan mesh is just too pricey IMHO. $40 for 2 panels of it is a lot!


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unimatrixzero*
> 
> Great Work Skitz... Love the innovation.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unimatrixzero*
> 
> That is one fine Trooper Mod.. I want to see the end result. PLEASE.....
> Where did that front Trim Piece come from? I know that piece but I cant place it.
> Wait.. Is that Lian Li's armor Suite trim.????


he he lol it dose look like it but its just a normal hous hold item







i will release what it is.

Once i have finished the storm fortress log should be done in about a week









these are parts for the trooper build









hay guys let us know what yas think 



my first unboxing short review from koolroom

short lol its like 25 min and got some big double rads lol









thay may continue to if us like them.

this was no prep.

i woke to the delivery guy and just grabed the laptop and went for it

i didnt edit befor i uploaded ether its got all and any mistakes like

PET lol i ment to say pec sleaving









little bit of work today this is for Daniel-epic pc cases










hay guys im thinking of live streaming me modding what do you all think of this idea !!!!!!!


----------



## liberato87

Obsidian 800d R.O.G.edition









   
  
  
   

 

more info

Obsidian 800d R.O.G. -> liberato87 - Xtreme Hardware Forum


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> I wish I knew where I could pick up some stuff like that.... Even something I'd have to paint, because A.C. Ryan mesh is just too pricey IMHO. $40 for 2 panels of it is a lot!


check out local/big name hardware stores - or even metal suppliers in your area.


----------



## drkCrix

My Current System, already planning a Case Labs M8 build using a Rampage IV Extreme + 3930K as the basis

Parts: Asus Maximus IV Extreme, Intel 2550K @ 4.5, 16GB Gskill, Dual ATI 7950 @ 1000/6300, CL Titanium HD, 2 x Corsair Force 3 60GB Raid 0. 2 x OCZ Petrol 128 RAID 0, LG BDRW

Cooling: XSPC Raystorm (Alu Hold Down), 2 x EK 7950 Blocks(Copper), BP Ram Freezer, Phobya 200mm front Rad, XSPC 240mm rop Rad, Koolance 401X2 Bay Res, DDC3.25 Pump, BP Fittings, Koolance QDCs, SilenX Effizo 120mm fans, Bit Fennix Spectre Pro 200mm fans


----------



## Lazy Bear

Well, a little disheartened by the two epic rigs above mine, I'm gonna tentatively toss out what I have so far. This pic is a bit old (few weeks), and, if you check my build log, I have actually ordered the rest of my loop, and will be making the rig look a LOT cleaner afterwards. As of this moment, here's an image of a messy messy rig that is halfway complete:










This was when I had replaced the pump and gotten everything working again.


----------



## skitzab1

storm trooper storm fortress droping the rads in now if anyone is interested in watching.

my skype is skitzab1

so um yer just add me if u r interested in watching and hanging out !!!!

its the storm fortress build that ill be working on








now i will say that when i put things like this out only a limited number of people get true so u have to quick


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> storm trooper storm fortress droping the rads in now if anyone is interested in watching.
> 
> my skype is skitzab1
> 
> so um yer just add me if u r interested in watching and hanging out !!!!
> 
> its the storm fortress build that ill be working on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i will say that when i put things like this out only a limited number of people get true so u have to quick


i sent you a request.


----------



## Dhalgren65

SAM_1163.JPG 460k .JPG file


SAM_1167.JPG 309k .JPG file


SAM_1169.JPG 313k .JPG file


SAM_1170.JPG 313k .JPG file


Thanks to all in OCN WC community.
Orphan1 update.
I read post 1-220,then220 to 479 next day-I started to order...
I had an H100,not really modded(except a litte offset inside case to left,new holes) but knew I could do better.
I read 479 to 570 the next evening.
Next day I got through 705.
Parts arrived.
I got a Swiftech MCR220 rev B w/MCP350 for cheap,I got 2 MCW82's and a bunch of Feser barbs.
Also got the Monsoon Silver bullet plug-distilled water-
I had some Silicon tubing from a Car project,Viola!
Post 706 found me fiddling w/parts in hand.
I've read enough!

Prior to WC second loop(first!)
Idle 38c Load 47c (CPU)
Idle(2x HIS 6850 IceQTurbo 880/1100) 37/34c Load 72c/68c
AFTER
CPU idle 32c Load 44c
GPU's(switched to XFX 6870 950/1250) idle 30/30 Load 45c!!!!!!!!!!
BF3 Ultraaaaaa.
Seriously-
Thank you to all who have contibuted to this awesome post...
MORE to come...mwahahaha!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalgren65*
> 
> SAM_1163.JPG 460k .JPG file
> 
> 
> SAM_1167.JPG 309k .JPG file
> 
> 
> SAM_1169.JPG 313k .JPG file
> 
> 
> SAM_1170.JPG 313k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Thanks to all in OCN WC community.
> Orphan1 update.
> I read post 1-220,then220 to 479 next day-I started to order...
> I had an H100,not really modded(except a litte offset inside case to left,new holes) but knew I could do better.
> I read 479 to 570 the next evening.
> Next day I got through 705.
> Parts arrived.
> I got a Swiftech MCR220 rev B w/MCP350 for cheap,I got 2 MCW82's and a bunch of Feser barbs.
> Also got the Monsoon Silver bullet plug-distilled water-
> I had some Silicon tubing from a Car project,Viola!
> Post 706 found me fiddling w/parts in hand.
> I've read enough!
> 
> Prior to WC second loop(first!)
> Idle 38c Load 47c (CPU)
> Idle(2x HIS 6850 IceQTurbo 880/1100) 37/34c Load 72c/68c
> AFTER
> CPU idle 32c Load 44c
> GPU's(switched to XFX 6870 950/1250) idle 30/30 Load 45c!!!!!!!!!!
> BF3 Ultraaaaaa.
> Seriously-
> Thank you to all who have contibuted to this awesome post...
> MORE to come...mwahahaha!


Hey man could you fix those to IMG files instead of JPG files?









Would appreciate it thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalgren65*
> 
> SAM_1163.JPG 460k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> SAM_1167.JPG 309k .JPG file
> 
> 
> SAM_1169.JPG 313k .JPG file
> 
> 
> SAM_1170.JPG 313k .JPG file


DHALGREN, tell me whats that in picture? NO desk?


----------



## Dhalgren65

Um.
I made a stand with a Craftsman rolling mechanic cart and some Poplar.
I connected a deskmount telescopic arm-provides a range of adjustment that lets me game while watching TV.
(My GF sits 6 feet away working Fbook as a music promoter locally-on unnamed system fom HP/BestBuy-I'm embarrased,I had a fever)
We usually fight over TV-She's into Extra-I'm into Jepoardy,etc.
Anyhoo.it rolls,it retracts.
I hid the H100 inside top,added 2x120 cougars for push/pull to top of case,
used standoffs to mount a gutted Cooler Master laptop cooler for ventilated keyboard holder.
Future plans include fully retractable/stowed monitor that "pops up" with the push of a button.figagle.
Now its fraekin quiet!
Really-exremely biased opinion,but COUGAR fans are kihhiller.

Also.
Now I'll read up on how to change those jpegs to Img's-Tips?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalgren65*
> 
> Also.
> Now I'll read up on how to change those jpegs to Img's-Tips?


When you add image files, click on the image icon next to the paper clip (aka attachment) icon.

Alternatively you can use imageshack or photobucket.


----------



## Dhalgren65

I did the paperclip thing-it pulled from camera as i:?
I just found EZImage?
is this better?

SAM_1167.JPG 309k .JPG file


----------



## Dhalgren65

im guessing no.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Upload them to imgur, then post the image IMG link instead of posting actual image files.


----------



## phillyd

finally got some good shots of my build, be sure to check out my build log in the sig!


----------



## trendy

Looking good man!


----------



## phillyd

thanks! check the build log, and keep your eye out, bigger things...much bigger things, are coming.


----------



## Dhalgren65

SAM_1170.png 1429k .png file


is this ok?


----------



## Deeks

looks fine except the blanket of hair/dust not sure which it is behind the fans going into the rad there.
That definitely needs to be cleaned!!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalgren65*
> 
> SAM_1170.png 1429k .png file
> 
> 
> is this ok?


dear lord you need some cable management


----------



## BiscuitHead

I know it's not a whole lot, but here's my "water-cooled" rig.









Some day when I scrape together some real cash I'll get some nice upgrades and properly submerge it.





Please excuse the poor-quality photos. The lighting in my room is terrible and all I have is my phone.


----------



## ROG1

hey


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> hey guy...now i use 120+240 ek rad to water cooling my cpu and mobo..but today i want water cooling my gpu gtx680 x2sli.....
> the questions is.. enough to used 120+240 radiator only?


Sure it's enough. I would recommend a full 360 but you're not running a GPU block yet and with no RAM or GPU block you're only cooling your CPU and NB. So no need for more til you expand your loop. I'm assuming that's your idle temp on the digital display?









~Ceadder


----------



## gliggo

Just finished building my girlfriend a computer, complete with water cooling!









Tried out the new Monsoon Matte Black Compression fittings and Mayhem's Pastel White Dye, impressed with both so far, hope the dye doesn't stain my blocks like PrimoChill Dye did!

Here are some pics


----------



## Nano5656

What tubing did you use with that dye?

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


----------



## Cord78

Quote:


>


Did you rewire the GPU power plugs to use only one cable from the PSU instead of the usual 2? I may be wrong but in the picture it looks like you redid the wiring to be in serial/parallel from one plug to the next. I wonder how that would affect the wiring or the card? Maybe draw too much power through the wires? I can honestly say I have never heard of anyone doing that before and I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it.

each there own I guess.


----------



## v1ral

Haven't been updating my rig in a good minute *some random posts at the most*...
Enjoy!!

Before:




After:


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cord78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you rewire the GPU power plugs to use only one cable from the PSU instead of the usual 2? I may be wrong but in the picture it looks like you redid the wiring to be in serial/parallel from one plug to the next. I wonder how that would affect the wiring or the card? Maybe draw too much power through the wires? I can honestly say I have never heard of anyone doing that before and I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it.
> 
> each there own I guess.
Click to expand...

hey mate I didn't do any rewiring that's just how the powersupply came. Kind of a weird set up. The only thing I did was sleeve it.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> What tubing did you use with that dye?
> 
> Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


hey I used primochill primoflex clear tubing. With mayhems pastel white









Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Haven't been updating my rig in a good minute *some random posts at the most*...
> Enjoy!!
> *SNIP*


Hey, how'd you chop those lower drive bays out? just a dremel and a screwdriver for the bottom rivets? I'm only going to be using 3 as well, and that'd allow me an additional 240 if I decided my IB/7970 combo needs more chill


----------



## nicedart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I use a pvc pipe cutter. Works great on all tube sizes:


+1
Pulled that out of my tool box, it works great


----------



## Systemlord

Does anybody know how to sleeve a single 28 gauge rpm wire from a PMP-450 D5 Vario? Its tough enough to sleeve three of these wires, btw I use MDPC-X sleeving for the well sleeving and use their smallest sleeving. The problem isn't the actual sleeving, it's the heatshrink that seems to big.

Thanks in advance,

Systemlord


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Does anybody know how to sleeve a single 28 gauge rpm wire from a PMP-450 D5 Vario? Its tough enough to sleeve three of these wires, btw I use MDPC-X sleeving for the well sleeving and use their smallest sleeving. The problem isn't the actual sleeving, it's the heatshrink that seems to big.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Systemlord


Heatshrink too big? What are you using Nils's SATA shrink? I got four of my DDC-1T cables in one sleeve pretty easily and the shrink is just fine on it. Do you have a pic of what you're working with? Might be easier to give some input if we saw what you're referring to.









~Ceadder


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Heatshrink too big? What are you using Nils's SATA shrink? I got four of my DDC-1T cables in one sleeve pretty easily and the shrink is just fine on it. Do you have a pic of what you're working with? Might be easier to give some input if we saw what you're referring to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Here we go.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay first off trim your shrink by half length. That's too long.

2ndly If you were using single sleeve, every cable would have it's own sleeve. You would need the single shrink as well. If you just want one sleeve that's fine but that shrink will shrink to the proper size, it just looks better when you sleeve each cable separately. Then the shrink will shrink to fit appropriately.









Wish I had a close up but the red sleeved cable going into the HDD cage is my pump cables...










If you have some single shrink measure each cable to be sleeved taking off about 5-10mm at the pump and run to about 5mm from the pin. The sleeve is going to stretch to fit to the proper length. If you would like to see what a proper sleeve job on a D5 looks like get with fshizl. Dude's D5s' cables are always nice and clean.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Here we go.


For my D5,i i put the tacho wire in with one of the power wires...









Wish i had cut the pump end a little smaller tho....


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Just finished building my girlfriend a computer, complete with water cooling!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried out the new Monsoon Matte Black Compression fittings and Mayhem's Pastel White Dye, impressed with both so far, hope the dye doesn't stain my blocks like PrimoChill Dye did!
> Here are some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This build needs some of this white memory


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Hey, how'd you chop those lower drive bays out? just a dremel and a screwdriver for the bottom rivets? I'm only going to be using 3 as well, and that'd allow me an additional 240 if I decided my IB/7970 combo needs more chill


Correct..
However, for the Hard Drive "rack" I had to put a zip tie on the lower right portion of the 3rd drive.. cause it wouldn't securely clip together..after the zip tie.. everything is nice and secure....
That is the only downside to that mod.. I couldn't of done better... This is what I suggest doing....*let me find a picture/link for visuals* this is done with a ATCS 840*I wish cooler master would re-introduce these*

If you can see by the pictures.. the bottom portion is only "partially" cut, this would mosdef be the way to go with the 120x2 at the bottom...
If there is enough space.. another thing is the case feet bottom area, you would have to really measure properly.... I know you can't see it when everything is install and stuff.. but when you take stuff out to clean or what not... you will feel that pain *I shouldn't of done it like that* feeling...

Good Luck and have fun!!!


----------



## ROG1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sure it's enough. I would recommend a full 360 but you're not running a GPU block yet and with no RAM or GPU block you're only cooling your CPU and NB. So no need for more til you expand your loop. I'm assuming that's your idle temp on the digital display?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


mmm...120+240 rad enough to cooling 1 CPU block,1 NB block,2 GPU block for gtx680 are u sure...
my idle temp is 26 to 32c water in reservoir out..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The 840 is still available in the UK,if you are looking for one?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay first off trim your shrink by half length. That's too long.
> [snip]
> ~Ceadder


You can't be serious. He's referring to the diameter of his heatshrink not fitting the single wire. From the looks of it, he's using 1/4" heatshrink when he will need 1/8" or smaller to fit a single wire.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> mmm...120+240 rad enough to cooling 1 CPU block,1 NB block,2 GPU block for gtx680 are u sure...
> my idle temp is 26 to 32c water in reservoir out..


I think the general rule of thumb is 1 x 240 (cpu) + a 120 for every extra block in the loop, I dont think Ceader realised you were adding the 2 x 680's.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> i sent you a request.


hay man hope i helped u with a few things last nite

it was fun letting u rack my brain it wakes it up for me


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Finally had a chance to light up my rig this weekend, so this is the result. Still just short of firing it up, but at least this gave me an idea of what to expect. Since taking these pictures, I've added some 12 inch UV tubes to the top and SSD/HDD cage. My apologies for the crappy cell phone pics.

Based on this loop, does anyone have any suggestions on where I can put my quick disconnect?


----------



## ROG1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> mmm...120+240 rad enough to cooling 1 CPU block,1 NB block,2 GPU block for gtx680 are u sure...
> my idle temp is 26 to 32c water in reservoir out..
> 
> 
> 
> I think the general rule of thumb is 1 x 240 (cpu) + a 120 for every extra block in the loop, I dont think Ceader realised you were adding the 2 x 680's.
Click to expand...

ok so the best way is?..


----------



## zoson

I have 3x 120mm for CPU, Motherboard, and three 560Ti 448's.

Also one of the most beastly gulftown overclocks out there.

Lots of people use way more radiator than they need.


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> mmm...120+240 rad enough to cooling 1 CPU block,1 NB block,2 GPU block for gtx680 are u sure...
> my idle temp is 26 to 32c water in reservoir out..
> 
> 
> 
> I think the general rule of thumb is 1 x 240 (cpu) + a 120 for every extra block in the loop, I dont think Ceader realised you were adding the 2 x 680's.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ok so the best way is?..
Click to expand...

360mm of rad will cover it but I would recommend a total of 480mm of rad space. I found one 540mm rad cooled better then a 540mm plus a 120mm rad. The 120 did nothing for temps.


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> I have 3x 120mm for CPU, Motherboard, and three 560Ti 448's.
> 
> Also one of the most beastly gulftown overclocks out there.
> 
> Lots of people use way more radiator than they need.


What is your ambient and Idle temps?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For my D5,i i put the tacho wire in with one of the power wires...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish i had cut the pump end a little smaller tho....


How come I don't see your tach wire anywhere? Where is it?

@ Ceadderman

I see somewhat what you are saying but don't follow completely, who what is fshizl Dude's D5s? I have to see it to be able to do it, without a picture I don't get the picture.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> How come I don't see your tach wire anywhere? Where is it?


As i said in the post,its in with one of the power wires


----------



## Attacktrak

Exelente, felicidades, uno en habla hispana


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Finally had a chance to light up my rig this weekend, so this is the result. Still just short of firing it up, but at least this gave me an idea of what to expect. Since taking these pictures, I've added some 12 inch UV tubes to the top and SSD/HDD cage. My apologies for the crappy cell phone pics.
> Based on this loop, does anyone have any suggestions on where I can put my quick disconnect?


That's an interesting loop you have there. I really like it. What is that, three 120mm rads?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Well.... after reading through all 2046 pages, I must say, there are some pretty amazing builds. Finally have a parts list that I think will work, let me know what you guys think! I only have room for ONE radiator, and that's at the front of my case standing vertical.

-Phobya Xtreme 400mm Radiator
-Swiftech Apogee XT (Rev 2)
-Swiftech MCP35X Pump with reservoir
-Tygon 3/8 ID 1/2 OD clear chemical tubing
-12 of the Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings
-Ice Dragon coolant
-2 NZXT FN-200mm fans

I'll be cooling an i7-3770k and eventually 2 EVGA GTX 680's, yes I know GTX 690 is coming out. Everything will be going into a PowerMac G5 case. The PSU will be mounted above and I'll be using the mountain mods removable motherboard tray.

Let me know what you guys think!









Jeffinslaw

*EDIT* Forgot to mention that I'll be using two of the EK EN Nickel Plated 680 blocks eventually.


----------



## phillyd

So i got 2 sponsors (idk if im allowed to say who, so check my log in the sig)
but im getting the following parts:
Clear tubing, 3/8" 5/8"
10 White monsoons 3/8" 5/8"
Primochill Steel Blue Dye Bomb
Black Ice GTX 120mm Radiator
XSPC Raystorm AMD block
Danger Den 7970 Block
Swiftech MCP35x pump
EK IO panel
2xLamptron 8" cold cathodes

and from dwood:
7970 backplate
psu cover

*I need help!*
if my loop looks like this, how will i be able to use a fillport, wont the res overflow if i open the top?

i need to know how to orient the res to allow it to run with no cap on so i can fill it.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

How do you all end up getting sponsors? Might be worth it to get some for some upcoming builds to establish a business relationship for products.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> How do you all end up getting sponsors? Might be worth it to get some for some upcoming builds to establish a business relationship for products.


get a concept, look professional, show potential.


----------



## Heff04

I just finished putting my Loop together. I totally dig the clear tubing and colored coolant from Mayhems.


20120429-IMG_2701 by Heff04, on Flickr

'


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As i said in the post,its in with one of the power wires


I get it now, takes awhile for the caffeine to kick-in!









Question, did you shrink each cable before shrinking all 3 wires together?

Thank you


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> *I need help!*
> if my loop looks like this, how will i be able to use a fillport, wont the res overflow if i open the top?
> 
> i need to know how to orient the res to allow it to run with no cap on so i can fill it.


bump


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> bump


have the fillport tube coming out of the top of the res. You don't really have to worry about water coming up through the res and flowing over, at least it's never happened for me. You could always make the tube for the fillport long, use a qdc, or only fill it while the pump is on.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> bump


have the fillport tube coming out of the top of the res. You don't really have to worry about water coming up through the res and flowing over, at least it's never happened for me. You could always make the tube for the fillport long, use a qdc, or only fill it while the pump is on.[/quote]
thanks!
im gonna get this res:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_657&products_id=26666


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay first off trim your shrink by half length. That's too long.
> [snip]
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can't be serious. He's referring to the diameter of his heatshrink not fitting the single wire. From the looks of it, he's using 1/4" heatshrink when he will need 1/8" or smaller to fit a single wire.
Click to expand...

I know what he was referring to Mate. Might I covered that in what you left out in your reply?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> mmm...120+240 rad enough to cooling 1 CPU block,1 NB block,2 GPU block for gtx680 are u sure...
> my idle temp is 26 to 32c water in reservoir out..
> 
> 
> 
> I think the general rule of thumb is 1 x 240 (cpu) + a 120 for every extra block in the loop, I dont think Ceader realised you were adding the 2 x 680's.
Click to expand...

That's correct. Just going by the picture. That's perfectly fine. Maybe add another 120 for the GPU that I didn't realize was going to be added though.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For my D5,i i put the tacho wire in with one of the power wires...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish i had cut the pump end a little smaller tho....
> 
> 
> 
> How come I don't see your tach wire anywhere? Where is it?
> 
> @ Ceadderman
> 
> I see somewhat what you are saying but don't follow completely, who what is fshizl Dude's D5s? I have to see it to be able to do it, without a picture I don't get the picture.
Click to expand...

Well I was kinda hoping you'd do a search and come across Operation Polemos...












His sleeving work puts mine to shame imho. Course he works with it alot more than I do.









~Ceadder


----------



## solidshark91493

Just curious. What is the benifit of sleeving? does it really do anything? other than looks? persay?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Just curious. What is the benifit of sleeving? does it really do anything? other than looks? persay?


Nope not a thing other than making me address my cable management. Also probably aids in cooling somewhat too cause your cables shouldn't impede airflow.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

A buddy of mine just got his DangerDen 26 in today... Man I'm having a hard time holding off any longer to order my DD29


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For my D5,i i put the tacho wire in with one of the power wires...
> 
> Wish i had cut the pump end a little smaller tho....


*Laing D5 pump sleeving part 2*

Alright I got it this time and it looks a lot better than the first time, can't wait to get my Bitspower D5 pump top and matte black dressing kit! Oh yeah before I forget if you really want that heat shrink to get closer to the base of the back of the pump is to pull moderately hard while shrinking.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks very good Systemlord.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys, does anyone have the exact dimensions of the Phobya Xtreme 400mm radiator? Can't seem to find them... FrozenCPU doesn't have them...

Thanks, Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, does anyone have the exact dimensions of the Phobya Xtreme 400mm radiator? Can't seem to find them... FrozenCPU doesn't have them...
> Thanks, Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Specifications:
> 
> Material: Copper, brass chambers
> Colour: Matt Black completely
> Dimensions: (L x W x H): 448x200x36mm
> Ports: 4 x G1 / 4 "
> Weight: about 1700g
> Assembly: on both sides for ventilation or as a holder
> Thread size screws: M3
> Fan Size: 2x 180-200mm
> Tested pressure: 2 bar
> Other: bleed screw


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_975&products_id=32968


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Specifications:
> Material: Copper, brass chambers
> Colour: Matt Black completely
> Dimensions: (L x W x H): 448x200x36mm
> Ports: 4 x G1 / 4 "
> Weight: about 1700g
> Assembly: on both sides for ventilation or as a holder
> Thread size screws: M3
> Fan Size: 2x 180-200mm
> Tested pressure: 2 bar
> Other: bleed screw
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_975&products_id=32968
Click to expand...

Thank you very much! +rep! Forgot to look there...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## RushMore1205

Where do i buy Mayhems coolants if i live in the states???

please help me out here, should i buy the dye or do ibuy the premix that he has,

what is your guys opinion


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Where do i buy Mayhems coolants if i live in the states???
> please help me out here, should i buy the dye or do ibuy the premix that he has,
> what is your guys opinion


the mayhem website ships worldwide and they are quick, im in canada and i got my order in a week, best part shipping was only $3


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> the mayhem website ships worldwide and they are quick, im in canada and i got my order in a week, best part shipping was only $3


Yup, just order from them directly.

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/en/


----------



## wermad

Double post









Didn't know Mayhems has their own cpu block











http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/en/water-cooling-blocks/146-dt-5noz-intel-cpu-block-1234567.html


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Double post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't know Mayhems has their own cpu block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/en/water-cooling-blocks/146-dt-5noz-intel-cpu-block-1234567.html


Looks like a rebranded version of DT 5Noz


----------



## Bouf0010

its the same block with the same name


----------



## ShortAlieN

yeah, kind of cheap lookin, but it's good to know that they ship to the states. Been wondering how to get some of that coolant. Thanks for the help!

Next question though. I see that it is a Nano fluid. Does this stuff leave the same residue that Ice Dragon does?


----------



## nycste

So I know there was a bunch of talk back and fourth but just curious what are the recommendations at this point for a basic fan controller ideally looking for CD bay size black in color led color either adjustable or removeable and have at least 4 knobs 6 is ok but prob cost more all for around 20-40 bucks. Unless there is one for 50 that is 10x better and comes with higher recommendations I just cannot seem to pinpoint one yet.

Other comments
-i got a gift card to bestbuy for 25bucks i would love to spend any ideas on what? im trying to see if they sell fan controllers
-i got gift cards to the egg of the new as well, so thats most likely my place of purchase but im open to others like cpu frozen or what not.

thanks, PS i got the 700D

I should prob mention i also have 2 fan controllers that i cannot stand

1. aerocool gatewatcher 2 i believe its in my sig (max rpm per channel says 1000rpm that just wont cut it, plus im missing thermal plugs= makes unit blink-u can disable)
2. vantec nexus 4 knobs blue leds (damn thing buzzes my ears off forces me to keep brand new Yates at full speed vs buzz)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I get it now, takes awhile for the caffeine to kick-in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question, did you shrink each cable before shrinking all 3 wires together?
> Thank you


Nah,just shrunk them all together.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Double post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't know Mayhems has their own cpu block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/en/water-cooling-blocks/146-dt-5noz-intel-cpu-block-1234567.html


I am part of Mayhems testing team,that block is primarily for use with Aurora,due to the exceptional flowrate.


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys this is my rig. Just started really getting into water cooling. Any advice or tips will be greatly apreciated. Hope you guys like what you see so foar. I have a few more things to get done before she's all done.













This is my third water set-up. The first two were an H50 and a Larkooler iWater 300 set-up in this same case. I decided I wanted something that looked and of course performed better so I decided to build my own set-up. I started by changing out all the barbs,tubingpump and reservoir. I kinda liked the look of the Larkooler chrome radiator and chrome cpu block and since my budget was pretty tight I kept those and swapped out everything else. For now


----------



## siffonen

Small update for my rig,:


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys this is my rig. Just started really getting into water cooling. Any advice or tips will be greatly apreciated. Hope you guys like what you see so foar. I have a few more things to get done before she's all done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my third water set-up. The first two were an H50 and a Larkooler iWater 300 set-up in this same case. I decided I wanted something that looked and of course performed better so I decided to build my own set-up. I started by changing out all the barbs,tubingpump and reservoir. I kinda liked the look of the Larkooler chrome radiator and chrome cpu block and since my budget was pretty tight I kept those and swapped out everything else. For now


so your radiator is getting air from the front? do you have to leave that door open?


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys this is my rig. Just started really getting into water cooling. Any advice or tips will be greatly apreciated. Hope you guys like what you see so foar. I have a few more things to get done before she's all done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my third water set-up. The first two were an H50 and a Larkooler iWater 300 set-up in this same case. I decided I wanted something that looked and of course performed better so I decided to build my own set-up. I started by changing out all the barbs,tubingpump and reservoir. I kinda liked the look of the Larkooler chrome radiator and chrome cpu block and since my budget was pretty tight I kept those and swapped out everything else. For now


I would really apreciate if you added my name to the club when you have a chance. Thanks in advance.














:thumb:


----------



## Krahe

Hi Chino, rig looks great, Ideally the pump should be below the res to ensure it always gets fluid, saves it from ever running dry as it will damage the pump if it does.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Looks like a rebranded version of DT 5Noz


It isn't even rebranded. They just seem to be just a reseller for the block.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> A buddy of mine just got his DangerDen 26 in today... Man I'm having a hard time holding off any longer to order my DD29


And so it begins


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> yeah, kind of cheap lookin, but it's good to know that they ship to the states. Been wondering how to get some of that coolant. Thanks for the help!
> Next question though. I see that it is a Nano fluid. Does this stuff leave the same residue that Ice Dragon does?


Dont know, but maybe this will help you out.

"Mayhems Pastel range of Nano coolants have been in development for over 2 years with co-operation between Ice Dragon Cooling and Mayhems. This new range of coolants surpasses anything in the market place at the moment with its outstanding colours and cooling power.
Mayhems new pastel range incorporates many different technologies into one product from dyes to nano fluids and of course a litlle Mayhems magic. With a system working life of about 2 years this fluid is designed to last a long time."
*
"Before Using Mayhems Pastel range*
The system must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the system. There must be no bleach, biocide and anti corrosive inhibitors. We recommend you flush your system with either DI water or Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 before use. Mayhems Pastel has biocides and inhibitors included in the mixture."

Also you can get Mayhem's Aurora and Pastel Concentrate here > http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Mayhem


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Dont know, but maybe this will help you out.
> "Mayhems Pastel range of Nano coolants have been in development for over 2 years with co-operation between Ice Dragon Cooling and Mayhems. This new range of coolants surpasses anything in the market place at the moment with its outstanding colours and cooling power.
> Mayhems new pastel range incorporates many different technologies into one product from dyes to nano fluids and of course a litlle Mayhems magic. With a system working life of about 2 years this fluid is designed to last a long time."
> *
> "Before Using Mayhems Pastel range*
> The system must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the system. There must be no bleach, biocide and anti corrosive inhibitors. We recommend you flush your system with either DI water or Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 before use. Mayhems Pastel has biocides and inhibitors included in the mixture."
> Also you can get Mayhem's Aurora and Pastel Concentrate here > http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Mayhem


The base is IDC and it does leave a slight residue due to wall effect on the fluid.
This stuff comes into its own on 40c + temps so really good on passive or restricted rad area loops.
I will be testing a thermodynamic variant soon as Mayhem sends me it,this changes colour as temp rises....

Go to Specialtech.co.uk and go to the forums for more info on this

in the meantime...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Where do i buy Mayhems coolants if i live in the states???
> please help me out here, should i buy the dye or do ibuy the premix that he has,
> what is your guys opinion


Right here


----------



## mironccr345

PerformancePC only sells the Mayhem Concentrated ones, which you'll have to dilute with Distilled Water. But if you do not prefer diluting the consecrated coolant, you can buy the 1LT coolant from Mayhem's website. Hopefully FrozenCPU or PerformancePC will sell the non-concentrated ones soon.


----------



## Attacktrak

Yup, but we can buy it in Aquatuning/US check it out.







so you can see your self what you want from this web site.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> So I know there was a bunch of talk back and fourth but just curious what are the recommendations at this point for a basic fan controller ideally looking for CD bay size black in color led color either adjustable or removeable and have at least 4 knobs 6 is ok but prob cost more all for around 20-40 bucks. Unless there is one for 50 that is 10x better and comes with higher recommendations I just cannot seem to pinpoint one yet.
> 
> Other comments
> -i got a gift card to bestbuy for 25bucks i would love to spend any ideas on what? im trying to see if they sell fan controllers
> -i got gift cards to the egg of the new as well, so thats most likely my place of purchase but im open to others like cpu frozen or what not.
> 
> thanks, PS i got the 700D
> 
> I should prob mention i also have 2 fan controllers that i cannot stand
> 
> 1. aerocool gatewatcher 2 i believe its in my sig (max rpm per channel says 1000rpm that just wont cut it, plus im missing thermal plugs= makes unit blink-u can disable)
> 2. vantec nexus 4 knobs blue leds (damn thing buzzes my ears off forces me to keep brand new Yates at full speed vs buzz)



Sunbeam RheoSmart 6

I have the Rheosmart 3 Channel version an it's a damned good controller. Sturdy construction. It does have a mesh grill face but if you mount it further into the bay you can put a cover over it to stealth it.









Okay what the hell is goin on with huddler? Can't even answer more than one post at a time. Great job with OCN Huddler what do you do for an encore, launch an all out nuclear offensive?









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> PerformancePC only sells the Mayhem Concentrated ones, which you'll have to dilute with Distilled Water. But if you do not prefer diluting the
> 
> 
> consecrated
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> coolant, you can buy the 1LT coolant from Mayhem's website. Hopefully FrozenCPU or PerformancePC will sell the non-concentrated ones soon
> 
> 
> .


lololo *concentrated


----------



## kcuestag

http://www.overclock.net/t/1249660/help-choose-my-wc-loop-installation/10#post_17133519

It seems like I could get more attention here, so I'll post it here. I'm in the process of building a custom loop for the first time (I'm a bit nervous







), and I am still not sure which CPU block to choose:

1. EK Supreme LTX - Plexi

2. EK Supreme HF - Plexi

3. EK Supreme HF - Acetal

The "good" thing about the first one is the price, I can get it for less than 25€ (used though for a few months), but it also makes me wonder if it's any good as it is quite cheap.

Out of the 3, I prefer the HF Plexi (2nd) which is a bit more expensive, although a friend suggested the HF Acetal as it is more resistant. Which one should I go for, and why? I'm only planning on cooling an i7 2600k @ 5GHz (~1.42v).


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> so your radiator is getting air from the front? do you have to leave that door open?


No I have two 120 fans up top pushing air into the case through the radiator. So far it's running pretty good that way. I ran intel burn test and at the highest point I saw the high 50's about 56-58 I would say. When I have a chance I'm going to try it with the two top fans running as exhaust see if it makes any difference. I also changed the front stock bay covers with some nice black mesh filtered ones. The hole were alil smaller than the front and top grilles holes but they still match pretty well I think.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Hi Chino, rig looks great, Ideally the pump should be below the res to ensure it always gets fluid, saves it from ever running dry as it will damage the pump if it does.


Thanks for the input. I was wondering about that. I'll try and see if I can mount the res alil higher. I kinda like it where it's sitting now so I'll see how much higher I can move it in the same spot. I was also thinking of maybe taking out the bottom intake fan and placing the pump there and maybe having dwood make me a nice cover for the whole bottom section. Something that might cover the hd cage and water pump. Not sure if I wanna cover my psu seeing that it looks so sweet! Lol!!!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> so your radiator is getting air from the front? do you have to leave that door open?
> 
> 
> 
> No I have two 120 fans up top pushing air into the case through the radiator. So far it's running pretty good that way. I ran intel burn test and at the highest point I saw the high 50's about 56-58 I would say. When I have a chance I'm going to try it with the two top fans running as exhaust see if it makes any difference. I also changed the front stock bay covers with some nice black mesh filtered ones. The hole were alil smaller than the front and top grilles holes but they still match pretty well I think.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Hi Chino, rig looks great, Ideally the pump should be below the res to ensure it always gets fluid, saves it from ever running dry as it will damage the pump if it does.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. I was wondering about that. I'll try and see if I can mount the res alil higher. I kinda like it where it's sitting now so I'll see how much higher I can move it in the same spot. I was also thinking of maybe taking out the bottom intake fan and placing the pump there and maybe having dwood make me a nice cover for the whole bottom section. Something that might cover the hd cage and water pump. Not sure if I wanna cover my psu seeing that it looks so sweet! Lol!!!
Click to expand...

you should put the res in the 5.25's, and move the pump so you can put ur rad in the top 120mm front mount, youll probably get better temps


----------



## Attacktrak

Hi guys, have ever seen this kind of problem?







this really pisses me off when i test loop


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1249660/help-choose-my-wc-loop-installation/10#post_17133519
> It seems like I could get more attention here, so I'll post it here. I'm in the process of building a custom loop for the first time (I'm a bit nervous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), and I am still not sure which CPU block to choose:
> 1. EK Supreme LTX - Plexi
> 2. EK Supreme HF - Plexi
> 3. EK Supreme HF - Acetal
> The "good" thing about the first one is the price, I can get it for less than 25€ (used though for a few months), but it also makes me wonder if it's any good as it is quite cheap.
> Out of the 3, I prefer the HF Plexi (2nd) which is a bit more expensive, although a friend suggested the HF Acetal as it is more resistant. Which one should I go for, and why? I'm only planning on cooling an i7 2600k @ 5GHz (~1.42v).


I recommend the acetal,purely for durability,the hf is a solid block and is a great performer
I have heard of the plexi version cracking around the threads but I am sure that's because of heavy handed fitting


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you should put the res in the 5.25's, and move the pump so you can put ur rad in the top 120mm front mount, youll probably get better temps


My rad won't fit up front unless I pull out the hd cage and I'd probably still have to do some dremeling. It's a 240 rad that's why I put it up top. as for the res going in the front 5.25 bays I might try that out see how it looks and works.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> *Laing D5 pump sleeving part 2*
> Alright I got it this time and it looks a lot better than the first time, can't wait to get my Bitspower D5 pump top and matte black dressing kit! Oh yeah before I forget if you really want that heat shrink to get closer to the base of the back of the pump is to pull moderately hard while shrinking.


Glad i could help!
I am wondering why you didnt convert to a 3pin fan connector tho? Unless you are not using a controller?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The base is IDC and it does leave a slight residue due to wall effect on the fluid.
> This stuff comes into its own on 40c + temps so really good on passive or restricted rad area loops.
> I will be testing a thermodynamic variant soon as Mayhem sends me it,this changes colour as temp rises....
> Go to Specialtech.co.uk and go to the forums for more info on this
> in the meantime...


Wow that is amazing to say the least, I never seen anything quite like it! In the future if I consider going color coolant it will be Mayhem's for sure!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Glad i could help!
> I am wondering why you didnt convert to a 3pin fan connector tho? Unless you are not using a controller?


I never got around to asking about your picture of that 3-pin connector, I was unaware that you could convert to a 3-pin connector. How in the would can a fan controller handle to amperage of these Laing pumps? I guess that's alright since I'll be connecting it up directly to the PSU and the fact that I already have control over pump speed of 1-5 speed adjustment.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Attacktrak, are those cracks/chips in the acrylic? I can't really tell from the pictures what the problem is.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Attacktrak, are those cracks/chips in the acrylic? I can't really tell from the pictures what the problem is.


Either that, or maybe the LED holes are drilled incorrectly, causing a leak.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1249660/help-choose-my-wc-loop-installation/10#post_17133519
> It seems like I could get more attention here, so I'll post it here. I'm in the process of building a custom loop for the first time (I'm a bit nervous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), and I am still not sure which CPU block to choose:
> 1. EK Supreme LTX - Plexi
> 2. EK Supreme HF - Plexi
> 3. EK Supreme HF - Acetal
> The "good" thing about the first one is the price, I can get it for less than 25€ (used though for a few months), but it also makes me wonder if it's any good as it is quite cheap.
> Out of the 3, I prefer the HF Plexi (2nd) which is a bit more expensive, although a friend suggested the HF Acetal as it is more resistant. Which one should I go for, and why? I'm only planning on cooling an i7 2600k @ 5GHz (~1.42v).
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend the acetal,purely for durability,the hf is a solid block and is a great performer
> I have heard of the plexi version cracking around the threads but I am sure that's because of heavy handed fitting
Click to expand...

Acetyal is no more durable than Acrylic. If you accidentally crossthread in acetal your top is borked and warranty won't cover it. I would go with either of the HF units to be quite honest. I have the Acrylic v1 roundtop and it's quite good. I'm running plate5 in it at the moment. Gonna upgrade to Plate6 to see if I can get another Celcius off my overall temp. If not I'm not gonna sweat the 99cents.









You just have to make sure you don't wrench down on the acrylic or the acetal and make sure not to crossthread the fittings or screws. That's the main thing. If you wrench down too much on acrylic you can crack or get microfractures in the structure. Just some important stuff to keep in mind when dealing with those two product materials. What I do is wrench em tight(finger tightened) plus a slight (1/4) turn to make sure the seal is intact. The Oring should have enough give in it to allow it to be compressed that much.









Nothing wrong with the LT block, it's just not the same as the HF but it's a reasonable block for someone just getting into Water Cooling or EK would probably not include them in their kits. That's probably why it's so cheap. Bought as part of the kit and the bloke wants the HF block.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Attacktrak, are those cracks/chips in the acrylic? I can't really tell from the pictures what the problem is.
> 
> 
> 
> Either that, or maybe the LED holes are drilled incorrectly, causing a leak.
Click to expand...

This. That LED socket seems to be right on top of the thread. That's not good.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I never got around to asking about your picture of that 3-pin connector, I was unaware that you could convert to a 3-pin connector. How in the would can a fan controller handle to amperage of these Laing pumps? I guess that's alright since I'll be connecting it up directly to the PSU and the fact that I already have control over pump speed of 1-5 speed adjustment.


The D5 pulls around 23w full bore,a FC5 with 30w per channel is more than capable of controlling it
EDIT: gave 24v spec instead of 12v..23w instead of 28w
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Acetyal is no more durable than Acrylic. If you accidentally crossthread in acetal your top is borked and warranty won't cover it. I would go with either of the HF units to be quite honest. I have the Acrylic v1 roundtop and it's quite good. I'm running plate5 in it at the moment. Gonna upgrade to Plate6 to see if I can get another Celcius off my overall temp. If not I'm not gonna sweat the 99cents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You just have to make sure you don't wrench down on the acrylic or the acetal and make sure not to crossthread the fittings or screws. That's the main thing. If you wrench down too much on acrylic you can crack or get microfractures in the structure. Just some important stuff to keep in mind when dealing with those two product materials. What I do is wrench em tight(finger tightened) plus a slight (1/4) turn to make sure the seal is intact. The Oring should have enough give in it to allow it to be compressed that much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with the LT block, it's just not the same as the HF but it's a reasonable block for someone just getting into Water Cooling or EK would probably not include them in their kits. That's probably why it's so cheap. Bought as part of the kit and the bloke wants the HF block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Acetal is more forgiving than plexi,plexi is more brittle.
More importantly,a smear of silicone grease on the o-ring will help greatly with watertightness and preservation of the ring itself
As for crossthreading,no manu will cover that,regardless of material,although you can re-tap easily by hand if you ruin the threads.
And there are no such things as learner blocks,HF is the better block regardless of skill or experience...


----------



## Fultonloyn

Ordred some Ap-15s today..Got three to add to the back of my RS360 rad. I already have 3 Cougar Vortexs on the front. adding these 3 too the back for a sweet puch pull set up!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Ordred some Ap-15s today..Got three to add to the back of my RS360 rad. I already have 3 Cougar Vortexs on the front. adding these 3 too the back for a sweet puch pull set up!


You should match the fans really so they work together,RPM's dont matter as much as matching airflow.
The weaker fans will wear fast.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You should match the fans really so they work together,RPM's dont matter as much as matching airflow.
> The weaker fans will wear fast.


I know, but I have had the others for a while and have a controller so they will match RPM.

EDIT: sorry just reread this. What i mean was...so i can match the RPM's to hopefully match airflow...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> I know, but I have had the others for a while and have a controller so they will match RPM.


Its not really about RPM,if one fan moves 50 CFM at 2000rpm and the other moves 30CFM at 2000rpm,its un balanced


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you should put the res in the 5.25's, and move the pump so you can put ur rad in the top 120mm front mount, youll probably get better temps
> 
> 
> 
> My rad won't fit up front unless I pull out the hd cage and I'd probably still have to do some dremeling. It's a 240 rad that's why I put it up top. as for the res going in the front 5.25 bays I might try that out see how it looks and works.
Click to expand...

oooooohhh for some dumb reason i thought it was a 120 in the cages.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not really about RPM,if one fan moves 50 CFM at 2000rpm and the other moves 30CFM at 2000rpm,its un balanced


Sorry, i edited the prior post to say, match airflow. Or as close as i can calculate and guess. Haha. This is only temp anyways. Going to start a new build this summer, so I will get all AP-15's at that point.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I never got around to asking about your picture of that 3-pin connector, I was unaware that you could convert to a 3-pin connector. How in the would can a fan controller handle to amperage of these Laing pumps? I guess that's alright since I'll be connecting it up directly to the PSU and the fact that I already have control over pump speed of 1-5 speed adjustment.


It shouldn't use more than 6-12w. I had one converted to 3-pin and hooked up to my old Scythe controller (12w per channel). You can buy the pins from most sites and electronic stores. Just match the wires (Ground, 12v, rpm sensor)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It shouldn't use more than 6-12w. I had one converted to 3-pin and hooked up to my old Scythe controller (12w per channel). You can buy the pins from most sites and electronic stores. Just match the wires (Ground, 12v, rpm sensor)


A D5 uses a lot more than 12w.
Technical specifications:
Dimensions (WxHxD): 65x65x57mm (without connectors)
Motor: Electronically commuted spherical motor
Rated voltage: 12V DC
Power consumption: *23W*
Permitted voltage range: 8-24V DC
Pressure head at 12V: 3,7m
Maximum flow: 1500l/h
Pumped media: Water, water/glycol mixtures (glycol in very small portions)
Maximum system temperature: 60°C
Materials: Stainless steel 1.4571, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
Special features: Adjustable in five steps
Step 1: 1800 rpm
Step 2: 2550 rpm
Step 3: 3300 rpm
Step 4: 4050 rpm
Step 5: 4800 rpm
Power connector: 4 Pin Molex

Warranty: 1 year

I have 2 24v D5's in my SR-2 build...they draw close to 28w


----------



## mm67

6 - 12 W sounds like MCP350


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> 6 - 12 W sounds like MCP350


Exactly.
They come in 10w and 18w flavours if i am not mistaken?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I never got around to asking about your picture of that 3-pin connector, I was unaware that you could convert to a 3-pin connector. How in the would can a fan controller handle to amperage of these Laing pumps? I guess that's alright since I'll be connecting it up directly to the PSU and the fact that I already have control over pump speed of 1-5 speed adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> The D5 pulls around 28w full bore,a FC5 with 30w per channel is more than capable of controlling it
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Acetyal is no more durable than Acrylic. If you accidentally crossthread in acetal your top is borked and warranty won't cover it. I would go with either of the HF units to be quite honest. I have the Acrylic v1 roundtop and it's quite good. I'm running plate5 in it at the moment. Gonna upgrade to Plate6 to see if I can get another Celcius off my overall temp. If not I'm not gonna sweat the 99cents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You just have to make sure you don't wrench down on the acrylic or the acetal and make sure not to crossthread the fittings or screws. That's the main thing. If you wrench down too much on acrylic you can crack or get microfractures in the structure. Just some important stuff to keep in mind when dealing with those two product materials. What I do is wrench em tight(finger tightened) plus a slight (1/4) turn to make sure the seal is intact. The Oring should have enough give in it to allow it to be compressed that much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with the LT block, it's just not the same as the HF but it's a reasonable block for someone just getting into Water Cooling or EK would probably not include them in their kits. That's probably why it's so cheap. Bought as part of the kit and the bloke wants the HF block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Acetal is more forgiving than plexi,plexi is more brittle.
> More importantly,a smear of silicone grease on the o-ring will help greatly with watertightness and preservation of the ring itself
> As for crossthreading,no manu will cover that,regardless of material,although you can re-tap easily by hand if you ruin the threads.
> And there are no such things as learner blocks,HF is the better block regardless of skill or experience...
Click to expand...

I consider any block that comes with a kit to be "learner" blocks. Not that that's what they are, but you an I agree that the HF is the better block option. I use PTFE tape(silicon pipe tape) to wrap my threads with so between that and the ORing, I don't get leaks at the thread.

Acetal is no worse nor no better than Acrylic. If you force it you can bork the threads even if the fitting went in cleanly. Not quite sure where you were going there but this is the truth. Things can happen when you overtighten hardware regardless of what the top is made out of.









I've had possession of both versions of HF block in acrylic and have to say that I find that to be quite sturdy. If you got gorilla mitts on the ends of your arms I'm not sure that either style would hold up very well. It's pretty much down to whichever suits his build really.









Oh and just a bit of fyi. Nothing super important but a D5 vario is not the same as a D5. I believe the specs you listed were for the Vario and not the base model D5. So the total Wattage will not be the same from the Koolance D5 shown versus the Vario. Unless we're talking about another bloke with a D5 vario. Then you can simple disregard this as abject talkin just to hear my gums flap.









~Ceadder


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly.
> They come in 10w and 18w flavours if i am not mistaken?


Swiftech lists 8.3 -12 W as nominal values for MCP350 and 14-19 W for MCP355


----------



## skitzab1

2 280 and 1 400 mm







squeezed into a storm trooper
























































































sleep time i think









hope you guys like !!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I consider any block that comes with a kit to be "learner" blocks. Not that that's what they are, but you an I agree that the HF is the better block option. I use PTFE tape(silicon pipe tape) to wrap my threads with so between that and the ORing, I don't get leaks at the thread.
> Acetal is no worse nor no better than Acrylic. If you force it you can bork the threads even if the fitting went in cleanly. Not quite sure where you were going there but this is the truth. Things can happen when you overtighten hardware regardless of what the top is made out of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had possession of both versions of HF block in acrylic and have to say that I find that to be quite sturdy. If you got gorilla mitts on the ends of your arms I'm not sure that either style would hold up very well. It's pretty much down to whichever suits his build really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and just a bit of fyi. Nnothing super important but a D5 vario is not the same as a D5. I believe the specs you listed were for the Vario and not the base model D5. So the total Wattage will not be the same from the Koolance D5 shown versus the Vario. Unless we're talking about another bloke with a D5 vario. Then you can simple disregard this as abject talkin just to hear my gums flap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


1. The D5 Vario and the normal D5 only differ by having a 5 way switch on the back for speed control,i know..i have both. And before you say 'thats not koolance',it doesnt matter,they are all laing rebrands anyway
2. PTFE tape is not required on WC threads,in fact it can damage them by stressing the threads....No WC loop i have made or seen requires it. And yes,that also applies to Iwaki rd series pumps

Specifications:

Model name: MCP655-B (Basic Version, No Speed Controller)
Nominal Voltage: 12 VDC
Operating Voltage range: 6 - 14 VDC
Nominal Power (@12 V): *24 W*
Nominal Current (@12 V): 2 Amp
Motor Type: Brushless, microprocessor controlled
Maximum Head: 11 ft. (3.35 m)
Maximum Discharge: ~ 317 GPH (1200 LPH)
Connection Size: 1/2" barbs
Maximum Pressure: 50 PSI (3.5 BAR)
Temperature Range: 32 - 140 F (0 - 60 C)
Electrical Connector: 4pin Molex
Weight: 1.4 lb (650 g)
Impeller Housing Material: Noryl®
Notes: Includes impeller RPM monitoring capability (via. 3-pin connector)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/lad5smcin12v.html

Please research before answering,incorrect info costs equipment


----------



## Ceadderman

B... Bro, why the insistence on using uber large print though? I'm not saying you're wrong. Just noticed the slight irregularity with the pump you were referring to and the pump you listed the specs on. Chill kay? Have a Pint on me if you need. Lemme know your PPal an I'll buy.

This is really the only issue I have with your last few posts. We're not blind nor ignorant don't need the emphatic display of you being correct.









I use PTFE tape. I don't abuse it. Wrap til it covers the end of the tape, just a mm or two more an that's all you need. Make sure to stretch the tape as you apply it and it should fill any gap left in the production process. Nothing is 100% on spec. There is a margin of error in the tolerances and just cause it fits like it's supposed to by feel doesn't mean that it fits like it's supposed to by spec.

Anyway, not tryin ta be argumentative with you B. Hope that's not how you're taking my input here.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A D5 uses a lot more than 12w.
> Technical specifications:
> Dimensions (WxHxD): 65x65x57mm (without connectors)
> Motor: Electronically commuted spherical motor
> Rated voltage: 12V DC
> Power consumption: *23W*
> Permitted voltage range: 8-24V DC
> Pressure head at 12V: 3,7m
> Maximum flow: 1500l/h
> Pumped media: Water, water/glycol mixtures (glycol in very small portions)
> Maximum system temperature: 60°C
> Materials: Stainless steel 1.4571, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
> Special features: Adjustable in five steps
> Step 1: 1800 rpm
> Step 2: 2550 rpm
> Step 3: 3300 rpm
> Step 4: 4050 rpm
> Step 5: 4800 rpm
> Power connector: 4 Pin Molex
> Warranty: 1 year
> I have 2 24v D5's in my SR-2 build...they draw close to 28w


Thanks for clearing that up. I'm at work the computer I'm using blocks ppcs.com and swiftech.com. I didn't notice any difference when hooked up to the controller or the psu directly. I did find it too loud and very hard to purge (even in mode #4) so I switched back to the DDC 3.2. Plus I like the compact size of the DDC. I did get a DD D5 which I'm sure is no different than the oem D5.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> B... Bro, why the insistence on using uber large print though? I'm not saying you're wrong. Just noticed the slight irregularity with the pump you were referring to and the pump you listed the specs on. Chill kay? Have a Pint on me if you need. Lemme know your PPal an I'll buy.
> This is really the only issue I have with your last few posts. We're not blind nor ignorant don't need the emphatic display of you being correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use PTFE tape. I don't abuse it. Wrap til it covers the end of the tape, just a mm or two more an that's all you need. Make sure to stretch the tape as you apply it and it should fill any gap left in the production process. Nothing is 100% on spec. There is a margin of error in the tolerances and just cause it fits like it's supposed to by feel doesn't mean that it fits like it's supposed to by spec.
> Anyway, not tryin ta be argumentative with you B. Hope that's not how you're taking my input here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It was a bit large....apologies.
I am acutely aware that information we give must be correct as some people use us a resource,incorrect info costs money to somebody....as it has cost me before (max voltage....i went over it....by a long way...cost me dear)....i dont mean to come off all rabid.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks for clearing that up. I'm at work the computer I'm using blocks ppcs.com and swiftech.com. I didn't notice any difference when hooked up to the controller or the psu directly. I did find it too loud and very hard to purge (even in mode #4) so I switched back to the DDC 3.2. Plus I like the compact size of the DDC. I did get a DD D5 which I'm sure is no different than the oem D5.


DDC's have the edge with restrictive loops,D5's are more for flowing loops...unless you rock a 24v. if you could marry a DDC impeller with a D5 motor.....i wonder.....
Do you have the heat issues which seem to arise with them? I use D5's purely for that reason,replaced too many laing boards for those DIY boards for people and always see the same damage.
If a D5 is loud,try remounting the pump top,sometimes this is a cure...mine is on silicone washers,bolted to my bench,although my kazes may be drowning it out..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Delete. Double post.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I use PTFE tape. I don't abuse it. Wrap til it covers the end of the tape, just a mm or two more an that's all you need. Make sure to stretch the tape as you apply it and it should fill any gap left in the production process. Nothing is 100% on spec. There is a margin of error in the tolerances and just cause it fits like it's supposed to by feel doesn't mean that it fits like it's supposed to by spec.


That's what the o-ring is for. If you need plumber's tape to prevent a leak, there are bigger problems to worry about.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> B... Bro, why the insistence on using uber large print though? I'm not saying you're wrong. Just noticed the slight irregularity with the pump you were referring to and the pump you listed the specs on. Chill kay? Have a Pint on me if you need. Lemme know your PPal an I'll buy.
> This is really the only issue I have with your last few posts. We're not blind nor ignorant don't need the emphatic display of you being correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use PTFE tape. I don't abuse it. Wrap til it covers the end of the tape, just a mm or two more an that's all you need. Make sure to stretch the tape as you apply it and it should fill any gap left in the production process. Nothing is 100% on spec. There is a margin of error in the tolerances and just cause it fits like it's supposed to by feel doesn't mean that it fits like it's supposed to by spec.
> Anyway, not tryin ta be argumentative with you B. Hope that's not how you're taking my input here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a bit large....apologies.
> I am acutely aware that information we give must be correct as some people use us a resource,incorrect info costs money to somebody....as it has cost me before (max voltage....i went over it....by a long way...cost me dear)....i dont mean to come off all rabid.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks for clearing that up. I'm at work the computer I'm using blocks ppcs.com and swiftech.com. I didn't notice any difference when hooked up to the controller or the psu directly. I did find it too loud and very hard to purge (even in mode #4) so I switched back to the DDC 3.2. Plus I like the compact size of the DDC. I did get a DD D5 which I'm sure is no different than the oem D5.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> DDC's have the edge with restrictive loops,D5's are more for flowing loops...unless you rock a 24v. if you could marry a DDC impeller with a D5 motor.....i wonder.....
> Do you have the heat issues which seem to arise with them? I use D5's purely for that reason,replaced too many laing boards for those DIY boards for people and always see the same damage.
> If a D5 is loud,try remounting the pump top,sometimes this is a cure...mine is on silicone washers,bolted to my bench,although my kazes may be drowning it out..
Click to expand...

is all good brotha, I completely understand.









Got my 2nd DDC-1T from bmav today. Was gonna change connectors from the flat 4 pin and noticed that this one was an actual PWM connector. Prolly still change it so it fits next to my main pump on the Controller but these little pumps really are amazing. I think as long as you have airflow getting to them they aren't as hot as is being made of them. I have my pump off the metal surface using packing foam strips so the air blows underneath them. I think that's really the important thing. Mounting them where there is good airflow. They aren't at all noisy either. Yeah I can hear them when the door is off my system but my fans drown em out for the most part.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I use PTFE tape. I don't abuse it. Wrap til it covers the end of the tape, just a mm or two more an that's all you need. Make sure to stretch the tape as you apply it and it should fill any gap left in the production process. Nothing is 100% on spec. There is a margin of error in the tolerances and just cause it fits like it's supposed to by feel doesn't mean that it fits like it's supposed to by spec.
> 
> 
> 
> That's what the o-ring is for. If you need plumber's tape to prevent a leak, there are bigger problems to worry about.
Click to expand...

Sorry might be my OCD getting the best of me here but is there something wrong with being committed to a leak free seal?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DDC's have the edge with restrictive loops,D5's are more for flowing loops...unless you rock a 24v. if you could marry a DDC impeller with a D5 motor.....i wonder.....
> Do you have the heat issues which seem to arise with them? I use D5's purely for that reason,replaced too many laing boards for those DIY boards for people and always see the same damage.
> If a D5 is loud,try remounting the pump top,sometimes this is a cure...mine is on silicone washers,bolted to my bench,although my kazes may be drowning it out..


I had it mounted in in an xspc bay res. The res did come with much beefier rubber pads to help with vibrations than previous xspc bay reservoirs I had tried. I did try it outside though using the stock top and it was about the same. I did have a DDC 3.2 inside an xspc bay res it did get hot. Hot enough that I added a slot fan-blower to cool it. Since then, I haven't ran my DDCs in a bay res. They do quite well outside as long as you have some airflow to them. Miine current one is sitting in between the front mounted 480 and the rear mounted 360. I've had quite a few complex loops and the DDC has never failed me, especially with an aftermarket top. The only nagging issue is that the wires are a thicker gauge and they easily come loose. Easy solution would be to solder on a smaller gauge wires or just solder on a few small lengths of smaller gauge wire and crimp on new pins.


----------



## just a noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> is all good brotha, I completely understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my 2nd DDC-1T from bmav today. Was gonna change connectors from the flat 4 pin and noticed that this one was an actual PWM connector. Prolly still change it so it fits next to my main pump on the Controller but these little pumps really are amazing. I think as long as you have airflow getting to them they aren't as hot as is being made of them. I have my pump off the metal surface using packing foam strips so the air blows underneath them. I think that's really the important thing. Mounting them where there is good airflow. They aren't at all noisy either. Yeah I can hear them when the door is off my system but my fans drown em out for the most part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry might be my OCD getting the best of me here but is there something wrong with being committed to a leak free seal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, you're going to put a little bit too much teflon tape on that fitting and crack the block top


----------



## HOTDOGS

So I just bought two Blademasters for PWM on my Antec H20 620, was that a bad idea? Should you now have PWM fans on a radiator? Also I'm going to have a push pull PWM config, should I have the push syncing the pull or vice versa?


----------



## phillyd

yall are insane, do you think my loop will do well?
pump is one of bmav's
and the res is a Bitspower BP-DDCT2-CL DDC Mini Water Tank Plus, 85 ml.


----------



## solidshark91493

You gonna have a drain in your loop? And how are you planning to fill the res without it overflowing?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> yall are insane, do you think my loop will do well?
> pump is one of bmav's
> and the res is a Bitspower BP-DDCT2-CL DDC Mini Water Tank Plus, 85 ml.


800D build: *one* DDC 3.2: pump> three gpu blocks, mb block, cpu block, ram block, two 480mm radiators, & res. I'm sure your pump w/ an aftermarket top will handle your loop well


----------



## Systemlord

I'm running a DDC 3.25 18W pump and find even when mounted to a UN Design pump mount with Gel Stuff under that, it still runs HOT on the base but is extremely quiet! I have heard that the D5's run cooler and last a long time and are cooled better, I would rather dump a little more heat into my loop if it means longer pump life -reliability. I tend to run higher flowing blocks anyways, I'm not knocking the DDC at all. I would rather the heat enter my loop, I also hear that the D5s are a little bit quieter.


----------



## phillyd

thanks








*for those of you with bmav's pumps!*
is there anything special i need to know about powering it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *for those of you with bmav's pumps!*
> is there anything special i need to know about powering it?


he does link to a page to figure wire leads if yours didn't come with a connector. You can always crimp on some pins and convert it to 3-pin.


----------



## phillyd

it has a 6pin fan sized connector with 3 pins...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> it has a 6pin fan sized connector with 3 pins...


find the 12v and the ground, crimp on pins or solder on a fan cable w/ connector.

edit: its a good opportunity to learn soldering or crimping pins.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> it has a 6pin fan sized connector with 3 pins...
> 
> 
> 
> find the 12v and the ground, crimp on pins or solder on a fan cable w/ connector.
> 
> edit: its a good opportunity to learn soldering or crimping pins.
Click to expand...

how do i find the 12v and ground?
and ill probably just twist the wires into a psu connector's wires.
i can solder, just hate it.
and dnt wanna buy a crimper, or the pins


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how do i find the 12v and ground?
> and ill probably just twist the wires into a psu connector's wires.
> i can solder, just hate it.
> and dnt wanna buy a crimper, or the pins


BMav has a link to the page with diagrams for the wiring. Give me a sec to find it....


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> You gonna have a drain in your loop? And how are you planning to fill the res without it overflowing?


fill as it goes, funnel and a cup.
as for draining the res should be easy enough to turn over and make the low point of the loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how do i find the 12v and ground?
> and ill probably just twist the wires into a psu connector's wires.
> i can solder, just hate it.
> and dnt wanna buy a crimper, or the pins
> 
> 
> 
> BMav has a link to the page with diagrams for the wiring. Give me a sec to find it....
Click to expand...

thanks!


----------



## wermad

http://www.overclock.net/t/898129/can-au-mcp350-pumps-ddc-1-35-shipped-pp

http://www.overclock.net/t/1045422/ddc-1t-pcb-mod

hmmmmm....having a hard time finding it and I've seen some linked through xs.org (blocked by work pc). I'll keep digging unless someone has it









Btw, I can't access BMav's new sale thread (if it does exist







).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *for those of you with bmav's pumps!*
> is there anything special i need to know about powering it?


If yours came with PWM no. I have mine(2) on 2 channels of my RheoSmart 3 channel. Does quite well. Just connected the 2nd one and boy it really increased flow.









wermad, PM sent.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *for those of you with bmav's pumps!*
> is there anything special i need to know about powering it?
> 
> 
> 
> If yours came with PWM no. I have mine(2) on 2 channels of my RheoSmart 3 channel. Does quite well. Just connected the 2nd one and boy it really increased flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

could i put it in a 3 pin on my mobo and run it at full speed?









and how do i know its pwm?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> could i put it in a 3 pin on my mobo and run it at full speed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and how do i know its pwm?


4-pins usually means PWM.


----------



## phillyd

how could i test it?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how could i test it?


Plug it into CPU-fan port on MB and see if you can adjust speed in BIOS?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *for those of you with bmav's pumps!*
> is there anything special i need to know about powering it?
> 
> 
> 
> If yours came with PWM no. I have mine(2) on 2 channels of my RheoSmart 3 channel. Does quite well. Just connected the 2nd one and boy it really increased flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> could i put it in a 3 pin on my mobo and run it at full speed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and how do i know its pwm?
Click to expand...

I don't. I'm not running mine on PWM cause I only got 3 pin Channels on my Fan Controller. But the connector is a PWM connector and I do know that the 1st two connections along the string work. Just performed leakdown check on single pump and it works awesomely.









As far as working on your Motherboard I can't say tbh because I don't know what your rated wattage is per fan header. I don't know what the rated wattage is on DDC-1T but here are the listed specs courtesy of PPCs':

Dimensions: (WxLxH) 62x62x38mm (without connections)
Motor design: Electronically commutated spherical motor
Rated voltage: 12 V DC direct voltage
Zul. Voltage range of 6 to 13.2 volts
Conveyor height at 12V: 3.7m
max. Flow rate: 420L / h
Fluids: Water, water-/glycol
Maximum system temperature: 60 ° C
Wetted parts: Stainless steel 1.4571, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings,
Alumina, hard coal
Connectors: 2x 10/8mm hose connection (no grommet required)

Martin's Liquid Labs has it at about 9w so if your header can't handle 9w then I say no. If it can handle 16 then yes.









Martin's Liquid Labs Review

~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

this might be my excuse for a fan controller...anyone know where to find the sentry mix the cheapest?
and since its 50w shud i keep it on low?


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> this might be my excuse for a fan controller...anyone know where to find the sentry mix the cheapest?
> and since its 50w shud i keep it on low?


http://www.xoxide.com/nzxt-sentrymix-fancontroller.html

looks like the cheapest.

EDIT: unless you have amazon prime: http://www.amazon.com/Technologies-Sentry-Mix-Illuminated-Controller/dp/B006J6OMG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336006253&sr=8-1 (saves on the shipping.)


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how do i find the 12v and ground?
> and ill probably just twist the wires into a psu connector's wires.
> i can solder, just hate it.
> and dnt wanna buy a crimper, or the pins


if u dont want to buy the pins or crimper grab an old fan and cut the fan conector and lead of it you should have a fan u dont use sitting around anymore ..

just make shor its a 3 wire fan not a 2 wire as u will end having no control over the pump and it will just run flat out









short cut ...









if this is not what u where getting at pm or skype me








we can sit down and sort it









ddc pump right

Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd

could i put it in a 3 pin on my mobo and run it at full speed?
and how do i know its pwm? yes u you can and u can still control it if u use voltage to control it!!!

4-pins usually means PWM.









as for the fan controller phillyd i have a 50w Sentry mix 6 chanel NZXT il donate to yor build if u pay postage


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how do i find the 12v and ground?
> and ill probably just twist the wires into a psu connector's wires.
> i can solder, just hate it.
> and dnt wanna buy a crimper, or the pins
> 
> 
> 
> if u dont want to buy the pins or crimper grab an old fan and cut the fan conector and lead of it you should have a fan u dont use sitting around anymore ..
> 
> just make shor its a 3 wire fan not a 2 wire as u will end having no control over the pump and it will just run flat out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> short cut ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if this is not what u where getting at pm or skype me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we can sit down and sort it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ddc pump right.
Click to expand...

Not to pick a fight or anything but this is taken from the D5 Vario Review at Martin's Liquid Labs...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koolance D5 Vario Review.*
> Efficiency
> 
> Not a huge deal as I think the differences are relatively small, but the PMP-400 when coupled with an aftermarket top will produce slightly more pumping power per watt than the PMP-450, but that is only after the PMP-400 has had the factory top (with an inlet elbow) removed.
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance D5 Vario Review.


Granted that is with a new Top on it and it's a 400 being compared, but the performance drop off from the 400 down is marginal based on Martin's reviews.

~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how do i find the 12v and ground?
> and ill probably just twist the wires into a psu connector's wires.
> i can solder, just hate it.
> and dnt wanna buy a crimper, or the pins
> 
> 
> 
> if u dont want to buy the pins or crimper grab an old fan and cut the fan conector and lead of it you should have a fan u dont use sitting around anymore ..
> 
> just make shor its a 3 wire fan not a 2 wire as u will end having no control over the pump and it will just run flat out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> short cut ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if this is not what u where getting at pm or skype me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we can sit down and sort it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ddc pump right
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by phillyd
> 
> could i put it in a 3 pin on my mobo and run it at full speed?
> and how do i know its pwm? yes u you can and u can still control it if u use voltage to control it!!!
> 
> 4-pins usually means PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as for the fan controller phillyd i have a 50w Sentry mix 6 chanel NZXT il donate to yor build if u pay postage
Click to expand...

ill pm you with your address and gimme a quote, ill send you the payment ASAP!
also youll have to show me on skype.


----------



## RushMore1205

WIOW look at what swiftech did, look like anything we know?>???










http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16009/fan-989/Swiftech_Helix_120mm_x_25mm_Z-Bearing_Fan_-_1800_RPM_HELIX-120-BW.html?id=x8JZWNeU


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Helluva price for those. Look for GT prices to come down to a more reasonable cost.









Still gonna stick with Yate Loon but the price gap is gonna shrink to a more reasonable level.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how do i find the 12v and ground?
> and ill probably just twist the wires into a psu connector's wires.
> i can solder, just hate it.
> and dnt wanna buy a crimper, or the pins
> 
> 
> 
> if u dont want to buy the pins or crimper grab an old fan and cut the fan conector and lead of it you should have a fan u dont use sitting around anymore ..
> 
> just make shor its a 3 wire fan not a 2 wire as u will end having no control over the pump and it will just run flat out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> short cut ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if this is not what u where getting at pm or skype me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we can sit down and sort it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ddc pump right
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by phillyd
> 
> could i put it in a 3 pin on my mobo and run it at full speed?
> and how do i know its pwm? yes u you can and u can still control it if u use voltage to control it!!!
> 
> 4-pins usually means PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as for the fan controller phillyd i have a 50w Sentry mix 6 chanel NZXT il donate to yor build if u pay postage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ill pm you with your address and gimme a quote, ill send you the payment ASAP!
> also youll have to show me on skype.
Click to expand...

Dude is in Aussieland Philly.









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> 4-pins usually means PWM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ill pm you with your address and gimme a quote, ill send you the payment ASAP!
> also youll have to show me on skype.


sweet as u bizzy now ??


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ Helluva price for those. Look for GT prices to come down to a more reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still gonna stick with Yate Loon but the price gap is gonna shrink to a more reasonable level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how do i find the 12v and ground?
> and ill probably just twist the wires into a psu connector's wires.
> i can solder, just hate it.
> and dnt wanna buy a crimper, or the pins
> 
> 
> 
> if u dont want to buy the pins or crimper grab an old fan and cut the fan conector and lead of it you should have a fan u dont use sitting around anymore ..
> 
> just make shor its a 3 wire fan not a 2 wire as u will end having no control over the pump and it will just run flat out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> short cut ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if this is not what u where getting at pm or skype me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we can sit down and sort it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ddc pump right
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by phillyd
> 
> could i put it in a 3 pin on my mobo and run it at full speed?
> and how do i know its pwm? yes u you can and u can still control it if u use voltage to control it!!!
> 
> 4-pins usually means PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as for the fan controller phillyd i have a 50w Sentry mix 6 chanel NZXT il donate to yor build if u pay postage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ill pm you with your address and gimme a quote, ill send you the payment ASAP!
> also youll have to show me on skype.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Dude is in Aussieland Philly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

ik skitzab1! and the shipping cant be more than $35 lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ Helluva price for those. Look for GT prices to come down to a more reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still gonna stick with Yate Loon but the price gap is gonna shrink to a more reasonable level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how do i find the 12v and ground?
> and ill probably just twist the wires into a psu connector's wires.
> i can solder, just hate it.
> and dnt wanna buy a crimper, or the pins
> 
> 
> 
> if u dont want to buy the pins or crimper grab an old fan and cut the fan conector and lead of it you should have a fan u dont use sitting around anymore ..
> 
> just make shor its a 3 wire fan not a 2 wire as u will end having no control over the pump and it will just run flat out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> short cut ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if this is not what u where getting at pm or skype me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we can sit down and sort it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ddc pump right
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by phillyd
> 
> could i put it in a 3 pin on my mobo and run it at full speed?
> and how do i know its pwm? yes u you can and u can still control it if u use voltage to control it!!!
> 
> 4-pins usually means PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as for the fan controller phillyd i have a 50w Sentry mix 6 chanel NZXT il donate to yor build if u pay postage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ill pm you with your address and gimme a quote, ill send you the payment ASAP!
> also youll have to show me on skype.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Dude is in Aussieland Philly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ik skitzab1! and the shipping cant be more than $35 lol
Click to expand...

Kay man. I just refunded a guy who bid on some stuff in my eBay sales because shipping overseas can be pretty bad. You should at least check with USPS to see what it's gonna cost.










~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> ill pm you with your address and gimme a quote


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ik skitzab1! and the shipping cant be more than $35 lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kay man. I just refunded a guy who bid on some stuff in my eBay sales because shipping overseas can be pretty bad. You should at least check with USPS to see what it's gonna cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


its only small and not heavy so yer it shoud still be 1/2 the price of buying it over ther

but yes i do live in Australia.

but i order from overseas all the time its things that are big or heavy are the costly ones but also if u need it fast it could be difficult as it could take a week or 2 to get there

with the size and the weight it prob around say $25 max US
but dont hold me to it

but yer id check first as well


----------



## Fultonloyn

Some quick pics of my rig. My r6950 is in the RMA process...custom res cover and name badge done by OCN member dwood.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ik skitzab1! and the shipping cant be more than $35 lol
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kay man. I just refunded a guy who bid on some stuff in my eBay sales because shipping overseas can be pretty bad. You should at least check with USPS to see what it's gonna cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its only small and not heavy so yer it shoud still be 1/2 the price of buying it over ther
> 
> but yes i do live in Australia.
> 
> but i order from overseas all the time its things that are big or heavy are the costly ones but also if u need it fast it could be difficult as it could take a week or 2 to get there
> 
> with the size and the weight it prob around say $25 max US
> but dont hold me to it
> 
> but yer id check first as well
Click to expand...

I just shipped a rad to Hawaii from NY and it was 44.00 USPS. Weighed just under a pound. I couldn't believe it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> I just shipped a rad to Hawaii from NY and it was 44.00 USPS. Weighed just under a pound. I couldn't believe it.


USPS Large Flat rate "Gameboard" box, ~$16 in the US50









Most 480mm rads will probably fit. These are usually not in the lobby of post offices, but you can always ask the post reps or order free ones online









*edit: no weight limit for domestic shipping, 20lbs for international.*
Quote:


> Size
> Inside Dimensions Outside Dimensions
> 12" x 12" x 5-1/2" 12-1/4" x 12-1/4" x 6"
> 23-11/16" x 11-3/4" x 3" 24-1/16" x 11-7/8" x 3-1/8"
> Features
> 
> Priority Mail service offers 2-3 day service to most domestic destinations. Priority Mail Large Flat Rate Boxes are available at many Post Offices and can be ordered online at usps.com. You can print Priority Mail labels and postage with Click-N-Ship at usps.com and receive a price discount.
> Domestic Prices
> 
> One low price regardless of weight for items mailed to U.S. destinations in the Priority Mail Large Flat Rate Boxes provided by the Postal Service.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> fill as it goes, funnel and a cup.
> as for draining the res should be easy enough to turn over and make the low point of the loop.
> thanks!


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/09/laing-ddc-1-ddc-1t/










*Sorry for the double posty









edit: sorry for the late reply. Just fought traffic for 2 hours. I came in early so I'm super tired and sleepy. And Jr. Seau just committed suicide, so us Bolt fans are sad today


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> fill as it goes, funnel and a cup.
> as for draining the res should be easy enough to turn over and make the low point of the loop.
> thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/09/laing-ddc-1-ddc-1t/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sorry for the double posty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: sorry for the late reply. Just fought traffic for 2 hours. I came in early so I'm super tired and sleepy. And Jr. Seau just committed suicide, so us Bolt fans are sad today
Click to expand...

Sad day for all NFL fans werm. Junior will be missed no matter what team a fan roots for. Long time 9er fan and have been a fan of Junior since the Bolts drafted him. Probably even earlier tbh.

On the DDC-1T front I PM'ed you where to go to get your pump too.









Got my 2nd in an it's workin awesome. Just gotta plug it into FCC#2 but it's gonna be tight with that 4pin jutting into the 3pin slot next to it. I think it'll be fit though.









Soon as I get the system back up an running I'll post some pics.









Anyone got an idea why Huddler feels the need to slip threads I'm not subscribed to in my list?









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> USPS Large Flat rate "Gameboard" box, ~$16 in the US50
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most 480mm rads will probably fit. These are usually not in the lobby of post offices, but you can always ask the post reps or order free ones online
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit: no weight limit for domestic shipping, 20lbs for international.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Size
> Inside Dimensions Outside Dimensions
> 12" x 12" x 5-1/2" 12-1/4" x 12-1/4" x 6"
> 23-11/16" x 11-3/4" x 3" 24-1/16" x 11-7/8" x 3-1/8"
> Features
> Priority Mail service offers 2-3 day service to most domestic destinations. Priority Mail Large Flat Rate Boxes are available at many Post Offices and can be ordered online at usps.com. You can print Priority Mail labels and postage with Click-N-Ship at usps.com and receive a price discount.
> Domestic Prices
> One low price regardless of weight for items mailed to U.S. destinations in the Priority Mail Large Flat Rate Boxes provided by the Postal Service.
Click to expand...

yer im looking at it now due to wait and size of the fan controller it should be around the $15-$20 USD..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> yer im looking at it now due to wait and size of the fan controller it should be around the $15-$20 USD..


They have some decent pricing using International First Class but there's an overall weight limit of 2kg (~4.4lbs) to qualify. I just sent a EVGA p67 mb to Canada for $17 usd. These "Flat-Rate" boxes are nice if you are sending stuff across the country which maybe cheaper than a regular package. They are pricey when shipping international but I know first hand its faster than First class.

Anyways, I still haven't gotten a reply from Nzxt so I bought a new controller. If this does well, then I'm selling what ever replacement I get from Nzxt.


----------



## phillyd




----------



## skitzab1

we will get it sorted the fan controller will look nice in that build







its only fitting that we get it to him









and phillyd ill get onto a desine tonight







should have a prototype sorted by moring for u if nothing inter ups me









prototype stays mine but....he he









u will have to construct your own he he he

but ill explain how and what u will need









skitz out i need some sleep none for 26 hours


----------



## CircuitFreak

New pic from the Ivy build and sexy EVGA backplate for the 470


----------



## FlashGordon

PCcase 　 : NZXT PHANTOM WHITE
CPU　　 : i7 3930K C2
VGA : ASUS HD7970-3GD5
Motherboard : Asus Rampage Ⅳ　Extreme
ATX Power Supply　: SilverStone STRIDER PLUS GOLD 1200W SST-ST1200-G
SSD : ADATA S511 120GB HDD: WDC 1T
Memory : G-SKILL F3-1600C9Q-16GAO 4Gx4 16G

Wtaer Cooling System as follows
Pump　 : Aquacomputer D5-Pumpenmechanik mit Tachosignal
Reservoir : xspc Black Dual 5.25 bay Reservoir (Ball)
Courante : PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - UV Red
CPU Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-Supreme LTX - EN (Nickel)
VGA Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-FC7970 - EN (Nickel)
Water Tube : PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing -1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD
Radiator1 : Black Ice SR1 240 CoolingLab Edition
Radiator2 : Black Ice GT Stealth 360
Radiator3 : Black Ice GT Stealth 120
Radiator4 : Swiftech MCR220-XP


----------



## FlashGordon




----------



## Systemlord

Very nice FlashGordon, I have thought about using that white tubing, also considering the purple LRT. I switched from Bitspower nickel compression fittings to all matte black compression fittings which set me back about $250-$300, and I think white and black look good together!


----------



## FlashGordon

Thank you ! I have been modding pc using this case many times.
I show here my present pc.
I am waiting Bioshock infinite this autum.


----------



## bah73

Been messing around with some picture effects.


----------



## Krahe

nice results there bah73, and an interesting idea.


----------



## 4514kaiser

like the bottom pic how did you do that!


----------



## bundymania

Nice Rigs @FlashGordon & bah73 !

BTW: My 7970 Waterblock Roundup is online ! (English translation in 2-3 weeks)

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/bundymania-user-test-fullcover-wasserkuehler-fuer-die-amd-hd-7970-grafikkarte-889380.html


----------



## bah73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> like the bottom pic how did you do that!


Was on this site =[URL=http://fotoflexer.com]http://fotoflexer.com


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashGordon*
> 
> PCcase 　 : NZXT PHANTOM WHITE
> CPU　　 : i7 3930K C2
> VGA : ASUS HD7970-3GD5
> Motherboard : Asus Rampage Ⅳ　Extreme
> ATX Power Supply　: SilverStone STRIDER PLUS GOLD 1200W SST-ST1200-G
> SSD : ADATA S511 120GB HDD: WDC 1T
> Memory : G-SKILL F3-1600C9Q-16GAO 4Gx4 16G
> Wtaer Cooling System as follows
> Pump　 : Aquacomputer D5-Pumpenmechanik mit Tachosignal
> Reservoir : xspc Black Dual 5.25 bay Reservoir (Ball)
> Courante : PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - UV Red
> CPU Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-Supreme LTX - EN (Nickel)
> VGA Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-FC7970 - EN (Nickel)
> Water Tube : PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing -1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD
> Radiator1 : Black Ice SR1 240 CoolingLab Edition
> Radiator2 : Black Ice GT Stealth 360
> Radiator3 : Black Ice GT Stealth 120
> Radiator4 : Swiftech MCR220-XP


Dude your a BEAST!!! I absolutely love your rig!!!


----------



## Axis24

Gpu loop finally configured to my liking.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FlashGordon*
> 
> PCcase 　 : NZXT
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> PHANTOM WHITE
> CPU　　 : i7 3930K C2
> VGA : ASUS HD7970-3GD5
> Motherboard : Asus Rampage Ⅳ　Extreme
> ATX Power Supply　: SilverStone STRIDER PLUS GOLD 1200W SST-ST1200-G
> SSD : ADATA S511 120GB HDD: WDC 1T
> Memory : G-SKILL F3-1600C9Q-16GAO 4Gx4 16G
> Wtaer Cooling System as follows
> Pump　 : Aquacomputer D5-Pumpenmechanik mit Tachosignal
> Reservoir : xspc Black Dual 5.25 bay Reservoir (Ball)
> Courante : PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - UV Red
> CPU Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-Supreme LTX - EN (Nickel)
> VGA Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-FC7970 - EN (Nickel)
> Water Tube : PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing -1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD
> Radiator1 : Black Ice SR1 240 CoolingLab Edition
> Radiator2 : Black Ice GT Stealth 360
> Radiator3 : Black Ice GT Stealth 120
> Radiator4 : Swiftech MCR220-XP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude your a BEAST!!! I absolutely love your rig!!!
Click to expand...

please learn to use spoilers


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> please learn to use spoilers





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Spoiler Police!


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Gpu loop finally configured to my liking.


Looks like you only have one tube going into the top GPU...
How about a picture that's close enough, and from an angle, so we can actually tell what you've done there?


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Looks like you only have one tube going into the top GPU...
> How about a picture that's close enough, and from an angle, so we can actually tell what you've done there?


Will do but it will have to be after work.


----------



## Axis24

Hope this helps.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Hope this helps.


Now that's unique. Great job!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> like the bottom pic how did you do that!


You can load a paint.net software for free

Here is my screenshot -


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Converting a color picture to Photo Pencil Sketch.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> please learn to use spoilers


How do you do the spoilers? I'm new on this site just getting used to it.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> How do you do the spoilers? I'm new on this site just getting used to it.


It's next to the 'Indent' and 'Code' icons.

Select the text you want to add, then click on the 'Spoiler' icon. It will then show up as this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Let's do this...



You can also edit the spoiler message, "Warning: Spoiler!"

Example:


----------



## smex

nice builds guys (;







without lightning..


----------



## solidshark91493

Awesome! ^

Cant wait to start building mine. And post it here when its done.

I might call it the grinch, because it will be green and is gonna steal all my money.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







And especially because I always see white, blue and red builds for the most part. I dont see green too often.


----------



## chino1974

SMEX are those zip ties on the ends of your hoses? I don't have compression fittings just barbs but was wondering would zip ties do the job instead of using clamps? Nice rig by the way.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> SMEX are those zip ties on the ends of your hoses? I don't have compression fittings just barbs but was wondering would zip ties do the job instead of using clamps? Nice rig by the way.


Yes those are Zips. But if you can I would just suggest using tubing one size down from the size of your barbs. Like if you're using 1/2" barbs going with 7/16" Tubing. You can still use Zips if your leery of going without clamps but if you have a good set of barbs with multiple barbs on them then going without shouldn't be a problem.

~Ceadder


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes those are Zips. But if you can I would just suggest using tubing one size down from the size of your barbs. Like if you're using 1/2" barbs going with 7/16" Tubing. You can still use Zips if your leery of going without clamps but if you have a good set of barbs with multiple barbs on them then going without shouldn't be a problem.
> ~Ceadder


Ceadderman I have 3/8" id primochill hosing right now with Danger Den 3/8" high flow barbs. Would you know if those barbs are good enough to go without clamps like you were saying? I know right now even though the hoses are the same size as barbs they went on very tight and when I was first putting it together I had to actually cut a small piece of the hose to get it off the barbs to rearrange a hose because it was so tight it wouldn't come off without cutting. Eventually I want to get some nice compression fittings. Just at the time I was rebuilding my cooling set-up I couldn't afford them.







Any more advice on this will be very helpful.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes those are Zips. But if you can I would just suggest using tubing one size down from the size of your barbs. Like if you're using 1/2" barbs going with 7/16" Tubing. You can still use Zips if your leery of going without clamps but if you have a good set of barbs with multiple barbs on them then going without shouldn't be a problem.
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ceadderman I have 3/8" id primochill hosing right now with Danger Den 3/8" high flow barbs. Would you know if those barbs are good enough to go without clamps like you were saying? I know right now even though the hoses are the same size as barbs they went on very tight and when I was first putting it together I had to actually cut a small piece of the hose to get it off the barbs to rearrange a hose because it was so tight it wouldn't come off without cutting. Eventually I want to get some nice compression fittings. Just at the time I was rebuilding my cooling set-up I couldn't afford them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any more advice on this will be very helpful.
Click to expand...

No, always go with some sort of clamp if you're running the same size tubing as the barbs. I'm using 7/16" tube on 1/2" fat boy barbs...damn near impossible to pull off... but I use a zip tie just in case.

My next purchase? Compressions with angled fittings. Right now, with straight barbs, it's not exactly the way I would like it... but I'm not sure I feel like spending close to $200 on fittings. Current fittings cost me about $70 bucks originally, and I have 4-6 spare barbs from the original batch I purchased.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes those are Zips. But if you can I would just suggest using tubing one size down from the size of your barbs. Like if you're using 1/2" barbs going with 7/16" Tubing. You can still use Zips if your leery of going without clamps but if you have a good set of barbs with multiple barbs on them then going without shouldn't be a problem.
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ceadderman I have 3/8" id primochill hosing right now with Danger Den 3/8" high flow barbs. Would you know if those barbs are good enough to go without clamps like you were saying? I know right now even though the hoses are the same size as barbs they went on very tight and when I was first putting it together I had to actually cut a small piece of the hose to get it off the barbs to rearrange a hose because it was so tight it wouldn't come off without cutting. Eventually I want to get some nice compression fittings. Just at the time I was rebuilding my cooling set-up I couldn't afford them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any more advice on this will be very helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No, always go with some sort of clamp if you're running the same size tubing as the barbs. I'm using 7/16" tube on 1/2" fat boy barbs...damn near impossible to pull off... but I use a zip tie just in case.
> 
> My next purchase? Compressions with angled fittings. Right now, with straight barbs, it's not exactly the way I would like it... but I'm not sure I feel like spending close to $200 on fittings. Current fittings cost me about $70 bucks originally, and I have 4-6 spare barbs from the original batch I purchased.
Click to expand...

I don't believe that I'm running $200 in fittings. 8 EK Black Nickel Comps($56), 5 Enzotech 45 Rotaries ($38), 2 BP 90 Rotaries'( $18) and Koolance VGA... Hmmm counting my Enzotech barrel that's about $150(+/-)









Definitely costs more than if I had gone with 10 barb fittings and clamps. Well worth it however.









~Ceadder


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> SMEX are those zip ties on the ends of your hoses? I don't have compression fittings just barbs but was wondering would zip ties do the job instead of using clamps? Nice rig by the way.


hey.. ty

yes and they will do the job.. i was afraid of leaking so i used 2 on each fitting.


----------



## chino1974

I have a few 1/2" barbs lying around. Do you guys think I can squeez my 3/8" hose over those or would that be to much of a stress? I don't want to over force something and cause a leake. I not I'll probably just wait another week and go grab all the compression fittings and a little larger sized hose while I'm at it.







Eventually I want to add another 120 rad and vga block to my 6870. So far I have a 240 rad,Swiftech Micro Res Rev.2,Jingway Technology DP600P pump,primochill 3/8"id-1/2od black tubing and a chromed larkooler cpu block.


----------



## chino1974

This is how it looks so far. Any advice?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> I have a few 1/2" barbs lying around. Do you guys think I can squeez my 3/8" hose over those or would that be to much of a stress? I don't want to over force something and cause a leake. I not I'll probably just wait another week and go grab all the compression fittings and a little larger sized hose while I'm at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually I want to add another 120 rad and vga block to my 6870. So far I have a 240 rad,Swiftech Micro Res Rev.2,Jingway Technology DP600P pump,primochill 3/8"id-1/2od black tubing and a chromed larkooler cpu block.


Getting 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs is a pain in the ars as is...I don't think you'll be able to get 3/8" on there at all.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Getting 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs is a pain in the ars as is...I don't think you'll be able to get 3/8" on there at all.


Yeah I kinda had the same feeling. Even on the same sized barbs it went on very tight nevermind going down 2 sizes. Thanks for the input guys.


----------



## rkwallace

It looks okay but I'm a firm believer in the reservoir being located higher up than the pump (it's a gravity thing).


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> This is how it looks so far. Any advice?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I believe that WC Rig is your first time, don't you?


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case


I used the bottom of my reservoir as my drain with a long enough tube to hang it out the side of the case. It just relaxes in the bottom of the case behind the pump and isn't seen from the window











The fill port is threaded which lets me screw in a longer piece of tubing that has a barb on it so I can freely lift up the case and rotate it to get all the remaining coolant out with the end of the long tube in a container on the floor. Next time I'll use a quick disconnect.


----------



## superericla

That looks like a pretty good way of draining the loop...








My post 666


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> I believe that WC Rig is your first time, don't you?


What do you mean? Sorry I get what your saying?


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> I used the bottom of my reservoir as my drain with a long enough tube to hang it out the side of the case. It just relaxes in the bottom of the case behind the pump and isn't seen from the window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fill port is threaded which lets me screw in a longer piece of tubing that has a barb on it so I can freely lift up the case and rotate it to get all the remaining coolant out with the end of the long tube in a container on the floor. Next time I'll use a quick disconnect.


I used to do this exact same thing. I replaced the tube/fillport with a bitspower ball valve. When it's time to drain, hook a tube up to it and open the valve. I think it's a better option than a QDC, since as soon as you plug in the QDC, the valve is open. You get more control with the ball valve.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAFenvy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So I've been looking through a ton of these rigs... I don't see any solutions on these for draining... Does that mean people just cut and pull the hoses outward quickly rather than install inline-T's real low in the case? I'm just trying to determine a smooth solution for mine... but they all seem like it'll turn out ugly. Thinking about just skipping the drain again and just making the pretty loop unless someone has the clean solution for me hidden in their case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the bottom of my reservoir as my drain with a long enough tube to hang it out the side of the case. It just relaxes in the bottom of the case behind the pump and isn't seen from the window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fill port is threaded which lets me screw in a longer piece of tubing that has a barb on it so I can freely lift up the case and rotate it to get all the remaining coolant out with the end of the long tube in a container on the floor. Next time I'll use a quick disconnect.
Click to expand...

My drain setup.


















Fingers get a little wet but not too bad.
















~Ceadder


----------



## ShortAlieN

I put mine out back



















It was so much more difficult before I did that.


----------



## soul801

Hey guys what do you think about this for my cooling loop?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Hey guys what do you think about this for my cooling loop?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Try this way:



edit: sorry for the crappy paint editing. I'm on an old work pc with old paint version


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Hey guys what do you think about this for my cooling loop?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try this way:
> 
> 
> 
> edit: sorry for the crappy paint editing. I'm on an old work pc with old paint version
Click to expand...

This. invert that Res and use both at the top for fill.









~Ceadder


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Try this way:
> 
> edit: sorry for the crappy paint editing. I'm on an old work pc with old paint version


with that setup the bottom gpu isn't getting any flow...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> with that setup the bottom gpu isn't getting any flow...


Switch the link between GPUs to the other port and switch the top GPU -> radiator link to the other port and the problem's solved.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortAlieN*
> 
> I put mine out back
> 
> It was so much more difficult before I did that.


Same here, out the rear, the drain port is almost 3" inches lower than the radiators lowest 1/4 inlet/outlet port.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This. invert that Res and use both at the top for fill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Mad paint skills on my old work pc


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Switch the link between GPUs to the other port and switch the top GPU -> radiator link to the other port and the problem's solved.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> URL=http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2291059/width/600/height/450]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Same here, out the rear, the drain port is almost 3" inches lower than the radiators lowest 1/4 inlet/outlet port.
[



Are you using a Kleenex box to prop up your rig?


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

heres my sig rig as of now i will be adding more to it later. im waiting on 7870 blocks.







fill port is in the top of the 700d inside of the 5.25" bays and the drain port is next to the pump my fav part of this build is the entire pump assembly its all mounted on a piece of polycarbonate and mounted to the case via 4 6-32 bolts with rubber spacers. i did it this way so that it makes maintenance on the pump easy (if i need to) and if at a later date i decide to add a 240 rad in the bottom i can without having to many holes. i used the existing pop rivet holes from the 3.5" bay that was in the bottom.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> What do you mean? Sorry I get what your saying?


Uh mmmm.. wc rig in picture is your first watercooling built ?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Same here, out the rear, the drain port is almost 3" inches lower than the radiators lowest 1/4 inlet/outlet port.
> [
> 
> 
> Are you using a Kleenex box to prop up your rig?


I couldn't find a damn thing in my home that I would feel comfortable propping up my STH10 case, not even a shoe box!


----------



## mm67

delete


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Uh mmmm.. wc rig in picture is your first watercooling built ?


Yes first wc build I put together. Before this I had a closed loop h50. Why do you see anything wrong with it?


----------



## ROG1

mmm


----------



## Eyedea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> my new setup...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> coming soon with gtx680 under water


Looks like your temp monitor says 288c


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> my new setup...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> coming soon with gtx680 under water


Hey your rig looks great:thumb: Quick question do you have the temp probe in the water to read the cooling systems temp? I have the same meter and was wondering if it could go in water?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Can you add me to the list?
> This is my first water cooled build.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude, I don't aware that you got a beautiful 370SI. thats 4WE$OM3!

Out of Curiosity, what an outstanding temps are you getting with this CPU 370SI?









I Love my *370SA* WB!, and put together the mounting hardware without the tension springs on each posts, uncomfortable, because it doesn't get easier. See what PIX looked like of below:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> Might have already asked you about this block... But, what kinda temps are you getting with this Koolance block? I really like my Raystorm AMD block, outstanding temps with it.. just curious about the competition out there with this newer block.


this temp's result with my beautiful 370SA -

20C Idle, a FULL LOAD never gets above 31C for seven hours...


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> my new setup...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> coming soon with gtx680 under water






Nice loop! You res looks like it has some condensation? Must be bubbles?

The dye reminds me of fruit punch.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Little late to the party here but there was some discussion about power consumption on D5's here a day or two ago- to clarify, the D5 and D5 vario have DIFFERENT power consumptions and are rated differently. The stock D5 (non-vario) is locked at speed 4, of 5 where the D5 vario can be run another notch higher. So it seems reasonable that there would be a few Watts difference between models of D5







That's also one reason to consider getting the vario vs the regular model if you're looking to maximize performance...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Little late to the party here but there was some discussion about power consumption on D5's here a day or two ago- to clarify, the D5 and D5 vario have DIFFERENT power consumptions and are rated differently. The stock D5 (non-vario) is locked at speed 4, of 5 where the D5 vario can be run another notch higher. So it seems reasonable that there would be a few Watts difference between models of D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's also one reason to consider getting the vario vs the regular model if you're looking to maximize performance...


Not according to manu specs and every site that lists specs. Source?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice loop! You res looks like it has some condensation? Must be bubbles?
> *The dye reminds me of fruit punch.*


Haha, I was thinking the same thing









Quote:


> MCP655-B
> Nominal Voltage 12 V DC
> Operating Voltage 8 to 24 V DC
> Nominal Power (@ 12 V) 24 W
> Nominal Current (@ 12 V) 2 Amps
> Motor Type Electronically Commutated DC Spherical Brushless Motor , with automatic overload protection and low in-rush current
> Maximum Head 10 ft (3.1 m)
> Maximum Discharge ~ 317 GPH (1200 LPH)
> Connection Size 1/2" barbs (10mm)
> Maximum (working) Pressure 50 PSI (3.5 BAR)
> Temperature Range 32 °F to 140 °F (0 °C to 60 °C)
> Electrical Connector Molex 4-pin
> Weight 1.4 LB (650 g)
> Impeller material Noryl


http://www.swiftech.com/MCP655-B.aspx#tab3
Quote:


> MCP655
> Nominal Voltage 12 V DC
> Operating Voltage 8 to 24 V DC
> Nominal Power (@ 12 V) 24 W
> Nominal Current (@ 12 V) 2 Amps
> Motor Type Electronically Commutated DC Spherical Brushless Motor , with automatic overload protection and low in-rush current
> Nominal Head (@12v) ~ 13 ft (4 m)
> Nominal Discharge (@12v) ~ 317 GPH (1200 LPH)
> Connection Size 1/2" barbs (10mm)
> Maximum (working) Pressure 50 PSI (3.5 BAR)
> Temperature Range 32 °F to 140 °F (0 °C to 60 °C)
> Electrical Connector Molex 4-pin
> Weight 1.4 LB (650 g)
> Impeller material Noryl


http://www.swiftech.com/mcp655.aspx#tab3


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Both at 24w.....answers that one,thanks wermad


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Same here, out the rear, the drain port is almost 3" inches lower than the radiators lowest 1/4 inlet/outlet port.
> [
> 
> 
> Are you using a Kleenex box to prop up your rig?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't find a damn thing in my home that I would feel comfortable propping up my STH10 case, not even a shoe box!
Click to expand...

Haha, at least you coulda done two of them or get a stack of books? Still I've used CD cases, Books, Wood Blocks, never used Kleenex box that is a first.







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Little late to the party here but there was some discussion about power consumption on D5's here a day or two ago- to clarify, the D5 and D5 vario have DIFFERENT power consumptions and are rated differently. The stock D5 (non-vario) is locked at speed 4, of 5 where the D5 vario can be run another notch higher. So it seems reasonable that there would be a few Watts difference between models of D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's also one reason to consider getting the vario vs the regular model if you're looking to maximize performance...
> 
> 
> 
> Not according to manu specs and every site that lists specs. Source?
Click to expand...

Not to nitpick, but where are you getting your specs from? Koolance, XSPC, Swiftech or Liang? I can't say either way but common electrical knowledge tells me that more rpm requires more power which was why I thought that the Vario should be a larger wattage design over a locked pump. I could be wrong and have no problems with being so since I'm a straight up n00bie in this game. If you're getting your information from Koolance, they don't build the pumps. Same with Swiftech or XSPC. Laing builds them and the companies marketing them are rebranding them. Now that doesn't mean that their rated specs don't fluctuate from manufacturer to manufacturer just that they don't build them. Much like Corsair doesn't build a single one of their All in One units. I believe that there is another pump builder but the name escapes me. I'm just using Liang as the go to since that's pretty much the company that dominates the pump business from what I can tell.









*Update* Thanks werm for sharing the swiftech info.









~Ceadder


----------



## SimpleTech

My el cheapo 12V DC pump is rated at 12W.


----------



## wermad

i can't do any other than a DDC 3.2. I would consider a 3.1 with an aftermarket top (more likely two with a dual ddc top) but the 3.25 runs too hot for my liking. I did like my jingway 1200s but there's little to no aftermarket stuff for them







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> i can't do any other than a DDC 3.2. I would consider a 3.1 with an aftermarket top (more likely two with a dual ddc top) but the 3.25 runs too hot for my liking. I did like my jingway 1200s but there's little to no aftermarket stuff for them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Get dual DDC-1T from bmav. $35 each and way less heat output than 3. series. I have two of them in my loop. Quite awesome and for less than the cost of a 3.** series Pump.









You can PM bmaverick or just pay him straightfwd through his


Spoiler: Warning:PayPal!



b[email protected]


in either case he'll need your shipping address. Last I heard he still has quite a few DDC-1T pumps.









____________

I am now sitting here contemplating life. Where do we go from here what happens to us when we're pulled off the Motherboard of life with the watercooling block still attached to us. Do we have bent pins? What happens if someone saves us and remounts us in the socket. Are we worse for wear or do we just plod along aimlessly or go on as though it never happened.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get dual DDC-1T from bmav. $35 each and way less heat output than 3. series. I have two of them in my loop. Quite awesome and for less than the cost of a 3.** series Pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can PM bmaverick or just pay him straightfwd through his
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning:PayPal!
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> in either case he'll need your shipping address. Last I heard he still has quite a few DDC-1T pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My 3.2 was $55









I think 3.2 is the sweet spot and mine have been through very complex and restrictive loops and they keep chugging away.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get dual DDC-1T from bmav. $35 each and way less heat output than 3. series. I have two of them in my loop. Quite awesome and for less than the cost of a 3.** series Pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can PM bmaverick or just pay him straightfwd through his
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning:PayPal!
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> in either case he'll need your shipping address. Last I heard he still has quite a few DDC-1T pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 3.2 was $55
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think 3.2 is the sweet spot and mine have been through very complex and restrictive loops and they keep chugging away.
Click to expand...

I think you got lucky werm. I generally see 3.** for $60 an up. Maybe bmav's prices have caused sellers to rethink their price point.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think you got lucky werm. I generally see 3.** for $60 an up. Maybe bmav's prices have caused sellers to rethink their price point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just gotta keep an eye for them deals, especially in the f/s section.

build update: Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A fan controller that works







.

I scoured around and I found svc.com still has the original Lamptron Fan-Atics. I had a couple of these puppies in my MM build. Crossing my fingers all fans kicked in under 12v and 7v and *no* buzz, woot woot!!! I still have yet to get a reply from Nzxt so I'm still debating on whether to keep any Nzxt Mix rma replacement or this. The lamptron is limited to 12v/7v while the Nzxt can dip down ~4.8v-5v


----------



## ROG1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Looks like your temp monitor says 288c


if my temp is 288c wow 1st in the world hehe 28.8c....


----------



## ROG1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey your rig looks great:thumb: Quick question do you have the temp probe in the water to read the cooling systems temp? I have the same meter and was wondering if it could go in water?


TQ...







sure can. i use Bitspower temp sensor stop fitting...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Haha, at least you coulda done two of them or get a stack of books? Still I've used CD cases, Books, Wood Blocks, never used Kleenex box that is a first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Not to nitpick, but where are you getting your specs from? Koolance, XSPC, Swiftech or Liang? I can't say either way but common electrical knowledge tells me that more rpm requires more power which was why I thought that the Vario should be a larger wattage design over a locked pump. I could be wrong and have no problems with being so since I'm a straight up n00bie in this game. If you're getting your information from Koolance, they don't build the pumps. Same with Swiftech or XSPC. Laing builds them and the companies marketing them are rebranding them. Now that doesn't mean that their rated specs don't fluctuate from manufacturer to manufacturer just that they don't build them. Much like Corsair doesn't build a single one of their All in One units. I believe that there is another pump builder but the name escapes me. I'm just using Liang as the go to since that's pretty much the company that dominates the pump business from what I can tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Update* Thanks werm for sharing the swiftech info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I don't see a difference between the two,other than speed control,I don't see a difference of RPM in the specs.
There is only 3 pump manu out there,Eheim,Jingway (very underated pump) and the ever popular Laing...
I chose Laing for the power and aftermarket goodies,it has legendary status because of this.
As for specs,I can't see the rebranders doing much more than copy/paste job..that is only my opinion rather than fact.


----------



## Squee426

My new water cooler, let me know what you think!!


----------



## zer0signa1

New Dual Loop


----------



## phillyd

I updated my build log with my package from Danger Den, heres some pics, and be sure to check out the video of my unboxing in the build log!


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I updated my build log with my package from Danger Den, heres some pics, and be sure to check out the video of my unboxing in the build log!


How...did you get sponsored?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> How...did you get sponsored?


I talk about it in my build log, check it out!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squee426*
> 
> My new water cooler, let me know what you think!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the ingenuity of your Radiator Stand. Quite awesum.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I updated my build log with my package from Danger Den, heres some pics, and be sure to check out the video of my unboxing in the build log!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah soon as I can get some blox for the GPU, I think I'ma go with with a BI GT Stealth 120. Love my Stealth 360. Just got my system back up after being down for a few days and my unlapped 1100T is currently averaging 37c under Load. Freakin awesome!









~Ceadder


----------



## Squee426

Thanks!







figured keep the rads away from heat sources and cool air in, hot air out and away from the unit.


----------



## Fuganater

Anyone seen the new XSPC EX rads??

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/

240 Multiport


360 Multiport


240 Crossflow


360 Crossflow


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyone seen the new XSPC EX rads??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/
> 
> 240 Multiport
> 
> 
> 360 Multiport
> 
> 
> 240 Crossflow
> 
> 
> 360 Crossflow


Options are great! Good find


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyone seen the new XSPC EX rads??
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/
> 240 Multiport
> 
> 360 Multiport
> 
> 240 Crossflow
> 
> 360 Crossflow


Nice to see you on OCN Shane


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyone seen the new XSPC EX rads??
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/
> 240 Multiport
> 
> 360 Multiport
> 
> 240 Crossflow
> 
> 360 Crossflow


Nice, you just helped me make my rad decision. I'm looking to add a 240 rad to the bottom of my 800D. With the multiport I can use one of the down facing ports for a drain.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone seen the new XSPC EX rads??
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/
> 
> 240 Multiport
> 
> 
> 360 Multiport
> 
> 
> 240 Crossflow
> 
> 
> 360 Crossflow


Black Ice GTS 240's have been crossflow for a long time.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Ceadderman

Those 680s' must go under water.









~Ceadder


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Those 680s' must go under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


^


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Those 680s' must go under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think this is what you were looking for


















Also.. three 680's...


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyone seen the new XSPC EX rads??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/
> 240 Multiport
> 
> 360 Multiport
> 
> 240 Crossflow
> 
> 360 Crossflow


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> i can't do any other than a DDC 3.2. I would consider a 3.1 with an aftermarket top (more likely two with a dual ddc top) but the 3.25 runs too hot for my liking. I did like my jingway 1200s but there's little to no aftermarket stuff for them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


My Laing DDC 3.25 bottom is scorching hot even though it's mounted up off the case floor on a UN Designs pump mount, I believe the heat coming off that pump is why my Gel Stuff has turned green when it used to be clear. So I decided to upgrade to the ever lasting Energiser Bunny PMP-450/MCP-655 D5 pump which runs warm at best because of the metal housing used to dissipate heat away from the main pump body.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Black Ice GTS 240's have been crossflow for a long time.


Aye. Now someone else has them.


----------



## LCTech

Added a couple red fans to my build.


----------



## RushMore1205

this looks kind of sexy


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> this looks kind of sexy


yeah i enjoy the look of that far more than the EK block - but i felt like i had to do the EK block since all my other ones were


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> yeah i enjoy the look of that far more than the EK block - but i felt like i had to do the EK block since all my other ones were


no no, Ek block looks amazing, with LED, i have it, i think its unmatched, but this has a differnt look to it


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Nice, you just helped me make my rad decision. I'm looking to add a 240 rad to the bottom of my 800D. With the multiport I can use one of the down facing ports for a drain.


My thoughts exactly. I have my RX 240 in the bottom of mine right now, and I spilled water EVERYWHERE draining it the other night. Although, it was mostly my fault for worry more about the tube I was disconnecting and not remembering the radiator was also at the bottom of my loop


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> i can't do any other than a DDC 3.2. I would consider a 3.1 with an aftermarket top (more likely two with a dual ddc top) but the 3.25 runs too hot for my liking. I did like my jingway 1200s but there's little to no aftermarket stuff for them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> My Laing DDC 3.25 bottom is scorching hot even though it's mounted up off the case floor on a UN Designs pump mount, I believe the heat coming off that pump is why my Gel Stuff has turned green when it used to be clear. So I decided to upgrade to the ever lasting Energiser Bunny PMP-450/MCP-655 D5 pump which runs warm at best because of the metal housing used to dissipate heat away from the main pump body.
Click to expand...

That's awesome Systemlord but you could have used this...



If your 3.25 was running too hot. Same results less money.









Still that is a nice pump.









~Ceadder


----------



## 4514kaiser

Hey does that Heat sink for the DDC 3.25 largely increase noise I tried something similar and found it just made the pumps really load.even with the small amount of metal to metal contact I had!


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> no no, Ek block looks amazing, with LED, i have it, i think its unmatched, but this has a differnt look to it


yeah maybe its because i went for the black acetal one


----------



## RushMore1205

need your opion guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What is better for this set up

2x mcp350 vs 2x mcp655

both set ups will have the 2 to 1 pump tops from Bitspowerd

i have loop that is going to be like this

res ---> ?pumps -->Gtx360 rad----> EK HF nikel Plexi ----> gtx360 rad ---> 3x bridged EK fc580 nikel plexi blocks

> back to RES


----------



## duhasttas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> need your opion guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> What is better for this set up
> 2x mcp350 vs 2x mcp655
> both set ups will have the 2 to 1 pump tops from Bitspowerd
> i have loop that is going to be like this
> res ---> ?pumps -->Gtx360 rad----> EK HF nikel Plexi ----> gtx360 rad ---> 3x bridged EK fc580 nikel plexi blocks
> 
> > back to RES


Both are great pumps, and it'll basically be a decision you want to make on size (not that it plays much of a difference anyway). Either way you can't go wrong, but I have read a few posts saying that mcp655s tend to run a tad bit quieter, but none of those opinions were based on actual acoustic testing, just ear


----------



## douglatins

So i just busted 2 ram slots from my mobo because of the raystorm backplate. Now running a EK HF but with 4gb less :'(


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> So i just busted 2 ram slots from my mobo because of the raystorm backplate. Now running a EK HF but with 4gb less :'(


how did this happen?? you got any pics?


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> how did this happen?? you got any pics?


I was trying to remove the backplate which is glued, thanks XSPC. And was having a bad time. I had been working on my water loop for 7 hours, so i wasn't at my best of mind, i used a screwdriver to try to make it pop, i make a tinsy scratch on the mobo, i guess i hit the RAM lanes on the printed circuit directly. Just my luck. WHY coudnt they be a usb port.

I can't get pics since all is up and "running". That was a pricey lesson i learned, was hoping to sell my setup later. I guess the mobo is out of the picture. Os sell it for very low


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> I was trying to remove the backplate which is glued, thanks XSPC. And was having a bad time. I had been working on my water loop for 7 hours, so i wasn't at my best of mind, i used a screwdriver to try to make it pop, i make a tinsy scratch on the mobo, i guess i hit the RAM lanes on the printed circuit directly. Just my luck.
> I can't get pics since all is up and "running". That was a pricey lesson i learned, was hoping to sell my setup later. I guess the mobo is out of the picture. Os sell it for very low


damn that sucks - i got lucky i guess cause i didnt the same thing when it came time to take out my RASA cpu block lol


----------



## CircuitFreak

Post some pics when you can, you may be able to fix it if you have some soldering skills. Bridging traces isn't too bad and a little clear coat of nail polish and it's good as new!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostedevo*
> 
> First attempt at water cooling - RX240 in Corsair 650D. Comments or critique welcome! I always like to know what I can do better next time.
> 
> *Cool stuff:*
> XSPC RX240 rad
> XSPC dual bay res
> XSPC Raystorm cpu block
> Swiftech MCP655 pump
> Gentle Tyhpoon AP15's
> 
> *Hot stuff*:
> i7-3930k @ 4.5GHz for now (125 strap, 1.270vcore, 1.2v vsa)
> Sabertooth X79
> Corsair Dominator GT @ 2000MHz for now (1.5v vdimm)
> Kingwin KZP-1000 Platinum PSU (Super Flower)
> 
> *Coming soon:*
> XSPC EX240 rad for the top
> GTX 680 Hydro Copper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture below is deceiving, theres plenty of space between the drive cage and fans ontop of rad. I was very pleased with all fitment. Theres also a 120x12mm Slipstream fan that fits perfectly between drive cage and front grill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics of the Kingwin/Super Frower 1kW! This is the main reason I could fit the RX240 at the bottom of the 650D. The short length and modular design (and superior performance) made me choose this over a Seasonic or Corsair.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


get another rad uptop and put that 580 under water


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> I was trying to remove the backplate which is glued, thanks XSPC.


Drove me nuts trying to remove my Raystorm from my previous board (P8Z68-V Pro). Felt like I was going to rip the socket from underneath the board. I eventually got out a hair dryer and carefully ran it across the plate. Came off a bit easier but still left that nasty glue residue afterwords.


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*
> 
> Post some pics when you can, you may be able to fix it if you have some soldering skills. Bridging traces isn't too bad and a little clear coat of nail polish and it's good as new!


I bought this pen http://www.ebay.com/itm/CIRCUIT-WRITER-PAD-CONDUCTIVE-TRACE-PEN-SILVER-PEN-/370605330839?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5649cc9197


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> need your opion guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> What is better for this set up
> 2x mcp350 vs 2x mcp655
> both set ups will have the 2 to 1 pump tops from Bitspowerd
> i have loop that is going to be like this
> res ---> ?pumps -->Gtx360 rad----> EK HF nikel Plexi ----> gtx360 rad ---> 3x bridged EK fc580 nikel plexi blocks
> 
> > back to RES


If you go for the 655s make sure to go for the dual uber setup. There really isn't much better except for a dual iwaki RD30 setup. It's nice because they're strong as hell and you don't have to worry about heat like with a ddc style pump.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> If you go for the 655s make sure to go for the dual uber setup. There really isn't much better except for a dual iwaki RD30 setup. It's nice because they're strong as hell and you don't have to worry about heat like with a ddc style pump.


Agreed,1 iwaki is far more powerful than 2 D5s tho...


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> If you go for the 655s make sure to go for the dual uber setup. There really isn't much better except for a dual iwaki RD30 setup. It's nice because they're strong as hell and you don't have to worry about heat like with a ddc style pump.


Don't Iwaki's increase the potential of blowing out o-rings on a regular basis? haha


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's awesome Systemlord but you could have used this...
> 
> If your 3.25 was running too hot. Same results less money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still that is a nice pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks and it's as heavy as a rock now, but wanted a more reliable pump that ran cooler. I thought about adding that Koolance heatsink but once I found out the D5's run cooler and quieter plus people saying their D5s are still working even after seven years I took the plunge. It would be nice if the DDCs had metal internals to help with cooling of the pump.

Instead they have tough plastic that doesn't transfer heat away from the DDC pumps well. Don't get me wrong, my 3.25 DDC has been performing like a champ for almost two years now and is probably overkill for what I'm cooling. I think not being able to adjust the pumps speed is why it runs hot, Martinsliquidlab tested why the DDCs heat up, Heat Scoping article is interesting.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> If you go for the 655s make sure to go for the dual uber setup. There really isn't much better except for a dual iwaki RD30 setup. It's nice because they're strong as hell and you don't have to worry about heat like with a ddc style pump.


The thing I dislike about that Bitspower dual extreme pump top is it will not stand on it's own, it falls backwards. Where would you mount something that large?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> Don't Iwaki's increase the potential of blowing out o-rings on a regular basis? haha


True.
XD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Thanks and it's as heavy as a rock now, but wanted a more reliable pump that ran cooler. I thought about adding that Koolance heatsink but once I found out the D5's run cooler and quieter plus people saying their D5s are still working even after seven years I took the plunge. It would be nice if the DDCs had metal internals to help with cooling of the pump.
> Instead they have tough plastic that doesn't transfer heat away from the DDC pumps well. Don't get me wrong, my 3.25 DDC has been performing like a champ for almost two years now and is probably overkill for what I'm cooling. I think not being able to adjust the pumps speed is why it runs hot, Martinsliquidlab tested why the DDCs heat up, Heat Scoping article is interesting.


D5's are my choice,all day long.


----------



## LCTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> I was trying to remove the backplate which is glued, thanks XSPC. And was having a bad time. I had been working on my water loop for 7 hours, so i wasn't at my best of mind, i used a screwdriver to try to make it pop, i make a tinsy scratch on the mobo, i guess i hit the RAM lanes on the printed circuit directly. Just my luck. WHY coudnt they be a usb port.
> I can't get pics since all is up and "running". That was a pricey lesson i learned, was hoping to sell my setup later. I guess the mobo is out of the picture. Os sell it for very low


That sucks!
I've played with different blocks and found that you don't really have to use the padding's adhesive for the board.
So I just use the padding's adhesive on the back-plate only. That way, when I want to try a new block, it easily comes off the board.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's awesome Systemlord but you could have used this...
> 
> If your 3.25 was running too hot. Same results less money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still that is a nice pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and it's as heavy as a rock now, but wanted a more reliable pump that ran cooler. I thought about adding that Koolance heatsink but once I found out the D5's run cooler and quieter plus people saying their D5s are still working even after seven years I took the plunge. It would be nice if the DDCs had metal internals to help with cooling of the pump.
> 
> Instead they have tough plastic that doesn't transfer heat away from the DDC pumps well. Don't get me wrong, my 3.25 DDC has been performing like a champ for almost two years now and is probably overkill for what I'm cooling. I think not being able to adjust the pumps speed is why it runs hot, Martinsliquidlab tested why the DDCs heat up, Heat Scoping article is interesting.
Click to expand...

My D5 is going into it's fourth year or service between myself and it's previous owner


----------



## Thecityskies

My first WCed PC.
Didn't do that bad but could of been better!








Sorry for the mess.
& my first custom side panel window for the NZXT 210!

Inglewood-20120428-00022.jpg 1307k .jpg file


Inglewood-20120429-00034.jpg 357k .jpg file


Tell me what you guys think?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thecityskies*
> 
> My first WCed PC.
> Didn't do that bad but could of been better!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the mess.
> & my first custom side panel window for the NZXT 210!
> 
> Tell me what you guys think?


Mate, I fixed these for you. Here is your pictures -




Ahh, thats very sexy water cooler rig!


----------



## Thecityskies

Thank You GAMERIG!

Couldn't have done it without the help of fellow OCN members!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thecityskies*
> 
> Thank You GAMERIG!
> Couldn't have done it without the help of fellow OCN members!


MATE, you are more than welcome... BTW- what an outstanding temps are you getting?? I really expect this outperform the cheap closed loop such as Corsair Hydro/ Antec Kühler H2O!









Welcome to OCN WC family!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*


YMCMB, you lose all points.

nice looking rig other than that.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thecityskies*
> 
> My first WCed PC.
> Didn't do that bad but could of been better!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the mess.
> & my first custom side panel window for the NZXT 210!
> 
> Inglewood-20120428-00022.jpg 1307k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Inglewood-20120429-00034.jpg 357k .jpg file
> 
> Tell me what you guys think?






Nice work, especially with the Source 210. You my friend just gave me an Idea of what im going to do with my Source 220 and my RX120! Nice work and those noctua fans look really good with the white case and the white tubing!


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> YMCMB, you lose all points.
> nice looking rig other than that.


^


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> The thing I dislike about that Bitspower dual extreme pump top is it will not stand on it's own, it falls backwards. Where would you mount something that large?


I made a bracket for it. I just dremeled off an arm on each side of the dressup kit stand.






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Agreed,1 iwaki is far more powerful than 2 D5s tho...


Sadly they're ugly as sin and to use their full potential need 24v instead of 12.


----------



## superericla

I did a quick test on a small cup of the Mayhem's pastel uv white with Mayhem's deep blue dye for someone on the forums. Here are my results for anyone interested...

0 drops


5 drops


10 drops


10 drops (no flash)


----------



## Ceadderman

Well if I weren't a devout Distilled man, I'd be all over that Mayhems.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well if I weren't a devout Distilled man, I'd be all over that Mayhems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Haha, I was a distilled-only person for a while. I read up a bit on the Mayhem's and decided to give it a shot. I haven't had a single problem with clogged up blocks or dye issues whatsoever. I can't say I would never go back to distilled, but I do know the only dyes I'll ever use will come from Mayhem's.


----------



## Aventadoor

Ive installed both the UT60 radiators now, but damn... The silverstone filters touch the AP-15 fans so it makes alot of noise








I guess I have to run without filters...


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Ive installed both the UT60 radiators now, but damn... The silverstone filters touch the AP-15 fans so it makes alot of noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I have to run without filters...


Put a gasket or washer on there to have the filer stand off the fan a little


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> I made a bracket for it. I just dremeled off an arm on each side of the dressup kit stand.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly they're ugly as sin and to use their full potential need 24v instead of 12.


i think it looks great man, maybe not the bracket at the bottom but you wont even be able to see that once they are mounted.

Is it the pumps that you find ugly?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I did a quick test on a small cup of the Mayhem's pastel uv white with Mayhem's deep blue dye for someone on the forums. Here are my results for anyone interested...


Where are the UV pics?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Where are the UV pics?


Haha, good point. I mostly did this to show how easy it is to dye. My camera is bad at taking pictures under low-light conditions, otherwise I would have done a comparison with UV lighting as well. I do have one picture of it under UV light after dying with the coolant in my computer in my build log if you're interested.


----------



## Boweezie

Man my pastel and 2nd revision parts are coming in on Thursday







It's gonna be AMAZING. Can't wait to show pics especially with blue pastel dye and a UV green FrozenQ res. I am crossing my fingers and hoping the results will look awesome


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I did a quick test on a small cup of the Mayhem's pastel uv white with Mayhem's deep blue dye for someone on the forums. Here are my results for anyone interested...
> 0 drops
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5 drops
> 
> 10 drops
> 
> 10 drops (no flash)


red is a bit more interesting to get past pink









I wish I didn't have to match my board's color. yellow,green, blue, or orange are more interesting


----------



## xNAPx

My solution for external radiator build





what do you think?


----------



## xNAPx

I'm pretty new to water cooling and i have a couple of questions

This is my reservoir







which is the hole IN and the hole OUT?
The water has to be pulled in by the upside hole? the one with the big screw right?

with my kit (a CPU cooling loop) i have 1000ml of water, it's enough?

where can i put my pump? Can i put it on the power supply?


----------



## DrJns

Here was my build with the 7970:


----------



## TwentyCent

Dayum, Schmexy!


----------



## Boweezie

Super nice looking build! Very clean. Loving the white pastel. Can't get better than that for a black and white build.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Here was my build with the 7970:






Nice rig, what happen to it? Do I spot four fans in front of the 200mm rad?


----------



## smex




----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice rig, what happen to it? Do I spot four fans in front of the 200mm rad?


yes, there are four fans, and the more i look at them the more i realize i should paint those white also. i wanted everything pwm controlled, so couldn't put a 200mm fan up there. i still have the same rig, but i swapped the 7970 for a 680 and a copper block. just isn't as pretty anymore.


----------



## DaClownie

I need a camera, but this is the new i7 3770k / 7970 build...










EDIT: I'm also terrible at wire management. And I need to sleeve some stuff... other than that? perfect.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> yes, there are four fans, and the more i look at them the more i realize i should paint those white also. i wanted everything pwm controlled, so couldn't put a 200mm fan up there. i still have the same rig, but i swapped the 7970 for a 680 and a copper block. just isn't as pretty anymore.


It looks great! but definitely paint the fans. Id say just get the Swiftech Helix fans, but they are not PWM


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNAPx*
> 
> I'm pretty new to water cooling and i have a couple of questions
> 
> This is my reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which is the hole IN and the hole OUT?
> The water has to be pulled in by the upside hole? the one with the big screw right?
> 
> with my kit (a CPU cooling loop) i have 1000ml of water, it's enough?
> 
> where can i put my pump? Can i put it on the power supply?


You're pullin our leg right?

In says "IN" and Out says "Out" You don't *have to* fill through the big opening in the top if your fillport is higher than the Res and you run a T line or use it as a Fillport Res showing you the level your Loop is at.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well if I weren't a devout Distilled man, I'd be all over that Mayhems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I hear ya, that's why I bought a FrozenQ helix res from Alex and I'm going to run distilled and silver. I didn't have a very successful venture in dyes, though this time around its not the dye's fault









Something weird with my loop. I just removed the gpu(s) from the system to prep them for shipment and the water was very diluted. Don't know what happened to all the Mayhems dye and most of the tube looks clear 







Anyways, no point to look into that since I'm ready to flush it completely.

I'm planning a new gpu loop. Anyone know if you can link two dual-link bridges from HK? They are working on a quad system but its not going to be available for some time.


----------



## Lazy Bear

So, after a while of working, here we go!


























































So, what, am I in?

Edit: Sorry for the large images D:


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thecityskies*
> 
> My first WCed PC.
> Didn't do that bad but could of been better!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the mess.
> & my first custom side panel window for the NZXT 210!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Inglewood-20120428-00022.jpg 1307k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Inglewood-20120429-00034.jpg 357k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> Tell me what you guys think?


Your Water Cooler RIG with RX120 actually INSPIRED me.

but I can ask you, why selling your inspiring water cooler rig on Craigslist? You're not happy with it? Or you bought it from Owner?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> I made a bracket for it. I just dremeled off an arm on each side of the dressup kit stand.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly they're ugly as sin and to use their full potential need 24v instead of 12.


I feel a lot better about my purchase now after seeing those pictures, if I ever need a second D5 I will just mount the second D5 next to my pump #1. I'm going to be using that Gel Stuff under my D5 Bitspower pump mount! I'm using it now and I've never hear my pump, but the heat from my DDC 3.25 has turned my Gel Stuff green.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well if I weren't a devout Distilled man, I'd be all over that Mayhems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hear ya, that's why I bought a FrozenQ helix res from Alex and I'm going to run distilled and silver. I didn't have a very successful venture in dyes, though this time around its not the dye's fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something weird with my loop. I just removed the gpu(s) from the system to prep them for shipment and the water was very diluted. Don't know what happened to all the Mayhems dye and most of the tube looks clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, no point to look into that since I'm ready to flush it completely.
> 
> I'm planning a new gpu loop. Anyone know if you can link two dual-link bridges from HK? They are working on a quad system but its not going to be available for some time.
Click to expand...

Should be able to with two rotary male male fittings. would be a little difficult unless you have a slim tool to connect the final bits though. Unless you have enough room to use BP Dplug connectors. Not sure that it's worth the headache of making the attempt. Might as well just wait an hope that the Quad comes out soon enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*


Those rad fans are tragically pink


----------



## xNAPx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You're pullin our leg right?
> In says "IN" and Out says "Out" You don't *have to* fill through the big opening in the top if your fillport is higher than the Res and you run a T line or use it as a Fillport Res showing you the level your Loop is at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I 'didn't get what you explained me(i'm italian) can you be more clear?, but i just realized those IN and OUT word in the image lol XD


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> yes, there are four fans, and the more i look at them the more i realize i should paint those white also. i wanted everything pwm controlled, so couldn't put a 200mm fan up there. i still have the same rig, but i swapped the 7970 for a 680 and a copper block. just isn't as pretty anymore.


ohhhh, well that's cool. What's it look like now?


----------



## Aventadoor

Which UV Red tubes have the darkest red color?
I will be using clear premixed fluid


----------



## nicoliani

Allot of blue LED.
You know blue LED isn't good for your health.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> You know blue LED isn't good for your health.


-1 rep


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Those rad fans are tragically pink


The Yate Loons look pink in every image of them, but I swear they aren't pink!

Also, Caedderman, if you still need Corsair HX850 six/eight pins I have like
15. Do you still need them? I'd be glad to help out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Those rad fans are tragically pink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Yate Loons look pink in every image of them, but I swear they aren't pink!
> 
> Also, Caedderman, if you still need Corsair HX850 six/eight pins I have like
> 15. Do you still need them? I'd be glad to help out.
Click to expand...

Yeah I need one more.









I have one on it's way should be here tomorrow or so.









PM'in you my addy now.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> Allot of blue LED.
> You know blue LED isn't good for your health.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


+1 Rep to even out the impact of the -1Rep.









~Ceadder


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Which UV Red tubes have the darkest red color?
> I will be using clear premixed fluid


Don't use Feser, mine supposed to be Red UV but looks more like orange...


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Your Water Cooler RIG with RX120 actually INSPIRED me.
> but I can ask you, why selling your inspiring water cooler rig on Craigslist? You're not happy with it? Or you bought it from Owner?






His rig gave me an idea too. This is my folding rig and figured I'd put the RX120 to use. The extra tubes will be cleaned up tonight. This should be running before the ChimpChallenge starts.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## mironccr345

^^ That is sweet looking.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


What mounting is that for? That looks like a LARGE copper block... 2011?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> His rig gave me an idea too. This is my folding rig and figured I'd put the RX120 to use. The extra tubes will be cleaned up tonight. This should be running before the ChimpChallenge starts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mordocai rp

Guys, im using a ft02 case with a magicool 540mm rad. Also using a bmaverick pump, with a heatkiller 3.0 block. According to core temp with all 3 of my fans at highest my cpu is 70c what gives? the pumps running fine, i have a switech microres and 1/2 tubing. Other than the temp problem the bmaverick liang ddc pump sure is loud lol


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> Guys, im using a ft02 case with a magicool 540mm rad. Also using a bmaverick pump, with a heatkiller 3.0 block. According to core temp with all 3 of my fans at highest my cpu is 70c what gives? the pumps running fine, i have a switech microres and 1/2 tubing. Other than the temp problem the bmaverick liang ddc pump sure is loud lol


Sorry that I can't help with your problem, but can you tell me what GPU you can fit in the case with the radiator at the bottom? Pics?


----------



## Hydrored

Im running dual ddc pumps and the only time they are loud if there is air in the system. I suggest you try to see if you can get any more air out. Any pics ? Im building a ft02 right now with a 540 rad.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> Guys, im using a ft02 case with a magicool 540mm rad. Also using a bmaverick pump, with a heatkiller 3.0 block. According to core temp with all 3 of my fans at highest my cpu is 70c what gives? the pumps running fine, i have a switech microres and 1/2 tubing. Other than the temp problem the bmaverick liang ddc pump sure is loud lol


70c idle? Any OC? I would remove the block, check the TIM spread, and reseat. Hopefully that's all it is


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> Im running dual ddc pumps and the only time they are loud if there is air in the system. I suggest you try to see if you can get any more air out. Any pics ? Im building a ft02 right now with a 540 rad.


Please share what GPUs fit. I love that case but didn't think rad + 680 would fit


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Please share what GPUs fit. I love that case but didn't think rad + 680 would fit


running a zotac 560 with bottom sided plugs and it fits. Dimensions( in mm): 228.6 x 111.3 x 33.5
9" x 4.38" x 1.32" with 2" of room till it touches the rad
a 680 going by these dimensions http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130768 will fit in a modded ft02(minor mod)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> Im running dual ddc pumps and the only time they are loud if there is air in the system. I suggest you try to see if you can get any more air out. Any pics ? Im building a ft02 right now with a 540 rad.


its loud as in a servo type of sound. I tryed to let it sit for 72hrs so i dont think theres a lot of air. Its a winding type of noise

also no oc on my i5 2500k. I'm going to try reseating it. Also i took apart the cpu block earlier and am wondering if I may have put it on with the threads facing the wrong way?

this is what it is now, before reseating, gonna wait to reseat it as i have some things to do first


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> just updating my rig
> Very annoyed at this picture as you can see one of the main reasons I went white tubes was to get a UV glow effect and clearly these white tubes do nto reflect any UV and barely any blue led off the fan very dissappointed....
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - 10ft Retail Pack - White (PFLEXP10-758-W)
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> 7/16" with 1/2" barb fittings is the way to go.
> Just gotta refine it a bit. I.E. Paper towels. lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Thats because Primochill do not make a UV white tube-hence no UV effect- if i recall Mastercleer do
> . Also bear in mind that any other light source within your rig lessens the effect of UV lights.
> Thirdly Cathodes are bulky and have an inverter which can be a pain to hide, and they are not the most powerful light source(plus they generate alot of heat compared to led strips)-go for LED high density UV strips (like the Phobya) they give off more light, less heat and are neater to work with.
> Go here-a little help for when choosing tubing in the future mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?257991-Review-Comparison-between-3-8-quot-5-8-quot-Tubing-Tygon-Primochill-Masterkleer-Koolance
> Good luck


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moa.*
> 
> I guess he assumed, (I would to) that anything that is white in colour glows under UV, I can't understand why his tubing does not...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20061117032629AAURNCJ
> Happy reading


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> thanks for the response had i known this i would of never ordered the white from the store esp since the store told it it would glow and that "ALL" white reflected UV.... O well 20bucks spent and gone I can always reuse and be happy with the UV strips in another setup. I do like that link you sent very informative.


This is the best picture i can make with my phone camera, i do plan on buying led strips not sure white or blue but i imagine they would look great because when i shine normal flashlight on the white tubing it does look nice doesnt reflect but white light reflects on almost anything white tubing however does not!

thanks for all responses just wanted to make sure i responded to everyone for the help and my delayed response heh

note to all others, not all white tubing even if the store says it reflects UV or other lights is true do your research!









By nycste at 2012-04-24


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> running a zotac 560 with bottom sided plugs and it fits. Dimensions( in mm): 228.6 x 111.3 x 33.5
> 9" x 4.38" x 1.32" with 2" of room till it touches the rad
> a 680 going by these dimensions http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130768 will fit in a modded ft02(minor mod)
> its loud as in a servo type of sound. I tryed to let it sit for 72hrs so i dont think theres a lot of air. Its a winding type of noise
> also no oc on my i5 2500k. I'm going to try reseating it. Also i took apart the cpu block earlier and am wondering if I may have put it on with the threads facing the wrong way?
> this is what it is now, before reseating, gonna wait to reseat it as i have some things to do first


Threads in the wrong position could be a very real possibility. You could just have the IN and OUT switched. Or the jetplate is in the wrong orientation perhaps. What waterblock are you using?


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> What mounting is that for? That looks like a LARGE copper block... 2011?


Yep, for all Intel Sockets :

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Wasserkuehlung/CPU-Wasserkuehler/Wakue-fuer-Intel-Sockel-2011/Coollaboratory-Liquid-Cooler-ALPHEOS-Intel-Edition::18061.html


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Threads in the wrong position could be a very real possibility. You could just have the IN and OUT switched. Or the jetplate is in the wrong orientation perhaps. What waterblock are you using?


heatkiller 3.0 . How can i mess up the in out? it goes like this for my pc


----------



## Thecityskies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Your Water Cooler RIG with RX120 actually INSPIRED me.
> but I can ask you, why selling your inspiring water cooler rig on Craigslist? You're not happy with it? Or you bought it from Owner?


Selling it because I need funds for my car!
If anyone is located locally I'll be able to do a deal since I need the cash ASAP!


----------



## Thecityskies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> His rig gave me an idea too. This is my folding rig and figured I'd put the RX120 to use. The extra tubes will be cleaned up tonight. This should be running before the ChimpChallenge starts.


Your very welcome!
Your rig looks amazing!!!!


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> heatkiller 3.0 . How can i mess up the in out? it goes like this for my pc


woah, you have your pump going to your res?? thats a big no no - no wonder your pump is making lots of noise!!!! turn off that system off immediately before you burn out your pump and cpu. You need to have res then pump to feed water to it!


----------



## nycste

Yes everyone has recommended really only 1 thing and that 1 thing being RES before Pump and nothing else in regards to loop order matters.

RES - PUMP - CPU - RAD - RES

or

RES - PUMP - RAD - CPU - RES (what i personally do)

glucks


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> woah, you have your pump going to your res?? thats a big no no - no wonder your pump is making lots of noise!!!! turn off that system off immediately before you burn out your pump and cpu. You need to have res then pump to feed water to it!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Yes everyone has recommended really only 1 thing and that 1 thing being RES before Pump and nothing else in regards to loop order matters.
> RES - PUMP - CPU - RAD - RES
> or
> RES - PUMP - RAD - CPU - RES (what i personally do)
> glucks


i made sure the pump was full of water first. Oh well moving one tube aint hard







. Anyways thanks for the infos you guys, ill rearrange it when i change my block plate orientation. The noise it made wasen;t a grinding one btw, it was a kind of whorling like a hdd makes.
EDIT; it works now properly. I switched to res infront of pump and now it works amazing. 34c idle temps though, seems a bit high for a 540mm fan. Granted it has filters on both sides impeding airflow a bit, but atleast it works guys. Didn't work in a 4pin connection though, had to use a fan header. Also tips on how to bleed the system? I keep having tiny tiny tiny air bubbles going into the pump rarely, but every couple of seconds i see 5-8 of them buggers


----------



## RushMore1205

man im so torn now, i freaking love my bitspower compressions, but the moonsson or what ever is just so sleek and sexy looking

but silver shining still takes the cake for me i think, i ll have to get both and see how it turns out on my coming build


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey guys, sorry about being so desperately behind on updating. I have been incredibly busy the last few weeks and unable to keep up.

Unfortunately, I do not see this situation becoming any better, and because of this I am looking for someone to take over this thread for me.

If you would like to volunteer, please PM me.

Thanks guys!


----------



## Proj Frostfire

Just thought I should post a pic of the rig I have been working on.


----------



## RushMore1205

check out what i got for 37$ plus tax, that was a great day


----------



## Farih

Hey guys,

I have a CM Storm Sniper case [not the best for W/C] and would like to add another 240mm rad.
I have a 240 rad on the top and a 120mm rad on the rear now.

Is there any way to fit another 240mm rad internally ?
Anyone done this before with this case ?
A picture would be nice









Btw:
The new 240mm rad will be only 35mm thick.

Thx in advance.


----------



## Hydrored

What's everyone's general consensus on Monsoons fittings? I'm going to be placing an order for fittings and want to know if they are worth it over compression. Thanks!


----------



## Onions

im sorry to say there not.. there not that great at holding a tbe in. but the look amaing... if you want them get some zip ties that are identical tube color and use them oon the barbs as well as the 'compression" part


----------



## Proj Frostfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> im sorry to say there not.. there not that great at holding a tbe in. but the look amaing... if you want them get some zip ties that are identical tube color and use them oon the barbs as well as the 'compression" part


I dont agree with that my fittings are amazing, they secure the tubing very well even to the point of excess.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Yes everyone has recommended really only 1 thing and that 1 thing being RES before Pump and nothing else in regards to loop order matters.
> RES - PUMP - CPU - RAD - RES
> or
> *RES - PUMP - RAD - CPU - RES* (what i personally do)
> glucks


see **BOLD* highlight* ..


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Proj Frostfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> im sorry to say there not.. there not that great at holding a tbe in. but the look amaing... if you want them get some zip ties that are identical tube color and use them oon the barbs as well as the 'compression" part
> 
> 
> 
> I dont agree with that my fittings are amazing, they secure the tubing very well even to the point of excess.
Click to expand...

What did you use for 45's and 90's?
Thanks
Any pics?


----------



## phillyd

if i attach my tubing to a rad and fill and shake it so there is no air, then attach it into my loop between my res and pump? it wouild really make my tubing look better if i could somehow go res>rad>pump


----------



## Hydrored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> if i attach my tubing to a rad and fill and shake it so there is no air, then attach it into my loop between my res and pump? it wouild really make my tubing look better if i could somehow go res>rad>pump


You need flow through the rad for cooling. I did not look at your build but unless your res is filled to the top creating pressure I would not recommend res-rad-pump


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> hey guys, sorry about being so desperately behind on updating. I have been incredibly busy the last few weeks and unable to keep up.
> Unfortunately, I do not see this situation becoming any better, and because of this I am looking for someone to take over this thread for me.
> If you would like to volunteer, please PM me.
> Thanks guys!


*raises hand*


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> hey guys, sorry about being so desperately behind on updating. I have been incredibly busy the last few weeks and unable to keep up.
> Unfortunately, I do not see this situation becoming any better, and because of this I am looking for someone to take over this thread for me.
> If you would like to volunteer, please PM me.
> Thanks guys!


I nominate the Jesus


----------



## Onions

updated to post 20k... i think its fair to let everyone know that i have stepped up and will be updating posts as well.. you will notice at the bottom of teh sheet on the front page we have added a post with a link. thats for us and for you so you know if we got to your post or not. If i missed anyone dont hesitate to let me know


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I nominate the Jesus


Thanks but someone else already got it







Maybe I'll get picked as a moderator, I don't think they ever did decide on the most recent round.


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have a CM Storm Sniper case [not the best for W/C] and would like to add another 240mm rad.
> I have a 240 rad on the top and a 120mm rad on the rear now.
> Is there any way to fit another 240mm rad internally ?
> Anyone done this before with this case ?
> A picture would be nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw:
> The new 240mm rad will be only 35mm thick.
> Thx in advance.


I would yank the bottom drive cage out and mount the rad in the bottom. Look for CM Sniper and 922 builds that might have done this because the 922 shares the same overall chassis design.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> What's everyone's general consensus on Monsoons fittings? I'm going to be placing an order for fittings and want to know if they are worth it over compression. Thanks!


The fittings are solid and high quality, but I like the look of the bits powers better. I will use those instead on my next build. Pics of black monsoons on white tubing are in my build log.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> im sorry to say there not.. there not that great at holding a tbe in. but the look amaing... if you want them get some zip ties that are identical tube color and use them oon the barbs as well as the 'compression" part


They hold mine in perfectly. Zip ties + barbs would be hideous.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> check out what i got for 37$ plus tax, that was a great day
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You got that at Fry's didn't you? I'm comin over to yo house wit ma posse Rush. Case better be out on the stoop when I get there.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Farih

lets try again









I have a CM Storm Sniper case [not the best for W/C] and would like to add another 240mm rad.
I have a 240 rad on the top and a 120mm rad on the rear now.

Is there any way to fit another 240mm rad internally ?
Anyone done this before with this case ?
A picture would be nice

Btw:
The new 240mm rad will be only 35mm thick.

Thx in advance.


----------



## sate200




----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> lets try again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a CM Storm Sniper case [not the best for W/C] and would like to add another 240mm rad.
> I have a 240 rad on the top and a 120mm rad on the rear now.
> Is there any way to fit another 240mm rad internally ?
> Anyone done this before with this case ?
> A picture would be nice
> Btw:
> The new 240mm rad will be only 35mm thick.
> Thx in advance.


Hi Farih, not sure if you seen it but HAFenvy posted a reply (#20766). Sorry but I'm not sure about the CM cases myself, best of luck with your modding.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice color theme..

So you have the Huge Corsair Obsidian and a huge Rad box?, I was able to fit 9x120mm on the Obsidian 800D without rad Box.

Your Monster must take a lot of space


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Hi Farih, not sure if you seen it but HAFenvy posted a reply (#20766). Sorry but I'm not sure about the CM cases myself, best of luck with your modding.


Ohw, i missed that one, thanks for pointing it out.

Wondering if a 1x200mm rad fits in the front.
A 200mm fan fits there but dont know if a 200mm rad would fit becuase of the fittings.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Ohw, i missed that one, thanks for pointing it out.
> Wondering if a 1x200mm rad fits in the front.
> A 200mm fan fits there but dont know if a 200mm rad would fit becuase of the fittings.


Choose a rad, get the measurements, cut some cardboard to size and shape and try it









I don't know the case but you could have the fittings at the bottom, then they wouldn't interfere with anything.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Hi Farih, not sure if you seen it but HAFenvy posted a reply (#20766). Sorry but I'm not sure about the CM cases myself, best of luck with your modding.
> 
> 
> 
> Ohw, i missed that one, thanks for pointing it out.
> 
> Wondering if a 1x200mm rad fits in the front.
> A 200mm fan fits there but dont know if a 200mm rad would fit becuase of the fittings.
Click to expand...

i would consider a 180mm rad to fit in instead of a 200


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> Choose a rad, get the measurements, cut some cardboard to size and shape and try it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know the case but you could have the fittings at the bottom, then they wouldn't interfere with anything.


OMG, why didnt i think of that, great simple advice.. thx.

Easiest route seems to be a new case but this one was rather expensive and a new one will probably be alot of money to








Wish i had watercooling in mind when i bought this case...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Being a newbie to water cooling, I obviously don't have all the answers... So if this question is a no-brainer, then I apologize in advance for my ignorance.

When connecting motherboard blocks and CPU blocks through 90 degree angles, what are the standard ID/OD sizes to use?

I am running 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD tubing throughout my system, and all that I have left is the mobo & cpu blocks to connect. I've seen a few setups in this thread whereby all the other tubing is larger, but the mobo & cpu fittings and angles are smaller. Is this due to them being in a sighter space, or is this something that's recommended in general?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Just did an update on my rig. This is my summer PC. I did this update in order to benefit of the beautiful summer that is coming (and waiting for 3 x GTX 680 FTW 4 GB)


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Being a newbie to water cooling, I obviously don't have all the answers... So if this question is a no-brainer, then I apologize for my ignorance in advance"
> When connecting motherboard blocks and CPU blocks through 90 degree angles, what are the standard ID/OD sizes to use?
> I am running 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD tubing throughout my system, and all that I have left is the mobo & cpu blocks to connect. I've seen a few setups in this thread whereby all the other tubing is larger, but the mobo & cpu fittings and angles are smaller. Is this due to them being in a sighter space, or is this something that's recommended in general?
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


I used 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD TUBE for my mobo to CPU connections. If you look at the Inner Diameter, the difference between your 1/2" ID and 3/8" ID is only 1/8" . 3/8" ID is almost the same size as 4/8" (1/2")

I hope you understand what I mean. That was my way of thinking, and my flow is far from being affected.

This being said, since the ID is closely the same as the 1/2"ID, the OD is much more easier to manoeuvre since its 1/2"OD

Outside Diameter difference between both size:

1/2" = 4/8"
3/4" = 6/8"


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> What's everyone's general consensus on Monsoons fittings? I'm going to be placing an order for fittings and want to know if they are worth it over compression. Thanks!


I have the 1/2 x 3/4 and they are great. No issues. tight fit and easy installation. I say gor for it. I bout 3 of the 6pks.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> What's everyone's general consensus on Monsoons fittings? I'm going to be placing an order for fittings and want to know if they are worth it over compression. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I have the 1/2 x 3/4 and they are great. No issues. tight fit and easy installation. I say gor for it. I bout 3 of the 6pks.
Click to expand...

18 fittings? how many rads do you have? (6 for blocks, 4 for pump/res) 4 rads?


----------



## 3lka




----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3lka*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sir, that is most definitely not a commadore 64!


----------



## HAFenvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Ohw, i missed that one, thanks for pointing it out.
> Wondering if a 1x200mm rad fits in the front.
> A 200mm fan fits there but dont know if a 200mm rad would fit becuase of the fittings.


I looked at the Phobya 200mm for the front but it is a bit too tall in order to fit under the 5.25in (like you said, due to the fittings). It would take some 5.25in bay modding to get that thing in there and I considered it at one point but then realized it was more hassle than it was worth (for me anyway). Definitely print out the size of the radiator as skaboy607 suggested, it makes life easier to see where things actually will go and I did that myself with my double in the top.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Being a newbie to water cooling, I obviously don't have all the answers... So if this question is a no-brainer, then I apologize in advance for my ignorance.
> When connecting motherboard blocks and CPU blocks through 90 degree angles, what are the standard ID/OD sizes to use?
> I am running 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD tubing throughout my system, and all that I have left is the mobo & cpu blocks to connect. I've seen a few setups in this thread whereby all the other tubing is larger, but the mobo & cpu fittings and angles are smaller. Is this due to them being in a sighter space, or is this something that's recommended in general?
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Generally having the MB and CPU blocks in close proximity to one another sometimes requires a tubing with a smaller ID, a 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD tubing will bend further without it kinking. I'm currently moving from 1/2 ID tubing to 3/8 ID tubing because it bends to any degree with no kinking, I still find it amazing that there is little to no flow advantage between 1/2 ID and 3/8 ID tubing!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I used 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD TUBE for my mobo to CPU connections. If you look at the Inner Diameter, the difference between your 1/2" ID and 3/8" ID is only 1/8" . 3/8" ID is almost the same size as 4/8" (1/2")
> I hope you understand what I mean. That was my way of thinking, and my flow is far from being affected.
> This being said, since the ID is closely the same as the 1/2"ID, the OD is much more easier to manoeuvre since its 1/2"OD
> Outside Diameter difference between both size:
> 1/2" = 4/8"
> 3/4" = 6/8"


I see you have a RIVE just like me. Your tube routing is similar to the way mine is currently setup, except the entrance and exits on your top and bottom blocks are reversed on my setup. My pump/res is coming from the bay, and upon exiting the mobo & cpu, it flows upwards to a rear facing rad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Generally having the MB and CPU blocks in close proximity to one another sometimes requires a tubing with a smaller ID, a 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD tubing will bend further without it kinking. I'm currently moving from 1/2 ID tubing to 3/8 ID tubing because it bends to any degree with no kinking, I still find it amazing that there is little to no flow advantage between 1/2 ID and 3/8 ID tubing!


It still has to step down to a 10mm bore on the fitting,these determine flow rates as they are the greatest restriction


----------



## Aventadoor

After owning the UT60s for 2 weeks now I kinda regret getting them...
Ofcourse the performance is probly great, but the quality on the product itself is not so brilliant.
One of the radiators even came with something inside it which is impossible to flush out.
The threads for the mounting screws is also very bad. 3 of the threads where actually broken.
Unfortunaly for me its more expensive to return them and so on, therefore I have to keep them!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It still has to step down to a 10mm bore on the fitting,these determine flow rates as they are the greatest restriction


Not trying to sound like a wise-ass, but... what do you recommend then?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Not trying to sound like a wise-ass, but... what do you recommend then?


Whatever you like the look of,i like 16/10mm, others like sausage tubes...


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3lka*


+1 for the way you kept the 24-pin wires in line. I'll be sure to do that if/when I ever sleeve my PSU.


----------



## crept1o

Not a ideal case, bit of a mess but there you go it is what it is.


----------



## derickwm

Seems like that could be a lot more effective if you switched the 120mm rad input/output. Have the GPU go into the closer port of the rad and have it go out on the farther side.


----------



## Hydrored

Alright need the OCN crews opinion. Do you think it will be covering to much if I make a black or white plexiglass to cover the area where the white and cardboard is? the cardboard part will be smaller going from the bottom to the top covering the drive bays. I'm running pastel white from Mayhem so I think the white plexi way be to much white.
Thanks!

Edit: I could also make it out of aluminum


----------



## douglatins

Guys what do you do when the tubing brace part of the compression fitting is harder to unscrew than the fitting thread? One of my tubing from a compression fitting is to my belief not all the way down, but when i try to remove the brace the entire fitting comes off.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Guys what do you do when the tubing brace part of the compression fitting is harder to unscrew than the fitting thread? One of my tubing from a compression fitting is to my belief not all the way down, but when i try to remove the brace the entire fitting comes off.


I hold the tubing in place while twisting. Usually works.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Guys what do you do when the tubing brace part of the compression fitting is harder to unscrew than the fitting thread? One of my tubing from a compression fitting is to my belief not all the way down, but when i try to remove the brace the entire fitting comes off.


Try rubber finger cots or rubber bands. Also make sure to back the thread off in the tightening process. Basically you start the threading process then back it off to gain as much thread to thread contact as you can get w/o cross-threading the collar. If it's hard to remove just wrap a few rubber bands tightly around the collar. Grip and remove the collar from the barb.









~Ceadder


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It still has to step down to a 10mm bore on the fitting,these determine flow rates as they are the greatest restriction


From my understanding and all of the overclocking guides I've read in the past 2+ years is that there is little to no flow advantage between 7/16" ID, 1/2 ID and 3/8 ID tubing. You can find these guides in the Water Cooling Essential Threads and Water Cooling FAQ to get n00b's.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3lka*


that nice! whats the cpu block


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> that nice! whats the cpu block


Looks like EK HF Supreme White Edition. The GPU block also seems to be an EK block.

Pretty nice loop you have there 3lka.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> that nice! whats the cpu block


Looks to be an EK Supreme HF with a white acetal top. You can kind of see the 'EK' trademark lettering on the block.


----------



## phillyd

*Help!*

my DDC 355 pump from bmav isnt working on any 3 or 4 pin headers

it has 4 pins


----------



## kamikaze_

I'll be picking up on an EVGA X58 E762 (edit, lower priced board decision) *EVGA X58 SLI FTW3* in about a week. My Rampage III Extreme, I have had it for a while, a little bit of water got on the PCB when the board was not even powered on while I was re-doing my water cooling configuration. I dried it, took the MB heat sink off, compress air'd the water out of it, and made sure there was no corrosion on the PCB at all, all of the LEDs/ROG logo comes on like it's a working board, but it REFUSES to power on. I spent hours taking close looks at the solder points for anything suspicious and came up with nothing. I still prefer to use my six core 980X, I don't think I really want to move to Sandy Bridge/E or Ivy Bridge and spend a lot more money when I have a really expensive processor that still is in working condition.









@Karlitos, did you already sell the EK Rampage III Extreme block? I would have gotten back to you sooner about it, but I have been busy and having this issue occur, I don't think I want to buy another Rampage III board.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> I'll be picking up on an EVGA X58 E762 in about a week. My Rampage III Extreme, I have had it for a while, a little bit of water got on the PCB when the board was not even powered on while I was re-doing my water cooling configuration. I dried it, took the MB heat sink off, compress air'd the water out of it, and made sure there was no corrosion on the PCB at all, all of the LEDs/ROG logo comes on like it's a working board, but it REFUSES to power on. I spent hours taking close looks at the solder points for anything suspicious and came up with nothing. I still prefer to use my six core 980X, I don't think I really want to move to Sandy Bridge/E or Ivy Bridge and spend a lot more money when I have a really expensive processor that still is in working condition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Karlitos, did you already sell the EK Rampage III Extreme block? I would have gotten back to you sooner about it, but I have been busy and having this issue occur, I don't think I want to buy another Rampage III board.


Yes its been sold for a while, sorry my friend.


----------



## kamikaze_

No worries.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> *Help!*
> 
> my DDC 355 pump from bmav isnt working on any 3 or 4 pin headers
> 
> it has 4 pins


Kay man, far as I know it's a DDC-1T...

Did you have to swap pins round? Were it on flat plug? Need some info to get you goin.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> From my understanding and all of the overclocking guides I've read in the past 2+ years is that there is little to no flow advantage between 7/16" ID, 1/2 ID and 3/8 ID tubing. You can find these guides in the Water Cooling Essential Threads and Water Cooling FAQ to get n00b's.


There is no advantage to fat tubing,this is correct..it all has to stepdown to the bore size of the fitting,thus creating the flow restriction
I'm not sure what you are getting at,the post you quoted is in answer to that same question.


----------



## wermad

I will say that thicker walled tube has a the advantage of bending more fluid and resisting kinks. Though there's no advantage in thermal performance when considering this aspect


----------



## derickwm

After playing with some 1/4 tubing I can say that the flow seemed quite slowww


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I will say that thicker walled tube has a the advantage of bending more fluid and resisting kinks. Though there's no advantage in thermal performance when considering this aspect


Agreed.
I used to use 16/10mm...now I just use 10mm copper


----------



## crept1o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Seems like that could be a lot more effective if you switched the 120mm rad input/output. Have the GPU go into the closer port of the rad and have it go out on the farther side.


do you mean have it pump into the rad first then into the GPU, some say it doesn't make much difference, ive got no idea i am new to this water cooling. id like the rad on top of the case but there isn't enough room..

also what is best way to drain them? just use a syphon pump?


----------



## skitzab1

hi guys some may know me some may not







anyways

hope you all like this




skitzab1 black purple /// UV sky blue coolant

dose go on and get into pumptemps betwean the d5 and ddc not in depth but will be doing one soon


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> *Help!*
> 
> my DDC 355 pump from bmav isnt working on any 3 or 4 pin headers
> 
> it has 4 pins
> 
> 
> 
> Kay man, far as I know it's a DDC-1T...
> 
> Did you have to swap pins round? Were it on flat plug? Need some info to get you goin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

i have tried wiring it into a 2 pin fan header with wires 1 and 3 and it didnt power

its 4 wires in a 6pin fan style connector


----------



## Slap Dash

Can i Join  & before anyone says, Yes i am aware of the Airflow Fan on the RAM, I corrected this after the Pic


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> *Help!*
> 
> my DDC 355 pump from bmav isnt working on any 3 or 4 pin headers
> 
> it has 4 pins
> 
> 
> 
> Kay man, far as I know it's a DDC-1T...
> 
> Did you have to swap pins round? Were it on flat plug? Need some info to get you goin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i have tried wiring it into a 2 pin fan header with wires 1 and 3 and it didnt power
> 
> its 4 wires in a 6pin fan style connector
Click to expand...

Kay philly, here is an old pic I have but the pinout is shown in it with the original connection as it was the day I first received my first one. Does your connector look like this one?










the two connections close together are Tach and PWM. PWM doesn't work as far as we know. Tach does work. The two connections split apart from each other are + and -.

Hopefully this gets you on track. If not lend a shout an I'll try ta get you up an running.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kay philly, here is an old pic I have but the pinout is shown in it with the original connection as it was the day I first received my first one. Does your connector look like this one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the two connections close together are Tach and PWM. PWM doesn't work as far as we know. Tach does work. The two connections split apart from each other are + and -.
> 
> Hopefully this gets you on track. If not lend a shout an I'll try ta get you up an running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


which wires go in each spot? and what does that connect to?


----------



## axipher

I just took the (+) and (-) wires out of that massive connector and put them in a regular 3-pin connector since they use the same crimp connectors then plugged that in to a 4-pin Molex to 3-pin adapter and run at at 12 V 24/7.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slap Dash*
> 
> Can i Join  & before anyone says, Yes i am aware of the Airflow Fan on the RAM, I corrected this after the Pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Good job man! I like it!


----------



## skitzab1

if ur stuck man u know whare to find me









i got the fan controller and 2 ddc here remember


----------



## phillyd

thanks skitz,maybe later tonight


----------



## bundymania

New Review is online:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup


----------



## KaRLiToS

@ Bundy?

What is that, a CPU Block internal? Looks...different?


----------



## axipher

Red anti-kink wrapped around the H80:


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Review is online:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup


Great review, new i should have gone with Aquacomputer's to bad it took them an age to get stock to Aquatunning wait 2 months and they still did not have stock so i just went with EK NM. Ty great review as always









vielen dank!


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 18 fittings? how many rads do you have? (6 for blocks, 4 for pump/res) 4 rads?


Well I initially was going to do a full system WC job. 3 rads (6fittings), res (2), GPU(2), RAM (4), Mobo block (2-4). I decided not to because I think it would have looked too cluttered.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> After playing with some 1/4 tubing I can say that the flow seemed quite slowww


Yes I know it!, Know it!









as Corsair's Hydro is an example, Some still complaint about their high temp, on and on. All C-Hydro's 1/4 narrow tubing, and its actually bottleneck their flow.. Just saying.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Yes I know it!, Know it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as Corsair's Hydro is an example, Many still complaint about their high temp, on and on. All C-Hydro's 1/4 narrow tubing, and its actually bottleneck their flow.. Just saying.


More likely a crap pump coupled with a skinny rad and junk stock fans...


----------



## 3lka

@ Karlitos: Thx


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> @ Bundy?
> What is that, a CPU Block internal? Looks...different?


Yeah, an old block from 2001/2002 i guess...without the top. it´s so old...i don´t even remember the brand of this little buddy


----------



## bob808

Hi guys-
Still a work in progress, but I though I would get some picturs in here.

Cosmos II with window


























ex360 up top (inside case) topped by some old school orange xiggys-









custom bent 1/2" od copper tubing. I had to thin down the ends to make them fit in the fittings..









Resevoir/d5 pump combo. Check the OCN logo!









Onyx floor lit with red and white led strips from modelersbrand.com (nice leds!)









mmmm copper pipes


















along with the ex360 up top, I am using two ex280 rads in the lower compartment.
It's a nice tight fit compared to 240mm rads.


















nzxt mix fan controller works great. Using 3 channels for the fans, and using the other 3 to control the lights. I've got the bottom 4 cougar 140mm fans on channel 1, the 2 front fans on channel 2, and the top 3 rad fans on the third channel.









another view through the side window-









piping without the floor-









piping under the onyx floor-










please leave any suggestions, questions or comments.


----------



## audioholic

I just recieved an Eheim pump from a buddy of mine. Only thing is I do not know how to wire it up. It has the big cable out of the back that would normally be plugged into the wall. Can I take the 3 wires and solder them into a SAA cable for power ground etc? I also have an Innovatek reservoir that he gave me. I have never done water cooling and want to make sure I do things right. Thanks for the hep guys!


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Hi guys-
> Still a work in progress, but I though I would get some picturs in here.
> Cosmos II with window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ex360 up top (inside case) topped by some old school orange xiggys-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> custom bent 1/2" od copper tubing. I had to thin down the ends to make them fit in the fittings..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resevoir/d5 pump combo. Check the OCN logo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Onyx floor lit with red and white led strips from modelersbrand.com (nice leds!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mmmm copper pipes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> along with the ex360 up top, I am using two ex280 rads in the lower compartment.
> It's a nice tight fit compared to 240mm rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nzxt mix fan controller works great. Using 3 channels for the fans, and using the other 3 to control the lights. I've got the bottom 4 cougar 140mm fans on channel 1, the 2 front fans on channel 2, and the top 3 rad fans on the third channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> another view through the side window-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> piping without the floor-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> piping under the onyx floor-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please leave any suggestions, questions or comments.


----------



## solidshark91493

That ^ Good lord D:


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I just recieved an Eheim pump from a buddy of mine. Only thing is I do not know how to wire it up. It has the big cable out of the back that would normally be plugged into the wall. Can I take the 3 wires and solder them into a SAA cable for power ground etc? I also have an Innovatek reservoir that he gave me. I have never done water cooling and want to make sure I do things right. Thanks for the hep guys!


Im going to assume that when you say 'SAA cable', you mean sata cable. I would say to definately not do this (using sata cable to power your pump). If it comes with a wall plug, that says to me that it is going to draw a significant amount of power. I could be wrong, but if you supply the model number or some of the electrical info that should be printed out on a sticker, I would know better.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Hi guys-
> Still a work in progress, but I though I would get some picturs in here.
> Cosmos II with window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ex360 up top (inside case) topped by some old school orange xiggys-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> custom bent 1/2" od copper tubing. I had to thin down the ends to make them fit in the fittings..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resevoir/d5 pump combo. Check the OCN logo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Onyx floor lit with red and white led strips from modelersbrand.com (nice leds!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mmmm copper pipes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> along with the ex360 up top, I am using two ex280 rads in the lower compartment.
> It's a nice tight fit compared to 240mm rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nzxt mix fan controller works great. Using 3 channels for the fans, and using the other 3 to control the lights. I've got the bottom 4 cougar 140mm fans on channel 1, the 2 front fans on channel 2, and the top 3 rad fans on the third channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> another view through the side window-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> piping without the floor-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> piping under the onyx floor-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please leave any suggestions, questions or comments.


just 1







ternd out awsome man love it watched the hole way
















my new case epic thermal tower


----------



## lowfat

His rig does look awesome. But please please do not quote his post.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is no advantage to fat tubing,this is correct..it all has to stepdown to the bore size of the fitting,thus creating the flow restriction
> I'm not sure what you are getting at,the post you quoted is in answer to that same question.


My bad I though you were referring to tubing bore size, but you meant fitting bore size correct?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> His rig does look awesome. But please please do not quote his post.


Yeah that's what I was going to say, LOL!


----------



## DaClownie

Been a quite a few of these solid pipe WC rigs popping up lately... ton of work but man do they look awesome. Nice work on the copper tube


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> My bad I though you were referring to tubing bore size, but you meant fitting bore size correct?


Exactly!


----------



## Tennobanzai

Did you connect a T-line to the bitspower mini plug? Mahalo







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> remove it......?
> Because it makes the motherboard hotter and has less to show off really. I prefer the non-armoured look myself anyway. The plastic covering just looks cheap.


agreed also my mate had trouble connecting his second GPU because of the plastic shroud, he had to grind it down.


----------



## mr. biggums

670 released, now the wait for some wc blocks to release.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> Did you connect a T-line to the bitspower mini plug? Mahalo


It's a drain Valve. Genious Idea with the valve.

Remove plug, screw a barb with tubing then open up the valve to drain the loop through the tubing into a bucket.


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys-
> Still a work in progress, but I though I would get some picturs in here.
> Cosmos II with window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ex360 up top (inside case) topped by some old school orange xiggys-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> custom bent 1/2" od copper tubing. I had to thin down the ends to make them fit in the fittings..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resevoir/d5 pump combo. Check the OCN logo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Onyx floor lit with red and white led strips from modelersbrand.com (nice leds!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mmmm copper pipes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> along with the ex360 up top, I am using two ex280 rads in the lower compartment.
> It's a nice tight fit compared to 240mm rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nzxt mix fan controller works great. Using 3 channels for the fans, and using the other 3 to control the lights. I've got the bottom 4 cougar 140mm fans on channel 1, the 2 front fans on channel 2, and the top 3 rad fans on the third channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> another view through the side window-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> piping without the floor-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> piping under the onyx floor-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please leave any suggestions, questions or comments.


That sir, is a piece of art. +1 rep. do you have a build log for it?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Dear God, learn how to use spoiler tags...


----------



## Aventadoor

A pic with 480 rads installed!


----------



## jellis142

Such a huge case... such a tiny motherboard







It looks so lonely.


----------



## kamikaze_

Even EVGA SR-2/X boards will look tiny in that case.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Hi guys-
> Still a work in progress, but I though I would get some picturs in here.
> Cosmos II with window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ex360 up top (inside case) topped by some old school orange xiggys-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> custom bent 1/2" od copper tubing. I had to thin down the ends to make them fit in the fittings..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resevoir/d5 pump combo. Check the OCN logo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Onyx floor lit with red and white led strips from modelersbrand.com (nice leds!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mmmm copper pipes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> along with the ex360 up top, I am using two ex280 rads in the lower compartment.
> It's a nice tight fit compared to 240mm rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nzxt mix fan controller works great. Using 3 channels for the fans, and using the other 3 to control the lights. I've got the bottom 4 cougar 140mm fans on channel 1, the 2 front fans on channel 2, and the top 3 rad fans on the third channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> another view through the side window-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> piping without the floor-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> piping under the onyx floor-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please leave any suggestions, questions or comments.


fantastic work!!! ive been wanting to do this forever lol - what fittings did you use for this? Was the bending of the copper a pain or fairly straight forward?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> After playing with some 1/4 tubing I can say that the flow seemed quite slowww
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I know it!, Know it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as Corsair's Hydro is an example, Some still complaint about their high temp, on and on. All C-Hydro's 1/4 narrow tubing, and its actually bottleneck their flow.. Just saying.
Click to expand...

The bottleneck isn't the size of the tubing it's the ribs creating eddies in the flow. Look at a river that has a lot of dead wood along it's banks. You can actually SEE pools of stagnate water. Which is inviting for fish, still gets flow but they don't have to work against the current as much as a River without this deadwood obstructions. Well that's what those ribs do. Is they fill and stagnate coolant creating a bottleneck fighting the current. Just sayin.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> @ Bundy?
> What is that, a CPU Block internal? Looks...different?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, an old block from 2001/2002 i guess...without the top. it´s so old...i don´t even remember the brand of this little buddy
Click to expand...

Pretty sure just by looking at the design that would be a BitsPower item. But you being a BP reviewer should know better than I. It certainly looks like a logo piece for BP anyway.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Dear God, learn how to use spoiler tags...


Can I quote the post too? bob808 deserves another quotation without spoiler tag I think.









I think that's my next project though. Got the bulk of my loop sorted out an they got Copper tubing at the local Homies across tha river.









Hey bob, what do you gain tempwise from having copper pipe instead of standard tubing do ya think? Pretty sure the benefit outweighs the cost involved.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> A pic with 480 rads installed!


That's just awesome. Love that Case. This one don't get a ST sorry peeps.









~Ceadder


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insertacoolname*
> 
> That sir, is a piece of art. +1 rep. do you have a build log for it?


Thanks for the rep! Yes, there is a pretty extensive build log. Google 'mkg cosmos'
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> fantastic work!!! ive been wanting to do this forever lol - what fittings did you use for this? Was the bending of the copper a pain or fairly straight forward?


I used bitspower sli multilink fittings for the copper. I got them for $3.50 a piece from sidewinder computers for the shiny silvers, now they cost $5.00... supply and demand at its finest I suppose lol. The black sparkle and mat black ones are currently $4.00

The bending was a bit of trial and error. I had to get a 20' length of tube, and I probably used less than 5' in the build, and I almost ran out haha. Also I had to buy a bender, which ran me $35 for a used one from ebay. The ones they sell at lowes and home depot are not big enough for 1/2" tubing, but are for 3/8. The biggest hurdle for me is that the fittings are designed for 12mm OD tubing which is less than 1/2". I couldn't find it anywhere, so I bought the 1/2" and sanded the ends thinner until they fit. Time-sink for sure.

Thanks for the kind words guys!


----------



## wermad

has anyone used two Heatkiller dual link bridges for a quad setup?


----------



## Onions

updated a bunch more


----------



## asakurahao

Here is my STH10, I hope you guys like it. sorry for a bad image quality


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> Here is my STH10, I hope you guys like it. sorry for a bad image quality
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


STH10 is super smexy







Wish i could afford one









Which rads are you running?


----------



## derickwm

More pics of STH10 kthxbai.


----------



## KaRLiToS

How much is that case? Makes me want to buy.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> How much is that case? Makes me want to buy.


Starts at $550 usd


----------



## asakurahao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> STH10 is super smexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish i could afford one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which rads are you running?


I am using Black Ice® GTX 480


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Starts at $550 usd


Oh, I guess I will stick with my 2 years old Obsidian 800D. We had great time together anyway and I want to mod the Side Window with bigger plexi and mesh Guard.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Oh, I guess I will stick with my 2 years old Obsidian 800D. We had great time together anyway and I want to mod the Side Window with bigger plexi and mesh Guard.


buy an epicpccase thermal tower case man its hip high well the one i just got is












dont ask the price









and thay are not all clear my one is the only one that is u get to choose colore rad mount size everything


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Dear God, learn how to use spoiler tags...


Seriously man don't quote pictures, instead use spoiler tags. If you don't know how please ask anyone and we will tell you how.


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> Did you connect a T-line to the bitspower mini plug? Mahalo


I ran a pipe under the psu and put in a drain plug on the floor near the back of the rig for easy draining. Unscrew the plug, screw on a fitting with a length of hose, open the shutoff valve to drain. Works a treat!

under psu









bottom back of case









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can I quote the post too? bob808 deserves another quotation without spoiler tag I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that's my next project though. Got the bulk of my loop sorted out an they got Copper tubing at the local Homies across tha river.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey bob, what do you gain tempwise from having copper pipe instead of standard tubing do ya think? Pretty sure the benefit outweighs the cost involved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's just awesome. Love that Case. This one don't get a ST sorry peeps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks Ceadder! I'm sure it probably shaves off a couple degrees using copper pipe instead if tubing. The tubing wasn't that expensive, it was like $35 for a straight 20' length. I couldn't find it at home desparate or lowes. They had like 2' lengths for some outrageous price, and they also has rolls of it (coiled in a box) but I wanted strait pipe to start out with. I went to Fergusons, a plumbing supply store and they had it for me the next day, brought in from their Seattle wharehouse.

I couldn't find the 12mm outer diameter pipe ANYWHERE. Do let me know if you find any 12mm as I would probably want to pick some up.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Heres an Update on my rig. Had some issues i needed to work out regarding the psu and some of the wiring. Got a New Camera so im sharing the nice clean looking pics with you all.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Oh, I guess I will stick with my 2 years old Obsidian 800D. We had great time together anyway and I want to mod the Side Window with bigger plexi and mesh Guard.


Yeah, the 800d is just the right size for me. These other cases are getting just a bit too big!


----------



## derickwm

I've been transfixed with the DD29 forever but man I have to say, after seeing those STH10 pictures I am intrigued.


----------



## Mr Frosty

Guys need a fan controller that can handle 12 fans, prefer it to control all 12 at once instead of separately, any suggestions?


----------



## derickwm

Depends what fans you're using but for all future/power intensive purposes go with an FC9. Get some 1->3 adapters. That'd be one of the best options you could get, looks great too









Unless you get some really low speed fans, I'm not sure of a fan controller that could handle all 12 from one channel.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


WOW!!!.
That is nice as heck!!!!
I like it... made that case right!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> I ran a pipe under the psu and put in a drain plug on the floor near the back of the rig for easy draining. Unscrew the plug, screw on a fitting with a length of hose, open the shutoff valve to drain. Works a treat!
> under psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bottom back of case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Ceadder! I'm sure it probably shaves off a couple degrees using copper pipe instead if tubing. The tubing wasn't that expensive, it was like $35 for a straight 20' length. I couldn't find it at home desparate or lowes. They had like 2' lengths for some outrageous price, and they also has rolls of it (coiled in a box) but I wanted strait pipe to start out with. I went to Fergusons, a plumbing supply store and they had it for me the next day, brought in from their Seattle wharehouse.
> I couldn't find the 12mm outer diameter pipe ANYWHERE. Do let me know if you find any 12mm as I would probably want to pick some up.


We get 12mm off the shelf here,im using 10mm on my SR-2...chrome plated from stock.


MasterMcarr something or another in the US have 12mm half-hard lengths in stock


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Guys need a fan controller that can handle 12 fans, prefer it to control all 12 at once instead of separately, any suggestions?


Based on responses in this thread and my own downfalls I have possibly narrowed fan controllers to these three not sure which id prefer but figured I would share

http://www.xoxide.com/nzxt-sentrymix-fancontroller.html
http://www.svc.com/fan-atic-bk.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30058

there are many other options but seems these have been recommended and seem solid


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Dear God, learn how to use spoiler tags...


I do apologize good sir, it should be put right.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Guys need a fan controller that can handle 12 fans, prefer it to control all 12 at once instead of separately, any suggestions?


My Lamptron FC-8 As 8 knobs, and I have 23 Fans connected to it.


----------



## phillyd

my pump from dwood didnt work, even after many rewiring attempts.
threw my old rasa pump/res in the loop so it is usable
sucks to have the build set back a week


----------



## Alatar

so....

Anyone else ever gotten Phobya branded gummy bears?


----------



## Krahe

They are not gummy bears, that is the new Phobya vibration damping kit for your rad!


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> They are not gummy bears, that is the new Phobya vibration damping kit for your rad!


Never thought of that









Gotta try!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> so....
> Anyone else ever gotten Phobya branded gummy bears?


Yeah. I got that with my Aquatuning order.

I was like: "Here you go sis, you can have them. You're not the one with the stomach issues."


----------



## sate200




----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> I ran a pipe under the psu and put in a drain plug on the floor near the back of the rig for easy draining. Unscrew the plug, screw on a fitting with a length of hose, open the shutoff valve to drain. Works a treat!
> under psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bottom back of case


Thanks! I will be using this idea. I might just hook up a drain line from my res though.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yep, im jealous


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> so....
> 
> Anyone else ever gotten Phobya branded gummy bears?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> They are not gummy bears, that is the new Phobya vibration damping kit for your rad!


Those are probably rebranded Black Forrest brand diffusers. 100% Green Rated. Not harmful to the environment.









~Ceadder


----------



## zoson

Never got Phobya brand, but I did get aquatuning brand:


----------



## Alatar

yeah mine were also from aquatuning, came with my replacement pump


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice GPU pots.









~Ceadder


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> yeah mine were also from aquatuning, came with my replacement pump
> *snip*


True story, Aquatuning is copying me.
I've been giving candy to people whenever they buy something from me on forums for over 2 years:
http://www.heatware.com/eval.php?id=6724&eval=606412&show=to
Quote:


> Rating: Positive
> Type: Kettchxxii bought item from Zoson
> Description: Bought i7 950 retail processor
> Comments: Packaged great, gave me candy. Would love to buy from again!


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't know if I'll be able to do it but I thought I would post this pic here and ask those who are under water...










Think I can put these 6870 Cards(x2) under water? Looks like the one that EK is showing for example but...

If I can't do full blocks with them, I'm not doing universals either cause the VRM are in such a dodgy place. Linus at Techtips wasn't kiddin when he said these were not water cooling friendly cards.









~Ceadder


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't know if I'll be able to do it but I thought I would post this pic here and ask those who are under water...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I can put these 6870 Cards(x2) under water? Looks like the one that EK is showing for example but...
> If I can't do full blocks with them, I'm not doing universals either cause the VRM are in such a dodgy place. Linus at Techtips wasn't kiddin when he said these were not water cooling friendly cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You watch linus tech tips? :O
Me too.. >.>
Kinda why im on this site with my build project anyway..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## superericla

This might be compatible.

Edit: Or this one.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> True story, Aquatuning is copying me.
> I've been giving candy to people whenever they buy something from me on forums for over 2 years:
> http://www.heatware.com/eval.php?id=6724&eval=606412&show=to


i grew out my mustache recently so that i can hand out candy to kids out of my minivan


----------



## phillyd

got the rest of my WCing goods







check the build log and sub/leave feedback please! (in the sig)


----------



## rotary7

sorry for the crappy pics but you get the idea, this was built my me with a little inspired from the DJ Deadmou5


----------



## phillyd

**Deadmau5


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> sorry for the crappy pics but you get the idea, this was built my me with a little inspired from the DJ Deadmou5


woaaa thats cool lookin. whats going on with the res? it looks like its foamy or something, is inside of it its neat.


----------



## Ceadderman

Res isn't all the way full and it's probably a bit of humidity fogging the inside somewhat.









~Ceadder


----------



## rotary7

Its bubbles on top that i made to do that, but i just changed that res to a FrozenQ PC Mods 250mm, i think they both look good but the helix is awesome
the old res did have humidity


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> This might be compatible.
> 
> Edit: Or this one.


That DD one looks intriguing more interested in the EK Acetal block but the DD one is Copper an no shinies on the cover.









Funny thing is I looked at it and it says ALL 6870 and then...

" Not compatible with :

ASUS Radeon 6870 DirectCU
MSI Radeon HD 6870 HAWK 1 GB
Sapphire HD6870 Vapor-X
Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 TOXIC
Sapphire 100314-3L HD6890 1GB"

So if you had a Vapor-X or any of the listed cards you could be screwed if you don't look at the specifications.









Good thing I don't have Toxic or Vapor-X









Still thanks for pointing those out. Someone already pointed out the HKiller block, but while I can paint the top, I'd rather not with a new block under warranty. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it if I did bust the warranty just don't feel like playing with this kind of investment.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That DD one looks intriguing more interested in the EK Acetal block but the DD one is Copper an no shinies on the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny thing is I looked at it and it says ALL 6870 and then...
> " Not compatible with :
> ASUS Radeon 6870 DirectCU
> MSI Radeon HD 6870 HAWK 1 GB
> Sapphire HD6870 Vapor-X
> Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 TOXIC
> Sapphire 100314-3L HD6890 1GB"
> So if you had a Vapor-X or any of the listed cards you could be screwed if you don't look at the specifications.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing I don't have Toxic or Vapor-X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still thanks for pointing those out. Someone already pointed out the HKiller block, but while I can paint the top, I'd rather not with a new block under warranty. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it if I did bust the warranty just don't feel like playing with this kind of investment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dude! You ditched the 5770s?!?!?!??!?!?!?









Go for the HK, slap a bridge on them, and don't paint since they are finely crafted and no need to mess with them


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> a *crap pump* and *junk stock fans*...


Yes true, OFC those are..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The bottleneck isn't the size of the tubing it's the ribs creating eddies in the flow. *Look at a river that has a lot of dead wood along it's banks. You can actually SEE pools of stagnate water. Which is inviting for fish, still gets flow but they don't have to work against the current as much as a River without this deadwood obstructions.* Well that's what those ribs do. Is they fill and stagnate coolant creating a bottleneck fighting the current. Just sayin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Definitely Yes I understand your logical.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That DD one looks intriguing more interested in the EK Acetal block but the DD one is Copper an no shinies on the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny thing is I looked at it and it says ALL 6870 and then...
> " Not compatible with :
> ASUS Radeon 6870 DirectCU
> MSI Radeon HD 6870 HAWK 1 GB
> Sapphire HD6870 Vapor-X
> Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 TOXIC
> Sapphire 100314-3L HD6890 1GB"
> So if you had a Vapor-X or any of the listed cards you could be screwed if you don't look at the specifications.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing I don't have Toxic or Vapor-X
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Still thanks for pointing those out. Someone already pointed out the HKiller block, but while I can paint the top, I'd rather not with a new block under warranty. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it if I did bust the warranty just don't feel like playing with this kind of investment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
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> 
> Dude! You ditched the 5770s?!?!?!??!?!?!?
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Go for the HK, slap a bridge on them, and don't paint since they are finely crafted and no need to mess with them
Click to expand...

Yeah nope still have the 5770s', they're both in my bros system now. OMF'nLord they be fast. They outscore one 6870 in Heaven 2.5 on max settings in 1920x1080p.









But yeah since I got these cards for doin some work for a guy who knows a guy who knows the guy...







... I went with the better cards. Just have one apart for the time being(VRM tape broke taking it off the pcb) I'm only running one and will be getting an EK backplate to double check fitment. If the backplate fits properly with no hangups, I'm pretty sure that their block will fit too.









An with no shiny bits in my system besides FC block I really am not looking to add any if I can absolutely hep it.









Would love to get a pair of EK blocks and send them into to Eddy and have him replace the Nickel block with bare Copper blocks. Don't understand why they never offered the Copper to begin with. Copper is the substrate for all their Nickel blocks after all. It's not like he's having to go out of his way to make 2 types of blocks. Maybe in the polishing but not in the finished product prior to nickel processing.









Still if I have to live with the nickel I can do so. Just rather have Black Acetal tops which fit my build perfectly.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Hi guys-
> Still a work in progress, but I though I would get some picturs in here.
> Cosmos II with window
> 
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> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
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> 
> ex360 up top (inside case) topped by some old school orange xiggys-
> 
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> 
> custom bent 1/2" od copper tubing. I had to thin down the ends to make them fit in the fittings..
> 
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> 
> Resevoir/d5 pump combo. Check the OCN logo!
> 
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> Onyx floor lit with red and white led strips from modelersbrand.com (nice leds!)
> 
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> mmmm copper pipes
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> along with the ex360 up top, I am using two ex280 rads in the lower compartment.
> It's a nice tight fit compared to 240mm rads.
> 
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> 
> nzxt mix fan controller works great. Using 3 channels for the fans, and using the other 3 to control the lights. I've got the bottom 4 cougar 140mm fans on channel 1, the 2 front fans on channel 2, and the top 3 rad fans on the third channel.
> 
> 
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> another view through the side window-
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> piping without the floor-
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> piping under the onyx floor-
> 
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> 
> please leave any suggestions, questions or comments.


MOTM winner here imho. You get my vote mate


----------



## phillyd

did anybody like what i did with the fittings?








http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/20850_50#post_17216423


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> did anybody like what i did with the fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/20850_50#post_17216423


Sorry phillyd, but as much as I like the look of them sans tubing, I'm not quite sure that works because the barb is going to be hidden and same for the inner flange. Looks cool but I'm not sure how realiztic it will be til it's been done.









~Ceadder


----------



## kamikaze_




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah nope still have the 5770s', they're both in my bros system now. OMF'nLord they be fast. They outscore one 6870 in Heaven 2.5 on max settings in 1920x1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah since I got these cards for doin some work for a guy who knows a guy who knows the guy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I went with the better cards. Just have one apart for the time being(VRM tape broke taking it off the pcb) I'm only running one and will be getting an EK backplate to double check fitment. If the backplate fits properly with no hangups, I'm pretty sure that their block will fit too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An with no shiny bits in my system besides FC block I really am not looking to add any if I can absolutely hep it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to get a pair of EK blocks and send them into to Eddy and have him replace the Nickel block with bare Copper blocks. Don't understand why they never offered the Copper to begin with. Copper is the substrate for all their Nickel blocks after all. It's not like he's having to go out of his way to make 2 types of blocks. Maybe in the polishing but not in the finished product prior to nickel processing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still if I have to live with the nickel I can do so. Just rather have Black Acetal tops which fit my build perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I hear yah







. I'm not looking for my new gpu setup to beat my old setup in benchmarks, i just needed more vrammmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm







. I'm flat broke, again







, and I'm waiting on the new gpu(s) to arrive and new case, so down the road when I get a chunky paycheck, going to buy four of these guys to finish the HK setup:


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sorry phillyd, but as much as I like the look of them sans tubing, I'm not quite sure that works because the barb is going to be hidden and same for the inner flange. Looks cool but I'm not sure how realiztic it will be til it's been done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


its a minor detail but it can be seen through the holes in the outer part of the barbs and the tubing will be clear.

I mixed my Mayhem's Deep Blue and Ice White today, and it looks fantastic with the white cold cathodes. I cannot wait to get all this stuff modded reinstalled. The cathodes should provide light to keep the colors of the parts true to their look, and the blue LEDs and fans will provide local coloring without flooding the colors.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> its a minor detail but it can be seen through the holes in the outer part of the barbs and the tubing will be clear.
> I mixed my Mayhem's Deep Blue and Ice White today, and it looks fantastic with the white cold cathodes. I cannot wait to get all this stuff modded reinstalled. The cathodes should provide light to keep the colors of the parts true to their look, and the blue LEDs and fans will provide local coloring without flooding the colors.


It's good to hear you got the Mayhem's all dyed and working out. The test sample I made still hasn't separated or discolored at all and none of the coolant in my build has faded even the slightest bit. It should look very nice with the LEDs.


----------



## ROG1

hii


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## AMC

What is the best clear tubing to get now? I may want to go with Mayhems die.


----------



## Krahe

Tygon seems to be the best clear tubing atm, at least that was the consensus last time I checked.

You got me thinking, I know Mayhems do extensiving testing, I wonder if they have done tests with different brand tubing and if they recommend a certain type?
Hopefully the rep will stumble upon this and reply.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Tygon seems to be the best clear tubing atm, at least that was the concesus last time I checked.


Only certain Tygon types. Tygon "Beverage" seems to do pretty well, but not 3603 if I remember right.

Lots of tubing info in my sig link


----------



## AMC

Thanks guys. I just dont want to have the plasticity issue, or whatever its called.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> Thanks guys. I just dont want to have the plasticity issue, or whatever its called.


I've yet to find a clear tubing that doesn't cloud. That includes so called 'plasticizer free' Tygon tubing.


----------



## Marcusk

Spoiler: Quote: Ceadderman



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't know if I'll be able to do it but I thought I would post this pic here and ask those who are under water...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I can put these 6870 Cards(x2) under water? Looks like the one that EK is showing for example but...
> If I can't do full blocks with them, I'm not doing universals either cause the VRM are in such a dodgy place. Linus at Techtips wasn't kiddin when he said these were not water cooling friendly cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder






That is a reference design 6870 PCB, it looks identical to my XFX 6870 on which i use a EK-FC6870 Acetal block. It is also listed on EKs Coolingconfigurator website, under "21179-00-40R".


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Tygon seems to be the best clear tubing atm, at least that was the consensus last time I checked.
> You got me thinking, I know Mayhems do extensiving testing, I wonder if they have done tests with different brand tubing and if they recommend a certain type?
> Hopefully the rep will stumble upon this and reply.


Mayhem is a fan of the cheap and cheerful mastercleer.


----------



## nabarun

my tj11




























sorry for the crappy quality if anyone wants i'll take some better pictures tomorrow


----------



## Alatar

Trying to start installing my mobo loop but apparently I had some water in the socket so I need to dry that first


----------



## MRHANDS

I just installed a waterblock on my top card and did "the mod" with an antec 620 on my bottom card. So far the results are surprising.

At idle the temps are 19c for the antec, 30c for the ek block. Load is 34c with the antec, 45c for the waterblock. I kind of figured it would have been the other way around.


----------



## bundymania

*VIDEO:*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSt6qaUu5Ls&list=LLp7P0BCCtqlkmMcJFNddHeQ&feature=mh_lolz


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> *Son, do you know how fast that Processor was going?*


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
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> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, thats sexy.. These getting me to interest in.


----------



## skitzab1

done







just let it leak test for the night
















i Call this the PAPERBACK>>>>TO BACK

as i did not stop till finished done in one day









my neck is sore and i need a shower and sleep









get ready for wonka


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


The speed is just too damn high!

Oh wait was this about that warranty? Chip was stock, what is this overclocking that you speak of?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MRHANDS*
> 
> I just installed a waterblock on my top card and did "the mod" with an antec 620 on my bottom card. So far the results are surprising.
> At idle the temps are 19c for the antec, 30c for the ek block. Load is 34c with the antec, 45c for the waterblock. I kind of figured it would have been the other way around.


Um...what are your ambient temps? 19c would need a pretty damn "cold" room, even at idle unless you have a busted temp sensor.


----------



## MRHANDS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Um...what are your ambient temps? 19c would need a pretty damn "cold" room, even at idle unless you have a busted temp sensor.


Cold morning, was probably about 15 c in here. After running the computer and folding a bit, idles are now 26c/36c. Funny, when they both ran stock air, they had a 10c temp difference too


----------



## Angrybutcher

[snip] wrong thread lol


----------



## RushMore1205

shes almost done, what do you guys think so far, sorry for crappy cell phone pictures, when i get home ill take pics with the good camera

there is still a ton of lighting to be put in but its fully operational now, im thinking of adding SSD into this build, but the system has beein performing super great even with the core2quad, which i was really suprised, i went with core 2 series because i love the mobo that is in this build and ithink it was perfect color scheme for thie build


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> shes almost done, what do you guys think so far, sorry for crappy cell phone pictures, when i get home ill take pics with the good camera
> there is still a ton of lighting to be put in but its fully operational now, im thinking of adding SSD into this build, but the system has beein performing super great even with the core2quad, which i was really suprised, i went with core 2 series because i love the mobo that is in this build and ithink it was perfect color scheme for thie build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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so much green, so much win


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Quote: Ceadderman
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't know if I'll be able to do it but I thought I would post this pic here and ask those who are under water...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I can put these 6870 Cards(x2) under water? Looks like the one that EK is showing for example but...
> If I can't do full blocks with them, I'm not doing universals either cause the VRM are in such a dodgy place. Linus at Techtips wasn't kiddin when he said these were not water cooling friendly cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a reference design 6870 PCB, it looks identical to my XFX 6870 on which i use a EK-FC6870 Acetal block. It is also listed on EKs Coolingconfigurator website, under "21179-00-40R".
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'm aware of the number, but the number on my PCB is 109-C22237-00. The SKU# number on the Cooler however is 21179-00

So I think Sapphire dropped a Reference cooler onto my cards.










I figure the only way to find out is to get a Reference backplate and try to match it up with the card that is intact. If it works then the block should work. If not, I didn't spend a ton of money an can at least recoup more than 80% of what I paid for the plate by offering it here in marketplace. Would like to get it all at once but I think this is one time where it's okay to take my time and make sure to get it right.









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Not as good looking as most of the guys posting above, but here's my WC Loop setup, I am a first timer doing water!





















I also have a *Lamptron FC3* and some Biocide/Anticorrosive on the way, courtesy of *Eggy88*, huge thanks for that.









Edit:

I then noticed (Thanks to my BF3 clan mate) that I had the tubing installed wrong in the CPU waterblock so I swapped around the tubes to use the proper inlet/outlet.













The fan controllers do not take much space inside the bays so there's space enough for both the fan controllers and the pump .









Ghetto mode to remove all pump vibration.











Hope you like it, not the best but I am very proud of it being first timer doing this.


----------



## Keru

New pictures

















Greetings


----------



## Fuganater

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keru*
> 
> New pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings






Can you show behind the mobo please?


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keru*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> New pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings


Really nice! I saw your build featured on LD's facebook wall if I remember correctly


----------



## Keru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Can you show behind the mobo please?




Sorry about the picture, I have nothing.

Greetings.


----------



## DaClownie

Keru: That's perfect. If he's like me, he was just curious where the pipes went from there. Makes for a nice clean look. Nice thinking


----------



## jackofhearts495

Keru, that's a great build! So clean! I'm a huge sucker for well-done LD builds.

@kcuestag: Looking good! And don't compare yourself to the other builds around here... I forced myself not to awhile ago after Venom, Cerberus, etc.









Why the slim tubing, though? It looks so tiny in such a big build.


----------



## Keru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Really nice! I saw your build featured on LD's facebook wall if I remember correctly


Yes it's true. There are more photos on Facebook LDcooling









I decided to share some photos with you.

Greetings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Keru: That's perfect. If he's like me, he was just curious where the pipes went from there. Makes for a nice clean look. Nice thinking


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Keru, that's a great build! So clean! I'm a huge sucker for well-done LD builds.


Thank you very much.


----------



## covert ash

Hehe... maybe this would grab your attention.









I need some opinions from you guys about painting my "new" radiator. Let me preface this with a little background though.

Originally, I bought a used XSPC RX480 used off another forum. For $80 and seeing that the one picture the seller had of the backside looked very clean, I thought it was a pretty good deal. Once I got the radiator in hand though, it was a completely different story!









The front side (same side as the ports), which was not shown in the pic, was *F-I-L-T-H-Y* - full of clumpy dust/dirt and some sort of grime! I wish I had taken pictures to show how I am not exaggerating that it looked like it was used in a basement. But to make matters worse, it *STUNK* like gym socks!!!







Combine this with the amount of scratches that were not shown in that seller's pic, was enough to make me feel like I should have spent the extra ~$30 and got a new one instead.









I got right to work and washed the radiator with detergent as thoroughly as I could so the funk and most of the dirt/dust is already gone. To remedy the horrid paint job, I decided to sand the radiator down and repaint it a glossy white.

Here is where things got interesting after about an hour of sanding!











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









I quite like the look of the paint-less radiator!







It reminds me a lot of the Watercool or Airplex rads from the brushed steel. Obviously not as nice, but not bad either for a fraction of the price.









So what do you guys think? Here's what I'm thinking are my options:

*1.* Leave the rad unpainted but continue sanding to get rid of the remaining paint.
*2.* Paint just the brass chambers, at the top and bottom.
*3.* Carry on with the original plan to paint the whole thing white.

Let me know!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Wow that looks stunning sanded down to bare metal... I might have to steal that idea for my next build. Can we get a pic of your build to get an idea of the design/theme?

*EDIT:* How'd you sand it, by the way?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe... maybe this would grab your attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need some opinions from you guys about painting my "new" radiator. Let me preface this with a little background though.
> 
> Originally, I bought a used XSPC RX480 used off another forum. For $80 and seeing that the one picture the seller had of the backside looked very clean, I thought it was a pretty good deal. Once I got the radiator in hand though, it was a completely different story!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front side (same side as the ports), which was not shown in the pic, was *F-I-L-T-H-Y* - full of clumpy dust/dirt and some sort of grime! I wish I had taken pictures to show how I am not exaggerating that it looked like it was used in a basement. But to make matters worse, it *STUNK* like gym socks!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Combine this with the amount of scratches that were not shown in that seller's pic, was enough to make me feel like I should have spent the extra ~$30 and got a new one instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got right to work and washed the radiator with detergent as thoroughly as I could so the funk and most of the dirt/dust is already gone. To remedy the horrid paint job, I decided to sand the radiator down and repaint it a glossy white.
> 
> Here is where things got interesting after about an hour of sanding!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I quite like the look of the paint-less radiator!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It reminds me a lot of the Watercool or Airplex rads from the brushed steel. Obviously not as nice, but not bad either for a fraction of the price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you guys think? Here's what I'm thinking are my options:
> 
> *1.* Leave the rad unpainted but continue sanding to get rid of the remaining paint.
> *2.* Paint just the brass chambers, at the top and bottom.
> *3.* Carry on with the original plan to paint the whole thing white.
> 
> Let me know!


I think I vote for option 2... that stainless is sexy (as long as it matches a build you're working on). If not, an all white would look sharp as well


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Wow that looks stunning sanded down to bare metal... I might have to steal that idea for my next build. Can we get a pic of your build to get an idea of the design/theme?
> *EDIT:* How'd you sand it, by the way?


Here are some quick pics of the current state.




Not my proudest moment to put blue Mayhem dye in, but I couldn't stand the clouded clear tubing look and couldn't wait for my red dye to come in.







That will be fixed at a later date when I drain it and add the XSPC rad and VRM block for the Rampage IV Formula.









I would like to go for an ROG type of theme (I know, not another one, lol







). Since I am using silver metal fittings, I think the stainless steal rad will go nicely together, which means I will most likely be sanding down the Swiftech 360 rad up top as well.

By the way, this XSPC 480 rad will be mounted externally. I know most don't prefer it, but I cannot mod the bottom hard drive chamber since I actually do use it as I have 6 drives in total not counting the SSD.









As for sanding, I bought some wet/dry sand paper from Wal-Mart. They sell a pack of 220, 320 and 400 grit for $3 and change. Since they were big sheets, I cut them up into fours and used all of the 220 grit to remove the major areas. I only used a few sheets of 320 to get some refining in, and haven't touched the 400, and 800 grit that I bought separately.

I still have a long way to go as you can see the chambers need a lot of work. I can say right now, though, that the area around the ports will be a major pain, but I'll have to take my time and take some breaks in between to alleviate the finger cramping.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I think I vote for option 2... that stainless is sexy (as long as it matches a build you're working on). If not, an all white would look sharp as well


Thanks!









I am leaning towards option 2 as well, but then the question becomes do I paint the brass chambers white, or back to black, or some other random color like red? The possibilities are endless!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Externally, you say? Hmmm... I think if you sanded everything well (not the fins, of course -- leave them black), a stain-less steel 480 would look absolutely boss for your system.

Worst case, it doesn't look good and you just paint it after sanding it.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Externally, you say? Hmmm... I think if you sanded everything well (not the fins, of course -- leave them black), a stain-less steel 480 would look absolutely boss for your system.
> Worst case, it doesn't look good and you just paint it after sanding it.


Very true. I will have to get to work on sanding down the rest of this rad then.









I don't even know if such a thing exists, but does anyone know if is there anything like a sanding "pencil" that will allow me to sand hard to reach areas like the ports?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Very true. I will have to get to work on sanding down the rest of this rad then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't even know if such a thing exists, but does anyone know if is there anything like a sanding "pencil" that will allow me to sand hard to reach areas like the ports?


For stuff like that, I usually get a very dull pencil and duct-tape sand paper to the tip. This can be done with any pointy object, of course.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Not as good looking as most of the guys posting above, but here's my WC Loop setup, I am a first timer doing water!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have a *Lamptron FC3* and some Biocide/Anticorrosive on the way, courtesy of *Eggy88*, huge thanks for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I then noticed (Thanks to my BF3 clan mate) that I had the tubing installed wrong in the CPU waterblock so I swapped around the tubes to use the proper inlet/outlet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fan controllers do not take much space inside the bays so there's space enough for both the fan controllers and the pump .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto mode to remove all pump vibration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it, not the best but I am very proud of it being first timer doing this.


Looks nice. One thing though. Get your pump below the Reservoir. You want the Res feeding the Pump to preserve it's lifespan.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe... maybe this would grab your attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need some opinions from you guys about painting my "new" radiator. Let me preface this with a little background though.
> 
> Originally, I bought a used XSPC RX480 used off another forum. For $80 and seeing that the one picture the seller had of the backside looked very clean, I thought it was a pretty good deal. Once I got the radiator in hand though, it was a completely different story!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front side (same side as the ports), which was not shown in the pic, was *F-I-L-T-H-Y* - full of clumpy dust/dirt and some sort of grime! I wish I had taken pictures to show how I am not exaggerating that it looked like it was used in a basement. But to make matters worse, it *STUNK* like gym socks!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Combine this with the amount of scratches that were not shown in that seller's pic, was enough to make me feel like I should have spent the extra ~$30 and got a new one instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got right to work and washed the radiator with detergent as thoroughly as I could so the funk and most of the dirt/dust is already gone. To remedy the horrid paint job, I decided to sand the radiator down and repaint it a glossy white.
> 
> Here is where things got interesting after about an hour of sanding!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I quite like the look of the paint-less radiator!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It reminds me a lot of the Watercool or Airplex rads from the brushed steel. Obviously not as nice, but not bad either for a fraction of the price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you guys think? Here's what I'm thinking are my options:
> 
> *1.* Leave the rad unpainted but continue sanding to get rid of the remaining paint.
> *2.* Paint just the brass chambers, at the top and bottom.
> *3.* Carry on with the original plan to paint the whole thing white.
> 
> Let me know!


Finish sanding the plenum chamber and then clearcoat the whole thing. That looks epic. Reason I say clearcoat it is oxidation will lead to rust and clearcoating it will protect the steel from rust.









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks nice. One thing though. Get your pump below the Reservoir. You want the Res feeding the Pump to preserve it's lifespan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish sanding the plenum chamber and then clearcoat the whole thing. That looks epic. Reason I say clearcoat it is oxidation will lead to rust and clearcoating it will protect the steel from rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's actually ~1cm below the reservoir.


----------



## covert ash

Thanks for the suggestion jack and Ceaddar! I will have to go back to Wal Mart to pick up the clear coat and some more 220 grit.

Does anyone think just painting the plenum chambers white, black or red would be a good idea? Keeping the stainless steel clear coated?









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skitzab1

now time to chop into the case







ow ther is a 200mmx400mm rad in the floor aswell


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Dude, are those flat white?


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> Dude, are those flat white?


The monsoons come in flat white and flat black also, will be using them for my next build me thinks.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

here my rig again updated











http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2335861/width/600/height/337







[/URL]


i love these new pumps i found check my thread out if you wanna see them and some simple test results








http://www.overclock.net/t/1254145/found-some-new-pumps/30#post_17223579


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here my rig again updated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2335861/width/600/height/337
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> i love these new pumps i found check my thread out if you wanna see them and some simple test results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1254145/found-some-new-pumps/30#post_17223579


Looks like you're using milk


----------



## superericla

I just ordered around $130 in fittings... Should be fun.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

lol yea it looks it but its not lol


----------



## chino1974

Alright guys tell me what you think of this set-up so far? I will be adding a H50 to my gpu just until I can get a waterblock for my 6870. Any advice let me have it.



Any constructive criticism is very welcome.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keru*
> 
> New pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings


Boy that is sweat looking Keru, I have always loved how great black compression fittings with red tubing looks! Red & Black rule!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Alright guys tell me what you think of this set-up so far? I will be adding a H50 to my gpu just until I can get a waterblock for my 6870. Any advice let me have it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any constructive criticism is very welcome.


It seems as though we have more than one very nice looking builds tonight/this morning for some! I looked and looked at your build I couldn't think of anything that needed attention, well maybe powder coat the micro reservoir fasteners red. The expense may not justify that though, nice and clean looking chino1974!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Not as good looking as most of the guys posting above, but here's my WC Loop setup, I am a first timer doing water!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I also have a *Lamptron FC3* and some Biocide/Anticorrosive on the way, courtesy of *Eggy88*, huge thanks for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> I then noticed (Thanks to my BF3 clan mate) that I had the tubing installed wrong in the CPU waterblock so I swapped around the tubes to use the proper inlet/outlet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fan controllers do not take much space inside the bays so there's space enough for both the fan controllers and the pump .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto mode to remove all pump vibration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it, not the best but I am very proud of it being first timer doing this.


Congratulations! and welcome to the Aqua cooling family!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keru*
> 
> New pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings


*jaw dropping* & Your rig is EPIC HUGE!

Keru, Did you lift up this HUGE RIG onto the tablet by yourself?


----------



## detroid

Hey guys this is my first watercooling build ever. It's not as fancy and expensive as yours but please have a look!









My case (exterior)



interior


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here my rig again updated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2335861/width/600/height/337
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> i love these new pumps i found check my thread out if you wanna see them and some simple test results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1254145/found-some-new-pumps/30#post_17223579


Nice take







. How are you holding the two cases together? (rivets, brackets, etc.?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Alright guys tell me what you think of this set-up so far? I will be adding a H50 to my gpu just until I can get a waterblock for my 6870. Any advice let me have it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> Any constructive criticism is very welcome.


Excellent work







and super clean. I love your red Monsoon fittings







Overall very nice and uber clean.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *detroid*
> 
> Hey guys this is my first watercooling build ever. It's not as fancy and expensive as yours but please have a look!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My case (exterior)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> interior


I like how you mounted the rad flush to your case. Nice tube and coolant. Looks like blood lines







. Try to shorten your plumbing a bit (might have to throw in some angled fittings to help)







. Great little psu you got there, had one powering a SB and two 470s


----------



## detroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice take
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . How are you holding the two cases together? (rivets, brackets, etc.?)
> Excellent work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and super clean. I love your red Monsoon fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall very nice and uber clean.
> I like how you mounted the rad flush to your case. Nice tube and coolant. Looks like blood lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Try to shorten your plumbing a bit (might have to throw in some angled fittings to help)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Great little psu you got there, had one powering a SB and two 470s


Thank you very much! I really appreciate it.
I will shorten it when I finish my exams in like 2 weeks and send you the pics and feedback, thanks








That psu is tiny but effective,sorry not to go off topic but how good is a 470 compared to 560 ti 448 core? because i plan on going sli soon with that sli mod


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *detroid*
> 
> Thank you very much! I really appreciate it.
> I will shorten it when I finish my exams in like 2 weeks and send you the pics and feedback, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That psu is tiny but effective,sorry not to go off topic but how good is a 470 compared to 560 ti 448 core? because i plan on going sli soon with that sli mod


560 ti 448 is definitely the winner. 470s are no slouches but they require more power and cooling (recommended water). If you can find a 470 that can hit 900 its comparable to the 580 (stock clocks), so these guys are true giant killas. These are very rare and so they tend to fetch a bit more $$$. The 660ti should be coming soon so that will cause the 560 ti 448 prices to drop. From what I heard in the rumor mill, the 660ti is based on the 560ti 448 and should outrun a 570, but I can't confirm that tbh.

edit: btw, Looks you'll be needing the SLi hack to run two 560s on your awesome mb









double edit: I'm waiting to take delivery of four GTX 560 Ti 448


----------



## detroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 560 ti 448 is definitely the winner. 470s are no slouches but they require more power and cooling (recommended water). If you can find a 470 that can hit 900 its comparable to the 580 (stock clocks), so these guys are true giant killas. These are very rare and so they tend to fetch a bit more $$$. The 660ti should be coming soon so that will cause the 560 ti 448 prices to drop. From what I heard in the rumor mill, the 660ti is based on the 560ti 448 and should outrun a 570, but I can't confirm that tbh.
> edit: btw, Looks you'll be needing the SLi hack to run two 560s on your awesome mb


ohh im excited now! I now thinking of selling my 560 ti and going for the 660 but anyways, I'll just wait and see what happens. thanks for the info, rep to you


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice take
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . How are you holding the two cases together? (rivets, brackets, etc.?)
> Excellent work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and super clean. I love your red Monsoon fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall very nice and uber clean.
> I like how you mounted the rad flush to your case. Nice tube and coolant. Looks like blood lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Try to shorten your plumbing a bit (might have to throw in some angled fittings to help)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Great little psu you got there, had one powering a SB and two 470s


believe it or not i'm using zip-ties to hold the two case together and it working wonderfully


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> believe it or not i'm using zip-ties to hold the two case together and it working wonderfully


Ghetto mod FTW


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ghetto mod FTW


some how i knew you would say that lol but at least you can see that zips ties


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> some how i knew you would say that lol but at least you can see that zips ties


lol. A few pop rivets should hold that in place. They're super cheap and you can find the riveter in many hardware stores.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not sure I would trust zipties anymore. I just used a ziptie to attach a purselock to my front 200. Didn't use blade one near it. B4 I got it all the way tightened it actually fell in half. No telltale snap. Just fell to the table. After seeing that I sure wouldn't trust them to connect two cases.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *detroid*
> 
> ohh im excited now! I now thinking of selling my 560 ti and going for the 660 but anyways, I'll just wait and see what happens. thanks for the info, rep to you


dont do it, you have some of the latest and best tech for the price.

you probobly dont know who i am

but my advice wait until next revision

the only people really upgrading should be 450 460 users.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure I would trust zipties anymore. I just used a ziptie to attach a purselock to my front 200. Didn't use blade one near it. B4 I got it all the way tightened it actually fell in half. No telltale snap. Just fell to the table. After seeing that I sure wouldn't trust them to connect two cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


trust me man the zippies works great...i mean its held together so well you would think the case was made that way lol


----------



## detroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> dont do it, you have some of the latest and best tech for the price.
> you probobly dont know who i am
> but my advice wait until next revision
> the only people really upgrading should be 450 460 users.


Yeah, i see what you mean about the upgrade. I will save my money and get another gtx 560 ti. thanks for advice and i know you now







!


----------



## oceanlyner

Just added a Phobya 200mm Rad.



Took a bit more work to fit in than I expected..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks nice. One thing though. Get your pump below the Reservoir. You want the Res feeding the Pump to preserve it's lifespan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish sanding the plenum chamber and then clearcoat the whole thing. That looks epic. Reason I say clearcoat it is oxidation will lead to rust and clearcoating it will protect the steel from rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Stainless steel doesn't rust,that's why its stainless....


----------



## Marcusk

Spoiler: Quote: Ceadderman



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks. I'm aware of the number, but the number on my PCB is 109-C22237-00. The SKU# number on the Cooler however is 21179-00
> So I think Sapphire dropped a Reference cooler onto my cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figure the only way to find out is to get a Reference backplate and try to match it up with the card that is intact. If it works then the block should work. If not, I didn't spend a ton of money an can at least recoup more than 80% of what I paid for the plate by offering it here in marketplace. Would like to get it all at once but I think this is one time where it's okay to take my time and make sure to get it right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder






Well, if you look at this picture from Techpowerup or Koolance of a reference HD 6870 PCB it looks identical to your GPU in the image you took:

Techpowerup:
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/upload/pictures/HIS-Radeon-HD6870-1GB-PCB.jpg

Koolance:
https://koolance.com/image/content_pages/product_help/video_card_pcb_layouts/pcb_amd_radeon_hd6870_reference.jpg

I have my 6870 infront of me to right now, it's PCB also looks exactly like yours and i have a EK-FC6870 mounted on it with no trouble.


----------



## shorty00735

Modded my H60.


----------



## Keru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Boy that is sweat looking Keru, I have always loved how great black compression fittings with red tubing looks! Red & Black rule!


I agree.









Greetings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Congratulations! and welcome to the Aqua cooling family!
> *jaw dropping* & Your rig is EPIC HUGE!
> Keru, Did you lift up this HUGE RIG onto the tablet by yourself?


Jejeje!! If heavy, but I could with it.









Greetings.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Stainless steel doesn't rust,that's why its stainless....


I'm not sure if the radiator walls are made of stainless steel to being with. What I should have said is that they have a nice brushed steel look to it.









All the same, maybe a clearcoat will bring about, or preserve, the nice aesthetic look to it. Still have some work to go, especially with cleaning the fins...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> I'm not sure if the radiator walls are made of stainless steel to being with. What I should have said is that they have a nice brushed steel look to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the same, maybe a clearcoat will bring about, or preserve, the nice aesthetic look to it. Still have some work to go, especially with cleaning the fins...


Why not put a clear coat on it. I like it the way you have it now. I think its original.


----------



## Mr Frosty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oceanlyner*
> 
> Just added a Phobya 200mm Rad.
> 
> Took a bit more work to fit in than I expected..


I would of put the rad the other way to shorten the tube length.


----------



## OverSightX

Platform update to mine:


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Why not put a clear coat on it. I like it the way you have it now. I think its original.


Yeah the only thing now is finding which one to use:


http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=166

or


http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=164


----------



## Alatar

Something I've been working on











Will upload some more pics as soon as I get them sorted


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oceanlyner*
> 
> Just added a Phobya 200mm Rad.
> 
> Took a bit more work to fit in than I expected..


Lol same with mine. Its a good rad but bigger then 200mm. Defiantly need to do some modding most of the time to make them fit.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> I would of put the rad the other way to shorten the tube length.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oceanlyner*
> 
> Just added a Phobya 200mm Rad.
> 
> Took a bit more work to fit in than I expected..


It would also be easier to bleed all the air out of your radiator!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Platform update to mine:


Good job mate but I think you accidentely forgot to watercool the motherboard.


----------



## detroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Platform update to mine:


WHAT A BEAST!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks nice. One thing though. Get your pump below the Reservoir. You want the Res feeding the Pump to preserve it's lifespan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finish sanding the plenum chamber and then clearcoat the whole thing. That looks epic. Reason I say clearcoat it is oxidation will lead to rust and clearcoating it will protect the steel from rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stainless steel doesn't rust,that's why its stainless....
Click to expand...

Yeah okay, you keep thinkin that. It's not SUPPOSED to rust. I got plenty of "stainless steel" that rusts.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Why not put a clear coat on it. I like it the way you have it now. I think its original.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah the only thing now is finding which one to use:
> 
> 
> http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=166
Click to expand...

This'n. They should both do the job quite well but this'n.









I think you should leave the brass alone one you get it sanded down and hit that too. If there is some leftover black it would look fine covered with clear.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Moved the radiator back up top, added the T for easy draining. All ready to add the 6950 the loop...


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Good job mate but I think you accidentely forgot to watercool the motherboard.


I KNEW I FORGOT SOMETHING! haha I thought about it, but i personally don't like all the extra tubing. I am thinking twice about it though because the chipset fan on the board is much louder than I expected. I read on it before getting it and all reviews are accurate-its LOUD.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *detroid*
> 
> WHAT A BEAST!


Thanks! I came from a 920 @4.2 and it's definitely "snappier" now at everything.


----------



## Aventadoor

Whats the best premixed coolant with color? Like doesnt make up gunk , im not afraid of stain
I cant seem to find a redtube which satisfy my needs!


----------



## phillyd

you should try using mayhem's dyes.
why so adamant on premixed?


----------



## Aventadoor

I have EK nickel blocks so I dont wanna use like distilled water + any sort of stuff








Can you use the mayhems with lets say Alphacool double protect clear liquid?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I cant seem to find a redtube which satisfy my needs!


Lol... Wut u did there. I see it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> I would of put the rad the other way to shorten the tube length.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> It would also be easier to bleed all the air out of your radiator!


To me it looks like he had no other choice. The larger end tank prevents him from rotating the radiator 180˚.


----------



## kcuestag

Hello guys,

I plan on replacing my current 10/8mm tubing/fittings with the following:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/Fittings/Connectors/19/13mm-Connectors/EK-Water-Blocks-Anschluss-1-4-Zoll-auf-19-13mm-EN::15668.html
http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/Tubes/19/13mm-Tubes/Masterkleer-Schlauch-18-125mm-klar-1m::7459.html

And also buying Mayhem colorant for my loop:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Wasserkuehlung/Wasserzusaetze/Alle-Wasserzusaetze/Mayhems-Dye-Deep-Blue-10ml::18495.html?language=en

Two questions:

1. Are those EK compression fittings good? At the moment I am using *these*.

2. I am currently using *Anti-Corro Fluid* and some *Mayhems Biocide* together with the distilled water in my loop. Would it be okay to use that Mayhem Blue Dye together with the distilled water, biocide, and anti corro fluid? I want to make sure it is 100% safe to use that combination without creating any chemical reactions or possible failures.









Thanks a lot!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah okay, you keep thinkin that. It's not SUPPOSED to rust. I got plenty of "stainless steel" that rusts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This'n. They should both do the job quite well but this'n.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you should leave the brass alone one you get it sanded down and hit that too. If there is some leftover black it would look fine covered with clear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Then its not stainless steel,the non rusting is the defining charactaristic of stainless. Why do you think watercool hk's and ek blocks have stainless jet plates?
I have spent over 20 years In machine shops,I know metals...
So yeah,I will keep thinking that...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hello guys,
> I plan on replacing my current 10/8mm tubing/fittings with the following:
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/Fittings/Connectors/19/13mm-Connectors/EK-Water-Blocks-Anschluss-1-4-Zoll-auf-19-13mm-EN::15668.html
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/Tubes/19/13mm-Tubes/Masterkleer-Schlauch-18-125mm-klar-1m::7459.html
> And also buying Mayhem colorant for my loop:
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Wasserkuehlung/Wasserzusaetze/Alle-Wasserzusaetze/Mayhems-Dye-Deep-Blue-10ml::18495.html?language=en
> Two questions:
> 1. Are those EK compression fittings good? At the moment I am using *these*.
> 2. I am currently using *Anti-Corro Fluid* and some *Mayhems Biocide* together with the distilled water in my loop. Would it be okay to use that Mayhem Blue Dye together with the distilled water, biocide, and anti corro fluid? I want to make sure it is 100% safe to use that combination without creating any chemical reactions or possible failures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot!


Don't use a Cu based biocide with dye,it breaks the dye down.
Go to specialtech.co.uk and join our forums,Mayhem runs his test threads there,he did some experiments with biocide and dye that makes interesting reading...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Don't use a Cu based biocide with dye,it breaks the dye down.
> Go to specialtech.co.uk and join our forums,Mayhem runs his test threads there,he did some experiments with biocide and dye that makes interesting reading...


That's a huge dissapointment, I really wanted to use that Mayhem dye, but not if I can't use something to prevent algae and corrosion......


----------



## Eggy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Don't use a Cu based biocide with dye,it breaks the dye down.
> Go to specialtech.co.uk and join our forums,Mayhem runs his test threads there,he did some experiments with biocide and dye that makes interesting reading...


Thats strange, you would think that a Mayhem Dye and Mayhem Biocide would work together but i guess they don't.


----------



## coolmiester

Insomnia 45, a HUGE event on the gaming calendar here in the UK and we've teamed up with TCM Gaming / CCL Computers / CM Storm and along with loads of XSPC Kit, we'll have a few of our mods on show so why not stop by and say hello









I'll try to post some pictures live from the event but so far i have the following :

*Hardware:*
Coolermaster Cosmos S
Coolermaster 1050w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU
Intel DX79SI Motherboard
Intel LGA2011 Sandy Bridge-E 3930X CPU
Kingston 32GB HyperX Ram
Kingston 120 HyperX SSD
Zotac GTX590
XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
XSPC GTX590 Block
Bitspower Barbs


















































































*Hardware:*
H2 Tower+ Case (10PCI)
Raystorm CPU Blocks
EX480 + EX360 Radiators
Laing D5 Bay Res
7/16" High Flex Hose
Bitspower Barbs
Thermochill EC6 Red Coolant
Phobya Red LED Fans
EVGA SR-2 Motherboard
Intel Xeon X5650 CPU's
EVGA GTX480 Hydro Copper Sli
Kingston HyperX SSD + 24GB RAM
Coolermaster 1300w Hybrid Modular PSU
Lamptron FC6 Fan Controllers























































*Hardware:*
Coolermaster Cosmos II
Coolermaster 1300w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU
Intel Skulltrail Motherboard
Intel QX9775 CPU's
Hynix 16GB HyperX Ram
Kingston 120 HyperX SSD
Zotac GTX580
XSPC Raystorm CPU Blocks
XSPC GTX50 Block
XSPC EX480 and EX240 Multiport Rads
Bitspower Barbs
Mayhem Pastel Dye


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's a huge dissapointment, I really wanted to use that Mayhem dye, but not if I can't use something to prevent algae and corrosion......


You only need a anti corrosive for mixed metal loops with Alu in and a silver coil works well as a bio killer.
He is working on a dye friendly biocide,I have not been sent anything to test yet tho


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You found the thread then Coolmiester? Is Namron joining too?


----------



## derickwm

Loving the 2P rigs...


----------



## kcuestag

What about using this:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Mayhems-Aurora-Tharsis-Nebula-Silver-Blue-1000ml::18489.html

Would it work with my EK DCP 4.0 pump? I don't see it listed here:

http://mayhems-aurora.wikispaces.com/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Loving the 2P rigs...


Coolmiester is a total 2p slut,I got my sr2 board from him,3weeks later he buys another one coz he can't bear to be without one...
I did chuckle..


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What about using this:
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Mayhems-Aurora-Tharsis-Nebula-Silver-Blue-1000ml::18489.html
> Would it work with my EK DCP 4.0 pump? I don't see it listed here:
> http://mayhems-aurora.wikispaces.com/


It should work since it has ~4m head pressure. The Laing D5 (variable) is roughly 3.35m which is approved on their list.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What about using this:
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Mayhems-Aurora-Tharsis-Nebula-Silver-Blue-1000ml::18489.html
> Would it work with my EK DCP 4.0 pump? I don't see it listed here:
> http://mayhems-aurora.wikispaces.com/


I belive the jingway works well with it,when he comes on specialtech later I will ask him and let you know.
I remember him using those pumps for ages tho....


----------



## kcuestag

Mayhem says the Aurora liquid is not meant to be used for 24/7 systems. Should I go for the Mayhem Pastel instead? http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/Coolants/Additives/All-Coolants/Mayhems-Pastel-Blue-Berry-1000ml::18502.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> It should work since it has ~4m head pressure. The Laing D5 (variable) is roughly 3.35m which is approved on their list.


Pressure has nothing to do with how aurora works,its all about flow rate


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Pastel is good,its thermal properties are not as good as water tho.
40c is when it comes into its own. Too high for Wc loops tho....


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pressure has nothing to do with how aurora works,its all about flow rate


I'm just going off of the link kcuestag posted: http://mayhems-aurora.wikispaces.com/
Quote:


> *Pumps with Low overhead pressure are not recommend for use with this Fluid.*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I'm just going off of the link kcuestag posted: http://mayhems-aurora.wikispaces.com/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Pumps with Low overhead pressure are not recommend for use with this Fluid.*
Click to expand...

Ah.
I have not read that,I'm going by the dev thread at specialtech..


----------



## kcuestag

The Mayhems Pastel will give me same temperatures as distilled water? I don't want to get worse temperatures.









If it's 1ºC I guess I wouldn't mind, but more than that I'd have to think about it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The Mayhems Pastel will give me same temperatures as distilled water? I don't want to get worse temperatures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it's 1ºC I guess I wouldn't mind, but more than that I'd have to think about it.


Its a couple of degrees higher than water.


----------



## oceanlyner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> To me it looks like he had no other choice. The larger end tank prevents him from rotating the radiator 180˚.


Correct, it would have taken more modding than I was comfortable with to fit it the other way round. I would have to cut out the whole bottom of the optical drive bay, or cut a bigger vent in the front and mount it lower.

It will look better when I get my GPU block and new pump in.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a couple of degrees higher than water.


1ºC? 2ºC? or a lot more?









According to this:

http://www.overclockerstech.com/mayhems-pastel-x1-roundup/3/

The difference is not even 1ºC?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 1ºC? 2ºC? or a lot more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to this:
> http://www.overclockerstech.com/mayhems-pastel-x1-roundup/3/
> The difference is not even 1ºC?


Gilgamesh is not reliable,I am going by what mayhem told me himself


----------



## kcuestag

Well I guess I will try it out my self.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Well I guess I will try it out my self.


I think that's a wise choice,you can speak with mayhem in the specialtech chatbox...when he is on,he has strange waking hours..XD


----------



## kcuestag

I just hope a single 1000ml bottle is enough, as I can't afford two right now, but I think I'm using 700-800ml right now on my loop.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Gilgamesh is not reliable,I am going by what mayhem told me himself


Says who?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> .
> Says who?


Says me and everyone else he has ripped off.
he has a lot of people looking for him,he is banned from a few forums now for underhand behaviour.

You not hear about bob Todd?
Or stitching comp entrants to favour his friends at Aria?


----------



## kcuestag

Well I ordered it and we'll see how it behaves compared to distilled water.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: TONS of pics!
> 
> 
> 
> Insomnia 45, a HUGE event on the gaming calendar here in the UK and we've teamed up with TCM Gaming / CCL Computers / CM Storm and along with loads of XSPC Kit, we'll have a few of our mods on show so why not stop by and say hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try to post some pictures live from the event but so far i have the following :
> *Hardware:*
> Coolermaster Cosmos S
> Coolermaster 1050w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU
> Intel DX79SI Motherboard
> Intel LGA2011 Sandy Bridge-E 3930X CPU
> Kingston 32GB HyperX Ram
> Kingston 120 HyperX SSD
> Zotac GTX590
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> XSPC GTX590 Block
> Bitspower Barbs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hardware:*
> H2 Tower+ Case (10PCI)
> Raystorm CPU Blocks
> EX480 + EX360 Radiators
> Laing D5 Bay Res
> 7/16" High Flex Hose
> Bitspower Barbs
> Thermochill EC6 Red Coolant
> Phobya Red LED Fans
> EVGA SR-2 Motherboard
> Intel Xeon X5650 CPU's
> EVGA GTX480 Hydro Copper Sli
> Kingston HyperX SSD + 24GB RAM
> Coolermaster 1300w Hybrid Modular PSU
> Lamptron FC6 Fan Controllers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hardware:*
> Coolermaster Cosmos II
> Coolermaster 1300w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU
> Intel Skulltrail Motherboard
> Intel QX9775 CPU's
> Hynix 16GB HyperX Ram
> Kingston 120 HyperX SSD
> Zotac GTX580
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Blocks
> XSPC GTX50 Block
> XSPC EX480 and EX240 Multiport Rads
> Bitspower Barbs
> Mayhem Pastel Dye


Those are some amazing builds!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## kazenagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> so....
> Anyone else ever gotten Phobya branded gummy bears?


Maple syrup candies from Dazmode > gummy bears


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Alright guys tell me what you think of this set-up so far? I will be adding a H50 to my gpu just until I can get a waterblock for my 6870. Any advice let me have it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any constructive criticism is very welcome.


First of all, those fittings look really good. I think I'll be looking for some of those when I do my folding rig. Also, that drain port (I'm assuming) is brilliant


----------



## wermad

All this talk on pastel







, I can't find a decent clear tube that won't plasticize







. Can't wait to see how this new primochill color looks like in my build. I'm also torn between keeping my black and blue theme or going white with blue accents; including painting my new case white









Ordered two HK dual bridges and hopefully my two koolance sli fittings will work


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This'n. They should both do the job quite well but this'n.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you should leave the brass alone one you get it sanded down and hit that too. If there is some leftover black it would look fine covered with clear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks!









I'll post back later this week with my progress.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah okay, you keep thinkin that. It's not SUPPOSED to rust. I got plenty of "stainless steel" that rusts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This'n. They should both do the job quite well but this'n.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you should leave the brass alone one you get it sanded down and hit that too. If there is some leftover black it would look fine covered with clear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its not stainless steel,the non rusting is the defining charactaristic of stainless. Why do you think watercool hk's and ek blocks have stainless jet plates?
> I have spent over 20 years In machine shops,I know metals...
> So yeah,I will keep thinking that...
Click to expand...

Stailess steel can get rust. It's just easier to clean off. It's not IMPERVIOUS to rust. It's RESISTENT to rust. There is a difference. The quality of Stainless steel has gone down considerably over the last 10 years or so. As I said I have stainless steel and if you leave it to sit in water long enough it will start the process. Grew up around all kinds of shops so it's not like I'm stupid or sittin round with my thumb up me bum. I'm not saying that you don't have a clue what you're talkin bout just relating MY experience.









Oh an dude, you mind with the multiple posts? At least make an attempt to combine replies where you can okay?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Alright guys tell me what you think of this set-up so far? I will be adding a H50 to my gpu just until I can get a waterblock for my 6870. Any advice let me have it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any constructive criticism is very welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First of all, those fittings look really good. I think I'll be looking for some of those when I do my folding rig. Also, that drain port (I'm assuming) is brilliant
Click to expand...

Agreed.









~Ceadder


----------



## solidshark91493

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Insomnia 45, a HUGE event on the gaming calendar here in the UK and we've teamed up with TCM Gaming / CCL Computers / CM Storm and along with loads of XSPC Kit, we'll have a few of our mods on show so why not stop by and say hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try to post some pictures live from the event but so far i have the following :
> *Hardware:*
> Coolermaster Cosmos S
> Coolermaster 1050w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU
> Intel DX79SI Motherboard
> Intel LGA2011 Sandy Bridge-E 3930X CPU
> Kingston 32GB HyperX Ram
> Kingston 120 HyperX SSD
> Zotac GTX590
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> XSPC GTX590 Block
> Bitspower Barbs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hardware:*
> H2 Tower+ Case (10PCI)
> Raystorm CPU Blocks
> EX480 + EX360 Radiators
> Laing D5 Bay Res
> 7/16" High Flex Hose
> Bitspower Barbs
> Thermochill EC6 Red Coolant
> Phobya Red LED Fans
> EVGA SR-2 Motherboard
> Intel Xeon X5650 CPU's
> EVGA GTX480 Hydro Copper Sli
> Kingston HyperX SSD + 24GB RAM
> Coolermaster 1300w Hybrid Modular PSU
> Lamptron FC6 Fan Controllers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hardware:*
> Coolermaster Cosmos II
> Coolermaster 1300w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU
> Intel Skulltrail Motherboard
> Intel QX9775 CPU's
> Hynix 16GB HyperX Ram
> Kingston 120 HyperX SSD
> Zotac GTX580
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Blocks
> XSPC GTX50 Block
> XSPC EX480 and EX240 Multiport Rads
> Bitspower Barbs
> Mayhem Pastel Dye






Does anyone know what that first Pc's Top bay device is? I want one O.O


----------



## derickwm

Holy crap I just realized that Skulltrail system has 16GB of ram. That must've been EXPENSIVE. Although I'm sure you had sponsored but damn... That was a major downer on ST for me, that expensive ram


----------



## prznar1

u rly can't use spoilers?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh an dude, you mind with the multiple posts? At least make an attempt to combine replies where you can okay?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I don't see any double/triple posts from him. What's the issue?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> u rly can't use spoilers?


I think the proper way to use spoilers is to spoiler the images in someone's quote. Unless you have a specific question, then quote with a pic or two. But as a courtesy to all members reading and participating, hide the quote's pics in spoilers to keep the thread clean.

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-

Here's the tube Primochill sent me. I haven't gotten word from them or my contacts if this is nda stuff but I don't have the official name. I just call it "Pearl" or "Metallic" blue. On the right is the UV Blue from them to compare. I'm using "electric blue" paracord to accent my psu sleeved cables and with the blue led R4s. I'm really leaning on this new blue tube to go into my next build, but the uv blue would look nice as well. What do you guys think?


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> I'm not sure if the radiator walls are made of stainless steel to being with. What I should have said is that they have a nice brushed steel look to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the same, maybe a clearcoat will bring about, or preserve, the nice aesthetic look to it. Still have some work to go, especially with cleaning the fins...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like that look, it's the RX480 isn't it? I have a RX480 just laying around and interested in getting this look, except for the top part doesn't look that good. Were you using sand paper (wet or dry?) or paint thinner? If you used sand paper to give it that brushed look what grit did you use? Did you do anything different to the top part or is that what it looks like after you take the paint off? Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh an dude, you mind with the multiple posts? At least make an attempt to combine replies where you can okay?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see any double/triple posts from him. What's the issue?
Click to expand...












Spoiler: Plenty of times



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah okay, you keep thinkin that. It's not SUPPOSED to rust. I got plenty of "stainless steel" that rusts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This'n. They should both do the job quite well but this'n.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you should leave the brass alone one you get it sanded down and hit that too. If there is some leftover black it would look fine covered with clear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its not stainless steel,the non rusting is the defining charactaristic of stainless. Why do you think watercool hk's and ek blocks have stainless jet plates?
> I have spent over 20 years In machine shops,I know metals...
> So yeah,I will keep thinking that...
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hello guys,
> I plan on replacing my current 10/8mm tubing/fittings with the following:
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/Fittings/Connectors/19/13mm-Connectors/EK-Water-Blocks-Anschluss-1-4-Zoll-auf-19-13mm-EN::15668.html
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/Tubes/19/13mm-Tubes/Masterkleer-Schlauch-18-125mm-klar-1m::7459.html
> And also buying Mayhem colorant for my loop:
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Wasserkuehlung/Wasserzusaetze/Alle-Wasserzusaetze/Mayhems-Dye-Deep-Blue-10ml::18495.html?language=en
> Two questions:
> 1. Are those EK compression fittings good? At the moment I am using *these*.
> 2. I am currently using *Anti-Corro Fluid* and some *Mayhems Biocide* together with the distilled water in my loop. Would it be okay to use that Mayhem Blue Dye together with the distilled water, biocide, and anti corro fluid? I want to make sure it is 100% safe to use that combination without creating any chemical reactions or possible failures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot!
> 
> 
> 
> Don't use a Cu based biocide with dye,it breaks the dye down.
> Go to specialtech.co.uk and join our forums,Mayhem runs his test threads there,he did some experiments with biocide and dye that makes interesting reading...
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's a huge dissapointment, I really wanted to use that Mayhem dye, but not if I can't use something to prevent algae and corrosion......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You only need a anti corrosive for mixed metal loops with Alu in and a silver coil works well as a bio killer.
> He is working on a dye friendly biocide,I have not been sent anything to test yet tho
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You found the thread then Coolmiester? Is Namron joining too?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> It should work since it has ~4m head pressure. The Laing D5 (variable) is roughly 3.35m which is approved on their list.
> 
> 
> 
> Pressure has nothing to do with how aurora works,its all about flow rate
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pastel is good,its thermal properties are not as good as water tho.
> 40c is when it comes into its own. Too high for Wc loops tho....






Normally I don't say anything about multi posting. It happens an am not out to make a big stink of it. Just asked nicely in the future to try to avoid it is all.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

I'll just leave this here for you all to discuss and prepare your next builds for:

_"This is the Standard version, the color disks come in all 10 monsoon finishes so you guys can mix an match however you like. The render makes it look bigger than it is. They occupy about the same space envelope overall that a BP rotary with compression does--about 3mm or 4mm taller, 2mm or 3mm narrower and 2mm or 3mm smaller side to side. Not sure where resellers will price them but should be inline with BP or a little less. There is a second version launching at the same time that will sell for about $1 more that has some extra features."_


----------



## Nano5656

my god no. it's too beautiful. in chrome. oh jesus. (haha get it?)

I want to use bp fittings, i want to you bp fittings, i want to use bp fittings.........
nope not working, gonna wait for those to drop. lol


----------



## phillyd

Gene from Monsoon sent me that a couple weeks ago, because I introduced the mixing idea to him. I'm excited about these


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I'll just leave this here for you all to discuss and prepare your next builds for:
> _"This is the Standard version, the color disks come in all 10 monsoon finishes so you guys can mix an match however you like. The render makes it look bigger than it is. They occupy about the same space envelope overall that a BP rotary with compression does--about 3mm or 4mm taller, 2mm or 3mm narrower and 2mm or 3mm smaller side to side. Not sure where resellers will price them but should be inline with BP or a little less. There is a second version launching at the same time that will sell for about $1 more that has some extra features."_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love these fittings, I just dislike the price :-/

They look amazing though!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> I love these fittings, I just dislike the price :-/
> 
> They look amazing though!


They'll be about or less than BP and you love them, how could it be better (realistically. There's no reason they'd undercut BP by a lot)?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally I don't say anything about multi posting. It happens an am not out to make a big stink of it. Just asked nicely in the future to try to avoid it is all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Go back and look at his posts. There are 10+ minutes between them, most 20+, all of which have other people posting between them. I don't see the issue.


----------



## RushMore1205

does monsoon have an official website?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> does monsoon have an official website?


Not that I've ever found. All the updates are maintained on XtremeSystems. I think Gene is too busy to deal with a website right now


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I'll just leave this here for you all to discuss and prepare your next builds for:
> _"This is the Standard version, the color disks come in all 10 monsoon finishes so you guys can mix an match however you like. The render makes it look bigger than it is. They occupy about the same space envelope overall that a BP rotary with compression does--about 3mm or 4mm taller, 2mm or 3mm narrower and 2mm or 3mm smaller side to side. Not sure where resellers will price them but should be inline with BP or a little less. There is a second version launching at the same time that will sell for about $1 more that has some extra features."_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If those are 90* fittings then I would like all of my fittings to be 90* (







), gosh darn beautiful!


----------



## Mr Frosty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Something I've been working on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will upload some more pics as soon as I get them sorted


Love it!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Love it!!!


I do love a bit of phase action,shame little devil didn't have any SR2 phase boxes for sale when I got my case,would of got for sure!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What about using this:
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Mayhems-Aurora-Tharsis-Nebula-Silver-Blue-1000ml::18489.html
> Would it work with my EK DCP 4.0 pump? I don't see it listed here:
> http://mayhems-aurora.wikispaces.com/


I just spoke with mayhem,that pump is fine,if you are wanting more flow I have the 800 lph version sitting on a shelf here that you can have if you pay the shipping
You will need to rebraid the cable tho....


----------



## Mr Frosty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do love a bit of phase action,shame little devil didn't have any SR2 phase boxes for sale when I got my case,would of got for sure!!


He makes them to order only iirc..

They wouldn't be big enough anyway, he splits the load between the CPU's and ~ 150w per CPU wouldn't be enough to make it worth while.


----------



## trendy

Stainless steel has chromium, which makes it rust proof, unless the surface is compromised in such a way to disrupt the chromium oxide layer preventing the rust from forming.


----------



## siffonen

Another small update for my rig, i added a XSPC EX240 radiator after cpu.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Another small update for my rig, i added a XSPC EX240 radiator after cpu.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can fit the EX rad inside your case.

I have a EX120, EX240 and EX360 in there.


----------



## kcuestag

What does tubing that wont plasticize mean? The Mayhems Pastel coolant arrives tomorrow and I'm going nuts if I should use it or not, I ordered this tubing:

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p10819_Masterkleer-tubing-PVC-19-13mm--1-2-ID--clear.html

Will it be safe to use the Mayhems Pastel on that tubing?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just spoke with mayhem,that pump is fine,if you are wanting more flow I have the 800 lph version sitting on a shelf here that you can have if you pay the shipping
> You will need to rebraid the cable tho....


I do have the EK DCP 4.0 which is the 800 l/h version, thanks a lot for the kindness though, I ended up ordering the Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry as I read the Aurora is not meant to be used for 24/7 systems so I did not want to risk it.









The Mayhems Pastel should be fine with my tubing right? and will the biocide and anti-corro which is already prepared in the coolant prevent stain/rust and algae? Those are my only worries and I want to make sure they will prevent it before I decide to replace distilled water for that.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What does tubing that wont plasticize mean? The Mayhems Pastel coolant arrives tomorrow and I'm going nuts if I should use it or not, I ordered this tubing:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p10819_Masterkleer-tubing-PVC-19-13mm--1-2-ID--clear.html
> Will it be safe to use the Mayhems Pastel on that tubing?
> I do have the EK DCP 4.0 which is the 800 l/h version, thanks a lot for the kindness though, I ended up ordering the Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry as I read the Aurora is not meant to be used for 24/7 systems so I did not want to risk it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mayhems Pastel should be fine with my tubing right? and will the biocide and anti-corro which is already prepared in the coolant prevent stain/rust and algae? Those are my only worries and I want to make sure they will prevent it before I decide to replace distilled water for that.


Mayhem likes Masterkleer tubing so you should be fine. Pastel is said to last 2 years in an "everyday" rig.

EDIT: Make sure you flush everything really really well with distilled water before adding the coolant.


----------



## Mayhem

yes it will be fine







. Got Ninjad


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Mayhem likes Masterkleer tubing so you should be fine. Pastel is said to last 2 years in an "everyday" rig.
> EDIT: Make sure you flush everything really really well with distilled water before adding the coolant.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yes it will be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Got Ninjad


Thank you guys, I really appreciate it! Currently using distilled water with a drop of Mayhems biocide and 15ml of anti-corro fluid, I will make sure I still flush them with some distilled water.









By the way, I take it that the coolant will conduct electricity right? Oh well, I heard distilled water too as soon as you use it in the loop.









Thank you both, really appreciate it.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thank you guys, I really appreciate it! Currently using distilled water with a drop of Mayhems biocide and 15ml of anti-corro fluid, I will make sure I still flush them with some distilled water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I take it that the coolant will conduct electricity right? Oh well, I heard distilled water too as soon as you use it in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you both, really appreciate it.


The coolant will not/not conduct electricity. I had a problem with a barb and it leaked on my GPU... no issues at all. Distilled water is water.. it a conductor.


----------



## oceanlyner

Distilled water isn't conductive, it's the impurities in water that conduct electricity.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oceanlyner*
> 
> Distilled water isn't conductive, it's the impurities in water that conduct electricity.


It depends on how "pure" your water is. Mine comes out of a distiller since the local water is no good to drink. It will conduct. If you buy the ultra pure stuff, may be a different story.


----------



## superericla

Any liquid put in a water cooling loop will become conductive over time from picking up small metal ions from the water blocks and radiators.


----------



## Krahe

All water will become conductive over time, contact with metal parts in your loop, dust particles ect.

ninja'd


----------



## oceanlyner

As soon as it goes in your loop it picks up impurities anyway, so I suppose its a moot point.

Wow, super Ninja'd..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yes it will be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Got Ninjad


Welcome to the party Mick.


----------



## Alatar

Pure distilled would be a great insulator, but as soon as the water is in contact with air you will get some ions that will make the water conduct electricity.


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks a lot guys, hopefully the Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry arrives tomorrow, any of you had a chance of trying these Mayhems Pastel coolants? What were your impressions?

Thanks!


----------



## Fuganater

I use the Lite Red Pastel with some Red Dye in it. Looks great and cools all the same. I orderd some Gigabyte Orange Pastel for my other build. Its great looking stuff!

Mayhem is working on some coolant called "X2". Its like pastel but UV reactive. Should be awesome when it comes out. Also he showed pictures of a Pastel coolant that is thermal!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks a lot guys, hopefully the Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry arrives tomorrow, any of you had a chance of trying these Mayhems Pastel coolants? What were your impressions?
> Thanks!


I have not used them personally,Mayhem has other testers doing that in conjunction with his own testing.....i am waiting for the thermodynamic variant myself. (Mick,come on now,i wantz it!)
User response has been very good so far tho,his chief liquid tester Namron has been positively horny about it!
You can get some limited sediment on GPU full cover blocks due to wall action,but it is very light and is not impacted on so it does wipe clean.

But for looks? nothing touches it.


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks again, will let you know once I start using it.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> does monsoon have an official website?


monsooncooling.com

its not up just yet.


----------



## kcuestag

I'm running a dual 180mm rad at the moment (Magicool Copper Dual 180mm) with 2x Silverstone AP-181 fans at ~800-900RPM on push which I guess is the reason why I am hitting max core temp of 73ºC with [email protected], also the pump is running at low speed too.

Would adding a 120mm rad with 2x AP-15 fans help decrease a few degrees considering I'm already running a 360 rad?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm running a dual 180mm rad at the moment (Magicool Copper Dual 180mm) with 2x Silverstone AP-181 fans at ~800-900RPM on push which I guess is the reason why I am hitting max core temp of 73ºC with [email protected], also the pump is running at low speed too.
> 
> Would adding a 120mm rad with 2x AP-15 fans help decrease a few degrees considering I'm already running a 360 rad?


increase the pump speed first.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm running a dual 180mm rad at the moment (Magicool Copper Dual 180mm) with 2x Silverstone AP-181 fans at ~800-900RPM on push which I guess is the reason why I am hitting max core temp of 73ºC with [email protected], also the pump is running at low speed too.
> Would adding a 120mm rad with 2x AP-15 fans help decrease a few degrees considering I'm already running a 360 rad?


All bits help a little bit, the extra rad will also make it so that you need a bigger volume of water, more water in the loop brings temperature's down a little bit to.

Just dont expect a huge drop in temps.

Also after you have a flow of about 0.9~1.1 GLPM increasing the flow more almost does nothing to the temperature.

Check this for some usefull info:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-and-radiator-optimizer-spreadsheet/


----------



## Alatar

Sorted some more pics


----------



## kcuestag

Increasing pump speed did seem to help ~1ºC or so.

How much of an improvement should I expect if I add a pull fan on the top of the rad? I do not have a spare 180mm fan so I would probably just add a Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm somehow.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Increasing pump speed did seem to help ~1ºC or so.
> 
> How much of an improvement should I expect if I add a pull fan on the top of the rad? I do not have a spare 180mm fan so I would probably just add a Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm somehow.


feel your blocks, and around the chips. are the backs of the mobo/gpu's very hot? is the metal on the blocks warm? is the tubing warm?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> feel your blocks, and around the chips. are the backs of the mobo/gpu's very hot? is the metal on the blocks warm? is the tubing warm?


The tubing is definitely not warm.

I do have a Scythe Kaze Master Ace with some temperature sensors, are those water proof? I could put one into the reservoir.









I'm only running a CPU loop, not the GPU's, and the air coming through the rad is not hot either.


----------



## phillyd

that would be cool









have you tried reseating your blocks?
and how hot are the areas around the cpu/gpu (whichever you are cooling)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> that would be cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have you tried reseating your blocks?
> and how hot are the areas around the cpu/gpu (whichever you are cooling)


What's the most recommended way of applying thermal paste? I used Arctic Cooling MX-3 and used the rice grain size drop in the middle.









I have no idea how hot the CPU block or the water is because I have no temperature sensors, but the tubing is definitely not hot.

Either ways it's a thin tubing (10/8mm) and I ordered some 19/13mm tubing with new fittings hopefully that should help, even 1ºC would be cool.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What's the most recommended way of applying thermal paste? I used Arctic Cooling MX-3 and used the rice grain size drop in the middle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea how hot the CPU block or the water is because I have no temperature sensors, but the tubing is definitely not hot.
> Either ways it's a thin tubing (10/8mm) and I ordered some 19/13mm tubing with new fittings hopefully that should help, even 1ºC would be cool.


Rice grain size or pea dot in the middle are the ways to go.

I always just use a pea dot size in the middle.

Pea or rice grain isnt alot of difference lol

Edit:
19/13mm fittings dont always fit.
Like curtain pump tops and cpu blocks cant deal with there size.
Be very sure it can fit on your cpu block.

On my cpu block 19/13 would fit but it wouldnt on my pump top.
On the pump top i have 16/13 and they allready touch eachother and was a pain to install.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Rice grain size or pea dot in the middle are the ways to go.
> I always just use a pea dot size in the middle.
> Pea or rice grain isnt alot of difference lol


Thanks.

Would one of the temperature sensor readings from the Scythe Kaze Master work for the reservoir, or do I need to buy a special temperature reader for that?


----------



## phillyd

put it in a plastic bag and dip it, also just put your hand by the blocks and if there is a ton of ambient heat, you might have a problem at the block. (paste, mounting)

It may not be the best, but coating the cpu in a thin layer of tim always, and i mean *always* works well for me.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks.
> Would one of the temperature sensor readings from the Scythe Kaze Master work for the reservoir, or do I need to buy a special temperature reader for that?


You can get special fittings with temperature's sensors build in, you can easely install one in the resevoir or inline with your tubing.
http://www.aquatuning.de/index.php/cPath/141_142

Lots of options


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bitspower do a good temp probe compatible with most readouts..
I would urge you not to mix/match fans in push pull,will knacker the lowest performing fan.
I don't know off the top of my head what fpi that rad is but 900 rpm sounds too low,that's more SR territory rather than a general purpose rad,however my hands on experience with rads of that size is limited


----------



## mironccr345

hey guys, does anyone know what I can use besides this -> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html

Maybe something I can pick-up locally? Thanks!


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower do a good temp probe compatible with most readouts..
> I would urge you not to mix/match fans in push pull,will knacker the lowest performing fan.
> I don't know off the top of my head what fpi that rad is but 900 rpm sounds too low,that's more SR territory rather than a general purpose rad


I go by this.

Thin rads [30 to 35mm] for fans under 1000rpm
Medium rads [45mm] for fans from 1000 to 1800rpm
Thick rads [60mm and up] for fans from 1500rpm to as fast as possible.

Maybe not entirely correct but works for most rads.


----------



## kcuestag

This one looks cool:

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p7368_Phobya-Temperatursensor-Innen--Au-engewinde-G1-4-mit-Display--blau-.html

I guess I could just put it in the reservoir without tubing and use one of those screw plugs that normally come with radiators?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> I go by this.
> Thin rads [30 to 35mm] for fans under 1000rpm
> Medium rads [45mm] for fans from 1000 to 1800rpm
> Thick rads [60mm and up] for fans from 1500rpm to as fast as possible.
> Maybe not entirely correct but works for most rads.


A good rule of thumb,however FPI rather than the outright thickness is what determines fan speed
A good case in point is the HWL SR,55mm rad which is the best performer at 900 rpm range.
The denser the fins,the faster the fan.
Sr rads are around 7 fpi ,my GTX are 20 fpi...900 rpm doesn't work at all with them,even 38mm fans at that rpm!


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> I really like that look, it's the RX480 isn't it? I have a RX480 just laying around and interested in getting this look, except for the top part doesn't look that good. Were you using sand paper (wet or dry?) or paint thinner? If you used sand paper to give it that brushed look what grit did you use? Did you do anything different to the top part or is that what it looks like after you take the paint off? Thanks.


Yep, RX480.









I used wet/dry sandpaper to sand everything down, which is why the plenum chambers don't look that great.







I still have a lot of work to do on those top and bottom areas as it is a challenge to be able to sand down with flat paper. I may actually try paint thinner not that you mention it.







I started with 220 grit and used some 320 to touch up the steel walls.

Be sure to cover up the fins to prevent from getting the sanded paint on the fins, or accidentally sanding them down.









Hope this helps. I'll post more pictures once I make some progress.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> This one looks cool:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p7368_Phobya-Temperatursensor-Innen--Au-engewinde-G1-4-mit-Display--blau-.html
> I guess I could just put it in the reservoir without tubing and use one of those screw plugs that normally come with radiators?


That would work anywhere, you can put it on any block or resevoir and put a fitting on top.

You could also use something like this if you have an extra unused G1/4 in your resevoir:
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p4983_temperature-sensor-G1-4---black-nickel.html


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> This one looks cool:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p7368_Phobya-Temperatursensor-Innen--Au-engewinde-G1-4-mit-Display--blau-.html
> I guess I could just put it in the reservoir without tubing and use one of those screw plugs that normally come with radiators?


That is a good one in my eyes. I use 1 in each loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> That would work anywhere, you can put it on any block or resevoir and put a fitting on top.
> You could also use something like this if you have an extra unused G1/4 in your resevoir:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p4983_temperature-sensor-G1-4---black-nickel.html


almost identical to the BP temp fitting that i use,a good choice.
I have mine set up like this..








Its in the pumptop,in the unused inlet


----------



## Farih

That looks sexy


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> That would work anywhere, you can put it on any block or resevoir and put a fitting on top.
> You could also use something like this if you have an extra unused G1/4 in your resevoir:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p4983_temperature-sensor-G1-4---black-nickel.html


Nice, I think I'll use that one and use it with my Scythe Kaze Master.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Nice, I think I'll use that one and use it with my Scythe Kaze Master.


Grr, Scythe Kaze Master make's my skin crawl.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> That looks sexy


Thanks Farih.
The bench is going tho,the dust drives me mad!!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Grr, Scythe Kaze Master make's my skin crawl.....


I have a Lamptron FC3, but the Scyze Kaze comes very handy for extra low speed fans, I use it for the AP-15 fan at exhaust hot air on the top of the case, and for inside case temperature. I use the 3x AP-181 fans and the EK DCP 4.0 on the Lamptron FC3.


----------



## lowfat

The coolant colour came out pretty awesomely I must say. The coolant is a mix of Ice Dragon and distilled. Plus about 40ml of Mayhems deep blue dye.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> monsooncooling.com
> its not up just yet.


Go there anyway guys and watch the bubbles!


----------



## phillyd

ik i love it haha ^^


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> hey guys, does anyone know what I can use besides this -> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html
> Maybe something I can pick-up locally? Thanks!


Call up FrozenCPU. I've heard they (or Performance-PCS) will work with you on shipping charges as items that small and light do not work very well with their automated shipping system. If you don't want tracking, I'm sure they can throw the vial in an envelope with a single stamp, and charge you $1 rather than $7 or whatever the site wants.


----------



## kcuestag

Got an email from aquatuning saying the tubing wasn't on stock, so I told them to change it for the same one but the 3,3 meter pack instead of 2x of 1 meter.

I hope they ship it tomorrow latest.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ik i love it haha ^^


I had to see. lol and theres bubbles to watch! So its like, alright that the site isnt fully operational yet.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A good rule of thumb,however FPI rather than the outright thickness is what determines fan speed
> A good case in point is the HWL SR,55mm rad which is the best performer at 900 rpm range.
> The denser the fins,the faster the fan.
> Sr rads are around 7 fpi ,my GTX are 30 fpi...900 rpm doesn't work at all with them,even 38mm fans at that rpm!


FYI, GTX are 20FPI.
http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=11
Quote:


> Radically optimized 20 FPI (Fins Per Inch) fin density providing dramatically increased heat transfer surface area.


The GTS is 30FPI.
http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=27&Itemid=24
Quote:


> Unprecedented Ultra-high 30 FPI (Fins Per Inch) fin density providing dramatically increased heat transfer surface area.


With the 'average' radiator today, FPI is between 9(thermochill) and 14(swiftech) FPI. These rads you'll get decent performance with fans that operate between 1200 and 1400RPM. After that, the cooling scaling as airflow increases will be diminishing. That's why we see so many people switching off conventional rads to GTX/GTS style. I'm sure everyone noticed that the new XSPC rads are rebranded HWLabs. Get some good fans like the GT AP-15 and nothing can touch them in performance. 1200RPM is pretty quiet to most people, and with AP-15's you basically get ~1100RPM to ~1850RPM, so you can have either nice and quiet or full on performance.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Call up FrozenCPU. I've heard they (or Performance-PCS) will work with you on shipping charges as items that small and light do not work very well with their automated shipping system. If you don't want tracking, I'm sure they can throw the vial in an envelope with a single stamp, and charge you $1 rather than $7 or whatever the site wants.


Thanks for the tip. That's one of the reason I didn't want to order it, the shipping would be more than the kill-coil! Thanks! +rep.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> FYI, GTX are 20FPI.
> http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=11
> The GTS is 30FPI.
> http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=27&Itemid=24
> With the 'average' radiator today, FPI is between 9(thermochill) and 14(swiftech) FPI. These rads you'll get decent performance with fans that operate between 1200 and 1400RPM. After that, the cooling scaling as airflow increases will be diminishing. That's why we see so many people switching off conventional rads to GTX/GTS style. I'm sure everyone noticed that the new XSPC rads are rebranded HWLabs. Get some good fans like the GT AP-15 and nothing can touch them in performance. 1200RPM is pretty quiet to most people, and with AP-15's you basically get ~1100RPM to ~1850RPM, so you can have either nice and quiet or full on performance.


Corrected,thanks.
I went off shop specs,serves me right for not checking.

The XSPC rads are not rebranded HWL as far as i am aware,XSPC and HWL dont share fabricators..i will check with Coolmiester,he works for them.
The beauty of low FPI rads is any fan works with them,rather than having to have a AP-15s or 29s on them.

Im am a fully paid up HWL fan and always have been.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Corrected,thanks.
> I went off shop specs,serves me right for not checking.
> The XSPC rads are not rebranded HWL as far as i am aware,XSPC and HWL dont share fabricators..i will check with Coolmiester,he works for them.
> The beauty of low FPI rads is any fan works with them,rather than having to have a AP-15s or 29s on them.
> Im am a fully paid up HWL fan and always have been.


New XSPC EX split fin rad:









Look familiar?









Blackice GTS:


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> New XSPC EX split fin rad:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look familiar?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blackice GTS:


look at the new XSPC X flows...


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> look at the new XSPC X flows...


I don't see any point to your post, other than to iterate your post count. They have the exact same fin design, which is very obviously HWLabs.

I guess I shouldn't be surprised, you've been on the forum for a shorter period of time than I have but have a postcount 2 orders of magnitude higher than mine...


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> look at the new XSPC X flows...
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see any point to your post, other than to iterate your post count. They have the exact same fin design, which is very obviously HWLabs.
> 
> I guess I shouldn't be surprised, you've been on the forum for a shorter period of time than I have but have a postcount 2 orders of magnitude higher than mine...
Click to expand...

Actually, his point was that the crossflow reservoirs they came out with mirror HWLabs as well

Perhaps your post count is two orders of magnitude lower because up until now you knew when to keep your mouth shut


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> look at the new XSPC X flows...
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see any point to your post, other than to iterate your post count. They have the exact same fin design, which is very obviously HWLabs.
> 
> I guess I shouldn't be surprised, you've been on the forum for a shorter period of time than I have but have a postcount 2 orders of magnitude higher than mine...
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> look at the new XSPC X flows...
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see any point to your post, other than to iterate your post count. They have the exact same fin design, which is very obviously HWLabs.
> 
> I guess I shouldn't be surprised, you've been on the forum for a shorter period of time than I have but have a postcount 2 orders of magnitude higher than mine...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Actually, his point was that the crossflow reservoirs they came out with mirror HWLabs as well
> 
> Perhaps your post count is two orders of magnitude lower because up until now you knew when to keep your mouth shut
Click to expand...

hehe this^^


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Actually, his point was that the crossflow reservoirs they came out with mirror HWLabs as well
> Perhaps your post count is two orders of magnitude lower because up until now you knew when to keep your mouth shut


So people need to repeat something I had already proven right? In the post right after I proved it?

And obviously you *had* to chime in with an post that's nothing other than an insult to iterate your own post count, amirite?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Actually, his point was that the crossflow reservoirs they came out with mirror HWLabs as well
> Perhaps your post count is two orders of magnitude lower because up until now you knew when to keep your mouth shut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So people need to repeat something I had already proven right? In the post right after I proved it?
> 
> And obviously you *had* to chime in with an post that's nothing other than an insult to iterate your own post count, amirite?
Click to expand...

Took me over 2 1/2 years, but I've finally found a second person on OCN to block. That lonely person who's been blocked by himself for 2 years will love some company.









EDIT: It just suddenly got quiet and awesome in here!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> New XSPC EX split fin rad:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look familiar?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blackice GTS:


That in itself does not mean HWL make the rads,going by you reasoning,EK,Phobya,Magicool,thermochill and the HWL SR are all made by the same people due to the zigzag nature of the fins..

Something more concrete is required.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Took me over 2 1/2 years, but I've finally found a second person on OCN to block. That lonely person who's been blocked by himself for 2 years will love some company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: It just suddenly got quiet and awesome in here!


You guys are the ones making frivolous and negative posts. [email protected] It won't be awesome and quiet until you shut your mouth.







Useless posters like you drag the community down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That in itself does not mean HWL make the rads,going by you reasoning,EK,Phobya,Magicool,thermochill and the HWL SR are all made by the same people due to the zigzag nature of the fins..
> Something more concrete is required.


And you need to do your research.

It's called HWLabs has the PATENT on that split fin design.

As in, nobody else has the right to make it.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> You guys are the ones making frivolous and negative posts. [email protected] It won't be awesome and quiet until you shut your mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Useless posters like you drag the community down.
> And you need to do your research.
> It's called HWLabs has the PATENT on that split fin design.
> As in, nobody else has the right to make it.


Dude, Useless posters? Youve made like 5 posts just complaining in the past 2 pages.

Get over it. And get thread at least somewhat back on topic. Got a problem with someone? Pm them. dont make a scene. No one really cares.


----------



## chino1974

Thank You and yes that is a drain at the bottom. I used a Black Danger Den Fill Port at the top back to fill and a red fill port at the bottom with a red monsoon compression fitting as a drain. I really like the look aof those Monsoons.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> You guys are the ones making frivolous and negative posts. [email protected] It won't be awesome and quiet until you shut your mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Useless posters like you drag the community down.
> And you need to do your research.
> It's called HWLabs has the PATENT on that split fin design.
> As in, nobody else has the right to make it.


Your arrogance is based on supposition and unproven facts.
Where is your research? Show me something other than 2 photos,show me in black and white,surely some rad reviewers have picked up on your discovery?

No?


----------



## Alatar

Cheering the place up with some pics


----------



## chino1974

Thank You very much Ceadderman. That means alot coming from a builder like yourself.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Dude, Useless posters? Youve made like 5 posts just complaining in the past 2 pages.
> Get over it. And get thread at least somewhat back on topic. Got a problem with someone? Pm them. dont make a scene. No one really cares.


So apparently discussing what vendor is manufacturing new watercooling parts is apparently off topic? And so is defending the conclusion with visual proof? Also, 5 posts in the last two pages? I don't have a single post on the last page, period.

You should have followed your own advice and PM'd me. But nope. You decided to be the most useless poster yet.

Bottom line is, hwlabs holds the patent for the split fin radiator design used in the XSPC EX rads.

It's obvious from visual inspection that the manufacturing process and end result is identical. All they did was slap a different case on the same core, and stamp XSPC on the side.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> So apparently discussing what vendor is manufacturing new watercooling parts is apparently off topic? And so is defending the conclusion with visual proof? Also, 5 posts in the last two pages? I don't have a single post on the last page, period.
> You should have followed your own advice and PM'd me. But nope. You decided to be the most useless poster yet.
> Bottom line is, hwlabs holds the patent for the split fin radiator design used in the XSPC EX rads.
> It's obvious from visual inspection that the manufacturing process and end result is identical. All they did was slap a different case on the same core, and stamp XSPC on the side.


Just wondering if your done crying about it yet.
You arent discussing. your picking fights, plain and simple.
Yes it was an exageration, and maybe you didnt have one on the LAST page. same point.
But how about you calm down meow. And things can go happily along ye?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> So apparently discussing what vendor is manufacturing new watercooling parts is apparently off topic? And so is defending the conclusion with visual proof? Also, 5 posts in the last two pages? I don't have a single post on the last page, period.
> You should have followed your own advice and PM'd me. But nope. You decided to be the most useless poster yet.
> Bottom line is, hwlabs holds the patent for the split fin radiator design used in the XSPC EX rads.
> It's obvious from visual inspection that the manufacturing process and end result is identical. All they did was slap a different case on the same core, and stamp XSPC on the side.


Show me where it say HWL patented that design?
Again,lots of supposition....

nothing to back it up.


----------



## jjpctech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Show me where it say HWL patented that design?
> Again,lots of supposition....
> nothing to back it up.


You sir are a Cheese Nugget of the highest order!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjpctech*
> 
> You sir are a Cheese Nugget of the highest order!


Thats it?
XD
Back under your rock and let the adults talk please.


----------



## jjpctech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats it?
> XD
> Back under your rock and let the adults talk please.


<3 you Neg, Tis me PD btw









A piccy to make the world happy with Wcing prone!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjpctech*
> 
> <3 you Neg, Tis me PD btw


You bugger.....


----------



## HowHardCanItBe

Okay guys, I am not the moderator in this section but put a stop to the pointless trivial arguments please...


----------



## jjpctech

Removed to stop a string of replies


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> So apparently discussing what vendor is manufacturing new watercooling parts is apparently off topic? And so is defending the conclusion with visual proof?


the post you attacked was equally off topic. all your posts are reported.

you will do well to watch what you say. I simply pointed out another similarity, you started flaming about it. so chill.


----------



## DaClownie

New idea for build... thanks Google Images for providing me with the lulz


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Uh, it's plastered all over the HWLabs site... Almost every page. They've even trademarked a name for the design "MaxFin."
> You're obviously trolling just to create discontent, and your post has now been reported.


XD
Oh please,you are making assumption after assumption.
Most rad patents are held by the fabricator,not the end vendor. Trademarking a name is not a patent btw.
Report all you like,I have not broken the TOS and,unlike your rantings,I try to adhere to the professionalism code required by this site.
You have done yourself no favours with your attitude...


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> New idea for build... thanks Google Images for providing me with the lulz











Id LOVE to see someone do that. xD

Althought might be a problem if anyone was using the tank


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> look at the new XSPC X flows...
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see any point to your post, other than to iterate your post count. They have the exact same fin design, which is very obviously HWLabs.
> 
> I guess I shouldn't be surprised, you've been on the forum for a shorter period of time than I have but have a postcount 2 orders of magnitude higher than mine...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Actually, his point was that the crossflow reservoirs they came out with mirror HWLabs as well
> 
> Perhaps "post count doesn't/shouldn't have anything to do with it."
Click to expand...

Fixed.

Now for my input, correct me if I'm wrong but neither company manufactures their own radiator right? Radiators have been out long enough where one style would blend over to another as the manufacturer gets a bead on what works the best?

I don't see where it matters unless someone is actively stealing from someone else and that someone else calls attention to it.









*Edit* Just noticed 5entinel stepped in. Apologies 5entinel.









I think people are suffering from Spring Fever an it's time to go outside for a bit. Personally I'ma walk down to tha Pub an have a couple Pints.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> look at the new XSPC X flows...
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see any point to your post, other than to iterate your post count. They have the exact same fin design, which is very obviously HWLabs.
> 
> I guess I shouldn't be surprised, you've been on the forum for a shorter period of time than I have but have a postcount 2 orders of magnitude higher than mine...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Actually, his point was that the crossflow reservoirs they came out with mirror HWLabs as well
> 
> Perhaps "post count doesn't/shouldn't have anything to do with it."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Fixed.
> 
> Now for my input, correct me if I'm wrong but neither company manufactures their own radiator right? Radiators have been out long enough where one style would blend over to another as the manufacturer gets a bead on what works the best?
> 
> I don't see where it matters unless someone is actively stealing from someone else and that someone else calls attention to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* Just noticed 5entinel stepped in. Apologies 5entinel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Why correct mine? I was using his words to get him back!

Sheesh Ceadder, if you weren't so nice, informative, helpful, dedicated, and all around decent, I'd report the crap out of you. Then, one of them big bad mod fellas would come in here and hit you over the head like whack a mole!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I use the Lite Red Pastel with some Red Dye in it. Looks great and cools all the same. I orderd some Gigabyte Orange Pastel for my other build. Its great looking stuff!
> Mayhem is working on some coolant called "X2". *Its like pastel but UV reactive*. Should be awesome when it comes out. Also he showed pictures of a Pastel coolant that is thermal!


So, like Mayhem's Pastel UV White?


----------



## phillyd

hahaha ^^


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> New idea for build... thanks Google Images for providing me with the lulz












lol, I'm hoping it's not being used as reservoir. eeeeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Fixed.
> Now for my input, correct me if I'm wrong but neither company manufactures their own radiator right? Radiators have been out long enough where one style would blend over to another as the manufacturer gets a bead on what works the best?
> I don't see where it matters unless someone is actively stealing from someone else and that someone else calls attention to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* Just noticed 5entinel stepped in. Apologies 5entinel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Having worked with Mayhem with testing of his rad design,this is pretty much as it is, as I understand it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> look at the new XSPC X flows...
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see any point to your post, other than to iterate your post count. They have the exact same fin design, which is very obviously HWLabs.
> 
> I guess I shouldn't be surprised, you've been on the forum for a shorter period of time than I have but have a postcount 2 orders of magnitude higher than mine...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Actually, his point was that the crossflow reservoirs they came out with mirror HWLabs as well
> 
> Perhaps "post count doesn't/shouldn't have anything to do with it."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Fixed.
> 
> Now for my input, correct me if I'm wrong but neither company manufactures their own radiator right? Radiators have been out long enough where one style would blend over to another as the manufacturer gets a bead on what works the best?
> 
> I don't see where it matters unless someone is actively stealing from someone else and that someone else calls attention to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* Just noticed 5entinel stepped in. Apologies 5entinel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why correct mine? I was using his words to get him back!
> 
> Sheesh Ceadder, if you weren't so nice, informative, helpful, dedicated, and all around decent, I'd report the crap out of you. Then, one of them big bad mod fellas would come in here and hit you over the head like whack a mole!
Click to expand...









lulz

*Poof* An like that he's gone.









~Ceadder


----------



## chino1974

Guys lets get back on track please. There's always going to be negative comments from negative people. Just ignore them and they usually go away Anyways hopefully I can help get peoples minds off of the petty stuff and on to other things. Can aanyone help me out finding a nice,good cheap waterblock for my XFX 6870? It's the first version with the blower fan if that matters. Any help would be greatly apreciated:thumb:

Oh and Ceadderman Thanks for the props earlier on the Monsoon fittings and drain set-up in my rig:thumb: I really have been learning alot the last few weeks I've been on here from all you guys.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Edit* Just noticed 5entinel stepped in. Apologies 5entinel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think people are suffering from Spring Fever an it's time to go outside for a bit. Personally I'ma walk down to tha Pub an have a couple Pints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah I messaged him. was gettin out of hand.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I'll just leave this here for you all to discuss and prepare your next builds for:


These couldn't come at a more perfect time. I was literally just two days away from giving up on Monsoon and ordering several of the Bitspower connectors to finish up my loop. I just hope I won't run into any tight space complications connecting my mobo and cpu blocks. But from what BoxGod (Monsoon) was saying, the size on these should clear anything. Now all I need to know is what kinds of finishes they will have... I'd prefer black chrome to match my other Monsoon fittings, but I'd settle for black angles, and get black chrome compression fittings.


----------



## phillyd

anyways guys, how would you like this for coolant?

I also finally got my unboxing vid up for PPCS, check it out on my build log.


----------



## solidshark91493

Pretty sure they said they will be in all the colors as the other monsoon's so that they will color blend nicely.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Fixed.
> Now for my input, correct me if I'm wrong but neither company manufactures their own radiator right? Radiators have been out long enough where one style would blend over to another as the manufacturer gets a bead on what works the best?
> I don't see where it matters unless someone is actively stealing from someone else and that someone else calls attention to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* Just noticed 5entinel stepped in. Apologies 5entinel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think people are suffering from Spring Fever an it's time to go outside for a bit. Personally I'ma walk down to tha Pub an have a couple Pints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


HWLabs does design AND manufacture their own radiators(in fact, I think radiator manufacturing is all hwlabs does at all).
HWLabs has their manufacturing plant in the Phillippines. If you google, or go to hardwarelabs.com you can verify this.

I can't speak for XSPC's earlier designs, but it's obvious with the EX designs where the cores came from.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> HWLabs does design AND manufacture their own radiators(in fact, I think radiator manufacturing is all hwlabs does at all).
> HWLabs has their manufacturing plant in the Phillippines. If you google, or go to hardwarelabs.com you can verify this.
> I can't speak for XSPC's earlier designs, but it's obvious with the EX designs where the cores came from.


Possible,but this is not a rebranding job like you previously stated. Design,maybe inspired would be closer,perhaps. HWL fabbed and rebranded? Almost certainly not.


----------



## phillyd

look at 80's cars, are they rebrands? no, but tons look alike.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> These couldn't come at a more perfect time. I was literally just two days away from giving up on Monsoon and ordering several of the Bitspower connectors to finish up my loop. I just hope I won't run into any tight space complications connecting my mobo and cpu blocks. But from what BoxGod (Monsoon) was saying, the size on these should clear anything. Now all I need to know is what kinds of finishes they will have... I'd prefer black chrome to match my other Monsoon fittings, but I'd settle for black angles, and get black chrome compression fittings.


He stated all currently available finishes will be carried over to the angles









Also, no one is going to ever agree with the opposing party, so move on. Everyone is right and everyone is wrong. Take it to PM if you want to argue over small things. All companies tend to overlap in design and function at some point, there's only so many ways you can make something.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> So, like Mayhem's Pastel UV White?


Yes but with color...


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

I'd like to get ur all's opinions on this. I'm doing an iron man themed mountain mods build and am planning to powdercoat the entire rig and the wc parts. Do you all think the rads should be powdercoated red or gold? the case red with gold accents or gold with red accents? Looks like the monsoon fittings have made it onto my list since the colors are practically just right.


----------



## TheJesus

Red with gold accents as that's how the suit is. The rads I'd go with gold on, but either way it can't look bad.

A cool idea would be making the CPU block have a shroud shaped like the arc reactor that he has as its central to Iron Man.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> I'd like to get ur all's opinions on this. I'm doing an iron man themed mountain mods build and am planning to powdercoat the entire rig and the wc parts. Do you all think the rads should be powdercoated red or gold? the case red with gold accents or gold with red accents? Looks like the monsoon fittings have made it onto my list since the colors are practically just right.



red with gold accents

make sure to include a big bluish white light (the triangle one would be the coolest) and the monsoon fittings are awesome!


----------



## Nano5656

dang thats a good idea ^


----------



## DaClownie

Case should be the red with the gold accent. The radiator should be the same, honestly. Think about how sexy that thing would be with all red exterior and the fins are gold... mmmm....


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Ill be using this rad grill to replicate the arc reactor. What color do u think I should get it powdercoated (white led fan behind it)


Hoping to make this the donor pc for all of my current rig's old parts once IB-E comes out, mainly the cpu and ram since I have 2 2011 mobos


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Ill be using this rad grill to replicate the arc reactor. What color do u think I should get it powdercoated (white led fan behind it)


you should find some really bright cold cathodes to put behind it, as for the color, im thinking get it copper plated


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Ill be using this rad grill to replicate the arc reactor. What color do u think I should get it powdercoated (white led fan behind it)


Baby/light blue would probably be closest to the movie style, but white would be closer to the comic.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you should find some really bright cold cathodes to put behind it, as for the color, im thinking get it copper plated


I was leaning towards copper or chrome powdercoat since it's a drive to get something plated for me and the powdercoating shop is only like 2 miles away. Copper powdercoat doesn't look too bad.



I only plan on having light behind that one grill so it stands out like the arc reactor. Hoping not to make pc "rice" since this will be a HTPC and I don't want it overly bright so to detract from watching movies.


----------



## wermad

Red with gold accents for sho!

For the rads: The housing red and the fins gold









I love the grill idea for the arc-reactor.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Red with gold accents for sho!
> For the rads: The housing red and the fins gold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the grill idea for the arc-reactor.


can the fins be powdercoated without damaging them?


----------



## TheJesus

Builds an Iron Man theme computer for his HTPC? I wish I had that kind of money


----------



## morencyam

As mentioned already, I think red case with gold accents and gold radiators would look killer. As for the arc reactor grill, maybe make that red too. Most of the pictures I'm seeing have red surrounding a light blue or white reactor glow. Although gold would still look cool there


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I do like an oversized fan guard...
Themed builds can be interesting,I await a build log.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Builds an Iron Man theme computer for his HTPC? I wish I had that kind of money


I already have the case minus like 3 clear acrylic panels to pick up so all I'll be out is around $100 for powdercoat and the cost of new fans, fittings, and sleeve from ftwpc. Total cost on top of what I have will probably run around $400, not including gpus for my new setup, which can't be released soon enough, so I can toss these in that build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> can the fins be powdercoated without damaging them?


hmm, interesting question...I would say yes but since its a super intricate and delicate area, I would just spray paint the fins and pc the housing. I'm sure you can pickup a rattle can of metallic hold and diy









Getting excited, we need a build log to horde around in!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> can the fins be powdercoated without damaging them?


Depending on the construction of the rad fins, a low temp powdercoat can be done,high temp powdercoat can melt the solder joining the fins to the core. Would not a stripped copper rad with painted sides be a better bet?
Why add another layer to damage performance?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Depending on the construction of the rad fins, a low temp powdercoat can be done,high temp powdercoat can melt the solder joining the fins to the core. Would not a stripped copper rad with painted sides be a better bet?
> Why add another layer to damage performance?


I already have the rads for it. Will be using 2x sr1 360, 1x 240, 1x 120, and a rx360. Performance isn't really an issue with this rig since it won't really be taxed except for some folding and I'm not looking to break records with it since the cooling will be insufficient running only a total of 12x120 rad area with ~1000 rpm fans and it will be getting hand-me-down parts from my current rig.

Also, 400mm helix res with yellow and red helix? or just a danger den rad res?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> I already have the rads for it. Will be using 2x sr1 360, 1x 240, 1x 120, and a rx360. Performance isn't really an issue with this rig since it won't really be taxed except for some folding and I'm not looking to break records with it since the cooling will be insufficient running only a total of 12x120 rad area with ~1000 rpm fans and it will be getting hand-me-down parts from my current rig.
> Also, 400mm helix res with yellow and red helix? or just a danger den rad res?


I'm only running 3 480s for a SR2 and 3 7970s,what kind of HTPC is this you are building??
Or are you going for passive?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm only running 3 480s for a SR2 and 3 7970s,what kind of HTPC is this you are building??
> Or are you going for passive?


Not going for passive. 480s put off too much heat for that. I accidentally forgot to turn my rads on in my DD build and even that got to a toasty 70C after like 30 minutes with 3x560, 2x 280, and a 140 rad and around 1.5gallons of water inside. The rig will be running a 3960X, RIVE (thanks to newegg accidentally sending me one for free







), 3x gtx480s, 64gb ddr3 (Hoping to move to faster dominators once released, but if not reasonably priced then 32gb gskill 1866), and 4x 1.5tb hdds. I at least want friends to be able to play games on it when they come over. Working on getting everything together and sorted for powdercoat right now.


----------



## crept1o

lol should get a massive aquarium tank and have tropical fish as the pc will warm the water hooked up to a full size house radiator in a chest frezzer see what happens


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crept1o*
> 
> lol should get a massive aquarium tank and have tropical fish as the pc will warm the water hooked up to a full size house radiator in a chest frezzer see what happens


If it would be reasonable to take to lans I would and by reasonably I mean possible at all lol. Size isn't an issue, but I make it a rule to have everything self contained within the case.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crept1o*
> 
> lol should get a massive aquarium tank and have tropical fish as the pc will warm the water hooked up to a full size house radiator in a chest frezzer see what happens


I can't even imagine the build up you'd get in the radiators and blocks. Not only that, but you'd be running salt water through the loop, and that can't be good for loop components


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Not going for passive. 480s put off too much heat for that. I accidentally forgot to turn my rads on in my DD build and even that got to a toasty 70C after like 30 minutes with 3x560, 2x 280, and a 140 rad and around 1.5gallons of water inside. The rig will be running a 3960X, RIVE (thanks to newegg accidentally sending me one for free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), 3x gtx480s, 64gb ddr3 (Hoping to move to faster dominators once released, but if not reasonably priced then 32gb gskill 1866), and 4x 1.5tb hdds. I at least want friends to be able to play games on it when they come over. Working on getting everything together and sorted for powdercoat right now.


Kinda streching the definition of HTPC ain't you? as in,its not a HTPC at all...XD
Either way,get some pics up sharpish.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Kinda streching the definition of HTPC ain't you? as in,its not a HTPC at all...XD
> Either way,get some pics up sharpish.


I suppose, but HTPC in my mind is a rig that I no longer use for productive things and one that isn't the fastest in the home. Will start build log as soon as I get the case completely disassembled and all of the pieces cleaned up. Hoping to get this done before D3 releases tonight.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I


Wait, so is there a 90 degree adapter and then the monsoon fitting on it? Or is this all one fitting? These are dope!

Also, I just read the last five pages (read:arguments), what a waste of my life


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Wait, so is there a 90 degree adapter and then the monsoon fitting on it? Or is this all one fitting? These are dope!*
> Also, I just read the last five pages (read:arguments), what a waste of my life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


in the same boat man I hardly ever block members but that was crazy page after page of bickering









I know I'm not helping but I thought i should be said.

I was always kinda meh with monsoon fittings but this new stuff is darn good imo


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Wait, *so is there a 90 degree adapter and then the monsoon fitting on it?* Or is this all one fitting? These are dope!
> Also, I just read the last five pages (read:arguments), what a waste of my life


Looks like a T-Block with a stop fitting on one side, Moonsoon on the other side and the middle has a couple of adapters (male/female G1/4) . I may be wrong.


----------



## jetjaguarxp

Hello folks.

I'm new and here is my build. Hope you like it!

Jet

IMG_20120514_145851.jpg 1275k .jpg file



IMG_20120514_145955.jpg 921k .jpg file



IMG_20120514_150012.jpg 1039k .jpg file



IMG_20120514_150031.jpg 1015k .jpg file



IMG_20120514_150055.jpg 1043k .jpg file



IMG_20120514_150142.jpg 1556k .jpg file



IMG_20120514_154213.jpg 1269k .jpg file


----------



## solidshark91493

Looks nice and clean! Awesome build!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetjaguarxp*
> 
> Hello folks.
> I'm new and here is my build. Hope you like it!
> Jet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20120514_145851.jpg 1275k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20120514_145955.jpg 921k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20120514_150012.jpg 1039k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20120514_150031.jpg 1015k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20120514_150055.jpg 1043k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20120514_150142.jpg 1556k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20120514_154213.jpg 1269k .jpg file


-If you get an aftermarket top, it will provide you with some extra pressure (ie performance) from the pump. Not crucial but it also gives you the opportunity to run different types of fittings and sizes.
-Use a few angled fittings to cut out excess tube.

Overall, great work


----------



## jetjaguarxp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> -If you get an aftermarket top, it will provide you with some extra pressure (ie performance) from the pump. Not crucial but it also gives you the opportunity to run different types of fittings and sizes.
> -Use a few angled fittings to cut out excess tube.
> Overall, great work


I want to get some 90 degree fittings but have to save up first. Bitspower 90s are a little pricey.


----------



## jetjaguarxp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Looks nice and clean! Awesome build!


Thanks!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetjaguarxp*
> 
> I want to get some 90 degree fittings but have to save up first. Bitspower 90s are a little pricey.


wait for the monsoons.

*The monsoon rotary fittings light up*


----------



## jetjaguarxp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> wait for the monsoons.
> *The monsoon rotary fittings light up*


Where does one find out about these Monsoon fittings?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetjaguarxp*
> 
> Hello folks.
> I'm new and here is my build. Hope you like it!
> Jet


jetjaguarxp, Like your setups.










MMMM...Just wondering how temps are you getting on this custom loop?


----------



## jetjaguarxp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> jetjaguarxp, Like your setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MMMM...Just wondering how temps are you getting on this custom loop?


CPU is at 36C just browsing the web, Mobo is 42C.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetjaguarxp*
> 
> I want to get some 90 degree fittings but have to save up first. Bitspower 90s are a little pricey.


Are you using 3/8x1/2 (9-10mm x 12-13mm) tube?

Phobya makes some good fittings in nickel and "black nickel". They are priced really good if money is tight. They also offer a few more larger sizes at competitive prices. The quality is not first class but its great enough and priced excellent


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetjaguarxp*
> 
> Where does one find out about these Monsoon fittings?


soon, young padawan

I email Gene quite often, its pretty great.


----------



## TheJesus

Clarification from Gene about the parts/colors.

_There are really three parts of the standard rotary. The main body, the compression fitting, and the color disk. Resellers will be selling the bodies in Chrome, Black Chrome, red, and matte black to start, and add the other body colors later. They will be stocking the color disks in all 10 finishes. The color disks are stamped from brass and finished with the same process as the compression fittings so they are an exact color match. They have a very aggressive adhesive pad on the back so you can select the body color you want, the disk color, and the compression fitting color for any combination you want. The compressions are threaded G1/4 so you can change colors for later builds, and the color disks are also sold separately for the same reason._


----------



## xNAPx

Work in progress...


----------



## prznar1

I bet that if i will not ask about it someone else will. Why you dont put rad inside?


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clarification from Gene about the parts/colors.
> _There are really three parts of the standard rotary. The main body, the compression fitting, and the color disk. Resellers will be selling the bodies in Chrome, Black Chrome, red, and matte black to start, and add the other body colors later. They will be stocking the color disks in all 10 finishes. The color disks are stamped from brass and finished with the same process as the compression fittings so they are an exact color match. They have a very aggressive adhesive pad on the back so you can select the body color you want, the disk color, and the compression fitting color for any combination you want. The compressions are threaded G1/4 so you can change colors for later builds, and the color disks are also sold separately for the same reason._


Thejesus? More like "TheGenius"


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Thejesus? More like "TheGenius"


I didn't make them, I'm just relaying the info


----------



## solidshark91493

I know. Haha. But still! more info!


----------



## 3lka

Final pictures


----------



## jetjaguarxp

Love the loops on the cables. I bet a sailor could tell us what kind of knots those are. lol


----------



## jetjaguarxp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> soon, young padawan
> I email Gene quite often, its pretty great.


I apologize for my ignorance but who is Gene?

jet


----------



## Dredknot

Updated my res


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetjaguarxp*
> 
> Love the loops on the cables. I bet a sailor could tell us what kind of knots those are. lol


I'm not a sailor, but that's what telecom technicians used to do with giant bundles of cable. Its called cable sewing I believe. I've seen it done even more crazily.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetjaguarxp*
> 
> I apologize for my ignorance but who is Gene?
> jet


Gene is BoxGods and owns Monsoon.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's been 20+ years since I was a Boy Scout and a Sailor but I believe those are a series of Half Hitches.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Here's the one I was thinking of:

Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La6LbgnZJco
Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anpOLg5e3HM&feature=relmfu


----------



## xNAPx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I bet that if i will not ask about it someone else will. Why you dont put rad inside?


because of efficiency


----------



## kcuestag

Hey guys,

The Mayhems Pastel seems to be out of stock, is it safe to use the Mayhems Aurora for 24/7 use or should I stick to something else like the Primochill coolant?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Here's the one I was thinking of:
> 
> Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La6LbgnZJco
> Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anpOLg5e3HM&feature=relmfu


Meh, that's pretty cool, but can be seriously overdone as he's doing in his tutorial. Looks nice but the point of sleeving isn't the uniformity(at least imho) but making the cables look like a piece of art inside the piece of art. With good cable management you won't see over 3/4 of the total cable inside your system. I'm not trying to talk anyone out of it, just sayin that if you decide to do something like this that you go with the less is more approach.









Know when those Monsoon Fittings are gonna be out and if they'll offer Red 90s' with black Compressions and Black inserts? Those would look really nice in my system even with the EK fittings I have.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> The Mayhems Pastel seems to be out of stock, is it safe to use the Mayhems Aurora for 24/7 use or should I stick to something else like the Primochill coolant?


Which color of Mayhem's Pastel are you looking for? Performance-PCs has blue berry, chocolate brown, gigabyte orange, grape red, light red, mint green, perfect pink, raspberry purple, sunset yellow, and uv white in stock.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Which color of Mayhem's Pastel are you looking for? Performance-PCs has blue berry, chocolate brown, gigabyte orange, grape red, light red, mint green, perfect pink, raspberry purple, sunset yellow, and uv white in stock.


The Blue Berry one, I refuse to order it from the US though, I need it for tomorrow.









I ended up ordering the Mayhems Aurora, it looks amazing but I do hope it is safe to use for at least a month.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Which color of Mayhem's Pastel are you looking for? Performance-PCs has blue berry, chocolate brown, gigabyte orange, grape red, light red, mint green, perfect pink, raspberry purple, sunset yellow, and uv white in stock.
> 
> 
> 
> The Blue Berry one, I refuse to order it from the US though, I need it for tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up ordering the Mayhems Aurora, it looks amazing but I do hope it is safe to use for at least a month.
Click to expand...

You're not askin for much are you.









I'm assuming you need it to be up for Chimp Challenge? Or is this for Glamour Shots?









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You're not askin for much are you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming you need it to be up for Chimp Challenge? Or is this for Glamour Shots?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Chimp Challenge that is.

Friends are telling me to cancel the Mayhems Aurora order as it is not recommended to use for 24/7 as it will be a huge mess in my loop, what would you guys do?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> The Mayhems Pastel seems to be out of stock, is it safe to use the Mayhems Aurora for 24/7 use or should I stick to something else like the Primochill coolant?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The Blue Berry one, I refuse to order it from the US though, I need it for tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up ordering the Mayhems Aurora, it looks amazing but I do hope it is safe to use for at least a month.


It is not for 24/7 usage. Mayhem told me is really only for like LAN parties and shows. You could message him on here and ask him if its ok to use for a month straight.


----------



## Aventadoor

Try premixed coolant?

Im going to get EK Blood red + Primochill Clear tubing. Hopefully it will not gunk up


----------



## kcuestag

I think I'll just go for blue tubing instead of transparent and stick to distilled water + biocide + anti-corro.


----------



## Aventadoor

Its safer to buy premixed clear coolant then using distilled water + any dangerous stuff!
Especially if you got EK nickel blocks


----------



## kcuestag

I don't have an EK nickel block mainly for that reason. Told the store to cancel the order and instead I ordered blue tubing, I'll stick to distilled water, biocide, and anti corro, makes me feel safer than using any coolant.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You're not askin for much are you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming you need it to be up for Chimp Challenge? Or is this for Glamour Shots?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chimp Challenge that is.
> 
> Friends are telling me to cancel the Mayhems Aurora order as it is not recommended to use for 24/7 as it will be a huge mess in my loop, what would you guys do?
Click to expand...

I would say EFF it and run Distilled. It's only gonna be 10 days and Distilled is quality coolant.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Biocide and corrosion inhibitors are far from being "dangerous stuff" in a water cooling loop. Premixed fluids provide worse temps and cost many times as much as distilled water and a couple additives.


----------



## kcuestag

Yeah I just ended up getting blue tubing, I will stick to distilled water and 1 drop of mayhems biocide, and 15ml of anti-corro fluid as I'm using right now.


----------



## Mayhem

you could have order direct or email us direct or even messaged me direct instead of asking on a forum. We have loads of stock lol.

Sorry but forums cannot give you answers all the time and thee is so much miss information it actually funny.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah I just ended up getting blue tubing, I will stick to distilled water and 1 drop of mayhems biocide, and 15ml of anti-corro fluid as I'm using right now.


Its for the best,i run distilled and a coil,nothing more.
The Aurora is not designed for 24/7 use,although Namron has left Aurora for over a month in a loop and it started fine with no visible sedimentation over this period.
Plus the loop has to be quite specifically designed with max flow in mind,too many compromises have to be made for best effect.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you could have order direct or email us direct or even messaged me direct instead of asking on a forum. We have loads of stock lol.
> Sorry but forums cannot give you answers all the time and thee is so much miss information it actually funny.


I do appreciate all the help you have given me via Private Messages. I just didn't feel safe using any coolant at all due to having to clean them later on every few months.

Never say never though, who knows if I end up with some Mayhems Pastel or Mayhems Aurora next month.


----------



## Jcyle

I'm loving this


----------



## rkwallace

Disregard, reposted elsewhere.


----------



## DrJns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I do appreciate all the help you have given me via Private Messages. I just didn't feel safe using any coolant at all due to having to clean them later on every few months.
> Never say never though, who knows if I end up with some Mayhems Pastel or Mayhems Aurora next month.


Good choice. Here's what it did to mine in seven days: link.

EDIT: On my post I blame it on the nickle plating, but further research showed it was the ice dragon cooling (i.e., mayhems pastels).


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJns*
> 
> Good choice. Here's what it did to mine in seven days: link.
> EDIT: On my post I blame it on the nickle plating, but further research showed it was the ice dragon cooling (i.e., mayhems pastels).


Interesting, thanks a lot.

I called Aquatuning and I will end up getting blue tubing instead, and I will just use distilled water with some biocide and anti-corro fluid.









You can have a look at my WC Loop log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1249660/build-log-first-time-building-a-custom-wc-loop

I should be recieving the 19/13 tubing/fittings on Thursday.


----------



## kcuestag

I have a question regarding the Phobya temperature reader:

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p7368_Phobya-Temperatursensor-Innen--Au-engewinde-G1-4-mit-Display--blau-.html

Anyone knows if it comes with a rubber o-ring? I plan on using it on the reservoir most probably but I don't want it to leak and I have no spare o-ring rubbers.


----------



## mm67

Don't know about that one but at least this one came with an O-ring : http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p7622_temperature-sensor-inner-outer-thread-G1-4---with-C-F-display.html


----------



## mordocai rp

Hey guys, what size sleeving do people use to sleeve their tubes? I saw a couple builds with em and i loved the look


----------



## kcuestag

Regarding the temperature sensor, would it be more reliable to set it on the reservoir with a screw plug closed or should I use it as a barb/fitting for the tubing?


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I have EK nickel blocks so I dont wanna use like distilled water + any sort of stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you use the mayhems with lets say Alphacool double protect clear liquid?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Its safer to buy premixed clear coolant then using distilled water + any dangerous stuff!
> Especially if you got EK nickel blocks


Premixed clear coolants are made of distilled water with anti- microbial/corrosion additives.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Regarding the temperature sensor, would it be more reliable to set it on the reservoir with a screw plug closed or should I use it as a barb/fitting for the tubing?


It should be more accurate when having water flowing over it constantly, it could get trapped water in the reservoir.


----------



## rkwallace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNAPx*
> 
> Work in progress...


Just a suggestion.

The smaller the loop the lest work on the pump. Also I probably would take the fans off the top of the case (since your water cooling and you have 2 other fans to circulate air inside of the case) and move the radiator inside the case.

Also, the radiator fans will move air outside the case replacing the top fans inside the case.

Just a suggestion so do your thing. Good luck on the build.

Robin


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rkwallace*
> 
> Just a suggestion.
> The smaller the loop the lest work on the pump. Also I probably would take the fans off the top of the case (since your water cooling and you have 2 other fans to circulate air inside of the case) and move the radiator inside the case.
> Also, the radiator fans will move air outside the case replacing the top fans inside the case.
> Just a suggestion so do your thing. Good luck on the build.
> Robin


Agreed, the HAF 932 is a great case for water cooling and can fit that rad easily inside the case.


----------



## ROG1

hai


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys quick question see if anyone would know if this is possible. I have a H50 that Dwood is sending me a bracket to install on my 6870. My question is would it be possible to take apart the tubing and add my own tubing so I can place it where I want so it will look cleaner and blend into the rest of my water cooling set-up? I would like to add black primochill tubing to match the rest of my system. And if it is possible what size does the H50 use for their fittings on the pump and radiator? What size i.d. tubing do I need?


----------



## chino1974

Another set of questions for you guys. I got a G5 power pc with a bad board so I'm stripping it out to use the case for a custom build for someone else. The one I have has the dual 2.7 cpu's and factory water cooler. The water cooler is made by Delphi. My question is would anyone know what type of pump that is? I looked up online and the most I found is that it was made for delphi by Laing. I have seen a bunch of pump on this thread that look exactly like it. I would like to find out the type of pump it is just to know so if it's any better than the one I'm using now in my rig I can swap the out. Or m,aybe use the pump and radiator in the build I'm doing with the G5 case. It's gonna be a sandy bridgecpu and board in the g5 case. I'm not sure yet if I'll be making it water cooled or not. But I'm leaning more towards yes to the water


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I have a question regarding the Phobya temperature reader:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p7368_Phobya-Temperatursensor-Innen--Au-engewinde-G1-4-mit-Display--blau-.html
> Anyone knows if it comes with a rubber o-ring? I plan on using it on the reservoir most probably but I don't want it to leak and I have no spare o-ring rubbers.


Always have extra rubbers on hand








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys quick question see if anyone would know if this is possible. I have a H50 that Dwood is sending me a bracket to install on my 6870. My question is would it be possible to take apart the tubing and add my own tubing so I can place it where I want so it will look cleaner and blend into the rest of my water cooling set-up? I would like to add black primochill tubing to match the rest of my system. And if it is possible what size does the H50 use for their fittings on the pump and radiator? What size i.d. tubing do I need?


Check this out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/647943/guide-h50-replace-tubes-and-res-mod/0_30

Should work with your swiftech res quite nicely


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Always have extra rubbers on hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check this out.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/647943/guide-h50-replace-tubes-and-res-mod/0_30
> Should work with your swiftech res quite nicely


I should definitely have more O-rings from other spare fittings I have around.


----------



## rkwallace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> hai guy... my new setup....hehe...plese fell free to comment...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> setup no 1
> 
> setup no 2
> 
> setup no 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wait for netx picture......


Where did you purchase that flow meter?


----------



## Fuganater

Dont quote pictures or use the spoiler tags...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



You lose.


----------



## asakurahao

Here is my finished STH10, hope you guys like it


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> Here is my finished STH10, hope you guys like it


Sexy


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> Hey guys, what size sleeving do people use to sleeve their tubes? I saw a couple builds with em and i loved the look


For 3/8" tubing you can use the SATA sleeving (3/8"). For 1/2" ID 3/4" OD you'll need 3/4" sleeving.

This is MDPC-X SATA sleeving.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> For 3/8" tubing you can use the SATA sleeving (3/8"). For 1/2" ID 3/4" OD you'll need 3/4" sleeving.
> This is MDPC-X SATA sleeving.


ok, my tubing is 3/8 inner 5/8 outer, will sata still work or no?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> ok, my tubing is 3/8 inner 5/8 outer, will sata still work or no?


5/8" is too big. You would need to go w/ a larger sleeving. The Jumbo sleeving MDPC-X sells (3/4" i think) can fit over 5/8" tubing and still be tight.


----------



## ilikebeer

Hi,

have a 690II case, can see my build log for pics. I would like to make the jump to water cooling because my silver arrow just won't stop making this weird noise...

For now it'd just be the cpu being cooled as the gtx680 isn't really worth water cooling for me because it has no voltage control, but in the future when i get a gtx 8xx i'd like to cool that too with water block. So I want to set it up so that the pump, resovouir and radiator etc are sufficient for cooling both cpu and gpu. I'm hoping a single loop system can be sufficient for this (so just one radiator).

What do I need?

At the moment i'm eyeing:

1) an xspc rx360 which i'd put 3 120mm sickle fans on (mounted outside my case ontop).
2) reservoir, the case doesn't have much space so i'd like a drive bay one.
3) swiftech mcp655 pump (don't know much about pumps).
4) some tubing (no idea what to get).
5) water block suitable for i5 2500k and hopefully re-usable with future cpu's that fit in the 1155 socket.

Please give advice if you can! Much appreciated.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's been 20+ years since I was a Boy Scout and a Sailor but I believe those are a series of Half Hitches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


if my memory is correct i believe you are right. its been quite a while since i was in scouts


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilikebeer*
> 
> At the moment i'm eyeing:
> 1) an xspc rx360 which i'd put 3 120mm sickle fans on (mounted outside my case ontop).


Why not keep everything internal? You can easily fit a 240mm rad up top and another down below... and even a 120 in back + a 140 up front (with light modding) if you wanted. I happen to prefer internal systems, you may not.


----------



## Hoodz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilikebeer*
> 
> Hi,
> have a 690II case, can see my build log for pics. I would like to make the jump to water cooling because my silver arrow just won't stop making this weird noise...
> For now it'd just be the cpu being cooled as the gtx680 isn't really worth water cooling for me because it has no voltage control, but in the future when i get a gtx 8xx i'd like to cool that too with water block. So I want to set it up so that the pump, resovouir and radiator etc are sufficient for cooling both cpu and gpu. I'm hoping a single loop system can be sufficient for this (so just one radiator).
> What do I need?
> At the moment i'm eyeing:
> 1) an xspc rx360 which i'd put 3 120mm sickle fans on (mounted outside my case ontop).
> 2) reservoir, the case doesn't have much space so i'd like a drive bay one.
> 3) swiftech mcp655 pump (don't know much about pumps).
> 4) some tubing (no idea what to get).
> 5) water block suitable for i5 2500k and hopefully re-usable with future cpu's that fit in the 1155 socket.
> Please give advice if you can! Much appreciated.


Why not just get a XSPC RS 240 fits perfectly in the case up the top or you could get a XSPC RX 240 kit and put it in the bottom of your case
heres a pic of what i am working on and it has both rx 240 and a rs 240

To get a rough idea what it looks like
How ever if you are going to put a RX240 down the bottom you have to make sure
your power supply is not bigger than 160mm or it wont fit


----------



## MOROZAW

Quote:


> For 3/8" tubing you can use the SATA sleeving (3/8"). For 1/2" ID 3/4" OD you'll need 3/4" sleeving.


Thanks for info. I have one question









Which fittings i must use? Fittings must be bigger?
I have 10mm/13mm tubes and 10mm/13mm fittings. I must use SATA sleeve and original fittings or bigger?

Thanks for reply.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hoodz*
> 
> Why not just get a XSPC RS 240 fits perfectly in the case up the top or you could get a XSPC RX 240 kit and put it in the bottom of your case
> heres a pic of what i am working on and it has both rx 240 and a rs 240[
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2353338/width/600/height/448]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> To get a rough idea what it looks like
> How ever if you are going to put a RX240 down the bottom you have to make sure
> your power supply is not bigger than 160mm or it wont fit


Nice setup! but you need to get rid of the junk HDD cage.. it will looks much better!


----------



## Ceadderman

Nite all.



























~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> hehe this^^


i dont come in for a day and i missed this dang
















the little red wagon





























































Phantom 410


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> Here is my finished STH10, hope you guys like it


Hey asakurahao did you do your own sleeving? I love it!!! That's the baisc idea I have in mind for my sleeving.


----------



## jojobis

hey guy the best pump for water cooling?


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojobis*
> 
> hey guy the best pump for water cooling?


d5 or ddc but it depends on what u want to cool realy u may not need a top end pump!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojobis*
> 
> hey guy the best pump for water cooling?


Whats your budget?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojobis*
> 
> hey guy the best pump for water cooling?


I have a Swiftech MCP-655D, very solid but all depends of your budget.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojobis*
> 
> hey guy the best pump for water cooling?


I'd take an MCP35X over anything these days. The PWM control gives it such a awesome feature, which no other pump currently has.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MOROZAW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For 3/8" tubing you can use the SATA sleeving (3/8"). For 1/2" ID 3/4" OD you'll need 3/4" sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for info. I have one question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which fittings i must use? Fittings must be bigger?
> I have 10mm/13mm tubes and 10mm/13mm fittings. I must use SATA sleeve and original fittings or bigger?
> Thanks for reply.
Click to expand...

Those fittings will be fine. But 13mm outer diameter tubing may be too big to get the SATA sleeve on it. I tried last night and couldn't do it. You may need to move to a larger tubing. Unfortunately black pretty much is your only choice of colour when you move to sleeving that large.


----------



## DaClownie

I personally like the D5... nice and quiet, doesn't generate heat. It's a bit bulky, but that's the price you pay. I had it running stock for about 8 months and it was perfect... now it's mounted in a XSPC Dual Bay Res simply for the reduction of hoses. Nice and quiet in there too.


----------



## crept1o

Hi, could someone help me out?

I just installed a 240 rad and where that connects it kept dribbling coolant on the outside of the pipe, when i first filled and turned it on so dapped it up turned it on again and it isnt doing it ... but i cant be sure it wont do it again later on.. any advice? it's the left pipe just below the plastic clamp it dribbled. that goes into the reservoir.)


had to have rad that way round as the 120rad is in the way on back of case if you wondered.

pump -> GPU -> 120rad -> 240 rad -> reservoir


----------



## kcuestag

Why didn't you use compression fittings? I don't trust those you used AT ALL.


----------



## crept1o

because i am a ******


----------



## skitzab1

just use 1/2' barbs with 7/16 hose no clamps no compression fitiings needed


----------



## crept1o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Why didn't you use compression fittings? I don't trust those you used AT ALL.


so the only option is to change to them i guess from your advice


----------



## audioholic

Obviously have a long way to go on this build..but this is inside an NZXT Vulcan.


----------



## crept1o

reckon a O-ring will stop it?


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crept1o*
> 
> reckon a O-ring will stop it?


2nd that


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crept1o*
> 
> reckon a O-ring will stop it?


So it is leaking between the rad and the barb/fitting and not through the tubing? If so yeah, you MUST use an O-ring with the fittings, they're great to prevent leaks.









I'm still a newbie at Watercooling, but from what I've heard and learned the O-rings are a must to be safe.


----------



## crept1o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> So it is leaking between the rad and the barb/fitting and not through the tubing? If so yeah, you MUST use an O-ring with the fittings, they're great to prevent leaks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still a newbie at Watercooling, but from what I've heard and learned the O-rings are a must to be safe.


it was hard to tell where it came from, but there was already o-ring like on the thread of the barb to the rad so must be the pipe holding on to the barb, i like put a o-ring in-between the pipe, think it has sorted it. (dunno if your meant to put a o-ring there but i have anyway lol

no.. it defintly leaks there will have to get a compression one then


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> just use 1/2' barbs with 7/16 hose no clamps no compression fitiings needed


+1


----------



## axipher

So you think your water-cooling rig is amazing don't you, well come prove it by helping joining the Chimp Challenge and fold for the cure for the next 10 days. Plenty of prizes to be won from OCN merchandise, to Steam games, to food 

http://www.overclock.net/t/1249457/official-chimp-challenge-2012-now-underway/0_50


----------



## crept1o

finally fixed it lol, turned out it was the actual pipe not being cut right, fits more tightly now.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crept1o*
> 
> finally fixed it lol, turned out it was the actual pipe not being cut right, fits more tightly now.


Glad you hear you got it fixed. If you want to continue using clamps, I would recommend:










OR


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crept1o*
> 
> Hi, could someone help me out?
> I just installed a 240 rad and where that connects it kept dribbling coolant on the outside of the pipe, when i first filled and turned it on so dapped it up turned it on again and it isnt doing it ... but i cant be sure it wont do it again later on.. any advice? it's the left pipe just below the plastic clamp it dribbled. that goes into the reservoir.)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had to have rad that way round as the 120rad is in the way on back of case if you wondered.
> pump -> GPU -> 120rad -> 240 rad -> reservoir


pump -> 240 rad -> GPU -> 120rad -> reservoir if I were you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crept1o*
> 
> because i am a ******


oUCH! You pick up the Stainless Steel Hose Clamp from Local hardware shop as Lowes, HomeDepot, Ace.. G'luck!


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> pump -> 240 rad -> GPU -> 120rad -> reservoir if I were you.
> oUCH! You pick up the Stainless Steel Hose Clamp from Local hardware shop as Lowes, HomeDepot, Ace.. G'luck!


the plastic clamps are fine u just clamp on the barb not behind it.

clamp the hose on the thick part of the barb


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> just use 1/2' barbs with 7/16 hose no clamps no compression fitiings needed


This ^^


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> just use 1/2' barbs with 7/16 hose no clamps no compression fitiings needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This ^^
Click to expand...

I 4th this.









But... if you get a good set of barbs you can run 1/2" tubing completely clampless. I've got a couple BP barbs in my build at a critical flow point(MB to CPU) and don't have clamp one on them.

This is the kind of barb you want...



you don't want to trust this type...



See the barbs on the tube of the first one? They help seal and keep the tubing from popping off. They can be a pain in the tuchus to remove from the tubing but they're well worth it. My PrimoChill LRT is tight enough from the very beginning that I don't need to get a smaller inner bore tubing to make it work. It just does.









~Ceadder


----------



## crept1o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Glad you hear you got it fixed. If you want to continue using clamps, I would recommend:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR


those plastic clamps are a right pain in the fingers! think i will go with those at some point


----------



## crept1o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> pump -> 240 rad -> GPU -> 120rad -> reservoir if I were you.
> /quote]
> 
> just done that set up like you said


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Maple syrup candies from Dazmode > gummy bears


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> First of all, those fittings look really good. I think I'll be looking for some of those when I do my folding rig. Also, that drain port (I'm assuming) is brilliant


The VGA Link looks like koolance and the fittings looks like Bitspower without logo - ( maybe Rebranded ) fitting's but it still looks good.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crept1o*
> 
> because i am a ******


you must lower the tube and the clamp that's why you have a leaking there

Red Line = Tubing
Yellow Line = Clamps

Clamps must be below the top wide ring in the fitting.

Red Line = Tubing
Yellow Line = Clamps
Blu = Wide Ring = looks like your clamp if half and half below the neck
if the tube has a dried in in the fitting just cut 1/2 of it and clamp again. the clamp you are using is good
and keep in mind if you use 1/2 Barbs with clamps you must choice the right tube even without clamps
1/2 Barbs = 7/16 tubing with or without barbs or even with compression fittings i always used 1/2 fittings with 7/16 tubing and i never had any linking in any those tree options i mentioned couples lines up.^^



Red Line = Tubing
Yellow Line = Clamps
Blue Line = Wide Ring = looks like your clamp if half and half below the neck


----------



## crept1o

thanks for the help everyone









seriously need a bigger case cant even fit any fans on this radiator unless i have it on the outside top of case.

know this is offtopic but my psu when shutting pc down makes a lot of clonking noise guessing the fan has had it you think


----------



## wermad

Only update at the moment


----------



## derickwm

That's some nice eye candy


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's some nice eye candy


Their quad bridge isn't coming out for another month or so. I just went ahead and got two dual bridges. I had a couple of Koolance sli adjustable fittings that I spray painted some satin black paint on.

I'm pissed right since fedex couldn't leave my gpu blocks at my front door (they did left my gpu(s) though). Guess Ill have to catch the Fedex guy tomorrow morning. I don't like how frozencpu setups signature release on some packages
















New case should arrive tomorrow


----------



## derickwm

I feel ya, shipping companies are going to be the death of my insanity. On Monday USPS claimed they tried to deliver a package on Friday (they never left a pink slip or anything) then told me the Monday delivery was my final call. I wasn't able to go to the post office on Tuesday because of how my schedule is and when I tried to make a new delivery that night they told me they have already shipped it back to the sender... -_____-


----------



## TheJesus

I've been using clamps for a long time, never had an issue and spent half on fittings compared to compressions


----------



## Ceadderman

@skyn3t... I'm reasonably sure those angle fittings are EK fittings.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Only update at the moment


That looks awesome bruh. I didn't think of KL vga fittings to connect up a couple of duals. Nice work.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I've been using clamps for a long time, never had an issue and spent half on fittings compared to compressions


They may be a bit more spendy but I have to say that I think Comps just look cleaner in most cases. Some people can't cut a clean line so Comps are a nice alternative. I cut a straight line but I never can get the same cut twice and always have an angle cut due to the natural bend in the tubing. Next time I'ma take the tubing out on the balcony and secure it to the support post and let the sun do the work for me to straighten it.









~Ceadder


----------



## xNAPx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rkwallace*
> 
> Just a suggestion.
> The smaller the loop the lest work on the pump. Also I probably would take the fans off the top of the case (since your water cooling and you have 2 other fans to circulate air inside of the case) and move the radiator inside the case.
> Also, the radiator fans will move air outside the case replacing the top fans inside the case.
> Just a suggestion so do your thing. Good luck on the build.
> Robin


i did this because i read that the radiator performs more efficient when it's installed out of the case


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I feel ya, shipping companies are going to be the death of my insanity. On Monday USPS claimed they tried to deliver a package on Friday (they never left a pink slip or anything) then told me the Monday delivery was my final call. I wasn't able to go to the post office on Tuesday because of how my schedule is and when I tried to make a new delivery that night they told me they have already shipped it back to the sender... -_____-


Tbh, its frozencpu's fault. I know its got four blocks but I really would just want them to release it and leave it there. Fedex has an obscured delivery times in my neighborhood. They aren't as consistent as usps and ups.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @skyn3t... I'm reasonably sure those angle fittings are EK fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks awesome bruh. I didn't think of KL vga fittings to connect up a couple of duals. Nice work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm not too confident in the Koolance fittings as I used them once and they leaked a bit. I might not have adjusted the fittings properly since there's three parts to it. I'll test them once the blocks arrive tomorrow









Here are my gpus awaiting the HK blocks to arrive:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rkwallace*
> 
> Just a suggestion.
> The smaller the loop the lest work on the pump. Also I probably would take the fans off the top of the case (since your water cooling and you have 2 other fans to circulate air inside of the case) and move the radiator inside the case.
> Also, the radiator fans will move air outside the case replacing the top fans inside the case.
> Just a suggestion so do your thing. Good luck on the build.
> Robin
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, the HAF 932 is a great case for water cooling and can fit that rad easily inside the case.
Click to expand...

That's not a 932. Or were u suggesting case change.









I think the only problem I might have with that setup is the fans in the top. Other'n that it is pretty reasonable. I'm sure the tubing could stand to lose a little length as well though.









~Ceadder


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 5/8" is too big. You would need to go w/ a larger sleeving. The Jumbo sleeving MDPC-X sells (3/4" i think) can fit over 5/8" tubing and still be tight.


know anywhere else i get it?


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So you think your water-cooling rig is amazing don't you, well come prove it by helping joining the Chimp Challenge and fold for the cure for the next 10 days. Plenty of prizes to be won from OCN merchandise, to Steam games, to food
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1249457/official-chimp-challenge-2012-now-underway/0_50


already there man


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Their quad bridge isn't coming out for another month or so. I just went ahead and got two dual bridges. I had a couple of Koolance sli adjustable fittings that I spray painted some satin black paint on.
> I'm pissed right since fedex couldn't leave my gpu blocks at my front door (they did left my gpu(s) though). Guess Ill have to catch the Fedex guy tomorrow morning. I don't like how frozencpu setups signature release on some packages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New case should arrive tomorrow


You should be thanking anyone who requires a signature for delivery, it's a win, win for both shipper and customer! Imagine if it was left at your doorstep and someone comes along and says, nice package...

I always request that everything be shipped to my house with, "Signature For Delivery"! Protects you from an even worst nightmare just waiting to happen.


----------



## mxthunder

updated pics of my rig. If I only knew how to use my $700 camera.
Let me know what you think


----------



## SimpleTech

Nikon D3100 I presume?









Looks good. Try using a tri-pod as your pictures are coming out a little shaky.


----------



## derickwm

Tripod. ISO 100. F5.6-F11 (More open for up close/micro shots). Calculate shutter speed by having the meter be slightly over exposed.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I 4th this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But... if you get a good set of barbs you can run 1/2" tubing completely clampless. I've got a couple BP barbs in my build at a critical flow point(MB to CPU) and don't have clamp one on them.
> This is the kind of barb you want...
> 
> you don't want to trust this type...
> 
> See the barbs on the tube of the first one? They help seal and keep the tubing from popping off. They can be a pain in the tuchus to remove from the tubing but they're well worth it. My PrimoChill LRT is tight enough from the very beginning that I don't need to get a smaller inner bore tubing to make it work. It just does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


spot on


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tbh, its frozencpu's fault. I know its got four blocks but I really would just want them to release it and leave it there. Fedex has an obscured delivery times in my neighborhood. They aren't as consistent as usps and ups.
> I'm not too confident in the Koolance fittings as I used them once and they leaked a bit. I might not have adjusted the fittings properly since there's three parts to it. I'll test them once the blocks arrive tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my gpus awaiting the HK blocks to arrive:


those are some sexy GPUS man


----------



## ROG1

mm


----------



## TheJesus

Here's the other rotary from Monsoon:

_Yes the other version has Light Ports that let you install several different types of plugs. An LED plug that has super bright 15 degree LED's that make your tube glow sort of like a fiber optic cable or neon tube. A temp probe plug. A shorty version of the silver bullets, and of course our standard Monsoon plug. The plugs are available in all 10 Monsoon colors. The Light Port Rotaries will sell for a buck or two more depending on where resellers price them.

Actually the LED plugs don't come in the two color form shown below, but you get the idea._


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Here's the other rotary from Monsoon:
> _Yes the other version has Light Ports that let you install several different types of plugs. An LED plug that has super bright 15 degree LED's that make your tube glow sort of like a fiber optic cable or neon tube. A temp probe plug. A shorty version of the silver bullets, and of course our standard Monsoon plug. The plugs are available in all 10 Monsoon colors. The Light Port Rotaries will sell for a buck or two more depending on where resellers price them.
> Actually the LED plugs don't come in the two color form shown below, but you get the idea._


WOOOOOOOO








Awesome


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Here's the other rotary from Monsoon:
> _Yes the other version has Light Ports that let you install several different types of plugs. An LED plug that has super bright 15 degree LED's that make your tube glow sort of like a fiber optic cable or neon tube. A temp probe plug. A shorty version of the silver bullets, and of course our standard Monsoon plug. The plugs are available in all 10 Monsoon colors. The Light Port Rotaries will sell for a buck or two more depending on where resellers price them.
> Actually the LED plugs don't come in the two color form shown below, but you get the idea._


shoud do a quick disconnect that looks like the other angel fitting where u push the red bit on the top and it disconnects the compretion fitting


----------



## jojobis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> hai guy more and new picture.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all loop and cable management done...


Wow....nice job and look very nice....






















what pump u use....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Here's the other rotary from Monsoon:
> 
> _Yes the other version has Light Ports that let you install several different types of plugs. An LED plug that has super bright 15 degree LED's that make your tube glow sort of like a fiber optic cable or neon tube. A temp probe plug. A shorty version of the silver bullets, and of course our standard Monsoon plug. The plugs are available in all 10 Monsoon colors. The Light Port Rotaries will sell for a buck or two more depending on where resellers price them.
> 
> *Actually the LED plugs don't come in the two color form shown below, but you get the idea*._
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They should cause that is a gorgeous piece of hardware. Would love to add a couple to my loop. I could stick some UV LEDs' in em with the white tubing...









~Ceadder


----------



## chino1974

I am so in love with the monsoon fittings!!! I just got a set to try out in my build and I loved how they just went together no issues no leaks first time done. I'm definitely switching my whole settup to monsoon as soon as the budget allows it:thumb: Andd the last two new fittings you've shown are the perfect color match for my build black and red no need to change it at all.


----------



## driftingforlife

Dam people quoting pics every time










Also wermad, I now those 560's are the 448 one's but did they enable 4-way SLI in the drivers for them?, I know they did for the 470's which is almost the same card.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I feel ya, shipping companies are going to be the death of my insanity. On Monday USPS claimed they tried to deliver a package on Friday (they never left a pink slip or anything) then told me the Monday delivery was my final call. I wasn't able to go to the post office on Tuesday because of how my schedule is and when I tried to make a new delivery that night they told me they have already shipped it back to the sender... -_____-
> 
> 
> 
> Tbh, its frozencpu's fault. I know its got four blocks but I really would just want them to release it and leave it there. Fedex has an obscured delivery times in my neighborhood. They aren't as consistent as usps and ups.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @skyn3t... I'm reasonably sure those angle fittings are EK fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks awesome bruh. I didn't think of KL vga fittings to connect up a couple of duals. Nice work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm not too confident in the Koolance fittings as I used them once and they leaked a bit. I might not have adjusted the fittings properly since there's three parts to it. I'll test them once the blocks arrive tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my gpus awaiting the HK blocks to arrive:
Click to expand...

You know you're an addict to water cooling when you have a plastic pill errrr.... fitting separator.









werm try orientating them by direction of flow. The tube side being your flow pushing water into the funnel side. See how that works for you.









~Ceadder


----------



## jojobis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Dam people quoting pics every time


DAM U.







if u dont like people quoting pics make ur own thread...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojobis*
> 
> DAM U.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if u dont like people quoting pics make ur own thread...


doesnt work that way...
its general courtesy to not quote more than 1 pic.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> hai guy more and new picture.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all loop and cable management done...


1st - please use the spoiler tags.

2nd - Where are the tubes going when they go out the back of your PC? Do you have an external Rad stand?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 1st - please use the spoiler tags.


thats posting things originally, not quoting pics
you dnt need to spoiler everything


----------



## Bouf0010

I feel like the pictures load and use bandwidth anyways even if they are in spoiler tags... Cause i can kinda see the pictures appear one or two at a time if theres lots of them without tags, but they appear instantly with the spoiler tag - like theyve already been loaded.


----------



## phillyd

im sorry for your unfortunate bandwidth


----------



## ROG1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojobis*
> 
> Wow....nice job and look very nice....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what pump u use....


thanks duke








i use swiftech mcp355 pump


----------



## ROG1

mmm


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> I feel like the pictures load and use bandwidth anyways even if they are in spoiler tags... Cause i can kinda see the pictures appear one or two at a time if theres lots of them without tags, but they appear instantly with the spoiler tag - like theyve already been loaded.


It's not about bandwidth (at least not for me) -- I just hate having to scroll through a crapton of pictures that I've already seen just so I see someone say "nice job dude, looks good".


----------



## moa.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*




Why, why, why expose it like that instead of hiding it somewhere under the table


----------



## ROG1

haha i like







the system loop only.....


----------



## sate200




----------



## ROG1

best loop sate200

haha i like someting like this... huhu so sweet


----------



## Fuganater

@Sate200 - How do you like the Phobya stand?


----------



## mordocai rp

Hey guys, I hate using clamps and have 1/2" barbs already(not looking to replace with compressions or smaller barbs) and was wondering how hard it was to get 3/8 tubing onto it. I'm trying to find one w/ an OD of 1/2" or smaller, currently i have 7/17id and 5/8od. Unless 1/2 sleeving would fit upon 5/8od tubing i have to replace it


----------



## Willhemmens

Just whack a couple zip ties over each barb, they'l hold fine.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> You should be thanking anyone who requires a signature for delivery, it's a win, win for both shipper and customer! Imagine if it was left at your doorstep and someone comes along and says, nice package...
> I always request that everything be shipped to my house with, "Signature For Delivery"! Protects you from an even worst nightmare just waiting to happen.


I know, but it sucks since FedEx has an oddball delivery time frame in my area. Luckily, i got up early and caught the guy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Dam people quoting pics every time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also wermad, I now those 560's are the 448 one's but did they enable 4-way SLI in the drivers for them?, I know they did for the 470's which is almost the same card.


Sadly, 4-way is not possible unless I use a custom driver. Still one of the cards is having issues so I might just end up with tri-sli








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You know you're an addict to water cooling when you have a plastic pill errrr.... fitting separator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> werm try orientating them by direction of flow. The tube side being your flow pushing water into the funnel side. See how that works for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










Stuff came in today but changes are already happening, again


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> Hey guys, I hate using clamps and have 1/2" barbs already(not looking to replace with compressions or smaller barbs) and was wondering how hard it was to get 3/8 tubing onto it. I'm trying to find one w/ an OD of 1/2" or smaller, currently i have 7/17id and 5/8od. Unless 1/2 sleeving would fit upon 5/8od tubing i have to replace it


If you are going to sleeve your tubing you really will need to use compressions to make it look clean on the ends. You could try heatshrink but I don't think it will look as good.


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> @Sate200 - How do you like the Phobya stand?


I'm really liking it, very functional, I'm with a good performance with 3 rads, in IDLE 25 ° C and 38 ° C in benchmarks!


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> best loop sate200
> haha i like someting like this... huhu so sweet


THANKS MAN!!! YOUR RIG ALSO TOP!!!


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you are going to sleeve your tubing you really will need to use compressions to make it look clean on the ends. You could try heatshrink but I don't think it will look as good.


i can use these clamps http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_953_955&products_id=30169 if i do use sleeving . I just don't want to rebuy a new set of fittings. but will the 1/2 fit over 5/8 or no? this is the sleeving id be using http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29588


----------



## solara2xb

Here are some pics from my Intel / Case Labs Build.

Build Log here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247670/intel-x79-build-royale-burple/10#post_17261557


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Here's the other rotary from Monsoon:
> _Yes the other version has Light Ports that let you install several different types of plugs. An LED plug that has super bright 15 degree LED's that make your tube glow sort of like a fiber optic cable or neon tube. A temp probe plug. A shorty version of the silver bullets, and of course our standard Monsoon plug. The plugs are available in all 10 Monsoon colors. The Light Port Rotaries will sell for a buck or two more depending on where resellers price them.
> Actually the LED plugs don't come in the two color form shown below, but you get the idea._


I am so looking forward to these hitting retail shelves right about now. Ideally, I'd like to get started on bleeding and leak testing my loop before the end of this month.


----------



## Fuganater

@sate200 - Cool. I was going to buy one but decided to make my own from plexi. Hopefully I can finish it soon. If it doesn't turn out, I may buy one.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Just whack a couple zip ties over each barb, they'l hold fine.


This^^


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow it got seasonably cool all of a sudden. Hadda throw some sweat pants on and shut the slider halfway. 18.333c house temp. System is running 38c under full load. Says 16c on the desktop weather gadget.









~Ceadder


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow it got seasonably cool all of a sudden. Hadda throw some sweat pants on and shut the slider halfway. 18.333c house temp. System is running 38c under full load. Says 16c on the desktop weather gadget.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I wish I could say the same. It's suppose to get a little hotter in CO and then slightly cool and then hot again.



My basement averages 72°F during the spring/summer while my bedroom is 88°F.


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I wish I could say the same. It's suppose to get a little hotter in CO and then slightly cool and then hot again.
> 
> My basement averages 72°F during the spring/summer while my bedroom is 88°F.


AC MAN! AC!!!!

I keep my house at 74F during the day and 72F at night. I hate being hot and I hate having my PC suffer....


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> AC MAN! AC!!!!
> I keep my house at 74F during the day and 72F at night. I hate being hot and I hate having my PC suffer....


Unfortunately I don't have one.









But it does feel nice to save a few dollars without it though.







Plus I heard sweating is good for you.


----------



## trendy

I'd start a fund on here to buy you a window AC unit, but you'd probably turn it into something silly... like a phase change unit.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> I'd start a fund on here to buy you a window AC unit, but you'd probably turn it into something silly... like a phase change unit.


I would too.


----------



## Farih

Guys i need a switch to be able to switch between my daytime light [white fan leds] and my nighttime light [UV CCFL]
Looking for a switch that does one or the other, the fan leds or the CCFL.
Also i have all pci slots in use allready so it needs to go in the 5.25 bay or somewhere in the case.
If needed or if its better looking 2 switches may be used for this to.

Any switch/panel you guys could recommend ?
Any other idea is welcome to offcourse









Here is daylights [light from fan leds] [older picture but still same]



Here are the nightlights [UV CCFL]




Thanks in advance


----------



## Ceadderman

@farih...

I know you're in the Netherregions bro, but look round for this... Mod/Smart Black Box Professional Stackable CCFL Inverter - Dual Lamp

You would need a couple of them but you can power one through the other and switch between the to with a couple toggles.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

A lot of stuff came in today. Its like Christmas in July....wait....what month are we in









Sadly, I'm down to three cards but I'm sure this will be fine









Pics up tonight. New case came in too


----------



## wipwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A lot of stuff came in today. Its like Christmas in July....wait....what month are we in


Christmas in May.


----------



## derickwm

It's Christmas every month for some of us


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's Christmas every month for some of us


Wait...









Christmas is over? When did that happen.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> shoud do a quick disconnect that looks like the other angel fitting where u push the red bit on the top and it disconnects the compretion fitting


Well, actually.... Gene has plans for quick disconnects that will be either higher flow or smaller footprint than the Koolances (not sure which he decided on). Just another thing to look forward to


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Well, actually.... Gene has plans for quick disconnects that will be either higher flow or smaller footprint than the Koolances (not sure which he decided on). Just another thing to look forward to


I definitely would like to see smaller sized qdc. The pneumatic ones are nice but they seem too restrictive and the Koolance one's are a tad bit too large and heavy (especially the compression type ones).


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Here's the other rotary from Monsoon:
> _Yes the other version has Light Ports that let you install several different types of plugs. An LED plug that has super bright 15 degree LED's that make your tube glow sort of like a fiber optic cable or neon tube. A temp probe plug. A shorty version of the silver bullets, and of course our standard Monsoon plug. The plugs are available in all 10 Monsoon colors. The Light Port Rotaries will sell for a buck or two more depending on where resellers price them.
> Actually the LED plugs don't come in the two color form shown below, but you get the idea._


This ^^, where did you find this. I cant even find a website for monsoon....


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> This ^^, where did you find this. I cant even find a website for monsoon....


XtremeSystems.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got 2.5 ltrs of Mayhems Thermodynamic coolant coming for test from Mayhem.
Due to NDA,i cant put pics up yet...which is a shame....he should be lifting it soon tho.

Now to change all the tubing on my bench to clear....


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Well, actually.... Gene has plans for quick disconnects that will be either higher flow or smaller footprint than the Koolances (not sure which he decided on). Just another thing to look forward to


giggedy!!


----------



## superericla

Now I just need the FrozenQ reservoir I ordered to show up...


----------



## xNAPx

not beautiful like some work of yours but ...


----------



## prznar1

still looks nice. case is one of those huge enermax cases?


----------



## xNAPx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> still looks nice. case is one of those huge enermax cases?


It's Aerocool Strike X Super Tower case


----------



## Ceadderman

Well cause I am ...


Spoiler: Feelin Groovy...































...and I like to hear some feedback.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well cause I am ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Feelin Groovy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and I like to hear some feedback.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I hope you'll find a better camera for the final shots


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well cause I am ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Feelin Groovy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and I like to hear some feedback.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you'll find a better camera for the final shots
Click to expand...

My webbie is sad you don't like his shots.









He does pretty well all things considered. I've gotten some pretty detailed pics with this webcam. Yeah I know it's not a DSLR but it does better than could reasonably be expected from a webbie.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

This is my first water cooling build, just added the Yate Loons on the radiator. Got a different effect than what I was hoping. Live and learn. The fluid is the EK UV Blue and I was hoping that would stand out a little. At some point I think I may change to colored tubing and I definitely want some better fittings/clamps than supplied with the XSPC kit.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> This is my first water cooling build, just added the Yate Loons on the radiator. Got a different effect than what I was hoping. Live and learn. The fluid is the EK UV Blue and I was hoping that would stand out a little. At some point I think I may change to colored tubing and I definitely want some better fittings/clamps than supplied with the XSPC kit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not dark enough? Paint the inside of your case Black or a dark color. That'll darken things up considerably. If it's something else maybe one of us can help you?









I'm thinking that shiny metal is making the LEDs' brighter than you were hoping for though.









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNAPx*
> 
> not beautiful like some work of yours but ...


just put a tall cylinder res in









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well cause I am ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Feelin Groovy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and I like to hear some feedback.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


daylight shots plz







but nice in the red !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I hope you'll find a better camera for the final shots


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> This is my first water cooling build, just added the Yate Loons on the radiator. Got a different effect than what I was hoping. Live and learn. The fluid is the EK UV Blue and I was hoping that would stand out a little. At some point I think I may change to colored tubing and I definitely want some better fittings/clamps than supplied with the XSPC kit.


get some black lights uv led or cathodes







fix


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> This ^^, where did you find this. I cant even find a website for monsoon....


the website will be monsooncooling.com when its up!


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well cause I am ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Feelin Groovy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and I like to hear some feedback.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Beautiful!!! Your the man brother.When I grow up I wanna be like you


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's Christmas every month for some of us


Christmas is every day in your house? Can I move in with you? I promise I'll do my chores and wont take up much room. Just throw me your old x-mas gifts. lol! I wish.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well cause I am ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Feelin Groovy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and I like to hear some feedback.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You did a pretty good job on watercooling, now you need to learn photography.









I haven't seen a clear shot of your rig since you put it under water.


----------



## xNAPx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> just put a tall cylinder res in


In the future why not


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNAPx*
> 
> In the future why not


thats it one thing at a time







or go for broke haha


----------



## mr.derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then its not stainless steel,the non rusting is the defining charactaristic of stainless. Why do you think watercool hk's and ek blocks have stainless jet plates?
> I have spent over 20 years In machine shops,I know metals...
> So yeah,I will keep thinking that...


It's stain*less* not stain*proof*. Any knife aficionado can tell you stainless rusts. Especially those lower on the chromium scale tend to rust almost as easy as carbon steel near the chromium threshold of being a stainless steel. I know aus8, 154CM, and 8cr13MoV rust relatively easy within hours because of personal experience with them rusting due to constant exposure to moisture.


----------



## PCModderMike

Thought I was done, but of course always finding something to change...guess you could call this revision 3.0











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MaDeuce50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thought I was done, but of course always finding something to change...guess you could call this revision 3.0


Nice! one of my favorite builds on this board. Your setup is the reason why I decided to watercool my switch. I blame you for me spending almost $700


----------



## prznar1

Anyone knows how i could securly mount rad in 5.25 bays in CM590? My radiator is some old Thermochill 360.

This thing is troubling me for some time now.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Anyone knows how i could securly mount rad in 5.25 bays in CM590? My radiator is some old Thermochill 360.
> This thing is troubling me for some time now.


This may work:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/underadbr.html


----------



## prznar1

cool stuff, gonna look for this here in Poland.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thought I was done, but of course always finding something to change...guess you could call this revision 3.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






That's a really nice looking rig. I like that white RX360!


----------



## Hamy144

So I'm about to start down the water cooling road and was looking to see if any of you have any tips about going about it interms of putting together the loop
If you want any details theyre in my work log in my signature


----------



## CramComplex

Hey guys, got my tubing from DazMode and some incoming 45* rotaries...is there anything wrong with this loop order?

Components:

2x DDC

1x XSPC Dual-DDC Dual-Bay Res+Top

1x XSPC Rasa CPU Block

1x EK Univ. GPU Copper

1x XSPC RS240

1x XSPC RX120


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> This is my first water cooling build, just added the Yate Loons on the radiator. Got a different effect than what I was hoping. Live and learn. The fluid is the EK UV Blue and I was hoping that would stand out a little. At some point I think I may change to colored tubing and I definitely want some better fittings/clamps than supplied with the XSPC kit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats on WC built and welcome to the real water-cooling family! BTW Setups nice!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> now *you need to learn photography*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen a clear shot of your rig since you put it under water.


Yes, true, that what I've noticed. He needs more practice with macro focusing only on different subjects and will get better and better photography skills. Ceadderman, trust my words.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thought I was done, but of course always finding something to change...guess you could call this revision 3.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


performance built with led lights.. super cool!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex*
> 
> Hey guys, got my tubing from DazMode and some incoming 45* rotaries...is there anything wrong with this loop order?
> 
> Components:
> 2x DDC
> 1x XSPC Dual-DDC Dual-Bay Res+Top
> 1x XSPC Rasa CPU Block
> 1x EK Univ. GPU Copper
> 1x XSPC RS240
> 1x XSPC RX120
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


XSPC Dual-DDC Dual-Bay Res >> XSPC RS240 XSPC >> Rasa CPU Block >> XSPC RX120 >> EK Univ. GPU Copper >> XSPC Dual-DDC Dual-Bay Res if I were you..


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not dark enough? Paint the inside of your case Black or a dark color. That'll darken things up considerably. If it's something else maybe one of us can help you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking that shiny metal is making the LEDs' brighter than you were hoping for though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Actually I was hoping the tubing would stand out a little more. Seems like the fan uv's darkened up everything, or the fluid isn't as reactive as I hoped?
....and thanks for the welcome, guys!


----------



## mandrix

BTW those fans on the radiator are the Yate Loon D12SL-124UB UV reactive. IDK I'm starting to dig the dark look.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex*
> 
> Hey guys, got my tubing from DazMode and some incoming 45* rotaries...is there anything wrong with this loop order?
> 
> Components:
> 2x DDC
> 1x XSPC Dual-DDC Dual-Bay Res+Top
> 1x XSPC Rasa CPU Block
> 1x EK Univ. GPU Copper
> 1x XSPC RS240
> 1x XSPC RX120


It is ok to mount your CPU block upside down to tidy up your hoses if you wish, ie have "in" on the right hand side. No biggy, just saying.


----------



## wermad

Some progress


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> This may work:
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/underadbr.html


Epic find. I'm gonna try these out!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Huge case is huge.


----------



## canada2005

Time to join the club!





Just running my leak test.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *canada2005*
> 
> Time to join the club!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just running my leak test.


Oh man, never seen a PSU so close to a sink.


----------



## canada2005

Sink isn't running


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *canada2005*
> 
> Sink isn't running


If it was I could guarantee my wifes cat would come along and blow my rig, it hates me and it would be to good an opportunity for it to miss.
BTW how many 480 rad's can the TJ11 fit?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *canada2005*
> 
> Time to join the club!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just running my leak test.


Nice rig. I'm working on a TJ11 this summer. How did you mount the res? It looks like you bent some mesh and attached it to the 5.25" bays and mounted the res to that. Is that right? Share pics if you have more please.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> If it was I could guarantee my wifes cat would come along and blow my rig, it hates me and it would be to good an opportunity for it to miss.
> BTW how many 480 rad's can the TJ11 fit?


Only 1 because the PSU is on the other side.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *canada2005*
> 
> Time to join the club!
> 
> 
> Just running my leak test.






I want a TJ11 so bad. Nice rig canada2005!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well cause I am ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Feelin Groovy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and I like to hear some feedback.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful!!! Your the man brother.When I grow up I wanna be like you
Click to expand...

Thank you for the kind words.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> You did a pretty good job on watercooling, now you need to learn photography.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen a clear shot of your rig since you put it under water.


As for pic quality, well can't be helped really. I could have done better with a DSLR, but my webbie isn't good at taking night pics. It's reasonable for day and mid level light shots but I kina like the shots it gets even at night. Maybe I need glasses now or something.









But yeah for professional quality wide angle shots on the webbie there is a lot left to be desired.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr.derp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then its not stainless steel,the non rusting is the defining charactaristic of stainless. Why do you think watercool hk's and ek blocks have stainless jet plates?
> I have spent over 20 years In machine shops,I know metals...
> So yeah,I will keep thinking that...
> 
> 
> 
> It's stain*less* not stain*proof*. Any knife aficionado can tell you stainless rusts. Especially those lower on the chromium scale tend to rust almost as easy as carbon steel near the chromium threshold of being a stainless steel. I know aus8, 154CM, and 8cr13MoV rust relatively easy within hours because of personal experience with them rusting due to constant exposure to moisture.
Click to expand...

I thought this was dead. Both sides are right in this instance however since dude did clear it up that his Radiator is not Stainless. It's standard mild steel that was painted and he sanded the paint off to get it to have a stainless look to it. Hence why I said clear coat to protect it from rust. If it had indeed been Stainless, it may not have required it but I'd still do it since the quality of Stainless is not what it used to be when I was a kid. It may not be needed but would you really want to mess with the life of a delicate Radiator by pulling it for maintenance including running some steel wool over it to knock off the brown deposits? I'm OCD. That's exactly what I would be doing. I can't keep my mitts out of my system as it is, I'm always fiddling with something. I can just imagine having an unprotected metal, even stainless, sitting inside my system.
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Anyone knows how i could securly mount rad in 5.25 bays in CM590? My radiator is some old Thermochill 360.
> 
> This thing is troubling me for some time now.


Yes. Get a 4 in 3 device (Lian-Li, Cooler Master etc) and mount it that way using the appropriate length radiator screws. Or you can get some UN Designs radiator brackets...



...if you don't want to mess with the look of the front of your Case. They mount inside the bays first then you attach your Radiator and everything is nice and secure. You can also mount the Radiator behind the 5.25 cage with them and shave some room for Devices with them.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex*
> 
> Hey guys, got my tubing from DazMode and some incoming 45* rotaries...is there anything wrong with this loop order?
> 
> Components:
> 2x DDC
> 1x XSPC Dual-DDC Dual-Bay Res+Top
> 1x XSPC Rasa CPU Block
> 1x EK Univ. GPU Copper
> 1x XSPC RS240
> 1x XSPC RX120
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excellent flow. Don't mess with a thing.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not again.

























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *canada2005*
> 
> Time to join the club!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just running my leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh man, never seen a PSU so close to a sink.
Click to expand...

You woulda [email protected] yourself silly when I did my leaktest. No cats here though. We got birds. Good thing they aren't loose. They're carnivorous. Don't let em out of your sight when they are loose. Piranha got nothin on these Lovebirds.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That's a really nice looking rig. I like that white RX360!


Thanks mate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> performance built with led lights.. super cool!


Cheers!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow!


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> XSPC Dual-DDC Dual-Bay Res >> XSPC RS240 XSPC >> Rasa CPU Block >> XSPC RX120 >> EK Univ. GPU Copper >> XSPC Dual-DDC Dual-Bay Res if I were you..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> It is ok to mount your CPU block upside down to tidy up your hoses if you wish, ie have "in" on the right hand side. No biggy, just saying.


Done and done! Thanks!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thought I was done, but of course always finding something to change...guess you could call this revision 3.0


Whoa, this build is very special, I don't think I have ever seen a radiator blend into case so damn well! Jaw dropped on the floor! I must say I'm confused to what color coolant/dye/tubing are you using? I see that with UV lighting everything is blue and white with normal lighting, whatever you did clearly looks killer!


----------



## mandrix

After looking at some of you guy's pics, I'm pretty upset.







Why?
I want a new case.
I want a new pump
I want a new rez

This is as addictive as modding cars.
Wife: Why do you need a new exhaust?
Me: These long tube headers are necessary so I can get better gas mileage.
Wife: What are you doing with that thingie (throttle body) off your car?
Me: I'm smoothing out the bore so it will be more efficient.

Now its:
Wife: Did you order something else online?
Me: Yeah.
Wife: What is it?
Me: Just some computer stuff
Wife: We have 4 computers now, what more do you need?
Me: Uhhhhhhh maybe I can sell something.........
Wife: Bank account is getting low.
Me: Mebbe I'll put some old air coolers on Craigslist.
Wife: You have parts you don't need????? Why did you buy them????
Me: Uhhhhhh I did at the time.
Wife: You better get UN-retired and get a job.
Me: But I wouldn't have time to work on computers.
Wife: Exactly.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> After looking at some of you guy's pics, I'm pretty upset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why?
> I want a new case.
> I want a new pump
> I want a new rez
> This is as addictive as modding cars.
> Wife: Why do you need a new exhaust?
> Me: These long tube headers are necessary so I can get better gas mileage.
> Wife: What are you doing with that thingie (throttle body) off your car?
> Me: I'm smoothing out the bore so it will be more efficient.
> Now its:
> Wife: Did you order something else online?
> Me: Yeah.
> Wife: What is it?
> Me: Just some computer stuff
> Wife: We have 4 computers now, what more do you need?
> Me: Uhhhhhhh maybe I can sell something.........
> Wife: Bank account is getting low.
> Me: Mebbe I'll put some old air coolers on Craigslist.
> Wife: You have parts you don't need????? Why did you buy them????
> Me: Uhhhhhh I did at the time.
> Wife: You better get UN-retired and get a job.
> Me: But I wouldn't have time to work on computers.
> Wife: Exactly.


LOL yeah I know I feel the same.. more I see the stufff the more I want it.. >:|


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> After looking at some of you guy's pics, I'm pretty upset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why?
> I want a new case.
> I want a new pump
> I want a new rez
> This is as addictive as modding cars.
> Wife: Why do you need a new exhaust?
> Me: These long tube headers are necessary so I can get better gas mileage.
> Wife: What are you doing with that thingie (throttle body) off your car?
> Me: I'm smoothing out the bore so it will be more efficient.
> Now its:
> Wife: Did you order something else online?
> Me: Yeah.
> Wife: What is it?
> Me: Just some computer stuff
> Wife: We have 4 computers now, what more do you need?
> Me: Uhhhhhhh maybe I can sell something.........
> Wife: Bank account is getting low.
> Me: Mebbe I'll put some old air coolers on Craigslist.
> Wife: You have parts you don't need????? Why did you buy them????
> Me: Uhhhhhh I did at the time.
> Wife: You better get UN-retired and get a job.
> Me: But I wouldn't have time to work on computers.
> Wife: Exactly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> LOL yeah I know I feel the same.. more I see the stufff the more I want it.. >:|


so im the only smart one. no wife


----------



## sectionsone

Spoiler: corsair800d


----------



## wermad

Quote:


>


^^^Wow! That's a lot of fittings just to connect a few blocks







. Have you considered nickel or chrome plated copper tube? Looks very smexy and its catching on. A lot of fabrication though.

Here's my lowly rig update. Its just a mockup until I finalize it. I'm waiting on a triple bridge and a helix res.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> so im the only smart one. no wife


I have a happy medium between the two... I just bring stuff home and my wife has to accept it. End of story.

...That's what happens when both of us are debt free. There's no excuse for telling the other person not to buy something they want. It also helps if that certain thing I buy is mutually beneficial for both of us. I mean why run the risk of getting yelled at for buying a classic two seater sports car when you have kids... Get a classic muscle car with a back seat instead. This way, everyone's happy.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I have a happy medium between the two... I just bring stuff home and my wife has to accept it. End of story.
> ...that's what happens when both of us are debt free. There's no excuse for telling the other person not to buy something they want. It also helps if that certain thing I buy is mutually beneficial for both of us. I mean why get yelled at for buying a classic two seated sports car when you have kids... Get a classic muscle car with a back seat instead. This way, everyone's happy.


Same here, my salary is twice my girldfriend salary. I buy whatever I need, as loong as I pay her a lot of things she wants.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> This may work:
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/underadbr.html


Wish me luck guys, i may have found a guy here in Poland that will made something similar for me.


----------



## skitzab1

going live soon just puttingg togetehr a build in a lian li vb1000+ for the mod room air cooled for now starting in abot 15 min







if anyone is interested

skitzab1 live stream building modding







now desided to water cool it hay why not


----------



## prznar1

My popcorn just ended, got to go for new bag!


----------



## skitzab1

hay guys i dont want to chop the lian li vb1000 should i use QDC and just run the rads on the outside
live streaming now

http://www.ustream.tv/channel/skitzab1-live-stream-modding help







lol
i cant deside


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Finally got my new case. It can hold 3 480's and 2 360's. Now I can finally start my z77 build.

On the left is my ascension, looks small compared to the new one.











I have to make some holes for routing tubing and wires, but the mb and componets will be isolated from any heat from the rads.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Finally got my new case. It can hold 3 480's and 2 360's. Now I can finally start my z77 build.
> On the left is my ascension, looks small compared to the new one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to make some holes for routing tubing and wires, but the mb and componets will be isolated from any heat from the rads.


Oh my


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Finally got my new case. It can hold 3 480's and 2 360's. Now I can finally start my z77 build.
> On the left is my ascension, looks small compared to the new one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to make some holes for routing tubing and wires, but the mb and componets will be isolated from any heat from the rads.


um...........................


----------



## SimpleTech

Needs more expansion slots. 7 just looks odd.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> After looking at some of you guy's pics, I'm pretty upset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why?
> I want a new case.
> I want a new pump
> I want a new rez
> This is as addictive as modding cars.
> Wife: Why do you need a new exhaust?
> Me: These long tube headers are necessary so I can get better gas mileage.
> Wife: What are you doing with that thingie (throttle body) off your car?
> Me: I'm smoothing out the bore so it will be more efficient.
> Now its:
> Wife: Did you order something else online?
> Me: Yeah.
> Wife: What is it?
> Me: Just some computer stuff
> Wife: We have 4 computers now, what more do you need?
> Me: Uhhhhhhh maybe I can sell something.........
> Wife: Bank account is getting low.
> Me: Mebbe I'll put some old air coolers on Craigslist.
> Wife: You have parts you don't need????? Why did you buy them????
> Me: Uhhhhhh I did at the time.
> Wife: You better get UN-retired and get a job.
> Me: But I wouldn't have time to work on computers.
> Wife: Exactly.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> My popcorn just ended, got to go for new bag!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

These post really cracks me up!


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> These post really cracks me up!


thay do make me giggle as well


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Finally got my new case. It can hold 3 480's and 2 360's. Now I can finally start my z77 build.
> 
> On the left is my ascension, looks small compared to the new one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to make some holes for routing tubing and wires, but the mb and componets will be isolated from any heat from the rads.


Not to inject a hint of pessimism here, but with all those holes for Radiators you'd think that there might be at least some punchouts if not some tube routing holes for what that case probably cost.









Looks cool though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to inject a hint of pessimism here, but with all those holes for Radiators you'd think that there might be at least some punchouts if not some tube routing holes for what that case probably cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks cool though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can't even see how you'd get the cables from the PSU up. I do want some flat head screws though, looks so much better than the thumb screws they come with.


----------



## iCrap

Few updated shots of my modded/wced 300. I don't think ive posted one since adding the gpu.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Same here, my salary is twice my girldfriend salary. I buy whatever I need, as loong as I pay her a lot of things she wants.


I pay for her cell phone and other creature comforts... That's more than enough. With the occasional dinner, movie or flowers of course.


----------



## skitzab1

im gonig back live to finish the cooling









http://www.ustream.tv/channel/skitzab1-live-stream-modding


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to inject a hint of pessimism here, but with all those holes for Radiators you'd think that there might be at least some punchouts if not some tube routing holes for what that case probably cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks cool though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darren9*
> 
> I can't even see how you'd get the cables from the PSU up. I do want some flat head screws though, looks so much better than the thumb screws they come with.


I going to cut holes to route tubing/wires still. I didnt want them to cut them so i wouldnt have extra holes unused. Hopefully tomorrow i can get the holes done, but upon putting some stuff in i found that they cut the psu screw mounts backwards.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to inject a hint of pessimism here, but with all those holes for Radiators you'd think that there might be at least some punchouts if not some tube routing holes for what that case probably cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks cool though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Darren9*
> 
> I can't even see how you'd get the cables from the PSU up. I do want some flat head screws though, looks so much better than the thumb screws they come with.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I going to cut holes to route tubing/wires still. I didnt want them to cut them so i wouldnt have extra holes unused. Hopefully tomorrow i can get the holes done, but upon putting some stuff in *i found that they cut the psu screw mounts backwards.*
Click to expand...

I hope they didn't think that you were wanting that when you ordered a blank Mainboard tray.









~Ceadder


----------



## crossy82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Finally got my new case. It can hold 3 480's and 2 360's. Now I can finally start my z77 build.
> On the left is my ascension, looks small compared to the new one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to make some holes for routing tubing and wires, but the mb and componets will be isolated from any heat from the rads.


Hi there.Can you tell me the exact name and model please or post a link.That is one epic <a>case:thumb</a>:


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Few updated shots of my modded/wced 300. I don't think ive posted one since adding the gpu.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good grief, man, is that an Antec 300? Wow, how did you cram all those parts in there?








I've got a 302 and I thought I was good putting an NH-D12 in it. Even then I eventually pulled it out and put a Zalman liquid cooler in.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Good grief, man, is that an Antec 300? Wow, how did you cram all those parts in there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a 302 and I thought I was good putting an NH-D12 in it. Even then I eventually pulled it out and put a Zalman liquid cooler in.


Yep, that is (was?) an antec 300. Got all that stuff in their with lots and lots of cutting...


----------



## kcuestag

Changed tubing to a much nicer one. Here's how it looked at first:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









And here's how it looks now:





What do you guys think? Hope you like it.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I hope they didn't think that you were wanting that when you ordered a blank Mainboard tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its like when they went to do the cut out for the psu they put both on backwards. I can mount the psu's but they would be on the out side ( alot of good that would do ). I gotta call them tomorrow and see how theyre going to make this right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crossy82*
> 
> Hi there.Can you tell me the exact name and model please or post a link.That is one epic case:thumb:


Theres no model name. I ordered it from mountain mods. I designed it and they fabricated it.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Changed tubing to a much nicer one. Here's how it looked at first:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's how it looks now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think? Hope you like it.


Muuuuch better, nice job


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to inject a hint of pessimism here, but with all those holes for Radiators you'd think that there might be at least some punchouts if not some tube routing holes for what that case probably cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks cool though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's actually better that there is none since you can easily make holes the proper size for fittings to pass through the plate in the middle instead of having heinously ugly grommets or open spaces.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Muuuuch better, nice job


Thank you!!

I have some 45º fittings on the way then I'll replace that small orange tubing I'm currently using from the reservoir to the pump (As two normal 19/13mm fittings don't fit together in the reservoir, but the 45º ones do!), I know it's a bit ghetto right now but really wanted to have the rig running on the weekend for the Chimp Challenge, I'll get rid of that orange tubing once the fittings arrive on Tuesday.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Changed tubing to a much nicer one. Here's how it looked at first:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's how it looks now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think? Hope you like it.


I really like that color......


----------



## mironccr345

Here's what im currently workin on. Should be up and running by the end of the week?











Sorry for the terible pictures. I have bad lighting in my garage.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Here's what im currently workin on. Should be up and running by the end of the week?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the terible pictures. I have bad lighting in my garage.


Doing work! Can't wait to see how it turns out, good luck bro


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to inject a hint of pessimism here, but with all those holes for Radiators you'd think that there might be at least some punchouts if not some tube routing holes for what that case probably cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks cool though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually better that there is none since you can easily make holes the proper size for fittings to pass through the plate in the middle instead of having heinously ugly grommets or open spaces.
Click to expand...

Yeah I didn't know he'd asked for no passthroughs at all for routing his cables.

*
i.e. PSU issue:*
For them to make it better he should ask them to pay for a Lian Li PSU cage. Then mod the case to fit around it. Should be a simple enough fix without having to pay shipping back and forth for something that big.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fultonloyn

Been a little while since I last updated! Here is my current set up! Going to stay like this for a bit. Gotta save for my wedding. No more toys for now :/ I might be able to sneak in a 670 with some overtime this month....



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Changed tubing to a much nicer one. Here's how it looked at first:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's how it looks now:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think? Hope you like it.


Yes!, this revised version looks alot better than original . Great job !


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> It's actually better that there is none since you can easily make holes the proper size for fittings to pass through the plate in the middle instead of having heinously ugly grommets or open spaces.


This^^
Don't those MM cases come flat packed? Does the rear panel come off? Could just be a case of flipping it over .....
Way too many rads in that case either way....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> It's actually better that there is none since you can easily make holes the proper size for fittings to pass through the plate in the middle instead of having heinously ugly grommets or open spaces.
> 
> 
> 
> This^^
> Don't those MM cases come flat packed? Does the rear panel come off? Could just be a case of flipping it over .....
> Way too many rads in that case either way....
Click to expand...

Not sure, but I believe that being that's a full panel and that would be an impossibility. It looks like the front and back Panels are flanged which allows the doors to be attached to them. So flipping it would be a good idea except how do you attach the door when the flanges are set to the exterior?









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

didnt want to chop into it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure, but I believe that being that's a full panel and that would be an impossibility. It looks like the front and back Panels are flanged which allows the doors to be attached to them. So flipping it would be a good idea except how do you attach the door when the flanges are set to the exterior?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The top,front and back look to be one piece and folded like my little devil,you may well right....i wouldn't even entertain chopping it,Op-send it back,you paid good money and its their mistake.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure, but I believe that being that's a full panel and that would be an impossibility. It looks like the front and back Panels are flanged which allows the doors to be attached to them. So flipping it would be a good idea except how do you attach the door when the flanges are set to the exterior?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top,front and back look to be one piece and folded like my little devil,you may well right....i wouldn't even entertain chopping it,Op-send it back,you paid good money and its their mistake.
Click to expand...

True. I'm just thinking about what would be the simplest way. Either way they're on the hook for something.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Some loop turned up today..









2 of these in serial means i welcome restriction. Muahahahahaaaa!


----------



## Ceadderman

Niiiiice BNeg!









I support your endeavor is that two 480s I see?









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Some loop turned up today..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 of these in serial means i welcome restriction. Muahahahahaaaa!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Niiiiice BNeg!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I support your endeavor is that two 480s I see?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


2 480s and another one on its way...
Shame the AMS rads i wanted wont fit,they are just too big....i didnt want to use a PSU extender.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Niiiiice BNeg!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I support your endeavor is that two 480s I see?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 480s and another one on its way...
> Shame the AMS rads i wanted wont fit,they are just too big....i didnt want to use a PSU extender.
Click to expand...

Very cool. I'm jelly for three 480s'.









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

I have a question for you guys.

Right now I'm running a WC Loop with an i7 2600k @ 5GHz HT ON 1.44v, an EK Supreme HF Plexi, EK DCP 4.0, and a Magicool Dual 180mm.

I'm using 2x AP-181 fans for push at ~900rpm, and my load temperatures under a hot day with room ambients of about ~27º-28ºC here about 73-75ºC under [email protected] on some very stressful WU's. I noticed that if I push the fans further to max speed (around 1200rpm) they decrease temperatures by ~2ºC but the noise gain is way too much to keep it like this 24/7. I also run the pump at ~70% speed as it makes no difference at all between that and full speed in my loop.

I have a spare 120mm rad laying around and 2x AP-15 fans, should I bother installing it? or should I keep is at it is?

This is how it looks at the moment:

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/21410#post_17283365

Adding the 120mm with 2x AP-15 on the top would probably mean the rig would look less neat/clean. Would I gain anything by adding that 120mm rad? Even 2-3ºC would make me very happy, at the moment water temperature on under load seems to be ~6-7ºC hotter than room temperature (~27º-28ºC on the room and water temperature is about ~34ºC at max, if I speed up the two AP-181 fans it lowers like ~2ºC water temp).

Should I bother installing the 120mm rad with both AP-15 fans? Would it improve temperatures at all? or should I just leave it as it is?

I know anything under 75ºC for 24/7 is still very safe for an i7 2600k, I was just expecting to keep it under 70ºC at all times at 5GHz, but I guess it's not possible for me right now.









I appreciate any help.

Thanks.


----------



## driftingforlife

Install it, It won't look any worse.


----------



## kcuestag

How much of a temperature improvement should I expect? 2ºC? 3ºC?


----------



## driftingforlife

Honestly I don't know. It won't hurt to fit it.


----------



## kcuestag

To be honest I think I expected a bit better results off my WC Loop, but I guess they're not bad considering I had 28ºC ambient in the room and just 2 push fans at ~900rpm.

Will add the 120mm rad as soon as fittings arrive tomorrow or Wednesday, hopefully I can keep it below 70ºC for 5GHz, that's all I wanted.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How much of a temperature improvement should I expect? 2ºC? 3ºC?


I would say don't bother installing it. I think you won't see much difference since your ambient is SO high. Ambient temperature is very important.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> To be honest I think I expected a bit better results off my WC Loop, but I guess they're not bad considering I had 28ºC ambient in the room and just 2 push fans at ~900rpm.
> Will add the 120mm rad as soon as fittings arrive tomorrow or Wednesday, hopefully I can keep it below 70ºC for 5GHz, that's all I wanted.


That does seem about right. I keep my 2600K at 4.6GHz for folding and it maxes around 60ºC. Thats with a XSPC EX360 rad and push pull fans.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I would say don't bother installing it. I think you won't see much difference since your ambient is SO high. Ambient temperature is very important.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> That does seem about right. I keep my 2600K at 4.6GHz for folding and it maxes around 60ºC. Thats with a XSPC EX360 rad and push pull fans.


Thanks, if adding the 120mm rad helps at least 2ºC then I'll install it, although for less than 2ºC I won't.

To install or not to install?









Oh, another question, if I wanted to buy 2x universal core blocks for the GTX680's (Probable EK Supreme HF blocks) would the Dual 180mm + 120mm rads be enough to cool down the rig? I would back it down to 4.8GHz if needed.


----------



## driftingforlife

I don't know, it might cope, also why not use the full cover blocks?


----------



## kcuestag

Alright, thanks.









Wasn't sure if I really wanted to put both under water, now I definitely won't.









Right now my room temperature is ~25.4ºC and water temperatures is ~27.6ºC, does it sound good? This is of course at idle.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I don't know, it might cope, also why not use the full cover blocks?


Yes, if you have money to buy two GTX 680, you can buy two full cover blocks ( and change the case to a NZXT Switch 810 )


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Alright, thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wasn't sure if I really wanted to put both under water, now I definitely won't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now my room temperature is ~25.4ºC and water temperatures is ~27.6ºC, does it sound good? This is of course at idle.


Delta of 2.2 'C is very good, especially if you are under load, if so, don't bother adding the other Rad.

EDIT: Just saw that it was idle, to check for the delta, check it under load.
Quote:


> Let's Talk About What a "Good" DT is
> 
> A CPU loop needs a good DT. Under 10°C is just fine, getting closer to 5°C is very nice and important if you want big overclocks. Getting under 5°C is just overdoing it, unless you're very extreme, need it for benching or just want a challenge. On an average CPU loop shoot for under 10°C and adjust your overclocks to be fine under the temperatures suggested by the CPU and GPU manufacturers.
> 
> A GPU loop used to be fine with a 15° to 20°C DT. If you're a big GPU overclocker, then shoot for 15°C or lower. The Voltage Regulator Modules (VRM) on these new cards can be affected by temps. If you've got a GTX 280 like me, don't worry about it, it's the 5970 and the GTX480 and other really hot cards that can have this issue. A lower DT might be needed for a GPU loop if you're a big overclocker - thats up to you as you design your setup.


----------



## driftingforlife

^this, change the case man. Cosmos S II or something.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Yes, if you have money to buy two GTX 680, you can buy two full cover blocks ( and change the case to a NZXT Switch 810 )


No, I don't have money to full cover blocks, let alone a new case.









If I changed something, it would be universal blocks, I tend to change GPU's at the very least once a year, so buying full cover blocks is a huge waste to me, way too hard to sell them later on, thats why I thought of universal waterblocks.

But then again if Dual 180mm + 120mm is not enough, then I'll get that off my mind, can't afford buying more rads or a new case.









Can't lie though I have been looking at a HAF X for the last few days but I simply can't afford it, plus, would there be any place to screw the dual 180mm rad into that case?

I don't like the Cosmos II.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Delta of 2.2 'C is very good, especially if you are under load, if so, don't bother adding the other Rad


No, this is at idle, at load ithe delta is more like ~6-7ºC, good? bad? can be improved?


----------



## johhu12

How much of cooling i need(radiator space) for overclocked i5-2500K and GTX680(and GTX 680 in SLI).


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johhu12*
> 
> How much of cooling i need(radiator space) for overclocked i5-2500K and GTX680(and GTX 680 in SLI).


My rule, CPU + Single GPU = at least 65MM Thick 360 Radiator


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> My rule, CPU + Single GPU = at least 65MM Thick 360 Radiator


Mine also.


----------



## Aventadoor

I have 2x GPUs and CPU watercooled togheter with 2x 480 radiators and 1x 360. Before I "only" had 240 + 360 radiator.
But the temp diffrence is only like 10c. Maby I could have gotten better temps if I dident have bottom radiators in push push config.


----------



## Ceadderman

kcuestag, I wouldn't worry about installing it. If you are 2c above ambient then there really is no point in going through all the work to *try* to shave 2c off your temps. I could see it if you were 10 points off Ambient but it's not really going to make much of a difference.









I'm running 1100T @ load and my ambient is 21c System is 38c running CIVF block and CPU. I get about 31 @ Idle unless the humidity is low. So I wouldn't sweat the 2c. Those are damned fine temps you're running my friend.









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> kcuestag, I wouldn't worry about installing it. If you are 2c above ambient then there really is no point in going through all the work to *try* to shave 2c off your temps. I could see it if you were 10 points off Ambient but it's not really going to make much of a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running 1100T @ load and my ambient is 21c System is 38c running CIVF block and CPU. I get about 31 @ Idle unless the humidity is low. So I wouldn't sweat the 2c. Those are damned fine temps you're running my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks a lot, those ~2ºC above ambient were on idle though, I am resumed [email protected] now and I will let it run for a while and see what's the max water temperature.

Maybe I was way too confident that I could keep it under 70ºC at 5GHz, but it seems that's a no go unless I turn on the air conditioner.









At the moment room temperature is ~25.4ºC, and so far water temperature is at ~33ºC - 34ºC , so that's ~9ºC difference in Delta under full load, maybe with the extra 120mm rad I could keep it closer to 5ºC Delta?

CPU hottest cores: 67ºC, 73ºC, 74ºC, 71ºC.

Edit:

Yeah, delta seems to be ~9ºC, will adding the 120mm rad help decrease the delta?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Doing work! Can't wait to see how it turns out, good luck bro


Thanks man, I'll post pics once it's finished.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Thanks man, I'll post pics once it's finished.


Cool. It's a little hard to see in that second photo, but what size is that radiator you've squeezed in there? 540?? And are you going for some kind of stealth look with the bay res, or is it just sitting like that for testing purposes? It would look real nice stealthed out









~Mike


----------



## kcuestag

It seems like running the fans so low is actually restricting my delta.

2x AP-181 Push @ ~900rpm -> ~9ºC Delta
2x AP-181 Push @ ~1200rpm -> ~6ºC delta

Difference of almost 3ºC in Delta, I think the 120mm rad with 2x AP-15 fans would help, I will install it and see.


----------



## Eggy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> It seems like running the fans so low is actually restricting my delta.
> 2x AP-181 Push @ ~900rpm -> ~9ºC Delta
> 2x AP-181 Push @ ~1200rpm -> ~6ºC delta
> Difference of almost 3ºC in Delta, I think the 120mm rad with 2x AP-15 fans would help, I will install it and see.


A 120mm will add another 22% of surface area in your loop so i would assume that it would lower the temps some. Just out of curiosity how noisy are the fans @ 1200RPM, you have a fan controller so why not run them @ 1200 when you game. I have 13 fans @ 1850rpm and don't mind that much.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> A 120mm will add another 22% of surface area in your loop so i would assume that it would lower the temps some. Just out of curiosity how noisy are the fans @ 1200RPM, you have a fan controller so why not run them @ 1200 when you game. I have 13 fans @ 1850rpm and don't mind that much.


They're noisy, I can definitely tolerate them while gaming, and a bit while idling too.

I think my radiator is not getting much air / pressure either because I did not tighten the rad into the fans, so a lot of that air pressure is not going through the rad, could that be another reason why the temperatures are a bit high?









Hopefully if I add the 120mm rad I can keep the CPU under 72ºC at full load, right now it hits 74-75ºC max while [email protected] with fans at @ ~900rpm, I wanted to keep it at least under 72ºC.


----------



## Eggy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> They're noisy, I can definitely tolerate them while gaming, and a bit while idling too.
> I think my radiator is not getting much air / pressure either because I did not tighten the rad into the fans, so a lot of that air pressure is not going through the rad, could that be another reason why the temperatures are a bit high?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully if I add the 120mm rad I can keep the CPU under 72ºC at full load, right now it hits 74-75ºC max while [email protected] with fans at @ ~900rpm, I wanted to keep it at least under 72ºC.


Might try the old electrical tape trick, with some time and playing you can make a airtight seal between the rad and the fans and allow all of the air to go trough the rad.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> A 120mm will add another 22% of surface area in your loop so i would assume that it would lower the temps some. Just out of curiosity how noisy are the fans @ 1200RPM, you have a fan controller so why not run them @ 1200 when you game. I have 13 fans @ 1850rpm and don't mind that much.
> 
> 
> 
> They're noisy, I can definitely tolerate them while gaming, and a bit while idling too.
> 
> I think my radiator is not getting much air / pressure either because I did not tighten the rad into the fans, so a lot of that air pressure is not going through the rad, could that be another reason why the temperatures are a bit high?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully if I add the 120mm rad I can keep the CPU under 72ºC at full load, right now it hits 74-75ºC max while [email protected] with fans at @ ~900rpm, I wanted to keep it at least under 72ºC.
Click to expand...

Just for reference... my case is quite noisy... I have 4x Yate Loon High Speeds at top speed, Bitfenix 230mm fan, 120mm Coolermaster blue led fan... everything going top speed. The first day or two it's obnoxious, after that, we've enjoyed having that "white noise" in the room. Then again, I sleep with a box fan or AC going in my room year round... so that'd make sense that I'd like fan noise eventually.









Good luck with the 120 install... let us know what it does to that delta... I'm curious to see how your temps improve!


----------



## prznar1

Ordering those UN rad brackets from USA to Poland. Shipping will hit me a bit :x.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Might try the old electrical tape trick, with some time and playing you can make a airtight seal between the rad and the fans and allow all of the air to go trough the rad.


I think I will just unscrew the fans from the case and move them a bit to the outside so I can screw down the rad into the fan.









And later in summer I will mod the case so I can fit the rad perfectly inside, it's just a little cutting but I don't have the time or the tools to do it right now, will do it in July.









Fittings should arrive tomorrow or Wednesday, as soon as they do I will install the 120mm rad and screw the dual 180mm rad into both fans, hopefully that helps temperatures, it makes me quite sad seeing the CPU hit 75ºC @ 5GHz on the WC Loop.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Cool. It's a little hard to see in that second photo, but what size is that radiator you've squeezed in there? 540?? And are you going for some kind of stealth look with the bay res, or is it just sitting like that for testing purposes? It would look real nice stealthed out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Mike


It's a 540mm radiator from Magicool. Im using the the three of the AP181 pushing air through the rad. The res/pump is recessed in the 5.25" bay for a stealth look. I might play around with the idea of showing the bay/res off since i'll be using ID with some dye.

~mironccr


----------



## kcuestag

Does it make a big difference on having or not the radiator screwed into the fans when it comes to temperatures? I think this may be another reason as to why I am getting a bit higher temperatures than I expected, since the rad is loose and is not perfectly installed on top of the fans, so some pressure/flow from the fans doesnt get into the rad, but goes outside inside.


----------



## kcuestag

I did some ghetto modding and used double sided tape to put 2 yate loons on top the rad just as temporary test:



It seems to have dropped the delta from ~9ºC down to ~7ºC, not bad. Hopeully when I install the 120mm rad tomorrow I can scratch off another ~2ºC.









Something I have noticed in my loop is that the water in the loop doesn't look clean, it looks a bit white... You can mainly see it on the res and on the cpu block, the water looks a bit "cloudy". I'm using distilled water with 1 drop of Mayhems biocide and ~10ml of anti-corro fluid.

Why is the water not clear?


----------



## Fuganater

Did you flush the system well before closing the loop?


----------



## kcuestag

Well I did clean everything with hot tap water.


----------



## Fuganater

can you post a close up of the res?


----------



## LuZmA

Here you have a pic of my rig ;3


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> can you post a close up of the res?


Sure, here you go:


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuZmA*
> 
> Here you have a pic of my rig ;3


Looks cool, but a better shot of the rig as a whole would be nice









~Mike


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Go 540



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I did some ghetto modding and used double sided tape to put 2 yate loons on top the rad just as temporary test:
> 
> It seems to have dropped the delta from ~9ºC down to ~7ºC, not bad. Hopeully when I install the 120mm rad tomorrow I can scratch off another ~2ºC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something I have noticed in my loop is that the water in the loop doesn't look clean, it looks a bit white... You can mainly see it on the res and on the cpu block, the water looks a bit "cloudy". I'm using distilled water with 1 drop of Mayhems biocide and ~10ml of anti-corro fluid.
> Why is the water not clear?






That's looking good. You think about getting a 540 in that RV02?



Spoiler: TJ07



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuZmA*
> 
> Here you have a pic of my rig ;3






That looks like a TJ07???

~mironccr


----------



## Fuganater

Hmm not sure. Sorry kc.


----------



## kcuestag

Oh well, I'm re-doing the loop tomorrow as I want to install the extra 120mm rad to scratch of a few more degrees on the CPU, so I will clean everything again.









@mironccr345 I don't plan on buying anything else, I've already spent all my money into this WC Loop and I won't be adding anything else, keep in mind It's only for the CPU, no plans on doing the GPU's.









All I need now is to add that 120mm rad with a pair of AP-15's and hopefully scratch a good ~2ºC at least.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Oh well, I'm re-doing the loop tomorrow as I want to install the extra 120mm rad to scratch of a few more degrees on the CPU, so I will clean everything again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @mironccr345 I don't plan on buying anything else, I've already spent all my money into this WC Loop and I won't be adding anything else, keep in mind It's only for the CPU, no plans on doing the GPU's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I need now is to add that 120mm rad with a pair of AP-15's and hopefully scratch a good ~2ºC at least.


What is your Tubing, is it primochill? If so, they were know to cloud, doing small white depot. I personnally don't think its bad, I'm pretty sure it doesn't harm anything. Its normal that the parts get cloudy after a while, I recommend each year to take everything apart and open blocks to clean them. Flush Rads...etc...etc... Air Compressor inside the PC and clean all fans. I recommend every year. But I do the air compressor thing every 3 months.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuZmA*
> 
> Here you have a pic of my rig ;3


Nice light table, how'd you go about making that?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> What is your Tubing, is it primochill? If so, they were know to cloud, doing small white depot. I personnally don't think its bad, I'm pretty sure it doesn't harm anything. Its normal that the parts get cloudy after a while, I recommend each year to take everything apart and open blocks to clean them. Flush Rads...etc...etc... Air Compressor inside the PC and clean all fans. I recommend every year. But I do the air compressor thing every 3 months.


It is Masterkleer tubing.

But thanks, good to know.


----------



## kcuestag

I want to know everyone's opinion.

If you guys were me, using a dual 180mm rad with 2 push fans at ~900rpm (definitely limiting factor, temps improve at higher speeds), would you install a 120mm rad I have laying around with two AP-15 fans?

It's not like I'm buying the rad, already had it and I'm wondering if I should install it or not.









I'm unsure, to install the 120mm rad or not to install.


----------



## wermad

Triple bridge came in on saturday. Frozencpu is on a roll! Very much like them at the moment







. Waiting on "new" psu and helix res.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I want to know everyone's opinion.
> 
> If you guys were me, using a dual 180mm rad with 2 push fans at ~900rpm (definitely limiting factor, temps improve at higher speeds), would you install a 120mm rad I have laying around with two AP-15 fans?
> 
> It's not like I'm buying the rad, already had it and I'm wondering if I should install it or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm unsure, to install the 120mm rad or not to install.


If you got it, why not? I don't think it'll hurt your temps any. You're running a very low restriction loop, seeing as you have the single rad and a single block.


----------



## derickwm

Moar rad space!!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> If you got it, why not? I don't think it'll hurt your temps any. You're running a very low restriction loop, seeing as you have the single rad and a single block.


I'm looking for a ~2ºC performance improvement so that I can keep 5GHz with comfortable temperatures 24/7.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm looking for a ~2ºC performance improvement so that I can keep 5GHz with comfortable temperatures 24/7.


Go for it, Some say I will be over killing the rads with a 480 and a 360 (Black Ice GTX Xtremes) But I say meh. With the case I will be putting them in I could do another 360 and 4 120s so.... If you got it do it.


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

my corsiar custom loop. 1x h100 (cpu) / 2x h70 (gpu) 1x 120mm rad / 1x 240mm rad.

Diablo 3 build log


----------



## Fuganater

Nice rig PCEnthusiast85! How does the H100 pump handle that loop?


----------



## wermad

Awesome custom panel














!!!!!!!!!!!!1


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Nice light table, how'd you go about making that?


Hi Derickwm, not sure if he used the same method but here is a thread from a bloke that made one posted at bittech, warning lots of pics,

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?p=2889930#post2889930


----------



## fakeblood

Final Pics from my Tiny Temjin build


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Does it make a big difference on having or not the radiator screwed into the fans when it comes to temperatures? I think this may be another reason as to why I am getting a bit higher temperatures than I expected, since the rad is loose and is not perfectly installed on top of the fans, so some pressure/flow from the fans doesnt get into the rad, but goes outside inside.


Not sure if anyone answered this, but you want your fans as tight as you can get them to the radiator. Gaps will cause some trouble and although not measurable for loss it's in your best interest to tighten things up as much as possible. I have Koolance fan mounts in mine and one thing they say is to use a strip of electrical tape over the mounts attaching to the Radiator to seal the gap created by the flanges of the mounts. I don't do it cause I have Phobya shroud/decouplers between my fans and my Radiator. I need to get some decouplers for the top of my fans cause when tightened all the way the front fan binds and I can hear the blades clicking off the crossbars.

Anyway I'm pretty sure you can get a couple Centigrade back if your fans are blowing straight into the Radiator with as little obstruction(gap being the obstruction) as possible. I would also suggest if you have 20-25mm of free space above the fans you might just try shrouds. That can get you a couple as well. You won't go below ambient at idle but you should see the return under load.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my corsiar custom loop. 1x h100 (cpu) / 2x h70 (gpu) 1x 120mm rad / 1x 240mm rad.
> 
> Diablo 3 build log


Are those Plexi backplates for your GPU?









The level of detail is awesome.









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure if anyone answered this, but you want your fans as tight as you can get them to the radiator. Gaps will cause some trouble and although not measurable for loss it's in your best interest to tighten things up as much as possible. I have Koolance fan mounts in mine and one thing they say is to use a strip of electrical tape over the mounts attaching to the Radiator to seal the gap created by the flanges of the mounts. I don't do it cause I have Phobya shroud/decouplers between my fans and my Radiator. I need to get some decouplers for the top of my fans cause when tightened all the way the front fan binds and I can hear the blades clicking off the crossbars.
> Anyway I'm pretty sure you can get a couple Centigrade back if your fans are blowing straight into the Radiator with as little obstruction(gap being the obstruction) as possible. I would also suggest if you have 20-25mm of free space above the fans you might just try shrouds. That can get you a couple as well. You won't go below ambient at idle but you should see the return under load.


Thanks a lot Ceadderman.

I'll be looking forward to attach the rad into the fans so I can close the gap and improve the temperature a bit more. I think I am also going to add the 120mm rad, even if it's just 1-2ºC in delta I'll be really happy.


----------



## sate200

My rig!!!


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Final Pics from my Tiny Temjin build
> *snip*


That...is...AWESOME.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> My rig!!!
> *snip*


Not sure how much that cost. O.O


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> My rig!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very









Why no 480mm rad on your 700D? Looked great with the 4x120 Koolance shroud on my old 800D build


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Yes sate200, looks smexy buddy!

fakeblood, that little case looks great too! You did a nice job there.


----------



## TheJesus

I'll just leave this here:


----------



## jarble

sexy


----------



## mironccr345

GTX 690 Koolance Water Block =


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> GTX 690 Koolance Water Block =


GTX 690 PERIOD









I wish I had 2 grand to drop on two of those....

granted if that was all I upgraded this Summer/Fall then sure why not my current upgrade/build for Summer/Fall is going to cost me 3600 and change.

Not including my experiment idea (http://www.overclock.net/t/1259805/cooling-box-idea#post_17286788)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I'll just leave this here:


----------



## derickwm

Get it wermad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Get it wermad


too poor sadly







. Money is going towards an ips Surround setup. gotta save up for a larger car as our family is growing too.


----------



## derickwm

Ah can't argue with that. Been loving my ips eyefinity setup. If only nVidia supported more than 3 monitors they might have had my money


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


The only thing that sucks about the new 670-690s is you are forced into using duel slots. where as I can change out the dual for a single on my 460, when I put a water block on it


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Final Pics from my Tiny Temjin build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*










...that is literally the culmination of everything I love in a watercooling build. Small, clean, beautiful, powerful. Do you have a build log for that? I was thinking about an Arc Mini build, but you make the Temjin look awfully tempting... I especially like the fact that it actually has an aluminum front panel.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ah can't argue with that. Been loving my ips eyefinity setup. If only nVidia supported more than 3 monitors they might have had my money


I didn't like buying the stupid dp adapter. But, honestly, with last gen cards, you needed at least two gpu(s) to get decent game play in Surround/Eyefinity.


----------



## derickwm

I just bought some mini dp -> dp cables and they work like a charm for about $5 each. No need to buy those ridiculous $30 adapters. I'm actually quite surprised at how well my single 7970 is handling 6000x1920.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I just bought some mini dp -> dp cables and they work like a charm for about $5 each. No need to buy those ridiculous $30 adapters. I'm actually quite surprised at how well my single 7970 is handling 6000x1920.


had to get an active one when i had my 6950s.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ah can't argue with that. Been loving my ips eyefinity setup. If only nVidia supported more than 3 monitors they might have had my money


I thought the new 670+ supported 4 each?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I thought the new 670+ supported 4 each?


Last gen Nvidia cards you needed sli and the cards had to be Surround compatible.


----------



## derickwm

I *think* they support 3+1, which is a nice feature don't get me wrong. Even if they do support a full 4 though, I wouldn't want to play a lot of games with a black bar right in the middle


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I *think* they support 3+1, which is a nice feature don't get me wrong. Even if they do support a full 4 though, I wouldn't want to play a lot of games with a black bar right in the middle


True true


----------



## TheJesus

It is indeed 3+1. Someone tried to correct me in derickwm's thread that two 690s could run 6 monitors -_-


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> It is indeed 3+1. Someone tried to correct me in derickwm's thread that two 690s could run 6 monitors -_-


Its not a bad presumption if you are not sure, one would think that in an SLI setup that you should be able to connect 3 or 4 to each card.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Its not a bad presumption if you are not sure, one would think that in an SLI setup that you should be able to connect 3 or 4 to each card.


Its fine if you just don't know and you offer it as an initial piece of advice, but if someone has already clearly stated the opposite, you should perhaps research/provide evidence (as I did and he never responded, lmao) for your case. I'm not even a Nvidia user, but I know Surround isn't capable of more than 3 continuous


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Last gen Nvidia cards you needed sli and the cards had to be Surround compatible.


the 6 series does not need two cards to do Surround

Surround achieved on single card, 680


----------



## derickwm

Rushmore, why hasn't nVidia expanded to 5+ monitors yet? It's been available for 3 generations of ATI/AMD cards.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> the 6 series does not need two cards to do Surround
> Surround achieved on single card, 680


Yup, last gen cards you needed two cards but I think it was a good route since gameplay on one card sucked in Eyefinity (tied it with one unlocked 6950). I would justify the wait by Nvidia since the 680 is a much more powerful card on its own.

I still couldn't max out Metro in surround with three 580 3gb







. The msaa is killer and would cause the drivers to crash


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Final Pics from my Tiny Temjin build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---snip----




That is one sexy looking machine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> the 6 series does not need two cards to do Surround
> Surround achieved on single card, 680
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, last gen cards you needed two cards but I think it was a good route since gameplay on one card sucked in Eyefinity (tied it with one unlocked 6950). I would justify the wait by Nvidia since the 680 is a much more powerful card on its own.
> 
> I still couldn't max out Metro in surround with three 580 3gb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The msaa is killer and would cause the drivers to crash
Click to expand...

I should Max out Metro 2033 and see what happens on the 6870.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> My rig!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that EK CPU block the nickel or chrome version? Also is there a reason why Koolance uses black plastic mixed with nickel plates on their VGA blocks? God their beautiful, my next VGA block will be a Koolance one!


----------



## Aventadoor

Yesterday I changed tubing & coolant to EK-EKcoolant Blood Red, and damn its dark, kinda to dark red imo


----------



## sate200

lol


----------



## nabarun

"small update"

swapped my 7970 for 2 GTX 680's
still waiting for the EK waterblocks


----------



## xNAPx

new loop (no hardware)


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Yesterday I changed tubing & coolant to EK-EKcoolant Blood Red, and damn its dark, kinda to dark red imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*raises hand requesting more pics*


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Yesterday I changed tubing & coolant to EK-EKcoolant Blood Red, and damn its dark, kinda to dark red imo


**Sneaks in and replaces tubing with lime green**

**Two hours later puts blood red tubing in own system and posts awesome heart attack giving photos""


----------



## Sir Beregond

That looks more purple than red.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> That looks more purple than red.


i disagree, it looks a lot like blood


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys,
Quick question. I have this radiator that a friend gave me. It is a old Innovatek reservoir I think. But anyway, it has built in 1/2" ID fittings. I am doing a build in an NZXT Vulcan and just dont feel like I would have the room I am looking for if I used that size of tubing. So I am wondering if I can just heat up the end of 1/2" OD tubing and slide it on. Obviously I would use a clamp as well but am unsure what else to do.
Is this an option that wont come to bite me in the behind?

Sorry for the phone pictures, but here are three pictures to show what I am actually talking about




Thanks alot for the help.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Quick question. I have this radiator that a friend gave me. It is a old Innovatek reservoir I think. But anyway, it has built in 1/2" ID fittings. I am doing a build in an NZXT Vulcan and just dont feel like I would have the room I am looking for if I used that size of tubing. So I am wondering if I can just heat up the end of 1/2" OD tubing and slide it on. Obviously I would use a clamp as well but am unsure what else to do.
> Is this an option that wont come to bite me in the behind?
> Sorry for the phone pictures, but here are three pictures to show what I am actually talking about
> Thanks alot for the help.


It may work but, equally,it could split the pipe at a future point...thought about tapping it instead?


----------



## rdr09

you can use a reducer. here is an example . .

http://www.dtekcustoms.com/hi-flowhosereducer-12-38.aspx

may not be exactly what you need but you get the idea.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Nice and shiny... I would loved to have done an all chrome case and internals.


----------



## audioholic

What do you mean by tapping? I wish this was a threaded connection but alas it is built in. A green scrotchbrite goes a long way at cleaning that up








Thanks


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> What do you mean by tapping? I wish this was a threaded connection but alas it is built in. A green scrotchbrite goes a long way at cleaning that up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


By tapping he meant to cut the built-in barbs off and using a thread tap to make a G1/4 or G3/8 thread.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> My rig!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice a [email protected]$$ RIG setup!


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Quick question. I have this radiator that a friend gave me. It is a old Innovatek reservoir I think. But anyway, it has built in 1/2" ID fittings. I am doing a build in an NZXT Vulcan and just dont feel like I would have the room I am looking for if I used that size of tubing. So I am wondering if I can just heat up the end of 1/2" OD tubing and slide it on. Obviously I would use a clamp as well but am unsure what else to do.
> Is this an option that wont come to bite me in the behind?
> Sorry for the phone pictures, but here are three pictures to show what I am actually talking about
> Thanks alot for the help.


You underestimate the Vulcan. See my sig build (the budget titled one). I used 1/2"x3/4" tubing with no issues.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can never get enough of your Vulcan build TJ. Please post more shots.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can never get enough of your Vulcan build TJ. Please post more shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its already been sold off in pieces for a few months, lol. The last shot shows it exploded







The second page is about all the shots one could need of it


----------



## AstuteCobra

Alphacool XT45 480 or XSPC EX 480 what would you choose for Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans in pull?


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> You underestimate the Vulcan. See my sig build (the budget titled one). I used 1/2"x3/4" tubing with no issues.


Thanks for this! My only real concern was fitment and bends. Looks like I have more planning to do!


----------



## superericla

Just totaled up my water cooling cost and I've spend around $1100 in total so far. I'm not done upgrading either.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...that is literally the culmination of everything I love in a watercooling build. Small, clean, beautiful, powerful. Do you have a build log for that? I was thinking about an Arc Mini build, but you make the Temjin look awfully tempting... I especially like the fact that it actually has an aluminum front panel.


Buildlog is in my sig


----------



## JourdanWithaU

I wonder... So I have been flipping through a lot of build photos and of the multi pump loops, the pumps are usually right after each other. Would there be any benefit of spacing the pumps out through the loop? For example, Res1 -> Pump1 -> Rad1 -> CPU -> Res2 -> Pump2 -> Rad2-> GPU -> Res1. Or would that kind of a loop just be unnecessary?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just totaled up my water cooling cost and I've spend around $1100 in total so far. I'm not done upgrading either.


I've exceeded $1200 which includes the STH10 and water cooling system, yet not one component upgraded. Realistically I expect to hit $1600 when all is ready for new components, I still need quite a few Case Labs accessories.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I've exceeded $1200 which includes the STH10 and water cooling system, yet not one component upgraded.


I'm not even including the case.


----------



## derickwm

My watercooling topped $1400 in my Syrillian Bench build. I'm sure I'll top that once I've settled into my new place and can start ordering things for my coming STH10.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My watercooling topped $1400 in my Syrillian Bench build. I'm sure I'll top that once I've settled into my new place and can start ordering things for my coming STH10.


There's always more to fit in an STH10. If I had one there would be nonstop part ordering.


----------



## derickwm

Solution? Get one.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Solution? Get one.


I plan on getting a CaseLabs case once I get the funds. I want to upgrade my mobo and CPU first but after that it'll be a new case. I just don't know which one to get.


----------



## derickwm

Good call, CaseLabs doesn't allow AMD CPUs in their products


----------



## Fantasy

for more pictures of my full build check this thread.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1254410/my-new-x79-rig-building-it-since-march


----------



## derickwm

Why would you put stickers on such a beautiful build...


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Why would you put stickers on such a beautiful build...


hahah LOL. I love stickers









thank you.


----------



## skitzab1

mall sneek peek














clear case! yes ugly.

this ???????????







as they say Epic !









well to me in my head it is and will be. the begining of the wonka Epic thermal tower build :0









hi peeps and hope you all like


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Good call, CaseLabs doesn't allow AMD CPUs in their products


I'm mostly just putting off getting a new case since I got a new case just a month or two ago. I might just upgrade my GPU before I get a new case and save a mobo/CPU upgrade for later.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Good call, CaseLabs doesn't allow AMD CPUs in their products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm mostly just putting off getting a new case since I got a new case just a month or two ago. I might just upgrade my GPU before I get a new case and save a mobo/CPU upgrade for later.
Click to expand...

You're trying to justify a month or two to *me*. Not sure if serious









Two months is like record breaking.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You're trying to justify a month or two to *me*. Not sure if serious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two months is like record breaking.


Haha, true...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Good call, CaseLabs doesn't allow AMD CPUs in their products


Don't be a fanboi Derrick. I'll have to club you over the head with an old K6 chip I've got layin round here someplace.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Hehe







I love AMD GPUs but let's be serious here, their current line of CPUs does not compete with Intel's offering for top notch processing. (not knocking them for priceerformance ratio but their overall power). I would love to see AMD launch some processors that knocked the socks off Ivy Bridge or even SB-E.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


I know it's off topic but I am looking forward to this movie


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> I know it's off topic but I am looking forward to this movie


what is the name of the movie?


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> what is the name of the movie?


Ted

Here is link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxKfC77XAp8&nomobile=1

Very funny


----------



## skitzab1

dose look funny :0


----------



## rkwallace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> mall sneek peek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> clear case! yes ugly.
> this ???????????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as they say Epic !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well to me in my head it is and will be. the begining of the wonka Epic thermal tower build :0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hi peeps and hope you all like


I always liked clear cases but keeping them dust free is a challenge. I had several of them in the past but they are a lot of work. I imagine the task would
be three fold with all the fans pulling in air over the reservoir. Whatever the case good luck on your build.

Robin


----------



## george_orm

the ted trailer look great, hey looking to get a new gpu soon, what are some of the best ones to water cool,
any killer non-reference boards that water cool great?


----------



## kcuestag

Changed the loop again and moved the pump to the top of the radiator, I don't think leaving it on the drive bays with the HDD's absorbing all the vibration was healthy.









Here's how it looks now:



All I need to now is to cut the case with a dremel like *this video at 9:30* so that I can perfectly fit the rad into the fans and tighten it with some screws, but that will have to wait another month until I move to my house in Spain.









I'm also considering buying an *XSPC 5,25" Bay Reservoir* when I have some money in the future, really like it and removing that big reservoir I have now would make the rig look cleaner.









Another reason I changed the radiator holes to the right side is so that the left ("bottom") GTX680 have more airflow from the bottom fans below the rad, the other way around had no fins under that GPU and it got really bad airflow, now its a lot better.









Hope you like it.









PS: And yes, I will cut those zip ties when the leak testing is done.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

2 Rads in for a test fit..








and some ram....not being watercooled tho


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: @kcuestag



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Changed the loop again and moved the pump to the top of the radiator, I don't think leaving it on the drive bays with the HDD's absorbing all the vibration was healthy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks now:
> 
> 
> 
> All I need to now is to cut the case with a dremel like *this video at 9:30* so that I can perfectly fit the rad into the fans and tighten it with some screws, but that will have to wait another month until I move to my house in Spain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also considering buying an *XSPC 5,25" Bay Reservoir* when I have some money in the future, really like it and removing that big reservoir I have now would make the rig look cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another reason I changed the radiator holes to the right side is so that the left ("bottom") GTX680 have more airflow from the bottom fans below the rad, the other way around had no fins under that GPU and it got really bad airflow, now its a lot better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: And yes, I will cut those zip ties when the leak testing is done.






Awesome kcuestag.







Can't wait to see how it looks with the case modded to fit it properly.











Spoiler: @ B NEGATIVE



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 2 Rads in for a test fit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and some ram....not being watercooled tho















Can't wait to see that bad thing setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone heard of this XSPC bay reservoir?

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p8716_XSPC-5-25--Bay-Reservoir-aluminium-front.html

Looking forward to grab one of those, are the materials used to build it good? I don't want it to crack on me, I will use distilled water and silver kill coil. I also looked at the EK ones but they're double the price.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for more pictures of my full build check this thread.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1254410/my-new-x79-rig-building-it-since-march


I LOVE THAT RES!!!





















I Want One NOW!!!.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rkwallace*
> 
> I always liked clear cases but keeping them dust free is a challenge. I had several of them in the past but they are a lot of work. I imagine the task would
> be three fold with all the fans pulling in air over the reservoir. Whatever the case good luck on your build.
> Robin


chears robin & thanks for the advise. already sorted









im having a lot of fun with this one














and i got a pic of the pain efect







the camra just would not get it


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love AMD GPUs but let's be serious here, their current line of CPUs does not compete with Intel's offering for top notch processing. (not knocking them for priceerformance ratio but their overall power). I would love to see AMD launch some processors that knocked the socks off Ivy Bridge or even SB-E.


But AMD has eight cores, Intel only has six. I'd say that makes AMD more powerful


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> But AMD has eight cores, Intel only has six. I'd say that makes AMD more powerful


Eight weak cores versus six strong cores. Take your pick.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Eight weak cores versus six strong cores. Take your pick.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> mall sneek peek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> clear case! yes ugly.
> 
> this ???????????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as they say Epic !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well to me in my head it is and will be. the begining of the wonka Epic thermal tower build :0
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hi peeps and hope you all like


ohh i like


----------



## skitzab1

thanks philly







did u catch the pic of it sitting on top of the vb 1000


----------



## phillyd

Man i cannot wait for you to finish that build Skitz!


----------



## skitzab1

going to take some time coin very low lots of detail and im moving


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> But AMD has eight cores, Intel only has six. I'd say that makes AMD more powerful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight weak cores versus six strong cores. Take your pick.
Click to expand...

Ummm pretty sure it's not about the cores when you're talkin about Intel Hyper Threading. Relax guys we was just kiddin with the whole Intel/AMD thing.









Now back to the watercooling at hand.









~Ceadder


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, check out my matx build. i have to put in a case window and led strip but that will be at a later date. currently sick right now








Build log in sig







please come and check out my first water cooling attempt.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, check out my matx build. i have to put in a case window and led strip but that will be at a later date. currently sick right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log in sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please come and check out my first water cooling attempt.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nicely done







Is that some kind of filter/sponge inside the res?

~Mike


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, check out my matx build. i have to put in a case window and led strip but that will be at a later date. currently sick right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log in sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please come and check out my first water cooling attempt.





Didn't you have green and black sleeved cables?







Either way, nice job.

~mironccr


----------



## MR-e

@pcmoddermike - thanks! yes, that is a sponge inside the res. it came with the res and im using it to hold my kill coil in place so it doesn't bounce around









@mironccr - lol no, not me. i think you're referring to fakeblood. he has a similar tj08e that's also water cooled, but with the sleeved cable scheme like you mentioned.


----------



## jackofhearts495

God, I'm loving all these TJ08E builds.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder... So I have been flipping through a lot of build photos and of the multi pump loops, the pumps are usually right after each other.
> 
> 
> Would there be any benefit of spacing the pumps out through the loop? For example, *Res1 -> Pump1 -> Rad1 -> CPU -> Res2 -> Pump2 -> Rad2-> GPU -> Res1*. Or would that kind of a loop just be unnecessary?


Definitely accurate! I going with this perfect route!, If I were you.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for more pictures of my full build check this thread.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1254410/my-new-x79-rig-building-it-since-march[
> 
> 
> /quote]Mate, Nice setup and color matching!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, check out my matx build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> i have to put in a case window and led strip but that will be at a later date. currently sick right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log in sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please come and check out my first water cooling attempt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, Nice a strategic setup!
Click to expand...


----------



## Fuganater

I've been traveling for work for 2 months and this is what I come back to










Alot of it is for my folding rig and the rest for my TJ11 mod.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I've been traveling for work for 2 months and this is what I come back to
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alot of it is for my folding rig and the rest for my TJ11 mod.


Good. God. :O


----------



## Lazy Bear

A Rosewill Hive PSU?

Whyyyyyy?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I've been traveling for work for 2 months and this is what I come back to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alot of it is for my folding rig and the rest for my TJ11 mod.


Sounds like a personal problem


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I've been traveling for work for 2 months and this is what I come back to
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alot of it is for my folding rig and the rest for my TJ11 mod.


OMG


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> A Rosewill Hive PSU?
> Whyyyyyy?


Cheap and reliable.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I've been traveling for work for 2 months and this is what I come back to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alot of it is for my folding rig and the rest for my TJ11 mod.






Folding rig....TJ-11.....


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Cheap and reliable.


Exactly. Just because it doesn't cost double what it should, doesn't mean its junk.


----------



## Pis

Need, new tube, additional rotary fittings, and cable management :3


----------



## koniu777

My setup in the Cosmos 2


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> My setup in the Cosmos 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Like your setups and beautiful loop.


----------



## koniu777

Thx :thumbup:

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## adam-c

h100 counts right?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam-c*
> 
> h100 counts right?


----------



## PhatFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam-c*
> 
> h100 counts right?


i thought it didn't count, nice build still


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhatFree*
> 
> i thought it didn't count, nice build still


Does it have liquid/water in it and remove heat from something in a computer? Then its welcome here


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> I wonder... So I have been flipping through a lot of build photos and of the multi pump loops, the pumps are usually right after each other. Would there be any benefit of spacing the pumps out through the loop? For example, Res1 -> Pump1 -> Rad1 -> CPU -> Res2 -> Pump2 -> Rad2-> GPU -> Res1. Or would that kind of a loop just be unnecessary?


No one?

I'd rather not make a new thread for such a lame question.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> No one?
> I'd rather not make a new thread for such a lame question.


The best thing to do in most cases is just run the pumps in serial.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> No one?
> I'd rather not make a new thread for such a lame question.


The problem you have is balancing the pumps,serial is better i think,less aggro in the long run.


----------



## mdatmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> No one?
> I'd rather not make a new thread for such a lame question.


There isn't any reason to place the pumps in different points in the loop unless it means less tubing or a better looking loop.
Just run them serially (as opposed to in parallel) and the order they are placed won't matter (as long as the pump you use to prime/fill the system follows a res).


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The best thing to do in most cases is just run the pumps in serial.


I have a question along the same lines. I will be purchasing a dual bay res w/ attached dual pumps. Would putting a 3rd pump at the bottom of the case inbetween my 480 (behind) and 360 (infront) both last two stops before returning to the RES.

I should probably qualify this a lil better... Mountain Mods Ascension Case. Horizontal MB RADs w/ on the bottom


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> No one?
> I'd rather not make a new thread for such a lame question.


Also you don't need a second res, you can run just the first pump to get liquid around the loop.


----------



## derickwm

Yeah get rid of that second res and you'll be fine.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, check out my matx build. i have to put in a case window and led strip but that will be at a later date. currently sick right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log in sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please come and check out my first water cooling attempt.


It's nice to see a Bitspower Cube brother!


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Thank you guys for all the replies. +Rep on all of them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I have a question along the same lines. I will be purchasing a dual bay res w/ attached dual pumps. Would putting a 3rd pump at the bottom of the case inbetween my 480 (behind) and 360 (infront) both last two stops before returning to the RES.
> I should probably qualify this a lil better... Mountain Mods Ascension Case. Horizontal MB RADs w/ on the bottom


That's how the thought arose. I have been looking at a dual bay, dual res, dual pump all in one thing.


----------



## audioholic

Heres some pictures of my planned placement in the Vulcan. I know the res is dirty in this pic..its all cleaned up now and the radiator is all shiny now too!








Is there going to be an issue using a 90 degree right off the reservoir where that 1/4 tubing is? I only plan on running it to my CPU...potentially to my 670 when those waterblocks release.


Does this seem like a good placement for all this stuff? I could have went with a bay res but I got all this water cooling gear for nothing.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Just waiting for my res to show up. Then I shall have everything I need to start puting my loop together. CPU only for now until I finally get around to upgrading to a high end graphics card. I just can't seem to figure out if I want green or red team this go around.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Heres some pictures of my planned placement in the Vulcan. I know the res is dirty in this pic..its all cleaned up now and the radiator is all shiny now too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there going to be an issue using a 90 degree right off the reservoir where that 1/4 tubing is? I only plan on running it to my CPU...potentially to my 670 when those waterblocks release.
> 
> 
> Does this seem like a good placement for all this stuff? I could have went with a bay res but I got all this water cooling gear for nothing.


Shouldn't be a problem.









~Ceadder


----------



## audioholic

Thanks Ceadder
+Rep!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Heres some pictures of my planned placement in the Vulcan. I know the res is dirty in this pic..its all cleaned up now and the radiator is all shiny now too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there going to be an issue using a 90 degree right off the reservoir where that 1/4 tubing is? I only plan on running it to my CPU...potentially to my 670 when those waterblocks release.
> 
> Does this seem like a good placement for all this stuff? I could have went with a bay res but I got all this water cooling gear for nothing.


You know the outlet is on the top right?
The tube on the res is the inlet.
That Eheim is old skool,been around for a long time now,and has different threads to normal WC fittings,did you mate give you the conversion kit also?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You know the outlet is on the top right?
> The tube on the res is the inlet.
> That Eheim is old skool,been around for a long time now,and has different threads to normal WC fittings,did you mate give you the conversion kit also?


Sounds like there is a problem there








~Mike


----------



## mironccr345

@audioholic either way, your rig is going to look nice. Hope your get your "problem" worked out.









~mironccr


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> @audioholic either way, your rig is going to look nice. Hope your get your "problem" worked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~mironccr


You should get +rep for that

~Mike


----------



## audioholic

I have a whole box of stuff I will have to take a look and see about fittings and what not. It is old school..that is kind of why I want to use it. Thanks guys for the information. Im still trying to figure out how this will all work.
+ rep to all


----------



## audioholic

There is a fitting on the pump. The old setup was using 1/2 ID tubing. I don't know if you can see it in the pictures but there is a silver fitting on the pump.








I think I understand what you guys are saying though since that tubing is 1/4. I do not see any other adapters in the box for the 1/2, just some clamps


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That eheim will not thank you if your loop is restrictive,300 lph is half that of a ddc.
Would be nice to have your opinion when you get it going,I had a aquastream xt which is based on that design,I didn't like it....
On the plus side,there are lots of user servicable parts,bearings and rotor section.


----------



## audioholic

I took some pictures of what I have. Not the best pictures but hopefully you guys can see whats going on.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That pump looks like its done some miles....


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> I LOVE THAT RES!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Want One NOW!!!.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Mate, Nice setup and color matching


thanks


----------



## kcuestag

How safe is it to run a pair of GTX680's with universal GPU core blocks?

Would it be safe for the vrm's to not have anything cooling them? Don't feel too safe doing that, but damn, the full cover blocks are so expensive.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How safe is it to run a pair of GTX680's with universal GPU core blocks?
> Would it be safe for the vrm's to not have anything cooling them? Don't feel too safe doing that, but damn, the full cover blocks are so expensive.


You at least want to put heat sinks on the Mem/Vrms if not using a full cover block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How safe is it to run a pair of GTX680's with universal GPU core blocks?
> Would it be safe for the vrm's to not have anything cooling them? Don't feel too safe doing that, but damn, the full cover blocks are so expensive.


If you use these..

like this.









then all it needs is air movement in the case to cool


----------



## audioholic

Yea it was in a separate room...I never saw it in person but it just collected dust and the length of tubing that was attached was just nuts!


----------



## SenorRed

22/m/tx

Gator bowls are delicious.


----------



## wermad

^^^^
















just got an email from FrozenQ my helix res is delayed, again. With the up coming holiday it looks like I won't be able to finish my loop until the week after next





















.

Might be able to run a T-line for now since my psu arrives tomorrow


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just got an email from FrozenQ my helix res is delayed, again. With the up coming holiday it looks like I won't be able to finish my loop until the week after next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Might be able to run a T-line for now since my psu arrives tomorrow


Is it wrong that I wanted to put a helix res in my build just for looks, not really as anything functional...lol


----------



## derickwm

Do you have a build log for your new case/build wermad?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Is it wrong that I wanted to put a helix res in my build just for looks, not really as anything functional...lol


For the pure eye-candy its worth it imho








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Do you have a build log for your new case/build wermad?


Nah, I didn't feel compelled to do one this time around. Nothing extreme other than bolt on stuff and I spray painted the Elysium. I post pics in the Elysium club though


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> For the pure eye-candy its worth it imho


Need more Bays.... Aaaaahhh... (No 10 is not enough...)

Hmm Eye Candy... Awesome name for an Awesome Build


----------



## phillyd

got my res cover and more from Dwood, check my build log in the sig please


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just got an email from FrozenQ my helix res is delayed, again. With the up coming holiday it looks like I won't be able to finish my loop until the week after next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Might be able to run a T-line for now since my psu arrives tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it wrong that I wanted to put a helix res in my build just for looks, not really as anything functional...lol
Click to expand...

Actually you'd be surprise just how functional a helix Res is. I've got no bubbles in mine at all and the Helices are reasonably solid for anti-cyclone device. This is just my opinion though. In my experience these Res's have more function than we're led to believe.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> got my res cover and more from Dwood, check my build log in the sig please


Man I gotta get one of these with an ROG logo on the other side.







In Black of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually you'd be surprise just how functional a helix Res is. I've got no bubbles in mine at all and the Helices are reasonably solid for anti-cyclone device. This is just my opinion though. In my experience these Res's have more function than we're led to believe.


That may be, but from my understanding they do not have the capability to put the pumps right on/in them like the Koolance 452X2


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just got an email from FrozenQ my helix res is delayed, again. With the up coming holiday it looks like I won't be able to finish my loop until the week after next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Might be able to run a T-line for now since my psu arrives tomorrow


I just got the same email. After waiting for nearly 3 weeks already it really is a let down.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually you'd be surprise just how functional a helix Res is. I've got no bubbles in mine at all and the Helices are reasonably solid for anti-cyclone device. This is just my opinion though. In my experience these Res's have more function than we're led to believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That may be, but from my understanding they do not have the capability to put the pumps right on/in them like the Koolance 452X2
Click to expand...

Well the Bay Res's have an adapter that you add for your choice of pumps. DDC or D5.

My Res is directly in line with my Dual DDC setup. So I'm not sure that's entirely accurate. I would love to do one of their Bay Res's with a DDC on it but the cost is prohibitive of that for my build imho. Not to mention I'd have to figure out how to connect the radiator to it and then figure out how I would fill it as well. I'm gonna add a Bay Res but it's more for Fillport Res duty than Flow duty.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I asked Alex if he could do the side ports on the top cap of my res, so I did expect a some extra time. Still, these reservoirs are gorgeous and they're worth the wait


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well the Bay Res's have an adapter that you add for your choice of pumps. DDC or D5.
> -snip-
> ~Ceadder


Indeed, but with the way they're oriented, you'd have to use a 90* fitting right off the pump. Does that not bug anyone else?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I asked Alex if he could do the side ports on the top cap of my res, so I did expect a some extra time. Still, these reservoirs are gorgeous and they're worth the wait


Very true. I didn't ask for anything custom, I just ordered a simple 250mm UV blue helix res. It's still taken nearly 3 weeks and now there's a delay.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Very true. I didn't ask for anything custom, I just ordered a simple 250mm UV blue helix res. It's still taken nearly 3 weeks and now there's a delay.


wow. yeah, I've heard they can get backed up. My first res was a florescent 250mm helix. It was in my hands in two weeks. I guess with all the promos FrozenQ ran and they did one more recently they were swamped with orders,







. I'm going on three weeks now but I understand and will be happy to wait. It was nice of them to send out a message that they are backed up. Hmmmm....I shall expect some gummies







(j/k)


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> wow. yeah, I've heard they can get backed up. My first res was a florescent 250mm helix. It was in my hands in two weeks. I guess with all the promos FrozenQ ran and they did one more recently they were swamped with orders,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm going on three weeks now but I understand and will be happy to wait. It was nice of them to send out a message that they are backed up. Hmmmm....I shall expect some gummies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (j/k)


Haha, gummies from FrozenQ would be interesting to say the least. It's always good for a company to let you know when there will be a delay rather than just leaving you in the dark.


----------



## skitzab1

i have a lot of work to do







cleaning up !



[/URL


----------



## PhatFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Does it have liquid/water in it and remove heat from something in a computer? Then its welcome here


but it is closed, and isn't custom, or routed by hand, its still amazing, i just count it as a cpu cooler,


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhatFree*
> 
> but it is closed, and isn't custom, or routed by hand, its still amazing, i just count it as a cpu cooler,


By definition, water cooling doesn't have to be custom or routed by hand. It just has to use water to exchange heat which the H100 does.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> By definition, water cooling doesn't have to be custom or routed by hand. It just has to use water to exchange heat which the H100 does.


2nd that


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

hey guys do you know is a 240mm rad will fit in the front of the silverstone ps07 case? im drawn between the ps07 and using my existing 240mm rad or getting the silverstone tejmin and buying new rads.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELEKTRIK_BLUE*
> 
> hey guys do you know is a 240mm rad will fit in the front of the silverstone ps07 case? im drawn between the ps07 and using my existing 240mm rad or getting the silverstone tejmin and buying new rads.


From the pictures, it looks like you'd have to cut into the drive bays a bit. It barely fits 2x120mm fans alone up front.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> From the pictures, it looks like you'd have to cut into the drive bays a bit. It barely fits 2x120mm fans alone up front.


thats what i was thinking but pictures can be deceiving sometimes. i figured it was wise to ask if anyone has one or has tried it. i think im going to just opt for the tejmin and wait to sell the sig rig to get a 670 and build my folding rig


----------



## carrotman

Has anyone here done a fan-rad-fan-rad sandwich? I want to redesign my case design before I build it to have more rad space, but I don't know if the hot air from the first rad would heat up the second rad instead of cool it. Will I see any benefit if that happens? Would I run them in serial or parallel? Both rads would be 180mm btw.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> Has anyone here done a fan-rad-fan-rad sandwich? I want to redesign my case design before I build it to have more rad space, but I don't know if the hot air from the first rad would heat up the second rad instead of cool it. Will I see any benefit if that happens? Would I run them in serial or parallel? Both rads would be 180mm btw.


it will heat it up but not by much. i saw a post someplace that had some data from a test were a guy had sandwiched rads and fans and a dual rad triple fan sandwich performed the best. as far as doing it goes i would use some all thread rod in the required thread for your rads and a few couplers of the same thread. put the couplers inside the fan body(where the bolt goes through the fan housing) and thread the cut lengths of all thread rod into them and use the coupler to screw the rads together. it is tricky but can be done. i have never done it but id imagine with the right hardware and patience it can be done with little challenge.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> Has anyone here done a fan-rad-fan-rad sandwich? I want to redesign my case design before I build it to have more rad space, but I don't know if the hot air from the first rad would heat up the second rad instead of cool it. Will I see any benefit if that happens? Would I run them in serial or parallel? Both rads would be 180mm btw.


Look for "sate200" , hes a member on this thread and his old Case had a sandwhich like you are talking about.


----------



## brollann

My case as it stands today.








































Caselabs M8
2x XSPC RX 360 rad.
Dual D5 in serie.
Ek waterblocks on cpu and gfx.
Ek fittings.
Alphacool dualbay res.
GT AP-15 fans on radiator, enermax casefans, bequiet 140mm fan for pedestal.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus


----------



## derickwm

Pics don't work :/


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How safe is it to run a pair of GTX680's with universal GPU core blocks?
> Would it be safe for the vrm's to not have anything cooling them? Don't feel too safe doing that, but damn, the full cover blocks are so expensive.


I would not bother. I was is the same dilemma when i had 2 cards. If you want the power of 2 GPUs and want to water cool still but spending $200+ in just blocks your best bet is to get the Dual GPU alternative. For GTX680s is GTX690. Also try to stick to 1 GPU. Water Cooling 2 GPUs is a lot of money.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> Has anyone here done a fan-rad-fan-rad sandwich? I want to redesign my case design before I build it to have more rad space, but I don't know if the hot air from the first rad would heat up the second rad instead of cool it. Will I see any benefit if that happens? Would I run them in serial or parallel? Both rads would be 180mm btw.


The 2nd rad will get hotter air, but you can easily minimize its effect by having the hot water go through the 2nd rad first and then through the 1st radiator.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How safe is it to run a pair of GTX680's with universal GPU core blocks?
> Would it be safe for the vrm's to not have anything cooling them? Don't feel too safe doing that, but damn, the full cover blocks are so expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not bother. I was is the same dilemma when i had 2 cards. If you want the power of 2 GPUs and want to water cool still but spending $200+ in just blocks your best bet is to get the Dual GPU alternative. For GTX680s is GTX690. Also try to stick to 1 GPU. Water Cooling 2 GPUs is a lot of money.
Click to expand...

I don't think that he was asking if he should buy GTX680s' and then watercool them. I believe he is like me. Already HAS the cards and was asking what he should do, Full Coverage or Universal Block them.

Personally it's up to him. If price is an issue and doesn't wish to spend that much then going Universal is the way to go. Especially since they're transferable from one Card to another and they swap over from NVidia to AMD and vice versa quite easily.

But if Looks are an issue, it might be better to go with Full Coverage. Though resale can be a little more difficult.









~Ceadder


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> The 2nd rad will get hotter air, but you can easily minimize its effect by having the hot water go through the 2nd rad first and then through the 1st radiator.


That wouldn't help much at alls since the temperature difference between the intake and exit of the radiator would almost always be very small, less then 1 degree C*.


----------



## ROG1

hai..


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't think that he was asking if he should buy GTX680s' and then watercool them. I believe he is like me. Already HAS the cards and was asking what he should do, Full Coverage or Universal Block them.
> Personally it's up to him. If price is an issue and doesn't wish to spend that much then going Universal is the way to go. Especially since they're transferable from one Card to another and they swap over from NVidia to AMD and vice versa quite easily.
> But if Looks are an issue, it might be better to go with Full Coverage. Though resale can be a little more difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I know he has the GTX680s. If he is going to get messy with Universal blocks might as well consider Antec 620s or forget watercooling them all together. Just blocks and fittings + adapters will probably be $300 and then he will need more RAD and tubing which i personally thing is very expensive if he is on budget.


----------



## GoodInk

Came home from a month of leave first thing when I walked in the door I could here my pump making all sorts of racket. I ran over to my PC thinking the pump was sucking air but it wasn't. I then saw that my dye had turned purple from blood red. So I turned the power down to the pump to see if it was pumping still and it was but didn't seem to have as much power. Then I saw there was a bunch of crap floating in my loop. So I tore everything down and this is what I saw.

You can see how it has mixed here to make a gunk like stuff


The other side of the block


You can see the white crap floating in the coolant


In these you can see everything is coated in it




I'm using distilled water, kill coil, and Mayhem's dye (blood red mix). I'm also using Primochill tubing, it looks like it might have started to cloud on me and the dye mixed in with what ever that white crap is that they are having problems with. So if you are running dye, make sure you watch for plastersizer leaching, even with good dye, it can gunk your blocks up. Everything cleans up easy, but the rad is going to be a pain. I'm hoping vinegar will clean it up. I also need to clean up my GPU block, it's a EK 5870 block and I have never opened one up before, does anyone have any tips for the o-rings or are they not that bad? I know a Rasa block can be a pain if the inner o-ring stretches. I'll take any other tips for cleaning this mess up. I still need to test the pump to see if it was just too much head pressure or if it is dieing on me.


----------



## superericla

Dyes don't clog blocks, dyes just dye whatever junk gets into the loop. In this case, the tubing likely had plasticizer leeching which clogged the blocks. The dye only dyed the plasticizer.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Dyes don't clog blocks, dyes just dye whatever junk gets into the loop. In this case, the tubing likely had plasticizer leeching which clogged the blocks. The dye only dyed the plasticizer.


Right click on the first pic and click view image to see it full res. You'll see that they mixed, this is why the color of my dye had changed.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Right click on the first pic and click view image to see it full res. You'll see that they mixed, this is why the color of my dye had changed.


Really the only point I intended to get across was that the dye didn't cause the blockage








I hope you get it all cleaned up and sorted out.


----------



## RushMore1205

sneak peak of one part that is in an upcoming build


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Right click on the first pic and click view image to see it full res. You'll see that they mixed, this is why the color of my dye had changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really the only point I intended to get across was that the dye didn't cause the blockage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you get it all cleaned up and sorted out.
Click to expand...

No, but I don't think it would have happened with out it. The plasticizer alone will not cause blockage, but put dye in the mix and wow. The tubing it's self doesn't look all that bad. I've had way worse in the past that had no problems getting caught in the same CPU block just using straight distilled water. I just want to warn people to watch for the plasticizer if they use dyes as the two can be very bad if gone uncheck like my system did. I will never leave my system running long term un checked again, I'm triple checking that next time.


----------



## TheOx

My turn!









Picture quality not the best, accidently had the image quality set to low, only got my new camera today, go easy now...


----------



## Willhemmens

Here's a couple shots of the upgrades. Waiting on my GTX680 to arrive so I can get a waterblock on that and complete the loop.


























I'm uploading a video to Youtube to give a better example of how it looks.


----------



## rotary7

that stuff looks really cool, what is it?


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> that stuff looks really cool, what is it?


Looks like Mayhems Aurora dye
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/en/mayhem-s-aurora/31-mayhems-aurora-extinction-green-coolant-609224350795.html


----------



## Willhemmens

Yes, it's Mayhems Aurora Extinction Green coolant.

Here's the Youtube video.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Yes, it's Mayhems Aurora Extinction Green coolant.


Looks great, its only for short term use though, isn't it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Yes, it's Mayhems Aurora Extinction Green coolant.
> 
> Here's the Youtube video.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks disgusting bro. But in a good way.









~Ceadder


----------



## rotary7

aren't you afraid it will stain/clog your loop? i always stick with just distilled water


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Looks great, its only for short term use though, isn't it?


It's meant to be but I thought what the hell, I'll try it. I spoken to Lee from Mayhems quite abit and says some have had it last for over 6 months so I'll give it a go. If not, I'll go Pastel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks disgusting bro. But in a good way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ha yeah, I know what you mean








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> aren't you afraid it will stain/clog your loop? i always stick with just distilled water


Nope, the Aurora particles are super tiny, there's no risk of blockages really unless you have a filter and in that case, you just have to remove it. I've only ever used Distilled water before this too.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> No, but I don't think it would have happened with out it. The plasticizer alone will not cause blockage, but put dye in the mix and wow. The tubing it's self doesn't look all that bad. I've had way worse in the past that had no problems getting caught in the same CPU block just using straight distilled water. I just want to warn people to watch for the plasticizer if they use dyes as the two can be very bad if gone uncheck like my system did. I will never leave my system running long term un checked again, I'm triple checking that next time.


Just saw that :


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Just saw that :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've always read that Primochills tubing is the best to get, and was planning to get that. Now after these problems, what kind of clear tubing is recommended for using with dyes?

I want 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD and I'm going to use either Ice Dragon Cooling fluid of the Mayhems Pastel white, and I'm looking for what tubing works best without clouding.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Here's a couple shots of the upgrades. Waiting on my GTX680 to arrive so I can get a waterblock on that and complete the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm uploading a video to Youtube to give a better example of how it looks.


Hemmens, its so schweet!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> I've always read that Primochills tubing is the best to get, and was planning to get that. Now after these problems, what kind of clear tubing is recommended for using with dyes?
> I want 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD and I'm going to use either Ice Dragon Cooling fluid of the Mayhems Pastel white, and I'm looking for what tubing works best without clouding.


I'm using XSPC tubing at the minute and seems fine although I only installed it yesterday.
If you're not using comps, get Clearflex60 that's all Mayhems use so it's tested to be fine with Mayhems coolants.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Hemmens, its so schweet!


Thanks!


----------



## skitzab1

back live







http://www.ustream.tv/channel/skitzab1-live-stream-modding


----------



## wermad

Smexxy Willhemmens









Must resist..............temptation............to go back to.............dyes.......noooooooooooooooooooooooooo..........damn......................stupid plasticizing.............freak'en.............tube!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Smexxy Willhemmens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must resist..............temptation............to go back to.............dyes.......noooooooooooooooooooooooooo..........damn......................stupid plasticizing.............freak'en.............tube!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


If it's what Mayhem uses, I may give Clearflex60 a try.

Any idea if they do anything else to prep a loop before testing their dyes (to avoid clouding, etc.)?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> If it's what Mayhem uses, I may give Clearflex60 a try.
> Any idea if they do anything else to prep a loop before testing their dyes (to avoid clouding, etc.)?


Mike from Mayhems didn't mentioned anything about prep but I guess it wouldn't hurt to flush the tube or something. I'm tired of spending money into this pithole so I'm sticking with the colored tube I got from Primochill.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Where can one find Clearflex, I found their page but didn't see a purchasing option and as of yet haven't found it elsewhere either.

Never mind found it second after I posted...lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mike from Mayhems didn't mentioned anything about prep but I guess it wouldn't hurt to flush the tube or something. I'm tired of spending money into this pithole so I'm sticking with the colored tube I got from Primochill.


Mick (not mike) just flushes with DI water but that's standard anyway..
As long as there is no Cu based biocide in the loop,you should be ok.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Mick (not mike) just flushes with DI water but that's standard anyway..
> As long as there is no Cu based biocide in the loop,you should be ok.


His pm's said "Michael", we call Michaels "Mike" for short on this side of the pond







He didn't mind when I addressed him that way


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> His pm's said "Michael", we call Michaels "Mike" for short on this side of the pond
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He didn't mind when I addressed him that way


Ah,that explains it....
We all call him Mick.......amongst other things.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ah,that explains it....
> We all call him Mick.......amongst other things.


He's a very cool dude. Very helpful and was very supportive of my comparison. I guess that's why they decided to improve the luminosity of the UV dyes as he agreed the Feser was slightly better under uv light (my conclusion back then). I still love their products, I just can't sort this damn clear tube plasticizing $h17


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

My loops


Close up of the HF


Close up of the chipset block


Close up of the GPU block


Both Stealthres' filled



Fans


----------



## B NEGATIVE

edit: nvm

I do love BTX...the right way up.


----------



## Krahe

Very nice work B&B, love the way you mounted your 2 res's, thinking outside the square.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

2 res for 2 loops








CPU and motherboard block on the 240mm
GPU on a 360mm that is on the other side.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> He's a very cool dude. Very helpful and was very supportive of my comparison. I guess that's why they decided to improve the luminosity of the UV dyes as he agreed the Feser was slightly better under uv light (my conclusion back then). I still love their products, I just can't sort this damn clear tube plasticizing $h17


Cool...you mean mental right??
I can direct you to a teamspeak server we frequent,you can talk to him in all his dribbling lunacy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> 2 res for 2 loops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU and motherboard block on the 240mm
> GPU on a 360mm that is on the other side.


Yeah,I am on my phone so the pic is tiny,had to go back with some zoom action as it just didn't look right.
The empty tube on the first res threw me,I thought it was a fillport.


----------



## derickwm

What's up with one of your CPU block mounting screws missing?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ah,that explains it....
> We all call him Mick.......amongst other things.
> 
> 
> 
> He's a very cool dude. Very helpful and was very supportive of my comparison. I guess that's why they decided to improve the luminosity of the UV dyes as he agreed the Feser was slightly better under uv light (my conclusion back then). I still love their products, I just can't sort this damn clear tube plasticizing $h17
Click to expand...

He was very cool with me and my problems I ran in to with my tubing, he even offered me free dye but I turned him down as it was his product that caused the problem. He gets big







in my book.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What's up with one of your CPU block mounting screws missing?


Well spotted, didnt notice that, if "Wheres Wally" ever comes to PC I'm joining your team.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What's up with one of your CPU block mounting screws missing?


EK sent 3 correct standoffs and one that was shorter with no threads, I'm working with EK to get the correct standoff sent out.


----------



## mdatmo

B&B you loops look amazing! But why is the CPU block only mounted with 3 of 4 bolts? NVM answered above.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What's up with one of your CPU block mounting screws missing?
> 
> 
> 
> Well spotted, didnt notice that, if "Wheres Wally" ever comes to PC I'm joining your team.
Click to expand...

Hehe







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What's up with one of your CPU block mounting screws missing?
> 
> 
> 
> EK sent 3 correct standoffs and one that was shorter with no threads, I'm working with EK to get the correct standoff sent out.
Click to expand...

Ah that's too bad.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> My loops
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the HF
> 
> Close up of the chipset block
> 
> Close up of the GPU block
> 
> Both Stealthres' filled
> 
> 
> Fans


I ain't here to brown noser after moderators







, but wondering this is clampless loop? But your clampless loop rig is soo beautiful and EPIC!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> I ain't here to brown noser after moderators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but wondering this is clampless loop? But your clampless loop rig is soo beautiful and EPIC!


Just use a slightly smaller id tube (ie 7/16" id tube on a 1/2" barb). Dip the tube tips in hot distilled or apply super gently some heat (heat gun be very careful or use a hair dryer on low) to soften the tip of the tube. Helps a lot and once it cools it will make a super tight seal. I do like its super clean looks but I prefer compression


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just use a slightly smaller id tube (ie 7/16" id tube on a 1/2" barb). Dip the tube tips in hot distilled or apply super gently some heat (heat gun be very careful or use a hair dryer on low) to soften the tip of the tube. Helps a lot and once it cools it will make a super tight seal. I do like its super clean looks but I prefer compression


im doing this currently, but will it work with 3/8 tubing?


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> im doing this currently, but will it work with 3/8 tubing?


I use comp fittings but with 3/8 tubing I think it would be hard to get it over a 1/2 barb.

7/16 = 11.1125mm
3/8 = 9.520mm
1/2 = 12.7000mm


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I use comp fittings but with 3/8 tubing I think it would be hard to get it over a 1/2 barb.
> 7/16 = 11.1125mm
> 3/8 = 9.520mm
> 1/2 = 12.7000mm


This.

You're going to stretch that 3/8"a lot on a 1/2". Try to find 7/16" barbs (kinda hard to find). I would just stick with some compression or barbs with clamps, or switch to 1/2" barbs.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This.
> You're going to stretch that 3/8"a lot on a 1/2". Try to find 7/16" barbs (kinda hard to find). I would just stick with some compression or barbs with clamps, or switch to 1/2" barbs.


i already have 7/16
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I use comp fittings but with 3/8 tubing I think it would be hard to get it over a 1/2 barb.
> 7/16 = 11.1125mm
> 3/8 = 9.520mm
> 1/2 = 12.7000mm


im just wondering because i cant seem to find 7/16th with an od of 1/2" or less


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> i already have 7/16
> im just wondering because i cant seem to find 7/16th with an od of 1/2" or less


Am guessing again, but the wall would be to thin and prone to splitting and kinking


----------



## J-Key

The kitchen overclockers... look dangerous...


----------



## wermad

@ mordocai rp: So you are trying to use a 3/8" id tube on a 7/16 barb?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just use a slightly smaller id tube (ie 7/16" id tube on a 1/2" barb). Dip the tube tips in hot distilled or apply super gently some heat (heat gun be very careful or use a hair dryer on low) to soften the tip of the tube. Helps a lot and once it cools it will make a super tight seal. I do like its super clean looks:


Whoa! I've never thought of heat gun or a hair dryer in million years. I had hard time to put barbs into tubing for 30 min - a hour, because ID tube is so smaller.

Thank you for reveal me the secret tips.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I prefer compression


OFC Me, too.. but I currently using the Stainless Steel Clamp and haven't problem w/ it.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ mordocai rp: So you are trying to use a 3/8" id tube on a 7/16 barb?


i want to, i was thinking if i put the end of the tube inhot water and then on the barb itd fit. 7/16 is easy to get on and off a 1/2in barb. But 3/8 on 1/2. Im already using 7/16od on 1/2in barbs


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just use a slightly smaller id tube (ie 7/16" id tube on a 1/2" barb). Dip the tube tips in hot distilled or apply super gently some heat (heat gun be very careful or use a hair dryer on low) to soften the tip of the tube. Helps a lot and once it cools it will make a super tight seal. I do like its super clean looks:
> 
> 
> 
> Whoa! I've never thought of heat gun or a hair dryer in million years. I had hard time to put barbs into tubing for 30 min - a hour, because ID tube is so smaller.
> 
> Thank you for reveal me the secret tips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I prefer compression
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OFC Me, too.. but I currently using the Stainless Steel Clamp and haven't problem w/ it.
Click to expand...

I find the hot water to be a better suggestion (don't hold it under the water too long, if it becomes too soft the hose will bend instead of stretch over the barb) simply because the water also serves as a lubricant to slip the hose over. Once again, that is all personal opinion but if I got the tube hot and tapped it on the cup to get all the water off I had a MUCH harder time getting that hose over the barb simply because of the increased friction. By leaving it wet, I had no issues at all.

I run 7/16" over 1/2" barbs.


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> EK sent 3 correct standoffs and one that was shorter with no threads, I'm working with EK to get the correct standoff sent out.


they did that to me too. they sent me an older revision of their block. it did not contain LGA2011 mounting hardware or the #6 jet.

I have to order them now by them selves. and that will cost like $100 just for the mounting hardware and jet with shipping.


----------



## rotary7

What I do is put a little spit around it







, sorry im old school and spit goes along way


----------



## moutwtrng

Man!, I love this thread and I love all the rigs in it!









I really didnt want to go full water on my rig but I have learned so much from reading through this thread and decided to take the chance...

Here's my rig now (this is as close as i can get to water cooling for now)



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here's the stuff I ordered yesterday evening!







Cant wait!

Order Date: Saturday 26 May, 2012
Products
2 x Zalman ZM-RHS1 Aluminum Passive VGA Memory Cooler $17.00
2 x Bitspower Crystal L-Block - 90 Degree Water Cooling Accessory
- 1/2" Barb Fitting: No Fittings
- 3/8" Barb Fitting: No Fittings $7.90
20 x *** NEW *** PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing -1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD $45.00
1 x (UN)Designs Pump Z2-Bracket (for Laing D4/D5/DDC Pumps) & 120mm Fans - Black $17.99
1 x *** NEW *** Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shiny Triple Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 1/2" OD 3/4" $18.95
1 x Danger Den RAD-Reservoir
- Nozzles: No Nozzles $42.95
3 x *** NEW *** Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shiny Dual Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 1/2" OD 3/4" $44.85
1 x EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel $24.95
1 x Swiftech MCP655™ Series 12 VDC Water Pumps - With Speed Control $76.95
2 x Koolance QDC Extreme Flow No-Spill, Female, For ID: 13mm (1/2"); OD: 19mm (3/4") $27.98
2 x Koolance QDC Extreme Flow No-Spill, Male, For ID: 13mm (1/2"); OD: 19mm (3/4") $25.98
1 x Phobya Radiator Stand - Black - Quad 4x120mm $21.95
1 x *** NEW *** X-Flow Black Ice Pro High Performance Radiator - Black
- Fitting Size: 3/8" OD $33.95
1 x *** HOT *** EK-Supreme HF High Flow CPU Water Block - Full EN (Nickel)
- Fitting Size: 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube $79.99
1 x *** NEW *** XSPC EX480 Copper Quad-Fan Radiator
- Fitting Size: No Fittings $79.95
2 x EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition - Acetal
- Fitting Size: 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube $137.98
1 x EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition - Acetal + EN (Nickel)
- Fitting Size: 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube $71.99
2 x Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, 1/2" x 3/4" Six Pack - Chrome $77.98
1 x Koolance Inline Coolant Filter, 0.27mm Particles [no nozzles] $17.99
Sub-Total: $872.28
United Parcel Service (Ground): $22.41
Discount Coupons: MEMDAY12-75 : -$65.42
Total: $829.27


----------



## Xraze

Congratulations, hoping it will work out for you. I wish I could build my loop atm, still missing a rad.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> Obsidian 800d R.O.G.edition
> 
> more info
> Obsidian 800d R.O.G. -> liberato87 - Xtreme Hardware Forum


update!
new sleeved cables


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> Congratulations, hoping it will work out for you. I wish I could build my loop atm, still missing a rad.


I remember those days. I'd probably still piecemeal my loop together if I had it to do over again. Was a great learning experience. One thing I learned is we got some really outstanding members here on tha OCN.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I find the hot water to be a better suggestion (don't hold it under the water too long, if it becomes too soft the hose will bend instead of stretch over the barb) simply because the water also serves as a lubricant to slip the hose over. Once again, that is all personal opinion but if I got the tube hot and tapped it on the cup to get all the water off I had a MUCH harder time getting that hose over the barb simply because of the increased friction. By leaving it wet, I had no issues at all.
> I run 7/16" over 1/2" barbs.


Use silicone grease









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moutwtrng*
> 
> Man!, I love this thread and I love all the rigs in it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really didnt want to go full water on my rig but I have learned so much from reading through this thread and decided to take the chance...
> Here's my rig now (this is as close as i can get to water cooling for now)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> Here's the stuff I ordered yesterday evening!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant wait!
> Order Date: Saturday 26 May, 2012
> Products
> 2 x Zalman ZM-RHS1 Aluminum Passive VGA Memory Cooler $17.00
> 2 x Bitspower Crystal L-Block - 90 Degree Water Cooling Accessory
> - 1/2" Barb Fitting: No Fittings
> - 3/8" Barb Fitting: No Fittings $7.90
> 20 x *** NEW *** PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing -1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD $45.00
> 1 x (UN)Designs Pump Z2-Bracket (for Laing D4/D5/DDC Pumps) & 120mm Fans - Black $17.99
> 1 x *** NEW *** Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shiny Triple Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 1/2" OD 3/4" $18.95
> 1 x Danger Den RAD-Reservoir
> - Nozzles: No Nozzles $42.95
> 3 x *** NEW *** Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shiny Dual Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 1/2" OD 3/4" $44.85
> 1 x EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel $24.95
> 1 x Swiftech MCP655™ Series 12 VDC Water Pumps - With Speed Control $76.95
> 2 x Koolance QDC Extreme Flow No-Spill, Female, For ID: 13mm (1/2"); OD: 19mm (3/4") $27.98
> 2 x Koolance QDC Extreme Flow No-Spill, Male, For ID: 13mm (1/2"); OD: 19mm (3/4") $25.98
> 1 x Phobya Radiator Stand - Black - Quad 4x120mm $21.95
> 1 x *** NEW *** X-Flow Black Ice Pro High Performance Radiator - Black
> - Fitting Size: 3/8" OD $33.95
> 1 x *** HOT *** EK-Supreme HF High Flow CPU Water Block - Full EN (Nickel)
> - Fitting Size: 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube $79.99
> 1 x *** NEW *** XSPC EX480 Copper Quad-Fan Radiator
> - Fitting Size: No Fittings $79.95
> 2 x EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition - Acetal
> - Fitting Size: 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube $137.98
> 1 x EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition - Acetal + EN (Nickel)
> - Fitting Size: 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube $71.99
> 2 x Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, 1/2" x 3/4" Six Pack - Chrome $77.98
> 1 x Koolance Inline Coolant Filter, 0.27mm Particles [no nozzles] $17.99
> Sub-Total: $872.28
> United Parcel Service (Ground): $22.41
> Discount Coupons: MEMDAY12-75 : -$65.42
> Total: $829.27


Sounds like a tasty build









Btw, you bought some heatsinks for your gpu's vram and vrm? Or, planning to use the stock cooler and mod them it to fit the gpu blocks?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I find the hot water to be a better suggestion (don't hold it under the water too long, if it becomes too soft the hose will bend instead of stretch over the barb) simply because the water also serves as a lubricant to slip the hose over. Once again, that is all personal opinion but if I got the tube hot and tapped it on the cup to get all the water off I had a MUCH harder time getting that hose over the barb simply because of the increased friction. By leaving it wet, I had no issues at all.
> I run 7/16" over 1/2" barbs.
> 
> 
> 
> Use silicone grease
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a tasty build
Click to expand...











An if it gets in the loop?









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Use sillicone grease


Not recommended,you need the friction to hold the tube on.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not recommended,you need the friction to hold the tube on.


True, but its surprising how it does hold. I used that with all my d-plugs applications and through movement (when removing cards) they held quite nice. Maybe a super light application on the tip of the barb to get it going. That way you avoid creating a layer of grease. Some one should try this, though not in their main rig


----------



## moutwtrng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Use silicone grease
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a tasty build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, you bought some heatsinks for your gpu's vram and vrm? Or, planning to use the stock cooler and mod them it to fit the gpu blocks?


Thanks! Naw, Im just going to stick it to the vrm and not use the cooler. I was planning to get a full block but they dont make any for the sapphire 6950 flex cards. Im really trying to go for the quietest (if thats a word) method possible

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I remember those days. I'd probably still piecemeal my loop together if I had it to do over again. Was a great learning experience. One thing I learned is we got some really outstanding members here on tha OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Very true! Everyone is almost always willing to help out, compared to other forums....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> Congratulations, hoping it will work out for you. I wish I could build my loop atm, still missing a rad.


Thanks!


----------



## Kuya Jun

I should have join the club before I started my second build....


----------



## GoodInk

Well the hits keep coming, looks like I have a bad pump. I hope EK comes through for me.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

use soap, it works as a good temporary lube as well as reduces the surface tension of the water and that helps keep down the nasty biological stuff.


----------



## GoodInk

Looks like the impeller was hitting the housing too.


----------



## wermad

wip





Case has *not* but hacked


----------



## RushMore1205

@wermad

What PSU is that, never heard of that brand


----------



## jellis142

It looks like a Kingwin Lazer, pretty well known, at least I thought.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> @wermad
> What PSU is that, never heard of that brand


Kingwin Lazer Gold LZG-1000. I got it off ebay for $100







used only a few hours. No warranty though, so I gotta make sure I don't kill it with the sleeving








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> It looks like a Kingwin Lazer, pretty well known, at least I thought.


Yup, its a good maker. Some of their newer units are good. Not super duper awesome top of the line but they get the job done at a great price


----------



## rotary7

yeah there good psu


----------



## superericla

$100 for a 1KW PSU? I'd buy that.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> $100 for a 1KW PSU? I'd buy that.


With no warranty? I wouldn't.

BTW wermad, I was watching that same eBay listing. Was _this_ close to bidding until I noticed that the warranty sticker was torn.









I'm happy with my Kingwin Lazer Platinum 1000W and Gold 850W. Great PSUs.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

What I've been up too all day


----------



## btfreaker

wish I wasnt so poor and could do this


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> With no warranty? I wouldn't.


He was sleeving it anyway


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> With no warranty? I wouldn't.
> BTW wermad, I was watching that same eBay listing. Was _this_ close to bidding until I noticed that the warranty sticker was torn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm happy with my Kingwin Lazer Platinum 1000W and Gold 850W. Great PSUs.


Link broken







. Might have been. Same seller sold a PP&C 1.2kw for $160.00. It was a review sample. I knew I was going to open it up to sleeve the fixed cables so the broken warranty sticker was not a deal breaker for me. This guy had an hx850 for ~$100 but it was missing some of the modular cables. By the time I decided to get it, it was gone







. Lots of good psu selling lately. Can't same the same here on ocn market








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> What I've been up too all day
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btfreaker*
> 
> wish I wasnt so poor and could do this


Same here


----------



## xNAPx




----------



## Hoodz

My Temporary system until my main system is done


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> He was sleeving it anyway


So? Doesn't mean it voids the warranty. I've asked Corsair, SeaSonic, OCZ, PC Power & Cooling, and Kingwin. All of which say that as long as I don't open up the housing, the warranty stays valid.

I think Antec and Thermaltake are the only ones that I've asked which said otherwise.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> So? Doesn't mean it voids the warranty. I've asked Corsair, SeaSonic, OCZ, PC Power & Cooling, and Kingwin. All of which say that as long as I don't open up the housing, the warranty stays valid.
> I think Antec and Thermaltake are the only ones that I've asked which said otherwise.


To me, the above picture looks like the sleeving goes inside the PSU. If this is not the case, then yes, I dont see why it would void the warranty. Would be a sad day if you had to RMA a fully sleeved PSU though


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> To me, the above picture looks like the sleeving goes inside the PSU. If this is not the case, then yes, I dont see why it would void the warranty. Would be a sad day if you had to RMA a fully sleeved PSU though


This time I bought 3:1 heatshrink which helps a ton, but there are still really thin wires to don't bite with this heatshrink. So some of the sleeve got pulled. I'll try to push them back in. For now, sleeving is done so I'm really relieved I have crossed this hurdle. I got lots of wire management to do but since I has no res







, I can't start plumbing the loop. I took careful calculations, the type that ensures the psu did fit without hacking the case







, so plumbing shouldn't be an issue. The pump is inside one of the Xigmatek hdd cages











That sli bridge looks very crappy. Might spray it or add some matte black vinyl sticker.


----------



## derickwm

Can we start a fund to buy wermad a new camera?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Can we start a fund to buy wermad a new camera?


A decent camera is cheaper than a decent reservoir


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I find the hot water to be a better suggestion (don't hold it under the water too long, if it becomes too soft the hose will bend instead of stretch over the barb) simply because the water also serves as a lubricant to slip the hose over. Once again, that is all personal opinion but if I got the tube hot and tapped it on the cup to get all the water off I had a MUCH harder time getting that hose over the barb simply because of the increased friction. By leaving it wet, I had no issues at all.
> I run 7/16" over 1/2" barbs.


Mate, Yeah i got it and good idea! thanks for your awesome advice and another tips, I really appreciated it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Can we start a fund to buy wermad a new camera?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> A decent camera is cheaper than a decent reservoir


Meh, I know a lot of you are super anal about cameras and pics. I don't care tbh. as long as you can see the rig, I'm happy. God, seems like everyone is into cameras these days. Even at work, most guys are into cameras and I'm the lone pc guy







. Where they spend a couple of grand on a lens, I spend it on a new rig









btw, I'm using a decent Nikon s570, i just suck at taking pics. Oh, and I know about the ocn camera pic taking tutorial.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Meh, I know a lot of you are super anal about cameras and pics. I don't care tbh. as long as you can see the rig, I'm happy. God, seems like everyone is into cameras these days. Even at work, most guys are into cameras and I'm the lone pc guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Where they spend a couple of grand on a lens, I spend it on a new rig


I swing both ways... I just cant afford both... sometimes either.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Can we start a fund to buy wermad a new camera?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> A decent camera is cheaper than a decent reservoir
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Meh, I know a lot of you are super anal about cameras and pics. I don't care tbh. as long as you can see the rig, I'm happy. God, seems like everyone is into cameras these days. Even at work, most guys are into cameras and I'm the lone pc guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Where they spend a couple of grand on a lens, I spend it on a new rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, I'm using a decent Nikon s570, i just suck at taking pics. Oh, and I know about the ocn camera pic taking tutorial.
Click to expand...

Oh fine. We just want to see justice done to your awesome/many rigs


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I swing both ways... I just cant afford both... sometimes either.


My co worker was telling me about his $3k camera. I was like, wow, that's a dream build for me









I try playing around with the flash, which is what most ppl tell me affects my pics towards crappyhood, but its still crappy







. I'll muster some time to practice and I'll take some nice looking pics once this build is complete. I didn't start a log so I'll post my stuff here.

I'll just use my new trendy camera phone:


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My co worker was telling me about his $3k camera. I was like, wow, that's a dream build for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I try playing around with the flash, which is what most ppl tell me affects my pics towards crappyhood, but its still crappy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll muster some time to practice and I'll take some nice looking pics once this build is complete. I didn't start a log so I'll post my stuff here.
> I'll just use my new trendy camera phone:


I never spent 3 grand on a camera, but I used to have a $1000 one... 10yrs back 8MP top of the line at the time.


----------



## l3eans

oops double


----------



## l3eans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btfreaker*
> 
> wish I wasnt so poor and could do this


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Same here


Don't lie wermad, explain where three 560ti's and the watercooling setup came from


----------



## crunkosaur

Update to my previous rig:

New ASUS Maximus IV Extreme Z-68
New Corsair 850W Gold
New Red Primochill UV 1/4



Spoiler: More Pics!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moutwtrng*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Use silicone grease
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a tasty build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, you bought some heatsinks for your gpu's vram and vrm? Or, planning to use the stock cooler and mod them it to fit the gpu blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Naw, Im just going to stick it to the vrm and not use the cooler. I was planning to get a full block but they dont make any for the sapphire 6950 flex cards. Im really trying to go for the quietest (if thats a word) method possible
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I remember those days. I'd probably still piecemeal my loop together if I had it to do over again. Was a great learning experience. One thing I learned is we got some really outstanding members here on tha OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Very true! Everyone is almost always willing to help out, compared to other forums....
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> Congratulations, hoping it will work out for you. I wish I could build my loop atm, still missing a rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...

Maybe you might Universal your cards. I think that's what I'm gonna do with mine even though I could do full coverage blocks. Although it's only a little cheaper, I can swap them out from card to card with no issues. Still plan on backplates to keep things lookin tidy though.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> To me, the above picture looks like the sleeving goes inside the PSU. If this is not the case, then yes, I dont see why it would void the warranty. Would be a sad day if you had to RMA a fully sleeved PSU though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I bought 3:1 heatshrink which helps a ton, but there are still really thin wires to don't bite with this heatshrink. So some of the sleeve got pulled. I'll try to push them back in. For now, sleeving is done so I'm really relieved I have crossed this hurdle. I got lots of wire management to do but since I has no res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I can't start plumbing the loop. I took careful calculations, the type that ensures the psu did fit without hacking the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so plumbing shouldn't be an issue. The pump is inside one of the Xigmatek hdd cages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That sli bridge looks very crappy. Might spray it or add some matte black vinyl sticker.
Click to expand...

I like your bridge werm. But if you insist on changing it I'd look at carbon fiber paper/tape. That would look awesome.









Hey man I see where your pump is, where are you gonna mount your Res when it gets in?









~Ceadder


----------



## axipher

Well my Canary Red Rig managed to survive 3 hours of driving around on bumpy roads and a dirt road and didn't spring a leak. Barbs + Zip-ties for the win.

I'm actually start to like the slight clouding of my tubes, makes them look much better in front of the blue LED's from my RAM coolers. Lights up the entire tube and even the MircoRes in my ODD bay can be seen blue through my front mesh panels.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Well my Canary Red Rig managed to survive 3 hours of driving around on bumpy roads and a dirt road and didn't spring a leak. Barbs + Zip-ties for the win.
> 
> I'm actually start to like the slight clouding of my tubes, makes them look much better in front of the blue LED's from my RAM coolers. Lights up the entire tube and even the MircoRes in my ODD bay can be seen blue through my front mesh panels.


nice


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like your bridge werm. But if you insist on changing it I'd look at carbon fiber paper/tape. That would look awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey man I see where your pump is, where are you gonna mount your Res when it gets in?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Res will b between the drive bays and the mb. The pump is still going in the drive bays but its gonna be a pita to feed water too initially. I'm thinking of putting it down in the front of the drive bays since there's a bit of room left there.

I added some matte black vinyl to the bridge to make it look batter. Its one I got off ebay since the oem one's are typically nasty black-brown


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

hey guys im starting the planing for a new build. do you guys think a majicool 180mm rad in push pull with a 120mm ex120 in push pull would be able to keep a i7 2600k at 4.9ghz with 1.46v at or below 60c with a gtx 670? right now i have an ex240mm rad in my sig rig keeping it at the same speed and voltage at about 57c max temp. im hoping that it will work well plus im going to be using the raystorm block with a mcp 355 pump. any suggestions? the rig will be folding 24/7.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELEKTRIK_BLUE*
> 
> hey guys im starting the planing for a new build. do you guys think a majicool 180mm rad in push pull with a 120mm ex120 in push pull would be able to keep a i7 2600k at 4.9ghz with 1.46v at or below 60c with a gtx 670? right now i have an ex240mm rad in my sig rig keeping it at the same speed and voltage at about 57c max temp. im hoping that it will work well plus im going to be using the raystorm block with a mcp 355 pump. any suggestions? the rig will be folding 24/7.


Ummmm no.









C'mon man a 180 Rad should be able to handle the CPU sub 60c. Adding another 180 and a 120 should easily keep a CPU and a GPU below 60c. Only wish I had the room in my case without cutting it.









~Ceadder


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ummmm no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> C'mon man a 180 Rad should be able to handle the CPU sub 60c. Adding another 180 and a 120 should easily keep a CPU and a GPU below 60c. Only wish I had the room in my case without cutting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thats the problem i wont have room to add any more rads. im looking at doing a small matx build inside the silverstone temjin tj08b-e case. i saw it on another build and liked the idea of how small it is but trying to wc it is whats going to be the challenge. personally i hate the case my sig rig is in. its to big and bulky. i want something small. plus if i can pull this off id like to paint it up cool in a s.t.a.l.k.e.r. theme

edit:
if i cant pull it off in that case ill need to find one of similar price that i can make work.


----------



## moutwtrng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Maybe you might Universal your cards. I think that's what I'm gonna do with mine even though I could do full coverage blocks. Although it's only a little cheaper, I can swap them out from card to card with no issues. Still plan on backplates to keep things lookin tidy though.


I think so too. I think thats the most cost effective option when going watercooling is a universal GPU block also perfect for the non reference cards and you dont have to worry about buying new blocks whenever new cards come out...


----------



## moutwtrng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My co worker was telling me about his $3k camera. I was like, wow, that's a dream build for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I try playing around with the flash, which is what most ppl tell me affects my pics towards crappyhood, but its still crappy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll muster some time to practice and I'll take some nice looking pics once this build is complete. I didn't start a log so I'll post my stuff here.
> I'll just use my new trendy camera phone:


Funny you all mentioned this. I used to be a photographer not too long ago. I remember buying nikon lenses from $400 to $5k and actually photography was the one that got me into pc building. I was going to buy a mac for my editing but the money I was planning to spend on it compared to building my own PC was a no brainer... but yeah pc modding is still wayyyy cheaper than photography.


----------



## johnko1

from what meterial have xspc compression fittings been made?I got a few but didn't find any info...


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> from what meterial have xspc compression fittings been made?I got a few but didn't find any info...


Mine were branded black chrome don't know if it's solid chrome or just plated. I haven't managed to chip any of them so I'm not sure but it looks like night quality stuff from what I've seen


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Still doing tons of research into my first water-cooled build and had a couple of newb questions. First, what size tubing do you recommend and does OD really matter that much? I was planning on using 3/8" I'D 5/8" OD tubing with 1/2" barbs; is that OK? Second, I am going to get a Cosmos II but have read that there are fitment issues with 360 rads up top. Can you guys recommend the best 360 rad to use in the top of a Cosmos II? Thanks a lot guys!


----------



## rotary7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Still doing tons of research into my first water-cooled build and had a couple of newb questions. First, what size tubing do you recommend and does OD really matter that much? I was planning on using 3/8" I'D 5/8" OD tubing with 1/2" barbs; is that OK? Second, I am going to get a Cosmos II but have read that there are fitment issues with 360 rads up top. Can you guys recommend the best 360 rad to use in the top of a Cosmos II? Thanks a lot guys!


there is no best rad, its all up to you when it comes down to getting the right fans for the rad. yes always still with 1/2 barbs if you can, that tubing will be fine but why not 3/8 x 1/2 Tubing?


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Mine were branded black chrome don't know if it's solid chrome or just plated. I haven't managed to chip any of them so I'm not sure but it looks like night quality stuff from what I've seen


I got black crome too!I accidentally removed some paint (isn't visible when a hose is attached) and the metal seems to be steel!!Will post picture to give more info


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Still doing tons of research into my first water-cooled build and had a couple of newb questions. First, what size tubing do you recommend and does OD really matter that much? I was planning on using 3/8" I'D 5/8" OD tubing with 1/2" barbs; is that OK? Second, I am going to get a Cosmos II but have read that there are fitment issues with 360 rads up top. Can you guys recommend the best 360 rad to use in the top of a Cosmos II? Thanks a lot guys!


i highly recommend you 1/2" ID 3/4" OD it has great bending radius and wont kink easily....for rad i would go with the xspc ex 360 multi-port its a slim rad which i'm sure could fit in that cosmos 2


----------



## wermad

I tried to ghetto mod a gallon jug as a reservoir and it worked surprisingly well but I'm having all kinds of issues. The pump is not purging and my ssd are not showing up in the bios







. Here we go again






























Ghetto mod ftw:



God! Two more weeks until the FrozenQ res arrives. what a pita


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I tried to ghetto mod a gallon jug as a reservoir and it worked surprisingly well but I'm having all kinds of issues. The pump is not purging and my ssd are not showing up in the bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Here we go again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto mod ftw:
> 
> God! Two more weeks until the FrozenQ res arrives. what a pita


your one brave sucka







ghetto mod ftw still


----------



## rotary7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> I got black crome too!I accidentally removed some paint (isn't visible when a hose is attached) and the metal seems to be steel!!Will post picture to give more info


STEEL?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> STEEL?


I might email XSPC and find out for sure


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> your one brave sucka
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ghetto mod ftw still












I actually bought a G1/4 tap and bit set. I couldn't tap the jug since its thin plastic but I drilled out a couple of holes. I used some spare o-rings and some extensions to seal it


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> from what meterial have xspc compression fittings been made?I got a few but didn't find any info...


I believe they are Brass coated with Black Chrome.

If they were Steel, magnets would stick to them. (I tested with a powerful large rare earth magnet)


----------



## johnko1

ok guys I sanded one sample to test it.Here are some pictures.Well it may be brass,steel has a different colour and and the magnet trick doesn't work


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Added another rad to my loop...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Still doing tons of research into my first water-cooled build and had a couple of newb questions. First, what size tubing do you recommend and does OD really matter that much? I was planning on using 3/8" I'D 5/8" OD tubing with 1/2" barbs; is that OK? Second, I am going to get a Cosmos II but have read that there are fitment issues with 360 rads up top. Can you guys recommend the best 360 rad to use in the top of a Cosmos II? Thanks a lot guys!


Most use 7/16" ID tubing with 1/2" barbs, I have read that some have uses 3/8" ID tubing but you have to use boiling water to heat the tubing so it will stretch over the barb. I'm guessing if you want to remove the tubing you'll have to cut it.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> ok guys I sanded one sample to test it.Here are some pictures.Well it may be brass,steel has a different colour and and the magnet trick doesn't work


Got an email back from XSPC confirming that it is brass plated with chrome


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Got an email back from XSPC confirming that it is brass plated with chrome


Thank you very much!!!This is my 1st w/c loop and I want everything to be perfect.If I had paid that much money (12 comp fittings 1/2ID 3/4OD) for steel fittings I would get mad!

Where can I find rotation angles like ek ones (45/90 degrees) but with black chrome finish to match my compression fittings?


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Thank you very much!!!This is my 1st w/c loop and I want everything to be perfect.If I had paid that much money (12 comp fittings 1/2ID 3/4OD) for steel fittings I would get mad!
> Where can I find rotation angles like ek ones (45/90 degrees) but with black chrome finish to match my compression fittings?


check xspc they had a bunch of black nickle and black chrome fittings last time i had ordered fittings from them. both my fill and drain port are black chrome.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELEKTRIK_BLUE*
> 
> check xspc they had a bunch of black nickle and black chrome fittings last time i had ordered fittings from them. both my fill and drain port are black chrome.


XSPC are yet to produce any rotary fittings but what they do have is some nice stuff


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> XSPC are yet to produce any rotary fittings but what they do have is some nice stuff


+1

I don't know why,but I trust this company a lot.May because they produce great products


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> XSPC are yet to produce any rotary fittings but what they do have is some nice stuff


One of the only companies whose wc stuff I will never buy again. Parts have always been talked up by many, but were nothing more than mediocre in fit and finish, like they were rushed out of the factory. Last parts I bought from XSPC were back in 2010, so hopefully it's stepped up the game since then.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> XSPC are yet to produce any rotary fittings but what they do have is some nice stuff
> 
> 
> 
> One of the only companies whose wc stuff I will never buy again. Parts have always been talked up by many, but were nothing more than mediocre in fit and finish, like they were rushed out of the factory. Last parts I bought from XSPC were back in 2010, so hopefully it's stepped up the game since then.
Click to expand...

Their waterblocks are just fine (Raystorm is the cat's meow right now) however this dual bay d5 res I have had misaligned holes on the right side of it and I had to jerry rig it using some 2 sided tape to get it to stay in it's spot. Other than that though, the product itself works exactly as I hoped it would.

Their radiators are great too. I love my RX360.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Their waterblocks are just fine *(Raystorm is the cat's meow right now*) however this dual bay d5 res I have had misaligned holes on the right side of it and I had to jerry rig it using some 2 sided tape to get it to stay in it's spot. Other than that though, the product itself works exactly as I hoped it would.
> Their radiators are great too. I love my RX360.


From what i've heard it's pretty solid for socket 1155, but not so hot for 2011


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Their waterblocks are just fine *(Raystorm is the cat's meow right now*) however this dual bay d5 res I have had misaligned holes on the right side of it and I had to jerry rig it using some 2 sided tape to get it to stay in it's spot. Other than that though, the product itself works exactly as I hoped it would.
> Their radiators are great too. I love my RX360.
> 
> 
> 
> From what i've heard it's pretty solid for socket 1155, but not so hot for 2011
Click to expand...

Yea, I'd imagine 2011 sockets would need a larger copper block to dissipate the heat. I'm sure Heatkiller 3.0's do well on 2011. HK3.0 was awesome on 775. Had such a bulky bad ass feel to it lol.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea, I'd imagine 2011 sockets would need a larger copper block to dissipate the heat. I'm sure Heatkiller 3.0's do well on 2011. HK3.0 was awesome on 775. Had such a bulky bad ass feel to it lol.


it has to do with the bow of the base of the block. The raystorm is rather severely bowed while others like the supreme have a fairly flat base which allows for a more full contact with the cpu die


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea, I'd imagine 2011 sockets would need a larger copper block to dissipate the heat. I'm sure Heatkiller 3.0's do well on 2011. HK3.0 was awesome on 775. Had such a bulky bad ass feel to it lol.
> 
> 
> 
> it has to do with the bow of the base of the block. The raystorm is rather severely bowed while others like the supreme have a fairly flat base which allows for a more full contact with the cpu die
Click to expand...

So lapping it wouldn't make it a top contender on 2011 as well? Just curious,


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So lapping it wouldn't make it a top contender on 2011 as well? Just curious,


you would have to lap it quite a good bit, not only really shine it up, but dig into the center of the block to make it even with the sides. I'd be interested if someone did that to see the results.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So lapping it wouldn't make it a top contender on 2011 as well? Just curious,
> 
> 
> 
> you would have to lap it quite a good bit, not only really shine it up, but dig into the center of the block to make it even with the sides. I'd be interested if someone did that to see the results.
Click to expand...

It would. I didn't even think to check how concave/convex the surface of the block was. I just put it on there, tightened it up as far as I could without getting that "Think I'll break the motherboard?" feeling and turned her on.


----------



## lloydy

hi all, i think ive put my thread in the wrong place ! could someone help me out please ........

http://www.overclock.net/t/1263193/need-help-on-water-cooling-2-non-reference-xfx-6950s/0_30


----------



## wermad

FrozenQ shipping my res out today!!!! Hopefully it arrives by the weekend


----------



## Lazy Bear

Which res did you get, Wermad?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Which res did you get, Wermad?


250mm blue florescent helix res. I asked them to do some extra side ports on the top. I got their email about their acetal end caps were delayed and hence why orders were delayed. I'm really excited to get this build finished


----------



## superericla

Mine shipped today as well. Since it's shipping via USPS priority mail I believe it should be here by the end of the week.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> It would. I didn't even think to check how concave/convex the surface of the block was. I just put it on there, tightened it up as far as I could without getting that "Think I'll break the motherboard?" feeling and turned her on.


I really didn't either until there was so much hype about 1155. It dawned on my one day that there must be a reason why blocks performed differently on 1155 and 1366 other than tdp so I did some digging and found some reviews. I think skinee has one about the supreme (version 6) that highlights the difference


----------



## superericla

I just made some adjustments to my loop and overclock. I'm now getting 39C max temps on my CPU running IBT with a 3.9GHz overclock.


----------



## derickwm

^Fill in your sig rig info so I don't have to look at your build log every time I want to creep


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ^Fill in your sig rig info so I don't have to look at your build log every time I want to creep


Haha, will do. I just keep forgetting to.








Edit: Sig rig created


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Mine shipped today as well. Since it's shipping via USPS priority mail I believe it should be here by the end of the week.



















Yup, I like that usps will deliver on saturdays







. I'm crossing my fingers it will arrive by then


----------



## superericla

I recently sent an email to the makers of Indigo Extreme asking to review a sample. Today I got an email back not only offering me a sample, but offering a sample of a product they'll be releasing next week.


----------



## derickwm

Congrats!


----------



## superericla

I'm excited to see what it is first of all and of course how it performs. I'm not sure how they can improve on Indigo Extreme but I guess they must have if they're releasing either a new or revised version.








I'll be sure to give an in-depth review and comparison of whatever it is when it arrives.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Does anyone have any recommendations for something simple to
clean my rads, pump and res out other than using boiled distilled water?

also i recently buillt my comp (about 5 months ago) and have FluidXP - Clear -uv blue as my coolant
There is nothing wrong with the coolant ( i have already bought new coolant though) but i am replacing
part of my loop for better flow so i have to empty my loop but was wondering if it is necessary to clean all components or
not.i'd rather just put my new parts in place and not have to clean everything.
the coolant in the res. seems clear and ok (no build up or cloudy patches) so i don't think it would be necessary to clean everything.
how often does everyone else clean their loops and to what extent and what is being used to clean the parts?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations for something simple to
> clean my rads, pump and res out other than using boiled distilled water?
> also i recently buillt my comp (about 5 months ago) and have FluidXP - Clear -uv blue as my coolant
> There is nothing wrong with the coolant ( i have already bought new coolant though) but i am replacing
> part of my loop for better flow so i have to empty my loop but was wondering if it is necessary to clean all components or
> not.i'd rather just put my new parts in place and not have to clean everything.
> the coolant in the res. seems clear and ok (no build up or cloudy patches) so i don't think it would be necessary to clean everything.
> how often does everyone else clean their loops and to what extent and what is being used to clean the parts?


Distilled %5 white vinegar is usually a good choice when cleaning WC components, just be sure to thoroughly flush with distilled water afterwards.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Distilled %5 white vinegar is usually a good choice when cleaning WC components, just be sure to thoroughly flush with distilled water afterwards.


You mean 5% white vinegar to distilled water ratio?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> You mean 5% white vinegar to distilled water ratio?


No, %5 is the acid content of the vinegar itself. I typically flush a few times with just vinegar, then switch to distilled water to ensure the vinegar is all out of my components.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> You mean 5% white vinegar to distilled water ratio?
> 
> 
> 
> No, %5 is the acid content of the vinegar itself. I typically flush a few times with just vinegar, then switch to distilled water to ensure the vinegar is all out of my components.
Click to expand...

I'm fairly certain that is not recommended on nickel plated blocks however. I'm sure EK would blame the flaking on your vinegar


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I'm fairly certain that is not recommended on nickel plated blocks however. I'm sure EK would blame the flaking on your vinegar


I've actually done this with my EK 6970 EN water block. I still haven't had any issues with flaking or corrosion after a few months of use.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I'm fairly certain that is not recommended on nickel plated blocks however. I'm sure *EK would blame* the flaking on your vinegar


They'll blame anything and any one tbh









People have been flushing with a diluted vinegar solution to remove the crap inside the components.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I am currently updating the pic spreadsheet for this thread,please bear with me while this happens.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I recently sent an email to the makers of Indigo Extreme asking to review a sample. Today I got an email back not only offering me a sample, but offering a sample of a product they'll be releasing next week.


Nice, I sent one to the guys that do Clearflex 60, still waiting to hear back Might try indigo too, I was going to go with them anyways...lol Be nice if they had them for gpus too


----------



## bundymania

Little Teaser


----------



## zander89

Already posted up a couple of pics in the Rasa owners club, but i thought i would add my rig to here too. Sorry i dont have a full shot of it. But here are a few nice close ups before my tubing started to cloud ( also i have a gtx 670 in there now instead of the gtx 480 SOC.


----------



## Krahe

Nice Bundy, I did think it was only a matter of time till bitspower matched Monsoon in the color department.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am currently updating the pic spreadsheet for this thread,please bear with me while this happens.


You taking over for Kevin?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You taking over for Kevin?


Could very well be,got to catch up on weeks of pics first tho...


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Little Teaser


WHEN







and will they be releasing their whole line in white?


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Could very well be,got to catch up on weeks of pics first tho...


yea i did a bunch of pages last week lol theres jsut so many posts its crazy i dunno how he did it for so long XD


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Little Teaser
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh noooo, teasing is not good. It would cost me a good chunk to switch all my fittings out for white versions, but dang they would fit in so nice.







Hmm how to explain yet another purchase to the wife


----------



## johnko1

guys is deionized water ok for cleaning and 1-2-3(or more) days of use for benching purposes?I hear about corrosion because of the ions missing....


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> guys is deionized water ok for cleaning and 1-2-3(or more) days of use for benching purposes?I hear about corrosion because of the ions missing....


deionised is fine for a loop. IT wont cause corrosion or at least it will take AGES to corrode anything. Make sure you couple it with some silver kill coil or biocide and you wont have any probs even running it 24/7. People have used it for years with no adverse affects. Its mainly what people in the UK use cos its easier to get hold of than distilled water.

Im using dionised and Mayhem biocide currently


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Oh noooo, teasing is not good. It would cost me a good chunk to switch all my fittings out for white versions, but dang they would fit in so nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm how to explain yet another purchase to the wife


pffffff purchase now - explain later


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> deionised is fine for a loop. IT wont cause corrosion or at least it will take AGES to corrode anything. Make sure you couple it with some silver kill coil or biocide and you wont have any probs even running it 24/7. People have used it for years with no adverse affects. Its mainly what people in the UK use cos its easier to get hold of than distilled water.
> Im using dionised and Mayhem biocide currently


Ok thanks.I have silver coil in loop.I just heard that deionized water will take ions from metals to become neutral again,causing metal corrosion.Well it seems I was wrong.Good,I can buy deionized water from a shop right next to my house,very cheap!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

I ran DI water in my last loop for a little over 2 years with no corrosion so don't worry about the myths.


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Ok thanks.I have silver coil in loop.I just heard that deionized water will take ions from metals to become neutral again,causing metal corrosion.Well it seems I was wrong.Good,I can buy deionized water from a shop right next to my house,very cheap!


dont know about kill coil. If you are worried about theat buy a bottle of PT nuke or mayhem biocide and you should be fine


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> pffffff purchase now - explain later


Haha I like your thinking


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Little Teaser
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh noooo, teasing is not good. It would cost me a good chunk to switch all my fittings out for white versions, but dang they would fit in so nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm how to explain yet another purchase to the wife
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Oh noooo, teasing is not good. It would cost me a good chunk to switch all my fittings out for white versions, but dang they would fit in so nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm how to explain yet another purchase to the wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pffffff purchase now - explain later
Click to expand...

Sneak em in one or two at a time an the wife will never know.









~Ceadder


----------



## mironccr345

^ until she see's the bank statement, then your screwed!


----------



## ROG1

look nice and cool


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Little Teaser




A little progress. Finally cut the Primochill "pearl" or "metallic" (what ever you want to call it) blue tube. I checked the status of the res it shows status "electronic info received" which tells me they printed the label but it hasn't reached the post office yet







. Lame, looks like next week will be it for me


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROG1*
> 
> any one know this water block....look nice and cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah not sure I would run that block unless I was wanting a little more flow at the CPU. It doesn't look that practical considering where most Mainboards are mounted and the positioning of the CPU being in the top half of the case which means that either a reservoir would have to be suspended above it or it would have to be a secondary pump in a loop that is already completed and flowing.









I like the idea but the application is what leaves me with a minor amount of consternation. I guess it would be nice for the next step past an All in One cooler where everything is put together outside the case leak tested within an inch of it's life and then mounted into the case and to the CPU.









~Ceadder


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You taking over for Kevin?


Why not you taking over kev's position? C'mon!


----------



## oceanlyner

Got some 45 degree fittings so I could put my hard drive cage back in, and added the other stock fan for push/pull.



Now I just have to get a 7970 block..


----------



## derickwm

I had been thinking about it for the past couple days actually but if B-Negative wants it, it's all good


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oceanlyner*
> 
> Got some 45 degree fittings so I could put my hard drive cage back in, and added the other stock fan for push/pull.
> 
> Now I just have to get a 7970 block..


Couldn't you flip the radiator around and switch the two ports on the rad to make it look a little cleaner?


----------



## oceanlyner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Couldn't you flip the radiator around and switch the two ports on the rad to make it look a little cleaner?


There's no room, the top of the rad is already flush with the 5.25" bays. I could probably cut the bottom off the 5.25" bay, but that's more modding than I'm comfortable with at the moment...

That long tube does annoy me, but once I get a 7970 block it should look alright.


----------



## superericla

Quick question guys! I'll be receiving around $500 next month and want to know what everyone thinks I should spend it on. I could get a new GPU, such as a 7970 or GTX 680 or get a second 6970. I could get an Ivy Bridge motherboard and CPU. I could get a nice CaseLabs case. Or I could get something completely different. Any thoughts?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quick question guys! I'll be receiving around $500 next month and want to know what everyone thinks I should spend it on. I could get a new GPU, such as a 7970 or GTX 680 or get a second 6970. I could get an Ivy Bridge motherboard and CPU. I could get a nice CaseLabs case. Or I could get something completely different. Any thoughts?


You got some pretty good components but I would love to see an STH-10 build with your name on it


----------



## derickwm

Sell CPU+mobo+6970 get ~$400. Take $400+$500 and buy IB + 7970


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You got some pretty good components but I would love to see an STH-10 build with your name on it


Haha, thanks for the suggestion. The only problem with getting an STH-10 is I'll want to keep adding more and more water cooling gear to fill it up with... not sure if that's really a problem though.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sell CPU+mobo+6970 get ~$400. Take $400+$500 and buy IB + 7970


Definitely a good suggestion. I actually have an extra of this same motherboard I've been looking to sell for a while as well as some headphones. If I can sell that then I'll have enough for IB + motherboard and could sell my current CPU and mobo for money to go towards something else.









What I'll likely do is upgrade to Ivy Bridge and a new motherboard at first, then when my current for sale items get sold, as well as my old motherboard and CPU, I will upgrade to a 7970 and sell my 6970. After all of that I might have enough for a CaseLabs case, if not then I'll have at least half the amount and can save for the rest.


----------



## derickwm

You must wait until July to get your STH10... Can't have one before me


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sell CPU+mobo+6970 get ~$400. Take $400+$500 and buy IB + 7970


+1 although tbh i would hold off on the IB until they sort out the cheap TIM method. Hopfully in the next revision we will see them bring back fluxless solder, but probably not. If you want some beastly OC's without hitting in the 80/90's get your delidding hat on and slap some Coollaboratory Liquid Pro Metal in-between the core and the ISH. Also if you want to save on cost get second hand SB parts and overclock the snot out of it. You wont see any performance difference with the IB over the SB really.

Also you can get the gtx 670's for pretty nice prices over in the US. Make sure you get one with a reference 680 pcb though, like the evga, asus or gigabyte over clock editions. The giga one is $399 with is the same price as a gigabyte 7950 and $100 cheaper than the 7970 version. But the 670 has defo got the edge on the 7950 and the 7970 for the most part as well ( unless you are gaming at resolutions above 1080.) Its the smart buy at the moment considering you need at least 1300-1350 on a 7970 to match a well clocked 670.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You must wait until July to get your STH10... Can't have one before me


It might not even be until August. Either way I'll be sure to let you go first haha.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> +1 although tbh i would hold off on the IB until they sort out the cheap TIM method. Hopfully in the next revision we will see them bring back fluxless solder, but probably not. If you want some beastly OC's without hitting in the 80/90's get your delidding hat on and slap some Coollaboratory Liquid Pro Metal in-between the core and the ISH. Also if you want to save on cost get second hand SB parts and overclock the snot out of it. You wont see any performance difference with the IB over the SB really.
> Also you can get the gtx 670's for pretty nice prices over in the US. Make sure you get one with a reference 680 pcb though, like the evga, asus or gigabyte over clock editions. The giga one is $399 with is the same price as a gigabyte 7950 and $100 cheaper than the 7970 version. But the 670 has defo got the edge on the 7950 and the 7970 for the most part as well ( unless you are gaming at resolutions above 1080.) Its the smart buy at the moment considering you need at least 1300-1350 on a 7970 to match a well clocked 670.


It would be a bit cheaper going with SB parts as well so that might be the better option. That way I would have more left over to buy a better case. I'm very highly considering going Nvidia this time, I haven't had any issues with AMD GPUs but it's always nice to try out both sides at some point and the GTX 670 is a good option, especially for the price point.


----------



## derickwm

Hehehe


----------



## superericla

Weird. The guys that make Indigo Xtreme got back to me again asking for my specific CPU model. I wonder if it has anything to do with what they're sending me... It's too bad I don't know much more than that.


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It might not even be until August. Either way I'll be sure to let you go first haha.
> It would be a bit cheaper going with SB parts as well so that might be the better option. That way I would have more left over to buy a better case. I'm very highly considering going Nvidia this time, I haven't had any issues with AMD GPUs but it's always nice to try out both sides at some point and the GTX 670 is a good option, especially for the price point.


dont get me wrong the 7970 is a beast of a card. I was hovering between that and the 670 i got, could have gone either way. But considering the price it was a no brainer in the end. + the 670's with reference 680 pcbs ( make 100% sure you get the right 670, you dont want one of the stunted little ones







hehe, also means you can whack a 680 waterblock on you card







) with aftermarket cools on them run so dam cool. I can run fully overclocked with my core at 1313 mhz boost, and memory at around 3450 and never break 65 c with the fan on auto ( while running 3dmark11). With the fan on 100% under furmark I hardly even go over 60c!









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125423

its cheaper than the asus









I am assuming you are from the US, ( im from the UK, but i realise im probs in the minority)


----------



## derickwm

Tell them a 3770k and go buy it right nao


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Tell them a 3770k and go buy it right nao


Haha, I would if I had the money right now. I need a job so I can upgrade my computer more, not having a constant income sucks.









Edit: I'm also halfway considering going for SB-E instead of Ivy...


----------



## derickwm

I was going to suggest that but that stretches the budget by a few hundred more dollars. You're a folder right? If so, it'd be worth it









Getting around 40k PPD w/ my 3930k only clocked at 4.1 (Temp H60 sucks...new pump gets here tomorrow) and in Windows. I was getting around 90k PPD, same OC, but in a Linux VM doing bigadv units. But it was kind of unstable, temps would get up to 90s sometimes and cause problems. As I've been attempting to play D3 and fold it wasn't working out so great.


----------



## zander89

tis kinda useless unless you are folding though







or video encoding


----------



## derickwm

I was just using folding as an example, there's tons of reasons to want more raw CPU power.


----------



## superericla

I do some heavy CAD modeling that might benefit a bit from more CPU power. I also fold so of course more CPU power would help.


----------



## zander89

as a general purpose machine for gaming etc it doesnt make much of a difference really. I can understand if you are using programs like final cut, photoshop and you and you are doing a load of video encoding then it will be a winner. I mean for me personally its a waste of cash as SB/IB tend to even perform better in games as they cant utilise 6 cores/ you can generally get a more stable OC on a SB with decent temps.

Edit: just seen the reply, if thats the case then it would probably be for you, i dont use either so my opinion isnt really valid on the matter







But it is also a **** tone of money hehe


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I do some heavy CAD modeling that might benefit a bit from more CPU power. I also fold so of course more CPU power would help.


Once again Derick is successful in convincing people to go unnecessarily big


----------



## zander89

i think there a lot of gfs/wife's who are after your head


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Once again Derick is successful in convincing people to go unnecessarily big


I secretly wanted to anyways.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> i think there a lot of gfs/wife's who are after your head


Or in this case, fiance.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> i think there a lot of gfs/wife's who are after your head


Fuel for the fire baby








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Once again Derick is successful in convincing people to go unnecessarily big
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I secretly wanted to anyways.
Click to expand...

That's the spirit









Your loop is about to get a whole lot larger! The build I'm doing now is the *first* one I have not carefully planned with a full budget. I just don't want to know, ignorance is bliss right?


----------



## superericla

I've never carefully planned any build I've made, they just go however I feel they should at a given time. I'm considering using copper tubing after the upgrade... it just sounds like fun.


----------



## zander89

the excessive use of







is making me smile (which is good as im ill at home and in bed hahaha)


----------



## superericla

Your angry panda is making me smile, might as well return the favor.


----------



## zander89

i just laughed out loud, which resulted in me coughing up my guts. hahahaha nice tangent we are going on here hehe


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I've never carefully planned any build I've made, they just go however I feel they should at a given time. I'm considering using copper tubing after the upgrade... it just sounds like fun.


Copper tubing is just a whole new level of e-peen. I want to do chrome plated so badly, my main concern though is whenever I would need to make changes in the loop it'd be a huge pain. QDCs would be possible but would still be a pain since copper tubing in no way is flexible.

As I haven't completely decided if I'm going to go with copper, uv orange, or clear with dye yet I _may_ do a hybrid. Regular tubing in the top and bottom chambers that aren't seen by the public eye, and then copper tubing in the main compartment of the STH10. Lots of work though...


----------



## superericla

Instead of laughing, I jumped out of my seat as lightning struck close to my house. Thunderous, so very thunderous.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Copper tubing is just a whole new level of e-peen. I want to do chrome plated so badly, my main concern though is whenever I would need to make changes in the loop it'd be a huge pain. QDCs would be possible but would still be a pain since copper tubing in no way is flexible.
> As I haven't completely decided if I'm going to go with copper, uv orange, or clear with dye yet I _may_ do a hybrid. Regular tubing in the top and bottom chambers that aren't seen by the public eye, and then copper tubing in the main compartment of the STH10. Lots of work though...


Interesting thought. You could use some QDCs between the copper tubing and regular tubing if you go that route which would make upgrades easier while still having the cool look of the copper.


----------



## derickwm

Yeah if I did a hybrid that's what I'd do. Have QDCs between each compartment and one end just be the copper and have it turn into regular tubing in the unseen chambers. It'd work well, just gotta decide if the deliciousness that is chrome plated tubing would be worth it. I probably won't be tubing till late June if that so I'm not too concerned right now though.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yeah if I did a hybrid that's what I'd do. Have QDCs between each compartment and one end just be the copper and have it turn into regular tubing in the unseen chambers. It'd work well, just gotta decide if the deliciousness that is chrome plated tubing would be worth it. I probably won't be tubing till late June if that so I'm not too concerned right now though.


Either way I'll be sure to check out your build log to see whatever you end up doing. Any build in a CaseLabs case is worth paying attention to imo.


----------



## derickwm

I'm getting some things straightened out in the next couple weeks and hopefully can start taking some big steps into "Phase 2".


----------



## superericla

I'm still waiting on my FrozenQ reservoir. Hasn't moved one bit since it "shipped", electronic shipping info was received but it never moved an inch. Apart from that, I'm waiting on what the Indigo Xtreme guys send me and I'm planning on switching to Masterkleer tubing with distilled + Mayhem's UV Clear/Blue dye. It should look better with the FrozenQ res than the Mayhem's Pastel I'm using currently.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'm still waiting on my FrozenQ reservoir. Hasn't moved one bit since it "shipped", electronic shipping info was received but it never moved an inch.


That means they printed the label but it hasn't reached the post office or has been scanned by the post. Same here sadly







Doesn't look like it will be here by Saturday, what a shame







. I'll just stick with the mainstream stuff in the future. Really hate waiting almost a month for a part (well, that's custom for yah







)


----------



## derickwm

So far it's sounded like they've just been having a lot of adjustment problems since they had to start manufacturing their own parts. Yeah waiting for a month is definitely not ideal but sometimes we gotta be patient with the little guys


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Weird. The guys that make Indigo Xtreme got back to me again asking for my specific CPU model. I wonder if it has anything to do with what they're sending me... It's too bad I don't know much more than that.


The phase metal TIM they use is CPU specific,they tailor the reflow temp to suit specific TDP's
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Copper tubing is just a whole new level of e-peen. I want to do chrome plated so badly.












I never get bored of putting this up for you...
Spacer are coming today so MOAR piping will be done later.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I had been thinking about it for the past couple days actually but if B-Negative wants it, it's all good


Derick, You don't need to depend other's decisions instead of your own.. . WC things is your truly passionate, and coping with others and noobies if you do care and patient with.

You go and talk Kev. He really looking for a assistance and take his position. that's what he had mentioned me few weeks ago.









Good luck with your decisions!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Derick, You don't need to depend other's decisions instead of your own.. . WC things is your truly passionate, and coping with others and noobies if you do care and patient with.
> You go and talk Kev. He really looking for a assistance and take his position. that's what he had mentioned me few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck with your decisions!


You have a problem with me doing it?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never get bored of putting this up for you...
> Spacer are coming today so MOAR piping will be done later.


Hey!









Get MOAR PICTURES UP!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I had been thinking about it for the past couple days actually but if B-Negative wants it, it's all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Derick, You don't need to depend other's decisions instead of your own.. . WC things is your truly passionate, and coping with others and noobies if you do care and patient with.
> 
> You go and talk Kev. He really looking for a assistance and take his position. that's what he had mentioned me few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck with your decisions!
Click to expand...

Right now isn't that great of a time as I have finals and I'm moving to another state, which is why I haven't approached Kevin yet. If he is still seeking a replacement for whatever reason in two weeks from now I'll be PM'ing him. It's not too big of a deal, I really need to shorten the amount of time per day that I'm on OCN


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have the dog on postie watch,anything comes on my drive,he will be all over it!


----------



## derickwm

Yessss. I don't have any classes today so I can creep your log all day


----------



## GAMERIG

this is truly example!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *You have a problem with me* doing it?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The phase metal TIM they use is CPU specific,they tailor the reflow temp to suit specific TDP's


That's why they sell it based on CPU socket and why they previously asked me for my CPU socket. Now they're asking me for my specific CPU which isn't needed info for the current Indigo Extreme. They're sending me something that hasn't been released yet, who knows how processor specific it may be.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> That's why they sell it based on CPU socket and why they previously asked me for my CPU socket. Now they're asking me for my specific CPU which isn't needed info for the current Indigo Extreme. They're sending me something that hasn't been released yet, who knows how processor specific it may be.


What kind of temperature drop is expected with this product? Performance-pcs said 3-4c, is that about right, or is this new product expected to get better temps?
Either way I sure would like to see some before/after temps.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> this is truly example!


Ok,im not rising to this,you want to put any inflection on written words where there is none,that's your choice.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quick question guys! I'll be receiving around $500 next month and want to know what everyone thinks I should spend it on. I could get a new GPU, such as a 7970 or GTX 680 or get a second 6970. I could get an Ivy Bridge motherboard and CPU. I could get a nice CaseLabs case. Or I could get something completely different. Any thoughts?


Spend it on my GPU blox.









C'mon u know you want to.







lulz










Spoiler: I never get tired of looking at this...















~Ceadder


----------



## quakermaas

Add another Feser 360 to my system.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Spacers came today.....


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spacers came today.....


What board is that?


----------



## derickwm

EVGA SR-2... You been living under a rock for the past few years?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> EVGA SR-2... *You been living under a rock for the past few years?*


This


----------



## Vigilanty

Hey OCN! Thanks for everything you guys are doing and keep it up









I've learned a lot and have enjoyed reading these forums for the past few months. Really love all the build logs and seeing everyone's projects from start to finish. Waaay better than reality TV!

Got a couple rigs I've built recently that I'd like to share. I'm fairly inexperienced in water cooling and overclocking so I'm always open to new ways to do things better. I typically just make enough mistakes to eventually get it right so any shortcuts are appreciated









The first is technically my first water cooled rig but it wasn't a custom loop. I recently sold this to a good friend of mine. I was a bit sad to see it go as I really loved that Sabertooth board.

Quick Specs
600T
Sabertooth 990FX
AMD FX-8120
Corsair H60
ASUS GTX 560 Ti 448
OCZ Agility 3 SSD
8GB Corsair Vengeance DD3 1866





This is my first custom loop. This is still very much a work in progress but it's complete enough to share.

Quick Specs
800D
P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3
Intel 2500K
ASUS GTX 680
2x 120 GB OCZ Agility 3 RAID 0







Hope that's worthy to net me a spot


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vigilanty*
> 
> Hey OCN! Thanks for everything you guys are doing and keep it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've learned a lot and have enjoyed reading these forums for the past few months. Really love all the build logs and seeing everyone's projects from start to finish. Waaay better than reality TV!
> Got a couple rigs I've built recently that I'd like to share. I'm fairly inexperienced in water cooling and overclocking so I'm always open to new ways to do things better. I typically just make enough mistakes to eventually get it right so any shortcuts are appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first is technically my first water cooled rig but it wasn't a custom loop. I recently sold this to a good friend of mine. I was a bit sad to see it go as I really loved that Sabertooth board.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quick Specs
> 600T
> Sabertooth 990FX
> AMD FX-8120
> Corsair H60
> ASUS GTX 560 Ti 448
> OCZ Agility 3 SSD
> 8GB Corsair Vengeance DD3 1866
> 
> 
> This is my first custom loop. This is still very much a work in progress but it's complete enough to share.
> Quick Specs
> 800D
> P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3
> Intel 2500K
> ASUS GTX 680
> 2x 120 GB OCZ Agility 3 RAID 0
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that's worthy to net me a spot


Looks good!


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> What board is that?


This may be a dumb question, but the metal piping makes me curious as to how its done. Is there a guide on this?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> This may be a dumb question, but the metal piping makes me curious as to how its done. Is there a guide on this?


What would you like to know,I can talk you thru it?


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What would you like to know,I can talk you thru it?


Its probably harder than I would guess, so I don't plan on doing it, but its interesting. What kind of fittings are used on the blocks, how to get it to bend, how to attach fittings to the pipe, etc.


----------



## Angrybutcher

My only issue with copper tubing in that orientation, since you're essentially using Multi-Link adapters, how well does the tube hold? Can you literally pull it like a handle and both ends pop out or does it still take some force? Most other builds I've seen with hard tubing, use mostly 90 degree bends, which would nearly prevent the tubing from accidentally sliding out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> My only issue with copper tubing in that orientation, since you're essentially using Multi-Link adapters, how well does the tube hold? Can you literally pull it like a handle and both ends pop out or does it still take some force? Most other builds I've seen with hard tubing, use mostly 90 degree bends, which would nearly prevent the tubing from accidentally sliding out.


These are not like the sli fittings,these are push fit,they have a locking ring that pulls up locking the pipe in place


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What would you like to know,I can talk you thru it?


I would be interested in knowing how you did it as well. Perhaps a guide for OCN would be a great addition?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What would you like to know,I can talk you thru it?
> 
> 
> 
> I would be interested in knowing how you did it as well. Perhaps a guide for OCN would be a great addition?
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Oh please please B Negative sir may we ave some moar sir.









I've got a good idea how it's done but I'd certainly like to know where one goes about getting collar fittings for liquid connections. I can get pneumatic connectors from Home Depot here in my area but I don't believe you're using that style.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> EVGA SR-2... You been living under a rock for the past few years?


Yes actually, I find the naturalistic living conditions keep me from paying big brother his due


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vigilanty*
> 
> Quick Specs
> 800D
> P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3
> Intel 2500K
> ASUS GTX 680
> 2x 120 GB OCZ Agility 3 RAID 0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that's worthy to net me a spot


This has gotta be "THE" cleanest cable management I've ever seen. Big thumbs up to you.


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vigilanty*
> 
> Hey OCN! Thanks for everything
> 
> Hope that's worthy to net me a spot


wow that looks really good.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> This has gotta be "THE" cleanest cable management I've ever seen. Big thumbs up to you.


Not to crap on anyone's build or skills, but check this out:
Quote:


> Million Dollar PC


----------



## Vigilanty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> This has gotta be "THE" cleanest cable management I've ever seen. Big thumbs up to you.


Thanks for the kind words








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not to crap on anyone's build or skills, but check this out:


I have to agree with you. Those guys have some sick builds and mad skills. Maybe someday....


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not to crap on anyone's build or skills, but check this out:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Million Dollar PC
Click to expand...

At least post Charles most recent work.











http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2011/murderbox-mk2/murderbox-mk2.htm


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> This has gotta be "THE" cleanest cable management I've ever seen. Big thumbs up to you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to crap on anyone's build or skills, but check this out:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Million Dollar PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Mine is a cluttered kind of clean.


















By no means perfect but I can't help but admire my first sleeving/cable managed mod. I learned so much from it.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> At least post Charles most recent work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2011/murderbox-mk2/murderbox-mk2.htm


Ah, I was looking for that one







. I just got it from mdpc.com. I do like this one but I love the first setup though









I will admit, my wire-management won't look anything remotely close to this


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> At least post Charles most recent work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2011/murderbox-mk2/murderbox-mk2.htm


I think my favorite part of that build is the vertical optical drive through that secret slot on top. Brilliant


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think my favorite part of that build is the vertical optical drive through that secret slot on top. Brilliant


OH now that is slick


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> OH now that is slick


And I thought I was clever "stealth" modding my optical drive. This guy takes that to a new level


----------



## wermad

No update on my FrozenQ res
















What sucks is that my last two monitors just arrived today and I can't run surround since I don't have this damn reservoir. (long sighs to calm down) Patience, patience, patience, patience,.....


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No update on my FrozenQ res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What sucks is that my last two monitors just arrived today and I can't run surround since I don't have this damn reservoir. (long sighs to calm down) Patience, patience, patience, patience,.....


I know the feeling. I've been waiting nearly 4 weeks for my simple fluorescent blue 250mm helix with no customizations.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No update on my FrozenQ res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What sucks is that my last two monitors just arrived today and I can't run surround since I don't have this damn reservoir. (long sighs to calm down) Patience, patience, patience, patience,.....


Order a small one temp one...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Order a small one temp one...


I was ready to do that but I got the email from FrozenQ and my hopes for getting this week were alive. If I do it now, I'll probably get the res at the same time as the backup. I should have kept my old Swiftech micro as back up (







)


----------



## derickwm

Lol probably true. Temp T line?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol probably true. Temp T line?


lol, I tried that and it wen horribly wrong. I made that ghetto res but its too dangerous to run sitting on top of my rig. I'm still hoping and praying usps drops it off tomorrow or Saturday


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Ok guys, after tons of research I'm getting closer to jumping in on this W/C thing!







There are so many options that its a little overwhelming tbh. Anyways, here is a very rough draft of my current parts list. I'm using the DCII 7970 blocks as a place-filler for my Lightning blocks whenever they become available. This will obviously be my very first W/C build so I want to make sure everything is perfect before I order anything.



My plan is to run the Bitspower Crystal Link connectors from my mobo blocks to my CPU block and to use Mayhems red dye with clear tubing. I'll post a mock up pic soon. Thansk for looking guys!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Ok guys, after tons of research I'm getting closer to jumping in on this W/C thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are so many options that its a little overwhelming tbh. Anyways, here is a very rough draft of my current parts list. I'm using the DCII 7970 blocks as a place-filler for my Lightning blocks whenever they become available. This will obviously be my very first W/C build so I want to make sure everything is perfect before I order anything.
> 
> My plan is to run the Bitspower Crystal Link connectors from my mobo blocks to my CPU block and to use Mayhems red dye with clear tubing. I'll post a mock up pic soon. Thansk for looking guys!


Have you looked at the Swiftech MCP35x instead of your D5 + top? It will save you $50 and you'll gain pump speed control via PWM. Just a thought.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lol, I tried that and it wen horribly wrong. I made that ghetto res but its too dangerous to run sitting on top of my rig. I'm still hoping and praying usps drops it off tomorrow or Saturday


If your in need of a temp res, I got one I can send you. Little scratched up but works fine. Can have it there by sat thru usps priority. Let me know and i can get it out tomorrow.


----------



## xoleras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Have you looked at the Swiftech MCP35x instead of your D5 + top? It will save you $50 and you'll gain pump speed control via PWM. Just a thought.


There's a variable speed D5 as well, isn't there? I thought I saw it on frozencpu. In any case the D5 is said to be much quieter ..


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've already changed it to the:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6190/ex-pmp-54/Swiftech_MCP655_12v_Water_Pump_w_Speed_Control_and_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html?id=R9maDzGp&mv_pc=1905

That has the speed controller on the back. I really want the power of a D5 to pump through 3 blocks and 3 rads...


----------



## wermad

Got rid of my old D5 vario asap. Too noisy and hard to purge out (in a bay res). Went back to a DDC 3.2 and I'm never switching again


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

I love my D5 vario, very quiet on low


----------



## DaClownie

Preference really. I love my D5. Mine is completely silent at full speed, and they run cooler than your 3.2s typically.

Majin SSJ Eric - a couple things.

1. I'd probably grab the Cosmos II from Newegg. It's 305 + $15 shipping from newgg or 330 with free shipping from amazon. PPCS WILL charge you for shipping on top of that 340.

2. I'd avoid nickel plated EK products. Even with their "new" style of doing the coating, issues are still being reported. Even the blocks that were pre-bad coating issue had some issues as well (as evidenced by my 5850 block pre finish problem that lost it's finish in my loop)

And for questions:

Are that many connectors necessary for SLI/Crossfire setups? There's $110 worth of connectors just for linking your video cards together alone. That's crazy if so :/

Why not run 1 RX360 and 1 RX240 instead of the EX and the Koolances? Lower Fin density, lower speed fans, great cooling potential. Should be able to run the 2 radiators instead of 3, lower your restriction, get same overall temperatures I'd say.

I mean shoot... I'm running a single RX360 with 3 high speed yate loons, i7-3770k @ 4.7GHz, and a single 7970 with FC block @ 1300/1700. The GPU never gets above 45C. I'd think adding a 240 rad should cover the additional heat of a second GPU as well as X79 setup no problem.


----------



## wermad

the 3.25 really gave the DDC 3.2 and 3.1 a bad name as far a heat. I've never had heat issues unless the pump was in a confined area. The D5 I had was in a bay res and it did get hot (just like my old ddc in a bay res) but that's expected so I didn't say my old D5 was hot. With space and some decent air flow, either pump can run cool. I just feel the MCP 35x tarnished the rep of its predecessors due to its massive heat generating capability. Swiftech's heatsinks for the mcp35x is a band-aid to a not so great pump (worded carefully here







) imho.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xoleras*
> 
> There's a variable speed D5 as well, isn't there? I thought I saw it on frozencpu. In any case the D5 is said to be much quieter ..


The MCP35x can be controlled via software with ease. I won't be buying any other pump for now on.


----------



## DragonCypher

I'm still using one of the MCP350's that I got from bmaverick sometime mid-late last year, with I think an XSPC top with G1/4 threads.
It's been running 24/7 bitcoin mining ever since, keeping both GPUs and CPU at a steady 45-50C depending on ambient.. and I still haven't gotten around to making a plug for it









Bare wires from the pump were just jammed into the back of the GPU power cable >.> safety ftw
Combined with NZXT 120mm white fans, I can't hear a damn thing from it unless I stick my face next to the case.

Just ordered a Sapphire HD7970 with a Koolance block from a fellow OCN member to add to the collection too.


----------



## Eyedea

Noisy D5? Your doing something wrong







Mines on 5 and its almost silent


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Noisy D5? Your doing something wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mines on 5 and its almost silent


i've been through about eight builds within the last two-three years. So I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing







To each their own


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> i've been through about eight builds within the last two-three years. So I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To each their own


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Noisy D5? Your doing something wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mines on 5 and its almost silent


It seems we have people with different definitions of "noisy".


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Got an older rev Koolance CPU - 370 for $45
Its so shiny


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> It seems we have people with different definitions of "noisy".


The acetal pump tops give lower noise because of the added mass, the stock D5 pump tops increase vibrations making them louder. Then there is decoupling the pump so there are many variables here, like using Gel Stuff makes a HUGE difference in noise! So the combination of the acetal tops and the decoupling makes all the difference.

*Pump Noise Testing Round 1*


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spacers came today.....


i want to do something similar to this. What pipes/ fittings are you using? I'm going to get my mums bf involved when i do mine. Get advice off a proper plumber XD hehe

Also i got bored of waiting for phobya to send me those freeking flexilights! Bought some akasa cold cathodes in the mean time so i can at least see my tubing nice and lit up. Unfortunately the bloody power cables are white. Grrrrr.


----------



## superericla

It looks like I'll have quite a bit of cash on hand soon, I found a potential buyer for my MacBook Pro that offered $1600 for it. Computer upgrades coming soon.


----------



## derickwm

^









On a sadder note, my motherboard randomly crapped out today


----------



## superericla

I won't be using a large portion of it for new computer parts, my fiancee still needs a computer.









Random dying of parts is the worst. Is it under any warranty at least?


----------



## derickwm

Blah buy her a $200 netbook.

It should be... Calling gigabyte asap. This is the worst time for this to happen







I need it for finals week. Hopefully Frys will have a cheap X79 motherboard


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It looks like I'll have quite a bit of cash on hand soon, I found a potential buyer for my MacBook Pro that offered $1600 for it. Computer upgrades coming soon.










time to go full blown water setup








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a sadder note, my motherboard randomly crapped out today


Noooooooooooooooo








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Blah buy her a $200 netbook.
> It should be... Calling gigabyte asap. This is the worst time for this to happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need it for finals week. Hopefully Frys will have a cheap X79 motherboard


That's an awesome board. I'm hearing a lot of stories that these highend boards are croaking prematurely. Heard quite a few on the early RIVEs. Kinda makes me hesitant to switch to a highend board and keep my midrange board


----------



## superericla

Either way I should have at least a few hundred to a thousand dollars to buy upgrades with, plus I'll be getting $500 next month so it's a great time for upgrades.









It's good that the motherboard is at least still under warranty. I hope you find something good at Frys.









Edit: How does this motherboard look for when I upgrade to SB-E?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> i want to do something similar to this. What pipes/ fittings are you using? I'm going to get my mums bf involved when i do mine. Get advice off a proper plumber XD hehe
> Also i got bored of waiting for phobya to send me those freeking flexilights! Bought some akasa cold cathodes in the mean time so i can at least see my tubing nice and lit up. Unfortunately the bloody power cables are white. Grrrrr.


Erm.....i am a 'proper' plumber,its my trade,has been for 9 years now...


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Erm.....i am a 'proper' plumber,its my trade,has been for 9 years now...


Sorry mate i wasnt saying you weren't! im saying I have no idea about it







. I doubt you would be able to walk me through it over the internet ( not because you don't know how to do it, but most likely because i would mess it up big time), seems like something you need expertise at in the first place/ have some in person to help you with it, i was just saying i have a a perfessional plumber at hand to give me advice and help me through it in person.

Think it was just a bit of a miscommunication there


----------



## superericla

Oh the joys of selling expensive Apple products on Craigslist.


----------



## derickwm

Lol...

Gigabyte rma submitted, hopefully it is accepted









Guess I'll be starting my partout earlier than I had planned in order to fully start up phase 2 of my build


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol...
> Gigabyte rma submitted, hopefully it is accepted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I'll be starting my partout earlier than I had planned in order to fully start up phase 2 of my build


IIRC you have a new case on the way? Though the cost of a new mb is a pain you can now start planning a new rig from the ground up!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol...
> Gigabyte rma submitted, hopefully it is accepted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I'll be starting my partout earlier than I had planned in order to fully start up phase 2 of my build


I just got a board back from Gigabyte.....turnaround after they got the board was 11 days to my door. There were no questions, no bs, they just fixed it and shipped it back 3 day UPS. Kept my outer box cover with the graphics though......might want to keep yours!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol...
> Gigabyte rma submitted, hopefully it is accepted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I'll be starting my partout earlier than I had planned in order to fully start up phase 2 of my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IIRC you have a new case on the way? Though the cost of a new mb is a pain you can now start planning a new rig from the ground up!
Click to expand...

Hehe the plot of my build never stops thickening







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol...
> Gigabyte rma submitted, hopefully it is accepted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I'll be starting my partout earlier than I had planned in order to fully start up phase 2 of my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just got a board back from Gigabyte.....turnaround after they got the board was 11 days to my door. There were no questions, no bs, they just fixed it and shipped it back 3 day UPS. Kept my outer box cover with the graphics though......might want to keep yours!
Click to expand...

Good to hear, thanks for the heads up


----------



## superericla

Well, selling my MacBook fell through. Ended up wanting me to ship to Nigeria so of course I declined lol. Still for sale.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well, selling my MacBook fell through. Ended up wanting me to ship to Nigeria so of course I declined lol. Still for sale.


If they pay shipping why not?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well, selling my MacBook fell through. Ended up wanting me to ship to Nigeria so of course I declined lol. Still for sale.


I have had so many friend win the X-Lotto from Nigeria,

Some people have all the luck


----------



## Krahe

lol, you have to feel sorry for any legitimate Nigerian buyers (if such a thing exists) Probably the only country in the world where it is impossible to purchase anything online.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well, selling my MacBook fell through. Ended up wanting me to ship to Nigeria so of course I declined lol. Still for sale.


Lol those guys... Whenever I get crap like that I just respond with "sure, I only accept PayPal gift method for shipping transactions, if this works for you we can go ahead with everything"

...no response everytime


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> lol, you have to feel sorry for any legitimate Nigerian buyers (if such a thing exists) Probably the only country in the world where it is impossible to purchase anything online.


lol very true. The thing is, he claimed to be in the US Navy but his home is supposedly in Nigeria.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol those guys... Whenever I get crap like that I just respond with "sure, I only accept PayPal gift method for shipping transactions, if this works for you we can go ahead with everything"
> ...no response everytime


I actually used that but he claimed to have sent payment yet didn't then told me to ship it out asap. This guy must think I'm an idiot lol


----------



## derickwm

Lololol what a life dem scammers must live!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol those guys... Whenever I get crap like that I just respond with "sure, I only accept PayPal gift method for shipping transactions, if this works for you we can go ahead with everything"
> ...no response everytime


I once received a falsified Paypal confirmation e-mail saying that the money was sent. It was identical to a Paypal e-mail. I notice it fast because i've been using paypal for a while and I also checked online for any transaction. I reported the guy. He was from Ivory Coast.

He was asking me for a 1000$ Rig and was offering something like 3200$ with the shipping.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I won't be using a large portion of it for new computer parts, my fiancee still needs a computer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Random dying of parts is the worst. Is it under any warranty at least?


I bought a 340$ Used Laptop for my girlfriend. If you can find it local you can get a good price, especially if someone needs the money.

Even though, i'm th biggest user of this laptop


----------



## derickwm

Lol... I remember when I was in junior high I was selling a laptop for $1200 and was offered $2200 and my face was just lit with joy... Then my ebay wise mother informed me it was a scam







sad day for meeeee.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol... I remember when I was in junior high I was selling a laptop for $1200 and was offered $2200 and my face was just lit with joy... Then my ebay wise mother informed me it was a scam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sad day for meeeee.


Yeah, same here, was so happy







then was sad and mad.


----------



## DaClownie

Scammers are out of control, it sucks. Can't legitimately sell ANYTHING on craigslist anymore.

I was selling two futons, lamps, and end tables on craigslist... 3 years old, all hardwood, from a nice furniture store in the area. Whole setup cost me about $1000 3 years ago. I listed the whole thing for $250. Every single e-mail I received wanted me to give them my address so I can get a check UPSed (not USPS, because that's mail fraud and a federal offense) and they'd have their shipping company come down and pick it up... They'd even pay me $100 more for my inconvenience.

I had to sell the whole set up for $150 on Facebook because the new furniture was already delivered and the old furniture was taking up tons of space LOL.

Craigslist, why do you gotta suck now?


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol... I remember when I was in junior high I was selling a laptop for $1200 and was offered $2200 and my face was just lit with joy... Then my ebay wise mother informed me it was a scam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sad day for meeeee.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Yeah, same here, was so happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then was sad and mad.


haha LOL


----------



## superericla

I just got offered cattle for the MacBook Pro lol. That's what I get for living where I do.


----------



## derickwm

That is just too epic. If I was in a chair I'd have fallen out of it. What's the specs of the macbook?


----------



## superericla

It's an early 2011 15" MacBook Pro. Quad i7 at 2.0GHz, 8GB of RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6490m graphics, 1440 x 900 display, etc. The offer I just got included a snowboard, old computers, and livestock. Gotta love the Ozarks.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> If they pay shipping why not?


Its well known scam. Been going around various tech related forums and sites for years.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It's an early 2011 15" MacBook Pro. Quad i7 at 2.0GHz, 8GB of RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6490m graphics, 1440 x 900 display, etc. The offer I just got included a snowboard, old computers, and livestock. Gotta love the Ozarks.


I'll trade you my bnib evga 690 for it


----------



## superericla

Tempting, but not quite what I'm looking for.









Edit: Looks like I sold it on ebay to someone in the UK after being up for only a couple hours... Legit or not legit? lol

Edit x2: Just another scam...


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Tempting, but not quite what I'm looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Looks like I sold it on ebay to someone in the UK after being up for only a couple hours... Legit or not legit? lol
> Edit x2: Just another scam...


Jesus, you just seem to be a scam magnet...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Jesus, you just seem to be a scam magnet...


Sure seems like it. I might just not sell it at this point unless I get an offer I'm looking for on OCN or some place I can actually trust lol


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Tempting, but not quite what I'm looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Looks like I sold it on ebay to someone in the UK after being up for only a couple hours... Legit or not legit? lol
> Edit x2: Just another scam...


I hear there are a lot of Nigerians living in the UK.


----------



## derickwm

I just gave you an offer









Make sure with ebay you let them know it was a scam so you don't get hit with unnecessary fees. Also having the "require immediate payment" box checked helps cut down with that crap.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I just gave you an offer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure with ebay you let them know it was a scam so you don't get hit with unnecessary fees. Also having the "require immediate payment" box checked helps cut down with that crap.


And it was a tempting offer. I'm just not in the market for a dual GPU card at the moment, I won't get much use out of it from my 1055t.








I sent a cancellation of sale thing, all should be good to go now.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Preference really. I love my D5. Mine is completely silent at full speed, and they run cooler than your 3.2s typically.
> Majin SSJ Eric - a couple things.
> 1. I'd probably grab the Cosmos II from Newegg. It's 305 + $15 shipping from newgg or 330 with free shipping from amazon. PPCS WILL charge you for shipping on top of that 340.
> 2. I'd avoid nickel plated EK products. Even with their "new" style of doing the coating, issues are still being reported. Even the blocks that were pre-bad coating issue had some issues as well (as evidenced by my 5850 block pre finish problem that lost it's finish in my loop)
> And for questions:
> Are that many connectors necessary for SLI/Crossfire setups? There's $110 worth of connectors just for linking your video cards together alone. That's crazy if so :/
> Why not run 1 RX360 and 1 RX240 instead of the EX and the Koolances? Lower Fin density, lower speed fans, great cooling potential. Should be able to run the 2 radiators instead of 3, lower your restriction, get same overall temperatures I'd say.
> I mean shoot... I'm running a single RX360 with 3 high speed yate loons, i7-3770k @ 4.7GHz, and a single 7970 with FC block @ 1300/1700. The GPU never gets above 45C. I'd think adding a 240 rad should cover the additional heat of a second GPU as well as X79 setup no problem.


Thanks for the tips! Don't worry, I was just putting the parts list together on FrozenCPU but will be buying parts from whatever combo of NE/Amazon will be cheapest. As for the EK blocks, I'm really not going to have a choice about that as they are the only company making 7970 Lightning blocks as far as I know. Will have to wait until release to see if there is an option for nickel or not.

I did a rough sketch out of the entire loop with all connectors needed and that was what I came up with. I'm going for full aesthetics with this build so I will sacrifice some performance for looks if necessary. I think the Crystal link tubes on the CPU block are gonna look ballin!

The reason for the EX360 is simply because the Cosmos II can only fit slim 360's in the roof. The Koolance 240's were chosen because their connectors are on the ends making packaging easier (for my setup anyway). As for the 2 x 240's, I know its rather redundant and I may just drop it to one in the end but I like the idea of having one rad sucking air in and the other pushing it out. Plus I am going to connect them with an SLI bridge so they will sort of function as one unit...


----------



## superericla

Just noticed why FrozenQ has been so slow on shipping...

"If you received Postal Tracking, but the order says it wasn't received by the USPS:

The post office closed early, without notice, and refused to take the packages. Unfortunately, there's nothing we could do about it except for promise that will take them to the nearest post office, first thing in the morning when the office opens again. Thank you for your patience."


----------



## derickwm

Everyone is in the market for a 690!! Trululul.

Glad to hear frozenq is getting things done finally. Love their products, sad to see them lagging


----------



## superericla

Silly post office, closing when it should stay open. Oh well, at least FrozenQ keeps their customers up to date pretty well. Now I know the reservoir should be here Monday or so.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Ok guys, after tons of research I'm getting closer to jumping in on this W/C thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are so many options that its a little overwhelming tbh. Anyways, here is a very rough draft of my current parts list. I'm using the DCII 7970 blocks as a place-filler for my Lightning blocks whenever they become available. This will obviously be my very first W/C build so I want to make sure everything is perfect before I order anything.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Proposed Cart?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My plan is to run the Bitspower Crystal Link connectors from my mobo blocks to my CPU block and to use Mayhems red dye with clear tubing. I'll post a mock up pic soon. Thansk for looking guys!


Well bro if you haven't gotten your system yet...

They got Cosmos II at Performance-PCs in Florida for $299 right now I believe. Pretty sure you can get all this stuff for cheaper and I know that the shipping is cheaper with Performance. You should check em out.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Mayhem recommends not using XSPC or Primochill tubing, but instead going with something similar to ClearFLEX 60. It's cheaper anyhow.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Mayhem recommends not using XSPC or Primochill tubing, but instead going with something similar to ClearFLEX 60. It's cheaper anyhow.


Thanks for the tip!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Something new from Mayhem for my bench to test

Thermodynamic?

Ooooh yes!


----------



## superericla

Looks good. Any idea what colour it turns when heated?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Looks good. Any idea what colour it turns when heated?


This one goes from Purple to Blue...its been near the window and has got hot in these pics.
I cant say or show more than that due to NDA.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This one goes from Purple to Blue...its been near the window and has got hot in these pics


Sounds good. The real test is how good it looks in a water cooling loop. I'm not sure exactly how thermodynamic fluids would react in a computer loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Sounds good. The real test is how good it looks in a water cooling loop. I'm not sure exactly how thermodynamic fluids would react in a computer loop.


Soon find out,have to remove all the black primochill off my bench first then re tube with the clear i have...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Soon find out,have to remove all the black primochill off my bench first then re tube with the clear i have...


I'm looking forward to seeing the results.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something new from Mayhem for my bench to test
> Thermodynamic?
> Ooooh yes!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Soon find out,have to remove all the black primochill off my bench first then re tube with the clear i have...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'm looking forward to seeing the results.


Oooo I'm very interested in seeing how that turns out as well. I saw their YouTube video on this, they had it in a glass and were pouring hot water on the outside of the glass causing it to react and turn purple, but as superericla said, I'm really wondering how it does inside of a system.


----------



## johnko1

are primochill and xspc tubing good?I want to buy blue tubing (no clear-no dyes) but I'm limited to european shops because of the high shipping prices.

Aquatuning has some masketeer tubing,what about it?


----------



## mordocai rp

I was wondering if someone could answere this for me, its very uncommon;
if i buy uv reactive tubing, and sleeve it using sleeve that lets tiny specks of the thing underneath to show through(like double threaded sleeve), If i have a uv ccfl shining, will the tube glow or will it have an ominous glow, or will it not glow at all?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I am going to be using red coolant in my new build, any recommendations guys? I want to use Mayhems but could only find orange for sale so far.

Also, I've currently budgeted only one mcp-655 and single pump-top but am starting to think a dual pump setup would be safer for redundancy. Any opinions on this? Thanks guys.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I am going to be using red coolant in my new build, any recommendations guys? I want to use Mayhems but could only find orange for sale so far.
> Also, I've currently budgeted only one mcp-655 and single pump-top but am starting to think a dual pump setup would be safer for redundancy. Any opinions on this? Thanks guys.


Are you looking for something like this?

You really don't need an extra pump for redundancy with the MCP655. If it gets through the first week it'll likely get through 5 years.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just noticed why FrozenQ has been so slow on shipping...
> "If you received Postal Tracking, but the order says it wasn't received by the USPS:
> The post office closed early, without notice, and refused to take the packages. Unfortunately, there's nothing we could do about it except for promise that will take them to the nearest post office, first thing in the morning when the office opens again. Thank you for your patience."


Well they are expected to go bankrupt this year


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Well they are expected to go bankrupt this year


The USPS? I'm not surprised.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The USPS? I'm not surprised.


Oh yeah, they are so broke its not even funny... don't be surprised to lose Saturday delivery before the end of the year


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Oh yeah, they are so broke its not even funny... don't be surprised to lose Saturday delivery before the end of the year


They've been trying to get rid of that for ages. Personally I would prefer they deliver every day of the week but that's just because I'm always waiting on something to ship.


----------



## evil jerry

Will be adding a new GPU too the loop at a later date, however money is tight this month.

The build is Currently up for mod of the month.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1252282/may-2012-mod-of-the-month-contest-poll-is-up


----------



## superericla

^^Congrats on currently being in the lead by 3 votes. Looks like it'll be a close MOTM.


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> ^^Congrats on currently being in the lead by 3 votes. Looks like it'll be a close MOTM.


thanks, It's kinda nerve racking as it's last day of voting and nobody knows when it ends today.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> thanks, It's kinda nerve racking as it's last day of voting and nobody knows when it ends today.


Ya got mine, now ahead by 4


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ya got mine, now ahead by 4


Thanks mike, I saw your case in the corsair club, that side window is insane. I'm gonna check out your build log more.

edit: wait you have had two of the sexiest cases. The corsair and the switch. Nice and clean build(s)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just noticed why FrozenQ has been so slow on shipping...
> "If you received Postal Tracking, but the order says it wasn't received by the USPS:
> The post office closed early, without notice, and refused to take the packages. Unfortunately, there's nothing we could do about it except for promise that will take them to the nearest post office, first thing in the morning when the office opens again. Thank you for your patience."


They probably printed the labels, waited more than two days, and the post office said sorry, labels are no longer good. It has happened to me before and its a pita to redo them. That could be why there's no tracking info for mine other than "electronic info received". This is mighty disappointing and I'm afraid this will be my last FrozenQ product I'll buy through them. I'm more than happy to buy them preowned from other members but this is just excessive and disappointing that they have lost a customer. My build is ready to go, its just missing the damn reservoir


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They probably printed the labels, waited more than two days, and the post office said sorry, labels are no longer good. It has happened to me before and its a pita to redo them. That could be why there's no tracking info for mine other than "electronic info received". This is mighty disappointing and I'm afraid this will be my last FrozenQ product I'll buy through them. I'm more than happy to buy them preowned from other members but this is just excessive and disappointing that they have lost a customer. My build is ready to go, its just missing the damn reservoir


I've seen you around before werman, you did the review on mayhems dyes, correct me if i'm wrong.

Yeah I have a frozen Q res and I ordered it directly. It a custom white helix but it took forever to get here. I'm not even using it as it does not match my build right now.

This mod of the month is stressing me, I do want to say thank you for the people who have voted for me in the water cooling club. There is tons and tons of awesome builds here.

Please take a look at my build Operation Freedom
http://www.overclock.net/t/1252282/may-2012-mod-of-the-month-contest-poll-is-up


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> I've seen you around before werman, you did the review on mayhems dyes, correct me if i'm wrong.
> Yeah I have a frozen Q res and I ordered it directly. It a custom white helix but it took forever to get here. I'm not even using it as it does not match my build right now.
> This mod of the month is stressing me, I do want to say thank you for the people who have voted for me in the water cooling club. There is tons and tons of awesome builds here.
> Please take a look at my build Operation Freedom
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1252282/may-2012-mod-of-the-month-contest-poll-is-up


I've seen your build briefly but my damn build woes have been keeping me busy. Im checking out MOTM at the moment









yup, that's my comparo of Mayhems. I love their products and they come up with some of the wildest and coolest water products. I like how they are thinking outside the box (something I explore quite a bit







).


----------



## crept1o




----------



## evil jerry

@ crept1o

I must say that hose color with the lighting hitting it in that picture is pretty cool


----------



## crept1o

was more of a mistake with the hose colour half is clear other half is clear uv is looks blue-er turned out to look alrite though; cheers

surprised to how much i got in that 400r case


----------



## Idef1x

This is actually my very first post on OCN, but I have been lurking the forums for quite some time. I used to spend my time on [H], but the watercooling and modding sections are not that active atm. I wanted to share my FT02, which I've had for a while now and recently upgraded to socket 2011. The pictures are a few months old, but I plan to add some new ones when I get around to it. After I took these, I changed the lighting, added a waterblock to the mosfets and cut the mesh from the buttom of the case. I hope you like it though









For future work, I'm either gonna get the Corsair sleeved cables for the PSU or order some MDPC and do it myself.


----------



## Krahe

Nice clean build Idef1x, you have any full case shots? I like the way the mb mounts in the FT02, and your pump fits perfectly in that position.


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/899642/width/600/height/450/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is actually my very first post on OCN, but I have been lurking the forums for quite some time. I used to spend my time on [H], but the watercooling and modding sections are not that active atm. I wanted to share my FT02, which I've had for a while now and recently upgraded to socket 2011. The pictures are a few months old, but I plan to add some new ones when I get around to it. After I took these, I changed the lighting, added a waterblock to the mosfets and cut the mesh from the buttom of the case. I hope you like it though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For future work, I'm either gonna get the Corsair sleeved cables for the PSU or order some MDPC and do it myself.


Incredible looking build!!


----------



## Da1Nonly

Is it safe to mount a pump upside down? meaning the base not sitting on the floor, but attaching it to the ceiling?


----------



## evil jerry

Yes you can mount a pump upside down.


----------



## Da1Nonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> Yes you can mount a pump upside down.


Thanks!

Epic build by the way.


----------



## evil jerry

Please vote as i'm only up two votes as we speak and Mod of the month ends in 45 minutes. Thank you for the compliment.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Nice clean build Idef1x, you have any full case shots? I like the way the mb mounts in the FT02, and your pump fits perfectly in that position.


I will try to get some new pictures of the rig and include some full shots.







Too bad my only camera is my Galaxy Note








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> Incredible looking build!!


Thanks a lot! Always nice to hear. You did some great modding on that Phantom btw - just got my vote.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Nice clean build Idef1x, you have any full case shots? I like the way the mb mounts in the FT02, and your pump fits perfectly in that position.
> 
> 
> 
> I will try to get some new pictures of the rig and include some full shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad my only camera is my Galaxy Note
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> Incredible looking build!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks a lot! Always nice to hear. You did some great modding on that Phantom btw - just got my vote.
Click to expand...

Definitely an awesome build from you Idef1x, thanks for joining and posting it up! Hope to see you active here (atleast in the WC section) because you very apparently know what you're doing!


----------



## _Killswitch_

Well I'm going to be doing watercooling, I got everything pretty much decided on except tubing. My uncle went to Watercooling also but he got Primochill none the less not that impressed with it.

So I ask you watercooling experts which tubing company makes decent that doesn't stain easily and good. I prob will be getting clear tubing w/Mayhem's pure ice water with some color of red dye.

I guess choices are between
Tygon
danger den
or that one I saw here that Mayhem said they use..forgot the name of it now.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is actually my very first post on OCN, but I have been lurking the forums for quite some time. I used to spend my time on [H], but the watercooling and modding sections are not that active atm. I wanted to share my FT02, which I've had for a while now and recently upgraded to socket 2011. The pictures are a few months old, but I plan to add some new ones when I get around to it. After I took these, I changed the lighting, added a waterblock to the mosfets and cut the mesh from the buttom of the case. I hope you like it though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For future work, I'm either gonna get the Corsair sleeved cables for the PSU or order some MDPC and do it myself.





Nice build! I like the 540mm rad. Im almost finished with my RV02 build.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Well I'm going to be doing watercooling, I got everything pretty much decided on except tubing. My uncle went to Watercooling also but he got Primochill none the less not that impressed with it.
> So I ask you watercooling experts which tubing company makes decent that doesn't stain easily and good. I prob will be getting clear tubing w/Mayhem's pure ice water with some color of red dye.
> I guess choices are between
> Tygon
> danger den
> or that one I saw here that Mayhem said they use..forgot the name of it now.


After everything I have read and seen, I would suggest Clearflex 60.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Da1Nonly*
> 
> Is it safe to mount a pump upside down? meaning the base not sitting on the floor, but attaching it to the ceiling?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> Yes you can mount a pump upside down.


I'm still relatively a noob but the only pump I can see mounted upside-down is a D5 because it can be flipped in the mount so it's flowing right side up.

I wouldn't recommend running DDC pumps in that orientation without a starter pump in line some place and with a Reservoir above it. This is the problem with mounting pumps to the ceiling of cases is you have to get a good supply of coolant above it.









I could be wrong though.









~Ceadder


----------



## fr0st.

Oh wow apparently I've posted twice in this thread before ^^;

Here's a collection of all my rigs so far, working on my next. When I get home from Hawaii I'll finish it off with a 6990.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm still relatively a noob but the only pump I can see mounted upside-down is a D5 because it can be flipped in the mount so it's flowing right side up.
> I wouldn't recommend running DDC pumps in that orientation without a starter pump in line some place and with a Reservoir above it. This is the problem with mounting pumps to the ceiling of cases is you have to get a good supply of coolant above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could be wrong though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


As long as the water line is higher than the pump impeller, it should be fine. I have both my Koolance DDC pumps mounted upside down. That's how they're mounted in the 401x2 bay res.


----------



## wermad

Ghetto mod reservoir ftw


----------



## SimpleTech

Looks like a pipe bomb. Speaking of which I probably shouldn't have said those last two words. (_puts tin hat back on head_)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Looks like a pipe bomb. Speaking of which I probably shouldn't have said those last two words. (_puts tin hat back on head_)


some pvc pipe and a few fittings. so far its passed a simple leak test. cement stinks like heck so I'm waiting on that to clear out







. The things I do to get my rig going. Thank you FrozenQ


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> some pvc pipe and a few fittings. so far its passed a simple leak test. cement stinks like heck so I'm waiting on that to clear out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The things I do to get my rig going. Thank you FrozenQ


It's not their fault that the USPS they went to closed unexpectedly.









Anyhow, I got a special something from the makers of Indigo Xtreme. I'm not going to say what it is yet but I will say it's pretty great so far.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm still relatively a noob but the only pump I can see mounted upside-down is a D5 because it can be flipped in the mount so it's flowing right side up.
> I wouldn't recommend running DDC pumps in that orientation without a starter pump in line some place and with a Reservoir above it. This is the problem with mounting pumps to the ceiling of cases is you have to get a good supply of coolant above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could be wrong though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as the water line is higher than the pump impeller, it should be fine. I have both my Koolance DDC pumps mounted upside down. That's how they're mounted in the 401x2 bay res.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Is it safe to mount a pump upside down? meaning the base not sitting on the floor, _*but attaching it to the ceiling*_?


There is a difference between ceiling and Reservoir. Although I'm not a fan of the way Koolance oriented that Res. Would've been much better with the pumps being right side up imho. Until I saw how it was set up I was contemplating that Pump/Reservoir. Certainly would have saved me a buttload of space in the bottom of my case.









~Ceadder


----------



## Carniflex

A quick question, which does not deserve in my opinion thread on its own so I'll just ask here.

I have res/pump combo which I was planning on installing the topmost 5.25'' bay slot and as one of my side panels will be not removable as a result of casemod (it will have 9x120 mm rad attached to it) it will be not removable as well so I will not be able to access the fillport on top of the res. I was planning to use T line and bulkhead installed on top of the case for filling the loop but now after thinking about it for a little while I'm wondering if I'm able to get the air out of the res if the fillport on top of the res is closed. The res/pump combo will have two of these small pumps installed.

You can take a look at the build log where more pictures are presented to get an idea of what I have in mind if this explanation was a bit too hard to understand http://www.overclock.net/t/1262095/soliton-dispenser-an-atx-portable-watercooled-case-with-external-9x120mm-rad

I'll throw in here the two most relevant pictures as well.



So the question is - what do you think ? Is it possible to get the air out of the res without having to open the top fillport if I use T line at pump/res combo inlet for filling the loop ? Or should I install the res at one of the bottom slots instead (which will result in about 1 meter longer tubing altogether, but will place most of the liquid in my loop higher than the res/pump combo?

All the 5.25 bays will be occupied (SATA hotswap backplates for all the HDD's and SSD's in my system) so I will not have access to the fillport on top of the res even if I install it at the bottom unless I fill the loop before assembling my system fully.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> So the question is - what do you think ? Is it possible to get the air out of the res without having to open the top fillport if I use T line at pump/res combo inlet for filling the loop ? Or should I install the res at one of the bottom slots instead (which will result in about 1 meter longer tubing altogether, but will place most of the liquid in my loop higher than the res/pump combo?
> All the 5.25 bays will be occupied (SATA hotswap backplates for all the HDD's and SSD's in my system) so I will not have access to the fillport on top of the res even if I install it at the bottom unless I fill the loop before assembling my system fully.


I have never used one of these myself but Koolance make a pressure relief valve that might work for you on the fill port.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_300_1364&products_id=18825


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I have never used one of these myself but Koolance make a pressure relief valve that might work for you on the fill port.
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_300_1364&products_id=18825


The thread on the fillport is a lot larger than G1/4. I was initially planning on connecting the fillport to the fillport on the res instead of using a T-line, but I dont have so large fitting.


----------



## Chewy

I just finished my first loop last night and enjoyed every minute of it!







Hope you guys approve


































Specs are:

MCP655 D5 Vario Pump & Alphacool HF D5 Acetal pump top
EK Supreme HF cpu waterblock
EK Coolstream XT 360 Rad
Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX 120 rad
Alphacool HF 38 Cape Cyclone 250 res
XSPC 1/2" tubing
EK PSC Nickel Compression fittings all round
Mayhems Aurora tharsis red Coolant

Temps top out at 65-67c on intel burn test @ 5ghz, My H100 would spike over 90c! It may also be useful to know my loop took exactly 1 litre of coolant to fill so i now have a litre spare, I have seen this question asked a few times now. Next step gpu waterblock and backplate coming soon.


----------



## Krahe

Nice work Chewy and welcome to the club, love the white builds,now you better start planning on getting that GPU wet.


----------



## bundymania

GPU-X³ CORE LC f. Nvidia GTX670


----------



## derickwm

Interesting... I hope that's not what all short pcb 670 blocks look like


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Interesting... I hope that's not what all short pcb 670 blocks look like


Its more like the EK supreme gpu "bridge-ed"

Looks very nice







. I love that you can rotate the block 90° towards the rear (thanks to the gtx 670s small pcb). I really like the short pcb idea from Nvidia as Amd and its long arse gpu were getting a little ridiculously long tbh. Hope this kicks off a trand (very likely). I'm sure a card maker will be able to offer a shrunk pcb version to contend with the 670.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like it's Universal. Could you confirm Bundy?









If it is and it's cheaper than EK, I'd go with that one. Too bad my GPU aren't shorter cause I like how it comes off the back of that card.









~Ceadder


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> There is a difference between ceiling and Reservoir. Although I'm not a fan of the way Koolance oriented that Res. *Would've been much better with the pumps being right side up imho. Until I saw how it was set up I was contemplating that Pump/Reservoir*. Certainly would have saved me a buttload of space in the bottom of my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Care to share why you think that? As someone with a fair amount of experience with both small (watercooling) and large (2-40hp) pumps, I can safely say that virtually all of them work fine in any orientation (although it sometimes depends on the orientation of the power source - tractors don't like to be sideways...). All your average aquarium pump wants is to to have a constant supply of water at the intake - give it that, and you can mount it upside down and sideways, and with the whole assembly at a 45 degree angle and it won't care.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Care to share why you think that? As someone with a fair amount of experience with both small (watercooling) and large (2-40hp) pumps, I can safely say that virtually all of them work fine in any orientation (although it sometimes depends on the orientation of the power source - tractors don't like to be sideways...). All your average aquarium pump wants is to to have a constant supply of water at the intake - give it that, and you can mount it upside down and sideways, and with the whole assembly at a 45 degree angle and it won't care.


Where is this constant supply of water at the intake going to come from if pump is mounted upside down at ceiling ? There would have to be a reservoir higher than ceiling ?


----------



## PCModderMike

I hope EK has something better planned than that^^ for a 670 reference block....that's somewhat disappointing just glancing at it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chewy*
> 
> I just finished my first loop last night and enjoyed every minute of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you guys approve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice looking rig mate







. Any issues with your xspc tube?

Well...post man stopped by and I confirmed my res is not gonna get here until some time next century







(sigh). Going forward with my ghetto res aka "Pipe Bomb"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Where is this constant supply of water at the intake going to come from if pump is mounted upside down at ceiling ? There would have to be a reservoir higher than ceiling ?


Once the pump is primed it will draw from a res below pump level. Ubergeek is correct in saying the pump can be mounted any direction...the EK/jingway pump even has a mounting plate designed with multi directional lugs for that very purpose


----------



## Krahe

Agreed, i plan on using dual Danger den pumps (rebranded EK/Jingway) in my next build and incorporating them to replace two 90 angle fittings. ie: one with inlet on top and one with outlet at top.


----------



## faast2

670 blocks why no ram coverage?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Once the pump is primed it will draw from a res below pump level. Ubergeek is correct in saying the pump can be mounted any direction...the EK/jingway pump even has a mounting plate designed with multi directional lugs for that very purpose


I know it works when loop is full but filling seems kind of hard unless you put case upside down when filling, fill line at pumps inlet might also work.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> I know it works when loop is full but filling seems kind of hard unless you put case upside down when filling, fill line at pumps inlet might also work.


Agreed,it is a pain and is not the desired approach,but can be done.


----------



## wermad

Aquarium and pond pumps are placed in odd positions all the time so I'm sure our little pumps will be fine


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Care to share why you think that? As someone with a fair amount of experience with both small (watercooling) and large (2-40hp) pumps, I can safely say that virtually all of them work fine in any orientation (although it sometimes depends on the orientation of the power source - tractors don't like to be sideways...). All your average aquarium pump wants is to to have a constant supply of water at the intake - give it that, and you can mount it upside down and sideways, and with the whole assembly at a 45 degree angle and it won't care.
> 
> 
> 
> Where is this constant supply of water at the intake going to come from if pump is mounted upside down at ceiling ? There would have to be a reservoir higher than ceiling ?
Click to expand...

This...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I hope EK has something better planned than that^^ for a 670 reference block....that's somewhat disappointing just glancing at it.


Not a Reference block. Pretty sure it's a Universal but without confirmation I won't go out on that ledge even at gunpoint.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Where is this constant supply of water at the intake going to come from if pump is mounted upside down at ceiling ? There would have to be a reservoir higher than ceiling ?
> 
> 
> 
> Once the pump is primed it will draw from a res below pump level. Ubergeek is correct in saying the pump can be mounted any direction...the EK/jingway pump even has a mounting plate designed with multi directional lugs for that very purpose
Click to expand...

Not to be argumentative but there are more than just EK & Jingway pumps in water cooling. Just cause it can work for those doesn't mean it's optimal for all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faast2*
> 
> 670 blocks why no ram coverage?


Okay I'll go a little ways out...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> I know it works when loop is full but filling seems kind of hard unless you put case upside down when filling, fill line at pumps inlet might also work.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed,it is a pain and is not the desired approach,but can be done.
Click to expand...

But see this is what I was getting at. I'm not saying it can't be done. It's just not an OPTIMAL setup. Do you really wish to flip your case everytime you have a refill situation? I had to fill my loop 3 or 4 times before I got it running the 1st time. Then had to do drain and fill the loop again when I finished sleeving and mounting my 2nd pump under the top. I can't... don't want to even think of how much work it would be with the pumps mounted up top and having to flip the case to get the optimal amound of startup flow to pulse the system til it's full. It can be done of course. Not saying it can't. It's just not optimal and I don't suggest it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Aquarium and pond pumps are placed in odd positions all the time so I'm sure our little pumps will be fine


Very true. But people aren't having to pick up their aquarium/pond to get their pump to work and most systems are submersible.









Again, I wasn't trying to be a knoitall just don't recommend it... but that's unless it's worth it to the person having to toil to get it done right. Then I guess I would have to fully agree if it can be set up to minimize the hassle.









~Ceadder


----------



## (sic)

No liquid in it yet, but I'm close!

Can I join?

Excuse the crappy cell phone pic


More pics to come in my upcoming build log.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very true. But people aren't having to pick up their aquarium/pond to get their pump to work and most systems are submersible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I wasn't trying to be a knoitall just don't recommend it... but that's unless it's worth it to the person having to toil to get it done right. Then I guess I would have to fully agree if it can be set up to minimize the hassle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


A lot of the high end aquarium tanks use stand alone pumps. same thing with pool pumps. as long as you can get it primed, it works. A pump will work in pretty much any oriantion as long as it gets water going it to. With a large aquarium and/or pool, the pressure from the amount of water in the system is enough to force water to the pump. A trick I use to prime the pump is to seal the loop, add a piece of tube to the res and blow on it. The pressure I create by blowing through res will try to force water through the pump. I used this method when my pump was at the same level as the res in my 800D. Don't fight it Ceadder....give your ocd the back seat on this one. It just works, nuff said


----------



## jcho285

May not be the best looking job but it's my first and the temps are looking great








35C on BF3 is just awesome!


The GPU to res loop bothers me so I'll probably order 45 degree adapter but as of now, can't complain about the temperature.

Thanks to everyone that helped and wermad for your knowledge!


----------



## Krahe

Nice work and welcome on getting wet.







you will never look back, especially where GPU temps are concerned.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Will post better picture later. This is a leak test going on here. when the build will be completely finished, I'll post good ones.

My brother asked me to build him a 1000$ PC and unfortunately, it went up to 1700$ with everything. He's still pretty happy with it.

It's his first watercooled rig and I felt he was so nervous before firing up the pumps and filling the loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very true. But people aren't having to pick up their aquarium/pond to get their pump to work and most systems are submersible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I wasn't trying to be a knoitall just don't recommend it... but that's unless it's worth it to the person having to toil to get it done right. Then I guess I would have to fully agree if it can be set up to minimize the hassle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of the high end aquarium tanks use stand alone pumps. same thing with pool pumps. as long as you can get it primed, it works. A pump will work in pretty much any oriantion as long as it gets water going it to. With a large aquarium and/or pool, the pressure from the amount of water in the system is enough to force water to the pump. A trick I use to prime the pump is to seal the loop, add a piece of tube to the res and blow on it. The pressure I create by blowing through res will try to force water through the pump. I used this method when my pump was at the same level as the res in my 800D. Don't fight it Ceadder....give your ocd the back seat on this one. It just works, nuff said
Click to expand...

No no I know there are external pumps too...

Oh eff it, carry on.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> May not be the best looking job but it's my first and the temps are looking great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 35C on BF3 is just awesome!
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2444020/width/600/height/450]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> The GPU to res loop bothers me so I'll probably order 45 degree adapter but as of now, can't complain about the temperature.
> Thanks to everyone that helped and wermad for your knowledge!


Awesome job







. Damn, those HK back plates look smexy. Gonna wait on mine since I can only get them from Germany and I need three


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> May not be the best looking job but it's my first and the temps are looking great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 35C on BF3 is just awesome!
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2444020/width/600/height/450]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> The GPU to res loop bothers me so I'll probably order 45 degree adapter but as of now, can't complain about the temperature.
> Thanks to everyone that helped and wermad for your knowledge!
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Damn, those HK back plates look smexy. Gonna wait on mine since I can only get them from Germany and I need three
Click to expand...

If they came in Black I'd be all over em.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If they came in Black I'd be all over em.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Spray paint


----------



## wermad

Finally the tracking # from FrozenQ is alive







. It was dropped off yesterday June 1st














.

I'm typing from my rig using the ghetto res (ftw btw







). took a bit of work to get some major air pockets out but its working. Got my Surround going too, so I'm super thrilled and this at least is enough to make me forget about this damn reservoir.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally the tracking # from FrozenQ is alive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It was dropped off yesterday June 1st
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I'm typing from my rig using the ghetto res (ftw btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). took a bit of work to get some major air pockets out but its working. Got my Surround going too, so I'm super thrilled and this at least is enough to make me forget about this damn reservoir.


Its alive!
Ghetto res ftw. haha
edit, Weird.. I didnt see that picture till I quoted it.. :|


----------



## Klavins

Nuclear Fission Rig
i7 3930k, 2x GTX480 SLi, AsRock X79 Extreme9, 16Gb G.Skill Ripjaws Z (with Arctic RC sinks), Silverstone Strider Gold 1000W


----------



## derickwm

I like the use of blue and green LEDs


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys,
Not to bring this back from the dead but I have a question.
Here is the old Eheim pump discussed earlier in the thread.

At this point that inlet only has 1/4 tubing. I found these scrounging around on the interwebz
last night.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15813/ex-tub-1254/Aquacomputer_G14_Adapter_Set_for_Eheim_Aquastream_Pumps_-_Discharge_and_Intake_41078.html

Would this allow me to go to the 1/2 tubing since by my understanding this makes it a normal G1/4" fitting?
Thanks again guys and unfortunately I do not have a part number for this yet.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Not to bring this back from the dead but I have a question.
> Here is the old Eheim pump discussed earlier in the thread.
> 
> At this point that inlet only has 1/4 tubing. I found these scrounging around on the interwebz
> last night.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15813/ex-tub-1254/Aquacomputer_G14_Adapter_Set_for_Eheim_Aquastream_Pumps_-_Discharge_and_Intake_41078.html
> Would this allow me to go to the 1/2 tubing since by my understanding this makes it a normal G1/4" fitting?
> Thanks again guys and unfortunately I do not have a part number for this yet.


You can use all standard G1/4" fittings with those adapters so 1/2" tubing will work just fine.


----------



## audioholic

Any pointers on how to clean this thing? It was handed down to me and I just want to make sure things are good to go.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

just changed a few things in my loop
and added better coolant and sleeved cables
i think it was worth the hassle.
2 before and 2 after pics.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Any pointers on how to clean this thing? It was handed down to me and I just want to make sure things are good to go.


For rads a hot vinegar, followed by distilled water rinse. Blocks are best taken apart and cleaned with water and an old toothbrush.


----------



## mandrix

I think he's talking about the pump a few posts up?


----------



## zander89

thought i would upload this pic too. Sorry about the shoddy pic was done in a hurry while leaving the house on my phone. managed to nab some cold cathode UV lights cheap on amazon + prime delivery. Think its starting to shape up nicely. Hopefully will look even better when i get my gpu block/240 rad in there! Its going to set me back at least another £160-70 though. So i think i shall wait for a little while.


----------



## Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice looking rig mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Any issues with your xspc tube?
> 
> Well...post man stopped by and I confirmed my res is not gonna get here until some time next century
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sigh). Going forward with my ghetto res aka "Pipe Bomb"


Thanks. No none so far, will see how things go over time....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Nice work Chewy and welcome to the club, love the white builds,now you better start planning on getting that GPU wet.


Just a few more weeks, i'm itching to get it in there


----------



## Neale1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Once the pump is primed it will draw from a res below pump level. Ubergeek is correct in saying the pump can be mounted any direction...the EK/jingway pump even has a mounting plate designed with multi directional lugs for that very purpose


This is true. I have both of the pumps in my loops attached to ceiling. In one case the pump is on the same level as the res, other its actually higher (drawing from the res in the second bay). It was a pain in the backside to get the loop filled originally however, had to remove the pumps and hold them below the res while the loop was filling, then reattach them to the top. Works a treat now an saved me so much space in the long run, not looking forward to refilling it though...


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, I wanted to get some sort of picture of part of my rig up up for reference. Not the best photo (taken from my iPhone) and this part isn't totally done yet (I am going to redo the sleeving on my fans and I'm having 2 custom rad covers laser cut for me), but this should give you an idea.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, I wanted to get some sort of picture of part of my rig up up for reference. Not the best photo (taken from my iPhone) and this part isn't totally done yet (I am going to redo the sleeving on my fans and I'm having 2 custom rad covers laser cut for me), but this should give you an idea.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*












How goes your new water cooled server build lowfat?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How goes your new water cooled server build lowfat?


It ended up being axed. I sold off the G34 equipment. Going to merge my gaming system and my server in to a single machine. So I've got a couple of 8-core Xeons on order. Once the gear starts arriving, things should get fun.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like it's Universal. Could you confirm Bundy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it is and it's cheaper than EK, I'd go with that one. Too bad my GPU aren't shorter cause I like how it comes off the back of that card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


...should fit on several cards !


----------



## TomSG

Heres mine,

Probrably going to add the 680 on a seperate loop in the future If I can justify the cost to myself!.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I think he's talking about the pump a few posts up?


This..thanks for the clarification


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomSG*
> 
> Heres mine,
> Probrably going to add the 680 on a seperate loop in the future If I can justify the cost to myself!.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Go for it man! I have a dual loop setup and my GPU stays nice and cool :-]


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomSG*
> 
> Heres mine,
> Probrably going to add the 680 on a seperate loop in the future If I can justify the cost to myself!.


God I love that green. Looks awesome, definitely add the 680 to the loop!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomSG*
> 
> Heres mine,
> Probrably going to add the 680 on a seperate loop in the future If I can justify the cost to myself!.


With locked voltages you won't get much performance out of putting that 680 under water (though it'll be a lot quieter). Definitely the most disappointing aspect of Kepler...


----------



## jcho285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomSG*
> 
> Heres mine,
> Probrably going to add the 680 on a seperate loop in the future If I can justify the cost to myself!.


I just put my 680s under water couple of days ago, really worth it for me for silence and cooling.
Unlocked voltages suck but I did it mainly for silence. I haven't seen my temps go over 40C while playing bf3


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomSG*
> 
> Heres mine,
> Probrably going to add the 680 on a seperate loop in the future If I can justify the cost to myself!.


can see you snapped one of the plastic locks on the drive bays. I did the same, but managed to get it back on. Fiddly as hell though. The only downside of that case is those crappy locking mechanisms! nice build though







( i put my cold cathodes in exactly the same places in my case haha







)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> can see you snapped one of the plastic locks on the drive bays. I did the same, but managed to get it back on. Fiddly as hell though. The only downside of that case is those crappy locking mechanisms! nice build though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( i put my cold cathodes in exactly the same places in my case haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Corsair has superb customer service and they will send you replacements, possibly at no charge


----------



## derickwm

+1 bought an 800D open box from newegg, was missing a few things here and there, I ever offered to pay for the missing parts but they sent them all for free







<3


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Where do you guys shop for your fittings? I've looked all over and I can't find any Bitspower single rotary 90 degree fittings in black sparkle or silver shining anywhere. FrozenCPU had them this morning but are now not even listing them. Power-PCS has them listed but OOS....


----------



## derickwm

Performance pcs and aqua tuning are my numba 1 places.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Where do you guys shop for your fittings? I've looked all over and I can't find any Bitspower single rotary 90 degree fittings in black sparkle or silver shining anywhere. FrozenCPU had them this morning but are now not even listing them. Power-PCS has them listed but OOS....


I get most of mine from Performance PC's.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393

Bitspower is ALL I use.


----------



## wermad

performance-pcs.com
frozencpu.com
jab-tech.com
sidewindercomputers.com
koolertek.com
svc.com

aquatuning.us (If I can't find them in US sites, then i order them from the Germans







)


----------



## TomSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> can see you snapped one of the plastic locks on the drive bays. I did the same, but managed to get it back on. Fiddly as hell though. The only downside of that case is those crappy locking mechanisms! nice build though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( i put my cold cathodes in exactly the same places in my case haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yeah lol. They are terribly flimsy, and they never let the drives etc line up flush with the front. I've just resorted to using screws.

I experiment with the cathodes, I usually lodge the side one at a diagonal angle when the sides on, stops the UV effect being uneven in certain parts, although I think i've lost the motivation to be that anal about it anymore








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> God I love that green. Looks awesome, definitely add the 680 to the loop!


Thanks man







. I was really anal about the green thing. like 90% of green parts are the washed out bluey green colour. I searched high and low to make sure I got the yellowy green effect. Settled in the end for MDPC sleeving, as Nils' green is the best shade ive seen. The fluid is distilled with about 10 drops of Mayhems UV yellow/green. Really has a pretty shade to it. The NZXT sentry mix fan controller sadly gives off a theme killing bluey green on its green setting, so I just leave it off.

To everyone whose encouraging me to include the 680, I think you swayed me!. I'll probrably order up the stuff in the next week or two


----------



## jamaican voodoo

hey guys just posting another update to my sig rig i guess you could call it a ghetto caselabs TH10 lol without the price tag let me know what yall think negative criticism it welcome









here goes nothing



This is the pump i'm using it awsome for the price of $ 22.50 usd...i'll also post the spects in case your curious....the fittings are from bitspower which bought from ppcs

Specification
Power: DC24V
Output: 14L/m (220GPH) @12V
Vertical cut off: 5m (16ft)
Pressure: 7.25psi
Current: [email protected]
Intake: 14mm/20.5mm Dia.
Outlet: 14mm/20.5mm Dia.
Self-Prime: No
Life span: > 20,000hrs @ 1600rpm~10,00rpm
Noise: << 40dB
Fluid temp: 65'C (not submersed)
Envir Temp: <40'C
Size(L*W*D): 4.64"x 2.0"x 2.0" (116mm X 50mm X 50mm)
Weight (net): 9.0oz


----------



## derickwm

Very cool


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Very cool


thank you


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

So, watercooling right


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> So, watercooling right
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man, you are so outdated, just put it in the dishwasher.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Man, you are so outdated, just put it in the dishwasher.


I AM the dishwasher


----------



## derickwm

Don't lie, I know there's a female in your life.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> So, watercooling right


Well, it may not run... But it's clean


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> So, watercooling right
> *snip*


ahhaha, this reminds me of the guy that washed his motherboard, graphics cards, etc. in a bath tub after cooling with in a fish tank with mineral oil. Probably one of the funniest computer-related things I've ever seen.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Well, it may not run... But it's clean


It will run as long as you dry it up thoroughly








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> ahhaha, this reminds me of the guy that washed his motherboard, graphics cards, etc. in a bath tub after cooling with in a fish tank with mineral oil. Probably one of the funniest computer-related things I've ever seen.


yup, I remember that one, epic


----------



## NFL

Played around with oil submersion with an old P4 couple years back...cool as snot but not worth the headache


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> yup, I remember that one, epic


I showed my dad that album (he's not exactly a techie). He looked for a moment, shook his head, and walked away.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I showed my dad that album (he's not exactly a techie). He looked for a moment, shook his head, and walked away.


Don't worry, my parents (and the majority of my friends) are the same.


----------



## superericla

Is this legit?


----------



## Ninja Hedgehog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I showed my dad that album (he's not exactly a techie). He looked for a moment, shook his head, and walked away.


Any links to this?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Is this legit?


No.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No.


Good to know


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomSG*
> 
> Yeah lol. They are terribly flimsy, and they never let the drives etc line up flush with the front. I've just resorted to using screws.
> I experiment with the cathodes, I usually lodge the side one at a diagonal angle when the sides on, stops the UV effect being uneven in certain parts, although I think i've lost the motivation to be that anal about it anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was really anal about the green thing. like 90% of green parts are the washed out bluey green colour. I searched high and low to make sure I got the yellowy green effect. Settled in the end for MDPC sleeving, as Nils' green is the best shade ive seen. The fluid is distilled with about 10 drops of Mayhems UV yellow/green. Really has a pretty shade to it. The NZXT sentry mix fan controller sadly gives off a theme killing bluey green on its green setting, so I just leave it off.
> To everyone whose encouraging me to include the 680, I think you swayed me!. I'll probrably order up the stuff in the next week or two


Yer its the same with my rez it locks on the side where the locking mechanisms are but then it just not quite wide enough ( / the corsair drive bays are too wide) so the right hand side is loose. Tres annoying. Ah man dont say you are doing your 680 block cos then i will order mine! ahhhhh. + a 240 rad fans and fittings im looking at £170 :O but i wants it so badly!!

Also i heard bad things about cold cathodes and that the UV light they put out was rubbish, but ive been quite impressed. My tubes glow really brightly. I might be getting some MDPC braiding soon! currently just copped out and have braided cable extenders! The problem is that my cables arnt long enough to reach everywhere in my case without extenders so i guess i might even have to rebraid my extenders with mdpc stuff!


----------



## superericla

I'm... surprised the direction USPS is going in shipping my FrozenQ reservoir. It departed from Pennsylvania and is now in California. I live in Missouri... It could be here already if it didn't take such an odd route.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> So, watercooling right


Been there. Washed my X58-OC in the sink. She ran great after letting it dry for a few days


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'm... surprised the direction USPS is going in shipping my FrozenQ reservoir. It departed from Pennsylvania and is now in California. I live in Missouri... It could be here already if it didn't take such an odd route.


I've seen some weird stuff on those UPS shipments. I asked my UPS guy about that once and he didn't really seem to know why. I suspect they don't want to unpack a pallet for one or two items so they end up on a more circuitous route.....


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I've seen some weird stuff on those UPS shipments. I asked my UPS guy about that once and he didn't really seem to know why. I suspect they don't want to unpack a pallet for one or two items so they end up on a more circuitous route.....


It was USPS priority mail. If they want to get their 2-3 day shipping estimate accurate they might want to be more direct.


----------



## mandrix

Question for you guys/gals. In the front of my HAF 922 I have the XSPC pump/res and a fan controller. Both of these use the 4 pin molex connectors as well as the LED that plugs into the res. Does anyone know where a long psu to molex wire with multiple female plugs can be found? The one with my HX750 psu isn't quite long enough to tuck all the wiring up in the bay. Or have you guys found a more elegant solution? Looking at some of the fabulous builds on here some seem so adept at hiding the wiring, and the jumble of connectors spilling out of the drive bay on mine looks pretty cluttered.
Thanks for any help!

On another note, I'm trying to get some coins together for a new full tower build, if I can ever sell my Z68 standby rig. This watercooling stuff is too addictive!


----------



## derickwm

Lol... I thought frozenq was located in california?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It was USPS priority mail. If they want to get their 2-3 day shipping estimate accurate they might want to be more direct.


Ah, sorry, I missed this while writing my post. Yes, I've seen the USPS do the same thing. No wonder they're going under......


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Question for you guys/gals. In the front of my HAF 922 I have the XSPC pump/res and a fan controller. Both of these use the 4 pin molex connectors as well as the LED that plugs into the res. Does anyone know where a long psu to molex wire with multiple female plugs can be found? The one with my HX750 psu isn't quite long enough to tuck all the wiring up in the bay. Or have you guys found a more elegant solution? Looking at some of the fabulous builds on here some seem so adept at hiding the wiring, and the jumble of connectors spilling out of the drive bay on mine looks pretty cluttered.
> Thanks for any help!
> On another note, I'm trying to get some coins together for a new full tower build, if I can ever sell my Z68 standby rig. This watercooling stuff is too addictive!


Ah, I found something. Bitspower X-Station power extension, 1 in/4 out.


----------



## Bradleynight

First step into water

HAF 922
Asrock Extreme 3 Gen 3
I5 2500k
16gb samsung
2x MIS Hawk 560 TI only one in the pic. (May add to loop later with additional 240 Rad)
Hitting 50C on 4.5 OC.


----------



## jcho285

After telling my bro-in-law the benefits of WCing, he wanted to have it on his build in 2 weeks.
He'll probably have a setup almost exactly same as mine, maybe IB Cpu but I wanted to ask you guys.
What is the best case, not too expensive, thats best for WC about 3 components, CPU, 2 GPU.

Haf X wasn't really that great in room wise but it'll probably be one we'll pick since I'm so used to working on it.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Get the *NZXT Switch 810*, you won't need to mod it, and you can have two internal radiators, one 360mm and one 240mm.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Get the *NZXT Switch 810*, you won't need to mod it, and you can have two internal radiators, one 360mm and one 240mm.


This is the current fave,better looking than the xigmatek offering for sure.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> After telling my bro-in-law the benefits of WCing, he wanted to have it on his build in 2 weeks.
> He'll probably have a setup almost exactly same as mine, maybe IB Cpu but I wanted to ask you guys.
> What is the best case, not too expensive, thats best for WC about 3 components, CPU, 2 GPU.
> Haf X wasn't really that great in room wise but it'll probably be one we'll pick since I'm so used to working on it.


You can grab an Lian Li PC-A71F from Newegg for under $100 shipped right now. Then buy the $30 top (adds 3x120mm) from PPCS. You'd be able to fit a 2x140mm up front plus the 3x120mm up top. Would make for a killer yet very beautiful case. Really wish I could grab one for this price, but no deal up here in Canada.


----------



## jcho285

Lian Li PC-A71F has been deactivated







and $200 anywhere else.

NZXT Switch 810 seems really nice.
Do you guys know if the switch 810 has enough room for 360, 140 and 2 5" bays for CD + fan controller?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Ok, so is there a run on Bitspower fittings or what? No place in the US has any silver or black sparkle 90 single rotaries in stock. Nobody. I need 4 of them for my crystal links...


----------



## mironccr345

I did a build for a friend using the Switch 810 and it was a nice case to work with. Stuffed a Phobya G-Changer 420mm
Radiator on the top and a Phobya G-Changer 280mm on the bottom, both 60mm thick. I was sad to see it go, but im ok with my RV02 for now.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'm... surprised the direction USPS is going in shipping my FrozenQ reservoir. It departed from Pennsylvania and is now in California. I live in Missouri... It could be here already if it didn't take such an odd route.


Yup, same here. Though mine arrived in my area a bit later this morning. I've seen this happen and there's a chance it might not make to the postman's truck







. Crossing fingers as the postman usually delivers between noon and 1pm







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*
> 
> Been there. Washed my X58-OC in the sink. She ran great after letting it dry for a few days


Personally, i have never tried this but this is more proof that it does work as long as you dry your components thoroughly.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I may just have to suck it up and go with matte black fittings:



This is my latest rough draft of my set up. I'm hoping to have as much figured out as possible so I can order only what I need to complete the build...


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Go easy on my as this is my first post lol.










What do you guys think about my loop idea? I need some advice as later on this summer I will be adding a loop to cool my 2x 6970's and my 2600k. I only want to run 1 loop internally in my Antec 1200. I will post pictures later on just need some initial thoughts. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

You should have your Res above your pump...

Never mind, was looking at it in the wrong orientation.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

It is, sorry for the 2nd grade drawing. I plan on using the Danger Den cylindrical res that can be mounted on any 120 fan bracket, and there are 2 on the top of my case. from there, it will run down to the pump.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> Go easy on my as this is my first post lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think about my loop idea? I need some advice as later on this summer I will be adding a loop to cool my 2x 6970's and my 2600k. I only want to run 1 loop internally in my Antec 1200. I will post pictures later on just need some initial thoughts. Thanks in advance.


I think you are overcomplicating the loop. If you want the reservoir at the back like that then do it this way.

Res > GPU 1 > GPU 2 > pump > 2x120mm radiator > 3x120mm radiator > CPU > Res. As long as the reservoir is above the pump inlet you shouldn't have a problem bleeding. It will look a whole lot cleaner too.


----------



## wermad

I just got my reservoir, and I am more disappointed









First, the side ports I requested were not done. Im not too upset since Alex was going to this for me as a courtesy. I can flip it upside down to get the side ports on the top. But it would have been a good thing if I decided to change my setup down the road. Secondly, the.finish isn't the same as when I my first FrozenQ helix res. There is still.some debris left from machining the ports, there is no cap covering the end of ccfl, and side ports look a bit concaved and may not allow the o-rings to seal. I'm a bit hesitant to use it but I no choice







. This will be my last FrozenQ product I purchase from them.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

huh, glad i asked. Thanks! + rep.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just got my reservoir, and I am more disappointed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, the side ports I requested were not done. Im not too upset since Alex was going to this for me as a courtesy. I can flip it upside down to get the side ports on the top. But it would have been a good thing if I decided to change my setup down the road. Secondly, the.finish isn't the same as when I my first FrozenQ helix res. There is still.some debris left from machining the ports, there is no cap covering the end of ccfl, and side ports look a bit concaved and may not allow the o-rings to seal. I'm a bit hesitant to use it but I no choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This will be my last FrozenQ product I purchase from them.


Hopefully mine arrives in good condition. It just sucks that it didn't come as expected after waiting 4 weeks for it.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

I have been seeing a lot of post about how the res should be before the pump. Does this mean immediately before or does that not matter?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> I have been seeing a lot of post about how the res should be before the pump. Does this mean immediately before or does that not matter?


It helps to have it immediately before. That way, the pump doesn't get a shortage of coolant.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> I have been seeing a lot of post about how the res should be before the pump. Does this mean immediately before or does that not matter?


As long as the reservoir is above the inlet of the pump you'll be fine. Gravity will handle the rest.


----------



## derickwm

That's really really depressing to hear wermad









I love FrozenQ but quality is key, especially for the higher cost.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's really really depressing to hear wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love FrozenQ but quality is key, especially for the higher cost.


It makes me worried about how the quality of mine will be when it shows up. Hopefully it'll be here soon.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> After telling my bro-in-law the benefits of WCing, he wanted to have it on his build in 2 weeks.
> He'll probably have a setup almost exactly same as mine, maybe IB Cpu but I wanted to ask you guys.
> What is the best case, not too expensive, thats best for WC about 3 components, CPU, 2 GPU.
> Haf X wasn't really that great in room wise but it'll probably be one we'll pick since I'm so used to working on it.


If you are willing to spend the money, go look at Mountainmods or Caselabs . Personally I am going with Mountainmods when I finally get around to building my next build.... Yet again pushed back....ugh stupid bills


----------



## superericla

If you don't have the money for a Mountainmods or CaseLabs case then there's always the Switch 810. It'll hold more than enough radiator space to cool 3 components.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> If you don't have the money for a Mountainmods or CaseLabs case then there's always the Switch 810. It'll hold more than enough radiator space to cool 3 components.


I dont have the money (Right now) to upgrade at all, just have to wait till the fall semester when I get a full Financial Aid check in, summer semester sucks for that. Even then that will only be the base upgrade not the WC upgrade


----------



## wermad

ugh, I hate using my phone to post









I just got home and I filled up the res. I'm looking for leaks, especially around the side ports and so far its good. I'll end up flushing it a bit to get rid of that debris. The res does look very good and I really don't see any major flaws other than some left over from the manufacturing process (some residue left on the helix spirals too). Now that I have it I'm growing fond of it







. I'm going to leave it there for a few hours and hopefully there are no leaks from the side ports. I'm sure its fine and I'm just venting due to the delays. Crossing fingers its up and running shortly


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

How come nobody ever mentions the Cosmos II? It has room for two 240's and a 360 up top and is very nice to look at. That's what I'll be using anyway...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ugh, I hate using my phone to post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just got home and I filled up the res. I'm looking for leaks, especially around the side ports and so far its good. I'll end up flushing it a bit to get rid of that debris. The res does look very good and I really don't see any major flaws other than some left over from the manufacturing process (some residue left on the helix spirals too). Now that I have it I'm growing fond of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm going to leave it there for a few hours and hopefully there are no leaks from the side ports. I'm sure its fine and I'm just venting due to the delays. Crossing fingers its up and running shortly


Great to hear!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's really really depressing to hear wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love FrozenQ but quality is key, especially for the higher cost.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just got my reservoir, and I am more disappointed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, the side ports I requested were not done. Im not too upset since Alex was going to this for me as a courtesy. I can flip it upside down to get the side ports on the top. But it would have been a good thing if I decided to change my setup down the road. Secondly, the.finish isn't the same as when I my first FrozenQ helix res. There is still.some debris left from machining the ports, there is no cap covering the end of ccfl, and side ports look a bit concaved and may not allow the o-rings to seal. I'm a bit hesitant to use it but I no choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This will be my last FrozenQ product I purchase from them.


I'm with derickwm on this. As expensive as these are there shouldn't be any flaws with them imho. I love mine but can't see paying mark up on them and if I'm getting a blem unit then I expect to pay that price not full production price.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> If you don't have the money for a Mountainmods or CaseLabs case then there's always the Switch 810. It'll hold more than enough radiator space to cool 3 components.


932 is also another good Water Cooling case. I think I would have considerably helped my own cause if I didn't insist on leaving the front plates in place other than the 2 bays that I had to remove them from for Bay devices. I think that would have made all the difference in the world for connecting the rings on my compressions if those weren't in place still. It's an excellent water cooling case if you aren't filling it with a lot of components. You can get a 240 in the 5.25 bay and a 360 up top as well as a 140 in the back mounted in pull out the case as well as a 120 in the bottom if you don't want to cut anything. If you want to cut well the possibilities are near endless.









Switch is a good case though. I would have to really think long an hard over which to get if I were to do it over again.









As for all the expensive cases suggested, I believe dude DID say "fairly cheap".







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> Lian Li PC-A71F has been deactivated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and $200 anywhere else.
> NZXT Switch 810 seems really nice.
> Do you guys know if the switch 810 has enough room for 360, 140 and 2 5" bays for CD + fan controller?


It actually has room for 420 (if HWLabs rad, 360 if not) + 240 without any modding and yes, there's room for up to 3 bays.







You can fit that 140mm in lots of spots.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyco Flipside*
> 
> It actually has room for 420 (if HWLabs rad, 360 if not) + 240 without any modding and yes, there's room for up to 3 bays.


If you're willing to do a minor drilling mod then you can fit any 420 up top. Also, if you don't need the HDD bays or bottom 5.25" bays you can fit a 360 or even another 420 in the front. Takes a bit more drilling though.


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> How come nobody ever mentions the Cosmos II? It has room for two 240's and a 360 up top and is very nice to look at. That's what I'll be using anyway...


No window makes me cry T_T
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Great to hear!


Yeah, great to hear because I almost poo in my pants







. I'm pretty sure it'll eventually have the desired quality


----------



## simonfredette

Ghetto watercooling.. its temporary I received the watercooling parts before the new case .. who could resist .


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Ghetto watercooling.. its temporary I received the watercooling parts before the new case .. who could resist .


I know its temporary, but with the way you have the RAD situated, unless there are airvents in the top of the case... It looks like the airflow would be blocked off


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I know its temporary, but with the way you have the RAD situated, unless there are airvents in the top of the case... It looks like the airflow would be blocked off


There are , the case was modded for an H100 cooler , its cut open to accept the 2 120 mm fans , now the problem was I couldnt go push pull on all 360 , but considering its an RX360 just for a CPU block .. no harm, I see how it looks now though.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> How come nobody ever mentions the Cosmos II? It has room for two 240's and a 360 up top and is very nice to look at. That's what I'll be using anyway...


It is $350 and can't fit a whole lot of radiators up top w/o modifications. For that much money there are better choices out there IMO.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> There are , the case was modded for an H100 cooler , its cut open to accept the 2 120 mm fans , now the problem was I couldnt go push pull on all 360 , but considering its an RX360 just for a CPU block .. no harm, I see how it looks now though.


My other concern is, wouldn't you want relatively cooler air blowing across the RAD? Being that heat rises the air coming out of the top vent should be some of the hottest in the case.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> How come nobody ever mentions the Cosmos II? It has room for two 240's and a 360 up top and is very nice to look at. That's what I'll be using anyway...


I saw it at microcenter, Im pretty sure i could have gotten inside and taken a nap. way too big for me!


----------



## wermad

Now I'm really annoyed that the side ports were not done







. I'll figure it out as I have plenty of fittings and adapters









Res was drained and there's some condensation.

btw: they threw in an inverter and wire harness for it, ? I didn't get one with my first so this might be something new or as compensation, ? Anyways, I have a ton of them already and I have couple that were wrapped in matte black vinyl so I'm good


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> I saw it at microcenter, Im pretty sure i could have gotten inside and taken a nap. way too big for me!


Cosmos II: "That's not a knife..."


Extended Ascension: "...Now that's a knife."

Other faces:


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> Now I'm really annoyed that the side ports were not done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll figure it out as I have plenty of fittings and adapters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res was drained and there's some condensation.
> btw: they threw in an inverter and wire harness for it, ? I didn't get one with my first so this might be something new or as compensation, ? Anyways, I have a ton of them already and I have couple that were wrapped in matte black vinyl so I'm good


Weird. It specifically states on FrozenQ's website that they don't come with inverters any more, and I've never heard of them coming with a wire harness.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> How come nobody ever mentions the Cosmos II? It has room for two 240's and a 360 up top and is very nice to look at. That's what I'll be using anyway...


It looks like it has a halfords roofrack on it......not nice


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> My other concern is, wouldn't you want relatively cooler air blowing across the RAD? Being that heat rises the air coming out of the top vent should be some of the hottest in the case.


Theyre pulling air from outside into the case not taking air from in the case and blowing it out .. it wasnt ideal but it was the best spot to install my h100 or at least I thought so at the time.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I understand that those mountain mods cases are very nice for water cooling, but to me the cosmos 2 looks much better aesthetically and will sit on my desk heck of a lot easier. The only thing that sucks about it is that there is no side window but I messaged the cooler master rep here and he said they are working on a windowed side panel for the cosmos 2.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Cosmos II: "That's not a knife..."
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Extended Ascension: "...Now that's a knife."
> 
> Other faces:


Cosmos 2 is a great case but the price and lack of window really are deal breakers for me. There are plenty of other cases out there that would do a better job at water cooling. The Cosmos really is an air cooler first and then a water cooler imo.

As far as the MM Ext. Ascension, be warned, this is a huge case. I had one and that's one of the down sides its just too massive. Also, for the same money, you can get a Case Labs which is superior to MM imo. They use thicker gauge aluminum and add that finer touch of detail that makes it stand out. With the money for the MM, you can easily get a nice M10 or STH10.

If you want a nice canvas to work on a nice water build, check out the Elysium. It is massive but its still has the tower case design so its not gargantuan as the MM Ext. Ascension. I currently have two SR1-360s in mine. The only mods have been a respray using satin black paint to "improve" the crappy charcoal oem paint finish.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I understand that those mountain mods cases are very nice for water cooling, but to me the cosmos 2 looks much better aesthetically and will sit on my desk heck of a lot easier. The only thing that sucks about it is that there is no side window but I messaged and she said they are working on a window w and he said they are working on a window and side panel for the cosmos 2.


To each there own of course. But I rather like the industrial look. and being able to put 3x360s, and 1x480 in it is a plus (Not that I will be but the option is nice). I plan on a set up of 1x 360 and 1x480 with a total of 13 fans
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wermad*
> 
> Cosmos 2 is a great case but the price and lack of window really are deal breakers for me. There are plenty of other cases out there that would do a better job at water cooling. The Cosmos really is an air cooler first and then a water cooler imo.
> 
> As far as the MM Ext. Ascension, be warned, this is a huge case. I had one and that's one of the down sides its just too massive. Also, for the same money, you can get a Case Labs which is superior to MM imo. They use thicker gauge aluminum and add that finer touch of detail that makes it stand out. With the money for the MM, you can easily get a nice M10 or STH10.
> 
> If you want a nice canvas to work on a nice water build, check out the Elysium. It is massive but its still has the tower case design so its not gargantuan as the MM Ext. Ascension. I currently have two SR1-360s in mine. The only mods have been a respray using satin black paint to "improve" the crappy charcoal oem paint finish.


I will actually be getting the regular Ascension, I was just using that one as a size comparison.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I will actually be getting the regular Ascension, I was just using that one as a size comparison.


Ah, I think that one is a good choice. Are you going with the horizontal mb layout?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ah, I think that one is a good choice. Are you going with the horizontal mb layout?


Of course...lol

Also a mirror black finish

This is what I will be getting + a H-Brace


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Of course...lol
> Also a mirror black finish


Ooooohhh, lots of finger prints with that finish. I would have done wrinkle since the "piano" finish attracts finger prints and dust like crazy.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ooooohhh, lots of finger prints with that finish. I would have done wrinkle since the "piano" finish attracts finger prints and dust like crazy.


Hmm Good point, Also looking at it again can the back panel be rotated 90 deg? I thought I remembered reading that it could but it looks taller than it is wide


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ooooohhh, lots of finger prints with that finish. I would have done wrinkle since the "piano" finish attracts finger prints and dust like crazy.


I thought the same thing when I read you were getting the mirror finnish, I have a MM MB tray for a scratch build I'm doing in the wrinkle finish and would get the case in the same if I were ordering one, but I'm a messy person, always playing with my PC after eating pizza.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm also still strongly considering the TJ-11. Just priced so bonkers...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm also still strongly considering the TJ-11. Just priced so bonkers...




A proper WC case that doesnt have wobbly panels...MM cases are not very good for what you pay.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I thought the same thing when I read you were getting the mirror finnish, I have a MM MB tray for a scratch build I'm doing in the wrinkle finish and would get the case in the same if I were ordering one, but I'm a messy person, always playing with my PC after eating pizza.


If i could do an all acrylic CYO that would be awesome


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> If i could do an all acrylic CYO that would be awesome


Look for DD double wide 21/29 cases. They come stock clear acrylic but you can order in black and white. Its got a few configurations but not as many as MM.

@ B.Negative. The door panels are a bit wobbly, especially the large Ext. Ascension one. The main panels for the frame of the rig is surprisingly strong once assembled. But for this money, I would go for a Case Labs for a more solid build quality.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Look for DD double wide 21/29 cases. They come stock clear acrylic but you can order in black and white. Its got a few configurations but not as many as MM.
> @ B.Negative. The door panels are a bit wobbly, especially the large Ext. Ascension one. The main panels for the frame of the rig is surprisingly strong once assembled. But for this money, I would go for a Case Labs for a more solid build quality.


Unfortunately for everything I plan on packing into the 5.25" bays i need all 10...lol

EDIT: They do have the "Crystal Ship" which is just the ascension with acrylic all the way around, with the exception of the bottom, MB, and back panels.



Unfortunately they do not have it in their Flash CYO-Picker


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Unfortunately for everything I plan on packing into the 5.25" bays i need all 10...lol


yeah, that's the one thing with DD, a few drive bays only. If I were to go with MM, look for a used one, especially the U2UFO. I think this one is the best MM case for the price.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> yeah, that's the one thing with DD, a few drive bays only. If I were to go with MM, look for a used one, especially the U2UFO. I think this one is the best MM case for the price.


The U2UFO is nice, but I really like the Ascension and it would fit under my desk perfectly (I think) the only thing I am not thrilled about with MM is all the "Standard" stuff you have to order in addition to the base case.

Will take a photo of my current setup so you can get an idea of what I am working with

EDIT: PHOTOS:


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Where is this constant supply of water at the intake going to come from if pump is mounted upside down at ceiling ? There would have to be a reservoir higher than ceiling


From the fact that it's a closed loop. pushing water out the exit pushes water in the inlet. If it's bled properly initially, where's the air not water going to come from? Moving water won't hold a bubble in front of the pump - any air in the system will end up trapped in the reservoir.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*


I'll choose door number one, Bob...

That's a clean looking case if I ever saw one.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'll choose door number one, Bob...
> That's a clean looking case if I ever saw one.


You can play around with their "CYO" tool. Its pretty nifty. Helped me narrow down my selection









http://www.mountainmods.com/CYO_picker.php


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Ok, so is there a run on Bitspower fittings or what? No place in the US has any silver or black sparkle 90 single rotaries in stock. Nobody. I need 4 of them for my crystal links...


I feel your pain, I've been waiting too.


----------



## jarble

it is also one of a very select few cases that can fit a mo ra 3 inside


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> it is also one of a very select few cases that can fit a mo ra 3 inside


You might have to explain mo ra 3 to us newbs


----------



## tuffarts

The New EK block style
fitting right in here


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

So Amazon has the TJ-11 for $586 and free shipping so I just snagged one! Really love this case and it has all the features I want/need. Sucks about the price the though.

I know I could have gone with a Case Labs for that money but they honestly just don't appeal to me.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> You might have to explain mo ra 3 to us newbs


it's a radiator


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So Amazon has the TJ-11 for $586 and free shipping so I just snagged one! Really love this case and it has all the features I want/need. Sucks about the price the though.
> I know I could have gone with a Case Labs for that money but they honestly just don't appeal to me.


Awesome







Still too pricey for me tbh but its a stellar case


----------



## derickwm

TJ07 is still my favorite aesthetically pleasing case, it just doesn't quite have all the features I'd like. TJ11 is pretty nice functionally but damn DAT PRICE. I'm just choppin at the bit for a new case, been on a test bench for 6 months


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still too pricey for me tbh but its a stellar case


Thanks! I really can't wait to start building in this case. It came down to the TJ-11 and the Cosmos II but in the end the Silverstone appealed to me enough to justify its cost. Its got a window for one which is important to me, the 90 degree rotation on the mobo tray will show off my gpu blocks better (while also being removable), there is plenty of space for rads and cable management, and it is obviously a high quality piece. I envision this being my case for a very long time....


----------



## wermad

Here's my $200 Elysium











As is tradition with all my builds, wire-management is last


----------



## myrow

My rig:

2 rads: XSPC EX240 & EX280
EK Supreme HF
2 pumps in serial: MCP35X & Laing D5 with custom EK top
EK 680 waterblock

NZXT Switch 810 Special Edition Matte Black
z77x-UD5H
GTX 680
i5 2500k @ 4.5GHZ @ 1.35V @ 62 degrees full load


----------



## mironccr345

@wermad nice to see your res finally came in. Looks wicked cool.

@myrow Nice rig, what coolant did you use?

Just finished my RV02 with a 540mm rad. What do you guys think?


----------



## myrow

@mironccr345 Nice rig










I used Feser One UV Purple.

Glad you like it.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> You might have to explain mo ra 3 to us newbs


My apology's mo-ra3 was one of the biggest rads on the block for a long time

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_913&products_id=29059


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffarts*
> 
> 
> The New EK block style
> fitting right in here


Looks like the hallway from "The Shining".









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So Amazon has the TJ-11 for $586 and free shipping so I just snagged one! Really love this case and it has all the features I want/need. Sucks about the price the though.
> 
> I know I could have gone with a Case Labs for that money but they honestly just don't appeal to me.


Don't see how nobody mentioned Case Labs when you were talkin TJ11. But then of course since it does nothing fer ya...









Personally if I'm spendin 6 bills on a case I'ma get the one that will fit anything I wanna put inside it. So that new CL case is perfect for me. But I do get that it isn't everyone's cuppa jam.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like the hallway from "The Shining".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't see how nobody mentioned Case Labs when you were talkin TJ11. But then of course since it does nothing fer ya...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally if I'm spendin 6 bills on a case I'ma get the one that will fit anything I wanna put inside it. So that new CL case is perfect for me. But I do get that it isn't everyone's cuppa jam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thats how I am looking at my mountain mods purchase (Upcoming)


----------



## tuffarts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like the hallway from "The Shining".


it is
And 2001


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Cosmos II: "That's not a knife..."
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Extended Ascension: "...Now that's a knife."
> 
> Other faces:


Honestly Cosmos II is very beautiful case and PLENTLY room for WC loop. I saw it in person @ FRYS store. just saying..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myrow*
> 
> My rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 2 rads: XSPC EX240 & EX280
> EK Supreme HF
> 2 pumps in serial: MCP35X & Laing D5 with custom EK top
> EK 680 waterblock
> NZXT Switch 810 Special Edition Matte Black
> z77x-UD5H
> GTX 680
> i5 2500k @ 4.5GHZ @ 1.35V @ 62 degrees full load


Neat setup!


----------



## Ninja Hedgehog

So, while we're on the topic of cases...

I'm looking at building a scratch built case, and I'm wondering whether to have the motherboard orientated normally, or inverted, as shown here:



Any advantages to the inverted design?


----------



## superericla

Well, the USPS estimated ship date for my FrozenQ reservoir was wrong. It looks like it'll be here tomorrow though.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninja Hedgehog*
> 
> So, while we're on the topic of cases...
> I'm looking at building a scratch built case, and I'm wondering whether to have the motherboard orientated normally, or inverted, as shown here:
> 
> Any advantages to the inverted design?


The inverted design looks better imo. It might also help with routing tubing and in some cases can help with space for radiators.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> @wermad nice to see your res finally came in. Looks wicked cool.
> @myrow Nice rig, what coolant did you use?
> Just finished my RV02 with a 540mm rad. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL
> 
> 
> ]


Finally someone else ran the tube behind the motherboard tray.









Good coolant choice too.

I did similar w/ my FT02.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finally someone else ran the tube behind the motherboard tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good coolant choice too.
> I did similar w/ my FT02.


I am not sure I understand how this works (Without a lot of excess tubing anyways)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Honestly Cosmos II is very beautiful case and PLENTLY room for WC loop. I saw it in person @ FRYS store. just saying..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat setup!


I am not saying that its not a nice case... I was making a reference point on size (Crocodile Dundee)


----------



## superericla

The point of running tubing behind the motherboard tray is to give a cleaner look to your loop. That way, you don't have tubing running all over the place.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninja Hedgehog*
> 
> So, while we're on the topic of cases...
> I'm looking at building a scratch built case, and I'm wondering whether to have the motherboard orientated normally, or inverted, as shown here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any advantages to the inverted design?


It often helps reduce the amount of piping required and gets everything in a nice logical order.... It also means you get to see your GPU blocks.. but i'm so used to the original order of components that it just looks weird to me.... That said i was quite tempted on my last build.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The point of running tubing behind the motherboard tray is to give a cleaner look to your loop. That way, you don't have tubing running all over the place.


I understand the why, Just not the how


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finally someone else ran the tube behind the motherboard tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good coolant choice too.
> I did similar w/ my FT02.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure I understand how this works (Without a lot of excess tubing anyways)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Honestly Cosmos II is very beautiful case and PLENTLY room for WC loop. I saw it in person @ FRYS store. just saying..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat setup!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am not saying that its not a nice case... I was making a reference point on size (Crocodile Dundee)
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The point of running tubing behind the motherboard tray is to give a cleaner look to your loop. That way, you don't have tubing running all over the place.
> 
> 
> 
> I understand the why, Just not the how
Click to expand...

It's only got 2 access points to the back one low one high. The line in the middle is for draining the loop. Though that's a weird spot imho. The L should be low to high not high to low and the drain should be at the lowest point imho. Still that is a rather strategic placement for half the loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well, the USPS estimated ship date for my FrozenQ reservoir was wrong. It looks like it'll be here tomorrow though.


That sucks mate







. Looks like the postman went back for a second load and was nice enough to add mine to his deliveries. Its up and running and so far no leaks. I'm still bummed about not getting the side ports but I made it work with some fittings. Let me know how yours turns up tomorrow


----------



## phillyd

gonna paint this stripe on my side panel tomorrow, along with a whole bunch of other stuff, including my block, trim, rads, and fan grills.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread is finally UPDATED!!!

on a side note,Wermad...i hope your batteries in your camera die forever...

XD


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thread is finally UPDATED!!!
> on a side note,Wermad...*i hope your batteries in your camera die forever...*
> XD


***...lol


----------



## Ninja Hedgehog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> It often helps reduce the amount of piping required and gets everything in a nice logical order.... It also means you get to see your GPU blocks.. but i'm so used to the original order of components that it just looks weird to me.... That said i was quite tempted on my last build.


Thanks, I'll have a think...


----------



## Carniflex

Well - mountainmods are all nice, but for the price of one you can get a regular case, mod it and then throw in proper custom loop.


This is still work in progress, but that is a 40 euro case + ~360 euros for custom loop and fans (Nova 1080 rad, 5.25'' bay res with 2 pumps, blocks for CPU and GPU tubing n fittings). Sure, these cases are sweet (and TBH time is not "free" so in reality modding the case will end up costing a lot more if you count what your time is worth) but if your on finite budget you can get sort of the same functionality by buying a small drill and drillin some holes in your case.

If you get that MountainMods case you can ofc fit the radiator straight away to the case (or even make it fit inside the case, not that it matters really considering the size of that thing). If mounting outside will need to drill couple of holes for hoses tho.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> @wermad nice to see your res finally came in. Looks wicked cool.
> 
> @myrow Nice rig, what coolant did you use?
> 
> Just finished my RV02 with a 540mm rad. What do you guys think?


I love these setups. They look so clean, almost stock looking


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> @wermad nice to see your res finally came in. Looks wicked cool.
> @myrow Nice rig, what coolant did you use?
> Just finished my RV02 with a 540mm rad. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's looking great







Love the ID dyed blue like that!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's looking great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the ID dyed blue like that!


Thanks Mike, took some time to get the color right.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I love these setups. They look so clean, almost stock looking


Thanks! It does have a stock look to it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myrow*
> 
> @mironccr345 Nice rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used Feser One UV Purple.
> Glad you like it.


You dont see purple alot, so it looks good imo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finally someone else ran the tube behind the motherboard tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good coolant choice too.
> I did similar w/ my FT02.


Thanks! I've seen your rig a few times and I like what you did in the back. Mine isn't as clean as yours, but maybe when I get the right fittings, I'll be able to clean it up.


----------



## simonfredette

I like it when they run in the back like that but like it was said the drain should be on the bottom so you dont need to rock the case to get it empty , mabe he tried and it works though, just not where youd naturally think of putting it. Also I dont think id put a 90 degree L , just run flex tubing for the corner it makes less resistance. I love the pic with the chrome rigid tubing , thats really sick looking and super clean.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I like it when they run in the back like that but like it was said the drain should be on the bottom so you dont need to rock the case to get it empty , mabe he tried and it works though, just not where youd naturally think of putting it. Also I dont think id put a 90 degree L , .


If I ran the tubing lower I would interfere w/ all the cabling. The drain line was actually still below my reservoir so it worked well enough.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> gonna paint this stripe on my side panel tomorrow, along with a whole bunch of other stuff, including my block, trim, rads, and fan grills.


The interior taping isn't straight at the door edge phillyd. It's canted. It's not off by a lot but it's not straight.









~Ceadder


----------



## skitzab1

moving sux this is just trying to sort my room







ans this is whats not being used'

if someone can name each part thay can see in this pic + rep to them hahaha


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The interior taping isn't straight at the door edge phillyd. It's canted. It's not off by a lot but it's not straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yeah thanks for noticing, im going to find a way to get it perfect.


----------



## Da1Nonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm still relatively a noob but the only pump I can see mounted upside-down is a D5 because it can be flipped in the mount so it's flowing right side up.
> I wouldn't recommend running DDC pumps in that orientation without a starter pump in line some place and with a Reservoir above it. This is the problem with mounting pumps to the ceiling of cases is you have to get a good supply of coolant above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could be wrong though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I dont know the exact name....A swiftech m655 with a 5 speed adjuster. Can that be mounted upside down? Trying to make my tubing shorter.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Da1Nonly*
> 
> I dont know the exact name....A swiftech m655 with a 5 speed adjuster. Can that be mounted upside down? Trying to make my tubing shorter.


You can orientate the pump in any direction as long as it has water in it.


----------



## johnko1

Is there any problem if there's too much positive pressure on a case?I'm building a test bench and the bottom floor (all sides covered with aluminum) will have two rx480 sucking air in and one more fan cooling the hdds .There will be mesh where there are fans,as well as on the back so that air can escape.Will this be ok?


----------



## nabarun




----------



## superericla

So, after already waiting for over 4 weeks for my FrozenQ reservoir, it appears as though it's still in California, even though the expected arrival day according to USPS still says yesterday. It didn't arrive... AGAIN

Edit: I contacted FrozenQ and it ends up USPS put it on the wrong truck, which is the only reason it went from PA to CA instead of coming here to MO. While it will eventually get here from CA, I honestly think it's bs that the USPS got the reservoir from PA to CA in only 2 days, yet has taken 2 days just sitting in CA. Priority mail? Not such a priority I guess.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If I ran the tubing lower I would interfere w/ all the cabling. The drain line was actually still below my reservoir so it worked well enough.


That's the problem I had. I ran the tube lower and zip tied the cables so I wont have any issues closing the side panel.


----------



## driftingforlife

Mine at the moment.


----------



## derickwm

I can vouch that USPS has been seriously derpin lately. Was supposed to get a package from my mum on Saturday, still not here


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can vouch that USPS has been seriously derpin lately. Was supposed to get a package from my mum on Saturday, still not here


Intead of shipping my res to MO where I'm actually at, they sent it hundreds of miles out of the way. MO is between PA and CA so it would've been so simple for them to drop it off on the way. This is one reason I don't care about the USPS going bankrupt.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can orientate the pump in any direction as long as it has water in it.


Just for public awareness, it's orient (or be oriented), not orientate.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Just for public awareness, it's orient (or be oriented), not orientate.


No one likes a grammar nazi...especially when they are wrong.

http://www.dailywritingtips.com/do-you-orient-yourself-or-orientate-yourself/
Quote:


> In the UK, it is more common for people to say "orientate" whereas in the US, "orient" is more common. Writers in both countries sometimes bemoan the usage of the alternative word. In fact, both words are acceptable according to the dictionaries.


----------



## Juiced

Lancool k62w + RX360 + EX120


----------



## superericla

I just got a call from the USPS saying they have no idea why my package was sent to California and to try waiting one or two more days for it to show up. It was kind of funny really.


----------



## simonfredette

dam usps , I was sending out a graphics card to a buyer in canada while I am still in the states and they tried charging me double , it was 3.3 lbs and the limit is 4 before price doubles , he told me that once I pack it in a box it would be past 4 and wouldnt weigh it after I packed it . I made a scene and he had to weigh it again packed , 3.79 lbs , it might just be a 15$ diff. but its the principal of it .


----------



## superericla

Yeah I know what you mean. I don't see any point now in paying extra for priority shipping since it's to the point of taking at least double priority mail's estimated ship time of 2-3 days.


----------



## mandrix

I'm shipping an RMA back to Newegg in Cali and the last time I checked UPS it said "Train Derailment".
I guess it's hung up in El Paso.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Just for public awareness, it's orient (or be oriented), not orientate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No one likes a grammar nazi...especially when they are wrong.
> 
> http://www.dailywritingtips.com/do-you-orient-yourself-or-orientate-yourself/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> In the UK, it is more common for people to say "orientate" whereas in the US, "orient" is more common. Writers in both countries sometimes bemoan the usage of the alternative word. In fact, both words are acceptable according to the dictionaries.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I love a good owning.


----------



## mironccr345

MoAr pics.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> MoAr pics.


What fan controller is that , I must have it!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> What fan controller is that , I must have it!


It's this http://www.overclock.net/products/scythe-km03-bk-kaze-master-pro-5-25-black-fan-controller

It's one of the best I've used so far.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> It's this http://www.overclock.net/products/scythe-km03-bk-kaze-master-pro-5-25-black-fan-controller
> It's one of the best I've used so far.


I like that one, but just doesnt have enough controllers on it...lol


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I like that one, but just doesnt have enough controllers on it...lol


get 2 ! or get a 6 fan controller + a 4 fan one .. How are the temp probes are they built in or do you have to run them to where you want the readings to be


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> ahhaha, this reminds me of the guy that washed his motherboard, graphics cards, etc. in a bath tub after cooling with in a fish tank with mineral oil. Probably one of the funniest computer-related things I've ever seen.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> yup, I remember that one, epic


Hey, are you guys talking about me?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I showed my dad that album (he's not exactly a techie). He looked for a moment, shook his head, and walked away.


Heh, my dad does the same thing every time I mention my computer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninja Hedgehog*
> 
> Any links to this?


Here you go. It's also in my sig.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1086749/worklog-the-rebirth-of-mr-bubbles/0_20


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> get 2 ! or get a 6 fan controller + a 4 fan one .. How are the temp probes are they built in or do you have to run them to where you want the readings to be


Run them where you want. It comes with six, but im only using three. One in the front of the case, the middle and the rear.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Run them where you want. It comes with six, but im only using three. One in the front of the case, the middle and the rear.


I hate though , they screw with your cable management , you have this random probe wire going across your board , id have to sleeve it


----------



## KShirza1

sleeved, 560 on the bottom and the gpu's on blocks would make this one sick
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nabarun*


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> Hey, are you guys talking about me?
> Heh, my dad does the same thing every time I mention my computer.
> Here you go. It's also in my sig.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1086749/worklog-the-rebirth-of-mr-bubbles/0_20


ahh the memory makes me tempted to put the farm back together hats off to a fellow oil cooler


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I hate though , they screw with your cable management , you have this random probe wire going across your board , id have to sleeve it


Who says it has to go over your mobo. All mine are hidden and behind the mobo tray.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

What the hell is the deal with supply on water cooled parts??? Now the EK HF Supreme Nickel-Plexi is out of stock everywhere too?!?! Seems like everytime I figure out what I want to do exactly, half the flippin parts are out of stock!!







EK still haven't announced when they are releasing the 7970 Lightning blocks either....


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> What the hell is the deal with supply on water cooled parts??? Now the EK HF Supreme Nickel-Plexi is out of stock everywhere too?!?! Seems like everytime I figure out what I want to do exactly, half the flippin parts are out of stock!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK still haven't announced when they are releasing the 7970 Lightning blocks either....


Its probably just because all the new blocks are coming out http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks/40#post_17415839 , while your there what are your thoughts on the new look


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> get 2 ! or get a 6 fan controller + a 4 fan one .. How are the temp probes are they built in or do you have to run them to where you want the readings to be


I am looking at the 12 Fan Controller by Kaze + a 3 or 4 I dont remember off hand what the other one is


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> So, after already waiting for over 4 weeks for my FrozenQ reservoir, it appears as though it's still in California, even though the expected arrival day according to USPS still says yesterday. It didn't arrive... AGAIN
> 
> Edit: I contacted FrozenQ and it ends up USPS put it on the wrong truck, which is the only reason it went from PA to CA instead of coming here to MO. While it will eventually get here from CA, I honestly think it's bs that the USPS got the reservoir from PA to CA in only 2 days, yet has taken 2 days just sitting in CA. Priority mail? Not such a priority I guess.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I just got a call from the USPS saying they have no idea why my package was sent to California and to try waiting one or two more days for it to show up. It was kind of funny really.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> dam usps , I was sending out a graphics card to a buyer in canada while I am still in the states and they tried charging me double , it was 3.3 lbs and the limit is 4 before price doubles , he told me that once I pack it in a box it would be past 4 and wouldnt weigh it after I packed it . I made a scene and he had to weigh it again packed , 3.79 lbs , it might just be a 15$ diff. but its the principal of it .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Yeah I know what you mean. I don't see any point now in paying extra for priority shipping since it's to the point of taking at least double priority mail's estimated ship time of 2-3 days.


It's time for the Government to end the failed experiment of privatizing USPS. On the face of it, it was a reasonable experiment. However the Federal Employees with a pension fund got included in the process. That should never have happened. They were Federal employees afterall. So when it got dropped out of the Federal Budget they took on the pension debt with it.

I recently had a similar experience. I had a package shipped to me with USPS tracking number on a Friday. Showed that it would be to my door on Monday. Yeah right. Package sat in Arkansas for 4 days and didn't get to me til the following week. Grand total of 10 days from shipment to receipt. It was sent Priority Mail no less. People complain about PPCs' shipping but the reality of it is the USPS system is entirely borked and it was a matter of time til our trusted USPS system came apart at the seams. Yay us.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> What the hell is the deal with supply on water cooled parts??? Now the EK HF Supreme Nickel-Plexi is out of stock everywhere too?!?! Seems like everytime I figure out what I want to do exactly, half the flippin parts are out of stock!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK still haven't announced when they are releasing the 7970 Lightning blocks either....
> 
> 
> 
> Its probably just because all the new blocks are coming out http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks/40#post_17415839 , while your there what are your thoughts on the new look
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link to this. I didn't even know this thread existed.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> So, after already waiting for over 4 weeks for my FrozenQ reservoir, it appears as though it's still in California, even though the expected arrival day according to USPS still says yesterday. It didn't arrive... AGAIN
> Edit: I contacted FrozenQ and it ends up USPS put it on the wrong truck, which is the only reason it went from PA to CA instead of coming here to MO. While it will eventually get here from CA, I honestly think it's bs that the USPS got the reservoir from PA to CA in only 2 days, yet has taken 2 days just sitting in CA. Priority mail? Not such a priority I guess.


Wth is up with usps, sorry to hear that mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can vouch that USPS has been seriously derpin lately. Was supposed to get a package from my mum on Saturday, still not here


With the gov't cut backs, they only issues that have come up with my local office is the longer lines (typical). The crappy attitudes are still abundant








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Intead of shipping my res to MO where I'm actually at, they sent it hundreds of miles out of the way. MO is between PA and CA so it would've been so simple for them to drop it off on the way. This is one reason I don't care about the USPS going bankrupt.


I've had usps do that to a package I sent. It was going to central cali and for some reason they saw fit to send it to Arizona first. The recipient was freaking out thinking i added the wrong address. It was a day late but it arrived to him. The address was correct (per my online receipt w/ tracking) so either they put it on the wrong truck or they handed it off to a local socal courier.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I just got a call from the USPS saying they have no idea why my package was sent to California and to try waiting one or two more days for it to show up. It was kind of funny really.


This is getting weird. Have you contacted Alex?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Yeah I know what you mean. I don't see any point now in paying extra for priority shipping since it's to the point of taking at least double priority mail's estimated ship time of 2-3 days.


Damn right, why pay extra for priority if it takes longer







. I'm sure you can take this up with them but seeing that their hanging by a thread, it maybe futile. I would contact FrozenQ non-the-less to make sure they are aware of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm shipping an RMA back to Newegg in Cali and the last time I checked UPS it said "Train Derailment".
> I guess it's hung up in El Paso.


Wow! I've had a package where it said 'delayed do to tornado". Luckily it arrived so I guess the ups truck was not blown away by the tornado/storm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> Hey, are you guys talking about me?
> Heh, my dad does the same thing every time I mention my computer.
> Here you go. It's also in my sig.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1086749/worklog-the-rebirth-of-mr-bubbles/0_20


I don't recall, but is it you?!?!?!?!? That was epic mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> What the hell is the deal with supply on water cooled parts??? Now the EK HF Supreme Nickel-Plexi is out of stock everywhere too?!?! Seems like everytime I figure out what I want to do exactly, half the flippin parts are out of stock!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK still haven't announced when they are releasing the 7970 Lightning blocks either....


Don't check sidewindercomputers.com as I read Gary is dropping EK over a dispute steaming from EK Nickel-Gate. I haven't checked out their new blocks and tbh and I really won't bother.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I am looking at the 12 Fan Controller by Kaze + a 3 or 4 I dont remember off hand what the other one is


Is that the Scythe Kaze? I had their Kaze Master Pro with read out display and then I got their twelve channel Kaze controller. I loved the 12 channel controller but it heated up like crazy; too much for my comfort. Plus, it had 12w per channel, which isn't bad but I would rather have a few channels with higher wattage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's time for the Government to end the failed experiment of privatizing USPS. On the face of it, it was a reasonable experiment. However the Federal Employees with a pension fund got included in the process. That should never have happened. They were Federal employees afterall. So when it got dropped out of the Federal Budget they took on the pension debt with it.
> I recently had a similar experience. I had a package shipped to me with USPS tracking number on a Friday. Showed that it would be to my door on Monday. Yeah right. Package sat in Arkansas for 4 days and didn't get to me til the following week. Grand total of 10 days from shipment to receipt. It was sent Priority Mail no less. People complain about PPCs' shipping but the reality of it is the USPS system is entirely borked and it was a matter of time til our trusted USPS system came apart at the seams. Yay us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link to this. I didn't even know this thread existed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think we're at the point where we can't afford to keep usps and we can't afford to lose them. Its a catch 22 imho. My local branch could do with an attitude change over and more personal. The local carriers are nice except some just don't give a rats arse. I've been to the branches in the nice and upper classy communities and the workers are much more friendlier. I remember when the local post office reps would tell me to wait in line to drop off *prepaid* packages and the office near my job (tech-industry area) would be all smiles and tell me to just leave em there and not to stand in line. Yeah, its a broken system that can't fail or be fixed. Meh


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that the Scythe Kaze? I had their Kaze Master Pro with read out display and then I got their twelve channel Kaze controller. I loved the 12 channel controller but it heated up like crazy; too much for my comfort. Plus, it had 12w per channel, which isn't bad but I would rather have a few channels with higher wattage.


Yes, I chose it cause I will have something like 14 or 15 fans, and I am pretty much maxing out the 10 5.25" bays on the MM Ascension Case I will be using. Eventually I might add a pedestal to my MM build which would give me a few more 5.25" bay slots...
Scythe Kaze Q12


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think we're at the point where we can't afford to keep usps and we can't afford to lose them. Its a catch 22 imho. My local branch could do with an attitude change over and more personal. The local carriers are nice except some just don't give a rats arse. I've been to the branches in the nice and upper classy communities and the workers are much more friendlier. I remember when the local post office reps would tell me to wait in line to drop off *prepaid* packages and the office near my job (tech-industry area) would be all smiles and tell me to just leave em there and not to stand in line. Yeah, its a broken system that can't fail or be fixed. Meh


Whenever I go to my local post office, everyone is usually friendly and pretty quick as there is usually a line. I've been going there for a few years and it has always been the same two guys mailing my packages haha.

On another note, how does a dual 140 rad + 180 single rad sound for cooling an i7 3930k and a GTX 680?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Yes, I chose it cause I will have something like 14 or 15 fans, and I am pretty much maxing out the 10 5.25" bays on the MM Ascension Case I will be using. Eventually I might add a pedestal to my MM build which would give me a few more 5.25" bay slots...
> Scythe Kaze Q12


Its good for a max of 144w but I always try to not overload each channel. Still underloading each channel is said to cause the heating I experienced. After getting four buzzing controllers, I found an authentic Lamptron with five channels and a robust 60w per channel. I'm running about 14 fans this time around so that is plenty as I have 300w at my disposal. The only downer is that I only have three modes: 0v, 7v (my favorite as the fans are uber quiet), and 12v (loud but not annoyingly loud







).

I really wanted to stick with the NZXT Mix but I was just not catching a break with the controllers. I went through two Akazas, one Lamptonr FC2, and the Mix and all had the buzzing effect. Even the guys at ppcs.com were scratching their heads. I had plenty of different fans to test so I knew it was a serious case of bad luck. Ppcs.com contacted NZXT and they gave me a credit. At least NZXT was interested in why it was buzzing so I sent it off to them.


----------



## superericla

I did contact FrozenQ. They're aware of the issue, stated that for some reason it happens sometimes but it has happened before, and asked if there was anything they could do to help resolve the issue. They also told me to be sure to let them know of any other complications that come up. I must say, FrozenQ's customer support is quick to reply and top notch. It's the best company I've dealt with so far.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Whenever I go to my local post office, everyone is usually friendly and pretty quick as there is usually a line. I've been going there for a few years and it has always been the same two guys mailing my packages haha.
> On another note, how does a dual 140 rad + 180 single rad sound for cooling an i7 3930k and a GTX 680?
> Jeffinslaw


Yeah, I live in a good neighborhood. Its not a suburb nor an upscale one, or a ghetto.

That should be ok for you setup. Your SBE does produce a bit of heat but the 680 will not dump a lot. If you pair the rads with good fans you should be fine. Which case do you have btw?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I did contact FrozenQ. They're aware of the issue, stated that for some reason it happens sometimes but it has happened before, and asked if there was anything they could do to help resolve the issue. They also told me to be sure to let them know of any other complications that come up. I must say, FrozenQ's customer support is quick to reply and top notch. It's the best company I've dealt with so far.


Kewl. I'll take back my irate tirade of black-listing them since I'm in love with the helix res again







My wife and little one love it too







Its just super cool looking.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, I live in a good neighborhood. Its not a suburb nor an upscale one, or a ghetto.
> That should be ok for you setup. Your SBE does produce a bit of heat but the 680 will not dump a lot. If you pair the rads with good fans you should be fine. Which case do you have btw?


Changed to a dual 120, the dual 140 won't fit... and I'm going to be modding an old PowerMac G5. This thing is CRAMPED compared to some cases. I'm going with some Fractal fans as they will all match (two 120's, two 60's and two 80's). Also going with a Bitfenix Spectre Pro non LED White 200mm. I'll need to figure out a way to mount the Bitfenix to the 180 because it is a 200mm fan. The SilverStone fans didn't look very appealing.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its good for a max of 144w but I always try to not overload each channel. Still underloading each channel is said to cause the heating I experienced. After getting four buzzing controllers, I found an authentic Lamptron with five channels and a robust 60w per channel. I'm running about 14 fans this time around so that is plenty as I have 300w at my disposal. The only downer is that I only have three modes: 0v, 7v (my favorite as the fans are uber quiet), and 12v (loud but not annoyingly loud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> I really wanted to stick with the NZXT Mix but I was just not catching a break with the controllers. I went through two Akazas, one Lamptonr FC2, and the Mix and all had the buzzing effect. Even the guys at ppcs.com were scratching their heads. I had plenty of different fans to test so I knew it was a serious case of bad luck. Ppcs.com contacted NZXT and they gave me a credit. At least NZXT was interested in why it was buzzing so I sent it off to them.


I would prefer to keep to one fan per channel and I plan on going with the 120mm Yate Loons


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Changed to a dual 120, the dual 140 won't fit... and I'm going to be modding an old PowerMac G5. This thing is CRAMPED compared to some cases. I'm going with some Fractal fans as they will all match (two 120's, two 60's and two 80's). Also going with a Bitfenix Spectre Pro non LED White 200mm. I'll need to figure out a way to mount the Bitfenix to the 180 because it is a 200mm fan. The SilverStone fans didn't look very appealing.
> Jeffinslaw


I have to say those fractal design fans are rubbish at best,save yourself the heartache and swap them out. You will regret buying them.

Thread UPDATED.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have to say those fractal design fans are rubbish at best,save yourself the heartache and swap them out. You will regret buying them.
> Thread UPDATED.


Whats the issue with them I nearly got some.... Break quickly?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> Whats the issue with them I nearly got some.... Break quickly?


They move next to no air,it has been commented on a few times.


----------



## Krahe

Well just got home from work and checked the tracking number for my 480 rad and some fittings and it says "delivered and signed for" which is impossible as I have been at work all day and my wife is working in another city atm. Not very happy!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Well just got home from work and checked the tracking number for my 480 rad and some fittings and it says "delivered and signed for" which is impossible as I have been at work all day and my wife is working in another city atm. Not very happy!


My FrozenQ shipment was accidentally put on a truck to California where it's been sitting for two days unshipped. The USPS website still estimates it'll make it to me two days ago.


----------



## mandrix

Backing up to the Scythe Kaze Master Pro, that's what I'm RMA'ing back to Newegg for replacement. Darn thing worked all of 1 minute. Shut off pc and the psu wouldn't restart until I pulled it out. Hope the replacement is better.
I've had crap luck with Newegg stuff the last few months, but some of it is good since the H100 crapped out I decided to put in the Rasa kit and now I'm full blown hooked on water cooling. Er, well it's not good on the wallet though.

I'm currently using a Sunbeam Rheostat 6 channel, it works good, has heat sinks to dissipate heat, only thing I don't like is the bright illuminated knobs. It's like a super night light and pc is in bedroom. But you can run multiple fans per channel with no problems heating up.


----------



## nabarun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1*
> 
> sleeved, 560 on the bottom and the gpu's on blocks would make this one sick
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nabarun*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting on my EK Waterblocks
> 
> more pictures soon
Click to expand...


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think we're at the point where we can't afford to keep usps and we can't afford to lose them. Its a catch 22 imho. My local branch could do with an attitude change over and more personal. The local carriers are nice except some just don't give a rats arse. I've been to the branches in the nice and upper classy communities and the workers are much more friendlier. I remember when the local post office reps would tell me to wait in line to drop off *prepaid* packages and the office near my job (tech-industry area) would be all smiles and tell me to just leave em there and not to stand in line. Yeah, its a broken system that can't fail or be fixed. Meh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whenever I go to my local post office, everyone is usually friendly and pretty quick as there is usually a line. I've been going there for a few years and it has always been the same two guys mailing my packages haha.
> 
> On another note, how does a dual 140 rad + 180 single rad sound for cooling an i7 3930k and a GTX 680?
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

As much as it sucks to deal with some of the stuff at the Post Office, we need to support it. That is a TON of jobs in the United States that will be lost if it closes down.

Wanna know how you can make it better? Sign up for tons of junk mail. Credit card offers, flyers to every store known to man, etc. Just shred the paper and recycle and your impact will be felt. My cousin works for the Post Office, and said it got real bad during the slow times... nothing going out. Now that the economy is improving its starting to get back to normal load of shipping letters and packages around. The more money we have coming into them the better.

Aside from that, I still prefer UPS for a shipping method. But hey, what are ya gonna do.


----------



## axipher

Anyone have some tips on the best way to cut the bottom of my 5.25" bay area out of my Core 1000 so I can fit a 240 mm radiator in?


----------



## mironccr345

There's already a hole on the bottom of the 5.25" bay, so you wont have to cut a lot out. Pop the rivets out, measure and make the cut. Are you going to use a single 5.25" bay res/pump?
Here's a few pics of how i did it for my Source 220.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> There's already a hole on the bottom of the 5.25" bay, so you wont have to cut a lot out. Pop the rivets out, measure and make the cut. Are you going to use a single 5.25" bay res/pump?
> Here's a few pics of how i did it for my Source 220.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What tool did you use?

And popping the rivets out isn't really an option. I got the case powder-coated without taking rivets out so they are completely covered now, I don't want to risk a chunk of of chipping off when I remove some rivets.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> What tool did you use?
> 
> And popping the rivets out isn't really an option. I got the case powder-coated without taking rivets out so they are completely covered now, I don't want to risk a chunk of of chipping off when I remove some rivets.


I used a dremel to make the cut. It's going to be difficult making that cut without popping the 5.25" bay out. But Im sure if you take your time and use a lot of masking tape, you'll be ok.


----------



## superericla

I just got a call back from the local USPS. The FrozenQ res has arrived but appears to have been opened and resealed. I hope it's okay. Updates soon.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> What tool did you use?
> 
> And popping the rivets out isn't really an option. I got the case powder-coated without taking rivets out so they are completely covered now, I don't want to risk a chunk of of chipping off when I remove some rivets.
> 
> 
> 
> I used a dremel to make the cut. It's going to be difficult making that cut without popping the 5.25" bay out. But Im sure if you take your time and use a lot of masking tape, you'll be ok.
Click to expand...

Hmm, now to find myself a friend with a Dremel...

Mine died to I've been stuck using a hack saw for all my modding...


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I just got a call back from the local USPS. The FrozenQ res has arrived *but appears to have been opened and resealed*. I hope it's okay. Updates soon.


Lol... That's a shame... I don't know how things work in the USA, but here, I'd have denounced that.
Hope it's okay mate


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ram arrived today...along with some other goodies..


----------



## axipher

Loving the stainless steel pipe.

Also, have you considered getting that motherboard block chromed?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Loving the stainless steel pipe.
> 
> Also, have you considered getting that motherboard block chromed?


Its chromed copper pipe and the MIPS block top is acetal,cant chrome that.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Loving the stainless steel pipe.
> 
> Also, have you considered getting that motherboard block chromed?
> 
> 
> 
> Its chromed copper pipe and the MIPS block top is acetal,cant chrome that.
Click to expand...

Ever since working a year straight with stainless steel pipe in a nuclear plant, I've wanted to do a build with it.

And that's no good then, it would be way to hard to get non-metal painted silver and match the rest. Still looks amazing though.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ram arrived today...along with some other goodies..


yeah that rigid tuping is great , is it copper and painted ?


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ram arrived today...along with some other goodies..


on nom nom nom looking nice!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have to say those fractal design fans are rubbish at best,save yourself the heartache and swap them out. You will regret buying them.
> Thread UPDATED.


Oh well, too late. I couldn't find any other fans that appealed to me that came in all the sizes I need. I'm sure they'll be fine. If not, I'll just get some different ones. It's really only the 120s that are going on a radiator. The 80s will be used as exhaust, and the 60s will be used to cool down my PSU. If you're wondering about how those fans will be used to cool the PSU, you can look up "G5 mod" on Google and quickly see how it'll be done.

Jeffinslaw.


----------



## bomberjun

A working in progress.

360 Rad at the bottom cage of 800D.


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> A working in progress.
> 360 Rad at the bottom cage of 800D.


bloody hell thats a tight fit ( i wouldnt manage it with my current PSU which is so long!) also arnt you cutting out the two tubing holes having it stood on its side? Can you turn it so its lying flat? then you could still use the holes.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Alright, the TJ11, EK HF nickel-plexi, and RIVE EK nickel-plexi have all shipped and should arrive by tomorrow. Had to spread out the orders as water cooling parts supplies seem to be low. Performance-PCs had the mobo block but I had to order the CPU block from eBay while the case is coming from Amazon. Pictures to follow!


----------



## bomberjun

@zander

Im good with it. Instead of using the holes, ill cover it later and make another route for my tube. Yes, its really tight! I did cut the front panel where you insert the hdd in a stock 800D for me to use the 1 inch space up front. I cant also lay it down because it will hit the headers of my psu.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have to say those fractal design fans are rubbish at best,save yourself the heartache and swap them out. You will regret buying them.
> Thread UPDATED.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, too late. I couldn't find any other fans that appealed to me that came in all the sizes I need. I'm sure they'll be fine. If not, I'll just get some different ones. It's really only the 120s that are going on a radiator. The 80s will be used as exhaust, and the 60s will be used to cool down my PSU. If you're wondering about how those fans will be used to cool the PSU, you can look up "G5 mod" on Google and quickly see how it'll be done.
> 
> Jeffinslaw.
Click to expand...

Should just got some Yate Loons and saved some money on the 120s'. Would have been much better imho.









I'm flogging my system with an unlapped 1100T and it's running 38c @ an ambient of 18c. Using D12SH-12C 120x20 Yates at 3/4 on the fan controller.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> A working in progress.
> 
> 360 Rad at the bottom cage of 800D.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










That's simply awesome.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should just got some Yate Loons and saved some money on the 120s'. Would have been much better imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I bought the Fractal fans from US NCIX and they were like 3 cents cheaper (the 120's)







haha not too much savings there. I'll see how they are though. Right now, they won't be going on any radiators. That will have to wait until purchase #3! Can't wait to get started!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## bundymania

Check this out...very small rads


----------



## derickwm

What's the thickness on those?


----------



## superericla

The FrozenQ res finally arrived and looks great.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What's the thickness on those?


45mm and 60mm.....it's on the box.


----------



## derickwm

I'm studying for a final in two hours, mind is somewhere else









Thanks for pointing that out though lol


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Check this out...very small rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The crooked logos would drive me nuts. They look nice though


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm studying for a final in two hours, mind is somewhere else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for pointing that out though lol


haha, no problem. For some reason I was looking at the box and noticed it.


----------



## zdude

whats the best waterblock out there right now for the xeon server CPU's, i may just get a pair of unlocked ES CPU's so they will be running at the max (and max heat) so i would like to look into the best of the best disregarding price...


----------



## derickwm

Xeons aren't hot. Im assuming you're talking about the 2011 socket. Get a pair EKs or HK blocks. RayStorms aren't that great for 2011.


----------



## zdude

the thing that made me wonder was the 150W TDP....

that plus the fact the I will OC them to the max i can get them to run at stable and i will be pushing A LOT of heat of (8core and a target of 4.5GHz).


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Xeons aren't hot. Im assuming you're talking about the 2011 socket. Get a pair EKs or HK blocks. RayStorms aren't that great for 2011.


I like my 1156 Xeon for that reason, easy to keep cool. I figure a RX240 with two AP-15's should be more than adequate to cool it.


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Xeons aren't hot. Im assuming you're talking about the 2011 socket. Get a pair EKs or HK blocks. RayStorms aren't that great for 2011.


yea i head the EKs are better for the 2011 socket...

off topic GL on your exam derick


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Xeons aren't hot. Im assuming you're talking about the 2011 socket. Get a pair EKs or HK blocks. RayStorms aren't that great for 2011.
> 
> 
> 
> yea i head the EKs are better for the 2011 socket...
> 
> off topic GL on your exam derick
Click to expand...

+1

Good luck 

P.S.: I see you're back to stalking me eh...


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Xeons aren't hot. Im assuming you're talking about the 2011 socket. Get a pair EKs or HK blocks. RayStorms aren't that great for 2011.
> 
> 
> 
> yea i head the EKs are better for the 2011 socket...
> 
> off topic GL on your exam derick
Click to expand...

I was to the understanding that Koolance 370s were the best for 2011...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> whats the best waterblock out there right now for the xeon server CPU's, i may just get a pair of unlocked ES CPU's so they will be running at the max (and max heat) so i would like to look into the best of the best disregarding price...


I am running dual 1366 X5650 hexacore xeons and im using HK 3's.


----------



## derickwm

Thanks guys









Zdude: if you can get a pair of the 8 cores xeons to 4.5 then you'll be a god in my book. Get some EK blocks and a 480mm rad to start.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zdude: if you can get a pair of the 8 cores xeons to 4.5 then you'll be a god in my book. Get some EK blocks and a 480mm rad to start.


I will be trying if i can get this to go through but at least 4ghz for sure


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> the thing that made me wonder was the 150W TDP....
> that plus the fact the I will OC them to the max i can get them to run at stable and i will be pushing A LOT of heat of (8core and a target of 4.5GHz).


I assume you are wanting a SR-X? Not seen any unlocked 2011 Xeons yet,even Coolmiester got retail chips and he always gets ES chips
Prepare for bclk madness...


----------



## derickwm

Even 4Ghz would be a god in my book. I don't think you've done your research on them









B Negative; this has been on the back of my mind for a bit. As much as I love the copper tubing, why didn't you do the loop in a more effective way? Chipset->cpu2->cpu1->mosfets? I'd draw a picture but I'm on my phone. Just would look cleaner, although if you didn't do it because of limitations in bending the tubing at that small of lengths I understand.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Even 4Ghz would be a god in my book. I don't think you've done your research on them


+1
its no SR 2....not while Intel puts the brakes on the CPUs


----------



## derickwm

Zdude; keep an eye out for my future posts. I'll be doing a comparison of a pair of 1366 xeons vs a pair of 2011 xeons hopefully in the next couple weeks


----------



## zdude

yeah they are going into an sr-x and according to the guy i am getting them from they are ES E5-2687W ( and last time i checked all intel ES chips are unlocked)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> whats the best waterblock out there right now for the xeon server CPU's, i may just get a pair of unlocked ES CPU's so they will be running at the max (and max heat) so i would like to look into the best of the best disregarding price...


There are no unlocked SB-EP Xeons that have 2 QPIs unfortunately.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Even 4Ghz would be a god in my book. I don't think you've done your research on them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B Negative; this has been on the back of my mind for a bit. As much as I love the copper tubing, why didn't you do the loop in a more effective way? Chipset->cpu2->cpu1->mosfets? I'd draw a picture but I'm on my phone. Just would look cleaner, although if you didn't do it because of limitations in bending the tubing at that small of lengths I understand.


Purely aesthetic,I didn't want any crossing tubes and some of the small routes would of been a PITA,as it is the GPUs will get the flow first..not ideal but I have 2 24v D5s giving great flow to compensate


----------



## derickwm

2011 ES chips aren't really "unlocked in the normal sense" they have turbo, but even then it sometimes isn't as effective as the turbo in retail chips. I've been chatting with different "distributors" for the past 4 or 5 months and I have yet to see any 2687Ws that were able to go above 3.4. None have used an sr-x so I wish you luck







if you buy some please share your results with me.

Have you done much testing with the koolance 24v controller? I've been contemplating getting myself one but havent seen huge increase from it so I'm hesitant.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its all down to which d5 variant you get,the 'strong' d5 pump that koolance sells for instance, does work well apparently.


----------



## derickwm

I see...


----------



## driftingforlife

I have that pump and the 24v adapter, made more noise and not much else but there was a review and it was as good as 2 12v D5's in parallel.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The FrozenQ res finally arrived and looks great.


----------



## superericla

Finally got my loop put back together now that the tubing and FrozenQ res have arrived. It's nice not going on OCN on an iPod Touch.


----------



## vincent198

Im a intern at a metal factory, they wanted to trow away some airco systems, i saved them and check what i found


















Has a total area of 19500 cm2 wich is 22 times bigger than a normal 240mm rad









There was a problem, the copper pipes in the rad were cut off, so i had to connect them, i am going to cover it up later on ill update then.

dimensions: 100 x 20 x 11 cm


----------



## soul801

Hey guys tell me what you think of my new loop.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vincent198*
> 
> Im a intern at a metal factory, they wanted to trow away some airco systems, i saved them and check what i found
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has a total area of 19500 cm2 wich is 22 times bigger than a normal 240mm rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was a problem, the copper pipes in the rad were cut off, so i had to connect them, i am going to cover it up later on ill update then.
> 
> dimensions: 100 x 20 x 11 cm


I'm jealous. Excited to see what you do


----------



## phillyd

Update do my build. check out the build log in the sig!


----------



## superericla

I'll just leave this here...


----------



## wermad

Did you get side ports? I only have one port on each end









Btw, there's been a lot of talk of LG2011 blocks. I'm using the cpu-360 and @ 4.665 my temps are under 60°c.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Just added a radiator from my volvo's AC system i tore out a year ago, still needs something to get the heat off it. I'm probably going to build a new back plate for the case and integrate it into the case, or just build a new case from scratch out of lexan


----------



## ginger_nuts

Get a car fan maybe noisy a bit, but it should be 12v powered.

Also what did you use to clean the oil out of it?


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

hooked it up to a pressure washer to clean it out. Plus the AC system had been discharged for about 5 years


----------



## derickwm

I'll be getting to the desert in a week. Thinking about setting up my radiators in front of the AC unit included in the apartment, any particular reason why I shouldn't?


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

you will be really hot?


----------



## AoHxBram

Just a pic of my build, already a member.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Btw, there's been a lot of talk of LG2011 blocks.


What have you heard? I'd like to know, since I'm running a 3960.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Btw, there's been a lot of talk of LG2011 blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> What have you heard? I'd like to know, since I'm running a 3960.
Click to expand...

I think he meant recently in the thread







ek, HK, and koolance are pretty solid. I haven't heard too much from aqua computer, that one Aussie who did the quad gtx 580 build in a MM case is running them with a 3960x. May want to hit him up, and let us know








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> you will be really hot?


That it? Worth it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> What have you heard? I'd like to know, since I'm running a 3960.


Apparently, some blocks don't make good contact with the cpu and have slightly poor performance (LG2011). I've been using the Koolance cpu-360 on a SB and SBE and I've never had anything unusual. One thing that I see a lot discussed is the Raystorm doesn't perform optimally on LG2011 but works great with SB/IB.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did you get side ports? I only have one port on each end












Shoulda got two on the CCL end and one on the other end. Not sure how Frozen-Q could leave one of the ports out. The CCL is central to the build after all.









If you only got one I'm sure someone fudged at their end and you should say something. I know I would.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shoulda got two on the CCL end and one on the other end. Not sure how Frozen-Q could leave one of the ports out. The CCL is central to the build after all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you only got one I'm sure someone fudged at their end and you should say something. I know I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


At this point, to send it back, wait a week for them to receive it, then wait a month to get the correct one...Ill stick with this one. I have a few fittings and a cube fitting that I used to plumb everything. It looks good and works great. I do recall there were two top ports and two bottom ports (along with the side ports I requested for the bottom piece) when I got my first helix res. I don't want to bother Alex since I know they're super busy. I'll just take as is.


----------



## Electrocutor

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?281365-DT-Sniper-Waterblock

... still waiting for some testing data from people. *pokes Stren*


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Apparently, some blocks don't make good contact with the cpu and have slightly poor performance (LG2011). I've been using the Koolance cpu-360 on a SB and SBE and I've never had anything unusual. One thing that I see a lot discussed is the Raystorm doesn't perform optimally on LG2011 but works great with SB/IB.


I currently have the EK acrylic/nickel for my CPU and RIVE. But then also, wouldn't where and how much thermal paste is applied also play a role in how well the CPU is cooled?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shoulda got two on the CCL end and one on the other end. Not sure how Frozen-Q could leave one of the ports out. The CCL is central to the build after all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you only got one I'm sure someone fudged at their end and you should say something. I know I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, to send it back, wait a week for them to receive it, then wait a month to get the correct one...I stick with this one. I have a few fittings an a cube fitting that I used to plumb everything. It looks good and works great. I do recall there were two top ports and two bottom ports (along with the side ports I requested for the bottom piece). I don't want to bother Alex since I know they're super busy. I'll just take as is.
Click to expand...

You should at least mention it and mention what you said here. You paid for the full unit you should get the full unit. Not something halfa55ed. Unintentional or not it is that and you shouldn't lay down and take it cause you had to wait so long. If nothing else have em send you another and offer to ship the other one back when you have the new one and everything looks copacetic.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You should at least mention it and mention what you said here. You paid for the full unit you should get the full unit. Not something halfa55ed. Unintentional or not it is that and you shouldn't lay down and take it cause you had to wait so long. If nothing else have em send you another and offer to ship the other one back when you have the new one and everything looks copacetic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You have a point







. I'll hit up Alex to see what he says.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I bought the Fractal fans from US NCIX and they were like 3 cents cheaper (the 120's)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha not too much savings there. I'll see how they are though. Right now, they won't be going on any radiators. That will have to wait until purchase #3! Can't wait to get started!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Yeah I have to do my base upgrade then my WC upgrade... so i hear ya there... I thought I just read that the fractals were crap... Thought it was in this thread too. idk it may have been a dream...lol


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'll be getting to the desert in a week. Thinking about setting up my radiators in front of the AC unit included in the apartment, any particular reason why I shouldn't?


depends how much that AC unit will cool your water - too much and you may risk the chance of getting condensation. Now if you had all that cold air going through your rads and also into your case youd be good to go.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Yeah I have to do my base upgrade then my WC upgrade... so i hear ya there... I thought I just read that the fractals were crap... Thought it was in this thread too. idk it may have been a dream...lol


Right now it's main components as purchase 1, then a good graphics card as 2, then water cooling for 3, and then finally, another HDD and SSD, and some RAM for when I put OS X Lion on my system. Going to be a looonnnggggg summer!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Right now it's main components as purchase 1, then a good graphics card as 2, then water cooling for 3, and then finally, another HDD and SSD, and some RAM for when I put OS X Lion on my system. Going to be a looonnnggggg summer!
> Jeffinslaw


My upgrades are built/bought based around my school schedule...lol (Summer, Fall, Spring)


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> depends how much that AC unit will cool your water - too much and you may risk the chance of getting condensation. Now if you had all that cold air going through your rads and also into your case youd be good to go.


i don't think running AC over the radiators will cause and condensation i the computer itself. Coolant lines will be brought back above room temp long before they enter back into the computers case, and i doubt the AC would even cool the radiator that much. I ran a 120mm radiator into my freezer and cranked the freezer up to max but the radiator still cause everything in the freezer to melt.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> I ran a 120mm radiator into my freezer and cranked the freezer up to max but the radiator still cause everything in the freezer to melt.


I like your way of thinking, pic's plz


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I like your way of thinking, pic's plz


I did this before i moved home for the summer and never took photos. Refrigerators/Freezers are designed to get the inside down to a certain temperature and maintain that temperature by periodically turning on and cooling more. Albeit I got my Idle temp down to about 9c, as soon as I put any decent load on the system it would melt all the ice in the freezer in about 15 minutes and have no noticeable decreases in temp. In fact this caused my temps to go higher than usual because there was no where for the hot air to go once it overpowered the freezer.

I added fans. i just wanted to see how effective a new rad might be but so far nothing to write home about.....


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I did this before i moved home for the summer and never took photos. Refrigerators/Freezers are designed to get the inside down to a certain temperature and maintain that temperature by periodically turning on and cooling more. Albeit I got my Idle temp down to about 9c, as soon as I put any decent load on the system it would melt all the ice in the freezer in about 15 minutes and have no noticeable decreases in temp. In fact this caused my temps to go higher than usual because there was no where for the hot air to go once it overpowered the freezer.
> 
> I added fans. i just wanted to see how effective a new rad might be but so far nothing to write home about.....


you should get a pair of 200mm (that looks about that size) fans and pop em on there


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

the top fan is 130cfm and the bottom two are 100cfm, but i think the issue might be the fact that i have them all pulling through the radiator and not pushing. Also, for folding, am I better off liquid cooling my cpu (2600k @ 5ghz) or my gtx 560 ti and overclocking it? i can only do one atm because i cant afford to buy another block right now.


----------



## simonfredette

how high can you run your sandy without the water , GPU's are pretty powerfull folders for sure and if you can get a decent clock on load then Id go GPU , I mean stock that CPU should get you over 10 k PPD easy , probably even 15K easily but folding with the GPU on air will get pretty hot pretty fast if you can cool it down and overclock it , go for it. My 2 cents , get the advice from someone whos done alot more folding ( kinda like you ) I fold for stability check , stress testing my OC's


----------



## Krahe

This is my 580 its been folding non stop for over 13 days now, not to cure cancer or anything trivial like that, its so my room is toasty warm when i get up in the morning, winter here!


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> how high can you run your sandy without the water , GPU's are pretty powerfull folders for sure and if you can get a decent clock on load then Id go GPU , I mean stock that CPU should get you over 10 k PPD easy , probably even 15K easily but folding with the GPU on air will get pretty hot pretty fast if you can cool it down and overclock it , go for it. My 2 cents , get the advice from someone whos done alot more folding ( kinda like you ) I fold for stability check , stress testing my OC's


2600k should get far more than 10-15k PPD. my i7-3770k @ 4.7GHz gets about 39k PPD


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> how high can you run your sandy without the water , GPU's are pretty powerfull folders for sure and if you can get a decent clock on load then Id go GPU , I mean stock that CPU should get you over 10 k PPD easy , probably even 15K easily but folding with the GPU on air will get pretty hot pretty fast if you can cool it down and overclock it , go for it. My 2 cents , get the advice from someone whos done alot more folding ( kinda like you ) I fold for stability check , stress testing my OC's


Well i've never ran my cpu on air cooling. So i have no idea what it would overclock to. As for the gpu, I have no idea how much more performance I could get out of the gpu by switching it over to the liquid cooling. i guess i'll give it a shot and see what happens.


----------



## Starbomba

Even though i finished my loops quite a while ago, i haven't posted yet. So here they are my two WC'd computers









First, my HTPC. It was based on a modded el cheapo case. You can see how i cut it on my work log










Spoiler: Images








And my sig rig. Proudly one of the few WC'd i3's










Spoiler: Images


----------



## simonfredette

42 degrees max at 100 % load , is that water cooled .. and 45 degree on the CPU is pretty decent , Ive been stuck folding on a laptop because im in a hotel out of the country , I have the A/C set to 62 degrees and my CPU load temps are 70 and I cant use the GPU or it quickly climbs to 80's and 90's and gets glitchy , I have it off of table and the fans are dusted . I cant wait to get home


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

The H60 block was in no way shape or form going on the gtx 560. Whats a cheap decent gtx 560 block for a non-reference card?


----------



## simonfredette

like a universal block ?


----------



## simonfredette

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14556/ex-blc-1012/EK_VGA_Supreme_HF_-Bridge_Edition-_Universal_High_Performance_VGA_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_Bridge_Edition_-_Acetal.html?tl=g30c357s922

Like these !?


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

The MSI Gtx560 has a funky pattern that I dont know will work with standard universal gpu blocks:


----------



## simonfredette

That does look really wide , wed have to get someone who has one to tell us what size the block covers , and then youd need passive coolers for those vrm's ideally .


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> the thing that made me wonder was the 150W TDP....
> that plus the fact the I will OC them to the max i can get them to run at stable and i will be pushing A LOT of heat of (8core and a target of 4.5GHz).


My i7 has a TDP of 130W, and with my 3.8GHz OC, It only pulls 80W folding @ 1.35V (according to hwinfo).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> i don't think running AC over the radiators will cause and condensation i the computer itself. *Coolant lines will be brought back above room temp long before they enter back into the computers case*, and i doubt the AC would even cool the radiator that much. *I ran a 120mm radiator into my freezer and cranked the freezer up to max but the radiator still cause everything in the freezer to melt.*


Why on earth would they? where's all that heat going to come from?

Phase change cooling systems are not all alike. AC systems are designed to move a lot of heat at not a lot of temperature differential. Freezers are designed to get to a lower temperature, but with much less capacity to move heat (fewer BTU/hr). There's just no way a standard freezer can move 4-500BTU/hr while holding 0F, whereas a small window unit can move 6000BTU/hr. If you check, you'll even find that they use different (optimized) refrigerants as well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> The MSI Gtx560 has a funky pattern that I dont know will work with standard universal gpu blocks:


Which model do you have?


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> My i7 has a TDP of 130W, and with my 3.8GHz OC, It only pulls 80W folding @ 1.35V (according to hwinfo).
> Why on earth would they? where's all that heat going to come from?
> Phase change cooling systems are not all alike. AC systems are designed to move a lot of heat at not a lot of temperature differential. Freezers are designed to get to a lower temperature, but with much less capacity to move heat (fewer BTU/hr). There's just no way a standard freezer can move 4-500BTU/hr while holding 0F, whereas a small window unit can move 6000BTU/hr. If you check, you'll even find that they use different (optimized) refrigerants as well.


I said this later on...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> I did this before i moved home for the summer and never took photos. Refrigerators/Freezers are designed to get the inside down to a certain temperature and maintain that temperature by periodically turning on and cooling more. Albeit I got my Idle temp down to about 9c, as soon as I put any decent load on the system it would melt all the ice in the freezer in about 15 minutes and have no noticeable decreases in temp. In fact this caused my temps to go higher than usual because there was no where for the hot air to go once it overpowered the freezer.


I've done a fair amount of phase-change cooling research, but putting a radiator n front of a AC unit is not the same. Liquid cooling is all about getting heat out of the case. The radiator is deigned to be the component to get rid of that heat. Any computer with a large loop and lots of devices adding heat into the loop even at idle are going to be producing at least 100W of heat, and the coolant going back to the computer from the radiator would never realistically get cold enough to cause condensation. unless of course you have one hell of an air conditioner.

Also, its a N560GTX Twin frozor II


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> The MSI Gtx560 has a funky pattern that I dont know will work with standard universal gpu blocks:


Don't see why not. As long as the square mount brackets fit there shouldn't be a problem. So what if you don't have 2 screws/bolts holding the block? Shouldn't matter as long as the bracket is fixed securely to the pcb. Sure looks like a standard square spread to me. Do you have a straight on shot of that GPU?









~Ceadder


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

I just dont see how a square shape would work. I'm paranoid about mounting so im thinkin i might just machine one of the full card blocks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> I just dont see how a square shape would work. I'm paranoid about mounting so im thinkin i might just machine one of the full card blocks


edit: let me research this one for yah









double edit: yeah, I really would need the name and model if you could. Card makers can change the Nvidia reference designs quite a bit and it could lead to fitting issues. Thanks


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> edit: let me research this one for yah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> double edit: yeah, I really would need the name and model if you could. Card makers can change the Nvidia reference designs quite a bit and it could lead to fitting issues. Thanks


box says "MSI N560GTX Twin Frozor II"

Edit: I know for a fact this card is not a reference design. the caps for the voltage reg circuitry is misaligned and there are fewer caps


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> box says "MSI N560GTX Twin Frozor II"


kewl....be right back


----------



## wermad

Alright, the good news is that the EK Supreme VGA block fits, and so, this usually translates to other uni blocks fitting. You're good to go


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Alright, the good news is that the EK Supreme VGA block fits, and so, this usually translates to other uni blocks fitting. You're good to go


Well, I think i would rather buy a gtx680 and make sure it is a reference deign. that would solve a lot of problems


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Well, I think i would rather buy a gtx680 and make sure it is a reference deign. that would solve a lot of problems


I like Plan B a lot more


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did you get side ports? I only have one port on each end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, there's been a lot of talk of LG2011 blocks. I'm using the cpu-360 and @ 4.665 my temps are under 60°c.


No, I didn't get side ports. My reservoir came with two ports on one end and one port on the other, which from what I've seen is typical. Oddly enough, mine also came with an inverter even though the FrozenQ website states they don't include one with the reservoir. I use the two port end on top so I can use one as a fillport, it works very well. The only issue I've had is that if the reservoir isn't full, there's a constant rushing water sound coming from the res, I've gotten around that though so it's all good.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> box says "MSI N560GTX Twin Frozor II"
> Edit: I know for a fact this card is not a reference design. the caps for the voltage reg circuitry is misaligned and there are fewer caps


Check this out. You can use EK Universal blocks but you'll have to use the HF GF460 backplate.

If you decide to go with a non-EK block... research carefully. Ordering the wrong blocks sucks.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just for referance Condensation will form when ever the air (any temp) hits a surface that is colder then the water vapour in that air.

Hence why in the tropics you can get condensation on a 30+ Celsius day, when it hits a surface of <20 Celsius.

It is all relevant to the amount of humidity in the air (and the dew point).

In warmer climates (deserts etc.) humidity is generally lower, meaning condensation will not form until a lower temp is reached.

Also the oil inside nearly all Air conditioning units turns very acidic when mixed with water.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hey i was wondering if there is an area on here that has only the pictures of
peoples rigs and loops without all the text.
If there isn't i might go page to page starting from page 1 and copy
all the pics into one giant water cooling picutre collection.
If i do would anyone be interested in me sending it to them in a
zip file after?
let me know..might take a few days but i'm an insomniac so
maybe sooner lol.


----------



## yuhaowu

^I would be interested!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey i was wondering if there is an area on here that has only the pictures of
> peoples rigs and loops without all the text.
> If there isn't i might go page to page starting from page 1 and copy
> all the pics into one giant water cooling picutre collection.
> If i do would anyone be interested in me sending it to them in a
> zip file after?
> let me know..might take a few days but i'm an insomniac so
> maybe sooner lol.


Go to the first page of this thread,there is a spreadsheet with all the rig pics


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> I did this before i moved home for the summer and never took photos. Refrigerators/Freezers are designed to get the inside down to a certain temperature and maintain that temperature by periodically turning on and cooling more. Albeit I got my Idle temp down to about 9c, as soon as I put any decent load on the system it would melt all the ice in the freezer in about 15 minutes and have no noticeable decreases in temp. In fact this caused my temps to go higher than usual because there was no where for the hot air to go once it overpowered the freezer.
> I added fans. i just wanted to see how effective a new rad might be but so far nothing to write home about.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This thing is epic, you should show it off here


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Hey guys tell me what you think of my new loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Honestly Cosmos II is very beautiful case and PLENTLY room for WC loop. I saw it in person @ FRYS store. just saying..
> Neat setup!
> 
> 
> 
> I am not saying that its not a nice case... I was making a reference point on size (Crocodile Dundee)
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...


----------



## bomberjun

done with it.







)


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> done with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


looks good! Where did you end up routing the tubes for the 360 rad at the bottom? Does it come out of the top rad go round the back of the backplate and in through the bottom? Also your rez is a little low







hehe


----------



## bomberjun

Thank zander.









My loop goes like this.

Res > Pump > bottom 360 > top 360 > cpu > ram > mobo > gpu > res.

I routed a very long tube at the back to connect the bottom rad and the top using p clips. About the reservoir, yes I intended that because below that is my pump. I cut through the fan grills of 800D to connect the tube going to the pump.

Right now, I am gettting good results with my temps.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> This thing is epic, you should show it off here


Done.

Also I lapped my cpu and H60 water block today and knocked off about 7c. I'm surprised how well that works.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Done.
> Also I lapped my cpu and H60 water block today and knocked off about 7c. I'm surprised how well that works.


Wow, you knocked off that much just by lapping? I might need to do that with my Rasa Block and FX8120. What's your 2600k's overclocked too?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

EK 7970 Lightning blocks still MIA. Is there an EK rep here on OCN?


----------



## simonfredette

Dont know but the new EK blocks are a little behind on the new cards and maybe it has something to do with the new style blocks coming out .. Theres a thread about the new blocks , mostly because people dont like them ..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Wow, you knocked off that much just by lapping? I might need to do that with my Rasa Block and FX8120. What's your 2600k's overclocked too?


I think it may be more like a 4 - 5c drop. And i'm running at 5.016Ghz


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah I saw that. I really hope the lightning blocks come without the crop circles....


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> EK 7970 Lightning blocks still MIA. Is there an EK rep here on OCN?


They seem to be avoiding all water cooliong forums. Maybe they think the CSQ fiasco will blow over if they ignore us.


----------



## axipher

Can anyone help me with some tubing choices for my LAN rig, link below.

Basically I have the following options (poll in build log):

- Red tubing

- White tubing

- Clear tubing with either red or white Mayhem's dies

I'm looking for not only colour choice, but also tubing to use. If I go with red or white, I'm not worried about plasticizer build-up as much since I do a loop cleaning every couple months. If I go clear though, getting some top-notch tubing is a must.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000/0_50


----------



## Hamy144

I would say go for red tubing. It would look great in your rig and would save a lot of headaches with plasticiser and dyes
I would just use distilled and kill coil


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They seem to be avoiding all water cooliong forums. Maybe they think the CSQ fiasco will blow over if they ignore us.


Then I shall ignore EK completely and their products, they are crazy to think this will blow over after some time and they will see it through greatly decreased sales! I won't support any company that ignores it's customers completely!


----------



## mandrix

Recommendations on wire sleeving kits? I will need everything, sleeving, heat shrink, tools. Going to practice on my current build to get ready for my upcoming build. If my hands hold out that is.
Would like feedback from those that have actually done wire sleeving. Thinking of going with the Carbon Fiber look.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Recommendations on wire sleeving kits? I will need everything, sleeving, heat shrink, tools. Going to practice on my current build to get ready for my upcoming build. If my hands hold out that is.


mdpc has a great variety of sleeving with the best quality available and heatshrink with 4:1 ratio!They sell kits too,but one kit won't be enough for the entire psu


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Recommendations on wire sleeving kits? I will need everything, sleeving, heat shrink, tools. Going to practice on my current build to get ready for my upcoming build. If my hands hold out that is.
> Would like feedback from those that have actually done wire sleeving. Thinking of going with the Carbon Fiber look.


try FTWPC.com. I've never tried mdpc but I hear its expensive. I've purchased from ftwpc.com a couple times and its been a pleasant experience. They do have pretty much everything to get started. I like their paracord as its price very well and there are several colors.

http://ftwpc.com/


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> mdpc has a great variety of sleeving with the best quality available and heatshrink with 4:1 ratio!They sell kits too,but one kit won't be enough for the entire psu


Great. I can't seem to find a link for anyone that sells the kits?


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Great. I can't seem to find a link for anyone that sells the kits?


If you wan't to sleeve every cable from your powersupply induvidually a kit won't be enough, it's better to buy small sleeve in 10 meter increments. You should need 40+ meters of sleeve depending on your powersupply.

http://en.mdpc-x.com/


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> try FTWPC.com. I've never tried mdpc but I hear its expensive. I've purchased from ftwpc.com a couple times and its been a pleasant experience. They do have pretty much everything to get started. I like their paracord as its price very well and there are several colors.
> http://ftwpc.com/


Aarrgh. I missed your post. Thanks!!


----------



## prznar1

ops wrong thread. sry.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> bloody hell thats a tight fit ( i wouldnt manage it with my current PSU which is so long!) also arnt you cutting out the two tubing holes having it stood on its side? Can you turn it so its lying flat? then you could still use the holes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> done with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Looks great! I still did it first







Good to know that there are possibilities for longer PSUs beyond extending them out the back. Very nice clean build, congrats


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: 800D



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> done with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )





Looks good. MoAr Pics Please.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Just got my TJ-11 from UPS!!!







This thing is HUGE!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Just got my TJ-11 from UPS!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thing is HUGE!!!


Pics, or it didn't happen!!!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Just got my TJ-11 from UPS!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thing is HUGE!!!


The question remains.. what did your GF say about it?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Ask and ye shall receive Wermad!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Ask and ye shall receive Wermad!


Cool, now pack it up and I'll pm you my address to ship this puppy









so


----------



## rotary7

It kinda looks like mine(sorry about the phone pic)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm going to be doing a video review of this case on my YouTube channel (MegaTechPC) very soon as well as an unboxing of my EK Nickel-Plexi Asus RIVE blocks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> It kinda looks like mine(sorry about the phone pic)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a pretty build dude!


----------



## RidicUlust

Love the TJ11 but word of advice, don't use crystal link for the GPU for it doesn't support enough pressure on them due to the 90 degree mobo layout. Other than that, great case.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm using the EK FC Bridge for the 7970's actually...


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> It kinda looks like mine(sorry about the phone pic)


Don't be sorry...


----------



## thx1138

Someone buy my rad, it's a brand new RX480 that's just sitting around taking up space. http://www.overclock.net/t/1261520/fs-brand-new-rx480-100-shipped/0_100


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Ask and ye shall receive Wermad!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool, now pack it up and I'll pm you my address to ship this puppy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so
Click to expand...

Don't be fooled. That note on the paper is obv. photo shopped









Side note: I would love to own a case like that... but I had a hard time justifying the HAF 932 Advanced at $160 when it came out, lol. I guess I'm just cheap


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Ask and ye shall receive Wermad!
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2472756/width/525/height/700/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool, now pack it up and I'll pm you my address to ship this puppy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't be fooled. That note on the paper is obv. photo shopped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side note: I would love to own a case like that... but I had a hard time justifying the HAF 932 Advanced at $160 when it came out, lol. I guess I'm just cheap
Click to expand...

Lol, I know what you mean. I got the regular 932 and was kinda miffed when I first got it cause I paid more for it than my bro paid for his all Blue LED model 932. I still have it and love the helloutofit. Best case I ever bought imho.









Now that this is out of the way can we get back on topic now?









Anyone know where to get EK Copper Universal Bridge blocks or are those going through the ugly transformation too?









~Ceadder


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No one likes a grammar nazi...especially when they are wrong.
> http://www.dailywritingtips.com/do-you-orient-yourself-or-orientate-yourself/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> In the UK, it is more common for people to say "orientate" whereas in the US, "orient" is more common. Writers in both countries sometimes bemoan the usage of the alternative word. In fact, both words are acceptable according to the dictionaries.
Click to expand...

Says the guy who drives on the wrong side of the road...


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Says the guy who drives on the wrong side of the road...


To him, you drive on the wrong side of the road.

And to me actually


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Says the guy who drives on the wrong side of the road...


Maybe its US that drive on the wrong side of the road....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lol, I know what you mean. I got the regular 932 and was kinda miffed when I first got it cause I paid more for it than my bro paid for his all Blue LED model 932. I still have it and love the helloutofit. Best case I ever bought imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this is out of the way can we get back on topic now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to get EK Copper Universal Bridge blocks *or are those going through the ugly transformation too? :*mellowsmi
> ~Ceadder


Most likely









edit: found some, sent you a pm if those are the ones you needs


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Started to build a new reservoir/evaporation cooler:










Basically thing on the right fits into the case on the left. There's a LOT more work to be done though. It's going to "rain" in the long vertical section.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread UPDATED.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got Mayhems Thermodynamic on test...


----------



## superericla

Any big differences in color for different parts of the loop?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Any big differences in color for different parts of the loop?


Thats as much as i can give you for now,when Mayhem lifts NDA i can say more. Wont be long now.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats as much as i can give you for now,when Mayhem lifts NDA i can say more. Wont be long now.


Oh, okay. Thanks for showing some pictures, I can't wait to see how it performs.









Edit: Also, what kind of tubing is that?


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaltwaterCooled*
> 
> Looks great! I still did it first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know that there are possibilities for longer PSUs beyond extending them out the back. Very nice clean build, congrats


Thank you.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Oh, okay. Thanks for showing some pictures, I can't wait to see how it performs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also, what kind of tubing is that?


Cheap and cheerful Clearflex.
Everything i get to test gets new tubing so it wont be on long.


----------



## derickwm

that dye is beautiful. May have to use it in my build


----------



## quakermaas

New pump, going to mod them to the 18w version.



EK mosfet block fitted to motherboard with 2 x 360 Feser X-changers out the back ( I have ordered black tubing and black sleeving , that will be next)



The V6 radiator


----------



## zander89

i dread to think how badly that mayhem dye is going to stain


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> i dread to think how badly that mayhem dye is going to stain


well dye is made to stain, be a pretty useless dye if it didn't, it just requires a bit more maintenance on your loop, some people like it some don't.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cheap and cheerful Clearflex.
> Everything i get to test gets new tubing so it wont be on long.


Is Clearflex 60 not good?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> i dread to think how badly that mayhem dye is going to stain


According to Mayhem its not dye, at least there old stuff anyways...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @DarkHayZe we use a Optical brightener in uv clear blue that is not officially classed as a dye (sorry we wont give the full details of winch version as this as its up to others to find out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). There are several version of Optical brightener some are used in detergents to make your T-Shirt and Shirts whiter (ever noticed how they glow under UV light) and some are used to make paper whiter and various other things as well. Some Optical brighteners are classed as dyes others are not.
> Mick


----------



## Krahe

I think he is only referring to the UV clear and not the colored ones, could be wrong though.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm planning on using Mayhems pastel red for my loop. What kind of special maintenance must be performed?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I think he is only referring to the UV clear and not the colored ones, could be wrong though.


I got the impression that he was talking about all his stuff... of course I could be wrong... either way I wont put it in my system DW+Silver all the way for me


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> well dye is made to stain, be a pretty useless dye if it didn't, it just requires a bit more maintenance on your loop, some people like it some don't.


Indeed and it causes far more problems than its worth in my opinion. It does create a nice look. But at the cost of staining you blocks? ( tubing not so much of an issue.) I love the look of it, but with the potential to ruin some pretty expensive equipment. Hmmm. I think the only dye i would chance is the mayhem clear UV dye.

I've also heard that in terms of cooling performance they dyed water tends to be worse than strait distilled/deionised + biocide?


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm planning on using Mayhems pastel red for my loop. What kind of special maintenance must be performed?


the pastel like dyes i would suggest cleaning you loop every month or two ( just my opinion) just to avoid/ put off seriously staining in your blocks.


----------



## chino1974

Guys would anyone know where I can find the best deals on universal water blocks for my 6870's? I want to add them to my loop. I originally wanted to add full water blocks but the second card I ended up getting is a Non-Reference 6870 which is alot shorter than the Reference card so I don't know how it'll look or work adding two different water blocks to the rig. I figured the best match would be 2 universals. If I end up not being able to get both of them at once for whatever reason I can get one add it to my loop and use the bracket I bought from Dwood and use an H50 I have laying around doing nothing right now until I can get the second block. But I would really prefer to add them both at the same time. Any help with where I can find a good deal for the blocks will be greatly apreciated.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

How does it stain the blocks? You mean the nickel inside? And why would that matter if you can't see it when coolant is running through the loop?


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> Indeed and it causes far more problems than its worth in my opinion. It does create a nice look. But at the cost of staining you blocks? ( tubing not so much of an issue.) I love the look of it, but with the potential to ruin some pretty expensive equipment. Hmmm. I think the only dye i would chance is the mayhem clear UV dye.
> I've also heard that in terms of cooling performance they dyed water tends to be worse than strait distilled/deionised + biocide?


It's almost always plasticizer from tubing that clogs blocks, to then get colored by the dye. It's not the dye itself that clogs the blocks, atleast not a good dye like the mayhem ones.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

So what tubing does Mayhems recommend?


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> It's almost always plasticizer from tubing that clogs blocks, to then get colored by the dye. It's not the dye itself that clogs the blocks, atleast not a good dye like the mayhem ones.


plasticiser very rarely clogs up a loop. Its rare for it to get to that point/actually come off the inside of the pipes. The more additives you add to the water the larger the chance of build up / clogging, dye is not good for your loop fullstop. No1 is questioning it looks bad ass but to be honest they should be avoided unless you want to clean out your loop every 1-2 months


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So what tubing does Mayhems recommend?


An earlier post from Mayhem:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262592/mayhems-pastel-white-and-red-dye#post_17346413


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> An earlier post from Mayhem:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262592/mayhems-pastel-white-and-red-dye#post_17346413


Thats what I was thinking, clearflex that is


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> plasticiser very rarely clogs up a loop. Its rare for it to get to that point/actually come off the inside of the pipes. The more additives you add to the water the larger the chance of build up / clogging, dye is not good for your loop fullstop. No1 is questioning it looks bad ass but to be honest they should be avoided unless you want to clean out your loop every 1-2 months


Then why did you post this?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/720#post_17435321

I would say plasticiser is to blame for more clogged loops than anything else, older variants of dyes did cause problems, mayhem has said this himself, but the newer products have supposedly eliminated it.


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Then why did you post this?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/720#post_17435321
> I would say plasticiser is to blame for more clogged loops than anything else, older variants of dyes did cause problems, mayhem has said this himself, but the newer products have supposedly eliminated it.


not once did i mention about plasticiser blocking loops in that thread. If you actually read what i had been posting you would know the problem that i am preferring to is that fact that it clouds the pipes. Its very rare that is actually lifts off the pipes and clogs the loop.

Read up more about it and there are very few cases of plasticiser clogging loops. On the other hand its well known that alot of dyes eventually seperate from the water causing build up and deposits of gunk around your loop when you run it for sustained periods or time.

Premade coolants are the worst by far. You will have alot less trouble with using a dye yourself and moderating the amount/ whats put in the water, but in the end it still isnt ideal. Ultimately the less you put in the less problems you will have, doing it yourself and maintaining your loop regularly will avoid/moderate the majority of the issues but you still have to be careful

And yes it is better than it used to be but the problems still remain


----------



## Krahe

My mistake, I will be pulling my loop fully apart in a few weeks, has had mayhems deep blue in it for around 3 months before being drained and replaced with distilled, will post what I find when I pull the blocks apart and will disect the tubing and give it a good once over.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Well, clear is definitely not an option for me. I'm going for full aesthetics so I simply have to use a red dye in my loop (especially with all acrylic blocks). I've got a great spot in the loop for my Koolance quick-disconnects so flushing every few months or so shouldn't pose a big hassle...


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Well, clear is definitely not an option for me. I'm going for full aesthetics so I simply have to use a red dye in my loop (especially with all acrylic blocks). I've got a great spot in the loop for my Koolance quick-disconnects so flushing every few months or so shouldn't pose a big hassle...


Why not just use UV tubing?


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> My mistake, I will be pulling my loop fully apart in a few weeks, has had mayhems deep blue in it for around 3 months before being drained and replaced with distilled, will post what I find when I pull the blocks apart and will disect the tubing and give it a good once over.


I doubt you will see much of a build up, it will most likely just be stained. As i stated a few times before mayhems are decent and are better than most. Its the pastel/premade coolants which ive seen cause the most issues in terms of gunk building up ( primochill dyes are terrible for staining/ buildup ) . With some of the thinner dyes you might just get away with some light staining on your parts ( i have some mayhem clear UV blue stuff sitting at home). Breaking down your loop every few months is what is recommended to avoid any substantial staining/ build up. You wont see much negative effects after 3 months. But it order to stop it from staining in the long term i would say cleaning every 2-3 months in a minimum preferabbly every month or two to be safe. From what ive seen in a lot of threads and the horror stories of equipment being trashed as a result of dye has been enough to make me never buy premade stuff, and to only use mayhems if i ever did do it.


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Why not just use UV tubing?


Im guessing he wants UV coolant running through his acrylic blocks? Am i right? Dont get me wrong as long as you use a decent dye and regularly maintain it you will be fine. Just dont get sucked into the marketing trash that a lot of companies throw at you. Mayhems is the only company that is honest about the effects of dyes. Just try not to use pastel/ very very bright dyes. You could always hook up small red leds to you blocks to give clear water a similar effect and just use red uv tubing. Wouldn't be exactly the same but might help. Also almost every clear tubing is suffering from clouding these days. So going with clear tubing and dye will mean it wont stay looking nice for long. You will have to break it down and clean off the plasticiser pretty quickly.


----------



## axipher

Major update to my Design Core 1000 Build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000-custom-wc-underway/350_50#post_17435831



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## derickwm

Pump connected right to CPU block? Love it!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm planning on using Mayhems pastel red for my loop. What kind of special maintenance must be performed?


You'll have to hand clean anything nickel in the loop afterwards. It gets stained a lot. More than likely you will need a polishing compound to clean it perfectly.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> plasticiser very rarely clogs up a loop. Its rare for it to get to that point/actually come off the inside of the pipes. The more additives you add to the water the larger the chance of build up / clogging, dye is not good for your loop fullstop. No1 is questioning it looks bad ass but to be honest they should be avoided unless you want to clean out your loop every 1-2 months


Can't agree here. I run stronger dyes than anyone and I get zero clogging. Dye is not the problem. Plasticizer is.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Pump connected right to CPU block? Love it!


Yep, it was one of the only ways to make it fit. I though about that when I decided that I didn't want to pay for the Apogee Drive II. I got to thinking that if some big company can make a pump/block combo, surely I can too. I'll be using some 11mm straight rotary adpaters to connect pump to block, pump to res, and res to 3-way splitter. I'll only actually have 2 tube runs going to the radiator.

I was feeling quite good last night after using a Dremel on metal for the first time, and finding a really awesome loop order that fit almost perfectly.

The only problem is that reservoir. It provides no bubble removal so the air bubbles get sucked right back in to the loop. Going to have to really play with it to get all the bubbles out. I might have to pre-fill all the components then really rotate the case in every direction.

For now I plugged the pump in to my Scythe fan controller and running at about 80% for short bursts with a 24-pin jumper trying to de-aerate.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Can't agree here. I run stronger dyes than anyone and I get zero clogging. Dye is not the problem. Plasticizer is.


This^^


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys would anyone know where I can find the best deals on universal water blocks for my 6870's? I want to add them to my loop. I originally wanted to add full water blocks but the second card I ended up getting is a Non-Reference 6870 which is alot shorter than the Reference card so I don't know how it'll look or work adding two different water blocks to the rig. I figured the best match would be 2 universals. If I end up not being able to get both of them at once for whatever reason I can get one add it to my loop and use the bracket I bought from Dwood and use an H50 I have laying around doing nothing right now until I can get the second block. But I would really prefer to add them both at the same time. Any help with where I can find a good deal for the blocks will be greatly apreciated.


I'd go with two of these blocks with either a serial or parallel bridge.

Go to EK's Cooling Configurator to look for more options.


----------



## jcho285

I asked couple of days ago what case was the best for WC for a friends build.
NZXT 810 was recommended. I looked into the case and I had to get one myself








Case was much easier to work with compared to HAF X and the gunmetal color is just awesome.





More pics: http://imgur.com/a/HXLWF


----------



## Onions

i think that was me who recommend that one to yea..







im glad you liek ti i want one but jsut dont have time or energy for it


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

For everyone asking about dyes and clogging/staining, I'll let you know in a year or 2 as that is how long I'm planning to run my loops without flushing.
For tubing I recommend XSPC, the black I used in my last build was in there a little over 2 years with no plasticizer leech at all, the clear has been in nearly 3week with no signs of leeching.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Well that puts my mind at ease. Thanks!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> I asked couple of days ago what case was the best for WC for a friends build.
> NZXT 810 was recommended. I looked into the case and I had to get one myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case was much easier to work with compared to HAF X and the gunmetal color is just awesome.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics: http://imgur.com/a/HXLWF


Better hope your wife don't find out. Hahaha.
I'm thinking real seriously about a Switch for my next build. Probably white though.
Nice rig.


----------



## bomberjun

*Blackbox*


----------



## wermad

^^^800D goodness


----------



## seraphicsoul

Just finished my build! Here are some photos for review:





So... Can I join?

Specs:

Intel i7 3930K @ 3.20Ghz (Current OC @ 4.2Ghz)
XSPC Raystorm Intel CPU Block

Asus Rampage IV Extreme Motherboard
Koolance Northbridge/Southbridge cooling block combo

Intel 520 series 256GB 2.5in SSD
EVGA nVidia GTX570 732Mhz 2560MB GDDR5 RAM (2 cards in SLI)
16GB DDR3 RAM Ripjaws G.Skill 11-11-11-30 (4x4GB)
OCZ ZX series 850W 70A modular PSU
XSPC Raystorm RX360 Extreme Kit with Swiftech MCP655 Pump
Put together in a Caselabs Magnum STH10 case.

Build pics are also available.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seraphicsoul*
> 
> Just finished my build! Here are some photos for review:
> 
> So... Can I join?
> Specs:
> 
> Intel i7 3930K @ 3.20Ghz (Current OC @ 4.2Ghz)
> XSPC Raystorm Intel CPU Block
> 
> Asus Rampage IV Extreme Motherboard
> Koolance Northbridge/Southbridge cooling block combo
> 
> Intel 520 series 256GB 2.5in SSD
> EVGA nVidia GTX570 732Mhz 2560MB GDDR5 RAM (2 cards in SLI)
> 16GB DDR3 RAM Ripjaws G.Skill 11-11-11-30 (4x4GB)
> OCZ ZX series 850W 70A modular PSU
> XSPC Raystorm RX360 Extreme Kit with Swiftech MCP655 Pump
> Put together in a Caselabs Magnum STH10 case.
> Build pics are also available.


Looks great. No offense however, but that is a waste of a case running only a single 360


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Looks great. No offense however, but that is a waste of a case running only a single 360


Maybe he sleeps in the bottom half?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Maybe he sleeps in the bottom half?


lol


----------



## audioholic

Guys have another question. I am doing this Vulcan build. I have an Eheim pump and a swiftech square reservoir, or the reservoir that came with the pump. I am trying to find the best placement for these two things in such a small space. I am thinking on putting the reservoir above the radiator just want some more thoughts. I will be getting a custom smoked plexiglass window to cover up the wires and hopefully the pump.
Constructive criticism is definitely welcome..or even bad








Thanks again!

Sorry for the crappy cell phone picture it is all I have on me at the moment.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*


Love the ssd on the rear fan mount idea


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> *Blackbox*


800D.....810......800D.....810. I can't make up my mind. I need to decide on a case so I can get it ordered. I'm starting to lean toward Corsair, though. Just wish the price was a little lower......


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> 800D.....810......800D.....810. I can't make up my mind. I need to decide on a case so I can get it ordered. I'm starting to lean toward Corsair, though. Just wish the price was a little lower......


Ascension


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> 800D.....810......800D.....810. I can't make up my mind. I need to decide on a case so I can get it ordered. I'm starting to lean toward Corsair, though. Just wish the price was a little lower......


I have owned the 800D and I have seen the 810. If yo are planning a ton of water hardware and don't mind some modding, I would for the Obsidian. If you don't plan to water a bunch of stuff, the 810 is a better fit and its cheaper. The money could go towards something else. Both great cases and different enough to make your decisions even harder.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Ascension


Am I the only one here that finds those "cube" cases hideous???


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: darkness!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> *Blackbox*





Great work, needs a little more lights.









just a little...


----------



## audioholic

How is this for reservoir placement?

Please excuse the photo, had to do some high saturation to calm the flash down.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The TJ-11 was a bust guys.







Appears to have been damaged in shipping. One of the front slot covers was badly dented, the top panel was bowed in with the mesh pushing through the screws and dislodging three of them, and the side panels would not go back on without a fight. I will be sending this POS back to Amazon in the morning and hope that the replacement they send me is in much better shape...


----------



## derickwm

That is very sad to hear







hopefully Amazon sorts you out.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Tell me about it. I really like the case itself (minus the thumb screw side panels on a $600 case) but I couldn't let such obvious defects remain after having spent so much money. Still can't think of a better case for my new build...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The TJ-11 was a bust guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appears to have been damaged in shipping. One of the front slot covers was badly dented, the top panel was bowed in with the mesh pushing through the screws and dislodging three of them, and the side panels would not go back on without a fight. I will be sending this POS back to Amazon in the morning and hope that the replacement they send me is in much better shape...


I was curious as the pic you posted showed the top mesh panel (or what ever it is) is sloped up. Was that damaged too? Sad to hear that mate. I'm sure amazon customer service will take care of you


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Ascension
> 
> 
> 
> Am I the only one here that finds those "cube" cases hideous???
Click to expand...

Nope, you're not. I don't find them appealing at all. For sheer space and versatility, sure do. But for appearance, not a pretty box at all.

That being said, I love that TJ11 you grabbed (hopefully next one is in good condition). I also like the 800D, and the Switch 810.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Tell me about it. I really like the case itself (minus the thumb screw side panels on a $600 case) but I couldn't let such obvious defects remain after having spent so much money. Still can't think of a better case for my new build...


No bueno.. you pay even 300+ for an item you expect excellent quality (including shippping)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I was curious as the pic you posted *showed the top mesh panel (or what ever it is) is sloped up*. Was that damaged too? Sad to hear that mate. I'm sure amazon customer service will take care of you


That's exactly what was damaged. Along with the other things...


----------



## CircuitFreak

I run only distilled/kill coil in my loop and twice I've had to take me loop apart because plasticizer is clogging up the jet plate in my CPU block and raising temps in my loop. Next time it happens ill snap a pic. I personally would believe its the plasticizer that has been dyed rather then the dye it self.


----------



## wermad

Son of a Bisquik! Res is leaking again at the fill port. I've already tried two different plugs and they seem to still be leaking. This is not the same quality as my first FrozenQ res. I'm really thinking of just selling this


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

You can't RMA?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> You can't RMA?


I'm about to but I had to wait almost a month to get this res so I don't want to left without a res again. I'm going to email Alex later tonight. When I got the res, it really didn't look the same in terms of fit and finish as my first res I ordered over a year ago. I also noticed that they didn't do the side ports on the top as I requested and the side ports that were done looked a bit odd. These side ports are leaking over and over enough that there's some oxidation on a screw that sits directly below this side port. I just want to avoid waiting another month to receive another one.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> You can't RMA?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about to but I had to wait almost a month to get this res so I don't want to left without a res again. I'm going to email Alex later tonight. When I got the res, it really didn't look the same in terms of fit and finish as my first res I ordered over a year ago. I also noticed that they didn't do the side ports on the top as I requested and the side ports that were done looked a bit odd. These side ports are leaking over and over enough that there's some oxidation on a screw that sits directly below this side port. I just want to avoid waiting another month to receive another one.
Click to expand...

I would RMA or request a refund. They look great, but I'd rather have something I know won't leak instead.


----------



## Krahe

@ Wermad, I know its a pain to RMA mate but for the money they charge you expect a working product, especially in an item that holds water in an electrical appliance







If I had a spare res I'd send it to you so you have something till its sorted, maybe someone can help. Best of luck, let us know what answer you receive from FrozenQ.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm about to but I had to wait almost a month to get this res so I don't want to left without a res again. I'm going to email Alex later tonight. When I got the res, it really didn't look the same in terms of fit and finish as my first res I ordered over a year ago. I also noticed that they didn't do the side ports on the top as I requested and the side ports that were done looked a bit odd. These side ports are leaking over and over enough that there's some oxidation on a screw that sits directly below this side port. I just want to avoid waiting another month to receive another one.


I was thinking about a helix res... just as an extra for looks, but after everything you two have gone through with them I am seriously doubting ordering anything from them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I would RMA or request a refund. They look great, but I'd rather have something I know won't leak instead.


I love the looks but I didn't expect issues. My first res was perfect and I ended up selling it to make some cash. So I came in expecting the same quality but its fallen short this time around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> @ Wermad, I know its a pain to RMA mate but for the money they charge you expect a working product, especially in an item that holds water in an electrical appliance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I had a spare res I'd send it to you so you have something till its sorted, maybe someone can help. Best of luck, let us know what answer you receive from FrozenQ.


Very true, so I'm hoping they can send me a replacement and then I'll send them this one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I was thinking about a helix res... just as an extra for looks, but after everything you two have gone through with them I am seriously doubting ordering anything from them.


Its perplexing and when you consider the delay and the final rush to get these out, its probable quality and quality assurance went down


----------



## DaClownie

wermad: I own two FrozenQ double helix first gen reservoirs. I only ended up using one. However, while they looked great, looking back at them now all I can see is the lack of QC. I know Alex was running a smaller operation then, but it was evident even then. When I first ordered, it was missing it's mounting brackets. Then I could never get the thing completely air tight so it needed to be mounted vertically. The G1/4" threaded ports were not tapped straight, resulting in a bad seal on the top with a tube or a plug. The second one had some of the same issues. The red was completely pink (not sure why it'd even be called red) and it was supposed to be UV but never glowed with UV on... it was basically pink helix with a purple bar in the middle.

I've learned my lesson.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey werm are you wrapping your fitting threads with PTFE? Should only require a little bit(x1 wrap) to get you by til they get your issues sorted.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm about to but I had to wait almost a month to get this res so I don't want to left without a res again. I'm going to email Alex later tonight. When I got the res, it really didn't look the same in terms of fit and finish as my first res I ordered over a year ago. I also noticed that they didn't do the side ports on the top as I requested and the side ports that were done looked a bit odd. These side ports are leaking over and over enough that there's some oxidation on a screw that sits directly below this side port. I just want to avoid waiting another month to receive another one.


As long as it may have taken to get and as much as you don't want to be without a reservoir again, I would definitely RMA it if the side ports are leaking. I'm sure Alex would understand. I haven't had any issues with mine so far, but hearing about your leaking issues worries me a bit. I had a reservoir before that had an issue leaking with fittings in one port, so I tried using two o-rings to fix the issue and surprisingly enough it worked. That might be worth a try.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey werm are you wrapping your fitting threads with PTFE? Should only require a little bit(x1 wrap) to get you by til they get your issues sorted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


A few things.

1. That. Avatar. Is Epic.

2. PTFE is a good suggestion, but the acrylic you're putting the threading into is not very thick, so I'd be careful of getting some of that tape into your loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> wermad: I own two FrozenQ double helix first gen reservoirs. I only ended up using one. However, while they looked great, looking back at them now all I can see is the lack of QC. I know Alex was running a smaller operation then, but it was evident even then. When I first ordered, it was missing it's mounting brackets. Then I could never get the thing completely air tight so it needed to be mounted vertically. The G1/4" threaded ports were not tapped straight, resulting in a bad seal on the top with a tube or a plug. The second one had some of the same issues. The red was completely pink (not sure why it'd even be called red) and it was supposed to be UV but never glowed with UV on... it was basically pink helix with a purple bar in the middle.
> I've learned my lesson.


I did hear stories about their reservoirs going bad a few years ago and it was sort of expected for a mostly custom reservoir. But my first res arrived quickly and was never an issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey werm are you wrapping your fitting threads with PTFE? Should only require a little bit(x1 wrap) to get you by til they get your issues sorted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No...I don't use teflon tape. I used it once and foolishly with plastic barbs







I noticed the port was a bit odd and I did mentioned that when I posted here once it finally came in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> As long as it may have taken to get and as much as you don't want to be without a reservoir again, I would definitely RMA it if the side ports are leaking. I'm sure Alex would understand. I haven't had any issues with mine so far, but hearing about your leaking issues worries me a bit. I had a reservoir before that had an issue leaking with fittings in one port, so I tried using two o-rings to fix the issue and surprisingly enough it worked. That might be worth a try.


Thanks, I'm hoping they will ship first so I'm not stuck without a res (again).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> A few things.
> 1. That. Avatar. Is Epic.
> 2. PTFE is a good suggestion, but the acrylic you're putting the threading into is not very thick, so I'd be careful of getting some of that tape into your loop.


yeah, thats cool







. For about all my serious builds, they've never had tape.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks, I'm hoping they will ship first so I'm not stuck without a res (again).


I would request that, just make sure he knows your situation and request that he send you a new one and when you get that you will return the old one.


----------



## itzhoovEr

Forget to check this thread for two whole days and there were 261 new posts


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> Forget to check this thread for two whole days and there were 261 new posts


That's how we roll...lol


----------



## RidicUlust

I think I got a few Reservoirs laying around. If you want Wermad I can send you one while you RMA that Helix Res.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Sorry to hear about the res wermad









I have a question for you guys.... it's about my future watercooling loop. What kind of tubing should I use?

-solid clear acrylic
-copper tubing (polished)
-chrome or nickel plaited copper tubing

There are pros and cons to each. The clear acrylic would show the coolant (white). The copper would be cool and industrial and the plated copper would just look sick. Let me know what you guys think!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Sorry to hear about the res wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question for you guys.... it's about my future watercooling loop. What kind of tubing should I use?
> -solid clear acrylic
> -copper tubing (polished)
> -chrome or nickel plaited copper tubing
> There are pros and cons to each. The clear acrylic would show the coolant (white). The copper would be cool and industrial and the plated copper would just look sick. Let me know what you guys think!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Stick with the copper tube as you can have that bent into the form you need to route your plumbing. I would think acrylic can be shaped that way but its more likely prone to crack and eventually leak so I would abandon that idea. Copper tube is a big jump both in time and money. Try a few things first with what's available immediately to enthusiasts. Imo, once you have mastered it, then start exploring outside of the box/norm


----------



## wermad

God....I just discovered more water. It looks like one of the end caps could be leaking. I thought I saw this leaking on my initial leak test but I didn't realize it was an actual leak or from spillage. I got some paper napkins placed below the res so I can find out where this is coming from. Its normal for the water level to go down after a few days but my reservoir's water level has been dipping a bit every day and I've been topping it off. Seams like a leak







. Will keep you posted and I'll hold up on the rma until I'm 100% sure this thing is leaking.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Finally migrated to X79.


could someone tell me what bench that is!? that thing is sl33k


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> could someone tell me what bench that is!? that thing is sl33k


DimasTech Bench/Test Table Easy Dual V2.5 (Graphite Black)


----------



## protzman

cool







thanks man! jw!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> God....I just discovered more water. It looks like one of the end caps could be leaking. I thought I saw this leaking on my initial leak test but I didn't realize it was an actual leak or from spillage. I got some paper napkins placed below the res so I can find out where this is coming from. Its normal for the water level to go down after a few days but my reservoir's water level has been dipping a bit every day and I've been topping it off. Seams like a leak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will keep you posted and I'll hold up on the rma until I'm 100% sure this thing is leaking.


Don't even entertain it,get it out of there before something gets showered...
Not the first time I have heard this res leak or have poor QC..


----------



## wermad

I know for sure the side port is leaking at this point and so I dropped the water level below that port. I'm suspecting one of the end caps is also leaking. I'm leaving a small tray/plate (baby's plate







) to catch any water and to be certain. Ugh, more issues























I just shot Alex a pm and I'll wait for his reply









edit: looks like both ends are leaking. could explain the daily top offs


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Ascension


Doesn't appeal to me and out of my price range.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have owned the 800D and I have seen the 810. If yo are planning a ton of water hardware and don't mind some modding, I would for the Obsidian. If you don't plan to water a bunch of stuff, the 810 is a better fit and its cheaper. The money could go towards something else. Both great cases and different enough to make your decisions even harder.


I will definitely be putting everything under water. Unfortunately I haven't seen either case in person. Is the build quality better on the 800D? I want a case I'll probably keep for 4 or 5 years this time.
What kind of mods are people typically having to do with the 800D? At first I'll probably only have one graphics card but may go ahead and install 2 radiators. Guess I need to read some more build logs and see what size rads people are getting in the 800D.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> 800D.....810......800D.....810. I can't make up my mind. I need to decide on a case so I can get it ordered. I'm starting to lean toward Corsair, though. Just wish the price was a little lower......


Corsairs are real nice cases. But I honestly think the Switch 810 is better. It's more user friendly have good size for whatever you wanna do with it. And also the 800D is allover the place everywhere you look you see 800d being used for high budget watercooled builds. I know one of the reasons for that is the fact that it's a really good case. But I would rather have something alil different from the rest of the herd.







My next build is going to be a Switch 810 which I should be starting very soon. And they just look so SEXY!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Doesn't appeal to me and out of my price range.
> I will definitely be putting everything under water. Unfortunately I haven't seen either case in person. Is the build quality better on the 800D? I want a case I'll probably keep for 4 or 5 years this time.
> What kind of mods are people typically having to do with the 800D? At first I'll probably only have one graphics card but may go ahead and install 2 radiators. Guess I need to read some more build logs and see what size rads people are getting in the 800D.


A lot of 800D owners mod it to hold a 240 in the bottom chamber in front of the PSU, and mod the top to hold a 480. I did both and it was a fairly simple mod if you know your way around some power tools


----------



## bomberjun

You might also want to mount a 360 below.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1260152/radiators-in-800d/40#post_17435495


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> You might also want to mount a 360 below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1260152/radiators-in-800d/40#post_17435495


Or an RX480 on the top and another on the bottom








Quote:


>


http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love the look of those FrozenQ reservoirs but judging from the amount of issues I've seen with them I think I'll stick to a plain Bitspower one...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love the look of those FrozenQ reservoirs but judging from the amount of issues I've seen with them I think I'll stick to a plain Bitspower one...


I haven't had a single issue with my FrozenQ res.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Amazon is shipping my new TJ-11 today and it is supposed to be here Tuesday. They also scheduled a pickup of the damaged one so I don't even have to take it anywhere. Amazon's customer service has always been just top notch for me...


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Or an RX480 on the top and another on the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation
Click to expand...











dual 480s!! geez!!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Doesn't appeal to me and out of my price range.
> I will definitely be putting everything under water. Unfortunately I haven't seen either case in person. Is the build quality better on the 800D? I want a case I'll probably keep for 4 or 5 years this time.
> What kind of mods are people typically having to do with the 800D? At first I'll probably only have one graphics card but may go ahead and install 2 radiators. Guess I need to read some more build logs and see what size rads people are getting in the 800D.


I build one rig in *Corsair Obsidian 800D* and my brother's rig in a *NZXT Switch 810* last month.

The Build quality is very good on each case but the 800D case has better overall quality like the push button open doors and every little features like this. The front panel HDD trays..etc etc.

Both case have good watercooling capacity, I would say identical. But the 800D requires many mods while the NZXT 810 Switch requires no mod at all unless you want somthing really different.

Like another member said, the NZXT Swtch 810 is a much more user friendly case.

But keep in mind

NZXT Switch 810 : *2012*
Corsair Obsidian 800D: *2009*

So you clearly see that the 800D is older and NZXT had chances to copy all kind of case around during these 3 years.

Corsair next case will be the next best case IMO.

In that picture you don't see it but there is a lot of Mods in my 800D and in the next 2 months, I will have much more with many custom plates





This is my brother's PC, still have much rooms for watercooling without mod. Like a Bottom Radiator (2 ways of mounting it and you can also route some tubing outside the Case for another back radiator.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, it's got to be about time for Corsair to release a new full tower. They need a case that can accept a 560 rad IMO...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love the look of those FrozenQ reservoirs but judging from the amount of issues I've seen with them I think I'll stick to a plain Bitspower one...


I use nothing but BP res,quality is spot on.

As for cases,considered a little devil v8? Designed from the start for watercooling and better looking than the switch or the 800d....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, it's got to be about time for Corsair to release a new full tower. They need a case that can accept a 560 rad IMO...


I'm sure they're going to be tweaking/milking their mid-size lineup before a new full tower is launched. The 700/800D is still a solid contender though the should seriously consider dropping the price ~$200 (a bit less for the debunked 700D). This should give it a few more years until they come up with a new flagship full tower.

Yeah, that 800D build showed my first helix res. What a lovely thing. This new one is leaking like a stuffed piggy


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use nothing but BP res,quality is spot on.
> As for cases,considered a little devil v8? Designed from the start for watercooling and better looking than the switch or the 800d....


This case is awsome but it's more than 600$ (The new little devil LD PC-V8 ATX/HPTX )

Its not only for watercooling, see image below.





There is also the XSPC H2 tower for 500$ also a very good case for watercooling.


----------



## wermad

The xspc case is garbage for that price. It should be priced under $300 usd. I had one and its super wobbly, its hard to assemble properly, and though it offers good water cooling options, it fails in all other areas (ie drive bay system, etc).

I like the LD, but its priced too high. For me, an M10 or an STH10 are nearing perfection (as well as wallet murder







).


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Those cases look very functional but I much prefer the styling of consumer-style cases like the TJ11 and Cosmos II honestly. All of the specialty W/Cing cases are just so plain Jane looking on the outside with no apparent styling whatsoever (just a big metal box with ventilation holes).


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Those cases look very functional but I much prefer the styling of consumer-style cases like the TJ11 and Cosmos II honestly. All of the specialty W/Cing cases are just so plain Jane looking on the outside with no apparent styling whatsoever (just a big metal box with ventilation holes).


Even the little devil 8?

I find it very attractive. If I didnt have spend so many hours modding my 800D, I would be all over it. But my 800D deserves more mods and more years of service. This Case saw LGA 775 for a week, then LGA 1366 for a year and a half and now it's hosting socket 2011.

Honestly, look at this, isnt that just amazing













The window could be better in my opinion, but.....we all know how to mod, don't we?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Inside, yes. My gripe with these types of cases is the metal filing cabinet-esque exterior design. The case needs to look good on my desk as well as being functional...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> This case is awsome but it's more than 600$ (The new little devil LD PC-V8 ATX/HPTX )
> Its not only for watercooling, see image below.
> 
> 
> There is also the XSPC H2 tower for 500$ also a very good case for watercooling.


That second little devil is the v10,was looking at one myself,twin head version for my SR 2...not got the cooling power,only does 300w....shame,coz it looks mint.


----------



## seraphicsoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Looks great. No offense however, but that is a waste of a case running only a single 360


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Maybe he sleeps in the bottom half?


Of course I'm gonna get another rad for the bottom soon! It's always the money thing, you know... I also want another reservoir since my current one seems to trap the air in the loop.... Oh yes, there shall be upgrades, not to worry...

The case does deserve more, though, I agree. It shall become even more epic over time!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Inside, yes. My gripe with these types of cases is the metal filing cabinet-esque exterior design. The case needs to look good on my desk as well as being functional...


When LD launched this, I was ready to pull the trigger but I kept asking how much space was behind the mb tray since I had a large psu with thick sleeved cables (double wires per sleeve). I only got a reply of "its designed for cable management". I studied it a bit more and felt it was lacking. I ended up with the MM Ext. Ascension which has a ton of space but little to no cable management.

I will admit the TJ11 is the best of the mass produced cases but its absurdly expensive. I rank CL as best case overall and the price is some what justifiable (better justification than the TJ11) imo.

Tbh, most modders will take any case and try to make it their own and "better"


----------



## Derko1

I would love to have a bigger case. I have to make do with my HAF-922... someone told me just yesterday that the case was huge... and I said it was too small..









This is what my set up finally ended up looking like:


----------



## mandrix

Thanks everyone for your posts, links and tips on the cases. Corsair 800D & Seasonic 1000w psu on the way from Amazon, and a new Lamptron fan controller from frozencpu via Amazon, some more sleeving stuff from FTW PC. Think I'll quit ordering for today.








Going to wait until the case gets here then make my mind up on the w/c parts. Right now the plan is to put my other Z77X-UD5H in this case but that's as far as I've got planned.
Hopefully my Raystorm block will be here today and I'll test it on my current rig then eventually move it to the Corsair build.
Was planning on a single 7970 gpu for now but haven't decided for sure.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Project Rainfall:









Video of it in action:



Build Log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1202757/build-log-project-rainfall/30_30#post_17443763


----------



## bundymania

EK is missing this time, they don´t wanna send me a block for my roundup....


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Looks rather.. err.. plain.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> EK is missing this time, they don´t wanna send me a block for my roundup....


After seeing their new "circle" design blocks I think I'm not going to buy another EK product again. I'm stick with Aquacomputer or Koolance for my next FC block.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> When LD launched this, I was ready to pull the trigger but I kept asking how much space was behind the mb tray since I had a large psu with thick sleeved cables (double wires per sleeve). I only got a reply of "its designed for cable management". I studied it a bit more and felt it was lacking. I ended up with the MM Ext. Ascension which has a ton of space but little to no cable management.
> I will admit the TJ11 is the best of the mass produced cases but its absurdly expensive. I rank CL as best case overall and the price is some what justifiable (better justification than the TJ11) imo.
> Tbh, most modders will take any case and try to make it their own and "better"


1.5CM. I had a 1/2 ID tube running around the back of mine.


----------



## Eyedea

Bundy, do you know if theres any nickel Watercool or Aquacomputer 680 blocks in the pipeline?

I'll be damned if i buy the CSQ EK one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey werm are you wrapping your fitting threads with PTFE? Should only require a little bit(x1 wrap) to get you by til they get your issues sorted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few things.
> 
> 1. That. Avatar. Is Epic.
> 
> 2. PTFE is a good suggestion, but the acrylic you're putting the threading into is not very thick, so I'd be careful of getting some of that tape into your loop.
Click to expand...

If you use the PTFE properly you'll have zero worries about that. The trick is to set your thumb on one end tightly and stretch it to the width of the thread all the way around with just a slight overlap of tape over the end you're holding down. You should be able to break the tape off by stretching it once you've lapped itself. I've not once had a problem with PTFE with my acetal or acrylic blocks doing it this way. I understand the trepidation but if you do it right it shouldn't matter. Also you don't get ham fisted installing fittings. All my fittings have never seen the business end of a wrench. All hand tightened and not a single issue has arisen.









Thanks for the avvy compliment. Wish I could take credit for it but I got it off Google Image search. Can't wait for Absolution to launch on the date in my info. Might be one I actually jump on, on launch day.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Sorry to hear about the res wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question for you guys.... it's about my future watercooling loop. What kind of tubing should I use?
> -solid clear acrylic
> -copper tubing (polished)
> -chrome or nickel plaited copper tubing
> There are pros and cons to each. The clear acrylic would show the coolant (white). The copper would be cool and industrial and the plated copper would just look sick. Let me know what you guys think!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Stick with the copper tube as you can have that bent into the form you need to route your plumbing. I would think acrylic can be shaped that way but its more likely prone to crack and eventually leak so I would abandon that idea. Copper tube is a big jump both in time and money. Try a few things first with what's available immediately to enthusiasts. Imo, once you have mastered it, then start exploring outside of the box/norm
Click to expand...

For sure go with Copper. +1









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> God....I just discovered more water. It looks like one of the end caps could be leaking. I thought I saw this leaking on my initial leak test but I didn't realize it was an actual leak or from spillage. I got some paper napkins placed below the res so I can find out where this is coming from. Its normal for the water level to go down after a few days but my reservoir's water level has been dipping a bit every day and I've been topping it off. Seams like a leak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will keep you posted and I'll hold up on the rma until I'm 100% sure this thing is leaking.


PTFE the caps and that should solve the issue werm.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> God....I just discovered more water. It looks like one of the end caps could be leaking. I thought I saw this leaking on my initial leak test but I didn't realize it was an actual leak or from spillage. I got some paper napkins placed below the res so I can find out where this is coming from. Its normal for the water level to go down after a few days but my reservoir's water level has been dipping a bit every day and I've been topping it off. Seams like a leak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will keep you posted and I'll hold up on the rma until I'm 100% sure this thing is leaking.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't even entertain it,get it out of there before something gets showered...
> Not the first time I have heard this res leak or have poor QC..
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love the look of those FrozenQ reservoirs but judging from the amount of issues I've seen with them I think I'll stick to a plain Bitspower one...
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't had a single issue with my FrozenQ res.
Click to expand...

True there have been problems with them but they're very good reservoirs still. I rather like mine, I know people think the helices don't do anything but I would say they\re wrong cause I got no bubbles in my reservoir at all and there is no vortices in my loop.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, it's got to be about time for Corsair to release a new full tower. They need a case that can accept a 560 rad IMO...
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure they're going to be tweaking/milking their mid-size lineup before a new full tower is launched. The 700/800D is still a solid contender though the should seriously consider dropping the price ~$200 (a bit less for the debunked 700D). This should give it a few more years until they come up with a new flagship full tower.
> 
> Yeah, that 800D build showed my first helix res. What a lovely thing. This new one is leaking like a stuffed piggy
Click to expand...

I know you don't wanna hear it werm but I'ma bang the PTFE drum yet again. I separated the caps from the tube of my Res and put them back without the stuff. The instructions even say to use some PTFE on the rings when installing the caps. Also make sure the opening of the helices line up with the opening(s) in the cap if you have any end fittings at all. I didn't do that and while I had flow it couldn't keep up with the fill and coupled with lack of PTFE caused the leak in mine. Once I used PTFE, the leak went away.









I still like the 932 for a water cooler. Just wish it had removable bits(w/o modding) so I could install a radiator up front.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Project Rainfall:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Video of it in action:
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1202757/build-log-project-rainfall/30_30#post_17443763


Love that build dude. But having it on the Left side away from me I'd be out of my chair more than in it. Be afraid of something leaking and taking out my system.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK is missing this time, they don´t wanna send me a block for my roundup....


Might not have a working unit they want to send yet. But it's not hard to see why if they don't send you one. You're affiliated with OCN. They're getting killed on looks alone here.

EK >







< 80% OCN voters










~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Bundy: That HeatKiller block for the 680, along with the backplate, are just beautiful. Amazing style to that block. Hope it's performance is on par with other blocks.


----------



## jcho285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Bundy: That HeatKiller block for the 680, along with the backplate, are just beautiful. Amazing style to that block. Hope it's performance is on par with other blocks.


I have 680s with heat killer and it's fantastic. Directions are terrible but cards idle at 26C and highest I've seen in bf3 are high 30s.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love that build dude. But having it on the Left side away from me I'd be out of my chair more than in it. Be afraid of something leaking and taking out my system.


I tested it completely for leaks outside of the case. Entire thing is assembled with all mating surfaces flush and I use clear silicone during the assembly to make sure water cant get through anywhere. Lol trust me I'm the last person that wants anything leaking in there.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Bundy: That HeatKiller block for the 680, along with the backplate, are just beautiful. Amazing style to that block. Hope it's performance is on par with other blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> I have 680s with heat killer and it's fantastic. Directions are terrible but cards idle at 26C and highest I've seen in bf3 are high 30s.
Click to expand...

NIce, I only have my 7970 to compare with. The 680s run fairly cool anyhow, don't they? WIth out being able to overvolt them, I wouldn't think they'd generate a TON of heat. My 7970s idle at 32C core 28C VRMs, and full load in BF3 is about 38/40 respectively.


----------



## jcho285

On airwhites getting around 65C so these were a huge improvement for me.
Not being able to adjust the voltages really sucks.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> I tested it completely for leaks outside of the case. Entire thing is assembled with all mating surfaces flush and I use clear silicone during the assembly to make sure water cant get through anywhere. Lol trust me I'm the last person that wants anything leaking in there.


Great work there Intialdrive







Is that a normal type res? Or is it set up as a bong cooler? How are the temps?


----------



## protzman

havent really been following this thread so maybe this is old news, Anybody seen the new EK stuff they just released? looks pretty sleek


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> havent really been following this thread so maybe this is old news, Anybody seen the new EK stuff they just released? looks pretty sleek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


80% of people hate the design and complain loudly on for example XS. Hopefully EK will change back to the old style or atleast offer the old tops for sale.


----------



## protzman

ok, welp thats your opinion


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ok, welp thats your opinion


----------



## StormProtocol

*hoping to join the cool kids club.*











*Let me know what you guys think about my first build.*

*-Storm*


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> EK is missing this time, they don´t wanna send me a block for my roundup....


I need to read your 7970 block roundup......figure out what I'm going to get.


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ok, welp thats your opinion


Not just mine but 83% of everyone on XS liquid cooling section according to their poll:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?281375-EK-Circle-Design-POLL


----------



## derickwm

Don't forget the ocn poll as well. I'd post it but I'm on my phone


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ok, welp thats your opinion


Ugly Design, i don´t like them !


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Bundy, do you know if theres any nickel Watercool or Aquacomputer 680 blocks in the pipeline?
> I'll be damned if i buy the CSQ EK one.


Yeah, both already listed in their own webshop


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

My reservoir still has condensation on the inside, even after put in a fan to help vent directly. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## derickwm

Why they no have nickel plated 7970 blocks


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Can't agree here. I run stronger dyes than anyone and I get zero clogging. Dye is not the problem. Plasticizer is.
> 
> 
> 
> This^^
Click to expand...

I second this, and have seen it first hand. This what I came home to after forgetting to turn off my PC after going on vacation.

The plasticizer floating in my tubing


The gunk that formed in my block


----------



## Eyedea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah, both already listed in their own webshop


I see them, cheers. They must of only appeared on the site in the last few days or so, sure i checked there 2 days ago


----------



## kcuestag

I have a few questions:

1. I had a silver kill coil on the way but it seems it probably got lost on the way so I probably won't be getting it any time soon, how long is it considered safe to run distilled water with no biocide or anti-corro? I've been using distilled water alone for almost 3 weeks now, should I drop some mayhems biocide and some anti corro or wait some more?

2. What's a better solution to keep my loop clean for the long term, having mayhems biocide and anti corro fluid or just a silver kill coil? I'm asking because the last time I used the mayhems biocide and the anti-corro fluid it caused some cloud dirt in my reservoir and I think it was caused by the anti-corro fluid, maybe I put too much, or too little, I have no idea.

What are your suggestions, wait for kill coil to arrive or put some biocide and anti corro already?


----------



## Qu1ckset

what would get better temps?
a Magicool Extreme Dual 180mm x 35mm Slim Radiator or Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 Radiator ??

and how are those Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System Radiator / Pump / Reservoir Combos, look kind a cool but expensive, any good?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> what would get better temps?
> a Magicool Extreme Dual 180mm x 35mm Slim Radiator or Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 Radiator ??
> and how are those Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System Radiator / Pump / Reservoir Combos, look kind a cool but expensive, any good?


The 2x180mm would be the better choice. I have a 3x180mm in my FT02 and it works extremely well.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> what would get better temps?
> a Magicool Extreme Dual 180mm x 35mm Slim Radiator or Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 Radiator ??
> and how are those Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System Radiator / Pump / Reservoir Combos, look kind a cool but expensive, any good?


Id go with the 2*180 rad. But if you want to go the 360 rout, I have pics of a RS360,RX360 and a EX360 in a black and white RV02 case if you want to see what it'll look like.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> what would get better temps?
> a Magicool Extreme Dual 180mm x 35mm Slim Radiator or Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 Radiator ??
> and how are those Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System Radiator / Pump / Reservoir Combos, look kind a cool but expensive, any good?


This helped me in deciding on a RAD





I was looking at the black ice as well, but they have horrible PSI drop


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 1. I had a silver kill coil on the way but it seems it probably got lost on the way so I probably won't be getting it any time soon, how long is it considered safe to run distilled water with no biocide or anti-corro? I've been using distilled water alone for almost 3 weeks now, should I drop some mayhems biocide and some anti corro or wait some more?


I think I ran my loop with plain distilled water for about a month, nothing showed. The key for any type of water cooled setup is to keep it away from sunlight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 2. What's a better solution to keep my loop clean for the long term, having mayhems biocide and anti corro fluid or just a silver kill coil? I'm asking because the last time I used the mayhems biocide and the anti-corro fluid it caused some cloud dirt in my reservoir and I think it was caused by the anti-corro fluid, maybe I put too much, or too little, I have no idea.
> What are your suggestions, wait for kill coil to arrive or put some biocide and anti corro already?


I'm a little biased since I only use silver so I'd recommend that. I don't have any personal experience with Mayhem's biocide or other fluids for that matter (other than Feser UV dye → stay away).


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The 2x180mm would be the better choice. I have a 3x180mm in my FT02 and it works extremely well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Id go with the 2*180 rad. But if you want to go the 360 rout, I have pics of a RS360,RX360 and a EX360 in a black and white RV02 case if you want to see what it'll look like.


I'm not looking to water cool my rv03, I'm looking at options for watercoolering the rv04 when its released, it has two 180mm fans in the front


----------



## mironccr345

Ahhh, ok. In that case. Get the MagicCool 2*180 rad. Hopefully they make a thicker version too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 1. I had a silver kill coil on the way but it seems it probably got lost on the way so I probably won't be getting it any time soon, how long is it considered safe to run distilled water with no biocide or anti-corro? I've been using distilled water alone for almost 3 weeks now, should I drop some mayhems biocide and some anti corro or wait some more?
> 
> 
> 
> I think I ran my loop with plain distilled water for about a month, nothing showed. The key for any type of water cooled setup is to keep it away from sunlight.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 2. What's a better solution to keep my loop clean for the long term, having mayhems biocide and anti corro fluid or just a silver kill coil? I'm asking because the last time I used the mayhems biocide and the anti-corro fluid it caused some cloud dirt in my reservoir and I think it was caused by the anti-corro fluid, maybe I put too much, or too little, I have no idea.
> What are your suggestions, wait for kill coil to arrive or put some biocide and anti corro already?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm a little biased since I only use silver so I'd recommend that. I don't have any personal experience with Mayhem's biocide or other fluids for that matter (other than Feser UV dye → stay away).
Click to expand...

Straight distilled here, no additives. My tubing is solid in color so that's not even an issue and my Reservoir doesn't get any sunlight since Darkside sits with his back to the window, which has a decent set of blinds on it.









~Ceadder


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> Not just mine but 83% of everyone on XS liquid cooling section according to their poll:
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?281375-EK-Circle-Design-POLL


welp, thats yours and 83% of everyone on XS liquid cooling section according too their poll's opinion


----------



## wermad

I just ordered a Micro res on ebay from HellFireToyz. They're in AZ so I'm hoping it will arrive in the next few days. Svc.com is always out of stock and they never update their items. No word from Alex, I'm thinking I should just email their customer support


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just ordered a Micro res on ebay from HellFireToyz. They're in AZ so I'm hoping it will arrive in the next few days. Svc.com is always out of stock and they never update their items. No word from Alex, I'm thinking I should just email their customer support


That's what you should do. If you need a good person to talk to I have their CS email. I left a comment on their FB page and they had me email them. It's round here someplace. I never delete important stuff.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> Not just mine but 83% of everyone on XS liquid cooling section according to their poll:
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?281375-EK-Circle-Design-POLL
> 
> 
> 
> welp, thats yours and 83% of everyone on XS liquid cooling section according too their poll's opinion
Click to expand...

And >80% of OCN opinion too. Don't even go to Red Rider either cause those guys are hardcore Anti EK right now.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's what you should do. If you need a good person to talk to I have their CS email. I left a comment on their FB page and they had me email them. It's round here someplace. I never delete important stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And >80% of OCN opinion too. Don't even go to Red Rider either cause those guys are hardcore Anti EK right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am a RRT regular,we used to be EK 'fans' but the CS fiasco ruined it for EK...not so much the flaking issue so much as the way they handled it....then Ek demanding 10k from sidewinders for selling the block which rubidium tested sealed their fate....

I also run DI and a kill coil,just drained my loop to test Mayhems Chameleon...no plasticizer issues and the water,although didn't smell fresh,was clear and clean


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I think I ran my loop with plain distilled water for about a month, nothing showed. The key for any type of water cooled setup is to keep it away from sunlight.
> I'm a little biased since I only use silver so I'd recommend that. I don't have any personal experience with Mayhem's biocide or other fluids for that matter (other than Feser UV dye → stay away).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Straight distilled here, no additives. My tubing is solid in color so that's not even an issue and my Reservoir doesn't get any sunlight since Darkside sits with his back to the window, which has a decent set of blinds on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Interesting, thank you for the replies.

I guess I'll wait a few more days, I'm disabling the whole rig apart in 2 weeks anyways since I'll be moving to my new house, if it doesn't arrive by then, I'll just use mayhems biocide and anti corro to be safe.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Okay, so I have a question while I am still in the design/shopping phase

Which of these set ups would work better...



Spoiler: WC Loop Design Thoughts




*or*


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Okay, so I have a question while I am still in the design/shopping phase
> 
> Which of these set ups would work better...
> 
> 
> *or*


I'd probably go with config number two, as it would be using air from outside the case to push through the radiators in both cases, and it will also certainly make sure you have positive air pressure to keep that case relatively dust free


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I'd probably go with config number two, as it would be using air from outside the case to push through the radiators in both cases, and it will also certainly make sure you have positive air pressure to keep that case relatively dust free


Thats kinda what I was thinking, plus both radiators would be on the bottom of a MM Ascension case w/ a horizontal motherboard panel


----------



## solidshark91493

Just because you guys seem to be in a helpful mood, lol Heres my paint drawing of what Im thinkin for my build.

Gonna have:
Asus Rampage IV extreme - with waterblocks
3930K cpu - Apogee HD waterblock
Two 7970's with swiftech komodo full cover blocks sporting a Crossfire X bridge
FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual Bay Reservoir - UV Green Helix
Black Ice® SR1 480 Radiator
Swiftech MCR-120 rad
And last but not least.. a Swiftech MCP655. Variable speed controlled, with a EK pump X top.

Order : Res -> pump-> mobo block 1 -> apogee hd -> small rad -> mobo block 2 -> back through the apogee again -> GPU 1&2 -> Big Rad -> Back to res.

(I made the tubes different colors just so they dont blend together, but they'll all be green)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Yay? Nay? I think it'll work real well.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Just because you guys seem to be in a helpful mood, lol Heres my paint drawing of what Im thinkin for my build.
> Gonna have:
> Asus Rampage IV extreme - with waterblocks
> 3930K cpu - Apogee HD waterblock
> Two 7970's with swiftech komodo full cover blocks sporting a Crossfire X bridge
> FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual Bay Reservoir - UV Green Helix
> Black Ice® SR1 480 Radiator
> Swiftech MCR-120 rad
> And last but not least.. a Swiftech MCP655. Variable speed controlled, with a EK pump X top.
> Order : Res -> pump-> mobo block 1 -> apogee hd -> small rad -> mobo block 2 -> back through the apogee again -> GPU 1&2 -> Big Rad -> Back to res.
> (I made the tubes different colors just so they dont blend together, but they'll all be green)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yay? Nay? I think it'll work real well.


Correct me if I am wrong but I thought the Apogee HD was 1 in 3 out? and isn't reversing flow on a Waterblock bad?


----------



## mdatmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am a RRT regular,we used to be EK 'fans' but the CS fiasco ruined it for EK...not so much the flaking issue so much as the way they handled it....then *Ek demanding 10k from sidewinders for selling the block which rubidium tested* sealed their fate....
> I also run DI and a kill coil,just drained my loop to test Mayhems Chameleon...no plasticizer issues and the water,although didn't smell fresh,was clear and clean


How on earth could EK blame sidewinders for selling a block?


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys here are a few pics of my rig so far. I want to add some universal water blocks on the gpu's next and add them to my loop. Let me know what you think I could do to make it any better. I am done for the moment with buying GPU's. I'm gonna be starting a new build in a Switch 810 in the next few weeks. So for that reason I'm not going to upgrade anymore of the major components on this one. Any constructive criticism will be very welcome.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Just use one in one out... the 3 out is optional and do everything linear in stead of parallel
> So instead of
> Res -> pump-> mobo block 1 -> apogee hd -> small rad -> mobo block 2 -> back through the apogee again -> GPU 1&2 -> Big Rad -> Back to res.
> Try
> Res -> Pump -> Mobo Block 1 > apogee HD -> Small Rad -> Mobo Block 2 -> GPU 1&2 -> Big Rad -> Res
> Basicly just cut out the return to the CPU.


Something like this? its sorta what I had.. but it just doesnt look very good to me..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Something like this? its sorta what I had.. but it just doesnt look very good to me..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, that should work, I bet it will look better in place than on paper


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol, MSPaint mock ups FTW!!


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, MSPaint mock ups FTW!!


Or CS6 in my case...lol


----------



## zdude

got the new CPU from intel a bit back, then had to RMA my motherboard and so far i am unimpressed with this combos OC ability, the most i have booted into windows at is just 4.3GHz and that was previously a 1.2V OC and it took 1.3V to just boot NOT STABLE at all so i am kind of frustrated not to mention for whatever reason with the new board i am getting terrible temps like 10C warmer than when i first used me H100 and 5C warmer than the old board, the strange thing is that my GTX 580 is running warmer too and it is on its own separate WC loop that hasn't been changed, between the two boards i didn't even drain the GPU loop.

Any ideas, did I get a bad board again or did i screw somthing up with my cooling when I replaced the board (ambients have remained about the same).


----------



## Alatar

All clear guys









OT: I really need to clean my supreme HF


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

BACK TO THE WATERCOOLING
made some changes to the Vulcan awhile back


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> BACK TO THE WATERCOOLING
> made some changes to the Vulcan awhile back


Nice setup


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Cheers. used to look like this:



and my old 600T setup:


----------



## mdatmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> got the new CPU from intel a bit back, then had to RMA my motherboard and so far i am unimpressed with this combos OC ability, the most i have booted into windows at is just 4.3GHz and that was previously a 1.2V OC and it took 1.3V to just boot NOT STABLE at all so i am kind of frustrated not to mention for whatever reason with the new board i am getting terrible temps like 10C warmer than when i first used me H100 and 5C warmer than the old board, the strange thing is that my GTX 580 is running warmer too and it is on its own separate WC loop that hasn't been changed, between the two boards i didn't even drain the GPU loop.
> Any ideas, did I get a bad board again or did i screw somthing up with my cooling when I replaced the board (ambients have remained about the same).


Have you tried remounting the CPU block? The mount can alter the temps you see by several degrees quite easily.
As far as the terrible OC ability it might be the board or the CPU.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Cheers. used to look like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and my old 600T setup:


So much with so limited space. That is just pure awesome mate


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So much with so limited space. That is just pure awesome mate


Cheers








had to mod the top of the case to fit the EX240, worked like a treat


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread UPDATED.


----------



## Aventadoor

I'm going to add a couple of quick diconnects and ive desided to add a flowmeter aswell!
Which flowmeter would you guys recommend? Id like to have one that reads the flow to the pc.


----------



## pbaines

My first ever build :')









Then this









NOW THIS


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> My first ever build :')
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW THIS


I do love evolution builds...


----------



## mandrix

Change in plan. Canceled the Corsair 800D & went with a white Switch 810. Switch was my original choice and it kept nagging me that all my builds are black. Time for a change.
Still dragging on w/c parts, except the Raystorm block which I already have.
I'm still thinking a single 7970 card at first, but I'm having trouble sorting out which blocks fit which cards. How can you find out if a card is a "reference" design which I assume the card must be for a full coverage block? (video card w/c noob)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Go to coolingconfigurator.com and enter your model number.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go to coolingconfigurator.com and enter your model number.


Thank you!
Looks like options are limited for Sapphire HD 7970.
Oh, wait, that's for EK. So if EK has a block that fits, chances are others will as well?


----------



## axipher

So I put the order for my water-cooling parts from Dazmode on Friday at 3 PM. Now keep in mind that Canada Post doesn't do deliveries on weekends which means packages only move on business days.

My package is out on truck for delivery as I type this. I only payed for the basic option which means that managed to get the package shipped out right away on Friday so that it could make it to my city. I might have a nice update for you tonight if everything goes as planned.

Anyone have some last minute tips for working with rotary spacers and compression fittings?


----------



## Krahe

They are pretty straight forward, treat them the same as anything with a thread, don't over tighten them and you should be fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Thank you!
> Looks like options are limited for Sapphire HD 7970.
> Oh, wait, that's for EK. So if EK has a block that fits, chances are others will as well?


EK will tell you if its reference or not,you make your choice once you know.
Very few blocks are made for non ref cards


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> My first ever build :')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW THIS


FROTHING


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys I've been following and asking tons of question but never asked if I can be added to the club list. So I'll ask now can I be added to the list please? Here's a few pics of my rig any constructive crticism is welcome.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

you are already in the list with 2 pics.
I know this,i added you myself


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> you are already in the list with 2 pics.
> I know this,i added you myself


Oh I am? Ok Awesome Thank You and sorry about that. My memeory need and upgrade. Sometimes I wonder if I can add a SSD and maybe 32 Gb of ram to myself. Lol!!


----------



## (sic)

So I made the mistake of trying out Ice Dragon Cooling instead of straight distilled. After running 3 nickel blocks(EK EN), 720 worth of rad space, and ~7ft of tubing for 5 days I've noticed a really unpleasant yellow/greenish discoloration in my Primochill LRT clear tubing...







I knew the issues of using both IDC and Primochill, but wanted to test it my self. Lessen learned.

I will be purchasing some Durelene tubing as recommended by Martinm210 from the Plasticizer Problem thread.

I know a little bit about the EK fiasco last year and would like to avoid that if possible. Before I place this order I want to know what additive needs to be run with the distilled water to avoid any flaking/corrosion problems (PT-nuke, silver coil, etc)?

Thanks!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> So I made the mistake of trying out Ice Dragon Cooling instead of straight distilled. After running 3 nickel blocks(EK EN), 720 worth of rad space, and ~7ft of tubing for 5 days I've noticed a really unpleasant yellow/greenish discoloration in my Primochill LRT clear tubing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew the issues of using both IDC and Primochill, but wanted to test it my self. Lessen learned.
> I will be purchasing some Durelene tubing as recommended by Martinm210 from the Plasticizer Problem thread.
> I know a little bit about the EK fiasco last year and would like to avoid that if possible. Before I place this order I want to know what additive needs to be run with the distilled water to avoid any flaking/corrosion problems (PT-nuke, silver coil, etc)?
> Thanks!


You cant avoid it,its all down to EKs shoddy plating prep,no amount of anti corrosive will stop it.

Do you have UV lights in your rig?


----------



## (sic)

No UV lights...

So I am to only run distilled, nothing else?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK will tell you if its reference or not,you make your choice once you know.
> Very few blocks are made for non ref cards


Thanks again. Back to looking for parts.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Oh I am? Ok Awesome Thank You and sorry about that. My memeory need and upgrade. Sometimes I wonder if I can add a SSD and maybe 32 Gb of ram to myself. Lol!!


As cool as that would be, it would actually slow you down...
Quote:


> Processing Power and Speed
> The human brain - We can only estimate the processing power of the average human brain as there is no way to measure it quantitatively as of yet. If the theory of taking nerve volume to be proportional to processing power is true we then, may have a correct estimate of the human brain's processing power.
> 
> It is fortunate that we understand the neural assemblies is the retina of the vertebrate eye quite well (structurally and functionally) because it helps to give us a idea of the human brain's capability.
> 
> The retina is a nerve tissue in the back of the eyeball which detects lights and sends images to the brain. A human retina has a size of about a centimeter square is half a millimeter thick and is made up of 100 million neurons. Scientists say that the retina sends to the brain, particular patches of images indicating light intensity differences which are transported via the optic nerve, a million-fiber cable which reaches deep into the brain.
> 
> Overall, the retina seems to process about ten one-million-point images per second.
> 
> Because the 1,500 cubic centimeter human brain is about 100,000 times as large as the retina, by simple calculation, we can estimate the processing power of a average brain to be about 100 million MIPS (Million computer Instructions Per Second ). In case you're wondering how much speed that is, let us give you an idea.
> 
> 1999's fastest PC processor chip on the market was a 700 MHz pentium that did 4200 MIPS. By simple calculation, we can see that we would need at least 24,000 of these processors in a system to match up to the total speed of the brain !! (Which means the brain is like a 168,0000 MHz Pentium computer). But even so, other factors like memory and the complexity of the system needed to handle so many processors will not be a simple task. Because of these factors, the figures we so childishly calculated will most probably be a very serious underestimate.


----------



## bundymania

...Raystorm style..................................like it ?


----------



## mironccr345

^^ WHOA! That looks Sexy!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

All my Corsair SP fans arrived..

Lower rads fitted.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All my Corsair SP fans arrived..
> Lower rads fitted.


Wow those fans actually look sexy, how do those compare to ap15s!?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Wow those fans actually look sexy, how do those compare to ap15s!?


According the the Corsair fan thread,they stack up well.
I will let everyone know what they are like once i fire them up,i have a SPL meter so i can give Db levels.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> According the the Corsair fan thread,they stack up well.
> I will let everyone know what they are like once i fire them up,i have a SPL meter so i can give Db levels.


So the SP120's are for bringing air in like a front intake fan to make high static pressure and the AF120s are for blowing air out like a top or back exhaust and/or side panel intake.

Idealy SP120's in the front bringing air into the machine the case. And AF120s on the top pulling air out through the radiator?

Correct me if im wrong.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

its a 1100 rpm 140 in the front.
SP 120s on all the rads and AF 120s as one exhaust in the mobo section and 92mm fan as an exhaust in the rad bay..wont be using that however.
There are plenty of grills all over the rear of the case,i think positive pressure will work well..

Soon find out!
XD


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> its a 1100 rpm 140 in the front.
> SP 120s on all the rads and AF 120s as one exhaust in the mobo section and 92mm fan as an exhaust in the rad bay..wont be using that however.
> There are plenty of grills all over the rear of the case,i think positive pressure will work well..
> Soon find out!
> XD


For example, the rads are being used as the exhaust (different case obviously but top mounted rad), Would you put the AF120's or the SP120s on them?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> For example, the rads are being used as the exhaust (different case obviously but top mounted rad), Would you put the AF120's or the SP120s on them?


SP's,they are the rad fan out of the line up,they say the AF is purely a CFM shifter and has less than ideal performance on rads.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> SP's,they are the rad fan out of the line up,they say the AF is purely a CFM shifter and has less than ideal performance on rads.


Then the Af's would be more of a intake fan?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Then the Af's would be more of a intake fan?


Or exhaust,its primarily a case fan,it cant deal with obstructions to airflow


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or exhaust,its primarily a case fan,it cant deal with obstructions to airflow


What would qualify as obstructions? The Mesh in the front of a 600T or rad-like objects

SP120s should work well as top mounted rad pullers then?


----------



## superericla

I'll have around $500-700 within the week. Should I upgrade my CPU/Mobo to x79 first, or get a GTX 680 first?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...Raystorm style..................................like it ?


I would prefer it to be more like the Heatkiller setup, but that isn't bad. After using two of their Razor blocks, I've come to HATE their damn bulkhead fittings from the blocks being so thin!!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

EK better hurry up and say something about the 7970 Lightning blocks otherwise I'm just gonna trade them for reference cards...


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I'm going to add a couple of quick diconnects and ive desided to add a flowmeter aswell!
> Which flowmeter would you guys recommend? Id like to have one that reads the flow to the pc.


If you want to use a motherboard fan header for flow rate reading you can use one of these Koolance flow meters : http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_109_70&product_id=1170 or http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_109_70&product_id=740 with this frequency adapter : http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_109_70&product_id=1057 or you can use this one that I have in one of my systems : http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p11828_flow-sensor-GMR-transparent-G1-2-outer-thread-Highflow---including-electronics--LED-and-3Pin-plug.html


----------



## quakermaas

Refilled my system today after doing some work, forgot to replace the bleed screws on both the radiators out the back of the case, started the computer and kept topping up the res.







( I knew it would happen sometime), then realised the water was shooting up the wall and dripping down all over the electric sockets







, lucky everything was ok.

OK the updates.

How it looked a few days ago



And now.


----------



## superericla

I have $500 now which I'll use to get a GTX 670 + water block. I'll be getting around $200-250 tomorrow so if I sell my 6970 + water block I'll have enough to get an x79 mobo and CPU.


----------



## wermad

I got a reply from Alex, he's going to send me a replacement asap and with the side ports


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Awesome Wermad!


----------



## mandrix

Don't think I ever posted a pic in this thread. It needs tidying up, I left the one tube long because I'll be moving the Raystorm to my upcoming build. Same with wiring, I got a replacement fan controller coming and a Bitspower X station and then I'll get it tidied up.
So far got a Switch 810 coming and ordered a D5 variable from Sidewinder today. Got some paracord sleeving in to practice with when I get some tools I ordered.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> So I made the mistake of trying out Ice Dragon Cooling instead of straight distilled. After running 3 nickel blocks(EK EN), 720 worth of rad space, and ~7ft of tubing for 5 days I've noticed a really unpleasant yellow/greenish discoloration in my Primochill LRT clear tubing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew the issues of using both IDC and Primochill, but wanted to test it my self. Lessen learned.
> I will be purchasing some Durelene tubing as recommended by Martinm210 from the Plasticizer Problem thread.
> I know a little bit about the EK fiasco last year and would like to avoid that if possible. Before I place this order I want to know what additive needs to be run with the distilled water to avoid any flaking/corrosion problems (PT-nuke, silver coil, etc)?
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> You cant avoid it,its all down to EKs shoddy plating prep,no amount of anti corrosive will stop it.
> 
> Do you have UV lights in your rig?
Click to expand...

This. Either you get one that never corrodes or you get one that flakes and peels away after a short amount of time. Some say that it doesn't hurt anything but I don't see how metal plating doesn't at least create blocked passages in the Radiator or gum up your pump(s). Especially if you have an Acetal top block and can't see there is anything wrong or not.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'll have around $500-700 within the week. Should I upgrade my CPU/Mobo to x79 first, or get a GTX 680 first?


Get 7870. Heard AMD was SPOSED to come out with 7890 but don't know if that got put on the back burner or was disinformation.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got a reply from Alex, he's going to send me a replacement asap and with the side ports


Awesome. See, all ya had to do was ask.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Chameleon


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Chameleon


From the photo it looks like a color change, can you explain whats going on, flow rate/direction and water temp before and after GPU, I'm lucky to measure 1-2C difference around my loop. I'm guessing there's a narrow band where it changes and I'd need to tune my loop to that to see a similar effect.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I would like to announce the passing of the torch, the going of one saga, and the beginning of another.

Please welcome B NEGATIVE as your new Keeper of the List

The ownership of the thread will shortly be transferred to his name, to match what he has already been doing for me for the last month.

B, please let me know if you ever need my help or if you need the second or third posts for something.


----------



## Mayhem

this effect is just been done to show the difference in colour the pump was slowed right down to cause the effect to be seen. in reality on a normal system the colour would fade from Red to white slowly. The temp needed for full colour change is a 3c difference for start of effect to end. Were all so still perfecting the fluid.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> this effect is just been done to show the difference in colour the pump was slowed right down to cause the effect to be seen. in reality on a normal system the colour would fade from Red to white slowly. The temp needed for full colour change is a 3c difference for start of effect to end. Were all so still perfecting the fluid.


thats knarly!!!!


----------



## Mayhem

This for e.g is 27 to 30c


----------



## DarkHayZe

I had a thought earlier and really do not know the answer to, would it be worth it, or just counter productive, to put a gasket around the panels of a case in an attempt to seal it as much as possible?

Keep in mind that my upcoming build (Eye Candy) will have 6 intake fans in the front 3 in the back 3/3 of which will have a RAD on it. two exhaust fans on the back plus the PSU and 4 exhaust fans on top.


----------



## ikem

if that meyhem coolant comes in some different color pairs. this will be my next coolant.

some new pics of my only water cooled rig.


----------



## Ceadderman

No offense Mayhem, but I stopped doin Mood Rings when I was 12. I'm sure there are lots of people that will do the color changing coolant but...









~Ceadder


----------



## Mayhem

Well we all so have UV Reactive as well and some other stuff but like you say its not for all but we cater for every one not just single users







. Consider us opening up the market for you the users to get more creative. If we can inspire more users to come into the community and join in the fun that is water cooling then one of my goals is complete.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I think that's pretty neat that you could quickly tell the temps of your coolant throughout the loop just by its color!









Meanwhile, it definitely wouldn't work aesthetically in my build...


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> welp, thats yours and 83% of everyone on XS liquid cooling section according too their poll's opinion


also the EK poll on OCN
http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well we all so have UV Reactive as well and some other stuff but like you say its not for all but we cater for every one not just single users
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Consider us opening up the market for you the users to get more creative. If we can inspire more users to come into the community and join in the fun that is water cooling then one of my goals is complete.


Next step: color changing aurora fluid?


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> also the EK poll on OCN
> http://www.overclock.net/t/942878/overclock-nets-line-of-duckychannel-mechanical-keyboards/2170#post_17425654


Wrong thread.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> Wrong thread.


thanks , edited !
http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> I would like to announce the passing of the torch, the going of one saga, and the beginning of another.
> Please welcome B NEGATIVE as your new Keeper of the List
> The ownership of the thread will shortly be transferred to his name, to match what he has already been doing for me for the last month.
> B, please let me know if you ever need my help or if you need the second or third posts for something.


But Kev, What will do without being "updated" by you all the time?

But anyways, *Welcome to B Negative!







*


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Amazon simply rules guys! I got my replacement TJ11 in today (processed the return late Friday night!!!!) and it is absolutely flawless! The first one I received was pretty obviously a prior return now that I see how the case is supposed to be packaged. The aluminum mouse pad was in a bubble-wrap compartment whereas in the first case it just fell out when I opened the box. The top panel is in perfect shape, there are no dents in the slot covers, and the side panels go on and off like buttah! This case is just gorgeous!

There are only two small complaints that I have so far (and I discussed them briefly in the review I did for my YT channel).

1. The side panels are held on with thumb screws. WTH?!?! My 600T has beautiful latches that make entry into the case a breeze. The TJ11 use FOUR screws to hold on the side panel! Seems silly for a $600 case.

2. There are no tool-less drive bays. Granted, I understand that this was probably done to keep that area of the case as flexible as possible (for rad mounts or pumps or whatever) but even an $80 Cooler Master case has tool-less drive bays.

Otherwise, this is by far the highest quality case I have ever seen in person. The size is immense and the elegant details abound. I particularly like the 90 degree rotation of the mobo tray, the fact that the mobo tray is removable, the ducts in the side of the case that feed fresh air to the 180mm Air Penetrator fans (like the side ducts of a sports car), and the fact that the entire case is held together by screws rather than rivets. Not to mention the built-in fan controllers and the option to fit a 560mm radiator! Anyway, here are some pics to check out!

























Just a fantastic case overall and I couldn't be happier to be building my new rig in a mint TJ11! By the way here is a teaser of a couple other components that came in:


----------



## wermad

Needs an SR1 560 ni there^^^


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Think I'm gonna go with a GTX 560 actually!


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Amazon simply rules guys! I got my replacement TJ11 in today (processed the return late Friday night!!!!) and it is absolutely flawless! The first one I received was pretty obviously a prior return now that I see how the case is supposed to be packaged. The aluminum mouse pad was in a bubble-wrap compartment whereas in the first case it just fell out when I opened the box. The top panel is in perfect shape, there are no dents in the slot covers, and the side panels go on and off like buttah! This case is just gorgeous!
> There are only two small complaints that I have so far (and I discussed them briefly in the review I did for my YT channel).
> 1. The side panels are held on with thumb screws. WTH?!?! My 600T has beautiful latches that make entry into the case a breeze. The TJ11 use FOUR screws to hold on the side panel! Seems silly for a $600 case.
> 2. There are no tool-less drive bays. Granted, I understand that this was probably done to keep that area of the case as flexible as possible (for rad mounts or pumps or whatever) but even an $80 Cooler Master case has tool-less drive bays.
> Otherwise, this is by far the highest quality case I have ever seen in person. The size is immense and the elegant details abound. I particularly like the 90 degree rotation of the mobo tray, the fact that the mobo tray is removable, the ducts in the side of the case that feed fresh air to the 180mm Air Penetrator fans (like the side ducts of a sports car), and the fact that the entire case is held together by screws rather than rivets. Not to mention the built-in fan controllers and the option to fit a 560mm radiator! Anyway, here are some pics to check out!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a fantastic case overall and I couldn't be happier to be building my new rig in a mint TJ11! By the way here is a teaser of a couple other components that came in:


The more pictures I see of this case, the more I'm convinced that I want one. Not going to give up on my Lancool that easily, though. I do like a challenge.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This for e.g is 27 to 30c


That's pretty badass... The color changing coolant reminds me of the custom paint job I had on a sportscar I use to own.


----------



## quakermaas

Few pictures I found from about 9 years ago.

Pentium 4 3.06 HT socket 478 on an Abit apogee motherboard, my first venture into watercooling.

Ordered the Res. and UV dye (useless) from the US and shipped to Ireland.

Don't laugh


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Few pictures I found from about 9 years ago.
> 
> Pentium 4 3.06 HT socket 478 on an Abit apogee motherboard, my first venture into watercooling.
> Ordered the Res. and UV dye (useless) from the US and shipped to Ireland.
> 
> Don't laugh


That is a beautiful thing


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> That is a beautiful thing


Thanks.

Acrylic case is impossible to keep clean, a real pain in the rear.


----------



## superericla

Looks like I'll have a GTX 680 in a few days.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> I would like to announce the passing of the torch, the going of one saga, and the beginning of another.
> Please welcome B NEGATIVE as your new Keeper of the List
> The ownership of the thread will shortly be transferred to his name, to match what he has already been doing for me for the last month.
> B, please let me know if you ever need my help or if you need the second or third posts for something.


Thanks Kevin.
Dont be a stranger tho yeah?

Keep the pics coming people!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Looks like I'll have a GTX 680 in a few days.


After seeing the 670 FTW in action,im getting 3 of those beauties instead of the 7970s now. Plus they take a 680 block and b/plate.....i think 'WIN' is applicable here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Cable management is almost nonexistent in those cases too. Yeah you can keep the clutter fairly clean looking but I wasn't too keen with having unused PSU cables laying around tucked up behind the PSU. Just didn't look right.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> After seeing the 670 FTW in action,im getting 3 of those beauties instead of the 7970s now. Plus they take a 680 block and b/plate.....i think 'WIN' is applicable here.


Very much so. I was considering the 670 FTW actually, I just happened to get a good deal on a 680 so I chose that instead. Once my 6970 + water block sells I should have enough to upgrade to x79 as well. It's a big upgrade month for me.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Very much so. I was considering the 670 FTW actually, I just happened to get a good deal on a 680 so I chose that instead. Once my 6970 + water block sells I should have enough to upgrade to x79 as well. It's a big upgrade month for me.


Hows the FTW compared to the SC+ 4gb (EVGA)


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Hows the FTW compared to the SC+ 4gb (EVGA)


I'm not entirely sure actually. For the most part, the 680 is ~5-10fps faster than the 670 at best and the extra ram would help a lot at higher resolutions.

/off-topic
The funniest thing I saw today looking at the GTX 680 is this. It's just so small.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The funniest thing I saw today looking at the GTX 680 is this. It's just so small.










Cute little thing, like a little puppy or kitten


----------



## ChaosAD

I am about to redo my loop, clean the case etc. I would like to ask before going on, is there a better cpu block to use with a 3770k than the xspc raystorm? It will be a cpu only loop with the setup listed on my sig.


----------



## jackofhearts495

May as well put these up here for the sake of moar pics. I made a few changes to the loop after I cleaned it out to get it ready to sell (added the Bitspower T, radiator back up top, a few other minor things).


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Amazon simply rules guys! I got my replacement TJ11 in today (processed the return late Friday night!!!!) and it is absolutely flawless! The first one I received was pretty obviously a prior return now that I see how the case is supposed to be packaged. The aluminum mouse pad was in a bubble-wrap compartment whereas in the first case it just fell out when I opened the box. The top panel is in perfect shape, there are no dents in the slot covers, and the side panels go on and off like buttah! This case is just gorgeous!
> There are only two small complaints that I have so far (and I discussed them briefly in the review I did for my YT channel).
> 1. The side panels are held on with thumb screws. WTH?!?! My 600T has beautiful latches that make entry into the case a breeze. The TJ11 use FOUR screws to hold on the side panel! Seems silly for a $600 case.
> 2. There are no tool-less drive bays. Granted, I understand that this was probably done to keep that area of the case as flexible as possible (for rad mounts or pumps or whatever) but even an $80 Cooler Master case has tool-less drive bays.
> Otherwise, this is by far the highest quality case I have ever seen in person. The size is immense and the elegant details abound. I particularly like the 90 degree rotation of the mobo tray, the fact that the mobo tray is removable, the ducts in the side of the case that feed fresh air to the 180mm Air Penetrator fans (like the side ducts of a sports car), and the fact that the entire case is held together by screws rather than rivets. Not to mention the built-in fan controllers and the option to fit a 560mm radiator! Anyway, here are some pics to check out!


I know you're gonna have fun with that! I thought about getting one, just out of my price range. Good luck with your new build.


----------



## PCModderMike

I think there was a thread started about EK's new block designs, but I saw some new photos this morning, thought I would share to see everyone's opinions. I'm not really digging them myself...






Spoiler: More Colors


----------



## Krahe

Well EK are certainly thinking outside the square







....not to fond of the look myself, I wonder if they hired some big marketing firm to help improve their image and design after all the trouble they have had, if so I think it may have backfired big time.


----------



## jackofhearts495

I think they could look spectacular under the right circumstances in the right build. But otherwise... meh.


----------



## Lu(ky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think there was a thread started about EK's new block designs, but I saw some new photos this morning, thought I would share to see everyone's opinions. I'm not really digging them myself...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Colors


Yeah agree thumbs down on this







All I can say I hope all this waiting for a GTX 690 block to come out looking like this I will buy another block from someone else..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Well EK are certainly thinking outside the square
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....not to fond of the look myself, I wonder if they hired some big marketing firm to help improve their image and design after all the trouble they have had, if so I think it may have backfired big time.


I like the old EK not allot of lettering all over my blocks or numbers, just nice and clean look like they use to do it months ago...


----------



## coolmiester

*System Spec:*
Cosmos II
EVGA SR-X Motherboard
Intel Xeon E5-2687W 2011 CPU's
EVGA GTX680 Hydro Copper GPU's
Memory - Kingston HyperX 48GB
SSD's - Kingston 120GB
Coolermaster 1300w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU


----------



## axipher

Small update to my Core 1000 Build Log:

*Project Maple Leaf*


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> *System Spec:*
> Cosmos II
> EVGA SR-X Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W 2011 CPU's
> EVGA GTX680 Hydro Copper GPU's
> Memory - Kingston HyperX 48GB
> SSD's - Kingston 120GB
> Coolermaster 1300w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow,that's a badass rig, well done man


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Small update to my Core 1000 Build Log:
> 
> *Project Maple Leaf*


Nice work there mate, came out very clean and original.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Small update to my Core 1000 Build Log:
> 
> *Project Maple Leaf*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work there mate, came out very clean and original.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, it was really the only way to get everything to fit. The only other option was getting something like the Apogee Drive 2, or dissecting my H80 and using the Pump/Block off that.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*


I... uhh...









Were you sponsored by EVGA?


----------



## Byakuya27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> *System Spec:*
> Cosmos II
> EVGA SR-X Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W 2011 CPU's
> EVGA GTX680 Hydro Copper GPU's
> Memory - Kingston HyperX 48GB
> SSD's - Kingston 120GB
> Coolermaster 1300w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU


----------



## Rognin

Here's my update on the new rig.



Leak testing, tomorrow I hook everyting up and boot up! =D


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Here's my update on the new rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leak testing, tomorrow I hook everyting up and boot up! =D


Looks awesome


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Don't think I ever posted a pic in this thread. It needs tidying up, I left the one tube long because I'll be moving the Raystorm to my upcoming build. Same with wiring, I got a replacement fan controller coming and a Bitspower X station and then I'll get it tidied up.
> So far got a Switch 810 coming and ordered a D5 variable from Sidewinder today. Got some paracord sleeving in to practice with when I get some tools I ordered.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


awesome rig!, wondering if this is PATRIOTIC RIG?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Chameleon
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This for e.g is 27 to 30c
Click to expand...

nice setups! I like a Koolance CHROME WB 370, a BLING-BLING Thing..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> *System Spec:*
> Cosmos II
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA SR-X Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W 2011 CPU's
> EVGA GTX680 Hydro Copper GPU's
> Memory - Kingston HyperX 48GB
> SSD's - Kingston 120GB
> Coolermaster 1300w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU
> 
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> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
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a looking sexy RIG!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Small update to my Core 1000 Build Log:
> 
> *Project Maple Leaf*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks man, it was really the only way to get everything to fit. The only other option was getting something like the Apogee Drive 2, or dissecting my H80 and using the Pump/Block off that.
Click to expand...

WOW FACTOR! Nice creative! .... Dude you are the NATURALWICKED GENIUS!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Small update to my Core 1000 Build Log:
> 
> *Project Maple Leaf*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks man, it was really the only way to get everything to fit. The only other option was getting something like the Apogee Drive 2, or dissecting my H80 and using the Pump/Block off that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> WOW FACTOR! Nice creative! .... Dude you are the NATURALWICKED GENIUS!
Click to expand...

Haha, thanks man, you can see it in person at the OCN LAN


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> May as well put these up here for the sake of moar pics. I made a few changes to the loop after I cleaned it out to get it ready to sell (added the Bitspower T, radiator back up top, a few other minor things).


Hey I'm right up the road from you. I saw your ad selling your rig. Nice rig by the way.


----------



## bundymania

Very rare Eurocup Special Edition !


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Few pictures I found from about 9 years ago.
> 
> Pentium 4 3.06 HT socket 478 on an Abit apogee motherboard, my first venture into watercooling.
> Ordered the Res. and UV dye (useless) from the US and shipped to Ireland.
> 
> Don't laugh


You won't get any laughs out of me... I thought about building a case like that for myself a few years ago when I was thinking about building a rig, but then opted out over time as I became more "educated" on water cooling, other technologies and cases. Now I'm considering something like that for my kids.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Few pictures I found from about 9 years ago.
> 
> Pentium 4 3.06 HT socket 478 on an Abit apogee motherboard, my first venture into watercooling.
> Ordered the Res. and UV dye (useless) from the US and shipped to Ireland.
> 
> Don't laugh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> You won't get any laughs out of me... I thought about building a case like that for myself a few years ago when I was thinking about building a rig, but then opted out over time as I became more "educated" on water cooling, other technologies and cases. Now I'm considering something like that for my kids.
Click to expand...

I've got one up for grabs in Marketplace with PSU. Link is in Sig.









~Ceadder


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you have UV lights in your rig?


So it's up in the air whether or not my blocks will corrode, but I'm curious why you mentioned UV lights?


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomSG*










Green UV tubing







Awesome!!

My next rig will mos def have green uv tubes again


----------



## moutwtrng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think there was a thread started about EK's new block designs, but I saw some new photos this morning, thought I would share to see everyone's opinions. I'm not really digging them myself...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Colors


Looks like TARGET got involved in the design! LOL!









Buy one at your nearest local target stores!


----------



## SimpleTech

I like the frosted acrylic but I don't like the circle design. If they would remove that, I might buy one but it would have to be copper. Tired of their flaking issues.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey I'm right up the road from you. I saw your ad selling your rig. Nice rig by the way.


Thanks! I really need to get this thing sold... spread the word to friends


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think there was a thread started about EK's new block designs, but I saw some new photos this morning, thought I would share to see everyone's opinions. I'm not really digging them myself...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Colors


Do their designs come with that protrusion? If it does, I do want to applaud them finally integrating those links for their bridges. The bridge system is overtly complex and expensive. Even if this angled port system is detachable, if its standard, it will make bridging them a bit easy and less expensive. Somewhat reminiscent of what WaterCool does with their Heatkiller gpux blocks


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Thanks! I really need to get this thing sold... spread the word to friends


Sure will Buddy


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> *System Spec:*
> Cosmos II
> EVGA SR-X Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W 2011 CPU's
> EVGA GTX680 Hydro Copper GPU's
> Memory - Kingston HyperX 48GB
> SSD's - Kingston 120GB
> Coolermaster 1300w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU


That has got to be one of the cleanest looking rigs I've ever seen.


----------



## superericla

^^Sounds good.

Does anyone have any experience with XSPC Razor GPU water blocks?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> ^^Sounds good.
> Does anyone have any experience with XSPC Razor GPU water blocks?


Heatkiller ftw









edit: nvm, saw you ordered it already









They should perform pretty decent.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Heatkiller ftw


Heatkiller was very tempting. I liked the look of the XSPC block though so I went with it.


----------



## wermad

One thing about fullcover blocks, they depreciate a lot. Take a look at ebay and you'll see gtx 580 blocks under $50. I'm sure you can find a 6970 block for around the same. 6970s are around ~200-250 so I think $270 is a fair price.

XSPC blocks have been reviewed good, so i have no complaints.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One thing about fullcover blocks, they depreciate a lot. Take a look at ebay and you'll see gtx 580 blocks under $50. I'm sure you can find a 6970 block for around the same. 6970s are around ~200-250 so I think $270 is a fair price.
> XSPC blocks have been reviewed good, so i have no complaints.


That's how I figured the price.

Good to hear on the XSPC blocks, I'll know soon how good XSPC is at GPU blocks.


----------



## jcho285

I have a bottom 140 rad and a 360 on top. Currently they are both exhaust.
Would I see better temp drops if those are on intake?
I searched for a bit and couldn't find a definite answer anywhere.

Current temps on the GPUs are around 28C and when playing go as high as 42C.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> I have a bottom 140 rad and a 360 on top. Currently they are both exhaust.
> Would I see better temp drops if those are on intake?
> I searched for a bit and couldn't find a definite answer anywhere.
> Current temps on the GPUs are around 28C and when playing go as high as 42C.


You may get slightly lower temps. Don't expect more than 3-5C lower though.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> I have a bottom 140 rad and a 360 on top. Currently they are both exhaust.
> Would I see better temp drops if those are on intake?
> I searched for a bit and couldn't find a definite answer anywhere.
> Current temps on the GPUs are around 28C and when playing go as high as 42C.


Yeah you might see slightly lower temps but its up to whether a couple degrees ( at most id guess ) is worth all the dust a top intake is going to cause , at least have a filter on top if you do that or clean it pretty often , theres ongoing debates about positive pressure vs. negative but intakes on rads is always cooler for the watercooled components , only issue is an overly positive pressure case doesnt exhaust fast enough and the air has time to heat up inside the case and thus heat up air cooled components more than a negative pressure case , best advice is try it both ways and see what youre more comfortable with.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> *System Spec:*
> Cosmos II
> EVGA SR-X Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W 2011 CPU's
> EVGA GTX680 Hydro Copper GPU's
> Memory - Kingston HyperX 48GB
> SSD's - Kingston 120GB
> Coolermaster 1300w Silent Pro Hybrid PSU


That is a lot of hardware in there. Like all your builds it looks great but looks kinda simple compared to some of your other builds I've seen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey that EK 4.0 DC pump looks an aweful lot like my JingWay Technologies DP600P pump. Is there a manufacturer that makes them and other companies just relabel them. Like the laing pump? Still new to watrer cooling.


It's a DP-1200 I think, both the 4.0 and the DP-1200 are rated at 18watts. Off the top of my head Phobya, DD, and I think 2 others sell them. There is a smaller version, EK calls it the 2.0 and it might be the DP600P. I'm RMA'ing my 4.0 right now due to a bad impeller and the process was painless and very quick once they fixed their support site.


----------



## Lazy Bear

I really dig the Mayhem aurora fluid in that build, Coolmiester!


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> That is a lot of hardware in there. Like all your builds it looks great but looks kinda simple compared to some of your other builds I've seen.
> It's a DP-1200 I think, both the 4.0 and the DP-1200 are rated at 18watts. Off the top of my head Phobya, DD, and I think 2 others sell them. There is a smaller version, EK calls it the 2.0 and it might be the DP600P. I'm RMA'ing my 4.0 right now due to a bad impeller and the process was painless and very quick once they fixed their support site.


Yeah that's kinda what I was thinking just wasn't too sure. I bought my DP600P about a month ago and two days later I went back to the store and they had the DP1200. I was so upset but I already had mine running in my rig. So I figure for now it'll be good enough. My CPU temps don't go over 43-45 when gaming so I'm not to worried about it for now. I might end up swapping it out once I add the GPU's to the loop though. I'm sure that the GPU's will make the temps go up a good amount. We'll see if the 600 can handle them or not.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Few pics of my work in progress.

Overkill for my needs- Definetly
Driving my wife mad getting packages everyday- Absolutly
Keeping me sane- Jury's still out























Still a ways to go, Should be done in 2-3 days unless I decide to get a aquaero 5 setup to controll the fans.
Total of 30 120mm fans in this.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Few pics of my work in progress.
> Overkill for my needs- Definetly
> Driving my wife mad getting packages everyday- Absolutly
> Keeping me sane- Jury's still out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a ways to go, Should be done in 2-3 days unless I decide to get a aquaero 5 setup to controll the fans.
> Total of 30 120mm fans in this.


Sanity is relative... plead insanity...

But nice very nice, whats the case?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Thanks DarkHayZe
Its a custom mountain mods case

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Thanks DarkHayZe
> Its a custom mountain mods case
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2


Nice I thought it might be, how much did it cost.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Thanks DarkHayZe
> Its a custom mountain mods case
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Nice I thought it might be, how much did it cost.
Click to expand...

Well originally was going to be close to a grand shipped, but the psu mounting was configured backwards, and they didn't drill out several of the rad/fan screw holes ( problems overlooked during design). So they gave me a partial refund and it ended up costing me 600. They would have fixed everything for me, but that would have required sending panels back, re produce them with corrections, powdercoating. Too much time for me. I fixed it all my self and saved some money/time.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## wermad

Epic case Night


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Well originally was going to be close to a grand shipped, but the psu mounting was configured backwards, and they didn't drill out several of the rad/fan screw holes ( problems overlooked during design). So they gave me a partial refund and it ended up costing me 600. They would have fixed everything for me, but that would have required sending panels back, re produce them with corrections, powdercoating. Too much time for me. I fixed it all my self and saved some money/time.
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2


That was nice of them, mine with all the niceties will be around 650 750 or so


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Thanks DarkHayZe
> Its a custom mountain mods case
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Nice I thought it might be, how much did it cost.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well originally was going to be close to a grand shipped, but the psu mounting was configured backwards, and they didn't drill out several of the rad/fan screw holes ( problems overlooked during design). So they gave me a partial refund and it ended up costing me 600. They would have fixed everything for me, but that would have required sending panels back, re produce them with corrections, powdercoating. Too much time for me. I fixed it all my self and saved some money/time.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Wow you got more than I would have asked for. Glad it worked out for you.









~Ceadder


----------



## Oberon

I'll just leave this teaser pic here....


----------



## bomberjun

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oberon*
> 
> 
> I'll just leave this teaser pic here....






That switch 810 and a touch of carbon fiber looks awesome.


----------



## Oberon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> That switch 810 and a touch of carbon fiber looks awesome.


Thanks mate! Working on finishing up that watercooling build. Be sure to checkout my buildlog:thumb:


----------



## DarkHayZe

So I emailed Lamptron about their Lamptron touch and what temperature sensors are compatible and this is the response I got
Quote:


> Thanks for being our customer.
> 
> Pls try to buy temperature as following condition.
> 
> R25 degree celsius = 10kohm.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Pls leave your precious opinion in the following link,thank you.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1252478/lamptron-customer-support-feedback-thread
> 
> Best Wishes
> Lamptron Customer Service Team


Can someone help me decode this...lol


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> So I emailed Lamptron about their Lamptron touch and what temperature sensors are compatible and this is the response I got
> 
> Can someone help me decode this...lol


Hi Darkhayze, I have a lamptron touch and it came with the 6 wire temp sensors, each of the six fan connectors on the controller have a 2-pin for a temp sensor next to them, I'm pretty sure the water temp sensors I have seen have the same 2-pin config.

hth's


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Hi Darkhayze, I have a lamptron touch and it came with the 6 wire temp sensors, each of the six fan connectors on the controller have a 2-pin for a temp sensor next to them, I'm pretty sure the water temp sensors I have seen have the same 2-pin config.
> hth's


Thats not the problem, I dont understand what they meant by "R25 degree celsius = 10kohm."


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Thats not the problem, I dont understand what they meant by "R25 degree celsius = 10kohm."


Resistance of sensor is 10k Ohm when temperature is 25°C, I think most temperature sensors used with PC's are like that


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Resistance of sensor is 10k Ohm when temperature is 25°C, I think most temperature sensors used with PC's are like that


ahh ok, thank you

So these from bitspower should work Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
?


----------



## TomSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey that EK 4.0 DC pump looks an aweful lot like my JingWay Technologies DP600P pump. Is there a manufacturer that makes them and other companies just relabel them. Like the laing pump? Still new to watrer cooling.


Yeah, its just a complete rebrand. Jingway i'd assume is the OEM. I got the 4.0 becuase it was cheap, not odd looking, and supported g1/4 fittings straight out the box. Plenty of power too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread UPDATED.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> ahh ok, thank you
> So these from bitspower should work Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
> ?


I have one of the Lamptron ones in front of me mate and pins look exactly the same, you should have no problems at all.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I have one of the Lamptron ones in front of me mate and pins look exactly the same, you should have no problems at all.


I understand that the pins are fine, its the resistance and ohms and what not that I am not sure on


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomSG*
> 
> Yeah, its just a complete rebrand. Jingway i'd assume is the OEM. I got the 4.0 becuase it was cheap, not odd looking, and supported g1/4 fittings straight out the box. Plenty of power too.


My pump is the DP600P which I guess someone said is like a 2.0 But they look exactly alike on the outside. And it also supported g 1/4 fitting out the box. I like it nice and quiet and like I said before cools my rig just fine. Hopefully it'll be enough once I add the two GPU water blocks. If not I guess I'll be picking up a DP1200


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I understand that the pins are fine, its the resistance and ohms and what not that I am not sure on


My bad, cant see why it would matter tbh, the bitspower ones are probably the same just wrapped in a G1/4 fitting.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> My bad, cant see why it would matter tbh, the bitspower ones are probably the same just wrapped in a G1/4 fitting.


I just remember reading somewhere that you dont want to mix the resistance and ohms or something like that between the sensor and the panel


----------



## Krahe

np, I'm trying to find the spec sheet that came with my Lamptron for ya but having no luck, I'm a messy bugger


----------



## chino1974

Ok guys I'm on another mission today but before I get started I have a few questions for the water cooling gurus here.







I am going to have to wait alil while before I can get the water blocks for my GPU's. But I have a bracket that DWood made for me and an H50 to use with it for at least one card. My question is if I take apart the H50 and add it to my loop on the hottest GPU using reducers for the lines. Will the drop in size of lines work against my existing loop? Also I was going to hook up the H50 to run it's own pump of course so hopefully that will help the flow at least alil bit. And while I'm asking I already have a 240 and 120 radiator in my loop. Should I use the extra 120 rad from the H50? or will the restrict flow being that it's fittings are 1/4 also? Like always any help with these questions will be very greatly apreciated.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I plan on getting the Lamptron Touch fan controller as well. Where do you guys mount all of your temp sensors? Does it really matter or are there specific areas of the loop that you need to monitor? Thanks!


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> np, I'm trying to find the spec sheet that came with my Lamptron for ya but having no luck, I'm a messy bugger


I have the resistance and ohms for the Touch, according to some CS that barely speaks English.... according to him/her it was R25 Celsius = 10kOhm... I was more wondering what the Bitspower sensors stats are and if its not compatible what ones should I buy.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I plan on getting the Lamptron Touch fan controller as well. Where do you guys mount all of your temp sensors? Does it really matter or are there specific areas of the loop that you need to monitor? Thanks!


I'm only using 3 sensors, 1 taped to the side of my pump, 1 for inside case temp and the third hanging out the back for room temp. The only down side to the touch is it can be a bit fiddly on manual setting the slider to % you want, I keep meaning to by a stylus but at the moment am using a toothpick.

@darkhayze, no worries, I'm sure its fine, bitspower make them to hook up to fan controllers and the Lamptron one is rated pretty high @ 30w per channel.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I plan on getting the Lamptron Touch fan controller as well. Where do you guys mount all of your temp sensors? Does it really matter or are there specific areas of the loop that you need to monitor? Thanks!


I plan on putting one out the out for my res, and one on the outlet of my first rad, inbetween rad and the drain valve.


Spoiler: My Planned Loop








The schematics dont have them listed on there, but you should have an idea from my description of where I said i was putting them


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I'm only using 3 sensors, 1 taped to the side of my pump, 1 for inside case temp and the third hanging out the back for room temp. The only down side to the touch is it can be a bit fiddly on manual setting the slider to % you want, I keep meaning to by a stylus but at the moment am using a toothpick.


So the sensors that come with it are sensitive enough to detect the ambient air temps?


----------



## Krahe

They seem pretty accurate to me, I always have hardware monitor showing on a second screen and can tell from that what the FC will show and the outside one matches a barometer temp display that the wife has in the next room and this room is always marginally warmer when I'm folding


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> They seem pretty accurate to me, I always have hardware monitor showing on a second screen and can tell from that what the FC will show and the outside one matches a barometer temp display that the wife has in the next room and this room is always marginally warmer when I'm folding


Good to know they wont just be sitting in a drawer somewhere then...lol will probably only use 2 though inside and out, in addition to the coolant sensors that is


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Ok guys I'm on another mission today but before I get started I have a few questions for the water cooling gurus here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to have to wait alil while before I can get the water blocks for my GPU's. But I have a bracket that DWood made for me and an H50 to use with it for at least one card. My question is if I take apart the H50 and add it to my loop on the hottest GPU using reducers for the lines. Will the drop in size of lines work against my existing loop? Also I was going to hook up the H50 to run it's own pump of course so hopefully that will help the flow at least alil bit. And while I'm asking I already have a 240 and 120 radiator in my loop. Should I use the extra 120 rad from the H50? or will the restrict flow being that it's fittings are 1/4 also? Like always any help with these questions will be very greatly apreciated.


If it was me, I would leave the cards the way they are (air cooled), until you get the blocks for them.

What you are suggesting there, sounds very jimmy rigged and asking for trouble.

Use the H50 on its own, on the hottest card if you want, but don't try to add it into a custom loop.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> If it was me, I would leave the cards the way they are (air cooled), until you get the blocks for them.
> 
> What you are suggesting there, sounds very jimmy rigged and asking for trouble.
> Use the H50 on its own, on the hottest card if you want, but don't try to add it into a custom loop.


^THis...lol

I agree, while I am still an newb here, this sounds like the better option, it would be its own loop and subject to its own cooling


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> If it was me, I would leave the cards the way they are (air cooled), until you get the blocks for them.
> 
> What you are suggesting there, sounds very jimmy rigged and asking for trouble.
> Use the H50 on its own, on the hottest card if you want, but don't try to add it into a custom loop.


I hear what your saying. But if I did do it it would by no means be "jimmy rigged" I was just asking cause I have seen a few people change out the hosing on the closed loop coolers and was wondering if that can be done to move the rads whereever you want why cant you just add it to your loop? And if I did use it on my GPU i would have to change out the hoses anyways because it wont fit the way it comes stock. And once you drain it to change the hoses you have to use a reservoir to fill it properly again. That was another reason why I thought just add to my loop so I don't have to add another res also.


----------



## wermad

The H50/Khuler mod for a gpu has been done quite a few times that I really don't see it as a "micky-mouse" or "jerry-rigged" solution. Its been done well enough that it looks very clean and almost oem in some cases. I wouldn't use the stock pump/block to run a complex loop but it don't hurt to run a couple of them in series to cool your gpu(s) and cpu. Just don't expect top notch performance and make sure there's plenty of air flow to the gpu (for the vram and vrm).


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The H50/Khuler mod for a gpu has been done quite a few times that I really don't see it as a "micky-mouse" or "jerry-rigged" solution. Its been done well enough that it looks very clean and almost oem in some cases. I would use the stock pump/block to run a complex loop but it don't hurt to run a couple of them in series to cool your gpu(s) and cpu. Just don't expect top notch performance and make sure there's plenty of air flow to the gpu (for the vram and vrm).


That's what I was talking about doing. A nice clean instal. I already have tons of reducers for the hosing and actually have some 1/4 compressions to use. I was just wondering if adding those 1/4 hoses to my loop would reduce the flow rate of my loop enough to be a problem. I've seen a few very nicely done H50/Khuler conversion and I thought at least till I get the water block why not? Wermad do you think I should have the pump on the H50 plugged in so it helps the main pump? Or should I just use it as a water block? I'm thinking more of having it running to help. But I by no means am a water cooling expert at least not yet?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

And I'm in just in the nick of time to avoid the crop circles!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> That's what I was talking about doing. A nice clean instal. I already have tons of reducers for the hosing and actually have some 1/4 compressions to use. I was just wondering if adding those 1/4 hoses to my loop would reduce the flow rate of my loop enough to be a problem. I've seen a few very nicely done H50/Khuler conversion and I thought at least till I get the water block why not? Wermad do you think I should have the pump on the H50 plugged in so it helps the main pump? Or should I just use it as a water block? I'm thinking more of having it running to help. But I by no means am a water cooling expert at least not yet?


What are you running for your cpu loop? I would at most just link two H50s for example to run both gpu for now. Unless you can find these H50s for cheap, you might be able to get universal gpu blocks for them and plumb that to your loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> And I'm in just in the nick of time to avoid the crop circles!










, yeah, I'm not a fan of the bubble design too


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The H50/Khuler mod for a gpu has been done quite a few times that I really don't see it as a "micky-mouse" or "jerry-rigged" solution. Its been done well enough that it looks very clean and almost oem in some cases. I wouldn't use the stock pump/block to run a complex loop but it don't hurt to run a couple of them in series to cool your gpu(s) and cpu. Just don't expect top notch performance and make sure there's plenty of air flow to the gpu (for the vram and vrm).


 I wasn't saying the H50 fitted to a GPU was jerry-rigged , I was referring to adding the H50 pump and rad into the custom loop.

"My question is if I take apart the H50 and add it to my loop on the hottest GPU using reducers for the lines. Will the drop in size of lines work against my existing loop? Also I was going to hook up the H50 to run it's own pump of course so hopefully that will help the flow at least alil bit. And while I'm asking I already have a 240 and 120 radiator in my loop. Should I use the extra 120 rad from the H50?"


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I wasn't saying the H50 fitted to a GPU was jerry-rigged , I was referring to adding the H50 pump and rad into the custom loop.
> 
> "My question is if I take apart the H50 and add it to my loop on the hottest GPU using reducers for the lines. Will the drop in size of lines work against my existing loop? Also I was going to hook up the H50 to run it's own pump of course so hopefully that will help the flow at least alil bit. And while I'm asking I already have a 240 and 120 radiator in my loop. Should I use the extra 120 rad from the H50?"


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I wouldn't use the stock pump/block to run a complex loop...


I wouldn't plumb the H50 block/pump in a custom loop. Its adding too much restriction especially when you're reducing the tube id. I would just run the h50 on its own until "chino1974" can plumb his gpu to his custom loop. I'm sure you can run three H50s in series to cool the cpu>gpu>gpu but I prefer a custom loop even if its with uni gpu blocks.


----------



## chino1974

Wermad my loop consists of the following parts.

Jingway DP600p pump,swiftech micro-res,larkooler 240 rad,larkooler chrome cpu block,swiftech 120 rad,primochill black 3/8 i.d. 5/8 o.d. tubing,Monsoon Red compression fittings,2x D.D. fillports(1 for filler&1 for drain,bitspower90 degree swivel fitting,bitspower ball joint valve for drain Here's a pic of my set-up to give you and idea.


I know anything to post a pic








I'm definitely going to be getting a set of universal water blocks for them but it's not going to be for alil while. And I already have an H50 and bracket from DWood here painted and ready to go not doing anything. So I figured at least till I get the blocks add it to the hotest of the two cards.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Wermad my loop consists of the following parts.
> Jingway DP600p pump,swiftech micro-res,larkooler 240 rad,larkooler chrome cpu block,swiftech 120 rad,primochill black 3/8 i.d. 5/8 o.d. tubing,Monsoon Red compression fittings,2x D.D. fillports(1 for filler&1 for drain,bitspower90 degree swivel fitting,bitspower ball joint valve for drain Here's a pic of my set-up to give you and idea.
> 
> I know anything to post a pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm definitely going to be getting a set of universal water blocks for them but it's not going to be for alil while. And I already have an H50 and bracket from DWood here painted and ready to go not doing anything. So I figured at least till I get the blocks add it to the hotest of the two cards.


Are both running the "turbine" cooler? I can see the top one is but I can't tell for the 2nd gpu,


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I wouldn't plumb the H50 block/pump in a custom loop. Its adding too much restriction especially when you're reducing the tube id. I would just run the h50 on its own until "chino1974" can plumb his gpu to his custom loop. I'm sure you can run three H50s in series to cool the cpu>gpu>gpu but I prefer a custom loop even if its with uni gpu blocks.


Ok That's what I was trying to find out. Thank You very much Wermad. I knew reducing the id to add the pump/block from the H50 was going to restrict the system. Just didn't know if it would do it enough to warrant not adding it to the loop. I guess I'll try to figure out how to dd the H50 on it's own without having to add a extra res. If not I'll go with the air cooling till I can get the uni blocks. Again Thank You Very Much Wermad


----------



## chino1974

No sadly the bottom GPU is a Non-Reference card. They're both XFX but ones Reference the other is the newer model that has the fan in the middle of card. That one is the reason I want to add them to the loop so badly. It sounds like an airplane taking off when I game.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> No sadly the bottom GPU is a Non-Reference card. They're both XFX but ones Reference the other is the newer model that has the fan in the middle of card. That one is the reason I want to add them to the loop so badly. It sounds like an airplane taking off when I game.


The non-reference is a bit more straightforward in modding to accommodate the H50 but you have to supplement it with more air flow as you take out the fan. The reference will provide you with a better cooling solution but you have to modify the stock cooler's shroud to fit the H50. With the reference, you keep the turbine fan at the end and thus have a supply of air flow to the vrm and vram. I would mod the reference and try to add additional cooling/airflow to the non-reference. Ultimately, if you plan on upgrading in the future, tough it out and don't touch them. Add a larger fan or several fans to help cool the gpus and lower the fan speed to reduce the stock cooler's noise level. I'm kinda surprised you say the non-reference is louder where in fact it was designed to be less noisy that the 747-at-take-off reference turbine cooler.


----------



## chino1974

Yeah a few people have told me the same thing. But for some reason the Reference one is alot quieter. Maybe it's because I replaced the stock TIM with Artic Silver TIM? I have some left that I wanted to use when I got the uni water blocks for the two of them. But I might just use some now on the Non-Reference card and see if it helps. Also the Non-Ref card is brand new (2 weeks old) so you would think the older reference card would be louder but it's not. I'm not sure if you can see it in the pic I sent but I just added a 140mm NZXT fan in btween the front 120 rad and the GPU's to blow alil more air onto the cards.


----------



## chino1974

Honestly I'm sure alot of my wanting to do something is more just me and my OCD







Because after I added the 140 fan my GPU's temps went from 79-82 to the high 60's like 68 ish while gaming. And the GPU's fans actually spool up about half as much as they used to now also. It's just me looking for an excuse to tear into my rig. I'm always trying to find a reason to have it on it's side panels off doing something







I think I just need to be patient and wait till I can get the water blocks. And stop worrying so much about this rig because I already have another one in the works. I'm going to be doing a Switch 810 build. I originally was thinking of doing a Patriotich theme. But both my in-laws have stage 4 cancer one breast and lung the other prostate. So I was thinking of maybe changing the theme to a Pink Switch 810 for the breast cancer foundation. Not sure yet though. Still trying to get input before I make my final decision on that one. What do you think?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## skitzab1

almost done guys cant wait till im finished moving so i can go back to getting jobs done faster


----------



## protzman

ugly imo

EDIT: to the blocks hahaha your post of your computer wasn't there when I started my comment


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ugly imo
> EDIT: to the blocks hahaha your post of your computer wasn't there when I started my comment


I don't know I kind of like them but would like to know how they will manage the paralization before and after the GPU...

If only ther was a 680 version i may just need to find an excuse to upgrade


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ugly imo
> EDIT: to the blocks hahaha your post of your computer wasn't there when I started my comment


lolz yer im making a top-plate to the cpu block..

that is just temp untill i finish the mounting plate









ow the gpu blocks







have to see them on a card to decide if ugly or not ???????


----------



## protzman

no I want sayin ur comp was ugly I meant those acool blocks someone posted above your post







sorry for confusion


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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How do the VRM's hold up under heavy loads ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A little more progress today...


----------



## mironccr345

^^ That looks beast! Have you tested the Corsair fans out and are they the low or high rpm version?


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A little more progress today...


sexy red dem fans dem fans


----------



## zdude

Well can i get some help over here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1269499/water-cooled-by-water-question#post_17474837
got a few questions not sure how to answer them and figured to ask here too

Water cooling water (cooling my PC with water from the well)


----------



## simonfredette

I really want to try the rotary or 90 degree fittings that have the LED insert on one end , just to see what effect you get shining a UV light directly into your tubing with Uv reactive tubing obviously , just to see if it makes a nice enough job to be worth the extra $ , does anyone here use them and if so which brand did you use ?


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I really want to try the rotary or 90 degree fittings that have the LED insert on one end , just to see what effect you get shining a UV light directly into your tubing with Uv reactive tubing obviously , just to see if it makes a nice enough job to be worth the extra $ , does anyone here use them and if so which brand did you use ?


this seems very intriguing, in for an answer


----------



## kcuestag

After running my loop with distilled water only for about 3 weeks, I dropped 1 drop of Mayhems Biocide (http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p12391_Mayhems-Biocide-10ml.html) into my reservoir, all of the water in my loop became a bit blurry (or dirty, with a cloudy effect).

Is it normal? Can it harm my loop?

The water in the reservoir looked completely clean before adding that drop of biocide.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> After running my loop with distilled water only for about 3 weeks, I dropped 1 drop of Mayhems Biocide (http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p12391_Mayhems-Biocide-10ml.html) into my reservoir, all of the water in my loop became a bit blurry (or dirty, with a cloudy effect).
> Is it normal? Can it harm my loop?
> The water in the reservoir looked completely clean before adding that drop of biocide.


That's strange. Could you take a picture to show exactly what happened?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> That's strange. Could you take a picture to show exactly what happened?


Sure, here:



You can see the water is not clear/clean.


----------



## superericla

That's... interesting. Just to check, you did flush your radiator very thoroughly before using it correct?


----------



## kcuestag

Yes, like I said everything was clean (And the water looked very clear) until I dropped the mayhems biocide.

I guess I'll leave it as it is since I wil be moving to a new house in 2 weeks, so I don't want to mess with it twice in 2 weeks.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yes, like I said everything was clean (And the water looked very clear) until I dropped the mayhems biocide.
> I guess I'll leave it as it is since I wil be moving to a new house in 2 weeks, so I don't want to mess with it twice in 2 weeks.


I suggest either emailing or sending Mayhem a PM to let him know about your issue. He could likely help you straighten it out.


----------



## Flygye

Here's mine rig


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I suggest either emailing or sending Mayhem a PM to let him know about your issue. He could likely help you straighten it out.


Yeah, I sent Mayhem a PM.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah, I sent Mayhem a PM.


Let us know the result Kcuestag, I'm using a drop of Mayhems biocide and my water is crystal clear so am interested in what caused this, good luck hope you resolve it soon.


----------



## Mayhem

We have talked to kcuestag and it seems he may have not flushed the water cooling loop out or they may be a reaction to flux in the loop. kcuestag Says he has the new biocide which comes with a PH test Kit and will need to check his PH levels with the kit how ever if the system has not been flushed correctly and still has old liquids in the new biocide can react with it and cause this misting effect.

The instruction card that comes with the new biocide tells you every thing you need to know and how to do it all.










If a user does have the old Style biocide and does have problems all they need to do is contact me (PM will do) with a photo of the old biocide and a pic of there problem and we will replace it with the new kit and biocide "Free of charge" ...

_A cautionary note : Mayhems and Mayhems staff are not mind readers and we do not read every single post on the internet. If you have "Any" problems with any of our products contact us first so we can help you out. If you just post on forums and not contact us we cannot help you and we cannot resolve any issue you may have come across. Many people have different ideas for issues and a lot of the time this information is incorrect. Our support is there to work with you the user and to assist in any way we can please use it accordingly._


----------



## phillyd

my build







, build logs in the sig


----------



## golfergolfer

^I love your rig so much







and that little stand in the last pic


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Who made your backplate



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , build logs in the sig


----------



## stainlineho




----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Probably dwood.


----------



## mironccr345

^ If so, How do I contact that person?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^ If so, How do I contact that person?


PM?


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> _A cautionary note : *Mayhems and Mayhems staff are not mind readers* and we do not read every single post on the internet. If you have "Any" problems with any of our products contact us first so we can help you out. If you just post on forums and not contact us we cannot help you and we cannot resolve any issue you may have come across. Many people have different ideas for issues and a lot of the time this information is incorrect. Our support is there to work with you the user and to assist in any way we can please use it accordingly._


What? Really? Oh this is suboptimal... Time to boycott...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> What? Really? Oh this is suboptimal... Time to boycott...


Not every company has personal assisting in the multitude of threads in every forum site and those that are, its a great gesture of customer service and commitment For any problems, all companies have a direct path to their support. You should appreciate that there are reps that participate around here to help with their products. Few companies do this at all







.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> ^I love your rig so much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and that little stand in the last pic


thanks








and i only got it because i need it, but it looks kinda cool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Who made your backplate
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , build logs in the sig
Click to expand...

Dwood
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably dwood.
Click to expand...

correct
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^ If so, How do I contact that person?


PM or here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1237219


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Mayhems is what I'll be using for my very first water cooled build. I've just heard too many good things about their coolants and dyes...


----------



## simonfredette

Hey , once again I need your help and experience , I would really like to WC my motherboard , I have the CPU block but I would really like to cool the rest of the board , my motherboard is a gigabyte
http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_342&item_id=028490

The block I am looking at is an xspc x58 block that covers the north , south bridges and vregs ..
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/chipset-waterblocks/dfi-ut-x58/

I just dont know if theres more to it than just having an X58, finally any idea where I could find one ? I know theyre kinda outdated


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am a RRT regular,we used to be EK 'fans' but the CS fiasco ruined it for EK...not so much the flaking issue so much as the way they handled it....then Ek demanding 10k from sidewinders for selling the block which rubidium tested sealed their fate....
> I also run DI and a kill coil,just drained my loop to test Mayhems Chameleon...no plasticizer issues and the water,although didn't smell fresh,was clear and clean


What is this business about EK fining sidewinder?


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not every company has personal assisting in the multitude of threads in every forum site and those that are, its a great gesture of customer service and commitment For any problems, all companies have a direct path to their support. You should appreciate that there are reps that participate around here to help with their products. Few companies do this at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Seems I fail at sarcasm once again. Maybe I should offer to donate that section of my parietal lobe to science and see if they can find the defect.


----------



## Rognin

Hey... another update. Almost finished!!!!

Tried to get some money shots with my crap cam by using some lighting. I think it worked a little. ...


----------



## wermad

^^^^^^^^^^^^^Wow Rognin, that's is truly amazing mate! You going for Motm?!?!?!?!?

edit: look for some silver/gray carbon fiber vinyl film and slap some on the sli bridge.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Seems I fail at sarcasm once again. Maybe I should offer to donate that section of my parietal lobe to science and see if they can find the defect.


hahaha, same here, so I just don't try sometimes







Could it be age? Or the surplus of ozone our rigs generate









Yeah, sorry, didn't mean to point you out or something but just wanted to convey out in general to all























I'm picking up new mb with a mb block. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm......unnecessary water cooling







. Time to find some Doms and slap on a water block


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^Wow Rognin, that's is truly amazing mate! You going for Motm?!?!?!?!?
> edit: look for some silver/gray carbon fiber vinyl film and slap some on the sli bridge.


I don't have a chance in that, some of those mods are way past this. This looks classy and simple. Something I won't really get tired of looking at or trying to make better.

Thanks Wermad, does mean something coming from you!









I'll look into that for sure!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Looks quite slick







how does the tubing sleeve fit into the compression fitting? Pain to get on? I had originally thought about doing that with my build, but one thing led to another and there just happened to be bigger fish to fry


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> I don't have a chance in that, some of those mods are way past this. This looks classy and simple. Something I won't really get tired of looking at or trying to make better.
> 
> Thanks Wermad, does mean something coming from you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll look into that for sure!


nominated.... oops!


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Looks quite slick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how does the tubing sleeve fit into the compression fitting? Pain to get on? I had originally thought about doing that with my build, but one thing led to another and there just happened to be bigger fish to fry


Thanks man!

Dremel and patience. Grinding the inside of the compression fitting's ring a little bit and trying to screw it back on with the sleeving is more than testing. I was scare about the sleeving flaring because of the compression twist motion to screw them in; I'd invisioned the worst results in the beginning of the sleeving job. Turned out nice though, and I'm real happy about it! =D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> nominated.... oops!


I can still refuse... =P

But thank you, it is appreciated!


----------



## spud84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Hey , once again I need your help and experience , I would really like to WC my motherboard , I have the CPU block but I would really like to cool the rest of the board , my motherboard is a gigabyte
> http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_342&item_id=028490
> The block I am looking at is an xspc x58 block that covers the north , south bridges and vregs ..
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/chipset-waterblocks/dfi-ut-x58/
> I just dont know if theres more to it than just having an X58, finally any idea where I could find one ? I know theyre kinda outdated


Woah! don't buy that! That is for a DFI motherboard and won't fit on the GB x58a-UD3R

I've got the same mobo and have cooled it, it was a mission and a half to source the parts needed (especially here in Australia) and install it all as you need separate chipset, and mosfet blocks.

PM me if you want more info?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spud84*
> 
> Woah! don't buy that! That is for a DFI motherboard and won't fit on the GB x58a-UD3R
> I've got the same mobo and have cooled it, it was a mission and a half to source the parts needed (especially here in Australia) and install it all as you need separate chipset, and mosfet blocks.
> PM me if you want more info?


This. Most fulcover mb blocks are specific to certain models (and certai revisions of those models sometimes). If you can't find one, as Spud84 said, look for universal blocks. There are quite a few of them that can give you a cooling solution for your mb.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Seems I fail at sarcasm once again. Maybe I should offer to donate that section of my parietal lobe to science and see if they can find the defect.


Naa, I got it straight away, thought it was very clear.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have talked to kcuestag and it seems he may have not flushed the water cooling loop out or they may be a reaction to flux in the loop. kcuestag Says he has the new biocide which comes with a PH test Kit and will need to check his PH levels with the kit how ever if the system has not been flushed correctly and still has old liquids in the new biocide can react with it and cause this misting effect.
> The instruction card that comes with the new biocide tells you every thing you need to know and how to do it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If a user does have the old Style biocide and does have problems all they need to do is contact me (PM will do) with a photo of the old biocide and a pic of there problem and we will replace it with the new kit and biocide "Free of charge" ...
> _A cautionary note : Mayhems and Mayhems staff are not mind readers and we do not read every single post on the internet. If you have "Any" problems with any of our products contact us first so we can help you out. If you just post on forums and not contact us we cannot help you and we cannot resolve any issue you may have come across. Many people have different ideas for issues and a lot of the time this information is incorrect. Our support is there to work with you the user and to assist in any way we can please use it accordingly._


After measuring the PH, it looks like it is at the perfect color, the PH is sitting at 7.









Will it be OK to leave it with that "cloudy" water since the PH is perfect?

I will only be running it like this for a week and half or two at most since I'm moving to a new house, then I'll make sure I clean everything before filling it again.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Alright OCN, got a quick WC question...currently I run a RS360 rad from XSPC with fans in push pull. This cools my i7 920 @ 4.01ghz. I recently bought an EVGA GTX 670 FTW and would like to get a block for it...which means I need another rad. Would a solid 120 do the job? Maybe a Black ice extreme or XSPC ES? What do you guys think?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Hey... another update. Almost finished!!!!
> Tried to get some money shots with my crap cam by using some lighting. I think it worked a little. ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Sleeved Tubing!


Wow that sleeved tubing is nuts...the more I see people do it, the more I wanna try it myself.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow that sleeved tubing is nuts...the more I see people do it, the more I wanna try it myself.


+1


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Alright OCN, got a quick WC question...currently I run a RS360 rad from XSPC with fans in push pull. This cools my i7 920 @ 4.01ghz. I recently bought an EVGA GTX 670 FTW and would like to get a block for it...which means I need another rad. Would a solid 120 do the job? Maybe a Black ice extreme or XSPC ES? What do you guys think?


Depends on the speed of fan you'll be using and what radiator you plan to add.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Alright OCN, got a quick WC question...currently I run a RS360 rad from XSPC with fans in push pull. This cools my i7 920 @ 4.01ghz. I recently bought an EVGA GTX 670 FTW and would like to get a block for it...which means I need another rad. Would a solid 120 do the job? Maybe a Black ice extreme or XSPC ES? What do you guys think?


Adding a 120 when already using a 360, you're not going to notice much of a difference at all. If that 360 is only cooling the 920 right now, adding a single 670 to the loop won't effect temps much at all. If you do feel the need to add another rad, try and make it a 240? But still that RS360 should do fine with just a CPU and a single GPU.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Alright OCN, got a quick WC question...currently I run a RS360 rad from XSPC with fans in push pull. This cools my i7 920 @ 4.01ghz. I recently bought an EVGA GTX 670 FTW and would like to get a block for it...which means I need another rad. Would a solid 120 do the job? Maybe a Black ice extreme or XSPC ES? What do you guys think?


try adding the gpu to the current loop, see if the temps are acceptable and go from there.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> I don't have a chance in that, some of those mods are way past this. This looks classy and simple. Something I won't really get tired of looking at or trying to make better.
> Thanks Wermad, does mean something coming from you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll look into that for sure!


Nothing classy and simple about it. Stainless steel sleeving screams "I'm a sex machine."

Or maybe I just work with too much heavy equipment....

Aren't you worried that one of your hoses could kink inside the sleeving and you wouldn't notice because it's so stiff that it wouldn't show on the outside?


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Depends on the speed of fan you'll be using and what radiator you plan to add.


Thanks for everyone's responses. Right now at idle I run at about 39c. At load nothing over 55c. Also, I run 6 cougar vortex's at about 1000 rpm under normal use. You guys are awesome!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Thanks for everyone's responses. Right now at idle I run at about 39c. At load nothing over 55c. Also, I run 6 cougar vortex's at about 1000 rpm under normal use. You guys are awesome!


when you add the 670 look to see a few degree jump, such as like 60 load since you are pretty much doubling the heat the rad needs to dissipate. If you add a 120 of similar fan and rad you should only see a minor bump up in temps (like 3c) instead of around 5. 670s run cool, but not that cool.


----------



## kcuestag

Problem solved, the water is clean again.

Looks like I just had to wait more time for the biocide to mix properly with the water, the water is now crystal clear!


----------



## Onions

check out my log guys new updates: http://www.overclock.net/t/1215219/project-lan-update-june-14/0_100


----------



## Mayhem

@kcuestag you will be fine but as soon as you can flush the system out and replace with new water.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Alright OCN, got a quick WC question...currently I run a RS360 rad from XSPC with fans in push pull. This cools my i7 920 @ 4.01ghz. I recently bought an EVGA GTX 670 FTW and would like to get a block for it...which means I need another rad. Would a solid 120 do the job? Maybe a Black ice extreme or XSPC ES? What do you guys think?


I wouldn't say you need another radiator. A 360mm radiator is enough for an overclocked CPU and a single GPU. But if you want lower temps, delta, etc. a single 120mm supplement would be plenty.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Hey... another update. Almost finished!!!!
> Tried to get some money shots with my crap cam by using some lighting. I think it worked a little. ...


Being in the automotive industry and also a custom automotive enthusiast myself, I have to say that I am thoroughly impressed.

I'm curious to know how you've managed to marry the steel braided mesh to the compression fittings. Steel mesh can be a PITA to work with, if not impossible, if the ends are frayed.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Hey... another update. Almost finished!!!!
> Tried to get some money shots with my crap cam by using some lighting. I think it worked a little. ...


This is so awesome, I have been thinking about doing something similar when I build my loop.


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Hey... another update. Almost finished!!!!
> Tried to get some money shots with my crap cam by using some lighting. I think it worked a little. ...






All I can say is Beautiful Job my friend. I wish I had half your skills


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Rognin

Jee thanks guys!









The sleeving was a real PITA to work with. I had to take a lot of time not to fray the ends, and fit the compression rings over the tubes. I'd say I put in a good 12 hours of labor just for the tubes. But all that work paid off!!









Thanks again for the nice comments, I really appreciate it!

Edit: To add to the installation of the sleeving. I bought 4 meters of it, I had to start 3 tubes over because they frayed in the ends which has left me with a foot and a half left over (a little tight on spare sleevinging to my liking). When you screw the compression fitting it twists the end of the braided sleeving, which made it fray. The best way I found to get them on was to bring the compression fitting ring close to the edge and screw the actual fitting in the tube with the ring so that it wouldn't move the sleeving. I dunno if you guys quite understand that explanation. I could take pics tonight on the technique I used, if anyone really cares on how I did it.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Jee thanks guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sleeving was a real PITA to work with. I had to take a lot of time not to fray the ends, and fit the compression rings over the tubes. I'd say I put in a good 12 hours of labor just for the tubes. But all that work paid off!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the nice comments, I really appreciate it!
> 
> Edit: To add to the installation of the sleeving. I bought 4 meters of it, I had to start 3 tubes over because they frayed in the ends which has left me with a foot and a half left over (a little tight on spare sleevinging to my liking). When you screw the compression fitting it twists the end of the braided sleeving, which made it fray. The best way I found to get them on was to bring the compression fitting ring close to the edge and screw the actual fitting in the tube with the ring so that it wouldn't move the sleeving. I dunno if you guys quite understand that explanation. I could take pics tonight on the technique I used, if anyone really cares on how I did it.


Hell yea we care. Great work man, would definitely like a bunch of photos


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stainlineho*
> 
> 
> Cool. My white Switch should be here tomorrow.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Hey... another update. Almost finished!!!!
> 
> Tried to get some money shots with my crap cam by using some lighting. I think it worked a little. ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, I wouldn't worry about your "crappy" shots. That thing looks awesome with the Spectre hose sleeving.









Although I might have gone with Black Compression fitings on the Nickel angles.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Alright OCN, got a quick WC question...currently I run a RS360 rad from XSPC with fans in push pull. This cools my i7 920 @ 4.01ghz. I recently bought an EVGA GTX 670 FTW and would like to get a block for it...which means I need another rad. Would a solid 120 do the job? Maybe a Black ice extreme or XSPC ES? What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> Adding a 120 when already using a 360, you're not going to notice much of a difference at all. If that 360 is only cooling the 920 right now, adding a single 670 to the loop won't effect temps much at all. If you do feel the need to add another rad, try and make it a 240? But still that RS360 should do fine with just a CPU and a single GPU.
Click to expand...

He may not notice a difference but his CPU will be happier for it. My NB temp dumps right into the flow chamber of my CPU block. I'm pretty sure if I added a 670 into the loop and didn't add a Radiator between it and the NB, that the temperature of my CPU would increase slightly. It may not be a lot but it would be noticeable imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rognin

Well, I'm in the MOTM contest. Lets see how it pans out, but I won't hold my breath on a win though. Some of those build look awesome!

I wasn't sure on the fitting color, but I thought since I used chrome ones for everything else, I stick it out with the same colors with the angles ones.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Well, I'm in the MOTM contest. Lets see how it pans out, but I won't hold my breath on a win though. Some of those build look awesome!
> 
> I wasn't sure on the fitting color, but I thought since I used chrome ones for everything else, I stick it out with the same colors with the angles ones.


I think they fit the build perfectly


----------



## wermad

Told ya


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Well, I'm in the MOTM contest. Lets see how it pans out, but I won't hold my breath on a win though. Some of those build look awesome!
> 
> I wasn't sure on the fitting color, but I thought since I used chrome ones for everything else, I stick it out with the same colors with the angles ones.
> 
> 
> 
> I think they fit the build perfectly
Click to expand...

They DO look good. I hope what I said wasn't taken as criticism, because it wasn't meant as such.









Off topic, Awesom Avvy Good Ink!









~Ceadder


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Well, I'm in the MOTM contest. Lets see how it pans out, but I won't hold my breath on a win though. Some of those build look awesome!
> 
> I wasn't sure on the fitting color, but I thought since I used chrome ones for everything else, I stick it out with the same colors with the angles ones.
> 
> 
> 
> I think they fit the build perfectly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They DO look good. I hope what I said wasn't taken as criticism, because it wasn't meant as such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off topic, Awesom Avvy Good Ink!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Thanks Darkstar made it for me over in the CMSSC, he's got skills


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got 3 EVGA 670 FTWs coming over the weekend, along with 3 watercool hk blocks (Ni-black) and backplates....busy week ahead for me....


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Told ya


Thanks Wermad!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They DO look good. I hope what I said wasn't taken as criticism, because it wasn't meant as such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off topic, Awesom Avvy Good Ink!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No worries, I took it as creative critisism.


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah twisting sleeving seems to be a common issue with sleeving tubes , so far from what ive read a really popular trick is to back-twist the sleeving before screwing it on, turn the compression fitting counterclockwise about a quarter turn so the sleeving is twisted the wrong way then mate with the threads and screw it on , that way you get a free quarter turn before it starts twisting clockwise .. Hard to explain but it gives you a slight edge.


----------



## freitz

Upgrade loop with new RAD (Alphacool 30T 240) Great rad for the size on pace with my 55mm EK that was in push pull.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Upgrade loop with new RAD (Alphacool 30T 240) Great rad for the size on pace with my 55mm EK that was in push pull.


Wow factor! I like your setups & rig's cable management is neat!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Danger Den really needs to stop making blocks that look like penis.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danger Den really needs to stop making blocks that look like penis.
Click to expand...

Agreed, just a fugly block. I would take crop circles over that :/


----------



## Ceadderman

It may be fugly but at least it seals the flow chamber divider better than what EK blocks do.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It may be fugly but at least it seals the flow chamber divider better than what EK blocks do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll agree that the seal is crap (seeing as I had finish issues on my nickel/acetal 5850 block where water shouldn't have been) but the cooling performance is still top of class, is it not?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It may be fugly but at least it seals the flow chamber divider better than what EK blocks do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll agree that the seal is crap (seeing as I had finish issues on my nickel/acetal 5850 block where water shouldn't have been) but the cooling performance is still top of class, is it not?
Click to expand...

As far as I know yes it's better performing than the DD blocks. Just think that EK could have done a better job sealing that portion of the block. Don't get me wrong I like EK products(til this Crop Circle invasion fleet) but hell even a single center screw with an Oring seal would have been better than nothing.









~Ceadder


----------



## ViperSB1

Hello, I am getting ready to rebuild my loop and add a couple additional rads and put my video cards on water. I am trying to figure out how route my loop and am looking for suggestions. Here are a couple possiblities I am looking at. I would appreciate some feedback and suggestions, thanks!


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah the DD looks terrible and the EK has circles , conclusion is buy the heatkiller blocks , they look really good and I havnt seen a ton of bad reviews , it has a really mechanical look very ''metal'' looking.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Hello, I am getting ready to rebuild my loop and add a couple additional rads and put my video cards on water. I am trying to figure out how route my loop and am looking for suggestions. Here are a couple possiblities I am looking at. I would appreciate some feedback and suggestions, thanks!


You could put all your rads in line , for some people that has given them the coolest temps , for example for from your res to the GPU blocks then to the CPU ,then the 120-360-240 and back to the res ,I know its a lot of back and forth but such is life with three rad , otherwise to save some tubing mess your first options seems pretty good.. But really another thing is you probably dont need that 120 , it probably helps but you have enough rad between the 240 and 360 for the 4 blocks..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Yeah the DD looks terrible and the EK has circles , conclusion is buy the heatkiller blocks , they look really good and I havnt seen a ton of bad reviews , it has a really mechanical look very ''metal'' looking.


Im getting 3 of this variant.


So sexy.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Yeah the DD looks terrible and the EK has circles , conclusion is buy the heatkiller blocks , they look really good and I havnt seen a ton of bad reviews , it has a really mechanical look very ''metal'' looking.


Whats the manufacturer website for heat killer?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Whats the manufacturer website for heat killer?


http://watercool.de/

EDIT:

I just noticed this, might dump EK this Gen








Best nickel i've seen so far.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im getting 3 of this variant.
> 
> So sexy.


Yeah thats sick , black on stainless , I dont know why EK is going the direction it is , I am following the thread about their new blocks but they had a corner of the market for people who wanted a clean black or clear acetal block and it was working.. the flaking nickel thing well you cant try new things and never make mistakes but now with the new look they are really going backwards, I almost hope my Nickel EN blocks flake out so I can get heatkillers


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> http://watercool.de/
> EDIT:
> I just noticed this, might dump EK this Gen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best nickel i've seen so far.


Sweet thanks


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Yeah thats sick , black on stainless , I dont know why EK is going the direction it is , I am following the thread about their new blocks but they had a corner of the market for people who wanted a clean black or clear acetal block and it was working.. the flaking nickel thing well you cant try new things and never make mistakes but now with the new look they are really going backwards, I almost hope my Nickel EN blocks flake out so I can get heatkillers


I can't find the GTX-600 series on their page, just up through the 500 series

Nevermind Had to goto the store, they dont have them listed under products....


----------



## jackofhearts495

I'm actually considering 100% EK CSQ (CPU, GPU, RAM, Pump/Reservoir) for my Prodigy build in the frosty acrylic. I think it'll look really cool and unique despite all the hate towards the new design.


----------



## simonfredette

Oh im sure there are some builds that it will look good for but I think thats a small window especially compared to their previous client base , from a buisness point of view its like GM stops making all their cars and only make one model that only people under 5' tall can drive.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im getting 3 of this variant.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So sexy.


Wo. This version looks a lot better.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Wo. This version looks a lot better.


They should come with a R rating and be sold in unmarked boxes....

Pure pr0n at its dirty best.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Hello, I am getting ready to rebuild my loop and add a couple additional rads and put my video cards on water. I am trying to figure out how route my loop and am looking for suggestions. Here are a couple possiblities I am looking at. I would appreciate some feedback and suggestions, thanks!


You might want a second pump in that loop... that is a lot of restriction... 3 radiators, 3 GPU blocks, and a CPU block...


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> You might want a second pump in that loop... that is a lot of restriction... 3 radiators, 3 GPU blocks, and a CPU block...


Man, I really hope not... I believe most of my components are low restriction, maybe with the exception of the GPU blocks. I will be running a Raystorm block, EX120, EX240, RS360, and 3 Koolance VID-NX285N's. My pump is a MCP655B.


----------



## simonfredette

Id take the 120 rad out before adding a pump , the extra flow might actually be more beneficial than the extra rad


----------



## bundymania




----------



## phillyd

*Does anyone know if Danger den 680 blocks fit the 670?*


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> *Does anyone know if Danger den 680 blocks fit the 670?*


Depends on the card, I think... I know the 670 Windforce has the same PCB as the 680, not sure about other 670's. I've also heard that EVGA's 670 FTW is supposed to fit 680 blocks as it uses the 680's PCB layout. Not 100% sure on anything, though.

*EDIT:* EK lists their 680 blocks as being compatible with reference 670s. Definitely double check on EK's Cooling Configurator. Which 670(s) do you have?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> *Does anyone know if Danger den 680 blocks fit the 670?*
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the card, I think... I know the 670 Windforce has the same PCB as the 680, not sure about other 670's. I've also heard that EVGA's 670 FTW is supposed to fit 680 blocks as it uses the 680's PCB layout. Not 100% sure on anything, though.
> 
> *EDIT:* EK lists their 680 blocks as being compatible with reference 670s. Definitely double check on EK's Cooling Configurator. Which 670(s) do you have?
Click to expand...

i plan on getting reference Zotacs


----------



## superericla

Got the 680 I bought from someone here on OCN today as well as my XSPC water block. So far, I've overclocked it by 212MHz on the core and 552MHz on the memory. Seems like I got a pretty good overclocking card.


----------



## kpforce1

Well I may as well join this club. This is my first water cooled build. I had to mod the Storm Trooper case to fit my 140 rad on top of the 280 rad underneath of it. I also discovered that fittings are RIDICULOUSLY expensive... as you can see i used ALOT of them.







I know its older hardware but I can still max every game out that I play.... hail to the mighty socket 775 and SLI GTX 480's muhahaha.

Here Is the album

A few pics to enjoy:




*Water Block's Galore! lol*



*PMP400 Pump Mounted directly to the SR-1 radiator*




*Disco Time Baby!! I loved the look of red and UV on the White*


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I recently sent an email to the makers of Indigo Extreme asking to review a sample. Today I got an email back not only offering me a sample, but offering a sample of a *product they'll be releasing next week*.


What happened to that? I don't see any news or announcements...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalbard*
> 
> What happened to that? I don't see any news or announcements...


They had a bit of a delay with their single pack launch. It should be officially out soon though and when it is I'll have a review up.


----------



## haramosh

^^ thats a lot of buttons on that storm trooper case! I cant wait to finally post up my build in here!


----------



## haramosh

oh ill post a few teasers up anyways! This shell of the case is getting cut to accomodate the 420 radiator up top and the 280 radiator up front.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haramosh*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Is it wrong to want that block? or better yet,a pair of them?


----------



## simonfredette

it is nice isnt it , I thought it had a kind of ''heatkiller'' look to it without the engraving on it , nice simple look


----------



## wermad

I'm tired of spending money to get my cpu-360 compatible with my always changing setup. Im looking just to get a new cpu block with all the mounting hardware. Taking suggestions for a new cpu block ~$50-60







.

I'm eying the Swiftech HD for $60 or the Raystorm @ $50 (jab-tech.com).


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm tired of spending money to get my cpu-360 compatible with my always changing setup. Im looking just to get a new cpu block with all the mounting hardware. Taking suggestions for a new cpu block ~$50-60
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I'm eying the Swiftech HD for $60 or the Raystorm @ $50 (jab-tech.com).


I thought after the 800D with two 480's you were reducing your expenditures. You putting up a new build?


----------



## simonfredette

I have the raystorm and love it , especially if your into the whole LED block , I think it looks pretty cool , get a green LED in there and it could look sweet, and performance wise its about the same , ive been looking at the heatkills too though ,I love the look of those blocks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> I thought after the 800D with two 480's you were reducing your expenditures. You putting up a new build?


I'm dropping back to x58 but I bought my koolance block without any mounting hardware. I'm still keeping the gpu, just cutting back on the mb and cpu. I have the mb and I"m waiting on the cpu to arrive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I have the raystorm and love it , especially if your into the whole LED block , I think it looks pretty cool , get a green LED in there and it could look sweet, and performance wise its about the same , ive been looking at the heatkills too though ,I love the look of those blocks


Believe it or not, I had a Raystorm and only used it one day







. It is a step above the Rasa and its slightly cheaper than the Apogee HD but I'm looking to get the best of a cpu for the price.


----------



## simonfredette

youd have to get your hands on an old style EK supreme or something maybe,,


----------



## johnko1

Quick question: XSPC rx360 or ex 420? Can you suggest me 2(!) 420 rads (60mm max thickness) + good fans?
Low fpi,don't like much noise
Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> youd have to get your hands on an old style EK supreme or something maybe,,


Even though I don't support *new* ek products, I'm more than happy to support my fellow enthusiast and buy a pre-owned Supreme HF. I searched a bit and I haven't found one at my budget.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Just snagged a nickel plexi supreme hf last week and its gorgeous! Had to get it on eBay as they seem to be oos everywhere...


----------



## simonfredette

these days were lucky to find any at all , people are hording them ( understandably)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Just snagged a nickel plexi supreme hf last week and its gorgeous! Had to get it on eBay as they seem to be oos everywhere...


I'd be interested in a copper one. At this point, I don't want to drop $30 just to outfit my Koolance on my new x58 mb.


----------



## DaClownie

Wermad... as long as you're not going 2011, the Raystorm is a great block. Seems to struggle with the LGA2011 gear though (believed to be due to the base not being flat enough

The Copper version seems to yield better temperatures as well, because there's no acrylic mounting system that can flex. The metal mounting keeps perfectly straight and allows for better pressure. And... the copper is sexy . I wish I had gone with the copper. LOL


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Even though I don't support *new* ek products, I'm more than happy to support my fellow enthusiast and buy a pre-owned Supreme HF. I searched a bit and I haven't found one at my budget.


Wermad, you sold your 3820 already? What are you gonna get?


----------



## bundymania

Liquid Extasy GTX680


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Wermad... as long as you're not going 2011, the Raystorm is a great block. Seems to struggle with the LGA2011 gear though (believed to be due to the base not being flat enough
> The Copper version seems to yield better temperatures as well, because there's no acrylic mounting system that can flex. The metal mounting keeps perfectly straight and allows for better pressure. And... the copper is sexy . I wish I had gone with the copper. LOL


I just sold my x79 so it shouldn't be an issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Wermad, you sold your 3820 already? What are you gonna get?


I got two roads. I bought an x58 and Mive p67. I would love to keep the x58 setup since it comes with a water block fitted but I just discovered it has bent pins







. I'm going have it fixed by a friend and if doesn't work, I'll sell it for parts on fleabay and stick with the Mive. Either way, I'm tired of dropping money on this koolance block and I would rather just get one with all the adapters and mounting hardware.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just sold my x79 so it shouldn't be an issue.
> I got two roads. I bought an x58 and Mive p67. I would love to keep the x58 setup since it comes with a water block fitted but I just discovered it has bent pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm going have it fixed by a friend and if doesn't work, I'll sell it for parts on fleabay and stick with the Mive. Either way, I'm tired of dropping money on this koolance block and I would rather just get one with all the adapters and mounting hardware.


I love my Raystorm!!!


----------



## simonfredette

Raystorm pictures !!


----------



## Krahe

Raystorm does look nice, I'm think of getting one of these for my next build, waiting on some performance reviews till I commit though.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Id take the 120 rad out before adding a pump , the extra flow might actually be more beneficial than the extra rad


So you really think that's too much restriction for a D5 to handle? I was about to start working on the loop but now I am a bit worried...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Raystorm does look nice, I'm think of getting one of these for my next build, waiting on some performance reviews till I commit though.


This one is priced right at the price of some of the cpu blocks like the cpu-370, supreme hf, DD, etc. I'm also curious how it performs.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> So you really think that's too much restriction for a D5 to handle? I was about to start working on the loop but now I am a bit worried...


I dont think its too much like cant do it too much but I think its worth doing some tests , you can do it with just one and youl see how your temps are , worst comes to worst you run with your fans a little higher until you get another pump, it would be better but I wouldnt go as far as saying necessary , look at all the people running cpu and 2 or 3 gpu's plus motherboard blocks and ram and still run it, even if you do keep the 120 , im just curious about the temps if you do some tests you have to post the results.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Raystorm does look nice, I'm think of getting one of these for my next build, waiting on some performance reviews till I commit though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is priced right at the price of some of the cpu blocks like the cpu-370, supreme hf, DD, etc. I'm also curious how it performs.
Click to expand...

That block looks strangely familiar.









I think I figured out how EK could minimize the backlash of their new design. Offer the new tops separately and just offer the blocks with what was working already. There are SOME people that don't mind fugly looking blocks. This much is evident. But the bulk of us EK fans aren't liking the new design. If they're plain fine. But all those circles? I'd rather see something minimalistic on them. A few circles? That's much better than going overboard with that.

Why not put EK over the top of a handful of Bubbles? Bubbles that look like this...



They don't even have to be huge just take up a corner of the surface and Overlay the EK logo on it where the more detailed bubbles are at to minimize cutting. That's what they were supposedly going for anyway. Might as well have just done it to begin with instead of going with a Post Apocolytpic Disco design from hell.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Ybris Black Sun. A little over budget but looks pretty good:


----------



## Ceadderman

If you have the EK retention kit, I think that I would go with the BP block werm. Looks like it should easily mount with the EK EZ mount kit.









~Ceadder


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Just got some mail.
Second hand buys from OCAU.




I paid.
$30 each for the 6970 and 6970 Blocks
$100 for ALL the fittings and rotations
$40 for the Res
$20 for the back plate
$50 for the Swiftech Block
and $50 for the pump.
All added to the spare parts collection

TBH, I only bought the AMD blocks because they were $30...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Dang dude that's a huge score! I need to find a place to buy used fittings and accessories so I can have a decent spare parts bin...


----------



## chino1974

MountainDewMadOScar you have a pm


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That block looks strangely familiar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figured out how EK could minimize the backlash of their new design. Offer the new tops separately and just offer the blocks with what was working already. There are SOME people that don't mind fugly looking blocks. This much is evident. But the bulk of us EK fans aren't liking the new design. a Post Apocolytpic Disco design from hell.


i guess i have fugly taste, thats why i spend most of my spare time at post Apocalyptic Disco's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> MountainDewMadOScar you have a pm


He's in Australia. What ever shipping comes out, its gonna cost you the same









Well, decided to buy the bracket for my koolance cpu and get a bigger ssd instead.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Already being put to use


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Man, I really hope not... I believe most of my components are low restriction, maybe with the exception of the GPU blocks. I will be running a Raystorm block, EX120, EX240, RS360, and 3 Koolance VID-NX285N's. My pump is a MCP655B.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Id take the 120 rad out before adding a pump , the extra flow might actually be more beneficial than the extra rad


you'll be fine with that pump and removing a rad wont help if you run into issues - a rad barely has restriction. If anything at all you might want to consider running your GPU blocks in parallel


----------



## ikem

Look out for CPU Magazine for my first water cooling venture. Should be in the August Edition


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> Look out for CPU Magazine for my first water cooling venture. Should be in the August Edition


Congrads! This is one of my favorite builds


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> Look out for CPU Magazine for my first water cooling venture. Should be in the August Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm so glad you got recognized!! This is a gorgeous build


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

zzzzzzzzz easy mode.
Now to flood that pump


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> 
> zzzzzzzzz easy mode.
> Now to flood that pump


Lower the pump? Much easy to prime and you got plenty of space down there









edit: mad ms paint skills to the rescue


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> Look out for CPU Magazine for my first water cooling venture. Should be in the August Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Simply awesom ikem! I loved your build the first time I saw it. That is a hell of a mod.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> zzzzzzzzz easy mode.
> Now to flood that pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lower the pump? Much easy to prime and you got plenty of space down there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: mad ms paint skills to the rescue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

This. Definitely needs to be stood on end to prime the pump.









~Ceadder


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lower the pump? Much easy to prime and you got plenty of space down there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: mad ms paint skills to the rescue


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Simply awesom ikem! I loved your build the first time I saw it. That is a hell of a mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This. Definitely needs to be stood on end to prime the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lol, way ahead of you. Loop is already full

Like I said
zzzzzzz easy mode








Ain't my "first rodeo" hahah


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> So you really think that's too much restriction for a D5 to handle? I was about to start working on the loop but now I am a bit worried...


Flow rate is almost never the cause of bad temperatures. Flow rate is hugely overrated.


----------



## jdangond

New mATX build went from a 600t to the tj08-e


----------



## ginger_nuts

I am looking for some guidance and help before I really consider and pull the pin of nearly $300 to water cool my GPU's

I have 2x GV-N570UD-13I (rev. 2.0) http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920023/width/600/height/398/flags/


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















on my GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 1.0) and was looking at putting these:

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920028/width/600/height/400/flags/


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















and these http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/bcc9/
ENZOTECH BCC9
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920034/width/415/height/283/flags/


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














on them.

Was going to join them using EK-FC Bridge DUAL parallel 3-Slot

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920035/width/600/height/400/flags/


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















BUT

I am not sure if the heat sinks will fit because this pic


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Shows the bridge will go over the top of 3 or 4 ram chips. With very little clearance.

The heat sinks measure 9mm (just short of 3/8) in height.

So can you people's please help.









P.s. Sorry about being so picture happy.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I am looking for some guidance and help before I really consider and pull the pin of nearly $300 to water cool my GPU's
> I have 2x GV-N570UD-13I (rev. 2.0) http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920023/width/600/height/398/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 1.0) and was looking at putting these:
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920028/width/600/height/400/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and these http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/bcc9/
> ENZOTECH BCC9
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920034/width/415/height/283/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on them.
> Was going to join them using EK-FC Bridge DUAL parallel 3-Slot
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920035/width/600/height/400/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT
> I am not sure if the heat sinks will fit because this pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shows the bridge will go over the top of 3 or 4 ram chips. With very little clearance.
> The heat sinks measure 9mm (just short of 3/8) in height.
> So can you people's please help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.s. Sorry about being so picture happy.


You can file down the heatsinks. You can always go with standard universal blocks and use a universal bridge like Swiftech's:



You can also get creative with regular universal blocks and angled fittings. Seeing that you have a bit of space between, you can pull this off with the right hardware. It sucks having gpu(s) that are tricky to outfit for water. You can always consider selling the cards and getting reference ones


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I am looking for some guidance and help before I really consider and pull the pin of nearly $300 to water cool my GPU's
> 
> I have 2x GV-N570UD-13I (rev. 2.0) http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920023/width/600/height/398/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 1.0) and was looking at putting these:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920028/width/600/height/400/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and these http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/bcc9/
> ENZOTECH BCC9
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920034/width/415/height/283/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on them.
> 
> Was going to join them using EK-FC Bridge DUAL parallel 3-Slot
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920035/width/600/height/400/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT
> 
> I am not sure if the heat sinks will fit because this pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shows the bridge will go over the top of 3 or 4 ram chips. With very little clearance.
> 
> The heat sinks measure 9mm (just short of 3/8) in height.
> 
> So can you people's please help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.s. Sorry about being so picture happy.


This was answered once before by someone that looked it up on EK's site. Yes those bocks will fit that 6 hole mounting setup. You only use the exterior openings rather than all 6. Better hop on it soon before they aren't available anymoe. EK is going with their bubble butt fugly decorative pattern already for std blocks. It's matter of time b4 we're screwed into having to buy new gear to keep it all with the same look.









Eddy should get with it and offer those craptastic tops as replacement tops and keep with the same tops that made EK the number one brand they were.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I am looking for some guidance and help before I really consider and pull the pin of nearly $300 to water cool my GPU's
> I have 2x GV-N570UD-13I (rev. 2.0) http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920023/width/600/height/398/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 1.0) and was looking at putting these:
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920028/width/600/height/400/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and these http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/bcc9/
> ENZOTECH BCC9
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920034/width/415/height/283/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on them.
> Was going to join them using EK-FC Bridge DUAL parallel 3-Slot
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/920035/width/600/height/400/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT
> I am not sure if the heat sinks will fit because this pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shows the bridge will go over the top of 3 or 4 ram chips. With very little clearance.
> The heat sinks measure 9mm (just short of 3/8) in height.
> So can you people's please help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.s. Sorry about being so picture happy.


I have those blocks,I cut down Enzotech heatsinks to go under them...you have 9mm of clearance.

Look at my Pipebomb build log,it shows them cut down and in place....cant give you a link as im on my phone at work.


----------



## superericla

Well, after a day of having a GTX 680 I've overclocked it to +220 core and +920 memory. Pretty good so far if I must say.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can file down the heatsinks. You can always go with standard universal blocks and use a universal bridge like Swiftech's:
> 
> You can also get creative with regular universal blocks and angled fittings. Seeing that you have a bit of space between, you can pull this off with the right hardware. It sucks having gpu(s) that are tricky to outfit for water. You can always consider selling the cards and getting reference ones


I can attest that the swiftech universal block cools like a champ... I also got their full cover heatsink to go on my gtx 480's and put a small fan on it. I wouldn't reccommend using the nifty looking swiftech gpu connector block







. it only comes in parallel.


----------



## Kuya Jun

Here's what I got.....Koolance Water Cooling system.

Kuya Jun

DSC_2615.JPG 1024k .JPG file


----------



## Eyedea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well, after a day of having a GTX 680 I've overclocked it to +220 core and +920 memory. Pretty good so far if I must say.


Thats a sweet oc, especially on the mem









What model, i take it its not a ref card?


----------



## fa5terba11

Here is my offering to the water cooling club. "The Frost Phoenix"


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Here is my offering to the water cooling club. "The Frost Phoenix"


Nice switch , looks great!!


----------



## driftingforlife

Please use spoiler tags when quoting pics.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Please use spoiler tags when quoting pics.


Indeed,makes my life easier when im updating the pic list.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Flow rate is almost never the cause of bad temperatures. Flow rate is hugely overrated.


Thats kinda what I was thinking... had contemplated the idea that too high a flow rate could have a negative effect, after all, the longer the fluid is in the rad the cooler it will get. Then again, the shorter its in the blocks the less it will be heated... now I'm confused. LOL









Anyways, I'm gonna use the 120 rad, I did just buy it and would hate for it to become a paper weight. If anything I may swap the Swiftech 655B for a Koolance D5 Strong edition, seems to have improved flow, head, and PSI over the standard D5's. I guess we will see once its up and running... Installing the waterblocks on the GPU's as I post this.


----------



## xNAPx

Hi Guys can you advice me a good full copper for hd7970?


----------



## simonfredette

The D5 is absolutely the best pump out there , there are some that are stronger more flow etc , but the D5 is so versatile , theres a normal and speed adjustable version , they sell all kinds of accessories from dual-pump systems to different heads and even UV colored O-rings. BUT , id tell you to keep what you have and in an case it will work at worst it may take a bit more fan speed but give it a try im sure it will perform just fine ,


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Thats a sweet oc, especially on the mem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What model, i take it its not a ref card?


He probably means 184MHz overclock,effective 920


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> He probably means 184MHz overclock,effective 920


well thats what I assumed , if you raise 920 , thats almost doubling and memory on a graphics card is hard enough to get stable, I usually only OC my bclk and then up the mem slowly


----------



## OmniScience

Some phenomenal buils on here. It's time for me to go liquid.


----------



## OmniScience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Here is my offering to the water cooling club. "The Frost Phoenix"


[email protected]!!! you're making me reconsider getting the Black Switch 810. But the rest of my peripherals are all black... Your build is amazing!


----------



## fa5terba11

Thank you!


----------



## simonfredette

where are the two tubes going out the back under the rear fan going?


----------



## RidicUlust

He has a 120mm rad. Painted the radiator white. BTW nice build log.


----------



## fa5terba11

guess it's hard to see in the pictures I posted, but there is a radiator behind the rear fan (still inside the case).


----------



## simonfredette

ahh , I was wondering , I figured if theres a rad it would be inside not outside.. makes sense now, do you really need that much rad or are you just using everything you have


----------



## fa5terba11

I think I'm pretty close to the right amount of radiator for the overclocked cpu and gtx 580. Ivy Bridge is spicy and GTX 580 adds a lot of heat as well. The GTX 580 is also overclocked to a 920 core clock and 2100 mem clock.


----------



## simonfredette

that is a lot of heat..besides more rad=less noise


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNAPx*
> 
> Hi Guys can you advice me a good full copper for hd7970?












Koolance makes a good nickel block too:



Swiftech makes a 7970 blocks. I've heard mixed reviews, especially of the aesthetics but tbh, its about performance.


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys quick question.
I have this old school Eheim 1046 pump. I got it cleaned up ran the inlet hose under the faucet and the outlet just out the sink. I did purchase the g 1/4 adapters for this, but the pump seems to "gulp" water...so it sounds like gulp gulp...splash..the splash being the water coming out of the outlet....pretty sure it is supposed to be a quiet steady flow....am I wrong about this?
Any recommendations to troubleshoot this thing? Thanks guys!!! And I apologize for the description I understand it's like ping to mechanic saying the car is making a whooshing sound..but I cannot describe it any better.


----------



## _Killswitch_

It has Begun!
Slowly starting to build a water cooling set-up. Money is the major restriction right now =(


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys quick question.
> I have this old school Eheim 1046 pump. I got it cleaned up ran the inlet hose under the faucet and the outlet just out the sink. I did purchase the g 1/4 adapters for this, but the pump seems to "gulp" water...so it sounds like gulp gulp...splash..the splash being the water coming out of the outlet....pretty sure it is supposed to be a quiet steady flow....am I wrong about this?
> Any recommendations to troubleshoot this thing? Thanks guys!!! And I apologize for the description I understand it's like ping to mechanic saying the car is making a whooshing sound..but I cannot describe it any better.


You sure you got the inlet and outlets correct? The pump has a reservoir before the inlet and it has a steady supply of water?


----------



## audioholic

Yes sir. I am not using the reservoirs that hook directly to the pump as I bought the conversion kit to make the fittings g1/4 threading. I am using a Swiftech res and 1/2 barbs.

So to test the pump I ran a tube to my faucet turned on faucet to fill said tube then plugged in pump. I have dealt with fish pumps before and they have made this sound but they eventually balance out and make a steady flow.

This was like I said a gulp..gulp then splash. There is no steady flow..I wish I could add a video from my iPad


----------



## audioholic

Sorry for the crappy video...but here it is


----------



## lowfat

At the beginning of the video it looks like it is getting large air bubbles whenever it is making that noise.


----------



## audioholic

Yea I have no idea..tube was full of water..and the water was actually coming out of the other hose ..so obviously water is on the inside of the pump...


----------



## audioholic

Sorry to flood this thread guys....I found this picture of the impeller..


Mine does not have the "baskets" on the end...could this be the issue? I guess because the impeller is not spinning correctly because these are missing?
Come to think of it my pump sounds like the breathing technique when giving labor...he he he hoo...


----------



## 1010001011001

Heres mine for now




Hoping to get a new Corsair or Seasonic psu soon and get all those cables sleeved up. Really want to buy some MDPC sleeve but im having trouble getting some here in Australia


----------



## jiggle-o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance makes a good nickel block too:
> 
> Swiftech makes a 7970 blocks. I've heard mixed reviews, especially of the aesthetics but tbh, its about performance.


Heatkiller... all that needs to be said


----------



## DragonCypher

Can anyone easily comment on delta temps for a multi-gpu setup?

I currently have an RS360 and RX240 rad, and with the cpu idling and all 3 GPUs folding I sit around 35C delta (GPU temp in afterburner.. don't know actual water temp).

I'm considering getting another radiator to hang off the back to bring the temps back down as I'm not comfortable with them being at 60C 24/7


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Sorry to flood this thread guys....I found this picture of the impeller..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine does not have the "baskets" on the end...could this be the issue? I guess because the impeller is not spinning correctly because these are missing?
> Come to think of it my pump sounds like the breathing technique when giving labor...he he he hoo...


By "no baskets at the end ", do you mean the black rubber bushings? sometimes they get stuck in the pump housing, you NEED them to keep to impeller magnets centred and not grind on the walls of the pump.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1010001011001*
> 
> Hoping to get a new Corsair or Seasonic psu soon and get all those cables sleeved up. Really want to buy some MDPC sleeve but im having trouble getting some here in Australia


I know Gammods have sleeving though I haven't tried it myself.
http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7_20_18


----------



## 1010001011001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I know Gammods have sleeving though I haven't tried it myself.
> http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7_20_18


I was just looking at that stuff before, but it looks like that stock sleeve that they use on all psu's. I'm a little worried that if i buy that stuff that ill still be able to see through it a bit. I mainly wanted mdpc because of their awesome colours







And i was thinking of doing something alittle like this when i get some money.



or



Thinking about changing my coolant to clear aswell.
Do you have to clean and rinse out your radiator, pump and res before changing coolants?

edit: I was just looking at the sleeve that Gammods sell on google images under flexo pet sleeving and to be honest it doesnt look that bad, i might give it a try


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Don't think I posted my loop in here before..









Well here it is, lemme know what you guys think


----------



## Krahe

Looks good Wizrd, nice clean build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1010001011001*
> 
> Do you have to clean and rinse out your radiator, pump and res before changing coolants?
> edit: I was just looking at the sleeve that Gammods sell on google images under flexo pet sleeving and to be honest it doesnt look that bad, i might give it a try


Yep you should, being a dye, residue will be left in your blocks and will tint the new clear water, anyway that's what I found when I was using blue dye and changed back to pure distilled.


----------



## mandrix

I don't see why there would be, but, any issues with using a FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250 ml Reservoir in a horizontal position? Or possibly in a slanted position?


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I don't see why there would be, but, any issues with using a FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250 ml Reservoir in a horizontal position? Or possibly in a slanted position?


Have never owned one myself but a few of the regular members here have so am sure they will be able to help, info you need might be in this thread, worth a look anyway, they are nice res's.
edit. first page on link has one mounted horizontal.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214130/ocn-frozenq-reservoir-owners-club#post_16441992


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I don't see why there would be, but, any issues with using a FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250 ml Reservoir in a horizontal position? Or possibly in a slanted position?


Nope no issues so long as you have a tight seal at the fittings you should be able to run it horizontally if you wish. There are quite a few people who run them horizontally opposed in their loops.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Have never owned one myself but a few of the regular members here have so am sure they will be able to help, info you need might be in this thread, worth a look anyway, they are nice res's.
> edit. first page on link has one mounted horizontal.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1214130/ocn-frozenq-reservoir-owners-club#post_16441992


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope no issues so long as you have a tight seal at the fittings you should be able to run it horizontally if you wish. There are quite a few people who run them horizontally opposed in their loops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks, guys. Funny you can't find something then there's many. A tribute to how large a community there is at OC or maybe my search skills aren't good.
Anyway I have one of these reservoirs, and I've been bouncing some ideas around in my head about all the parts placements in my White sWitch.


----------



## johnko1

Quick question: XSPC rx360 or ex 420? Can you suggest me 2(!) 420 rads (60mm max thickness) + good fans?
Low fpi,don't like much noise
Thanks

Plz answer,posted some days ago but no answer...


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Quick question: XSPC rx360 or ex 420? Can you suggest me 2(!) 420 rads (60mm max thickness) + good fans?
> Low fpi,don't like much noise
> Thanks
> Plz answer,posted some days ago but no answer...


If room is the problem go with the EX, afaik both rads performance is very similar, its mainly that the RX series is twice the thickness of the EX. In a nut shell the EX replaces the RS which didn't cool as well as the RX so they are basically now the same, 420 = more cooling space.
As for fans most people tend to use gentle typhoons as they have good static pressure, and if you are using a fan controller you can lower the rpm your suit your needs, also the new corsair fans (high speed ones) are said to be good on rads as well.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> If room is the problem go with the EX, afaik both rads performance is very similar, its mainly that the RX series is twice the thickness of the EX. In a nut shell the EX replaces the RS which didn't cool as well as the RX so they are basically now the same, 420 = more cooling space.
> As for fans most people tend to use gentle typhoons as they have good static pressure, and if you are using a fan controller you can lower the rpm your suit your needs, also the new corsair fans (high speed ones) are said to be good on rads as well.


60mm it rad's max thickess,theoretically it can go up to 100mm with a single fan row.

Gentle typhoons are 120mm,I need 140mm fans
What about going with 2x HWL sr1 420?They are thick and low fpi


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Quick question: XSPC rx360 or ex 420? Can you suggest me 2(!) 420 rads (60mm max thickness) + good fans?
> Low fpi,don't like much noise
> Thanks
> Plz answer,posted some days ago but no answer...


If you can fit the EX420 + Bgears 140mm adapaters + 120mm Gentle Typhoons, then it would be the way to go. You have about 30% (aka 30% more performance) more frontal surface area. Frontal surface area is way more important than radiator thickness.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you can fit the EX420 + Bgears 140mm adapaters + 120mm Gentle Typhoons, then it would be the way to go. You have about 30% (aka 30% more performance) more frontal surface area. Frontal surface area is way more important than radiator thickness.


Do you have any proof (tests) of that?

Not that I don't belive you but I would like to see comparaison between both because I thought thickness was better.

Thanks


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Do you have any proof (tests) of that?
> Not that I don't belive you but I would like to see comparaison between both because I thought thickness was better.
> Thanks


Look at it this way, when you cool a liquid through a large round tube, the part that cools the fastest is the outer bit, where all the friction is ie the surface area. Now if you narrow the tube so it lets less water through you get a better surface area ratio, and less water passes without getting cooled.



The Off white color represents the Tubing, the cyan represents the cooled water, and the red represents the water that is not getting a large amount of cooling. In the end the round tube results in a higher overall water temp and worse dT results.


----------



## Mayhem

thats why rads with flat long tubes cool better than some erm rounded tubes in rads ... As they dissipate the heat better.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Look at it this way, when you cool a liquid through a large round tube, the part that cools the fastest is the outer bit, where all the friction is ie the surface area. Now if you narrow the tube so it lets less water through you get a better surface area ratio, and less water passes without getting cooled.
> 
> The Off white color represents the Tubing, the cyan represents the cooled water, and the red represents the water that is not getting a large amount of cooling. In the end the round tube results in a higher overall water temp and worse dT results.


I can understand what you are saying there, but what does that have to do with radiator thickness and frontal area ?

I am not being cheeky, just don't understand or might be missing something.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> thats why rads with flat long tubes cool better than some erm rounded tubes in rads ... As they dissipate the heat better.


I haven't seen round tubes in rads in a good while...few years


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> thats why rads with flat long tubes cool better than some erm rounded tubes in rads ... As they dissipate the heat better.


They also provide less airlow restriction..its the fins that shift the heat,not airflow on the cores directly.
Although Aquacomputer have adopted round tubes for the AMS rad system,but these are all offset rather than in rows.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I can understand what you are saying there, but what does that have to do with radiator thickness and frontal area ?
> I am not being cheeky, just don't understand or might be missing something.
> 
> I haven't seen round tubes in rads in a good while...few years


That I am not sure on... as I am not sure what exactly frontal area is, and I am having a hard time finding a definition.

THe best I have been able to find...
Quote:


> The area of an object as seen from front on. This frontal area is one of the variables that affect drag. Doubling frontal area will result in twice as much drag.


Meaning if I am understanding it related to radiators, the more frontal area the more wind resistance, which means the fans are less effective in moving air across the radiator. Less air movement means less cooling.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> That I am not sure on... as I am not sure what exactly frontal area is, and I am having a hard time finding a definition


240 x 360 x 30mm rad. Vs a 120 x 360 x 60mm.

Never seen a 240 wide rad. but just how much better would it perform over the 60mm thick rad, I'm just serious.

Or even how well do two 120 x 360 x 30mm rads perform, compared to one 120 x 360 x 60mm (same fans, speed and rad design)


----------



## KaRLiToS

Guys, I have a i7 3930k @ 4.8Ghz and Asus Rive both watercooled and I will have 4 x 7970 also watercooled

I will get the 7970 Ghz Edition but still, I'm not sure if I have enough rad space.

Do you think 3 x Feser Radiator will be enough (push pull configurations on the three of them)

*Rads*

360 X-Changer
480 X-Changer
240 x-Changer


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Guys, I have a i7 3930k @ 4.8Ghz and Asus Rive both watercooled and I will have 4 x 7970 also watercooled
> I will get the 7970 Ghz Edition but still, I'm not sure if I have enough rad space.
> Do you think 3 x Feser Radiator will be enough (push pull configurations on the three of them)
> *Rads*
> 360 X-Changer
> 480 X-Changer
> 240 x-Changer


My two HD7970s(1100/1600 at 1.81v) top out at high 40s / very low 50s, 3930k (4.5GHz at 1.365v) tops out at around 65c, also have and EK vrm block on my RIVF, and using two Feser 360 X-Changers with 6 x GT AP-15

I think you will be OK


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Do you have any proof (tests) of that?
> Not that I don't belive you but I would like to see comparaison between both because I thought thickness was better.
> Thanks


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/


----------



## bundymania

i7-2600K CPU Danger Den M6 Block Preview « martinsliquidlab.org


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/


What I meant is a comparaison between thickness and surface.


----------



## simonfredette

hey off topic but happy fathers day guys .. with kids obviously! im about 2000 miles from my princess , not to mention my sig rig.. gonna be a craptastic day


----------



## ugotd8

Installed the new Bitspower Summit EF waterblock on my SB-E rig yesterday...


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Installed the new Bitspower Summit EF waterblock on my SB-E rig yesterday...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Please do share how you like this new block! It's a sharp looking one for sure.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Anybody running 4.8GHz+ on the 3930K/3960X? If so, what are your temps and how many rads do you have? I'm trying to design my loop so that I can run 4.8GHz @ 1.45V at under 70C....


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Anybody running 4.8GHz+ on the 3930K/3960X? If so, what are your temps and how many rads do you have? I'm trying to design my loop so that I can run 4.8GHz @ 1.45V at under 70C....


Excluding the unrealistic stress testing apps (linpack, prime) that's not too tough. I built mine for 3D rendering and during the last hour long render I hit a max of 50C on the IHS and 62C on the hottest core.

Come over to the club in my sig for the board, I posted my OC settings awhile back. Using offset mode, I only need 1.352V for 4.8.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Anybody running 4.8GHz+ on the 3930K/3960X? If so, what are your temps and how many rads do you have? I'm trying to design my loop so that I can run 4.8GHz @ 1.45V at under 70C....


I run 4.8ghz at 1.48v for benching and i haven't seen it above 65c. One Phobya G-Changer 480 Ver. 1.2 Black with 4 AP-15's.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Upgrade loop with new RAD (Alphacool 30T 240) Great rad for the size on pace with my 55mm EK that was in push pull.


I'm looking at doing the same loop more or less, Do you have an angled barb on one of the cpu blocks? or are those both straight. Should I get a right angle barb on one of those cpu spots if I do the same configuration? I was planning on going with Monsoon compressions


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I'm looking at doing the same loop more or less, Do you have an angled barb on one of the cpu blocks? or are those both straight. Should I get a right angle barb on one of those cpu spots if I do the same configuration? I was planning on going with Monsoon compressions


I don't have a angled barb. I thought about it but really I like it straight on. Even thought about getting quick disconnects there instead. I would get a angled barb for the radiator to the koolance 452x2 bay. 45 degree angle. But remember when you mount in the front that your going to need extra tubing space to be able to pull that Bay/Res out to fill it.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I don't have a angled barb. I thought about it but really I like it straight on. Even thought about getting quick disconnects there instead. I would get a angled barb for the radiator to the koolance 452x2 bay. 45 degree angle. But remember when you mount in the front that your going to need extra tubing space to be able to pull that Bay/Res out to fill it.


Doesnt the Koolance 452x2 have front fill ports?


----------



## siffonen

I`m starting to sleeve my cables, and i`m wondering that should i change my airflow direction at the same time i sleeve my fans. Currently i have a EK XT360 on top and 3xap-14 pushing air through the rad into the case, xspc ex240 at the rear with 2x120mm EK fans(going to change to ap-14/ap15) pushing through rad towards case, not 100% of airflow goes to case. Side and front fans are exhaus, and case is haf-x. Do you guys think that current setups is ok, or shoud i change that front and side fans to intake and rad fans pushing air out from the case.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Doesnt the Koolance 452x2 have front fill ports?


It does but I don't think they work as well. The water just sits there and drips in. I fill from the top fill ports no problem.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

What fan controller do you guys use? I'll have 240 and 560 rads so I need 6 channels preferably. The lamptron touch has 6 channels but the interface looks wonky to me. I like the 4 channel rheobus one with multi color display but its only 4 channel. I'm thinking of using fan cable y-adapters and hooking two fans from the 560 to each channel to cut it down to 4 channels. What do you think?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> What fan controller do you guys use? I'll have 240 and 560 rads so I need 6 channels preferably. The lamptron touch has 6 channels but the interface looks wonky to me. I like the 4 channel rheobus one with multi color display but its only 4 channel. I'm thinking of using fan cable y-adapters and hooking two fans from the 560 to each channel to cut it down to 4 channels. What do you think?


I've always been a fan of the Aquaero 5.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> What fan controller do you guys use? I'll have 240 and 560 rads so I need 6 channels preferably. The lamptron touch has 6 channels but the interface looks wonky to me. I like the 4 channel rheobus one with multi color display but its only 4 channel. I'm thinking of using fan cable y-adapters and hooking two fans from the 560 to each channel to cut it down to 4 channels. What do you think?


I use an nzxt sentry but thats only 5 channels, there was a thread I was on where the guy had Y cables and ended up blowing the controller but I think it ended up being a pinched wire not overload


----------



## ginger_nuts

The Lamptron FC8 and FC9 would be enough.

FC8 is 8 channel at 30w per channel

and

FC9 is 4 channel at 50w each.

Plenty considering most fans are only rated around the 5-6w mark.

Using Y adapters is not a problem unless you are using a serious amount of fans from one channel.

Unless you are running from your MB, which is worth researching first, for instance Gigabyte has told me my fan sockets are rated for 1.1Amp which is 10.9w, So I happily run two fans from my PWM CPU fan header.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The Lamptron FC8 and FC9 would be enough.
> 
> FC8 is 8 channel at 30w per channel
> 
> and
> 
> FC9 is 4 channel at 50w each.
> 
> Plenty considering most fans are only rated around the 5-6w mark.
> 
> Using Y adapters is not a problem unless you are using a serious amount of fans from one channel.
> 
> Unless you are running from your MB, which is worth researching first, for instance Gigabyte has told me my fan sockets are rated for 1.1Amp which is 10.9w, So I happily run two fans from my PWM CPU fan header.


Gotta love Lamptron's naming pattern.

8 is an 8chan
9 is 4...







I dunno...










~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

fc 6 is also 4 channel , 7 colours, 10W per channel ... WHERE DO THEY GET THE 6!!


----------



## carrotman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> fc 6 is also 4 channel , 7 colours, 10W per channel ... WHERE DO THEY GET THE 6!!


simple... (7/4)+10=6
duh.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> simple... (7/4)+10=6
> duh.


first of all ... (7/4)+10=6 BEDMAS brackets exponents division multi adds subs therefore
(1.75)+10=
11.75=11.75

so theyre numbers dont work , they need 24 colours , then its all good


----------



## fr0st.

BEDMAS is for children, get on my BIMDAS levels.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.*
> 
> BEDMAS is for children, get on my BIMDAS levels.


same thing , and Im an aviation technician in the canadian forces working on c-130J hercules.. one of our books the battle damage book and one of the front pages explains bedmas in long .. because you can fix military aircraft but cant handle third grade math..


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> first of all ... (7/4)+10=6 BEDMAS brackets exponents division multi adds subs therefore
> (1.75)+10=
> 11.75=11.75
> so theyre numbers dont work , they need 24 colours , then its all good


Wouldn't they need -16 colors for this to work?


----------



## simonfredette

yes , -16


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> same thing , and Im an aviation technician in the canadian forces working on c-130J hercules.. one of our books the battle damage book and one of the front pages explains bedmas in long .. because you can fix military aircraft but cant handle third grade math..


BEDMAS IS FOR CHILDREEEEENNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.*
> 
> BEDMAS IS FOR CHILDREEEEENNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN


children and people making big $ fixing military planes


----------



## Krahe

I remember reading somewhere that the number 4 is considered a bad omen in a lot of Asian counties, might explain it...then again might not.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> I remember reading somewhere that the number 4 is considered a bad omen in a lot of Asian counties, might explain it...then again might not.


In the Chinese alphabet, the symbol for death looks very much like the number 4. Next time you are in Vegas take a look at a Pai Gow table, the spots are numbered 1,2,3,5,6,7... no 4.


----------



## Rognin

Put the sleeving tut in my build log.


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> In the Chinese alphabet, the symbol for death looks very much like the number 4. Next time you are in Vegas take a look at a Pai Gow table, the spots are numbered 1,2,3,5,6,7... no 4.


Actually, it's because they sound very similar. They look quite different from each other.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Wow this got way OT...


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Wow this got way OT...


indeed. let's keep OT here please..


----------



## mannyfc

and my new rig


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*
> 
> indeed. let's keep OT here please..


That's what I get for being pedantic.









Back OT... Does anyone using an MCP35X2 actually ever run it at 100% ? Seems like I'm going to need a 1 gallon jug for a res.


----------



## simonfredette

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mannyfc*
> 
> and my new rig






love seeing watercooled minis, nice build , its a tough fit!


----------



## johnko1

guys here's the testbench I was talking about.I decided to go with two 3x140mm rads,probably hwl sr-1


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> guys here's the testbench I was talking about.I decided to go with two 3x140mm rads,probably hwl sr-1


What program is that? :|
that would be really useful to me.. lol


----------



## Goofy Goober

hi guys, some pictures of my rig, just filled up with Mayhems Pastel Light red + some Grape red + 10 drop of Red Dye



















a video recorded some weeks ago, before the pastel













hope you like it!


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> What program is that? :|
> that would be really useful to me.. lol


Google sketchup







Much better than ms paint


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> That's what I get for being pedantic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back OT... Does anyone using an MCP35X2 actually ever run it at 100% ? Seems like I'm going to need a 1 gallon jug for a res.


I run two in series within my loop... well they are the Koolance PMP-400 variant but very similar. With all of the blocks and fittings in my loop yes, I run them both at 100% when I'm gaming/folding/etc.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> What program is that? :|
> that would be really useful to me.. lol


Looks like Google Sketchup


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Google sketchup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much better than ms paint


Yeah but a LOT harder to use


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Google sketchup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much better than ms paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but a LOT harder to use
Click to expand...

They're pretty equal. Google Sketchup is one of the simplest drawing softwares out there. You can be borderline ******ed and make great looking stuff on it.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> They're pretty equal. Google Sketchup is one of the simplest drawing softwares out there. You can be borderline ******ed and make great looking stuff on it.


I taught myself photoshop, and am in the process of learning sketchup, and am having a lot harder time of it


----------



## zdude

I just use Autodesk inventor for my modeling


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> I taught myself photoshop, and am in the process of learning sketchup, and am having a lot harder time of it


It's another one of those hobbies that takes a bit of time to build.


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Goober*
> 
> hi guys, some pictures of my rig, just filled up with Mayhems Pastel Light red + some Grape red + 10 drop of Red Dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a video recorded some weeks ago, before the pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you like it!


Epic rig! Love it


----------



## wermad

^^^ Use spoilers please!!!! Thank you









Done


----------



## rotary7

I have my 680s on the universal waterblocks from EK and the bridge, it works out well for me because I can always upgrade my stuff.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ Use spoilers please!!!! Thank you


how do you do spoilers?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> how do you do spoilers?


Code:



Code:


[spoiler=Click to see pictures!] content goes here [/spoiler]




Spoiler: Click to see pictures!



pictures.jpg


----------



## zdude

someone should write a guide on how to do the spoilers because it seems as if we have to show someone how to do them every week...


----------



## simonfredette

what I cant seem to do is add links in my sig , and change the name , example put a link to a club but change its name to the name of the club .. Never put much effort in trying but still


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

if you quote someone with pics please use

spoiler

also cleaned thread. please stay OT.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I'm sorry but I couldn't wait any longer for Monsoon to ship their 90 degree fittings to retailers, so I just settled for some Bitspower fittings to finish off my loop, along with a couple of kill coils. At least I'll receive the order before Friday, so I can start leak testing it by Saturday. I hate mixing products that have different looks, but Monsoon forced my hand.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> someone should write a guide on how to do the spoilers because it seems as if we have to show someone how to do them every week...


----------



## protzman

go ahead. everyone tell me how ugly they think they are!!!


----------



## KaRLiToS

I like it


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> 
> go ahead. everyone tell me how ugly they think they are!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I like it


this


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Dang it, I can't decide between 3/8 tubing or 1/2! What do you guys think? I'm leaning 3/8 but not sure what OD I should go with? Help!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Dang it, I can't decide between 3/8 tubing or 1/2! What do you guys think? I'm leaning 3/8 but not sure what OD I should go with? Help!


I bought 3/8 tubing before I started my build and thought it looked too thin imo. So I went with 1/2 ID tubing instead. I think it looks better. I'm sure it don't make a difference in flow/temps between the two sizes.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Dang it, I can't decide between 3/8 tubing or 1/2! What do you guys think? I'm leaning 3/8 but not sure what OD I should go with? Help!


its easier to work with 3/8" 5/8" IMO


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I like it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> this


thanks guys







one step closer to finishing my build!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> its easier to work with 3/8" 5/8" IMO


That's what I am looking for. Easy to work with (less kinking and plenty of flexibility). Leaning towards 3/8 x 5/8 at the moment...


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's what I am looking for. Easy to work with (less kinking and plenty of flexibility). Leaning towards 3/8 x 5/8 at the moment...


1/2ID x 3/4OD don't kink easily either has a great bending radius and looks really smexy with mayhem pastel coolants check out my youtube vid of it








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkCex0ZrVrY


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one step closer to finishing my build!


I love it as well. Are you gonna get a GPU CSQ block as well, or just the reservoir / CPU block?


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

test bench loop in action


----------



## fa5terba11

In my experience 3/8 id to 5/8 od tubing has a better bend radius than 1/2 to 3/4. For bend radius the thickness of the walls is what matters. In this instance both tubing sizes are at 1/4 inch, I think overall the slightly smaller tubing allows you to have tighter bends. Also narrower tubing creates more pressure, but wider tubing allows more flow. All in all I think the difference is negligible.


----------



## phillyd

do you guys think i should cool my GTX 670's in serial with tubing and monsoon fittings or do it in parallel with tubing, moonsoon fittings and these
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30698


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> 
> go ahead. everyone tell me how ugly they think they are!!!












Sorry I had to.







Though I do like the frosted acrylic, would look great for an all white or white/blue colored build.


----------



## superericla

I just got a quick update from Indigo Xtreme on the review samples they're sending me:
Quote:


> Hi Eric,
> 
> Your mounts shipped today (AM3 and 2011); you will be the first to receive and review our new Single Packs; they will start showing up at various resellers next week; feel free to contact me if you have any installation questions; thank you!
> 
> Chris


Looks like I'll be the first one to review their new single packs on both my current AMD setup, and my new 2011 setup once it arrives. I'm very excited for the opportunity.


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> test bench loop in action






Are those three bottles in the bottom right corner what your using for coolant in the rig or just yourself? Lol! Looking good


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Google sketchup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much better than ms paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but a LOT harder to use
Click to expand...

I just dl'ed Sketchup. Not sure I like it. I can figure it out that's not the issue. I'm reasonably comfortable around stuff like this. What I don't like is the size constraints. Of course this is a new program for me and I'm pretty well from the sketch by hand crowd. Gonna have to spend a little time with this before I can sketch my bench up to the correct specifications.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's what I am looking for. Easy to work with (less kinking and plenty of flexibility). Leaning towards 3/8 x 5/8 at the moment...
> 
> 
> 
> 1/2ID x 3/4OD don't kink easily either has a great bending radius and looks really smexy with mayhem pastel coolants check out my youtube vid of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkCex0ZrVrY
Click to expand...

If you're workin with a limited amount of room 3/8" ID or smaller is the way to go. Will be more prone to kinkage but that's manageable imho. If space is at a premium then I would go for whatever yer feelin. If 3/8" ID is what sets your gentleman bits at full attention then go with that. For me it's 1/2" ID. Simply looks like it belongs in my case. If you have no idea what looks like it belongs ask around and see if any of us have a piece of tubing we can send you for comparison's sake. Once you have it in hand it's easier to make the right decision.









I can contribute a piece of 1/2" x 3/4" toward this cause.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> do you guys think i should cool my GTX 670's in serial with tubing and monsoon fittings or do it in parallel with tubing, moonsoon fittings and these
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30698


Not sure but I would just do Parallel without the T blocks. That's just me.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> 
> go ahead. everyone tell me how ugly they think they are!!!




~Ceadder


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I love it as well. Are you gonna get a GPU CSQ block as well, or just the reservoir / CPU block?


yeah already orderd it! will have 2 eventually, but just one for now because that will take forever


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> do you guys think i should cool my GTX 670's in serial with tubing and monsoon fittings or do it in parallel with tubing, moonsoon fittings and these
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30698


Everything that I have ever seen suggest that serial/series is better. I would have to agree with that statement after having my gtx 480's in parallel with the Swiftech SLI bridge and extension fittings. One of my cards is always hotter (8* C delta) because of flow differential in parallel and because I have different fittings on the inlet vs outlet. If they were in series I would have the same temps on both. Just my $.02









I really like the look or extension fittings and/or SLI/Crossfire bridges though


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> do you guys think i should cool my GTX 670's in serial with tubing and monsoon fittings or do it in parallel with tubing, moonsoon fittings and these
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30698
> 
> 
> 
> Everything that I have ever seen suggest that serial/series is better. I would have to agree with that statement after having my gtx 480's in parallel with the Swiftech SLI bridge and extension fittings. One of my cards is always hotter (8* C delta) because of flow differential in parallel and because I have different fittings on the inlet vs outlet. If they were in series I would have the same temps on both. Just my $.02
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the look or extension fittings and/or SLI/Crossfire bridges though
Click to expand...

To play devil's advocate with that... most people's video cards after watercooling are so incredibly icy (mine tops out at 45C with a 1300/1700 OC, Radeon HD 7970) that 8C warmer isn't even remotely close to hot yet.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> To play devil's advocate with that... most people's video cards after watercooling are so incredibly icy (mine tops out at 45C with a 1300/1700 OC, Radeon HD 7970) that 8C warmer isn't even remotely close to hot yet.


lol, i know and I agree.... but my 480's definitely produce some heat so that +8C puts my top card at ~56C vs ~48C after a gaming/bench session







. I was just talking from the performance and stability aspect... you would really like to have both cards at the same temp I would think (eliminate a variable for OC'ing two cards).


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> 
> 
> go ahead. everyone tell me how ugly they think they are!!!


They would look nice if it wasn't frosted acrylic.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## carrotman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder






That's just fantastic. lol.


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Does anyone using an MCP35X2 actually ever run it at 100% ? Seems like I'm going to need a 1 gallon jug for a res.


I have not OC anything yet, but I never run mine over 50-60% at full load (quite at these settings), but when I'm not gaming its usually running at 35-40%. I hear my AP-15s over my pump 90% of the time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New flavour of DDC out now..

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Laing-DDC-325-Pump-900-Lhr-18W--DDC-325-pid-15942.html


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New flavour of DDC out now..
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Laing-DDC-325-Pump-900-Lhr-18W--DDC-325-pid-15942.html


Holy crap.... I want one! hahaha


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New flavour of DDC out now..
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Laing-DDC-325-Pump-900-Lhr-18W--DDC-325-pid-15942.html


About double the flow rate and about a third the pressure head of Koolance's PMP-400 (DDC 3.25). Same power consumption. I don't think this pump will be too happy about crossfire/SLI setups.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> About double the flow rate and about a third the pressure head of Koolance's PMP-400 (DDC 3.25). Same power consumption. I don't think this pump will be too happy about crossfire/SLI setups.


This.... some folks need a pump for more head... lol...for example I have 7 blocks and 4 radiators in my loop (hence why I have two PMP-400's in series due to the high head pressure).


----------



## simonfredette

id still get two D5 pumps with an EK dual pump adapter on it instead with that many blocks ,you get the increase you need for all your blocks and extra safety with a redundant system in case a pump dies. Not saying one big pump isnt good but folding while im gone with a watercooled rig with only one pump scares me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I am all about D5's...hot and noisy DDC's just dont do it for me.

Plus i hate working on their PCBs when they burn up......


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am all about D5's...hot and noisy DDC's just dont do it for me.
> Plus i hate working on their PCBs when they burn up......


Same here. I have one DCC and its a PITA. D5's for life.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am all about D5's...hot and noisy DDC's just dont do it for me.
> Plus i hate working on their PCBs when they burn up......
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. I have one DCC and its a PITA. D5's for life.
Click to expand...

Rock on, love my D5... bought it used over 2 years ago, still rocking and rolling no problems.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am all about D5's...hot and noisy DDC's just dont do it for me.
> Plus i hate working on their PCBs when they burn up......


Hmm.... my fans are louder than my DDC's. I do have a Phobia full metal top block and heat sinks on the back of mine though... maybe thats why I don't have those issues?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Goober*
> 
> hi guys, some pictures of my rig, just filled up with Mayhems Pastel Light red + some Grape red + 10 drop of Red Dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2526396/width/600/height/547]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> a video recorded some weeks ago, before the pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you like it!


I hope you are originally born and rise from Smallville!


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> This.... some folks need a pump for more head... lol...for example I have 7 blocks and 4 radiators in my loop (hence why I have two PMP-400's in series due to the high head pressure).


I was looking at the wrong number when comparing the pressure head of the Koolance DDC. It has a pressure head of 7m, not the 15.5m that I mistakenly calculated. Still, this has almost 30% less head pressure than the Koolance. Not quite the 66% decrease I said earlier, but still quite a good drop in pressure.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> That's what I get for being pedantic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back OT... Does anyone using an MCP35X2 actually ever run it at 100% ? Seems like I'm going to need a 1 gallon jug for a res.


I ran both of my MCP35X' @ 20% via speedfan. Anything higher had no impact on temperatures. Anything lower and it would start to reverberate.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New flavour of DDC out now..
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Laing-DDC-325-Pump-900-Lhr-18W--DDC-325-pid-15942.html
> 
> 
> 
> Holy crap.... I want one! hahaha
Click to expand...

I'm no cooling professional but I coulda swore 3.25s' were already out.

Now if they came out with 3.75 or 4.5? That would be new.

As far as I know this is what was already currently available...


DDC-1
DDC-1T
DDC 3.25
DDC 3.50
DDC 3.55
MCP 4.0
Now again, I could be wrong but I'm reasonably sure I've seen all these pumps reviewed by Martin.









Nothing wrong with DDC though. Not all of them are hot. My DDC-1Ts' are nice and cool and in the flow path of my 200 the heat buildup is incredibly non existent considering DDC's reputation. I think where a lot of the heat comes from is the increased voltage per pump after the 1T. This is where D5s' win is they have a proper heatsink included with the pump.









Hey Bundy what block is that and who makes it?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

In my personal experience, D5 was a lot noisier and hotter than my DDC 3.2. I think it really comes down to personal preference as the arguments for and against each pump can be said about both. I love the compact size of the of the DDC and its low, low noise.

Oh, I thought ddc 3.25 = mcp 35x,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Yeah,they are already out as rebrands...
Not seen them with UK vendors before,my bad.

Talking about pumps,I believe the increased impelled size of the DDC is the cause of its heat increase due to the load it places on the motor,the D5 impeller is a lot smaller..it would explain the head increase over the D5.

What RPM do the 18w DDC max out at?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## lowfat

DDC3.25 isn't MCP35x. MCP35x performs slightly better plus has PWM.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/25/swiftech-mcp-35x-reservoir/


----------



## AMC

Love my D5


----------



## simonfredette

I mean you can even buy UV reactive O-rings for D5's , all kinds of heads for it , bay res/pump combos of all sizes. The D5 is the best !


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I mean you can even buy UV reactive O-rings for D5's , all kinds of heads for it , bay res/pump combos of all sizes. The D5 is the best !


You can do all this w/ an MCP35x/DDC too.


----------



## simonfredette

even the O-rings !!! ?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> even the O-rings !!! ?


I have Bitspower blue silicon o-rings on all my DDC's. They are a lot better than the stock o-rings.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have Bitspower blue silicon o-rings on all my DDC's. They are a lot better than the stock o-rings.


Ok , but my D5 is better , because my dad is stronger than your dad ! ... here I thought my D5 was special


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Ok , but my D5 is better , because my dad is stronger than your dad ! ... here I thought my D5 was special


The D5 is like a freight train, it pulls a lot of weight and keeps on chugging along!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> DDC3.25 isn't MCP35x. MCP35x performs slightly better plus has PWM.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/25/swiftech-mcp-35x-reservoir/


Thanks Low


----------



## zoson

Recently switched from a Swiftech D5 (MCP655) to a Swiftech MCP35x2.

First, PWM rules.
Second, while it is significantly more expensive than a D5, the MCP35x2 is also SIGNIFICANTLY more quiet. The pumps at about 1500RPM push a lot more flow through my system than the D5 at speed 3(which is where I kept it due to noise levels).

If you want the most quiet pump possible, I don't think you can beat an MCP35x2.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Recently switched from a Swiftech D5 (MCP655) to a Swiftech MCP35x2.
> First, PWM rules.
> Second, while it is significantly more expensive than a D5, the MCP35x2 is also SIGNIFICANTLY more quiet. The pumps at about 1500RPM push a lot more flow through my system than the D5 at speed 3(which is where I kept it due to noise levels).
> If you want the most quiet pump possible, I don't think you can beat an MCP35x2.


that mcp35x2 looks pretty sweet dude.

i tell you what when i was choosing parts for my build i figured 2 mcp350's in series would be good enough for my rig. the only other pump i've had was on my old rig and that was a mcp355. i would love to grab 2 mcp35x's to replace my 350's and see what a difference it'd make. though i would be pretty upset if i only got like a 2 or 3 degree drop, which i think it'd only be :/ thats the only thing holding me back personally.

just my .02


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread UPDATED.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,they are already out as rebrands...
> Not seen them with UK vendors before,my bad.
> Talking about pumps,I believe the increased impelled size of the DDC is the cause of its heat increase due to the load it places on the motor,the D5 impeller is a lot smaller..it would explain the head increase over the D5.
> What RPM do the 18w DDC max out at?


Mine hover around 4k RPM at 100% (20W max)


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Recently switched from a Swiftech D5 (MCP655) to a Swiftech MCP35x2.
> First, PWM rules.
> Second, while it is significantly more expensive than a D5, the MCP35x2 is also SIGNIFICANTLY more quiet. The pumps at about 1500RPM push a lot more flow through my system than the D5 at speed 3(which is where I kept it due to noise levels).
> If you want the most quiet pump possible, I don't think you can beat an MCP35x2.


Is it really noticable more quiet?
Maby I have to get ridd of my MCP655s which currently are the most noisy stuff in my system!1


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Recently switched from a Swiftech D5 (MCP655) to a Swiftech MCP35x2.
> First, PWM rules.
> Second, while it is significantly more expensive than a D5, the MCP35x2 is also SIGNIFICANTLY more quiet. The pumps at about 1500RPM push a lot more flow through my system than the D5 at speed 3(which is where I kept it due to noise levels).
> If you want the most quiet pump possible, I don't think you can beat an MCP35x2.


Hey i just bought this pump too, and i love it, tho im not 100% done with my build yet. Being my first real venture into wc'ing i wanted to do everything right the first time!
but like you said its got different speed settings? how do you chsnge these?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Is it really noticable more quiet?
> Maby I have to get ridd of my MCP655s which currently are the most noisy stuff in my system!1


I don't think you guy's are decoupling your pump much at all, use the Gel Stuff! This is how the D5 sounds properly decoupled, the stock pump top sounds noticeably louder. The Gentle Typhoons AP-15's are noticeably louder that both!

Martins Pump Noise Testing Round 1


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I don't think you guy's are decoupling your pump much at all, use the Gel Stuff! This is how the D5 sounds properly decoupled, the stock pump top sounds noticeably louder. The Gentle Typhoons AP-15's are noticeably louder that both!
> Martins Pump Noise Testing Round 1


Does anyone know where i can get the "gel stuff" that's not from Petras tech? You need to contact them for orders outside of america.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Is it really noticable more quiet?
> Maby I have to get ridd of my MCP655s which currently are the most noisy stuff in my system!1
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you guy's are decoupling your pump much at all, use the Gel Stuff! This is how the D5 sounds properly decoupled, the stock pump top sounds noticeably louder. The Gentle Typhoons AP-15's are noticeably louder that both!
> 
> Martins Pump Noise Testing Round 1
Click to expand...

I don't really have an option to decouple my pump at all, it's attached directly to my res and block with 11 mm rotary spacers...

Luckily once I got most of the air out of my loop, the pump quieted right down. It wasn't vibrating the entire case so much as just very loud from the air bubbles passing through it at very high speeds.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> Does anyone know where i can get the "gel stuff" that's not from Petras tech? You need to contact them for orders outside of america.


Cut up an old mouse pad.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Cut up an old mouse pad.


Im not sure I see how that is an equivalent to "gel stuff"


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> Does anyone know where i can get the "gel stuff" that's not from Petras tech? You need to contact them for orders outside of america.


The Bitspower mod kit comes with a rubberized mounting bracket to isolate vibration. And it looks boss...


----------



## jcho285

Anyone know how often are you suppose to replace the silver coil in the loop?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> Anyone know how often are you suppose to replace the silver coil in the loop?


You shouldn't have to, as long as it's still in the loop, you're good.


----------



## Da1Nonly

So reading about the pumps through the last few pages, can you mix the pumps in your loop? Like have two different kinds of pumps? Or is that going to restrict waterflow?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I wouldn't see why you would want to mix pumps honestly...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A Little more progress...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Recently switched from a Swiftech D5 (MCP655) to a Swiftech MCP35x2.
> First, PWM rules.
> Second, while it is significantly more expensive than a D5, the MCP35x2 is also SIGNIFICANTLY more quiet. The pumps at about 1500RPM push a lot more flow through my system than the D5 at speed 3(which is where I kept it due to noise levels).
> If you want the most quiet pump possible, I don't think you can beat an MCP35x2.
> 
> 
> 
> that mcp35x2 looks pretty sweet dude.
> 
> i tell you what when i was choosing parts for my build i figured 2 mcp350's in series would be good enough for my rig. the only other pump i've had was on my old rig and that was a mcp355. i would love to grab 2 mcp35x's to replace my 350's and see what a difference it'd make. though i would be pretty upset if i only got like a 2 or 3 degree drop, which i think it'd only be :/ thats the only thing holding me back personally.
> 
> just my .02
Click to expand...

I run two DDC-1T in series but have them on separate channels. I can run them both at the same time or as 1 constant and 1 backup as I am running them now. DDC/MCP Pumps are just as good as D5 and Heat is the main reason to go D5 over DDC pumps imho. It's been a little while since Vario was a good reason to go D5, since we can do the same thing with DDC and a good fan controller as a D5 owner could with Vario.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> even the O-rings !!! ?


Change the top and yes, yes you can.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Is it really noticable more quiet?
> 
> Maby I have to get ridd of my MCP655s which currently are the most noisy stuff in my system!1
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you guy's are decoupling your pump much at all, use the Gel Stuff! This is how the D5 sounds properly decoupled, the stock pump top sounds noticeably louder. The Gentle Typhoons AP-15's are noticeably louder that both!
> 
> Martins Pump Noise Testing Round 1
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't really have an option to decouple my pump at all, it's attached directly to my res and block with 11 mm rotary spacers...
> 
> Luckily once I got most of the air out of my loop, the pump quieted right down. It wasn't vibrating the entire case so much as just very loud from the air bubbles passing through it at very high speeds.
Click to expand...

I used solid foam packing material to decouple mine. One per pump per side of the top.

Apologies for the quality of the pic. Took it with my Webcam which does better backed away from the subject.











The tubing in the picture is my drain tube couldn't be helped really.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A Little more progress...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is seriously badass B. Love it.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

On a $500 motherboard budget, which x79 motherboard should I get?


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> On a $500 motherboard budget, which x79 motherboard should I get?


Rampage IV Extreme.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I don't think you guy's are decoupling your pump much at all, use the Gel Stuff! This is how the D5 sounds properly decoupled, the stock pump top sounds noticeably louder. The Gentle Typhoons AP-15's are noticeably louder that both!
> Martins Pump Noise Testing Round 1


I get absolutely no noise from the PMP-400 pump I have mounted directly to my SR-1 radiator... except for the old school AMD CPU fan on the pump heat sink


----------



## nabarun




----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Im not sure I see how that is an equivalent to "gel stuff"


It makes a fantastic cheap pump decoupler.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nabarun*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you have any issues installing the EK backplate? I installed one on a GTX680 yesterday and it would not fit w/ the thermal pads EK included. It was too thick. Also the screws that hold the block in place were sticking up too high and were hitting the backplate. I had to remove all the washers on the block, then move down to 0.5mm thick thermal pads.


----------



## nabarun

nope not at all,

are you sure you followed the manual careful?


----------



## mandrix

Is the Bitspower Mod Top a worthwhile addition to the D5? Sure looks better than the stock pump.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nabarun*
> 
> nope not at all,
> are you sure you followed the manual careful?


It definitely couldn't be done if I followed their instructions. You can see here that there 0.5mm thermal pad fits perfectly, the 1mm stuff they included was definitely too high. There were also screw indentations on the backside of the backplate where the water block screws were hitting it. Maybe I just got a poor backplate.








The backplate does look awesome though.


----------



## simonfredette

I like the EK ones better though, the bitspower is still better than stock but I like the EK one for sure although now they are using the new circle style even for the pump tops .. yuck


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I like the EK ones better though, the bitspower is still better than stock but I like the EK one for sure although now they are using the new circle style even for the pump tops .. yuck


Seriously? Good grief they're going to run us into circle hell. If I go EK I'll have to think about that.....although truthfully the pump _may_ be hidden on the new build.


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah well I was looking to find a link to a picture of the EK one on dazmode and all I saw was the crop circle thing and between that one and the bitspower id take the bitspower but if you can find the old style ek one its worth taking a look at, and apparently it even helps performance because of the way it ''swirls ''


----------



## Way2grouchy

Thanks for adding me to the list B. I have never posted pics in here cuz the builds in here r awesome. Since u did add me to the list thought I would post some pics that were not just of my cpu block. Planning to add wc graphics card soon.

Sorry pics r not very good.


----------



## superericla

Looks like my review kit from Indigo Xtreme should arrive either tomorrow or Friday. I'll be sure to let everyone know how it performs!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Looks like my review kit from Indigo Xtreme should arrive either tomorrow or Friday. I'll be sure to let everyone know how it performs!


This is relevant to my interests.

Updates are a must...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is relevant to my interests.
> Updates are a must...


I'll be sure to take plenty of pictures.

Edit: I do want to confirm that there is no NDA on the preview sample they're sending me so I'll be able to post about it as soon as it arrives. I'll be the first person to review their new product, pretty exciting stuff.


----------



## Idef1x

As my first post on OCN, I posted a few dated pictures of my rig. These I just took today with my phone. The rig is an ongoing process, but almost complete now. The only part missing now is some mdpc, but I do not know when that will happen. Other than that I am actually quite satisfied with the rig atm.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As my first post on OCN, I posted a few dated pictures of my rig. These I just took today with my phone. The rig is an ongoing process, but almost complete now. The only part missing now is some mdpc, but I do not know when that will happen. Other than that I am actually quite satisfied with the rig atm.


I remember when this rig had blue tubing...


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> I remember when this rig had blue tubing...


Yeah, back then it housed my Asus P6T and an i7 920, which I recently replaced to a R4F and 3930k. As you noticed I changed all the tubing, but I also changed a few fittings, added the block on the mobo and cut the entire buttom out of the case, to provide better airflow


----------



## bomberjun

First of all. Its not mine.

I just want to share my friend's build here in the Philippines.









Such a humble person with a monstrous gaming rig.





EVGA Classified SR-2 + 2x Intel Xeon X5680
Corsair Dominator GT 2000MHz CL7 6G x2
Caselabs Magnum STH10, 3x EVGA GTX680 SC Signature
3x OCZ Vertex 2 120G Raid0 (Apps), 1x OCZ Vertex 3 120G (OS)
Thecus N2200 NAS plus 2x Samsung F3 1TB Raid0
Bitspower matte black compression fittings, Tygon Clear tubings
Dell U3011 30", Samsung 40" 3D LED TV
Silverstone Strider 1500W modular psu
LG CH08LS10 8x Blu-Ray Combo
X-Fi Titanium Fatality Pro, Logitech Z5500, Onkyo HT-S3400
Logitech G19 KB and Razer Mamba 4G/G9 mouse

Loop 1:
2x Bitspower Summit CPU blocks, 1 BlackFreezer SR-2 block, 2x DIMM6 Dominator blocks
1x Black Ice® SR1 480,1x Black Ice® SR1 360 plus 7x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm
2x MCP 655 plus Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top plus EK 250 Advance Res

Loop 2:
3x EVGA GTX680 Hydro Copper Waterblocks with Backplate
1x Black Ice® SR1 480, 4x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm, MCP355, XSPC Res Top


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Yeah well I was looking to find a link to a picture of the EK one on dazmode and all I saw was the crop circle thing and between that one and the bitspower id take the bitspower but if you can find the old style ek one its worth taking a look at, and apparently it even helps performance because of the way it ''swirls ''


I've seen pics of the old EK top. Is there any data anywhere on the EK & Bitspower tops vs stock D5 pumping ability? I'll look around, I'm mostly trying to get rid of that fugly black ring and reduce the size a little.


----------



## Dredknot

holy crap that is an amazing rig!! seriously wow.


----------



## protzman

his parents buy that for him?


----------



## axipher

I hate small loops and small reservoirs









I thought I had gotten rid of all the air bubbles, guess not. Every 5 minutes it manages to build up enough air in the top of the RAD to pop an air bubble that travels through my whole loop and makes the MCP350 go from being almost completely inaudible, to sounding like it's about to explode...


----------



## wot

Hi guys,
Any suggestions on my setup?








Loop order is - 250ml res -> d5 pump -> 360rad -> 480rad -> CPU -> GPU -> res.
I think to put a 240 "crossflow" rad at the bottom and move the pump.
Something like that: res -> pump 240 -> 360 -> GPU -> CPU -> 480 -> res? Also to change the AP15 fans with Noiseblocker pl2, because the BUZZ motor sound is killing me.









please excuse my cable management, my crapy camera and my bad english


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Hi guys,
> Any suggestions on my setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop order is - 250ml res -> d5 pump -> 360rad -> 480rad -> CPU -> GPU -> res.
> I think to put a 240 "crossflow" rad at the bottom and move the pump.
> Something like that: res -> pump 240 -> 360 -> GPU -> CPU -> 480 -> res? Also to change the AP15 fans with Noiseblocker pl2, because the BUZZ motor sound is killing me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please excuse my cable management, my crapy camera and my bad english


You really don't need to add any more rad with your current setup, doubt you would see any difference in temps by adding a 240, with the AP15's are you running a fan controller to lower fan speed/noise?


----------



## bundymania

A new CPU Block arrived today.......


----------



## simonfredette

looks pretty good ,not a huge fan of technical printing on the visible surface so much , I like it either decorated or simple , I use the raystorm and the in out writing always cathes my eye. I guess im just really picky


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> You really don't need to add any more rad with your current setup, doubt you would see any difference in temps by adding a 240, with the AP15's are you running a fan controller to lower fan speed/noise?


Ambient is 26C, water 29C at idle, full load 33C Yes I have aquaero lt - 800rpm for the AP15.


----------



## superericla

It ends up that the new single pack from Indigo Xtreme is the same product as the old package, but only provides one application. There are no gloves or CPU cleaning kit that come with the single pack, but it is otherwise the same product. The downside to having only a single application is that if reflow doesn't work successfully the first time, you're out of luck. Thankfully, I got it all up and working on the first try.

When removing my 5Noz water block, I noticed that the Prolimatech PK-1 I had on it had basically bonded the water block to the CPU so when I tried pulling the water block off, the CPU left its socket and stayed attached to the block. A quick twisting motion and some 99% alcohol later, it was all cleaned and ready for installation.

The process of installation is much more difficult than a typical TIM. First, you peel the backing off the package and stick it to the CPU, ensuring the CPU fits within the guide lines. Next, you peel the top covering off and apply the water block, making sure it stays as flat as possible. One more thing to note is that you do have to have the motherboard in a horizontal position from installation all the way through the reflow process. Once the block is installed, turn off all fans and the water pump and turn the computer on. Once the computer is on, you open any CPU core monitoring program and a stress program such as Prime95 and start stressing. The CPU temp will increase very quickly to what the directions say will be 80-85 degrees (was nearly 100 for me), then the temps will drop a bit and rise again, stabilizing back at 80-85 degrees (again, was nearly 100 in my test). Once that's complete, reflow was a success!

Reflowing the Indigo Xtreme:



Temps after installation:



Going from PK-1 to Indigo Xtreme, my full load temps have dropped ~2C. While it may not be worth the price to some, those wanting to squeeze every bit of performance out of their computer can benefit from Indigo Xtreme.


----------



## GoodInk

I know everything should go fine, but that reflowing setup scares the crap out of me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I know everything should go fine, but that reflowing setup scares the crap out of me.


+1

Even tho it wont hurt for a few seconds,i dunno....goes against everything i know.

And all for 2c?

on a side note...Om Nom Nom..


----------



## ugotd8

I've never done the reflow process but I've read that if for some reason your computer shuts down during the reflow process (thermal limit like going over 100C !?!?!) then that application is toast.

In regards to the 2C, the way I understand it, you could gain more or less depending on how well your current CPU/waterblock match up (I.E bowing, lapping, mount pressure, etc).


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> I've never done the reflow process but I've read that if for some reason your computer shuts down during the reflow process (thermal limit like going over 100C !?!?!) then that application is toast.


I was planning on getting T1000. I thought as soon as it hits 98c it more or less immediately re-flows, so even if the PC does shut itself down moments later, Wouldn't the process be finished? letgetreviews T1000 application

Also isn't there a way to disable all over temperature protection or 100c will shutdown a SB no matter what?


----------



## superericla

The thing is, my temps went down 2C at stock. They're probably much lower when it comes to an overclocked processor, I just can't overclock at the moment due to RAM issues. Indigo Xtreme gave me a 2011 socket application as well so within the next month I'll show full overclocking results on the 2011 socket with Indigo Xtreme.

Edit: I figured out my CPU block wasn't tightened further after applying Indigo Xtreme (something you do after the reflow). After tightening it a bit, I'm down 5C below where I was with PK-1. Much more worth it than the small 2C difference from before.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> I've never done the reflow process but I've read that if for some reason your computer shuts down during the reflow process (thermal limit like going over 100C !?!?!) then that application is toast.
> 
> 
> 
> I was planning on getting T1000. I thought as soon as it hits 98c it more or less immediately re-flows, so even if the PC does shut itself down moments later, Wouldn't the process be finished? letgetreviews T1000 application
> 
> Also isn't there a way to disable all over temperature protection or 100c will shutdown a SB no matter what?
Click to expand...

Most higher end MB's can, but I know I wouldn't. The temps on a water block can go up extremely fast compared to an air cooler. So fast that you could damage the CPU before you get the chance to shut it down. Best bet would be leaving all settings at stock.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Most higher end MB's can, but I know I wouldn't. The temps on a water block can go up extremely fast compared to an air cooler. So fast that you could damage the CPU before you get the chance to shut it down. Best bet would be leaving all settings at stock.


You set all settings to stock for reflow. With a water block it only takes ~30-40 seconds to do the reflow.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I was planning on getting T1000. I thought as soon as it hits 98c it more or less immediately re-flows, so even if the PC does shut itself down moments later, Wouldn't the process be finished? letgetreviews T1000 application
> Also isn't there a way to disable all over temperature protection or 100c will shutdown a SB no matter what?


I can say that my experience with Indigo xtreme wasn't the greatest... I wasted my $ for the two applications of indigo xtreme I tried. I ended up getting a large syringe of Prolimatech PK-1 and my problems were solved lol. I followed everything exactly as Indigo mentioned.... hit over 100C on my CPU after much more time than they said it would take there was no reflow. Upon inspection of each application maybe 2% of the metal actually "reflowed". Maybe I had a bad batch or something i dunno... but I doubt I will every get it again.

I'm sure more people have had positive experiences with it that I did though.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Got a surprise in the mail today from Performance-PCs. I finally got my EK angles, plugs, kill coils and biocide so I can finish my loop and start testing it.

What's the concensus on the amount of time to perform the preliminary leak test on a rig? ...Is it a few hours, a day, a couple of days... What?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> What's the concensus on the amount of time to perform the preliminary leak test on a rig? ...Is it a few hours, a day, a couple of days... What?


If you're new to water cooling, 24 hours. Otherwise I wait an hour or two. My loop isn't overly complex meaning I don't have to keep checking every connection for a possible leak. I also use quick disconnects so the only thing I have to keep an eye on is the last part I attached which is usually my GPU and CPU blocks.


----------



## phillyd

Spoiler: Test Bench by Dwood


----------



## fr0st.

So close! Just need my 360 rad to get here with a few fittings and cables, my PSU (almost here!) and my pump (also in the mail) to get here and I'm under way!

This is what I have so far


















EDIT: Linky in sig, if anyone's interested.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Test Bench by Dwood










That test bench is seeeeeexxxxxxxyyyyyy!!!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Well today is a brand new day, and after an hour of trying to figure out how to make my connections work, I pieced together a couple of 90 degree angles. As it turned out, the anchors for the CPU block were prohibiting me from installing any kind of fitting close to it. So this is what I came up with. As for the exiting port, I underestimated the size of the Bitspower fittings that I got, because 1) the circumference of the Monsoon compression fitting exceeds and extends beyond the perameters of the angle, and 2) that 90 degree angle doesn't swivel. So today, I ended up going back to Performance-PCs to buy more fittings to finish off that second connection. That one is a little more challenging, because the lower RIVE block sits closer to the motherboard than the CPU block, so I had to buy a couple of extensions of varying sizes... I'm a first time water cooler, so I'm allowed a mistake or two.









Anyway, here's what I came up with so far. and sorry for the bad cell phone pics:


----------



## ViperSB1

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Well today is a brand new day, and after an hour of trying to figure out how to make my connections work, I pieced together a couple of 90 degree angles. As it turned out, the anchors for the CPU block were prohibiting me from installing any kind of fitting close to it. So this is what I came up with. As for the exiting port, I underestimated the size of the Bitspower fittings that I got, because 1) the circumference of the Monsoon compression fitting exceeds and extends beyond the perameters of the angle, and 2) that 90 degree angle doesn't swivel. So today, I ended up going back to Performance-PCs to buy more fittings to finish off that second connection. That one is a little more challenging, because the lower RIVE block sits closer to the motherboard than the CPU block, so I had to buy a couple of extensions of varying sizes... I'm a first time water cooler, so I'm allowed a mistake or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, here's what I came up with so far. and sorry for the bad cell phone pics:






I working on my first build now and have been running into similar issues. Almost there though, should have it done end of this week hopefully. Your solution looks good to me


----------



## axipher

Looks as had as my mini loop was to do.



Spoiler: Rotary Spacer Madness


----------



## Derko1

Progress:


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Might as well pull that 200. It can't be doing much for your airflow.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Well today is a brand new day, and after an hour of trying to figure out how to make my connections work, I pieced together a couple of 90 degree angles. As it turned out, the anchors for the CPU block were prohibiting me from installing any kind of fitting close to it. So this is what I came up with. As for the exiting port, I underestimated the size of the Bitspower fittings that I got, because 1) the circumference of the Monsoon compression fitting exceeds and extends beyond the perameters of the angle, and 2) that 90 degree angle doesn't swivel. So today, I ended up going back to Performance-PCs to buy more fittings to finish off that second connection. That one is a little more challenging, because the lower RIVE block sits closer to the motherboard than the CPU block, so I had to buy a couple of extensions of varying sizes... I'm a first time water cooler, so I'm allowed a mistake or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, here's what I came up with so far. and sorry for the bad cell phone pics:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pretty sure all you need are 10mm and 20mm extension fittings. 10mm on the CPU block and 20mm on the FC block. That's what I have to do with mine to use my VGA fitting to connect the two.









~Ceadder


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Well today is a brand new day, and after an hour of trying to figure out how to make my connections work, I pieced together a couple of 90 degree angles. As it turned out, the anchors for the CPU block were prohibiting me from installing any kind of fitting close to it. So this is what I came up with. As for the exiting port, I underestimated the size of the Bitspower fittings that I got, because 1) the circumference of the Monsoon compression fitting exceeds and extends beyond the perameters of the angle, and 2) that 90 degree angle doesn't swivel. So today, I ended up going back to Performance-PCs to buy more fittings to finish off that second connection. That one is a little more challenging, because the lower RIVE block sits closer to the motherboard than the CPU block, so I had to buy a couple of extensions of varying sizes... I'm a first time water cooler, so I'm allowed a mistake or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, here's what I came up with so far. and sorry for the bad cell phone pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


\

You could always use two 45* angle fittings (one on the MOS block and one on the CPU) and go over/around the screw or use two 90*'s angled 10 or so degrees from eachother and just bend the 3/8" tubing to fit right. OR.... reroute the loop so you don't have that issue









Its kind of what I did on my MOS blocks (bend the 3/8" hose around the stand)


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ Might as well pull that 200. It can't be doing much for your airflow.


Just tried it and temps went up like 3C.... weird... maybe it's helping draw more air out since I've only got one exhaust fan?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure all you need are 10mm and 20mm extension fittings. 10mm on the CPU block and 20mm on the FC block. That's what I have to do with mine to use my VGA fitting to connect the two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That sounds comforting to know, because those are two of the three sizes I ended up buying today, along with two more right angles. And as luck would have it, I have just the right number of compresion fittings to finish the loop.

I have one other question for you (or anyone)... Should I be worried if one of the rotating 90 degree angles jiggles a bit? After I installed it on the upper block, but before I put on the compression fitting and hose, I was able to wiggle it around. Besides being able to rotate in whatever circumference I chose, it also moved slightly on another axis to where I was concerned that it might leak. Is this normal for a fitting, or is that a red flag that I should be concerned about?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That sounds comforting to know, because those are two of the three sizes I ended up buying today, along with two more right angles. And as luck would have it, I have just the right number of compresion fittings to finish the loop.
> I have one other question for you (or anyone)... Should I be worried if one of the rotating 90 degree angles jiggles a bit? After I installed it on the upper block, but before I put on the compression fitting and hose, I was able to wiggle it around. Besides being able to rotate in whatever circumference I chose, it also moved slightly on another axis to where I was concerned that it might leak. Is this normal for a fitting, or is that a red flag that I should be concerned about?


Rotaries do have some wiggle in them,nothing to be worried about.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Well today is a brand new day, and after an hour of trying to figure out how to make my connections work, I pieced together a couple of 90 degree angles. As it turned out, the anchors for the CPU block were prohibiting me from installing any kind of fitting close to it. So this is what I came up with. As for the exiting port, I underestimated the size of the Bitspower fittings that I got, because 1) the circumference of the Monsoon compression fitting exceeds and extends beyond the perameters of the angle, and 2) that 90 degree angle doesn't swivel. So today, I ended up going back to Performance-PCs to buy more fittings to finish off that second connection. That one is a little more challenging, because the lower RIVE block sits closer to the motherboard than the CPU block, so I had to buy a couple of extensions of varying sizes... I'm a first time water cooler, so I'm allowed a mistake or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, here's what I came up with so far. and sorry for the bad cell phone pics:


You might try rotating your cpu waterblock to make it easier on yourself... like so:


----------



## RKTGX95

Did anyone see the new Alphacool products at PPCS? (especially the 7970 gpu blocks and the black gpu heatsinks)


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Im about to add another block and radiator into my system and was wondering what my best option would be pump wise. Should I get another mcp 350 and a dual top for them and run them together or should I go for one mcp 655? The loop will be one 360mm radiator, my ek cpu block, one 240mm radiator, then lastly 2 ek blocks on my 7970s. What would you guys suggest?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> You might try rotating your cpu waterblock to make it easier on yourself... like so:


To be honest, I like uniformed and symetrical lines, which is why my loop has a sort of ying yang look to it. And rotating the block means that I'd have to reconfigure my loop, and also buy new tubing. My biggest focus right now is just to get this thing running. I started on this project 7 months ago, and I'm in the home stretch. Throwing that wrench in the machinery will definitely drive me to setting this project aside once again.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Did anyone see the new Alphacool products at PPCS? (especially the 7970 gpu blocks and the black gpu heatsinks)


Yeah, they look sweet. The copper and black just works very well together, and I can't wait for someone to do a copper+black build, either with black tubing/coolant or copper tubes!


----------



## CircuitFreak

Well new tubing and fittings for Father's Days from my wife and lil' girl and here's what ya get.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Yeah, they look sweet. The copper and black just works very well together, and I can't wait for someone to do a copper+black build, either with black tubing/coolant or copper tubes!


i agree, but i think it will be a problem to do a build like this right. (and i havnt seen the copper compressions yet...)


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*
> 
> Well new tubing and fittings for Father's Days from my wife and lil' girl and here's what ya get.


Looking back at all the nice looking examples out there (this one included), I wish I would have gone the full on UV plumming and hardware route.


----------



## Bigm

Hey going to take the plunge into water sometime within the next 2-3 months, anyone got a good guide for a total n00b?


----------



## Plutonium10

Hello everybody. I've been lurking this thread for weeks but just decided to join OCN today. I'm planning on building my first liquid-cooled computer sometime during the summer with an i5-3570k or an i7-3770k and this thread has been such an amazing source of information (I read a few dozen pages every day). Seems like a good community full of helpful people.


----------



## CircuitFreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigm*
> 
> Hey going to take the plunge into water sometime within the next 2-3 months, anyone got a good guide for a total n00b?


Check the essentials thread at the top of the water cooling forums.

If you have any questions of "this pump vs that pump" or "this block" vs "this other block" use the forums search or even Google " D5 vs DDC"( types of pumps) will turn up something in this forum or one of the big sites. Search is your friend. I would buy search a drink if I ever met them.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've learned a whole lot from Youtube as well. Lots of great build logs with detailed installation guides on there....


----------



## Plutonium10

Ok, so here is my plan so far for my i5-3570k build...

Case: Corsair 650D
Pump: Swiftech MPC-35B or Swiftech MPC-35X
Res: XSPC dual bay
Rad: Swiftech MCR220-XP
CPU block: Swiftech Apogee HD
Fans: Scythe Gentle Typhoon (2 or 4, not sure what RPM)
Tubing: PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black or Clear
Coolant: Distilled water with or without blue Mayhems dye

Really liking the Swiftech stuff from the reviews I've been reading. The only thing really left to decide is if I should get black tubing or clear with some blue Mayhems dye. I will research that more tomorrow. Any suggestions?


----------



## CircuitFreak

I'm not knocking on Mayhem's Dyes as I would buy them myself based on his reputation alone, but if you spill dye it stains. If you design your loop right with a good clean drain spot you should be OK with a dye and clear tubing. Otherwise go buy the color tubing you want.


----------



## Plutonium10

Ok, thanks. I haven't quite decided where to put my drain port yet so I'll take that into consideration. I Really just need a pale blue to sort of match the Asus z77 mobo and Corsair Vengeance blue colour.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Ok, thanks. I haven't quite decided where to put my drain port yet so I'll take that into consideration. I Really just need a pale blue to sort of match the Asus z77 mobo and Corsair Vengeance blue colour.


Any sort of blue lighting in the case will make the heatsinks match primochill blue uv tubes. I'm running the raystorm, and 2 blue LED fans, and they make the tubing and heatsinks match in the light. I am not running any UV lights in my case though, just the blue LED light emitted from the raystorm and fans.

Hope that helps ya a bit









For reference:


----------



## Plutonium10

Yeah, I see what you mean.


----------



## solidshark91493

Has anyone else been to monsoon's website lately? They have a bunch of new product and what have you in there, Their own res, tubing, tubing cutter, the fittings, specialty plugs, Their own fluid and the rotaries! :O
http://www.monsooncooling.com


----------



## Bigm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*
> 
> Check the essentials thread at the top of the water cooling forums.
> If you have any questions of "this pump vs that pump" or "this block" vs "this other block" use the forums search or even Google " D5 vs DDC"( types of pumps) will turn up something in this forum or one of the big sites. Search is your friend. I would buy search a drink if I ever met them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've learned a whole lot from Youtube as well. Lots of great build logs with detailed installation guides on there....


Thanks, didn't even notice the essentials thread









And I'll check out Youtube for sure.


----------



## vincent198

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Has anyone else been to monsoon's website lately? They have a bunch of new product and what have you in there, Their own res, tubing, tubing cutter, the fittings, specialty plugs, Their own fluid and the rotaries! :O
> http://www.monsooncooling.com


I love their products, but i just can't afford them.

Btw. i really like their website


----------



## Fonne

Monsoon is really making some new stuff, could be a big player in the future ?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*


Monsoon labels this as a Modular Reservoir... I want to know what they mean by modular


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Monsoon labels this as a Modular Reservoir... I want to know what they mean by modular


Probably the multiple in/out ports - similar to Aquacomputer's Airplex Modularity System.


----------



## solidshark91493

I might go with their tubing if it proves itself B|


----------



## Ceadderman

Sadly they don't have white yet. This company seems to be the one that supplies Danger Den with quite a few things. That tubing cutter for one, is the exact same cutter that carries the Danger Den logo on the hinge area. There is no hinge cap on theirs. I rather like my bread knife cutter though, just noticed the similarities in how they're set up.









I think that by Modular they mean you can run with or without the pump.










I really would like a couple of the 45 comps and a couple light plugs to light my tubing up with some UV blue. That would look crazy sick with the Red Mood lighting.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Won't be too long now boys!!!!


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Won't be too long now boys!!!!


Very nice sir i can't wait.....will you be making watercool build log for yourself?....either way i would love to see how you first watercooled rig comes out, i think it will be fantastic


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Won't be too long now boys!!!!


That looks like a fun weekend. Grats.









Is that one of the new BP Summit waterblocks on the left ? If so, good choice.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Won't be too long now boys!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


About time you went water huh? I'm right behind you, prob ordering tomorrow night \m/


----------



## ViperSB1

Ok, been working hard on re-doing my loop. Added 2 more rads and 3 gpu blocks. I have the loop completed but have not filled with water yet, take a look and let me know if it looks good to you guys. I would appreciate any suggestions as this is my first WC build. Pictures are pretty bad, I will post some better ones once I get the system put back together. Thanks!


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigm*
> 
> Thanks, didn't even notice the essentials thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'll check out Youtube for sure.


Also the website I buy from ( canada ) has a huge tutorial video section and goes piece b piece , how to select rad , pump , res , block etc, dont mind his accent but its nice to have all the vids in one spot !

Go to the tutorials one , top left , http://www.dazmode.com/reviews/


----------



## LiquidHaus




----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sadly they don't have white yet. This company seems to be the one that supplies Danger Den with quite a few things. That tubing cutter for one, is the exact same cutter that carries the Danger Den logo on the hinge area. There is no hinge cap on theirs. I rather like my bread knife cutter though, just noticed the similarities in how they're set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that by Modular they mean you can run with or without the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really would like a couple of the 45 comps and a couple light plugs to light my tubing up with some UV blue. That would look crazy sick with the Red Mood lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hm, Kinda wondering if I should ditch the Frozen Q helix res from my plans.. theirs looks pretty awesome.. |
Some deets on their new stuff would be keen.


----------



## audioholic

Trying to find the right placement for everything. Need some 90 degree fittings I think to make this work the way I want to...

And here is with the cover on. Obviously I will be doing some more work to make room for the tubing


----------



## Lazy Bear

That looks awesome so far, I love small form factor builds! I also think that cover really makes it look clean and organised, what kind of case is that? Are you only cooling the CPU? If you're cooling a GPU as well you could probably fit a 120 rad on the back bit.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Won't be too long now boys!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tell me kind sir, what is that picture behind these computer components?


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> That looks awesome so far, I love small form factor builds! I also think that cover really makes it look clean and organised, what kind of case is that? Are you only cooling the CPU? If you're cooling a GPU as well you could probably fit a 120 rad on the back bit.


Its a NZXT Vulcan. Im pretty sure the back is only an 80mm not a 120..but maybe some modding could be done to make it fit. Its kind of hard to see be that cover says VULCAN on it


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Its a NZXT Vulcan. Im pretty sure the back is only an 80mm not a 120..but maybe some modding could be done to make it fit. Its kind of hard to see be that cover says VULCAN on it


The back fan of the Vulcan is 92MM


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> The back fan of the Vulcan is 92MM


Thanks


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Thanks


I used a BLACK ice 80mm Rad in the back when I did my Vulcan.
They do make a 92mm one, But I couldn't obtain one:


----------



## simonfredette

those are tiny , im surprise you manage them without kinks in the tubing , whats the OD on those ?


----------



## (sic)

I have plans to do a better photo shoot, but this is one with the crappy driod.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> those are tiny , im surprise you manage them without kinks in the tubing , whats the OD on those ?


5/8


----------



## ginger_nuts

@ Moutain Dew - You seem to have a natural art at making things look great.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> @ Moutain Dew - You seem to have a natural art at making things look great.


Thanks man, working with the Vulcan was a PAIN in the butt. But the end result made a great LAN rig.


----------



## superericla

i7-3820 on the way, RIVE coming soon...


----------



## Dredknot

Decided to mod my case and move the res to the backside to show it off more. gonna switch to a different tubing here soon so i had to manage with what i had left over. looks decent though. massive corrosion on my new EK EN nickel 580 blocks though so thats a major bummer


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Welp, A/C unit in my house decided to take a crap so the build is going to be delayed.


----------



## simonfredette

That sucks man , I had car issues in the middle of a build , delayed me a couple months I was really annoyed , you think of the 1000$ you just spent on the car and what you could have bought for your rig at that price instead. . You can never know when these things happen though.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*


Cut that grill out main


----------



## mannyfc

Got a new fan and some extensions


----------



## audioholic

How 90 degrees are the Bitspower barbs?
I was thinking of doing my placement here for my pump. Will those make the squeeze?


The power cord sits right up against the PSU. And luckily I dont need any of the PCIe power its covering.
I am also trying to think of a spot to put a drain plug. I have a fill port on the top of the case. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated!

Or as a second option do I get another microres with the port on the bottom? and just go for a 90 on the pump?
thank!


----------



## Alsisgevat

Here is my rig, only gpu watercooled, and instead of 90 degree fittings I used two 45 degree's.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> How 90 degrees are the Bitspower barbs?
> I was thinking of doing my placement here for my pump. Will those make the squeeze?
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2558987/width/600/height/400/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The power cord sits right up against the PSU. And luckily I dont need any of the PCIe power its covering.
> I am also trying to think of a spot to put a drain plug. I have a fill port on the top of the case. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated!
> Or as a second option do I get another microres with the port on the bottom? and just go for a 90 on the pump?
> thank!


What might work for that is the Enzo 90 degree barb fittings, kinda like what I did here only vertical instead of horizontal obv.

NM, not sure which fitting is which on that pump. If the top fitting is inlet, just get a 90 degree barb. The outlet doesn't look like it's going to be fun.


----------



## audioholic

Front is the inlet ...forgot to mention that sorry


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Front is the inlet ...forgot to mention that sorry


Oh, so then what about something like this, only vertical instead of horizontal ?


----------



## audioholic

Exactly what I was thinking. I think that would work perfect


----------



## jagz

Since I'm struggling to get straight answers in the thread I made

7/16" tube and 7/16" compression fittings are correct right?

Also what type of temp diff you think i'd be looking at if I went with a 360 rad over a 240 rad? & 17.4 - 19mm clamps will work right? FrozenCPU says the Phobya 3/4" work on 7/16" tube


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Since I'm struggling to get straight answers in the thread I made
> 7/16" tube and 7/16" compression fittings are correct right?
> Also what type of temp diff you think i'd be looking at if I went with a 360 rad over a 240 rad? & 17.4 - 19mm clamps will work right? FrozenCPU says the Phobya 3/4" work on 7/16" tube


I think your struggling to get answers because youre either not giving all the required info or using wrong lingo lol, with compression fittings you need to get fitting with the same ID( interior diameter) and OD (outer diameter ) as your tubing example : 3/8 ID 1/2 OD requires 3/8 -1/2 , and we cant give you answer on your temps without know what is in your loop , I mean in any case more rad means more time with airflow going through it.. lastly , why do you need clamps if your using compression fittings , its compression fitting OR barbs and clamps.


----------



## audioholic

Little updated photo I just threw together some tubing to show my positioning.


So those 90s will work right there?
Thanks again!


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I think your struggling to get answers because youre either not giving all the required info or using wrong lingo lol, with compression fittings you need to get fitting with the same ID( interior diameter) and OD (outer diameter ) as your tubing example : 3/8 ID 1/2 OD requires 3/8 -1/2 , and we cant give you answer on your temps without know what is in your loop , I mean in any case more rad means more time with airflow going through it.. lastly , why do you need clamps if your using compression fittings , its compression fitting OR barbs and clamps.


^this. another example is - if tubing is 7/16" ID 5/8" OD compression fittings will be 7/16" ID 5/8" OD.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> So those 90s will work right there?
> Thanks again!thumb.gif


so you want to do something like this , looks kinda tight but I think that could work as long as the tubing wouldnt kink since its not perfectly aligned like it was on the previous cpu block pic ..


----------



## audioholic

Sorry to flood the thread, but would it be better to get a 90 with a barb already? I have extra "stubby" barbs so I could just go with the barbless kind. Is it like everything else and just a matter of preference?


----------



## simonfredette

you mean barb vs compression fitting ? or barb with lock clamp vs bard without .. I think the clamps on the barbs are just extra insurance , Ive never used barbs but with the amount of $ in our rigs id definitely clamp a barb even if it seems tight enough.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Sorry to flood the thread, but would it be better to get a 90 with a barb already? I have extra "stubby" barbs so I could just go with the barbless kind. Is it like everything else and just a matter of preference?


I suppose it's preference, but I prefer one less point of possible failure. Also, we are only talking the difference of a dollar or two literally. And one more thing, the fittings I use are rotary, so those two ports you are trying to plumb don't have to be in perfect line with each other.


----------



## audioholic

Well turns out my friend has 4 BP shining 90s....so he is going to mail those to me....cant argue with free


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> So those 90s will work right there?
> Thanks again!thumb.gif
> 
> 
> 
> so you want to do something like this , looks kinda tight but I think that could work as long as the tubing wouldnt kink since its not perfectly aligned like it was on the previous cpu block pic ..
Click to expand...

Why not use the bottom outlet of reservoir instead and loose one 90 degree fitting.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I think your struggling to get answers because youre either not giving all the required info or using wrong lingo lol, with compression fittings you need to get fitting with the same ID( interior diameter) and OD (outer diameter ) as your tubing example : 3/8 ID 1/2 OD requires 3/8 -1/2 , and we cant give you answer on your temps without know what is in your loop , I mean in any case more rad means more time with airflow going through it.. lastly , why do you need clamps if your using compression fittings , its compression fitting OR barbs and clamps.


I could be using the wrong lingo since I've never gone WC but I have explained what's in the loop, everything's also clear in the shopping cart. Your last question should be apparent too, for I'm not compression fitting things in the Q block as i'm ordering it with 1/2" Barb Fitting which would require those clamps.

Thanks for the clarification though, See I didn't even know what ID/OD stood for, and the added dimensions only confused me more, lol.


----------



## audioholic

Yea that's what I'm thinking will work. I'll take some more pictures when I get the fittings in.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I could be using the wrong lingo since I've never gone WC but I have explained what's in the loop, everything's also clear in the shopping cart. Your last question should be apparent too, for I'm not compression fitting things in the Q block as i'm ordering it with 1/2" Barb Fitting which would require those clamps.
> Thanks for the clarification though, See I didn't even know what ID/OD stood for, and the added dimensions only confused me more, lol.


YYeah I see the cart now , always order the clamps with the barbs for sure though , at that price its worth the peace of mind , and if frozen says it fits than it probably does.. the barb clamps squeeze quite a bit and they stretch a lot too so it makes sense that they would fit on many sizes. I thought about using barbs in the places on my rig you cant see to save a bit of money, that way I could go monsoon fittings on the places you can see since they are pretty $$


----------



## KaRLiToS

Can someone tell me if this combination will work:

EK 7970 DC2T Block + EK 7970 Reference Block + EK bridge

Someone just mentionned it in another Thread ( It wont work)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Can someone tell me if this combination will work:
> EK 7970 DC2T Block + EK 7970 Reference Block + EK bridge
> Someone just mentionned it in another Thread ( *It wont work*)


Ports look pretty different compared to where gpu is, so you is right my friend







:





vs


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> So those 90s will work right there?
> Thanks again!thumb.gif
> 
> 
> 
> so you want to do something like this , looks kinda tight but I think that could work as long as the tubing wouldnt kink since its not perfectly aligned like it was on the previous cpu block pic ..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> So those 90s will work right there?
> Thanks again!thumb.gif
> 
> 
> 
> so you want to do something like this , looks kinda tight but I think that could work as long as the tubing wouldnt kink since its not perfectly aligned like it was on the previous cpu block pic ..
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why not use the bottom outlet of reservoir instead and loose one 90 degree fitting.
Click to expand...

Flip that Res so the top barb is your outlet. Leaving the other two for inlet purposes. I think that's how it's supposed to work anyway.

Then use an extension and a 90 barb to line up the Res outlet and the pump inlet. Problem solved?









~Ceadder


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Flip that Res so the top barb is your outlet. Leaving the other two for inlet purposes. I think that's how it's supposed to work anyway.
> Then use an extension and a 90 barb to line up the Res outlet and the pump inlet. Problem solved?
> 
> I was going to use the top for a fill port. My buddy is sending me 4 90s so I have options available. I'll do some different positions and see which one works best.
> Thanks Ceadder


----------



## audioholic

I don't know what happened but all that last message was a quote..iPad can be a hassle sometimes


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Flip that Res so the top barb is your outlet. Leaving the other two for inlet purposes. I think that's how it's supposed to work anyway.
> Then use an extension and a 90 barb to line up the Res outlet and the pump inlet. Problem solved?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's how the micro res is traditional position (and instructed my Swiftech). I'm sure you can flip it upside down but the inside plane is there to reduce swirl.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's how the micro res is traditional position (and instructed my Swiftech). I'm sure you can flip it upside down but the inside plane is there to reduce swirl.


See I never got instructions as my friend gave it to me and I never thought of looking it up. So I am upside down? Or it's currently correct?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's how the micro res is traditional position (and instructed my Swiftech). I'm sure you can flip it upside down but the inside plane is there to reduce swirl.
> 
> 
> 
> See I never got instructions as my friend gave it to me and I never thought of looking it up. So I am upside down? Or it's currently correct?
Click to expand...

Upside down. The ledge is there to prevent cavitation/bubbles when you're only partially filled and to keep your system flowing smoothly.









~Ceadder


----------



## audioholic

What about filling it?


----------



## wermad

That pic shows it in the right position (per the Swiftech emblem/name)


----------



## audioholic

Ok thanks wermad...I was google imaging and it looked right. I was confused...my 90s should be here soon..will update. I do have some play with moving the res more and the pump can move more also so lining up should not be an issue


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> I used a BLACK ice 80mm Rad in the back when I did my Vulcan.
> They do make a 92mm one, But I couldn't obtain one:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


dude, 80mm rad is so cute! I have thought about getting a 92mm rad if I purchased the factual core 1000 case..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Decided to mod my case and move the res to the backside to show it off more. gonna switch to a different tubing here soon so i had to manage with what i had left over. looks decent though. massive corrosion on my new EK EN nickel 580 blocks though so thats a major bummer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mate, RAD in front, its 200mm? BTW Your setups is awesome!


----------



## zdude

Day and a half and you guys manage to produce 70 posts ???? geez no wonder why i check this thread like evey 10 min when i am in town


----------



## Cyanide1

Not the greatest build (imo) but im happy with it....for now lol. And sorry for shotty pictures, really hard to take with memory led's on.

CM HAF932
CM 700w
i7 920
crucial ballistix tracer 6gb
LG dvd 24x
evga x58 SLI LE
WD velociraptor 150gb
WD caviar blue 320gb
WD caviar black 1tb

evga gtx580 classified hydro copper 2 3g
EK NB/SB block
watercool 3.0 cpu block
EK bay spin res
2- swiftech mcp355
EK dual top
Swiftech Radiator - MCR120
Swiftech Radiator - MCR360
Lamptron FC6 fan controller


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> dude, 80mm rad is so cute! I have thought about getting a 92mm rad if I purchased the factual core 1000 case..
> Mate, RAD in front, its 200mm? BTW Your setups is awesome!


Thanks! Yes its a phobya 200mm rad with a nzxt high performance 200mm fan


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> *dude, 80mm rad is so cute*! I have thought about getting a 92mm rad if I purchased the factual core 1000 case..
> Mate, RAD in front, its 200mm? BTW Your setups is awesome!


Yes it is cute.
And funny enough
I have one of these as well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Thanks! Yes its a *phobya 200mm rad* with a nzxt high performance 200mm fan


COMPARISON TIME!


Yes its dusty.
My Air compressor broke. and I am yet to replace it.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Yes its dusty.
> My Air compressor broke. and I am yet to replace it.


Pow!

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Pow!
> http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/


NTY. I'm going to buy my fathers


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> NTY. I'm going to buy my fathers


$7.97 using *this guide*.

Missed your edit.


----------



## A Bad Day

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Pow!
> http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/


My dad's response: Vacuum cleaner

He hasn't noticed how ineffective a vacuum cleaner when it comes to cleaning dusty laptops, especially for heatsinks. He's a stubborn man.


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Yes it is cute.
> And funny enough
> I have one of these as well
> COMPARISON TIME!
> 
> Yes its dusty.
> My Air compressor broke. and I am yet to replace it.


Lol that's nothin' mine was SOO dusty lol. Couldn't clean it with a can of air lol


----------



## Dredknot

Edit


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Thanks! Yes its a phobya 200mm rad with a nzxt high performance 200mm fan


Mate, Ahh, I got it.. Yes I seen NZXT FAN with 200mm Rad in RIG's front that looks so amazing sexy!







Honestly, You are first person to put the 200mm RAD in HAF-X's front. that's awesome inspiring and applause!


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Pow!
> http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/


nice one


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A Bad Day*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Pow!
> http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/
> 
> 
> 
> My dad's response: Vacuum cleaner
> 
> He hasn't noticed how ineffective a vacuum cleaner when it comes to cleaning dusty laptops, especially for heatsinks. He's a stubborn man.
Click to expand...

So is my brother. lol

I use a soft bristle paint brush and a can of air for the most part. I really gotta get one of those blower vacs though.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So is my brother. lol
> *I use a soft bristle paint brush and a can of air for the most part*. I really gotta get one of those blower vacs though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This^
Vac cleaners are not really recommended,they are static electricity generators...I dont want ESD damage ,stick to the brush and can Ceadderman.

Thread UPDATED.
Welcome to all the new watercoolers.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Yes it is cute.
> And funny enough
> I have one of these as well
> COMPARISON TIME!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes its dusty.
> My Air compressor broke. and I am yet to replace it.


Hmmm, I can probably fit a 200mm rad in my Antec 1200, Think I should go with one over a 240 rad? I already have the big boy fan & it would prob fit quite well up top.. hmmm


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Hmmm, I can probably fit a 200mm rad in my Antec 1200, Think I should go with one over a 240 rad? I already have the big boy fan & it would prob fit quite well up top.. hmmm


Antec do this 200mm rad. specifically for the 1200 case.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Hmmm, I can probably fit a 200mm rad in my Antec 1200, Think I should go with one over a 240 rad? I already have the big boy fan & it would prob fit quite well up top.. hmmm


120mm<200mm fans
I'd go with the 240 if you can
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Antec do this 200mm rad. specifically for the 1200 case.


Eh, They are pretty bad from what I remember


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Hmmm, I can probably fit a 200mm rad in my Antec 1200, Think I should go with one over a 240 rad? I already have the big boy fan & it would prob fit quite well up top.. hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 120mm<200mm fans
> I'd go with the 240 if you can
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Antec do this 200mm rad. specifically for the 1200 case.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Eh, They are pretty bad from what I remember
Click to expand...

Actually from what I've seen a 200 is better than a 240. Mostly due to FPI being small and the cooling surface has more tubes across it than most 240s' of the same price.

And yeah no way would I buy an Antec 200 Radiator. For one the fittings are part of the unit unless you cut them off and tap the openings. Why would I do that when I can just get a Phobya 200 or even a 180 Radiator? If I get my Dremel soon, I think I'm gonna do the 180 so I won't have to cut into the 5.25 bays to fit the 245mm long 200mm Radiator. Either way I hope to be adding another in the future so I can cool my Crossfire setup when I get the cards under water.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Decided to mod my case and move the res to the backside to show it off more. gonna switch to a different tubing here soon so i had to manage with what i had left over. looks decent though. massive corrosion on my new EK EN nickel 580 blocks though so thats a major bummer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks kind of like a barber pole or a huge candy cane hanging on the back. Looks cool, though.


----------



## Dredknot

Haha totally! Next upgrade will be clear side panel and some 4gb 680s


----------



## Ninja Hedgehog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually from what I've seen a 200 is better than a 240. Mostly due to FPI being small and the cooling surface has more tubes across it than most 240s' of the same price.
> And yeah no way would I buy an Antec 200 Radiator. For one the fittings are part of the unit unless you cut them off and tap the openings. Why would I do that when I can just get a Phobya 200 or even a 180 Radiator? If I get my Dremel soon, I think I'm gonna do the 180 so I won't have to cut into the 5.25 bays to fit the 245mm long 200mm Radiator. Either way I hope to be adding another in the future so I can cool my Crossfire setup when I get the cards under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I believe it's aluminium as well.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## bomberjun

Just an update.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are these the polished versions or the brushed ones? (btw, very cool and original backplate design dont you think?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Just an update.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i think this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














or this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














would have been better for the color scheme of your loop.


----------



## bomberjun

If only those reservoirs are available here in the Philippines, I wont hesitate to get one. However, i m good with my ek multioption advance res.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This^
> Vac cleaners are not really recommended,they are static electricity generators...I dont want ESD damage ,stick to the brush and can Ceadderman.
> Thread UPDATED.
> Welcome to all the new watercoolers.


I use my air compressor out in the garage. At around 70 psi no dust can hide!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I use my air compressor out in the garage. At around 70 psi no dust can hide!


Make sure you have a regulator and trap,you will get a small amount of water or oil in the airstream otherwise....hydrovane compressor are the worst for this.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Dang, anybody knows if EK are changing their design totally to the newer DSQ design or if they are going to do two separate lines, one with the the older "normal" design and a line of DSQ products? Want to shop some stuff, but not now and i don't like the new DSQ design and specially not the frosted plexi.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Make sure you have a regulator and trap,you will get a small amount of water or oil in the airstream otherwise....hydrovane compressor are the worst for this.



Solution


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm afraid the CSQ design will be all that they make anymore...


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm afraid the CSQ design will be all that they make anymore...


Thanks for the info! They should do two product lines instead, oh well, time for some shopping before all the old ones is out of stock.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Thanks for the info! They should do two product lines instead, oh well, time for some shopping before all the old ones is out of stock.


Unfortunately that would most likely not be cost effective for them


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Thanks for the info! They should do two product lines instead, oh well, time for some shopping before all the old ones is out of stock.


theyre already really rare , people are jumping on supremes left and right, if you want to do some shopping look at the new line of heatkiller and aquacomputers , or raystorm for cpu block


----------



## pcnoob1

So for those who don't know my sig has been down for the past year or so and I just let it run down. I decided it was time to rebuild it. The "glory days" pics are before I had the third card or any of the gpu waterblocks. Its in a different layout as well.

In her glory days:









The aftermath:

























Some pimp juice:









and this is the ****box i've been using.

















After getting the panels wrapped.

































Finally got it up and running. There's still some things I want to do. Like the etching on the top panel, wrapping the back panel in zebra and sleeving a few things. But for now this will do .

Here's my fruity tubing

























Finally getting to the good stuff. I think some zebra around the cpu's waterblock would be a nice touch..

















Should i put some zebra around the chrome? Maybe just put sexual safari in a rugged looking font.

















sexy

























and last but not least:


----------



## wermad

I could have sworn your MM was sold







. Anyways, nice rebirth


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually from what I've seen a 200 is better than a 240. Mostly due to FPI being small and the cooling surface has more tubes across it than most 240s' of the same price.
> And yeah no way would I buy an Antec 200 Radiator. For one the fittings are part of the unit unless you cut them off and tap the openings. Why would I do that when I can just get a Phobya 200 or even a 180 Radiator? If I get my Dremel soon, I think I'm gonna do the 180 so I won't have to cut into the 5.25 bays to fit the 245mm long 200mm Radiator. Either way I hope to be adding another in the future so I can cool my Crossfire setup when I get the cards under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm strongly considering going with 180/200mm rad now. I won't have to hack up the top of my case this way. The magicool's any good? PerformancePC's don't have the Phobya, but I could always order it from FrozenCPU i'd just have to pay more shipping <.< Think I could get away with using my "big boy" 200mm fan on it?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

How well do you think two 180mm radiators would cool an i7 3820 and a GTX 690?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are these the polished versions or the brushed ones? (btw, very cool and original backplate design dont you think?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Just an update.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i think this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would have been better for the color scheme of your loop.
Click to expand...

1) Polished. No brushed ones throw off that kind of reflection at the angle shown.

2) Not too keen on that backplate design. Backplates serve two purposes one of which is the more functional and that is hiding the PCB of the Graphics Card. The initial look is secsy enough but then the solder points around it are a bit of a letdown.









Love the black full cover block though. That's simply gorgeous.







:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I use my air compressor out in the garage. At around 70 psi no dust can hide!
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you have a regulator and trap,you will get a small amount of water or oil in the airstream otherwise....hydrovane compressor are the worst for this.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Make sure you have a regulator and trap,you will get a small amount of water or oil in the airstream otherwise....hydrovane compressor are the worst for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solution
Click to expand...

This. I would never recommend a compressor for blowing dust off any computer. I know people do it but most of them probably have the money to care less and replace the system if they botch it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually from what I've seen a 200 is better than a 240. Mostly due to FPI being small and the cooling surface has more tubes across it than most 240s' of the same price.
> And yeah no way would I buy an Antec 200 Radiator. For one the fittings are part of the unit unless you cut them off and tap the openings. Why would I do that when I can just get a Phobya 200 or even a 180 Radiator? If I get my Dremel soon, I think I'm gonna do the 180 so I won't have to cut into the 5.25 bays to fit the 245mm long 200mm Radiator. Either way I hope to be adding another in the future so I can cool my Crossfire setup when I get the cards under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm strongly considering going with 180/200mm rad now. I won't have to hack up the top of my case this way. The magicool's any good? PerformancePC's don't have the Phobya, but I could always order it from FrozenCPU i'd just have to pay more shipping <.< Think I could get away with using my "big boy" 200mm fan on it?
Click to expand...

PPCs does have the Phobya too. You just have to search by Manufacturer to find it. I believe the Magicool Rads are pretty good too considering that people are dropping 360 units in the bottom of their Silverstone cases. Tom Logan uses them for the Silverstone case and he cobbled a video together to show how he did it.









If I could get away with the Phobya 200 unit, I'd rather go with that since I have a reasonable 200 to put on it. The only way to know for sure if I can is to drill out the HDD cage and then measure the vacated space. But for simplicity's sake I'll probably go with the 180 unit and get a 180 to go in front of it as Pull.









Pretty sure that a Bigboy 200 won't fit without modification though. ;0

~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How well do you think two 180mm radiators would cool an i7 3820 and a GTX 690?
> Jeffinslaw


Depends on the thickness.

I would say not enough but close. I would add another Radiator.

You have 180mm x 2 = so 360mm

In my book, 360mm Rad is good for one CPU and one GPU, now you have two GPUs.


----------



## Fonne

Have any seen this beast ? - *Razor GTX690








*



http://www.xs-pc.com/slider/razor-gtx690/


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm afraid the CSQ design will be all that they make anymore...


Don't even worry, embrace the circles







I got mine and MAAAAAYYYYN they look good








Tbh if they are pointed downwards anyways like in mostly cases, what's to worry about!!


----------



## zdude

well just picked up a old EK supreme HF for $40 off EVGA marketplace







used but I don't really care, no crop circles


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This. I would never recommend a compressor for blowing dust off any computer. I know people do it but most of them probably have the money to care less and replace the system if they botch it.


Unless I am mistaken this one is made specifically to be safe for electronics. Plus you don't have to worry about freezing electronics if you angle it wrong.


----------



## npo717

Hi there everyone. New to water cooling and this site (as in this is my first post and I put everything together this weekend... first attempt) and thought I would throw my new toy into the bunch here. Plan on posting up my build log and thoughts at some point too.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *npo717*
> 
> Hi there everyone. New to water cooling and this site (as in this is my first post and I put everything together this weekend... first attempt) and thought I would throw my new toy into the bunch here. Plan on posting up my build log and thoughts at some point too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How long is your Power Supply that you couldnt place the bottom rad the other way around?


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Unfortunately that would most likely not be cost effective for them


Yeah i know, but imo tha old looks better and fits most systems, the newer design isn't as universal, especially the frosted plexi.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> theyre already really rare , people are jumping on supremes left and right, if you want to do some shopping look at the new line of heatkiller and aquacomputers , or raystorm for cpu block


Just noticed the old stuff is almost out of stock or even removed everywhere, happily I've got one of the old HF CPU blocks. But i wanted the old D5 top, old dual bay res and the old GTX680 block.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Depends on the thickness.
> I would say not enough but close. I would add another Radiator.
> You have 180mm x 2 = so 360mm
> In my book, 360mm Rad is good for one CPU and one GPU, now you have two GPUs.


Not quite -- two 180mm radiators yields about 64,800 sq. mm of area, whereas a 360mm radiator (3x120mm) yields about 30% less area (43,200 sq. mm).

Two 180mms should be ample to cool a 3820 and 690.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> PPCs does have the Phobya too. You just have to search by Manufacturer to find it. I believe the Magicool Rads are pretty good too considering that people are dropping 360 units in the bottom of their Silverstone cases. Tom Logan uses them for the Silverstone case and he cobbled a video together to show how he did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could get away with the Phobya 200 unit, I'd rather go with that since I have a reasonable 200 to put on it. The only way to know for sure if I can is to drill out the HDD cage and then measure the vacated space. But for simplicity's sake I'll probably go with the 180 unit and get a 180 to go in front of it as Pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure that a Bigboy 200 won't fit without modification though. ;0
> ~Ceadder


I found some insane Phobya rad on PPC's but can't find the normal phobya 200mm. Would this Silverstone Fan mount to the Phobya 200mm rad alright?


----------



## npo717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> How long is your Power Supply that you couldnt place the bottom rad the other way around?


180mm. I've had the PSU for years. Never ran into a problem with it till I tried getting in that radiator. I'm not even sure if a 160mm PSU would allow me to turn the radiator around.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I'm strongly considering going with 180/200mm rad now. I won't have to hack up the top of my case this way. The magicool's any good? PerformancePC's don't have the Phobya, but I could always order it from FrozenCPU i'd just have to pay more shipping <.< Think I could get away with using my "big boy" 200mm fan on it?


go with phobya 200,it's a beast radiator.It even competes with 360 rads!

Quote:


> I found some insane Phobya rad on PPC's but can't find the normal phobya 200mm. Would this Silverstone Fan mount to the Phobya 200mm rad alright?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31028 Here is the radiator.And yes the fan is compatible


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> go with phobya 200,it's a beast radiator.It even competes with 360 rads!


I'm going with the Phobya Xtreme 200mm and a NZXT FN-200RB 200mm fan for it. Sound like win?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *npo717*
> 
> 180mm. I've had the PSU for years. Never ran into a problem with it till I tried getting in that radiator. I'm not even sure if a 160mm PSU would allow me to turn the radiator around.


according to this review 160mm is the max for the rad to go opposite of yours and it will be tight/


----------



## grimmy

i can finally join the club SUP YALL


FEELS GOOD

link to build here http://www.overclock.net/t/1213648/project-dream-eater-first-water-set-up-and-case-mod-cheers-finished


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Okay, good to know that having two 180mm radiators will work. There is absolutely no way I would be able to fit anymore radiator space in my case! PowerMac G5 cases are TINY compared to other cases.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> i can finally join the club SUP YALL
> 
> FEELS GOOD
> link to build here http://www.overclock.net/t/1213648/project-dream-eater-first-water-set-up-and-case-mod-cheers-finished


dude that res is just ridiculously amazing! Props to your for having a case that will fit it haha


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> i can finally join the club SUP YALL
> 
> FEELS GOOD
> link to build here http://www.overclock.net/t/1213648/project-dream-eater-first-water-set-up-and-case-mod-cheers-finished


Wow, nice uv setup there. I love your 400mm FrozenQ helix res! Can't wait to get my replacement back in (a little 250mm







).


----------



## simonfredette

thats sick man wiith the haunter in the corner, best looking UV ive seen in forever. really nice job man . mad props !


----------



## solar0987

Inc dominators and a bitspower galaxy ram block









Pics soon
And a video card and waterblock muahahaha:thumb:


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *npo717*
> 
> 180mm. I've had the PSU for years. Never ran into a problem with it till I tried getting in that radiator. I'm not even sure if a 160mm PSU would allow me to turn the radiator around.
> 
> 
> 
> according to this review 160mm is the max for the rad to go opposite of yours and it will be tight/
Click to expand...

He says all the time, he makes general watercooling suggestions and tend to be on the conservative side. He does this because a lot of noobs watch and he doesn't want them getting in to trouble because with product A fits but product B doesn't.


----------



## Rognin

Don't forget to go vote for this months MOTM!!!









Linky


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Don't forget to go vote for this months MOTM!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Linky


I think it's a 2 horse race between you and bob, good luck.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I think it's a 2 horse race between you and bob, good luck.


I don't think I have much of a chance against Bob's rig in the long run. When I entered he wasn't confirmed, so I thought I still had a running chance. Pretty sure the chances are now slim to none for a win. His build is just, well I don't have words to do it justice. I've never seen a nice orange build, and he did it with bravo.


----------



## ikem

imo lesser known modders need a boost.

i think it will be close. I love the sleeve. modders need to push the styles and creative boundaries.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> i can finally join the club SUP YALL
> 
> FEELS GOOD
> link to build here http://www.overclock.net/t/1213648/project-dream-eater-first-water-set-up-and-case-mod-cheers-finished


Love your haunter man!Rig is good too


----------



## GoodInk

I can't believe they sold out!
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=34450


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

I got some more mail today :3
All the spare parts!


----------



## Hellish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Depends on the thickness.
> I would say not enough but close. I would add another Radiator.
> You have 180mm x 2 = so 360mm
> In my book, 360mm Rad is good for one CPU and one GPU, now you have two GPUs.


Doesnt work like that

360mm Rad is 120x120x3 (43,200)

Dual 180's is 180x180x2 (64,800)


----------



## Aventadoor

What you guys think about using AP-15s with a 120-140 Converter /w a 4x140 Black Ice GTX?


----------



## Skoobs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> What you guys think about using AP-15s with a 120-140 Converter /w a 4x140 Black Ice GTX?


i have b-gears fans on my 2x140 radiator and i absolutely love them

http://bgears.com/b-blaster.html


----------



## Skoobs

some people were talking about the phobya 200mm radiator and whether ppc had them,
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31028
i ordered this exact radiator from xoxide and will be installing it in a temjin tj08b-e case. pictures to come later.

as for the people talking about dust solutions, i have
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001U899IA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00
and it is amazing. absolutely amazing. i use it almost every day for everything from cleaning the dust filters in my PC to dusting it out to vacuuming up crumbs when i eat on the floor in my room.


----------



## Dredknot

i have the same fans on my magicool 360 rad on the top of my case. those fans are amazing for the price. they move a ton of air and are almost silent. i still like my nzxt 200mm fan up front better though, that thing is like a hurricane lol.


----------



## xNAPx

Hi guys i need to watercool a sapphire oc edition in the next few days and i need a piece of advice: i choise this full cover
Aquacomputer aquagrATIx for HD 7970 (Tahiti XT) G1/4 is it good? and moreover i choice a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 280mm to add to my phobya 360 g charger to cool that and another hd7970 in the next future are this component good?


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNAPx*
> 
> Hi guys i need to watercool a sapphire oc edition in the next few days and i need a piece of advice: i choise this full cover
> Aquacomputer aquagrATIx for HD 7970 (Tahiti XT) G1/4 is it good? and moreover i choice a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 280mm to add to my phobya 360 g charger to cool that and another hd7970 in the next future are this component good?


Pretty much good mate.


----------



## xNAPx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Pretty much good mate.


----------



## Aventadoor

I'm wondering if I should do some changes to my loop!
Currently is is Tank/Pump > Radiator > Radiator > GPU > CPU > Radiator > Tank/Pump.

Im not 100% sure if I am satisfyed with the temps since I got 2x 480 (UT60 radiators) 1x 360 (Coolgate).
We're talking around 45-50c (stock GPU clocks) when gaming on hot days (around 25c in my room) with fans at 50% speed (AP-15s & NB 3HS). CPU temp max temp with Prime95 running is 73c @ 1,44V.
Should I expect better temps?

You can see most of my loop here:


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I'm wondering if I should do some changes to my loop!
> Currently is is Tank/Pump > Radiator > Radiator > GPU > CPU > Radiator > Tank/Pump.
> Im not 100% sure if I am satisfyed with the temps since I got 2x 480 (UT60 radiators) 1x 360 (Coolgate).
> We're talking around 45-50c (stock GPU clocks) when gaming on hot days (around 25c in my room) with fans at 50% speed (AP-15s & NB 3HS). CPU temp max temp with Prime95 running is 73c @ 1,44V.
> Should I expect better temps?
> You can see most of my loop here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


try raise fans to 70% and more,you should see some difference


----------



## Aventadoor

Ofcourse, but I would obviously like to have a silent system.


----------



## simonfredette

60% is about the balance point , most air for less noise , go up for more cooling but then sound goes up drastically. I think it comes down to what you want more , otherwise insulate the case for sound and try to make up for the increase in sound caused by the fan speed increase.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can you tell me how did you achieve that beautiful dark/blood red color in your loop? (ie which dye/dyes and how much of it?)


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I'm wondering if I should do some changes to my loop!
> Currently is is Tank/Pump > Radiator > Radiator > GPU > CPU > Radiator > Tank/Pump.
> Im not 100% sure if I am satisfyed with the temps since I got 2x 480 (UT60 radiators) 1x 360 (Coolgate).
> We're talking around 45-50c (stock GPU clocks) when gaming on hot days (around 25c in my room) with fans at 50% speed (AP-15s & NB 3HS). CPU temp max temp with Prime95 running is 73c @ 1,44V.
> Should I expect better temps?
> You can see most of my loop here:


I'd suggest making your own thread for this issue. Good choice on the case by the way.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I'm wondering if I should do some changes to my loop!
> Currently is is Tank/Pump > Radiator > Radiator > GPU > CPU > Radiator > Tank/Pump.
> Im not 100% sure if I am satisfyed with the temps since I got 2x 480 (UT60 radiators) 1x 360 (Coolgate).
> We're talking around 45-50c (stock GPU clocks) when gaming on hot days (around 25c in my room) with fans at 50% speed (AP-15s & NB 3HS). CPU temp max temp with Prime95 running is 73c @ 1,44V.
> Should I expect better temps?
> You can see most of my loop here:


Your temps are pretty good. You may see miniscule changes in changing loop order so it really doesn't make sense to rearrange your loop for a fraction of a degree. Loop order has been discussed and I have even tested it with four gtx 480s







, so the most common answer it doesn't make a difference. The only thing that I would recommend is to place the pump after the reservoir so there's a steady supply of water/liquid to it.

Your temps are pretty good. The cpu at that speed and the temps seem to accurate. I would drop down your speed to help if this isn't your 24/7 setup. I'm currently set to 4.5 in auto voltage which maxes out ~1.295v and temps don't exceed 61c in a small loop. Your gpu temps are good. My old 6950s maxed out ~45c and ~55c @ 950mhz and unlocked to 6970s.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'd suggest making your own thread for this issue. Good choice on the case by the way.


Its a small question and I don't see a need to clutter the section if he can easily ask here when there are plenty of us who can help







.


----------



## simonfredette

That is a really cool case , it can take a ton of rad and thats what counts , that mobo looks tiny and lonely in there , youll have to mount a couple ssd's on the flat area to the right just as filler haha .. clean rig man!


----------



## Dirtyworks

CPU Block: XSPC Rasa
Pump: DazMode branded PWM Laing DDC
Reservoir: Koolance 401X2 Single-bay pump/res combo
Radiators: XSPC RX120 and RX240
Tubing: Unknown Brand ½" ID from DazMode (there was none listed, so I emailed him and he said he had some left over from a DazMode Lab)
Fittings: On radiators/CPU - XSPC Black Chrome; On reservoir - Bitspower silver coated compression

The fans on the 240 are Enermax TB Silence and on the 120 is the red LED fan that came with the case - not that impressive.
However, the case fan I'm using is a PWM controlled GentleTyphoon GT AP-31. It shares the CPU's PWM signal with the pump. At idle its about 800-900RPM. When things get hot and heavy, it'll go up between 4000 and its rated 5400RPM. It moves air, y0.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> 
> CPU Block: XSPC Rasa
> Pump: DazMode branded PWM Laing DDC
> Reservoir: Koolance 401X2 Single-bay pump/res combo
> Radiators: XSPC RX120 and RX240
> Tubing: Unknown Brand ½" ID from DazMode (there was none listed, so I emailed him and he said he had some left over from a DazMode Lab)
> Fittings: On radiators/CPU - XSPC Black Chrome; On reservoir - Bitspower silver coated compression
> The fans on the 240 are Enermax TB Silence and on the 120 is the red LED fan that came with the case - not that impressive.
> However, the case fan I'm using is a PWM controlled GentleTyphoon GT AP-31. It shares the CPU's PWM signal with the pump. At idle its about 800-900RPM. When things get hot and heavy, it'll go up between 4000 and its rated 5400RPM. It moves air, y0.


I like your rig, the colors work wonderful









Good work


----------



## protzman

Those cables are tight!


----------



## Onions

got some updates in my log coming guys http://www.overclock.net/t/1215219/project-lan/0_100#post_16460329


----------



## (sic)

Quick question:
What are signs of a bad water block mount, specifically GPU water blocks?

I'm trying to rule out all possible options to determine if I have a dying card...


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Quick question:
> What are signs of a bad water block mount, specifically GPU water blocks?
> I'm trying to rule out all possible options to determine if I have a dying card...


I you are running on high temps,try reseating the block.Also check barbs/comp fittings for leaks


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice.


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> I you are running on high temps,try reseating the block.Also check barbs/comp fittings for leaks


Nah, my temps are great (never breaks 38C full load). I just can't get the damn thing to not crash...


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Nah, my temps are great (never breaks 38C full load). I just can't get the damn thing to not crash...


reintall your gpu drivers to make sure it's not software problem


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Nah, my temps are great (never breaks 38C full load). I just can't get the damn thing to not crash...


What about your VRM temps?


----------



## Fonne

Have any seen this giant 120mm ?

Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Single 120mm Radiator

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16235/ex-rad-409/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Single_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?id=egfiVnVc
Quote:


> The Monsta radiators, with a *thickness of 80mm*, are the first of their size on the market.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Have any seen this giant 120mm ?
> Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Single 120mm Radiator
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16235/ex-rad-409/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Single_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?id=egfiVnVc
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The Monsta radiators, with a *thickness of 80mm*, are the first of their size on the market.
Click to expand...

Is the a 360 or 420 rad available with that thickness?It's perfect for my testbench


----------



## Fonne

Right here









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16238/ex-rad-411/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Triple_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s161


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Right here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16238/ex-rad-411/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Triple_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s161


I'm tempted to pick two up


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> reintall your gpu drivers to make sure it's not software problem


Thanks, but I've tried every driver known to man. No success
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> What about your VRM temps?


How would I check these temps?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> How would I check these temps?


gpuz

http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/


----------



## (sic)

^ Thank you. I'll check the VRM temps next time I'm on.


----------



## duhasttas

Hello there everyone! Finally 100% happy with my new Torture Rack


----------



## nicedart

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhasttas*
> 
> Hello there everyone! Finally 100% happy with my setup in my new Torture Rack






nice rack

the video ad on imageshack scared the crap out of me... I wasnt ready for "loud noises"


----------



## (sic)

I'm not seeing any VRM temp readout with either program. Unless the PCB temp is the VRM readout?


----------



## SimpleTech

Yeah it appears Nvidia cards don't have similar sensors to AMD.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> I'm not seeing any VRM temp readout with either program. Unless the PCB temp is the VRM readout?


Try reseating your sli bridge and then the cards if that doesn't help. Sometimes they just don't make good contact and run stupid.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Got my last couple of angles from Performance-PCs today, and installing them tonight to finally close off my loop. I've already cleaned everything with boiling distilled water and vinegar, so I should be good to go for leak testing.

Is there anything I should be aware of before I get started with my leak test? ...Besides the obvious and cover my components with towels, and running it for 24 hours.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> I'm not seeing any VRM temp readout with either program. Unless the PCB temp is the VRM readout?


hmmmm....







.....I'll check mine in a bit. Last I recall, I think i saw a vrm sensor.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Try hwmonitor


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I read somwhere around here that you have to flush brand new radiators before using them. My Black Ice rads don't have any documentation suggesting this is necessary so what say you guys?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I read somwhere around here that you have to flush brand new radiators before using them. My Black Ice rads don't have any documentation suggesting this is necessary so what say you guys?


That is what I have heard/read.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I read somwhere around here that you have to flush brand new radiators before using them. My Black Ice rads don't have any documentation suggesting this is necessary so what say you guys?


You absolutely have to , especially if your going to use coolant ( as opposed to water ) with water you can see it and flush it out .. But a new rad has flux and a bunch of other junk in it , I usually just hook up a piece of tube to one end and leave the other end open and then go in the sink and force hot water through the tube using my hand as a seal, the water will go through the rad and out the other end.. Only about 30 seconds of this is plenty and it will save you grief in the long run.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> You absolutely have to , especially if your going to use coolant ( as opposed to water ) with water you can see it and flush it out .. But a new rad has flux and a bunch of other junk in it , I usually just hook up a piece of tube to one end and leave the other end open and then go in the sink and force hot water through the tube using my hand as a seal, the water will go through the rad and out the other end.. Only about 30 seconds of this is plenty and it will save you grief in the long run.


I've already done that part about a month ago.

Besides that, I was wondering if there's anything else in the tricks of the trade of water cooling that I should be aware of before I begin my preliminary leak test... Saying a Hail Mary I guess is the first thing, I suppose.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> nice rack


That's some sig-worthy material right there. Only on OCN.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> That's some sig-worthy material right there. Only on OCN.










thought it was just me.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I've already done that part about a month ago.
> Besides that, I was wondering if there's anything else in the tricks of the trade of water cooling that I should be aware of before I begin my preliminary leak test... Saying a Hail Mary I guess is the first thing, I suppose.


When Sponge towel is your friend for sure , fold it in 4 and put sheets under all your fittings and anywhere you suspect it could leak. If you use compression fittings dont use pliers or a wrench to tighten them , the threads are really fragile especially with acrylic tops.. Other than the rinse I told you the rad should be ready to go, make sure you dont start running and priming the pump with the mobo powered particularly the cpu because there wont be water consistantly for the first seconds so you have to unplug the mobo completely , same for gpu's. then once its full if its taking forever to get the bubbles out you can put a drop of dawn ( dishwashing soap ) just a drop or too and it helps get rid of bubbles.


----------



## DarkHayZe

I asked this else where but was not met with very optimistic responses...
Quote:


> I would like to find a good and cheep full tower case... Eventually I will be upgrading to a MM Ascension and WC. However in the mean time I would like a cheapo case I can build my new system in as I am giving my old system away (With a few minor exceptions on parts) (Already promised to someone)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> When Sponge towel is your friend for sure , fold it in 4 and put sheets under all your fittings and anywhere you suspect it could leak. *If you use compression fittings dont use pliers or a wrench to tighten them , the threads are really fragile especially with acrylic tops*.. Other than the rinse I told you the rad should be ready to go, make sure you dont start running and priming the pump with the mobo powered particularly the cpu because there wont be water consistantly for the first seconds so you have to unplug the mobo completely , same for gpu's. then once its full if its taking forever to get the bubbles out you can put a drop of dawn ( dishwashing soap ) just a drop or too and it helps get rid of bubbles.


Do you just tighten them with your fingers? Doesn't seem tight enough to me?


----------



## simonfredette

oh year fingers only , thats what the grip is for , if you want to go a bit more use a small rag or cloth to add grip , the seal is made by the o-ring in it so as soon as it is compressed it cant leak , crack your block and then your definitely leaking , while you leak test ( 2 hours - 24 hours ) if you see water starting to make a drop tighten a little bit more wipe it dry and check again.. The time it takes to leak test depends on experience , your first one go about 24 hours and when you are more used to it and confident youre probably going to leak test for shorter times. I use a seperate psu to leak check so it doesnt power the computer but theres a trick to use your psu without going through the mobo , shorting a couple pins but ive never tried im sure you can find a post on how to do it,.


----------



## Krahe

to jump the psu just use a paperclip on any black wire on the 24 pin and connect the other end to the green wire on the 24 pin, hth


----------



## derickwm

Update to side project. Not quite as cool as you B-Neg


----------



## jackofhearts495

dat photography

Also, nice Mars...


----------



## SimpleTech

Yes, that Mars is one sexy VHS tape.









I love your test bench table-thingy.


----------



## zdude

I like to computer and the mountains in the background, moab area? (I live in a flat area of the country)


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> dat photography
> 
> Also, nice Mars...


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Yes, that Mars is one sexy VHS tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love your test bench table-thingy.


It's temporary








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> I like to computer and the mountains in the background, moab area? (I live in a flat area of the country)


Northern Arizona. Just moved here, it's so beautiful!


----------



## protzman

oh my god. that looks soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo knarly. that matte finish in the mars, sr2 and raystorm w/ the orange is just way to legit to quit. love it!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Is that Mars by chance on ebay?


----------



## Krahe

Looking great derrick, on a side note I just started a new job as a crane operator for a company and have just been told that they are also agents for Intel Asus, Evga and OCZ ect here in Australia, was just going to be a fill in job, but now I am going to be extra nice to see if I can order some stuff on their business account.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> oh my god. that looks soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo knarly. that matte finish in the mars, sr2 and raystorm w/ the orange is just way to legit to quit. love it!


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Is that Mars by chance on ebay?


Neither confirm nor deny.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Northern Arizona. Just moved here, *it's so beautiful*!


Yes thats right, but there is heavy humidity and MUST turn on AC 247..


----------



## Krahe

just a thought....has anyone folded on one of dem bad boy mb's?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Yes thats right, but there is heavy humidity and MUST turn on AC 247..


AZ has even less humidity that we do (Colorado) and we usually have about 6-9%...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Northern Arizona. Just moved here, *it's so beautiful*!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes thats right, but there is heavy humidity and MUST turn on AC 247..
Click to expand...

Are you serious? I've had between 0-5% humidity the past two weeks I've been here







100 here feels like 75 in Seattle. It's so lovely. Although the AC does stay on








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> just a thought....has anyone folded on one of dem bad boy mb's?


Yeah lots of people do. They aren't bad, but right now I'm pulling nearly 800W from the wall while folding







definitely not that efficient.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yeah lots of people do. They aren't bad, but right now I'm pulling nearly 800W from the wall while folding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> definitely not that efficient.


slap on four gtx 480s and wait for the breakers to go









My res and new cpu block came in. I'm waiting on a mb block so I'm holding up on the install until that comes in


----------



## derickwm

The thought of that scares me









Also, wermad why did you go back to SB?


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Are you serious? I've had between 0-5% humidity the past two weeks I've been here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 100 here feels like 75 in Seattle. It's so lovely. Although the AC does stay on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah lots of people do. They aren't bad, but right now I'm pulling nearly 800W from the wall while folding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> definitely not that efficient.


Might be time to find a 220v plug somewhere in the house.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The thought of that scares me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, wermad why did you go back to SB?


I was planning to go back to lga1366 but the path was rocky and a mb w/ bent pins sealed the deal on that plan. I got a sweet deal on this mb and a cpu so I decided to keep them since it was actually cheaper than going lga1366. I like lga2011 but I'm much more happier and comfortable running SB w/ unlocked multis.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The thought of that scares me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, wermad why did you go back to SB?
> 
> 
> 
> I was planning to go back to lga1366 but the path was rocky and a mb w/ bent pins sealed the deal on that plan. I got a sweet deal on this mb and a cpu so I decided to keep them since it was actually cheaper than going lga1366. I like lga2011 but I'm much more happier and comfortable running SB w/ unlocked multis.
Click to expand...

We should form a club







lol


----------



## PhatFree

i wish they would do dual GPU cards like that still, looks way better and has no hot air flowing back into the case


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhatFree*
> 
> i wish they would do dual GPU cards like that still, looks way better and has no hot air flowing back into the case


I guess. It runs pretty hot and loud at idle


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Update to side project. *Not quite as cool as you B-Neg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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Dont be so hasty,there is pr0n right there!!
Dunno why you bought that SR-X tho...XD
BIOS 15 is the best so far for that SR-X if you are interested?


----------



## derickwm

SR-X is... for playing I guess. Probably be putting off buying chips for it for a while after seeing OC3D's review of it compared to the Asus 2P board, which I also own lol. Dunno eventually they'll all be folding. Of the 3 boards, only the SR-2 is up and running. Hopefully time I get the SR-X up the bios will have been fixed...


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Yes thats right, but there is heavy humidity and MUST turn on AC 247..


You want humidity.... Move to Hampton Roads Virginia. this place SUX!!!!!


----------



## Bigm

Noob question here... It's better to run distilled water from Walmart then buy some fancy pants coolant from EK or someone, correct? Finalizing my loop purchase that's going to happen within the next week or 2 hopefully and that's the last thing I need.


----------



## george_orm

distilled water all the way, cheap, cheerful, and thermally u cant argue with it.


----------



## Bigm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> distilled water all the way, cheap, cheerful, and thermally u cant argue with it.


Cheers, +rep


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Which is better: Mayhems dye and distilled water or Mayhems premix?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Which is better: Mayhems dye and distilled water or Mayhems premix?


I like getting just the dye. You get enough for many uses, you can mix to your liking, you can mix other colors to make colors like blood red and you'll have red and blue if you ever need it.


----------



## Neale1993

An external watercooling unit built into a modded NZXT Hades









Case for all the hardware is a Thermaltake lvl10 GT















Really overkill on the rads i know but... its a long story dont ask xD Trying to get funds together for a new build that will be better an not so much of a waste on rads... xD


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Chea alternative water cooling....


----------



## SimpleTech

AHHH.. Apevia.. burn it with fire!

Nice evaporation cooler.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> AHHH.. Apevia.. burn it with fire!
> Nice evaporation cooler.


There's hardly any apevia left lol


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigm*
> 
> Noob question here... It's better to run distilled water from Walmart then buy some fancy pants coolant from EK or someone, correct? Finalizing my loop purchase that's going to happen within the next week or 2 hopefully and that's the last thing I need.


You might still want to get a killcoil though.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

The leak test on my rig went extremely well last night. This being my first water cooled pc, my greatest concerns were whether or not I would experience any leaks. And I have to say that the whole process was flawless. I installed the last pieces connecting the CPU block to the motherboard (EK Acrylic blocks), and added Primochill coolant to the reservoir before turning on anything. In all, it took about an hour and a half before all the larger bubbles disappeared. I also tilted the rig in various directions to force out lingering bubbles within the 3 120 rads that I had set up. A week earlier I had added two kill coils in areas that I can monitor through the window, and I also added two drops of biocide. So far I have not added any of the purple die I have, mostly because I'm on the fence about it now that I've heard other guys here use clear coolant. But at least I have it in case I change my mind later on. One other thing that I should add before I get reamed, is that I've already flushed out all blocks and rads about three weeks earlier.

I let the leak test run overnight just to be sure, and it purred like a kitten. Very quiet, discrete, and the pump noise didn't exceed the fans. Once I have the mobo and everything plugged in and software installed, I'll post completed pictures. Overall, I would say that it was a great experience to be able to assemble this rig, and go through the ups and downs of pc building. I would certainly do it again in a heartbeak, but have a clear cut plan and map out my parts before I make my first purchase. The water cooling aspect of the build certainly taught me a lot over the last few months, and through the help of people like YOU, this project is now complete.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Congratulations man! I hope to follow in your footsteps within the next couple weeks. Just need to raise up a little more money to get the final parts together...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Congratulations man! I hope to follow in your footsteps within the next couple weeks. Just need to raise up a little more money to get the final parts together...


What's more rewarding is that I didn't go over my projeceted completion date. I told myself that I'd be done no later than June, and I did just that. The only thing that would have held me up is if I waited and went with the Monsoon 90 degree fittings - which are still not available. Nothing against them personally, but I wanted to stick with my deadline and have it running by the 4th of July weekend. And the only way to do that was to go with other brands.

The money wasn't a huge aspect, but it certainly would have taken a bit longer if I kept upgrading or went with a Caselabs M10, SR-X, and other high end components... Something that I really wouldn't need, considering what I plan on using this rig for. So overall, I'm happy with the end result.

Good luck on your build, and I hope to see pictures.


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> and added Primochill coolant to the reservoir before turning on anything.
> 
> A week earlier I had added two kill coils in areas that I can monitor through the window, and I also added two drops of biocide..


So you're using both a premade coolant and extra biocide? That's not good, the two different liquids can interfere with eachother, if the premade coolant already has a biocide in it, which they almost always have.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> So you're using both a premade coolant and extra biocide? That's not good, the two different liquids can interfere with eachother, if the premade coolant already has a biocide in it, which they almost always have.


Even as miniscule as two drops of biocide in the coolant will make that kind of a difference?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Even as miniscule as two drops of biocide in the coolant will make that kind of a difference?


Mayhem did a test for this at Specialtech...2 drops turned dye to junk.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Mayhem did a test for this at Specialtech...2 drops turned dye to junk.


Luckily I haven't put any die in just yet. I'm running coolant only for the time being. But now that I know, I'll have to decide whether or not I'll flush out the coolant and use distilled water or take my chances by adding a little dye. I have plenty of time to decide, and I'm in no rush either. So I'll play it by ear and continue to read more on the subject.


----------



## Ironkidz

Here is my x79 build. I did something I have never seen anyone do with the drive bay on the 800d so let me know what you think!

Case: Corsair 800d
CPU: 3930k @ 5ghz
RAM: 16gb's 1866 Corsair Dominator GT
MOBO: Asus RIVE
GPU's: 2 x gtx590 in quad sli
HardDrives: 4x Patriot Torqx SSD's in Raid 0
PSU: Corsair AX1200
Cooling: Koolance and EK waterblocks, and 3 XSPC Rads - 120,240,360 with Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans. Koolance RP-452X2 res/pumps


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Luckily I haven't put any die in just yet. I'm running coolant only for the time being. But now that I know, I'll have to decide whether or not I'll flush out the coolant and use distilled water or take my chances by adding a little dye. I have plenty of time to decide, and I'm in no rush either. So I'll play it by ear and continue to read more on the subject.


http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?1838-What-happens-when-you-introduce-Copper-biocde-and-premix
I dug the link up....

In essence this happens...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> I did something I have never seen anyone do with the drive bay on the 800d


I did a similar thing with my little Antec 1100. I also have a RIVE too, and managed to fit two little 120 rads in the drive bay area. I'll see how far I can go with this setup, and if I get tired of it, I'll switch cases and give this one to my kids.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> You absolutely have to , especially if your going to use coolant ( as opposed to water ) with water you can see it and flush it out .. But a new rad has flux and a bunch of other junk in it , I usually just hook up a piece of tube to one end and leave the other end open and then go in the sink and force hot water through the tube using my hand as a seal, the water will go through the rad and out the other end.. Only about 30 seconds of this is plenty and it will save you grief in the long run.


So question, what will this amount to? I always figured it would just give you slightly higher temps. I put together my loop a little over a month ago and was so excited that I forgot to flush my gt ice stealth 280 rad in the process. I am using Primochill Ice uv green.

I noticed a few little small bits of something stuck in my ek supreme hf since they were too big to travel through the ruts over the copper heatsink. I am pretty sure they came out of the rad because I noticed them almost instantly and since then nothing else has built up. Temps have been fine so I just figured I would worry about cleaning the loop out the next time I flushed it in a few months.

This makes it sound very critical though. Thoughts?


----------



## wermad

Any one have experience and pics of 3/8x5/8 tube??? I'm looking to switch from 3/8x1/2 as I'm using way too many angled fittings to make all connections to the blocks. I'm still considering 1/2x3/4 but I like the slight smaller size of the 5/8 o/d tube and fitting. I'm wondering if it bends as fluid as 1/2x3/4 (same walll thickness 1/8 ~3mm).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one have experience and pics of 3/8x5/8 tube??? I'm looking to switch from 3/8x1/2 as I'm using way too many angled fittings to make all connections to the blocks. I'm still considering 1/2x3/4 but I like the slight smaller size of the 5/8 o/d tube and fitting. I'm wondering if it bends as fluid as 1/2x3/4 (same walll thickness 1/8 ~3mm).


My Bench uses 10/16mm tube,I think it looks good,you get great kink resistance too.
The pic I put up recently with Mayhems Chameleon with the Clearflex shows it best.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My Bench uses 10/16mm tube,I think it looks good,you get great kink resistance too.
> The pic I put up recently with Mayhems Chameleon with the Clearflex shows it best.


Thanks









My work pc is blocking the members list in the first page







. If its good at preventing kinks, I'll switch to that size. I'm going to check out the local hardware store for tube in this size before I make my purchase. My only concern (and minor one that be) is the res, but I have a few extensions to push out the fitting a couple of cm(s).


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?1838-What-happens-when-you-introduce-Copper-biocde-and-premix
> I dug the link up....
> In essence this happens...


Damn, that's just plain nasty. You can actually see the particles breakdown... Kind of like eating a really delicious pizza, only to lift up the last slice and see how much saturated oil soaked through the cardboard.

Based on the findings in that link, it appears that what I have going on in my loop right now is fine. So if and when I decide to add a drop or two of dye, it won't harm it too much... But again, there's no rush for me to add any.

+1 rep


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Damn, that's just plain nasty. You can actually see the particles breakdown... Kind of like eating a really delicious pizza, only to lift up the last slice and see how much saturated oil soaked through the cardboard.
> Based on the findings in that link, it appears that what I have going on in my loop right now is fine. So if and when I decide to add a drop or two of dye, it won't harm it too much... But again, there's no rush for me to add any.
> +1 rep


Err... No.

The same thing is happening in your loop right now, actually. If you read the first few lines of the first post, you'll notice that he says the Glycol that is commonly used in nearly all coolant mixtures is the first thing to break down and separate. You just don't have any dye in there to show that it's happening right now.

Just because you used the prescribed amount doesn't mean the chemical reaction isn't happening. It's just happening much more slowly than if you had used too much. Physical properties of molecules remain the same in small quantities or large.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> So question, what will this amount to? I always figured it would just give you slightly higher temps. I put together my loop a little over a month ago and was so excited that I forgot to flush my gt ice stealth 280 rad in the process. I am using Primochill Ice uv green.
> I noticed a few little small bits of something stuck in my ek supreme hf since they were too big to travel through the ruts over the copper heatsink. I am pretty sure they came out of the rad because I noticed them almost instantly and since then nothing else has built up. Temps have been fine so I just figured I would worry about cleaning the loop out the next time I flushed it in a few months.
> This makes it sound very critical though. Thoughts?


I did the same thing with my first one and saw junk in the water so shortly after I flushed the whole system, I think the critical thing is if you were using coolant and it mixes and you end up having to dump it you just wasted money , I dont think its so important with water because all you do is change the water and it cost you a whole 0$ . The flux wont degrade anything it might just screw with your coolant.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Is regular tap water through the rad the best way to flush it?


----------



## derickwm

STH10 confirmed


----------



## simonfredette

thats what I did , hot tap water , you can rinse with distilled if you really want to but between you and me that a little obsessive, do NOT run tap water through your system though , that really is bad for it , bottled water all the way , any bottled water will do , walmart 4L jugs ( can we say jugs ) ..


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm talking about just to flush the rads. I don't even have all my parts in yet so I figured this was something I could go ahead and take care of while I'm waiting. I'm also going to be using Mayhems premix coolant in my rig whenever I get it all put together...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Is regular tap water through the rad the best way to flush it?


Tap water is too risky for me, even if you end up flushing it with distilled. Why not warm up some distilled in the first place and flush/rinse it what that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> STH10 confirmed


Pics as soon as it arrives. Make sure you use the mountains again as a backdrop for the pics


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one have experience and pics of 3/8x5/8 tube??? I'm looking to switch from 3/8x1/2 as I'm using way too many angled fittings to make all connections to the blocks. I'm still considering 1/2x3/4 but I like the slight smaller size of the 5/8 o/d tube and fitting. I'm wondering if it bends as fluid as 1/2x3/4 (same walll thickness 1/8 ~3mm).


I have 3/8" x 5/8" tubes and love them more so then 1/2" x 3/4"


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I have 3/8" x 5/8" tubes and love them more so then 1/2" x 3/4"


Thanks







, does it bend as well as 1/2x3/4? Some pics would be great









+1


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> STH10 confirmed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics as soon as it arrives. Make sure you use the mountains again as a backdrop for the pics
Click to expand...

Of course







best location for proper lighting around!


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I did the same thing with my first one and saw junk in the water so shortly after I flushed the whole system, I think the critical thing is if you were using coolant and it mixes and you end up having to dump it you just wasted money , I dont think its so important with water because all you do is change the water and it cost you a whole 0$ . The flux wont degrade anything it might just screw with your coolant.


Cool. So what I gathered is as long as I am fine with the temps it wont hurt to wait and clean it out with the next flush?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> thats what I did , hot tap water , you can rinse with distilled if you really want to but between you and me that a little obsessive, do NOT run tap water through your system though , that really is bad for it , bottled water all the way , any bottled water will do , walmart 4L jugs ( can we say jugs ) ..


The other type of jugs has two "g"s


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> The other type of jugs has two "g"s


excellent


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm talking about just to flush the rads. I don't even have all my parts in yet so I figured this was something I could go ahead and take care of while I'm waiting. I'm also going to be using Mayhems premix coolant in my rig whenever I get it all put together...


I now do a 3 part flush

1. Hot vinegar
2. Hot water, tape the tubing to the facet, let it run for 15 mins
3. 1 gallon distilled water

I used to just do steps 1 and 3, but I tried a vinegar rinse on one of my old rads just to see what would happen. I used a coffee filter to filter the rinse out, I was shocked at how much crap came out of just one rinse with it. Not only did it discolor the vinegar (looked like a greenish blue) but metal shaving and among other crap came out of it. It took 2 more rinses before it came out clean. The only thing I ran though that rad was distilled water and a kill coil.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## TPE-331

Looks good derick.







Did you go ahead and click the "proceed to checkout" button?


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I now do a 3 part flush
> 1. Hot vinegar
> 2. Hot water, tape the tubing to the facet, let it run for 15 mins
> 3. 1 gallon distilled water
> I used to just do steps 1 and 3, but I tried a vinegar rinse on one of my old rads just to see what would happen. I used a coffee filter to filter the rinse out, I was shocked at how much crap came out of just one rinse with it. Not only did it discolor the vinegar (looked like a greenish blue) but metal shaving and among other crap came out of it. It took 2 more rinses before it came out clean. The only thing I ran though that rad was distilled water and a kill coil.


Thats really thorough man , in a good way but I dont know how necessary it really is but nothing is making it past that for sure . do you find it affects temps or lifespan of the rad or you just want to do it right kinda thing.


----------



## jagz

Best 360mm rad under $100? I'm looking at these:

XSPC EX360 (35mm thick) $60
Magicool Extreme (45mm thick) $70
Phobya G-Changer (60mm thick) $80
Black Ice® GTX Gen Two Xtreme (54mm thick.. only if it's worth the price) $120
Koolance Radiator (38mm thick) $56
EK-CoolStream (47mm thick) $84

No idea over here..


----------



## Krahe

Ill jump in on the rad flushing as I have just finished flushing an RX480 and a EX480, I used 50/50 hot water and vinegar and after giving them a good shake emptied into a white bowl, the RX left a hell of a lot of sediment, sorta like a fine black sand but the EX only had a little, I do remember reading somewhere that they now pre flush the rads, so this might explain why the EX was better, but for peace of mind I would still flush them to be sure.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Best 360mm rad under $100? I'm looking at these:
> XSPC EX360 (35mm thick) $60
> Magicool Extreme (45mm thick) $70
> Phobya G-Changer (60mm thick) $80
> Black Ice® GTX Gen Two Xtreme (54mm thick.. only if it's worth the price) $120
> Koolance Radiator (38mm thick) $56
> EK-CoolStream (47mm thick) $84
> No idea over here..


Am wondering the same thing my self, thinking about grabbing a ex360 plus a universal gpu block and addin it to my CPU+rs240 loop,

Out of interest my 560ti has no heat Sinks on the ram or vrm's do I need those little heat sinks or am I fine with two 120mm fans blowin straight on to it, ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Best 360mm rad under $100? I'm looking at these:
> XSPC EX360 (35mm thick) $60
> Magicool Extreme (45mm thick) $70
> Phobya G-Changer (60mm thick) $80
> Black Ice® GTX Gen Two Xtreme (54mm thick.. only if it's worth the price) $120
> Koolance Radiator (38mm thick) $56
> EK-CoolStream (47mm thick) $84
> No idea over here..


This guy tested pretty good in Martin's test:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=32770

For $20 more, you can grab the 80mm thick "Monsta"

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=34504


----------



## simonfredette

what about an rx 360 , its a classic that has thoroughly proven its worth

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=154_69&products_id=1012


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I now do a 3 part flush
> 1. Hot vinegar
> 2. Hot water, tape the tubing to the facet, let it run for 15 mins
> 3. 1 gallon distilled water
> I used to just do steps 1 and 3, but I tried a vinegar rinse on one of my old rads just to see what would happen. I used a coffee filter to filter the rinse out, I was shocked at how much crap came out of just one rinse with it. Not only did it discolor the vinegar (looked like a greenish blue) but metal shaving and among other crap came out of it. It took 2 more rinses before it came out clean. The only thing I ran though that rad was distilled water and a kill coil.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats really thorough man , in a good way but I dont know how necessary it really is but nothing is making it past that for sure . do you find it affects temps or lifespan of the rad or you just want to do it right kinda thing.
Click to expand...

All the problems between tubing, coolants, dyes, biocides, ect, ect I want it clean as possible in my loop. Any left over chemicals in the rad could mean bad things down the road.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Best 360mm rad under $100? I'm looking at these:
> 
> XSPC EX360 (35mm thick) $60
> Magicool Extreme (45mm thick) $70
> Phobya G-Changer (60mm thick) $80
> Black Ice® GTX Gen Two Xtreme (54mm thick.. only if it's worth the price) $120
> Koolance Radiator (38mm thick) $56
> EK-CoolStream (47mm thick) $84
> 
> No idea over here..


There is no one answer, some want great cooling with low fan speeds, some want just max performance no mater how loud, some want a mix, some want bleed screws, ect, ect. Look in my sig under reviews and read the rad reviews for all pros and cons on most rads being sold along with of how they perform over a wide range of fan speeds.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I now do a 3 part flush
> 1. Hot vinegar
> 2. Hot water, tape the tubing to the facet, let it run for 15 mins
> 3. 1 gallon distilled water
> I used to just do steps 1 and 3, but I tried a vinegar rinse on one of my old rads just to see what would happen. I used a coffee filter to filter the rinse out, I was shocked at how much crap came out of just one rinse with it. Not only did it discolor the vinegar (looked like a greenish blue) but metal shaving and among other crap came out of it. It took 2 more rinses before it came out clean. The only thing I ran though that rad was distilled water and a kill coil.


Yeah, but these are brand new. Do I need to use vinegar on a brand new rad?


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> Am wondering the same thing my self, thinking about grabbing a ex360 plus a universal gpu block and addin it to my CPU+rs240 loop,
> Out of interest my 560ti has no heat Sinks on the ram or vrm's do I need those little heat sinks or am I fine with two 120mm fans blowin straight on to it, ?


i stuck with the ex series for my latest upgrade. had 240s before and upgraded to 360s (figured going to tri-sli 480s might need a bit more cooling







). they seem to work really well with lower fan speeds (<1500), which also keeps everything quiet. not the best performers but they keep all my temps well within check


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> i stuck with the ex series for my latest upgrade. had 240s before and upgraded to 360s (figured going to tri-sli 480s might need a bit more cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). they seem to work really well with lower fan speeds (<1500), which also keeps everything quiet. not the best performers but they keep all my temps well within check
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, straight digging that!!! +rep

Also love the sig quote


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I now do a 3 part flush
> 1. Hot vinegar
> 2. Hot water, tape the tubing to the facet, let it run for 15 mins
> 3. 1 gallon distilled water
> I used to just do steps 1 and 3, but I tried a vinegar rinse on one of my old rads just to see what would happen. I used a coffee filter to filter the rinse out, I was shocked at how much crap came out of just one rinse with it. Not only did it discolor the vinegar (looked like a greenish blue) but metal shaving and among other crap came out of it. It took 2 more rinses before it came out clean. The only thing I ran though that rad was distilled water and a kill coil.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but these are brand new. Do I need to use vinegar on a brand new rad?
Click to expand...

Yes, you need to do a really thorough clean on them, or there will be particles from manufacturing that'll travel through your loop and destroy finishes/surfaces on blocks.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I now do a 3 part flush
> 1. Hot vinegar
> 2. Hot water, tape the tubing to the facet, let it run for 15 mins
> 3. 1 gallon distilled water
> I used to just do steps 1 and 3, but I tried a vinegar rinse on one of my old rads just to see what would happen. I used a coffee filter to filter the rinse out, I was shocked at how much crap came out of just one rinse with it. Not only did it discolor the vinegar (looked like a greenish blue) but metal shaving and among other crap came out of it. It took 2 more rinses before it came out clean. The only thing I ran though that rad was distilled water and a kill coil.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but these are brand new. Do I need to use vinegar on a brand new rad?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, you need to do a really thorough clean on them, or there will be particles from manufacturing that'll travel through your loop and destroy finishes/surfaces on blocks.
Click to expand...

What he said


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> AZ has even less humidity that we do (Colorado) and we usually have about 6-9%...
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Are you serious? I've had between 0-5% humidity the past two weeks I've been here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 100 here feels like 75 in Seattle. It's so lovely. Although the AC does stay on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah lots of people do. They aren't bad, but right now I'm pulling nearly 800W from the wall while folding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> definitely not that efficient.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

A'ight, I visited my friend who reside in Phoenix, AZ, as four times during summer times. Yes there was very humidity around me. But texas is a WORST humidity than AZ..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> You want humidity.... Move to Hampton Roads Virginia. this place SUX!!!!!


Huh? don't forget TEXAS, too.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, but these are brand new. Do I need to use vinegar on a brand new rad?


I have a WC build in progress but i will share what I have learned so far.

You really don't need to vinegar but the answer is yes, you need to flush your rad even if they are brand new because they can contain debris and flux residue which will have a impact on performance or the left over debris can damage your blocks. I found this http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/ when I was doing my bulk of my WC research. Pretty much no matter which method you use, make sure you do the final rinse with distilled water.

Also I would check this out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9TwhwVlllo&feature=player_embedded Notice how much crap is in the filter and you don't want this stuff in your loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> i stuck with the ex series for my latest upgrade. had 240s before and upgraded to 360s (figured going to tri-sli 480s might need a bit more cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). they seem to work really well with lower fan speeds (<1500), which also keeps everything quiet. not the best performers but they keep all my temps well within check
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any difference if you point the fans downward? Just curious since both fans are pointing up and are angled towards each other


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Ill jump in on the rad flushing as I have just finished flushing an RX480 and a EX480, I used 50/50 hot water and vinegar and after giving them a good shake emptied into a white bowl, the RX left a hell of a lot of sediment, sorta like a fine black sand but the EX only had a little, I do remember reading somewhere that they now pre flush the rads, so this might explain why the EX was better, but for peace of mind I would still flush them to be sure.


The above were brand new rads.


----------



## Johnny Utah

I have 2 ex rads and both were very clean. Still flushed with water and a little vinegar

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any difference if you point the fans downward? Just curious since both fans are pointing up and are angled towards each other


nope...tried both push and pull. ended up using pull just because it is easier to clean the rads.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> nope...tried both push and pull. ended up using pull just because it is easier to clean the rads.


Cool









This is the first thing that came in to my mind when i saw your build:


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

The gang has arrived.










...and some close ups.


Here is my build log if anyone wants to check it out. I will keep updating it as I progress.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1274332/water-cooling-work-log#post_17591205

Stay Tuned...


----------



## Ceadderman

Apologies for bringing this up 3 pages late but regarding flushing with Tap Water issue...

I see no reason to even contemplate using Tap Water to flush anything in a water cooling loop.

Here are my reasons.

1) The price of Distilled is cheap enough to make it the preferred solution. Especially for those who have to pay for their water usage or even if you're on a Well.

2) If you have Hard Water it can do some nasty things to the flow chambers of the Radiator. Including cause blockage(s) due to mineral/calcification deposits.

3) Vinegar(if you do Vinegar flush which I wholly recommend) is mixed with Distilled to approximately 5% acidity +/- a percent or so. The information is on the jug.

4) Unreliable PSI information regarding water pressure. Are you on a pressure booster? Many apartment complexes run a booster due to low pressure at the main.

IMHO, I think that it's mostly impatience that leads to using tap water to flush a Radiator. Can you? Sure. Should you? I would say that the choice is up to you but if you put much money into your loop, why in gods name would you cheap out with the most important step in the process? If you have to RMA your Radiator for any reason at all I think that it's better to be able to state with conviction that no tap water ever came in contact with it than cheap out and have to lie/fib/omit about it later.

$4 for 4 Gallons that should be more than sufficient to flush your new friend, as well as to have a supply of Distilled on hand in case you need to drain the loop for an unforeseen issue that crops its ugly little head when you least expect it. I had 5 on hand when I did my Vinegar and 50/50, Distilled flush and I was glad I had it cause my Res had leaks in it after I separated it to clean out Lime deposits from the Tap Rinse it got before I ever had it. Bro was doin me a favor and meant well (used Red Dye) so I won't condemn for it. Just wish he'd used Distilled. I got the Res cleaned up and you can't even tell that there was ever a Lime deposit in it, but if Tap water does that to plastic then I can't recommend a Tap Water flush. I don't care how hot the water is, it still has to travel through the Water Heater. Ever pull the element to a water heater? If it's old it's not a pretty site. Just say no to Tap Water. Friends don't let friends Tap Flush and Liquid Cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first thing that came in to my mind when i saw your build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hilarious!

thank you for XD


----------



## mandrix

Getting back to the flushing rad thing.....I've flushed 3 XSPC rads so far and each one had debris.
On using any bottle water vs tap: Some bottled water is only barely better than tap water, depending on where your tap water comes from. Municipal water gets treated chemically but not necessarily filtered to an extreme; it varies greatly but should generally be better than well water, but then those pipes that carry it to you can contain ****.........
DON'T USE SOMETHING LIKE DASANI if you're super paranoid about mineral content! It has been run through an RO system but minerals are added back. I know for a fact.

Well water is most likely to contain high mineral content, but it's in the form of dissolved solids and even a 1 micron filter will NOT remove all of it. An RO system could remove all, or almost all.

On using distilled 100% vs tap then rinsing with distilled: As a general statement, unless your water contains particulates it's unlikely the dissolved solids in the water are going to add any appreciable amount of matter, if you are not literally running tap water through for days. But if the water is SO "hard" that buildup accumulates then flushing with distilled will likely do nothing.
Especially bad would be people that have high iron content in the water, I wouldn't flush with it at all if I didn't have to.

So, yeah, 100% distilled and/or vinegar would probably be best. But I flushed about 1/2 hour with my well water after a hot vinegar douche then followed with distilled. :shrug:

I worked in the water bottling industry for Coke as a Lab Tech for 8 years before I retired, I tested water every day both physically and biologically. My opinion is getting the debris out left over from the manufacturing process is probably most important. But if you know you have really crappy well water then just don't use it.

There are always exceptions, but I tried to lay it out as I see it. YMMV.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

What is the process for using distilled? Just pour it into the rad and shake it, then empty and repeat?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies for bringing this up 3 pages late but regarding flushing with Tap Water issue...
> 
> I see no reason to even contemplate using Tap Water to flush anything in a water cooling loop.
> 
> Here are my reasons.
> 
> 1) The price of Distilled is cheap enough to make it the preferred solution. Especially for those who have to pay for their water usage or even if you're on a Well.
> 
> 2) If you have Hard Water it can do some nasty things to the flow chambers of the Radiator. Including cause blockage(s) due to mineral/calcification deposits.
> 
> 3) Vinegar(if you do Vinegar flush which I wholly recommend) is mixed with Distilled to approximately 5% acidity +/- a percent or so. The information is on the jug.
> 
> 4) Unreliable PSI information regarding water pressure. Are you on a pressure booster? Many apartment complexes run a booster due to low pressure at the main.
> 
> ~Ceadder


1. It has nothing to do with price
2. If this ever happened from 15 mins of rinsing, then that water you have is not even safe to drink or to use for food.
3. Correct, but I'm not sure what you are getting at. Vinegar will conduct electricity, but poorly.
4. The reason I connect my rad to the facet is because you can flush it under pressure. Just poring distilled and shaking can just move the heave particles farther back in to the rad making it harder to get them out. As for over pressuring the rad, this is why I just use tape and not a barb connection to attach it to the sink, the tape will give before the rad.

If you are worried that you might be adding minerals to the distilled from using tap water, this is why I use one gallon for my final rinse to dilute anything left in the rad and why it is my first step. If you are worried about bio contamination, use a kill coil or a biocide, guessing you already do.

BTW Martin flushes with tap water, this is where I got it from.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> 1. It has nothing to do with price
> 2. If this ever happened from 15 mins of rinsing, then that water you have is not even safe to drink or to use for food.
> 3. Correct, but I'm not sure what you are getting at. Vinegar will conduct electricity, but poorly.
> 4. The reason I connect my rad to the facet is because you can flush it under pressure. Just poring distilled and shaking can just move the heave particles farther back in to the rad making it harder to get them out. As for over pressuring the rad, this is why I just use tape and not a barb connection to attach it to the sink, the tape will give before the rad.
> If you are worried that you might be adding minerals to the distilled from using tap water, this is why I use one gallon for my final rinse to dilute anything left in the rad and why it is my first step. If you are worried about bio contamination, use a kill coil or a biocide, guessing you already do.
> BTW Martin flushes with tap water, this is where I got it from.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


This.

I would be more worried about putting vinegar in a rad TBH.....


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm talking about just to flush the rads. I don't even have all my parts in yet so I figured this was something I could go ahead and take care of while I'm waiting. I'm also going to be using Mayhems premix coolant in my rig whenever I get it all put together...


I ended up doing the same thing. I assembled my loop configuration inside my case first, then on a later date as I came closer to finishing the project, I disassembled it and rinsed my rads and blocks out. That was a month ago, and I used boiling vinegar and distilled water for the flush.


----------



## Fonne

Fullcover to fit the Lightning from EK (Not total finish)

 ...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Knew it was going to be CSQ! Would have been so much better if I could've water-cooled my Lightnings instead of buying reference blocks but I refuse to ruin the aesthetics of my signature build with crop circles (well, if the rest of the blocks were already CSQ it wouldn't be so bad but I already have the "old" blocks which would look stupid with these)...


----------



## u3b3rg33k

I don't see a problem with flushing a new rad with tap water - until you get the gunk out, why spend money (and what does it matter what the water pressure is? you're not really pressurizing the system unless you restrict exit flow or hook it up to a garden hose tap - I once asked koolance, and they told me they pressure tested to 70psi, IIRC).

I do it all the time (well, every once in a while when I re-build stuff). Then I flush it a few times with RO water before filling it with coolant.


----------



## TiHawk560

Hi guys. I'm new here. One of my first few posts. I just thought I'd share pics of my current rig and try to join the club!









Once a 670 full cover block goes up for retail I will be changing a few things. Adding a 120mm radiator in the rear of the case and switching the reservoir and blue coolant.




























On a side note here is a goodie I will show from my inbox yesterday. I pray it will look like their 690 block because it could not suit my build any better.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiHawk560*
> 
> Hi guys. I'm new here. One of my first few posts. I just thought I'd share pics of my current rig and try to join the club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once a 670 full cover block goes up for retail I will be changing a few things. Adding a 120mm radiator in the rear of the case and switching the reservoir and blue coolant.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note here is a goodie I will show from my inbox yesterday. I pray it will look like their 690 block because it could not suit my build any better.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I like your fan "Dead zone" eliminator


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I like your fan "Dead zone" eliminator




http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_985&products_id=25684


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I like your fan "Dead zone" eliminator


Thanks. I haven't tested the loop without the shroud but I am sure it saves a degree or 2. I will test this out next time I have to take it apart.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiHawk560*


Looks like your 670 is bowing a bit. Make sure you get a back-plate for it when you watercool it.

Also, EK had some 670 blocks in stock yesterday when they were released (found here). Looks like they ran out pretty quick.


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Looks like your 670 is bowing a bit. Make sure you get a back-plate for it when you watercool it.
> Also, EK had some 670 blocks in stock yesterday when they were released (found here). Looks like they ran out pretty quick.


I noticed that bow as well.







I tried to make sure there is slack on the PCIE cables but somehow it still ended up bowing. I will definitely get a backplate not only for the support but for sexy factor.









Those EK blocks are tempting and despite the funky circles would look great in my build however there is one major drawback I see to those cards. It appears as though the fittings have only 1 place to attach to the block and that is at the bottom which poses a problem for my loop going from cpu to gpu. I don't want any funky looking fitting attachments in there if possible but it just might end up being the route I take depending on the style of the XSPC full cover block.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiHawk560*
> 
> Those EK blocks are tempting and despite the funky circles would look great in my build however there is one major drawback I see to those cards. It appears as though the fittings have only 1 place to attach to the block and that is at the bottom which poses a problem for my loop going from cpu to gpu. I don't want any funky looking fitting attachments in there if possible but it just might end up being the route I take depending on the style of the XSPC full cover block.


That is one thing that drove me nuts about them too. I can look past the circle design but their "link" implementation is downright stupid. Forces us to purchasing one of their multi-link adapters.

I'm looking forward to XSPC, Aquacomputer, Koolance, or what Heatkiller has to offer. As long as the VRM area is being cooled that is all that matters to me.


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> That is one thing that drove me nuts about them too. I can look past the circle design but their "link" implementation is downright stupid. Forces us to purchasing one of their multi-link adapters.
> I'm looking forward to XSPC, Aquacomputer, Koolance, or what Heatkiller has to offer. As long as the VRM area is being cooled that is all that matters to me.


Yes as long as the GPU faces downwards we can all pretty much look past it.









Aquacomputer and Heatkiller blocks look alright but the bronze/nickel just doesn't suit my build. I pray pray pray the XPSC will look the same as the 690!


----------



## u3b3rg33k

That dead zone eliminator looks like you could stuff a nice hunk of large pore foam filter in it and save yourself some cleaning hassle (assuming you could slide the foam out...)


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Nice job. Looks really clean!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiHawk560*
> 
> Hi guys. I'm new here. One of my first few posts. I just thought I'd share pics of my current rig and try to join the club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once a 670 full cover block goes up for retail I will be changing a few things. Adding a 120mm radiator in the rear of the case and switching the reservoir and blue coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note here is a goodie I will show from my inbox yesterday. I pray it will look like their 690 block because it could not suit my build any better.


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> That dead zone eliminator looks like you could stuff a nice hunk of large pore foam filter in it and save yourself some cleaning hassle (assuming you could slide the foam out...)


I could but I think that would reduce my performance. The foam would also be really hard to get out but regardless my maintenance will not be simple because of the way I had to mount the radiator. I am simply going to add in some screen mesh ontop of that Phobya radiator grill protecting my fans.

I love the Shinobi so much I have another Shinobi mod coming up in a couple of months that involves some really really cool modifications.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

It was worth mentioning as an idea. I just hit mine with the air compressor every six months - that seems to keep temps (and dust) in check.


----------



## wermad

Ugh, I really want to go to a thicker tube. I hate using all these angled fittings


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Actually for the people complaning about the circles on EK's new design( I was one of them ), the blocks look better in person than some reference photo. The build quality is definately there. I'm happy I went ahead and got my DCII block, it's performing great.

But EK should still offer both the old and new style for purchase though imo.


----------



## ViperSB1

Please add me to the club... finally done with the build. For now anyways...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Please add me to the club... finally done with the build. For now anyways...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is ultra clean mate









I love the mid-floor support


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is ultra clean mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the mid-floor support


LOL! I tried to go with a black and chrome industrial look. I will likely switch to all red lighting, I'm not really liking the blue/red combo but I ran out of red LED's.








The mid floor support is two Craftsman deep sockets I got to fit into each other tightly so it's adjustable. Was only going to be temporary but I actually love it now.









Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> LOL! I tried to go with a black and chrome industrial look. I will likely switch to all red lighting, I'm not really liking the blue/red combo but I ran out of red LED's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mid floor support is two Craftsman deep sockets I got to fit into each other tightly so it's adjustable. Was only going to be temporary but I actually love it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Well, you at least got the colors cordinating and not just thrown in there. Almost looks like a ying/yang effect. I like it


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Love how you did the pump under the res. How did you mount that?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ugh, I really want to go to a thicker tube. I hate using all these angled fittings


I think it would look better too, that case is BIG it would help fill it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Please add me to the club... finally done with the build. For now anyways...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Super clean


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Love how you did the pump under the res. How did you mount that?


Looks like he just used a bit of tubing and some fittings. I used an XSPC male-male G1/4 fitting to suspend my pump below the res, worked really well.


----------



## Plutonium10

Anyone using a Heatkiller Rev 3 CPU block? I'm really considering a Heatkiller GPU block for my first custom build and my OCD makes me want to buy a matching set of CPU and GPU blocks. From what I've read, the Rev 3 performs well but has a hard-to-use mounting system compared to the other CPU block I've been considering (Swiftech Apogee HD)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Anyone using a Heatkiller Rev 3 CPU block? *I'm really considering a Heatkiller GPU block* for my first custom build and my OCD makes me want to buy a matching set of CPU and GPU blocks. From what I've read, the Rev 3 performs well but has a hard-to-use mounting system compared to the other CPU block I've been considering (Swiftech Apogee HD)


Actually, in my personal experience, HK gpu blocks have been a breeze to install. Some of the earlier and recent (within the last year) EK blocks have been a pita to install mostly due to the loose standoffs you have to position with tim (eewwwww). They have sorted this to follow with what other makers have done.

As far the cpu block. Most of the blocks are pretty close. The HK 3.0 block has its years but its still a great cpu. I wouldn't pay retail for it. The Swiftech HD is a great performer. Most good cpu blocks are within a few if not fractions of a degree of each other. I've tried XSPC and EK cpu blocks and EK's new "easy mount" system is very good.


----------



## Plutonium10

Yeah, I am still leaning towards the Apogee HD. Swiftech stuff in general seems to be good and they have great customer service from what I hear. However they lack a waterblock for the 680 (Except for EVGA Hydro, I guess.)

Edit: As for EK, I'm trying to stay away from them right now. I really wanted to like their stuff but the great nickel fiasco and hideous new polka-dot waterblock designs were enough to scare me off.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Yeah, I am still leaning towards the Apogee HD. Swiftech stuff in general seems to be good and they have great customer service from what I hear. However they lack a waterblock for the 680 (Except for EVGA Hydro, I guess.)


Swiftech/EVGA blocks haven't been receiving good praise. I would skip them. Koolance makes some nice nickel blocks (cpu an gpu). They have a bit of an industrial look to them, so it maybe love it or hate it decision. I would recommend HK gpu blocks but don't pay retail price for the cpu block. At this money, there are quite a few better options.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Swiftech/EVGA blocks haven't been receiving good praise. I would skip them. Koolance makes some nice nickel blocks (cpu an gpu). They have a bit of an industrial look to them, so it maybe love it or hate it decision. I would recommend HK gpu blocks but don't pay retail price for the cpu block. At this money, there are quite a few better options.


I'm not adverse to the Koolance look. Thanks for the input, it's really helpful.


----------



## wermad

^^^Np mate









I couldn't stand my loop design







.

3/8x5/8 compression fittings ordered









Need tube now


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for bringing this up 3 pages late but regarding flushing with Tap Water issue...
> 
> I see no reason to even contemplate using Tap Water to flush anything in a water cooling loop.
> 
> Here are my reasons.
> 
> 1) The price of Distilled is cheap enough to make it the preferred solution. Especially for those who have to pay for their water usage or even if you're on a Well.
> 
> 2) If you have Hard Water it can do some nasty things to the flow chambers of the Radiator. Including cause blockage(s) due to mineral/calcification deposits.
> 
> 3) Vinegar(if you do Vinegar flush which I wholly recommend) is mixed with Distilled to approximately 5% acidity +/- a percent or so. The information is on the jug.
> 
> 4) Unreliable PSI information regarding water pressure. Are you on a pressure booster? Many apartment complexes run a booster due to low pressure at the main.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. It has nothing to do with price
> 2. If this ever happened from 15 mins of rinsing, then that water you have is not even safe to drink or to use for food.
> 3. Correct, but I'm not sure what you are getting at. Vinegar will conduct electricity, but poorly.
> 4. The reason I connect my rad to the facet is because you can flush it under pressure. Just poring distilled and shaking can just move the heave particles farther back in to the rad making it harder to get them out. As for over pressuring the rad, this is why I just use tape and not a barb connection to attach it to the sink, the tape will give before the rad.
> 
> If you are worried that you might be adding minerals to the distilled from using tap water, this is why I use one gallon for my final rinse to dilute anything left in the rad and why it is my first step. If you are worried about bio contamination, use a kill coil or a biocide, guessing you already do.
> 
> BTW Martin flushes with tap water, this is where I got it from.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1. It has nothing to do with price
> 2. If this ever happened from 15 mins of rinsing, then that water you have is not even safe to drink or to use for food.
> 3. Correct, but I'm not sure what you are getting at. Vinegar will conduct electricity, but poorly.
> 4. The reason I connect my rad to the facet is because you can flush it under pressure. Just poring distilled and shaking can just move the heave particles farther back in to the rad making it harder to get them out. As for over pressuring the rad, this is why I just use tape and not a barb connection to attach it to the sink, the tape will give before the rad.
> If you are worried that you might be adding minerals to the distilled from using tap water, this is why I use one gallon for my final rinse to dilute anything left in the rad and why it is my first step. If you are worried about bio contamination, use a kill coil or a biocide, guessing you already do.
> BTW Martin flushes with tap water, this is where I got it from.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This.
> 
> I would be more worried about putting vinegar in a rad TBH.....
Click to expand...

1) I should hope not. Still...









2) Not true. City water has to be potable. It's illegal and a major health risk to send anything less than potable water through the system. Not only that but it also depends on the quality of the pipes.

3) Who said anything about Running Vinegar? It's only used to clear out the excess flux in the Radiator. If you do the job right there won't be any Vinegar left in the Radiator. Performing a HOT flush with 500ml of Vinegar, 500ml of 50/50, 1000ml of Distilled with a cold flush of distilled should get any excess flux left in the system out. Vinegar is acidic but at 5% by volume or less it's not going to hurt a thing and following up with a Distilled flush should make any vinegar that is left behind after the first two steps would and should render the Vinegar inert. Did you seriously think I was suggesting running Vinegar? I hope not.









4) Yes just simply shaking the Radiator can cause the particles to go firther back into the system. However, as I pointed out the pressure for your system may not be the same as the pressure of my system. Suggesting a Tap flush is fine pressure-wise if everyone on the planet has the same psi rating. But no two systems are alike.

Sorry but I'll agree to disagree on the tap water flushes. I don't see the need to do it when I can get a reasonable water filter from Home Depot ~$20 a clean 5 gallon bucket for free and use a submersible pump that runs the same or near the same constant pressure as most any pump available in the open market for water cooling for ~$20 as well. Any debris left behind should get filtered out of the Radiator with the cold flush.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Fullcover to fit the Lightning from EK (Not total finish)
> 
> ...










Can someone pinch me to make sure I'm having a nightmare? I think I need to wake up now. Eddy Krueger might get me.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ugh, I really want to go to a thicker tube. I hate using all these angled fittings


Love your setup though. Don't you have bigger fittings? Coulda swore I saw some 1/2" fittings the last time I saw your fittings case.









That Q Res looks awesome werm.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love your setup though. Don't you have bigger fittings? Coulda swore I saw some 1/2" fittings the last time I saw your fittings case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That Q Res looks awesome werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


They're 3/8x1/2 and are now for sale with extra rolls of Primochill tube.

I bought some Feser 3/8x5/8 compression fittings and picked up a roll of Primochill uv blue. Hit me up if you need any of the stuff I won't need.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for bringing this up 3 pages late but regarding flushing with Tap Water issue...
> 
> I see no reason to even contemplate using Tap Water to flush anything in a water cooling loop.
> 
> Here are my reasons.
> 
> 1) The price of Distilled is cheap enough to make it the preferred solution. Especially for those who have to pay for their water usage or even if you're on a Well.
> 
> 2) If you have Hard Water it can do some nasty things to the flow chambers of the Radiator. Including cause blockage(s) due to mineral/calcification deposits.
> 
> 3) Vinegar(if you do Vinegar flush which I wholly recommend) is mixed with Distilled to approximately 5% acidity +/- a percent or so. The information is on the jug.
> 
> 4) Unreliable PSI information regarding water pressure. Are you on a pressure booster? Many apartment complexes run a booster due to low pressure at the main.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. It has nothing to do with price
> 2. If this ever happened from 15 mins of rinsing, then that water you have is not even safe to drink or to use for food.
> 3. Correct, but I'm not sure what you are getting at. Vinegar will conduct electricity, but poorly.
> 4. The reason I connect my rad to the facet is because you can flush it under pressure. Just poring distilled and shaking can just move the heave particles farther back in to the rad making it harder to get them out. As for over pressuring the rad, this is why I just use tape and not a barb connection to attach it to the sink, the tape will give before the rad.
> 
> If you are worried that you might be adding minerals to the distilled from using tap water, this is why I use one gallon for my final rinse to dilute anything left in the rad and why it is my first step. If you are worried about bio contamination, use a kill coil or a biocide, guessing you already do.
> 
> BTW Martin flushes with tap water, this is where I got it from.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1. It has nothing to do with price
> 2. If this ever happened from 15 mins of rinsing, then that water you have is not even safe to drink or to use for food.
> 3. Correct, but I'm not sure what you are getting at. Vinegar will conduct electricity, but poorly.
> 4. The reason I connect my rad to the facet is because you can flush it under pressure. Just poring distilled and shaking can just move the heave particles farther back in to the rad making it harder to get them out. As for over pressuring the rad, this is why I just use tape and not a barb connection to attach it to the sink, the tape will give before the rad.
> If you are worried that you might be adding minerals to the distilled from using tap water, this is why I use one gallon for my final rinse to dilute anything left in the rad and why it is my first step. If you are worried about bio contamination, use a kill coil or a biocide, guessing you already do.
> BTW Martin flushes with tap water, this is where I got it from.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This.
> 
> I would be more worried about putting vinegar in a rad TBH.....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) I should hope not. Still...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Not true. City water has to be potable. It's illegal and a major health risk to send anything less than potable water through the system. Not only that but it also depends on the quality of the pipes.
> 
> 3) Who said anything about Running Vinegar? It's only used to clear out the excess flux in the Radiator. If you do the job right there won't be any Vinegar left in the Radiator. Performing a HOT flush with 500ml of Vinegar, 500ml of 50/50, 1000ml of Distilled with a cold flush of distilled should get any excess flux left in the system out. Vinegar is acidic but at 5% by volume or less it's not going to hurt a thing and following up with a Distilled flush should make any vinegar that is left behind after the first two steps would and should render the Vinegar inert. Did you seriously think I was suggesting running Vinegar? I hope not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) Yes just simply shaking the Radiator can cause the particles to go firther back into the system. However, as I pointed out the pressure for your system may not be the same as the pressure of my system. Suggesting a Tap flush is fine pressure-wise if everyone on the planet has the same psi rating. But no two systems are alike.
> 
> Sorry but I'll agree to disagree on the tap water flushes. I don't see the need to do it when I can get a reasonable water filter from Home Depot ~$20 a clean 5 gallon bucket for free and use a submersible pump that runs the same or near the same constant pressure as most any pump available in the open market for water cooling for ~$20 as well. Any debris left behind should get filtered out of the Radiator with the cold flush.
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

No I didn't think you were running vinegar, I just wasn't sure what you where getting at and took a guess, lol. You never said anything about having a pump. If I had one to use for flushing with distilled I would, but I don't so I use tap water. I think the important part is you need pressure for a good flush.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Please add me to the club... finally done with the build. For now anyways...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. I envy you guys with camera skills and I wish I knew how to use this camera I bought for my wife to get pics to turn out like that. Almost has a painted look. Any tips? We don't have an expensive camera, it's a Canon PowerShot SX150. I try with/without flash, low lighting, more lighting, dark background, etc but I'm never happy with the shots I take of the rigs. Outdoor images seem pretty good but indoors pretty much suck.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for bringing this up 3 pages late but regarding flushing with Tap Water issue...
> 
> I see no reason to even contemplate using Tap Water to flush anything in a water cooling loop.
> 
> Here are my reasons.
> 
> 1) The price of Distilled is cheap enough to make it the preferred solution. Especially for those who have to pay for their water usage or even if you're on a Well.
> 
> 2) If you have Hard Water it can do some nasty things to the flow chambers of the Radiator. Including cause blockage(s) due to mineral/calcification deposits.
> 
> 3) Vinegar(if you do Vinegar flush which I wholly recommend) is mixed with Distilled to approximately 5% acidity +/- a percent or so. The information is on the jug.
> 
> 4) Unreliable PSI information regarding water pressure. Are you on a pressure booster? Many apartment complexes run a booster due to low pressure at the main.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. It has nothing to do with price
> 2. If this ever happened from 15 mins of rinsing, then that water you have is not even safe to drink or to use for food.
> 3. Correct, but I'm not sure what you are getting at. Vinegar will conduct electricity, but poorly.
> 4. The reason I connect my rad to the facet is because you can flush it under pressure. Just poring distilled and shaking can just move the heave particles farther back in to the rad making it harder to get them out. As for over pressuring the rad, this is why I just use tape and not a barb connection to attach it to the sink, the tape will give before the rad.
> 
> If you are worried that you might be adding minerals to the distilled from using tap water, this is why I use one gallon for my final rinse to dilute anything left in the rad and why it is my first step. If you are worried about bio contamination, use a kill coil or a biocide, guessing you already do.
> 
> BTW Martin flushes with tap water, this is where I got it from.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1. It has nothing to do with price
> 2. If this ever happened from 15 mins of rinsing, then that water you have is not even safe to drink or to use for food.
> 3. Correct, but I'm not sure what you are getting at. Vinegar will conduct electricity, but poorly.
> 4. The reason I connect my rad to the facet is because you can flush it under pressure. Just poring distilled and shaking can just move the heave particles farther back in to the rad making it harder to get them out. As for over pressuring the rad, this is why I just use tape and not a barb connection to attach it to the sink, the tape will give before the rad.
> If you are worried that you might be adding minerals to the distilled from using tap water, this is why I use one gallon for my final rinse to dilute anything left in the rad and why it is my first step. If you are worried about bio contamination, use a kill coil or a biocide, guessing you already do.
> BTW Martin flushes with tap water, this is where I got it from.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This.
> 
> I would be more worried about putting vinegar in a rad TBH.....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) I should hope not. Still...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Not true. City water has to be potable. It's illegal and a major health risk to send anything less than potable water through the system. Not only that but it also depends on the quality of the pipes.
> 
> 3) Who said anything about Running Vinegar? It's only used to clear out the excess flux in the Radiator. If you do the job right there won't be any Vinegar left in the Radiator. Performing a HOT flush with 500ml of Vinegar, 500ml of 50/50, 1000ml of Distilled with a cold flush of distilled should get any excess flux left in the system out. Vinegar is acidic but at 5% by volume or less it's not going to hurt a thing and following up with a Distilled flush should make any vinegar that is left behind after the first two steps would and should render the Vinegar inert. Did you seriously think I was suggesting running Vinegar? I hope not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) Yes just simply shaking the Radiator can cause the particles to go firther back into the system. However, as I pointed out the pressure for your system may not be the same as the pressure of my system. Suggesting a Tap flush is fine pressure-wise if everyone on the planet has the same psi rating. But no two systems are alike.
> 
> Sorry but I'll agree to disagree on the tap water flushes. I don't see the need to do it when I can get a reasonable water filter from Home Depot ~$20 a clean 5 gallon bucket for free and use a submersible pump that runs the same or near the same constant pressure as most any pump available in the open market for water cooling for ~$20 as well. Any debris left behind should get filtered out of the Radiator with the cold flush.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No I didn't think you were running vinegar, I just wasn't sure what you where getting at and took a guess, lol. You never said anything about having a pump. If I had one to use for flushing with distilled I would, but I don't so I use tap water. I think the important part is you need pressure for a good flush.
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry I see where I probably should have made it clearer.

If you're gonna be flushing radiators I would recommend a cheap garden pump and tubing to connect everything if you can't get a filter you can use a mesh/screen strainer atop the bucket and drill two holes just below the final rib where the bucket is most rigid. Fill it with Distilled and connect the pump start it up and watch it flow.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hamy144

My first desktop PC, first self built PC, first time water cooling, first case mod and first time voiding a warranty
Latest pic from my current project



Still waiting on my pump top from aquatuning, they do take their time
More details in the log and more/better pics are still to come


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That's a lot of "firsts"! Congrats!


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Actually for the people complaning about the circles on EK's new design( I was one of them ), the blocks look better in person than some reference photo. The build quality is definately there. I'm happy I went ahead and got my DCII block, it's performing great.
> But EK should still offer both the old and new style for purchase though imo.


what i have been telling everybody now that i own three. these things are incredible!


----------



## Fuganater

Threw a quick WC setup in to the Azza Fusion 4000 for my review.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Love how you did the pump under the res. How did you mount that?


I mounted the reservoir to the pump with a simple XSPC 5mm male to male G1/4 fitting. The way the pump and res are mounted to the case... thats a different story. I am actually quite proud of my for pulling that off...







Came out far better than I ever though it would.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Very nice. I envy you guys with camera skills and I wish I knew how to use this camera I bought for my wife to get pics to turn out like that. Almost has a painted look. Any tips? We don't have an expensive camera, it's a Canon PowerShot SX150. I try with/without flash, low lighting, more lighting, dark background, etc but I'm never happy with the shots I take of the rigs. Outdoor images seem pretty good but indoors pretty much suck.


This is actually the first time I've gotten some decent shots of my rig. I'm using a decent point and shoot, Nikon S8000 I believe... this time I got a tri-pod and set the iso level down low, seems to make a huge difference as the exposure time is longer. Absolutely had to use a tri-pod for that with my shaky hands... lol


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I mounted the reservoir to the pump with a simple XSPC 5mm male to male G1/4 fitting. The way the pump and res are mounted to the case... thats a different story. I am actually quite proud of my for pulling that off...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came out far better than I ever though it would.
> This is actually the first time I've gotten some decent shots of my rig. I'm using a decent point and shoot, Nikon S8000 I believe... this time I got a tri-pod and set the iso level down low, seems to make a huge difference as the exposure time is longer. Absolutely had to use a tri-pod for that with my shaky hands... lol


here is a thread about taking pics of rigs . . .

http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig

at mandrix, i am still keeping tabs of your build.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Finally got it finished. What do you guys think?
.


----------



## wermad

^^^Awesome. I love the dual reservoirs.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Finally got it finished. What do you guys think?
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


God That is a beautiful thing.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^Awesome. I love the dual reservoirs.


Thanks. Thought about going with dual frozen Helixs, but already had these, and I've spent way to much on this hobby already. Probably in a couple month when I do maintenance I may gets some.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Finally got it finished. What do you guys think?
> .


Absolutely stunning. The only things that bug me are the white fans -- they really stick out. Maybe if just the blades were white?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> God That is a beautiful thing.


Thank you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Absolutely stunning. The only things that bug me are the white fans -- they really stick out. Maybe if just the blades were white?


Ya, i got those fans cause i thought they would go good with the scheme. But im not impressed by them. They dont move much air. I have 3 phantek fans coming ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15625/fan-980/Phanteks_120mm_x_25mm_UFB_Bearing_Fan_-_White_Frame_Black_Blade_PH-F120S_BK.html?tl=g36c15s60 ) to replace the mb chamber ones, I have 5 already on the bottom back and they move quite a bit of air and r dead silent and look pretty good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Say what you want but Yate Loons will run circles round those fans. I love my Yates. Only other fan I would entertain getting are the new Corsairs or Gentle Typhoons. Typhoons are too expensive imho though which is one reason I don't have any.









~Ceadder


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*


What reservoirs are those? I'm looking for something clean and simple like that.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> What reservoirs are those? I'm looking for something clean and simple like that.


Looks like a Bitspower Z-Multi like this one.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> What reservoirs are those? I'm looking for something clean and simple like that.


Bitspower z-multi 150 res.


----------



## Plutonium10

Looks nice. Heard they're bad for sucking air back into the system though.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I mounted the reservoir to the pump with a simple XSPC 5mm male to male G1/4 fitting. *The way the pump and res are mounted to the case... thats a different story.* I am actually quite proud of my for pulling that off...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came out far better than I ever though it would.
> This is actually the first time I've gotten some decent shots of my rig. I'm using a decent point and shoot, Nikon S8000 I believe... this time I got a tri-pod and set the iso level down low, seems to make a huge difference as the exposure time is longer. Absolutely had to use a tri-pod for that with my shaky hands... lol


That's really what I was asking! I can understand if you don't want to give out trade secrets though..


----------



## nabarun

my 2 gtx 680's watercooled

never pass 50°c under full load


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I mounted the reservoir to the pump with a simple XSPC 5mm male to male G1/4 fitting. The way the pump and res are mounted to the case... thats a different story. I am actually quite proud of my for pulling that off...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came out far better than I ever though it would.
> This is actually the first time I've gotten some decent shots of my rig. I'm using a decent point and shoot, Nikon S8000 I believe... this time I got a tri-pod and set the iso level down low, seems to make a huge difference as the exposure time is longer. Absolutely had to use a tri-pod for that with my shaky hands... lol


Yes, I have a hard time holding the camera still as well. I'll check the camera settings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> here is a thread about taking pics of rigs . . .
> http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig
> at mandrix, i am still keeping tabs of your build.


Thanks rdr09, didn't think anyone was, lol. It's going slow but going. Sleeving the Seasonic has just about kicked my butt and is going to take a while. I will never ever sleeve another one.


----------



## smileytown

just finished this build today.



build log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1274610/smileytowns-bitfenix-prodigy-build-log/20#post_17604248


----------



## johnko1

Prodigy is a really good small case


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I want to mount Bitspower temperature probes into my loop and am trying to figure out where I could mount them. The only two places I can think to put them are on the Bitspower D5 pump top and on the EK FC Bridge. Would these be the best two places to put them? I don't really think the aesthetics of mounting one to the FC Bridge would be that great so i may just put one in the pump top and be done with it...


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I want to mount Bitspower temperature probes into my loop and am trying to figure out where I could mount them. The only two places I can think to put them are on the Bitspower D5 pump top and on the EK FC Bridge. Would these be the best two places to put them? I don't really think the aesthetics of mounting one to the FC Bridge would be that great so i may just put one in the pump top and be done with it...


Well some people say if you mount it on the pump top it will be a few C hotter than what the actual water temp is.

I normally put them on my res or use a Q/T connector somewhere in the loop.


----------



## Riskitall84

My new baby, still a few things to do but I am out of money till my next pay day









EK HF Supreme Nickel Acetal
EK FC-7970 Nickel Acetal
MCP355 & EK Acetal Top
PA140.4 & 4 Cooler Master R4's ( Will be changing them for Enermax Clusters White)
Black EK Compression Fittings
XPSC White 1/2 3/4 Tubing


----------



## JozefH

My rig that I just rebuilt. Enjoy


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> just finished this build today.
> 
> build log:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1274610/smileytowns-bitfenix-prodigy-build-log/20#post_17604248


Hey great build. I love the prodigy so much I am considering selling the wife's PC and rebuilding it in a prodigy.


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Finally got it finished. What do you guys think?
> .


Nice watercooling build you got there mate and the chair! May I know what chair is that?


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> just finished this build today.
> 
> build log:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1274610/smileytowns-bitfenix-prodigy-build-log/20#post_17604248


Why didn't you use a 240 in the top?
and a 200 in the front.

ANOTHER EDIT: I see why you didn't use a 200 in the front.

EDIT: I really don't like to be THAT guy.

I'm not hating on your build, You've done a great Job


----------



## mm67

Moved my hardware to a new case


----------



## bomberjun

*BLACKBOX*


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Moved my hardware to a new case


Wow, great use of space









EDIT: Interesting way to mount that Res/Pump +1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> *BLACKBOX*


Need more close ups


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please use spoiler tags when quoting pictures.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

here a update on my ghetto TH10 lol
not the best quality


----------



## Equ1l13r1um

Joining the club







Here's my rig,







More pics in my sig rig









Dave


----------



## Plutonium10

I'm looking for advice on a case. I had been set on a Corsair 650D, but now I'm also thinking about an 800D or some other $200-$300 case with compartments that would allow me to hide a pump, small reservoir and drain line somewhere out of sight, even with a full-panel side window mod. It would be cool if I could gain access to the pump and res by taking the back panel off.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm looking for advice on a case. I had been set on a Corsair 650D, but now I'm also thinking about an 800D or some other $200-$300 case with compartments that would allow me to hide a pump, small reservoir and drain line somewhere out of sight, even with a full-panel side window mod. It would be cool if I could gain access to the pump and res by taking the back panel off.


Check out the Cosmos II. I love the 800D but I wouldn't pay more than $200 for it seeing that some other cases have more and/or something different to offer at this price point.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Check out the Cosmos II. I love the 800D but I wouldn't pay more than $200 for it seeing that some other cases have more and/or something different to offer at this price point.


Thanks, I'll have a look.







It's taking me a long time to actually decide what parts I want for this build, but it'll be worth it in the end.


----------



## Shogo3232

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Please add me to the club... finally done with the build. For now anyways...






first looks great!

what size tube res is that? i just got a 200mm and its too big for what i have planned.

also what did u use to support the floor?


----------



## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm looking for advice on a case. I had been set on a Corsair 650D, but now I'm also thinking about an 800D or some other $200-$300 case with compartments that would allow me to hide a pump, small reservoir and drain line somewhere out of sight, even with a full-panel side window mod. It would be cool if I could gain access to the pump and res by taking the back panel off.


Take a look at an AZZA Fusion 4000, it has a separate top section but can`t remember if it has a window. Tallllll case !


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdesmo*
> 
> Take a look at an AZZA Fusion 4000, it has a separate top section but can`t remember if it has a window. Tallllll case !


has a sliver of a window. You can always mod it to put a full window in.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Great color scheme and color balancing, Equ1l13r1um!


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> has a sliver of a window. You can always mod it to put a full window in.


No window but looks awesome

Edit: I see it now.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm looking for advice on a case. I had been set on a Corsair 650D, but now I'm also thinking about an 800D or some other $200-$300 case with compartments that would allow me to hide a pump, small reservoir and drain line somewhere out of sight, even with a full-panel side window mod. It would be cool if I could gain access to the pump and res by taking the back panel off.


get an nzxt switch 810 , you can hide things in the removable bays or permanent ones, its cheap but not cheaply built and the support is like no other


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> get an nzxt switch 810 , you can hide things in the removable bays or permanent ones, its cheap but not cheaply built and the support is like no other


Yeah, the Switch looks like a good case. Whatever I buy is going to get the side panel chopped for a bigger window.


----------



## wermad

The fusion 4000 is very unique. That was definitely at the top of my list but since newegg was the only one who offered it for sale and coupled with high shipping and cali tax, it was breaching $300. Settled on the Elysium from amazon, $200 shipped. I've seen the Elysium for $180 amazon. This is an awesome case as a blank canvas. Ready for lots of gear and modding.


----------



## smileytown

i was considering using a 180 rad at the front at first but yeah, 120s is enough for that system.


----------



## Plutonium10

I think if I found an 800D on sale for about $250 I would buy it. Otherwise it'll probably be a 650D or Switch 810. I'm not keen on the Azza 4000 but that's purely personal preference. One reason I like the Corsair cases so much is that the square edges and straight lines remind me of the original Voodoo Omen, which was a very sexy looking machine IMO.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I think if I found an 800D on sale for about $250 I would buy it. Otherwise it'll probably be a 650D or Switch 810. I'm not keen on the Azza 4000 but that's purely personal preference. One reason I like the Corsair cases so much is that the square edges and straight lines remind me of the original Voodoo Omen, which was a very sexy looking machine IMO.


650D vs S810....
i would rather saw my arm off than buy a 650D and for wc'ing purposes. it is barely possible.
I have the s810 and my gf the 650D, and her case it looks good but cable management is the worse of any case i have ever seen and mostly for that i hate it. pretty heavy too for its size, and costs way too much for hat u get. I love my S810 and i havent even finished my build yet. spacious, cable management is a dream, looks like a beaut, and for its size has reasonable weight. plus it comes in 4 colors


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> 650D vs S810....
> i would rather saw my arm off than buy a 650D and for wc'ing purposes. it is barely possible.
> I have the s810 and my gf the 650D, and her case it looks good but cable management is the worse of any case i have ever seen and mostly for that i hate it. pretty heavy too for its size, and costs way too much for hat u get. I love my S810 and i havent even finished my build yet. spacious, cable management is a dream, looks like a beaut, and for its size has reasonable weight. plus it comes in 4 colors


I thought 650D was really good for cable management.







I know it can only fit a 240 or 280 rad in the top but that's all I really need for this build.


----------



## protzman

i mean you can hide cables, but when i say cables i mean like 4. it was almost impossible to close the back panel after i had her's wired up and everything hidden nicely behind the mobo tray. Now i know u said u like straight edges but my current rig is the corsair 600T and cable management on that thing is killer. it's probably to do with the shape of the panels but it works so much better than that 650D.

Again tho, dont let me sway your decisions, these are just my first hand experiences!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> i mean you can hide cables, but when i say cables i mean like 4. it was almost impossible to close the back panel after i had her's wired up and everything hidden nicely behind the mobo tray. Now i know u said u like straight edges but my current rig is the corsair 600T and cable management on that thing is killer. it's probably to do with the shape of the panels but it works so much better than that 650D.
> Again tho, dont let me sway your decisions, these are just my first hand experiences!


Oh ok, you mean a lack of space in the back panel. Never seen it mentioned in any reviews but I'll need to look into it.


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I thought 650D was really good for cable management.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it can only fit a 240 or 280 rad in the top but that's all I really need for this build.


My first PC case was a 650D. I had no problems with cable management. The key to good cable management is to not cross any cables over eachother or at least as little as possible.







I always start with the cables connected to you front panel and then work your way with the biggest cables first to the smallest ones.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiHawk560*
> 
> My first PC case was a 650D. I had no problems with cable management. The key to good cable management is to not cross any cables over eachother or at least as little as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always start with the cables connected to you front panel and then work your way with the biggest cables first to the smallest ones.


Ok, thanks. How did you like the case in general?


----------



## NASzi

Installed CPU Watercooling loop Friday, will be adding more things in the future, probably a couple of 120 rads, Have another GTX 680 ordered and eventually will add both GTX 680's into the loop.


----------



## simonfredette

looks good man , you should probably coil that back hose if you still have some coil though, it kinda jumps at you and the res tubing with black coil looks sick, all you have to do now is get a block for the 680 and find a spot for another rad. Great build and awesome case mod !


----------



## Hamy144

Right I need urgent help!
Put together my loop but I can only source purified water, I was planning to run distilled but I can find It anywhere.
So I know there are quite a few differences but how much will it harm me? I don't care about damage to a block just will it erode any of the tubing or o rings?
It's "Ultrapure Labratories Purified Water B.P." if that helps


----------



## TiHawk560

Have you checked with a local pharmacy? Behind the counter?

My pharm sells distilled water both for drinking and for pharmaceutical reasons. They should have distilled water behind the counter. Also you know it is possible to distill your own water with some extra hours on your hand and a little craftiness.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> looks good man , you should probably coil that back hose if you still have some coil though, it kinda jumps at you and the res tubing with black coil looks sick, all you have to do now is get a block for the 680 and find a spot for another rad. Great build and awesome case mod !


Thanks, when I originally ran the tubing I wasn't sure if I was going to put the coils on but after everything was together, I tried it out and loved it, only problem was I realized how much of a pain it would be to try to coil that back tube because it's so tight back there, plus you can't even see the tube with the side on the case so I just didn't worry about it.

Thanks again for the kind words!


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiHawk560*
> 
> Have you checked with a local pharmacy? Behind the counter?
> My pharm sells distilled water both for drinking and for pharmaceutical reasons. They should have distilled water behind the counter. Also you know it is possible to distill your own water with some extra hours on your hand and a little craftiness.


I got this from my local pharmacy thats all they had
I know I could distill it my self but that would take a wee while and a bit too much haste in my opinion
But you didn't actually answer any of my questions


----------



## Striknine

It's alive! I got my beast running finally. I still got more work but it's running good.


























http://www.overclock.net/t/1250338/build-log-remedy-rive-3930k-caselabs-sth10/0_20


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Right I need urgent help!
> Put together my loop but I can only source purified water, I was planning to run distilled but I can find It anywhere.
> So I know there are quite a few differences but how much will it harm me? I don't care about damage to a block just will it erode any of the tubing or o rings?
> It's "Ultrapure Labratories Purified Water B.P." if that helps


purified water will still contain minerals that can eventually cause build up in the really small areas of your blocks and around o-rings which could eventually break them down.
you'll be ok to run it for a few days but i wouldnt stick with it - keep looking around for distilled water and make sure you give it a good flush when you switch over.


----------



## Equ1l13r1um

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Great color scheme and color balancing, Equ1l13r1um!


Appreciate the kind words, thank you









Dave


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Right I need urgent help!
> Put together my loop but I can only source purified water, I was planning to run distilled but I can find It anywhere.
> So I know there are quite a few differences but how much will it harm me? I don't care about damage to a block just will it erode any of the tubing or o rings?
> It's "Ultrapure Labratories Purified Water B.P." if that helps


Thats really odd , usually you can find distilled anywhere in 4L jugs , walmart pharmacy or any grocery store even.. Purified is better than tap water by a landslide but I wouldnt use it permanently , just use it for now and flush with distilled when you get it. For the purified to start causing trouble youd have to leave it long enough for it to react and cause bad stuff to happen , wont be overnight.


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> But you didn't actually answer any of my questions


I'm sorry I don't know the answer to your questions. I should have stated. I have just set up my first custom loop only a couple months ago myself. I just wanted to make sure you knew to ask behind the counter as well.

Cheers


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striknine*
> 
> It's alive! I got my beast running finally. I still got more work but it's running good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1250338/build-log-remedy-rive-3930k-caselabs-sth10/0_20






Too sexy! Which GPU's?

*edit* fixed for spoiler


----------



## jackofhearts495

^ use spoilers to quote more than one pic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please use spoiler tags for quoted pictures,i will start asking for posts to be removed otherwise.
Thank you.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Thats really odd , usually you can find distilled anywhere in 4L jugs , walmart pharmacy or any grocery store even.. Purified is better than tap water by a landslide but I wouldnt use it permanently , just use it for now and flush with distilled when you get it. For the purified to start causing trouble youd have to leave it long enough for it to react and cause bad stuff to happen , wont be overnight.


Firstly I live in Northern Ireland which has no Walmart.
Here you cannot just go out and buy something you may not think something as distilled water would be a specialist item but it is.
The worst thing is you can buy it online but the shipping here is crazy even from just mainland uk
I'm just going to run it until I find somewhere that doesn't charge £100 to ship it


----------



## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Please use spoiler tags for quoted pictures,i will start asking for posts to be removed otherwise.
> Thank you.


Is there an article on how to do it ? thanks


----------



## driftingforlife

Just highlight the quote and click the little black box out of the line of tools.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Firstly I live in Northern Ireland which has no Walmart.
> Here you cannot just go out and buy something you may not think something as distilled water would be a specialist item but it is.
> The worst thing is you can buy it online but the shipping here is crazy even from just mainland uk
> I'm just going to run it until I find somewhere that doesn't charge £100 to ship it


Just buy DI water from Halfords and be done with it.
I use it,its all i have ever used and i have had no problems.


----------



## skitzab1

got near a conection long enuff for a small update


















almost done moving


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> ^ use spoilers to quote more than one pic


Sorry about that. fixed.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Here's some pics for mine finally. Thinking I could use some 45 degree angled fittings.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Right I need urgent help!
> Put together my loop but I can only source purified water, I was planning to run distilled but I can find It anywhere.
> So I know there are quite a few differences but how much will it harm me? I don't care about damage to a block just will it erode any of the tubing or o rings?
> It's "Ultrapure Labratories Purified Water B.P." if that helps


Order it online if all else fails


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*


What are the temps like for that 670 FTW in the 650D? That's exactly what I'm thinking of buying.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Well the fan isn't too aggressive, and my room temps can get pretty hot so on load it hasn't gone above the low 70's. Again, a more aggressive fan profile would probably make it lower.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Well the fan isn't too aggressive, and my room temps can get pretty hot so on load it hasn't gone above the low 70's. Again, a more aggressive fan profile would probably make it lower.


Are those low 70s from benchmarking the card, or just gaming?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Just ordered two Sapphire 7970 OC cards for my FC7970 blocks. Looking to start installing my blocks on the 4th and to begin filming my video build log!


----------



## Hamy144

Well now my block is making an awfuly loud noise, I'll wait and see if it quietens down any and if it's just air but its louder than the pump


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*


Wow, I love that keyboard. Really matches your builds.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Are those low 70s from benchmarking the card, or just gaming?


Gaming. I don't remember what the temps were running Unigine Heaven. I'll re-run tonight after work.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Gaming. I don't remember what the temps were running Unigine Heaven. I'll re-run tonight after work.


Ok, thanks.


----------



## Ghostdog31

Just completed my first water cooling triple loop, triple radiator build. A loop for each GPU and the CPU. I had trouble with the new Asus P8 Z77 board and I7 3770k. It's now cooling an Asus Rampage IV Extreme and the Sandybridge-E I7 3820 (Have you seen the price of the other two Sandybridge-E 's !) The H1 case was perfect for the space I keep my tower in.

I opted for EK water blocks for GPU and CPU. The Gtx 5x0 x 2 and EK HF CPU block which Igor said was not commercially available, nice plexiglas red to match the mobo!

I have yet to wire the voltage regulators on the GPU's as I have no experience there.

I will post some pics soon of the final build but there are some on my profile of the first build.

Aidan.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got near a conection long enuff for a small update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> almost done moving


What case is that on the top? (is it the phantom 410?)


----------



## solar0987

Ok so my 580 dc II and waterblock arrived today

I need some suggestions on how to add it to my loop without it looking stupid as it does now

Im mainly talking about the connection from cpu to gpu as the normal connection on a waterblock is both sides the dc II block only have the connections on the bottom!


Atm im using 2 45 fitting i had laying around and well it looks stupid imo

What i want is a fitting that is a u so the tube will still connect like a normal waterblocktowards the top of the card.
So not worried about flow as i have 2 mcp 350 pumps and a xspc dual pump top


----------



## wermad

Fittings came super fast from fronzencpu. They look a tad big but the caliper confirms ~3/8. Seems like it will be a tight squeeze. Waiting on amazon to ship my damn tube and ppcs to ship my 90° fittings (Alphacool).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Ok so my 580 dc II and waterblock arrived today
> I need some suggestions on how to add it to my loop without it looking stupid as it does now
> Im mainly talking about the connection from cpu to gpu as the normal connection on a waterblock is both sides the dc II block only have the connections on the bottom!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Atm im using 2 45 fitting i had laying around and well it looks stupid imo
> What i want is a fitting that is a u so the tube will still connect like a normal waterblocktowards the top of the card.
> So not worried about flow as i have 2 mcp 350 pumps and a xspc dual pump top


Thats EK making sure you buy their bridge and link blocks....
I am beginning to dislike you greatly Eddy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fittings came super fast from fronzencpu. They look a tad big but the caliper confirms ~3/8. Seems like it will be a tight squeeze. Waiting on amazon to ship my damn tube and ppcs to ship my 90° fittings (Alphacool).


I used Alphacool fittings on my bench build...i like them a lot,mine are black tho.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats EK making sure you buy their bridge and link blocks....
> I am beginning to dislike you greatly Eddy.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I have no clue what you are talking about i really don't like ek <-- yes i know i have all ek stuff but i don't have the $$ to buy new stuff and the 580 dc II block came on the card and was a trade i did with another member
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you pretty please be a little more specific?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Ok so my 580 dc II and waterblock arrived today
> I need some suggestions on how to add it to my loop without it looking stupid as it does now
> Im mainly talking about the connection from cpu to gpu as the normal connection on a waterblock is both sides the dc II block only have the connections on the bottom!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Atm im using 2 45 fitting i had laying around and well it looks stupid imo
> What i want is a fitting that is a u so the tube will still connect like a normal waterblocktowards the top of the card.
> So not worried about flow as i have 2 mcp 350 pumps and a xspc dual pump top


i had the same issue when i first got my block - i ended up buying an EK SLI Bridge with a blank serial link.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

i used the bitspower crystal link and it works great on my EK FC blocks.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> i had the same issue when i first got my block - i ended up buying an EK SLI Bridge with a blank serial link.


Stilll confused

I don't plan on sli i just want a bett r way to attach my cpu to gpu
Maybe thats whT your talking about a picture would do me better justice


----------



## navynuke499

here is mine, just set it up last week and i love it so far.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Stilll confused
> I don't plan on sli i just want a bett r way to attach my cpu to gpu
> Maybe thats whT your talking about a picture would do me better justice


Just attach the fitting on the top of the card. If it hits all u need is an extender fitting.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I used Alphacool fittings on my bench build...i like them a lot,mine are black tho.


The straight fittings are TFC. I picked up a couple of Alphacool 90°s since i was already buying some things from ppcs.com.

I tried one of my old 3/8x1/2 tube just on the barb portion and it was a tight squeeze. Luckily, Primochill is a bit soft so I was able to squeeze it on. I'm hoping its not too challenging with the right tube but then again some hot distilled or some gentle heat can help


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Just attach the fitting on the top of the card. If it hits all u need is an extender fitting.


Thats the problem the dc II waterblocks don't have fitting on the top of the card just the bottom


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Stilll confused
> I don't plan on sli i just want a bett r way to attach my cpu to gpu
> Maybe thats whT your talking about a picture would do me better justice


here was before i added the 2nd gpu

as you can see theres only one card - where the 2nd card is supposed to be i installed an EK blank serial link


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> here was before i added the 2nd gpu


Can you provide a link to the exact same thing you bought like all the pieces.
And once again tytytytytytytytyty:thumb:


----------



## protzman

idk if it is true i was doing some reading and some people were recommending 680 blocks for 670's.
Its this so? and if so i bought one of the new Ek 680 csq blocks, could that house and gtx670?


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> here was before i added the 2nd gpu
> as you can see theres only one card - where the 2nd card is supposed to be i installed an EK blank serial link


that tubing looks dope


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> idk if it is true i was doing some reading and some people were recommending 680 blocks for 670's.
> Its this so? and if so i bought one of the new Ek 680 csq blocks, could that house and gtx670?


They fit the 670 FTW from EVGA


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Can you provide a link to the exact same thing you bought like all the pieces.
> And once again tytytytytytytytyty:thumb:


yeah no problem







- ill just link to the products on the EK page

heres what you'll need

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-link-geforce.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-link-blank-serial.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> that tubing looks dope


thanks







my rig has changed quite a bit since then but i never changed the tubing, i might one day but if i do it'll be to copper


----------



## protzman

thanks and you mean this one right? rightchea?

and this block?
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-6x0-series/ek-fc680-gtx-nickel-csq.html

this is because the pcb length correct?


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> yeah no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - ill just link to the products on the EK page
> heres what you'll need
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-link-geforce.html
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial.html
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-link-blank-serial.html
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my rig has changed quite a bit since then but i never changed the tubing, i might one day but if i do it'll be to copper


Ty very much!

One last question what is the difference between serial and parallel?

Will it make a difference if im only using it for one block?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Ty very much!
> One last question what is the difference between serial and parallel?
> Will it make a difference if im only using it for one block?


with only 1 block it wont make a difference - but if you go with the parallel bridge you'll have to get an EK parallel blank link


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> idk if it is true i was doing some reading and some people were recommending 680 blocks for 670's.
> Its this so? and if so i bought one of the new Ek 680 csq blocks, could that house and gtx670?


Some 670s are using the same pcb as the 680 (and not the small pcb). This will allow you to run a fullcover 680 block on certain models. Research it first as there have been some full pcb 670s that are not the same as the Nvidia 680 reference design. I've seen a few blocks launch for the 670's small pcb .


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some 670s are using the same pcb as the 680 (and not the small pcb). This will allow you to run a fullcover 680 block on certain models. Research it first as there have been some full pcb 670s that are not the same as the Nvidia 680 reference design. I've seen a few blocks launch for the 670's small pcb .


thanks and yeah, i was just checking out the ek website, and they just came out with the short 670 blocks (dont think they are for sale yet tho)
i bought a 680 block a week and a half or go as a way to force me to buy a 680, and that may not be alot of money or a big deal to other people but man to me 500 bux on one thing is CRAZY!
so i was last min trying to save money and maybe get a 670







im gettin cold feet


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> thanks and yeah, i was just checking out the ek website, and they just came out with the short 670 blocks (dont think they are for sale yet tho)
> i bought a 680 block a week and a half or go as a way to force me to buy a 680, and that may not be alot of money or a big deal to other people but man to me 500 bux on one thing is CRAZY!
> so i was last min trying to save money and maybe get a 670
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im gettin cold feet


here's the HK block. Its pretty much a universal block:


----------



## GoodInk

Aqua Computer
States that it is in production with a 10 day lead time, I'm hoping that mean in 10 days they will be out.
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2896







HEATKILLER
Website says it's in stock but *probably available in week 26*
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=1515004




EK


----------



## wermad

imho, in terms of looks







:

HK>AC>EK


----------



## TiHawk560

I'm waiting for the XSPC version. I hope to god it looks like their 690 block.


----------



## USFORCES

680 4GB FTW SLI With EK universal block and bridge


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> here was before i added the 2nd gpu
> as you can see theres only one card - where the 2nd card is supposed to be i installed an EK blank serial link
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really love that tubing, man!


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Wow, I love that keyboard. Really matches your builds.


cheers jackofhearts! the keyboard took longer than expected there will be a full log up when im back online









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> What case is that on the top? (is it the phantom 410?)


yup 410 but a lot cleaner now cable sleaving done







will update and set log when back online ther is no room left in that little case now









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 680 4GB FTW SLI With EK universal block and bridge


giggitee!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Aqua Computer
> States that it is in production with a 10 day lead time, I'm hoping that mean in 10 days they will be out.
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2896
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


D'awwwwwww it's so cute









It's making me want a 670!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Ok, thanks.


Verdict is in. Hot room is hot today. Card got to 86 degrees running Unigine. Good thing I plan to watercool it I guess.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Verdict is in. Hot room is hot today. Card got to 86 degrees running Unigine. Good thing I plan to watercool it I guess.


I was planning on a CPU only loop but maybe I should do the GPU as well. BTW how is the exterior quality of the 650D? The only bad thing I really hear about it is that the paint chips easily.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Thats really odd , usually you can find distilled anywhere in 4L jugs , walmart pharmacy or any grocery store even.. Purified is better than tap water by a landslide but I wouldnt use it permanently , just use it for now and flush with distilled when you get it. For the purified to start causing trouble youd have to leave it long enough for it to react and cause bad stuff to happen , wont be overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly I live in Northern Ireland which has no Walmart.
> Here you cannot just go out and buy something you may not think something as distilled water would be a specialist item but it is.
> The worst thing is you can buy it online but the shipping here is crazy even from just mainland uk
> I'm just going to run it until I find somewhere that doesn't charge £100 to ship it
Click to expand...

Next time a Mate heads over to the UK have him pick up a gallon or two of Distilled. I'm kind of surprised you can't find it at a local Grocery though. It's a common item over here across the Pond.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> thanks and yeah, i was just checking out the ek website, and they just came out with the short 670 blocks (dont think they are for sale yet tho)
> i bought a 680 block a week and a half or go as a way to force me to buy a 680, and that may not be alot of money or a big deal to other people but man to me 500 bux on one thing is CRAZY!
> so i was last min trying to save money and maybe get a 670
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im gettin cold feet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the HK block. Its pretty much a universal block:
Click to expand...

Where can I find that Universal werm? AT? Frozen? JabTech? Sidewinder? I haven't seen it.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Next time a Mate heads over to the UK have him pick up a gallon or two of Distilled. I'm kind of surprised you can't find it at a local Grocery though. It's a common item over here across the Pond.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where can I find that Universal werm? AT? Frozen? JabTech? Sidewinder? I haven't seen it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its on their site. I'm not sure when they're launching it but they are pretty quick in replying to inquiries about their stuff. Looks like they'll also have a fullcover block for the 670.

You liking these for your 6870s?


----------



## beanscene

Heres a couple of pics of my sig rig. My first time watercooling, Still have a bit of work to do tidying things up but i'm pretty happy with it








Pretty much copied my loop layout off OCN user fuadm424's rig :S but I couldn't see any other way to fit 4x120mm rad inside such a spaceless case!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> Heres a couple of pics of my sig rig. My first time watercooling, Still have a bit of work to do tidying things up but i'm pretty happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much copied my loop layout off OCN user fuadm424's rig :S but I couldn't see any other way to fit 4x120mm rad inside such a spaceless case!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice rig! I did the same thing with an EX240 rad mounted in the center of the case in my HAF-X.


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Nice rig! I did the same thing with an EX240 rad mounted in the center of the case in my HAF-X.


Thanks heaps







Just checked out both of your sig builds, they look great! especially 'Honeycomb' wow orange/UV colour scheme goes so nicely and very unique.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> Thanks heaps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just checked out both of your sig builds, they look great! especially 'Honeycomb' wow orange/UV colour scheme goes so nicely and very unique.


Thanks man. I'll have to post some more pics of it when I get time.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> Heres a couple of pics of my sig rig. My first time watercooling, Still have a bit of work to do tidying things up but i'm pretty happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much copied my loop layout off OCN user fuadm424's rig :S but I couldn't see any other way to fit 4x120mm rad inside such a spaceless case!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can you comment on if it is possible to mount a 120/140 rad at the bottom?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread UPDATED.

Welcome to all the new watercoolers.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Next time a Mate heads over to the UK have him pick up a gallon or two of Distilled. I'm kind of surprised you can't find it at a local Grocery though. It's a common item over here across the Pond.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where can I find that Universal werm? AT? Frozen? JabTech? Sidewinder? I haven't seen it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its on their site. I'm not sure when they're launching it but they are pretty quick in replying to inquiries about their stuff. Looks like they'll also have a fullcover block for the 670.
> 
> You liking these for your 6870s?
Click to expand...

I'm definitely considering it since EK came out with those garbage bubble boy blocks an I don't want to take the chance of being afflicted with bubbles. Also Full Coverage blocks are getting scarcer and scarcer, then the whole Nickel plate fiasco. So yeah if I can't get them in Copper w/o bubbles those HK Universals are pretty tempting.









~Ceadder


----------



## colindj1120

Hey guys Im looking into building a 2900 budget watercooling build here in the next month or two and I am starting to do some research on what I should get for it. You can find the thread I started here http://www.overclock.net/t/1277046/2900-budget-wc-build/10#post_17613175 It details in the thread what I will be using it for and some of the requirements I need to meet for the build any helps appreciated thanks


----------



## superericla

Only 6 days until my birthday.


----------



## derickwm

watchu getting?


----------



## superericla

Probably money for the most part. Which I'll go out and quickly spend on upgrades... Anywho, I bought a motherboard today.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> Heres a couple of pics of my sig rig. My first time watercooling, Still have a bit of work to do tidying things up but i'm pretty happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much copied my loop layout off OCN user fuadm424's rig :S but I couldn't see any other way to fit 4x120mm rad inside such a spaceless case!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice loop! I'm interested in this kit by chance is this the same one? XSPC Raystorm EX240.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Probably money for the most part. Which I'll go out and quickly spend on upgrades... Anywho, I bought a motherboard today.


I see you got your folding postbit finally









What board did you end up going with?

@andmygun, Probably the same kit except he has two EX240 rads compared to the one in the kit.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I see you got your folding postbit finally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What board did you end up going with?


I found a good deal on an MSI X79A-GD65 (8D) so I went for it. Someone here on OCN was selling it for ~$100 under typical retail price. Probably next I'll have Dwood make me a custom test bench, I have a few interesting ideas I've been throwing his way to see what he's capable of making.


----------



## derickwm

I like the sound of that folding power









Are you keeping your phenom in your current build then?


----------



## superericla

I'm looking to sell the phenom right now, the motherboard too. I'll probably save up a bit and get a second GTX 680 for some extra folding power.


----------



## derickwm

Eh CPU folding power > GPU folding power. Even as an editor I don't encourage gpu folding when in the same rig as a folding CPU. Unless the CPU sucks.


----------



## Frost1120

New build idea let me know your opinions. Much Appreciated







http://www.overclock.net/t/1277429/new-build-idea-open-to-suggestions


----------



## Plutonium10

Quick question here. I'm planning on putting two GT AP-15 fans on a 240 rad for my upcoming build. Is it really worth getting a fan controller or should I use mobo fan headers and control the fans via the Asus Fan Xpert 2 utility? Looks like the P8Z77-V has 5 fan connectors on the mobo.


----------



## johnko1

tbh,I never liked fan xpert so I plug all my fans to 12v on psu.But I say you should use it instead of buying a fan controller for just two fans...


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quick question here. I'm planning on putting two GT AP-15 fans on a 240 rad for my upcoming build. Is it really worth getting a fan controller or should I use mobo fan headers and control the fans via the Asus Fan Xpert 2 utility? Looks like the P8Z77-V has 5 fan connectors on the mobo.


Just 2 AP-15's on a regular 240 rad, even my RX240 is actually pretty silent at full speed.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Just 2 AP-15's on a regular 240 rad, even my RX240 is actually pretty silent at full speed.


Yeah, I'll start with just 2 and then may go to push/pull depending on what temps I'm getting. Most people say the GTs are relatively quiet fans but it would still be nice to scale them back for even less noise when full speed isn't required. I'll find out when I actually hear them in person.


----------



## Fonne

Looks much better, without the big SNIPER ...


----------



## solar0987

AS promised heres pics


Still have to paint my ramblock black
And still looking for dominators!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Eh CPU folding power > GPU folding power. Even as an editor I don't encourage gpu folding when in the same rig as a folding CPU. Unless the CPU sucks.


Well, I'm pulling in around 24k PPD on the GTX 680 with <1% CPU utilization so I figure I could still add another GPU with no issues with CPU folding.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

I'm trying to plan my build but I'm stuck on choice and would like some input.

This is going to be my first wc rebuild and so i have no clue how the stuff actually looks. Blue LED's with clear tubing w/ blue dye? Or the blue tubing? Or White tubing that will pop against the blue lights?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I'm trying to plan my build but I'm stuck on choice and would like some input.
> 
> This is going to be my first wc rebuild and so i have no clue how the stuff actually looks. Blue LED's with clear tubing w/ blue dye? Or the blue tubing? Or White tubing that will pop against the blue lights?


White tubing can look amazing if you have some other white in your case, like the case itself white. If not then I would have to recommend some high-quality plasticizer free clear tubing with just distilled water and a silver coil then some nice soft blue LED's or cathodes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Haha, I was just browsing reservoir reviews on google and happened to stumble upon Realredraider.com. It seems to be populated by painfully vulgar hillbillys who tirelessly flame everything and accuse products of being "chinese s***".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The more I read, the wierder it gets.


I like it







Good ol' honest and arrogant opinions







But not all members are like that. The language is befitting an old West's saloon but it is a great forum imho where everything goes









Damn amazon hasn't shipped my tube














. I hate when they delay stuff like this! Grrrrrrrr.....that's why i try to avoid amazon, but prices are really good, free shipping, and great customer service can be hard to pass up.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> White tubing can look amazing if you have some other white in your case, like the case itself white. If not then I would have to recommend some high-quality plasticizer free clear tubing with just distilled water and a silver coil then some nice soft blue LED's or cathodes.


650D, thinking about returning and getting 800D but not sure.


----------



## evilhugbear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> AS promised heres pics
> 
> Still have to paint my ramblock black
> And still looking for dominators!


It's beautiful










How do you like that motherboard? I'm planning on getting it along with a 3570k soon...


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> White tubing can look amazing if you have some other white in your case, like the case itself white. If not then I would have to recommend some high-quality plasticizer free clear tubing with just distilled water and a silver coil then some nice soft blue LED's or cathodes.
> 
> 
> 
> 650D, thinking about returning and getting 800D but not sure.
Click to expand...

I've never had either, but the 800D is pretty big.


----------



## RKTGX95

Have anyone thought of watercooling in this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Top 480 and bottom 240/280
-


----------



## Bradleynight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Have anyone thought of watercooling in this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Top 480 and bottom 240/280
> -


All I can say is








All that for $170 looks like making that wet would not be to hard with all the space. If I was looking to do a new build this would be the case for it as it stands my Hackintosh is looking for a new home or even a complete rebuild


----------



## KaRLiToS

Can someone tell me what additive to put in my loop if I have a lot of EK nickel Product?


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Can someone tell me what additive to put in my loop if I have a lot of EK nickel Product?


If you watch Singularitycomputers on Youtube, he tells what you can use!
If I dont remember wrong, premixed was the best for nickel blocks.

He tells here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTb7PZv58c0&list=UUqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA&index=1&feature=plcp


----------



## chino1974

Guys I need alil help here.. Which water block is a better choise for a 2500k? The XSPC RayStorm or The Swiftech Apogee HD? I love the look of the RayStorm and the fact that you can change the color of the led's to suite your build. But I also want a good performer and right now my choices are one of those 2. I also can get a Danger Den DD-M6 but I don't really like it's looks to much.


----------



## derickwm

MIPS is sending me stuff for my Aldri Fornøyd build!



Sneak Peek:


























Can't wait!


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> MIPS is sending me stuff for my Aldri Fornøyd build!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneak Peek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait
> 
> 
> !


wowzerz!


----------



## simonfredette

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



MIPS is sending me stuff for my Aldri Fornøyd build!

mips_logo_01.png

Sneak Peek:

mch5000.jpg
mch4250.jpg
mch4442.jpg

Can't wait!



nothing but the best I see


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> If you watch Singularitycomputers on Youtube, he tells what you can use!
> If I dont remember wrong, premixed was the best for nickel blocks.
> He tells here:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTb7PZv58c0&list=UUqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA&index=1&feature=plcp


aNY idea what coolant he is using for that build?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> MIPS is sending me stuff for my Aldri Fornøyd build!
> 
> mips_logo_01.png
> 
> Sneak Peek:
> 
> mch5000.jpg
> mch4250.jpg
> mch4442.jpg
> 
> Can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> nothing but the best I see


The very







it'll be a fully decked out SR-2 that's for sure!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I need alil help here.. Which water block is a better choise for a 2500k? The XSPC RayStorm or The Swiftech Apogee HD? I love the look of the RayStorm and the fact that you can change the color of the led's to suite your build. But I also want a good performer and right now my choices are one of those 2. I also can get a Danger Den DD-M6 but I don't really like it's looks to much.


Either blocks performs well. If you want some looks with it, can't go wrong w/ the Raystorm. If you have any plans to go lga2011, I hear the Raystorm is not that great for this, so grab the HD.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> 
> 
> Looks much better, without the big SNIPER ...


If I coulda found this for an AM3 socket I might have gone with it instead. I love my Copper Bottom EK Supreme HF but that's an epic looking top.









~Ceadder


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I need alil help here.. Which water block is a better choise for a 2500k? The XSPC RayStorm or The Swiftech Apogee HD? I love the look of the RayStorm and the fact that you can change the color of the led's to suite your build. But I also want a good performer and right now my choices are one of those 2. I also can get a Danger Den DD-M6 but I don't really like it's looks to much.


There's a few reasons I plan on getting the Apogee HD. It has a great mounting system and I think the performance is generally a _little_ bit better than the Raystorm even on the 2500k (at the price of somewhat higher flow restriction, but that's no big deal to me).


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilhugbear*
> 
> It's beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you like that motherboard? I'm planning on getting it along with a 3570k soon...


I totally love it

Awesome board althought if they had the thunderbolt one out when i bought it id get that instead!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Have anyone thought of watercooling in this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Top 480 and bottom 240/280
> -


That is my next case!

Been looking at it since it was in cpu magazine

Im using a azza case now that i cut up


----------



## simonfredette

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Fonne View Post

400

Looks much better, without the big SNIPER ...

If I coulda found this for an AM3 socket I might have gone with it instead. I love my Copper Bottom EK Supreme HF but that's an epic looking top. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif



It kinda looks like the raystorm without the LED portion , like EK supreme and raystorm had a cpu baby


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Fonne View Post
> 
> 400
> 
> Looks much better, without the big SNIPER ...
> 
> If I coulda found this for an AM3 socket I might have gone with it instead. I love my Copper Bottom EK Supreme HF but that's an epic looking top. thumb.gif
> 
> ~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
> 
> 
> 
> It kinda looks like the raystorm without the LED portion , like EK supreme and raystorm had a cpu baby


One that speaks Japanese no less.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## golfergolfer

Hi all soon I will be able to join this club myself but in the mean time if anyone you want to come and watch me fill my Core 1000 with some water it would be awesome!!!







Linky


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> MIPS is sending me stuff for my Aldri Fornøyd build!
> 
> Sneak Peek:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait!


Oh

my

god.

If those parts perform half as good as they look, wow.


----------



## superericla

I just ordered 6 Cougar CF-V14HB fans. Should be a nice upgrade from the NZXT FN-140RB fans I've been running.

Edit: Wow, I just checked and 93 out of only 143 replies to my build log have been made by me.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Oh
> 
> my
> 
> god.
> 
> If those parts perform half as good as they look, wow.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I just ordered 6 Cougar CF-V14HB fans. Should be a nice upgrade from the NZXT FN-140RB fans I've been running.
> 
> Edit: Wow, I just checked and 93 out of only 143 replies to my build log have been made by me.


Lol I think I have almost 300 in my own







great fans btw. I have/love the 120mm version.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol I think I have almost 300 in my own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> great fans btw. I have/love the 120mm version.


Should be a nice improvement after using the lowest-end NZXT fans for a few months... By the way, it looks like Dwood has some good ideas for the test bench, he's going to start work on it next week.


----------



## derickwm

Sweet







can't wait to see what he has in store! He's had a hand in all the big builds recently, maybe I need to give him a ring


----------



## superericla

The pricing is really great for what I'm having him do with the test bench. He's actually taking my idea and is applying it to his own personal test bench as well.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The pricing is really great for what I'm having him do with the test bench. He's actually taking my idea and is applying it to his own personal test bench as well.


Awesome, a true artist


----------



## Goofy Goober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timechange01*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> Epic rig! Love it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> I hope you are originally born and rise from Smallville!


thank you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I post there,i also BOINC for RRT....they have done a great deal for the WC community.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> MIPS is sending me stuff for my Aldri Fornøyd build!
> 
> Sneak Peek:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait!


I have that mobo block...

Removed quoted swearing


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I just ordered 6 Cougar CF-V14HB fans. Should be a nice upgrade from the NZXT FN-140RB fans I've been running.
> Edit: Wow, I just checked and 93 out of only 143 replies to my build log have been made by me.


I wasn't aware of your build until now. Nice!
Mine isn't getting much love, but it's not moving very fast.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I wasn't aware of your build until now. Nice!
> Mine isn't getting much love, but it's not moving very fast.


I hear ya. I've been subbed on your build for a while, looks like you're doing some nice mods to the Switch.


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Nice loop! I'm interested in this kit by chance is this the same one? XSPC Raystorm EX240.


Yeah mate that is the exact same kit as the one i bought and for about the same price also (except i got mine from pccasegear.com in Australia). Its a good kit, and you save a lot buying this compared to getting all the parts separate. My only issues was the dual bay res is slightly too wide (vertically) to fit nicely in my Corsair 400D with the case's drive bay covers.. Im using all my 5.25" bays so its not a problem but i had to file down and bay cover for it to fit (before i bought my fan controller).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Can you comment on if it is possible to mount a 120/140 rad at the bottom?


I think a 120mm rad will fit given that you have a standard length (160mm) PSU and no fan mounted up against the HDD bay. I will take a photo of my case and give you a PM


----------



## superericla

Anyone know if 1/2 ID 5/8 OD tubing will fit on 7/16 ID 5/8 OD compression fittings? Seems like close sizes but the fitting might not "grip" the tubing enough...


----------



## Elloquin

Well you don't list a location but head on over to any old "Home Depot" Type store bring a fitting and try it on a piece of hose at the store.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Anyone know if 1/2 ID 5/8 OD tubing will fit on 7/16 ID 5/8 OD compression fittings? Seems like close sizes but the fitting might not "grip" the tubing enough...


I was always told that to use compression fittings, the tubing must match EXACTLY. If you want to use 7/16", just use 1/2" barbs.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I was always told that to use compression fittings, the tubing must match EXACTLY. If you want to use 7/16", just use 1/2" barbs.


The issue is, I have all of these 7/16ID 5/8OD compression fittings, but the tubing I'm wanting to use doesn't have that size.


----------



## gdesmo

Sorry but you must use the proper size otherwise the hose will pop off ! Locknut is designed to compress same outer diameter only, try searching a little more or sell your fittings and get proper fittings for tube. Good Luck !


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> AS promised heres pics
> 
> Still have to paint my ramblock black
> And still looking for dominators!


Nice!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

PLEASE USE SPOILERS WHEN QUOTING PICS!


----------



## simonfredette

I need to find a ram block that will fit over 6 dimms of corsair vengeance , I only have three sticks installed but the blocks I find are all for dominator ram or universal 4 dimm blocks.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I need to find a ram block that will fit over 6 dimms of corsair vengeance , I only have three sticks installed but the blocks I find are all for dominator ram or universal 4 dimm blocks.


They make blocks for dominators because they have screw holes in the top of them.

Normal ram don't so there would be no way to attach the block.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Nice!


Ty


----------



## driftingforlife

^you need to put the quote in the spoiler tags









Didn't see there was a next page


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PLEASE USE SPOILERS WHEN QUOTING PICS!


Haha he tried to, he just didn't appear to use them correctly.


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Haha he tried to, he just didn't appear to use them correctly.


I was going to point that out but no one like the grammar police.









I had my card pulled by B Negative the other day too.... I was noob. Now I know.


----------



## simonfredette

it took a while to figure it out , and then how to put a title kinda thing .. it makes sense but when youve never done it ..


Spoiler: This



is





Spoiler: How



You





Spoiler: Use



Spoilers


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Thats really odd , usually you can find distilled anywhere in 4L jugs , walmart pharmacy or any grocery store even.. Purified is better than tap water by a landslide but I wouldnt use it permanently , just use it for now and flush with distilled when you get it. For the purified to start causing trouble youd have to leave it long enough for it to react and cause bad stuff to happen , wont be overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly I live in Northern Ireland which has no Walmart.
> Here you cannot just go out and buy something you may not think something as distilled water would be a specialist item but it is.
> The worst thing is you can buy it online but the shipping here is crazy even from just mainland uk
> I'm just going to run it until I find somewhere that doesn't charge £100 to ship it
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Next time a Mate heads over to the UK have him pick up a gallon or two of Distilled. I'm kind of surprised you can't find it at a local Grocery though. It's a common item over here across the Pond.
Click to expand...

Distilled is pretty hard to get on the mainland (Northern Ireland is classed as the UK) as well, deionized water is just as good (i ran it for a little over 2 years in my last build and had no problems and I'm running it in this build. Dry ice is another thing you guys can pick up at the store where as we have to have specialist companies provide it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Distilled is pretty hard to get on the mainland (Northern Ireland is classed as the UK) as well, deionized water is just as good (i ran it for a little over 2 years in my last build and had no problems and I'm running it in this build. Dry ice is another thing you guys can pick up at the store where as we have to have specialist companies provide it.


You can get distilled from any model shop that specializes in steam trains...Hornby do it in 5 ltr bottles.
DI is just as good for what we use it for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiHawk560*
> 
> I was going to point that out but no one like the grammar police.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had my card pulled by B Negative the other day too.... I was noob. Now I know.


I dont mean to go on about it but it makes my life hard when im updating the picture spreadsheet.


----------



## TiHawk560

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont mean to go on about it but it makes my life hard when im updating the picture spreadsheet.


Hey I don't blame ya somebody's gotta do it. It keeps the place nice and clean.


----------



## simonfredette

yeah theres enough work to do , if theres something simple we can do to help out then we should do , its kinda the community part of what we do here.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Distilled is pretty hard to get on the mainland (Northern Ireland is classed as the UK) as well, deionized water is just as good (i ran it for a little over 2 years in my last build and had no problems and I'm running it in this build. Dry ice is another thing you guys can pick up at the store where as we have to have specialist companies provide it.
> 
> 
> 
> You can get distilled from any model shop that specializes in steam trains...Hornby do it in 5 ltr bottles.
> DI is just as good for what we use it for.
Click to expand...

Ah probably why I can't find it as there are no model shops around here, I checked all the supermarkets and car reapir/accessories places but they only stock DI but for £1.50 for 2.5 litres I'm not complaining.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Ah probably why I can't find it as there are no model shops around here, I checked all the supermarkets and car reapir/accessories places but they only stock DI but for £1.50 for 2.5 litres I'm not complaining.


I use the same,Halfords Special DI...£5.50 for 5 ltrs...i am being robbed it seems! XD


----------



## johnko1

I was searching for Distilled water,but I found DI on supermarket,1,20 euro for 5L No problems so far


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have that mobo block...
> 
> Removed quoted swearing


Oh! So it is. Are you happy with it?


----------



## rotary7

more pics less talking


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PLEASE USE SPOILERS WHEN QUOTING PICS!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ty
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> ^you need to put the quote in the spoiler tags
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't see there was a next page


Haha woulda quoted em all... but yeah...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> more pics less talking


My aren't we the ToPic police today.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh! So it is. Are you happy with it?


Very! Have fun with the installation tho...very fiddly!

The build goes on.....



There is a tentacle beast in my rad box!!


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very! Have fun with the installation tho...very fiddly!
> The build goes on.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a tentacle beast in my rad box!!


*Articulates a raunchy joke about purple tentacles*

*Spots the dual processors and keeps his mouth shut out of a sense of inadequacy*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> *Articulates a raunchy joke about purple tentacles*
> *Spots the dual processors and keeps his mouth shut out of a sense of inadequacy*


XD

There is a build log link in my sig,some interesting stuff being done.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


How much space is between the back of the mb tray and the end of the case? I felt there wasn't enough space back there for a full sleeved psu so I opted out of the LD-V8.








Local courier delivering my tube tomorrow! I want to get this thing fired up and back to running Surround


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How much space is between the back of the mb tray and the end of the case? I felt there wasn't enough space back there for a full sleeved psu so I opted out of the LD-V8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Local courier delivering my tube tomorrow! I want to get this thing fired up and back to running Surround


1.5CM.


----------



## NASzi

sli 680's anyone??







Will hopefully be adding these and another rad to the loop soon!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> 1.5CM.


Thanks, just curious as I felt it was a bit too small unless you fan-out the cables (sleeved).


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> sli 680's anyone??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will hopefully be adding these and another rad to the loop soon!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good, NASzi! Are you positive you can't fit your rad up top?


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Looking good, NASzi! Are you positive you can't fit your rad up top?


You mean inside of the case? I'm not sure that I can actually fit the rad and the fans inside of the case, I think they will interfere with the ram slots on my mobo, didn't test fit it because I actually like the way it looks on the outside of my case

I actually have room to mount a 120 near the hard drive cages behind my 200mm megaflow, of course i'll add a 120mm fan to it either pushing or pulling air and I can also add a 120mm where my 120 exhaust fan is right now so i'd have 1-240mm rad and 2-120mm rads.


----------



## RedBaron V2

i gave up on the cables theres soo many cables T_T so i just pushed em out of the way xD


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBaron V2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i gave up on the cables theres soo many cables T_T so i just pushed em out of the way xD


Coil up the ones you aren't using into a loop or two tuck them in next to the Motherboard side of the unit. That will camouflage the bulk of them. Once you're sure they'll fit right secure your loop(s) with zipties. That's how I secure all the unused cables in all the systems I've built. Then the ones I'm using start at their end point and using twist ties to secure them while I'm routing them. Once satisfied they're where I want them to be I lock them down with Zips replacing each twist tie as I go. An I can do better in my own system to clean up the extra cabling in the openings.

It's not that difficult. It takes a bit and if you're impatient about it, I can see how it it's a tedious chore for some. For me I get pure satisfaction from managing my cables to being an uncluttered work of art.









Other than this your system looks sharb.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ceadderman,i thought you would be the last person i would need to remind to use spoilers......


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ceadderman,i thought you would be the last person i would need to remind to use spoilers......


Nothin I could do about it mate, it was a single pic. I can fix it if you like.









Edit...







I see which one you're talkin bout. Sorry thought I did spoiler it.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

Can't believe it's so hard for you guys to get distilled over there. Then I started thinking: what in the world do people do with it? The only thing we use it for in my house is of course the water cooling in the computer(s) and my wife uses it in her steam iron. (she does quilting and stuff)

If you could find someone that has an RO system for their home water, and it has a low TDS it might qualify as a viable substitute.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Can't believe it's so hard for you guys to get distilled over there. Then I started thinking: what in the world do people do with it? The only thing we use it for in my house is of course the water cooling in the computer(s) and my wife uses it in her steam iron. (she does quilting and stuff)
> If you could find someone that has an RO system for their home water, and it has a low TDS it might qualify as a viable substitute.


I would honestly try to make my own distilled water if there are no other sources to buy from( you can look on youtube and other sources
on how to make a crudely designed simple distiller on your stove top.
I use a high tech RO system at my work for alot of temp and humidity controlled chambers
and we still get alot of mineral deposits on our equip. these deposits would eventually ruin your computer
components.
but just my 2 cents on the subject.


----------



## icemanTM

my initial build.....not finished yet... cable managment and tubings are a bit messy atm.....


----------



## bundymania




----------



## nicoliani

Are full covers still necessary for 28nm cards?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


So awesome, with that block I'd think in add a new GTX 670 to my rig with WC in the GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> Are full covers still necessary for 28nm cards?


I think that's necessary for all, not only 28nm cards.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Snip


I think you should be H2O Editor


----------



## egotrippin

Just got my GTX 690 and Koolance block last week.... still need to do sleeving. I'm going to do purple and white.

It feels kinda empty in there... I think I need another 690 =P


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I would honestly try to make my own distilled water if there are no other sources to buy from( you can look on youtube and other sources
> on how to make a crudely designed simple distiller on your stove top.
> I use a high tech RO system at my work for alot of temp and humidity controlled chambers
> and we still get alot of mineral deposits on our equip. these deposits would eventually ruin your computer
> components.
> but just my 2 cents on the subject.


Over in the UK/europe in general I believe it's easiest to find distilled water in auto parts stores. It's the same water you use to top off your batteries.


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Just got my GTX 690 and Koolance block last week.... still need to do sleeving. I'm going to do purple and white.
> It feels kinda empty in there... I think I need another 690 =P






Hey buddy what is the size of the reservoir your using in this build?


----------



## driftingforlife

^Looks like a 250mm RES.


----------



## chino1974

Guys I'll be starting a Military/Patriotic Themed build in a Switch 810 in the next few days. I already have most of the components to start. What I'm going to do is for now pull the mobo and cpu out of my Phantom 410 and use most of it's hardware. While I can manage to slowly buy all newer parts and replace the. So far I bougght a Danger Den Rad Reservoir,XSPC Raystorm intel cpu block,Swiftech 360 and 120 mm radsMonsoon Red and Blue Compression fittings and a roll of white PrimoChill 3/8i.d. x 5/8o.d. tubing for the cooling set-up. Like I said I'll be carrying over alot of the harware from my old rig in the meantime. My question for you guys is what sizr reservoir would be good for a loop with a 360,240 and 120mm rad at the moment I'm using a Jingway DP600P 600lph pump. I bought the Danger Den Res just to have something abit bigger and alil nicer looking than the Swifthech Micro-Res I have now. Any help will be greatly apreciated. I should be starting it in the next few days. I am waitting on a package from fed-ex with a white Switch 810,Sentry Mix controller and NZXT 2M red LED kit I already also have a second sentry mix I might add to it if needed.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Just got my GTX 690 and Koolance block last week.... still need to do sleeving. I'm going to do purple and white.
> It feels kinda empty in there... I think I need another 690 =P
> Snip ]


I'm loving the angle the 690 is curved


----------



## simonfredette

Spoiler: chino1974



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I'll be starting a Military/Patriotic Themed build in a Switch 810 in the next few days. I already have most of the components to start. What I'm going to do is for now pull the mobo and cpu out of my Phantom 410 and use most of it's hardware. While I can manage to slowly buy all newer parts and replace the. So far I bougght a Danger Den Rad Reservoir,XSPC Raystorm intel cpu block,Swiftech 360 and 120 mm radsMonsoon Red and Blue Compression fittings and a roll of white PrimoChill 3/8i.d. x 5/8o.d. tubing for the cooling set-up. Like I said I'll be carrying over alot of the harware from my old rig in the meantime. My question for you guys is what sizr reservoir would be good for a loop with a 360,240 and 120mm rad at the moment I'm using a Jingway DP600P 600lph pump. I bought the Danger Den Res just to have something abit bigger and alil nicer looking than the Swifthech Micro-Res I have now. Any help will be greatly apreciated. I should be starting it in the next few days. I am waitting on a package from fed-ex with a white Switch 810,Sentry Mix controller and NZXT 2M red LED kit I already also have a second sentry mix I might add to it if needed.






I have a 360 and a 240 in my switch and I run that with a D5 pump through a dual bay res , I dont want to say size doesnt matter but I think its mostly a minimum you have to look at , since your pump moves quite a bit of water I wouldnt go under something like a 150 just to make sure it can keep up.. That being said if your system is well bled then theres no chance of cavitating the pump. Are you planning on going bay, tube or a multi option ?


----------



## black snow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Where can you get these? My GTX 670s are arriving tomorrow and I still haven't got an idea where to find these GPU blocks.

Been reading posts in these ares for information since this will be my first WC rig...


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *black snow*
> 
> Where can you get these? My GTX 670s are arriving tomorrow and I still haven't got an idea where to find these GPU blocks.
> Been reading posts in these ares for information since this will be my first WC rig...


This is the only place where I can find it: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15525


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *black snow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where can you get these? My GTX 670s are arriving tomorrow and I still haven't got an idea where to find these GPU blocks.
> 
> Been reading posts in these ares for information since this will be my first WC rig...
Click to expand...

You can't yet







mine comes in today


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey buddy what is the size of the reservoir your using in this build?


Good question. It came with the murdermod TJ07 case so I never measured it before now. It's diameter is 60mm and it's length is about 200-210 mm which puts it's volume at around 390-410 ml.


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> I'm loving the angle the 690 is curved


Huh?


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Huh?


You GPU is bent down.
I'd consider a support beam.
Cause of how much is costs


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> You GPU is bent down.
> I'd consider a support beam.
> Cause of how much is costs


Yeah I've thought about that. What you're seeing is part camera angle and part deformation from it bending under it's own weight. I'm about to change the tubing out for clear so the white fluid will show through and match the the reservoir. When I do that I'll include some extra slack in both pieces so it will put a lot of extra pressure upward against the card. Also when I sleeve the pcie cables I might try to use those for extra support by having them come down from the top somehow. I'm still figuring this stuff all out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Yeah I've thought about that. What you're seeing is part camera angle and part deformation from it bending under it's own weight. I'm about to change the tubing out for clear so the white fluid will show through and match the the reservoir. When I do that I'll include some extra slack in both pieces so it will put a lot of extra pressure upward against the card. Also when I sleeve the pcie cables I might try to use those for extra support by having them come down from the top somehow. I'm still figuring this stuff all out.


Scythe do a ninja wire which is great for holding GPU's up.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Scythe do a ninja wire which is great for holding GPU's up.


I did a home brew one for my GTX 480


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Yeah I've thought about that. What you're seeing is part camera angle and part deformation from it bending under it's own weight. I'm about to change the tubing out for clear so the white fluid will show through and match the the reservoir. When I do that I'll include some extra slack in both pieces so it will put a lot of extra pressure upward against the card. Also when I sleeve the pcie cables I might try to use those for extra support by having them come down from the top somehow. I'm still figuring this stuff all out.


Or.... Get Dwood to make you a snazzy backplate. In white.


----------



## Drin-King757

I might have to upgrade my 570's so I can get that block!


----------



## derickwm

Diggin the aqua computer 670 block myself.


----------



## wermad

Got the tube in today but its super tight, I could barely close the cap on the fitting. I busted my digital caliper and it shows the barb portion is 12.4mm and the id of the cap is 16.11mm. The bottom barb portion is is a tad bigger than 10mm. To me, these compression fittings are 1/2x5/8. Their packaging didn't have any identifiers and frozencpu doesn't have TFC fittings in 1/2x5/8. I'm not sure if I should return these or just use them and apply some heat to the tube to soften it up. I recall my old TFC 1/2x3/4 where never a pita to install.

edit: did a bit more calculations and it looks more like a 7/16x5/8 but again, FCPU doesn't have these from TFC.

double edit: here's the TFC next to a 3/8 barb:


----------



## chino1974

Guys I know this is not the thread fo this but I have something going on and seeing that I spend so much time on here I figured I'd let alil steam off and ask for alil help. As most of you know my mom and both in-laws have been battling cancer all at the same time. Well my mother in-law which I love like my own mom was sent back to the hospital a few days ago with reperatory failure. Anyways we got the call earlier this morning from the drs asking for all her children to meet at the hospital for them to talk. My wife just called me alil while ago cause I have to stay home and watch the kids. She called to let me know the cancer has spread to her blood and I guess it's all over the place now. It started of in her breast and went to her lungs then liver now it's everywhere. I guess they say it's a matter of days if she's lucky. I'm just saying this because like I said before I spend alot of time here and I know there are alot of good people here. I'm just asking for everyone's prayers for her. Her name is Griselda Costa I believe in a higher power and have heard of and seen some miraculous things happen before. Maybe with alil help something can happen even if it's just that she passes on peacefully. Thanks Guys


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I have a 360 and a 240 in my switch and I run that with a D5 pump through a dual bay res , I dont want to say size doesnt matter but I think its mostly a minimum you have to look at , since your pump moves quite a bit of water I wouldnt go under something like a 150 just to make sure it can keep up.. That being said if your system is well bled then theres no chance of cavitating the pump. Are you planning on going bay, tube or a multi option ?


I have a Danger Den Rad Reservoir right not for it which is a tube reservoir. I looked at the paper it brings in the package with it and it gives the measurements as 7 inches long and 2 inch o.d. round. I googled what that was in mm and it was something like 177.8mm . I wanted to go with the tube reservoir for this build but at the moment this was the only one I could get.


----------



## wermad

^^^You be better off posting in the off-topic section. Good luck









I just got the Alphacool 90°s and the barb is a bit longer than the TFC, but the diameter is slightly smaller. I'm getting 11.9mm on the caliper so I guess its should be ok. I'll soften up the tube first with the heat gun (gently







).

(alphacool on the left, tfc on the right):


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I know this is not the thread fo this but I have something going on and seeing that I spend so much time on here I figured I'd let alil steam off and ask for alil help. As most of you know my mom and both in-laws have been battling cancer all at the same time. Well my mother in-law which I love like my own mom was sent back to the hospital a few days ago with reperatory failure. Anyways we got the call earlier this morning from the drs asking for all her children to meet at the hospital for them to talk. My wife just called me alil while ago cause I have to stay home and watch the kids. She called to let me know the cancer has spread to her blood and I guess it's all over the place now. It started of in her breast and went to her lungs then liver now it's everywhere. I guess they say it's a matter of days if she's lucky. I'm just saying this because like I said before I spend alot of time here and I know there are alot of good people here. I'm just asking for everyone's prayers for her. Her name is Griselda Costa I believe in a higher power and have heard of and seen some miraculous things happen before. Maybe with alil help something can happen even if it's just that she passes on peacefully. Thanks Guys


You definitely have my prayers man! Good luck and stay strong!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I know this is not the thread fo this but I have something going on and seeing that I spend so much time on here I figured I'd let alil steam off and ask for alil help. As most of you know my mom and both in-laws have been battling cancer all at the same time. Well my mother in-law which I love like my own mom was sent back to the hospital a few days ago with reperatory failure. Anyways we got the call earlier this morning from the drs asking for all her children to meet at the hospital for them to talk. My wife just called me alil while ago cause I have to stay home and watch the kids. She called to let me know the cancer has spread to her blood and I guess it's all over the place now. It started of in her breast and went to her lungs then liver now it's everywhere. I guess they say it's a matter of days if she's lucky. I'm just saying this because like I said before I spend alot of time here and I know there are alot of good people here. I'm just asking for everyone's prayers for her. Her name is Griselda Costa I believe in a higher power and have heard of and seen some miraculous things happen before. Maybe with alil help something can happen even if it's just that she passes on peacefully. Thanks Guys


Our thoughts are with you at this difficult time.
Stay Strong
From the Harper Family.


----------



## wermad

After struggling for several minutes just to close one fitting, I'm throwing in the towel and getting rid of them. I'm going with Alphacool since the 90°s I got are very easy to install.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I know this is not the thread fo this but I have something going on and seeing that I spend so much time on here I figured I'd let alil steam off and ask for alil help. As most of you know my mom and both in-laws have been battling cancer all at the same time. Well my mother in-law which I love like my own mom was sent back to the hospital a few days ago with reperatory failure. Anyways we got the call earlier this morning from the drs asking for all her children to meet at the hospital for them to talk. My wife just called me alil while ago cause I have to stay home and watch the kids. She called to let me know the cancer has spread to her blood and I guess it's all over the place now. It started of in her breast and went to her lungs then liver now it's everywhere. I guess they say it's a matter of days if she's lucky. I'm just saying this because like I said before I spend alot of time here and I know there are alot of good people here. I'm just asking for everyone's prayers for her. Her name is Griselda Costa I believe in a higher power and have heard of and seen some miraculous things happen before. Maybe with alil help something can happen even if it's just that she passes on peacefully. Thanks Guys


Thoughts are with you mate, I have lost my Mother in-law to cancer and my father passed away earlier this year, tough times, stay strong.


----------



## chino1974

Thanks Alot Guys. I thought I should've posted it maybe on the off topic threads but I'm always on these so I basically know who's on this thread most of the time didn't figure anyone would mind.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I know this is not the thread fo this but I have something going on and seeing that I spend so much time on here I figured I'd let alil steam off and ask for alil help. As most of you know my mom and both in-laws have been battling cancer all at the same time. Well my mother in-law which I love like my own mom was sent back to the hospital a few days ago with reperatory failure. Anyways we got the call earlier this morning from the drs asking for all her children to meet at the hospital for them to talk. My wife just called me alil while ago cause I have to stay home and watch the kids. She called to let me know the cancer has spread to her blood and I guess it's all over the place now. It started of in her breast and went to her lungs then liver now it's everywhere. I guess they say it's a matter of days if she's lucky. I'm just saying this because like I said before I spend alot of time here and I know there are alot of good people here. I'm just asking for everyone's prayers for her. Her name is Griselda Costa I believe in a higher power and have heard of and seen some miraculous things happen before. Maybe with alil help something can happen even if it's just that she passes on peacefully. Thanks Guys





i'll keep her and your family in my prayers tonight, keep the faith and be strong


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Can't believe it's so hard for you guys to get distilled over there. Then I started thinking: what in the world do people do with it? The only thing we use it for in my house is of course the water cooling in the computer(s) and my wife uses it in her steam iron. (she does quilting and stuff)
> 
> If you could find someone that has an RO system for their home water, and it has a low TDS it might qualify as a viable substitute.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I would honestly try to make my own distilled water if there are no other sources to buy from( you can look on youtube and other sources
> on how to make a crudely designed simple distiller on your stove top.
> I use a high tech RO system at my work for alot of temp and humidity controlled chambers
> and we still get alot of mineral deposits on our equip. these deposits would eventually ruin your computer
> components.
> but just my 2 cents on the subject.
> 
> 
> 
> Over in the UK/europe in general I believe it's easiest to find distilled water in auto parts stores. *It's the same water you use to top off your batteries.*
Click to expand...

This.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> After struggling for several minutes just to close one fitting, I'm throwing in the towel and getting rid of them. I'm going with Alphacool since the 90°s I got are very easy to install.


EK 90's are essentially the same as the BitsPower 90's and they're hella cheap at PPCs' you might give those a go. I know you're not a fan of EK but they do have good fittings. Either that or just replace all your fittings with Monsoons.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I know this is not the thread fo this but I have something going on and seeing that I spend so much time on here I figured I'd let alil steam off and ask for alil help. As most of you know my mom and both in-laws have been battling cancer all at the same time. Well my mother in-law which I love like my own mom was sent back to the hospital a few days ago with reperatory failure. Anyways we got the call earlier this morning from the drs asking for all her children to meet at the hospital for them to talk. My wife just called me alil while ago cause I have to stay home and watch the kids. She called to let me know the cancer has spread to her blood and I guess it's all over the place now. It started of in her breast and went to her lungs then liver now it's everywhere. I guess they say it's a matter of days if she's lucky. I'm just saying this because like I said before I spend alot of time here and I know there are alot of good people here. I'm just asking for everyone's prayers for her. Her name is Griselda Costa I believe in a higher power and have heard of and seen some miraculous things happen before. Maybe with alil help something can happen even if it's just that she passes on peacefully. Thanks Guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll keep her and your family in my prayers tonight, keep the faith and be strong
Click to expand...

Ditto! Every prayer counts imho. I hope they're all around for many years. But also remember so long as you keep them in your heart they are never truly gone. Keep up the good fight.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK 90's are essentially the same as the BitsPower 90's and they're hella cheap at PPCs' you might give those a go. I know you're not a fan of EK but they do have good fittings. Either that or just replace all your fittings with Monsoons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I just pulled the trigger on 14 Alphacool straight 10/16mm and two more 90°s (compression angled 90°s). It was more expensive but I like the quality of the Alphacool fittings I already have and the tube goes on there effortlessly. Ordered them from ppcs since they had the best price.

I have the TFCs up for sale if anyone is interested.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on 14 Alphacool straight 10/16mm and two more 90°s (compression angled 90°s). It was more expensive but I like the quality of the Alphacool fittings I already have and the tube goes on there effortlessly. Ordered them from ppcs since they had the best price.
> I have the TFCs up for sale if anyone is interested.


They are good,the only gripe I have is that the comps are matt black and the angles are gloss black...strange but true.


----------



## derickwm

Lol wermad do I dare ask to see a picture of your collection of fittings?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol wermad do I dare ask to see a picture of your collection of fittings?


lol, I sold the 3/8x1/2 fairly quick on ebay. I only have odd-ball fittings like extensions, sli fittings, plugs, etc. I try not to accumulate compression fittings of different sizes. Though, the TFCs were a pain in the ass. I was worried that I was going to damage a component by testing this. I have a feeling these were meant for 7/16x5/8 or 3/8x7/16. Its super tight so I'm not fighting them to risk any damage to my components.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are good,the only gripe I have is that the comps are matt black and the angles are gloss black...strange but true.


I went with silver, like always. I have yet to plunge into black fittings.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hahaha you don't know what you're missing werm.


















Kina glad I didn't go with this setup for my FC to CPU connection...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















That tubing would have been MUCH too short to bridge the gap. Probably by about 20mm or so, and any longer would probably have kinked at that angle.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

I found a couple plugs on dazmode that are acrylic plugs with a little hole for a 5mm LED , it says its mostly to light up acrylic top blocks but I was wondering if I use it on my water block as the plug on the opposite side of the hose leading into or out of the block, If I put an UV LED in there if it will be enough to light into the hose. I was looking at it as an alternative to the monsoon fitting that fits an LED ( I havnt actually found these monsoons for sale anywhere anyways) ..

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_72&products_id=1365

What do you think ? Ok really crude drawing ( pcmoddermikes PC , but those are my graphic cards now so .. )


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I found a couple plugs on dazmode that are acrylic plugs with a little hole for a 5mm LED , it says its mostly to light up acrylic top blocks but I was wondering if I use it on my water block as the plug on the opposite side of the hose leading into or out of the block, If I put an UV LED in there if it will be enough to light into the hose. I was looking at it as an alternative to the monsoon fitting that fits an LED ( I havnt actually found these monsoons for sale anywhere anyways) ..
> 
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_72&products_id=1365
> 
> What do you think ? Ok really crude drawing ( pcmoddermikes PC , but those are my graphic cards now so .. )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah I'm not sure they will work for what you're wanting without a spacer as the threads may be too long and impede or cut off the flow altogether.









I'd get some 10mm adapters to make certain that they don't create restriction points in your loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I'm not sure they will work for what you're wanting without a spacer as the threads may be too long and impede or cut off the flow altogether.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd get some 10mm adapters to make certain that they don't create restriction points in your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


well I think the threads are a standard plug , just replacing the plug that comes with the block , I just dont know if the LED is going to be strong enough to go through the acrylic plug and right across into the tubing with enough juice left to make it glow.. Also on another note I did buy 2 sleeved 5 mm UV LEDs for my raystorm block , im looking forward to seeing what kind of effect it has.


----------



## Ganf

Not all LED's are created equal. If those UV LED's don't cut it, look for some of the high output ones.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Not all LED's are created equal. If those UV LED's don't cut it, look for some of the high output ones.


This. I would've said High Intensity though.









Also if you don't have adapters get em anyway. Then you're prepared if the threads are too deep. I know pics are not always what the item seems but every one of those that I have seen look like they have a deepter than standard thread.









If nothing else you have a couple adapters for future upgrades or use.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah thats the plan , I have a white Switch 810 , Blue UV tubing , A gigabyte UD3R board ( blue heatsinks) , blue vengeance ram .. you get where im going , right now theres a few blue led fans and the blue LEDs on the raystorm , now I need the find the best way to get the UV to pop , I bought a pair of cathodes but I think the inverter is junk ,on of them is pretty bright and the other one sucks .


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I would honestly try to make my own distilled water if there are no other sources to buy from( you can look on youtube and other sources
> on how to make a crudely designed simple distiller on your stove top.
> I use a high tech RO system at my work for alot of temp and humidity controlled chambers
> and we still get alot of mineral deposits on our equip. these deposits would eventually ruin your computer
> components.
> but just my 2 cents on the subject.


What about the quality of the water? As part of my job I often ran a 1.5 million dollar RO system. I can safely state the TDS of the water coming out was consistently 0-5 and the Alkalinity <5. This is the same water that goes into Dasani world wide, although minerals are added later in the process in a known measured amount. That is done so no matter where it's made the quality is consistent.
But it's true not all RO systems are as good, why I said, or think I did, if the TDS was low it would probably be fine.


----------



## wermad

Well, this is lovely:



Now I'm convinced this is not the right size. The TFC was actually cutting through the tube. The Alphacool fitting didn't leave a mark


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Guys I know this is not the thread fo this but I have something going on and seeing that I spend so much time on here I figured I'd let alil steam off and ask for alil help. As most of you know my mom and both in-laws have been battling cancer all at the same time. Well my mother in-law which I love like my own mom was sent back to the hospital a few days ago with reperatory failure. Anyways we got the call earlier this morning from the drs asking for all her children to meet at the hospital for them to talk. My wife just called me alil while ago cause I have to stay home and watch the kids. She called to let me know the cancer has spread to her blood and I guess it's all over the place now. It started of in her breast and went to her lungs then liver now it's everywhere. I guess they say it's a matter of days if she's lucky. I'm just saying this because like I said before I spend alot of time here and I know there are alot of good people here. I'm just asking for everyone's prayers for her. Her name is Griselda Costa I believe in a higher power and have heard of and seen some miraculous things happen before. Maybe with alil help something can happen even if it's just that she passes on peacefully.
> 
> 
> Thanks Guys


My thoughts and prayer go out to you and your family.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Looking for a waterblock for my GTX670 ( EVGA FTW.) SO really Im looking for a 680 block. Any recomendations? Those XSPC blocks look okay at best, but do they perform well? WIth al the uproar about the EK products i really dont want to even go there. Unless i can find the Plexi Copper version...Thoughts?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Probably not going to find any non-CSQ blocks anymore unless you get with lucky with Ebay or something like that...


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Probably not going to find any non-CSQ blocks anymore unless you get with lucky with Ebay or something like that...


Those are even more ugly than the XSPC ones! The bubbles must have magically cured the flaking?


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

hey guys heres my new work in progress. all i need to do is get a gpu block and swap out the 7870 for a gtx670 and im finished.


----------



## Dredknot

.


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELEKTRIK_BLUE*
> 
> hey guys heres my new work in progress. all i need to do is get a gpu block and swap out the 7870 for a gtx670 and im finished.


strange tubing but i like it +1!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Looking for a waterblock for my GTX670 ( EVGA FTW.) SO really Im looking for a 680 block. Any recomendations? Those XSPC blocks look okay at best, but do they perform well? WIth al the uproar about the EK products i really dont want to even go there. Unless i can find the Plexi Copper version...Thoughts?


Here's a good review from Bundy. It's for 7970 blocks but I imagine the GTX 680 would be a similar story.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup

My personal choice would be the Heatkiller.


----------



## losttsol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELEKTRIK_BLUE*
> 
> hey guys heres my new work in progress. all i need to do is get a gpu block and swap out the 7870 for a gtx670 and im finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Never been a big fan of black tubing, but it looks good with the white accents. Maybe throw a little more white in there somewhere.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

White compression fittings would look good...


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

my plan is to add some white pcie extensions and resleeve alot of the fans and cables. the tubing is 3/8in tygon industrial grade norprene tubing it can be purchased through frozen cpu. i got 13ft of it for 24 bucks. i still have yet to use it all and ive done 3 builds since i bought it. i still have around 4 feet left. the reason i went with black tubing is for a more industrial look. i personally am not a fan of flashy colored tubing and lights. so far though shes running good,cramped but running better than i expected. im currently trying to get away from monolithic cases and try my hands at smaller cases for a while.

does anyone make white compression fittings? i have only seen chrome black and black nickle.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELEKTRIK_BLUE*
> 
> does anyone make white compression fittings? i have only seen chrome black and black nickle.


Pretty sure Monsoon fittings are available in white, among others.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Pretty sure Monsoon fittings are available in white, among others.


i will have to check them out when i order some more parts in the next week or two. also i just cut out the top mesh panel in the arc mini to boost airflow. so far it doesn't seem to have made a difference.


----------



## n0n44m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Looking for a waterblock for my GTX670 ( EVGA FTW.) SO really Im looking for a 680 block. Any recomendations? Those XSPC blocks look okay at best, but do they perform well? WIth al the uproar about the EK products i really dont want to even go there. Unless i can find the Plexi Copper version...Thoughts?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Here's a good review from Bundy. It's for 7970 blocks but I imagine the GTX 680 would be a similar story.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup
> My personal choice would be the Heatkiller.


just installed these babies on my Gigabyte GTX670 (680 pcb)



^^


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELEKTRIK_BLUE*
> 
> hey guys heres my new work in progress. all i need to do is get a gpu block and swap out the 7870 for a gtx670 and im finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude, the BLK Tubing is SUPER-SEXY!! I really want one when saw these.

Where the blk tubing I can purchase?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please use spoilers when quoting pics.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Dude, the BLK Tubing is SUPER-SEXY!! I really want one when saw these.
> Where the blk tubing I can purchase?


Norprene


----------



## Penryn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Please use spoilers when quoting pics.


Fixt 8].


----------



## skitzab1

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n0n44m*
> 
> just installed these babies on my Gigabyte GTX670 (680 pcb)
> 
> ^^





now ther nice


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> now ther nice


But they are Gigadoodle blue PCB's? Nicer in black...unless you have a blue build going.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Please use spoilers when quoting pics.


Wait... so all pics? If it's a multiple pic quote I don't see why one pic can't be left open so long as there aren't a run on of the same pic being quoted as well as the single pic quote not being overworked like a two bit prostitute.

But if it's gonna be spoiler all why not just ask people not to quote pics. Not trying to let my OCD get the best of me Mate just an observation.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wait... so all pics? If it's a multiple pic quote I don't see why one pic can't be left open so long as there aren't a run on of the same pic being quoted as well as the single pic quote not being overworked like a two bit prostitute.
> But if it's gonna be spoiler all why not just ask people not to quote pics. Not trying to let my OCD get the best of me Mate just an observation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


One pic can be left open,would be difficult for the quoted guy to know he being quoted if all pics were spoilered,GAMERIG had 3 pics quoted tho.

Maybe i should get a poll up on it....


----------



## n0n44m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But they are Gigadoodle blue PCB's? Nicer in black...unless you have a blue build going.


plenty of blue in my new build









besides they also have chromed backplates available if you want to cover up the PCB


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n0n44m*
> 
> plenty of blue in my new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> besides they also have chromed backplates available if you want to cover up the PCB


2nd


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wait... so all pics? If it's a multiple pic quote I don't see why one pic can't be left open so long as there aren't a run on of the same pic being quoted as well as the single pic quote not being overworked like a two bit prostitute.
> But if it's gonna be spoiler all why not just ask people not to quote pics. Not trying to let my OCD get the best of me Mate just an observation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree. We should be able to quote just ONE picture if we want so that people can see what we're talking about without having to click a spoiler link every time. Multiple pics of course should be spoilered...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Please use spoilers when quoting pics.


you gotta stop harping on ppl about that - especially when its only a couple pics...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> you gotta stop harping on ppl about that - especially when its only 1 pic...


It wasnt one pic,where did you get that from?
I 'harp' on as its annoying when updating the pic sheet,its a 'rule' of this thread which benefits all


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Please use spoilers when quoting pics.
> 
> 
> 
> you gotta stop harping on ppl about that - especially when its only a couple pics...
Click to expand...

Like B said it's a rule of this thread that has been around for a long time, and before we had spoilers it was one pic per quote.


----------



## kaiqi07

My Current Rig which was completed just two weeks ago. Link of my Build Log of Project Rampage

*Casing Front View*



*Casing Side View*



*Casing Back View*



*Casing 5.25 Inch Bays*



*Koolance RP450 X2*

Replace my NZXT LX Fan Controller with this sexy little beast



*Custom made Acrylic to hide the 5.25 Bays and hold a 140mm fan*



*24pin ATX Sleeved Cables*



*PSU Chamber and Mobo Chamber*

Had custom made a pillar using a 5.25 cover as support



*EK XT240 Radiator Mounted*



*EK XTX 360 Radiator Mounted*


----------



## kaiqi07

Took the photos of the rig during the weekend.

*EK Supreme HF Nickel Plexi*


*EK Supreme HF Nickel Plexi with dual Bitspower Universal Galaxy 4DIMM Blocks*

*
EK 90D Extenders, Koolance dual VID Connector, Bitspower Compression Fittings Used on the mobo*


*XFX 7970 Crossfire using parallel flow*


*Phobya 50mm Extender used to extend the fittings pipeline to EK XTX360 Rad*

*
Koolance Rampage 4 Extreme Motherboard Nickel Blocks MB-ASC4E*

*
Double ASUS ROG Crossfire Bridge*

*
XFX7970 Crossfire with EK FC7970 Nickel Plexi with EK FC7970 Backplate*


*ASUS Rampage 4 Extreme with all blocks and EK Multioption X2 250 Reservoir*


----------



## kaiqi07

*MCP655 with Bitspower V2 Top Plexi and Bitspower Mod Kit Matt Black*


*Sleeved PCIe Cables for the dual GPUs*

*
Koolance RP450X2 with red coolant filled*

*
Bitspower Rotary T Joint with Drain Pipe*


*Bottom View of the Whole Watercooling Setup*


----------



## simonfredette

Looks great man , never really understood how running a pair of graphics cards like that works , ill have to look into it for sure , looks great !


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Looks great man , never really understood how running a pair of graphics cards like that works , ill have to look into it for sure , looks great !


Its a parallel setup,its promotes flow.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

What are you using on the cables to keep them so orderly?


----------



## skitzab1

cable ties !!


----------



## AMC

Absolutely amazing kaiqi07


----------



## johnko1

Is swiftech 355 pump good?Which one had problems in the past?


----------



## kaiqi07

Thanks guys for the compliment.

Yes I used ultra thin cable ties to manage them together. Love neat stuffs. I am using dual MCP655. they are better than 355. Heard lots of heat issues with 355s.

yes, I using parallel flow for my GPU crossfire setup. Less flow but the temps for both cards difference are -+ 1 degrees Celsius which I can compensate the lower flow rate since I am running dual 655.

But i had encountered two leaks which highly suspect is due to pressure (might be water or pump pressure) that might caused my rotaries to leak.

Currently still under observation for my rig as I lowered both pumps from Speed 5 to Speed 4.

So far close to a week without leaks.


----------



## kaiqi07

BTW sorry for the high res pics.


----------



## RKTGX95

Hey guys and gals, i have no real appropriate place to ask this so ill ask here:

1) Is it possible to mount the Phobya 200 rad with a 200 fan inside the Antec Eleven Hundred?
2) Is it possible to mount the Phobya 400 rad or 200 rad in the roof of the Thermaltake Chaser MK-I ?
3) Is it possible to mount the Phobya 400 rad in the roof of the CoolerMaster Haf X ?

As usual, help is very appreciated


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> BTW sorry for the high res pics.


Moar hi-res pics pls.


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> BTW sorry for the high res pics.


They're a good resolution, it looks fine on a normal 1080P monitor. It's alot better then the very small pictures you posted before.


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> They're a good resolution, it looks fine on a normal 1080P monitor. It's alot better then the very small pictures you posted before.


I do have high res pics for the rest just that some bros here are using iphone to check the forum so I think my high res pic will kill their phone LOL


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> My Current Rig which was completed just two weeks ago. Link of my Build Log of Project Rampage
> *Casing Front View*
> 
> *Casing Side View*
> 
> *Casing Back View*
> 
> *Casing 5.25 Inch Bays*
> 
> *Koolance RP450 X2*
> 
> Replace my NZXT LX Fan Controller with this sexy little beast
> 
> *Custom made Acrylic to hide the 5.25 Bays and hold a 140mm fan*
> 
> *24pin ATX Sleeved Cables*
> 
> 
> *PSU Chamber and Mobo Chamber*
> Had custom made a pillar using a 5.25 cover as support
> 
> *EK XT240 Radiator Mounted*
> 
> *EK XTX 360 Radiator Mounted*






All I can say is BEAUTIFUL!!!


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> All I can say is BEAUTIFUL!!!


Thank u.


----------



## armartins

kaiqi07 best looking RIVE full watercooled I've seen so far, I'd rather use black tubing instead (personal preference). But how's your flow with this bunch of 90º?


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> *MCP655 with Bitspower V2 Top Plexi and Bitspower Mod Kit Matt Black*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Chrome than most Show Cars within.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sleeved PCIe Cables for the dual GPUs*
> 
> *
> Koolance RP450X2 with red coolant filled*
> 
> *
> Bitspower Rotary T Joint with Drain Pipe*
> 
> *Bottom View of the Whole Watercooling Setup*


I think you spent more on fittings than I did on my entire rig.... I hate you. I'm gonna go back to Glitzing mine up with some latex paint now.


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> I think you spent more on fittings than I did on my entire rig.... I hate you. I'm gonna go back to Glitzing mine up with some latex paint now.


Yup, thats the plan actually. Wanna have that industrial/ pipeline feel for this built.

in total I had prepared close to 140 - 160 different fittings which I had around 20 unused ones. I had a few more coming soon from my recent performance pc purchases.


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armartins*
> 
> kaiqi07 best looking RIVE full watercooled I've seen so far, I'd rather use black tubing instead (personal preference). But how's your flow with this bunch of 90º?


In terms for 90D and 45D i had used around 34 - 37 of them.

Flow wise, its fine as I am running dual 655 at 4 speed. and temps wise. My GPUs idle at 35 - 40 degree cel and 44 - 50 at load.

So i assume they are doing pretty fine with 6 blocks and 2 radiators.

Reason for using orange tubing is to create contrast within the rig. If I were to use black tubing the pipeline of fittings wont be able to stand out. I actually had bought black tubing as well and tested before choosing orange tubing for my built.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Yup, thats the plan actually. Wanna have that industrial/ pipeline feel for this built.
> in total I had prepared close to 140 - 160 different fittings which I had around 20 unused ones. I had a few more coming soon from my recent performance pc purchases.


I think I would've just run some chrome plated copper lines and have been done with it.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> My Current Rig which was completed just two weeks ago. Link of my Build Log of Project Rampage
> 
> *24pin ATX Sleeved Cables*


Where do you get those thing to manage the cables straight like this. I really like it + 1 for your rig and your modded 800D


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Where do you get those thing to manage the cables straight like this. I really like it + 1 for your rig and your modded 800D


Used ultra thin cable ties. Thanks for the like.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Where do you get those thing to manage the cables straight like this. I really like it + 1 for your rig and your modded 800D


And just for future reference, if you poke around some custom auto parts shops some of them will have some pretty spiffy cable management clips. I imagine there would be some the correct size for a 24 wire setup.


----------



## Ceadderman

See now if one were the complaining sort, 3 straight posts with massive bitrate concerns would be the thing that sets em off. This is what a spoiler tag was meant for. That way nobody can quote something that ain't there. If you wish to curb multi pic quotes the OP of the pics should be asked to spoiler them B.







lulz

Outstanding build kaiqi07.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ganf

I now have Daytime Cable TV on OCN.... Yay....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> XCUSE ME? what h*ll are you talking about? don't use my sn as target pawn by your post to figner-point @ me.
> *STRAIGHT FACTS*: you don't know how to be performance & coping with others, period! no wonder people didnt congrats and cheers you after Kevin BMX handed this thread over to you.


Im not picking on you,you had 3 pics quoted,the mod that put the spoiler there for you felt the same and thats why HE MODDED IT! This is after a reminder about it on nearly every page leading up to it,1 pic and the rest should be put under spoiler tags,its not hard and has been this way on this thread since day 1
Now grow up...im not even rising to your childish rant.


----------



## RKTGX95

Can someone answer me if it is possible to mount a 200 rad in the top of the antec 1100 ?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

One down, one more to go!











I'll be posting my official Build Log later tonight if anybody is interested!


----------



## Ceadderman

Very cool Majin. I need to get blox for my Cards. Maybe soon. Just need to sell some stuff first.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> XCUSE ME? what h*ll are you talking about? don't use my sn as target pawn by your post to figner-point @ me.
> *STRAIGHT FACTS*: you don't know how to be performance & coping with others, period! no wonder people didnt congrats and cheers you after Kevin BMX handed this thread over to you.


Dude, chill' ax. We've been asking everyone to use the spoilers well before B negative took over. One pic is fine if you have a specific qs about the build, but as courtesy to all, please use spoilers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Can someone answer me if it is possible to mount a 200 rad in the top of the antec 1100 ?


Your case supports a 200mm fan on top. As long as you have a bit of space from the sides (~10mm) it should fit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very cool Majin. I need to get blox for my Cards. Maybe soon. Just need to sell some stuff first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Did you manage to get ref cards?
I couldnt find any for love nor money....i ended up with EK bridge blocks for mine.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Your case supports a 200mm fan on top. As long as you have a bit of space from the sides (~10mm) it should fit.


im asking this because i am planing my build (i.e. i have nothing at hand) and if someone has the mentioned case or any experience with it or anything that could help it will be very helpful, especially if he can tell if there is enough space for the rad with a fan.


----------



## Philliesfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Can't believe it's so hard for you guys to get distilled over there. Then I started thinking: what in the world do people do with it? The only thing we use it for in my house is of course the water cooling in the computer(s) and my wife uses it in her steam iron. (she does quilting and stuff)
> If you could find someone that has an RO system for their home water, and it has a low TDS it might qualify as a viable substitute.


One of the most awesome things you can do with distilled water,

anyone else remember these things?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philliesfan*
> 
> One of the most awesome things you can do with distilled water,
> 
> anyone else remember these things?


No...but im certain i want one!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> im asking this because i am planing my build (i.e. i have nothing at hand) and if someone has the mentioned case or any experience with it or anything that could help it will be very helpful, especially if he can tell if there is enough space for the rad with a fan.


Well, looking at some reviews, its pretty tight up there so unless you plan to mount the fan externally, you won't enough space for a rad a fan up there. Its super tight up there. If you haven't purchased the case, look into the 1200. If you need a medium case that can do a 200mm rad, corsairs 600 series have had these rads stuffed in them.

Any one know where I can find Alphacools nexxos ut60 140mm radiators in the US? I know Aquatuning.us has em but I'm looking for a US retailer first. I emailed ppcs if thye are planning to get them soon.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, looking at some reviews, its pretty tight up there so unless you plan to mount the fan externally, you won't enough space for a rad a fan up there. Its super tight up there. If you haven't purchased the case, look into the 1200. If you need a medium case that can do a 200mm rad, corsairs 600 series have had these rads stuffed in them.


Thanks for the input.

i was asking because i am looking for cases with a window in them already (but from the limited selection in my country...) that has a good/decent WC potential. (and since 200 rad is very close to a 360...)
Out of all the options (that are not overpriced, like the 810 unfortunately and the HAF X a bit and more







) there is the Phantom 410 (has enough for a cpu and single gpu), TT Chaser MK-I (which has two 200mm fan mounts on the top, might be promising. input will be very appreciated on this one) and others that are not in to my taste too much. might even settle with a Carbide 500R. (or if the Vengeance C70 arrives in time i will jump on that ASAP)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



if you are interested here (or this) is the whole selection (minus the switch 810, some Corsair cases and some more).
(warning, in hebrew, currency exchange is about ~3.9 USD to NIS and it changes a bit dynamically overtime.)


----------



## KaRLiToS

I will have some incoming updates in the next week(s)

This is the first one.


----------



## wermad

^^^









Thoughts on Alphacool ut60 420mm vs Phobya G-changer 420mm radiator???


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts on Alphacool ut60 420mm vs Phobya G-changer 420mm radiator???


Yeah, and there's some nice hardware there too.


----------



## Ganf

No mortal man deserves 4 7970's for his singular use... I hope your monitors implode....


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I will have some incoming updates in the next week(s)
> This is the first one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


~2300$ on a small couch





































(id hope for that most robbers have no idea of the value of this, but i do







)


----------



## KaRLiToS

I hope all waterblocks will be mounted by the end of the day.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> ~2300$ on a small couch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (id hope for that most robbers have no idea of the value of this, but i do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yes and my girlfriend hates me a little bit more.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> No mortal man deserves 4 7970's for his singular use... I hope your monitors implode....


Hahaha, I will keep an eye on my monitors. I hope I will be able to max out my resolution.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Yeah, and there's some nice hardware there too.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^


Wermad, I know you don't like EK but these were hard to find (especially in Canada), its the old design. The four are BNIB.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Wermad, I know you don't like EK but these were hard to find (especially in Canada), its the old design. The four are BNIB.


Just hate their customer service. I really never had any objections to performance. I don't like their new design so I know how hard it is to find the previous design









Looks awesome just sitting there in the open. I is jelly


----------



## derickwm

Looks like I have some catching up to do


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Looks like I have some catching up to do


Still waiting on the 7990? Go quad like Karlitos or go green (quad 680s or sli 690s)









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thoughts on Alphacool ut60 420mm vs Phobya G-changer 420mm radiator???


Any input from some one??? +1 for good info


----------



## derickwm

I'm having hope... at this point I almost want to wait for 8000 series though.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> One down, one more to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be posting my official Build Log later tonight if anybody is interested!


Very nice. I'm hoping to get something to that effect for my new Switch build. Shoot I'd be happy with just one of those cards to be honest with you.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> i was asking because i am looking for cases with a window in them already (but from the limited selection in my country...) that has a good/decent WC potential. (and since 200 rad is very close to a 360...)
> Out of all the options (that are not overpriced, like the 810 unfortunately and the HAF X a bit and more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) there is the Phantom 410 (has enough for a cpu and single gpu), TT Chaser MK-I (which has two 200mm fan mounts on the top, might be promising. input will be very appreciated on this one) and others that are not in to my taste too much. might even settle with a Carbide 500R. (or if the Vengeance C70 arrives in time i will jump on that ASAP)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> if you are interested here (or this) is the whole selection (minus the switch 810, some Corsair cases and some more).
> (warning, in hebrew, currency exchange is about ~3.9 USD to NIS and it changes a bit dynamically overtime.)


I'm not sure if I misunderstood you or not. But in case just so you know you can get 2 gpus into a Phantom 410 comfortably. I have 2 6870's in crossfire in mine right now.


----------



## audioholic

Got my loop finished








Really trying to think of color tubing...probably red and just running distilled/kill coil.
Really trying to find a name for this thing. Love full watercooled Vulcan builds


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Got my loop finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really trying to think of color tubing...probably red and just running distilled/kill coil.
> Really trying to find a name for this thing. Love full watercooled Vulcan builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you use zip ties to lock the tubing onto the barbs , dont know if that way ghetto or genius , I wanna go with genius.. Ive always used compression so that just seems completely foreign


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Do you use zip ties to lock the tubing onto the barbs , dont know if that way ghetto or genius , I wanna go with genius.. Ive always used compression so that just seems completely foreign


Compression fittings are just a more expensive and fancy zip tie, using comps is mainly for looks.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Bought some cheap tubing from Home Depot today for my rad flushes. Had no idea 3/8 ID tubing was so tiny! Really glad I went with 1/2 ID for my actual tubing!


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah I like them for looks and just trust them more , even though I havnt actually heard of any barbs really leaking.. I just figure if something is too simple it cant work ( ignorant anyone ? )


----------



## mironccr345

I prefer barbs over compression. Mainly for looks and the price.


----------



## simonfredette

eah but monsoons are pretty gorgeous in a case


----------



## mironccr345

If that's what you prefer. I dont like the way they look.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Here is my rig I just finished water cooling. 1st build I did over a year ago. I know it's not perfect but I love it!







The Antec 1200 is an overall "OK" case imo. I mainly bought it without the intention of water cooling, but I figured what the heck nothing a dremel can't fix.









Anyways....hope you like it!

The Hardware.


Here is how I fit both radiators in the case. I had to cut a vent in the top of the case.






some different shots






and lit up in the dark.


----------



## simonfredette

looks awesome with the UV on , love the coil on that color


----------



## wermad

As much I spent on my new compression fittings, I could have gone with Monsoons, but I just don't feel the look tbh. They're very nice and unique, but when it came time to get new fittings, I had a nagging feeling these will look out of place. Some will like that they stand out, others prefer a blended look. I'm fine with the traditional compression fitting look, especially when you have all these extensions and adapters with a similar style. I don't regret it.

So I guess no one has any info on the Phobya 420mm rad vs the Alphacool. I'm siding on the Alphacool, also matches my fittings. Now, time to sell em SR1s and R4s


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Bought some cheap tubing from Home Depot today for my rad flushes. Had no idea 3/8 ID tubing was so tiny! Really glad I went with 1/2 ID for my actual tubing!


thats where i get my tubing from, 6 usd for 10ft sweet deal in my book...they carry watts 1/2IDx3/4OD tubing it's very clear i'm sure it will look good in your build








here vid if you wanna see what it look like with white coolant in it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28gOZRKLkeM&feature=g-upl


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



As much I spent on my new compression fittings, I could have gone with Monsoons, but I just don't feel the look tbh. They're very nice and unique, but when it came time to get new fittings, I had a nagging feeling these will look out of place. Some will like that they stand out, others prefer a blended look. I'm fine with the traditional compression fitting look, especially when you have all these extensions and adapters with a similar style. I don't regret it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So I guess no one has any info on the Phobya 420mm rad vs the Alphacool. I'm siding on the Alphacool, also matches my fittings. Now, time to sell em SR1s and R4s


I guess Im old school and can't get away from using barbs. I've only had experience using the Phobya 420 rad, so I can't compare. But I can say it's a well built rad and def worth giving a try.

What's the third 560 for?


----------



## ACIDpwns

Just finished my rig after months of editing and changing my mind on how i wanted the setup here's a few photos.... (mod of the month)...i hate it when people ask to get nominated i don't care about winning(would be nice) but after all my hard work i would be honored to just be nominated so i just had to do it.








Check out my build log in my sig for more photos


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I already have 20' of Durelene tubing on the way.









By the way, regarding fittings I have to say that I'm a total Bitspower fanboy! I have all Bitspower silver shining compression and adapter fittings going into my current project and couldn't be happier with the look and quality! Compression fittings all the way as far as I'm concerned...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACIDpwns*
> 
> Just finished my rig after months of editing and changing my mind on how i wanted the setup here's a few photos.... (mod of the month)...i hate it when people ask to get nominated i don't care about winning(would be nice) but after all my hard work i would be honored to just be nominated so i just had to do it.
> 
> Check out my build log in my sig for more photos


Nice build. This is art. I really like your custom parrallel bridge.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Do you use zip ties to lock the tubing onto the barbs , dont know if that way ghetto or genius , I wanna go with genius.. Ive always used compression so that just seems completely foreign


I didnt have actual hose clamps so I had to use zip ties


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACIDpwns*
> 
> Just finished my rig after months of editing and changing my mind on how i wanted the setup here's a few photos.... (mod of the month)...i hate it when people ask to get nominated i don't care about winning(would be nice) but after all my hard work i would be honored to just be nominated so i just had to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my build log in my sig for more photos


The biggest let down for me is the sharpie'd exterior tbh. The inside is pure bauss!!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> As much I spent on my new compression fittings, I could have gone with Monsoons, but I just don't feel the look tbh. They're very nice and unique, but when it came time to get new fittings, I had a nagging feeling these will look out of place. Some will like that they stand out, others prefer a blended look. I'm fine with the traditional compression fitting look, especially when you have all these extensions and adapters with a similar style. I don't regret it.
> 
> 
> I guess Im old school and can't get away from using barbs. I've only had experience using the Phobya 420 rad, so I can't compare. But I can say it's a well built rad and def worth giving a try.
> What's the third 560 for?


Thanks buddy







+1

The alphacool ut60 360 performed better than phobya g-changer 360 (Martin's test). The phobya did close the gap with higher rpm fans (2.2k) but I'm going to use 750-1500rpm fans. So the Alphacool is looking more appealing. Only site that has a good price is aquatuning.us. Its about the same pricing as the Phobya through ppcs.com, though aquatuning.us charges duty/taxes (offset by their cheaper shipping still).

I started off as a barb man but I love compression since they're simple and less fiddly. I hate that they cost a lot more but that's the trade off.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I didnt have actual hose clamps so I had to use zip ties


Nice , good ol watercoolers engineering , whatever keeps it cool and leakproof


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I will have some incoming updates in the next week(s)
> This is the first one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*looks for ninja costume*

Don't have one....err umm...I need to take custody of those.









Looking good, can't wait for the update.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm having hope... at this point I almost want to wait for 8000 series though.


Quote:


> Known under the codename "New Zealand", Radeon HD 7990 represents AMD's highest-end part from the Southern Islands architecture. Consisting out of two Tahiti XT GPUs and 6GB GDDR5 memory (special edition 7990s could reach 12GB), Radeon HD 7990 goes head to head against the GeForce GTX 690.
> 
> By default, AMD has the advantage in terms of 50% more video memory (GTX 690 has 4GB), significantly higher memory bandwidth and the new Turbo mode, technology similar to the Turbo mode used on NVIDIA Kepler-based cards with a few major differences.
> 
> Our sources are telling us that the boards are starting to be sampled, all in preparation for the product launch in the second half of July. We will release more details as the launch day approaches, as well as the final retail price, which still isn't decided as we write this story. While we know AMD's press deck, the company has a long tradition of changing the price at the last moment.
> 
> At the same time, a lot of AMD partners are running the card in their labs but aren't aware of the actual product launch. We will see in just a few weeks time.


ocn thread

source

Wow, this will be a true monster. Wonder what you can do with 12gb of vram







. I'm sure 6gb is plenty (as in the 7970 effective vram). Hold off for the 12gb version mate


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Do you use zip ties to lock the tubing onto the barbs , dont know if that way ghetto or genius , I wanna go with genius.. Ive always used compression so that just seems completely foreign
> 
> 
> 
> I didnt have actual hose clamps so I had to use zip ties
Click to expand...

You don't have to use zips if the barbs have a triple barb design. I've got BP barbs in my build that don't have a single zip tie one on them. It makes for a really fun disconnect when I have to get under my CPU.







lulz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I will have some incoming updates in the next week(s)
> This is the first one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *looks for ninja costume*
> 
> Don't have one....err umm...I need to take custody of those.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good, can't wait for the update.
Click to expand...

Just don't anybody look my direction if they come up missing prior to the build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very cool Majin. I need to get blox for my Cards. Maybe soon. Just need to sell some stuff first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you manage to get ref cards?
> I couldnt find any for love nor money....i ended up with EK bridge blocks for mine.
Click to expand...

Both my Sapphire cards are Reference cards.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
























PPCS has the blocks but I'm not sure I want to go with FC blocks or go with Universals and Swiftech heatsinks. They cost about the same give or take and of course we can get Universals in copper where FC only comes in that bleedin EN Nickel. And then there is the money issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, this will be a true monster. Wonder what you can do with 12gb of vram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm sure 6gb is plenty (as in the 7970 effective vram). Hold off for the 12gb version mate


5x1 eyefinity with catleaps is what I'm thinkin


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 5x1 eyefinity with catleaps is what I'm thinkin


My thoughts exactly.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 5x1 eyefinity with catleaps is what I'm thinkin


Catleaps?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Catleaps?


Yamakasi Catleap Monitors.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You don't have to use zips if the barbs have a triple barb design. I've got BP barbs in my build that don't have a single zip tie one on them. It makes for a really fun disconnect when I have to get under my CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz


PPCS has some low profile zips that look pretty decent and work well.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Yamakasi Catleap Monitors.


So whats so great about them?


----------



## derickwm

Cheap 2560x1400 monitors. End of story. Similar monitors sell for 3x the price.


----------



## superericla

Some can also "overclock" past their rated refresh rate to 100-120Hz.


----------



## n0n44m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> As much I spent on my new compression fittings, I could have gone with Monsoons, but I just don't feel the look tbh. They're very nice and unique, but when it came time to get new fittings, I had a nagging feeling these will look out of place. Some will like that they stand out, others prefer a blended look. I'm fine with the traditional compression fitting look, especially when you have all these extensions and adapters with a similar style. I don't regret it.


feel the same way about the Monsoons ... nicely engineered fittings but I can't get over the holes (or "windows") in the side









If they had solid knurled walls like all other fittings out there I'd definitely get them (in matte black) for a second build, especially after tightening 8 Alphacool rotaries and 18 EK compression fittings yesterday







my fingers tips now feel like plastic lol



build is nearing completion







(click pic for log)


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I already have 20' of Durelene tubing on the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, regarding fittings I have to say that I'm a total Bitspower fanboy! I have all Bitspower silver shining compression and adapter fittings going into my current project and couldn't be happier with the look and quality! Compression fittings all the way as far as I'm concerned...


Same here......and a Bitspower chrome dress kit for the D5.







I don't know how it's all going to turn out, looks wise, but I def like the fittings.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> i was asking because i am looking for cases with a window in them already (but from the limited selection in my country...) that has a good/decent WC potential. (and since 200 rad is very close to a 360...)
> Out of all the options (that are not overpriced, like the 810 unfortunately and the HAF X a bit and more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) there is the Phantom 410 (has enough for a cpu and single gpu), TT Chaser MK-I (which has two 200mm fan mounts on the top, might be promising. input will be very appreciated on this one) and others that are not in to my taste too much. might even settle with a Carbide 500R. (or if the Vengeance C70 arrives in time i will jump on that ASAP)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> if you are interested here (or this) is the whole selection (minus the switch 810, some Corsair cases and some more).
> (warning, in hebrew, currency exchange is about ~3.9 USD to NIS and it changes a bit dynamically overtime.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if I misunderstood you or not. But in case just so you know you can get 2 gpus into a Phantom 410 comfortably. I have 2 6870's in crossfire in mine right now.
Click to expand...

is it water cooling wise too? (i.e. enough space for CPU+2xGPU's loop, which needs like 120.4 rads i guess)


----------



## Didoss

nice


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Didoss*
> 
> hi mate... here my new loop..enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that looks great , what did you use to get the temp probe into the waterline?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Another teaser .


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Another teaser .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So now you can hold ~2300$ with one hand









Seriously now, Are you using Backplates ? and why aren't you using the single slot brackets ?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> So now you can hold ~2300$ with one hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously now, Are you using Backplates ? and why aren't you using the single slot brackets ?


Do I really need the single slot bracket? I never used that before even with my triple bridge. I will try the cards this morning, I need someone to help me turn the rig on its side.

And yes I will be using backplates, I am waiting for custom work from DWood. I wanted some clean works, works that look factory machined, and I don't have the tools for that. I didnt receive the backplates yet and I can't wait to try the cards so I will have to take everything apart to put those backplates.

Here is a teaser of what is going in my rig soon. (Not painted yet)



I made many mods, changed the power supply, sleeved the new PSU. Changed some fans, added some RGB leds. I have a lot of plexi work to do where I will have some plates on the front panel and on the 5.25" bay. The best led colors will be white, I tried it and its the best looking one in my rig.



Here is a video of the RGB lights. (Not expensive, cost me around 40$ for everything


----------



## bundymania

PS: *Bundymania is on facebook now*


----------



## Fuganater

Here is my rad stand I built from scratch.










More pictures and progress in the worklog: http://www.overclock.net/t/1224813/diy-radiator-stand/10#post_17648898


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Do I really need the single slot bracket? I never used that before even with my triple bridge. I will try the cards this morning, I need someone to help me turn the rig on its side.
> And yes I will be using backplates, I am waiting for custom work from DWood. I wanted some clean works, works that look factory machined, and I don't have the tools for that. I didnt receive the backplates yet and I can't wait to try the cards so I will have to take everything apart to put those backplates.
> Here is a teaser of what is going in my rig soon. (Not painted yet)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i think it quad-damages my 775 system... (not for long, soon it will quad damage my ivy)


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> is it water cooling wise too? (i.e. enough space for CPU+2xGPU's loop, which needs like 120.4 rads i guess)


I have a 240mm rad up top and a 120mm rad in the front on mine. I haven't added the water blocks for my gpus yet but there is enough space for it. And if needed I could even add another 120 in the rear exhaust slot. That third rad would probably make it look abit tight but it'll fit just fine. Here's a pic of my Phantom 410 just so you can get an idea of what I'm saying. My set-up looks alil tight becuase I'm using an internal reservoir. If you were to use a bay res be it dual or single you'd have more space also.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> I have a 240mm rad up top and a 120mm rad in the front on mine. I haven't added the water blocks for my gpus yet but there is enough space for it. And if needed I could even add another 120 in the rear exhaust slot. That third rad would probably make it look abit tight but it'll fit just fine. Here's a pic of my Phantom 410 just so you can get an idea of what I'm saying. My set-up looks alil tight becuase I'm using an internal reservoir. If you were to use a bay res be it dual or single you'd have more space also.


Thanks.
If the Corsair C70 wont arrive in time here or it will be overpriced, (for example the switch 810 costs 990 NIS, which is about 250$







) i will pretty much copy your build but with a bay res.

and the pump you have in the loop, how good is it? (considering the Phobya DP1200 rebrand)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: *Bundymania is on facebook now*


This block looks like what the Newer EK blocks should look like. In standard alignment, you'll never see the tops anyway. So I just don't get the whole new look. Probably doing it to drum up new customers to replace the ones they ticked off with the Nickel issue and blaming everything under the sun including Distilled.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah I have old Ek blocks on m 570s , Nickel EN blocks and I run distilled + silver , havnt had issues yet .. If I do its going to start getting harder to find 570 full blocks


----------



## koniu777

Sup everyone, done with the current setup so I'm posting few pics, hope you guys like it


----------



## simonfredette

love that window man


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> love that window man


Thx


----------



## eR_L0k0!!




----------



## spixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*


looks great .. but you know what would make it even better... snowflake fan grill instead of the brick


----------



## simonfredette

Spoiler: eR_L0k0!!eR_L0k0!!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*






what color tubing are you going with , or color coolant


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*


Do you have more pictures, I am very curious. I believe it will be a great rig.


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spixel*
> 
> looks great .. but you know what would make it even better... snowflake fan grill instead of the brick


+1....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> what color tubing are you going with , or color coolant


Masterkleer Clear + Mahyems Blue Berry










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Do you have more pictures, I am very curious. I believe it will be a great rig.


PM.


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Thanks.
> If the Corsair C70 wont arrive in time here or it will be overpriced, (for example the switch 810 costs 990 NIS, which is about 250$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) i will pretty much copy your build but with a bay res.
> and the pump you have in the loop, how good is it? (considering the Phobya DP1200 rebrand)






The pump I'm using is a Jingway Technologies DP600P. At first I thought I might end up getting a bigger on like the DP1200P but This one has served me well. Nice and quite and keeps everything well cooled. It is a 600 lph pump so I guess it's not too bad.


----------



## jagz

I'll be joining you guys soon!



It won't touch some of the last few rigs posted.. wow, amazing stuff guys. So universal blocks will work for lightning xtreme's? That's just a CPU loop up there ^


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey jagz I'm assuming your getting the Phobya screws for your Radiator? If so drop those and spend the little extra to get the Koolance Fan stud kit. Can't tell you how much they pay for themselves every time I clean the Radiator or swap out fans or...









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

XSPC uses 6-32 screws for their rads, which are slightly larger than the Phobya's M3.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> XSPC uses 6-32 screws for their rads, which are slightly larger than the Phobya's M3.


But the correct size for Koolance M4 thread pitch.









Oh and werm look at those again. Those screws are 6-32.









~Ceadder


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> Here is my rig I just finished water cooling. 1st build I did over a year ago. I know it's not perfect but I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Antec 1200 is an overall "OK" case imo. I mainly bought it without the intention of water cooling, but I figured what the heck nothing a dremel can't fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways....hope you like it!
> The Hardware.


*Some people keep porn under their bed.... you have Battlefield 3. =]*


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> PS: *Bundymania is on facebook now*












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey jagz I'm assuming your getting the Phobya screws for your Radiator? If so drop those and spend the little extra to get the Koolance Fan stud kit. Can't tell you how much they pay for themselves every time I clean the Radiator or swap out fans or...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Link please


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But the correct size for Koolance M4 thread pitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and werm look at those again. Those screws are 6-32.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


ugh, I missed that. I've been researching 420mm rads and I had Phobya in mind which uses M3. I didn't see it was a hardware kit







. They make some good and inexpensive hardware kits. I'm dropping the whole 420mm rad plan since I had no takers on my 360s. Moved some things around and I'm glad I kept the 360s







.

Yeah, i"ve seen those Koolance studs, though I never really thought about them since I have a heap of screws









@ GoodInk

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457_335_982


----------



## Shiikamaru

@jagz, where's the pump in your shopping list?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But the correct size for Koolance M4 thread pitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and werm look at those again. Those screws are 6-32.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ugh, I missed that. I've been researching 420mm rads and I had Phobya in mind which uses M3. I didn't see it was a hardware kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They make some good and inexpensive hardware kits. I'm dropping the whole 420mm rad plan since I had no takers on my 360s. Moved some things around and I'm glad I kept the 360s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Yeah, i"ve seen those Koolance studs, though I never really thought about them since I have a heap of screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ GoodInk
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457_335_982
Click to expand...

Thanks
I need some of those in 6/32" Right now I have to pull my rad in my Trooper to remove the fans.


----------



## ACIDpwns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The biggest let down for me is the sharpie'd exterior tbh. The inside is pure bauss!!!!


I just suck at painting no sharpie i promise


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Well, I had a good day today!











Dem fans!



D5 smexiness!!







More fittings!!



Loving the look of this fan controller and the X-Station will handle all of my lighting!!



Gotta love Alchemy sleeved fan cables...



...And Corsair's fully sleeved AX1200 kit!!



Other odds and ends..







Finally, this will be my drain port solution. What do you think?


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Well, I had a good day today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dem fans!
> 
> D5 smexiness!!
> 
> 
> 
> More fittings!!
> 
> Loving the look of this fan controller and the X-Station will handle all of my lighting!!
> 
> Gotta love Alchemy sleeved fan cables...
> 
> ...And Corsair's fully sleeved AX1200 kit!!
> 
> Other odds and ends..
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, this will be my drain port solution. What do you think?


EPIC


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Well, I had a good day today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dem fans!
> 
> D5 smexiness!!
> 
> 
> 
> More fittings!!
> 
> Loving the look of this fan controller and the X-Station will handle all of my lighting!!
> 
> Gotta love Alchemy sleeved fan cables...
> 
> ...And Corsair's fully sleeved AX1200 kit!!
> 
> Other odds and ends..
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, this will be my drain port solution. What do you think?


I looked at the Recon fan controller but ended going with a Lamptron as it was 30w per channel as opposed to the Recon's 10w, sorta regret it now, I really do prefer the look of the Recon.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I looked at the Lamptron as well but the touch screen is apparently fiddly to operate. I'm hoping 10W per channel will be enough to run two fans on each channel...


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I looked at the Lamptron as well but the touch screen is apparently fiddly to operate. I'm hoping 10W per channel will be enough to run two fans on each channel...


Should be fine for two fans, I need to run 4 per channel hence the Lamptron, and yep they are very fiddly to set, I have to use a toothpick and even then it takes a few gos to get it on what you want.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I looked at the Lamptron as well but the touch screen is apparently fiddly to operate. I'm hoping 10W per channel will be enough to run two fans on each channel...
> 
> 
> 
> Should be fine for two fans, I need to run 4 per channel hence the Lamptron, and yep they are very fiddly to set, I have to use a toothpick and even then it takes a few gos to get it on what you want.
Click to expand...

Yeah I wouldn't bet on it. My Yate Loons I believe are 3.6w each but some fans in the market can get as high as 6w or better.

Just look at the back of your fans if you have to and do the math

12v * .1A(amps) = 1w

substituting the correct value where necessary.









It should be fine but we should keep in mind manufacturer rating of (+/-) 10% of Rated value.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't bet on it. My Yate Loons I believe are 3.6w each but some fans in the market can get as high as 6w or better.
> Just look at the back of your fans if you have to and do the math
> 12v * .1A(amps) = 1w
> substituting the correct value where necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should be fine but we should keep in mind manufacturer rating of (+/-) 10% of Rated value.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Funnily enough the Noise Blockers don't have it on the back of the fan, at least the PK-2's I have here don't, my gt's have though.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My PL-2's say 1.92W and the PK-3's say 2.4W...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My PL-2's say 1.92W and the PK-3's say 2.4W...


Should be okay then. Just wanted to make sure that nobody blew their fan controller unintentionally.









~Ceadder


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I looked at the Lamptron as well but the touch screen is apparently fiddly to operate. I'm hoping 10W per channel will be enough to run two fans on each channel...
> 
> 
> 
> Should be fine for two fans, I need to run 4 per channel hence the Lamptron, and yep they are very fiddly to set, I have to use a toothpick and even then it takes a few gos to get it on what you want.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't bet on it. My Yate Loons I believe are 3.6w each but some fans in the market can get as high as 6w or better.
> 
> Just look at the back of your fans if you have to and do the math
> 
> *12v * .1A(amps) = 1w*
> 
> substituting the correct value where necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should be fine but we should keep in mind manufacturer rating of (+/-) 10% of Rated value.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

12v* .1A = 1.2w


----------



## Shogon

XSPC Razor block will be added whenever it gets here.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't bet on it. My Yate Loons I believe are 3.6w each but some fans in the market can get as high as 6w or better.
> Just look at the back of your fans if you have to and do the math
> 12v * .1A(amps) = 1w
> substituting the correct value where necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should be fine but we should keep in mind manufacturer rating of (+/-) 10% of Rated value.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What most people don't realise that the specs on most fans are running specs,the start up voltages can be three times higher.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hey everyone i was looking into buying a new case for my new liq.
cooled build but am unsure.
i have looked over the Cosmos II and the AZZA 9000 and am not sure if
they will have enough room as i want to put my XSPC RX360 rad (63mm) with 3
triebwerk fans (at 38mm thick) on it and also i would like fit another XSPC RX240 rad with
the same type of fans as on the 360 rad.
just not sure if there will be enough room.
i also have a 250mm res (frozenq fusion), and a D5 Vario pump to fit in the case as well.
does anyone have any of these cases and how is the room in it?
any other big cases anyone can suggest.
i'm especially interested in the azza 9000.
oh and i noticed the azza 9000 has an option where you can flip
the mother board config to normal or upside down (non traditional).
any other cases that can do this or are mobo upside down setup?
thanx.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey everyone i was looking into buying a new case for my new liq.
> cooled build but am unsure.
> i have looked over the Cosmos II and the AZZA 9000 and am not sure if
> they will have enough room as i want to put my XSPC RX360 rad (63mm) with 3
> triebwerk fans (at 38mm thick) on it and also i would like fit another XSPC RX240 rad with
> the same type of fans as on the 360 rad.
> just not sure if there will be enough room.
> i also have a 250mm res (frozenq fusion), and a D5 Vario pump to fit in the case as well.
> does anyone have any of these cases and how is the room in it?
> any other big cases anyone can suggest.
> i'm especially interested in the azza 9000.
> oh and i noticed the azza 9000 has an option where you can flip
> the mother board config to normal or upside down (non traditional).
> any other cases that can do this or are mobo upside down setup?
> thanx.


Little Devil v8,caselabs and tj07 (with modding parts widely available)
There are more but these ones are BTX for sure


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> @jagz, where's the pump in your shopping list?


Buying one from Maverick here on OCN


----------



## neSSa

The project is not yet over, but I hope soon the final photos


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> The project is not yet over, but I hope soon the final photos
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy cow. That is sexy looking. Nice job on the dual case setup.


----------



## Fonne

EK kit - EVGA Classified SR-X

http://www.ekwb.com/news/235/19/First-glimpse-of-EK-FB-KIT-EVGA-SR-X/


----------



## Fuganater

That mobo block looks like the XBOX 360 block lol.


----------



## johnko1

can someone confirm if ek mosfet waterblocks for maximus 4 gene-z work on maximus 5 gene?


----------



## Eyedea

No way would i deface a SR-X with those hideous blocks!


----------



## u3b3rg33k

lol wut? the only way they could look better, imho, is if they were flat and polished.


----------



## zdude

They really need to just give up on the circles thing it looks ugly and that is one poor sr-x right there...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Crap OC board that's crippled by intel coupled with crap looking blocks...match made in heaven.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EK kit - EVGA Classified SR-X
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/235/19/First-glimpse-of-EK-FB-KIT-EVGA-SR-X/


looks tight imo!


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Crap OC board that's crippled by intel coupled with crap looking blocks...match made in heaven.


I would get one one two conditions...

1) It supported AM3+
2) AMD supported multiple processors


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey everyone i was looking into buying a new case for my new liq.
> cooled build but am unsure.
> i have looked over the Cosmos II and the AZZA 9000 and am not sure if
> they will have enough room as i want to put my XSPC RX360 rad (63mm) with 3
> triebwerk fans (at 38mm thick) on it and also i would like fit another XSPC RX240 rad with
> the same type of fans as on the 360 rad.
> just not sure if there will be enough room.
> i also have a 250mm res (frozenq fusion), and a D5 Vario pump to fit in the case as well.
> does anyone have any of these cases and how is the room in it?
> any other big cases anyone can suggest.
> i'm especially interested in the azza 9000.
> oh and i noticed the azza 9000 has an option where you can flip
> the mother board config to normal or upside down (non traditional).
> any other cases that can do this or are mobo upside down setup?
> thanx.


A Nzxt switch 810 takes and rx360 and an rx 240 quite comfortably , nice looking case 4-5 different colors , around 160$ depending on sales and the support and stuff for it is pretty great , theres an official owners club on here with a couple nzxt reps.


----------



## simonfredette

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*





looks tight imo!

yeah I havnt seen many builds with the new EK designed blocks , everyone is tearing into EK for making them but we havnt seen a ton of builds with them yet and it does look good on your board so far.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

You don't see many builds with the CSQ theme because everybody is scrounging up all of the old style EK blocks they can find for their new builds. Lol...


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah but it will be nice to see what it can look like , for every crappy looking block theres a pc modder who is great enough to make it work and thats what I want to see.


----------



## driftingforlife

I sent an email to EK last night saying how rubbish they look.


----------



## kzim9

Just a few pics from my project......

Just flowing for the first time...


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I sent an email to EK last night saying how rubbish they look.


I sent them an mail if they were gonne make atleast a limited editon without the CSQ design, but he said no!


----------



## driftingforlife

I'm thinking if everybody hates them why don't we make a petition?


----------



## Fonne

Here is a complete setup, with all the new block ...


----------



## Bouf0010

you guys are all crazy - i think they look great. Especially that SLI Bridge ^^^^


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

It does look great............if you're into disco and bell bottoms!


----------



## ugotd8

Disco, bell bottoms and lots of flush fit stop plugs.









When you've worked in a machine shop, it looks like the the three stooges drilled those blocks...

"Ok, put the inlet there... NO wait! Put it there. No wait.. there..."


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Here is a complete setup, with all the new block ...
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/949735/width/591/height/700/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like that design,it looks much better in person
Still waiting for my ek supremacy to arrive


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> It does look great............if you're into disco and bell bottoms!


If I had the money, I would do a disco build, just so they would look good...lol


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I'm thinking if everybody hates them why don't we make a petition?


There is one , on the EK thread we did a petition to see what wed get , other forums like geekhack did the same thing and everywhere ends up with the same ish % , 80% against 20% like..

heres the link : http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks

Im really not ready to judge until I see a bunch of finished products , I have the old style and love them so its easy to say the old style was nicer but wait for a couple builds with chromed copper tubing or something , im sure people will figure out how to make it look sweet!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> EK kit - EVGA Classified SR-X
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/235/19/First-glimpse-of-EK-FB-KIT-EVGA-SR-X/


Kill it with fire!









Not that I had expected much from EK but damn.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I sent an email to EK last night saying how rubbish they look.


Did they respond at all? Id be interested to know what they said








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Crap OC board that's crippled by intel coupled with crap looking blocks...match made in heaven.


Is it true that you cant OC any of the processors that fit in this board?


----------



## jellis142

I think it's funny that the SR-X is "the most powerful dual-processor motherboard" on the market. I know it's for LGA 2011, but I can't help but think in the back of my mind...

_Locked Xeons... locked Xeons..._









It irritates me that SB-E (at least on the RIVE), requires two separate waterblocks; earlier motherboards had VRM's and space to route a single block. Not that I'm complaining, but it seems the more powerful it is, the more inconvenient it is


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Here is a complete setup, with all the new block ...


Only thing I would change with that rig, that sticker.... that little purple sticker lol


----------



## simonfredette

yeah its like the men in black wearing a hello kitty backpack , nice rig though super clean


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I looked at the Lamptron as well but the touch screen is apparently fiddly to operate. I'm hoping 10W per channel will be enough to run two fans on each channel...
> 
> 
> 
> Should be fine for two fans, I need to run 4 per channel hence the Lamptron, and yep they are very fiddly to set, I have to use a toothpick and even then it takes a few gos to get it on what you want.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't bet on it. My Yate Loons I believe are 3.6w each but some fans in the market can get as high as 6w or better.
> 
> Just look at the back of your fans if you have to and do the math
> 
> *12v * .1A(amps) = 1w*
> 
> substituting the correct value where necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should be fine but we should keep in mind manufacturer rating of (+/-) 10% of Rated value.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 12v* .1A = 1.2w
Click to expand...

True, but it was only set up as an example of the formula. You'd be surprised how many formulaic gaffs are in a text book. Or at least were in the last textbook I had. And I did state that 1 is to be replaced with the correct value so the formula is still True either way.







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't bet on it. My Yate Loons I believe are 3.6w each but some fans in the market can get as high as 6w or better.
> Just look at the back of your fans if you have to and do the math
> 12v * .1A(amps) = 1w
> substituting the correct value where necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should be fine but we should keep in mind manufacturer rating of (+/-) 10% of Rated value.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What most people don't realise that the specs on most fans are running specs,the start up voltages can be three times higher.
Click to expand...

Yes but spool up only takes ~1 second. Which is why people don't think about it I'd wager.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> @jagz, where's the pump in your shopping list?
> 
> 
> 
> Buying one from Maverick here on OCN
Click to expand...

I have 2 of them and they are just simply awesome. I'll be getting more if I can.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> The project is not yet over, but I hope soon the final photoshttp://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/949327/width/600/height/620/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is right dead secsy bro.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> No way would i deface a SR-X with those hideous blocks!












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Crap OC board that's crippled by intel coupled with crap looking blocks...match made in heaven.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> EK kit - EVGA Classified SR-X
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/235/19/First-glimpse-of-EK-FB-KIT-EVGA-SR-X/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kill it with fire!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I had expected much from EK but damn.
Click to expand...

Gonna take more than fire to kill it mate. It's water cooled. Has it's own on board fire supression system. A fugly one at that.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> yeah I havnt seen many builds with the new EK designed blocks , everyone is tearing into EK for making them but we havnt seen a ton of builds with them yet and it does look good on your board so far.


Yeah haha, idk why people hate em so much, its silly. If you dont like just move on. I may perhaps be the first an ocn'er to have my new rig decked out in csq blocks, and its gonna look good


----------



## derickwm

Just wanted to make sure everyone has seen these MIPS blocks so for those of us that own an SR-X won't buy EK's awful building blocks.


















Copper version should be shipping this week and will retail for €124.99.

Nickel plated version coming soon.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> The project is not yet over, but I hope soon the final photos


Amazing build mate









@Ceadderman...was this what you had in mind? Thought you were doing it with four 932s ?


----------



## Skripka

My current toy. First whot is only well lit full computer box shot I have from old build:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> The project is not yet over, but I hope soon the final photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing build mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Ceadderman...was this what you had in mind? Thought you were doing it with four 932s ?
Click to expand...

Something along those lines. But will be doing a Triple.









Just wanted to get my Cooling done first cause I realized how much it was gonna take to do the triple. I wanted 5 cases so I had more than enough parts but I see I don't need 5 now. 3 should suffice with some odds'n ends to fill in the gaps.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Geezes Ceadder, B-Neg is going to have a heart attack


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Geezes Ceadder, B-Neg is going to have a heart attack


Haha I swear Mate that wasn't me. That was freakin Huddler show its arse again.









~Ceadder


----------



## egotrippin

I'd like to see somebody with the EK blocks with the circles use the Primochill Ghost fittings I use... so far I haven't seen anybody else use them.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> My current toy. First whot is only well lit full computer box shot I have from old build:


Is that an H2go? Looks great!


----------



## bomberjun

My entry during the MSI Overdrive Rig showdown here in Manila, Philippines. (July 6-8, 2012)










Showdown booth.


----------



## koxoxok

Here's mine



here's the build:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1279224/build-log-first-wc-810-rig-koxoxok


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> My entry during the MSI Overdrive Rig showdown here in Manila, Philippines. (July 6-8, 2012)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showdown booth.


Why do people insist on touching? The guy on the left end of the table should have his fingers broke if that wasn't his system or is not one of the judges. Considering he's wearing a satchel pack, I think he's neither.









~Ceadder


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why do people insist on touching? The guy on the left end of the table should have his fingers broke if that wasn't his system or is not one of the judges. Considering he's wearing a satchel pack, I think he's neither.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I looked outside yesterday and two women talking were leaning on my car in the parking lot, what the heck man! I yelled out and got a responce of "oh sorry"


----------



## bomberjun

That is one of the concerns that i lifted to the organizers that was not anticipated. However, we kept on telling these people not to touch the rigs.


----------



## wermad

Next time, bring in some tigers, bears, and then they touch...oh my


----------



## superericla

It's my birthday (July 9th).


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koxoxok*
> 
> Here's mine
> 
> here's the build:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1279224/build-log-first-wc-810-rig-koxoxok


Sexy rig man, that coolant and pump kit is amazing... care to share where you got them or at least what kind they are?


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It's my birthday (July 9th).


Happy birthday!!!presents are coming!!!!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Happy birthday!!!presents are coming!!!!


I actually opened most of my presents already haha. I have a new motherboard that'll be here today though so it'll be a good gift from myself.


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> The project is not yet over, but I hope soon the final photos


i just want to know how u went about doing that it is cool man


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Disco, bell bottoms and lots of flush fit stop plugs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you've worked in a machine shop, it looks like the the three stooges drilled those blocks...
> "Ok, put the inlet there... NO wait! Put it there. No wait.. there..."


Haha, thanks for the laugh!


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Banner Contributed By !Lester!
> 
> *Purpose:*
> 
> I want this thread to exist for 2 purposes. The first purpose is so that we can all enjoy the shear beauty and power of water cooling. The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Rules:*
> 
> To join this club simply post *pics of your COMPLETE rig in THIS THREAD* and I will add you to the list. The rules are not strict, ANY form of liquid cooling is good; that includes users of products like the Corsair H50. Feel free to post multiple builds and have multiple posts, I will add them next to your original post in the list. Even builds you no longer have are acceptable, just so long as they were built by you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Award Winners:*
> 
> CL3P20- Farthest below freezing point of water award winner
> Patch- Anvil in a PC award winner
> Sun- Most interesting internal radiator mounting award winner
> voigts- Classiest wooden case award winner
> jirapanpoo- Most GPU blocks award winner
> Oliverw92- Most tiny R2D2esque PC award winner
> KShirza1- Least tubing used award winner
> Warfarin88- "This should have an award but I can't decide what to call it" award winner
> ny_driver - Ceiling Computer is Watching You Overclock Award Winner
> MedRed - Straightest Tubing Award Winner
> 808MP5 - Most Excessive Use Of Rotaries Award Winner
> CD69Scorp - The Set-Top Rad Box Award Winner
> Zippeee - Living Room Wall Art PC Award Winner
> 
> *Sig Tag:*
> OCN Water Cooling Club
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/0_20]OCN Water Cooling Club[/URL]


how do i go about putting my pic on here


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why do people insist on touching? The guy on the left end of the table should have his fingers broke if that wasn't his system or is not one of the judges. Considering he's wearing a satchel pack, I think he's neither.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I looked outside yesterday and two women talking were leaning on my car in the parking lot, what the heck man! I yelled out and got a responce of "oh sorry"
Click to expand...

I get very bent out of shape when people touch things that they aren't sposed to touch.

Worked at a museum for a little while and they have gilded furniture. Which is gold rubbed into the wood as a way of finishing it. It was primarily used for families of nobility. I lost count how many times I had to explain to people not to touch it because it can be rubbed off pretty easily. They even used it on Painting frames etc.

Then of course you have people that wear big bundles of keys on their belts that can leave big gouges in the paint of whatever they lean on. I saw a guy at a school function car wash chew out the kids cause one of the cars came up with a ginormous scratch on it.

I just don't understand why people don't get it. I work hard building my systems, I shouldn't need to come along and tell people to keep their grubby mitts off it. That should not only be common sense but it should be something they learned in their formative years.









Sorry guys that's something that really sets my OCD on edge.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

Alphacool is back on track with a new cpu block, so check it out:


----------



## Ceadderman

How is that flow in the AlphaCool block Bundy? Comparable to EK HF Supreme?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> How is that flow in the AlphaCool block Bundy? Comparable to EK HF Supreme *Supremacy*?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Corrected









Alphacool is really shinning with some of their new stuff. This looks like a competitor for the Raystorm (and others)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> How is that flow in the AlphaCool block Bundy? Comparable to EK HF Supreme *Supremacy*?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corrected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool is really shinning with some of their new stuff. This looks like a competitor for the Raystorm (and others)
Click to expand...

Pretty sure I'm correct in that is what I am running is the Supreme not the stupid CSQ Bubble Boy block.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> how do i go about putting my pic on here


I put it on for you.
If you are quoting pictures,please use the spoiler tags for anything over 1 picture.
Enjoy your stay

Ceadderman,you doing a 3 case cube?
If you are, i like! Pics or it didnt happen


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure I'm correct in that is what I am running is the Supreme not the stupid CSQ Bubble Boy block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


lol, I found it slightly humorous about the name change. Anyways, new fittings should come in tomorrow







and I'm planning to stuff more rad some where in my almost full case.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I will put money on a new addition to EK's warranty.....open blocks=RMA denied.
You could never be sure the blocks werent going south without opening them,cunning work from Eddy right there.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure I'm correct in that is what I am running is the Supreme not the stupid CSQ Bubble Boy block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


It looks like EK is not willing to provide a testsample....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> It looks like EK is not willing to provide a testsample....


They are denying you Bundy?
Thats not a good start....

Thread UPDATED.
Welcome to all the new watercoolers.
Excellent standard of pictures coming thru and some eye catching builds being posted.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure I'm correct in that is what I am running is the Supreme not the stupid CSQ Bubble Boy block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like EK is not willing to provide a testsample....
Click to expand...

That's not a good sign. Apparently Eddy wishes to limit his market exposure as well as wishes to use this time to practice his craft.









~Ceadder


----------



## neSSa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> i just want to know how u went about doing that it is cool man


Works very well







. CPU temperature does not exceed 70c when the test LinX 4.2GHz 1.36v, while the GPU test UniGene heaven max temp 45c for the warmest. I have to mention that now that the summer temperature is 27c in the house, and to all the fans spinning at 400rpm because I love the silence.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's not a good sign. Apparently Eddy wishes to limit his market exposure as well as wishes to use this time to practice his craft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Have a look at the last reviews, which are linked on the EK Site - there is only one waterblock from EK in the particular "review" and no others blocks - Question is..why ?!

http://www.ekwb.com/reviews/water-blocks-reviews/

Are they afraid of other companies, because they know that they have no chance to get a 1st place in a non-biased review ? I dunno...

There is a review of the new supremacy cpu block @hardwaremax.net and you know what..performance is *behind* the older HF Supreme !

http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/487-test-ekwb-supremacy-der-verstossene.html?showall=0&start=3

No..he don´t get the testsample from EK....it was provided by A.T.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> Works very well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . CPU temperature does not exceed 70c when the test LinX 4.2GHz 1.36v, while the GPU test UniGene heaven max temp 45c for the warmest. I have to mention that now that the summer temperature is 27c in the house, and to all the fans spinning at 400rpm because I love the silence.


27C only?? Today I got about 35c inside!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Have a look at the last reviews, which are linked on the EK Site - there is only one waterblock from EK in the particular "review" and no others blocks - Question is..why ?!
> http://www.ekwb.com/reviews/water-blocks-reviews/
> Are they afraid of other companies, because they know that they have no chance to get a 1st place in a non-biased review ? I dunno...
> There is a review of the new supremacy cpu block @hardwaremax.net and you know what..performance is *behind* the older HF Supreme !
> http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/487-test-ekwb-supremacy-der-verstossene.html?showall=0&start=3
> No..he don´t get the testsample from EK....it was provided by A.T.


wow,this post changed my mind about this block especially the review (vs ltx?really?)I was waiting for the block to arrive on a local store but it seems I will have to pick something else (their support sucks too I heard)

So what other wateblocks would you reccommend?High end ones please (no nickel)


----------



## bundymania

No Nickel....ok, there is not a big difference between newer blocks as you can see in many charts.....maybe the Koolance 370SI, XSPC Rasa, or Swiftech Apogee HD is the right block for you


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> It looks like EK is not willing to provide a testsample....


Have you a sample of the Bitspower summit block Bundy? There does not seem to be any performance reviews done for it yet that I can find.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> No Nickel....ok, there is not a big difference between newer blocks as you can see in many charts.....maybe the Koolance 370SI, XSPC Rasa, or Swiftech Apogee HD is the right block for you


Well,I don't really like the look of theese blocks,I prefer something like supreme hf (square look).Wich are the other options?Is raystorm block good(seems better than rasa)


----------



## bundymania

Yeah the raystorm is very good, i can recommend it !

@Krahe: I´m in contact with Vincent from Bitspower and it looks like he will send me the block soon


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah the raystorm is very good, i can recommend it !
> @Krahe: I´m in contact with Vincent from Bitspower and it looks like he will send me the block soon


Thanks,that's the ONE then








It seems my whole w/c loop is from xspc


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Well,I don't really like the look of theese blocks,I prefer something like supreme hf (square look).Wich are the other options?Is raystorm block good(seems better than rasa)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah the raystorm is very good, i can recommend it !
> @Krahe: I´m in contact with Vincent from Bitspower and it looks like he will send me the block soon


The acetal raystorm is quite good. I can recommend any of the blocks from DT. They're lower restriction than anything else out there,


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah the raystorm is very good, i can recommend it !
> @Krahe: I´m in contact with Vincent from Bitspower and it looks like he will send me the block soon


Thats great news Bundy, looking forward to your review.


----------



## neSSa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> 27C only?? Today I got about 35c inside!


Neighbor, air conditioner working in the house


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It's my birthday (July 9th).


Happy B-Day Brother!!! May All Your Wishes Come True Today. And May the FedEx man ring your doorbell with a new Switch 810 and full array of Nzxt hardware and also $4000 in water cooling









By the way it's my mom's B-Day today so it's definitely a special day!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> I'd like to see somebody with the EK blocks with the circles use the Primochill Ghost fittings I use... so far I haven't seen anybody else use them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They generally aren't used because they crack and leak. I would never trust my hardware to Primochill acrylic, ever.


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They generally aren't used because they crack and leak. I would never trust my hardware to Primochill acrylic, ever.


He's using the "black ghost", and they are made of metal.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> He's using the "black ghost", and they are made of metal.












No idea they had these.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Thats great news Bundy, looking forward to your review.


BTW: Today i released the Update from the 7970 waterblock review with 3 more blocks - have a look in my sig.


----------



## rotary7

They are starting to grow on me, I like them


----------



## Ceadderman

As per the "St0ned" review as linked thru EK...



As you can see the thickness from one plate to the next is NOT uniform.

EK-Supremacy review @ St0ned Review

I don't see how anyone can can take this company serious anymore.

The tops alone are fugly. Will they grow on people? Sure. But if you can't even keep your flow plates a single consistent thickness, how can anyone put their confidence in your build quality? In case anyone thinks that the thickness isn't important the thinner the plate in the chamber the greater the likelihood of the plate "floating" in a chamber that is manufactured to "exact" tolerances. The thicker the plate the greater the likelihood of leaking.

So until Eddy pulls his head of his nether region I suggest this...








Move along people nothing to see here.
















The Quality of EK has seriously gone in the toilet when a review they've linked doesn't even inspire confidence in the product. It can only get worse so long as Eddy is in denial.









If he'll submit a block to Bundy that can be reviewed and compared to other products(STANDARD FARE IN THIS BUSINESS) and it's shown that this was just a minor gaffe that has been fixed, I'm willing to change my thinking. Or if he sends me one I'll give it an honest review compared to my EK Supreme. I don't see how he can be afraid of a straight up comparison with a v1 Supreme. We know that v2 is slightly better than v1 blocks. So if it can hold up in comparison to my current block then I'm willing to give the benefit where it's due.









~Ceadder


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> As you can see the thickness from one plate to the next is NOT uniform.


You know this is done on purpose to give the block a different bow for different kind of CPUs right?


----------



## simonfredette

yeah but its not even uniform from one block to anothter of the same kind , 2 brand new blocks for the same size socket and chip and the thickness is different , like hes cutting it out of different thickness of sheets or failing with the cnc


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> As you can see the thickness from one plate to the next is NOT uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> You know this is done on purpose to give the block a different bow for different kind of CPUs right?
Click to expand...

Yes I did understand that, but sorry don't buy it. Air cooling heatsinks don't come with different bases. They're all machined to the same tolerances. You want the flattest surface you can get. And nothing in the industry has changed so much that it required EK to mess with the internal structure of their block imho. I haven't seen or heard of anyone else doing this.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

What do you think is really going on over at EK? I'm fascinated by the apparent suicide path they seem to be on at the moment...


----------



## Skoobs

lol i dont know how he can look at the fact that the three plates that come with the supreme are different thicknesses and get what he got out of it. if you want to see if his tolerances are screwed up, someone would have to buy like 6 blocks and measure. the thickest plate that comes with that block is also the one with the smallest hole, right? thats what it looks like to me, and it makes sense, because the plate with the smallest hole would have to stand the highest pressure/fastest flow at the plate. not that these plates have to be precise anyway...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes I did understand that, but sorry don't buy it. Air cooling heatsinks don't come with different bases. They're all machined to the same tolerances. You want the flattest surface you can get. And nothing in the industry has changed so much that it required EK to mess with the internal structure of their block imho. I haven't seen or heard of anyone else doing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


really? you cant compare these plates to air cooling bases... all these plates do is control the flow rate though the block. really it doesnt even matter if they are precise. they dont have to be perfectly smooth, and they dont come in contact with anything... especially the CPU.

nothing in the industry COULD change that would make them have to change the structure of these plates. there is no standardized water block plate or any reason that new CPUs would require a new plate to be made. it is completely up to the manufacturer, and if they find that cutting the shape of elmo's head into the plate resulted in the best temps, why should they not do it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK-Supremacy review @ St0ned Review


that guy uses way too much thermal paste... in every mount but the last one. you're only filling in the microscopic gaps between the IHS and the blocks... you dont need to frost it like a cake.


----------



## Skoobs




----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs*
> 
> you're only filling in the microscopic gaps between the IHS and the blocks... you dont need to frost it like a cake.


Sig worthy.


----------



## zoson

Skoobs, EK states that the different thickness of the plates is to change the bow on the mating side of the block. Flow isn't the only thing they change.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs*
> 
> lol i dont know how he can look at the fact that the three plates that come with the supreme are different thicknesses and get what he got out of it. if you want to see if his tolerances are screwed up, someone would have to buy like 6 blocks and measure. the thickest plate that comes with that block is also the one with the smallest hole, right? thats what it looks like to me, and it makes sense, because the plate with the smallest hole would have to stand the highest pressure/fastest flow at the plate. not that these plates have to be precise anyway...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes I did understand that, but sorry don't buy it. Air cooling heatsinks don't come with different bases. They're all machined to the same tolerances. You want the flattest surface you can get. And nothing in the industry has changed so much that it required EK to mess with the internal structure of their block imho. I haven't seen or heard of anyone else doing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really? you cant compare these plates to air cooling bases... all these plates do is control the flow rate though the block. really it doesnt even matter if they are precise. they dont have to be perfectly smooth, and they dont come in contact with anything... especially the CPU.
> 
> nothing in the industry COULD change that would make them have to change the structure of these plates. there is no standardized water block plate or any reason that new CPUs would require a new plate to be made. it is completely up to the manufacturer, and if they find that cutting the shape of elmo's head into the plate resulted in the best temps, why should they not do it?
Click to expand...

Ever heard of cavitation? If the plate is floating inside the chamber that will cause cavitation. Cavitation which will rob the system by restricting flow.









Oh and just so we're on the same page here, I'm not worried nor was I saying anything about the flow pattern cut into the plates. I'm hoping this is what you were referring to. If you're meaning the exterior surface well... that simplay makes no sense.









At no time was I comparing Air Cooling to Water Cooling. I only point out that the industry hones their contact plates to be as flat as possible to get the best contact between the CPU and the cooling surface. I see no reason for EK to make this drastic a change to create an obvious design flaw. That's what my point was all along. I don't buy that EK designed this block to flex. That makes absolutely no sense when their block is larger than the size of the CPU and the Socket combined. If I want better contact I'll just lapp the damned CPU and be done with it. Let's not forget that no two CPU are finished within exacting surface tolerances.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK-Supremacy review @ St0ned Review
> 
> 
> 
> that guy uses way too much thermal paste... in every mount but the last one. you're only filling in the microscopic gaps between the IHS and the blocks... you dont need to frost it like a cake.
Click to expand...

Agreed. But this isn't my review and I'm not sticking up for the guy that did it. I only linked the review to cite for the Pic I used which was directly taken from it. I think that he was using as much as he did to show which was used for the best surface tension. Which you wouldn't be able to see with a correctly applied amount of TIM because there wouldn't be any excess on the locking plate. I can't speak to his motivation there only what I believe to be the case.









~Ceadder


----------



## chino1974

Ceadderman I have a noobish question for you. If you don't mind to much what is cpu lapping what does it do? Sorry I'm sure I sound like a major dummy but if you don't ask you don't learn. Right?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Its basically just a process of polishing/sanding the IHS for a smoother contact patch. Properly lapped CPU's are almost mirror-like....


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah the raystorm is very good, i can recommend it !
> @Krahe: I´m in contact with Vincent from Bitspower and it looks like he will send me the block soon


Sweet, looking forward to that. I'm already using the BP Summit on my SB-E, performing very well.

Stren is doing a WB roundup as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Its basically just a process of polishing/sanding the IHS for a smoother contact patch. Properly lapped CPU's are almost mirror-like....


This.

I have a couple... well I actually only have one now. Sold the other a month or so ago. But I'll be lapping this 1100T soon I think. Might RMA it to make sure I have a good one before getting into it.







lol

Formerly my 955 with my EK Supreme block...


















~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Updates coming in today. Pictures will be up later.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ever heard of cavitation? If the plate is floating inside the chamber that will cause cavitation. Cavitation which will rob the system by restricting flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The plate doesnt float,its held in place by the top and base...the thicker the plate,the more bow is exerted on the base.
By controlling the bow,you control the contact patch,so larger dies get less bow for a greater contact patch while 2011 socket with the smaller die get a more pronounced contact point.
Cavitation means that cavities or bubbles are forming in the liquid that we're pumping. These cavities form at the low pressure or suction side of the pump,not on the pressurized side like the inlet for a block.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koxoxok*
> 
> Here's mine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the build:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1279224/build-log-first-wc-810-rig-koxoxok


Sick build, man! I really dig the blue D5 kit with the blue coolant.


----------



## wermad




----------



## googleberry

I love this thread. The parts are starting to roll in for my new build and it's going to be W/C. Lots of great ideas in here and tons of inspiration. Keep up the great work!


----------



## Hamy144

Thoughts?



Have plans for another 360 and 240 after i put in the GPU into the loop


----------



## johnko1

I definitely need to rush to complete my water cooling loop. Just tried [email protected] and cpu immediately jumped to 83c core!I hate summer!!!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Have plans for another 360 and 240 after i put in the GPU into the loop


My first thought is you are missing half the case, that is a massive looking case.

I think it will look fantastic if when you put the extra two rads in, then maybe even a MB block.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have plans for another 360 and 240 after i put in the GPU into the loop


Thoughts? You like Coke


----------



## rotary7

Last years line up with EK was good if you go for the copper one, so im happy with my EK parts, I might even try out the new CPU blocks.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> My first thought is you are missing half the case, that is a massive looking case.
> I think it will look fantastic if when you put the extra two rads in, then maybe even a MB block.


I was thinking a MB block but they dont make them for my board







but maybe custom made?!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Thoughts? You like Coke


Thats not even a small portion of the ones i have!


----------



## wermad

This build is really fighting me







. I'm not too happy with the tube color so I'm hoping I get get the pearl blue I used before in this size. I manage to plumb it though:


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I was thinking a MB block but they dont make them for my board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but maybe custom made?!
> Thats not even a small portion of the ones i have!


not so much custom made as using universals , they make them for the vregs and NB

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=153_67&products_id=630
http://koolance.com/mvr-40-motherboard-vreg-water-block

I cant imagine what custom would cost you but I doubt its even realistic .


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> not so much custom made as using universals , they make them for the vregs and NB
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=153_67&products_id=630
> http://koolance.com/mvr-40-motherboard-vreg-water-block
> I cant imagine what custom would cost you but I doubt its even realistic .


I was thinking of using the koolance ones they look great but i doint think custom would cost too much i know a guy who owns a mill and the copper wouldnt be too expensive if you shop around


----------



## ginger_nuts

@ Wermad, What tubing is that? Is it meant to be blue?

I have some Primochill blue that looks very similar color









I wish I could get more XSPC blue, because that stuff is a blue









I am now considering getting Danger Dens black/UV blue tubing


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Looks like I'll have to wait for Newegg to get more stock of their Rosewill Lightning 1300's in before I can get my rig to work. Sucks to be this close to completion, only to have a hiccup like this. If that 1300 watt PSU isn't enough to power my 8 LED fans, 12" UV tubes, adjustable D5, optical, SSD and HDD drives, and the trouble making (and apparently grossly underpowered) GTX 590 HC that started this whole mess - then I don't know what will. You'd think with something as simple a set up like that, a 900 watt PSU could handle it. But I guess after word of mouth on "A****'s" quality (the one I bought before researching), their PSU seems more like a POS.


----------



## simonfredette

yeah the koolance is nice for sure and if ou know someone who can measure it out and mill it than thats the best option for sure , I dont know anyone so its always been a cheaper option for me to just change out my motherboard for one with an available block


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> @ Wermad, What tubing is that? Is it meant to be blue?
> I have some Primochill blue that looks very similar color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I could get more XSPC blue, because that stuff is a blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am now considering getting Danger Dens black/UV blue tubing


Its Primochill "uv blue". looks more purple tbh. Up close you can see its like a deep blue but in the pics it looks purple (especially with little light). I got some of their upcoming "pearl blue for my old setup (3/8x1/2) which looks a lot better than this. I asked my contact if they will be launching this pearl blue any time soon. I'm suspecting they're delaying their new colors due to the plasticizing issues.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its Primochill "uv blue". looks more purple tbh. Up close you can see its like a deep blue but in the pics it looks purple (especially with little light). I got some of their upcoming "pearl blue for my old setup (3/8x1/2) which looks a lot better than this. I asked my contact if they will be launching this pearl blue any time soon. I'm suspecting they're delaying their new colors due to the plasticizing issues.


My old scout with blue primoschill....



Not blue at all...


----------



## chino1974

Guys any comments or opinions on the Danger Den Rad-Reservoir ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My old scout with blue primoschill....
> 
> Not blue at all...


Wow, is that res connected traight to the block? Very interesting setup









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys any comments or opinions on the Danger Den Rad-Reservoir ?


Its more practical but less flexible if you want to change the rad or the res down the road. I usually stay away from the combo parts.


----------



## derickwm

B-neg, your build wins the award of "the build with the least amount of tubing ever".


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> B-neg, your build wins the award of "the build with the least amount of tubing ever".


For sure! Love it.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, is that res connected traight to the block? Very interesting setup


Not quite,it did have a little stub of tube.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, is that res connected traight to the block? Very interesting setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its more practical but less flexible if you want to change the rad or the res down the road. I usually stay away from the combo parts.


No it not a combo part that the name of the model. Danger Den makes a reservoir that is called a RAD-Reservoir. Lol! I guess they call it that because the bracket are sized so you can bolt it on a 120 radiator if you wanted or in the holes for a fan mount. I was asking to see if anyone ever used one or had any opinions on them.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not quite,it did have a little stub of tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The only person I have ever seen who can watercool a PC with a 1 foot sample piece of tubing.

Edit: New OCN competition? Shortest functioning loop evar?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Currently working on my radiator flush rig!











Going to do a video on this for my MegaTechPC YouTube channel...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Currently working on my radiator flush rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to do a video on this for my MegaTechPC YouTube channel...


Looks like LazyMan's way


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol, that's the exact video I watched to base my setup on! Works great and cost me way less than what he said on the video...


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, that's the exact video I watched to base my setup on! Works great and cost me way less than what he said on the video...


How much is way less, cause i thought about it even at the 100ish price range


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Well, the pond pump was $20, the filter was $40, the fittings were $12, and the bucket+top was $5. All together with tax it was around $80. I think it was well worth it because now I can flush anything I need to for years to come....


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Well, the pond pump was $20, the filter was $40, the fittings were $12, and the bucket+top was $5. All together with tax it was around $80. I think it was well worth it because now I can flush anything I need to for years to come....


Nice


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Well, the pond pump was $20, the filter was $40, the fittings were $12, and the bucket+top was $5. All together with tax it was around $80. I think it was well worth it because now I can flush anything I need to for years to come....


wow I thought the pump would have been the most expensive part.......


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

They're hella cheap man! The most aggravating part was finding fittings that would accommodate my tubing and the filter...


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> They're hella cheap man! The most aggravating part was finding fittings that would accommodate my tubing and the filter...


I am looking for the filter,(Homedepot.com), but I cant find one that doesn't have bad reviews at that price.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> They're hella cheap man! The most aggravating part was finding fittings that would accommodate my tubing and the filter...
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking for the filter,(Homedepot.com), but I cant find one that doesn't have bad reviews at that price.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that the Reviews are for household water treatment and you're gonna be using it for something entirely different. Also there isn't a filter in existence that does well with warm to hot water and we don't know if it's user error that leads to the bad reviews.









I would just get the one that Majin is using. That one should be more than capable of doing a few Radiator flushes before the filter needs to be replaced.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, like Ceadderman said, the filter specifically states "for cold water use only". Running this setup for 30 mins or so will absolutely remove any of the debris and manufacturer leftovers in any radiator/block/etc. I'll post pics of the results soon....


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Keep in mind that the Reviews are for household water treatment and you're gonna be using it for something entirely different. Also there isn't a filter in existence that does well with warm to hot water and we don't know if it's user error that leads to the bad reviews.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would just get the one that Majin is using. That one should be more than capable of doing a few Radiator flushes before the filter needs to be replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, like Ceadderman said, the filter specifically states "for cold water use only". Running this setup for 30 mins or so will absolutely remove any of the debris and manufacturer leftovers in any radiator/block/etc. I'll post pics of the results soon....


Ok so which one is it, I found one that kinda looks like it, but with the angle in the above photo I am not sure. The one I found has a red button under the fitting connection.


----------



## Fuganater

Here are all the parts I use to filter my rads.

Pump:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002HFTK2/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00

Filter Housing:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VT79VA/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i00

Filters:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AOL0M8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Tubing:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN0OSK/ref=oh_details_o05_s02_i00

Fittings:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_343&products_id=20725

I hope to do a tut one day... just need to get time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

All very similar to Mayhems recommended flush rig...
http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?2506-System-flushing-How-to-clean-a-system-out-naturally-without-the-use-of-chemicals


----------



## andrew grp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This build is really fighting me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm not too happy with the tube color so I'm hoping I get get the pearl blue I used before in this size. I manage to plumb it though:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What are you talking about? The Color of the tube matches incredibly with your emoticon.


----------



## koxoxok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Sexy rig man, that coolant and pump kit is amazing... care to share where you got them or at least what kind they are?


look at my build log. there are more pics and the kit


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrew grp*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> What are you talking about? The Color of the tube matches incredibly with your emoticon.


lol,well spotted, Wer has this







but would prefer this


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrew grp*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> What are you talking about? The Color of the tube matches incredibly with your emoticon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> lol,well spotted, Wer has this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but would prefer this


Another gpu went kaput







. This is the 2nd one that's given out. i'm down to one and i cant run one for surround. I've contacted the seller and I'm trying to work something out









Loop looks good in person; the pics don't do it justice with as the tube looks more purple than blue.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Its about time they gave that radiator a makeover.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you ever wanted to bend copper pipe and didnt know how,now is your chance!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101


----------



## mandrix

Has anyone found a source for that chrome plated copper tubing in the US? My searches didn't really turn up anything useful except in the UK/EU.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andrew grp*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> What are you talking about? The Color of the tube matches incredibly with your emoticon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> lol,well spotted, Wer has this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but would prefer this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Another gpu went kaput
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This is the 2nd one that's given out. i'm down to one and i cant run one for surround. I've contacted the seller and I'm trying to work something out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop looks good in person; the pics don't do it justice with as the tube looks more purple than blue.
Click to expand...

Oh my







I was wondering what happened to your third. Good luck getting ahold of him


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*






I have those rads in the 360 and 120 versions. There nothing flashy about them but they have worked well for me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Swiftec and XSPC need to get on board with the 180/200 Radiator craze. Those Radiators look awesome can't wait to see a review of them.









~Ceadder


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Swiftec and XSPC need to get on board with the 180/200 Radiator craze. Those Radiators look awesome can't wait to see a review of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can tell you this much. They are nice and slim imo. I just started recently doing the water cooling thing but I'm one to study and ask alot of questions as alot of you already know. The 360 and 120 version I have are awesome and they are so quiet also when you set your fans to a lower speed on them. I can't wait to install my new water cooling set-up in my Switch 810 today! I just checked the fedex tracking site and itsays my package is on the truck for delivery. So I hope everything arrives in good shacpe so I can dig in. I'll be starting a build log very soon for this one. It is going to be a Patriotic/Miltary Themed Build. I still haven't decided on a good name for it though. For some reason I can't come up with anything good. If you guys don't mind I'd really apreciate some help on trying to get a good name for this one. Remember it's going to be a Military/Patriotic Themed Switch 810. My plans are making it in Red,White and Blue and maybe getting some kind of military designs airbrushed or decaled onto it. The watercooling it going to have for now white 3/8" i.d. x 5/8" o.d tubing with mixed red and blue Monsoon compression fittings. Also I am planing on doing something custom with the two side panels and the way they open. Maybe something like scissor doors or suicide doors like a gullwing or lambo type door? Not sure yet until I have the case in front of me and see what's feesible. So please guys any help with coming up with a good name will be very deeply apreciated.


----------



## Fuganater

Anyone see that XSPC now has the EX series rads in 140mm??

EX140


EX280


EX420


EX560


----------



## driftingforlife

Question guys. Is there a ASUS 7950 DCII waterblock?


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Question guys. Is there a ASUS 7950 DCII waterblock?


well if were talking the same dcuII then EK has it for sure

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc7950-acetal-en-nickel.html


----------



## driftingforlife

I thought the DCII used a custom PCB like the 7970 DCII.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I thought the DCII used a custom PCB like the 7970 DCII.


They will soon : http://www.techpowerup.com/168806/ASUS-Revises-Radeon-HD-7950-DirectCU-II.html . I have that EK block on my 7950 DCII.


----------



## driftingforlife

Ok, thanks guys. Will have a look at the PCB when I get the card.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyone see that XSPC now has the EX series rads in 140mm??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EX140
> 
> EX280
> 
> EX420
> 
> EX560


Yes,they have been out for a while,I got a 420 for my testbench and I'll probably get one more


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Keep in mind that the Reviews are for household water treatment and you're gonna be using it for something entirely different. Also there isn't a filter in existence that does well with warm to hot water and we don't know if it's user error that leads to the bad reviews.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


They make filters that support up to 180 degrees. Been in commercial construction and maintenance for 30 years and have used them many times in the installation of commercial washer. Try any of the big suppliers, Grainger, Sexauer and even local supply houses.

Theyre more restictive than normal filters but last forever


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyone see that XSPC now has the EX series rads in 140mm??
> EX140
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EX280
> 
> EX420
> 
> EX560


Yeah, I've seen them out for some time. The only gripe is getting some decent fans. I had thought about going with 140s but its definitely more expensive and fan performance is not quite there (for the budget ones) unless you drop some serious cash for the good ones.

Alphacool does make a UT60 series 140mm rads:


----------



## Motopsychojdn

**Question guys. Is there a ASUS 7950 DCII waterblock?**

Why would you want to get rid of the DCII?

If you want water on it, mod a Universal block underneath the shroud, watercooling and the added benefit of the 2x100mm fans as well,









I'll post some pics of my own rig and the cards, (Two 6950 2Gb's I modded) when I get in in the morning
Moto


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motopsychojdn*
> 
> **Question guys. Is there a ASUS 7950 DCII waterblock?**
> Why would you want to get rid of the DCII?
> If you want water on it, mod a Universal block underneath the shroud, watercooling and the added benifit of the 2x100mm fans as well,
> I'll post some pics of my rig and the cards 6950 2Gb's I modded when I get in in the morning
> Moto


http://coolingconfigurator.com/


----------



## Motopsychojdn

I'm unsure as to why you linked the configurator Mad?
Moto


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motopsychojdn*
> 
> **Question guys. Is there a ASUS 7950 DCII waterblock?**
> Why would you want to get rid of the DCII?
> If you want water on it, mod a Universal block underneath the shroud, watercooling and the added benefit of the 2x100mm fans as well,
> I'll post some pics of my own rig and the cards, (Two 6950 2Gb's I modded) when I get in in the morning
> Moto


a lot of people want watercooling not only for the temperature advantages but also for the sound , not to mention a watercooled system looks better fully watercooled than it does with half and half , of course to each their own and it obviously comes down to budget for some people , but I changed out my cards and bought new ones just because they didnt make full cover blocks for my cards , its a preference thing I guess.. ive seen your mod don though and its cool , a better variation of ''the mod''


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motopsychojdn*
> 
> I'm unsure as to why you linked the configurator Mad?
> Moto


I was thinking the same thing. I think he read your post to fast.


----------



## Motopsychojdn

Theres no real noise from the fans as you can turn them right down as you desire in Ccc,
but I agree on the each to their own part, I don't like the looks of bare uni's, and I'm not a fan of fullcover blocks (Price irrelevant) so I had to find my own solution








Moto


----------



## protzman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*






junk, had 2 of these and returned them because fans had to be forced into the holes, like FORCEDDD. tried it with 4 types of fans, also, didnt line up with my case correctly!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motopsychojdn*
> 
> I'm unsure as to why you linked the configurator Mad?
> Moto


Im on my phone







Thought you were asking for a block for that gpu.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motopsychojdn*
> 
> **Question guys. Is there a ASUS 7950 DCII waterblock?**
> Why would you want to get rid of the DCII?
> If you want water on it, mod a Universal block underneath the shroud, watercooling and the added benefit of the 2x100mm fans as well,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some pics of my own rig and the cards, (Two 6950 2Gb's I modded) when I get in in the morning
> Moto


the more you overclock the more heat those vrms and memory are gonna produce - depending on how high you get that memory clock and voltage, air cooling isnt going to cut it anymore. This is where the benefit of the full cover waterblock comes into play.


----------



## simonfredette

yeah it was for the guy looking for his dcII , 7950 , just ended up on the wrong quote ..


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyone see that XSPC now has the EX series rads in 140mm??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EX140
> 
> EX280
> 
> EX420
> 
> EX560


Yes, I've actually had the EX420 for a couple months now.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys any comments or opinions on the Danger Den Rad-Reservoir ?


Absolutely loving it. Solid build quality for an all-acrylic reservoir.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Wermad which motherboard block do you have for your Maximus IV? I was looking at EK's full board in nickel, since that's all it comes in, and I'm wondering if it's any good and if you'd recommend something else.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Wermad which motherboard block do you have for your Maximus IV? I was looking at EK's full board in nickel, since that's all it comes in, and I'm wondering if it's any good and if you'd recommend something else.


I have the ek acetal/nickle one. Most mb blocks are pure looks so I would recommend to look for a used one since paying $130-170 for a new one is a bit too much imo. If you have the money, look into the MIPS one; it looks fantastic. I got mine for $70 used. With a good amount of air flow, you really shouldn't need one but if you happen to see a preowned one, its fun to add it to your loop


----------



## LuckyNumber13

If all else fails and you can't find Chrome plated copper pipe
i would suggest buying the copper pipes then find a local
(or you can even ship it out to them i'm sure) powder coating
shop and get the chrome finish put on it. or they have lots of other
finishes you can do.
i'm doing it to my new CPU waterblock, ram-33 waterblocks
PSU casing and parts of my new case at a local powder coating shop.
http://www.sespowdercoating.com/info.php


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Question guys. Is there a ASUS 7950 DCII waterblock?


According to EK's Cooling Configurator the ASUS HD 7950 DCII should be able to be used with the regular 7950 (EK) water block.
i.e. this one:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















and because most 7970 blocks are compatible with most 7950 (i.e. yours) you have a lot to chose from.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> If all else fails and you can't find Chrome plated copper pipe
> i would suggest buying the copper pipes then find a local
> (or you can even ship it out to them i'm sure) powder coating
> shop and get the chrome finish put on it. or they have lots of other
> finishes you can do.
> i'm doing it to my new CPU waterblock, ram-33 waterblocks
> PSU casing and parts of my new case at a local powder coating shop.
> http://www.sespowdercoating.com/info.php


There's a few diy plating kits. I've called a few local plating companies and its kinda expensive unless you have a friend in the industry or has a diy kit/setup.

I rang up a Chrome plating shop and to get three copper blocks electroless nickel plated was $100 a piece. Might as well buy new nickel blocks at this price.

I've seen some diy kits on ebay for $60 and there's plenty of how-to vids on youtube.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's a few diy plating kits. I've called a few local plating companies and its kinda expensive unless you have a friend in the industry or has a diy kit/setup.
> I rang up a Chrome plating shop and to get three copper blocks electroless nickel plated was $100 a piece. Might as well buy new nickel blocks at this price.
> I've seen some diy kits on ebay for $60 and there's plenty of how-to vids on youtube.





i'm not all that sure about the diy plating but if it's cheaper go for it.
i've wanted to get copper piping myself and then paint/plate the
piping myself using this colour changing paint (goes absolutley
clear at 85*F so any colour or material (chrome shiine) underneath
of the paint shows up. DIY are always the best projects.
http://www.paintwithpearl.com/youtubecolorchange.htm
take a look at the helmet vid to get an idea of what i was talking about.


----------



## skitzab1

how do i talk to a moderator about another moderator ????????????


----------



## driftingforlife

^ Talk to chipp or admin.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> ^ Talk to chipp or admin.


cheers drifting4life just messaged him


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> junk, had 2 of these and returned them because fans had to be forced into the holes, like FORCEDDD. tried it with 4 types of fans, also, didnt line up with my case correctly!


That really isn't the fault of the radiator. Unfortunately there is no standardized spacing for 140mm radiators and cases.


----------



## Motopsychojdn

As promised heres some pics of my Rig,
a slightly modded Dragon rider,

On the desk, ambient temp sensor is taped to the wall above all pretty-like, the ducting runs the tubing and wiring to the box,









Inside the Radbox, looped back on itself to cycle/bleed, both the box and main rig can run independently, makes bleeding/moving it so much easier









Cards blocked up and reinstalled prior to filling/bleeding (Which is why the cpu fan isn't here in this pic)
res is cable tied to hold in place whilst I rotate the hell out of it to bleed

















Water temp sensor modded into one of the T-Viruses endcaps,









And the fan is back in place over the Rasa block,









I'm currently working on incorporating a fire extinguisher reservoir mod (already made, just waiting on other things)

and mainspowered chiller box into my loop, I'll also be adding the Gf's Pc to feed from the chillerbox as well
Moto


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motopsychojdn*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> As promised heres some pics of my Rig,
> a slightly modded Dragon rider,
> On the desk, ambient temp sensor is taped to the wall above all pretty-like, the ducting runs the tubing and wiring to the box,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside the Radbox, looped back on itself to cycle/bleed, both the box and main rig can run independently, makes bleeding/moving it so much easier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cards blocked up and reinstalled prior to filling/bleeding (Which is why the cpu fan isn't here in this pic)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water temp sensor modded into one of the T-Viruses endcaps,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the fan is back in place over the Rasa block,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently working on incorporating a fire extinguisher reservoir mod (already made, just waiting on other things)
> and mainspowered chiller box into my loop, I'll also be adding the Gf's Pc to feed from the chillerbox as well
> Moto


Interesting mod to the GPUs. EK Universal bocks? Did you make the Rad box yourself? Looks like 1/2" wood.


----------



## johnko1

I just received mcp655.One step closer to finish!!!!


----------



## Motopsychojdn

Yup, I've a set of worklogs over on Toms if I'm allowed to link them?
20mm mdf donated from my nightshift, the fan grill is the mesh from the Riders sidepanel cut in half, one half each side, and yes, EK VGA Supreme coppers, linked at the rear of the cards next to the sata leads
it could be prettier, more sanding and painting etc but thats for another day








Moto


----------



## george_orm

hi, big question before i buy tonight,
XSPC Ex360..... or Koolance Copper Core CU1020V High Flow 3x120mm Radiator

i dont know which is better ? please going to be running them with 1350rpm fans,
help please ?


----------



## derickwm

The XSPC EX series are great radiators, especially for 1200-1500 rpm fans









Currently using an EX480 with 1200rpm fans and it's quite wonderful.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> hi, big question before i buy tonight,
> XSPC Ex360..... or Koolance Copper Core CU1020V High Flow 3x120mm Radiator
> i dont know which is better ? please going to be running them with 1350rpm fans,
> help please ?


for this rpm range,definitely pick the ex260


----------



## george_orm

with pure performance as the goal, we u are argreeing the Ex360 over the kollance 1020v ??


----------



## derickwm

Yes.


----------



## Motopsychojdn

+1, I run 2k Rpm Fans on my two Ex360's in pushpull at lower than 1k, very, very quiet and great cooling,
Moto


----------



## smke

here is my case an't figured out what to change yet


----------



## george_orm

going to keep asking questions
are the Arctic Cooling 120mm F12 PWM Fan's a good choice for radiators, (ex360)
like the pwm chaining feature, need to keep it cheap, no more than $13 per fan, and im buying form this list : http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9_510&vk_sort=1

help please ....


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> going to keep asking questions
> are the Arctic Cooling 120mm F12 PWM Fan's a good choice for radiators, (ex360)
> like the pwm chaining feature, need to keep it cheap, no more than $13 per fan, and im buying form this list : http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9_510&vk_sort=1
> help please ....


check its static pressure first,I think this is a major factor when you pick fans for radiator/heatsink

Also check xspc fans,the 1650rpm version.
juggolo made a video on youtube,testing theese against gentle typhoons ap-15 and the difference was about 1c on core.If you put some error margin,the xspc are really good for their price.

Here's the video


----------



## george_orm

they would be the fan of my choice but i cant get them from the shop i use









now its a choice,
same price,

19db 69cfm 2000rpm - CoolerMaster 120mm SickleFlow ---
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=8135

<20db 61cfm 1500rpm --Xigmatek XLF-F1253 120mm
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=11037

which would u take ?

ps i dont really tust the db readings, well i trust them as much as i could use the fans to fly away


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> If all else fails and you can't find Chrome plated copper pipe
> i would suggest buying the copper pipes then find a local
> (or you can even ship it out to them i'm sure) powder coating
> shop and get the chrome finish put on it. or they have lots of other
> finishes you can do.
> i'm doing it to my new CPU waterblock, ram-33 waterblocks
> PSU casing and parts of my new case at a local powder coating shop.
> http://www.sespowdercoating.com/info.php


Where I live there's no powder coating services anywhere near I'm aware of, and my budget wouldn't allow expensive services. Now, if I had an old oven I wouldn't be adverse to doing it myself if I could get the materials cheap enough. I figure the chrome tubing would actually be the cheaper route, if I could get it locally.
But thanks for the ideas!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> they would be the fan of my choice but i cant get them from the shop i use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now its a choice,
> same price,
> 19db 69cfm 2000rpm - CoolerMaster 120mm SickleFlow ---
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=8135
> <20db 61cfm 1500rpm --Xigmatek XLF-F1253 120mm
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=11037
> which would u take ?
> ps i dont really tust the db readings, well i trust them as much as i could use the fans to fly away


Being Australian I will suggest

Gammods

They sell the XSPC stock fans

He is as good if not better then PCCG. He will also get anything you want, from any of the manufacturers.


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> junk, had 2 of these and returned them because fans had to be forced into the holes, like FORCEDDD. tried it with 4 types of fans, also, didnt line up with my case correctly!






I don't think it's really the radiators fault much that happened to you. I say that because fan mounting hole space varies so much from one brand to the next. I have has cases that certain brand fans would absolutly not fit without drilling new holes but other brand fans would drop right in. J/w what brand fans were you using? I just want to make sure I don't grab some fans that are not going to fit. Just to avoid the headaches and the time wasted having to send them back and replacing them. I've used stock NZXT and CoolerMaster fans and also Kingwin led,Nzxt led,NZXT FZ,Larkooler,AeroCool Shark Edition and a few other no name fans and luckily still haven't had an issue.


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*






Uh-Oh here comes the leak testing. I love how those cyndrilical reservoirs look in action







B NEGATIVE that rig is coming out to be a beast. I wish I could afford one of those builds. Maybe for X-Mas or if not next spring I'll be able to afford a crazy build like that. But for now I have the Switch 810 I started yesterday and the Pink Cancer Tribute Build I'm doing after this one in honor of my mother-in-law and all the others who have had to deal with this killer.


----------



## chino1974

Guys can anyone help me out with a few suggestions for a cool name for my new rig please? It is on it's way to being a Military/Patriotic Themed Switch 810. It is going to be in white with red and blue accents or White with red nad Black accents haven't fully decided on that yet. It is going to have the standard issue custom water loop with a 360 up top 240 (hopefully in the front and a 120 on the bottom. The rest I'll save for the build log once I get a chance hopefully tonight to sit down and get it started. But like I said I'm having trouble naming this one and am hoping you guys can throw some suggestions my way. If I do use something someone helps me with I will make sure that person gets their credit for helping me out


----------



## george_orm

yer check gammods out and its great and all but,
i have done business with pccg before so and they are a little closer in melb. im in bendigo,
may go with them next time would love to be getting a 560 rad but money and stuff,
still deciding between the collermaster and the Xigmatek

ur input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## johnko1

guys do you think that mosfet blocks for sb/ib is just for looks?Beacause I just touched the heatsink of my M5G and it was pretty warm...
Do the M4G waterblocks work on M5G?


----------



## bundymania

Do ya like my aluminum background ?







I do !


----------



## Fuganater

^^^ Do want!


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> yer check gammods out and its great and all but,
> i have done business with pccg before so and they are a little closer in melb. im in bendigo,
> may go with them next time would love to be getting a 560 rad but money and stuff,
> still deciding between the collermaster and the Xigmatek
> 
> ur input would be greatly appreciated.


I actually had each of those fans mounted on a rad once for comparison. They both blew about the same through the rad but the sickleflow was louder. I'd go with the xiggy but be warned, its bright! Looks awesome though!

+1 for GAMMODS too for future reference. Best bloke to deal with ever and postage is usually really good too!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> yer check gammods out and its great and all but,
> i have done business with pccg before so and they are a little closer in melb. im in bendigo,
> may go with them next time would love to be getting a 560 rad but money and stuff,
> still deciding between the collermaster and the Xigmatek
> ur input would be greatly appreciated.


I have only had and used the CoolerMaster 120mm Silent Blue LED Fan's they move lots of air. But that is what makes them noisy in my opinion.

Never had the Xigmatek.

I am currently using BitFenix Spectre Pro 120mm Black Tinted Blue LED Fan's which are amazing. Very quiet, but like I say above the CM's are moving tons of air.


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I have only had and used the CoolerMaster 120mm Silent Blue LED Fan's they move lots of air. But that is what makes them noisy in my opinion.
> 
> Never had the Xigmatek.
> 
> I am currently using BitFenix Spectre Pro 120mm Black Tinted Blue LED Fan's which are amazing. Very quiet, but like I say above the CM's are moving tons of air.


The CMs move heaps of air but seem to have a low static pressure. They don't make very good rad fans in my opinion.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do ya like my aluminum background ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do !


Looks just like the one I have. Haven't gone over 40C with this block.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*
> 
> The CMs move heaps of air but seem to have a low static pressure. They don't make very good rad fans in my opinion.


The Silent Blue ones show a static pressure of >3mm H2O

The highest I could find.

But agree they are noisy and not ideal for quiet / performance.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do ya like my aluminum background ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do !


Now that is sexy


----------



## Motopsychojdn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Interesting mod to the GPUs. EK Universal bocks? Did you make the Rad box yourself? Looks like 1/2" wood.


Well no-ones said anything about not posting other sites links so heres the build/mod logs for the Main rig, Radbox and gfx cards, radbox was built to accomodate the gfx cards extra heat so those mods were done side by side,

Main build

Radbox build

Gfx cards mod (short version with link to full log)

If I am breaking any Ocn protocols I apologise and will of course remove the links but I can P.m. them if anyone wants to have a read
Moto


----------



## jagz

See you guys soon ^_^


----------



## Motopsychojdn

Mmm, white tubing, black case,








Moto


----------



## matan11

Little Teaser from my 600T:



For more Informations and Pictures pls check my Build log.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1268199/rebuild-log-600t-white-with-360rad


----------



## Motopsychojdn

I like the way you deal with the 20+4pin cable








subbed to follow your progress
Moto


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*
> 
> The CMs move heaps of air but seem to have a low static pressure. They don't make very good rad fans in my opinion.


I have twenty and my temps are have been awesome. I love their voltage range as you can drop them super low. At full power, all are super noisy, I keep them at 5-7v and the psu fan is louder then all. I'm using 12 right now on two sr1s but I have a 240 and a 120 rads coming in so they'll be outfitted with with push/pull R4s


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have twenty and my temps are have been awesome. I love their voltage range as you can drop them super low. At full power, all are super noisy, I keep them at 5-7v and the psu fan is louder then all. I'm using 12 right now on two sr1s but I have a 240 and a 120 rads coming in so they'll be outfitted with with push/pull R4s


In that case I'm gonna say its just the sickleflows that arn't great. Mine had horrible voltage ranges and I ended up just running them flat because of it. I'd love to see a direct comparrison between an R4 and a sickleflow now...


----------



## Fuganater

Went back to a single loop.

From this:









To this:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*
> 
> In that case I'm gonna say its just the sickleflows that arn't great. Mine had horrible voltage ranges and I ended up just running them flat because of it. I'd love to see a direct comparrison between an R4 and a sickleflow now...


Mine are sickle









I had one bad one arrived but I got it replaced quickly (amazon).


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Went back to a single loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> From this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this:


What is that cut at the drive bays for?


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Playing with some spare gear


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Went back to a single loop.
> From this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this:


hey m8, you mind sharing how you went about bending that acrylic for that psu cover?


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Playing with some spare gear


That's a nice motherboard to be spare gear... I have the same board as my main gear =P


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

It was a motherboard in my MAIN rig that died.
RMA. and rebuilt another system
I don't need it anymore.
I'm using it to test my 3770ks

I have... ALOT of spare gear.
Watercooling gear.
5 CPU Blocks.
9 Pumps.
5 GPU blocks.
A large amount of Fittings.
6 Rads.

And have some motherboards


----------



## derickwm

You need to start folding


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You need to start folding


hahahaha.
I've considered it. I fold part time on my main rig.

My test bench when its being used.
$100 in fittings
$40 for the pump
35 for the block
$30 120.3 ThermoChill rad


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> It was a motherboard in my MAIN rig that died.
> RMA. and rebuilt another system
> I don't need it anymore.
> I'm using it to test my 3770ks
> I have... ALOT of spare gear.
> Watercooling gear.
> 5 CPU Blocks.
> 9 Pumps.
> 5 GPU blocks.
> A large amount of Fittings.
> 6 Rads.
> And have some motherboards


Whoa... I'm tipping my Mt Dew to you Sir.

Gigabyte fan? I'm thinking of making the jump to the X79-UD3 so I can get the 3960x and some pcie 3.0 sweetness. The review on anandtech.com was a little rough. Any experiences?


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Whoa... I'm tipping my Mt Dew to you Sir.
> Gigabyte fan? I'm thinking of making the jump to the X79-UD3 so I can get the 3960x and some pcie 3.0 sweetness. The review on anandtech.com was a little rough. Any experiences?


Always loyal to Gigabyte








No experience on X79
I'm honestly wanting the UD7 in the market place though.

I just need to get the funds gahaha


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> It was a motherboard in my MAIN rig that died.
> RMA. and rebuilt another system
> I don't need it anymore.
> I'm using it to test my 3770ks
> I have... ALOT of spare gear.
> Watercooling gear.
> 5 CPU Blocks.
> 9 Pumps.
> 5 GPU blocks.
> A large amount of Fittings.
> 6 Rads.
> And have some motherboards
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pretty fancy coffee cup on the wood stand there...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Whoa... I'm tipping my Mt Dew to you Sir.
> Gigabyte fan? I'm thinking of making the jump to the X79-UD3 so I can get the 3960x and some pcie 3.0 sweetness. The review on anandtech.com was a little rough. Any experiences?
> 
> 
> 
> Always loyal to Gigabyte
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No experience on X79
> I'm honestly wanting the UD7 in the market place though.
> 
> I just need to get the funds gahaha
Click to expand...

Trade me for mine!


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Trade me for mine!


What are you wanting?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Pretty fancy coffee cup on the wood stand there...


Nice nickel plated coffee cup


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Always loyal to Gigabyte
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No experience on X79
> I'm honestly wanting the UD7 in the market place though.
> I just need to get the funds gahaha


I keep going back and forth between the ASUS Crosshair V and The Gigabyte UD7 (AMD)


----------



## derickwm




----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

OH MAN. If I had a Ref 7970 I dun think I'd be trading it.
And seeing how much they go for in AUS


I'd just buy the board


----------



## golfergolfer

Just finished my Core 1000







Come take a look at the build log if you like what you see







Linky













I have been waiting for sooo long to join this


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> OH MAN. If I had a Ref 7970 I dun think I'd be trading it.
> And seeing how much they go for in AUS
> 
> I'd just buy the board


I'm sure he's trading the board and RAM for the 7970. It's a great deal really.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'm sure he's trading the board and RAM for the 7970. It's a great deal really.


I know it is









golfergolfer

That is amazing.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> OH MAN. If I had a Ref 7970 I dun think I'd be trading it.
> And seeing how much they go for in AUS
> 
> 
> I'd just buy the board


I forgot you were in Aus


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Always loyal to Gigabyte
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No experience on X79
> I'm honestly wanting the UD7 in the market place though.
> I just need to get the funds gahaha


What would be lost with the purchase of the cheaper X79 UD3? So far I haven't seen any major differences in end user experience with mid-range motherboards vs high end motherboards but I'm willing to bet you would know better than I would.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> What would be lost with the purchase of the cheaper X79 UD3? So far I haven't seen any major differences in end user experience with mid-range motherboards vs high end motherboards but I'm willing to bet you would know better than I would.


Just going to use it in a daily?
I never said the UD3 was a bad board.









Its pretty stong


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished my Core 1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come take a look at the build log if you like what you see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Linky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been waiting for sooo long to join this


like what you did with the fans for sure ( in the front of the case







)


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just finished my Core 1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come take a look at the build log if you like what you see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Linky
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been waiting for sooo long to join this


That's pretty clean... I like the simplicity of it. Why do you have the tube looping around from under the GPU to the bottom of the cpu block rather than the straight route from the top port on the gpu block ?


----------



## derickwm

Fix that CPU->GPU tubing bud...


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Fix that CPU->GPU tubing bud...


Could have used the top half of the block


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Just going to use it in a daily?
> I never said the UD3 was a bad board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its pretty stong


Just trying to find the right balance between performance and the aesthetic I'm trying to create... honestly, what I have already outperforms my "needs"... but it's not always about needs. =]

I don't know why there aren't more simple black motherboards on the market.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Just trying to find the right balance between performance and the aesthetic I'm trying to create... honestly, what I have already outperforms my "needs"... but it's not always about needs. =]
> *I don't know why there aren't more simple black motherboards on the market*.


Agreed


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Fix that CPU->GPU tubing bud...
> 
> 
> 
> Could have used the top half of the block
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was referring to. Would look soooooo much better.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> That's pretty clean... I like the simplicity of it. Why do you have the tube looping around from under the GPU to the bottom of the cpu block rather than the straight route from the top port on the gpu block ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Fix that CPU->GPU tubing bud...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Could have used the top half of the block


Looks like he's using 1/2x3/4 and those are a pita to fit on ek blocks (and most blocks tbh). Reason why I'm running a slightly smaller size w/ the same tube wall thickness (3/8x5/8)


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> I know it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> golfergolfer
> That is amazing.


Thanks so much means alot to me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> like what you did with the fans for sure ( in the front of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> That's pretty clean... I like the simplicity of it. Why do you have the tube looping around from under the GPU to the bottom of the cpu block rather than the straight route from the top port on the gpu block ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Fix that CPU->GPU tubing bud...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Could have used the top half of the block


Lol so here is the problem... I originally had it that way but it leaked... The reason for that is my barb part of the fitting fits no problem but it is the outside compression part that gets stuck between the barb and the PCB of my GPU. So the fix that I found for this was to use a spacer that was included with the GPU, although I was able to get the fitting on really quite tight there was still a leak from it. Not enough of my fitting had made it into the block so I had to use the bottom ports which dont have a PCB in the way to route it.

EDIT: To wermad I am actually using 3/8in X 5/8in but the fitting still doesn't fit on to the block with out the interference from the PCB


----------



## derickwm

Just to let you watercoolers know... I'm giving away some AP-15s


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like he's using 1/2x3/4 and those are a pita to fit on ek blocks (and most blocks tbh). Reason why I'm running a slightly smaller size w/ the same tube wall thickness (3/8x5/8)


1 45 degree fitting fixes that


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> 1 45 degree fitting fixes that


Yup, an angled adapter will fix that.

I know about the Monsoon angled fittings (90° and 45°) though i'm unsure if they have been released yet.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> What is that cut at the drive bays for?


I was using a 280 rad originally and I had to cut it to get it to fit right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> hey m8, you mind sharing how you went about bending that acrylic for that psu cover?


I just used a heat gun and my hands. Clamp it down to a table, heat where you wan the bend to be and slowly push down on it.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

If only he lived in AUS.
He could have one of my spares hahah.


----------



## Lazy Bear

OK listen.


























It's not pink.

I swear.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> going to keep asking questions
> are the Arctic Cooling 120mm F12 PWM Fan's a good choice for radiators, (ex360)
> like the pwm chaining feature, need to keep it cheap, no more than $13 per fan, and im buying form this list : http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9_510&vk_sort=1
> help please ....
> 
> 
> 
> check its static pressure first,I think this is a major factor when you pick fans for radiator/heatsink
> 
> Also check xspc fans,the 1650rpm version.
> juggolo made a video on youtube,testing theese against gentle typhoons ap-15 and the difference was about 1c on core.If you put some error margin,the xspc are really good for their price.
> 
> Here's the video
Click to expand...

I'm not saying the XSPC fans are bad, but they are close to the GT-15's when it comes to performance. The reason he is only getting that small of a difference is because of the small load on the rad, if you put a GPU in that loop it would be bigger. I own both the XSPC fans and GT-15, the GT's at 100% are much quieter, and when running at about 1400-1500 rmps they perform the about the same as the XSPC fans running at 100%. Mine was tested on a i5 750 running at 4.0 at about 1.45v with a 5870 running on the same loop (RX120 plus a RS240, Rasa block and EK fullcover block) with three threads of Prime95 and Furmark running. My over all temps with the fans running at 100% where about 5C-8C cooler on the CPU and GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not pink.
> 
> I swear.


That block looks pink to me


----------



## superericla

My 3820 is running at 5GHz with temps under 60C. Should I try pushing the clock higher?


----------



## derickwm

Yes.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> My 3820 is running at 5GHz with temps under 60C. Should I try pushing the clock higher?


You are on OCN, what do you think?

Hell yes, push it, till it falls over


----------



## derickwm

I'll be doing another suicide run tonight with my Xeons, join me









After breaking 5 last night I wanna try to break 5.2


----------



## superericla

Sounds fun. I got my voltages down to ~1.4v and recommended max voltage for water cooling on SB-E is ~1.5v so I could definitely squeeze a bit more out.


----------



## derickwm

Damn... you have a nice 3820


----------



## wermad

I couldn't get my old one past 4.665, but then I again, I kept ht on and I didn't boot in to a stripped version of os.


----------



## superericla

Just did a quick and easy overclock. I simply jumped up the core voltage to 1.5v and the CPU frequency to 5160MHz and successfully booted. Time to go higher.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just did a quick and easy overclock. I simply jumped up the core voltage to 1.5v and the CPU frequency to 5160MHz and successfully booted. Time to go higher.


That's a good chip









which board you using?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's a good chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which board you using?


It's an MSI X79A-GD65 (8D). I just raised it to 5203MHz on the same voltage, now to go further. I just hope my RAM doesn't hold me back.

Edit: Passed the 10 point mark on cinebench.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It's an MSI X79A-GD65 (8D). I just raised it to 5203MHz on the same voltage, now to go further. I just hope my RAM doesn't hold me back.
> Edit: Passed the 10 point mark on cinebench.


Keep going


----------



## superericla

Went up to 5.3GHz and bluescreened, seems to be a RAM issue. I'm considering running 5.2GHz as a 24/7 overclock.


----------



## derickwm

Back down to 5.2 and prime it


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Back down to 5.2 and prime it


Working on that right now actually. Seems stable so far.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Working on that right now actually. Seems stable so far.


Come back in 8 to 12 hours


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Back down to 5.2 and prime it


this. 30 minutes is pretty good imho; I don't see a need to torture your cpu for several hours to prove it can run prime.

What are your temps? 1.5v is a lot for a 24/7 setup. 5.0 w/ 1.4v seems to be a good spot to settle for a 24/7 setup if you can hit that.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> this. 30 minutes is pretty good imho; I don't see a need to torture your cpu for several hours to prove it can run prime.
> What are your temps? 1.5v is a lot for a 24/7 setup. 5.0 w/ 1.4v seems to be a good spot to settle for a 24/7 setup if you can hit that.


Temps are still only around 65-70C which is acceptable. I'll likely back down to 5GHz for 24/7 use though.


----------



## derickwm

Eh overclocks are funny. I've folded for 6 hours on a new overclock before, then get a random BSOD









I'm back up to 5.0... 5.2 here I come


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Eh overclocks are funny. I've folded for 6 hours on a new overclock before, then get a random BSOD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm back up to 5.0... 5.2 here I come


Go go go.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah all this talk about Clocking reminds me, I need to stop Folding for a day and run P95 to see how stable this CPU is.

If it passes then I'm pulling it and giving it a thrashing to get that coating off it. If it doesn't it's going back to AMD. Man I love AMDs' RMA process. Super duper easy. I have to say they take care of their own that's for sure.









Once I get the 1100T lapped I'm gonna get in the BIOS and flog the dog.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah all this talk about Clocking reminds me, I need to stop Folding for a day and run P95 to see how stable this CPU is.
> If it passes then I'm pulling it and giving it a thrashing to get that coating off it. If it doesn't it's going back to AMD. Man I love AMDs' RMA process. Super duper easy. I have to say they take care of their own that's for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the 1100T lapped I'm gonna get in the BIOS and flog the dog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's funny you mention lapping. I lapped my 3820 a week before the motherboard got here, didn't even know if it worked.









Also, my TIM right now is an odd mix between TX-4 and leftover bits of Indigo Xtreme (reflow failed so they're sending me a new one). It's surprisingly effective.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah all this talk about Clocking reminds me, I need to stop Folding for a day and run P95 to see how stable this CPU is.
> If it passes then I'm pulling it and giving it a thrashing to get that coating off it. If it doesn't it's going back to AMD. Man I love AMDs' RMA process. Super duper easy. I have to say they take care of their own that's for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the 1100T lapped I'm gonna get in the BIOS and flog the dog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's funny you mention lapping. I lapped my 3820 a week before the motherboard got here, didn't even know if it worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my TIM right now is an odd mix between TX-4 and leftover bits of Indigo Xtreme (reflow failed so they're sending me a new one). It's surprisingly effective.
Click to expand...

I'd say you really lucked out. But it's a good thing you did lapp it from what I've seen about heat issues with the 32nm technology.









lol I still have my new tube of G751 sitting in a box. Stuff is crazy expensive but hella worth it. I dunno I might even spread it out on the next go round to see if I can lower my temps a bit. I doubt it considering that my average temp is between 41-44c under full Core load while Folding. Still, it's worth a look.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'd say you really lucked out. But it's a good thing you did lapp it from what I've seen about heat issues with the 32nm technology.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol I still have my new tube of G751 sitting in a box. Stuff is crazy expensive but hella worth it. I dunno I might even spread it out on the next go round to see if I can lower my temps a bit. I doubt it considering that my average temp is between 41-44c under full Core load while Folding. Still, it's worth a look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Very true. One thing I like about AMD CPUs is the lower temps they typically run at. Of course, their "danger zone" is much lower as well so it makes sense.


----------



## mandrix

I have a separate post for this but it's not getting much love. Have any of you guys had a Swiftech MCP655 torn down completely? I put a Bitspower top and dress kit on it, went to fire up my loop last night to leak test and the pump does not work. (yes, has water and power) so I pulled off the pump top/dress housing and hit the power and still not turning, although the red shaft that adjusts the speed fell out.
So, I can't see what this red shaft is supposed to be attached to? Looks like it may have been attached on the side of the shaft to something as there is a jagged edge on one side of the cross shaped shaft, if that makes sense. I haven't torn it all the way down in case Sidewinder want's to replace it. But in case they will not replace it I'll go ahead and fully disassemble it to see what's what. But I'm guessing it's just dead, dunno. Next time I may just get the -B version with rpm signal.

EDIT: Pump running, had pinched wire. Still need to figure out this adjustment that fell out but good to go for now.


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> _http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/8397/img9067q.jpg[/img]
> http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/3447/img9070my.jpg[/img]
> http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3528/img9065t.jpg[/img]_


That stuff looks like a pain to work with.


----------



## Mayhem

tbh this is just being tested but were still along way off a consumer product


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do tell how it performs!!


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motopsychojdn*
> 
> Mmm, white tubing, black case,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moto


yeah, I love the white and black combo. I thought I had a pretty sweet black case/white tube getup but hardly anyone commented on it.... i guess because its an "older" platform :/ . older platforms aren't cool


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Do tell how it performs!!


For sure.... i'm curious


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Do tell how it performs!!


This...I wish Martin woulda stayed in the game long enough to review this piece of kit.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> It was a motherboard in my MAIN rig that died.
> RMA. and rebuilt another system
> I don't need it anymore.
> I'm using it to test my 3770ks
> I have... ALOT of spare gear.
> Watercooling gear.
> 5 CPU Blocks.
> 9 Pumps.
> 5 GPU blocks.
> A large amount of Fittings.
> 6 Rads.
> And have some motherboards
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that an insulated EP-45? Ill take that off your hands, i mean its the least I can do to help you free up some space








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> yeah, I love the white and black combo. I thought I had a pretty sweet black case/white tube getup but hardly anyone commented on it.... i guess because its an "older" platform :/ . older platforms aren't cool


This build is awesome! Dont get discouraged, but your right, just by putting "quad SLI, 3960X" in your build log title gets you 20k more views automatically


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Do tell how it performs!!
> 
> 
> 
> This...I wish Martin woulda stayed in the game long enough to review this piece of kit.
Click to expand...

This Martin?

http://martinsliquidlab.org/

He isn't testing anymore?


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> This Martin?
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/
> He isn't testing anymore?


Amigo, read the very top first post on the front page you linked to. He's moving on.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> Amigo, read the very top first post on the front page you linked to. He's moving on.












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> his site is now closed to new testing and reviews.
> 
> I spent about 5 years learning and testing in this little hobby and have learned a HUGE amount. Water cooling is one of those things that is very modular and wide open in possibilities. When I started testing it was also one where very little was very well tested and the forums were full of all sorts of what I would call very BAD FANBOI myth. I would hear things like, oh that brand radiator sucks, you should trade in your two x brand triples for one y brand and you'll get better performance. I would also hear things like your two radiators in series are too much restriction, you NEED another pump to push through that. All of this I took as gospel and made purchasing decisions that were very very wrong. After researching where many of these things came from, I soon realized it was mostly fabricated and simply accepted opinion from people repeating things they have heard yet there was little to no science or support. I wasted money on things like upgrading fans and doubling up on pumps only to be left puzzled when my results were the same or worse than before. Having come from the civil engineering field, I was instantly interested in the hydraulics side of things and started to experiment with flow rate and pump testing using very rudimentary home built tools. I wanted to have an ability to "Design" a water cooling loop with good data and enjoyed the discussion and helping my fellow water cooling friends. I also very much enjoyed the craftsmanship required in early water cooling since there was very little that didn't require some elbow grease tuning to make it all work. This hydraulics testing expanded from using gravity water column manometers I had hanging in my back yard and bucket to eventually buying flow rate meters and digital manometers that further improved my ability to test. At that point testing was pretty exciting for me and had that "Mythbuster" appeal along with being something entirely new for me and I was constantly learning how do things better. I also learned many things hydraulically about pump testing errors such as the need to test inlet vs outlet pressure differential to eliminate static pressure errors and the need to test pumps with good variable power supplies. This pump testing and pressure drop testing of blocks was the foundation of what started my excel spreadsheet work as I enjoyed being able to estimate pumping needs. Later this pump/pressure drop testing adventure expanded to testing thermal performance of CPU block, GPU blocks, and radiators. I also gained an interest in better understanding noise and begin testing fans in a pursuit of the ultimate fan and carried that over into testing pump noise. I did this for about 2 years or so, took about a 6 month break, and then started up again for another year. Unfortunately all of this madness and testing takes a HUGE time commitment and it's not long before people were sending me parts to test and review that I didn't even ask for. It was all an extremely valuable experience and I am happy that I was able to share my testing stories with you via this blog, my previous site, and forums.
> 
> That brings us to 2011-12 in which I was experiencing both a second burnout, a new more time demanding management job, and the first of some age awareness inspiring health issues. The burnout I've been through before, and I've worked many different demanding jobs, but I've never really been one to have much for health issues before. I'm working through those with success after a couple of surgeries, but it made me take a step back and think twice about time priorities and I've simply been putting way too much time toward this effort helping others and missing out on more important things. I've also explored most areas of testing by now and testing has become mostly just routine work with only a very minor bit of fun checking out new products. Water cooling has also become more mainstream and lost that tight nit feel where people appreciate others work and help each other out. It's sort of like plowing the snow on your neighbors sidewalk, at first they thank you with the Mrs. finest apple pie, then they wave once in a while when not too busy, 5 years later someone else moves in and they complain with irritation when you missed a spot causing them to get their favorite slippers wet&#8230; I've now seen too many people come at me with wet slippers.
> 
> So&#8230;5 years have gone by, I've probably tested and reviewed over 100 products now, destroyed three CPU platforms, ruined many fan controllers, burned up a few pumps, nearly caught the house on fire with testing heaters, killed a power supply, and pretty well satisfied my curiosities about experimenting with various test methods. I will never consider my testing perfect or absolute, but I feel I've accomplished my goals in learning and helping others. I have now seen many generations of parts and people come and go and ready to move on myself. I wouldn't give any of it back, but the chapter has closed for now and not interested in doing any more.
> 
> I have had several site supporters donate money to keep this site hosting going and I will use that to keep the lights on, but that is all. My intent is to retain the website hosting through February 2013. Cheers! Martin


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> This Martin?
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/
> He isn't testing anymore?
> 
> 
> 
> Amigo, read the very top first post on the front page you linked to. He's moving on.
Click to expand...

Man, I never even saw that. I kept checking for updates every now and then. He will be missed, I loved his work, but you do need to look out for number one.


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


Me likey likey


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> yeah, I love the white and black combo. I thought I had a pretty sweet black case/white tube getup but hardly anyone commented on it.... i guess because its an "older" platform :/ . older platforms aren't cool


I know how you feel,i have a SR 2 and no one is interested in that bit of my build.....
The loop gets all the love.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know how you feel,i have a SR 2 and no one is interested in that bit of my build.....
> The loop gets all the love.


In my opinion, the SR-2 is a much more interesting build than the SR-X. I like your build very much so far, everything,from the hardware to the water loop.


----------



## derickwm

What an SR-2 & SR-X build?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What an SR-2 & SR-X build?


I like the SR-X, just don't get why you can't overclock.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I like the SR-X, just don't get why you can't overclock.


Presuming you aren't being rhetorical...

Because you need two QPI links. The only chips with 2 QPI links are Xeons. Xeons are locked multipliers, and BCLK is tied down due to the BCLK timing everything. 1366 Xeons was the same except the BCLK didn't drive absolutely everything on the board.


----------



## derickwm

Skripka I miss you


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


That is looking awesome


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Is that an insulated EP-45? Ill take that off your hands, i mean its the least I can do to help you free up some space


Yes it is and you wish









I've just bought a q6600 for some boints








I've got a few other 775 CPUs I picked up for the bot.
I has some binning to do


----------



## RKTGX95

Hey, does anyone know if the Phobya 200mm Rad mount holes (on any of the plates) aligns with the Antec Big Boy 200mm ? (from the 1100 case)


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


funky


----------



## gliggo

Rebuilding , getting there slowly


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

DISARRAY!!!!!!!











By the way, how come none of you guys warned me about how many things go wrong when trying to build a water cooling rig??? I've run into snag after snag it seems. Didn't have all of the right screws I needed to mount the fans/grills to the radiators. Didn't have the right brackets to mount the reservoir. At this rate my build won't be finished by Halloween!!

Still having fun though!


----------



## derickwm

Lol we try not to talk about all the hardships









I will admit, my SR-2 is the first WC'ing build that went smoothly.


----------



## superericla

I'm almost definitely going to get a second EX420 now. I just need to find someone selling one...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> DISARRAY!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, how come none of you guys warned me about how many things go wrong when trying to build a water cooling rig??? I've run into snag after snag it seems. Didn't have all of the right screws I needed to mount the fans/grills to the radiators. Didn't have the right brackets to mount the reservoir. At this rate my build won't be finished by Halloween!!
> Still having fun though!


I've been to the hardware store probably 6 times in the last few months to buy 6/32 screws of all lengths. Cut down a lot of 3" to 2.x" for various fan/radiator setups.








Right now my fingers are killing me from tightening/loosening/moving/ tightening all these compression fittings. I broke one of the Frozen Q res mounts.







Glad I bought some good zip ties.








Can't get my pump to prime with my original horizontal frozenQ reservoir setup.It's a weird setup I guess but the video block must be pretty darn restrictive as it won't feed the pump enough to prime it. I'm getting there though and learning a lot about putting together a custom loop, and how wiring things wrong will bite you. I haven't even fired up the mobo yet (in this build). I've been taking my time and working through everything including more case mods to come.


----------



## superericla

Good news, the Indigo Xtreme single pack (which I tested recently) is now on sale for $9-10 (depending on socket).


----------



## rwmagee90

Hi everyone... I am new here and I have been lurking for a while... I just thought I would post some pics of my second build and my first ever watercooling build...

Let me know what ya think...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'm almost definitely going to get a second EX420 now. I just need to find someone selling one...


I see you have the S810. Where you going to fit a 2nd 420? External mount?

Mod the front?


----------



## Aventadoor

Yo!

I'm looking to upgrade my system in a way so It can be more silent!
Currently I got Noiseblocker 3HS and AP-15 fans which Im thinking about "downgrading" to the Corsair SP120 Quiet Editon fans.
Then upgrading from the Koolance RP4xxx - Bitspower Dual D5 top with the new Bitspower tank!
You think that will be an improvement? Any other suggestions?

I currently run the pumps at 2 & 4, cause one off the pumps seems to make more noise


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebuilding , getting there slowly


It would be nice to see it finished and even see its build log if you have the time!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Yo!
> I'm looking to upgrade my system in a way so It can be more silent!
> Currently I got Noiseblocker 3HS and AP-15 fans which Im thinking about "downgrading" to the Corsair SP120 Quiet Editon fans.
> Then upgrading from the Koolance RP4xxx - Bitspower Dual D5 top with the new Bitspower tank!
> You think that will be an improvement? Any other suggestions?
> I currently run the pumps at 2 & 4, cause one off the pumps seems to make more noise


Doubtful in all honesty. Have you tried just running your fans at a lower speed?


----------



## Aventadoor

Oh ye I run all my fans on a FC8 fan controller








Every fan is at lowest possible speed.

I know its the pumps that makes the most noise, but how can I make them more quiet?
Make a soundproofed room for them? lol


----------



## lowfat

Which version of the Koolance bay reservoir do you have?


----------



## Aventadoor

Koolance RP-452X2 Rev.2
So its not very well dampned for vibrations.
Nor is the case bay mounts, cause they are just solid aluminium without rubber.


----------



## Bradleynight

Test fit of 360 on my Haf 922 rebuild.



And the Case ready for paint.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol we try not to talk about all the hardships
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will admit, my SR-2 is the first WC'ing build that went smoothly.


Hah, you're my new best friend... I like your honesty.

Fortunately I didn't run into a lot of problems with my rig. The only thing that was a challenge was some minor cutting to the side panel door,and the mobo to CPU water cooling connections. Everything is tight now.

One question/concern I do have is that because my rig isn't exactly running just yet (underpowered PSU), will the stagnant water be an issue? I've turned it on at least a few times since I've completed the build and made all the power connections, but I wasn't sure if leaving the rig off for more than a couple of days would be detrimental to the contents of the coolant (biocide + 2 drops of dye). I've already discovered a little sand-like sediment in the bottom of my resevoir, despite flushing all the blocks and rads months before I assembled the rig.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwmagee90*
> 
> Hi everyone... I am new here and I have been lurking for a while... I just thought I would post some pics of my second build and my first ever watercooling build...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what ya think...


Looks great!







Is that mayhem dye/coolant in that system?


----------



## Beerr

My first attempt at WC.
At the moment only for my GFX and later on I will replace the Corsair cpu cooler.
Unfortunately you can't get a full blocks for 560ti 448's so I had to go with EK universal blocks. Getting max 60 deg. at full oc, comparing with 80 I was getting with fans.
At the top 420 Koolance rad with push/pull fans.
Tubing is 3/8" and running on distilled water with a silver plug in my drain.
Installed extra fan in front using LianLi 5.25 fan module.


----------



## Eyedea

You might wanna add a more substantial kill coil into your loop. Not sure a single silver plug will suffice, especially if its just in the drain. P retty sure i read somewhere they dont do as good a job as a regular kill coil. Another thing, im sure Mayhems recommends 1 kill coil per 500ml of fluid.


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> You might wanna add a more substantial kill coil into your loop. Not sure a single silver plug will suffice, especially if its just in the drain. P retty sure i read somewhere they dont do as good a job as a regular kill coil. Another thing, im sure Mayhems recommends 1 kill coil per 500ml of fluid.


Yea, even if he used only silver Bitspower fittings it still wouldn't help much against algae, i've seen systems getting algae despite of having these fittings and someone said it's because of the thin plating used. On plug in a drainport with no flow definitely won't help at all.


----------



## Beerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> Yea, even if he used only silver Bitspower fittings it still wouldn't help much against algae, i've seen systems getting algae despite of having these fittings and someone said it's because of the thin plating used. On plug in a drainport with no flow definitely won't help at all.


Thanks for the advice. I was planning on submerging a 99.9% 1 oz. silver bar into my tank. Which should do the trick. And for the looks as well =)


----------



## audioholic

Little update on the Vulcan build








Getting super close now...

New cover I made







Hopefully going to be getting it vinyl wrapped and then throw LEDs underneath!


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Little update on the Vulcan build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting super close now...
> New cover I made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully going to be getting it vinyl wrapped and then throw LEDs underneath!


if ya dont mind, how'd u go about bending that acrylic?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> if ya dont mind, how'd u go about bending that acrylic?


Line bender, heat gun, oven, laser vision?


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> if ya dont mind, how'd u go about bending that acrylic?


Bneg has posted tutorial here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1281014/acrylic-bending-101#post_17687394

Just be sure to apply even pressure when bending, or ideally let the weight of the plexi bend itself.


----------



## audioholic

Heat gun and a work bench. I admit its not the best bend, but I think it came out pretty good


----------



## protzman

thanks for the link krahe!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys, would just a 180MM radiator provide a decent amount of cooling? I'm talking just a radiator, no fan.

I don't have room in my case to put another 180MM radiator and fan, just the radiator. Would there be enough cooling ability to put it in there? I will NOT put a fan on the outside of my case.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## lowfat

Any radiator w/o a fan is pretty much useless. Unless it is designed to be passive.


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, would just a 180MM radiator provide a decent amount of cooling? I'm talking just a radiator, no fan.
> I don't have room in my case to put another 180MM radiator and fan, just the radiator. Would there be enough cooling ability to put it in there? I will NOT put a fan on the outside of my case.
> Jeffinslaw


I don't know what you're cooling but I'm going to say no. I have a 480x120 mm radiator and a 120x120 radiator cooling an overclocked 2600k and GTX 690. I can turn all the fans off when I'm just using the computer for watching movies/browsing the internet but if I decide to play a game or encode some HD video for more than a few minutes I better have fans on. A 180mm fan is 32400 mm^2 of cooling area, my cooling area is 72000 mm^2 which is 222% more area than a 180mm radiator and it's not enough to cool my rig without fans.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, would just a 180MM radiator provide a decent amount of cooling? I'm talking just a radiator, no fan.
> I don't have room in my case to put another 180MM radiator and fan, just the radiator. Would there be enough cooling ability to put it in there? I will NOT put a fan on the outside of my case.
> Jeffinslaw


If you can direct he airflow to the radiator, its possible. But, tbh, you'll get better temps by placing a fan on the radiator or as close as possible.


----------



## trisx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Little update on the Vulcan build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting super close now...
> New cover I made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully going to be getting it vinyl wrapped and then throw LEDs underneath!


Mind telling me what case is that?


----------



## egotrippin

I was testing passive cooling and disabled my fans the other day to see how hot the coolant would get under regular use. Normal coolant temps for me are 25c idle to 32c gaming. I forgot they were off and started playing Batman Arkham City for about 45 min until my Koolance TMS-205 beeped at me to alert me my coolant temperature had skyrocketed to 55c. My GPU and CPU were only about 10c hotter which was well within the normal operational range. I clicked the button to put the fans back in to auto and felt a wall of stagnant warm air come across the room.

Although these temps are fine for CPU/GPU, I know that that my pump, a MCP655 is only rated for < 60c.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Thanks for the help guys. I can fit one 180MM radiator with a fan but I was going to have two 180MM but it won't fit... This really upsets me.







I know 180MM of radiator space is not enough for an i7 3820 and a GTX 690...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Thanks for the help guys. I can fit one 180MM radiator with a fan but I was going to have two 180MM but it won't fit... This really upsets me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know 180MM of radiator space is not enough for an i7 3820 and a GTX 690...
> Jeffinslaw


Wow, for the money you dropped on the 690, why are going with such a limited loop and setup? I would just run air if you can't afford a good setup and case. You can always sell the 690 and buy a couple of 670s. With the extra cash, you can get a bigger case and loop.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I haven't bought the GTX 690 yet. And I have a G5 case, go check out my build log! Hopefully you'll see why I like the case









Jeffinslaw


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, for the money you dropped on the 690, why are going with such a limited loop and setup? I would just run air if you can't afford a good setup and case. *You can always sell the 690* and buy a couple of 670s. With the extra cash, you can get a bigger case and loop.


*blasphemy!*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> *blasphemy!*


It would be *wrong* to cool this gpu with only a 180mm rad and shared with a cpu as well. That' is blasphemy to the gpu water cooling gods







My take, if he don't have the space in for water, air cool the suckas with a big honking cpu cooler and an aftermarket gpu cooler.


----------



## fr0st.

Damn watercooling, why are you so expensive.

Put together my loop and my pump didn't prime properly and the impeller shredded. New pumps on the way with res and radiator (crossflow didn't fit, have to use a normal EX360) and now I have no monies ;(

Will be good to finally get a rig up and running though.

Link to rig in sig, if anyone's interested.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.*
> 
> Damn watercooling, *why are you so expensive.*
> Put together my loop and my pump didn't prime properly and the impeller shredded. New pumps on the way with res and radiator (crossflow didn't fit, have to use a normal EX360) and now I have no monies ;(
> Will be good to finally get a rig up and running though.
> Link to rig in sig, if anyone's interested.


I know the feeling





















That's one of the main reasons I'm throwing in the towel


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I know the feeling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's one of the main reasons I'm throwing in the towel


Don't throw in the towel... you might need that towel if you spring a leak.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> Don't throw in the towel... you might need that towel if you spring a leak.


Loops already broken down and some parts are sold already. After going through about 10 loops within the last couple of years, I need a break


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> I was testing passive cooling and disabled my fans the other day to see how hot the coolant would get under regular use. Normal coolant temps for me are 25c idle to 32c gaming. I forgot they were off and started playing Batman Arkham City for about 45 min until my Koolance TMS-205 beeped at me to alert me my coolant temperature had skyrocketed to 55c. My GPU and CPU were only about 10c hotter which was well within the normal operational range. I clicked the button to put the fans back in to auto and felt a wall of stagnant warm air come across the room.
> 
> Although these temps are fine for CPU/GPU, I know that that my pump, a MCP655 is only rated for < 60c.


Not to mention, many use their radiator fans for case air flow as well. There are many passively cooled areas of your motherboard that like air flow as well.


----------



## mandrix

Wondering how to find out if FrozenQ 250ml cylindrical res uv voltage same as NXZT 2m lighting strip? I don't see a need to put 2 uv boxes in the rig if I can run both off the double output of the FrozenQ ?
Here's a pic with leak testing and a fabbed mount for pump not installed yet:

Fabbed a quick and dirty pump mount last night but not painted yet. Here's pump on a pile 'o foam.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trisx*
> 
> Mind telling me what case is that?


Its an NZXT Vulcan


----------



## swirusek

My 1st loop ever and i already thinking about upgrades xD


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swirusek*
> 
> My 1st loop ever and i already thinking about upgrades xD
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Photos!


As it should be, I haven't even built mine yet (let alone ordered the parts) and I am thinking about upgrades


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It would be *wrong* to cool this gpu with only a 180mm rad and shared with a cpu as well. That' is blasphemy to the gpu water cooling gods
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My take, if he don't have the space in for water, air cool the suckas with a big honking cpu cooler and an aftermarket gpu cooler.


Well I still haven't completely decided yet guys! Relax!







I'm going to find a way to make it work. Trust me









Jeffinslaw


----------



## eR_L0k0!!




----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really looking forward to your review results Bundy, btw did Vincent from Bitspower end up donating one of their Summit blocks?


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swirusek*
> 
> My 1st loop ever and i already thinking about upgrades xD
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those Yate Loons?


----------



## Fuganater

Quick and dirty setup for a review. Used a CoolIT Systems Vantage CPU Cooler.


----------



## swirusek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Are those Yate Loons?


yes and yes i lubed them and yes i have fan controller


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that Mayhem's pastel blue?

Or what coolant is it?

Good job, white and blue look so fresh


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swirusek*
> 
> yes and yes i lubed them and yes i have fan controller


Well good! It's nice to see someone else with Yate Loon LED fans.


----------



## Aventadoor

I think my D5s are defect... Or its still air in the loop... Oh boi, atleast its a good reason to get Bitspower dual D5 top with Bitspower 150 res! lol
(the high pitched sound is from the PSU...)


----------



## Lazy Bear

Air is still in the loop, I imagine.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I think my D5s are defect... Or its still air in the loop... Oh boi, atleast its a good reason to get Bitspower dual D5 top with Bitspower 150 res! lol
> (the high pitched sound is from the PSU...)


Hard to hear over the high pitched sound from the PSU


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is that Mayhem's pastel blue?
> Or what coolant is it?
> Good job, white and blue look so fresh


Yes. Is Pastel Blue Berry


----------



## mandrix

My frozenQ uv quit. Dang it. Worked fine, pulled out the res to drop a kill coil in and it failed to come back on, have verified power going into the little box with a meter but there's nothing coming out measureable.
Doesn't this box just drop the voltage MOL? Should continuity be open across the UV light itself or should there be some resistance (taken at the end of the lead) ? So my thinking is the little power box or whatever it's called has fubar'd.
Help me out OCN gurus, need to find out what to tell PPCS when I call them tomorrow, I'd rather try to get a fix than send the whole thing back and be left "res-less".
Thanks!


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Air is still in the loop, I imagine.


Yes there is alot of tiny bubbles...
But I cant get rid of them








Ive tryed for 4 hours today, and 2 yesterday. Ive even had the STH10 on its head and still the air wont go out proporly.
Tips?
I think ive tryed everything really


----------



## K62-RIG

try agitating the bubbles by turning the rig on and then off. I needed to do this a few times to get my bubbles out. Since then no problems at all.


----------



## Aventadoor

Oh Ive tryed







As I said, Ive even had the case on its head, on the side etc








Its those tiny bubbles who are "stuck" at the wall inside the tubing...


----------



## K62-RIG

the only other thing I can think off is to drain the loop and refill. It will get rid of them and allow you to start fresh.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Yes there is alot of tiny bubbles...
> But I cant get rid of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ive tryed for 4 hours today, and 2 yesterday. Ive even had the STH10 on its head and still the air wont go out proporly.
> Tips?
> I think ive tryed everything really


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Oh Ive tryed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said, Ive even had the case on its head, on the side etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its those tiny bubbles who are "stuck" at the wall inside the tubing...


Let the pumps run full power for much longer. Sometimes it takes a while to work bubbles out. 6 hours isn't that much.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If you have a variable speed pump change up and down in speed. Also, you'll need to leave the loop running for several days to get ALL the air out. Eventually it will come out....


----------



## Aventadoor

Aight I'll run it untill monday, if it aint close to 100% its Bitspower dual D5 /w Bitspower 150 res kit time!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eR_L0k0!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I can't get over how awesome that coolant looks!! Looks like "liquid Smurf"!!! I don't even really like blue that much but this just looks amazing (almost sorry I've already settled on Pastel Grape Red)....


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Aight I'll run it untill monday, if it aint close to 100% its Bitspower dual D5 /w Bitspower 150 res kit time!


Ironically, I can't hear your pump at all in that video.

But yea, shake the case, move it all around, and let it run for atleast 24 hours. I still had air bubble circulating noise going through my loop 48 hours later (though very sporadically). Now, this thing is silent as can be... minus my high speed yate loons running at full speed 24/7


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Ironically, I can't hear your pump at all in that video.
> But yea, shake the case, move it all around, and let it run for atleast 24 hours. I still had air bubble circulating noise going through my loop 48 hours later (though very sporadically). Now, this thing is silent as can be... minus my high speed yate loons running at full speed 24/7


Look from 0:25 and out, and u hear I go from Speed1 - Speed5.
If you cant hear it then, you should increase the volume, if that doesnt help, you should get your ears tested!


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Ironically, I can't hear your pump at all in that video.
> But yea, shake the case, move it all around, and let it run for atleast 24 hours. I still had air bubble circulating noise going through my loop 48 hours later (though very sporadically). Now, this thing is silent as can be... minus my high speed yate loons running at full speed 24/7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look from 0:25 and out, and u hear I go from Speed1 - Speed5.
> If you cant hear it then, you should increase the volume, if that doesnt help, you should get your ears tested!
Click to expand...

I just turned my headphones and system sound all the way up and I can hear it now... and is it even that loud? It still doesn't seem loud to me, nor does it sound like air noise. It's the impeller just moving super fast. Is it really that audible with the case closed up? My pump seemed loud until I closed up the case, now I can't hear it at all over the fans.


----------



## Aventadoor

The video doesnt catch it good enough unfortunaly. Thanks to the PSU.
I think that my PSU makes that sort off noise that only animals and obviously my cellphone can pickup!
Cause I cant hear it myself lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Oh Ive tryed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said, Ive even had the case on its head, on the side etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its those tiny bubbles who are "stuck" at the wall inside the tubing...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> If you have a variable speed pump change up and down in speed. Also, you'll need to leave the loop running for several days to get ALL the air out. Eventually it will come out....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> The video doesnt catch it good enough unfortunaly. Thanks to the PSU.
> I think that my PSU makes that sort off noise that only animals and obviously my cellphone can pickup!
> Cause I cant hear it myself lol


Sounds like air to me. The best way that I have found to handle air bubbles is to leave the fill tube connected and letting it run while uncapped. It's what I did. Then when you have air in the Res, top it off and let it continue to run. Those pumps should easily be able to run out all the the air but I would also bump the power on an off for a bit to make sure there is no air trapped in the system at the Pumps.









~Ceadder


----------



## wot

So here is my lian-li, the tube is feser UV, but I don't like it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> So here is my lian-li, the tube is feser UV, but I don't like it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wait so you're going to run Distilled only or are you going Dye?

I don't think it'll much matter if you choose dye over distilled should you use the Feser UV tubing. But if you're going Distilled only like I am I would've gone with a colored tubing rather than a clear type.









~Ceadder


----------



## wot

Distilled + IandH + KillCoil. I think black tubing will look better.
Here is picture under UV light


----------



## Shiikamaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Distilled + IandH + KillCoil. I think black tubing will look better.
> Here is picture under UV light


what brand of uv lighting you using and how many to get that effect in the photo?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Distilled + IandH + KillCoil. I think black tubing will look better.
> Here is picture under UV light
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks wicked. I don't see anything wrong with that other than the lack of UV effect on the Reservoir.









Black would be kewl too tho. I run white atm. I need to connect my UV LED setup to check out how it looks though.









~Ceadder


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks wicked. I don't see anything wrong with that other than the lack of UV effect on the Reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black would be kewl too tho. I run white atm. I need to connect my UV LED setup to check out how it looks though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










Yep the reservoir looks ugly without uv effect. Maybe I will leave this tubing and try Mayhem's uv blue dye.
Post a picture of yours! Black Bp fitting + white tubing looks sick!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> what brand of uv lighting you using and how many to get that effect in the photo?


"Sharkoon 4-In-1 Kit 30Cm Cold Cathode" ( I use only two cold cathodes), gelid 120mm UV fans and feser 1/2 x 3/4 clear UV tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sounds like air to me. The best way that I have found to handle air bubbles is to leave the fill tube connected and letting it run while uncapped. It's what I did. Then when you have air in the Res, top it off and let it continue to run. Those pumps should easily be able to run out all the the air but I would also bump the power on an off for a bit to make sure there is no air trapped in the system at the Pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Pretty much this,leaving res fillport plug off,running the pumps then,while they are running,seal the res up. This drew a lot of air out of my sr2 loop....this was made easier with 2 pumps tho...


----------



## Aventadoor

Looks like I got it all out now! Thank you very much guys









Next problem:
I struggle to get rid of vibrations from the pumps. A negative effect from having the pumps face facing down?








Its rubber on both side of the screws etc, the rubber is 2-4mm thick.
And ofcourse Ive checked that theres nothing else that causing an vibration issue.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks wicked. I don't see anything wrong with that other than the lack of UV effect on the Reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black would be kewl too tho. I run white atm. I need to connect my UV LED setup to check out how it looks though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep the reservoir looks ugly without uv effect. Maybe I will leave this tubing and try Mayhem's uv blue dye.
> Post a picture of yours! Black Bp fitting + white tubing looks sick!
Click to expand...

Not BP fittings(only 2 and both are barbs), they're EK black nickel comps...










Don't have my UV light plugged in yet and of course it's too bright in the house atm to take a proper UV pic anyway.







lol

Is it me or is this pic a little fuzzy? Looked good when I had a single 5770 but now that I'm running 6870 it seems a bit hazy/fuzzy.









~Ceadder


----------



## Willhemmens

Looks just like poor picture quality Ceadderman.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not BP fittings(only 2 and both are barbs), they're EK black nickel comps...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't have my UV light plugged in yet and of course it's too bright in the house atm to take a proper UV pic anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> Is it me or is this pic a little fuzzy? Looked good when I had a single 5770 but now that I'm running 6870 it seems a bit hazy/fuzzy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not to sound like a jerk but... Are you like doing some Instragram effect? Its not helping...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Why all the crap in the picture, all the writting and annoying design?

Check this thread, http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig/0_30


----------



## protzman

lol, meanies in here!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> lol, meanies in here!


I am not meanie, his rig is awsome, the color theme and everything is cool.

But you don't show something (especially fittings) with that kind of picture. Half the picture is the build and the other half is the watermark.









No Offense Ceadder.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> lol, meanies in here!


Nah, he gave some solid criticism. His pictures had been bothering me too


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Looks like its been magnified or something. So many jaggies! Please take some better pics of your sweet rig Ceadder!!!


----------



## Hellish

Any paranoid goons out there ever put something like this







by the fitting in case there happens to be a slow leak you don't catch? I want to "take the plunge" but I am super paranoid of a leak, I am the type of person who checks if they locked their car door 4-5 times.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

General rule is, if it don't leak after a 24 hour leak test it ain't gonna leak. Period.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looks like its been magnified or something. So many jaggies! Please take some better pics of your sweet rig Ceadder!!!


Appreciate the critique guys. I can always change the frame of the watermark to something thinner. Just doing it to be different of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looks like its been magnified or something. So many jaggies! Please take some better pics of your sweet rig Ceadder!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate the critique guys. I can always change the frame of the watermark to something thinner. Just doing it to be different of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Booooo you must conform!









I say you do what makes you happy with your pictures. And... nice rig


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellish*
> 
> Any paranoid goons out there ever put something like this by the fitting in case there happens to be a slow leak you don't catch? I want to "take the plunge" but I am super paranoid of a leak, I am the type of person who checks if they locked their car door 4-5 times.


My loop leaked the first two times I put it together (my first attempts at watercooling) but I wasn't worried (but my dad was practically wetting his pants watching me, though). If only your fans + pump are being supplied with power and all other components aren't even connected to the power supply, you have very little to worry about. If you want to be extra careful, run an extended leak test (4+ hours) at a time where you can regularly check up on it. You can generously wrap fittings with paper towels or cover up any sensitive components under a possible leak location with something absorbent.

Just tighten your fittings and make sure you have some sort of tight, secure clamping mechanism over your barbs. Alternatively, buy barbs that are _slightly_ larger than the inner diameter of your tubing (for example, 7/16" x 5/8" tubing on a 1/2" barb). Doing this pretty much eliminates the possibilities of leaks.

You have nothing to worry about if you take your time and double-check all your connections for tightness and security


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> You have nothing to worry about if you take your time and double-check all your connections for tightness and security


This. On more than one occasion I've been short on time, know what I'm doing, tear apart and reassemble in a hurry, and start filling 'er up...and start seeing water come out because I didn't adequately tighten something. Be excited, but take your time and double check.

First 2 times being a bit of a newb and I was scared silly water cooling 2 systems but I did it right the first time, no leaks and happy fun times...having become an insufferable know-it-all, I make the mistake of doing things in a hurry more than I'd like to admit. I've been lucky that I've yet to smoke any components being in a hurry, very lucky.


----------



## AndresR

Here is my Corsair 800D build, hope you guys like it and any comment is welcome































































Still have to change some things:

1. Remove the feeser tubing, bought it because having some plasticer problem with my tygoon black tubing but this feeser is more a dark purple








2. Remove the tubing wrap, i had an emergency and need to get the system to start working, so i couldn't do the hot/cold water tip to avoid kinks in my cpu tubing.
3. Not sure about this, but maybe changing the tubing to clear and add Mayhem pastel red or dye red.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Here is my Corsair 800D build, hope you guys like it and any comment is welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have to change some things:
> 1. Remove the feeser tubing, bought it because having some plasticer problem with my tygoon black tubing but this feeser is more a dark purple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Remove the tubing wrap, i had an emergency and need to get the system to start working, so i couldn't do the hot/cold water tip to avoid kinks in my cpu tubing.
> 3. Not sure about this, but maybe changing the tubing to clear and add Mayhem pastel red or dye red.


1. Agreed. Definitely looks purple in the pics.
2. Try using rope or springs inside the tubing when you do the heat / rapid cooling of the tubing. It will help immensely.
3. I would say no to clear tubing. I haven't found any that doesn't cloud up. Maybe try doing some sleeving over the tubing if you are trying to do something unique.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Rebuiling MountainDewCooled with new hardware.
Painted the 600T, something different


----------



## derickwm

Beautiful rig Andres, would look better with clear tubing though


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Rebuiling MountainDewCooled with new hardware.
> Painted the 600T, something different


Wow that looks really nice! I like the color something defintely different from the rest







Good Luck on you upgrade


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Here is my Corsair 800D build, hope you guys like it and any comment is welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have to change some things:
> 1. Remove the feeser tubing, bought it because having some plasticer problem with my tygoon black tubing but this feeser is more a dark purple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Remove the tubing wrap, i had an emergency and need to get the system to start working, so i couldn't do the hot/cold water tip to avoid kinks in my cpu tubing.
> 3. Not sure about this, but maybe changing the tubing to clear and add Mayhem pastel red or dye red.






Is that a fan controller in the bottom 2 pics? Is it ok that your incoming temp is slightly higher than the outgoing? I know it's not much of a difference at all just wondering. Beautiful Rig by the way


----------



## AndresR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 1. Agreed. Definitely looks purple in the pics.
> 2. Try using rope or springs inside the tubing when you do the heat / rapid cooling of the tubing. It will help immensely.
> 3. I would say no to clear tubing. I haven't found any that doesn't cloud up. Maybe try doing some sleeving over the tubing if you are trying to do something unique.


Thanks for the extra tips. About the tubing not sure what to do, i think i will wait a little until more people post some results about the plasticer issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Beautiful rig Andres, would look better with clear tubing though


Thank you! I'll give clear tubing a try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Is that a fan controller in the bottom 2 pics? Is it ok that your incoming temp is slightly higher than the outgoing? I know it's not much of a difference at all just wondering. Beautiful Rig by the way


Yep, it's the Aquaero. Looks like I also have to fix that, one sensor is after all the two rads and the other is after the bigger one, should be after the blocks, but the difference it's always very small.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looks like its been magnified or something. So many jaggies! Please take some better pics of your sweet rig Ceadder!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate the critique guys. I can always change the frame of the watermark to something thinner. Just doing it to be different of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Booooo you must conform!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I say you do what makes you happy with your pictures. And... nice rig
Click to expand...

Well being honest about this an all I must say that I use my webcam to take pics atm. I don't have a very good camera for documenting the system for posterity but the webcam is serviceable. I'm aware of my lighting issues so I'll probably use a sheet over the window to minimize natural lighting which normally you want but trying to get good shots I have found that it interferes with the lighting of the interior using my webcam. If I had a DSLR, not so much.









~Ceadder


----------



## Canis-X

Man it took forever to get back caught up reading on this thread!!! I must say though I saw several very smexy rigs in here that is for sure!! Good job one and all!!









Question for you gents......Is there a 420 rad (3x140) that you can run in serial.....i.e. the inlet tube port is on one end of the rad and the exit tube port is on the other? Just trying to think of ways to clean up the look of my CPU/Mobo loop.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah they make crossflow rads.

As for my build, I got the FC Bridge installed only to find out that it was too short for my RIVE.







Now I've got to take it back off and order the correct bridge which will further delay the build (which is becoming the norm anyway). I also feel pretty overwhelmed by my fan controller and how the hell I am going to manage to hide all of those wires in a case that has practically no cable management (TJ11)....


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Is there a 420 rad (3x140) that you can run in serial.....i.e. the inlet tube port is on one end of the rad and the exit tube port is on the other? Just trying to think of ways to clean up the look of my CPU/Mobo loop.


As far as i know, the biggest crossflow rad I have seen is the EX360 crossflow by XSPC, no word on whether theyre making a 420 crossflow yet

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/ex360-crossflow-radiator/


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah they make crossflow rads.
> As for my build, I got the FC Bridge installed only to find out that it was too short for my RIVE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I've got to take it back off and order the correct bridge which will further delay the build (which is becoming the norm anyway). I also feel pretty overwhelmed by my fan controller and how the hell I am going to manage to hide all of those wires in a case that has practically no cable management (TJ11)....


I'm sorry to hear about your build issues. I've seen so many creative people on these and other forums on their builds, that I just learned to accept the parts that I bought. In the case of my PSU being underpowered, that's something that I'll just have to upgrade in order to at least get this thing running. Right now i can't even get the BIOS screen without shutting off everything else but the mobo and graphics card. But at the same time, I don't want to overheat either of them while trying to install W7. So for now, I'll just have to wait until my dream PSU comes back into stock again (Rosewill Lightning 1300 watt/Tagan) with Newegg I guess.

At some point I might switch cases, but for now, getting it running is the most important thing that I'll be focusing on.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Here is a complete setup, with all the new block ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Very beautiful setups*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Went back to a single loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> From this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Have you thinking about get rid of HDD Cage*?
Click to expand...











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just finished my Core 1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come take a look at the build log if you like what you see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Linky
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been waiting for sooo long to join this











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats! please let WC Club know how its perform asap!







Thanks in advance ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwmagee90*
> 
> Hi everyone... I am new here and I have been lurking for a while... I just thought I would post some pics of my second build and my first ever watercooling build...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what ya think...


sexy setup!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Here is my Corsair 800D build, hope you guys like it and any comment is welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have to change some things:
> 1. Remove the feeser tubing, bought it because having some plasticer problem with my tygoon black tubing but this feeser is more a dark purple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Remove the tubing wrap, i had an emergency and need to get the system to start working, so i couldn't do the hot/cold water tip to avoid kinks in my cpu tubing.
> 3. Not sure about this, but maybe changing the tubing to clear and add Mayhem pastel red or dye red[./SPOILER]


Ahh loop and case are amazing color match!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Man it took forever to get back caught up reading on this thread!!! I must say though I saw several very smexy rigs in here that is for sure!! Good job one and all!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question for you gents......Is there a 420 rad (3x140) that you can run in serial.....i.e. the inlet tube port is on one end of the rad and the exit tube port is on the other? Just trying to think of ways to clean up the look of my CPU/Mobo loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey Canis-X did you see your old Formula block in my system? I couldn't handle that stainless plate in the middle of it so it got Redded.


















NB temp is ~10c cooler now on average(42-46c) and Board temp is running about 36c.









Your system look BAWS but gotta limit your tubing some.









Here's a shot of mine now that it's finished... er ahhhh well somewhat.


















5770 has been replacededed by 6870.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alfaa

This ain't much, but I think it looks pretty clean aside from that stupid loop I had to make on the return because the tubing wasn't flexible enough...


No tubing in this one.

I actually have a 240g RevoDrive in there right now, but I diden't take any pictures with it in.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Canis-X did you see your old Formula block in my system? I couldn't handle that stainless plate in the middle of it so it got Redded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NB temp is ~10c cooler now on average(42-46c) and Board temp is running about 36c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your system look BAWS but gotta limit your tubing some.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a shot of mine now that it's finished... er ahhhh well somewhat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5770 has been replacededed by 6870.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Pretty nice build bud.

The mobo block is so


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks KaRLiToS. I scuffed the plate with the piece of emery cloth that you see in the pic and hit it with 3 coats of Rustoleum Universal Advanced in Crimson Gloss. I think that it turned out quite well. I taped off the barb that I got with a DD Fillport Res and used that to keep the inlet free of paint. Made a great handle for turning the project during the painting process. EK had a pretty reasonable idea(other than covering the screw hole in the middle of the board







) with this block but I just don't understand how they thought that a silver eyesore would fit the color scheme on an ROG Mainboard. So I fixeded it.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## PA99

Couple of pics from my first day under water. Interesting and long day. It's all been done before but I had to start somewhere. Got so much info from this site I'd have been lost without it


----------



## superericla

Just got my second OCN flame.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just got my second OCN flame.


How do you get those?


----------



## Fuganater

Leak testing my folding tower. Its almost done!










And I added fan filters to the Radiator stand. Also almost done!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> How do you get those?


Once you get past a certain number of rep, you get a flame.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Once you get past a certain number of rep, you get a flame.


Ahhh, interesting


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just got my second OCN flame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you get those?
Click to expand...

By posting and *being hepful*. The more hepful you are the more Rep you get. The more Rep you accumulate the more Flames you will achieve.









~Ceadder


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just got my second OCN flame.


Flame on!









Grats, well deserved.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> By posting and *being hepful*. The more hepful you are the more Rep you get. The more Rep you accumulate the more Flames you will achieve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Is there like a set amount of reps you have to get for the flame? Or how does that work? Just wondering is it in the TOS ?


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Is there like a set amount of reps you have to get for the flame? Or how does that work? Just wondering is it in the TOS ?


If I remember correctly:
1 flame @ 25 rep
Be able to sell in marketplace @ 35 rep
2 flames @ 100 rep
3flames and overclocked account @ 250 (if youve been a member for over a year)
4 @ 500
5 @ 750 (the max flames you can get, can still get more rep)


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Leak testing my folding tower. Its almost done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I added fan filters to the Radiator stand. Also almost done!


Is that a Phobya 1080?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Is there like a set amount of reps you have to get for the flame? Or how does that work? Just wondering is it in the TOS ?
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember correctly:
> 1 flame @ 25 rep
> Be able to sell in marketplace @ 35 rep
> 2 flames @ 100 rep
> 3flames and overclocked account @ 250 (if youve been a member for over a year)
> 4 @ 500
> 5 @ 750 (the max flames you can get, can still get more rep)
Click to expand...

Correct except you can sell with less than 35 rep by replying to wanted listings but you can not create your own listings or actively advertise items until you have 35 rep.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Is there like a set amount of reps you have to get for the flame? Or how does that work? Just wondering is it in the TOS ?
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember correctly:
> 1 flame @ 25 rep
> Be able to sell in marketplace @ 35 rep
> 2 flames @ 100 rep
> 3flames and overclocked account @ 250 (if youve been a member for over a year)
> 4 @ 500
> 5 @ 750 (the max flames you can get, can still get more rep)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Correct except you can sell with less than 35 rep by replying to wanted listings but you can not create your own listings or actively advertise items until you have 35 rep.
Click to expand...

Thats cool and sucks all at the same time! lol


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey Canis-X did you see your old Formula block in my system? I couldn't handle that stainless plate in the middle of it so it got Redded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NB temp is ~10c cooler now on average(42-46c) and Board temp is running about 36c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your system look BAWS but gotta limit your tubing some.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a shot of mine now that it's finished... er ahhhh well somewhat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5770 has been replacededed by 6870.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, I agree it does look better in red! Glad you like the block and looks like it found a fantastic home!!







I have got to get off my duff and get my Crosshair V Formula FC block taken off my old motherboard and listed in the marketplace soon. Just have limited free time with twin toddlers getting into everything so when I do get some time I'm in BF3 with friends LOL.







On second thought, I may just sell the Crosshair V Formula as well as the FC EK block, wife doesn't need a CVF in her computer....she only surfs the net for coupons anyway, so I'll just get her a different motherboard that has less bells and whistles.









Yeah, I want to remove my current Koolance res/pump combo (5.25" bay) and put in some tube res so that it is easier to fill and bleed the air out.....the Koolance one sux in this dept. Once it is done though it is nice and quiet and gives me no trouble, but the size of this case.....well, I need to fill that dead space with the res and pumps IMO. I want to make a light tray on the bottom of the case and a divider between the 5.25" bays and the main part of the case too, just need the time. Temp-wise, my CPU cores stay below 70C and my GPU cores never go above 40C so I can't complain at all there.


----------



## rwmagee90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that mayhem dye/coolant in that system?


It is mayhems light red with 10ml Mayhems red dye added to it


----------



## Egameman

Hey all !!

I'm having some problems here:

I'm going to build a new rig , it will take some time because of the money.

My issue is, I need a case that is not too big, I need to *watercool* 3570k or 3770k and a 670 or 680 ( I WILL get a big case later, but this i due to the lack of room in the living room,and my wifes atred of big cases).

I have a switch 810, because it was on sale an I didnt know what to do.

*So, recommendations ?*

I'm looking at BItfenix Prodigy, got room or decent enough cooling there.

This is driving me crazy, I've ben configuring this and that, taking notes etc etc... been windowshopping online for wweks now


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Hey all !!
> I'm having some problems here:
> I'm going to build a new rig , it will take some time because of the money.
> My issue is, I need a case that is not too big, I need to *watercool* 3570k or 3770k and a 670 or 680 ( I WILL get a big case later, but this i due to the lack of room in the living room,and my wifes atred of big cases).
> I have a switch 810, because it was on sale an I didnt know what to do.
> *So, recommendations ?*
> I'm looking at BItfenix Prodigy, got room or decent enough cooling there.
> This is driving me crazy, I've ben configuring this and that, taking notes etc etc... been windowshopping online for wweks now


here are a few

silverstone sugo sg08 mini ITX
Lian Li - PC - TU200
Lian Li - PC - U6 Special Edition

Have a good one


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Also.
Before I repaint it.
Any comments or input on the colour scheme?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I thought you just did repaint it??


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I thought you just did repaint it??


I've only painted it once.
I'm going to repaint it this friday


----------



## LuckyNumber13

MountainDew:

i posted this a little bit back but if your into painting look into this.
it's paint that when it reachs approx 85*F it turns absolutely
transparent so whatever is underneath shows up.
i'm probally giong to get a few of my waterblocks done
with this stuff.
http://www.paintwithpearl.com/youtubecolorchange.htm
also this is cool..
http://dna-paints.com/specialpaints/hol-a-grafix/video.htm
thinking of doing a Predator build in the future

have a good one.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> I've only painted it once.
> I'm going to repaint it this friday


Mountain Dew color scheme


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Hahaha. I did honestly toss that around for a little bit.
Maybe get some sponsorship from Pepsi Co.


----------



## Plutonium10

To get that sponsorship you might need to cool your loop with actual Mountain Dew.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Also.
> Before I repaint it.
> Any comments or input on the colour scheme?


I really like that blue, to be honest. It's very different. Keep that blue and paint more of the interior and do a blue / white build.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Repaint the inside white, rather than silver.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Repaint the inside white, rather than silver.


It is white.
Its just the camera is bad


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> To get that sponsorship you might need to cool your loop with actual Mountain Dew.


That would be awesome


----------



## superericla

I just bought another EX420 to go with the other one on the test bench Dwood is making me. Gladly, I have 8 spare 140mm NZXT fans which I can use 6 of on this radiator.


----------



## derickwm

I promised wermad I'd post these in here once completed...

























































^lul wrong focus point


----------



## superericla

Very nice.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I promised wermad I'd post these in here once completed...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^lul wrong focus point


Why did i buy my V8 again?


----------



## Fuganater

Mother of god...

What did you use for light?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why did i buy my V8 again?


I have no idea my good sir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Mother of god...
> 
> What did you use for light?


Porch light lol. First time using it, worked a lot better than I had expected.


----------



## Fuganater

WOW! Thats pretty good lighting then. I thougth you might have had a softbox.


----------



## derickwm

Hehe watch out for later this afternoon. Be doing another shoot when the sun is up in the sky and with some hardware in the case


----------



## Mayhem

Finally got it under test and about time










this is a vid of it running


----------



## mandrix

I had posted asking about the speed adjustment I broke on a MCP655 pump a while back....no one had anything to offer but I got into it finally. Pulled it apart yesterday and saw that the plastic shaft that engages the component inside for adjusting speed control is super thin and small on the very end. I can see how very little stress on the shaft could easily break it off.
In my case the end of the cross-shaped shaft lodged into the component inside making a "screwdriver" adjustment impossible. I flicked the tiny piece of the shaft out with a hobby knife and now I can reach in with a small phillips or straight screwdriver and adjust the speed.
Here is the shaft with the small piece that broke off, with a pencil for sizing.
My guess is it's intentionally made flimsy so as to avoid damaging the components if accidentally stressed like I apparently did when I put the dress kit/sleeving on.


----------



## protzman

anyone know of the new dominator platinum can work with ek ram dominator?


----------



## munnis

how much watercooling tank size matters? 350cc vs 120cc how much temperature is higher with 120cc than 350cc?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> how much watercooling tank size matters? 350cc vs 120cc how much temperature is higher with 120cc than 350cc?


It won't make that big of a differance if any at all. Just buy what fits and looks good in your case.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> how much watercooling tank size matters? 350cc vs 120cc how much temperature is higher with 120cc than 350cc?


It only matters if you're blowing $12USD/Liter on specialized coolants.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> how much watercooling tank size matters? 350cc vs 120cc how much temperature is higher with 120cc than 350cc?
> 
> 
> 
> It won't make that big of a differance if any at all. Just buy what fits and looks good in your case.
Click to expand...

+1

Just look at my Project Maples Leaf's weird pump/block/res setup. It works perfectly fine, just is much harder to fill and much more sensitive to air bubbles. Temperatures don't vary much at all going from the much bigger SwiftTech MicroRes wither.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just gave my pumps the once over.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> anyone know of the new dominator platinum can work with ek ram dominator?


It doesn't. The top of the heat sink isn't removable like gt and standard dominators. It has some lighting crap in it that's all wired up.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> anyone know of the new dominator platinum can work with ek ram dominator?
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't. The top of the heat sink isn't removable like gt and standard dominators. It has some lighting crap in it that's all wired up.
Click to expand...

$400 ram and you cant watercool it ugh


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> $400 ram and you cant watercool it ugh


You really dont need to WC DDR3,its purely a bling thing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just gave my pumps the once over.


Love the kit B Neg, but hopefully it's just my eyes playing tricks on me with your red striping. That doesn't look symmetrical.









~Ceadder


----------



## InsideJob

I only have an Antec Kuhler but I'd like to join the group. I'm going to get a custom loop going next upgrade time. First on my list is a new PSU to help my cable management and this ones getting old and needing replacement. Hope you guys like it anyway, it's my first custom build













more pics here http://www.overclock.net/gallery/album/index/id/282275


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I promised wermad I'd post these in here once completed...


I so want to purge my Antec and get that case right about now... (Rookie mistake). Christmas isn't too far away, so it's a possibility.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> $400 ram and you cant watercool it ugh


Meh...Anything above 1600mHz doesn't gain you anything worth mentioning to start with, and it isn't like the latencies are much to write home about either. And as said, WCing DDR3 is pretty darn pointless.


----------



## munnis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> Meh...Anything above 1600mHz doesn't gain you anything worth mentioning to start with, and it isn't like the latencies are much to write home about either. And as said, WCing DDR3 is pretty darn pointless.


why you lie?
you gain very much with winrar, winrar loves high mhz and good timings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love the kit B Neg, but hopefully it's just my eyes playing tricks on me with your red striping. That doesn't look symmetrical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah yeah,the joining section holding the 2 pumps together wasn't tightened up so it looks wrong..
They are in line tho now.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> why you lie?
> you gain very much with winrar, winrar loves high mhz and good timings.


For Sandy and Ivybridge (which the person I was responding to had), RAM speeds above 1600mHz makes nearly no difference even in benchmarks:


----------



## bundymania

Fractal Design Arc Mini Case
ASRock Z77E-ITX
Kingston HyperX DIMM Kit 16GB PC3L-17066U CL11 (DDR3-2133) (KHX21C11T1BK2/16X)
Kingston HyperX 3K SSD 240GB
Intel Core i5-3450, @ 4x 3.7 GHz
Cougar GX G600 600W PSU ATX 2.3
Swiftech Apogee Drive II
Swiftech ⅜" x ⅝" Lok-Seal™ Compression Fitting
Swiftech Helix 120 Fans
Aquacomputer Airplex Pro 240 Radiator
Alphacool Cape Corp AGB2 Black Rev. 2 Reservoir
XSPC ⅜" x ⅝" (16/10mm) Tubing


----------



## Bradleynight

Slowly geting Rig back up.
Fitting Rad and Reservoir.







Still have alot to do before complete but getting there.


----------



## protzman

I know it's Pretty much pointless, just wanted to know if they were compatible.
Guess I'll have to get the old dominators


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> I know it's Pretty much pointless, just wanted to know if they were compatible.
> Guess I'll have to get the old dominators


I am with you, if you are going to water cool at least go the whole 9 yards and go overkill (2v on the ram







)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> why you lie?
> you gain very much with winrar, winrar loves high mhz and good timings.


3dmark11 also loves high RAM clocks...


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> 3dmark11 also loves high RAM clocks...


For Sandy and Ivy, makes almost no difference:


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I promised wermad I'd post these in here once completed...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Photos!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^lul wrong focus point


Nice but not enough 5.25 bays


----------



## Plutonium10

If I put a drain port after the pump (lowest point in the loop), will the water from the res still be able to drain through the pump and out the drain port just by gravity?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> If I put a drain port after the pump (lowest point in the loop), will the water from the res still be able to drain through the pump and out the drain port just by gravity?


Yes. That's how I have mine set up. Works awesomely. I'll be draining my loop on Friday after [email protected] Every time I drain my loop it works like a charm.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I promised wermad I'd post these in here once completed...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know this is completely unrelated to how awesome that looks, but you live in Amangiri? A spa resort?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I promised wermad I'd post these in here once completed...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Photos!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^lul wrong focus point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice but not enough 5.25 bays
Click to expand...

Lol the Flexbay 120x4 Radiatoar Mount is taking up 12









Lazybear; lol I just work there







although lately it seems I've spent more time there than at home...grumble grumble.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol the Flexbay 120x4 Radiatoar Mount is taking up 12
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lazybear; lol I just work there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although lately it seems I've spent more time there than at home...grumble grumble.


Yeah, but I would put a Rad there instead of ripping it out for the bays...lol plus the rads on top and bottom.


----------



## Lazy Bear

I dunno if that's really a bad thing, that place is ballin'.


----------



## derickwm

Hehe eventually it wears off and is blahhh.


----------



## johnko1

Today I received xspc raystorm waterblock,thanks bundymania for the recommendation








In one week I will return from my village (getting some rest here) and set up the loop!!


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> I am with you, if you are going to water cool at least go the whole 9 yards and go overkill (2v on the ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Im also with you there.. just bought 4 of Koolance's Ram-33 waterblocks.
making one last liq. cooled comp (not making another
one for a while) and theme is basically overkill lol


----------



## solar0987

Pics








Still got some work to do but it has to wait till after the foldathon













[/URL


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still got some work to do but it has to wait till after the foldathon
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL


i dont usually like mixed colored tubing but im really liking what you got going on there, nice rig!!


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*


dang you and your dominators + ek nickel cooling block!








thats my next purchase on friday


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> dang you and your dominators + ek nickel cooling block!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats my next purchase on friday


I've wanted it for alooonng time now and i finally got it MUAHAHAHA

Still have to paint it black


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Not sure if anyone cares, but I managed to fit an old Apogee GT to my 1155 board. It would have fit without modification due to my board having both 1155 and 775 mounting holes, but if I used the 775 mounting position, the block would have ended up twisted at a 45 degree angle in respect to the motherboard. Which of course wouldn't do...I'm not really interested in the best performance, just wanted to replace the H80 I had been using with an old loop I had sitting around. All the mod required was to drill out the 775 mounting holes on the block to a larger size, as the mounting pattern of 1155 versus 775 is nearly the same, the 1155 just being a little larger. After the holes were re-drilled, I used my H80 back-plate and mounting system, along with a washer on each corner, to mount the Apogee GT. I also gave it a quick paint job to make it fit with the build a little better. I know it's not a very good block in this day and age, but I'm sure it will handle my 2500k just fine. Still leak testing, so I'm not sure of actual performance at this time.


----------



## derickwm

A couple horribly/quickly managed cables and tubing. Have new tubing & fittings coming from Monsoon shortly. My MIPS blocks should also be here soon.

I have also moved the pump/res combo to the lower chamber so it's not quite that awful


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What case is that? I should know but I've forgotten the name of it.


----------



## derickwm

CaseLabs STH10.


----------



## Plutonium10

I like it. That's a really nice-looking build.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple horribly/quickly managed cables and tubing. Have new tubing & fittings coming from Monsoon shortly. My MIPS blocks should also be here soon.
> I have also moved the pump/res combo to the lower chamber so it's not quite that awful


I have found that XSPC has a great orange tube that would match the paint and fans better








Sorry that it's a bit blurry. Cell phone is the only camera I have at the moment


----------



## derickwm

Mmm that is much nicer. Monsoon is sending me some clear tubing though


----------



## bomberjun

Just want to ask if these are signs of corrosion.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## munnis

case with wheels


----------



## derickwm

After I filled it up I'll tell ya I was not regretting getting them wheels!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Just want to ask if these are signs of corrosion.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Kinda hard to tell from those pics, but it looks like the nickel is flaking.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Nevermind.


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> After I filled it up I'll tell ya I was not regretting getting them wheels!


Can you take some close-up pixx from those fan hole covers with hole for tubing?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Just want to ask if these are signs of corrosion.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can you get closer and lose the flash? It's a bit difficult to tell. Could just be dirt.









~Ceadder


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can you get closer and lose the flash? It's a bit difficult to tell. Could just be dirt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dirt is just as bad haha

EDIT: Looks like flaking. Hard to tell with the reflection of the fittings


----------



## Fultonloyn

I really would like to test some clear tubing in my rig with some dye. At the moment, I am running Primoflex UV Blue. Anyone have any spare clear lying around? haha I would hate to buy it then not even like it...

Also, It has been awhile and I made a few small changes in my setup:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> I really would like to test some clear tubing in my rig with some dye. At the moment, I am running Primoflex UV Blue. Anyone have any spare clear lying around? haha I would hate to buy it then not even like it....


Uh tubing is like super cheap...


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Uh tubing is like super cheap...


Yeah, but at the moment so am i.

Plus, this is what the community is about right? The old sharing is caring bit? haha


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can you get closer and lose the flash? It's a bit difficult to tell. Could just be dirt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt is just as bad haha...
Click to expand...

Not really. That's fixable. Flaking is not.







lol

This is why I don't want a Nickel RAM block. If I can get one of their Copper units I would still see what I could do to seal the space between the flow channels and the top. The one place that nobody really does a good job of sealing. I don't understand why you need that many anyway. Instead of having a channel per DIMM they should make em 1 for every two or 3 DIMM. I understand some people fill all their slots but as has been pointed out, cooling DD3 is more for the blingage.

Probably could run a single channel with no ribs and do just as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Still bad









I've got a MIPS and EK Nickel block. (Got both for $30)

And in MountainDewCooled rebuild I'll be using the MIPS ahha

Got an EVGA X58 3 Way Classy with a full cover block for the rebuild


----------



## bundymania

Worldpremiere


----------



## sortableturnip

My current rig:


----------



## SenorRed

I have many new things coming...


----------



## PCModderMike

I know it's been thrown around in here a few times, and it's killing me that I can't find it...can someone please post that pic of the new Bitspower white compression fittings that are about to be released?

EDIT: Here's the barb, found that no problem...Google has failed me though when looking for that compression fitting.....


----------



## protzman

I can't decide if that completely copper rad is terribly ugly or like do ugly it's kinds sweet looking actually!?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> I can't decide if that completely copper rad is terribly ugly or *so ugly it's kinda sweet looking* actually!?


Fixed and agreed.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> I can't decide if that completely copper rad is terribly ugly or like do ugly it's kinds sweet looking actually!?


Imagine if this rad brings the best temps of all triple rads available atm. I guess you and/or many other users worldwide would buy it even when it´s pink with black stripes !









I like the copper look , with copper fittings and some black details it would look awesome

Setup from jbfem:


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Imagine if this rad brings the best temps of all triple rads available atm. I guess you and/or many other users worldwide would buy it even when it´s pink with black stripes !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the copper look , with copper fittings and some black details it would look awesome
> Setup from jbfem:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is awesome! That rad would def. look good in that rig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I know it's been thrown around in here a few times, and it's killing me that I can't find it...can someone please post that pic of the new Bitspower white compression fittings that are about to be released?
> EDIT: Here's the barb, found that no problem...Google has failed me though when looking for that compression fitting.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Here you go buddy!


----------



## PCModderMike

I would rep you, because you're so helpful....buuuuut, yea


----------



## mironccr345

awww, that sucks.









No worries, just helping you out.


----------



## Fonne

Highflow got the White Bitspower ...

http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/white/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I would rep you, because you're so helpful....buuuuut, yea










Why for not? Am I missing somethin?









~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why for not? Am I missing somethin?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Friends don't let friends +rep eachother....against ToS when you actually know them? If memory serves me right...

~Mike








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Highflow got the White Bitspower ...
> http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/white/


Nice! Would you happen to know of any place in the US?


----------



## mironccr345

But we're all friends on OCN.....right?


----------



## lowfat

I love the bare copper fins on that Coolgate rad, not a fan of the copper fan mounts though.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm not sure how to proceed with that though. Yeah it's against ToS, but the post was helpful.

However, I am sure the idea behind that is to minimize over repping w/o a valid reason. If it's valid I don't see how that should stop the Rep.









I saw those BPs' and thought about a change from White tubing to White fittings and Black tubing. That would look SICK! imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> I can't decide if that completely copper rad is terribly ugly or like do ugly it's kinds sweet looking actually!?


Copper on copper? I thought that was copper fins and gold plated housing...


----------



## Canis-X

^ Nice avatar man....LMAO


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> After I filled it up I'll tell ya I was not regretting getting them wheels!
> 
> 
> 
> Can you take some close-up pixx from those fan hole covers with hole for tubing?
Click to expand...

What...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> After I filled it up I'll tell ya I was not regretting getting them wheels!
> 
> 
> 
> Can you take some close-up pixx from those fan hole covers with hole for tubing?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What...
Click to expand...

I think he means take a pic through the fan spaces so we can get an idea how your tubing is routed. Or something like that...

@Canis-X either your mind rolled into the gutter or that's an arrow for where not to stand or walk.









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Is that orange paint UV reactive? I can only imagine how spectacular that would look when it's all lit up under UV lamps.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Nice copper Rad.
about time. High heat transfer rate.
if people had the money a solid silver rad would be the best
though. lol.. but i don't see that one happening anytime
soon..or ever.lol.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Nice copper Rad.
> about time. High heat transfer rate.
> if people had the money a solid silver rad would be the best
> though. lol.. but i don't see that one happening anytime
> soon..or ever.lol.


About time? Aqua computer has had a shiny copper read in shiny alu fan mount in their Airplex rads for some time...those rads too are pricey.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> About time? Aqua computer has had a shiny copper read in shiny alu fan mount in their Airplex rads for some time...those rads too are pricey.


why how much they run for?


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> why how much they run for?


Lots:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14274/ex-rad-306/Aquacomputer_Airplex_Modularity_System_360_Radiator_-_Copper_Fins_-_Dual_Circuit_33037.html?tl=g30c95s161


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Just want to ask if these are signs of corrosion.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They look very suspicious to me almost like yes flaking as they are a darker color than the nickel.
I would take apart the loop


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mmm that is much nicer. Monsoon is sending me some clear tubing though


Are you going to be using a dye or anything other than distilled water instead then?


----------



## rotary7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> They look very suspicious to me almost like yes flaking as they are a darker color than the nickel.
> I would take apart the loop


That looks like the nickel is flaking off, call EK and tell them to stop cheaping out


----------



## rotary7

hey derickwm, is that you in your avatar? if so then damn! lol


----------



## iama842

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I love the bare copper fins on that Coolgate rad, not a fan of the copper fan mounts though.


So you like the looks of the aqua computer airplex?


----------



## kzim9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Worldpremiere


I like it. Being a plumber, copper = money to me ....


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iama842*
> 
> So you like the looks of the aqua computer airplex?


I like the way it looks, yes. REALLY dislike the outrageous price and I also dislike the fact that it uses round tubes.


----------



## Canis-X

LOL


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> hey derickwm, is that you in your avatar? if so then damn! lol


Yes.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes.


Derickwm is a cat/chick hybrid. Known for an aversion to cat-nip and owning lots of shoes across the internet.


----------



## derickwm

OMG. Shoes.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> OMG. Shoes.


Shoes Nom NOm NOM!


----------



## Canis-X

So what's the story with the avatar.....little background.... Halloween party I assume.....what is being said though, I can't make it out.

Edit....ok, Lights....got it! Sorry, too much vodka this evening.....LOL.....can't sleep lately.

http://music.iamlights.com/


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> So what's the story with the avatar.....little background.... Halloween party I assume.....what is being said though, I can't make it out.
> Edit....ok, Lights....got it! Sorry, too much vodka this evening.....LOL.....can't sleep lately.
> http://music.iamlights.com/


Just down some more shots and you'll be out in a few


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> So what's the story with the avatar.....little background.... Halloween party I assume.....what is being said though, I can't make it out.
> Edit....ok, Lights....got it! Sorry, too much vodka this evening.....LOL.....can't sleep lately.
> http://music.iamlights.com/


Who are you asking?


----------



## derickwm

Funny you say Halloween party, I was born on Halloween


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Funny you say Halloween party, I was born on Halloween


uh oh


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Funny you say Halloween party, I was born on Halloween


''

Judging from your latest build, everyday will be Halloween from now on.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> Who are you asking?


derickwm







She's hot man (referring to his avatar)...Darth-space....not so much......funny yes though...LOL









mmmmmmmmmmmmmm wadka herp derp
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Funny you say Halloween party, I was born on Halloween


My twin daughters were born on Christmas morning.....they are NOT going to like that when they get older...


----------



## tsm106

Really? I always thought it was Boxxy lol.


----------



## solar0987

I think he is drunk and hitting on you









I'll do it sober hahaha


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> derickwm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She's hot man (referring to his avatar)...Darth-space....not so much......funny yes though...LOL


Wasn't sure cause you asked what "it said"...lol


----------



## derickwm

Back to WC'ing chatter!


----------



## superericla

I should have a second XSPC EX420 sitting on my doorstep in ~11 hours.


----------



## munnis

let me guess someone stole your ex420?


----------



## superericla

Nope, just getting a second one.


----------



## johnko1

Hello.Where can I find some 45 rotary adapters (europe).Aquatuning has alot but shipping is a bit pricey considering that rotaries are very small








HIghflow maybe?


----------



## derickwm

Pump wasn't bleeding properly after I moved it into the STH10. Just adjusted it and holy crap my rig is 10000x quieter. Love the Cougar fans


----------



## mandrix

Progress to date. Have to finalize the res mount, obviously, and clean up wiring, sleeve SATA data cables.


----------



## gliggo

Switched my girlfriend's loop from Mayhems Pastel Ice White to Mayhems Pastel Blue dye









Big thumbs up to Mayhems Dyes, no staining or clogs, cleaned with ease! (Y)

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Back to WC'ing chatter!


Derickwm likes it rough.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Progress to date. Have to finalize the res mount, obviously, and clean up wiring, sleeve SATA data cables.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switched my girlfriend's loop from Mayhems Pastel Ice White to Mayhems Pastel Blue dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big thumbs up to Mayhems Dyes, no staining or clogs, cleaned with ease! (Y)
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


Good looking rig guys. Love that pastel Blue!


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Is there any benefit to sandblasting your rad? If its copper or aluminum, taking the paint off would give you any lower temps or better heat transfer? Is there any benefit to this? Is there any chance of damaging the radiator if I do sandblast it?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switched my girlfriend's loop from Mayhems Pastel Ice White to Mayhems Pastel Blue dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big thumbs up to Mayhems Dyes, no staining or clogs, cleaned with ease! (Y)
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


Kind of a fail on that first pic haha, but great looking rig. Very good use of space inside the 600T, love it


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switched my girlfriend's loop from Mayhems Pastel Ice White to Mayhems Pastel Blue dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big thumbs up to Mayhems Dyes, no staining or clogs, cleaned with ease! (Y)
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of a fail on that first pic haha, but great looking rig. Very good use of space inside the 600T, love it
Click to expand...

Haha yeah fail phone pic, rotated itself when it uploaded









And thanks mate









Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Funny you say Halloween party, I was born on Halloween


Haha, that's kewl. My Grandfather was born on Halloween. Took some rock salt in the keester going over a fence on one of his birthdays for tipping over the wrong outhouse with some old man in it. As I recall correctly he was almost clear of the fence when BLAM!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Back to WC'ing chatter!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Derickwm likes it rough.
Click to expand...











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Is there any benefit to sandblasting your rad? If its copper or aluminum, taking the paint off would give you any lower temps or better heat transfer? Is there any benefit to this? Is there any chance of damaging the radiator if I do sandblast it?


Yeah um, I wouldn't recommend sand blasting a copper finned Radiator. You'd be better off selling it and buying one that is made with exposed copper.









~Ceadder


----------



## protzman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switched my girlfriend's loop from Mayhems Pastel Ice White to Mayhems Pastel Blue dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big thumbs up to Mayhems Dyes, no staining or clogs, cleaned with ease! (Y)
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2






That's funny my gf also wanted white and blue themed!!


----------



## munnis

how big is different with 450l/h vs 700l/h pump?


----------



## carrotman

About 250 liters per hour.


----------



## munnis

temps please


----------



## superericla

Depends on the components being cooled, the restriction in the loop, ambient temps, flow rates, and more. There's no way to come up with temp numbers based only off of two pump flow rates.


----------



## munnis

so pointless go over 450l/h pump no gaines with bigger pump?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> so pointless go over 450l/h pump no gaines with bigger pump?


Not necessarily. As was stated it depends on the restrictions and what all you're cooling.

If you have a couple Radiators, GPU, FC, CPU and RAM block with quite a few 90s' , then I would suggest the higher lph flowrate. If you only have one Radiator and CPU with Res I wouldn't spend that much on a pump.

I have two of BMavs pumps in serial which do just fine with 1 as pump and the other as backup for my 360, CPU, FC and Res loop. Current ambient is 23.333c. Load temp is 38c with fans at 100% with 1 pump running.

I just kicked on the 2nd at 100% and will update what I find before the weather heats up.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

There are significant gains if your loop is more restrictive, it also depends on pump head pressure though.


----------



## munnis

my loop is 3/8''


----------



## superericla

That tells me absolutely nothing as far as restriction goes.


----------



## munnis

i have two radiators and 450 pump


----------



## superericla

What water blocks do you have, what radiators do you have, and what pump is that?


----------



## munnis

120mm + 240mm rads, 450pump, cpu block with led


----------



## superericla

Upgrading to a 700 L/min pump should provide a few degrees cooler temps, there's no way to know exactly how much cooler it'll get without you trying it yourself.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> so pointless go over 450l/h pump no gaines with bigger pump?
> 
> 
> 
> Not necessarily. As was stated it depends on the restrictions and what all you're cooling.
> 
> If you have a couple Radiators, GPU, FC, CPU and RAM block with quite a few 90s' , then I would suggest the higher lph flowrate. If you only have one Radiator and CPU with Res I wouldn't spend that much on a pump.
> 
> I have two of BMavs pumps in serial which do just fine with 1 as pump and the other as backup for my 360, CPU, FC and Res loop. Current ambient is 23.333c. Load temp is 38c with fans at 100% with 1 pump running.
> 
> I just kicked on the 2nd at 100% and will update what I find before the weather heats up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Well after about a half hour ambient ~1c difference the 2nd pump did nothing but increased the temp of the system by 1c from what I can see.

Now if I'd have had a 2nd Radiator and my GPU under water that might not have happened.









~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> how big is different with 450l/h vs 700l/h pump?


Flow rate has generally no impact on water temperature. But those numbers are useless w/o knowing what exactly you have in your loop.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Components mate


----------



## munnis

lowfat asked what loop i have


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

That doesn't just mean tubing size.


----------



## munnis

then what loop stand for?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> lowfat asked what loop i have


Yeah as in what the hell are you running.

CPU?

GPU?

Motherboard?

RAM?

HDD?

PSU?

What the hell are you running? Do you have angle fittings? If so what kind? 45s' or 90s'.

"3/8" don't tell us jack squat on crackers as to what kind of restrictions you're running.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

It doesn't stand for anything. The "loop" being referred to is all of the components that make up your water cooling system, from pumps, to radiators, to water blocks, and even tubing.


----------



## munnis

no 45 and no 90 only straight piping
codegen 450w
cpu block with led
450pump
120mm + 240mm rads


----------



## ikem

*grabs popcorn*

nom nom nom nom


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> no 45 and no 90 *only straight piping*


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> then what loop stand for?


Loop doesn't stand for anything. A loop is the name for a watercooling system essentially. It is comprised of a pump, radiator (phase changer/heat exchanger) , component waterblock (cpu, ram, hard drive, gpu, motherboard), tubing to connect everything together and a reservoir that holds the coolant.


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*


Don't be a nazi







I'm sure he's talking about tubing... although he could be using PVC piping or copper piping. Who knows?


----------



## munnis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*


thats straight piping http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk/images/D/BP-BSWP-C02--600X400--01.jpg
no 45 or 90 degrees pipes


----------



## superericla

^lul


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> thats straight piping http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk/images/D/BP-BSWP-C02--600X400--01.jpg
> no 45 or 90 degrees pipes


You mean barbs? That's what those are called.


----------



## superericla

Entertainment at its finest.


----------



## lowfat

Who manufacturers your waterblocks, your radiators, your pumps, etc?


----------



## strych9

Come on guys may be he doesn't know the correct names, why not just correct him without making fun?


----------



## munnis

rads and pump are hydroscand and cpu block is noname


----------



## superericla

Hmm, I've never heard of hydroscand. Could you link to their website?


----------



## munnis

http://www.hydroscand.ee/


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Come on guys may be he doesn't know the correct names, why not just correct him without making fun?


Are you talking about the meme? or the following quotes? If you didn't see it there was a meme that was just deleted. If you did, ignore me.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Entertainment at its finest.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> ^lul


----------



## mironccr345

Also, filling out your sig rig would be helpful.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArkAngel666*
> 
> Are you talking about the meme? or the following quotes? If you didn't see it there was a meme that was just deleted. If you did, ignore me.


This. I would never make fun of someone that's new to water cooling, I was in that position once just as everyone else was.


----------



## munnis

phenom x6 4ghz
gtx480
samsung 500gb
codegen 450w
120mm+240mm rad
straight barbs
3/8'' tubes
450pump
990fxa-ud5
noname cpu block
5gb ddr3 1600mhz


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> phenom x6 4ghz
> gtx480
> samsung 500gb
> codegen 450w
> 120mm+240mm rad
> straight barbs
> 3/8'' tubes
> 450pump
> 990fxa-ud5
> noname cpu block
> 5gb ddr3 1600mhz


Use the RigBuilder







Allows you to put your system specs below all your posts. Makes it look neat and all that jazz


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Munnis,start a thread if you want help,this is not the thread for that.


----------



## carrotman

munnis, maybe a picture can help us. Take a picture of the *inside* of your computer please.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Munnis,start a thread if you want help,this is not the thread for that.


Don't be so negative.







Their are a lot of OCN members willing to help in this thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Don't be so negative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Their are a lot of OCN members willing to help in this thread.


Maybe they can help in his own thread instead of clogging this one up?
You can give better help step by step that way.


----------



## Canis-X




----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> This. I would never make fun of someone that's new to water cooling, I was in that position once just as everyone else was.


Maybe I went a little overboard, with poking fun. But honestly, I'm all for helping someone out. I actually do it for a living, helping people everyday, over and over and over....hmm starting to make myself depressed, haha jk, but really. There's a difference between someone asking for help, and someone asking to be spoon fed. IMHO, I felt like he was the latter of those two, but again that's just my opinion. Maybe it is just a legitimate lack of knowledge, and he couldn't cough up the info....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe they can help in his own thread instead of clogging this one up?
> You can give better help step by step that way.


QFT


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Maybe I went a little overboard, with poking fun. But honestly, I'm all for helping someone out. I actually do it for a living, helping people everyday, over and over and over....hmm starting to make myself depressed, haha jk, but really. There's a difference between someone asking for help, and someone asking to be spoon fed. IMHO, I felt like he was the latter of those two, but again that's just my opinion. Maybe it is just a legitimate lack of knowledge, and he couldn't cough up the info....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QFT


It's difficult sometimes to figure out which it is. Since he linked to the Estonian version of the Hydroscand website, English may be a second language for him which would explain some of the difficulties he's having.


----------



## Rickles

can I join the cool kids club?


----------



## superericla

Welcome to the club! What kind of tubing is that, it looks nice in your loop.


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> can I join the cool kids club?


Purrrrple.







Not bad









How is your reservoir attached? Is it that little metal tab sticking out just in front of it?


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Welcome to the club! What kind of tubing is that, it looks nice in your loop.


\

its primochill uv blue, and I have a few slight kinks in a couple spots, but I think that is because I left the tube a little long. I don't think it will be much of an issue though, because the h60 can't pump that much water anyways.

And the res is attached by two U shaped tabs screwed to an L shaped one, screwed into the fan mount on top.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It's difficult sometimes to figure out which it is. Since he linked to the Estonian version of the Hydroscand website, English may be a second language for him which would explain some of the difficulties he's having.


This is true
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> can I join the cool kids club?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Ooooo!


Very nice, is the tubing UV reactive? Hard to tell


----------



## Rickles

Yes it is UV reactive, but I have to have just about every other light source off for it to be really noticeable.

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/image/view/id/966027/album/705755 11 photo gallery.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Yes it is UV reactive, but I have to have just about every other light source off for it to be really noticeable.
> http://www.overclock.net/gallery/image/view/id/966027/album/705755 11 photo gallery.


You also using this kit : http://www.sharkoon.com/?q=en/content/ccfl-2-1-kit ? This is how that set looks with some Mayhem dye.


----------



## munnis

i use my car extra rear windsheald brake light what was with my car when i boughted that and i taked it out and installed in my pc case,


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> i use my car extra rear windsheald brake light what was with my car when i boughted that and i taked it out and installed in my pc case,










after reading the last few pages of the thread Ive figured out the problem. It's not lack of a brain its more of a language barrier i'm afraid.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> i use my car extra rear windsheald brake light what was with my car when i boughted that and i taked it out and installed in my pc case,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after reading the last few pages of the thread Ive figured out the problem. It's not lack of a brain its more of a language barrier i'm afraid.
Click to expand...

+1


----------



## munnis

its called laziness








i must think too much to write right


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> its called laziness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i must think too much to write right


google translate


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> google translate


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> its called laziness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i must think too much to write right


When your on a forum that speaks mainly English it helps to put some effort in it. Especially if you need help with something, because if you can't describe what your needing help with properly we won't be able to help you and some will just plain laugh at you.
Like the member above me google translate always helps.


----------



## protzman

#boooyah


----------



## Rickles

I have 2 12 in and 2 6 inch, they are just the generally crappy logisys ones


----------



## munnis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I have 2 12 in and 2 6 inch, they are just the generally crappy logisys ones


you talk about speakers ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCni2hnGOP0


----------



## Krahe

wow, way to derail a thread


----------



## randomnerd865




----------



## munnis

1 or 2 ?, yellow is psu with fan


----------



## mironccr345

On another note.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> On another note.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dat coolant


----------



## protzman

wawawewah


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> 1 or 2 ?, yellow is psu with fan
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


2 for sure


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> 1 or 2 ?, yellow is psu with fan


are their any other exhaust ports? with or w/o fans or rads on them?


----------



## xRehab

Glad I can finally post in here. Just finished my first WC build hours ago, and have it up and running. Still going through the test stages and don't even have the GPU back in but it works and so far no leaks!



Spoiler: Hosing it down









the first pic is when I was just setting up the hosing, and I pulled the GPU before leak testing. I will come back with more pics once it is all cleaned up and everything is how I want it.

It is all in a NZXT Switch 810 and I was able to fit 250 FrozenQ reservoir in there without much trouble


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRehab*
> 
> Glad I can finally post in here. Just finished my first WC build hours ago, and have it up and running. Still going through the test stages and don't even have the GPU back in but it works and so far no leaks!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Hosing it down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the first pic is when I was just setting up the hosing, and I pulled the GPU before leak testing. I will come back with more pics once it is all cleaned up and everything is how I want it.
> It is all in a NZXT Switch 810 and I was able to fit 250 FrozenQ reservoir in there without much trouble


Congrats on the build and welcome to the club


----------



## Shogon

Paradox up and running...finally!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!































































Big thank you to Dohn over at Xigmatek for sending me a new side panel free of charge! No longer will a scratch the size of a pencil be seen!

All EK blocks, Bitspower fittings, XSPC RX240 and dual bay res+pump, Black Ice GTX Extreme 360, 10 AP-15s, X850 from Seasonic, G. Skill Tridents,and an Elysium to stuff it all in!


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRehab*
> 
> Glad I can finally post in here. Just finished my first WC build hours ago, and have it up and running. Still going through the test stages and don't even have the GPU back in but it works and so far no leaks!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Hosing it down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the first pic is when I was just setting up the hosing, and I pulled the GPU before leak testing. I will come back with more pics once it is all cleaned up and everything is how I want it.
> It is all in a NZXT Switch 810 and I was able to fit 250 FrozenQ reservoir in there without much trouble


Very nice looking







I am planning on going with a green colored theme myself within the next month or 2. What tubing are you using? I'm planning on going with primochill but I have been hearing a lot of bad things lately about it lately.


----------



## xRehab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Very nice looking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am planning on going with a green colored theme myself within the next month or 2. What tubing are you using? I'm planning on going with primochill but I have been hearing a lot of bad things lately about it lately.


Thats the primochill UV green in there, I love it. Amazing bend radius and feels very strong and durable.

If you are going all green be ready to splurge on the gigabyte sniper boards, only ones I could find in green. Worth every penny tho


----------



## munnis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> are their any other exhaust ports? with or w/o fans or rads on them?


No, only psu fan is exhaust port, and these red things are 120mm and 240mm rads with fans


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> No, only psu fan is exhaust port, and these red things are 120mm and 240mm rads with fans


I may be wrong, but I am not sure the PSU is enough of a exhaust for that


----------



## munnis

then number 1 drawing is better?


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> then number 1 drawing is better?


It really depends on whether you want positive or negative air pressure...
Quote:


> Computer chassis are typically equipped with many case fans, some are designed for exhaust and others for intake. When intake fans' combined airflow is greater than exhaust, a positive pressure is created inside the chassis. Conversely, when the airflow is greater for exhaust than it is for intake, a negative pressure is created.


One keeps the dust out to a greater degree (positive) and one gives slightly better temps (negative). You also need to take the intake vs the exhaust CFMs (Cubic feet per minute (air flow)) into account for the fans. Every fan gives a different CFM, from my experience the PSU fan is not always easy to find the CFMs for

With positive air flow, the excess air will push out through any cracks in the case in addition to the available exhaust ports, while negative airflow will suck in air through those same cracks as well as dust and other partials.


----------



## munnis

i want cooler cpu temps


----------



## superericla

To get cooler CPU temps, it's best to have any radiators as intakes as that pushes cooler air through to cool the water more effectively. Your motherboard temps will increase, but the CPU temps will decrease. I would set the back fan as an exhaust to get rid of any excess hot air from the PSU and building up inside the case.


----------



## munnis

so you prefer that number 1 setup?


----------



## superericla

Basically, yes. If the PSU fan is faced downwards and blows air from the case into the PSU and out the back, using the number 2 setup will most likely recirculate the hot PSU air back into the PSU.


----------



## munnis

i dont know how do to, can you do to me theards?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> i dont know how do to, can you do to me theards?


----------



## carrotman

munnis, you have started two threads already, how could you not know how?


----------



## munnis

my friend helped me but she is no right here now


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> *grabs popcorn*
> nom nom nom nom


Hey buddy I know this is off topic but just saw your rig on CPU magazine CONGRATS!!!


----------



## LuckyNumber13

And it begins...
the start of my second build.
putting order for pump and cpu block on monday.
also soon to come a quad 120mm rad w/push/pull fan config + FC9.
anyone use any of Mayhem's Aurora and if so what's the
change over time for when you should clean your loop with that stuff.
i heard you can only keep it for a limited amount of time.but wow looks cool.








i'm using FluidXp clear/uv blue. but want something differnt in new one.


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys just I just wanted to say Thank You to all of you for the support the last few weeks with my families issues. Sad to say but my wifes mom lost her fight with cancer thursday. I'm just taking alil time out to let everyone here know and again to say Thanks for all the support. RIP Mom You'll always be in our Hearts


----------



## derickwm

Will be here Wednesday. <3 Koolance


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> Will be here Wednesday. <3 Koolance


That looks alot like my shopping cart with koolance...lol


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Will be here Wednesday. <3 Koolance


gotta say, i too am a fan of koolance with my 100 qdc's. High quality merch!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just I just wanted to say Thank You to all of you for the support the last few weeks with my families issues. Sad to say but my wifes mom lost her fight with cancer thursday. I'm just taking alil time out to let everyone here know and again to say Thanks for all the support. RIP Mom You'll always be in our Hearts


I'm very sorry to here this.


----------



## Forrester

here's my finished loop













click for a better view


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I'm very sorry to here this.


Thanks Goodink


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> Will be here Wednesday. <3 Koolance


I have that same pump and running it over 12v didn't seem to help my temps at all...in fact, they rose a degree or 2 (I'm assuming it's because the heat from the pump was transferring into the cooling loop.) It could be due to the fact that I only have a 120x2 rad in my current setup(?) Have you had success in getting better temps using higher volts?


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I have that same pump and running it over 12v didn't seem to help my temps at all...in fact, they rose a degree or 2 (I'm assuming it's because the heat from the pump was transferring into the cooling loop.) It could be due to the fact that I only have a 120x2 rad in my current setup(?) Have you had success in getting better temps using higher volts?


The use of higher voltage pumps isn't really meant to affect temps, but like you said they can affect them by adding heat into the loop from working harder. I believe (please correct me if I'm wrong someone) the purpose for say a 24V pump is to speed up flow if the loop is a restrictive one and to increase the head of the pressure I think it's called... I know it has "head" in it somewhere lmao, but yeah it mainly helps if you have a large loop and the water needs to be pushed up and down a case a lot or needs to go further than what a 12V pump could deliver. I think that's about it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Will be here Wednesday. <3 Koolance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gotta say, i too am a fan of koolance with my 100 qdc's. High quality merch!
Click to expand...

I only have their QDC fan posts and black nickel VGA Connection but I too am a fan of Koolance.









@chino1974... Sorry to hear bro, hope she's found peace in God's kingdom.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArkAngel666*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I have that same pump and running it over 12v didn't seem to help my temps at all...in fact, they rose a degree or 2 (I'm assuming it's because the heat from the pump was transferring into the cooling loop.) It could be due to the fact that I only have a 120x2 rad in my current setup(?) Have you had success in getting better temps using higher volts?
> 
> 
> 
> The use of higher voltage pumps isn't really meant to affect temps, but like you said they can affect them by adding heat into the loop from working harder. I believe (please correct me if I'm wrong someone) the purpose for say a 24V pump is to speed up flow if the loop is a restrictive one and to increase the head of the pressure I think it's called... I know it has "head" in it somewhere lmao, but yeah it mainly helps if you have a large loop and the water needs to be pushed up and down a case a lot or needs to go further than what a 12V pump could deliver. I think that's about it.
Click to expand...

Well most cases aren't large enough for pressure to be an issue. Those pumps should be for cooling setups with lots of restrictions. i.e. lots of restrictive fittings of the 90* variety with Multiple GPU blocks, CPU, RAM, HDD Mainboard and Radiators. The smaller the loop the more pressure in the system when using those type of pumps which would require a pressure relief valve somewhere in the system to keep from abusing the pump and possibly blowing lines. This is of course just my limited knowledge after a year and a half of research during the build process of my 1st loop. I'm no expert but hopefully I related it correctly. If not I'm sure someone will be there to catch me.









~Ceadder


----------



## chino1974

@chino1974... Sorry to hear bro, hope she's found peace in God's kingdom.

Ceadderman Thank You Very Much Brother. It funny but the last time I spoke to here she was asking me how my pc business was going and was telling me to keep doing what I like which is building and fixing pc's. Even though she didn't even know how to turn a computer on, she never even owned one but she still found at least enough interest in it to talk to me about it cause she knew it's what I love doing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> @chino1974... Sorry to hear bro, hope she's found peace in God's kingdom.
> 
> Ceadderman Thank You Very Much Brother. It funny but the last time I spoke to here she was asking me how my pc business was going and was telling me to keep doing what I like which is building and fixing pc's. Even though she didn't even know how to turn a computer on, she never even owned one but she still found at least enough interest in it to talk to me about it cause she knew it's what I love doing.


Sounds like she's a smart lady. The smart ones always know well enough to listen regardless if it interests them or not. Sadly there are fewer and fewer of those around.









~Ceadder


----------



## Canis-X

Chino, sorry for your loss brother. My condolences to you and your family. May you find peace in eachother and comfort.


----------



## Plutonium10

I had planned on buying a GTX 670 FTW for my build, but I just found a Radeon 7970 GHz edition for $450. Problem is it's of the Asus DCII variety. If I eventually decide to put it under water, would it be hard to find a full cover block?


----------



## derickwm

No.

Linky


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No.
> Linky


I also noticed that it looks like the DCii has sort of a full-cover heatsink for the VRMs and whatnot underneath the cooler. Could that be used effectively in conjunction with a universal block?


----------



## derickwm

Most likely yes. Not sure why you'd choose a universal over a full cover if one is available though


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Getting closer to completion boys!



Should be leak testing tomorrow!!!


----------



## derickwm

L2photo


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Getting closer to completion boys!
> 
> Should be leak testing tomorrow!!!


Looks good, but the photo itself is terrible.

Time for a new camera buddy!


----------



## derickwm

No, time to take some time


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My bad. Here's a couple of different pics:









Trying to complete the build with the cameras running for my YouTube channel is a bit ridiculous!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Most likely yes. Not sure why you'd choose a universal over a full cover if one is available though


This is true. Just wondering though.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I like it Majin SSJ Eric!

Beastly!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My bad. Here's a couple of different pics:
> 
> Trying to complete the build with the cameras running for my YouTube channel is a bit ridiculous!


Where did you get those 5.25" bay res mounts?


----------



## munnis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My bad. Here's a couple of different pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to complete the build with the cameras running for my YouTube channel is a bit ridiculous!


no video card?


----------



## derickwm

There are definitely two video cards in that rig...


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> no video card?


I see two video cards


----------



## jellis142

They sort of blend in don't they... I see two oddly oriented, and probably very dizzy, HD 7970's in there.


----------



## munnis

linuss used same case in her pc build this year


----------



## Shiikamaru

My type of sub. 8cm thick rad and 8x GT.

Guess the casing.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## munnis

what temps you see now and what cpu temps was before?


----------



## driftingforlife

Gime


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> 
> 
> My type of sub. 8cm thick rad and 8x GT.
> Guess the casing.


Now that's a nice rad!
















@derickwm Just noticed your folding rank is 69


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I also noticed that it looks like the DCii has sort of a full-cover heatsink for the VRMs and whatnot underneath the cooler. Could that be used effectively in conjunction with a universal block?


If you can't find a waterblock for your vid card, mobo or whatever i would suggest
making your own out of an existing one. Custom PC Magazine UK September 2012 has a
small but good article on how to make your own mobo waterblock (but i'm sure
you can adapt that to other parts as well ie. vid card). there are other
places to get instructions for that also..pretty easy actually.
i'll prob make one for my new mobo just for the hell of it.
DIY are always the most fun projects. (and usually cheaper)


----------



## TPE-331

@Shiikamaru, CaseLabs STH10?


----------



## Shiikamaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> @Shiikamaru, CaseLabs STH10?


BINGO


----------



## 16ReasonsWhy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> 
> 
> My type of sub. 8cm thick rad and 8x GT.
> Guess the casing.


Very nice looking rad. Looks like a case labs side mount?

I'm about to post a pic of my latest M8 and first loop ever!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> If you can't find a waterblock for your vid card, mobo or whatever i would suggest
> making your own out of an existing one. Custom PC Magazine UK September 2012 has a
> small but good article on how to make your own mobo waterblock (but i'm sure
> you can adapt that to other parts as well ie. vid card). there are other
> places to get instructions for that also..pretty easy actually.
> i'll prob make one for my new mobo just for the hell of it.
> DIY are always the most fun projects. (and usually cheaper)


Eventually I would like to CNC machine my own GPU block after figuring out a good thermal design in Solidworks. But I don't learn how to run CNC until next year.


----------



## opt33

My rebuild with XSPC cpu block, GTX 680 w/HC, 360 xspc rad, sr1 280 rad, and massive res air bubbles. Definitely need inflow tubes (like EK/BP res) below water line for bleeding. New BP 270mm res coming in few days this one was couple inches too tall anyways.


----------



## phillyd

getting this res with some other things for a switch 810 build soon. check out the SwitchBox in my sig!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*


You should paint the heat-spreaders on your Dominators to match your color scheme. They stick out like sore thumbs.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Chino, sorry for your loss brother. My condolences to you and your family. May you find peace in eachother and comfort.


Thank You Brother


----------



## n0n44m

Finished my watercooled *Fractal Design Define XL* !







see Build Log in sig for more pics/details











Spoiler: Watercooling equipment list :




*Two* Aquacomputer Aquastream XT pumps
EK Multioption Res 100
EK Supreme HF Acetal CPU block with Easy-Mount & Jet Plate #6
*Two* Watercool Heatkiller GTX 680 LT blocks
Watercool motherboard VRM blocks
Aquacomputer *Aquaero 5 PRO*
Aquacomputer in-line sensors (2), case temp sensors (4), High-Flow Meter, RGB LED, ATX Power Break
Aquacomputer *in-line filter*
Koolance VL3N Quick Disconnects; 4 male 4 female
18 EK compression fittings
8 Alphacool rotary fittings; four 90° & four 45°
Masterkleer 10/13 tubing, UV Blue internal & White External
Primochill anti-kink coil for external tubing
5 Bitspower pass-through ports, 9 Bitspower stop fittings, 1 Bitspower Extender and 1 Bitspower male-male connector
Enzotech 3-way block
Watercool MO-RA 3 *9*140* PRO radiator
2 Watercool MO-RA 140 radiator grills, MO-RA radiator feet
3 Yate-Loon 900 rpm & 6 Yate-Loon 1200 rpm 140mm radiator fans
1 Noiseblocker PK2 140mm case fan, 1 Be-Quiet! 80 mm PWM fan
Distilled Water with a Silver kill-coil


----------



## Lazy Bear

Looks great n0n44m!


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys have a question that would be appreciated if answered









How much air flow am I really losing by not cutting this case away? And is it enough that I should cut it away?
I did it on my other Vulcan but I figured I would leave this one intact unless I have to.
Here is what I am talking about.



Thanks for the help!


----------



## Saurian

Hey everyone!

I've been lurking on OCN for a couple months now, and seeing as I'm going to build a new comp in the near future (once I can scrounge up some funds), I thought I'd make an account. I won't go through a whole TL;DR about why I've decided to water cool a computer but it involves a lot of boredom while being in-patient. Anyway, I was hoping I could get some advice on this possible build.

1) I'll be going to college next year after I finish up some leftover work, so I'll be using a Silverstone FT03 as my case (for portability and size).


Spoiler: FT03, how small!






2) Because of this, I'll need to water cool both the processor and gpu if I want to overclock in a case that small.

Anyway, here's what I have in mind:

BASE COMPONENTS:


Spoiler: Nothing too special!



*Intel Core i7-3820 3.6 GHz* Will OC once system is stable
*Corsair Vengance 32GB DDR3 1600MHz Ram* Great ram for OC'ing
*Silverstone Fortress Series FT03B Black*
*EVGA GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB* Uses 680 pcb so I can use a 680 full body water block
*CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX750* might need to upgrade
*Corsair Force Series GS 2.5" 180GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive)*
*Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 7200RPM*
*ASRock X79 EXTREME4-M LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard*


WATER COOLING COMPONENTS:


Spoiler: Big List!



1 *Bitspower Summit EF CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Intel LGA Series - Ice Black Acrylic* Hopefully this allows 1/2"x3/4" compression fittings
1 *HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680 "Hole Edition" Reference Design Full Coverage Water Block* Will wait and purchase the black one, or just go with the copper stylings
14 or so *Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - Matte Black* Hopefully I have enough








1 *Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter*
3 *Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter*
1 *Bitspower Mini Water Tank Plus DDC Pump Attachement Reservoir w/ Filter*
7ft *Tygon B-44-4X 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) - "Non-Porous" Smooth Tubing* Let me know if you think there's a better clear tubing I can use
1 *Bitspower Matte Black Sealing Plug For ID 1/2" Tube* Will be used for the fillport
1 *Bitspower Luxury Reusable 5/8" OD Hose Clamp - Black* Classy clamp for the plug
1 *Monsoon .999 Fine Silver Bullet Antimicrobial In-Line Bundle Pack* Not sure if necessary, let me know..
1 *Black Ice GTX Xtreme M160 Dual Pass Liquid Cooling Radiator - Dual 80mm* Used at bottom of case instead of standard dual 80mm fan intake
1 *Black Ice GTX Xtreme 120 Radiator - Black* Used at top of loop
1 *EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - 1L - UV Blue* Too little? Let me know.



*I'll decide on fans based on what you guys recommend.*

I'm using 1/2x3/4 tubing because I need all the fluid I can get flowing through the components. Do I need to get a separate reservoir or will the pump/res combo work? Will the inline silver corrode anything? I'll consider getting a second gtx 670 because that seems like it would be the largest bottleneck, but what do I know







. If I do get another card, should I go ahead and buy a higher watt psu?

Anyway, let me know, and thanks for your patience if you read this massive list







I'll follow up with a map of heat dissipation and my loop config.

*Edit 7/22 9:49PM:* Instead of a monsoon, maybe I should just use mayhem pastel?


----------



## Alfaa

Rearanged my loop after my pump died (note to self: dont let your water pump run dry!!) I think it looks much better after I got rid of the CD bay adapter.


----------



## zdude

http://www.overclock.net/t/1285223/is-this-the-best-i-can-do-for-my-budget/0_100#post_17767280

Can I get some help with this?


----------



## johnko1

ok guys,final components will be ordered tomorrow.45 and 90 adapters,2 extenders,blue xspc tubing(heard good stuff about them),silver coil and some gt ap-15.I have some questions about future upgrades:

1)The case I'm using is cm 690II advanced.I have currently installed a xspc ex240 on the top and in the future I may intall a vrm/mosfet block too.Would another 120mm rad (maybe ex120) be enough or should I install two?
2)I heard nickel and silver have problems co-existing in a loop?Is it true or it was just ek's [email protected]?

In this case I will go with cpu only loop because it is small.If I want to watercool my gpu too I'll use my testbench(in progress) or my old haf 932 (currently in a bad shape)
Thanks


----------



## hammerforged




----------



## phillyd

very nice! I'd use the white color rings on the fans.


----------



## DarkHayZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What fans are those?


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHayZe*
> 
> What fans are those?


These... Corsair Air Series.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread UPDATED.

Welcome to all the new watercoolers!

Im seeing some great builds,keep it up!

Mine is coming along nicely now...only another GFX card and blocks....and a Lamptron FC10....and finish the braiding.....and finish the front panel.....and finish the pipework for the cards......It goes on and on....


----------



## derickwm

Tell me about it


----------



## AVEPICS

*could I be in the club, got some pics of my new rig*


----------



## gliggo

Build in progress, just waiting on more parts to come this week. Can't wait









Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## chino1974

Guys how are those new Corsair fan as opposed to AeroCool Shark Series fans? I have 3 120mm Sharks in my rig right now on the top 360 rad. But I'm using stock NZXT 140mm fans everywhere else and was thinking of upgrading them. My options right now so far are A) More AeroCool Sharks but in 140mm size B) NZXT FZ LED's in 140mm or C) Corsair High Performance 140mm . I like the look of the Corsair but the Microcenter nearest me only has them in 120mm of all types in the 140mm size they only have the quiet ones and I would rather have the high performnce one since I have 2 NZXT Sentry Mixs I can use if need be.
B NEGATIVE your rig is coming out beautiful !!! I love it but will like it more once it's all done and is sitting on my desk







No but seriously keep up the good work you guys all give me so many ideas and inspiration for my builds. And also as alot of you know we've been going through some terribly tough times in my home. This is the place I come to to get my mind off of everything else and most of you guys have been very very supportive and understanding and I apreciate this from my heart and soul. You guys are like a extended family here. OCN ROCKS!!!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build in progress, just waiting on more parts to come this week. Can't wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


It is looking sexy.

But looks like you drop some silver


----------



## mandrix

Every time I see pics like hammerforgd posted with the fans spinning on the bottom reminds me of speakers. Not a bad thing at all.....can never have too many speakers.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a nice rig! keep the blue fans, looks different.


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build in progress, just waiting on more parts to come this week. Can't wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> It is looking sexy.
> 
> But looks like you drop some silver
Click to expand...

Thanks mate







haha I didn't even realize the silver was there till now, cheers!









Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice rig! keep the blue fans, looks different.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Red or Blue.









White...









Unless of course that is your theme and your case, tubing and fans need to be white...









~Ceadder


----------



## GoodInk

Dang, these Corsair fans are popping up all over the place.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thread UPDATED.
> Welcome to all the new watercoolers!
> Im seeing some great builds,keep it up!
> Mine is coming along nicely now...only another GFX card and blocks....and a Lamptron FC10....and finish the braiding.....and finish the front panel.....and finish the pipework for the cards......It goes on and on....


Im curious, as to the uses in which you will be using this build? It's got SOOOO much power!?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That is a nice rig! keep the blue fans, looks different.


Thanks! Ive had quite a few people say white but Im just not a big "fan" of the white. Everything else I have is blue and I will be using a blue nzxt led strip soon.

As far as the corsair fans, they are pretty awesome. Really excellent value when you get the 2 packs. The quiet editions are the way to go. .

Heres a good review:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uUXt7mE6Qg&feature=plcp


----------



## Plutonium10

Ok, so I had planned on only water cooling an overclocked 3570k, with a couple of AP-15s on a 2x120 rad. If I decided to add a card like, say, an HD 7970, would one extra 120 rad be enough to keep temps reasonable? I hear lots of different answers to this question.


----------



## xRehab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Ok, so I had planned on only water cooling an overclocked 3570k, with a couple of AP-15s on a 2x120 rad. If I decided to add a card like, say, an HD 7970, would one extra 120 rad be enough to keep temps reasonable? I hear lots of different answers to this question.


It would be close, much better if you could get another 240 in the loop. The gpus pump out some heat when under load, but you could probably squeeze by on a 120. definitely not recommended though.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Ok, so I had planned on only water cooling an overclocked 3570k, with a couple of AP-15s on a 2x120 rad. If I decided to add a card like, say, an HD 7970, would one extra 120 rad be enough to keep temps reasonable? I hear lots of different answers to this question.


Depends on a lot of factors. Radiator thickness, fins per inch, and fan speed.

You could get by with a 2x120mm I would think. You would need a thick radiator with a high fin density and some high rpm fans to dissipate the heat. Also depends on how much you plan to oc the 3570k. That will be the main heat source in your loop. If you have room for a single 120mm that will help even more.

Overall with a 2x120mm I wouldnt expect a very high overclock on either the gpu or cpu for reasonable temps.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRehab*
> 
> It would be close, much better if you could get another 240 in the loop. The gpus pump out some heat when under load, but you could probably squeeze by on a 120. definitely not recommended though.


Hmm... I'm using a 650D for this build so I can do a 240 and a 120 with no trouble but anything else will require a bit more work.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice rig! keep the blue fans, looks different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agreed. Red or Blue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless of course that is your theme and your case, tubing and fans need to be white...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

they can just be popped off and on, doesnt take long to switch them


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice rig! keep the blue fans, looks different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agreed. Red or Blue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless of course that is your theme and your case, tubing and fans need to be white...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> they can just be popped off and on, doesnt take long to switch them
Click to expand...

for $90 worth of fans they better be able to do that.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

Razor GTX670 + Backplate





http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/gpu-waterblocks/razor-gtx670/
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/gpu-waterblocks/razor-gtx670-backplate/


----------



## mironccr345

Those look Really Nice!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Depends on a lot of factors. Radiator thickness, fins per inch, and fan speed.
> You could get by with a 2x120mm I would think. You would need a thick radiator with a high fin density and some high rpm fans to dissipate the heat. Also depends on how much you plan to oc the 3570k. That will be the main heat source in your loop. If you have room for a single 120mm that will help even more.
> Overall with a 2x120mm I wouldnt expect a very high overclock on either the gpu or cpu for reasonable temps.


I will push the 3570k as far as I can just out of curiosity and do some benchmarks, but I'll probably run it at a more reasonable 4.5 GHz on a regular basis if temps are OK. GPU overclocking is less important to me, so I won't be doing anything too crazy. I plan on using 2 of the 1850 rpm Gentle Typhoons on a Swiftech MCR220-XP rad, but that's subject to change depending on what kind of space I have to work with. Same idea for the 120mm rad.


----------



## derickwm

Makes me happy that XSPC is adding all sorts of new things to the WC'ing world


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Im curious, as to the uses in which you will be using this build? It's got SOOOO much power!?


BOINC.
Gaming.
Impressing Gurls.

In that order.


----------



## Saurian

What kind of speeds and temps would I be looking at for an i7-3820 and a gtx 670 in a single loop with a 120mm rad and a dual 80mm? I'd probably have to mod the bottom of the case to support push/pull for the 80mm's. Here is an idea for what I'm thinking about doing:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Here's a list of possible components:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> I've been lurking on OCN for a couple months now, and seeing as I'm going to build a new comp in the near future (once I can scrounge up some funds), I thought I'd make an account. I won't go through a whole TL;DR about why I've decided to water cool a computer but it involves a lot of boredom while being in-patient. Anyway, I was hoping I could get some advice on this possible build.
> 1) I'll be going to college next year after I finish up some leftover work, so I'll be using a Silverstone FT03 as my case (for portability and size).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FT03, how small!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Because of this, I'll need to water cool both the processor and gpu if I want to overclock in a case that small.
> Anyway, here's what I have in mind:
> BASE COMPONENTS:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Nothing too special!
> 
> 
> 
> *Intel Core i7-3820 3.6 GHz* Will OC once system is stable
> *Corsair Vengance 32GB DDR3 1600MHz Ram* Great ram for OC'ing
> *Silverstone Fortress Series FT03B Black*
> *EVGA GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB* Uses 680 pcb so I can use a 680 full body water block
> *CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX750* might need to upgrade
> *Corsair Force Series GS 2.5" 180GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive)*
> *Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 7200RPM*
> *ASRock X79 EXTREME4-M LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard*
> 
> 
> WATER COOLING COMPONENTS:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Big List!
> 
> 
> 
> 1 *Bitspower Summit EF CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Intel LGA Series - Ice Black Acrylic* Hopefully this allows 1/2"x3/4" compression fittings
> 1 *HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680 "Hole Edition" Reference Design Full Coverage Water Block* Will wait and purchase the black one, or just go with the copper stylings
> 14 or so *Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - Matte Black* Hopefully I have enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 *Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter*
> 3 *Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter*
> 1 *Bitspower Mini Water Tank Plus DDC Pump Attachement Reservoir w/ Filter*
> 7ft *Tygon B-44-4X 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) - "Non-Porous" Smooth Tubing* Let me know if you think there's a better clear tubing I can use
> 1 *Bitspower Matte Black Sealing Plug For ID 1/2" Tube* Will be used for the fillport
> 1 *Bitspower Luxury Reusable 5/8" OD Hose Clamp - Black* Classy clamp for the plug
> 1 *Monsoon .999 Fine Silver Bullet Antimicrobial In-Line Bundle Pack* Not sure if necessary, let me know..
> 1 *Black Ice GTX Xtreme M160 Dual Pass Liquid Cooling Radiator - Dual 80mm* Used at bottom of case instead of standard dual 80mm fan intake
> 1 *Black Ice GTX Xtreme 120 Radiator - Black* Used at top of loop
> 1 *EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - 1L - UV Blue* Too little? Let me know.
> 
> 
> *I'll decide on fans based on what you guys recommend.*
> I'm using 1/2x3/4 tubing because I need all the fluid I can get flowing through the components. Do I need to get a separate reservoir or will the pump/res combo work? Will the inline silver corrode anything? I'll consider getting a second gtx 670 because that seems like it would be the largest bottleneck, but what do I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If I do get another card, should I go ahead and buy a higher watt psu?
> Anyway, let me know, and thanks for your patience if you read this massive list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll follow up with a map of heat dissipation and my loop config.
> *Edit 7/22 9:49PM:* Instead of a monsoon, maybe I should just use mayhem pastel?


----------



## Egameman

Hey all !

quick question:

is a EK TX 240 rad ( 64mm thick) enough for a 3570K and a evga 670 FTW ?

or is it better with either two:

240 x45 and 140x45

or

240x30 and phobya 200 rad ?

Appreciate any help, building a bitfenix Prodigy here and the "clock n buy" button huuurts !


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Hey all !
> 
> quick question:
> 
> is a EK TX 240 rad ( 64mm thick) enough for a 3570K and a evga 670 FTW ?
> 
> or is it better with either two:
> 
> 240 x45 and 140x45
> 
> or
> 
> 240x30 and phobya 200 rad ?
> 
> Appreciate any help, building a bitfenix Prodigy here and the "clock n buy" button huuurts !


Rule of thumb is one 120mm for every block you run so yes a TX 240 should be enough for the 3570 and 670 while a 200 would kind of be pushing it. Although I've heard that a 200 is a pretty solid performer.









~Ceadder


----------



## Egameman

Okey thnx









just to clarify i was thinking of a skinny 240 rad and a 200 rad, not a 200rad only









Will that set up be netter than a stand alone 240 x64 rad ?

Thnx for the help


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Okey thnx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just to clarify i was thinking of a skinny 240 rad and a 200 rad, not a 200rad only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will that set up be netter than a stand alone 240 x64 rad ?
> 
> Thnx for the help


Yes


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My wife is probably on the verge of leaving me because of this stupid hobby...


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My wife is probably on the verge of leaving me because of this stupid hobby...


+1


----------



## jeffblute

Little update going on. part one of the system update


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My wife is probably on the verge of leaving me because of this stupid hobby...


Mine won't leave me, but I do get in trouble every time I spend more money on it.

Plus I also have to try and justify why I just want / need an extra $100 or so


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Mine won't leave me, but I do get in trouble every time I spend more money on it.
> Plus I also have to try and justify why I just want / need an extra $100 or so


But I see you have bribed her by building her a pc lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Changed the coolant today. Temps lowered ~3-4c as a result. Yeah it was due to jug of distilled being at ambient, but it seems like the coolant is taking longer to rise in temp to the heat soak. Temp was at 40c @ 75% fan with the ambient being 24.444c Yesterday at this time with similar ambient it was 43-44c at 75% fan.









My system holds roughly 550ml too. Not bad for nearly 8ft of tubing FC, CPU, Rad, Pumps and Reservoir.









~Ceadder


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Changed the coolant today. Temps lowered ~3-4c as a result. Yeah it was due to jug of distilled being at ambient, but it seems like the coolant is taking longer to rise in temp to the heat soak. Temp was at 40c @ 75% fan with the ambient being 24.444c Yesterday at this time with similar ambient it was 43-44c at 75% fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My system holds roughly 550ml too. Not bad for nearly 8ft of tubing FC, CPU, Rad, Pumps and Reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Geez! Mine holds close to 32oz and the amount of tubing is prob half that!


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Mine won't leave me, but I do get in trouble every time I spend more money on it.
> Plus I also have to try and justify why I just want / need an extra $100 or so





My wife says I can spend as much as I want as long as it LOOKS good, takes LITTLE space, and is'nt destroying our custom designed home bla bla bla bla bla... * Erik, get that stupid star wars mouse pad away from the living room*...* the blue color in your computer doesn't ach up with the sunset beige-yellow on the walls*...

Try live with that


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Yes






240x30 + 200 rad ? better than one big 240 rad ?









Just asking cause I saw some calculations about the total area heat was being dispacthed ( sorry for bad english ).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Changed the coolant today. Temps lowered ~3-4c as a result. Yeah it was due to jug of distilled being at ambient, but it seems like the coolant is taking longer to rise in temp to the heat soak. Temp was at 40c @ 75% fan with the ambient being 24.444c Yesterday at this time with similar ambient it was 43-44c at 75% fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My system holds roughly 550ml too. Not bad for nearly 8ft of tubing FC, CPU, Rad, Pumps and Reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My SR-2 loop took 2.5 ltrs to fill....without GPU blocks.
More fluid is better!


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My SR-2 loop took 2.5 ltrs to fill....without GPU blocks.
> More fluid is better!


Lol, a build I'm designing at the moment will take about 3-3.5 litres to fill.


----------



## derickwm

I shudder to think how much mine will take once fully completed...


----------



## bundymania




----------



## derickwm

DD has had the craziest block designs lately. Any talk of nickel plating? Would look amazing.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I shudder to think how much mine will take once fully completed...


I should measure how much is in mine once I attach my rad stand. At least 3-4L


----------



## johnko1

I have some questions about future upgrades:

1)The case I'm using is cm 690II advanced.I have currently installed an xspc ex240 on the top and in the future I may intall a vrm/mosfet block too.Would another 120mm rad (maybe ex120) be enough or should I install two?Can you recommend a thick radiator?
2)I heard nickel and silver have problems co-existing in a loop?Is it true or it was just ek's [email protected]?

In this case I will go with cpu only loop because it is small.If I want to watercool my gpu too I'll use my testbench(in progress) or my old haf 932 (currently in a bad shape)
Thanks


----------



## Saurian

If you're using compression fittings in your system, what are you using?

I'm deciding between bitspower 1/2" ID and say, the monsoon compression fittings (which look super neat [but that goes for most compression fittings







]).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> If you're using compression fittings in your system, what are you using?
> 
> I'm deciding between bitspower 1/2" ID and say, the monsoon compression fittings (which look super neat [but that goes for most compression fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]).


Go for the Monsoons. They're slightly cheaper and not nearly as wide as BP fittings. BP fittings are awesome but they make it harder to route your tubing and on some blocks are near impossible to get two of them on the block without an angle fitting.

I've got EK fittings. That's about the only thing they make anymore that is good.









@ Capacity issue... System will probably hold more if I install another 360 and GPU blocks.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go for the Monsoons. They're slightly cheaper and *not nearly as wide as BP fittings. BP fittings are awesome but they make it harder to route your tubing and on some blocks are near impossible to get two of them on the block without an angle fitting.*
> I've got EK fittings. That's about the only thing they make anymore that is good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Capacity issue... System will probably hold more if I install another 360 and GPU blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


This. They can be a real pain sometimes. Also when using two standard fittings on a rad, I've had issues where they interfere with the fan and being able to mount it flush on the radiator, even to the point where I had to take my Dremel and carve into the fans a little to fit around the BP fittings.


----------



## Saurian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go for the Monsoons. They're slightly cheaper and not nearly as wide as BP fittings. BP fittings are awesome but they make it harder to route your tubing and on some blocks are near impossible to get two of them on the block without an angle fitting.
> I've got EK fittings. That's about the only thing they make anymore that is good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah, thanks! Also, would it be okay to have a 90 degree fitting adapter+male-male coupler into a shut-off valve in the side of


Spoiler: this



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9898/ex-pmp-92/Bitspower_Mini_Water_Tank_Plus_DDC_Pump_Attachement_Reservoir_w_Filter_BP-DDCT2-CL.html



reservoir and have the system running through the top of the res instead of filling the pump up from the side (by filling I mean the return tube from the second set of radiators).

I'm wondering because it would be much easier for me to have the loop return running through the top of the case, but I'll have to draw up a diagram.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I really didn't have any issues tubing up with my Bitspower Comp fittings honestly. I used a number of angled fittings but that was more for aesthetics than anything else. Granted I haven't leak-tested yet so their performance is still to be determined but the looks and ease of use so far have been exemplary...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go for the Monsoons. They're slightly cheaper and not nearly as wide as BP fittings. BP fittings are awesome but they make it harder to route your tubing and on some blocks are near impossible to get two of them on the block without an angle fitting.
> I've got EK fittings. That's about the only thing they make anymore that is good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, thanks! Also, would it be okay to have a 90 degree fitting adapter+male-male coupler into a shut-off valve in the side of
> 
> 
> Spoiler: this
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9898/ex-pmp-92/Bitspower_Mini_Water_Tank_Plus_DDC_Pump_Attachement_Reservoir_w_Filter_BP-DDCT2-CL.html
> 
> 
> 
> reservoir and have the system running through the top of the res instead of filling the pump up from the side (by filling I mean the return tube from the second set of radiators).
> 
> I'm wondering because it would be much easier for me to have the loop return running through the top of the case, but I'll have to draw up a diagram.
Click to expand...

I think I know what you're saying but it would be better with a diagram. As far as a shutoff valve that should/would be fine but you'll want to cap it with a plug to make sure no fluid escapes the loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

I just had issues with a standard straight 1/2" fitting on a radiator and then mounting the fan next to the fittings, but these fixed that issue. No real "tubing up" issues.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> I have some questions about future upgrades:
> 1)The case I'm using is cm 690II advanced.I have currently installed an xspc ex240 on the top and in the future I may intall a vrm/mosfet block too.Would another 120mm rad (maybe ex120) be enough or should I install two?Can you recommend a thick radiator?
> 2)I heard nickel and silver have problems co-existing in a loop?Is it true or it was just ek's [email protected]?
> In this case I will go with cpu only loop because it is small.If I want to watercool my gpu too I'll use my testbench(in progress) or my old haf 932 (currently in a bad shape)
> Thanks


1) A 240 for CPU, GPU and mosfets should be fine.

2) It was EK's fault...I don't know the entire story but I believe it had something to do with sub-standard plating


----------



## solar0987

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Loooks like a weiner still.......


----------



## Aventadoor

I'm struggling with vibrations from the Koolance RP452x2 REV.2 tank... Anyone got tips?
Ive tryed used rubber etc, but dident help that much. Maby its cause the way 5.25 bay stuff gets mounted in the case?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> DD has had the craziest block designs lately. Any talk of nickel plating? Would look amazing.


I have the inside scoop with DD and I'll tell them that there has been moderately positive feedback, just needs moar nickel.
lol
I cant wait to get mine, they're shipping em tomorrow i think.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I have the inside scoop with DD and I'll tell them that there has been moderately positive feedback, just needs moar nickel.
> lol
> I cant wait to get mine, they're shipping em tomorrow i think.


Go straight to chrome,nickel is for chumps.

Cu is <3


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> If you're using compression fittings in your system, what are you using?
> 
> I'm deciding between bitspower 1/2" ID and say, the monsoon compression fittings (which look super neat [but that goes for most compression fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]).


Monsoon.


----------



## Skripka

I got bored this afternoon with a camera...funny story, while taking these photos it was hotter outside (40C) than my CPU is at idle inside with all my fans undervolted into silent mode (36C)

Some updated Gallery pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




















































































[/img]


----------



## derickwm

That's a cute little box.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's a cute little box.


WARNING: Black shiny powdercoat+local heat warning+mid-afternoon=surface fit to boil a 2-minute egg on.


----------



## Lazy Bear

So you like the Monsoons, Derick? So far I absolutely love mine, I can't wait for them to get their tubes and angled fittings out, I just wish they made a matte red AND an anodised red fitting.


----------



## derickwm

Yeah I'm a fan







I can't wait for the tubing they're sending me to come in


----------



## Ceadderman

I rather like the Black Monsoons. Those are just gorgeous.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fultonloyn

Any help from the club would be much appreciated...Im kind of at wits end with this today...I have run out out of options, short of putting a new block on...

Click here to help me


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Any help from the club would be much appreciated...Im kind of at wits end with this today...I have run out out of options, short of putting a new block on...
> Click here to help me


had same problem.drove me crazy. re-alligned block and was all good.
also maybe trapped air in the block. try tilting your case and shutting down and starting
the comp in different positions and wait a min or 2. then shutdown and do it again.
i thought i had all the air out of my loop then a few days later i
decided to try tilting and to my surprise more air bubbles. alot.
you may have too much thermal paste on as well.common mistake.
only need alittle. too much hinders the heat transfer from your block to your CPU

i got alot to teach but even more to learn.have a good one.


----------



## Fultonloyn

well, i went as far as turning the computer completely upside down to get the air out. A huge pocket of air did actually come out though. Also, I have got the thinnest layer of paste i can spread on there...

Thanks for your input!


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> well, i went as far as turning the computer completely upside down to get the air out. A huge pocket of air did actually come out though. Also, I have got the thinnest layer of paste i can spread on there...
> Thanks for your input!


Haha, I remember doing that with mine









Talk about a leak test!


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Haha, I remember doing that with mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talk about a leak test!


I had to do that with my x6 rig in a Mountain Mods UFO sized box...not fun.

This is why SFF builds are win for watercooling


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Haha, I remember doing that with mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talk about a leak test!


I was pretty nervous! haha

Maybe i am gonig out on a limb here, but can i say pump failure? I have the XSPC revison of the pump/res bay. Maybe this is the time for a pump upgrade? I dunno, seems to work fine though...


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I'm not sure but it sounds like your block isn't getting a good purchase on the CPU.

I've left feedback in your thread. Hope you aren't offended. I'm not out to criticize just left some thoughts regarding everything all at once.









~Ceadder


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I'm not sure but it sounds like your block isn't getting a good purchase on the CPU.
> 
> I've left feedback in your thread. Hope you aren't offended. I'm not out to criticize just left some thoughts regarding everything all at once.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


????????????????? who is that directed at????????????????????


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I'm not sure but it sounds like your block isn't getting a good purchase on the CPU.
> 
> I've left feedback in your thread. Hope you aren't offended. I'm not out to criticize just left some thoughts regarding everything all at once.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ????????????????? who is that directed at????????????????????
Click to expand...

????????????????? Fultonloyn ?????????????????????????????









~Ceadder


----------



## Fultonloyn

Haha That's so many question marks. I replied, no harm done in stating your opinion!


----------



## mandrix

I've had one heck of a time getting my temps down on my build as well, it's running a good 10 degrees C hotter than my other w/cooled 3770K at the same volts. When I crank the pump up I can see lot's of bubbles at the res inlet, dunno first adjustable speed pump I've had and not sure if they're being created at the res or coming from somewhere else. I got a suspicion all the air isn't out of the bottom rad though. Anyway I pulled the block apart and had a good look, reassembled with fresh MX4 and a different orientation. We'll see, got it down right now for mods anyway.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Man this build is simply kicking my arse! I had everything 95% done and just about to start filling the loop but I needed SATA cables for my 3 SSD's, HDD, and BD burner. They just came in and now my cable management is a nightmare! It seems like this friggin build is fighting me at every turn....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Man this build is simply kicking my arse! I had everything 95% done and just about to start filling the loop but I needed SATA cables for my 3 SSD's, HDD, and BD burner. They just came in and now my cable management is a nightmare! It seems like this friggin build is fighting me at every turn....


That's why I wait til I have all my cables (GPU not withstanding.







) before I tackle a build. I hate following along afterward and tidying everything up. I'd rather be in it once and forget it til it's time to do maintenance.









Then again I'll be in my system after I run P95 for 24hrs so I can lapp the CPU.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I thought I had all of my cables but didn't take into account just how big the TJ11 is. The SATA cables I had were way too short to reach the mobo and hide them. On a positive note, I JUST finished routing all of them and the build is 100% ready for leak testing! Still have to shoot part 3 of my video build log first though...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, I thought I had all of my cables but didn't take into account just how big the TJ11 is. The SATA cables I had were way too short to reach the mobo and hide them. On a positive note, I JUST finished routing all of them and the build is 100% ready for leak testing! Still have to shoot part 3 of my video build log first though...


Do yourself a faor and do your leak testing without powering your Mainboard GPU and have nothing else plugged in. I leak tested mine with only the loop plugged in with my homemade PSU connection to fool the PSU into providing power. Worked like a charm and with no power flowing through the system it lessened any chance of damaging my equipment. I'm sure this goes w/o saying but I said it anyway.









*BLASTED FRACKING LIMPSTICK NOTEBOOK WITH THE STICKY T* I'm still at me Ma's house and on her Vista infected Notebook.









~Ceadder


----------



## rotary7

yes I know my case makes every monitor look small lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh go jump in the lake.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Do yourself a faor and do your leak testing without powering your Mainboard GPU and have nothing else plugged in. I leak tested mine with only the loop plugged in with my homemade PSU connection to fool the PSU into providing power. Worked like a charm and with no power flowing through the system it lessened any chance of damaging my equipment. I'm sure this goes w/o saying but I said it anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BLASTED FRACKING LIMPSTICK NOTEBOOK WITH THE STICKY T* I'm still at me Ma's house and on her Vista infected Notebook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Don't worry, I have a spare 500W PSU that I will be jumping to provide power to the pump for the 24-hr leak test. The AX1200 will not be plugged in until the loop is validated...


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *BLASTED FRACKING LIMPSTICK NOTEBOOK WITH THE STICKY T* I'm still at me Ma's house and on her Vista infected Notebook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


V**ta? We do not speak it's name!


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *BLASTED FRACKING LIMPSTICK NOTEBOOK WITH THE STICKY T* I'm still at me Ma's house and on her Vista infected Notebook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> V**ta? We do not speak it's name!
Click to expand...

Your avatar is doing the V**ta dance


----------



## Ceadderman

Hahaha, I soooooooooo take my Win 7 for granted and then I realize just how screwed I am when I'm away for long periods of time. Her Desktop has Win 7 Home Premium, but she sticks this notebook in my hands an everything bad I remember about V**sta comes back in a neaseating wave that I can barely keep food down and off this sticky T keypad.


















~Ceadder


----------



## Plutonium10

Especially bad on notebooks when it gobbles up a few gigs of ram right from the get-go.


----------



## _REAPER_

I will be home soon I am looking forward to jumping back on the PC have a few mods to do and I will put it back on OCN..


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Don't worry, I have a spare 500W PSU that I will be jumping to provide power to the pump for the 24-hr leak test. The AX1200 will not be plugged in until the loop is validated...


You shouldn't have to do the dance I'm doing. My sleeved cables will not jumpstart the psu when shorted! I have to partially disassemble the psu cover, unplug the sleeved ones, plug in the stock Seasonic cable, prime the system and leak test, then unplug the Seasonic and replug the sleeved cables. PITA. did I say it was a PITA? it's a PITA!
I'm still trying to run down what the problem is. There's a wire somewhere Seasonic is using for voltage detection that I'm missing somehow. I have some swapped grounds/voltage wires but the others should be in standard location. Missed something somewhere, evidently.....and as many times as I've had to drain the loop modding stuff........yikes!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## johnko1

that block is beautiful


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Like I said, I won't be using the system PSU at all during the leak test. I'm using a spare PSU powering just the molex to the pump. That way I was able to go ahead and do all of my cable management first without having to worry about destroying anything if there is a leak.

On that note, I am almost 100% sure there will be a leak somewhere.







I tried to take my time and do everything right but this is my first attempt at building a custom loop so it's Murphy's Law that something will go catastrophically wrong! I highly suspect the Bitspower Crystal Links will be the culprit...


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Like I said, I won't be using the system PSU at all during the leak test. I'm using a spare PSU powering just the molex to the pump. That way I was able to go ahead and do all of my cable management first without having to worry about destroying anything if there is a leak.
> On that note, I am almost 100% sure there will be a leak somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to take my time and do everything right but this is my first attempt at building a custom loop so it's Murphy's Law that something will go catastrophically wrong! I highly suspect the Bitspower Crystal Links will be the culprit...


Got newspaper? Put it around the connectors, and look for dampness.

Very easy to over or under-tighten fittings into blocks and rads. When I added my 6970 to my loop I had a mess on my hands when I went to fill up my loop...and discovered that I hadn't adequately torqued the plugs in my GPU.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Like I said, I won't be using the system PSU at all during the leak test. I'm using a spare PSU powering just the molex to the pump. That way I was able to go ahead and do all of my cable management first without having to worry about destroying anything if there is a leak.
> 
> On that note, I am almost 100% sure there will be a leak somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to take my time and do everything right but this is my first attempt at building a custom loop so it's Murphy's Law that something will go catastrophically wrong! I highly suspect the Bitspower Crystal Links will be the culprit...


Just make sure to put lots of papertowles in if you think ther will be a link.

I've only ever had 2 leaks and they were both 90 degree rotary fittings that were not tight enough.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Like I said, I won't be using the system PSU at all during the leak test. I'm using a spare PSU powering just the molex to the pump. That way I was able to go ahead and do all of my cable management first without having to worry about destroying anything if there is a leak.
> On that note, I am almost 100% sure there will be a leak somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to take my time and do everything right but this is my first attempt at building a custom loop so it's Murphy's Law that something will go catastrophically wrong! I highly suspect the Bitspower Crystal Links will be the culprit...


I use the crystal link setup and its leak free. I was surprised at how snug they fit. Even if you have a leak your not gonna hurt anything with no power running through the system.


----------



## PCModderMike

Fill 'er up for more fun in the Switch...miss my RX360 being up top, but eventually when I block the cards it will definitely be back in there


----------



## bundymania

cathode out..leds in


----------



## audioholic

thats awesome! I like how the LEDS add the look to the bubbles







Cant wait to get my cylinder res. Not going with frozen-q though, but I love those reservoirs:thumb:


----------



## phillyd

I might have to do that LED mod!


----------



## Fonne

EK-FC670 GTX DCII (GPU, RAM and MOSFETs directly water cooled)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> EK-FC670 GTX DCII (GPU, RAM and MOSFETs directly water cooled)


Good looking block, I just don't like how EK's latest blocks seem to almost force you to use their link system now.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Hello gents. I was coming up with ideas for some more stuff to put on my case as it still looks too plain imo. I had some scrap aluminum and I started messing around with my dremel, and this is what I came up with. I know its not perfect but I like the little imperfections. Personally, I think gives it a nice rugged feel.


Look Familiar??









...Thinking about painting it metallic gold and sticking it on my side panel somewhere. Should go nicely with my WC loop. What do you guys think??


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Like I said, I won't be using the system PSU at all during the leak test. I'm using a spare PSU powering just the molex to the pump. That way I was able to go ahead and do all of my cable management first without having to worry about destroying anything if there is a leak.
> On that note, I am almost 100% sure there will be a leak somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to take my time and do everything right but this is my first attempt at building a custom loop so it's Murphy's Law that something will go catastrophically wrong! I highly suspect the Bitspower Crystal Links will be the culprit...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I use those for my SLi linking the two cards so I suppose that it doesn't hurt anything to badly reducing the ID tube size but for the CPU.....hmmmm.....never thought of that before, kinda like it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> EK-FC670 GTX DCII (GPU, RAM and MOSFETs directly water cooled)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know that you can't see the GPU blocks in an ATX format case......and honestly, that would be the only reason that I would ever buy something that fugly (cause I couldn't see it).....even still, just knowing it was in there would lead to unhappiness. To each there own though.....I suppose, but for me I would buy my blocks from someone else even if they performed worse than EK's new design.

Hey EK, the 70's called.......they want their mojo design back!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> cathode out..leds in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Which end are you lighting the single port or the double port where the CCL opening is at? I've got plenty of LEDs's to light mine but I'm wondering if I should do more than one LED. Cause I have two of them in my CPU block and they really aren't as bright as I would like them to be. Of course that could be due to being only in the top portion of my block and that it's Red Plexi being lit by Red LEDs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> cathode out..leds in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [im g]http://www.abload.de/img/img_48638icet.jpg[/img]
> [im g]http://www.abload.de/img/img_4397tydwa.jpg[/img]
> [im g]http://www.abload.de/img/img_4408l1cp7.jpg[/img]


Only thing I dislike about my H2gO, is that there's no room for those T-Virus reservoirs.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> Only thing I dislike about my H2gO, is that there's no room for those T-Virus reservoirs.


you can get them in small versions and dual 5.25" bay versions
search Frozenq


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you can get them in small versions and dual 5.25" bay versions
> search Frozenq


Then I sacrifice functionality in my fan controller and my flash card reader for the bay versions, and the standalones, there's no good way of mounting it to show it off like it deserves.


----------



## phamxp426

Just finished my new build this weekend, let me know what you guys think!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you can get them in small versions and dual 5.25" bay versions
> search Frozenq
> 
> 
> 
> Then I sacrifice functionality in my fan controller and my flash card reader for the bay versions, and the standalones, there's no good way of mounting it to show it off like it deserves.
Click to expand...

oh i see. you could mount it externally


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^He could mount it where it is supposed to be mounted and mount the fan controller internally like many other WC'ers do.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> EK-FC670 GTX DCII (GPU, RAM and MOSFETs directly water cooled)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that you can't see the GPU blocks in an ATX format case......and honestly, that would be the only reason that I would ever buy something that fugly (cause I couldn't see it).....even still, just knowing it was in there would lead to unhappiness. To each there own though.....I suppose, but for me I would buy my blocks from someone else even if they performed worse than EK's new design.
> 
> Hey EK, the 70's called.......they want their mojo design back!!!
Click to expand...

This would be me if I bought that fugly pos block.

Me >







< My OCD










I showed the old v. new to my Ma who while is quite judgemental about my "wasting time" on the Computer (for another discussion in another topic) is quite supportive of my water cooling because she can see what I'm trying to accomplish building my business in this Depression economy...

She looked at it and looked at me an sraight asked me if Gladys Night and he Pips come with that block. She flat stated that block would never be welcome in her home if she were to consider water cooling her system. And this lady is 63 has no AC and can use water cooling in the worst way except she lives in a rural area and I'd be making house calls to clear the dust out of her Radiator at least once a month due to her dirt road and horses on the property.

This is my Ma who didn't have any problems with any of my music choices as a Teenager listening to Metallica, DIO Dokken Iron Maiden and doesn't have a problem with any of my music tastes today. If she says that it's ugly and not allowed in her home that should tell you something.









~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phamxp426*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished my new build this weekend, let me know what you guys think!


Looking real clean....hard to tell, you running a 240 up top and a 240 in the bottom?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This would be me if I bought that fugly pos block.
> Me >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> < My OCD


Ahaha, me too. I really dont want to get an Asus DCii for my new build because only EK makes blocks for them as far as I know.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is my Ma who didn't have any problems with any of my music choices as a Teenager listening to Metallica, DIO Dokken Iron Maiden and doesn't have a problem with any of my music tastes today.
> ~Ceadder


Lucky me, I'm seeing Iron Maiden live on Friday.


----------



## phamxp426

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looking real clean....hard to tell, you running a 240 up top and a 240 in the bottom?


Yep, running an EX240 top, RS240 bottom. Temps are great! I'm really loving it so far. Watercooling really is a slippery slope... This time last year I was debating H60 vs the rasa kit. Guess we know what decision I made


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phamxp426*
> 
> Yep, running an EX240 top, RS240 bottom. Temps are great! I'm really loving it so far. Watercooling really is a slippery slope... This time last year I was debating H60 vs the rasa kit. Guess we know what decision I made


Good choice


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

One hour into my leak testing! Things went horribly wrong at first. I immediately had a massive leak from my Crystal Link tubes and a steady drip from my EK FC Bridge after powering up the pump. The FC Bridge was an easy fix as I just had been too conservative with screwing in the screws (the instructions said not too tight so I left them intentionally loose). The Crystal Links were a nightmare though. I drained the loop and replaced one of the tubes with a slightly longer one and that fixed the one but the other had a slow drip so I played around with the tightness of the fittings until it stopped. One hour later and nothing else is leaking yet. Will leave the pump running until tomorrow and keep checking periodically. Here's some pics!



















I'm not too sure about the coolant so far. It is light because of all of the micro bubbles but I was really hoping for a darker red than this (looks pink in the pics but it is really more of a magenta IRL). Does anybody know if I can add Mayhems red dye to the mixture to darken it a bit? Thanks!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Oh you like pink Majin SSJ Eric, don't lie!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Does anybody know if I can add Mayhems red dye to the mixture to darken it a bit? Thanks!


Yes,you can.

Those BP fittings...i stayed away from those intentionally for my build...2 o-rings is not secure in my eyes.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,you can.
> Those BP fittings...i stayed away from those intentionally for my build...2 o-rings is not secure in my eyes.


You realise most fittings only have a single o-ring between fitting and block?









I have bitspower rotaries, work fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Majin check out the Plasticizer thread. Mayhem tells you how to go about getting a darker Red if that is what you're after.









I like your build and everybody must learn sometime but I have a suggestion that cold potentially save you quite a bit of money in the leak test process. Instead of using an expensive coolant/dye during this process I believe you'd be better served running straight distilled. If you like having some color to alert you to a leak get some Food coloring in the color that closely matches your preferred color and drop a couple hits into your loop. It's just dye and while it can be kind of expensive it's good to have on hand for other things(i.e. cooking purposes Easter etc) and you won't be losing anything should you have to drain and refill the loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## jagz

Soon as I'm finished with the CM Load Em' Up contest stuffs... I'm getting my feet wet (parts have been here for quite some time)

As for leak test, I'm going to use distilled water with no dye.. How am I to tell if it leaked only a few drops? What should I use that'll show the distortion? write in pen all over a piece of paper or something? look closely for a water mark?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Soon as I'm finished with the CM Load Em' Up contest stuffs... I'm getting my feet wet (parts have been here for quite some time)
> 
> As for leak test, I'm going to use distilled water with no dye.. How am I to tell if it leaked only a few drops? What should I use that'll show the distortion? write in pen all over a piece of paper or something? look closely for a water mark?


Blue Towel disposables. You can generally find them in any automotive parts shop. They're light to mid blue and when they get wet they turn dark where the water comes in contact with the towel.









They come in clear plastic wrapping with Red and Yellow logo on the front with a man black scale mechanic on it.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

More pics in latest post in build log


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> cathode out..leds in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


simple yet nice mod.. i had to replace my FrozenQ res. a little bit ago
due to the fact that the tube where the middle light is
placed in cracked at the bottom inside (still not sure how)
so i sprung a leak. so i now have a new one in my current build
and a "in repair" one which i've already bought a new light and
middle tube for but.. now i'm thinking of LED'ing the broken bastard.
thanks for the idea.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> [IM G]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh545/goatsongoats/_DSC5314.jpg[/IMG]
> [IM G]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh545/goatsongoats/_DSC5322.jpg[/IMG]
> [IM G]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh545/goatsongoats/_DSC5324.jpg[/IMG]
> [IM G]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh545/goatsongoats/_DSC5326.jpg[/IMG]
> [IM G]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh545/goatsongoats/_DSC5328.jpg[/IMG]
> [IM G]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh545/goatsongoats/_DSC5343.jpg[/IMG]
> More pics in latest post in build log


For every stray cable you leave dangling in a rat's nest, a kitten cries itself to sleep.


----------



## derickwm

To quote my build log:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> CABLE MANAGEMENT COME AT ME!


But really... I'm waiting on different PSUs then I'll start sleeving and managing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> You realise most fittings only have a single o-ring between fitting and block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have bitspower rotaries, work fine.


And a lot of clamping force from the thread,which the Sli fittings dont have...you cant pull a fitting out of a block but you can pull the tube out the the fitting real easy


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And a lot of clamping force from the thread,which the Sli fittings dont have...you cant pull a fitting out of a block *but you can pull the tube out the the fitting real easy*


That is why you use real metal hose clamps


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> That is why you use real metal hose clamps


You cant use hose clamps with copper tube,thats what im using...

I use proper push-fit fittings anyway.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> That is why you use real metal hose clamps


He's talking about using crystal links/running copper tubing....not just throwing hose on top of barbs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I think he got the wrong end of teh stick...


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys,
Thinking about getting a cylinder res. Unfortunately I cannot find a safe/ logical place to mount one in my Vulcan. So I am wondering if making some sort of stand that will hold my Eheim pump underneath and the reservoir about that so the pump and outlet of my reservoir will line up. Please excuse my paint skills but here is what I have in mind. This will all go between my PSU and the fans on my radiator. It will be bolted into the bottom of the case.
Thanks guys!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And a lot of clamping force from the thread,which the Sli fittings dont have...you cant pull a fitting out of a block *but you can pull the tube out the the fitting real easy*


Not if the tube is long enough to be really tight. You have to rotate the fittings themselves to remove the crystal link tubes in my system.

On a related note, 4 hours down and not a single drop has leaked so far! Just 8 more hours to go!


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not if the tube is long enough to be really tight. You have to rotate the fittings themselves to remove the crystal link tubes in my system.
> On a related note, 4 hours down and not a single drop has leaked so far! Just 8 more hours to go!


Am I the only one that leak tests for 20-30 mins? I see most of you leak test for hours.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not if the tube is long enough to be really tight. You have to rotate the fittings themselves to remove the crystal link tubes in my system.
> On a related note, 4 hours down and not a single drop has leaked so far! Just 8 more hours to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I the only one that leak tests for 20-30 mins? I see most of you leak test for hours.
Click to expand...

I leak test for like 5 then get impatient and boot up


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> I leak test for like 5 then get impatient and boot up


Ahh.. I knew I wasnt the only one. Anyone else gonna confess?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> I leak test for like 5 then get impatient and boot up


This....especially after you've got a few loops under your belt.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> I leak test for like 5 then get impatient and boot up
> 
> 
> 
> This....especially after you've got a few loops under your belt.
Click to expand...

I did it on my first one, but I only have two connections inside of my PC case and both were barbs tightened with a wrench and the hose held on with a metal hose clamp from fleet farm.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Im using all compression fittings aside from my crystal link. Only leak I have ever had was from my rotary not being tight enough. And it only took about 3 minutes for it to show up.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Ahh.. I knew I wasnt the only one. Anyone else gonna confess?


I've gotten really bad. Usually if it doesn't show any signs of dampness after 1-2 hours, I figure it isn't going too. Like I say, I've gotten really bad.


----------



## Fultonloyn

welp....im about to bite the bullet and get a new pump and res...if this block isnt making good contact, I will find out with a new pump and I can probably send it back. Ive reseated 5 times and had no different result. I have to go ahead and mark that off the list...

And now, suggestions on pump/res? MCP 655? with a UV helix bay res? Or just a DDC with a top on it?

EDIT: i should add some info here...I plan on another rad and SLI 670 with two blocks..food for thought..


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> welp....im about to bite the bullet and get a new pump and res...if this block isnt making good contact, I will find out with a new pump and I can probably send it back. Ive reseated 5 times and had no different result. I have to go ahead and mark that off the list...
> And now, suggestions on pump/res? MCP 655? with a UV helix bay res? Or just a DDC with a top on it?
> EDIT: i should add some info here...I plan on another rad and SLI 670 with two blocks..food for thought..


I have a 655 + Bitspower Acrylic top.

Thing is silent, plenty for my loop with a hf supreme + 680 koolance block, I'm sure it would be fine with another block.

For a res I have an ek 250 advanced multioption tube res. Mounts nice and easy and has enough options to allow really clean tube routing. Res is pretty much all based on what look/size/price/form factor you want though.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which end are you lighting the single port or the double port where the CCL opening is at? I've got plenty of LEDs's to light mine but I'm wondering if I should do more than one LED. Cause I have two of them in my CPU block and they really aren't as bright as I would like them to be. Of course that could be due to being only in the top portion of my block and that it's Red Plexi being lit by Red LEDs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


at the double port where the CCL opening is.....
just one bright LED inserted


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Awesome. So after an 8 hour leak test with no leaks I power up the system and one of the crystal links start leaking like a sieve.







No choice now but to order the larger fittings and redo the link after draining the loop. Sigh...


----------



## derickwm

Koolance arrived


































































More pics in log.

A HUGE thanks to [email protected]!


----------



## jackofhearts495

derickwm, your photography prowess is stunning.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which end are you lighting the single port or the double port where the CCL opening is at? I've got plenty of LEDs's to light mine but I'm wondering if I should do more than one LED. Cause I have two of them in my CPU block and they really aren't as bright as I would like them to be. Of course that could be due to being only in the top portion of my block and that it's Red Plexi being lit by Red LEDs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the double port where the CCL opening is.....
> just one bright LED inserted
Click to expand...

Cool beans! Thanks Bundy.









I must say that after seeing the DDC v2 block leak on review on one of the many YouTube reviews I tore mine apart and made absolutely certain that there was no acetal "fluff" in the Oring channel that would lead to springing a leak. Once I was confident that there would be no "suprises" where that was concerned, I was relatively confident in my plumber skills that I was okay enough to let the leak test run a bit and noticed right off the leak from the Res. I broke it apart applied PTFE recapped making certain that the dual inlets lined up properly(didn't notice I hadn't done so when I cleaned the Res) and redid the PTFE on my fittings hand tightened to snug + 1/4 turn for all the fittings wiggle tesed he tubing to make sure there was just enough flexibility in the tubing between fittings but not too much slack in the line filled her up let er go and I'd be surprised if I waited an hour once I'd confirmed all fittings, res and pump were dry. If it wasn't leaking it wasn't going to leak. I used shroud/decouplers between my Intake fans and Radiator that there isn't any friction to surprise me and make my system leak. So really an hour was all I really needed to be sure of success. I'm a mechanically able individual who does his own mechanic work whenever and wherever possible. Not because I don't trust a mechanic but because the cost of labor alone I cannot afford. I'd much rather skin my own knuckles and cuss a blue streak a mile wide over something I mess up than get my blood pressure jacked up over the moon because something went wrong under someone else's care.









~Ceadder


----------



## tippy25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Koolance arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Sexy Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics in log.
> A HUGE thanks to [email protected]!


2 separate loops or will you be running those in series? I plan on running two separate loops in the future and was going to go with a similar setup as far as pump/res selection is concerned. I'm a big fan of silence, though, so I was unsure if I should go with the 450S or just the regular 450. Curious as to the noise output of those pumps in that res, my twin DDC 3.25 in my 401x2 res is kind of high pitched. Pumps are ran in series, for what it's worth. Flow meter is regularly showing 1.1gpm, but sometimes up to 1.8gpm. I'm using the Koolance flow meter, not an actual rotometer (super expensive), which ought to be significantly more accurate.

Also, I would run the fan controller below the res, not above it, so you have access to the top fill ports. I've heard bad things about the front fill ports.


----------



## derickwm

Doesn't really matter where I put the controller, top ports would be blocked anyway. I somehow managed to utilize all 17 bays in my STH10 lol

Koolance told me that the 450S is indeed louder than the 450. However, the 450 doesn't see as much benefit from the 24V compared to the 450S, so I went with them instead.

I'll be running in serial. Was going to do two separate loops but I will eventually just be picking up some more pumps for another loop.


----------



## tippy25

17 bays? And they're all used? Stick a 480 in there?

I'll probably only go w/ the regular 450 since I already have a Sunbeam Rheosmart 6 that I'll be using for pump speed control. Already using it for my 2 Koolance DDC pumps, rad fans, and a couple case fans, and it's a gorgeous unit that works wonderfully. I see no reason to replace it.


----------



## derickwm

Yes actually I did







took a good 12 of them alone ha.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Koolance arrived


I have this controller.



The blue tape is the water level at rest.
And thats just 1 D5,the other one is not connected yet!


----------



## derickwm

I'm copying you.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm copying you.


I thought you might,copper tube next?

Anyway,Its not copying,i just tested the water as it were.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Awesome. So after an 8 hour leak test with no leaks I power up the system and one of the crystal links start leaking like a sieve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No choice now but to order the larger fittings and redo the link after draining the loop. Sigh...


Pull BP fittings and check the o-rings,even a small mark can compromise the watertightness.
Check the Crystal links too.

They are a PITA,i dont recommend them at the best of times.


----------



## derickwm

If I could find a place in the US that sells chrome plated tubing









Might do some hard line plexi though. For kicks and giggles.

Also just noticed your pic. lol I can't wait to get both hooked up







did you get 450S?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If I could find a place in the US that sells chrome plated tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might do some hard line plexi though. For kicks and giggles.
> Also just noticed your pic. lol I can't wait to get both hooked up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you get 450S?


Your Tribute build could use polished copper,its all orange,it would go well!


----------



## derickwm

Link me baby.


----------



## Fonne

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/review/product/list/id/892/



Does any know the height of theese EK fittings ? - Need it to get the total height of the RAD with EK fittings on.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/review/product/list/id/892/
> 
> Does any know the height of theese EK fittings ? - Need it to get the total height of the RAD with EK fittings on.


http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-PSC-14-Thread-90-Degree-Rotary-Fitting--Black-pid-14575.html

34mm overall height


----------



## Fonne

Thanks


----------



## mandrix

I take it some of you guys with the FrozenQ helix res have had leaks? Mine has been trouble free so far other than the inverter bailing on me.
I really like what Bundy showed with the LED's lighting the res. I'm not happy with the cathode tube as shipped with the res and was considering changing it out if I can take apart a cathode with out destroying it. Any tips on that?

Meanwhile work continues on the Switch. Trying to get a new psu/rad cover fabbed since I want a little more room under the HDD cage so I yanked the 2 "pull" fans off the EX240. Eventually probably go dual pump and I wanted to make some more room. Had almost everything apart multiple times and no leaks yet, although I don't know how many more times I can compress this tubing and get away with it. I love the Bitspower rotary fittings but once you crank one all the way they are a witch to get uncoupled, at least for my old hands.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Link me baby.


First page of my pipe bending 101 has a list of 10mm and 12mm pipe stockists in the US.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Agreed B Neg, the crystal links are a huge PITA but unfortunately there is no better looking way of connecting such a short gap IMO...


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I take it some of you guys with the FrozenQ helix res have had leaks? Mine has been trouble free so far other than the inverter bailing on me.
> I really like what Bundy showed with the LED's lighting the res. I'm not happy with the cathode tube as shipped with the res and was considering changing it out if I can take apart a cathode with out destroying it. Any tips on that?
> Meanwhile work continues on the Switch. Trying to get a new psu/rad cover fabbed since I want a little more room under the HDD cage so I yanked the 2 "pull" fans off the EX240. Eventually probably go dual pump and I wanted to make some more room. Had almost everything apart multiple times and no leaks yet, although I don't know how many more times I can compress this tubing and get away with it. I love the Bitspower rotary fittings but once you crank one all the way they are a witch to get uncoupled, at least for my old hands.


Just twist the acrylic cap off and pull the tube out. Done it countless times. I broke my tube in my helix res about 8 times (don't Ask).


----------



## protzman

Derickwm, must be nice to get those qdc's fo-free








Been slowly accumulating them for my build in progress and god know how much I have spent already and I only have 4 connections hahah


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Like I said, I won't be using the system PSU at all during the leak test. I'm using a spare PSU powering just the molex to the pump. That way I was able to go ahead and do all of my cable management first without having to worry about destroying anything if there is a leak.
> On that note, I am almost 100% sure there will be a leak somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to take my time and do everything right but this is my first attempt at building a custom loop so it's Murphy's Law that something will go catastrophically wrong! I highly suspect the Bitspower Crystal Links will be the culprit...


Don't be so hard on yourself. I was pretty confident that my rig wouldn't leak when I fired up for the first time. But that didn't mean that I didn't take the necessary precautions. Fortunately everything was fine that first time. The only thing I regret not doing while I still had the chance is putting a quick release on my loop. Not that I foresee myself changing components, but it's better to have it than not.


----------



## zdude

TIme for the first of what will be a few updates...


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> TIme for the first of what will be a few updates...


Nice ghetto-rigged GPU stand.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> TIme for the first of what will be a few updates...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice ghetto-rigged GPU stand.
Click to expand...

yeah the tubing from the CPU was flexing the card like an inch so the GPU stand became necissary, and if you think that is ghetto wait until you see my pump that I am getting









I did drop 10C off my CPU temp going custom from the H100 that I just ditched though.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> yeah the tubing from the CPU was flexing the card like an inch so the GPU stand became necissary, and if you think that is ghetto wait until you see my pump that I am getting


Something like that is where rotary fittings save the day, for future reference.









I need 3 rotary fittings in my loop in my DD Boxen to navigate tight corners.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> yeah the tubing from the CPU was flexing the card like an inch so the GPU stand became necissary, and if you think that is ghetto wait until you see my pump that I am getting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like that is where rotary fittings save the day, for future reference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need 3 rotary fittings in my loop in my DD Boxen to navigate tight corners.
Click to expand...

I love rotary fittings/spacers and compression fittings. My *compact loop* wouldn't have been possible without them.


----------



## zdude

well..... ummmm errrrrrr ........


Spoiler: ummmmmmmmmmmm................... errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr........... au



I had like 1 drop of water come out of the GPU fitting and now my 580 is artifacting like crazy, even in the bios. The water touched one of my memory chips on the card. I am letting it dry now but will it come back?


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> well..... ummmm errrrrrr ........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ummmmmmmmmmmm................... errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr........... au
> 
> 
> 
> I had like 1 drop of water come out of the GPU fitting and now my 580 is artifacting like crazy, even in the bios. The water touched one of my memory chips on the card. I am letting it dry now but will it come back?


Ruh. Roh.


----------



## sortableturnip

50/50 chance...make sure it's completely dry b4 you power it up again. Use a hair dryer on low to aid in the drying process if necessary.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Probably will be OK. Just get it dried and fire her up!


----------



## zdude

well, how long am I to dry it? because I can't see any water on the card even after removing the waterblock...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'd give it at least a few hours.


----------



## sortableturnip

You can use a hair dryer on low to ensure its dry


----------



## carrotman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> You can use a hair dryer on low to ensure its dry


I'd be careful with this, if your hair dryer is anything like mine, it could melt things if you use it too long. You will be fine as long as you mind what you are doing though.


----------



## Plutonium10

I'm still debating between the ASUS 7970 DCII and one with a ref PCB. I'm just wondering what my VRM temps would be like with a universal waterblock like the Swiftech MCW82-7900 and the stock vrm heatsink included on the DCII. I know EK makes a full cover block but I'm really not a fan of their stuff and a full-cover block wasn't in my original budget.

Stock DCII heatsink: http://img.techpowerup.org/120203/hd7970-dc2-3d-3.jpeg


----------



## derickwm

Depends, are you looking to do a 5 or 6 screen setup? If not, then get reference.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> I'd be careful with this, if your hair dryer is anything like mine, it could melt things if you use it too long. You will be fine as long as you mind what you are doing though.


Right, don't hold it too close and don't run it for very long.


----------



## zdude

yeah, I hope the card is fine, it has served me well it is sitting in front of my box fan right now hopefully drying out...


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends, are you looking to do a 5 or 6 screen setup? If not, then get reference.


Just 1 screen at 1080p. The only reason I'm going 7970 instead of GTX 670 is for a little extra grunt when using Solidworks. But I hear horror stories about how loud the reference AMD cooler is, and ASUS seems to have one of the best custom coolers. As far as ref PCB models go, I think a Gigabyte card would be my first choice.


----------



## derickwm

Get ref then if you're only playing at 1080p. Not sure why you're concerned with ref cooler noise if you're going water anyway.

As an alternative to save money and not go water, the EVGA 670 FTW is extremely quiet, even when OC'd heavily. May want to look into that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I take it some of you guys with the FrozenQ helix res have had leaks? Mine has been trouble free so far other than the inverter bailing on me.
> I really like what Bundy showed with the LED's lighting the res. I'm not happy with the cathode tube as shipped with the res and was considering changing it out if I can take apart a cathode with out destroying it. Any tips on that?
> 
> Meanwhile work continues on the Switch. Trying to get a new psu/rad cover fabbed since I want a little more room under the HDD cage so I yanked the 2 "pull" fans off the EX240. Eventually probably go dual pump and I wanted to make some more room. Had almost everything apart multiple times and no leaks yet, although I don't know how many more times I can compress this tubing and get away with it. I love the Bitspower rotary fittings but once you crank one all the way they are a witch to get uncoupled, at least for my old hands.


My Res leaked cause I took it apart to clean hard water spots out of the plexi(it was rinsed in tap before it came to me) and I didn't tighten it enough. Which was a good thing cause I didn't line up the Helice device just right with the dual port so the coolant would fill the Res and force out the top which alerted me to the problem. It was a good thing I had 4 gallons of Distilled handy to mak sure I didn't run out.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Agreed B Neg, the crystal links are a huge PITA but unfortunately there is no better looking way of connecting such a short gap IMO...


Collapsible VGA fittings work well for this as long as you don't have the EZ mount in the direct line between the FC and the CPU blocks like we do. Which extensions did you use to connect your 90s' to? How tall are they? I still haven't connected mine up yet.







I figure I have a 10mm Difference in height lower than the top of the CPU block.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'd give it at least a few hours.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> yeah, I hope the card is fine, it has served me well it is sitting in front of my box fan right now hopefully drying out...


Good luck like Majin says give it a few hours and let it evaporate normally. Shouldn't have an issue after that.









~Ceadder


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Get ref then if you're only playing at 1080p. Not sure why you're concerned with ref cooler noise if you're going water anyway.
> As an alternative to save money and not go water, the EVGA 670 FTW is extremely quiet, even when OC'd heavily. May want to look into that.


A 670 FTW on air was my plan up until about a week ago, and then the option would be there to slap a 680 waterblock on it if I ever got annoyed by the noise or wanted cooler temps. My main use will be gaming but also some SolidWorks and I recently found that the 7970 is about twice as fast in that particular application, which is why I'm now leaning that way despite how I like the 670 better in every other regard. The reason I'm concerned with the AMD ref cooler noise is I'm not initially going to put my card under water, but rather concentrate on the CPU loop at first and see how much money/patience I have left afterwards.









I don't know if a GPU with good compute will even be needed for my SolidWorks use though. By the time I have the skill or the need to create large and complex models, I'm sure the next generation of GPUs will be readily available.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm using both 15mm and 20mm extensions I believe. There is still a small difference in height between the CPU fitting and the chipset fitting but that crystal link is solid. It's the mosfet/CPU connection that is leaking (and they are exactly the same height)...


----------



## derickwm

Lol well sounds to me like your best bet is the DCU then. That and the Lightning, which is even more expensive, are I believe the only non-ref cards with waterblocks.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol well sounds to me like your best bet is the DCU then. That and the Lightning, which is even more expensive, are I believe the only non-ref cards with waterblocks.


The Gigabyte seems like a good option as well. Ref PCB and good custom cooler.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Almost done, for now. Not really doing this case justice with a single 240, but it's all I have at the moment. Still need to tidy the cables and some other minor stuff.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Getting ready to leak test soon.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Almost done, for now. Not really doing this case justice with a single 240, but it's all I have at the moment. Still need to tidy the cables and some other minor stuff.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like the tubing in your rig. Always a fan of the matte black look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Getting ready to leak test soon.
> http://postimage.org/image/npqrthcyn/full/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ok, looked at your build logs...an I have to say...THAT IS THE CRAZIEST &$^&% I HAVE EVER SEEN!!!! You, sir, are a genius!


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I really like the tubing in your rig. Always a fan of the matte black look.


Thanks, it's actually just automotive heater hose. I've been using it for awhile because it's cheap, yet still looks great.


----------



## Krahe

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Getting ready to leak test soon.






Built in bong cooler IntialDriveGTR?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Getting ready to leak test soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm going to be buying the Azza Genesis 9000 soon but not sure.
i need to fit a triple 120mm on the bottom which i believe is no
problem but i was wondering how much room is there on the top
to put a rad. i'm thinking a quad 120mm rad but not sure if there is enough
room on the top part of the case.is there only enough for a triple 120mm or?
nice build by the way


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Getting ready to leak test soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be buying the Azza Genesis 9000 soon but not sure.
> i need to fit a triple 120mm on the bottom which i believe is no
> problem but i was wondering how much room is there on the top
> to put a rad. i'm thinking a quad 120mm rad but not sure if there is enough
> room on the top part of the case.is there only enough for a triple 120mm or?
> nice build by the way
Click to expand...

there is enough room on the top to fit a 480 rad comfortably but on the bottom if you are using a full sized PSU you can only fit a 240...


----------



## Cyclops

Spoiler: My Milk Shake


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Getting ready to leak test soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be buying the Azza Genesis 9000 soon but not sure.
> i need to fit a triple 120mm on the bottom which i believe is no
> problem but i was wondering how much room is there on the top
> to put a rad. i'm thinking a quad 120mm rad but not sure if there is enough
> room on the top part of the case.is there only enough for a triple 120mm or?
> nice build by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> there is enough room on the top to fit a 480 rad comfortably but on the bottom if you are using a full sized PSU you can only fit a 240...
Click to expand...

Agreed. But with custom mounting you might be able to pull off a 360 in the bottom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Ok, looked at your build logs...an I have to say...THAT IS THE CRAZIEST &$^&% I HAVE EVER SEEN!!!! You, sir, are a genius!


lol awesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Getting ready to leak test soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Built in bong cooler IntialDriveGTR?
Click to expand...

Yup. Two of em.


----------



## zdude

I got my info from your thread so we should agree


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Just twist the acrylic cap off and pull the tube out. Done it countless times. I broke my tube in my helix res about 8 times (don't Ask).


Right. I know how to the res apart. I'm talking about taking another cathode apart so I can change the one in the res. You have to take the cathode out of the glass housing and I just wanted to know if there were any tips or tricks to it, or just start ripping into it. But I might go for the LED option after seeing Bundy's.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My Res leaked cause I took it apart to clean hard water spots out of the plexi(it was rinsed in tap before it came to me) and I didn't tighten it enough. Which was a good thing cause I didn't line up the Helice device just right with the dual port so the coolant would fill the Res and force out the top which alerted me to the problem. It was a good thing I had 4 gallons of Distilled handy to mak sure I didn't run out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ouch! That would definitely suck. Yeah it's kind of a pain to line up. I had mine apart a few times but no leaks so far. I dampened the orings before I reassembled, just a habit from a long time ago. I also have a fillport attached to it, maybe that helps with pressure in the res, dunno.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: My Milk Shake


Very nicely done. Excellent wire management.


----------



## fa5terba11

Hey guys, I just added to my build log if anyone wants to check it out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1269782/work-log-project-frost-phoenix-nzxt-switch-810-water-cooled/40#post_17798018


----------



## EditeD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Getting ready to leak test soon.
> -snip-


Wow, good job!


----------



## Saurian

What do you guys think about the i7-3820 vs the i7-2600k? I've heard that, while the 2600k excels in application performance (gaming), the 3820 does better in streaming/recording/encoding.

Also, considering the 3820 isn't a k processor, how does it fare in terms of overclocking performance? I hear it has some limitations regarding the fsb.

-Saurian


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> What do you guys think about the i7-3820 vs the i7-2600k? I've heard that, while the 2600k excels in application performance (gaming), the 3820 does better in streaming/recording/encoding.
> Also, considering the 3820 isn't a k processor, how does it fare in terms of overclocking performance? I hear it has some limitations regarding the fsb.
> -Saurian


Depends whether u want quad channel ram and need the pcie lanes.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The 3820 OC's like a beast from what I hear. Just have to use the base clock straps rather than the multi...


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Depends whether u want quad channel ram and need the pcie lanes.


Although in real life quad-channel memory means as little as tri-channel memory did. Only benefit is the ability to load craploads of memory, which most people will never use more than 32GB for the visible future.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

No leaks!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Wish I was that lucky...


----------



## zdude

you should post a youtube vid of it running, I am curious as to how effective/loud those two bongs are.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> you should post a youtube vid of it running, I am curious as to how effective/loud those two bongs are.


Not gonna happen for a while.... but I would suggest your read through my last build, you will find what you seek









http://www.overclock.net/t/1202757/build-log-project-rainfall-finished


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> you should post a youtube vid of it running, I am curious as to how effective/loud those two bongs are.


Agreed.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> No leaks!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Gratz mate, great work indeed.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Round two of leak testing underway. Used a slightly longer crystal link tube that I thought was too long but it fit. Keeping my fingers and toes crossed!


----------



## jagz

Kinda urgent.... lets say I know a guy who used a screw much too long to mount the ex360 and subsequently put a hole through it...... this will leak right?


----------



## Canis-X

if he nicked on of the tubes then yes it will.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I was terrified of this particular issue when mounting my fans to my rads. I had a flashlight trained under the fan screws and made sure that none pierced the rad...


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I was terrified of this particular issue when mounting my fans to my rads. I had a flashlight trained under the fan screws and made sure that none pierced the rad...


I was so scared when I did mine. Those screws are _long_ and they never really went all the way in


----------



## jagz

ya I think I ruined my rad...lol. should I try to see if it went through a flow pipe? Anyways I'll chalk that up as a rookie first time WC mistake.... anyone know for sure if a screw going all the way through on a EX360 at the mount hole will compromise it?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Almost certainly I would say. Pour some water into it and see if it leaks...


----------



## _REAPER_

you will need to add some pressure (Closed loop with pump) to ensure it will not leak because most of the time without the pressure you will not know if there is a leak


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Almost certainly I would say. Pour some water into it and see if it leaks...


strangely it hasn't leaked a drop...but that's a still test no water is being actively pushed through. Would that be what it takes to rear it's ugly head or did I luck out big?

-right on cue reaper. I'll see what I can do.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Almost certainly I would say. Pour some water into it and see if it leaks...
> 
> 
> 
> strangely it hasn't leaked a drop...but that's a still test no water is being actively pushed through. Would that be what it takes to rear it's ugly head or did I luck out big?
> 
> -right on cue reaper. I'll see what I can do.
Click to expand...

You can easilly repair it with some sodder. If you need help let me know. I've repaired several rads and they all work fine.


----------



## LiljHoN05

Hello Mate!

Sorry for the long time update =D

here's some changes on my Phantom Diffuser,.

*PROJECT PHANTOM BIO-MECH*









Special Thanks to:


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiljHoN05*
> 
> Hello Mate!
> Sorry for the long time update =D
> here's some changes on my Phantom Diffuser,.
> *PROJECT PHANTOM BIO-MECH*


Smexy! What's that behind the front door?


----------



## Dredknot

one of the best looking systems to date for me. thats simply stunning!


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> Smexy! What's that behind the front door?


Looks like the Dual bay NZXT Sentry LX Fan Controller

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992004


----------



## saber101

It's my First


----------



## gliggo

Finally completed ! Had a few problems with the Swiftech Komodo blocks so eventually just switched back to the EK blocks after two days of hassle!


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally completed ! Had a few problems with the Swiftech Komodo blocks so eventually just switched back to the EK blocks after two days of hassle!


For some reason the photo uploaded at a crap size and quality! Will have to take and upload a better one tmrw!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

OK, so I think I am just an idiot and that is the reason this build is giving so much trouble. Could somebody look at the inlet and outlet orientation of my FC Bridge and tell me whether its correct? I have a strong suspicion that I should have used the bottom port as an outlet because the GPU blocks seem to be getting no flow. The bridge is a triple parallel.



Playing around with my fan controller settings when I noticed both cards were 95C idle in the desktop. Looked at the blocks and sure enough there appeared to be no movement of the coolant.


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK, so I think I am just an idiot and that is the reason this build is giving so much trouble. Could somebody look at the inlet and outlet orientation of my FC Bridge and tell me whether its correct? I have a strong suspicion that I should have used the bottom port as an outlet because the GPU blocks seem to be getting no flow. The bridge is a triple parallel.
> Playing around with my fan controller settings when I noticed both cards were 95C idle in the desktop. Looked at the blocks and sure enough there appeared to be no movement of the coolant.


Yup you've got it wrong







http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-triple-parallel.html Click the pics to see which you prefer that bridge can be run triple serial or parallel but either way the in and out need to be opposite one another otherwise you are just passing the coolant straight through.


----------



## zdude

I belive you should have used parrallel

as for me, well I have my fingers crossed


putting the card together now after about 15 hours in the rice.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## vincent198

Now, where is the rad?










Rad dimensions: 100x20x11 CM!

Xspc rx 360= 2505600 MM2

This rad= 22000000 MM2

So, the rad im using right now is 8.7 times bigger










Case is a bit modded fractical design xl, (mods: Inverted atx/ some parts sprayed red and removed almost evrything.

Room temp: 26c
Temps: i7 920 @ 3.8ghz
Idle 45 c
Load 58c

Gtx 295 @703/1513
Idle 41
Load 51

Seems a bit high, but it is all passive with 26c room temp.

I will post more pictures when i sleeved all cables, made a cover for the psu and when i have recieved a reservoir/ fans


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vincent198*
> 
> _http://i48.tinypic.com/35kim9h.jpg[/IMG]
> Now, where is the rad?
> http://i45.tinypic.com/f00l94.jpg[/IMG]
> Rad dimensions: 100x20x11 CM!
> Xspc rx 360= 2505600 MM2
> This rad= 22000000 MM2
> So, the rad im using right now is 8.7 times bigger
> http://i46.tinypic.com/5n8aqa.jpg[/IMG]
> Case is a bit modded fractical design xl, (mods: Inverted atx/ some parts sprayed red and removed almost evrything.
> Room temp: 26c
> Temps: i7 920 @ 3.8ghz
> Idle 45 c
> Load 58c
> Gtx 295 @703/1513
> Idle 41
> Load 51
> Seems a bit high, but it is all passive with 26c room temp.
> I will post more pictures when i sleeved all cables, made a cover for the psu and when i have recieved a reservoir/ fans_


I hope you're using anti-corrosive additives or coolants... because just looking at that, it looks like mixed metals.


----------



## vincent198

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skripka*
> 
> I hope you're using anti-corrosive additives or coolants... because just looking at that, it looks like mixed metals.


Rad has copper pipes, bitspower waterblock has nickel (?) not sure btw, and rest is also copper. But no i am only using distilled water. I still have to make some orders for the reservoir and fans i will take some pt nuke and a killcoil then.


----------



## zdude

well I think it is working, I didn't plum it into my water cooling loop at first so I just got past the bios but it did that without artifacting, something it couldn't do yesterday!!!!!!!!!!! I just hope that when I stress test it it holds up but now I am hopeful that I can get it to work yay yay yay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EDIT: leak testing now


----------



## LiljHoN05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Smexy! What's that behind the front door?


NZXT Sentry LX Fan Controller =D


----------



## LiljHoN05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> one of the best looking systems to date for me. thats simply stunning!


Thank you mate,. =D


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK, so I think I am just an idiot and that is the reason this build is giving so much trouble. Could somebody look at the inlet and outlet orientation of my FC Bridge and tell me whether its correct? I have a strong suspicion that I should have used the bottom port as an outlet because the GPU blocks seem to be getting no flow. The bridge is a triple parallel.
> Playing around with my fan controller settings when I noticed both cards were 95C idle in the desktop. Looked at the blocks and sure enough there appeared to be no movement of the coolant.


Its wrong. Switch the the outlet to the other port at the bottom.

Like so:


----------



## zdude

IT LIVES YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BTW if you ever have a leak RIce is your best friend.


----------



## Canis-X

Congrats zdude, glad that it worked out for you!!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Figured it would be OK. I think generally hardware is pretty robust. Usually if you don't see physical damage it will still work.

Also, thanks guys for the heads up about my fc bridge. Really stupid noob mistake that means I get to drain and refill my loop yet again...


----------



## Hamy144

After two weeks this has happened










(My phone turned the pic)

Any ideas why? Im running "purified" with a kill coil


----------



## zdude

pic time for my ghetto loop









hmmm I wonder what will be going here?


----------



## audioholic

Woofta this will be a tight squeeze to get a 150mm reservoir!
I am looking at getting an L bracket made to hold it ...does anyone have the mounting brackets for a BP Z Tank handy? I am trying to get the measurements for the brackets that hold the tank.
I just need the width of the mounting holes...that would be awesome if someone could help!
Heres a picture:


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> pic time for my ghetto loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmmm I wonder what will be going here?


Nice Hardware but I guess you can afford new tubing. Unless you use a Garbage Juice dye.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saber101*
> 
> It's my First


nice job! hard to mount the rad inside those Thermaltake V3's


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> pic time for my ghetto loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmmm I wonder what will be going here?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice Hardware but I guess you can afford new tubing. Unless you use a Garbage Juice dye.
Click to expand...

new tubing will be coming when I put the 360 rad up top that I just bought... i know it looks like crap but hey when I got it all at $2 for the whole loop from fleet farm i won't argue.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Nice!

Me thinks that rad will need some very high cfm fans to push adequate air through those fins


----------



## zdude

nice, i kind of like it


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chewy*
> 
> Nice!
> Me thinks that rad will need some very high cfm fans to push adequate air through those fins


They looks to be the same density as the EX radiator lineup.

Either way I love it. The enclosure looks really good.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Woofta this will be a tight squeeze to get a 150mm reservoir!
> I am looking at getting an L bracket made to hold it ...does anyone have the mounting brackets for a BP Z Tank handy? I am trying to get the measurements for the brackets that hold the tank.
> I just need the width of the mounting holes...that would be awesome if someone could help!
> Heres a picture:


They are 70mm apart,outside center to outside center


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> After two weeks this has happened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (My phone turned the pic)
> 
> Any ideas why? Im running "purified" with a kill coil


I take it you are talking about the water line on your res. It's from everything that is in your loop, mainly from your rad. Did you flush?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You can easilly repair it with some sodder. If you need help let me know. I've repaired several rads and they all work fine.


This interests me but how?


----------



## zdude

yay UPS left a few goodies on my doorstep





The three running outside of the case will go on my 360 rad whenever it decides to get here (USPS). The fourth is cooling the bottom part of my case where there was a giant dead zone so my Motherboard said the ambient was like 50C and now it is reading low 30's


----------



## jojorockets52

I just installed my very first water cooling loop using the Rasa 750 package this week. I liked how it turned out, but i think i need to reseat my block because my temperatures seem high. In the future I plan to put my 670 underwater also.

I apologize in advance for the crappy cell phone photos







.







All credit goes to num1son for the sweet phantom case window mod!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chewy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice!
> 
> Me thinks that rad will need some very high cfm fans to push adequate air through those fins
Click to expand...

That is awesome looking. I bet FPI is round ~20FPI which shouldn't require a large volume of air to get good temps from it.









My GT Stealth has smaller openings in person than that does in pictures.









~Ceadder


----------



## zdude

USPS actually delivered a package on time


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I take it you are talking about the water line on your res. It's from everything that is in your loop, mainly from your rad. Did you flush?


I was talking more on the water in the res its got a brown tinge to it.
Ive take apart the loop cleaned it all just leak testing now will post pics in a few hours


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojorockets52*
> 
> I just installed my very first water cooling loop using the Rasa 750 package this week. I liked how it turned out, but i think i need to reseat my block because my temperatures seem high. In the future I plan to put my 670 underwater also.
> I apologize in advance for the crappy cell phone photos.
> All credit goes to num1son for the sweet phantom case window mod!


Nice! Looks great if I do say so myself.


----------



## jagz

I think I dodged a bullet with drilling a 30mm screw all the way through my EX360.






Is that sound normal? Everything seem right?

Also do I O-Ring each side of the compression fitting like this?



Or just the threaded side?

Also, I can't manage to get the Monsoon compression fitting off my tubing
- I got it off.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Also do I O-Ring each side of the compression fitting like this?
> 
> Or just the threaded side?
> Also, I can't manage to get the Monsoon compression fitting off my tubing
> 
> Thought cutting it shorter and trying again may help, it didn't. Any ideas? I don't have a hair dryer if heat is 1 way to remove it.


I only put mine on the thread side, not the tubing side. And so far I have not had a single leak.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Threaded side only for O-rings AFAIK. As far as the tubing, you could submerge in hot water and see if that loosens it...


----------



## jagz

Ok thanks. I ended up getting it off, my hands will be sore tomorrow, lol.

So 2 things, first, does everything seem normal with the sound and the water comming in waves in the video?

Also what if I put 2 orings on the threaded side? The one place I had a leak, the fitting connecting to the res, appears to be because the oring isn't making full contact with the res when screwed in all the way.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Ok thanks. I ended up getting it off, my hands will be sore tomorrow, lol.
> 
> So 2 things, first, does everything seem normal with the sound and the water comming in waves in the video?
> 
> Also what if I put 2 orings on the threaded side? The one place I had a leak, the fitting connecting to the res, appears to be because the oring isn't making full contact with the res when screwed in all the way.


As far as I know it is normal due to the system is powering a fair amount of coolant into the Radiator. Also you don't have blocks included in that. I had this happen when I leaktested my pump/top w/o anything else in the loop.

It lessens quite a bit the more components you have in your loop as well as when your Reservoir is completely full. Nothing to worry about. Right now you're over driving your loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## Shogon

New smexy block on the 690! Everything needs water


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are 70mm apart,outside center to outside center


Thanks for the info!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

So now I can't get the coolant to fill the gpu blocks. Any idea as to why?





I'm guessing the little channels got clogged? If so that really sucks considering the coolant was only in the build over night...


----------



## jackofhearts495

She likes the heat from the radiator







(not meant as an official pic of mine for the thread)


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So now I can't get the coolant to fill the gpu blocks. Any idea as to why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing the little channels got clogged? If so that really sucks considering the coolant was only in the build over night...


That just means you don't have enough pressure to force the air out of the blocks, I would try tilting your case and see if that will help.


----------



## jagz

My leak test is going great, when will the water flowing through rad sound stop? I've refilled and refilled and tilted and shook.


----------



## Canis-X

Yes it will, it just takes time


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Well, the system is operational aside from a few bugs. Coolant is still not filling the GPU blocks which looks horrible but the temps are amazing! Ran Heaven 3.0 at 1250MHz/1275mV and temps never got to 50C! Ran Prime 95 on the 3960X at 4.8GHz/1.45V and temps were in the upper 50C's to lower 60C's! With my H80 I couldn't run Prime at this clock speed for more than 3 minutes before temps would hit 90C! Really amazed with this rig at the moment!


----------



## Skoobs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*


that actually looks pretty badass


----------



## gliggo

Take 2! Finally finished my build after two days of drama with the Swiftech Komodo 7970 blocks, finally resorted back to the EK blocks (which have better temps anyway), now just gotta grab back plates for them and all will be sweet









Final step is to make the acrylic door! What do you guys think?


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> She likes the heat from the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (not meant as an official pic of mine for the thread)


Win. I love cats lol.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> After two weeks this has happened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (My phone turned the pic)
> 
> Any ideas why? Im running "purified" with a kill coil


When you say "purified" do you mean purified? Or distilled? They're not the same thing.

@Majin - Looks like you need to shake the ever loving crap out of your tower to get those air bubbles in your blocks to clear. If you tilt it in a way that the bubble side is up and give it some good shakes, it should clear em right up.


----------



## _REAPER_

Final step is to make the acrylic door! What do you guys think?








[/quote]

I did something very similar to my build below are the pics. My psu cover should be done before I leave for RR.

Before PIC



Proposed Changes with Acrylic PSU cover is being built now with acrylic



Pre INSTALL Let me know what you think


FOR PSU COVER


----------



## gliggo

I did something very similar to my build below are the pics. My psu cover should be done before I leave for RR.
Before PIC

Proposed Changes with Acrylic PSU cover is being built now with acrylic


Wow that looks great mate! So pro!







How did you get the artwork on it?

I'm contemplating whether to laser engrave the symbol and writing on the acrylic or just to have it cut out.


----------



## _REAPER_

I did both laser engrave as well as cut it out to see what looked best.. if your going for detail go laser engrave if your going for something to stand out have it cut. Keep in mind if you cut it out you might want to use double layered plexi to give it the effect your looking for.

I will be back home for RR in about 7 days and if you send me a PM I can help guide you through the process and what you should tell the person doing the cutting/ laser inscribing to get the desired result your looking for. I am just lucky my brother has all the equipment to do this.


----------



## CH4PZ

Havent posted in quite sometime, but been running lga2011 since it launched an still havent put any pics up, lol







(dodgey phone pics, an didnt have any cable ties when this was taken)


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Should be a build log for this beauty. Very Nice....


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I did both laser engrave as well as cut it out to see what looked best.. if your going for detail go laser engrave if your going for something to stand out have it cut. Keep in mind if you cut it out you might want to use double layered plexi to give it the effect your looking for.
> I will be back home for RR in about 7 days and if you send me a PM I can help guide you through the process and what you should tell the person doing the cutting/ laser inscribing to get the desired result your looking for. I am just lucky my brother has all the equipment to do this.


Cheers _REAPER_, I'll pm you when you are back from RR and I get started on my acrylic door








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Should be a build log for this beauty. Very Nice....


Thanks mate !







If I had made a build log, it would have been lengthy! I changed my mind so many times during this build! Haha!


----------



## (sic)

A few shots of the rig. Sorry for the noob photography.




























There will hopefully be a build log someday...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Well, the system is operational aside from a few bugs. Coolant is still not filling the GPU blocks which looks horrible but the temps are amazing! Ran Heaven 3.0 at 1250MHz/1275mV and temps never got to 50C! Ran Prime 95 on the 3960X at 4.8GHz/1.45V and temps were in the upper 50C's to lower 60C's! With my H80 I couldn't run Prime at this clock speed for more than 3 minutes before temps would hit 90C! Really amazed with this rig at the moment!


You need to bleed it more. Put the case on its back then run the pumps for a few hours. I had the same problem w/ an FT02BW. Next time you drain it consider running the flow through the blocks the other direction. Might make it easier to bleed.


----------



## Hamy144

Still a work in progress, but ive cleaned my loop new water and a second 360 in the top


----------



## bundymania




----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Whould this 7970
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102961

be compatible with this block?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=34865


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> Whould this 7970
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102961
> be compatible with this block?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=34865


I believe so. That 7970 is the reference design, and it appears that block is for reference-7970s.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> Whould this 7970
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102961
> 
> be compatible with this block?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=34865


yes they are compatible


----------



## Eyedea

Just finished this loop today.

Still have a window to cut out and sleeve ALL cables!


----------



## Saurian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Depends whether u want quad channel ram and need the pcie lanes.


Hmmm. I'm gonna be going eventually with 32 GB Ram and two gtx 670's in SLI. What do you think?


----------



## zzorro




----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> A few shots of the rig. Sorry for the noob photography.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will hopefully be a build log someday...


look nice...








Canis-x hahaha super jelly


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> there is enough room on the top to fit a 480 rad comfortably but on the bottom if you are using a full sized PSU you can only fit a 240...


thanx for the info..







time to order my quad 120mm rad.
i already have a xspc 360 rad for the bottom so i guess
i'll have to make it work.
i think i'm going to flip the PSU on it's side with fan
pointing outwards (which would be kicking the air out
via the front bottom area of the azza 9000)
and the modular connectors pointing directly up.
mount 4 riser feet so i can connect power cable to back (which
would be bottom now). that should give me the extra room on
the bottom. probally have to take out a few things but all in the
name of good lol.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> look nice...


Please use spoilers when quoting posts with pictures so that we all don't have to view the same pictures over and over and over again....thanks


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Just finished this loop today.
> Still have a window to cut out and sleeve ALL cables!


Aww. So cute!

/skripka loves hie Gene-Z 4


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


When can I get one of those? Loving the design over the current dual bay pump / res I have from them.


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> ...
> Take 2! Finally finished my build after two days of drama with the Swiftech Komodo 7970 blocks, finally resorted back to the EK blocks (which have better temps anyway), now just gotta grab back plates for them and all will be sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...]


Seeing your setups color theme, i must say that the swiftech komodos 7970 would be perfect color match for your setup. Its a pitty it did not work and caused all this mess to you.

By the way, what is the idle/full load temperature differences between the EK and the komodo 7970 blocks?


----------



## jagz

It took me a long time but finally under the water. Average at best for a first time loop probably, but i'm happy.





49c at stock clocks for Prime? Is that there abouts what it should be? Air comming out doesn't even feel hot & I do wonder if my 1 DDC pump is enough to get everything good?


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> By the way, what is the idle/full load temperature differences between the EK and the komodo 7970 blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> For the EK I had idle temps of 27 degrees and load temps of 40 degrees overclocked. On stock clocks the load temperature was 36 degrees.
> 
> As for the Swiftech Komodos, idle temps of 32 and load temps of 44 overclocked.
> 
> It's only a few degrees difference but some reason I feel more confident in the EK blocks. I'll give the Komodos a try again soon when I can be bothered taking it apart again - looks are worth the few degrees lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> For the EK I had idle temps of 27 degrees and load temps of 40 degrees overclocked. On stock clocks the load temperature was 36 degrees.
> As for the Swiftech Komodos, idle temps of 32 and load temps of 44 overclocked.
> It's only a few degrees difference but some reason I feel more confident in the EK blocks. I'll give the Komodos a try again soon when I can be bothered taking it apart again - looks are worth the few degrees lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


Ouaou, thats quite a temp difference! I thought it would be less...

Still, even with the EK your rig is a beauty


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> For the EK I had idle temps of 27 degrees and load temps of 40 degrees overclocked. On stock clocks the load temperature was 36 degrees.
> As for the Swiftech Komodos, idle temps of 32 and load temps of 44 overclocked.
> It's only a few degrees difference but some reason I feel more confident in the EK blocks. I'll give the Komodos a try again soon when I can be bothered taking it apart again - looks are worth the few degrees lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Ouaou, thats quite a temp difference! I thought it would be less...
> 
> Still, even with the EK your rig is a beauty
Click to expand...

Thanks mate







if I install my Komodos on again before you get your standoffs ill let you know if temps are any better!









Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## moutwtrng

Praise God! I'm finally finished w/ this major upgrade! I guess I was pretty fortunate to have no leaks on the first try of building a full watercooled rig. Anyway, here she is!....
From this: 2009








Shot at 2009-03-04

To this: 2011








Shot at 2011-06-20

And NOW....THIS: 2012








Shot at 2012-07-28








Shot at 2012-07-28








Shot at 2012-07-28








Shot at 2012-07-28








Shot at 2012-07-28








Shot at 2012-07-28








Shot at 2012-07-28








Shot at 2012-07-28

I was so ready to buy a new case but for some odd reason, I cannot let this case go!!!!?!!?
Anyway hope you all enjoy!


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys,
My BP 150mm reservoir came in today. In my excitement I opened it and realized how large it actually was.
I made a quick mount to hold the reservoir and no matter what I do I cannot get this thing to fit the way I want/need.

I am thinking about going online and just ordering 80mm tank and the 40mm tank just to keep my options open.
Here is what I am dealing with.
Please excuse the shininess. As you can see the outlet on the pump touches the reservoir.
I am trying to keep the barbs on the reservoir lined up with the barbs on the radiator.
Pretty much what I am trying to do on the bottom of the reservoir as well.

If you guys have any suggestions for me please let me know. Otherwise I will just order those other tanks.

My next thought was to take out the fans and see if that will give me the room I am needing to make it all work. Is there an issue with having the fans blow air into the case?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys,
> My BP 150mm reservoir came in today. In my excitement I opened it and realized how large it actually was.
> I made a quick mount to hold the reservoir and no matter what I do I cannot get this thing to fit the way I want/need.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking about going online and just ordering 80mm tank and the 40mm tank just to keep my options open.
> Here is what I am dealing with.
> Please excuse the shininess. As you can see the outlet on the pump touches the reservoir.
> I am trying to keep the barbs on the reservoir lined up with the barbs on the radiator.
> Pretty much what I am trying to do on the bottom of the reservoir as well.
> If you guys have any suggestions for me please let me know. Otherwise I will just order those other tanks.
> My next thought was to take out the fans and see if that will give me the room I am needing to make it all work. Is there an issue with having the fans blow air into the case?
> Thanks for the help!


Maybe one of these http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/bitspower-carbon-black-dual-ig14-extender-25mm/ on your pump inlet? They come in 5mm - 50mm iirc.


----------



## audioholic

I actually think I have it figure out. I just screwed the mounts onto my fan and it is solid. I wont be moving the case once its in position so it should be fine








Thanks for the link!


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I actually think I have it figure out. I just screwed the mounts onto my fan and it is solid. I wont be moving the case once its in position so it should be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link!


Glad to hear you got it working, good luck with the build.


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Take 2! Finally finished my build after two days of drama with the Swiftech Komodo 7970 blocks, finally resorted back to the EK blocks (which have better temps anyway), now just gotta grab back plates for them and all will be sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow build looks great! how did u achieve that color of fluid. i tired blood red in mine and ended up with dull koolaid lol


----------



## jojorockets52

My CPU temperatures on my 2500k are at 60c on stock clocks. I am running a Rasa 750 kit with the 360mm radiator (RS) with a push/pull configuration (three pushing air through and two pulling out). Do these temps seem high?


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> wow build looks great! how did u achieve that color of fluid. i tired blood red in mine and ended up with dull koolaid lol
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers mates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the dye I used is Mayhems UV Red X1 concentrate with distilled water - this one here:
> http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/mayhems-x1-uv-red-coolant/
> The thumbnail in the link looks pink but its not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope this helps.
Click to expand...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojorockets52*
> 
> My CPU temperatures on my 2500k are at 60c on stock clocks. I am running a Rasa 750 kit with the 360mm radiator (RS) with a push/pull configuration (three pushing air through and two pulling out). Do these temps seem high?


I dunno, but if I were you I would create a help thread in the Intel section. If you're going to get worthwhile feedback that's the place to look.

60c seems kind of high imho, but having zero experience with 2500k temps I couldn't say for certain.









~Ceadder


----------



## jagz

I feel my new loop temps are high too, it's a xspc raystorm with a ex360 rad, 68-70c at 4.6Ghz (1.280v) on a 2700k at full load ([email protected]) This normal?


----------



## derickwm

For that kind of voltage that is high. Pics and setup info?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys,
> My BP 150mm reservoir came in today. In my excitement I opened it and realized how large it actually was.
> I made a quick mount to hold the reservoir and no matter what I do I cannot get this thing to fit the way I want/need.
> I am thinking about going online and just ordering 80mm tank and the 40mm tank just to keep my options open.
> Here is what I am dealing with.
> Please excuse the shininess. As you can see the outlet on the pump touches the reservoir.
> I am trying to keep the barbs on the reservoir lined up with the barbs on the radiator.
> Pretty much what I am trying to do on the bottom of the reservoir as well.
> If you guys have any suggestions for me please let me know. Otherwise I will just order those other tanks.
> My next thought was to take out the fans and see if that will give me the room I am needing to make it all work. Is there an issue with having the fans blow air into the case?
> Thanks for the help!


spin the reservoir 180 degrees, use a bitspower extender fitting, or lay the pump on its side and use a 90 degree fitting.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> When can I get one of those? Loving the design over the current dual bay pump / res I have from them.


You can find the on the xspc store and on many other sites
Here without the pump: http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-D5-Dual-Bay-Reservoir-for-ONE-Laing-D5-Pump-New-Product-pid-15903.html


----------



## _REAPER_

Round 2 let me know if you guys think I should get anything else or if there anything else I should get. Keep in mind this will only be for my CPU. I am waiting for the 7 series to come out from NVIDIA before I WC any GPU


----------



## mandrix

Kill coil? I don't know, hard to say what kind of fittings you'll need. I find triple rotaries very useful, but I seem to change my loop every week lately. Triples make a nice clean 90*.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I feel my new loop temps are high too, it's a xspc raystorm with a ex360 rad, 68-70c at 4.6Ghz (1.280v) on a 2700k at full load ([email protected]) This normal?


a bit on the high mark.i'm running practically the same
OC profile as you are but getting 28*C on idle and
about 48 to 50*C w/100% load.
(in winter i get 19*C and about 40*C w/full load)
although i do
have a 360 + 140 rads.
i'm curious you said "your new loop" . Is this loop a brand new comp/loop
or is this a previously existing loop that you took apart and re-arranged
and put back together again?
What's your ambient room temp?
try ajusting your voltage a bit ( i had almost a 10 degree drop just
by ajusting the voltage one time on my 2700k).
maybe air caught in loop (tilt comp while throttling the pump speed),
the cpu block might not be on right.. the list goes on and on lol.

Have a good one.

i got alot to teach but even more to learn.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojorockets52*
> 
> My CPU temperatures on my 2500k are at 60c on stock clocks. I am running a Rasa 750 kit with the 360mm radiator (RS) with a push/pull configuration (three pushing air through and two pulling out). Do these temps seem high?


Very high for stock, I know it sounds dumb, but did you take the plastic cover off the block? I only ask because I have see people do it. How tight did you screw the block down?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I feel my new loop temps are high too, it's a xspc raystorm with a ex360 rad, 68-70c at 4.6Ghz (1.280v) on a 2700k at full load ([email protected]) This normal?


Like others said, a little high. What fans and rpm's are you running?


----------



## jagz

Not an existing loop, everythings new. Fans are bgears b-blasters at max speed. Ambient is probably 25c. I'm at 70c on the cores right now, My NH-D14 would be doing better. I posted pics a few pages back but:





XSPC Dual Bay res with DDC Pump > Into inlet on XSPC Raystorm > Exit's Raystorm into EX360, EX360 sends it to res...


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Not an existing loop, everythings new. Fans are bgears b-blasters at max speed. Ambient is probably 25c. I'm at 70c on the cores right now, My NH-D14 would be doing better. I posted pics a few pages back but:
> 
> 
> XSPC Dual Bay res with DDC Pump > Into inlet on XSPC Raystorm > Exit's Raystorm into EX360, EX360 sends it to res...


Too much tubing.....


----------



## tuffarts

Went and got a cheapish camera today, I thought it would be better than it is.
Anyway here is my rig as it stands today.

The bit in between

And the Radiator _that is pointed at a door that isn't used, so I can keep the heat or vent it from my room_


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I suspect you may have a bad mount of the Raystorm or that your flow may be inadequate. What kind of pump and did you manage to bleed out all of the air?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Too much tubing.....


Can't pull res out to fill if it's any shorter, As for the tube on the left.. Any shorter and it will kink, I could use an angled fitting there yea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I suspect you may have a bad mount of the Raystorm or that your flow may be inadequate. What kind of pump and did you manage to bleed out all of the air?


DDC pump from ocn bmaverick, I worry it's not strong enough too, the inlet feels like alot of flow (Res to Block), the exit tube I barely feel anything (Block to Rad)

I hope all it is, is a bad raystorm mount. It's quite even though, plastic thing removed, MX-2 used..


----------



## lowfat

The pump is plenty strong enough. Any DDC shouldn't have problem w/ any normal loop. I'd try reseating the block as suggested first. Then make sure the loop is completely bleed. Don't put your expectations too high though. A 2600k doesn't throw a ton of heat, so moving to water won't decrease your temps more than a couple of degrees. You should be able to drop your fan speed considerably and maintain good temps though.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I dunno, I've seen a MASSIVE improvement in temps with my 3960X since going water. I can run Prime95 at 5GHz / 1.5V now with temps in the 60C's whereas before with my H80 I couldn't even run Prime for 2 minutes at 4.8GHz before temps went over 90C...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I dunno, I've seen a MASSIVE improvement in temps with my 3960X since going water. I can run Prime95 at 5GHz / 1.5V now with temps in the 60C's whereas before with my H80 I couldn't even run Prime for 2 minutes at 4.8GHz before temps went over 90C...


Your CPU also throws out considerably more heat than his does.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> spin the reservoir 180 degrees, use a bitspower extender fitting, or lay the pump on its side and use a 90 degree fitting.


I actually got it to work right. Thanks for the suggestion.
I just need to get my tubing all set up


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The pump is plenty strong enough. Any DDC shouldn't have problem w/ any normal loop. I'd try reseating the block as suggested first. Then make sure the loop is completely bleed. Don't put your expectations too high though. A 2600k doesn't throw a ton of heat, so moving to water won't decrease your temps more than a couple of degrees. You should be able to drop your fan speed considerably and maintain good temps though.


A couple of degrees? I went from an H80 to a custom loop and dropped 15-20.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I feel my new loop temps are high too, it's a xspc raystorm with a ex360 rad, 68-70c at 4.6Ghz (1.280v) on a 2700k at full load ([email protected]) This normal?


How much TIM did you use? Pea size? Or full spread? What is your pump? 70C load does not seem that high to me, but I have never used a 2700k. I have a 3770k at 4.6 1.280v full load is about 74C avg.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The pump is plenty strong enough. Any DDC shouldn't have problem w/ any normal loop. I'd try reseating the block as suggested first. Then make sure the loop is completely bleed. Don't put your expectations too high though. A 2600k doesn't throw a ton of heat, so moving to water won't decrease your temps more than a couple of degrees. You should be able to drop your fan speed considerably and maintain good temps though.


Thanks for the input. Well my D14 did much better than the loop is doing now. How to make sure it's completely bled? I ran the loop for some 14 hours before I even fired up the pc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> How much TIM did you use? Pea size? Or full spread? What is your pump? 70C load does not seem that high to me, but I have never used a 2700k. I have a 3770k at 4.6 1.280v full load is about 74C avg.


Standard pea size I've always done with heatsink. Temps were always optimal. My raystorm is on pretty darn tight maybe I should loosen the block?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Thanks for the input. Well my D14 did much better than the loop is doing now. How to make sure it's completely bled? I ran the loop for some 14 hours before I even fired up the pc.


Try tilting the case back and forth and side to side while the pump is running. Might knock loose some trapped air bubbles.


----------



## Humafold

Okay. My first attempt at WC. Right now I'm about 52C under full Prime load and locked in. HUGE difference from the 70C I would get under Prime at 4.6ghz 1.35v on my Noctua. I still have to clean up a few wires and get a GPU block and 1 more rad, but it's a good start.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lovin that cable management!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lovin that cable management!


You should see the backside of the motherboard tray. It is honestly even better.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Try tilting the case back and forth and side to side while the pump is running. Might knock loose some trapped air bubbles.


Yeah I did this bigtime when I was running that 10+ hour leak test. Was even holding this behomoth Switch 810 upsidedown, sideways, shake, tilt.. you name it.

I'm now running Prime at 4.6Ghz, 1.260v but 70c across the cores still, even with really low voltage

How tight should the raystorm be on, anyone? I notice the edges are downwards, not like a straight line (As in the ends of the X shape are lower than the middle)


----------



## Fultonloyn

Okay, so interesting problem after my battle with high temps last week...










To try and elimate some variables, I fit my other block, that came with my rasa kit, onto my loop...what happens? TEMPS ARE NORMAL.

SO, something has gone awry when i cleaned my Raystorm block. Suggestions? I cannot really think of anything i would have assembled wrong. It is pretty easy. Maybe the gasket is not sealing all the way?

EDIT: took off the copper....







It was clogged with...something..i dont even know what it was..but im going to re-vinegar/brasso it and make sure it is washed real good with distilled and try again.


----------



## Triscuit

not done yet but here is my system as it stands.... (needed it up before it was done) I would love to join here







it's not the prettiest but it works for now. I need a new rad and cpu block. I am thinking about going to the xspc KIT and using my pump and putting this stuff in my wifes pc.


----------



## n3farious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moutwtrng*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Quoted Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot at 2012-07-28
> I was so ready to buy a new case but for some odd reason, I cannot let this case go!!!!?!!?
> Anyway hope you all enjoy!


I wouldn't want to give it up either.. it's gorgeous.









One question though... why do you have all of those ferrite cores on the power cables?


----------



## lawndart

Here is mine it isnt purdy but it is my 1st real water cooling


Soon the case and watercooling will be going through a major mod and I will post pics again.

LawnDart


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I did this bigtime when I was running that 10+ hour leak test. Was even holding this behomoth Switch 810 upsidedown, sideways, shake, tilt.. you name it.
> I'm now running Prime at 4.6Ghz, 1.260v but 70c across the cores still, even with really low voltage
> 
> 
> How tight should the raystorm be on, anyone? I notice the edges are downwards, not like a straight line (As in the ends of the X shape are lower than the middle)


Can you post a close up pic of the block as that doesn't sound right, also did you flush your rad before using?

@ Bundy, I looked at every res on the market for my new build and that OCool would be perfect, unfortunately I have already purchased another


----------



## Eyedea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> How tight should the raystorm be on, anyone? I notice the edges are downwards, not like a straight line (As in the ends of the X shape are lower than the middle)


Mine bows like that a little bit, i wouldnt worry, im certainly not


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Can you post a close up pic of the block as that doesn't sound right, also did you flush your rad before using?
> @ Bundy, I looked at every res on the market for my new build and that OCool would be perfect, unfortunately I have already purchased another


Yep flushed it. Yeah I'll see what I can do pic wise, about to put it on a work bench and plug the pumps in different headers anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Mine bows like that a little bit, i wouldnt worry, im certainly not


Alright, now im beginning to think of another possible cause. I have my pumps (the Kuhler 620 pumps too) connected to the fan hub in the back of the Switch 810. I wonder if they aren't being given full power... My GPU temps are higher too.

Thanks for all the help so many of you, at this point I think I should have made a thread instead of using this one, but thanks again.


----------



## simonfredette

I was going to say im done building my switch but its far from done , I was in atlanta for 3 months for work and was only back in ontario canada for 2 weeks with my wife and kid before leaving again for 2 more months this time in little rock arkansas .. I wanted to spend as much time with the family while I was back home but also needed to get the parts I needed and get the build to at least a running state ... I still need cable extensions and wire management and even tubing management , also going to change the position of the rx240 so I have somewhere to mount my hard drive so its not just hanging there.. Im open to comments , keep in mind there is still a ton of work to be done!!


Spoiler: Pictures





poor quality iphone pics .. only the best for you guys!


----------



## jojorockets52

My 2500k temperatures are as follows:

Core#0= 56C
Core#1= 59C
Core#2= 57C
Core#3= 54C
Core Package= 61C

I'm using the Rasa 750 kit with a 360mm radiator with fans in a push/pull configuration. Should I re-seat my CPU block?


----------



## simonfredette

no thats about what I get with my raystorm while folding , cores are just under 60 and my gpus around 40 , that is on load though right , and is the cpu overclocked ?


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Okay, so interesting problem after my battle with high temps last week...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To try and elimate some variables, I fit my other block, that came with my rasa kit, onto my loop...what happens? TEMPS ARE NORMAL.
> SO, something has gone awry when i cleaned my Raystorm block. Suggestions? I cannot really think of anything i would have assembled wrong. It is pretty easy. Maybe the gasket is not sealing all the way?
> EDIT: took off the copper....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was clogged with...something..i dont even know what it was..but im going to re-vinegar/brasso it and make sure it is washed real good with distilled and try again.


You can also try lemon juice instead of vinegar


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawndart*


I dig the pink, ever plan on cooling those 570s?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


The perforated metal surrounding all the components is downright smexy!


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice res, the perforated metal covers everywhere is jaw-dropping. Build log for this somewhere?


----------



## PCModderMike

Hi guys







I'm done, again...maybe for the last time








And until I can pick up some 670 blocks


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Nice Mike! You do any vids for your Youtube channel?


----------



## rj2




----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Nice Mike! You do any vids for your Youtube channel?


Thanks! I didn't have anything in the works just for the build...but I was going to go over it a little with some other stuff








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rj2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it







What case is that?


----------



## rj2

the venerable tagan black pearl.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thanks! I didn't have anything in the works just for the build...but I was going to go over it a little with some other stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case is that?


Awesome, I love your channel. Check out mine soon (MegaTechPC) as I did an entire build log for my TJ11 WC monster build! Still editing as of right now...


----------



## netdevil

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Hi guys







I'm done, again...maybe for the last time








And until I can pick up some 670 blocks










That is beautiful. The coolant you have in there is that by any chance Mayhem Pastel Blueberry? Love that bitspower modkit as well blends in with everything blue


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triscuit*
> 
> not done yet but here is my system as it stands.... (needed it up before it was done) I would love to join here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's not the prettiest but it works for now. I need a new rad and cpu block. I am thinking about going to the xspc KIT and using my pump and putting this stuff in my wifes pc.


Good just making use of that case lol. I had it for awhile its a pain to WC decently lol.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Yep flushed it. Yeah I'll see what I can do pic wise, about to put it on a work bench and plug the pumps in different headers anyway.
> Alright, now im beginning to think of another possible cause. I have my pumps (the Kuhler 620 pumps too) connected to the fan hub in the back of the Switch 810. I wonder if they aren't being given full power... My GPU temps are higher too.
> Thanks for all the help so many of you, at this point I think I should have made a thread instead of using this one, but thanks again.


I wouldn't wire my pumps to those 3 pin connections on the fan hub of the Switch, that could be a weak point for power delivery.
Now, I do have my 655 running off my FC9, but I'm using dual inputs (2x3 pin to 4 pin) with 18 gauge wire to 2 outputs on the FC9. The weak point is the 3 pin connectors, though. The MCP655 (mine) pulls 1.8A wide open, or about 22 watts. That's a lot for a single 3 pin connector to handle. I pulled out that fan hub and threw it in a box with other stuff I pulled off the Switch and use 2 fan controllers instead.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Awesome, I love your channel. Check out mine soon (MegaTechPC) as I did an entire build log for my TJ11 WC monster build! Still editing as of right now...


Very cool, I'll check it out









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm done, again...maybe for the last time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And until I can pick up some 670 blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is beautiful. The coolant you have in there is that by any chance Mayhem Pastel Blueberry? Love that bitspower modkit as well blends in with everything blue


Thank you....the coolant is Ice Dragon with PrimoChill dye bomb added to give it the color.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I wouldn't wire my pumps to those 3 pin connections on the fan hub of the Switch, that could be a weak point for power delivery.
> Now, I do have my 655 running off my FC9, but I'm using dual inputs (2x3 pin to 4 pin) with 18 gauge wire to 2 outputs on the FC9. The weak point is the 3 pin connectors, though. The MCP655 (mine) pulls 1.8A wide open, or about 22 watts. That's a lot for a single 3 pin connector to handle. I pulled out that fan hub and threw it in a box with other stuff I pulled off the Switch and use 2 fan controllers instead.


Nice info. I ended up using molex to 3 pin connectors for my Kuhler 620 pumps and the CPU PWR (4 Pin, It's on max in bios.. hope that's good enough) for my DDC pump.

I have further narrowed down my cause of fairly high temps, a civil war for air. When I leave my case side off, my temperatures are about 3 to 5c cooler. The reason is my Kuhler 620's on my 580's with a push pull fan configuration intake from the case and exhaust out the front. The EX360's configuration is push air from within the case out the top. I feel reversing either of these fan configuration's would be to no avail. If I pulled outside air through the EX360 into the case, it would then go through my kuhler rads. If I reversed the kuhler's fans, it would dumb substantial amounts of heat which would go through the EX360. If I pulled in from both of them, I would not be able to dump the heat out fast enough just through the back (if I closed my side panel)

I could not articulate my thoughts as well as I wanted to right there ^^ hope it's understandable.










I will say this, This 2700k is amazing. I'm running clocks at almost 0.100v less than my 2600k could. (1.265v vs 1.350v on 2600k for same 4.6Ghz)


----------



## Triscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Good just making use of that case lol. I had it for awhile its a pain to WC decently lol.


I like it a lot. But yes it is a pain to have water cooling in here. I keep playing with the layout trying to make it look it's best and i keep making it cleaner and cleaner so that's a plus at least!


----------



## bomberjun

working on my 800D right now for a 360+240 below and 360 on top panel.

At the bottom cage, I do have a 360 radiator in there and also planning to mount another 240 radiator (which currently im not using) at the back of the 360 in a push pull config on both rads with yateloons. It will have another same mesh for exhaust at the back panel.



I think it will provide a better airflow for rads this time.


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triscuit*
> 
> I like it a lot. But yes it is a pain to have water cooling in here. I keep playing with the layout trying to make it look it's best and i keep making it cleaner and cleaner so that's a plus at least!


lol ya i gave up when i needed to WC my tri sli there just wasnt enough room lol. Awesome case for air cooling though that thing was a beast.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Very cool, I'll check it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you....the coolant is Ice Dragon with PrimoChill dye bomb added to give it the color.


cool coolant
i was thinking of getting this coolant possibly.
i know there are alot of other variables other than coolant
but what are your temps like / OC profile.
nice rig by the way








although i see room for another double 120 rad on the bottom.
ever consider slapping some blocks on those GPU's?


----------



## trulsrohk

Almost done...do need to get the second 7970 back in there


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> cool coolant
> i was thinking of getting this coolant possibly.
> i know there are alot of other variables other than coolant
> but what are your temps like / OC profile.
> nice rig by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although i see room for another double 120 rad on the bottom.
> ever consider slapping some blocks on those GPU's?


Hehehe thanks. Yes, I have considered blocking the 670's. Check my log, you'll see this is like the 4th revision of this build...originally everything was water cooled, two 570's and the 2700K. The blocks I want are coming out tomorrow if I remember correctly? So yea, in good time








Also temps are good, cores hit 49-50-51-50 Celsius under load with an ambient temp of 26-27 Celsius.
EDIT: Dur, I guess clock speeds would be helpful right







That's the 2700K at 4.5GHz.


----------



## moutwtrng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3farious*
> 
> I wouldn't want to give it up either.. it's gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One question though... why do you have all of those ferrite cores on the power cables?


Thanks for the compliment! This was my first case the Antec 1200 and I have put so much time into it that I cant let it go.... The only thing I wist it had was more expansion slots for vid cards...

Anyway, the ferrite cores on those cables are standard on the Corsair AX1200 psu. I'm guessing to prevent EMF disruption on other components when on full load on the PSU?!?

Which makes me think of another question then.....

Should I be worried of EMF radiating from the case specially since I have a full window??


----------



## conntick

Bundy do you have any more pics of that meshy rig you posted?


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trulsrohk*
> 
> 
> Almost done...do need to get the second 7970 back in there






Beauty-full rig man







I sure love green


----------



## trulsrohk

Thanks, I still need to add some uv lights to it so that i can get a tan when im using it

Turn it up Reggie, I wanna burn!


----------



## johnko1

Finally all parts came.The last ones were gt ap-15,angles,silver coil and tubing.I will post pics by the end of the week


----------



## superericla

Dwood is making some great progress on the bench I ordered from him...



It's going to hold dual EX420 radiators in the bottom.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Dwood is making some great progress on the bench I ordered from him...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's going to hold dual EX420 radiators in the bottom.


That thing is as big as a std case. I love it!









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That thing is as big as a std case. I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It should have most of the space and features of a standard case, in a more portable shape. I believe he's going to be adding handles on it as well to carry it by and the open sides will be covered in mesh.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Figured I'd add these into the gallery:







Updated Coolers:





Full build log here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1202757/build-log-project-rainfall-july-motm-nominee


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Nice info. I ended up using molex to 3 pin connectors for my Kuhler 620 pumps and the CPU PWR (4 Pin, It's on max in bios.. hope that's good enough) for my DDC pump.
> I have further narrowed down my cause of fairly high temps, a civil war for air. When I leave my case side off, my temperatures are about 3 to 5c cooler. The reason is my Kuhler 620's on my 580's with a push pull fan configuration intake from the case and exhaust out the front. The EX360's configuration is push air from within the case out the top. I feel reversing either of these fan configuration's would be to no avail. If I pulled outside air through the EX360 into the case, it would then go through my kuhler rads. If I reversed the kuhler's fans, it would dumb substantial amounts of heat which would go through the EX360. If I pulled in from both of them, I would not be able to dump the heat out fast enough just through the back (if I closed my side panel)
> I could not articulate my thoughts as well as I wanted to right there ^^ hope it's understandable.
> I will say this, This 2700k is amazing. I'm running clocks at almost 0.100v less than my 2600k could. (1.265v vs 1.350v on 2600k for same 4.6Ghz)


I highly recommend setting all radiators and their fans to intake with maybe a couple of exhaust fans on the back and see what your temps would be. I think they'd be _much_ better than you would expect. As hole-y as the 1200 is I don't think you need to worry about having hot air build up inside the case. With your major heat-producing components on water anyway it really wouldn't matter. I had the 1200 for years, up until I recently replaced it with my FD Arc Midi. It is a great case for air cooling, I'm always glad to see people putting it under water!

If you do try my suggestion please post the results, I'd be very curious to see some numbers and such. Thanks!


----------



## Shogon

Changed the tubing to Watts, I did a poor job last time and could of had a accident lol.

Added a drain port, and used my old snake adapter I had for months to connect the CPU to the VREG.


----------



## SuperTBonE

Hi Folks-

I'm new to OCN, new to water cooling and really, new to forums...

I've been building pc's for years and years... this is my first water cooler.



This picture was taken last year right after I finished building it for the first time.

I've since swapped out the motherboard (pictured is a Foxconn FlamingBlade- I now have an ASUS Rampage III Formula) and hard drives. I also cleaned up some of the cabling that I was not happy with.

I did the entire build myself including the paint and sleeving- so please be gentle.

I will add more pictures and build log when I have time.

Cheers.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperTBonE*
> 
> Hi Folks-
> I'm new to OCN, new to water cooling and really, new to forums...
> I've been building pc's for years and years... this is my first water cooler.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture was taken last year right after I finished building it for the first time.
> I've since swapped out the motherboard (pictured is a Foxconn FlamingBlade- I now have an ASUS Rampage III Formula) and hard drives. I also cleaned up some of the cabling that I was not happy with.
> I did the entire build myself including the paint and sleeving- so please be gentle.
> I will add more pictures and build log when I have time.
> Cheers.


The Raven is so hard to watercool, nice job there!


----------



## audioholic

Will having a drain port of the res be as successful as on right off the pump? unfortunately I do not have room to get a T in there


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Will having a drain port of the res be as successful as on right off the pump? unfortunately I do not have room to get a T in there


You want your DP at the lowest point of the loop. Off the reservoir is okay but not optimal as having it there can leave a certain amount of coolant behind. You have plenty of room for a Q port or 4way block, using 2 plugs and two connections.









~Ceadder


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperTBonE*
> 
> Hi Folks-
> I'm new to OCN, new to water cooling and really, new to forums...
> I've been building pc's for years and years... this is my first water cooler.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture was taken last year right after I finished building it for the first time.
> I've since swapped out the motherboard (pictured is a Foxconn FlamingBlade- I now have an ASUS Rampage III Formula) and hard drives. I also cleaned up some of the cabling that I was not happy with.
> I did the entire build myself including the paint and sleeving- so please be gentle.
> I will add more pictures and build log when I have time.
> Cheers.


Nice Rig. I don't see that many RV02's with an RX120 and an RX360. Makes me miss my old set up. Everything looks balanced and clean, except the SLi bridge. But nice work and more pictures please.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That thing is as big as a std case. I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I wouldn't even touch an STD case


----------



## superericla

I'll be getting ~$150 soon. Any upgrade ideas for my build?


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'll be getting ~$150 soon. Any upgrade ideas for my build?


MOAR RAD!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> MOAR RAD!


Haha, I would but I already have dual 420 radiators cooling just a CPU and GPU loop.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> MOAR RAD!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, I would but I already have dual 420 radiators cooling just a CPU and GPU loop.
Click to expand...

grab another monitor, then eyefinity later.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> grab another monitor, then eyefinity later.


That's actually a pretty good suggestion.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> grab another monitor, then eyefinity later.
> 
> 
> 
> That's actually a pretty good suggestion.
Click to expand...

you've got too much power to be pushing 1920x1080


----------



## superericla

Very good point. I have a potential sponsor coming up soon so there's not much reason to upgrade the water cooling further quite yet anyhow. I'll look into getting another/larger monitor.


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno but here is what I'd be looking at...

New Comps if you're running Barbs or cheapo Comps.

New Monitor if you have all the Water Cooling sorted out...

New Radiator anyway. Can never have too many and it's nice to have a spare for that JiC moment. Or even some more blingage for the water cooling. i.e. New tubing, lights, dress up kits for the D5 battery, another D5(?







) shoot I could have that $150 spent in a few minutes...







hmmm you know what? Eff that bro be my sponsor. Hep a brotha out.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

I thought about possibly getting a second D5 pump and running them in series, it could be a good option. With the case I'll be using there's no more room for radiators past the two 420 rads. I have 8 NZXT FN-140 and 2 FN-120 fans if you happen to need some fans.









I'll probably use some of the money to upgrade my current fans to Cougar fans, but that still leaves over $100.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I thought about possibly getting a second D5 pump and running them in series, it could be a good option. With the case I'll be using there's no more room for radiators past the two 420 rads. I have 8 NZXT FN-140 and 2 FN-120 fans if you happen to need some fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll probably use some of the money to upgrade my current fans to Cougar fans, but that still leaves over $100.


Na man, I'm good. I could always use fans but I'm not stumping for anything. Just bein cheeky.









~Ceadder


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'll be getting ~$150 soon. Any upgrade ideas for my build?


You should get an ssd.In such a powerful rig,ssd is a must,you will notice great performance difference


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> You should get an ssd.In such a powerful rig,ssd is a must,you will notice great performance difference


I actually didn't benefit much from an SSD, I sold the one I used to use actually. The only benefit for me is boot-up times which aren't bad as it is and I rarely reboot.

Edit: Which fan is better, COUGAR CF-V14HB or Akasa Apache Black?


----------



## wermad

Thought I stopped by and say hi and look at some rigs












































Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Dwood is making some great progress on the bench I ordered from him...
> 
> It's going to hold dual EX420 radiators in the bottom.


Check out Alphacool UT60 420mm rad if you haven't gotten the EK rads








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Figured I'd add these into the gallery:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Updated Coolers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full build log here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1202757/build-log-project-rainfall-july-motm-nominee


The top is really intriguing. Going to read your log, super nice and very interesting








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the tubing to Watts, I did a poor job last time and could of had a accident lol.
> Added a drain port, and used my old snake adapter I had for months to connect the CPU to the VREG.


Needs a little wire management and it should tidy up the look







. How's the Watts? I had tried that before and it held up ok before it plasticized in a few weeks. A bit rigid but not bad for the price








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperTBonE*
> 
> Hi Folks-
> I'm new to OCN, new to water cooling and really, new to forums...
> I've been building pc's for years and years... this is my first water cooler.
> 
> This picture was taken last year right after I finished building it for the first time.
> I've since swapped out the motherboard (pictured is a Foxconn FlamingBlade- I now have an ASUS Rampage III Formula) and hard drives. I also cleaned up some of the cabling that I was not happy with.
> I did the entire build myself including the paint and sleeving- so please be gentle.
> I will add more pictures and build log when I have time.
> Cheers.


I saw this earlier in a thread about the RV02 and a 360mm rad. Looks very impressive







. I've seen a few modded with a triple 180mm radiator (on the FT02 as well). Very awesome looking


----------



## superericla

I already have the XSPC EX420 radiators, but the UT60 will make a nice upgrade at some point.


----------



## broken pixel

Just finished my new loop with Dual head top, a 120 rad + 240 rad and the Raystorm block.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Just finished my new loop with Dual head top, a 120 rad + 240 rad and the Raystorm block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice setup, btw I have the same HOTAS and pedals, you must be a flight sim fan as well.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Using dual pumps is causing quite a bit of bubbles to in appear and stay in my resevoir. I know air is constantly going through my loop because I can hear it and see the bubbles running through the pumps. Any way to stop this?


----------



## driftingforlife

Give you rig a good shake. I do this and it does the job, just don't have the RIG powerd on, just jump the PSU when doing it.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Give you rig a good shake. I do this and it does the job, just don't have the RIG powerd on, just jump the PSU when doing it.


Doesnt help, mainly because running these pumps together creates so much pressure that the water in my tube reservoir is constantly sloshing around. While it does look cool im afraid all that air cant be good for temps.


----------



## driftingforlife

How is your RES set-up (on the inside)


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Please. anyone with an Azza 9000 can you do me a favour
and measure the space from the top of your motherboard
to the top of the case (right where you can fit a quad rad.)
i'm thinking of getting a quad rad but might go slim if
there isn't enough room but i haven't ordered case yet and
want to get liquid cooling stuff first (almost done. only need quad
rad and CPU block)
thanks everyone. much appreciated if someone could do this.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Please. anyone with an Azza 9000 can you do me a favour
> and measure the space from the top of your motherboard
> to the top of the case (right where you can fit a quad rad.)
> i'm thinking of getting a quad rad but might go slim if
> there isn't enough room but i haven't ordered case yet and
> want to get liquid cooling stuff first (almost done. only need quad
> rad and CPU block)
> thanks everyone. much appreciated if someone could do this.


You would want to speak to this guy, he should be able to help you out.


----------



## broken pixel

Usually by leaving the cap to the res open for a few hours with the loop running. I used distilled water this time and did not have the air bubble problem when using store bought fluids.


----------



## mandrix

Having some temp problems with the cpu, about 9 or 10 degrees hotter under load than my other rig with only a Rasa 750 RX240 with Raystorm Acetyl block, no gpu cooled. same mobo and cpu.
The gpu temp has been good, but still concerned about the cpu. I added the second pump on the left thinking it might help me purge air but not a lot of help.
I have tilted/shook/changed rpm up and down on the pumps, can't hear any gurgling in the rads when I tilt so I'm not sure if the air is out or not, or the Raystorm is not operating up to snuff.
The fill cap is on loosely so as to let any air escape.
I'm out of ideas.
This rig has an EX240 rad/RX360 rad and now the two MCP655 pumps.

I'm thinking of putting my old Rasa cpu block on to see if there's any change in cpu temps?


----------



## Onions

you added a gpu into the loop its gonna be hotter?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Having some temp problems with the cpu, about 9 or 10 degrees hotter under load than my other rig with only a Rasa 750 RX240 with Raystorm Acetyl block, no gpu cooled. same mobo and cpu.
> The gpu temp has been good, but still concerned about the cpu. I added the second pump on the left thinking it might help me purge air but not a lot of help.
> I have tilted/shook/changed rpm up and down on the pumps, can't hear any gurgling in the rads when I tilt so I'm not sure if the air is out or not, or the Raystorm is not operating up to snuff.
> The fill cap is on loosely so as to let any air escape.
> I'm out of ideas.
> This rig has an EX240 rad/RX360 rad and now the two MCP655 pumps.
> 
> I'm thinking of putting my old Rasa cpu block on to see if there's any change in cpu temps?


I might be wrong but your pump on the right looks like its plumed wrong.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I might be wrong but your pump on the right looks like its plumed wrong.


Its correct. There is an outlet on the face of the pump top.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> you added a gpu into the loop its gonna be hotter?


It's always had a gpu in the loop. But I would expect better much better cpu temps than I have.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Its correct. There is an outlet on the face of the pump top.


Right.

The loop is 100% operational, like I said I added the second pump trying to purge air, if an air pocket is the problem. I don't know what else to do but change blocks. But then only if the temps are waaaay better would I actually know anything.
I did have the Raystorm apart but I was already getting the same temps. I guess it's possible I could have put the Raystorm back together wrong, but I didn't take any pics so I'm not 100% sure.


----------



## broken pixel

The Raystorm inlet is on right, you have it marked in your diagram as outlet. I am sure that matters or they would not put a label on the block. Unless the all copper block is different form the normal ray? I just built a Dual pump loop with dual D5 top about 4 hours ago. My temps with a 3930k / Raystorm @ 4.6GHz 1.35v volt meter reading with avg temps on all six cores is 61C loaded.



How are you running your pumps? In parallel or series? Series is the way to go.
From your photo it looks like you are running parallel, its hard to tell from the photo.
I also noticed the block is upside down. I could be wrong, been up all day, night & still awake.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Nice setup, btw I have the same HOTAS and pedals, you must be a flight sim fan as well.


Thanks! She is up and running! I love flight sims. Helps me cope with not being able to fly actual airplanes since a damn one filthy two is over 120 an hr these days to rent. I just hope they fix IL2 Cliffs of Dover soon. DSC P51 beta is nice http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/index.php?scr=product&ProductId=18&end_pos=136&lang=en


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> you added a gpu into the loop its gonna be hotter?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> The Raystorm inlet is on right, you have it marked in your diagram as outlet. I am sure that matters or they would not put a label on the block. Unless the all copper block is different form the normal ray? I just built a Dual pump loop with dual D5 top about 4 hours ago. My temps with a 3930k / Raystorm @ 4.6GHz 1.35v volt meter reading with avg temps on all six cores is 61C loaded.
> 
> How are you running your pumps? In parallel or series? Series is the way to go.
> From your photo it looks like you are running parallel, its hard to tell from the photo.
> I also noticed the block is upside down. I could be wrong, been up all day, night & still awake.


Yes, the block is upside down but plumbed correctly. Pumps are running serially. Get some sleep.


----------



## Shiikamaru

Work in progress. No gpu, Kingston value rams, incoming glass panel, redoing 24pin atx sleeves and sata sleeves. Thats a 17inch monitor. Hope to upgrade to a 27inch in the near future. Caselabs STH10 is elevated around 5mm by 3M Bumpon.



Mayhem X1 Concentrated with distilled.

Cooling parts are Apogee HD, Bitspower Multi Z, Swiftech MCP35x2 on heatsink, Alphacool Monsta 480 with 8 AP15 and Monsoon compressions.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Using dual pumps is causing quite a bit of bubbles to in appear and stay in my resevoir. I know air is constantly going through my loop because I can hear it and see the bubbles running through the pumps. Any way to stop this?


What i did with mine was disconnect one pump till the loop is bled then reconnect when its nearly there.
I also use a syringe of distilled in the res to flush the bubbles to the top of the res.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'll be getting ~$150 soon. Any upgrade ideas for my build?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> MOAR RAD!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Haha, I would but I already have dual 420 radiators cooling just a CPU and GPU loop.


MOAR RAD!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## phillyd

Got my FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250ml res w/black helix for the SwitchBox. check it out in my sig.


----------



## SenorRed

Got new stuff in. Coolgate CG360 phat ass rad, swiftech 240, ek 1/2id 5/8od compression fittings, XSPC inbay res top for MCP-655, and of course, white tubing.



There is always something to do!


----------



## protzman

true or false: koolance compression fittings work well?


----------



## simonfredette

im stuck in little rock arkansas for some more useless training ( silly military and their training! ) and its really hot .. point is my res is losing water considerably faster , could this be the cause , ive never really had to add water before and ive been thoroughly checking for leaks ? its a dual bay res/pump combo so its not a whole lot of res and in about a week its gone down half an inch , my other guess would be that moving around so much has bled it properly and its just the airspace I had in bubbles .. what do you think?


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I actually didn't benefit much from an SSD, I sold the one I used to use actually. The only benefit for me is boot-up times which aren't bad as it is and I rarely reboot.
> Edit: Which fan is better, COUGAR CF-V14HB or Akasa Apache Black?


The Akasa Apache would be my choice, although I would pick the Bgears Blasters over them. BTW if those NZXT fans are weighing you down, feel free to send em my way, I like to help out like that


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> true or false: koolance compression fittings work well?


True, I had six compression fittings in my old rig and they worked like a charm, looked pretty good too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Just finished my new loop with Dual head top, a 120 rad + 240 rad and the Raystorm block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


What is that frosted acrylic block, is that used for combining the flow if both pumps/ directing flow to multiple sources? It doesn't look like a standard Reservoir.









~Ceadder


----------



## protzman

thanks nerd, i was going to do qdc's all around but then after buying 8 realized that it was a bigger task than i had anticipated, so naturally i want to stick with the same brand compression fittins so the color remains the same (the silver compressions) plus that are like 5 bucks cheaper than bitspower fittings









thanks tho good to know!


----------



## conntick

Does anyone know of a specific brand of compression fittings one should avoid?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Does anyone know of a specific brand of compression fittings one should avoid?


XSPC


----------



## protzman

to avoid not really tbh tho. when i was going into my build and i made the decision to water cool was the same time monsoon fittings hit the market, and i scooped up 2 packs of matte white and when i got the i was like dannnnnnnng these are nice. Then i began testing to make sure each water cooling component worked, and mostly because i was stoked to use water cooling and wanted to play with my parts. Using the tool that they provide and even screwing the fittings into certain blocks the paint on those things chipped so so easy and that makes me thing they are cheap. maybe the anodized ones are a different story since there is no paint to chip but these i was dissatisfied with. Luckily before i used both packs i sold one, and held onto one to test with, glad i didn't waste all of my money


----------



## mandrix

Pulled the Raystorm and checked it, had a small piece of trash in the inlet, not enough to do anything, and what looked like a small hair or something on the plate, so I cleaned it all up and reinstalled with MX2 instead of MX4 just for something different .
I filled the loop and tilted the Switch over all the way until the RX360 quit gurgling air but no go, no change in temps from before. The gpu temp is fine, I guess that's something but it was OK all along anyway. 89*c is just too high for the amount of cooling in this case with a x45 OC. My other rig only has a RX240 and a Raystorm and it never touches 80 cooling just the cpu.
I don't know what to do now but change the block and see what happens. All I got is the Rasa from a RX240 kit for a spare but WTH.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> im stuck in little rock arkansas for some more useless training ( silly military and their training! ) and its really hot .. point is my res is losing water considerably faster , could this be the cause , ive never really had to add water before and ive been thoroughly checking for leaks ? its a dual bay res/pump combo so its not a whole lot of res and in about a week its gone down half an inch , my other guess would be that moving around so much has bled it properly and its just the airspace I had in bubbles .. what do you think?


It could be from an air pocket being filled in...could also be some evaporation...could also be a little of both


----------



## Shoggy

Old but gold


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> It could be from an air pocket being filled in...could also be some evaporation...could also be a little of both


I think it is just air bubbles, evaporation *can not* happen in a closed circuit.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Old but gold


that pic is broken...

EDIT or it was... to me...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> It could be from an air pocket being filled in...could also be some evaporation...could also be a little of both
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is just air bubbles, evaporation *can not* happen in a closed circuit.
Click to expand...

there could be an opening, like maybe at the top of his res.


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I think it is just air bubbles, evaporation *can not* happen in a closed circuit.


I believe water can evaporate slowly through the tubing.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I think it is just air bubbles, evaporation *can not* happen in a closed circuit.


water can evaporate through the lines, not super fast mind you, but it can happen

NINJA'D!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Old but gold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the look of that cooler!


----------



## jagz

Quick Q guys, I want to expand my CPU loop to the GPU's, What size Swiftech Dual SLI/CrossFire Bridge - 1.6" PCI Spacing do I need for this ASRock Extreme3 Gen3 board?










1.6" or 2.4" ? Thanks.


----------



## fa5terba11

Quote:


> true or false: koolance compression fittings work well?


True. I am using them extensively in my build. Check out my build log.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Thanks! She is up and running! I love flight sims. Helps me cope with not being able to fly actual airplanes since a damn one filthy two is over 120 an hr these days to rent. I just hope they fix IL2 Cliffs of Dover soon. DSC P51 beta is nice http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/index.php?scr=product&ProductId=18&end_pos=136&lang=en


Thx for the link Pixel, will give it a go, I had 352 hours up in the 109 in COD before I gave up in frustration, hopefully one day it will be the replacement for IL2 we were all hoping for. We are sorta on topic as the Daimler-Benz DB 601 was liquid cooled.


----------



## Fuganater

My rad stand is done!

Final Specs:
3x Swiftech MCR320 (360mm) Radiator
18x Yate Loon High Speed Fans
Swiftech DDC 355
EK-Multioption 150 Reservoir
Koolance VL3N Quick Disconnects

Final Weight with water: 20 lbs



Link to the worklog: http://www.overclock.net/t/1224813/diy-radiator-stand


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> How is your RES set-up (on the inside)


Ive got the bitspower 250 with the anti cyclone nozzle and then the elevated return tube installed as well. The issue isnt air trapped in the loop. Ive dealt with that. Its that the water is coming from the return tube so hard that its literally splashing around in the reservoir creating bubbles which then get sucked back up and shot through the loop. Like I said it looks great but I need to find a way to keep the bubbles from getting sucked back through the loop.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I think it is just air bubbles, evaporation *can not* happen in a closed circuit.


hmmmm? i agree that it is probally just air bubbles but evaporation happens
in a closed loop as there is still space left in the res. for the displacement of the liquid.
The surface area of the liquid evaps. which forms condensation inside the res.
i always have condensation in my res and it's closed loop. how can you have condensation
in the res. while at the same time having no evap. happening in that closed loop?
now _*escaping*_ water vapour is a whole entire different thing.
also (now i know this isn't the case but still) there is the WVTR of all the materials
used in the loop. (WVTR = water vapour transmission rate).
i am actually doing astudy for my work which deals with the WVTR of
different plastics. though this would not explain him needing to fill loop often.
so i'm saying air bubbles being filled, top of res might have place open for
vapour to escape or the dredded leak (i just fixed one a little while ago.not fun).


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> My rad stand is done!
> Final Specs:
> 3x Swiftech MCR320 (360mm) Radiator
> 18x Yate Loon High Speed Fans
> Swiftech DDC 355
> EK-Multioption 150 Reservoir
> Koolance VL3N Quick Disconnects
> Final Weight with water: 20 lbs
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to the worklog: http://www.overclock.net/t/1224813/diy-radiator-stand


I'm not extremely jealous or anything...


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> My rad stand is done!
> Final Specs:
> 3x Swiftech MCR320 (360mm) Radiator
> 18x Yate Loon High Speed Fans
> Swiftech DDC 355
> EK-Multioption 150 Reservoir
> Koolance VL3N Quick Disconnects
> Final Weight with water: 20 lbs
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to the worklog: http://www.overclock.net/t/1224813/diy-radiator-stand


I think your rad weighs more than my entire system


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Ive got the bitspower 250 with the anti cyclone nozzle and then the elevated return tube installed as well. The issue isnt air trapped in the loop. Ive dealt with that. Its that the water is coming from the return tube so hard that its literally splashing around in the reservoir creating bubbles which then get sucked back up and shot through the loop. Like I said it looks great but I need to find a way to keep the bubbles from getting sucked back through the loop.


I runs 2 MCP655 pumps with the Bits D5 Top and notice my res is calm a flowing. At first I was thinking the damn loop is not flowing but all the action happens in the pump top.

Maybe you can try filling your res to max capacity or add another one or another rad.

Sidewinder has the D5 tops on sale for 89.00, and theres a code online for free shipping. They also save space and looks clean.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quick Q guys, I want to expand my CPU loop to the GPU's, What size Swiftech Dual SLI/CrossFire Bridge - 1.6" PCI Spacing do I need for this ASRock Extreme3 Gen3 board?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.6" or 2.4" ? Thanks.


I use these and they very well http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sliandcr1vid.html .


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> I use these and they very well http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sliandcr1vid.html .


Look nice but I will be using Universal Blocks and I guess using tube? from the Raystorm GPU blocks to the Swiftech thingy. Speaking of which, the Raystorm Universal GPU Block says not compatible with 1/2" Compression fittings, I was going to use Monsoon 7/16" compressions

Wonder if it's just to wide to be able to fit inbetween the Raystorm GPU Block?


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> I runs 2 MCP655 pumps with the Bits D5 Top and notice my res is calm a flowing. At first I was thinking the damn loop is not flowing but all the action happens in the pump top.
> Maybe you can try filling your res to max capacity or add another one or another rad.
> Sidewinder has the D5 tops on sale for 89.00, and theres a code online for free shipping. They also save space and looks clean.


I have the xspc dual top for them. And my res is not filled to the top so ill try that.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> XSPC


Really? I have heard the exact opposite from many different people; that they are extremely strong-clamping, that they last forever, are universally compatible, and so forth... Never once have I heard of them failing or having any other problems...

I am very interested, as I am about to order 6-10 of them...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> XSPC
> 
> 
> 
> Really? I have heard the exact opposite from many different people; that they are extremely strong-clamping, that they last forever, are universally compatible, and so forth... Never once have I heard of them failing or having any other problems...
> 
> I am very interested, as I am about to order 6-10 of them...
Click to expand...

I have heard no reasoning behind it, just from one guy that he thought they were cheap. if you can cough up the cost, get monsoons, they are fantastic. and sexy.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Bitspower for me all the way!


----------



## idaWHALE

I've been reading this thread for almost 1.5 years and just occasionally chime in. I really wanted to do my first water cooling loop








too bad ill be living in the dorms again so one of those corsair closed loops will have to do (upkeep and risk of someone %[email protected]# it up). ill just over-volt the pump or something haha
extremely jealous and hope to keep seeing the quality builds


----------



## lowfat

Think I have an obsession w/ DDCs?


















Was able to transplant a PCB today. Thought it was beyond my skill but I guess not. Worked perfectly.

































I also found out that my Koolance PMP-400s have the same PCB as the MCP35X. Pretty sure I should be able to get PWM control out of it too.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Think I have an obsession w/ DDCs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was able to transplant a PCB today. Thought it was beyond my skill but I guess not. Worked perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also found out that my Koolance PMP-400s have the same PCB as the MCP35X. Pretty sure I should be able to get PWM control out of it too.


I have no idea what you did there...


----------



## superericla

The test bench from Dwood is ready for painting...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quick Pics of the Quad Damage, leak testing for now, will be trying the monster tomorrow.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I have heard no reasoning behind it, just from one guy that he thought they were cheap. *if you can cough up the cost, get monsoons, they are fantastic. and sexy.*


Monsoons are the cheapest compression fittings in AUS if you buy a 6 pack


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Monsoons are the cheapest compression fittings in AUS if you buy a 6 pack


hes in the US


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> hes in the US


I was just

letting you know.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE*
> 
> I've been reading this thread for almost 1.5 years and just occasionally chime in. I really wanted to do my first water cooling loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> too bad ill be living in the dorms again so one of those corsair closed loops will have to do (upkeep and risk of someone %[email protected]# it up). ill just over-volt the pump or something haha
> extremely jealous and hope to keep seeing the quality builds


For reference, if you don't use dyes, you can fill, bleed, and use your nuke prior to going to school, and clean it when you get home in the summer. I ran my last loop for 8-9 months and the water was still clean.

As to someone messing it up... what the hell would someone be doing INSIDE your case that they'd be able to mess it up?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Monsoons are the cheapest compression fittings in AUS if you buy a 6 pack
> 
> 
> 
> hes in the US
Click to expand...

Monsoons are more or less one of the cheapest if you get them via the 6 pack in the US as well.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

@ karlitos: what sort of lights did you use?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Monsoons are more or less one of the cheapest if you get them via the 6 pack in the US as well.


$18 for 6 XSPC
$38 for 6 monsoon...


----------



## u3b3rg33k

@idaWHALE, People don't often mess with the insides of other people's PCs - and they could just as easily put a pencil through your PSU fan...


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> For reference, if you don't use dyes, you can fill, bleed, and use your nuke prior to going to school, and clean it when you get home in the summer. I ran my last loop for 8-9 months and the water was still clean.
> As to someone messing it up... what the hell would someone be doing INSIDE your case that they'd be able to mess it up?


You could also use non-conductive liquid cooling fluid that some companies have out. I've been using them for years without any issue (currently using Primochill ICE)


----------



## phillyd

they eventually become contaminated via corrosion of the materials in the loop and are somewhat conductive


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> You could also use non-conductive liquid cooling fluid that some companies have out. I've been using them for years without any issue (currently using Primochill ICE)


All those so called non conductive coolants become conductive as soon as the water ionizes, which is pretty much immediately after it enters the loop.

A couple of awesome videos Petra (Petras Tech Shop) did a few years back.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Not even going to mention how much I spent on Bitspower fittings...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Think I have an obsession w/ DDCs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was able to transplant a PCB today. Thought it was beyond my skill but I guess not. Worked perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also found out that my Koolance PMP-400s have the same PCB as the MCP35X. Pretty sure I should be able to get PWM control out of it too.


I saw this yesterday. It says D5 but the pictures show DDC. Could you imagine the flow with four in series
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_658&products_id=34508


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I saw this yesterday. It says D5 but the pictures show DDC. Could you imagine the flow with four in series
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_658&products_id=34508




That is just insane. You'd be killing pumps left right and center unless you had an extremely restrictive loop. I'd still love to see someone use one though.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Monsoons are more or less one of the cheapest if you get them via the 6 pack in the US as well.
> 
> 
> 
> $18 for 6 XSPC
> $38 for 6 monsoon...
Click to expand...

$24 for 6 XSPC compression fittings, but I still see your point.

When you put aesthetics side by side with the XSPC I can justify $12 difference. The barbs I'm using now when I purchased them were more expensive than Monsoon compressions...

Danger Den Fatboys used to be expensive, lol


----------



## nleksan

I have Monsoon comps







I also have various Bitspower Rotary compression and adapters, but I need more compression fittings so I was planning on going with XSPC as they are low profile and, at least I thought, had a good reputation. I am changing all my O-rings to Monsoon UV White.

Unfortunately, I goofed when I got the fittings I have now as the Bitspower are matte black and the Monsoon are black chrome. I just hope that the mismatched colors don't look too bad.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> $24 for 6 XSPC compression fittings, but I still see your point.
> When you put aesthetics side by side with the XSPC I can justify $12 difference. The barbs I'm using now when I purchased them were more expensive than Monsoon compressions...
> Danger Den Fatboys used to be expensive, lol


oops thought they were $2.99, not $3.99
yeah the monsoon 6-packs are a great deal.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> $24 for 6 XSPC compression fittings, but I still see your point.
> When you put aesthetics side by side with the XSPC I can justify $12 difference. The barbs I'm using now when I purchased them were more expensive than Monsoon compressions...
> Danger Den Fatboys used to be expensive, lol
> 
> 
> 
> oops thought they were $2.99, not $3.99
> yeah the monsoon 6-packs are a great deal.
Click to expand...

Sure are! Love the builds by the way, keep up the good work


----------



## phillyd

thanks, feedback is much appreciated


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> $18 for 6 XSPC
> $38 for 6 monsoon...


Waaaaaaa its only $36 in Australia.


----------



## tuffarts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Old but gold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Still got ant of these laying around Shoggy ?
If so could you PM me


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffarts*
> 
> Still got ant of these laying around Shoggy ?
> If so could you PM me


No, sold out since many years


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Really? I have heard the exact opposite from many different people; that they are extremely strong-clamping, that they last forever, are universally compatible, and so forth... Never once have I heard of them failing or having any other problems...
> I am very interested, as I am about to order 6-10 of them...


I have around 10-12 comp fittintgs (1/2 ID 3/4OD) from XSPC and I don't have any problem.They are low profile,good paint and build quality etc.
The only negative Is that they are a bit thicker compared to monsoon for example
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> $24 for 6 XSPC compression fittings, but I still see your point.
> When you put aesthetics side by side with the XSPC I can justify $12 difference. The barbs I'm using now when I purchased them were more expensive than Monsoon compressions...
> Danger Den Fatboys used to be expensive, lol


Aesthetics are subjective,I personally don't like the monsoon fittings at all.Also,I like the bitspower fittings alot but I can't really justify their price...


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, sold out since many years


Any of what









Out of interest has aquasuite (for the AC AQ5) been release yet or is it still in the beta stage and while somewhat on the subject is there a aquacomputers thread somewhere on OCN?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Ive got the bitspower 250 with the anti cyclone nozzle and then the elevated return tube installed as well. The issue isnt air trapped in the loop. Ive dealt with that. Its that the water is coming from the return tube so hard that its literally splashing around in the reservoir creating bubbles which then get sucked back up and shot through the loop. Like I said it looks great but I need to find a way to keep the bubbles from getting sucked back through the loop.


I have the same thing going on with my FrozenQ res. Since the fill port is right next to the inlet I'm wondering if I'm actually pulling air through the fill tube. I've left the fill port partially open hoping to bleed air but now wondering if it's actually pulling air back in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not even going to mention how much I spent on Bitspower fittings...


Yeah, I haven't added mine up but it's a fair amount of money. They're purdy though. I've got 2 5 way rotaries I'm not even using right now, that's almost half a bill right there....







Were handy at the time, though.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> Any of what
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of interest has aquasuite (for the AC AQ5) been release yet or is it still in the beta stage and while somewhat on the subject is there a aquacomputers thread somewhere on OCN?


I meant the cuplex EVO cooler.

At the moment we are at Beta 15







It will also stay beta as long as not all features from our to-do-list have been integrated. No idea when you took a look at the software a last time. A LOT of things have been changed and added there over the last months.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not even going to mention how much I spent on Bitspower fittings...


Don't worry, already spent $40 on Monsoons, going to spend $40 more. (Don't know if Monsoon's can attach to the Raystorm GPU block? Says not compatible with 1/2 Compressions, mine are 7/16th)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Waaaaaaa its only $36 in Australia.


Well you can get them for $34 or $35 here but shippings going to be another 6 bucks easily.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I meant the cuplex EVO cooler.
> At the moment we are at Beta 15
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will also stay beta as long as not all features from our to-do-list have been integrated. No idea when you took a look at the software a last time. A LOT of things have been changed and added there over the last months.


Nice I'll check out the latest Beta on the weekend. The old Beta that i was using (beta 13) worked great and seemed pretty polished to me can't wait to see the new revision!


----------



## Shoggy

In this case wait until tomorrow. As far as I know our programmer will upload a newer version which fixes some small bugs in the current version.


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys I'm doing a new build in a Switch 810 and am using a Swiftech 360 rad up top and a 120 in the front for my cooling loop. I only have my cpu on it at the moment. I have one Universal Block for my GPU at the moment which I might end up throwing in anyways until I can get the second one. My question is in regards to my fans. I started off using 3 Aerocool Shark fans on the 360 and am using the stock NZXT 140's up front so the top one is cooling the 120 rad. Now I changed out the 3 top fans for some Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 RPM high static pressure fans for the 360. I know alot of people complained about the noise on them but I have them running through a NZXT Sentry Mix controller and it don't have any buzzing from and also are very quiet when I turn them down so it doesn't bother me to have to turn them up when I need the extra cooling. I was wondering would it be worth it to change out all my other fans (2 front 140mm and 1 rear exaust 140mm) for some more of the same? Like I said the noise doesn't bother since I can turn them down when needed. But I have 1 GPU block right now and am going to add another one to complete the loop. I might even change out the 120 for a 240 I have if the temps go up too much once the GPU's are added. Oh in case anyone wants to know my cooling loop consists of the following.

Switech 360 and 120 rads
XSPC Raystorm Intel CPU Block on a 2500k OC'ed to 4.8 GHZ 24/7 at 1.3 volts
Jingway Tech DP600P Pump
Danger Den RAD-Reservoir
PrimoChill 3/8"i.d. x 5/8"o.d. White Tubing
Monsoon Compression Fittings in Red and Blue
NZXT Sentry Mix Fan controller
Distilled Water for coolant
1 Universal GPU block on a XFX reference 6870 will be getting second block hopefully soon


----------



## Fonne

Back in the ATI 9800 Pro and Socket 478 time, a user on a danish forum made his one watercooling, and dont think they have ever been showed outside Denmark - MANY year ago and he is not producing any more, but still think they are worth showting -



The block has been in my closet MANY years, and when he stopped production I got the leftovers of this stock ...



Lovely Socket 478 block







And some spare parts











Some really nice block he made to the danish watercooling community







- Hope you like to see something different


----------



## jagz

What size 45 degree fittings do I need for 7/16" Tubing & 7/16" Compressions? 13/10mm, 16/13mm, 19/10mm? Thanks

Very cool Fonne, Some of those look soooo primative lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Back in the ATI 9800 Pro and Socket 478 time, a user on a danish forum made his one watercooling, and dont think they have ever been showed outside Denmark - MANY year ago and he is not producing any more, but still think they are worth showting -
> 
> 
> 
> The block has been in my closet MANY years, and when he stopped production I got the leftovers of this stock ...
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely Socket 478 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some spare parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some really nice block he made to the danish watercooling community
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Hope you like to see something different






Haha. I wasn't water cooling back then but seeing these pics takes me back to when I thought people were nuts putting water and electricity in the same confined spaces.









Now I'm water cooling too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Codycjd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> What size 45 degree fittings do I need for 7/16" Tubing & 7/16" Compressions? 13/10mm, 16/13mm, 19/10mm? Thanks
> Very cool Fonne, Some of those look soooo primative lol


Anyone correct me if I'm wrong, but..

You can use just normal G1/4 45 degree connectors then screw in your compression fittings into those. It'll give you the bend you need.

Something like this:


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codycjd*
> 
> Anyone correct me if I'm wrong, but..
> You can use just normal G1/4 45 degree connectors then screw in your compression fittings into those. It'll give you the bend you need.
> Something like this:


Thanks, but what constitutes normal? Also, What's the mm dimensions then, the length or something? and not the ID/OD?


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Thanks, but what constitutes normal? Also, What's the mm dimensions then, the length or something? and not the ID/OD?


I suppose in this context normal means G1/4. So any angled fitting with G1/4 male on one end and G1/4 female on the other would allow you to use any fitting you like in the female side, barb, compression, etc.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Thanks, but what constitutes normal? Also, What's the mm dimensions then, the length or something? and not the ID/OD?
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose in this context normal means G1/4. So any angled fitting with G1/4 male on one end and G1/4 female on the other would allow you to use any fitting you like in the female side, barb, compression, etc.
Click to expand...

This.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Very cool Fonne, Some of those look soooo primative lol


They are simple, but even today they perform decent, on smaller graphic ... Here they are mounted on AMD 6870





And this 3. Place on Hwbot is using them









http://hwbot.org/submission/2209603_martin.v.r_unigine_heaven___xtreme_preset_dx11_2x_radeon_hd_6870_2012.6_dx11_marks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Haha. I wasn't water cooling back then but seeing these pics takes me back to when I thought people were nuts putting water and electricity in the same confined spaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm water cooling too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was nuts back then, and still is


----------



## mandrix

Figured out the heat problem with my new machine. Wasn't anything in the water cooling, was the cpu. I swapped 3770K's from my other machine and it is running great temps at x45 OC. I got a really bad chip this go round, I guess. Sucks I can't send it back , I already lapped it. I mean I don't send things back just 'cause I don't like them, but this turkey gets too hot to overclock much.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Figured out the heat problem with my new machine. Wasn't anything in the water cooling, was the cpu. I swapped 3770K's from my other machine and it is running great temps at x45 OC. I got a really bad chip this go round, I guess. Sucks I can't send it back , I already lapped it. I mean I don't send things back just 'cause I don't like them, but this turkey gets too hot to overclock much.


try finding a better tim or something , not much more you can do , its lapped already and in my limited experience changing water blocks doesnt make a huge difference , sucks though but you could always try to sell it and buy another one , take the loss.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> I suppose in this context normal means G1/4. So any angled fitting with G1/4 male on one end and G1/4 female on the other would allow you to use any fitting you like in the female side, barb, compression, etc.


Alright cool, Are the mm dimensions the exterior size or something I suppose?

Anyway, I'm strongly considering an external loop. Something like Fuganater did, should I just abolish my bay res (I wont need loop to extend all the way to the bay's if I do) and just get a couple tube res and pumps on the external setup?


----------



## Neo Zuko

This is my loop plan:



Subject to change.

I want to bend some nickle plated copper pipes.

I will be using some Aqua Computer gear. The Aqua Computer MSI 680 Lightning Blocks, the AquaTube/AquaBay, and the Aquaros 5 Fan Controller.

Also, anyone want to help me pick between the Apogee HD and the Raystorm Copper?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> This is my loop plan:
> 
> 
> 
> Subject to change.
> 
> I want to bend some nickle plated copper pipes.


that is one heck of a setup. cant wait to see it!


----------



## simonfredette

you know what I havnt seen yet , someone using the frozen Q dual bay res , it would look kinda cool . I want a normal big one mostly because ill use it as the main source of lighting in my case but the dual bay must look cool in the front of your case


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> you know what I havnt seen yet , someone using the frozen Q dual bay res , it would look kinda cool . I want a normal big one mostly because ill use it as the main source of lighting in my case but the dual bay must look cool in the front of your case


Yeah I considered running a loop with just a pump and a tube res with green aurora coolant and then my normal loop with a bay res and mayhem's pastel coolant.


----------



## kzim9

Still have to tidy the sleeving more.


----------



## Neo Zuko

The AquaTube/AquaBay is pretty cool looking, but Swiftech's MCP35X2 Dual Bay Res is coming this week too - it will have built in temp sensor, run 0, 1, or 2 MCP35X Pumps, if you allow more space below it can still take the MCP35X2 Heatsink, ETC, lots of options, I think I may have to try that one. The only possible issue is that it may suffer from lack of decoupling, but I think Swiftech is smarter than that. I expect a nice product.


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> Still have to tidy the sleeving more.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't really like this case but your build looks pretty cool


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Subject to change.
> I want to bend some nickle plated copper pipes.
> I will be using some Aqua Computer gear. The Aqua Computer MSI 680 Lightning Blocks, the AquaTube/AquaBay, and the Aquaros 5 Fan Controller.
> Also, anyone want to help me pick between the Apogee HD and the Raystorm Copper?


I'm not sure how good a copper Raystorm would look with nickel-plated piping, so I'd have to go with the Apogee HD.


----------



## Shiikamaru

Hello guys. Any idea what fan controller i can use to control 16 gentle typhoons? Im using a STH10 and currently 8 of my AP15 are running from a modmytoys 6pin 8way power distribution PCB. 1 quad rad at top and 1 at bottom. The casing is big so i would like to know what are the options I have to run this fans in a neat manner.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> Hello guys. Any idea what fan controller i can use to control 16 gentle typhoons? Im using a STH10 and currently 8 of my AP15 are running from a modmytoys 6pin 8way power distribution PCB. 1 quad rad at top and 1 at bottom. The casing is big so i would like to know what are the options I have to run this fans in a neat manner.


There are a few multi-channel controllers that are 50W/channel. Sentry Mix and FC9 are two. the mix has 6 channels and the FC9 has 4


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> try finding a better tim or something , not much more you can do , its lapped already and in my limited experience changing water blocks doesnt make a huge difference , sucks though but you could always try to sell it and buy another one , take the loss.


True. I'll just keep it in my other rig, I am disappointed it turned out to be such a dog though. I have used both MX2 & MX4, I'm thinking TIM isn't going to help any.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> Hello guys. Any idea what fan controller i can use to control 16 gentle typhoons? Im using a STH10 and currently 8 of my AP15 are running from a modmytoys 6pin 8way power distribution PCB. 1 quad rad at top and 1 at bottom. The casing is big so i would like to know what are the options I have to run this fans in a neat manner.


I'm actually using two controllers, an FC8 and a FC9. Like was said the FC9 only has 4 channels but with rating of 50w per you can hang a bunch of fans on it. I had 14 fans at one time on mine in the past. Right now I'm using the FC9 with a pump on two channels and 3 high speed Yate Loons on each of the other channels.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> Hello guys. Any idea what fan controller i can use to control 16 gentle typhoons? Im using a STH10 and currently 8 of my AP15 are running from a modmytoys 6pin 8way power distribution PCB. 1 quad rad at top and 1 at bottom. The casing is big so i would like to know what are the options I have to run this fans in a neat manner.


I would go for a AquaComputer AQ5 if you want something that will give you complete control over your fans and the capacity to program setting. I personnel run 12 fans and a pump (ddc-1) of each of mine with automated setting modes according to air water and cpu temps. There just neat look good and easy to use otherwise if your looking for some basic I think Zalman make some that are fine...... But I would opt for the AQ5 any day! Nice case BTW


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> Still have to tidy the sleeving more.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not a big fan of external rads. But your rig looks pretty clean. Nice job!


----------



## PCModderMike

I think a lot of people aren't big fans of external rads....myself included. But when done right, such as you did @kzim9, it works well, and looks good. I did the same setup with my 600T, and it worked great for me. So good job


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I'm not sure how good a copper Raystorm would look with nickel-plated piping, so I'd have to go with the Apogee HD.


Did not even think of this, thanks. I was going for the Apogee HD or Apogee Drive 2 for other reasons, but now I feel much better with those all black choices.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> Hello guys. Any idea what fan controller i can use to control 16 gentle typhoons? Im using a STH10 and currently 8 of my AP15 are running from a modmytoys 6pin 8way power distribution PCB. 1 quad rad at top and 1 at bottom. The casing is big so i would like to know what are the options I have to run this fans in a neat manner.


I would suggest staying away from the Sentry Mix. I am on replacement #2 (waiting to get notification that replacement #2 was shipped to me, NZXT support is pretty bad with exception of the hardware reps here. They are great.) because it the last 2 made a buzzing noise that disappeared when the fan controller was unplugged from the psu. I also tested the last replacement with the new Corsair SP120s and the fans made a clicking noise.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> And some spare parts


Is that a res on the left?


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Is that a res on the left?


Anything that is milled metal = sexy in my book.


----------



## taotree

Here's my entry:



Finished build thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1289895/water-cool-build-complete


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taotree*
> 
> Here's my entry:
> 
> Finished build thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1289895/water-cool-build-complete


Why is the rad so far away from the case?


----------



## phillyd

those stilts long enough? lol


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taotree*
> 
> Here's my entry:
> 
> Finished build thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1289895/water-cool-build-complete


Hey it's external rad day....that is really far from the case though







Maybe worried about heat coming off the rad and getting into the case?


----------



## Neo Zuko

My revised my loop plan (I stopped hosting the old pic):



I like this loop plan better. I have two spare 5.25" bays left, plus the rad placement and rad heat venting is better thought out. This is using the same amount of rads too, just split up differently. I have one 120/SR-1 just after the CPU, one 120/SR-1 just after the GPUs, then the Maelstrom Res/MCP35X2 Pump, then into the basement for the 480/SR-1 and 240/SR-1, feeding back to the CPU.

Hopefully Swiftech thought about pump vibrations and noise when they designed the new Maelstrom Res with the MCP35X2 installed - which is coming out this week. The Res and Pump can be separated if need be, however if it does not bother me I might as well leave it together. Of particular note is the built in temp display feature!! Note the Maelstrom takes up only two bays, but the MCP35X2 Heatsink protrudes into a third bay, which is perfect for sharing space with a small fan controller (they never really full up the whole bay). This way I don't waste a bay.

I have something special planned for the last two bays, it has something to do with water and the case art I have planned, but it will not be part of the loop per say.

Haha, I did this drawing in MS W8 Paint







I really miss Adobe Illustrator.

Should I go with the Apogee HD or the Apogee Drive 2? Already getting the MCP35X2. If I do the Apogee Drive 2, I could place the Micro Res 2 out of sight just above the CPU in the upper corner.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Is that a res on the left?


Yeah, its a res







.... He really made some nice stuff


----------



## taotree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hey it's external rad day....that is really far from the case though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe worried about heat coming off the rad and getting into the case?


Opposite. Fans are pushing air across rad away from case. I made the supports by hand and didn't really care exactly how far away it was. But I did want it a little distance away to get less hotter case air into it and more cooler room air.

I'm thinking of even putting a little deflector or something to direct case air up and away from the rad.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Well, I need to rethink my loop over the weekend due to some concerns. So many ways to go. Decided that the Apogee HD is the way to go, too many res to pump concerns if I get the Apogee Drive 2.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Yeah, its a res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... He really made some nice stuff


Too bad its one of a kind


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Too bad its one of a kind


Yeah, he only made this one, but pretty easy to again - Got it right here beside me


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Yeah, he only made this one, but pretty easy to again - Got it right here beside me


The O-rings on the fittings won't work with this reservoir right?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> My revised my loop plan (I stopped hosting the old pic):
> 
> I like this loop plan better. I have two spare 5.25" bays left, plus the rad placement and rad heat venting is better thought out. This is using the same amount of rads too, just split up differently. I have one 120/SR-1 just after the CPU, one 120/SR-1 just after the GPUs, then the Maelstrom Res/MCP35X2 Pump, then into the basement for the 480/SR-1 and 240/SR-1, feeding back to the CPU.
> Hopefully Swiftech thought about pump vibrations and noise when they designed the new Maelstrom Res with the MCP35X2 installed - which is coming out this week. The Res and Pump can be separated if need be, however if it does not bother me I might as well leave it together. Of particular note is the built in temp display feature!! Note the Maelstrom takes up only two bays, but the MCP35X2 Heatsink protrudes into a third bay, which is perfect for sharing space with a small fan controller (they never really full up the whole bay). This way I don't waste a bay.
> I have something special planned for the last two bays, it has something to do with water and the case art I have planned, but it will not be part of the loop per say.
> Haha, I did this drawing in MS W8 Paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really miss Adobe Illustrator.
> Should I go with the Apogee HD or the Apogee Drive 2? Already getting the MCP35X2. If I do the Apogee Drive 2, I could place the Micro Res 2 out of sight just above the CPU in the upper corner.


You really don't need those 120mm rads to be honest (and placing rads after certain components is unnecessary). The 480mm and 240mm in the bottom will be plenty for your proposed system. I have a TJ11 as well and you can actually fit a 560mm rad opposite of the PSU. It fills in the space better than a 480mm in my opinion...


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> The O-rings on the fittings won't work with this reservoir right?


Dont think any new fittings that got o-rings will work, but this is also some really old school stuff, homemade fittings etc - But back then, its was great


----------



## johnko1

Finally here is my finished rig









All parts gathered








Some thermal compounds








2 silver coils








XSPC Raystorm with fittings attached








These are ek's 45 angles (black nickel) and XSPC's 1/2ID 3/4OD compression fittings.They look really good








Wateblock installed to the motherboard.It seems I forget the last screw
















XSPC ex240 on the top.It fits marginally on cm 690 II advanced








Swiftech MCRES micro revision 2 with a silver coil inside








First tube was connected








The power of blue!!


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Dont think any new fittings that got o-rings will work, but this is also some really old school stuff, homemade fittings etc - But back then, its was great


Watercooling back then was uncharted waters (sorry for the pun) don't think I would of been game enough, having said that it makes w/cing so much more accessible now that companies make fittings etc, and the competition produces some great products, blocks etc

@ Jonko, nice work mate, how are the temps?


----------



## simonfredette

Speaking of temps I dont know what to think about mine , I know temp on CPU's varies between chips and OC's but still , I have a switch 810 case with an i7 960 @4.3 1.408V , 2 x gtx 570 2.5 gb cards also on water and im running an RX 360 in push pull (exhaust) on top and an RX 240 intake on the front with pull only.. While folding my temps 71-76 (CPU) and 45-47 (GPU) ambient being around 23 celcius .. im not particularly dissapointed with the temps but I was expecting lower CPU temps


----------



## phillyd

Got my blocks. check my build, still in the sig


----------



## fa5terba11

Hey watercoolers, I just update my build log...again. I would love to hear your thoughts. http://www.overclock.net/t/1269782/work-log-project-frost-phoenix-nzxt-switch-810-water-cooled/50#post_17857351


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Too bad its one of a kind


There is one from Aquacomputer that is similar


----------



## jagz

XSPC Universal GPU Blocks say not compatible with 1/2" compression fittings, Would this mean my 7/16" Monsoon's wouldn't fit too? I assume it's because the outlets are too close together? This question has been on the top of my head for some time so if anyone know's, thanks.


----------



## lowfat

A couple of pics from my worklog.


----------



## simonfredette

love the close ups , macro?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> love the close ups , macro?


Nah. Just a regular lens on manual.


----------



## simonfredette

sick shots man !


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nah. Just a regular lens on manual.


You braiding the tubing mate? Love to see some more pics.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A couple of pics from my worklog.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Wow


Sleeved tubing is all the rage these days...you said the pics are from your worklog, where? I would like to check out more, very nice


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A couple of pics from my worklog.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes, where is the work log. That is going to be a beast of a rig and a sweet folding rig! More pics please!


----------



## lowfat

http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/lowfats-big-lian-li-16-core-sb-e-gtx680-sli/0_20


----------



## bundymania




----------



## zzorro

Hi mate here my new wc setup







but still under contruction...stay tuned for new update..









the case...


hardwere & loops..


----------



## zzorro

more picture











in the dark...


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A couple of pics from my worklog.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fantastic pics! Can't wait to read your build log!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm assuming that's a gpu block?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> Hi mate...here my new wc setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...but still under contruction...stay tuned for new updete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the hardwere & loops
> 
> 
> 
> in the dark


Looking good so far! Do you have a build log?


----------



## lawndart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> I dig the pink, ever plan on cooling those 570s?


Yeah I plan on getting blocks but right now I am in the planning stages of doing the mod inside and the color is actually a purple and a blue cold cathode light. Thanks for the compliment.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> There is one from Aquacomputer that is similar
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yea, I have the white acetl version of that, the nickel one looks so nice though


----------



## johnko1

I should have uploaded this first instead of the pictures








Nevermind


----------



## rmorse27

This is my Asus Z77 Sabertooth setup.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

I CAN'T SEE ANYTHING IN THAT PHOTO>

MORE RES PLEASE.
(That was meant to be funny)

Neat cable management though


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmorse27*
> 
> This is my Asus Z77 Sabertooth setup.


I can see the photo fairly good, in fact, is the a cardboard PSU cover?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rmorse27*
> 
> This is my Asus Z77 Sabertooth setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can see the photo fairly good, in fact, is the a cardboard PSU cover?
Click to expand...

Certainly looks like it is... but without up close inspection it passes for the real deal. I'd say nice work


----------



## jagz

Guys think it would be feasible to build external rad stand, and duct the heat out the window?


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Guys think it would be feasible to build external rad stand, and duct the heat out the window?


This is Overclocknet....anything is possible!

One of my personal favourites:
http://www.overclock.net/t/671177/12-feet-under-1000-square-feet-of-geothermal-pc-cooling#post_8498917


----------



## Car17

Can I join the club? Please add me!!!


----------



## phillyd

great job on the window dude!
fill out your rig with the rigbuilder and add it into your sig by choosing that rig under show off my stuff when editing your sig.


----------



## tuffarts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Guys think it would be feasible to build external rad stand, and duct the heat out the window?


I do that in summer
in winter I keep the heat

The bit in the middle

And the Rad
I am thinking of getting a second Rad to run a duel loop again,
this Rad is doing the job but I need the CPU to be isolated from the GPU's if I want a high OC.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffarts*
> 
> I do that in summer
> in winter I keep the heat
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bit in the middle
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the Rad
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking of getting a second Rad to run a duel loop again,
> this Rad is doing the job but I need the CPU to be isolated from the GPU's if I want a high OC.


Nice, Yeah I'm planning something like THIS out. You think dual loop is best? (5 Ghz 2700k & 580 SLI here)


----------



## SenorRed

I was told yesterday at Quakecon that I "Have the cleasnit ***** there"

Here is another picture I took today to show a friend:



I really loved the atmosphere and all of the compliments. I hope to be able to go again next year, and stay for the duration. Maybe even throw my hat in the ring for the case contest.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmorse27*
> 
> This is my Asus Z77 Sabertooth setup.


Hey i recognize that build.. Nice to see it finished..


----------



## SenorRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join the club? Please add me!!!


i LOVE your setup.


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SenorRed*
> 
> i LOVE your setup.


Thanks man just finished the testing today and am now playin on it..... Everything that I wanted so far, in about a year upgrade tuning ID/OD and add GPU to the loop and a dual 120mm Rad as well.


----------



## _REAPER_

I know it is not a custom loop, here is an update to my current setup


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I know it is not a custom loop, here is an update to my current setup
> 
> Custom loop or Closed loop, your still on water and getting closer to custom haha.....


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I know it is not a custom loop, here is an update to my current setup
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Might not be a custom loop, but definitely a custom rig. I think it looks great, those cards are awesome


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> 
> Can I join the club? Please add me!!!


Are both of those fans behind the rad running at the same time? I read somewhere that it decreases performance


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> 
> Can I join the club? Please add me!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Are both of those fans behind the rad running at the same time? I read somewhere that it decreases performance
Click to expand...

One could be hollowed out to create a shroud...


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> One could be hollowed out to create a shroud...


Fan Shrouds are amazing!!! And create more air to be pushed through.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> One could be hollowed out to create a shroud...
> 
> 
> 
> Fan Shrouds are amazing!!! And create more air to be pushed through.
Click to expand...

Yes, they sure are. Just wish they didn't add so much size to a radiator haha


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yes, they sure are. Just wish they didn't add so much size to a radiator haha


But When they decrease the fan noise a lot... they are so worth putting on every Rad I will have. And I did notice like a 3-5 degree drop when I installed them, Even on my old H60.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> This is Overclocknet....anything is possible!
> One of my personal favourites:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/671177/12-feet-under-1000-square-feet-of-geothermal-pc-cooling#post_8498917


When I worked out of town I would bring my rig with me. I would set it ontop of the the AC vents in the hotel room and set the AC to the coldest temperature. Since my RADs are mounted on the outside of my case they would stay ice cold. :•)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> But When they decrease the fan noise a lot... they are so worth putting on every Rad I will have. And I did notice like a 3-5 degree drop when I installed them, Even on my old H60.


H60 would benefit more than most radiators since it has a very high FPI and very little space between the fan and the fins stock. Most modern radiators won't see much of a difference though.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/3/


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> H60 would benefit more than most radiators since it has a very high FPI and very little space between the fan and the fins stock. Most modern radiators won't see much of a difference though.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/3/


Right but the fan noise goes down a lot when you have actual space between the fan and the radiator. So its worth a little more silence to me haha.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Making progress on my plan, too many changes to post them twice, I have a thread at hardforum, but I did pick this up:

http://www.swiftech.com/MaelstromBayRes.aspx

The Swiftech Maelstrom Res. I have it coming with the Swiftech MCP35X2 Pump and the matching Swiftech Heatsink.


----------



## jojobits

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> Hi mate here my new wc setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but still under contruction...stay tuned for new update..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the case...
> 
> hardwere & loops..


arrangement of blue and white color theme right choice looks very neat and attractive


----------



## sectionsone

Just update picture my cosmos ii



































My other project Cosmos ii


----------



## sortableturnip

Just added a 120 res that I had lying around to my system. Helped drop load temps 5c.



Yes, it's a bad cell phone pic. Will try to take one with a digital camera tomorrow.


----------



## Balsagna

Boy....

I can't wait till I move from here to my new base in Mississippi. I'm going to be watercooling again.... I had to tear down my old one and sold it all. I have an H100 holding me over for now.

I might end up water cooling these GTX 680's... not sure yet though. Putting them on water won't push the cards anymore clocks because of the voltmods. They don't even hit 60C currently


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Boy....
> 
> I can't wait till I move from here to my new base in Mississippi. I'm going to be watercooling again.... I had to tear down my old one and sold it all. I have an H100 holding me over for now.
> 
> I might end up water cooling these GTX 680's... not sure yet though. Putting them on water won't push the cards anymore clocks because of the voltmods. They don't even hit 60C currently


what clocks are you gettng on the 680's?
and it is nice to have the complete loop in general.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> what clocks are you gettng on the 680's?
> and it is nice to have the complete loop in general.


1300mhz on one and about 1250 on the other. It's voltage limited, nothing to do about heat. And yeah, I know watercooling in general for it is better, but I don't really want to spend about $200 extra dollars for the looks. I actually like the looks of GPU's inside the rig not watercooled

By the way, where are you from in Indiana. That's where I'm from --- Currently live in Texas right now because of Military though


----------



## Boweezie

Here is my updated Revision 3 of my 800D. I hope you guys like copper piping


----------



## johnko1

Looks nice,although the bends could be better.Practice will make it perfect


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Looks nice,although the bends could be better.Practice will make it perfect


Agreed, B neg did a good tutorial here, http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101 brilliant work there Boweezie.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Here is my updated Revision 3 of my 800D. I hope you guys like copper piping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's the next thing I want to do on my rig...switch all the tubing to copper pipe


----------



## simonfredette

I just use a bender , of course I was an electrician so I have one kicking around but theyre not that pricey ( the hand help one not a hydraulic one , just half inch copper)


----------



## audioholic

Here is my loop, of course unfinished build.


----------



## kzim9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Just update picture my cosmos ii


Whats the top ASUS card? I know the one in the middle is a STX


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> Whats the top ASUS card? I know the one in the middle is a STX


Looks like a Asus sound card

It's a Asus Xonar D2X


----------



## johnko1




----------



## simonfredette

looks pretty jammed , doesnt mess with temps ? doesnt lot of space for air flow


----------



## rmorse27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I can see the photo fairly good, in fact, is the a cardboard PSU cover?


yes you are correct it is cardboard,just something I threw together and it works for me,I used the black cardboard that came with my sabertooth board nothing fancy but effective.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Here are some really crap pics of my completed build:


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmorse27*
> 
> yes you are correct it is cardboard,just something I threw together and it works for me,I used the black cardboard that came with my sabertooth board nothing fancy but effective.


Well, TBH, it looks good, even if it is cardboard.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

I've put off taking and posting pics of my current rig for a while now but I'm downgrading for a while so right now seems to be the perfect time before I let it go







.


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> I've put off taking and posting pics of my current rig for a while now but I'm downgrading for a while so right now seems to be the perfect time before I let it go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Nice clean looking rig bro, love the sleeves on the cable. Can I ask where you got the cabling from?


----------



## sunset1

If you get time i would like to see a couple of shots of this setup. thanks.
always learning..
Sunset1


----------



## SuperTBonE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice Rig. I don't see that many RV02's with an RX120 and an RX360. Makes me miss my old set up. Everything looks balanced and clean, except the SLi bridge. But nice work and more pictures please.


Thanks for the compliment. And I completely agree with you about the crossfire bridge. That and the SATA power cables are my two remaining future revisions. As for more pictures, I put together a work-log on here-

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/album/view/id/744079/user_id/299778

Thanks again!


----------



## nyk20z3

That Caselabs case is sick!

How much did it run you ?


----------



## nleksan

One of my favorite M8 builds! So clean and well done!

What do you think of the ModMyToys distribution blocks? I am thinking of picking one up until I can find a Fan Controller that I really like... Would it be safe to run a 1-to-3 fan Splitter off of it? Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> I've put off taking and posting pics of my current rig for a while now but I'm downgrading for a while so right now seems to be the perfect time before I let it go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why would you downgrade?







That thing is BEAST!









Are you going to part it out or you gonna sell it outright if that's what your intention is?









~Ceadder


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why would you downgrade?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That thing is BEAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to part it out or you gonna sell it outright if that's what your intention is?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not trying to be rude.. but it looks like there was more money spent on that sexy beast than his whole house :s


----------



## sunset1

Btw that is one awesome box. :>


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why would you downgrade?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That thing is BEAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to part it out or you gonna sell it outright if that's what your intention is?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not trying to be rude.. but it looks like there was more money spent on that sexy beast than his whole house :s
Click to expand...

Quite possibly rental house.









When in doubt do like the Japanese do and pour your money into what you love rather than the rental. If pR0n is your thing pour money into it. If it's your car treat it right. Etc etc etc.









~Ceadder


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Finished machining all the parts for my evaporative coolers. Just need to assemble the top swamp cooler, finish off the bottom cooler's drain and air channeling, and then ready for a test run. The Top swamp cooler will only be partially working, as I'm waiting until I do the final assembly before I put in the Stainless Steel wool that the water will saturate.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Your evap build is taking shape beautifully, very interesting work...nice case choice as well, fits the "something different" theme of the the whole build. Are you still using the window screen in the top compartment? That's the only part of if it that comes off as DIY, the rest looks like something you could purchase off a retail shelf somewhere.







Also, I think I remember you stating that you'll be polishing the acrylic, just wondering if you've got that far with it yet, or is it still unpolished in the those pics? Bet it was stressful leak-testing it all.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Your evap build is taking shape beautifully, very interesting work...nice case choice as well, fits the "something different" theme of the the whole build. Are you still using the window screen in the top compartment? That's the only part of if it that comes off as DIY, the rest looks like something you could purchase off a retail shelf somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I think I remember you stating that you'll be polishing the acrylic, just wondering if you've got that far with it yet, or is it still unpolished in the those pics? Bet it was stressful leak-testing it all.


Thanks! Still unpolished. Also in this pic, none of the stuff that goes around the top cooler is mounted. The top swamp cooler only rises about 2 1/2" above the original height of the case. I'm not sure what you mean by window screen though


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Hmmm, I really don't understand what's going on there? Lol.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Thanks! Still unpolished. Also in this pic, none of the stuff that goes around the top cooler is mounted. The top swamp cooler only rises about 2 1/2" above the original height of the case. I'm not sure what you mean by window screen though


I guess I was mistaken, but I could of swore you were using a mesh screen (rolled into what I would call a wick I guess) in the top compartment of the cooler. Maybe I just need some sleep lol


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Finished machining all the parts for my evaporative coolers. Just need to assemble the top swamp cooler, finish off the bottom cooler's drain and air channeling, and then ready for a test run. The Top swamp cooler will only be partially working, as I'm waiting until I do the final assembly before I put in the Stainless Steel wool that the water will saturate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Probably a stupid question, but why use stainless steel wool? Does it reduce temps better than something like antimicrobial cloth?

You know what would be really cool? SILVER WOOL!


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Hmmm, I really don't understand what's going on there? Lol.


It's an evaporative cooling system. In the top, hot water saturates steel wool and hen drips down, and flows into the vertical cooler where the water rains to the bottom. The whole time cool dry air flows over all the water dropplets and the steel wool, removing hot water vapor and heat from the steel wool. This makes for a radiator-less liquid cooling system that has a huge thermal capacity.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> I guess I was mistaken, but I could of swore you were using a mesh screen (rolled into what I would call a wick I guess) in the top compartment of the cooler. Maybe I just need some sleep lol


I used mesh screen on my last build. I don't have any of the stainless steel wool installed yet, as It's still being shipped, and plus I'm waiting until I do the final assembly of all the parts before I put them in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Probably a stupid question, but why use stainless steel wool? Does it reduce temps better than something like antimicrobial cloth?
> You know what would be really cool? SILVER WOOL!


Well It's more of a trial and error type of deal. When I used cloth, even with purified water, the cloth would still filter out the last of the impurities in the water. Basicvally using any sort of cloth becomes a huge hassle in the long run, as replacing the cloth involves rebuilding the top cooler, which would be a pita.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Thanks for the explanation. Sounds pretty cool!


----------



## Ficu




----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ficu*


WOAH.

Higher res shots?

What lighting did you use to take these shots?


----------



## raresvintea

Getto watercooling? From 3 radiators, no money invested because we've already haved, some tubing and old push-in connectors and a lot of Telephonic WIRE we've done that!







The fans are locked into the place with wire, because if we want to put screws it takes time and it was booring








You can observe some fans grilles to eliminate the possible wires that can enter in the fans... I want to know that in the case it's not a getto install! But outside we've done all that in just 2 hours....






In the past we've had, before that, a *Opel Calibra A/C Radiator,* it was absolutley insane but it works....

QUESTION: If i put those 3 rads in PARALEL not in SERIES what will be the temperature gain? I mean that temperatures will drop, because now the first rad is the hot one!


----------



## Deeks

I have a question for you about your Cooling tower style cooler. I build cooling systems very similar to this at work all the time ( Plumber ) and your cooling idea acts the same as a cooling tower would in a cooling system for a building. The question is do you have lots of problems with dust, or dirt getting into the system. i know in the systems we design the water that is in the cooling tower goes through a heat exchanger and cools another liquid which then is used to cool the building due to the fact that the open air cooling tower concept attracts a lot of foreign substances. Also how often do you have to add water ???


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## drkCrix




----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*


That res+pump
looks badass


----------



## simonfredette

Spoiler: Warning:pcmoddermike



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*






when you decide you want to completely change color scheme I want your cable extension set !! corsair wants like 100$ for that ..


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> when you decide you want to completely change color scheme I want your cable extension set !! corsair wants like 100$ for that ..


If you feel like having something to spend some time on, you could use this site to get yourself some paracord of ANY colour basically for VERY cheap








I plan on doing this very soon.

http://www.supplycaptain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=19


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> If you feel like having something to spend some time on, you could use this site to get yourself some paracord of ANY colour basically for VERY cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on doing this very soon.
> http://www.supplycaptain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=19


I was going to make my first attempt sleeving my PSU using FTW sleeving, especially since I have the whole original wire set from my AX850 laying around








FTW


----------



## mandrix




----------



## Psyco Flipside

EX240 + Enermax Apollish Vegas Silver. Imho, it looks amazing












Some AP15 pwnage


----------



## Neo Zuko

So I've decided on a Case Labs STH10 or a Merlin case.


----------



## rrims

So here's my first water cooling loop. I know it's nothing major, but I'm sure dang proud of it.

Also, ignore the imperfections (the tilted res, the clear fill tube, etc). I'm planning a whole case mod, which will require me to take this computer apart anyway. Can't wait!!


----------



## simonfredette

go caselabs !!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

All I need is some pro lighting for my pics!


----------



## rrims

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> go caselabs !!


Dunno' if you're referring to me? But I have access to a a bunch of steel working equipment. So I'm going to build a whole new front panel, top panel, and a new full window on the Haf X. I'm trying to finish the designing phase so I can begin the construction phase.









EDIT: Just noticed you weren't. My B.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> So here's my first water cooling loop. I know it's nothing major, but I'm sure dang proud of it.
> Also, ignore the imperfections (the tilted res, the clear fill tube, etc). I'm planning a whole case mod, which will require me to take this computer apart anyway. Can't wait!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics


all rigs are a work in progress , the only things that get in the way are time and money !! the rig looks great , keep up the pics of progress!!


----------



## rrims

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> all rigs are a work in progress , the only things that get in the way are time and money !! the rig looks great , keep up the pics of progress!!


Thanks.









Like I said, I'm going to be building a new side window, a whole new top panel with a matching new front panel. IMHO, the Haf X looks to.... cheap with the top/front panels. But I love the case other then that. So I should be fun.


----------



## simonfredette

yeah haf x has a bit too much plastic and meshing going on stock , thats wh stock isnt how we do things on ocn


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> yeah haf x has a bit too much plastic and meshing going on stock , thats wh stock isnt how we do things on ocn


Yup. I've got a redesign of sorts going on for my 932. Just need to get some white, black, red plexi for the doors.









~Ceadder


----------



## rrims

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup. I've got a redesign of sorts going on for my 932. Just need to get some white, black, red plexi for the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's what I can't wait for. Being able to build something that you can proudly look at. Then want to tear it apart and rebuild it in a few months.


----------



## simonfredette

thats the dream


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup. I've got a redesign of sorts going on for my 932. Just need to get some white, black, red plexi for the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I can't wait for. Being able to build something that you can proudly look at. Then want to tear it apart and rebuild it in a few months.
Click to expand...

That's why my next build is in a new case, so I can mod the crap out of it without having to tear my rig apart during the build phase. Four kids doesn't allow for computer on a cardboard box design in the interim









Probably won't happen for a while though, no sense in tearing the whole thing apart until the next Intel socket/chip


----------



## Maximuscr31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> So here's my first water cooling loop. I know it's nothing major, but I'm sure dang proud of it.
> Also, ignore the imperfections (the tilted res, the clear fill tube, etc). I'm planning a whole case mod, which will require me to take this computer apart anyway. Can't wait!!


Awesome Job!


----------



## superericla

Anyone needing an MCP655-B (D5 Basic) pump around here?


----------



## derickwm

Me


----------



## superericla

Derick, what could you possibly want an MCP655-B for? You already have (at least) one regular MCP655 pump.


----------



## derickwm

I have 3. Always need more


----------



## superericla

Haha. Well, I'm selling a tad bit of water cooling things in the marketplace at the moment. I'm switching the MCP655-B for a D5 Strong.


----------



## derickwm

Oh. I haven't hooked up my pair of D5 strongs yet. Just using my regular D5... I really need to hook them and the 24v fan controller up







Probably see a nice increase in flow ha.


----------



## superericla

Very true. I should see a pretty big flow increase going from a MCP655-B to a 24V D5 strong.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Very true. I should see a pretty big flow increase going from a MCP655-B to a 24V D5 strong.


Those pumps must be loud. I can't hear my D5 Vario at full blast, but goodness... 24v? that thing has got to have some oomph to it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh. I haven't hooked up my pair of D5 strongs yet. Just using my regular D5... I really need to hook them and the 24v fan controller up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably see a nice increase in flow ha.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Very true. I should see a pretty big flow increase going from a MCP655-B to a 24V D5 strong.


You guys talking about using a 24V D5 has me curious. The Koolance PMP-450S I'm using, I think it's supposed to be capable of running at 24V? Specs on Performance PCs site for the pump say, *Maximum Flow Rate: 17.4L/min (4.6 gal/min) @ 12V, 22.3L/min (5.9 gal/min) @ 24V*. Currently it's just plugged into a molex coming off my power supply, so that's only 12V right? How do I run it at 24V?


----------



## ginger_nuts

There might be an easier way, but using a 24v transformer would work.

But then you would want it to be controlled by a 12vDC relay which switches when your computer starts.


----------



## derickwm

The answer.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The answer.


Thanks...imaginary +rep.

EDIT: Would you recommend the CTR-SPD24X2?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The answer.


I gave your Avvy a +Rep. She rolled over and gave me a pat on me tuchus. I fell asleep satisfied.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The answer.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks...imaginary +rep.
> 
> EDIT: Would you recommend the CTR-SPD24X2?
Click to expand...

Yes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The answer.
> 
> 
> 
> I gave your Avvy a +Rep. She rolled over and gave me a pat on me tuchus. I fell asleep satisfied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

This post.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

No Derick
I will not

MWHAHAHHAAHAHAH





Expecting more fittings and another pump tomorrow :3


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> -snip-


Only when you have that army of 7990's in your possession!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SheaGA*
> 
> May i join this fine club? here is my toy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Throwback!


You ever go through old posts and drool at some of the early stuff? This one looks pretty cool.


----------



## pirates712

Quick question-

I bought the EK mobo waterblock for my crosshair V. They gave me thermal pads, but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to cut them to fit each thing to be cooled or just lay the whole thing on there. It seems like cut to fit would be better but I don't want to do all that work if I don't have to.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pirates712*
> 
> Quick question-
> I bought the EK mobo waterblock for my crosshair V. They gave me thermal pads, but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to cut them to fit each thing to be cooled or just lay the whole thing on there. It seems like cut to fit would be better but I don't want to do all that work if I don't have to.


Should be cut to fit. That's how it's been when I buy their blocks for my cards, I have to cut to fit the thermal pads.


----------



## pirates712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Should be cut to fit. That's how it's been when I buy their blocks for my cards, I have to cut to fit the thermal pads.


Cool thanks


----------



## Plutonium10

Well, my water cooled build just came to a sudden halt. This was under the socket cover when I opened it. What should I do?







Looks like a flake of hard, clear plastic. Tried blowing it out, but wouldnt budge.


----------



## phillyd

Tweezers? be VERY careful.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Tweezers? be VERY careful.


Yeah, I'm just worried that if something has already been damaged, i wont be able to RMA the board if I take it out and put the CPU in.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Tweezers? be VERY careful.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm just worried that if something has already been damaged, i wont be able to RMA the board if I take it out and put the CPU in.
Click to expand...

why cant you RMA it if you take that out?
and you could just ask support.


----------



## Hanoverfist

I second the Tweezer:thumb:^^^


----------



## Plutonium10

'Twas tweezered. Now biting my nails until I get things plugged in and boot it.


----------



## rotary7

You have to be relaxed on this kinda stuff or you will be biting your nails.


----------



## zdude

Okay, quick question will these Fans be enough to run a MONSTA radiator in P/P and get decent airflow?


----------



## simonfredette

well its not really a rad fan as much as a case fan but it would do the trick , good cfm doesnt say much about pressure , ideally they would need a shroud to get really good results or match something like a gentle typhoon , but even just having those as a push pull wouldnt be bad ,I have 4 of those ( or a very similar yate) on the 240 in my rig.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> You have to be relaxed on this kinda stuff or you will be biting your nails.


It booted without any problems.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> It booted without any problems.


My friend was drunk and put in his cpu up side down. That was a nightmare to fix. Getting things in those pins scares me. I keep the cpu socket cover taped to the back of all my motherboards.

This is worth watching imo.... I got my evaporative cooler loop working....


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> My friend was drunk and put in his cpu up side down. That was a nightmare to fix. Getting things in those pins scares me. I keep the cpu socket cover taped to the back of all my motherboards.
> This is worth watching imo.... I got my evaporative cooler loop working....


That fan mount on the top cooler scares me. It doesn't look like there is much space between the floor of the cooler and the opening. Is the top cooler sloped so the water naturally runs down to the front?


----------



## tippy25

What kind of lens is on that camera? I felt like I was watching it through one of those carnival fun house mirrors.

Props on the evap cooling integrated into the case. Looks pretty cool.

I eventually plan on doing some kind of evap cooling, but will likely use PVC misting nozzles. Those were actually what we used to cure the concrete canoe this year. They generated a very fine mist, but they were also powered by the building's water lines, so I imagine the pressure was significantly higher.


----------



## JWak-1

I'm new to watercooling and PC building/modding in general (be gentle please). I bought a cheap 120mm radiator off of eBay, mostly because I wanted to experiment with painting the outer of the radiator. But should it prove to be in good condition (not arrived yet), would it still be suitable to use in my first custom loop? It's an XSPC R120-S:



(image is not of my actual rad, but it is this exact model).

Also, I was looking at pumps and wanted to possibly use this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140796902792?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Couple these parts with an EK block:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330763326600?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

For the reservoir I was thinking of XSPC's clear single bay units, and obviously all the other fittings and tubing individually.

I'd rather not buy a kit, I know its my first attempt, but it feels wrong to buy brand new parts in a kit and paint them (hence the 2nd hand radiator).


----------



## ginger_nuts

It is never wrong to buy new then void the warranty.


----------



## JWak-1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> It is never wrong to buy new then void the warranty.


Lol, indeed.
But if I'm gona ruin it, it might as well be old. But if I get it right, if it's worth it, I can use it.

Question is is that rad too old to bother with......


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JWak-1*
> 
> Lol, indeed.
> But if I'm gona ruin it, it might as well be old. But if I get it right, if it's worth it, I can use it.
> Question is is that rad too old to bother with......


Just a single 120 rad may be a bit small depending on what you are cooling, this is Martins review of the RS series rads, its for a 360 but spec's should be the same.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/27/xspc-rs360-radiator/
The general rule of thumb is 1 x 120 then add 120 for each block you are cooling.


----------



## broken pixel

Buy local you get 30 days to mess up the hardware and return it for a new. Or buy the extended in house warranty plans at Microcenter and you have 2 years to tweak hard and can exchange.


----------



## JWak-1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Buy local you get 30 days to mess up the hardware and return it for a new. Or buy the extended in house warranty plans at Microcenter and you have 2 years to tweak hard and can exchange.


I'm based in the UK, can't see them shipping to me and accepting buggered up parts back







But thank you for the advice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Just a single 120 rad may be a bit small depending on what you are cooling, this is Martins review of the RS series rads, its for a 360 but spec's should be the same.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/27/xspc-rs360-radiator/
> The general rule of thumb is 1 x 120 then add 120 for each block you are cooling.


It's a 'double' thick 120, but its not an XSPC RS model, its from the generation of XSPC rads before that. I plan on only cooling the CPU, going to look at mounting it in the bottom of my NZXT Phantom after removing the HDD cage. Sound like a plan?


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JWak-1*
> 
> I'm based in the UK, can't see them shipping to me and accepting buggered up parts back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But thank you for the advice.
> It's a 'double' thick 120, but its not an XSPC RS model, its from the generation of XSPC rads before that. I plan on only cooling the CPU, going to look at mounting it in the bottom of my NZXT Phantom after removing the HDD cage. Sound like a plan?


You'll never know till you try, personally I'd go at least a 240, maybe get another 120 and mount it on the rear exhaust fan? Either way mate its addictive, one rad wont satisfy you once the bug bites.


----------



## JWak-1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> You'll never know till you try, personally I'd go at least a 240, maybe get another 120 and mount it on the rear exhaust fan? Either way mate its addictive, one rad wont satisfy you once the bug bites.


Tell me about it, I thought after I'd finished building the PC id be over it.

Nope









I'm interested in modding my case a bit and doing a WC loop, hopefully the obsession will have subsided by then.

I was thinking a 240 rad, not sure it will it into the bottom of my case without cutting holes to fit the rad down there. Mounting it in the roof is an option, but I'd rather keep airflow front>back/top and I think it will look neater in the bottom. I can try this and replace the rad with a 240 later maybe. Will the lump I linked be ok for a 240 rad? Does 640/L per hour.


----------



## JWak-1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> You'll never know till you try, personally I'd go at least a 240, maybe get another 120 and mount it on the rear exhaust fan? Either way mate its addictive, one rad wont satisfy you once the bug bites.


Ah, I think u meant maybe putting a 2nd 120mm rad in the back as well







Nice


----------



## mandrix

So getting back to those pumps running at 24v......I notice the Swiftech MCP655 pumps are rated for 24V. Anyone know what the difference in flow is from 12 to 24v? Just curious, I can't imagine me needing it. Guessing it would depend on how good the impeller is/what top is used but I'll take a ballpark number if anyone wants to volunteer one.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> So getting back to those pumps running at 24v......I notice the Swiftech MCP655 pumps are rated for 24V. Anyone know what the difference in flow is from 12 to 24v? Just curious, I can't imagine me needing it. Guessing it would depend on how good the impeller is/what top is used but I'll take a ballpark number if anyone wants to volunteer one.


Little to no difference for a regular D5 pump.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Little to no difference for a regular D5 pump.


Thanks for posting that, I was curious myself.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> That fan mount on the top cooler scares me. It doesn't look like there is much space between the floor of the cooler and the opening. Is the top cooler sloped so the water naturally runs down to the front?


Yeh right now there isn't much clearance. I have the top section partitioned so the back few drains aren't getting water. When I do the final assembly, I will have a barrier in there to keep water from going out the back fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tippy25*
> 
> What kind of lens is on that camera? I felt like I was watching it through one of those carnival fun house mirrors.
> Props on the evap cooling integrated into the case. Looks pretty cool.
> I eventually plan on doing some kind of evap cooling, but will likely use PVC misting nozzles. Those were actually what we used to cure the concrete canoe this year. They generated a very fine mist, but they were also powered by the building's water lines, so I imagine the pressure was significantly higher.


IT's a wide angle lense mounted to my 18-55mm lense on a nikon d5100. Yeah, getting a pump to do water misting is a whole other ball game. When I used water injection on my car (We use water injection to bring down air temps in our turbocharger air hoses in order to get better power from the forced induction systems) one high flow pump was for just one injector, albeit a bit higher flow rate than what you would need for evap cooling. Also keep in mind, if you mist all your water, yes it will cool great, but your fan will also blow it all out and you will go through gallons every hour.


----------



## Onions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> 'Twas tweezered. Now biting my nails until I get things plugged in and boot it.


your avatar sais it all....

glad to hear you got it goign again









so a question for teh wc folks here. I got a 655 and im wcing my xbox 360. Im looking at getting a nice looking but cheap *must be cheap* top/res for it must be a cylinder. any recomendations. Also from dazmode would be prefered as im in canada and hate the border


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JWak-1*
> 
> Will the lump I linked be ok for a 240 rad? Does 640/L per hour.


I have never seen or heard of those pumps mate, doesn't mean they are no good but tbh the pump is one thing you don't want to cheap out on, they can always be used in a future build/upgrade, so better of getting a good one from the get go. . Thats just my opinion btw, maybe someone who has used those pumps will come along with some better info. If you don't want to spend a lot maybe have a look at the EK DCP pumps
Good luck with the build.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That evap water cooling system looks really cool but it is awful loud. Not sure I'd want my computer sitting next to me sounding like it was having a pee all day, lol...


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That evap water cooling system looks really cool but it is awful loud. Not sure I'd want my computer sitting next to me sounding like it was having a pee all day, lol...


First, Thanks! Second, The reflex to pee to the sound of water goes away very quickly and permanently. That's medical fact. Third, the constant noise in the video is a fan I had sitting next to me, Fourth, I ordered glass rock chunks to put in the bottom of the cooler to deaden the noise of the water falling. The top cooler is virtually silent, It's the sound from the bottom that you can hear. And it's really not that loud in general. The sound you hear in the video isn't right either, it will be more of a constant rainfall sound like I had in my Project Rainfall's coolers.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Ahhh, cool! Be sure to post a vid when its all finished!


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

I actually find the sound of flowing water very relaxing...it helps me sleep, and is why I've had a fish tank or two around. I think it would be soothing to sit and do some work or play near your evap cooling setup...kind of like those little indoor fountains people have in their homes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Little to no difference for a regular D5 pump.


Thats the standard D5,not the strong version.
The strong version does about 1gpm more


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats the standard D5,not the strong version.
> The strong version does about 1gpm more


True, but he was talking about the Swiftech MCP655 which is just a standard D5.


----------



## hammerforged

A few updated pics of my rig. Got some more sleeved cables, lightning and some noise blocker fans.


----------



## mironccr345

^ That is Very Clean! Awesome rig!


----------



## zdude

little question, made a new thread.

Linky


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Little to no difference for a regular D5 pump.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks, I wasn't sure if that was all D5's or just the MCP655.
Looking at that chart, I'm not seeing something right or Martin was off on his power calculations. I checked one of my D5's at 12v and it was closer to 22w. Difference in pumps? I dunno.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Mail


----------



## ohms

Here's a nice picture... It taken maybe an hour ago after I mounted my XSPC Razor 680 GTX blocks, SLI flow bridge and EVGA 680 GTX back plates on my 670 FTW Editions.


----------



## simonfredette

sweet !


----------



## mironccr345

^ what he said! More Pics!


----------



## SenorRed




----------



## zzorro

hi guys..here some update pic from thebluewavemod set up..opss still under contruction hehe







stay tuned









The light..



The loops..





..give some comments for more improvement.. TQ


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> hi guys..here some update pic from thebluewavemod set up..opss still under contruction hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stay tuned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The light..
> 
> ..give some comments for mome improvement.. TQ


Looks great, 1 question though, whare are those lighted blocks?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guess I'm contemplating doing a custom loop on my rv03 have a couple questions on surface area needed to cool my components.

Is a single 120mm read good enough for my 2500k?

How much surface area is needed to cool my 690 and 2500k in? (How if I was going to use 180mm rads and how much if I was using 120mm rads)

And lastly how does the hydro copper 690 block compare to the others (ex. Koolance, ek, etc) and what color is the light on the side of the hydro cooper block?


----------



## zdude

In order to cool your 2500k I would recomend atleast a single 180 or 120.2 and for the 690 + 2500k at least a double if not triple 180 or 120.4-120.5

the hydro copper block has a red led in it but that can be swapped.


----------



## johnko1

I believe if you change the gpu block with something better isn't worth it.Gpu temps go down on watercooling a lot


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Hey Kevin if you could update my Build #2 pictures with a link to this post (http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/25200#post_17869292) I'd appreciate it, thanks!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> In order to cool your 2500k I would recomend atleast a single 180 or 120.2 and for the 690 + 2500k at least a double if not triple 180 or 120.4-120.5
> the hydro copper block has a red led in it but that can be swapped.


Hmm you really think it would take 4-5x120mm to cool my 2500k and 690.. it only took 4x120 to cool my 2x580s and i7 950 on my last build, isn't the 2500k and 690 cooler then sli 580s and i7 950!?!?

I actually like red so that's perfect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> I believe if you change the gpu block with something better isn't worth it.Gpu temps go down on watercooling a lot


Huh?


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hmm you really think it would take 4-5x120mm to cool my 2500k and 690.. it only took 4x120 to cool my 2x580s and i7 950 on my last build, isn't the 2500k and 690 cooler then sli 580s and i7 950!?!?
> I actually like red so that's perfect
> Huh?


you dont need that many rads, i had 2x 6970s and a 920 on a single 360 lol. Then i had the 2x 6970s and a 5ghz 2700k on 2x 240s

a good 360 would be fine


----------



## zdude

I like the silence so I need alot of rad and I like low water deltas (my 3930k + GTX 580 loop is begging for another 360mm rad)


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> I like the silence so I need alot of rad and I like low water deltas (my 3930k + GTX 580 loop is begging for another 360mm rad)


My loop had a hwlabs black ice extreme 360rad n 120rad with ap15s in push/pull and my 580s Max temp I've ever seen on load was 41c, and the fans made it very silent.

2x 360rads for your 3930k and a 580 is soooo overkill IMO


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> you dont need that many rads, i had 2x 6970s and a 920 on a single 360 lol. Then i had the 2x 6970s and a 5ghz 2700k on 2x 240s
> a good 360 would be fine


What where your temps with the 2700k and 2x6970 with the 2x240rads?

Does a 180mm rad equal 1 1/2 120mm rad surface or??


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> I like the silence so I need alot of rad and I like low water deltas (my 3930k + GTX 580 loop is begging for another 360mm rad)
> 
> 
> 
> My loop had a hwlabs black ice extreme 360rad n 120rad with ap15s in push/pull and my 580s Max temp I've ever seen on load was 41c, and the fans made it very silent.
> 
> 2x 360rads for your 3930k and a 580 is soooo overkill IMO
Click to expand...

even with my single 360 + a ghetto rad I am still getting terrible temps with a 20C delta on the water (corsair sp120 QE fans in push with a 4th on pull)


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Looks great, 1 question though, whare are those lighted blocks?


TQ







..arcylic block with back led...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> even with my single 360 + a ghetto rad I am still getting terrible temps with a 20C delta on the water (corsair sp120 QE fans in push with a 4th on pull)


Just googled your Alphacool ST30 360mm rad and that thing is soooo thin no wonder you have horrible temps, replace that with a thinker rad if possible like a hwlabs black ice extreme 360 or something just as thick and you will see a huge drop in temps, no wonder you want to add a second 360 hahaha


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've got a Black Ice Extreme 560mm and 240mm rads cooling a 3960X and two 7970's and the highest gpu temps I've seen is 55C at 1382mV and 1250MHz. Don't know how you guys can keep gpu temps in the low 40C's but I'm still happy with my temps....


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've got a Black Ice Extreme 560mm and 240mm rads cooling a 3960X and two 7970's and the highest gpu temps I've seen is 55C at 1382mV and 1250MHz. Don't know how you guys can keep gpu temps in the low 40C's but I'm still happy with my temps....


Well I bet your 3960x and 7970's aren't running stock like my 950 and 580s were








Plus ambient temps plays a big role as well


----------



## cre8ive65

Do you think that a 360mm rad is enough for 2 7970's @ 1.2Ghz + 3570k @ 4.6GHz?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre8ive65*
> 
> Do you think that a 360mm rad is enough for 2 7970's @ 1.2Ghz + 3570k @ 4.6GHz?


Thats plenty,the rule of thumb is 120 per block then an extra 120 on top,this is plenty for most rigs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay I'm gonna azx a stoopid question, but Deltas are Idle with no fans?









I never use the term and before I start using it I want to be sure I've got the idea.









~Ceadder


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay I'm gonna azx a stoopid question, but Deltas are Idle with no fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never use the term and before I start using it I want to be sure I've got the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


delta is the diffrence in temp between coolant and ambient

I determine my coolant temp by taking my inital idle temps (on a cold boot after being off for ~14hours (my loop has 4 gallons in it) then subtract that off of your idle temps immediatly after 2-3 hours of P95/Haven and there you go.

I can't use a thicker Rad because that is all I have room for in my case


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats plenty,the rule of thumb is 120 per block then an extra 120 on top,this is plenty for most rigs.


dont want to seem like im contradicting , I use the same rule of thumb you just described and that would put him 120 short , it would be enough but just enough and not the coolest he could get his things .. I ran my 2 x 570s and an i7 960 @ 4.3 with just a 360 and couldnt believe the difference when I added my 240 .. Glad to see other people using the same rule , 120 per block plus a spare 120 for better temps and lower fan speeds .


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Well I bet your 3960x and 7970's aren't running stock like my 950 and 580s were
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus ambient temps plays a big role as well


No, the 3960X is at 5ghz...


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> , 120 per block plus a spare 120 for better temps and lower fan speeds .
> 
> 
> 
> So right
Click to expand...


----------



## Codycjd

Yay I can finally join the club!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay I'm gonna azx a stoopid question, but Deltas are Idle with no fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never use the term and before I start using it I want to be sure I've got the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> delta is the diffrence in temp between coolant and ambient
> 
> I determine my coolant temp by taking my inital idle temps (on a cold boot after being off for ~14hours (my loop has 4 gallons in it) then subtract that off of your idle temps immediatly after 2-3 hours of P95/Haven and there you go.
> 
> I can't use a thicker Rad because that is all I have room for in my case
Click to expand...

4 Gallons


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I saw that too! My loop didn't even take 2 liters!


----------



## simonfredette

ya I dont know about 16 litres , thats literally the size if a mid case , like grab a haf x and fill it with water and you have 4 gallons lol


----------



## Egameman

new rig coming up..

crappy pic from my lumia 800 phone...

Still alot of work that needs to be done, this is just a test fitting..

- gpu block
- sleeve cables from pump, fan controller and 5mm led.

- drill out hole for plexiglass / acrylic

- 4 x 45 degree rotaries
-1x 30 degree rotary and a bitspower drain valve









The case is an Arc mini







, and yes thats a 60 mm thick rad


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre8ive65*
> 
> Do you think that a 360mm rad is enough for 2 7970's @ 1.2Ghz + 3570k @ 4.6GHz?


In regards to the 1 120mm per component, I think it should be mentioned that it does matter the thickness, type and speed of fans, push/pull etc. Im not going to pretend I know a lot about this, but when I had a phenom II 955 and two 6950s in my loop with 1 360mm black ice rad (non extreme) and 1500 rpm enermax fans in push on the rad, I was hitting around 60C while benching. Granted the 955 was at 1.55 volts and 4.4Ghz, and the 6950s were @950 on 1.25 volts, but I think that assuming you will get mid 40 max temps like some of these other people on 120mm rad space per component is not correct IMO, depending on OC, heat output of cards/proc etc. Also, I think people should specify what "good enough" means when they ask for rad suggestions, people have varying expectations with that as well.

Just my experience.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I have a few questions about the swiftech apogee drive ii, can you chose which port is the inlet and which is the outlet or it only works one way? and secondly how would you fill your loop if you had your res on the opposite side of the loop (res at the bottom of the case, apogee at the top of the case) ??


----------



## johnko1

Is anyone updating the google spreadsheet? It hasn't been updated for almost two weeks(just noticed I'm not in there







)...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> delta is the diffrence in temp between coolant and ambient
> I determine my coolant temp by taking my inital idle temps (on a cold boot after being off for ~14hours (my loop has 4 gallons in it) then subtract that off of your idle temps immediatly after 2-3 hours of P95/Haven and there you go.
> I can't use a thicker Rad because that is all I have room for in my case


lol @ 4 gallons


----------



## LuckyNumber13

And it grows..almost done buying the cooling
parts i need for my next build..ordering a RX480 rad
tomorrow then all i need is the CPU block.
not sure which way i'm gonna have my loop flow
so i made 2 options for now..not sure which
one would be more beneficial.any ideas?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay I'm gonna azx a stoopid question, but Deltas are Idle with no fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never use the term and before I start using it I want to be sure I've got the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> delta is the diffrence in temp between coolant and ambient
> 
> I determine my coolant temp by taking my inital idle temps (on a cold boot after being off for ~14hours (my loop has 4 gallons in it) then subtract that off of your idle temps immediatly after 2-3 hours of P95/Haven and there you go.
> 
> I can't use a thicker Rad because that is all I have room for in my case
Click to expand...

I've got room for a thicker Radiator but I didn't want to fill the only plexi window I got with 3 fans and a thick bodied Radiater.









You meant 4L right? 4 Gallons is quite insane unless you have a 5 gallon bucket Reservoir hanging off the back of the case.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats plenty,the rule of thumb is 120 per block then an extra 120 on top,this is plenty for most rigs.
> 
> 
> 
> dont want to seem like im contradicting , I use the same rule of thumb you just described and that would put him 120 short , it would be enough but just enough and not the coolest he could get his things .. I ran my 2 x 570s and an i7 960 @ 4.3 with just a 360 and couldnt believe the difference when I added my 240 .. Glad to see other people using the same rule , 120 per block plus a spare 120 for better temps and lower fan speeds .
Click to expand...

I'm happy I'm running a 360 for my mainboard and CPU blocks. I hope I can drop a 140 or 180 in for the GPU/XFire setup to keep things on the chilly side.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> ya I dont know about 16 litres , thats literally the size if a mid case , like grab a haf x and fill it with water and you have 4 gallons lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> delta is the diffrence in temp between coolant and ambient
> I determine my coolant temp by taking my inital idle temps (on a cold boot after being off for ~14hours (my loop has 4 gallons in it) then subtract that off of your idle temps immediatly after 2-3 hours of P95/Haven and there you go.
> I can't use a thicker Rad because that is all I have room for in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol @ 4 gallons
Click to expand...

I am relatively sure he meant 4 liters.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few questions about the swiftech apogee drive ii, can you chose which port is the inlet and which is the outlet or it only works one way? and secondly how would you fill your loop if you had your res on the opposite side of the loop (res at the bottom of the case, apogee at the top of the case) ??


It's setup only one way but all you need to do is mount the block the direction you want the flow to go. In being the side closest to your Res and out the side closest to your Radiator or next stop in the loop.









My only issue with that block setup is added heat from the pump. Is it going to be a minimal increase(likely) and does it flow into the block or does it draw out through the block expelling the heat away from the CPU.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> And it grows..almost done buying the cooling
> parts i need for my next build..ordering a RX480 rad
> tomorrow then all i need is the CPU block.
> not sure which way i'm gonna have my loop flow
> so i made 2 options for now..not sure which
> one would be more beneficial.any ideas?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Go with this one but I would suggest flowing this direction...

Res > Pump >RAM > CPU > Radiator > GPU > Radiator > Res

That's how I have mine set up other than the 2nd Radiator. The temp will even out, but it should be slightly cooler running it in this configuration.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Is anyone updating the google spreadsheet? It hasn't been updated for almost two weeks(just noticed I'm not in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )...


i was updating this morning,still have a some pics to do. Be patient


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> And it grows..almost done buying the cooling
> parts i need for my next build..ordering a RX480 rad
> tomorrow then all i need is the CPU block.
> not sure which way i'm gonna have my loop flow
> so i made 2 options for now..not sure which
> one would be more beneficial.any ideas?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go with this one but I would suggest flowing this direction...
> 
> Res > Pump >RAM > CPU > Radiator > GPU > Radiator > Res
> 
> That's how I have mine set up other than the 2nd Radiator. The temp will even out, but it should be slightly cooler running it in this configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Where you keep the radiators in the loop will not make any sort of noticeable difference in temperatures. Tube it which ever way gives you the shortest loop.


----------



## wermad

Bought a closed loop system. Would have loved to kept my Silver Arrow but its suffocating my top gpu. Pics when it arrives


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> And it grows..almost done buying the cooling
> parts i need for my next build..ordering a RX480 rad
> tomorrow then all i need is the CPU block.
> not sure which way i'm gonna have my loop flow
> so i made 2 options for now..not sure which
> one would be more beneficial.any ideas?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go with this one but I would suggest flowing this direction...
> 
> Res > Pump >RAM > CPU > Radiator > GPU > Radiator > Res
> 
> That's how I have mine set up other than the 2nd Radiator. The temp will even out, but it should be slightly cooler running it in this configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Where you keep the radiators in the loop will not make any sort of noticeable difference in temperatures. Tube it which ever way gives you the shortest loop.
Click to expand...

No argument there. Flipping that bottom Rad 180 however should accomplish both without issue. Especially when that Frozen Q Res is also 180'd to allow fillport and Radiator fill.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

what kind of effect on temps or general performance does the length of tubing have , I always liked tubing in the computer and wanted to make it obvious with my build by making it what you see through the window. The result is I must have 2-3 feet of extra tubing in my rig , I took long wide loops to get from one place to another and used no angled fittings.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> what kind of effect on temps or general performance does the length of tubing have , I always liked tubing in the computer and wanted to make it obvious with my build by making it what you see through the window. The result is I must have 2-3 feet of extra tubing in my rig , I took long wide loops to get from one place to another and used no angled fittings.


Unnecessary tube will put more load on the pump as it has to push more liquid through the loop. I can say through prior experience you won't notice any thermal difference, but its a long term gain by helping your pump live longer. Also, shorter runs of tube make a water loop look very clean in its presentation


----------



## cre8ive65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats plenty,the rule of thumb is 120 per block then an extra 120 on top,this is plenty for most rigs.


Wait, then that would mean 360mm isnt enough, i have 2 CFX 7970's and a CPU to cool, so 480mm?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> what kind of effect on temps or general performance does the length of tubing have , I always liked tubing in the computer and wanted to make it obvious with my build by making it what you see through the window. The result is I must have 2-3 feet of extra tubing in my rig , I took long wide loops to get from one place to another and used no angled fittings.


I can kind of see your reasoning there, but long excessive runs is really not the way to go. Shorter clean runs not only looks better, but as wermad said is more efficient. I'm pretty sure either way, it's going to be hard for someone to miss the fact that your computer is water cooled. I wouldn't make an effort to have tubing all over the place just to make sure people who glance inside your computer know it's water cooled.


----------



## rotary7

It took my almost 7 feet of tubing to do mine and I made everything tight.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> hi guys..here some update pic from thebluewavemod set up..opss still under contruction hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stay tuned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The light..
> 
> ..give some comments for more improvement.. TQ


Does anyone know how those acrylic light blocks are made, ive seen them in a few builds now, they are neat


----------



## audioholic

Finally got the Vulcan all finished up. Going to be adding some accent lights on the reservoir. And finish my uncompleted sleeving and then make another cover and it shall be complete









EDIT: and change out all the fans to more quiet ones


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> hi guys..here some update pic from thebluewavemod set up..opss still under contruction hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stay tuned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The light..
> 
> ..give some comments for more improvement.. TQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how those acrylic light blocks are made, ive seen them in a few builds now, they are neat
Click to expand...

I thought I saw them on the Koolance shop one time.

EDIT: Or maybe the person was just using Koolance LED kits... Ya I think they are custom made. Just cut clear 1/2" acrylic and 1/8" black acrylic, glue them together and add 3 LEDs to each block.


----------



## fa5terba11

Quote:


> I can kind of see your reasoning there, but long excessive runs is really not the way to go. Shorter clean runs not only looks better, but as wermad said is more efficient. I'm pretty sure either way, it's going to be hard for someone to miss the fact that your computer is water cooled. I wouldn't make an effort to have tubing all over the place just to make sure people who glance inside your computer know it's water cooled.


Shorter, tighter, and tidier is the way to go when running tubing. Not only is it more aesthetically pleasing, but it is more practical in terms of serving the purpose it is being used for, which ought to be cooling.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bought a closed loop system. Would have loved to kept my Silver Arrow but its suffocating my top gpu. Pics when it arrives


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Not going back to big water atm. Running triple gpu on air requires spacing and, well....here you can see my dilemma:



The top cards runs about 5-8c more than the other two. I did some research and these closed loop coolers are about the same as the highend coolers. I'm still not ready for custom water and all its drama


----------



## derickwm

Who are you and what did you do with wermad?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Who are you and what did you do with wermad?


I have him chained up in the basement









Might change my case...







....there, I'm my old self again


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The top cards runs about 5-8c more than the other two. I did some research and these closed loop coolers are about the same as the highend coolers. I'm still not ready for custom water and all its drama


Thats normal wermad,the primary card is always hotter than the others


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The top cards runs about 5-8c more than the other two. I did some research and these closed loop coolers are about the same as the highend coolers. I'm still not ready for custom water and all its drama
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats normal wermad,the primary card is always hotter than the others
Click to expand...

Really? I thought it was because heat rises so the top card would be the hottest and its sucking in the heat from the card below it. Bottom would be coolest because it is pulling the coldest air in.

I have 4x GTX 460s and the bottom is coolest and gets hotter by 2C going up the stack.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats normal wermad,the primary card is always hotter than the others


With that setup (three 6970 lightnings) all monitors connections were going into the second card. I did test it with the single 560 I have right now and there's a notable difference. This will go up once the two other cards are put in. I will say this one runs a lot cooler than the old amd ones. The closed loop system will allow me to direct airflow better to the gpu(s) taking advantage of the positive pressure created by the three 230s and two 140s.

edit: with the amd setup, were talking about 10-15c difference (ouch). I've already bought the cooler. Plus, I'm eying a new case and the Silver Arrow would have not fitted in it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Really? I thought it was because heat rises so the top card would be the hottest and its sucking in the heat from the card below it. Bottom would be coolest because it is pulling the coldest air in.
> I have 4x GTX 460s and the bottom is coolest and gets hotter by 2C going up the stack.


Convection has no part in heat dynamics in a PC,once the air is moved by any fan.
I have the temp difference on my bench with my 6870's and these cards are not stacked and are under water.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> With that setup (three 6970 lightnings) all monitors connections were going into the second card. I did test it with the single 560 I have right now and there's a notable difference. This will go up once the two other cards are put in. I will say this one runs a lot cooler than the old amd ones. The closed loop system will allow me to direct airflow better to the gpu(s) taking advantage of the positive pressure created by the three 230s and two 140s.
> edit: with the amd setup, were talking about 10-15c difference (ouch). I've already bought the cooler. Plus, I'm eying a new case and the Silver Arrow would have not fitted in it


10-15c is a bit much,5-8c is more the norm.
I get where you are coming from about the cooler starving air tho.

this link is one of many regarding Sli and card temps
http://www.overclock.net/t/1212705/gtx-560-in-sli-one-card-running-hotter-than-the-other


----------



## Extreme191Pro

My Rig :


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Extreme191Pro*
> 
> My Rig :


Did you fill your loop with milk?









Nice,but you could route the tubing a bit better I believe








The pump pushes water to the block or pulls?


----------



## Extreme191Pro

The pump pushes water to the block. Water Coolant is Mayhems Pastel Ice White.


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I thought I saw them on the Koolance shop one time.
> EDIT: Or maybe the person was just using Koolance LED kits... Ya I think they are custom made. Just cut clear 1/2" acrylic and 1/8" black acrylic, glue them together and add 3 LEDs to each block.


not koolance LED kit..it is flexible LED light strip ribbon..


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Nice,but you could route the tubing a bit better I believe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump pushes water to the block or pulls?


Johnko has a point, flip your block and go- pump>rad>block>res, though tbh it would only be for looks, anyway nice work and welcome to the club.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> not koolance LED kit..it is flexible LED light strip ribbon..


well they look really cool


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Got my cooling loop fully running last night.


----------



## johnko1

Looks great.I will definitely won't try this on my pc,I'm scared with the thought that the roof will collapse and the whole pc will get wet


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Got my cooling loop fully running last night.
> 
> 
> look like Aquarium filters


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Got my cooling loop fully running last night.


Again great work GTR, re that last fan hole, I have been using one of these with my dremel for fan holes in plexi http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-678-01-Circle-Cutter-Straight/dp/B000HI5WTY and they work great, well worth it, especially now that your addicted to mods.


----------



## Skripka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> not koolance LED kit..it is flexible LED light strip ribbon..


Pretty, but they need to be blinky-lights.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Again great work GTR, re that last fan hole, I have been using one of these with my dremel for fan holes in plexi http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-678-01-Circle-Cutter-Straight/dp/B000HI5WTY and they work great, well worth it, especially now that your addicted to mods.


What bit do you use with this? I assume it wouldnt work with metal?


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> not koolance LED kit..it is flexible LED light strip ribbon..


Yeah you can use LED light strips, LED Tape, or even Electroluminescent Tape (EL Tape) to come up with some cool lighting effects.

Another thing might be getting the LED "blaster" (looks like 7 LED's in a 90* arc most likely for use in a case corner. Put that behind a hollowed out acrylic cube and have fun


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Got my cooling loop fully running last night.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What is that in the 1st pic above? Fluid level indicator?

That fan hole still scares me


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay I'm gonna azx a stoopid question, but Deltas are Idle with no fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never use the term and before I start using it I want to be sure I've got the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> delta is the diffrence in temp between coolant and ambient
> 
> I determine my coolant temp by taking my inital idle temps (on a cold boot after being off for ~14hours (my loop has 4 gallons in it) then subtract that off of your idle temps immediatly after 2-3 hours of P95/Haven and there you go.
> 
> I can't use a thicker Rad because that is all I have room for in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 4 Gallons
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I saw that too! My loop didn't even take 2 liters!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> ya I dont know about 16 litres , thats literally the size if a mid case , like grab a haf x and fill it with water and you have 4 gallons lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> delta is the diffrence in temp between coolant and ambient
> I determine my coolant temp by taking my inital idle temps (on a cold boot after being off for ~14hours (my loop has 4 gallons in it) then subtract that off of your idle temps immediatly after 2-3 hours of P95/Haven and there you go.
> I can't use a thicker Rad because that is all I have room for in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol @ 4 gallons
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay I'm gonna azx a stoopid question, but Deltas are Idle with no fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never use the term and before I start using it I want to be sure I've got the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> delta is the diffrence in temp between coolant and ambient
> 
> I determine my coolant temp by taking my inital idle temps (on a cold boot after being off for ~14hours (my loop has 4 gallons in it) then subtract that off of your idle temps immediatly after 2-3 hours of P95/Haven and there you go.
> 
> I can't use a thicker Rad because that is all I have room for in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've got room for a thicker Radiator but I didn't want to fill the only plexi window I got with 3 fans and a thick bodied Radiater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You meant 4L right? 4 Gallons is quite insane unless you have a 5 gallon bucket Reservoir hanging off the back of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats plenty,the rule of thumb is 120 per block then an extra 120 on top,this is plenty for most rigs.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> dont want to seem like im contradicting , I use the same rule of thumb you just described and that would put him 120 short , it would be enough but just enough and not the coolest he could get his things .. I ran my 2 x 570s and an i7 960 @ 4.3 with just a 360 and couldnt believe the difference when I added my 240 .. Glad to see other people using the same rule , 120 per block plus a spare 120 for better temps and lower fan speeds .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm happy I'm running a 360 for my mainboard and CPU blocks. I hope I can drop a 140 or 180 in for the GPU/XFire setup to keep things on the chilly side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> ya I dont know about 16 litres , thats literally the size if a mid case , like grab a haf x and fill it with water and you have 4 gallons lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> delta is the diffrence in temp between coolant and ambient
> I determine my coolant temp by taking my inital idle temps (on a cold boot after being off for ~14hours (my loop has 4 gallons in it) then subtract that off of your idle temps immediatly after 2-3 hours of P95/Haven and there you go.
> I can't use a thicker Rad because that is all I have room for in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> lol @ 4 gallons
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am relatively sure he meant 4 liters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

It is 4 gallons, and actually yes it is a 5 gallon bucket Res out the back of my case







I actually ran out of distilled otherwise it is like 5.5Gal when the loop is completely full.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Again great work GTR, re that last fan hole, I have been using one of these with my dremel for fan holes in plexi http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-678-01-Circle-Cutter-Straight/dp/B000HI5WTY and they work great, well worth it, especially now that your addicted to mods.


Thanks, I actually found my rotorouter the other day and I have the circle cutter for it. I made that fan mounting plate originally for project rainfall and re-purposed it here which is why it's so ragged. It gets covered up by the fan anyways though, so It's not too much of an issue, but I will definitely be cleaning it up at some point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> What is that in the 1st pic above? Fluid level indicator?
> That fan hole still scares me


It's an Aqua Computer Tubemeter. It senses water level and connect via usb pin header to your computer, or in my case, can be used over the Aquabus to interface to my Aquaero 5. I'm using it for a couple things, primarily as an input to control a water pump that re-fills the reservoir when the level gets low. I'm also using it in case the computer can't get water at all, in which case it will throttle the CPU and turn off the pump to the cooler. When the cooler's pump is turned off, all the water that is in the loop drains down to the reservoir and the waterblock loop then has more water to work from.


----------



## Plutonium10

Has anyone mounted a Watercool Heatkiller 79X0 waterblock on a 7950? I ordered an MSI 7950 Twin Frozr but now I'm not sure if it will work. EKWB Cooling configurator says its a reference design but this thread says otherwise.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1281519/watercool-heatkiller-gpu-x-79x0-not-compatible-with-msi-r7950-twin-frozr

The card is back-ordered so I can still cancel my order and get something different.

EDIT: Got a good deal on a reference Sapphire 7970 so disregard my question.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> What bit do you use with this? I assume it wouldnt work with metal?


http://www.dremel.com/en-au/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=561

It says for aluminum Shad, though I haven't tried it with metal myself, will try a test cut in an old case next time I use it, hopefully tomorrow if all goes to plan.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> http://www.dremel.com/en-au/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=561
> It says for aluminum Shad, though I haven't tried it with metal myself, will try a test cut in an old case next time I use it, hopefully tomorrow if all goes to plan.


I have the same kit for my Dremel and would not advise using it on metal. It works great on acrylic, wood and sheetrock. If you use it on metal it chatters real bad and the cutting bit wears out very fast.


----------



## wermad

Rotozip are awesome for spiral cutting.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> What bit do you use with this? I assume it wouldnt work with metal?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.dremel.com/en-au/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=561
> 
> It says for aluminum Shad, though I haven't tried it with metal myself, will try a test cut in an old case next time I use it, hopefully tomorrow if all goes to plan.
Click to expand...

That bit will cut aluminum. We used one of those and a Rotozip to cut the side of an old motorhome. As long as the metal isn't allowed to flex it shouldn't be a problem with the depth of the cutting surface of the bit. I'm not certain about steel but if it's not too thick I don't see why it too cannot be cut.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> I have the same kit for my Dremel and would not advise using it on metal. It works great on acrylic, wood and sheetrock. If you use it on metal it chatters real bad and the cutting bit wears out very fast.


For metal I would use a hole saw, though they can get expensive if you don't already have them, my bad I really should of said that in my response to Shadfox, its 4.25 am here and listening to Irish music and drinking cider, if I don't go to bed I hope to avoid the hangover, know it wont work but what the hell, wife has to work today so if I time it right I'll avoid the worst of her wrath.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> It is 4 gallons, and actually yes it is a 5 gallon bucket Res out the back of my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually ran out of distilled otherwise it is like 5.5Gal when the loop is completely full.


I still don't understand. Why do you need a 5 gallon res????


----------



## simonfredette

yeah unless you put the bucket in the freezer ( bad idea , kiss your freezer goodbye ) your just increasing the chances of getting contaminants in your loop .


----------



## wermad

I think they're running evap-coolers (aka bong-coolers)


----------



## simonfredette

I like the idea of a bong cooler , especially if the bucket is one of those 12V coolers with a fan , 4-5 inch pipe and maybe six foot long is my dream bong , not expensive either just takes up space and I only have one watercooled rig so Id have to dual loop or completely change the routing. One day !!


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> It is 4 gallons, and actually yes it is a 5 gallon bucket Res out the back of my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually ran out of distilled otherwise it is like 5.5Gal when the loop is completely full.
> 
> 
> 
> I still don't understand. Why do you need a 5 gallon res????
Click to expand...

I use a 5 gal res so I can actually turn on my computer when it is hot outsid and if I run my fans then my computer room/office quickly hits 130F and then I can't run it period.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Take a look at my rig guys, you can fully see it in that video. I also show my gaming room. Hope you enjoy









You can set it in 1080p for better resolution

It is Called *Quad damage*


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Take a look at my rig guys, you can fully see it in that video. I also show my gaming room. Hope you enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can set it in 1080p for better resolution
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't want to watch. You have the uncanny ability to make me extremely jealous.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Take a look at my rig guys, you can fully see it in that video. I also show my gaming room. Hope you enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can set it in 1080p for better resolution
> It is Called *Quad damage*


What are you using for the color changing effects?


----------



## rrims

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Take a look at my rig guys, you can fully see it in that video. I also show my gaming room. Hope you enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can set it in 1080p for better resolution
> It is Called *Quad damage*
> - snip -


Your cat is afraid of balloons?? Wut?!


----------



## KaRLiToS

I'm using RGB Leds

"5050 RGB leds Strip 150" (write this on ebay)

The 150 means 150 leds per 5 meters strip, you can go up to 300 leds per 5 meters, it will be my next purchase.

You can use it for many things, I would but my girlfriend don't want that everywhere, she says its better to only have some in the gaming room.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> Your cat is afraid of balloons?? Wut?!


Yes he is. When I was younger, he ate a lot of the speakers wires, and one Temperature sensor. Since then, I'm just preventing, even though, he is now 1 year old and he doesn't eat them anymore, I will remove them soon but he still go in the plant earth and spill some everywhere.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey Guys ive been looking at reservoirs lately for my up coming watercooling build im planning and since i cant use bay reservoirs it limits me to what i can use, well after search threw the watercooling build logs, i found Shadow_Foxx http://www.overclock.net/t/1260996/mod-log-polaris-shadow-foxxs-watercooled-itx-gaming-build and i was really fascinated by the res/pump combo he was using, and was wondering your honest opinion on what you think of it, and if its a solid reservoir setup. (Shadow_Foxx's set up is the white res/pump combo, i plan to do it the same but all black)




























and here it is in black










Thoughts Please..


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Take a look at my rig guys, you can fully see it in that video. I also show my gaming room. Hope you enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can set it in 1080p for better resolution
> It is Called *Quad damage*


must know where you purchased those crossover monitors, must not be located in usa are you?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> must know where you purchased those crossover monitors, must not be located in usa are you?


i have a crossover monitor, you have to order them from Korea (ebay)


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> must know where you purchased those crossover monitors, must not be located in usa are you?


Red-Cap from ebay 2-3 or 4 months ago


----------



## wermad

Are those Catleap? (my work pc blocks youtube







).

Damn, fell asleep and missed the ups guy. No tri-sli this weekend














.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Are those Catleap? (my work pc blocks youtube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> Damn, fell asleep and missed the ups guy. No tri-sli this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


No, they are CrossOver 27Q Led-P monitors


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> No, they are CrossOver 27Q Led-P monitors


Gotcha. Just checked and they are very similar in screen specs except that the Crossover seems to have a better frame construction and its a bit more than the Catleap. Wish I could afford three of them


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Extreme191Pro*
> 
> My Rig :


Nice 90 degree angle!!! Who makes it, and where did you get it from?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Nice 90 degree angle!!! Who makes it, and where did you get it from?


That looks like a Bitspower Crystal L-block


----------



## Blindsay

alright so now that i know these are acrylic
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> hi guys..here some update pic from thebluewavemod set up..opss still under contruction hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stay tuned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The light..
> 
> ..give some comments for more improvement.. TQ


does anyone know a good place in the U.S. to get it?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> alright so now that i know these are acrylic
> does anyone know a good place in the U.S. to get it?


www.mcmaster.com
http://www.usplastic.com/
http://www.estreetplastics.com/
http://www.interstateplastics.com/index.php?vid=201208101845-6p
http://www.eplastics.com/

I made a lot of research about this, and for this kind of work.

You want #2447 Acrylic, (more light transmitting) or #7328 Acrylic
Quote:


> *White #7328* is a solid sheet, but will allow some light through. There are many uses for white #7328. It is an excellent material for applications that need to be back lit, such as back lighted signs or displays.
> 
> *White #2447* will also allow some light through (more than white #7328). White #2447 is often used for applications that need to be back lit, but which need more light to transmit through the material (for example: photo light tables, lighted drawing tables, x-ray chart readers, overhead lights, skylights).


Don't forget to take their thickness into consideration since a ticker white plexi will allow less light. I think #2447 is the best for your need.


----------



## Bouf0010

question for you guys - im just in the process of leak testing a rasa kit with an RS360 in my HTPC rig - if i dont overclock the chip and the pc is only used for videos, movies and music, do you think i could get away with passively cooling the chip??? im really enjoying the silence of no fans

the chip is a 955BE


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> www.mcmaster.com
> http://www.usplastic.com/
> http://www.estreetplastics.com/
> http://www.interstateplastics.com/index.php?vid=201208101845-6p
> http://www.eplastics.com/
> I made a lot of research about this, and for this kind of work.
> You want #2447 Acrylic, (more light transmitting) or #7328 Acrylic
> Don't forget to take their thickness into consideration since a ticker white plexi will allow less light. I think #2447 is the best for your need.


thanks a bunch!


----------



## tezza192

OK here is my effort - first crack at watercooling with a 600t


----------



## SenorRed

^^^ Cleanest water cooled 600T hands down.


----------



## simonfredette

I like the new EK blocks and its cool that you got the back plates also , I didnt like them at first but everytime I see them in a rig I like them more and more , on a new EK blocks page we were discussing them and someone showed an example with the frosted acrylic one also and it looks good . People are making them work and im glad .


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> question for you guys - im just in the process of leak testing a rasa kit with an RS360 in my HTPC rig - if i dont overclock the chip and the pc is only used for videos, movies and music, do you think i could get away with passively cooling the chip??? im really enjoying the silence of no fans
> the chip is a 955BE


I would think you will be fine, but the 955's are great chips,

so even try under-clocking it along with lower the vCore.

That would make it run with an even lower TDP.

Let us know how it works, I might be able to build a HTPC soon, so I am very curious


----------



## phillyd

got my Corsair fans











check out the switchbox in my sig


----------



## tezza192

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I like the new EK blocks and its cool that you got the back plates also , I didnt like them at first but everytime I see them in a rig I like them more and more , on a new EK blocks page we were discussing them and someone showed an example with the frosted acrylic one also and it looks good . People are making them work and im glad .


I wasnt sure at first but when you get them in your hands they are a real quality product, they have weight behind them and the finish on the blocks is really sweet. Im really happy with the look...


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey Guys ive been looking at reservoirs lately for my up coming watercooling build im planning and since i cant use bay reservoirs it limits me to what i can use, well after search threw the watercooling build logs, i found Shadow_Foxx http://www.overclock.net/t/1260996/mod-log-polaris-shadow-foxxs-watercooled-itx-gaming-build and i was really fascinated by the res/pump combo he was using, and was wondering your honest opinion on what you think of it, and if its a solid reservoir setup. (Shadow_Foxx's set up is the white res/pump combo, i plan to do it the same but all black)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here it is in black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts Please..






This setup looks awesome. I love the look of all that white hardware








Cant wait to see it all put together!


----------



## wermad

I'm lucky eplastics.com is 10 minutes from my home







I buy scrap pieces of acylic for a few dollars. I bought a few sheets of 1/8" clear to make some windows for $3







.

You have to buy the large sheets and they charge to cut them. I would recommend try ebay; there's a lot of sellers who sell sheets in precut. Pricing is decent but unless you're willing to spend a couple hundred for a few sheet or two, I would just try ebay..


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Take a look at my rig guys, you can fully see it in that video. I also show my gaming room. Hope you enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can set it in 1080p for better resolution
> It is Called *WALLET damage*
> -snip-


Bad*** rig.....I really want two more Crossover's now









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> must know where you purchased those crossover monitors, must not be located in usa are you?


I bought my Crossover from eBay...think the seller was dcsamsungmall, arrived in perfect condition.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tezza192*
> 
> OK here is my effort - first crack at watercooling with a 600t
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So clean, looking great. I'm seeing more and more people use a 200mm rad up front, awesome


----------



## mironccr345

I've seen the CrossOver monitors for 349.00 shipped on eBay! Wish I can scoop some up!

Here it is! With one year warranty!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I've seen the CrossOver monitors for 349.00 shipped on eBay! Wish I can scoop some up!
> Here it is! With one year warranty!


So tempted, but I already invested in three asus 22 inchers







. It was half of what I would have spent on three CrossOver or Catleaps







. Works good so I'll stick with that for now.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Bad*** rig.....I really want two more Crossover's now


It sure is a Wallet damage too, hahahaha. I laugh a lot when I saw your quote.








But This Loops have been up in this rig for the past 3 Years (excepts for the waterblocks). It is the 5th revision of this Obsidian Case and probably one of the last revision, that is SUPPOSE to last for the next two years like I told my girlfriend (yeah right)


----------



## StiticX

Heya all you water cooling guy's and lady's. What do you think of my setup?


----------



## Qu1ckset

I got my crossover shipped for $350 from redcap, paid $20 in duty at my door, and the monitor was perfect with zero dead/stuck pixels and no back light bleed


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StiticX*
> 
> Heya all you water cooling guy's and lady's. What do you think of my setup?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics


I like the sparkle ,couldnt figure out what graphics card that was, then I saw the backplate, I cant figure out if the tubing is sparkly or if its the coolant . Looks nice though !


----------



## Qu1ckset

which pump top do you guys like better?








or









secondly can you guys tell me the difference between these to ek pump tops?
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-d5-x-top-csq.html and http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ddc-series/ek-ddc-x-top-csq.html


----------



## simonfredette

you mean other than the obvious placement of the inlet outlet ?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> which pump top do you guys like better?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> secondly can you guys tell me the difference between these to ek pump tops?
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-d5-x-top-csq.html and http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ddc-series/ek-ddc-x-top-csq.html


I prefer the new CSQ look much better (with the cricles)

The difference between both tops you linked is for different type of pumps. One is for Laing D5, and the other is for Laing DDC.

*Laing D5 (MCP 655)*



*Laing DCC (MCP35x)*


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> you mean other than the obvious placement of the inlet outlet ?


Nvm


----------



## simonfredette

karlitos was right anyways , I was just being a you know what.. its been one of those days when the wife totals her car and the people at work convince you to eat a 1.5lbs burger and you feel like junk!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Read the tops, both are for D5. No DDC top there fellas.









I have no idea why the link suggests it's DDC when clearly it's not.









Nevermind.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Read the tops, both are for D5. No DDC top there fellas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So what's the difference then?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Read the tops, both are for D5. No DDC top there fellas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the difference then?
Click to expand...

Well had you grabbed the correct linky, there is ZERO difference...

other than those butt fugly circles on one and the other being the classic EK top.









You didn't grab the correct link so as Karlitos said one is D5 and the other is DDC.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well had you grabbed the correct linky, there is ZERO difference...
> other than those butt fugly circles on one and the other being the classic EK top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You didn't grab the correct link so as Karlitos said one is D5 and the other is DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lol the pictures and the link were two different questions hahaha
I was asking which pump top looked better between the two pics.

The two links I was asking what's the difference between the two


----------



## wermad

Very nice looking ddc tops:


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice looking ddc tops:
> -snip-
> 
> -snip-


This one.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> This one.




same one, just no led lighting effects









I find the HK one the best imho


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

I like
my simple black one


----------



## StiticX

It's just the lighting.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> I like
> my simple black one
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mine's is better...



Of course I expect EK to frack it all up with the stupid bubbles but this is a much better top imho.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

EK-VGA Supremacy

http://www.ekwb.com/news/246/19/EK-VGA-Supremacy-in-production/


----------



## tuffarts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> EK-VGA Supremacy
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/246/19/EK-VGA-Supremacy-in-production/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I hope to see a bridge version


----------



## Willhemmens

Updates on "Mayhem master".

Still waiting on loads of stuff but I've got the watercooling in!










This isn't the final coolant colour, bright Green Aurora will be going in nearer the event this build is being built for.

I'm also tempted to get some Anfi-tec mosfet blocks unless anyone know anything that will fit the Sabertooth Z77.

You can keep up with the build here: Cosmos II i46 LAN Build "Mayhem Master" - Will be complete by 23rd Aug - Running/testing


----------



## Qu1ckset

Um i think im going to stick with the all black pump top to go with my build, even tho some of those listed looks nice.

I need some feed back from you guys, i did some measurements and realized i can fit the 360 hardware labs extreme in the place i was planning on putting the 360 stealth, but the thing is if i put the extreme the fans will me really visible in my side window, so i was wondering if you guys can tell me if i should stick to the stealth based on looks.

First pic is the area where im putting the 360 rad, and the second pic shows how much of the fans will be showing, the orange is how much fans will be showing with the 360 stealth and the red indicates how much fan you would see with the extreme.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> EK-VGA Supremacy
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/246/19/EK-VGA-Supremacy-in-production/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












~Ceadder


----------



## fa5terba11

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



IMG_7904.JPG



I like how clean you tubing runs are! Looks great!!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> EK-VGA Supremacy
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/246/19/EK-VGA-Supremacy-in-production/


what about the VRMs??


----------



## Egameman

Is it OK to mix EK copper block with EK nickel block ?

The 680 nickel block is sold out in my country...so thiking of buying the std. acetal version.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> what about the VRMs??


Just like all universal GPU blocks you'll need to use sinks + a bit of air flow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Is it OK to mix EK copper block with EK nickel block ?
> The 680 nickel block is sold out in my country...so thiking of buying the std. acetal version.


For most part yes. Nickel and copper together are fine.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Is it OK to mix EK copper block with EK nickel block ?
> 
> The 680 nickel block is sold out in my country...so thiking of buying the std. acetal version.


Yes, Nickel and Copper is fine. Just avoid Aluminum


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Um i think im going to stick with the all black pump top to go with my build, even tho some of those listed looks nice.
> I need some feed back from you guys, i did some measurements and realized i can fit the 360 hardware labs extreme in the place i was planning on putting the 360 stealth, but the thing is if i put the extreme the fans will me really visible in my side window, so i was wondering if you guys can tell me if i should stick to the stealth based on looks.
> First pic is the area where im putting the 360 rad, and the second pic shows how much of the fans will be showing, the orange is how much fans will be showing with the 360 stealth and the red indicates how much fan you would see with the extreme.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really, that is is personal preference. Me...I would rather have the extra cooling and I don't care if the fans are showing. You could always put something up between the window and the fans to prevent people from seeing them.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Really, that is is personal preference. Me...I would rather have the extra cooling and I don't care if the fans are showing. You could always put something up between the window and the fans to prevent people from seeing them.


Hmm im thinking i might just stick with the stealth, will i notices a big improvement if i switch to the fat style?


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I should have taken the multiport version instead of the normal one...


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have this rad and it is EPIC! So may ways you can configure your loop.


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just like all universal GPU blocks you'll need to use sinks + a bit of air flow.
> For most part yes. Nickel and copper together are fine.






thanks


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StiticX*
> 
> It's just the lighting.


im confused on your loop order - how do you have it set up?


----------



## rrims

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> im confused on your loop order - how do you have it set up?


It looks like Res - Pump - Rad - Cpu


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StiticX*
> 
> It's just the lighting.


I thought you were not supposed to run that type of pump upside down like that!?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those fans are smexy. What kind are they?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hmm im thinking i might just stick with the stealth, will i notices a big improvement if i switch to the fat style?


Depends on what will be under water. CPU only you wont notice much difference. CPU + 1 GPU I'd say 3-5c depending on the heat output of the gpu and the fans you use.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Honestly guys im having a hard time choosing which cpu block to go with, i was liking the all black EK-Supreme HF but know one carrys it anymore, and there new EK-Supremacy block are not doing it for me... Is the Swiftech APOGEE HD a good block because thats the only one im really right now...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Honestly guys im having a hard time choosing which cpu block to go with, i was liking the all black EK-Supreme HF but know one carrys it anymore, and there new EK-Supremacy block are not doing it for me... Is the Swiftech APOGEE HD a good block because thats the only one im really right now...


Its great block. Its better than the Raystorm (slightly). Keep searching for the Supreme HF. When I sold my old one, it went in one day. A lot of ppl are not too thrilled with the looks of the new block and word is that it doesn't perform as well as the old one (not 100% sure on this). Other than that, the Raystorm is still a very solid choice.

At the HD and Raystorm price range, there's the Alphacool xp^3 and the Phobya UC-1 (I think they're the same).

for a little more, check out the koolance cpu 370, BP Summit EF, Danger Den DD-M6, Ybris Black Sun, & Aquacomputer Kryos HF.

I do recommend the HK 3.0 but don't buy it new. Its a solid performer but I really don't think its worth ~$85. You have some impressive choices at this price range. I've seen a few pre-own on ebay that sell for ~$50.

edit: here's a guy on ebay selling an HF with the nickel and the white acetal top:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EK-Supreme-HF-White-Plexi-Full-Nickel-EN-/271016002217?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item3f19d002a9

I would haggle a bit on the price. I'd say ~$65-70 since he's including both tops.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Honestly guys im having a hard time choosing which cpu block to go with, i was liking the all black EK-Supreme HF but know one carrys it anymore, and there new EK-Supremacy block are not doing it for me... Is the Swiftech APOGEE HD a good block because thats the only one im really right now...
> 
> 
> 
> Its great block. Its better than the Raystorm (slightly). Keep searching for the Supreme HF. When I sold my old one, it went in one day. A lot of ppl are not too thrilled with the looks of the new block and word is that it doesn't perform as well as the old one (not 100% sure on this). Other than that, the Raystorm is still a very solid choice.
> 
> At the HD and Raystorm price range, there's the Alphacool xp^3 and the Phobya UC-1 (I think they're the same).
> 
> for a little more, check out the koolance cpu 370, BP Summit EF, Danger Den DD-M6, Ybris Black Sun, & Aquacomputer Kryos HF.
> 
> I do recommend the HK 3.0 but don't buy it new. Its a solid performer but I really don't think its worth ~$85. You have some impressive choices at this price range. I've seen a few pre-own on ebay that sell for ~$50.
> 
> edit: here's a guy on ebay selling an HF with the nickel and the white acetal top:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/EK-Supreme-HF-White-Plexi-Full-Nickel-EN-/271016002217?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item3f19d002a9
> 
> I would haggle a bit on the price. I'd say ~$65-70 since he's including both tops.
Click to expand...

I approve this message. Although I would suggest holding off and waiting til the fanbois have to replace their current EK Block to get the Supremacy. If anything most coolers want their shiz to match so there'll be someone who wishes to fund their replacement block at the expense of their old one. That's how I would do it if I liked the Bullcraptastic CSQ blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I thought you were not supposed to run that type of pump upside down like that!?


thats what i thought too! thats why i was asking what the order of the loop was lol


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> thats what i thought too! thats why i was asking what the order of the loop was lol


im surprised that even works , the line is going up towards the the pump inlet , not to mention that the res isnt completely full so there isnt a ton of pressure forcing the water up into it . I mean if it works it works but odds are the pump is working harder and wont last as long..


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I approve this message. Although I would suggest holding off and waiting til the fanbois have to replace their current EK Block to get the Supremacy. If anything most coolers want their shiz to match so there'll be someone who wishes to fund their replacement block at the expense of their old one. That's how I would do it if I liked the Bullcraptastic CSQ blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its great block. Its better than the Raystorm (slightly). Keep searching for the Supreme HF. When I sold my old one, it went in one day. A lot of ppl are not too thrilled with the looks of the new block and word is that it doesn't perform as well as the old one (not 100% sure on this). Other than that, the Raystorm is still a very solid choice.
> At the HD and Raystorm price range, there's the Alphacool xp^3 and the Phobya UC-1 (I think they're the same).
> for a little more, check out the koolance cpu 370, BP Summit EF, Danger Den DD-M6, Ybris Black Sun, & Aquacomputer Kryos HF.
> I do recommend the HK 3.0 but don't buy it new. Its a solid performer but I really don't think its worth ~$85. You have some impressive choices at this price range. I've seen a few pre-own on ebay that sell for ~$50.
> edit: here's a guy on ebay selling an HF with the nickel and the white acetal top:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/EK-Supreme-HF-White-Plexi-Full-Nickel-EN-/271016002217?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item3f19d002a9
> I would haggle a bit on the price. I'd say ~$65-70 since he's including both tops.


not liking the raystorm , hate the hk blocks, and i need a all black block for my build so the surpreme HF you linked and the one for sale on ocn are no good to me...
most those other blocks im not to fond of, i went threw all of the blocks on performance-pc and frozencpu... but i do like the Swiftech APOGEE HD, is there a reason why you recommended all those other blocks over the swiftech one?


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> im surprised that even works , the line is going up towards the the pump inlet , not to mention that the r*es isnt completely full so there isnt a ton of pressure forcing the water up into it* . I mean if it works it works but odds are the pump is working harder and wont last as long..


FYI, the res doesn't create pressure - only the pump can do that, and so long as the intake remains submerged, it makes little difference. So long as you're not cavitating, you're good to go.
The only question that should be asked is what kind of bearings are in the pump? as we know with case fans, certain types (sleeve / rifle) don't like being vertical (the bearing, not the fan).


----------



## morencyam

Did you look at the XSPC Rasa? That's a simple, all black block that is still has solid performance


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> not liking the raystorm , hate the hk blocks, and i need a all black block for my build so the surpreme HF you linked and the one for sale on ocn are no good to me...
> most those other blocks im not to fond of, i went threw all of the blocks on performance-pc and frozencpu... but i do like the Swiftech APOGEE HD, is there a reason why you recommended all those other blocks over the swiftech one?


Looks like you're more concernef with looks than performance. The more expensive ones use more and/or better materials. If you have mind set to the Supreme hf, you can always buy the acetal top. A few stores have them or you can get it from ek. Personally, you're looking for a eol product, you have many more and bettet options. Your choice and crusade mate


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> FYI, the res doesn't create pressure - only the pump can do that, and so long as the intake remains submerged, it makes little difference. So long as you're not cavitating, you're good to go.
> The only question that should be asked is what kind of bearings are in the pump? as we know with case fans, certain types (sleeve / rifle) don't like being vertical (the bearing, not the fan).


pressure was kind of a way to simplify what I meant , its the same as on planes or even the brakes in your car , if you have air its spongy ( obviously thats pushing on a piston , ) but if you had a completely full system with no air at all it would work like a hydraulic piston , the pump would push the water and since there is no space for the water to go it also pushes water out of the way , its kind of double acting .. Wont make a big difference since like you said as long as the inlet is submerged the pump should move the amount of water its rater for but having it completely full means the water is forced into the inlet instead of gravity feeding .. Just easier on the pump.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like you're more concernef with looks than performance. The more expensive ones use more and/or better materials. If you have mind set to the Supreme hf, you can always buy the acetal top. A few stores have them or you can get it from ek. Personally, you're looking for a eol product, you have many more and bettet options. Your choice and crusade mate


lol im concerned with both looks and performance, and i understand the supreme hf is eol thats why ek is pushing there newer uglier blocks, but my one question about the Swiftech APOGEE HD, is that good or i should pick something else ??


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> lol im concerned with both looks and performance, and i understand the supreme hf is eol thats why ek is pushing there newer uglier blocks, but my one question about the Swiftech APOGEE HD, is that good or i should pick something else ??


There's a review here

Looks like a good block to me


----------



## wermad

HD is a great choice. If you're looking for looks and performance, check out the Kryos HF silver (~$300)


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> HD is a great choice. If you're looking for looks and performance, check out the Kryos HF silver (~$300)


Right...there's only a handful of people that would buy that thing


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> There's a review here
> Looks like a good block to me


seems decent, on my hunt for cpu blocks i found the dt sniper, any word on it if its any good, ive done a quick search havent found much on it


----------



## MrGrievous

I wonder if one was to buy a ek supremacy block and bought a EK supreme HF top if it would fit on it or noy


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I wonder if one was to buy a ek supremacy block and bought a EK supreme HF top if it would fit on it or noy


It would not fit.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> seems decent, on my hunt for cpu blocks i found the dt sniper, any word on it if its any good, ive done a quick search havent found much on it


Keep you eye on this...tests are not complete yet but you will have your results when they do.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I wonder if one was to buy a ek supremacy block and bought a EK supreme HF top if it would fit on it or noy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would not fit.
Click to expand...

Yeahup, highly unlikely. I've yet to hear of anyone trying it tho. I do know that you couldn't swap HF Supreme v1 to v2 or vice versa. So I expect that there is no joy in EK land in this regard since we know the Supremacy isn't a solid performer.

Makes one wonder where Eddy got off calling that PoS block "Supremacy".









~Ceadder


----------



## shredded

Hey guys, here are pictures of my first ever build. I'm new to a lot of this, so i hope i did alright.









Work in progress








All together and running (Prime 95 stable after 25 or so hours)
















One problem i have encounter... damn it.








Side on!

Hope its alright


----------



## rrims

It looks good for a first build man, congrats.









But I just have two questions/suggestions.

1. Why a 5770?

2. If I were you, I would tuck the lines for the H100 behind the power connector for your 5770.


----------



## shredded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> It looks good for a first build man, congrats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I just have two questions/suggestions.
> 1. Why a 5770?
> 2. If I were you, I would tuck the lines for the H100 behind the power connector for your 5770.


Cheers.
5770 because it was the card out of my last computer. I don't have the money for a new card yet. I'll get one soon, i hope, the longer i wait, the more prices can drop i guess.

Cheers for the advice, ill get round to it later!


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredded*
> 
> Cheers.
> 5770 because it was the card out of my last computer. I don't have the money for a new card yet. I'll get one soon, i hope, the longer i wait, the more prices can drop i guess.
> Cheers for the advice, ill get round to it later!


It looks really cool , someone told me that the fans on ram were kinda overrated , I doubt that and I mean it adds more airflow on the mobo and if nothing else having a set on each side makes it look sick. I had an H100 before and loved it but it pushed me right into watercoolings arms! See if you can go push pull on the rad one day , if the space is there !! Looks really cool man!

ps. theres a corsair hydroseries club on here too, discuss a lot of fan choices and stuff , if your interested give it a look ! its here


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Keep you eye on this...tests are not complete yet but you will have your results when they do.


I have it and really just turned on system today ..I dont have anything to compare to, but works for me and looks great. This build is far from completion.




Intial test..nothing special


----------



## shredded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> It looks really cool , someone told me that the fans on ram were kinda overrated , I doubt that and I mean it adds more airflow on the mobo and if nothing else having a set on each side makes it look sick. I had an H100 before and loved it but it pushed me right into watercoolings arms! See if you can go push pull on the rad one day , if the space is there !! Looks really cool man!
> ps. theres a corsair hydroseries club on here too, discuss a lot of fan choices and stuff , if your interested give it a look ! its here


Yeah, the ram coolers where only 15 bucks ish a pop. Makes it look pretty cool, and it gives extra cooling to all the heatsinks around the cpu.

Cheers for the link to the club. I might go Push pull, if it wasn't for my clearance issues.


----------



## simonfredette

yeah I saw the clearance with psu cables , thats too bad , and 15 $ for extra cooling and all the lighting you really need is a good deal!


----------



## Ceadderman

I would move that H100 Radiator up. Specifically due to there IS air in the system. Air in the system that could be trapped in the Pump or at the topside of the Radiator where it impedes flow in and out of the Radiator. Mounting it up top with the hoses facing down, the air(any air) would get trapped on the back side of the Radiator and away from the tubing allowing for better temps and less wear on the pump.









~Ceadder


----------



## StiticX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I thought you were not supposed to run that type of pump upside down like that!?


That's why I wanted to see what you all think how this setup is. Its been running like this without and problems for almost a year. I just ran the loop like this as the 1200 isn't very water loop friendly, unless its mounted outside the case.

The loop goes as followed: res, pump, rad, block, back to the res.

The bearings are the ones that it came with the pump when I bought the kit.


----------



## shredded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would move that H100 Radiator up. Specifically due to there IS air in the system. Air in the system that could be trapped in the Pump or at the topside of the Radiator where it impedes flow in and out of the Radiator. Mounting it up top with the hoses facing down, the air(any air) would get trapped on the back side of the Radiator and away from the tubing allowing for better temps and less wear on the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i was thinking about it, but i JUST finished everything the other week. It might be something ill do when i get a new graphics card. If i put it up top, ill need to worry about clearance from the top of the motherboard. I also want to keep the top of the case on, as it keeps it looking neat, and i can fit 2x140 fans as opposed to the rads 2x120. A lot of stuff I am putting thought into, when i probably dont need to, as i am not overclocking (yet) and my temps are fine (About 32*C core temp and 20ish ambient room temp - low loads)


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I have it and really just turned on system today ..I dont have anything to compare to, but works for me and looks great. This build is far from completion.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intial test..nothing special


Looks really, I'm liking the block but might wait for the reviews to come out, if I do get it I plan on some custom engraving!


----------



## Reglar

Anyone any experience taking the top off the Danger Den reservoir? I took out the 8 screws and was hoping to take off the top so I could put an anti-cyclone fitting in, but the top just isn't budging. Is the top and gasket glued on, or am I just not applying enough force?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I have it and really just turned on system today ..I dont have anything to compare to, but works for me and looks great. This build is far from completion.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intial test..nothing special


I like your setup. Your cable management is top notch!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Thiefofspades

That is huge!


----------



## bundymania

Yeah....and do you guys remember the TFC Feser Monsta for 199 $ ? This one is just ~ 120 $ !


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

WHAT.

Wow.
Just wow.


----------



## Indulgence

just sharing. already a year old. that was fast.




































good day everyone.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> There's a review here
> Looks like a good block to me


Dang, I ain't getting anywhere near those kind of temps with my 3960X at 5GHz / 1.505V...


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah....and do you guys remember the TFC Feser Monsta for 199 $ ? This one is just ~ 120 $ !


How is the performance in comparison with the TFC though? How thick is is the alphacool? Same size basically?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> just sharing. already a year old. that was fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good day everyone.


Nice rig bud: looks really clean, I like the bottom divider.


----------



## Indulgence

^

thank you sir


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Dang, I ain't getting anywhere near those kind of temps with my 3960X at 5GHz / 1.505V...


SB-E is a bit hotter than SB. Nothing dramatic, but bigger chip, a little bit more heat


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Collection grows


----------



## tuffarts

^^I got one of these in the mail as we speak


----------



## _AKIMbO_

My cat has taken a liking to the hot air escaping out of my 360 rad in the top of my case. She crashed my PC last night in the middle of a heated L4D2 game. The PC BSOD, presumably from overheating, before I noticed her. She must have been napping there for a good two hours. None of the air the rad fans were pushing was escaping from the case.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That will be my next upgrade








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> just sharing. already a year old. that was fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good day everyone.


Very clean build...wire management is top notch!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*
> 
> My cat has taken a liking to the hot air escaping out of my 360 rad in the top of my case. She crashed my PC last night in the middle of a heated L4D2 game. The PC BSOD, presumably from overheating, before I noticed her. She must have been napping there for a good two hours. None of the air the rad fans were pushing was escaping from the case.


Kitteh wuvs you though. You built her a helluva snoozing perch.









Makes me glad I don't have my system over here. I know 3 cats that would be fighting over it.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys im getting a headache trying to think about how im going to power/control all my fans when i build my setup.. worst case is i will just run them at full power 24/7 but i was curious at was controllers i could use, i would have one 5.25 expansion bay available, but i think i might want the clean look of nothing in the bays if i can get away with it.

i was wondering if you guts could recommend me some good controllers internal ones, boards i can hide behind my motherboard (thats where my hard drives are so theres a decent amount of space back there) or lastly i guess single bay 5.25 drives.

side question i came accross the Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 LT USB and was liking its features not sure if i want to get into all that yet but thinking about, how is this supposed to be mounted?

**Edit**
forgot to mention its 7fans that i need to control


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*
> 
> My cat has taken a liking to the hot air escaping out of my 360 rad in the top of my case. She crashed my PC last night in the middle of a heated L4D2 game. The PC BSOD, presumably from overheating, before I noticed her. She must have been napping there for a good two hours. None of the air the rad fans were pushing was escaping from the case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




That is so awesome.


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah the cat thing happened with mine laying on top of my switch 810 , problem is the slits for airflow are pretty big and his hair got caught in a fan , he yelled and I lost a fan !!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys im getting a headache trying to think about how im going to power/control all my fans when i build my setup.. worst case is i will just run them at full power 24/7 but i was curious at was controllers i could use, i would have one 5.25 expansion bay available, but i think i might want the clean look of nothing in the bays if i can get away with it.
> i was wondering if you guts could recommend me some good controllers internal ones, boards i can hide behind my motherboard (thats where my hard drives are so theres a decent amount of space back there) or lastly i guess single bay 5.25 drives.
> side question i came accross the Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 LT USB and was liking its features not sure if i want to get into all that yet but thinking about, how is this supposed to be mounted?
> **Edit**
> forgot to mention its 7fans that i need to control


The Lampton Fan Controller Touch is really nice looking that would probably keep the front looking clean how you want. It only has 6 channels though, but it's 30W per channel so you can easily run multiple fans off one channel.
If you're really trying to keep the 5.25" bays clear, the Bitspower Power Extension has multiple fan headers with different voltages if you don't want to run all the fans at full speed


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I like your setup. Your cable management is top notch!


You should see the back side. Lol..another month and should be all Buttoned up..


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Should have my full build log up soon. I hope all you guys in the w/c club check it out!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Should have my full build log up soon. I hope all you guys in the w/c club check it out!


I'm definitely not going to look at it








I've always like TJ builds. I was heavily contemplating a TJ07 when I built my watercooled rig, but I got too good of a deal on my 700D to pass that up. And from the little teasers you've posted so far, it looks like an amazing build


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Take a look at my rig guys, you can fully see it in that video. I also show my gaming room. Hope you enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can set it in 1080p for better resolution
> It is Called *Quad damage*


ohh dear god.. there is a heaven, is this guy´s room...


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys im getting a headache trying to think about how im going to power/control all my fans when i build my setup.. worst case is i will just run them at full power 24/7 but i was curious at was controllers i could use, i would have one 5.25 expansion bay available, but i think i might want the clean look of nothing in the bays if i can get away with it.
> i was wondering if you guts could recommend me some good controllers internal ones, boards i can hide behind my motherboard (thats where my hard drives are so theres a decent amount of space back there) or lastly i guess single bay 5.25 drives.
> side question i came accross the Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 LT USB and was liking its features not sure if i want to get into all that yet but thinking about, how is this supposed to be mounted?
> **Edit**
> forgot to mention its 7fans that i need to control


http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_lxe

theres that option if you wouldn't mind the controller to be external. I think it's a pretty cool product but I'd rather it in the drive bay which they offer as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys im getting a headache trying to think about how im going to power/control all my fans when i build my setup.. worst case is i will just run them at full power 24/7 but i was curious at was controllers i could use, i would have one 5.25 expansion bay available, but i think i might want the clean look of nothing in the bays if i can get away with it.
> i was wondering if you guts could recommend me some good controllers internal ones, boards i can hide behind my motherboard (thats where my hard drives are so theres a decent amount of space back there) or lastly i guess single bay 5.25 drives.
> side question i came accross the Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 LT USB and was liking its features not sure if i want to get into all that yet but thinking about, how is this supposed to be mounted?
> **Edit**
> forgot to mention its 7fans that i need to control
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_lxe
> 
> theres that option if you wouldn't mind the controller to be external. I think it's a pretty cool product but I'd rather it in the drive bay which they offer as well.
Click to expand...

Sunbeam RheoSmart 3 would easily control 7 fans. Up to 30w per Channel. 4 fans per channel or more depending on the actual wattage per fan and not so expensive that it makes you weep later when balancing your checkbook. Also they have heatsinks on their PCB to keep them from overheating.









~Ceadder


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*
> 
> My cat has taken a liking to the hot air escaping out of my 360 rad in the top of my case. She crashed my PC last night in the middle of a heated L4D2 game. The PC BSOD, presumably from overheating, before I noticed her. She must have been napping there for a good two hours. None of the air the rad fans were pushing was escaping from the case.


I can see it now:

NEW Product from Scythe: *Ninja Spikes*

Help improve your airflow by installing these nickle plated ninja spikes on all of your fan grilles. Set of 16. Available in blood red only.


----------



## superericla

Dwood's test benches are officially on sale now.









I helped come up with the slide over cover idea...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys im getting a headache trying to think about how im going to power/control all my fans when i build my setup.. worst case is i will just run them at full power 24/7 but i was curious at was controllers i could use, i would have one 5.25 expansion bay available, but i think i might want the clean look of nothing in the bays if i can get away with it.
> i was wondering if you guts could recommend me some good controllers internal ones, boards i can hide behind my motherboard (thats where my hard drives are so theres a decent amount of space back there) or lastly i guess single bay 5.25 drives.
> side question i came accross the Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 LT USB and was liking its features not sure if i want to get into all that yet but thinking about, how is this supposed to be mounted?
> **Edit**
> forgot to mention its 7fans that i need to control


Avoid Nzxt, they look nice but the have a lot of issues. Most notably, the buzzing issue when you hook up your fans. If you want a good solid controller, look for original Lamptrons (not the knock-offs G-Vans), but they are becoming more difficult to find. The Sunbeam is still a solid choice too.


----------



## phillyd

The Sentry Mix is the only one that has buzzing issues, I know they buzz with Corsair Air fans, and I dont remember any other issues. IIRC the Senty Mesh, LX and LXE all work fine with all fans.
I got a faulty G-Vans FC09 but it was before they took over manufacturing. Lamptron are usually very good.


----------



## Qu1ckset

any word on if those new Bitfenix Recon 5 controllers are any good?


----------



## Haze_hellivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> ohh dear god.. there is a heaven, is this guy´s room...


Sitting that close to the monitors will make him blind.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sunbeam RheoSmart 3 would easily control 7 fans. Up to 30w per Channel. 4 fans per channel or more depending on the actual wattage per fan and not so expensive that it makes you weep later when balancing your checkbook. Also they have heatsinks on their PCB to keep them from overheating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I actually had the Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller on my last build, solid controller, got the job done, just looking at what else is on the market


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I recommend Lamptron,FC 5s are a sweet little FC,I have run a few different fans on them..my bench has a D5 on one channel and runs flat out with no issues so the power they quote (30w per channel) is there. I have noticed that Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm fans tick at low speed but that is a characteristic of the fan rather than the controllers
Its over a year old now and been in 3 builds.

Or try a mCubed Big NG controller,they do the business too,however, it's software controlled.


----------



## simonfredette

its good that were on the subject because I do use an nzxt fan controller and it does buzz with certain fans and always if I have more than 3 plugged in , which sucks because its 5 channel ..


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> any word on if those new Bitfenix Recon 5 controllers are any good?


I have the Recon in my build and it works great..........via the software. I can't seem to get the touch screen to work though. I can set a speed all I want but when I click to set it just goes back to full speed. With the software I can turn the fans to max or off and that's it. I took a chance on it because it was relatively inexpensive but I think I'm going to get a Lamptron FC5 to replace it...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I have the Recon in my build and it works great..........via the software. I can't seem to get the touch screen to work though. I can set a speed all I want but when I click to set it just goes back to full speed. With the software I can turn the fans to max or off and that's it. I took a chance on it because it was relatively inexpensive but I think I'm going to get a Lamptron FC5 to replace it...


Hey man it seems there a slight delay before it drops the speed down if you watch this video and skip to 3:30, you can see how it works http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8Nw2EyMVJs&feature=related

What fans are you using? and so you can only turn the fans on and off via software your saying?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm using Noiseblocker Pro PK-3's and PL-2's...


----------



## mordocai rp

i've had this for a while now, but just got around to taking pictures of it. Watercooled ft02 is a beast, i had an external rad and pump and am just now moving it internally, so thats why there's no tubing


----------



## lowfat

One step closer.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> One step closer.


whats mobo and cpu's are those?


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> One step closer.


what od tubing is that? I know its sleeved and love the looks of it


----------



## canada2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> whats mobo and cpu's are those?


Asus Z9PE-D8 WS. Its a workstation board.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> whats mobo and cpu's are those?


Like canada2005 said, it is an Asus Z9PE-D8 WS. The CPU's are 2.4GHz 8-core Sandy Bridge-EP ESs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> what od tubing is that? I know its sleeved and love the looks of it


⅜" ID ½" OD. I like using small tubing.


----------



## simonfredette

I live smaller tubing also , mine is 3/8 ID 5/8 OD . Just a little bit thicker tubing but I find it looks clean , I still have to shorted my tubing for sure but I def. like the size .


----------



## MrGrievous

ya I had a look at the two blocks and could tell from a glance cause of the screws that it would be a no go would be awesome if they did though


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey is the Scythe Master 2 any good??, apparently they fixed all the problems with previous controllers..


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Very clean build...wire management is top notch!


thank you sir


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> One step closer.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

I have a couple of questions. I am ordering the last of my parts which is going to be a fan controller, fans and some misc cables.

First. I have seen some people run 2 pure silver kill coils and i am wondering is there any real advantage to doing this or is there a certain amount of water ratio that has to be taken into account? I plan on running a 420mm rad along with a Bitspower tank-z multi 150mm res. i should add that the room that my computer is in has a lot of windows and the room gets a lot of light.

Second. My Tank-Z 150 multi res. - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9575/ex-res-156/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM150P-BK.html#blank

The instructions are not really clear about what 2 parts inside the res do but I know it has something to do with the anti-cyclone. The 2 parts in question inside is the long metal tube and the small G1/4" stop fitting with 3 holes drilled into the side. The question is how do I set this system up correctly? I plan to have the end with the single hole at the bottom which will feed my pump while the end with 3 holes will be at the top with one port being used for the return.


----------



## netdevil

Let me answer your second question since I have one of those res.

The " small G1/4" stop fitting with 3 holes drilled into the side ' is meant for your intake to your pump and the 'long metal tube ' is meant for the water going into the reservoir. What this does is instead of water splashing down into your reservoir when it is not fully filled, it just goes straight under the water level.

Hope you understand my explanation.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> I have a couple of questions. I am ordering the last of my parts which is going to be a fan controller, fans and some misc cables.
> First. I have seen some people run 2 pure silver kill coils and i am wondering is there any real advantage to doing this or is there a certain amount of water ratio that has to be taken into account? I plan on running a 420mm rad along with a Bitspower tank-z multi 150mm res. i should add that the room that my computer is in has a lot of windows and the room gets a lot of light.
> Second. My Tank-Z 150 multi res. - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9575/ex-res-156/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM150P-BK.html#blank
> The instructions are not really clear about what 2 parts inside the res do but I know it has something to do with the anti-cyclone. The 2 parts in question inside is the long metal tube and the small G1/4" stop fitting with 3 holes drilled into the side. The question is how do I set this system up correctly? I plan to have the end with the single hole at the bottom which will feed my pump while the end with 3 holes will be at the top with one port being used for the return.


I normally use about 1 per liter of water.

I ditch that little fitting,its very restrictive.
I use the jet nozzle on the inlet to the res, This forces air to the top of the res when bleeding and stops suck back into the pump inlet or allows the res to have a top return feed.
This works by lowering the inlet to below the waterline in the res,splashing water introduces air in to your fluid which is undesirable.

This how i set one of them up



My bench has one set up horizontally the same way



You made the right choice with that res...


----------



## Alsisgevat

This thread has some very awesome looking rigs!! I have finnaly finished my first watercooling build,I changed the motherboard a while back,and added a cpu loop to my allready gpu loop,anyway here is my first go at watercooling:

Side%20Full%20view1.jpg 804k .jpg file


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alsisgevat*
> 
> This thread has some very awesome looking rigs!! I have finnaly finished my first watercooling build,I changed the motherboard a while back,and added a cpu loop to my allready gpu loop,anyway here is my first go at watercooling:
> 
> Side%20Full%20view1.jpg 804k .jpg file


Post the pic, not an attachment


----------



## Alsisgevat

It doesnt want to load the pic


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> Let me answer your second question since I have one of those res.
> The " small G1/4" stop fitting with 3 holes drilled into the side ' is meant for your intake to your pump and the 'long metal tube ' is meant for the water going into the reservoir. What this does is instead of water splashing down into your reservoir when it is not fully filled, it just goes straight under the water level.
> Hope you understand my explanation.


Thanks, you explained it perfectly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I normally use about 1 per liter of water.
> I ditch that little fitting,its very restrictive.
> I use the jet nozzle on the inlet to the res, This forces air to the top of the res when bleeding and stops suck back into the pump inlet or allows the res to have a top return feed.
> This works by lowering the inlet to below the waterline in the res,splashing water introduces air in to your fluid which is undesirable.
> This how i set one of them up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You made the right choice with that res...


Guess I will have to order another kill coil since my loop is close to the 1.2 - 1.3 liter area

The little fitting sounds like it's not worth using and when I think about it, it adds a bit of resistance going to the pump inlet. I plan to run my res the same way (vertical) but going to flip it around so my water inlet at the top of the res. So basically from what I understand is that the long metal tube gets fitted to the inlet. Am I over complicating this by doing it this way or is it better if i have my inlet and outlets at the bottom?

Thanks for the help so far


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Got my system up and running this weekend:


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Got my system up and running this weekend:


Interesting connectors you chose to use for PSU Extensions. We use those at work and they are really nice. I would have thought they would be too big to fit behind the mobo tray. Very nice looking build though


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Interesting connectors you chose to use for PSU Extensions. We use those at work and they are really nice. I would have thought they would be too big to fit behind the mobo tray. Very nice looking build though


lol they are too big. Yeah I got them from my work, AMP CPC connectors. I'm either going to get samller connectors and divide the 24 pin CPC down into 6 4pin CPC connectors, or more likely, I'm just going to desolder all the wires from the PSU and start over. I had originally planned on having the CPC connectors next to the MB, but it didn't look very good, so I scrapped the idea.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Got my system up and running this weekend:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How often do you have to refill that?


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> How often do you have to refill that?


By hand? about every 8 - 12 hours water needs to be added. At least that's the way my last evap cooler project was. With the automated refilling system, it will perform it all automatically and as it needs water. That's all managed by the Aquaero.


----------



## bundymania

BLIIIIINGTIME again


----------



## protzman

Quick question for you folks. Just saw a few min ago the results of someone flushing their rad and I was impressed by how much stuff came out so I now think its important I do before I run my system. I already tested my everything together outside of my system so I may also take apart my CPU block and clean it. What I need advice on is the best way to flush it? I was thinking some how use a bucket with distiller in it hook up the rads but in the bucket just make a way to prevent the particles form getting back in the loop?

Not really 100% sure Thad why I wanted to know what you guys do!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> BLIIIIINGTIME again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Bling bling!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> How often do you have to refill that?
> 
> 
> 
> By hand? about every 8 - 12 hours water needs to be added. At least that's the way my last evap cooler project was. With the automated refilling system, it will perform it all automatically and as it needs water. That's all managed by the Aquaero.
Click to expand...

Good god thats a hassle.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Good god thats a hassle.


Well that's running full out. Doing basic tasks where the GPU and CPU are idling for the most part, the Entire cooler system is shut off until temps in the CPU/GPU loop go above a certain temp


----------



## Shiikamaru

Update from
Quote:


> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/25020#post_17838203


Glass panel in, 24 pin atx done. 6990 in. More to go.


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> 
> 
> Update from
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/25020#post_17838203
> 
> 
> 
> Glass panel in, 24 pin atx done. 6990 in. More to go.
Click to expand...

how are those fans breathing with a sheet of glass right there?


----------



## Ceadderman

Agreed There should be some standoffs holding that glass panel off the case. Radiator temps should be much better.









~Ceadder


----------



## Shiikamaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> how are those fans breathing with a sheet of glass right there?


there are stand offs under the glass. 1 of it can be seen on the bottom right hand corner. there are stand offs on the other side of the case too for air to go in. if theres not enough air to go in i can just leave 1 of the psu cover open.


----------



## simonfredette

or mod the case to have the fans and rad pointing out to the sides instead of up , making a desk using an actual case makes it so much harder , youd be better off ripping the parts you need out of an old case ( or making them ) like the mobo tray and 5.25 bays etc and putting it into a desk you buy then adding the glass top.. A ******* jerry rigged version of l3p desk


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> 
> Update from
> Glass panel in, 24 pin atx done. 6990 in. More to go.


Looks good, but a well placed elbow + standoffs too spread apart and that sucker is gone.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> BLIIIIINGTIME again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


smexy!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## ginger_nuts

@Bundymania

You are such a tease, it is not funny.

Lovely work


----------



## simonfredette

that UV pink would probably look pretty sweet , not the most manly but you have to admit its a good looking coolant , with some clear tubing and acrylic tops ..


----------



## Mayhem

Ill say this again that lot looks like some one could get hammered on that line up pmsl.


----------



## simonfredette

oh yeah , it looks like sourpuss and vodka or something .


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Bro! Shots! Let's do some shots, Bro! Shots!


----------



## Futan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ill say this again that lot looks like some one could get hammered on that line up pmsl.


Yeah, really. I started drooling a bit.









UPS dropped off some wonderful packages for me today...



Got plenty of sleeving to do first, however, before I can have some fun with all that.


----------



## sortableturnip

The only reason someone would use that yellow dye is to say that they cool their comp with pee


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futan*
> 
> Yeah, really. I started drooling a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UPS dropped off some wonderful packages for me today...
> 
> Got plenty of sleeving to do first, however, before I can have some fun with all that.


looks like the same tubing as mine , great minds you know !!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is the EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump) any good?
i wish ek had tint reservoirs


----------



## Shaggy8675

Ok, my first post here, after reading more than 2000 pages of WOW!!! setups









It's my first time watercooling, so be gentle








My computer stands in the living room with very bad airflow. When I was gaming these last few weeks in the summer, I got artifacts from my stock running Radeon 6790 becaus of it getting to hot. So I needed to change things up.
this is what I did and ordered:


EK Waterblocks EK-Supremacy ( Acetal ) CPU block
EK Waterblocks EK-VGA Supreme HF ( Acetal ) GPU block
EK Waterblocks EK-Coolstream RAD XTX 240
EK Waterblocks EK-Multioption RES X2 - 250ml
Alphacool VPP655-T12 Pump
Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm fans 2x
Feser Tube UV reactive Bue 1/2"-13mm 2.5mtr
Inovatek Protect 2 ltr
Enzotech 13mm Compact 8x
Sharkoon Dual CCFL UV 2x30cm
Zalman ZM-RHS1 VGA RAM heatsinks
Arctic Cooling MX-4 coolingpaste
Hoseclamps screw 10x
Sidepanel window Lian-Li for PC-9F case

Got in a box last week containing these goodies


















And then I went from this setup wih lots of HDD's en RAID controller ( Now placed in a NAS ) to this setup:


















After installing these nice things:


















It was time to test the setup for leaks

















And since it didn't leak, I decided to put everything were it belongs and getting ready to fire it up the first time:









And then after pushing the start button....

NOTHING!!!!

My brand new MSI Z77 GD65 board was dead....









No water spills or anything. just dead...
So back to removing all my goodies:


















And returning the MSI board for RMA. But I also got a new Asus ( my normal used brand ) for replacement. Today I received a call that a new MSI is waiting for me, so I'm selling that one, and keeping the Asus which is running just great



































I still have to take some evening shots, but you get the idea I think









Here are some detail shots:






















































Now the set is running smoothly with an i5 @ 4200Mhz and the GPU clocked to 915 and 1110. CP doing 30c and GPU under gaming running 42c.
So I'm very happy


----------



## simonfredette

nice setup , those are some pretty serious clamps .. not gonna leak through that any time soon !!


----------



## Ceadderman

I woulda gone with multibarb clampless myself but that's pretty sharp regardless.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

This is why you always, always, always, always, always test your components BEFORE setting up your water loop....


----------



## rrims

I think you're missing a 6th "always"....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

ALWAYS!!!









In all seriousness, I really think this is the most important thing a noob to water cooling should know. Such a pain to get the loop all set up and leak tested only to find out that a video card or mobo is DOA...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> ALWAYS!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness, I really think this is the most important thing a noob to water cooling should know. Such a pain to get the loop all set up and leak tested only to find out that a video card or mobo is DOA...


For sure!!!









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> ALWAYS!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness, I really think this is the most important thing a noob to water cooling should know. Such a pain to get the loop all set up and leak tested only to find out that a video card or mobo is DOA...


I thought of that literally the day before I was about to build my current loop and was like "damn, hope all these parts work" and then it clicked to put the rig together lol

All the parts worked fine, but god forbid. I would have been so pissed


----------



## asho444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump) any good?
> i wish ek had tint reservoirs


Bump!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asho444*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump) any good?
> i wish ek had tint reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bump!
Click to expand...

Yes the 4.0 is pretty solid. Although if buying a separate pump I would suggest one of the DDC pumps for the price.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes the 4.0 is pretty solid. Although if buying a separate pump I would suggest one of the DDC pumps for the price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Honestly man I been thinking hard past few days about how I'm going to place my pump and res, and this dcp 4.0 with Res seems like it will fit perfect and be out of the way.

Unless you can show me a setup with a ddc pump this is pretty much the same layout.


----------



## asho444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Honestly man I been thinking hard past few days about how I'm going to place my pump and res, and this dcp 4.0 with Res seems like it will fit perfect and be out of the way.
> Unless you can show me a setup with a ddc pump this is pretty much the same layout.


It is Possible, this from an Aussie supplier so you will have to source your self.
Pump
Res


----------



## superericla

Dwood test bench coming up in a few days, ordered a block for my motherboard VREGs. A lot of good things coming up for me.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Dwood test bench coming up in a few days, ordered a block for my motherboard VREGs. A lot of good things coming up for me.


Yeah! Cool. Looking forward to seeing what you do with that bench. Got a build log link yet ?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asho444*
> 
> It is Possible, this from an Aussie supplier so you will have to source your self.
> Pump
> Res


You have a ddc pump with a d5 pump top linked
You'd want this top http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=22868


----------



## asho444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You have a ddc pump with a d5 pump top linked
> You'd want this top http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=22868


Thank you, Copied Wrong tab


----------



## Shaggy8675

Thanks for the comments all









The clamps are going to be replaced by mate-black ones in the future









And as for the components "always" testing before. I did, I was running the same setup for 3 weeks on aircooling hahaha, aircoolers off, watercoolers on and dead


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Yeah! Cool. Looking forward to seeing what you do with that bench. Got a build log link yet ?


Yes, it's in my signature. It's been going for quite a while but I've been holding back some upgrades for the test bench.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You have a ddc pump with a d5 pump top linked
> You'd want this top http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_659&products_id=22868


Like I could make that work but it won't look as clean as the other pump listed due to the way I have to run my tubes.. the one listed I will have full access to the Res, and the inlet and outlet are in the perfect position, one pointing to the left, the other pointing straying up! hard to explain in words I will show a diagram tmr when I go on my computer


----------



## Neo Zuko

All watercooling begins with air cooling!!


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> All watercooling begins with air cooling!!


Is this in relation to your avatar... avatar? see what I did there?!?!?!


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Is this in relation to your avatar... avatar? see what I did there?!?!?!


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Is this in relation to your avatar... avatar? see what I did there?!?!?!
Click to expand...

I can see that you see.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quick question for you folks. Just saw a few min ago the results of someone flushing their rad and I was impressed by how much stuff came out so I now think its important I do before I run my system. I already tested my everything together outside of my system so I may also take apart my CPU block and clean it. What I need advice on is the best way to flush it? I was thinking some how use a bucket with distiller in it hook up the rads but in the bucket just make a way to prevent the particles form getting back in the loop?
> Not really 100% sure Thad why I wanted to know what you guys do!


I flushed mine with a hot vinegar/distilled solution, then lot's of flushing with tap water, then with distilled again. Some of these guys have been creative with home filters/filter housings like you can find at big box stores like Lowes. But however you do it, just do it. Amazing how much crap came out of my XSPC rads.Probably want to pull your block and check it, even though I cleaned my rads I still got some kind of crap in the block, plus a piece of acetyl from either the pump top or res, and even a hair.


----------



## drkimlee

Hey every one, this is my first Custom Water Cooling Loop that ive built in my Cosmos 2 case. Tell me what you think? Also can i be added the club???


----------



## PCModderMike

I think it looks good







You should fill out your sig rig @drkimlee so we know the specs.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I shall revise: all water bending begins with air bending!! In the show, air even comes just before water in the avatar cycle - how cool is that?

Also I heard the black ice radiators have less gunk inside due to good manufacturing or so I read.


----------



## drkimlee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think it looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should fill out your sig rig @drkimlee so we know the specs.


This may sound stupid, but whats my Sig Rig? I dont know how to fill it out lol


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I shall revise: all water bending begins with air bending!! In the show, air even comes just before water in the avatar cycle - how cool is that?
> 
> Also I heard the black ice radiators have less gunk inside due to good manufacturing or so I read.


So the sequence goes air, then water, then radiator gunk in the avatar cycle of elements?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drkimlee*
> 
> This may sound stupid, but whats my Sig Rig? I dont know how to fill it out lol


Haha no such thing as a stupid question. Click on create a new rig, and it will walk you through filling out everything.


----------



## Aleckazee

What would you recommend in terms of cpu block for 2500k? Not too worried about flow, more about the actual efficiency in cooling. Something not overly expensive would be nice


----------



## simonfredette

raystorm , EK , heatkiller .. all the good named brands are very efficient coolers and you can generally increase the efficiency more with the TIM you use.. So go within your budget in the popular names and choose the one you like best for looks ..


----------



## prznar1

try to find some ek supreme hf from sale (now they are selling supremacy so old supreme should be on sales) or if you can find xspc rasa cpu overtaken by raystorm


----------



## JPigg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> The Raystorm inlet is on right, you have it marked in your diagram as outlet. I am sure that matters or they would not put a label on the block. Unless the all copper block is different form the normal ray? I just built a Dual pump loop with dual D5 top about 4 hours ago. My temps with a 3930k / Raystorm @ 4.6GHz 1.35v volt meter reading with avg temps on all six cores is 61C loaded.
> 
> How are you running your pumps? In parallel or series? Series is the way to go.
> From your photo it looks like you are running parallel, its hard to tell from the photo.
> I also noticed the block is upside down. I could be wrong, been up all day, night & still awake.


what program is that, that displays all the information on the right side of the screen shot?


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> What would you recommend in terms of cpu block for 2500k? Not too worried about flow, more about the actual efficiency in cooling. Something not overly expensive would be nice


Ive got a brand new swiftech apogee Hd i'll sell ya (unUsed)







here


----------



## Aleckazee

Thanks, I found a heatkiller rev3.0 . worries me a bit that there are slightly different versions of these going for $85 ad $89, seems like I chose a cheap alternative for $49. on the other hand the 2500k wouldn't get that hot anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> raystorm , EK , heatkiller .. all the good named brands are very efficient coolers and you can generally increase the efficiency more with the TIM you use.. So go within your budget in the popular names and choose the one you like best for looks ..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> try to find some ek supreme hf from sale (now they are selling supremacy so old supreme should be on sales) or if you can find xspc rasa cpu overtaken by raystorm


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So the sequence goes air, then water, then radiator gunk in the avatar cycle of elements?


Maybe the answer is here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7HtWez9x6A&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Or here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9i7LxmqRXQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Nope, just awesome art, animation, and music!! Where's a metal bender when you need one?

In all seriousness, my water cooled Case Labs STH10 project case will have a Legend of Korra theme. Watercooling seems to go with watebending























The proposed water cooling parts are in my Signature PC Rig below. I have the main PC parts already. Going to mod in some art and delid my 3770K.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I shall revise: all water bending begins with air bending!! In the show, air even comes just before water in the avatar cycle - how cool is that?
> Also I heard the black ice radiators have less gunk inside due to good manufacturing or so I read.


It's true. I flushed both of my Black Ice radiators using the bucket-pump-home house filter flushing loop and got just a couple of tiny pieces of grit out. Did a video of it but haven't edited it yet....


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Ive got a brand new swiftech apogee Hd i'll sell ya (unUsed)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here


Is it the all black one and how much?


----------



## Mayor Winters

May I join, bros?


----------



## jackofhearts495

That Aquacomputer backplate is gorgeous.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asho444*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Honestly man I been thinking hard past few days about how I'm going to place my pump and res, and this dcp 4.0 with Res seems like it will fit perfect and be out of the way.
> Unless you can show me a setup with a ddc pump this is pretty much the same layout.
> 
> 
> 
> It is Possible, this from an Aussie supplier so you will have to source your self.
> Pump
> Res
Click to expand...

contact bmaverick and see if he still has any pumps left. Brand New RePinned units for $35. And most DDC tops will fit within that area short of a reservoir top.









~Ceadder


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Is it the all black one and how much?


white/black: 60 shipped? well i ran distilled in it to test it when i got it because it was my first venture into water cooling and i was pumpped to run water thru it







that was like 2 months ago but since then i havent used it. Ek sent me a supremacy so im gonna stick with that cause it matches all my other stuff.

Hope this helps!


----------



## itoxiczzhd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> try to find some ek supreme hf from sale (now they are selling supremacy so old supreme should be on sales) or if you can find xspc rasa cpu overtaken by raystorm


I don't know about any where else but in the uk the supreme hf blocks cost more than the supremacy ones and they are pretty hard to come by.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump) any good?
> i wish ek had tint reservoirs


You could always add your own tint to those res


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayor Winters*
> 
> May I join, bros?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would shorten that hose from GPU to rad. Turn the 45 degree fittings so that they are pointing at each other and make one shorter straight tube. Otherwise looking good!


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> Thanks, I found a heatkiller rev3.0 . worries me a bit that there are slightly different versions of these going for $85 ad $89, seems like I chose a cheap alternative for $49. on the other hand the 2500k wouldn't get that hot anyway.


The difference in price on the one you linked, is because it has a delrin/acetal top rather than copper that's found in the more expensive versions. It has very little (nearly immeasurable) difference in performance.


----------



## Egameman

I was just about to order myself a nice shine EK 680 caq block ( yes I love the design, dont hate







) ...but then I realized that the barbs will either be pointing downwards or sidewards( excuse my poor english)....I Cant run them one each side like I¨ve seen with the "old" 680 blocks.

SHould I try to dins the old bloks somewhere or should I go crazy on 90 degreee fittings ?

I want the block now







my 670 looks so thirsty !

I do on the other hand have the option to buy the old 680 blcok, but in the copper plexi version, doesnt exactly match my csq nickel plexi block.

Or should I buy a block from a different brand, it gotta match tough.

http://www.google.no/imgres?hl=no&sa=X&biw=1920&bih=979&tbm=isch&prmd=imvns&tbnid=wYJqyzklxP5XkM:&imgrefurl=http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc680-gtx-csq.html%3F___store%3Dslo%26___from_store%3Deng&docid=x5-xq_0xvw81CM&imgurl=http://www.ekwb.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/f/c/fc680gtx-green_800_1.jpg&w=800&h=533&ei=RrEqUPTKDcuFhQe524GABg&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=293&sig=113997404117339524384&page=1&tbnh=127&tbnw=165&start=0&ndsp=53&ved=1t:429,r:6,s:0,i:90&tx=78&ty=46


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> I was just about to order myself a nice shine EK 680 caq block ( yes I love the design, dont hate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ...but then I realized that the barbs will either be pointing downwards or sidewards( excuse my poor english)....I Cant run them one each side like I¨ve seen with the "old" 680 blocks.
> SHould I try to dins the old bloks somewhere or should I go crazy on 90 degreee fittings ?
> I want the block now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 670 looks so thirsty !
> I do on the other hand have the option to buy the old 680 blcok, but in the copper plexi version, doesnt exactly match my csq nickel plexi block.
> Or should I buy a block from a different brand, it gotta match tough.
> http://www.google.no/imgres?hl=no&sa=X&biw=1920&bih=979&tbm=isch&prmd=imvns&tbnid=wYJqyzklxP5XkM:&imgrefurl=http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc680-gtx-csq.html%3F___store%3Dslo%26___from_store%3Deng&docid=x5-xq_0xvw81CM&imgurl=http://www.ekwb.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/f/c/fc680gtx-green_800_1.jpg&w=800&h=533&ei=RrEqUPTKDcuFhQe524GABg&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=293&sig=113997404117339524384&page=1&tbnh=127&tbnw=165&start=0&ndsp=53&ved=1t:429,r:6,s:0,i:90&tx=78&ty=46


if ur using 2 680's i cant tell but thats what it sounds like why not just get the serial bridge from ek to match?


----------



## Egameman

only using one card







dont have any plans on SLi either....*wife nagging* (A)

if u looke at the picture, you see my problem.... either downwards or towards the side panel









really annoying cause I cant see how the tubing would go out nicely...

also looking at aquacomputers 680 full nickel blocks.

are you thjinking i would buy a link, and 1 blank link to cover the outlets I dont need or ?


----------



## chino1974

Guys what is the better option for a pump jingway dp600 or a Swiftech MCP355 with a Petras DDC-01 top ?


----------



## Egameman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys what is the better option for a pump jingway dp600 or a Swiftech MCP355 with a Petras DDC-01 top ?


355 in ny opinion







the dcp is also good, but go for a ddc


----------



## moparbob7

Hey guys, I would really like to build a nice water cooling system. I currently have a H50. My system is AMD Sabertooth with the 8150. I have a evga GTX 550 TI. My case is the Thermaltake Chaser. I just want a simple one just so I can learn. I seen alot on here and they are awesome. I do like the long round reservoir. I would also like to use the Mayhem Aurora coolant.

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## Mayor Winters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I would shorten that hose from GPU to rad. Turn the 45 degree fittings so that they are pointing at each other and make one shorter straight tube. Otherwise looking good!


Yep, im working on that, but that 45 fitting is not turnable, im getting turnable fittings soon.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Hey guys, I would really like to build a nice water cooling system. I currently have a H50. My system is AMD Sabertooth with the 8150. I have a evga GTX 550 TI. My case is the Thermaltake Chaser. I just want a simple one just so I can learn. I seen alot on here and they are awesome. I do like the long round reservoir. I would also like to use the Mayhem Aurora coolant.
> Thanks,
> Bob


A good starting point is the XSPC kits, they come as CPU only, but you can add GPU blocks if needed, or wanted.

To do a CPU and GPU I would suggest at least a EX240 kit.

Also Mayhems Aurora range is only intended for short term use.

You may find this useful for Mayhems coolants/dyes.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ugh so i did some final measurements and i thought i could fit a 360 rad internally but its just a tiny bit to big even if modded, and i dont want to mount it externally..

So i was wondering if i could get a way with a thin 240 rad with fans in push + a think 240 rad in push/pull for my 2500k and gtx690?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ugh so i did some final measurements and i thought i could fit a 360 rad internally but its just a tiny bit to big even if modded, and i dont want to mount it externally..
> So i was wondering if i could get a way with a thin 240 rad with fans in push + a think 240 rad in push/pull for my 2500k and gtx690?


Thick 240 will give respectable temps. You can always just keep the H80 for the cpu and use a thick 240 for the 690.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thick 240 will give respectable temps. You can always just keep the H80 for the cpu and use a thick 240 for the 690.


Lol if I'm going water cooling, I'm going all out not keeping my h80 haha, but ya will those two rads be enough to cool my system with good temps?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Lol if I'm going water cooling, I'm going all out not keeping my h80 haha, but ya will those two rads be enough to cool my system with good temps?


Change your case. Right now its whats holding you back from getting an awesome water loop. There's a few cases. I've been eyeing the Azza Genesis. You can fit a 480 and a 240 in it and it looks awesome in white (or black). There's a few more other options out there for water cooling cases from $100-300. You have anything in mind?

In the mean time, if you are sticking with the RV03, the h80 will hold up ok with your cpu. Honestly, I would sell the H80 and and the case, get a new one and start piecing your custom loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

2nded. Can't beat a good case for both Air and Watercooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Change your case. Right now its whats holding you back from getting an awesome water loop. There's a few cases. I've been eyeing the Azza Genesis. You can fit a 480 and a 240 in it and it looks awesome in white (or black). There's a few more other options out there for water cooling cases from $100-300. You have anything in mind?
> In the mean time, if you are sticking with the RV03, the h80 will hold up ok with your cpu. Honestly, I would sell the H80 and and the case, get a new one and start piecing your custom loop.


Honestly I love my case and is totally possible to water cool it, I just want to make it cleaner then alot of the other rv03 water cooling builds, I can easily fit 2 thick 240 rads with push/pull, but if my temps would be decent with a slim and a thick one I want to do it that way so it looks cleaner.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Honestly I love my case and is totally possible to water cool it, I just want to make it cleaner then alot of the other rv03 water cooling builds, I can easily fit 2 thick 240 rads with push/pull, but if my temps would be decent with a slim and a thick one I want to do it that way so it looks cleaner.


Look at the Alphacool UT240 and stick that in the bays, and a UT280 to go on the bottom of the case. If you can sacrifice some bays, this might be a nice option for you


----------



## simonfredette

otherwise invest 150 $ and get yourself something like a switch 810 or an 800D


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> otherwise invest 150 $ and get yourself something like a switch 810 or an 800D


There's quite a few options of cases under $200. My Elysium, though not the most feature packed, has a ton of water cooling options.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's quite a few options of cases under $200. My Elysium, though not the most feature packed, has a ton of water cooling options.


Man that case is a beast.
And I agree with that.
So much spare for ALL THE RADS!


----------



## simonfredette

The elysium is a cool case !!


----------



## wermad

This one is so tempting. I found a guy selling one on craigslist lcoally, but he's not responding to any of my inquiries. I would have sold my Elysium (locally) for cheap to get this one. Amazon has it cheap for $159 less a $30 mir for the black one, and $169 less a $20 mir for the white one.


----------



## simonfredette

so many 5.25 , Im dissapointed with the switch 810 for that , if you want 2 rads you have to get rid of the hot swap bays so you end up with 4 available including one with only enough space for a fan controller


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Lol if I'm going water cooling, I'm going all out not keeping my h80 haha, but ya will those two rads be enough to cool my system with good temps?


You can use a 3x 180 magicool rad,fits in the bottom and uses the stock 180 fans in the bottom,a common mod for this case.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> so many 5.25 , Im dissapointed with the switch 810 for that , if you want 2 rads you have to get rid of the hot swap bays so you end up with 4 available including one with only enough space for a fan controller


The mb tray is removable and you can go inverted or standard atx. You can also put your psu on the bottom front so you can fit a 240mm rad or 280mm rad at the bottom. And you can stick in another rad in the front. The only wrinkly in this awesome case is the lack of large window.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can use a 3x 180 magicool rad,fits in the bottom and uses the stock 180 fans in the bottom,a common mod for this case.


The RV03 is slightly smaller than the RV02 and FT02 and the psu is in the way











edit: you can always mod the drive bays to fit the psu (done this a bunch of times), or as I suggested, a 280 down there and a 240 in the bays. Personally, I would ditch that case and get something bigger and better for water cooling.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The RV03 is slightly smaller than the RV02 and FT02 and the psu is in the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: you can always mod the drive bays to fit the psu (done this a bunch of times), or as I suggested, a 280 down there and a 240 in the bays. Personally, I would ditch that case and get something bigger and better for water cooling.


See i have a matx mobo, so i have room at the back of the case, im just throwing a stealth 240 in push/pull there and a thick one in the drive bays, and il still be able to keep the 180mm fans at the bottom for the hdd's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> See i have a matx mobo, so i have room at the back of the case, im just throwing a stealth 240 in push/pull there and a thick one in the drive bays, and il still be able to keep the 180mm fans at the bottom for the hdd's


Sounds like a plan. So the 180s are going as intake and the rads as exhaust? You can always get a thick rad for the rear and just use one set of fans. There not a dramatic difference between push or pull vs push/pull.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sounds like a plan. So the 180s are going as intake and the rads as exhaust? You can always get a thick rad for the rear and just use one set of fans. There not a dramatic difference between push or pull vs push/pull.


well its either stealth in push/pull or thick with just pull at the back, what would be a better option?

and i havent thought about that which way the fans should be yet, i think the rad at the front will be intaking air from the front, and i guess the one at the back will be pusing air out of the case, and the stock fans will all be pushing air up


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> well its either stealth in push/pull or thick with just pull at the back, what would be a better option?
> and i havent thought about that which way the fans should be yet, i think the rad at the front will be intaking air from the front, and i guess the one at the back will be pusing air out of the case, and the stock fans will all be pushing air up


Try setting up neutral air flow so the bottom two 180s as intake and a couple of 120s on each rad as exhaust would work fine.

As far as 120 fans, you have a ton of options. Look for some that have good static pressure.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Try setting up neutral air flow so the bottom two 180s as intake and a couple of 120s on each rad as exhaust would work fine.
> As far as 120 fans, you have a ton of options. Look for some that have good static pressure.


already have 6 ap15s on the way, and probably ordering 2more along with my vga block on friday.

you never answered my question tho, whats better a slim 240 with push/pull or a thick on with just push?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> already have 6 ap15s on the way, and probably ordering 2more along with my vga block on friday.
> you never answered my question tho, whats better a slim 240 with push/pull or a thick on with just push?


More rad is the way to go imho







GT are perfectly fine. Make sure your rads will work with the fan's rpms.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> More rad is the way to go imho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GT are perfectly fine. Make sure your rads will work with the fan's rpms.


im getting the hwlabs black ice gtx 240 extreme


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> im getting the hwlabs black ice gtx 240 extreme


Did you order it already? If not, seriously consider the Alphacool UT60s


----------



## Ceadderman

This is why 932 is king of the cheap cases. 6 Bays 5 HDD sliders and will hold a 360 right off the bat.









Got my Dremel 395 the other day, so soo as I get a little more money I'm goin postal on my doors... Okay only on one. The other I'm gonna keep it understated mostly.




















~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is why 932 is king of the cheap cases. 6 Bays 5 HDD sliders and will hold a 360 right off the bat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my Dremel 395 the other day, so soo as I get a little more money I'm goin postal on my doors... Okay only on one. The other I'm gonna keep it understated mostly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I don't know mate





















Haf-X is dipping to the ~$100 range. Awfully tempting when the X has got a bit more features (and a less water capability tbh) and it looks nicer imho







.

edit: Im tempted to buy (and keep







) a rotozip and do some acrylic work.


----------



## Ecks9T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is so tempting. I found a guy selling one on craigslist lcoally, but he's not responding to any of my inquiries. I would have sold my Elysium (locally) for cheap to get this one. Amazon has it cheap for $159 less a $30 mir for the black one, and $169 less a $20 mir for the white one.


i just got mine from ncix $164.24 - $30MIR. sadly still waiting for them to ship it


----------



## Egameman

Anyone got any experience using aquacomputer aquagrafx 680 block? I like the new ek blocks but a stupid way to mount the fittings


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecks9T*
> 
> i just got mine from ncix $164.24 - $30MIR. sadly still waiting for them to ship it


Why didn't you get it from amazon? I wish this local guy would respond. I really want it







Price jumped a bit on amazon but I'm hoping it comes down before the Cali tax hits soon








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Anyone got any experience using aquacomputer aquagrafx 680 block? I like the new ek blocks but a stupid way to mount the fittings


They are very good blocks. The fitting mounting piece is very similar (if no the same) as the Heatkiller one. It provides you with ports on top and bottom *and* its detachable to connect their bridges. XSPC is doing something similar along the lines of EK but the AC and HK have been doing it for some time. I like the Hk more as its slightly less expensive and their bridges are less expensive and simpler.

For a single gpu application, its a great choice


----------



## Ecks9T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> Why didn't you get it from amazon? I wish this local guy would respond. I really want it Price jumped a bit on amazon but I'm hoping it comes down before the Cali tax hits soon


i was ordering a bunch of bitfenix spectre fans as well so i figure i get it there to and the rebate to me seem more appealing since these places are local anyways. But i am going to try and call ncix tomorrow and request a pick up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecks9T*
> 
> i was ordering a bunch of bitfenix spectre fans as well so i figure i get it there to and the rebate to me seem more appealing since these places are local anyways. But i am going to try and call ncix tomorrow and request a pick up.


If the white comes down to 149 and the mir is still available, I'm grabbing one. Now that I'm air cooling, the Elysium doesn't seem that appealing (when using water, then yes).


----------



## Dredknot

So once again im thinking of redoing my loop lol. Its only the 20th time but hey thats why were all on this forum right? Took some new pics and sold a video card to pay for a new motorcycle helmet lol. Would like some input on what kind of colors i should do. Im thinking of switching back to my black and green setup. I really like the look of some of these neon acid green rigs out there. But then again i really like my custom red and white helix lol. I cant seem to find a decent red tubing that matches more of the blood red color i was going for and i cant use dyed liquid as it just makes the res look horrible lol.
Ignore the dust lol. Haven't made a trip to buy a can of air lately dude to pure laziness lol


----------



## Lazy Bear

How the hell did you find an EK FB block in copper for the Maximus IV?


----------



## Dredknot

Lol i actually bought it from wemad a few months ago. Spur of the moment thing and i noticed he had one for sale


----------



## fa5terba11

Hey Guys,

I just completed the PSU/Radiator cover in my Frost Phoenix. Please check it out. http://www.overclock.net/t/1269782/work-log-project-frost-phoenix-nzxt-switch-810-water-cooled#post_17479889


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The RV03 is slightly smaller than the RV02 and FT02 and the psu is in the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: you can always mod the drive bays to fit the psu (done this a bunch of times), or as I suggested, a 280 down there and a 240 in the bays. Personally, I would ditch that case and get something bigger and better for water cooling.


Ah....i wasnt aware they changed design.
Shame tho,the 3x180 looks mint in the earlier versions....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> So once again im thinking of redoing my loop lol. Its only the 20th time but hey thats why were all on this forum right? Took some new pics and sold a video card to pay for a new motorcycle helmet lol. Would like some input on what kind of colors i should do. Im thinking of switching back to my black and green setup. I really like the look of some of these neon acid green rigs out there. But then again i really like my custom red and white helix lol. I cant seem to find a decent red tubing that matches more of the blood red color i was going for and i cant use dyed liquid as it just makes the res look horrible lol.
> Ignore the dust lol. Haven't made a trip to buy a can of air lately dude to pure laziness lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Snip


Check out my Mayhems dye comparison to see how the uv green looks like. Very nice







Sad to hear one of the 580s was sold


----------



## gliggo

Finally got my hands on some EK 7970 back plates, safe to say my build is finally complete...

for the meantime anyway


----------



## zalbard

Great looking build!


----------



## Dredknot

Ya needless to say I was a little sad lol but I needed a new helmet so it wasn't all bad. I plan on gettin some 4g 680 soon anyways. I still have my uv green helix to I wonder how it would show up with mayhems uv green. It would prob overpower the helix.


----------



## drkimlee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Finally got my hands on some EK 7970 back plates, safe to say my build is finally complete...
> for the meantime anyway


That looks amazing ! Great work:thumb:


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drkimlee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Finally got my hands on some EK 7970 back plates, safe to say my build is finally complete...
> for the meantime anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks amazing ! Great work:thumb:
Click to expand...

Thanks mate


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice Rig Gliggo, I really like the look of it.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is why 932 is king of the cheap cases. 6 Bays 5 HDD sliders and will hold a 360 right off the bat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got my Dremel 395 the other day, so soo as I get a little more money I'm goin postal on my doors... Okay only on one. The other I'm gonna keep it understated mostly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You forgot to mention that it can hold a 2x200mm rad up top as well








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Finally got my hands on some EK 7970 back plates, safe to say my build is finally complete...
> for the meantime anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fantastic build! Love the color scheme!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Finally got my hands on some EK 7970 back plates, safe to say my build is finally complete...
> for the meantime anyway


Looks pretty sweet!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Finally got my hands on some EK 7970 back plates, safe to say my build is finally complete...
> for the meantime anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a sick looking rig. Love the lighting, just enough to see the main components and dark enough to keep you guessing.


----------



## Mayor Winters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Anyone got any experience using aquacomputer aquagrafx 680 block? I like the new ek blocks but a stupid way to mount the fittings


Mine is the aquacomputer 680 block and its working great.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*


WOW, Those statues next to your computer are sweet!

Oh, Your computer is nice too


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

*Sigh* After seeing Gliggo's rig I'm almost certain I have to drain and refill my loop. I definitely want a clear red color rather than this pastel...


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> *Sigh* After seeing Gliggo's rig I'm almost certain I have to drain and refill my loop. I definitely want a clear red color rather than this pastel...


yeah its pretty slick looking, do you know what fluid it is?


----------



## rrims

Do you guys know if there's a high demand for a 7970 EK backplate? I'm considering a giveaway, but don't know if many people would be interested...


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> Do you guys know if there's a high demand for a 7970 EK backplate? I'm considering a giveaway, but don't know if many people would be interested...


id be interested haha


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> Do you guys know if there's a high demand for a 7970 EK backplate? I'm considering a giveaway, but don't know if many people would be interested...


There's always some one interested. You can make it function without a water block or even an EK block. Why not sell it? Though, it would be a nice freebie


----------



## zdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> Do you guys know if there's a high demand for a 7970 EK backplate? I'm considering a giveaway, but don't know if many people would be interested...
> 
> 
> 
> There's always some one interested. You can make it function without a water block or even an EK block. Why not sell it? Though, it would be a nice freebie
Click to expand...

He doesn't have 35 Rep so he can't sell it


----------



## rrims

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> id be interested haha


Haha








If I were to get rid of it, I'd only do a freebie on OCN.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's always some one interested. You can make it function without a water block or even an EK block. Why not sell it? Though, it would be a nice freebie


On the EK site, its only about 30 dollars. So with shipping and stuff, you're near 40. Just thought I'd help out the OCN community.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> He doesn't have 35 Rep so he can't sell it


I didn't want to sell it. I would of posted it on eBay or Craigslist if I did.

But with that being said, I'll get the freebie thread going. =)


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> Haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I were to get rid of it, I'd only do a freebie on OCN.
> On the EK site, its only about 30 dollars. So with shipping and stuff, you're near 40. Just thought I'd help out the OCN community.
> I didn't want to sell it. I would of posted it on eBay or Craigslist if I did.
> But with that being said, I'll get the freebie thread going. =)


zooms over to freebie thread, i was actually just thinking about the backplate today, my 7970 with an ek block currently does not have a backplate


----------



## rrims

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> zooms over to freebie thread, i was actually just thinking about the backplate today, my 7970 with an ek block currently does not have a backplate


It's up on the Freebies section. Good luck!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zdude*
> 
> He doesn't have 35 Rep so he can't sell it
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> I would of posted it on *eBay or Craigslist* if I did.
Click to expand...

This


----------



## henry9419

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> So once again im thinking of redoing my loop lol. Its only the 20th time but hey thats why were all on this forum right? Took some new pics and sold a video card to pay for a new motorcycle helmet lol. Would like some input on what kind of colors i should do. Im thinking of switching back to my black and green setup. I really like the look of some of these neon acid green rigs out there. But then again i really like my custom red and white helix lol. I cant seem to find a decent red tubing that matches more of the blood red color i was going for and i cant use dyed liquid as it just makes the res look horrible lol.
> Ignore the dust lol. Haven't made a trip to buy a can of air lately dude to pure laziness lol


for the first 45 seconds looking at this pic i didnt see the link between the two blocks and couldnt see how they both got water between them


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> *Sigh* After seeing Gliggo's rig I'm almost certain I have to drain and refill my loop. I definitely want a clear red color rather than this pastel...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> yeah its pretty slick looking, do you know what fluid it is?


Hey guys im using mayhems x1 uv red. i had the concentrated 250ml which i then mixed with distilled water.

the red looks great through the crystal links how ever i have a pinkish tinge within the tubing. Could be due to the primoflex tubing used.

kind of limited here in australia.

next time i do an order from the U.S ill be looking into grabbing some duralene if its still the tubing to get


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> Do you guys know if there's a high demand for a 7970 EK backplate? I'm considering a giveaway, but don't know if many people would be interested...


o man this would have been perfect a few weeks ago, i was forced to buy off ebay because the ones from australia were out of spec, apparently.

anyways good luck to those lucky people


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Hey guys im using mayhems x1 uv red. i had the concentrated 250ml which i then mixed with distilled water.
> 
> the red looks great through the crystal links how ever i have a pinkish tinge within the tubing. Could be due to the primoflex tubing used.
> kind of limited here in australia.
> next time i do an order from the U.S ill be looking into grabbing some duralene if its still the tubing to get


Yeah, Michael (Mayhems) is sending me some pastel light red and some X1 dye...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys i was thinking about doing my build with black fittings and purple uv tubing, or clear tubing with purple uv die... but after searching on google, i dont see anyone running purple die or purple tubing in there rigs, is there a reason for that ?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys i was thinking about doing my build with black fittings and purple uv tubing, or clear tubing with purple uv die... but after searching on google, i dont see anyone running purple die or purple tubing in there rigs, is there a reason for that ?


red + blue = purple


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys i was thinking about doing my build with black fittings and purple uv tubing, or clear tubing with purple uv die... but after searching on google, i dont see anyone running purple die or purple tubing in there rigs, is there a reason for that ?


Mayhems "Deep Purple"







This is primochill uv blue but it looks more purple tbh:


----------



## broken pixel

I blocked my GTX680 today









Heatkiller GPU X3

-

-

-

Dual D5 BP Top
-


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> red + blue = purple


What do you mean?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mayhems "Deep Purple"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is primochill uv blue but it looks more purple tbh:


Um wish he had his case closed with UV lights to se what it looked like... they flash off the camera I don't think justifys what it looks like


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is this brand any good?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_992_974&products_id=30312


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is this brand any good?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_992_974&products_id=30312


Yes, it's on the same level as Durelene in my tests.









(Well, at least the clear is. I haven't tested the colored Masterkleer tubing.)


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Yes, it's on the same level as Durelene in my tests.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Well, at least the clear is. I haven't tested the colored Masterkleer tubing.)


Well if you say there good I might buy purple uv tubing from them because no one else seems to offer purple and the die doesn't look to good to me...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What do you mean?
> Um wish he had his case closed with UV lights to se what it looked like... they flash off the camera I don't think justifys what it looks like


ummmm, I don't do uv lights


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What do you mean?


Purple color is a mix of red and blue, hence, if you mix red and blue dye together, you will get purple


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> I blocked my GTX680 today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heatkiller GPU X3
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> -
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> Dual D5 BP Top
> -


I so wanted to get that top, but couldn't figure out how to work it in to my build because of the angle of the inlet. Wish they had put an inlet on the side (left side of your pic). In the end I ordered another single BP V2 top for the second pump because of the multiple inlets.


----------



## protzman

Been Testing my loop and parts and flushing my rads the past month or so.
Probably ran the loop 3 times all together and my tubing (clear primochill), which i though was regarded well,
IS ALREADY CLOUDING UP! what the heck!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

New Primochill is the WORST tubing for clouding afaik...


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Been Testing my loop and parts and flushing my rads the past month or so.
> Probably ran the loop 3 times all together and my tubing (clear primochill), which i though was regarded well,
> IS ALREADY CLOUDING UP! what the heck!


Join the club! I'm using a bit of clear Primochill tubing in my system and it clouded up within the first few nights of completing my system. Might give Durelene a go, I've heard its the best tubing. Btw, what dye are you using?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Nearly a month with my Durelene tubing and no clouding yet....


----------



## 4514kaiser

4-5 months with my primochill white tubing no clouding up (no dye) that said i haven't been hearing many good things recently about primochill tubing....


----------



## Ecks9T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> 4-5 months with my primochill white tubing no clouding up (no dye) that said i haven't been hearing many good things recently about primochill tubing....


usually the clouding on ptomochill tubes is from the plasterize. look inside you tube in your rig there should be done white residue.
i have some in my. waiting to get new wc gear before i change it out.


----------



## SonDa5

Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ 79X0 Ni-Bl on Sapphire HD7950 950mhz edition.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Join the club! I'm using a bit of clear Primochill tubing in my system and it clouded up within the first few nights of completing my system. Might give Durelene a go, I've heard its the best tubing. Btw, what dye are you using?


Ditilled firsts go. Distilled with a bit of Ek coolant just for fun on the second go, and distilled last night. i can barely see thru this crap!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> 4-5 months with my primochill white tubing no clouding up (no dye) that said i haven't been hearing many good things recently about primochill tubing....


and i didnt use dye maybe urs is "old primochill" like whoever else said


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Well if you say there good I might buy purple uv tubing from them because no one else seems to offer purple and the die doesn't look to good to me...


Here is how the masterkleer UV Purple looks on my old build -

No UV -



UV -


----------



## zzorro

look nice..i like uv...


----------



## halcyon-twin

nice work there!


----------



## Willhemmens

Depends on who you ask. Personally, I wouldn't buy Masterkleer, I bought some when I was first watercooling and it clouded right up.

I use XSPC or Thermochill tubing now, they're the same and I've yet to have any issues.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thats 2 of the 3 i need....

What you are about to see is filth...

Adults only,No minors.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats 2 of the 3 i need....
> What you are about to see is filth...
> Adults only,No minors.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh you are dirty


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats 2 of the 3 i need....
> What you are about to see is filth...
> Adults only,No minors.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You magnificent bastard you


----------



## jackofhearts495

Here's a helpful link for those of you talking about clouding tubing









And if you'd like to contribute, there's a link in my signature.


----------



## renaldi17

Finished built on my Corsair 650D


----------



## azeller09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renaldi17*
> 
> Finished built on my Corsair 650D


What CPU and GPU is that? Do you get good temps with only a 240 rad?


----------



## renaldi17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azeller09*
> 
> What CPU and GPU is that? Do you get good temps with only a 240 rad?


actually i use two rads, swiftech 220 and ek xtx 120 hidden near the psu. For cpu I use i7 2600k, and gpu gtx 680. Temps are pretty good with my setup, my cpu idle at 24-26c, and my gpu idle at 27-30c, both cpu and gpu load around 43-45c.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please use spoiler tags for quoting more than 1 pic please


----------



## juneau78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renaldi17*
> 
> actually i use two rads, swiftech 220 and ek xtx 120 hidden near the psu. For cpu I use i7 2600k, and gpu gtx 680. Temps are pretty good with my setup, my cpu idle at 24-26c, and my gpu idle at 27-30c, both cpu and gpu load around 43-45c.


dude i just asked the same question on Indonesian local forum and accidentally found u answering here.
so this settled then..


----------



## Egameman

Need some advice here:

I wanna mount this :

https://www.techbay.no/product.html/bitspower-vanntank-z-multi-80

on top of this

https://www.techbay.no/product.html/bitspower-d5-/-mcp655-pumpetopp-sort

using either one of these two

https://www.techbay.no/product.html/bitspower-bp-wtp-c28

OR

https://www.techbay.no/product.html/bitspower-gjengekonverter-1/4bsp?category_id=98

Will that be sufficeint for holding the whole res ?

I dont have an option to mount it anywhere else ( arc mini with a full 360 rad..not much room left.

ALSO...

Idle temps on my 3570 k (4,2 Ghz) with my sectre pros on max rpm ( 1200) is 30 celsius....isn't that a tad much ? I¨m using EK nickel plexi CSW with EK coolant

The fans are spinning 1200 rpm, and the rad is a 360 coolgate 60 mmthick, 7 fpi..

After 6 hrs of prime 95 I got up to around 58 degrees celsius.. I'm worried the rad won't be sufficient for my 670 FTW , even topugh thumb of rule says it will







(120 rad per component)

I can install a 240 rad..but would rather spend them on a MCP655 since my mcp355 is very hot ( in my opinion), and it looks nicer (A)

Please help a poor guy with the upgrade bug


----------



## superericla

The TripT 'Roids bench arrived today. I have pictures in my build log.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Noticed something strange on that tube in the bitspwr res..loop has been running 5 days and have only distilled and one kill coil..that red color is only visible when holding a light up to it.. I did handle that tube before installing... What do you guys think?


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

So whats up with the new EK block designs? Not liking them at all and I think I might just keep my blocks for future use instead of selling them if they're going to stick with it


----------



## rotary7

Heres my build guys


----------



## johnko1

Is my ex240 enough for the 2700k at 4.8GHz?I get 73C load on 33 ambient at 4.5GHz(1.29 volt).I want to see as low temps as possible wihout going to extreme cooling.Should I add an alphacool ut60 240?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> Heres my build guys
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice









Is the case open or do you have your panels vented fro the bottom rad?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Is my ex240 enough for the 2700k at 4.8GHz?I get 73C load on 33 ambient at 4.5GHz(1.29 volt).I want to see as low temps as possible wihout going to extreme cooling.Should I add an alphacool ut60 240?


A tad bit high for 4.5, I get better temps using a Hyper 212







. Which fans do you have? My old Silver Arrow @ 4.9 kept cores ~60 and the cpu temp ~72c.

edit: saw your specs, you have GTs. Do you have any fans as air intakes for your case?


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A tad bit high for 4.5, I get better temps using a Hyper 212
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Which fans do you have? My old Silver Arrow @ 4.9 kept cores ~60 and the cpu temp ~72c.


GT AP-15 at 12v.Maybe is it the high ambient?

Waterblock is seated good,I recently did a tim review and temps are almost the same...

Or should I clean the waterblock?When I got it (3 weeks ago)I just used hot water to clean it but didn't open it to clean the inside..

PS.Block was 2nd handed


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> GT AP-15 at 12v.Maybe is it the high ambient?
> Waterblock is seated good,I recently did a tim review and temps are almost the same...
> Or should I clean the waterblock?When I got it (3 weeks ago)I just used hot water to clean it but didn't open it to clean the inside..
> PS.Block was 2nd handed


Do you have any other fans as intakes for your case?

What is your ambient? Its a little hot in my area but nothing dramatic with ~27-30c. Ill run some tests using my Hyper 212 I'm using in the interim. My Antec Kuhler 920 arrives tomorrow so I can also give you my results.

If all else fails, break down your loop and inspect for any clogging or debris.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do you have any other fans as intakes for your case?
> What is your ambient? Its a little hot in my area but nothing dramatic with ~27-30c. Ill run some tests using my Hyper 212 I'm using in the interim. My Antec Kuhler 920 arrives tomorrow so I can also give you my results.
> If all else fails, break down your loop and inspect for any clogging or debris.


I said in the previous post,ambient is 33.I will end up cleaning the cpu block,as it was the only thing that I got 2nd handed so that may be the problem...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> I said in the previous post,ambient is 33.I will end up cleaning the cpu block,as it was the only thing that I got 2nd handed so that may be the problem...


hmmm. with that ambient it would seem to be ok. Open up your case to see if it helps


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Thats a pretty high ambient. That will definitely affect your temps...


----------



## conntick

If i was sitting in a room that was 33c i would invest in an air conditioner/moving to Antarctica before I worried about my waterloop


----------



## azeller09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renaldi17*
> 
> actually i use two rads, swiftech 220 and ek xtx 120 hidden near the psu. For cpu I use i7 2600k, and gpu gtx 680. Temps are pretty good with my setup, my cpu idle at 24-26c, and my gpu idle at 27-30c, both cpu and gpu load around 43-45c.


Well, anyways, you have the the nicest looking 650D system i've seen!


----------



## simonfredette

yeah for canada , 33 is great beach weather , even we dont live in that kind of heat ! thats rough , 19-23 is where its at for summer time !!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Here is how the masterkleer UV Purple looks on my old build -
> UV -


Hmm not really what i was expecting for final look.... Ugh so hard to choose the color scheme, might just go black on black with uv light....

btw what are you using for lighting behind your monitor?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> when i first saw your case i thought it was a dragon rider until i noticed your HDD slots lol. nicw looking so far


Here is an updated picture of the Dragon Slayer








Still running the Q6600 but changed out the GPU for a GTX 460 because I needed a better folder. I recently installed a custom water loop on the CPU using a Raystorm block, EX240 Rad, Bitspower Res, and a swiftech pump. I put some vids on my youtube account. http://www.youtube.com/user/piratemods?feature=results_main


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Need some advice here:
> I wanna mount this :
> https://www.techbay.no/product.html/bitspower-vanntank-z-multi-80
> on top of this
> https://www.techbay.no/product.html/bitspower-d5-/-mcp655-pumpetopp-sort
> using either one of these two
> https://www.techbay.no/product.html/bitspower-bp-wtp-c28
> OR
> https://www.techbay.no/product.html/bitspower-gjengekonverter-1/4bsp?category_id=98
> Will that be sufficeint for holding the whole res ?
> I dont have an option to mount it anywhere else ( arc mini with a full 360 rad..not much room left.
> ALSO...
> Idle temps on my 3570 k (4,2 Ghz) with my sectre pros on max rpm ( 1200) is 30 celsius....isn't that a tad much ? I¨m using EK nickel plexi CSW with EK coolant
> The fans are spinning 1200 rpm, and the rad is a 360 coolgate 60 mmthick, 7 fpi..
> After 6 hrs of prime 95 I got up to around 58 degrees celsius.. I'm worried the rad won't be sufficient for my 670 FTW , even topugh thumb of rule says it will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (120 rad per component)
> I can install a 240 rad..but would rather spend them on a MCP655 since my mcp355 is very hot ( in my opinion), and it looks nicer (A)
> Please help a poor guy with the upgrade bug


If that res isn't very heavy you should be ok just mounting to the pump top. G 1/4 to G 1/4 fittings you linked should work if you don't have anything else alongside the fitting on the BP top. If you DO have fittings side by side on the pump top you will need to use a longer extension instead of those short ones.


----------



## rotary7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the case open or do you have your panels vented fro the bottom rad?
> A tad bit high for 4.5, I get better temps using a Hyper 212
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Which fans do you have? My old Silver Arrow @ 4.9 kept cores ~60 and the cpu temp ~72c.
> edit: saw your specs, you have GTs. Do you have any fans as air intakes for your case?


Its vented on the bottom but In those pics i end up taking the front cover off to show more for the pics


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is why 932 is king of the cheap cases. 6 Bays 5 HDD sliders and will hold a 360 right off the bat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got my Dremel 395 the other day, so soo as I get a little more money I'm goin postal on my doors... Okay only on one. The other I'm gonna keep it understated mostly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You forgot to mention that it can hold a 2x200mm rad up top as well
Click to expand...

Not without completely removing the 5.25 bay.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> I blocked my GTX680 today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heatkiller GPU X3
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> -


That looks so awesome for a shiny block/backplate combo. An damn if that tubing isn't nice and tight. Love it!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> So whats up with the new EK block designs? Not liking them at all and I think I might just keep my blocks for future use instead of selling them if they're going to stick with it


They are sticking with them 'til Eddy visits that rectalcraniotomy specialist. You don't want to give up your previous EK blocks because Supremacy was incorrectly named. It should have been named "Inferiority complex", cause it's nothing close to superior let alone supreme.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> yeah for canada , 33 is great beach weather , even we dont live in that kind of heat ! thats rough , 19-23 is where its at for summer time !!


Yeah well it was 33c here today. System was 46c til I turned the AC on. Wish I lived on the coast, temps would be much better. It gets muggy here cause we're due north of the River with a highway next to it. All that blacktop reflecting the heat into the breeze is a killer.









~Ceadder


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*


that mood lighting is too legit. it's like a gamer's _Lounge_.

(emphasis on the lounge part hahah)

Doing that when i finish my new computer too!


----------



## Alfaa

My friend and I finished his Prodigy build. I jealous because it looks significantly better than mine










Spoiler: Open Me












We are currently in the phase of cutting a hole in the side panel so you can see the waterblock/motherboard. Thats what the white light is for









Thoughts?


----------



## jagz

Installed my GTX 690 block today, my loop still isn't very pretty but it's leagues ahead of where it was prior to 690 block.





Phobya G-Changer 240 w/ CM Excalibur's on the bottom.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> yeah for canada , 33 is great beach weather , even we dont live in that kind of heat ! thats rough , 19-23 is where its at for summer time !!


speak for yourself..lol.i live in windsor ontario where it's so
hot that if you look close enough i'm sure you can spot satan
somewhere hangin around and flippin the finger. some days we were at 38*C + Humid (w/humidex it felt
like 46 to 48*C somedays) it truly is the hot sweltering armpit of canada lol..
thank god for central air or my temps would be off the charts.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Installed my GTX 690 block today, my loop still isn't very pretty but it's leagues ahead of where it was prior to 690 block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phobya G-Changer 240 w/ CM Excalibur's on the bottom.


Looks awesome


----------



## audioholic

Guys any suggestions on how to mount a 150mm res in my Vulcan?
If you need photos look at my build log.
I just picked up a FTW 670 thanks to EVGA and the way the reservoir was it just won't work with the extra half inch from the new card.
I'm not at home right now to try out placements unfortunately.
So any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Installed my GTX 690 block today, my loop still isn't very pretty but it's leagues ahead of where it was prior to 690 block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phobya G-Changer 240 w/ CM Excalibur's on the bottom.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks awesome


Thanks alot, and to think a month ago I was still on air and hesitant to WC. Installed CPU block a few weeks ago.. then added the 690's block today (and the 690 a few days ago). Couldn't have done it without all of the questions you guys answered here, aswell as things I learned elsewhere on the WC forum.

GPU [email protected] temp prior: 73c-81c
GPU [email protected] temp now: 41c


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Thanks alot, and to think a month ago I was still on air and hesitant to WC. Installed CPU block a few weeks ago.. then added the 690's block today (and the 690 a few days ago). Couldn't have done it without all of the questions you guys answered here, aswell as things I learned elsewhere on the WC forum.
> GPU [email protected] temp prior: 73c-81c
> GPU [email protected] temp now: 41c


lol, funny, I gave up water a month ago. I'm loving air cooling and its challenges. Gpu temps are not the same but still pretty impressive as long as you have the proper air going to the case. The cpu on the other hand with a large cooler seems to have matched it under load. Idles is a tad bit higher but nothing dramatic. Enjoy that 690; what a beastly card


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Guys any suggestions on how to mount a 150mm res in my Vulcan?
> If you need photos look at my build log.
> I just picked up a FTW 670 thanks to EVGA and the way the reservoir was it just won't work with the extra half inch from the new card.
> I'm not at home right now to try out placements unfortunately.
> So any help would be greatly appreciated!


Take a look at the rad/res/pump combo I put together for use in my Dragon Slayer case.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFPjdnLqtPg&feature=plcp

I looked at your build log and it seems that your had a similar idea. With my design you could even fabricate an offset mounting bracket to give yourself more room in front of the GPU.


----------



## superericla




----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> My friend and I finished his Prodigy build. I jealous because it looks significantly better than mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Open Me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are currently in the phase of cutting a hole in the side panel so you can see the waterblock/motherboard. Thats what the white light is for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


My only thought is I so want to build a HTPC in one of those, the case is amazing.

The window will look great









Amazing how you can fit a full size GPU and water cooling in such a small case and not look cramp.

Did or have you uncounted many problems fitting everything?


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Noticed something strange on that tube in the bitspwr res..loop has been running 5 days and have only distilled and one kill coil..that red color is only visible when holding a light up to it.. I did handle that tube before installing... What do you guys think?


When I tore my loop down I had the same thing on mine. Whatever it was it wiped right off.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hmm not really what i was expecting for final look.... Ugh so hard to choose the color scheme, might just go black on black with uv light....
> btw what are you using for lighting behind your monitor?


These http://www.revoltec.net/revoltec.net/index.php?StoryID=7&ArticleID=355&WorldID=330&websiteLang=en


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> My only thought is I so want to build a HTPC in one of those, the case is amazing.
> The window will look great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing how you can fit a full size GPU and water cooling in such a small case and not look cramp.
> Did or have you uncounted many problems fitting everything?


It wasnt that hard. The only problem we had was that the crossflow radiator was a little tiny bit too long so we couldent put the front fans in. Its not that big of a deal, though as those corsair fans blow alot of air, even through a radiator.

Oh, and the power supply needed a little modification. Because the sleaved cables couldn't be bent enough we got a couple of spacers and longer screws to let the power supply hang out the back about 1 CM. Honestly, though, it doesnt look that bad.

Also, that paper is covering one of the tightest bundles of power supply cables you have probably seen ever.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> These http://www.revoltec.net/revoltec.net/index.php?StoryID=7&ArticleID=355&WorldID=330&websiteLang=en


Hey man do you have it mounted on your wall or on you monitor??, think you could post a pic?

Wow $100shipped is the cheapest I could find this thing...
Might be cheaper to find a defferent product to get the purple light lol


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> speak for yourself..lol.i live in windsor ontario where it's so
> hot that if you look close enough i'm sure you can spot satan
> somewhere hangin around and flippin the finger. some days we were at 38*C + Humid (w/humidex it felt
> like 46 to 48*C somedays) it truly is the hot sweltering armpit of canada lol..
> thank god for central air or my temps would be off the charts.


Ive been around windsor , I live in Trenton now though , and ive been in the states ( little rock arkansas ) for training on a new plane ( canadian air force ) and here its been averageing 42-46 before humidex , its 33 at night ! ridiculous


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1007229/width/500/height/1000]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1007229/width/500/height/1000[/URL]
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1007231/][IMG alt=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1007231/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]


Have I meantioned I do not like you right now








Jealousy +1


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> When I tore my loop down I had the same thing on mine. Whatever it was it wiped right off.


Dunno man, looks kinda cool in a way


----------



## tuffarts

Quick qestion

Can I plug one of these;

KOOLANCE PMP-400

Into one of these;

Lamptron FC9 Fan Controller Power Output:Up to 50 watts per channel

And expect it to work?

If so, would this work also.

NZXT Sentry Mesh 30W Fan Controller

If none of these work, what does?


----------



## khemist

Yes they both should work fine, i have mine plugged into a Zalman ZM-MFC1 , just turn it up and down as needed.

Just make sure it's not too low when you are turning on pc or it will not start.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey man do you have it mounted on your wall or on you monitor??, think you could post a pic?
> Wow $100shipped is the cheapest I could find this thing...
> Might be cheaper to find a defferent product to get the purple light lol


They are cheap to buy and i'm sure there are lots on ebay sold under different names, search for "ambient mood home theatre lighting kit" on ebay - $30.



Doesn't do purple but does red blue green and colours in between.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> When I tore my loop down I had the same thing on mine. Whatever it was it wiped right off.


I was hoping its the residue from my finger prints and not some growth already.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ordered my 690 hydro copper block and two more ap15s today









....still have to order most my loop tho


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffarts*
> 
> Quick qestion
> 
> Can I plug one of these;
> 
> KOOLANCE PMP-400
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Into one of these;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lamptron FC9 Fan Controller Power Output:Up to 50 watts per channel
> 
> 
> 
> And expect it to work?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: If so, would this work also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NZXT Sentry Mesh 30W Fan Controller
> 
> 
> 
> If none of these work, what does?


Yeah it'll work. I have the first two channels on my RheoSmart 3 as my DDC-1T channels. I have one full on and the other is as a backup should my temp alarm hit the roof due to an inactive pump. Always good to have a backup. Running two pumps however would increase the heat too much atm until I get my GPU under water and another Radiator to offset the increase. Although I wouldn't mind getting a heatsink for them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> They are cheap to buy and i'm sure there are lots on ebay sold under different names, search for "ambient mood home theatre lighting kit" on ebay - $30.
> 
> Doesn't do purple but does red blue green and colours in between.


That sure looks like purple to me lol


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys here's another update on my rig "Letha' Threat" I started a build log this morning. My storage drive died so I lost most of my pics. But I will be posting the ones I still have on the camera and my phone later on tonight to show as much of the process as possible. This is still an ongoing build. I would say it's about 50% where I want it to be.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah it'll work. I have the first two channels on my RheoSmart 3 as my DDC-1T channels. I have one full on and the other is as a backup should my temp alarm hit the roof due to an inactive pump. Always good to have a backup. Running two pumps however would increase the heat too much atm until I get my GPU under water and another Radiator to offset the increase. Although I wouldn't mind getting a heatsink for them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Running 2 pumps increases the fluid temp by such a small amount you wouldnt notice it.


----------



## lowfat

Running a second DDC won't increase water temp much at all. However unless your loop is rather restrictive or you have have your pumps on some sort of fan controller, your pump temps would increase drastically.

The Lamptron FC9 shouldn't have a problem powering a DDC3.25, according to its specifications anyways. The controller likely would start to throw a lot of heat off if you plan on running a pump @ 8-10V though. Might want to make sure you have some good air flow over the fan controller.


----------



## Willhemmens

My Mayhems collection is growing!










I also have a Mayhems 360 (The first one off the production line) but it doesn't work well with Aurora.

I'll be putting the Aurora in a few days.

Before adding Dye - I didn't get all of the old coolant out so you can still see some in the res.










After










Here's a video of me doing it. It's quite cool to see how long it takes to get around the system.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah it'll work. I have the first two channels on my RheoSmart 3 as my DDC-1T channels. I have one full on and the other is as a backup should my temp alarm hit the roof due to an inactive pump. Always good to have a backup. Running two pumps however would increase the heat too much atm until I get my GPU under water and another Radiator to offset the increase. Although I wouldn't mind getting a heatsink for them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running 2 pumps increases the fluid temp by such a small amount you wouldnt notice it.
Click to expand...

Oddly enough I did notice it even though you are correct. +1-3c increase depending on ambient.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> I also have a Mayhems 360 (The first one off the production line) but it doesn't work well with Aurora.


I did the testing of that rad for Mayhem,i still have the prototype.
You will love it,one of the best rads i have got.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did the testing of that rad for Mayhem,i still have the prototype.
> You will love it,one of the best rads i have got.


It' awesome, I love it really. It'll be something I never get rid of because I really missed my Thermochill radiators when I sold them but these are even better and the fact I bought it new and it's the first retail one made, makes it all the more awesome.

Here she is:


----------



## moparbob7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> My Mayhems collection is growing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have a Mayhems 360 (The first one off the production line) but it doesn't work well with Aurora.
> I'll be putting the Aurora in a few days.
> Before adding Dye - I didn't get all of the old coolant out so you can still see some in the res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a video of me doing it. It's quite cool to see how long it takes to get around the system.


Thats sweet!!! How much is the Mayhems stuff and where do you buy it at? So you have to flush your system out pretty often when using it right?

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## Egameman

was thinking of getting one of the Mayhems 360 rads, but is it worth it when I already have a quite new Coolgate 360 rad ?

I have very little space between the intake for the rad/fans, and to the top of my desk ( my comp is inside kinda of a closet thing...blame the wife not me) so I was thinking maybe I need something more powerful to cope ( did i spell that right? ) for the lack of space. I can only have my rad as a intake, as if it was exhaust it would " bounce" up in the roof and back in,...I think.


----------



## sortableturnip

Love the video showing the color change!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mayhems "Deep Purple"
> 
> 
> 
> This is primochill uv blue but it looks more purple tbh:


How many drops of dye did you add to that?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> was thinking of getting one of the Mayhems 360 rads, but is it worth it when I already have a quite new Coolgate 360 rad ?
> I have very little space between the intake for the rad/fans, and to the top of my desk ( my comp is inside kinda of a closet thing...blame the wife not me) so I was thinking maybe I need something more powerful to cope ( did i spell that right? ) for the lack of space. I can only have my rad as a intake, as if it was exhaust it would " bounce" up in the roof and back in,...I think.


Unless you've got a thing for Mayhems and want the advantages of the Mayhems rad, there isn't much point. Personally I 90% of the time run my system at stock clocks as for what I do it's complete overkill (I'd be fine with an AMD Fusion setup) and I found that the mayhems 360 and my little 280 could easily cool my CPU passively. Aslong as I'm just doing my normal stuff like web browsing, not stress testing. I'm doubtful you'll notice anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Thats sweet!!! How much is the Mayhems stuff and where do you buy it at? So you have to flush your system out pretty often when using it right?
> Thanks,
> Bob


It's not the cheapest stuff on the market but when you work out how much a bottle of Dye costs and how many changes of clean fluid it will dye, it's much more cost effective than other brands.
Buy Mayhems everything here: http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/ Else go here and check the Resellers: http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/
Nope, not at all. X1 and Pastel could (in theory) be run without issue for years.
Aurora is a hole different kettle of fish though, I found that it lasted for about 2 or 3 months. When I say it lasted that long, I mean that's how long it took to collect in all different places in my system (mostly in the radiators).
Emptying and refilling often loosens all the particles and brings it back to life for a bit though.

You'll find after running Aurora that it stays in your system for a long time, unless you thoroughly clean the components separately. I've changed out my coolant 6 or more times (3 times today) and there is still particles in the coolant (Photos above).

I'm uploading a couple of clips to Youtube of the Extinction (Green) Aurora I just put in. Video was short about 5 minutes after putting it in.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Love the video showing the color change!


Cheers


----------



## Egameman

guess I¨ll stick with my rad, I love Mayhems, but don¨t really have the cash for it atm..rather buy a new D5 ;O

Will be buying the ice white,light red and a bottle of red dye soon tough









Will post them pictures when everything is good to go


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> guess I¨ll stick with my rad, I love Mayhems, but don¨t really have the cash for it atm..rather buy a new D5 ;O
> Will be buying the ice white,light red and a bottle of red dye soon tough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post them pictures when everything is good to go


You'll probably see better performance from another D5 too.

Here's the Aurora video!

I took this video just 5 minutes after putting the coolant in.
The coolant looks waaaaaay better in real life.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> How many drops of dye did you add to that?


about ten drops using ~1.5L of distilled. That tube lasted for a few days before the dreaded clouding occurred









edit: btw, quote one pic and put the rest in "spoiler"


----------



## moparbob7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Unless you've got a thing for Mayhems and want the advantages of the Mayhems rad, there isn't much point. Personally I 90% of the time run my system at stock clocks as for what I do it's complete overkill (I'd be fine with an AMD Fusion setup) and I found that the mayhems 360 and my little 280 could easily cool my CPU passively. Aslong as I'm just doing my normal stuff like web browsing, not stress testing. I'm doubtful you'll notice anything.
> It's not the cheapest stuff on the market but when you work out how much a bottle of Dye costs and how many changes of clean fluid it will dye, it's much more cost effective than other brands.
> Buy Mayhems everything here: http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/ Else go here and check the Resellers: http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/
> Nope, not at all. X1 and Pastel could (in theory) be run without issue for years.
> Aurora is a hole different kettle of fish though, I found that it lasted for about 2 or 3 months. When I say it lasted that long, I mean that's how long it took to collect in all different places in my system (mostly in the radiators).
> Emptying and refilling often loosens all the particles and brings it back to life for a bit though.
> You'll find after running Aurora that it stays in your system for a long time, unless you thoroughly clean the components separately. I've changed out my coolant 6 or more times (3 times today) and there is still particles in the coolant (Photos above).
> I'm uploading a couple of clips to Youtube of the Extinction (Green) Aurora I just put in. Video was short about 5 minutes after putting it in.
> Cheers


Yeah that is what I was talking about the Aurora but the other stuff will last a long time then? How often should you flush it out? I am new to liquid cooling and want to build a cooling system. I currtenly have the H50....lol

What is the difference between the X1 and the Pastel? Which is better. What about distilled water? I want to use some color like blue and have the UV affect. I am thinking about getting the FusionQ stuff.


----------



## Egameman

the Aurora is soooo nice ! Uses it a while in ny retired build, and mint Green.

Oh, not another d5 , but i want to replace ny ddc with bitspower top because i think it a bit hot, get worried everytime i touch the pump, and would like more flow









Will ve getting a d5 with the bitspower 150 upgrade kit.

Going to be a fight fit in my Arc Mini









How kong are you gonna let the Aurora be in the system ?

Had mine for 3 months







np !!!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Yeah that is what I was talking about the Aurora but the other stuff will last a long time then? How often should you flush it out? I am new to liquid cooling and want to build a cooling system. I currtenly have the H50....lol
> What is the difference between the X1 and the Pastel? Which is better. What about distilled water? I want to use some color like blue and have the UV affect. I am thinking about getting the FusionQ stuff.


I think everything you want to know and need to know about any of Mayhems products can be answered *HERE* .

Mayhem them self even will respond to questions


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Yeah that is what I was talking about the Aurora but the other stuff will last a long time then? How often should you flush it out? I am new to liquid cooling and want to build a cooling system. I currtenly have the H50....lol
> What is the difference between the X1 and the Pastel? Which is better. What about distilled water? I want to use some color like blue and have the UV affect. I am thinking about getting the FusionQ stuff.


Yup, Pastel and X1 will last ages. I'd change it out ever year or so. You'll find yourself upgrading stuff before then though. I started with a H50, they're great.
X1 is clear and Pastel is a thick colour. It's best to just check them out. Distilled water + Dye is fine too but doesn't have the corrosion & scale inhibitors Mayhems coolants do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> the Aurora is soooo nice ! Uses it a while in ny retired build, and mint Green.
> Oh, not another d5 , but i want to replace ny ddc with bitspower top because i think it a bit hot, get worried everytime i touch the pump, and would like more flow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will ve getting a d5 with the bitspower 150 upgrade kit.
> Going to be a fight fit in my Arc Mini
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How kong are you gonna let the Aurora be in the system ?
> Had mine for 3 months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> np !!!


Until it disappears. It'll probably be a couple of months but I've got another bottle sitting right next to me for when it does!


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You'll probably see better performance from another D5 too.
> Here's the Aurora video!
> I took this video just 5 minutes after putting the coolant in.
> The coolant looks waaaaaay better in real life.


wait so this is just plain Aurora? Looks waaaaaaaaaay better irl.
In all of the sale photos it looks alot darker. Was going to get mint green but if u can confirm this is plain Aurora i will get


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> about ten drops using ~1.5L of distilled. That tube lasted for a few days before the dreaded clouding occurred
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: btw, quote one pic and put the rest in "spoiler"


Damn... I only put two drops in mine and it's somewhat clouded.


----------



## ChrisTahoe

Moved from a Phantom 410 to a Corsair C70. I wanted some handles.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisTahoe*
> 
> Moved from a Phantom 410 to a Corsair C70. I wanted some handles.


Thats the exact transition I was going to take, however I decided to stick with the phantom for how much I love this case. I have a strong feeling when I end up upgrading to a different case, I will end up custom designing and making it myself. Nothing suits my desired effect of housing for my components, and have been sketching things out lots on my spare time but have not come up with something that I really like yet. That C70 looks awesome though


----------



## Qu1ckset

So whats "BETTER" for you w/c systems, premixes or distilled water?
So im assuming premixes with uv dies and etc are more maintenance meaning sooner drains/refill and distilled water lasts long without maintenance but not as healthy for the system in comparison ?


----------



## simonfredette

distilled with a killcoil isnt any worse for your components than a premix , but ideally you do need at least a killcoil and there are some additives that are better to have if you have nickel plating , same as there are things you dont want with nickel plating . Any premix you have to flush your system periodically , with distilled you never really NEED to change the water unless you are seeing sediment forming in the res , most people running distilled only ever change the water if they make changes to the loop and at that point were talking about a 4L ( good fellow canadian !!Ontarian at that .. ) jug at wal mart for 88 cents ! If you want colored coolant Id still go with a dye and distilled before any premixed colored coolant , same for UV


----------



## Pis




----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> distilled with a killcoil isnt any worse for your components than a premix , but ideally you do need at least a killcoil and there are some additives that are better to have if you have nickel plating , same as there are things you dont want with nickel plating . Any premix you have to flush your system periodically , with distilled you never really NEED to change the water unless you are seeing sediment forming in the res , most people running distilled only ever change the water if they make changes to the loop and at that point were talking about a 4L ( good fellow canadian !!Ontarian at that .. ) jug at wal mart for 88 cents ! If you want colored coolant Id still go with a dye and distilled before any premixed colored coolant , same for UV


with distilled and dye, can you still add uv additives?

man im just having so much trouble choosing what tubing/fluids i want, i want a purple uv look to my build, i was liking khemist tubing look on his rig with the Masterkleer purple uv tubing, but others where saying there tubing is bad for your loop?

I wouldnt mind purple uv fluid so my reservoir would be purple as well but i only found one pic (the one below) and he said in person its looks more blue then purple, i cant find pics of anyone elses rig with clear tubing and purple uv fluid.









On Feser's website it shows Feser Active Purple UV Dye looking like this, which looks amazing and i would be happy if it looked like that in my loop, but if it were to not look exactly like that id be pretty upset...


----------



## Ceadderman

I would say that if you don't have your system in a well lit room you can pretty much forgo the Kill Coil. I'm only running Copper and Nickel plate so it's not like I have much interaction going on in my loop. Changed coolant after 3 months and since it's a 24/7 system no need for a flush although the next time I change coolant I'll run a flush to make sure I don't have any growth forming. Res is crystal clear though.









Anybody wanna Killcoil? I never used mine was and was considering selling it, hasn't even come out of the container. If I have any interest in it I'll create a sale thread for it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> I took this video just 5 minutes after putting the coolant in.
> The coolant looks waaaaaay better in real life.


It looks pretty damn good on Youtube, too!


----------



## Futan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pis*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like that almost perfectly straight tube from your rad to pump a lot. XD


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would say that if you don't have your system in a well lit room you can pretty much forgo the Kill Coil. I'm only running Copper and Nickel plate so it's not like I have much interaction going on in my loop. Changed coolant after 3 months and since it's a 24/7 system no need for a flush although the next time I change coolant I'll run a flush to make sure I don't have any growth forming. Res is crystal clear though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody wanna Killcoil? I never used mine was and was considering selling it, hasn't even come out of the container. If I have any interest in it I'll create a sale thread for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I've been using Primochill PC Ice in my loop for 2 years and have had no issues at all with it. When I added an additional 120 rad to the loop recently, I drained and took apart the blocks to see if there was any buildup. No buildup and no particles in the fluid either.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would say that if you don't have your system in a well lit room you can pretty much forgo the Kill Coil. I'm only running Copper and Nickel plate so it's not like I have much interaction going on in my loop. Changed coolant after 3 months and since it's a 24/7 system no need for a flush although the next time I change coolant I'll run a flush to make sure I don't have any growth forming. Res is crystal clear though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody wanna Killcoil? I never used mine was and was considering selling it, hasn't even come out of the container. If I have any interest in it I'll create a sale thread for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm interested in the killcoil. I run distilled H2O with a silver coil inside my res. I have a HK Nickle plated GPU block, XSPC Raystorm, TFC 240 rad and a Swiftech MCR120 with copper and brass chambers. I guess I'm good without any special additives? My first distilled H2O loop.


----------



## xlink64

Finally finished upgrading my rig a few days ago. Two new GTX 680's, new RAM, and got rid of that plasticizer primochill tubing to go with durelene and Mayhem's clear UV blue dye.


----------



## Aleckazee

What would you guys recommend for a dye? I have this premix stuff easily available but no dye's. I'd rather dye so I have some control over the colour. Also, does UV reactive mean you need UV lights to see the colour?


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> What would you guys recommend for a dye? I have this premix stuff easily available but no dye's. I'd rather dye so I have some control over the colour. Also, does UV reactive mean you need UV lights to see the colour?


lol yes man!







to get the "uv effect"


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> wait so this is just plain Aurora? Looks waaaaaaaaaay better irl.
> In all of the sale photos it looks alot darker. Was going to get mint green but if u can confirm this is plain Aurora i will get


Yup this is plain Extinction Aurora. Those photos were of Emerald Green and Yellow mixed.


----------



## a.t.watson

1st time water cooling , not as big as others in this section but ill put some pics up


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a.t.watson*
> 
> 1st time water cooling , not as big as others in this section but ill put some pics up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice clean looking rig.Nothing to be ashamed of there.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a.t.watson*
> 
> 1st time water cooling , not as big as others in this section but ill put some pics up


Very nice, +10 for overall. You did some great planning!


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> lol yes man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to get the "uv effect"


but what if I don't want the uv effect?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a.t.watson*
> 
> 1st time water cooling , not as big as others in this section but ill put some pics up


Nice and Clean..Great JOB











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## prznar1

this is the newest block from ek? with those circle design? they are horrid.... those fittings :/


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a.t.watson*
> 
> 1st time water cooling , not as big as others in this section but ill put some pics up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good job! My only advice would be to move the fitting highlighted to the other side of the block and shorten the tubing there


----------



## rotary7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> You'll probably see better performance from another D5 too.
> Here's the Aurora video!
> I took this video just 5 minutes after putting the coolant in.
> The coolant looks waaaaaay better in real life.


I have the same stuff but in blue, i end up taking it out because when i start gaming, the smell from that stuff didn't seem right to me, just keep water in my system seems better


----------



## a.t.watson

That is the fitting Im swapping out I ordered a new 1 today
And yes that is the gpu block with circles ek make the only block for that card that I know of


----------



## Willhemmens

Aurora is designed for show use only really. I've not noticed any strange smell personally but it's not meant for regular systems either.


----------



## zzorro

here some update pic..any advice a welcome


----------



## num1son

^^^^That's pretty much just sex!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a.t.watson*
> 
> And yes that is the gpu block with circles ek make the only block for that card that I know of


I am in the same boat for a full cover solution..not too excited about the ek nickel thing either..and not the Prettiest of Blocks


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> but what if I don't want the uv effect?


than dont put uv lights and it will just look like a normal color.
say the dye is a green color before the lights but when u add the lights i's bright glowing green. thats all it does, lol.
there would be no pint to get uv dye or mix if ur not using uv lighting. There are plenty of non uv dyes and mixes


----------



## Aleckazee

thanks.

can anyone tell me if koolance coolant is any good? will it clog my blocks or change colour?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> here some update pic..any advice a welcome


Very clean wiring job. Love the multi-colored acrylic blocks up front. I really like the straight lined tubing that you've done in the 1st pic above, but you went away from it at the bottom of the 2nd pic and went with arch shaped. Would really like to see that more uniform. Plus, maybe have 2 colors (blue and white perhaps) in the sleeving on the wires to make them pop more. Great build!









Something else I found that would accessorize your build...a blue SLI Bridge!


----------



## ericld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


You should check out his FB page. Brain overload:thumb:


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> here some update pic..any advice a welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have advice. GIMME!!

Real nice, what kind of tube?


----------



## simonfredette

I like that the routing of the tubing gives it a kind of helix look ! its really well planned


----------



## Egameman

does this seem nice







?

Any input ?

you can link to US pages if you want to..









Decided to don't buy a MCP655, and rather buy compression fittingfs an QD's instead









and one rotary is costs 24 dollars here in NOrway ....INSANE...QD's cost around the same









so this is around 710 dollars of hardware ... my bank account hates me right now


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> 
> does this seem nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> Any input ?
> you can link to US pages if you want to..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to don't buy a MCP655, and rather buy compression fittingfs an QD's instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one rotary is costs 24 dollars here in NOrway ....INSANE...QD's cost around the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so this is around 710 dollars of hardware ... my bank account hates me right now


Check out some of the fittings here:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/firo.html

They will ship to Norway from checking out the site.


----------



## Egameman

Thnx









YEah performance pcs are good but with shipping and NOrways 25 % tax plus tax fee for the paper work it¨s very little to save







. and then I¨d rather support the only real watercooling shop in Norway

But thanks again


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would say that if you don't have your system in a well lit room you can pretty much forgo the Kill Coil. I'm only running Copper and Nickel plate so it's not like I have much interaction going on in my loop. Changed coolant after 3 months and since it's a 24/7 system no need for a flush although the next time I change coolant I'll run a flush to make sure I don't have any growth forming. Res is crystal clear though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody wanna Killcoil? I never used mine was and was considering selling it, hasn't even come out of the container. If I have any interest in it I'll create a sale thread for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm interested in the killcoil. I run distilled H2O with a silver coil inside my res. I have a HK Nickle plated GPU block, XSPC Raystorm, TFC 240 rad and a Swiftech MCR120 with copper and brass chambers. I guess I'm good without any special additives? My first distilled H2O loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Kay guys, I'm still unpacking from the floor rennovation the owner did to this place so once I did it up I'll be posting it in Marketplace. I'm getting rid of stuff I'm not using, so when I do post it I'll leave a reminder here that it's up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Im curious why alot of you guys decide to use normal compression fittings from gpu to cpu instead of angled fittings.
what i usually see









and why you guys don't do it like this
















was thinking about doing mine like this









i was just searching random rv02/rv03 watercooling builds on google and found this pic, what do you think of this mounting style for the res?


----------



## simonfredette

its kinda cool and its really nice coolant too. Usually people use the angled fittings because they want short straight lines between components instead of larger radius curves..


----------



## ginger_nuts

A fair bit of extra weight put on the video card


----------



## num1son

Extra money you don't have to spend if there is no kink.


----------



## mironccr345

Some people like the curves, like me.


----------



## simonfredette

so do I , my hose is much too long efficiency wise but I just like to see the tubing , I will shorten it though. .



also the hardrive isnt just hanging there anymore ..


----------



## Qu1ckset

Far enough, im just going to buy enough fittings to do it both ways and decide how i like it that way... i just want it really clean looking compared to my first watercooling build.


----------



## AMC

Angled fittings cost twice as much and that adds up quickly. I personally prefer straight fittings and then just curving the tubing.


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> so do I , my hose is much too long efficiency wise but I just like to see the tubing , I will shorten it though. .
> 
> also the hardrive isnt just hanging there anymore ..






Nice we have the same case and psu at least that's what my case looked like when I started this project. How do you like the ZT PSU ?

Before


After


----------



## SenorRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> Angled fittings cost twice as much and that adds up quickly. I personally prefer straight fittings and then just curving the tubing.


I am with you on that. I only have two angled fittings on my whole loop, and that is just to avoid kinking the line.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Im curious why alot of you guys decide to use normal compression fittings from gpu to cpu instead of angled fittings.
> 
> i was just searching random rv02/rv03 watercooling builds on google and found this pic, what do you think of this mounting style for the res?


I like my video cards stationary.









When I had my RV02 I just made a little platform for the pump/res in the bottom of the HD cage:



Not the most awesome WC ever in a RV02, but it got the job done.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Nice we have the same case and psu at least that's what my case looked like when I started this project. How do you like the ZT PSU ?
> Before
> 
> After
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics


I like it , no problems so far , the only thing there is now is that I would like to use an old 550 ti as a physx card but im using all my 6/8 pin connectors with my 2 570s . limited if you wanted to go tri sli , but then again would you really want to try on 750W


----------



## Balsagna

Man, can't wait till I move to Keesler AFB in the new home. Will be doing my computer room and will be water-cooling my rig again









Will be inside the Switch 810 this time around and can't wait. I thought about selling this Mobo and picking up the Maximus V and using water on it. I will probably go with a Red/Black/White theme.


----------



## sortableturnip

Would love to have the angled fittings in my build, but during my last upgrade, I didn't have enough moolah left for them. Next upgrade, though, I want to try hard copper tubes


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Man, can't wait till I move to Keesler AFB in the new home. Will be doing my computer room and will be water-cooling my rig again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be inside the Switch 810 this time around and can't wait. I thought about selling this Mobo and picking up the Maximus V and using water on it. I will probably go with a Red/Black/White theme.


Im at little rock afb on training for the c-130J , royal canadian air force , hopefully keesler isnt as hot as here , this is just ridiculous !


----------



## Ceadderman

Had I not purchased angled fittings I'd probably have at least one of my GPU under water by now.









Don't get me wrong, I love my angled fittings but it would be much better to have no fan sound from my GPU.









~Ceadder


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> ...
> Decided to don't buy a MCP655, and rather buy compression fittingfs an QD's instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one rotary is costs 24 dollars here in NOrway ....INSANE...QD's cost around the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so this is around 710 dollars of hardware ... my bank account hates me right now


Have you considered checking highflow.nl?

The prices in Europe are considerably higher than in USA, but also posting/tax fees make it almost even if you consider to buy from USA...


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Have you considered checking highflow.nl?
> The prices in Europe are considerably higher than in USA, but also posting/tax fees make it almost even if you consider to buy from USA...






up, I saved around 20 dollars, so not much









Another question ,

Is the EK ddc x-res 100 with the same top as the normal ek ddc v2 top ?

Or is it better to buy only the v2 top, and for example a bitspower z 80 res with a male to male fitting ?

My poroblem is I'm not got to decide this stuff so I can buy a d5 and tank for it, and stick with my barbs, or I can buy a new ddc top and res, and buy compression fittings

Would I gain temp.drop by using a D5 with more L/ph ?

And would it be strong enough for 5 x 40 degreee adapters and one 90 degreee ?

aaah...If only I was a millionaire so I could buy it all


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Im at little rock afb on training for the c-130J , royal canadian air force , hopefully keesler isnt as hot as here , this is just ridiculous !


Oh, it's very hot here. I'm in San Antonio Texas right now and it's mad hot. The good side is that it's not that humid. Keesler on the otherhand, very humid since it's right next to a beach.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Oh, it's very hot here. I'm in San Antonio Texas right now and it's mad hot. The good side is that it's not that humid. Keesler on the otherhand, very humid since it's right next to a beach.


but on the bright side its next to a beach , little rock is just a sad place to live , even the strippers are useless, if I wanted to see a half naked girl with taped nips id go back to canada and to any bar where 18 year old go dancing .


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i was planning out what fittings and extenders i need for my build and when i looking at one of my fans attached to my h80 i noticed water residue on the fan, this isnt normal right? the h80 is not supposed to sweat right? i checked below to make sure it wasn't dripping and thank god it wasn't. so what are your thoughts on this? is it nfg now?


----------



## simonfredette

take it out of the system and run just the H80 on its own to see if you can find a leak, where we see people getting leaks most often is where the screws for the fan go in , they usually have screws that are too long and puncture the rad.. Obviously you would usually have seen that a while ago but its worth taking a look , if its the rad you can get an epoxy and fix it , if its around the tubing you can do the same just make sure the line is twisted the way you want because odds are it wont spin anymore . Dont give up hope though , its usually not much of a leak as long as you caught it before you lost too much liquid .


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> take it out of the system and run just the H80 on its own to see if you can find a leak, where we see people getting leaks most often is where the screws for the fan go in , they usually have screws that are too long and puncture the rad.. Obviously you would usually have seen that a while ago but its worth taking a look , if its the rad you can get an epoxy and fix it , if its around the tubing you can do the same just make sure the line is twisted the way you want because odds are it wont spin anymore . Dont give up hope though , its usually not much of a leak as long as you caught it before you lost too much liquid .


i dunno alot of work to do that, i would need to removed my mobo to remove two of the screws, might just chance it and hold it off for 3weeks and hope this pos lasts till i get my final watercooling parts and then throw this out...


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> i dunno alot of work to do that, i would need to removed my mobo to remove two of the screws, might just chance it and hold it off for 3weeks and hope this pos lasts till i get my final watercooling parts and then throw this out...


sounds like a plan , keep an eye on your temps , might even want to lower you overclock in case the cooler fails


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I have tons of angled fittings in my rig (over $200 worth) because clean runs were a priority and some spots were too tight for straight fittings. In fact, I think there is only 3 straight fittings in the loop and 2 of those are connecting a T-connector to my drain tap.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Have you considered checking highflow.nl?
> The prices in Europe are considerably higher than in USA, but also posting/tax fees make it almost even if you consider to buy from USA...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> up, I saved around 20 dollars, so not much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question ,
> 
> Is the EK ddc x-res 100 with the same top as the normal ek ddc v2 top ?
> 
> Or is it better to buy only the v2 top, and for example a bitspower z 80 res with a male to male fitting ?
> 
> My poroblem is I'm not got to decide this stuff so I can buy a d5 and tank for it, and stick with my barbs, or I can buy a new ddc top and res, and buy compression fittings
> 
> Would I gain temp.drop by using a D5 with more L/ph ?
> 
> And would it be strong enough for 5 x 40 degreee adapters and one 90 degreee ?
> 
> aaah...If only I was a millionaire so I could buy it all
Click to expand...

I believe it is the same tube but not having one I cannot say for sure. I went with a FrozenQ Res and went with a Male/Male fitting. If you go this route make sure to get a solid M/M rotary fitting. Makes it a little easier to get a leak free seal.









*Edit* I believe you need an adapter ring for the V2 if you go the EK Res Route. Eddy is a greedy bastage he should have a premade unit so us guys with V2 don't have to spend more money to get a clean look.









Go comps. Much cleaner looking and a leak free seal if you do it the right way. I suggest DDC but you're not in the States where you can get the cheapest DDCs', so either way works.









@Qu1ckset... +1 for what simon is suggesting. Definitely looks like a screw mounted too far up in that top left location.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I have tons of angled fittings in my rig (over $200 worth) because clean runs were a priority and some spots were too tight for straight fittings. In fact, I think there is only 3 straight fittings in the loop and 2 of those are connecting a T-connector to my drain tap.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


just priced out the fittings i need, and its going to cost me $240 before shipping


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yep they're not cheap for sure but totally worth it to get the build right...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe it is the same tube but not having one I cannot say for sure. I went with a FrozenQ Res and went with a Male/Male fitting. If you go this route make sure to get a solid M/M rotary fitting. Makes it a little easier to get a leak free seal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Qu1ckset... +1 for what simon is suggesting. Definitely looks like a screw mounted too far up in that top left location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


temps are still running strong 34degress on my 4.6ghz 2500k
are the fluids used in the h80 conductive?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Are you sure that residue on your fans is even wet? I have a very similar looking residue on my H80 fans but its been there since I first set it up last February. Must have been left over from manufacturing...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe it is the same tube but not having one I cannot say for sure. I went with a FrozenQ Res and went with a Male/Male fitting. If you go this route make sure to get a solid M/M rotary fitting. Makes it a little easier to get a leak free seal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Qu1ckset... +1 for what simon is suggesting. Definitely looks like a screw mounted too far up in that top left location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> temps are still running strong 34degress on my 4.6ghz 2500k
> are the fluids used in the h80 conductive?
Click to expand...

All fluid is conductive after the ions are charged. A leak is a leak and liquid is liquid.









Proceed with extreme caution.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> All fluid is conductive after the ions are charged. A leak is a leak and liquid is liquid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Proceed with extreme caution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


but isn't distilled water non-conductive because the ions/minerals removed is the process of making the water dead/distilled


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> All fluid is conductive after the ions are charged. A leak is a leak and liquid is liquid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Proceed with extreme caution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but isn't distilled water non-conductive because the ions/minerals removed is the process of making the water dead/distilled
Click to expand...

Correctomundo. The problem is that with use the ions get charged and the coolant starts to become conductive. The H80 like all the Hydro Series is not built with Distilled.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Here's a pic of my old H80 fan (retired H80 after installing loop) and there has always been this residue on it since I installed it. It actually is some kind of liquid but its always been there and never got worse...


----------



## Willhemmens

It's oil. Nothing to worry about.







It's common.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ya I just wiped it off so I can see if it gets worse, but after touching it, it kind of felt like oil but there wasn't enough to tell forsure, anyways its all clean now, so il know if it gets worse


----------



## Ceadderman

I guess it could be oil Q. The lone big drop was on a Blade so it's entirely possible.









Did you sniff it to see if it had the odor of anti-freeze? Cause even AF has an oily feel to it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I guess it could be oil Q. The lone big drop was on a Blade so it's entirely possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you sniff it to see if it had the odor of anti-freeze? Cause even AF has an oily feel to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There was nowhere nere enough to smell, there wasn't even enough to feel its texture hahaha


----------



## simonfredette

and by the way , even distilled is only ever really distilled while its still sealed in a plastic bottle , they distill it to get rid of all the junk that would make it conductive but dont for a second think your waterloop is completely clean , as soon as the distilled water touches your water block and the rad and even the pump its no longer really distilled anymore .. Kinda reminds me of mythbusters exploding water myth, where pure water doesnt boil because its the impurities that allow it to boil ( way more chemistry to it than that but ... ) as soon as you drop a grain of sand ,salt anything the water boils instantly .. Same for distilled water being non-conductive , its true until it touches just about anything other than the plastic bottle it came in .


----------



## Neo Zuko

STH10 Water Loop Plan V2:










Best loop plan I've done yet









Ordering the case within the next month. Then I'll start planning The Last Airbender and Legend of Korra 4-element art mods.






















There will be glowing eyes!!























Mobo obstruction is low, filling and draining should be super easy. Best of all, I managed to include some positive pressure design using only 13 GT AP-15 fans


----------



## simonfredette

I was going to rep you for the drawing alone but thats not exactly what the rep guidlines suggest so instead ill just say mad props !!


----------



## Neo Zuko

While I did go to art school and I will be painting this case with lots of art, this was done pretty rough and dirty with markers. The base drawing I found online somewhere, I printed it out to expedite the process.

I also want to incorporate some light, water, and acrylic in the design. Plus as my art ever changes, I want to design and mod some panels that can be modular, so I can switch out the art as I paint new panels.


----------



## Ceadderman

Very cool Neo, but I'd drop the air if you can get a mainboard block for whatever you are cooling. Gonna be plenty loud as it is with 2 Radiators and Fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I like it , no problems so far , the only thing there is now is that I would like to use an old 550 ti as a physx card but im using all my 6/8 pin connectors with my 2 570s . limited if you wanted to go tri sli , but then again would you really want to try on 750W


I think you'ld be ok with a 750. I was running Crossfired 6870's for a while on just a 550 watt OCZ Fatl1ty and not even a hiccup. The way it was explained to me was my cpu is 95 watts + 150 per gpu would be about 390 so I had plenty overhead to run my periphials and lighting. So not sure what you cpu and gpus pull but most like it would be up to the challenge.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Those Corsair fans are known for leaking oil,expect that fan to die in the near future.
As for 'repairing' the rad,that is foolish,just send it back. Any repair you do will not work correctly and will kill your warranty.
Doesnt sound like a loss does it? Until it blows your board and Corsair blow you out...
The fluid in the h coolers is a white glycol mix for future reference..its very obvious when they leak.

To my mind,the whole purpose of any closed loop cooler is to provide the ability of a custom loop (within reason) in a warrantied,safe way..no worry about leaks and potential damage.
If it was a custom rad,go for it,epoxy or solder is a good idea.
On a h cooler? No.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> STH10 Water Loop Plan V2:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best loop plan I've done yet


I Love that Drawing..Good Show Neo..









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I Love that Drawing..Good Show Neo..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/25860
> 
> 
> BTW thats not linked properly
> 
> On the subject where (Neo Zuko) what are you using as a external water source or is the loop closed behind the MB tray? looks good great case choice!


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I Love that Drawing..Good Show Neo..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1011249/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL


BTW thats not linked properly

On the subject where (Neo Zuko) what are you using as a external water source or does the loop closed behind the MB tray? looks good great case choice!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> BTW thats not linked properly
> On the subject where (Neo Zuko) what are you using as a external water source or does the loop closed behind the MB tray? looks good great case choice!


fixed


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those Corsair fans are known for leaking oil,expect that fan to die in the near future.
> As for 'repairing' the rad,that is foolish,just send it back. Any repair you do will not work correctly and will kill your warranty.
> Doesnt sound like a loss does it? Until it blows your board and Corsair blow you out...
> The fluid in the h coolers is a white glycol mix for future reference..its very obvious when they leak.
> 
> To my mind,the whole purpose of any closed loop cooler is to provide the ability of a custom loop (within reason) in a warrantied,safe way..no worry about leaks and potential damage.
> If it was a custom rad,go for it,epoxy or solder is a good idea.
> On a h cooler? No.


+Rep For very good feedback and information.









~Ceadder


----------



## Neo Zuko

The loop is all internal, in front of the mobo (big dots are like compression fittings or connection points), I just wanted to show that I was going to use T-Lines to fill and drain. Might even mount them to the case walls with quick disconnects. I could place it behind the mobo, but I don't see the advantage of doing so. The GPUs are to be run in parallel.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very cool Neo, but I'd drop the air if you can get a mainboard block for whatever you are cooling. Gonna be plenty loud as it is with 2 Radiators and Fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Running a MVE, so I don't think there is a mobo water block yet. Going to delid the 3770K CPU though. All the parts are listed in my signature rig - some of those parts are from _THE FUTURE!!!_

Doc:







When this baby hits 88mph







you're going to see some serious ****!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0kswK2aI08&feature=fvst

Marty:














You _MEAN_ to tell me... you built a time machine... in a _DELOREAN_???

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AM5EYO5wWMA&feature=plcp

Marty: Libyans!!






























http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPeHFDxKUP4

Biif: Hey McFly!!









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95_DB6GgLQs

Marty: This is an oldie - well... it's an oldie from where I come from...









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1i5coU-0_Q

Doc:







 1.21 Gigawatts





















!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-77xulkB_U

Marty:







What's a Gigawatt?!!


----------



## Ceadderman

There'll be one out soon enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

is there a water block for the maximus iv gene-z?

**edit**
found some and there really ugly so il pass
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p12487_Watercool-HEATKILLER--MB-SET-ASUS-MAXIMUS-IV-LT.html


----------



## simonfredette

theres no full mobo one but they do have a mosfet one : https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-mosfet_max_iv_gene_-_acetal_en_nickel_/


----------



## bomberjun

Bought these 7 AP15 fans yesterday for the 2 360radiators and 1 120 rad. I hope I made the right decision after reading a lot of reviews.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very cool Neo, but I'd drop the air if you can get a mainboard block for whatever you are cooling. Gonna be plenty loud as it is with 2 Radiators and Fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My plan include 13 GT AP-15 fans, but I plan on lots of noise friendly Black Ice 120mm SR1 Rads and a solid fan controller. I might get a mobo full water block, but I might not. All depends on looks really as the mobo really does not need it. Plus it adds restriction. But I could see myself doing it if it looked cool enough. However, that is about as far as I would go. Not water cooling RAM or HDs or other such nonsense.

BTW, to the above poster, the GT AP-15 fans are fantastic. I've been using them exclusively for years.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Bought these 7 AP15 fans yesterday for the 2 360radiators and 1 120 rad. I hope I made the right decision after reading a lot of reviews.


Can't go wrong with AP15's. I went with Noiseblocker Pro's because GT's don't come in 140mm...


----------



## lowfat

You can never go wrong w/ AP-15s. Especially if you plan on throwing them on a fan controller. Not to mention they are a very good looking fan (IMO).


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can never go wrong w/ AP-15s. Especially if you plan on throwing them on a fan controller. Not to mention they are a very good looking fan (IMO).


They do look good, though I wish the blades where black like the higher speed GTs from Japan.


----------



## bomberjun

Thanks.. Yeah, I still eyeing on that Lamptron FC8 to control all my fans in my rig.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Thanks.. Yeah, I still eyeing on that Lamptron FC8 to control all my fans in my rig.


Here is the fan controller I want. Control it via your smartphone!!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=34294

Nice thing about the GTs, they draw very little power, so you can link up quite a few on the same channel.


----------



## morencyam

Finally got my 2150 Typhoons. Time for some paint


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Here is the fan controller I want. Control it via your smartphone!!
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=34294
> Nice thing about the GTs, they draw very little power, so you can link up quite a few on the same channel.


Really?! HAHA.. that's awesome..


----------



## broken pixel

Nice fan controller, thanks for sharing. I will add to my want list.


----------



## s0up2up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Im curious why alot of you guys


Does anyone know what dye this is?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Finally got my 2150 Typhoons. Time for some paint


I want to paint mine, how did you get the blades off? You don't paint the motor part do you?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Finally got my 2150 Typhoons. Time for some paint


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Board of watercooling lol


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I want to paint mine, how did you get the blades off? You don't paint the motor part do you?


You have to take the sticker off the frame and remove the little c-clip. The blades come right off. Make sure you don't lose the clip or the little spring on the shaft. I used Alazar's thread as help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Thought you might might like that derick, with that orange refrigerator you're building over there. It was actually surprisingly easy to find the right shade of orange. Just walked down to the hardware store with a spare piece of MDPC-X sleeve and tried to find something as close as possible. I put 4 coats on one side yesterday and will do four on the other today after work.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Beautiful!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy Shiny!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love your avatar! Pincers, lol...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Here is the fan controller I want. Control it via your smartphone!!
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=34294
> Nice thing about the GTs, they draw very little power, so you can link up quite a few on the same channel.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Really?! HAHA.. that's awesome..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Nice fan controller, thanks for sharing. I will add to my want list.


Ya I don't think that's the greatest fan controller, I was looking at getting that as well till Majin SSJ Eric told me he had abit of trouble changing fan speeds on the touch screen part, so I looked it up on YouTube and sure enough that thing has a huge delay in changing the fan speed from the LCD touch screen, so know I'm going to buy a defferent fan controller


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I want to paint mine, how did you get the blades off? You don't paint the motor part do you?


Here's how I took mine apart...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1290353/build-log-pandamonium-th10-w-ped-rive-w-3930k-tri-sli-evga-670-4gb-sc-water-cooled/30#post_17916349


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love your avatar! Pincers, lol...


Ha cheers bud.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I wanna see! Is that link broken for anyone else?

EDIT: Stupid internet blocks


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Finally got my 2150 Typhoons. Time for some paint


AH! Dont let the paint get in the hub!!!









That little part where the spindle comes through is enough to get paint into.

Be careful when you paint fans that way as paint in the hub or on the spindle is a quick way to ruin it.

I'm sure they are fine, but be careful


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> I wanna see! Is that link broken for anyone else?


That?http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> That?http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup


I see he uploaded it to a 3rd party site. I guess that site is blocked where I work









Edited the original post.


----------



## bundymania

Best Radiator with 600 RPM atm !


----------



## bomberjun

Those fins looks really tight!


----------



## Willhemmens

You've not seen the HWLabs Stealth radiators then. They're 30 FPI.


----------



## SonDa5

Another photo of the Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ 79X0 Ni-Bl on my Sapphire HD 7950 950mhz edition.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Those fins look really tight!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> You've not seen the HWLabs Stealth radiators then. They're 30 FPI.


looking at them at what looks to be 1:1 Ratio (pic might be a little smaller than that







), it looks like it's about 15 FPI max.

This is an approximation as I didn't hold a rule up to the monitor to measure. I just counted from the tank and in approximately 1".

As Will pointed out GT Stealth Rads are 30 FPI.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

im used to my XSPC RX 360 and RX 240 with very low fpi's , I find I get better airflow with those


----------



## Neo Zuko

Just ordered two Black Ice SR1 480 Rads for $236 USD delivered!! Which I thought was a very good price.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Just ordered two Black Ice SR1 480 Rads for $236 USD delivered!! Which I thought was a very good price.


Delivered from where to where? That seems kind of high.









@Thread members... Just listed the Killcoil and added two 3g tubes of Shin Etsu G751 in marketplace. Link is in the sig.









~Ceadder


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> but on the bright side its next to a beach , little rock is just a sad place to live , even the strippers are useless, if I wanted to see a half naked girl with taped nips id go back to canada and to any bar where 18 year old go dancing .


The beach at Keesler is dirty. I won't be touching that water.... and it's mississippi -- What do you think there is to do there? Lol

And I know how you feel about the woman. I'm in the same boat -- San Antonio is the fattest city in america for a reason.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Does anyone know what dye this is?


That would be Mayhems


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> but on the bright side its next to a beach , little rock is just a sad place to live , even the strippers are useless, if I wanted to see a half naked girl with taped nips id go back to canada and to any bar where 18 year old go dancing .
> 
> 
> 
> *The beach at Keesler is dirty*. I won't be touching that water.... and it's mississippi -- What do you think there is to do there? Lol
> 
> And I know how you feel about the woman. I'm in the same boat -- San Antonio is the fattest city in america for a reason.
Click to expand...

Well duh! Granted that it got worse after Katrina and the BP Spill but it's ALWAYS been that way. I was stationed in Pascagoula 20 years ago and it was dirty even back then. At least Biloxi has Casinos now. We had to go 50 miles out in order to gamble back then.

Oh and it's not just dirty. You don't want to go out in that water even if it's clean. The Jelly Fish there are absolute murder on the ankles and calves just wading out.









All we did when we went there was clubbin and bar hopping. Of course I had my appy done there at Keesler AFB. So instead of a T Shirt I got a 3 inch zipper.







lulz!!!

~Ceadder


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Just ordered two Black Ice SR1 480 Rads for $236 USD delivered!! Which I thought was a very good price.


Delivered to Philadelphia PA, and that's the best price for TWO Black Ice SR1 480 RADs I could find, by $50, where are you seeing it cheaper?!!!!


----------



## Neo Zuko

From dangerden, in the USA.

Most places charge up to $300 or so.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> From dangerden, in the USA.
> Most places charge up to $300 or so.


Danger Den store is showing them for $147.95 each for me

Cheapest I've seen (without shipping added) is $129.95 at Jab-Tech


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> From dangerden, in the USA.
> Most places charge up to $300 or so.


you must have got the last of them.. they show out of stock for me at 147.95 per


----------



## Neo Zuko

Just came back in stock from selling out eariler this month. Indeed the most I could add to my cart was 2, via drop down menu, but it was all I needed. These are 25% off that $148 price till the end of the month.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Just came back in stock from selling out eariler this month. Indeed the most I could add to my cart was 2, via drop down menu, but it was all I needed. These are 25% off that $148 price till the end of the month.


ah the 25% off special is not shown in the current price


----------



## Neo Zuko

I got that back in stock email and ordered right away


----------



## Fultonloyn

Just got done putting on my XSPC low profile fittings. Bought them from a member here on OCN. They look pretty slick! Doing some leak testing now. Pics up in a bit

EDIT: PIctures here.....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> ah the 25% off special is not shown in the current price


Correct, the 25% only comes off when you add an in stock rad to the cart.


----------



## prznar1

:O

I've found my GPU blocks.

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/gpu-waterblocks/raystorm-gpu/

Looks great. Next month purchase. Later i will get CPU raystorm and will change my poor old D-tek v2.


----------



## drkimlee

Thought id show a few updated pictures of my Cosmos 2 Build.


----------



## derickwm

More progress


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> More progress


Wish i could see these pics, but whatever type of file ur pic is work computer wont let me look at em


----------



## Bradleynight

Back up and running on water!


----------



## simonfredette

good now youre going to have to start folding some proteins on that thing!!Youre missing out on the foldathon!


----------



## idaWHALE

So I just got my 120 and 240 rad as well as my res and pump. I still need to get my 2 gpu blocks, barbs, and tubes. Does anyone know how the swiftech universal gpu blocks connect to the bridge that is compatible with them? This is my first loop and never understood how bridges and blocks connect









Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE*
> 
> So I just got my 120 and 240 rad as well as my res and pump. I still need to get my 2 gpu blocks, barbs, and tubes. Does anyone know how the swiftech universal gpu blocks connect to the bridge that is compatible with them? This is my first loop and never understood how bridges and blocks connect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk 2


It comes with instructions. You use barbs and short pieces of tubing (3" about) and just push the SLI bridge on to the tubing. Repeate for multiple GPU blocks.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I have tons of angled fittings in my rig (over $200 worth) because clean runs were a priority and some spots were too tight for straight fittings. In fact, I think there is only 3 straight fittings in the loop and 2 of those are connecting a T-connector to my drain tap.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Consider yourself lucky then lol..... I could have built a new x79 based platform for what I have in fittings lol


----------



## bomberjun




----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Benching Heaven 3.0 today and my gpu temps got to 60C! Water temp was 48C and this was with all fans at max on my 560 and 240 rads. Should I be concerned? My 3960X is at 4.8GHz and 1.45V and my 7970's were both maxied on voltage at 1382mV and 1230MHz core. I see lots of guys saying their gpu temps never get over 40C and I don't see how that's possible with the kind of clocks I'm running but stillm 48C water temp seems high. Ambient is 24C....


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> You've not seen the HWLabs Stealth radiators then. They're 30 FPI.


Thats what I run.... 2 140's and one 280







They are tight FPI


----------



## matan11

Guys, I have a problem.
This happened after about 3 weeks:



Can anyone maybe recommend me a good clear tubing?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Durelene is what I use and its been crystal clear for about a month....


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> It comes with instructions. You use barbs and short pieces of tubing (3" about) and just push the SLI bridge on to the tubing. Repeate for multiple GPU blocks.


Can you use the Swiftech bridge with any GPU blocks ? If it hooks up using barbs and short tubing like you say it should right ? If so I'm definitely getting one for my Univeral Raystorm GPU blocks


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Benching Heaven 3.0 today and my gpu temps got to 60C! Water temp was 48C and this was with all fans at max on my 560 and 240 rads. Should I be concerned? My 3960X is at 4.8GHz and 1.45V and my 7970's were both maxied on voltage at 1382mV and 1230MHz core. I see lots of guys saying their gpu temps never get over 40C and I don't see how that's possible with the kind of clocks I'm running but stillm 48C water temp seems high. Ambient is 24C....


thats really high water temp for what youre running in rads... what fans are you using? Is your pump making any weird noises? It really sounds like either a lack of cooling (fans) or a lack of flow...


----------



## matan11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene is what I use and its been crystal clear for about a month....


thx man


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> The beach at Keesler is dirty. I won't be touching that water.... and it's mississippi -- What do you think there is to do there? Lol
> And I know how you feel about the woman. I'm in the same boat -- San Antonio is the fattest city in america for a reason.


Yeah Biloxi its dirty... lol. Even before the hurricane and the spill. I was there from 00-01' for basic electronics and radar and of course I was in San Antonio in 00' for basic training (in August). Don't miss either one of them.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene is what I use and its been crystal clear for about a month....


Haven't had a chance to use my durelene yet but I have 10 feet at home, A new Pump & Reservoir on the way and some more corsair fans so I can re-do my loop, will be adding mayhems red dye to the loop which I already have. From what i've been seeing it's the best stuff!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> thats really high water temp for what youre running in rads... what fans are you using? Is your pump making any weird noises? It really sounds like either a lack of cooling (fans) or a lack of flow...


Noiseblocker PL2's and PK3's. 4 x 140mm on the 560 and 2 x 120mm on the 240. I have an MCP655 D5 pump running at max...

Like I said, I am running very aggressive OC;s on the CPU and both 7970's so I don't know if my temps are normal or not. During Prime95 blend the 3960X gets up to 75C...


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Can you use the Swiftech bridge with any GPU blocks ? If it hooks up using barbs and short tubing like you say it should right ? If so I'm definitely getting one for my Univeral Raystorm GPU blocks


Should be able to use the swiftech bridge as long as the spacing is close... only thing I don't like is that it is a parallel bridge







. I'm going to block off one channel of mine to make it serial because one GPU is consistantly 10*C hotter under load.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Benching Heaven 3.0 today and my gpu temps got to 60C! Water temp was 48C and this was with all fans at max on my 560 and 240 rads. Should I be concerned? My 3960X is at 4.8GHz and 1.45V and my 7970's were both maxied on voltage at 1382mV and 1230MHz core. I see lots of guys saying their gpu temps never get over 40C and I don't see how that's possible with the kind of clocks I'm running but stillm 48C water temp seems high. Ambient is 24C....


That does seem pretty warm for what your radiator surface area. I've got two 140's, a 280, and a 240 (107,200mm^2 vs. your 96,000mm^2) with two 480's @ 900/2200 1.18V, Q9550 @ 4.08GHz 1.375V, blocks on the X48 north bridge (1.74V) and the NB voltage circut, blocks on the CPU VRegs, and two pumps... Even crazy benching/gaming my water temp only gets to 42-43*C max with an ambient temp of around 24-25*C. I would think I'm putting as much heat or more as your setup would. My GPU temps do get to 60 (bottom card) and 68 (top card) and CPU gets to 68*c during the most strenuous tests.

What is the ambient air temp in your room because for the water temp your GPU temps seem about right unfortunately.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

24C ambient. Maybe I need dual D5's?


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> 24C ambient. Maybe I need dual D5's?


Those GPU temps seem pretty close to my 580s, and my ambients are around yours if not a few C higher.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Its not a major concern for me as I never OC the cards for regular gaming, just benching. An hour of Crysis 2 and they stay around 40-45C but when I max voltages for bench runs they get up to 60C...


----------



## lowfat

Your water temperature seems very high to me. Are you fans actually pushing air through those radiators? Those BI GTXs have 20 fins per inch, which is rather high. They do require a lot of static pressure. Not sure some lower speed 140mm fans would be up to the challenge.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

They're 1700rpm Noiseblocker Pro PK-3's...


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Can you use the Swiftech bridge with any GPU blocks ? If it hooks up using barbs and short tubing like you say it should right ? If so I'm definitely getting one for my Univeral Raystorm GPU blocks


Should as long as they can be run in parallel which I think all Universal GPU blocks are designed for.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> 24C ambient. Maybe I need dual D5's?


I like that idea







let me know if it makes a difference - ive been considering this upgrade for quite some time now

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Its not a major concern for me as I never OC the cards for regular gaming, just benching. An hour of Crysis 2 and they stay around 40-45C but when I max voltages for bench runs they get up to 60C...


the 40-45C when not OCd seem reasonable to me - maybe the 7970s just pump out a LOT of heat when OCd.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> They're 1700rpm Noiseblocker Pro PK-3's...


I really dont think your fans are the culprits - as long as you feel a lot of air coming through the rad youre fine.


----------



## bomberjun

Rebuilding.. just took some shots.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ya I don't think that's the greatest fan controller, I was looking at getting that as well till Majin SSJ Eric told me he had abit of trouble changing fan speeds on the touch screen part, so I looked it up on YouTube and sure enough that thing has a huge delay in changing the fan speed from the LCD touch screen, so know I'm going to buy a defferent fan controller


What about their other new analog slider one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=34293

30w X 5 channels...


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> Guys, I have a problem.
> This happened after about 3 weeks:
> 
> Can anyone maybe recommend me a good clear tubing?


Platicizer free Tygon E-1000 tubing. That's the one I'm going with anyway.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Rebuilding.. just took some shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great! really loving the focal points and lighting


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> What about their other new analog slider one:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=34293
> 30w X 5 channels...


seems pretty solid, watch this video and skip to 2:28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hs8hvpQvQkU


----------



## soul801

matan11:

Check out this vid, had the same problem as you, been using Durelene tubing for over a month now and it's still clear as the day I installed it.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ooooooh...I like that backplate! What is that made from?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys i was on performance-pcs.com looking at compression fittings for my build and cant find bitspower fitting for G1/4" for 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD Tubing, am i blind, i can only find 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD for G3/8" thread...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys i was on performance-pcs.com looking at compression fittings for my build and cant find bitspower fitting for G1/4" for 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD Tubing, am i blind, i can only find 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD for G3/8" thread...


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_614&zenid=c56e106aeec54738fa5cda5ab116dfae
labeled for tygon 1/2


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_614&zenid=c56e106aeec54738fa5cda5ab116dfae
> labeled for tygon 1/2


Thanks









second question, what size are the fittings that come with the evga 680/690 hydro copper blocks, cant seem to find out..


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> second question, what size are the fittings that come with the evga 680/690 hydro copper blocks, cant seem to find out..


3/8 and 1/2 id compression fittings


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> 3/8 and 1/2 id compression fittings


So the bigger one is G1/4" for 1/2" ID and 3/4" ??


----------



## simonfredette

use 3/8 ID 5/8 OD , the tubing is thicker and doesnt kink as much


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> use 3/8 ID 5/8 OD , the tubing is thicker and doesnt kink as much


im not worried about kinks tho, every thing is going to be small straight runs, any other benefits for using that size?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So the bigger one is G1/4" for 1/2" ID and 3/4" ??


Yes, 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


why not make the text on the back plate face the consumer, stupid imo. and its not only acool that does it


----------



## Qu1ckset

is this the best quick disconnects?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_482&products_id=28307
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_482&products_id=28308


----------



## protzman

for sure. mine work TOO well


----------



## nleksan

Regarding the Bitfenix Hydra, I have one coming and should be here tomorrow. Will let you know how it works, as I'll be running 2 channels with 3x Bgears Blasters 140mm each, 1 channel with 4x Koolance 120x25mm 2800rpm on it, and 4 140mm + 1 80x15mm fans on the rest


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> 3/8 and 1/2 id compression fittings


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So the bigger one is G1/4" for 1/2" ID and 3/4" ??


there are links in my post above to those exact fittings


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Updates on "Mayhem master".
> Still waiting on loads of stuff but I've got the watercooling in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This isn't the final coolant colour, bright Green Aurora will be going in nearer the event this build is being built for.
> I'm also tempted to get some Anfi-tec mosfet blocks unless anyone know anything that will fit the Sabertooth Z77.
> You can keep up with the build here: Cosmos II i46 LAN Build "Mayhem Master" - Will be complete by 23rd Aug - Running/testing


Neat rig.....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> just sharing. already a year old. that was fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good day everyone.


Perfect setsup!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is so tempting. I found a guy selling one on craigslist lcoally, but he's not responding to any of my inquiries. I would have sold my Elysium (locally) for cheap to get this one. Amazon has it cheap for $159 less a $30 mir for the black one, and $169 less a $20 mir for the white one
> 
> 
> .


Mate, what name of case?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Neat rig.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect setsup!
> Mate, what name of case?


Azza Genesis 9000 or as I like to call it, the big case of death


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> 3/8 and 1/2 id compression fittings
> 
> 
> 
> So the bigger one is G1/4" for 1/2" ID and 3/4" ??
Click to expand...

Yes.









~Ceadder


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Azza Genesis 9000 or as I like to call it, the big case of death


Many thanks for link! REP+


----------



## Indulgence

thank you GAMERIG


----------



## Fonne

Is there any memory block thats fitt the G.Skill Trident X ?



Would be amazing if you could just slide them into a block


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any memory block thats fitt the G.Skill Trident X ?
> 
> 
> 
> Would be amazing if you could just slide them into a block


There is no block made for them like the Corsair Dominator RAM. You have to use the Bitspower Universal DIMM kit.

You need these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=33655

And the BP waterblock.


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Looks great! really loving the focal points and lighting


Thanks mate!


----------



## prznar1

or the XSPC ram block and side blades or buy whole set.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1279319/the-new-xspc-ram-blocks


----------



## Fonne

Thanks, will take a look on the XSPC and BP block


----------



## Fonne

Almost forgot:

*HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 670 Ni-Bl*



http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15526


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> or the XSPC ram block and side blades or buy whole set.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1279319/the-new-xspc-ram-blocks


Good find. I didn't know they made the universal sideplates.

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/chipset-waterblocks/universal-memory-side-plate-twin-set/


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Good find. I didn't know they made the universal sideplates.
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/chipset-waterblocks/universal-memory-side-plate-twin-set/


found them while i was looking for universal GPU block. you should look at raystorm GPU. epic block. gonna take two of them for my build, and later i will change my cpu old d-tek v2 for the raystorm cpu


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> found them while i was looking for universal GPU block. you should look at raystorm GPU. epic block. gonna take two of them for my build, and later i will change my cpu old d-tek v2 for the raystorm cpu


Do it you won't regret it once you see them all lite up. I have the Raystorm CPU Block and 2 Raystorm GPU Blocks and they look amazing. I'll post pics as soon as I get them all in again. I had to send one back because it came with a tiny crack I guess and was leaking when I tested them. So for now I'm running the Raystorm CPU block and 1 Raystorm GPU block and another larkooler block I modded to fit my GPU in the meantime.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Do it you won't regret it once you see them all lite up. I have the Raystorm CPU Block and 2 Raystorm GPU Blocks and they look amazing. I'll post pics as soon as I get them all in again. I had to send one back because it came with a tiny crack I guess and was leaking when I tested them. So for now I'm running the Raystorm CPU block and 1 Raystorm GPU block and another larkooler block I modded to fit my GPU in the meantime.


They don't lite up if you get the copper version of these puppys...







. I'm picking up the CPU block this week hopefully.


----------



## Shogon

Need more extension cables, and new tubing, just ran out lol. Besides that about 12C less on the CPU, and 5 on the 690, maybe now I can try 5.0 without hitting 80C or higher in prime.


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> They don't lite up if you get the copper version of these puppys...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm picking up the CPU block this week hopefully.






Even without the LED's they look so sweet. You definitely will not regret it. As for performance I'm sure you've done your research on them. They are great blocks.











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> 
> 
> Need more extension cables, and new tubing, just ran out lol. Besides that about 12C less on the CPU, and 5 on the 690, maybe now I can try 5.0 without hitting 80C or higher in prime.






I wish I could get 2 of those razor blocks for my cards. Maybe when I upgrade my cards I'll get something that hopefully XSPC's make them for. I can never see too much of the Raystorms they are just sweet looking. I would also like to add a XSPC's ram block to complete the look.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> why not make the text on the back plate face the consumer, stupid imo. and its not only acool that does it


Feel free to make suggestions here:

http://forum.alphacool.com/viewforum.php?f=42&sid=f80becf321a49f5da8284a2919b60fc3


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> ooooooh...I like that backplate! What is that made from?


It´s made from Alu


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Aluminium as the Brits say... Lol.


----------



## num1son

Looking for a copper/Acrylic top version of the EK-FC580GTX+.

Can't find one for sale retail anymore so if anyone is selling there's let me know!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Aluminium as the Brits say... Lol.


Which is the correct way...

In other news...1440p?










Yes.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Actually according to Wiki either aluminum or aluminium are correct...









Btw, which monitor is that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Actually according to Wiki either aluminum or aluminium are correct...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, which monitor is that?


Achevia Shimian

Best 200 i ever spent


----------



## num1son

Achieva Shimian FTW!


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Good find. I didn't know they made the universal sideplates.
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/chipset-waterblocks/universal-memory-side-plate-twin-set/


Thanks









Ybris BLACK SUN Acetal Black Xtreme
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Ybris-BLACK-SUN-Acetal-Black-Xtreme-S775115611551366-Intel_25248.html



Is this a new player ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ybris BLACK SUN Acetal Black Xtreme
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Ybris-BLACK-SUN-Acetal-Black-Xtreme-S775115611551366-Intel_25248.html
> 
> Is this a new player ?


Old as the hills.....


----------



## Fonne

Was planning to buy the Swiftech Apogee Drive II, but the more I look at the Heatkiller combo, the more I love the look ....

*Laing DDC-Pumpe + DDC-Case LT*
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30007



*+*

*HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1155/1156 Ni-BL*
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14014



*Vs.*

*Swiftech Apogee Drive II*
http://www.swiftech.com/apogeedrive2.aspx



Price a pretty much the same, but will I loose alot of performance by going after a nice look and pick the Heatkiller combo ? ...


----------



## simonfredette

some french people in canada say aluminium because thats what it is in french so it just comes out that way , im more surprised at how many people cant say cinnamon , comes out cimanim or something ..On another note I didnt even know the raystorm block came im bare copper without the lights , it looks cool that way , would look great with a couple new heat killer gpu fullcovers.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Do it you won't regret it once you see them all lite up. I have the Raystorm CPU Block and 2 Raystorm GPU Blocks and they look amazing. I'll post pics as soon as I get them all in again. I had to send one back because it came with a tiny crack I guess and was leaking when I tested them. So for now I'm running the Raystorm CPU block and 1 Raystorm GPU block and another larkooler block I modded to fit my GPU in the meantime.


waiting to see those.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Actually according to Wiki either aluminum or aluminium are correct...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, which monitor is that?
> 
> 
> 
> Achevia Shimian
> 
> Best 200 i ever spent
Click to expand...

How on earth... 200? 200 what? GBP? Euro? USD?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Was planning to buy the Swiftech Apogee Drive II, but the more I look at the Heatkiller combo, the more I love the look ....
> Price a pretty much the same, but will I loose alot of performance by going after a nice look and pick the Heatkiller combo ? ...


You cant go wrong with Watercool HKs....quality is tip top.
You will probably GAIN performance with the HK kit,i have a few friends that have tried that ADII.....all have ditched them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> How on earth... 200? 200 what? GBP? Euro? USD?


£ my man...£

Actually it was £190.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You cant go wrong with Watercool HKs....quality is tip top.
> You will probably GAIN performance with the HK kit,i have a few friends that have tried that ADII.....all have ditched them.


Thanks, sound great









*Laing DDC-Pumpe + DDC-Case LT*
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30007



*+*

*HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1155/1156 Ni-BL*
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14014



*+*

*HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 670 Ni-Bl*
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15526



My next build then







- Just waiting on my local reseller gets the GTX670 block .... Will maybe add a chipset block:

*HEATKILLER® NSB Rev3.0 Ni*
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/10203



Think it look really nice







- *Only need a memory block that will fit the look ?*


----------



## Fonne

- Mistake -


----------



## tuffarts

^^ I have Heatkiller blocks (amongst others),
And the build quality is the best.
Very best machine finish, and attention to detail is great.
I also have Rads from them, very clean with no residue in them, unlike some other brands.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffarts*
> 
> ^^ I have Heatkiller blocks (amongst others),
> And the build quality is the best.
> Very best machine finish, and attention to detail is great.
> I also have Rads from them, very clean with no residue in them, unlike some other brands.


I couldn't wait out the Heatkiller 690 block they are supposed to come out with, so I went with a Koolance block, but yeah.. def would have chosen Heatkiller.

Good reading the past 10 pages or so, Ok.. So plasticizer doesn't bother me because my tubing is white.. however seeing pictures of someones blue tubing's plasticizer basicly overtaking their blocks has got me worried. Duralene the way to go? Any of these non-plasticizers in white?

Also, about the Shimian, yeah the Korean IPS panels are awesome. I love my Crossover


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Is that that the IPSB model B Neg (tempered glass extending over the bezel)? That's the one I want but it appears they are discontinued in favor of the IPSI which has a brushed metal looking bezel...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Is that that the IPSB model B Neg (tempered glass extending over the bezel)? That's the one I want but it appears they are discontinued in favor of the IPSI which has a brushed metal looking bezel...


I have the Lite version,glossy finish,no glass


----------



## Qu1ckset

My first batch of stuff arrived for my Hydro Raven 2.0 build in my sig

Feel free to sub my build log!


----------



## Egameman

Finished building..

Sorry for crappy phone pics.

And nvm the "pinkish coolant", will be using Mayhems white soon







just placed the order.

Leak testing this is...



CPU(4,2 Ghz) idle: 27 celsius
Gpu idle(stock): 26 celsius

Im WORRIED about the gpu tough, it's bending cause of the weight of the block. Is there anything I can do ?

No stress test yet,m but cpu got up to 46 degress after 4 hrs BF3 on ultra, and the cpu was 38 celsius.

My ambient is 22 celsius

I¨m very happy with it, it's the first time watercool a gpu. HAve a backplate laying here, the old versiopn of the 680's, but there was no screws or thermal pads with it, so either need to order that,send it in return or get one matching CSQ plate as soon as they're back in stock.

and I LOVE the CSQ design, tough many of ya don't







!

Anything I should change or should have done differently/better? Please tell me...I'm eager to learn !


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Azza Genesis 9000 or as I like to call it, the big case of death


i'll be getting mine soon
but i'll be airbrushing mine








seems like a great case for watercooling.
putting an XSPC RX360 on bottom and
an XSPC RX480 on top.
will a 360 fit in the bottom if i flip the PSU
so the output wire are facing up and the power
cord plug is on the bottom of comp?
someone stated that a 360 won't fit down there unless modded
so i thought of flipping the PSU upwards.
+ d5 vario pump and 250mm frozenq res.
here's what's going in there so far.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have the Lite version,glossy finish,no glass


If you don't mind me asking B-neg what seller did you use? Looking at getting one of the lite versions myself.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys i cant seem to find what om looking for, do you guys know if performance-pcs.com sells some kind of double sided tape or something to mount pumps ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> If you don't mind me asking B-neg what seller did you use? Looking at getting one of the lite versions myself.


I went with Green Sum.

I got mine in 5 days,2 of which were the weekend


----------



## Alan1187

There is no UV in the case, the pic just kinda makes it look that way. But this is my first loop, and I love it so much so far. Makes me want to try to trade my MSI 560 Ti's for EVGA reference cards, or sell em and buy a 670 plus a block for it. Almost get annoyed by how loud my GPUs get now when I game...

Raystorm block
Swiftech micro res
Swiftech silent 240 rad
Swiftech -b pump
Monsoon fittings (love these BTW)
the new Corsair fans on the rad.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

OMG, I'm about to pull the trigger on a Samsung S27B970D! Somebody stop me please, my wallet is begging you!!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OMG, I'm about to pull the trigger on a Samsung S27B970D! Somebody stop me please, my wallet is begging you!!!


You could buy three 27" Catleaps for that price......


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You could buy three 27" Catleaps for that price......


That's like saying you could buy three Hyndais instead of a Lexus.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> That's like saying you could buy three Hyndais instead of a Lexus.


Lexus....Toyota you mean....
Those Catleaps have the LG panel Appfool uses and charges you 3x the price for.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> That's like saying you could buy three Hyndais instead of a Lexus.


In this case I would much rather have three Hyundai's.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> More progress


I bought a packet of that back in March, and it's already turned cloudy to the point where I can't see my fingers on the other side of the tube... And that's with ZERO dye in the primochill coolant I'm using, AND with 2 kill coils. Looks like I'm going to have to replace all of the tubing, and it hasn't even been a full year yet.


----------



## derickwm

Oh.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I bought a packet of that back in March, and it's already turned cloudy to the point where I can't see my fingers on the other side of the tube... And that's with ZERO dye in the primochill coolant I'm using, AND with 2 kill coils. Looks like I'm going to have to replace all of the tubing, and it hasn't even been a full year yet.


Take a bottle/tubing brush to the tubing. Clean w/ some soapy water. Since you've used the tubing so long there shouldn't be much plasticizer left in it. It shouldn't cloud as much, if at all.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well duh! Granted that it got worse after Katrina and the BP Spill but it's ALWAYS been that way. I was stationed in Pascagoula 20 years ago and it was dirty even back then. At least Biloxi has Casinos now. We had to go 50 miles out in order to gamble back then.
> Oh and it's not just dirty. You don't want to go out in that water even if it's clean. The Jelly Fish there are absolute murder on the ankles and calves just wading out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All we did when we went there was clubbin and bar hopping. Of course I had my appy done there at Keesler AFB. So instead of a T Shirt I got a 3 inch zipper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz!!!
> ~Ceadder


Yep. On the bright side, New Orleans is only an hour away and Pensicola is less than 2 hours away. I've heard there are places around that area on the way to florida that are nice for the beaches. I won't be doing the casino's much simply because I won't have the money. I have a family and all and... military money + family = no bueno


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Which is the correct way...
> In other news...1440p?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.


No it isn't, and I was a metallurgist







(referring to how you say Aluminum)


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Finished building..
> Sorry for crappy phone pics.
> And nvm the "pinkish coolant", will be using Mayhems white soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just placed the order.
> Leak testing this is...
> 
> 
> CPU(4,2 Ghz) idle: 27 celsius
> Gpu idle(stock): 26 celsius
> Im WORRIED about the gpu tough, it's bending cause of the weight of the block. Is there anything I can do ?
> No stress test yet,m but cpu got up to 46 degress after 4 hrs BF3 on ultra, and the cpu was 38 celsius.
> My ambient is 22 celsius
> I¨m very happy with it, it's the first time watercool a gpu. HAve a backplate laying here, the old versiopn of the 680's, but there was no screws or thermal pads with it, so either need to order that,send it in return or get one matching CSQ plate as soon as they're back in stock.
> and I LOVE the CSQ design, tough many of ya don't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Anything I should change or should have done differently/better? Please tell me...I'm eager to learn !





Nice! First time i've seen a 360 (280?) stuffed in a Arc Midi.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys if i where to thread in a non-rotary 90degree fitting which direction of the pic would it point in, up, down, left, right???


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys if i where to thread in a non-rotary 90degree fitting which direction of the pic would it point in, up, down, left, right???


It could point anywhere depending on the length of the thread, I just did a quick test with a fitting and rad I have and it ended up at about 2 o'clock. , position would differ with different brand fittings though.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> It could point anywhere depending on the length of the thread, I just did a quick test with a fitting and rad I have and it ended up at about 2 o'clock. , position would differ with different brand fittings though.


hmm think im just going to play it safe and get a rotory instead of non-rotary


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Yep. On the bright side, New Orleans is only an hour away and Pensicola is less than 2 hours away. I've heard there are places around that area on the way to florida that are nice for the beaches. I won't be doing the casino's much simply because I won't have the money. I have a family and all and... military money + family = no bueno


Just watch yourself and don't do anything stupid lol.... while I was there OSI had peeps crawling all over the hot spots just looking for zoomies doing something they shouldn't


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egotrippin*
> 
> That's like saying you could buy three Hyndais instead of a Lexus.


No you are wrong. That's like saying you could buy a Ferrari with a knock of body instead of a Lamborgini and save yourself 300,000 (in the case of a car). Fail comment.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys if i where to thread in a non-rotary 90degree fitting which direction of the pic would it point in, up, down, left, right???
> 
> 
> 
> It could point anywhere depending on the length of the thread, I just did a quick test with a fitting and rad I have and it ended up at about 2 o'clock. , position would differ with different brand fittings though.
Click to expand...

Threads can differ from one Rad to the next for the same Mfr as well. I doubt that there is any Radiator that has the same start point as its counterparts. Not unless it's manufactured by machine. Even then the tolerances will change as the system flexes. I've worked on an automated line before vibration can seriously change the whole ball of wax.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> It could point anywhere depending on the length of the thread, I just did a quick test with a fitting and rad I have and it ended up at about 2 o'clock. , position would differ with different brand fittings though.
> 
> 
> 
> hmm think im just going to play it safe and get a rotory instead of non-rotary
Click to expand...

Good idea. Just remember not to flex the fitting from side to side as you turn it or connect your hoses.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Yep. On the bright side, New Orleans is only an hour away and Pensicola is less than 2 hours away. I've heard there are places around that area on the way to florida that are nice for the beaches. I won't be doing the casino's much simply because I won't have the money. I have a family and all and... military money + family = no bueno
> 
> 
> 
> Just watch yourself and don't do anything stupid lol.... while I was there OSI had peeps crawling all over the hot spots just looking for zoomies doing something they shouldn't
Click to expand...

Who are OSI? Don't recall that alphabet in the soup.









@kpforce1... Yeah I was single when I was stationed down there. Still am, tho no longer in the employment of Uncle Sam.









~Ceadder


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! First time i've seen a 360 (280?) stuffed in a Arc Midi.


The case is arc mini,it accepts up to micro atx motherboards as you can see


----------



## Egameman

Thanx for the comment!That is correct , arc Mini and yes its an 360x60 rad


----------



## somebadlemonade

now that's what i call ingenuity 360 rad in a micro atx case


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> now that's what i call ingenuity 360 rad in a micro atx case






(A)







can still use up to 4 cm height of RAM







so will be swapping my low profile vengeance to some Ripjaws







, will also be trying to fit a 240 rad in the front as well


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys i cant seem to find what om looking for, do you guys know if performance-pcs.com sells some kind of double sided tape or something to mount pumps ?


You could pick up some Scotch Extreme mounting tape from a hardware/big box store. Supposed to hold up to 10 pounds. Otherwise you could look for some of that velcro/tape stuff like comes with cathodes and such.

Still experimenting with different colored acrylics:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Threads can differ from one Rad to the next for the same Mfr as well. I doubt that there is any Radiator that has the same start point as its counterparts. Not unless it's manufactured by machine. Even then the tolerances will change as the system flexes. I've worked on an automated line before vibration can seriously change the whole ball of wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good idea. Just remember not to flex the fitting from side to side as you turn it or connect your hoses.


Are the rotary's that delicate ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You could pick up some Scotch Extreme mounting tape from a hardware/big box store. Supposed to hold up to 10 pounds. Otherwise you could look for some of that velcro/tape stuff like comes with cathodes and such.


i will look into that.

Lastly im ordering my rads tonight, but i noticed when selecting the radiator i want on performance-pcs.com below the specs it says available option/ fitting size and only has 3/8"OD and 1/2"OD are those included barb fittings or something? because im using G1/4" for 1/2" ID and 3/4" which i am ordering separate comprission fittings, just wanted to make sure it wasnt something stupid like the thread sizing or something


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Lastly im ordering my rads tonight, but i noticed when selecting the radiator i want on performance-pcs.com below the specs it says available option/ fitting size and only has 3/8"OD and 1/2"OD are those included barb fittings or something? because im using G1/4" for 1/2" ID and 3/4" which i am ordering separate comprission fittings, just wanted to make sure it wasnt something stupid like the thread sizing or something


I had that when I ordered my radiators too. They are just optional barbs that come with it, for a price. It's like at best buy when they try to push the expensive Monster cables on you right before checkout. As long as the radiator has a G1/4 thread, your new fittings will fit


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I had that when I ordered my radiators too. They are just optional barbs that come with it, for a price. It's like at best buy when they try to push the expensive Monster cables on you right before checkout. As long as the radiator has a G1/4 thread, your new fittings will fit


Ya but they don't cost extra and you can't select no fitting...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=4537


----------



## ChaosAD

I am about to redo my tj07 loop, and thinking of mounting an additional dual rad in the frond. So i want to create a plexi frond plate for mounting tha rad and 2x120 fans. I was thinking of a mesh design in the beggining, but i then though to ask here if anyone has a more unique design idea. Ofc +rep to the creative designs


----------



## hammerforged

ChaosAD

Check out these Lian Li hard drive bay radiator brackets. I was considering these for my TJ07 but I mounted my 240 in the top.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5429/cpa-151/Lian_Li_Internal_Radiator_Mounts_CCRADBRACKETS.html?tl=g30c95s162#blank


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ya but they don't cost extra and you can't select no fitting...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=4537


Then it looks like they are free. I got two free barbs when I ordered my CPU block. Didn't use them at all, but it's nice having them just in case I need them. The description says G1/4 thread, so I wouldn't worry about it


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ChaosAD
> 
> Check out these Lian Li hard drive bay radiator brackets. I was considering these for my TJ07 but I mounted my 240 in the top.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5429/cpa-151/Lian_Li_Internal_Radiator_Mounts_CCRADBRACKETS.html?tl=g30c95s162#blank


There are also these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26190


----------



## Fonne

http://www.techpowerup.com/170971/Lamptron-Outs-G1-4-quot-Barbed-Fitting.html


----------



## 4514kaiser

Dame nice fittings, Still I'd personally go for Compression Fittings any day over barbs.....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I got free barbs with my black ice rads from performance-pcs as well. Screwed one into my bitspower drain tap and it works great to easily connect my drain tube!


----------



## ChaosAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ChaosAD
> Check out these Lian Li hard drive bay radiator brackets. I was considering these for my TJ07 but I mounted my 240 in the top.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5429/cpa-151/Lian_Li_Internal_Radiator_Mounts_CCRADBRACKETS.html?tl=g30c95s162#blank


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> There are also these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26190


Sorry, i guess i didnt make my self clear, my problem is not how to mount the rad in the frond. My problem is to find a nice design for the frond plate instead of the mesh design i though in the beggining.


----------



## Fuganater

Ah sorry I missed that part.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> The case is arc mini,it accepts up to micro atx motherboards as you can see


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Thanx for the comment!That is correct , arc Mini and yes its an 360x60 rad


Ah, my mistake. That's even better that you stuffed that 360 in that mini. Post pics once you stuff a 240 in the front.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Threads can differ from one Rad to the next for the same Mfr as well. I doubt that there is any Radiator that has the same start point as its counterparts. Not unless it's manufactured by machine. Even then the tolerances will change as the system flexes. I've worked on an automated line before vibration can seriously change the whole ball of wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good idea. Just remember not to flex the fitting from side to side as you turn it or connect your hoses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who are OSI? Don't recall that alphabet in the soup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @kpforce1... Yeah I was single when I was stationed down there. Still am, tho no longer in the employment of Uncle Sam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


OSI = Air Force Office of Special Investigation









Thier main office wast right next to my squadron (338th Dark Knights) in the "old" dorm area.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are you doing a 670 WB roundup? I am itching to know which is best.....


----------



## Fonne

The pictures is from Watercool.de homepage, so dont think its one that Bundy got ? (I have linked to the block on page 2600)


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> The pictures is from Watercool.de homepage, so dont think its one that Bundy got ? (I have linked to the block on page 2600)


Thanks, I appreciate the heads up. It's either XSPC or these. I wanted Alphacool to break out with some, since I already have three of their rads..


----------



## Fonne

Swiftech was also talking about a GTX670 fullcover block, but dont seems like it will hit the marked ? ....

My local reseller is already working on getting the Heatkiller GTX670 Nickel/Black home to me ...


----------



## kroks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> No it isn't, and I was a metallurgist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (referring to how you say Aluminum)


yes it is..
it's like soccer/football... ahh americans








http://chzmemebase.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/internet-memes-americans1.png


----------



## bomberjun

just sharing my mod to fit two 360 radiators at the bottom cage of an 800D.

some test fitting.











yeah, my oldest radiator is pretty beaten up and needs some repainting.



that's all for now folks.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Swiftech was also talking about a GTX670 fullcover block, but dont seems like it will hit the marked ? ....
> My local reseller is already working on getting the Heatkiller GTX670 Nickel/Black home to me ...


theres an entire thread on 670 full cover blocks , theyve gone over most of the ones out and the pictures of the ones to come , you can find it here


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroks*
> 
> yes it is..
> it's like soccer/football... ahh americans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://chzmemebase.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/internet-memes-americans1.png


That's only because we play REAL football over here, not soccer...


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> theres an entire thread on 670 full cover blocks , theyve gone over most of the ones out and the pictures of the ones to come , you can find it here


Have a couple of post in that thread, but thanks









Going with the heatkiller, the complete setup will look great i think









*Laing DDC-Pumpe + DDC-Case LT*



*HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1155/1156 Ni-BL*



*HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 670 Ni-Bl*



*HEATKILLER® NSB Rev3.0 Ni*



*Aquacomputer ramplex full copper edition RAM-Kühler, G1/4*



Next payday will be great


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's only because we play REAL football over here, not soccer...


lol..... except your foot only comes in contact with the ball .1% of the time in American football.... so technically it isn't football its more like handball because its in your hands the other 99.9% of the time lol. Wait, handball is already a sport too







.


----------



## simonfredette

the heatkiller stuff stuff looks amazing , when I started watercooling I thought the EK black was the coolest thing ever but this heatekiller stainless and copper makes it look so much more mechanical and straight up bad as .


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Threads can differ from one Rad to the next for the same Mfr as well. I doubt that there is any Radiator that has the same start point as its counterparts. Not unless it's manufactured by machine. Even then the tolerances will change as the system flexes. I've worked on an automated line before vibration can seriously change the whole ball of wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good idea. Just remember not to flex the fitting from side to side as you turn it or connect your hoses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are the rotary's that delicate ?
Click to expand...

Naw they usually aren't that delicate. Just sayin don't rolph on em and you'll be fine. If there is going to be a leak at the rotation that would be my guess as to how a rotary will fail. Too much gorilla not enough finesse.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> Dame nice fittings, Still I'd personally go for Compression Fittings any day over barbs.....










You and me both. Not sure I would trust those Lamptrons but I'll have to read up on em before I give an opinion on em.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's only because we play REAL football over here, not soccer...
> 
> 
> 
> lol..... except your foot only comes in contact with the ball .1% of the time in American football.... so technically it isn't football its more like handball because its in your hands the other 99.9% of the time lol. Wait, handball is already a sport too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Well back in the day before teams relied more on Passing than Running, the ball was advanced downfield on FOOT, hence the use of the name. Y'know back in the 3 yards and a cloud of dust days? And Passers could Kick the ball just as easily as hand it off. The game has changed a lot since those days but the name will always remain the same.









~Ceadder


----------



## Egameman

FOr the info:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=402838143103556&set=a.204208322966540.61821.182927101761329&type=1&theater

I will buy the MAximus MOsfet block

But is my ddc enough for mosfet block,cpu ,gpu, 2 rads , 3 x90 svivels, 5 x45 svivels ?  I'm still learning about this stuff so I'm sorry if it is a stupid question









If I need one more pump I will need to make one he..of a mod to fit all that in my little mATX case


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Swiftech was also talking about a GTX670 fullcover block, but dont seems like it will hit the marked ? ....
> My local reseller is already working on getting the Heatkiller GTX670 Nickel/Black home to me ...


I read on EVGA that they wasn't going to make it. It probably would've been nice too.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/170971/Lamptron-Outs-G1-4-quot-Barbed-Fitting.html


I guess Swiftech fittings jump started the wrench friendly fittings movement.


----------



## longroadtrip

Nice thing is that those lamptron fittings are are anodized...supposedly won't scratch as easy...

Wish they were doing compressions though...


----------



## simonfredette

I still dont know if Id use a wrench on my fittings either way though , especially if im screwing into acrylic. It really doesnt take much to crack it or wreck the threads and because of the o-ring it doesnt need to be that tight anyways , just enough to compress the ring .. Looks nice though .


----------



## B NEGATIVE

No tools need to be used on a plexi thread,you only need to be finger tight with fittings.


----------



## phillyd

My friend got a decent camera so we decided to take some pics. Check the switchbox build log in the sig below. Things are moving slowly but surely. Includes pics of my FrozenQ res and the equipment I will be watercooling.


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I have advice. GIMME!!
> Real nice, what kind of tube?


hi..sorry late reply.Promochill tubing..


----------



## Ecks9T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Have a couple of post in that thread, but thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with the heatkiller, the complete setup will look great i think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Laing DDC-Pumpe + DDC-Case LT*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1155/1156 Ni-BL*
> 
> *HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 670 Ni-Bl*
> 
> *HEATKILLER® NSB Rev3.0 Ni*
> 
> *Aquacomputer ramplex full copper edition RAM-Kühler, G1/4*
> 
> 
> 
> Next payday will be great


for the pump why not get it from BMaverick and a separate ddc pump top?


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecks9T*
> 
> for the pump why not get it from BMaverick and a separate ddc pump top?


BMaverick ? - Can you link to the parts that you are thinking off ? .... Thanks


----------



## Ecks9T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> BMaverick ? - Can you link to the parts that you are thinking off ? .... Thanks


pumps
i recently got two of them to run in a series
and
ek ddc pump top
or any other ddc pump top will work.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> FOr the info:
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=402838143103556&set=a.204208322966540.61821.182927101761329&type=1&theater
> 
> I will buy the MAximus MOsfet block
> 
> But is my ddc enough for mosfet block,cpu ,gpu, 2 rads , 3 x90 svivels, 5 x45 svivels ?  I'm still learning about this stuff so I'm sorry if it is a stupid question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I need one more pump I will need to make one he..of a mod to fit all that in my little mATX case


One DDC should be plenty depending on how much you're pushing through to complete the loop. I have 2 in my system and one of those gets cycled occasionally but is pretty much my backup plan should the primary fail on me.









@Fonne... Just contack bmaverick here and he... nvm Ecks was quicker than I was.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecks9T*
> 
> pumps
> i recently got two of them to run in a series
> and
> ek ddc pump top
> or any other ddc pump top will work.


The pump link dont seems to work ?

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/31000



This top just fit the rest of the parts so nice ...


----------



## Ecks9T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> The pump link dont seems to work ?
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/31000
> 
> This top just fit the rest of the parts so nice ...


it will any ddc tops will fit. and if you have even more questions you can even talk to bmaverick too


----------



## Ceadderman

Link works just fine for me. I now have it pinned as an App tab. Might get a couple more for shiggles.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## jagz

Quick Q, FPI of the UT60? Thanks. Can't find it anywhere.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quick Q, FPI of the UT60? Thanks. Can't find it anywhere.


Martins review says 9.6 fpi


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

We just got in these two water blocks in from the machine shop today at work. Contact plates are chromium plated copper and other part is nickel plated copper. $8600 a piece.


----------



## hammerforged

^

Good lord. I can only imagine what those are used to cool.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ^
> Good lord. I can only imagine what those are used to cool.


yeah... please elaborate. You must be a scientist doing research or sponsored in somehow for something. to drop $8600 per is absolutely rediculous.
Are you not telling us something? *cough cough * RICH * cough cough *


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ^
> Good lord. I can only imagine what those are used to cool.


That's for a moonshine machine









Anyway I just finished my rig (...again)
so here's a spoiler and I'll post a log in the rig section tomorrow probably.


----------



## rotary7

and whats the point in spending 8k on this?


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> That's for a moonshine machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I just finished my rig (...again)
> so here's a spoiler and I'll post a log in the rig section tomorrow probably.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
























That is FINE!

Quick question, what tubing are you using and has it clouded up yet. I am looking for some red tubing that doesn't cloud.


----------



## Futan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> That's for a moonshine machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I just finished my rig (...again)
> so here's a spoiler and I'll post a log in the rig section tomorrow probably.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome rig! I love the work done on those front panels!


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is FINE!
> Quick question, what tubing are you using and has it clouded up yet. I am looking for some red tubing that doesn't cloud.


I was a lil screwed up with tubing and had to use half XSPC and half Dreamflex from DD. After using them together for couple of mounth the XSPC one was completely covered with plasticizer, Dreamflex on the other hand was just a little cloudy. As soon as I get some funds I'll buy another pack of Dreamflex.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futan*
> 
> Awesome rig! I love the work done on those front panels!


Thanks man


----------



## hammerforged

Beautiful rig McDown. I love my TJ07

Do you have a build log? I would like to know more about the front panel mods. Thanks! Keep up the great work.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Edit button.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Edit button.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Edit button.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Can anyone help me with understanding the Aqua Computer AQ5 Fan Controller system... there are a billion options to buy and I don't know which are really useful and which are not.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'm a bit torn between the Black Ice SR1 and Black Ice GTX rads. I am going for silence with fan controlled GT AP-15 fans, so everyone pointed me to the SR1s. I ordered in two SRI 480 rads recently for a good price. But now I wonder if I should have gotten the GTX rads.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Oh, I just had this idea, could I not get both the SR1 and GTX rads? Have my silence and the power when needed?
> 
> Running in a STH10 case, could I run dual SR1 480 rads up top (which I already bought), with a single 560 or 480 or dual 360 GTX rad down below. I could keep the GTX in the loop, but not turn on the fans for the GTX rad until I need the extra cooling power. Just run the SR1s as my main silence rads. Would that work? Leaving one rad dormant until needed? Could the system function like that without any cons? Or if it needs some fans at all times, I could dial it way down (where a GTX would not cool well normally alone) and put it back up to " Witness the Power of this Fully Operational Battle station" fan speeds when desired and when noise does not matter. Will this work? I think that is a great idea!!
> 
> The other option is just do more SR1 rads to make up for the lack of fin density, as the STH10 has room for rads all over. Which on paper seems to be good too as the SR1 is quiet, so you are only adding more quiet rads for lower temps. But I have to wonder at what point is the louder solution: More low speed fans, or less med speed fans on a higher fin rad like the GTX. There has to be a crossover point where the GTX is better say. I doubt a hundred SR1 rads is quieter than 10 GTX rads. But I don't know the answer to this. Anyone?
> 
> I think my hybrid idea is good.


Why 3 posts in a row? Use the edit button.


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Beautiful rig McDown. I love my TJ07
> Do you have a build log? I would like to know more about the front panel mods. Thanks! Keep up the great work.


Thanks.
I will post the log tomorrow.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Sorry. I hit the edit button!!!

Seems I should just be happy with my dual SR1 480s rads. I had a nervous hour where I thought I made a slightly wrong call. But now I am good. SR1 for life!!


----------



## SonDa5

New DT SNIPER block on my cpu. Flow configuration.

Click for higher resolution.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonDa5*
> 
> New DT SNIPER block on my cpu. Flow configuration.
> 
> Click for higher resolution.










Are those fans or engines?


----------



## SonDa5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those fans or engines?


Triebwerk TK-123. They have a good deal on them right now at FrozenCPU.

Check out a hot deal announcement I made about them at hardforum...

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1713067


----------



## Ceadderman

Fark static pressure! I have 1000cfm fans AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!


















And they thought I was Mad. Ahahahahahahaha!!!!

~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

Acoustical Noise: <65 dBA


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Acoustical Noise: <65 dBA


damn!!!!! That's uncomfortable.


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Acoustical Noise: <65 dBA


Modded to run at 5 volts they are more than acceptably quiet unless you sleep with you head a foot away from them lol. For $9.99 They are actually quite a good buy IMHO.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elloquin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Acoustical Noise: <65 dBA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modded to run at 5 volts they are more than acceptably quiet unless you sleep with you head a foot away from them lol. For $9.99 They are actually quite a good buy IMHO.
Click to expand...

Sounds better. But still, if you can fit them.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> yeah... please elaborate. You must be a scientist doing research or sponsored in somehow for something. to drop $8600 per is absolutely rediculous.
> Are you not telling us something? *cough cough * RICH * cough cough *


No I'm not rich lol. The compny I work for pays for this stuff. They're used to cool 40,000v induction cookers used in a 4 ton press. The coils go from ~10c up to 450c in less than a second, then these water block bring the induction heating element back down to ~10c in about 4 seconds. It's all part of an assembly line. I can't go into what we're actually using this for though. So yeah, we pay 8K for water blocks. Keep in mind these are also hooked up to a 30GPM pump and a 50 gallon water chiller too. I love industry


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> One DDC should be plenty depending on how much you're pushing through to complete the loop. I have 2 in my system and one of those gets cycled occasionally but is pretty much my backup plan should the primary fail on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Fonne... Just contack bmaverick here and he... nvm Ecks was quicker than I was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder






....." *depending on how much you're pushing through to complete the loop* "...

my english lessons failed me here...What do you mean







?

And do you mean that your second ddc turns on occasionally ?

I¨m considering buying a 35x, because f the res and the flow rate, and ofc the pwm

Was measuring to see if I could fit dual d5 with the bitapower top, and a BP 80 res....more of a future proof solusion haha!

Thanks for the help Ceadder !


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> No I'm not rich lol. The compny I work for pays for this stuff. They're used to cool 40,000v induction cookers used in a 4 ton press. The coils go from ~10c up to 450c in less than a second, then these water block bring the induction heating element back down to ~10c in about 4 seconds. It's all part of an assembly line. I can't go into what we're actually using this for though. So yeah, we pay 8K for water blocks. Keep in mind these are also hooked up to a 30GPM pump and a 50 gallon water chiller too. I love industry


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Sounds better. But still, if you can fit them.


55mm is pretty thick. Good price though, wish I had room for them.


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Acoustical Noise: <65 dBA


earplugs are optional accessories


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> No I'm not rich lol. The compny I work for pays for this stuff. They're used to cool 40,000v induction cookers used in a 4 ton press. The coils go from ~10c up to 450c in less than a second, then these water block bring the induction heating element back down to ~10c in about 4 seconds. It's all part of an assembly line. I can't go into what we're actually using this for though. So yeah, we pay 8K for water blocks. Keep in mind these are also hooked up to a 30GPM pump and a 50 gallon water chiller too. I love industry


You're watercooling M$oft's Data Center Server Rooms aren't you


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halcyon-twin*
> 
> You're watercooling M$oft's Data Center Server Rooms aren't you


Yeah the 4 ton press is used to smash the competition


----------



## Fonne

Two new ASUS Motherboard water blocks - Aug 23, 2012

http://www.ekwb.com/news/248/19/Two-new-ASUS-Motherboard-water-blocks-about-to-be-released/

- EK-MOSFET MAX V GENE for ASUS Maximus V GENE mosfet water block and
- EK-FB KIT Z9PE-D8 for ASUS Z9PE-D8 WS Full Board Kit water block (2 × mosfet block + PCH water block).


----------



## hammerforged

^

Those freaking circles on the ends look like smiley faces with the bolt placement ha.


----------



## Fonne

Haha, a happy waterblock


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ^
> Those freaking circles on the ends look like smiley faces with the bolt placement ha.


Its a happy waterblock










EDIT: Somebody said it before me (this can be deleted)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ^
> Those freaking circles on the ends look like smiley faces with the bolt placement ha.


You just cracked me up










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Two new ASUS Motherboard water blocks - Aug 23, 2012
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/248/19/Two-new-ASUS-Motherboard-water-blocks-about-to-be-released/
> - EK-MOSFET MAX V GENE for ASUS Maximus V GENE mosfet water block and
> - EK-FB KIT Z9PE-D8 for ASUS Z9PE-D8 WS Full Board Kit water block (2 × mosfet block + PCH water block).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There's nothing holding the mosfet block on! FAIL!


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Yeah the 4 ton press is used to smash the competition


4 ton press eat your heart out.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heavy_Press_Program


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> There's nothing holding the mosfet block on! FAIL!


how do you figure that? the screws are on the underside of the motherboard screw directly into the copper portion of the block, you cant see them whether or not its attached


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> 4 ton press eat your heart out.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heavy_Press_Program


nice...now I have a way to dispose of the dead bodies








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> how do you figure that? the screws are on the underside of the motherboard screw directly into the copper portion of the block, you cant see them whether or not its attached


wait...wut?!?









When did they start doing that? Must be something new, because all of the mosfet blocks I've ever had screw in on the front...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> One DDC should be plenty depending on how much you're pushing through to complete the loop. I have 2 in my system and one of those gets cycled occasionally but is pretty much my backup plan should the primary fail on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Fonne... Just contack bmaverick here and he... nvm Ecks was quicker than I was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....." *depending on how much you're pushing through to complete the loop* "...
> 
> my english lessons failed me here...What do you mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> And do you mean that your second ddc turns on occasionally ?
> 
> I¨m considering buying a 35x, because f the res and the flow rate, and ofc the pwm
> 
> Was measuring to see if I could fit dual d5 with the bitapower top, and a BP 80 res....more of a future proof solusion haha!
> 
> Thanks for the help Ceadder !
Click to expand...

What I mean is if you have lots of right angles, you'll probably require more than one. Regardless of brand or type. D5 or DDC.









My second DDC works properly. I just have it off most of the time since it's my fail safe device should the primary fail. I turn it on occasionally(once a month) to make sure I know it's working. I do so by powering it up(using my fan controller) and powering the other down and let it run for 15 minutes. If the system screams at me when it reaches 50c then I know the pump needs to be replaced. If not we're good and it gets shut off the primary gets turned back on (not in this order of course) and the system is protected. Board shut off is set for 57c so even when I am not home I'm protected.









If you're in the States (and a few other countries) I would seriously consider buying one of bmavs DDC-1Ts'. That's what I have and they are EPIC for the price.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Two new ASUS Motherboard water blocks - Aug 23, 2012
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/248/19/Two-new-ASUS-Motherboard-water-blocks-about-to-be-released/
> 
> - EK-MOSFET MAX V GENE for ASUS Maximus V GENE mosfet water block and
> - EK-FB KIT Z9PE-D8 for ASUS Z9PE-D8 WS Full Board Kit water block (2 × mosfet block + PCH water block).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The ones in the middle look like that eye that chases you around in that dungeon with the water in it in Zelda the legend of the Ocharina? It's been a LONG time and a LOT of games since I played so please bear with the title if I got it wrong.







lulz

Actually doesn't look half bad when mated with a Supreme HF v2.

Still fugly as hell though when you know they don't offer v1 or v2 anymore.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

ocarina of time , unless your a vintage " a link to a past " person ( which was awesome !!)


----------



## nyk20z3

Crappy pics for now but my 800D build is finally done for now -


----------



## Ceadderman

Love the look of that RheoSmart with the PWM engaged.









~Ceadder


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love the look of that RheoSmart with the PWM engaged.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I wish that was in stock when I was shopping fan controllers, I got the 3 channel version of that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love the look of that RheoSmart with the PWM engaged.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish that was in stock when I was shopping fan controllers, I got the 3 channel version of that.
Click to expand...

I have the same one you do. Is all I need til I add another bank of fans. For now it does just fine with 2 pumps on 1'n'2 and 3 fans on 3.









Although I could reasonably get a couple 4 Y splitters and run a pump and 3 fans on them. So I'm still relatively okay for power demands atm.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Crappy pics for now but my 800D build is finally done for now -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics


is it just me or is the back end of your rad pretty much against the wall , you need at least a good 3-4 inches for the airflow to work well .. might just be the angle of the shot too though


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> nice...now I have a way to dispose of the dead bodies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wait...wut?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When did they start doing that? Must be something new, because all of the mosfet blocks I've ever had screw in on the front...


yeah the block i have on my P67 sabertooth screws in from the back - ill tell you what though - its a major pain the @$$ if i have to take it out to clean it, the whole mobo has to come out


----------



## Fuganater

Anyone know if Durelene is any good? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What I mean is if you have lots of right angles, you'll probably require more than one. Regardless of brand or type. D5 or DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My second DDC works properly. I just have it off most of the time since it's my fail safe device should the primary fail. I turn it on occasionally(once a month) to make sure I know it's working. I do so by powering it up(using my fan controller) and powering the other down and let it run for 15 minutes. If the system screams at me when it reaches 50c then I know the pump needs to be replaced. If not we're good and it gets shut off the primary gets turned back on (not in this order of course) and the system is protected. Board shut off is set for 57c so even when I am not home I'm protected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're in the States (and a few other countries) I would seriously consider buying one of bmavs DDC-1Ts'. That's what I have and they are EPIC for the price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ones in the middle look like that eye that chases you around in that dungeon with the water in it in Zelda the legend of the Ocharina? It's been a LONG time and a LOT of games since I played so please bear with the title if I got it wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> Actually doesn't look half bad when mated with a Supreme HF v2.
> Still fugly as hell though when you know they don't offer v1 or v2 anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder






Will prolly need another one, as I will get another rad, and 2-3 more 90 degrees ( 4 in total I guess) and more 45's and bla bla bla...

Any dual ddc top you recommend ?

Again, ...appreciate it man


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyone know if Durelene is any good? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html


That's what I'm using. No clouding after about a month of constant use...


----------



## Egameman

Can't find Durelene in my country in 3/8-5/8









Looks like I have to import it and pay the customs a ton of money to get it


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyone know if Durelene is any good? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm using. No clouding after about a month of constant use...
Click to expand...

Cool thanks. I may pick some up to replace my tubing.


----------



## Scorpion49

I guess I'll post a pic of the foldinators loop in here, just a basic loop to keep the two CPU's cool while folding. Temps haven't topped 39*C yet even with ambients in the mid 80's (I apologize for teh blurry, my camera can't do any better):


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What I mean is if you have lots of right angles, you'll probably require more than one. Regardless of brand or type. D5 or DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My second DDC works properly. I just have it off most of the time since it's my fail safe device should the primary fail. I turn it on occasionally(once a month) to make sure I know it's working. I do so by powering it up(using my fan controller) and powering the other down and let it run for 15 minutes. If the system screams at me when it reaches 50c then I know the pump needs to be replaced. If not we're good and it gets shut off the primary gets turned back on (not in this order of course) and the system is protected. Board shut off is set for 57c so even when I am not home I'm protected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're in the States (and a few other countries) I would seriously consider buying one of bmavs DDC-1Ts'. That's what I have and they are EPIC for the price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ones in the middle look like that eye that chases you around in that dungeon with the water in it in Zelda the legend of the Ocharina? It's been a LONG time and a LOT of games since I played so please bear with the title if I got it wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> Actually doesn't look half bad when mated with a Supreme HF v2.
> Still fugly as hell though when you know they don't offer v1 or v2 anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will prolly need another one, as I will get another rad, and 2-3 more 90 degrees ( 4 in total I guess) and more 45's and bla bla bla...
> 
> Any dual ddc top you recommend ?
> 
> Again, ...appreciate it man
Click to expand...

I have the EK v2 but the new Swiftech dual DDC tops are set up a little better. Intake/ Output in the front w/ optional intake on top. My only issue with their setup is that the top Intake is on the Left side which is a good setup for a right access system. If you have left access not so much if you intend to run a Reservoir off the top like I do with my EK dual ddc v2.

Of course it matters little if you have a Bay Reservoir or have your Reservoir mounted in another convenient location.









~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I guess I'll post a pic of the foldinators loop in here, just a basic loop to keep the two CPU's cool while folding. Temps haven't topped 39*C yet even with ambients in the mid 80's (I apologize for teh blurry, my camera can't do any better):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Another Asus Z9PE-D8-WS owner. Looks good.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Another Asus Z9PE-D8-WS owner. Looks good.


Yep, been following your build log for a while now.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*


Nice work, the white and blue go together beautifully.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I guess I'll post a pic of the foldinators loop in here, just a basic loop to keep the two CPU's cool while folding. Temps haven't topped 39*C yet even with ambients in the mid 80's (I apologize for teh blurry, my camera can't do any better):


Get a Vid card with a white PCB and stick in in there. That would look sweeeeet


----------



## ChaosAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Another Asus Z9PE-D8-WS owner. Looks good.


As soon as i saw this i searched for the mobo and the cpus online. Asus 510e and cpus 900e each + mem etc. Damn out of my league. Great systems both of you


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Get a Vid card with a white PCB and stick in in there. That would look sweeeeet


I wish there was one that wasn't a GTX 680 that I knew about! It doesn't need anything beyond a basic little display, but I agree the green card looks out of place.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Nice work, the white and blue go together beautifully.


Thanks! I thought it would work well and I was tired of all the straight blue and red builds that I see a lot of.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Cool thanks. I may pick some up to replace my tubing.


What are you currently using? I've heard some in here mention ClearFlex is supposed to be very good.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> is it just me or is the back end of your rad pretty much against the wall , you need at least a good 3-4 inches for the airflow to work well .. might just be the angle of the shot too though


Your right it's about 1'' of the wall and although my temps are great i plan on moving my desk out some and thanks for looking out sir.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I wish there was one that wasn't a GTX 680 that I knew about! It doesn't need anything beyond a basic little display, but I agree the green card looks out of place.


Here's one: PNY VERTO GeForce GT 240

One for sale here for $40


----------



## canada2005

Here is my new purchase. Sorry cell camera.

Going to try and paint that ugly noctua fan also.

Swiftech really needs to make a clear top channel cover for these MCP35X2 tops


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *canada2005*
> 
> Here is my new purchase. Sorry cell camera.
> Going to try and paint that ugly noctua fan also.
> Swiftech really needs to make a clear top channel cover for these MCP35X2 tops


Nice pump top








Yeah you really need to paint that ugly Noctua. I used to buy acrylic dye for car seats and such at Cnadian Tire. Works like a charm.


----------



## jojobis

the same mother but different fathers..
which is more attarctive..











or..


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojobis*
> 
> the same mother but different fathers..
> which is more attarctive..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like big red there







. The tubing looks cleaner IMO. Although it looks like that may just be because there is less under water than blue

edit:
and my water cooling parts are starting to trickle in. can't wait to build my first loop!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Cool thanks. I may pick some up to replace my tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> What are you currently using? I've heard some in here mention ClearFlex is supposed to be very good.
Click to expand...

The problem is that I can't find clearflex in 7/16ID because I don't use compression fittings and I don't use clamps.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> The problem is that I can't find clearflex in 7/16ID because I don't use compression fittings and I don't use clamps.


I think that Clearflex 60 is not available in that size :


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> The problem is that I can't find clearflex in 7/16ID because I don't use compression fittings and I don't use clamps.


3/8" will work as long as you heat up the tube before trying to install it. The only bad thing is you have to cut off the tubing for removal.


----------



## Fuganater

3/8" over 1/2"?? 7/16 is already hard enough, I'd hate to think how difficult that would be.


----------



## LiquidHaus

finally finished the loop in my rig..


----------



## 4514kaiser

some one like purple i take it







Grats


----------



## mandrix

Finally got my psu/rad cover about like I want it. Waiting on supplies for further mods. Final setup on Dual D5's, both running off a FC9.


----------



## bomberjun

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Finally got my psu/rad cover about like I want it. Waiting on supplies for further mods. Final setup on Dual D5's, both running off a FC9.






I do really like what you did there! Very clean! Only the front panel cables are just a little bit tangled and it would have been perfect.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Finally got my psu/rad cover about like I want it. Waiting on supplies for further mods. Final setup on Dual D5's, both running off a FC9.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now "Sir" you're bad with those TOOLS....


----------



## 12Cores

Updated pictures of my build, I currently have a 120mm and 240mm radiators. Do you think I will see any improvement in temps by adding another 240mm radiator?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Updated pictures of my build, I currently have a 120mm and 240mm radiators. Do you think I will see any improvement in temps by adding another 240mm radiator?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes you would see an improvement with another 240 rad, is that two 6870 in that loop?


----------



## Hamy144

Just some small updates to Project Skeeb


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Yes you would see an improvement with another 240 rad, is that two 6870 in that loop?


Thanks, I think I will invest in another 240 rad when Piledriver comes out. I am running 6870's in crossfire.


----------



## chino1974

Here's a few pics of my loop after the last revision cleaned up the tubing alil. Let me know what you think what can I do ?


----------



## iCrap

Are you using universal blocks on your GPUs?


----------



## chino1974

Yeah I'm using universals. I ordered 2 XSPC Raystorm Unis to match my CPU block but one had to be sent back to be changed cause it came leaking. So in the meantime I'm using a Larkooler CPU block that I modded the brackets to fit on my gpu. For being universal blocks the change in temps is awesome. I went from a Max of 80 and idle of 50 on air to a max of 45 and idles at low 30's. And that's with the mismatched blocks and lower pressure pump which I'll be swapping out for a MCP35X next weekend hopefully.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojobis*
> 
> the same mother but different fathers..
> which is more attarctive..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or..


Dude, WHOA! Oh My, I didn't notice it but you caught it.. Now I wondering the case is under AZZA production?


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Are you using universal blocks on your GPUs?


Eventually I am going to get a Switech bridge and eliminate the tubing going from one gpu to the next so it'll look alot cleaner. I wanted to get some angled fittings but I figured if I'm getting the bridge it wont be neccesary.


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Updated pictures of my build, I currently have a 120mm and 240mm radiators. Do you think I will see any improvement in temps by adding another 240mm radiator?






If I may ask, how do you have the 2 fans cooling the GPU's and VRM's secured? More specifically the one next to the CPU socket.







I've been trying to figure a way to do this with an old fan off my stock AMD CPU heatsink on my boards VRM's. Some tips and advice would be appreciated


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> If I may ask, how do you have the 2 fans cooling the GPU's and VRM's secured? More specifically the one next to the CPU socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been trying to figure a way to do this with an old fan off my stock AMD CPU heatsink on my boards VRM's. Some tips and advice would be appreciated


the one covering the ram, is a ram cooler, they are made to mount to ram, not sure how he mounted the one by the videocards


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> the one covering the ram, is a ram cooler, they are made to mount to ram, not sure how he mounted the one by the videocards


Its usually zip ties.
There so helpful for things like that


----------



## moparbob7

Hey Guys what do you think of this setup. I still need to find tubing and the coolant though....

FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual Bay Reservoir w/ Swiftech MCP655 Series Pump Installed
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14199/ex-res-308/FrozenQ_Liquid_Fusion_Dual_Bay_Reservoir_w_Swiftech_MCP655_Series_Pump_Installed.html?tl=c107s152b179

XSPC RayStorm High Performance Acetal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - AMD (Sockets AM2, AM2+, AM3, FM1)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14191/ex-blc-972/XSPC_RayStorm_High_Performance_Acetal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_AMD_Sockets_AM2_AM2_AM3_FM1.html?tl=c85s139b49

XSPC EX240 Copper Dual-Fan Radiator
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14327/ex-rad-315/XSPC_EX240_Dual_120mm_Low_Profile_Split_Fin_Radiator.html?tl=c95s160b49

Monsoon Free Center Compression Fitting - 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD - Modders 6 Pack Blue (FCC-1234-6P-BL)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14934/ex-tub-1109/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_12ID_x_34OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Blue_FCC-1234-6P-BL.html?tl=c409s1609b213

I just need the tubing and some coolant. I am not sure what tubing is good. I am going for a blue theme and I have the Thermaltake Chaser MK-I case. I also dont know what coolant to go with.

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## niveK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojobis*
> 
> the same mother but different fathers..
> which is more attarctive..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or..


Hi,

do you cool this stuff only with one 480mm rad?

What are your tempsß

Ty

niveK.


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> If I may ask, how do you have the 2 fans cooling the GPU's and VRM's secured? More specifically the one next to the CPU socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been trying to figure a way to do this with an old fan off my stock AMD CPU heatsink on my boards VRM's. Some tips and advice would be appreciated


The fan by the Mosfets is secured by the tube leading to the GPU's, clips from the CPU block and push fan into into the 120mm radiator(so nothing really). There is another fan on the back of the case that does most of the heavy lifting in keeping the Mosfets cool, the one by the CPU only helps a little.



I cut up small pieces of 2 sided foam tape to secure the fan on the GPU's. I use the 2 sided foam tape below for everything in my case becuse its easy, but it does leave a mess.

Link to the foam tape on amazon -

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Double-Urethane-Off-White-16-inch/dp/B00006IF71


----------



## nleksan

I finally got all the rest of my parts in, and I am super excited! I will post pics as soon as I finish unboxing everything.

Some absolutely beautiful white Switch 810 builds here, and I absolutely love the way the two of you have built the bottom covers, they both look great. Definitely will be drawing some inspiration from you all, but I am pretty sure that I have the loop itself already planned out.

I just need to get some gallons of distilled water and I am good to go









Oh, and I am struggling with coming up with a clever build name for my All Black & White Switch 810 build with its hint of red courtesy of a beautiful Rampage 4 Extreme... Hmmm...


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niveK*
> 
> Hi,
> do you cool this stuff only with one 480mm rad?
> What are your tempsß
> Ty
> niveK.


XSPC RX480 + RS240
the hottest core when running prime with 90% ram is 78C


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Updated pictures of my build, I currently have a 120mm and 240mm radiators. Do you think I will see any improvement in temps by adding another 240mm radiator?






What type of temps are you getting with the Raystorm CPU and Gpu blocks ? I'm just wondering because that is the same set-up for block that I'm using. And I also am using the same GPU's as you 6870's in crossfire. Only difference is the CPU mine is a 2500k at 4.8. I am still waitting for the second XSPC Raystorm uni to be delivered. I got one that was leaking so I am using a cheapo larkooler cpu block that I modded to fit on my GPUuntil I recieve the new XSPC Block.


----------



## johnko1

Guys how much time should I leave my block in lemon juice?I tried cleaning it and I think it got worse! I have +10C than before.Also the block has some scratches and isn't that flat.Could that cause high temps?

Now I'm at 75C on folding! was 60 before and it was already high


----------



## KaRLiToS

Is it copper or Nickel Block

If its copper, I did a small experiment on a copper block last year.

And this is the best method I came to, I did a lot of searching. Take a look.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1076619/how-to-remove-stain-from-copper-blocks/0_30

And if you are 15'C hotter, its not normal, I hope you put enough TIM or mount the block corretly.
How can you have scratches if you only put it in lemon juice?


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> What type of temps are you getting with the Raystorm CPU and Gpu blocks ? I'm just wondering because that is the same set-up for block that I'm using. And I also am using the same GPU's as you 6870's in crossfire. Only difference is the CPU mine is a 2500k at 4.8. I am still waitting for the second XSPC Raystorm uni to be delivered. I got one that was leaking so I am using a cheapo larkooler cpu block that I modded to fit on my GPUuntil I recieve the new XSPC Block.


.
I have yet to see the GPU's go above 60 degrees, but then again I have 2 non-reference XFX cards that cannot overclock above 940 on the core. I was running two 5770's at 1000 with these same universal XSPC blocks with a 1055t and they never broke 60 degrees either.

The Raystorm runs cool if you are not forcing an unholy amount of volts through the CPU like I am. I have tried for months run my fx-8120 at 4.8ghz 1.5v 24/7 but I cannot keep the temps under control. The Raystorm is the best CPU block I have ever owned at 4ghz my 1055t would stay under 50C 24/7. You will not be disappointed with your purchase, its a great block. It keeps the fx-8120 running cool at 1.48v, which is huge accomplishment trust me.

I bought the block after reading the review below:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/09/26/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-raystorm/


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Is it copper or Nickel Block
> If its copper, I did a small experiment on a copper block last year.
> And this is the best method I came to, I did a lot of searching. Take a look.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1076619/how-to-remove-stain-from-copper-blocks/0_30
> And if you are 15'C hotter, its not normal, I hope you put enough TIM or mount the block corretly.
> How can you have scratches if you only put it in lemon juice?


As you can see in my rig (signature) I have XSPC Raystorm.I got the block from another user and at first I thought that scratches wouldn't affect performance that much (scratches are really small)
I put enough tim,not much not less


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> As you can see in my rig (signature) I have XSPC Raystorm.I got the block from another user and at first I thought that scratches wouldn't affect performance that much (scratches are really small)
> I put enough tim,not much not less


Can you post picture of your job, its probably a bad mount, have you drain your loop enough. There is no air bubbles in the loop?

You need to tighten the screw in a criss-cross method, you probably already know that.


----------



## johnko1

I reinstalled the loop yesterday and yes,there are some boubles left.But still the temps are very bad.Some air coolers have better temps with higher clocks!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Guys how much time should I leave my block in lemon juice?I tried cleaning it and I think it got worse! I have +10C than before.Also the block has some scratches and isn't that flat.Could that cause high temps?
> Now I'm at 75C on folding! was 60 before and it was already high


Did you drop the whole base in and leave it? You have probably pitted the polished side....
I would do a remount myself.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> I reinstalled the loop yesterday and yes,there are some boubles left.But still the temps are very bad.Some air coolers have better temps with higher clocks!


I would remount to verify.

Have you check my guide on how to remove stain from copper blocks?


----------



## idaWHALE

I could use some help guys. I'm trying to figure out where I can put my pump in my case. The top is going to be full so I need the bottom for the rad in the pics. Any suggestions?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE*
> 
> I could use some help guys. I'm trying to figure out where I can put my pump in my case. The top is going to be full so I need the bottom for the rad in the pics. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ever thought about mounting the pump upside down under the 5.25" bays?

It would work and look original


----------



## simonfredette

as long as the water doesnt have to straight up into the inlet of the pump , it would still work but it puts a bit of strain on the pump


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Ever thought about mounting the pump upside down under the 5.25" bays?
> It would work and look original


I would go with what ginger_nuts said or mount it right to the mobo try underneath the res.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I put my pump like this in my system. I have no problem at all, as long as your water level is over your pump inlet.

(Dual EK D5 Top)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 3/8" over 1/2"?? 7/16 is already hard enough, I'd hate to think how difficult that would be.


Phew I feel ya on that one. Latest loop I ran I used 7/16's over 1/2 inch, and it was a pain.


----------



## johnko1

Most bubles are gone and temps lowered a bit,but still quite high.I will check how much glat is the block and I may lap it.Also I should leave the block inside the acid mixture a bit longer


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> I do really like what you did there! Very clean! Only the front panel cables are just a little bit tangled and it would have been perfect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Now "Sir" you're bad with those TOOLS....


Thanks guys. I forgot all about the cables, they have been on and off so much I forgot to tidy up. I was worried flipping the res for intake from the bottom was going to look bad with the extra tubing but I guess it turned out OK. I had the bays covered but didn't like the result so I ordered more acrylic to start over.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hey everyone has anyone put a rig together using the
CPU waterblock : Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF .925 Silver Edition ?
i was wondering how the performance is compared to a normal copper bottom
block. If good performance i'm going to get it but for almost $300
i want to make sure it's a big enough difference.
if someone out there has one can you let me know how
the performance is and a very brief overlay of your OC profile.
thanks.

I got alot to teach but even more to learn.


----------



## Fonne

2x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full - Triple 140mm
1x EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Full Nickel
= $300 ....

The Kryos HF .925 Silver Edition is a really nice block, but performance/price is just way to high .... Use your money on some highend rads + fans insteed.


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I put my pump like this in my system. I have no problem at all, as long as your water level is over your pump inlet.
> (Dual EK D5 Top)


Now stolen to use as my Desktop Wallpaper


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey everyone has anyone put a rig together using the
> CPU waterblock : Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF .925 Silver Edition ?
> i was wondering how the performance is compared to a normal copper bottom
> block. If good performance i'm going to get it but for almost $300
> i want to make sure it's a big enough difference.
> if someone out there has one can you let me know how
> the performance is and a very brief overlay of your OC profile.
> thanks.
> I got alot to teach but even more to learn.


well considering the heat transfer coefficient of copper is 398k and silver is 427k and its such a small amount of copper or silver i doubt very much that you'll see anything greater that 1C difference between the 2 blocks...

worth the $200 difference? i think not - your better off spending that on a 480 rad with four AP-15s IMO


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey everyone has anyone put a rig together using the
> CPU waterblock : Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF .925 Silver Edition ?
> i was wondering how the performance is compared to a normal copper bottom
> block. If good performance i'm going to get it but for almost $300
> i want to make sure it's a big enough difference.
> if someone out there has one can you let me know how
> the performance is and a very brief overlay of your OC profile.
> thanks.
> I got alot to teach but even more to learn.


theseekeroffun has the silver version. You should ask him


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niveK*
> 
> Hi,
> do you cool this stuff only with one 480mm rad?
> What are your tempsß
> Ty
> niveK.


no... i only use 1 360mm rad








ideal temp 25c to 36c and full load all 40c to 50c


----------



## Hanoverfist

Work in Progress ..Quick run down on new GPU loop.. Not without errors..


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Work in Progress ..Quick run down on new GPU loop.. Not without errors..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that a big air bubble at the bottom of the horizontal res, or just a reflection of the wave effect?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Is that a big air bubble at the bottom of the horizontal res, or just a reflection of the wave effect?


Thats a reflection off the Top..I thought the same at first too..


----------



## idaWHALE

so the last of my parts should be here in the next couple of days. does this look like a good layout? thanks









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## simonfredette

I was looking for the CPU.. other than that it seems just fine , not sure if ive ever seen a 220 mm rad before but then again Ive only been watercooling for about a year or less , seems like it would be awkward for fans ..


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I was looking for the CPU.. other than that it seems just fine , not sure if ive ever seen a 220 mm rad before but then again Ive only been watercooling for about a year or less , seems like it would be awkward for fans ..


I have a H100 for the CPU that I already own. It gives me temps that are just fine ... and yes I know I could get better temps with it in custom loop. Swiftech calls a 2x120mm rad a 220, others call it a 240. Same thing though. Thanks for feedback!

edit: anyone else in socal feelin those earthquakes? haha


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE*
> 
> so the last of my parts should be here in the next couple of days. does this look like a good layout? thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like a great set up for a gpu loop - have fun putting that together


----------



## jagz

If I were to get this EK-DDC X-RES 140 VERSION 2 w/ a bmaverick pump top.. Would I get that infamous loud swirl noise? I messaged bmaverick about that and he said the absence of some cell foam pad at the bottom would likely lead to a loud swirl noise. If so, any that would support a DDC top and still look good? This would be for an external radiator stand so no bay res.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

MY water cooling parts from EK left Slovenia on Friday and are already in Boston today! These are my first water blocks (aside from my H60 waterblock)


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys I have a Swiftech MCP355 pump with a Petra's Tech DDCT-01s top. I hooked it up and it ran awesome but about an hour after I filled it and leak tested it it just stopped working. I took it out and put my old pump back in while I chech this one. I hook it up to power to see if it runs and it seems to try to turn but sits sits still. It seems like it was jammed up or something. I took it apart to make sure nothing was blocking it. And there's nothing visibley wrong with it. Would anyone know what might be wrong with it? And would it be fixable or should I just dump it and buy a new one ? I got this used from someone who had it for about a year. I like the look of the black top and hope I didn't just throw money away.


----------



## johnko1

Was the pump below the res so it was working properly?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Was the pump below the res so it was working properly?


The pump only needs to be after the res,it can be above or below as long as the pump is primed with water before any power is put thru it


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The pump only needs to be after the res,it can be above or below as long as the pump is primed with water before any power is put thru it


Yes,that's what I wanted to say








Thanks


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys I have a Swiftech MCP355 pump with a Petra's Tech DDCT-01s top. I hooked it up and it ran awesome but about an hour after I filled it and leak tested it it just stopped working. I took it out and put my old pump back in while I chech this one. I hook it up to power to see if it runs and it seems to try to turn but sits sits still. It seems like it was jammed up or something. I took it apart to make sure nothing was blocking it. And there's nothing visibley wrong with it. Would anyone know what might be wrong with it? And would it be fixable or should I just dump it and buy a new one ? I got this used from someone who had it for about a year. I like the look of the black top and hope I didn't just throw money away.


Try loosening the mounting screws a little. I've had this happen with a few different tops.


----------



## JohnnyEars

First go at getting it wet..










Temps were with all fans at minimum speed

This is my normal gaming rig, I thought I'd do a w/c build based on my old hardware (1090T and GTX 470) with the intention to look at a hardware upgrade next year.
The XSPC X20 is extremely noisey, and I have a very minor leak from a cheap 45 degree fitting, so I've ordered a load of compressions, decent 45's and 90's... a d5 vario, a Phobya Balancer 150 Reservoir, Masterkleer hose and loads of braiding to do my psu etc, so I'll do an update in a few days hopefuly.

I'd like to give a huge thanks to everyone on this forum for your inspiration and knowlege


----------



## Fuganater

^^ Very nice clean build.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> If I were to get this EK-DDC X-RES 140 VERSION 2 w/ a bmaverick pump top.. Would I get that infamous loud swirl noise? I messaged bmaverick about that and he said the absence of some cell foam pad at the bottom would likely lead to a loud swirl noise. If so, any that would support a DDC top and still look good? This would be for an external radiator stand so no bay res.


Anyone know? Sorry for quoting myself but may be ordering soon


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> If I were to get this EK-DDC X-RES 140 VERSION 2 w/ a bmaverick pump top.. Would I get that infamous loud swirl noise? I messaged bmaverick about that and he said the absence of some cell foam pad at the bottom would likely lead to a loud swirl noise. If so, any that would support a DDC top and still look good? This would be for an external radiator stand so no bay res.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know? Sorry for quoting myself but may be ordering soon
Click to expand...

The res is a pump top... What pump top by bmaverick are you talking about?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have been busy with i46....normal service will be resumed tomorrow...once the stella has worn off.

in other news,my burps taste of pizza.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been busy with i46....normal service will be resumed tomorrow...once the stella has worn off.
> in other news,my burps taste of pizza.


That's odd. Mine taste of coffee
I wish there were more gaming festivals/LAN Parties around these parts


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> The res is a pump top... What pump top by bmaverick are you talking about?


Errr the MCP355 attached to the EK tube res, would I encounter the infamous swirl/blender noise?


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Was the pump below the res so it was working properly?


Yeah I had the pump running after the res and I also had it sitting directly under the res so the water would flow straight down into the pump.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The pump only needs to be after the res,it can be above or below as long as the pump is primed with water before any power is put thru it


I also primed the pump by filling the res and letting it sit for alil while so it would gravity bleed into the pump some. Then as I filled the system I did short power ons to let it suck in water and help it bleed out the air. It actually worked good for a while. At least it worked long enough to let me fill it,bleed the whole system out thoroughly and leak tested it for about 2 hours. Then when I finally started using it it died shortly there after. It just tries to pump and locks. You can hear and feel the pump click as it something were jaming it up. Can I rebuild it or is it cheaper to just buy a new one ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Try loosening the mounting screws a little. I've had this happen with a few different tops.


I actually took the top off top make sure nothing got in it and jammed it up. And when I put the top on tI tried leaving the screws as loose as possible without it leaking and still did the same thing. I have another question if water leaked through the o-ring for any reason would that damge the circuitry of the pump? I'm wondering if maybe it was leaking before I got it and just finished dying when I started using it ?


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> I actually took the top off top make sure nothing got in it and jammed it up. And when I put the top on tI tried leaving the screws as loose as possible without it leaking and still did the same thing. I have another question if water leaked through the o-ring for any reason would that damge the circuitry of the pump? I'm wondering if maybe it was leaking before I got it and just finished dying when I started using it ?


Water will kill the pump and it doesn't take much







You can get repair kits from ebay which I've done 3 times in the past. Search for DIYINHK although he doesn't list any at the moment. You could contact him and ask about the DDC repair boards.


----------



## Devious ST

does anyone know it i can rig up my D5 Veri speed pump upto my Lamptron FC6 Fan Controller?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> First go at getting it wet..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps were with all fans at minimum speed
> This is my normal gaming rig, I thought I'd do a w/c build based on my old hardware (1090T and GTX 470) with the intention to look at a hardware upgrade next year.
> The XSPC X20 is extremely noisey, and I have a very minor leak from a cheap 45 degree fitting, so I've ordered a load of compressions, decent 45's and 90's... a d5 vario, a Phobya Balancer 150 Reservoir, Masterkleer hose and loads of braiding to do my psu etc, so I'll do an update in a few days hopefuly.
> I'd like to give a huge thanks to everyone on this forum for your inspiration and knowlege


I love the look of the case and build. I have been contemplating changing from my CM 690 II to the XL Shinobi,

Being a Black and Blue man myself, I love the whole thing it is awesome.

Just need a spare $150, oh look what I found in my wallet


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> does anyone know it i can rig up my D5 Veri speed pump upto my Lamptron FC6 Fan Controller?


At 12V that pump uses about 24W of power - the fan controller does up to 20W, "up to" being the key words, so youd be stressing the fan controller a bit, but if you were to run the pump at 10V or lower youd be safe. Are you doing this cause the pump is noisy?


----------



## moutwtrng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> does anyone know it i can rig up my D5 Veri speed pump upto my Lamptron FC6 Fan Controller?


As long as your under the 20 watt range you should be good!


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I love the look of the case and build. I have been contemplating changing from my CM 690 II to the XL Shinobi,
> Being a Black and Blue man myself, I love the whole thing it is awesome.
> Just need a spare $150, oh look what I found in my wallet


Ok im done with this forum. total showing off like an idiot. dont like this and never will like..


----------



## TDurden80

A first attempt at a custom loop and at PC photography and at posting photos, hopefully they turn out ok!

The Case is a HAF X, I modded the side panel by cutting out the section for the fan and fitted a full window so it doesn't hide the water cooling goodness.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Ok im done with this forum. total showing off like an idiot. dont like this and never will like..


Just so you are aware, any money I spend on my computer is money which I have saved up usually over months, I have a family, house and car to care for first and foremost.

So yes it is showing off, but a bit like my marathon medal, it takes months to prepare and complete.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TDurden80*
> 
> A first attempt at a custom loop and at PC photography and at posting photos, hopefully they turn out ok!
> The Case is a HAF X, I modded the side panel by cutting out the section for the fan and fitted a full window so it doesn't hide the water cooling goodness.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Being your first attempt I say you have done a fantastic job, the loop looks good and the photo's have turned out great


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TDurden80*
> 
> A first attempt at a custom loop and at PC photography and at posting photos, hopefully they turn out ok!
> The Case is a HAF X, I modded the side panel by cutting out the section for the fan and fitted a full window so it doesn't hide the water cooling goodness.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






I love how your rig completely matches everything from the case to the tubing to the wallpapers,monitors,mouse and even your cordless matches!!! Lol!! Looks good brother. Nice Job with the pics also


----------



## chino1974

Guys is a MCP350 for $75 worth it? I ask cause I think I'm just gonna replace the MCP355 and call it a day. They also have the MCP35X for $90. But I would like to keep the Petra's Tech DDC-01s top I have. Would the MCP35x perform better than the MCP350 with the Petra's top?


----------



## TDurden80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Being your first attempt I say you have done a fantastic job, the loop looks good and the photo's have turned out great


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> I love how your rig completely matches everything from the case to the tubing to the wallpapers,monitors,mouse and even your cordless matches!!! Lol!! Looks good brother. Nice Job with the pics also


Thanks guys, glad you like it


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys is a MCP350 for $75 worth it? I ask cause I think I'm just gonna replace the MCP355 and call it a day. They also have the MCP35X for $90. But I would like to keep the Petra's Tech DDC-01s top I have. Would the MCP35x perform better than the MCP350 with the Petra's top?


This pump list has helped me learn what which pumps are capable of.

Idk, Just get another MCP355 from OCN bmaverick for $35? The couple I've ordered are great, using in bay res's.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Here's what my clear tubing looks like as of today, with ZERO dyes or additives. You can barely make out the kill coil resting atop the block inlet.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys is a MCP350 for $75 worth it? I ask cause I think I'm just gonna replace the MCP355 and call it a day. They also have the MCP35X for $90. But I would like to keep the Petra's Tech DDC-01s top I have. Would the MCP35x perform better than the MCP350 with the Petra's top?


I wouldn't pay $75 for an MCP350. And yes an MCP35X will be be a more powerful pump. The MCP35X comes w/ an awesome stock top already. PWM is also very much worth the extra $15 IMO.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> This pump list has helped me learn what which pumps are capable of.
> Idk, Just get another MCP355 from OCN bmaverick for $35? The couple I've ordered are great, using in bay res's.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wouldn't pay $75 for an MCP350. And yes an MCP35X will be be a more powerful pump. The MCP35X comes w/ an awesome stock top already. PWM is also very much worth the extra $15 IMO.


Thanks guys I'll take both you guys advise and see what I can find either through bmaverick or if not a MCP35x


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I put my pump like this in my system. I have no problem at all, as long as your water level is over your pump inlet.
> (Dual EK D5 Top)


I have the feeling the moment 900D comes out you will get it.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Here's what my clear tubing looks like as of today, with ZERO dyes or additives. You can barely make out the kill coil resting atop the block inlet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa, murkey. Did you get your 590 running?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Whoa, murkey. Did you get your 590 running?


No, not yet... And I don't have any friends with gamer PC's to test the card out on, so that's out.

I literally just filled out an RMA request on EVGA's website minutes ago, so I hope they'll approve it. At this point I'm too embarrased to give my friends any updates on this build, since I've been boasting about it for so long.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> does anyone know it i can rig up my D5 Veri speed pump upto my Lamptron FC6 Fan Controller?


Yeah, like the other guys said probably don't try to max it out. I run 2 D5's off a FC9, but it's rated 50 watts per. I also custom made 4 pin to 3 pin "Y's" because I didn't particularly trust a single 3 pin to handle the current. FWIW I tested one of my MCP655's with a meter, and wide open it pulled 1.8A, or about 22 watts. It's possible it pulled more on startup and my cheap DMM doesn't respond fast enough to catch it.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yeah, like the other guys said probably don't try to max it out. I run 2 D5's off a FC9, but it's rated 50 watts per. I also custom made 4 pin to 3 pin "Y's" because I didn't particularly trust a single 3 pin to handle the current. FWIW I tested one of my MCP655's with a meter, and wide open it pulled 1.8A, or about 22 watts. It's possible it pulled more on startup and my cheap DMM doesn't respond fast enough to catch it.


All motors pull more current on start up. It is called "Motor start current".

But it should only last a very short time, maybe no more then 1-2 secs. Bigger the motor the longer, typically.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> 
> 
> I have the feeling the moment 900D comes out you will get it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I have the feeling the moment 900D comes out you will get it.


No I won't be getting the 900D because I did a nice little modding to my case 3-4 weeks ago. The case is now a Obsidian 1100D









Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWl9rkYxnJM

I didn't have time to post pics yet. I just took those photos and I have no good lightings.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Ok im done with this forum. total showing off like an idiot. dont like this and never will like..


Dude... Cry more.
This whole thread is about showing off.

If he wants to show money he can.


----------



## simonfredette

yeah its a bragging forum and we love it , look and my rig its shiny !! Whats the point of having awesome watercooled modded rigs if you cant share it with others that can appreciate the work and thought that goes into making them .


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Have question for you guys, but first! I just scrolled through the last 10 pages, some really nice and inspirational builds!









Oh well, my question, would it be any noticeable difference between running a "regular" typed SLI/CF loop versus a one where you use inlet and outlet on the same card. Or maybe i should ask, how big would the difference be, since I'm assuming there will be some difference in temps.

See badly drawn pic on how i would like to route my GPU loop, this on 2 or possible 2 3 cards.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Ok im done with this forum. total showing off like an idiot. dont like this and never will like..


You don't even use the same currency, and it's life.

I understand that it is money and all, and how it can be seen as showing off, but then why do we share pics of PC setups that cost $4,000-$5,000? Not everyone has a system that costs that much true, but for the ones who do who is to say they can't share what it looks like? I'm sure you see people driving expensive European cars around in your city/town/village, while a majority of the population can't afford those same vehicles or the fuel.

Back to Pictures....

The before,


























And After,










































Replaced the tubing with Tygon, when I first touched it I thought it was jello or something, not the same as Primochill that is for certain. Replaced the reservoir because the bottom acrylic was leaking when the PC was idle, and placed it under my table next to the sub. Getting 10C less than before at the minimum, I'm just waiting till temps drop, maybe then I can get 5.0


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> You don't even use the same currency, and it's life.
> I understand that it is money and all, and how it can be seen as showing off, but then why do we share pics of PC setups that cost $4,000-$5,000? Not everyone has a system that costs that much true, but for the ones who do who is to say they can't share what it looks like? I'm sure you see people driving expensive European cars around in your city/town/village, while a majority of the population can't afford those same vehicles or the fuel.
> Back to Pictures....
> The before,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And After,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replace
> 
> 
> d the tubing with Tygon, when I first touched it I thought it was jello or something, not the same as Primochill that is for certain. Replaced the reservoir because the bottom acrylic was leaking when the PC was idle, and placed it under my table next to the sub. Getting 10C less than before at the minimum, I'm just waiting till temps drop, maybe then I can get 5.0


Awesome, basicly what I'm doing right now, ordering stuff for an external rad stand.. Which stand is that?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> No, not yet... And I don't have any friends with gamer PC's to test the card out on, so that's out.
> I literally just filled out an RMA request on EVGA's website minutes ago, so I hope they'll approve it. At this point I'm too embarrased to give my friends any updates on this build, since I've been boasting about it for so long.


Hopefully EVGA approves it? It's a shame you've had it for a couple of weeks/months and it's been a useless brick. Keep us posted, curious to see how it pans out. Good luck and I hope you get your 590 up and running soon.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Awesome, basicly what I'm doing right now, ordering stuff for an external rad stand.. Which stand is that?


It is this one from Watercool.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*


Your (Australia's) money is so COOL







would like to look in my wallet and see something other than pale green dead people








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Ok im done with this forum. total showing off like an idiot. dont like this and never will like..


Then be done plz... there is nothing wrong with him doing that? saying he's got cash and its time for an upgrade.
im sure your "i7 920 @ 3.6 GHz " cost money, or your "ASRock x58 Extreme" cost money, as well as your 750w power supply...
This entire forum is based of oh all of it's 200k members "Showing off like idiots", showing off their multi-thousand dollar rigs ( my new one included- see im an idiot too).
its literally no different showing his money for a future purchase dude..


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Have question for you guys, but first! I just scrolled through the last 10 pages, some really nice and inspirational builds!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, my question, would it be any noticeable difference between running a "regular" typed SLI/CF loop versus a one where you use inlet and outlet on the same card. Or maybe i should ask, how big would the difference be, since I'm assuming there will be some difference in temps.
> See badly drawn pic on how i would like to route my GPU loop, this on 2 or possible 2 3 cards.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why does your cpu block have a ballsac chin?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Have question for you guys, but first! I just scrolled through the last 10 pages, some really nice and inspirational builds!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, my question, would it be any noticeable difference between running a "regular" typed SLI/CF loop versus a one where you use inlet and outlet on the same card. Or maybe i should ask, how big would the difference be, since I'm assuming there will be some difference in temps.
> See badly drawn pic on how i would like to route my GPU loop, this on 2 or possible 2 3 cards.


That is perfectly fine. The first card will get every so slightly more flow than the other two but it shouldn't be anything substantial.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Your (Australia's) money is so COOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would like to look in my wallet and see something other than pale green dead people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then be done plz... there is nothing wrong with him doing that? saying he's got cash and its time for an upgrade.
> im sure your "i7 920 @ 3.6 GHz " cost money, or your "ASRock x58 Extreme" cost money, as well as your 750w power supply...
> This entire forum is based of oh all of it's 200k members "Showing off like idiots", showing off their multi-thousand dollar rigs ( my new one included- see im an idiot too).
> its literally no different showing his money for a future purchase dude..


He must not have seen the BBBB build yet


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> yeah its a bragging forum and we love it , look and my rig its shiny !! Whats the point of having awesome watercooled modded rigs if you cant share it with others that can appreciate the work and thought that goes into making them .


exactly!!! i dunno about the rest of you - but when i see a pile of money, it somehow manifests itself into computer parts lol


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> It is this one from Watercool.


That's just the feet, no? What is the actual casing holding the 3 rads?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> That's just the feet, no? What is the actual casing holding the 3 rads?


If he's using the feet for a Watercool MO-RA3, I assume that's what he's using.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> exactly!!! i dunno about the rest of you - but when i see a pile of money, it somehow manifests itself into computer parts lol


If and when "piles" of money are ever found it sure will turn itself into computer parts... I desperately need it. However anytime I have some spending cash seems as though it goes nowhere but into my build now-a-days







And thats the way uh huh uh huh I like it, uh huh uh huh!!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Have question for you guys, but first! I just scrolled through the last 10 pages, some really nice and inspirational builds!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, my question, would it be any noticeable difference between running a "regular" typed SLI/CF loop versus a one where you use inlet and outlet on the same card. Or maybe i should ask, how big would the difference be, since I'm assuming there will be some difference in temps.
> See badly drawn pic on how i would like to route my GPU loop, this on 2 or possible 2 3 cards.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Why does your cpu block have a ballsac chin?


I thought the same thing..









What would Battery Be?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys is a MCP350 for $75 worth it? I ask cause I think I'm just gonna replace the MCP355 and call it a day. They also have the MCP35X for $90. But I would like to keep the Petra's Tech DDC-01s top I have. Would the MCP35x perform better than the MCP350 with the Petra's top?
> 
> 
> 
> This pump list has helped me learn what which pumps are capable of.
> 
> Idk, Just get another MCP355 from OCN bmaverick for $35? The couple I've ordered are great, using in bay res's.
Click to expand...

So you know, bmaverick's pumps are MCP350 not 355. I bought 4 of them and they have black impellers, 355's have blue impellers.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> All motors pull more current on start up. It is called "Motor start current".
> But it should only last a very short time, maybe no more then 1-2 secs. Bigger the motor the longer, typically.


Right. I thought it strange I didn't see a "spike" in current from the D5 on startup, so I blame it on my cheap DMM. I do have a very good bench meter but I keep it out in the shop. My little one I can chunk in a drawer out of the way.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Why does your cpu block have a ballsac chin?


HAHAHA didn't think of it that way, it was supposed to be a ">:3" smiley








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That is perfectly fine. The first card will get every so slightly more flow than the other two but it shouldn't be anything substantial.


Thanks alot.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I thought the same thing..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would Battery Be?


The battery was the res, but i couldn't finish it off as i wanted, sooo.. it became a battery instead.


----------



## Devious ST

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> does anyone know it i can rig up my D5 Veri speed pump upto my Lamptron FC6 Fan Controller?
> 
> 
> 
> At 12V that pump uses about 24W of power - the fan controller does up to 20W, "up to" being the key words, so youd be stressing the fan controller a bit, but if you were to run the pump at 10V or lower youd be safe. Are you doing this cause the pump is noisy?
Click to expand...

How would I keep it below 20w?? Would like it set up on controller as I have a spare terminal as a my fans will be spread across 3 of them

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Egameman

I wanna SLi...and wqas looking at the EK Dual slot bridges... BUt does anyone know if maximus V gene is good with a dual slot bridge ? it looks like it doesn't but... Is it







? The spacing looks like its abit smaller...if you understand me

link to mobo picture: http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1872/3/

And a new update: ordered some Masterkleer tubing and Mayhems Pastel white








...

Next payday it will be a MCP35X with the res..really want the pwm function, and also a new 240 rad , looking at EK XT 240. No room for 60mm thick.

ANother question:

If I use f ex.oastel white for 3 weeks, can I drain it in a bottle, and re use it after I've mounted the rad and new pump? or DO i need to flush and change to a fresh mix of the pastel ?


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> How would I keep it below 20w?? Would like it set up on controller as I have a spare terminal as a my fans will be spread across 3 of them
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


well its 20W per channel (forgot to mention that), so to do this you would simply have to turn down the dial to 10V or lower, since the pump pulls about 2 amps it would work out to 20W (10V x 2A = 20W) - this will be easy to do since the fan controller displays what voltage its running at








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> I wanna SLi...and wqas looking at the EK Dual slot bridges... BUt does anyone know if maximus V gene is good with a dual slot bridge ? it looks like it doesn't but... Is it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? The spacing looks like its abit smaller...if you understand me
> link to mobo picture: http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1872/3/
> And a new update: ordered some Masterkleer tubing and Mayhems Pastel white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Next payday it will be a MCP35X with the res..really want the pwm function, and also a new 240 rad , looking at EK XT 240. No room for 60mm thick.
> ANother question:
> If I use f ex.oastel white for 3 weeks, can I drain it in a bottle, and re use it after I've mounted the rad and new pump? or DO i need to flush and change to a fresh mix of the pastel ?


Ive reused coolant 2-3 times in the past and never had any issues with it - the only time i dont do it is when running distilled water (simply because its so cheap)


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> So you know, bmaverick's pumps are MCP350 not 355. I bought 4 of them and they have black impellers, 355's have blue impellers.


My 350s have blue impellers. You certain on that?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> So you know, bmaverick's pumps are MCP350 not 355. I bought 4 of them and they have black impellers, 355's have blue impellers.
> 
> 
> 
> My 350s have blue impellers. You certain on that?
Click to expand...

This is the title of his thread on TPU

[CAN][AU][EU]Pumps DDC $35 shipped - PP
12 Laing DDC-1T pumps.
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155400

and a quote from that thread.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by fullinfusion
> Are these Swifttec or laing pumps? I know whats what, but mabey you can answer me this...
> 
> Can these be modded into 355's?
> 
> Got a picture of the side sticker and circuit board
> 
> Thanks


bmaverick's response
Quote:


> Sorry, wish these were the MCP355 capable pumps. The sticker shows the model being a MCP355. My pumps are the MCP350. The MCP350 has a different PCB.
> 
> However, the good thing is, the MCP350 runs at 57C under load and the MCP355/MCP35X run at 100C+ under load. So, just adding a simpler performance top or RES top would make a MCP350 run like a MCP355 without the extra heat dump back into the loop.


I have several swiftech MCP355 which have a blue impeller, all of my 350's have a black impeller and an older model that has a red impeller.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> So you know, bmaverick's pumps are MCP350 not 355. I bought 4 of them and they have black impellers, 355's have blue impellers.


I'm sorry you answered my questions before I even asked it. I need to slow down and read the posts till the end of thread before replying or asking questions









Ok now I have 2 Swiftech rads 1-MCR120-QP and 1-MCR320-QP. I also have a Raystorm CPU block and 2 Raystorm Universal GPU blocks in my loop. Which pump would I be better of with out of the 3 ? MCP350,MCP355 or MCP35x ? Almost forgot to mention I plan on either adding a 240 rad to the loop or swapping the 120 with a 240 in the near future. So I guess I have to take that into account when considering which pump to buy. The pump I am currently using was ok at first with just a 240 and 120 rads and only a cpu block. But now that I went to this loop and after running the MCP355 for the short time I did. I feel like this pump is definitely not up to the job. I am using a Jingway Technologies DP600-P which is a 600lp/h pump.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> So you know, bmaverick's pumps are MCP350 not 355. I bought 4 of them and they have black impellers, 355's have blue impellers.
> 
> 
> 
> So if I switch out the impeller from the 350 with one from the 355 will it work? And if so will it help any?
Click to expand...

No. The 350 and 355 have a completely different PBC. This was in my above comment.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> This is the title of his thread on TPU
> [CAN][AU][EU]Pumps DDC $35 shipped - PP
> 12 Laing DDC-1T pumps.
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155400
> and a quote from that thread.
> bmaverick's response
> I have several swiftech MCP355 which have a blue impeller, all of my 350's have a black impeller and an older model that has a red impeller.


That's definitely odd. As I said both of my 350s have blue impellers. Not hard to see with my xspc top on them.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> I wanna SLi...and wqas looking at the EK Dual slot bridges... BUt does anyone know if maximus V gene is good with a dual slot bridge ? it looks like it doesn't but... Is it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? The spacing looks like its abit smaller...if you understand me
> link to mobo picture: http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1872/3/
> And a new update: ordered some Masterkleer tubing and Mayhems Pastel white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Next payday it will be a MCP35X with the res..really want the pwm function, and also a new 240 rad , looking at EK XT 240. No room for 60mm thick.
> ANother question:
> If I use f ex.oastel white for 3 weeks, can I drain it in a bottle, and re use it after I've mounted the rad and new pump? or DO i need to flush and change to a fresh mix of the pastel ?


just put both cards in the slots , if there is no space between them and the area with the video outputs is touching , no gap between cards at all the bridge you need is this and dont forget the links !


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> I'm sorry you answered my questions before I even asked it. I need to slow down and read the posts till the end of thread before replying or asking questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I have 2 Swiftech rads 1-MCR120-QP and 1-MCR320-QP. I also have a Raystorm CPU block and 2 Raystorm Universal GPU blocks in my loop. Which pump would I be better of with out of the 3 ? MCP350,MCP355 or MCP35x ? Almost forgot to mention I plan on either adding a 240 rad to the loop or swapping the 120 with a 240 in the near future. So I guess I have to take that into account when considering which pump to buy. The pump I am currently using was ok at first with just a 240 and 120 rads and only a cpu block. But now that I went to this loop and after running the MCP355 for the short time I did. I feel like this pump is definitely not up to the job. I am using a Jingway Technologies DP600-P which is a 600lp/h pump.


The MCP35x is the better pump. More power and speed control via motherboard. Here is a good description of the pump features http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu1.html .


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> That's just the feet, no? What is the actual casing holding the 3 rads?


Oh sorry those are not 3 separate rads, its just 1 big 1







It's the MO-RA3 from Watercool, things a beast even with 18 sub par 120mm fans. I can't imagine if I put 18 AP-15s or something comparable on it. Unfortunately I went with the low speed high static pressure Corsair fans instead of the higher rpm ones.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> No. The 350 and 355 have a completely different PBC. This was in my above comment.


I know you said that earlier Thank You. That's why I edited it and said sorry I need to fully read threads before replying to posts.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Whats that in the corner?




















Could it be that Coolmiester bought a prototype XSPC case with him to i46?
She is a beauty,solid as hell and i want one....


----------



## sortableturnip

I agree B- that is one smexy case

What vid card is that? The aux power connectors are positioned differently than I'm used to seeing...


----------



## jagz

So I'm adding an external rad setup and another res and pump, just add a 2nd Kill Coil or just use copper sulfate biocidal?


----------



## cpachris

A few new fittings for my build....



Link in the sig.


----------



## Fonne

Trying to see that size tubing/fitting that I will use in my first build, so is started on buying a bit ...





The different between 16/10 and 13/10 is way bigger than I expected - Can see that 13/10 will be the max I can use - Will smaller be a bad idea ? ....


----------



## moutwtrng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Ok im done with this forum. total showing off like an idiot. dont like this and never will like..


hmmm... must be the time of the month?!?!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Hopefully EVGA approves it? It's a shame you've had it for a couple of weeks/months and it's been a useless brick. Keep us posted, curious to see how it pans out. Good luck and I hope you get your 590 up and running soon.


It looks like EVGA approved my RMA. If it turns out that it's my RIVE motherboard and not the graphics card, that's a whole new issue, because I bought that back in December on Amazon... Yikes. I hope that it does turn out to be the 590, and they're able to fix it. If anything, taking this rig apart will be an opportunity for me to clear out the plasticizing that's going on in my tubing. I'm not sure what sparked it, but from what I've read in this thread, that's not suppose to happen so quickly.

...No worries though, my $4500 night light is still pretty to look at. And once it's fixed and I fire it up, I'll want to build another one.


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> just put both cards in the slots , if there is no space between them and the area with the video outputs is touching , no gap between cards at all the bridge you need is this and dont forget the links !






Thnx man







!


----------



## moutwtrng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> How would I keep it below 20w?? Would like it set up on controller as I have a spare terminal as a my fans will be spread across 3 of them
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your FC9 has 5 channels w/ 20 watts per channel. Just make sure your pump is solely connected on one terminal/channel and not sharing any fan with it. If your pump has a speed control up to 5 power settings leave it on 4 to make sure that it stays below 20 watts.

If your pump does not have a speed control, this is where it gets tricky because you cannot run it on full power as it might overload that channel so you need to listen to your pump while you turn the knob to know when it is hitting max rpm and when you find that spot just turn it down a little below full power... Also dont be afraid to hit full RPM while your doing this just make sure that it doesnt stay on that setting.

Hope this helps!


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> So I'm adding an external rad setup and another res and pump, just add a 2nd Kill Coil or just use copper sulfate biocidal?


Haha, I love how the external rad cages are catching on!
Try adding this: http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p12509_Phobya-Xtreme-SUPERNOVA-1260-Radiator.html
In a push/pull with 8 of these: http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2947&product_name=MegaFlow 200 Red LED (R4-LUS-07AR-GP)
To the side of this: http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2988&product_name=HAF X

Fun times


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> A few new fittings for my build....
> 
> Link in the sig.


So Bitspower sold out of their 2012 product line then, is that what you're saying


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Trying to see that size tubing/fitting that I will use in my first build, so is started on buying a bit ...
> 
> The different between 16/10 and 13/10 is way bigger than I expected - Can see that 13/10 will be the max I can use - Will smaller be a bad idea ? ....


The bend radius is quite a bit smaller due to the thinner wall. But if you are using 45˚ and 90˚ rotaries you shouldn't really have a problem. I use the same size on my builds.


----------



## Bigbrag

I'd like to join


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Work in Progress ..Quick run down on new GPU loop.. Not without errors..


nice vid! i really like the sideways res as well! been thinking about doing that on my next build, whenever that may be. your build looks pretty slick man nice work.


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I'd like to join






Very nice!







This beast your primary rig!?


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This beast your primary rig!?


Ya, this is my main shabang. It's an Sr-2 with dual 6 core cpu's for a total of 24 threads. I've just been obsessed with 2cpu systems since that board was released and I this my third time building an sr-2 but I wanted to do it right and keep it cool and quite this time around since the first two I built were noisy monsters with gtx 480's.


----------



## InsideJob

Well thats a monster of a computing machine you got there


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Ya, this is my main shabang. It's an Sr-2 with dual 6 core cpu's for a total of 24 threads. I've just been obsessed with 2cpu systems since that board was released and I this my third time building an sr-2 but I wanted to do it right and keep it cool and quite this time around since the first two I built were noisy monsters with gtx 480's.


Do you have just the 1 240 rad for both cpu's? What are your temps like on that?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> It looks like EVGA approved my RMA. If it turns out that it's my RIVE motherboard and not the graphics card, that's a whole new issue, because I bought that back in December on Amazon... Yikes. I hope that it does turn out to be the 590, and they're able to fix it. If anything, taking this rig apart will be an opportunity for me to clear out the plasticizing that's going on in my tubing. I'm not sure what sparked it, but from what I've read in this thread, that's not suppose to happen so quickly.
> ...No worries though, my $4500 night light is still pretty to look at. And once it's fixed and I fire it up, I'll want to build another one.


Sweet deal! Good to hear you'll get it up and running soon. Hopefully your mobo isn't the cause of the problem? I guess you'll find out soon enough? Also, i'm assuming you used distilled water and at least rinsed out your rad before you ran your loop? What kind of tubes are your using in your loop. The water looks super murky?


----------



## bomberjun

is one EK DCP 4.0 pump enough to push water on a 360+360+480+120 rad set up with cpu,ram,mobo, and 2 gpu blocks as well?


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> is one EK DCP 4.0 pump enough to push water on a 360+360+480+120 rad set up with cpu,ram,mobo, and 2 gpu blocks as well?


I'm not an expert but I dont think it even comes close. With only 400LPH flow rate it would not be able to effectively cool all of those blocks, not to mention push water through all of those rads. I would go with 2 pumps and of a higher caliber as well (just my opinion)


----------



## simonfredette

yeah I would even suggest a couple of D5 or at the very least and D5 vario running at 24, its not even just the amount of blocks and rad but also the amount of curves and bends and fittings , if ou count how many times the water makes a 90 degree turn like when it hits a block .. that slows the flow down quite a bit .. My friend runs 2 gpus cpu ,mobo, ram on a D5 vario and it does ok but he doesnt have that much rad either and I think hes actually planning a dual pump as one of his next upgrades ..


----------



## bomberjun

How about having two of them doing a serial flow? Man... this is the darkside of getting a kit.

I should have bought two mcp655 with dual ek tops if only i knew ill end up with this kind of setup.


----------



## simonfredette

2 in series would be enough I think and the extra security of having 2 pumps doesnt hurt


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> yeah I would even suggest a couple of D5 or at the very least and D5 vario running at 24, its not even just the amount of blocks and rad but also the amount of curves and bends and fittings , if ou count how many times the water makes a 90 degree turn like when it hits a block .. that slows the flow down quite a bit .. My friend runs 2 gpus cpu ,mobo, ram on a D5 vario and it does ok but he doesnt have that much rad either and I think hes actually planning a dual pump as one of his next upgrades ..


actually im running a D5 Strong at 24V and contemplating a 2nd one - i cant let that koolance 24V dual pump controller go to waste you know lol


----------



## simonfredette

thats what I meant a strong , dont know why I said a vario , at least I had the 24 volts .. Id still get two for him , did you see how many rads hes going to be running with that ! If he has 45 or 90 fittings all over itl never flow on just one ..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> nice vid! i really like the sideways res as well! been thinking about doing that on my next build, whenever that may be. your build looks pretty slick man nice work.


Thanks


----------



## bomberjun

You're right. Ill be using at least 10 90 degree rotary for my loop.
here's a shot on what im currently working on. such a tight fit!


----------



## simonfredette

thats cool though , theyre close enough to run one as an intake and the other as an exhaust and just force the same air through both , otherwise exhaust both and cool the inside of the case more ..not to mention less dust


----------



## bomberjun

Thanks for the suggestion, however Ill be mounting a dust filter on my side panels too. Its going to be a push pull config in both rads and will be using 3 ap15 on the left as an intake then 9 yateloons right in there.


----------



## nleksan

Good Lord, those white Bitspower fittings are absolutely beautiful! I am so insanely jealous! I just spent a buttload of money on black ones :/


----------



## idaWHALE

So I got most of my parts today and I have started putting it together however I realized with this tubing the rad and pump were too close. So instead of mounting the pump on the bottom of the drive bay it looks like it will have to go in it; therefore, I will have to mount my 120 rad somewhere else. I was thinking the outside of my case? What do you guys think? I know the extra tubing will cause a lower flow rate but its the best I could come up with


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Good Lord, those white Bitspower fittings are absolutely beautiful! I am so insanely jealous! I just spent a buttload of money on black ones :/


I hate it when this happens, buy something be really proud, then find something better


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE*
> 
> So I got most of my parts today and I have started putting it together however I realized with this tubing the rad and pump were too close. So instead of mounting the pump on the bottom of the drive bay it looks like it will have to go in it; therefore, I will have to mount my 120 rad somewhere else. I was thinking the outside of my case? What do you guys think? I know the extra tubing will cause a lower flow rate but its the best I could come up with
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Would it work if you turned the radiator so the fittings would be toward the rear of the case?


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Would it work if you turned the radiator so the fittings would be toward the rear of the case?


Thats what I ended up going with. The rad is at the front of the bay with the pump in behind it. Hopefully it will get some decent air flow. I got all of the rads in and flushed. Also flushed the blocks which just arrived. Hopefully I can put it all together tomorrow


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Do you have just the 1 240 rad for both cpu's? What are your temps like on that?


No i actually squeezed two 240mm rads in the bottom. I did an XSPC rad stand for the one closest to the front door.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread UPDATED.

Welcome to all the new watercoolers!


----------



## TDurden80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thread UPDATED.
> Welcome to all the new watercoolers!


Thanks very much, this is the first club I've ever joined









It's great to be part of something with other like minded people, it kind of makes all the effort worth it. There are some absolutely amazing machines to be seen here.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> You're right. Ill be using at least 10 90 degree rotary for my loop.
> here's a shot on what im currently working on. such a tight fit!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


check this out - i might make your pump making decisions a little easier









http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-and-radiator-optimizer-spreadsheet/


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> You're right. Ill be using at least 10 90 degree rotary for my loop.
> here's a shot on what im currently working on. such a tight fit!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check this out - i might make your pump making decisions a little easier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-and-radiator-optimizer-spreadsheet/
Click to expand...

I don't really use this because it is missing so many things. Rads, CPU blocks, GPU blocks. I understand its 1 guy doing it so its hard to do them all.

bundymania needs to do one because he gets like every peice of WCing gear.


----------



## mandrix

Does anyone know if there's a spot on the pcb of a MCP655 to tap for rpm? Also, is there a difference in the pcb's between the Swiftech MCP655 and Koolance PMP-450?
A pic of the pcb of the PMP-450 would be fantastic.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Glad I put dust filters on my rad fans! They are already a filthy mess!


----------



## steelkevin

Hi everybody, never came to this club, in fact I'm only on OCN for the NZXT Phantom club but I'm going to be water cooling very soon (in a week or two it'll be up and running) and I figured I'd better ask questions here than bother the Phantom owners with them as I'm used to.

Parts:
- *EK Supreme HF Full Copper*
- Two *EK-CoolStream RAD XTC* (280)
- *Laing DDC-1 Plus 12 Volts* (*Swiftech MCP355*) + *Alphacool plexi top*
- Four *Noctua NF P14 FLX*
- Four *Yate Loon D14SM-12*
- The first version of the *Alphacool HF 38 Cape Cyclone 250 V.2*
- *Temp Sensor*
- Two bottles of *EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE (premix 1000mL)*

The only parts I could change are: coolant, fittings, tubing, Yate loons(but really, I'don't think I can find anything that cheap). I'm on a very tight budget and everything else is second hand.

I need your help on tubing and fittings. I'm thinking about getting clear tubing although I've noticed that you don't see the coolant the same color as in the reservoir (maybe that depends on tubing). As for compression fittings because of my budget I was looking at 8/11 ones (so obviously 8/11 tubing too). On aquatuning they've got some for less than a euro and rotary *45* and *90°* ones for less than 2€. I'm not sure of the color at all, it could be either *black* or *silver* ones (the 45 and 90° have the same tints as the normal ones btw).
Thicker tubing/fittings would cost easily twice that price (it goes up to 5 times the price of 8/11mm actually) but maybe so thin tubing would look ugly. Can anybody here link me to tubing comparisons (like a photo of every possible size to compare them). And I'd also like photos of installed loops with grey and black fittings as well as different sized tubing if possible.

Thanks.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Hi everybody, never came to this club, in fact I'm only on OCN for the NZXT Phantom club but I'm going to be water cooling very soon (in a week or two it'll be up and running) and I figured I'd better ask questions here than bother the Phantom owners with them as I'm used to.
> Parts:
> - *EK Supreme HF Full Copper*
> - Two *EK-CoolStream RAD XTC* (280)
> - *Laing DDC-1 Plus 12 Volts* (*Swiftech MCP355*) + *Alphacool plexi top*
> - Four *Noctua NF P14 FLX*
> - Four *Yate Loon D14SM-12*
> - The first version of the *Alphacool HF 38 Cape Cyclone 250 V.2*
> - *Temp Sensor*
> - Two bottles of *EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE (premix 1000mL)*
> The only parts I could change are: coolant, fittings, tubing, Yate loons(but really, I'don't think I can find anything that cheap). I'm on a very tight budget and everything else is second hand.
> I need your help on tubing and fittings. I'm thinking about getting clear tubing although I've noticed that you don't see the coolant the same color as in the reservoir (maybe that depends on tubing). As for compression fittings because of my budget I was looking at 8/11 ones (so obviously 8/11 tubing too). On aquatuning they've got some for less than a euro and rotary *45* and *90°* ones for less than 2€. I'm not sure of the color at all, it could be either *black* or *silver* ones (the 45 and 90° have the same tints as the normal ones btw).
> Thicker tubing/fittings would cost easily twice that price (it goes up to 5 times the price of 8/11mm actually) but maybe so thin tubing would look ugly. Can anybody here link me to tubing comparisons (like a photo of every possible size to compare them). And I'd also like photos of installed loops with grey and black fittings as well as different sized tubing if possible.
> Thanks.


I wont be able to help you out with the tubing thing but if i could make a suggestion to save money, id ditch the coolant and go for distilled water - $1 for a gallon vs 10-20 a litre for coolant. You wont notice the difference in temps plus it makes it easier to tear down and rebuild your loop (which if youre like me will happen a lot lol)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, but then he won't have the UV blue color that he wants. Some of us care about aesthetics too...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thread UPDATED.
> Welcome to all the new watercoolers!


Thank You For Taking The Time For This..


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> I wont be able to help you out with the tubing thing but if i could make a suggestion to save money, id ditch the coolant and go for distilled water - $1 for a gallon vs 10-20 a litre for coolant. You wont notice the difference in temps plus it makes it easier to tear down and rebuild your loop (which if youre like me will happen a lot lol)


Thanks for the advice but isn't the point of pre-mixes that they've already got everything you could possibly need in them (anti-algae and other stuff that keep your loop clean ?) ? Oh and this might sound like a stupid thing to ask but is distilled water (like the on used for ironing) non conductive ?
Btw, I really want "dark" blue liquid and if I went with clear coolant I'd have to get one of those tiny bottles of mayhem's dye which would cost me more than a liter of that EK stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, but then he won't have the UV blue color that he wants. Some of us care about aesthetics too...


Yeah, I'm trying to save as much as possible but I really can't compromise on the coolant's color (I don't care about UV effects).


----------



## Egameman

I would rather spend more money on something like MAyhems UV blue or EKoolant blue..than distilled water. I use DI water for flushing and mixing concentrates, like MAyhems pastel range...

Getting some Durelene tubing in the mail on Friday , unfortunately they didnt have 3/8-5/8 ....so 3/8-9/16 it is for now,and back to using barbs. Getting Durelene bacause of Mayhems Pastel White, and that testing shows it don't go well with Tygon ,nor primoflex

Will get the right size later, but it takes my local supplier 2 months to get it because they order it from the US, and it's being shipped with a boat over to Norway .
And i refuse to buy it online from abroad..


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Mayhems is definitely the way to go...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Thanks for the advice but isn't the point of pre-mixes that they've already got everything you could possibly need in them (anti-algae and other stuff that keep your loop clean ?) ? Oh and this might sound like a stupid thing to ask but is distilled water (like the on used for ironing) non conductive ?
> Btw, I really want "dark" blue liquid and if I went with clear coolant I'd have to get one of those tiny bottles of mayhem's dye which would cost me more than a liter of that EK stuff.
> Yeah, I'm trying to save as much as possible but I really can't compromise on the coolant's color (I don't care about UV effects).


just thought id throw it out there, mayhem dyes are $7 a tiny bottle that lasts a long time, silver kill coils are $5 that pretty much last forever and theres always the option of getting blue tubing - which doesnt cost more than clear if i recall correctly.

but on another note, ive ran ek coolant for a long time and it was great lol


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> just thought id throw it out there, mayhem dyes are $7 a tiny bottle that lasts a long time, silver kill coils are $5 that pretty much last forever and theres always the option of getting blue tubing - which doesnt cost more than clear if i recall correctly.
> but on another note, ive ran ek coolant for a long time and it was great lol


It's really messed up but French actually pay more for UK products than Americans. So without shipping it'd cost me 7.03€ without counting shipping (I can get it from the aquatuning though so I could order it at the same time as the rest) and there's still anti algae and stuff in the pre-mixes. Thank you though.
I was going to get blue tubing at first because of how depending on your tubing the coolant's color looks different than what you see in the reservoir but after looking around I figured that the only colored tubing that I may like was white. And no, it's exactly the same price as clear tubing.

Glad you enjoy EK's coolant







.


----------



## nleksan

Regarding an alternative to the Yate Loon 140 fans, the Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm are incredibly strong performers (huge static pressure for 140mm fans, in fact the highest I know of) and can be found as low as $8/ea when Tiger Direct has them in stock. Also, since they're ball bearing fans, they can work in any orientation, whereas sleeve bearings must be mounted vertically (like front intake or rear exhaust, not as floor intake or top exhaust).


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Regarding an alternative to the Yate Loon 140 fans, the Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm are incredibly strong performers (huge static pressure for 140mm fans, in fact the highest I know of) and can be found as low as $8/ea when Tiger Direct has them in stock. Also, since they're ball bearing fans, they can work in any orientation, whereas sleeve bearings must be mounted vertically (like front intake or rear exhaust, not as floor intake or top exhaust).


Ok, I've got to admit you sort of confused me there. I didn't even know about fans being either "ball bearing" or "sleeve bearing". How comes the second category can't be mounted horizontally ? Are those Yate Loons "sleeve bearing" fans







? I was going to use them on the top radiator. The bottom rad could be mounted on its side so I can use "sleeve bearing" fans I guess but it probably would look as good and I'd have to get "L" mounts for it or find a good way of making it stay in place.

If those Yate Loons wouldn't work do you recon I could just have 2 Noctuas per rad ?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Regarding an alternative to the Yate Loon 140 fans, the Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm are incredibly strong performers (huge static pressure for 140mm fans, in fact the highest I know of) and can be found as low as $8/ea when Tiger Direct has them in stock. Also, since they're ball bearing fans, they can work in any orientation, whereas sleeve bearings must be mounted vertically (like front intake or rear exhaust, not as floor intake or top exhaust).


I know you would appreciate this:


----------



## hammerforged

Via XSPC Facebook there appears to be an XSPC Raystorm style GTX680 block in the works.

Just a heads up for anyone interested.


----------



## simonfredette

yeah to save money and trouble I went with a dark blue UV colored tubing and run distilled , like it was said the kill coil is all you really need .. The coolant other than costing a lot more is more of a pain when you make changes to the loop , especially if you are going to re-use it ..you need to flush the system if you want to change color and it has abigger chance of leaving deposits in the loop. And distilled water is technically non-conductive but thats really only until it touches your system ,the process of distilling the water rids it of impurities ( and more on a chemical level that I dont understand .. ) but as soon as you put it in your system and it mixes with a bit of dust or a bit of corrosion gunk anything it isnt really distilled anymore. Its still the stuff to use if your going to run straight water but dont think that when you take the water out 6 months later that its still distilled water . Mayhem dyes are a great compromise too , the colors are really bright and it only takes a few drops out of the bottle so it will last you a long long time .


----------



## steelkevin

Thanks for the answers but I really think I'm going to stick with the EK UV Blue coolant and clear tubing for aesthetics.

I can't find any work log or just a simple photo using 8/11mm tubing. That's probably because Americans don't use mms for tubing. 8mm is the ID and 11mm the OD. I think Americans only tell the ID or OD like for 10/13mm they'd say 1/2" or whatever (those are just random sizes, they're probably wrong).

Anybody got a picture of different sizes of tubing next to each other ?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I got 3/8 ID and 1/2 ID tubing when planning my system and tbh the 3/8 just looked too small to my eye. Just depends on what your feeling is on it...


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I got 3/8 ID and 1/2 ID tubing when planning my system and tbh the 3/8 just looked too small to my eye. Just depends on what your feeling is on it...


So 8/11mm is called 3/8 ?
That'll help me find the pictures I'm looking for, thanks.


----------



## simonfredette

not just americans , we go with those sizes in canada too even though we dont typically go with inches ,we still can a two by four a 2x4 , same with watercooling things , 8/11 looks pretty close to 3/ID 1/2OD , and btw obviously the 8 is in and 11 is out , the inside wont be bigger than the outside.. but I find 3/8 1/2 to be very small to work with , I use small tubing but I prefer 3/8 5/8 for sure , the tubing is thicker so it doesnt kink as easily .. that in mm would be the sizes closest to 9.5/15.9 .. You have to think about if your going clear tubing with colored coolant too , if you get a thicker walled tubing like the one I use its going to look like the tubing is thick glossy glass over the liquid going through , like you will see the tubing, if you go thinner walled the clear tubing over the coolant wont be quite so visible , and again you really need decent lighting to see that with dark coolant anyways /

I founda picture a few dozen pages back that kinda shows what I mean about the thickness of the walls ..



you see how a thinner tubing looks like between the graphics cards where you cant see the plastic and then on the bottom after that 45 degree fitting you can see plastic around it .. It looks like it might be just the camera angle and lighting but thats kind of the effect im talking about .


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> not just americans , we go with those sizes in canada too even though we dont typically go with inches ,we still can a two by four a 2x4 , same with watercooling things , 8/11 looks pretty close to 3/ID 1/2OD , and btw obviously the 8 is in and 11 is out , the inside wont be bigger than the outside.. but I find 3/8 1/2 to be very small to work with , I use small tubing but I prefer 3/8 5/8 for sure , the tubing is thicker so it doesnt kink as easily .. that in mm would be the sizes closest to 9.5/15.9 .. You have to think about if your going clear tubing with colored coolant too , if you get a thicker walled tubing like the one I use its going to look like the tubing is thick glossy glass over the liquid going through , like you will see the tubing, if you go thinner walled the clear tubing over the coolant wont be quite so visible , and again you really need decent lighting to see that with dark coolant anyways /


Ok so it's thick tubing that makes the color look different (and obviously the tube itself) ?
From what you were saying I think 3/8 tubing is 10/13mm and the thicker one you mention would be 10/16mm.

Oh, just looked on aquatuning, they actually tell you which size is what (http://www.aquatuning.fr/index.php/language/fr/cPath/31).
And it looks like for tubing you only have to mention the OD, it's fitting that are 8/11mm, tubing would be either 11mm or 7/16".

So the tubing I'm considering is actually even smaller than the one you were thinking about and thought was already too small xD.

EDIT: Oh, that's not how I pictured it but it goes the same way. I mean that I prefer how thinner walls look.
And I think I really shouldn't bother and just go for 7/16" as I was. If I don't like it I'll change it (whenever I have enough to money to replace the fittings, or I'll get second hand ones). Now it's just about picking the right tubing out of the few they've got on that site and deciding exactly how I'll route them so I can order the right fittings.


----------



## CyanSnow

Here is my most recent build, I got rid of my original Corsair 600t build and started this one with much more planning in the appearance of the overall build.

PSU Was fully sleeved with paracord, tried sleeving with MDPC but just didn't like how shiny it was. Probably going to replace my 2600k/P8Z68V pro and get a 980x and a Asus ROG black edition motherboard, and fully cool the motherboard. Pump needs replacing as well, it's a DCP 4.0 bought for 35 dollars locally, good pump but planning on replacing with a D5 or a 655 eventually. Potentially will watercool a second graphics card eventually, but I'm not sure when. Also going to replace the bottom radiators (240+120mm) with a full 480mm someday, but these rads keep my GPU cool at around 36c at 90-100% load, and cpu in the 45-50 range.


----------



## Shadowness

Hey Guys,

I tried looking all around but i cant find a single video or detailed pictures about the XSPC Razor block for the 690. Hydrocopper in Europe is *dead*







( read : no way of getting the block here ), but XSPC is there, the only thing is, there is not enough pictures from different angles, etc. Could anyone post theirs ?









I'd really, really like to see them mounted in, because i am kind of going crazy over the tiny part that is not covered by the block, already planning on having someone cut a piece of metal, paint it dark gray and put it in there


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyanSnow*
> 
> Here is my most recent build, I got rid of my original Corsair 600t build and started this one with much more planning in the appearance of the overall build.
> PSU Was fully sleeved with paracord, tried sleeving with MDPC but just didn't like how shiny it was. Probably going to replace my 2600k/P8Z68V pro and get a 980x and a Asus ROG black edition motherboard, and fully cool the motherboard. Pump needs replacing as well, it's a DCP 4.0 bought for 35 dollars locally, good pump but planning on replacing with a D5 or a 655 eventually. Potentially will watercool a second graphics card eventually, but I'm not sure when. Also going to replace the bottom radiators (240+120mm) with a full 480mm someday, but these rads keep my GPU cool at around 36c at 90-100% load, and cpu in the 45-50 range.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Speaking of shiny, where did you get that black paracord? All I've bought never looks that shiny, unless it's some kind of effect from the lighting.


----------



## martinhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyanSnow*
> 
> Here is my most recent build, I got rid of my original Corsair 600t build and started this one with much more planning in the appearance of the overall build.
> PSU Was fully sleeved with paracord, tried sleeving with MDPC but just didn't like how shiny it was. Probably going to replace my 2600k/P8Z68V pro and get a 980x and a Asus ROG black edition motherboard, and fully cool the motherboard. Pump needs replacing as well, it's a DCP 4.0 bought for 35 dollars locally, good pump but planning on replacing with a D5 or a 655 eventually. Potentially will watercool a second graphics card eventually, but I'm not sure when. Also going to replace the bottom radiators (240+120mm) with a full 480mm someday, but these rads keep my GPU cool at around 36c at 90-100% load, and cpu in the 45-50 range.


What res is that ?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> not just americans , we go with those sizes in canada too even though we dont typically go with inches ,we still can a two by four a 2x4 , same with watercooling things , 8/11 looks pretty close to 3/ID 1/2OD , and btw obviously the 8 is in and 11 is out , the inside wont be bigger than the outside.. but I find 3/8 1/2 to be very small to work with , I use small tubing but I prefer 3/8 5/8 for sure , the tubing is thicker so it doesnt kink as easily .. that in mm would be the sizes closest to 9.5/15.9 .. You have to think about if your going clear tubing with colored coolant too , if you get a thicker walled tubing like the one I use its going to look like the tubing is thick glossy glass over the liquid going through , like you will see the tubing, if you go thinner walled the clear tubing over the coolant wont be quite so visible , and again you really need decent lighting to see that with dark coolant anyways /
> 
> I founda picture a few dozen pages back that kinda shows what I mean about the thickness of the walls ..
> 
> 
> 
> you see how a thinner tubing looks like between the graphics cards where you cant see the plastic and then on the bottom after that 45 degree fitting you can see plastic around it .. It looks like it might be just the camera angle and lighting but thats kind of the effect im talking about .


I'm coming in to this convo 1/2 through it so sorry if this is not what you are looking for but...

That is not tubing between the GPUs. Its a Bitspower Crystal Link tube which is made of acrylic.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I'm coming in to this convo 1/2 through it so sorry if this is not what you are looking for but...
> That is not tubing between the GPUs. Its a Bitspower Crystal Link tube which is made of acrylic.


Ok well now I'm sad xD.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martinhal*
> 
> What res is that ?


Try to use spoilers if you're quoting more than one picture


----------



## hammerforged

Shew this is one good looking block. Images from XSPC FB page.


----------



## idaWHALE

Sure is puuurdy


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I'm coming in to this convo 1/2 through it so sorry if this is not what you are looking for but...
> That is not tubing between the GPUs. Its a Bitspower Crystal Link tube which is made of acrylic.


Yeah thanks thats fine I figured it was but I was just trying to show him the difference in look between something with a thin wall like that connector and the clear tubing at the bottom of the picture , he is trying to pick what size tubing he wants .. Thanks though


----------



## Shadowness

:/ Covers more of the card then the one for 690. Guess i might have to cover the naked part with black painted alu afterall :/


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I got 3/8 ID and 1/2 ID tubing when planning my system and tbh the 3/8 just looked too small to my eye. Just depends on what your feeling is on it...






I prefer 3/8-5/8 for small builds, since I have mATX casw (arc mini ) i think it looks awesome, but that me

I ordered 3/8-9/16 tubing because that was the only Durelene tubing but 1/2 3/4 they had in stock... and I want soooo badly to get my pastel white up and going









EK is soon releasing a new verison of their d5 xres top...







AM I gonna get one? YES !

On another topic; I found the Bitspower dragon logo so awesome I wanna tattoo it in the skull I'm doing atm


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> I prefer 3/8-5/8 for small builds, since I have mATX casw (arc mini ) i think it looks awesome, but that me
> I ordered 3/8-9/16 tubing because that was the only Durelene tubing but 1/2 3/4 they had in stock... and I want soooo badly to get my pastel white up and going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK is soon releasing a new verison of their d5 xres top...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AM I gonna get one? YES !
> On another topic; I found the Bitspower dragon logo so awesome I wanna tattoo it in the skull I'm doing atm


3/8 5/8 is what I use , love it !


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Sweet deal! Good to hear you'll get it up and running soon. Hopefully your mobo isn't the cause of the problem? I guess you'll find out soon enough? Also, i'm assuming you used distilled water and at least rinsed out your rad before you ran your loop? What kind of tubes are your using in your loop. The water looks super murky?


Thanks to the fine folks here in this thread, I took their advice and ran hot distilled water and vinegar through the entire loop a couple of weeks before I assembled everything.

I guess I should have tested the hardware before putting it all underwater. That was a rookie mistake I'll never make again. But seeing as I was buying things a little at a time, it wasn't like I could just fire it up and test everything all at once, because the x3960 was the last major component that I bought and needed to make the magic all happen. So I guess I'll take this long holiday weekend and take the rig apart, so I can send off the 590 and clean out the tubes... Or would it be easier to just buy a different brand of clear tubing that doesn't plastisize?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Durelene seems to be the hot tubing these days. Its cheap and mine is still flawless after over a month of use...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene seems to be the hot tubing these days. Its cheap and mine is still flawless after over a month of use...


Any suggestions on how to properly drain my rig without getting anything wet?


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Any suggestions on how to properly drain my rig without getting anything wet?


You can take a piece of tubing with a fitting and attach it to the front port of your res. Then lean the case forward.
It's a pain in the lower back I know, I was in the same boat till I finally made myself a drain line.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Any suggestions on how to properly drain my rig without getting anything wet?


I used to just cut the tubing and hope for the best, since I use barbs -- now I've installed a "T" at the bottom of the loop and I just unscrew the plug to drain it.

Arm yourself with a bowl and lots of paper towels and you'll be fine


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Arm yourself with a bowl and lots of paper towels and you'll be fine


*LOTS* of paper towels. Zipties help, too if you need to kink a hose and take a break


----------



## Hoodz

Here is an updated picture of my rig


----------



## rj2

to each his own,however i am curious as to why the need for 5 qdc`s fittings??


----------



## simonfredette

he can pull the gpus or the motherboard etc without taking the actual tubing off of the fittings.


----------



## nleksan

Drroool (Bgears Blasters pic). Just got my 6


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Drroool (Bgears Blasters pic). Just got my 6


I cant complain either.. These things really move some air and not as loud as i thought...










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Drroool (Bgears Blasters pic). Just got my 6


Soon I'll have 7 more to put on that pile.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene seems to be the hot tubing these days. Its cheap and mine is still flawless after over a month of use...
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on how to properly drain my rig without getting anything wet?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> he can pull the gpus or the motherboard etc without taking the actual tubing off of the fittings.


This is the reason I set up my drain tube before I even put my loop together.

Zero waste of paper towels, drains quickly, if I have to remove the loop in order to add something I can without fear of borking any of my gear. I think my drain tube cost me something like $15 to set up. Though I think I'm going to get a shut off valve so I can clean the loop up a little bit by installing that and adding a cap to the end. Then when I wish to drain, remove the cap and replace it with the tube.









I can't think of how much hassle my drain tube has saved me since I built my loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene seems to be the hot tubing these days. Its cheap and mine is still flawless after over a month of use...
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on how to properly drain my rig without getting anything wet?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> he can pull the gpus or the motherboard etc without taking the actual tubing off of the fittings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is the reason I set up my drain tube before I even put my loop together.
> 
> Zero waste of paper towels, drains quickly, if I have to remove the loop in order to add something I can without fear of borking any of my gear. I think my drain tube cost me something like $15 to set up. Though I think I'm going to get a shut off valve so I can clean the loop up a little bit by installing that and adding a cap to the end. Then when I wish to drain, remove the cap and replace it with the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't think of how much hassle my drain tube has saved me since I built my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Do you have a photo of that drain tube handy Ceadder?
I'm going to be setting-up a drain tube in my upcoming watercooled build, and need all the advise I can get
Also, where did you install the filter in your tubing run? Do you think it's a good idea to run a filter in your system?
Thanks, DerC.


----------



## Plutonium10

I'm about to order a bunch of liquid cooling stuff. Should I use Sidewinder, FrozenCPU, or somebody else? So far I've heard really great things about Sidewinder. I'm in Canada if that makes any difference.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm about to order a bunch of liquid cooling stuff. Should I use Sidewinder, FrozenCPU, or somebody else? So far I've heard really great things about Sidewinder. I'm in Canada if that makes any difference.


Performance-PCs typically has decently low prices.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm about to order a bunch of liquid cooling stuff. Should I use Sidewinder, FrozenCPU, or somebody else? So far I've heard really great things about Sidewinder. I'm in Canada if that makes any difference.


I have used all 3 and have never had a problem.. I say order from where you get the best Price..


----------



## crunkosaur

hey guys, im looking for a bit of help. Im about to pull the trigger on an upgrade cooling setup for a 800D im trading for. Planning on running a RX480 in the top with an EX240 in the bottom, with a EK Supreme HF and the possibility of a 2nd 580 block. What would be the best pump for a setup like this?

EDIT: Sorry, that was an RX480. not 360


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> hey guys, im looking for a bit of help. Im about to pull the trigger on an upgrade cooling setup for a 800D im trading for. Planning on running a RX360 in the top with an EX240 in the bottom, with a EK Supreme HF and the possibility of a 2nd 580 block. What would be the best pump for a setup like this?


Probably a D5 (D5 Strong with 24V for more power) or MCP35X.


----------



## crunkosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Probably a D5 (D5 Strong with 24V for more power) or MCP35X.


does the 24v require a mod to the PSU or an additional piece of hardware?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> does the 24v require a mod to the PSU or an additional piece of hardware?


It requires a 24V pump controller such as those made by Koolance.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm about to order a bunch of liquid cooling stuff. Should I use Sidewinder, FrozenCPU, or somebody else? So far I've heard really great things about Sidewinder. I'm in Canada if that makes any difference.


Does Dazmode not have what you are looking for? They are located in Canada. If not I would go w/ Siderwinder next if they have what you want. PPCS is good and has a huge selection, but their shipping is expensive. You could also try Aquatuning.us, decent shipping prices and shipping is very fast.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm about to order a bunch of liquid cooling stuff. Should I use Sidewinder, FrozenCPU, or somebody else? So far I've heard really great things about Sidewinder. I'm in Canada if that makes any difference.
> 
> 
> 
> Does Dazmode not have what you are looking for? They are located in Canada. If not I would go w/ Siderwinder next if they have what you want. PPCS is good and has a huge selection, but their shipping is expensive. You could also try Aquatuning.us, decent shipping prices and shipping is very fast.
Click to expand...

I've ordered from all of the above, except from Aquatuning. Strangely enough, even with the duty (about $20) for shipping to Canada, on an EK 7950 block, PPC was about the same price as Dazmode, because their price was lower on the block, as well as there being no sales tax on it at PPC. All of them have been good for my watercooling parts orders though. NCIX does have some watercooling parts, but their selection is rather limited.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> hey guys, im looking for a bit of help. Im about to pull the trigger on an upgrade cooling setup for a 800D im trading for. Planning on running a RX480 in the top with an EX240 in the bottom, with a EK Supreme HF and the possibility of a 2nd 580 block. What would be the best pump for a setup like this?
> EDIT: Sorry, that was an RX480. not 360


I have pretty much the exact same setup as that(EK Supreme HF, 2 EK FC-GTX470 blocks, Thermochill 480, and RX240 in a 700D) and I've run an MCP655, MCP350, and dual MCP350, and I really didn't see much of a performance difference. I have since gone back to the MCP655 because of the flow rate adjustment and it's quieter. I would recommend the MCP655 for you too


----------



## crunkosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have pretty much the exact same setup as that(EK Supreme HF, 2 EK FC-GTX470 blocks, Thermochill 480, and RX240 in a 700D) and I've run an MCP655, MCP350, and dual MCP350, and I really didn't see much of a performance difference. I have since gone back to the MCP655 because of the flow rate adjustment and it's quieter. I would recommend the MCP655 for you too


Yea im going to go with this one from Dazmode.https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_d5_vario_8-24v_pump/

Does anyone know a top for this that does not cost 50$ like the bitspower.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> Yea im going to go with this one from Dazmode.https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_d5_vario_8-24v_pump/
> Does anyone know a top for this that does not cost 50$ like the bitspower.


You can get a pump housing with G1/4 threading for $5.95.

I also have an XSPC D5 tank reservoir for sale for $35...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> Yea im going to go with this one from Dazmode.https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_d5_vario_8-24v_pump/
> Does anyone know a top for this that does not cost 50$ like the bitspower.


I have the EK X-Top on mine. Not much less than the Bitspower top, $40. There's the option of getting a res top as well if you haven't ordered a res yet. Or bay res with an integrated pump attachment


----------



## Tom114

What CPU-block for under 50 euros do you guys recommend? To give you guys an idea of what things cost here: http://www.aquatuning.nl/index.php/cat/c835_Intel-Socket-1156.html
Also what clear tubing? I don't live in the US so Durelene is way to expensive to ship to the netherlands.


----------



## steelkevin

Just reposting this because I'm getting all the second hand parts sunday afternoon (150€ for 2 rads, 4 fans, pump+top, reservoir and cpu wb. A single rad with the 4 fans would cost that much brand new. So it's 380€ worth of parts for 150, sounds pretty good to me). Back to college sometime next week so I probably won't have the loop running before the end of next week.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Regarding an alternative to the Yate Loon 140 fans, the Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm are incredibly strong performers (huge static pressure for 140mm fans, in fact the highest I know of) and can be found as low as $8/ea when Tiger Direct has them in stock. Also, since they're ball bearing fans, they can work in any orientation, whereas sleeve bearings must be mounted vertically (like front intake or rear exhaust, not as floor intake or top exhaust).


Ok, I've got to admit you sort of confused me there. I didn't even know about fans being either "ball bearing" or "sleeve bearing". How comes the second category can't be mounted horizontally ? Are those Yate Loons "sleeve bearing" fans







? I was going to use them on the top radiator. The bottom rad could be mounted on its side so I can use "sleeve bearing" fans I guess but it probably would look as good and I'd have to get "L" mounts for it or find a good way of making it stay in place.
If those Yate Loons wouldn't work do you recon I could just have 2 Noctuas per rad


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Does anyone know if there's a spot on the pcb of a MCP655 to tap for rpm? Also, is there a difference in the pcb's between the Swiftech MCP655 and Koolance PMP-450?
> A pic of the pcb of the PMP-450 would be fantastic.


To answer my own question again, yes there is.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Just reposting this because I'm getting all the second hand parts sunday afternoon (150€ for 2 rads, 4 fans, pump+top, reservoir and cpu wb. A single rad with the 4 fans would cost that much brand new. So it's 380€ worth of parts for 150, sounds pretty good to me). Back to college sometime next week so I probably won't have the loop running before the end of next week.
> Ok, I've got to admit you sort of confused me there. I didn't even know about fans being either "ball bearing" or "sleeve bearing". How comes the second category can't be mounted horizontally ? Are those Yate Loons "sleeve bearing" fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? I was going to use them on the top radiator. The bottom rad could be mounted on its side so I can use "sleeve bearing" fans I guess but it probably would look as good and I'd have to get "L" mounts for it or find a good way of making it stay in place.
> If those Yate Loons wouldn't work do you recon I could just have 2 Noctuas per rad


Nothing wrong with Yate Loon fans, I've had 2 YL running for months horizontally in one rig, and I have 8 horizontal in another rig. How long will they last? I don't know, no problems from mine so far.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> Yea im going to go with this one from Dazmode.https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_d5_vario_8-24v_pump/
> Does anyone know a top for this that does not cost 50$ like the bitspower.


you can always just not even buy a top for the D5 pump and do what i did.
i just cut the hose really short near the tip of the top and attached a 90
degree compression fitting on there (or whatever angle suits your needs)
( i had a left over 90 fitting and didn't feel like buying a top)
have a look at some of my profile pics if that interests you








(i can be cheap sometimes lol)
although for my new upcoming build i went allout


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> To answer my own question again, yes there is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with Yate Loon fans, I've had 2 YL running for months horizontally in one rig, and I have 8 horizontal in another rig. How long will they last? I don't know, no problems from mine so far.


Well it's these: http://www.aquatuning.fr/product_info.php/info/p9067_Yate-Loon-D14SM-12-avec-Connecteur--1400rpm---140x140x25mm-.html
I don't know, I mean why'd he be mentioning sleeve bearing fans and how they can't be mounted horizontally ? I don't understand German and aquatuning cba to translate the descriptions although they've got store in almost every country (well the wealthy ones) so I have no idea whether those are sleeve bearing or ball bearing fans. Yate Loon being asian I can't find anything on their website and the international one is crap.


----------



## mandrix

Well TBH all my YL fans are 120mm, so I have no direct experience with the 140mm. But some people have reported that some sleeve bearing fans are noisy when used in a horizontal position. All I can say is that is not my experience with the YL 120mm versions. I'm using both the 120mm UV blue and the plain 120mm high speeds and haven't heard any unusual noises from them.
The UV blue I bought from frozencpu and the plain high speed ones from Sidewinders here in the US.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm about to order a bunch of liquid cooling stuff. Should I use Sidewinder, FrozenCPU, or somebody else? So far I've heard really great things about Sidewinder. I'm in Canada if that makes any difference.


hey man in canada , escecially ontario your better off going with dazmode , hes in toronto so its like next day shipping


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Well TBH all my YL fans are 120mm, so I have no direct experience with the 140mm. But some people have reported that some sleeve bearing fans are noisy when used in a horizontal position. All I can say is that is not my experience with the YL 120mm versions. I'm using both the 120mm UV blue and the plain 120mm high speeds and haven't heard any unusual noises from them.
> The UV blue I bought from frozencpu and the plain high speed ones from Sidewinders here in the US.


Thanks, I posted in the official Yate Loon club to see what they thought about it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm about to order a bunch of liquid cooling stuff. Should I use Sidewinder, FrozenCPU, or somebody else? So far I've heard really great things about Sidewinder. I'm in Canada if that makes any difference.


I've had good experiences with FrozenCPU and Performance-PCS. The only thing about FCPU, and maybe it's just me, they seem to have a high rate of getting my orders with fans wrong. Like with some Yate Loons, sending the wrong LED color, or some Gelids I ordered once, sending the non-LED version instead of the LED version.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Probably a D5 (D5 Strong with 24V for more power) or MCP35X.


I have the D5 strong variant from Koolance, run it at 12V though. I think it was discussed a few weeks in here, there is no real performance gain running the pump at 24V instead of 12V.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I've had good experiences with FrozenCPU and Performance-PCS. The only thing about FCPU, and maybe it's just me, they seem to have a high rate of getting my orders with fans wrong. Like with some Yate Loons, sending the wrong LED color, or some Gelids I ordered once, sending the non-LED version instead of the LED version.
> I have the D5 strong variant from Koolance, run it at 12V though. I think it was discussed a few weeks in here, there is *no real performance gain running the pump at 24V instead of 12V*.


That's with the PMP-450 (D5 Vario), not the PMP-450S (D5 Strong). I find major gains in flow and pressure when I run my D5 Strong at 24V.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> That's with the PMP-450 (D5 Vario), not the PMP-450S (D5 Strong). I find major gains in flow and pressure when I run my D5 Strong at 24V.


Interesting, that's good to hear. Do those flow and pressure gains translate into any measurable temperature difference that you can provide?


----------



## halcyon-twin

i thought about going with the D5S with a 24 volt inverter, but I decided to do a single loop/dual pump setup using the D5S and a D5 non-vario with the Bitspower top and 1/2" barbs. I wanted redundancy and figured the dual pumps would be a good solution for it.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Interesting, that's good to hear. To those flow and pressure gains translate into any measurable temperature difference that you can provide?


This. Curious to see results? I've had a XSPC 750 and upgraded to a MCP655 pump and saw no significant change's in temps.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Interesting, that's good to hear. Do those flow and pressure gains translate into any measurable temperature difference that you can provide?


I get <60C temps when folding with the pump at 24v and around 65-67C temps with the pump on 12v. My loop is not very restrictive, so performance gains would be higher in a more restrictive loop.


----------



## chino1974

Guys where would I fond the best deal on a MCP35x ? I need one a.s.a.p. I have a dead MCP355 and a Petra's Tech DDC-01s pump top I wanted to use. But I was told I'd be better off going with the MCP35x over the MCP355 even with the top.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I get <60C temps when folding with the pump at 24v and around 65-67C temps with the pump on 12v. My loop is not very restrictive, so performance gains would be higher in a more restrictive loop.


Wow that is an awesome difference! Not trying to haggle you, but







?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow that is an awesome difference! Not trying to haggle you, but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


I'll take some temperature measurements later when I'm not in class.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys where would I fond the best deal on a MCP35x ? I need one a.s.a.p. I have a dead MCP355 and a Petra's Tech DDC-01s pump top I wanted to use. But I was told I'd be better off going with the MCP35x over the MCP355 even with the top.


AFAIK Sidewinder has the best price on it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'll take some temperature measurements later when I'm not in class.


Cool, +rep for taking the time to do so. I've seen the Koolance controllers to run my pump at 24V, if there is a big difference, I will want to get one.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys where would I fond the best deal on a MCP35x ? I need one a.s.a.p. I have a dead MCP355 and a Petra's Tech DDC-01s pump top I wanted to use. But I was told I'd be better off going with the MCP35x over the MCP355 even with the top.
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK Sidewinder has the best price on it.
Click to expand...

Sidewinder and Jab-Tech are always my first stop. if they have it in stock, 95% of the time is cheaper that PPCs and FrozenCPU.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Sidewinder and Jab-Tech are always my first stop. if they have it in stock, 95% of the time is cheaper that PPCs and FrozenCPU.


I'm going to start checking them out. I know you are always buying new parts, I see it all the time on Facebook







, so they must be doing something right to attract all your business.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I'm going to start checking them out. I know you are always buying new parts, I see it all the time on Facebook
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so they must be doing something right to attract all your business.


LOL not ALWAYS!


----------



## superericla

All of you non-folders out there need to get folding and join the September foldathon.


----------



## Plutonium10

Does the Swiftech MCP655 have an RPM sensor wire? If not I may go with Koolance PMP-450 because I'd like to set things up so that my system just shuts down if the pump quits. Or is using thermal limits on my CPU and GPU enough to prevent damage in the event of a failure?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> All of you non-folders out there need to get folding and join the September foldathon.


What he said! For science!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> What he said! For science!


And for the people that don't like science, for prizes!


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> And for the people that don't like science, for prizes!


Meh, my PC would be no good at folding. A single 570 is simply a drop in the great folding ocean. Now if I had a 690....


----------



## simonfredette

dont diss 570s , my 2 570s bring about 25K PPD each , not humungous but it helps


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Meh, my PC would be no good at folding. A single 570 is simply a drop in the great folding ocean. Now if I had a 690....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> dont diss 570s , my 2 570s bring about 25K PPD each , not humungous but it helps


Exactly! I used to love folding on my 570's. Every little bit counts! There are some awesome rigs in here, a good 48 hours of folding would be a good way to flex your rigs muscles.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Meh, my PC would be no good at folding. A single 570 is simply a drop in the great folding ocean. Now if I had a 690....


Prizes aren't based off points and every bit helps!


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Prizes aren't based off points and every bit helps!


Thats good to hear. I might stick my 560 Ti in with my 570 and run for a few hours.

Anyway, BACK TO TOPIC


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Exactly! I used to love folding on my 570's. Every little bit counts! There are some awesome rigs in here, a good 48 hours of folding would be a good way to flex your rigs muscles.


Easily the best way to test if someones OC is stable!


----------



## chino1974

I have a 2500k with crossfired 6870's that will be swapped out for a 7970 Black Edition as soon as it's delivered this week. Can I fold with that and will it be good for it ?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> I have a 2500k with crossfired 6870's that will be swapped out for a 7970 Black Edition as soon as it's delivered this week. Can I fold with that and will it be good for it ?


Yes, that would be great for folding!


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Yes, that would be great for folding!


How well would my PC fold ? (in the sig)

I'm one of those people who can't stand not unlocking stuff in video games and I feel like unlocking atleast a 1million point folding badge and the participation thing xD.
How fast would I reach the million ?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> How well would my PC fold ? (in the sig)
> Is folding like bitcoin mining but for different purposes ?
> I'm one of those people who can't stand not unlocking stuff in video games and I feel like unlocking atleast a 1million point folding badge and the participation thing xD.
> How fast would I reach the million ?


It should fold pretty well. I'm not entirely sure how fast you would reach a million, but it would definitely be pretty quick (maybe 2 months?) with both the CPU and GPU folding. If you decide to fold, be sure to enter the September Foldathon. Folding basically folds proteins to help researchers understand why certain diseases are caused, there's plenty to read about it in the folding subforum.

On another note, I just tested the temps with my D5 strong set at 24v and 12v and have some temperature reading info to share.

12V:
CPU - 69C
Core 0 - 67C
Core 1 - 64C
Core 2 - 67C
Core 3 - 69C
Average - 67.2C

24V:
CPU - 67C
Core 0 - 63C
Core 1 - 62C
Core 2 - 63C
Core 3 - 67C
Average - 64.4C

Drop going from 12V to 24V - 2.8C

Note that since this is a very restrictive loop, adding more power to the pump is mostly unnecessary. In a more restrictive loop, adding more voltage to the D5 strong (PMP-450S) can be very beneficial.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It should fold pretty well. I'm not entirely sure how fast you would reach a million, but it would definitely be pretty quick (maybe 2 months?) with both the CPU and GPU folding. If you decide to fold, be sure to enter the September Foldathon. Folding basically folds proteins to help researchers understand why certain diseases are caused, there's plenty to read about it in the folding subforum.
> On another note, I just tested the temps with my D5 strong set at 24v and 12v and have some temperature reading info to share.
> 12V:
> CPU - 69C
> Core 0 - 67C
> Core 1 - 64C
> Core 2 - 67C
> Core 3 - 69C
> Average - 67.2C
> 24V:
> CPU - 67C
> Core 0 - 63C
> Core 1 - 62C
> Core 2 - 63C
> Core 3 - 67C
> Average - 64.4C
> Drop going from 12V to 24V - 2.8C
> Note that since this is a very restrictive loop, adding more power to the pump is mostly unnecessary. In a more restrictive loop, adding more voltage to the D5 strong (PMP-450S) can be very beneficial.


very similar results to what i got, where i saw the largest increase in temp drop was with the GPUs


----------



## steelkevin

Wow. 2 months. May not look like a lot for folding (from what you seem to be saying) but I was thinking it wouldn't take more than a couple full days (48hours). Shows how much I know I guess xD.
Nevermind then.

Ok here's a sketch of where I'm going to be putting everything:

Didn't find a reason to measure "rear to mobo". It looks like because of the top rad the reservoir won't fit but I'm pretty confident it will fit between both of the rad's fittings.
The bottom left text is about compression fittings "Droit" or "D" being normal/straight ones (it's French if you really want to know).

The MCP355 will be fixed on to the PSU with double sided tape, it'll have a plexi top on it.
The Reservoir is weird and doesn't have any top entry (the top is completely closed) which is a nuisance but it's free and a new one would cost over 20€.

I can't figure how to draw the actual tubing with Microsoft Expression Design 4 so I'll just ask you to thick of the most obvious loop (it goes from one part to the closest forming kind of a circle or square all around) and picture the loop taking into account the bottom left information on which fittings will be used where (it'll be 8/11mm fittings, which is 7/16" tubing for americans).

What I'm asking you to do here is tell me whether it'll work with those components and so many angled fittings or not. If you can think of any other way to do it just try to explain it







.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It should fold pretty well. I'm not entirely sure how fast you would reach a million, but it would definitely be pretty quick (maybe 2 months?) with both the CPU and GPU folding. If you decide to fold, be sure to enter the September Foldathon. Folding basically folds proteins to help researchers understand why certain diseases are caused, there's plenty to read about it in the folding subforum.
> On another note, I just tested the temps with my D5 strong set at 24v and 12v and have some temperature reading info to share.
> 12V:
> CPU - 69C
> Core 0 - 67C
> Core 1 - 64C
> Core 2 - 67C
> Core 3 - 69C
> Average - 67.2C
> 24V:
> CPU - 67C
> Core 0 - 63C
> Core 1 - 62C
> Core 2 - 63C
> Core 3 - 67C
> Average - 64.4C
> Drop going from 12V to 24V - 2.8C
> Note that since this is a very restrictive loop, adding more power to the pump is mostly unnecessary. In a more restrictive loop, adding more voltage to the D5 strong (PMP-450S) can be very beneficial.


Decent little drop, maybe I would consider 24V when my cards are added to the loop. o


----------



## idaWHALE

So stupid question here: With universal GPU block do I remove the aluminum plate covering the vram and what not?


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Bare PCB with these on your VRAM and "what not"












Swiftech make full cover shrouds for some GPUS as well I believe


----------



## idaWHALE

thanks! i have the vram heatsinks just wasnt sure if they were needed


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene seems to be the hot tubing these days. Its cheap and mine is still flawless after over a month of use...
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on how to properly drain my rig without getting anything wet?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> he can pull the gpus or the motherboard etc without taking the actual tubing off of the fittings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is the reason I set up my drain tube before I even put my loop together.
> 
> Zero waste of paper towels, drains quickly, if I have to remove the loop in order to add something I can without fear of borking any of my gear. I think my drain tube cost me something like $15 to set up. Though I think I'm going to get a shut off valve so I can clean the loop up a little bit by installing that and adding a cap to the end. Then when I wish to drain, remove the cap and replace it with the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't think of how much hassle my drain tube has saved me since I built my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you have a photo of that drain tube handy Ceadder?
> I'm going to be setting-up a drain tube in my upcoming watercooled build, and need all the advise I can get
> Also, where did you install the filter in your tubing run? Do you think it's a good idea to run a filter in your system?
> Thanks, DerC.
Click to expand...

Exposed...









Common decency prevails...









Friends don't let friends swing in the breeze.







lulz

As far as a Filter goes I don't have one. Don't need it. Not that I couldn't use one, I just flushed the hell out of the Radiator to make sure it wouldn't come back to bite me in the tuchus.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> Yea im going to go with this one from Dazmode.https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_d5_vario_8-24v_pump/
> Does anyone know a top for this that does not cost 50$ like the bitspower.
> 
> 
> 
> you can always just not even buy a top for the D5 pump and do what i did.
> i just cut the hose really short near the tip of the top and attached a 90
> degree compression fitting on there (or whatever angle suits your needs)
> ( i had a left over 90 fitting and didn't feel like buying a top)
> have a look at some of my profile pics if that interests you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i can be cheap sometimes lol)
> although for my new upcoming build i went allout
Click to expand...

Hey man great Pump Setup...

...but don't you think that your pump will be more stable with the mount flipped 180*, so that the stand is directly under the pump?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE*
> 
> thanks! i have the vram heatsinks just wasnt sure if they were needed


As MtnDew said... definitely needed.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bitech

Hi, I'd like to join this club!

Had some friends over to show off my old rig.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> All of you non-folders out there need to get folding and join the September foldathon.


Still waiting for my badge from Chimp...









But, thanks for the heads up, I'm in.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Well I am Done Messing with this for awhile.. calling it quits with this one ..


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> *Still waiting for my badge from Chimp*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, thanks for the heads up, I'm in.


This....I have been waiting myself, and know of some others as well. What's up with that?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Well I am Done Messing with this for awhile.. calling it quits with this one ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think it looks very good, I would call it done myself.







Does that case natively support the 360 up top and the 240 in the bottom?


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Well I am Done Messing with this for awhile.. calling it quits with this one ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sabertooth done right, very very nice.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think it looks very good, I would call it done myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does that case natively support the 360 up top and the 240 in the bottom?


Yeah.. thats a 420 top and 240 below.. With a 750w psu in the bottom.. Any bigger on the psu you would have to start cutting..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Sabertooth done right, very very nice.


----------



## CRosko42

Argh...my 680 might be on it's way out.

Been getting random driver crashes since yesterday but figured it was a software issue. Luckily I keep a clean system image on my other drive and have nothing installed on the main drive other than the OS + necessities. Only took about 10 minutes to re image.

Unfortunately I'm still getting the problem.

Now I went back and reset my overclock on my cpu back to 4.5 with my saved profile that gave me no issues for over a year. I oc'd to 4.8 a couple of days before GW2, had no problems and tested extensively. Been playing ~35 hours of GW2 over the last week, no issues until yesterday.

I really don't want to pull apart my system again, but it looks like it might be the only option since I've completely ruled out software/overclocking at this point if it fails with my old profile.

Been running fine for ~25min since I loaded up my old OC profile for my cpu, hopefully it doesn't act up anymore.


----------



## PCModderMike

I had the EXACT same issues with one of my 670's, definitely turned out to be the card itself and had to RMA it. Sucked, because just as you did I went through completely reinstalling the OS in an effort to troubleshoot the issue. Is it the one where the driver will crash and then a message will appear from the taskbar saying the kernel has been recovered?


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I had the EXACT same issues with one of my 670's, definitely turned out to be the card itself and had to RMA it. Sucked, because just as you did I went through completely reinstalling the OS in an effort to troubleshoot the issue. Is it the one where the driver will crash and then a message will appear from the taskbar saying the kernel has been recovered?


Yes...









Took 5 months to show the issue if it is the card.

Edit: Been almost 45 min since I backed off my cpu overclock, no crashes yet. Running occt as a stress test right now, no errors, all temps are in check. Now I wait...


----------



## mannyfc

downsizing from a tj08-e, if only they made a 650w sfx psu... but w/e


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mannyfc*
> 
> downsizing from a tj08-e, if only they made a 650w sfx psu... but w/e
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why do you have a filter on the fanless side of the radiator? That fan looks to be pushing so you're going to be trapping all the dust inside the radiator. I was confused because the side radiator filters are correct


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mannyfc*
> 
> downsizing from a tj08-e, if only they made a 650w sfx psu... but w/e
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why do you have a filter on the fanless side of the radiator? That fan looks to be pushing so you're going to be trapping all the dust inside the radiator. I was confused because the side radiator filters are correct
Click to expand...

That's his dust collection system. Inspired by Oreck.









If he wants it to work properly then the fan should be flipped so it's intaking through the Radiator properly.









~Ceadder


----------



## mannyfc

placeholder, hardware on the outside was not long enough so left it on the inside for the build to not mess up the fins on the rad, will be placing on the outside this weekend when i get diff hardware and fill the loop and what not, will be using some blueberry, first time using this stuff, hope it looks good.


----------



## N0BOX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Well I am Done Messing with this for awhile.. calling it quits with this one ..


I saw this case you used just yesterday when searching for a case that supports a 420mm and a smaller secondary radiator. Now that I've seen your box, it seems that I have good reason to add it to my short list with the NZXT Switch 810. Thanks for making my decision harder.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Well I am Done Messing with this for awhile.. calling it quits with this one ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Finally, an Elysium done right.


----------



## broken pixel

She's a beauty


----------



## Fuganater

Hmm.... Rusty EX480


----------



## LiquidHaus

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> She's a beauty






would have looked great with the would-be xspc chrome edition raystorm


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice paint job. Brush or spray?









Going for a Steam Punk look?









~Ceadder


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

looks like brush marks


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice paint job. Brush or spray?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going for a Steam Punk look?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its all brush work covered by 2 light coats of clear spray.

You must not be watching my build log...







shame shame.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> This is the reason I set up my drain tube before I even put my loop together.
> 
> Zero waste of paper towels, drains quickly, if I have to remove the loop in order to add something I can without fear of borking any of my gear. I think my drain tube cost me something like $15 to set up. Though I think I'm going to get a shut off valve so I can clean the loop up a little bit by installing that and adding a cap to the end. Then when I wish to drain, remove the cap and replace it with the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't think of how much hassle my drain tube has saved me since I built my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a photo of that drain tube handy Ceadder?
> I'm going to be setting-up a drain tube in my upcoming watercooled build, and need all the advise I can get
> Also, where did you install the filter in your tubing run? Do you think it's a good idea to run a filter in your system?
> Thanks, DerC.
Click to expand...

Exposed...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Common decency prevails...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Friends don't let friends swing in the breeze.







lulz

As far as a Filter goes I don't have one. Don't need it. Not that I couldn't use one, I just flushed the hell out of the Radiator to make sure it wouldn't come back to bite me in the tuchus.









~Ceadder







[/quote]

Lol!








Thanks for the excellent photos! I'll be doing something similar. Rep+








The shut off valve and drain cap would be a good idea.
I don't know why I thought you were using a filter, must have been a brain fart


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Hmm.... Rusty EX480
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is the most original thing I saw on a radiator, and I really love the idea and especially the LOOK of it, awsome


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Hmm.... Rusty EX480
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the most original thing I saw on a radiator, and I really love the idea and especially the LOOK of it, awsome
Click to expand...

Well thanks! Hop on over to my build log to see more









http://www.overclock.net/t/1296668/project-steampunkd-tj11/0_20


----------



## Shiikamaru

Changed the bronze hex screws and stop fittings to silver colored one. My alphacool nexxos monsta 480 with gt in p/p.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Good lord that thing is crazy!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the bronze hex screws and stop fittings to silver colored one. My alphacool nexxos monsta 480 with gt in p/p.



More Pics and what case are you putting that monster in?!


----------



## canada2005

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Hmm.... Rusty EX480






Looks more like a wood grain than a rust.


----------



## Hanoverfist

So i Lied and messed with it Again.







. Stripping the Red out Looks Much Better.. A couple of white strips still to go...


----------



## simonfredette

it does look even better.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> it does look even better.


Man.. IT does..that red was not cool...


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Man.. IT does..that red was not cool...


Yup. Red is becoming the new blue.









I have that same fan controller, nice being able to change the color with a jumper.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Yup. Red is becoming the new blue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have that same fan controller, nice being able to change the color with a jumper.


Definitely Helps when I cant seem to make up my mind....


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the bronze hex screws and stop fittings to silver colored one. My alphacool nexxos monsta 480 with gt in p/p.


For scale, here's some pics from my build log, those rads are not to be underestimated from a space perspective.

Monsta 120.4 on top, 120.3 up front in a TH10 case; look how tiny the RIVE looks in comparison...



Here 2 of my 120.4s fill up the TH10 pedestal.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Good God!


----------



## jamaican voodoo

what monstrosity that rig will be when he's done, he'll need a crane to left it up


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> For scale, here's some pics from my build log, those rads are not to be underestimated from a space perspective.
> Monsta 120.4 on top, 120.3 up front in a TH10 case; look how tiny the RIVE looks in comparison...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here 2 of my 120.4s fill up the TH10 pedestal.



That's all I have to say about that. On to the build log!


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> For scale, here's some pics from my build log, those rads are not to be underestimated from a space perspective.
> Monsta 120.4 on top, 120.3 up front in a TH10 case; look how tiny the RIVE looks in comparison...


At first I thought this was a micro atx motherboard!The case must be a beast


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> For scale, here's some pics from my build log, those rads are not to be underestimated from a space perspective.
> Monsta 120.4 on top, 120.3 up front in a TH10 case; look how tiny the RIVE looks in comparison...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here 2 of my 120.4s fill up the TH10 pedestal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


:0 wow

Anyway, I have a question for all, is this ok?



Seem's quite corroded.

Also, if anyone want's to give some input for my external 3x360 rad stand+loop order thread I'd appreciate it. Figured I'd make it's own thread instead of pollute this one.. but perhaps I should have just asked here. Thanks.


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Seem's quite corroded.


I can't tell if that is just residue or corrosion, have you tried wiping it with a cloth to see if it comes off?


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno but if that's truly Brass and Copper construction it might be nothing more than calcification build up from running tap water through it and not thoroughly flushing it out.

Of course this is my preliminary thought without reading how the initial flush process was handled.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

RayStorm CPU WaterBlock (Intel) Chrome



http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel-chrome/


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> RayStorm CPU WaterBlock (Intel) Chrome
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like shiny things


----------



## Fonne

Its really shiny


----------



## Devious ST

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moutwtrng*
> 
> Your FC9 has 5 channels w/ 20 watts per channel. Just make sure your pump is solely connected on one terminal/channel and not sharing any fan with it. If your pump has a speed control up to 5 power settings leave it on 4 to make sure that it stays below 20 watts.
> If your pump does not have a speed control, this is where it gets tricky because you cannot run it on full power as it might overload that channel so you need to listen to your pump while you turn the knob to know when it is hitting max rpm and when you find that spot just turn it down a little below full power... Also dont be afraid to hit full RPM while your doing this just make sure that it doesnt stay on that setting.
> Hope this helps!


yeah mine is the D5 with the control on the back, what do i need to do it then? and how do i do it???


----------



## jellis142

Hers's my baby, waiting on new parts:



Forgive me on the dusty, low resolution image. Galaxy S picture :\


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So i Lied and messed with it Again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Stripping the Red out Looks Much Better.. A couple of white strips still to go...


looks alot ALOT better than red!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So i Lied and messed with it Again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Stripping the Red out Looks Much Better.. A couple of white strips still to go...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks alot ALOT better than red!
Click to expand...

Say what?!? I don't think I heard you right...









Anyone ELSE got somethin ta say about Red?


















~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Damn that chrome Raystom looks good.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR




----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So i Lied and messed with it Again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Stripping the Red out Looks Much Better.. A couple of white strips still to go...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks alot ALOT better than red!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Say what?!? I don't think I heard you right...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ELSE got somethin ta say about Red?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Don't be critisizin' red around Ceadder!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Decent shot with 15 sec exposure and f4.0


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*






This thing is a beauty







You sir have made something special. Work to be proud of for sure


----------



## tuffarts

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*






This needs some plants and a green tree frog living in it.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> For scale, here's some pics from my build log, those rads are not to be underestimated from a space perspective.
> Monsta 120.4 on top, 120.3 up front in a TH10 case; look how tiny the RIVE looks in comparison...
> 
> Here 2 of my 120.4s fill up the TH10 pedestal.


I have a similar build coming up but this is just full ****** mode wow!!

Question - Did you get the top extended or this is the stock height ?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> For scale, here's some pics from my build log, those rads are not to be underestimated from a space perspective.
> Monsta 120.4 on top, 120.3 up front in a TH10 case; look how tiny the RIVE looks in comparison...
> 
> Here 2 of my 120.4s fill up the TH10 pedestal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My wife approves of this build


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> For scale, here's some pics from my build log, those rads are not to be underestimated from a space perspective.
> Monsta 120.4 on top, 120.3 up front in a TH10 case; look how tiny the RIVE looks in comparison...
> 
> Here 2 of my 120.4s fill up the TH10 pedestal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife approves of this build
Click to expand...

That tower is just so insanely huge. I thought my HAF 932 Advanced was a bit oversized. But that thing is a monsta. (see what I did there?)


----------



## ginger_nuts

Oh wiser people then me.

I am shopping for a new pump.









Because when I ordered two EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge E. - Acetal blocks to go onto my Gigabyte GTX570's I also ordered the *serial* bridge instead of the *parallel* one









So using this wonderful guide I determine my current pump (XSPC 750) is not going to work.

So what I need to know, Is what is my best bet for purchasing a new pump?

I would be buying from PCCG or Gammods

My thought is to get the Swiftech MCP35X and be done with it, but is this overkill or just wise?


----------



## derickwm

I've personally always have bought D5s. Currently running a pair of D5 Strongs @24V and it's been quite wonderful. Seems to me a lot of pumps are just user preference. There really isn't a "best" pump.


----------



## lowfat

You can't go wrong w/ the MCP35x. Just make sure you give its PWM feature a try. It really is awesome.


----------



## Alfaa

What 680 WB should I look into getting? I saw a good one from EK and one from DD. I REALLY like the look of the DD one, but wanted to get your guys opinions before I buy.


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I have a similar build coming up but this is just full ****** mode wow!!
> Question - Did you get the top extended or this is the stock height ?


Stock height; it's a massive case. I highly recommend it for those rads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> My wife approves of this build


Thanks! Mine not so much, but she's tolerant.


----------



## coolmiester

Well the newly installed EVGA SuperNOVA NEX1500 Classified Power Supply finishes this mod off perfectly and i've got to say, i think this is as close to perfection i will ever get.

Yes there were a couple of issues with the original BIOS on the SR-X board which were quickly ironed out but since then i've never looked back and its been rock solid ever since.

Simply put, there is absolutely nothing i would change with this system which is probably a first for me.........oh wait, yeah i'd add another couple of 680's for good measure or swap them out for a couple of 690's but apart from that, this is as good as it gets for me.

Final Spec and a few pictures with the new PSU...

CoolerMaster Cosmos II
EVGA SR-X Motherboard
Intel Xeon E5-2687W s2011 CPU's
EVGA GTX680 Hydro Copper GPU's
EVGA SuperNOVA NEX1500 Classified PSU
Kingston Limited Edition HyperX 48GB Memory
Kingston HyperX SSD's
XSPC EX480
XSPC EX240 Multiport x2
XSPC Raystorm CPU Blocks
XSPC D5 Pumps
Bitspower Fittings
7/16" Masterkleer Hose
Thermochill FC6 Liquid
Phobya 120mm Fans


----------



## derickwm

Man seeing that is making me want to finish up my SR-X...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Good God, and my wife thinks I spend too much money on computers...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Well the newly installed EVGA SuperNOVA NEX1500 Classified Power Supply finishes this mod off perfectly and i've got to say, i think this is as close to perfection i will ever get.
> Yes there were a couple of issues with the original BIOS on the SR-X board which were quickly ironed out but since then i've never looked back and its been rock solid ever since.
> Simply put, there is absolutely nothing i would change with this system which is probably a first for me.........oh wait, yeah i'd add another couple of 680's for good measure or swap them out for a couple of 690's but apart from that, this is as good as it gets for me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Absolutely Stunning Build . The Detail is nothing short a AMAZING.. Hats off to YOU..


----------



## Plutonium10

Has anyone put a 120mm rad in the back of a 650D before? I would like to put one where the rear exhaust fan goes but it will be a close fit and I'm not sure which rad to use. The part of the rad where the fittings screw in will be at the bottom near the PCI expansion slots and there's only 1 and 9/16 inch clearance between the bottom screw holes of the fan mount and the top PCI slot. I know it CAN work with certain rads, because I remember seeing pictures, but things will be very tight.

The reason I want an extra 120 rad is because I decided to put a 7970 in the loop instead of just an i5 3570k as originally planned. I could probably manage a CPU + GPU loop using just the one 240 rad, but it would kind of defeat the temperature/noise benefits of water cooling, right?

I might be better off selling the 650D and buying a case with more rad mounting options.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Has anyone put a 120mm rad in the back of a 650D before? I would like to put one where the rear exhaust fan goes but it will be a close fit and I'm not sure which rad to use.


Alpha cool has a nice 30mm thick or a 45mm thick with multiple port options in the single 120 flavor..
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=32763


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> What 680 WB should I look into getting? I saw a good one from EK and one from DD. I REALLY like the look of the DD one, but wanted to get your guys opinions before I buy.


Check out heat killers blocks too and xspc makes a raystorm style block also that you might like .


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Alpha cool has a nice 30mm thick or a 45mm thick with multiple port options in the single 120 flavor..
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=32763


Ok, I'll consider that one as well.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Drroool (Bgears Blasters pic). Just got my 6


Added 9 more to the stack..


----------



## NostraD

Here are a few of my current water-cooled toys:
Sig Rig - a work in progress - always.


I'm saving for Monsoon fittings...Monsoon 90s should be out this next week.















My GTX470 Empirical Folding Rig. This rig has absolutely no room for cable management! It could use a little more love though. I just hate to stop folding long enough to work on it!


















Old sig rig. Sold to one of my son's friends. This was a great rig - but this was all the pics I could find.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Good God, and my wife thinks I spend too much money on computers...


Exactly what I was thinking...


----------



## simonfredette

my wife says the same thing and I buy hand me downs from a friend.. good money saving tip by the way , build your computer with the same color scheme as someone you know.. they are bound to want to want to change eventually and it saves you a bit of wife grief..


----------



## TMDesign

i l post my setup soon =p


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> my wife says the same thing and I buy hand me downs from a friend.. good money saving tip by the way , build your computer with the same color scheme as someone you know.. they are bound to want to want to change eventually and it saves you a bit of wife grief..


I'm not married so I don't know if this works but I would think that the Wife will more than likely have an interest that costs just as much if not more than a computer over the same span of time. So the next time she gives you grief just say "Hey do I complain about your stuff?"...

Unless of course you DO complain. Then... well... we know how far that's gonna get ya.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

not how it works in a marriage , things women want are more important than computers.. it doesnt matter if you make twice as much $ , you cant spend 1000$ on computer stuff if the crown molding isnt done yet... Or the closet organizer etc.


----------



## Cord78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> not how it works in a marriage , things women want are more important than computers.. it doesnt matter if you make twice as much $ , you cant spend 1000$ on computer stuff if the crown molding isnt done yet... Or the closet organizer etc.


And that concludes today's lesson on the only Universal Law that matters in a marriage.


----------



## Saurian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cord78*
> 
> And that concludes today's lesson on the only Universal Law that matters in a marriage.


Sounds like a pretty unfair law


----------



## simonfredette

duh, of course its unfair , MARRIAGE .. nuff said , they get to decide what is a financially good idea and all the priorities and they are automatically 90% of the time right ..and in return we get to sleep with them


----------



## Saurian

Until/unless you don't


----------



## jagz

Quick Q, how does one clean rads that have dust and whatnot that even a vacuum and a datavac can't get off? Rinse? If so, how so to be safe?


----------



## Saurian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quick Q, how does one clean rads that have dust and whatnot that even a vacuum and a datavac can't get off? Rinse? If so, how so to be safe?


Is it in the radiator grilles?


----------



## johnko1

I need another 240 rad because in 1-2 months I will finally buy a gpu/mobo block.Does the alphacool nexXxos monsta worth the extra money over a ut60?

Currently I have an ex240 on the top just for the cpu

Thanks


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> Is it in the radiator grilles?


I suppose, I can see through the rad fine but it there alot of dust sticking and elongated dustballs sticking out which a vacuum and a blower won't get off.


----------



## Saurian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I suppose, I can see through the rad fine but it there alot of dust sticking and elongated dustballs sticking out which a vacuum and a blower won't get off.


I'd say try using compressed air from a compressor or something if you have one .


----------



## gdesmo

If you use an air compressor please make sure you turn the pressure regulator to it`s lowest setting and start off from further away than you think. Concentrated air could bend your fins or even knock some off if they were really loose, so be careful and don`t clean your skin off with the air because you could give yourself an embolism. (







) It works well just be careful !


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdesmo*
> 
> If you use an air compressor please make sure you turn the pressure regulator to it`s lowest setting and start off from further away than you think. Concentrated air could bend your fins or even knock some off if they were really loose, so be careful and don`t clean your skin off with the air because you could give yourself an embolism. (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) It works well just be careful !


OT: Is that embolism thing true or just a shop teacher myth?


----------



## jokrik

New to watercooling and done my first WC loop


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







the top rad is too thick to do push/pull but the temp has been magnificent
wondering what I can do better with the loop


----------



## PTCB

Nice and clean rig, Jokrik. Wish I had bought the 810.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> New to watercooling and done my first WC loop
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and Clean..Fine Job..


----------



## Egameman

NEED HELP FAST !

I changed tubing yesterday , and flushed my system clean of aquacomputer coolant.. Or so I thought.

I poured in mayhems pastel white, and it was all good. But then it turned pink. I thought I had got all the red out.

I drained a bit, and used the last 200 ml I had to make it better, but its still a bit pink.

How dangerous is this ? Should I drain it, flush all with normal tap water and then with DI water at last and run DI water till I get more mayhems?( I don't have much di water left and you can't buy it at a grocery store, I have to order it )

Can I leave it for 9 days until more coolant arrives from the UK ?

kinda up set here:-S

appreciate all help


----------



## paopaovocal

I'd like to join this club too

here's my pc case with water cooling

*Update for my NZXT PHANTOM from Bangkok,Thailand.*











System specifications

Motherboard : Asrock Z68 Extreme4 Gen3
CPU : Intel Core I5 2500k
Graphic card : Gigabyte Nvidia Geforce GTX 580 ref.
Memory : G-skill sniper 2133 sr 4gb*2
Power supply : XFX Pro serie 750w.
DVD drive : LG
Harddisk : Seagate 500gb sata3
Seagate 250gb sata2

Chassis : NZXT PHANTOM with side panel window mods.

Cooling

Pump : Swiftech MCP 355 with XSPC acrylic top
Resevior : EKWB bay spin resevior acetel
CPU water block : Swiftech apogee HD extreme
GPU water block : Bitspower black freezer
Radiator : Alphacool 360
: Koolance 120
: Blackice xflow 120
Tube : Tygon 1/2 ID 3/4 OD clear
Coolance : Ice dragon
Fitting & accesories : Bitspower matte black compression fitting * 15
: Bitspower matte black 90degree rotary * 7
: Bitspower matte black 45degree rotary * 4
: EKWB male to female *1 male to male *1
: Koolance female to female *1
: Bitspower flow indicator * 1
: Bitspower D-plug set * 1
: Bitspower matte black Q fitting * 1
: Feser stop fitting * 2
: Swiftech 1/2 barb fitting with clamp * 1
Fan : Delta WFB1212HH * 4
: Coolermaster Xtraflo * 1 sickle flow * 3

Chassis accessories : MDPC extension sleeve white&black
: 16 color led set with controller


----------



## JohnnyEars

@ Jokrik, wow that's one clean looking build


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

I hope I can get some help ... I am a complete noob to water cooling and have a couple quick questions ...

1) I am about to do "The Mod" as my first water cooling venture but I am looking to change the tubes on the H50 for white tubes (white and black build rv02 ew) ... How would I go about doing this and is the pump strong enough if I lengthen the tubes a bit and add a res ...

2) I am looking at fully water cooling at a later stage and I am switching to a 7970, are there any blocks that have a clear top part so that you can see the liquid running through the block (looking for a cpu block with the same effect socket 1155)

3) Are there any motherboard blocks for the P67 Evo ?

4) What is the cheapest bay res that you can attach a pump to to save space (preferably in white)



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Here are a few of my current water-cooled toys:
> Sig Rig - a work in progress - always.






What tubing is that ??

All information would be greatly appreciated.
Kind Regards.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Well the newly installed EVGA SuperNOVA NEX1500 Classified Power Supply finishes this mod off perfectly and i've got to say, i think this is as close to perfection i will ever get.
> Yes there were a couple of issues with the original BIOS on the SR-X board which were quickly ironed out but since then i've never looked back and its been rock solid ever since.
> Simply put, there is absolutely nothing i would change with this system which is probably a first for me.........oh wait, yeah i'd add another couple of 680's for good measure or swap them out for a couple of 690's but apart from that, this is as good as it gets for me.
> Final Spec and a few pictures with the new PSU...
> CoolerMaster Cosmos II
> EVGA SR-X Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W s2011 CPU's
> EVGA GTX680 Hydro Copper GPU's
> EVGA SuperNOVA NEX1500 Classified PSU
> Kingston Limited Edition HyperX 48GB Memory
> Kingston HyperX SSD's
> XSPC EX480
> XSPC EX240 Multiport x2
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Blocks
> XSPC D5 Pumps
> Bitspower Fittings
> 7/16" Masterkleer Hose
> Thermochill FC6 Liquid
> Phobya 120mm Fans
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You work for *Intel*? They showing this rig off @ i46 right now


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to join this club too
> here's my pc case with water cooling
> *Update for my NZXT PHANTOM from Bangkok,Thailand.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System specifications
> Motherboard : Asrock Z68 Extreme4 Gen3
> CPU : Intel Core I5 2500k
> Graphic card : Gigabyte Nvidia Geforce GTX 580 ref.
> Memory : G-skill sniper 2133 sr 4gb*2
> Power supply : XFX Pro serie 750w.
> DVD drive : LG
> Harddisk : Seagate 500gb sata3
> Seagate 250gb sata2
> Chassis : NZXT PHANTOM with side panel window mods.
> Cooling
> Pump : Swiftech MCP 355 with XSPC acrylic top
> Resevior : EKWB bay spin resevior acetel
> CPU water block : Swiftech apogee HD extreme
> GPU water block : Bitspower black freezer
> Radiator : Alphacool 360
> : Koolance 120
> : Blackice xflow 120
> Tube : Tygon 1/2 ID 3/4 OD clear
> Coolance : Ice dragon
> Fitting & accesories : Bitspower matte black compression fitting * 15
> : Bitspower matte black 90degree rotary * 7
> : Bitspower matte black 45degree rotary * 4
> : EKWB male to female *1 male to male *1
> : Koolance female to female *1
> : Bitspower flow indicator * 1
> : Bitspower D-plug set * 1
> : Bitspower matte black Q fitting * 1
> : Feser stop fitting * 2
> : Swiftech 1/2 barb fitting with clamp * 1
> Fan : Delta WFB1212HH * 4
> : Coolermaster Xtraflo * 1 sickle flow * 3
> Chassis accessories : MDPC extension sleeve white&black
> : 16 color led set with controller


Where do you get all the W/C parts in Thailand?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> NEED HELP FAST !
> I changed tubing yesterday , and flushed my system clean of aquacomputer coolant.. Or so I thought.
> I poured in mayhems pastel white, and it was all good. But then it turned pink. I thought I had got all the red out.
> I drained a bit, and used the last 200 ml I had to make it better, but its still a bit pink.
> How dangerous is this ? Should I drain it, flush all with normal tap water and then with DI water at last and run DI water till I get more mayhems?( I don't have much di water left and you can't buy it at a grocery store, I have to order it )
> Can I leave it for 9 days until more coolant arrives from the UK ?
> kinda up set here:-S
> appreciate all help


How dangerous is an unknown. Mixing any un known liquids is not a good thing.

As for draining and flushing with tap, then filling with DI, that is fine, I run my setup like that for over 3 weeks before I go some silver. If you can get some silver that would wise.


----------



## Egameman

Thanks Ceadder , my watercooled man. I cant get a silver cool, bit i got s nice silver ring i can wash and put in there . Will obly be for around 9 date until more coolant and tubing arrives..along with a mcp35x


----------



## paopaovocal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Where do you get all the W/C parts in Thailand?


There are many online liquid cooling shop site in THAILAND such as www.overclockzone.com ,this site is the society of overclockers in THAILAND.You can buy everything you need for your watercooled rigs.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That's a tough color transition to make. Of course white will pick up any remnants of whatever color you had in there before. Probably would have to disassemble the blocks to clean them thoroughly enough. I wouldn't worry about leaving it though as long as the color doesn't bother you that much, shouldn't be a problem...


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> my wife says the same thing and I buy hand me downs from a friend.. good money saving tip by the way , build your computer with the same color scheme as someone you know.. they are bound to want to want to change eventually and it saves you a bit of wife grief..
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not married so I don't know if this works but I would think that the Wife will more than likely have an interest that costs just as much if not more than a computer over the same span of time. So the next time she gives you grief just say "Hey do I complain about your stuff?"...
> 
> Unless of course you DO complain. Then... well... we know how far that's gonna get ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

You definitely are not married. You'll learn.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> There are many online liquid cooling shop site in THAILAND such as www.overclockzone.com ,this site is the society of overclockers in THAILAND.You can buy everything you need for your watercooled rigs.


Thanks, bro! Been away for so long, so I don't really know what the W/C scene is like over there.










BTW, I love them Bitspower fittings in your rig.


----------



## paopaovocal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Thanks, bro! Been away for so long, so I don't really know what the W/C scene is like over there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I love them Bitspower fittings in your rig.


Now I'm looking for Asrock OC formula but it still not available in Thailand shop so I continued wating for it.









sorry for my bad in English


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all ...
> What tubing is that ??
> All information would be greatly appreciated.
> Kind Regards.


That is super inexpensive 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Braided Vinyl Tubing from HomeDepot, lol:







($8 for 10ft) http://www.homedepot.com/buy/watts-3-8-in-x-10-ft-vinyl-braided-tubing-sbvkg10.html#.UENpKY1lT1U
It will eventually be replaced - probably with Masterkleer. The tubing is very sturdy and hard to kink, but it clouds up rather quickly - not any worse than some of the other tubing I have used though.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> That is super inexpensive 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Braided Vinyl Tubing from HomeDepot, lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ($8 for 10ft) http://www.homedepot.com/buy/watts-3-8-in-x-10-ft-vinyl-braided-tubing-sbvkg10.html#.UENpKY1lT1U
> It will eventually be replaced - probably with Masterkleer. The tubing is very sturdy and hard to kink, but it clouds up rather quickly - not any worse than some of the other tubing I have used though.


I love the look of it ... I would look great in a white themed system like the 1 I am building ... does the clouding cover up the braiding effect ?? ...

Do you get a black dye ? ... the white over black would look good ... if that makes sense ?


----------



## covert ash

Just for fun, I tried out some Mayhem's UV Green that wermad was kind enough to send to me late last year. (Thank you wermad!







) I gotta say, I'm really digging the green now...


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> You work for *Intel*? They showing this rig off @ i46 right now


No i don't work for Intel but yes, the case was at i46 last weekend with the Coolermaster Hybrid 1300w PSU installed but EVGA were kind enough to have me their SuperNOVA NEX 1500w flown in specially


----------



## B NEGATIVE

damn you windows phone,stop double posting.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> No i don't work for Intel but yes, the case was at i46 last weekend with the Coolermaster Hybrid 1300w PSU installed but EVGA were kind enough to have me their SuperNOVA NEX 1500w flown in specially











Looks so much better in the flesh....pics don't do that rig justice

Great weekend...and we got it all over again in a couple of months!

Note to self,eating is not cheating and Stella is not a food group..


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> I need another 240 rad because in 1-2 months I will finally buy a gpu/mobo block.Does the alphacool nexXxos monsta worth the extra money over a ut60?
> Currently I have an ex240 on the top just for the cpu
> Thanks


BUMP


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> BUMP


id personally just get an RX240 if you want to go bigger , I think between the space a monsta takes and the $ you dont have a huge bang for your buck .. the RX has low fpi and matched with good fans its results are pretty good , night and day against the EX thats for sure .


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I love the look of it ... I would look great in a white themed system like the 1 I am building ... does the clouding cover up the braiding effect ?? ...
> Do you get a black dye ? ... the white over black would look good ... if that makes sense ?


No, the clouding doesn't obscure the braiding. This tubing plasticizes inside (as ALL clear tubing does - some more than others). Plasticizing is a leeching of the softening product from the tubing itself. It coats the ID of the tubing with a white film, thereby making it less transparent or cloudy looking. I have been told that this plasticizing phenomenon will only last so long, then you can remove the tubing and scrub the inside with a soft pipe cleaner to get all the coating out and it shouldn't do it again, (because there is only so much of the plastic softener to leech out). I can't say if this is correct, or how long it would take, because I never have kept the same tubing on long enough to find out! LOL - But the look of this tubing is quite unique and I think a dark/black dye would look great running through it. It will definitely look better once I get my fittings on it. The whole zip-tie motif is getting really old for me.









Guess I can hold off on the masterkleer tubing and see if this tubing continues to leech/plasticize. I've only had it on for about 4 months. Sometime before the 6 month mark I will tear the loop down and clean it. I will re-install this braided tubing and see if it continues to leech. So I guess...if anyone is really curious....check back with me in a few months.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I love the look of it ... I would look great in a white themed system like the 1 I am building ... does the clouding cover up the braiding effect ?? ...
> Do you get a black dye ? ... the white over black would look good ... if that makes sense ?


Just noticed you were in South Africa - otherwise I was going to offer to mail you a short piece I had left over so you could get a closer look at it. I looked a little and didn't see any plumbing companies in your area that carried it. It is available from Amazon.com though if you can order from them. It's a few dollars more than what I paid locally. They have it in 3/8" ID and 1/2" ID.

http://www.amazon.com/LDR-516-B3810-Braided-Tubing/dp/B004CR4OQI

http://www.amazon.com/LDR-516-B1210-Braided-10-Foot/dp/B004CR4OP4/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

Anyway, hope that helps.


----------



## vicyo

Here are some pics from my build:


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Here are some pics from my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Very Nice! Good work!


----------



## reiben05

its been awhile since i posted updates on my WC rig

here's taken in 2010; an upgrade from my TJ09










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













same hardware, just changed the radiator placement












2011, ditched casings for a test bench. only used an old motherboard tray and that was pretty much it , it was a lamp table that i bought from ikea lol


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## derickwm

Vicyo, get some ramsinks on that GPU


----------



## corysti

So while im not watercooled yet im in the process of it and I have a question. Can someone tell me a set of good fans that are great for radiators but doesn't cost 20 bucks a fan.


----------



## george_orm

espc fans are cheap and good, apparently the real nexus silent are not bad either for cheap


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> So while im not watercooled yet im in the process of it and I have a question. Can someone tell me a set of good fans that are great for radiators but doesn't cost 20 bucks a fan.


Yate Loon - they make great fans. Generally come in High, Medium and Low speeds.
They have LEDs and plain black. They are not going to be the quietest fan, but for performance/price they can't be beat IMO.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_1130_49_1051


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> So while im not watercooled yet im in the process of it and I have a question. Can someone tell me a set of good fans that are great for radiators but doesn't cost 20 bucks a fan.


ncix had the gentle typhoons for 2 for 24$ not long ago , maybe even still , check it out at 12$ each for ap-15 you wont find better !!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

38mm ultra kaze 3000rpm on a fan controller.
End of.

they will comprehensively destroy any 25mm fan for peanuts.
They are loud at full beans tho.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 38mm ultra kaze 3000rpm on a fan controller.
> End of.
> they will comprehensively destroy any 25mm fan for peanuts.
> They are loud at full beans tho.


I tried 6 of those in push-pull on my top 360 and 2 yate loon high speeds on the 120 and even on fan controller it sounded like I had my leaf blower inside the house!!! Lol!!! But you can beat the performance with a bat!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> I tried 6 of those in push-pull on my top 360 and 2 yate loon high speeds on the 120 and even on fan controller it sounded like I had my leaf blower inside the house!!! Lol!!! But you can beat the performance with a bat!


I have six of them on 2 HWL GTX 360s....epic rads with fans that the rad designer had a picture of next to his desk....
Plus 2 AP-29s on the top of my bench.....

Airflow is not a problem.

Stopping my dog getting stuck to the side of my bench is a problem.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have six of them on 2 HWL GTX 360s....epic rads with fans that the rad designer had a picture of next to his desk....
> Plus 2 AP-29s on the top of my bench.....
> Airflow is not a problem.
> Stopping my dog getting stuck to the side of my bench is a problem.


Dog,wife,kids and any furniture not bolted down would get sucked in those.


----------



## corysti

Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it!


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> So while im not watercooled yet im in the process of it and I have a question. Can someone tell me a set of good fans that are great for radiators but doesn't cost 20 bucks a fan.


I use Bgears B-Blaster's


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have six of them on 2 HWL GTX 360s....epic rads with fans that the rad designer had a picture of next to his desk....
> Plus 2 AP-29s on the top of my bench.....
> Airflow is not a problem.
> Stopping my dog getting stuck to the side of my bench is a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Dog,wife,kids and any furniture not bolted down would get sucked in those.
Click to expand...

Mothers In-law won't be a problem since they normally come standard with a weight device to hold them in place.









~Ceadder


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Very Nice! Good work!


thanks mate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Vicyo, get some ramsinks on that GPU


no need for that since it is a XFXit 6870, and I plan to change as soon as possible (also, the ram chips just get a little warm with furmark runnig).
Before I blocked the card and added those heatsinks, it was showing a ton of artifacts duo to the overheating (inside my old noisy 690II







). If I overclock it would probably explode


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Just noticed you were in South Africa - otherwise I was going to offer to mail you a short piece I had left over so you could get a closer look at it. I looked a little and didn't see any plumbing companies in your area that carried it. It is available from Amazon.com though if you can order from them. It's a few dollars more than what I paid locally. They have it in 3/8" ID and 1/2" ID.
> http://www.amazon.com/LDR-516-B3810-Braided-Tubing/dp/B004CR4OQI
> http://www.amazon.com/LDR-516-B1210-Braided-10-Foot/dp/B004CR4OP4/ref=pd_cp_hi_0
> Anyway, hope that helps.


Thanks for the information and the links ... ... yeah my country sucks big time on the parts side of things ... even if it is not computer related ... haha ...

I appreciate the information ... due to the fact I can't find water cooling parts in my country I have to import which will cost me just over 5000 bucks ... which is why even if the question is stupid I will ask it first before I blow big money ... hehe


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## bomberjun

Rebuilding..


----------



## steelkevin

I bought second hand water cooling parts yesterday evening (2 EK coolstream 280mm | MCP355 | Plexi Top | EK supreme HF Full Copper | 4 NF P14 FLX and I should be receiving a 250ml cylinder reservoir in the next couple days, he'd forgot it), the rads are quite dusty and have someone else's (house ?) smell, I'll be washing the entire loop before use anyway. How shall I proceed ?

I've got to do this before either today or tomorrow because I'm going back to school on Wednesday.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Rebuilding..


WOW


----------



## chino1974

Guy another question. I was thinking of maybe changing the rads in my set-up for alil thicker rads and one alil bigger. As of now I have a Swiftech MCR320-QP and MCR120-QP rads. They are 12 fpi rads. Either I swap both out for something alil thicker like a 60 if I can push it. If not I still wanna swap out the 120 for a 240. If I was to stick with this model rad and just swap the 120 for a MCR-220-QP rad what type of cfms should I look for in a fan to optimize the type of rads I'm using. I know how much cfms and static pressure factor into how much cooling you can get out of a certain amount of fpi on a rad. Just trying to get a general equation I can use as a rule of thumb.


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Rebuilding..


Dope!
Which tube are you using?


----------



## bomberjun

I used Tygon 3/8 5/8 Clear tubings. Very bendable. Didnt have any kinks in there.


----------



## bomberjun

Connecting the mosfet to NB/SB

Top view.(My ramblock looks yellowish in this picture because its reflecting the color my curtain lol)


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Connecting the mosfet to NB/SB
> 
> Top view.(My ramblock looks yellowish in this picture because its reflecting the color my curtain lol)






I love it do you have a build log anywhere I can sub? I like how you're using all matching EK blocks and also using all the same brand fittings. Really smooth looking build keep the pics coming.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I bought second hand water cooling parts yesterday evening (2 EK coolstream 280mm | MCP355 | Plexi Top | EK supreme HF Full Copper | 4 NF P14 FLX and I should be receiving a 250ml cylinder reservoir in the next couple days, he'd forgot it), the rads are quite dusty and have someone else's (house ?) smell, I'll be washing the entire loop before use anyway. How shall I proceed ?
> 
> I've got to do this before either today or tomorrow because I'm going back to school on Wednesday.


Just run the rads under the facet in the sink.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Just run the rads under the facet in the sink.


That wouldn't risk bending fins and breaking the rad ?
It's not only dust btw, there's some white spider web like thing on the sides.


----------



## Bouf0010

theres not enough pressure from a normal faucet to break and/or bend the fins so you'll be ok


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If you bang the rad into the faucet, yes. Just don't do that...


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> theres not enough pressure from a normal faucet to break and/or bend the fins so you'll be ok


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> If you bang the rad into the faucet, yes. Just don't do that...


What they said.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Are there any motherboard blocks for the P67 Evo motherboard


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Are there any motherboard blocks for the P67 Evo motherboard


youd have to get something like this

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-mosfet-asus-p8p67-acetal-nickel.html


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> That wouldn't risk bending fins and breaking the rad ?
> It's not only dust btw, there's some white spider web like thing on the sides.


I feel your pain. I've been there myself and it's pretty gross to handle.









Besides running it through the faucet, you could make a warm bath with mild dish detergent and let the rads soak for an hour or so (maybe even longer). I used Palmolive with oxy clean and that reduced the smell significantly. Unfortunately for me though, the dust and debris was really caked on there so I couldn't get everything out. Assuming your situation is not nearly as bad as it looking like something was growing on it, the soak may just do the trick.

Good luck with it!


----------



## Vampora

Swapped out my Mountan Mods for a Caselabs and added a bunch of radiators. I should never need a new case again







I need to re-sleave some of my black cables yet but for now it is good enough.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> theres not enough pressure from a normal faucet to break and/or bend the fins so you'll be ok


XD I'll keep that in mind.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> I feel your pain. I've been there myself and it's pretty gross to handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides running it through the faucet, you could make a warm bath with mild dish detergent and let the rads soak for an hour or so (maybe even longer). I used Palmolive with oxy clean and that reduced the smell significantly. Unfortunately for me though, the dust and debris was really caked on there so I couldn't get everything out. Assuming your situation is not nearly as bad as it looking like something was growing on it, the soak may just do the trick.
> Good luck with it!


Actually... it might look like something's growing on it. Let me get some photos.



The other sides of the rads are totally clean.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vampora*
> 
> Swapped out my Mountan Mods for a Caselabs and added a bunch of radiators. I should never need a new case again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to re-sleave some of my black cables yet but for now it is good enough.


Oh good, not this again...

If you use a Razer sticker it's obviously that you really like the company and their products. So how comes you wouldn't know which way their logo goes (it's literally on all their products) ?

The rig's insane btw. That case is HUGE and you've really got a lot of rad (area/surface) for only a CPU/Mobo.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> XD I'll keep that in mind.
> Actually... it might look like something's growing on it. Let me get some photos.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other sides of the rads are totally clean.


It almost looks like someone did some drywall patching and sanding near their computer and it got sucked into the rad. To get in there i would prob use a really soft bristle toothbrush or something similar - paying really close attention to the fins to not damage them.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*


hahah french dr pepper looks so funny


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> It almost looks like someone did some drywall patching and sanding near their computer and it got sucked into the rad. To get in there i would prob use a really soft bristle toothbrush or something similar - paying really close attention to the fins to not damage them.


Well actually he did mention getting coolant on the wall and having to clean it up and paint it with his dad who works in buildings and stuff. So that could actually be it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> hahah french dr pepper looks so funny


I wish. Dad came back from England like a week ago and mum from Scotland last friday.
In fact the Dr Pepper, the Golden Syrup, the Gravy and even the Green packet of Cheddar and onion crisps on my bed are from England and can't be found here. Well you can get Golden Syrup but they sell it on the foreign sections in supermarkets for 5 to 6€...


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vampora*
> 
> Swapped out my Mountan Mods for a Caselabs and added a bunch of radiators. I should never need a new case again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to re-sleave some of my black cables yet but for now it is good enough.






Dear god that thing is big


----------



## xoleras




----------



## bomberjun

Vampora, any plans of going sr-2 / sr-x with that kind of setup?


----------



## steelkevin

Can I let the rads sit in soapy water (water+dish detergent) over night ?


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vampora*
> 
> Swapped out my Mountan Mods for a Caselabs and added a bunch of radiators. I should never need a new case again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to re-sleave some of my black cables yet but for now it is good enough.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy Mother of Pearl! That thing is huge and it's creeping me out! You could hide a body in there...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Holy Mother of Pearl! *That thing is huge and it's creeping me out!* You could hide a body in there...


Funny, but I feel like I've heard that before...


----------



## Egameman

I could get 4 of my arc mini in there..prob 5. and still have room for my dog to chill down in it..


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Can I let the rads sit in soapy water (water+dish detergent) over night ?


Yes.


----------



## aroc91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdesmo*
> 
> don`t clean your skin off with the air because you could give yourself an embolism. (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) It works well just be careful !


I'm having a hard time imagining somebody doing that by accident. You would literally have to hold the nozzle flush up against an open wound in order to do that. Even a couple inches between the nozzle and your skin would completely prevent that.


----------



## simonfredette

the bigger issue we have or had at work is using it when there are metal filings involved , tiny pieces or metal get shot right into the skin , getting actual air in the skin would be hard unless you are going very high pressure with a very small nozzle but if they warn against it its because it has happened . We also have had issues with people loosening fittings on hydraulic lines thinking there is no pressure when there actually is , when 3000 psi of hydraulic fluid starts coming out of a pinhole it can cut right through skin, muscle or just inject hydraulic fluid into the body which is a big no no .


----------



## Vampora

ya I plan on doing something huge like an SR series board but I'm mainly waiting to see if I get laid off again this year..... I should know withing a couple weeks or sooner







Its not just the mobo and processor that are liquid cooled its also one of the video cards, only the 5970 is water cooled at the moment as I bought another 5870 to make them last a little while longer before I have to upgrade. It was originally a new build for the 8150 before I realized that I should have just went with intel this time around. Oh well, once the next gen of stuff comes out I will probably just upgrade again fully and the wife can have my old parts like usual. I'm kind of toying with the idea of waiting for the 8000 series cards to come out before I upgrade again, or I might switch to nvidia....... I really don't want to but I have been very disappointed with AMD this generation.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> the bigger issue we have or had at work is using it when there are metal filings involved , tiny pieces or metal get shot right into the skin , getting actual air in the skin would be hard unless you are going very high pressure with a very small nozzle but if they warn against it its because it has happened . We also have had issues with people loosening fittings on hydraulic lines thinking there is no pressure when there actually is , when 3000 psi of hydraulic fluid starts coming out of a pinhole it can cut right through skin, muscle or just inject hydraulic fluid into the body which is a big no no .


What kind of compressors are you guys using ? I'm asking cause I have worked in auto shops all my life and the max air pressure your supposed to run air tools at is 90-95 psi. And we used the blow bun to clean ourselves off every once in a while no problem. The only thing you had to look out for was getting things in your eyes but that's why you close you eyes. 3000 psi of hydraulic fluid is enough to use as a media blaster to strip paint and rust off of metal. So yeah a line with that much pressure you would never aim at your body. But like I was asking what are you guys doing for work to need 3000 psi in a line ? And those must be metal not rubber hoses cause I dont see a hose holding that much psi ? I know off topic sorry


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vampora*
> 
> Swapped out my Mountan Mods for a Caselabs and added a bunch of radiators. I should never need a new case again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to re-sleave some of my black cables yet but for now it is good enough.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi, I'm looking for some apartment space...does that case have 2 bedrooms?


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> What kind of compressors are you guys using ? I'm asking cause I have worked in auto shops all my life and the max air pressure your supposed to run air tools at is 90-95 psi. And we used the blow bun to clean ourselves off every once in a while no problem. The only thing you had to look out for was getting things in your eyes but that's why you close you eyes. 3000 psi of hydraulic fluid is enough to use as a media blaster to strip paint and rust off of metal. So yeah a line with that much pressure you would never aim at your body. But like I was asking what are you guys doing for work to need 3000 psi in a line ? And those must be metal not rubber hoses cause I dont see a hose holding that much psi ? I know off topic sorry


I work on airplanes , military cargo airplanes , the systems run at 3000 psi for landing gear flight controls, flaps etc . and there are tons of check valves and accumulators in the system so if you dont have it bled properly pressure can be trapped , ive never seen someone get injured from it but its easy to see that it could happen if you dont follow the procedures , like you said off topic , I still wouldnt spray myself with a compressor , never know what you can blow into your skin


----------



## Vampora

If I don't go with an SR series I may just go with one of the ROG boards. So far I have been really impressed with them.


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vampora*
> 
> Swapped out my Mountan Mods for a Caselabs and added a bunch of radiators. I should never need a new case again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to re-sleave some of my black cables yet but for now it is good enough.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nothing justifies the size of that case. seriously.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I work on airplanes , military cargo airplanes , the systems run at 3000 psi for landing gear flight controls, flaps etc . and there are tons of check valves and accumulators in the system so if you dont have it bled properly pressure can be trapped , ive never seen someone get injured from it but its easy to see that it could happen if you dont follow the procedures , like you said off topic , I still wouldnt spray myself with a compressor , never know what you can blow into your skin


Oh ok makes more sense now that you say airplane repair.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vampora*
> 
> Swapped out my Mountan Mods for a Caselabs and added a bunch of radiators. I should never need a new case again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to re-sleave some of my black cables yet but for now it is good enough.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing justifies the size of that case. seriously.
Click to expand...

I dunno, being able to afford it should be justification enough.









This is OCN







, there is no such thing as overkill.









~Ceadder


----------



## InsideJob

You could almost put 2 full builds in that case though, just saying


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah but that's beyond overkill. You could put four systems in that case...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> You could almost put 2 full builds in that case though, just saying


and I would if I had it, lol


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno, being able to afford it should be justification enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , there is no such thing as overkill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> You could almost put 2 full builds in that case though, just saying


You mean like this?


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You mean like this?


Exactly. Stren is awesomely nuts lol


----------



## lowfat

Getting closer but still so much yet to do.


----------



## KaRLiToS

*NICE RIG* lowfat. Simply amazing.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Getting closer but still so much yet to do.


Very nice indeed


----------



## lowfat

Changed the tubing up a bit. Got rid of the 45˚s. I think it looks quite a bit better.


----------



## hammerforged

Love the sleeved tubing look. This will being going in my next build fur sure.

Looks like para cord psu sleeving as well? I spy 6 pin connectors in the gpu power slots ha.


----------



## lowfat

I am using MDPC-X sata sleeve over ⅜” ID ½” OD tubing. It won't stretch over anything larger unfortunately.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I am using MDPC-X sata sleeve over ⅜" ID ½" OD tubing. It won't stretch over anything larger unfortunately.


Yeah that's too bad too cause it would be cool to have something other than their black sleeving to fall back on for us gais that have 3/4".









~Ceadder


----------



## Phirebird

This is all my current system, its obviously still in the works. I've go a FESER ONE MONSTA 360/420 Rad, koolance radiator mount with quick release, ekwb ek supreme hf and evga GTX590 classified with koolance waterblock. The COOLIT BOREAS is cooling that loop along with a alphacool chipset block, and you can see from the pictures I have a lot more to add such as the CORSAIR DOMINATOR TEC Watercooler (it has a leak which is why they didn't mass produce them) and two Aquastream XT pumps, ek spin res dual bay and larger xspc res with a smaller bitspower res (both tubular).

I have to finish the system before I can polish it up and remove all the grit from my table but once it's done I'll post a few images of the frost forming on the loop (the monsta is in testing right now, but it will soon be co-cooling 6 of the boreas 12 tec to make temperatures stabilize below ambient and reduce noise, while also cooling the corsair T30)

BTW the majority of my parts are previously loved, but it makes for a nice look when all the tubing is a different shade, and funnily enough it matches with some of the lighting modes on the thermaltake level 10 gt.


----------



## bomberjun

Okay, so I made a quick run of all my components last night to check if there are any leaks. At the same time, I also tested the capability of my EK DCP 4.0 Pump if it can really handle the restrictions of setup.

As you can see, there are two EK coolstream 360 radiators, one 240 radiator, and a black ice 120 radiator. Not to mention, all my pc parts are on full EK waterblocks.

I was speculating that my single pump will NOT handle this big water madness.

However, I was wrong. Slapping another pump in a serial loop wont be needed anymore. The pump was flawless in terms of pushing water to the loop. I saw a tremendous return of water in my reservoir that even splashed around that table that made me put a cloth. Considering that the pump can do a n 800 LPH, i can say that this single pump can do the job.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phirebird*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all my current system, its obviously still in the works. I've go a FESER ONE MONSTA 360/420 Rad, koolance radiator mount with quick release, ekwb ek supreme hf and evga GTX590 classified with koolance waterblock. The COOLIT BOREAS is cooling that loop along with a alphacool chipset block, and you can see from the pictures I have a lot more to add such as the CORSAIR DOMINATOR TEC Watercooler (it has a leak which is why they didn't mass produce them) and two Aquastream XT pumps, ek spin res dual bay and larger xspc res with a smaller bitspower res (both tubular).
> 
> I have to finish the system before I can polish it up and remove all the grit from my table but once it's done I'll post a few images of the frost forming on the loop (the monsta is in testing right now, but it will soon be co-cooling 6 of the boreas 12 tec to make temperatures stabilize below ambient and reduce noise, while also cooling the corsair T30)
> 
> 
> BTW the majority of my parts are previously loved, but it makes for a nice look when all the tubing is a different shade, and funnily enough it matches with some of the lighting modes on the thermaltake level 10 gt.


Please for the love of all that is holy, do something about the cable management. Even if it's just using twist ties to sort it all out.









~Ceadder


----------



## bomberjun

I do highly agree with Ceaderman. Please do a major overhaul to your system to make look tidy. We would be happy to see such improvements aesthetically.


----------



## prznar1

He is still working on his rig...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phirebird*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all my current system, its obviously still in the works. I've go a FESER ONE MONSTA 360/420 Rad, koolance radiator mount with quick release, ekwb ek supreme hf and evga GTX590 classified with koolance waterblock. The COOLIT BOREAS is cooling that loop along with a alphacool chipset block, and you can see from the pictures I have a lot more to add such as the CORSAIR DOMINATOR TEC Watercooler (it has a leak which is why they didn't mass produce them) and two Aquastream XT pumps, ek spin res dual bay and larger xspc res with a smaller bitspower res (both tubular).
> I have to finish the system before I can polish it up and remove all the grit from my table but once it's done I'll post a few images of the frost forming on the loop (the monsta is in testing right now, but it will soon be co-cooling 6 of the boreas 12 tec to make temperatures stabilize below ambient and reduce noise, while also cooling the corsair T30)
> BTW the majority of my parts are previously loved, but it makes for a nice look when all the tubing is a different shade, and funnily enough it matches with some of the lighting modes on the thermaltake level 10 gt.


I love it,dont change a thing!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> 
> Okay, so I made a quick run of all my components last night to check if there are any leaks. At the same time, I also tested the capability of my EK DCP 4.0 Pump if it can really handle the restrictions of setup.
> As you can see, there are two EK coolstream 360 radiators, one 240 radiator, and a black ice 120 radiator. Not to mention, all my pc parts are on full EK waterblocks.
> I was speculating that my single pump will NOT handle this big water madness.
> However, I was wrong. Slapping another pump in a serial loop wont be needed anymore. The pump was flawless in terms of pushing water to the loop. I saw a tremendous return of water in my reservoir that even splashed around that table that made me put a cloth. Considering that the pump can do a n 800 LPH, i can say that this single pump can do the job.


What you have done is tested everything nice and level,you have no elevation changes to stress the pump...ie no top rad giving positive head pressure.
Those jingways are solid pumps tho.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phirebird*


That block. I want it.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That block. I want it.


I was told that its made of aluminum.... so bad news for your loop...


----------



## derickwm

Oh...

Why would they make a block out of aluminum


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh...
> Why would they make a block out of aluminum


Because Corsair is silly and too used to making closed-loop water cooling systems.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phirebird*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That block. I want it.
Click to expand...

No you don't.

It's an ALUMINIUM cooling chamber. You don't want ANYTHING to do with that block. I know it says Corsair on it but it's only good as a Paperweight imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No you don't.
> 
> It's an ALUMINIUM cooling chamber. You don't want ANYTHING to do with that block. I know it says Corsair on it but it's only good as a Paperweight imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you for repeating....


----------



## Freakn

Repetition is quite normal around here.

People can be slow to refresh pages for what ever reason or just like to double answer for personal assurance.

Meant in a good way most of the time


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Because Corsair is silly and too used to making closed-loop water cooling systems.


That block came before the h series coolers and Corsair dont actually make any liquid coolers,Asetek make pretty much all of them.


----------



## Willhemmens

Update! Excuse the mess. I have custom extensions coming and I'll have some time to give it a proper tidy up.


----------



## steelkevin

Ok, the rad that I left soak in soapy water over night are rinsed and now drying (gosh they were way dirtier than I thought, the water turned brown/black and I had to fill and empty the inside several times and red/pink water just kept coming out the other side). There are a few slightly bent fins I'll find out if there are any leaks later when I get the rest of the parts. Oh and there is what would appear to be melted black metal on one of the rads but I just touched it with a nail and it's not hard so I'm guessing that's the weird white stuff that I mentioned a couple pages back that just came off and with the hot water+soap turned black. I'll have a go at it with my little sister's toothbrush or something.
I cleaned the back of the Supreme HF Full Copper (the part that touches the CPU) until the cotton sticks (I really don't know how you call those, they're normally used to clean ears) stopped picking up brown/yellow and then wiped it with a cotton pad.

I took the pump's plexi top out (luckily my brother still had his xbox ROD fix kit which had the right tool and even Artic Silver Ceramic 2 paste), took the reservoir apart and put them in new hot soapy water with the CPU backplates (won't be using the AMD one but I'd rather it didn't smell like the previous owner's house) and every screw/tool he'd gave me. This wasn't only to neutralize the smell but to get rid of the red remains on the threads and inside the plexi top.

Seeing as the rads had some red coolant remains in it and so did other parts should I open up the Suprem HF and put it in soapy water too ? Do I even need to bother opening it ? Would it mess it up if I did so ?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Update! Excuse the *mess*. I have custom extensions coming and I'll have some time to give it a proper tidy up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mess ?? ... Where ?? ... lol ... ... Very nice system ...

I have a question ... it's a simple 1 ... ... Am I missing anything ? ...

PrimoChill PromiFlex Pro LRT 3/8" ID 1/2" OD (10ft)
Swiftech MicroRes Rev 2
XSPC RayStorm
Phobya DC12-400
Magicool Extreme 180.2
Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings 3/8" ID 1/2" OD x12

I would love to add my GPU into the loop ... but I cannot decide on which universal block to use ...

*:: EDIT ::*

Go easy on me ... I am an extreme noob


----------



## Dr Acula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Update! Excuse the mess. I have custom extensions coming and I'll have some time to give it a proper tidy up.


Love the colours, looks mint!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Seeing as the rads had some red coolant remains in it and so did other parts should I open up the Suprem HF and put it in soapy water too ? Do I even need to bother opening it ? Would it mess it up if I did so?


If you're going to sit the waterblock in water, you probably don't need to open it up but I would advise that you do, you don't know what could be in there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Mess ?? ... Where ?? ... lol ... ... Very nice system ...
> I have a question ... it's a simple 1 ... ... Am I missing anything ? ...
> PrimoChill PromiFlex Pro LRT 3/8" ID 1/2" OD (10ft)
> Swiftech MicroRes Rev 2
> XSPC RayStorm
> Phobya DC12-400
> Magicool Extreme 180.2
> Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings 3/8" ID 1/2" OD x12
> I would love to add my GPU into the loop ... but I cannot decide on which universal block to use ...
> 
> *:: EDIT ::*
> Go easy on me ... I am an extreme noob


Looks good although you might want to rethink your res choice. The Swiftech Micro Res is a good res but they're getting old now. Perhaps a tube res might be a better idea.

Either the EK VGA Supreme HF or the XSPC Raystorms are good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Acula*
> 
> Love the colours, looks mint!


Cheers!


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Looks good although you might want to rethink your res choice. The Swiftech Micro Res is a good res but they're getting old now. Perhaps a tube res might be a better idea..Cheers!


The problem is budget ... The parts I listed will cost me almost R3000 before shipping ... ... I was going to go with a T line to save money but thought a small res would be better than no res

*:: EDIT ::*

Distilled water for loops ... is it standard Distilled water found anywhere or is there specific requirements


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Update! Excuse the mess. I have custom extensions coming and I'll have some time to give it a proper tidy up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Phobya and *shudder* EK do a black bolt kit for your block..

Or take a hacksaw to those threads...


----------



## george_orm

Small res better than no res, u should be good, just because Its old doesn't mean it no good


----------



## _REAPER_

YEah small res is better than no res I would very much have to agree with that statement


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Sorry for all the questions ...









If I got a Swiftech MCW82 universal VGA block ... would the standard plate on my 560Ti hawk be enough to cool the rest of the components when I OC even further than 1000mhz on the core


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Sorry for all the questions ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I got a Swiftech MCW82 universal VGA block ... would the standard plate on my 560Ti hawk be enough to cool the rest of the components when I OC even further than 1000mhz on the core


Well they sell this for a reason so I'd say no.

EDIT: NVM. It does not fit.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> If you're going to sit the waterblock in water, you probably don't need to open it up but I would advise that you do, you don't know what could be in there.


One of the four Supreme HF's screws is messed up. I've tried several different kind of screw drivers and that once won't move... It's not all round worn out though there are still "corners" as there should be but it's too worn out to use the normal one. What shall I do ? How does one get a screw out when the inside is worn out ?

Oh and how can I clean threads ? The plexi Top and reservoir are still a bit red and a tooth brush won't do the job (rest assured I was kidding about using my sisters earlier, I'm using a new one).


----------



## mandrix

More adventures with acrylic with a bay cover and "air dam" angling over the DVD extending to the end of the RX360. The bi-level psu/rad cover is also acrylic. Dual D5's mounted to the HDD cage. Click for bigger pics.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I love it,dont change a thing!
> What you have done is tested everything nice and level,you have no elevation changes to stress the pump...ie no top rad giving positive head pressure.
> Those jingways are solid pumps tho.


This question is towards both Bnegative and bomberjun. I have one of those jingway Pumps in my loop. It's a DP600-P model. Now that your saying they are solid pumps I was wondering. Would I see any difference in my twmps if I changed the pump for a Swiftech MCP355 OR MCP35x ? Or is the pump I have good enough for my loop ? I have a Swiftech MCP320-QP and 120-QP rads, Raystorm CPU block and 2 Raystorm Gpu uni blocks.

Mandrix I love what you did with the rear of the optical drive and also the tool-less clips. I need to hurry up and get more acrylic to finish mine. I'll Thank you for the idea and apologize in advance if I copy your work alil bit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> This question is towards both Bnegative and bomberjun. I have one of those jingway Pumps in my loop. It's a DP600-P model. Now that your saying they are solid pumps I was wondering. Would I see any difference in my twmps if I changed the pump for a Swiftech MCP355 OR MCP35x ? Or is the pump I have good enough for my loop ? I have a Swiftech MCP320-QP and 120-QP rads, Raystorm CPU block and 2 Raystorm Gpu uni blocks.
> Mandrix I love what you did with the rear of the optical drive and also the tool-less clips. I need to hurry up and get more acrylic to finish mine. I'll Thank you for the idea and apologize in advance if I copy your work alil bit.


Maybe a couple of c,nothing to write home about tho.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Changed the tubing up a bit. Got rid of the 45˚s. I think it looks quite a bit better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Update! Excuse the mess. I have custom extensions coming and I'll have some time to give it a proper tidy up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



^^^^my expression^^^^


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phirebird*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all my current system, its obviously still in the works. I've go a FESER ONE MONSTA 360/420 Rad, koolance radiator mount with quick release, ekwb ek supreme hf and evga GTX590 classified with koolance waterblock. The COOLIT BOREAS is cooling that loop along with a alphacool chipset block, and you can see from the pictures I have a lot more to add such as the CORSAIR DOMINATOR TEC Watercooler (it has a leak which is why they didn't mass produce them) and two Aquastream XT pumps, ek spin res dual bay and larger xspc res with a smaller bitspower res (both tubular).
> I have to finish the system before I can polish it up and remove all the grit from my table but once it's done I'll post a few images of the frost forming on the loop (the monsta is in testing right now, but it will soon be co-cooling 6 of the boreas 12 tec to make temperatures stabilize below ambient and reduce noise, while also cooling the corsair T30)
> BTW the majority of my parts are previously loved, but it makes for a nice look when all the tubing is a different shade, and funnily enough it matches with some of the lighting modes on the thermaltake level 10 gt.


Dat rat's nest!


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe a couple of c,nothing to write home about tho.


So my Jingway Tech DP600-P pump will perform about the same as if I threw in a Swiftech MCP355 or MCP35x? Ok good to know thank you very much Bnegative. My system isn't very complicated just res,pump,2rads,cpu block and 2 gpu block which will be 1 gpu block this week for about 6 months. I get pretty good temps all around even after gaming for 1-2 hours on a 95 degree day. At least now that I know that the money that I was going to use to buy a new pump can go into something else.







Thanks again Bnegative Rep+ coming your way









By the way Lowfat I love how your tubing looks with the sleeving like that. And I don't remember what it looked like before but I think it looks really nice the way it is without the 45's


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> One of the four Supreme HF's screws is messed up. I've tried several different kind of screw drivers and that once won't move... It's not all round worn out though there are still "corners" as there should be but it's too worn out to use the normal one. What shall I do ? How does one get a screw out when the inside is worn out ?
> Oh and how can I clean threads ? The plexi Top and reservoir are still a bit red and a tooth brush won't do the job (rest assured I was kidding about using my sisters earlier, I'm using a new one).


There is a bit called an.. easy out... that is designed to remove screws with stripped out screw heads.. also gently heating the area might help..


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> There is a bit called an.. easy out... that is designed to remove screws with stripped out screw heads.. also gently heating the area might help..


Ouch, just looked those up. They're not cheap (especially since I went second hand for budgeting purposes). And they'll completely destroy the screw which I'll need to put back after having cleaned the block :s.
I'm going to different stuff and see what I can do. Thanks.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

how reputable is FrozenCPU ? ... It seems like they are the only company that ships to my country


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> how reputable is FrozenCPU ? ... It seems like they are the only company that ships to my country


very, ive ordered a few things from there with no issues - just avoid UPS when shipping imternationally


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phirebird*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all my current system, its obviously still in the works. I've go a FESER ONE MONSTA 360/420 Rad, koolance radiator mount with quick release, ekwb ek supreme hf and evga GTX590 classified with koolance waterblock. The COOLIT BOREAS is cooling that loop along with a alphacool chipset block, and you can see from the pictures I have a lot more to add such as the CORSAIR DOMINATOR TEC Watercooler (it has a leak which is why they didn't mass produce them) and two Aquastream XT pumps, ek spin res dual bay and larger xspc res with a smaller bitspower res (both tubular).
> I have to finish the system before I can polish it up and remove all the grit from my table but once it's done I'll post a few images of the frost forming on the loop (the monsta is in testing right now, but it will soon be co-cooling 6 of the boreas 12 tec to make temperatures stabilize below ambient and reduce noise, while also cooling the corsair T30)
> BTW the majority of my parts are previously loved, but it makes for a nice look when all the tubing is a different shade, and funnily enough it matches with some of the lighting modes on the thermaltake level 10 gt.


I think there's a nice system under there somewhere...
Btw, ever heard the term OCD? Well, don't worry, it doesn't pertain to you!


----------



## simonfredette

makes you want to buy a big caselabs M8 and just take all his stuff apart and neatly install it in the bigger case , my last case looked about that unorganized except I had less components but I couldnt wait to get my new case and clean it up a bit .


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> very, ive ordered a few things from there with no issues - just avoid UPS when shipping imternationally


Why ?


----------



## Phirebird

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No you don't.
> It's an ALUMINIUM cooling chamber. You don't want ANYTHING to do with that block. I know it says Corsair on it but it's only good as a Paperweight imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


HaHa! I knew something would catch peoples eyes other than the aptly named "Rats nest"









Yeah the block is rubbish, mainly the fittings which were glued together rather poorly, however the TEC management bay and the TEC and cold plate all work fine, so I intend to find myself the holy grail of DHX compatible ram waterblocks and slap it onto the hot side of the tec.

Oh and cable management I will get to when the BOREAS has been retrofitted with a hot side loop. I don't know where to mount the beast either, perhaps I can daisy chain it onto the monsta and remove both of those fans to make it a passive unit that relies mostly on the hot side loop....

It looks like I can turn the stands inwards to fit on a 140/120mm fan mount point too so









In the meantime I have my mates BitFenix Prodigy Mini ITX build to work on further and install a loop in, and its got to be tidy.

SPECS:

AsRock Z77E-ITX
BitFenix Prodigy
Corsair 650W
G.Skill Trident X 2400 MHZ 8GBx2
Intel Core i7 3570K
Gigabyte 7970 OC Windforce
Lite On 12x BlueRay burner
2x Kingston SV200S3+ 60GB SSD in RAID 0

It absolutely flies when stock however all these components are performance oriented so he decided to update to watercooling 2 days after I built it for him.

I have a few parts laying about, enough for the cpu, chipset pump and radiator however I'll need a mosfet block and a GPU block, and the baby I got my eye on is the Watercool HeatKiller GPU-X^3 79X0 NI-BI Edition for maximum points







.

The challenge is to keep the entire loop isolated from the outside of the case, no peaking components of the loop, which limits any crazy external radiator and/or reservoir with pipes jutting out.

A few weeks from now this forum is going to have another build


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> how reputable is FrozenCPU ? ... It seems like they are the only company that ships to my country


5 different orders in last two months..never a problem.. that was within US


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please use spoilers when quoting multiple pics.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

I really must apologize for so many questions today ... but here are 2 more ...

Would an Alphacool Monsta 120mm Rad fit in the 120mm exhaust on the Raven 02-E ...

and

Is this pump (Phobya DC12-400) strong enough for a system using a 120mm Monsta and a 180.2 rad with 2 blocks (cpu and gpu)


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I think there's a nice system under there somewhere...
> Btw, ever heard the term OCD? Well, don't worry, it doesn't pertain to you!


Hahaha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Is this pump (Phobya DC12-400) strong enough for a system using a 120mm Monsta and a 180.2 rad with 2 blocks (cpu and gpu)


Absolutely.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> So my Jingway Tech DP600-P pump will perform about the same as if I threw in a Swiftech MCP355 or MCP35x? Ok good to know thank you very much Bnegative. My system isn't very complicated just res,pump,2rads,cpu block and 2 gpu block which will be 1 gpu block this week for about 6 months. I get pretty good temps all around even after gaming for 1-2 hours on a 95 degree day. At least now that I know that the money that I was going to use to buy a new pump can go into something else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


I have the OCZ variant of the Jingway running in my secondary system for over 2 years with zero problems. It has a Rasa cpu block, 2 EK 4890 blocks and a 360 and 240 Swiftech radiators. I have ran it with a spare 355 and noticed no change in temps so you'll be fine


----------



## Emissary of Pain

This is technically a repost but I changed parts ...

so ... Am I missing anything ...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Why ?


Although it might be cheaper you'll get hit with broker fees on top of customs which will cost you wayyyy more - just to give you an idea, i got charged $55 in broker fees on a $150 order.


----------



## motokill36

Add me final Loop Layout



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Why ?
> 
> 
> 
> Although it might be cheaper you'll get hit with broker fees on top of customs which will cost you wayyyy more - just to give you an idea, i got charged $55 in broker fees on a $150 order.
Click to expand...

Wow ... That sucks ... I am being charged just over $114 for shipping with USPS

I hope I won't have to use fedex cause then I will be charged $350 just for shipping

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Wow ... That sucks ... I am being charged just over $114 for shipping with USPS
> I hope I won't have to use fedex cause then I will be charged $350 just for shipping
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


USPS is the way to go - the only fee you might see are your countries custom taxes, unless frozencpu has already incorporated them into the shipping fee


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> This is technically a repost but I changed parts ...
> so ... Am I missing anything ...


You will also need barbed or compression fittings.Also you could save some money by buying rx120 instead of mosta 120,although the monsta must me better(ut60 is slightly better than rx so monsta will have better temps)...


----------



## Emissary of Pain

I just realized I ordered 6 compression fittings 2 little ... Luckily I haven't placed the order yet ...

Would I need aditional barbs even with 12 compression fittings (2 per component: cpu block, gpu block, 180.2, 120mm, res, pump)

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## repo_man

Long time no post, here's the current stuff crammed into an Antec200. MCR220, MCP350 with res-top, tygon tubing, MCW80 uni GPU block, (OLLLLD) apogee GT cpu block. Excuse my wiring, I was rushing to get it in this case in an afternoon...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I just realized I ordered 6 compression fittings 2 little ... Luckily I haven't placed the order yet ...
> Would I need aditional barbs even with 12 compression fittings (2 per component: cpu block, gpu block, 180.2, 120mm, res, pump)
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


It's been my personal experience that it's always good to have a few extra barbs and/or compression fittings. You never know when you may want to add something to your loop or have a problem with one of the fittings. Especially with the shipping costs you are having to endure - I would make sure I ordered a few extra now, rather than pay another $100 for $10-20 worth of parts. Just my opinion


----------



## steelkevin

One of my Supreme HF's screws is stripped so I can't open it to clean it and I don't seem to have any tool capable of cutting a notch in it's head and using a flat screw driver to take it out and put it back in. So I'm just going to let it sit in soapy water over night as I did with the rads (which I also cleaned after with a toothbrush). It's a full copper block wouldn't dish detergent do it any harm ?


----------



## Alfaa

Hey, look! Lifehacker is doin' it too









LINK


----------



## u3b3rg33k

re:motokill36; OMG rig with soft copper tubing!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> 
> ^^^^my expression^^^^


You and me both. Sleeved tubing ?!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> One of my Supreme HF's screws is ****ed so I can't open it to clean it and I don't seem to have any tool capable of cutting a notch in it's head and using a flat screw driver to take it out and put it back in. So I'm just going to let it sit in soapy water over night as I did with the rads (which I also cleaned after with a toothbrush). It's a full copper block wouldn't dish detergent do it any harm ?


put the block on a hard surface and secure it so it doesnt move.. find your best screwdriver and lightly tap with hammer while turning if this is possible for you..


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Phobya and *shudder* EK do a black bolt kit for your block..
> Or take a hacksaw to those threads...


I have the proper kit, it's just I couldn't be bothered to remove the mounting kit for my phase unit as it's likely I'll be using it again shortly.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> put the block on a hard surface and secure it so it doesnt move.. find your best screwdriver and lightly tap with hammer while turning if this is possible for you..


Thank you but sorry I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean.
What kind of screwdriver a flat one ?
Shall I tap with the hammer on the screwdriver (which would then be bigger than the screw's head's hole) to make a notch so I can use that very same screwdriver to unscrew the screw ?
Or do you mean like somehow doing the same while banging the hammer on the screwdriver ?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Thank you but sorry I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean.
> What kind of screwdriver a flat one ?
> Shall I tap with the hammer on the screwdriver (which would then be bigger than the screw's head's hole) to make a notch so I can use that very same screwdriver to unscrew the screw ?
> Or do you mean like somehow doing the same while banging the hammer on the screwdriver ?


Find a screwdriver that best matches the damaged screw head and while applying pressure and turning use a small hammer to tap at the same time...


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Find a screwdriver that best matches the damaged screw head and while applying pressure and turning use a small hammer to tap at the same time...


So the same screw driver as for the 3other screws. I could try what you're suggesting but right now I can't see how it'd change anything seeing as the problem is the screwdriver's loose inside the head and just turns on itself (the screwdriver, the actual screw doesn't move at all). Using a bigger version of the screwdriver used on the other 3 screws would sound somewhat more logical.

If I understand well I'd be try to "stretch" the hole so it fits a thicker screwdriver, right ?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> So the same screw driver as for the 3other screws. I could try what you're suggesting but right now I can't see how it'd change anything seeing as the problem is the screwdriver's loose inside the head and just turns on itself (the screwdriver, the actual screw doesn't move at all). Using a bigger version of the screwdriver used on the other 3 screws would sound somewhat more logical.
> If I understand well I'd be try to "stretch" the hole so it fits a thicker screwdriver, right ?


Yes. Use a screwdriver that will Bite on the screw the best.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yes. Use a screwdriver that will Bite on the screw the best.


Ok, going down to the basement.

Cheers.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motokill36*
> 
> Add me final Loop Layout
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Fuganater

More sleeved tubing...


----------



## derickwm

Mayhems just posted this on FB...










Do want.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> This is technically a repost but I changed parts ...
> so ... Am I missing anything ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


don't forget fans and ramsinks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motokill36*
> 
> Add me final Loop Layout
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


L-L-L-Love the copper!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mayhems just posted this on FB...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do want.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Well i will be using the AP181's for the 180.2 ... For the Monsta (provided it will fit in the exhaust spot on a rv02-e) I was thinking of using a Corsair SP120 ... So I don't need fans ...

I wouod love to bet a block for my ram but I'm already looking at a cost of about 4600 excluding the fan and angled fittings (and spare compression fittings) ... So probably 5000 on the dot for what i mentioned ... ... May get rid of the Alphacool Monsta to save money

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## Fonne

Highflow.nl:
Quote:


> We received a very nice item from a partner, which will be available in our shop soon, in a special limited HighFlow edition!




TFC Feser Admiral 360 ?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mayhems just posted this on FB...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do want.


Get me some too, derick! Only place I'd be able to see it is the res though since I'm not using clear tubing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Highflow.nl:
> 
> TFC Feser Admiral 360 ?


link?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mayhems just posted this on FB...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do want.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mayhems just posted this on FB...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do want.


With the new Gigabyte UP7, so much win!


----------



## derickwm

My next WC'ing project. Trying to track down a southbridge block... In talks with DD right now.









More pics in build log.

Ignore the HSFs...they came with it. Only a temp solution.


----------



## protzman

quick, best clear tubing: not primo hill!


----------



## derickwm

I believe durelene is one of the better ones these days.


----------



## PCModderMike

Clearflex??
(Question marks because personally I don't have any experience with it, but going off of what's been discussed in here, Clearflex and Durelene)


----------



## superericla

Clearflex, masterkleer, or durelene.


----------



## PCModderMike

I'm using Primochill


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I'm using Primochill


haven even booted up yet and my primochill is almost completely opaque... junk imo. i tested my wc equipment 3 times, 2 with distilled and one with ek coolant. no time was running more than 20 min.

on another note. Durelen, wheres the best place to buy? sidewinders?
and DANG i just checked their website after google searching durelen, 45 cents per foot, im in heaven







!


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> link?


Highflow.nl on Facebook


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No you don't.
> 
> It's an ALUMINIUM cooling chamber. You don't want ANYTHING to do with that block. I know it says Corsair on it but it's only good as a Paperweight imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for repeating....
Click to expand...

Don't see the issue. I posted within minutes. Apologies for my having to take a dump in the middle of my replying. Had I not had to I would have posted before. Next time I'll just cancel the reply so I don't offend you.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motokill36*
> 
> Add me final Loop Layout
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


That is simply awesome.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> One of my Supreme HF's screws is stripped so I can't open it to clean it and I don't seem to have any tool capable of cutting a notch in it's head and using a flat screw driver to take it out and put it back in. So I'm just going to let it sit in soapy water over night as I did with the rads (which I also cleaned after with a toothbrush). It's a full copper block wouldn't dish detergent do it any harm ?


Just use the right size Driver... if you can't find one use a piece of masking on the driver tip to minimize chewing the opening of the screw any further. If that's too thick try a piece of tinfoil. Apologies if this is late. Also if you don't have the proper size hex driver I've always found that a Torx driver can do in a pinch, just don't torque on it so it doesn't round out the corners. This is where that piece of foil can really come in handy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mayhems just posted this on FB...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do want.


Are we looking at Dye? Sorry if I'm being a little obtuse here cause it is Mayhems but I'm looking at the container. Are we looking at a mixer or dye?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Highflow.nl:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> We received a very nice item from a partner, which will be available in our shop soon, in a special limited HighFlow edition!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TFC Feser Admiral 360 ?
Click to expand...

High Flow what? Tubing, block? Fittings?









~Ceadder


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> *link*


Note: this is not mine. but the watercooled custom rig is awesome!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> re:motokill36; OMG rig with soft copper tubing!
> You and me both. Sleeved tubing ?!


HA HA! thanks for crack me up!!!! you're cool!


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> High Flow what? Tubing, block? Fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Highflow is the company's name


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> haven even booted up yet and my primochill is almost completely opaque... junk imo. i tested my wc equipment 3 times, 2 with distilled and one with ek coolant. no time was running more than 20 min.
> on another note. Durelen, wheres the best place to buy? sidewinders?
> and DANG i just checked their website after google searching durelen, 45 cents per foot, im in heaven
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Whoa, not even used it yet and it's already clouded?? Guess it really is hit or miss with Primochill. My latest loop has been up and running for 8-9 weeks now, and still looks nice and blue.











Wanted to try something else next time though just because it's so much cheaper.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

M-Power Cosmos II eh? Love it!


----------



## Entropia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> haven even booted up yet and my primochill is almost completely opaque... junk imo. i tested my wc equipment 3 times, 2 with distilled and one with ek coolant. no time was running more than 20 min.


Mine was exactly the same with primochill blue, however I don't know about anyone else but mine sure as hell looked a lot better once it got a bit clouded. I've only been using distilled water rather than a dye so they looked a bit average before they clouded.


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Whoa, not even used it yet and it's already clouded?? Guess it really is hit or miss with Primochill. My latest loop has been up and running for 8-9 weeks now, and still looks nice and blue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to try something else next time though just because it's so much cheaper.






Are the clouding issues with the Prinochill tubing only with their clear tubing? I ask because I have used alot of different colors of Primochill tubing except clear and haven't had an issue with any of them yet. My latest build has been up and running for a few months now and all I'm using is distilled only and the water in my res is as clear as the day I filled it. I was thinking of changing out the white tubing I'm using now for clear tubing. That's the main reason I'm asking cause if it is just an issue with the clear primochill I'll either just keep the white or order a different brand of clear.


----------



## Entropia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Are the clouding issues with the Prinochill tubing only with their clear tubing? I ask because I have used alot of different colors of Primochill tubing except clear and haven't had an issue with any of them yet. My latest build has been up and running for a few months now and all I'm using is distilled only and the water in my res is as clear as the day I filled it. I was thinking of changing out the white tubing I'm using now for clear tubing. That's the main reason I'm asking cause if it is just an issue with the clear primochill I'll either just keep the white or order a different brand of clear.


I've got black and UV clear blue primochill. Both seem to get a thin layer of white residue on the inside of the tubing. This has had no affect on the water colour for me and hasn't left any deposits in the block either. But then I've only run it for a couple of days straight.

It's quite possible your white tubing is doing the same thing except there would be no way to tell with white tubing









I'm not sure how it would look with clear tubing though, for coloured tubing having a layer of white inside the tube almost enhances the colour to me but it may just look bad with plain clear.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Entropia*
> 
> I've got black and UV clear blue primochill. Both seem to get a thin layer of white residue on the inside of the tubing. This has had no affect on the water colour for me and hasn't left any deposits in the block either. But then I've only run it for a couple of days straight.
> It's quite possible your white tubing is doing the same thing except there would be no way to tell with white tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how it would look with clear tubing though, for coloured tubing having a layer of white inside the tube almost enhances the colour to me but it may just look bad with plain clear.


Oh ok I thought it was making the water cloudy. That's why I was saying when I look through my res that's a clear cyndrilical reservoir the water is nice and clear. Then I guess it would be a safe bet to steer clear from their clear tubing. I guess I'll order a different brand when I'm ready to change the white.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Oh ok I thought it was making the water cloudy. That's why I was saying when I look through my res that's a clear cyndrilical reservoir the water is nice and clear. Then I guess it would be a safe bet to steer clear from their clear tubing. I guess I'll order a different brand when I'm ready to change the white.


I hear that Durelene does not cloud no matter what coolant/solution you are using. Also Tygon just came out with a new tubing that does not have plasticiser in it so it should not cloud.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Oh ok I thought it was making the water cloudy. That's why I was saying when I look through my res that's a clear cyndrilical reservoir the water is nice and clear. Then I guess it would be a safe bet to steer clear from their clear tubing. I guess I'll order a different brand when I'm ready to change the white.


Just go over to this topic in the forum, you will get all your answers there:http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/1340#post_18083191

With regards to your clear reservoir, it has been often noted that the reservoir may remain crystal clear, whilst within your tubing is a whole different ball game-reservoir clarity imho is not a good way to ascertain the conditions of your tubes,.

Visual and or, 'Pinch test' if they are clear tubes to see if there are any deposits forming

-if your tubing is solid then i'm afraid, you'll have to drain the system and check the hard way.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I hear that Durelene does not cloud no matter what coolant/solution you are using. Also Tygon just came out with a new tubing that does not have plasticiser in it so it should not cloud.


The 'Plasticizer free' Tygon tubing has been reported as having clouding issues as well-so far only Durelene seems to be reliable.

At the risk of offending some posters (idc really







) just go over to http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/1340#post_18083191

and take some time to read about whats what (apologies to those who already do that-you know who you are







), all your queries will be answered, instead of relying on 'he said that......' and 'i heard that......'

Friendly advice and a word to the wise.........


----------



## mironccr345

I've been using Primochill on all my WC builds and haven't came a cross any "Plasticizer" Guess it's a hit or miss?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I've been using Primochill on all my WC builds and haven't came a cross any "Plasticizer" Guess it's a hit or miss?


You sir, i envy, because i used to really like Primochill tubing until all hell broke loose.

(I like the avatar-Wes Laine country, im showing my age i know)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Added some white strips yesterday


----------



## Hanoverfist

Primochill Black ..example .. 14 days ..Distilled and 1 kill coil


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Primochill Black ..example .. 14 days ..Distilled and 1 kill coil


I saw that same residue in the UV Blue Primochill I was using before I switched to the clear.

EDIT: Distilled and silver kill coil was used.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Primochill Black ..example .. 14 days ..Distilled and 1 kill coil
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ugh, is that the "Primochill Pro LRT" ?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Ugh, is that the "Primochill Pro LRT" ?


YEP.. Frustrating


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw that same residue in the UV Blue Primochill I was using before I switched to the clear.
> EDIT: Distilled and silver kill coil was used.


I just Hope they fix it soon.. From what i have read they used to have a really good product until something changed in their process


----------



## Ceadderman

Gonna be tearing into the loop when I go to lapp the CPU, but I'm not running a coil and never have. The last time I checked the interior was green from the virgin copper block but no powdery residue. We'll see. I think that this problem may just simply be due to the tubing containing anti-microbial components and having a negative reaction with whatever anti-microbial that people are using. Mine is straight Distilled and nothing else. That's not to suggest that's the only issue but nearly every person that is having a problem has some sort of additive in their loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna be tearing into the loop when I go to lapp the CPU, but I'm not running a coil and never have. The last time I checked the interior was green from the virgin copper block but no powdery residue. We'll see. I think that this problem may just simply be due to the tubing containing anti-microbial components and having a negative reaction with whatever anti-microbial that people are using. Mine is straight Distilled and nothing else. That's not to suggest that's the only issue but nearly every person that is having a problem has some sort of additive in their loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have read you stopped using a coil.. so i am testing my other loop with just straight distilled and the same tubing batch.. another week before checking in on that tubing..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Professional Tube Cleaning Kit.. lol


----------



## hammerforged

Sorry to get off topic with tubbing again but Im using Solid Black Primochill Pro LRT with EK's pre mix coolant. Is this something I should worry about harming my system? Just trying to figure out if I should replace the tubing before it damages my water blocks or other parts. Thanks


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Sorry to get off topic with tubbing again but Im using Solid Black Primochill Pro LRT with EK's pre mix coolant. Is this something I should worry about harming my system? Just trying to figure out if I should replace the tubing before it damages my water blocks or other parts. Thanks


When i inspected my block at the same time as the tubing there wasnt any sign of it in there.. if that helps. I am not using a pre mix though so might be worth having a peek inside yours to see. It also coated me Res at the Water line..


----------



## hammerforged

Thanks. Damn I hope this crap isnt all over my new wc componets. Is this a big enough issue that I need to drain and check? Looks like my only other choice is Danger Den black tubing or XSPC black. Whats everyone switching to?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Not looking forward to tearing my loop down but I really want to change to a different red color. Will be replacing all of my tubing with some more Durelene...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Thanks. Damn I hope this crap isnt all over my new wc componets. Is this a big enough issue that I need to drain and check? Looks like my only other choice is Danger Den black tubing or XSPC black. Whats everyone switching to?


I have read some guys are switching over to Feser for Colored tubing product but have seen no results. And of course the hot ticket is Durelene and Maybe some Mayhems for Color.. His.. Oil Black ..if thats what your after..


----------



## nyk20z3

I have it in my UV Green Primochill tubing for 2 months but i have not noticed any negative affects so i will continue to use it as is.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Gonna try adding some Mayhems red dye to my coolant before tearing it down. Can't hurt and maybe that will give me a better red coloring...


----------



## hammerforged

Worth a shot. You still planning on doing a final build video? I liked the other ones.

Im wondering if I can fill up some tubing with my pre mix and cap it at the ends and see how it does before I tear into my loop.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Still editing them unfortunately. I filmed EVERYTHING so cutting it down is taking forever especially with my work schedule. The written log is almost done...


----------



## Ceadderman

If Duralene came in colors, I would seriously entertain the thought of changing it. Can't beat the price right now. But that price isn't going to stay that low as demand increases. Hell, I'm shocked that the vendors aren't jacking up the price now.









Oh and to clear up a minor discrepancy... I've NEVER run an additive in my loop. The coolant is crystal clear and the opaque tubing that I run doesn't require an anti-microbial. I like a fairly dark room so the lack of sunlight is a definite plus in this regard. No additives not even Killcoil. Was considering it but I already have copper brass and nickel in my loop. I thought better of adding another metal.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

Special Limited Edition


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Special Limited Edition
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey there Bundy







Thanks for sharing those photos on Facebook, not these^, but _"those"_ photos


----------



## kkorky

Question to all out there: what would you say is the most commonly used size when it comes to tubing & fittings?
This is not a wind up, i am really interested in finding out.
Thanks in advance for all your replies


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Question to all out there: what would you say is the most commonly used measurement when it comes to tubing & fittings?
> This is not a wind up, i am really interested in finding out.
> Thanks in advance for all your replies


In the US it would be inches.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> In the US it would be inches.


Oops my bad, i should not have said measurement, but instead i should have said SIZE. Ok what little street cred i had is now gone out of the window.
Your reply nevertheless is appreciated


----------



## NostraD

Ewwwww that's a good question, I'd be interested to see some actual sales figures from retailers. I would initially guess 1/2" ID - but maybe it's 3/8? Then if it was 3/8 ID - I would wonder 1/2" or 5/8" OD?


----------



## sortableturnip

That would be my guess as well 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I hear that Durelene does not cloud no matter what coolant/solution you are using. Also Tygon just came out with a new tubing that does not have plasticiser in it so it should not cloud.
> 
> 
> 
> The 'Plasticizer free' Tygon tubing has been reported as having clouding issues as well-so far only Durelene seems to be reliable.
> 
> At the risk of offending some posters (idc really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) just go over to http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/1340#post_18083191
> 
> and take some time to read about whats what (apologies to those who already do that-you know who you are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), all your queries will be answered, instead of relying on 'he said that......' and 'i heard that......'
> 
> Friendly advice and a word to the wise.........
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I'm just waiting for some cash to replace all my tubing in my rigs with Durelene. I didn't know about the new Tygon problems. Just heard about it in The Mod Zoo podcast.


----------



## Fonne

*EK-FC7850*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/257/19/EK-FC7850-water-block-released/


----------



## Ceadderman

^^








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Ewwwww that's a good question, I'd be interested to see some actual sales figures from retailers. I would initially guess 1/2" ID - but maybe it's 3/8? Then if it was 3/8 ID - I would wonder 1/2" or 5/8" OD?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> That would be my guess as well 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD


You guys forgot 3/4" OD tubing.

I'd think that 1/2"x 3/4" is more prevalent due to the aesthetics and the availability of parts and tubing that every manufacturer makes and/or vendors carry.









I almost went with 1/2" x 5/8" but the tubing I wanted at the time was out of stock in that sizing.









~Ceadder


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EK-FC7850*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/257/19/EK-FC7850-water-block-released/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know a lot of people think the new EK block design is god awful ugly, and I'm right there with them, but I think it might look a little better if the GPU blocks weren't rectangular. Say, if they were cut to the same shape as the copper base like they were in the past, I think they would look a lot better


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I know a lot of people think the new EK block design is god awful ugly, and I'm right there with them, but I think it might look a little better if the GPU blocks weren't rectangular. Say, if they were cut to the same shape as the copper base like they were in the past, I think they would look a lot better


I love that look!

But I also think the ones like DD's 680 block are really nice looking, too...


----------



## Ceadderman

The only thing that looks good on those block are the silver medallions embedded in them imho. Had they gone plain with the medallion they would still look classy and unassuming. That was the thing (besides performance) that drew me to buy EK products. Now they aren't classy looking and their performance is middle of the pack; if that. The Supremacy is improperly named. Its cooling ranks behind both v1 and v2 High Flow Supreme. That is NOT good. The only reason they are selling imho, is cause people have identified with the brand.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Ive started a poll-please refer to that instead-thanks









Poll:http://www.overclock.net/t/1302668/most-commonly-used-fittings-tubing-size-is


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> I love that look!
> But I also think the ones like DD's 680 block are really nice looking, too...


I think Aquacomputer and Heatkiller have the best looking GPU blocks. If I ever upgrade my systems I'll probably end up with all HK blocks


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The Supremacy is improperly named. Its cooling ranks behind both v1 and v2 High Flow Supreme. That is NOT good. The only reason they are selling imho, is cause people have identified with the brand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh yeah, you sure about it?







Many reviews would beg to differ. It's okay not to like the new design, but it's not okay to (intentionally?) spread false information.


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













Switched my mcp355 witha new d5, a BP top, and a BP z 80 res.

Next plan is a 240 rad, the 150 kit, black sparkle fittings, Durelene tubing and an Arc Midi instead


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think Aquacomputer and Heatkiller have the best looking GPU blocks. If I ever upgrade my systems I'll probably end up with all HK blocks


I <3 <3 <3 <3 Heatkiller's blocks. I plan to get one for my 680 when I have the money.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The Supremacy is improperly named. Its cooling ranks behind both v1 and v2 High Flow Supreme. That is NOT good. The only reason they are selling imho, is cause people have identified with the brand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, you sure about it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many reviews would beg to differ. It's okay not to like the new design, but it's not okay to (intentionally?) spread false information.
Click to expand...

Link the reviews. It was reviewed HERE on OCN and if I remember correctly it was not as good as its predecessors. I'm going by information that was here.

Just like 80% of those polled across the net don't like the looks of these blocks.

If that's misinformation then well I don't know what to say.

Eddy doesn't want anyone experienced reviewing that block. He emailed Tweak Town who only put it up against a handful of blocks. In fact, he was so incensed that Sidewinder(Jab-Tech maybe?) had the audacity to make such comparisons that he threatened(did?) to hit them with a Liable suit.

So you go ahead and keep guzzling the Kool-Aid. I have no axe to grind where EK is concerned. The bulk of my Loop(FC, CPU, Pump Top and Fittings) are all EK.

Two or 3 reviews are culled through Google Search. If you wish to refute me at least have something a little more substantial and from the accepted Review Sites. But I doubt that will ever happen because Eddy isn't asking them to review it. Two or 3 obscure reviews don't count as "Many" btw.









~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think Aquacomputer and Heatkiller have the best looking GPU blocks. If I ever upgrade my systems I'll probably end up with all HK blocks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> I <3 <3 <3 <3 Heatkiller's blocks. I plan to get one for my 680 when I have the money.


so do i


----------



## Ceadderman

So bummed. I need to get my unused GPU under water soon.









Hopefully before I get stuck having to buy EK CSQ Universal Block. They are starting to flood the market with them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Link the reviews. It was reviewed HERE on OCN and if I remember correctly it was not as good as its predecessors. I'm going by information that was here.
> Just like 80% of those polled across the net don't like the looks of these blocks.
> If that's misinformation then well I don't know what to say.
> Eddy doesn't want anyone experienced reviewing that block. He emailed Tweak Town who only put it up against a handful of blocks. In fact, he was so incensed that Sidewinder(Jab-Tech maybe?) had the audacity to make such comparisons that he threatened(did?) to hit them with a Liable suit.
> So you go ahead and keep guzzling the Kool-Aid. I have no axe to grind where EK is concerned. The bulk of my Loop(FC, CPU, Pump Top and Fittings) are all EK.
> Two or 3 reviews are culled through Google Search. If you wish to refute me at least have something a little more substantial and from the accepted Review Sites. But I doubt that will ever happen because Eddy isn't asking them to review it. Two or 3 obscure reviews don't count as "Many" btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So bummed. I need to get my unused GPU under water soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully before I get stuck having to buy EK CSQ Universal Block. They are starting to flood the market with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


watch out ceadder - CSQ is coming for ya now!


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> so do i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snip
> snip


Not bad, but I'm still fond of my 7970 block.










And EK Blocks


----------



## nleksan

Gotta say, the Heatkiller blocks are works of art, nothing less. Seriously, if there was a water cooling museum, they would be the main attraction. I love mine


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Link the reviews. It was reviewed HERE on OCN and if I remember correctly it was not as good as its predecessors. I'm going by information that was here.
> Just like 80% of those polled across the net don't like the looks of these blocks.
> If that's misinformation then well I don't know what to say.
> Eddy doesn't want anyone experienced reviewing that block. He emailed Tweak Town who only put it up against a handful of blocks. In fact, he was so incensed that Sidewinder(Jab-Tech maybe?) had the audacity to make such comparisons that he threatened(did?) to hit them with a Liable suit.
> So you go ahead and keep guzzling the Kool-Aid. I have no axe to grind where EK is concerned. The bulk of my Loop(FC, CPU, Pump Top and Fittings) are all EK.
> Two or 3 reviews are culled through Google Search. If you wish to refute me at least have something a little more substantial and from the accepted Review Sites. But I doubt that will ever happen because Eddy isn't asking them to review it. Two or 3 obscure reviews don't count as "Many" btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So bummed. I need to get my unused GPU under water soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully before I get stuck having to buy EK CSQ Universal Block. They are starting to flood the market with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> watch out ceadder - CSQ is coming for ya now!
Click to expand...

My .12ga with .00 buck would make mincemeat of them.









I want to get Universal Bridge in Copper/Acrylic and mate them with Swiftech 6870/50 Heatsinks. Would look rather sharp when they're lit up with Red LEDs'.

So hopefully they'll be around just a bit longer so I can sell stuff and get them. Cause I doubt anyone is going to be selling theirs with the CSQ blocks to fall back on.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> so do i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snip
> snip
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad, but I'm still fond of my 7970 block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And EK Blocks
Click to expand...

See now this block works. It's classy and understated and I could have made due with it if they made them for 6870. Instead Eddy is all over the map lately with his design choices. I guess he thinks that aesthetics are the way to go to recover the losses that they incurred from the Nickel plate issues. Nevermind that the CSQs' are fuglier'n hell.









~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So bummed. I need to get my unused GPU under water soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully before I get stuck having to buy EK CSQ Universal Block. They are starting to flood the market with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


haha forcing people to buy their newer, more "elegant" design








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Gotta say, the Heatkiller blocks are works of art, nothing less. Seriously, if there was a water cooling museum, they would be the main attraction. I love mine


i couldn't agree more







not too mention iirc they performed the best as well! according to martinlabs.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> so do i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Oh yeah, you sure about it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many reviews would beg to differ. It's okay not to like the new design, but it's not okay to (intentionally?) spread false information.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if fanboy... or just trolling.
Click to expand...

Naw I think he's an EK employee.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Added some white strips yesterday


That build looks amazing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Not sure if fanboy... or just trolling.


He works for EK.....please stop with the fanboi comments,this is not an AMD/INTEL ATI/NVIDIA thread

CSQ is not for me either,HK or MIPS all the way.
I have EK in my bench,all the blocks are the old style and better for it.
I don't use EK now as im a objector of Eddy's behaviour during the recent and continuing plating fiasco. Blaming your customer base for poor workmanship is not the way to get my money.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Naw I think he's an EK employee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Think?
please tell me you ACTUALLY know who he is..


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Link the reviews. It was reviewed HERE on OCN and if I remember correctly it was not as good as its predecessors. I'm going by information that was here.
> Just like 80% of those polled across the net don't like the looks of these blocks.
> If that's misinformation then well I don't know what to say.


LOL, you are judgeding a product based on ONE single forum review? Are you serious or just kidding with me?
This is the most methodologically correct review of EK-Supremacy I have come upon so far and the results are more or less the same as mine:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?281687-EK-Supremacy-Review (full test: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20116032/Review/Supremacy/V2/EK%20Supremacy_V2.pdf )
Granted this guy is no Martin or Skinnee but he is the closest comparison.
Quote:


> Eddy doesn't want anyone experienced reviewing that block. He emailed Tweak Town who only put it up against a handful of blocks.


Not true, but TweakTown did a KIT review, the whole package more than a block review. Read more carefully.
Quote:


> In fact, he was so incensed that Sidewinder(Jab-Tech maybe?) had the audacity to make such comparisons that he threatened(did?) to hit them with a Liable suit.
> So you go ahead and keep guzzling the Kool-Aid. I have no axe to grind where EK is concerned.


HA HA HA HA. Where do you get this from? Who pays you to write this ****?









As for lawsuit against Sidewinder - we never sued Sidewinder, we only gave them cease & desist warning because they were selling 3rd party modified EK products under EK Water Blocks brand name. As a result we asked for a refund and terminated their reseller agreement.
Quote:


> The bulk of my Loop(FC, CPU, Pump Top and Fittings) are all EK.
> Two or 3 reviews are culled through Google Search. If you wish to refute me at least have something a little more substantial and from the accepted Review Sites. But I doubt that will ever happen because Eddy isn't asking them to review it. Two or 3 obscure reviews don't count as "Many" btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What is the matter with you? Eddy is a Managing Director of EK. He does not arrange reviews or talk on the forums. Besides, EK-Supremacy is more or less my project, I spent two months optimizing it on every platform, why would you think I would let an inferior product to replace EK-Supreme HF? We could just slap CSQ design on EK-Supreme HF then.

Your failed logic frightens me.

If you have any other questions you can contact me at: n dot tivadar at ekwb dot com , I will not hang around these FUD filled forums.

Regards,
Niko


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That's a shame tiborr,you have always been helpful....


----------



## ugotd8

You sir are far too emotional to be taken seriously. You and your company still owe me money from the catastrophe of Nicklegate. Please don't go, please come back to tell us again how dumb your customers are, and how it's all our fault that your product failed.

In case you miss the irony in my comments, then this is for you:


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Too much hate in here....


That goes both ways in my opinion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Abusing Tiborr serves no purpose,he is not Eddy.
But he is a guy who can provide feedback and make changes.

This is not the thread for flaming.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I have and will contuine to use EK stuff. I have never had a problem with any of their blocks new or old.


That's great, and I'm happy for you. No sarcasm intended there.

You have to admit that there are many members here that haven't been as fortunate and had to deal with the wonder that is ek customer service. Maybe it's gotten better, I will never know.

I stand by what I said, that response to criticism was emotional at best, and childish at worst.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Abusing Tiborr serves no purpose,he is not Eddy.
> But he is a guy who can provide feedback and make changes.
> This is not the thread for flaming.


QFT, thanks, lost sight for a moment.


----------



## superericla

Well then, what happened here? Anyways, back to water cooling discussion.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well then, what happened here? Anyways, back to water cooling discussion.


Put my foot in my mouth as usual.

You get that fancy new block ?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Put my foot in my mouth as usual.
> You get that fancy new block ?


It appears to be lost in the postal service. The tracking shows it as "delivered" but it isn't here. I contacted the USPS through email so hopefully they get it sorted out.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It appears to be lost in the postal service. The tracking shows it as "delivered" but it isn't here. I contacted the USPS through email so hopefully they get it sorted out.


yeah i was pretty disappointed reading that in your log, gotta love usps







pretty unfortunate, because i use them 80% of the time over ups.

but i am really looking forward to that bold move you plan to accomplish with that block


----------



## sortableturnip

Man, this discussion went from







to







to







to







to







to







lol


----------



## covert ash

Let's steer this vehicle back on topic shall we?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> so do i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The evil twin brother!












I apologize for my phone pics though...


----------



## chino1974

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Let's steer this vehicle back on topic shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The evil twin brother!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apologize for my phone pics though...






IO have been ooking around and trying to figure out which block would be the best deal price,looks and performance wise for the 7970 I should be getting delivered today. I know that performance should be a higher priority than looks and try to keep to that idea as long as it's not something totally hideous. But this Heatkiller block even if it didn't perform well would still make it on top 3 choices list. Which to be honest I still haven't even been able to decide a top 3 list yet. Guys what would you put on a top 3 list if you were personally buying a waterblock for your 7970?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> so do i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That block, that backplate....just no words, but lots of








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I have and will contuine to use EK stuff. I have never had a problem with any of their blocks new or old.


^This

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Abusing Tiborr serves no purpose,he is not Eddy.
> But he is a guy who can provide feedback and make changes.
> *This is not the thread for flaming.*


Seriously, what happened in here....sorry nevermind it, don't want to bring up anymore hate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Let's steer this vehicle back on topic shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The evil twin brother!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apologize for my phone pics though...


Twins! You as well get plenty of







I was really leaning towards XSPC blocks for my 670's, but the more I read about and see the Heatkillers blocks, the more I'm interested in their products.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> IO have been ooking around and trying to figure out which block would be the best deal price,looks and performance wise for the 7970 I should be getting delivered today. I know that performance should be a higher priority than looks and try to keep to that idea as long as it's not something totally hideous. But this Heatkiller block even if it didn't perform well would still make it on top 3 choices list. Which to be honest I still haven't even been able to decide a top 3 list yet. Guys what would you put on a top 3 list if you were personally buying a waterblock for your 7970?


In no Particular order ...

HeatKiller X3
Swiftech Komoda
XSPC Razor

After that ... If we ignore looks

EK Radeon (really hate the crop circles)


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If Duralene came in colors, I would seriously entertain the thought of changing it. Can't beat the price right now. But that price isn't going to stay that low as demand increases. Hell, I'm shocked that the vendors aren't jacking up the price now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and to clear up a minor discrepancy... I've NEVER run an additive in my loop. The coolant is crystal clear and the opaque tubing that I run doesn't require an anti-microbial. I like a fairly dark room so the lack of sunlight is a definite plus in this regard. No additives not even Killcoil. Was considering it but I already have copper brass and nickel in my loop. I thought better of adding another metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Strange how no one is selling Durelene in Europe...........


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Let's steer this vehicle back on topic shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The evil twin brother!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apologize for my phone pics though...


I have 3 of those plus plates....

Very nice.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Link the reviews. It was reviewed HERE on OCN and if I remember correctly it was not as good as its predecessors. I'm going by information that was here.
> Just like 80% of those polled across the net don't like the looks of these blocks.
> If that's misinformation then well I don't know what to say.
> Eddy doesn't want anyone experienced reviewing that block. He emailed Tweak Town who only put it up against a handful of blocks. In fact, he was so incensed that Sidewinder(Jab-Tech maybe?) had the audacity to make such comparisons that he threatened(did?) to hit them with a Liable suit.
> So you go ahead and keep guzzling the Kool-Aid. I have no axe to grind where EK is concerned. The bulk of my Loop(FC, CPU, Pump Top and Fittings) are all EK.
> Two or 3 reviews are culled through Google Search. If you wish to refute me at least have something a little more substantial and from the accepted Review Sites. But I doubt that will ever happen because Eddy isn't asking them to review it. Two or 3 obscure reviews don't count as "Many" btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I found this test:

http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/487-test-ekwb-supremacy-der-verstossene.html?showall=0&start=3

the older EK HF is better than the newer block in there

http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/487-test-ekwb-supremacy-der-verstossene.html?showall=0&start=4

His conclusion:

For us it was quite tedious to evaluate the Supremacy. So we had secretly hoped that some performance improvements for cooling power would be available. But this is not the case. Instead, you get a cooler that was well made and special design features. One must also write to the fact that the performance is excellent, and for a highly overclocked system easily enough. Many points collects EKWaterblocks your accessories, because here everything is here that you need for all modern sockets.

But the Gelid Extreme makes her a lot, so when we entstdand partly the impression that the Producer wants to increase the cooling capacity based on the Thermal Grease. So you can talk throughout Viewed from a well-rounded package that is available at a price of about 60 €. Its high-quality, and excellent accessories with all its aspects and possibilities is better than sum of its predecessor. So it is not the cooling capacity, but the overall package was brought to us our exclusive award.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I for one love all of my EK blocks. They are the older Nickel-plexi ones and they are sexy as hell! No issues so far either other than some staining which is to be expected when using Mayhems Grape Red...


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I for one love all of my EK blocks. They are the older Nickel-plexi ones and they are sexy as hell! No issues so far either other than some staining which is to be expected when using Mayhems Grape Red...


What is the easiest way to clean the staining ...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I have no idea. Don't really feel like pulling them apart and since I don't plan on changing the color scheme any time soon I'm not really fussed about it...


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Twins! You as well get plenty of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really leaning towards XSPC blocks for my 670's, but the more I read about and see the Heatkillers blocks, the more I'm interested in their products.


The HK's are a little more pricey, but I feel the quality and attention to detail are definitely there.









Even the smallest thing like providing pre-cut thermal pads, which is something you're not aware of until you open the package, is a VERY welcome aspect of HK's presentation. My previous experiences with Koolance and EK for my old GTX 580's, where I had to cut the pads down on my own, leaves a lot of opportunity to frustrate the end-user - especially if you have more than one GPU.









I was looking at the XSPC's myself, but ultimately, I just fell in love with the Nickel-Black look of the HK block.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have 3 of those plus plates....
> Very nice.










Do. Want.









Maybe some day...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> What is the easiest way to clean the staining ...


I filled my blocks with vinegar and let it sit for about an hour. Rise and repeat until most, if not all, of the staining is gone. Even with my EK plexi Nickel EN blocks, the plating was not affected by it. Removing the other gunk (like plasticizer or debris from flaking blocks or radiators) is a different matter, though, and would most likely require taking apart the block to scrub it clean with a soft towel or toothbrush.

After struggling with my plexi Nickel EK blocks on my 580's, I think I'm done with the novelty of plexi blocks, for now. In the end, it was too much work to keep up with the clean appearances and it's not like it performed any better either.


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Link the reviews. It was reviewed HERE on OCN and if I remember correctly it was not as good as its predecessors. I'm going by information that was here.
> Just like 80% of those polled across the net don't like the looks of these blocks.
> If that's misinformation then well I don't know what to say.
> Eddy doesn't want anyone experienced reviewing that block. He emailed Tweak Town who only put it up against a handful of blocks. In fact, he was so incensed that Sidewinder(Jab-Tech maybe?) had the audacity to make such comparisons that he threatened(did?) to hit them with a Liable suit.
> So you go ahead and keep guzzling the Kool-Aid. I have no axe to grind where EK is concerned. The bulk of my Loop(FC, CPU, Pump Top and Fittings) are all EK.
> Two or 3 reviews are culled through Google Search. If you wish to refute me at least have something a little more substantial and from the accepted Review Sites. But I doubt that will ever happen because Eddy isn't asking them to review it. Two or 3 obscure reviews don't count as "Many" btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Personally, I think they tanked their business when their customer service went down the drain with the discoloring of their blocks. Then, to turn around and say that it must be someone elses problem, not theirs, was a slap in the face to the community. Design or not, EK and Eddy cake take their Liability Suit and shove it.


----------



## sortableturnip

Man looking at that 680 backplate makes me wish they made one for the HD 6850


----------



## mironccr345

^ The HeatKiller blocks and back plates are so nice. They've really matured in appearance over time.


----------



## Lazy Bear

I love EK's blocks for a few reasons;

1. They're the ONLY company that sells numerous product accessories, many of which are aesthetic, and they sell white acetal tops, which I love. If other companies were not so focused on super shiny externals, I'd buy from them, but sadly they aren't.

2. I get really great performance with my Supreme-HF, granted I haven't tried any of the new blocks because, frankly, they don't look nice unless they are all used together in a similar themed rig, but my last gen blocks are doing great!

3. They're attractive, in my opinion. I love their bridges, and I love their logo's design. I have no issues with the CSQ blocks, and I especially love their black acetal tops. I'm not such a big fan of the plexi tops, but I don't like plexi that much regardless. I will continue to give business to EK because I like what their products look like, and the performance is good.

However, if I ever want to do a copper build I know that Alphacool (or is it Phyoba?) is out there with their sweet copper themed blocks, but that's really the only instance in which I would personally use other blocks.


----------



## ranger82

Im new to the forums, but I have been doing this for years and just thought I would share my current build

Corsair 800D
P67 Sabertooth
I5 2550K - OCed 4.5Ghz
16gb G.Skill Sniper 2133mhz ( 4gb dedicated to Ram Disk)
2 OCZ 60gb SATA III Raid 0 - OS
1 OCZ 120gb SATA III - Games
1 WD 500gb Spindle SATA III - Data
2 EVGA 560 TI's - OCed 950Mhz
Cooler Master 1200W PSU
LG BluRay Disk Drive

XSPC 360 Rad, 120 Rad
XSPC Reservoir
Swiftech Pump
Swiftech CPU Block
2 Heatkiller GPU Blocks


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranger82*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im new to the forums, but I have been doing this for years and just thought I would share my current build
> Corsair 800D
> P67 Sabertooth
> I5 2550K - OCed 4.5Ghz
> 16gb G.Skill Sniper 2133mhz ( 4gb dedicated to Ram Disk)
> 2 OCZ 60gb SATA III Raid 0 - OS
> 1 OCZ 120gb SATA III - Games
> 1 WD 500gb Spindle SATA III - Data
> 2 EVGA 560 TI's - OCed 950Mhz
> Cooler Master 1200W PSU
> LG BluRay Disk Drive
> XSPC 360 Rad, 120 Rad
> XSPC Reservoir
> Swiftech Pump
> Swiftech CPU Block
> 2 Heatkiller GPU Blocks


Welcome to OCN, nice rig


----------



## ugotd8

Anyone with some spare WC parts want to join me in donating prizes to the September Foldathon 2012 (link in my sig) ?


----------



## Phirebird

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I love EK's blocks for a few reasons;
> 1. They're the ONLY company that sells numerous product accessories, many of which are aesthetic, and they sell white acetal tops, which I love. If other companies were not so focused on super shiny externals, I'd buy from them, but sadly they aren't.
> 2. I get really great performance with my Supreme-HF, granted I haven't tried any of the new blocks because, frankly, they don't look nice unless they are all used together in a similar themed rig, but my last gen blocks are doing great!
> 3. They're attractive, in my opinion. I love their bridges, and I love their logo's design. I have no issues with the CSQ blocks, and I especially love their black acetal tops. I'm not such a big fan of the plexi tops, but I don't like plexi that much regardless. I will continue to give business to EK because I like what their products look like, and the performance is good.
> However, if I ever want to do a copper build I know that Alphacool (or is it Phyoba?) is out there with their sweet copper themed blocks, but that's really the only instance in which I would personally use other blocks.


Respect. Come on guys lighten up on the EKWB issue, I figure design changes are a way of enhancing your latest rig, who wants their GTX7XX or HD8XXX to look like a watercooled GTX 295 or HD4970? If you were a prolific upgrader, you would sell off your old system and snatch up a matching kit from whatever company sold the most appealing products. I think EK service is exceptional, especially with their cooling configurator service which I have been using to identify which boards I can water cool.

Right now my RATS NEST PC doesn't care about brand loyalty, even the fittings are from 5 different companies, the only thing that's doubled up is the aquacomputer aquatsream xt ultras, so I probably wouldn't want a plexi CSQ but I wouldn't cry if I had a nickel acetal one. However I reckon if you have issues with the new EKWB then consider this; not only did they release new waterblocks for the latest graphics cards, cpus and ram, but they also went out of their way to ensure that the majority of high end watercooling users who didn't have the latest or weren't going to spend so much could also have a slice of the CSQ pie on slightly older hardware.

I personally go for the highest performers with exceptional quality, and I like European engineering for that regard (TFC Feser Monsta, Aquastream XTs, Upcoming 79x0 NI-BI from Watercool, noctua fans). Even at the higher prices I pay, construction and durability are a must, and the only built in obsolescence that these devices have is when or if a new one comes out you may want it.


----------



## ranger82

I agree European engineering is were it is as far as blocks and coolant are concerned.


----------



## ranger82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Welcome to OCN, nice rig


Thank You sir


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I too have a P67 Sabertooth sitting in my build room waiting to be put into a 600TSE. I want to get the Z77 Sabertooth fan for it though...


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I love EK's blocks for a few reasons;
> 1. They're the ONLY company that sells numerous product accessories, many of which are aesthetic, and they sell white acetal tops, which I love. If other companies were not so focused on super shiny externals, I'd buy from them, but sadly they aren't.
> 2. I get really great performance with my Supreme-HF, granted I haven't tried any of the new blocks because, frankly, they don't look nice unless they are all used together in a similar themed rig, but my last gen blocks are doing great!
> 3. They're attractive, in my opinion. I love their bridges, and I love their logo's design. I have no issues with the CSQ blocks, and I especially love their black acetal tops. I'm not such a big fan of the plexi tops, but I don't like plexi that much regardless. I will continue to give business to EK because I like what their products look like, and the performance is good.
> However, if I ever want to do a copper build I know that Alphacool (or is it Phyoba?) is out there with their sweet copper themed blocks, but that's really the only instance in which I would personally use other blocks.


You make some good points. You mentioned accessories, but I also find it great that they produce waterblocks for custom PCBs. For example, they have blocks for Asus DCII and MSI Lightning cards. Previously, I'd also loved the way EK's products looked. Elegant and unassuming. That's why I was so outraged when the crop circles appeared. But the one thing that really turned me off EK was the way they handled the whole Nickel Fiasco. To sum up their response in the words of Homer Simpson: "This is everybody's fault but mine..." But at least they let people RMA them.


----------



## Lazy Bear

I don't care about their nickel blocks, as long as their copper works I am good.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Does anyone know of an Online Dealer that ships water cooling components Internationally ... ... I am looking for a DT Sniper in White


----------



## walldo

I think its an Excellent job! Being a DYI Guy You make us proud


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Link the reviews. It was reviewed HERE on OCN and if I remember correctly it was not as good as its predecessors. I'm going by information that was here.
> Just like 80% of those polled across the net don't like the looks of these blocks.
> If that's misinformation then well I don't know what to say.
> 
> 
> 
> LOL, you are judgeding a product based on ONE single forum review? Are you serious or just kidding with me?
> This is the most methodologically correct review of EK-Supremacy I have come upon so far and the results are more or less the same as mine:
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?281687-EK-Supremacy-Review (full test: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20116032/Review/Supremacy/V2/EK%20Supremacy_V2.pdf )
> Granted this guy is no Martin or Skinnee but he is the closest comparison.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Eddy doesn't want anyone experienced reviewing that block. He emailed Tweak Town who only put it up against a handful of blocks.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not true, but TweakTown did a KIT review, the whole package more than a block review. Read more carefully.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> In fact, he was so incensed that Sidewinder(Jab-Tech maybe?) had the audacity to make such comparisons that he threatened(did?) to hit them with a Liable suit.
> So you go ahead and keep guzzling the Kool-Aid. I have no axe to grind where EK is concerned.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> HA HA HA HA. Where do you get this from? Who pays you to write this ****?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for lawsuit against Sidewinder - we never sued Sidewinder, we only gave them cease & desist warning because they were selling 3rd party modified EK products under EK Water Blocks brand name. As a result we asked for a refund and terminated their reseller agreement.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The bulk of my Loop(FC, CPU, Pump Top and Fittings) are all EK.
> Two or 3 reviews are culled through Google Search. If you wish to refute me at least have something a little more substantial and from the accepted Review Sites. But I doubt that will ever happen because Eddy isn't asking them to review it. Two or 3 obscure reviews don't count as "Many" btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What is the matter with you? Eddy is a Managing Director of EK. He does not arrange reviews or talk on the forums. Besides, EK-Supremacy is more or less my project, I spent two months optimizing it on every platform, why would you think I would let an inferior product to replace EK-Supreme HF? We could just slap CSQ design on EK-Supreme HF then.
> 
> Your failed logic frightens me.
> 
> If you have any other questions you can contact me at: n dot tivadar at ekwb dot com , I will not hang around these FUD filled forums.
> 
> Regards,
> Niko
Click to expand...

Sorry tibor, but

1) Just because you *optimized* "Supremacy" on EVERY platform does not mean it out performs its predecessor blocks. It just means that you fine tuned it to work across all platforms. Yippeeeeeeeee.









2) Tweak Town state in their Review that they had received an email asking them to review Supremacy because they gave an EK GPU block a favorable review. Say what you want but it sure looks to me that your company is ducking any reviewer who could potentially give your product a bad review. THAT is what I'm saying. You're making this out to be me spreading a conspiracy theory. In fact that was NEVER the case.

3) As far as Sidewinder goes, with the history that EK has pointing fingers in the blame game, I have to give them the Benefit of Doubt. They say it was due to a review where they compared all blocks not just EK. I say with the lack of accepted Reviewers input on the product that this is probably truer than you wish to admit.

It's not failed logic when your company is INTENTIONALLY vague this long after product launch. I worked in sales for over 15 years. I've NEVER seen a company that blamed the end user for a faulty product. I didn't sell cheap product either. 3 and a half years in Automotive parts alone so it's not like I sold low buck product that nobody cares if it fails.

As I said let the reviews do the talking. You said there were many. Link them. I own EK product, I love the products that I do own. I have no axe to grind against EK other than the Pug Ugly looks of the new blocks and the downgrade in performance compared to previous HF versions.

I get it, you gotta stick up for your block. Not much to stick up for imho because as I said it doesn't perform as well as the previous 2 blocks and at the rate competitors are catching up to THOSE blocks it puts Supremacy in the middle of the pack. Oh also Tweak Town had to straighten the fins in that block. Something that would AUTOMATICALLY void the warranty of my new block if I were to purchase one and have the same issue.

I'm not gonna flame you but your product is not up to your claims.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That's a shame tiborr,you have always been helpful....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Abusing Tiborr serves no purpose,he is not Eddy.
> But he is a guy who can provide feedback and make changes.
> 
> This is not the thread for flaming.


Agreed and I won't be flaming. I stated the facts as I know them. That's discussion. I've no animosity toward Tibor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Link the reviews. It was reviewed HERE on OCN and if I remember correctly it was not as good as its predecessors. I'm going by information that was here.
> Just like 80% of those polled across the net don't like the looks of these blocks.
> If that's misinformation then well I don't know what to say.
> Eddy doesn't want anyone experienced reviewing that block. He emailed Tweak Town who only put it up against a handful of blocks. In fact, he was so incensed that Sidewinder(Jab-Tech maybe?) had the audacity to make such comparisons that he threatened(did?) to hit them with a Liable suit.
> So you go ahead and keep guzzling the Kool-Aid. I have no axe to grind where EK is concerned. The bulk of my Loop(FC, CPU, Pump Top and Fittings) are all EK.
> Two or 3 reviews are culled through Google Search. If you wish to refute me at least have something a little more substantial and from the accepted Review Sites. But I doubt that will ever happen because Eddy isn't asking them to review it. Two or 3 obscure reviews don't count as "Many" btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this test:
> 
> http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/487-test-ekwb-supremacy-der-verstossene.html?showall=0&start=3
> 
> the older EK HF is better than the newer block in there
> 
> http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/487-test-ekwb-supremacy-der-verstossene.html?showall=0&start=4
> 
> His conclusion:
> 
> For us it was quite tedious to evaluate the Supremacy. So we had secretly hoped that some performance improvements for cooling power would be available. But this is not the case. Instead, you get a cooler that was well made and special design features. One must also write to the fact that the performance is excellent, and for a highly overclocked system easily enough. Many points collects EKWaterblocks your accessories, because here everything is here that you need for all modern sockets.
> 
> But the Gelid Extreme makes her a lot, so when we entstdand partly the impression that the Producer wants to increase the cooling capacity based on the Thermal Grease. So you can talk throughout Viewed from a well-rounded package that is available at a price of about 60 €. Its high-quality, and excellent accessories with all its aspects and possibilities is better than sum of its predecessor. So it is not the cooling capacity, but the overall package was brought to us our exclusive award.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the input Bundy. I appreciate the link to the review.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halcyon-twin*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Link the reviews. It was reviewed HERE on OCN and if I remember correctly it was not as good as its predecessors. I'm going by information that was here.
> Just like 80% of those polled across the net don't like the looks of these blocks.
> If that's misinformation then well I don't know what to say.
> Eddy doesn't want anyone experienced reviewing that block. He emailed Tweak Town who only put it up against a handful of blocks. In fact, he was so incensed that Sidewinder(Jab-Tech maybe?) had the audacity to make such comparisons that he threatened(did?) to hit them with a Liable suit.
> So you go ahead and keep guzzling the Kool-Aid. I have no axe to grind where EK is concerned. The bulk of my Loop(FC, CPU, Pump Top and Fittings) are all EK.
> Two or 3 reviews are culled through Google Search. If you wish to refute me at least have something a little more substantial and from the accepted Review Sites. But I doubt that will ever happen because Eddy isn't asking them to review it. Two or 3 obscure reviews don't count as "Many" btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I think they tanked their business when their customer service went down the drain with the discoloring of their blocks. Then, *to turn around and say that it must be someone elses problem, not theirs, was a slap in the face to the community*. Design or not, EK and Eddy cake take their Liability Suit and shove it.
Click to expand...

Speak on it my brutha.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Does anyone know of an Online Dealer that ships water cooling components Internationally ... ... I am looking for a DT Sniper in White


Check with Performance-PCs. I know they ship to Brazil at least. They may ship to So Africa. Not sure about any Aussie or New Zealand businesses that may ship there. Our brothers and sisters down under may have insight into this.









~Ceadder


----------



## ToothBear

i have lurked this thread some times, and found some realy usefull information, and awesome pictures. just wanted to contribute by posting a picture of my ongoing G5 atx conversion. i have already monted the atx MB plate and backplate, and i am in the process og making holes for radiator, and reservoior. also, i am, as you can see from the picture halfway done with sanding, and i modified the logo.

as for hardware, i will just move my old 1155 rig in to the new case, as my economy is lacking, being a student. this build is al about the case. so here it is, just your usual G5 mod, i can most updates if you guys are intrested.


----------



## mombasa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Does anyone know of an Online Dealer that ships water cooling components Internationally ... ... I am looking for a DT Sniper in White


www.performance-pcs.com


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mombasa*
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


Thank you very much ... no DT sniper though ... unless I missed it ... ... Looks like I am stuck going with the Apogee HD ...

I have seen diagrams showing the Apogee HD using 1 "in" and 3 "outs" ... ... how will that effect performance ?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Does anyone know of an Online Dealer that ships water cooling components Internationally ... ... I am looking for a DT Sniper in White


There are loads mate, knock yourself out







:

http://specialtech.co.uk/

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/

http://www.frozencpu.com/

All of the above ship to South Africa-not that i should be helping you out, you kicked our butts in cricket









*UPDATE:*

Ok, it looks like none of the above stock the DT Sniper, but why dont you just go here :http://www.dtwaterblocks.com/dt-sniper-white/

It's the link to the DT sniper store and their shipping tab says that they ship to virtually anywhere in the world-what better than straight from the makers themselves?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I think he's looking for something cheaper than the manufacturer kkorky. I went to the Swiftech site the other day to see if I could get a better price on the Graphics Card Heatsink that I need. Not only do they not stock it for resale on their site, the ones they do stock are $10 more than those around the Interwebs and that's before shipping.









Failed Cricket matches are a good reason to withhold input though.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I think he's looking for something cheaper than the manufacturer kkorky. I went to the Swiftech site the other day to see if I could get a better price on the Graphics Card Heatsink that I need. Not only do they not stock it for resale on their site, the ones they do stock are $10 more than those around the Interwebs and that's before shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Failed Cricket matches are a good reason to withhold input though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


LOL!

As for the wc items, i guess its the same old story, try to fleece the customer if you can.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I think he's looking for something cheaper than the manufacturer kkorky. I went to the Swiftech site the other day to see if I could get a better price on the Graphics Card Heatsink that I need. Not only do they not stock it for resale on their site, the ones they do stock are $10 more than those around the Interwebs and that's before shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Failed Cricket matches are a good reason to withhold input though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL!
> 
> As for the wc items, i guess its the same old story, try to fleece the customer if you can.
Click to expand...

Well I understand why mfr charge more. They give vendors bulk prices. That's how you can get most things cheaper than MSRP. It saves mfr the headaches of building more units than necessary and saves them labor and material cost. But one would think that after so many units have been sold to the vendors that what they have left would be marked at a comparable price.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sidewinder_Computers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> As for lawsuit against Sidewinder - we never sued Sidewinder, we only gave them cease & desist warning because they were selling 3rd party modified EK products under EK Water Blocks brand name. As a result we asked for a refund and terminated their reseller agreement.
> What is the matter with you? Eddy is a Managing Director of EK. He does not arrange reviews or talk on the forums. Besides, EK-Supremacy is more or less my project, I spent two months optimizing it on every platform, why would you think I would let an inferior product to replace EK-Supreme HF? We could just slap CSQ design on EK-Supreme HF then.
> Your failed logic frightens me.
> If you have any other questions you can contact me at: n dot tivadar at ekwb dot com , I will not hang around these FUD filled forums.
> Regards,
> Niko


Could I get a copy of this reseller agreement you speak of? Because in the four years of dealing with EK before the extortion attempt, I never signed such a thing.
Regards,
Gary


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sidewinder_Computers*
> 
> Could I get a copy of this reseller agreement you speak of? Because in the four years of dealing with EK before the extortion attempt, I never signed such a thing.
> Regards,
> Gary


XD

Hey Gary,how did that pan out in the end?
They still pissed you supplied the block for RRT testing?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Man, this discussion went from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to
> 
> 
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> 
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> to
> 
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> to
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> to
> 
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> to
> 
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> 
> lol


yeah seriously. this is definitely not the thread to bring up drama. what gives?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covert ash*
> 
> Let's steer this vehicle back on topic shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The evil twin brother!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apologize for my phone pics though...


very nice!! (i hate those 6/8pin connectors though







)


----------



## Plutonium10

I think it's about time I got one of those Heatkiller blocks for my 7970. Oh but then everything will be so quiet and I'll be able to hear the coil whine so much better!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> yeah seriously. this is definitely not the thread to bring up drama. what gives?


Civilized discussion of EK products does tend to fall apart rather quickly...


----------



## NostraD

Oh, the very thin line between love and hate - how many times is it crossed only to be be crossed back and then again. What a vicious cycle and thus is the life of a watercooling enthusiast! (ie: I LOVE watercooling, I HATE the expense)!









Also LOVE those HK. Blocks...HATE that I can't afford them right now!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I think it's about time I got one of those Heatkiller blocks for my 7970. Oh but then everything will be so quiet and I'll be able to hear the coil whine so much better!


ah the infamous coil whine! you do indeed have a very good point about that! still think you should do it though


----------



## Plutonium10

Oh don't worry, I will.







Just waiting for my 800D to arrive before I order any parts for the loop.


----------



## bomberjun

moar rads?


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Would you like some 800D to go with your Rads.









Awesome setup.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> yeah seriously. this is definitely not the thread to bring up drama. what gives?
> 
> 
> 
> Civilized discussion of EK products does tend to fall apart rather quickly...
Click to expand...

Don't nobody blame me now. I been nothin but civil from the very beginning. To the point of civilly asking for links.

I'm indeed no expert on this subject but I do pay attention.









~Ceadder


----------



## LolCakeLazors

I'm planning on putting a WC loop in a Fractal Design Arc Midi once I can get the money to replace my WC'ed Storm Scout.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352007

Any suggestions on a reservoir and pump combo for the case? I'm thinking of the FrozenQ Double Bay but I'm thinking of adding a Bitfenix Recon 5 fan controller into the bay drives and the case only has 2 bay drives.


----------



## bomberjun

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^Would you like some 800D to go with your Rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder






Thanks Ceader!!! Quiet a tough fight to put those rads all together in a very tight space.But its worth every effort though.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> I'm planning on putting a WC loop in a Fractal Design Arc Midi once I can get the money to replace my WC'ed Storm Scout.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352007
> Any suggestions on a reservoir and pump combo for the case? I'm thinking of the FrozenQ Double Bay but I'm thinking of adding a Bitfenix Recon 5 fan controller into the bay drives and the case only has 2 bay drives.


is the frozen q dual bay res a res/pump combo , I thought it was just a res , if you want a true dual bay res/pump combo id look into the xspc ones for sure too , mated with a D5 pump ..


----------



## HF Venom

Hi guys









I'm pretty new to the forums, I don't post much, usually just lurcking, but I thought I join the water cooling club since this is what interests me the most on here








This is my very first build (PC and water cooling wise) it's about 2 months old now. Pretty basic, but yeah... looking to do a major upgrade soon(ish) anyways, just thought I'd share.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> is the frozen q dual bay res a res/pump combo , I thought it was just a res , if you want a true dual bay res/pump combo id look into the xspc ones for sure too , mated with a D5 pump ..


You can get a MCP35X with it attached to it.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> You can get a MCP35X with it attached to it.


sweet good to know !


----------



## Ceadderman

They have a D5 attachment too.









~Ceadder


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Hmm I'm really leaning to the FrozenQ but I really want an open bay for the Bitfenix controller. Any comments on the Koolance RP-401X2?
Looks like you have to use barbs with it though :/


----------



## jellis142

Dead serious question for you guys.

I just picked up a solid speed Swiftech MCP655-B. It's louder then I expected at full speed. I understand there was a version with a control dial for speed, but I figured, it's a popular pump, it can't be _that_ loud, can it?

It was







And it makes horrible sloshing in my bay res. I was wondering if it could be controlled with a controller? I mean, would it be save to undervolt the pump without doing damage, assuming the controller was beefy enough?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> Dead serious question for you guys.
> I just picked up a solid speed Swiftech MCP655-B. It's louder then I expected at full speed. I understand there was a version with a control dial for speed, but I figured, it's a popular pump, it can't be _that_ loud, can it?
> It was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it makes horrible sloshing in my bay res. I was wondering if it could be controlled with a controller? I mean, would it be save to undervolt the pump without doing damage, assuming the controller was beefy enough?


i dont see why not.
anyone can do that with a fan, and they run at the same voltage (unless that pump is modded for 24v)

but yes it would have to be a beefy enough of a controller.
i saw a 50w per channel one on frozencpu the other day, cant remember what company but it looked like something i'd get in the future.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> moar rads?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think this is maybe the third time ever I've seen someone run tubing behind the motherboard tray. Gj.

See Forever Alone in sig for my first attempt.







My second attempt should be much better hopefully.


----------



## jellis142

If I won't hurt it, I'm thinking of picking up one or two of these 1St PC Corp controllers. 50w/channel should be more then enough.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> If I won't hurt it, I'm thinking of picking up one or two of these 1St PC Corp controllers. 50w/channel should be more then enough.


thats the one! looks really good plus i like lamptron so i say go for it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> If I won't hurt it, I'm thinking of picking up one or two of these 1St PC Corp controllers. 50w/channel should be more then enough.


Is this an actual Lamptron fan controller of one of those cheap copies? I've never heard of 1st PC Corps.


----------



## bomberjun

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think this is maybe the third time ever I've seen someone run tubing behind the motherboard tray. Gj.
> See Forever Alone in sig for my first attempt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My second attempt should be much better hopefully.






I saw every pic of your rig.. i was like







.. I need to find a coolant something like that for my build!









is Ice Dragon Nanofluid good for 6 months? Its the only available white coolant here in Ph. No matter how I wanted to get a mayhems white coolant, the shipping cost is a PAIN..


----------



## lowfat

Ice Dragon white looks a lot better in my opinion. Its white is a lot more dense. Less watered down. And yes it will definitely last 6 months. It should last years as long as your tubing doesn't leech plasticizer too badly.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> There are loads mate, knock yourself out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> http://specialtech.co.uk/
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
> http://www.frozencpu.com/
> All of the above ship to South Africa-not that i should be helping you out, you kicked our butts in cricket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> Ok, it looks like none of the above stock the DT Sniper, but why dont you just go here :http://www.dtwaterblocks.com/dt-sniper-white/
> It's the link to the DT sniper store and their shipping tab says that they ship to virtually anywhere in the world-what better than straight from the makers themselves?


Most manufacturers don't sell to the public from my experience (which may be wrong for you guys on the other side of the pond) ... but I will look at the links and see if they help ... ... Thanks for posting them









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I think he's looking for something cheaper than the manufacturer kkorky. I went to the Swiftech site the other day to see if I could get a better price on the Graphics Card Heatsink that I need. Not only do they not stock it for resale on their site, the ones they do stock are $10 more than those around the Interwebs and that's before shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Failed Cricket matches are a good reason to withhold input though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah ... cheaper is better in my case ... the more I look at the parts I want to order ... the more I realize I missed something and the price just keeps increasing ... lol ...

As for the cricket ... South Africa barely wins anything ... let us at least be happy about 1 victory every so often ...


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> Dead serious question for you guys.
> I just picked up a solid speed Swiftech MCP655-B. It's louder then I expected at full speed. I understand there was a version with a control dial for speed, but I figured, it's a popular pump, it can't be _that_ loud, can it?
> It was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it makes horrible sloshing in my bay res. I was wondering if it could be controlled with a controller? I mean, would it be save to undervolt the pump without doing damage, assuming the controller was beefy enough?


Chances are, if it's sloshing, then your loop has not been fully bled yet. I have the same pumps as well, and all I hear is a faint hum; but most of the noise is actually coming from my GT AP-15's.

Personally, it was more of a challenge bleeding the loop when I used a bay res, as opposed to a regular tube res. In both cases, the pump became virtually silent when the bleed was fully completed - it's just one took much longer than the other.


----------



## jellis142

I mean it's an EK Spin res, and the water cascade at 100% is a little too loud for me









If that 1St PC Corp isn't the best, what is the best controller that can handle 30+ watts? Don't mention a Sunbeam, I'm tired of them.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> I mean it's an EK Spin res, and the water cascade at 100% is a little too loud for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that 1St PC Corp isn't the best, what is the best controller that can handle 30+ watts? Don't mention a Sunbeam, I'm tired of them.


I don't get a peep from my EK spin res only some water trickling sounds here and there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> I mean it's an EK Spin res, and the water cascade at 100% is a little too loud for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that 1St PC Corp isn't the best, what is the best controller that can handle 30+ watts? Don't mention a Sunbeam, I'm tired of them.


Sunbeam RheoSmart 3/6...









How can you be sick of a solid performer that has heatsinks built onto the PCB and gives you PWM controllability? Sorry if it bugs you but they are true 30w per channel controllers.









~Ceadder


----------



## jellis142

No, I have a horrible one (20w/channel), and the LED's they have are blinding. Is there models less severe in the lighting category?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> No, I have a horrible one (20w/channel), and the LED's they have are blinding. Is there models less severe in the lighting category?


RheoSmart. And 30w per channel. I run 2 pumps and 3 fans on my RheoSmart 3 Channel with PWM.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

What's with all the FC9 copies? I had a G Vans FC9 that crapped out-at the time I didn't know it was a clone and bought the Lamptron FC9 to replace it. So far that's G Vans, 1st PC Corp, at least two copies of the FC9 out there.

But anyway I run two D5's off a FC9. Little heads up though. IT Diva did some checking with a meter recently and found the FC9 varies voltage off the negative side. What does that mean? Well it means that if you are going to try and measure rpm's with something hooked to the FC9 you might have a problem, as typically controllers and motherboards work the opposite way. Nothing wrong with the way the FC9 is made, it just means monitoring rpm could be a problem as her results showed that only when the controller is pushed to WOT does most monitoring devices show a result.
If any of you have found different results, please do tell as I don't know if this is the way the Lamptron has always been designed or a recent thing (varying the negative side voltage).


----------



## The-racer

More pics on demand








15 year old case (thats why the H100 is getto-style ziptied to the side).
Cablemanagement is non existent in here.
Parts list :
Intel I7-870 2.93 Ghz @ 3.988Ghz
Corsair H100
P7H55 motherboard
16Gigs of Ram
Gigabyte 7970 Windforce OC (1055/1570)
Corsair H100 Watercooling (keeping everything very cool @ 31idle and 52°C full load)
Antec 750Watt PSU
Corsair Vforce 3 SSD (2X 120Gig)
Western digital Green 3Tb
Windows 7 64 bit home


Price for most messy case?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They have a D5 attachment too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yup. I just bought the EK-D5 Dual Top from an OCN member and my 200mm by 60mm EK reservoir and attachment for it just came in from FrozenCPU yesterday. I can't wait for the Dual Top to get here so I can upgrade my system.

That combo just looks drop dead sexy IMO.



I'll be adding a 2nd D5 pump, swapping out my old res for the new one, adding another RX360 radiator (3 total), swapping my higher speed Gentle Typhoons for 9 new AP-14's (thee 1450RPM version), adding 2 Bitspower chrome SLI connectors between my video cards, ripping out all my PrimoChill tubing and replacing it with Durelene and converting from FluidXP+ to Distilled water and a kill coil.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty new to the forums, I don't post much, usually just lurcking, but I thought I join the water cooling club since this is what interests me the most on here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my very first build (PC and water cooling wise) it's about 2 months old now. Pretty basic, but yeah... looking to do a major upgrade soon(ish) anyways, just thought I'd share.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a really nice clean build. Rep+








It looks great in the white case, good job with the res and pump placement.
Eventually, you may want to put a waterblock on the gpu. Of course that may need another rad, and the spending continues


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My D5 took literally a week to bleed all the air out. Until then it was pretty noisy but now it's completely inaudible. My TJ11 ended up being the culprit in why the bleeding took so long...


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty new to the forums, I don't post much, usually just lurcking, but I thought I join the water cooling club since this is what interests me the most on here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my very first build (PC and water cooling wise) it's about 2 months old now. Pretty basic, but yeah... looking to do a major upgrade soon(ish) anyways, just thought I'd share.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've got a white Phantom too and have removed both 3.5" cages. After seeing those pics I've got a few questions to ask if that's ok.

-How thick is your rad and what's it's length ? EDIT: nevermind, it's an XTX 240
-What kind of tubing is that (OD/ID) ?
-Is that rad fixed to the top under the 200mm fans using the brackets that are supplied with the case ?

That's pretty much it for now. My questions might get lost in the thread (this one moves fast, probably over then pages a day) so I'll probably just pm you tomorrow or later.


----------



## silvrr

Snapped a pic of my sig rig last night.


Updated Rig by ArMPhotography, on Flickr


----------



## Cord78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> What's with all the FC9 copies? I had a G Vans FC9 that crapped out-at the time I didn't know it was a clone and bought the Lamptron FC9 to replace it. So far that's G Vans, 1st PC Corp, at least two copies of the FC9 out there.


My memoery is a little fuzzy on it but I am 98% confident I remember a lamptron rep stating that the 1st PC Corp is legit and is an authorized reseller/distributor.

Quick google search popped this post in 2009 by Tator Tot (Managing Editor of OCN)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 1st PC CORP is like the main brand, with Lamptron being the sub brand.
> 
> Either way, if you buy a Lamptron FC-2 off Performance-PC's, it'll be the same as buying a 1st PC CORP FC-2 FANATTIC


VERY nice job Silvrr. Just have to place a final order with Dazmode for the last few items I need. A little frustrated that I bought a bitspower D5 top but you can't put monsoon fittings side by side on the same face, the fitting are just too wide and that is with 5/8 OD. I can't even put one Monsoon fitting and one of the stop plugs as it is still too wide.







Had to purchase some additional fittings that would fit.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Snapped a pic of my sig rig last night.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Nice Work







Great Photo Too


----------



## Fonne

How hot is the Laing DDC-pump 12V DDC-1T running ?

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p5079_Laing-DDC-pump-12V-DDC-1T.html

Is thinking about making a custom acrylic cover to it that will enclose the entire pump (Not bottom) - But will is be to hot ?

Also is planning to use "XSPC Laing DDC Top V3 - Acetal" - Any better?


----------



## Phirebird

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The-racer*
> 
> More pics on demand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 15 year old case (thats why the H100 is getto-style ziptied to the side).
> Cablemanagement is non existent in here.
> Parts list :
> Intel I7-870 2.93 Ghz @ 3.988Ghz
> Corsair H100
> P7H55 motherboard
> 16Gigs of Ram
> Gigabyte 7970 Windforce OC (1055/1570)
> Corsair H100 Watercooling (keeping everything very cool @ 31idle and 52°C full load)
> Antec 750Watt PSU
> Corsair Vforce 3 SSD (2X 120Gig)
> Western digital Green 3Tb
> Windows 7 64 bit home
> 
> Price for most messy case?






No prize for you. Only Shame. The Rats nest strikes back!


Notice the tec waterblock sandwich on the boreas. I figure it would be more worthwhile to match up some extra tec to the empty port on the mtec control center and watercool that instead, however noise levels are reduced and temperatures are more restricted on load.

Yes, bubble wrap. It helps







. Switching between fan speeds manually is a royal pain, so i have got to work on extending those fan connections to a controller.
I have a feser 480 that I think I can mount parallel to the monsta with a bracket to cool it further, more on that in another post. Notice how the tubing is being shrunk in this image. That really hurts flow, as I had to insert and even smaller hard tube inside the smaller tubing to help clamp down. The rpms are about 500-750 lower than the cold loop, even though there is much less on the loop (using the same model pump). This could also be due to the height of the reservoir and the lack of a regular (or monsta!) radiator on the cold side.


I win prizes for messiest casings. I had a leak recently from a SpecialTech 1/4" Thread 90° Rotary Compression Fitting and was pretty upset because its the second one that appears to be having issues, a little bit of pressure and they lose water. I took it off the loop and it had a quite loose rotary bit; I could pull on it and it would move quite easy, and so I tried looking for a way to take it off to put a new o-ring or find a way to tighten it. I ended up tightening it by accident by applying force to these two clips in either side of the fitting.



Installed an Corsair Airflow fan kit over the dominators. The prototype is not ready.

BTW Windows 8 shows these images all the right way up, must be reading some gyroscopic information off the metadata or exif whatever. Deal with the disorientation


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I don't understand how you guys can stomahc the sight of your rigs looking like that? But as long as it works for you more power to ya!


----------



## Ceadderman

Ditto!









~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

*New ASUS Maximus V series blocks to be released*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/260/19/New-ASUS-Maximus-V-series-blocks-to-be-released/
Quote:


> The upcoming *EK-FB ASUS M5E for ASUS Maximus V Extrem*e motherboard will be a single piece Full-Board water block which will directly cools Intel Z77 Express southbridge (PCH) as well as PLX PEX8784 PCIe lane splitter controller and the power regulation (VRM / MOSFETs) module. This all-in-one water cooling will require only two G1/4 threaded fittings.
> 
> The upcoming *EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F for ASUS Maximus V Formula* will be the first to hit the market. It will be a two-piece Full-Board water block kit consisting of separate MOSFET- and SB/PCH water block. The solution will directly cools Intel Z77 Express southbridge (PCH) and the power regulation (VRM / MOSFETs) module. EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F will require four G1/4 threaded fittings to operate properly.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *New ASUS Maximus V series blocks to be released*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/260/19/New-ASUS-Maximus-V-series-blocks-to-be-released/


and again no word for maximus v gene... I just touched the chipset block and it was HOT!!I couldn't touch it for more that 5 secs...mosfet/vrm was a bit cooler


----------



## snef

hi

pics of my 2 rigs (one for my wife)

mine


















and wife's rig


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I understand why mfr charge more. They give vendors bulk prices. That's how you can get most things cheaper than MSRP. It saves mfr the headaches of building more units than necessary and saves them labor and material cost. But one would think that after so many units have been sold to the vendors that what they have left would be marked at a comparable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thnx for the Heads up Ceadder -they are still leaches imo, but i guess all is fair in war/love & profit making nowadays


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Most manufacturers don't sell to the public from my experience (which may be wrong for you guys on the other side of the pond) ... but I will look at the links and see if they help ... ... Thanks for posting them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah ... cheaper is better in my case ... the more I look at the parts I want to order ... the more I realize I missed something and the price just keeps increasing ... lol ...
> As for the cricket ... South Africa barely wins anything ... let us at least be happy about 1 victory every so often ...


As much as i hate to admit this, your cricket team atm is # 1 in world rankings mate







And you lot arent too shabby at rugby either!

Fittings
Aquastream xt ultra
Feser tubing
Bitspower

The above is so i don't get accused of going off topic









See, i mentioned stuff to do with water cooling lol!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> No, I have a horrible one (20w/channel), and the LED's they have are blinding. Is there models less severe in the lighting category?


I use a Lamptron Fc5 that is also 30w per channel, and you can change the colours of the display (6 different ones if i remember correctly) i control my led strip and my Aquastream xt ultra with it(easier than having to access the software), and my fans.
I have had no problems whatsoever.

Product:http://lamptron.com/products/view/Fan_Controller_FC5V2


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> hi
> pics of my 2 rigs (one for my wife)
> mine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and wife's rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Both good looking rigs. What are the specs?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> moar rads?


Can never have enough rad


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> I mean it's an EK Spin res, and the water cascade at 100% is a little too loud for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that 1St PC Corp isn't the best, what is the best controller that can handle 30+ watts? Don't mention a Sunbeam, I'm tired of them.


I got a Lamptron FC2 for my external rad setup / same pump as you .. Pump hasn't arrived yet but this has me thinking. I'm going to need PWM to control that Swiftech MCP655 12 VDC Pump With Speed Controller, aren't I.

errr meant to put this in above post.


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> -What kind of tubing is that (OD/ID) ?
> -Is that rad fixed to the top under the 200mm fans using the brackets that are supplied with the case ?


-10mm OD/ 8mm ID (I guess it would be 5\16" ID - 7\16" OD for you US peopz)
-Yes


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Both good looking rigs. What are the specs?


Thanks

My Rig:

Intel I7-3930K @ 4.6Ghz 1.36v (not really a good chip)
Asus Rampage IV Extreme
CaseLabs M8
32GB (8x4) Corsair Dominator GT 2133 CL9
3 x XFX HD7970 OC 1000 Core edition
2 x SSD OCZ Octane 256GB, 2 x OCZ Agility 3 240GB and 2 x Seagate 3TB
Seasonic X-1250

Water Cooling
CPU: Swiftech Appogee HD Black
Board: Koolance MB-ASR4E
GPU: 3 x Koolance VIR-AR797
3 x EK HD7970 Backplate (fit with Koolance GPU waterblock, need to buy some 2.5mm x 10mm screew)
2 x D5 Vario
EK Dual D5 serial Top
EK Multioption X2 250 Advanced
3 x XSPC EX360 (1 Xflow and 2 multiport)
6 x Bitfenix spectre pro red led en push and pull sur un rad et case
18 x Corsair SP120 performance edition
2 x Lamptron touch fan controller
black Fitting (bitspower et TFC)
red Tubing
red coolant
fan grill and fan filter

Wife rig:
Intel i5-3570k
Gigabyte GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3
2 x 4Gb Corsair Vengeance 1600 Low profile white
1 x XFX HD7970 OC 1000 Core edition
1 x OCZ SSD Octane 128Gb
1 x Seagate 3Tb
Bitfenix Shinobi White Windows
Corsair TX750M power supply
7 x Bitfenix 120mm fan spectre (6 x with blue led)

Water cooling
1 x XSPC raystorm
1 XSPC rad EX120
1 x XSPC dual Bay res with one DDC pump
1 x swiftech ddc pump
white Bitspower fittings and angkle adapter
clear feser tubing
distilled water and killcoil


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Both good looking rigs. What are the specs?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Rig(s) Specs!
> 
> 
> 
> My Rig:
> 
> Intel I7-3930K @ 4.6Ghz 1.36v (not really a good chip)
> Asus Rampage IV Extreme
> CaseLabs M8
> 32GB (8x4) Corsair Dominator GT 2133 CL9
> 3 x XFX HD7970 OC 1000 Core edition
> 2 x SSD OCZ Octane 256GB, 2 x OCZ Agility 3 240GB and 2 x Seagate 3TB
> Seasonic X-1250
> 
> Water Cooling
> CPU: Swiftech Appogee HD Black
> Board: Koolance MB-ASR4E
> GPU: 3 x Koolance VIR-AR797
> 3 x EK HD7970 Backplate (fit with Koolance GPU waterblock, need to buy some 2.5mm x 10mm screew)
> 2 x D5 Vario
> EK Dual D5 serial Top
> EK Multioption X2 250 Advanced
> 3 x XSPC EX360 (1 Xflow and 2 multiport)
> 6 x Bitfenix spectre pro red led en push and pull sur un rad et case
> 18 x Corsair SP120 performance edition
> 2 x Lamptron touch fan controller
> black Fitting (bitspower et TFC)
> red Tubing
> red coolant
> fan grill and fan filter
> 
> Wife rig:
> Intel i5-3570k
> Gigabyte GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3
> 2 x 4Gb Corsair Vengeance 1600 Low profile white
> 1 x XFX HD7970 OC 1000 Core edition
> 1 x OCZ SSD Octane 128Gb
> 1 x Seagate 3Tb
> Bitfenix Shinobi White Windows
> Corsair TX750M power supply
> 7 x Bitfenix 120mm fan spectre (6 x with blue led)
> 
> Water cooling
> 1 x XSPC raystorm
> 1 XSPC rad EX120
> 1 x XSPC dual Bay res with one DDC pump
> 1 x swiftech ddc pump
> white Bitspower fittings and angkle adapter
> clear feser tubing
> distilled water and killcoil
Click to expand...

You know if you click your name up in the right hand corner, that will take you to your profile. Then scroll down to signature and edit. You can add all this as well as pics and value for your system(s).









That way everyone can just have a gander and you won't have to put it in again except to update the system(s).









Awesome looking rigs btw.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> My Rig:
> Intel I7-3930K @ 4.6Ghz 1.36v (not really a good chip)
> Asus Rampage IV Extreme
> CaseLabs M8
> 32GB (8x4) Corsair Dominator GT 2133 CL9
> 3 x XFX HD7970 OC 1000 Core edition
> 2 x SSD OCZ Octane 256GB, 2 x OCZ Agility 3 240GB and 2 x Seagate 3TB
> Seasonic X-1250
> Water Cooling
> CPU: Swiftech Appogee HD Black
> Board: Koolance MB-ASR4E
> GPU: 3 x Koolance VIR-AR797
> 3 x EK HD7970 Backplate (fit with Koolance GPU waterblock, need to buy some 2.5mm x 10mm screew)
> 2 x D5 Vario
> EK Dual D5 serial Top
> EK Multioption X2 250 Advanced
> 3 x XSPC EX360 (1 Xflow and 2 multiport)
> 6 x Bitfenix spectre pro red led en push and pull sur un rad et case
> 18 x Corsair SP120 performance edition
> 2 x Lamptron touch fan controller
> black Fitting (bitspower et TFC)
> red Tubing
> red coolant
> fan grill and fan filter
> Wife rig:
> Intel i5-3570k
> Gigabyte GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3
> 2 x 4Gb Corsair Vengeance 1600 Low profile white
> 1 x XFX HD7970 OC 1000 Core edition
> 1 x OCZ SSD Octane 128Gb
> 1 x Seagate 3Tb
> Bitfenix Shinobi White Windows
> Corsair TX750M power supply
> 7 x Bitfenix 120mm fan spectre (6 x with blue led)
> Water cooling
> 1 x XSPC raystorm
> 1 XSPC rad EX120
> 1 x XSPC dual Bay res with one DDC pump
> 1 x swiftech ddc pump
> white Bitspower fittings and angkle adapter
> clear feser tubing
> distilled water and killcoil


Nice work-well done.

Simple question: where did you get the white BP fittings?

*And for the rest of the community, does anyone know where i can pickup a new EK-Supreme HighFlow CPU Block - Plexi 775/1156/1366/AM3 (copper base not nickel)

Ive tried everywhere and yes i know it an old model etc, but im putting together another rig and it suits my needs perfectly-i cant even find a good used one







*


----------



## Lazy Bear

I think you're kinda boned, I'm sorry to say.

You COULD contact EK and ask them if they have any.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I think you're kinda boned, I'm sorry to say.
> You COULD contact EK and ask them if they have any.


Yes, i had written to them earlier, but i don't know if they have any lurking on some forgotten shelf (they have moved into a new hi tech building recently)-i'll see what reply i get, but i thought that i'd ask in the forum. Ive seen people create miracles on this forum


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nice work-well done.
> Simple question: where did you get the white BP fittings?
> *And for the rest of the community, does anyone know where i can pickup a new EK-Supreme HighFlow CPU Block - Plexi 775/1156/1366/AM3 (copper base not nickel)
> Ive tried everywhere and yes i know it an old model etc, but im putting together another rig and it suits my needs perfectly-i cant even find a good used one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Yeah, I love that block. I use it on my i7-965. Drop dead sexy and works like a champ.

As far as Bitspower fittings in white, you can get them from FrozenCPU.com

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16155/ex-tub-1303/Bitspower_White_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_12_ID_BP-DWWP-C01.html

I use Bitspower fittings exclusively. I prefer the "shinny chrome" look though (hey, I'm a Harley rider).

Talking about SOL, I got ALL the components I need to upgrade "The Betty" from a single D5 pump system with dual RX360 radiators to a dual D5 pump system with triple RX360 radiators, as well as replacing my old Primochill tubing running FluidXP+ with Durelene and distilled water and Mayhem dye, and a 200mm by 60mm reservoir that will mount on top of the EK-D5 Dual Top block (in place of my smaller Danger Den one), and 9 new Gentle Typhoon 1450RPM fans ... EXCEPT the EK-D5 block.









Now all this sweet gear will be staring at me making me Jones until next weekend because the EK-D5 top won't be here until Thursday.


----------



## kcuestag

Just added both GPU's to the loop! It's the first time I ever water cool a graphic card.











I am amazed at how quiet the whole rig is right now with fans at 800-900RPM, even under heavy gaming it's just AMAZING, love it, and the cards stay below 50ºC at all times (Room temperature as high as 34ºC, pretty hot







).


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nice work-well done.
> Simple question: where did you get the white BP fittings?
> *And for the rest of the community, does anyone know where i can pickup a new EK-Supreme HighFlow CPU Block - Plexi 775/1156/1366/AM3 (copper base not nickel)
> Ive tried everywhere and yes i know it an old model etc, but im putting together another rig and it suits my needs perfectly-i cant even find a good used one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


The only ones I've been able to find so far are nickel


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Just added both GPU's to the loop! It's the first time I ever water cool a graphic card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am amazed at how quiet the whole rig is right now with fans at 800-900RPM, even under heavy gaming it's just AMAZING, love it, and the cards stay below 50ºC at all times (Room temperature as high as 34ºC, pretty hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Nice!

Yeah, once you go down the water cooling your video card route, you never want to go back. Makes the whole machine so much more quiet.

My first water cooling build was to get 2 ATI 4870x2 video cards to stop the "Jet Engine" noise that they invariably made while playing games.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nice work-well done.
> Simple question: where did you get the white BP fittings?
> *And for the rest of the community, does anyone know where i can pickup a new EK-Supreme HighFlow CPU Block - Plexi 775/1156/1366/AM3 (copper base not nickel)
> Ive tried everywhere and yes i know it an old model etc, but im putting together another rig and it suits my needs perfectly-i cant even find a good used one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> The only ones I've been able to find so far are nickel
Click to expand...

I am soooooooooooo glad I got my v1 Classified Edition block when I did. Had I waited I might not have such a secsy block now. Copper blocks are sooooooo secsy.









Good luck kkorky, I'll keep an eye peeled in my eBay creep sessions.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lazy Bear

Hey guys, what do you think?


----------



## derickwm

Not a huge fan of those white blocks myself, but if used properly they can pull off a pretty sweet looking rig.


----------



## Ceadderman

Jelly...


















~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

yeah the white block is decent .. love it!


----------



## Lazy Bear

The rig I am putting it in has a red/white deal going on, so it fits. You can check out more in-depth in my build log, which is in my sig.

(please go look at it ;_


----------



## NostraD

Sure thinking that would look real nice in my white Switch!


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Hey guys, what do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is sexy ... hot dang ... ... If I can get a hold of the DT Sniper (white) then I will be going with this block ... ... IF I can still afford the R6500 for a 7970 ... lol


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Hey guys, what do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i think it looks great by itself imo, and with your current build (im subbed btw) it's gonna be freakin awesome. well done.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nice work-well done.
> Simple question: where did you get the white BP fittings?
> *And for the rest of the community, does anyone know where i can pickup a new EK-Supreme HighFlow CPU Block - Plexi 775/1156/1366/AM3 (copper base not nickel)
> Ive tried everywhere and yes i know it an old model etc, but im putting together another rig and it suits my needs perfectly-i cant even find a good used one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Can only find a Acetal Top + Cobber bottom thats in stock .... The Plexi is just gone :-/

Edit: Just found a Plexi top, but it got the Nickel bottom ...


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Hey guys, what do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


awesome!


----------



## Fickle Pickle

So I finished installing this a few weeks ago, running an i5 2500k at 4.3ghz and a HD7970 OC at 1215/1625mhz on an a Raystorm ex240 w/d5 kit + XSPC 7970 Razor Block. Considering that even at 29c ambient my GPU only goes to 46-50c on 100% bf3 load and cpu is at 53c, it's not bad at all. I was going to add another 120mm rad, but I felt the temps were quite adequate.

Here are some quickie cell phone pics!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cord78*
> 
> My memoery is a little fuzzy on it but I am 98% confident I remember a lamptron rep stating that the 1st PC Corp is legit and is an authorized reseller/distributor.
> Quick google search popped this post in 2009 by Tator Tot (Managing Editor of OCN)
> ........


Thanks, that's good to know. So if you get a Lamptron or a 1st PC Corp then you are getting the real deal, and not a copy.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, I love that block. I use it on my i7-965. Drop dead sexy and works like a champ.
> As far as Bitspower fittings in white, you can get them from FrozenCPU.com
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16155/ex-tub-1303/Bitspower_White_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_12_ID_BP-DWWP-C01.html
> I use Bitspower fittings exclusively. I prefer the "shinny chrome" look though (hey, I'm a Harley rider).
> Talking about SOL, I got ALL the components I need to upgrade "The Betty" from a single D5 pump system with dual RX360 radiators to a dual D5 pump system with triple RX360 radiators, as well as replacing my old Primochill tubing running FluidXP+ with Durelene and distilled water and Mayhem dye, and a 200mm by 60mm reservoir that will mount on top of the EK-D5 Dual Top block (in place of my smaller Danger Den one), and 9 new Gentle Typhoon 1450RPM fans ... EXCEPT the EK-D5 block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all this sweet gear will be staring at me making me Jones until next weekend because the EK-D5 top won't be here until Thursday.


mind telling me where you got the duralene? tried to order from sidewinder but max qty is = 3.









thanks.


----------



## Phirebird

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Just added both GPU's to the loop! It's the first time I ever water cool a graphic card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am amazed at how quiet the whole rig is right now with fans at 800-900RPM, even under heavy gaming it's just AMAZING, love it, and the cards stay below 50ºC at all times (Room temperature as high as 34ºC, pretty hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).






LoL my GTX 590 cores are at 40ºC MAX when gaming, and idle at 13ºC. This is with a room at 25-29ºC.


Forgive the MTEC control center, she does not know what the real CPU temp is for some odd reason it reads 32ºC 24/7.

BTW , I just threw another feser 480 at my hot loop, temperatures now heading southerly







. Might be the extra 4x 120mm Scythe Ultra KAZEs I hooked to it.

Before you call BS this is with a hot-cold TEC dual loop which i can't help but keep upgrading >,< it'll never be finished!


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phirebird*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Just added both GPU's to the loop! It's the first time I ever water cool a graphic card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am amazed at how quiet the whole rig is right now with fans at 800-900RPM, even under heavy gaming it's just AMAZING, love it, and the cards stay below 50ºC at all times (Room temperature as high as 34ºC, pretty hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LoL my GTX 590 cores are at 40ºC MAX when gaming, and idle at 13ºC. This is with a room at 25-29ºC.
> 
> 
> Forgive the MTEC control center, she does not know what the real CPU temp is for some odd reason it reads 32ºC 24/7.
> 
> BTW , I just threw another feser 480 at my hot loop, temperatures now heading southerly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Might be the extra 4x 120mm Scythe Ultra KAZEs I hooked to it.
> 
> Before you call BS this is with a hot-cold TEC dual loop which i can't help but keep upgrading >,< it'll never be finished!
Click to expand...

nice, now push the temps even lower


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phirebird*
> 
> LoL my GTX 590 cores are at 40ºC MAX when gaming, and idle at 13ºC. This is with a room at 25-29ºC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive the MTEC control center, she does not know what the real CPU temp is for some odd reason it reads 32ºC 24/7.
> BTW , I just threw another feser 480 at my hot loop, temperatures now heading southerly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Might be the extra 4x 120mm Scythe Ultra KAZEs I hooked to it.
> Before you call BS this is with a hot-cold TEC dual loop which i can't help but keep upgrading >,< it'll never be finished!


no condensation issues when idling at 13C with a room temp of 25-29C?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phirebird*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Just added both GPU's to the loop! It's the first time I ever water cool a graphic card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am amazed at how quiet the whole rig is right now with fans at 800-900RPM, even under heavy gaming it's just AMAZING, love it, and the cards stay below 50ºC at all times (Room temperature as high as 34ºC, pretty hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LoL my GTX 590 cores are at 40ºC MAX when gaming, and idle at 13ºC. This is with a room at 25-29ºC.
> 
> 
> Forgive the MTEC control center, she does not know what the real CPU temp is for some odd reason it reads 32ºC 24/7.
> 
> BTW , I just threw another feser 480 at my hot loop, temperatures now heading southerly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Might be the extra 4x 120mm Scythe Ultra KAZEs I hooked to it.
> 
> Before you call BS this is with a hot-cold TEC dual loop which i can't help but keep upgrading >,< it'll never be finished!
Click to expand...

32C seems correct. How are you getting temps lower than ambient??


----------



## chino1974

Guys I'm in a lil dilema here and was hoping someone here can help me out. First off I know I'm supposed to start a new thread for new questions like this and I did but since it is a water cooling question I figured it wouldn't hurt to also try here hwere I know alot of the guys really know their stuff. Well here goes. I just upgraded my set-up last night from crossfired 6870's to a single 7970 Black Edition card. I will be ordering a full water block for it in the next week or 2 hopefully soner. So in the meantime I just used one of the XSPC Raystorm universal water blocks I was using on the 6870's. Everything went on without any issues no leaks nothing. But I'm getting basically the same temps as if I were on air and maybe even alil higher. It is idling at 35 degrees and maxing out at 71 when my crossfired 6870's were idling at 28-32 and maxing out at between 55-60 tops. I know the unviersal water blocks are not the best way to go but I used what I hand on hand at the time and like I was saying my temps were half this bad with 2 cards running in the loop. I cleaned off the old TIM and added a good amount of fresh TIM but I ran out of the stuff I usually use which isn't the best (Artic Silver 5) but always gave me good temps. I used the XSPC K2 tim that comes with the bloxcks. I did notice that it was abit watery wehen I applied it to the block. And I also added heatsinks to al;l the ram chips and VRMS plus I have a very good amount of airflow going over my gpu's. I have a 120mm rad in the front intake spot on my case (Switch 810) with 2 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm 133 cfm fans in push-pull blowing right over the gpus. I know the air that is going over the gpu's is coming off of the 120 rad first but it is not warm at all and with those 2 fans amount of air I doubt it would heat up much anyways. If anyone can give me alil advice or guidance in this situation from personal past experience it will be greatly apreciated.


----------



## mm67

Are you sure that Raystorm Gpu block fits a 7970, EK and Swiftech universal blocks needed to be modified for it :
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/universal-vga-blocks/universal-vga-blocks-accessories/ek-vga-supreme-hf-hd7970-cu-adapter.html
http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx

That EK plate might work XSPC block also


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Hey guys, what do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks pretty cool...








although sort of looks like a RepRap made the top part of it.lol
but still pretty cool.


----------



## GoodInk

I really hate my pump and will be replacing it soon so I'll also be redoing the piping.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> mind telling me where you got the duralene? tried to order from sidewinder but max qty is = 3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks.


I got it from Sidewinder. Maybe I'm part of the reason why there is only 3 feet left right now. Sorry.

Might want to shoot off an email to customer service and ask when they will get more stock in. I imagine they have that stuff rolling in every week.


----------



## Phirebird

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> nice, now push the temps even lower





You monster.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 32C seems correct. How are you getting temps lower than ambient??





No mate, I have a 3 hour log file playing TF2 at 2560x1440 with 64x mutli gpu AA where its 32C for each minute. "MTEC Control Center" Controls my CoolIt Boreas, a sub-ambient (mostly) TEC radiator.
It was initially designed as : Cyclindrical Heatsink cooling TWELVE TECS in lots of 3, and each lot was cooling a waterblock for a loop. I've taken 6 of the 12 TEC and attached a waterblock to the hot side to watercool the TEC in a separate 3x120 and 4x120 loop.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I'm in a lil dilema here and was hoping someone here can help me out. First off I know I'm supposed to start a new thread for new questions like this and I did but since it is a water cooling question I figured it wouldn't hurt to also try here hwere I know alot of the guys really know their stuff. Well here goes. I just upgraded my set-up last night from crossfired 6870's to a single 7970 Black Edition card. I will be ordering a full water block for it in the next week or 2 hopefully soner. So in the meantime I just used one of the XSPC Raystorm universal water blocks I was using on the 6870's. Everything went on without any issues no leaks nothing. But I'm getting basically the same temps as if I were on air and maybe even alil higher. It is idling at 35 degrees and maxing out at 71 when my crossfired 6870's were idling at 28-32 and maxing out at between 55-60 tops. I know the unviersal water blocks are not the best way to go but I used what I hand on hand at the time and like I was saying my temps were half this bad with 2 cards running in the loop. I cleaned off the old TIM and added a good amount of fresh TIM but I ran out of the stuff I usually use which isn't the best (Artic Silver 5) but always gave me good temps. I used the XSPC K2 tim that comes with the bloxcks. I did notice that it was abit watery wehen I applied it to the block. And I also added heatsinks to al;l the ram chips and VRMS plus I have a very good amount of airflow going over my gpu's. I have a 120mm rad in the front intake spot on my case (Switch 810) with 2 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm 133 cfm fans in push-pull blowing right over the gpus. I know the air that is going over the gpu's is coming off of the 120 rad first but it is not warm at all and with those 2 fans amount of air I doubt it would heat up much anyways. If anyone can give me alil advice or guidance in this situation from personal past experience it will be greatly apreciated.






Great spacing. Had to search for it. Is that just a single 120 Rad cooling over 300w? Get some SAN DENKE fans on that rad. I have three now









Are you trolling or something?


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> So I finished installing this a few weeks ago, running an i5 2500k at 4.3ghz and a HD7970 OC at 1215/1625mhz on an a Raystorm ex240 w/d5 kit + XSPC 7970 Razor Block. Considering that even at 29c ambient my GPU only goes to 46-50c on 100% bf3 load and cpu is at 53c, it's not bad at all. I was going to add another 120mm rad, but I felt the temps were quite adequate.
> Here are some quickie cell phone pics!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very good! Glad to see someone else using the XSPC Dual bay - I thought I was all alone on that one! The only thing that bothers me about my XSPC X20 750, is that the Mayhems Aurora line of coolant doesn't work in it. The pearl falls out of circulation after a while and stays in your res.










Nice build, I like it! Clean and simple!


----------



## Willhemmens

NostraD, I like your sig but, I'd say the best overclockers do it under 0C!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> NostraD, I like your sig but, I'd say the best overclockers do it under 0C!


Truth be told, the *BEST* overclockers do it under *Helium*! LOL (AMD World Record OC 8.429GHz on FX-8150).


----------



## NostraD

Will,
is that Mayhem's pastel green in your sig rig? Also, what tubing are you using with it?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Truth be told, the *BEST* overclockers do it under *Helium*! LOL (AMD World Record OC 8.429GHz on FX-8150).


Yes, under 0C.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Will,
> is that Mayhem's pastel green in your sig rig? Also, what tubing are you using with it?


No, it's Extinction Green Aurora. I'm using XSPC 3/8" ID - 5/8" OD (10-16mm) High Flex Clear Tubing.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I got it from Sidewinder. Maybe I'm part of the reason why there is only 3 feet left right now. Sorry.
> Might want to shoot off an email to customer service and ask when they will get more stock in. I imagine they have that stuff rolling in every week.


i was thinking that. you have enough to last you a lifetime. lol.

i'll give them a call, thanks. can't wait to see your final product.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Yes, under 0C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, it's Extinction Green Aurora. I'm using XSPC 3/8" ID - 5/8" OD (10-16mm) High Flex Clear Tubing.


Looks incredible. I currently have a blue theme working in my Switch - but I have to say I love the look of that green! How long have you had that set-up? Does the coolant hold it's color and does the XSPC tubing maintain it's visibility? I have tried a number of other coolants/dyes...so far, they all fade. I keep reading posts about plasticizing, but I haven't had a coolant/dye that stayed it's true color long enough to matter. With the dyes I use distilled water and a kill coil...they fade. With the premixed coolants just the kill coil...they fade. I'll post some pics here in a bit of my latest attempts: Primochill Blood Red dye bomb in my folding rig, and Primochill Blue Steel in my Sig Rig.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Just finished my 650D build last night. Hope you guys like










Spoiler: Pictures


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Just finished my 650D build last night. Hope you guys like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures


looks great! if you have anymore of that carbon fiber type tape you should do the gpu backplate and the psu


----------



## NostraD

The first pics of my folding rig are 3/8 x 1/2 clear PVC tubing from FrozenCPU. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2121/ex-mis-01/38_ID_-_12OD_PVC_Clear_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s171
It has the Primochill Blood red dye bomb (x1), distilled water and a kill coil. Its a small loop with XSPC X20 Single bay pump/res, 120mm rad, cooling my GPU ONLY.
You can see from the pictures, the tubing is still quite clear. You can easily see wires and other parts through the tubing in some areas. You can also see that the Blood Red has now turned Tea-colored?
[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1037743/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]





In my sig rig, the results aren't as dramatic, but the color has faded. It's hard to tell with the tubing I have. This loop has fiber reinforced PVC (3/8" x 5/8") from Home Depot. It is plasticizing a bit, but the fibers also obstruct the view somewhat, so I included pics of the res, with and without a flash. This loop is a little bigger with XSPC X20 750 Dual bay res/pump, CPU and GPU blocks, and a 3.120mm rad.
This loop has Primochills Blue Steel dye bomb added to distilled and a kill coil. I actually added a second dye bomb approx. a week later. With 2 dye bombs, it has upheld a bit better, but still fading fast.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Dye bombs were added 9 weeks ago.


----------



## tipgo

Back again. After a long hiatus. With a new project in a Lian Li A 20 and Evga x58 classified


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> Back again. After a long hiatus. With a new project in a Lian Li A 20 and Evga x58 classified










I want more pictures please.


----------



## tipgo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want more pictures please.


Take a look here. I have not closed the project
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.361628150572412.81513.100001756915471&type=1


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> Take a look here. I have not closed the project
> http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.361628150572412.81513.100001756915471&type=1


Says page is unavailable!







So sad...nice rig though


----------



## tipgo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Says page is unavailable!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So sad...nice rig though


Yes, to do this particular job


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> looks great! if you have anymore of that carbon fiber type tape you should do the gpu backplate and the psu


Thanks! I have a lot more of the carbon fiber stuff, thought about doing the backplate and PSU but didn't wanna ruin any warranties. I did the rad too, but sadly you can't really see it the way I have the fans set up. Here's a picture of it though.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Covering with the Carbon Tape should not ruin your warranty for the PSU Mr. Smurf unless you take off the warranty sticker.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I'm in a lil dilema here and was hoping someone here can help me out. First off I know I'm supposed to start a new thread for new questions like this and I did but since it is a water cooling question I figured it wouldn't hurt to also try here hwere I know alot of the guys really know their stuff. Well here goes. I just upgraded my set-up last night from crossfired 6870's to a single 7970 Black Edition card. I will be ordering a full water block for it in the next week or 2 hopefully soner. So in the meantime I just used one of the XSPC Raystorm universal water blocks I was using on the 6870's. Everything went on without any issues no leaks nothing. But I'm getting basically the same temps as if I were on air and maybe even alil higher. It is idling at 35 degrees and maxing out at 71 when my crossfired 6870's were idling at 28-32 and maxing out at between 55-60 tops. I know the unviersal water blocks are not the best way to go but I used what I hand on hand at the time and like I was saying my temps were half this bad with 2 cards running in the loop. I cleaned off the old TIM and added a good amount of fresh TIM but I ran out of the stuff I usually use which isn't the best (Artic Silver 5) but always gave me good temps. I used the XSPC K2 tim that comes with the bloxcks. I did notice that it was abit watery wehen I applied it to the block. And I also added heatsinks to al;l the ram chips and VRMS plus I have a very good amount of airflow going over my gpu's. I have a 120mm rad in the front intake spot on my case (Switch 810) with 2 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm 133 cfm fans in push-pull blowing right over the gpus. I know the air that is going over the gpu's is coming off of the 120 rad first but it is not warm at all and with those 2 fans amount of air I doubt it would heat up much anyways. If anyone can give me alil advice or guidance in this situation from personal past experience it will be greatly apreciated.


Replace the TIM. When in down replace and re-seat. If you need TIM, I have some check my sig. The last tube I sent out took 2 days so I figure you'll have it by Wednesday at the latest if everything goes smoothly.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> Back again. After a long hiatus. With a new project in a Lian Li A 20 and Evga x58 classified
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That system is BAWS like a dog.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Looks pretty cool...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although sort of looks like a RepRap made the top part of it.lol
> but still pretty cool.


What do you mean by that? What's a RepRap?


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ Covering with the Carbon Tape should not ruin your warranty for the PSU Mr. Smurf unless you take off the warranty sticker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replace the TIM. When in down replace and re-seat. If you need TIM, I have some check my sig. The last tube I sent out took 2 days so I figure you'll have it by Wednesday at the latest if everything goes smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That system is BAWS like a dog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks brother. Yeah after alil more research and reading I figured it out. I guess the metal frame around the chip on the 7970's sits higher than the chip itself. So you need to use a copper shim with certain blocks to get them to make full contact. Swiftech makes their universal blocks with a raised square in the center of the block to eliminate the need for the shim. I wish I knew that when I ordered the GPU I would've also ordered a shim for it. When I bought the Raystorm GPU blocks I was using them on a set of 6870's and wasn't planning on upgrading just yet. And like always about 2 weeks after that I decide to upgrade to the 7970 on an impulse and thought I could jus throw one of my uni's on it till I could get a full block. That's what happens when you don't do you research beforehand.









Another question would anyone here know if the tim that XPSC send with their Raystorm blocks is any good ? It is call XSPC K2 tim. I could've sworn I read somewhere that is was pretty good but I might be mistaken like most of the time! Lol!


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> What do you mean by that? What's a RepRap?


3d printing machine.
sort of like CNC in a way but not.
it creates and replicates 3d objects.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uII9-29U_oQ
you could make your own blocks..lol
i'm actually buying one and trying to convince some of
my tool and die, CNC and EDM friends to make me copper bottom/heat
sinks and i'm going to reprap the tops..


----------



## FlighterPilot

Here's mine! (cards are 580's now though)


----------



## steelkevin

I really need HELP:

I've got a 60mm thick Cylinder reservoir (with 60mm EK stands/clips) but the top doesn't have a thread which is really a nuisance for the kind of loop I'm going to have. Not having a hole up there would mean somehow connecting a rad above the top to the bottom of the reservoir which would not only look bad but lower the loop's flow. Here's a picture of it:


Would it be a good idea to spend around 8€ on a *EK-Multioption RES X2 - TOP W/thread* ?
I mean how different can two 60mm thick cylinder reservoirs be ? Manufacturers probably use the same tools/machines to thread them, right ?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> i was thinking that. you have enough to last you a lifetime. lol.
> i'll give them a call, thanks. can't wait to see your final product.


Actually, I ordered 25 feet of it. Not because I need a lot in my case of my external rad stand, but because I use 2 10 foot tubes between my case and my rad stand. I have a pass thru between my office and another room where I keep my rad stand (and pumps, reservoir, fans, etc) and pass the 2 tubes and the power from my PSU to the rad stand (for pump and fans) between the two rooms.

This allows me to keep my computer completely silent and cool ... as all the noise and heat is in another room.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> Back again. After a long hiatus. With a new project in a Lian Li A 20 and Evga x58 classified
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i MUST see moar pics!!!


----------



## bomberjun

Leaktesting...




The coolant should be an icedragon butI wasnt able to get one so I used my reserved coolant which is an EK blood red. Yet I will replace it with White soon... should I?


----------



## ranger82

What did you do to mod your 800D to accept a rad @ the bottom??? Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranger82*
> 
> What did you do to mod your 800D to accept a rad @ the bottom??? Thanks


It's got TWO 360s' in the bottom.









~Ceadder


----------



## bomberjun

@ranger

check my spoiler..










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> *dual 360s at the bottom with a long power supply like the AX1200 wont fit!!!*
> Its impossible to do it because the 3rd radiator hits the psu wire cables. But it is possible for shorter power supplies and if you use a power supply extender.
> 
> 
> But I went to plan B.. which is a 360+240 radiator at the bottom cage because I dont want to use any powersupply extenders.
> 
> 
> 
> now im back on tract after that minor setback.






Sorry Ceader.. My plan A with dual 360s didnt work..









So I went to plan B with 360+240 just to make some space with the psu headers.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> *dual 360s at the bottom with a long power supply like the AX1200 wont fit!!!*
> Its impossible to do it because the 3rd radiator hits the psu wire cables. But it is possible for shorter power supplies and if you use a power supply extender.
> 
> 
> But I went to plan B.. which is a 360+240 radiator at the bottom cage because I dont want to use any powersupply extenders.
> 
> 
> 
> now im back on tract after that minor setback.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Ceader.. My plan A with dual 360s didnt work..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to plan B with 360+240 just to make some space with the psu headers.
Click to expand...

Why didn't it work? Did you try to connect the two with T blocks and male/male fittings with a barb in the middle? As far as I knew it was sposed to be dual. You showed dual dual dual dual dual. I demand DUAL.









Too bad tho. You may still be able to do it, cause that would be epic.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Sorry Ceader.. My plan A with dual 360s didnt work..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to plan B with 360+240 just to make some space with the psu headers.


damn thats a tight squeeze lol - rig looks amazing, you did a fantastic job


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why didn't it work? Did you try to connect the two with T blocks and male/male fittings with a barb in the middle? As far as I knew it was sposed to be dual. You showed dual dual dual dual dual. I demand DUAL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad tho. You may still be able to do it, cause that would be epic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


As much as I wanted to go dual 360s at the bottom cage .. I just cant. Unless I would go for a shorter powersupply.









and my thumb really hurts... damn tight fittings.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> The coolant should be an icedragon butI wasnt able to get one so I used my reserved coolant which is an EK blood red. Yet I will replace it with White soon... should I?


White coolant would look divine in that build... it'd match your sleeving job better than the red as well.


----------



## simonfredette

where do people usually buy the di-noc carbon fibre stuff , I need to by some white tape like that for my rads and psu .. I thought about doing my EK bridge too but I kind of like the EK symbol on it though , maybe di-noc it white and paint the symbol in black ?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> where do people usually buy the di-noc carbon fibre stuff , I need to by some white tape like that for my rads and psu .. I thought about doing my EK bridge too but I kind of like the EK symbol on it though , maybe di-noc it white and paint the symbol in black ?


MNPC-Tech is a popular PC Modding store. I got mine for far cheaper from some place on Amazon called Metro Restyling (2 sq. feet for $5 + $4 shipping vs. $15/sq. ft. at MNPC-Tech) and I happen to love it. A few crappy pics:


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlighterPilot*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Full cover blocks w/ white tubing and bitfenix white cable's to the 580's... it'll be


----------



## protzman

Quick: cleaning my nickel CPU block. What to use?
thx


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> MNPC-Tech is a popular PC Modding store. I got mine for far cheaper from some place on Amazon called Metro Restyling (2 sq. feet for $5 + $4 shipping vs. $15/sq. ft. at MNPC-Tech) and I happen to love it. A few crappy pics:


no man that looks great , ill check amazon for sure , I want to go white but its good to see that the final product works !


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> no man that looks great , ill check amazon for sure , I want to go white but its good to see that the final product works !


Wow, I never thought about getting white carbon-fiber vinyl... that would look crazy.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quick: cleaning my nickel CPU block. What to use?
> thx


Either Ketchup or Vinegar will do. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly with Distilled after cleaning. For plexi I recommend Baking Soda, Distilled, Vinegar and Lime Juice. Again rinse well with straight distilled afterward.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Can only find a Acetal Top + Cobber bottom thats in stock .... The Plexi is just gone :-/
> Edit: Just found a Plexi top, but it got the Nickel bottom ...


Thanks a lot for your effort (+1rep)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, I love that block. I use it on my i7-965. Drop dead sexy and works like a champ.
> As far as Bitspower fittings in white, you can get them from FrozenCPU.com
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16155/ex-tub-1303/Bitspower_White_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_12_ID_BP-DWWP-C01.html
> I use Bitspower fittings exclusively. I prefer the "shinny chrome" look though (hey, I'm a Harley rider).
> Talking about SOL, I got ALL the components I need to upgrade "The Betty" from a single D5 pump system with dual RX360 radiators to a dual D5 pump system with triple RX360 radiators, as well as replacing my old Primochill tubing running FluidXP+ with Durelene and distilled water and Mayhem dye, and a 200mm by 60mm reservoir that will mount on top of the EK-D5 Dual Top block (in place of my smaller Danger Den one), and 9 new Gentle Typhoon 1450RPM fans ... EXCEPT the EK-D5 block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all this sweet gear will be staring at me making me Jones until next weekend because the EK-D5 top won't be here until Thursday.


Thanks for the link brother (+1 rep), with regards to the shinny BP fittings, my system is all matte black with blue bits on the mobo etc so id go for matte black BP fittings personally, the white ones are for my wife's rig









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> The only ones I've been able to find so far are nickel


At least you tried, that counts in my book (+1 rep)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am soooooooooooo glad I got my v1 Classified Edition block when I did. Had I waited I might not have such a secsy block now. Copper blocks are sooooooo secsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck kkorky, I'll keep an eye peeled in my eBay creep sessions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I thank you squire, and if you do happen to create a miracle shoot me a PM please-thanks in advance








Im embarrassed giving you this, cause you are already flush with rep mate, but you tried to help and that's what counts (+1 rep)

And so i don't get any dumba** posts about me handing out rep like smarties, allow me to explain-my method is simple, any effort made by a fellow forum member to help me deserves rep, done!
Now if i could only get the bunch of people that i have helped to do the same, things would be perfect in good ole' OC land lol.


----------



## kkorky

Ok next item on the agenda knowledgeable folks out there:

I'm thinking of painting in the letters & numbers on my GTX 580 Backplate for effect (florescent blue for example, it would match the sleeving, dye etc), the heart of the matter is that i'm crap at small jobs like that, and im sure that id get paint all over the back plate. Any suggestions? I have googled the topic, but to no avail.

GTX 580 Back plate:


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Thanks a lot for your effort (+1rep)
> .


Thanks







.... What about using the EK Water Blocks EK-Supreme LTX - Plexi ?

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p11609_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supreme-LTX---Plexi--775-1156-1155-1oe-2011-.html

Here is the EK Water Blocks EK-Supreme HF Acetal - 1 in stock

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p8201_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supreme-HF-Acetal--775-1156-1155-1oe-2011-AM2-AM3-939-XEON-.html


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Ok next item on the agenda knowledgeable folks out there:
> I'm thinking of painting in the letters & numbers on my GTX 580 Backplate for effect (florescent blue for example, it would match the sleeving, dye etc), the heart of the matter is that i'm crap at small jobs like that, and im sure that id get paint all over the back plate. Any suggestions? I have googled the topic, but to no avail.
> GTX 580 Back plate:


Get some paint that you can make really thin (Is paint thinner the right word ?) + a needle



Then just place it on a really flat surface, and place the needle in the letters, and let it slowly fill up

(Not good at english, so hard to explain - Get the idea ?)


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... What about using the EK Water Blocks EK-Supreme LTX - Plexi ?
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p11609_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supreme-LTX---Plexi--775-1156-1155-1oe-2011-.html
> Here is the EK Water Blocks EK-Supreme HF Acetal - 1 in stock
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p8201_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supreme-HF-Acetal--775-1156-1155-1oe-2011-AM2-AM3-939-XEON-.html


Hi again, yes, ive looked at the LTX block, but i don't like the fact that its mount is plexi -too much to go wrong there, secondly, as Ceaderdude (lol) says, the HF supreme is a great block performance wise, and is much better than the LTX. Im using a Raystorm atm, so i don't want to take a step too far back.
*
EDIT:*

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/18/i7-3930k-cpu-ek-supreme-ltx/

"without a center nozzle plate, without the metal hold down plate, and without some of the premium accessories like back-plates"

Its amazing that a block was provided









AS for aquatuning, they charge way too much imho compared to the other UK dealers, not to mention US dealers (minus the shipping costs ofc, mind you sometimes EU shipping costs are ridiculous, especially when posted from Germany)


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Get some paint that you can make really thin (Is paint thinner the right word ?) + a needle
> 
> Then just place it on a really flat surface, and place the needle in the letters, and let it slowly fill up
> (Not good at english, so hard to explain - Get the idea ?)


LOL! so simple, yet beyond my Neanderthal scope of thinking-yes i understood you fine









(+1 rep)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Ok next item on the agenda knowledgeable folks out there:
> I'm thinking of painting in the letters & numbers on my GTX 580 Backplate for effect (florescent blue for example, it would match the sleeving, dye etc), the heart of the matter is that i'm crap at small jobs like that, and im sure that id get paint all over the back plate. Any suggestions? I have googled the topic, but to no avail.
> GTX 580 Back plate:


Use a fine tipped paint pen.
Just wipe any over run with a damp cloth.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> LOL! so simple, yet beyond my Neanderthal scope of thinking-yes i understood you fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (+1 rep)


Thanks again







- Remember to show the result


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Use a fine tipped paint pen.
> Just wipe any over run with a damp cloth.


Another fine idea -tyvm. Now if i can only find one where im stationed atm, such every day Do-it-youself items are hard to come across in my neck of the woods (Northern Greece)

(+1 rep)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Use a fine tipped paint pen.
> Just wipe any over run with a damp cloth.
> 
> 
> 
> Another fine idea -tyvm. Now if i can only find one where im stationed atm, such every day Do-it-youself items are hard to come across in my neck of the woods (Northern Greece)
> 
> (+1 rep)
Click to expand...

Check the base exchange for White Laundry Markers kkorky. They were everywhere when I served. Of course they were commonly used for graffiti but the nice thing about them is the end plug was able to intake air to pressurize the paint to get it to the tip. They worked quite well and had a felt tip like a regular pen. We used them on our Dress Blues to keep our Unis squared away for return. You had to follow up with them every 3 or 4 goes through the Dry Cleaning but seeing as how you won't be dry cleaning that plate I figure it should hold up quite well.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

How thin is the copper bottom in a modern fullcover block ? - Is thinking on the thicknes from the bottom of the channels to the core (Hope you can see what I mean)

I think its around 2-3mm, but really dont know ...


----------



## morencyam

Does anyone have any experience making their own waterblock? I've been looking into getting a mobo block made for my Sabertooth x58. I found someone on another forum that made a NB/SB and VRM waterblock for a customers Sabertooth and would like to do something similar. The NB now gets extremely hot to the touch. I can't leave my finger on it for more than 5 seconds without it starting to burn a little. The block itself doesn't have to be anything special with a crazy flow pattern and thousands of micropins or anything of the like. I just want something relatively aesthetically pleasing that will drop temps a little bit. Below is the only picture of the blocks I found not mounted to the mobo, and a picture of them mounted. I would probably try to make the tops out of acetal or delrin, but that it essentially all I'm really going for


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Thanks a lot for your effort (+1rep)
> .


Have been searcing some more, and can only find the Acetal + Cobber and Plexi + Nickel in stock ... But I found the Plexi top alone (Also green and red acrylic top) - So you could buy the Acetal + Cobber and the plexi top alone and mount ? (Will cost a lot) ...

*EK-Supreme HF - TOP Plexi*

http://www.highflow.nl/water-blocks/cpu-blocks/toebehoren-backplates-mounting-kits-etc/ek-supreme-hf-top-plexi.html

*Green and red top:*

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/block-spare-parts/tops/plexi-acrylic/cpu.html

And the Nickel/Plexi

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supreme-HF-EN-NickelPlexi-775-1156-1366-AM2-AM3_1374.html


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Have been searcing some more, and can only find the Acetal + Cobber and Plexi + Nickel in stock ... But I found the Plexi top alone (Also green and red acrylic top) - So you could buy the Acetal + Cobber and the plexi top alone and mount ? (Will cost a lot) ...
> *EK-Supreme HF - TOP Plexi*
> http://www.highflow.nl/water-blocks/cpu-blocks/toebehoren-backplates-mounting-kits-etc/ek-supreme-hf-top-plexi.html
> *Green and red top:*
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/block-spare-parts/tops/plexi-acrylic/cpu.html
> And the Nickel/Plexi
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supreme-HF-EN-NickelPlexi-775-1156-1366-AM2-AM3_1374.html


That might actually work-the acetal top that i replace could always be sitting around should an emergency arise.

20 euro for the plexi top (they know they are in demand, so they have upped the price)

I made a mistake, could you please link the acetal/copper hf supreme block? thanks in advance, i was looking at the supremacy by mistake


----------



## MillerModPCs

My First Water cooling build "Nebula Blue" enjoy. Also please check out my youtube for the build and other helpful vids thanks

http://www.youtube.com/user/Famoussasdrummer182?feature=CAQQwRs%3D


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerModPCs*
> 
> My First Water cooling build "Nebula Blue" enjoy. Also please check out my youtube for the build and other helpful vids thanks
> http://www.youtube.com/user/Famoussasdrummer182?feature=CAQQwRs%3D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is there a kink in the tube between the VRM and CPU blocks?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Thanks a lot for your effort (+1rep)
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Have been searcing some more, and can only find the Acetal + Cobber and Plexi + Nickel in stock ... But I found the Plexi top alone (Also green and red acrylic top) - So you could buy the Acetal + Cobber and the plexi top alone and mount ? (Will cost a lot) ...
> 
> *EK-Supreme HF - TOP Plexi*
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/water-blocks/cpu-blocks/toebehoren-backplates-mounting-kits-etc/ek-supreme-hf-top-plexi.html
> 
> *Green and red top:*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/block-spare-parts/tops/plexi-acrylic/cpu.html
> 
> And the Nickel/Plexi
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supreme-HF-EN-NickelPlexi-775-1156-1366-AM2-AM3_1374.html
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Have been searcing some more, and can only find the Acetal + Cobber and Plexi + Nickel in stock ... But I found the Plexi top alone (Also green and red acrylic top) - So you could buy the Acetal + Cobber and the plexi top alone and mount ? (Will cost a lot) ...
> *EK-Supreme HF - TOP Plexi*
> http://www.highflow.nl/water-blocks/cpu-blocks/toebehoren-backplates-mounting-kits-etc/ek-supreme-hf-top-plexi.html
> *Green and red top:*
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/block-spare-parts/tops/plexi-acrylic/cpu.html
> And the Nickel/Plexi
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supreme-HF-EN-NickelPlexi-775-1156-1366-AM2-AM3_1374.html
> 
> 
> 
> That might actually work-the acetal top that i replace could always be sitting around should an emergency arise.
> 
> 20 euro for the plexi top (they know they are in demand, so they have upped the price)
> 
> I made a mistake, could you please link the acetal/copper hf supreme block? thanks in advance, i was looking at the supremacy by mistake
Click to expand...

The Red is HF Supreme v1.

Also if I remember this conversation clearly, kkorky wants Copper of either version. Not just the top but the whole Enchilada.









Still looking kkorky.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry for the double Post but ...

FOUND IT!!!!!























$60 buy it now option with 15 hours left on the eBay listing.

Nickel Hardware, Copper plate, Acetal Top.

EK Supreme HF v1 

Hope you get at this soon kkorky it's not due to last long. EK has the Red top should you wish to change it too.









And should you a mind to get a Black Intel Bracket I can hook you up if you can't find one since cool AMD.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nice work-well done.
> Simple question: where did you get the white BP fittings?
> *And for the rest of the community, does anyone know where i can pickup a new EK-Supreme HighFlow CPU Block - Plexi 775/1156/1366/AM3 (copper base not nickel)
> Ive tried everywhere and yes i know it an old model etc, but im putting together another rig and it suits my needs perfectly-i cant even find a good used one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


He is looking for the EK Supreme HF Cobber / Plexi and you found a EK Supreme (Not HF) Cobber / Acetal ?

Already found him a EK Supreme HF Cobber / Acetal and a Plexi Top that he can mount







.... A new Supreme HF Cobber / Plexi is just very hard to get, but this way he can build it


----------



## Ceadderman

Well the info is there and it's cheap. Can't beat having options. Should he want an Acrylic top for the one I pointed out of for the one you pointed out. If he wants Red EK has it. Should it be Blue or Green then he'll likely want the v2 block. Win/Win and more Win!









~Ceadder


----------



## InitialDriveGTR




----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*






A RADIATOR!!! lol.
This my good man is one of my favourite builds ever


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience making their own waterblock? I've been looking into getting a mobo block made for my Sabertooth x58. I found someone on another forum that made a NB/SB and VRM waterblock for a customers Sabertooth and would like to do something similar. The NB now gets extremely hot to the touch. I can't leave my finger on it for more than 5 seconds without it starting to burn a little. The block itself doesn't have to be anything special with a crazy flow pattern and thousands of micropins or anything of the like. I just want something relatively aesthetically pleasing that will drop temps a little bit. Below is the only picture of the blocks I found not mounted to the mobo, and a picture of them mounted. I would probably try to make the tops out of acetal or delrin, but that it essentially all I'm really going for


Nateman_doo is the perennial expert around these parts


----------



## InsideJob

Hey guys, just thought I'd upload an updated pic of my build. I'm not custom looped yet and have yet to wet the GPU but when I can afford it, it'll happen. Anyways hope you guys like it









http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1295271


----------



## tipgo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> i MUST see moar pics!!!


This project has not yet closed. Are updated in the final. But according to the link.

Project 2nd Anniversary Lian Li Club in Thailand


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Nateman_doo is the perennial expert around these parts


This ^^

He did some nice SR2 mobo blocks which I would of got if I didn't get my MIPS block...


----------



## bomberjun

Awsome build tigpo!! That's watercooling at the highest level! Especially that top passthrough. damn.... BEAUTIFUL!









passed 12hours leaktest. with open res.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> This project has not yet closed. Are updated in the final. But according to the link.
> Project 2nd Anniversary Lian Li Club in Thailand
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pure Art ... that is a gorgeous build ...

What blocks are u using on the memory ?...

+Rep


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> This project has not yet closed. Are updated in the final. But according to the link.
> Project 2nd Anniversary Lian Li Club in Thailand
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pure Art ... that is a gorgeous build ...
> 
> What blocks are u using on the memory ?...
> 
> +Rep
Click to expand...

Looks like Koolance RAM coolers with U Connectors.

I could be wrong of course but that's what they look like to me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like Koolance RAM coolers with U Connectors.
> I could be wrong of course but that's what they look like to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am starting 2 believe that most of the posters in here know every WC product out there ... lol ...


----------



## derickwm

That's what they are









Emissary: after doing it long enough you start to recognize _all_ the different styles.

Minor update:

































More pics in log.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Damn derry that is simply BALLS!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like Koolance RAM coolers with U Connectors.
> I could be wrong of course but that's what they look like to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am starting 2 believe that most of the posters in here know every WC product out there ... lol ...
Click to expand...









Most of the Coolers here probably did a TON of research before they built their first loop. I'm still on my fist custom loop and still doin research.







hehe

~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I am starting 2 believe that most of the posters in here know every WC product out there ... lol ...


hahah yeah plenty of this around


----------



## bomberjun

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's what they are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emissary: after doing it long enough you start to recognize _all_ the different styles.
> Minor update:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics in log.






Just realized Black, Orange and Blue blends very well!!!


----------



## steelkevin

I was thinking, isn't the first point of cylinder reservoirs to be air traps ? Does having the liquid come through the top and exit through the bottom not cancel that "effect" ?
I'm thinking that with the top rad being the highest part in the loop and the reservoir receiving water through the top the top radiator would become the "air trap". How would I get rid of that air ?


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Actually, I ordered 25 feet of it. Not because I need a lot in my case of my external rad stand, but because I use 2 10 foot tubes between my case and my rad stand. I have a pass thru between my office and another room where I keep my rad stand (and pumps, reservoir, fans, etc) and pass the 2 tubes and the power from my PSU to the rad stand (for pump and fans) between the two rooms.
> This allows me to keep my computer completely silent and cool ... as all the noise and heat is in another room.


i guess your rig will be sort of permanent in one place. have you ever thought of using quick disconnects?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This project has not yet closed. Are updated in the final. But according to the link.
> Project 2nd Anniversary Lian Li Club in Thailand


I don't think there is any drool left in my mouth after seeing this build...

Your Facebook link doesn't work for me...shows me "this content is unavailable" error.

And, yes, those are Koolance ramblocks with 180 connectors.


----------



## tech99

Yesterday I completed creating my first ever WC loop for my sig rig. It's not a new build since most of the components of the rig are more than 3 years old. But nevertheless it continues to serve me well.

Here are the components for the loop.

Swiftech MCP35X.

XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic Reservoir.

Alphacool Nexxxos UT60 360mm Radiator.

XSPC Raystorm.

Heatkiller GPU-X3 680 LT.

Feser Active UV Tubing (3/8 x 1/2)

Monsoon Compression Fittings.

Enermax Apollish Vegas 120mm.


More pics..


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> i guess your rig will be sort of permanent in one place. have you ever thought of using quick disconnects?


I do. I have QDC's on the external radiator stand and QDC's on the computer case.

This will allow me to disconnect any of the 3 major components and service them without having to drain the other 2 (computer, interconnecting tubes, cooler).


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> This project has not yet closed. Are updated in the final. But according to the link.
> Project 2nd Anniversary Lian Li Club in Thailand
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not even really sure what is going on there but its awesome!


----------



## KaRLiToS

The last 30 Posts are full of awsomness. Good job everyone. ALL


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> LOL! so simple, yet beyond my Neanderthal scope of thinking-yes i understood you fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (+1 rep)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Use a fine tipped paint pen.
> Just wipe any over run with a damp cloth.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Another fine idea -tyvm. Now if i can only find one where im stationed atm, such every day Do-it-youself items are hard to come across in my neck of the woods (Northern Greece)
> (+1 rep)


The most simple solution is go buy some acrylic nail polish, and use the little itty bitty brush to fill in the engraving. Then wipe away excess with nail polish remover.
Probably significantly cheaper than finding a syringe, or buying a fine tip paint pen(which are hard to find).


----------



## Fonne

*Fully Modular All-Fitting Watercooling*












Not mine, just say it on XS


----------



## Emissary of Pain

That looks brilliant ! ... ... What connectors do you use between compression fittings ? ...


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> *Not mine, just say it on XS*










.. Here is his thread :

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?282798-Fully-Modular-All-Fitting-Watercooling-w-Extreme-Hardware-in-a-Modified-60-Case


----------



## Willhemmens

I'm sorry but I'm not liking that look at all. I mean what's the point? Also the CPU to RAM connection is just stupid, now you can't access your top PCIE slot.


----------



## DevilsNight

Add me in plz!


----------



## samoth777

Hello OCN Watercoolers

I plan on making my very first loop and am doing some research on parts.








I am curious about Universal GPU Waterblocks http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/universal-vga-blocks/ek-vga-supreme-hf-bridge-edition-acetal.html

Are they safe? Is it OK to expose the RAM and the VRMs and all that other stuff without any cover?

I am using a Asus GTX 680 DCII with a modified bios that has 1.212v voltage instead of the standard 1.175v.


----------



## RatDog

Spoiler: Quote Fonne



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *Fully Modular All-Fitting Watercooling*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not mine, just say it on XS


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> That looks brilliant ! ... ... What connectors do you use between compression fittings ? ...






I am not following this at all. You have a massive dual rad loop that is all hooked together with fittings, you only cool the RAM, Mobo, and CPU which would not require a single 360 much less two. You don't bother with the GPU and running a 295.

IMO I would have saved the money on fittings and gotten a bigger case that could house those rads. I guess it is an interesting experiment but it looks rather frankin-case to me.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Hello OCN Watercoolers
> I plan on making my very first loop and am doing some research on parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am curious about Universal GPU Waterblocks http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/universal-vga-blocks/ek-vga-supreme-hf-bridge-edition-acetal.html
> Are they safe? Is it OK to expose the RAM and the VRMs and all that other stuff without any cover?
> I am using a Asus GTX 680 DCII with a modified bios that has 1.212v voltage instead of the standard 1.175v.


You need to put little heatsinks on the RAM chips and power delivery components if you plan to go universal. Its reletively easy, but not doing it could mean a fried card


----------



## DevilsNight

Universal GPU water blocks are safe but you will still need some kind of heatsinks on your memory and vrm if your not using a full cover block that cools those components.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilsNight*
> 
> Universal GPU water blocks are safe but you will still need some kind of heatsinks on your memory and vrm if your not using a full cover block that cools those components.


Hmmm... This is what the PCB looks like.



So I have to put tiny heatsinks on those 7 memory chips around the GPU? Do I put thermal paste between the chip and the mini-heatsinks?

Is that long black thing running across the PCB a heatsink for the VRM? Should I leave that as it is?

Is there any other area I should put heatsinks on?

Thanks guys


----------



## Fonne

Hope they will make a 140mm AX RAD









http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ax-120mm-series-radiators/


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> I'm sorry but I'm not liking that look at all. I mean what's the point? Also the CPU to RAM connection is just stupid, now you can't access your top PCIE slot.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> I am not following this at all. You have a massive dual rad loop that is all hooked together with fittings, you only cool the RAM, Mobo, and CPU which would not require a single 360 much less two. You don't bother with the GPU and running a 295.
> IMO I would have saved the money on fittings and gotten a bigger case that could house those rads. I guess it is an interesting experiment but it looks rather frankin-case to me.


I completely agree. I don't like the look of that at all. So much money spent on fittings and adapters. And how often is he switching out components that he needs everything to have QDC's? Plus, when you unhook the QDC's how do you actually take them out? It looks like the snake rotaries would prevent you from being able to disconnect everything to take them out since they're solid and not flexible like using tube would be. But if he likes it and is happy with it that's his prerogative. I agree with RatDog, I would have put the gtx295 under water before worrying about all those QDC's and snake rotaries. Just my $.02


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Hope they will make a 140mm AX RAD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ax-120mm-series-radiators/


Has anyone reviewed these yet? I'm looking to purchase new radiators soon.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I do. I have QDC's on the external radiator stand and QDC's on the computer case.
> This will allow me to disconnect any of the 3 major components and service them without having to drain the other 2 (computer, interconnecting tubes, cooler).


oh wow. what kind and where did you get them? i plan on hooking this up . . .

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9914/ex-rad-170/Koolance_HXP-135_Plate_Heat_Exchanger_no_nozzles.html

in my loop someday. of course, externally.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> The most simple solution is go buy some acrylic nail polish, and use the little itty bitty brush to fill in the engraving. Then wipe away excess with nail polish remover.
> Probably significantly cheaper than finding a syringe, or buying a fine tip paint pen(which are hard to find).


Another good idea, but fluorescent blue/green or silver coloured nail polish? Does it exist?
Sorry for the question but, im not exactly up to date on my nail polishes


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *Fully Modular All-Fitting Watercooling*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not mine, just say it on XS


The restriction on those rigs must be a b*tch


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> oh wow. what kind and where did you get them? i plan on hooking this up . . .
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9914/ex-rad-170/Koolance_HXP-135_Plate_Heat_Exchanger_no_nozzles.html
> in my loop someday. of course, externally.


They are both Koolance QDC's.

The first pair I got when I ordered my external radiator and pump case from Danger Den.

The second set I ordered from were slightly different, I went with one side being G1/4" threaded so I could use what ever fitting I wanted (Bitspower is my fitting of choice) for the inside of my case.

I got 2 each of:

Koolance QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff, Male Panel, Female Threaded

Koolance QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff, Female Barb [For ID: 13mm, 1/2"]

I also ended up taking 4 large metal washers (about 2" in diameter), drilling out the center hole to match the size of the QDC's, painting them black, and mounted them in the same holes that my case (and ABS Cayon) has for passing cables/hoses through. This let me keep the case relatively unmodified, yet have a nice firm mounting point for the QDC's.



Here is what it currently looks like (Next week, I plan on tearing my entire loop down and replace the tubing from Primochill to Durelene):


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> They are both Koolance QDC's.
> The first pair I got when I ordered my external radiator and pump case from Danger Den.
> The second set I ordered from were slightly different, I went with one side being G1/4" threaded so I could use what ever fitting I wanted (Bitspower is my fitting of choice) for the inside of my case.
> I got 2 each of:
> Koolance QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff, Male Panel, Female Threaded
> Koolance QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff, Female Barb [For ID: 13mm, 1/2"]
> I also ended up taking 4 large metal washers (about 2" in diameter), drilling out the center hole to match the size of the QDC's, painting them black, and mounted them in the same holes that my case (and ABS Cayon) has for passing cables/hoses through. This let me keep the case relatively unmodified, yet have a nice firm mounting point for the QDC's.
> 
> Here is what it currently looks like (Next week, I plan on tearing my entire loop down and replace the tubing from Primochill to Durelene):


thanks! you are not such a knucklehead afterall. i'll check out your gallery later. i want to see the rest of your loop. looks like you've been doing this for awhile. beautiful, man.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Hmmm... This is what the PCB looks like.
> 
> So I have to put tiny heatsinks on those 7 memory chips around the GPU? Do I put thermal paste between the chip and the mini-heatsinks?
> Is that long black thing running across the PCB a heatsink for the VRM? Should I leave that as it is?
> Is there any other area I should put heatsinks on?
> Thanks guys


Ok first things first, your card looks like its a non IHS (integrated heat spreader-square silver cover on the chip) type card-so you just cant go slapping any old universal block on it, if you are going with EKWB use this to find a suitable block for you :http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

Secondly, the vrms are the hottest part and those should have good heatsinks such as : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708012 and : http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/index.php?action=search&keyword=heat+sink&x=0&y=0 these are very good, i still have a set left over from my universal card days (no im not selling them lol).

Then your memory chips etc will also benefit from heatsinks, they need not be the expensive copper type.

Attach the heatsinks with a thermal adhesive such as :http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/discontinued-products/thermal-compound/381/g-1.html this is much better than adhesive thermal pads/tape, the heat sinks tend to sometimes drop off with thermal pads. The thermal compound goes on easily, and also may be removed easily, just leave it to cure overnight and NOT for the 5 hrs they suggest.

Here is a great guide for you, just scroll down to the post by rubix_1011 (Universal GPU blocks - Additional cooling considerations) :http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/265776-11-read-first-watercooling-sticky (in fact this guide answers many questions apart from mere universal block usage)

Finally, i also used a slimline Scythe on my older rig (now im full block) under the Video card to make sure that temperatures were kept at a reasonable level (see photo) when gaming etc.

*Picture of my rig when i used a Universal GPU block*



Hope that this info has helped-all i'll say is be careful and do it properly or as others have said, you will fry your card.

BTW-that long 'black thing' is actually a generic aluminium or steel heatsink that the card manufacturer provide, it can be left in place if you so desire.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Hope they will make a 140mm AX RAD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ax-120mm-series-radiators/


Nice looking, 40mm thickness, but ive looked on the site and no mention of FPS is made, for me that would be the clincher.................

Update: 16 FPI hmm.................

Still looks good though.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *Fully Modular All-Fitting Watercooling*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not mine, just say it on XS


That is one of the worst uses of money I've ever seen. I hate it completely. Video was too hard to watch had to turn it off.

Edit: And here is a review of that new XSPC AX360 rad.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> They are both Koolance QDC's.
> The first pair I got when I ordered my external radiator and pump case from Danger Den.
> The second set I ordered from were slightly different, I went with one side being G1/4" threaded so I could use what ever fitting I wanted (Bitspower is my fitting of choice) for the inside of my case.
> I got 2 each of:
> Koolance QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff, Male Panel, Female Threaded
> Koolance QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff, Female Barb [For ID: 13mm, 1/2"]
> I also ended up taking 4 large metal washers (about 2" in diameter), drilling out the center hole to match the size of the QDC's, painting them black, and mounted them in the same holes that my case (and ABS Cayon) has for passing cables/hoses through. This let me keep the case relatively unmodified, yet have a nice firm mounting point for the QDC's.
> 
> Here is what it currently looks like (Next week, I plan on tearing my entire loop down and replace the tubing from Primochill to Durelene):


Btw im in the process of RMAing 2x VL3N M & 2 x VL3N F QDCs that i used to use, the nickel has come away from the inner circle of the male fittings, and the female fittings are also starting to show the same signs, add to that considerable staining (no i didnt use dye in that loop). Koolance replied that because i use Distilled water with a SKC, my warranty is probably voided-kind of ridiculous, this reminds me of another manufacturer and their insufficient nickel plating jobs.

The twist in the tail? I bought the QDCs in march-wow. So these expensive items have a 7 month time span, before problems set in.(this is not a generalisation, its my personal experience)


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> That is one of the worst uses of money I've ever seen. I hate it completely. Video was too hard to watch had to turn it off.
> Edit: And here is a review of that new XSPC AX360 rad.


thats a little harsh .. Ill admit that its a very expensive alternative to tubing but it does give an effect similar to full copper tubing or other rigid tubings and the look is pretty sweet.. Its something different that looks good and this is the thread for that kind of thing. what if he just makes a ton more money than you , then its justified.


----------



## HF Venom

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *Fully Modular All-Fitting Watercooling*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not mine, just say it on XS






This looks awful. He's talking about aesthetics... *cringe*


----------



## derickwm

Aesthetics are eh but I like the idea of it.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> thats a little harsh .. Ill admit that its a very expensive alternative to tubing but it does give an effect similar to full copper tubing or other rigid tubings and the look is pretty sweet.. Its something different that looks good and this is the thread for that kind of thing. what if he just makes a ton more money than you , then its justified.


No, it just looks terrible IMO. It's not just the QDCs either, it's like he just found a bunch of components he liked and just stuck them all in the same case. And then he went and used tubing on the outside anyway.








And no GPU block? Really?
It is different, and this is the place for that, but if you put it out there be ready for some feedback positive or negative.

Finally, whether he makes a ton more money than me or not doesn't make a difference. Most anyone could save up and do this eventually.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Ok first things first, your card looks like its a non IHS (integrated heat sink-square silver cover on the chip) type card-so you just cant go slapping any old universal block on it, if you are going with EKWB use this to find a suitable block for you :http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/
> Secondly, the vrms are the hottest part and those should have good heatsinks such as : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708012 and : http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/index.php?action=search&keyword=heat+sink&x=0&y=0 these are very good, i still have a set left over from my universal card days (no im not selling them lol).
> Then your memory chips etc will also benefit from heatsinks, they need not be the expensive copper type.
> Attach the heatsinks with a thermal adhesive such as :http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/discontinued-products/thermal-compound/381/g-1.html this is much better than adhesive thermal pads/tape, the heat sinks tend to sometimes drop off with thermal pads. The thermal compound goes on easily, and also may be removed easily, just leave it to cure overnight and NOT for the 5 hrs they suggest.
> Here is a great guide for you, just scroll down to the post by rubix_1011 (Universal GPU blocks - Additional cooling considerations) :http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/265776-11-read-first-watercooling-sticky (in fact this guide answers many questions apart from mere universal block usage)
> Finally, i also used a slimline Scythe on my older rig (now im full block) under the Video card to make sure that temperatures were kept at a reasonable level (see photo) when gaming etc.
> *Picture of my rig when i used a Universal GPU block*
> 
> Hope that this info has helped-all i'll say is be careful and do it properly or as others have said, you will fry your card.
> BTW-that long 'black thing' is actually a generic aluminium or steel heatsink that the card manufacturer provide, it can be left in place if you so desire.


Thanks mate!! +1 rep to you









According to rubix_1011's guide, both the mosfets and the inductors should be cooled. I can see only the mosfets cooled by the stock long black heatsink. I count 7 RAM chips and 10 inductors, so 17 heatsinks. I will put copper heatsinks on all of them. Is there any other component I should cover? Here's a clearer picture



Oh! and thats a sexy rig!







Nice coolant colour! Whats the tube size? case?

and I almost forgot.. CoolingConfigurator says the EK Universal blocks I'm interested in is "Visual" Compatible with my Asus 680 DCII
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=679


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> No, it just looks terrible IMO. It's not just the QDCs either, it's like he just found a bunch of components he liked and just stuck them all in the same case. And then he went and used tubing on the outside anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no GPU block? Really?
> It is different, and this is the place for that, but if you put it out there be ready for some feedback positive or negative.
> Finally, whether he makes a ton more money than me or not doesn't make a difference. Most anyone could save up and do this eventually.


yeah guess your right about that ,I just find it was worth a try , im more surprised that nothing there leaks . I dont usually use any QD because im afraid they will leak one day ( paranoid much ? ) I certainly wouldnt use 20 of them .


----------



## HF Venom

@samoth777
look again! the coolant is clear, the tubes are colored


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Thanks mate!! +1 rep to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to rubix_1011's guide, both the mosfets and the inductors should be cooled. I can see only the mosfets cooled by the stock long black heatsink. I count 7 RAM chips and 10 inductors, so 17 heatsinks. I will put copper heatsinks on all of them. Is there any other component I should cover? Here's a clearer picture
> 
> Oh! and thats a sexy rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice coolant colour! Whats the tube size? case?
> and I almost forgot.. CoolingConfigurator says the EK Universal blocks I'm interested in is "Visual" Compatible with my Asus 680 DCII
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=679


Thank you for the rep









I've looked at your cooling config page, and you have a ton of choices, the config is quite reliable so knock yourself out! Just a personal bit of advice, go for a copper based block, the jury is still out on the nickel ones and their inherent problems.

This is a picture of my old card(see photo) that i had used the Universal block on(GTX 460, i now use a GTX 580 with full cover block)-it has aluminium heatsinks, because i had not purchased the better copper heatsinks as yet. It gives you a clear guide as to what areas should have heat sinks placed on them-*but i stress, please, if u can, use a similar fan to the one i used, just to be 100% safe*. The fan need not be ramped up fully so noise should not be a problem, but in my experience, it's better to be safe than sorry when using Universal blocks.



As for my rig, The case is a modded HAF 922 (i powdercoated the interior in black, added a panel, de-rivited the drive cage, and got a windowed side panel)- that, was it a few months ago-it has changed drastically. It is much neater, i have better fittings,water blocks, i have routed it differently etc, and its all due to the posters in this forum and their excellent advice (thanks







)

No coolant was or is used, just plain old Distilled water, 2 drops of Mayhem's extreme biocide, and a silver kill coil. The tubing is 3\8" ID - 1\2" OD (10-13mm) UV blue Primochill LRT *AND SHOULD BE AVOIDED LIKE THE PLAGUE!!!*. If you have the time, have a look at this thread, and you will understand why :http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/1210

Lets not get into that here though, there is a specific thread for that topic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> I'm sorry but I'm not liking that look at all. I mean what's the point? Also the CPU to RAM connection is just stupid, now you can't access your top PCIE slot.


This^^
Just a waste of fittings....

This is the OCN watercooling club,please don't post other site rigs here,especially without the rig builders permission.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

here my nzxt source mod 2.0 i hope you all like it


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Another good idea, but fluorescent blue/green or silver coloured nail polish? Does it exist?
> Sorry for the question but, im not exactly up to date on my nail polishes


Oh yeah, trust me...my wife has every color you can imagine.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here my nzxt source mod 2.0 i hope you all like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that two cases joined side by side to make a double wide case? Very cool. I saw someone do that with the HAF-X too. Makes me want to get another 800D and put a MO-RA3 in it


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Oh yeah, trust me...my wife has every color you can imagine.


Ok well my wife has just adopted herself a new project-now, the hard part is convincing her of this


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Is that two cases joined side by side to make a double wide case? Very cool. I saw someone do that with the HAF-X too. Makes me want to get another 800D and put a MO-RA3 in it


Yes it looks interesting, so much going on, but im a bit mixed up, please explain what we are looking at mate (i mean a little more in-depth info, if it isn't too much trouble)

Why the use of two cases, and this isn't an interrogation, im just interested in your train of thought


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Thanks mate!! +1 rep to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to rubix_1011's guide, both the mosfets and the inductors should be cooled. I can see only the mosfets cooled by the stock long black heatsink. I count 7 RAM chips and 10 inductors, so 17 heatsinks. I will put copper heatsinks on all of them. Is there any other component I should cover? Here's a clearer picture
> 
> Oh! and thats a sexy rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice coolant colour! Whats the tube size? case?
> and I almost forgot.. CoolingConfigurator says the EK Universal blocks I'm interested in is "Visual" Compatible with my Asus 680 DCII
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=679


Maybe it's just my old eyes, but I am counting 8 ram chips


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Is that two cases joined side by side to make a double wide case? Very cool. I saw someone do that with the HAF-X too. Makes me want to get another 800D and put a MO-RA3 in it


yes is two nzxt source 210 put together...it allows for more room and radiator expansion







.. two 800d that would be insane







it would be a nice mod for rad expansion for sure


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> thanks! you are not such a knucklehead afterall. i'll check out your gallery later. i want to see the rest of your loop. looks like you've been doing this for awhile. beautiful, man.


I try not to be.

The term "Knucklehead" comes from the type of motor that Harley Davidson used from 1936 to 1947. The 47 part of the name is from the last production year (and my most favorite) of those Harley's. It got the nickname because of the shape of the rocker boxes the engine used.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Btw im in the process of RMAing 2x VL3N M & 2 x VL3N F QDCs that i used to use, the nickel has come away from the inner circle of the male fittings, and the female fittings are also starting to show the same signs, add to that considerable staining (no i didnt use dye in that loop). Koolance replied that because i use Distilled water with a SKC, my warranty is probably voided-kind of ridiculous, this reminds me of another manufacturer and their insufficient nickel plating jobs.
> The twist in the tail? I bought the QDCs in march-wow. So these expensive items have a 7 month time span, before problems set in.(this is not a generalisation, its my personal experience)


Ug. Sorry to hear that. So far mine are holding up wonderfully. Been using them for almost 10 months now without any indecent. I recently had to tear down part of my loop to add a 2nd GTX 580 to it, and inspected them and they seemed fine. Granted I've been running FluidXP+ all that time, but I don't feel like spending $90 to replace it all after my tear down and rebuild, so I too am going over to distilled water and adding Mayhem dye.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Maybe it's just my old eyes, but I am counting 8 ram chips


Yep, 8 chips is what i see as well.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I try not to be.
> The term "Knucklehead" comes from the type of motor that Harley Davidson used from 1936 to 1947. The 47 part of the name is from the last production year (and my most favorite) of those Harley's. It got the nickname because of the shape of the rocker boxes the engine used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ug. Sorry to hear that. So far mine are holding up wonderfully. Been using them for almost 10 months now without any indecent. I recently had to tear down part of my loop to add a 2nd GTX 580 to it, and inspected them and they seemed fine. Granted I've been running FluidXP+ all that time, but I don't feel like spending $90 to replace it all after my tear down and rebuild, so I too am going over to distilled water and adding Mayhem dye.


Check out this post with regards to the QDCs, the main post addresses the same problem exactly as i am having at the moment, and the last addresses an issue that i feel needs looking into more, but im not going for the heavy artillery just yet, i want to see what Koolance have to say-it's only fair.

Link:http://forums.koolance.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2172

There is also this: http://hardforum.com/archive/index.php/t-1630311.html


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I try not to be.
> The term "Knucklehead" comes from the type of motor that Harley Davidson used from 1936 to 1947. The 47 part of the name is from the last production year (and my most favorite) of those Harley's. It got the nickname because of the shape of the rocker boxes the engine used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ug. Sorry to hear that. So far mine are holding up wonderfully. Been using them for almost 10 months now without any indecent. I recently had to tear down part of my loop to add a 2nd GTX 580 to it, and inspected them and they seemed fine. Granted I've been running FluidXP+ all that time, but I don't feel like spending $90 to replace it all after my tear down and rebuild, so I too am going over to distilled water and adding Mayhem dye.


From what i can gather, apart from a few exceptions to the rule, most coolants are more or less re bottled anti-freeze, dressed up as a panacea for all the ills of the metal innards of a water cooled pc -there are a few good ones out there such as Mayhem's stuff (although some people have tried to do a hatchet job on him), but most of the rest are snake oil -best thing is distilled water, biocide and or SKC -also i change my water every 2 months, it takes 5 min, for my peace of mind.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> yes is two nzxt source 210 put together...it allows for more room and radiator expansion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. two 800d that would be insane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it would be a nice mod for rad expansion for sure


Considering I've been looking at CaseLabs and MountainMods as a possible upgrade, an 800D Frankencase might not be a bad alternative. I'm sure I could pick one up for a decent price. Much cheaper than getting a CL or MM case, that's for sure. My head gears are spinning now lol
How do you have the your two cases joined? Are they actually secured together as one big case? Or are they just sitting next to each other and can easily be pulled apart?


----------



## NostraD

I have had a bad experience with the Koolance QDs, but it wasn't related to the metallurgy. Earlier this year (Feb.) I ordered a few to install in my sig rig. One of the QDs started leaking after a week of use. I had to disassemble my loop to remove it. The red o-ring on the male piece was split and crumbling as if it were old. I couldn't believe I hadn't noticed this before installation. After finding out the problem, I looked to my other QD, and sure enough it broke while I was trying to remove it from the fitting. Wish I had taken pictures, but I wasn't a member here at the time and just ordered different QD to place in my system.

Yeah they are ugly, but I haven't had a lick of trouble with them! They are MUCH easier to connect and disconnect too! In my current rig they are somewhat hidden inside the dual drive bay behind the XSPC 720.


----------



## moparbob7

Hey guys, I just bought the XSPC Raystorm EX240 water Cooling Kit for AMD. I got it built and testing for leaks now. I am coming for a H50 and new the hard core water cooling. Can you turn your case on the side or lay it down so it is easy to put the motherboard in. I am not sure about the reservoirs (bay and internal reservoirs)

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Considering I've been looking at CaseLabs and MountainMods as a possible upgrade, an 800D Frankencase might not be a bad alternative. I'm sure I could pick one up for a decent price. Much cheaper than getting a CL or MM case, that's for sure. My head gears are spinning now lol
> How do you have the your two cases joined? Are they actually secured together as one big case? Or are they just sitting next to each other and can easily be pulled apart?


id stick them together for sure , there are many ways to do from something as simple as 6 small bolts around the edges or you could leave a small lip and epoxy them together . I dont think I would go as far as welding them together or anything but even something as simple as a tray that they both fit in snuggly. Caselabs makes a couple cases that are basically double wides like the M8 and 10 but they are a bit pricey if you go with the two 800Ds you will have enough 5.25 bays enough HDD cages and more than enough space for rads


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> From what i can gather, apart from a few exceptions to the rule, most coolants are more or less re bottled anti-freeze, dressed up as a panacea for all the ills of the metal innards of a water cooled pc -there are a few good ones out there such as Mayhem's stuff (although some people have tried to do a hatchet job on him), but most of the rest are snake oil -best thing is distilled water, biocide and or SKC -also i change my water every 2 months, it takes 5 min, for my peace of mind.


Yeah, at $35 per bottle (32 oz) and my current loop taking 2 bottles, I ran the stuff for 10 months. It would send me to the poor house doing $70 of fluid changing every 3 or 6 months. Now that I'm going to add another RX360 radiator and a larger reservoir, I'd figure that I'd need 3 bottles to fill my loop. That's $105! That's why I'm just going to go over to distilled water and a silver kill coil. For $1 a gallon for Distilled water (or even $10 a gallon for Deionized Water), it's hard to say no to that. I'll most likely start changing the water in my loop every 2 months as well for that price.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I have had a bad experience with the Koolance QDs, but it wasn't related to the metallurgy. Earlier this year (Feb.) I ordered a few to install in my sig rig. One of the QDs started leaking after a week of use. I had to disassemble my loop to remove it. The red o-ring on the male piece was split and crumbling as if it were old. I couldn't believe I hadn't noticed this before installation. After finding out the problem, I looked to my other QD, and sure enough it broke while I was trying to remove it from the fitting. Wish I had taken pictures, but I wasn't a member here at the time and just ordered different QD to place in my system.
> Yeah they are ugly, but I haven't had a lick of trouble with them! They are MUCH easier to connect and disconnect too! In my current rig they are somewhat hidden inside the dual drive bay behind the XSPC 720.


Mate read this link and act upon it if you still have your QDCs -somewhere in the middle of the thread is an official reply from a Tim (Koolance rep) who states any such problems will be honoured by RMA.
Adding to your prior issue, i also have read (not hearsay) that the red o rings were faulty, the QDCs with the later added black o rings didnt have problems with the o rings splitting.

http://hardforum.com/archive/index.php/t-1630311.html

So get cracking on your RMA mate


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Hey guys, I just bought the XSPC Raystorm EX240 water Cooling Kit for AMD. I got it built and testing for leaks now. I am coming for a H50 and new the hard core water cooling. Can you turn your case on the side or lay it down so it is easy to put the motherboard in. I am not sure about the reservoirs (bay and internal reservoirs)
> Thanks,
> Bob


Im not sure that i understand your question-are you leak testing outside the case? If so, then yes of course you can put you case on its side to enable mounting your mobo, just place a thickish cloth underneath so that it does not scratch. Mate have you read how to install a water cooling system? If not please say so and ill link you a few vids/guides, it will make life a hell of a lot easier for you, and you will avoid many of the problems that can arise.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> id stick them together for sure , there are many ways to do from something as simple as 6 small bolts around the edges or you could leave a small lip and epoxy them together . I dont think I would go as far as welding them together or anything but even something as simple as a tray that they both fit in snuggly. Caselabs makes a couple cases that are basically double wides like the M8 and 10 but they are a bit pricey if you go with the two 800Ds you will have enough 5.25 bays enough HDD cages and more than enough space for rads


There is that little lip around the edge of the interior. I could probably bolt them together on that lip using some washers to make up the difference. Now to find a cheap 7/800D


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Considering I've been looking at CaseLabs and MountainMods as a possible upgrade, an 800D Frankencase might not be a bad alternative. I'm sure I could pick one up for a decent price. Much cheaper than getting a CL or MM case, that's for sure. My head gears are spinning now lol
> How do you have the your two cases joined? Are they actually secured together as one big case? Or are they just sitting next to each other and can easily be pulled apart?


it's secured together with industrial zip ties, they are sooo strong i would of to cut them to take the cases apart....at first i was going to use nuts on bolts but i didn't want to sit their tighten every single one...but zip ties work excellent you can't even see them stealth mode lol...but your seriously thinking to get another 800d you can just use rivets which would work very well too


----------



## moparbob7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Im not sure that i understand your question-are you leak testing outside the case? If so, then yes of course you can put you case on its side to enable mounting your mobo, just place a thickish cloth underneath so that it does not scratch. Mate have you read how to install a water cooling system? If not please say so and ill link you a few vids/guides, it will make life a hell of a lot easier for you, and you will avoid many of the problems that can arise.


I got it installed into the case. Tomorrow I am going to install the motherboard. Can you lay the case on the side with the watercooling stuff installed?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, at $35 per bottle (32 oz) and my current loop taking 2 bottles, I ran the stuff for 10 months. It would send me to the poor house doing $70 of fluid changing every 3 or 6 months. Now that I'm going to add another RX360 radiator and a larger reservoir, I'd figure that I'd need 3 bottles to fill my loop. That's $105! That's why I'm just going to go over to distilled water and a silver kill coil. For $1 a gallon for Distilled water (or even $10 a gallon for Deionized Water), it's hard to say no to that. I'll most likely start changing the water in my loop every 2 months as well for that price.


Distilled is better than de-ionized, De ionized just has ions removed (which quickly return) distilled has more impurities/metals removed-if you want to go OTT, try this, i was given a few bottles by a pharmaceuticals rep by chance when i struck up a conversation with the drugstore owner (i buy my distilled water from the drugstore-no Walmart here lol).



It's WFI (not to be confused with saline solution) WFI=water for injections, and its reasonably cheap over here, 1 euro per litre(lol spell check is trying to correct my spelling of litre- illeterate sod!) -its even purer than distilled water.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> I got it installed into the case. Tomorrow I am going to install the motherboard. Can you lay the case on the side with the watercooling stuff installed?


yeah ive done that a few times - mainly cause i didnt have a drain port installed and it was PITA to drain it.

As long as everything is water tight you wont have a prob


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> I got it installed into the case. Tomorrow I am going to install the motherboard. Can you lay the case on the side with the watercooling stuff installed?


Personally, i would say that you have things the wrong way around, you should have your mobo installed first then the rest-so no i would not risk turning your case on its side, in fact, i would say remove your wc system and start over (see where the guides and videos come in handy?)

If you turn you case on its side, you may risk spillage etc, since the water pressure will be on other areas of your loop when on its side as opposed to up straight.

Just two quick important things: firstly use an external psu for your leak test after you mount your mobo, or use that adaptor that shorts the PSU and just powers your pump, this will prevent water damage to your hardware should there be a leak-which leads me onto my second part, if anything gets wet (hardware i mean) dry it off with paper towels, and let it dry for a few days, to avoid frying the component.

Mate, no offence meant, but please either look up the beginners guides on this forum, or google the dazmode or 3d overclockers beginners videos/guides-they are very helpful and in simple non technical english.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> it's secured together with industrial zip ties, they are sooo strong i would of to cut them to take the cases apart....at first i was going to use nuts on bolts but i didn't want to sit their tighten every single one...but zip ties work excellent you can't even see them stealth mode lol...but your seriously thinking to get another 800d you can just use rivets which would work very well too


Rivets would work too, but bolts would allow me to take it apart if needed... I checked the marketplace and didn't see a 700 or 800D for sale. I was kind of surprised, TBA


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Rivets would work too, but bolts would allow me to take it apart if needed... I checked the marketplace and didn't see a 700 or 800D for sale. I was kind of surprised, TBA


sounds good bud, i would ove to see a build log when you've received the case


----------



## Mr.Eiht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> This project has not yet closed. Are updated in the final. But according to the link.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Instant drooling!


Mate you should get banned from building PCs for this. Absolutely amazing.
I would say by far the most beautiful PC I have seen.
// I really hope my system did not keylog the last sentence.

Respect for your work! LIKE IT!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> sounds good bud, i would ove to see a build log when you've received the case


Have to find one for sale first lol but if this actually happens, there is most definitely be a build log


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> thats a little harsh .. Ill admit that its a very expensive alternative to tubing but it does give an effect similar to full copper tubing or other rigid tubings and the look is pretty sweet.. Its something different that looks good and this is the thread for that kind of thing. what if he just makes a ton more money than you , then its justified.


Uhh.. if he had more money than any of us he would have all that bolted on stuff inside a proper case, like a Case Labs box. He would also probably have a graphics card that was slightly newer than a GTX 295. I have seen several builds that are mostly fittings like check this water cooled desk that is all fittings and crystal link ridged tube: here But look at the rest of the build, it is all high class not just a bunch of fittings jammed into a frankencase.

Sorry to be honest, I just think it is fugly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's what they are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emissary: after doing it long enough you start to recognize _all_ the different styles.
> Minor update:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics in log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just realized Black, Orange and Blue blends very well!!!
Click to expand...

Yup, looks like a giant Bruise though. I like it, just sayin tho.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I was thinking, isn't the first point of cylinder reservoirs to be air traps ? Does having the liquid come through the top and exit through the bottom not cancel that "effect" ?
> I'm thinking that with the top rad being the highest part in the loop and the reservoir receiving water through the top the top radiator would become the "air trap". How would I get rid of that air ?


Yeah um no. The First point is to have coolant in reserve for the Pump(s).









I have zero air in my Reservoir though. Not even bubbles.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *Fully Modular All-Fitting Watercooling*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not mine, just say it on XS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks awful. He's talking about aesthetics... *cringe*
Click to expand...

Not a fan of giving up the 1st PCI-e slot unless there is a definite need.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> Uhh.. if he had more money than any of us he would have all that bolted on stuff inside a proper case, like a Case Labs box. He would also probably have a graphics card that was slightly newer than a GTX 295. I have seen several builds that are mostly fittings like check this water cooled desk that is all fittings and crystal link ridged tube: here But look at the rest of the build, it is all high class not just a bunch of fittings jammed into a frankencase.
> Sorry to be honest, I just think it is fugly.


I love l3p desk , I plan on making a desk soon to house my folding rig and give my computer room a bit more character. The room is up in the attic ( finished ) and it just has my things, my computer and my recliner with my library and its just a place I can relax no kid or wife allowed ..Thats sounds a little selfish but everyone needs a man-cave and a nice desk with good lighting and my gaming tower next to it is what that room is missing .


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I love l3p desk , I plan on making a desk soon to house my folding rig and give my computer room a bit more character. The room is up in the attic ( finished ) and it just has my things, my computer and my recliner with my library and its just a place I can relax no kid or wife allowed ..Thats sounds a little selfish but everyone needs a man-cave and a nice desk with good lighting and my gaming tower next to it is what that room is missing .


*
Are you kidding? What you said is gospel! Amen to that!*

Im referring to the Man Cave, but since this is a watercooling forum, ill add-good luck on your endeavour to construct a desk pc similar to l3p. It will take alot of patience, and hard work, but most of all ***** (word censored just in case the wife sees this post







)


----------



## samoth777

Guys I have a question about tubing. Does size really matter? 10mm vs 12mm. I know 12mm are more kink free, but just in terms of cooling performance, is there a big difference between the 2 sizes?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Maybe it's just my old eyes, but I am counting 8 ram chips


I count 7 around the GPU. Am I missing something? Where's the 8th?


----------



## Shakal

Here is my rig i just finished today























































and here is a short video. towards middle i turn up all the fans so you can hear how loud it can get







(2xDelta 120x25 and 3xScythe Ultra Kaze)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5RIbxeWYuA&feature=plcp


----------



## bomberjun

Very nice loop you did in there, so with the placement of your reservoir.


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I have had a bad experience with the Koolance QDs, but it wasn't related to the metallurgy. Earlier this year (Feb.) I ordered a few to install in my sig rig. One of the QDs started leaking after a week of use. I had to disassemble my loop to remove it. The red o-ring on the male piece was split and crumbling as if it were old. I couldn't believe I hadn't noticed this before installation. After finding out the problem, I looked to my other QD, and sure enough it broke while I was trying to remove it from the fitting. Wish I had taken pictures, but I wasn't a member here at the time and just ordered different QD to place in my system.
> Yeah they are ugly, but I haven't had a lick of trouble with them! They are MUCH easier to connect and disconnect too! In my current rig they are somewhat hidden inside the dual drive bay behind the XSPC 720.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I ordered and installed a couple of sets of these a few weeks ago. They may not look the best as you said, but with green LED's shining through them they aren't even that bad







Much cheaper than the koolance QDCs, and compatible with 7/16ID tubing due to having a barb instead of a compression fitting. I am very happy with mine


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shakal*
> 
> Here is my rig i just finished today
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here is a short video. towards middle i turn up all the fans so you can hear how loud it can get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (2xDelta 120x25 and 3xScythe Ultra Kaze)
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5RIbxeWYuA&feature=plcp


Brillant, great looking loop. Very clean, how's your temps?


----------



## Shakal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Brillant, great looking loop. Very clean, how's your temps?


the temps are excellent. cpu idle @ 32-36 @ 1.35vcore 4.6ghz on the 3930k and no more than 65 degrees full load. GPU idle @ 32 fully maxed out in catalyst and vcore at 1200mV never sees more than 45 at full load(sapphire 7970).


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shakal*
> 
> the temps are excellent. cpu idle @ 32-36 @ 1.35vcore 4.6ghz on the 3930k and no more than 65 degrees full load. GPU idle @ 32 fully maxed out in catalyst and vcore at 1200mV never sees more than 45 at full load(sapphire 7970).


Great Job, I had a 650D. I loved the looks of the case, only if I had your Imagination!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shakal*
> 
> Here is my rig i just finished today
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here is a short video. towards middle i turn up all the fans so you can hear how loud it can get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (2xDelta 120x25 and 3xScythe Ultra Kaze)
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5RIbxeWYuA&feature=plcp


Great looking build.







Video gave me motion sickness though







LOL


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Guys I have a question about tubing. Does size really matter? 10mm vs 12mm. I know 12mm are more kink free, but just in terms of cooling performance, is there a big difference between the 2 sizes?
> I count 7 around the GPU. Am I missing something? Where's the 8th?


There is slightly more restriction in smaller tube but it is not enough to effect your loop unless you do miles of it. Martin did a bunch of testing ages ago on this very topic. If you are worried about maximum flow go for the big stuff, if you like easier bends and less tube look in your case for for the skinny. Either way you will not notice a difference in your temps or performance.


----------



## Aleckazee

i5 2500k & GTX 560 Ti under water in the sg05. No where near finished but it's a start. Will be upgrading graphics card soon to a 660 ti or 670 but I don't think it will fit.



Check out my build log in my sig if your interested


----------



## sortableturnip

Count'em...8


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> i5 2500k & GTX 560 Ti under water in the sg05. No where near finished but it's a start. Will be upgrading graphics card soon to a 660 ti or 670 but I don't think it will fit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my build log in my sig if your interested


Cool little build. Everything stays cool with just that 120? If you're thinking of upgrading, a 660 or 670 should fit, especially with the small reference PCB.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> i5 2500k & GTX 560 Ti under water in the sg05. No where near finished but it's a start. Will be upgrading graphics card soon to a 660 ti or 670 but I don't think it will fit. Check out my build log in my sig if your interested


Get a small pcb gtx670 here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130782

They have small waterblocks for them now too.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Updates:


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> i5 2500k & GTX 560 Ti under water in the sg05. No where near finished but it's a start. Will be upgrading graphics card soon to a 660 ti or 670 but I don't think it will fit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my build log in my sig if your interested


man that is freakin awesome. i've always wanted to do a super small form build like that. much different than my 800d thats forsure LOL


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Updates:






Nice lookin build lazy bur








Check out my updated pics of my build in my log


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> I ordered and installed a couple of sets of these a few weeks ago. They may not look the best as you said, but with green LED's shining through them they aren't even that bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much cheaper than the koolance QDCs, and compatible with 7/16ID tubing due to having a barb instead of a compression fitting. I am very happy with mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build. I like the way the two different colors of tubing are worked in there. I wanted to try that on my current rig, but I was afraid it would look weird. Yours looks very nice. Good job, and glad to see another watercooler using these QDs. They work great!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Updates:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! I love those monsoon fittings! Can't wait till I can get mine!


----------



## mannyfc

allllmost done , need to finish cutting the outside panel/panels, window on the GPU side and big hole for the rad on the other side.







CC more than welcome


----------



## protzman

usually i dont like those coils, but me likey


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nice looking, 40mm thickness, but ive looked on the site and no mention of FPS is made, for me that would be the clincher.................
> Update: 16 FPI hmm.................
> Still looks good though.


Has asked them about a 140mm version, but no answer yet - Think is looks really nice


----------



## Entropia

My first foray into water cooling... Definitely not as pretty as a lot of the builds I've seen so far but i'm hoping some investment in lighting may fix that soon


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> i5 2500k & GTX 560 Ti under water in the sg05. No where near finished but it's a start. Will be upgrading graphics card soon to a 660 ti or 670 but I don't think it will fit.
> 
> Check out my build log in my sig if your interested


Nice.

How are the temps on that thing with such a small radiator? I saw your temps on air in your build log, but didn't see anything about them once you went to water.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> i5 2500k & GTX 560 Ti under water in the sg05. No where near finished but it's a start. Will be upgrading graphics card soon to a 660 ti or 670 but I don't think it will fit.
> 
> Check out my build log in my sig if your interested


get a bigger rad and remove one fan (or remove both and buy a gt ap-15).Also you can use swiftech apogee drive II and a T elbow as a res.In this way you will get more cooling capacity and save some space


----------



## Fonne

*MSI N680GTX Lightning to get FC water block*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/262/19/MSI-N680GTX-Lightning-to-get-FC-water-block/
Quote:


> EK Water Blocks, premium water cooling gear provider, will soon be releasing a Full-Cover water block for MSI N680GTX Lightning premium graphics card.
> 
> The water block will be available for purchase through EK webshop by the end of September.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *MSI N680GTX Lightning to get FC water block*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/262/19/MSI-N680GTX-Lightning-to-get-FC-water-block/


Thanks for this info. I was wondering about this for the past month.

+REP to you.


----------



## simonfredette

Hey guys I just needed input from a couple modders that have used the di-noc carbon fiber wrap , I bought a roll on ebay because the one on amazon was 37$ in shipping , this is the one I bought and they do offer many different lengths and obviously the price per foot goes down the more you buy but I figured 24''x50'' would be enough to try it out and its only a 12$ investment with free shipping ..


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *MSI N680GTX Lightning to get FC water block*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/262/19/MSI-N680GTX-Lightning-to-get-FC-water-block/


Welp, looks like I'll be getting 680 Lightnings after all!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Updates:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great build Lazy Bear. You should find a way to clean up the 24-pin and 6-pin PCIe cables and things'll look really sharp in there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> H*ey guys I just needed input from a couple modders that have used the di-noc carbon fiber wrap* , I bought a roll on ebay because the one on amazon was 37$ in shipping , this is the one I bought and they do offer many different lengths and obviously the price per foot goes down the more you buy but I figured 24''x50'' would be enough to try it out and its only a 12$ investment with free shipping ..


?

Where is the question?

I did my rads with DiNoc,came out rather well...


----------



## samoth777

will something like this be good enough for ram chips?


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ?
> Where is the question?
> I did my rads with DiNoc,came out rather well...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


well is the stuff I ordered any good or is it just an ebay knock off , I was wondering if anyone tried that one specifically .


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ?
> Where is the question?
> I did my rads with DiNoc,came out rather well...


DOOD! Amazing! Freaking sweet! Great job with the carbon fiber vinyl toO!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> 
> will something like this be good enough for ram chips?






Yea, that should be adequate. How tall are they?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ?
> Where is the question?
> I did my rads with DiNoc,came out rather well...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like it came out very well, I like it.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Very nice! I love those monsoon fittings! Can't wait till I can get mine!


Good Choice-yes i have to agree they are sweet









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> 
> will something like this be good enough for ram chips?


They're ok, but slightly longer fins will provide better heat dissapation, there are many good choices out there refer back to the link i gave you, there was a full page of choices









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Has asked them about a 140mm version, but no answer yet - Think is looks really nice


I agree, very tasty rads-they look much better than my RX & EX models, in one of the reviews that i read online, there was also white/copper version -the outer part -ie casing is aluminium only, and you can slide out the copper innards for better cleaning (i guess)-on the whole, they look very good though, just have to wait for the performance reports now...............

*HEADS UP PEOPLE:*

Just a quick observation -i'm sure that many of you out there have have needed to order some small item for your rigs etc, and thought twice about it because of the shipping fees or similar problems.

I have some advice (this may sound obvious to some, to those i apologise) I actually need two small items, the first is an EKWB HF SUPREME plexi top -Fonne found one for me (thanks mate), and so i went to the site, and well... ill let the picture do the talking:



It's ridiculous! I have contacted these guys in the past and they said that shipping is expensive because of the insurance. ( i must also add that i wrongly accused them of having a faulty registration system, i apologised after, it was all my fault







)

Now before some of you guys start running to this retailers defense, let me move on a bit, (save your comments until the end







)

I also need a new axis for my Aquastream xt Ultra, so i visited the site and the result was this:



Not much difference you say? Well actually, that's not exactly correct.

I also contacted Aquacomputer about their shipping, and Sven kindly explained that the system does not always pick up smaller/lighter items, *BUT* (and this is a big *BUT*), he would gladly place the item in a padded envelope and post it for less. Thank you Sven, much appreciated!

Now ok, there is a 13 euro difference between the two items, but when will common sense, and not greed prevail with some of these retailers?

That excuse (imho) vis a vis insurance in my case, is ridiculous, hell, i was even willing to absolve them of all liability should the item go missing-i would have done this in a letter before they posted the top to me, so insurance coverage would be a moot point. I have sold items such as my Corsair H80, a couple of mobos, all of which cost far more than the plexi top, and the postage(registered&express&insured *NEVER* came to more than 15 euros!)

These guys have just lost a customer, whilst retailers like Aquacomputer have increased the respect i have for them as a customer.

So the moral of the story, is always contact the retailer in such cases, you may be pleasantly surprised-there are still some out there that care about the customer.

To the other retailers- Its 2012, and money is much harder to come by, ok you are not running a charity, but we keep you in business, try to be a bit more elastic in your dealing with customers.

Both sides win in the end


----------



## kkorky

*UPDATE ON THE KOOLANCE QDC ISSUE*

(Their reply to my RMA-funny how they have come to such a conclusion, they haven't even asked for, nor seen photos of my QDC's condition-same old generic replies, strike this company from my future purchases )

"We've only seen plating issues of this type with customers using liquid or additives *other than our own*. It's an aesthetic problem because it doesn't affect performance or reliability of the part. All of our product pages have a section mentioning our coolant recommendation, and certain metal combinations to avoid: aluminum and bare (not plated) copper or brass, and silver with nickel. This is because we've seen and we can reproduce corrosion under those conditions. It does not mean every customer who mixes metals without corrosion protection will encounter it, but it becomes a stronger possibility which we do not warrant.

Most people who liquid cool already mix metals: copper, brass, stainless steel, nickel, radiator flux, chrome, and different companies use different alloys of those. Without anti-corrosives, customers simply run a greater risk of encountering corrosion. Martinsliquidlab.org once even posted about corrosion between brass and copper, which is something we've yet to see.

There are a number of "bad" pre-mixed coolants on the market, and our technicians hear about them frequently. The main issue is clogging components, which our coolants don't do. Red coolants (including ours) do have a tendency to dye tubing and plastics over time, which is a common issue with most red liquids and additives.*(talk about going off subject, or are they trying a sales pitch on me at the same time?







)*

Our quick disconnects are nickel-plated brass. The spring inside for the plunger is stainless steel. The compression ring outside (not a wetted part) is nickel plated steel.

Thanks,"

Koolance RMA Dept.

Lol, i love the condescending letter, spouting generic bumph, thank you "Mr Koolance" i didn't know about mixing metals,dye usage etc (sarcasm). How about making a QDC that lasts more than 7 months(nothing else in my rig has suffered from such problems), and not feed me lines, such as ' It does not mean every customer who mixes metals without corrosion protection will encounter it ' *You guys mix metals before the item even leaves the factory-look at the amount of different metals in the composition of the QDC, why dont you guys make a reliable product? I wonder if Koolance know about product uniformity.*

And then the best part of all, such problems will not arise if we use only *THEIR* snake oil,oops sorry, additives/liquids. Ill leave you all to come to your own conclusions on that statement-let me think, hmmm where have i heard that before?

So one would guess that they will not replace my QDCs- so be careful when buying Koolance products people, you don't want to end up like 'Uncle' kkorky did.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> I agree, very tasty rads-they look much better than my RX & EX models, in one of the reviews that i read online, there was also white/copper version -the outer part -ie casing is aluminium only, and you can slide out the copper innards for better cleaning (i guess)-on the whole, they look very good though, just have to wait for the performance reports now...............






*And REVIEWS*









http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-ax360-radiator/

http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/radiatoren/527-test-xspc-ax360.html
*
In the end, no matter what your personal taste on the aesthetics are, the AX360 is still an amazing heat exchanger. It is one of the best slim radiators we have ever tested, and may offer great value, if the AX360 is available at the sub $90 range. It definitely deserves our Editor's Choice award.*


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ?
> Where is the question?
> I did my rads with DiNoc,came out rather well...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice job mate.


----------



## protzman

will be joining you guys within the week, officially.
it's been a long time coming but im just waiting on a few more pieces in the mail.
this is an update as of today:


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And REVIEWS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-ax360-radiator/
> http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/radiatoren/527-test-xspc-ax360.html
> *
> In the end, no matter what your personal taste on the aesthetics are, the AX360 is still an amazing heat exchanger. It is one of the best slim radiators we have ever tested, and may offer great value, if the AX360 is available at the sub $90 range. It definitely deserves our Editor's Choice award.*


Yes those are the ones -i'd prefer the black ones though.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Preview 2


----------



## alisundoro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> Preview 2


Nice rig.. Clean build... with black n white combination..

just wondering, where did you put your drainage port for bleeding the WC?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alisundoro*
> 
> Nice rig.. Clean build... with black n white combination..
> just wondering, where did you put your drainage port for bleeding the WC?


A drainage port is for draining, bleeding is the process of removing air from the system.

Looks like he doesn't have one, you don't need one, I've never bothered.


----------



## NostraD

If you don't have a drain built in your loop, how do you keep from spilling water everywhere when you disassemble it?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> If you don't have a drain built in your loop, how do you keep from spilling water everywhere when you disassemble it?


'

Some of us have drain port attached to bay/res combos for example I have koolance RP-452x2. Some others attach to the top of a res and turn the system upside down.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Anyone know how the AX360 rads (will) compare with the XTX rads? I'm planning to buy some rads for a new setup.


----------



## Cord78

So final parts (I hope) have been shipped today from dazmode. Should be here tomorrow then comes the fun part of trying to run all the tubing.


----------



## jagz

QDC's like this? Seems.. Shut. Not saying water won't go through it, just thought it would push itself an opening and shut when removed or w/e.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> If you don't have a drain built in your loop, how do you keep from spilling water everywhere when you disassemble it?


I just pull the line either from the bottom gpu or the bottom rad carefully with a towel around to prevent spillage , the I put a bucket under the gpu bridge and blow into the line I just disconnected and get as much of the water out as I can.


----------



## kcuestag

It didn't seem to get any attention so there goes me posting it again.











Finished installing the GPU waterblocks last Thursday, gotta love how quiet the whole rig is right now with the fans below 900rpm. The CPU temperature did get an impact (As expected obviously) of about 4-5ºC, which is a fair trade as it is still well within the safe range when both GPU's and the CPU are under full load, and we're still with summer temperatures here and my room averages 28-31ºC ambients.

Once the summer is over it should be much better, the cards hit as high as 50-55ºC under 99% load, keep in mind though that the fans are only on push config and only run at about 800-900rpm and my room is about ~30ºC when I play games, so I think it's still a very nice deal considering how damn quiet it is. With cards on air they would hit like 65-69ºC but with A LOT more noise, and I really mean A LOT.









With the A/C turned on and the room set at about 23-24ºC the cards don't seem to go above 44ºC-48ºC, so I expect the temperatures to stay within 40-45ºC once summer is over.

Love this water cooling world, I regret not joining it earlier, loved it on the CPU when I first installed it on May 2012, now I love it even more with the GPU's added to the loop!









What's your thoughts on my installation? I had a hard time designing the whole loop and making the rad fit. I had to remove the dust filters to fit the rad, and I'll just buy some magnet strips to place the filters under the case with the magnet strips.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> It didn't seem to get any attention so there goes me posting it again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished installing the GPU waterblocks last Thursday, gotta love how quiet the whole rig is right now with the fans below 900rpm. The CPU temperature did get an impact (As expected obviously) of about 4-5ºC, which is a fair trade as it is still well within the safe range when both GPU's and the CPU are under full load, and we're still with summer temperatures here and my room averages 28-31ºC ambients.
> Once the summer is over it should be much better, the cards hit as high as 50-55ºC under 99% load, keep in mind though that the fans are only on push config and only run at about 800-900rpm and my room is about ~30ºC when I play games, so I think it's still a very nice deal considering how damn quiet it is. With cards on air they would hit like 65-69ºC but with A LOT more noise, and I really mean A LOT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the A/C turned on and the room set at about 23-24ºC the cards don't seem to go above 44ºC-48ºC, so I expect the temperatures to stay within 40-45ºC once summer is over.
> Love this water cooling world, I regret not joining it earlier, loved it on the CPU when I first installed it on May 2012, now I love it even more with the GPU's added to the loop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's your thoughts on my installation? I had a hard time designing the whole loop and making the rad fit. I had to remove the dust filters to fit the rad, and I'll just buy some magnet strips to place the filters under the case with the magnet strips.


Nice job, neat-its doing a good job because i think that i have a decent rig, and using that as a yardstick, we have the same ambient Mediterranean temperatures, idle temps and load temps,our temps are more or less the same even using A/C.

Just one query: the last few rigs that have been posted in this thread, seem to have reversed mobos, or something similar, what gives?









One last thing-take your pump off your radiator fins (i just noticed that) you will damage your fins, not to mention you are restricting your airflow









I would give you +1 rep, but seeing as you're a senior moderator, you don't need it


----------



## Lazy Bear

I don't like the mounting of your res, or how the pump is, I think you could have put it more neatly inside of your drive bay area, but other than that it is nice and clean.


----------



## bundymania

Look at this beautyqueen now


----------



## simonfredette

nice , it would go great with a set of heatkiller blocks


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> A drainage port is for draining, bleeding is the process of removing air from the system.
> Looks like he doesn't have one, you don't need one, I've never bothered.


QFT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> If you don't have a drain built in your loop, how do you keep from spilling water everywhere when you disassemble it?


As stated above, you really don't have to include a drain in your loop. Yea sure, for some it might make things easier, but most I've seen never look good. It's usually some long piece of tube hanging off of some random location in the loop, and they try to tuck it away nice and neat, but just never fits right and makes the loop kinda sloppy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> It didn't seem to get any attention so there goes me posting it again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished installing the GPU waterblocks last Thursday, gotta love how quiet the whole rig is right now with the fans below 900rpm. The CPU temperature did get an impact (As expected obviously) of about 4-5ºC, which is a fair trade as it is still well within the safe range when both GPU's and the CPU are under full load, and we're still with summer temperatures here and my room averages 28-31ºC ambients.
> Once the summer is over it should be much better, the cards hit as high as 50-55ºC under 99% load, keep in mind though that the fans are only on push config and only run at about 800-900rpm and my room is about ~30ºC when I play games, so I think it's still a very nice deal considering how damn quiet it is. With cards on air they would hit like 65-69ºC but with A LOT more noise, and I really mean A LOT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the A/C turned on and the room set at about 23-24ºC the cards don't seem to go above 44ºC-48ºC, so I expect the temperatures to stay within 40-45ºC once summer is over.
> Love this water cooling world, I regret not joining it earlier, loved it on the CPU when I first installed it on May 2012, now I love it even more with the GPU's added to the loop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's your thoughts on my installation? I had a hard time designing the whole loop and making the rad fit. I had to remove the dust filters to fit the rad, and I'll just buy some magnet strips to place the filters under the case with the magnet strips.


I actually did see that a few pages ago, and had started a multi quote with yours being included, but it never fails I got distracted and scratched the whole thing. Wanted to say it looks great







Is that a 540 rad in there? That's one of my fav mods on those cases.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at this beautyqueen now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at this beautyqueen now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Begone you evil devil!!! I will not be tempted by your goods


----------



## MrBojanglles88

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at this beautyqueen now






damn, if only you didnt have to use fans and cover up all that sexy-ness


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> It didn't seem to get any attention so there goes me posting it again.


Total rubbish I would never build a loop like that, you should go back to air!!









How's that for attention??









J/K, nice looking loop but is your pump just sitting on your rad? Probably not ideal mounting position. Could you maybe mount it under your PSU toward the front of the case with the outlet going right into your rad? Nice tight build otherwise.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alisundoro*
> 
> Nice rig.. Clean build... with black n white combination..
> just wondering, where did you put your drainage port for bleeding the WC?


He has a QDC just like I do and you can simply pull them apart and use a spare set with a length of tube to drain the loop. Works awesome and I don't have to have a T and spare tube laying in my case that could leak or takes up room. To bleed he has the G1/4 port on the top of the res.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBojanglles88*
> 
> damn, if only you didnt have to use fans and cover up all that sexy-ness


Just make the whole case airtight and have a bunch of fans mounted everywhere BUT on the rad so that air will go through it by pressure differential.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at this beautyqueen now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OMG I want one of those! Too bad all those pretty fins get covered up by a ugly old fan!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> OMG I want one of those! Too bad all those pretty fins get covered up by a ugly old fan!


those fins should be covered with these sexy thangs..


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> If you don't have a drain built in your loop, how do you keep from spilling water everywhere when you disassemble it?


With my old loop I just personally just take the lid off my res and pour it out. With my new loop I have to undo the lid, point the input pipe in the top of the res into a jug with the pumps running till the res is empty, then I blow into the top pipe to push all the coolant into the res and pour it out. It's kinda complicated but it's my method. Also you can't have a drain loop that's pointing downwards with Aurora because all the particles will collect in it.


----------



## jagz

Just finished expanding loop into a Phobya Radiator stand


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> those fins should be covered with these sexy thangs..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What fan is that ?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> What fan is that ?


Noiseblocker eLoop.

they're not available in the US yet, they gotta presale on a couple german sites but my eye is set on those for my next mini-itx build.

they're amazing.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Noiseblocker eLoop.
> they're not available in the US yet, they gotta presale on a couple german sites but my eye is set on those for my next mini-itx build.
> they're amazing.


They look incredible !! ... If they not even available in the US yet then the chances they will hit my country suck ... Gentle Typhoons already run at almost 250 bucks a fan ... I would hate to see these ... ... Would love one for the 120 Monsta I may be getting though


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nice job, neat-its doing a good job because i think that i have a decent rig, and using that as a yardstick, we have the same ambient Mediterranean temperatures, idle temps and load temps,our temps are more or less the same even using A/C.
> Just one query: the last few rigs that have been posted in this thread, seem to have reversed mobos, or something similar, what gives?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One last thing-take your pump off your radiator fins (i just noticed that) you will damage your fins, not to mention you are restricting your airflow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would give you +1 rep, but seeing as you're a senior moderator, you don't need it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I don't like the mounting of your res, or how the pump is, I think you could have put it more neatly inside of your drive bay area, but other than that it is nice and clean.


I've had the pump in the drive bays before and I took it away because I didn't like the hard drives absorbing all that vibration from the pump.









Not to mention it made a lot more noise there. The rad fins are fine, I used foam below the pump and fins will not be damaged.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> QFT
> As stated above, you really don't have to include a drain in your loop. Yea sure, for some it might make things easier, but most I've seen never look good. It's usually some long piece of tube hanging off of some random location in the loop, and they try to tuck it away nice and neat, but just never fits right and makes the loop kinda sloppy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually did see that a few pages ago, and had started a multi quote with yours being included, but it never fails I got distracted and scratched the whole thing. Wanted to say it looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a 540 rad in there? That's one of my fav mods on those cases.
> Whoa


Yes it is a 540mm rad, it is a MONSTER!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> Total rubbish I would never build a loop like that, you should go back to air!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's that for attention??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J/K, nice looking loop but is your pump just sitting on your rad? Probably not ideal mounting position. Could you maybe mount it under your PSU toward the front of the case with the outlet going right into your rad? Nice tight build otherwise.


There's no way I can place the pump anywhere else right now, that's the best place it can be at in this case.


----------



## kkorky

*Noiseblocker ELOOP B12 HP*

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16921/fan-1051/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-PS_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_400_-_1500_RPM_Coming_Soon.html

Uk site :http://forums.kustompcs.co.uk/showthread.php?p=499256

You can buy them here-this page was able to be translated







:http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.alternate.de%2Fhtml%2Fproduct%2FNoiseblocker%2FeLoop_B12-PS%2F1023614%2F%3F&act=url


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> They look incredible !! ... If they not even available in the US yet then the chances they will hit my country suck ... Gentle Typhoons already run at almost 250 bucks a fan ... I would hate to see these ... ... Would love one for the 120 Monsta I may be getting though


oops was going to link to FrozenCPU but was beaten to it.lol.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Nice find kkorky & LuckyNumber13 (for me it will be $60 for 1 which is about R500)


----------



## mandrix

Easy access drain between outside pump and bottom rad, I just thread in a fitting with tubing attached. Click for larger pics.

New translucent gray/ white front cover for the Switch:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

1 down....2 to go.


----------



## derickwm

Hurry up.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Easy access drain between outside pump and bottom rad, I just thread in a fitting with tubing attached. Click for larger pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New translucent gray/ white front cover for the Switch:


A drain that fits the build well, nice job


----------



## Bouf0010

just placed an order last night for a build im doing for a friend - although its not my stuff im still excited to get it all together









he already bought an 8150 (against my advice lol), asus crosshair V and 2x 7970s

heres the watercooling parts

Dear Kevin Bouffard,

thank you for your purchase!

Your ordered following products:
10 x Alphacool 13mm (1/2") barbed fitting G1/4 with O-Ring "FatBoy" - 63305
$ 30.80 *

2 x Alphacool NexXxoS ATXP ATI 7970/50 series V2 - polished - copper 12553
$ 207.50 *

1 x Alphacool VPP655 - OT12 (G1/2" Außengewinde) 49052
$ 98.81 *

1 x Watercool HK CPU AM2/AM3 Rev.3 10125
$ 75.22 *

1 x variable SLI/Crossfire VID connection nipple G1/4' - 2 Slot - bl 64096
$ 8.63 *

1 x Phobya Xtreme NOVA 1080 Radiator Bundle mit 9x Phobya G-Silent 1 35216
$ 172.93 *

4 x 1m Tygon R3603 tubing 11,2/8mm (5/16"ID) clear 58004
$ 23.16 *

1 x XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25ö Reservoir for Laing D5 45232
$ 74.11 *

1 x Sales & Shipping Tax / Customs fee 13% 96051
$ 91.93 *

Sub-Total:$ 783.09 *

UPS Express Saver DDP (72h) (Shipping to CA: (1 x 9.97 kg)):$ 16.00 *

Total:$ 799.08 *

let me know what you guys think!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Massive overkill on the rad.

I like.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> *Noiseblocker ELOOP B12 HP*
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16921/fan-1051/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-PS_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_400_-_1500_RPM_Coming_Soon.html
> Uk site :http://forums.kustompcs.co.uk/showthread.php?p=499256
> You can buy them here-this page was able to be translated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.alternate.de%2Fhtml%2Fproduct%2FNoiseblocker%2FeLoop_B12-PS%2F1023614%2F%3F&act=url


Wow, these would be a great looking replacement for my current NB's (though there's really nothing wrong with the ones I have)...

Speaking of replacing my fans, I wish Corsair would make a 140mm version of its SP fans. They only make the AF's in that size which seems silly to me...


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Massive overkill on the rad.
> I like.


o...ver....kill? my dictionary of awesomeness says it doesnt exist lol

yeah we went big on the rad for future expansion and silence


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Easy access drain between outside pump and bottom rad, I just thread in a fitting with tubing attached. Click for larger pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New translucent gray/ white front cover for the Switch:


Looking good...been following your build log too.








Now that you have that acrylic compartment all sorted out, your acrylic working skills should be pretty solid. So I will take a compartment just like that for my Switch810..how much? LOL


----------



## Lazy Bear

So I'm adding a second pump to my loop, and I'm going to use an EK dual DDC top, but I'm going from a dual bay FrozenQ res to this top, so how should I go about the tubing? I was thinking of just using Bitspower rotaries, because I want the pump and res to stay in the drive bay area. What exactly do I need to do this?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## samoth777

Guys, I should have my parts soon including 2 radiators -

the HardwareLabs Black Ice GT Stealth 240mm XFLOW
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Hardware-Labs-Black-Ice-GT-Stealth-240mm-XFLOW-Radiator--GTS240-XFLOW-pid-13600.html

and the EK XT 240
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/radiators/ek-coolstram-xt/ek-coolstream-rad-xt-240.html.

The BlackIce has 30 FPI fin density and the XT has 11 FPI. The XT is thicker by 17mm at 47mm thick. I have a pair of Corsair SP120 high performance fans, amongst a bunch of other random fans. In terms of maximizing its high static pressure potential, which rad should I have my high static pressure SP120s on?


----------



## Hatefly

Only a few more days to go before I can add my one pics! Thanks for all the great ideas folks.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

what is the main difference between the FPI of a thick rad or a thin rad ... (apart from the obvious, there are more or less fins)

How is the cooling performance of the Magicool Dual 180


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Guys, I should have my parts soon including 2 radiators -
> the HardwareLabs Black Ice GT Stealth 240mm XFLOW
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Hardware-Labs-Black-Ice-GT-Stealth-240mm-XFLOW-Radiator--GTS240-XFLOW-pid-13600.html
> and the EK XT 240
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/radiators/ek-coolstram-xt/ek-coolstream-rad-xt-240.html.
> The BlackIce has 30 FPI fin density and the XT has 11 FPI. The XT is thicker by 17mm at 47mm thick. I have a pair of Corsair SP120 high performance fans, amongst a bunch of other random fans. In terms of maximizing its high static pressure potential, which rad should I have my high static pressure SP120s on?


I'd put the better fans on the BI radiator and the random fans on the XT strictly due to the fact that the BI has a much high FPI


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> what is the main difference between the FPI of a thick rad or a thin rad ... (apart from the obvious, there are more or less fins)
> 
> How is the cooling performance of the Magicool Dual 180


A higher FPI means more surface area for heat to be dissipated off of. It also creates more of an air restriction so fans with a higher static pressure are required.

The greater surface area means that for the same amount of airflow through a RAD, it gets rid of more heat.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> A higher FPI means more surface area for heat to be dissipated off of. It also creates more of an air restriction so fans with a higher static pressure are required.
> 
> The greater surface area means that for the same amount of airflow through a RAD, it gets rid of more heat.


Ok but then how does radiator size/thickness factor into it when checking FPI ... ... The black Ice 240 has 30FPI the magicool only has 13FPI ... does that mean the Black Ice 240 will out perform a 360rad ?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Ok but then how does radiator size/thickness factor into it when checking FPI ... ... The black Ice 240 has 30FPI the magicool only has 13FPI ... does that mean the Black Ice 240 will out perform a 360rad ?


That's where tedious math comes into play. You'd have to find the total surface area of fins using FPI, depth, and size(120, 240, etc) then pair it with the correct fans to achieve optimum performance. So based on that a 240 could out perform a 360 given the correct conditions, such as too low of static pressure on a high FPI radiator


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> A higher FPI means more surface area for heat to be dissipated off of. It also creates more of an air restriction so fans with a higher static pressure are required.
> 
> The greater surface area means that for the same amount of airflow through a RAD, it gets rid of more heat.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok but then how does radiator size/thickness factor into it when checking FPI ... ... The black Ice 240 has 30FPI the magicool only has 13FPI ... does that mean the Black Ice 240 will out perform a 360rad ?
Click to expand...

I don't know the exact numbers so I can't give you that answer. I have a pretty good handle on all the characteristics and how they affect cooling performance, just not how to mathematically put them all together.

I can tell you for sure that the Black Ice will need a much higher-end fan than a regular 7-15 FPI Rad and might be a little noisier, but will offer much closer to ambient temperatures.

The thickness of a RAD affects cooling performance much the same way that FPI does. Having longer fin length means again, more surface area for heat to be taken away from. The nice thing about rad thickness is that having longer air channels doesn't affect airflow as much as a high fin count.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

... I think I am 2 stupid to water cool ... lmao ...

All I know is that the SP of my fans is 1.1~2.45mmH2O which is more than enough for a 35mm thick Rad with 13fpi ...

I just don't want to spend $100 on a rad when something cheaper would do better ...


----------



## kcuestag

I have used the Magicool Dual 180mm and it does GREAT, could easily handle your i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz and that GTX560.

I now use the Magicool Triple 180mm since I added both GTX680's to the loop, both rads are great and they work nicely with fans at low speed!


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I have used the Magicool Dual 180mm and it does GREAT, could easily handle your i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz and that GTX560.
> I now use the Magicool Triple 180mm since I added both GTX680's to the loop, both rads are great and they work nicely with fans at low speed!


I am actually using your build log as a reference ... haha ... I was going to PM u and ask you for some info but seems I couldn't order my WC stuff (price is ridiculous) I thought I would hold back on the PM until later ...

Could you fit the side panel on without modding your motherboard tray like in that YT vid by Time to live customs (or something like that)


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hurry up.


Hello pot...meet kettle...











Ok...what am I looking at here...


----------



## Alatar

Been ages since I last posted some pics in here so here's some recent and random shots:


----------



## weezymagic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Easy access drain between outside pump and bottom rad, I just thread in a fitting with tubing attached. Click for larger pics.
> 
> New translucent gray/ white front cover for the Switch:


Built or bought front cover?

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Guys, I should have my parts soon including 2 radiators -
> the HardwareLabs Black Ice GT Stealth 240mm XFLOW
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Hardware-Labs-Black-Ice-GT-Stealth-240mm-XFLOW-Radiator--GTS240-XFLOW-pid-13600.html
> and the EK XT 240
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/radiators/ek-coolstram-xt/ek-coolstream-rad-xt-240.html.
> The BlackIce has 30 FPI fin density and the XT has 11 FPI. The XT is thicker by 17mm at 47mm thick. I have a pair of Corsair SP120 high performance fans, amongst a bunch of other random fans. In terms of maximizing its high static pressure potential, which rad should I have my high static pressure SP120s on?


You should use your higher static pressure fan on the denser FPI of (Black Ice) your two rads, the thicker the FPI the more CFM/static pressure is needed to push the air through.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> what is the main difference between the FPI of a thick rad or a thin rad ... (apart from the obvious, there are more or less fins)
> How is the cooling performance of the Magicool Dual 180


Simple -Lower FPI means you are able to use lower speed fans (still with good CFM/Static pressure) in order to get good cooling results-this in turn means less noise.

Higher FPI rads have a denser FPI and so in turn need more powerful fans(higher CFM/static pressure & speed)

A very good all round powerful and quiet at the same time fan, is the Scythe Gentle Typhoon range

Thickness of a rad is generally believed to help with the cooling process more because there is a larger area over which the heat can dissipate

Check out this link for some good info:http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/ ignore the fact that its about 360 rads, were dealing with your FPI query here









Also have a read about fans, it will help you understand CFM/static pressure and the role it plays in conjunction with radiators in the cooling process

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2009/05/05/r2-fan-testing/ and

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/07/r10-fan-testing-bitfenixnoctuasilenxnoiseblockerphobya/

and just in case the next question is about fan orientation ie Push vs Pull check here







:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> 
> Ok...what am I looking at here...


Bottom of a new Aqua Computer tube res. The res has that clear plate in the bottom to prevent bubbles from entering the loop if you use the fountain effect. The three small holes on the left and right are for LED's to light up the res. Large holes are fill / drain. Brass tube down the middle hold the glass res in place and allows for the fountain effect if you use the middle G1/4 hole.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I saw this gear a while ago-being an Aquacomputer xt ultra user, im seriously thinking of swapping out my pump for the new aquacomputer D5 version, that way i would be able to mod my pump with a new head, and a Bitspower 'Bling' body-it will of course still enable me to keep on using my aquasuite software which is brilliant. whilst also increasing overall pump pressure.

As for the Reservoirs, im not sure as yet, i need to get feedback on the amount of noise the fountain 'trickle' effect makes.

Great gear though.


----------



## samoth777

Thanks all for the helpful answers!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Been ages since I last posted some pics in here so here's some recent and random shots:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hardcore cooling, I saw your temperature screenshot in the one mil post thread, whoa


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I have used the Magicool Dual 180mm and it does GREAT, could easily handle your i5 2500k @ 4.8GHz and that GTX560.
> I now use the Magicool Triple 180mm since I added both GTX680's to the loop, both rads are great and they work nicely with fans at low speed!
> 
> 
> 
> I am actually using your build log as a reference ... haha ... I was going to PM u and ask you for some info but seems I couldn't order my WC stuff (price is ridiculous) I thought I would hold back on the PM until later ...
> 
> Could you fit the side panel on without modding your motherboard tray like in that YT vid by Time to live customs (or something like that)
Click to expand...

Too bad you didn't decide on what to get a few weeks ago. I could have brought the stuff down. I'm actually down in you neck of the woods now and leave tomorrow.


----------



## RKTGX95

Hey, does anyone know the FPI of the Phobya Xtreme 200mm rad?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Hey, does anyone know the FPI of the Phobya Xtreme 200mm rad?


8 FPI

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-Xtreme-200mm-Radiator-pid-11843.html


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hardcore cooling, I saw your temperature screenshot in the one mil post thread, whoa


Doesn't stay that low at load though. :/ Or well I can keep load temps at 0C at 4.5ghz or below.

at 5ghz+ this starts happening:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The evap still keeps around -33C. Closer to -30C when you get near to the 5.2-5.3 max stable stuff.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> 8 FPI
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-Xtreme-200mm-Radiator-pid-11843.html


thanks!! now this leads to my next question: would the Bit Fenix Spectre (non Pro) 200mm suffice for it or its a better bet with the pro one? (or this?)


----------



## zoson

Dang those eLoop fans are more expensive than Gentle Typhoons! They better blow AP-00's out of the water!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Dang those eLoop fans are more expensive than Gentle Typhoons! They better blow AP-00's out of the water!


Blow them out of the water in what respect? The eLoop max airflow is 1.645m^3/min and compared to 1.95m^3/min of the AP-00. Static pressure isn't anywhere near that of the AP-00 either. 1.45mmH2O vs 2.87mmH2O. Unless I did the conversion math wrong. Granted the eLoop is at a much lower RPM than the AP-00, but more than double the price of even the complete AP-00.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> thanks!! now this leads to my next question: would the Bit Fenix Spectre (non Pro) 200mm suffice for it or its a better bet with the pro one? (or this?)


Go here lol! :http://www.overclock.net/t/1238581/best-fans-for-a-phobya-200mm-rad

and

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1593960

More 200mm fans:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007998%20600035599&IsNodeId=1&name=200mmhere%27s

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_327_1133

You will get some feedback on various 200mm fans that can be used, but you HAVE to make sure that you have the room for the fan/rad conbo


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Blow them out of the water in what respect? The eLoop max airflow is 1.645m^3/min and compared to 1.95m^3/min of the AP-00. Static pressure isn't anywhere near that of the AP-00 either. 1.45mmH2O vs 2.87mmH2O. Unless I did the conversion math wrong. Granted the eLoop is at a much lower RPM than the AP-00, but more than double the price of even the complete AP-00.


I just helped to provide info









Imo GT all the way-plain and simple.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Go here lol! :http://www.overclock.net/t/1238581/best-fans-for-a-phobya-200mm-rad
> and
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1593960
> More 200mm fans:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007998%20600035599&IsNodeId=1&name=200mmhere%27s
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_327_1133
> You will get some feedback on various 200mm fans that can be used, but you HAVE to make sure that you have the room for the fan/rad conbo


thanks again. i am having a hard time choosing because i have the Antec 1100 and i plan to mount the 200 rad on the top exhaust with the fan internally. in theory, it should just barely fit with a 25mm thick rad (aka Spectre Pro) with the 36mm rad (~62mm total so leaves out 1 mm to spare) but since it is all in theory (and because i will be buying everything from PPCS to ship overseas) i would feel more secure with a 20mm thick fan if it suffices. as i understood 8 FPI is low enough for any fan with low SP so it should work...


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> thanks again. i am having a hard time choosing because i have the Antec 1100 and i plan to mount the 200 rad on the top exhaust with the fan internally. in theory, it should just barely fit with a 25mm thick rad (aka Spectre Pro) with the 36mm rad (~62mm total so leaves out 1 mm to spare) but since it is all in theory (and because i will be buying everything from PPCS to ship overseas) i would feel more secure with a 20mm thick fan if it suffices. as i understood 8 FPI is low enough for any fan with low SP so it should work...


Yes 8FPI is quite low, ergo most of the 200mm fans will suffice, don't make the mistake of mistaking a 200mm fans lower rpm as being substandard, 200mm fans have more CFM than one would think-i would stick with the fan you have, and try mounting the rad/fan combo and see how it goes, check your temps, if they are good, great, if you are not satisfied or you are having clearance problems, then look the wide list of 200mm fans that i linked, and find one that his thinner (you may have to forgo some CFM though)-also e mail the retailers and ask them what they would suggest, most retailers are very helpful- then you could start looking for a new 200mm fan.
Keep your money for now.


----------



## frankth3frizz

I really want to do a custom loop for my system. Should I keep the 650D and do it in there? or should I sell this case and buy a new one?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankth3frizz*
> 
> I really want to do a custom loop for my system. Should I keep the 650D and do it in there? or should I sell this case and buy a new one?


Whats your budget? And what are you wanting to put under water?

If its just the cpu keep the 650D


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Yes 8FPI is quite low, ergo most of the 200mm fans will suffice, don't make the mistake of mistaking a 200mm fans lower rpm as being substandard, 200mm fans have more CFM than one would think-i would stick with the fan you have, and try mounting the rad/fan combo and see how it goes, check your temps, if they are good, great, if you are not satisfied or you are having clearance problems, then look the wide list of 200mm fans that i linked, and find one that his thinner (you may have to forgo some CFM though)-also e mail the retailers and ask them what they would suggest, most retailers a very helpful- then you could start looking for a new 200mm fan.
> Keep your money for now.


firstly, i don't have a fan for that. (i have the stock antec one but its 30mm thick so it is a big no no)
secondly, i don't really have anything at hand to check those things, i.e. i'm just planning my future loop . ( while my kuhler 920 cries seeing my plans)
thirdly, i never thought of asking the retailers. that is very helpful, (+rep, again) i shall try it. do you think that i can Ask PPCS if they can check if the 200mm rad+ 25mm fan can be fit in the 1100?

btw, if i'll go on a 20mm thick fan this looks promising by specs (76 cfm, though they don't look completely true because of the <18dbA) but the fan holes look a bit problematic. if not then the Spectre (non pro) should suffice at 47 cfm and 0.41 mmH2O (or does it?)


----------



## LuckyNumber13

and it grows...
finally got my new case for my 2nd build.
what a beast.and only 5 bucks to ship it here..thanx NCIX..
now i'm wondering if i should put the RX480 on the top
like i wanted to or if i should just go with the slimmer EX480.
in everyone else's opinion would i really even see a noticeable(5 or 10 degrees + higher)
performance drop between the 2? i already have a RX360 going on
the bottom of my case so i'm thinking the RX480 might be overkill.
but on the other hand i do like to OC. lol.
Also i'm thinking of changing my res. i might just buy a 160mm
to go inside instead of a 250mm like i have already.
just seems like it might look cramped with the 250. yet
again if i choose the RX480 i'm cramped and if i choose the
EX480 i'm kinda ok.
lol..decisions decisions.....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> thanks again. i am having a hard time choosing because i have the Antec 1100 and i plan to mount the 200 rad on the top exhaust with the fan internally. in theory, it should just barely fit with a 25mm thick rad (aka Spectre Pro) with the 36mm rad (~62mm total so leaves out 1 mm to spare) but since it is all in theory (and because i will be buying everything from PPCS to ship overseas) i would feel more secure with a 20mm thick fan if it suffices. as i understood 8 FPI is low enough for any fan with low SP so it should work...
> 
> 
> 
> Yes 8FPI is quite low, ergo most of the 200mm fans will suffice, don't make the mistake of mistaking a 200mm fans lower rpm as being substandard, 200mm fans have more CFM than one would think-i would stick with the fan you have, and try mounting the rad/fan combo and see how it goes, check your temps, if they are good, great, if you are not satisfied or you are having clearance problems, then look the wide list of 200mm fans that i linked, and find one that his thinner (you may have to forgo some CFM though)-also e mail the retailers and ask them what they would suggest, most retailers a very helpful- then you could start looking for a new 200mm fan.
> Keep your money for now.
Click to expand...

Good advice kkorky. Too many people knock what they don't understand and just assume that the low RPM of the larger fans means that they are dogs for Cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> firstly, i don't have a fan for that. (i have the stock antec one but its 30mm thick so it is a big no no)
> secondly, i don't really have anything at hand to check those things, i.e. i'm just planning my future loop . ( while my kuhler 920 cries seeing my plans)
> thirdly, i never thought of asking the retailers. that is very helpful, (+rep, again) i shall try it. do you think that i can Ask PPCS if they can check if the 200mm rad+ 25mm fan can be fit in the 1100?
> btw, if i'll go on a 20mm thick fan this looks promising by specs (76 cfm, though they don't look completely true because of the <18dbA) but the fan holes look a bit problematic. if not then the Spectre (non pro) should suffice at 47 cfm and 0.41 mmH2O (or does it?)


Mate of course you can ask PPCS, in fact you can ask any retailer anything at all you need to find out, don't be embarrassed, i can guarantee you that they have heard much more ridiculous questions than your mind can fathom









The imparting of information and help is a very important part of the retailer's resume, its worth more to them to answer a query no matter how simple, than to 'fob' you off-the point being is that they want you to become a repeat customer









Also if they are unfriendly or just plain unhelpful, you get moaning gits like me that will expose them whenever possible, so arm yourself with a load of questions and fire away. (the same applies to if you don't call but e mail them instead)

As for the fan that you linked, it's fine, low Db, and good CFM- i don't like the red leds(but that's just me), in fact i have a Coolermaster Highflow 200mm fan with on/off cable that i dragged out as soon as i bought my Haf 922, and it has been in the case box ever since lol.

With regards to the fine point info you want, im sorry but i suggest that you ask the retailers themselves, i dont like to give advice or information when i am not 100% sure of what i am saying.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*





Good advice kkorky. Too many people knock what they don't understand and just assume that the low RPM of the larger fans means that they are dogs for Cooling.








~Ceadder








i must agree also







.. and a larger cfm is not always better also. i have 3- 5400rpm fans
which kick out the CFM like no tomorrow on full blast which are
on my top rad (rookie mistake buying those) and have to keep them on the
lowest (and i can not stress enough) lowest setting cuz otherwise it
sounds like an engine revving.. has anyone ever seen the movie Scanners?
yeah ..my fans full blast will blow your head up..lol..


----------



## Lazy Bear

So I'm adding a second pump to my loop, and I'm going to use an EK dual DDC top, but I'm going from a dual bay FrozenQ res to this top, so how should I go about the tubing? I was thinking of just using Bitspower rotaries, because I want the pump and res to stay in the drive bay area. What exactly do I need to do this?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> i must agree also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. and a larger cfm is not always better also. i have 3- 5400rpm fans
> which kick out the CFM like no tomorrow on full blast which are
> on my top rad (rookie mistake buying those) and have to keep them on the
> lowest (and i can not stress enough) lowest setting cuz otherwise it
> sounds like an engine revving.. has anyone ever seen the movie Scanners?
> yeah ..my fans full blast will blow your head up..lol..


Try using an H80 fully ramped up when gaming, then tell me about noise


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good advice kkorky. Too many people knock what they don't understand and just assume that the low RPM of the larger fans means that they are dogs for Cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks mate, i have to admit that i was one of those till i joined the forum, and the moral of the story is: read and learn from all of the other people who have been on here before you, and who know what they are talking about.
We all started of as noobs, though looking at some rigs, one can be forgiven for thinking that some modders were born in a PC case.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Try using an H80 fully ramped up when gaming, then tell me about noise


I see that and raise you 6 38mm ultra kazes at 3000 rpm...you really can't belive the noise but nothing short of Deltas match CFM.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Try using an H80 fully ramped up when gaming, then tell me about noise


lol..check out this clip... and i have 3 of those..
my new build i'm currently doing will be Much Much quieter..
i am making sure of it...lol..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlDv0XL5bv8


----------



## mandrix

Thanks PCModderMike, couldn't get your quote in for some reason....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Looking good...been following your build log too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that you have that acrylic compartment all sorted out, your acrylic working skills should be pretty solid. So I will take a compartment just like that for my Switch810..how much? LOL


Why miss the fun of doing it yourself?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weezymagic*
> 
> Built or bought front cover?
> Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


All the mods on my rigs are my own.
There's a write up on the cover just posted today in my build log.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> and it grows...
> finally got my new case for my 2nd build.
> what a beast.and only 5 bucks to ship it here..thanx NCIX..
> now i'm wondering if i should put the RX480 on the top
> like i wanted to or if i should just go with the slimmer EX480.
> in everyone else's opinion would i really even see a noticeable(5 or 10 degrees + higher)
> performance drop between the 2? i already have a RX360 going on
> the bottom of my case so i'm thinking the RX480 might be overkill.
> but on the other hand i do like to OC. lol.
> Also i'm thinking of changing my res. i might just buy a 160mm
> to go inside instead of a 250mm like i have already.
> just seems like it might look cramped with the 250. yet
> again if i choose the RX480 i'm cramped and if i choose the
> EX480 i'm kinda ok.
> lol..decisions decisions.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ok tell you what the solution is, send me the BP pump Bling and the head.

As for your rads, i have both EX and RX rads in my system-apart from the performance of the rads that you probably already know about, the question is space, and aesthetics, i personally would give up a few degrees for a much cleaner look, the few degrees difference between the RX and EX will not fry your CPU/GPU









Nice collection of stuff mate, now, at the risk of asking a noob question, im still going to ask:

what is it with all these cases that i have been seeing lately with the HDD cages etc on the left side? How does that work, can you swap around the mobo grounding plate and the cages? And why am i of the opinion that its some sort of new fashion statement for cases?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Try using an H80 fully ramped up when gaming, then tell me about noise


Please, call me when you've run a few Delta Mega Fasts @ 7000rpm in your system


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Ok tell you what the solution is, send me the BP pump Bling and the head.
> Nice collection of stuff mate, now, at the risk of asking a noob question, im still going to ask: what is it with all these cases that i have been seeing lately with the HDD cages etc on the left side? How does that work, can you swap around the mobo grounding plate and the cages? And why am i of the opinion that its some sort of new fashion statement for cases?


Its BTX and is,as I like to think,the correct way up.


----------



## bundymania

New rads from watercool sighted - available soon

















































































..with black powder coated or stainless steel side panels (LT or LTX versions)


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Please, call me when you've run a few Delta Mega Fasts @ 7000rpm in your system


Those fans are not for cooling, the are for VTOL (look it up if you don't know what i mean)


----------



## InsideJob

Dear god, how can anybody logically use those high rpm fans!?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New rads from watercool sighted - available soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..with black powder coated or stainless steel side panels (LT or LTX versions)


Xmas is coming soon (relatively speaking) tis the season of the new rads methinks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I want 3 of those 480s....they will go nice in my SR2 build.....
About time Watercool did some 120 rads.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its BTX and is,as I like to think,the correct way up.


I just looked up BTX- i didnt even know such a form factor existed, thanks for the info, i have learned something new today (+1 rep)

Question, are you using a BTX mobo, or standard ATX-i know your rig, is the red one, with chrome(?) tubing, and the rest, again the wrong way around


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Ok tell you what the solution is, send me the BP pump Bling and the head.
> As for your rads, i have both EX and RX rads in my system-apart from the performance of the rads that you probably already know about, the question is space, and aesthetics, i personally would give up a few degrees for a much cleaner look, the few degrees difference between the RX and EX will not fry your CPU/GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice collection of stuff mate, now, at the risk of asking a noob question, im still going to ask:
> what is it with all these cases that i have been seeing lately with the HDD cages etc on the left side? How does that work, can you swap around the mobo grounding plate and the cages? And why am i of the opinion that its some sort of new fashion statement for cases?


thanx








It's an R-Atx Case..meaning the handle at the back of the
case (after 4 screws have been removed) can be used to
pull out and flip the motherboard tray 180 degrees.
so if you have it flipped the traditional way then the
HDD cages will be on the right and vice versa for the
R-Atx config which is what i have. i guess it's just preference
this case also has the power supply at the front or back of comp
or both.Just people looking at things in a different way.
i like it..i always try to Zig in my day where i would normally Zag.
makes life interesting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQojz6rGJT8
at 9 mintues she flips it..
i got alot to teach but even more to learn


----------



## mandrix

Sooner or later they are going to get that whole radiator thing figured out, methinks.
Getting some seriously better looking stuff coming out now though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> I just looked up BTX- i didnt even know such a form factor existed, thanks for the info, i have learned something new today (+1 rep)
> Question, are you using a BTX mobo, or standard ATX-i know your rig, is the red one, with chrome(?) tubing, and the rest, again the wrong way around


Yes,that's my rig.

The mobo doesn't change,its just inverted.
ATX and mATX work in a BTX layout case.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,that's my rig.
> The mobo doesn't change,its just inverted.
> ATX and mATX work in a BTX layout case.


Thank you squire







So thats how certain rigs had vid cards 'upside down' etc. its all falling into place now.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> thanx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's an R-Atx Case..meaning the handle at the back of the
> case (after 4 screws have been removed) can be used to
> pull out and flip the motherboard tray 180 degrees.
> so if you have it flipped the traditional way then the
> HDD cages will be on the right and vice versa for the
> R-Atx config which is what i have. i guess it's just preference
> this case also has the power supply at the front or back of comp
> or both.Just people looking at things in a different way.
> i like it..i always try to Zig in my day where i would normally Zag.
> makes life interesting.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQojz6rGJT8
> at 9 mintues she flips it..
> i got alot to teach but even more to learn


Thanks for the further info as well (+1 rep), although i really should be removing rep, because now you have whetted my appetite for such a case, and the NZXT 810 or the Corsair 800D, have competition


----------



## derickwm

I need more rads...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I need more rads...


I do too. 2 420mm radiators just aren't cutting it for my CPU, GPU, and motherboard.


----------



## kkorky

You all need 'help'


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Dear god, how can anybody logically use those high rpm fans!?


If you have a Radiator with an insanely high FPI rating(mine is 30FPI) those are awesome fans if you can stand being deaf in a ten foot radius around your tower.









Imagine having a combined RPM rating of 21k +. You wouldn't hear if a tornado was just outside your back door. Nor would you feel the vibration of it either.







lol

I'm considering modding a 240 to the top of my 932 and doing 4 200s' in Push Pull. Dust maintenance would be easy breasy peasy.









~Ceadder


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New rads from watercool sighted - available soon


Do want!

...But mostly I'm wishing they would release a Heatkiller 4.0 CPU block.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> what is it with all these cases that i have been seeing lately with the HDD cages etc on the left side? How does that work, can you swap around the mobo grounding plate and the cages? And why am i of the opinion that its some sort of new fashion statement for cases?


Another popular case featuring this type of layout in some builds is the Silverstone TJ07. It can be modded to "inverted atx" (it's not btx) quite easily. As an example, the original (and current) Murderbox cases were setup for inverted atx:
www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?213395-Daniel-s-murderbox-with-a-sLight-twist

Some builds I've seen have the video card mounted right under a plexi window in the top of the TJ07, which provides a great view of the card(s).


----------



## s0up2up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> Bottom of a new Aqua Computer tube res. The res has that clear plate in the bottom to prevent bubbles from entering the loop if you use the fountain effect. The three small holes on the left and right are for LED's to light up the res. Large holes are fill / drain. Brass tube down the middle hold the glass res in place and allows for the fountain effect if you use the middle G1/4 hole.


Does anyone know where a link to this is? Me want's

ANd what is this fountain effect?


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Cool little build. Everything stays cool with just that 120? If you're thinking of upgrading, a 660 or 670 should fit, especially with the small reference PCB.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Get a small pcb gtx670 here:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130782
> They have small waterblocks for them now too.


I'll have to save up a bit more but thanks for the link. good to know it will fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> man that is freakin awesome. i've always wanted to do a super small form build like that. much different than my 800d thats forsure LOL


I used to have the corsair 650d, man that thing is huge compared to the sg05.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Nice.
> How are the temps on that thing with such a small radiator? I saw your temps on air in your build log, but didn't see anything about them once you went to water.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> get a bigger rad and remove one fan (or remove both and buy a gt ap-15).Also you can use swiftech apogee drive II and a T elbow as a res.In this way you will get more cooling capacity and save some space


Too late now, I've already crossed my budget. But it's ok because I'm actually very happy with my temps. I bought the ex120 because I was really happy with my previous ex240 and I thought the split fins would help a lot. I don't want to get ap-15s because they are too loud for my liking.

I've only ran some quick tests on the temperatures but from memory I was getting mid 50s for GPU and high 50s on the CPU after about 30min gaming. I'll post the exact numbers in my log when I get home, and photos of progress


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Does anyone know where a link to this is? Me want's
> ANd what is this fountain effect?


Alright mate calm down









Link to the reservoir page:

Start here :http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=7_28

-the fountain effect works by using the centre 1/4 inlet at the bottom of the reservoir which feeds the Brass tube in the middle of the reservoir, the water travels upwards, when it reaches the top, it exits through 8 small holes, culminating in what is described as a mini fountain effect









It may also be lit up with LEDs.

The other gear may also be found in the online shop-it's all Aquacomputer gear-top quality stuff imho.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Does anyone know where a link to this is? Me want's
> ANd what is this fountain effect?


Just for future reference, use spoilers when quoting multiple pictures. Just to note








Looks like kkorky beat me to it








Here's where I found the link which may interest you as well.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1283768/aquacomputer-new-reservoirs-aqualis


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Another popular case featuring this type of layout in some builds is the Silverstone TJ07. It can be modded to "inverted atx" (it's not btx) quite easily. As an example, the original (and current) Murderbox cases were setup for inverted atx:
> www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?213395-Daniel-s-murderbox-with-a-sLight-twist
> Some builds I've seen have the video card mounted right under a plexi window in the top of the TJ07, which provides a great view of the card(s).


That Murderbox is beyond belief!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Just for future reference, use spoilers when quoting multiple pictures. Just to note
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like kkorky beat me to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I found the link which may interest you as well.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1283768/aquacomputer-new-reservoirs-aqualis


He He, the morning shift is all yours mate, im off to get some sleep-i start work in 5 hrs, goodnight


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> He He, the morning shift is all yours mate, im off to get some sleep-i start work in 5 hrs, goodnight


g'night


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> what is the main difference between the FPI of a thick rad or a thin rad ... (apart from the obvious, there are more or less fins)
> How is the cooling performance of the Magicool Dual 180


I guess it depends on what you want to cool with it. I can tell you from personal experience that I used a Magicool *80mm* rad with a 80mm Vantec Tornado hooked up to a PCI-Slot single fan controller - and it kept a Phenom 1055 at 21-24c idle and no more than 51-52 at load. I was using the XSPC X20 Single bay pump/res combo with it. That was all I was cooling with it though, just the CPU. It worked great.


----------



## frankth3frizz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Whats your budget? And what are you wanting to put under water?
> If its just the cpu keep the 650D


Budget would be around $300+money after selling my h100+case if need be.
I want to put my 7970 and my CPU underwater, mostly 7970 just because it runs about 75-80 degrees after gaming for about 3 hours.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You should use your higher static pressure fan on the denser FPI of (Black Ice) your two rads, the thicker the FPI the more CFM/static pressure is needed to push the air through.
> Simple -Lower FPI means you are able to use lower speed fans (still with good CFM/Static pressure) in order to get good cooling results-this in turn means less noise.
> Higher FPI rads have a denser FPI and so in turn need more powerful fans(higher CFM/static pressure & speed)
> A very good all round powerful and quiet at the same time fan, is the Scythe Gentle Typhoon range
> Thickness of a rad is generally believed to help with the cooling process more because there is a larger area over which the heat can dissipate
> Check out this link for some good info:http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/ ignore the fact that its about 360 rads, were dealing with your FPI query here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also have a read about fans, it will help you understand CFM/static pressure and the role it plays in conjunction with radiators in the cooling process
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2009/05/05/r2-fan-testing/ and
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/07/r10-fan-testing-bitfenixnoctuasilenxnoiseblockerphobya/
> and just in case the next question is about fan orientation ie Push vs Pull check here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/


Thanks for the links ... I really appreciate it ... ... I have learnt more from this thread than I have googling water cooling for the last 3 months ...









The only link I had a semi decent knowledge on was the push pull thread ... haha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Too bad you didn't decide on what to get a few weeks ago. I could have brought the stuff down. I'm actually down in you neck of the woods now and leave tomorrow.


Ah man ... I am so unlucky ... sigh ... I swear murphy hates me ... ... But the main reason I didn't order was the fact I put my Varsity funding first ...

Where exactly are/were you ? ...


----------



## samoth777

I started the first step of my setup, mounting the first rad







I went with the EK XTX 240 for the front rad with 2 Phobya Nano-G 12 PWM Silent 1500rpm fans on my modded Corsair 400R. I'm going to use my SP120s on the top rad as you guys suggested







Here are some pics


----------



## s0up2up

Thanks for the help InsideJob and Kkorky, +rep to both of you!

The Res for the murderbox MKII,

Now what size is that?

Gallery here BTW: MurderboxMKII.


----------



## Fonne

Has the new RES from Frozen been posted ?

*FrozenQ PC Mods UV Meteor Light Limited Edition Reservoir*

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17012/ex-res-424/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_UV_Meteor_Light_Limited_Edition_Reservoir_-_UV_Warp_Drive.html


----------



## mandrix

Yikes! Nice but what a price.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Has the new RES from Frozen been posted ?
> *FrozenQ PC Mods UV Meteor Light Limited Edition Reservoir*
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17012/ex-res-424/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_UV_Meteor_Light_Limited_Edition_Reservoir_-_UV_Warp_Drive.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


thats an awful looking res - i would sooner put a mini disco ball in my computer. On the upside maybe those blinding, flashing LEDs will prevent me from seeing EKs new CSQ design.


----------



## hammerforged

Getting a new Asus Maximus V Gene. Whats everyones opinion on mobo cooling? Im considering throwing on a vrm waterblock worth it or not?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> thats an awful looking res - i would sooner put a mini disco ball in my computer. On the upside maybe those blinding, flashing LEDs will prevent me from seeing EKs new CSQ design.


This^^

Specialtech had one of those as a comp prize......six months ago.


----------



## bundymania

Dazmode.com Anatoly made a little vid review from this res. - nice bliiing res but the price suxx


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its BTX and is,as I like to think,the correct way up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,that's my rig.
> The mobo doesn't change,its just inverted.
> ATX and mATX work in a BTX layout case.


BTX is not an upside down ATX layout, the PCI slots are on the other end of the motherboard. An ATX motherboard does not fit in a BTX case etc. The case he uses is just a normal ATX case, with the motherboard mounted upside down.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Lazy Bear

I think I may be the only one that perfers XSPC and EK's rad styles to those awful silver rads.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New rads from watercool sighted - available soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> ..
> ..
> ..with black powder coated or stainless steel side panels (LT or LTX versions)


Here is the link to Watercool:

http://shop.watercool.de/Radiators/HTSF2

HTSF2 4x120 LT
HTSF2 3x120 LT
HTSF2 2x120 LT
HTSF2 1x120 LT

HTSF2 4x120 LTX
HTSF2 3x120 LTX
HTSF2 2x120 LTX
HTSF2 1x120 LTX

Just like the XSPC AX, i really hope there will be a 140mm version


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Just like the XSPC AX, *i really hope there will be a 140mm version*


There is...its called the HTF 4.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> BTX is not an upside down ATX layout, the PCI slots are on the other end of the motherboard. An ATX motherboard does not fit in a BTX case etc. The case he uses is just a normal ATX case, with the motherboard mounted upside down.


You are correct.

Either way,upside down is right way up.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> I started the first step of my setup, mounting the first rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with the EK XTX 240 for the front rad with 2 Phobya Nano-G 12 PWM Silent 1500rpm fans on my modded Corsair 400R. I'm going to use my SP120s on the top rad as you guys suggested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and neat-c'mon hurry up, that way i'll be able to give you rep









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Thanks for the help InsideJob and Kkorky, +rep to both of you!
> The Res for the murderbox MKII,
> Now what size is that?
> Gallery here BTW: MurderboxMKII.


You're welcome mate, my educated guess is that the reservoir is a 400mm (if the case is a full tower) if not, then it's a 250mm reservoir (If its a mini tower), either way they are both 60mm circumference (i read the box's stats and the holder is 60mm







)

But 1200 US (i think) for a box??(add to that import duty for anyone not in the States)
It looks great, but i would rather get given the cash to come up with my own creation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Has the new RES from Frozen been posted ?
> *FrozenQ PC Mods UV Meteor Light Limited Edition Reservoir*
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17012/ex-res-424/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_UV_Meteor_Light_Limited_Edition_Reservoir_-_UV_Warp_Drive.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> thats an awful looking res - i would sooner put a mini disco ball in my computer. On the upside maybe those blinding, flashing LEDs will prevent me from seeing EKs new CSQ design.


I was looking at getting a Helix Blue 250 mm Reservoir from one of our Forum members, who has two for sale at a great price, but i didnt pull the trigger because i have read some horror stories about the reservoir having multiple leaks etc(not his, but generally) & secondly im not 100% sure if using such as reservoir changes the tone of a 'semi serious' looking rig to more of a 'fun' type rig


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I think I may be the only one that perfers XSPC and EK's rad styles to those awful silver rads.


Well at least that makes two of us then


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nice and neat-c'mon hurry up, that way i'll be able to give you rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome mate, my educated guess is that the reservoir is a 400mm (if the case is a full tower) if not, then it's a 250mm reservoir (If its a mini tower)
> I was looking at getting a Helix Blue 250 mm Reservoir from one of our Forum members, who has two for sale at a great price, but i didnt pull the trigger because i have read some horror stories about the reservoir having multiple leaks etc(not his, but generally) & secondly im not 100% sure if using such as reservoir changes the tone of a 'semi serious' looking rig to more of a 'fun' type rig


i recently just pulled my frozenq 400mm blue helix out of my rig - the cathode inside melted the plastic tube it was housed in and the water leaked into it, which then shorted out the cathode and blew my inverter. I was able to pull out the helix and mod the res to hold liquid but it just wasnt the same - now i have a nice bitspower multi-z res ready to get installed in its place.


----------



## corysti

Well im currently working on mine and I have a question...Should I go with white compression fittings, silver or black? Everyone is doing black so Im not really wanting to go black.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I personally like sliver or black chrome....


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Well im currently working on mine and I have a question...Should I go with white compression fittings, silver or black? Everyone is doing black so Im not really wanting to go black.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like the white.


----------



## Hatefly

Some leak testing. Passed!


----------



## Cord78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankth3frizz*
> 
> I really want to do a custom loop for my system. Should I keep the 650D and do it in there? or should I sell this case and buy a new one?


I just finished putting my 650D under water. Its got a 2500K and 580 getting wet. Currently using a 140.2 and 120.1 with a fill tube, drain tube and 250ml tube Res. With proper planning you can fit quite a bit of water cooling stuff inside a 650D. I would post a picture but it is currently leak testing and the cable management is a mess from tearing it apart.

To do this week-end: Cable management,,, AGAIN lol


----------



## Roikyou

Question, if your running 3770k with two 680 gtx's. Would one ex360 work with one pump/reservoir or would that be total overkill to have a ex240 just for the cpu and ex360 for the two gpus? would it be better on the same loop (one reservoir and pump) or separate loops (two reservoirs and two pumps)?


----------



## kkorky

Im probably going to regret this, but, i'd would like to throw out there a work in progress, with the aim of getting some ideas for my 'builders block'- id like ideas about possible neater tube re routing (not the cables, i have just put in an order to http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Cables/?sort=bestselling-great store, check it out people)

Possible re positioning of my a) Pump b) my 120 radiator.

Ideally id like to get a cover as in Photo# 3 , ive tried contacting the site the rig was on but no reply-it must also be noted that i do not have the tools to make such a cover, nor are there people who would make such a cover over here without me having to sell my soul or some other part of my anatomy









So im looking for sensible 'outside the box' thinking please









*The rig was like this till a few weeks ago:*



It is a Haf 922 that i modded somewhat, i have 4 x HDDs in a Lian Li drive bay holder. I removed the drive bay cage for less clutter. it was suggested by my wife of all people, that i should re introduce the drive bay cage, and place my pump in the 3.5 bay area-what say you?

If i revert to the above photo, i don't like the clutter of the 120 radiator on the floor (UNLESS OFC I HAD THAT DAMN COVER







)

*My rig is currently setup this way:*



No floor clutter, tubes re routed, 120 radiator mounted in the exhaust fan area, but still the issue of that unsightly (but still kick a** ) pump being visible.

*Ideally something similar to the below photo is what i would like to aim for:*



So, im throwing this out to the community in the hope that i will be able to get some ideas-please feel free to express yourself as you like, even negative criticism is positive at times.

I want to spend as little money as possible, so save for a few fittings and the cables that i need, i would like to avoid expenses (very hard to do when water cooling) and just possibly just re arrange the 'furniture'.

(ofc if i were ever able to get or make a cover that would involve expense).

I will gladly be giving out rep to the helpful and imaginative ideas









*NOTE TO THE HAWKEYED AMONGST YOU*- i am aware of the kink between the gpu and 120 rad, that will be addressed when the extender fitting arrives.

Than you all in advance for your help


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hatefly*
> 
> Some leak testing. Passed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn, you are like reading my mind because you are making the loop which i desire so much to do of my (almost) exact build. (btw, why did you do the tubing between the cpu block to the vrm so long even though you have a 45 deg?)

and a little question to everyone else: would a 240+120 suffice for a 3570k + M5V Block + 7950 (the one in my sig) ?


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Question, if your running 3770k with two 680 gtx's. Would one ex360 work with one pump/reservoir or would that be total overkill to have a ex240 just for the cpu and ex360 for the two gpus? would it be better on the same loop (one reservoir and pump) or separate loops (two reservoirs and two pumps)?


I took a look at Martin's optimizer and I doubt you would be happy with a single 360 if you plan to overclock. If you plan to run stock then you could get close to 10 deg. C on a single 360 if you get a good one.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-and-radiator-optimizer-spreadsheet/

Yes this is only test data, and probably does not have the exact blocks you will run but I believe that a little data up front makes better decisions.

Other people will tell you to just jump in and do it. If you have an unlimited budget, or unlimited time and plenty of cash to pay restocking fees that's probably a workable plan.


----------



## Roikyou

Thanks pgdeaner, interesting read. Seems like a large impact for cpu and two gpus on one 360 and 5 1/4 bay reservoir pump. My thoughts would lean towards using the 240 for the cpu on it's own dedicated loop and the 360 on the two 680's. Another option I guess would be to run the two pumps in series to increase water flow.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Well im currently working on mine and I have a question...Should I go with white compression fittings, silver or black? Everyone is doing black so Im *not really wanting to go black.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Once you go black, you never go back








I couldn't help myself lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Question, if your running 3770k with two 680 gtx's. Would one ex360 work with one pump/reservoir or would that be total overkill to have a ex240 just for the cpu and ex360 for the two gpus? would it be better on the same loop (one reservoir and pump) or separate loops (two reservoirs and two pumps)?


The rule of thumb is a 120 for every block in the loop then an extra 120 on top.
There are no real benefits to running a dual loop,temps dont suffer running as a single loop.
240 + 360 is a nice amount of rad face,i would recommend that.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The rule of thumb is a 120 for every block in the loop then an extra 120 on top.
> There are no real benefits to running a dual loop,temps dont suffer running as a single loop.
> 240 + 360 is a nice amount of rad face,i would recommend that.


Would one reservoir and pump be enough to run that one loop?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Would one reservoir and pump be enough to run that one loop?


Yes.

There is no harm in redundancy tho.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes.
> There is no harm in redundancy tho.


Are you talking about two bays running in serial?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Are you talking about two bays running in serial?


You only need one res,you can run the pumps in serial as you say.
I have set mine this way.


----------



## Roikyou

Guess I left out some details. It would be cheaper to get a second radiator and pump. I ordered an ex240 originally, full kit and was going to return it for the ex360 since I have the nzxt switch 810. I keep increasing the things I want to do as I move along. I have yet to return the 240 and the wheels were turning, thinking about using the 240 and the 360, which would use all the front bays but would be easy to run the two bays in serial, increasing water flow, reservoir and two radiators. Not like I need the bays anyways and I could grab an external cd rom if I wanted for cheap, run usb. If I didnt go two bays (yes, I'd have the extra cpu block block from the second kit), I'll have to keep reading and try to find a second pump to use in that case.


----------



## Swisser

Just switched out my coolant so i thought id snap a few pics and throw them up here.

Sorry for the crappy quality, these were taken with my cell phone.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swisser*
> 
> Just switched out my coolant so i thought id snap a few pics and throw them up here.
> Sorry for the crappy quality, these were taken with my cell phone.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks awesome - i read that you cant run that stuff for very long though, breaks down easily


----------



## Swisser

Well I guess ill see. I always ran DI water but wanted to give something new a try. Wasn't messy and temps seems to be slightly lower but the "red" is definitely more pink with the nano fluid swirl but it still looks good.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> looks awesome - i read that you cant run that stuff for very long though, breaks down easily


This is very true, it's more-so for exhibitions and the like-pastel and X1 are the Mayhem coolants that can be used for an extensive time period, visit here, you will get the facts-looks nice though:

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/

Aurora Quote from Mick himself:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were working on "Aurora 2". this is a long term liquid and will last even in complex loops how ever it will not be out for a long time as we have to give it to testers to run in complex system for long periods of time lol ... Aurora will last a long time if you system is set up to use aurora correctly. This take a little understanding of flow and how aurora works. How ever if you system complex e.g to many blocks ect ect it wont last long at all.
> *Remember Aurora is for show peace and photo work. We do not recommend its use over long periods of time how ever we have had it running now for 1 year in 1 system with no problems. Aurora was never developed for the "normal" user but aurora 2 is being developed for the "normal" user*.


There is a Mayhem's club also you may want to have a look at, it gives alot of useful info (mixing of dyes etc, proper usage)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club


----------



## jagz

Tell me something has to be wrong,

I added an external radiator stand to my existing loop, On the external (a phobya bench edition stand) I have 2 ex360's and a HWlabs Black Ice GTX360. Inside the case I have 1 ex360 & a Phobya G-Changer 240. The loop has 2 pumps (MCP655 & a MCP350), and 2 reservoirs (Phobya Balancer and XSPC Dual Bay)

After adding the 3 additional rads, additional pump, additional res.. My temps are exactly the same (CPU 60c [email protected], GPU 40c [email protected] GPU temp is fine, but I'm not happy about the CPU temp being the same)

Something has to be wrong right? I was under the assumption that the extra rads would bring me closer to ambient, I'm still some 33c over ambient like I was prior.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Tell me something has to be wrong,
> I added an external radiator stand to my existing loop, On the external (a phobya bench edition stand) I have 2 ex360's and a HWlabs Black Ice GTX360. Inside the case I have 1 ex360 & a Phobya G-Changer 240. The loop has 2 pumps (MCP655 & a MCP350), and 2 reservoirs (Phobya Balancer and XSPC Dual Bay)
> After adding the 3 additional rads, additional pump, additional res.. My temps are exactly the same (CPU 60c [email protected], GPU 40c [email protected] GPU temp is fine, but I'm not happy about the CPU temp being the same)
> Something has to be wrong right? I was under the assumption that the extra rads would bring me closer to ambient, I'm still some 33c over ambient like I was prior.


Remount the block.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Remount the block.


I thought about this, I'll try. So amirite? I definitely should not have the same temps after adding all of this..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> I was looking at getting a Helix Blue 250 mm Reservoir from one of our Forum members, who has two for sale at a great price, but i didnt pull the trigger because i have read some horror stories about the reservoir having multiple leaks etc(not his, but generally) & secondly im not 100% sure if using such as reservoir changes the tone of a 'semi serious' looking rig to more of a 'fun' type rig


I'm not currently running CCL in my Helix Red 250mm but the only leaks I ever had was when I pulled it apart to clean it. I didn't make sure the helice was lined up correctly and I wanted to be able to get back into it easier than when I separated the caps from the tube so I didn't crank on the caps. So the coolant wasn't flowing as well as one would expect and because there were self imposed obstacles for the coolant to flow through, it started trickling out the top cap and bubbling up around the top of the bottom cap. So if you ever have one apart I recommend making absolutely certain that the openings line up exactly with the ports or you'll have issues. I also wrapped one circuit of PTFE on each end of the tube and made sure that it was handtight + 1/4 turn. Leaks solved. I still have to replace the CCL, but it's mostly a cost thing that has kept me from doing so since I have to purchase an 8" CCL that fits the lighting scheme that I run. Although I may do purple or UV to make the tubing glow and just add a couple more Red light strands to keep things red.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Im probably going to regret this, but, i'd would like to throw out there a work in progress, with the aim of getting some ideas for my 'builders block'- id like ideas about possible neater tube re routing (not the cables, i have just put in an order to http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Cables/?sort=bestselling-great store, check it out people)
> Possible re positioning of my a) Pump b) my 120 radiator.
> Ideally id like to get a cover as in Photo# 3 , ive tried contacting the site the rig was on but no reply-it must also be noted that i do not have the tools to make such a cover, nor are there people who would make such a cover over here without me having to sell my soul or some other part of my anatomy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So im looking for sensible 'outside the box' thinking please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The rig was like this till a few weeks ago:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Haf 922 that i modded somewhat, i have 4 x HDDs in a Lian Li drive bay holder. I removed the drive bay cage for less clutter. it was suggested by my wife of all people, that i should re introduce the drive bay cage, and place my pump in the 3.5 bay area-what say you?
> If i revert to the above photo, i don't like the clutter of the 120 radiator on the floor (UNLESS OFC I HAD THAT DAMN COVER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> *My rig is currently setup this way:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No floor clutter, tubes re routed, 120 radiator mounted in the exhaust fan area, but still the issue of that unsightly (but still kick a** ) pump being visible.
> *Ideally something similar to the below photo is what i would like to aim for:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, im throwing this out to the community in the hope that i will be able to get some ideas-please feel free to express yourself as you like, even negative criticism is positive at times.
> I want to spend as little money as possible, so save for a few fittings and the cables that i need, i would like to avoid expenses (very hard to do when water cooling) and just possibly just re arrange the 'furniture'.
> (ofc if i were ever able to get or make a cover that would involve expense).
> I will gladly be giving out rep to the helpful and imaginative ideas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOTE TO THE HAWKEYED AMONGST YOU*- i am aware of the kink between the gpu and 120 rad, that will be addressed when the extender fitting arrives.
> Than you all in advance for your help


Well....making a cover doesn't have to be expensive. The cheapest route I know of, and which I first did in my Switch, is to get some sheet metal and some 1/16" aluminum angle or "L"s and just paint it and screw it together. If you get the drill size right and don't overly stress the holes, you can even thread a #6-32 (or similar metric size) screw into the sheet metal/angle. Or better yet pick up a single tap/drill combo but that of course involves more cost. Basically you could make the side piece one or two piece, and make the top at least two piece for ease of access underneath.
Probably screw angle right to the mobo side of the case and on the open side, cut/bend to 90* the ends of the aluminum angle and screw to the each end of the case. Depending on where you are and what you have access to you could get the cover done for < $30.00 plus or minus cost of paint. Or if you can find a good aluminum road sign not being used........ I've used that too.








I now prefer acrylic but metal is relatively cheap and easy to work with given you can borrow a jigsaw, metal grade fine tooth blade, and a file. Large hardware stores in US carry small sheet metal and angle, dunno about other places since I haven't been abroad in many years.

I need to get back on my HAF 922, it's been neglected since I got the Switch. I have a RX240 in top and a bay res, Raystorm block.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Remount the block.


Didn't help. Same temps.

I wonder if my MCP655 is having issues getting though 4 360mm rads & a QDC before getting to my CPU block. Hmm.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Didn't help. Same temps.
> I wonder if my MCP655 is having issues getting though 4 360mm rads & a QDC before getting to my CPU block. Hmm.


Research time








Always new things to learn when it comes to this stuff.. I still don't even have a custom loop yet but I'm learning so much reading this thread that when I get to it I feel I will be more then ready







Wish I had the answer for you. Sounds like maybe pump placement could definitely be an issue as you sir have ALOT of rad space to pump through.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

In March I decided to do a full custom loop for my rig. I knew absolutely NOTHING about water cooling at the time. After two months of constant research in this thread and on Youtube I felt like I had already built several water cooled rigs! This is such a great resource for noobs and almost any question you have has been answered here or will be answered shortly....


----------



## Cord78

So as promised here are some pictures taken with my poor Iphone. Sorry for the quality. Once it is all cable managed and tweaked some more I will take better pictures.

Currently idles at 31C and when folding hits 68C with an OC of 4.6ghz so I am fairly happy with it.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> In March I decided to do a full custom loop for my rig. I knew absolutely NOTHING about water cooling at the time. After two months of constant research in this thread and on Youtube I felt like I had already built several water cooled rigs! This is such a great resource for noobs and almost any question you have has been answered here or will be answered shortly....


I researched for MONTHS before actually buying my first water-cooling part. It avoids many mistakes, especially costly ones. Always good to learn from other's mistakes.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Well....making a cover doesn't have to be expensive. The cheapest route I know of, and which I first did in my Switch, is to get some sheet metal and some 1/16" aluminum angle or "L"s and just paint it and screw it together. If you get the drill size right and don't overly stress the holes, you can even thread a #6-32 (or similar metric size) screw into the sheet metal/angle. Or better yet pick up a single tap/drill combo but that of course involves more cost. Basically you could make the side piece one or two piece, and make the top at least two piece for ease of access underneath.
> Probably screw angle right to the mobo side of the case and on the open side, cut/bend to 90* the ends of the aluminum angle and screw to the each end of the case. Depending on where you are and what you have access to you could get the cover done for < $30.00 plus or minus cost of paint. Or if you can find a good aluminum road sign not being used........ I've used that too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now prefer acrylic but metal is relatively cheap and easy to work with given you can borrow a jigsaw, metal grade fine tooth blade, and a file. Large hardware stores in US carry small sheet metal and angle, dunno about other places since I haven't been abroad in many years.
> I need to get back on my HAF 922, it's been neglected since I got the Switch. I have a RX240 in top and a bay res, Raystorm block.


Hi and thanks for your reply-to cut a long story short, after reading your reply, i decided 'ditch the metal idea, and go for acrylic' so ive been looking online and there are a number of online retailers that sell and cut acrylic sheets to custom sizes, and they are very cheap-the problem is i don't even know where to start and what measurements to give, and where to take them from. what sort of anchoring will i use-you see i can take apart a case and do stuff like that, i can paint/sand etc, but for the love of god, i cant even draw a straight line with a ruler







. I can envisage 2 or 4 sheets, 2 being stuck in a L shape like you mentioned, or 4 sheets, also stuck together to give 2 L shapes, the idea being that i cover my PSU, the lower fan-or my 120 rad if i place it on the floor-i can drag the sheet all the way to my 200mm fan(L-R), and just place the pump on top, but these are all vague ideas floating around in my head. I was never artistic, and although i find the mechanics of assembling a rig easy etc, the custom area is FAR beyond me.

http://www.plasticstockist.com/Default.aspx

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clear-Plastic-Sheet-Plexiglass-Acrylic-Sheet-Perspex-Plastic-Sheet-/220962749371

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Sheet-Plastics-Suppliers?_trksid=p4340.l2563

+1 rep for your advice-ty


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm not currently running CCL in my Helix Red 250mm but the only leaks I ever had was when I pulled it apart to clean it. I didn't make sure the helice was lined up correctly and I wanted to be able to get back into it easier than when I separated the caps from the tube so I didn't crank on the caps. So the coolant wasn't flowing as well as one would expect and because there were self imposed obstacles for the coolant to flow through, it started trickling out the top cap and bubbling up around the top of the bottom cap. So if you ever have one apart I recommend making absolutely certain that the openings line up exactly with the ports or you'll have issues. I also wrapped one circuit of PTFE on each end of the tube and made sure that it was handtight + 1/4 turn. Leaks solved. I still have to replace the CCL, but it's mostly a cost thing that has kept me from doing so since I have to purchase an 8" CCL that fits the lighting scheme that I run. Although I may do purple or UV to make the tubing glow and just add a couple more Red light strands to keep things red.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks as always mate-you have helped me make my mind up-unfortunately, the pendelum is way over to the 'Nay' vs 'Aye' side when it comes to getting a helix reservoir-far too many people have problems, albiet small ones- ok that idea knocked on the head









+1 rep for your feedback/info on the reservoir-thanks.


----------



## corysti

I am pissed! I put my fans on my radiator today and I used 30mm long screws and took my time and then figured I would run water in it and I noticed there was a leak at the bottom. I looked and I can't see how a screw could've damaged it since I used the screws ek told me too on with the 25 mm fan. I'm not sure if the unit I got had a leak in it already and not sure if performance pc will take care of me or not.


----------



## protzman

doubt it they will try and say it was your fault. tho i do love ppcs, so you might have a chance.
the screws i got with my ek rads also would touch the fins, but i went out and bout washers for every hole (40 in all) for ike 45 cents and now they arent even close to the fins and i can rest at ease.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> I am pissed! I put my fans on my radiator today and I used 30mm long screws and took my time and then figured I would run water in it and I noticed there was a leak at the bottom. I looked and I can't see how a screw could've damaged it since I used the screws ek told me too on with the 25 mm fan. I'm not sure if the unit I got had a leak in it already and not sure if performance pc will take care of me or not.


Im sorry to hear that, but here is some advice for the future, if you are not sure that your radiator mounting screws are too long, just place a credit card under an easy to reach part of the radiator screw hole and screw in your screw as tightly as it will go, then loosen it, if there is a mark on the card, your screw is too long and your radiator remains undamaged









Nevertheless feign innocence and RMA the rad, after all they sent you a faulty one


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> doubt it they will try and say it was your fault. tho i do love ppcs, so you might have a chance.
> the screws i got with my ek rads also would touch the fins, but i went out and bout washers for every hole (40 in all) for ike 45 cents and now they arent even close to the fins and i can rest at ease.


Yes, exactly, i also use black washers to be 100% sure.


----------



## corysti

Well i tested to make sure the screws werent too long and after screwing the fan down I still have like a mm of clearance left so Im pretty sure the one I had was faulty. Honeslty it looked like its been used once. It had scratches near the screw holes to begin with and the gold color was starting to show around the barb fittings area.

Well i just read performance pcs return policy and I have a feeling it would take a months to get anything back so I guess I will try to come up with the money to buy another one. Does anyone have a used 240mm rad that they want to get rid of?


----------



## protzman

Try your luck with performance pc's, they are great tho this is kinda a sketchy situation, as they could easily blame you. Just say you leak tested it before you mounted it and it leaked.

When i first was ordering my first wc'ing stuff in the spring i got a set of swiftech rads ( a 120 and 360 ) and for the love of (deity) i could not get ANY 120 mm fans to mount all 4 screw holes. i explained, they replied and said they couldnt replace them directly becaus it had been more than 30 days (still havent finished my build, just been collecting the stuff) so they contacted swftech for me and set up the whole return, swiftech sent me ew ones WHICH WERE MISMATCHED! hahah two different styles of font on the side, and i wasnt having any of that crap but then wehn i tried to mount them they wouldnt line up with my case either.
swiftech was like well we tested it and i was like well... i tested it too and it doesnt work so give me my money back.But swiftech couldnt give me money because i didnt buy it from them so i sent back all rads and they told ppcs to refund me and everyone was happy









i have much respect for ppcs after that. plus their shipping is top notch


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> I am pissed! I put my fans on my radiator today and I used 30mm long screws and took my time and then figured I would run water in it and I noticed there was a leak at the bottom. I looked and I can't see how a screw could've damaged it since I used the screws ek told me too on with the 25 mm fan. I'm not sure if the unit I got had a leak in it already and not sure if performance pc will take care of me or not.


take the fans off, dry the rad out completely, apply some jb weld to the leak spot, wait about 24-48 hours for total curing, enjoy a leak-less radiator


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> take the fans off, dry the rad out completely, apply some jb weld to the leak spot, wait about 24-48 hours for total curing, enjoy a leak-less radiator


just put the jb weld right behind the screw hole tab?


----------



## golfergolfer

Just a quick question would a double 140mm rad (280mm rad) be enough to cool a GTX 680 and a i5 2500K? I don't need super low temps just low enough.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> This is very true, it's more-so for exhibitions and the like-pastel and X1 are the Mayhem coolants that can be used for an extensive time period


The main reason that it wouldn't work for long periods is because the particles fall into dead spots in a loop or slowly but surely get caught in the blocks etc ... ... U can use it for extended periods it just may not look as visually fantastic the whole time ...

The cool thing is that once you are bored with the glitter effect or if you need to clean out your loop ... you can easily reuse the Aurora
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just grab a coffee filter set from you local supermarket and pour it back into the bottle it came with then reuse. This trick is all so excellent to re use Aurora after its done its job. Once its been though the filter the pearl is removed and you end up with a usable normal liquid. if you say have 1 ltr of aurora add a extra 25% Di or our ultra Pure H20 water to it and it becomes X1.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> just put the jb weld right behind the screw hole tab?


well first i would really try and find out EXACTLY where the leak is. you may just have to put some water inside and swish it around to find out where, then when you find out exactly where, drain it out and get it as dry as you can. get some jb weld, get a toothpick, dab it in the jb weld and "spot weld" where the leak is coming from. you'll have to let it cure for 24-48 hours. after that you leak WILL be gone - assuming you plugged up the leak completely, as jb weld is very very good at what it does.


----------



## corysti

Well I found the general area of the leak but I can't see it good cuz it's coming right behind the table where the screw comes in


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just a quick question would a double 140mm rad (280mm rad) be enough to cool a GTX 680 and a i5 2500K? I don't need super low temps just low enough.


yeah it will be enough but you might have to run your fans at 80%+ to get decent cooling , we usually say 120mm rad per block plus an extra 120mm for more silent or a bit lower temps ..That rule however is really really basic , it depends on fans and rad thickness , fins per inch .. But 280 is definitely enough for 2 blocks and paired with decent fans it would be no problem !


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> yeah it will be enough but you might have to run your fans at 80%+ to get decent cooling , we usually say 120mm rad per block plus an extra 120mm for more silent or a bit lower temps ..That rule however is really really basic , it depends on fans and rad thickness , fins per inch .. But 280 is definitely enough for 2 blocks and paired with decent fans it would be no problem !


Perfect! Really good thing to know planning a mitx build and only have room for a 280mm rad


----------



## Jesta42o




----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Perfect! Really good thing to know planning a mitx build and only have room for a 280mm rad


oh yeah it will be plenty and great in a mini ,if you have room for push pull then you can run the fans at lower speeds , otherwise since obviously space is the big issue just get the right fan for the job , if your rad has a high fin per inch focus on a fan with a high static pressure , if its low fpi go for high cfm like a gentle typhoon .


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> oh yeah it will be plenty and great in a mini ,if you have room for push pull then you can run the fans at lower speeds , otherwise since obviously space is the big issue just get the right fan for the job , if your rad has a high fin per inch focus on a fan with a high static pressure , if its low fpi go for high cfm like a gentle typhoon .


Hmm I dont really have room tbh... I will make sure I match the right fans with the right rad for sure too







and sadly gentle typhoons dont come in a 140mm fan


----------



## samoth777

Picture Sharing.. oh and this is my first water cooling build.. so be gentle! hahahah









Parts!


















SP120s on high fin density GT stealth Xflow


















EK Universal HF Supreme Block on ASUS 680. I think the Ramsinks match the stock VRM heatsink very well! (forgive the strange angle. whenever i try to rotate it and adjust it in photobucket, the image gets warped for some reason)










Leak testing done.










Everything OK! Money shot coming soon! i hope..


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankth3frizz*
> 
> I really want to do a custom loop for my system. Should I keep the 650D and do it in there? or should I sell this case and buy a new one?


If you're just cooling the CPU & one card, I would keep it. I did see a 650D with two 240's in it. Real Nice Job, but it depends on your budget... I only would buy a new case if I was cooling more. I'm going to upload the Rigs Pics.....


----------



## frankth3frizz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> If you're just cooling the CPU & one card, I would keep it. I did see a 650D with two 240's in it. Real Nice Job, but it depends on your budget... I only would buy a new case if I was cooling more. I'm going to upload the Rigs Pics.....
> -snip-


I'm assuming you cut the whole at the bottom for the 240 rad? I'm not really that handy with modding. Would a 240 + 120 would for my 7970 and 2700k?


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankth3frizz*
> 
> I'm assuming you cut the whole at the bottom for the 240 rad? I'm not really that handy with modding. Would a 240 + 120 would for my 7970 and 2700k?


You can put a 240 and a 200 in the 650d without any mods. Just take the hdd cage and move it over to make room for the rad and fan.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Hi and thanks for your reply-to cut a long story short, after reading your reply, i decided 'ditch the metal idea, and go for acrylic' so ive been looking online and there are a number of online retailers that sell and cut acrylic sheets to custom sizes, and they are very cheap-the problem is i don't even know where to start and what measurements to give, and where to take them from. what sort of anchoring will i use-you see i can take apart a case and do stuff like that, i can paint/sand etc, but for the love of god, i cant even draw a straight line with a ruler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I can envisage 2 or 4 sheets, 2 being stuck in a L shape like you mentioned, or 4 sheets, also stuck together to give 2 L shapes, the idea being that i cover my PSU, the lower fan-or my 120 rad if i place it on the floor-i can drag the sheet all the way to my 200mm fan(L-R), and just place the pump on top, but these are all vague ideas floating around in my head. I was never artistic, and although i find the mechanics of assembling a rig easy etc, the custom area is FAR beyond me.
> http://www.plasticstockist.com/Default.aspx
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clear-Plastic-Sheet-Plexiglass-Acrylic-Sheet-Perspex-Plastic-Sheet-/220962749371
> http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Sheet-Plastics-Suppliers?_trksid=p4340.l2563
> +1 rep for your advice-ty


You are welcome! If you look at my build log you will see how I finally gravitated to acrylic from metal. I know metal but acrylic was a new challenge, besides - I hate painting!
I'm even now planning yet another cover that is 100% acrylic including semi modular supports, and more acrylic mods elsewhere on the case. One thing about acrylic, though, is how you cut it. I prefer to use a table saw when possible, but a good blade must be used of the proper sort to avoid chipping the edge. Other than that I use a jigsaw, but a hand held power saw could easily be used.

I thought about ordering precut before but would just be a waste of money for me when the proper $12 table or power saw blade will cut acrylic very nicely. My only complaint is full sheets are cost prohibitive to ship to me-otherwise I usually buy 12" wide and 12" to 36" lengths to avoid costly freight charges.


----------



## samoth777

Finished!!


----------



## bomberjun

Great to see you here in OCN Samoth777!


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankth3frizz*
> 
> I'm assuming you cut the whole at the bottom for the 240 rad? I'm not really that handy with modding. Would a 240 + 120 would for my 7970 and 2700k?


Yes a hole was cut & trim added... Yes a 240 & 120 would cool that easily...BUT I would go with Aleckazee suggestion, unless you don't want the HD Cage exposed through the side window.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> You can put a 240 and a 200 in the 650d without any mods. Just take the hdd cage and move it over to make room for the rad and fan.


Great Suggestion....This is your best bet here...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12103/ex-rad-186/Phobya_Xtreme_200mm_Radiator_Silverstone_Cooler_Master_Yate_Loon.html?tl=g30c95s1344


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Finished!!


Looks great samoth777!









You could use this to get rid of that 3 slot bracket:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/i-o-brackets/ek-fc580-dcii-i-o-bracket.html

This is the same bracket that comes with the DCii 680 EK waterblock.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Finished!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice.

I bet that Corsair Airflow fan is not in that build in a few weeks....the noise is awful and the fans are not great.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Picture Sharing.. oh and this is my first water cooling build.. so be gentle! hahahah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SP120s on high fin density GT stealth Xflow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Universal HF Supreme Block on ASUS 680. I think the Ramsinks match the stock VRM heatsink very well! (forgive the strange angle. whenever i try to rotate it and adjust it in photobucket, the image gets warped for some reason)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leak testing done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything OK! Money shot coming soon! i hope..


Hey, looks like you put the advice that you got here to good use







great job (+1 rep) if only for completing it -im happy for you mate -btw your cpu block is a ek hf supreme older version(oval shaped top with 3mm led slots) where did you get it?


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Great to see you here in OCN Samoth777!


Hey bomberjun!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Looks great samoth777!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could use this to get rid of that 3 slot bracket:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/i-o-brackets/ek-fc580-dcii-i-o-bracket.html
> This is the same bracket that comes with the DCii 680 EK waterblock.


Thanks MrTOOSHORT!









i'm fine with it for the moment. what I don't like is the mild sag on it. must be a heavy pcb hehe


----------



## Indulgence

nice one samoth777 aka tomawps of TPC


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very nice.
> I bet that Corsair Airflow fan is not in that build in a few weeks....the noise is awful and the fans are not great.


Thanks B NEGATIVE!







The fans are all hooked up to an NZXT Fan Controller in front

http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_mesh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Hey, looks like you put the advice that you got here to good use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> great job (+1 rep) if only for completing it -im happy for you mate -btw your cpu block is a ek hf supreme older version(oval shaped top with 3mm led slots) where did you get it?[/SPOILER]


Thanks kkorky!







I got it from a water cooling vendor over here in the Philippines. Is this version of the block fine?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> nice one samoth777 aka tomawps of TPC


hey indulgence! nice seeing you around here


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Finished!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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FINISHED?????? LOL!!!!! you have sold your soul to the devil that is water cooling-YOU HAVE ONLY JUST BEGUN, you misguided person!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Thanks B NEGATIVE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fans are all hooked up to an NZXT Fan Controller in front
> http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_mesh
> Thanks kkorky!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it from a water cooling vendor over here in the Philippines. Is this version of the block fine?
> hey indulgence! nice seeing you around here


Yes mate-i want one(seriously speaking) is it copper based or nickel? ive been looking all around to get one and even my contact at EK said that all he could whip up for me now, is an oval shaped one with an acetal top







Is your vendor online?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Thanks B NEGATIVE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fans are all hooked up to an NZXT Fan Controller in front


I mean the Ram Fans,not the 120mm fans. They are bad.....they shift the air but my god they let you know they are doing it.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> FINISHED?????? LOL!!!!! you have sold your soul to the devil that is water cooling-YOU HAVE ONLY JUST BEGUN, you misguided person!


The pact has been sealed. The block has been slapped. The wallet has been decimated.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Yes mate-i want one(seriously speaking) is it copper based or nickel? ive been looking all around to get one and even my contact at EK said that all he could whip up for me now, is an oval shaped one with an acetal top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is your vendor online?


The box says "EK-Supreme HF easy mount Copper-Plexi"

May I ask whats special about this block? I mean, shouldn't the newer version be better?









I don't know if he's in OCN, but I can PM you his webstore if you're interested









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I mean the Ram Fans,not the 120mm fans. They are bad.....they shift the air but my god they let you know they are doing it.


Oh.. but those are hooked up to the controller also!







All the fans are hooked up to the controller is except that rear black 120mm exhaust. It's dead silent anyways.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I mean the Ram Fans,not the 120mm fans. They are bad.....they shift the air but my god they let you know they are doing it.


Hes right,although my Kingston's (sold now) are amongst the quietest in the market click on my link Haf 922 etc etc, you'll see it in earlier builds.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Can people please stop the double posts,edit your last post.
Thank you


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> I don't know if he's in OCN, but I can PM you his webstore if you're interested


Yes of course -thank you. i wonder if he would have any copper plexi hf supreme cpu blocks for sale and at what price?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Can people please stop the double posts,edit your last post.
> Thank you


explain please


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Can people please stop the double posts,edit your last post.
> Thank you


oops! sorry mate got confused there. didnt mean it, ill avoid doing so


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> explain please


if you have more than one post to quote - use the multi-quote button. And if you forget to say something, instead of making another post immediatly after the one you just posted, simply edit your original post


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Great to see you here in OCN Samoth777!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That look's good.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> if you have more than one post to quote - use the multi-quote button. And if you forget to say something, instead of making another post immediatly after the one you just posted, simply edit your original post


Thanks for the explanation, some of us unlike lazybear have a real life, and are not always up to scratch with proper forum decorum


----------



## Bouf0010

LOL at the double post ^^^^^^^^^^^


----------



## samoth777

hey randomnerd865.. i see you're using an i5-2500k, like me! heheh

could you share with me your temps, volts, and watercooling setup? just so that I have a good idea about what temps to expect with our SB chips


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A quick refresh of the rules of this thread..

Please don't swear,even implied swearing is not on
If a post you wish to make is after a post you have already made,edit your previous post.
Spoilers for more than one picture if quoting pictures.

These make the forum more pleasant and easier to use.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> hey randomnerd865.. i see you're using an i5-2500k, like me! heheh
> could you share with me your temps, volts, and watercooling setup? just so that I have a good idea about what temps to expect with our SB chips


If you need temps there are a ton of us with 2500ks. I made it to 5.1GHz at 1.44v and 102.3BCLK. I'm not sure how well your Biostar will handle the heavy volts, though, so be careful! I have a delta temp of 23C, going from 30C to 53C at max load. Hopefully these will drop when I add my second pump.


----------



## Lazy Bear

I'm shocked by your immaturity.


----------



## Bouf0010

alright guys lets just let this go and move on - kkorky quit poking the lazybear and lazybear quit korking kkorky

its watercooling time!


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> If you need temps there are a ton of us with 2500ks. I made it to 5.1GHz at 1.44v and 102.3BCLK. I'm not sure how well your Biostar will handle the heavy volts, though, so be careful! I have a delta temp of 23C, going from 30C to 53C at max load. Hopefully these will drop when I add my second pump.


I dunno.. it seems to me that my chip is a poor clocker and gets quite hot







through my air, closed loop, and water cooling phases, i noticed that my i5-2500k is hotter than others.. ofcourse ambient matters also, and i do live in a hot country and in a hot room, with no AC at the very moment, just a fan.

For instance, right now, I'm doing some prime95 tests with my i5-2500k at 4.5ghz with 1.32vcore when at full load. I'm getting 60c as my average max temp.
I would get around 69c when I did everything the same with my H100 at max fans. Does that temp difference seem right? Should my new temps be lower than 60c?

I did some 5ghz benching a while ago. It takes me 1.512v at load to be prime stable. I averaged around 76c. As you can see, those are high volts, and temps. If I did this with the H100, it would be in the mid 80s.

:|

I have an EK Supreme block, an XTX 240 rad, a GT Stealth 240 xflow, and a DCP 4.0 pump.

It's a different story for my GPU though. I used to be at 68c on Heaven 3.0 runs with the beefy stock 680 DCII cooler. Now I'm getting around 40c


----------



## Lazy Bear

You might need to add a second radiator, those temperatures seem way too high. Unless your ambient temp is like 35C I really don't think you have enough rad space. It could also be a bad chip, a bad application of thermal paste, or a lot of things. What kind of speeds are your pump running at? Water speed, like with CFM for air cooling, matters a lot with water cooling.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> You might need to add a second radiator, those temperatures seem way too high. Unless your ambient temp is like 35C I really don't think you have enough rad space. It could also be a bad chip, a bad application of thermal paste, or a lot of things. What kind of speeds are your pump running at? Water speed, like with CFM for air cooling, matters a lot with water cooling.


I'm already running 2 rads. An XTX 240 and a GT Stealth Xflow 240.

It can't be bad application of paste, cause I do it all the time, I do the blob method, and I'm pretty darn sure I mounted the CPU block perfectly.

My pump is running at the full 12V. Pumped straight into a molex. It's a DCP 4.0

My CPU temps are better. But only 10c better.

I have a feeling the ambient temp in my room is around the early 30s. Maybe 31-33c. Just maybe. I have my room fan straight at me and the moment I move it away, I instantly start to sweat profusely LOL. Where the hell is that AC repairman!?









Let's just say that it IS around 35c in here.. will my temps look a bit more normal?

I have a feeling it's just a bad, hot, chip. I'm pretty sure it is. oh i do hope it's just the chip... heheheh


----------



## Mithrandir8

With ambient temperatures that high I wouldn't say your load temperatures are bad. Ambient temperature directly affects load temp so you should be getting better temps once your room is cooler.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mithrandir8*
> 
> With ambient temperatures that high I wouldn't say your load temperatures are bad. Ambient temperature directly affects load temp so you should be getting better temps once your room is cooler.












Yeah that's what I was thinking too. Also maybe because the chip is a poor clocker. It's fine at 4.5ghz at 1.32v (I heard thats around average). But the closer I get to 5ghz, the crazier the volts I have to pump in!!


----------



## _REAPER_

The Philippines is not the best place to be without an AIRCON.. when I am home I put my PC in line with the aircon to provide as much cold are in my case as possible. I am going to get Custom Watercooling again when I leave this deployment. Right now the H100 is good the wifey does not have to maintain it and when I get an RR I just jump right in.

100 days and a wake up until RR but hey who is counting


----------



## frankth3frizz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> You can put a 240 and a 200 in the 650d without any mods. Just take the hdd cage and move it over to make room for the rad and fan.


A lot better. Thank you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Yes a hole was cut & trim added... Yes a 240 & 120 would cool that easily...BUT I would go with Aleckazee suggestion, unless you don't want the HD Cage exposed through the side window.
> Great Suggestion....This is your best bet here...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12103/ex-rad-186/Phobya_Xtreme_200mm_Radiator_Silverstone_Cooler_Master_Yate_Loon.html?tl=g30c95s1344


I already have that setup because I have a coolermaster 200mm at the front. Thanks for the advice, now I just need to read some more about what I need and save up a little


----------



## steelkevin

URGENT:

I'm testing my loop and the water simply doesn't flow as it should if at all.

Is it a real issue if the reservoir isn't before the pump ?

My loop goes Pump / cpu wb / 280 ek rad / reservoir / 280ek rad / pump.
So two rads. I'm under the impression air is preventing water to even get out of the res, when I fill the reservoir I have to tilt it to get it to go in the last rad but it doesn't go in the other one. I've tried having the parts kind of like they'll be in the case, having them all flat ona table with the cylinder reservoir standing higher, tried habing the rads on their sides and all sorts of other crazy stuff. There's a point where water simply won't move
I've unplugged the fitting and "tested them" without issues and the parts were cleaned and had no issues either.
I'm really scared right now and have no idea what's going on. So back to what I suspect might be an issue, does my reservoir position in the loop pause any kind of issue.

/URGENT !


----------



## tipgo

update the photo the Project 2nd Anniversary Lian Li Club in Thailand


----------



## steelkevin

Looks real nice but sucks how when I really need answering somebody happens to put a whack load of awesome pics makes my all caps URGENT signs look invisible.
My odds of getting help just went down from 30% to barely a chance.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> URGENT:
> 
> I'm testing my loop and the water simply doesn't flow as it should if at all.
> 
> Is it a real issue if the reservoir isn't before the pump ?
> 
> My loop goes Pump / cpu wb / 280 ek rad / reservoir / 280ek rad / pump.
> So two rads. I'm under the impression air is preventing water to even get out of the res, when I fill the reservoir I have to tilt it to get it to go in the last rad but it doesn't go in the other one. I've tried having the parts kind of like they'll be in the case, having them all flat ona table with the cylinder reservoir standing higher, tried habing the rads on their sides and all sorts of other crazy stuff. There's a point where water simply won't move
> I've unplugged the fitting and "tested them" without issues and the parts were cleaned and had no issues either.
> I'm really scared right now and have no idea what's going on. So back to what I suspect might be an issue, does my reservoir position in the loop pause any kind of issue.
> 
> /URGENT !


The reservoir needs to be before the pump. Once water gets to the reservoir, it loses all pressure so it won't be pushed through the RAD. Because of this, the pump is forced to try to suck water through the RAD. These pumps aren't designed to do that so instead it will push some water, air pockets, and even possible vacuum pockets. The air and vacuum pockets can actually damage your pump as well as anywhere in the loop with bends.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> URGENT:
> I'm testing my loop and the water simply doesn't flow as it should if at all.
> *Is it a real issue if the reservoir isn't before the pump ?*
> My loop goes Pump / cpu wb / 280 ek rad / reservoir / 280ek rad / pump.
> So two rads. I'm under the impression air is preventing water to even get out of the res, when I fill the reservoir I have to tilt it to get it to go in the last rad but it doesn't go in the other one. I've tried having the parts kind of like they'll be in the case, having them all flat ona table with the cylinder reservoir standing higher, tried habing the rads on their sides and all sorts of other crazy stuff. There's a point where water simply won't move
> I've unplugged the fitting and "tested them" without issues and the parts were cleaned and had no issues either.
> I'm really scared right now and have no idea what's going on. So back to what I suspect might be an issue, does my reservoir position in the loop pause any kind of issue.
> /URGENT !


^^









I think it is an issue. You generally want to come off of the res and straight into the pump, then out of the pump feed the rest of the loop and circle back into the res.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Looks real nice but sucks how when I really need answering somebody happens to put a whack load of awesome pics makes my all caps URGENT signs look invisible.
> My odds of getting help just went down from 30% to barely a chance.


This is not a help thread,this a picture and general discussion thread so Pics are the priority here
Please create a thread for more positive help.


----------



## veblen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> URGENT:
> I'm testing my loop and the water simply doesn't flow as it should if at all.
> Is it a real issue if the reservoir isn't before the pump ?
> My loop goes Pump / cpu wb / 280 ek rad / reservoir / 280ek rad / pump.
> So two rads. I'm under the impression air is preventing water to even get out of the res, when I fill the reservoir I have to tilt it to get it to go in the last rad but it doesn't go in the other one. I've tried having the parts kind of like they'll be in the case, having them all flat ona table with the cylinder reservoir standing higher, tried habing the rads on their sides and all sorts of other crazy stuff. There's a point where water simply won't move
> I've unplugged the fitting and "tested them" without issues and the parts were cleaned and had no issues either.
> I'm really scared right now and have no idea what's going on. So back to what I suspect might be an issue, does my reservoir position in the loop pause any kind of issue.
> /URGENT !


It sounds like that (i.e. your res is not before the pump) may be the problem.

With the way you're set up, the pump is not getting enough water. Any water you fill the reservoir with will have to go through the rad to get to the pump, so you might be pumping air for a bit.

Is there any way you can have the res before the pump? That would be the easiest way to fill your loop.


----------



## steelkevin

Ok. Thanks a lot guys.

Kind of makes me sad to realize the loop I'd been thinking of and optimizing looks / tube routing the best I could for a month can't work :s and I've already cut tubing to the right size.

Thanks again you were several to reply really quick and help me out.

Off to thinking of a new way to route tubing and have stuff set I guess :s.

And I actually wasnt aware this was a pic thread I'd actually always thought of it as the general water cooling thread for some reason.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> hey randomnerd865.. i see you're using an i5-2500k, like me! heheh
> could you share with me your temps, volts, and watercooling setup? just so that I have a good idea about what temps to expect with our SB chips


Sure here are current temps and overclock. I'm now using an h80 though temps are very similar however.


----------



## veblen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Ok. Thanks a lot guys.
> Kind of makes me sad to realize the loop I'd been thinking of and optimizing looks / tube routing the best I could for a month can't work :s and I've already cut tubing to the right size.
> Thanks again you were several to reply really quick and help me out.
> Off to thinking of a new way to route tubing and have stuff set I guess :s.
> And I actually wasnt aware this was a pic thread I'd actually always thought of it as the general water cooling thread for some reason.


Hmm, I suppose if you really wanted to have your loop set up that way, it is doable. Start a separate thread with a diagram of your loop and we can try to help.


----------



## hammerforged

Sidewinders has the new XSPC AX rads in stock:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/radiators.html


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Res before pump is like the water cooling golden rule...


----------



## steelkevin

Although this appears to be the wrong place I'll finish what I started here.

I figured a way to keep everything in the same place and yet have the reservoir's fittings slighlty higher than the pump.
It now goes: Pump / bottom rad / top rad / cpu wb / reservoir / pump.

At first it looked like it was working that way but then I realized (after a res toom a second or two to be drained by the pump which was what made me think it wasgoing well) that although the pump is properly fed and always full now that the bottom rad is full isn't actually pushing water. I have no idea what it's doing but between the bottom rad and the pump's outlet nothing's happening, it's just air.

So this may be the stupidest thought ever but I might be confusing the outlet and inlets. Does a mcp355 plexi top have two inlets or outlets ? Two threads are sude by side and another one is on top. The top one and a side one are linked by the a same hole and end up in the middle of the impeller.

Does the impeller throw water out it's side our do is throw it out from its center ?

I can't make a clean nice thread or do a drawing of the loop because my rig's got no cpu cooler right now. I'm struggling with my phone now.


----------



## Cord78

I would look at the manual for your top or google the top itself. I have a D5 top and the in & out ports are clearly labeled as it does make a difference.

A quick google search found me a diagram that on the default manufacturer top the inlet is in the middle and the outlet is on the side so it is logical that the top match that as well. Have you also tried tilting your case around to get the various air pockets out of the rads and the blocks? If you don;t have enough pressure going through the system you may have an air bubble trapped somewhere in the loop and not enough pressure to force it through the block or rad.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Although this appears to be the wrong place I'll finish what I started here.
> 
> I figured a way to keep everything in the same place and yet have the reservoir's fittings slighlty higher than the pump.
> It now goes: Pump / bottom rad / top rad / cpu wb / reservoir / pump.
> 
> At first it looked like it was working that way but then I realized (after a res toom a second or two to be drained by the pump which was what made me think it wasgoing well) that although the pump is properly fed and always full now that the bottom rad is full isn't actually pushing water. I have no idea what it's doing but between the bottom rad and the pump's outlet nothing's happening, it's just air.
> 
> So this may be the stupidest thought ever but I might be confusing the outlet and inlets. Does a mcp355 plexi top have two inlets or outlets ? Two threads are sude by side and another one is on top. The top one and a side one are linked by the a same hole and end up in the middle of the impeller.
> 
> Does the impeller throw water out it's side our do is throw it out from its center ?
> 
> I can't make a clean nice thread or do a drawing of the loop because my rig's got no cpu cooler right now. I'm struggling with my phone now.


The MCP35X pumps take water in through the center and spit it out the side. Do you have a link to the exact plexi top you're using?


----------



## samoth777

Alright an update. I got my temps down to around 74c max average on my i5-2500k after 10 minutes of prime at 1.500v at 5ghz. I also lowered the CPU PLL a bit down to 1.700v. Core Temp reports 74c max average while Hardware Monitor reports around 70c. Strange!







I wonder which program is more precise.


----------



## steelkevin

Well, it's the alphacool ddc plexi top. It's rather common but I've been looking around for the past couple minutes (still on my phone....) and haven't found what I was looking for.

As for tiltung the case for airbubbles and stuff i'm testing it externally but using boxes and stuff to have it the same way it'll be in the case (approximatively). And more importantly, after the bottom rad filled itself water didn't climb up in the top rad so basically right now I've got about a full res and bottom rad plus the res to pump tube filled and that's it.

Another thing that should be noted is I'm using an old 300W bestec PSU since undoing my cable management would've been too much of a pain.


----------



## Ceadderman

Holy ell! Turn my back for a minute an the thread blows up.









Awesome looking systems. I would pick them all out but that would be a pantload of spoiler tags.









~Ceadder


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> If you're just cooling the CPU & one card, I would keep it. I did see a 650D with two 240's in it. Real Nice Job, but it depends on your budget... I only would buy a new case if I was cooling more. I'm going to upload the Rigs Pics.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My (superhuman being).... That may be the most gorgeous rig my I have laid eyes on!


----------



## Atham

Are dyes a good thing? Or is it better to have coloured tubing?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Well, it's the alphacool ddc plexi top. It's rather common but I've been looking around for the past couple minutes (still on my phone....) and haven't found what I was looking for.


Is this your top?


----------



## steelkevin

Yes. That's the one







.

Just feel like I have to add that the pump is making noise when powered. It's a blue impeller one which if I understand well is a ddc 3.2.
The PSU wouldn't be an issue ?

If the pump appears to be unusable I can't afford to replace it







. Got all tomorrow afternoon and weekend to figure it out but this isgoing to kill me all night and till I get home tkmorrow.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Sidewinders has the new XSPC AX rads in stock:
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/radiators.html


Negative raptorman...


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Negative raptorman...


Dang. They were earlier. I dont know if they sold out that quick or took em out of stock for some reason.


----------



## samoth777

does anybody here know how much better the new EK Supremacy blocks are compared to the old EK Supreme HF blocks?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Are dyes a good thing? Or is it better to have coloured tubing?


All dyes have a coloring effect, this may or may not stain.

If you want a specific color use dyes, the highest recommended is Mayhems. But they also sell other coolants that can be used for an extended time period.

There is also a Mayhem OCN thread.

But if you want a simple color, Red, Blue, Green etc. using color tubing is most recommended. Then there is nothing extra in the loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> does anybody here know how much better the new EK Supremacy blocks are compared to the old EK Supreme HF blocks?


The Supremacy Blocks go from $75(Plexi/Copper) to $97(Full Nickel) before shipping.

That's about what they were for Supreme HF v2 blocks. Hellfire PCs' has a full nickel v2 for $106 shipped. You'll find that on eBay.









~Ceadder


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The Supremacy Blocks go from $75(Plexi/Copper) to $97(Full Nickel) before shipping.
> That's about what they were for Supreme HF v2 blocks. Hellfire PCs' has a full nickel v2 for $106 shipped. You'll find that on eBay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Cheers Ceadeder!







but i was asking about performance difference not price difference


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The Supremacy Blocks go from $75(Plexi/Copper) to $97(Full Nickel) before shipping.
> That's about what they were for Supreme HF v2 blocks. Hellfire PCs' has a full nickel v2 for $106 shipped. You'll find that on eBay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers Ceadeder!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i was asking about performance difference not price difference
Click to expand...

Ahhh, okay. Someone here compared them and said that Supremacy isn't better than its predecessors... of course I got taken to task for relating this, but I believe that's probably the case. I doubt that it makes that much of a difference however. It's just not the same performer that those are, which imho puts it square in the middle with the competition for performance because most blocks run within a few degrees of one another unless they have design flaws.









If I find the link with the comparison information I will post it. As I do not intentionally post misinformation.









~Ceadder


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipgo*
> 
> update the photo the Project 2nd Anniversary Lian Li Club in Thailand
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is absolutely stunning.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Can I pay you to fly to where I live and build computers for me, tipgo?

That's just gorgious.


----------



## corysti

For the guys that suggested a way to fix my radiator I want to say thanks! I put some jb-weld on it last night before i went to bed and I just tested and so far no leaks. I will leave the rad filled up with water all night to make sure no leaks are found.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahhh, okay. Someone here compared them and said that Supremacy isn't better than its predecessors... of course I got taken to task for relating this, but I believe that's probably the case. I doubt that it makes that much of a difference however. It's just not the same performer that those are, which imho puts it square in the middle with the competition for performance because most blocks run within a few degrees of one another unless they have design flaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I find the link with the comparison information I will post it. As I do not intentionally post misinformation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Have read that all over the place myself as well. We'll know for sure when Stren posts his results.









Wasn't that someone who works for EK anyway?


----------



## Hellish

Does an one piece 3x3 120mm fan grill like shown below exist? ( I quickly painted together 3 3x1 120mm bitspower grills)


----------



## hammerforged

^

I dont think so. You would be better off just getting bulk fan material and rigging something yourself up. Or getting (3) 3x120mm filters.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/c223/s1706/list/p1/Fan_Accessories-Fan_Filters-Filter_Material-Page1.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahhh, okay. Someone here compared them and said that Supremacy isn't better than its predecessors... of course I got taken to task for relating this, but I believe that's probably the case. I doubt that it makes that much of a difference however. It's just not the same performer that those are, which imho puts it square in the middle with the competition for performance because most blocks run within a few degrees of one another unless they have design flaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I find the link with the comparison information I will post it. As I do not intentionally post misinformation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have read that all over the place myself as well. We'll know for sure when Stren posts his results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wasn't that someone who works for EK anyway?
Click to expand...

Yup, he works for EK. He didn't test Supremacy against Supreme v1 or v2. Just made sure that Supremacy would fit every platform.

*Disclaimer* - I am not picking on anyone with the intent of being an jackass. This reply is meant purely for informational purposes only. Please be respectful when speaking of any of our vendor reps.















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellish*
> 
> Does an one piece 3x3 120mm fan grill like shown below exist? ( I quickly painted together 3 3x1 120mm bitspower grills)


Watercool MO-RA3 360 Blende Rhombus Fan Screen - Black 


Doesn't look like it but would do in a pinch and is paintable should you want another color besides black.









~Ceadder


----------



## Saurian

Due to limitations on my current build I have to use a radiator with a max length of 240mm, so that might not cut it with 120mm fans. What is your guys' experience with say, 92mm fans that usually reach about 211 mm long? What would I see in terms of temps if I run 2x182mm with both the cpu and gpu under water?


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> Due to limitations on my current build I have to use a radiator with a max length of 240mm, so that might not cut it with 120mm fans. What is your guys' experience with say, 92mm fans that usually reach about 211 mm long? What would I see in terms of temps if I run 2x182mm with both the cpu and gpu under water?


depends which cpu and gpu your going to be cooling


----------



## Saurian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> depends which cpu and gpu your going to be cooling


2600k and a GTX 670.


----------



## steelkevin

I solved mty issues !

I wokre up this morning knowing that it'd bug me all morning not to have solved my pumping issues and decided to give it another shot.
Turns out that the pump is just weaker than I imagined. After like five to ten on and offs of the pump the tube going from the bottom rad to the top reached the top one (water level did) and when switching it off it went back down to halfway. So I kept switching it n and ff and little by little water started filing the top rad untill all off a sudden it sucked the entire reservoir and a second filling of it then galf a third. And the couple blue drops of mayhems that I'd put to see where the coolant was mixed throughout the entire loop instead of previously sitting in the reservoir.
From that point loads of tiny bubbles kept comming up the reservoir. I made sure it was full when I left and let the loop run so that hopefully when I got home it'd be totally bled.

The pump is making a hideous humming noise. I've heard that goes away once the loop is bled. I'm hoping that's true.

This isn't filled with the final coolant as I didn't want to fill it with mayhems blue berry pastel concentrate + blue dye + di water untill I was sure the pump worked.

Thagnks to everybody that helped me make sure my loop's setup was wrong and the reservoir being afyter thpump and a rad in such a complexe/restrictive loop just wouldn't work out.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I solved mty issues !
> I wokre up this morning knowing that it'd bug me all morning not to have solved my pumping issues and decided to give it another shot.
> Turns out that the pump is just weaker than I imagined. After like five to ten on and offs of the pump the tube going from the bottom rad to the top reached the top one (water level did) and when switching it off it went back down to halfway. So I kept switching it n and ff and little by little water started filing the top rad untill all off a sudden it sucked the entire reservoir and a second filling of it then galf a third. And the couple blue drops of mayhems that I'd put to see where the coolant was mixed throughout the entire loop instead of previously sitting in the reservoir.
> From that point loads of tiny bubbles kept comming up the reservoir. I made sure it was full when I left and let the loop run so that hopefully when I got home it'd be totally bled.
> The pump is making a hideous humming noise. I've heard that goes away once the loop is bled. I'm hoping that's true.
> This isn't filled with the final coolant as I didn't want to fill it with mayhems blue berry pastel concentrate + blue dye + di water untill I was sure the pump worked.
> Thagnks to everybody that helped me make sure my loop's setup was wrong and the reservoir being afyter thpump and a rad in such a complexe/restrictive loop just wouldn't work out.


Ive never had that issue and obviously the only thing to watch out for is not running the pump dry but what might help if you have the same issue again would turning the case upside down to let gravity help you bleed the blocks and rads higher than your pump, same as you would for getting rid of bubbles . Glad you got it working for you though , dont forget to post pics once youre done !


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> 2600k and a GTX 670.


I think you could get away with it but you won't get great temps and I doubt you would be able to overclock. At the moment I'm running 2500k and gtx 560 ti (all stock) with a single 120mm radiator using noctua fans at medium speed and the highest temp I'm getting under load is low 60s on both cpu and gpu (lower when gaming). The 670 would have more heat output, but then again x2 92mm would have more rad space than a 120mm.

Don't make a decision on my comment, read around and do more research. Like I said, you'll be able to run everything at stock, but I'm not sure about overclocking because that usually has a significant impact on temps.


----------



## _REAPER_

I need some advice on this before I press the go button


----------



## steelkevin

I'm no expert but a 360 rad wouldn't even need a single one of those pumps.

At least that's what I think. On my phone can't really tell what's in that loop but that's what it looks like.

Edit: ok... hadn't realized you were getting 15 meters of tubing.


----------



## johnko1

too much money for res/pumps...Get the xspc d5 res/pump combo,it will be more than enough

You will also need some fans


----------



## _REAPER_

I already have the FANs... I like that res pump that is the only reason I will get that one.. Money is not really an issue with this one just convincing the wife of the need LOL


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I need some advice on this before I press the go button


Nice. Dual pumps is a nice piece of mind to have. All you need now is an Aquaero.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I'm no expert but a 360 rad wouldn't even need a single one of those pumps.
> 
> At least that's what I think. On my phone can't really tell what's in that loop but that's what it looks like.
> 
> Edit: ok... hadn't realized you were getting 15 meters of tubing.


15 *feet* not meters.


----------



## steelkevin

Right... I've noticed over the past months/year that watercooling was way more expensive for americans than europeans (atleast French). I do admit that $2/3 for a meter of tygon shocked me since it's 5/7€ a meter here. Makes sense that it'd be feet







. Cheers.

About my loop ! I came back from school and it was all going well, making way less noise, no signs of any leaks... So I drained the loop (reminder: it was DI water+3 blue drops, not what I'll be using) and measured the volume with a 50cl empty bottle of water. I was amazed by how less coolant is needed in such a loop. It totalled to less than a litre. I was really expecting at least half a liter more for some odd reason.
I then mixed my blue berry concentrate with DI water (using what turned out to be a 125ml glass and the empty bottle of 5l DI water, had two).

As amazing it may be I had absolutely no filling issues whatsoever. The pump sucked the water out of the res quick and it went up to the top rad straight away as it should.
I'm thinking since it (and the rads, 4noctuas, reservoir and top are) is a second hand pump that the owner had let sit for a couple months before I bought it the pump sort of needed to take a cool ower to wake up an perform normally. Anyway, it works







.

About the pump, it's currently sitting on the testing PSU and will be on my rig's psu after. Thing is it vibrates a lot. I lifted it and you can't hear it at all but when it's down on the pump it makes enough noise to stop me from sleeping.
How would you guys go by to stop the vibrations (or atleast absorb them).

Oh and that blue berry mayhems is such a beauty I almost feel ashamed to plan on dying it darker







(Huge thanks to michael from mayhems for helping me get both the concentrates and dye







).

I'll be making a worklog with whatever photos can gatherand some shots I'll take later once it's all in place (maybe not today but definitely before monday).


----------



## samoth777

Can one expect a big difference in temps if upgrading from 2 240 radiators to a 240 and 360? just curious..


----------



## steelkevin

Upgrading from the same model ? Like going from two EX 240s to a single one and an EX 360 ?
I doubt it. Especially since I read about that person who added 3 rads and didn't see any temp drops....


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Upgrading from the same model ? Like going from two EX 240s to a single one and an EX 360 ?
> I doubt it. Especially since I read about that person who added 3 rads and didn't see any temp drops....


That's because something is wrong with his loop, probably the pump. I've been talking to him for some time now about it.

I added 3x 360 to my loop via the rad stand I made and my temps dropped 10-15C. I also have 4 DDC pumps in my loop.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Can one expect a big difference in temps if upgrading from 2 240 radiators to a 240 and 360? just curious..


The best way is to test it. If 2'C for colder water is important to you. I am overkill so I would say go for it. If I were you, I would keep the 2 x 240 and just add the 360









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Upgrading from the same model ? Like going from two EX 240s to a single one and an EX 360 ?
> I doubt it. Especially since I read about that person who added 3 rads and didn't see any temp drops....


The best way to see an improvement when adding more rads is to put a temp sensor in the loop. Check the water temp under load before upgrading radiators, then test after the upgrade to see the improvement.

If the water temperature under load is 25'C and the ambient temperature is 25'C. Adding a radiator won't improve nothing. Your water will never be colder than the ambient.

My ambient is 26'C, water temp is 28-30'C. To me, a 5'C delta is a very professionnal setup.


----------



## Fonne

*EK to release a FC block for Gigabyte 680 GTX SOC*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/263/19/EK-to-release-a-FC-block-for-Gigabyte-680-GTX-SOC/


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> That's because something is wrong with his loop, probably the pump. I've been talking to him for some time now about it.
> I added 3x 360 to my loop via the rad stand I made and my temps dropped 10-15C. I also have 4 DDC pumps in my loop.


how many pumps do you need to rad ratio. I have a 655 but planning on adding a 480 and 360 plus my 240 and 2 more blocks....


----------



## simonfredette

Spoiler: long quote



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Right... I've noticed over the past months/year that watercooling was way more expensive for americans than europeans (atleast French). I do admit that $2/3 for a meter of tygon shocked me since it's 5/7€ a meter here. Makes sense that it'd be feet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Cheers.
> About my loop ! I came back from school and it was all going well, making way less noise, no signs of any leaks... So I drained the loop (reminder: it was DI water+3 blue drops, not what I'll be using) and measured the volume with a 50cl empty bottle of water. I was amazed by how less coolant is needed in such a loop. It totalled to less than a litre. I was really expecting at least half a liter more for some odd reason.
> I then mixed my blue berry concentrate with DI water (using what turned out to be a 125ml glass and the empty bottle of 5l DI water, had two).
> As amazing it may be I had absolutely no filling issues whatsoever. The pump sucked the water out of the res quick and it went up to the top rad straight away as it should.
> I'm thinking since it (and the rads, 4noctuas, reservoir and top are) is a second hand pump that the owner had let sit for a couple months before I bought it the pump sort of needed to take a cool ower to wake up an perform normally. Anyway, it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> About the pump, it's currently sitting on the testing PSU and will be on my rig's psu after. Thing is it vibrates a lot. I lifted it and you can't hear it at all but when it's down on the pump it makes enough noise to stop me from sleeping.
> How would you guys go by to stop the vibrations (or atleast absorb them).
> Oh and that blue berry mayhems is such a beauty I almost feel ashamed to plan on dying it darker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Huge thanks to michael from mayhems for helping me get both the concentrates and dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> I'll be making a worklog with whatever photos can gatherand some shots I'll take later once it's all in place (maybe not today but definitely before monday).






you need to put something between the pump and where its mounted , you can buy special foam but really its just finding someone in a dollar store that is firm enough to hold the foam but soft enough to absorb. Ive seen people use the grey foam they sometimes pack video cards in or that arts and crafts foam sheets .. rubber shoe inserts .


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EK to release a FC block for Gigabyte 680 GTX SOC*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/263/19/EK-to-release-a-FC-block-for-Gigabyte-680-GTX-SOC/


EK why? What's wrong with 5 40mm 4000rpm fans? lol


----------



## simonfredette

WHAT ? cant hear you over the fans !!


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> how many pumps do you need to rad ratio. I have a 655 but planning on adding a 480 and 360 plus my 240 and 2 more blocks....


I would say you might want a second one. The biggest thing is blocks because of how restrictive they are. Thats what will slow your flow the most I would think.


----------



## Fonne

Have anyone tried to contact XSPC ? - Sent them a mail last week, and still no answer - Its about the AX RAD ...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Have anyone tried to contact XSPC ? - Sent them a mail last week, and still no answer - Its about the AX RAD ...


Im friends with the XSPC rep,what do you want to know?


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im friends with the XSPC rep,what do you want to know?


If there will be a 140mm version - They say that its "based" on the EX, and there is 140mm EX - So was hoping on a AX140








Quote:


> The AX's core is a high performance evolution of the popular EX radiator series


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> If there will be a 140mm version - They say that its "based" on the EX, and there is 140mm EX - So was hoping on a AX140


I have asked him on skype,i will post his reply

in other news..

Not acceptable.





































God knows what the blocks and rads look like!

Thanks Mayhem for not following thru on replacing damages done while testing for you.
Avoiding me and blocking me on facebook is poor.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> If there will be a 140mm version - They say that its "based" on the EX, and there is 140mm EX - So was hoping on a AX140


Yes,they are coming soon.

sorry for the DBL post,this needed to be kept out of the last post as it would not be easily seen


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,they are coming soon.
> sorry for the DBL post,this needed to be kept out of the last post as it would not be easily seen


Thanks







(+Rep) - You can ask him where I can place a preorder


----------



## KaRLiToS

What happen with the coolant B-Negative?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> What happen with the coolant B-Negative?


its an unreleased thermodynamic coolant.
The damage i have no problem with,its part of testing and would expect such things,but for Mayhem to avoid me and block me from his FB page so as to not have to deal with it is unacceptable.


----------



## JohnnyEars

That sounds a bit harsh from them B-Negative, seeing as they're using a pic of your pc as their advertisment for the chameleon


----------



## protzman

what damage are you referring to? i dont see anything wrong?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> That sounds a bit harsh from them B-Negative, seeing as they're using a pic of your pc as their advertisment for the chameleon


Im friendly with a guy he tried to screw over recently,he has it in his head that im now against him.
Not true,i met him at i 46 and it was cool,we talked about stuff and whatnot.
Then Coolmiester finds out that Mayhem tried to get him fired,i sided with Coolmiester on that,now he thinks im are out to get him.

He then vanishes off Specialtech,normally our hangout spot,and blocks me from his FB page.

Thats when the gamma rays hit me.....


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> what damage are you referring to? i dont see anything wrong?


I'm assuming its the severe staining and discoloration of the tubes/res.


----------



## ugotd8

Any of my friends here available for a PM question on video card watercooling please ?


----------



## kkorky

Another fun day in 'Paradise' i see

-thanks for the PMs yesterday B Negative


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Any of my friends here available for a PM question on video card watercooling please ?


Just ask here, if is a problem that needs a lot of attention, we'll ask you to make a thread that you can link to here to keep the info organized.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Just ask here, if is a problem that needs a lot of attention, we'll ask you to make a thread that you can link to here to keep the info organized.


Fair enough, thanks. I'll embarrass myself publicly then.









So, I can get a 6950 (flashed to 6970) with a EK WB already installed, that card also comes with a cool backplate from Gigabyte. $$$

OR

For approx half or a quarter of the money I can figure out what the heck "reference design" means and try to get lucky and order a GPU block for my MSI 6850 PE/OC that will fit. I have no idea how to figure out if my card is a reference card and an hour of googling I came up short. I don't play games at all, just need a solid OpenGL card that will not idle at 55C.









EDIT: found this:
"_
We evaluate the MSI R6850 Cyclone Power Edition video card and ... a close look at MSI's R6850 Cyclone 1GD5 Power Edition/OC video card. ... It departs from AMD's Radeon HD 6850 reference design in a number of ways._"

I assume any waterblocks based on the reference design will not fit this card.


----------



## hammerforged

Getcha a Universal block and then put some heat spreaders on the memory and vrm. Wont look pretty but its the cheapest route.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrahipeungp.html


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Just ask here, if is a problem that needs a lot of attention, we'll ask you to make a thread that you can link to here to keep the info organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fair enough, thanks. I'll embarrass myself publicly then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I can get a 6950 (flashed to 6970) with a EK WB already installed, that card also comes with a cool backplate from Gigabyte. $$$
> 
> OR
> 
> For approx half or a quarter of the money I can figure out what the heck "reference design" means and try to get lucky and order a GPU block for my MSI 6850 PE/OC that will fit. I have no idea how to figure out if my card is a reference card and an hour of googling I came up short. I don't play games at all, just need a solid OpenGL card that will not idle at 55C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: found this:
> "_
> We evaluate the MSI R6850 Cyclone Power Edition video card and ... a close look at MSI's R6850 Cyclone 1GD5 Power Edition/OC video card. ... It departs from AMD's Radeon HD 6850 reference design in a number of ways._"
> 
> I assume any waterblocks based on the reference design will not fit this card.
Click to expand...

A reference design is when AMD/Nvidia come out with a GPU. Then the GPU makers used that design to make their cards with, so everyone is basically making the same thing with just a different name on it. Most watercooling companies don't make blocks for non reference cards because there isn't a lot of money in it. After a while the GPU makers come up with their own designs because they can make them, cheaper, perform better, cool better, last long, ect, ect..... These are non reference designs. You have a non reference design card. More than likely you'll need a universal water block to cool your card. I hope this helps.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Getcha a Universal block and then put some heat spreaders on the memory and vrm. Wont look pretty but its the cheapest route.
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrahipeungp.html


Thanks, considering that option for sure. Was hoping to get a block with the ports up top since I have a horizontal mobo case. I suppose some extenders and 90s would work in that case. Thanks.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Comparing *Reference 7970s* versus *Non-reference 7970s*

(_Check your waterblocks maker web site for compatibility_)

*Reference* (as you can see, reference cards have the same PCBs and the same cooler. They just stick a sticker with the GPU makers brand name: Asus, sapphire, Giggabyte...

 

 

*(Beware)* : Some cards have reference coolers but don't have reference PCbs, like this one.



*
Non-Reference*


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *(Beware)* : Some cards have reference coolers but don't have reference PCbs, like this one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> *


Are you referring to the fact the picture shows the pcb is red and not black? Cause the picture is incorrect, because my MSI 7970 has a black pcb.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Getcha a Universal block and then put some heat spreaders on the memory and vrm. Wont look pretty but its the cheapest route.
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrahipeungp.html


Actually it's about the same price for a Universal/Heatsinks or a Full coverage block. If you're only going to run that card it's within a buck to ten for full coverage option. If you intend to upgrade, it's cheaper depending on whether you get Full coverage Heatsinks and top plate for the current card or go with the smaller separates.

I did the pricing for a Swiftech heatsink, EK backplate and Universal Bridge series and the price is almost the same as a Full coverage block and EK back plate.

The benefit to running the UB series is obvious in that it can be swapped from card to card from then on. It's the heatsinks and backplates that cost you from card to card. Which is fine. I can recoup some of those costs with the sale of a card









My Sapphire 6870s' are Reference design and they have Black PCB. The AMD card with the Red PCB is Reference. That is where the color confusion
comes from imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Another fun day in 'Paradise' i see
> -thanks for the PMs yesterday B Negative


Anyway i can help kkorky


----------



## steelkevin

Yeah, me again. I might have gone wrong again...

CPU inlet and outlet on an EK Supreme HF CU. Stupid question but they matter, right ?

It appears that I filled my loop with the final coolant and dyed it. Then I went on a laptop to figure how to mount my waterblock and saw that there was an inlet and an outlet. From that point I knew I could only have inversed them because that's just how lucky I am. Looks like I did. So here's the thing, I could probably manage saving the coolant in a DI water's bottle although avoiding spillage would be hard but once I'd have turned the block upside down and put the fittings in the right places the waterblock's writtings would be upside down. So how comes I've never seen an upside down block ?


----------



## Fonne

Aquatuning got prices on the new Watercool HTSF2 ...

http://www.aquatuning.de/products_new.php

Watercool HTSF2 4x120 LT: 118,99 €
Watercool HTSF2 3x120 LT: 98,99 €
Watercool HTSF2 2x120 LT: 78,99 €
Watercool HTSF2 1x120 LT: 53,99 €

Watercool HTSF2 4x120 LTX: 128,99 €
Watercool HTSF2 3x120 LTX: 108,99 €
Watercool HTSF2 2x120 LTX: 88,99 €
Watercool HTSF2 1x120 LTX: 63,99 €


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Yeah, me again. I might have gone wrong again...
> CPU inlet and outlet on an EK Supreme HF CU. Stupid question but they matter, right ?
> It appears that I filled my loop with the final coolant and dyed it. Then I went on a laptop to figure how to mount my waterblock and saw that there was an inlet and an outlet. From that point I knew I could only have inversed them because that's just how lucky I am. Looks like I did. So here's the thing, I could probably manage saving the coolant in a DI water's bottle although avoiding spillage would be hard but once I'd have turned the block upside down and put the fittings in the right places the waterblock's writtings would be upside down. So how comes I've never seen an upside down block ?


People orientate them as best suit the loop,more often than not you wont notice them being upside down.
And its actually quite critical you have the in/outs correct.especially now jet plates are common


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Have anyone tried to contact XSPC ? - Sent them a mail last week, and still no answer - Its about the AX RAD ...
> 
> 
> 
> Im friends with the XSPC rep,what do you want to know?
Click to expand...

Anyway you could get me 2x socket 1155 backplates for a Rasa CPU block?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyway you could get me 2x socket 1155 backplates for a Rasa CPU block?


I can ask,are they not in the kit?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Anyway you could get me 2x socket 1155 backplates for a Rasa CPU block?
> 
> 
> 
> I can ask,are they not in the kit?
Click to expand...

I bought one used and it didn't have that backplate and I lost the other one when I sent my board back for RMA...


----------



## steelkevin

My bad after really scaringmyself there I realized it was properly mounted







. Will drill reservoir mountsholes in my case tomoroz and install it all.

Last question before making of myself even more a fool than I already did:
What's the best way to apply Thermal Compound and how much ?

Cheers.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> My bad after really scaringmyself there I realized it was properly mounted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will drill reservoir mountsholes in my case tomoroz and install it all.
> Last question before making of myself even more a fool than I already did:
> What's the best way to apply Thermal Compound and how much ?
> Cheers.


I always apply about a pea sized amount and then take a plastic sandwich baggy and put my finger in it and spread the TIM paste around until there is an even layer on the processor. I've done that with desktop CPU's, Xbox CPU's and GPU's and laptop CPU's and GPU's and I've round it works the best.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Hatefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Damn, you are like reading my mind because you are making the loop which i desire so much to do of my (almost) exact build. (btw, why did you do the tubing between the cpu block to the vrm so long even though you have a 45 deg?)
> and a little question to everyone else: would a 240+120 suffice for a 3570k + M5V Block + 7950 (the one in my sig) ?


It's actually a 90d rotary fitting from the CPU. The tube in that part of the loop actually looks bigger than it is IRL, blame it on my lens







I did make it a little longer than I think it needed to be and I will prob end up shortening it down some. This was my first time EVER doing a WC build like this so I guess I was just paranoid about my loop getting kinky on me.


----------



## Hatefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> People orientate them as best suit the loop,more often than not you wont notice them being upside down.
> And its actually quite critical you have the in/outs correct.especially now jet plates are common


This, I mounted my block upside down because in my loop I needed the in port to be in the other side from where it was. If not, it would have just looked bad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> My bad after really scaringmyself there I realized it was properly mounted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will drill reservoir mountsholes in my case tomoroz and install it all.
> Last question before making of myself even more a fool than I already did:
> What's the best way to apply Thermal Compound and how much ?
> Cheers.


I go with a bb sized ball and let the block squish it out,i think that pre-spreading just gives the opportunity for air to get mixed in


----------



## HF Venom

hey guys, since you're talking about gfx cards, could you answer me this.
I have the Palit GTX670 Jetstream. It's a reference card. Right?
The cooler is non reference. But the PCB is. Right? Planning to put it under water soon.


----------



## Willhemmens

Seems it is and according to http://www.coolingconfigurator.com they have blocks to fit.


----------



## Fonne

Already posted this in the Monsoon thread, but think is also fit in here









*Performance-PCs.coms teaser - Monsoon fittings







*


----------



## simonfredette

i want one of those monsoon in line LEDs , just to see what would happen if I stick a 5mm UV LED right in the UV reactive tubing .. I have 2 of those UV leds but they dont put out enough light to really do much but maybe if it was right in the tubing ..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Already posted this in the Monsoon thread, but think is also fit in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Performance-PCs.coms teaser - Monsoon fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Interesting.

i wonder if uni angles are coming,those and chrome tube will look rather nice..


----------



## Fonne

PPC is workning on more pic, to really show the combinations ...
Quote:


> *Was just talking to Hank form Performance and he apologized for making you guys wait, but it is a LOT of pictures to take because of all the possible color combinations etc. Plus they are trying to figure out a way to photograph the Light Port Rotaries with the tube installed that really shows how cool the effect is. He said they are trying really hard to have most of it up by tomorrow. To be fair to those guys, they are nice enough to take the time to get good pictures because I don't have the resources to get the pics myself, which I am grateful for.*


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I've been waiting for so long to get those Monsoon angles that I basically gave up and bought the Bitspower. Now that my rig is down, it might be a good opportunity to get some.


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Seems it is and according to http://www.coolingconfigurator.com they have blocks to fit.


yeah I already had a look there before, just making sure









btw can I just say how much I love this thread


----------



## xyexz

I would like to be a member of this kick-ass club:

My build log is here.


----------



## Saiyansnake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc*


I was considering getting into WCing.......... after seeing this I've lost all interest







.... looks too complicated.


----------



## simonfredette

well that nine kinds of unnecessarily complicated , for every one of those there are 10 super simple builds , with xspc kits they have these days all you need to know is what size rad will fit , what pump do I want and do I want a bay res or a tube res .. the rest is whatever you think looks best. Everyone who can afford an extra 300$ ish on their build should be watercooling, only problem is once you start you cant stop but thats life !


----------



## xyexz

Good grief that is complicated but I can assure you WCing is easy, it can be hard but only if you make it that way - (twss).

I don't even want to know how long it took to fill that loop through that micro rez lmao.


----------



## coolmiester

Just knocked up some Aurora Emerald Green Dye


----------



## xyexz

All I could think of when the green dye dropped was "HULK, SMASH!!!"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Already posted this in the Monsoon thread, but think is also fit in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Performance-PCs.coms teaser - Monsoon fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


I'd almost given up hope that Monsoon was going to launch these. They pimped em out a little too early imho. I think they lost some sales as a result. I wanna get some 90s' and drop some Red LEDs' in them. Should make the white PrimoChill LRT really stand out.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xyexz*
> 
> All I could think of when the green dye dropped was "HULK, SMASH!!!"


Same. Not a dye guy but that is pretty sharp.









~Ceadder


----------



## mironccr345

Eh, Im still not a fan of monsoon fittings.


----------



## simonfredette

monsoons are a love hate kind of thing , if used well and in the right case ive seen them look great , in others theyyre better off with bitpower compressions . I like the idea of the tool and I like 6 packs but its definitely not for everyone


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> monsoons are a love hate kind of thing , if used well and in the right case ive seen them look great , in others theyyre better off with bitpower compressions . I like the idea of the tool and I like 6 packs but its definitely not for everyone


True, I still prefer barbs over compression/monsoons. But that's just me.


----------



## simonfredette

barbs scare the crap out of me , and its not that ive heard horror stories or anything I just couldnt bring myself to risk what seems like something overly simple protecting my computer. A bit paranoid


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> barbs scare the crap out of me , and its not that ive heard horror stories or anything I just couldnt bring myself to risk what seems like something overly simple protecting my computer. A bit paranoid


Compressions leak too. But I've been using barbs for a while and I do over 24hr leak test. I like the look of compression fittings, but I just prefer Barbs because they work just as good for the fraction of the price. But that's just my opinion on it.


----------



## lowfat

Only 1/2" barbs should scare you. A non-stubby 3/8" fitting will be more secure than any compression IMO. Even w/o clamps.


----------



## simonfredette

ive only ever used 3/8-5/8 and am very happy with it, if ever I used barbs id still either zip tie them or use pinch clamps for sure and I envy barb users for the price difference for sure .


----------



## NostraD

I've been patiently waiting for these monsoon fittings for several months now....my 3/8 barbs with the zip-ties are about to be gone!









I've never had a leak using 3/8 barb fittings (with either zip-tie or clamps). I have, however experienced more than one "dripping" compression fitting. Just saying.


----------



## simonfredette

compressions its usually misuse , overtightening or squeezing the o-ring or even using the wrong fitting for the tubing . It should be virtually leak proof if used properly but the room for error is bigger than with a barb for sure .


----------



## NostraD

Just checking PPCs site to start my shopping list - but not sure if they are finished yet. When looking at the standard rotary 90 I get the following pictures :




I love the 45 angles shown here with the optional colored disc....but they are not listed on the site for sale. They just show up randomly in the pics with the 90 angles.
There are some 45 angles listed for sale on the same page - but they are solid on the end. They do not have an option listed to add colored discs like the 90s do????
Guess I'll wait a few days to see if it gets sorted out - I waited this long, so a little longer wont' hurt.


----------



## NostraD

The only 45 angle I can find for sale ......



Note that the back is solid - no place for the disc? Anyway, I'm still excited....

Edit - They just added more options...colored discs...excuse my impatience, I'm just overzealous I guess.








The guys at PPCs are working - I'm off to bed.


----------



## george_orm

have all barbs now, but am using cheap xspc clear tubing, bought some good stuff so am getting some compression os the tubing is more re-usable,


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> barbs scare the crap out of me , and its not that ive heard horror stories or anything I just couldnt bring myself to risk what seems like something overly simple protecting my computer. A bit paranoid


I run both in my system.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> barbs scare the crap out of me , and its not that ive heard horror stories or anything I just couldnt bring myself to risk what seems like something overly simple protecting my computer. A bit paranoid
> 
> 
> 
> Compressions leak too. But I've been using barbs for a while and I do over 24hr leak test. I like the look of compression fittings, but I just prefer Barbs because they work just as good for the fraction of the price. But that's just my opinion on it.
Click to expand...

True they are just a fraction of the cost and some h2o coolers like barbs over compressions. They are a bit cleaner but if you don't cut that tubing exactly perfect they actually look worse imho.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Only 1/2" barbs should scare you. A non-stubby 3/8" fitting will be more secure than any compression IMO. Even w/o clamps.


False. Stubby fittings don't come with more than a single ledge barb. I think that most compressions leak because the hoses aren't cut properly or the tubing is simply too short to make a solid connection.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> ive only ever used 3/8-5/8 and am very happy with it, if ever I used barbs id still either zip tie them or use pinch clamps for sure and I envy barb users for the price difference for sure .


Multiple ledged barbs work quite well with zero leakage so long as he tube is the correct length and is installed properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> compressions its usually misuse , overtightening or squeezing the o-ring or even using the wrong fitting for the tubing . It should be virtually leak proof if used properly but the room for error is bigger than with a barb for sure .


Truth. If you thread the collar on correctly, compression fittings are virtually leak free barring the instances that I noted where tubing of improper length are installed with zero flex in the tubing. When you thread the collar it can suck the tubing into the compression ring deeper onto the barb and pulling it away from an already completed connection allowing liquid to wick out of the fitting. That is why I like to build inside the system and leak test internally w/o pulling the loop. No leak test should take longer than 3 to 4 hours though. If you have a solid connection and aren't playing with the tubing/fittings, there should be no pee pee in my system. My only leak was my fault and it was found in the first 10 minutes of Leak testing. Corrected the issue with no worse for wear and from then on did not leak. Of course plumbing doesn't scare me either so.... you know.







lol

Of course I will ALWAYS use PTFE on my threads and compensate for the extra thickness in the threading of my fittings.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> False. *Stubby fittings don't come with more than a single ledge barb*. I think that most compressions leak because the hoses aren't cut properly or the tubing is simply too short to make a solid connection.
> Multiple ledged barbs work quite well with zero leakage so long as he tube is the correct length and is installed properly.


That is why I said a non-stubby. Going from personal experience I'd trust a clampless 3/8" non-stubby (Koolance/Bitspower) fitting over again 1/2" compression any day. It is MUCH easier to pull tubing out a 1/2" 3/4" compression (w/ the ring installed obviously) then it is to pull 3/8" 5/8" tubing off a 3/8" non-stubby fitting (w/ no clamp).


----------



## mandrix

I love my Bitspower compression fittings. Never had a drop leak from them I know of. If there's a downside it's overtightening 'cause once you ever snug them together they are a royal pitb to get apart again.
I only leak test until I think the air is pretty much out of the system, and I've had my main rig bled/refilled at least a dozen times by now doing mods. Need to pick up a couple more mini valves....IDK I just don't like QDC's.


----------



## bomberjun

I have so much confidence with 3/8 5/8 bits power compression fittings that I dont even need to do the 12 hour leaktest anymore.


----------



## simonfredette

I dont really do any either , I have towels down until all the bubbles are gone and im done shaking the rig and turning it upside down but I do that while it running .


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I love my Bitspower compression fittings. Never had a drop leak from them I know of. If there's a downside it's overtightening 'cause once you ever snug them together they are a royal pitb to get apart again.
> I only leak test until I think the air is pretty much out of the system, and I've had my main rig bled/refilled at least a dozen times by now doing mods. Need to pick up a couple more mini valves....IDK I just don't like QDC's.


Ya I'm ordering the last few things for my build next week, which is pretty much all compression fittings but I'm second guessing the QDC, and was looking into a small drain valve, but koolance seems to be the only person who makes them... might not even put any QDC or drain valve...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> I have so much confidence with 3/8 5/8 bits power compression fittings that I dont even need to do the 12 hour leaktest anymore.


My last water cooling build I ran for 45minz, and then powered her on!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> False. *Stubby fittings don't come with more than a single ledge barb*. I think that most compressions leak because the hoses aren't cut properly or the tubing is simply too short to make a solid connection.
> Multiple ledged barbs work quite well with zero leakage so long as he tube is the correct length and is installed properly.
> 
> 
> 
> That is why I said a non-stubby. Going from personal experience I'd trust a clampless 3/8" non-stubby (Koolance/Bitspower) fitting over again 1/2" compression any day. It is MUCH easier to pull tubing out a 1/2" 3/4" compression (w/ the ring installed obviously) then it is to pull 3/8" 5/8" tubing off a 3/8" non-stubby fitting (w/ no clamp).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Awesomeness Inside!
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry bout that Mate. I missed the "non" when in reply stage. My bad bro.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I love my Bitspower compression fittings. Never had a drop leak from them I know of. If there's a downside it's overtightening 'cause once you ever snug them together they are a royal pitb to get apart again.
> I only leak test until I think the air is pretty much out of the system, and I've had my main rig bled/refilled at least a dozen times by now doing mods. Need to pick up a couple more mini valves....IDK I just don't like QDC's.


Go to eBay and get yourself "Finger Cots" and use those to uncouple the rings on your compressions when needed. You can get those in either latex or the same material used to make Rubber Bands. Only you won't have to figure out a way of attaching rubber bands onto the ring cause the rubber will be on your finger tips. They are reasonably cheap and reusable so long as you don't tear them.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I dont really do any either , I have towels down until all the bubbles are gone and im done shaking the rig and turning it upside down but I do that while it running .


You're a better man than I am. I would never shake my system whilst running. Not even in simple leak test with no power going to the system. I just leave the cap off my fillport tube and let the bubbles cycle themselves out of the loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

well I tried the whole shorting black and green but then I wanted to bleed it while I leak tested since I needed to shake and play with the tubing for both processes and doing so always pulled my short ( might have been because I used a paper clip) . I put a ton of absorbent in the case , dry towels while I do it and keep an eye on it for 24 hours anyways but I cant bring myself to wait to boot .


----------



## steelkevin

First loop ever (my rig had the stock cooler for over 2years, weirdly it died a week ago once I'd already placed my order for watercooling, suicide ?), took 8/11mm compression fittings because they were only 1€ for straights and 1.5€ for rotary angled ones (any bigger size was over 4€ unit). I honestly thought the tubing would look too small. Turns out I can't even imagine myself spending such money on bigger tubing/fittings as I honestly think any bigger wouldn't look good to me.

Anyway, I only had a single leak that I spotted within the first 10seconds and that was from my reservoir







. The bottom needed more tightening than I thought necessary (was scared to break it but apparently it had to be turned beyond the cracking noise, I could even see the gap betwee the bottom lid and the tube). I've had to make a couple changes to the oreder ofy stuff (you might already be aware of that) and I really didn't find undoing the fittings a problem, it doesn't take that long and if you can just pull the tubing off with barbs how can you trust pressure not tk do that over time ? I'd probable pull on it myself or like fall on a tube when doing whatever in my pc x).
Oh and for me barbs would've cost more.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> i want one of those monsoon in line LEDs , just to see what would happen if I stick a 5mm UV LED right in the UV reactive tubing .. I have 2 of those UV leds but they dont put out enough light to really do much but maybe if it was right in the tubing ..


It still wont make that much of a difference-cathodes and the like don't really give off good UV light, they are too weak, get yourself something like this:http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-LED-Flexlight-HighDensity-120cm-UV--144x-SMD-LEDs-pid-14456.html

These are very good, and can be controlled using a fan controller (as long as the chanel can take 12v). They also use less power due to not needing an inverter, and they also generate less heat.

I use my Lamptron to raise or lower the light strip when in use.

Have a look at my photos and you will see the strip in use-excuse the photos Annie Lebowitz/David Bailey i am not


----------



## Fonne




----------



## simonfredette

oof that phobya strip is 50$ though .. but I have doubt that those monsoons would light very far , and I mean its going to be at most the distance between 2 blocks and im not buying one of those for every stretch of tubing.


----------



## Fuganater

Does any other company make a nice pass through fitting?


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Does any other company make a nice pass through fitting?


Xspc has a nice one,in silver and black chrome colour


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like something that would be used in certain medical examinations









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> oof that phobya strip is 50$ though .. but I have doubt that those monsoons would light very far , and I mean its going to be at most the distance between 2 blocks and im not buying one of those for every stretch of tubing.


They would suit i suppose small stretches of tubing-as for the price being steep, look on ebay etc mate you may pick one up on the cheap.


----------



## samoth777

Okay guys, I'd like some comments about these temps please. I moved my system to a room for airconditioning, just temporarily so that I can do some testing and look at my temps. I still need a way to measure precise ambient temperature though. I can't find RED temp leds in stock at the moment. I might just get a standard kitchen thermometer from some random store. just by guessing, I'd say the ambient temp for the tests were around 25-28, maybe. I got the average of all 4 cores on my i5-2500K. Please do take note of volts, cause I know my chip is a poor clocker compared to some chips I see that are doing 5ghz with just 1.42v-1.45v! The volts boost a bit from idle to load. I upped the PLL a bit on my 5ghz overclock just for extra stability. The rest have default cpu pll. Anyway, please have a look
























Here's my setup


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Hardware Labs BlackIce 240 GT Stealth Xflow Radiator
EK XTX 240 Radiator
EK Supreme HF Copper-Plexi CPU block
EK Universal GPU block
EK Reservoir-Pump Combo
EK DCP 4.0 Pump

GT 240 Stealth Radiator fans
2 x SP120s high performance in push config at around 75% speed

XTX 240 Radiator fans
2 x phobya nano-g silent 1500rpm at max, on push
2 x Cooler Master Red led 2000rpm at max, on pull



*Idle - 30min.
Prime95 - 30min.
Default CPU PLL: 1.800v*

*5ghz* (with 1.825v CPU PLL)

Idle volt: 1.452v
Idle temp: 35.75c

Load volt: 1.500v
Load temp: 69.75c

*4.8ghz*

Idle volt: 1.380v
Idle temp: 34.5c

Load volt: 1.428v
Load temp: 62.75c

*4.5ghz*

Idle volt: 1.284v
Idle temp: 33.75c

Load volt: 1.320v
Load temp: 55.75c

*4.2ghz*

Idle volt: 1.200v
Idle temp: 32c

Load volt: 1.224v
Load temp: 50.5c


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Okay guys, I'd like some comments about these temps please. I moved my system to a room for airconditioning, just temporarily so that I can do some testing and look at my temps. I still need a way to measure precise ambient temperature though. I can't find RED temp leds in stock at the moment. I might just get a standard kitchen thermometer from some random store. just by guessing, I'd say the ambient temp for the tests were around 25-28, maybe. I got the average of all 4 cores on my i5-2500K. Please do take note of volts, cause I know my chip is a poor clocker compared to some chips I see that are doing 5ghz with just 1.42v-1.45v! The volts boost a bit from idle to load. I upped the PLL a bit on my 5ghz overclock just for extra stability. The rest have default cpu pll. Anyway, please have a look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my setup
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware Labs BlackIce 240 GT Stealth Xflow Radiator
> EK XTX 240 Radiator
> EK Supreme HF Copper-Plexi CPU block
> EK Universal GPU block
> EK Reservoir-Pump Combo
> EK DCP 4.0 Pump
> 
> 
> *Idle - 30min.
> Prime95 - 30min.
> Default CPU PLL: 1.800v*
> *5ghz* (with 1.825v CPU PLL)
> Idle volt: 1.452v
> Idle temp: 35.75c
> Load volt: 1.500v
> Load temp: 69.75c
> *4.8ghz*
> Idle volt: 1.380v
> Idle temp: 34.5c
> Load volt: 1.428v
> Load temp: 62.75c
> *4.5ghz*
> Idle volt: 1.284v
> Idle temp: 33.75c
> Load volt: 1.320v
> Load temp: 55.75c
> *4.2ghz*
> Idle volt: 1.200v
> Idle temp: 32c
> Load volt: 1.224v
> Load temp: 50.5c


What is your fan setup on the rads, both push/pull ? and what kinda fans???


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What is your fan setup on the rads, both push/pull ? and what kinda fans???


oh right.

GT 240 Stealth Radiator
2 x SP120s high performance in push config at around 75% speed

XTX 240 Radiator
2 x phobya nano-g silent 1500rpm at max, on push
2 x Cooler Master Red led 2000rpm at max, on pull


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> oh right.
> GT 240 Stealth Radiator
> 2 x SP120s high performance in push config at around 75% speed
> XTX 240 Radiator
> 2 x phobya nano-g silent 1500rpm at max, on push
> 2 x Cooler Master Red led 2000rpm at max, on pull


i hope i get much better temps then you lol, because im going to be running a similar setup but a 690 instead of a 680, but im going to be running GT240 Stealth with ap15s in push/pull and GTX240 Xtreme with ap15s in push/pull..

i get 40-43idle and 55c load on my [email protected] with my h80 with stock fans and 60-70c depending on game with my gtx690


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ya I'm ordering the last few things for my build next week, which is pretty much all compression fittings but I'm second guessing the QDC, and was looking into a small drain valve, but koolance seems to be the only person who makes them... might not even put any QDC or drain valve...
> My last water cooling build I ran for 45minz, and then powered her on!


The Bitspower valves are nice but pricey. I use one for a drain valve, look at my build log for pics.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah sorry bout that Mate. I missed the "non" when in reply stage. My bad bro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go to eBay and get yourself "Finger Cots" and use those to uncouple the rings on your compressions when needed. You can get those in either latex or the same material used to make Rubber Bands. Only you won't have to figure out a way of attaching rubber bands onto the ring cause the rubber will be on your finger tips. They are reasonably cheap and reusable so long as you don't tear them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're a better man than I am. I would never shake my system whilst running. Not even in simple leak test with no power going to the system. I just leave the cap off my fillport tube and let the bubbles cycle themselves out of the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yep, I know what finger cots are. I remember the first time I saw them I was like wth? lol. The problem is once the tubing suffers from having the fittings tightened, loosened, tightened numerous times you end up trying to snug just a little more after a while. Once the two pieces make contact they are very hard to get apart. I have one fitting/tubing stuck together and I just use it to screw into my valve to drain the loop. I just consider it part of the toolset now.








Could also be because I use XSPC hi flex, it's got a real "rubbery" feel to it but I like it.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

My ancient Apogee GT loop modded for socket 1155. Load temps are about 55 C - 58 C, depending. Not bad for a 3-5 year old loop, but I guess Sandy does run cool. Still. Works for me.


----------



## 12Cores

Added another 240mm rad, now running a 120mm, 240mm and 240mm. Going to do some evil things to FX-8350 in a few weeks







. CPU running under 60c and GPU's under 50c while gaming really happy with the build right now.


----------



## RKTGX95

With the release of the Monsoon angles, is there anyone here who is interested to but them for the lighting of it to use instead of colored tubing or dyes?

btw: would there ever be XSPC angles?


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Does any other company make a nice pass through fitting?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33551
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31804

Alphacool & XSPC have them as shown in above links.
They are also know as "bulkhead" fitting.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Does any other company make a nice pass through fitting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Xspc has a nice one,in silver and black chrome colour
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Does any other company make a nice pass through fitting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33551
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31804
> 
> Alphacool & XSPC have them as shown in above links.
> They are also know as "bulkhead" fitting.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys.


----------



## steelkevin

Last step after days of cleaning, mistakes and even drilling.

CPU Fan Failure.

The blue wire that goes into the cpu fan plug is in the right place but I booted up and noticed on my phantoms fan controller the top rad fans' LED go off, half of those Noctuas weren't spinning. Turning the speed up anc back down solved that so it's not an issue anymore but then I looked back at my screen and saw:

CPU FAN FAILURE on a black background.

Any clues on what's going on ? Should I get worried ?
I turned the pc off and unplugged/replugged the pump on the mobo (cpu fan). I'll have retried booting before anybody gets a chance to see this so will tell you if I've fried my CPU







.

EDIT:


Looks go for idle temps Oo.

Still got concerns about my loop though. Is it normal that the only place I can really feel the water's flowing (by touching the tubing) is before and after the pump ? Anywhere else in the the loop and I'd worry about the pump not working.

Off to try out BF3's new expansion to test load temps then I'll run OCCT just for the sake of it.


----------



## simonfredette

I wouldnt plug water cooling parts in the mobo fan headers , run all that directly to you psu through molex , the computer has power over the speed it puts out on the mobo cpu fan header ( as well as things like speedfan) and ou dont want something turning off your pump. The message might have been because the computer cant read an RPM even though it knows something is plugged in the header


----------



## steelkevin

Well... what's the point of the blue wire if not to be plugged into the CPU Fan's plug. I heard you had to plug that there or the PC wouldn't boot since it wouldn't detect any CPU Cooler.
Not quite sure to understand what you're trying to say but here's some info:
The pump's molex is plugged straight into the PSU.
I have my NZXT Phantom's stock Fan controller plugged straight to the PSU through molex too. On that controller I have on one channel my 2 Yate Loons that cool my top rad and on another I've got 4 NF P14 FLX Noctua fans that cool my bottom rad. Each channel is 20W btw.

Oh, just noticed that 3729RPM FANIN1, that's the CPU Fan's plug since that was where I used to see my Stock heatsink's fan's rpm. So it means that it is reading an RPM and that my pump is running @ ~3729RPM (it's going up and down between 3648 and 3813RPM but it's at 3729 most of the time, atleast for the moment @idle).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Plug a fan into the header,could be that you have wreaked that header.
If it still persists,turn off the warning in the BIOS.

EDIT you are not using it for power? Won't be blown then.....


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Plug a fan into the header,could be that you have wreaked that header.
> If it still persists,turn off the warning in the BIOS.


The header being wrecked would explain why like a week ago my CPU Fan spinned at 800RPM and let the temps climb crazy to like over 90° before catching up and running at insane RPM (I think it was over 4000 but I could be wrong, made a worse noise than running Furmark for sure though).
It's till picking up an RPM though which would be weird if it was broken.

EDIT: can't play BF3 -_-. The latest DLC hadn't finished downloading when I took my Heatsink off and starting working on the case so it would be able to host my loop. OCCT it is then.


----------



## simonfredette

I dont plug anything in my motherboard anymore, as far as fans anyways .. is that blue wire your talking about because your fan is variable speed or is that just to indicate rpm ? anyways in any case dont plug fans or fan related things into to the motherboard and save yourself the trouble .


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I dont plug anything in my motherboard anymore, as far as fans anyways .. is that blue wire your talking about because your fan is variable speed or is that just to indicate rpm ? anyways in any case dont plug fans or fan related things into to the motherboard and save yourself the trouble .




Found that on google. That blue wire is what I'm talking about. We seem to be having a hard time understanding each other (well, that's how I feel :s)

EDIT: *"RPM sensor plugs to 3 pin motherboard fan connectors and reports impeller rotational speed"*
Source: *Swiftech*

So now I know what it's purpose is. Basically it serves no purpose as knowing your pump's RPM doesn't sound very useful. Actually seeing as I bought it second hand and it's served somebody else well for over 2 years I need to know if it starts failing as those pumps apparently only last about 5 years (I just need this loop to last a year, so until September 2013).


----------



## ugotd8

As long as the power to the pump is coming straight from molex (full 12V) your pump will always be running at full speed. Blue wire only for RPM readout and cannot control speed of pump in any way.

I have one of those pumps soon to be on the forsale section, what I did was spice all three wires onto a 3-pin connector and connect that to a suitable fan controller (one with a good 30W per channel). Then I was able to control pump speed just like a normal fan.


----------



## steelkevin

Yeah, thanks I just found the info on the pump's official page.
Seem I've got it all well plugged in.

What you did was quite smart but why would one want to control his pump's speed ?

Would you perhaps know at what RPM yours ran ? As I said mine is second hand and quite "old" so I'm wondering if ~3700RPM is what it would do out of the box.

EDIT: WOW load temps ~45. So more than half as much as it used to be with the stock heatsink. The loop's dual 280mm dual thick rad for a single CPU so it's not that surprising. Obviously, a cooled GPU will be added whenever I get enough money


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Just got my backup rig up and running. Not exactly water cooling but the best I can do for my backup!




Intel Core i7 2600K
Asus P67 Sabertooth
8GB G.Skill 1600MHz RAM
MSI GTX 580 Lightning
Corsair HX750
Corsair 600T SE
Corsair H80
Intel 320 SSD 160GB


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Yeah, thanks I just found the info on the pump's official page.
> Seem I've got it all well plugged in.
> What you did was quite smart but why would one want to control his pump's speed ?
> Would you perhaps know at what RPM yours ran ? As I said mine is second hand and quite "old" so I'm wondering if ~3700RPM is what it would do out of the box.


I used my pump in a CPU only loop and during web browsing or other light tasks running the pump at full speed seemed like a waste. I could run it at 50% (approx 2000RPM) and system would stay cool and the pump would be inaudible. I had some issues with being able to hear a faint high-pitched whine at the time. I took it apart and cleaned it and added a miniscule drop of oil per a guide I found here and it's been silent ever since.

It's been awhile, but I seem to recall that 4200RPM was about max.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> I used my pump in a CPU only loop and during web browsing or other light tasks running the pump at full speed seemed like a waste. I could run it at 50% (approx 2000RPM) and system would stay cool and the pump would be inaudible. I had some issues with being able to hear a faint high-pitched whine at the time. I took it apart and cleaned it and added a miniscule drop of oil per a guide I found here and it's been silent ever since.
> It's been awhile, but I seem to recall that 4200RPM was about max.


Yeah so after two years it's lost about 10% of it's initial power. Not a big deal







.

I'm loving this 195€ total loop


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Yeah, thanks I just found the info on the pump's official page.
> Seem I've got it all well plugged in.
> What you did was quite smart but why would one want to control his pump's speed ?
> Would you perhaps know at what RPM yours ran ? As I said mine is second hand and quite "old" so I'm wondering if ~3700RPM is what it would do out of the box.
> EDIT: WOW load temps ~45. So more than half as much as it used to be with the stock heatsink. The loop's dual 280mm dual thick rad for a single CPU so it's not that surprising. Obviously, a cooled GPU will be added whenever I get enough money


well controlling the speed is hand in hand with controlling the noise , that pump can operate at about 9-13V as long as it starts at a minimum of 9 ( I know if the minimum is 9 why would anyone start it below that ) but increasing the speed to max might give you better temps but the fan noise and vibration might be more.. As for the mobo giving you fan errors just go in the bios and remove that warning , its just not liking the rpm signal from the pump, its probably not a bad signal it just doesnt recognize it as a fan and doesnt know what to do .


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> well controlling the speed is hand in hand with controlling the noise , that pump can operate at about 9-13V as long as it starts at a minimum of 9 ( I know if the minimum is 9 why would anyone start it below that ) but increasing the speed to max might give you better temps but the fan noise and vibration might be more.. As for the mobo giving you fan errors just go in the bios and remove that warning , its just not liking the rpm signal from the pump, its probably not a bad signal it just doesnt recognize it as a fan and doesnt know what to do .


Cheers, will do







.

Worklog coming tomorrow if I'm not gaming all day long (been ages, but I'm not even addicted at all anymore, been losing interest for a year). Water cooling was by far the best thing I've ever done alone !


----------



## _REAPER_

thank you everyone for your help I am going to not get the Koolance drive pump res... it seems to be a pain to fill and bleed the air out of. I am going to look at another option


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> 
> Found that on google. That blue wire is what I'm talking about. We seem to be having a hard time understanding each other (well, that's how I feel :s)
> EDIT: *"RPM sensor plugs to 3 pin motherboard fan connectors and reports impeller rotational speed"*
> Source: *Swiftech*
> So now I know what it's purpose is. Basically it serves no purpose as knowing your pump's RPM doesn't sound very useful. Actually seeing as I bought it second hand and it's served somebody else well for over 2 years I need to know if it starts failing as those pumps apparently only last about 5 years (I just need this loop to last a year, so until September 2013).


Plugging that cable into the CPU header and setting BIOS to shut down in case of CPU fan fail is a easy safeguard against pump fail.


----------



## Alfaa

Hey, I'm getting a universal waterblock for my 680. What RAM heatsinks do you guys reccomend? Any pointers/tips for the install?

Thanks!


----------



## xyexz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Hey, I'm getting a universal waterblock for my 680. What RAM heatsinks do you guys reccomend? Any pointers/tips for the install?
> Thanks!


I used this kit on a GTX 570 and I know there are people using it on GTX 600 series cards, should work just fine and the sinks come with glue paste that has been rock solid for me.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Plugging that cable into the CPU header and setting BIOS to shut down in case of CPU fan fail is a easy safeguard against pump fail.


Except it tells me there's a fan fail when I boot. So that wouldn't really work I guess.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Hey, I'm getting a universal waterblock for my 680. What RAM heatsinks do you guys reccomend? Any pointers/tips for the install?
> Thanks!


I too am using a universal block for my 680. I'm currently using AKASA Ram heatsinks. I guess they work really well cause they get my ram stable at +450. Just make sure your case has good air circulation.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/universal-vga-blocks/universal-vga-blocks-accessories/akasa-ak-vmc01-bk-vga-ram-heatsinks.html[/URL]


----------



## MisterMom

Man, oh Man!! Everyone has such nice photography skills!

Here's my latest build. It's going to change dramatically next week. Going from this, the "coolest case ever" (12U server chassis - homemade), to a DD Double Wide 21 Black Edition.














































First number ambient (OUTSIDE OF CASE IN BLAZING SUMMER HEAT). Last number internal case temp. Middle number's are coolant temps.

3 triples, 1 double, 1 single, 3 655 pumps. Highest ever CPU temp on 3930K + p9x79 + 6990 + 6970 is 54 highest core Prime95.

When I have some time I will start a build log of the double wide.

Until then......


----------



## MisterMom

Sorry, should have put these in first.





































I custom cut every hole in this thing.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterMom*
> 
> Man, oh Man!! Everyone has such nice photography skills!
> Here's my latest build. It's going to change dramatically next week. Going from this, the "coolest case ever" (12U server chassis - homemade), to a DD Double Wide 21 Black Edition.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First number ambient (OUTSIDE OF CASE IN BLAZING SUMMER HEAT). Last number internal case temp. Middle number's are coolant temps.
> 3 triples, 1 double, 1 single, 3 655 pumps. Highest ever CPU temp on 3930K + p9x79 + 6990 + 6970 is 54 highest core Prime95.
> When I have some time I will start a build log of the double wide.
> Until then......


You'll like the DD, nice choice.

54C highest core with over 30C ambient ?!?!!? Wow. What speed and voltage the 3930K at ?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> You'll like the DD, nice choice.
> 54C highest core with over 30C ambient ?!?!!? Wow. What speed and voltage the 3930K at ?


Yeah either the fans run at crazy high RPM's or he has a low overclock setting. Also Prime 95 isn't best way to heat up your CPU if you have GPU's in the loop, best thing to do is run a CPU + GPU intensive application or game (Crysis 2 does this quite well







) and that will show you the hottest temperatures ever for your CPU and GPU's.


----------



## simonfredette

or even folding on everything at once , BF3 is what gives me my overall highest temps .


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> i hope i get much better temps then you lol, because im going to be running a similar setup but a 690 instead of a 680, but im going to be running GT240 Stealth with ap15s in push/pull and GTX240 Xtreme with ap15s in push/pull..
> i get 40-43idle and 55c load on my [email protected] with my h80 with stock fans and 60-70c depending on game with my gtx690


hmm.. what is your ambient temp? and what volts do you run your 4.6ghz overclock with your processor?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> That's because something is wrong with his loop, probably the pump. I've been talking to him for some time now about it.
> I added 3x 360 to my loop via the rad stand I made and my temps dropped 10-15C. I also have 4 DDC pumps in my loop.


I wish I saw those drops. I'm still working on mine, somethings def wrong. Same temps after adding another pump, res, and 3 rads to existing loop? yeah. somethings wrong.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> hmm.. what is your ambient temp? and what volts do you run your 4.6ghz overclock with your processor?


My ambient is probably around 18C and im running 1.36v


----------



## InsideJob

Your getting those ambient temps with an H80? Do you have A.C. near the intake or something?


----------



## Fonne

How hot is the Laing DDC-pump 12V DDC-1T running ?

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p5079_Laing-DDC-pump-12V-DDC-1T.html

Is thinking about making a custom acrylic cover to it that will enclose the entire pump (Not bottom) - But will is be to hot ?

Also is planning to use "XSPC Laing DDC Top V3 - Acetal" - Any better?


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Your getting those ambient temps with an H80? Do you have A.C. near the intake or something?


well, there you go then. Even with my AC on, I know for sure it's nothing close to 18c!


----------



## InsideJob

Just came across this on MDPC...








http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2010/renovatio/038.htm


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> well, there you go then. Even with my AC on, I know for sure it's nothing close to 18c!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Your getting those ambient temps with an H80? Do you have A.C. near the intake or something?


Its prolly about 20-21c and more around 17c when I have my AC on low, its starting to get colder outside because of fall.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> My ambient is probably around 18C and im running 1.36v


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Just came across this on MDPC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2010/renovatio/038.htm


at first i thought they had a few major leaks lol


----------



## ugotd8

At first I hated the small tubing and how busy it was inside around the mobo area. Then I realized if they were going for the bloody intestinal look they succeeded.


----------



## InsideJob

I got a new desktop background out of those set of pics







hehe
@Quickset I can see what you mean with the fall temps as I've dropped quite a few degrees on my chip, I guess I just haven't given it much idle time as any time I step away from the computer now I turn on [email protected] Which gives me the exact opposite of idle temps


----------



## iCrap

I've been offered a Black Ice Pro III Triple 360 rad for $44. is it worth it?


----------



## simonfredette

any decent 360 at that price is worth it


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I've been offered a Black Ice Pro III Triple 360 rad for $44. is it worth it?


Oh, I don't know. Those are just under $57 at PPCS new. Also, personally I don't care for rads with high FPI. To me that means my fans have to work harder (and therefore louder). That's just personal opinion tho, if you don't care about noise, well...


----------



## simonfredette

theyre not bad though , you can get relatively quiet high static pressure fans that will work well with high fpi , if its 44 and no shipping or shipped its not bad , I wouldnt pay 44+ ship though .


----------



## iCrap

it's $44 shipped. the guy wants $34 and shipping is 10.


----------



## InsideJob

As long as condition is swell, DO IT








for that price you can't go wrong


----------



## iCrap

Oh, the guy also says that it IS new, it's just been sitting there unused. it also comes with 2 quick connect fittings. OK then i will get it, thanks everyone who responded.


----------



## simonfredette

thats decent for another 360


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Just got my backup rig up and running. Not exactly water cooling but the best I can do for my backup!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intel Core i7 2600K
> Asus P67 Sabertooth
> 8GB G.Skill 1600MHz RAM
> MSI GTX 580 Lightning
> Corsair HX750
> Corsair 600T SE
> Corsair H80
> Intel 320 SSD 160GB


You should... start folding with both rigs


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Don't know how. Besides, my power bill was already $375 last month!


----------



## derickwm

There's a super easy setup guide in my sig









$375 is pretty hefty though, do you run AC?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I live on a southern Georgia island where we have a daily heat index of 105F! I keep my A/C running at 73F so yeah, my power bills suck. Still, I will check out your sig and maybe start folding with the backup (since I rarely even use it)...


----------



## derickwm

feel free to PM me if you have any questions!

I feel ya though, I'm living in Arizona







luckily I live near a dam and a powerplant so my power is pretty cheap considering how many rigs I fold on and have AC running at 65 24/7.


----------



## mironccr345

I thought you lived in Sweden? 

....maybe I read it wrong in the Lounge Thread?


----------



## derickwm

Lol nope. I may or may not be moving to Sweden though


----------



## mironccr345

ohhhhhhhhh, I guess I can take this convo to the Lounge.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

OK, so thanks to Derick's prodding I'm officially folding on my backup rig!


----------



## derickwm

My job here is done









Check in here if you'd be interested in joining a team!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK, so thanks to Derick's prodding I'm officially folding on my backup rig!
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1049994/width/500/height/1000]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1049994/width/500/height/1000[/URL][/SPOILER]
> 
> [IMG alt="biggrin.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/biggrin.gif


Nice! Congrats and welcome to folding.


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ohhhhhhhhh, I guess I can take this convo to the Lounge.


No need really. With dericks most recent arrival this thread is goin to derail anyway. Thanks derick. Ruin-er of Threads.


----------



## derickwm

Not my fault that I'm just popular.


----------



## ginger_nuts

This rig so remind me of Dexter


----------



## InsideJob

Isn't it awesome








Funny, you quoted the picture I chose as my new desktop background


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> As long as the power to the pump is coming straight from molex (full 12V) your pump will always be running at full speed. Blue wire only for RPM readout and cannot control speed of pump in any way.
> *I have one of those pumps soon to be on the forsale section, what I did was spice all three wires onto a 3-pin connector and connect that to a suitable fan controller (one with a good 30W per channel). Then I was able to control pump speed just like a normal fan*.


I'd love to do that. Don't suppose you could just quickly explain how you did it?


----------



## ugotd8

Snip off an old 3pin fan connector, then red to red, black to black, blue to yellow

Usual warnings apply here, do NOt connect it to a mobo header of any sort. Repeat do NOT.

I had MCP355 connected to a Lamptron FC5 v2, worked like a champ. YMMV.


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Snip off an old 3pin fan connector, then red to red, black to black, blue to yellow
> Usual warnings apply here, do NOt connect it to a mobo header of any sort. Repeat do NOT.
> I had MCP355 connected to a Lamptron FC5 v2, worked like a champ. YMMV.


thanks +rep


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Montagem final


----------



## simonfredette

tight fit eh , really clean and well done .. good job man


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> Montagem final


Good stuff!


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Montagem final


this thread gives me inspiration to continue with my pita sg05 build. What sort of fan filters are those your using? loving the gold, good job


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Just came across this on MDPC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2010/renovatio/038.htm


wow that is sick!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just a friendly reminder about using spoilers for quoting multi pictures.


----------



## dimwit13

hey guys, i am about 90% done with this one.
i plan on getting another 7950 soon, and maybe another PSU, so i am not going to take the time for cable management until i get everything figured out.







i am liking the Monsoon fittings.

i am planing a Trinity WC build for the wife-i will post that when i work on it (oct/nov)

-dimwit-


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> hey guys, i am about 90% done with this one.
> i plan on getting another 7950 soon, and maybe another PSU, so i am not going to take the time for cable management until i get everything figured out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i am liking the Monsoon fittings.
> i am planing a Trinity WC build for the wife-i will post that when i work on it (oct/nov)
> -dimwit-


how did you get those small fans on the ram and mosfets?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> how did you get those small fans on the ram and mosfets?


i took a old thermaltake backplate an did a mod.
i mounted the modded plate to the cpu waterblock posts-gimme a minute, i will take a close up for ya. (if it will show)







-dimwit-


----------



## RKTGX95

Did anyone already try the Corsair SP 120 fans and has a conclusion on them? how are they on low/high fpi rads? (these are the only good fans that i can buy locally, used to be the AP-15...)

btw, did anyone try to achieve a similar effect before the new monsoon angles:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Did anyone already try the Corsair SP 120 fans and has a conclusion on them? how are they on low/high fpi rads? (these are the only good fans that i can buy locally, used to be the AP-15...)
> btw, did anyone try to achieve a similar effect before the new monsoon angles:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm pretty sure its easier with UV tubing and cold cathode. I really like the idea though. Still, I prefer Bitspower.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I'm pretty sure its easier with UV tubing and cold cathode. I really like the idea though. Still, I prefer Bitspower.


i never said it would be easy







just really considering to make this "red illuminated tubing" in my (hopefully) upcoming loop. the real problem is not just using at least 1 90 deg fitting in each connection between blocks/rads/res etc but the fact that the monsoon are E-X-P-E-N-S-I-V-E-!!!!
(any ideas for alternatives?)


----------



## Jakusonfire




----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Did anyone already try the Corsair SP 120 fans and has a conclusion on them? how are they on low/high fpi rads? (these are the only good fans that i can buy locally, used to be the AP-15...)


What edition? Performance or Quiet?

Though I've tried and tested those, I still bought the AP15s. Why? Three High performance edition fans are as loud as a hair blower at full speed on my radiator(EK Coolstream 360 XT). Then I've tried the quiet edition, they are pretty quiet(almost like an AP15 at full speed) but the static pressure is not that great for me compared to the Gentle Typhoon AP15.. Those are just my observations before I bought my fans.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> What edition? Performance or Quiet?
> Though I've tried and tested those, I still bought the AP15s. Why? Three High performance edition fans are as loud as a hair blower at full speed on my radiator(EK Coolstream 360 XT). Then I've tried the quiet edition, they are pretty quiet(almost like an AP15 at full speed) but the static pressure is not that great for me compared to the Gentle Typhoon AP15.. Those are just my observations before I bought my fans.


so if i'll hook the performance edition to a fan controller i'll be fine right? (which is a problem in itself, i plan to place a 3.5 fan controller in a HDD bay. did anyone try this before?)

not sure if it helps, but i plan to use the XSPC EX rad


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> so if i'll hook the performance edition to a fan controller i'll be fine right? (which is a problem in itself, i plan to place a 3.5 fan controller in a HDD bay. did anyone try this before?)
> not sure if it helps, but i plan to use the XSPC EX rad


I use my 2 SP120 performance editions with a NZXT Sentry Mesh controller. the fans work fine with it. you can find your noise/rpm sweet spot instead of going full 12v









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> What edition? Performance or Quiet?
> Though I've tried and tested those, I still bought the AP15s. Why? Three High performance edition fans are as loud as a hair blower at full speed on my radiator(EK Coolstream 360 XT). Then I've tried the quiet edition, they are pretty quiet(almost like an AP15 at full speed) but the static pressure is not that great for me compared to the Gentle Typhoon AP15.. Those are just my observations before I bought my fans.


How high does the static pressure go on the gentle typhoons? are those the ones that go to 5400rpm?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> I use my 2 SP120 performance editions with a NZXT Sentry Mesh controller. the fans work fine with it. you can find your noise/rpm sweet spot instead of going full 12v


i'm considering on using them on a Scythe Q8 3.5 which would be in an HDD bay, not sure on how it will work... (in theory it should work since 3.5 drive bay and HDD bay has the same mounting holes)


----------



## 12Cores

I added another 240mm rad this week and put my old 240mm rad into the drive bay of my NZXT Phantom. I also covered the sides of my case with fiberglass mesh to lower temps under load and keep out pet hair.


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> I added another 240mm rad this week and put my old 240mm rad into the drive bay of my NZXT Phantom. I also covered the sides of my case with fiberglass mesh to lower temps under load and keep out pet hair.





That your permanent side panel? I was thinking of doing something similar until I can find a supplier for material to do my window mod.


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> How high does the static pressure go on the gentle typhoons? are those the ones that go to 5400rpm?


I dont have any device to measure the static pressure but I judged it by placing my hands on the radiator's side where the air comes out.









No, they're not the jet engine fans.









SP120 Quiet Edition:http://youtu.be/jA3pSs5-1tU
Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM AP15:http://youtu.be/of2Qnz-1OIw too bad Martinm didnt review this model.

With these models, you can just direct them to a 3pin to 4pin molex because they are extremely quiet.


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> That your permanent side panel? I was thinking of doing something similar until I can find a supplier for material to do my window mod.


The mesh is my permanent side panels, the back is also covered with fiberglass mesh. I paid $15 for the mesh at Home Depot you may be able to order it online.

Good Luck!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Good stuff!


Try to use spoiler tags if you're quoting any more than one picture









Just highlight what you want to "spoiler-tag", then click the black speech bubble to do it.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Stren has some results of the Blocks he is testing up if your interested..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/10#post_17813018


----------



## iCrap

I just got a new pump to replace my XSPC bayres combo thing, i got the DDC-1 MCP350 from bmaverick, should i run both pumps in the loop? or just the new pump.


----------



## Willhemmens

Just the new pump. Remove the old one if possible.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Stren has some results of the Blocks he is testing up if your interested..
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/10#post_17813018


wow stren did some nice work here! i wonder what he meant by EK Supreme HF "JP6"? I wonder how similar the HF block he tested is to mine (HF Copper-Plexi)

according to the data, the Raystorm is almost 2c cooler than the EK Supreme HF.. im tempted.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Just the new pump. Remove the old one if possible.


*I meant its a mcp350 pump.

Why do you say to remove the old one? will it not help at all?


----------



## RKTGX95

btw, what can a mcp350 handle? (could it handle 2 rads, cpu+gpu, and a few angles? should i consider this?)


----------



## Atham

For a Switch 810, with an 97 3770k and a GTX 670, should I go for a RX240 kit + a 360mm rad or individual parts? I have never done water cooling before. And the RS/RX 360 kits are not available in my country.


----------



## simonfredette

I would get the RX 240 kit to start and add a 360 on top , the xspc kits offer the lowest price you can get for main components ( D5 pump , res , tubing and fittings ) , I took the RX 360 kit adn added an RX240 seperately which is the best deal financially , but if as you say you cant get it in 360 then go for 240 .


----------



## Atham

I am talking about the XSPC Rasa 750 RX 240 kit. I might do this in a couple of years, after my IGCSE or even IB.
So how does it work with warranties when I do water cooling?


----------



## simonfredette

Oh, well I took the raystorm kit not the rasa , in any case though .. warranties arent affected by watercooling as long as you dont try to rma something that was obviously damaged by water , which is why we leak test our systems before putting power to them .


----------



## Atham

What if I happened to have a leak? What would I have to do then? You can PM if it is easier for you. Thanks for the replies.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> What if I happened to have a leak? What would I have to do then? You can PM if it is easier for you. Thanks for the replies.


if you have a leak, you shut down your pc, pull out whatever got liquid on it and dry it for at least 24 hrs (generally people reccomend to put it in rice to let the rice absorb any moisture) and go about cleaning up your system. After that test whatever was leaked on to see if you managed to save it. Finally, take your mistake as motivation to be more careful next time, don't let it ruin it for you!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Atham

So what if I get water on to something. Do you have any "excuses" I could use so that the retailer accepts the RMA?


----------



## simonfredette

components dont get damaged from being wet , just from being wet while running since the water is a conductor and shorts out the circuits . Thats why we leak test withough any power to our motherboards or graphics cards , you lay paper towel so you can see if you find leaks and if you do its usually a case of tightening a or adjusting a clamp if youre using barbs , once youre confident that there are no leaks ( at least 24 hours of running the pump if its your first loop) then you can apply power to the rest of the rig. If you did get a leak while theres power on the board and it frys it you can always try to rma but they will almost certainly realize it was water damage or any other short caused by the user and deny rma .. I wouldnt be afraid of watercooling though , if you take your time and peoples advice and are careful there is no reason anything would get damaged.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> So what if I get water on to something. Do you have any "excuses" I could use so that the retailer accepts the RMA?


it doesnt typically rain in your case so an short circuit is bound to have been caused by the user , but like I said getting it wet wont damage it , people clean theyre boards all the time , its applying power to the board while its wet that causes problems


----------



## Atham

I just realized that in 2 years the warranty from the retailer ends. Can I damage the GPU even if I have a water block on it?


----------



## simonfredette

yeah if something other than damage caused by the watercooling happens you just take the waterblock off , reinstall the air cooler and send it in.. Thats relatively common and its the reason we keep the air cooler ( that and for re-sale )


----------



## Atham

How about putting on a backplate for the Graphics card. How do those work? I have a GTX 670 Windforce GPU, with the same PCB as a GTX 680; correct me if I am wrong.

What fan controller would you recommend for more than 7 fans?


----------



## Cord78

Just saw this on my facebook feed...

Mayhems Liquidmetal:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIjpj2oGv9E&feature=share

all i have to say about it is..



The possibilities are endless. I think that ends the debate on who the best supplier of dyes is.


----------



## wermad

liquid metal....interesting


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> How about putting on a backplate for the Graphics card. How do those work? I have a GTX 670 Windforce GPU, with the same PCB as a GTX 680; correct me if I am wrong.
> What fan controller would you recommend for more than 7 fans?


same they dont affect warranty , just make sure you take it off if ou want to send the card in for rma, or you might not get it back


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> liquid metal....interesting


i can just see it happening - "oh we didnt test it that way - sorry the components in your loop are now destroyed"


----------



## Atham

Do the backplates help with water cooling (if water drips onto it)? What if there is a puncture within a tube? Or is that uncommon.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Do the backplates help with water cooling (if water drips onto it)? What if there is a puncture within a tube? Or is that uncommon.


thats never going to happen unless you put it there , leaks happen at the fittings on blocks and res/pump.. the backplate does help cooling a bit though, it acts like a heatsink ( not huge but it doesnt hurt ) also helps compensate for the extra weight of the waterblock.. Dont worry about leaks , you will have plenty of time to run the pump without power on the system to make sure there arent leaks and then you can run the system with paper in it for a week if you want to be really sure .


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Do the backplates help with water cooling (if water drips onto it)? What if there is a puncture within a tube? Or is that uncommon.


the backplates are simply there to help with cooling - its not meant to offer protection against a leak.

A tube being punctured will most likely only happen while leak testing (never heard of it happening though), a hole will not just magically appear one day to cause a leak to ruin all your stuff









I understand where youre coming from though - its a big step getting into watercooling but once you get past that first leak test you'll see how easy and safe it really is


----------



## Atham

Thanks for the replies guys. As soon as any questions pop into my ahead, you will be the first to know.
Quote:


> I understand where youre coming from though - its a big step getting into watercooling but once you get past that first leak test you'll see how easy and safe it really is


I plan on doing a WC loop for my brother's future PC as well. I want my PC to be a first time and then I can go happily about it.

EDIT: Oh well, here goes one. How often do you have to maintain a water cooling setup? If I build someone with limited hardware knowledge, how often will they or I have to maintain it?


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys. As soon as any questions pop into my ahead, you will be the first to know.
> I plan on doing a WC loop for my brother's future PC as well. I want my PC to be a first time and then I can go happily about it.
> EDIT: Oh well, here goes one. How often do you have to maintain a water cooling setup? If I build someone with limited hardware knowledge, how often will they or I have to maintain it?


depends what you are running , if you run distilled water ( best for a first timer) then there isnt really any reason to ever do anything except top it up but I prefer to empty is out once every six months an put new water anyways , its only about .85$ a gallon right .. if you run dyes or coolants then you might want to empty it out and flush it a bit more often, check with the manufacturer .. The big thing with coolants and dyes is that you cant see in your reservoir if its getting cloudy or has a bunch of sediment in it like you would with distilled water . You shouldnt reall ever have to actually take a block apart and clean inside , people do because they are going from a dark colored coolant to a light or something and they dont want to contaminate and stuff but if you are running water there is no reason to take blocks apart. Same for the thermal paste between the block and the chip , if your temps havnt changed then dont disturb it . Its all case by case though, some people empty and flush more often than others but unless its specified on the coolant your using you just leave it alone and top it up when the level goes down .


----------



## Atham

So I can use normal distilled water that you can get in Tesco, right? I don't want to use dyes, I think coloured tubing looks better and is better in functionality (once again correct me if I am wrong about this.).


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> So I can use normal distilled water that you can get in Tesco, right? I don't want to use dyes, I think coloured tubing looks better and is better in functionality (once again correct me if I am wrong about this.).


yeah thats what I did , Blue UV tubing with distilled water from walmart


----------



## Atham

Any specific brands of tubing? This is the shop for WC'ing parts in my country: www.tichepc.sk It is such a pity that it is on the other end of Slovakia.


----------



## wermad

Going back to water cooling (for personal/family reasons







). Just needing a pump-res combo (non drive bay) suggestion. I'm pretty much maxed out so I'm looking for something budget friendly. The res has to be small since real estate is very limited in my case


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> the backplates are simply there to help with cooling - its not meant to offer protection against a leak.
> A tube being punctured will most likely only happen while leak testing (never heard of it happening though), a hole will not just magically appear one day to cause a leak to ruin all your stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand where youre coming from though - its a big step getting into watercooling but once you get past that first leak test you'll see how easy and safe it really is


Backplates are more for adding structural strength to the card and giving the block a better,even pressure.
Very rare the backplate contacts the board,some stock plates have a cooling effect tho. My ASUS 6870s on my bench have a heatsink effect on the back of the GPU for instance


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> if you have a leak, you shut down your pc, pull out whatever got liquid on it and dry it for at least 24 hrs *(generally people reccomend to put it in rice to let the rice absorb any moisture)* and go about cleaning up your system. After that test whatever was leaked on to see if you managed to save it. Finally, take your mistake as motivation to be more careful next time, don't let it ruin it for you!
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


In regard to the above bolded statement: it does of course refer to *dry, uncooked* rice...








(Not yesterdays take-out for example)








Just wanted to make that clear...lol


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> In regard to the above bolded statement: it does of course refer to *dry, uncooked* rice...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Not yesterdays take-out for example)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to make that clear...lol


Does it really work, using rice to dry out? I heard of it, but have yet to see it in action.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Backplates are more for adding structural strength to the card and giving the block a better,even pressure.
> Very rare the backplate contacts the board,some stock plates have a cooling effect tho. My ASUS 6870s on my bench have a heatsink effect on the back of the GPU for instance


my 580s backplates make contact with the solder point of my VRMs (via thermal pads) and the backplate gets fairly hot to the touch with some heavy overclocking and gaming.
Adding structural strength makes a lot of sense but for some reason i thought all the aftermarket backplate had some sort of contact for cooling purposes.
Learn something new everyday.


----------



## nolonger

I'm going to start saving some cash to put together a water loop.

What I have:
Stinger V8 (no mounting system)
240mm rad with stripped paint
Pump (forgot the model, its got 3/8" fittings)
1/2" ID 5/8" OD clear tubing

What I need:
Mounting system for my Stinger V8 (I'll get something machined or I'll make it myself)
Spray paint for my rad
Set of Sandpaper (to finish the paint-stripping properly)
2x 120mm fans
Pump top
Reservoir
Killcoil
Clamps or compression fittings

I'm not sure if I'll get simple clamps or go with compression fittings. Do you guys think I could make it work for less than U$100? Are there any clamps I can use that have nice aesthetics or should I just bite the bullet and get the expensive compression fittings?


----------



## wermad

So, the Alphacool cpu block tested overall best in Stren's testing. Not bad for a midrange block. I voted for the cpu-370 which did get a nod for second (tie though). I picked up an Apogee HD since it was cheap


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nolonger*
> 
> I'm going to start saving some cash to put together a water loop.
> What I have:
> Stinger V8 (no mounting system)
> 240mm rad with stripped paint
> Pump (forgot the model, its got 3/8" fittings)
> 1/2" ID 5/8" OD clear tubing
> What I need:
> Mounting system for my Stinger V8 (I'll get something machined or I'll make it myself)
> Spray paint for my rad
> Set of Sandpaper (to finish the paint-stripping properly)
> 2x 120mm fans
> Pump top
> Reservoir
> Killcoil
> Clamps or compression fittings
> I'm not sure if I'll get simple clamps or go with compression fittings. Do you guys think I could make it work for less than U$100? Are there any clamps I can use that have nice aesthetics or should I just bite the bullet and get the expensive compression fittings?


Spray Paint = $3-5
Sandpaper = $3-10
2x120mm Fans = $15-$30 (I really like the Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm fans and the XSPC 2000rpm fans, both are $8/each)
Pump Top = $15-$30 (watch the Classifieds here, and get one cheap)
Res = $25-$45 (I love the EK Multioption Res X2 Advanced 150 but on a budget the Swiftech MC-Res Rev2 is nice)
Fittings = $4ea for XSPC Compression Fittings

Yes, it can be done for under or right around $100, but I would highly recommend watching the Classifieds here to get high end parts for low prices. Airdeano has a number of things for sale right now for excellent prices, and he is a member I would absolutely trust to buy from. There are dozens of other posts with everything you could need, too.


----------



## nolonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Spray Paint = $3-5
> Sandpaper = $3-10
> 2x120mm Fans = $15-$30 (I really like the Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm fans and the XSPC 2000rpm fans, both are $8/each)
> Pump Top = $15-$30 (watch the Classifieds here, and get one cheap)
> Res = $25-$45 (I love the EK Multioption Res X2 Advanced 150 but on a budget the Swiftech MC-Res Rev2 is nice)
> Fittings = $4ea for XSPC Compression Fittings
> Yes, it can be done for under or right around $100, but I would highly recommend watching the Classifieds here to get high end parts for low prices. Airdeano has a number of things for sale right now for excellent prices, and he is a member I would absolutely trust to buy from. There are dozens of other posts with everything you could need, too.


Thanks for the help! I'm going to save up and will buy soon! I'm really excited about having my first proper loop!


----------



## kcuestag

How quieter is the Laing D5 with TOP compared to the EK DCP 4.0?

I am considering replacing my EK DCP 4.0 mainly because of the noise it produces at full speed, can get very annoying, not worried about water flow as this one produces more than enough for my loop, I'm asking mainly because of the noise, would it be a good upgrade in terms of silence?


----------



## Cord78

I have the bitspower d5 mod top V2 with a d5 Strong pump running at highest setting of 5, to be honest once the air is out of it i actual have to look at the kill-coil in the res moving to see if it is actually working. My fans are really quiet (just barely hear the air blowing) and I don't hear the pump at all and that is just with a tiny piece of 1/8" foam cut from the gpu block packaging to dampen vibration between the pump and case.

When i first filled the system it made lots of cavitation noise form the air trapped in the pump but once that worked itself out it is super quiet.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Does it really work, using rice to dry out? I heard of it, but have yet to see it in action.


Actually I have no experience with that, I had just heard other people say the same thing. I am thinking it probably doesn't help a whole lot. If your component is THAT wet - then the rice MAY soak up SOME of the water, but then you just have soggy rice on your component...







right?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Does it really work, using rice to dry out? I heard of it, but have yet to see it in action.


I've done it to dry out a cell phone that fell into a cup of water. The earpiece speaker and camera no longer worked, but it was able to turn on and be used for texting and making calls on speaker phone


----------



## simonfredette

yeah uncooked rice or instant rice is your best bet , bury whatever got wet in it , completely covered and leave it for a good 24 hours ,it sucks moisture right out


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How quieter is the Laing D5 with TOP compared to the EK DCP 4.0?
> I am considering replacing my EK DCP 4.0 mainly because of the noise it produces at full speed, can get very annoying, not worried about water flow as this one produces more than enough for my loop, I'm asking mainly because of the noise, would it be a good upgrade in terms of silence?


I added some foam to my old Hydro 800 (Jingway 1200) and I hooked it up to a fan controller. It helped with the noise especially the foam. The pump was able to do 7v and it was almost dead silent with the foam. The D5 is better but I find the DDC much quieter. This is my opinion. It goes back and forth when it comes to D5 vs DDC. You'll find a lot of users can say the same things for both. The Jingway is a sleeper. I recall a review had it edging a D5 B (fixed speed).


----------



## steelkevin

Now that my loops running I'm really considering getting rid of my 560 Ti and watercooling a 7870. But EK's 7870 blocks are both ugly and stupid (only being able to connect tubing to the bottom is beyond ******ed, I really don't know what EK was thinking this year but clearly they weren't thinking well) and that's all you can get in France. Luckily my dad will be back living in the UK by December so I can order things from UK retailers and have him send me them.

What would you guys advise (block+backplate) for a 7870 ?

This is really bothering me... (the whole EK messing up thing).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> my 580s backplates make contact with the solder point of my VRMs (via thermal pads) and the backplate gets fairly hot to the touch with some heavy overclocking and gaming.
> Adding structural strength makes a lot of sense but for some reason i thought all the aftermarket backplate had some sort of contact for cooling purposes.
> Learn something new everyday.


Interesting,my watercool back plates dont make contact with my 670's...
Is your Plate an aftermarket unit?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How quieter is the Laing D5 with TOP compared to the EK DCP 4.0?
> I am considering replacing my EK DCP 4.0 mainly because of the noise it produces at full speed, can get very annoying, not worried about water flow as this one produces more than enough for my loop, I'm asking mainly because of the noise, would it be a good upgrade in terms of silence?


D5s are very quiet,i cant hear mine on setting 4 and i get a low pitch sound at full beans.


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting,my watercool back plates dont make contact with my 670's...
> Is your Plate an aftermarket unit?
> D5s are very quiet,i cant hear mine on setting 4 and i get a low pitch sound at full beans.


i love my D5







the only time i can kinda hear it is when its cranked to 24V.

My 580s are the Asus DCII versions and the backplate is from EK

its kinda hard to see on the top card since i didnt get the thermal pads all the way to the edge, but the bottom card shows it quite clearly.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## aeonoscence

so many joins









I will too









this is what my build looked like before i made it **** rainbows...back when it still had a colour scheme


----------



## mandrix

I have 2 x D5's running and both are mounted to the bottom of my HDD bay on my Switch, I can't hear them except if I cycle the power up and down (both are connected to a FC9) I can hear a slight whirring noise temporarily. Both pumps are running Bitspower V2 tops connected with rotary 90's and an Aquatube..
They are real noisy with cavitation when the loop is being filled, but usually get dead quiet in about a half hour in my loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> so many joins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is what my build looked like before i made it **** rainbows...back when it still had a colour scheme


I love the leds on the cpu block


----------



## Atham

Are the CPU blocks in the XSPC Rasa 750 RX 240 kits good? What about the pump?


----------



## aeonoscence

they're generic blocks. they're not bad, not good. but, for a kit, they're pretty decent. you should get the raystorm d5 kit if you can find it, its awesome







would have saved me money :S


----------



## andrew grp

Guys, What is happening to my waterblock? I believe its corrosion (?), just look at the inlet port and it seems like there are pieces of metal missing...





P.S Sry for the poor lighting, it was early in the morning.


----------



## EDGERRIES

Hey guys, Im planning on doing my first water-cooling loop, my only query is how is *transportation* when it comes to water-cooling? I plan on still taking my rig with me when i go home for college holidays (driving not flying). This obviously requires draining? So what do you guys do when transporting your builds? Sorry for the noob question! Amazing forum btw!


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> they're generic blocks. they're not bad, not good. but, for a kit, they're pretty decent. you should get the raystorm d5 kit if you can find it, its awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would have saved me money :S


There are no ray storm + D5 kits in my country. If I was to WC, should I go for the parts individually or by kit?


----------



## Willhemmens

You need to send EK support a message with the photos, they will get you sorted out.

What coolant are you using? My guess would be tap water perhaps.


----------



## andrew grp

^Tap water lol, not really. Well, I have used Ek Coolant UV blue at first but then I switched to distilled and kill coil.

Well, maybe that's the answer still though I'm not too happy with these results. Perhaps I will go full copper next time...


----------



## protzman

''Tap water perhaps'' hahahah you had me rolling


----------



## aeonoscence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> There are no ray storm + D5 kits in my country. If I was to WC, should I go for the parts individually or by kit?


buy an ek kit...they should last you. if you can't find an ek kit, then ask me via pm







where are u located?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrew grp*
> 
> Guys, What is happening to my waterblock? I believe its corrosion (?), just look at the inlet port and it seems like there are pieces of metal missing...
> 
> 
> P.S Sry for the poor lighting, it was early in the morning.


its corrosion. next time, don't use coolant. use distilled water + liquid utopia (DI + LU)








you can't do squat about it...just get a new block.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> buy an ek kit...they should last you. if you can't find an ek kit, then ask me via pm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where are u located?
> its corrosion. next time, don't use coolant. use distilled water + liquid utopia (DI + LU)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can't do squat about it...just get a new block.


And if you have other blocks in the loop, they likely have similar corrosion if they are the same metals. Make sure you aren't mixing metals in your loop too. I used all copper blocks, but I have to use filtered water instead of distilled as my coolers go through about 2 gallons a day at full load. I still get some scaling in my loops and inside the coolers however.


----------



## protzman

Does mixing metals Have anything to do with rads or fittings? I have nickel blocks, and I'm pretty sure the fittings I have are ''nickel coated'' they are koolance' but then obviously the rads are copper!?


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

I'm no expert in water cooling, so I would wait for someone else to chime in on that one.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Does mixing metals Have anything to do with rads or fittings? I have nickel blocks, and I'm pretty sure the fittings I have are ''nickel coated'' they are koolance' but then obviously the rads are copper!?


dude your good to go, if you had cooper and aluminum rads in your loop thats when you should worry has it would cause galvanic corrosion...though they are coolants with corrosion inhabiter to prevent it from happening that only will slow the process temporarily, but you have no aluminum rads or fittings in your loop so you good to go


----------



## protzman

Thanks man . + rep


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> dude your good to go, if you had cooper and aluminum rads in your loop thats when you should worry has it would cause galvanic corrosion...though they are coolants with corrosion inhabiter to prevent it from happening that only will slow the process temporarily, but you have no aluminum rads or fittings in your loop so you good to go


So I'm guess aluminum is the incommon material used in PC watercooling??


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So I'm guess aluminum is the incommon material used in PC watercooling??


well theirs 2 major reason why we don't use aluminum when it comes pc watercooling and thats because it doesn't transfer heat as well as copper does, plus the aluminum will corrode faster the copper does when dissimilar metals are in the same loop, they are radiator made out of aluminum but it is not preferred as i stated earlier coppers rads transfer heat better.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> buy an ek kit...they should last you. if you can't find an ek kit, then ask me via pm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where are u located?
> its corrosion. next time, don't use coolant. use distilled water + liquid utopia (DI + LU)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can't do squat about it...just get a new block.


Its actually a typical EK Nickel flake,nothing to do with the fluids.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> dude your good to go, if you had cooper and aluminum rads in your loop thats when you should worry has it would cause galvanic corrosion...though they are coolants with corrosion inhabiter to prevent it from happening that only will slow the process temporarily, but you have no aluminum rads or fittings in your loop so you good to go


This ^^


----------



## Travisty

Here is my build of my Level 10 GTW. It's my first water cooling setup and hack job. Please note that all the work was done in Saudi Arabia so some stuff is hard to get a hold of to make it look all sexy. I have two 590 GTX's coming in so I will be redoing the loop setup so any tips on rerouting would be great. Also I'll include a link with the entire build soon. Well now on to the goodies!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Why do they even make aluminum water cooling components?


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> buy an ek kit...they should last you. if you can't find an ek kit, then ask me via pm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where are u located?
> its corrosion. next time, don't use coolant. use distilled water + liquid utopia (DI + LU)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can't do squat about it...just get a new block.


You're supposed to use a coolant ie something with a corrosion inhibitor! The days of straight distilled are gone lol.

And why would he need s new block? There's nothing mechanically wrong with the block. The faults are only aesthetic.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I got a EK EN-Acetal Supreme-HF off H4rd5tyl3, opened it up, cleaned It and its all good no flaking, is this block going to be ok with distilled water and kill coil?? He used it with distilled water and pt nuke. I I know it was around this Gen when ek had all the flaking issues, I just want it to last me till haswell comes out.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I got a EK EN-Acetal Supreme-HF off H4rd5tyl3, opened it up, cleaned It and its all good no flaking, is this block going to be ok with distilled water and kill coil?? He used it with distilled water and pt nuke. I I know it was around this Gen when ek had all the flaking issues, I just want it to last me till haswell comes out.


Bump for an excellent question, I'd love to hear the answer to this as well.


----------



## Roikyou

Looking for suggestions in regards to help with cooling multiple gpus. Do you run just one connector between the two cards so that you have just one loop through both cards? Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Why do they even make aluminum water cooling components?


There are still aluminum stuff out there. Most notably, the closed loop systems use aluminum internally. So it makes sense to use an aluminum rad with, for example, a modded H50.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I got a EK EN-Acetal Supreme-HF off H4rd5tyl3, opened it up, cleaned It and its all good no flaking, is this block going to be ok with distilled water and kill coil?? He used it with distilled water and pt nuke. I I know it was around this Gen when ek had all the flaking issues, I just want it to last me till haswell comes out.


If an older EK block held up to distilled with biocide, then you can probably run the same. I ran a kill.coil with a rev.1 HF for a few months and though this was pre-EN I didn't have issues. EN(s) were to address the issue of nickel failure and it mostly did. There are some cases around where they did failed but not as prolific as the previous nickel blocks (non-EN).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Bump for an excellent question, I'd love to hear the answer to this as well.


Sap (see above post)









Things are shipping. Excited to go back to water but a little sad on leaving air cooling. More money being dumped but hey, that's water for you


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If an older EK block held up to distilled with biocide, then you can probably run the same. I ran a kill.coil with a rev.1 HF for a few months and though this was pre-EN I didn't have issues. EN(s) were to address the issue of nickel failure and it mostly did. There are some cases around where they did failed but not as prolific as the previous nickel blocks (non-EN).
> 
> Things are shipping. Excited to go back to water but a little sad on leaving air cooling. More money being dumped but hey, that's water for you


Ok so what would be better for block then, pt nuke or killcoil, and what are the pros and cons of using each??

And trust I told myself aircoolings enough, the temps with my rv03+h80+690 are really good, but browsing threw this thread every other day changed my mind, I'm ordering the last few things for my build this Friday and then I put her together.... $1000 later


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I got a EK EN-Acetal Supreme-HF off H4rd5tyl3, opened it up, cleaned It and its all good no flaking, is this block going to be ok with distilled water and kill coil?? He used it with distilled water and pt nuke. I I know it was around this Gen when ek had all the flaking issues, I just want it to last me till haswell comes out.


Yes.

If it was going to go bad,it would of done so quite quickly,The percentage of actual flaking issues was very low.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ok so what would be better for block then, pt nuke or killcoil, and what are the pros and cons of using each??
> And trust I told myself aircoolings enough, the temps with my rv03+h80+690 are really good, but browsing threw this thread every other day changed my mind, I'm ordering the last few things for my build this Friday and then I put her together.... $1000 later


As B said, it would have gone bad a while ago if it was a bad one. So, if it has held up, it should be fine with any off-the-shelf biocide or kill coil.

Im going naked since I have a EN and a new non-EN blocks in my loop. Though, not by choice, i couldn't pass up the price on the blocks for my 590s. I'll see what works but there's a high probability these blocks are good. Knowing what I went through, I'm a little cautious with EK blocks though.


----------



## hammerforged

For everyone talking about corrosion heres a nice read:

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

Basically for harsh conditions they say that a difference of .15 is okay. Copper and nickel are .05. Copper and silver are .20 and nickel and silver are .15. Not sure what the difference for being under water is allowed but it should give you at least some insight on whats going on.

Military standard for Dissimilar metals (pdf link):

http://www.wbdg.org/ccb/FEDMIL/std889b.pdf

Best read:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/


----------



## Plutonium10

Martin's article is an interesting read. The 0.45 index difference between tin and silver has been a consideration of mine. Or the 0.30 difference between tin and nickel, for that matter. I'm overly paranoid about all nickel blocks after the big EK fiasco.


----------



## snapsimo

I read somewhere that even a Killcoil (silver) is enough of a dissimilar metal to start corrosion when it comes to nickel. I run Distilled and HydrX and so far it seems ok.
I've got Swiftech CPU block and EK 570 Nickel block. So far so good.
I work in the avaition industry and we get a lot of corrosion on aircraft because of dissimilar metals. Even two types of Aluminium cause corrosion.
Stainless steal and aluminium is a great one for it.


----------



## Plutonium10

Yeah, I had first planned on using a Heatkiller nickel-plated block in my loop. After reading more about galvanic corrosion I'm leaning more towards the all-copper one.


----------



## corysti

Well my watercooling build is almost done...While it may not be the greatest build in the world I think I done a good job for the first one and I've learned a few new things that I will know better on the next one









Btw, forgive the mess of wires at the bottom I was using that psu just to test for leaks. Im still sleeving my corsair powersupply. The case is a r4 with a push pull setup on the radiator.


----------



## Alfaa

Update to my PC:

Finally got some good tubing and a waterblock for my 680










Heres some pics of putting it on (my friend was doin' his 680 at the same time, so we got some with both cards):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












And heres how the other PC turned out:





Thanks for lookin'!


----------



## xUrban

Finally can officially join the club (although i had an H60 before, i didn't really count that







).


Were swimming now







. Just need to get the Cable sleeving done


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xUrban*
> 
> Finally can officially join the club (although i had an H60 before, i didn't really count that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Were swimming now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just need to get the Cable sleeving done


Finally a Swiftech Apogee Drive! How's the performance? Wondering if can power through a few more blocks and rads.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally a Swiftech Apogee Drive! How's the performance? Wondering if can power through a few more blocks and rads.


I've seen quite a few people using them in their Prodigy builds -- I bet the Owner's Club could give you more practical details.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I've seen quite a few people using them in their Prodigy builds -- I bet the Owner's Club could give you more practical details.


+1

Just curious tbh. I spent a little bit less in getting preowned stuff but I'm running a full loop.

Prodigy is a awesome looking little case. Might use for the wife's pc upgrade in the future.


----------



## xUrban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally a Swiftech Apogee Drive! How's the performance? Wondering if can power through a few more blocks and rads.


It seems pretty good so far, its only about as noisy as a GT AP-15 (the 1850 RPM ones). Running at 80% speed w/ prime95 running on a i7-3770k @ 4.2 and 7970 @ 1200 MHz it keeps everything at 50C (Stock MCP35X pump). At full speed I could see it easily doing 2-3 GPU's + CPU + 240 rad + 360 rad


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xUrban*
> 
> It seems pretty good so far, its only about as noisy as a GT AP-15 (the 1850 RPM ones). Running at 80% speed w/ prime95 running on a i7-3770k @ 4.2 and 7970 @ 1200 MHz it keeps everything at 50C (Stock MCP35X pump). At full speed I could see it easily doing 2-3 GPU's + CPU + 240 rad + 360 rad


How do you have the PWM setup? You have it maxing out at 50% duty cycle right? Oye, re-read that. You have it at 80%, you should have it running at 50-55% at the upper temp. It gets 95% of the performance at 50% duty cycle so anything above that is just added noise.

Side note, I just finished re-route and plumbing in two Monsta rads hahaha. They are freaking huge. I'm too tired now, but I should get up and put some water in it. Spent 28 bucks at the hardware store just on fasteners lol.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


a white pcb?









honestly have not seen that before.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> a white pcb?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> honestly have not seen that before.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814162106


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xUrban*
> 
> It seems pretty good so far, its only about as noisy as a GT AP-15 (the 1850 RPM ones). Running at 80% speed w/ prime95 running on a i7-3770k @ 4.2 and 7970 @ 1200 MHz it keeps everything at 50C (Stock MCP35X pump). At full speed I could see it easily doing 2-3 GPU's + CPU + 240 rad + 360 rad


nice! would have loved to get one but I went with a traditional setup. Might pickup a 3.25 down the road though.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814162106


very cool, good lookin on the link btw


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> How do you have the PWM setup? You have it maxing out at 50% duty cycle right? Oye, re-read that. You have it at 80%, you should have it running at 50-55% at the upper temp. It gets 95% of the performance at 50% duty cycle so anything above that is just added noise.
> Side note, I just finished re-route and plumbing in two Monsta rads hahaha. They are freaking huge. I'm too tired now, but I should get up and put some water in it. Spent 28 bucks at the hardware store just on fasteners lol.


where u gonna put more rads ? :-D


----------



## Ceadderman

Huddler is one seriously borked out POS I just went through 20 minutes of replies when suddenly the page "refreshed" on me. I didn't even f5 or click on anything. Just scrolled down to the next in line...









To the question if MCP350 will work with with 2 graphics, CPU and two Rads...

I have DDC-1T(x2) it handles my Main, CPU, 360, Res and EK Dual DDCv2 with 1 pump running 24/7 the other pump is JiC pump. I run 5 45s' , T Fitting for Drain Tube and 8 ft of 1/2"ID PrimoChill LRT with a Fillport. MCP 350= DDC-1T. Mainboard @ Load is 33c, 1100T CPU is 40c and Ambient temp is 28(27.777)c. I'd say that MCP 350 can handle what you will ask of it.









werm... go to the top link in my sig and speak with bmaverick. He'll get you fixed up right for your DDC. Then for $35 you can get a XSPC DDC Res Top. Will fit nicely in most Mids.









To bro with EK CPU block corrosion...









Apologies to everyone else if I fotgot you. It's never my intent to forget my OCN brethren. Someone needs to fix this POS Huddler system.
















~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> werm... go to the top link in my sig and speak with bmaverick. He'll get you fixed up right for your DDC. Then for $35 you can get a XSPC DDC Res
> ~Ceadder


Picked up a pump w/ koolance top-reservoir attachement and some tube bodies to go along with it. Just missing one tube o-ring and that's it. Got it at a good price with an older 3.2. Might just wait for a 3.25 priced nicely to show up on ebay.

I'll have a build log going once all parts arrive.

edit: just spec'd it new and I spent just half of that


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Picked up a pump w/ koolance top-reservoir attachement and some tube bodies to go along with it. Just missing one tube o-ring and that's it. Got it at a good price with an older 3.2. Might just wait for a 3.25 priced nicely to show up on ebay.
> I'll have a build log going once all parts arrive.
> edit: just spec'd it new and I spent just half of that


Yeah, some members are cool about selling stuff for a good price to quality members @ ocn.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Picked up a pump w/ koolance top-reservoir attachement and some tube bodies to go along with it. Just missing one tube o-ring and that's it. Got it at a good price with an older 3.2. Might just wait for a 3.25 priced nicely to show up on ebay.
> I'll have a build log going once all parts arrive.
> edit: just spec'd it new and I spent just half of that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, some members are cool about selling stuff for a good price to quality members @ ocn.
Click to expand...

For sure. It probably woulda taken me a lifetime b4 my broke azz could afford the loop I have now if I didn't buy through Marketplace or know the kickazz people I do.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Yeah, some members are cool about selling stuff for a good price to quality members @ ocn.










Its going to a good home with lots of crazy ideas installed







. I've always been a huge fan of the 3.2, but the 3.25 has me intrigued too







. Here's my old Koolance reservoir:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For sure. It probably woulda taken me a lifetime b4 my broke azz could afford the loop I have now if I didn't buy through Marketplace or know the kickazz people I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Last push as I got final orders from the missus: now or never. New baby on the way, all future money will go the growing family. Going to setup a nice build to help me with those days of a toddler in her terrible-threes and a newborn







. Also, need to make my system quieter as the missus didn't like the noise of the reference 7970, which I tried to explain its not that bad. Then I told her I wanted to add two more







. Ultimatum was issued. I understood and must comply.

Final splurge item: BD Appleseed and Ex Machina.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Yeah, some members are cool about selling stuff for a good price to quality members @ ocn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its going to a good home with lots of crazy ideas installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've always been a huge fan of the 3.2, but the 3.25 has me intrigued too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Here's my old Koolance reservoir:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For sure. It probably woulda taken me a lifetime b4 my broke azz could afford the loop I have now if I didn't buy through Marketplace or know the kickazz people I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Last push as I got final orders from the missus: now or never. New baby on the way, all future money will go the growing family. Going to setup a nice build to help me with those days of a toddler in her terrible-threes and a newborn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also, need to make my system quieter as the missus didn't like the noise of the reference 7970, which I tried to explain its not that bad. Then I told her I wanted to add two more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ultimatum was issued. I understood and must comply.
> 
> Final splurge item: BD Appleseed and Ex Machina.
Click to expand...

I'm surprised she didn't open the door and point.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

Just a sneak peak of how the rads look in my current mod.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'll wait til the mod is finalized before casting judgment. Looks pretty decent though.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Steampunk theme?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Steampunk theme?


Aye. Internal is rusty and the external will be leather and maybe some copper


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Aye. Internal is rusty and the external will be leather and maybe some copper


DOPE


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Aye. Internal is rusty and the external will be leather and maybe some copper


faux rust paint?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Aye. Internal is rusty and the external will be leather and maybe some copper
> 
> 
> 
> DOPE
Click to expand...

Check out the worklog for more awesomeness








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Aye. Internal is rusty and the external will be leather and maybe some copper
> 
> 
> 
> faux rust paint?
Click to expand...

You should really read the worklog...

I used sophisticated finishes stuff.
Info: http://www.patina.com/patina.html
Where I got it from: http://www.dickblick.com/products/instant-iron-and-instant-rust/?wmcp=amazon&wmcid=feeds&wmckw=27105-9006


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Check out the worklog for more awesomeness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should really read the worklog...
> I used sophisticated finishes stuff.
> Info: http://www.patina.com/patina.html
> Where I got it from: http://www.dickblick.com/products/instant-iron-and-instant-rust/?wmcp=amazon&wmcid=feeds&wmckw=27105-9006


I had to read the last URL three times before I realized it said: dick blick


----------



## samoth777

What's a good way to get rid of scratches on radiators?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> What's a good way to get rid of scratches on radiators?


Probably sand and repaint


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Aye. Internal is rusty and the external will be leather and maybe some copper


you should throw some Hammertone paint on that.
would look sick and match the rest of what your doing
with your case.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Just a sneak peak of how the rads look in my current mod.


Amazing build!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Aye. Internal is rusty and the external will be leather and maybe some copper
> 
> 
> 
> you should throw some Hammertone paint on that.
> would look sick and match the rest of what your doing
> with your case.
Click to expand...

This! If you're in the States Fuganator ole chap, you should definitely look at getting some Rustoleum Universal Advanced Formula hammered metal paint and giving some things the hammered metal treatment. Copper, Bronze and Steel.









Don't know if it's available outside but I'm reasonably sure someone has something similar.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Aye. Internal is rusty and the external will be leather and maybe some copper
> 
> 
> 
> you should throw some Hammertone paint on that.
> would look sick and match the rest of what your doing
> with your case.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This! If you're in the States Fuganator ole chap, you should definitely look at getting some Rustoleum Universal Advanced Formula hammered metal paint and giving some things the hammered metal treatment. Copper, Bronze and Steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know if it's available outside but I'm reasonably sure someone has something similar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

This is what I ordered: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQ7HGI/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> where u gonna put more rads ? :-D


Well you see... I reasoned it by moving my RX rads to a nzxt phantom and well I need replacement rads right? Right!

Gonna stick a 480 in a phantom. It feels tight just thinking about it.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> a white pcb?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> honestly have not seen that before.


Pretty sweet, right?

Getting a Galaxy branded version of that is harder than you think. KFA2 also sells those cards, as they are the European side of Galaxy.


----------



## Fonne

*EVGA 680 FTW also to get a FC water block*



http://www.ekwb.com/news/265/19/EVGA-680-FTW-also-to-get-a-FC-water-block/


----------



## steelkevin

Since you're mentioning GPU water blocks time to bring this up a couple pages since nobody saw it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Now that my loops running I'm really considering getting rid of my 560 Ti and watercooling a 7870. But EK's 7870 blocks are both ugly and stupid (only being able to connect tubing to the bottom is beyond ******ed, I really don't know what EK was thinking this year but clearly they weren't thinking well) and that's all you can get in France. Luckily my dad will be back living in the UK by December so I can order things from UK retailers and have him send me them.
> What would you guys advise (block+backplate) for a 7870 ?
> This is really bothering me... (the whole EK messing up thing).


----------



## KyleM

i'm going to get the h100. is it worth it to spend the extra effort on a DIY water cooling system?


----------



## Ecks9T

steelkevin: i would just wait since the 560 you have is still strong. or just get another 560 since they arent too expensive now.


----------



## Ecks9T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyleM*
> 
> i'm going to get the h100. is it worth it to spend the extra effort on a DIY water cooling system?


personally i have the h100 it does its job fine. but to be running a custom loop is worthwhile and leaves room for expansion and future upgrades

sorry for dbl post. ,


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecks9T*
> 
> steelkevin: i would just wait since the 560 you have is still strong. or just get another 560 since they arent too expensive now.


It has nothing to do with power but dB. I can't stand my GPU's noise anymore even at idle I can hear it. Water cooling is like an awesome curse. Once you start you can't stop and you have to go all the way









Oh and I'll probably get a cheap Heatsink (CM 212 something or the new one that's not yet out) and sell my PC (I'll keep my Water Cooling loop, case and SSD, maybe the HDD too, don't know yet) to get real stuff so I can finally get rid of what's mainly still a 2+ year-old Dell PC. Right now my mobo (see my components below) won't allow for any kind of overclock nor CF/SLI


----------



## steelkevin

The bottom to top rad tubing is too short in my opinion, I imagined it a bit looser and the reservoir to pump one wasn't supposed to touch that fitting. But since I'll be changing my rig sooner or later I figured I wouldn't bother fixing those right now and they could wait.
I've cut a 60x60mm square off my (very) old Razer Goliathus Control mousemat (never by that, it's terrible except as an anti vibration, Razer's Scarab mat is amazing though).
The SSD is right behind the HDD sort of hanging mid air, none are attached our anything, can't say I hear the HDD's vibrations more than the GPU's though so I'll leave them that way for the time being.

Mayhems Blue Berry 250Ml concentrate + 750Ml DI water + 10Ml Mayhems Blue Dye btw








and 8mm ID / 11mm OD clearflex 60 tubing.


----------



## ugotd8

What would be the scenario where a high (or higher than 8) FPI radiator would be called for ? It seems to me when shopping for a new rad my mind is made up on low FPI rads so I can run AP15s @ ~1100RPM. Am I missing some magic sauce here ? What's the secret to GREAT performing loops ? Is it putting up with fan noise ?

Hoping someone can shed some light on this for me, I can't seem to wrap my tiny little brain around this nuance.

NM, this should be it's own thread methinks.


----------



## InsideJob

@steelkevin That CPU must love having all that rad space to itself


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> @steelkevin That CPU must love having all that rad space to itself


Ikr, sound way overkill and kind of ******ed actually but my full loop only cost me 200€.

Rads+WB+Pump+Top+Reservoir+4 Noctuas cost me 150€ second hand.
Tubing/Yate Loons+fittings+cables cost me 45€.
And the liquids were free thanks to Michael (Mayhems rep and founder).


----------



## InsideJob

Can't wait to start my loop







This thread kind of makes me unhappy with my Kuhler 620


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EVGA 680 FTW also to get a FC water block*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/265/19/EVGA-680-FTW-also-to-get-a-FC-water-block/










I just recommended a GTX 670.

The option was the most expensive 670 or the cheapest 680. I'm not a fan of Galaxy nor non Reference cards so my line of thinking was to give advice to go with a known commodity(EVGA) and Reference Card, Free Shipping and BL2 over the Galaxy 680 that also required shipping cost for more.

You can go either direction with the EVGA for watercooling, but not so much with the Galaxy.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Check out the worklog for more awesomeness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should really read the worklog...
> I used sophisticated finishes stuff.
> Info: http://www.patina.com/patina.html
> Where I got it from: http://www.dickblick.com/products/instant-iron-and-instant-rust/?wmcp=amazon&wmcid=feeds&wmckw=27105-9006


That's the stuff. I just called it that way







. I remember one of the Mod's build was steampunk and he used that stuff. I can't remember (I'm sure someone will) but he used copper pipes for all wiring conduits and I believe for the water tubing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just recommended a GTX 670.
> The option was the most expensive 670 or the cheapest 680. I'm not a fan of Galaxy nor non Reference cards so my line of thinking was to give advice to go with a known commodity(EVGA) and Reference Card, Free Shipping and BL2 over the Galaxy 680 that also required shipping cost for more.
> You can go either direction with the EVGA for watercooling, but not so much with the Galaxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


670 w/ 680 pcb. Have more options for water block that way.


----------



## Egameman

Just got my new Switch 810 White..

If time and money goes hand in hand I will build a AC3 build before release 22.november (for computers).
Got anotjer radiator, some tubing and more fittings and rotaries coming in tommorrow. Still waiting on Mayhems X1 red concentrate.

Pictures are coming when I get back from work

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Fuganater

I want to use copper tubing but its just so expensive to get in the states.


----------



## koniu777

almost done with my Cosmos 2. 360 sr1 up top 140 sr1 in the front, temps are real nice for a cpu/gpu combo


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> almost done with my Cosmos 2. 360 sr1 up top 140 sr1 in the front, temps are real nice for a cpu/gpu combo





Looks good








Awesome window!


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome window!


thank you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 670 w/ 680 pcb. Have more options for water block that way.


Agreed.

2 down...1 to go...


----------



## hammerforged

koniu777: Looks great! Kill that red EVGA led or maybe wire in a blue one.

B NEGATIVE: Love the black hole edition especially with the inverted mobo where you can actually see em. Makes me wish I had one of those instead of my koolance block.


----------



## Fonne

Frozencpu has added some really nice stuff ...

*XSPC AX Rads*



*Swiftech Helix 140mm*



*Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi - Clear*



*Phobya Bulkhead Vintage Matte Black*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I want to use copper tubing but its just so expensive to get in the states.


Hardware store? (Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc.). Even plumbing specialty shops will have them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> almost done with my Cosmos 2. 360 sr1 up top 140 sr1 in the front, temps are real nice for a cpu/gpu combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


Impressive! I love the Cosmos II and it was just lacking that window. You've made it so clean and beautiful. That's some awesome work there mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Agreed.
> 2 down...1 to go...


Very nice. I believe the Windforce III uses the same 680 pcb








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Frozencpu has added some really nice stuff ...
> *Swiftech AX Rads*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> *Swiftech Helix 140mm*
> 
> *Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi - Clear*
> 
> *Phobya Bulkhead Vintage Matte Black*


That's a very nice detail from Swiftech.

I would love to see radiator manufacturers at a strip of metal in between the channels/fins and the screw hole. This would save users from puncturing the channels (has happened to me). It would add something extra to the radiator but it would be less than buying a new rad. Other than that, a screw hole that has a stop/trough to prevent the screw from going any further is another idea.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would love to see radiator manufacturers at a strip of metal in between the channels/fins and the screw hole. This would save users from puncturing the channels (has happened to me). It would add something extra to the radiator but it would be less than buying a new rad. Other than that, a screw hole that has a stop/trough to prevent the screw from going any further is another idea.


Xnine posted these in the Switch 810 forum at some point and I have to assume they work pretty well.


----------



## Fuganater

I'm stuck in Africa







No shops like that around here.

Also 12mm is really really hard to find online. I only found it at McMaster Carr


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Xnine posted these in the Switch 810 forum at some point and I have to assume they work pretty well.


I've seen those but I think the solution needs to be on the radiator rather than the screws imho. Props to Koolance for making these though.


----------



## aeonoscence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hardware store? (Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc.). Even plumbing specialty shops will have them.
> Impressive! I love the Cosmos II and it was just lacking that window. You've made it so clean and beautiful. That's some awesome work there mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. I believe the Windforce III uses the same 680 pcb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a very nice detail from Swiftech.
> I would love to see radiator manufacturers at a strip of metal in between the channels/fins and the screw hole. This would save users from puncturing the channels (has happened to me). It would add something extra to the radiator but it would be less than buying a new rad. Other than that, a screw hole that has a stop/trough to prevent the screw from going any further is another idea.


Mate, its an XSPC AX rad


----------



## xUrban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> How do you have the PWM setup? You have it maxing out at 50% duty cycle right? Oye, re-read that. You have it at 80%, you should have it running at 50-55% at the upper temp. It gets 95% of the performance at 50% duty cycle so anything above that is just added noise.
> Side note, I just finished re-route and plumbing in two Monsta rads hahaha. They are freaking huge. I'm too tired now, but I should get up and put some water in it. Spent 28 bucks at the hardware store just on fasteners lol.


Yea i have it on PWM, was just running it at 80% when doing the prime95 on it, most of the time its running between 30-50% for daily use


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hardware store? (Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc.). Even plumbing specialty shops will have them.
> Impressive! I love the Cosmos II and it was just lacking that window. You've made it so clean and beautiful. That's some awesome work there mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. I believe the Windforce III uses the same 680 pcb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a very nice detail from Swiftech.
> *I would love to see radiator manufacturers at a strip of metal in between the channels/fins and the screw hole.* This would save users from puncturing the channels (has happened to me). It would add something extra to the radiator but it would be less than buying a new rad. Other than that, a screw hole that has a stop/trough to prevent the screw from going any further is another idea.


Been done already. Look closely and you'll see them on the Nexxos rads.

http://i.imgur.com/y46ny.jpg


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I'm stuck in Africa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No shops like that around here.
> Also 12mm is really really hard to find online. I only found it at McMaster Carr


Hmmm...have you tried a local plumber to see if they can get some for you?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> Mate, its an XSPC AX rad


Your right, but I wasn't the original poster







I just merely commented on the added design








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Been done already. Look closely and you'll see them on the Nexxos rads.
> http://i.imgur.com/y46ny.jpg


Nice! Hard to see but that's what I'm talking about







.

Btw, you went with the Alphacool Monsta? 80mm of beefy rad thickness


----------



## Fonne

Swiftech AX = XSPC AX







(Was written a bit fast) ...

Is just waiting on them releasing the 140mm AX


----------



## aeonoscence

Haha im waiting for the release of 140mm GTs


----------



## mdatmo

An update of my rig since I went with 2011:

In the near future I plan to work on aesthetic changes, such as sleeving and removing that ugly PSU sticker.


----------



## TopFuel1471

WIP

Finally got the loop mocked up.



I've never seen anyone shove a RX240 with push/pull up in a Midi before. Tinkered around with some random Bitspower fittings until I got it all in there.

Now to finish up unisleeving. Have to let my thumbs recover from being impaled by staples first. I should really invest in a pin tool.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TopFuel1471*
> 
> WIP
> Finally got the loop mocked up.
> 
> I've never seen anyone shove a RX240 with push/pull up in a Midi before. Tinkered around with some random Bitspower fittings until I got it all in there.
> Now to finish up unisleeving. Have to let my thumbs recover from being impaled by staples first. I should really invest in a pin tool.


Wow! NZXT really did a good job on the design of the midi. Do you plan on putting a rad infront?


----------



## mironccr345

You mean Fractal Design.


----------



## LiquidHaus

lovin' the company name errors you guys are making


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> lovin' the company name errors you guys are making


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> Haha im waiting for the release of 140mm GTs


Is this a pipe dream or a reality?


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Btw, you went with the Alphacool Monsta? 80mm of beefy rad thickness


Quickly snapped pic for joo. Note how much the bottom rad fills the space.


----------



## simonfredette

quad sli!! no one should be allowed to get quad sli until the rest of us have triple.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Hear, hear!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Quickly snapped pic for joo. Note how much the bottom rad fills the space.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Quickly snapped pic for joo. Note how much the bottom rad fills the space.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So sick...

First DT Direct pic in the wild I've seen. Props to your testicles.









EDIT: yours and supericla's...







You both setting the bar.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Makes my rig (and testicles) feel inadequate....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Quickly snapped pic for joo. Note how much the bottom rad fills the space.


cool. Running out space with the 700D? Check my build old 800D log. You can stick two Monsta 480s in there








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> quad sli *crossfire*!! no one should be allowed to get quad sli *crossfire* until the rest of us have triple.


fixed


----------



## Ceadderman

I would second Si's motion but ammend that to NOBODY SHOULD HAVE TRI-SLi or TriFire til Ceadder has water cooled Crossfire Bishes!!! Is no fair teasing a man who is trying to get things modded on a budget with systems that get him dreaming bigger than he can afford. Y'all should be ashamed. Someday I'll kick y'all back into the Apple IIe days and Room sized dot matrix systems.... HIIIIIIIIIIIIII YAH!!!









Til then carry on.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would second Si's motion but ammend that to NOBODY SHOULD HAVE TRI-SLi or TriFire til Ceadder has water cooled Crossfire Bishes!!! Is no fair teasing a man who is trying to get things modded on a budget with systems that get him dreaming bigger than he can afford. Y'all should be ashamed. Someday I'll kick y'all back into the Apple IIe days and Room sized dot matrix systems.... HIIIIIIIIIIIIII YAH!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Til then carry on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


When you're pushing three screens, it does help a ton. With the newest cards though, two is closing the gap. But you never know how demanding some future games will be as well as larger resolutions are becoming popular. Its hella expensive tbh


----------



## Ceadderman

I know, but a fella can't have dreams like this without the funding to carry it off. Not without building a few more systems for clients and selling things that he don't need.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

sli crossfire , you say tomato .. all that means in the end is your are using the inferior race of graphics cards ( regardless of how much better they are for a lower price )


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> cool. Running out space with the 700D? Check my build old 800D log. You can stick two Monsta 480s in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fixed


Psst, did you notice the QD's going out the back? The easy button way of getting more rad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> sli crossfire , you say tomato .. all that means in the end is your are using the inferior race of graphics cards ( regardless of how much better they are for a lower price )


You wouldn't want to say AMG = M. Or did you thought it was a GTX 7970 FTW Black Ed.?







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Psst, did you notice the QD's going out the back? The easy button way of getting more rad.


Ha! don't look for the easy way out and go external. Be a man and stick as much as possible inside. Anyone can hook up a rad externally. It takes some serious thought to stuff as much rad as possible inside. I did it, so can you









edit: here ya go:



The "Monsta" wasn't available then, so I had to settle for two RX480s


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Is this a pipe dream or a reality?


Pipedream.....

GTs are enterprise based fans,140mm doesn't get a look in that market place.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I'm stuck in Africa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No shops like that around here.
> Also 12mm is really really hard to find online. I only found it at McMaster Carr
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm...have you tried a local plumber to see if they can get some for you?
Click to expand...

HAHAHAHA! No intent to be rude but I guess you have never been to Africa? There really are no "local" shops like there are in America and Europe. Like if you need a tire fixed, you don't go to a garage (there are none). You stop by some guy that has a stack of tires on the side of the road.

But I was thinking of having my dad to go a store in America and looking for it but its America, almost no one sells stuff in mm.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Breakfast of Champions...










Loop will be filled today!!


----------



## driftingforlife

Good, a brit with his tea


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Good, a brit with his tea


You know it makes sense.

Tea= life worth living.


----------



## driftingforlife

Indeed


----------



## Saurian

Hmm, so it seems I may be able to fit 2 240mm radiators or 1x240mm and 2x120mm in my case with a little dremel work. What is the smallest/most compact 120mm or 240mm radiator you know of? I'm not talking about depth of the radiator; I'm only concerned with the height.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Loop finished....


----------



## KaRLiToS

More Pics B-Negative, your loop looks awsome.

How many PSUs do you have?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> More Pics B-Negative, your loop looks awsome.
> How many PSUs do you have?


Just the one...a dirty great Enermax Platimax 1500w.

Check out the log,link in my sig.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You know it makes sense.
> Tea= life worth living.


Yes. Over ice, though. I have drank iced tea every day (well except when I was in military two years) since I was a little boy. Right now about two quarts a day.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You know it makes sense.
> Tea= life worth living.


Amen.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You wouldn't want to say AMG = M. Or did you thought it was a GTX 7970 FTW Black Ed.?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ha! don't look for the easy way out and go external. Be a man and stick as much as possible inside. Anyone can hook up a rad externally. It takes some serious thought to stuff as much rad as possible inside. I did it, so can you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: here ya go:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "Monsta" wasn't available then, so I had to settle for two RX480s


Did you ever find someone to buy that hacked up 800D? I've been looking around trying to find a used one for a mod I want to do


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Did you ever find someone to buy that hacked up 800D? I've been looking around trying to find a used one for a mod I want to do


if you want one for cheap ill de-rivet mine and ship it flat packed for ya, shoot me a pm if this interests you


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> almost done with my Cosmos 2. 360 sr1 up top 140 sr1 in the front, temps are real nice for a cpu/gpu combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


THis looks amazing. I love your window side panel. What are your temps like? I will have a similar loop setup soon. 140x3 and a 140x1 for a 2500k and gtx 670.... a bit overkill







.


----------



## koniu777

Idle temps low 20s prime load mid 50s at 4.8ghz. Video card tops at high 30s

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> almost done with my Cosmos 2. 360 sr1 up top 140 sr1 in the front, temps are real nice for a cpu/gpu combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks Amazing.. Great Window...


----------



## koniu777

Thx guys









Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Idle temps low 20s prime load mid 50s at 4.8ghz. Video card tops at high 30s
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Idle temps low 20s prime load mid 50s at 4.8ghz. Video card tops at high 30s


Love it. IDK why I don't have temps like that (similar setup, but more raddage) I'm picking up a few more MCP350's because my 2700k [email protected] on 3 360mm radiators should not be at 60c (4.6Ghz) Hell it's the same temp it was previously on 1 radiator.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Breakfast of Champions...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop will be filled today!!


Yummy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop finished....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


Very nice








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Did you ever find someone to buy that hacked up 800D? I've been looking around trying to find a used one for a mod I want to do


I did actually. Fairly quick, though the super low price and local helped. A local member had been following my logs and he jumped on it once he saw it for sale. I left it in pretty good shape and gave it a nice coat of satin black.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Love it. IDK why I don't have temps like that (similar setup, but more raddage) I'm picking up a few more MCP350's because my 2700k [email protected] on 3 360mm radiators should not be at 60c (4.6Ghz) Hell it's the same temp it was previously on 1 radiator.


If he has under 30 idle temperature on the CPU then he must have some really low ambient temperature.

Personally I have idle temperatures of 32-38ºC on the CPU and 30-32ºC on both GPU's, at load I get 65-68ºC on the CPU (4.8GHz) and 48-52ºC on the GPU's, this is with all 3 fans on push at 750-800RPM and the pump at half speed. If I put everything at max speed I can scratch another 4-5ºC. Those measurements are when both the GPU's and CPU are under full load, to make sure I reach the absolute max for the CPU, I could do 5GHz HT OFF 1.42v like I used to do before and still keep it below 72ºC with the fans at 700-800RPM but I will just wait until this horrible weather goes away.









This is with an ambient temperature of ~30ºC, even at night, which is really damn hot, once the summer temperatures go away and winter cold comes, it'll be a lot better.









The good thing is even with this horrible ambient temperature I still get nice temperatures on both the CPU and the GPU while still keeping the rig dead silent.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> If he has under 30 idle temperature on the CPU then he must have some really low ambient temperature.
> Personally I have idle temperatures of 32-38ºC on the CPU and 30-32ºC on both GPU's, at load I get 65-68ºC on the CPU (4.8GHz) and 48-52ºC on the GPU's, this is with all 3 fans on push at 750-800RPM and the pump at half speed. If I put everything at max speed I can scratch another 4-5ºC. Those measurements are when both the GPU's and CPU are under full load, to make sure I reach the absolute max for the CPU, I could do 5GHz HT OFF 1.42v like I used to do before and still keep it below 72ºC with the fans at 700-800RPM but I will just wait until this horrible weather goes away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is with an ambient temperature of ~30ºC, even at night, which is really damn hot, once the summer temperatures go away and winter cold comes, it'll be a lot better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good thing is even with this horrible ambient temperature I still get nice temperatures on both the CPU and the GPU while still keeping the rig dead silent.


I have fairy high ambient too, it's 83f or 23c in here atm.

It's just I expected adding 720mm more of EX360 to just my CPU loop.. I would be looking at lower temps, load temp especially, however it's the same as it was when I was on a single EX360. I really think I have flow issues or something, doesn't make sense.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I have fairy high ambient too, it's 83f or 23c in here atm.
> It's just I expected adding 720mm more of EX360 to just my CPU loop.. I would be looking at lower temps, load temp especially, however it's the same as it was when I was on a single EX360. I really think I have flow issues or something, doesn't make sense.


83ºF is about ~28ºC, which is hot indeed, I have about 86ºF these days.

I have good temperatures considering I'm using a triple 180mm (540mm) radiator with only 3 fans at push and they're only running at about 700-800rpm, I can't ask for more can I, great temperatures, great silence.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I have fairy high ambient too, it's 83f or 23c in here atm.
> It's just I expected adding 720mm more of EX360 to just my CPU loop.. I would be looking at lower temps, load temp especially, however it's the same as it was when I was on a single EX360. I really think I have flow issues or something, doesn't make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 83ºF is about ~28ºC, which is hot indeed, I have about 86ºF these days.
> 
> I have good temperatures considering I'm using a triple 180mm (540mm) radiator with only 3 fans at push and they're only running at about 700-800rpm, I can't ask for more can I, great temperatures, great silence.
Click to expand...

Yeah I was gonna say...

I keep this in my browser tabs for spot on point Fahrenheit to Celsius conversions...

Online Conversion Temperature Conversion 

You can't go wrong.









~Ceadder


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I was gonna say...
> I keep this in my browser tabs for spot on point Fahrenheit to Celsius conversions...
> Online Conversion Temperature Conversion
> You can't go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I misread, I saw 23 when it clearly said 28


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I was gonna say...
> I keep this in my browser tabs for spot on point Fahrenheit to Celsius conversions...
> Online Conversion Temperature Conversion
> You can't go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I misread, I saw 23 when it clearly said 28
Click to expand...

Happens.























~Ceaddder


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> If he has under 30 idle temperature on the CPU then he must have some really low ambient temperature.
> Personally I have idle temperatures of 32-38ºC on the CPU and 30-32ºC on both GPU's, at load I get 65-68ºC on the CPU (4.8GHz) and 48-52ºC on the GPU's, this is with all 3 fans on push at 750-800RPM and the pump at half speed. If I put everything at max speed I can scratch another 4-5ºC. Those measurements are when both the GPU's and CPU are under full load, to make sure I reach the absolute max for the CPU, I could do 5GHz HT OFF 1.42v like I used to do before and still keep it below 72ºC with the fans at 700-800RPM but I will just wait until this horrible weather goes away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is with an ambient temperature of ~30ºC, even at night, which is really damn hot, once the summer temperatures go away and winter cold comes, it'll be a lot better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good thing is even with this horrible ambient temperature I still get nice temperatures on both the CPU and the GPU while still keeping the rig dead silent.


my ambient temps are in the low 20s, as far as idle temps go I run my cpu in offset mode, that help idle temps a lot. without offset voltage i get idle temps in the high 20s low 30s


----------



## wermad

stick with Celsius. It has made my hobby so much easier to understand. Only time i check Fahrenheit is the local weather, though it usually has both listed.

I'm done with all my purchases. Just patiently waiting for things to arrive


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> stick with Celsius. It has made my hobby so much easier to understand. Only time i check Fahrenheit is the local weather, though it usually has both listed.
> I'm done with all my purchases. Just patiently waiting for things to arrive


Plus it sounds better...

"My CPU loads at 50C"

"wow, awesome! ... Oh wait, that's 122F !!!!"


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Breakfast of Champions...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop will be filled today!!


How well those Corsair SP120 work for you? are these the QE or PE? would you recommend them to the Antec Kuhelr 920 (current) or the XSPC EX rad (future







) ?
i'm asking since these are the only decent fans that i can but localy without ordering from abroad (i.e. US). after those my only option is going with the Zalman ZM-F3 fans (which should be good) and the Gentle Typhoons were the best option but they aren't available anymore









(plus, do you think it is possible to mount a 3.5 fan controller in a HDD bay?)


----------



## hotdun




----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotdun*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn that's a nice banchetto. So hard to resist...


----------



## hammerforged

The Corsair SP120's are pretty awesome. The quiet editions are plenty for my low FPI (Fins per Inch) rad. Get he performance ones if your rad is very dense and needs a lot of pressure to get the air through. They are built really well and look good as well


----------



## Lazy Bear

What motherboard is that? I know it's an X58 board, but I've never seen those DIMM slot colours before.


----------



## hotdun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> What motherboard is that? I know it's an X58 board, but I've never seen those DIMM slot colours before.


It's the last motherboard before DFI unfortunately left our market - X58-T3eH8


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> How well those Corsair SP120 work for you? are these the QE or PE? would you recommend them to the Antec Kuhelr 920 (current) or the XSPC EX rad (future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) ?
> i'm asking since these are the only decent fans that i can but localy without ordering from abroad (i.e. US). after those my only option is going with the Zalman ZM-F3 fans (which should be good) and the Gentle Typhoons were the best option but they aren't available anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (*plus, do you think it is possible to mount a 3.5 fan controller in a HDD bay?*)


These are the PE versions,very quiet and shift plenty of air. I recommend them.

With Dremel,anything is possible


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> The Corsair SP120's are pretty awesome. The quiet editions are plenty for my low FPI (Fins per Inch) rad. Get he performance ones if your rad is very dense and needs a lot of pressure to get the air through. They are built really well and look good as well


yeah thanks! i'm thinking of getting them for my Kuhler 920 rad for now (like the H80, restrictive) and later on the XSPC EX 240 rad by use the motherboard headers to control them (the Maximus V Formula headers and the Fan Xpert II are awesome for that job) or i'll just run them on the resistor that comes with the fans. my other option is to try and mount the Scythe Kaze Q8 3.5' controller as an HDD in my Antec 1100 which should work. what do you think?


----------



## Fuganater

You guys see this yet? 40 fans on a H100!


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You guys see this yet? 40 fans on a H100!


saw this. it was very entertaining. the hottest core is -7 degrees hahhaha


----------



## hammerforged

Ha that cost the same as strapping a GTX 680 to an H100


----------



## dizzledon




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzledon*


Lovely









Alphacool?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You guys see this yet? 40 fans on a H100!


Its a troll video,he says so in the last 3 mins of the vid.
You cant go subzero without a phase unit or evap cooler etc. A poxy h100 couldnt go subzero even if was in the Arctic....


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You guys see this yet? 40 fans on a H100!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a troll video,he says so in the last 3 mins of the vid.
> You cant go subzero without a phase unit or evap cooler etc. A poxy h100 couldnt go subzero even if was in the Arctic....
Click to expand...

I bet if you drop the rad in some dry ice bath you could


----------



## Fuganater

Either way, its just funny to see that many fans on that rad.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a troll video,he says so in the last 3 mins of the vid.
> You cant go subzero without a phase unit or evap cooler etc. A poxy h100 couldnt go subzero even if was in the Arctic....


thought so. i wonder how he got Hw Monitor to display those temps.,


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzledon*


what color scheme are you planning with those fittings? (black+copper?)


----------



## iCrap

Anybody know how to quiet a really noisy MCP350? Its like a constant buzz and its really annoying.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1307402/mcp350-loud-and-noisy/0_100


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Anybody know how to quiet a really noisy MCP350? Its like a constant buzz and its really annoying.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1307402/mcp350-loud-and-noisy/0_100


Technically, you don't have a MCP350 though.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzledon*


It's very... Steampunk. I like it.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> It's very... Steampunk. I like it.


Are you going copper tubing? It would be so steamy!

Would awesome if you stick one of those steam generators in the case.


----------



## motokill36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzledon*


Love it Looking Good


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzledon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is baws!! Looks really good, post more pics!


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lovely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool?


Koolance


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Koolance


He means the fittings,not the pump top.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Anybody know how to quiet a really noisy MCP350? Its like a constant buzz and its really annoying.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1307402/mcp350-loud-and-noisy/0_100
> 
> 
> 
> Technically, you don't have a MCP350 though.
Click to expand...

Shoggy Sandwich or do like I do and just set the pump atop foam packing material. It was free with the Packing from a Notebook. You can get this stuff cheap from most RMA packing materials that are FedEX'ed from companies like HP, Compaq and Toshiba as well. Those are the only ones I can think of but this stuff is sturdy enough to take a bit of weight and not get squished flat while soft enough to dampen noise creating vibrations.







As you can see I had to bolster one half of my Pump setup. But I've since replaced the bolster with a pump. And even when both are running there isn't enough vibration to increase the noise. Also the way it's setup allows for plenty of airflow coming from the 200mm fan that is cooling my HDDs' until I get those under water and remove it. My goal is to remove as much unnecessary noise as possible.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He means the fittings,not the pump top.


This


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shoggy Sandwich or do like I do and just set the pump atop foam packing material. It was free with the Packing from a Notebook. You can get this stuff cheap from most RMA packing materials that are FedEX'ed from companies like HP, Compaq and Toshiba as well. Those are the only ones I can think of but this stuff is sturdy enough to take a bit of weight and not get squished flat while soft enough to dampen noise creating vibrations.
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see I had to bolster one half of my Pump setup. But I've since replaced the bolster with a pump. And even when both are running there isn't enough vibration to increase the noise. Also the way it's setup allows for plenty of airflow coming from the 200mm fan that is cooling my HDDs' until I get those under water and remove it. My goal is to remove as much unnecessary noise as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea, but in my case the actual pump is making an electrical buzzing noise.


----------



## Ceadderman

My apologies I guess I read that wrong. Not sure you can do anything to fix it once you get noise in your pump other than start looking for a replacement.









Someone else may have another option that I'm not aware of however. I hope that this is the case.









~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotdun*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that sir, is amazing


----------



## wermad

Some stuff came in.







^^^Yes, those are XSPC compression fittings. Thought I give them a try as they're not that expensive. Different approach but it seems practical. Obviously, there's no grip on the bottom base but they did notch a slash on the barb portion *and* the bottom g1/4 threaded part. The latter is most likely to help remove a fitting on a piece of tube (not threaded to a g1/4 port), which can happen some times. The notch above is for installation purposes. A simple penny ($0.01 USD) easily fits and can rotate it to get it on or off. I think this will be much better than the traditional gripping of the bottom piece of a compression fitting. I've seen these notches on some other fittings. I do love the Monsoons but I couldn't really see myslef spending a lot of money on the fittings. Most of the money was spent on the gpu(s) so I had to plan the other parts carefully.

B-Negative, no need to update my post. Just sharing my incoming parts


----------



## simonfredette

yeah thats a really nice workbench , I want to build a desk as my folding rig but this makes me think twice .. the desk might still win though ( I need space )


----------



## dizzledon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lovely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool?


yes, Alphacool


----------



## dizzledon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> what color scheme are you planning with those fittings? (black+copper?)


yes, mainly black and copper. build log is in my sig.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> It's very... Steampunk. I like it.


thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Are you going copper tubing? It would be so steamy!
> Would awesome if you stick one of those steam generators in the case.


not going to be using copper tubing on the first iteration of the build, may happen in the future though!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motokill36*
> 
> Love it Looking Good


cheers!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That is baws!! Looks really good, post more pics!


more pics in my build log, getting near the end of it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Koolance


yes, Koolance pump top.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My apologies I guess I read that wrong. Not sure you can do anything to fix it once you get noise in your pump other than start looking for a replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone else may have another option that I'm not aware of however. I hope that this is the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I had something similar going on way back with my MCP355. Turned out to be noise from the bay res. I was advised at the time to disassemble the pump and place a tiny drop of household oil on the ceramic tip. I didn't actually do that but that was the advice at the time. YMMV.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Leak test....

Been solid so far,12 hrs and its time for teh OS to go on.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Leak test....
> Been solid so far,12 hrs and its time for teh OS to go on.


Dang, I wish I was there to see the engine starts


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Leak test....
> Been solid so far,12 hrs and its time for teh OS to go on.


Besides being enough computer power for say the next ten years or so.

What do you plan on using this absolute monster for?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

BOINC,Gaming...bit of Solidworks on the side...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some stuff came in.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^Yes, those are XSPC compression fittings. Thought I give them a try as they're not that expensive. Different approach but it seems practical. Obviously, there's no grip on the bottom base but they did notch a slash on the barb portion *and* the bottom g1/4 threaded part. The latter is most likely to help remove a fitting on a piece of tube (not threaded to a g1/4 port), which can happen some times. The notch above is for installation purposes. A simple penny ($0.01 USD) easily fits and can rotate it to get it on or off. I think this will be much better than the traditional gripping of the bottom piece of a compression fitting. I've seen these notches on some other fittings. I do love the Monsoons but I couldn't really see myslef spending a lot of money on the fittings. Most of the money was spent on the gpu(s) so I had to plan the other parts carefully.
> B-Negative, no need to update my post. Just sharing my incoming parts


How much were the XSPC compressions? Are they really that much cheaper. I personally thought monsoons had a very attractive price compared to some of the others.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Leak test....
> 
> Been solid so far,12 hrs and its time for teh OS to go on.


Is it alive yet? You are going to have to share some bench marks for us. Are you going to be using any dyes?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Random question ... and seems I can't make a poll on a post ... just a few answers will help me ...

Which has better looking blocks ... the 680 or the 7970

*:: EDIT ::*

*B_NEG* that is 1 very good looking beast you have ... nicely done


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Is it alive yet? You are going to have to share some bench marks for us. Are you going to be using any dyes?


Nearly there,just finishing the leaktest then put an OS on the 240Gb SSD. The 120 is for games.

Benches are the first thing im doing







...Who wants to play Super Pi?









No dye,just a biocide.
I may use Micks Metal effect but i dont know...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Is it alive yet? You are going to have to share some bench marks for us. Are you going to be using any dyes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly there,just finishing the leaktest then put an OS on the 240Gb SSD. The 120 is for games.
> 
> Benches are the first thing im doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...Who wants to play Super Pi?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No dye,just a biocide.
> I may use Micks Metal effect but i dont know...
Click to expand...

Nope, lol. How about AS SSD?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Nope, lol. How about AS SSD?


Go on then,Force GTs aint slow and i fancy my chances....single drive tho,no RAID madness.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Nope, lol. How about AS SSD?
> 
> 
> 
> Go on then,Force GTs aint slow and i fancy my chances....single drive tho,no RAID madness.
Click to expand...

I know, I have a 240GB one


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> How much were the XSPC compressions? Are they really that much cheaper. I personally thought monsoons had a very attractive price compared to some of the others.


At PPC's anyway, XSPC's are $4, Monsoon's are $7.

Monsoon kit of 6 = $35
Buying 6 XSPC's = $24

I use both. I prefer Monsoon's, but once again the last stage of WC building I did, I had to save money where I could and went with XSPC's. I hate turning them with my fingers (The compression part). Monsoon's are easier to work with IMO unless you are in a spot where it's hard to get that monsoon tool in.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> How much were the XSPC compressions? Are they really that much cheaper. I personally thought monsoons had a very attractive price compared to some of the others.


~$4 a piece. It really came down to how many compression fittings I needed in the end (16) so, xspc was going to be cheaper. It does use the traditional top compression but they did put a little more thought into the main body (bottom piece). They are considerably less hefty than the Alphacool I had a few months ago but I spent about 3/4 of the price with the xspc. I thought really hard and long to get the Monsoons, but the quantity I needed plus the price were the deal breakers for me. If you don't mind the cost or planning to use them, as well me the compression fittings a part of the build's look, they are a really attractive option.

Btw, if you're having troubles screwing on and off the cap of a compression fittings, I found a little dab of silicone grease on the tube makes it easier to install. I'm using colored tube so the grease is hardly visible (and I tend to use a very minimum amount).


----------



## tsm106

I love XSPC compressions. After getting tired of BP and Enzo compressions popping off I made the move. Swapped my main rig and 2ndary rigs. Nothing like ordering 30 compressions at one time lol.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ~$4 a piece. It really came down to how many compression fittings I needed in the end (16) so, xspc was going to be cheaper. It does use the traditional top compression but they did but a little more thought into the main body (bottom piece). They are considerably less hefty than the Alphacool I had a few months ago but I spent about 3/4 of the price with the xspc. I thought really hard and long to get the Monsoons, but the quantity I needed plus the price were the deal breakers for me. If you don't mind the cost or planning to use them, as well me the compression fittings a part of the build's look, they are a really attractive option.
> Btw, if you're having troubles screwing on and off the cap of a compression fittings, I found a little dab of silicone grease on the tube makes it easier to install. I'm using colored tube so the grease is hardly visible (and I tend to use a very minimum amount).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> At PPC's anyway, XSPC's are $4, Monsoon's are $7.
> Monsoon kit of 6 = $35
> Buying 6 XSPC's = $24
> I use both. I prefer Monsoon's, but once again the last stage of WC building I did, I had to save money where I could and went with XSPC's. I hate turning them with my fingers (The compression part). Monsoon's are easier to work with IMO unless you are in a spot where it's hard to get that monsoon tool in.


Thanks guys. I just might consider going with the xspc for my build.


----------



## hammerforged

iBUYPOWER Introduces Large "Triple" Radiator Liquid Cooling





http://www.techpowerup.com/172536/iBUYPOWER-Introduces-Large-quot-Triple-quot-Radiator-Liquid-Cooling.html

Hardware News Thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1307981/tpu-ibuypower-introduces-large-triple-radiator-liquid-cooling/0_20#post_18198834


----------



## Bouf0010

^^^^^ meh


----------



## tiborrr12

My new testing/validation station at EK. This is an In Win X-Frame chassis:










Consists of two loops for practical purposes:

1) CPU loop (which should never be disassembled):
EK-Supremacy - Nickel
EK-Coolstream RAD XTC 140
EK-DCP 2.2 pump
EK-RES X3 150 (new stuff)
Tygon Norprene A-60-G tubing

2) Testing loop (should be dismantled on weekly basis):
(block to be tested)
Laing D5 Vario pump
EK-D5 X-RES CSQ (new stuff)
EK prototype rad 360 (new stuff)
Tygon Norprene A-60-G tubing

Took me one day to build, drill and tap the aluminum to mount radiator and pump stands. This setup currently features upcoming EK-FC680 GTX Lightning and EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F water blocks (for ASUS Maximus V Formula).

Now back to engineering work, it's time to finalizing the EK-FB ASUS M5E design, customers are getting anxious









Regards,
Niko


----------



## simonfredette

thats really nice , good twist on a bench .


----------



## protzman

@ Ek Tiborr:

ram dominator for dominator platinum. is it still coming or did you guys give up on that?


----------



## tiborrr12

It's too damn hard to take apart Dominator Platinum memory. We will do something else.


----------



## protzman

not what i wanted to hear









ok tho


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> My new testing/validation station at EK. This is an In Win X-Frame chassis:


That black tygon tubing with silver fittings looks really cool in an industrial kind of way. I might try some if I get tired of white PrimoFlex.


----------



## Michalius

Don't think I've posted my build in here. Couple pics of 'Arrival' in my sig.









Going to be switching to duralene and the Monsoon rotary adapters with the compression fittings. Adapters are black with white discs, fittings are white. Still considering changing out the fans for white Spectre Pros or the new Noiseblockers.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Don't think I've posted my build in here. Couple pics of 'Arrival' in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to be switching to duralene and the Monsoon rotary adapters with the compression fittings. Adapters are black with white discs, fittings are white. Still considering changing out the fans for white Spectre Pros or the new Noiseblockers.


I like it a lot. Very clean and tidy. Nice work there mate


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Don't think I've posted my build in here. Couple pics of 'Arrival' in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to be switching to duralene and the Monsoon rotary adapters with the compression fittings. Adapters are black with white discs, fittings are white. Still considering changing out the fans for white Spectre Pros or the new Noiseblockers.


Looks great. So clean and balanced.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Don't think I've posted my build in here. Couple pics of 'Arrival' in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to be switching to duralene and the Monsoon rotary adapters with the compression fittings. Adapters are black with white discs, fittings are white. Still considering changing out the fans for white Spectre Pros or the new Noiseblockers.


That looks awesome!









whats the front rad? its huge!
does that xspc bay res come with a white face plate?


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Don't think I've posted my build in here. Couple pics of 'Arrival' in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to be switching to duralene and the Monsoon rotary adapters with the compression fittings. Adapters are black with white discs, fittings are white. Still considering changing out the fans for white Spectre Pros or the new Noiseblockers.


Wow! I really like that, great job man!

Also I couldn't help but notice that you're in Olympia. You should totally check out the Northwest Overclockers' Club in my sig, it's for OCNers who live in WA, OR, ID, and Alaska. We occasionally get LANs together, so it'd be great to have more members!


----------



## Michalius

Thanks everyone! This was really my first WC'ing project that was a total start to finish build, rather than a continuous ad hoc project.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> That looks awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whats the front rad? its huge!
> does that xspc bay res come with a white face plate?


The front rad is a Alphacool NexXos Monsta (yes, Monsta, not monster). It's 80mm thick, 130mm with both sets of fans. Quite the beast.

The bay res does not come with a faceplate. I tried a few things with an extra, namely masking. The XSPC logo is rasied and patterned, which makes just painting the whole thing a bit dull. I'm contemplating a few things when I rebuild in a week or two, but will probably just end up ordering a custom one from Dwood.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> My new testing/validation station at EK. This is an In Win X-Frame chassis:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consists of two loops for practical purposes:
> 
> 1) CPU loop (which should never be disassembled):
> EK-Supremacy - Nickel
> EK-Coolstream RAD XTC 140
> EK-DCP 2.2 pump
> EK-RES X3 150 (new stuff)
> Tygon Norprene A-60-G tubing
> 
> 2) Testing loop (should be dismantled on weekly basis):
> (block to be tested)
> Laing D5 Vario pump
> EK-D5 X-RES CSQ (new stuff)
> EK prototype rad 360 (new stuff)
> Tygon Norprene A-60-G tubing
> 
> Took me one day to build, drill and tap the aluminum to mount radiator and pump stands. This setup currently features upcoming EK-FC680 GTX Lightning and EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F water blocks (for ASUS Maximus V Formula).
> 
> Now back to engineering work, it's time to finalizing the EK-FB ASUS M5E design, customers are getting anxious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Niko


Wow that is really cool!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> How much were the XSPC compressions? Are they really that much cheaper. I personally thought monsoons had a very attractive price compared to some of the others.
> 
> 
> 
> ~$4 a piece. It really came down to how many compression fittings I needed in the end (16) so, xspc was going to be cheaper. It does use the traditional top compression but they did put a little more thought into the main body (bottom piece). They are considerably less hefty than the Alphacool I had a few months ago but I spent about 3/4 of the price with the xspc. I thought really hard and long to get the Monsoons, but the quantity I needed plus the price were the deal breakers for me. If you don't mind the cost or planning to use them, as well me the compression fittings a part of the build's look, they are a really attractive option.
> 
> Btw, if you're having troubles screwing on and off the cap of a compression fittings, I found a little dab of silicone grease on the tube makes it easier to install. I'm using colored tube so the grease is hardly visible (and I tend to use a very minimum amount).
Click to expand...

16 compressions? Damn dude I'm only running 8 plus 3 barbs. Granted I don't have my cards on water yet but that's 2 more. Why the extrees? Multiple Rads?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> My new testing/validation station at EK. This is an In Win X-Frame chassis:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consists of two loops for practical purposes:
> 
> 1) CPU loop (which should never be disassembled):
> EK-Supremacy - Nickel
> EK-Coolstream RAD XTC 140
> EK-DCP 2.2 pump
> EK-RES X3 150 (new stuff)
> Tygon Norprene A-60-G tubing
> 
> 2) Testing loop (should be dismantled on weekly basis):
> (block to be tested)
> Laing D5 Vario pump
> EK-D5 X-RES CSQ (new stuff)
> EK prototype rad 360 (new stuff)
> Tygon Norprene A-60-G tubing
> 
> Took me one day to build, drill and tap the aluminum to mount radiator and pump stands. This setup currently features upcoming EK-FC680 GTX Lightning and EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F water blocks (for ASUS Maximus V Formula).
> 
> Now back to engineering work, it's time to finalizing the EK-FB ASUS M5E design, customers are getting anxious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Niko


Not intended as a Troll, but *maybe* now you can compare Supremacy to HF Supreme v1 and v2? Makes sense with that awesome setup.









Of course the other components(Rad, Pump/Res, Fans) would have to be the same for both setups to get a true reading..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Don't think I've posted my build in here. Couple pics of 'Arrival' in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to be switching to duralene and the Monsoon rotary adapters with the compression fittings. Adapters are black with white discs, fittings are white. Still considering changing out the fans for white Spectre Pros or the new Noiseblockers.
> 
> 
> 
> I like it a lot. Very clean and tidy. Nice work there mate
Click to expand...

I'll just jump onto werms hard work (Thanks wermad







) and say...










~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 16 compressions? Damn dude I'm only running 8 plus 3 barbs. Granted I don't have my cards on water yet but that's 2 more. Why the extrees? Multiple Rads?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not intended as a Troll, but *maybe* now you can compare Supremacy to HF Supreme v1 and v2? Makes sense with that awesome setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course the other components(Rad, Pump/Res, Fans) would have to be the same for both setups to get a true reading..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just jump onto werms hard work (Thanks wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and say...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was gonna do tube and compression fittings between both gpu(s) but had already ordered the extra fittings (four more) and couldn't modify my order. I'm going with two Phobya sli links instead. The extra fittings will come in handy when I plumb the drain line and if I decide to run a separate pump res setup. I'm going to run three 360s rads, a couple of gpu blocks, and the cpu block. Not sure if I should do a log


----------



## Michalius

@EK_Tiborrr

That setup is fantastic. The chassis looks quite nice, I keep going back to look at it in more detail.

I've been wanting to move to Slovenia for years. Maybe between EK and LD Cooling I can find a job. Ljubljanski Dvor is worth the trip itself. And the Kremsnita. And Triglav. That's it, buying a plane ticket.


----------



## sunset1

@EK_Tiborrr
Sunset1 is looking at the photo totally confused while he tries to wrap his mind around the components for the first time.
Man I actually had to look at the computer for a while to figure out what was going on in that X frame chassis.
Now my only question is .. um what does the Tie Fighter chassis look like.. :>
For the first time in a lot of years I was looking at a computer and was completely baffled. Awesome!
This has got to be one of the best threads i have read ever.
Sunset1


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So,leak testing over and the OS install begins...

My house this morning was a bit like this...


----------



## nvidia3

i love Water Cooling !!!!!!!!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Don't think I've posted my build in here. Couple pics of 'Arrival' in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to be switching to duralene and the Monsoon rotary adapters with the compression fittings. Adapters are black with white discs, fittings are white. Still considering changing out the fans for white Spectre Pros or the new Noiseblockers.


I love it







Color scheme looks good, and the 240 in the front is boss!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,leak testing over and the OS install begins...
> My house this morning was a bit like this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Bouf0010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidia3*
> 
> i love Water Cooling !!!!!!!!


why are you air cooling then lol


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Don't think I've posted my build in here. Couple pics of 'Arrival' in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to be switching to duralene and the Monsoon rotary adapters with the compression fittings. Adapters are black with white discs, fittings are white. Still considering changing out the fans for white Spectre Pros or the new Noiseblockers.


Nice job! Looks really good with the pastel green. The white case makes the Green really pop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

XSPC up their game....


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> XSPC up their game....


I can't tell from the picture is that a white block or a really shiny block?


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I can't tell from the picture is that a white block or a really shiny block?


I place my bets on shiny.

EDIT: Yup, shiny:


----------



## NewHighScore

The actual block looks shiny but what about the other part?


----------



## Jorvin

Hi want to joine your nice club, here is some pictures of my rig, soon to be history


----------



## Steely187

Some pics of my rig, yep another 800D ..... My first WC rig, has gone few a number changes over the months but pretty happy with how it is now.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steely187*
> 
> Some pics of my rig, yep another 800D ..... My first WC rig, has gone few a number changes over the months but pretty happy with how it is now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice rig







but why all 90 degree fittings on the lower rad, little bit restrictive if you ask me


----------



## KaRLiToS

Its the most expensive 120mm Radiators I have seen ( so much fittings around it)

Nice 800D







(800D + Red/Black = 10/10)

About your drain Line: Would it be a pain to open it since you have no valve, as soon as you will unscrew it, water will spill in your case, no?


----------



## Steely187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Nice rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but why all 90 degree fittings on the lower rad, little bit restrictive if you ask me


The loop has two pumps "Res1 > Pump1 > 140Rad > 120Rad > CPU > Res2 > Pump 2 > 3xGPU > 360Rad > Res1" so the flow is fine. Went that why to make the thing look nice and chunky. Defiantly not the cheapest way to do it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Its the most expensive 120mm Radiators I have seen ( so much fittings around it)
> Nice 800D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About your drain Line: Would it be a pain to open it since you have no valve, as soon as you will unscrew it, water will spill in your case, no?


It rotates out over the edge of the case, so i just unscrew it with a container below.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steely187*
> 
> The loop has two pumps "Res1 > Pump1 > 140Rad > 120Rad > CPU > Res2 > Pump 2 > 3xGPU > 360Rad > Res1" so the flow is fine. Went that why to make the thing look nice and chunky. Defiantly not the cheapest way to do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It rotates out over the edge of the case, so i just unscrew it with a container below.


what wouldn't you do for some extra bling


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> The actual block looks shiny but what about the other part?


It is an all metal chrome block.
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel-chrome/


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steely187*
> 
> The loop has two pumps "Res1 > Pump1 > 140Rad > 120Rad > CPU > Res2 > Pump 2 > 3xGPU > 360Rad > Res1" so the flow is fine. Went that why to make the thing look nice and chunky. Defiantly not the cheapest way to do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It rotates out over the edge of the case, so i just unscrew it with a container below.


Such a great job... Although, that setup does make me feel somewhat inadequate.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Michalius

Those fans. Dear lord. Hoping to put those on my NexXxos rads as well.


----------



## wermad

^^^That Monsta









More parts came in today for me


----------



## ugotd8

^ Wow, what fans are those ?!?!?!


----------



## Willi

noiseblocker fans? Those are BEAUTIFUL!


----------



## NewHighScore

Those are very interesting fans. Noiseblockers?


----------



## Michalius

Yeah, the new Noiseblocker eloops.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1307016/various-noiseblocker-nb-eloop-bionic-loop-propeller-fan-reviews


----------



## NewHighScore

Oh my. I just might have to hold off on my fan purchase for these badboys.


----------



## Roikyou

Just started leak testing yesterday with RX360, RX240, cpu block, 680 gpu x 2 with xspc dual bay with 2x Swiftech mcp35x. One of the Swiftech pumps were loose and leaking, one compression fitting on the back of the dual bay was leaking, not a great experience so far, tightened things up, seems like no leaks but still paranoid....

After everything was running, was like a very quiet fish tank (listening to the two pumps running)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

They making those NB's in 140mm???? Please!!!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> They making those NB's in 140mm???? Please!!!


Yes they are in development.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Yes they are in development.


Oh dear.


----------



## Fonne

Next step is a smaller one, a some cobber


----------



## Jorvin

planing on doing a push pull rad on my next build, want phobya as push for the lock but what would happen if you putt Gentle Typhoons on the pull side? would i gett any performance increace? damage the fans?


----------



## simonfredette

no damage to the fans , I dont think the difference is enough for that but dont expect a higher performance than your weakest fan.. also you might get vibration and noise . Its generally not a good idea to use different fans unless they are very close in stats


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^That Monsta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More parts came in today for me


And no pictures?


----------



## Chriscrosstifer

Here is my new build... First water cooled computer I have built! just waiting on the Asus Maximus V Extreme WB from EKWB's to finish.





EK Dominator x4 nickel/plexi RAM WB
EK Supreme LTX - EN nickel/plexi CPU WB
EK-LGA115x TRUE Backplate
EK-FC 680 GTX DCII nickel/acetal GPU WB
EK-PSC 12mm fittings

2 Swiftech MCP355 pumps
2 XS-PC 240mm slim line radiators
XS-PC Dual Bay Dual reservoir


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> And no pictures?


I'll get some up tonight


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Am i the only guy that thinks those NB fans look crap?

They could perform really well but DAMN they ugly.....


----------



## wermad

Corsair looks smexxy


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Corsair looks smexxy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Especially in groups of 40 :/


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Corsair looks smexxy


Those totally do look sexy. I wish they made the SP version in 140mm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Especially in groups of 40 :/


----------



## Chriscrosstifer

I now know what fans I am putting on my radiators haha... Thanks again wermad


----------



## hammerforged

Noiseblocker eloop's back in stock

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16919/fan-1049/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-4_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_2400_RPM_-_3429_dBA_Hot_Item.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Corsair looks smexxy


I know,thats why i have 15 one them.

They are so quiet too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chriscrosstifer*
> 
> I now know what fans I am putting on my radiators haha... Thanks again wermad




They look good on rads.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know,thats why i have 15 one them.
> They are so quiet too.
> 
> They look good on rads.....


Blades look different on yours?







Very reminiscent of the Yates.

edit: nm, you have the "high static" editions


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> no damage to the fans , I dont think the difference is enough for that but dont expect a higher performance than your weakest fan.. also you might get vibration and noise . Its generally not a good idea to use different fans unless they are very close in stats


ok thanks for the help then its phobya all the way


----------



## derickwm

It warms my heart to see wermad coming back to water cooling


----------



## jagz

Trying to figure which 7950 3GB PCB's are reference and non.

I'd like to use the Koolance VID-AR797

and get a pair of 7950's w/ a black PCB that can use that GPU block.

If there is a non-ref waterblock for the XFX Double D That'd work too.

Neighbor wants to build a nasty rig.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It warms my heart to see wermad coming back to water cooling











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Trying to figure which 7950 3GB PCB's are reference and non.
> I'd like to use the Koolance VID-AR797
> and get a pair of 7950's w/ a black PCB that can use that GPU block.
> If there is a non-ref waterblock for the XFX Double D That'd work too.
> Neighbor wants to build a nasty rig.


http://coolingconfigurator.com/

Be careful, as XFX are known to make subtle changes even to the reference design and it may make a block non-compatible.


----------



## Chriscrosstifer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It warms my heart to see wermad coming back to water cooling


Seems like I joined at a good time then







wermad has been a good helper for me


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It warms my heart to see wermad coming back to water cooling


Yup. I knew he wouldn't be able to stay away though. That's like me giving up cheesecake. Seems like a good idea at the time but the moment I see them at a Restaurant I know that's not gonna happen.









In all seriousness though, once you water cool it's impossible to stay away. The temps coupled with the silence are just too much Win compared to Air Cooling. Hell I love being about to see my Board. The best Air Coolers are nice an all but their expense and size make them expendable imho.







lol

An yeah I take up more case real estate with my loop, but it's spread out not located in one specific location putting unnecessary weight on the socket.









~Ceadder


----------



## ugotd8

+1

Just folded for 48 hours straight for the FAT on a 3930K @ 4.9GHz with 1.39V, never broke 72 on a core with the second to last performing block on stren's recent waterblock test.

It is addictive tho, just spent more than I want to admit and got an external rad, new CPU waterblock and a GTX570 with a block. Should be worth at least 1-2C.









Is there such a thing as a re-build log ?


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> +1
> Just folded for 48 hours straight for the FAT on a 3930K @ 4.9GHz with 1.39V, never broke 72 on a core with the second to last performing block on stren's recent waterblock test.
> It is addictive tho, just spent more than I want to admit and got an external rad, new CPU waterblock and a GTX570 with a block. Should be worth at least 1-2C.


What block did you get? You should get better than 1-2c though hehe.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> What block did you get? You should get better than 1-2c though hehe.


Tried to get the MIPS IceForce but sold out everywhere, ended up with the XP3. I'm a lemming.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Tried to get the MIPS IceForce but sold out everywhere, ended up with the XP3. I'm a lemming.


I'm looking at that nexxos block. The MIPS isn't stellar but it looks awesome. Krull got nothing on you.


----------



## wermad

Usps miss routed my 2nd gpu so I'm hoping it arrives tomorrow











Got a few bits from ppcs.com and missing my fans and ram from amazon.

edit: 35x on the top left side


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Usps miss routed my 2nd gpu so I'm hoping it arrives tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a few bits from ppcs.com and missing my fans and ram from amazon.
> edit: 35x on the top left side


Nice.

Me too!!!











Waiting on a nova now...


----------



## derickwm

UPS left a couple packages on my door









3 radiators, sponsored by AquaTuning and a side panel for my TJ07 in prep for reverse ATX mod


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> UPS left a couple packages on my door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 radiators, sponsored by AquaTuning and a side panel for my TJ07 in prep for reverse ATX mod


nice! Which makes did they send?


----------



## derickwm

1x Alphacool XT45 480mm
2x Alphacool ST30 480mm










I've always been a big fan of the speediness of AquaTuning, considering the parts come from Germany! I think I emailed them less than a week ago and here they are. Definitely a customer for life.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1x Alphacool XT45 480mm
> 2x Alphacool ST30 480mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always been a big fan of the speediness of AquaTuning, considering the parts come from Germany! I think I emailed them less than a week ago and here they are. Definitely a customer for life.


Awesome


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1x Alphacool XT45 480mm
> 2x Alphacool ST30 480mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always been a big fan of the speediness of AquaTuning, considering the parts come from Germany! I think I emailed them less than a week ago and here they are. Definitely a customer for life.


Wish I had more room in the 932 for 480s'. Can't wait to see your setup D.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Woot, woot. Another post carrier stopped by and delivered my 2nd gtx 590


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1x Alphacool XT45 480mm
> 2x Alphacool ST30 480mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always been a big fan of the speediness of AquaTuning, considering the parts come from Germany! I think I emailed them less than a week ago and here they are. Definitely a customer for life.


Yes they are so fast. I ordered a package on Tuesday and got it today. All the way from Germany to Edmonton, Alberta, Canada! I love Aquatuning. Also love how the custom fees are included in shipping.

How does so many people get free parts I don't understand.


----------



## derickwm

Geezes wermad...









To get free parts... Be a reviewer or a ridiculously spammed build log


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Geezes wermad...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get free parts... Be a reviewer or a ridiculously spammed build log


Thought about it but I'm not really one for that. I buys whats I's wants







Not what someone says I have to









Need to make a quick trip to Frys and pick up some cheap ram to fire up my rig. Amazon ships slow as molasses sometimes


----------



## derickwm

Newhighscore was curious









I've had pretty free reign so far though, of course it does add expectations for the build and the need to write reviews/show off the sponsored products. Takes time but it's worth it to me


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Newhighscore was curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had pretty free reign so far though, of course it does add expectations for the build and the need to write reviews/show off the sponsored products. Takes time but it's worth it to me


ah, i see









I'm thinking you get to keep all your stuff after the project?


----------



## derickwm

As far as I'm aware...









The downside is I don't get to partake in the selling of rig parts when I'm ready to move on like we so commonly do


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup. I knew he wouldn't be able to stay away though. That's like me giving up cheesecake. Seems like a good idea at the time but the moment I see them at a Restaurant I know that's not gonna happen. :


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As far as I'm aware...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The downside is I don't get to partake in the selling of rig parts when I'm ready to move on like we so commonly do


I'll pay you $100 shipping for the next 480 Rad you wish to get rid of.









~Ceadder


----------



## ugotd8

FWIW, I just saw some GTX 480s in the forsale section, I think like $80 or so.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> FWIW, I just saw some GTX 480s in the forsale section, I think like $80 or so.


Monsta 480 ftw









That's a nice price for a used gtx 480. I paid ~$100 for a used SR1 480. BI rads are pretty pricey, so finding a sweet deal on a used is a must for those on a budget







It'll be some time before the Alphacools are sold used.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> FWIW, I just saw some GTX 480s in the forsale section, I think like $80 or so.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Monsta 480 ftw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a nice price for a used gtx 480. I paid ~$100 for a used SR1 480. BI rads are pretty pricey, so finding a sweet deal on a used is a must for those on a budget
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll be some time before the Alphacools are sold used.


If I was deaf, I'd be all over it with some Deltas like white on rice.


----------



## derickwm

The appeal to be deaf just got a lot more...appealing









Edit... Some substantial progress. More pics to come once I have it running. Please excuse the crappy cell pic, not my style but only choice until I have a rig setup


----------



## wermad

Is that tube clouded out or silver color?


----------



## derickwm

Plasticizer...









That's tubing before loop was broken down and the clear is new tubing of the same kind. I love the quality and flexibility of the danger den/monsoon tubing but it got like that after like a week or so.


----------



## wermad

I can't trust clear tube anymore as it might just plasticize, lame


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Plasticizer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's tubing before loop was broken down and the clear is new tubing of the same kind. I love the quality and flexibility of the danger den/monsoon tubing but it got like that after like a week or so.


Time to switch to durelene


----------



## nyk20z3

Damn even the danger den tubing causes plasticizer ?

I thought it was mostly a Primochill thing i just removed all my Primochill UV green tubing full of plasticzer and it pushed a bunch of it in to my Swifttech bay res as well.


----------



## derickwm

Won't be switching tubing until I know for sure if I'm doing hard or soft tubing. Monsoon sponsored me 20ft of their tubing so I may as well use it until I've made a decision. I'll definitely be showing Gene that photo though


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quick question people,

What block does the:
Swiftech Apogee Drive II with Pump - for Socket 2011 use?

Is there any other US store besides Sidewinder that deliver to Australia? Shipping on a pump is on $25, it cost nearly that from my own country


----------



## simonfredette

colour tubing seems to be almost the only way around that these days weve gone through almost every brand and it happens all the time , maybe they need to change the recipe ,we cant be the only ones complaining about it , I mean you specialize in a certain product and you cant see it when your product has a pretty obvious flaw , even when "used as directed " it would be something else if we were deliberately using a chemical that isnt approved or something but now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Time to switch to Copper


Fixed.


----------



## simonfredette

simple solution , expensive and more complex but the solution ..


----------



## derickwm

If the non-ref cards that i have coming somehow allow me to throw on some universal blocks I'll be going polished hard copper for sure. Thinnest universal block that is still quality...go!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> colour tubing seems to be almost the only way around that these days weve gone through almost every brand and it happens all the time , maybe they need to change the recipe ,we cant be the only ones complaining about it , I mean you specialize in a certain product and you cant see it when your product has a pretty obvious flaw , even when "used as directed " it would be something else if we were deliberately using a chemical that isnt approved or something but now


Wrong? Coolant has never been more popular than it is right now. Especially with all the stuff Mayhems is pouring out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Time to switch to Copper
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed.
Click to expand...

Hahaha!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If the non-ref cards that i have coming somehow allow me to throw on some universal blocks I'll be going polished hard copper for sure. Thinnest universal block that is still qualify...go!


If you find copper for a good price in the US let me know.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If the non-ref cards that i have coming somehow allow me to throw on some universal blocks I'll be going polished hard copper for sure. Thinnest universal block that is still quality...go!


Have look at Liquid Extasy...they do a good range of non ref blocks,specifically their narrow line stuff,simple looking but all the better for it.


----------



## derickwm

Looks dont really matter, the blocks will be hidden anyway









I'll have a look though, cheers.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Plasticizer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's tubing before loop was broken down and the clear is new tubing of the same kind. I love the quality and flexibility of the danger den/monsoon tubing but it got like that after like a week or so.


Leave a comment about it on their FB page. That should start the ball rolling on the dialogue. They're giving PC customers who contact them a bottle of an additive that after running it for 4 days is sposed to clean up the tubing. I think that it's a bad reaction to Biocides since PrimoChill LRT is supposed to be infused with it's own formula. I'm not saying that is the problem but I've seen quite a few people have issues and it looks like they're all using something beyond what the compound the tubing contains. I'm not running any Biocides in my loop due to low level natural light source and the tubing being opaque. Only my Res is clear.

Well anyway there have been a few people that have gotten the additive. You'll find them in the Plasticizer thread if you need any sort of feedback regarding the additive.









~Ceadder


----------



## NostraD

Cead, what r u doing up anyway? Go to bed!


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Wrong? Coolant has never been more popular than it is right now. Especially with all the stuff Mayhems is pouring out.
> Hahaha!
> If you find copper for a good price in the US let me know.


wasnt referring as to what people were doing , I know coolant is really in , I was saying that it seems these days that the only way around the plasticizer issues is colored tubing , we have linked the issue to just about every brand of clear tubing except maybe duralyne ..


----------



## Fonne

- Deleted -


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Think that the blocks from Angel OD (Casemodder on Bit-Tech) should be shared ...


One word...WOW!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Fonne,I keep reminding you,don't post pics of rigs that are not yours,this is a rule of the thread and is in the first post of this thread.
If AngelOD wants to post here,that's cool,but constant pics from shops and other rig builders without permission is not.


----------



## simonfredette

if anything link them , otherwise we end up seeing the same ones over and over just because they are cool looking.. like when the L3P desk was made , all we could see on ocn for a week!


----------



## kkorky

Ok have a look at this guys work, ive been following him for a while and all it seems to do, is give me an inferiority complex with regards to my WC building skills-he's sometimes OTT, but i guess that's a decision that you'll have to make on your own

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=TEAI0ohy4Ko (the real fun starts after he mounts the GPU cooling block.)

BTW, more info on the Crystal links he is talking about here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1230466/how-do-bitspower-crystal-links-work

Enjoy


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Time to switch to copper


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fixed.


You are lucky to have those tubing. At least, your mind will be free from the damm plasticizers.


----------



## snapsimo

So are you saying that if we go coloured tubing, we wont have the plastisizer problem?
I thought it was all of them?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapsimo*
> 
> So are you saying that if we go coloured tubing, we wont have the plastisizer problem?
> I thought it was all of them?


Go to the PWP thread mate-all will be revealed :http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/1420 it's the last page, work your way back


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapsimo*
> 
> So are you saying that if we go coloured tubing, we wont have the plastisizer problem?
> I thought it was all of them?


you might have the problem but you wont see it , out of sight out of mind you know .. until its in your res and blocks .. and your rad !


----------



## mironccr345

Finally convinced my buddy to let me upgrade his loop.

His rig since January.


Just bought these yesterday.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Ok have a look at this guys work, ive been following him for a while and all it seems to do, is give me an inferiority complex with regards to my WC building skills-he's sometimes OTT, but i guess that's a decision that you'll have to make on your own
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=TEAI0ohy4Ko


Watched the entire video. I guess that's one more person that dislikes those stupid EK GPU Blocks (and I'm not talking about the ugly CSQ design, that's a whole different matter). I really can't see why they'd make such a decision.

@EK tiborr (not sure if I go that right):
Could you please enlighten us on that matter ?
I don't care who and why decided the CSQ design was pretty, some people probably like it and with looks it's pretty random, people could either love or hate it. My problem with the new blocks (beyond the looks) is the inlet/outlet's positions.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Participated in my first Foldathon this past week! Also got into the Royal Navy but with my non-W/C GTX 580! Lot's of fun had by all!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Finally convinced my buddy to let me upgrade his loop.
> His rig since January.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just bought these yesterday.


Looks great as is, so really excited to see the upgrade!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Participated in my first Foldathon this past week! Also got into the Royal Navy but with my non-W/C GTX 580! Lot's of fun had by all!


Congrats...now get a block on it! lol


----------



## Maximillian-E

Kuhler 620 is my first leap into water cooling, and it has not let me down yet! I cant wait to plug my spare into my GTX 480

Denver-Ambient in my room 12C


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximillian-E*
> 
> Kuhler 620 is my first leap into water cooling, and it has not let me down yet! I cant wait to plug my spare into my GTX 480
> 
> Denver-Ambient in my room 12C


I would like to have a 12'C ambient. Unfortunately, I live with my girlfriend. Even when the ambient is 26'C, she is always COLD.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So one of my 460's is finally dying it seems. Thinking about grabbing a 670 to replace my old 460 SLi config. What waterblock(s) do you guys recommend for the 670?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Whatever you like the look of best. Too low power a card to really worry about cooling performance, especially with locked voltage. Any block will cool it great!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Participated in my first Foldathon this past week! Also got into the Royal Navy but with my non-W/C GTX 580! Lot's of fun had by all!


Congrats! Great to have you on board!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> BTW, more info on the Crystal links he is talking about here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1230466/how-do-bitspower-crystal-links-work
> Enjoy


Hey, I just ordered some similar stuff off Amazon yesterday. I was going to try and incorporate it into my next WC project. I am hoping I can find a way to seal it well. It'll be a fun experiment, hopefully!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OMJ4YW/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00

Edit: I read somewhere (couldn't readily find the article again) that this stuff bends pretty easily when heat is applied. Thought it might be cool to see if I could get a 45 or even a 90 degree bend out of it rather than using angled fittings.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I used a couple of BP Crystal links to connect my mobo blocks to my CPU block. Works pretty good if you can get the heights and spacing correct...


----------



## Fonne

Frozencpu got the DT Sniper now ...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17227/ex-blc-1233/DT_Sniper_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_Rev_2_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_Black_Acetal.html

But also the *Delta 120mm x 38mm High-Speed PWM Fan*

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17228/fan-1058/Delta_120mm_x_38mm_High-Speed_PWM_Fan_-_2528_CFM_TFC1212DE-PWM.html

Maximum Air Flow: *252.8 CFM* (Cubic feet per minute)
Maximum Air Pressure: *35.88 mmH2O*

Talk about pressure


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Frozencpu got the DT Sniper now ...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17227/ex-blc-1233/DT_Sniper_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_Rev_2_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_Black_Acetal.html
> But also the *Delta 120mm x 38mm High-Speed PWM Fan*
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17228/fan-1058/Delta_120mm_x_38mm_High-Speed_PWM_Fan_-_2528_CFM_TFC1212DE-PWM.html
> Maximum Air Flow: *252.8 CFM* (Cubic feet per minute)
> Maximum Air Pressure: *35.88 mmH2O*
> Talk about pressure


yeah, and @ 5500RPM. just in case i want my pc to fly across the room XD


----------



## DAWOODAKRAM

want to join please. thanks


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1x Alphacool XT45 480mm
> 2x Alphacool ST30 480mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always been a big fan of the speediness of AquaTuning, considering the parts come from Germany! I think I emailed them less than a week ago and here they are. Definitely a customer for life.
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I had more room in the 932 for 480s'. Can't wait to see your setup D.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I felt the same way with my 932. It's been a great case, but time to move on. That's why I finally gave in and bought a TJ07, which I've wanted for a long time.
By the way, I'll be ordering an Alphacool 480 Monsta for the "lower deck" next week.
Not that I'm trying to convince you to get a TJ07, or anything like that


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1x Alphacool XT45 480mm
> 2x Alphacool ST30 480mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always been a big fan of the speediness of AquaTuning, considering the parts come from Germany! I think I emailed them less than a week ago and here they are. Definitely a customer for life.
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I had more room in the 932 for 480s'. Can't wait to see your setup D.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I felt the same way with my 932. It's been a great case, but time to move on. That's why I finally gave in and bought a TJ07, which I've wanted for a long time.
> By the way, I'll be ordering an Alphacool 480 Monsta for the "lower deck" next week.
> Not that I'm trying to convince you to get a TJ07, or anything like that
Click to expand...

Meh, I'm building my own monster. Just on the installment plan. 2-3 of these will cost about the same as a TJ07 and I'll have lots more room.







lol

I wanted a TJ Case before I got this. It was either that or the Cosmos cause I like the cleanliness of them. But the prices were way out of my range and my bro got the Newegg 932 with the all LED package for a song. Not a fan of blue so I went with the one Red LED fan for a bit more. It's a solid case. I'm down to modding the doors, next bit is widening the chassis x1 and possibly flipping the tray to be right hand oriented. But it takes money an I have precious little of it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hanoverfist

Finishing up The Window Mod.... Serious Dust Magnet..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, I'm building my own monster. Just on the installment plan. 2-3 of these will cost about the same as a TJ07 and I'll have lots more room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> I wanted a TJ Case before I got this. It was either that or the Cosmos cause I like the cleanliness of them. But the prices were way out of my range and my bro got the Newegg 932 with the all LED package for a song. Not a fan of blue so I went with the one Red LED fan for a bit more. It's a solid case. I'm down to modding the doors, next bit is widening the chassis x1 and possibly flipping the tray to be right hand oriented. But it takes money an I have precious little of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


DeathStar still under construction?

Would have loved to afford two Monsta 420s and a 360.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, I'm building my own monster. Just on the installment plan. 2-3 of these will cost about the same as a TJ07 and I'll have lots more room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> I wanted a TJ Case before I got this. It was either that or the Cosmos cause I like the cleanliness of them. But the prices were way out of my range and my bro got the Newegg 932 with the all LED package for a song. Not a fan of blue so I went with the one Red LED fan for a bit more. It's a solid case. I'm down to modding the doors, next bit is widening the chassis x1 and possibly flipping the tray to be right hand oriented. But it takes money an I have precious little of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DeathStar still under construction?
> 
> Would have loved to afford two Monsta 420s and a 360.
Click to expand...

Yep she's still under destruction.



Got the interior of the right door marked out ready for cutting, just need to get my Plexi to fit the space and have it etched before jumping in with both feet. I'm considering using another right side door and doing the same with it for the Left side since I don't need fans or a fan grill there now.









Then when I can better afford it I'll get a used Chassis and figure out which side it's getting attached to.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> yeah, and @ 5500RPM. just in case i want my pc to fly across the room XD


Would still love to see some Push/Pull result


----------



## Alatar

Was testing my D90 for capturing video because I hadn't tried it before and decided that I might as well post the craptastic vid here:






no auto focus is fun


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Was testing my D90 for capturing video because I hadn't tried it before and decided that I might as well post the craptastic vid here:
> 
> 
> 
> no auto focus is fun


Video on the D90 is horrible... I gave up trying to use it on mine.


----------



## NewHighScore

Got my blocks in the mail yesterday


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, I'm building my own monster. Just on the installment plan. 2-3 of these will cost about the same as a TJ07 and I'll have lots more room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> I wanted a TJ Case before I got this. It was either that or the Cosmos cause I like the cleanliness of them. But the prices were way out of my range and my bro got the Newegg 932 with the all LED package for a song. Not a fan of blue so I went with the one Red LED fan for a bit more. It's a solid case. I'm down to modding the doors, next bit is widening the chassis x1 and possibly flipping the tray to be right hand oriented. But it takes money an I have precious little of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Wow!
The ultimate 932.








I'll kindly refrain from suggesting a TJ to you now
You've got some interesting plans there, I'm looking forward to seeing this project.

I know what you're saying about the cost of a TJ07, I got a very good deal on mine, no way could I pay the original price for one.
The 932 project won't be cheap either, and certainly a lot of work, but it will be well worth it.


----------



## jagz

Here's to fixing my apparent flow problems w/ my external radiator stand once and for all.



+ 2 MCP350's, w/ a MCP655 already there.. Should be good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, I'm building my own monster. Just on the installment plan. 2-3 of these will cost about the same as a TJ07 and I'll have lots more room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> I wanted a TJ Case before I got this. It was either that or the Cosmos cause I like the cleanliness of them. But the prices were way out of my range and my bro got the Newegg 932 with the all LED package for a song. Not a fan of blue so I went with the one Red LED fan for a bit more. It's a solid case. I'm down to modding the doors, next bit is widening the chassis x1 and possibly flipping the tray to be right hand oriented. But it takes money an I have precious little of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow!
> The ultimate 932.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll kindly refrain from suggesting a TJ to you now
> You've got some interesting plans there, I'm looking forward to seeing this project.
> 
> I know what you're saying about the cost of a TJ07, I got a very good deal on mine, no way could I pay the original price for one.
> The 932 project won't be cheap either, and certainly a lot of work, but it will be well worth it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I been wanting to do this mod for awhile now. But I wanted to get my Water Cooling out of the way first so whatever system ended up in the finished build would be future proofed for cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Here's to fixing my apparent flow problems w/ my external radiator stand once and for all.
> 
> + 2 MCP350's, w/ a MCP655 already there.. Should be good.


That's sex right there!!!


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Frozencpu got the DT Sniper now ...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17227/ex-blc-1233/DT_Sniper_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_Rev_2_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_Black_Acetal.html
> But also the *Delta 120mm x 38mm High-Speed PWM Fan*
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17228/fan-1058/Delta_120mm_x_38mm_High-Speed_PWM_Fan_-_2528_CFM_TFC1212DE-PWM.html
> Maximum Air Flow: *252.8 CFM* (Cubic feet per minute)
> Maximum Air Pressure: *35.88 mmH2O*
> Talk about pressure


Its suppose to be the best cpu block correct ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Frozencpu got the DT Sniper now ...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17227/ex-blc-1233/DT_Sniper_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_Rev_2_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_Black_Acetal.html
> But also the *Delta 120mm x 38mm High-Speed PWM Fan*
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17228/fan-1058/Delta_120mm_x_38mm_High-Speed_PWM_Fan_-_2528_CFM_TFC1212DE-PWM.html
> Maximum Air Flow: *252.8 CFM* (Cubic feet per minute)
> Maximum Air Pressure: *35.88 mmH2O*
> Talk about pressure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its suppose to be the best cpu block correct ?
Click to expand...

Mmmm no probably isn't. Might be one of the best looking but it's doubtful(imho) that it's the best.









Who the hell wants to spend $33 before FPUs' Fail Shipping Prices for a fan? You're lookin at almost $50 just for one fan. That thing better be so damned good I have to worry about my CPU freezing from the cold.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Its suppose to be the best cpu block correct ?


You can see how the sniper performs in this roundup .. http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/10#post_17813018


----------



## derickwm

Tons more pics in my log - link in sig. Unfortunately I ended the night with a busted vrm and I didn't even get to play with my new toys


----------



## jellis142

Asus Mars







Such a pretty card.

Oh, and so is the rest of the build.


----------



## Ceadderman

No way! I sad Derry, need make me happy with running system.









Love the coolant btw that looks awesome for a dye job.










~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

Just saw that Watercool has info about the HTSF2 on their page now (Know that the pictures has been posted, but did not see any info)

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/24011



Quote:


> .....
> 
> Triple parallel circuits ensure a very low flow resistance. The pipes were running around. Thus the HTSF2 is also suitable for high operating pressures. The design is optimized for low speed fans.
> 
> In the production of HTSF2 only high quality raw materials are used. The rows of tubes are made of pure electrolytic copper, the slats of high quality aluminum. For blade was intentionally left a coating. This improves the efficiency of the radiator. When corpus ensures a robust powder coated for maximum protection against external influences. The logo is applied using laser engraving. Due to an optimized production of the disk set only minimum Lotrückstände remain in the radiator.
> ...............


----------



## protzman

Omg that pic of 3 rads is sooo sweet


----------



## Ceadderman

I like the look of that 120 but after reading the measurements in German(Englais es verboden







) in that review,I can't pull the trigger on something like that. They say that it's slim. I don't know what they consider slim but 50mm is NOT slim. Furthest thing from it. Push Pull on that thing would make it 100mm thick. Hell I'm running GT Stealth 360 and that is 29mm thick add my fan thickness and 7mm Decoupler Shrouds, they're slightly thicker than that Radiator. No thans. As nice as it is, it's too thick for people who want a stealthy loop. I'm sure it's an excellent performer, just not up to my requirements.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Quick question:

Is there a huge difference in performance between:



and this:



I want to use an EK HF Supreme for its *aesthetic* value, but the later version is nearly impossible to get, unless you pay 144 eu to a certain store in Dubai (good store actually). But i have found somewhere that has a few pieces of the older block.

So im wondering if the earlier version is that different in performance (btw, im using an Acetal Raystorm atm)

(Please dont quote stats-i could google those myself







im looking for RL feedback /experience )


----------



## simonfredette

I run push pull on RX rads , 360 and 240 in A switch 810 and its not so bad , I think certain mobos have issues where the 8pin will contact the lower fans but I didnt have a problem and the results with a thick rad ,low fpi and push pull is pretty considerable .


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quick question:
> Is there a huge difference in performance between:
> 
> and this:
> 
> I want to use an EK HF Supreme for its *aesthetic* value, but the later version is nearly impossible to get, unless you pay 144 eu to a certain store in Dubai (good store actually).
> So im wondering if the earlier version is that different in performance (im using an Acetal Raystorm atm)


I'm going to guess that "good store in Dubai" is Uber. I've dealt with them before extensively, and I'm kinda on the fence about whether or not they're actually good.

Also you're raystorm is a better block than the supreme HF, why change?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quick question:
> Is there a huge difference in performance between:
> 
> and this:
> 
> I want to use an EK HF Supreme for its *aesthetic* value, but the later version is nearly impossible to get, unless you pay 144 eu to a certain store in Dubai (good store actually).
> So im wondering if the earlier version is that different in performance (im using an Acetal Raystorm atm)
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to guess that "good store in Dubai" is Uber. I've dealt with them before extensively, and I'm kinda on the fence about whether or not they're actually good.
> 
> Also you're raystorm is a better block than the supreme HF, why change?
Click to expand...

Aesthetics most likely.

In answer to the 1st Question, there isn't much of a difference between the two I don't think. If v1 fits your look I would just go that route. 144 Euro is seriously way too much for v2. You can get them over here in the States an even from EK (if they still carry them) for much less. Here they're about $90. And since the Euro is more than the dollar still you can imagine the kind of mark up that guy is getting.









I had one in my hands and have had both apart. There isn't much difference in the Internal structure of either block. I think that v2 is stiffer than v1 however.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> I'm going to guess that "good store in Dubai" is Uber. I've dealt with them before extensively, and I'm kinda on the fence about whether or not they're actually good.
> Also you're raystorm is a better block than the supreme HF, why change?


Aesthetics-i strip down my loop every 3 months, and i have some new gear, so i wanted to experiment. Yes Uber is the store, if you would like to share any experiences or give me any warnings-please PM me. Thanks (Btw what gpu block are you using?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Aesthetics most likely.
> In answer to the 1st Question, there isn't much of a difference between the two I don't think. If v1 fits your look I would just go that route. 144 Euro is seriously way too much for v2. You can get them over here in the States an even from EK (if they still carry them) for much less. Here they're about $90. And since the Euro is more than the dollar still you can imagine the kind of mark up that guy is getting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had one in my hands and have had both apart. There isn't much difference in the Internal structure of either block. I think that v2 is stiffer than v1 however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Morning Ceadderman-lol 'over here in the states'? why have i always been under the impression that you are from the UK?









As for the American market-mate i have scoured the whole planet-i kid you not! i found one place in the states, who thought it was safer to ship to Afghanistan, rather than Greece(go figure) the rest have sold out bud.

I know Gregor over at EKWB & that was my first post of call-no go for over 2 months. If you are aware of a dealer in the US that has them please PM me-ive tried all the Big 'Guns'

Output: No real difference? oh, thats interesting, i was under the impression that the latest version was way less restrictive.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> I'm going to guess that "good store in Dubai" is Uber. I've dealt with them before extensively, and I'm kinda on the fence about whether or not they're actually good.
> Also you're raystorm is a better block than the supreme HF, why change?
> 
> 
> 
> Aesthetics-i strip down my loop every 3 months, and i have some new gear, so i wanted to experiment. Yes Uber is the store, if you would like to share any experiences or give me any warnings-please PM me. Thanks (Btw what gpu block are you using?)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Aesthetics most likely.
> In answer to the 1st Question, there isn't much of a difference between the two I don't think. If v1 fits your look I would just go that route. 144 Euro is seriously way too much for v2. You can get them over here in the States an even from EK (if they still carry them) for much less. Here they're about $90. And since the Euro is more than the dollar still you can imagine the kind of mark up that guy is getting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had one in my hands and have had both apart. There isn't much difference in the Internal structure of either block. I think that v2 is stiffer than v1 however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Morning Ceadderman-lol 'over here in the states'? why have i always been under the impression that you are from the UK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the American market-mate i have scoured the whole planet-i kid you not! i found one place in the states, who thought it was safer to ship to Afghanistan, rather than Greece(go figure) the rest have sold out bud.
> 
> I know Gregor over at EKWB & that was my first post of call-no go for over 2 months. If you are aware of a dealer in the US that has them please PM me-ive tried all the Big 'Guns'
> 
> Output: No real difference? oh, thats interesting, i was under the impression that the latest version was way less restrictive.
Click to expand...

Nope not from the other side of the pond. Although if I were I'd probably live in Ireland next to the Guinness factory. I'm a sucker for a good Stout.







lol

I can do another search. I found that one v1 on eBay so I'll give er another rip. That one didn't sell btw so I may be able to find it again. Or one like it.

But yeah I saw absolutely no difference in the Internals of the v1 and v2. The only difference near as I can tell is that the bottom plate is slightly thinner maybe. Not that I'm the most qualified to judge tolerances with the nekkid eye. I'm fairly confident that there really isn't much difference internally. That doesn't mean that the top of the v2 doesn't have the depth in its favor though. I'm reasonably sure that is probably where the block gets it's better flow over v1. Still I doubt that it would be that big of a difference. For flow Supremacy seems to be slightly better than v2. But it's not THAT much better. Go back a page or so for a link the OCN review link of the newer blocks. Stren is doing the testing. Although I'm not sure that better flow = better cooling. I don't believe that Stren has done Load testing. I didn't see anything to indicate Load testing. Only flow and TIM testing. MX2 and IC Diamond Indigo I think was the second one. Didn't read through the whole review just skimmed over the specifics since I don't use either of those an I do use G751.









Anyway I'm off to do my search again.









~Ceadder


----------



## _REAPER_

Can someone PM the link for UBER in Dubai


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Not gonna find any v2 Supreme HF's around here now. I could barely find one back in June. It's Supremacy now or nothing, just like EK wanted...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not gonna find any v2 Supreme HF's around here now. I could barely find one back in June. It's Supremacy now or nothing, just like EK wanted...


They're around. You just have to have a lot of time on your hands in order to find them.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not gonna find any v2 Supreme HF's around here now. I could barely find one back in June. It's Supremacy now or nothing, just like EK wanted...


Try coldzero.eu


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Can someone PM the link for UBER in Dubai


Done-check your PM









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not gonna find any v2 Supreme HF's around here now. I could barely find one back in June. It's Supremacy now or nothing, just like EK wanted...


Yes it looks like that-i actually had a conversation on Thursday gone with EKWB(i cant go into details because i would be breaking EK's trust), but i clearly understand why they came out with the new block.

Please do not misunderstand my understanding for agreement-i immensely dislike the new block, hence the torture im going through to get an HF supreme-all i will say, is that i foresee, sometime in the future, the HF block re entering the market (a word to the wise, EK people







)- *and no, i was not told under any circumstances that they would be releasing HF Supremes again-its just logical business sense imho







*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Try coldzero.eu


Thanks B Neg for the link, just had a look, all they had was the HF Supreme full CU (copper) version, im looking for a plexi top for the Bling factor mate









Nevertheless tyvm again.


----------



## steelkevin

And I agree that the new blocks are horrible.


----------



## Ceadderman

Found a v1 copper top on eBay but the seller is marking up his shipping to get full BNIB value out of it. Which wouldn't be too bad if we were on the 2nd version. Now we're on the 3rd and 4 years after the fact if I miss my guess. Dude don't even know they're for the High Flow Supremes but clearly they are when the plate mount is shown to be correct and didn't even know they are for v1. Even says in his write up that he doesn't know. Yeesh.









Would have probably bought one if he'd have had a reasonable shipping cost.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi Guys,

Here is a pic of the Rx360 in the new Switch 810.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> Here is a pic of the Rx360 in the new Switch 810.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! good job.

Are the fans P&P, push, or just pull-i cant tell from the photos. (im betting P&P-and i was asking cause i am probably going to get a Black 810, and ditch my modded Haf 922, and i wanted to know about the room for radiators-i don't always believe the reviews and videos)


----------



## steelkevin

Oh, is it normal that when I forget to power on my bottom rad's 4 Noctuas I only get like 2-5° higher temps ? The other rad only has two 140mm Yate Loons (pulling) at the lowest possible speed (same for the Noctuas which don't boot at such low speed which is why I have to push them to full speed for a second and take them down to minimum everytime I turn my PC on).


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Nice! good job.
> Are the fans P&P, push, or just pull-i cant tell from the photos. (im betting P&P-and i was asking cause i am probably going to get a Black 810, and ditch my modded Haf 922, and i wanted to know about the room for radiators-i don't always believe the reviews and videos)


Easy push/pull with a RX360 in the Switch unless some motherboard feature prevents it. I have it in push/pull + fan guards and it clears my top heatsink by about 2mm. You can get a 420 up there if you're game for some easy (IMO) modding. No need for reviews, just check out the 810 owners thread.

Edit: for push/pull the upper fans will above the case top, but below the vented top cover.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not gonna find any v2 Supreme HF's around here now. I could barely find one back in June. It's Supremacy now or nothing, just like EK wanted...


I guess I was lucky then?

I bought my EK Supreme HF Plexi at the end of May 2012 and they were really easy to find on stock.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I got mine on Ebay in June and by then they were drying up everywhere (couldn't get them on Frozen, PPS, etc). Now you will pretty much have to score a used one I think....


----------



## RKTGX95

Question: what is the best E-tailer for international orders? (and generally not expensive)

(i think now its PPCS but i might be wrong)


----------



## MarcusarilliuS

Recently finished my new build, specs are as follows...

*Cpu*
i7-2700k @ 4.8ghz @ 1.36v (+0.020 offset) with HT enabled

*Gpu's*
2 x Gigabyte GTX670 Windforce OC in SLI (+100 core clock, +350 mem clock)
Base clock = 1080mhz
Boost clock = 1275mhz
Mem clock = 6700mhz(qdr)

*Mobo*
Asus P8Z68 Deluxe\gen3

*Ram*
16gb Corsair Dominator @1600mhz (7-8-8-24)

*Soundcard*
Creative X-Fi Titanium Pci-e

*Psu*
Corsair HX850w

*HDD's*
1 x 120gb Intel 520 SSD (Win7 and Progs)
1 x 240gb Intel 520 SSD (Games)
2 x 1tb Samsung spinpoint 7200rpm (Storage)

*Case*
Corsair 600T SE

*OS*
Win7 x64 Home Premium
*
Cooling*
Ek HF Nickel plexi cpu block
2 x Ek Full cover blocks with backplates, links and sli bridge for Graphics cards..
Phobya xtreme nova 1080 Radiator with Radbox
Swiftech MCP35x pump
Phobya Balancer 250 Res
Koolance quick disconnects on radbox and pc
Primochill white ID1/2" OD3/4" Tubing

Max cpu temp after 10 runs of IBT on maximum(1 hour) + 50 runs IBT highj(20 mins) + 12hrs Prime95 blend + 12 hrs Prime95 small FFT=

core 0=62
core 1=72
core 2=71
core 3=65

Max gpu temps after a few hours of benching with all the 3d marks + haven + some gaming(batman arkham city + skyrim + bf3) =

42 degrees C on each card

This is with fans on radbox at lowest possible speed and pump never going above 35% as I want it as silent as possible.

When gaming etc. cpu just about reached 60 degrees C, only goes higher when stressing with prime or IBT.

Here are some pics...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Question: what is the best E-tailer for international orders? (and generally not expensive)
> (i think now its PPCS but i might be wrong)


Aquatuning.us or .whatever country you are in, it will redirect you.

This is now my #1 go to site and I will always order from them provided that they stock the item I want. As a Canadian consumer this seems to be the best option for me. The custom fees are included in the shipping and their delivery is extremely fast. When I order from FrozenCPU I am always dinged with high custom fees and ridiculously slow delivery times 2-3 weeks and if I want something faster I have to go with UPS and pay even more for shipping and custom/duty fees.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Aquatuning.us or .whatever country you are in, it will redirect you.
> This is now my #1 go to site and I will always order from them provided that they stock the item I want. As a Canadian consumer this seems to be the best option for me. The custom fees are included in the shipping and their delivery is extremely fast. When I order from FrozenCPU I am always dinged with high custom fees and ridiculously slow delivery times 2-3 weeks and if I want something faster I have to go with UPS and pay even more for shipping and custom/duty fees.


Well, i'm in Israel (and i don't see a Aquatuning.il or Aquatuning.co.il so...) and thus far PPCS and FrozenCPU are the only ones i have seen to support shipping to here. plus, it would be really helpful if anyone knows which E-tailer has the most inexpensive shipping.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



the reason for this is because in Israel there is a tax of 17% if buying from abroad, though i am not completely sure how it applies to WC since most products have their own tax or just in a one big group. if i am correct then it means i would pay a 17% tax for goods above ~300$ which includes shipping.


----------



## NewHighScore

If you go to the website you will be able to select a country closest to you.

I was unaware frozencpu had a .il or .co.il


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> If you go to the website you will be able to select a country closest to you.
> I was unaware frozencpu had a .il or .co.il


i tried to make a little joke that AT doesn't have il / co.il websites since they have websites to most countries. Frozen and PPCS simply have shipping to Israel (by USPS, Fedex etc)

any more feedback


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarcusarilliuS*
> 
> Max cpu temp after 10 runs of IBT on maximum(1 hour) + 50 runs IBT highj(20 mins) + 12hrs Prime95 blend + 12 hrs Prime95 small FFT=
> core 0=62
> core 1=72
> core 2=71
> core 3=65
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I currently have temps like that and am not happy with them, Also went with a Phobya bench edition radiator stand (just for cpu loop)

Do you only have one pump on that whole setup? That's alot of tube, and blocks.

I feel I have flow problems being my CPU temp is the same as it was when it was with the 690 and just a 360mm and 240mm rad. Now the CPU is on just the rad stand (3 ex360's) and the temps are the same if not worse.





I just picked this up (+2 more MCP350's) to put inbetween rad #'s 2 & 3 on my stand.


----------



## MarcusarilliuS

I think the 35x is fine for this loop, don't think I have flow issues. Think it might be the EK block on the cpu. From what I can gather the mounting system for the cpu block is not ideal and don't know how well it contacts with the cpu.
Tried remounting it 2 times but made no difference.

Might try another cpu block at some stage.

The temps for the cpu are higher than what I though they would be they are still fine. The gpu temps are as expected it's only the cpu that is higher than what I thought.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarcusarilliuS*
> 
> I think the 35x is fine for this loop, don't think I have flow issues. Think it might be the EK block on the cpu. From what I can gather the mounting system for the cpu block is not ideal and don't know how well it contacts with the cpu.
> Tried remounting it 2 times but made no difference.
> Might try another cpu block at some stage.
> The temps for the cpu are higher than what I though they would be they are still fine. The gpu temps are as expected it's only the cpu that is higher than what I thought.


Give this guide by OCN charliehorse55 a read.

Also, I'll have 2 more pumps tomorrow, I'll come back here and let you know if my ~55c [email protected] at a mere 4.4Ghz drasticly decreased or stayed.


----------



## MarcusarilliuS

Will do, thanks.

From what I could gather form asking around on different forums before I built this rig, One 35x is plenty for the loop I have.

Interested to see how you get on.


----------



## JohnnyEars

I need some advice please folks, what can I use to clean paracord?

I was doing some upgrades today, and like a buffoon, i held the cpu cooler by a hose as I took it off... and it hit my cables that I had proudly made, tpu side down. So I've got grey tpu on my black para.. Should I just redo them, or is there a successful way of cleaning them?

Thanks


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I need some advice please folks, what can I use to clean paracord?
> I was doing some upgrades today, and like a buffoon, i held the cpu cooler by a hose as I took it off... and it hit my cables that I had proudly made, tpu side down. So I've got grey tpu on my black para.. Should I just redo them, or is there a successful way of cleaning them?
> Thanks


If the PSU is modular, why not just unplug the cord and then wash it with water and then let it dry all the way?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## JohnnyEars

Thanks, but looking at it more closely, it's only 3 or 4 cables, so I think I'll redo them


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Just fitted my RX360 in the bottom of my Azza Genesis 9000.
and some people said it wouldn't fit..pffftt..lol.
now to put my RX480 on the top.
(and i'll be airbrushing the cover of the PSU
as well as Rad - white and blue to match build)


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I guess I was lucky then?
> I bought my EK Supreme HF Plexi at the end of May 2012 and they were really easy to find on stock.


now I feel lucky too







I got the EK Supreme HF Plexi EN in August (from caseking.de). Seems like it was one of their last


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah there are still a few v1 and v2 around. So anyone looking for those over the CSQ Supremacy blocks( Everything I can do to hold my Ps an Qs...







) better get yor as... er a... keesters in gear. Hellfire-PCs' seems to be out of stock on them but he might still have some.









~Ceadder


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
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> 
> Tons more pics in my log - link in sig. Unfortunately I ended the night with a busted vrm and I didn't even get to play with my new toys











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tech99*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday I completed creating my first ever WC loop for my sig rig. It's not a new build since most of the components of the rig are more than 3 years old. But nevertheless it continues to serve me well.
> Here are the components for the loop.
> Swiftech MCP35X.
> 
> XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic Reservoir.
> 
> Alphacool Nexxxos UT60 360mm Radiator.
> 
> XSPC Raystorm.
> 
> Heatkiller GPU-X3 680 LT.
> 
> Feser Active UV Tubing (3/8 x 1/2)
> 
> Monsoon Compression Fittings.
> 
> Enermax Apollish Vegas 120mm.
> 
> More pics..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your rig is very neat, but my suggest -you check out *this* about your cable method. Good luck!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Updates:
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> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and it grows...
> finally got my new case for my 2nd build.
> what a beast.and only 5 bucks to ship it here..thanx NCIX..
> now i'm wondering if i should put the RX480 on the top
> like i wanted to or if i should just go with the slimmer EX480.
> in everyone else's opinion would i really even see a noticeable(5 or 10 degrees + higher)
> performance drop between the 2? i already have a RX360 going on
> the bottom of my case so i'm thinking the RX480 might be overkill.
> but on the other hand i do like to OC. lol.
> Also i'm thinking of changing my res. i might just buy a 160mm
> to go inside instead of a 250mm like i have already.
> just seems like it might look cramped with the 250. yet
> again if i choose the RX480 i'm cramped and if i choose the
> EX480 i'm kinda ok.
> lol..decisions decisions.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very Nice case, and Good luck with your wc building..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swisser*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just switched out my coolant so i thought id snap a few pics and throw them up here.
> Sorry for the crappy quality, these were taken with my cell phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mate, I had seen this somewhere another forum. but You are a super-welcome this OCN!! enjoy!!


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Just fitted my RX360 in the bottom of my Azza Genesis 9000.
> and some people said it wouldn't fit..pffftt..lol.
> now to put my RX480 on the top.
> (and i'll be airbrushing the cover of the PSU
> as well as Rad - white and blue to match build)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> now I feel lucky too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the EK Supreme HF Plexi EN in August (from caseking.de). Seems like it was one of their last


That's the place where I got mine.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I got mine from Hellfire on Ebay. Haven't seen any there for a long time...


----------



## wermad

I've checked the usual places and the HF is long gone. Tbh, the newer blocks from other companies offer similar if not the better performance. I picked up my HD for $50, so I can't complain


----------



## phillyd

Just cropped background this out of a pic of my Dwood PSU cover..


----------



## sunset1

this is a project i have been working on for a bit.. I have updated it since this photo but in case i dont get them uploaded before i leave for vacation here is a shot of my 2gpu one clc mod.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sunset1sunset1/8001784090/in/photostream
sorry im new to online photos so ... trying to teach a old dog new tricks.. ;>
Sunset1
btw thats a thermaltake water 2.0 extreme on top of a haf 22 with the top modified to let the pump go thru the top of the case under the plastic cover.
and a thermaltake water 2.0 pro on the back modded with a swiftech gpu block on the first card with koolance quick disconect fittings.
it also has a stock swiftech hd6900-hs heatsink on the first card with a 60mm quiet fan.
The second card has been updated now with a chmodlabs bracket, heavily modified swiftech hd6900-hs heatsink one mod for the pump/gpu block and one for the bracket. ( pita) But i wanted it to look similar and have great cooling.
the pro fans have been upgraded now to corsair sp120 quiet series 1450rpm 23db
the stock thermaltake fans will go on the bottom of the rad when i get back.
the gpu cards are xfx 695x cdfc? i ithink.. the ones with 3 heatpipes and 2 fans.
current temps on cards with 3dmark11 performace benchtest and gpu-z runniing in backgorund,
idle 34 34
load 50 50
there is more information on the red mod page in water cooling red mod.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Just cropped background this out of a pic of my Dwood PSU cover..


lovely. do you mind showing the rest of the build? pls.

nvm. saw your build log. thanks.


----------



## CBZ323

I just finished mine! More pics in m sig:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> lovely. do you mind showing the rest of the build? pls.
> nvm. saw your build log. thanks.


I believe those build log links will get you there
















two GTX 360s came in and some fans. Still waiting on more stuff to arrive


----------



## Qu1ckset

Got bored and impatient, decided to put my gpu waterblock on, should have the rest of my parts by Friday so i can build it on Saturday










































More pics in my build log


----------



## Roikyou

Qu1ckset, what did you think of the evga water block? I did those for the 680 for two cards over the weekend and found it difficult. Maybe just bad luck, I had a hard time getting the screws to seat properly. I actually broke one off cause it was so difficult. Then, you have three screw sets, the original, backplate and water block. I assume you use the water block screws/kit that came with it, It was a rough weekend getting the two cards put together, seated in the motherboard and in the case.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Qu1ckset, what did you think of the evga water block? I did those for the 680 for two cards over the weekend and found it difficult. Maybe just bad luck, I had a hard time getting the screws to seat properly. I actually broke one off cause it was so difficult. Then, you have three screw sets, the original, backplate and water block. I assume you use the water block screws/kit that came with it, It was a rough weekend getting the two cards put together, seated in the motherboard and in the case.


I actually found it really easy and had it done in about 15-20minz, the screws went in really easy, were you using the right size screwdriver and making sure the holes where lined up and not crossthreading them?

I have a whole set of mini electronic screwdrivers including the torx set.

I just have to wait a few days to see if I got a good mount with both gpu's


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well...my loop is finally bled and im getting 40c during 20 runs of IBT,GPUs idle at 26,load 42...very happy with it so far!
Time to get my overclocking hat on,4.2 should be plenty I think...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well...my loop is finally bled and im getting 40c during 20 runs of IBT,GPUs idle at 26,load 42...very happy with it so far!
> Time to get my overclocking hat on,4.2 should be plenty I think...


3dMark11 cpu p-score at 4.2 please







!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Anyone have experience with the Walker clear vinyl tubing they sell at Home Depot?

I ended up replacing half of my clear tubing this weekend, but fell short of finishing because I ran out. Then today, I remember reading a post somewhere in this thread about going to your local hardware store to get some. So today at lunch I did just that... Lowe's didn't have any, so I tried my luch at Home Depot, since they're right down the street from work. The Walker hose is of a similar consistency as the Danger Den tubing, but it seems just a hair more stiffer.

The three downsides of the Walker tubing is that slight density increase, it's not UV reactive, and there are black ink markers on the tubing at each foot. But the good thing about this tubing is that at least if I need to replace a section in a hurry, I don't have to wait for it to arrive in the mail.


----------



## Roikyou

I used the set that came with the water block (screws). I also have a mini set of screw drivers that fit snug but I still had to torque down on them, it was rough. The temps are good, both cards are running fine but installation was less than perfect... I talked with evga and they said I can shoot them some pics to see what they can do for me but that would be a matter of draining and breaking down the build again.... Not looking forward to that one.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Just update picture my cosmos ii
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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> My other project Cosmos ii


BEAUTIFUL setup


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the Walker clear vinyl tubing they sell at Home Depot?
> I ended up replacing half of my clear tubing this weekend, but fell short of finishing because I ran out. Then today, I remember reading a post somewhere in this thread about going to your local hardware store to get some. So today at lunch I did just that... Lowe's didn't have any, so I tried my luch at Home Depot, since they're right down the street from work. The Walker hose is of a similar consistency as the Danger Den tubing, but it seems just a hair more stiffer.
> The three downsides of the Walker tubing is that slight density increase, it's not UV reactive, and there are black ink markers on the tubing at each foot. But the good thing about this tubing is that at least if I need to replace a section in a hurry, I don't have to wait for it to arrive in the mail.


I used "Watts" tube from Home Depot and it held ok for some time. I bought some more and it clouded within a week. Its hit or miss if you're looking to resolve a clouding issues. Imo, just use this stuff for a temporary set up. I wouldn't put too much money and would highly consider going with colored tube if its not working with you.


----------



## Jonik

MSI HD 7970 Lightning water block -installation process and my system


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 3dMark11 cpu p-score at 4.2 please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Done deal werm,just dl'ing all my steam catalogue again. Sold my bench today and forgot to pull my backups off it....got crapload of stuff to recover.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the Walker clear vinyl tubing they sell at Home Depot?
> I ended up replacing half of my clear tubing this weekend, but fell short of finishing because I ran out. Then today, I remember reading a post somewhere in this thread about going to your local hardware store to get some. So today at lunch I did just that... Lowe's didn't have any, so I tried my luch at Home Depot, since they're right down the street from work. The Walker hose is of a similar consistency as the Danger Den tubing, but it seems just a hair more stiffer.
> The three downsides of the Walker tubing is that slight density increase, it's not UV reactive, and there are black ink markers on the tubing at each foot. But the good thing about this tubing is that at least if I need to replace a section in a hurry, I don't have to wait for it to arrive in the mail.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I used "Watts" tube from Home Depot and it held ok for some time. I bought some more and it clouded within a week. Its hit or miss if you're looking to resolve a clouding issues. Imo, just use this stuff for a temporary set up. I wouldn't put too much money and would highly consider going with colored tube if its not working with you.


Exactly, I got some from my local Home Depot and it clouded like you would not believe. Cheap though!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I used "Watts" tube from Home Depot and it held ok for some time. I bought some more and it clouded within a week. Its hit or miss if you're looking to resolve a clouding issues. Imo, just use this stuff for a temporary set up. I wouldn't put too much money and would highly consider going with colored tube if its not working with you.


Actually you're right... It's Watts, not Walker. Nonetheless, I guess I'll give it a try to see how it goes. If it clouds within a week or so, it'll be a lesson learned and it'll be one more experienced person to give their testimony.

Even if I went with colored tubing, the plastisizing would still occur. I just wouldn't see it until I crack open the loop. Nor would I be able to see large air pockets to clear them out. I know they'd eventually go away over time, but between that and the plastisizing, it seems like clear tubing and a couple of kill coils might be a better (and more accepted) way to maintain a water cooling loop than to conceal it with color tubing... I could be wrong though. And by all means, no offense to those who use color tubes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Actually you're right... It's Watts, not Walker. Nonetheless, I guess I'll give it a try to see how it goes. If it clouds within a week or so, it'll be a lesson learned and it'll be one more experienced person to give their testimony.
> Even if I went with colored tubing, the plastisizing would still occur. I just wouldn't see it until I crack open the loop. Nor would I be able to see large air pockets to clear them out. I know they'd eventually go away over time, but between that and the plastisizing, it seems like clear tubing and a couple of kill coils might be a better (and more accepted) way to maintain a water cooling loop than to conceal it with color tubing... No offense to those who use color tubes.


I understand. Its so tempting to show off your liquid with clear tube, especially colored/dyed liquid. I've had my fair share of experiences and experimenting and I don't want to deal with it on this current build. Its been a few months though, so thing may have changed, but I doubt major progress has been obtained (imho). I kept my old colored tube from my last build and so it was easier for me to work off this. Some of it had very little if not a super thin coat of plasticizing. I'm going to rinse it thoroughly and then just drop it in and forget. I never had issues with the liquid decolorizing because of the plasticizing so that just reaffirms the notion of many, its a tube issue. Good luck and hopefully the Watts holds for a while







.


----------



## sunset1

@phillyd looks awesome good work by dwood and nice mod.


----------



## jagz

Moar Pump.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CBZ323*
> 
> I just finished mine! More pics in m sig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1061547/
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1061555/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1061558/


Wow, that's very nice looking!


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Actually you're right... It's Watts, not Walker. Nonetheless, I guess I'll give it a try to see how it goes. If it clouds within a week or so, it'll be a lesson learned and it'll be one more experienced person to give their testimony.
> Even if I went with colored tubing, the plastisizing would still occur. I just wouldn't see it until I crack open the loop. Nor would I be able to see large air pockets to clear them out. I know they'd eventually go away over time, but between that and the plastisizing, it seems like clear tubing and a couple of kill coils might be a better (and more accepted) way to maintain a water cooling loop than to conceal it with color tubing... I could be wrong though. And by all means, no offense to those who use color tubes.


The watts is absolutely terrible tubing. clouds really really fast and has a terrible bend radius. I bought a bunch of i but ended up never using it.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is the plastizer bad for the loop or its just that it clouds the water?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm amazed... I don't actually HATE that 7970 Lightning water block with the crop circles! Still hate that it would clash with other blocks in my rig...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the plastizer bad for the loop or its just that it clouds the water?


Sometimes it can cause actual havoc with the system and cause the loop to be blocked. Here are some photos from Michael @Mayhems Facebook page, citing plasticizer actually clogged his loop and caused one of the tubes to pop off. Now I think this is an extreme scenario, but there is the risk.


I think B Neg can vouch for this as he's friends with Michael on Facebook as well.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

After months and months of looking at the amazing builds on this thread, I am ready to add mine to the club. Here's my Switch 810 build with a 420mm full sized (60mm thick) rad. I am starting with the CPU for now then adding the GPU when the next generation cards come out.

I am planning on adding some Mayhems dye to the loop but I did not like the overall color of the reg green UV dye so later on, I am planning making a better Toxic waste looking green with some blue and yellow. The Tubing I am running is the 1/2" - 3/4" Durelene

More info can be found in my log. Enjoy









Revision 1 before I swap'd the rear fan out and took out the 45 deg for a 90deg fitting on the rad by the rear fan.


----------



## PCModderMike

That 420 up top is boss. Just wow, good job.







Also painting some of the pieces on the exterior green really sets off the colour scheme.
I'm also going to try out Durelene myself next time I change the loop, just hope the price doesn't go up with everyone jumping on it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> After months and months of looking at the amazing builds on this thread, I am ready to add mine to the club. Here's my Switch 810 build with a 420mm full sized (60mm thick) rad. I am starting with the CPU for now then adding the GPU when the next generation cards come out.
> I am planning on adding some Mayhems dye to the loop but I did not like the overall color of the reg green UV dye so later on, I am planning making a better Toxic waste looking green with some blue and yellow. The Tubing I am running is the 1/2" - 3/4" Durelene
> More info can be found in my log. Enjoy
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Revision 1 before I swap'd the rear fan out and took out the 45 deg for a 90deg fitting on the rad by the rear fan.


This is the first time i have found an Amd cpu block look smexy! You pulled off an amazing job here mate


----------



## Alfaa

Hey, quick question.

Does anyone have any info about the stacked 6-pin connector on the 680? Specifically, can I unsolder the stacked one and put two 6-pins side by side? Or does the one with solder pads for an 8-pin need to be 8-pin only? I really want to get rid of this fugly connector!

Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Hey, quick question.
> Does anyone have any info about the stacked 6-pin connector on the 680? Specifically, can I unsolder the stacked one and put two 6-pins side by side? Or does the one with solder pads for an 8-pin need to be 8-pin only? I really want to get rid of this fugly connector!
> Thanks!


Its technically feasible but void warranty-able too







Check for the GB WF3, it uses the same pcb as the reference 680 or the DC2 which have blocks available forrrrr them too. Tbh, I'm not a fan of the stacked power connectors but it is what it is


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its technically feasible but void warranty-able too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check for the GB WF3, it uses the same pcb as the reference 680 or the DC2 which have blocks available forrrrr them too. Tbh, I'm not a fan of the stacked power connectors but it is what it is


Haha, I already have my 680







and an Alphacool waterblock on it.

I have seen people do mods with their 680s to get rid of that stacked connector. I was just wondering if any of the people here have any information or attempted such a thing.

I'm not afraid to get my soldering iron out and have some fun


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> The watts is absolutely terrible tubing. clouds really really fast and has a terrible bend radius. I bought a bunch of i but ended up never using it.


sry but i can't agree you with i been using mine for about a month now and theirs not one sign of clouding...you must be running sum nasty coolant to cause that... the bend radius is perfectly fine for me their's no kinks in my loop even when bending a short piece. i have proof if you want it







.... just a heads up it will cloud up quickly or slowly depending on the coolant you use


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the Walker clear vinyl tubing they sell at Home Depot?
> I ended up replacing half of my clear tubing this weekend, but fell short of finishing because I ran out. Then today, I remember reading a post somewhere in this thread about going to your local hardware store to get some. So today at lunch I did just that... Lowe's didn't have any, so I tried my luch at Home Depot, since they're right down the street from work. The Walker hose is of a similar consistency as the Danger Den tubing, but it seems just a hair more stiffer.
> The three downsides of the Walker tubing is that slight density increase, it's not UV reactive, and there are black ink markers on the tubing at each foot. But the good thing about this tubing is that at least if I need to replace a section in a hurry, I don't have to wait for it to arrive in the mail.


I can't actually say if it was the Walker brand tubing or not - but I did buy some from Home Depot that was just plain clear tubing. It was ok to use in a pinch, but I found that that "stiffness" dissipated with a little heat. In fact, at full load, I had to watch the loop coming off my GPU or it would go flaccid and kink. It didn't try to melt or anything - just lost a good bit of its stiffness and was easily pliable between your fingers. So just check the temp rating, otherwise it should work fine.
Edit: I checked - mine was WATTS as well, both the plain and the fiber reinforced - only the fiber reinforced didn't have the pliability issue.

If you want something that will be durable, as well as readily available, I use this from Home Depot. It will plasticize over time (as most all tubing does now days) but I like it. It's very sturdy and hard to kink, so you can form a pretty tight radius with it....best of all it's CHEAP!

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202257606/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=3%2F8+x+5%2F8+tubing&storeId=10051#.UGEkJI2PVnA

I have pics of it in use in my sig rig Domino.








If you are looking to show off your Mayhems Aurora or something of the like - then this probably won't work for you. It's not bad looking tubing, but the fiber reinforcement hinders a clear view of the fluid inside.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the plastizer bad for the loop or its just that it clouds the water?


It just clouds the tubing, not even the water. It's not that big of a deal really.... just ugly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> sry but i can't agree you with i been using mine for about a month now and theirs not one sign of clouding...you must be running sum nasty coolant to cause that... the bend radius is perfectly fine for me their's no kinks in my loop even when bending a short piece. i have proof if you want it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... just a heads up it will cloud up quickly or slowly depending on the coolant you use


I dunno what you got, but the stuff i got from home depot was just awful...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonik*
> 
> MSI HD 7970 Lightning water block -installation process and my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Man I love those blocks!
BTW, what does it take power-wise to run a quad CFX set-up like that? Honda portable generator?


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the plastizer bad for the loop or its just that it clouds the water?


Generally (in my personal experience) it doesn't cloud the water. You will still have a crystal clear reservoir (at least I did/still do). It just forms a white film on the inside of your tubing - and in some cases a film also on the inside of your fittings. I personally have never had it coat my fittings, res or blocks, but I have seen pictures of it inside fittings.

Bottom line, it's just worrisome when you start having any type of buildup or coating of anything in a cooling loop. It is generally a sign of something breaking down that shouldn't be breaking down, or something growing that shouldn't be growing. Either way, in the end, it could compromise the effectiveness of your cooling loop. When you are in pursuit of greater performance the last thing you want to encounter is an unknown variable in your carefully calculated plans!









(I don't know if the stuff floating in my tea would hurt me, but I'm dang sure going to ask the waiter for another tea in a fresh glass! - know what I mean?)


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That 420 up top is boss. Just wow, good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also painting some of the pieces on the exterior green really sets off the colour scheme.
> I'm also going to try out Durelene myself next time I change the loop, just hope the price doesn't go up with everyone jumping on it.


Thanks, the painting of the front went very smooth but I had lots of trouble with the top with it chipping and trying to correct some mistakes when I held the spray can too close. I ended up having to re-do it. it's the rubber trim part of the case and I would suggest to anyone doing the same is to let the paint fully dry for a couple of days before you really start handling it. I did that with the front and it turned out flawless. There is actually some places where the paint chipped on the top part but you cannot see since the black part overlaps that area. I am planning on getting some touch up paint to fill that in.

The Durelene I bought from sidewinder computers. Before I drained my case last week, I had the tubing for 14 days and it was as clear as when I first installed it which means i did a good job flushing my rad. I am going to wait a bit before I mix up some custom Mayhems dye to see how things go. So far, I have heard nothing but great things about the Durelene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is the first time i have found an Amd cpu block look smexy! You pulled off an amazing job here mate


The block is the XSPC Raystom Full Copper with the AMD mounting kit installed on it which was not easy to find since the Full Copper version only comes with Intel mounting hardware/brackets. I found one over at Sidewinder Computers and they sent me another Intel mounting set instead of the AMD one I ordered. I contacted them on a Friday about the mistake and my AMD kit arrived on monday







Talk about great service

The green LED's I added look much better in person then it does in the pic.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I used the set that came with the water block (screws). I also have a mini set of screw drivers that fit snug but I still had to torque down on them, it was rough. The temps are good, both cards are running fine but installation was less than perfect... I talked with evga and they said I can shoot them some pics to see what they can do for me but that would be a matter of draining and breaking down the build again.... Not looking forward to that one.


What water block are you talking about? EVGA? I'm about to install my EVGA backplates also, so any input is appreciated. Cheers.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> The watts is absolutely terrible tubing. clouds really really fast and has a terrible bend radius. I bought a bunch of i but ended up never using it.


Its not bad nor is it the best. Bends really come down to the wall thickness. You wanna look for 1/8" thick wall to make the fluid bends (ie 38x5/8 or 1/2x3/4). Its a bit more stiff with once the liquid warms up it will conform or settle. Its more of a crap shoot to be honest. Some have made it work, others are just interested in the ease of availability and inexpensive cost.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the plastizer bad for the loop or its just that it clouds the water?


Nope. Never was an issue in terms of performance or harm to any components. In fact, the liquid remained the same color. Its generally an aesthetics things. Noboday who is running non-pastel wants a cloudy (or pastel) like color on their tube.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> sry but i can't agree you with i been using mine for about a month now and theirs not one sign of clouding...you must be running sum nasty coolant to cause that... the bend radius is perfectly fine for me their's no kinks in my loop even when bending a short piece. i have proof if you want it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... just a heads up it will cloud up quickly or slowly depending on the coolant you use


This. You really have to look at the tube wall thickness to achieve fluid bends. I did find a bit more rigid than Primochill, which is a good and not so good thing. But with the right fittings, it works just like any other tube. Thicker walled tube will bend much better, hence why I switched from 3/8x1/2 to 3/8x5/8.


----------



## Jonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm amazed... I don't actually HATE that 7970 Lightning water block with the crop circles! Still hate that it would clash with other blocks in my rig...


It is the only water block on my favorite lightning.







No choice!


----------



## Qu1ckset

So is it going noticiable when clouding happens on my purple masterkleer pvc uv tubing or is it going to be hard to seeing since the purple is decently dark?


----------



## Jonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man I love those blocks!
> BTW, what does it take power-wise to run a quad CFX set-up like that? Honda portable generator?


thanks! Supply provide 2xEnermax 1250Wt


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Sometimes it can cause actual havoc with the system and cause the loop to be blocked. Here are some photos from Michael @Mayhems Facebook page, citing plasticizer actually clogged his loop and caused one of the tubes to pop off. Now I think this is an extreme scenario, but there is the risk.
> 
> 
> I think B Neg can vouch for this as he's friends with Michael on Facebook as well.


That was not plastizer,just poorly fitted used tubing.
Plasticizer will NOT clog a block enough to pop a compression fitting,Mayhem has a hate thing going with XSPC because of this..http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=46118


----------



## u3b3rg33k

That hose on the right side of the CPU block looks like it was improperly installed in the fitting as well...

PC watercooling pumps just aren't capable of high enough pressure to "pop" a piece of tubing off of a proper compression fitting. these aren't high pressure pumps, they're modified aquarium/mini water-feature pumps used for circulation. Ask them to pump any real pressure (<10 PSI) and their output drops to nearly nothing (if you can stop the flow by putting your finger over the end of the hose...).


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That was not plastizer,just poorly fitted used tubing.
> Plasticizer will NOT clog a block enough to pop a compression fitting,Mayhem has a hate thing going with XSPC because of this..http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=46118


Ahh yea he did give a nice little rant about XSPC when posting those photos....figures. Personally I thought it was extreme and have never experienced anything like that myself.


----------



## hammerforged

Here the little piece of joy I found in my loop last night. So glad I decided to break it down. Black Primochill Pro LRT. EK clear premix coolant.



Loop is only two months old. Pretty upset about this.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Doesn't really matter with black tubing. Can't see it until you break it down...


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Doesn't really matter with black tubing. Can't see it until you break it down...


Just because you cant see it doesnt mean it acceptable. Wouldnt you be upset? I cant imagine how it would of looked after a year. The coolant was starting to yellow as well. I almost think black is worse because you have no idea that this is happening till its too late. Im sure the EK coolant didnt help maters but still.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonik*
> 
> MSI HD 7970 Lightning water block -installation process and my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those EK blocks are starting to grow on me. Especially this one.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Here the little piece of joy I found in my loop last night. So glad I decided to break it down. Black Primochill Pro LRT. EK clear premix coolant.
> 
> Loop is only two months old. Pretty upset about this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Just because you cant see it doesnt mean it acceptable. Wouldnt you be upset? I cant imagine how it would of looked after a year. The coolant was starting to yellow as well. I almost think black is worse because you have no idea that this is happening till its too late. Im sure the EK coolant didnt help maters but still.


I must ask with all this tubing conspiracy happening what is the best type of tube to use with Mayhem's Pastel? I will be very sad if my loop looks poopy after spending nearly a grand on WC components.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Has anyone tried some hose from mcmaster?

Extreme-Temperature Tubing Made with PTFE and Teflon® PTFE
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5033kac/=jg1qv5
It's a little pricey but it seems to resist most chemicals and provides excellent temperature resistance. They also have alot of other hoses for possible use in computers... Just wondered if anyone has


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Here the little piece of joy I found in my loop last night. So glad I decided to break it down. Black Primochill Pro LRT. EK clear premix coolant.
> 
> Loop is only two months old. Pretty upset about this.


it can't be help bro... as long as your running water through your loops it gonna happen... the only thing you can to is slow the clouding processor is if you can add some waterwetter to the loop it my slow the the process of clouding by not letting the water settle or stick on the wall of the tubing. the type of coolant i use is 85% distill and 15% oli....the oil act as an lubricant, lubricating the inner of the tubing that way the water as nothing to stick or settle on, it also causes to water not to create drag or friction in the loop making the pump work less ... i hope this make sense









one more thing, the oil also help to lubricate the pump as well. no it doesn't affect my temps


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I must ask with all this tubing conspiracy happening what is the best type of tube to use with Mayhem's Pastel? I will be very sad if my loop looks poopy after spending nearly a grand on WC components.


With Mayhems I Personally would follow the rest of the pack here and get some Durelene Clear Tubing.. http://search.sidewindercomputers.com/search?.autodone=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sidewindercomputers.com%2Fnsearch.html&catalog=sidewindercomputers&x=17&y=10&query=durelene


----------



## Mercyflush64

Why would you want to use coolant with black tubing anyway? All you are doing is putting additional items into the equation that can foul your setup. I have used distilled water and PK Nuke for years and the only time I have ever seen any corrosion or goop buildup was in the corners of my clear resevoir and a little ketchup cleaned that right up. The old saying applies here...... "Keep it simple".


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Durelene seems to be the best at the moment.. As far as I know plasticizing only really affects the loop cosmetically and shouldn't really degrade performance. If your coolant is yellowing however I would obviously switch tubing. My rig has been up since July with clear Durelene and is still crystal clear...


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> it can't be help bro... as long as your running water through your loops it gonna happen... the only thing you can to is slow the clouding processor is if you can add some waterwetter to the loop it my slow the the process of clouding by not letting the water settle or stick on the wall of the tubing. the type of coolant i use is 85% distill and 15% oli....the oil act as an lubricant, lubricating the inner of the tubing that way the water as nothing to stick or settle on, it also causes to water not to create drag or friction in the loop making the pump work less ... i hope this make sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one more thing, the oil also help to lubricate the pump as well. no it doesn't affect my temps


lol running OIL in your water? are you trying to create an emulsion? might as well run automotive coolant - it actually mixes with water...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Here the little piece of joy I found in my loop last night. So glad I decided to break it down. Black Primochill Pro LRT. EK clear premix coolant.
> 
> Loop is only two months old. Pretty upset about this.


What am I looking at?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene seems to be the best at the moment.. As far as I know plasticizing only really affects the loop cosmetically and shouldn't really degrade performance. If your coolant is yellowing however I would obviously switch tubing. My rig has been up since July with clear Durelene and is still crystal clear...


Thats what Im switching too. Gonna sleeve it so Ill post some pics if anyone would like to see. I know its not going to hurt anything but it just kinda sucks to see a product do that







Also just going straight distilled with kill coil.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> What am I looking at?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/0_20


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> What am I looking at?


The area circled in red is the way the tubing looks brand new, and how it's supposed to look. The area circled in yellow and kind of grayed looking is the plasticizer build up.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I must ask with all this tubing conspiracy happening what is the best type of tube to use with Mayhem's Pastel? I will be very sad if my loop looks poopy after spending nearly a grand on WC components.


I was recommended durelen, and its dirt cheap too! Look on sidewinders


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> lol running OIL in your water? are you trying to create an emulsion? might as well run automotive coolant - it actually mixes with water...
> What am I looking at?


here a link of my watts tubing from home depot and my coolant i'm using with oli in it
looks like milk don't it? but it work like a charm









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbO2nY5Dzaw&list=UUAxNopJ9n1rb-lUADrDOJjg&index=1&feature=plcp


----------



## sebar

SingularityComputers has done a comparison video on different tubing and how fast/much different tubing gets cloudy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxblWYac11g&feature=relmfu


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> With Mayhems I Personally would follow the rest of the pack here and get some Durelene Clear Tubing.. http://search.sidewindercomputers.com/search?.autodone=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sidewindercomputers.com%2Fnsearch.html&catalog=sidewindercomputers&x=17&y=10&query=durelene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> I was recommended durelen, and its dirt cheap too! Look on sidewinders


Thanks guys I will look into it. Does sidewinders ship to Canada?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Thanks guys I will look into it. Does sidewinders ship to Canada?


Yep..
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/info.html
3. UPS worldwide Express (saver) - Delivered in 3-5 days, available to select locations only. (United Kingdom, Canada, Australia)


----------



## Bayu

hi

Spec:
First loop is Thermaltake BigWater 850 Gt
with EK Water Blocks EK Supremacy - Plexi Nickel CSQ on cpu
Loop no 2
Swiftech Pump MCP355 12V (Laing DDC 1T + )
Black Water Advanced 143

Next week ill add WC on my gtx 690 and on bridge on Rampage iv ex


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bayu*
> 
> hi
> Spec:
> First loop is Thermaltake BigWater 850 Gt
> with EK Water Blocks EK Supremacy - Plexi Nickel CSQ on cpu
> Loop no 2
> Swiftech Pump MCP355 12V (Laing DDC 1T + )
> Black Water Advanced 143
> Next week ill add WC on my gtx 690 and on bridge on Rampage iv ex
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi
Is that a radiator sitting inside the water tank?


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hi
> Is that a radiator sitting inside the water tank?


Looks like it. Its a pretty clever idea to use a radiator as a heat exchanger. I would be worried about the paint peeling or chipping, though. Radiators aren't meant to be submerged!


----------



## siffonen

Has anybody put a 240 rad on a front of Haf X? I`m changing my tubes to black primochill, and at the same time i might change ex240 rads location to inside, maybe where the front 230mm fan is currently located, if that is possible


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Here the little piece of joy I found in my loop last night. So glad I decided to break it down. Black Primochill Pro LRT. EK clear premix coolant.
> 
> Loop is only two months old. Pretty upset about this.


This is EXACTLY why I don't want colored tubing. No doubt if I'm monitoring and maintaining my tubing every six months, it wouldn't matter if my tubing is colored or not. But the fact that I can't see problems like this makes it hard to assess how much longer I can extend or prolong changing out the tubing. I mean if it isn't broke, why fix it... With colored tubing, you don't have that option. That's kind of why I prefer the clear.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I`m changing my tubes to black primochill


Its easy tubing to work with and looks great on the Outside but..just be aware of this.. Thats one week of use and Distilled + 1 Killcoil..Good Luck


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Its easy tubing to work with and looks great on the Outside but..just be aware of this.. Thats one week of use and Distilled + 1 Killcoil..Good Luck
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It depends on the formula, iirc they adjusted the formula for their tubing because of the issues so new batches should be fine now.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> It depends on the formula, iirc they adjusted the formula for their tubing because of the issues so new batches should be fine now.


Good to Know.. I Purchased that Tubing from PCS in end of July to be Fair.. and again in mid of August. both batches Leached.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Its easy tubing to work with and looks great on the Outside but..just be aware of this.. Thats one week of use and Distilled + 1 Killcoil..Good Luck
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn i have that problem with my current tubing, hoped that primochill will be better ,what is the best tube to use with distilled + killcoil


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Damn i have that problem with my current tubing, hoped that primochill will be better ,what is the best tube to use with distilled + killcoil


If you want Black, there is a guy testing some Feser tubing its blue but still a Positive Result. Or if your feel like Gambling there is always your First choice.
Or go with Clear so you can see whats actually happening inside..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/1420#post_18212679


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If you want Black, there is a guy testing some Feser tubing its blue but still a Positive Result. Or if your feel like Gambling there is always your First choice.
> Or go with Clear so you can see whats actually happening inside..
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/1420#post_18212679


With the translucent tubing (UV) you can shine a flashlight on the tubing and see thru it. I can tell when my colored tubing is clouded that way. 'Course this only works with the translucent colored tubing cuz yer out of luck with solid colors.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Those EK blocks are starting to grow on me. Especially this one.


Hell yes, I love that block!








Want one so bad! I can't afford a new card right now though - not to mention the block


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Tygon Neoprene is black and supposedly good but expensive...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> With the translucent tubing (UV) you can shine a flashlight on the tubing and see thru it. I can tell when my colored tubing is clouded that way. 'Course this only works with the translucent colored tubing cuz yer out of luck with solid colors.


Yep.... My only indicator is the Water line on both my res. I really dont feel like cutting this apart again.. Just living with it Now.

This is after cleaning the tubing 1 time and 1 month run time. Distilled + 1 killcoil Cpu loop


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







No tube cleaning and Straight Distilled 1 month run Gpu loop


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Bayu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Looks like it. Its a pretty clever idea to use a radiator as a heat exchanger. I would be worried about the paint peeling or chipping, though. Radiators aren't meant to be submerged!


If it will leak ill buy new one ;P

I have got 2 radiators , one is air cooled inside pc and one is in water tank ;D Loop goes that way

water res to pump no 1 to cpu then to first air cooled rad then to pump no 2 to rad inside water and back to res







i plan to put cooling on gpu


----------



## siffonen

Which one is better, Primochill Primoflex Pro or Tygon R3400, both black? especially with the plasticizer problem. My "local" store has a limited amount of tubing, only Tygon, Primochill, Masterkleer, and N/A.


----------



## RKTGX95

any opinions on MasterKleer tubing? (especially the red or clear)


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> any opinions on MasterKleer tubing? (especially the red or clear)


Clear masterkleer clouds at the same rate durelene does.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Clear masterkleer clouds at the same rate durelene does.


now i know which tubing to buy







(but i'd still like some proof / evidence for this claim)
also, silver coil or this?


----------



## JohnnyEars

I fitted Masterkleer clear u/v blue this weekend - I'm hoping it doesn't yellow like the xspc clear I had before (running Mayhems X1 u/v blue)


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> now i know which tubing to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (but i'd still like some proof / evidence for this claim)
> also, silver coil or this?


I did a test a while back in the plasticizer discussion thread comparing tygon, durelene, primochill, and masterkleer in which masterkleer and durelene tied for first. I've had better luck with a kill coil personally.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I fitted Masterkleer clear u/v blue this weekend - I'm hoping it doesn't yellow like the xspc clear I had before (running Mayhems X1 u/v blue)


since you run UV coolant it is possible that the material that is responsible for the UV effect is also responsible for staining your tubing. (its just a educated guess, so don't quote me on this)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I did a test a while back in the plasticizer discussion thread comparing tygon, durelene, primochill, and masterkleer in which masterkleer and durelene tied for first. I've had better luck with a kill coil personally.


thanks. i'm suggesting the dead water only from the idea that the silver _might_ react with some fittings / blocks.

also, what is the idea (and thing itself) of adding something to the loop to "make the water wetter"?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> since you run UV coolant it is possible that the material that is responsible for the UV effect is also responsible for staining your tubing. (its just a educated guess, so don't quote me on this)
> thanks. i'm suggesting the dead water only from the idea that the silver _might_ react with some fittings / blocks.
> also, what is the idea (and thing itself) of adding something to the loop to "make the water wetter"?


Mayhem's uv clear/blue isn't actually a dye and can't stain.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Mayhem's uv clear/blue isn't actually a dye and can't stain.


my bad







i just assumed (again, i'm no expert) that because there are many UV additives that stain it could be the same case. (i know that the UV red/pink has a serious staining problem as of now)

(btw, any ideo for my question of "wetter water"?)


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> since you run UV coolant it is possible that the material that is responsible for the UV effect is also responsible for staining your tubing. (its just a educated guess, so don't quote me on this)


That's exactly what I was thinking (looking at u/v additive it looks yellow-ish to the eye)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Guys,this has gone a bit off topic,please post and discuss any tubing problems here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery

This is a rig gallery,not a problem thread.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> my bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just assumed (again, i'm no expert) that because there are many UV additives that stain it could be the same case. (i know that the UV red/pink has a serious staining problem as of now)
> (btw, any ideo for my question of "wetter water"?)


I don't have any experience with water wetter additives so I wouldn't know. They could potentially decrease temps or increase temps, but that would need to be tested.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I don't have any experience with water wetter additives so I wouldn't know. They could potentially decrease temps or increase temps, but that would need to be tested.


i only remember finding this thread for 09 where the basic idea is to add an additive which breaks the water's surface tension which helps it to reduce the restriction on the water. not sure what it was, but something you add to the dishwasher has a very similar property and one drop of it would suffice a loop.

but anyway, i love the look of that res in your avatar.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I may end up flipping the script and just use steel braided hoses for my next build, like that one user that posted in this thread.


----------



## ugotd8

Just got the Alphacool Nexxos XP3 from PPCS today. No way I'm using this block, esp. with an MCP35X2...









The outlet is only half-threaded.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Just got the Alphacool Nexxos XP3 from PPCS today. No way I'm using this block, esp. with an MCP35X2...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outlet is only half-threaded.


I used ports like that and never had a leak. What did Strehn say about it? Seeing he did a review on it









edit:: is not threaded all around or just talking about the thread pitch/depth?


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I used ports like that and never had a leak. What did Strehn say about it? Seeing he did a review on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:: is not threaded all around or just talking about the thread pitch/depth?


Stren didn't mention it either way other than it won the shootout, so I guess it didn't leak for him.

This person claims that with a simple turn of the fitting one can strip the threads (or at least make the fitting loose again).

I guess what bothers me is not that it's half threaded, if it works it works, but the fact that EVERY photo on the internet of this block (intentionally?) does not show the fact that it's half threaded on the outlet port.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Stren didn't mention it either way other than it won the shootout, so I guess it didn't leak for him.
> This person claims that with a simple turn of the fitting one can strip the threads (or at least make the fitting loose again).
> I guess what bothers me is not that it's half threaded, if it works it works, but the fact that EVERY photo on the internet of this block (intentionally?) does not show the fact that it's half threaded on the outlet port.


Im a bit confused though. Are you saying that half of the hole, like crescent, is only threaded? Or are the threads not deep enough?


----------



## ugotd8

Half the hole is completely unthreaded. See this pic

I was not the first to discover this, I ordered it a couple hours before opt33's post. Actually, I think rge on XS is opt33 here at ocn (same avatar).


----------



## Qu1ckset

Im honestly pretty pissed off and aggravated, my EK-DCP 4.0 comboe came today, and mounting the res to the pump is by far the WORST design ive even seen, the screws dont line up good, its hard to get them to start threading, im so mad i bought this POS , and if i cant get it to mount i wont be able to do my build this weekend, hell i can barely get the screws to thread with the res off, i thought maybe i stripped the holes, but when i put the orginal screws that came with the pump back in they thread PERFECTLY!!

can someone please help me!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Garbage block is Garbage.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Half the hole is completely unthreaded. See this pic
> I was not the first to discover this, I ordered it a couple hours before opt33's post. Actually, I think rge on XS is opt33 here at ocn (same avatar).


I see. the depth on the other half is mising. Well, I can see your concern. Has anyone contacted Alphacool? I'm sure they would have pressure (air) tested these to ensure the fittings don't pop. Usually things are overbuilt to withstand a slightly higher tolerance.

Personally, just setup a simple loop with no components attached and outside your case and run the pump full power for 24hrs. If anything, you can always use epoxy to glue an extension on there







. Or just return it and get a different block


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Im honestly pretty pissed off and aggravated, my EK-DCP 4.0 comboe came today, and mounting the res to the pump is by far the WORST design ive even seen, the screws dont line up good, its hard to get them to start threading, im so mad i bought this POS , and if i cant get it to mount i wont be able to do my build this weekend, hell i can barely get the screws to thread with the res off, i thought maybe i stripped the holes, but when i put the orginal screws that came with the pump back in they thread PERFECTLY!!
> can someone please help me!


Shoot us a ticket on EK Support. These DCP4.0 Combos are cast and some might slipped QC. We will replace the unit for you!








I don't think you stripped the threads. Yes, mounting it is PITA but not impossbile. That's why we're making a new version.

Regards,
Niko


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Im honestly pretty pissed off and aggravated, my EK-DCP 4.0 comboe came today, and mounting the res to the pump is by far the WORST design ive even seen, the screws dont line up good, its hard to get them to start threading, im so mad i bought this POS , and if i cant get it to mount i wont be able to do my build this weekend, hell i can barely get the screws to thread with the res off, i thought maybe i stripped the holes, but when i put the orginal screws that came with the pump back in they thread PERFECTLY!!
> 
> can someone please help me!


I know exactly what you mean. Deff is a PITA to get on but works great once you do.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Shoot us a ticket on EK Support. These DCP4.0 Combos are cast and some might slipped QC. We will replace the unit for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you stripped the threads. Yes, mounting it is PITA but not impossbile. That's why we're making a new version.
> Regards,
> Niko


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I know exactly what you mean. Deff is a PITA to get on but works great once you do.


I ended taking a break before i whipped it at the wall, and then took another stab at it, apparenty the screws that came with the res are bigger then the screws that where in the pump, so i had to put the screws in without the res and work them in, took abit of force, but once in they would screw in and out fairly easy, and i now got it mounted snug.. but ya def needs a revamp in design, hex screws suck when in tight places like that, i stripped the hex key and thank god not the screw, lucky i have a personal set of hex keys


----------



## tiborrr12

Yeah, well, you need to take the pump screws out to install the reservoir


----------



## Qu1ckset

ugh so i opened my uv cathode kit that i ordered from performance-pcs and i thought it would look like the pic below which is on there website, only reason i got it was for the style of the power switch, because i could mount it on the gromet at the top of my case but instead its that crappy pci bracket switch... i kinda wish i went with uv led strips or something, i hate the pci bracket switch


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> ugh so i opened my uv cathode kit that i ordered from performance-pcs and i thought it would look like the pic below which is on there website, only reason i got it was for the style of the power switch, because i could mount it on the gromet at the top of my case but instead its that crappy pci bracket switch... i kinda wish i went with uv led strips or something, i hate the pci bracket switch


You can unscrew the the switch from the slot bracket









edit: Your pic finally came on my pc (probably my crappy work pc). I can see the pic shows a toggle switch. Definitely contact ppcs.com.


----------



## Michalius

White LEDs are the new UV/Cathodes.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Half the hole is completely unthreaded. See this pic
> I was not the first to discover this, I ordered it a couple hours before opt33's post. Actually, I think rge on XS is opt33 here at ocn (same avatar).


really? He's going to throw that in the trash.?
and no one has a tap and die set. lol
wow.. maybe it's cause i live in a highly industrial
city but everyone i know would look at that and fix
it in 30 seconds..
just make sure you always use plumb tape(teflon)
on the threads after and your good to go.
wait..is it just not threaded or is actual material missing
so there was nothing to thread.?
can't tell from the pic..


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> i'll be getting mine soon
> but i'll be airbrushing mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seems like a great case for watercooling.
> putting an XSPC RX360 on bottom and
> an XSPC RX480 on top.
> will a 360 fit in the bottom if i flip the PSU
> so the output wire are facing up and the power
> cord plug is on the bottom of comp?
> someone stated that a 360 won't fit down there unless modded
> so i thought of flipping the PSU upwards.
> + d5 vario pump and 250mm frozenq res.
> here's what's going in there so far.


Hey LuckyNumber13 - hows that psu configureing coming along ? I saw your pix of the 9000 and the 360 in the bottom with your psu sitting rocketship style.
I've got a 9000 and so far trying to put a 480 rad in the top with inside fans is a fail. So I'm wondering what your plan is, coz that definitely will work, but what to
do with the power plug to the psu ? You'd have to shelf it some so it'd stand clear for the ac plug, then you gotta figure out how to hold the psu in place.

Apart from the Arctic Rain evap cooler, there's 1 9000 case showing a rad installed here at OCN, and that's in the Azza club. And its a 240 or 280 bottom rad.
When cyberpowerpc debuted their 9000 case in February, the vid showed a real bright litup 9000 with what appeared to be a very slim 360 uptop with enermax fans on top of the rad in the case !
WIth a left side mobo, there's only 50mm of head room till the expansion slot cage. A narrower rad may fit with inside fans, thats what Im gonna try when my rx360 gets here this week.

PITA to fit rad to this 'case of death' - i'll be watching for your work.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Hey LuckyNumber13 - hows that psu configureing coming along ? I saw your pix of the 9000 and the 360 in the bottom with your psu sitting rocketship style.
> I've got a 9000 and so far trying to put a 480 rad in the top with inside fans is a fail. So I'm wondering what your plan is, coz that definitely will work, but what to
> do with the power plug to the psu ? You'd have to shelf it some so it'd stand clear for the ac plug, then you gotta figure out how to hold the psu in place.
> Apart from the Arctic Rain evap cooler, there's 1 9000 case showing a rad installed here at OCN, and that's in the Azza club. And its a 240 or 280 bottom rad.
> When cyberpowerpc debuted their 9000 case in February, the vid showed a real bright litup 9000 with what appeared to be a very slim 360 uptop with enermax fans on top of the rad in the case !
> WIth a left side mobo, there's only 50mm of head room till the expansion slot cage. A narrower rad may fit with inside fans, thats what Im gonna try when my rx360 gets here this week.
> PITA to fit rad to this 'case of death' - i'll be watching for your work.


thanx.. yeah the power plug will run underneath ( there
is a gap between bottom where the psu rests and the "actual" bottom of the case which rests
on the desk/ground etc..i will have the power cable running under there to the back.
PSU will be secured down with a few "carefully" placed L brackets
and the RX480 (yeah i'm not going slim ether lol) is going to be on top.
not mounted hanging down but i'm going to build a 2 inch or so added
section to my case on the top which seperates/lifts the top part with power
button and reset etc..to the actual case frame.
all i have to do is drill the same holes that are on my case
to my new "added addition" and it should all fit
my 480 rad will be where the 200mm(i think they
are 200 lol) fans are now and the fans will run underneath
hanging down..i think you probally won't even see the fans
but i'm airbrushing those as well.lol..
check back in a month..


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> White LEDs are the new UV/Cathodes.


White leds can activate UV reactive materials eg. Tubing or dies?


----------



## Saurian

How is the quality of clear Danger Den tubing, and how does it hold up to a coolant such as Mayhems pastel? I think derrick was using some in her...what was that...Norwegian? build.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> White leds can activate UV reactive materials eg. Tubing or dies?


No, I mean as in 'fashion'.

*in best 90s valley girl voice* UV is sooooo 2002.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> thanx.. yeah the power plug will run underneath ( there
> is a gap between bottom where the psu rests and the "actual" bottom of the case which rests
> on the desk/ground etc..i will have the power cable running under there to the back.
> PSU will be secured down with a few "carefully" placed L brackets
> and the RX480 (yeah i'm not going slim ether lol) is going to be on top.
> not mounted hanging down but i'm going to build a 2 inch or so added
> section to my case on the top which seperates/lifts the top part with power
> button and reset etc..to the actual case frame.
> all i have to do is drill the same holes that are on my case
> to my new "added addition" and it should all fit
> my 480 rad will be where the 200mm(i think they
> are 200 lol) fans are now and the fans will run underneath
> hanging down..i think you probally won't even see the fans
> but i'm airbrushing those as well.lol..
> check back in a month..


gulP! good luck wid dat ! yeah, to make it all fit in this case, you gotta come up with some cerious creative craftin








Ima gonna go check out the psu area some more, thanks


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> gulP! good luck wid dat ! yeah, to make it all fit in this case, you gotta come up with some cerious creative craftin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ima gonna go check out the psu area some more, thanks


not sure if you seen these pics or if your only
going by the flow diagram i made. but sorry for repost if you've already seen.
..first and only time reposting everyone..sorry..lol.


----------



## Saurian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*


I think you said earlier you were going to repaint the psu... Will it be black with blue accents where the red is?


----------



## wermad

A little progress











GTX-360s had some residue from the first owner. Nothing serious and they all passed leak testing (including the XT-360) after a thoroughly flush with hot distilled.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> I think you said earlier you were going to repaint the psu... Will it be black with blue accents where the red is?


white with blue accents. my whole theme is blue and white to a ceratin degree.
airbrushing alot of blue/white blends and ghost blue flames on case
and on z77 sabertooth mobo.

Does anyone know if the coating on the Koolance 370 Rev.1.1 CPU block
has any effect on getting it powder coated.?
i believe i seen one person before do it but
i tryed to find again on herer and i could not.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> not sure if you seen these pics or if your only
> going by the flow diagram i made. but sorry for repost if you've already seen.
> ..first and only time reposting everyone..sorry..lol.


Yah, I tracked back your posts, coz there is so little documentation on any 9000 builds, apart from Arctic Rain, which of course isn't the normal stick a rad in the case log.


----------



## Korayyy

My first try at watercooling. Sorry if it is a bad quality I'm not that great at pictures and I took them with my phone.


----------



## xyexz

Looks good man, need to get a gpu in that loop







I think the pictures are fine for phone pics especially.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korayyy*
> 
> My first try at watercooling. Sorry if it is a bad quality I'm not that great at pictures and I took them with my phone.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Definitely one of the cleanest (non-sleeved, especially) builds I've seen in a long time.


----------



## Korayyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Definitely one of the cleanest (non-sleeved, especially) builds I've seen in a long time.


Thanks, I appreciate it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xyexz*
> 
> Looks good man, need to get a gpu in that loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the pictures are fine for phone pics especially.


Haha, I know I'm trying to pick up a 7950 sometime soon. When I do you know it will be in there also! But thank you too.

If it weren't for all of you guys at OCN I wouldn't have attempted to build this thing.


----------



## Socks keep you warm

I wanna join the club!
I know it's not that great, need to buy a angle compression for the GPU inlet


----------



## kaiqi07

Made some changes to the loop and fittings.

1. Replaced my two of m watercooled 7970 with 680 GTX SLI.
2. Gotten 2 X Koolance VID680 blocks for my 680 SLI
3. Gotten 2 X EVGA 680 GTX Backplate
4. Installed a G1/4 Threaded Male QDC on the GPU (allowing easier removal of the GPUs)
5. Replaced my Corsair HX1050 with Seasonic X1250.
6. Sleeved my new X1250 modular cables with the ROG color scheme

*
Bid farewell to my XFX 7970 Crossfire with EK FC7970 Nickel Plexi with EK FC7970 Backplate*


Below are my current pics, sorry for the badly taken photos. Will retake the glamor shots of e the new loop and updated rig.

*
Front View of the Loop.*


*MSI 680 SLI with Koolance VID680 & EVGA Backplate*


----------



## Michalius

Posted this in the Monsoon thread, thought I'd put it in here for folks to see as well.



Compression fittings



The white fittings have a matte finish, which I very much like.



The discs have the same white matte finish as the fittings, both sides are painted, but the circumference is left bare.



The rotary adapters include two black o-rings and this fancy felt packaging. They also have a satin finish as opposed to the matte white.





Assembled, they look quite smashing. I can't wait to get these in my loop!


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Made some changes to the loop and fittings.
> 1. Replaced my two of m watercooled 7970 with 680 GTX SLI.
> 2. Gotten 2 X Koolance VID680 blocks for my 680 SLI
> 3. Gotten 2 X EVGA 680 GTX Backplate
> 4. Installed a G1/4 Threaded Male QDC on the GPU (allowing easier removal of the GPUs)
> 5. Replaced my Corsair HX1050 with Seasonic X1250.
> 6. Sleeved my new X1250 modular cables with the ROG color scheme
> *
> Bid farewell to my XFX 7970 Crossfire with EK FC7970 Nickel Plexi with EK FC7970 Backplate*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are my current pics, sorry for the badly taken photos. Will retake the glamor shots of e the new loop and updated rig.
> *
> Front View of the Loop.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *MSI 680 SLI with Koolance VID680 & EVGA Backplate*


Wow I must say your cables are amazing in your new build I love your gpu cables and of course the water cooling too









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Posted this in the Monsoon thread, thought I'd put it in here for folks to see as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compression fittings
> 
> The white fittings have a matte finish, which I very much like.
> 
> The discs have the same white matte finish as the fittings, both sides are painted, but the circumference is left bare.
> 
> The rotary adapters include two black o-rings and this fancy felt packaging. They also have a satin finish as opposed to the matte white.
> 
> 
> Assembled, they look quite smashing. I can't wait to get these in my loop!


Those fittings







I cant wait to see them in your loop I have been waiting to see someone put them in a rig


----------



## huzzug

hi

i required a help. i have a gtx 580 from gainward (GOOD version) and yeah, thats the problem, i can't find a WB for the PCB ??

could you provide me one or would you suggest me to sell the card and get a new one from, say, EVGA or someone


----------



## JohnnyEars

@Michalius those fittings look fantastic, being a Shinobi owner I've found your build inspiring


----------



## ginger_nuts

People I can't make my mind up.

In side a CM 690II Advanced, with no HDD rack (not even the top two), I plan on putting 2x 240mm rads (one up top, the other down the bottom).

I will cooling my CPU (using a XSPC Rasa block) and GPU's ( with EK universal blocks in serial).

So I need a new pump







, because someone ordered a serial bridge instead of a parallel









Now what would be better or best:

This Koolance combo kit.

or

This Laing pump and this XSPC Res.

My proposed layout is something like this:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Disaster! one of the pumps has literally popped out of the top on my SR2!! Seems Koolance struggle to machine two threads that match,the pump shroud wiggles in the threads and just lets go!

Thanks to ninja reactions and the 3 cups of coffee earlier i whipped out the power before it flooded everything,thank christ i put the pumps in the rad bay underneath or this could of got expensive.

identical issue.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?252376-Koolance-D5-top-issue

Koolance is now on my poop list.

Cant even RMA them as i have painted the mounts and shroud,thankfully Specialtech just offered to sponsor me 2 of the new rev 2 model.

Not the best morning,i was looking forward to some 1440p BF3.........


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Disaster! one of the pumps has literally popped out of the top on my SR2!! Seems Koolance struggle to machine two threads that match,the pump shroud wiggles in the threads and just lets go!
> Thanks to ninja reactions and the 3 cups of coffee earlier i whipped out the power before it flooded everything,thank christ i put the pumps in the rad bay underneath or this could of got expensive.
> identical issue.
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?252376-Koolance-D5-top-issue
> Koolance is now on my poop list.
> Cant even RMA them as i have painted the mounts and shroud,thankfully Specialtech just offered to sponsor me 2 of the new rev 2 model.
> Not the best morning,i was looking forward to some 1440p BF3.........


Major


----------



## mandrix

Ah, where the cover threads into the top? That sucks. Switch to Bitspower if you can, never had any probs with either of mine.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Disaster! one of the pumps has literally popped out of the top on my SR2!! Seems Koolance struggle to machine two threads that match,the pump shroud wiggles in the threads and just lets go!
> 
> Thanks to ninja reactions and the 3 cups of coffee earlier i whipped out the power before it flooded everything,thank christ i put the pumps in the rad bay underneath or this could of got expensive.
> 
> identical issue.
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?252376-Koolance-D5-top-issue
> 
> Koolance is now on my poop list.
> 
> Cant even RMA them as i have painted the mounts and shroud,thankfully Specialtech just offered to sponsor me 2 of the new rev 2 model.
> 
> Not the best morning,i was looking forward to some 1440p BF3.........


Oh suck! Why not use the BP dual top? or 2x EK v2 tops?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A little progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-
> GTX-360s had some residue from the first owner. Nothing serious and they all passed leak testing (including the XT-360) after a thoroughly flush with hot distilled.


When you say you flush with hot distilled, exactly how hot do you get the water?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Disaster! one of the pumps has literally popped out of the top on my SR2!! Seems Koolance struggle to machine two threads that match,the pump shroud wiggles in the threads and just lets go!
> Thanks to ninja reactions and the 3 cups of coffee earlier i whipped out the power before it flooded everything,thank christ i put the pumps in the rad bay underneath or this could of got expensive.
> identical issue.
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?252376-Koolance-D5-top-issue
> Koolance is now on my poop list.
> Cant even RMA them as i have painted the mounts and shroud,thankfully Specialtech just offered to sponsor me 2 of the new rev 2 model.
> Not the best morning,i was looking forward to some 1440p BF3.........


That sucks, sorry man







Good job on the reaction time though.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

You has me nervously checking my BP pump top now...


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A little progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GTX-360s had some residue from the first owner. Nothing serious and they all passed leak testing (including the XT-360) after a thoroughly flush with hot distilled.


Wall-to-wall 360's!
I like how you re-fitted the psu to get the 360 in the base of the Elysium. Was it difficult to do, such as routing the power cable through the case?


----------



## MykaAurora

Mine!! Overkill, I KNOW! HAHA!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Mine!! Overkill, I KNOW! HAHA!


Putting that stock intel cooler in there is Blasphemy! You going to put that piece of crap in a $350 dollar [email protected]%#[email protected]%?#









This is almost as bad as the kid down the block who has 18" rims on his Chevy Sunfire.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> You has me nervously checking my BP pump top now...


Thankfully this is purely a Koolance balls up.


----------



## CerN

Finished my first water cooling build last night


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Made some changes to the loop and fittings.
> 1. Replaced my two of m watercooled 7970 with 680 GTX SLI.
> 2. Gotten 2 X Koolance VID680 blocks for my 680 SLI
> 3. Gotten 2 X EVGA 680 GTX Backplate
> 4. Installed a G1/4 Threaded Male QDC on the GPU (allowing easier removal of the GPUs)
> 5. Replaced my Corsair HX1050 with Seasonic X1250.
> 6. Sleeved my new X1250 modular cables with the ROG color scheme
> *
> Bid farewell to my XFX 7970 Crossfire with EK FC7970 Nickel Plexi with EK FC7970 Backplate*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are my current pics, sorry for the badly taken photos. Will retake the glamor shots of e the new loop and updated rig.
> *
> Front View of the Loop.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *MSI 680 SLI with Koolance VID680 & EVGA Backplate*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job! What a beast rig. The cables look super clean too!


----------



## NewHighScore

Looks great Cern. I think it would look even that much better if you removed the stickers from the front.


----------



## hammerforged

Been redoing my loop, here are some quick shots I took last night. I will update the build log at some point as well.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CerN*
> 
> Finished my first water cooling build last night
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice...looks similar to my switch build


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Putting that stock intel cooler in there is Blasphemy! You going to put that piece of crap in a $350 dollar [email protected]%#[email protected]%?#
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is almost as bad as the kid down the block who has 18" rims on his Chevy Sunfire.


HAHA!! Sorry for that. The purpose is to cool my mosfets. Not going for waterblocks yet. Hehe..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Made some changes to the loop and fittings.
> 1. Replaced my two of m watercooled 7970 with 680 GTX SLI.
> 2. Gotten 2 X Koolance VID680 blocks for my 680 SLI
> 3. Gotten 2 X EVGA 680 GTX Backplate
> 4. Installed a G1/4 Threaded Male QDC on the GPU (allowing easier removal of the GPUs)
> 5. Replaced my Corsair HX1050 with Seasonic X1250.
> 6. Sleeved my new X1250 modular cables with the ROG color scheme
> *
> Bid farewell to my XFX 7970 Crossfire with EK FC7970 Nickel Plexi with EK FC7970 Backplate*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are my current pics, sorry for the badly taken photos. Will retake the glamor shots of e the new loop and updated rig.
> *
> Front View of the Loop.*
> 
> *MSI 680 SLI with Koolance VID680 & EVGA Backplate*


I dont think these are poor pictures by any means.. Nice work..


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Been redoing my loop, here are some quick shots I took last night. I will update the build log at some point as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, what block is that?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Been redoing my loop, here are some quick shots I took last night. I will update the build log at some point as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That Sleeved Tubing is really starting to Grow on me.. Looks Good..


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Nice, what block is that?


Thanks! Koolance CPU 370 rev 1.1

Im pretty impressed with it. Keeps this new Ivy chip in check pretty well. Very high quality block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> That Sleeved Tubing is really starting to Grow on me.. Looks Good..


Im digging it so far. If I could do it all over again though, I would of used barbs. The compression nut fits so tight that its really hard to slide over the sleeving. Takes a lot of work to get it just right.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Thanks! Koolance CPU 370 rev 1.1
> Im pretty impressed with it. Keeps this new Ivy chip in check pretty well. Very high quality block.


Nice. I think I'm going to look for a better block than the Raystorm. Looking at the Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF, The Koolance looks nice though. How does that stack up with the best of them?


----------



## JohnnyEars

I've updated mine a bit, dropped the xspc x20 bayres and upped it to a xspc D5 with rpm sense with a Koolance top and a Phobya Ballancer tube res - as well as a re-route, Masterkleer clear u/v blue hose, alphacool elbows and cheap compressions. (plus Mayhems X1)

Things still to do.. resleeve gpu cable (got TIM on 3 wires), fit 90 deg on pump inlet, change drain hose to black and find some edge clips to secure.
Long term.. loose the RASA cpu block and swap for Koolance CPU 370, loose the RS360 and RS240 and swap for Monstas? (overkill, of course, but where theres's tools there's a way lol)
and of course swap fans for ap-15's or similar for push pull. - and loose the u/v.. I'm already tired of the look, so I was thinking Mayhems white pastel in Masterkleer clear hose.

A quick question.. does anyone know if Durelene is available in UK?

bits:


inside:


drain:


front:


temps after 1 hour of BF3 at 90+ fps with fans on minimum:


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I've updated mine a bit, dropped the xspc x20 bayres and upped it to a xspc D5 with rpm sense with a Koolance top and a Phobya Ballancer tube res - as well as a re-route, Masterkleer clear u/v blue hose, alphacool elbows and cheap compressions. (plus Mayhems X1)
> Things still to do.. resleeve gpu cable (got TIM on 3 wires), fit 90 deg on pump inlet, change drain hose to black and find some edge clips to secure.
> Long term.. loose the RASA cpu block and swap for Koolance CPU 370, loose the RS360 and RS240 and swap for Monstas? (overkill, of course, but where theres's tools there's a way lol)
> and of course swap fans for ap-15's or similar for push pull. - and loose the u/v.. I'm already tired of the look, so I was thinking Mayhems white pastel in Masterkleer clear hose.
> A quick question.. does anyone know if Durelene is available in UK?
> bits:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> inside:
> 
> drain:
> 
> front:
> 
> temps after 1 hour of BF3 at 90+ fps:


No it isnt-try here: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/othertubing.html

Shipping is a bit steep pricewise though-but its worth it.

On the other hand Mick (Mayhem's) said:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I prefer to use clearflex 60, its cheap it works and it does the job just fine. .


So you have another alternative, since you will be using Mayhem's products.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Disaster! one of the pumps has literally popped out of the top on my SR2!! Seems Koolance struggle to machine two threads that match,the pump shroud wiggles in the threads and just lets go!
> Thanks to ninja reactions and the 3 cups of coffee earlier i whipped out the power before it flooded everything,thank christ i put the pumps in the rad bay underneath or this could of got expensive.
> identical issue.
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?252376-Koolance-D5-top-issue
> Koolance is now on my poop list.
> Cant even RMA them as i have painted the mounts and shroud,thankfully Specialtech just offered to sponsor me 2 of the new rev 2 model.
> Not the best morning,i was looking forward to some 1440p BF3.........


I hate to say i told you so, but Koolance has been showing clear signs of a company that has lost touch with it's customer base-you, me, and umpteen others have legitimate RMA issues yet for one reason or another Koolance have fallen short far too many times in this area.

Hey who knows, if any of their reps are reading this thread, you may be contacted, and offered help just to prove me wrong lol!









But then again, i just saw a battleship go cruising past my window powered by fairy dust


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> A quick question.. does anyone know if Durelene is available in UK?


The only place i have seen it is Sidewinder in the US


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> A quick question.. does anyone know if Durelene is available in UK?
> 
> 
> 
> The only place i have seen it is Sidewinder in the US
Click to expand...

They do ship to the UK though.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Thanks guys, clearflex 60 is available here and initial reports are looking great, and it's super cheap









edit: from specialtech forum, it doesn't play well with a lot of manufacturers compression fittings and tends to pull out easily.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Nice. I think I'm going to look for a better block than the Raystorm. Looking at the Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF, The Koolance looks nice though. How does that stack up with the best of them?


Its right up there with the best of them. I really liked that it is less restrictive than the other top blocks yet it maintains excellent temps.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/0_20

I also seems to just be made really well. Nice big thick backplate with a thick silicon motherboard protector.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Its right up there with the best of them. I really liked that it is less restrictive than the other top blocks yet it maintains excellent temps.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/0_20
> I also seems to just be made really well. Nice big thick backplate with a thick silicon motherboard protector.


I was just reading that yesterday, must have missed the Koolance. Yeah I don't want to continue cluttering the gallery here with my problem but I'm at my wits end with my temps not improving after adding 3 more rads and 2 more pumps to just the CPU loop. I'm really starting to eyeball the Raystorm as the culprit now.

When my Caselabs arrives, I'll take everything out and see if it's very concave or something. I don't think it wicks heat well.. Hell the rotary compression on the Raystorm's outlet is even cold to the touch even when [email protected] at nearly 70c. Don't know if it should be, but seems odd.


----------



## Michalius

Raystorm is a helluva block, and many of the sinks listed perform worse in most tests.

Could be the mounting or the TIM.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Raystorm is a helluva block, and many of the sinks listed perform worse in most tests.
> Could be the mounting or the TIM.


Agreed.







Im still rocking my Raystom block from from last October. A great block and it's priced well.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Installed some more LED strips for the sides.. Really helped light up the back of the case..


----------



## randomnerd865

That looks very nice! ^^^ I loved these blacked out builds


----------



## Fonne

Is there any that use 11/8mm fittings / tubing ?

http://www.aquatuning.de/index.php/cat/c661_Silver-nickel.html

Would love to see how tiny that look in a build ...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Mine!! *Overkill*, I KNOW! HAHA!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OCN stands for Overkill clockers network. So you're good.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Been redoing my loop, here are some quick shots I took last night. I will update the build log at some point as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I've updated mine a bit, dropped the xspc x20 bayres and upped it to a xspc D5 with rpm sense with a Koolance top and a Phobya Ballancer tube res - as well as a re-route, Masterkleer clear u/v blue hose, alphacool elbows and cheap compressions. (plus Mayhems X1)
> 
> Things still to do.. resleeve gpu cable (got TIM on 3 wires), fit 90 deg on pump inlet, change drain hose to black and find some edge clips to secure.
> Long term.. loose the RASA cpu block and swap for Koolance CPU 370, loose the RS360 and RS240 and swap for Monstas? (overkill, of course, but where theres's tools there's a way lol)
> and of course swap fans for ap-15's or similar for push pull. - and loose the u/v.. I'm already tired of the look, so I was thinking Mayhems white pastel in Masterkleer clear hose.
> 
> A quick question.. does anyone know if Durelene is available in UK?
> 
> bits:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> inside:
> 
> 
> drain:
> 
> 
> front:
> 
> 
> temps after 1 hour of BF3 at 90+ fps with fans on minimum:


Are you running a dual D5 setup? If so is one of them actually pushing coolant into the drain tube?









I'm sure if you can't get Duralene locally, sidewindercomputers.com could probably get it to you.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Installed some more LED strips for the sides.. Really helped light up the back of the case..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love it. Which LED strips did you add?









~Ceadder


----------



## JohnnyEars

Single D5, the drain is the secondary fill port, I let the tube fill by loosening the plug (just for aesthetics (I'll replace the drain with black tube soon)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love it. Which LED strips did you add?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I got these from OCN member http://www.overclock.net/u/145274/xd3adpoolx

What ever length i needed he just cuts off of a Roll of it..


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Mine!! Overkill, I KNOW! HAHA!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Overkill!


but still that res ruins the overkill title a bit.


----------



## Qu1ckset

presents came in the mail today


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> presents came in the mail today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


an expensive present if i may say so myself







(for its relative size)

btw, did anyone see the new Bitspower MoBo block?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> People I can't make my mind up.
> In side a CM 690II Advanced, with no HDD rack (not even the top two), I plan on putting 2x 240mm rads (one up top, the other down the bottom).
> I will cooling my CPU (using a XSPC Rasa block) and GPU's ( with EK universal blocks in serial).
> So I need a new pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , because someone ordered a serial bridge instead of a parallel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what would be better or best:
> This Koolance combo kit.
> or
> This Laing pump and this XSPC Res.
> My proposed layout is something like this:


I seem to of got missed, by "B Neg's" disaster.

Good to hear it is all good now.

PLEASE!!!!!! help I have only a few hours left to order.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> That looks very nice! ^^^ I loved these blacked out builds


Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I seem to of got missed, by "B Neg's" disaster.
> Good to hear it is all good now.
> PLEASE!!!!!! help I have only a few hours left to order.


I had a similar setup. RS240 on top, RS120 in the rear, and RX240 on the bottom while still retaining the top hdd fixed cage. I used an xspc bay res for a D5. Cooled a 2600k and three 470s.

Give me a sec and I'll find some pics...

edit:



^^^ I pulled one of the 470s in this pic.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Thanks Wermad that is very helpful.

I am still undecided if I want to lay my bottom RX240 down like you show or mod the bottom 5.25" bay and have it standing.

My 1,000w PSU sits a bit longer then the 750w you had, saying that did you have any trouble with your GX750 with three 470's?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Thanks Wermad that is very helpful.
> I am still undecided if I want to lay my bottom RX240 down like you show or mod the bottom 5.25" bay and have it standing.
> My 1,000w PSU sits a bit longer then the 750w you had, saying that did you have any trouble with your GX750 with three 470's?


I was running a silvetsone 1000w which barely cleared and I was lucky it was fully modular. for the triplets. I can't find those pics anymore







. With the gx750w, I could position the rx240 on the rad/fan mounting holes on the case which left a bit of space up front. With the 1kw unit, I had to shove the rad to the very front which made mounting/screwing it to the case a bit of a challenge. It really comes down to the psu length. hit up the 690 club as this setup has been done a ton of times before. I forgot what's the max length of psu to clear for the bottom rad







.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

God I love my BP fittings! I'll never use anything else!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> God I love my BP fittings! I'll never use anything else!


BPs are awesome but too pricey for my taste. I'll stick with the mid and low range stuff. Xspc fittings are a little pita to work with, but once you get the hang of installing and removing them, its not that bad. I do miss my old Alphacool fittings


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had a similar setup. RS240 on top, RS120 in the rear, and RX240 on the bottom while still retaining the top hdd fixed cage. I used an xspc bay res for a D5. Cooled a 2600k and three 470s.
> Give me a sec and I'll find some pics...
> edit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ I pulled one of the 470s in this pic.


I like the purple. It's different.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I like the purple. It's different.


That's an old build







Well, actually that was few builds a few months ago


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's an old build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, actually that was few builds a few months ago


"Wermad"-old, as they say.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Installed some more LED strips for the sides.. Really helped light up the back of the case..


Looks Fantastic


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Looks Fantastic


Please quote one pic and put the rest in "spoiler" please









Some major progress. Though, this is a temporary setup. I'm hoping i can pick up my second gpu soon. I ordered the UN-Design radiator drive bay brackets for the front rad. Might leak test tonight.



^^^Ghetto rigged my pump-res combo. I'm waiting for the missing pump bracket to be delivered. bubble wrap there to quell vibrations when I fire up the 35x.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I seem to of got missed, by "B Neg's" disaster.
> Good to hear it is all good now.
> PLEASE!!!!!! help I have only a few hours left to order.


your psu must be less than 160mm in length


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love it. Which LED strips did you add?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these from OCN member http://www.overclock.net/u/145274/xd3adpoolx
> 
> What ever length i needed he just cuts off of a Roll of it..
Click to expand...

Thanks man, I love my current lighting but I contacted him an will be getting some in the near future hopefully. I got some serious planning to do now. Besides cutting the doors among other things.









~Ceadder


----------



## fakeblood

Tiny Temjin just got a bit more fire power. 2nd GTX580 put in









had a quick game, both GPUs were at about 37c-40c and CPU sitting a little higher at mid 40c

and they all idle at about 33c with fans on "medium" through the fan controller


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Nice! good job.
> Are the fans P&P, push, or just pull-i cant tell from the photos. (im betting P&P-and i was asking cause i am probably going to get a Black 810, and ditch my modded Haf 922, and i wanted to know about the room for radiators-i don't always believe the reviews and videos)


Sorry for the late reply Kkorky,

Yes the fans are push pull and easily fit, If I hadn't of had the RX360 already I would of opted for a 240 or even 2 x 240.

Here is a really great review and answers a lot of questions about the Switch 810.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LHjJ8sPe_8

This case is easily the best I have ever worked with but did have a couple of flaws.


----------



## grazz1984

Does anyone know were i can get a full block for a asus p6t deluxe v1 please?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Tiny Temjin just got a bit more fire power. 2nd GTX580 put in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had a quick game, both GPUs were at about 37c-40c and CPU sitting a little higher at mid 40c
> and they all idle at about 33c with fans on "medium" through the fan controller
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a sweet SFF rig. Love the look.


----------



## -deluxe-

Hi guys, first of all i'am a total noob on water coolig but i will be doing a mod of a SS Raven 3 and will instal water cooling, but i was wondering is it posible to use 2 reservoirs in 1 loop with 1 pump? The pump is a D5 single with EK D5 X-TOP and a EK X-TOP reservoir. So can i add a reservoir with out a pump in the loop?


----------



## siffonen

Changed my loop a little with a new very cheap tubing







Have to build some sort of bracket for smaller rad, so that air can go through it in whole area


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-deluxe-*
> 
> Hi guys, first of all i'am a total noob on water coolig but i will be doing a mod of a SS Raven 3 and will instal water cooling, but i was wondering is it posible to use 2 reservoirs in 1 loop with 1 pump? The pump is a D5 single with EK D5 X-TOP and a EK X-TOP reservoir. So can i add a reservoir with out a pump in the loop?


You can add a second res to the loop with one pump. but keep in mind that it will add more load to the single pump. Any reason you want a Second Res?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks man, I love my current lighting but I contacted him an will be getting some in the near future hopefully. I got some serious planning to do now. Besides cutting the doors among other things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


He has been really helpful to me with lighting and at a Really good Deal as well. Good luck to you..


----------



## Hanoverfist

2 Shots from last Night.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Installed some more LED strips for the sides.. Really helped light up the back of the case..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i love it dude!! the lights really make everything pop


----------



## -deluxe-

That was quick, tnx. Well the reason i want to add a second reservoir is because i'll have shorter tubes. I have read somewhare on the net that lenght of the bube affects the temp, is this true?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New tops pre modding....


----------



## -deluxe-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-deluxe-*
> 
> That was quick, tnx. Well the reason i want to add a second reservoir is because i'll have shorter tubes. I have read somewhare on the net that lenght of the tube affects the temp, is this true?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-deluxe-*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *-deluxe-*
> 
> That was quick, tnx. Well the reason i want to add a second reservoir is because i'll have shorter tubes. I have read somewhare on the net that lenght of the tube affects the temp, is this true?
Click to expand...

Length of tube can affect flow on weaker pumps which in turn affects temperatures. I'm no expert, but I way say on a weaker pump like the MCP35X, you want to stay below 10 ft of tubing and try to keep the reservoir above the pump in terms of gravity.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i love it dude!! the lights really make everything pop


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New tops pre modding....






Gotta love those SP120's! Bought 2, they're amazing fans!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i love it dude!! the lights really make everything pop
Click to expand...











~Ceadder


----------



## -deluxe-

Tnx. Let me refrase, the pump is D5 with EK X-TOP and EK X-TOP reservoir witch will be on the top of the pump top. So how much preasure/flow would i lose if i do add a reservoir? Will it affect my temps to much? The other hardware is: 2x XSPC 240 RAD, Bitspower fittings, Primochill tubing, Heatkiller waterblocks for CPU and GPU (i5-2500K / GTX660Ti). The loop with 2 reservoirs would be: res/D5 pump > CPU block > GPU block > res > 240 RAD > 240 RAD ect..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-deluxe-*
> 
> Tnx. Let me refrase, the pump is D5 with EK X-TOP and EK X-TOP reservoir witch will be on the top of the pump top. So how much preasure/flow would i lose if i do add a reservoir? Will it affect my temps to much? The other hardware is: 2x XSPC 240 RAD, Bitspower fittings, Primochill tubing, Heatkiller waterblocks for CPU and GPU (i5-2500K / GTX660Ti). The loop with 2 reservoirs would be: res/D5 pump > CPU block > GPU block > res > 240 RAD > 240 RAD ect..


Dual D5 setup? You shouldn't lose much if any pressure to dual Res system. Plenty of people run that setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-deluxe-*
> 
> Tnx. Let me refrase, the pump is D5 with EK X-TOP and EK X-TOP reservoir witch will be on the top of the pump top. So how much preasure/flow would i lose if i do add a reservoir? Will it affect my temps to much? The other hardware is: 2x XSPC 240 RAD, Bitspower fittings, Primochill tubing, Heatkiller waterblocks for CPU and GPU (i5-2500K / GTX660Ti). The loop with 2 reservoirs would be: res/D5 pump > CPU block > GPU block > res > 240 RAD > 240 RAD ect..


If you can , try to use just the One Res. Its standard to just use 1 per loop mainly to feed your Pump. I suspect without seeing this build of course that by adding a second res to a 1 pump loop that this will cause some decrease in Performance.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New tops pre modding....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


They look pretty good as is tbh


----------



## -deluxe-

Ok, tnx. Maybe its better to add 1 more 240 RAD instead of a res.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Changed my loop a little with a new very cheap tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to build some sort of bracket for smaller rad, so that air can go through it in whole area
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting placement of the 240 there, does that exhaust a lot of hot air into the case?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 2 Shots from last Night.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking photos







What kind of camera are you using?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great looking photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of camera are you using?


A little Pocket shooter.. Canon S100


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> A little Pocket shooter.. Canon S100


Cool, does good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great looking photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of camera are you using?
> 
> 
> 
> A little Pocket shooter.. Canon S100
Click to expand...

Nice Camera. But for the price everyone wants for it, I'll go with a DSLR Body and pick up a couple lenses. Yeah will cost more but I'll get a whole lot better use of it. Besides I can justify the price difference by pointing out that I'll save a bundle not having to buy film anymore.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice Camera. But for the price everyone wants for it, I'll go with a DSLR Body and pick up a couple lenses. Yeah will cost more but I'll get a whole lot better use of it. Besides I can justify the price difference by pointing out that I'll save a bundle not having to buy film anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


DSLR is the way to go. But i needed something to fit in my pocket for those quick take a pic moments. It serves that purpose well.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Interesting placement of the 240 there, does that exhaust a lot of hot air into the case?


Havent tested it yet, if that happens i can switch the side fan for exhaust, or add a 120mm fan to bottom under the radiator, as soos as i make the bracket for it. It is just temporarily on top of the psu cover


----------



## kaiqi07

Took some pics of my updated rig.
*
Front View of the Current Rig*




*MSI 680GTX Twin FrozrIII SLI with Koolance VID680/EVGA 680GTX Baclplates*


*New Cable Sleeves*


----------



## bamaland

looks like a boiler room lol. very nice mustve cost a fortune for all those fittings


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> DSLR is the way to go. But i needed something to fit in my pocket for those quick take a pic moments. It serves that purpose well.


A lot of these new super phones will replace that S100 pretty quickly








My Galaxy S2 has a decent amount of options to fool around with in the 8MP camera, and records 720p HD video








I've taken all the recent photos of my build with it, except a few I took with my parents rebel.


----------



## Plutonium10

Phone cameras have come a long way but it's all about sensor size! For taking pictures of my rig (if it was done being built, that is) I use an 18MP Canon 7D with 100mm f/2.8L Macro lens and a sturdy tripod. The quality of the pictures is addictive.


----------



## kaiqi07

yea... bought around 170+ different types of fittings.... Used around 100 - 110 of them in this built.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Phone cameras have come a long way but it's all about sensor size! For taking pictures of my rig (if it was done being built, that is) I use an 18MP Canon 7D with 100mm f/2.8L Macro lens and a sturdy tripod. The quality of the pictures is addictive.


When I'm feeling some quality, is when I get my parents rebel out with tripod








Just saying for what Hanover was saying having something in your pocket for a quick shot, new phones do the job fantastically


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any that use 11/8mm fittings / tubing ?
> http://www.aquatuning.de/index.php/cat/c661_Silver-nickel.html
> Would love to see how tiny that look in a build ...


Still hoping to see any using this small tubing







.... 13/10 is pretty small, so want to see if the 11/8 just looks to tiny ...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 2 Shots from last Night.


It's rigs like this that make me want to change my entire color scheme. Such an extrordinarily great job with the lighting.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Took some pics of my updated rig.
> *
> Front View of the Current Rig*
> 
> 
> *MSI 680GTX Twin FrozrIII SLI with Koolance VID680/EVGA 680GTX Baclplates*
> 
> *New Cable Sleeves*


on the 24 pin cable, how did you zp tie that? groups of four is what it looks like? did you use just regular mini zip ties?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I don't know, those S100 shots Hanoverfist took of his rig look outstanding. Wish I could find one for less than $350 though. Might as well get a DSLR at that point...


----------



## wermad

Fired up my temporary setup and I'm loving the low, low temps







. My mb isn't as brilliant as the EVGA Z77







. Its not stable at 4.9 and the 1.325v I used on the evga














. I'm contemplating getting a z77 or going back to x79.

No leaks so far (crossing fingers) XD


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Congrats Werm! Can't believe you have more rad space than me in an Elysium!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> on the 24 pin cable, how did you zp tie that? groups of four is what it looks like? did you use just regular mini zip ties?


Those don't look like zip ties to me. It's probably sewed, known as sewing your sleeving. Kind of like this.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> It's rigs like this that make me want to change my entire color scheme. Such an extrordinarily great job with the lighting.


Yeah, I'm loving the minimalist colour scheme.


----------



## protzman

Haha that guy has a $5000 pc but he ouldnt even afford to wc his graphics cards?

but i dont think that guy above sowed his together, you can tell its plastic-y.

EDIT: also he only has ripjaws haha


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Haha that guy has a $5000 pc but he ouldnt even afford to wc his graphics cards?
> but i dont think that guy above sowed his together, you can tell its plastic-y.
> EDIT: also he only has ripjaws haha


Haha yea I'm not a fan of the video, the guy, or his rig really....just thought it was a good showing of the sewing. Well I said it probably was sewing, wasn't totally sure. Could be zip ties yea, with the end of the connection just at the backside so you can't see it.

And what's wrong with ripjaws?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Congrats Werm! Can't believe you have more rad space than me in an Elysium!










, I could have easily dropped a 420 on top but they're still pricey even at the pre-owned level. The front can swalllow a 480 if you relocate the hdd/ssd.

I'm thinking of switching the xt360 for a gtx 240 or rx240. I need the space for the fan controller tbh, and I have enough rad power for my components.


----------



## protzman

yeah i know thats why i was asking to!
and im not bashing on ripjaws, just the fact that they are budget friendly and his claim that his rig costs $5000.
He coulda atleast got some dominator or something and i'd believe him.

im just saying he's prob stretching the truth about the price of his rig


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> yeah i know thats why i was asking to!
> and im not bashing on ripjaws, just the fact that they are budget friendly and his claim that his rig costs $5000.
> He coulda atleast got some dominator or something and i'd believe him.
> im just saying he's prob stretching the truth about the price of his rig


----------



## ugotd8

Prelim waterblock routing done, whaddya guys think ? Should I move the temp sensor to the other end of the inlet tube ? Anything else ?





EDIT: I realized no reason not to have the 60's both be on the GPU WB


----------



## wermad

What do you guys think? I'm leaning towards just using the Deep blue.

A little disappointed in the Emerald green







. The Deep blue was awesome. Combination of both seems to yield some nice results too. Each sample is using 100ml of distilled water.

From left to right:

Deep Blue (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (1 drop)


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What do you guys think? I'm leaning towards just using the Deep blue.
> A little disappointed in the Emerald green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The Deep blue was awesome. Combination of both seems to yield some nice results too. Each sample is using 100ml of distilled water.
> From left to right:
> Deep Blue (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (1 drop)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The middle one! Damn that looks good.


----------



## wot

1 drop Deep Blue


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fired up my temporary setup and I'm loving the low, low temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My mb isn't as brilliant as the EVGA Z77
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its not stable at 4.9 and the 1.325v I used on the evga
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm contemplating getting a z77 or going back to x79.
> No leaks so far (crossing fingers) XD


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know everyone has their own likes, but from where i am sitting this looks good.







Color change much Inside Tubing?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What do you guys think? I'm leaning towards just using the Deep blue.
> A little disappointed in the Emerald green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The Deep blue was awesome. Combination of both seems to yield some nice results too. Each sample is using 100ml of distilled water.
> From left to right:
> Deep Blue (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (1 drop)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


1 Blue + 1 Green and 1 Blue + 2 Green are the ones that I like. Very unique looking colors.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> A lot of these new super phones will replace that S100 pretty quickly


If they had the Ability to shoot in Raw then yeah i would consider that to be Somewhat of a True Statement. Be funny to see a cell phone on a TRIPOD ...


----------



## InsideJob

I makeshift myself a tripod for my phone every time I take pics of my rig








Like for these most recent pictures today from my new place








http://www.overclock.net/t/1295271/build-log-green-fiend-late-start/50#post_18247396


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I know everyone has their own likes, but from where i am sitting this looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color change much Inside Tubing?


I'm done with clear. The plasticizing issue is just too prevalent. This is mainly for the res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 1 Blue + 1 Green and 1 Blue + 2 Green are the ones that I like. Very unique looking colors.


That's a very interesting color and with a bit of light it should have a more profound look. I was looking forward to the emerald green as my tube is (crapp) uv blue, but I don't mind going with the Deep blue.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> on the 24 pin cable, how did you zp tie that? groups of four is what it looks like? did you use just regular mini zip ties?


I believe it is this or something similar.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_80&products_id=31903


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Those don't look like zip ties to me. It's probably sewed, known as sewing your sleeving. Kind of like this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think I remember him saying they were small zip ties a while back in this thread. I may be thinking of someone else that did something similar though


----------



## wermad

One more simple test in natural light. You can really see how nice the colors are. Making choice much harder *but*, my case is dark inside so the deep blue looks the best with minimal lighting.

Starting from top-left corner (clockwise): Deep Blue (2 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Emerald Green (3 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (2 drops):



The blue really gets the upper hand when using the same amounts. Maybe the Green needs to be a bit more concentrated but that's just imho.


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One more simple test in natural light. You can really see how nice the colors are. Making choice much harder *but*, my case is dark inside so the deep blue looks the best with minimal lighting.
> Starting from top-left corner (clockwise): Deep Blue (2 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Emerald Green (3 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (2 drops):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blue really gets the upper hand when using the same amounts. Maybe the Green needs to be a bit more concentrated but that's just imho.


If you don't mind, what are you using to color the water?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> If you don't mind, what are you using to color the water?


Mayhem's dyes I'm assuming.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One more simple test in natural light. You can really see how nice the colors are. Making choice much harder *but*, my case is dark inside so the deep blue looks the best with minimal lighting.
> Starting from top-left corner (clockwise): Deep Blue (2 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Emerald Green (3 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (2 drops):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blue really gets the upper hand when using the same amounts. Maybe the Green needs to be a bit more concentrated but that's just imho.


2 drops green and 1 drop blue still gets my vote. Something in between the two bottom colors.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Prelim waterblock routing done, whaddya guys think ? Should I move the temp sensor to the other end of the inlet tube ? Anything else ?
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I realized no reason not to have the 60's both be on the GPU WB


That's a really kickass loop design... How are your temps?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> If you don't mind, what are you using to color the water?


Mayhems Deep Blue and Emerald Green dyes








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> 2 drops green and 1 drop blue still gets my vote. Something in between the two bottom colors.


Still a tough choice


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Werm, since you are going with blue I'd suggest pastel berry blue. That color is gorgeous and almost makes me wish I could change my color scheme...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Werm, since you are going with blue I'd suggest pastel berry blue. That color is gorgeous and almost makes me wish I could change my color scheme...


I like pastel but I'm still not convinced to put in my loop. Plus, I'm not spending too much just for dyes. I spent $30 just for these two dye bottles. Last minute buy (and splurge) at ppcs.com. I picked up both just in case if I didn't like one or the other.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I spent $60 for 3 bottles of pastel grape red. Now I need a bottle of red dye to "redden" it up...


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That's a really kickass loop design... How are your temps?


Thanks, don't know yet. Still mocking it up with the new block.

Just cut two holes in my fancy Danger Den acrylic case. Guess we're going to be together forever.


----------



## sebar

Here is a couple pics of my latest creation.
















Specs:
CPU: i5 3570k
RAM: mushkin
OS: win 7 64bit
Motherboard maximus iv gene z gen 3
SSD/Hard Drive: force 3/360 GB Seagate 7200RPM
Power: ax650
Graphics: MSIR6950
Cooling Custom CPU Water Loop
Case: Silverstone PS07B


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice compact WaterCooled Rig Buddy


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, I spent $60 for 3 bottles of pastel grape red. Now I need a bottle of red dye to "redden" it up...


Yeah, little things can get expensive with water cooling







. I'm going with the deep blue but I might add a few drops of green down the road


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Phone cameras have come a long way but it's all about sensor size! For taking pictures of my rig (if it was done being built, that is) I use an 18MP Canon 7D with 100mm f/2.8L Macro lens and a sturdy tripod. The quality of the pictures is addictive.


90% of photography is knowing your camera and knowing your lighting. Camera doesn't mean all that much honestly.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Here is a couple pics of my latest creation.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Work


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I like pastel but I'm still not convinced to put in my loop. Plus, I'm not spending too much just for dyes. I spent $30 just for these two dye bottles. Last minute buy (and splurge) at ppcs.com. I picked up both just in case if I didn't like one or the other.


But pastel blue looks so gooood.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Here is a couple pics of my latest creation.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> CPU: i5 3570k
> RAM: mushkin
> OS: win 7 64bit
> Motherboard maximus iv gene z gen 3
> SSD/Hard Drive: force 3/360 GB Seagate 7200RPM
> Power: ax650
> Graphics: MSIR6950
> Cooling Custom CPU Water Loop
> Case: Silverstone PS07B


Sweet little rig. Those PS07B are cheaper than the TJ08e's, I might concider gettting one?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> But pastel blue looks so gooood.


On someone's else rig, yeah. Mine, ..............hmmmmmmmmmmmm........no







. Plus, I'm no longer concerned with looks so I have no plexi top blocks and I refuse to use clear tube since its most likely going to plasticize. I'm placing function ahead of form this time around


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey Guys Here is a Quick Preview of my Build, i have to do abit more modding to the case but its coming along.

























http://www.overclock.net/t/1293024/build-log-hydro-raven-2-0-rv03


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> On someone's else rig, yeah. Mine, ..............hmmmmmmmmmmmm........no
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Plus, I'm no longer concerned with looks so I have no plexi top blocks and I refuse to use clear tube since its most likely going to plasticize. I'm placing function ahead of form this time around


Why not have both.







just saying.


----------



## oblivion.sky

mine


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> *MSI 680GTX Twin FrozrIII SLI with Koolance VID680/EVGA 680GTX Baclplates*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How does the Koolance waterblock work out with the EVGA backplate? Seems like you didn't use all the screw holes. My XSPC block has the same problem since the EVGA backplate uses countersunk screws while the XSPC block uses M3 screws.


----------



## jellis142

That new Dominator memory is gorgeous!


----------



## KaRLiToS

@oblivion.sky

Why do you have two reservoirs?



By the way, very nice build.


----------



## oblivion.sky

im doing a dual loop soon, but i got the reservoir already so it thought id put it


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> How does the Koolance waterblock work out with the EVGA backplate? Seems like you didn't use all the screw holes. My XSPC block has the same problem since the EVGA backplate uses countersunk screws while the XSPC block uses M3 screws.


I have the same block, you use the supplied stock screws from EVGA and they fit with the block. Only need 1 of the included washers for a spot where the screw doesn't go through the backplate.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats a Beautiful Shot.. Well Done


----------



## LiquidHaus

damn haven't visited the thread in a week and it picks up 30 pages away from me! reading your guys' convos made me laugh though









now to catch up with quotes!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Installed some more LED strips for the sides.. Really helped light up the back of the case..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


GOD that looks good, big fan of your rig man! nice quality photos btw.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One more simple test in natural light. You can really see how nice the colors are. Making choice much harder *but*, my case is dark inside so the deep blue looks the best with minimal lighting.
> Starting from top-left corner (clockwise): Deep Blue (2 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Emerald Green (3 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (2 drops):
> 
> The blue really gets the upper hand when using the same amounts. Maybe the Green needs to be a bit more concentrated but that's just imho.


that 3 drops of emerald green should be a lot darker. that said, i used an entire vial of it on my rig, and it's still not as dark as i wanted it to be








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Here is a couple pics of my latest creation.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


very nice! love seeing others use the enermax tb silence fans








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey Guys Here is a Quick Preview of my Build, i have to do abit more modding to the case but its coming along.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1293024/build-log-hydro-raven-2-0-rv03


saw these pics browsing the "watercooled" tag on instagram haha, lookin' good!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


incredible. this is just beautiful, excellent work man. love the choice of color.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> I have the same block, you use the supplied stock screws from EVGA and they fit with the block. Only need 1 of the included washers for a spot where the screw doesn't go through the backplate.


Thank you for clearing that up. Mine (XSPC), on the other hand, doesn't catch the backplate's screws since it got M3 screw hole which is too big.


----------



## Indulgence

rerouted my tubing from this:










to this:










whaddyathink?


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> reroute my tubing from this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whaddyathink?


wow, both setups seem good but the 2nd pic "feels" like the pump is hanging alot. im sure its secure though! are you going to cover it with the shroud again?

oh.. and your i5-2500k is a dream chip! 4.7ghz on 1.25 volts?? super silicon lottery win!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Why not have both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just saying.










. I'm on a budget so bling is taking a backseat this time around








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Beautiful build but I notice the clouding. That's why I refuse to use clear tube. It ruins such a beautiful thing. Awesome job non-the less mate. Did you sleeved the cables yourself?


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> wow, both setups seem good but the 2nd pic "feels" like the pump is hanging alot. im sure its secure though! are you going to cover it with the shroud again?
> oh.. and your i5-2500k is a dream chip! 4.7ghz on 1.25 volts?? super silicon lottery win!


thanks samoth







well, what you said about the pump is correct, though, with the pressure from the tubings at the bottom and the top rads, the res and the pump are well secured









and yes, i think im lucky enough to have this chip, haven't OC this to 5ghz+ yet, but i'm having a good feeling that it can very well handle low voltage and good temps


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Nice Work


Thanks friend, next time I will have to build a goliath like yours.







I love your Elysium Black Sniper Build.


----------



## oblivion.sky

thanks guys! much appreciated, im currently in the process of making a dual loop andnim using pastel dye so the clouding problem should be gone, and about the pau sleeving, yes i did that myself, mind you, it was PITA, but it was well worth it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Phone cameras have come a long way but it's all about sensor size! For taking pictures of my rig (if it was done being built, that is) I use an 18MP Canon 7D with 100mm f/2.8L Macro lens and a sturdy tripod. The quality of the pictures is addictive.
> 
> 
> 
> 90% of photography is knowing your camera and knowing your lighting. Camera doesn't mean all that much honestly.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Although my pics are lacking due to the quality of the webcam I use even when I have the software set for 1080p. Pics look great when I capture them but after posting them here they come across grainy. I'm thinking that my light source is overpowering my exposure but I don't see an alternative to correct this since I've tried moving my source of light around my subject. I'm still experimenting but I've had this webbie for 2 years now and other than this it's not too bad.

I'd rather have a DSLR for sharper clarity but I can make due for the time being until I can find a solid buy when I have the funds at my disposal.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> But pastel blue looks so gooood.
> 
> 
> 
> On someone's else rig, yeah. Mine, ..............hmmmmmmmmmmmm........no
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Plus, I'm no longer concerned with looks so I have no plexi top blocks and I refuse to use clear tube since its most likely going to plasticize. I'm placing function ahead of form this time around
Click to expand...

Not sure the need for dye given the lack of clear tubing. Is this strictly to give your Res a KoolAid pitcher feel?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> reroute my tubing from this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whaddyathink?










Meh I'd rather it were still setup the 1st way.







...

J/K! Second way is much much much cleaner an I bet much quieter since the pump is no longer on the Radiator. Such AWESOMESAUCE!









~Ceadder


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meh I'd rather it were still setup the 1st way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> J/K! Second way is much much much cleaner an I bet much quieter since the pump is no longer on the Radiator. Such AWESOMESAUCE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


you got me on the 1st sentence! i was like







while reading it!









yup, inside is dead silent compared to the previous one







. thank you for appreciating!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> On someone's else rig, yeah. Mine, ..............hmmmmmmmmmmmm........no
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Plus, I'm no longer concerned with looks so I have no plexi top blocks and I refuse to use clear tube since its most likely going to plasticize. I'm placing function ahead of form this time around


Welcome to sanity Wermad.
All the extra crap is not worth it,im a Distilled guy,always have been,always will be....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Those bleed tubes you have in your res? they cause quite bad restriction on the inlet to pumps,they really are for return flow back in to the res from a top inlet.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meh I'd rather it were still setup the 1st way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> J/K! Second way is much much much cleaner an I bet much quieter since the pump is no longer on the Radiator. Such AWESOMESAUCE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you got me on the 1st sentence! i was like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> while reading it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yup, inside is dead silent compared to the previous one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . thank you for appreciating!
Click to expand...

Ain't I a stinker.









One question though. Are you going for a complete positive fan pressure system? Is that why the fans on the 240 are blowing out instead of drawing cool air into the Radiator? If not I would flip those badboys.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fired up my temporary setup and I'm loving the low, low temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My mb isn't as brilliant as the EVGA Z77
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its not stable at 4.9 and the 1.325v I used on the evga
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . *I'm contemplating getting a z77 or going back to x79.*
> 
> No leaks so far (crossing fingers) XD












Anyone have dimensions of XSPX's RayStorm GPU block? Or have a block and would be willing to take somefor me?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have dimensions of XSPX's RayStorm GPU block? Or have a block and would be willing to take somefor me?


The copper base is 56x56x3mm. I don't own a raystorm anymore so this is what I came up with in google. I can't find the full dimensions though. Anyways, hope this helps.


----------



## derickwm

Unfortunately I'm looking for the mounting dimensions, thanks though.


----------



## sate200

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/guru3d_rig_of_the_month_september_2012.html

Game of rig month september was to me!!!


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/guru3d_rig_of_the_month_september_2012.html
> Game of rig month september was to me!!!


Congrats. System looks great.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unfortunately I'm looking for the mounting dimensions, thanks though.


http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/raystorm-gpu.pdf
it states dimensions at top left corner of pdf file.
i think this is what you were looking for?
if not..sorry lol.
also i think i read somewhere that 1/2" fittings
were not compatible with it so something to look
into for sure.


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> rerouted my tubing from this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whaddyathink?


that is EXACTLY what mine is going to looks like







after I upgrade it. thanks for sharing, nice actually seeing it, I can visualise it better now


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Still hoping to see any using this small tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... 13/10 is pretty small, so want to see if the 11/8 just looks to tiny ...


I hated the fact I couldn't find a single picture of 8/11 in use before ordering (from aquatuning). So here's for you:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom to top rad tubing is too short in my opinion, I imagined it a bit looser and the reservoir to pump one wasn't supposed to touch that fitting. But since I'll be changing my rig sooner or later I figured I wouldn't bother fixing those right now and they could wait.
> I've cut a 60x60mm square off my (very) old Razer Goliathus Control mousemat (never by that, it's terrible except as an anti vibration, Razer's Scarab mat is amazing though).
> The SSD is right behind the HDD sort of hanging mid air, none are attached our anything, can't say I hear the HDD's vibrations more than the GPU's though so I'll leave them that way for the time being.
> Mayhems Blue Berry 250Ml concentrate + 750Ml DI water + 10Ml Mayhems Blue Dye btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and 8mm ID / 11mm OD clearflex 60 tubing.


----------



## HF Venom

@steelkevin you routed the tubing really weird, lots of other ways to do it that would look much cleaner and it probably would be better for the loop to. less tubing =less restriction

just my opinion though


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unfortunately I'm looking for the mounting dimensions, thanks though.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/raystorm-gpu.pdf
> it states dimensions at top left corner of pdf file.
> i think this is what you were looking for?
> if not..sorry lol.
> also i think i read somewhere that 1/2" fittings
> were not compatible with it so something to look
> into for sure.
Click to expand...

Sweet. I believe that is what I am looking for


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Front panel nearly done...



Now im wondering whether to downlight from the top with another LED strip.....


----------



## tsm106

Pretty cool looking B. It reminds me of Tron.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> @steelkevin you routed the tubing really weird, lots of other ways to do it that would look much cleaner and it probably would be better for the loop to. less tubing =less restriction
> just my opinion though


I'm all ears but honestly I spent weeks planning and measuring stuff. When I finally got everything I realized my res wasn't going straight into my pump and had a bit of a struggle getting the loop running properly. Everything was in that very same position though I just rerouted most of the tubing.

I'm completely new to watercooling so I wouldn't be surprised if you've got anything better to suggest.

EDIT: I ran Prime95 for 12Hours a day or two ago and max Temps were 54/52/52/54 (°C). All fans on minimum, one Noctua not spinning because the Phobya Y cable was somehow missing a wire (sigh... contacted support yesterday though, they've sent me another one that should be here sometime Monday). Since I've put my CPU under water the GPU temps have gone from 60/65 in game up to 75°. I don't mind since I'm not keeping the GPU and I think that bottom rad blowing hot air into the case is the reason for those high GPU temps.

Btw, I'm selling all that POS and keeping the loop, SSD and case only (well I might keep the PSU if I can get that rig to run with a cheap one). Selling it 650€ in a Mini Define. Then I'll have to work a bit to make enough money to get a complete PC with a watercooled GPU


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*










I got the mb to play nice. I'm @ 4.8 w/ 1350Mv. I can do 4.9 but the temps jump quite a bit due to more voltage (1385Mv). I need a good clock for the four gpu(s). I keep speedstep on and it helps a ton. No need to idle at these high clocks. I shopped around and I'm still not fully convinced to change yet. I'm eying the Z77 ws or a x79 WS for a later upgrade. Was ready to pull the trigger on a RIVF but it looked too suspicious (possible bent pins) but I passed. My 2700k is still pretty darn good, so I'll keep it for now









Last parts come in today but 2nd gpu still a while away. Had to order more tube since I needed some







.


----------



## hammerforged

Not sure if anyone else has seen this or how new it actually is but check it out:

**New** Plasticizer Free Tygon E1000 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD Ultra Soft Vinyl Tubing # ADK00038
Quote:


> Product Description & Info
> New Tygon E1000 is the replacement for R1000. E1000 is a plasticizer free tubing (non-DEHP) formulation.
> Extremely flexible, Tygon® E1000 Ultra-Soft Tubing is the solution to applications requiring maximum drapeability and kink resistance. Even under laboratory set-ups with abrupt radius curves and multiple direction changes, Tygon® Ultra-Soft Tubing resists twisting and collapse - common problems when using other tubing products. Tygon® Ultra-Soft Tubing stays flexible at temperatures as low as -100°F (-73°C ) . Its smooth bore facilitates easy cleaning and helps prevent possible buildup.


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty1id3odulso.html


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Not sure if anyone else has seen this or how new it actually is but check it out:
> **New** Plasticizer Free Tygon E1000 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD Ultra Soft Vinyl Tubing # ADK00038
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty1id3odulso.html


Anyone test it?


----------



## Egameman

new mobo and 240 rad


----------



## mandrix

Wonder if anyone has been through the US Plastics catalog and tried any tubing they list.....and they have a LOT listed. Probably all hit or miss but a lot of tygon and food grade stuff.
Wish I knew what kind of tubing we used when I was running the IC's before I retired. (Ion chromatography). Was really small but surely whatever formulation it was had to be resistant to leeching, I would think. Was expensive, like most laboratory stuff.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the mb to play nice. I'm @ 4.8 w/ 1350Mv. I can do 4.9 but the temps jump quite a bit due to more voltage (1385Mv). I need a good clock for the four gpu(s). I keep speedstep on and it helps a ton. No need to idle at these high clocks. I shopped around and I'm still not fully convinced to change yet. I'm eying the Z77 ws or a x79 WS for a later upgrade. Was ready to pull the trigger on a RIVF but it looked too suspicious (possible bent pins) but I passed. My 2700k is still pretty darn good, so I'll keep it for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last parts come in today but 2nd gpu still a while away. Had to order more tube since I needed some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

I've heard some WS boards aren't the greatest OC'ers. Could have been a bad chip though. I think it's time to step up your game and try a 2P board says I


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I've heard some WS boards aren't the greatest OC'ers. Could have been a bad chip though. I think it's time to step up your game and try a 2P board says I


Need something with blue or green. The g3 sniper looks tempting


----------



## derickwm

The Z9PE-D8 is blue







so is skulltrail. Want me throw some pics of both of mine to add to the temptation









The G3 Sniper is a very solid board though.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> saw these pics browsing the "watercooled" tag on instagram haha, lookin' good!


Ya man im such a instagram whore lol

just finished modding my case, my second rad fits nice and snug lol


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the mb to play nice. I'm @ 4.8 w/ 1350Mv. I can do 4.9 but the temps jump quite a bit due to more voltage (1385Mv). I need a good clock for the four gpu(s). I keep speedstep on and it helps a ton. No need to idle at these high clocks. I shopped around and I'm still not fully convinced to change yet. I'm eying the Z77 ws or a x79 WS for a later upgrade. Was ready to pull the trigger on a RIVF but it looked too suspicious (possible bent pins) but I passed. My 2700k is still pretty darn good, so I'll keep it for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last parts come in today but 2nd gpu still a while away. Had to order more tube since I needed some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


As in a pump top bracket ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The Z9PE-D8 is blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so is skulltrail. Want me throw some pics of both of mine to add to the temptation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The G3 Sniper is a very solid board though.


The evga was a great overclocker but it was too buggy. I'm also keeping the door open for 3-way sli/xfire so I need a board that can handle that too.

I don't fold (














) or do i run anything needed a dual cpu mb. Just some gaming in Surround/Eyefinity.

I swore i got better temps with my old HF compared to the HD







. Could be the rads. This is the first time I'm using high fin density rads.


----------



## derickwm

Ah well you could always start folding









I have to admit though I do like the EVGA branded hydro copper block for their X79 boards. Unfortunately things just haven't been the same since the guy who did the SR-2 went to Asus









Asus boards are great but I wish their RMA service matched those of EVGA, Gigabyte, etc.

Get the G3 Sniper, a few 670s and call it a day. IMO currently the best gaming setup is Z77/2700k and some 670s. I believe the FTW model has its voltage unlocked finally.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ah well you could always start folding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to admit though I do like the EVGA branded hydro copper block for their X79 boards. Unfortunately things just haven't been the same since the guy who did the SR-2 went to Asus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus boards are great but I wish their RMA service matched those of EVGA, Gigabyte, etc.
> Get the G3 Sniper, a few 670s and call it a day. IMO currently the best gaming setup is Z77/2700k and some 670s. I believe the FTW model has its voltage unlocked finally.


I would actually skip the 6xx series. I like the many changes they made but I feel its not a complete package. Amd with their higher vram and lower cost would be a better choice. Three Sapphire 7970 6gb would be nice


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I want a third 7970 in my rig but I won't be able to find another nickel-plexi FC7970...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I want a third 7970 in my rig but I won't be able to find another nickel-plexi FC7970...


First world problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ah well you could always start folding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to admit though I do like the EVGA branded hydro copper block for their X79 boards. Unfortunately things just haven't been the same since the guy who did the SR-2 went to Asus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus boards are great but I wish their RMA service matched those of EVGA, Gigabyte, etc.
> Get the G3 Sniper, a few 670s and call it a day. IMO currently the best gaming setup is Z77/2700k and some 670s. I believe the FTW model has its voltage unlocked finally.
> 
> 
> 
> I would actually skip the 6xx series. I like the many changes they made but I feel its not a complete package. Amd with their higher vram and lower cost would be a better choice. Three Sapphire 7970 6gb would be nice
Click to expand...

Those would be in my rig for sure if some blocks came out. As well as the price to come down a little. $600 is a lot of cash for a single gpu card imo. I paid just over $700 for the quad fire setup I have coming. May not have the VRAM but performance should be better and of course most importantly it'll look damn cool


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> First world problems.
> Those would be in my rig for sure if some blocks came out. As well as the price to come down a little. $600 is a lot of cash for a single gpu card imo. I paid just over $700 for the quad fire setup I have coming. May not have the VRAM but performance should be better and of course most importantly it'll look damn cool


Fo sho









I like my quad setup since I only need two blocks







. Its last gen so they're cheaper though harder to find.

three 7970 3gb would be sweet. Slap on some HK blocks and backplates and time to tear up Eyefinity


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'd really like to score two 680 Lightnings with some HK blocks if they would make them...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'd really like to score two 680 Lightnings with some HK blocks if they would make them...


two, ??? this is ocn, go ttri/quad or go home
















One thing i want to applaud to EK is that they continue to support multiple components and not just stick with the mainstream stuff. I was surprised they made blocks for both Lightnings this time around.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love that 680 Lightning so much I'm tempted to get them and the crop circle blocks even though I can't stand the look of them...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love that 680 Lightning so much I'm tempted to get them and the crop circle blocks even though I can't stand the look of them...


lol, just don't place your mb in reverse atx









I swear, that effort and the resources could have gone to something better or reducing overall manufacturing costs (and thus retail msrp).


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Unfortunately I have a TJ11 which shows off the GPU blocks prominently...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Unfortunately I have a TJ11 which shows off the GPU blocks prominently...


Thought you could reverse the mb tray on the TJ11?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I didn't know you could do that. Not that I really would want to. It is a badass case though...


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Unfortunately I have a TJ11 which shows off the GPU blocks prominently...


i'll take it off your hands for ya


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol! My 2600K rig is in a 600T!


----------



## derickwm

Well speak of the devil. My quad fire setup just showed up









My oh my they are perty.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I didn't know you could do that. Not that I really would want to. It is a badass case though...


Looks like its perpendicular. Nm then







I was thinking of the TJ07.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well speak of the devil. My quad fire setup just showed up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My oh my they are perty.


Which quad setup?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys i completed my build, but have a have a quick question, in the second and third pic, do you think that tube will ever get free of the compression fitting?? thats the best i could get it, it was alot tighter then expected in this case!


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys i completed my build, but have a have a quick question, in the second and third pic, do you think that tube will ever get free of the compression fitting?? thats the best i could get it, it was alot tighter then expected in this case!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks iffy, but I don't think so. If you wanted to be safe maybe get a 45 or 60 degree compression fiting?

EDIT: I see the res is in the way







Maybe also get an extender or just get an extender and no angled fitting


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys i completed my build, but have a have a quick question, in the second and third pic, do you think that tube will ever get free of the compression fitting?? thats the best i could get it, it was alot tighter then expected in this case!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


well it look kinda safe for now since it's not leaking.. but over time with all that warm water runing in the loop the tube my might shrink sum so that might cause the tube to come loose and start a leak... i would fix it if you can just to be on the sate side....rig look good though good job bud


----------



## wermad

Its good as long as you have some slack. Its when the run its close to short then you worry about the tube popping out of place. Just make sure the end of the tube is seated flush on the fitting and tighten down the top as best as you can by hand.


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> that is EXACTLY what mine is going to looks like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after I upgrade it. thanks for sharing, nice actually seeing it, I can visualise it better now


no problem. glad i could be of help, somehow.







after the upgrade, show us what you've got, will you?







see you around.

another shot..










.. and im gone.


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys i completed my build, but have a have a quick question, in the second and third pic, do you think that tube will ever get free of the compression fitting?? thats the best i could get it, it was alot tighter then expected in this case!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The tube is too long, just cut it.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its good as long as you have some slack. Its when the run its close to short then you worry about the tube popping out of place. Just make sure the end of the tube is seated flush on the fitting and tighten down the top as best as you can by hand.


In going to try and force it back down and then tighten it as much as possible, but tmr I will do it, way to tired right now, so many things did go well forst time around especially the crappy sleeved cable ex tenders, wires kept coming out, so I removed them


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> rerouted my tubing from this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whaddyathink?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> no problem. glad i could be of help, somehow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after the upgrade, show us what you've got, will you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see you around.
> another shot..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. and im gone.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> The tube is too long, just cut it.


Its fine. Its not excessively long, so it will be ok. You want to achieve fluid bends to avoid kinks. The bend is fine, just make sure the tube's end is seated and secured properly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> In going to try and force it back down and then tighten it as much as possible, but tmr I will do it, way to tired right now, so many things did go well forst time around especially the crappy sleeved cable ex tenders, wires kept coming out, so I removed them


Awesome


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> The tube is too long, just cut it.


+1

Looks to me like 3/8" to 1/2" shorter should do the trick. Maybe more, hard to judge from the pic. No way that tubing is flush with the barb base (based on the closeup pic),

Another option would be to rotate the rotary on the other end of that tube out towards the outside of the case. Might take up a little slack that way. Maybe not enough to compensate for the tube being too long but it's worth a shot.

I wouldn't call it done with a tube on a fitting like that. Just sayin'










But then again, I've been working on my new loop since 8 this morning and been bleeding it for the last two hours, so I guess I'm a bit paranoid.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> no problem. glad i could be of help, somehow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after the upgrade, show us what you've got, will you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see you around.
> another shot..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. and im gone.


Looks amazing but you need a pump top and mod kit stat!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Better?


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Money!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looks amazing but you need a pump top and mod kit stat!


I agree!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Better?


Oh yea, definitely


----------



## Qu1ckset

Really regretting buying this Scythe KAZE MASTER fan controller, the things on crack, every fan rpm on the display keeps jumping from 1850rpms down to 850 then back to 1850 then down to 1230, i checked the fans and they don't seem to be changing speeds like the display is saying there doing, and **** i had to turn off the alarm it would not shut up!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Really regretting buying this Scythe KAZE MASTER fan controller, the things on crack, every fan rpm on the display keeps jumping from 1850rpms down to 850 then back to 1850 then down to 1230, i checked the fans and they don't seem to be changing speeds like the display is saying there doing, and **** i had to turn off the alarm it would not shut up!


I hate that alarm. First thing i did when i bought a second one is I turned it off.

Are you daisy-chaining the fans on each channel? Or is each fan on its own channel? I daisy chained them and got erratic fan rpm readings. On single fans it was pretty stable.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I hate that alarm. First thing i did when i bought a second one is I turned it off.
> Are you daisy-chaining the fans on each channel? Or is each fan on its own channel? I daisy chained them and got erratic fan rpm readings. On single fans it was pretty stable.


ya i got 2fans per channel , sucks cuz i love the looks of it , and i was limited to what controllers i could use because alot of the other ones were to deep


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> ya i got 2fans per channel , sucks cuz i love the looks of it , and i was limited to what controllers i could use because alot of the other ones were to deep


That's why i ended up getting a second


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> ya i got 2fans per channel , sucks cuz i love the looks of it , and i was limited to what controllers i could use because alot of the other ones were to deep


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's why i ended up getting a second


Perhaps cutting one of the yellow RPM leads on one of the two fans you have daisy chained might solve the problem. Sounds like that controller is multiplying the readings it's getting.

Unless of course we're talking PWM, then nevermind.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> +1
> Looks to me like 3/8" to 1/2" shorter should do the trick. Maybe more, hard to judge from the pic. No way that tubing is flush with the barb base (based on the closeup pic),
> Another option would be to rotate the rotary on the other end of that tube out towards the outside of the case. Might take up a little slack that way. Maybe not enough to compensate for the tube being too long but it's worth a shot.
> I wouldn't call it done with a tube on a fitting like that. Just sayin'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then again, I've been working on my new loop since 8 this morning and been bleeding it for the last two hours, so I guess I'm a bit paranoid.


yeah haha shoot i was about to say, i hope to god he hadn't powered it up yet!


----------



## Hydrored

Wow am I glad I measured 10 times before I ordered the card! I threw this together for BOINCERS Gone Bonkers. The 690 water-block arrived damaged and a new one will be here next week and I can finish the sleeving. Also I cut and fitted the plexi to hide all the ugly parts-


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> yeah haha shoot i was about to say, i hope to god he hadn't powered it up yet!


i fired it up alrite, it wasn't going any where soon, it took abit of force to get it off anyways








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydrored*
> 
> Wow am I glad I measured 10 times before I ordered the card! I threw this together for BOINCERS Gone Bonkers. The 690 water-block arrived damaged and a new one will be here next week and I can finish the sleeving. Also I cut and fitted the plexi to hide all the ugly parts-
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks Good!, nothing beats the 90degree flipped mobos silverstone has in my opinion , to bad they got rid of it for the rv04/ft04


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Perhaps cutting one of the yellow RPM leads on one of the two fans you have daisy chained might solve the problem. Sounds like that controller is multiplying the readings it's getting.
> Unless of course we're talking PWM, then nevermind.


doesn't bother me, as long as its working!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Omg why can't anything be perfect! I just looked into my computer after I shut it down and noticed two fans spinning in opposite directions, so obviously one of the ones I bought off a ocn memeber is messed up, like how the heck to you get it to spin backwards!

And it just had to be one of the hardest fans to get at!


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Here's some more recent pictures of my loop,


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Omg why can't anything be perfect! I just looked into my computer after I shut it down and noticed two fans spinning in opposite directions, so obviously one of the ones I bought off a ocn memeber is messed up, like how the heck to you get it to spin backwards!
> And it just had to be one of the hardest fans to get at!


Umm I could be wrong, but if you switch the positive and negative wires around would it do that?


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> Here's some more recent pictures of my loop,


clean setup! and cute pet too


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> clean setup! and cute pet too


Thanks!


----------



## golfergolfer

Hi everyone just a quick question is there a BIG difference between a 240mm rad and a 280mm rad? I plan on cooling a i5 2500k and a GTX 680. Yes I know it is not quite enough rad both ways but between the two is it worth another $70? (have a 240 extra $ would be for the 280) Thanks for your help


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hi everyone just a quick question is there a BIG difference between a 240mm rad and a 280mm rad? I plan on cooling a i5 2500k and a GTX 680. Yes I know it is not quite enough rad both ways but between the two is it worth another $70? (have a 240 extra $ would be for the 280) Thanks for your help


Rads can be designed the same, but the fan that you'll use can make the difference. Not sure if I understand your dillema; do you have a 240 and want to add another 240 or a 280?


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Rads can be designed the same, but the fan that you'll use can make the difference. Not sure if I understand your dillema; do you have a 240 and want to add another 240 or a 280?


That is very true I will be using a very low rpm fan (around 800) (possibly two of these) As for the dillema I have, I am planning a new SFF rig and at the moment I have a 240mm rad but someone had suggested that I use a 280mm rad and I was just wondering if the difference between the two was great enough that I should spend and extra $70 or so to buy a new rad and just not use the 240. in the end I only have room for one. hope this clears it up?

EDIT: forgot link -.- here it is ----> Phanteks (would be using slowest speed)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> That is very true I will be using a very low rpm fan (around 800) (possibly two of these) As for the dillema I have, I am planning a new SFF rig and at the moment I have a 240mm rad but someone had suggested that I use a 280mm rad and I was just wondering if the difference between the two was great enough that I should spend and extra $70 or so to buy a new rad and just not use the 240. in the end I only have room for one. hope this clears it up?
> EDIT: forgot link -.- here it is ----> Phanteks (would be using slowest speed)


Check out the Corsair fans. I'm hearing nothing but great things about them. If you have a 240, just add another 240 or a 120. Both your gpu and cpu are not heat monsters so you can get it done with a single 240 and some great fans. Expect some respectable temps though.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Check out the Corsair fans. I'm hearing nothing but great things about them. If you have a 240, just add another 240 or a 120. Both your gpu and cpu are not heat monsters so you can get it done with a single 240 and some great fans. Expect some respectable temps though.


Ok will so so a 240 should be enough for a 2500k and a GTX 680 gpu being overclocked? yes higher temps are expected as right now I am running stock 2500k and oced GTX 560Ti and when both are under stress my temps are 57, 50 respectively. would I be expecting up to the 70s perhaps?


----------



## Wolfgang




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Ok will so so a 240 should be enough for a 2500k and a GTX 680 gpu being overclocked? yes higher temps are expected as right now I am running stock 2500k and oced GTX 560Ti and when both are under stress my temps are 57, 50 respectively. would I be expecting up to the 70s perhaps?


What's your cpu clock? if you're going to run one 240 for now, keep your 2500k <4.5 and keep the gpu stock. Add some more rad and then start upping your clocks.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's your cpu clock? if you're going to run one 240 for now, keep your 2500k <4.5 and keep the gpu stock. Add some more rad and then start upping your clocks.


CPU is at 3.7ghz
GPU is at 975/2200 over the base of 850/2052

while both under load

CPU = 57 degrees
GPU = 50 degrees

Using only 240mm rad. Soon to have 680 over clocked with CPU at same clock all on 240mm rad. Maybe 280mm rad if someone can persuade me otherwise. NOTE: can only use one or the other.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> Here's some more recent pictures of my loop,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


good stuff! i love seeing nice clean builds and fuzzy little critters!









do you plan on putting that 590 underwater?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> CPU is at 3.7ghz
> GPU is at 975/2200 over the base of 850/2052
> while both under load
> CPU = 57 degrees
> GPU = 50 degrees
> Using only 240mm rad. Soon to have 680 over clocked with CPU at same clock all on 240mm rad. Maybe 280mm rad if someone can persuade me otherwise. NOTE: can only use one or the other.


They're respectable but there's room for improvement. My 2700k @ 4.9 will max out ~60c but I'm running three 360s. I'm sure a second 240 or 280 will bring them down more









btw, which rad are you using? A thick one will provide you with some robust cooling while a thin one will be ok.


----------



## steelkevin

I was quite happy with my temps but I was thinking a bit this morning and thought to myself that although I found them great (I come from a stock cooler), 2 280mm rads for the CPU alone probably shouldn't give such temps.

My max temps are 54/52/52/54 (ran Prime95 for 12hours once and a couple 2/5Hours, the temps were always the same @max) and idle temps are around 30 but lately it's been cold (13°C right now, my room's probably a degree or two higher only, I wouldn't say it's any hotter than 18°) my min Temps right now are 23/21/26/22 (but it's staying at 25/23/27/23°).
I've got an i7-860 @stock.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some more recent pictures of my loop,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WOW FACTOR! SUPER-LIKE how you built it..


----------



## kcuestag

I want to see more WC Loops in the Silverstone Raven RV02B-W!



I added the fan filters below the case using some velcro, they fit great, so I didn't need to cut away the HDD bays to fit the filters.









I am amazed at how cool it runs considering I only have 3 push fans and they're all running at a speed of ~800rpm.


----------



## mandrix

My UT60's came in for the new build. First time I've seen a 480 up close. Along side is my RX240 for comparison. The UT60's will be going in the SM8 pedestal. I chose these because of the multiple ports since I've never plumbed any out of a pedestal before and thought having more than two ports might be handy. I like the finish on these things and the single port at the opposite end could be good for a drain line since they will be at the very bottom of the rig.


----------



## Fonne

Is bitspower the only company that makes acrylic fittings ?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I want to see more WC Loops in the Silverstone Raven RV02B-W!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the fan filters below the case using some velcro, they fit great, so I didn't need to cut away the HDD bays to fit the filters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am amazed at how cool it runs considering I only have 3 push fans and they're all running at a speed of ~800rpm.


Nice, I still havan't mounted any filters to my fans. I figured I'd have to tear it down anyways to add a couple of these, or these to clean the tubes running behind the mobo. I have my fan speeds at 480 and I'm still getting awesome temps.

For some reason, I can't stand that part of my loop.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Just get you some 90-degree dual rotary fittings and shorten that run up. Would look much cleaner...


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice, I still havan't mounted any filters to my fans. I figured I'd have to tear it down anyways to add a couple of these, or these to clean the tubes running behind the mobo. I have my fan speeds at 480 and I'm still getting awesome temps.
> 
> For some reason, I can't stand that part of my loop.


grab something like this.
K -3/8" ID Tubing 90 Degree , No Spill, Quick Disconnect "F"
then another normal 90 degree for the bottom (also grab one of
those wire organizer clips (circular ones of coarse)
and attach to bottom of case so that will also secure the 90
degree fitting on bottom of case down tight.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Front panel nearly done...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now im wondering whether to downlight from the top with another LED strip.....


Very clean.. I like it in its current state..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Much... Much... Better.. I can Sleep Now.. LOL...


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Front panel nearly done...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now im wondering whether to downlight from the top with another LED strip.....


hmmm.. looks good








but if you want to add something have you heard of EL wire, EL strips (which
are my fav.) and EL Panels. i "detailed" the whole out side of my case
with EL wire. Going to get EL strips for my next build.
if you haven't heard of it def. look into it


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> Here's some more recent pictures of my loop,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love White n Black Themes. Brilliant.. Now for some Water on that GPU..











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Is that Water cooled TOO? lol


----------



## simonfredette

Just wanted to post a bit of an update on my switch 810 build , it was my first watercooling build and I had to throw it together in the last couple days before being sent out to atlanta and then little rock for some training.. Now that im finally back in canada I was able to cut down my lengths of tubing , add the sleeved extensions and a couple more fans bringing my total to 10 x 120 mm and 4 x 140mm . Also , did a bit of work with some white Di-noc to see how id like it , will do a better job with it the next time I take the rads out of the rig but for now it makes the face of the rads and the PSU white instead of the overpowering black .!

Before :


After :





I know I still need to add zip ties to hold the LED strip where it needs to go , that is the plan for today but I wanted to post some progress


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Just wanted to post a bit of an update on my switch 810 build , it was my first watercooling build and I had to throw it together in the last couple days before being sent out to atlanta and then little rock for some training.. Now that im finally back in canada I was able to cut down my lengths of tubing , add the sleeved extensions and a couple more fans bringing my total to 10 x 120 mm and 4 x 140mm . Also , did a bit of work with some white Di-noc to see how id like it , will do a better job with it the next time I take the rads out of the rig but for now it makes the face of the rads and the PSU white instead of the overpowering black .!
> Before :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I still need to add zip ties to hold the LED strip where it needs to go , that is the plan for today but I wanted to post some progress


Did you paint that XSPC front bay res?


----------



## simonfredette

no thats white Carbon fibre Di-noc , basically a sticker , I want to do the same on the fan controller but probably not the DVD drive as I think the angles are going to make it peel and then just look half done


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is bitspower the only company that makes acrylic fittings ?


No. Danger Den has acrylic fittings too. I have a Danger Den T fitting connection for my drain tube. But it is Rectangular and not at well formed as BP fittings. I think that AquaTuning has them as well but I'd have to check. Then you have Swiftech and XSPC who both have Acrylic fittings.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> no thats white Carbon fibre Di-noc , basically a sticker , I want to do the same on the fan controller but probably not the DVD drive as I think the angles are going to make it peel and then just look half done


If you take the face plate off and leave the tray in place you can use a file to clear enough of the material on the plate to allow the Dinoc to wrap into the opening. That way it won't come up around the edges and look halfa55ed. You just have to be careful taking off the material so that you don't over do it. That's what I keep jewelers files around for.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lovidore

Here's mine.

First attempt, and had to make large bulk orders because shipping costs an arm and a leg for me. I hope I can be accepted within the ranks of watercooled RV02 owners.











I'll get some better images soon from a better camera hopefully.









EDIT:

Oh and I have a question regarding the D5 Bayres pump combo.

I get an unusually loud whirring sound when I turn my pump up and was wondering if people have a similar experience with this? There also is a strong vibration that radiates throughout the whole case. I had to keep my pump at around 1.5 to make it inaudible and I don't like the liquid circulating that slowly.

Thoughts?


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Just wanted to post a bit of an update on my switch 810 build , it was my first watercooling build and I had to throw it together in the last couple days before being sent out to atlanta and then little rock for some training.. Now that im finally back in canada I was able to cut down my lengths of tubing , add the sleeved extensions and a couple more fans bringing my total to 10 x 120 mm and 4 x 140mm . Also , did a bit of work with some white Di-noc to see how id like it , will do a better job with it the next time I take the rads out of the rig but for now it makes the face of the rads and the PSU white instead of the overpowering black .!
> Before :
> 
> After :
> 
> 
> I know I still need to add zip ties to hold the LED strip where it needs to go , that is the plan for today but I wanted to post some progress


----------



## bomberjun

needs moar energy drink.


----------



## InsideJob

^ cool pics


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I need a better camera to take proper pics of my rig...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I need a better camera to take proper pics of my rig...


2nded.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Unless you have a p&s camera that's 10+ years old all you really need is a tripod.

Turn the ISO down to 100, fstop to 5.6 or so, then adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Do not use flash.


----------



## Roikyou

kcuestag, did you use normal compression fittings and tubes between video cards? I was thinking of going that route as I have been using Bitspower Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe I but don't like if any flexibility loosens that fitting and it leaks. My other thoughts would be putting a 90 on each card and running a loop between the two cards. (first card, in from radiator, out 90 to next card 90, out to next radiator)


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wow
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> My UT60's came in for the new build. First time I've seen a 480 up close. Along side is my RX240 for comparison. The UT60's will be going in the SM8 pedestal. I chose these because of the multiple ports since I've never plumbed any out of a pedestal before and thought having more than two ports might be handy. I like the finish on these things and the single port at the opposite end could be good for a drain line since they will be at the very bottom of the rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'll be looking into those UT60 480mm's.. Caselabs


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice, I still havan't mounted any filters to my fans. I figured I'd have to tear it down anyways to add a couple of these, or these to clean the tubes running behind the mobo. I have my fan speeds at 480 and I'm still getting awesome temps.
> 
> For some reason, I can't stand that part of my loop.


480rpm? That's incredibly low.









I don't have an RPM reader in this fan controller, but considering it has a max of 1200rpm and I'm running them at about half speed, they should be at 600rpm or so.









I highly suggest you to use the filters, unless you want all dust get into the rad. I used velcro and stuck them below the case, works great!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> kcuestag, did you use normal compression fittings and tubes between video cards? I was thinking of going that route as I have been using Bitspower Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe I but don't like if any flexibility loosens that fitting and it leaks. My other thoughts would be putting a 90 on each card and running a loop between the two cards. (first card, in from radiator, out 90 to next card 90, out to next radiator)


Yes, I used normal compression fittings and tubing.


----------



## Roikyou

Yes, I used normal compression fittings and tubing.







[/quote]

Looking at your board, you've got two slots between cards (cards take two of course), I've got one slot between cards, might not work for me, might do the 90's and the loop as I don't like how tight the sli connector is....


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> grab something like this.
> K -3/8" ID Tubing 90 Degree , No Spill, Quick Disconnect "F"
> then another normal 90 degree for the bottom (also grab one of
> those wire organizer clips (circular ones of coarse)
> and attach to bottom of case so that will also secure the 90
> degree fitting on bottom of case down tight.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Just get you some 90-degree dual rotary fittings and shorten that run up. Would look much cleaner...


Thanks for the tips guys. Def. going to concider the 90* QD.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unless you have a p&s camera that's 10+ years old all you really need is a tripod.
> Turn the ISO down to 100, fstop to 5.6 or so, then adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Do not use flash.


Going to try this on my Sony DSC-H50 cam and see if it improves pictures. (im a noob)







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 480rpm? That's incredibly low.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have an RPM reader in this fan controller, but considering it has a max of 1200rpm and I'm running them at about half speed, they should be at 600rpm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I highly suggest you to use the filters, unless you want all dust get into the rad. I used velcro and stuck them below the case, works great!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I used normal compression fittings and tubing.


Yeah, it's super quitet at 480rpm. Im definitly going to put filters on, just didn't want to mount them under the case. I'm going to use the filters that came with the case and mount them inside when I redo my loop.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No. Danger Den has acrylic fittings too. I have a Danger Den T fitting connection for my drain tube. But it is Rectangular and not at well formed as BP fittings. I think that AquaTuning has them as well but I'd have to check. Then you have Swiftech and XSPC who both have Acrylic fittings.


Thanks







- Where do you find the Swiftech and XSPC acrylic fittings ?

*Danger Den*





*Bitspower*



Think I will try making my own, when the machine at work is not booked ....


----------



## oblivion.sky

yay!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Got the lights installed and i love the uv purple and the tube color, the pics dont justify the tube color, and i love the brightness of the purple uv, its not overwhelming like the blue on last build. i will take more pics tonight when its dark out


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> yay!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is one nice rigg







like the colour combo


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> yay!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quick Question: How did you manage to get the EK clamps to actually hold the reservoir up? I have the Multioption X2 150 Advanced, and no matter what I do, the darn res just slides right down and out! That is without any water in it, too :/ And the worst part is that I need it to support the MCP35X as well, via a male-male rotary coupler, but I just can't get them to hold the thing!

I am thinking of using a piece of black aluminum (shiny black powdercoated aluminum that has a perfect 90* angle, oddly enough from the rear-I/O panel cover of a Dell Optiplex 980 that my college library was getting rid of) as a small "shelf" that will sit under the pump with the res still attached via male-male coupler, and screwing the "shelf" to the case, and drilling 4 small holes for the "feet" of the pump heatsink to secure it... But that is something I'd rather not have to do, unless I have to.

Whenever I tighten the clamps down for the res, they don't "seal" around the tube, instead there is a big gap and only the very tips of "claws" make contact... And on top of that, they will only tighten so much.

I would really appreciate any tips you have, because as much as I love this reservoir, I am about to take the clamps out in my backyard, set them up on a tree stump, get out my Wilson Tactical SBR .300BLK (with its WC Whisper suppressor) and put a case of 208grain subsonic extreme-expansion hollowpoints through the ********* things on full auto! Argh!

Oh, and it goes without saying, but BEAUTIFUL rig!!!!!


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> yay!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is it just me or is the white tube coming out of the res a little kinked? Doesn't matter any ways because your rig is amazing


----------



## oblivion.sky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quick Question: How did you manage to get the EK clamps to actually hold the reservoir up? I have the Multioption X2 150 Advanced, and no matter what I do, the darn res just slides right down and out! That is without any water in it, too :/ And the worst part is that I need it to support the MCP35X as well, via a male-male rotary coupler, but I just can't get them to hold the thing!
> I am thinking of using a piece of black aluminum (shiny black powdercoated aluminum that has a perfect 90* angle, oddly enough from the rear-I/O panel cover of a Dell Optiplex 980 that my college library was getting rid of) as a small "shelf" that will sit under the pump with the res still attached via male-male coupler, and screwing the "shelf" to the case, and drilling 4 small holes for the "feet" of the pump heatsink to secure it... But that is something I'd rather not have to do, unless I have to.
> Whenever I tighten the clamps down for the res, they don't "seal" around the tube, instead there is a big gap and only the very tips of "claws" make contact... And on top of that, they will only tighten so much.
> I would really appreciate any tips you have, because as much as I love this reservoir, I am about to take the clamps out in my backyard, set them up on a tree stump, get out my Wilson Tactical SBR .300BLK (with its WC Whisper suppressor) and put a case of 208grain subsonic extreme-expansion hollowpoints through the ********* things on full auto! Argh!
> Oh, and it goes without saying, but BEAUTIFUL rig!!!!!


first of all, thank you...

did you put the screw and nut in the back/side of the clamp? and im not talking about the mounting point.

from there you can tighten the CLAMPS/CLAWS to hug the acrylic tube so it can hold it's weight.

take pics if you dont undersand


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Definitely looks kinked. Might need an angled adapter out of the res to sort it out.


----------



## Fonne

Just playing around with my Asus P8Z77-I DELUXE/WD, damm its small











16/10 mm fitting / tubing on the one side, and 13/10mm fitting / tubing on the other ...

Think that even 13/10 looks big on the board







...


----------



## derickwm

Time to go buy some universal blocks...


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Time to go buy some universal blocks...


WOW. what's starting pay for a scrubber/broomer/lowest-job-available at amangiri .. !!


----------



## gliggo

Just finished modding my girlfriend's build! Got a 360 and 120 up top and a 240 up front








Not the greatest tubing route but it does the job! (Y)


----------



## Fuganater

Sometimes your water blocks just need a little bling.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Time to go buy some universal blocks...


Custom or nothing! Uni blocks will be cool on this.

Btw, did you pick one or both from an ocn member? I remember a couple of years ago he was one of the few brave souls to shell out a lot of mulla for a couple of ares.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Here's mine. First water build.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Here's mine. First water build.


God! Been thinking to get asus max V formula for the color (asrock z77 ex6 color does not belong to my color theme). And you sir! just made me drool for it more

Nice rig btw


----------



## derickwm

I'd love to do custom but I dont think the returns would be worth the $$$

The way the HSF is built on this card I should be able to just take off the huge copper blocks on each of the GPU dies and throw a universal block on there, hopefully the Raystorm. No need for ramsinks, and I can still leave pretty much everything intact. We'll see how well this plan works out









I didnt buy from OCN.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> God! Been thinking to get asus max V formula for the color (asrock z77 ex6 color does not belong to my color theme). And you sir! just made me drool for it more
> Nice rig btw


Thank you!
I was contemplating between this and the MSI Mpower. But I'm glad that I got this, it makes me go water cooling, LOL.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Time to go buy some *custom* blocks...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fixed that for you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Just finished modding my girlfriend's build! Got a 360 and 120 up top and a 240 up front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the greatest tubing route but it does the job! (Y)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think it looks pretty darn good, great job on fitting all those rads inside a 600T









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Sometimes your water blocks just need a little bling.


Oh my, now going to creep over to your log to catch more.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> *I'd love to do custom but I dont think the returns would be worth the $$$*
> The way the HSF is built on this card I should be able to just take off the huge copper blocks on each of the GPU dies and throw a universal block on there, hopefully the Raystorm. No need for ramsinks, and I can still leave pretty much everything intact. We'll see how well this plan works out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didnt buy from OCN.


Agreed, but since you have been saying you're going to "settle down" with all of your computer building/antics....why not go out with a bang, custom blocks would finish things off real nice.


----------



## george_orm

so i had a rs240 rasa kit running for a while, but felt the need to get the GPU under water, i may have gone over the top rad wise, i fold and it can get to 40+ C here in summer, so i wanted cool.

Even with fans on min, its the crappy rasa750 pump res that is the loudest thing in my build.
next upgrade is a PSU SSD and the next gen flagship gpu, followed by pump res

i know i cant OC my cpu and that makes me sad, but the water keeps is all cool when i fold, btw the 560ti can do 1000 core and 2100 memory with 1087mv and is as cool as a cucumber

the bitfinix cable extenders are nice

fittings fun










old amount of rad and fan




new rad and fan




one of my favourite shots


notice the two 80mm fans, zip tied together, ziptied to the case, need the air flow for the gpu


what my tubing that came with the rasa kit looked like after a year.


had two leaks to start with, biggest problem was that the res being plastic had warn though its thread, so had to use plumbers tape to stop it leaking, and the other leak, i was silly and forgot a
o-ring. also this rebuild i switched from barb to compression and like it a lot

totals
2x ex360 - 1650rpm xspc fans to match
rs240- 1200rpm xspc fans to match
rasa 750 pump res combo
rasa cpu block
Raystorm universaly gpu block
and Arctic Cooling VR002 RAM Heatsinks for Accelero Xtreme Plus as it was teh only way to get vrm cooling as well


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Time to go buy some *custom* blocks...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed that for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Just finished modding my girlfriend's build! Got a 360 and 120 up top and a 240 up front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the greatest tubing route but it does the job! (Y)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think it looks pretty darn good, great job on fitting all those rads inside a 600T
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Sometimes your water blocks just need a little bling.
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh my, now going to creep over to your log to catch more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> *I'd love to do custom but I dont think the returns would be worth the $$$*
> The way the HSF is built on this card I should be able to just take off the huge copper blocks on each of the GPU dies and throw a universal block on there, hopefully the Raystorm. No need for ramsinks, and I can still leave pretty much everything intact. We'll see how well this plan works out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didnt buy from OCN.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agreed, but since you have been saying you're going to "settle down" with all of your computer building/antics....why not go out with a bang, custom blocks would finish things off real nice.
Click to expand...











See how easy it'd be to slap some Uni blocks in place of the copper blocks









I could do a custom block but I like the look of the Ares stock and if I took away from that... It'd be almost defeat the point of getting it in the beginning lol


----------



## PCModderMike

Ah yea I do like the look of it myself. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Time to go buy some *custom* blocks...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed that for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Just finished modding my girlfriend's build! Got a 360 and 120 up top and a 240 up front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the greatest tubing route but it does the job! (Y)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think it looks pretty darn good, great job on fitting all those rads inside a 600T
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Sometimes your water blocks just need a little bling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh my, now going to creep over to your log to catch more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> *I'd love to do custom but I dont think the returns would be worth the $$$*
> The way the HSF is built on this card I should be able to just take off the huge copper blocks on each of the GPU dies and throw a universal block on there, hopefully the Raystorm. No need for ramsinks, and I can still leave pretty much everything intact. We'll see how well this plan works out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didnt buy from OCN.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agreed, but since you have been saying you're going to "settle down" with all of your computer building/antics....why not go out with a bang, custom blocks would finish things off real nice.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See how easy it'd be to slap some Uni blocks in place of the copper blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could do a custom block but I like the look of the Ares stock and if I took away from that... It'd be almost defeat the point of getting it in the beginning lol
Click to expand...

Agreed. That thing should look the bomb without much in the way of modification to the overall look of the ARES cards. I could Imagine Universal bridge series on those cards. Plexi with LED treatments would look sick.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Possibly, right now I'm leaning towards the Raystorm universal blocks with some white LED lighting.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Here's mine. First water build.


Absolutely stunning i love it.


----------



## golfergolfer

^ This I must say your photography is great







I love that last pic!!! are you using xspc fittings?


----------



## oblivion.sky

mine


----------



## bomberjun

testing some custom leds.

took this pic last night..

just today.


----------



## nyk20z3

Which company for the led strip ?


----------



## bomberjun

I modded my nzxt 2m led strip for the waterblocks, and also bought a led strip from a car accessory shop.


----------



## Tarnix

Posting here, to say that I have been reading from post #1 and it's sad to see all these dead links. I'm at post 341 as for now, hopefully I catch up that post before friday







Will also post my water cooling loop when it's bought/mounted/stuff.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If I can get a camera sorted I intend to take a bunch of new pics of my baby. I don't feel like I've given her justice here in the W/C thread!


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Absolutely stunning i love it.


Thank you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> ^ This I must say your photography is great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love that last pic!!! are you using xspc fittings?


Yes, they are XSPC's


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> mine


hot DAMN! so sweet this build!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unless you have a p&s camera that's 10+ years old all you really need is a tripod.
> Turn the ISO down to 100, fstop to 5.6 or so, then adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Do not use flash.


This.. Flash is a killer...


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> mine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Oblivion.Sky's pictures


Two words comes in mind: Milk and Toothpaste.
Kudos for making this look ultra clean and visually appealing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ryanb213*
> im going to get laughed at if i post my H50 arnt i?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not if i have anything to say about it.
> I started this thread and all i have is an H50. I even stated in the rules of the thread that ANY form of liquid cooling counts for this thread. I do not want anyone to be discouraged from this thread, it is all about getting more people into watercooling.
> you're in.
> updated
Click to expand...

That said, if the rule still stands, while I am saving for my next WC'd build, here's what I run with:


Crammed, cable hell (even zip ties aren't enough!).
stuff:
Corsair Hydro Serie H80 (thinking about doing something about the air, maybe adding more fans where possible)
AMD Phenom II X6

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> DOH! Sorry... Pic enclosed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: picture!


HA! Your fan reminds me of an old fan I found under my bed this week. I completely forgot about it. I'm going to... Borrow your idea once I'm done cleaning mine.
(it was used by my dad to dissipate the heat of the propane fireplace around)


I will update this post or post a new one once I installed it in my rig.

EDIT2: Done!
I think that for the practical side, I shaved off 0.5 °C off the boot temp (18/19°C constantly switching), and moved the radiator away from the CPU socket area (which was my dread).
On the "bootleg" side, that's definitely a + for me.
It's louder than before (from 2 to 5 dB more, I guess. I have no way to measure) but it flows much more air in (contrary to out before, since I used that opportuinty to switch the air flow around).

^Top fan is pulling air in (subject to change)

^Freed some air/room around the CPU socket, It was dreading me.

^yup, holding the fan in place with an Intel Socket pin. Bwahaha.

EDIT3: cleaned up post.


----------



## Fuganater

Please use the spoiler tags when quoting a bunch of pics.


----------



## ChristianUshuaia

Hi guys I don't want to mess this post but I need some help from the WC gurus if you don't mind. Here's my post ty have a nice day:









http://www.overclock.net/t/1311333/help-with-wc-kit-noob#post_18264388


----------



## Tarnix

Posting for the mail-readers: I updated my previous post with my new bootleg fireplace heater config. haha it looks scary a bit.


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Here's mine. First water build.


Whats that lighting on the motherboard?


----------



## zzorro

here some picture from my new MSI Z77 Mpower..setup


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> here some picture from my new MSI Z77 Mpower..setup
> 
> 005.JPG 2230k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 007.JPG 2040k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 009.JPG 2162k .JPG file


Readd your photos with the /img tags, not as attachments.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> here some picture from my new MSI Z77 Mpower..setup


Looks.. Great. I tend to have headaches on this particular wavelength of blue, but this looks so nice it's a shame not to stare at.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> hmmm.. looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but if you want to add something have you heard of EL wire, EL strips (which
> are my fav.) and EL Panels. i "detailed" the whole out side of my case
> with EL wire. Going to get EL strips for my next build.
> if you haven't heard of it def. look into it


Nice. Gives me some ideas.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Whats that lighting on the motherboard?


If you mean the water block, the acrylic mounting has a led hole in it. for the rest, it's part of the Republic of Gamers motherboard, I think, although I never seen it orange. I thought it was red.


----------



## Qu1ckset




----------



## DrakeZ

here's mine, it almost one year since i first built it





i need an advice about how to clean the resevoir and waterblock (cooper + plexi) and make it look's like new again
as you know my res only have 4 ports and i have trouble to clean it from that ports


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'd guess the usual combo of hot water and vinegar.

I'd probably just buy a new one. They aren't expensive...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> here's mine, it almost one year since i first built it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i need an advice about how to clean the resevoir and waterblock (cooper + plexi) and make it look's like new again
> as you know my res only have 4 ports and i have trouble to clean it from that ports


Run your pump only (jump start it) and run some hot distilled. Best thing is to break down everything and flush with hot distilled and/or a diluted vinegar mix. I know some ppl do flush with tap water and then rinse with distilled. I guess its ok as long as you thoroughly flushed with distilled. I don't like the risk so I just buy a few gallons of distilled which are cheap at Walmart.

edit: @ Majin, that avatar is smexy


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Whats that lighting on the motherboard?


Which one do you mean? Near the Supreme FX?


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Which one do you mean? Near the Supreme FX?


Yes, on the left side


----------



## pippothinh

My Tron case whith hardtube


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pippothinh*
> 
> My Tron case whith hardtube


Really nice rig pippothinh . Next time, I will be using copper tube (damm plasticizers)

This is a Borderlands Style picture of my PC (I love BL2)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1311300/build-log-project-quad-damage-warning-many-pictures/0_30#post_18266023


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Which one do you mean? Near the Supreme FX?


It is there on the mobo by default. IINM, Asus says that the supreme fx part of the mobo is isolated from the rest of the mobo, hence the light.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pippothinh*
> 
> My Tron case whith hardtube
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those tubes are sexy


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to post a bit of an update on my switch 810 build , it was my first watercooling build and I had to throw it together in the last couple days before being sent out to atlanta and then little rock for some training.. Now that im finally back in canada I was able to cut down my lengths of tubing , add the sleeved extensions and a couple more fans bringing my total to 10 x 120 mm and 4 x 140mm . Also , did a bit of work with some white Di-noc to see how id like it , will do a better job with it the next time I take the rads out of the rig but for now it makes the face of the rads and the PSU white instead of the overpowering black .!
> Before :
> 
> 
> 
> After :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I still need to add zip ties to hold the LED strip where it needs to go , that is the plan for today but I wanted to post some progress


Nice setup!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Man i just about shat my pants, i was playing some sc2 and i heard a noise like something hard fell to the bottom of my case, i immediately turned my powerbar off with my foot (located perfectly where my feet are while gaming) and took off my bottom fan filters off quickly to make sure there wasn't water (there wasn't) opened my case and looked around hard didn't see anything to do with the loop, it ended up being my cathode falling of the sticky tape and hitting my rad, THANK GOD!


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Man i just about shat my pants, i was playing some sc2 and i heard a noise like something hard fell to the bottom of my case, i immediately turned my powerbar off with my foot (located perfectly where my feet are while gaming) and took off my bottom fan filters off quickly to make sure there wasn't water (there wasn't) opened my case and looked around hard didn't see anything to do with the loop, it ended up being my cathode falling of the sticky tape and hitting my rad, THANK GOD!


Damn sticky tape never holds!

Glad your pc is ok


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> yay!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My jaw seriously dropped.

Holy crap.


----------



## Fuganater

Quick question. Will this cause too much restriction from the res to the dual pumps?


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quick question. Will this cause too much restriction from the res to the dual pumps?


It will but what can you do? Sometimes you gotta make do with what you've got. You might be able to get a straighter shot by using just a 90deg non-rotary on the res end and perhaps incorporate a d-plug?


----------



## Tarnix

Did the OP stop adding members?


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm considering selling my EK Black Nickel fittings and getting something else. I really like these fittings but looking into the black interior of my black case I think I need something that doesn't blend in so well. Anyone think I shouldn't? Should I keep the EK fittings? I'm considering White fittings or something else.









~Ceadder


----------



## tsm106

Try the xspc black chrome. They can be shiny or darkish. Blingy and understated all at the same time.


----------



## kpforce1

I'll soon have another rig to add to the OC.net watercooling arsenal









Currently working on my SR-2, dual Xenon x5679, quad gtx 480, old school Lan Li folding/benching rig







with everything going under water

*BUILD LOG*


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Try the xspc black chrome. They can be shiny or darkish. Blingy and understated all at the same time.


They have the exact same colour as ek's black nickel fittings.I know that because I'm using both of them


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Did the OP stop adding members?


No,I have been busy setting my SR2 up,will be on the case in the morning.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Try the xspc black chrome. They can be shiny or darkish. Blingy and understated all at the same time.


Well I have white Tubing, but I also have Red Heatsinks on my RAM and have black 45's in my system so I'm considering Red Monsoon Compression fittings or White BP, Swiftech fittigs. It's pretty much dependent on how much I have when I finally decide, but I'll have to sell these Black Comps to offset some of the cost.









I really don't want shiny fittings unless they have some color besides chrome or black nickel. If I keep black fittings I might as well keep these.









~Ceadder


----------



## Legonut

I finished this about a month ago with a 1090t, the swapped the motherboard and CPU for an i7 3770k. Is 60C too hot for 100% at 4.0GHz?


----------



## Tarnix

@kpforce1: Looks promising!
@B Negative: Okay, I was just curious








@Legonut: 60°C for 100% load under water, with an i7-3770K? from what I read in the forum, you have very nice temps.







(I still think that intel processors heats like crazy.. Hell, my X6 @ 4.0 was barely reaching 45 under extreme load!)
I Will go back reading the posts from 2009 (I want to see them all @[email protected]!)


----------



## Legonut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> @kpforce1: Looks promising!
> @B Negative: Okay, I was just curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Legonut: 60°C for 100% load under water, with an i7-3770K? from what I read in the forum, you have very nice temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I still think that intel processors heats like crazy.. Hell, my X6 @ 4.0 was barely reaching 45 under extreme load!)
> I Will go back reading the posts from 2009 (I want to see them all @[email protected]!)


Thanks, my 1090t also wouldn't go past 45C at 4.0, but the performance difference is astounding.
I forgot to add this WIP



Dremeling curves takes so long...


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I have white Tubing, but I also have Red Heatsinks on my RAM and have black 45's in my system so I'm considering Red Monsoon Compression fittings or White BP, Swiftech fittigs. It's pretty much dependent on how much I have when I finally decide, but I'll have to sell these Black Comps to offset some of the cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't want shiny fittings unless they have some color besides chrome or black nickel. If I keep black fittings I might as well keep these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Red monsoons look really good in black cases.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legonut*
> 
> Thanks, my 1090t also wouldn't go past 45C at 4.0, *but the performance difference is astounding*.


Good to know, since my next build will contain a 3550K or a 3770K, depends on the budget.
Quote:


> I forgot to add this WIP
> 
> Dremeling curves takes so long...


Portal <3 I know a friend that's going to squee when she'll see the picture of your final build.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Try the xspc black chrome. They can be shiny or darkish. Blingy and understated all at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I have white Tubing, but I also have Red Heatsinks on my RAM and have black 45's in my system so I'm considering Red Monsoon Compression fittings or White BP, Swiftech fittigs. It's pretty much dependent on how much I have when I finally decide, but I'll have to sell these Black Comps to offset some of the cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't want shiny fittings unless they have some color besides chrome or black nickel. If I keep black fittings I might as well keep these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I'd say go for it, either white or red fittings would really make it "pop" as they say now.
The Monsoon fittings have a unique look as well, something different from the run of the mill black compression fittings.
Out of curiosity, how many fittings would you be replacing, listing how many are straight, and 45 degree, etc.?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Try the xspc black chrome. They can be shiny or darkish. Blingy and understated all at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I have white Tubing, but I also have Red Heatsinks on my RAM and have black 45's in my system so I'm considering Red Monsoon Compression fittings or White BP, Swiftech fittigs. It's pretty much dependent on how much I have when I finally decide, but I'll have to sell these Black Comps to offset some of the cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't want shiny fittings unless they have some color besides chrome or black nickel. If I keep black fittings I might as well keep these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd say go for it, either white or red fittings would really make it "pop" as they say now.
> The Monsoon fittings have a unique look as well, something different from the run of the mill black compression fittings.
> Out of curiosity, how many fittings would you be replacing, listing how many are straight, and 45 degree, etc.?
Click to expand...

Gonna replace 8 Comps, two 90s' and possibly my Koolance 2/3 VGA connector which has never been used. Gonna keep my Enzotech 45s' to keep a clean look. I was considering the Monsoon angle fittings but they're just too bloody expensive.










~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I don't know how you guys can stomach using mismatched fittings?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I don't know how you guys can stomach using mismatched fittings?


Well, if I hadn't already spent more than the national debt of several small countries on this build already, I'd love to buy an assortment of color-matched Monsoon fittings, in a selection of straight, 45's, 60's 90's, etc.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna replace 8 Comps, two 90s' and possibly my Koolance 2/3 VGA connector which has never been used. Gonna keep my Enzotech 45s' to keep a clean look. I was considering the Monsoon angle fittings but they're just too bloody expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks, Ceadder. I've always liked Bitspower fittings, but they were over my budget "new".
And you're right about the sky-high prices of the Monsoon fittings!


----------



## DAWOODAKRAM

mine is here:

gtx275
amd phenom ii 560 black edition
both overclocked
corsair vengeance 8gb
3 hdds
240mm rad


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I don't know how you guys can stomach using mismatched fittings?


I've got Black Enzotech 45s' because EK didn't make angle fittings at the time when I was planning my build. Not that it matters too much because they're fairly nice looking and you can't really tell that they're not meant for compression fittings manufactured by other companies. I woulda bought the EK angle fittings though had they been available at the time because they don't have any markings unlike the BP fittings that are remarkably similar.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Well, if I hadn't already spent more than the national debt of several small countries on this build already, I'd love to buy an assortment of color-matched Monsoon fittings, in a selection of straight, 45's, 60's 90's, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna replace 8 Comps, two 90s' and possibly my Koolance 2/3 VGA connector which has never been used. Gonna keep my Enzotech 45s' to keep a clean look. I was considering the Monsoon angle fittings but they're just too bloody expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Ceadder. I've always liked Bitspower fittings, but they were over my budget "new".
> And you're right about the sky-high prices of the Monsoon fittings!
Click to expand...

Mine wasn't so much budget as it was looks. I had a specific look in mind so the price wasn't that big a deal to me. If BP fittings had been smaller in diameter, I would have probably gone with those instead because they're rather clean. But you can't put two 3/4" OD Comps on my block without some effort behind it.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Mine wasn't so much budget as it was looks. I had a specific look in mind so the price wasn't that big a deal to me. If BP fittings had been smaller in diameter, I would have probably gone with those instead because they're rather clean. But you can't put two 3/4" OD Comps on my block without some effort behind it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Too close for comfort! I've chosen to go with 1/2x3/4 tubing and comps. as well, because to me, it just looks "right". I've found it to be impossible to keep everything the same brand or style. As far as pricing goes, I bought several 4-packs of black Feser comp. fittings to save a few bucks. All because I chose to blow 300 clams on a TJ07, to replace my trusty HAF 932


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Mine wasn't so much budget as it was looks. I had a specific look in mind so the price wasn't that big a deal to me. If BP fittings had been smaller in diameter, I would have probably gone with those instead because they're rather clean. But *you can't put two BitsPower 3/4" OD Comps* on my block without some effort behind it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too close for comfort! I've chosen to go with 1/2x3/4 tubing and comps. as well, because to me, it just looks "right". I've found it to be impossible to keep everything the same brand or style. As far as pricing goes, I bought several 4-packs of black Feser comp. fittings to save a few bucks. All because I chose to blow 300 clams on a TJ07, to replace my trusty HAF 932
Click to expand...

There I fixed it. I have 3/4 comps. BP comps are quite a bit larger than EK comps though.









~Ceadder


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just a couple quick inquiries.


I am at the understanding that there is minimal performance difference between 1/2" ID and 3/8" ID, is this true?
3/8" ID-5/8" OD will give smaller radial bends then 1/2" ID- 3/4" OD, is this true?
Also
As long as the res. is before the pump (feeding the pump) it makes no difference in what way (angle) you mount the pump?
If I have done my home work I should be good to order everything tonight to finish my build in the next week, so close







, so excited.







This has been along time planning and doing.









Oh and what do you lovely knowledgeable people know about the KOOLANCE PMP-500 PUMP ?


----------



## mandrix

I just stick with 7/16 x 5/8. Then if I need / have to swap fittings between the rigs it's no problem. But that sort of limits you to BP fittings for compressions/rotaries if you want the full range available. Basically all but a few of my fittings are BP but I do use some chrome XSPC and Koolance G 1/4 here and there where they blend in.
The fittings are expensive but it's not like they are going to wear out, it's that initial investment that hurts, you can kill a few hundred $ real fast!

Those PMP-500 pumps pulling 38 watts? Thats an awful lot for a 12v pump. I haven't seen anyone post experience with that pump up yet.

@Ceadderman : I think the white BP fittings would look good. Problem I guess is finding them? I know someone had to special order a bunch of white ones a while back. PPC's has a few I think.


----------



## ginger_nuts

see the problem is that I can only get the XSPC clear or Primochill clear in 7/16".

I was planning on Masterkleer 3/8"-5/8" Clear UV Blue.


----------



## PhantomTaco

I'd stick with XSPC between those two options


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just a couple quick inquiries.
> 
> 
> I am at the understanding that there is minimal performance difference between 1/2" ID and 3/8" ID, is this true?
> 3/8" ID-5/8" OD will give smaller radial bends then 1/2" ID- 3/4" OD, is this true?
> Also
> As long as the res. is before the pump (feeding the pump) it makes no difference in what way (angle) you mount the pump?
> If I have done my home work I should be good to order everything tonight to finish my build in the next week, so close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so excited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been along time planning and doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and what do you lovely knowledgeable people know about the KOOLANCE PMP-500 PUMP ?


1. Correct. There is very little if not any diffance between the 2 sizes. Only when you get down to 1/4" do you see a small differance. (So I have read)

2. Yes

3. And yes but it also has to be lower than the res. (Gotta respect gravity) You can mount the pump upside down if that is the way it has to be.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I have white Tubing, but I also have Red Heatsinks on my RAM and have black 45's in my system so I'm considering Red Monsoon Compression fittings or White BP, Swiftech fittigs. It's pretty much dependent on how much I have when I finally decide, but I'll have to sell these Black Comps to offset some of the cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't want shiny fittings unless they have some color besides chrome or black nickel. If I keep black fittings I might as well keep these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My personal choice would be to change the tubing as well. Initially I thought RED MONSOON fittings!







My afterthought however was that it might look border-line Christmas with the white tubing. (We can't have your rig resembling Santa's suit). So replace the tubing with black - or if that blends to much/ doesn't provide you with enough contrast - then try silver/gray tubing with the red monsoon fittings, I think that the silver might be a pleasant contrast with the red/black scheme.

Whatever you decide, please, please don't put white fittings on that white tubing. Otherwise I might also have to leave our folding team - and blame it on your color scheme making me too sick to fold! LOL









Your fellow folder...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should I keep the EK fittings? I'm considering White fittings or something else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


White Fittings get my vote. Have not seen a pic of your build so dont really know what your overall scheme is. I really like the white on black builds.. Good Luck


----------



## Lazy Bear

So I've heard some talk about BP's coloured fittings to be having issues with their colours. I like my adonised red Monsoon's, but I'm really ready to switch to all BP blood red fittings so that I can actually REMOVE and REUSE them. I mean, Monsoons are beautiful, but I have issues with stripping down the loop and unscrewing the collar from the barb, and it's been with my 12 black fittings, my 6 white fittings, AND my 12 red fittings. I have lost the use of literally 8 fittings because I was unable to unscrew them without visibly damaging the wonderful finishes on them, which I pretty much did on my blacks. At first I thought it was the tubing I was using, so when I take apart my loop to paint my rads red next weekend I guess I'll see what happens, but I'm pretty worried about it.

Have any of you experienced discolouration with BP's fittings recently? After using Enzotech, Koolance, and Monsoon, I think I'm really ready to make the jump to all BP.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna replace 8 Comps, two 90s' and possibly my Koolance 2/3 VGA connector which has never been used. Gonna keep my Enzotech 45s' to keep a clean look. *I was considering the Monsoon angle fittings but they're just too bloody expensive.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I hear ya - I was waiting (patiently) for many months on those Monsoon angled fittings - 2 x 45s w/compression and color-matching discs = $38. It will be more than $40 after shipping. This is tough (for me) to stomach, especially when the 6pk of compressions is just $35. (6pc. @ $35 vs. 2pc. @ $38)







.
I am always budget conscience - most of my builds are second-hand-parts assembled. So spending $20 for a single compression fitting sort of gets my cotton in a bunch - if you know what I mean?








I'm never going to be one of those guys that posts a pic of $500 worth of new BP fittings all lined up OCD-like. (Not unless I win the Lotto - then get your resolution adjusted for some eye-watering eye-candy!) LOL


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> So I've heard some talk about BP's coloured fittings to be having issues with their colours. I like my adonised red Monsoon's, but I'm really ready to switch to all BP blood red fittings so that I can actually REMOVE and REUSE them. I mean, Monsoons are beautiful, but I have issues with stripping down the loop and unscrewing the collar from the barb, and it's been with my 12 black fittings, my 6 white fittings, AND my 12 red fittings. *I have lost the use of literally 8 fittings because I was unable to unscrew them without visibly damaging the wonderful finishes on them*, which I pretty much did on my blacks. At first I thought it was the tubing I was using, so when I take apart my loop to paint my rads red next weekend I guess I'll see what happens, but I'm pretty worried about it.
> Have any of you experienced discolouration with BP's fittings recently? After using Enzotech, Koolance, and Monsoon, I think I'm really ready to make the jump to all BP.


Have you contacted the owner at Monsoon? I have heard that some other people had the same experience, but he was really good about replacing the fittings that were ruined.
Monsoon contact: [email protected]


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I'm never going to be one of those guys that posts a pic of $500 worth of new BP fittings all lined up OCD-like. (Not unless I win the Lotto - then get your resolution adjusted for some eye-watering eye-candy!) LOL


This made me chuckle and cringe at the same time.... because I bought $250 worth of fittings off of here (worth twice that) thinking it would be enough lol. Nope. Needless to say I ended up spending as much on fittings as I have in the core components of my SR-2 build lol. And the fittings were for my x58 rig.

Fittings are part of the reason I decided to use copper tube in my Force1 SR-2 build.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Have you contacted the owner at Monsoon? I have heard that some other people had the same experience, but he was really good about replacing the fittings that were ruined.
> Monsoon contact: [email protected]


Ah, well that would be wonderful, thanks for the contact!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I just stick with 7/16 x 5/8. Then if I need / have to swap fittings between the rigs it's no problem. But that sort of limits you to BP fittings for compressions/rotaries if you want the full range available. Basically all but a few of my fittings are BP but I do use some chrome XSPC and Koolance G 1/4 here and there where they blend in.
> The fittings are expensive but it's not like they are going to wear out, it's that initial investment that hurts, you can kill a few hundred $ real fast!
> Those PMP-500 pumps pulling 38 watts? Thats an awful lot for a 12v pump. I haven't seen anyone post experience with that pump up yet.
> @Ceadderman : I think the white BP fittings would look good. Problem I guess is finding them? I know someone had to special order a bunch of white ones a while back. PPC's has a few I think.


You can order BP white fittings from here:http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/white/ these guys are in Holland.

and

From the guys themselves @ BP :http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/product02.aspx?kind=105&kind2=105 *or* http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/product01.aspx *or* http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6_27 when ordering you have to do it by contacting them at :http://www.bitspower.com/html/contact/contact.aspx

they take a few days to answer, but they do.

Frozen have a few last time i checked, but not the whole range.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> see the problem is that I can only get the XSPC clear or Primochill clear in 7/16".
> I was planning on Masterkleer 3/8"-5/8" Clear UV Blue.


Durelene also do 7/16 in, actually they do a load of sizes, here is yours :http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html

As for damaging fittings when removing, imo it depends on how much you have overtightened them quite often, also a rag around the fitting helps prevent marking (obvious but you would be surprised how many people overlook such simple actions)

The best solution though is to apply a miniscule amount of silicone grease on the areas that are affected/to be connected *BEFORE* you assemble your loop-use the one that we use for scuba diving, it also has waterproof qualities, and is very cheap.


----------



## Fuganater

I thought Chedder was from the USA? If so PPCs stocks White BP fittings.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I don't know how you guys can stomach using mismatched fittings?


I wish everything I had was the same, but Monsoon's got expensive and started going with XSPC compressions. Also, I have 1/2 barb's on my external rad stand.. so 3 different type's here...


----------



## wermad

xspc fittings and some phobya "black nickel" rotary adapters. The colors blend pretty good. They are a bit of a pita to work with. I'm definitely going with alphacool next time around. They're a tad bit more expensive but not hella expensive as bits-power. Also, I'm still not sold on the Monsoon's look


----------



## Ballantin

Hi there.

This is my first post on these forums, so i will introduce myself briefly.

Im a computer entusiast, and i build my own computers from 1999. I started on the Water Cooling world about 3 or 4 years ago only.

Here i will post my latest build, and maybe later i will add some pics of my other builds













Specs are:

Intel i7 3939K
Asus R4E
32Gb (4Gb x 8) Gskill Ripjaws 2133Mhz.
Nvidia GTX690
Asus Xonar
Corsair Obsidian 800D
Corsair AX1200
Various SSDs and HDs
27" 120hz Asus monitor.

Water Cooling Specs:

EK Supreme HF Full nickel CPU block.
XSPC Razor GTX690 GPU Waterblock
Alphacool Repack - Dual Laing D5 - Dual 5,25 Bay Station
2 x Laing D5 Vario pumps
EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360)
3x Gentle Typoon 120mm 1800rpm
3.3m (10ft) Masterkleer, 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Hose, Clear, Boxed (Used about 1m).
6x EK-PSC Fitting 13mm - G1/4 E-Nickel for ID 1/2" OD 3/4" Tube
11x Bitspower Premium BP-CPF-CC5 G1/4" Silver Shining Compression Fitting CC5- For ID 1/2" OD3/4" Tube
Various other Bitspower fittings.
Koolance valve.
EK-EKoolants UV Blue


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Doing as bit of stress testing today...




No more than 40c on the hottest GPU core.....


----------



## tiborrr12

@B:

You must surpass my 21k on a ****ty 3770K and two aircooled Radeons








http://www.hwbot.org/submission/2316399_


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @B:
> You must surpass my 21k on a ****ty 3770K and two aircooled Radeons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hwbot.org/submission/2316399_


XD

I dont think 3d mark uses both my processors Tiborr.


----------



## tiborrr12

It does, it does. It just doesn't give as much credit (= CPU score weights much less) to the CPU as 3DMark Vantage.
It's cool though to see such a beast of system holding back three cards


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> It does, it does. It just doesn't give as much credit (= CPU score weights much less) to the CPU as 3DMark Vantage.
> It's cool though to see such a beast of system holding back three cards


Its still stock Niko,the CPU's need a OC quite badly.


----------



## tiborrr12

I known, I saw the 2nd screenshot. Overclock the hell out of it then!









Regards,
Niko


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I known, I saw the 2nd screenshot. Overclock the hell out of it then!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Niko


XD

This SR-2 BIOS is mindbending,its going to take a little while to get my head round it.

When i do,i will come look for you.

How about some non LN2 scores Niko?

EDIT: I will find a 3dm 11 thread and link you in,we have gone off topic here


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @B:
> You must surpass my 21k on a ****ty 3770K and two aircooled Radeons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hwbot.org/submission/2316399_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*!


Nice run







. Ugh, i really should get a z77 board again


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice run
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ugh, i really should get a z77 board again


And some LN2,Niko bought a gun to a knife fight with his 5.9Ghz LN 2 cooled CPU


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> This made me chuckle and cringe at the same time.... because I bought $250 worth of fittings off of here (worth twice that) thinking it would be enough lol. Nope. Needless to say I ended up spending as much on fittings as I have in the core components of my SR-2 build lol. And the fittings were for my x58 rig.
> Fittings are part of the reason I decided to use copper tube in my Force1 SR-2 build.


See, here's the thing...when I started WC my rigs, I went cheap - all barbs and zip ties! I always thought I would go in later and add matching compression fittings when I could afford it. After a few WC builds now i am still using the barbs and zip ties - why? - because every time I have enough money saved to buy compression fittings I decide to buy something else lol. (ie. new GPU, new case etc.)

My personal take on water-cooling:
Water-cooling is a chaotic, never-ending, emotional roller-coaster. It's akin to falling in love with your worst enemy. It's an addiction that constantly keeps one wavering upon the tight-rope of separation between sanity and blissful ignorance. It's the adrenaline-filled excitement of a UPS or FedEx delivery, soon quelled by the heartache of an RMA, an excessive electric bill, or worse - the disdainful attitude of a significant other. It's hours upon hours of decisions and careful planning that often are thwarted within seconds of implementation. It's the culminating pinnacle in a pursuit of greater performance, which undoubtedly will also be the inexhaustible beginning of yet another, longer, more costly endeavor. Water-cooling is a story with more than one climax, an infinite story line, but never an ending...


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> XD
> This SR-2 BIOS is mindbending,its going to take a little while to get my head round it.
> When i do,i will come look for you.
> How about some non LN2 scores Niko?
> EDIT: I will find a 3dm 11 thread and link you in,we have gone off topic here


Hehe, what is non LN2? -100°C Cascade cooling? I don't remember last time I recorded a run done at ambient cooling








I have given my cascade to a buddy of mine couple of months ago and have to build another one for myself (if someone is interested, here's a build log: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?223407-My-2nd-mini-cascade-2x-MP14-FB and http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?219720-oldskool-Some-fun-with-K7-chips-prologue&p=3847324#post3847324 ).

Sadly I don't find much time to do such stuff anymore...

Tnx wermad. Too bad I toasted my 6.5GHz Ci7 3770K 3D-capable CPU prematurely (fried IMC)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I have white Tubing, but I also have Red Heatsinks on my RAM and have black 45's in my system so I'm considering Red Monsoon Compression fittings or White BP, Swiftech fittigs. It's pretty much dependent on how much I have when I finally decide, but I'll have to sell these Black Comps to offset some of the cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't want shiny fittings unless they have some color besides chrome or black nickel. If I keep black fittings I might as well keep these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My personal choice would be to change the tubing as well. Initially I thought RED MONSOON fittings!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My afterthought however was that it might look border-line Christmas with the white tubing. (We can't have your rig resembling Santa's suit). So replace the tubing with black - or if that blends to much/ doesn't provide you with enough contrast - then try silver/gray tubing with the red monsoon fittings, I think that the silver might be a pleasant contrast with the red/black scheme.
> 
> Whatever you decide, please, please don't put white fittings on that white tubing. Otherwise I might also have to leave our folding team - and blame it on your color scheme making me too sick to fold! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your fellow folder...
Click to expand...

My color scheme.








*yikes! That pic, blurry that is. Apologies. Gonna have to check and see if I can't get my buddies digital cam to clean up my shots.







!

Black is too much and silver doesn't fit. Which is why I am considering white or some other color of fitting.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should I keep the EK fittings? I'm considering White fittings or something else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White Fittings get my vote. Have not seen a pic of your build so dont really know what your overall scheme is. I really like the white on black builds.. Good Luck
Click to expand...

Thank you for the input. I'll take it under consideration.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> So I've heard some talk about BP's coloured fittings to be having issues with their colours. I like my adonised red Monsoon's, but I'm really ready to switch to all BP blood red fittings so that I can actually REMOVE and REUSE them. I mean, Monsoons are beautiful, but I have issues with stripping down the loop and unscrewing the collar from the barb, and it's been with my 12 black fittings, my 6 white fittings, AND my 12 red fittings. I have lost the use of literally 8 fittings because I was unable to unscrew them without visibly damaging the wonderful finishes on them, which I pretty much did on my blacks. At first I thought it was the tubing I was using, so when I take apart my loop to paint my rads red next weekend I guess I'll see what happens, but I'm pretty worried about it.
> 
> Have any of you experienced discolouration with BP's fittings recently? After using Enzotech, Koolance, and Monsoon, I think I'm really ready to make the jump to all BP.


The BPs' that I had(Black) were decent but they could get dinged up pretty easily if you weren't careful with them. Don't juggle BP fittings. I'd check into what NostraD suggested and see if you can't get it cleared up that way. Far as I know however, no fitting with an enamel coating is safe from dings and scratches. You just have to treat them with kid gloves.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna replace 8 Comps, two 90s' and possibly my Koolance 2/3 VGA connector which has never been used. Gonna keep my Enzotech 45s' to keep a clean look. *I was considering the Monsoon angle fittings but they're just too bloody expensive.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hear ya - I was waiting (patiently) for many months on those Monsoon angled fittings - 2 x 45s w/compression and color-matching discs = $38. It will be more than $40 after shipping. This is tough (for me) to stomach, especially when the 6pk of compressions is just $35. (6pc. @ $35 vs. 2pc. @ $38)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I am always budget conscience - most of my builds are second-hand-parts assembled. So spending $20 for a single compression fitting sort of gets my cotton in a bunch - if you know what I mean?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm never going to be one of those guys that posts a pic of $500 worth of new BP fittings all lined up OCD-like. (Not unless I win the Lotto - then get your resolution adjusted for some eye-watering eye-candy!) LOL
Click to expand...









Ya I would love to have a ton of water fittings to lay out like candy for the kiddies like some people, but the people I am thinking about are reviewers so I'm not sure how many of those were bought and paid for outright or were given to the reviewers to review and they cannot sell them so their pile keeps growing. I want to be a reviewer dammit!







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I thought Chedder was from the USA? If so PPCs stocks White BP fittings.


Yes I am in the States. So I can pretty much get anything I want within reason so long as the vendor doesn't bend me over and take my wallet in shipping charges. We need some damned vendors out here blast it all. All the vendors are on the Eastern Seaboard and what little that aren't are in Canada and the Ohio area. Shipping is BS considering their shipping is estimated. I guarantee every quote is higher than it should be. And when they (RARELY) come in under the vendor contacts you and tells you that they need more. Newegg is a solid vendor but they don't do nearly enough watercooling components.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Doing as bit of stress testing today...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No more than 40c on the hottest GPU core.....


you should be able to hit way higher than that , Id expect anyways , with just 2 570s 2.5gb cards I hit about 12K easy , overclock those a bit more!! temps are great though ..

just checked the bottom picture , more like it !! Makes more sense now , I would expect 16 K from maybe 1 of your 670s


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And some LN2,Niko bought a gun to a knife fight with his 5.9Ghz LN 2 cooled CPU


Yeah, saw that too. Still, my evga z77 was a lot better at overclocking. Sadly, its a turd for stability and everything else. Ever since the p67/z68 evga has been very dodgy on their mb stuff. I haven't seen the same quality as the X58 boards.

Saw your cpu 3d11 score. Interesting that it's low. I'll run vantage to see what my cpu score is (sans phyx). I'm getting ~10.7k on my 2700k @ 4.8 in 3d11.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Tnx wermad. Too bad I toasted my 6.5GHz Ci7 3770K 3D-capable CPU prematurely (fried IMC)


That sucks


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> My personal take on water-cooling:
> Water-cooling is a chaotic, never-ending, emotional roller-coaster. It's akin to falling in love with your worst enemy. It's an addiction that constantly keeps one wavering upon the tight-rope of separation between sanity and blissful ignorance. It's the adrenaline-filled excitement of a UPS or FedEx delivery, soon quelled by the heartache of an RMA, an excessive electric bill, or worse - the disdainful attitude of a significant other. It's hours upon hours of decisions and careful planning that often are thwarted within seconds of implementation. It's the culminating pinnacle in a pursuit of greater performance, which undoubtedly will also be the inexhaustible beginning of yet another, longer, more costly endeavor. Water-cooling is a story with more than one climax, an infinite story line, but never an ending...


It's like you can see into my soul.

Well put!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> See, here's the thing...when I started WC my rigs, I went cheap - all barbs and zip ties! I always thought I would go in later and add matching compression fittings when I could afford it. After a few WC builds now i am still using the barbs and zip ties - why? - because every time I have enough money saved to buy compression fittings I decide to buy something else lol. (ie. new GPU, new case etc.)
> My personal take on water-cooling:
> Water-cooling is a chaotic, never-ending, emotional roller-coaster. It's akin to falling in love with your worst enemy. It's an addiction that constantly keeps one wavering upon the tight-rope of separation between sanity and blissful ignorance. It's the adrenaline-filled excitement of a UPS or FedEx delivery, soon quelled by the heartache of an RMA, an excessive electric bill, or worse - the disdainful attitude of a significant other. It's hours upon hours of decisions and careful planning that often are thwarted within seconds of implementation. It's the culminating pinnacle in a pursuit of greater performance, which undoubtedly will also be the inexhaustible beginning of yet another, longer, more costly endeavor. Water-cooling is a story with more than one climax, an infinite story line, but never an ending...


I see it as a nice way of emptying my wallet and getting hawt girls.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> It's like you can see into my soul.
> Well put!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I see it as a nice way of emptying my wallet and getting hawt girls.


Yeah that ^ (well the wallet part anyway...I already have a "hawt" girl)!


----------



## grazz1984

Motherbord for my fresh build


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Looks like you're giving that fugly board something to be proud of at the Fugly Motherboard convention.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> It's like you can see into my soul.
> Well put!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I see it as a nice way of emptying my wallet and getting hawt girls.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah that ^ (well the wallet part anyway...I already have a "hawt" girl)!
Click to expand...

Yeah I was gonna say NostraD... your lady might have had to start ransacking your car lookin for the extracurricular protection stash.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> you should be able to hit way higher than that , Id expect anyways , with just 2 570s 2.5gb cards I hit about 12K easy , overclock those a bit more!! temps are great though ..
> *just checked the bottom picture , more like it !! Makes more sense now , I would expect 16 K from maybe 1 of your 670s*


LOL







In what world are you living in where you've seen a single 670 hit 16,000?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ballantin*
> 
> Hi there.
> This is my first post on these forums, so i will introduce myself briefly.
> Im a computer entusiast, and i build my own computers from 1999. I started on the Water Cooling world about 3 or 4 years ago only.
> Here i will post my latest build, and maybe later i will add some pics of my other builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome OCN


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> you should be able to hit way higher than that , Id expect anyways , with just 2 570s 2.5gb cards I hit about 12K easy , overclock those a bit more!! temps are great though ..
> just checked the bottom picture , more like it !! Makes more sense now , I would expect 16 K from maybe 1 of your 670s


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In what world are you living in where you've seen a single 670 hit 16,000?










Point me to a 670 like that and i will gladly open my wallet!!!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^
> Yeah I was gonna say NostraD... your lady might have had to start ransacking your car lookin for the extracurricular protection stash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


HA! ^makes me laugh...


----------



## wermad

I can see a cpu 4.5-5.0 w/ a couple of 670s hit 16k.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can see a cpu 4.5-5.0 w/ a couple of 670s hit 16k.


This. My 2700K at 4.5 with my *couple* of 670's will do almost 16K.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can see a cpu 4.5-5.0 w/ a couple of 670s hit 16k.


Same i was a little over 19k with a 3770K with dual Evga 670 ftw's.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Same i was a little over 19k with a 3770K with dual Evga 670 ftw's.


I gotta call it.







Haha, not trying to give you a hard time....and sorry don't wanna derail anymore. But I hang in the 3DMark11 thread, and it's usually people with 3 670's getting a score above 19K, but you only have two?


----------



## nyk20z3

Everything was oc'ed though.

The 3770K was at 4.5Ghz and i had the cards oc'ed as well.

My rig is down right now adding some upgrades so i will post proof then give me about 2 weeks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I gotta call it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, not trying to give you a hard time....and sorry don't wanna derail anymore. But I hang in the 3DMark11 thread, and it's usually people with 3 670's getting a score above 19K, but you only have two?


I gotta see this too.

I hit 18.1K with four 480s which is my personal best. I'm at 9.8 with my sole 590


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Everything was oc'ed though.
> The 3770K was at 4.5Ghz and i had the cards oc'ed as well.
> My rig is down right now adding some upgrades so i will post proof then give me about 2 weeks.


A 3770K at 4.5 is not much different than my 2700K at 4.5....and although my cards are reference, they still overclock great and boost to almost 1300MHz....so with those clocks I _almost_ hit 16K. With your setup being almost the same, weird that you are seeing such a higher score.








But if you can pull it, more power to ya! Share your secrets!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Everything was oc'ed though.
> The 3770K was at 4.5Ghz and i had the cards oc'ed as well.
> My rig is down right now adding some upgrades so i will post proof then give me about 2 weeks.


I would like to see proof as well. Maybe you had a 3rd card in there too







, ?

Anyways, I don't want to hound you but you're talking about scores in a different league which doesn't make sense without proof or a link:


----------



## nyk20z3

I ran it 3 times before any overclocking and i was around 16.5 then after i put the 3770k at 4.5 and used some oc specs out of the 670 overclocking thread it shot up to 19K +.

I was using the basic version so maybe that accounts for the high score.

And from i read the 3770K should out perform the 2700K clock for clock but but how much who knows.

I will re run the test once the comp is back up because i just checked 3dmark.com and i guess i never successfully created an account so i can't log in but i will check if i posted the 19k score some where.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I ran it 3 times before any overclocking and i was around 16.5 then after i put the 3770k at 4.5 and used some oc specs out of the 670 overclocking thread it shot up to 19K +.
> I was using the basic version so maybe that accounts for the high score.
> And from i read the 3770K should out perform the 2700K clock for clock but but how much who knows.
> I will re run the test once the comp is back up because i just checked 3dmark.com and i guess i never successfully created an account so i can't log in but i will check if i posted the 19k score some where.


Even the basic version will give you a score and you don't need an account. You can screen print your results or post the link. But, look at the ocn top dual gpu 3dmark11 scores and not a single 670 is there. I have heard of crazy high flukes but to rule them out, I recommend running two or three more runs and screen-print or save the links.

Until you get your proof, I can't say that's accurate. That's just way to high for a couple of 670s and an lga1155 cpu clocked "average". Sorry, I was and somewhat am still into benchmarking and it just doesn't sound right.

btw: if that was an "E-score" (Entry level) then I'm inclined to believe that







. Usually, ppl run Perfomance (P-score) and I'm seeing a trend moving on to Extreme (X-score).


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Looks like I'm in pretty big trouble right about now. Over the weekend I did a couple of things. Last week I bought some tubing from Home Depot with the anticipation of replacing the clouded Danger Den UV tubing I had in the case. Along with that, I bought a couple of sticks of Vengeance to solve my problem of the rig not firing up. So I in the process of removing the plumbing on the acrylic EK Supeme block... and some of you already know where this is going... a small chip came off the side of the threaded hole. My guess is that I didn't have the proper length of tubing from the top mofset (R4E), and the fitting wasn't aligned straight on. So as a result, when I removed the fitting, a chip of acrylic came off with it. The chip wasn't really all that big (smaller than half a pinky finger nail clipping), but apparently when I did a leak test, it leaked. Not by a lot, but enough to get 2 drops coming out every 5 seconds. The sliver of acrylic is gone, and apparently so are any remaining acrylic EK Supreme blocks from EK. Now I guess I'll have to find one somewhere. I'd hate to use the new crop circle one, so I hope to find one at some point... But after all, that, the damn thing still didn't fire up like it was suppose to. Compatible RAM and all.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Looks like I'm in pretty big trouble right about now. Over the weekend I did a couple of things. Last week I bought some tubing from Home Depot with the anticipation of replacing the clouded Danger Den UV tubing I had in the case. Along with that, I bought a couple of sticks of Vengeance to solve my problem of the rig not firing up. So I in the process of removing the plumbing on the acrylic EK Supeme block... and some of you already know where this is going... a small chip came off the side of the threaded hole. My guess is that I didn't have the proper length of tubing from the top mofset (R4E), and the fitting wasn't aligned straight on. So as a result, when I removed the fitting, a chip of acrylic came off with it. The chip wasn't really all that big (smaller than half a pinky finger nail clipping), but apparently when I did a leak test, it leaked. Not by a lot, but enough to get 2 drops coming out every 5 seconds. The sliver of acrylic is gone, and apparently so are any remaining acrylic EK Supreme blocks from EK. Now I guess I'll have to find one somewhere. I'd hate to use the new crop circle one, so I hope to find one at some point... But after all, that, the damn thing still didn't fire up like it was suppose to. Compatible RAM and all.


Reach for the PTFE ProfeZZor and see if that will solve the leak without having to purchase a new top or long enough to get a new top. I think you'd be surprised...









~Ceadder


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Even the basic version will give you a score and you don't need an account. You can screen print your results or post the link. But, look at the ocn top dual gpu 3dmark11 scores and not a single 670 is there. I have heard of crazy high flukes but to rule them out, I recommend running two or three more runs and screen-print or save the links.
> Until you get your proof, I can't say that's accurate. That's just way to high for a couple of 670s and an lga1155 cpu clocked "average". Sorry, I was and somewhat am still into benchmarking and it just doesn't sound right.
> btw: if that was an "E-score" (Entry level) then I'm inclined to believe that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Usually, ppl run Perfomance (P-score) and I'm seeing a trend moving on to Extreme (X-score).


I see a 3770K up there with 680's in sli in the 19k's and these 670 ftw's should be faster then a vanilla 680 or i could be mistaken.

I will work on getting some proof though as this was about 2 months ago and it's possible i am mistaken.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> My personal take on water-cooling:
> Water-cooling is a chaotic, never-ending, emotional roller-coaster. It's akin to falling in love with your worst enemy. It's an addiction that constantly keeps one wavering upon the tight-rope of separation between sanity and blissful ignorance. It's the adrenaline-filled excitement of a UPS or FedEx delivery, soon quelled by the heartache of an RMA, an excessive electric bill, or worse - the disdainful attitude of a significant other. It's hours upon hours of decisions and careful planning that often are thwarted within seconds of implementation. It's the culminating pinnacle in a pursuit of greater performance, which undoubtedly will also be the inexhaustible beginning of yet another, longer, more costly endeavor. Water-cooling is a story with more than one climax, an infinite story line, but never an ending...


this should be engraved somewhere on OCN, or at least on the WC forum. (and now i am afraid to start WC...)

btw, what temps do you all see with Ivy under water? because if it isn't that big of a difference then i'll just keep my Kuhler 920 (or swap to H100 or that ThermalTake one if it will ever reach to Israel's PC shops stock) and just go for one of those Arctic Hybrid cooling thingies since it is actually available in here.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> this should be engraved somewhere on OCN, or at least on the WC forum. (and now i am afraid to start WC...)
> btw, what temps do you all see with Ivy under water? because if it isn't that big of a difference then i'll just keep my Kuhler 920 (or swap to H100 or that ThermalTake one if it will ever reach to Israel's PC shops stock) and just go for one of those Arctic Hybrid cooling thingies since it is actually available in here.


Watercooling isn't really just about the temps. Its the aesthetics, reduced noise, the hobby, the data (Aquacomputer says hello), the challenge, the new toys, etc.

Ivy is going to hit it's limit due to the heatwall well before you would see the benefits of proper watercooling.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I see a 3770K up there with 680's in sli in the 19k's and these 670 ftw's should be faster then a vanilla 680 or i could be mistaken.
> I will work on getting some proof though as this was about 2 months ago and it's possible i am mistaken.


EVGA just calls their higher binned chips "FTW", "Classified", "Ultra", etc. and they usually come with an overclock. It still wouldn't make it better than a 680 once you start overclocking the 680. Its closer to a stock 680 though. EVGA makes a lot of variants of the same card. They try to plug in the many holes as possible which sometimes confuses ppl on what is better than what. For sure, it uses a 680 pcb but the core is just slightly higher binned than a vanilla 670. EVGA has placed lots of different cores on different pcb, mainly to attract water coolers or hardcore overclockers/benchers.

Impressive scores non-the-less. Try to squeeze a bit more to catch a spot on the Top Scores thread


----------



## nyk20z3

I will work on that sir thanks.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Watercooling isn't really just about the temps. Its the aesthetics, reduced noise, the hobby, the data (Aquacomputer says hello), the challenge, the new toys, etc.
> Ivy is going to hit it's limit due to the heatwall well before you would see the benefits of proper watercooling.


i know that, but its at least a part of the whole WC experience no?

that wall is temp wise or just MHz wise? (also, actually considering to remove IHS but only slightly)


----------



## wermad

Water cooling is addicting. We should just call it the crack of pc building


----------



## nyk20z3

I started with a H100 then have spent close to 2K since in water cooling upgrades.

I have issues to begin with because i am always looking for the next best thing i can add to keep me satisfied in 1 way or another. I will agree with every 1 that's it's very addicting and the way hardware changes so fast all of our wallets are doomed.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Water cooling is addicting. We should just call it the crack of pc building


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I started with a H100 then have spent close to 2K since in water cooling upgrades.
> I have issues to begin with because i am always looking for the next best thing i can add to keep me satisfied in 1 way or another. I will agree with every 1 that's it's very addicting and the way hardware changes so fast all of our wallets are doomed.


quite the dangerous hobby we have here...

btw, if the vrm cooling of the card is already very good, should i consider going universal? (the Sapphire HD 7950 950 MHz Edition has great vrm cooling, one google search actually got me to a to someone who compare the cooling of the stock 950 mhz of the vrm to a full cover block and there is a very little difference)


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Water cooling is addicting. We should just call it the crack of pc building


+1

The aftermath of yet another loop re-build. Hundreds of dollars sitting on a table, now worth pennies on the dollar:


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> +1
> The aftermath of yet another loop re-build. Hundreds of dollars sitting on a table, now worth pennies on the dollar:


Do i see there the Bitspower CPU block?


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Do i see there the Bitspower CPU block?


Yuppers, one in a long list of blocks I've tried.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Water cooling is addicting. We should just call it the crack of pc building


And overclocking would be the heroin of the pc usage?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i know that, but its at least a part of the whole WC experience no?
> that wall is temp wise or just MHz wise? (also, actually considering to remove IHS but only slightly)


Heat wall is temp wise. You'll hit volts/frequency that just make the temps skyrocket no matter what you do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> And overclocking would be the heroin of the pc usage?


I'd say that's accurate. It can cause major damage to your system, just like heroin! Proc's OD'ing on volts at a young age is always such a sad thing.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Water cooling is addicting. We should just call it the crack of pc building


Well then I must confess, I'm a crackhead


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well then I must confess, I'm a crackhead


we're all brother and sisters united in the giant buzz of our dependance... Peace...


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Heat wall is temp wise. You'll hit volts/frequency that just make the temps skyrocket no matter what you do.


but there is still a difference between Air and water right? (also, evn if the temps skyrocket, removing IHS and replacing the tim shaves off ~10C no matter what no?)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I'd say that's accurate. It can cause major damage to your system, just like heroin! Proc's OD'ing on volts at a young age is always such a sad thing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well then I must confess, I'm a crackhead


i must say that we all have a serious problem here


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> but there is still a difference between Air and water right? (also, evn if the temps skyrocket, removing IHS and replacing the tim shaves off ~10C no matter what no?)
> i must say that we all have a serious problem here


So you'll run at 95C instead of 115C when you get there. And that's when the wall has only been *slightly* crossed. Keep going and it'll go higher at a very fast rate.

This is why people who want to get into that 5.0GHz range are sticking with Sandy. You'll see tons of posts of people wanting to trade 3770Ks for 2600/2700Ks. Or at least, there were for a long while.


----------



## ugotd8

Since we're waxing philosophical on water cooling. It occurred to me that in the watercooling pursuit, never has the law of diminishing returns been in fuller effect.









In otherwords, for the money I've spent building/rebuilding my loop I could have had two computers running at 4.5 instead of one running at 5.0.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Since we're waxing philosophical on water cooling. It occurred to me that in the watercooling pursuit, never has the law of diminishing returns been in fuller effect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In otherwords, for the money I've spent building/rebuilding my loop I could have had two computers running at 4.5 instead of one running at 5.0.


So true.

I am really really glad I do have a secondary gaming rig to use while I tear down my main rig for loop rebuilding. In that process right now, and I don't feel rushed at all. I can just take my time getting everything the way I want it.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> but there is still a difference between Air and water right? (also, evn if the temps skyrocket, removing IHS and replacing the tim shaves off ~10C no matter what no?)


According to IHS Removals, How to do it, Should I do it, and the Facts! (here at OCN), temps between removed soldered IHS and keeping the soldered IHS in-place are *under 4°*. I would say It's not worth it unless you have some alien heat-warping material. Your Mileage May Vary.
Oh, and the difference between air and water differs largely depending on the quality of the cooling itself. I heard of air coolers quieter than liquid, at same temps, and I heard of hotter processors under water. But generally speaking, from what I gathered, as soon as you move from stock cooling to liquid, you get around 10 to 20° for sure. My personal experience? My only air experience at 4.0GHz on my X6 was 67°C Idle. I have *check temps* 22°C right now with a simple Corsair Hydro H80


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> So you'll run at 95C instead of 115C when you get there. And that's when the wall has only been *slightly* crossed. Keep going and it'll go higher at a very fast rate.
> This is why people who want to get into that 5.0GHz range are sticking with Sandy. You'll see tons of posts of people wanting to trade 3770Ks for 2600/2700Ks. Or at least, there were for a long while.


is it only on the WC part or the IHS removal part? (but anyway, even if there is a wall, WC is quieter and pretier







)
i admit that i too wanted to go sandy to reach the 5 ghz mark, but i dropped the idea quickly since i can live without +400 mhz and with PCI-E 3. (though, if i'll find second hand 2600k/2700k for a great price i might buy it in addition, you know because its OverKill.net







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Since we're waxing philosophical on water cooling. It occurred to me that in the watercooling pursuit, never has the law of diminishing returns been in fuller effect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In otherwords, for the money I've spent building/rebuilding my loop I could have had two computers running at 4.5 instead of one running at 5.0.


thats a scary statistic, but then again its OverKill.net
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> According to IHS Removals, How to do it, Should I do it, and the Facts! (here at OCN), temps between removed soldered IHS and keeping the soldered IHS in-place are *under 4°*. I would say It's not worth it unless you have some alien heat-warping material. Your Mileage May Vary.


but on Ivy it doesn't have soldered IHS, but a cheap TIM and most say the diff is ~10C
(but the real debate for me is either to remove IHS or get the intel Overclocking insurance thingy. any thoughts?)


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> but on Ivy it doesn't have soldered IHS, but a cheap TIM and most say the diff is ~10C


Oh, Sweeet. well yeah, if I was to remove the IHS i'd put some seriously badass TIM there.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> A 3770K at 4.5 is not much different than my 2700K at 4.5....and although my cards are reference, they still overclock great and boost to almost 1300MHz....so with those clocks I _almost_ hit 16K. With your setup being almost the same, weird that you are seeing such a higher score.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you can pull it, more power to ya! Share your secrets!


Check my sig for my best score with dual 7970's...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> And overclocking would be the heroin of the pc usage?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well then I must confess, I'm a crackhead


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> we're all brother and sisters united in the giant buzz of our dependance... Peace...












You guys made my day.

Even better, wife just texted me, 2nd gpu just got dropped off


----------



## Michalius

That's one understanding wife.

I've taken to have most of my stuff shipped via USPS priority so I can pick it up from the post office and sneak it into the hobby room









With the lengths I take, I sometimes wonder if an affair would be easier.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I've taken to have most of my stuff shipped via USPS priority so I can pick it up from the post office and sneak it into the hobby room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the lengths I take, I sometimes wonder if an affair would be easier.


wow


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> That's one understanding wife.
> I've taken to have most of my stuff shipped via USPS priority so I can pick it up from the post office and sneak it into the hobby room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the lengths I take, I sometimes wonder if an affair would be easier.


Easier ? Sure.

I think you found the one and only thing that would be more expensive in the long run than watercooling tho.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Since we're waxing philosophical on water cooling. It occurred to me that in the watercooling pursuit, never has the law of diminishing returns been in fuller effect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In otherwords, *for the money I've spent building/rebuilding my loop I could have had two computers running at 4.5 instead of one running at 5.0*.


Umm - don't post %@*! like that where my wife can read it...geeez


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> That's one understanding wife.
> *I've taken to have most of my stuff shipped via USPS priority so I can pick it up from the post office and sneak it into the hobby room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the lengths I take, I sometimes wonder if an affair would be easier.


oooh, thanks for the tip









Although, just today she was looking over my shoulder (again) and said "wow, if my laptop screen was that big I wouldn't need to wear my readers when I'm shopping online". I quickly informed her that a custom made PC in her choice of liquid colors could be assembled quite easily. She said, "really?" ....

Who knows, i may have another "addict" under my roof soon.
















and don't laugh when I post pics of a new build using Mayhem's Aurora with pink dye!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Can installing a waterblock on your videocard cause flickering to happen some how cause ever since putting my computer back together ive been getting flickering *ONLY* on the loading screens of my games, i even tried a different monitor and it does the same thing, tried different drivers, same thing happens, i dont get why everything was perfect and not this problem happens..... im so stump on what to do...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Check my sig for my best score with dual 7970's...


I've seen it, think it was in the photo wermad posted.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys made my day.
> Even better, wife just texted me, 2nd gpu just got dropped off


Oooo how exciting


----------



## KaRLiToS

Mod of the Month Contest - Poll up ! Vote Now. !

My Build Log is up

http://www.overclock.net/t/1311300/build-log-project-quad-damage/0_30


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Can installing a waterblock on your videocard cause flickering to happen some how cause ever since putting my computer back together ive been getting flickering *ONLY* on the loading screens of my games, i even tried a different monitor and it does the same thing, tried different drivers, same thing happens, i dont get why everything was perfect and not this problem happens..... im so stump on what to do...


Tried enabling v-sync? If all else fails, go back to the stock air cooler and test your gpu again. If the flicker goes away, something could be making a bad contact (bad mount or shouldn't be touching the block) and that could cause the card to have issues. Its a pita but its a good way to start eliminating possibilities of the culprit. Good luck and report back on your findings.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tried enabling v-sync? If all else fails, go back to the stock air cooler and test your gpu again. If the flicker goes away, something could be making a bad contact (bad mount or shouldn't be touching the block) and that could cause the card to have issues. Its a pita but its a good way to start eliminating possibilities of the culprit. Good luck and report back on your findings.


This.

EDIT:
@KaRLiToS: YUMMY.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> but there is still a difference between Air and water right? (also, evn if the temps skyrocket, removing IHS and replacing the tim shaves off ~10C no matter what no?)
> i must say that we all have a serious problem here


Crackhead?? understatement for me being i just took an inventoinventory of my wcing gear...all $5k of it lol and won't even mentimention the supporting hardware omg lol. Is there a 12 step proprogram? Cause i would so be in relapse lol


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Crackhead?? understatement for me being i just took an inventoinventory of my wcing gear...all $5k of it lol and won't even mentimention the supporting hardware omg lol. Is there a 12 step proprogram? Cause i would so be in relapse lol


first world problems...









(OCN should onclude a warning on the first time entering this site: "Warning! after visiting this website you might spend a fortune on PC hardware which would give you little, if any, return. You have been warned." and another warning at the WC forum, and the LN2 forum, and the case modding forum, and headphones and...)

we should be happy that PC hardware and WC is still legal


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> first world problems...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (OCN should onclude a warning on the first time entering this site: "Warning! after visiting this website you might spend a fortune on PC hardware which would give you little, if any, return. You have been warned." and another warning at the WC forum, and the LN2 forum, and the case modding forum, and headphones and...)
> we should be happy that PC hardware and WC is still legal










so true


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

It probably shouldn't still be legal. They should probably regulate it like gambling because we're all degenerate addicts...


----------



## InsideJob

The last two pages have been pure lulz


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> It probably shouldn't still be legal. They should probably regulate it like gambling because we're all degenerate addicts...


----------



## Tarnix

Laughing is fun, but *I think I need another dose* :addict face:


----------



## InsideJob

I wish I wasn't unemployed so I could get my first real "dose"








My Kuhler 620 isn't cutting it anymore


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tried enabling v-sync? If all else fails, go back to the stock air cooler and test your gpu again. If the flicker goes away, something could be making a bad contact (bad mount or shouldn't be touching the block) and that could cause the card to have issues. Its a pita but its a good way to start eliminating possibilities of the culprit. Good luck and report back on your findings.


ive already contacted evga to see what they say, if i have time this weekend i will take apart my loop and remount the block, but since im going outta town next Tuesday for work i doubt il have time ...


----------



## ginger_nuts

All this talk about spending pointless money on this crazy addiction,

right after sinking $300 on a new pump, res, fittings and tubing.

Dinner time at the table:

"Sorry children we can only afford baked beans on toast for dinner tonight" "BUT, Dad has some new things coming though"









(the above statement is not true, I would never spend we can't afford)


----------



## nyk20z3

Good thing i have no kids yet lol

BRB ordering another $300 worth of hardware!

We need to start a walk in clinic for this!


----------



## oblivion.sky

whats all this ruckus?

meanwhile........


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> whats all this ruckus?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> whats all this ruckus?
> meanwhile........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude, you need help...


----------



## oblivion.sky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Dude, you need help...


why oh why?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> ive already contacted evga to see what they say, if i have time this weekend i will take apart my loop and remount the block, but since im going outta town next Tuesday for work i doubt il have time ...


so disabling SLI gets rid of the problem....


----------



## golfergolfer

Spoiler: Warning: First One

















Spoiler: Warning: Second One






















Cant tell if fixed or if different angle.... But man I wish I could have your rig its so beautiful I am assuming you dont have a build log or anything? Nonetheless Stunning


----------



## oblivion.sky

its fixed







i just had to lift up the reservoir a little bit. thanks!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Dude, you need help...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> why oh why?


I think it's very apparent...this is serious matter, you sir, are addicted to water cooling.


----------



## oblivion.sky

i do have a build log







http://www.overclock.net/t/1308073/build-log-liquified


----------



## Akula

Not quite finished.
Silverstone TJ11 ~ Akula

I'll have my build log up in a few days - with 50+ pictures from start to now.
Any questions feel free to ask. Oh and Hello JSP =]


----------



## PCModderMike

Wow, that is super clean^ Please post the log when you get it up, I would really like to see more.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

You got rid of the air penetrator fans? Those are one of the things I love so much about this case...


----------



## PCModderMike

The AP181's? I think it looks almost cleaner without 'em


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Not quite finished.
> Silverstone TJ11 ~ Akula
> I'll have my build log up in a few days - with 50+ pictures from start to now.
> Any questions feel free to ask. Oh and Hello JSP =]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



So much win! Awesome job. Need more pics!


----------



## Akula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> You got rid of the air penetrator fans? Those are one of the things I love so much about this case...


They look nasty








Pointless having them with a loop anyway


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

What about with the side panel on? Did you cover up the holes? Regardless, I may be in the minority but I love the fans and the ducts in the case for them...


----------



## Akula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> What about with the side panel on? Did you cover up the holes? Regardless, I may be in the minority but I love the fans and the ducts in the case for them...


I actually ordered a new side panel from Silverstone without the ducts








Cost me and arm and a leg.


----------



## Dhalgren65

New loop!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> All this talk about spending pointless money on this crazy addiction,
> right after sinking $300 on a new pump, res, fittings and tubing.
> Dinner time at the table:
> "Sorry children we can only afford baked beans on toast for dinner tonight" "BUT, Dad has some new things coming though"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the above statement is not true, I would never spend we can't afford)


Who am I to judge...and what's wrong with beans and toast. I mean, they'll live - they're kids - they're resilient...right?...right?...aren't I right guys????? C'mon GUYS I'M RIGHT AREN"T I !!!!!!! FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT IS WATER COOLED TELL ME I'M RIGHT!!!!......PLEASE???

*sigh









(Am I the only guy who has laminated pics of water cooled rigs hanging in his bathroom?)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

No. You're not right unfortunately...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> No. You're not right unfortunately...


Thanks for bringing me back to reality.
Really nice builds going here guys and gals - good work!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well then I must confess, I'm a crackhead


+1


----------



## tsm106

I watercooled all the rigs in the house except the server. I need to update the pic of the woman's htpc.

Son's pc.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Not quite finished.
> Silverstone TJ11 ~ Akula
> I'll have my build log up in a few days - with 50+ pictures from start to now.
> Any questions feel free to ask. Oh and Hello JSP =]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Build.. Great Outdoor shots...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well then I must confess, I'm a crackhead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1
Click to expand...

I'm their Dealer an they're starting to get behind. Pay up gais if you know what's good fer ya.









~Ceadder


----------



## bomberjun

Should I change the transparent ones to Acetal too?


----------



## huzzug

i feel if you would just use the clear distilled, it would look killer


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Should I change the transparent ones to Acetal too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nonononono i love your build with the colour of the water and the blocks don'ttttt doooooo itttttt







but ah if you do I would buy the blocks off of you


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Should I change the transparent ones to Acetal too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


it'd be too much black when inside the case imo.

on another note...

i want attention too!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> it'd be too much black when inside the case imo.
> on another note...
> i want attention too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Every time I see this rig, I think Cryptonite.

The green and red look good.


----------



## george_orm

so running a universal water block on my gigabyte 560ti, the vrm heat sink ( stock) and the choke and the caps are all too hot to touch for long, i fold all day so i dont want my card dying any time soon, that plus it squeals like a banchy

some picks to show what i mean ( actually mine)



what should i do ? is it a problem ?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> so running a universal water block on my gigabyte 560ti, the vrm heat sink ( stock) and the choke and the caps are all too hot to touch for long, i fold all day so i dont want my card dying any time soon, that plus it squeals like a banchy
> 
> some picks to show what i mean ( actually mine)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what should i do ? is it a problem ?


How hot is hot? My 2x 560Ti folding 247 with DD FC blocks run in the high 50's when folding. Room is like 28C


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huzzug*
> 
> i feel if you would just use the clear distilled, it would look killer


Yeah, I tried distilled during my leaktest. looks awesome too!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> nonononono i love your build with the colour of the water and the blocks don'ttttt doooooo itttttt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but ah if you do I would buy the blocks off of you


Thanks mate! nah, cant sell this blocks since I do have another upcoming project this year.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> it'd be too much black when inside the case imo.


Yes! That's what Im trying to avoid, however, adding a colored coolant would be nice.. Still waiting for my icedragon nanofluid to arrive. why is it taking this soooo long..
@all thanks!


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> How hot is hot? My 2x 560Ti folding 247 with DD FC blocks run in the high 50's when folding. Room is like 28C


I don't have a way to measure it, the core is perfectly fine nice and cool, it's the VRAM and chokes, like I said I have to take my fingers off it in the first few seconds,
I have 3 80 mm fans blowing at it, more than stock, I just don't no how to make it cooler ?


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> I don't have a way to measure it, the core is perfectly fine nice and cool, it's the VRAM and chokes, like I said I have to take my fingers off it in the first few seconds,
> I have 3 80 mm fans blowing at it, more than stock, I just don't no how to make it cooler ?


How hot do they get,GPU VRMS can take up to 105-120C i believe.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> How hot do they get,GPU VRMS can take up to 105-120C i believe.


like i said i cant measure it, but its to hot to touch for more than 3 seconds
maybe im just being pedantic, but i want this thing folding till the day the sun stops rising, and that heat feels bad ?>


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> like i said i cant measure it, but its to hot to touch for more than 3 seconds
> maybe im just being pedantic, but i want this thing folding till the day the sun stops rising, and that heat feels bad ?>


You need this in your tool box. http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Temperature-Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1349173569&sr=8-2&keywords=temperature+infrared+gun


----------



## tiborrr12

Something that might be of interest to you:
http://cooledpc.com/


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> like i said i cant measure it, but its to hot to touch for more than 3 seconds
> maybe im just being pedantic, but i want this thing folding till the day the sun stops rising, and that heat feels bad ?>


If you can hold your finger on there for about three seconds I would at a guess say it maybe around the 60-70 Celsius mark, slightly hotter then hot tap water.

So do not panic, ever felt the chokes on your MB, or the NB heat sink, they get hot as well.

You have nothing to worry about.


----------



## george_orm

^ thanks all for your help.
I might grab that heat sensor, and if it gets bad as summer goes on I might make some heat sinks for it,
Thanks for the help,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something that might be of interest to you:
> http://cooledpc.com/


I would like to play in that but i have only a few EK fittings in my current build....my bench was all EK blocks tho.
Is it only open to EK products?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Looks like there is an open section. If I could just get some good pics of my rig I'd submit it...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> I watercooled all the rigs in the house except the server. I need to update the pic of the woman's htpc.
> Son's pc.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it, clean looking loop.


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something that might be of interest to you:
> http://cooledpc.com/


joined! thanks Tiborr!


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*
> 
> whats all this ruckus?
> meanwhile........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mother of god, it's so beautiful.

Will you please finish my rig for me? Kthx.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something that might be of interest to you:
> http://cooledpc.com/


Thanks Tiborr! I'll be sure to sign up, if I ever get this damned sleeving done


----------



## tiborrr12

Good, glad you stepped up!







Thanks everyone!


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> That's one understanding wife.
> I've taken to have most of my stuff shipped via USPS priority so I can pick it up from the post office and sneak it into the hobby room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the lengths I take, I sometimes wonder if an affair would be easier.


Lol, my wife calls my computer my second wife...

Side note, speaking of second wife. Looking to drain my setup here in the next couple days, fix my mistakes, do it right the second time around, using xspc coolant, would you use the coolant you drain or ditch it and start new? Got a new container to drain it in, it's. Get's spendy if you use vendor coolant vs filtered water (whatever the suggested is).


----------



## Lazy Bear

I'm not sure what you're asking, are you wondering if you should use your coolant to flush the loop or if you should use DI?


----------



## Roikyou

Asking if I should reuse the same fluid that I will be draining out of the loop and put it back in the loop or start out new (hopefully a little more clear)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something that might be of interest to you:
> http://cooledpc.com/


Thanks for the link .. Just for Fun, I made a submission with my Elysium Black Sniper..


----------



## Lidrager

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something that might be of interest to you:
> http://cooledpc.com/


Look at LIMITED CSQ requires:
- All EK products
- at least 3 EK CSQ product
Do i need to use EK-DCP pump or another pump with EK Top to meet requirement?


----------



## tiborrr12

Please read terms of use: http://cooledpc.com/terms

That means:
All EK products (Excluding Radiators, Pumps, FANs, Fittings, Tubing and Coolant) at least 3 EK CSQ water cooling products, all EK products that are available in CSQ design has to be CSQ design if released sooner than 2 weeks before the post of configuration.


----------



## Aniki84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Who am I to judge...and what's wrong with beans and toast. I mean, they'll live - they're kids - they're resilient...right?...right?...aren't I right guys????? C'mon GUYS I'M RIGHT AREN"T I !!!!!!! FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT IS WATER COOLED TELL ME I'M RIGHT!!!!......PLEASE???
> *sigh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Am I the only guy who has laminated pics of water cooled rigs hanging in his bathroom?)


Your damn right !


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Please read terms of use: http://cooledpc.com/terms
> That means:
> at least 3 EK CSQ water cooling products.


Bummer.. Only have 1 CSQ.. Oh well








There is still an open Category Though Correct?


----------



## tiborrr12

There are three categories, check the above link.


----------



## wermad

Took a big gulp (not the drink







) and ordered $80 worth of ek bridge and links system. Its pricey, its complex, but i need the support it provides for the bottom gpu. I don't like the sli links (phobya) and you can see the bottom card is sagging a bit. One slight movement of the bottom card and it leaks on the bottom fittings







. Spent all night drying the bottom card and redoing the block and tim. Luckily it was very little and a blow dryer does wonders







. I'm also super lucky I didn't short the card since i didn't power on the whole system. Good lesson for all the water noobs out there: jump start the psu and run the pump only to leak test. This isn't my final setup







. I'm going to rearrange things after I get different rad to replace the xt360.


----------



## tiborrr12

If you'll need any help just shout for help!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Who am I to judge...and what's wrong with beans and toast. I mean, they'll live - they're kids - they're resilient...right?...right?...aren't I right guys????? C'mon GUYS I'M RIGHT AREN"T I !!!!!!! FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT IS WATER COOLED TELL ME I'M RIGHT!!!!......PLEASE???
> *sigh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Am I the only guy who has laminated pics of water cooled rigs hanging in his bathroom?)


^^














^^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My color scheme.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *yikes! That pic, blurry that is. Apologies. Gonna have to check and see if I can't get my buddies digital cam to clean up my shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Black is too much and silver doesn't fit. Which is why I am considering white or some other color of fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ahh I see now.. I'm Trying to Visualize White fittings on with that White Tubing..









Can't help to wonder what Black Tube would look like in that setup.. As far as the Blurry pic.. It looks like the Focus Grabbed the Center Front Tube. Whatever you figure out I'm sure will be to your liking.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> If you'll need any help just shout for help!


Thanks, I'm good though







. I've installed a few bridges before so I'm pretty confident in installing it. The triple parallel is hard to find. I guess you guys are pushing the CSQ design, so this is EOL (gen one links and bridges)? Still, it provides a really strong connection with both blocks and that's a plus for a heavy card. I should have figured the heavy block was going to sag but in my urgency to get this setup I went with the sli fittings. I also like hte HK bridge but I got my blocks with one of the cards for a great deal that it was easier to run them rather than sell them and go with different blocks. One is an EN and the other is a regular nickel. I'm running naked w/ eventually Mayhems Deep Blue.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Took a big gulp (not the drink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and ordered $80 worth of ek bridge and links system. Its pricey, its complex, but i need the support it provides for the bottom gpu. I don't like the sli links (phobya) and you can see the bottom card is sagging a bit. One slight movement of the bottom card and it leaks on the bottom fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Spent all night drying the bottom card and redoing the block and tim. Luckily it was very little and a blow dryer does wonders
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm also super lucky I didn't short the card since i didn't power on the whole system. Good lesson for all the water noobs out there: jump start the psu and run the pump only to leak test. This isn't my final setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm going to rearrange things after I get different rad to replace the xt360.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tragedy Averted ... Lucky, GOOD SAVE . Thats really Starting to look Good..








Man your right about that Bottom card.. Quite an Angle to it


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> joined! thanks Tiborr!


Top rated








By a longshot it looks like as well!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Took a big gulp (not the drink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and ordered $80 worth of ek bridge and links system. Its pricey, its complex, but i need the support it provides for the bottom gpu. I don't like the sli links (phobya) and you can see the bottom card is sagging a bit. One slight movement of the bottom card and it leaks on the bottom fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Spent all night drying the bottom card and redoing the block and tim. Luckily it was very little and a blow dryer does wonders
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm also super lucky I didn't short the card since i didn't power on the whole system. Good lesson for all the water noobs out there: jump start the psu and run the pump only to leak test. This isn't my final setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm going to rearrange things after I get different rad to replace the xt360.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ahhhh! That's scary to think about. But glad you saved the card and all is sorted. Would like to see the end result when you set it up


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love my EK FC Bridge. Adds a solidity to the cards and looks pretty badass to boot!

This is pre-CSQ of course....


----------



## ugotd8

I'm really happy with the way this turned out, temps are great and it's near silent. Terrible pics don't do this thing justice. I'm gonna find a tripod this weekend.












Props to all the helpful people here (stren, tsm106, superericla, Karlitos, etc). Coolest group of crackheads on the net.


----------



## Michalius

Should rename the club 'WCA', Water Cooling Anonymous.

Hello, my name is Michalius and I'm an addict. It's been 13 days since I last bought anything from Performance PC's or Frozen CPU. Actually, I'm lying. I just bought some white stop fittings and temperature sensors on Friday. I can't help myself.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> I'm really happy with the way this turned out, temps are great and it's near silent. Terrible pics don't do this thing justice. I'm gonna find a tripod this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Props to all the helpful people here (tsm106, superericla, Karlitos, etc). *Coolest group of crackheads on the net.*










That's awesome LOL. Moar pics!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> I'm really happy with the way this turned out, temps are great and it's near silent. Terrible pics don't do this thing justice. I'm gonna find a tripod this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Props to all the helpful people here (tsm106, superericla, Karlitos, etc). Coolest group of crackheads on the net.


I like it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Should rename the club 'WCA', Water Cooling Anonymous.
> Hello, my name is Michalius and I'm an addict. It's been 13 days since I last bought anything from Performance PC's or Frozen CPU. Actually, I'm lying. I just bought some white stop fittings and temperature sensors on Friday. I can't help myself.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> I'm really happy with the way this turned out, temps are great and it's near silent. Terrible pics don't do this thing justice. I'm gonna find a tripod this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Props to all the helpful people here (tsm106, superericla, Karlitos, etc). Coolest group of crackheads on the net.


Is this where those AP-15's are going, that is just sexy.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Fittings
> 
> 
> 
> [imghttp://www.abload.de/img/img_8390qur9z.jpg[/img]


I love these fittings... they look so industrial.


----------



## D-Worx

Ok here we go then guys. Nothing special here...yet















Kit consisting of:

-EK Supremacy Block
-EK CoolStream 360 XTX rad.
-EK Silent fans x3
-EK MultiOption Reservoir X2 150ml
-EK DCP 4.0 Pump
-EK Screw on connectors.


----------



## nyk20z3

What fluid is that ? and it looks wicked!


----------



## PCModderMike

My first plunge into water cooling was buying an all in one kit from EK too. Welcome to the club of water cooling crack







We're here to support you when you empty out your wallet in a never ending obsession with this. Also my suggestion to you, as it was my 1st change to my kit, is to change out the tubing to something that holds up better to bends. Kind of looks like there is a kink coming off the CPU block and into the res. Overall looks good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> What fluid is that ? and it looks wicked!


That's the EK dye that comes with the kit.


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-Worx*
> 
> Ok here we go then guys. Nothing special here...yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kit consisting of:
> 
> -EK Supremacy Block
> -EK CoolStream 360 XTX rad.
> -EK Silent fans x3
> -EK MultiOption Reservoir X2 150ml
> -EK DCP 4.0 Pump
> -EK Screw on connectors.


I'm not really a fan of Thermaltake cases, but your rig looks pretty good overall.


----------



## D-Worx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> My first plunge into water cooling was buying an all in one kit from EK too. Welcome to the club of water cooling crack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're here to support you when you empty out your wallet in a never ending obsession with this. Also my suggestion to you, as it was my 1st change to my kit, is to change out the tubing to something that holds up better to bends. Kind of looks like there is a kink coming off the CPU block and into the res. Overall looks good.
> That's the EK dye that comes with the kit.


YES, correct!

I use Baxter Hypoton water in mys sytem with the EK additive. comes out super clear.

I also have the blue leds on, that give the system a pretty darn nice look. Uv makes the coolant a little whitish


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Every time I see this rig, I think Cryptonite.
> The green and red look good.


Haha thank you sir. The red and green is supposed to be the amd theme but most people forget there is a green arrow in the logo so no one realizes its the reason for why the color scheme is what it is.


----------



## D-Worx

Ok here are few mre that i just took. Notice that the room was pretty much pitch black dark, so the camera will react to those pc light strongly

Led only



UV only



Both on



Akasa fan control


----------



## wermad

Well, noticed that the second cores on each card was a bit too high. Took one out and noticed a lot of play on the washer for the mounting screws. Opened one block and sure enough, the second core barely made a tim smear on the block. Luckily, the seller included some addtional screws which may have been for a different block. Turns out they were 6mm vs the 8mm EK supplies. I could have used a thicker (1mm) washer or double the supplied washers (~1.1mm) but I couldn't mount my backplate







. Used the shorter screws, second cored dropped ~10c and the first core ~5c. Wow! Sure enough, just looking at the visible screws on the other block I noticed the washer had a lot of play. Going to do that now.

edit: Could be the block was not machined threaded properly (or deep enough) but then again the base is slightly thinner compared to single gpu blocks. I'm stuck though, since I only have four 6mm (m3) screws left and that won't be enough for the second block. Might have to order with McMasterCarr.com for some custom screws


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Something that might be of interest to you:
> http://cooledpc.com/
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link .. Just for Fun, I made a submission with my Elysium Black Sniper..
Click to expand...

i wonder if posting CLC is eligble


----------



## wermad

Quote:


>


Boss water cooling























Source


----------



## Michalius

Who needs Little Devil and Caselabs when you can pick up the highest quality case at your nearest U Haul Dealer?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-Worx*


Nice rig D-Worx, I really like the day shots you took!

I think it's only a matter of time until you have a GPU waterblock.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> 
> 
> Props to all the helpful people here (tsm106, superericla, Karlitos, etc). Coolest group of crackheads on the net.


We are a superb community. I am pretty glad to be part of it







.

Oh, and awsome Build. Case is neat.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Who needs Little Devil and Caselabs when you can pick up the highest quality case at your nearest U Haul Dealer?


Qft


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Boss water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source


Derp







lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Derp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Imagine a fridge box and the endless space in one







Could go all out crazy with a few Novas


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Should rename the club 'WCA', Water Cooling Anonymous.
> Hello, my name is Michalius and I'm an addict. It's been 13 days since I last bought anything from Performance PC's or Frozen CPU. Actually, I'm lying. I just bought some white stop fittings and temperature sensors on Friday. I can't help myself.


LMAO!









It's my first meeting....I'm not ready "share" yet....


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Boss water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source


+1 vote for mod-of-the-month!!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> I'm really happy with the way this turned out, temps are great and it's near silent. Terrible pics don't do this thing justice. I'm gonna find a tripod this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Props to all the helpful people here (tsm106, superericla, Karlitos, etc). Coolest group of crackheads on the net.


Looks like everything is coming along nicely.









[/off topic] The OCN folding team could always use some more people for the October Foldathon. There are prizes to be won as well. [/off topic]


----------



## hammerforged

EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=04G-P4-3689-KR

- $799

- 1150 MHz GPU

- 1215 MHz Boost Clock

- No Evbot connection (NO Voltage Adjustment)


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=04G-P4-3689-KR
> - $799
> - 1150 MHz GPU
> - 1215 MHz Boost Clock
> - No Evbot connection (NO Voltage Adjustment)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I saw they removed the Evbot support due to Nvidia's requirements or something along those lines. It's a shame.


----------



## LiquidHaus

anyone planning on some watercooled trinity builds?


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Looks like everything is coming along nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/off topic] The OCN folding team could always use some more people for the October Foldathon. There are prizes to be won as well. [/off topic]


I'm trying to get some WU submitted since I'm on another team (YEARS AGO). Been having Memory controller issues, forced to go back to stock








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I saw they removed the Evbot support due to Nvidia's requirements or something along those lines. It's a shame.


Yeah, I know. No voltage control is a shame on a water-cooled card. Seriously, *most* people who gets a water-cooled card _will_ overclock it...
EDIT: curious?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA_JacobF (EVGA Forums)*
> 
> It was removed in order to 100% comply with NVIDIA guidelines for selling GeForce GTX products, no voltage control is allowed, even via external device.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Boss water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source


I'll start the Bidding... 1 US Dollar







... Anyway Good for a Laugh.. Thanks..


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I'm trying to get some WU submitted since I'm on another team (YEARS AGO). Been having Memory controller issues, forced to go back to stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I know. No voltage control is a shame on a water-cooled card. Seriously, *most* people who gets a water-cooled card _will_ overclock it...
> EDIT: curious?


Here is the article I was referring to.


----------



## Tarnix

nice, someone already quoted it, lol.
Gah I can barely wait to get the funds for my next rig... I'm so excited!
I'm a *lot* less excited by the fact that I will have to switch my processor and motherboard sooner than planned, though. My memory controller is crapping out. My processor itself runs perfectly fine at 4.01GHz, (CPU stress tests are flawless) but RAM chokes very fast at anything else that stock now, on two different brand and models of RAM (Kingston ValueRAM 1333MHz 1.5v and Corsair XMS3 1600MHZ 1.65v, kingston actually gives me less problems ). So I'll have to do a race against the clock to buy the I7 and the Motherboard before my current motherboard throws the towel :/
anyway~
I want to see more rigs! *goes back to read everything unseen from 2009 to now*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its my birthday and i gots a new camera.....if only i knew how to use it......



















How can a half finished build with no GPU even get 15 votes in that comp??


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=04G-P4-3689-KR
> - $799
> - 1150 MHz GPU
> - 1215 MHz Boost Clock
> - No Evbot connection (NO Voltage Adjustment)


What's the point in Water cooling a GPU if you can't over volt it, lol fail EVGA.( Obviously for quiet GPU but come on.)


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> What's the point in Water cooling a GPU if you can't over volt it, lol fail EVGA.( Obviously for quiet GPU but come on.)


Read previous posts, it's not EVGA's choice. Nvidia forced it.


----------



## mandrix

I've read Nvidia rules with an iron fist. Play their game or get shut out.


----------



## Tarnix

Yeah, pretty much... But I hope someone figures one of the two things:

A workaround to re-enable voltage modding
Elimination of the need to over-volt (manually)


----------



## Indulgence

got no talent in taking good photos, just point and shoot.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Yeah, pretty much... But I hope someone figures one of the two things:
> 
> A workaround to re-enable voltage modding
> Elimination of the need to over-volt (manually)


The reason why they dont want to let you over volt...



A power phase is missing from the PCB.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The reason why they dont want to let you over volt...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A power phase is missing from the PCB.


Sad







Such a well built card with no over volting ability.


----------



## tiborrr12

Even if there were only three phases on the reference design PCB instead of five this would be enough for ~ 250W power on the long run.
Also, Classified is custom PCB with TI DrMOS/Chill control IC, similiar to that of HD 7970, which should be able to sustain 350-400W without a hiccup.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The reason why they dont want to let you over volt...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A power phase is missing from the PCB.


***?! Why would they do such a thing?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Even if there were only three phases on the reference design PCB instead of five this would be enough for ~ 250W power on the long run.
> Also, Classified is custom PCB with TI DrMOS/Chill control IC, similiar to that of HD 7970, which should be able to sustain 350-400W without a hiccup.


You know more about this than me Niko,your saying this is a purely Nvidiot castration,nothing to do with the VRMs?

Damn....


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The reason why they dont want to let you over volt...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A power phase is missing from the PCB.


That's when you find out the part number and solder one in yourself


----------



## tiborrr12

Hey, AMD did this with Cat 12.2 (disabled unofficial overclocking), nVidia is just following them.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my birthday and i gots a new camera.....if only i knew how to use it......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can a half finished build with no GPU even get 15 votes in that comp??


Happy "B"-day!







As for the rig,








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got no talent in taking good photos, just point and shoot.


Nice job on the loop. That's a good looking rig.


----------



## bomberjun

that is just so disappointing that nvidia and amd restricted us from overvolting..


----------



## bomberjun

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got no talent in taking good photos, just point and shoot.






Very nice loop indulgence!


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indulgence*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got no talent in taking good photos, just point and shoot.


Like it, neat and clean looking


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Some screen shots of the CPU and GPU temperature outputs on the Aquaero 5



















Folding with just the 360 Radiator and the evaporative cooler off: (PS I did not want to let it get any hotter so I turned on the evap cooler as seen in the next pic)










Folding with both the 360 Radiator and my evaporative cooler running:


----------



## chrisf4lc0n

And who said you could not fit 3x120 and 1x280 rads in R3, ok 280 is outside??










I know it is a bit messy, but I am working on it...


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Read previous posts, it's not EVGA's choice. Nvidia forced it.


hmm, well then thats stupid on nvidias card, probably to many warrantys used for burnt GPUS.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisf4lc0n*
> 
> And who said you could not fit 3x120 and 1x280 rads in R3, ok 280 is outside??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it is a bit messy, but I am working on it...


I don't see a 360 anywhere...


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> that is just so disappointing that nvidia and amd restricted us from overvolting..


I kinda like it though, let's see if you guys still know how to do a VR or VID voltmod


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I kinda like it though, let's see if you guys still know how to do a VR or VID voltmod


You shouldnt like it. Less of a reason to put cards under water for overclocking. Equals less money for you.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> You shouldnt like it. Less of a reason to put cards under water for overclocking. Equals less money for you.


ok... how may people put their stuff under water just too cool it? and how many do it because it looks cool?

I'm part of the 2nd crowd.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> You shouldnt like it. Less of a reason to put cards under water for overclocking. Equals less money for you.
> 
> 
> 
> ok... how may people put their stuff under water just too cool it? and how many do it because it looks cool?
> 
> I'm part of the 2nd crowd.
Click to expand...

I do it for silence and being able to move all dust collection to one RAD that I can clean just that.


----------



## tiborrr12

@hammerforged, Fuganater: True in both cases.


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> ok... how may people put their stuff under water just too cool it? and how many do it because it looks cool?
> I'm part of the 2nd crowd.


That's a tough question now because of the locked voltage..can I go both?









IMO, at first, I wanted to go full water because fermis are really hot if overclocked...

but in the end, the looks appeal more than performance in a rig show.

At the moment, its really hard to decide to go full water with the latest kepler cards since they're not really that hot.

If im on a really tight budget, I wont watercool my future kepler cards...

But...... the itch is just so hard to scratch if money is not an issue. The feeling of full LCS is just really fulfilling especially on a dead silent rig with an awesome loop.


----------



## protzman

im with bomber. literally its 100% show for me, kinda how i live my life







Practical, but looks are important


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> ok... how may people put their stuff under water just too cool it? and how many do it because it looks cool?
> I'm part of the 2nd crowd.


I do it for both.


----------



## hammerforged

I mean I have ref Gtx 680 with a fc block so I cant really say much since I cant overclock with voltage. I hate the noise and I love watercooling. I guess the real problem lies with the non ref cards with amazing coolers. Such as the Msi lightning fc blocks. The twin frozr cooler is outstanding. The only reason to put a block on those is for overclocking. Im not saying that Ek's sales are going to be hurting because they obviously arent. Its just not a good thing for the water cooling industry I believe.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> ok... how may people put their stuff under water just too cool it? and how many do it because it looks cool?
> I'm part of the 2nd crowd.


It's a little bit of everything for me. Definitely the cool factor plays a big role but with this kepler boost crap and the 70 c I would like to be able to cool my card a bit better so I can overclock it. Just for fun.







I also appreciate the silence as video card has always been the loudest thing for me.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I knew I wasn't going to get much if anything of a higher OC on my gtx690, but I knew I wanted a block for it none the less. Quiet and looks sweet!

For me, it just looks wrong to have a cpu watercooled, but no the gpus.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I knew I wasn't going to get much if anything of a higher OC on my gtx690, but I knew I wanted a block for it none the less. Quiet and looks sweet!
> *For me, it just looks wrong to have a cpu watercooled, but no the gpus.*


This







I can't wait to get blocks for my cards.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I knew I wasn't going to get much if anything of a higher OC on my gtx690, but I knew I wanted a block for it none the less. Quiet and looks sweet!
> For me, it just looks wrong to have a cpu watercooled, but no the gpus.


Agreed.


----------



## num1son

Clocks/Temps, Longevity (don't foget keeping stuff cooler is always better), Noise and Looks in that order. Looks are a bonus.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my birthday and i gots a new camera.....if only i knew how to use it......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can a half finished build with no GPU even get 15 votes in that comp??


Looks great B Neg! And yeah, I agree, Capt. Red shouldn't be winning.

I'd feel kinda cheated if he beats people like you.


----------



## kpforce1

Watercooling also helps alleviate unwanted heat within the case and main components (or at least to me it does).... meaning longer life of supporting components on the PCBs.







I'd like to think so anyway









I still do it mostly for the looks and noise (lack of).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Looks great B Neg! And yeah, I agree, Capt. Red shouldn't be winning.
> I'd feel kinda cheated if he beats people like you.


It all depends on how hard you spam your entry everywhere....im not really into that,but a half finished rig has no business being there TBH


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> ok... how may people put their stuff under water just too cool it? and how many do it because it looks cool?
> I'm part of the 2nd crowd.


Both.


----------



## Jorvin

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some screen shots of the CPU and GPU temperature outputs on the Aquaero 5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Folding with just the 360 Radiator and the evaporative cooler off: (PS I did not want to let it get any hotter so I turned on the evap cooler as seen in the next pic)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Folding with both the 360 Radiator and my evaporative cooler running:






I'm really love this ring grate jobb







but can't understand how it works


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my birthday and i gots a new camera.....if only i knew how to use it......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can a half finished build with no GPU even get 15 votes in that comp??


i wish i have the funds. no, i am not building . . . i am buying that!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> ok... how may people put their stuff under water just too cool it? and how many do it because it looks cool?
> I'm part of the 2nd crowd.


looks but after installing the gpu block i changed my priorities . . . from 60C playing games with the powerful widforce down to 40C with the ek.

vrms are showing 45 - 48 loaded. love it! cpu temp went up 5 - 8C (52-55C) at 4.5GHz. need another 120mm.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some screen shots of the CPU and GPU temperature outputs on the Aquaero 5
> Folding with just the 360 Radiator and the evaporative cooler off: (PS I did not want to let it get any hotter so I turned on the evap cooler as seen in the next pic)


I really, really like this. A lot.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my birthday and i gots a new camera.....if only i knew how to use it......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Happy B day and Wow your off to a good start with that New Camera


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I knew I wasn't going to get much if anything of a higher OC on my gtx690, but I knew I wanted a block for it none the less. Quiet and looks sweet!
> For me, it just looks wrong to have a cpu watercooled, but no the gpus.


I totally Agree with that..


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Looks great B Neg! And yeah, I agree, Capt. Red shouldn't be winning.
> I'd feel kinda cheated if he beats people like you.


Don't worry, it won't beat any of the nicest rig out there with its current state.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It all depends on how hard you spam your entry everywhere....im not really into that,but a half finished rig has no business being there TBH


Give me a month.
Oh and btw, there's no intense spamming going on. So cheers!


----------



## kpforce1

For anyone interested.... I just discovered the egg is selling the SR-2 mobo for $369.99 and free shipping. Why do I always find these things after I already buy something? *sigh*


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Should I enter my rig into that contest? I wish I had some really good pics...


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> ok... how may people put their stuff under water just too cool it? and how many do it because it looks cool?
> I'm part of the 2nd crowd.


While it does look cool, I put my CPU and GPU's underwater to make things nice and cool.. not to mention QUIET. It's nice not hearing the GPU fans whirlin up when they start to get hot. Now, it's practically silent, and cool.. Looks cool too.


----------



## chrisf4lc0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I don't see a 360 anywhere...


It is not 360 it is 3x120








Here you go I will point them out for you:


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Should I enter my rig into that contest? I wish I had some really good pics...


Dont see why not! Id vote for it. Even better you dont have the CSQ design. Should be first place right there ha. Sounds like DSLR is in your furture. I cant justify it though cause I dont take enough pics.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> This. My 2700K at 4.5 with my *couple* of 670's will do almost 16K.


Man I had way higher expectations of 670s , I had even considered upgrading the 570s for a single 670 eventually but it wouldnt be worth it !!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> For anyone interested.... I just discovered the egg is selling the SR-2 mobo for $369.99 and free shipping. Why do I always find these things after I already buy something? *sigh*


Pretty sure I hate you now.... Just paid off my newegg card....


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Pretty sure I hate you now.... Just paid off my newegg card....


lol....yeah it makes me angry that I bought my sr-2 last week at the lowest price I could find new and it was over $100 more than what the egg has it for sale for right now







I did catch the GTX 670 FTW 4Gb they have for sale at $468 though


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Man I had way higher expectations of 670s , I had even considered upgrading the 570s for a single 670 eventually but it wouldnt be worth it !!


Ooooh no no....getting rid of two 570's for a single 670, don't do it.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Here goes nothing. What do you guys think of it?


----------



## Fuganater

^^ Very nice clean loop man.


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Here goes nothing. What do you guys think of it?


Me likey, looks very clean, you probably could have gone without the angle compressions though, looks good


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Here goes nothing. What do you guys think of it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Indeed, it is very clean. I really like the CPU block. What tubing are you using?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> Me likey, looks very clean, you probably could have gone without the angle compressions though, looks good


I tried that but it looked a mess. I hate tube touching each other. Not healthy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Indeed, it is very clean. I really like the CPU block. What tubing are you using?


Feser Tube Hose
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/feser_tube_hose_-_3_8_id_-_1_2_od_-_clear_uv_blue_1_-/


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Man I had way higher expectations of 670s , I had even considered upgrading the 570s for a single 670 eventually but it wouldnt be worth it !!


Yeah, I had two 480's in SLI @ 900/2200 and they were definitely faster than my 670 FTW.... however, I "upgraded" for the 4gb of VRAM because I game in surround














Now I have another 670 FTW 4gb on the way because in the words of Scotty "I don't have the power captain" lol


----------



## koniu777

Storm Scout 2 under water


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Storm Scout 2 under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


[/SPOIL]

super clean dude!!! super clean


----------



## Michalius

Nice! Been waiting for some Scout 2 WC pics!

Looks fantastic. I think the Scout is one of the only 'aggressive' type cases that I still pine for.


----------



## koniu777

thx guys, i really like the case, build quality is top notch the case is small but it has a good layout inside and plenty of room behind mobo for cable management.


----------



## PTCB

Hope to join in soon. Here're some shots from my build.


----------



## protzman

i watched the vids on the storm scout 2 and didnt really like it too much, but man, that looks good


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Here goes nothing. What do you guys think of it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That Block!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Storm Scout 2 under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not gonna lie, I like that case and I like the loop. Super Clean.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Hope to join in soon. Here're some shots from my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I want that mobo. Must see that loop finished.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Storm Scout 2 under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


SEXY RIG! No wonder someone said your rig is won and best of 2012 year! BTW: congrats! enjoy with your WC rig for years.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hope to join in soon. Here're some shots from my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Super-beautiful!


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Hope to join in soon. Here're some shots from my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Asus should have made the X79 mobo the same way, I just love the black cover of that mobo, hate how my Sabertooth X79 looks.


----------



## PTCB

Thank you for all the positive feedback, guys. I'll post some more pics once it's finished.









Now in the meantime, here's how much an EVGA GTX670 FTW with the Razor block+fittings and EVGA backplate on weigh.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Storm Scout 2 under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hot damn!


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Storm Scout 2 under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, excellent work. The Scout II looks to be a promising case.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Thank you for all the positive feedback, guys. I'll post some more pics once it's finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now in the meantime, here's how much an EVGA GTX670 FTW with the Razor block+fittings and EVGA backplate on weigh.


That is one damn heavy card + block.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Thank you for all the positive feedback, guys. I'll post some more pics once it's finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now in the meantime, here's how much an EVGA GTX670 FTW with the Razor block+fittings and EVGA backplate on weigh.


You should fill it with Distilled add some hose too otherwise your measurement is off.









Looks good though.









~Ceadder


----------



## koniu777

Thx guys







glad you like what I did with the new scout, the case is real nice and capable of watercooling with some minor mods.


----------



## Tarnix

@koniu777 Please tell me that plastic "handle" is perfectly centered with the fan... Otherwise I would chop it off... Blocking a fan is a no-no for me.








I am ordering my *MSI Bing Bang Z77 Mpower* mobo this month
Still far from water-cooling, but at least it's going somewhere







Gotta hate slow Paypal transfers w/o credit card and no job... Let's see... If I save a minimum of 50$ per month for my next build... I should have it done near Xmas 2013 >.>

At least I'm going to save NCIX shipping costs


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> @koniu777 Please tell me that plastic "handle" is perfectly centered with the fan... Otherwise I would chop it off... Blocking a fan is a no-no for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am ordering my *MSI Bing Bang Z77 Mpower* mobo this month
> Still far from water-cooling, but at least it's going somewhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta hate slow Paypal transfers w/o credit card and no job... Let's see... If I save a minimum of 50$ per month for my next build... I should have it done near Xmas 2013 >.>
> At least I'm going to save NCIX shipping costs


the handle is in the center of the fan, right where the bearing is, but it's also and inch higher then the fan so its not blocking any airflow


----------



## carrotguy

.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Here goes nothing. What do you guys think of it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sharply Dressed.. I like..


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotguy*
> 
> Hello, OCN people! My name is Carrotguy, as I own Carrot Computing, which is a small town PC repair company, which is not trying to sell to you, just explaining my name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: LONG!
> 
> 
> 
> I have skimmed almost this entire LC forum and would now like to begin participating myself. With that being said, Im just gonna dive right in with what Ive done, and so I have built a little log for you. Other than that, I am a fellow geek, and I am looking forward to discussing LC with you guys in the near future.
> Lian Li TU200 CPU/GPU Liquid Cooled Build
> Custom Build Name: Doxbox (The computer doctors box)
> Key Features: A small and portable, work on the outside, gamer and wow on the inside, with external rad option and internal/external modular liquid connections, build.
> Personal Notes: Before I even begin, I want to mention the number one thing I have learned. This gets expensive!! Be warned all noobs!! 
> I built/am building (started mid September ETC mid October) this computer as a portable work rig, and wanted it to be my main rig also. I wanted the Lian Li TU200 as it was the smallest full featured case I could find,, and the build in handle is great.
> One thing I had to have in a work rig, was a 2.5 and 3.5 hotswap external bay, which really complicated my decision to go liquid. But, so would have the handle. Luckily, the newer components I chose are very low TDP compared to their former counterparts,, the CPU at 77W, and the GPU at <200W,, so I felt as though I could get away with two smallish rads, a 1x140mm thick and a 1x120mm slim rad, both from alphacool. I learned from martins liquid labs that stacking rads (making them extra thick) had next to no effect after around 80mm, in addition to more fans needed, so I did not consider stacking. I can already see, from what I have as my projected finished build, that I may be able to fit a 3rd rad under the gpu as well, but I will come back to that at a later date. I have already changed my design since I began this project, like deciding to add a 2nd rad and modding the rear and may change more as I go along. One thing I lol at now, is how heavy it will be.
> I also wanted the Liquid cooling to be modular. At least 1 of every two sides of tubing will have a Quick Disconnect set on it so I can remove and replace individual parts and tubing, without having to dismantle. The whole dismantling to repair is what has really held me off from Liquid Cooling for so long, so this is a must for me. Being my first time, surely I will need to redo things right? In the future I want to see how cheap I can liquid cool, but I really wanted this to be a special and unique build.
> Personal Info: I have built near 500 computers, but never a liquid build before. (1 with the Zalman Ultimate allinone closed loop, but that's not custom.) I feel very confident in building PC's, but have very little modding experience and am here to work on that. That being said, I like to think I learn well from others online (even if I rarely participate back) and want to make this log, from a beginners perspective, for other beginners, and to take opinions from the experienced and learn how to do better the next time. I can already tell you, half way into modding, that I have learned a lot, and would have already changed a few things, and recommend that others just go ahead and start somewhere, cause the missing pieces will immediately start falling together and you will have a better understanding.
> Components:
> Main System
> Case: Lian Li TU200
> Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe
> CPU: Intel i7 3770k
> GPU: Gigabyte 670 GTX 2GB Windforce
> RAM: Currently G.Skill 2x4GB @2133, but I plan to go G.Skill or Geil 2x8GB @2400
> PSU: Silverstone ST45SF-G 450W SFX modular PSU
> Internal HDDs: 256GB Samsung 830 SSD (2.5"x7mm), 2TB 3.5" HDD
> Bay Devices: Dual hotswap 2.5 and 3.5 with USB 3.0 ports bay device, Lamptron 30W 4 fan and 4 temp controller.
> Switches: Rear On/Off Bulgin switch, Rear Fan LED On/Off Bulgin Switch.
> Cooling Connections: External Quick Disconnect Modular Liquid Cooling Connection.
> Other: Cigarette/DC lighter and plug. Custom GPU Support. Sound Dampening material, MNPC Micro ATX Case feet. Black Cable Braiding.
> Notes 1: No Ram Height Restriction, this 670 has a 680 PCB requiring a 680 Block, PSU mounted internally. No Reset Switch. (Do I need one?) The PSU is a smaller SFX form factor and fully modular and basically the best at its size. Adding a secondary PicoPSU is always an option if necessary.
> Notes 2: Without the external rad, I have potential for overheating and overclocking is doubtful, and playing games at default clocks will probably last an hour before too much heat, but,,, I figure, worst come to worst, this is great build with a i7 I could underclock and a 670 I could underclock with negligible performance differences and last longer. When Im at home with the external rad (later date), I can go full blast.
> Notes 3: I may add internal lighting and a reservoir.
> Notes 4: Ill get this braiding done eventually.
> 
> Cooling Parts:
> Pump and CPU block: Swiftech Apogee II 1155 block with MCP35x? pump. (I forget exact one, will correct later)
> GPU Block: Heatkiller 680 Black Nickel with matching Backplate (Fit like a glove)
> Radiators: Alphacool 1x140 UT60 and 1x120 ST30
> Fans: Currently, 1x120 and 1x140 BitSpectre Pro white leds and 1 Scythe 120 slim fan.
> Temp Sensors: 4 G1/4 mf inline sensors at exits of CPU, GPU, 120Rad and the 140Rad.
> Other: 4-6 sets of Koolance Quick Disconnects, modular connections. Filport. ½" Tygon braided reinforced tubing. A whole mess (actual quantity) of 45 and 90 rotary adapters, and mm ff adapters.
> Notes 1: In adding a second, well placed rad, I was required to seriously begin modding the case. I decided to mount a small PSU up top and make a custom rear backplate. I have never modded before, and though I might of done it completely by myself now that I have a feel for it, I heard of emachineshop.com and ordered a custom aluminum backplate and internal mounting brackets, allowing me to mount and support the PSU above the MB, support the front fan controller, and mount a fan/rad in addition to switches, an external pci opening and support and PSU plug socket. More notes on that below.
> Notes 2: Air flow currently comes in through the bottom of the case and out the front and rear radiators, but perhaps it will end up going out of the bottom, rear and front and coming in through the top with added vent ports. Will need to consider the weight and if I would like to weaken the handles surrounding support with vent holes.
> Notes 3: I will probably add and change fans a little. The Scythe was perfect fit prior to the GPU block, but now I could use a larger or thicker fan, perhaps a matching 120 or 140, but am still thinking about what to do with the extra space below the GPU.
> Notes 4: I intended to have an internal shutoff valve and extra line H setup with valve in the - to the external rads, so that all I would have to do is plug in the external rad and close the valve, and it would addin the extra cooling and flow accordingly, and unplug and open the valve to change it back to standalone. I now have to wait till I get the bracket in to determine this, and may just end up having extra modular tube lines, that I would replace as needed for external radiator.
> 
> Other Notes: The GPU with fitted backplate and block is now Heavy! I felt necessary to add bottom support since the GPU is on its side and supported only by the PCI bracket.
> Mods Required:
> Front: Dremelled extra 5.25 slim bay for fan controller and removed front On/off, Reset switches. (still working on this)
> Top: Added 1" hole for Filport.
> External Sides: None
> Internal Sides: Sound Dampening Material.
> Bottom: Drilled Holes for custom GPU support and will add for fan when I finalize.
> Rear: Custom Bracket from emachineshop
> Inside: Added custom support brackets, removed HDD cage,
> Notes 1: Added/ing Sound Dampening Material anywhere I can.
> Mod Tools used:
> Dremel with sanding and metal cutting bits, Power Drill with drill bits for screw holes and hole saw bits for larger holes. Jigsaw for larger straight cuts. Heatgun for shrinkwrap. Work Bench and Safety Goggles, in addition to the regular PC tools.
> Notes: I can always use Rubber C-Strips if my lines aren't pretty.
> Custom Bracket Notes: emachineshop
> This isn't an ad, but it was a cool experience, and could be worthwhile to some, so I want to give emachineshop.com a shoutout. I basically spent $100 and CAD drew a design with their software (tech savvy people will figure it out) and made a backplate that I will mount on a hole I will cut in the back of my case. I ordered it last week and will receive it mid October. This is a really cool way to get something custom, just right&#8230; if you got the money. It does get affordable with quantity so great for a small business, not perfect for an individual. This did limit my design as I found each metal bend added about $50 on 1 qty, so I decided to make parts I could bend myself. Also, getting a real finishing, like with a black powdercoat or a brushing added roughly $70 so I decided that I could do that on my own for less, but I am just guessing I have not worked on the paint/dye yet. There are several other things you could do special but they all added cost and I decided $100 was the limit. Here is a pic of what I have ordered with a pic of the case below it. (my case is black though) It is 1.6mm thick unfinished aluminum and cost just under $100 with shipping.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The backplate with (from top left) a power socket hole, a cig lighter hole, an On/Off switch hole, a fan LED switch hole and a PCI opening. (intended for external rad mount, but I have found I may have a problem which I will confirm mid October.) That is a 120mm fan hole. The two identical pieces to the upper right of the main bracket is for the front fan controller so that it can hang from the bay device above it. Any skinny piece of metal on remaining parts is intended to be bent at a 90 degree angle. The bigger side piece will hold the PSU above the motherboard internally and, with bends in place, will screw to the back of the internal bay device support and to the two screw holes placed just below the PSU socket hole on the main bracket. The two pieces to the left will screw into the TBD screw holes on each side of the bigger side piece to hold the PSU. 1 of the two remaining pieces will hold the PSU from the front or rear. The last piece will be a PCI support for the additional PCI device so it can screw in like normal. I will be adding Sound material to the PSU brackets. The PSU should have the option of being loose or screwed in and be stable, without voiding warranty. If loose is stable, that's probably what I will do, it will be tight up there and sound foam will pad it.
> I now know I may should have swapped the locations of the switches and the PCI bracket, or just made two 20mm holes for the rad QD outlets, but I will know soon enough. Cant believe I made a sloppy decision on that part, but I was tired and had redesigned it for days. If all else fails I will cut my own piece of medal, now that I have gained confidence from modding the front. So, while I praise emachineshop, if you, the individual, ever plan to do this again, go ahead and buy the tools and do it yourself, it will be worth it. If you need perfection,, and have money, go there.
> If everything goes right for me though, this may end up being perfection for under $150, as I can sand it or finish it on my own Im sure, round the edges, place a few additional holes, as well as add black finishing of sorts.
> This is also all 2D though, 3D would have been more.
> Here are some pics of everything, minus the custom backplate and a lot of the rotary adapters, that I have so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front of the case with modded out space for extra 5.25 bay. A little scratching I will have to cover up, but I will come up with that solution anyways for my backplate. It also turns out I will need to go down about 2 or 3 more mm in to the grill, or up, as both devices barely don't fit yet. But I have to figure that out and will soon enough.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added in GPU supports,, need addtl nuts on left one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MB with block, pump and ram, PSU, Samsung 830 SSD, Scythe 120 slim fan and cig lighter.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 670 with 680 block and Backplate. Backplate is identical length.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front bay controllers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the QD's a few rotarys and some tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pics show a mostly completed build minus the fittings, tubings and backplates, and is how I have had the PC for a while now while determining fittings needed and dimensions. As you can see, the 60mm rad and 25mm fan are a glove fit with this GPU. GPU must go in last lol. What to do (besides mount a fan) with all the extra space below? I can put my two internal hdds seemingly anywhere. Also, the back fan and rad will be in reverse positions, with the fan on the back of the case and the rad on it,, like the front rad and fan are.
> Would like to change: There are currently 4 USB3.0 ports on the front, with 2 of them being internally wired to 2.0. There is also an extra SATA or eSATA port in the same bottom front location. I would like to make them functional via a usb 3.0 internal hub and sata device or remove and replace that area altogether. I would like it to work correctly if it is on there. I have no extra SATA ports or internal USB 3.0 ports available.
> Please comment on my project and give opinions and advice and support me while I near the final stages of this (to me) monster of a project.
> Thanks and I look forward talking to you.
> CG


Hello CarrotGuy and welcome to OCN!
As much as I like seeing a new face around, this post seems a bit huge for this thread. Far from me the desire to put you down, but rather I'd like to suggest you to post your build log in the Case Mods Work Logs section, where we generally put them. Your finished pictures are however more than welcome here, or at least "intermediate usable state" if you are working on a non-finished build.

Sorry if it comes off a bit snotty, that's not the intention.

EDIT: Looking good!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Thought I would just upload some photo's of what I am working on.

This is what my CM690 II Advanced use to look like:


So I got bored and wanted to water cool my GPU's. So several hundred of dollars later I get to do that.

I also decided to make a side window and add a new Koolance pmp-500 pump, a alphcool res. and a ex240 rad.

Along with painting a new scheme, of Siver, Yellow and Blue.

But in the mean time I have been using this setup:


I plan to have my build finished on this weekend or early next week.


----------



## bomberjun

PTCB!!! You amazed me with your build! sleek looking man!


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> PTCB!!! You amazed me with your build! sleek looking man!


Cheers, bro. Compared to your Blackbox, my rig pales in comparison. Nice tubing routing you got there in your rig, I'll do the same with mine.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Its my birthday and i gots a new camera.....if only i knew how to use it......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can a half finished build with no GPU even get 15 votes in that comp??


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Storm Scout 2 under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks really good. I still own my original Scout, and I've been anticipating the release of the Scout 2. Very happy to see someone get a nice loop in there so soon.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Storm Scout 2 under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


^this is why this thread is worth visiting. great job!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That looks really good. I still own my original Scout, and I've been anticipating the release of the Scout 2. Very happy to see someone get a nice loop in there so soon.


You should post a pic. The green looks good.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> You should post a pic. The green looks good.


Oh yea. Once I get it all finished up I might. Guess an H100 is still considered water cooling?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That looks really good. I still own my original Scout, and I've been anticipating the release of the Scout 2. Very happy to see someone get a nice loop in there so soon.


I did like my scout....

First 360 in the roof mod on OCN,maybe everywhere, no less.













DREMEL POWAH!!


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did like my scout....
> First 360 in the roof mod on OCN,maybe everywhere, no less.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DREMEL POWAH!!


Looks so clean! wow, except for the cables at the bottom i just hate seeing cables altogether, your water cooling would look better if the GPUS were water cooled i reckon


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did like my scout....
> First 360 in the roof mod on OCN,maybe everywhere, no less.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DREMEL POWAH!!


Wow! And I thought I was good getting the 240 for an H100 into mine! But yea, that's exactly what did all my cutting, my Dremel


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> Looks so clean! wow, except for the cables at the bottom i just hate seeing cables altogether, your water cooling would look better if the GPUS were water cooled i reckon


Its an old build when 5770s were popular....those were non ref cards,good vapor chamber coolers so it didnt need WC.

So old now......still the best AMD clocking board i have ever had tho...790XTA>990 FX....


----------



## Wolfgang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*


Is only One of your HDD's Plugged into SATA3?


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its an old build when 5770s were popular....those were non ref cards,good vapor chamber coolers so it didnt need WC.
> So old now......still the best AMD clocking board i have ever had tho...790XTA>990 FX....


Ah yes the 5770 I actually miss that card surprisingly.
Good system anyway!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow! And I thought I was good getting the 240 for an H100 into mine! But yea, that's exactly what did all my cutting, my Dremel


But you kept the handle,where as mine disappeared in a cloud of dremel dust....


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But you kept the handle,where as mine disappeared in a cloud of dremel dust....


Yea I still wanted it to be portable. Gotta get some gaurds for the rad still though.


----------



## conntick

Why you guys no use spoilers spoilers when quoting pics







!


----------



## PCModderMike

UH oh, spoiler police!







It's common to not spoiler tag a single photo....but for multiple photos, yes it's best practice to spoiler all the photos so it doesn't have to load all over again.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Why you guys no use spoilers spoilers when quoting pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


One pic is acceptable,more than one requires spoilers for the excess.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Why you guys no use spoilers spoilers when quoting pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Standard is to quote one pic and spoiler the rest. Some guys just don't know is all.









Ah.. I'm to slow...


----------



## Wolfgang

Sorry, Fixxed it so its just the One pic.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfgang*
> 
> Sorry, Fixxed it so its just the One pic.


Too late... you're grounded! lol go to your room and sit in the corner


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Not much more to do now,a little work on the front panel and some infill work inside....and a PSU cover....










Pr0n pics being done tomorrow...expect a deluge of hi res lovelyness.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not much more to do now,a little work on the front panel and some infill work inside....and a PSU cover....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pr0n pics being done tomorrow...expect a deluge of hi res lovelyness.










..... oh..... my.....sweet....5lb 6oz.... baby jesus







Pimptastic rig B Neg. Look forwatd to the HD computer pron haha. Makes me want to get my SR-2 build up and running even more


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not much more to do now,a little work on the front panel and some infill work inside....and a PSU cover....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pr0n pics being done tomorrow...expect a deluge of hi res lovelyness.


Super sexy build that 99.9% of us can only dream of but I must say it would look THAT much better with white lighting. That red lighting just turns everything red. it would be nice to see the colors of the hardware for what they are.


----------



## sunset1

OCN Hardware, the new Pr0n. Ah it even has the red light peep show. Been watching this build for a while now and its nothing short of amazing. Is it too late for MOTM? (Mod of the month. )
Sumset1

Edit: not allowed because its on other forums.. hrmmm
it needs to be shown to all. What about a honorable mention or something like that.. It would be nice for everyone to see this beauty. Besides 1st place is just not good enough for this masterpiece. Im thinking unoffical poll.. you have my vote. :> And my respect.
Sunset1


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> OCN Hardware, the new Pr0n. Ah it even has the red light peep show. Been watching this build for a while now and its nothing short of amazing. Is it too late for MOTM? (Mod of the month. )
> Sumset1


Because this build is on other forums,its not allowed to enter....

....which sucks royally.

You can petition for it to be allowed but dont hold your breath.


----------



## Wolfgang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not much more to do now,a little work on the front panel and some infill work inside....and a PSU cover....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pr0n pics being done tomorrow...expect a deluge of hi res lovelyness.


Sweet Jesus Christ...
Just, Epic.

(I am going with the rule: More then one pic THEN Spoiler Tags.)


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because this build is on other forums,its not allowed to enter....
> 
> ....which sucks royally.
> 
> You can petition for it to be allowed but dont hold your breath.


Same here


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

BNeg's rig puts mine to shame...


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Same here


So just because you are putting your build log on other sites you cannot enter the MOTM here? Wow









Seems kinda crazy. You guys have built some awesome rigs and put a ton of work into em. Deserve some


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Anybody wanna come shoot some pro shots of my rig so I can enter the EK contest???


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pr0n pics being done tomorrow...expect a deluge of hi res lovelyness.


Just saw this and Cried a little..







Fantastic Job!!!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Another rule says you cannot be sponsorred

If you are not sponsorred, I would allow you even if you have build logs somewhere else . I think they want more views.

What camera have you received for your birthday. I am also a newbie in photoshooting.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Any build log is eligible so long as it meets the following criteria:
> 
> It is posted by an Oveclock.net member
> 
> Any build that is being done by a member for another person is considered to be the entry of the person performing the work
> If there is question over who the credit for a build should go to, the build should not be considered eligible for nomination
> In the event multiple members have worked on a project, the project should only be considered eligible if one of the members was clearly the primary contributor of both inspiration and work (this rule will be enforced by the honor of the members involved unless contested, in which case a staff member will consider the issue and post a decision)
> 
> It is not posted on any other forums
> It is not a sponsored mod (as defined by the rules of the Sponsored Case Mods sub-forum)
> The mod is either in progress or recently completed
> 
> If the mod is in progress, it must be substantially on its way to completion; meaning that voters must be able to gain a solid impression of the quality and aesthetic of the final product from the current state of the project
> 
> There has been a new update to the build log within 3 months of the opening of nominations
> The build has not been entered in more than one previous MOTM


http://www.overclock.net/t/1183902/official-ocn-mod-of-the-month-contest-rules-and-discussion


----------



## KaRLiToS

Don't forget to vote for this month nominees. Vote fairly. Many great and original builds. Check the restless waffle. Total cost of the case is 7euro and its a very nice mod. Fully custom.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Don't forget to vote for this month nominees. Vote fairly. Many great and original builds. Check the restless waffle. Total cost of the case is 7euro and its a very nice mod. Fully custom.


Showing some love for the awesome 800D


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not much more to do now,a little work on the front panel and some infill work inside....and a PSU cover....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pr0n pics being done tomorrow...expect a deluge of hi res lovelyness.


Not a fan of the red lighting, I prefer the raw look of the components, blocks and the awesome piping work you did. But that's my opinion, still looks good though.


----------



## Michalius

I'm having the biggest crisis moment right now.

I found someone on another forum (NeoGAF) that can buy and ship me one of my Unicorn cases. Abee Acubic T180



















and then I log into OCN this morning, check my subs, and sure enough this gets posted in the Little Devil PC-V7 thread.



They're both the same price, right around $400. Which to choose.....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've been looking at the Nikon D3100. Does anybody have any experience with entry level DSLR's?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I'm having the biggest crisis moment right now.
> I found someone on another forum (NeoGAF) that can buy and ship me one of my Unicorn cases. Abee Acubic T180
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then I log into OCN this morning, check my subs, and sure enough this gets posted in the Little Devil PC-V7 thread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're both the same price, right around $400. Which to choose.....


That Chocolat Brown is Sexy.. Gets my Vote.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Actually I think I'm gonna go with the D5100. Maybe I can finally get some good shots of my rig...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Actually I think I'm gonna go with the D5100. Maybe I can finally get some good shots of my rig...


You have made a good choice there.. Cant go wrong with that. It will take stunning pics and should perform well in low light as well.. Good Luck


----------



## protzman

Thats ridiculous, that T180G is equal to 382 usd thats stupid but it look darn good. i would deff get that one if you were trying to decide because its way more exclusive


----------



## lowfat

The PC-V7 seems to be a well thought out case. It definitely would be my choice.


----------



## Michalius

I'm fairly certain I could squeeze in two 240mm rads in that T180 too. Would only require cutting the bottom, which doesn't bug me too much as it wouldn't really alter the outward appearance. Could be epic.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not much more to do now,a little work on the front panel and some infill work inside....and a PSU cover....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pr0n pics being done tomorrow...expect a deluge of hi res lovelyness.


There's justice for your rig, HI-RES-PICS!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've been looking at the Nikon D3100. Does anybody have any experience with entry level DSLR's?


I started with D3100, used it for couple of months, then upgraded to D90.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Actually I think I'm gonna go with the D5100. Maybe I can finally get some good shots of my rig...


D5100 is a lot better if you can afford it. Low angle shots will be a breeze.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Great, that's what I was hoping for. They have them for $600 on NE and Amazon...


----------



## Qu1ckset

My Gtx690 has been removed and returned to stock for rma







, i have a question tho, i had to leave a couple of my thermo pads that came with my waterblock on the card so i could put the stock air cooler on, and i want to buy the exact same ones to put back when my replacement card. i have uploaded a pic to show which kind im talking about.


----------



## wermad

I believe Nvidia uses 1.0mm pad for the stock coolers. I know they use that for the 5xx and 4xx series. Waterblocks may come with a variety of different sizes. You can buy small pieces from places like ppcs.com but they are pretty pricey for the amount. You can order a large sheet from ebay, though that's usually from China. I ordered a large sheet of 1.0 and 1.5mm from China and it arrived within a week and a half. Paid ~$20.

edit: your blocks instructions should tell you what size for the vrm. On my 580, it uses 1.5 for the main phase core chips and 1.0mm for the nf200 ones (EK blocks).


----------



## 218689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I'm having the biggest crisis moment right now.
> I found someone on another forum (NeoGAF) that can buy and ship me one of my Unicorn cases. Abee Acubic T180
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then I log into OCN this morning, check my subs, and sure enough this gets posted in the Little Devil PC-V7 thread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're both the same price, right around $400. Which to choose.....


Mother of God! that T180 is beautiful!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've been looking at the Nikon D3100. Does anybody have any experience with entry level DSLR's?


I have a 350D,old but a solid camera.
Lens is more important than body apparently.


----------



## 218689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intelfej*
> 
> Nice rig!! ^^
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvEXC61S8Q0


Power of Christ compels you!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I believe Nvidia uses 1.0mm pad for the stock coolers. I know they use that for the 5xx and 4xx series. Waterblocks may come with a variety of different sizes. You can buy small pieces from places like ppcs.com but they are pretty pricey for the amount. You can order a large sheet from ebay, though that's usually from China. I ordered a large sheet of 1.0 and 1.5mm from China and it arrived within a week and a half. Paid ~$20.
> edit: your blocks instructions should tell you what size for the vrm. On my 580, it uses 1.5 for the main phase core chips and 1.0mm for the nf200 ones (EK blocks).


here is a better picture, and i check the instructions for me Evga Hydro Copper block and it said nothing about that.


----------



## zubzero689

here is my watercooling rig


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Lanboy Pics
> 
> 
> 
> here is my watercooling rig


What's the noise level like on that?


----------



## YowZ

A sneak peak of something a bit special to come:
Sorry for the crappy camera phone, just wait for the glamour shots


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> here is a better picture, and i check the instructions for me Evga Hydro Copper block and it said nothing about that.


The waviness of it tells it might be 0.5mm. Best bet, head to the EVGA forums and surely you can find out there.

Is it almost delicate? It could be 0.5mm. Usually 1.0-1.5mm are much more rigid so they tend not curl/wave when its laid on a surface.


----------



## coolmiester

Just came across this picture of one of my first attempts of making Aurora liquid in a couple of prototype Coolermaster pump/bay res i made quite some time ago.

Pretty...........even Mayhems are using the pictures on their site


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfgang*
> 
> Is only One of your HDD's Plugged into SATA3?


SSD and 3TB Seaage. It has Black Sata Cable so you cant see it.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have a 350D,old but a solid camera.
> Lens is more important than body apparently.


Actually just ordered a D5100...


----------



## rotary7

I have the same stuff in the bottles still, it smells like paint, so i end up not putting it in my pc


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Just came across this picture of one of my first attempts of making Aurora liquid in a couple of prototype Coolermaster pump/bay res i made quite some time ago.
> Pretty...........even Mayhems are using the pictures on their site


Nice. Makes me anxious to get my Deep Blue going.

edit: Got my Ek bridge and the top card no longer sags







. Didn't know I had to use some spacers now for the bridges, but all is well. Just waiting on a GTX 240 to replace the xt360 as the psu doesn't like the heat coming off of it.


----------



## mironccr345

Before:


Making room for a 540 rad and adding Pastel Green.


----------



## InsideJob

Oou I look forward to seeing the pastel green in there


----------



## Agueybana_II

I will soon join you guys still need CPU block and fittings undecided yet. Also how do you embed PIC here? NVM Thanks and rep InsideJob.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II*
> 
> I will soon join you guys still need CPU block and fittings undecided yet. Also how do you embed PIC here?
> 
> Watercooling.jpg 399k .jpg file


Here you go


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Lanboy Pics
> 
> 
> 
> here is my watercooling rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the noise level like on that?
Click to expand...

well the fan are quite my ac is louder then it so i never hear it even at night with nothing on


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making room for a 540 rad and adding Pastel Green.


Damn, that's looking good.









Raven FTW.


----------



## Hydrored

690 water block will be here tomorrow, the first one arrived damaged. Still have a little wiring clean up to do. Custom cut plexi glass to hide the rad and other ugly crap. FYI Seasonic is a pain to sleeve.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making room for a 540 rad and adding Pastel Green.


Excited to see how that goes. Get 'er done.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> Making room for a 540 rad and adding Pastel Green.


cant wait to use my pastel green







just waiting on stupid sleeving then im done!


----------



## MGF Derp




----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making room for a 540 rad and adding Pastel Green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pretty. Somehow the case reminds me more of some industrial machine than a computer








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I'm having the biggest crisis moment right now.
> I found someone on another forum (NeoGAF) that can buy and ship me one of my Unicorn cases. Abee Acubic T180
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then I log into OCN this morning, check my subs, and sure enough this gets posted in the Little Devil PC-V7 thread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're both the same price, right around $400. Which to choose.....


Acubic shiny black would be my choice. The chocolate one is indeed sexy, but color matching will be hard.
Other reason I would choose the Acubic one is because of the size. it's larger, it probably will be easier to stuff things inside.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting .. Erm... Bench.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Actually just ordered a D5100...


I am in the same boat but I might just grab a 3100 with a nice lens since I will only use it to shoot the computer.


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> Making room for a 540 rad and adding Pastel Green.


man, i want to see more!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I am in the same boat but I might just grab a 3100 with a nice lens since I will only use it to shoot the computer.


I would have done the same but I also need this camera for shooting my Youtube channel vids and the 3100 is not very good for video as far as I've read...


----------



## wermad

Bridge doing its thing and helping with the heavy blocks. Came with some oil residue on it. Still having a hard time cleaning it off


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Just came across this picture of one of my first attempts of making Aurora liquid in a couple of prototype Coolermaster pump/bay res i made quite some time ago.
> 
> Pretty...........even Mayhems are using the pictures on their site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How ironic considering they accused you of not giving credit for "their product".








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bridge doing its thing and helping with the heavy blocks. Came with some oil residue on it. Still having a hard time cleaning it off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your PSU still cracks me up every time









Here's the fun I had today, test fitting an XSPC Raystorm uni block on one of my Ares.


































A few more pics in my log as well. It fit pretty much like a dream, even better than I had anticipated. I just have a slight clearance problem with some capacitors which I'm currently working on.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My very unfinished build log is up!









http://www.overclock.net/t/1313020/build-log-megatechpc-presents-extreme-water-cooling-build-log-night-fury

Sucks trying to do a log two months after completing the build and realizing that in my hasted I took very few usable pics. Did come across this one before I filled the loop which looks pretty cool:


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bridge doing its thing and helping with the heavy blocks. Came with some oil residue on it. Still having a hard time cleaning it off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If Isopropyl Alcohol with microfiber cloth doesn't work, try Acetone. But test it on inconspicuous area first.


----------



## Tarnix

I wonder, why this suddent hype for the reverse ATX?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> How ironic considering they accused you of not giving credit for "their product".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your PSU still cracks me up every time










I like it, but the front rad is pushing a lot of hot air into to (more than I expected) and the psu is working hard. I'm going to put it back in the psu area and squeeze in a GTX 240 in front of the psu. The GTX 360 at the bottom is going to the front and the xt360 is f/s








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> If Isopropyl Alcohol with microfiber cloth doesn't work, try Acetone. But test it on inconspicuous area first.


I tried 90% which is what I typically use to clean stuff but its not working. I didn't use a microfiber but I'll give that a try. Thanks, +1








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I wonder, why this suddent hype for the reverse ATX?


Reverse ATX has been out for some time. One of the reasons is because hot air cooled gpu are more ideally placed above the cpu rather than below (hot air rising). A few cases are using perpendicular, like the TJ11.

Checkout the Azza Genesis 9000 as it has a removable mb tray that allows you to switch from atx to r-atx.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I wonder, why this suddent hype for the reverse ATX?


Because its better.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because its better.


In which ways? I don't mind reading big text, in fact I dig it... Link or anything else, I'm curious and bored


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> In which ways? I don't mind reading big text, in fact I dig it... Link or anything else, I'm curious and bored


Purely on looks,its not performance enhancing.

And its only my opinion.


----------



## Tarnix

Ah, I agree.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bridge doing its thing and helping with the heavy blocks. Came with some oil residue on it. Still having a hard time cleaning it off


Try Vinegar which won't harm that block at all.









Your PSU gave me a helluva idea for the 932. Although I'll definitely need a block off plate for the lower PSU mounting space. I planned to get another Radiator to mix in with GPU blocks so that should be a pretty effective setup. Thank you for the inspiration.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Just came across this picture of one of my first attempts of making Aurora liquid in a couple of prototype Coolermaster pump/bay res i made quite some time ago.
> 
> Pretty...........even Mayhems are using the pictures on their site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How ironic considering they accused you of not giving credit for "their product".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bridge doing its thing and helping with the heavy blocks. Came with some oil residue on it. Still having a hard time cleaning it off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your PSU still cracks me up every time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the fun I had today, test fitting an XSPC Raystorm uni block on one of my Ares.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more pics in my log as well. It fit pretty much like a dream, even better than I had anticipated. I just have a slight clearance problem with some capacitors which I'm currently working on.
Click to expand...

Wow that truly is going to be a tight fit. Can't wait to see the finished product but even more convinced that Universal Bridge Series would have looked awesome on those cards. Although I'm not sure how much clearance there would have been between the blades and the UniBlocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> How ironic considering they accused you of not giving credit for "their product".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your PSU still cracks me up every time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the fun I had today, test fitting an XSPC Raystorm uni block on one of my Ares.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more pics in my log as well. It fit pretty much like a dream, even better than I had anticipated. I just have a slight clearance problem with some capacitors which I'm currently working on.


Maybe my eyes are just bad ... but it looks like you have enough vertical space under the shroud to possibly fit a copper shim between the universal block and the GPU without it conflicting with the fan ...

If this does indeed fit it would lift the block up enough to clear the caps a bit better ?

(but like I said ... I could just be misjudging the distances)


----------



## grazz1984

From this Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD5 with crap waterblock fitted (Recieved and hated the look of it)










To this EVGA Classified E760 with EK Classified full water block, i7 920 D0, 12gb of G-Skill Trident DDR3


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> How ironic considering they accused you of not giving credit for "their product".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your PSU still cracks me up every time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the fun I had today, test fitting an XSPC Raystorm uni block on one of my Ares.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more pics in my log as well. It fit pretty much like a dream, even better than I had anticipated. I just have a slight clearance problem with some capacitors which I'm currently working on.


i think you should:
A: use red LED for the raystorm to create an amazing effect
B: use some snake fittings to solve the clearence probs.

(and obviously get a second raystorm)


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've been looking at the Nikon D3100. Does anybody have any experience with entry level DSLR's?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> That Chocolat Brown is Sexy.. Gets my Vote.


What kind of waterblocks are those?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> How ironic considering they accused you of not giving credit for "their product".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your PSU still cracks me up every time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the fun I had today, test fitting an XSPC Raystorm uni block on one of my Ares.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more pics in my log as well. It fit pretty much like a dream, even better than I had anticipated. I just have a slight clearance problem with some capacitors which I'm currently working on.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe my eyes are just bad ... but it looks like you have enough vertical space under the shroud to possibly fit a copper shim between the universal block and the GPU without it conflicting with the fan ...
> 
> If this does indeed fit it would lift the block up enough to clear the caps a bit better ?
> 
> (but like I said ... I could just be misjudging the distances)
Click to expand...

No you are correct and is probably what I'll end up doing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> How ironic considering they accused you of not giving credit for "their product".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your PSU still cracks me up every time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the fun I had today, test fitting an XSPC Raystorm uni block on one of my Ares.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more pics in my log as well. It fit pretty much like a dream, even better than I had anticipated. I just have a slight clearance problem with some capacitors which I'm currently working on.
> 
> 
> 
> i think you should:
> A: use red LED for the raystorm to create an amazing effect
> B: use some snake fittings to solve the clearence probs.
> 
> (and obviously get a second raystorm)
Click to expand...

Meep. I have a thing against red, I'm even _painting_ the ares cover bit to orange and black







I probably will be using orange LEDs _most likely_, which lets be honest are pretty similar to red anyway. Depending on how similar, possible white instead.

I've been looking at those as well, however they look like they have that base and there is literally no room for any sort of base at all. Something like this doesn't have a base, but it's kind of fat in general, so we'll see. Either way I'll get something to work, I have two more Raystorms on the way already for the other card


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Derick,get some 30mm extensions,fit them then grind what you need out the extension.
The Koolance ones are quite good for this.

Or this?

http://koolance.com/ram-35-sliding-connector-type-3




No need for a sandwich plate.


----------



## mironccr345

Does anyone know if XSPC makes an aluminum version of THIS for AMD RayStorm Block?


----------



## Lazy Bear

Why would you want an aluminium block?


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Why would you want an aluminium block?


I'm pretty sure he is talking about the mount bracket. Aluminum would look pretty cool if you had that type of theme.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Oh, right, I am on my phone and didn't bother looking at the link.

My bad.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Appears Only intel has those, according to XSPC.com.

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/


----------



## InsideJob

I plan to upgrade CPU and mobo before I get my loop started because of this...I looked at pretty well every AMD block available, and then Intel. Intel blocks are all much nicer


----------



## Tarnix

the performances of intel are better too, _apparently_. Having a X6 here, next cpu is 3770K, we'll see








P.S. No cpu war please x.x


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

A 1055T is still fast enough to do anything I do on a computer. No hate here...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Why would you want an aluminium block?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> I'm pretty sure he is talking about the mount bracket. Aluminum would look pretty cool if you had that type of theme.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Oh, right, I am on my phone and didn't bother looking at the link.
> My bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Appears Only intel has those, according to XSPC.com.
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/


I searched on Google and all I can find are Intel Brackets. The Acrylic on my buddy's AMD's block is bowed and looks horrible. So I wanted to replace it with an aluminum one, cheaper than buying a new block. Looks like my search continues. Maybe I can convince him into getting an Acrylic Block to show off the Green Pastel?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I searched on Google and all I can find are Intel Brackets. The Acrylic on my buddy's AMD's block is bowed and looks horrible. So I wanted to replace it with an aluminum one, cheaper than buying a new block. Looks like my search continues. Maybe I can convince him into getting an Acrylic Block to show off the Green Pastel?


Maybe Dwood can make a custom bracket for you?


----------



## wermad

Most shrouds are removable from the stock fan base. You could lift it up a bit (or in this down) with some longer screws and spacers. Should give you a bit more clearance for fittings.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Maybe Dwood can make a custom bracket for you?


That's a good idea







He seems a little backed up at the moment with all the attention he's gotten recently but he can do it








http://www.overclock.net/t/1237219/tript-cc-620-920-h50-h70-gpu-brackets-fan-grills-custom-case-badges


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> That's a good idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He seems a little backed up at the moment with all the attention he's gotten recently but he can do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1237219/tript-cc-620-920-h50-h70-gpu-brackets-fan-grills-custom-case-badges


He is busy as ever that is for sure but if you are patient with him it will surely get done. I would suggest get those PM's in sooner then later







.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Maybe Dwood can make a custom bracket for you?


That's a good idea. +rep!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That's a good idea. +rep!


Glad to help!







Dwood is great but you have to be patient. Sometimes it is a few days before he replies but he surely will get to it eventually. I have ordered something from him in which it got turned around in the mail so I decided to go ahead and order more stuff from him since he has to re ship it







.


----------



## Michalius

All comes down to games and single threaded tasks. Gamers don't really have a choice these days, which is too bad. Frame latency is such a killer for AMD's procs. It was a sad (and happy) day when I finally ditched my 970BE for a 2500K.


----------



## Tarnix

yeah... AMD are perfect for daily use and non-absolutely-overkill instructions squeezing like 2010+ video games, video encoding and compiling code the fastest possible. If speed is a need, Intel will serve you best from what I saw. Speed, or power saving. AMD performs fine and has a good bang for the bucks in mid-use but for the both ends of the scale, intel is needed. Then again, I say that and AMD may surprise us in 2014...

P.S. (yeah I know, again) I agree it's sad that cpu blocks for AMD are rare.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> All comes down to games and single threaded tasks. Gamers don't really have a choice these days, which is too bad. Frame latency is such a killer for AMD's procs. It was a sad (and happy) day when I finally ditched my 970BE for a 2500K.


Same here. Went from a 955BE to a i7 950 and what a difference. My main motivation was the lack of sli support (back then and I hated the sli hack) on amd boards. I've honestly couldn't go back to amd for a cpu and mb platform. I've had a 2500k, 2600k, 3820, and now a 2700k. In terms of ease of overclocking and cost, nothing beats the SB lineup. I do like SB-E but its uber expensive for a K cpu.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> its uber expensive for a K cpu.


I still can't believe I'm buying a 400$ CPU this year... (3770K). and before you people say it: yes, I *do* need the multi-tasking and video encoding. Actually what prevents me from doing more videos is because it takes waaaaay too long to encode it with decent quality, having only one computer.
Anyway~ *does voodoo magic to summon more case pr0n*
I won't put up a picture since my case is _all_ but pretty, but I managed to squeeze back my top fan in my case, just above the rad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I still can't believe I'm buying a 400$ CPU this year... (3770K). and before you people say it: yes, I *do* need the multi-tasking and video encoding. Actually what prevents me from doing more videos is because it takes waaaaay too long to encode it with decent quality, having only one computer.
> Anyway~ *does voodoo magic to summon more case pr0n*
> I won't put up a picture since my case is _all_ but pretty, but I managed to squeeze back my top fan in my case, just above the rad


Where are you shopping mate?!?!?!? 3770k are kissing the $300 marker and you can find used one's on ebay for ~$275. I bought a 3770k a month ago for $305. Sold it to keep my 2700k. You can find a used i7 3820 for ~$230.

edit: "uber expensive K" was meant for SB-E (x79)


----------



## _REAPER_

I have finally convinced the wife that I NEED watercooling... LOL (actually had to bribe her with an IPHONE 5) but hey. I have only got the block and the pump an res tell me what you guys think.


----------



## Michalius

You can't go wrong with Aquacomputer. Do be careful, the rabbit hole known as the Aquaero is a dangerously expensive one. Just avoid it until you're already exhibiting the normal behaviors for us crack addicts (going to Performance PC's every day and clicking on the 'Whats new' link, for example).


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I have finally convinced the wife that I NEED watercooling... LOL (actually had to bribe her with an IPHONE 5) but hey. I have only got the block and the pump an res tell me what you guys think.


That has gotta be the sexiest D5 pump/res combo I have ever seen in my life. It saddens me that I have already spent on reservoirs.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> You can't go wrong with Aquacomputer. Do be careful, the rabbit hole known as the Aquaero is a dangerously expensive one. Just avoid it until you're already exhibiting the normal behaviors for us crack addicts (going to Performance PC's every day and clicking on the 'Whats new' link, for example).


Not too worried about the cost actually, once I got the wife convinced lol it was on. I will utilize only Aquacomputer for this watercooling build. Just have to wait for USG Finance to send money to my account lol.


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bridge doing its thing and helping with the heavy blocks. Came with some oil residue on it. Still having a hard time cleaning it off


If the microfiber doenst work try some dawn dishwashing liquid and one of those white mr clean sponges.
Sunset1


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> You can't go wrong with Aquacomputer. Do be careful, the rabbit hole known as the Aquaero is a dangerously expensive one. Just avoid it until you're already exhibiting the normal behaviors for us crack addicts (going to Performance PC's every day and clicking on the 'Whats new' link, for example).
> 
> 
> 
> Not too worried about the cost actually, once I got the wife convinced lol it was on. I will utilize only Aquacomputer for this watercooling build. Just have to wait for USG Finance to send money to my account lol.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I have finally convinced the wife that I NEED watercooling... LOL (actually had to bribe her with an IPHONE 5) but hey. I have only got the block and the pump an res tell me what you guys think.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love it _REAPER_! Are you going with Full Coverage Blocks for your GPU or Universals?

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> If the microfiber doenst work try some dawn dishwashing liquid and one of those white mr clean sponges.
> Sunset1


Thanks, I'll give that a try. Not sure if this is some residue from machining process, but it was slick. I'm not too worried though


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> In which ways? I don't mind reading big text, in fact I dig it... Link or anything else, I'm curious and bored


http://www.anandtech.com/show/6088/azza-genesis-9000-case-review-building-it-every-way

You might be suprised at his findings on cooling in the reverse mode with stock fan setup.
Its not as cool as it can be. But its the stock build being tested. You know that doesn't hold up at OCN !


----------



## NewHighScore

Check out my build log for my switch 810 water cooled. It is in the final stretch with the final components in the mail.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1289183/build-log-nzxt-switch-810-switchup


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I have finally convinced the wife that I NEED watercooling... LOL (actually had to bribe her with an IPHONE 5) but hey. I have only got the block and the pump an res tell me what you guys think.
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1075181/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


Good work on getting the green light.









I think they look very nice, but very expensive. (but if I could I would).


----------



## Fonne

Was asked to make a top to some old cobber bottoms, so they could work again ... This is just a prototype, still need some changes (Dont have all the dimensions)

Was done a little fast, but turned out pretty well ... My FIRST watercooling part that I have made, its fun














(Its not made to be a killer performer, but just simple and easy/fast to make)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Was asked to make a top to some old cobber bottoms, so they could work again ... This is just a prototype, still need some changes (Dont have all the dimensions)
> Was done a little fast, but turned out pretty well ... My FIRST watercooling part that I have made, its fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Its not made to be a killer performer, but just simple and easy/fast to make)


Nice!


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Where are you shopping mate?!?!?!? 3770k are kissing the $300 marker and you can find used one's on ebay for ~$275. I bought a 3770k a month ago for $305. Sold it to keep my 2700k. You can find a used i7 3820 for ~$230.
> edit: "uber expensive K" was meant for SB-E (x79)


I'm shopping high-end electronic equipment with canuck skins (canadian dollars) and a 15% tax. That means that everything is 13% pricier, before tax. Gotta hate this country...
ohwait you said where... NCIX.com, 319,99 Canadian$.
And I don't buy used. I'm too rough on my things. Something used is as good as dead.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice!


Thanks


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Was asked to make a top to some old cobber bottoms, so they could work again ... This is just a prototype, still need some changes (Dont have all the dimensions)
> Was done a little fast, but turned out pretty well ... My FIRST watercooling part that I have made, its fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Its not made to be a killer performer, but just simple and easy/fast to make)


That looks really cool. Nice job! What machine was that made on?


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> That looks really cool. Nice job! What machine was that made on?


Thanks









Was made on a Lagun MC7638 - Got a newer machine (Higher rpm), but it was running a larger series, so just took the one that was having a short break


----------



## Hamy144

Let me say one thing before i start,
yes ive flushed both rads and block twice, and am running distilled + killcoil.

So this is the third time its happened to me the water in the res has a brown tint to it combined with this solid build up at the top of my reservoir. Also my tube is lined with this brown/blue gunk (plasticiser?)





Does anyone want to give me a little help? or atleast point me in the direction of the problem.

Look specs,
Alphacool livingstone block
XSPC EX 360mm radiator
Aquacomputer airplex XT 360
DDC3.25
XSPC 1/2,3/4 UV Blue tubing.

Id really appreciate any help.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Let me say one thing before i start,
> yes ive flushed both rads and block twice, and am running distilled + killcoil.
> So this is the third time its happened to me the water in the res has a brown tint to it combined with this solid build up at the top of my reservoir. Also my tube is lined with this brown/blue gunk (plasticiser?)
> 
> 
> Does anyone want to give me a little help? or atleast point me in the direction of the problem.
> Look specs,
> Alphacool livingstone block
> XSPC EX 360mm radiator
> Aquacomputer airplex XT 360
> DDC3.25
> XSPC 1/2,3/4 UV Blue tubing.
> Id really appreciate any help.


Check the inside of the CPU block.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Check the inside of the CPU block.


Thanks for that wonderful and well explained analyse of the situation.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Let me say one thing before i start,
> yes ive flushed both rads and block twice, and am running distilled + killcoil.
> 
> So this is the third time its happened to me the water in the res has a brown tint to it combined with this solid build up at the top of my reservoir. Also my tube is lined with this brown/blue gunk (plasticiser?)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone want to give me a little help? or atleast point me in the direction of the problem.
> 
> Look specs,
> Alphacool livingstone block
> XSPC EX 360mm radiator
> Aquacomputer airplex XT 360
> DDC3.25
> XSPC 1/2,3/4 UV Blue tubing.
> 
> Id really appreciate any help.


Yes sir that is plasticiser. How long have you been using that tubing?


----------



## driftingforlife

Yes it is plasticiser.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Yes sir that is plasticiser. How long have you been using that tubing?


Thanks for confirming
Since i First constructed the loop around July
What other alternatives of tubing are there? I really like the colour of the XSPC fits my theme perfectly.


----------



## driftingforlife

You could try http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Masterkleer-Tubing-PVC-1913mm-12ID-UV-Active-Blue-1m_12167.html


----------



## Fuganater

Personally I like clear tubing so I'm now using Durelene which is found at SidewinderComputers.com. You could get that and some of Mayhem's pastel coolant for a nice new look.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> You could try http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Masterkleer-Tubing-PVC-1913mm-12ID-UV-Active-Blue-1m_12167.html


I haven't read anyone having problems with it.
Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Personally I like clear tubing so I'm now using Durelene which is found at SidewinderComputers.com. You could get that and some of Mayhem's pastel coolant for a nice new look.


UK


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Thanks for confirming
> Since i First constructed the loop around July
> What other alternatives of tubing are there? I really like the colour of the XSPC fits my theme perfectly.


Welcome to the club:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery

I gave up on clear tube because of this reason. I am running colored tube and though its still occurring, the color conceals it from view


----------



## Hanoverfist

Starting a New Build. If you guys get bored, check it out.. Should be a Long One so i can bore you all to Tears..









http://www.overclock.net/t/1313180/build-log-electric-orange


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Starting a New Build. If you guys get bored, check it out.. Should be a Long One so i can bore you all to Tears..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1313180/build-log-electric-orange


I approve of this thread!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I haven't read anyone having problems with it.
> UK


Check out the link in my sig to the Database. That might help you out.


----------



## wermad

Well...that's XSPC for you:



Gonna see if I can get something different. I did like Alphacool and might give Phobya another try.

edit: ordered jab-tech's remaining stock of Enzotech black compression fittings







. Soon as they come in, xspc are going on the f/s and ebay. Any one is interested, jab-tech is selling their enzotech fittings for $5.95 each including 1/2x3/4:

https://www.jab-tech.com/home.php?cat=332&sort=price&sort_direction=0

.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

This is what I love about BP. Expensive yes, but always of impeccable quality...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> This is what I love about BP. Expensive yes, but always of impeccable quality...


I know, i got a couple of the black ones when I bought my 35x and they're very smooth and the paint finish is very nice. I just can't see myself shelling out a ton of money for them since I need quite a few.


----------



## tsm106

Ah Wermad, I have a bag of 16 Enzo 1/2x3/4 blacks here I was gonna list. I need to swap out the rest of the BP fittings I have in my wifes htpc.

I can't stand BP fittings. They're massive, the black wears off, and they tear your fingers apart. They also don't hold on anywhere near as good as the xspc. The enzos hold tubes about as well as BP. They're ok I guess but you can't put too much strain or they will pull out enough to leak.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I haven't read anyone having problems with it.
> Thanks!


XSPC is know to have plasticiser issues with their tubing. From what I've learnt, you can go for Masterkleer, Durelene or Clearflex 60 as they're not known to have these issues.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Ah Wermad, I have a bag of 16 Enzo 1/2x3/4 blacks here I was gonna list. I need to swap out the rest of the BP fittings I have in my wifes htpc.
> I can't stand BP fittings. They're massive, the black wears off, and they tear your fingers apart. They also don't hold on anywhere near as good as the xspc. The enzos hold tubes about as well as BP. They're ok I guess but you can't put too much strain or they will pull out enough to leak.


Thanks, but I'm sticking with 3/8x5/8. It clears a lot of things without needing extensions. Plus, I have a ton of 3/8x5/8 tube.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Anyone selling 2 x 360 Rads 60mm thick Let me know


----------



## _REAPER_

I need the community advice on the below.. Please let me know if this looks about right for the fittings etc.

Thank you for the help


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I need the community advice on the below.. Please let me know if this looks about right for the fittings etc.
> Thank you for the help
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


Why such a small ID size if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## _REAPER_

What do you recommend


----------



## Tarnix

I didn't water-cool anything yet with a custom loop, but from what I saw, 1/2" would be better?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What do you recommend


If you like robust tube that will create fluid bends, try 3/8x5/8 or 1/2x3/4. Be careful as the later is really big when it comes to compression fittings. You may have some clearance issues.

1/4x3/8, 3/8x1/2, & 1/2x5/8 have thin walls, these makes them really easy to work with but the are more susceptible to kinking and you end up using a lot of angled fittings.

1/2x7/16 is also very popular as its slightly thicker than the second group noted but its not as thick as the first group noted. Its basically a compromise. Though, there not as many as the first ones and second ones noted.

Personally, after using 1/2x3/4, then 3/8x1/2, and lastly 3/8x5/8 I found that the last one is the best compromise. You have plenty of clearance and you have the robust thickness of the tube to make some nice bends. Some fittings tend to be slightly cheaper than 1/2x3/4; though some times is a bit more expensive than 3/8x1/2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I didn't water-cool anything yet with a custom loop, but from what I saw, 1/2" would be better?


I never noticed a difference in terms of thermal performance between 3/8 id vs 1/2 id. 3/8 will cause a bit more restriction but a good pump shouldn't have any troubles with it.


----------



## _REAPER_

I dont think it makes much of a temperature difference plus I am going to put the tubes on the back of my build so you cannot see them


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah from what I understand the ID of the tubing really doesn't make much difference. But I would recommend 1/2"ID as it's harder to kink the tubing when making bends. That was why I went with 1/2" x 3/4" Tubing for my build. Once the coolant reaches a certain temperature in the loop it really doesn't matter the size of the tubing.

I'd still recommend 1/2" x 3/4" for the look though. Smaller tubing may be easier to route(so I'm told) but aesthetically speaking 3/4" tubing is the beez kneez. It's not that large. But if you go with BP fittings make sure to get at least one angle fitting to keep the CPU fittings far enough apart to keep them from grinding on each other.









Go 3/8" x 1/2" if you take the tubing behind the mainboard _REAPER_. Should fit just right. 1/2"x 3/4" would be just a bit too snug. Sorry I missed this little detail in your reply.









~Ceadder


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I dont think it makes much of a temperature difference plus I am going to put the tubes on the back of my build *so you cannot see them*


ummmmmmm....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah from what I understand the ID of the tubing really doesn't make much difference. But I would recommend 1/2"ID as it's harder to kink the tubing when making bends. That was why I went with 1/2" x 3/4" Tubing for my build. Once the coolant reaches a certain temperature in the loop it really doesn't matter the size of the tubing.
> I'd still recommend 1/2" x 3/4" for the look though. Smaller tubing may be easier to route(so I'm told) but aesthetically speaking 3/4" tubing is the beez kneez. It's not that large. But if you go with BP fittings make sure to get at least one angle fitting to keep the CPU fittings far enough apart to keep them from grinding on each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go 3/8" x 1/2" if you take the tubing behind the mainboard _REAPER_. Should fit just right. 1/2"x 3/4" would be just a bit too snug. Sorry I missed this little detail in your reply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


3/8x5/8 has the same tube thickness but the smaller size makes clearing things much easier


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I dont think it makes much of a temperature difference plus I am going to put the tubes on the back of my build so you cannot see them
> 
> 
> 
> ummmmmmm....
Click to expand...

This. It makes no sense to water-cool your computer if your not gonna showcase it... it's half the temps, half the look. If you think that tubes are "messy and ugly", just buy a huge silent heatsink/2xfan CPU cooler...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> This. It makes no sense to water-cool your computer if your not gonna showcase it... it's half the temps, half the look. If you think that tubes are "messy and ugly", just buy a huge silent heatsink/2xfan CPU cooler...


He might be going for a "stealth" look. Same concept as to hide the cables as much as possible. Interesting concept imho. Would like to see it done. Makes sense now to use a small id tube then


----------



## Lord Lamington

hi.
I just found some wire in a cupboard which is silver wire with a copper core. I was wondering if it would have the same effect as a silver coil in my watercooling loop. If it helps, it is 1mm in diameter and I have 4 metres of this stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Lamington*
> 
> hi.
> I just found some wire in a cupboard which is silver wire with a copper core. I was wondering if it would have the same effect as a silver coil in my watercooling loop. If it helps, it is 1mm in diameter and I have 4 metres of this stuff.


Doubtful. But then I don't use Silver or additives in my loop.









Update on the Fittings front...

I've decided to sell my EK Black Nickel Comps so keep an eye out in the Cooling marketplace.









~Ceadder


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 3/8x5/8 has the same tube thickness but the smaller size makes clearing things much easier


I am going to go with 3/8x5/8 for this build and I am going to go for the stealth look just because it #1 is harder #2 will go with my build. Below is my build with just the H100


----------



## _REAPER_

OK let me know what you guys think now.


----------



## derickwm

Man I am seriously jelly of the radiator.


----------



## wermad

Any one know more about this guy?:



http://koolance.com/pmp-500-pump-g-1-4-bsp

7.5m of head pressure


----------



## derickwm

Looks like a good combination between the DCC & D5. It's not really standard though so I don't think too many accessories for it outside of what Koolance offers.


----------



## paopaovocal

Add ram waterblock.


----------



## Tom114

Finished my first waterloop!


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Finished my first waterloop!


You shouldn't have done all those crosses! Like the CPU waterblock is the wrong way, inlet should be to the right for a better and cleaner look.


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> You shouldn't have done all those crosses! Like the CPU waterblock is the wrong way, inlet should be to the right for a better and cleaner look.


The inlet is on the right..


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> You shouldn't have done all those crosses! Like the CPU waterblock is the wrong way, inlet should be to the right for a better and cleaner look.


What about blocks having "IN" and "OUT" labels or recommendations?


----------



## Borarah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> You shouldn't have done all those crosses! Like the CPU waterblock is the wrong way, inlet should be to the right for a better and cleaner look.


Awks... bahahaha.

What tubing you using there? Looks so nice and clear.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Finished my first waterloop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


Nice build mate







. What dye/coolant are you using?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> You shouldn't have done all those crosses! Like the CPU waterblock is the wrong way, inlet should be to the right for a better and cleaner look.


I see no issue









Btw, please only quote one pic and put the rest in "spoiler".


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borarah*
> 
> Awks... bahahaha.
> What tubing you using there? Looks so nice and clear.


Durelene, but its still new, I hope it will stay this way
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice build mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What dye/coolant are you using?


Thanks! It´s Mayhems Deep Blue Dye, irl it looks a little bit more green than in the pictures though


----------



## Tarnix

It looks so clean!


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> What about blocks having "IN" and "OUT" labels or recommendations?


Yeah i no, that, but i didn't no the Waterblock had to be placed in a certain direction, you can place it in 2 ways, everybody needs to use there common sense.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Durelene, but its still new, I hope it will stay this way
> Thanks! It´s Mayhems Deep Blue Dye, irl it looks a little bit more green than in the pictures though


I'm planning to use that









I did a little comparison on the Deep blue and Emerald Green. and a little combination of both









Mine definitely looks "deep blue"









edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What do you guys think? I'm leaning towards just using the Deep blue.
> A little disappointed in the Emerald green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The Deep blue was awesome. Combination of both seems to yield some nice results too. Each sample is using 100ml of distilled water.
> From left to right:
> Deep Blue (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (1 drop)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One more simple test in natural light. You can really see how nice the colors are. Making choice much harder *but*, my case is dark inside so the deep blue looks the best with minimal lighting.
> Starting from top-left corner (clockwise): Deep Blue (2 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Emerald Green (3 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (2 drops):
> 
> The blue really gets the upper hand when using the same amounts. Maybe the Green needs to be a bit more concentrated but that's just imho.


----------



## PTCB

Nice setup Tom! I totally understand why you set it up that way. Otherwise, the logo will be upside down. I'm using the Durelene too.

Here's where I'm at so far. It hasn't been filled yet. I'll do that tomorrow.


----------



## Fuganater

My 40' of Durelene just came in. I hope to be using some of it soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Nice setup Tom! I totally understand why you set it up that way. Otherwise, the logo will be upside down. I'm using the Durelene too.
> 
> Here's where I'm at so far. It hasn't been filled yet. I'll do that tomorrow.


Nice rig bud.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Man I am seriously jelly of the radiator.


Dont be,she is not a performer.
Ignore that PureOC BS review that everyone keeps quoting
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one know more about this guy?:
> 
> http://koolance.com/pmp-500-pump-g-1-4-bsp
> 7.5m of head pressure


I have one on the way,its going in next years scratch build.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> This. It makes no sense to water-cool your computer if your not gonna showcase it... it's half the temps, half the look. If you think that tubes are "messy and ugly", just buy a huge silent heatsink/2xfan CPU cooler...


Disagree. You can still show off your loop and have a clean/stealth look to it.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Finished my first waterloop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks good.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Very Nice build, extremely clean and I really like how you manage the GPUs power cables. Great colors too


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Disagree. You can still show off your loop and have a clean/stealth look to it.


Of course. Actually I'm curious to see that. That's not the road most people takes and it makes it interesting. (I know I just contradicted myself, but I do that often...







)


----------



## Fonne

Are there any running Rads/Fans like this here ? (sandwich)



Total will be 122mm (Fans = 25 x2 and EX = 36 x2)

Is trying to find the most compact RAD setup that will perform the best (Not higher/longer than a 140mm RAD - Only thicker) ...

Could also take a UT60 + Push/Pull = 110mm ... Or maybe 2x XT45 and 2x fans = 140mm (140mm thick is max)


----------



## NewHighScore

I'm not sure you would want to do that as the air passing over the 2nd radiator will be that much warmer then the first one. Or who knows maybe it really doesn't make a noticeable difference at all.


----------



## TheDAZ

Just finished up building my new PC - Built 2 cabinets onto an armchair - rad box on left, pc on right






specs - 2600k, Maximus IV e -z68,2 x gtx 570 - one water cooler the other 1 not (gigabyte non - reference card)
HWL gtx 480 rad, Aquacomputer D5, AC Kryos HF cpu block, AC AquagraFX 580 gpu block, EK d5 res top, monsoon fittings, 4 x Scythe G-Silent 2000 rpm fans, Aquaero 5

Work still todo - Acrylic sidepanel (etching is being proofed early next week) and LED lighting, instal 5.1 surround sound system, instal 12" touch screen, seat upholstery - doona covers just dont cut it

Currently running 24" monitor, soon to be 40" HD TV. Original plan was for a projector built in as well, but what i want vs what i can afford, well nuff said!

A far more detailed post of the build coming in a few day's, but had to share a few pics after finally sitting in my new watercooled PC.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Are there any running Rads/Fans like this here ? (sandwich)
> 
> 
> 
> Total will be 122mm (Fans = 25 x2 and EX = 36 x2)
> 
> Is trying to find the most compact RAD setup that will perform the best (Not higher/longer than a 140mm RAD - Only thicker) ...
> 
> Could also take a UT60 + Push/Pull = 110mm ... Or maybe 2x XT45 and 2x fans = 140mm (140mm thick is max)


There is a difference. Check this out: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?220874-More-Radiator-Sandwich-testing


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> There is a difference. Check this out: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?220874-More-Radiator-Sandwich-testing


Amazing that "Sandwich + 6 Fans" and "Single Rad + 6 Fans" perform the same, almost hard to get in my head - Would love to see a new test about this, with the fans + rad that is on the marked now ...

From that test a UT60 + Push / Pull will be my best option ...


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDAZ*
> 
> Just finished up building my new PC - Built 2 cabinets onto an armchair - rad box on left, pc on right
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs - 2600k, Maximus IV e -z68,2 x gtx 570 - one water cooler the other 1 not (gigabyte non - reference card)
> HWL gtx 480 rad, Aquacomputer D5, AC Kryos HF cpu block, AC AquagraFX 580 gpu block, EK d5 res top, monsoon fittings, 4 x Scythe G-Silent 2000 rpm fans, Aquaero 5
> Work still todo - Acrylic sidepanel (etching is being proofed early next week) and LED lighting, instal 5.1 surround sound system, instal 12" touch screen, seat upholstery - doona covers just dont cut it
> Currently running 24" monitor, soon to be 40" HD TV. Original plan was for a projector built in as well, but what i want vs what i can afford, well nuff said!
> A far more detailed post of the build coming in a few day's, but had to share a few pics after finally sitting in my new watercooled PC.


You sir, are my hero! When are you going to market these bad boys?


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDAZ*
> 
> Just finished up building my new PC - Built 2 cabinets onto an armchair - rad box on left, pc on right
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs - 2600k, Maximus IV e -z68,2 x gtx 570 - one water cooler the other 1 not (gigabyte non - reference card)
> HWL gtx 480 rad, Aquacomputer D5, AC Kryos HF cpu block, AC AquagraFX 580 gpu block, EK d5 res top, monsoon fittings, 4 x Scythe G-Silent 2000 rpm fans, Aquaero 5
> Work still todo - Acrylic sidepanel (etching is being proofed early next week) and LED lighting, instal 5.1 surround sound system, instal 12" touch screen, seat upholstery - doona covers just dont cut it
> Currently running 24" monitor, soon to be 40" HD TV. Original plan was for a projector built in as well, but what i want vs what i can afford, well nuff said!
> A far more detailed post of the build coming in a few day's, but had to share a few pics after finally sitting in my new watercooled PC.


I gotta say, With a computer like that, there's no need for living room gaming consoles anymore. You can litterally *Play your games in your couch/chair*.


----------



## _REAPER_

OK I have increased the tubing size ETC let me know if you think anything needs to be changed. Main question is about tubing and tubing size.. I need some help from the experts here.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A job that came about for someone who saw my SR-2 build and asked me to do a gaming rig for his son for christmas..

Only a H100 for now but i think he wants me to do a full loop for him once he is satisfied its safe.














































Wire up tomorrow and the final mods during next week,new window,lights etc.....


----------



## NewHighScore

Looks great but I am curious why you went with a yellow ring on the fans?


----------



## SimpleTech

The only thing it's missing now is a Corsair video card, Corsair motherboard, and Corsair CPU. Luckily those will come out next year with their newest lineup.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Amazing that "Sandwich + 6 Fans" and "Single Rad + 6 Fans" perform the same, almost hard to get in my head - Would love to see a new test about this, with the fans + rad that is on the marked now ...
> From that test a UT60 + Push / Pull will be my best option ...


Ikr, I've been wondering about stacked rads for a bit (since I realized I could have a 420 up top and put the current 280 with the bottom 280). If this is true then I'd be better off selling the second 280mm...


----------



## Fonne

Is there any news about Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta will come as a 140mm version ?- Could be nice







...

Looks like the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Single 140mm in Push / Pull will be the best compact setup that i can get ...

How do you think that it will perform, compared to something like 2x 140mm EX with a single fan on each ? - Half the cooling, or 75% ?

(Maybe I should make a thread about it)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> The only thing it's missing now is a Corsair video card, Corsair motherboard, and Corsair CPU. Luckily those will come out next year with their newest lineup.


I went with Corsair stuff purely for the warranty and you cant do better than an AX Series PSU.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I went with Corsair stuff purely for the warranty and you cant do better than an AX Series PSU.


Just yanking your chain.







(looks good btw)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Just yanking your chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (looks good btw)


Its one lucky lad getting this for Christmas! Its not me either









I really want to put a custom loop in it,this case is ready for it!!

link to the build. http://www.overclock.net/t/1313101/build-log-mil-spec#post_18308260


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDAZ*
> 
> Just finished up building my new PC - Built 2 cabinets onto an armchair - rad box on left, pc on right
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs - 2600k, Maximus IV e -z68,2 x gtx 570 - one water cooler the other 1 not (gigabyte non - reference card)
> HWL gtx 480 rad, Aquacomputer D5, AC Kryos HF cpu block, AC AquagraFX 580 gpu block, EK d5 res top, monsoon fittings, 4 x Scythe G-Silent 2000 rpm fans, Aquaero 5
> Work still todo - Acrylic sidepanel (etching is being proofed early next week) and LED lighting, instal 5.1 surround sound system, instal 12" touch screen, seat upholstery - doona covers just dont cut it
> Currently running 24" monitor, soon to be 40" HD TV. Original plan was for a projector built in as well, but what i want vs what i can afford, well nuff said!
> A far more detailed post of the build coming in a few day's, but had to share a few pics after finally sitting in my new watercooled PC.


LOVE IT!!!!! Add an Ice Box ,, Strap on some Depends ,, never have to leave. LOL


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Very Nice build, extremely clean and I really like how you manage the GPUs power cables. Great colors too


Thanks! I would love to get my hands back on the rig and take better pics. But my buddy moved to Panama.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDAZ*
> 
> Just finished up building my new PC - Built 2 cabinets onto an armchair - rad box on left, pc on right
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs - 2600k, Maximus IV e -z68,2 x gtx 570 - one water cooler the other 1 not (gigabyte non - reference card)
> HWL gtx 480 rad, Aquacomputer D5, AC Kryos HF cpu block, AC AquagraFX 580 gpu block, EK d5 res top, monsoon fittings, 4 x Scythe G-Silent 2000 rpm fans, Aquaero 5
> Work still todo - Acrylic sidepanel (etching is being proofed early next week) and LED lighting, instal 5.1 surround sound system, instal 12" touch screen, seat upholstery - doona covers just dont cut it
> Currently running 24" monitor, soon to be 40" HD TV. Original plan was for a projector built in as well, but what i want vs what i can afford, well nuff said!
> A far more detailed post of the build coming in a few day's, but had to share a few pics after finally sitting in my new watercooled PC.


Very interesting.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A job that came about for someone who saw my SR-2 build and asked me to do a gaming rig for his son for christmas..
> Only a H100 for now but i think he wants me to do a full loop for him once he is satisfied its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wire up tomorrow and the final mods during next week,new window,lights etc.....


All the colors blend well together. I like how your using the yellow rims on the fans, looks different and i like it. What a lucky kid!


----------



## Disillusionist

Hey all.
Here are some pics of my wc rig.
More pics and info is found in my sig.


----------



## Qu1ckset

hey guys im just about to order some replacement tim pads for my hydrocopper water block, do i get the adhesive or non adhesive kind? im ordering off ebay...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

non adhesive


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> hey guys im just about to order some replacement tim pads for my hydrocopper water block, do i get the adhesive or non adhesive kind? im ordering off ebay...


non-adhesive (like the ones included with blocks). You getting a large sheet (~200mm^2)?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one know more about this guy?:
> 
> 
> 
> http://koolance.com/pmp-500-pump-g-1-4-bsp
> 
> 7.5m of head pressure


I'm reasonably sure this is a modded D5 setup. Something similar to their MCP 400 kit, though they include the Pump with a new top. The only difference here between this and the D5 is they removed the casing and replaced it with heatsinks.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheDAZ*
> 
> Just finished up building my new PC - Built 2 cabinets onto an armchair - rad box on left, pc on right
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs - 2600k, Maximus IV e -z68,2 x gtx 570 - one water cooler the other 1 not (gigabyte non - reference card)
> HWL gtx 480 rad, Aquacomputer D5, AC Kryos HF cpu block, AC AquagraFX 580 gpu block, EK d5 res top, monsoon fittings, 4 x Scythe G-Silent 2000 rpm fans, Aquaero 5
> Work still todo - Acrylic sidepanel (etching is being proofed early next week) and LED lighting, instal 5.1 surround sound system, instal 12" touch screen, seat upholstery - doona covers just dont cut it
> Currently running 24" monitor, soon to be 40" HD TV. Original plan was for a projector built in as well, but what i want vs what i can afford, well nuff said!
> A far more detailed post of the build coming in a few day's, but had to share a few pics after finally sitting in my new watercooled PC.
> 
> 
> 
> LOVE IT!!!!! Add an Ice Box ,, *Strap on some Depends* ,, never have to leave. LOL
Click to expand...

Ewwwwwww.









If you're that addicted to computer gaming just build your gaming room in the lavatory.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm reasonably sure this is a modded D5 setup. Something similar to their MCP 400 kit, though they include the Pump with a new top. The only difference here between this and the D5 is they removed the casing and replaced it with heatsinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ewwwwwww.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're that addicted to computer gaming just build your gaming room in the lavatory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Koolance pmp-400 = DDC 3.2
pmp-450 = D5

Derick pointed out it looks like a cross between both







. B-Negative is getting one so we should get first impressions soon.


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDAZ*
> 
> Just finished up building my new PC - Built 2 cabinets onto an armchair - rad box on left, pc on right
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs - 2600k, Maximus IV e -z68,2 x gtx 570 - one water cooler the other 1 not (gigabyte non - reference card)
> HWL gtx 480 rad, Aquacomputer D5, AC Kryos HF cpu block, AC AquagraFX 580 gpu block, EK d5 res top, monsoon fittings, 4 x Scythe G-Silent 2000 rpm fans, Aquaero 5
> Work still todo - Acrylic sidepanel (etching is being proofed early next week) and LED lighting, instal 5.1 surround sound system, instal 12" touch screen, seat upholstery - doona covers just dont cut it
> Currently running 24" monitor, soon to be 40" HD TV. Original plan was for a projector built in as well, but what i want vs what i can afford, well nuff said!
> A far more detailed post of the build coming in a few day's, but had to share a few pics after finally sitting in my new watercooled PC.


Genius! I love it.
You really inspired me and made me start thinking outside the box.


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Finished my first waterloop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Impressive first loop. I just made my first loop too. Not close as good as yours, but not too bad.


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Disagree. You can still show off your loop and have a clean/stealth look to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Absolutely beautiful. I love the white/red theme.


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Nice setup Tom! I totally understand why you set it up that way. Otherwise, the logo will be upside down. I'm using the Durelene too.
> Here's where I'm at so far. It hasn't been filled yet. I'll do that tomorrow.


Your build is almost exactly built as my current dream goal (in hopefully somewhat near future) for my rig.
Problem is that I'm a poor bastard and can't buy more than one part at a time.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> non-adhesive (like the ones included with blocks). You getting a large sheet (~200mm^2)?


Ya I'm getting a 100x100mm sheet


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> Add ram waterblock.


Right me if I'm wrong.
It looks like a tube leads in to the PSU :O . Is it watercooled too or do I need to check my vision?


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disillusionist*
> 
> Your build is almost exactly built as my current dream goal (in hopefully somewhat near future) for my rig.
> Problem is that I'm a poor bastard and can't buy more than one part at a time.


I totally feel you as here in NZ, PC components are SO expensive. Way overpriced if you ask me. So, I got most of my parts from the US while I was visiting my family. I hope it's better in Sweden.









The 650D is not very W/C friendly, is it? A nice case nonetheless. I hope your project turn out well.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey gang,

Hope this is the right place to showcase the depths of my insanity.

I built this little gem of an external cooling system to be able to keep 3 or 4 OC'd 7970s cool under load with the hi ambients common here in the tropics.







This is the what those GPUs will be calling home: ( replacing the one curently there that's "I borrowed" from another build )

The chipset/VRM, memory and cpu are all on the internal loop







Darlene


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ya I'm getting a 100x100mm sheet


Awesome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disillusionist*
> 
> Right me if I'm wrong.
> It looks like a tube leads in to the PSU :O . Is it watercooled too or do I need to check my vision?


I think its just a piece being used as support. I've done that with spare pieces of tube.


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> Darlene


Holy GOD, that is amazing.


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think its just a piece being used as support. I've done that with spare pieces of tube.


Ah, ok. That just gave me an idea. I'm going to use some of my spare tubing as vibration dampers.
Thanks


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> Hope this is the right place to showcase the depths of my insanity.
> I built this little gem of an external cooling system to be able to keep 3 or 4 OC'd 7970s cool under load with the hi ambients common here in the tropics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> This is the what those GPUs will be calling home: ( replacing the one curently there that's "I borrowed" from another build )
> The chipset/VRM, memory and cpu are all on the internal loop
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> Darlene


My jaw dropped on my knee just now.
Will it fly too?


----------



## CRosko42

Getting bored with my current build.

I've been fighting the urge to update and make additions to it since I bought my 680+block back in early April.

It's the longest I've ever gone between buying anything for my computer, getting antsy lately though even though I have no need to upgrade at this point.

Thinking of doing a teardown of my current build and using copper tubing sanded to a mirror finish and then clear coated. Would like to do nickel but I don't have the money to have it plated.

I know people normally use something like these right?

And the only other question I have is if I should buy the copper in straight sections or the coiled copper? Been looking at #9935K11 or #9935K21 from here.


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> Getting bored with my current build.
> I've been fighting the urge to update and make additions to it since I bought my 680+block back in early April.
> It's the longest I've ever gone between buying anything for my computer, getting antsy lately though even though I have no need to upgrade at this point.
> Thinking of doing a teardown of my current build and using copper tubing sanded to a mirror finish and then clear coated. Would like to do nickel but I don't have the money to have it plated.
> I know people normally use something like these right?
> And the only other question I have is if I should buy the copper in straight sections or the coiled copper? Been looking at #9935K11 or #9935K21 from here.


Do you need 10m tubes?
The straight ones I think will be best since you need to bend them to your configuration. The coiled one is slightly bent and could make it difficult to do perfect bends.
I'm not sure though cuz I haven't doen it myself.


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disillusionist*
> 
> Do you need 10m tubes?
> The straight ones I think will be best since you need to bend them to your configuration. The coiled one is slightly bent and could make it difficult to do perfect bends.
> I'm not sure though cuz I haven't doen it myself.


Yeah the only thing making me ask is that it says the coiled can be bent with a tool, but the straight cannot be bent....not sure if that's true or not.


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finished my first waterloop!


clean rig you have there! nice shot too. congrats on your 1st build. mine was not as sleek and clean as yours on my first attempt on water cooling.


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disillusionist*
> 
> Hey all.
> Here are some pics of my wc rig.
> More pics and info is found in my sig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm pathetic, quoting my own post.








I would like some advice for what my next step should be.
Getting better GPU (currently using GTX460 1Gb 714MHz OC) or upgrade the cooling.
It is my very first water loop btw so have mercy


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disillusionist*
> 
> I'm pathetic, quoting my own post.


also quadruple posting and double posting..


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> also quadruple posting and double posting..


I'm sorry for that.
I read through the thread and posted on some of the stuff I liked.
Will try not to do it again.


----------



## tezza192

My 600t, first crack at watercooling









I7 3770k
GTX 680 SLI
16gb RAM
Asus Z77 Deluxe MB


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Disagree. You can still show off your loop and have a clean/stealth look to it.


@ micronccr345 - Whose build is that ? I don't think I've seen it till now - I like that loop, would like to know more bout its loop, specifically the 2 hoses going thru the right panel roof.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> @ micronccr345 - Whose build is that ? I don't think I've seen it till now - I like that loop, would like to know more bout its loop.


What size tubes are these


----------



## Zertag111000

Nice rig man, where did you get the white GPU's......Yea didn't see the SSD on your rig. Did you put it on the back panel.


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Was asked to make a top to some old cobber bottoms, so they could work again ... This is just a prototype, still need some changes (Dont have all the dimensions)
> Was done a little fast, but turned out pretty well ... My FIRST watercooling part that I have made, its fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Its not made to be a killer performer, but just simple and easy/fast to make)


id buy one









Does anyone know where I can buy really long extensions for my fittings? I wanted to do a 90 degree to a long extension to make it up to the top of the case where my radiator is. I really don't want to do it in tubing and I've seen some long extensions on a few build but can't seem to find them.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tezza192*
> 
> My 600t, first crack at watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I7 3770k
> GTX 680 SLI
> 16gb RAM
> Asus Z77 Deluxe MB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks very good and clean. Makes me want to water cool my 600T again, this time trying a 200mm rad in the front. Seems it's becoming more popular.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> @ micronccr345 - Whose build is that ? I don't think I've seen it till now - I like that loop, would like to know more bout its loop, specifically the 2 hoses going thru the right panel roof.


That's a build he did for a friend of his. The log his in is sig, but here ya go http://www.overclock.net/t/1222267/nzxt-switch-810-420-280-build#post_16584694-My-NZXT%20Switch%20810-420/280-Build.html


----------



## superericla

$450 to spend. Should I upgrade to a 3930k, or begin to buy parts to a 4P build?


----------



## kpforce1

Got my second 670 FTW 4gb







. Spend a few hours redoing the trooper and wiring







What a nightmare. I picked up some crystal link tubes and some monson light port fittings and they are saweet!

Oh, and my second Heatkiller 680 block does NOT have the same fitting attachment as the first one I got







What the hell is that? The spacing is an 1/8" an inch off on EACH port lol. Luckily the crystal link tubes still fit snugly but they are a little crooked from top to bottom. The fitting attachment blocks don't even look the same... the new one has the "Watercool" logo on it and is a better looking piece imho


----------



## nyk20z3

Are those scratches on the crystal link tubes ?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> $450 to spend. Should I upgrade to a 3930k, or begin to buy parts to a 4P build?


4P







Just had some 6128's delivered myself.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Are those scratches on the crystal link tubes ?


Nope







they are little bubbles flowing through and the shutter time on my camera makes them streak as they moved. I thought it looked pretty cool so I snapped a pic of it. Tube on the left has a UV LED and the one on the right has a white LED.


----------



## Disillusionist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Got my second 670 FTW 4gb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Spend a few hours redoing the trooper and wiring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a nightmare. I picked up some crystal link tubes and some monson light port fittings and they are saweet!
> Oh, and my second Heatkiller 680 block does NOT have the same fitting attachment as the first one I got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the hell is that? The spacing is an 1/8" an inch off on EACH port lol. Luckily the crystal link tubes still fit snugly but they are a little crooked from top to bottom. The fitting attachment blocks don't even look the same... the new one has the "Watercool" logo on it and is a better looking piece imho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet








I wish I could afford a single GTX670. I planed on buying one this month but I couldn't cut it. Hopefully next month.
_It will be mine, oh yes it will be mine._


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Nope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they are little bubbles flowing through and the shutter time on my camera makes them streak as they moved. I thought it looked pretty cool so I snapped a pic of it. Tube on the left has a UV LED and the one on the right has a white LED.


That looks sick. Awesome how you got it to turn out like that. Very cool.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tezza192*
> 
> My 600t, first crack at watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I7 3770k
> GTX 680 SLI
> 16gb RAM
> Asus Z77 Deluxe MB
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome rig







. Now to buy the new EK block so they all match and life is good. I LOVE 600T builds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can buy really long extensions for my fittings? I wanted to do a 90 degree to a long extension to make it up to the top of the case where my radiator is. I really don't want to do it in tubing and I've seen some long extensions on a few build but can't seem to find them.


50mm is the longest I have seen. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_616&products_id=29816


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one know more about this guy?:
> 
> http://koolance.com/pmp-500-pump-g-1-4-bsp
> 7.5m of head pressure


I have one sitting in my room, just waiting to go in.

I should have it up and going Tuesday or Wednesday.

Seriously hope it is a bit better then the MCP355 and MCP655 's

Because that is what I am counting on, especially with the price being more.

Just found the following showing it is some what stronger then the PMP-400 and PMP450s

PMP-500


PMP-450s


PMP-400


----------



## oceanlyner

Finally got a 7970 block and a new res and pump


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oceanlyner*
> 
> Finally got a 7970 block and a new res and pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What is the tubing and fittings?

and is it fine to place the pump like you did?


----------



## PTCB

I'm leak testing my loop atm. Just one question, though. I know that you should never let the pump run dry.

However due to my hard to access res, it happened a couple of time (2-3 seconds each). Is there anything I should be worried about? Thanks.


----------



## Fonne

*EKWB releases it's first bay reservoir / pump combo unit*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/270/19/EKWB-releases-it-s-first-bay-reservoir-pump-combo-unit/


----------



## derickwm

My thoughts on that...

It isn't terrible looking but I would have much preferred if it worked with the DDC or D5. Also if they're going to use CSQ then please cover the whole front... I'm sure the "min" & "max" would have fit in a circle. Other than those two things, it's a decent looking unit.


----------



## Fuganater

its great for all those old DCP pumps I have hangin around.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> I'm leak testing my loop atm. Just one question, though. I know that you should never let the pump run dry.
> However due to my hard to access res, it happened a couple of time (2-3 seconds each). Is there anything I should be worried about? Thanks.


The reason for not letting pumps run dry is that they can not move air.

They there for burnout.

But only a short period should be OK.

Just don't make it a regular thing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> its great for all those old DCP pumps I have hangin around.












Everyone loves a Jingway!


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> id buy one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks







- Milling POM is just so lovely







... The final edition will get his nickname engraved on the top (Already done some test) ...


----------



## steelkevin

Is it normal that I can only feel a flow around the pump (the only place where I feel a flow is in those two tubes):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I'm still worried about my loop and think the temps are wrong (and not feeling a flow anywhere else than there makes me think the pump is doing a good job, it's second hand/2 years-old and I ran it dry on my first try for quite a while, it still runs @3813rpm btw).

My ambient is between 19° and 23° and my load temps are 54/52/52/54 on a stock i7-860. Idle temps are really weird as they are very unstable and above ambient (24/22/27/23 min right now with a 23.3° ambient but temps are currently 29/27/31/27 when the only thing I'm doing is browsing on a single page and the CPU usage is only 2% and max temps are 39/35/38/36 when all I've been doing is browsing).


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Is it normal that I can only feel a flow around the pump (the only place where I feel a flow is in those two tubes):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still worried about my loop and think the temps are wrong (and not feeling a flow anywhere else than there makes me think the pump is doing a good job, it's second hand/2 years-old and I ran it dry on my first try for quite a while, it still runs @3813rpm btw).
> My ambient is between 19° and 23° and my load temps are 54/52/52/54 on a stock i7-860. Idle temps are really weird as they are very unstable and above ambient (24/22/27/23 min right now with a 23.3° ambient but temps are currently 29/27/31/27 when the only thing I'm doing is browsing on a single page and the CPU usage is only 2% and max temps are 39/35/38/36 when all I've been doing is browsing).


Not being an Intel person not 100% sure but your temps seem fine.

But that feeling the flow thing, is it flow you feel or just vibration?

I would say the pump is working since your temps change.

Plus if they are Noctua's fans on your rad. they do not move a lot of air. But are extremely quiet. My


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Not being an Intel person not 100% sure but your temps seem fine.
> But that feeling the flow thing, is it flow you feel or just vibration?
> I would say the pump is working since your temps change.
> Plus if they are Noctua's fans on your rad. they do not move a lot of air. But are extremely quiet. My


Explained it here before but I can't remember everything I read and see here so I wouldn't expect anybody else to. The total loop cost me 195€ and the 4 Noctuas (I've got 2 Yate loons up top) were included with the two rads and all. I really don't know much (anything) about how to pick the right rad fans but if you say those noctuas are bad for rads I'll change them whenever I can (plus, they don't even start spinning when I boot my PC, I've got to boot them at full speed and take them down to minimum after or else they just won't spin).

Good question about whether it's flow or vibrations. I'll touch them again and tell you








EDIT: you're right, it's vibrations but I can definitely slight feel a flow between the CPU to the reservoir.
Are you supposed to feel flow or am I just being paranoid ?

EDIT 2: A friend of mine is on air with a Dark Rock pro 2 and with a 19° ambient he gets 19/19/19/20 on all cores @idle and they don't get high like mine. He does have an AMD CPU though (can't remember which one, it's the one that can use 6 cores but only has 4 activated) but I'd expect ambient temps @idle with 280mm rads on an intel CPU if people can do so on air with an AMD one (although they run cool).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well,she is wired up,now just waiting for EK or XSPC to get back to me about sponsoring a loop for this....




























Im keen to OC and bench this little rocket.


----------



## derickwm

You're just being paranoid







I have dual D5S pumps in serial running at 24V and I can't feel the flow.

Those temps are a tad high for being at stock and is probably either related to the TIM/mount or airflow in the case. Even with WC'ing airflow in a case can still be a slight factor.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Good question about whether it's flow or vibrations. I'll touch them again and tell you smile.gif
> EDIT: you're right, it's vibrations but I can definitely slight feel a flow between the CPU to the reservoir.
> Are you supposed to feel flow or am I just being paranoid ?


Just paranoid


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You're just being paranoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I have dual D5S pumps in serial running at 24V and I can't feel the flow.*
> Those temps are a tad high for being at stock and is probably either related to the TIM/mount or airflow in the case. Even with WC'ing airflow in a case can still be a slight factor.


Same here,i can only feel vibration....i do have copper pipes however.
But when i max the pumps and the water level drops an inch then i know they are working!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My thoughts on that...
> It isn't terrible looking but I would have much preferred if it worked with the DDC or D5. Also if they're going to use CSQ then please cover the whole front... I'm sure the "min" & "max" would have fit in a circle. Other than those two things, it's a decent looking unit.


Hi Derrick,

DCP4.0, D5 & DDC are to follow









Regards,
Niko


----------



## derickwm

Good to hear Nikko


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My thoughts on that...
> It isn't terrible looking but I would have much preferred if it worked with the DDC or D5. Also if they're going to use CSQ then please cover the whole front... I'm sure the "min" & "max" would have fit in a circle. Other than those two things, it's a decent looking unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Derrick,
> 
> DCP4.0, D5 & DDC are to follow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Niko
Click to expand...

Nice! I just noticed that res is for a 2.2 pump... I have a couple 4.0 ones.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Just paranoid


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You're just being paranoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have dual D5S pumps in serial running at 24V and I can't feel the flow.
> Those temps are a tad high for being at stock and is probably either related to the TIM/mount or airflow in the case. Even with WC'ing airflow in a case can still be a slight factor.


Ok then definitely just paranoid, thanks







.

Well if those noctua fans shouldn't be used on rads / aren't meant for rads could that explain higher temps ?

the TIM is Ceramic 2 (couldn't afford any and all I had was overpriced CM rubbish left overs and an empty NT-H1 syringe). I used the Rice grain method (and added two tiny dots on each side of it, looked like a "christian" cross, no offense, I don't know the proper word and couldn't explain it). The Block is finger tight.

I'm glad nobody came up with "you might have air in your loop" btw. Because there is no way I do. The loop ran externally for half a day and I moved everything several times in every possible way to get every last bubble out and once I put it all in the case I tilted it to be sure and all).

EDIT: this is how my fans are set now (no filter on the front one any more btw)


EDIT2: Just downlaod RealTemp and look at the temps reported by HWMonitor Pro and RealTemp simultaneously

I always trusted HWMonitor...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Ok then definitely just paranoid, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Well if those noctua fans shouldn't be used on rads / aren't meant for rads could that explain higher temps ?
> the TIM is Ceramic 2 (couldn't afford any and all I had was overpriced CM rubbish left overs and an empty NT-H1 syringe). I used the Rice grain method (and added two tiny dots on each side of it, looked like a "christian" cross, no offense, I don't know the proper word and couldn't explain it). The Block is finger tight.
> I'm glad nobody came up with "you might have air in your loop" btw. Because there is no way I do. The loop ran externally for half a day and I moved everything several times in every possible way to get every last bubble out and once I put it all in the case I tilted it to be sure and all).
> EDIT: this is how my fans are set now (no filter on the front one any more btw)
> 
> EDIT2: Just downlaod RealTemp and look at the temps reported by HWMonitor Pro and RealTemp simultaneously
> 
> I always trusted HWMonitor...


It is not that them fans are bad or anything, they jus typically have poor static pressure and some times also poor cfm.

Also stop worrying about idle temps. They do not mean much at all. For instance AMD chips do not start showing near true temps till they reach about 40 or so celsius.


----------



## Fonne

I would take cold air from the outside into the RAD in the top, just like you do in the bottom ....


----------



## Fonne

Just saw the Alphacool NexXxoS Cool Answer kits on frozen, are they new ? - Looks like some really nice kits (120, 240, 360, 480)

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17361/ex-wat-228/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Cool_Answer_480_DDCXT_-_Kit.html


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> I'm leak testing my loop atm. Just one question, though. I know that you should never let the pump run dry.
> However due to my hard to access res, it happened a couple of time (2-3 seconds each). Is there anything I should be worried about? Thanks.


I have accidentally run an Alphacool vpp655 dry for over a minute or so and I worried too. Still running Great 6 weeks later.. If that helps..


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> It is not that them fans are bad or anything, they jus typically have poor static pressure and some times also poor cfm.
> Also stop worrying about idle temps. They do not mean much at all. For instance AMD chips do not start showing near true temps till they reach about 40 or so celsius.


Well, a fan with poor static pressure and poor cfm sounds like a bad fan to me :s.
And you're right, idle temps don't mean anything but they still worried me. What I was trying to point out on that last Screenshot there was that HWMonitor reported way higher temps than RealTemp. I was wondering which I should trust and which you guys use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> I would take cold air from the outside into the RAD in the top, just like you do in the bottom ....


Not sure I quite understand what (more why) you"re saying.
The top rad gets fresh air from the back of the case (so outside) and the bottom one intakes some from underneath the case, the front fan then sucks that hot air out through the front to reduce impact on internal (case) temps and therefore GPU temps.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Just saw the Alphacool NexXxoS Cool Answer kits on frozen, are they new ? - Looks like some really nice kits (120, 240, 360, 480)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17361/ex-wat-228/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Cool_Answer_480_DDCXT_-_Kit.html


Just more group packaging of a bunch of marginal stuff to look like a real custom loop to sucker in noobs at a low price point, only to disappoint later.

The rad is the only really decent piece in the mix, (it's the 45mm, not the 60mm) the res is a cheapie and the pump is the 10W model.

Just another good reason to avoid kits.

Darlene


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Not sure I quite understand what (more why) you"re saying.
> The top rad gets fresh air from the back of the case (so outside) and the bottom one intakes some from underneath the case, the front fan then sucks that hot air out through the front to reduce impact on internal (case) temps and therefore GPU temps.


To get the coldest air into your RAD - The air you are cooling the rad with now is already heated from the case - Most people gets better water temp when their rads are pulling fresh air, and not from the inside of the case ...
Quote:


> and the pump is the 10W model.


Most people dont need anything more than the 10W model ....


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> To get the coldest air into your RAD - The air you are cooling the rad with now is already heated from the case - Most people gets better water temp when their rads are pulling fresh air, and not from the inside of the case ...
> Most people dont need anything more than the 10W model ....


OH ! I thought you were talking about the rear and front 120s, my bad.

Well my GPU gets REALLY hot. By that I mean it goes up to 77° while playing BF3 which is totally insane, I used to get 60/65 max before watercooling (but as you can see here it was empty). And I thought that pulling air through the top of the case into the top rad would make the case temps even higher and heat the GPU even more.
And the top rad is fixed in place hanging on the fans so flipping them would mean taking the rad off... I guess I'll put the case on its side and flip the top rad fans to intake and the rear one back to out take.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Just saw the Alphacool NexXxoS Cool Answer kits on frozen, are they new ? - Looks like some really nice kits (120, 240, 360, 480)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17361/ex-wat-228/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Cool_Answer_480_DDCXT_-_Kit.html


Looks great if you're on a budget! Otherwise as Darlene said most of the stuff is just meh.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just more group packaging of a bunch of marginal stuff to look like a real custom loop to sucker in noobs at a low price point, only to disappoint later.
> The rad is the only really decent piece in the mix, (it's the 45mm, not the 60mm) the res is a cheapie and the pump is the 10W model.
> 
> Darlene


This!


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> OH ! I thought you were talking about the rear and front 120s, my bad.
> Well my GPU gets REALLY hot. By that I mean it goes up to 77° while playing BF3 which is totally insane, I used to get 60/65 max before watercooling (but as you can see here it was empty). And I thought that pulling air through the top of the case into the top rad would make the case temps even higher and heat the GPU even more.
> And the top rad is fixed in place hanging on the fans so flipping them would mean taking the rad off... I guess I'll put the case on its side and flip the top rad fans to intake and the rear one back to out take.


It could make some of your other temps higher, but think that you should give it a try, can always go back







....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> OH ! I thought you were talking about the rear and front 120s, my bad.
> Well my GPU gets REALLY hot. By that I mean it goes up to 77° while playing BF3 which is totally insane, I used to get 60/65 max before watercooling (but as you can see here it was empty). And I thought that pulling air through the top of the case into the top rad would make the case temps even higher and heat the GPU even more.
> And the top rad is fixed in place hanging on the fans so flipping them would mean taking the rad off... *I guess I'll put the case on its side and flip the top rad fans to intake and the rear one back to out take.*


Before you go to that much trouble, first try swapping direction on the front fan and rear fans only.

Make the front an intake, and the rear an exhaust.

What you have now seems like it's working as 2 local air flow loops, where what comes in at the bottom is mostly pulled out the front, and what pushes in from the rear is pulled out the top.

There's almost no flow between the upper portion of the case and the lower portion, especially across the GPU.

That's causing the GPU to heat the air under it and then that air isn't being moved away.

With the front fan as intake, it'll help push the air back towards the GPU to give it some fresher air.

With the rear as an exhaust, it'll help pull that heated air from around the GPU up and out.

Darlene


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> @ micronccr345 - Whose build is that ? I don't think I've seen it till now - I like that loop, would like to know more bout its loop, specifically the 2 hoses going thru the right panel roof.


Thanks! I build it for a friend. Check out my sig for the link.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What size tubes are these


7/16" x 5/8" over 1/2 Barbs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks very good and clean. Makes me want to water cool my 600T again, this time trying a 200mm rad in the front. Seems it's becoming more popular.
> That's a build he did for a friend of his. The log his in is sig, but here ya go http://www.overclock.net/t/1222267/nzxt-switch-810-420-280-build#post_16584694-My-NZXT%20Switch%20810-420/280-Build.html


Thanks bud!


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> It is not that them fans are bad or anything, they jus typically have poor static pressure and some times also poor cfm.
> Also stop worrying about idle temps. They do not mean much at all. For instance AMD chips do not start showing near true temps till they reach about 40 or so celsius.


......


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Ok then definitely just paranoid, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Well if those noctua fans shouldn't be used on rads / aren't meant for rads could that explain higher temps ?
> the TIM is Ceramic 2 (couldn't afford any and all I had was overpriced CM rubbish left overs and an empty NT-H1 syringe). I used the Rice grain method (and added two tiny dots on each side of it, looked like a "christian" cross, no offense, I don't know the proper word and couldn't explain it). The Block is finger tight.
> I'm glad nobody came up with "you might have air in your loop" btw. Because there is no way I do. The loop ran externally for half a day and I moved everything several times in every possible way to get every last bubble out and once I put it all in the case I tilted it to be sure and all).
> EDIT: this is how my fans are set now (no filter on the front one any more btw)
> 
> EDIT2: Just downlaod RealTemp and look at the temps reported by HWMonitor Pro and RealTemp simultaneously
> 
> I always trusted HWMonitor...


HW monitor isn't recommended for monitoring temps. It usually reports 'off'' values. Real Temp and Core Temp are still much better and recommended to use.


----------



## Indulgence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tezza192*
> 
> My 600t, first crack at watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I7 3770k
> GTX 680 SLI
> 16gb RAM
> Asus Z77 Deluxe MB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


man, that is so clean build! nice one!


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Before you go to that much trouble, first try swapping direction on the front fan and rear fans only.
> Make the front an intake, and the rear an exhaust.
> What you have now seems like it's working as 2 local air flow loops, where what comes in at the bottom is mostly pulled out the front, and what pushes in from the rear is pulled out the top.
> There's almost no flow between the upper portion of the case and the lower portion, especially across the GPU.
> That's causing the GPU to heat the air under it and then that air isn't being moved away.
> With the front fan as intake, it'll help push the air back towards the GPU to give it some fresher air.
> With the rear as an exhaust, it'll help pull that heated air from around the GPU up and out.
> Darlene


They were like that to start with (as you might be able to see on the old photo where I added arrows).
But since my GPU temps were 75° with BF3 I thought flipping the front fan would pull the bottom rad's hot air straight out instead of heating up the GPU. Idle temps dropped but apperently load temps went up 2°.
I flipped the rear fan like an hour after (ok, maybe it was a day, can't remember) because I figured that it was pulling the air out and not leaving much for the rad so flipping it would give the rad some cool air.
Flipping that fan didn't change anything at all. Neither GPU nor CPU temps.

That being said, I've got 2 200mm NZXT fans in the cupboard and I could just put one on the side but I'll eventually put a window and I don't want to get used to having the side one (actually I'll make the window once my GPU is underwater, I might even wait untill I get a pretty mobo and all so I guess I could add a side fan but I don't really care about that GPU, if anything I actually want it to fail so I can RMA it and get a normal card as replacement if not even a new Gen one once their out of 560 Ti).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> HW monitor isn't recommended for monitoring temps. It usually reports 'off'' values. Real Temp and Core Temp are still much better and recommended to use.


Yeah, sadly, I just got confirmation of that:

HWMonitor Pro always displayed 54/52/52/54 (after an hour, two or twelve of Prime95). Those temps were after only an hour of Prime.

one went up to 57°, stock load temps on a 50€ heatsink would probably be something like 60/70, right ? There's no way two 280mm rads should perform around 60° / the same as a good air cooler.
I'll start Prime tomorrow morning before going to school and will see if the temps reach 60 with RealTemp...

So, To Do:
-Flip the rear and front fan.
-Take the top rad off and flip its fans.
-Install a side 200mm fan (intake ?)
-Maybe remount the CPU.
-And switch the bottom rad's straight fitting for the spare 45°.

I doubt I'll do the forth and I'm almost sure I won't do the fith today.

EDIT: @Fonne, just spent some time looking at every rig I could find in signatures (build logs) or photos directly posted here. Most of them had their top rad taking the case's air and throwing it out of the case. Maybe they all made the same mistake as I but why wouldn't people have spread the word by now ?
I'm not saying you're wrong but I find weird that so less people would do the right thing.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Was asked to make a top to some old cobber bottoms, so they could work again ... This is just a prototype, still need some changes (Dont have all the dimensions)
> Was done a little fast, but turned out pretty well ... My FIRST watercooling part that I have made, its fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Its not made to be a killer performer, but just simple and easy/fast to make)


You're an creative engineer!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one know more about this guy?:
> 
> http://koolance.com/pmp-500-pump-g-1-4-bsp
> 7.5m of head pressure


Yeah cool, but i wondering why koolance still selling [D5+ Reservoirs] Drive Bay Bay for D5 PUMP? C'mon...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> They were like that to start with (as you might be able to see on the old photo where I added arrows).
> But since my GPU temps were 75° with BF3 I thought flipping the front fan would pull the bottom rad's hot air straight out instead of heating up the GPU. Idle temps dropped but apperently load temps went up 2°.
> I flipped the rear fan like an hour after (ok, maybe it was a day, can't remember) because I figured that it was pulling the air out and not leaving much for the rad so flipping it would give the rad some cool air.
> Flipping that fan didn't change anything at all. Neither GPU nor CPU temps.
> That being said, I've got 2 200mm NZXT fans in the cupboard and I could just put one on the side but I'll eventually put a window and I don't want to get used to having the side one (actually I'll make the window once my GPU is underwater, I might even wait untill I get a pretty mobo and all so I guess I could add a side fan but I don't really care about that GPU, if anything I actually want it to fail so I can RMA it and get a normal card as replacement if not even a new Gen one once their out of 560 Ti).
> Yeah, sadly, I just got confirmation of that:
> 
> HWMonitor Pro always displayed 54/52/52/54 (after an hour, two or twelve of Prime95). Those temps were after only an hour of Prime.
> one went up to 57°, stock load temps on a 50€ heatsink would probably be something like 60/70, right ? There's no way two 280mm rads should perform around 60° / the same as a good air cooler.
> I'll start Prime tomorrow morning before going to school and will see if the temps reach 60 with RealTemp...
> So, To Do:
> -Flip the rear and front fan.
> -Take the top rad off and flip its fans.
> -Install a side 200mm fan (intake ?)
> -Maybe remount the CPU.
> -And switch the bottom rad's straight fitting for the spare 45°.
> I doubt I'll do the forth and I'm almost sure I won't do the fith today.
> EDIT: @Fonne, just spent some time looking at every rig I could find in signatures (build logs) or photos directly posted here. Most of them had their top rad taking the case's air and throwing it out of the case. Maybe they all made the same mistake as I but why wouldn't people have spread the word by now ?
> I'm not saying you're wrong but I find weird that so less people would do the right thing.


I have all my rads as intakes and one 120 as an exhaust.

Positive pressure FTW...less dust also.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> You're an creative engineer!.


Thanks







... Really nice to get some positive feedback on that first watercooling part that I made myself - Would just love to make more cooling / modding stuff to the community in the future ...


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have all my rads as intakes and one 120 as an exhaust.
> Positive pressure FTW...less dust also.


Wouldn't having everything as intake block some air in the center of the case (not sure what would happen then, maybe an air explosion or a black hole







) ?
I can see how having every fan exhausting would reduce dust (because it'd be pushing dust away before it even gets a chance to enter) but wouldn't pulling air in pull dust in from every possible are in the case too ? Maybe that's what would happen with the blocked air, a huge dust ball would just be floating in the middle of your case ^^.

Btw, I flipped my front fan and added the dust filter, flipped my rear one and added a 200mm side fan as intake. I haven't done any testing but it doesn't feel like it made any difference. I don't want to play BF3 right now but I guess I just have to xD.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Wouldn't having everything as intake block some air in the center of the case (not sure what would happen then, maybe an air explosion or a black hole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) ?
> I can see how having every fan exhausting would reduce dust (because it'd be pushing dust away before it even gets a chance to enter) but wouldn't pulling air in pull dust in from every possible are in the case too ? Maybe that's what would happen with the blocked air, a huge dust ball would just be floating in the middle of your case ^^.
> Btw, I flipped my front fan and added the dust filter, flipped my rear one and added a 200mm side fan as intake. I haven't done any testing but it doesn't feel like it made any difference. I don't want to play BF3 right now but I guess I just have to xD.


With the amount of grills and whatnot,the air gets sucked in by the fans and blows out thru these escapes,the dust doesnt settle like a directed airflow or negative pressure case.


----------



## Ghost12

New build completed and first venture into the water.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> New build completed and first venture into the water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Next up is to cool the GPUs!!


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Next up is to cool the GPUs!!


Yes definitely. That's why bought the separate pump and the d5 with top first time round. Just wanted to complete this part successfully first


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Yes definitely. That's why bought the separate pump and the d5 with top first time round. Just wanted to complete this part successfully first


You could do with tightening up the tubing,less tube=better....


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could do with tightening up the tubing,less tube=better....


Good point. Was my first try and rightly or wrongly used barbs so just didn't want the bends to be too tight regards pressure from angle to the barbs. When extend to the gpu x 2 will tighten them up. Running very well though regards temps. The difference over h100 under consistent load, ie few hours of prime is amazing. Very pleased with it overall so far


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Just paranoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You're just being paranoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have dual D5S pumps in serial running at 24V and I can't feel the flow.
> Those temps are a tad high for being at stock and is probably either related to the TIM/mount or airflow in the case. Even with WC'ing airflow in a case can still be a slight factor.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok then definitely just paranoid, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Well if those noctua fans shouldn't be used on rads / aren't meant for rads could that explain higher temps ?
> 
> the TIM is Ceramic 2 (couldn't afford any and all I had was overpriced CM rubbish left overs and an empty NT-H1 syringe). I used the Rice grain method (and added two tiny dots on each side of it, looked like a "christian" cross, no offense, I don't know the proper word and couldn't explain it). The Block is finger tight.
> 
> I'm glad nobody came up with "you might have air in your loop" btw. Because there is no way I do. The loop ran externally for half a day and I moved everything several times in every possible way to get every last bubble out and once I put it all in the case I tilted it to be sure and all).
> 
> EDIT: this is how my fans are set now (no filter on the front one any more btw)
> 
> 
> EDIT2: Just downlaod RealTemp and look at the temps reported by HWMonitor Pro and RealTemp simultaneously
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always trusted HWMonitor...
Click to expand...

Apologies if I have this wrong but that rear fan is not Intaking. It's Exhausting.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies if I have this wrong but that rear fan is not Intaking. It's Exhausting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well spotted. Eyes like a hawk. It is indeed exhausting


----------



## wermad

I just ordered a few Monstas


----------



## derickwm




----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies if I have this wrong but that rear fan is not Intaking. It's Exhausting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Well spotted. Eyes like a hawk. It is indeed exhausting


I didn't express myself well enough. What I tried to say was that the arrows were how stuff was at the time I posted that and that how the fans were didn't matter since it was an old photo.
Acutally I did say it later. I was answering Darlene who was suggesting I set my fans that way and I told her that the posted photo was with them set up as she was suggesting.
I'm probably still not making sense...

On that Photo, the rear is indeed exhausting. That photo was taken a day or two after I put the loop in my case.
I couldn't be bothered to take new photos so I took that one and added arrows. Red arrows for hot air. Blue ones for cool air.

Anyway, a couple hours ago I flipped the front and rear fan and they are now as on that photo (so as they used to be when I first put the loop together) and added a side 200mm fan as intake.
My GPU is 4° cooler in game.
I didn't pay attention to CPU temps though but I'll leave prime running tomorrow.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Well spotted. Eyes like a hawk. It is indeed exhausting


Eyes like a hawk is right. I've seen that pic several times and never noticed.


----------



## steelkevin

You didn't notice how there was a dust filter on the front fan when I said it was exhausting though







(it would be pretty silly to trap the dust inside of the case).

Oh ! I finally understood how that bottom to top rad tube got so tight when I'd planned everything right ! Thing is there was a 45° fitting there when I took the measurements for the tubing. I somehow hadn't noticed that with a straight fitting on the top rad (to cpu) it wouldn't work. When I put it all in that hose was as kinked as possible so I took the bottom 45° and put it up there. That's how the bottom rad ended up with a straight fitting and the tubing too tight.
(Really happy I figured that out, it's been bugging me forever).

I'd just swap it out for the spare 45° I'd ordered just in case I needed more angles than I thought but that's a full bottle of mayhems concentrated blue berry pastel and a full bottle of blue dye. I wouldn't waste that even if I could afford it so I've got to rinse a jug or something with DI water and poor the coolant into it and then change the fitting as quick as possible so the coolant doesn't get contaminated by anything.
Oh and I'd have to take the CPU block off and all (unless you guys see a way of draining my loop without moving anything else but the res ?). So that's too much hustle for a Sunday


----------



## oceanlyner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> What is the tubing and fittings?
> and is it fine to place the pump like you did?


Bitspower compresion fittings (couple of barbs on the gpus), and primochill tube.

The pump is fine, as long as it can draw water from the res you can mount it in almost any orientation.


----------



## jagz

Fugan, can you share your temps again? What temps are you looking at per prime, [email protected] or whatever, at different clocks? Aswell as a before/after estimate again on the rad stand?



Ambient is around 24c, It's usually hotter up here though.
Modest 4.4Ghz clock, folding a 8049 SMP Wu.
Ignore the minimum, turned on realtemp as I was [email protected] Idle is around 30c.

2700k runs a good 10c hotter @ 4.6Ghz with a rather minor vcore increase


----------



## Fonne

Are there any news about some 140mm fans to RADS hitting the market ? ... Swiftech was talking about a 140mm Helix, but any else ?


----------



## lowfat

Hopefully the Noiseblocker eLoop 140mm fans come sooner than later.


----------



## Fonne

Sounds great, the eLoop look like a nice fans







- Just want the best 140mm (Noise / Pressure)


----------



## NewHighScore

I think the BGears or Akasa viper's have the highest static pressure for 140's. Not sure about the noise though.







I have 9 vipers in the mail I will let you know how they sound .


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Fugan, can you share your temps again? What temps are you looking at per prime, [email protected] or whatever, at different clocks? Aswell as a before/after estimate again on the rad stand?
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient is around 24c, It's usually hotter up here though.
> Modest 4.4Ghz clock, folding a 8049 SMP Wu.
> Ignore the minimum, turned on realtemp as I was [email protected] Idle is around 30c.
> 
> 2700k runs a good 10c hotter @ 4.6Ghz with a rather minor vcore increase


Well intel runs hotter than AMD and I'm running an FX-8150

Here are my temps with [email protected] running. FX8120 @3.4GHz and 4x GTX460 @stock clocks.

Rad stand intake is about 26C, exhaust is 28C. Intake on the tower is 24-25C, exhaust is 30C. Water temp is 32-33C.


Without the rad stand:
All GPU temps were around 10C higher
CPU was about 5C higher
Water temp was 15C higher


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Fugan, can you share your temps again? What temps are you looking at per prime, [email protected] or whatever, at different clocks? Aswell as a before/after estimate again on the rad stand?
> 
> Ambient is around 24c, It's usually hotter up here though.
> Modest 4.4Ghz clock, folding a 8049 SMP Wu.
> Ignore the minimum, turned on realtemp as I was [email protected] Idle is around 30c.
> 2700k runs a good 10c hotter @ 4.6Ghz with a rather minor vcore increase


Those are good temps while folding. I get about the same thing unless it starts getting hot outside. Funny thing about those 8000 series units is I get readings all over the board and for some reason they make my GPU temps appear to run around 10c hotter when I'm just using the CPU to fold.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just ordered a few Monstas


Glad i could help..














Hey and Thanks Again for Those..


----------



## RKTGX95

regarding Monsta rads, what would be better? a 120 Monsta or a XSPC EX 240 ? (fans would be Corsair SP120 QE / PE with reducer or controlled)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Glad i could help..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey and Thanks Again for Those..










Thanks







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> regarding Monsta rads, what would be better? a 120 Monsta or a XSPC EX 240 ? (fans would be Corsair SP120 QE / PE with reducer or controlled)


35mm vs 86mm. The Monsta is still a bit bigger. Keep in mind you'll have to account for 25mm of fan on the Monsta, so that will take you to ~111mm. Push/pull you're approaching ~136mm. Its thick, make sure you have the space for it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Just paranoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You're just being paranoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have dual D5S pumps in serial running at 24V and I can't feel the flow.
> Those temps are a tad high for being at stock and is probably either related to the TIM/mount or airflow in the case. Even with WC'ing airflow in a case can still be a slight factor.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok then definitely just paranoid, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Well if those noctua fans shouldn't be used on rads / aren't meant for rads could that explain higher temps ?
> 
> the TIM is Ceramic 2 (couldn't afford any and all I had was overpriced CM rubbish left overs and an empty NT-H1 syringe). I used the Rice grain method (and added two tiny dots on each side of it, looked like a "christian" cross, no offense, I don't know the proper word and couldn't explain it). The Block is finger tight.
> 
> I'm glad nobody came up with "you might have air in your loop" btw. Because there is no way I do. The loop ran externally for half a day and I moved everything several times in every possible way to get every last bubble out and once I put it all in the case I tilted it to be sure and all).
> 
> EDIT: this is how my fans are set now (no filter on the front one any more btw)
> 
> 
> EDIT2: Just downlaod RealTemp and look at the temps reported by HWMonitor Pro and RealTemp simultaneously
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always trusted HWMonitor...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Apologies if I have this wrong but that rear fan is not Intaking. It's Exhausting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> You didn't notice how there was a dust filter on the front fan when I said it was exhausting though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (it would be pretty silly to trap the dust inside of the case).
> 
> Oh ! I finally understood how that bottom to top rad tube got so tight when I'd planned everything right ! Thing is there was a 45° fitting there when I took the measurements for the tubing. I somehow hadn't noticed that with a straight fitting on the top rad (to cpu) it wouldn't work. When I put it all in that hose was as kinked as possible so I took the bottom 45° and put it up there. That's how the bottom rad ended up with a straight fitting and the tubing too tight.
> (Really happy I figured that out, it's been bugging me forever).
> 
> I'd just swap it out for the spare 45° I'd ordered just in case I needed more angles than I thought but that's a full bottle of mayhems concentrated blue berry pastel and a full bottle of blue dye. I wouldn't waste that even if I could afford it so I've got to rinse a jug or something with DI water and poor the coolant into it and then change the fitting as quick as possible so the coolant doesn't get contaminated by anything.
> Oh and I'd have to take the CPU block off and all (unless you guys see a way of draining my loop without moving anything else but the res ?). So that's too much hustle for a Sunday


Actually they are the blind eyes of an anal retentive OCD'er. But thanks for the compliments.









~Ceadder


----------



## ginger_nuts

^^^^








^^^


----------



## PhantomTaco

Well thought I'd finally post up photos of my near complete build. All that remains now is a backplate I've been working on with Dwood and I'm thinking about changing to gigabyte orange mayhem's pastel to match the orange bits on the cougar fans. Thoughts? Opinions? All are welcome





Be kind, this is my first build ever (watercooled or otherwise) that I've ever built from the ground up myself, pretty proud of it tbh


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 35mm vs 86mm. The Monsta is still a bit bigger. Keep in mind you'll have to account for 25mm of fan on the Monsta, so that will take you to ~111mm. Push/pull you're approaching ~136mm. Its thick, make sure you have the space for it


i mean what is better performance wise?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i mean what is better performance wise?


Quote:


> Info about the Monsta radiators:
> The Monsta radiators, with a thickness of 80mm, are the first of their size on the market. Hence we were just as keen on finding out how they perform as the independent reviewers!
> The tests show that it has significantly increased flow rates than thinner radiators. The cooling performance increased greatly with increased fan speed. Sounds normal, but this radiator shows a different performance profile than standard radiators: At 500rpm the Monsta is slightly better than its 60mm brother, but with increasing fan speed the difference increases: At 800rpm the Monsta already performs much better, and at 1200rpm a Monsta radiator is performing almost as well as a 60mm thick radiator with one fan more, at the same fan speed!
> This is truly amazing, and all that at this affordable price!



Source

According to alphacool, its better than the UT60 (which is one of the best rads out there).

Paired with a great fan, should be better than the ex240 imho.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Well thought I'd finally post up photos of my near complete build. All that remains now is a backplate I've been working on with Dwood and I'm thinking about changing to gigabyte orange mayhem's pastel to match the orange bits on the cougar fans. Thoughts? Opinions? All are welcome
> Be kind, this is my first build ever (watercooled or otherwise) that I've ever built from the ground up myself, pretty proud of it tbh


Nice and clean I like it.. One thing though.. Is that tube touching there?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






And no Orange for you.. Its my new color..


----------



## PhantomTaco

It does touch there lightly yes, but it's more because of the 2 8pin power connectors for the GPU, no realy way to fix it because a 45 degree fitting would make it so I couldn't get it up to the reservoir without bending it upward if that makes sense. As for you using orange, meh







.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Well thought I'd finally post up photos of my near complete build. All that remains now is a backplate I've been working on with Dwood and I'm thinking about changing to gigabyte orange mayhem's pastel to match the orange bits on the cougar fans. Thoughts? Opinions? All are welcome
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be kind, this is my first build ever (watercooled or otherwise) that I've ever built from the ground up myself, pretty proud of it tbh


You should be proud of it. IMO it is better lookin then a majority of the builds I see on here. Great job on your first build!


----------



## socketus

*I doan see no steenking ORUNJ!*

I got a few of those cougar fans sitting round, definately match the dye to the fans, but if we can't see them ... well, I guess you can. Let's see a shot, looking purty purty good for a 1st timer ;-()


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Well thought I'd finally post up photos of my near complete build. All that remains now is a backplate I've been working on with Dwood and I'm thinking about changing to gigabyte orange mayhem's pastel to match the orange bits on the cougar fans. Thoughts? Opinions? All are welcome
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be kind, this is my first build ever (watercooled or otherwise) that I've ever built from the ground up myself, pretty proud of it tbh


The build looks great









But that bad habit is not so good


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The build looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that bad habit is not so good


Thanks for the kind words, and we all have our vices







. Anyone opinions anyone on whether or not I should switch to orange? Just think it would go nicely with the cougars...


----------



## protzman

I think that would look dope! You have to get new fans in that case?
i see you have the less orange versions. i think it would be cool!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words, and we all have our vices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyone opinions anyone on whether or not I should switch to orange? Just think it would go nicely with the cougars...


Nope. Stick with the green. If you want some more get gelid wing uv 120's. THey would match that tubing perfectly.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Yes it would work, but I think the green looks fresh and clean.

Plus it has the whole Nvidia thing working.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words, and we all have our vices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyone opinions anyone on whether or not I should switch to orange? Just think it would go nicely with the cougars...


I think making it as dark green as possible or even black would be classier. That much bright UV green tubing kind of takes over the look of the build IMHO.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> I think making it as dark green as possible or even black would be classier. That much bright UV green tubing kind of takes over the look of the build IMHO.


^this. or imo atleast lose the green LED in the block and swap it for maybe white. Still looks good either way tho man!


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Well thought I'd finally post up photos of my near complete build. All that remains now is a backplate I've been working on with Dwood and I'm thinking about changing to gigabyte orange mayhem's pastel to match the orange bits on the cougar fans. Thoughts? Opinions? All are welcome
> 
> 
> Be kind, this is my first build ever (watercooled or otherwise) that I've ever built from the ground up myself, pretty proud of it tbh


What dye did you use? I like it. Thats the color green I wanted but didnt turn out so well.


----------



## protzman

Mayhems mint green more than likely here it is


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> What dye did you use? I like it. Thats the color green I wanted but didnt turn out so well.


Mayhem's Mint Green it is Clockwerk, awesome stuff. If I do end up keeping this color I'll probably buy some dye from Mayhem's to get the color closer to that of the green LEDs in my case.


----------



## paopaovocal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disillusionist*
> 
> Right me if I'm wrong.
> It looks like a tube leads in to the PSU :O . Is it watercooled too or do I need to check my vision?










I just use it to bear the VGA card.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Well a friend of mine was kind enough to colorize a photo of my system with the gigabyte orange color and this is what I got:


Kinda thinking twice now lol


----------



## _REAPER_

Does anyone know if I will have any issues mounting this into a HAF X, also do I need extenders for the compression fittings for this RAD

Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System 360 Radiator


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Well a friend of mine was kind enough to colorize a photo of my system with the gigabyte orange color and this is what I got:
> 
> Kinda thinking twice now lol


Green is the way to go on your build


----------



## ginger_nuts

Got my last delivery of parts today, just doing my final coat of paint, on the last couple of pieces.
























This is exciting, for me at least.


----------



## smileytown

build log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1290508/smileytowns-dd-lan-tower-build-log


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Does anyone know if I will have any issues mounting this into a HAF X, also do I need extenders for the compression fittings for this RAD
> Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System 360 Radiator


You have asked this question twice now and PMed me regarding it.

The recesses in the inlet/outlets need the BP thread extenders for most fittings



The rad is massive and i think it will struggle to get in that case anyway,i struggled to get them in my Little Devil V8.

Lastly,the rad is not that great,its very restrictive to flow,there are far better rads for the money.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Well a friend of mine was kind enough to colorize a photo of my system with the gigabyte orange color and this is what I got:
> 
> Kinda thinking twice now lol
> 
> 
> 
> Green is the way to go on your build
Click to expand...

Agreed.









~Ceadder


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have asked this question twice now and PMed me regarding it.
> The recesses in the inlet/outlets need the BP thread extenders for most fittings
> 
> The rad is massive and i think it will struggle to get in that case anyway,i struggled to get them in my Little Devil V8.
> Lastly,the rad is not that great,its very restrictive to flow,there are far better rads for the money.


Will this work


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Will this work


Yes.
they do a 5mm extension too,you dont need the length of that one.

In other news,Mayhems replaced my res,not with the exact model,but the version with the clear ends...which looks mint!


----------



## derickwm

Nice to see they finally fixed things with you B-Neg. That res is sharp, might need to pick one up myself










Any other 400mL recommendations?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Nice to see they finally fixed things with you B-Neg. That res is sharp, might need to pick one up myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any other 400mL recommendations?


Wait for the Aqualis 400mm?

Such a beautiful res.....


----------



## derickwm

Oh man I love the Aqualis so much but haven't seen any news concerning a 400mm version. Have you seen anything?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh man I love the Aqualis so much but haven't seen any news concerning a 400mm version. Have you seen anything?


........................no.

Wild speculation on my part,vain hope that it happens....


----------



## Ceadderman

That Res...









I got my Comps up for sale with a Koolance 2/3 VGA fitting and 2 BP 90* fittings. Check my sig if you're interested. I'm currently running them but I may be able to replace them soon depending on how quickly eBay settles some stuff out for me. Unless buyer is not in a super duper ru$h-!!!!!!!!ty-rush rush so I can get the replacements and swap em out. I got the bulk of the funds except for the cost of shipping in my PayPal waiting for me to pull the trigger.









Gonna put some RAM out in the next day or so as well, soon as I get some decent light for pics.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh man I love the Aqualis so much but haven't seen any news concerning a 400mm version. Have you seen anything?
> 
> 
> 
> ........................no.
> 
> Wild speculation on my part,vain hope that it happens....
Click to expand...

Oh







you got my hopes up. I'd definitely buy one immediately if they were to come to retail.


----------



## mandrix

I like my Phobya Balancer Silver Nickel, but I really like that res, B NEGATIVE! Is that something new, or have they been out for a while? Didn't see one when I was res shopping a few weeks ago.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That Res...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You just cant beat a BP res,they are so well made...

I keep looking at my SR-2,looking for ways to shoehorn it in....any way i try to get it in requires Dremel,not sure i want to strip it all just to get a res in.


----------



## Norelec

Hey I am looking to upgrade from a all in one liquad cooler.
i have settled on all the parts i need and am waiting for pay day to place the order.
Then i started thinking about the rad Black Ice GT Stealth 240 ( i like the look of the Black ice rads) i have 2 Noctua NF-F12 fans i will be putting on to the rad but i was wanting to know would i get better performance out that or the Black Ice GTX 240 Rad.
I am cool a Phenom II 955BE & will be adding a GTX 670/680 to the loop soon i hope.


----------



## kpforce1

Just a little FYI for anyone who has ever considered a nickel plated Aquacomputer Aquatube reservoir... the nickel plating on mine was less than stellar. For $80 I would have expected a little more. The packaging was garbage too....this thing is heavy and should have foam padding in the box to prevent movement but there is not. Only cardboard inserts.

I shrugged off the shoddy packaging only to find that when I pulled the tape off holding the acrylic top on, it actually pulled a bit of the nickel plating off







. That is pretty weak. Maybe mine is an exception, but nickel plating also came off when I filled the res a second time.... the o-ring pulled some up with it :/. I'm keeping the res though I'm not dealing with shipping it back etc.... I can prep it and have another coating put on

I also have the white derlin version of this reservoir and it is top notch... of course there is no shoddy nickel plating to deal with either







lol


----------



## jay2nice000

Black Ice XtremeIII Radiator 360
Primochill Myriad Dual Bay D5 Pump reservoir
Primochill 7/16
Swifttech 655 Pump
XSPC RayStorm High Performance Acetal CPU


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norelec*
> 
> Hey I am looking to upgrade from a all in one liquad cooler.
> i have settled on all the parts i need and am waiting for pay day to place the order.
> Then i started thinking about the rad Black Ice GT Stealth 240 ( i like the look of the Black ice rads) i have 2 Noctua NF-F12 fans i will be putting on to the rad but i was wanting to know would i get better performance out that or the Black Ice GTX 240 Rad.
> I am cool a Phenom II 955BE & will be adding a GTX 670/680 to the loop soon i hope.


you'll get better performance if you wait for piledriver or haswell, since you have in your sights a high-end gpu. just my


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> 
> build log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1290508/smileytowns-dd-lan-tower-build-log


This is real nice. Everything the right size...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> version with the clear ends...which looks mint!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does BP make a 150ml in that?

Never mind.. Answered my own Question.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16935/ex-res-418/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM150AC-CL.html?tl=g30c97s165


----------



## PCModderMike

I think I really want to pick up the 250mm version now. Ditch my EK res for the BP, I think it would look a lot nicer.


----------



## Michalius

Quick snapshot of my rebuild. Need to add some blue dye to the concentrate to make it Pastel Green. Right now, looks like it's UV almost.

-Replaced Spectre Pro fans with white edition pro's
-Replaced Bitspower barbs and rotaries for monsoon compression and rotaries.
-Added tailed LEDs to both blocks
-Replaced primochill with duralene
-Painted some case stuff (pics later)


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think I really want to pick up the 250mm version now. Ditch my EK res for the BP, I think it would look a lot nicer.


Me too! The top/bottom is too fat and ugly


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quick snapshot of my rebuild. Need to add some blue dye to the concentrate to make it Pastel Green. Right now, looks like it's UV almost.
> -Replaced Spectre Pro fans with white edition pro's
> -Replaced Bitspower barbs and rotaries for monsoon compression and rotaries.
> -Added tailed LEDs to both blocks
> -Replaced primochill with duralene
> -Painted some case stuff (pics later)


THat looks amazing


----------



## Powermonkey500




----------



## Dhalgren65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words, and we all have our vices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyone opinions anyone on whether or not I should switch to orange? Just think it would go nicely with the cougars...


I went w/XSPC UV red/Orange to match my Cougars.
1 UV led(rice.heh) makes it glow nicely.
Go fer it!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quick snapshot of my rebuild. Need to add some blue dye to the concentrate to make it Pastel Green. Right now, looks like it's UV almost.
> -Replaced Spectre Pro fans with white edition pro's
> -Replaced Bitspower barbs and rotaries for monsoon compression and rotaries.
> -Added tailed LEDs to both blocks
> -Replaced primochill with duralene
> -Painted some case stuff (pics later)


Good lord that's sexy! Nice job.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think I really want to pick up the 250mm version now. Ditch my EK res for the BP, I think it would look a lot nicer.


BP 150 is what I'm running. 250 is quite huge...


----------



## driftingforlife

Just ordered some bits


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Just ordered some bits












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> BP 150 is what I'm running. 250 is quite huge...


My one in my SR2 is 250....my Bench has a 400!

Big res gets women hot.

in my mind


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quick snapshot of my rebuild. Need to add some blue dye to the concentrate to make it Pastel Green. Right now, looks like it's UV almost.
> -Replaced Spectre Pro fans with white edition pro's
> -Replaced Bitspower barbs and rotaries for monsoon compression and rotaries.
> -Added tailed LEDs to both blocks
> -Replaced primochill with duralene
> -Painted some case stuff (pics later)


This is spectacular. I love it


----------



## Michalius

Thanks all!

Going to set the tripod/DSLR up once I get the blue dye in there for a final set of pics. I'm really really happy with how everything turned out.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I like my Phobya Balancer Silver Nickel, but I really like that res, B NEGATIVE! Is that something new, or have they been out for a while? Didn't see one when I was res shopping a few weeks ago.


Like mine too.


----------



## neopunx

My not so spectacular WC system. I am very impressed with the submissions in this thread. You guys are artists with your machines.












TaDa


----------



## Michalius

Looks good!

The secret sauce is angled fittings. Allows for a reduction in tubing which gives the computer a cleaner look.

If you swapped your top radiator so the fittings were on the right side, you could do some direct connections with the bay res to reduce the number of tubes that are in plain sight. I have the same res/pump, here's a picture of what it looked like behind my optical bay before the rebuild.


----------



## neopunx

I like it! Looks like the work is never done(OH NO!!!







)


----------



## FINLAND




----------



## Michalius

After spending ~15 hours getting my loop rebuilt, I finally find a trader for my 690.

Tri-SLI, here I come.


----------



## nyk20z3

Cant' wait to see that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neopunx*
> 
> My not so spectacular WC system. I am very impressed with the submissions in this thread. You guys are artists with your machines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work







.

btw, no need to post *your* pics in spoiler. If you're going to quote someone, then quote one pic and put the rest in spoilers. Make sure everyone can see your build


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Just got my first 240 rad.....I'm starting to feel the itch to buy more rads..... Hopefully posting a custom mod here soon once complete!


----------



## Arknoodle

Wtb msi 670 power edition blocks so I can dip my build in water :-(


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arknoodle*
> 
> Wtb msi 670 power edition blocks so I can dip my build in water :-(


Are there full cover blocks for them? I think you might have to go universal block or get a custom full cover block (can get a bit expensive).


----------



## Michalius

Now that I have some 4GB 670s on the way, the wheels are again spinning.

With three cards, I'm worried about the restrictiveness of the XSPC blocks. I can tell my 690 block is fairly restrictive just from when I was flushing everything last weekend, figured that design will generally carry over to their other blocks. Since there's no data on the subject, I'm left guessing based off this limited information. That being the case, I've narrowed it down to one of two blocks.

Heatkiller (with backplate ofc)



or EK acrylic + nickel



I think I like the Heatkiller blocks a bit more, but I don't know how I feel about them going into my current build. Keep in mind, these cards would ostensibly be going into this:



or maybe I should just bite the bullet, replace my motherboard and case with a LD PC-V7 and... something.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Now that I have some 4GB 670s on the way, the wheels are again spinning.
> With three cards, I'm worried about the restrictiveness of the XSPC blocks. I can tell my 690 block is fairly restrictive just from when I was flushing everything last weekend, figured that design will generally carry over to their other blocks. Since there's no data on the subject, I'm left guessing based off this limited information. That being the case, I've narrowed it down to one of two blocks.
> Heatkiller (with backplate ofc)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or EK acrylic + nickel
> 
> 
> 
> I think I like the Heatkiller blocks a bit more, but I don't know how I feel about them going into my current build. Keep in mind, these cards would ostensibly be going into this:
> 
> or maybe I should just bite the bullet, replace my motherboard and case with a LD PC-V7 and... something.


Which 4gb 670s did you get?

Most gpu blocks are around the same in restriction. Its when you add multiple blocks that you should look into restriction being a concern. Most new pumps will work fine. I had one ddc 3.2 push through three rads, a cpu block, and four DD gtx 480 blocks.


----------



## Michalius

EVGA SC

I know restrictiveness matters when you are adding multiple cards, which is why it's a concern because I'll have three of them. Currently only have a D5 pushing my loop, so I'll probably be upgrading that to two Aquastreams or just going with another D5.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Now that I have some 4GB 670s on the way, the wheels are again spinning.
> With three cards, I'm worried about the restrictiveness of the XSPC blocks. I can tell my 690 block is fairly restrictive just from when I was flushing everything last weekend, figured that design will generally carry over to their other blocks. Since there's no data on the subject, I'm left guessing based off this limited information. That being the case, I've narrowed it down to one of two blocks.
> Heatkiller (with backplate ofc)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or EK acrylic + nickel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I like the Heatkiller blocks a bit more, but I don't know how I feel about them going into my current build. Keep in mind, these cards would ostensibly be going into this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or maybe I should just bite the bullet, replace my motherboard and case with a LD PC-V7 and... something.


I would say HK no question but the XSPC block is nice also and ties in with your existing block.

Get the XSPC block,the HK backplate and spray it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> EVGA SC
> I know restrictiveness matters when you are adding multiple cards, which is why it's a concern because I'll have three of them. Currently only have a D5 pushing my loop, so I'll probably be upgrading that to two Aquastreams or just going with another D5.


Kewl, I know the FTW 670 4gb uses the 680 pcb and hence blocks. Didn't know the SC was a 670 pcb design







. Personally, I would go with HK; very high quality and great looking blocks. You can also use their bridge system which is very simple and inexpensive.

I would try one D5 first tbh. If you still need more pump power, add another. I never really liked Eheim pumps do to their enormous size. I would recommend the 35x. Its a great pump and should handle your new loop quite well. A bit expensive, but slightly cheaper then the Aquastream.


----------



## Michalius

I had a DDC awhile back, and it's so friggen loud. I hear things from people saying the 35x isn't nearly as bad, but I have my reservations. Will definitely look at doing it if I can be convinced.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I had a DDC awhile back, and it's so friggen loud. I hear things from people saying the 35x isn't nearly as bad, but I have my reservations. Will definitely look at doing it if I can be convinced.


lol, it goes both ways. I couldn't stand the D5 and got rid of it right away for a DDC. To each their as they say







. I'm running full power on my 35x its a little louder than a 355, but once I get it under pwm and running ~40-50% it should be almost dead silent.

I checked the AC Aquastreams; the Ultra version is even more bigger! Specs look nice though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kewl, I know the FTW 670 4gb uses the 680 pcb and hence blocks. Didn't know the SC was a 670 pcb design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Personally, I would go with HK; very high quality and great looking blocks. You can also use their bridge system which is very simple and inexpensive.
> *I would try one D5 first tbh*. If you still need more pump power, add another. I never really liked Eheim pumps do to their enormous size. I would recommend the 35x. Its a great pump and should handle your new loop quite well. A bit expensive, but slightly cheaper then the Aquastream.


Werm is right,i can run 3 480s,3 FC GPU blocks,mobo block,a few 90s and 2 CPU blocks on one D5.


----------



## driftingforlife

I just bought a D5 to replace the DDC in my CPU loop as don't trust it.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lol, it goes both ways. I couldn't stand the D5 and got rid of it right away for a DDC. To each their as they say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm running full power on my 35x its a little louder than a 355, but once I get it under pwm and running ~40-50% it should be almost dead silent.
> I checked the AC Aquastreams; the Ultra version is even more bigger! Specs look nice though.


Alright. I'm going to give it a shot. What's the worst that could happen? I'll be forced to do my most favorite hobby in the world and rebuild my loop. Schucks.

Three Razor's it is.


----------



## RKTGX95

something quite interesting that i have found, this.

i know, i know, CLC... but the pricing is what's interesting. for 80$ you get a dual 120 clc which is quite good when considering that the H100 is at least 20$ more and its actually cheaper than the D14.

(does anyone find this considerable when looking at the price?)

but anyway, D5 in a bay res vs a 35X in a bay res?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I just bought a D5 to replace the DDC in my CPU loop as don't trust it.


I have one of these coming,DDC head pressure with better everything.



One of those puppies in the rad bay would be sweeeeet!


----------



## Michalius

Any 35X res/housing recommendations? I like to keep tubing and parts to a minimum. I'd imagine one of these in a bay res would be a terrible idea due to the noise.


----------



## snapsimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have one of these coming,DDC head pressure with better everything.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of those puppies in the rad bay would be sweeeeet!


Just wondering about the noise though. Been watching the site and it says <50db when the D5 35X's etc are <40db.
Just wish I could hear one in person.


----------



## Michalius

Anyone have experience with these on 35x's?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7226/ex-pmp-62/XSPC_Laing_DDC_Reservoir_Pump_Attachment_-_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-350355_No_Fittings.html?tl=g30c97s152#blank

*edit*

Ah. The special part of the 35x is that the top itself is really good (aside from PWM function). Is this correct?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Alright. I'm going to give it a shot. What's the worst that could happen? I'll be forced to do my most favorite hobby in the world and rebuild my loop. Schucks.
> Three Razor's it is.


I know xspc has a new bridge system for your blocks.

edit: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1042&products_id=34403

Looks you'll need two of them to tie all three blocks together in series or four for parallel. The HK bridge is like $25 and that's all you need to tie three HK blocks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Any 35X res/housing recommendations? I like to keep tubing and parts to a minimum. I'd imagine one of these in a bay res would be a terrible idea due to the noise.


Any ddc top or pump-top will work. Honestly, the stock Swiftech is pretty good. I'm using a koolance DDC top since I can screw on their tube reservoirs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> but anyway, D5 in a bay res vs a 35X in a bay res?


35x is a better pump, it will fit in any ddc bay res. If you're on a budget, the D5 is a good choice as well and just find any bay res for it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Anyone have experience with these on 35x's?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7226/ex-pmp-62/XSPC_Laing_DDC_Reservoir_Pump_Attachment_-_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-350355_No_Fittings.html?tl=g30c97s152#blank
> *edit*
> Ah. The special part of the 35x is that the top itself is really good (aside from PWM function). Is this correct?


Its a pretty good system if you need a top-res combo. There's many ways you can approach it. If you're keen on "future-proofing", keep the stock 35x top and buy a separate reservoir. If you need space, the res you linked or a bay res wiith integrated pump connection will fit the bill.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> 
> build log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1290508/smileytowns-dd-lan-tower-build-log


Phenomenal cosmic power.... In an itty-bitty living space. I love it.


----------



## neopunx

Is the *Aquacomputer aquagrATIx* still in the running for top GPU block for the 7970?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15693/ex-blc-1095/Aquacomputer_AquagrATIx_HD_7950_7970_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_23533_.html?tl=g30c357s1657


Or is there a new contender? Does anyone have this mounted to a XFX DD card? Thanks.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neopunx*
> 
> Is the *Aquacomputer aquagrATIx* still in the running for top GPU block for the 7970?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15693/ex-blc-1095/Aquacomputer_AquagrATIx_HD_7950_7970_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_23533_.html?tl=g30c357s1657
> 
> 
> Or is there a new contender? Does anyone have this mounted to a XFX DD card? Thanks.


Yes the Aqua Computer are very nice. Heat Killer also makes a nice block as well as Koolance.


----------



## Fultonloyn

So quick question..running an i7 920 at 4.01 ghz at 1.218v..

idle temps around 47c..it is pretty cool in my room..im not sure that my room is the problem..doesnt this seem a little warm?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> So quick question..running an i7 920 at 4.01 ghz at 1.218v..
> idle temps around 47c..it is pretty cool in my room..im not sure that my room is the problem..doesnt this seem a little warm?


speedstep disabled?


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> speedstep disabled?


yes, as far as i know...and i am only running 4 cores..no HT


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> yes, as far as i know...and i am only running 4 cores..no HT


hmmm...seems a tad bit high. speedsteps helps lower your idle temps when it kicks in. You are running a rasa and a rs360 just for the cpu? Or you have your gpu on there too? Try turning on speedstep. I left HT on on my old 950.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> So quick question..running an i7 920 at 4.01 ghz at 1.218v..
> idle temps around 47c..it is pretty cool in my room..im not sure that my room is the problem..doesnt this seem a little warm?


Seems pretty warm to me ? I have an i7 920 @ 4.2 on 1.4V (HT on) and my idle temps are 27-30*C with an ambient room temp of 21.5*C.... i only hit ~55-57*C under max load and ambients of 25*C


----------



## ginger_nuts

Thought I would share what I have found whilst pulling my loop apart.

These are BitsPower Silver compression fittings.

After say 3-4months running nothing but distilled water and pure silver.







That brown color looking stuff seems to be more copper then brass which they are meant to be. Plus it does not wipe off.

There is also signs of green corrosion on the outer rim of them.

Should I be worried? I have pulled my loop apart due to major upgrades. Should I flush my CPU block? or pull it completely apart?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Thought I would share what I have found whilst pulling my loop apart.
> These are BitsPower Silver compression fittings.
> After say 3-4months running nothing but distilled water and pure silver.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brown color looking stuff seems to be more copper then brass which they are meant to be. Plus it does not wipe off.
> There is also signs of green corrosion on the outer rim of them.
> Should I be worried? I have pulled my loop apart due to major upgrades. Should I flush my CPU block? or pull it completely apart?


It sucks but there's no harm. That could be bare copper (brass, ???) and the green is patina from the copper. It really shouldn't have an affect on your temps but this is not the first time I've seen BP fitting nickel go bad. Any other fittings with the same symptoms? If not, could be just a bad one.


----------



## ginger_nuts

All four BP fittings like it









The two XSPC Black Chrome barbs at the res. perfectly fine









Cool to know I shouldn't be afraid, but I also just spilled a bit of water on my MB









Looks like I maybe delayed a bit longer, I guess it is lucky I am on leave.


----------



## CRosko42

My BP fittings have all done that as well. Stinks to spend that much money on them and still have to deal with issues like that.

A bit off topic:

I've only posted in this thread a few times, mostly to ask questions, but I read it whenever there are new posts.

I just wanted to give a quick thank you to everyone who posts pictures and helps people out here.









You all give me a ton of great ideas for my future builds/rebuilds and I have learned just about everything I know about watercooling from this thread.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Really nice to get some positive feedback on that first watercooling part that I made myself - Would just love to make more cooling / modding stuff to the community in the future ...


I saw that block - looks great! I would love to have the equipment to do that in my shop!
Well, anyway, if you ever need someone to do some "field testing" for your custom WC components - I always have something that could use a block!









Just sayin.....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Disappointing from BP. Not going to cause any performance issues but still looks bad especially for a company that is so well regarded. I'll be pulling my loop apart soon to do a little tinkering so I will find out what shape all of mine are in....


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies if I have this wrong but that rear fan is not Intaking. It's Exhausting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, it WAS exhausting in that pic - but he just keeps using the same picture each time he makes changes to his fans instead of taking a new pic. Then he draws the arrows to show what has changed. (This has been going on for quite a spell).








See, I do pay attention sometimes...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Well a friend of mine was kind enough to colorize a photo of my system with the gigabyte orange color and this is what I got:
> 
> Kinda thinking twice now lol


Halloween?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Thought I would share what I have found whilst pulling my loop apart.
> 
> These are BitsPower Silver compression fittings.
> 
> After say 3-4months running nothing but distilled water and pure silver.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brown color looking stuff seems to be more copper then brass which they are meant to be. Plus it does not wipe off.
> 
> There is also signs of green corrosion on the outer rim of them.
> 
> Should I be worried? I have pulled my loop apart due to major upgrades. Should I flush my CPU block? or pull it completely apart?


That sucks Ginger. Too bad you're not over here in the States, I'd sell you my EK Black Nickels.









~Ceadder


----------



## ginger_nuts

I have more XSPC barbs to get me out of trouble.

But looking around I like the look of the Koolance range of compression fittings, especially the silver, would contrast well with all my black.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Yeah, it WAS exhausting in that pic - but he just keeps using the same picture each time he makes changes to his fans instead of taking a new pic. Then he draws the arrows to show what has changed. (This has been going on for quite a spell).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See, I do pay attention sometimes...


Exactly







.

Weirdly felt like getting everything I'd been delaying done yesterday and changing the bottom rad's straight fitting was part of that.
I don't recommend anybody to do what I do. Taking out 2 280rads, a 250 reservoir, the cpu block, the pump on your own in a single lift is a terrible idea and your body will remind you of that once your done.
Anyway, I couldn't grab the cpu block so I just let it hang while lifting the rest. Bad idea. It got TIM on my PCI slot.
My pc went in reboot loop and it took me hours of messing about to get it fixed (as usually I still don't know what I did but it worked).

Oh and mounting a CPU block on your own without even removing the mobo is a bad idea too. My temps are now 57/50/59/48. Will have to redo that tonight and get help this time.


----------



## nyk20z3

Are those idle temps?


----------



## steelkevin

Interrsting question. Actually no, they're not. They're Prime / load temps but I can see how the temp differences between the cores would make you think that


----------



## sunset1

@ginger i wonder if a product like c.l.r. used to remove calcium deposits rust stains on concrete, and other stuff would work on your rig. You can clean your coffee pot with it.
any comments from the group? Obviously rinse well afterwards.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @ginger i wonder if a product like c.l.r. used to remove calcium deposits rust stains on concrete, and other stuff would work on your rig. You can clean your coffee pot with it.
> any comments from the group? Obviously rinse well afterwards.


I'm not sure but I don't believe that dipping fittings that have exposed copper/brass in CLR is going to change anything that re-plating wouldn't do better or re-coat them in Nickel plating.









~Ceadder


----------



## sunset1

:> thats a given. I was thinking simple. But i have no idea if it would help at all.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> :> thats a given. I was thinking simple. But i have no idea if it would help at all.


Honestly I think thats genius. I would do it myself But I dont have any fittings. But very good idea. imo.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Weirdly felt like getting everything I'd been delaying done yesterday and changing the bottom rad's straight fitting was part of that.
> I don't recommend anybody to do what I do. Taking out 2 280rads, a 250 reservoir, the cpu block, the pump on your own in a single lift is a terrible idea and your body will remind you of that once your done.
> Anyway, I couldn't grab the cpu block so I just let it hang while lifting the rest. Bad idea. It got TIM on my PCI slot.
> My pc went in reboot loop and it took me hours of messing about to get it fixed (as usually I still don't know what I did but it worked).
> Oh and mounting a CPU block on your own without even removing the mobo is a bad idea too. My temps are now 57/50/59/48. Will have to redo that tonight and get help this time.


Sounds like you need some drain lines. Your kidding about taking out the mobo to mount the block, right?







If you need some way to hold the back plate in place I have a neat little trick. Take a nice clean block of wood (like the end of a kiln dried 2x4) and using painters tape, strap it to the backplate while wrapping the tape several times across the side of the case. The painters tape won't harm the finish of any painted parts, and you can thread the screws in without the back plate falling out. I don't much care for the sticky-tape solutions as they are a pain to remove the residue.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Crappy picture, but my build Arctic Rain needed to be disassembled and rebuilt


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Sounds like you need some drain lines. Your kidding about taking out the mobo to mount the block, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need some way to hold the back plate in place I have a neat little trick. Take a nice clean block of wood (like the end of a kiln dried 2x4) and using painters tape, strap it to the backplate while wrapping the tape several times across the side of the case. The painters tape won't harm the finish of any painted parts, and you can thread the screws in without the back plate falling out. I don't much care for the sticky-tape solutions as they are a pain to remove the residue.


A drain line would've meant extra cost and I was on a really tight budget. I could always juste drill throught the vottom of my case and make the hole larger than one of the rad's "plugs/lids". And then simply unscrew it and let the loop empty itself in a jug placed underneath. But this is far from what it'll be in a year so I don't want to go through the hustle.

About the CPU block, I was on a stock cooler before so that was my first try at mounting anything else. I guess that with time it'll get easier and more obvious bt right now I suck at it







. I'll eventually figure it out though







.


----------



## tiborrr12

Just assembled it today, looks even better than on my drawings, I'm happy how it came out. It is now confirmed and off to mass production!









The EK-FB ASUS M5E prototype:


----------



## steelkevin

Does anybody have a good CPU Block mounting guide/tutorial (video or not) ?

I've got an EK Supreme HF CU Full Copper on a 1156 socket board btw.
I could just keep guessing and doing it wrong or listen to a good guide and get it right. I figured the second option was the way to go.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Does anybody have a good CPU Block mounting guide/tutorial (video or not) ?
> I've got an EK Supreme HF CU Full Copper on a 1156 socket board btw.
> I could just keep guessing and doing it wrong or listen to a good guide and get it right. I figured the second option was the way to go.


You could try EK directions if that Helps
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990204.pdf


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You could try EK directions if that Helps
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990204.pdf


Thanks, actually *this would be the right one* since I've got exactly that block but for some reason I've got an old mounting system that looks nothing like the one on that page (which is pretty messed up since that's the black I have).
With that (new) system I wouldn't see any possible way things could go wrong but I've just got long M4 screws, metal springs and 4 large round nuts that go on top of those springs.
Edit: and obviously I've got the backplates, jet plates and block too.

Maybe I should contact EK and see if I can get the proper mounting system sent to me at no extra cost (it's their mistake if I recieved the wrong screws, and if they aren't the wrong screws then they should put the right ones on that .pdf so it can actually be of any use). Thing is I don't have the "receipt" anymore and they'd probably ask for that (most RMA services do, as if a photo with a message written on paper didn't prove you own the product).


----------



## JohnnyEars

Can somebody recommend me some good TIM please, I'm not fussed about cost, just would like to try the best out there (well, second best - Indigo seems a bit pricey lol)


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

mx-4 is pretty solid. Easy to spread and a great performer


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Can somebody recommend me some good TIM please, I'm not fussed about cost, just would like to try the best out there (well, second best - Indigo seems a bit pricey lol)


I like PK-1 and i also use AS5.. There are so many choices and the top performers are real close to each other.. there is MX -4 as well


----------



## hammerforged

Not to get this started but....



A little Google search never hurts









http://skinneelabs.com/2011-thermal-paste-review-comparison/


----------



## JohnnyEars

Thanks guys, I know all about google search, I was just after the opinions from you knowledgeable chaps on here









I just ordered the Phobya HeGrease


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Thanks guys, I know all about google search, I was just after the opinions from you knowledgeable chaps on here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered the Phobya HeGrease


Solid choice. Can't go wrong there.


----------



## wermad

I've always used Ceramique. Its a solid performer and a syringe with 25g is only $10. Comes in handy when you have to use tim for unorthodox applications







. Once I run out, I'll be switching to something better


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I think Ceramique is what I'm using right now. Needed TIM in a pinch and Radio Shack had that and AS-5. Pretty good stuff so far as I can tell...


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Its weird because my 670 ftw evga back plates have a thermal pad under the E letter but yours does not!

The 670 ftw and 680 use the same pcb so i find that weird unless you removed it ?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That Hydro Copper 680 would be sweet if not for locked voltage... :/


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That Hydro Copper 680 would be sweet if not for locked voltage... :/




This one is totally worth it though right? I mean its only $800...

Oh wait Nvidia made them remove Evbot....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've always used Ceramique. Its a solid performer and a syringe with 25g is only $10. Comes in handy when you have to use tim for unorthodox applications
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Once I run out, I'll be switching to something better


MX2 FTW,GPUs...CPUs....and salad dressing.

You can do all this with MX2.

And it attracts girls.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And it attracts girls.


or so we like to tell ourselves.... lol


----------



## Tarnix

Mhm... Salad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> or so we like to tell ourselves.... lol


When im full overclocking hat wearing mode,i camo myself with it and get my mood music on...


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And it attracts girls.


Big reservoirs and MX2 thermal interface material, the new muscle car and 6 pack abs.


----------



## wermad

lol

btw: upgrade time! Again





















. Some Monstas on the way


----------



## Retrolock

Updates to my submission last year, this time i've a couple of addtions:

6 monsoon white fittings, 6 90deg bitspower black fittings, a couple of EK ones, watercool heatkiller gpu block, 3 phobya fans, ek multires 120, mcp 655 with bitspower top




too few pics lol the top of the carbide is being modded and I have some sleeving to be done


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Big reservoirs and MX2 thermal interface material, the new muscle car and 6 pack abs.


lol.... don't forget that number of threads are equivalent to engine displacement/horsepower (or something like that) haha







...


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrolock*
> 
> Updates to my submission last year, this time i've a couple of addtions:
> 6 monsoon white fittings, 6 90deg bitspower black fittings, a couple of EK ones, watercool heatkiller gpu block, 3 phobya fans, ek multires 120, mcp 655 with bitspower top
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> too few pics lol the top of the carbide is being modded and I have some sleeving to be done


Where did you get your Heatkiller block from? My first block did NOT have that type of fitting block attached (got it from sidewindercomputer) and my second block (from performance-pcs) looks like yours.

Notice the difference from the top block vs the bottom in my pic below... ?? what gives? Spacing wasn't even the same for fittings....


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Where did you get your Heatkiller block from? My first block did NOT have that type of fitting block attached (got it from sidewindercomputer) and my second block (from performance-pcs) looks like yours.
> Notice the difference from the top block vs the bottom in my pic below... ?? what gives? Spacing wasn't even the same for fittings....


Yeah, I got mine from sidewinder... your top block looks like an unfinished prototype or something, can you ask for a replacement for that?


----------



## hammerforged

@*kpforce1*

Sounds like you might be able to get in replaced. Check out this thread:

http://watercool.de/wbb/board1-watercool-support/4289-2-same-heatkiller-gtx-680-hole-edition-waterblocks-with-different-black-acetal-inlet-outlet-port/

Quote:


> Normely, we do not replace the connection block for free. But in your special case (purchasing two or more blocks with different connetion blocks) we will do it.
> Please send me an email with your full adress to [email protected] I will send you one of the new connection blocks (as you can find on your last picture) as replacement. I send it by letter. This will need 5-7 working days.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> @*kpforce1*
> Sounds like you might be able to get in replaced. Check out this thread:
> http://watercool.de/wbb/board1-watercool-support/4289-2-same-heatkiller-gtx-680-hole-edition-waterblocks-with-different-black-acetal-inlet-outlet-port/


Nice to know this, +1. I'm planning a gpu upgrade down the road and HK as at the top of my block list. This shouldn't make a difference with their bridge systems since that works by removing the acetal piece.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> @*kpforce1*
> Sounds like you might be able to get in replaced. Check out this thread:
> http://watercool.de/wbb/board1-watercool-support/4289-2-same-heatkiller-gtx-680-hole-edition-waterblocks-with-different-black-acetal-inlet-outlet-port/


+rep for the link







I appreciate it


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lol
> 
> btw: upgrade time! Again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Some Monstas on the way


Oh baby. You may tempt me into ordering some myself


----------



## jagz

Moved my loop from the Switch to the Caselabs SM8, unfortunately untill I get a USB 3.0 to 2.0 adapter, can't post pics







(asrock extreme3 z68, no usb 3.0 header)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh baby. You may tempt me into ordering some myself


Ordered two 360s and bought a 240 from an ocn member







. Ppcs.com still hasn't shipped it so it'll be a while before I have pics








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Moved my loop from the Switch to the Caselabs SM8, unfortunately untill I get a USB 3.0 to 2.0 adapter, can't post pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (asrock extreme3 z68, no usb 3.0 header)


doesn't your camera or phone have a regular usb connector on the cable?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> doesn't your camera or phone have a regular usb connector on the cable?


Yea but the CL's usb isn't connected to the board.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrolock*
> 
> your top block looks like an unfinished prototype or something, can you ask for a replacement for that?


I dunno about him, but I'd never hand out a prototype for a final version myself. I'm too much of a scientific-minded/bleeding edge addict/[insert appropriate quality here] person








"OMG LOOK IT'S EXPERIMENTAL!"


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Yea but the CL's usb isn't connected to the board.


back of the mb?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh baby. You may tempt me into ordering some myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered two 360s and bought a 240 from an ocn member
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ppcs.com still hasn't shipped it so it'll be a while before I have pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Moved my loop from the Switch to the Caselabs SM8, unfortunately untill I get a USB 3.0 to 2.0 adapter, can't post pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (asrock extreme3 z68, no usb 3.0 header)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> doesn't your camera or phone have a regular usb connector on the cable?
Click to expand...

Should have ordered from Aquatuning


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I dunno about him, but I'd never hand out a prototype for a final version myself. I'm too much of a scientific-minded/bleeding edge addict/[insert appropriate quality here] person
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "OMG LOOK IT'S EXPERIMENTAL!"


I'd luuuurv to be a guinea pig, test lab rat, etc as long as its free and its for watercooling and it wont hurt my toes if the copper blocks separate


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> back of the mb?


Kind of forgot about that....

/embarassedfacehere


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Should have ordered from Aquatuning


Shipping was slightly cheaper and no import fees







. I'm going to send them an email about it. They're usually pretty quick about getting stuff out. I may have fudged up and delayed it since I wasn't too sure about going with two 360s and one 240 or one 360 with a 480








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Kind of forgot about that....
> /embarassedfacehere


hehe, happens to the best of us. I just really want to see your new and awesome case


----------



## jagz

So much clearance:



Top view:



My setup:



Will make more changes:



Only beef, no covered cable management grommets. I need to filter that bottom spot & get some single molex to sata power extensions so you don't see the train hanging there. Also need to pull the 8 pin's through a different hole so they look better (GPU's 8 pins)

I can change anything, anytime.. the real beauty of this case. Went with 480 placements on top and bottom for future possibilities. Shouldn't have on the bottom though, Phobya G-Changer 240 doesn't line up with the front because of the flex bay covers.

I'm sure others will hit a home run with their SM8 setup's, mine's so-so for sure, but can always be changed.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Should have ordered from Aquatuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shipping was slightly cheaper and no import fees
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm going to send them an email about it. They're usually pretty quick about getting stuff out. I may have fudged up and delayed it since I wasn't too sure about going with two 360s and one 240 or one 360 with a 480
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Kind of forgot about that....
> /embarassedfacehere
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> hehe, happens to the best of us. I just really want to see your new and awesome case
Click to expand...

Really? I almost always have cheaper shipping when using Aquatuning. Of course you have to spend over a $75 or $100 to get the cheap shipping









Also I got a new graphics card already... I just want to have a rig like you







*hint*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Really? I almost always have cheaper shipping when using Aquatuning. *Of course you have to spend over a $75 or $100 to get the cheap shipping*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I got a new graphics card already... I just want to have a rig like you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *hint*


You do type ilovebittech in the coupon bit right?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Just assembled it today, looks even better than on my drawings, I'm happy how it came out. It is now confirmed and off to mass production!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The EK-FB ASUS M5E prototype:


I have to say that while I love my FC block that I'm a bit disappointed in how it mounts to my board. You can only use 8 screws to mount the board to the Mainboard tray because there is no access to the center screw and while I know it's probably not hurting anything, the thought hangs around like a pesky gnat that won't take the hint. Not a fan of all in one blocks for this reason. If I could've purchased a pair of blocks rather than my block that I have now I would have jumped on that in a heartbeat.

Proof of Life pic...



JiC you don't know this yet Tiborrr, I am OCD and an anal retentive bastage. Just the knowledge of a missing screw on my motherboard is enough to keep my brain to make an issue of it...

Oh and what's with the Silver finish on the examination plate when you build a block for a Red and Black themed board? What you guys can't make a red Plexi Cover for these?







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> mx-4 is pretty solid. Easy to spread and a great performer


Sadly there is yet to be any data comparing MX4 with the competitors but MX4 is pretty good. My bro was running it on his 1050T and got pretty similar results with a Hyper 212+ as I get with my 1100T and a custom loop. Like for like comparison I would say it's within 1-2c since both our systems run at Full Load 24/7.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've always used Ceramique. Its a solid performer and a syringe with 25g is only $10. Comes in handy when you have to use tim for unorthodox applications
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Once I run out, I'll be switching to something better


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I think Ceramique is what I'm using right now. Needed TIM in a pinch and Radio Shack had that and AS-5. Pretty good stuff so far as I can tell...


Guys you do know that I have the most consistent stuff in the Market Place? Yeah I know you have left over Ceramique on hand but I do too. I've got a 20oz tube of that stuff laying around. The only thing it's good for is afficing the plastic washers to the back plates on blocks anymore imho. That's all I use it for.

You may as well buy a jar of Kraft's Jet -Puffed Marshmallow spread and use that if you're going to use something white and just as sticky. Probably performs about the same imho.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> or so we like to tell ourselves.... lol
> 
> 
> 
> When im full overclocking hat wearing mode,i camo myself with it and get my mood music on...
Click to expand...

I do that in my mind while I'm keeping a sharp eye peeled for BSoD to pop out of a spider hole and take us out.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And it attracts girls.
> 
> 
> 
> Big reservoirs and MX2 thermal interface material, the new muscle car and 6 pack abs.
Click to expand...

See above...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Retrolock*
> 
> your top block looks like an unfinished prototype or something, can you ask for a replacement for that?
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno about him, but I'd never hand out a prototype for a final version myself. I'm too much of a scientific-minded/bleeding edge addict/[insert appropriate quality here] person
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "OMG LOOK IT'S EXPERIMENTAL!"
Click to expand...

Agreed. Sell me the final product once you have the bugs worked out. Until then keep the prototype and vet it.

~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

No? What does that do...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No? What does that do...


Nothing. It says coupon invalid.









I thought I might have stumbled onto the holy grail of coupons.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Me too D:


----------



## wermad

Aqutunning.us: total for two Monsta 360s: $262.11 w/ 2 day shipping.

ppcs.com: $242.91 w/ Fedex 4-day ground.

Saved $20 and put that towards the Monsta 240 I bought from another member









I use ceramique for the water block standoffs on the 590 blocks


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm using Ceramique on my folding rig with a 2600K and an H80 and my temps have been fine. Why you guys hatin?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm using Ceramique on my folding rig with a 2600K and an H80 and my temps have been fine. Why you guys hatin?


I guess because its older and its no longer on the top. I don't really mind. I have a lot left and I have been pleased with my temps so far. Can't complain









One thing i don't like as far as using unorthodox tim application: to hold vram and vrm pad on the chips themselves, wth


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I just got the stuff because it was what they had at Radio Shack at 9pm. That said, I'm totally fine with its performance as it does everything I need a TIM to do...


----------



## derickwm

Meh I just use whatever is laying around


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, I just got the stuff because it was what they had at Radio Shack at 9pm. That said, *I'm totally fine with its performance* as it does everything I need a TIM to do...


IIRC, this is a banned phrase in the Water Cooling Club.


----------



## derickwm

I have 8 Panaflo FBA12G12Us coming in as well, hopefully by Friday. Putting my toes in the 38mm thick pond


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Meh I just use whatever is laying around


That's my attitude anymore. Not gonna stress too much about 2-3C...


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MX2 FTW,GPUs...CPUs....and salad dressing.
> You can do all this with MX2.
> And it attracts girls.


You old smooth talker







Specialtech was my next visit.. MX-2, and because it was sooo cheap, I also ordered a 80mm x 200mm res tube and top for my Koolance mk2 d5 pump top









..and a Koolance CPU-370, Mayhems pastel blue and loads of fittings - including a Bitspower shiny ball valve (my first Bitspower purchase woohoo)

I've also got my eye on a UT60 360mm, a monsta 240 and a box of AP-15's - next time maybe..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, I just got the stuff because it was what they had at Radio Shack at 9pm. That said, *I'm totally fine with its performance* as it does everything I need a TIM to do...
> 
> 
> 
> *IIRC, this is a banned phrase in the Water Cooling Club.*
Click to expand...

TRUTH!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Meh I just use whatever is laying around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's my attitude anymore. Not gonna stress too much about 2-3C...
Click to expand...

No offense, I understand the thought process to use whatever is handy or laying around but if you're water cooling you're not doing it because it was whatever was laying around... well okay you COULD do so if you've been water cooling since the concept first took hold of the enthusiast community but I don't believe there are too many people running loops that they put together using components they cobbled together from parts purchased at their hardware store.









The saying *"Go BIG or go home"* was coined for a reason and I think that whoever coined it had OCN Water Coolers in mind when they said it.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> You old smooth talker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specialtech was my next visit.. MX-2, and because it was sooo cheap, I also ordered a 80mm x 200mm res tube and top for my Koolance mk2 d5 pump top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..and a Koolance CPU-370, Mayhems pastel blue and loads of fittings - including a Bitspower shiny ball valve (my first Bitspower purchase woohoo)
> I've also got my eye on a UT60 360mm, a monsta 240 and a box of AP-15's - next time maybe..


Join the forum.

Its a fun place to go..


----------



## derickwm

I just am too impatient to wait for good TIM to come in


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> TRUTH!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense, I understand the thought process to use whatever is handy or laying around but if you're water cooling you're not doing it because it was whatever was laying around... well okay you COULD do so if you've been water cooling since the concept first took hold of the enthusiast community but I don't believe there are too many people running loops that they put together using components they cobbled together from parts purchased at their hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saying *"Go BIG or go home"* was coined for a reason and I think that whoever coined it had OCN Water Coolers in mind when they said it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


TIM is TIM is TIM.

2c separates them all and that can be explained by shifting ambients and non lab testing,i think its a money scam most of the time......except that phase TIM that IC sell.

That stuff is expensive AND scary to reflow.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> TRUTH!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense, I understand the thought process to use whatever is handy or laying around but if you're water cooling you're not doing it because it was whatever was laying around... well okay you COULD do so if you've been water cooling since the concept first took hold of the enthusiast community but I don't believe there are too many people running loops that they put together using components they cobbled together from parts purchased at their hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saying *"Go BIG or go home"* was coined for a reason and I think that whoever coined it had OCN Water Coolers in mind when they said it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


I understand what you are saying and it would be valid if Ceramique was a terribad TIM but its not. It is performing very well with my H80/2600K, keeping temps under 70C at 4.5GHz under 25/7 folding load. That's with the H80 at low fan speed...


----------



## mandrix

Pedestal full of UT60's & AP15's. Was going to go with Monsta's but would have been a little tight.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Pedestal full of UT60's & AP15's. Was going to go with Monsta's but would have been a little tight.


Would like to see pics of your STH in white


----------



## jokrik

Made some changes on my loop since the new soundcard clash with bottom tube, replace the ek pump 4.0 with mcp355 and ek top, very happy with the noise level!
add nzxt fan controller for lowering the noise
also add some draining line and bits flow indicator, flow indicator cause me some leaking during bleeding









Spoiler: Photo 1

















Spoiler: Photo 2

















Spoiler: Photo 3














lose a couple of degrees but its silent now


----------



## GoodInk

Damn guys slow down, it only took me a month to catch back up. I loved all the Scout love about 50+ pages back.

I'm thinking about a pump upgrade and was wanting to know if this setup can be mounted horizontally with the top being the return?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15565/ex-pmp-189/Koolance_G14_Threaded_Acetal_COV-RP450_Pump_Base_w_Pump_Reservoir_Installed.html?tl=c107s152b4



Did this not get anyone's attention?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Just came across this picture of one of my first attempts of making Aurora liquid in a couple of prototype Coolermaster pump/bay res i made quite some time ago.
> 
> Pretty...........even Mayhems are using the pictures on their site


I know they are planning on some AIO type solutions but this looks more like full on WC'ing to me.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Damn guys slow down, it only took me a month to catch back up. I loved all the Scout love about 50+ pages back.
> I'm thinking about a pump upgrade and was wanting to know if this setup can be mounted horizontally with the top being the return?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15565/ex-pmp-189/Koolance_G14_Threaded_Acetal_COV-RP450_Pump_Base_w_Pump_Reservoir_Installed.html?tl=c107s152b4
> .


I'm using the ddc version. Its pretty nifty since I can screw on different 60mm tube sizes. I'm have a couple of 80mm long tubes for my current res.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Thanks, actually *this would be the right one* since I've got exactly that block but for some reason I've got an old mounting system that looks nothing like the one on that page (which is pretty messed up since that's the black I have).
> With that (new) system I wouldn't see any possible way things could go wrong but I've just got long M4 screws, metal springs and 4 large round nuts that go on top of those springs.
> Edit: and obviously I've got the backplates, jet plates and block too.
> Maybe I should contact EK and see if I can get the proper mounting system sent to me at no extra cost (it's their mistake if I recieved the wrong screws, and if they aren't the wrong screws then they should put the right ones on that .pdf so it can actually be of any use). Thing is I don't have the "receipt" anymore and they'd probably ask for that (most RMA services do, as if a photo with a message written on paper didn't prove you own the product).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Does anybody have a good CPU Block mounting guide/tutorial (video or not) ?
> I've got an EK Supreme HF CU Full Copper on a 1156 socket board btw.
> I could just keep guessing and doing it wrong or listen to a good guide and get it right. I figured the second option was the way to go.


I still haven't found what I was looking for so I'll just put this back here in case of you can help







.

Those quotes aren't in the right order but I'm on my phone and there's not really much I can do about it right now, sorry for that.


----------



## Eylev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> 
> 
> new mobo and 240 rad


Hi Egameman.. Ur WC Setup looks interesting.. Is your coolant level remain the same (Never Drop) due to the pressurize in the reservoir and is your pump facing downwards?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eylev*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> 
> 
> new mobo and 240 rad
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Egameman.. Ur WC Setup looks interesting.. Is your coolant level remain the same (Never Drop) due to the pressurize in the reservoir and is your pump facing downwards?
Click to expand...

His pump is below the Res, just where it needs to be.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Damn guys slow down, it only took me a month to catch back up. I loved all the Scout love about 50+ pages back.
> I'm thinking about a pump upgrade and was *wanting to know if this setup can be mounted horizontally* with the top being the return?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15565/ex-pmp-189/Koolance_G14_Threaded_Acetal_COV-RP450_Pump_Base_w_Pump_Reservoir_Installed.html?tl=c107s152b4
> 
> Did this not get anyone's attention?


Yes it can. Make sure you get the revision2 version as the rev 1 leaks like a stuck pig....if the pump doesnt actually fall out first


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Damn guys slow down, it only took me a month to catch back up. I loved all the Scout love about 50+ pages back.
> I'm thinking about a pump upgrade and was *wanting to know if this setup can be mounted horizontally* with the top being the return?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15565/ex-pmp-189/Koolance_G14_Threaded_Acetal_COV-RP450_Pump_Base_w_Pump_Reservoir_Installed.html?tl=c107s152b4
> 
> Did this not get anyone's attention?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it can. Make sure you get the revision2 version as the rev 1 leaks like a stuck pig....if the pump doesnt actually fall out first
Click to expand...

Thanks, this makes me a happy man







+Rep


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Thanks, this makes me a happy man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep


The mounts are designed for 120 fan mount use,you can run the pump on the backside of a top rad using the fan mounts...
I was going to do this but i dont have the room....


----------



## JohnnyEars

I've just ordered the 200mm version of that res tube - pics soon hopefully









...and the mounts are 120mm or 140mm depending which wat round you fit the brackets..


----------



## driftingforlife

My order has shipped







Slower than normal for aquatuning.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## ginger_nuts

I need some serious help, I think I may have just totaled my CM690 II Advanced.

Should never be modding and drinking with children around, especially when the wife said "You will be OK, I will look after the children"

Long story short, what is a good short list of cases for water cooling (top 3-4 cases ~ $250 or less)

Needs to be able to hold a 180mm deep PSU, a EX240 and RX240 rad., have enough room for a PMP-500 and a 100mm long tube res.

I will be cooling my CPU and both GPU, with universal EK blocks and bridge.

After the other day, this is turning out to be a very expensive time off.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Would like to see pics of your STH in white


wermad, it's a SM8 build. Build log link in sig.


----------



## CramComplex

Hi Guys! Here's my current setup, unfortunately I'm still struggling with the entire case mod so I just built my loop first as most of the case mods are done and it's all down to the removable stuff and cable sleeving.

This is what it looked like temporarily until my XSPC Compressions came in from DazMode.

OLD CONFIG ~~~~



NEW CONFIG!~~~











I need 2 90* adapters for the FC7850 as the 45* adapters were touching the case door...will be changing the fittings once I get the funds...So far the components are the following:

XSPC EX120 / RS240 / RX120 / RASA CPU Block / 5/8" ~ 7/16" Compression Fittings & Orange Tubing / D5 Bay/Res Pump Top

DazMode D5 Vario

EK-FC 7850

Temps are the following with ambient temp @ 21*C:

2500K @ 4.5Ghz 1.31v - Load: 43*C (I know it's pretty high but my chip BSODs if I lower the VCORE more.)

PowerColor 7850 2GB @ Stock - Load: 31*C


----------



## Fonne

Have any tried the dye from Primochill that frozen just got ?

*PrimoChill Intensifier™ Concentrated Opaque Series Dye Bomber*

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17346/ex-liq-230/PrimoChill_Intensifier_Concentrated_Opaque_Series_Dye_Bomber_-_15mL_-_UV_Blue_Razzy_Sicle_DYEBT-BRZ.html


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex*
> 
> Hi Guys! Here's my current setup, unfortunately I'm still struggling with the entire case mod so I just built my loop first as most of the case mods are done and it's all down to the removable stuff and cable sleeving.
> 
> This is what it looked like temporarily until my XSPC Compressions came in from DazMode.
> 
> OLD CONFIG ~~~~
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080786/
> 
> 
> 
> NEW CONFIG!~~~
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080787/
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080788/][/URL]
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080789/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080790/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080791/
> 
> 
> 
> I need 2 90* adapters for the FC7850 as the 45* adapters were touching the case door...will be changing the fittings once I get the funds...So far the components are the following:
> XSPC EX120 / RS240 / RX120 / RASA CPU Block / 5/8" ~ 7/16" Compression Fittings & Orange Tubing / D5 Bay/Res Pump Top
> DazMode D5 Vario
> EK-FC 7850
> 
> Temps are the following with ambient temp @ 21*C:
> 2500K @ 4.5Ghz 1.31v - Load: 43*C (I know it's pretty high but my chip BSODs if I lower the VCORE more.)
> PowerColor 7850 2GB @ Stock - Load: 31*C


Nice rig.


----------



## mandrix

Guys, I just ordered my second 7950, and will be getting another EK Acetyl block and backplate to match my current single 7950 setup.
I have never set up a water cooled crossfire, and could use some tips/options for connecting the cards via bridge/tubes whatever. The loop consists of a MCP35x, 2xUT60 480 rads, Raystorm cpu block, and an Aquaero 5 with water block. This will be my first go with the MCP35x so I don't have a clear idea from experience how well it will function in this loop.
The build itself is using all white tubing, no dyes, so clear tubes aren't going to show anything special.
Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H board, 3 slot spacing.

Would this loop warrant a parallel bridge, or serial connection good enough? Recommendations for bridges/tubes ? Links helpful.









EDIT: I got it.


----------



## steelkevin

Wow, i5s run cool Oo. 43° with only a 280 and 2 120s with a gpu in the loop ? Is that how all i5s run (at very low temps) ?

My i7-860 @stock runs at 54° (load) with two 280 rads and only the cpu in the loop.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Nice rig.


Thanks!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Thanks, this makes me a happy man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep
> 
> 
> 
> The mounts are designed for 120 fan mount use,you can run the pump on the backside of a top rad using the fan mounts...
> I was going to do this but i dont have the room....
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I need some serious help, I think I may have just totaled my CM690 II Advanced.
> 
> Should never be modding and drinking with children around, especially when the wife said "You will be OK, I will look after the children"
> 
> Long story short, what is a good short list of cases for water cooling (top 3-4 cases ~ $250 or less)
> 
> Needs to be able to hold a 180mm deep PSU, a EX240 and RX240 rad., have enough room for a PMP-500 and a 100mm long tube res.
> 
> I will be cooling my CPU and both GPU, with universal EK blocks and bridge.
> 
> After the other day, this is turning out to be a very expensive time off.


CM Storm Trooper/Stryker fits that bill.


----------



## _REAPER_

Just got in the Aquacomputer Aqualis and it is a freakin huge.. good lord I will get some pictures posted this evening when I get some time to do so but dmn I am going to have to cut out all the drive bays in my pc to hold this thing up. LOL oh well the fun of watercooling will begin when I get home from this deployment.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I think that's gonna be very heavy as I have the first revision and it's quite heavy already. I didn't know that the new revision still uses the same stainless steel plate but only with the new acrylic style top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I need some serious help, I think I may have just totaled my CM690 II Advanced.
> Should never be modding and drinking with children around, especially when the wife said "You will be OK, I will look after the children"
> Long story short, what is a good short list of cases for water cooling (top 3-4 cases ~ $250 or less)
> Needs to be able to hold a 180mm deep PSU, a EX240 and RX240 rad., have enough room for a PMP-500 and a 100mm long tube res.
> I will be cooling my CPU and both GPU, with universal EK blocks and bridge.
> After the other day, this is turning out to be a very expensive time off.


I hope your situation will improve. Sorry to hear that.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex*
> 
> Hi Guys! Here's my current setup, unfortunately I'm still struggling with the entire case mod so I just built my loop first as most of the case mods are done and it's all down to the removable stuff and cable sleeving.
> 
> This is what it looked like temporarily until my XSPC Compressions came in from DazMode.
> 
> OLD CONFIG ~~~~
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080786/
> 
> NEW CONFIG!~~~
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080787/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080788/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080789/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080790/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080791/
> 
> 
> I need 2 90* adapters for the FC7850 as the 45* adapters were touching the case door...will be changing the fittings once I get the funds...So far the components are the following:
> XSPC EX120 / RS240 / RX120 / RASA CPU Block / 5/8" ~ 7/16" Compression Fittings & Orange Tubing / D5 Bay/Res Pump Top
> DazMode D5 Vario
> EK-FC 7850
> 
> Temps are the following with ambient temp @ 21*C:
> 2500K @ 4.5Ghz 1.31v - Load: 43*C (I know it's pretty high but my chip BSODs if I lower the VCORE more.)
> PowerColor 7850 2GB @ Stock - Load: 31*C


Very nice rig. It would look even better if those radiators matched eachother and the tubing! OR is it the lighting?


----------



## nleksan

It looks like the rad colors match, but the lighting is stronger on the left causing it to look lighter in the photo. At least that's what I would assume looking at the lighting pattern.

Also, Ginger, sorry for your loss :'(
The Switch 810 is always a great choice







However, if possible, you may want to wait on the new Phantom to ddecide, as it is shaping up to be great.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex*
> 
> Hi Guys! Here's my current setup, unfortunately I'm still struggling with the entire case mod so I just built my loop first as most of the case mods are done and it's all down to the removable stuff and cable sleeving.
> 
> NEW CONFIG!~~~
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080787/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080788/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080789/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080790/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1080791/


I sure like the Orange Rads...







Nice Job


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> CM Storm Trooper/Stryker fits that bill.


+1 to this... and its only $140 i think
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> Long story short, what is a good short list of cases for water cooling (top 3-4 cases ~ $250 or less)
> 
> Needs to be able to hold a 180mm deep PSU, a EX240 and RX240 rad., have enough room for a PMP-500 and a 100mm long tube res.


I just looked at the dimensions of you radiators. They will work the in Storm Trooper/Stryker. If you want to see pics of radiator locations you can check my Storm Trooper album out. I have radiators mounted pretty much where ever you can "fit" them







.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Just assembled it today, looks even better than on my drawings, I'm happy how it came out. It is now confirmed and off to mass production!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The EK-FB ASUS M5E prototype:


Nice! Love it!


----------



## RKTGX95

btw, anyone recommending me to but the Formula block? or just save the 100$ and use the existing one?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> btw, anyone recommending me to but the Formula block? or just save the 100$ and use the existing one?


More for looks tbh. I do recall my old CHIVF vrm was hot and the block helped to lower the temps. Eventually, Asus fixed the issue. If you're having problems, just rma it. Mb blocks are more for show than go







. Yet, this is ocn, so go for it


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> btw, anyone recommending me to but the Formula block? or just save the 100$ and use the existing one?


You're going to spend that 100 sooner or later... be it this or something else..







Thats a horrible question to ask a bunch of Water cooling addicts..


----------



## jagz

My friend sent me this pic:










What is that?

It's Distilled water, kill coil, bmav pump, xspc dual bay res, ex360, raystorm, monsoon fittings. That's it, that's the loop. What is this?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> My friend sent me this pic:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is that?
> It's Distilled water, kill coil, bmav pump, xspc dual bay res, ex360, raystorm, monsoon fittings. That's it, that's the loop. What is this?


What tubing is he using?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> More for looks tbh. I do recall my old CHIVF vrm was hot and the block helped to lower the temps. Eventually, Asus fixed the issue. If you're having problems, just rma it. Mb blocks are more for show than go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Yet, this is ocn, so go for it


there is already a block on the motherboard, just not G1/4 (3/8 barbs, it only bothers me because cant use angles properly) and not for the chipset. (which is no X79 heat levels chipset...)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You're going to spend that 100 sooner or later... be it this or something else..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a horrible question to ask a bunch of Water cooling addicts..


but the real question is how? on fittings? blocks? rads? Phobya gummy bears? I NEED TO KNOW!!! (







)
but IMO the one already on the board looks better. (and i like the *C*ircle *Sq*uare)


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> What tubing is he using?


White primochill, 7/16". Same as me, sure I get some plasicizer but never anything like that green crap?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> White primochill, 7/16". Same as me, sure I get some plasicizer but never anything like that green crap?


Flux from the rad?? mixed with Plasticiser?? Hard to see from the Pic.. Its definitely Extreme..


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> My friend sent me this pic:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is that?
> It's Distilled water, kill coil, bmav pump, xspc dual bay res, ex360, raystorm, monsoon fittings. That's it, that's the loop. What is this?


Do you know for certain he uses distilled water? Usually you see that when regular water comes into contact with copper..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> IMO the one already on the board looks better. (and i like the *C*ircle *Sq*uare)


There you go then.. If your happy with it ..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thats the last you will see of that H100.

XSPC and Specialtech are sponsoring a nice new loop for it.
More chrome plated copper goodness coming soon!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> There you go then.. If your happy with it ..


i can't be truly happy till i'd get to WC







(and i heard those gummy bears are delicious







)
also, any good general places to mount a 35X ? (i.e. most common)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> wermad, it's a SM8 build. Build log link in sig.










for some reason I typed sth, lol, sorry, I do recall you said sm8








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I sure like the Orange Rads...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice Job


You sure do







, that is a nice setup. Gives a good idea on how it will turn out.


----------



## evilnumber18

dule 200mm rad phobya extream 400





yep thoes are fan shourds on LQ GPUs














finally replace my water blocks and upgraded my gpus


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilnumber18*
> 
> [IMG
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yep thoes are fan shourds on LQ GPUs


Awesome job. But, I would highly recommend to ditch the Thermaltake block and buy some better. A used Rasa block will sell for ~$30-40 which is superior to that TT block. I tell you from past (and horrible) experience with TT water products. Just avoid them like the plague. For a few more dollars you can find a great used block.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> btw, anyone recommending me to but the Formula block? or just save the 100$ and use the existing one?
> 
> 
> 
> More for looks tbh. I do recall my old CHIVF vrm was hot and the block helped to lower the temps. Eventually, Asus fixed the issue. If you're having problems, just rma it. Mb blocks are more for show than go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Yet, this is ocn, so go for it
Click to expand...

My MB block is definitely ALL go. But even if it weren't it's still worthwhile because when you change to watercooling your Mainboard temp generally goes up. from lack of airflow. Even more so if you include your Graphics Card into the loop. Yeah the temp doesn't go up monumentally but it still goes up. I noticed this when I lowered the speed on my Exhaust fan and was running my H50. I had to boost my fans to max to get reasonable airflow across the Heatsink. So while I mostly agree with you I can't say that Mainboard blocks are all show.









I love my Mainboard block for the temps I get. Since I have had this block in place my NB temp has never been 10 degrees over CPU. It's within 3c of the CPU and mainboard temp is 9c under atm. I would recommend a FC for anyone that has the ability to get one for their board regardless of lack of go. Cause my board Folds when I game, I game when it's Folding. Sure I lose some PPD but not enough for it to be a concern.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My MB block is definitely ALL go. But even if it weren't it's still worthwhile because when you change to watercooling your Mainboard temp generally goes up. from lack of airflow. Even more so if you include your Graphics Card into the loop. Yeah the temp doesn't go up monumentally but it still goes up. I noticed this when I lowered the speed on my Exhaust fan and was running my H50. I had to boost my fans to max to get reasonable airflow across the Heatsink. So while I mostly agree with you I can't say that Mainboard blocks are all show.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my Mainboard block for the temps I get. Since I have had this block in place my NB temp has never been 10 degrees over CPU. It's within 3c of the CPU and mainboard temp is 9c under atm. I would recommend a FC for anyone that has the ability to get one for their board regardless of lack of go. Cause my board Folds when I game, I game when it's Folding. Sure I lose some PPD but not enough for it to be a concern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Even more important on my SR-2,these boards just radiate heat.
The stock heat sink arrangement is woeful on this board......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My MB block is definitely ALL go. But even if it weren't it's still worthwhile because when you change to watercooling your Mainboard temp generally goes up. from lack of airflow. Even more so if you include your Graphics Card into the loop. Yeah the temp doesn't go up monumentally but it still goes up. I noticed this when I lowered the speed on my Exhaust fan and was running my H50. I had to boost my fans to max to get reasonable airflow across the Heatsink. So while I mostly agree with you I can't say that Mainboard blocks are all show.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my Mainboard block for the temps I get. Since I have had this block in place my NB temp has never been 10 degrees over CPU. It's within 3c of the CPU and mainboard temp is 9c under atm. I would recommend a FC for anyone that has the ability to get one for their board regardless of lack of go. Cause my board Folds when I game, I game when it's Folding. Sure I lose some PPD but not enough for it to be a concern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


CHIVF was the only mb I have had chipset and vrm heat issues. Every other board was ok. I mainly have good enough air flow going to the board from the radiator fans as well as the rear fan intaking air towards the mb. I've had a few other boards (Asrock X79 Pro.) that was a bit warm but it was fairly normal and I didn't bother water cooling it.


----------



## evilnumber18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome job. But, I would highly recommend to ditch the Thermaltake block and buy some better. A used Rasa block will sell for ~$30-40 which is superior to that TT block. I tell you from past (and horrible) experience with TT water products. Just avoid them like the plague. For a few more dollars you can find a great used block.


i got it last year from a budy for really cheep and it has been doing the job now pretty well it keeps my 4.8ghz idle temp at 27 and under load at 67 but i will definantly be getting different one. thanks for the info and i do like the look of those Rasa blocks. what do you think are better between swiftech, EK, Rasa, or koolance?


----------



## Fuganater

They all basically perform the same in your case. Just get what looks the best.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilnumber18*
> 
> i got it last year from a budy for really cheep and it has been doing the job now pretty well it keeps my 4.8ghz idle temp at 27 and under load at 67 but i will definantly be getting different one. thanks for the info and i do like the look of those Rasa blocks. what do you think are better between swiftech, EK, Rasa, or koolance?


They're all pretty solid and great choices. The Rasa is more budget friendly but the others will nudge it out. The Apogee HD and Raystorm are better. Though, the raystorm doesn't do well with lga 2011 ( I see that's a RIVE you have there). Cant go wrong with most blocks out there. Here's a review from a member to help you make your decision:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They're all pretty solid and great choices. The Rasa is more budget friendly but the others will nudge it out. The Apogee HD and Raystorm are better. Though, the raystorm doesn't do well with lga 2011 ( I see that's a RIVE you have there). Cant go wrong with most blocks out there. Here's a review from a member to help you make your decision:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup


I've read this, and I think I got some miracle Raystorm sample. The contact is clearly the entire chip. The couple times I've reseated it, there's been a TIM outline the exact same shape as my 3820, and I'm sparing with my TIM. My temps are really really good too. Prior to adding in the 690, at 4.9ish load temp was 19-22 delta, and with the 690 it was about 25 delta.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I've read this, and I think I got some miracle Raystorm sample. The contact is clearly the entire chip. The couple times I've reseated it, there's been a TIM outline the exact same shape as my 3820, and I'm sparing with my TIM. My temps are really really good too. Prior to adding in the 690, at 4.9ish load temp was 19-22 delta, and with the 690 it was about 25 delta.


Awesome







. Maybe it was a revised one. I think its a great block but I've heard too many concerns with LGA2011. I had a Supreme HF rev.2 on my old 3820 and temps were pretty good.


----------



## kj1060

I thought the general consensus was to get the aluminum bracket to replace the acrylic one, that is stock with Raystorm, if you are using it for 2011? Or does this do nothing to help the Raystorm on 2011?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> I thought the general consensus was to get the aluminum bracket to replace the acrylic one, that is stock with Raystorm, if you are using it for 2011? Or does this do nothing to help the Raystorm on 2011?


From what i've heard, it was the shape of the copper base which is (or was) the concern.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My MB block is definitely ALL go. But even if it weren't it's still worthwhile because when you change to watercooling your Mainboard temp generally goes up. from lack of airflow. Even more so if you include your Graphics Card into the loop. Yeah the temp doesn't go up monumentally but it still goes up. I noticed this when I lowered the speed on my Exhaust fan and was running my H50. I had to boost my fans to max to get reasonable airflow across the Heatsink. So while I mostly agree with you I can't say that Mainboard blocks are all show.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my Mainboard block for the temps I get. Since I have had this block in place my NB temp has never been 10 degrees over CPU. It's within 3c of the CPU and mainboard temp is 9c under atm. I would recommend a FC for anyone that has the ability to get one for their board regardless of lack of go. Cause my board Folds when I game, I game when it's Folding. Sure I lose some PPD but not enough for it to be a concern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks for the feedback, but my question was either to buy the EK motherboard block (vrm+chipset) for a 100$ or stick with the one that already came on the motherboard.


Spoiler: i.e.













or this for +100$


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> thanks for the feedback, but my question was either to buy the EK motherboard block (vrm+chipset) for a 100$ or stick with the one that already came on the motherboard.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: i.e.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or this for +100$


Ah, you have the formula. Just use that one imho. Put the money towards something else like another 7950


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ah, you have the formula. Just use that one imho. Put the money towards something else like another 7950


but to justify another 7950 i'll have to go on 3 monitors setup to be worth it, which means i'll have to buy 3 new monitors (mine is already old and isn't the best). not to mention that i'll have to buy another block, and more rads....

i know its overkill.net but i have my (temporary







) limits.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> but to justify another 7950 i'll have to go on 3 monitors setup to be worth it, which means i'll have to buy 3 new monitors (mine is already old and isn't the best). not to mention that i'll have to buy another block, and more rads....
> i know its overkill.net but i have my (temporary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) limits.


Get a Korean 1440p monitor and you won't have to spend more.

I tried Eyefinity using two 7970s and there was still more to be desired. You want ~three 7950s to get the most of Eyefinity. A 1440p monitor will do just fine on two 7950s.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Get a Korean 1440p monitor and you won't have to spend more.
> I tried Eyefinity using two 7970s and there was still more to be desired. You want ~three 7950s to get the most of Eyefinity. A 1440p monitor will do just fine on two 7950s.


Where can us north americans get these famous korean 1440p monitors I keep hearing about?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Where can us north americans get these famous korean 1440p monitors I keep hearing about?


Ebay









Yamakasi Catleap:

www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/29240

Crossover 27q

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Crossover+27q&_sacat=0&_odkw=Crossover+27&_osacat=0&_from=R40

Make sure you buy from a seller with a good return policy. There are stories of dead pixel(s), faulty power cords, etc. They are a bit pricey ~$300-400 but better than an Hp or Dell, ~$1000. I know some guys in the Eyefinity and Surround clubs with three of them (or more!).

There's a couple of clubs for them here for more info. I do hear they can be overclocked


----------



## Hamy144

Just to jump in here and say the 1440p Koreans are epic and very well priced, ive got on and a 7950 and im pretty blown away and havent been limited by my 7950 yet, also since OCUK has dropped the price of their 7950's im going to pick one up in the next week or so.
And ive found a solution to my plasticizer problems which could turn out quite epic if it doesn't get too expensive


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Get a Korean 1440p monitor and you won't have to spend more.
> I tried Eyefinity using two 7970s and there was still more to be desired. You want ~three 7950s to get the most of Eyefinity. A 1440p monitor will do just fine on two 7950s.


i'll wait till a 1440p 120hz monitor arrives or something. maybe settle with a 1080p 120hz but we'll see
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Where can us north americans get these famous korean 1440p monitors I keep hearing about?


trust me, North America isn't the only one who doesn't get those. (Israel does not have those too, or heard of...)


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yamakasi Catleap:
> www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/29240
> Crossover 27q
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Crossover+27q&_sacat=0&_odkw=Crossover+27&_osacat=0&_from=R40
> Make sure you buy from a seller with a good return policy. There are stories of dead pixel(s), faulty power cords, etc. They are a bit pricey ~$300-400 but better than an Hp or Dell, ~$1000. I know some guys in the Eyefinity and Surround clubs with three of them (or more!).
> There's a couple of clubs for them here for more info. I do hear they can be overclocked


You linked this thread but I just looked it up on EBAY. WHY OH WHY did I have to discover these. I shouldn't be giving you rep for this for you have just ignited a fire which can probably only be extinguished one way.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> You linked this thread but I just looked it up on EBAY. WHY OH WHY did I have to discover these. I shouldn't be giving you rep for this for you have just ignited a fire which can probably only be extinguished one way.


----------



## NewHighScore

I should have never asked and just kept it in the back of my mind before like, "oh cool 1440p, that's some nice resolution" and left it at that.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> Thats the last you will see of that H100.
> XSPC and Specialtech are sponsoring a nice new loop for it.
> More chrome plated copper goodness coming soon!


you're going to get the kid hooked on watercooling. bad.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I should have never asked and just kept it in the back of my mind before like, "oh cool 1440p, that's some nice resolution" and left it at that.


Pretty much!

Just wait till you see 120hz too. Ruined me for life. After replacing my primary monitors at home with 120hz, I went out and bought one to use as my office monitor because I just couldn't take it anymore.


----------



## jassilamba

Guys need some advice on water cooling setup. I will be cooling a 2700K, and GTX 690. I will be running 2 rads, a UT 60 420, and UT 60 240.

Does this layout make sense (I do plan to overclock a bit in the future):

Res >> Pump >> 240 Rad >> GTX 690 >> 420 Rad >> CPU >> Res...

Blocks - CPU EK Supremacy Full Nickel
GPU - HeatKiller Hole Edition with backplate.

Case S810


----------



## hammerforged

^ Doesnt really even matter. Just as long as the res is feeding the pump. So start and finish your loop at the res.

The water flows so fast that it heats up as a whole. Also you want the shortest possible tubing runs. So whatever layout will getcha that is the best.


----------



## Michalius

Put it in whatever order is easiest for routing. Putting rads between parts has barely any effect on temps.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## hammerforged

Gosh dangit bundymania haha. You make my wallet hurt! Liking the new E-Loops


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> you're going to get the kid hooked on watercooling. bad.


Good.

I can vouch for the Shimian 1440p monitor,the casing is not so exciting but the panel......that gorgeous panel.....is worth the trade off.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Jeebus!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Guys need some advice on water cooling setup. I will be cooling a 2700K, and GTX 690. I will be running 2 rads, a UT 60 420, and UT 60 240.
> Does this layout make sense (I do plan to overclock a bit in the future):
> Res >> Pump >> 240 Rad >> GTX 690 >> 420 Rad >> CPU >> Res...
> Blocks - CPU EK Supremacy Full Nickel
> GPU - HeatKiller Hole Edition with backplate.
> Case S810


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ^ Doesnt really even matter. Just as long as the res is feeding the pump. So start and finish your loop at the res.
> The water flows so fast that it heats up as a whole. Also you want the shortest possible tubing runs. So whatever layout will getcha that is the best.


This...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Put it in whatever order is easiest for routing. Putting rads between parts has barely any effect on temps.


...and this


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yes, but does it fly?


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


That's Noiseblocker porn for you.
I REALLY wish there were a retailer here in brazil selling these. I would gladly spend a few 100's just for that awesome look.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ^ Doesnt really even matter. Just as long as the res is feeding the pump. So start and finish your loop at the res.
> The water flows so fast that it heats up as a whole. Also you want the shortest possible tubing runs. So whatever layout will getcha that is the best.


QFT.
@jassilamba - Make it look good









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good.
> I can vouch for the Shimian 1440p monitor,the casing is not so exciting but the panel......that gorgeous panel.....is worth the trade off.


The Crossover 27Q uses the same panel, which we all know is







But the casing is also very nice, feels very solid.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I sure like the Orange Rads...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice Job


Thanks! Was a pain to mask but well worth it, wanted to use some other colour but I had to go with a theme.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> It looks like the rad colors match, but the lighting is stronger on the left causing it to look lighter in the photo. At least that's what I would assume looking at the lighting pattern.


It is the lighting lol!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Very nice rig. It would look even better if those radiators matched eachother and the tubing! OR is it the lighting?


It's just the lighting, I shot this during low light and at night, will make a proper photoshoot as soon as the build is finished.


----------



## tx-jose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Just assembled it today, looks even better than on my drawings, I'm happy how it came out. It is now confirmed and off to mass production!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The EK-FB ASUS M5E prototype:


why is the M5E a once piece and the MEF a 2 piece?

How am i supposed to make the 2piece work with crossfire??!!!


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good.
> I can vouch for the Shimian 1440p monitor,the casing is not so exciting but the panel......that gorgeous panel.....is worth the trade off.


+1, get a catleap/shimian and then buy a mount for your wall/desk.

Once mounted the monitor is perfect. Literally the best purchase I ever made for my computer.


----------



## wermad

These Korean monitors are so tempting.....







.....must resist.....









I think my three 1080 ips screens are fine, especially in portrait mode. Eventually, I'm looking to start a car project so I'm saving for that and restraining (with much difficulty







) from spending more on my rig.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> +1, get a catleap/shimian and then buy a mount for your wall/desk.
> Once mounted the monitor is perfect. Literally the best purchase I ever made for my computer.


Why by the Catleap/Shimian variant, then fork over even more money for another mount? Why not just by the Crossover, they all use the same panel, and it has a superior mount.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> These Korean monitors are so tempting.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....must resist.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think my three 1080 ips screens are fine, especially in portrait mode. Eventually, I'm looking to start a car project so I'm saving for that and restraining (with much difficulty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) from spending more on my rig.


But your rig would handle it sooooo well.







Just think, portrait at 4320x2560


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Why by the Catleap/Shimian variant, then fork over even more money for another mount? Why not just by the Crossover, they all use the same panel, and it has a superior mount.
> But your rig would handle it sooooo well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just think, portrait at 4320x2560


I purchased mine in march when the crossover was more expensive, did not realize it was the same price now.

Crossover makes more sense.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Why by the Catleap/Shimian variant, then fork over even more money for another mount? Why not just by the Crossover, they all use the same panel, and it has a superior mount.
> But your rig would handle it sooooo well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just think, portrait at 4320x2560


lol, for three of the K-monitors, I would want to run at least three 7970s (or four). That might come next year. But little ips screens are fine for my needs. My current setup is still handicapped by 1.5gb of vram


----------



## Ednilson Luna

COSMOS S + WATER COOLER


----------



## Plutonium10

I'm having trouble choosing between buying Swiftech Apogee HD, Heatkiller Rev 3.0 copper, or Heatkiller Rev 3.0 Nickel. I'll be buying a Heatkiller 7970 GPU block so my preference would be to buy the Rev 3.0 to match it, but I've heard that the mounting system is a bit of a nuisance. Also, nickel would go much better with my build but I'm not sure if there's any realistic chance of the nickel flaking off and whether that should affect my decision. Price isn't really a deciding factor between the 3 either. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm having trouble choosing between buying Swiftech Apogee HD, Heatkiller Rev 3.0 copper, or Heatkiller Rev 3.0 Nickel. I'll be buying a Heatkiller 7970 GPU block so my preference would be to buy the Rev 3.0 to match it, but I've heard that the mounting system is a bit of a nuisance. Also, nickel would go much better with my build but I'm not sure if there's any realistic chance of the nickel flaking off and whether that should affect my decision. Price isn't really a deciding factor between the 3 either. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Apogee HD has a very simple mounting system. Its also price and performs slightly better. As much as I love HK gpu blocks, I really can't see myself recommending the cpu 3.0. Cpu-370 is also a nice choice too


----------



## Roikyou

Finished build, bad camera but you got to take what you can get and my rats nest of wiring hidden behind a panel...


----------



## Eylev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> His pump is below the Res, just where it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder




But the system running and the coolant level still at a high point.. Should this consider as a correct setup? As what i been told is Coolant in reservoir should be half when system is on and max to cap when shutdown.. Can advise me on this?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Apogee HD has a very simple mounting system. Its also price and performs slightly better. As much as I love HK gpu blocks, I really can't see myself recommending the cpu 3.0. Cpu-370 is also a nice choice too


Ok, thanks for the recommendation.







As far as GPU blocks go, does Heatkiller's nickel plating have a good reputation? It really would look sharp in my system especially with the matching silver backplate, but the EK horror stories of yesteryear have me paranoid.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Finished build, bad camera but you got to take what you can get and my rats nest of wiring *tubing* hidden behind a panel...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


FTFY


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Finished build, bad camera but you got to take what you can get and my rats nest of wiring hidden behind a panel...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That Wiring is not as bad as some i have seen.., Congrats


----------



## _REAPER_

Well gentleman first let me tell you how horrible it is to be deployed, what makes it worse is that I am currently living in a country I cannot get access to watercooling for my RIG so I am having it sent over to my APO.

With RR coming in 69 days and a bag and drag all I can do is do some simple mock ups to send home to my brother so he can get the ball rolling on the case mods that need to be done because I am an idiot and got the WATERCOOLING BUG.

Let me tell you all one thing you need a huge case or be willing to cut into your case to get the (AquaComputer Pump Adapter w/ Aqualis Res) It is 11inches tall and 3.5 inches wide. Below is my paint mock up because the USG will not allow Photoshop on our PCs here.

Please let me know what you guys think I know it is simple but need your input as cutting will begin shortly.

Stage 1



Stage 2



Stage 3


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Ok, thanks for the recommendation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as GPU blocks go, does Heatkiller's nickel plating have a good reputation? It really would look sharp in my system especially with the matching silver backplate, but the EK horror stories of yesteryear have me paranoid.


I have not heard a single whim of nickel defects of HK nickel blocks. Its German, nuff said


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Why by the Catleap/Shimian variant, then fork over even more money for another mount? Why not just by the Crossover, they all use the same panel, and it has a superior mount.
> But your rig would handle it sooooo well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just think, portrait at 4320x2560
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, for three of the K-monitors, I would want to run at least three 7970s (or four). That might come next year. But little ips screens are fine for my needs. My current setup is still handicapped by 1.5gb of vram
Click to expand...

You better watch yourself werm, your bank account may take a restraining order out on you.







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eylev*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> His pump is below the Res, just where it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the system running and the coolant level still at a high point.. Should this consider as a correct setup? As what i been told is Coolant in reservoir should be half when system is on and max to cap when shutdown.. Can advise me on this?
Click to expand...

I have my Res filled up all the way. The only air in my system is at the fillport and I'm running dual DDC setup similar to your D5 alignment. If you have a fillport directly to the Res, I'd recommend filling it all the way and leave the cap open. Make sure to have some paper towels on hand the first time you shut your system off because it will burp a little bit.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Well gentleman first let me tell you how horrible it is to be deployed, what makes it worse is that I am currently living in a country I cannot get access to watercooling for my RIG so I am having it sent over to my APO.
> 
> With RR coming in 69 days and a bag and drag all I can do is do some simple mock ups to send home to my brother so he can get the ball rolling on the case mods that need to be done because I am an idiot and got the WATERCOOLING BUG.
> 
> Let me tell you all one thing you need a huge case or be willing to cut into your case to get the (AquaComputer Pump Adapter w/ Aqualis Res) It is 11inches tall and 3.5 inches wide. Below is my paint mock up because the USG will not allow Photoshop on our PCs here.
> 
> Please let me know what you guys think I know it is simple but need your input as cutting will begin shortly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Stage 1
> 
> 
> 
> Stage 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stage 3










Yeah that should be pretty good _REAPER_ , did my specs and pic work for you?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Ok, thanks for the recommendation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as GPU blocks go, does Heatkiller's nickel plating have a good reputation? It really would look sharp in my system especially with the matching silver backplate, but the EK horror stories of yesteryear have me paranoid.
> 
> 
> 
> I have not heard a single whim of nickel defects of HK nickel blocks. Its German, nuff said
Click to expand...

Technically speaking so is EK.









~Ceadder


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quick question here, tried googling it to no avail and it's rather unworthy of it's own thread. Well I suppose a few little questions.

What is the purpose of a "riser" in a cylinder reservoir?

Why do some reservoir's have anti-cyclone technology (i.e. a plate at the bottom) when some (Alphacool Cape Cyclone) intentionally create a small vortex?

And I presume a vortex is bad for the loop?

One last thing, are koolance reservoirs a build your own combo type thing?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have not heard a single whim of nickel defects of HK nickel blocks. Its German, nuff said


Watercool stuff is simply the best finished gear money can buy it right now.
Aquacomputer gear is also nice but they dont finish stuff like Das Watercool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Technically speaking so is EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Technically speaking,they are Slovenian. Not German.
They are not even next to each other on the Map......and judging how most eastern block nations despise the Germans,its normally considered an insult.

There are fewer ways to get dead faster than calling someone from these nations German......or Russian.

https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&q=Slovenia&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x476524e75e968361:0xe740451e25e2d465,Slovenia&gl=uk&ei=4392ULjUI4ej0QWcgoHACg&ved=0CJkBELYD


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are fewer ways to get dead faster than calling someone from these nations German......or Russian.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread UPDATED...got sick of lagging 50 pages behind all the time so i had a marathon session.

Welcome to all the new watercoolers!

Thread milestone of 1500 members has been passed.

Great work!

There maybe one change to be made,i think we need to put bundy's pr0n pics in his own little spreadsheet,he is making me have to scroll over and endlessly creating new cells....even on my 1440p!!
So,if no one has any objections,that is what i will setup in the next few days.


----------



## mandrix

Make it easy on yourself, B.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Quick question here, tried googling it to no avail and it's rather unworthy of it's own thread. Well I suppose a few little questions.
> What is the purpose of a "riser" in a cylinder reservoir?
> Why do some reservoir's have anti-cyclone technology (i.e. a plate at the bottom) when some (Alphacool Cape Cyclone) intentionally create a small vortex?
> And I presume a vortex is bad for the loop?
> One last thing, are koolance reservoirs a build your own combo type thing?


the riser is to help stop cyclones being made, just like the other res with anti-cyclone technology.

the reason this is bad is it can suck air all the way down to your pump, so it will be putting air into your loop. and you dont want that, u want all the air out as water has better thermal properties, hence why we water cool,









best of luck with ur build

_Cheers GEorge _


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Technically speaking,they are Slovenian. Not German.
> They are not even next to each other on the Map......and judging how most eastern block nations despise the Germans,its normally considered an insult.
> There are fewer ways to get dead faster than calling someone from these nations German......or Russian.
> https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&q=Slovenia&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x476524e75e968361:0xe740451e25e2d465,Slovenia&gl=uk&ei=4392ULjUI4ej0QWcgoHACg&ved=0CJkBELYD


Seriously, how did you come up with that *****?








Are you really trying to say you can get killed here or in any other Eastern European country if you are German or Russian? Is this a joke?









You should be ashamed of yourself, these type of xenophobic statements are no longer accepted in the 21st century. Simply horrible thing to say.

P.S.: Slovenia is geographically speaking Central Europe.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Seriously, how did you come up with that *****?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you really trying to say you can get killed here or in any other Eastern European country if you are German or Russian? Is this a joke?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be ashamed of yourself, these type of xenophobic statements are no longer accepted in the 21st century. Simply horrible thing to say.
> P.S.: Slovenia is geographically speaking Central Europe.


Watching a lithuanian break a mans face apart while working on site because he called him a russian kinda gave me first hand experience of it Niko.
We have a lot of eastern block countries here in the UK now,its kind of common knowledge.

Of course not everybody is like that,that is mad,but there are some that take their national identity VERY seriously.

Apologies if you are offended Niko.


----------



## tiborrr12

I also saw numerous videos of English soccer fans killing a people just because they were from Turkey. Or British soldiers killing Irish civil-rights protesters. But I do not project these incidents on the whole nation wide scale not would I ever say such a thing!









Yes, I am very offended by such statements. I live in the town on the border with Austria for all my life and we live in peace with each other for hundredths of years without incidents. When you stop by our country be sure to call me so I can give you a tour (it's a small country though







) and you can try some Slovenian cousine.

Regards,
Niko


----------



## Fuganater




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*


I know,but it is best resolved now with no ill feeling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I also saw numerous videos of English soccer fans killing a people just because they were from Turkey. Or British soldiers killing Irish civil-rights protesters. But I do not project these incidents on the whole nation wide scale not would I ever say such a thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I am very offended by such statements. I live in the town on the border with Austria for all my life and we live in peace with each other for hundredths of years without incidents. When you stop by our country be sure to call me so I can give you a tour (it's a small country though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and you can try some Slovenian cousine.
> Regards,
> Niko


I did generalize,i can only offer my apologies Niko.

As long as red cabbage is not on the menu,i will take you up on that.


----------



## tiborrr12

No red cabbage then. Win-win!









If not else, you will enjoy this:










OK, enough off topic now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Now then,thats better,im down with Cake.

ON WITH THE SHOW!


----------



## Fuganater

I'll get us back on track. After talking with B-Neg, I'm working on modding my EK-Multioption Basic 250 Res.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Specialtech sent me the block for the z77 build im doing..










Im am going to DiNoc the hold downs for sure.


----------



## PCModderMike

Mmmmm Di-Noc


----------



## ginger_nuts

That block is just pure style.

I love it


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> FTFY


Actually, the tubing is the way I planned it, slack in case I need it for behind the resevoir and a loop at the bottom so I don't get any kinks. In fact, I had to drain the system and the extra slack at the bottom was a great help, I pulled the lower radiator, put it in a bucket basically and drained it.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No red cabbage then. Win-win!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not else, you will enjoy this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Cake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, enough off topic now


You can post that Here.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thread UPDATED...got sick of lagging 50 pages behind all the time so i had a marathon session.
> 
> Welcome to all the new watercoolers!
> 
> Thread milestone of 1500 members has been passed.
> 
> Great work!
> 
> 
> 
> There maybe one change to be made,i think we need to put *bundy's pr0n pics* in his own little spreadsheet,he is making me have to scroll over and endlessly creating new cells....even on my 1440p!!
> So,if no one has any objections,that is what i will setup in the next few days.


This needs to be a thread that only he can post in, I bet $100 it would end up being the most viewed thread in no time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

DiNoc!




























Doing the edges is a right pain but you have to do it to carry it off.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DiNoc!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the edges is a right pain but you have to do it to carry it off.


That looks amazing B neg. Way to turn a sexy block even sexier!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thread UPDATED
> There maybe one change to be made,i think we need to put bundy's pr0n pics in his own little spreadsheet,he is making me have to scroll over and endlessly creating new cells....even on my 1440p!!
> So,if no one has any objections,that is what i will setup in the next few days.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> That looks amazing B neg. Way to turn a sexy block even sexier!


----------



## derickwm

Meep. Love me some AC pr0n.


----------



## Bigbrag

I cheaped out and reused the white tubing but I finally made my revisions to the loop and it is now much cleaner and simpler. I ran all bitspower compressions and angles. I still have a bunch of 45" but I couldn't find a good way to use them. This reservoir (koolance 402x2) is the biggest pain in the but to bleed. It took around 8 hours of tilting and taking everything apart and filling etc to get the thing to start pushing water on its own, but it finally got going and is still slowly bleeding air, even after 4 or so days. I'm still waiting on an a riser cable to connect the sound card. The red herbie clamps keep the tubing nice and round so that I don't have to work about kinks on the those tight bends.

Anyways, here are the new pics:


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have not heard a single whim of nickel defects of HK nickel blocks. Its German, nuff said


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Watercool stuff is simply the best finished gear money can buy it right now.
> Aquacomputer gear is also nice but they dont finish stuff like Das Watercool.


Thanks, guys. In that case, I'll be going ahead with the nickel block. Rep.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> No red cabbage then. Win-win!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not else, you will enjoy this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, enough off topic now


Oh man, Kremsnita, it's been too long since we have shared some time together.

Besides the beautiful rolling green hills, the views of the Julian Alps above Bled, the amazing Pizza at Ljbljanski Dvor, the awesome people, it's what I miss the most. Need to book a flight soon.

Also, calling Slovenia Eastern Bloc is silly. Austria to the North, Italy to the west. Technically speaking, Yugoslavia was not Eastern Bloc as they weren't part of the Warsaw Pact. Yugoslavia traded openly with capitalist countries (remember the Yugo?) and was a market socialist country, not pejorative communist. Just sayin'.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DiNoc!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the edges is a right pain but you have to do it to carry it off.


Motherofgod.jpeg

When is this out?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Technically speaking so is EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What a fire storm you unleashed Ceadder! Yeah, I'm sure this has been discussed judging by the several pages







I'll leave at that









New fittings come in today and the Monsta 240







. Ppcs.com hasn't updated my order even after several emails


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New fittings come in today and the Monsta 240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ppcs.com hasn't updated my order even after several emails











Pics When you get Please


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Technically speaking so is EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a fire storm you unleashed Ceadder! Yeah, I'm sure this has been discussed judging by the several pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll leave at that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New fittings come in today and the Monsta 240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ppcs.com hasn't updated my order even after several emails
Click to expand...

OCN is in serious need of a Sarcasm emote. Apologies guys, I didn't think this would cause the $#!zstorm that it did.









Ms. Keener is not very good at keeping customers updated werm. You've dealt with them long enough that you should know that by now. I've given up checking their tracking because it's not at all reliable. All it says 3 or 4 days after pick is "Shipped" and having see it start on a Saturday and knowing USPS doesn't ship on Saturday, I'm reasonably certain that the earliest things ship is that following Monday. If I wasn't such a broke azz I would ship through one of their overnight carriers the next fastest over the ground option. :









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics When you get Please


Will do








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> OCN is in serious need of a Sarcasm emote. Apologies guys, I didn't think this would cause the $#!zstorm that it did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Keener is not very good at keeping customers updated werm. You've dealt with them long enough that you should know that by now. I've given up checking their tracking because it's not at all reliable. All it says 3 or 4 days after pick is "Shipped" and having see it start on a Saturday and knowing USPS doesn't ship on Saturday, I'm reasonably certain that the earliest things ship is that following Monday. If I wasn't such a broke azz I would ship through one of their overnight carriers the next fastest over the ground option. :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I called them and apparently customs held their Alphacool shipment. It just came in today so its shipping out today







. Something is iffy with their emails system because my messages from three days ago are just showing up today







. Anyways, the rep was very cool and helped me out with another order. I knew even if they shipped this week it wouldn't have arrived until next week, so I'm not bothered at all.

I might be able to plumb the Monsta 240 and the GTX 240 for now to run my rig since the enzotech fittings arrive today


----------



## Ceadderman

Customer... :What the hell how come you're ignoring my attempts to contact you...









PPC Rep... : What do you mean we're ignoring you, we only just received your email *walks over to the computer boots up with fingers and toes crossed* yes here it is...









Customer... : *Incredulously exclaims* Oh uh okay cool...









Maybe back in the day of Windows 3.1 but now?
















lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Customer... :What the hell how come you're ignoring my attempts to contact you...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PPC Rep... : What do you mean we're ignoring you, we only just received your email *walks over to the computer boots up with fingers and toes crossed* yes here it is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Customer... : *Incredulously exclaims* Oh uh okay cool...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe back in the day of Windows 3.1 but now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


lol, I don't know but usually if I do not get an email reply, I'll just call. I know what it is to get stuff held up through customs. I'm just glad the Monstas are coming soon. Whining, crying, complaining, etc.....meh, I don't see the need for it


----------



## NewHighScore

*Don't ya just loooooooove customs?*

I really don't understand the whole process. When I order from Aquatuning it comes from Germany to Western Canada in 3-4 days. And a small custom fee is included in shipping. When I order from FrozenCPU my package takes usually 2-3 weeks and can sit at customs for up to a week if I'm unlucky. Then I get dinged very hard with custom fees ordering from them.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> *Don't ya just loooooooove customs?*
> I really don't understand the whole process. When I order from Aquatuning it comes from Germany to Western Canada in 3-4 days. And a small custom fee is included in shipping. When I order from FrozenCPU my package takes usually 2-3 weeks and can sit at customs for up to a week if I'm unlucky. Then I get dinged very hard with custom fees ordering from them.


I always have issues with customs when ordering from Newegg to Canada.. takes a week plus initial shipping time. I've ordered plenty of things from China on a Friday and had it in-hand by Monday.. what gives!


----------



## wermad

simple things I've ordered from a chineses ebay seller will arrive fairly quick considering the origin.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> I always have issues with customs when ordering from Newegg to Canada.. takes a week plus initial shipping time. I've ordered plenty of things from China on a Friday and had it in-hand by Monday.. what gives!


I know I hate ordering Newegg for this very reason as well. I only use them if I can't get what I want elsewhere. NCIX is usually very fast shipping to Edmonton. Sometimes only 24 hours..


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I dunno but it sounds eerily similar to (see below)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So true.. so, so true..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I know I hate ordering Newegg for this very reason as well. I only use them if I can't get what I want elsewhere. NCIX is usually very fast shipping to Edmonton. Sometimes only 24 hours..


I'll have to look into NCIX a bit more I suppose.. I absolutely hate delays in shipping! Going down to Arizona for a vacation this weekend for a couple weeks, going to hit up Fry's Electronics for my second 670.. then time to get them wet!


----------



## chino1974

Here's a update to my "Lethal Threat" build. Let me know what you guys think


----------



## nyk20z3

That is very unique i have never seen anything like that.


----------



## wermad

Just got my rad and its huge!!!!!! pics will be up shortly. Sadly, got shorted one fitting from jab-tech. Sent them a message







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> I always have issues with customs when ordering from Newegg to Canada.. takes a week plus initial shipping time. I've ordered plenty of things from China on a Friday and had it in-hand by Monday.. what gives!
> 
> 
> 
> I know I hate ordering Newegg for this very reason as well. I only use them if I can't get what I want elsewhere. NCIX is usually very fast shipping to Edmonton. Sometimes only 24 hours..
Click to expand...

You guys should be ordering from DazMode and NCIX. I love the Egg but they don't have much if anything for WaterCooling Fanatics like us.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just got my rad and its huge!!!!!! pics will be up shortly. Sadly, got shorted one fitting from jab-tech. Sent them a message
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Haha I just submitted my order and payment for 6 new Monsoon Fittings. Got the Red 1/2" x 3/4" ones. Had em shipped Priority Mail so I expect they'll be here by Saturday or Monday at the latest. Then when I have the funds I'll get another 6 so I have extras on hand for adding in the GPU kit.









So if anyone is looking to get some more EK Black Nickel Comps know that mine will be ready to go on the Pronto.









I love them but boredom overtook me 6 months after completing my loop. That and these didn't stand out enough in my pics.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## RKTGX95

in your personal opinion, which would be a better WC case (similar price)

CM Storm Trooper Window (looks like the stryker but in black) or the NZXT Switch 810 black non SE (aka "glossy black").

the way i see it its a difference of a 120.1 worth of rad space, but i'd like to hear any opinions from the club.


----------



## wermad

Monsta 240 Vs. GTX 240


----------



## Michalius

The Monsta size isn't something you ever really get over. Every time I open my case I think "what is that giant thing!?". Monsta is a perfect name for it.


----------



## ginger_nuts

@RKTGX95

The CM Storm Trooper is slightly more limited then the Switch 810.

Looked in to it just the other day, In the CM Trooper, you loose the use of the bottom tool box, using a 240 rad.

At least the Switch will take a 360 top and 240 at the front with no modding.

My opinion is the Trooper is good if you want to mod. the switch is great if you want to water cool more.

But if you can the Bitfenix Shinobi Window is also a great water cooling case, but the wife says the Switch looks more stylish.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You guys should be ordering from DazMode and NCIX. I love the Egg but they don't have much if anything for WaterCooling Fanatics like us.


I do order from Dazmode but unfortunately nearly everything I want from him is always out of stock. Out of my loop I got my D5, Black XSPC D5 dual bay res, mayhem's pastel yellow and my feser tubing(hope no plasticizer issues fingers crossed). I do like to support Canadian business as well as dodge any kind of extra fees. I just really really really love Aquatuning. I don't know how but their packages arrive at my door quicker then Dazmode even.


----------



## Michalius

Shinobi XL technically can hold more rad space, but at the cost of a thinner rad up top, compared to the Switch. Shinobi XL and Switch are the way to go if you don't want to have to cut anything.


----------



## ErBall

Horrible photo, but i just re-did my loop. New GTX670 4gb + heatkiller block and backplate.

Loops consists of Rasa block, Heakiller GPU block, mcp355 with xspc dual bay res, and rx360.


----------



## Ceadderman

That Shinobi XL kina reminds me of the CM 690 II.









Your wife is right the Switch is more stylish. Although I'm not a fan of cases with doors on them. Too much chance of something breaking. Which is why I would never buy one. Wish the 932 had modular Drive Racks like the 912 does. Kina surprised that CM never thought of that with the 932 Advanced and the HAF X.









~Ceadder


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> @RKTGX95
> The CM Storm Trooper is slightly more limited then the Switch 810.
> Looked in to it just the other day, In the CM Trooper, you loose the use of the bottom tool box, using a 240 rad.
> At least the Switch will take a 360 top and 240 at the front with no modding.
> My opinion is the Trooper is good if you want to mod. the switch is great if you want to water cool more.
> But if you can the Bitfenix Shinobi Window is also a great water cooling case, but the wife says the Switch looks more stylish.


thanks. i don't think that loosing the toolbox would be a deal breaker








anyway, i guess the real conflict for me is the styles. one has a great simple yet elegant style while the other has a distinct style and a bit less plastic. also a problem for me that i can't get the SE 810 (local retailer promised it but go figure when...) and thus i'll have to deal with "good ol' glossy" black 810.

btw, shouldn't 2x 240 handle a cpu+2 gpus ?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> thanks. i don't think that loosing the toolbox would be a deal breaker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyway, i guess the real conflict for me is the styles. one has a great simple yet elegant style while the other has a distinct style and a bit less plastic. also a problem for me that i can't get the SE 810 (local retailer promised it but go figure when...) and thus i'll have to deal with "good ol' glossy" black 810.
> btw, shouldn't 2x 240 handle a cpu+2 gpus ?


Depends entirely on the rads, the CPU, and GPUs.

You can generally look up reviews of the rads in question to see how many watts of heat they dissipate at different RPM's to get an idea.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Depends entirely on the rads, the CPU, and GPUs.
> You can generally look up reviews of the rads in question to see how many watts of heat they dissipate at different RPM's to get an idea.


so for the sake of simplicity, lets say 2x RX240 with 1200rpm push pull, 3570k and 2x 7970.

and would i see a big difference by going non SE on the 810 or no?

(also, waiting on the new Phantom and see how promising that is







)


----------



## Michalius

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/27/xspc-rx360-radiator/4/

Add up the watts that your 7970s and 3570K use at load.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Shinobi XL technically can hold more rad space, but at the cost of a thinner rad up top, compared to the Switch. Shinobi XL and Switch are the way to go if you don't want to have to cut anything.


Elysium can do more rad powah!


----------



## Michalius

I always forget about that guy, thanks!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Elysium can do more rad powah!


Meh Fulmo GT ftw!


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*


it's a lie... It's a lie....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Meh Fulmo GT ftw!


Ha! I have no fixed 3.5 cage to contend with; stick the rad in the front, done!























Following your build log btw









edit: Test fitted my Monsta with a set of fan on top, super slim clearance


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> it's a lie... It's a lie....


lol....


----------



## JohnnyEars

All this talk of Monstas is scaring my wallet


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose*
> 
> why is the M5E a once piece and the MEF a 2 piece?
> How am i supposed to make the 2piece work with crossfire??!!!


Speaking of that ^...
I'm loving me some EK FC motherboard blocks, and I am especially in love with the new CSQ line! However...what I really want to know is when will EK start showing AMD a little more love? I would *LOVE* me some EK even more if they had full cover mobo blocks for some of the lesser AMD 990 series boards (ie. Gigabyte's UD3 and UD5 series, MSI's GD55,65, and 80, maybe ASRock's Pro 970) just to name a few.








You know, us budget-minded builders would like a little "Full-Cover Mojo" too!









Anyway, I'll keep waiting....

Patiently....

waiting...

still....


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Specialtech sent me the block for the z77 build im doing..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im am going to DiNoc the hold downs for sure.


I saw one of those on ebay today, but it was Cuplex XT, not the HD. Also, it was acrylic...I tried to google some reviews, but didn't really find much. It is listed for $75 - too much for a CPU block I'm not familiar with. Anyone else had experience with them?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Speaking of that ^...
> I'm loving me some EK FC motherboard blocks, and I am especially in love with the new CSQ line! However...what I really want to know is when will EK start showing AMD a little more love? I would *LOVE* me some EK even more if they had full cover mobo blocks for some of the lesser AMD 990 series boards (ie. Gigabyte's UD3 and UD5 series, MSI's GD55,65, and 80, maybe ASRock's Pro 970) just to name a few.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'll keep waiting....
> Patiently....
> waiting...
> still....


EK do a AMD kit, separate blocks for the MOSFET's, NB chip and SB chip.

Here and Here if you are lucky enough to have the UD7 you can get a full cover block


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Monsta 240 Vs. GTX 240


FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT'S HOLY! I feel so inadequate right now...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> EK do a AMD kit, separate blocks for the MOSFET's, NB chip and SB chip.
> Here and Here if you are lucky enough to have the UD7 you can get a full cover block


Oh yeah, I am well aware of the "seperate blocks system" - I'm sorry, but it sucks! I have an entire list of reasons why it sucks, but number one is that you typically cannot cool the SB with the individual blocks. The fittings for the SB interfere with the video card. Therefore it is sooooooo necessary to have a single, or even a 2 pc. cover block that allows for a low-profile circulation cover of the SB that has the fittings higher on the board. If you look at the few "block systems" EK has available, (ie. for the Gig UD5) they sell you 3 blocks in the kit, but there is a big, fat, " * " - it says that you will not be able to utilize the SB block in the kit. Anyway....

Still waiting...lol


----------



## ginger_nuts

Yeh totally agree. a single block would be nicer looking so much.

Maybe if enough of us complained enough they may do something.

I believe there is a EK R&D on here, maybe they could help us AMD people.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT'S HOLY! I feel so inadequate right now...




Challenging my psu for size supremacy. 360s should dominate once they're *both* in


----------



## wermad

Double post









Loving the Enzotechs! Very smooth and easy to install! I no longer have to make my fingers ache installing fittings







They also include an neon orange and yellow o-ring too.



I ordered a couple more from another site as I'm sure jab-tech won't be sending my missing one any time soon.

btw. These cleared my fans on the Monstas! Good thing I didn't go with 1/2x3/4 (phew)







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Double post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving the Enzotechs! Very smooth and easy to install! I no longer have to make my fingers ache installing fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They also include an neon orange and yellow o-ring too.
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered a couple more from another site as I'm sure jab-tech won't be sending my missing one any time soon.
> 
> btw. These cleared my fans on the Monstas! Good thing I didn't go with 1/2x3/4 (phew)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .










... is Jab-Tech bad on shipping? Hope not cause that's where I bought my replacement fittings from.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Monsta 240 Vs. GTX 240


And the Winner is Monsta by a Knock OUT !!!!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... is Jab-Tech bad on shipping? Hope not cause that's where I bought my replacement fittings from.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think their inventory didn't match with their actual stock. Its happen before but Jim is pretty good at fixing these things. I'm sure he won't have any more so I ordered a couple from Koolertek. I might just get a refund on the jab-tech one. I love these. Slightly difficult compared to the BP, but far better than the xspc ones.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> And the Winner is Monsta by a Knock OUT !!!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... is Jab-Tech bad on shipping? Hope not cause that's where I bought my replacement fittings from.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think their inventory didn't match with their actual stock. Its happen before but Jim is pretty good at fixing these things. I'm sure he won't have any more so I ordered a couple from Koolertek. I might just get a refund on the jab-tech one. I love these. Slightly difficult compared to the BP, but far better than the xspc ones.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> And the Winner is Monsta by a Knock OUT !!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Okay kewl, you had me a little worried there for a bit. Hope their stock is full on my Monsoons.









Soon as I sell my fittings I'll be fleshing the rest out.









~Ceadder


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> *Don't ya just loooooooove customs?*
> I really don't understand the whole process. When I order from Aquatuning it comes from Germany to Western Canada in 3-4 days. And a small custom fee is included in shipping. When I order from FrozenCPU my package takes usually 2-3 weeks and can sit at customs for up to a week if I'm unlucky. Then I get dinged very hard with custom fees ordering from them.


FrozenCPU takes 4 days to make it to my APO in Afghanistan


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> *Don't ya just loooooooove customs?*
> I really don't understand the whole process. When I order from Aquatuning it comes from Germany to Western Canada in 3-4 days. And a small custom fee is included in shipping. When I order from FrozenCPU my package takes usually 2-3 weeks and can sit at customs for up to a week if I'm unlucky. Then I get dinged very hard with custom fees ordering from them.
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenCPU takes 4 days to make it to my APO in Afghanistan
Click to expand...

Show off.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Wermad I'm curious to hear if see any drops in temps. I kind of wish I picked up some Monstas, as I definitely have the room in my case.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Show off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think because it is shipped from the Eastern USA mil flights bringing mail pick it up fast plus mail is a priority here


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Show off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think because it is shipped from the Eastern USA mil flights bringing mail pick it up fast plus mail is a priority here
Click to expand...

I know. Our mail got to us on the DT as well. Nobody likes a show off though... well okay yeah we do but four days is like pouring a keg of salt on an open wound.







lol

U get your 3rd GPU yet?









~Ceadder


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I know. Our mail got to us on the DT as well. Nobody likes a show off though... well okay yeah we do but four days is like pouring a keg of salt on an open wound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> U get your 3rd GPU yet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Will do so on the 19th.. I forgot how much watercooling costs lol


----------



## derickwm

1-10 on a level of silliness.. how silly would this be?









Res->Pumps->240->Ares->480->Ares->120->360->SR-2->CPU->RAM->RAM->CPU->VRM->480->480 and repeat

Should probably clarify that I'll be lining up fittings so everything is a straight shot.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1-10 on a level of silliness.. how silly would this be?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res->Pumps->240->Ares->480->Ares->120->360->SR-2->CPU->RAM->RAM->CPU->VRM->480->480 and repeat
> Should probably clarify that I'll be lining up fittings so everything is a straight shot.












How many rads? that is insane, but awesome


----------



## ChaosAD

Low level watercooling. Need more rads!!!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 1-10 on a level of silliness.. how silly would this be?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res->Pumps->240->Ares->480->Ares->120->360->SR-2->CPU->RAM->RAM->CPU->VRM->480->480 and repeat
> Should probably clarify that I'll be lining up fittings so everything is a straight shot.


Won't make any difference to temps but if it cleans up your tubing then that's all good.


----------



## driftingforlife

1c-2c difference maybe. I would drop the RAM block's, they are pointless and just add tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> 1c-2c difference maybe. *I would drop the RAM block's, they are pointless and just add tubing*.


Agreed.
They do clean up the tubing when you have a SR-2 tho.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## KaRLiToS

Ceadderman, you are such a troublemaker. Such a Mister Knowitall.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Ceadderman, you are such a troublemaker. Such a Mister Knowitall.


It's because he's always drinking.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Ceadderman, you are such a troublemaker. Such a Mister Knowitall.


haha, It amazing all the information you can find on Google.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's because he's always drinking.


Or this.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> haha, It amazing all the information you can find on Google.
> Or this.


Google knows more then all of my teachers ever combined!


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Google knows more then all of my teachers ever combined!


And they "watch" you more than any of your teachers combined lol


----------



## driftingforlife

Got my parts.



Didn't know Acool were so tight, no molex on the pump, gunna have to go buy one.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> And they "watch" you more than any of your teachers combined lol


Hehe it's ok I'm a good boy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Got my parts.
> 
> Didn't know Acool were so tight, no molex on the pump, gunna have to go buy one.


Wow what the......? I would send it back or request that the retailer send you a molex connector. Or you could just take a spare one of some cable you have which is not being used.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Got my parts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't know Acool were so tight, no molex on the pump, gunna have to go buy one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


? interesting... i don't have any experience with these, but all 4 of my DDC's have had connectors on them


----------



## derickwm

Meh I like them, and they were sponsored so they won't be going anywhere


----------



## driftingforlife

CBA to wait, want to fit it today, and i need two new male pins as they are crimp on.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


These in Orange would look Sweet..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by KaRLiToS
> 
> Ceadderman, you are such a troublemaker. Such a Mister Knowitall.
> 
> 
> 
> It's because he's always drinking.
Click to expand...


----------



## JohnnyEars

New bits!!

I didn't realise just how phat a 200mm x 80mm reservoir was... so I ordered a 120mm Monsta so it wouldn't look out of place - and 7x AP-15's


----------



## RKTGX95

i never really understood how do you guys mount those Tube reservoirs (without modding), could anyone explain me?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i never really understood how do you guys mount those Tube reservoirs (without modding), could anyone explain me?


Basic / easy modding.

I had to drill some holes to mount the reservoir holder (clamps). Its the only modding you need to do! Basic modding. If you want more modding, you can drill a bigger hole at the top of your case and insert a fillport with a tube connecting the fillport and the top of the reservoir. This is obviously to facilitate water filling.

.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i never really understood how do you guys mount those Tube reservoirs (without modding), could anyone explain me?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Basic / easy modding.
> I had to drill some holes to mount the reservoir holder (clamps). Its the only modding you need to do! Basic modding. If you want more modding, you can drill a bigger hole at the top of your case and insert a fillport with a tube connecting the fillport and the top of the reservoir. This is obviously to facilitate water filling.
> .


This^

Example of This


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Basic / easy modding.
> I had to drill some holes to mount the reservoir holder (clamps). Its the only modding you need to do! Basic modding. If you want more modding, you can drill a bigger hole at the top of your case and insert a fillport with a tube connecting the fillport and the top of the reservoir. This is obviously to facilitate water filling.
> .


I find fill ports unnessesary, but yes very easy, two holes that are perfectly straight and your sweet

another example


----------



## _Killswitch_

1st time setting - up a loop, letting it run to try get some of the Air bubbles out. Only things hooked up is the 24 pin and fan controller to run my Corsair fans.




Pic's was taken with my Electrify 2, so please forgive them.
Guess you can add me to the club?


----------



## KaRLiToS

I had no choice but to put a fillport. My top radiator is really close to the top of my reservoir. The easiest way to fill the reservoir was to add a fillport.


----------



## steelkevin

I can see how a bleed line would help/be necessary but to fill I just take the reservoir of the Plastic Clamps and fill it.
I guess most people just use the top as inlet which is why pulling it off the clamps isn't an option.

I wouldn't go as far as calling drilling two holes modding but that's just me (I wouldn't call myself a modder since I don't consider having drilled holes in my case modding).

@Killswitch: You might want to use kitchen roll instead of that blue cloth (or is that a T-shirt ?).


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I had no choice but to put a fillport. My top radiator is really close to the top of my reservoir. The easiest way to fill the reservoir was to add a fillport.


It does look tight, heh. I use a 90/45 rotary with a barb connected then a funnel and hose for those tight situations. That might work for you in the future. In my old lian li rig, there was no room, maybe a few mm to the panel above the res. I used a long straw to stick into the res with a syringe lol. The main filling I could use a funnel/hose, but to top off as it bled out I used the straw/syringe. Good thing I only did it once a year!


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i never really understood how do you guys mount those Tube reservoirs (without modding), could anyone explain me?


I've got a Koolance D5 top (COV-RP450 rev2).. all I needed to fit the res directly to the pump top is a 60mm - 80mm adapter, and I'll work out securing the res depending where exactly it fits in my case


----------



## driftingforlife

Just want to check I have wired the pump right?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Just want to check I have wired the pump right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks right to me....








.... 12V in the 12V spot and Neg to Neg


----------



## driftingforlife

Thanks, gunna leek test the res/pump.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Just want to check I have wired the pump right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Assuming red is +12v then yes.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hanoverfist is right

Not my photo, 12v on Yellow


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> 1st time setting - up a loop, letting it run to try get some of the Air bubbles out. Only things hooked up is the 24 pin and fan controller to run my Corsair fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pic's was taken with my Electrify 2, so please forgive them.
> Guess you can add me to the club?


Looks good so far. How long do you plan on running your loop with that coolant in there?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i never really understood how do you guys mount those Tube reservoirs (without modding), could anyone explain me?


Tube res are eary to mount and can usually be done witout modding. You can get mounts to attach the tube to a 120 fan mount and EK make a nice uni-holders that can be used to mount the res just about anywhere. Here is my BP res on a Swiftech pump. the pump is mounted to the floor. This is small enough that I did not need to support the res but I did have it set up to have a single res mount attached to the bottom fan.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Just want to check I have wired the pump right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It is, but the color isn't so important as the wire position in relation to the molex key.


----------



## driftingforlife

Did a quick leek check, all working fine.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Tube res are eary to mount and can usually be done witout modding. You can get mounts to attach the tube to a 120 fan mount and EK make a nice uni-holders that can be used to mount the res just about anywhere. Here is my BP res on a Swiftech pump. the pump is mounted to the floor. This is small enough that I did not need to support the res but I did have it set up to have a single res mount attached to the bottom fan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks so compact - yet so clean at the same time.. I do like!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> It does look tight, heh. I use a 90/45 rotary with a barb connected then a funnel and hose for those tight situations. That might work for you in the future. In my old lian li rig, there was no room, maybe a few mm to the panel above the res. I used a long straw to stick into the res with a syringe lol. The main filling I could use a funnel/hose, but to top off as it bled out I used the straw/syringe. Good thing I only did it once a year!


I just pull a tube off or open the res while the rig is on its side.

My bench was great,just push the res over a few inches then take the cap off.
This has been posted before,apologies


----------



## Michalius

Alright, looks like the PC-V7 is nearly $550 all said and done with shipping taken into account to the US. That's pretty hard to swallow, especially when the V8 can be had for $50 more.

Looks like I need to force myself to finally start modding my PC-V700X to house some watercooling parts.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Nice Bench.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Wermad I'm curious to hear if see any drops in temps. I kind of wish I picked up some Monstas, as I definitely have the room in my case.


Will do


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Double post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving the Enzotechs! Very smooth and easy to install! I no longer have to make my fingers ache installing fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They also include an neon orange and yellow o-ring too.
> 
> I ordered a couple more from another site as I'm sure jab-tech won't be sending my missing one any time soon.
> btw. These cleared my fans on the Monstas! Good thing I didn't go with 1/2x3/4 (phew)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


All i use is there fittings and i love them all.


----------



## _Killswitch_

It a hospital Towel, My aunt works in a hospital, so she brings us them. Video card had no power so don't think the towel will hurt it.

use those towels because they tough, and seem to soaked up things well, so If I did have a leak, wouldn't have to worry much. No leaks so far though =)


----------



## sebar

Quote: Originally Posted by SmurfsRCool

"Looks so compact - yet so clean at the same time.. I do like! "

Thanks, this was the best pic of the RES/Pump. I have changed out the videocard for a GTX 670FTW.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> It a hospital Towel, My aunt works in a hospital, so she brings us them. Video card had no power so don't think the towel will hurt it.
> use those towels because they tough, and seem to soaked up things well, so If I did have a leak, wouldn't have to worry much. No leaks so far though =)


Actually I wasn't saying because of how static it might be but because kitchen roll is easy to place, soaks stuff better and it kind of spreads. That plus it being white makes it much easier to actually see if a tiny drop leaked (when using colored liquid). With kitchen roll you could even wrap bits around the fittings so you can know exactly where the leaks are coming from.
But really I can't see any reason why it'd leak.


----------



## _Killswitch_

It's been up running for a few hours now, haven't seen a drop yet. White inside case, hard to miss a Red color.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Ceadderman, you are such a troublemaker. Such a Mister Knowitall.
> 
> 
> 
> haha, It amazing all the information you can find on Google.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's because he's always drinking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or this.
Click to expand...

I'm old enough that it comes honestly and without Google.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Google knows more then all of my teachers ever combined!
> 
> 
> 
> And they "watch" you more than any of your teachers combined lol
Click to expand...

Truth, but then Google would not be Google and search engines would still be in the dark ages if they didn't watch you. So there're benefits to it and the trade off.







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I had no choice but to put a fillport. My top radiator is really close to the top of my reservoir. The easiest way to fill the reservoir was to add a fillport.


Wow, that is a tight fit. Great job.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Just want to check I have wired the pump right?


A little late but, yup .









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i never really understood how do you guys mount those Tube reservoirs (without modding), could anyone explain me?
> 
> 
> 
> Tube res are easy to mount and can usually be done witout modding. You can get mounts to attach the tube to a 120 fan mount and EK make a nice uni-holders that can be used to mount the res just about anywhere. Here is my BP res on a Swiftech pump. the pump is mounted to the floor. This is small enough that I did not need to support the res but I did have it set up to have a single res mount attached to the bottom fan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...



Set up the same way.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Did a quick leek check, all working fine.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> It a hospital Towel, My aunt works in a hospital, so she brings us them. Video card had no power so don't think the towel will hurt it.
> 
> use those towels because they tough, and seem to soaked up things well, so If I did have a leak, wouldn't have to worry much. No leaks so far though =)


Ah the benefits of family working in the Health Care world. We used to get all kinds of goodies when my folks worked in the VA hospital an Ma worked at the County General.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I fill my tube res with a 60cc syringe I got from work. Works pretty good...


----------



## wermad

I use a squeeze bottle


----------



## kpforce1

I always get my magical $6 a can "Canned Air" from work







lol.... I'll never pay for that stuff again... talk about surprise buttsecks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I fill my tube res with a 60cc syringe I got from work. Works pretty good...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I use a squeeze bottle


I use a Pyrex 3 cup measure and a funnel. Kitchen appliances FTW!









~Ceadder


----------



## hammerforged

I normally just sip a little mayhems then some distilled, swish it around a little bit then spit it into the res. The new Aurora stuff makes me feel funny afterwards though. For some reason I cant stop









For real though, just a funnel with some tubing and a barb on the end that I thread into the res


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I use a squeeze bottle


This^^

I did go thru a stage of hooking up a jingway to the drainport and run it of a 12v battery to fill loops....until the day of the missing blanking plate.

3ltrs of DI later and im looking at a jet washer of a rig....


----------



## NostraD

Yeah yeah Cead, enough with the knowledge talk - I wanna see some pics of those red jewels!

And btw, me being a nurse has NOTHING to do with the fact that I am currently cooling my folding rig with a submersible pond pump sitting in a 700cc suction canister, connected to 1/4" medical suction tubing....purely coincidence! Also, I would NEVER steal from my employer - all those items were readily available on eBay!








Edit: my XSPC X20 Single bay pump/res combo quit on me - I already had a pond pump handy as we have a Koi pond out front and it was an extra. The other stuff just provided for a cheap fix ATM.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Yeah yeah Cead, enough with the knowledge talk - I wanna see some pics of those red jewels!
> 
> And btw, me being a nurse has NOTHING to do with the fact that I am currently cooling my folding rig with a submersible pond pump sitting in a 700cc suction canister, connected to 1/4" medical suction tubing....purely coincidence! Also, I would NEVER steal from my employer - all those items were readily available on eBay!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: my XSPC X20 Single bay pump/res combo quit on me - I already had a pond pump handy as we have a Koi pond out front and it was an extra. The other stuff just provided for a cheap fix ATM.










the goodies that we got were items that normally get thrown out when they're replaced. Of course this was in the 70s' and 80s' when the Docs spoiled the kids.of hospital staff.







lol

Things are goin pretty smoothly atm with 3 more upcoming sales so I may be picking up the next 6 fittings before the end of the month besides the 6 that are on the way.









~Ceadder


----------



## snapsimo

My rig I built awhile ago in a CM Stacker 832. Not much room in ther for all this stuff









Swiftech H20-220 in the front as well.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Tube res are eary to mount and can usually be done witout modding. You can get mounts to attach the tube to a 120 fan mount and EK make a nice uni-holders that can be used to mount the res just about anywhere. Here is my BP res on a Swiftech pump. the pump is mounted to the floor. This is small enough that I did not need to support the res but I did have it set up to have a single res mount attached to the bottom fan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What case is this?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> What case is this?
> Jeffinslaw


Looks like a SilverStone PS07. The only other possibility is a Define Mini with some sort of inverted mobo tray flip which I highly doubt anybody has done yet.


----------



## Michalius

Silverstone PS07 I believe.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> What case is this?
> Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Looks like a SilverStone PS07. The only other possibility is a Define Mini with some sort of inverted mobo tray flip which I highly doubt anybody has done yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Silverstone PS07 I believe.


Yes, this is a Silverstone PS07.
Because I do not want to hide anything I made a windowed side panel out of a piece of plexi and some brushed metal contact paper


----------



## mandrix

Fill the res?


----------



## wermad

Man, this 35x is noisy on full power







. Need to get this pwm going


----------



## _REAPER_

Ok instead of doing major surgery I am just going to have my brother pop the rivets and pull out the entire drive bay and hot swap area of the HAF X. I will put plexi there below is a simple drawing on paint let me know what you guys think.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Man, this 35x is noisy on full power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Need to get this pwm going


Is it? I haven't filled my loop yet so I haven't fired mine up yet. It will be run by the AQ5 so at least there will be pwm control. I'm so used to the dual D5's on my other rig, they are pretty quiet running at setting 4 all the time.
I mounted mine on the Swiftech heatsink mount with one of the little Evercool fans and hoping the vibration will be minimal. How's yours for vibration and heat?

Are you up real late or real early? lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Is it? I haven't filled my loop yet so I haven't fired mine up yet. It will be run by the AQ5 so at least there will be pwm control. I'm so used to the dual D5's on my other rig, they are pretty quiet running at setting 4 all the time.
> I mounted mine on the Swiftech heatsink mount with one of the little Evercool fans and hoping the vibration will be minimal. How's yours for vibration and heat?
> Are you up real late or real early? lol.


Its on the Koolance bracket with a few foam pads on the bracket. Is hot; hotter than 355. I'm going to find some thick foam to add to the bracket. That should help with some of the noise.

Before the raging 35x fans pounce on my post(s), I know I have yet to tap into the pumps true potential with pwm running 40-50%. I'm still not happy with my cpu temps, so it'll be a while before I setup the pwm.

edit: btw, I have the bottom rad pulling air directly below the 35x.


----------



## steelkevin

Can't find a second hand p55 1156 mother board (at least not locally) so I won't be using my two 280mm rads to OverClock my CPU.
So I did some research on Universal GPU Blocks since my 560 Ti sucks and can't get a full cover one.
Found another card with the same PCB as my PNY:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Anyway, it'd cost me between 80 and 100€ to get a Universal Block on my card (same price as a real block...).

I've only got 90€ for which ever upgrade I make and I need to make one because I can't stand the idea of having watercooled and yet not getting the benefit of it (GPU is still loud since only the CPU is under water and I can't OC the CPU because my mobo is rubbish).

Anyway, what would you lot do if you were me ?

Off topic: Oh and in the process I somehow ended up hearing coil whine and learning what it was. I never though I'd be so surprise/amazed by what hardware can do.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I've only got 90€ for which ever upgrade I make and I need to make one because I can't stand the idea of having watercooled and yet not getting the benefit of it (GPU is still loud since only the CPU is under water and I can't OC the CPU because my mobo is rubbish).
> *Anyway, what would you lot do if you were me ?*


More than one will agree with me when I say this; 90€ per upgrade is an incredibly tight budget if you want to water cool and overclock more than 30%...
If i was you, I would save 2x90€ (180€) and get a more decent motherboard.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its on the Koolance bracket with a few foam pads on the bracket. Is hot; hotter than 355. I'm going to find some thick foam to add to the bracket. That should help with some of the noise.
> Before the raging 35x fans pounce on my post(s), I know I have yet to tap into the pumps true potential with pwm running 40-50%. I'm still not happy with my cpu temps, so it'll be a while before I setup the pwm.
> edit: btw, I have the bottom rad pulling air directly below the 35x.


OK. Thanks. I don't have experience with any kind of DDC pump so this will be a first time thing. I selected the 35x mainly to play nice with the AQ5 (and because I never had one). Guess I'll see when I get the loop finished.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> More than one will agree with me when I say this; 90€ per upgrade is an incredibly tight budget if you want to water cool and overclock more than 30%...
> If i was you, I would save 2x90€ (180€) and get a more decent motherboard.


My entire loop (see Water Cooling Loop for my "Current rig" in my signature below) cost me exactly 195€.
I'm looking for a second hand motherboard and not a brand new one. I wouldn't ever put 180€ in a second hand or brand new motherboard for my i7-860 that I will be changing as soon as I can. Actually even for my next CPU I won't spend 180€ on the mother board (well lets just say I won't go above 180€), there are many good options that don't require spending an awful lot of cash like the Extreme 4, GD55, P8Z77-v etc...
I don't want to go crazy on OCing right now but it drives me crazy to have two 280 rads and do nothing with them.

With 180€ I'd sell my 560 Ti for 80€ or something, save up a bit more, get a 7870 and a waterblock.

Thanks though


----------



## kcuestag

How big of an upgrade is going to a D5 (With EK v2 TOP) coming from an EK DCP 4.0?

One of my Battlefield 3 clan mates has a spare D5 with EK TOP v2 laying around and I was able to get it off him for just $40 shipped, it has no warranty but I don't have to pay him until I actually test the pump.









Is it a big upgrade? I am not worried about my current pump's water flow with CPU + 2x GPU's (It's not ideal but it's more than fine), but more about the noise this pump does, I really hope the D5 is quieter, is it?


----------



## EnticingSausage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How big of an upgrade is going to a D5 (With EK v2 TOP) coming from an EK DCP 4.0?
> One of my Battlefield 3 clan mates has a spare D5 with EK TOP v2 laying around and I was able to get it off him for just $40 shipped, it has no warranty but I don't have to pay him until I actually test the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it a big upgrade? I am not worried about my current pump's water flow with CPU + 2x GPU's (It's not ideal but it's more than fine), but more about the noise this pump does, I really hope the D5 is quieter, is it?


Temps probably won't change but D5's last forever and pretty reliable. Is it a vario? Even on full they're pretty quiet.


----------



## ChaosAD

A few more tweaks to finally finish my rebuild. Anyone could help me with this plz http://www.overclock.net/t/1315363/need-a-3-5-fan-controller


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Temps probably won't change but D5's last forever and pretty reliable. Is it a vario? Even on full they're pretty quiet.


I have no idea if it's a vario or not, I know it has a regulator in the back with 5 levels if I remember correctly from what he told me yesterday, here is a picture of it with the top already mounted:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vuxg1kwta1gshe5/IMG_20121012_193034.jpg

I am not expecting any temperature improvement, all I want is a quieter pump than my current EK DCP 4.0 which is way too loud.


----------



## chino1974

Guys I've never used EK products before so I don't know anything really about them and need help here. I am starting a new project build and am using a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5 with a Phenom II 1090t until I can get a better AMD cpu that is worth upgrading to. I will be watercooling the whole system cpu and 1 gpu. I have a 240mm rad and a 120mm rad plus I will be getting an XSPC dualbay res and pump combofrom a friend. My question is I have a EK Supreme HF version 4 copper and acrylic block. Are those blocks any good? I know it's an older version because the desig ecthed into the acrylic is an older looking EK logo and I matched it online by that. Just wondering if those blocks are any good or should I buy a XSPC Raystorm cpu block? If I keep this block the money I save from it can go elsewhere in the build. The block is in great shape you can see into the block through the top and it looks nice and clean. And the copper bottom looks brand new no tarnishing at all. Please can someone who knows these products give me an idea if I have adecent block?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

^^^

Yep, you have a pretty good cpu block on your hands already. No need to change it out.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> More than one will agree with me when I say this; 90€ per upgrade is an incredibly tight budget if you want to water cool and overclock more than 30%...
> If i was you, I would save 2x90€ (180€) and get a more decent motherboard.


^This
Don't let that money burn a hole in your pocket. Hang on to it and add too it as you can. You'll be so glad you did.


----------



## EnticingSausage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I have no idea if it's a vario or not, I know it has a regulator in the back with 5 levels if I remember correctly from what he told me yesterday, here is a picture of it with the top already mounted:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/vuxg1kwta1gshe5/IMG_20121012_193034.jpg
> I am not expecting any temperature improvement, all I want is a quieter pump than my current EK DCP 4.0 which is way too loud.


Yeah that's a vario, I run it around speed 2/3. It should be very quiet.


----------



## NewHighScore

I can't even hear my vario at full speed. Lucky for me I have a hearing loss


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Yeah that's a vario, I run it around speed 2/3. It should be very quiet.


Thanks! What's the flow at Speed 3?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> ^This
> Don't let that money burn a hole in your pocket. Hang on to it and add too it as you can. You'll be so glad you did.


What ? 50, 80 or 200€ isn't the question. I currently have a loop (see my signature for more details about it) that other than taking up space and adding weight to my rig doesn't do much. That's because I've still got my mATX Dell board which won't allow for the slightest Over Clocking and because my GPU was louder than my CPU so noise level hasn't changed all that much.
I wouldn't get a brand new 2010 board even if they were still being sold (since the 1156 socket there's been 1366, sandy, 2011, ivy and soon there'll be Haswell, that'd be like watercooling a HD4850). I was looking into second hand but there isn't a single local person selling a 1156 P55 board (well there is a guy with a P7P55D but he's selling a whole rig for 280€ in which it's included so that doesn't really count).

I'm sorry but I really can't see how throwing 180€ in a P55 board would be wise.


----------



## Tarnix

I didn't mean to start a parts war, I just told you what *I* would do, which was one of your questions, and the only one I could answer.


----------



## EnticingSausage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks! What's the flow at Speed 3?


Couldn't tell you mate, but there was no temp difference for me between speed 2 and speed 5. I was only running a cpu and gpu and 1 360 rad, but I really doubt you'll need to go above speed 3.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Does anyone have some pictures of their MVE? Getting ready to change my loop and I'm looking for some inspiration

Sent from my DROID BIONIC (terrible phone) using Tapatalk 2


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I didn't mean to start a parts war, I just told you what *I* would do, which was one of your questions, and the only one I could answer.


You're right. I'm sorry.

Thanks for answering my question and trying to help out







.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Temps probably won't change but D5's last forever and pretty reliable. Is it a vario? Even on full they're pretty quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea if it's a vario or not, I know it has a regulator in the back with 5 levels if I remember correctly from what he told me yesterday, here is a picture of it with the top already mounted:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/vuxg1kwta1gshe5/IMG_20121012_193034.jpg
> 
> I am not expecting any temperature improvement, all I want is a quieter pump than my current EK DCP 4.0 which is way too loud.
Click to expand...

I just changed my 4.0 out for a D5, night and day difference in sound







I'm running at 3, just keep it above 2 and then tune it to the quietest setting.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Temps probably won't change but D5's last forever and pretty reliable. Is it a vario? Even on full they're pretty quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea if it's a vario or not, I know it has a regulator in the back with 5 levels if I remember correctly from what he told me yesterday, here is a picture of it with the top already mounted:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/vuxg1kwta1gshe5/IMG_20121012_193034.jpg
> 
> I am not expecting any temperature improvement, all I want is a quieter pump than my current EK DCP 4.0 which is way too loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just changed my 4.0 out for a D5, night and day difference in sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running at 3, just keep it above 2 and then tune it to the quietest setting.
Click to expand...

Thank you, main reason for this upgrade is the noise, the EK DCP 4.0 is way too loud.

Enviado desde mi Samsung Galaxy SIII usando Tapatalk 2.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Temps probably won't change but D5's last forever and pretty reliable. Is it a vario? Even on full they're pretty quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea if it's a vario or not, I know it has a regulator in the back with 5 levels if I remember correctly from what he told me yesterday, here is a picture of it with the top already mounted:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/vuxg1kwta1gshe5/IMG_20121012_193034.jpg
> 
> I am not expecting any temperature improvement, all I want is a quieter pump than my current EK DCP 4.0 which is way too loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just changed my 4.0 out for a D5, night and day difference in sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running at 3, just keep it above 2 and then tune it to the quietest setting.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you, main reason for this upgrade is the noise, the EK DCP 4.0 is way too loud.
> 
> Enviado desde mi Samsung Galaxy SIII usando Tapatalk 2.
Click to expand...

Same here, I had my 4.0 undervolted too


----------



## kcuestag

If you had to compare the noise of the EK DCP 4.0 at full speed against the D5 Vario with TOP at 4-5 speed (I'll probably run it at 3-4 though), which one is louder?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> If you had to compare the noise of the EK DCP 4.0 at full speed against the D5 Vario with TOP at 4-5 speed (I'll probably run it at 3-4 though), which one is louder?


I have the new XSPC black D5 res combo, but I would say the 4.0 is at least twice as loud as my D5 running at 3. With the D5 at setting 5, the 4.0 is still louder. The niose the D5 makes is more pleasant, more of a hum from the motor, the 4.0 is all pump noise.

If you want really quiet my XSPC X20 750's or both way more quiet. I'm going to try running them in series to see how they work out.


----------



## ChaosAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> If you had to compare the noise of the EK DCP 4.0 at full speed against the D5 Vario with TOP at 4-5 speed (I'll probably run it at 3-4 though), which one is louder?


I run a D5 vario for more than 5 years paired with an EK Top. Never had a single issue. Atm i run it at 4 and you cant hear it over my 3xAP15 rad fans. You have to touch the pump to see its working. If space is no issue its your best bet


----------



## B NEGATIVE

D5>everything else.
Except the PMP 500 maybe,that is a weapon of a pump.


----------



## Lazy Bear

I've stuck with DDCs because they are easy to fit in a drive bay along with a drive bay res.

Next build I'll probably switch to dual D5s, though. Is there a noticeable difference in performance and flowrate? I've not had experience with any pumps other than an MCP355 and two PMP 400s.


----------



## Noland

I would love to join the club, this is my first time doing a liquid cooling loop. I'm going to be upgrading my main pc components when I get the money but here's the only good picture I have.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I've stuck with DDCs because they are easy to fit in a drive bay along with a drive bay res.
> 
> Next build I'll probably switch to dual D5s, though. Is there a noticeable difference in performance and flowrate? I've not had experience with any pumps other than an MCP355 and two PMP 400s.


My DDC-1T are nice and quiet. Even with both of them on, I cannot hear them over the front fan. Although I can sometimes hear my RAID set writing and seeking which doesn't happen alot since storage is on the outside of the platters.







lol

Honestly I think a lot of the noise people hear from a DDC is due to not being decoupled well. But that's just my experience. When I tested these pumps they were crazy loud because I had them on the table with nothing under them. Once I put my setup on these foam packing strips they hardly made any noise at all. In fact when I did my flush and fill that was the first time I'd heard them since that time because I didn't have any fans on having used a spare PSU to power for Flush mode.









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> I run a D5 vario for more than 5 years paired with an EK Top. Never had a single issue. Atm i run it at 4 and you cant hear it over my 3xAP15 rad fans. You have to touch the pump to see its working. If space is no issue its your best bet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> D5>everything else.
> Except the PMP 500 maybe,that is a weapon of a pump.


Please tell me it is not much bigger than the EK DCP 4.0.









Here's my rig at the moment:



I can't fit a pump anywhere else so I really hope it fits where the current pump is at.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noland*
> 
> I would love to join the club, this is my first time doing a liquid cooling loop. I'm going to be upgrading my main pc components when I get the money but here's the only good picture I have.


Excellent loop!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Please tell me it is not much bigger than the EK DCP 4.0.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my rig at the moment:
> 
> 
> 
> I can't fit a pump anywhere else so I really hope it fits where the current pump is at.


In your case, I would go with a bay res/pump combo.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Ceadderman

Well being honest Kue could suspend either a DDC or a D5 from the Reservoir. That would get the pump off the Radiator. Heck he could do it with that Jingway pump too using the EK Pump/Reseroir setup too. Although it might be a tight fit where the Res is atm.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lazy Bear

I prefer the EK and XSPC dual tops, honestly.

Assuming that's a DDC top, which I am quite sure it is.


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*






Noob question. What is this a block for?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well being honest Kue could suspend either a DDC or a D5 from the Reservoir. That would get the pump off the Radiator. Heck he could do it with that Jingway pump too using the EK Pump/Reseroir setup too. Although it might be a tight fit where the Res is atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I don't mind having the pump on the rad, in fact I plan on having the D5 right where my current pump is, should be ok, I hope it fits.


----------



## kkorky

Mod delete plse-ty


----------



## kkorky

Aquastream xt Ultra =*NO NOISE* whatsoever


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Noob question. What is this a block for?


Is only a dual top, not a block =)

http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x2pump.aspx


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Noob question. What is this a block for?


It's a pump top for dual pump setup.
http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x2pump.aspx

I dream of having the white top version one day...


----------



## InsideJob

Ahhh I see now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Aquastream xt Ultra =*NOPOWAH* whatsoever


Fixed.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fixed.


Hmmm , i wasnt referring to power, but noise, as was the line of the convo









Some dont need MOREPOWAH as you so subtly put it lol- Leave that to Tim Allen & co









That having been said, i would gladly welcome your advice here:http://www.overclock.net/t/1315814/pump-dilema-need-help-please


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I don't mind having the pump on the rad, in fact I plan on having the D5 right where my current pump is, should be ok, I hope it fits.


Also keep in mind that $40 shipped is a great deal for the D5 pump and EK top.
I've just arranged to buy a second D5 Vario to add to my existing one, with an EK Dual top, and tube res for my upcoming build, and that setup will wind up costing me ten times that much!








The D5 pump and EK top combo you bought should fit just fine where your existing one is.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Also keep in mind that $40 shipped is a great deal for the D5 pump and EK top.
> I've just arranged to buy a second D5 Vario to add to my existing one, with an EK Dual top, and tube res for my upcoming build, and that setup will wind up costing me ten times that much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The D5 pump and EK top combo you bought should fit just fine where your existing one is.


Thanks! It is indeed an amazing ideal, I am really grateful for the price my clan mate asked, I know he could have easily asked double that.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks! It is indeed an amazing ideal, I am really grateful for the price my clan mate asked, I know he could have easily asked double that.


Hey can i join your clan, especially if such sweet deals are to be had?


----------



## Fuganater

$40 for pump and pump top???? Pump top alone is $40!


----------



## wermad

Found the source of my noise







Looks like a loose drive bay cover









Noise is down considerably. Added some more padding still. I'm thinking of hooking up my pump to my controller and just drop it to 40% there. I'll need to crimp on some female fan pins first


----------



## Hanoverfist

Received My My Rads from wermad today..







Immediately Sent one GTX 360 into Surgery.. Primed and Ready for Color..


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> $40 for pump and pump top???? Pump top alone is $40!


Yeah, I think I can even sell my EK DCP 4.0 for $40 easily here in Europe, free upgrade.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Received My My Rads from wermad today..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Immediately Sent one GTX 360 into Surgery.. Primed and Ready for Color..
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What color are you gon paint it/them.









~Ceadder :drink


----------



## NostraD

Just ordered my Monsoon fittings from PPCs! I'm so excited! Also 30' of Durelene from Sidewinder (on vacay







) and a bottle of Mayhem's blue dye. That should get my conversion started.









Also following a couple of HD5870s with blocks on eBay to go with my single...bidding takes such patience!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What color are you gon paint it/them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have it Narrowed Down to two shades of Orange. There is Omaha which I have and Shock Orange will be here Monday..







They will Match the Outside of the Case..

Omaha Orange


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Shock Orange/Electric Orange


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I have it Narrowed Down to two shades of Orange. There is Omaha which I have and Shock Orange will be here Monday..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They will Match the Outside of the Case..
> Omaha Orange
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shock Orange/Electric Orange
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The Omaha Orange looks nice.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> The Omaha Orange looks nice.


If it had a hair more Red tone to it .. I think it would be Perfect.. I titled the Build "Electric Orange" Trying to Stay True to That Name. lol










Build Log Here


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What color are you gon paint it/them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have it Narrowed Down to two shades of Orange. There is Omaha which I have and Shock Orange will be here Monday..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They will Match the Outside of the Case..
> 
> Omaha Orange
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shock Orange/Electric Orange
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

That Shock Orange looks awesome. That's the one I would go with.









~Ceadder


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I have it Narrowed Down to two shades of Orange. There is Omaha which I have and Shock Orange will be here Monday..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They will Match the Outside of the Case..
> Omaha Orange
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shock Orange/Electric Orange
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Shock orange for sure! Put up a poll


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That Shock Orange looks awesome. That's the one I would go with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Exactly.. That shade of Orange is Stunning!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> Shock orange for sure! Put up a poll


Once i get the Color.. I will shoot samples of Both then Put up some Pics With a Poll.. Since i will be selling this it would be Interesting to see the Results..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> Shock orange for sure! Put up a poll


OK I couldnt wait.. Color Poll is up HERE


----------



## Nexodus

My rig is my first, and it is ugly as **** compared to many of these







But I will post it anyway, hope that it is acceptable.

Also, sorry for having extremely large pictures.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nexodus*
> 
> My rig is my first, and it is ugly as **** compared to many of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I will post it anyway, hope that it is acceptable.
> Also, sorry for having extremely large pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good to me boss! You got some real horsepwoer there. Work on some cable management and youll be good to go. Keep reading this thread and trust me your gonna want more than just that closed loop Intel cooler


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno it's not that bad. It could be worse it could be an Alienwa... oh wait, you have one of those too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Nexodus

Thanks! And yeah, I've noticed a lot of fancy hidden cooling systems, planning to atleast make the rubber cords / wires to be see through, hopefully add some glow effect in the liquid









The Alienware I got for free, so I have no regrets having it next to my PC


----------



## ginger_nuts

Is there much a difference running GPU's in serial and parallel ? I will be running the Koolance PMP-500 pump.

I have a serial bridge (acetal) atm, but can get a plexi parallel, was thinking it would look better showing off Mayhems Pastel Blue coolant.

Or do I get an EX120 rad.? to go with my EX240+RX240.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noland*
> 
> I would love to join the club, this is my first time doing a liquid cooling loop. I'm going to be upgrading my main pc components when I get the money but here's the only good picture I have.


What RAD is that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What RAD is that?


Looks like Hardware labs to me.
Personal favorites of mine,I do love HWL.


----------



## socketus

Yah it looks like my unbranded HWL SR-1 480 which btw, is up for sale, I can't use it in the Azza 9000 ...


----------



## teamrushpntball

So another question for everyone. Now let me preface this with yes I know there is no real point in cooling my ram, but I want to anyway. It looks sweet and it will make me happy and smile to myself. So I have some of the Samsung Wunder Ram and was wanting to cool it. I know Bitspower and XSPC have "universal spreaders" that will attach to any ram. Will these universal spreaders work with a different brand's Ram Block? Namely I'd like to use Bitspower's spreader with the EK or Alphacool block.

I'm thinking they will, but that's just a guess, since it seems they are all designer for the smooth topped Dominator line and from the images I can find they all just have the pair of screws to mount to the blocks.


----------



## Sixtron

Mips @ Asus Maximus V Extreme


----------



## B NEGATIVE

MIPS are the best looking blocks ever,Watercool are a close second...

I want a M5E just so i can rock that block......


----------



## derickwm

That happens way too often for me. Always wanting to buy some more hardware just based off of the waterblocks available


----------



## Fuganater

Ya... I wish they made blocks for my Gigabyte X58A-OC...


----------



## kkorky

Try Finding a block for MSI boards


----------



## Willhemmens

My Maximus V Formula's top PCIE slot has died, getting bored of Asus reliability issues. Thinking about the Gigabyte Z77X-UP7 instead now, but need waterblocks!


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Yah it looks like my unbranded HWL SR-1 480 which btw, is up for sale, I can't use it in the Azza 9000 ...


why can't you use it in the azza 9000?
i plan on putting a XSPC RX480 in the top and
a RX360 in the bottom.
already made room in the bottom now just have to
make the 2 inch exra addtion to the top.
ordering the white acrylic sheet this week.
see pics









and a rough pic of what what it might look like after the
addition tothe top

oh and i know the pic says 1 to 1.5 but i think i'm going with 2"


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*
> 
> Mips @ Asus Maximus V Extreme
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why, oh why, can't I get a full cover block like this for my MSI 990FX board? *sigh


----------



## Sixtron

Depends every time on how many people ask for a block.
Sometimes it´s not worth to work hard and long in construction and production and sell only very few pieces.


----------



## _Killswitch_




----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*


Looks great! Is that Mayhems Aurora? If so are you running it in there full time?


----------



## Atham

For a first time watercooler, should I go with a kit, or choose parts separately? I will be WCing the Navy Beast Rig below. Both CPU and GPU.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> For a first time watercooler, should I go with a kit, or choose parts separately? I will be WCing the Navy Beast Rig below. Both CPU and GPU.


If money is not an issue I would go with a custom kit and choose everything separately to your liking. If you go with a kit you will most definitely want to upgrade a few of the components in the future and it will then become a waste. If you are on a strict budget a kit will do fine just may not look as cool!







Just my opinion though.

hth


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MIPS are the best looking blocks ever,
> I


Really wish they would use nice black screws though. The steel detracts a lot from the look IMO.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> For a first time watercooler, should I go with a kit, or choose parts separately? I will be WCing the Navy Beast Rig below. Both CPU and GPU.


Choose you parts separately, I am new to water cooling also and I looked at the kits for a while. They just don't look as nice as being able to choose what you want. I decided on choosing my parts because I did not like the bay reservoirs that come in the kits, I really like the look of the Bits Power tube res and based my system around that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> For a first time watercooler, should I go with a kit, or choose parts separately? I will be WCing the Navy Beast Rig below. Both CPU and GPU.


Consider a XSPC D5 kit,great pump,great rad and a solid bay res,the rest is just garnish that you will change many times but the core bits are good.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Color poll for a New Water Cooled Build is up *HERE* ... Put in your


----------



## HarZa

Here's my rig. Little bit copper pipe and little bit hose. Works like charm and is quiet enough in everyday use in living room.
Still needs cleaning but thats another story.


----------



## The-racer

What size of copper tubing did you use if i may ask?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The-racer*
> 
> What size of copper tubing did you use if i may ask?


Looks like 1/2". It's pretty beefy.









~Ceadder


----------



## HarZa

It's 12mm outer diameter pipe. That's somewhere nere 1/2 inch. We have metric system here so you do the math.


----------



## Sixtron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Really wish they would use nice black screws though. The steel detracts a lot from the look IMO.


I think it´s not a big thing to change screws by yourself or paint it black.


----------



## Noland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What RAD is that?


Both are the Black Ice SR1, one is a triple 120 and the other is a single 120. I was hoping to mod my case so I can fit another duel 120 where the Hard drive cage is but never really got around to it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HarZa*
> 
> It's 12mm outer diameter pipe. That's somewhere nere 1/2 inch. We have metric system here so you do the math.


1/2". It's actually a C-hairs difference but my SAE wrenches work just fine on 12mm Hex bolts when I need a second wrench to hold a Hex nut while unfastening 12mm bolt with socket wrench when I cannot find my 12mm wrench or the space is too small to fit it in there.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*
> 
> I think it´s not a big thing to change screws by yourself or paint it black.


What I do when fan wires or screws are grey and the fan is black is put some sharpy on them.
It's easy, quick and free.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 1/2". It's actually a C-hairs difference but my SAE wrenches work just fine on 12mm Hex bolts when I need a second wrench to hold a Hex nut while unfastening 12mm bolt with socket wrench when I cannot find my 12mm wrench or the space is too small to fit it in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Whole different ballgame with tubing,its the right size or it leaks.


----------



## _REAPER_

Parts started to come in. I know there is alot of debate on the best tubes to use, I am thinking of utilizing the Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid Coolant White Color - 32oz Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid Coolant White Color - 32oz for my fluid. I can see where recently people have said not to use XSPC. I have to get my tubes from Frozencpu so it is a challenge to get anything other than that. Please make recommendations


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I can see where recently people have said not to use XSPC. I have to get my tubes from Frozencpu so it is a challenge to get anything other than that. Please make recommendations
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I am Assuming you want Clear Tubing Right?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I am Assuming you want Clear Tubing Right?


yeah sorry about that (CLEAR TUBING)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> yeah sorry about that (CLEAR TUBING)


If you have to buy from Frozen then Maybe Tygon Plasticizer Free. Spendy though.. or Masterkleer..cheaper... Too Bad about having to use Frozen.. I would suggest Durelene from Sidewinder..

You couldnt pay me to buy Primochill.. even though it is supposedly fixed. No way..


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Parts started to come in. I know there is alot of debate on the best tubes to use, I am thinking of utilizing the Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid Coolant White Color - 32oz Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid Coolant White Color - 32oz for my fluid. I can see where recently people have said not to use XSPC. I have to get my tubes from Frozencpu so it is a challenge to get anything other than that. Please make recommendations


That is one beautiful pump/res combo.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Parts started to come in. I know there is alot of debate on the best tubes to use, I am thinking of utilizing the Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid Coolant White Color - 32oz Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid Coolant White Color - 32oz for my fluid. I can see where recently people have said not to use XSPC. I have to get my tubes from Frozencpu so it is a challenge to get anything other than that. Please make recommendations
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip


As was mentioned Masterkleer is good stuff. Been running it for a while with no issues.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> why can't you use it in the azza 9000?
> i plan on putting a XSPC RX480 in the top and
> a RX360 in the bottom.
> already made room in the bottom now just have to
> make the 2 inch exra addtion to the top.
> ordering the white acrylic sheet this week.
> see pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a rough pic of what what it might look like after the
> addition tothe top
> 
> oh and i know the pic says 1 to 1.5 but i think i'm going with 2"


I'm not extending my case top, apparently like you plan to do so. In reverse atx setup on the Azza 9000, there is only 50mm of space before a 54mm sr-1 480 rad hits the expansion slots.
So I switched to a RX360 and it fits fine. I've been waiting to see how you were going to make room for your standing on end PSU.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Am i the only one who doesnt like that Azza case?

Damn,its sooo fugly......i would rather have a HAF.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Am i the only one who doesnt like that Azza case?
> Damn,its sooo fugly......i would rather have a HAF.


I'd rather not have either.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What color are you gon paint it/them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink


windows can be cut, modded ya know ;p
at the time I bought it, the switch was everyone's favorite - i saw something new and shiny, thats all.

I ended up building my first wc in a switch for a buddy - that's a bee-yut of a case.

Haf - I can't stand their military ridges. That and corsair - they all look so much alike. But to each his own. Long as youre stuffing wc parts in em, its all good


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd rather not have either.


This.

They're both ugly as hell.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> This.
> They're both ugly as hell.


YUP!


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd rather not have either.


Agreed.. Personally, I prefer the simple cases like Lian Li and Corsair Obsidian Series.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What color are you gon paint it/them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> windows can be cut, modded ya know ;p
> at the time I bought it, the switch was everyone's favorite - i saw something new and shiny, thats all.
> 
> I ended up building my first wc in a switch for a buddy - that's a bee-yut of a case.
> 
> Haf - I can't stand their military ridges. That and corsair - they all look so much alike. But to each his own. Long as youre stuffing wc parts in em, its all good
Click to expand...

That's funny. HAF doesn't look anything like a Corsair case.







.

Corsair cases look more like Llian-li cases than HAF cases imho.

But as old as 932 is it was a beautiful case when it first launched and I thought that it was set up better than the 922 and many other cases of other manufacture at that time. Not that I only wanted my 932, but I have to say for what it is and that it allowed me to build my 1st loop without modding it, it kicks azz. You can say that it looks ugly that's fine, that's your opinion. But I like it and can do a helluva lot to it including change the Face so it's not one that only a mother could love.









~Ceadder


----------



## NASzi

Mayhems Red Pastel


----------



## socketus

What I meant was that corsairs look like other Corsairs and the Haf line looks like other Hafs. I was very tempted by both lines, however ... my first corsair build was a 400r, I really liked its looks.
I like the 800d/obsidian line; I really like the implementation of the retainer thumbscrews, the 600t side panel latches - its just that there are a lot of Corsair cases being shown on OCN. Same with the Haf line - when I first started looking, it was gonna be the Haf 942. But like classic rock stations that have overplayed the classic titles, the scene is flooded with Haf cases.

Having said that, my main case is the Silverstone TJ-04 with the weird h/d cage. Beautiful front aluminium panel, nice side window, and its a midtower. Not a popular case at all. But its a step up from the Cougar evolution case I had - while it had all of the features now common - top sata hot swap bay, flexible hd trays mounted sideways and removeable, filtered intakes bottom and front, a bunch of cable mgmt holes, an 8 pin hole, with a sidewindow and an optional fan mount, but it was a bit plasticy and the top bay didn't work, not even after an RMA.

THe case I'd really like to build in is that new Merlin SM8 by CL, but i'm waiting to see how Mandrix's build goes .... the Azza - yah, a mistake to buy. But I'll finish it. maybe .. waiting to see LuckyNumber13's build in his Azza.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Cases, are hard choices, My favorite's are to much for my little pockets.

Favorite cases,
Silverstone TJ-07/11
Case labs
Switch 810.

I own the switch 810, and out of the bunch it was best for my wallet...maybe one of these days I'll own one of the others but I don't see it happening anytime soon.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Cases, are hard choices, My favorite's are to much for my little pockets.
> Favorite cases,
> Silverstone TJ-07/11
> Case labs
> Switch 810.
> I own the switch 810, and out of the bunch it was best for my wallet...maybe one of these days I'll own one of the others but I don't see it happening anytime soon.


I'm right there with you. I have the Switch 810 as it was the least expensive of my choices at the time.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> 
> Mayhems Red Pastel


Now thats a HOT ! coolermaster build ! luving that theme, great looking stuff








And you leave all the cages in, and your graphics aren't even on water - that is TIGHT !









Great photography too ;-)


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Now thats a HOT ! coolermaster build ! luving that theme, great looking stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you leave all the cages in, and your graphics aren't even on water - that is TIGHT !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great photography too ;-)


Thank you very much


----------



## wermad

Love the Genesis 9000. Only downer is the small window and thin rad support (literally) on top.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Cases, are hard choices, My favorite's are to much for my little pockets.
> 
> Favorite cases,
> Silverstone TJ-07/11
> Case labs
> Switch 810.
> 
> I own the switch 810, and out of the bunch it was best for my wallet...maybe one of these days I'll own one of the others but I don't see it happening anytime soon.


Hey I own 2/3 of those


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hey I own 2/3 of those


Your not the only one now


----------



## soul801

Hey guys, just finished my wife's computer.

Also I have a youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/soul801?feature=results_main if you want to see more of my builds.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Cases, are hard choices, My favorite's are to much for my little pockets.
> Favorite cases,
> Silverstone TJ-07/11
> Case labs
> Switch 810.
> I own the switch 810, and out of the bunch it was best for my wallet...maybe one of these days I'll own one of the others but I don't see it happening anytime soon.


TJ-11 is the casegsm for me, one day when my system outdated imma make one rig with this case
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Mayhems Red Pastel


Great looking rig bud!
had the enforcer too, still laying around in the cabinet since I moved to switch 810 for watercooling space
I dont have enough guts to drill the enforcer like you do to mount the rad


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> What I meant was that corsairs look like other Corsairs and the Haf line looks like other Hafs. I was very tempted by both lines, however ... my first corsair build was a 400r, I really liked its looks.
> I like the 800d/obsidian line; I really like the implementation of the retainer thumbscrews, the 600t side panel latches - its just that there are a lot of Corsair cases being shown on OCN. Same with the Haf line - when I first started looking, it was gonna be the Haf 942. But like classic rock stations that have overplayed the classic titles, the scene is flooded with Haf cases.
> Having said that, my main case is the Silverstone TJ-04 with the weird h/d cage. Beautiful front aluminium panel, nice side window, and its a midtower. Not a popular case at all. But its a step up from the Cougar evolution case I had - while it had all of the features now common - top sata hot swap bay, flexible hd trays mounted sideways and removeable, filtered intakes bottom and front, a bunch of cable mgmt holes, an 8 pin hole, with a sidewindow and an optional fan mount, but it was a bit plasticy and the top bay didn't work, not even after an RMA.
> THe case I'd really like to build in is that new Merlin SM8 by CL, but i'm waiting to see how Mandrix's build goes .... the Azza - yah, a mistake to buy. But I'll finish it. maybe .. waiting to see LuckyNumber13's build in his Azza.


Thanks for the pressure.








I think the Switch is the prettiest case I've had, and it was easy to mod. My HAF 922 is a heavy duty thing that withstood being constantly taken apart, but is now retired.The SM8 is a more utilitarian design, but very modular and easy to work with. How it will turn out in the long run is anyone's guess, but I've been thinking of ways I could add some "dress" to it. Only thing is my amateurish photography skills don't do the matte white finish any justice and is just large enough to make staging lighting for pics difficult (for me, anyway) as it always wants to pick up any yellow light and reflect it back.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hey I own 2/3 of those


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Your not the only one now


These guys







Nice score on that M8 Fuga.


----------



## leylek

i am thinking of a watercooling system with the radiator out of the building. i will just pass the tubes through the window and put the radiator to balcony. i think specially at winter i can get really nice temps but i wonder is there any bad results of this. moustire on tubes or anything else?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leylek*
> 
> i am thinking of a watercooling system with the radiator out of the building. i will just pass the tubes through the window and put the radiator to balcony. i think specially at winter i can get really nice temps but i wonder is there any bad results of this. moustire on tubes or anything else?


Condensation will be your biggest enemy for sure plus the long tubing lines you will have to run from the way it sounds. I personally wouldnt want to worry about the water dripping off the tubes onto my other components. Just turn down the heat and bundle up


----------



## leylek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Condensation will be your biggest enemy for sure plus the long tubing lines you will have to run from the way it sounds. I personally wouldnt want to worry about the water dripping off the tubes onto my other components. Just turn down the heat and buddle up


thanks. looks too risky. if anyone find a way to get rid of the condensation thing let me know.


----------



## Eric335

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leylek*
> 
> i am thinking of a watercooling system with the radiator out of the building. i will just pass the tubes through the window and put the radiator to balcony. i think specially at winter i can get really nice temps but i wonder is there any bad results of this. moustire on tubes or anything else?


Probably only worth it for suicide runs. Im not 100% sure, but with lines as long as those, youll need a strong pump.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Just turn down the heat and buddle up


I use my computer as a space heater in the winter. Turn the overclock up a tad, run [email protected] overnight, and it keeps my room fairly comfortable.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leylek*
> 
> i am thinking of a watercooling system with the radiator out of the building. i will just pass the tubes through the window and put the radiator to balcony. i think specially at winter i can get really nice temps but i wonder is there any bad results of this. moustire on tubes or anything else?


Please don't do this, it sounds incredibly impractical. You'll need multiple powerful pumps, a TON of tubing, and you'd have to worry about condensation and the outside world having a negative effect on your parts. How would you run the fan wires through to your case, as well? It just seems like it would not work out very well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Just turn down the heat and buddle up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my computer as a space heater in the winter. Turn the overclock up a tad, run [email protected] overnight, and it keeps my room fairly comfortable.
Click to expand...

Two Phenom II x6 Folding rigs keep the room warm with no problem/oc'ing at all yet. In fact current temp is 13c out with the window open and my system is running 24/7 under Load at 41c with fans currently at 3/4 speed. Makes me glad that the new owners fit new double pane windows at the end of last winter.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *leylek*
> 
> i am thinking of a watercooling system with the radiator out of the building. i will just pass the tubes through the window and put the radiator to balcony. i think specially at winter i can get really nice temps but i wonder is there any bad results of this. moustire on tubes or anything else?
> 
> 
> 
> Please don't do this, it sounds incredibly impractical. You'll need multiple powerful pumps, a TON of tubing, and you'd have to worry about condensation and the outside world having a negative effect on your parts. How would you run the fan wires through to your case, as well? It just seems like it would not work out very well.
Click to expand...

It's been done before by other OCN members worked fairly well. I don't remember if they ran one or multiple pumps but it has been done before. Some people run their Radiator kit under their house. Hell if I weren't in an apartment I might actually consider doing either. I think one gent ran his kit outside when he was home but pulled it in when he was away for extended periods of time.









But yeah, OCN been there done that.







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USPS Track and Confirm*
> Your Label Number
> 
> Service
> 
> #####################
> Priority Mail®
> 
> Depart USPS Sort Facility
> 
> October 14, 2012
> 
> PORTLAND, OR 97218
> 
> Expected Delivery By:
> October 15, 2012
> 
> Delivery Confirmation™
> 
> ________________
> 
> Processed through USPS Sort Facility
> 
> October 14, 2012, 2:12 am
> 
> PORTLAND, OR 97218
> ________________
> Electronic Shipping Info Received
> 
> October 13, 2012
> 
> Processed at USPS Origin Sort Facility
> 
> October 12, 2012, 8:18 pm
> 
> OKLAHOMA CITY, OK 73107
> ________________
> 
> Dispatched to Sort Facility
> 
> October 12, 2012, 4:21 pm
> 
> HARRAH, OK 73045
> _________________
> Acceptance
> October 12, 2012, 4:15 pm
> HARRAH, OK 73045










My new fittins will be here today hopefully!!!









so now mebbes someonez baiz mai EKs' mebbe?









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I personally prefer fully contained systems. Still, as Ceadder said its definitely been done before...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leylek*
> 
> i am thinking of a watercooling system with the radiator out of the building. i will just pass the tubes through the window and put the radiator to balcony. i think specially at winter i can get really nice temps but i wonder is there any bad results of this. moustire on tubes or anything else?


When done right, it's awesome.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hey I own 2/3 of those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Your not the only one now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> These guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice score on that M8 Fuga.
Click to expand...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> When done right, it's awesome.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The things people will do for their temps.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Please don't do this, it sounds incredibly impractical. You'll need multiple powerful pumps, a TON of tubing, and you'd have to worry about condensation and the outside world having a negative effect on your parts. How would you run the fan wires through to your case, as well? It just seems like it would not work out very well.


.
Rather than Rads,just run a GeoLoop,one long length of pipe running around the garden underground,coupled to an Iwaki and you are good to go...
Im not a fan of external setups,it goes in the case or not at all.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's been done before by other OCN members worked fairly well. I don't remember if they ran one or multiple pumps but it has been done before. Some people run their Radiator kit under their house. Hell if I weren't in an apartment I might actually consider doing either. I think one gent ran his kit outside when he was home but pulled it in when he was away for extended periods of time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, OCN been there done that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


We'll see how well the external setup works in my scenario.... my watercool 420 will be 6-8 feet away from my Force1 project (through a wall in the next room). I have dual DDC type 35x pumps.







Should be fine i would think. I'll find out thats for sure lol


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> The things people will do for their temps.


^^^^


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> ^^^^


While still very sexy it just doesn't compare to drilling holes through your tile flooring and crawling underneath the foundation of your house.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> When done right, it's awesome.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The things people will do for their temps.
Click to expand...

"Don't try this at home.







"

Ahahahahaha!!!

Should have edited out the crawl sequence and added a TEMPS sequence to inform the viewers. Otherwise not bad at all. Couln't hardly hear those fans.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> While still very sexy it just doesn't compare to drilling holes through your tile flooring and crawling underneath the foundation of your house.


Yea for sure, no comparision.

One is just hardcore cooling, the other.. is insanity


----------



## NostraD

I went from a single 3x120 and added 1x12O and now added a 2x120 for 3 rads total - I haven't seen any change in temps. Is this normal?
My Domino rig in my sig (plus the 2 extra rads). My temps are ok, I was really just seeing if I could lower load temps on the GPU.
CPU Temps: 9-14c idle (just what my FX chip reads, I'm sure this isn't accurate).
44-45c P95.
GPU Temps: 39-40 idle
60-61 during Furmark
As I said, my temps are good, just thought they might drop a degree or two with added rads. Now I'm thinking I should just get rid of the extra rads??


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I went from a single 3x120 and added 1x12O and now added a 2x120 for 3 rads total - I haven't seen any change in temps. Is this normal?
> My Domino rig in my sig (plus the 2 extra rads). My temps are ok, I was really just seeing if I could lower load temps on the GPU.
> CPU Temps: 9-14c idle (just what my FX chip reads, I'm sure this isn't accurate).
> 44-45c P95.
> GPU Temps: 39-40 idle
> 60-61 during Furmark
> As I said, my temps are good, just thought they might drop a degree or two with added rads. Now I'm thinking I should just get rid of the extra rads??


Whats the difference between your water temp and your air temperature. The water can only get so cool if your just using radiators.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Whats the difference between your water temp and your air temperature. The water can only get so cool if your just using radiators.


My ambient temp is maintained 25-26c (77-78F).
Edit: CPU load temp: 45c. GPU load temp: 61c


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's been done before by other OCN members worked fairly well. I don't remember if they ran one or multiple pumps but it has been done before. Some people run their Radiator kit under their house. Hell if I weren't in an apartment I might actually consider doing either. I think one gent ran his kit outside when he was home but pulled it in when he was away for extended periods of time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, OCN been there done that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> We'll see how well the external setup works in my scenario.... my watercool 420 will be 6-8 feet away from my Force1 project (through a wall in the next room). *I have dual DDC type 35x pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be fine i would think.* _*I'll find out thats for sure_ lol
Click to expand...

For sure. One way to find out is to remove one pump(electrically) from the loop and see if it affects your temps. If it doesn't then I would figure out how many passes your Radiator(s) has/have and multiply the length by the passes and figure out how long your tubing requirements are. If it is longer than the loop is(including Radiator passes) then you may need to get another pump to take up slack.

If the length of tubing comes in shorter than the length of your loop the 2nd pump should be able to handle the workload I imagine.









*Agreed.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> While still very sexy it just doesn't compare to drilling holes through your tile flooring and crawling underneath the foundation of your house.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea for sure, no comparision.
> 
> One is just hardcore cooling, the other.. is insanity
Click to expand...

Hahaha I think both are hardcore cooling.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I went from a single 3x120 and added 1x12O and now added a 2x120 for 3 rads total - I haven't seen any change in temps. Is this normal?
> My Domino rig in my sig (plus the 2 extra rads). My temps are ok, I was really just seeing if I could lower load temps on the GPU.
> CPU Temps: 9-14c idle (just what my FX chip reads, I'm sure this isn't accurate).
> 44-45c P95.
> GPU Temps: 39-40 idle
> 60-61 during Furmark
> As I said, my temps are good, just thought they might drop a degree or two with added rads. Now I'm thinking I should just get rid of the extra rads??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Whats the difference between your water temp and your air temperature. The water can only get so cool if your just using radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> My ambient temp is maintained 25-26c (77-78F).
Click to expand...

That's pretty good. No amount of extra Rads is gonna get you under ambient. Temps probably are not 100% accurate. Remember that reporting is delayed by whatever you have it set for. Or at least if your reporting app is able to be tinkered with. I have PC Probe II and mine is set to report in 5 second intervals.









A little extreme I know but I'm OCD. No such thing as extreme when you're OCD.









~Ceadder


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For sure. One way to find out is to remove one pump(electrically) from the loop and see if it affects your temps. If it doesn't then I would figure out how many passes your Radiator(s) has/have and multiply the length by the passes and figure out how long your tubing requirements are. If it is longer than the loop is(including Radiator passes) then you may need to get another pump to take up slack.
> If the length of tubing comes in shorter than the length of your loop the 2nd pump should be able to handle the workload I imagine.


Hmmm.... well, I'd say my radiator has more passes than the "average" ridiculous radiator lol


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Hmmm.... well, I'd say my radiator has more passes than the "average" ridiculous radiator lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LOL? Just 1 card?

AWESOME!


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Hmmm.... well, I'd say my radiator has more passes than the "average" ridiculous radiator lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That rad is


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Hmmm.... well, I'd say my radiator has more passes than the "average" ridiculous radiator lol


Is that the radiator out of a Buick?









And thanks for the input on my rad issue. I guess I was just looking for someone to give me solid justification for having all 3 rads when I don't REALLY need them...... I forgot that this is OCN and this monstrosity of a rad reminds me - I don't need any justification!


----------



## 218689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Is that the radiator out of a Buick?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks for the input on my rad issue. I guess I was just looking for someone to give me solid justification for having all 3 rads when I don't REALLY need them...... I forgot that this is OCN and this monstrosity of a rad reminds me - I don't need any justification!


looks more like a Rolls Royce to me, car radiators dont have treaded inlet and outlets though


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> LOL? Just 1 card?
> AWESOME!


lol nope..... that was just for gathering how monstrous this thing is lol... this will be for two xeon x5679's and 4xgtx480's... my folding rig project "force1"


----------



## hammerforged

More like *RAD*force1


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> lol nope..... that was just for gathering how monstrous this thing is lol... this will be for two xeon x5679's and 4xgtx480's... my folding rig project "force1"


That's freaking awesome. That's going to bring in some killer PPD


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> lol nope..... that was just for gathering how monstrous this thing is lol... this will be for two xeon x5679's and 4xgtx480's... my folding rig project "force1"


quad 480s







, brings back memories of uber high power usage







.

Awesome setup non-the-less.

SR2s are becoming very popular now that their not too expensive and there's quite a few cases that can fit this behemoth


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> lol nope..... that was just for gathering how monstrous this thing is lol... this will be for two xeon x5679's and 4xgtx480's... my folding rig project "force1"


You really dont need 2 ST 1500w you know,one is plenty.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You really dont need 2 ST 1500w you know,one is plenty.


But this is Overkill.net...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You really dont need 2 ST 1500w you know,one is plenty.


Looks like he's folding, so a 550-750w to power the mainboard and cpus and the st1500 for the gpu(s).

I wouldn't dial up the clocks on the 480s using a single st1500. @ 865 each, I was really pushing my old st1500 and that was on an lga2011 3820. Three of my 480s could push to 900 so I'm sure that would have popped the st1500 had all four been going that high.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like he's folding, so a 550-750w to power the mainboard and cpus and the st1500 for the gpu(s).
> I wouldn't dial up the clocks on the 480s using a single st1500. @ 865 each, I was really pushing my old st1500 and that was on an lga2011 3820. Three of my 480s could push to 900 so I'm sure that would have popped the st1500 had all four been going that high.


I have just one Enermax 1500w pushing a SR-2 and 3 670's and it doesnt break a sweat when im BOINCing.
I dunno how horrible the draw is on those 480s but most PSU calc are way out and always overestimate.
If you are in the US,you will trip the breaker breaking 1500w from the wall anyway so i suppose a second wouldnt hurt just to spread the load..

2 nice 850's would do it,but 2 1500w will just be a waste of money and cost more to run as they wont be in the efficiency sweet spot


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have just one Enermax 1500w pushing a SR-2 and 3 670's and it doesnt break a sweat when im BOINCing.
> I dunno how horrible the draw is on those 480s but most PSU calc are way out and always overestimate.
> If you are in the US,you will trip the breaker breaking 1500w from the wall anyway so i suppose a second wouldnt hurt just to spread the load..
> 2 nice 850's would do it,but 2 1500w will just be a waste of money and cost more to run as they wont be in the efficiency sweet spot


I had four 480s, I know how horrible they are on their power draw 







. I do agree, the second st1500 is a waste as its not being fully used. But this is ocn, as they say


----------



## KaRLiToS

Wermad, I have a spair Enermax Platimax 1350W


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Wermad, I have a spair Enermax Platimax 1350W


I'm good with the Seasonic x1250. I'm only running sli 590s. i have yet to check my Kill-a-Watt for power draw but it should be well within the SS capabilities.

Speaking of my rig; I have the Monsta 240 and GTX 240 plumbed and temps are respectable. Can't wait for my two 360s to come in


----------



## KaRLiToS

Sorry, I think I horribly misread because I just notice it wasn't even your question !!


----------



## famous1994

Add me, I just picked up an Antec Kuhler H20 620


----------



## NostraD

Nice, neat rig famous!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For sure. One way to find out is to remove one pump(electrically) from the loop and see if it affects your temps. If it doesn't then I would figure out how many passes your Radiator(s) has/have and multiply the length by the passes and figure out how long your tubing requirements are. If it is longer than the loop is(including Radiator passes) then you may need to get another pump to take up slack.
> If the length of tubing comes in shorter than the length of your loop the 2nd pump should be able to handle the workload I imagine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm.... well, I'd say my radiator has more passes than the "average" ridiculous radiator lol
Click to expand...

Holy hell 72 passes? Don't be surprised if that Rad comes up missing now.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Wermad, I have a spair Enermax Platimax 1350W
> 
> 
> 
> I'm good with the Seasonic x1250. I'm only running sli 590s. i have yet to check my Kill-a-Watt for power draw but it should be well within the SS capabilities.
> 
> Speaking of my rig; I have the Monsta 240 and GTX 240 plumbed and temps are respectable. Can't wait for my two 360s to come in
Click to expand...

Yeah, wish I could run a beefy Rad like those Monstas. But you know the window of the 932 will not allow it. That's okay soon as I can I'm ordering a Right access door and Modding it.







lol

...

Lookie lookie what the mail lady left for me...




I tested one fresh out of the cold Mailbox. OMG they're frackin tighter than a Prom virgin.









Still they're gonna look awesome in the dark interior of my case.









Gonna shut it down here in a bit to get started.









~Ceadder


----------



## famous1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Nice, neat rig famous!


Thanks!


----------



## NostraD

Nice Cead! Pretty bling...can't wait to see them installed!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Nice Cead! Pretty bling...can't wait to see them installed!


You'll need to wait a couple of years for that























j/k


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Nice Cead! Pretty bling...can't wait to see them installed!
> 
> 
> 
> You'll need to wait a couple of years for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k
Click to expand...

Be nice werm, you know my OCD and pocket make it hard to get anything done in a timely manner.







lol

Okay I'm outta here now. Catch y'all on the flipside.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Be nice werm, you know my OCD and pocket make it hard to get anything done in a timely manner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Okay I'm outta here now. Catch y'all on the flipside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm just mess'n w/ you mate









You know....better hide those Monsoon too, or they will be missing too







.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have just one Enermax 1500w pushing a SR-2 and 3 670's and it doesnt break a sweat when im BOINCing.
> I dunno how horrible the draw is on those 480s but most PSU calc are way out and always overestimate.
> If you are in the US,you will trip the breaker breaking 1500w from the wall anyway so i suppose a second wouldnt hurt just to spread the load..
> 2 nice 850's would do it,but 2 1500w will just be a waste of money and cost more to run as they wont be in the efficiency sweet spot


It isn't a waste







besides I'm splitting the load across both PSUs and from what I've seen the st1500s are pretty efficient in the 900W range







.

And all of my 480s push 900/2200 plus at 1.21v and I'm hoping for 5ghz on the CPUs. Overkill? Nah... waste full? Nah... melting polar ice caps, killing trees, and nuclear waste to generate the KILLawats I'll use for foldathons? Oh yes lol


----------



## Rickles

looking at putting in one of those visual flow indicators, any to stay away from?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> It isn't a waste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> besides I'm splitting the load across both PSUs and from what I've seen the st1500s are pretty efficient in the 900W range
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And all of my 480s push 900/2200 plus at 1.21v and I'm hoping for 5ghz on the CPUs. Overkill? Nah... waste full? Nah... melting polar ice caps, killing trees, and nuclear waste to generate the KILLawats I'll use for foldathons? Oh yes lol


A few months ago I saw one that didn't sell for $150. Tempting but I still like my 1.25k unit









What does your Kill-A-Watt show and what's the amperage breaker you have that beast on?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> quad 480s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , brings back memories of uber high power usage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Awesome setup non-the-less.
> SR2s are becoming very popular now that their not too expensive and there's quite a few cases that can fit this behemoth


I'm modding my old school LAN li cast to fit







check out my build log


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> looking at putting in one of those visual flow indicators, any to stay away from?


I am using bitspower one, to be honest im not very satisfied with it. I am using a red coolant thus I cant really see the flow since the flow blade is black, pretty sure you'll get a better result if you use brighter coolant


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I'm modding my old school LAN li cast to fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check out my build log


Kewl

I do miss quad 480s; don't miss the super power consumption


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> looking at putting in one of those visual flow indicators, any to stay away from?


I am using a Bitspower flow indicator and the quality and function is great.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> It isn't a waste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> besides I'm splitting the load across both PSUs and from what I've seen the st1500s are pretty efficient in the 900W range
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And all of my 480s push 900/2200 plus at 1.21v and I'm hoping for 5ghz on the CPUs. Overkill? Nah... waste full? Nah... melting polar ice caps, killing trees, and nuclear waste to generate the KILLawats I'll use for foldathons? Oh yes lol


"Oh dear... he seems to be folding again. Fire up Reactor #3."


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> quad 480s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , brings back memories of uber high power usage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Awesome setup non-the-less.


Very true, I don't miss my tri sli 480s tho. They were great for years tho. They're just sitting on top of my mountain mods build (in pieces) because they're not powerful enough to bother using anymore considering the power consumption.


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: From earlier today...!







Oh my god what a royal pain in the tuchus just changing from one to the other. I didn't cut any tubing yet my CPU to Rad tube was too short and my Rad to Res tube was also too short. Luckily I had a longer piece laying around in a box to swap into the Rad to Res tube. The CPU to Rad tube got replaced with my drain tube and now the drain tube is too short to hide under the HDDs'.

I like PrimoChill but I have to say these are the wrong fittings for PrimoChill LRT. The Collars were snug against the tubing so it was murder trying to get them to thread. I had to have the tubing off the barb just slightly and the thread on the collars just before the end of the tubing. To cinch them up you gotta pull the collar to the threads and while holding the tubing or the Angle fitting pull and twist it together once you have a couple threads cinched it pulls the tubing snug. In any case this caused a leak at the upper CPU fitting, but I fixed it by hand wrenching the Rotary clockwise while holding the Angle still. OMG my poor thumb is raw from the Enzotech gnurling.









Took awhile but I got the first 6 done.



And yes, my tubing has the plasticizer leaching from it. 6 months use and it was leaving white mark on the EK barbs as I pulled them from the tubing. That is not cool. So I can safely say that it has absolutely NOTHING to do with Killcoil since I've never run a single Killcoil in my loop and I'm pretty sure that it's not coming from the Radiator because I flushed it like a madman to make sure that none of the flux or any other bits would get caught up in my pumps.









I woulda taken pics of my barbs ... actually just looked at one and sure enough it had a bit of plasticizer...

Before...
After...


As you can see the first pick there is a white mark on the barb. That's not a scratch. That's plasticizer. In the second I used my thumbnail and lightly scratched at it and you can see that it came right off. So it looks like when I replace my tubing I will not be using PrimoChill LRT. It never kinks but I cannot see using this stuff again if it's gonna leave that junk behind in my loop. Sadly there aren't many options for white tubing.









So yeah got it all back together and now just need to sell these awesome EK fittings to finish out my Loop with Monsoons. Sadly I kina had to wreck one to get it apart. I wrapped the crap out of it with Frog tape but my Chanel-Locs ate a big chunk of the tape up and got to the finish. I had to use another pair to grab the shorter PrimoChill tubing at the same time and counter rotate the bloody things to get any kind of rotation it was so well locked in there. I've an idea for a tool and how they can fix this so that it will never ever happen to another owner of Monsoons again. I am relatively annoyed that it happened at all tbh. But the little wrench that comes with these fittings is okay. There haas to be a better way imho. Don't get me wrong I love the look of these fittings but the plating isn't what anyone should expect for a fitting that costs $7.50 on it's own. I was being extremely anal about making sure I didn't damage my Precious. It was as if I was trying to keep the Hobbitses away from them. I let out a hair curling scream when my Chanel-Locs did that to my Precious.











So now I get to order one more single to fix it.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

pics are too dark


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> pics are too dark


+1


----------



## Ceadderman

Kay hadda upload them to Photobucket to brighten them up...
Before...


After...


That white is not a scratch. That's white from the PrimoChill.









~Ceadder


----------



## teamrushpntball

Jeesh, I know where you're coming from though. Rolled through 12 feet of Primochill in two months with how quick it was clouding up. Straight distilled and kill coil, oh well have clear Masterkleer on the way to go with some sexy Mayhem's Yellow Aurora that I intend to run till after Christmas. Have to show this sexy rig off to family when they come into town. If I have to see pictures of their vacations, kids, dogs etc they are looking at my damn computer.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> pics are too dark


This


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> pics are too dark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This
Click to expand...

Look two posts up.
















lol

~Ceadder



































<

Damn no matter how much I drink I'm still not drunk.







lol


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Look two posts up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <
> 
> Damn no matter how much I drink I'm still not drunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Oh I saw it







Still too dark.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Jeesh, I know where you're coming from though. Rolled through 12 feet of Primochill in two months with how quick it was clouding up. Straight distilled and kill coil, oh well have clear Masterkleer on the way to go with some sexy Mayhem's Yellow Aurora that I intend to run till after Christmas. Have to show this sexy rig off to family when they come into town. If I have to see pictures of their vacations, kids, dogs etc they are looking at my damn computer.


Thats right









Make a collection of the best looking rigs on here and show them


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> My ambient temp is maintained 25-26c (77-78F).
> Edit: CPU load temp: 45c. GPU load temp: 61c


You missed the water temp.

Everyone seems to miss water temp around here for some reason and goes off ambient and component load temp. If your water is at or right near ambient no amount of rad or fans will make your stuff run cooler. And if you are already running within a few degrees of ambient there is a diminishing return trying to chase those last few degrees.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> My ambient temp is maintained 25-26c (77-78F).
> Edit: CPU load temp: 45c. GPU load temp: 61c
> 
> 
> 
> You missed the water temp.
> 
> Everyone seems to miss water temp around here for some reason and goes off ambient and component load temp. If your water is at or right near ambient no amount of rad or fans will make your stuff run cooler. And if you are already running within a few degrees of ambient there is a diminishing return trying to chase those last few degrees.
Click to expand...

I don't think people miss it. I just don't think they all have a temp sensor for their water temp. Personally its a must for me.


----------



## Likespikes69

Meh. Nothing special I suppose, but thought I would post and join =]


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I don't think people miss it. I just don't think they all have a temp sensor for their water temp. Personally its a must for me.


I just stick a thermometer in my res used a alcohol bulb variety before I got the temp probe for my multimeter. I think you can get a multimeter with temp probe for ~$30.00. I use my multimeter quite a bit and the temp probe more than I thought. Saved me some $$ too in the end when I saw how close I was to ambient and that spending $50-75 on my rad area wasn't going to get me much.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Likespikes69*
> 
> 
> Meh. Nothing special I suppose, but thought I would post and join =]


Hey personally I think your rig looks better then a lot of peoples rigs around here. If you had a tube res it would look AAA+. It's only AAA right now


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> I just stick a thermometer in my res used a alcohol bulb variety before I got the temp probe for my multimeter. I think you can get a multimeter with temp probe for ~$30.00. I use my multimeter quite a bit and the temp probe more than I thought. Saved me some $$ too in the end when I saw how close I was to ambient and that spending $50-75 on my rad area wasn't going to get me much.


[email protected]!! Speaking of multi meter I was at walmart the other night and while in the electrical section I asked an employee where I can find a digital multimeter and the dummy threw her hands in the air and said "I don't even know what that is" and didn't offer to help and walked a way. I was so mad that I didn't think quick enough to ask her to find another employee who could help me.

I guess that's why some people work at Wal-Mart.

sorry /endrant


----------



## Likespikes69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Hey personally I think your rig looks better then a lot of peoples rigs around here. If you had a tube res it would look AAA+. It's only AAA right now


Well thanks! My current goal is to find a sleeving kit that will hold my six pci-e power cables without looking too bulky. Next big upgrade may be for quick disconnect lines and some better 90 degree barbs, lol.


----------



## steelkevin

Yeah, personally it's not that I'm not aware of how important water temps is or what you need to know it it's just that I was on a really tight budget and could'ntafford getting one. I will have to get one sooner or later but right now priority isgetting a GPU under water and getting a better mobo so I can overclock myCPU. I'll probably gather an extra 10€ and get one at the same time as my GPU / wb.
It really bothers me not knowing but I'm not going to pay as much shipping as the actual cost of the fitting-sensor.

Like most things once I'll have one I won't be able to do without it but right now I'm good and can hold until christmass.

Btw, is water the same temps everywhere ?
If not where is it best to place the sensor ?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Likespikes69*
> 
> Well thanks! My current goal is to find a sleeving kit that will hold my six pci-e power cables without looking too bulky. Next big upgrade may be for quick disconnect lines and some better 90 degree barbs, lol.


Are you looking for a pre sleeved kit or are you just looking to sleeve it yourself. Many around here would recommend MDPC. I have never seen and touched the stuff myself but it looks far superior in all the pictures I have seen.

You may want to look into paracord also. It is a bit harder to work with but is much more pliable so you could arrange your cables a bit easier I think.


----------



## Likespikes69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Are you looking for a pre sleeved kit or are you just looking to sleeve it yourself. Many around here would recommend MDPC. I have never seen and touched the stuff myself but it looks far superior in all the pictures I have seen.
> You may want to look into paracord also. It is a bit harder to work with but is much more pliable so you could arrange your cables a bit easier I think.


All the cables terminate at different lengths due to placement on the PSU and the physical space between the cards, so I believe my only choice is to sleeve myself. Thanks for the recommendations, I'll look into those!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Yeah, personally it's not that I'm not aware of how important water temps is or what you need to know it it's just that I was on a really tight budget and could'ntafford getting one. I will have to get one sooner or later but right now priority isgetting a GPU under water and getting a better mobo so I can overclock myCPU. I'll probably gather an extra 10€ and get one at the same time as my GPU / wb.
> It really bothers me not knowing but I'm not going to pay as much shipping as the actual cost of the fitting-sensor.
> 
> Like most things once I'll have one I won't be able to do without it but right now I'm good and can hold until christmass.
> 
> Btw, is water the same temps everywhere ?
> If not where is it best to place the sensor ?


Yes the water temp is the same in the whole loop. It is that way because it moves so fast ~1 Gallon per minute.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Likespikes69*
> 
> All the cables terminate at different lengths due to placement on the PSU and the physical space between the cards, so I believe my only choice is to sleeve myself. Thanks for the recommendations, I'll look into those!


You could take it to the whole new level like I am and make new wires at custom lengths for perfect cable management! of course this will cost more money as you have to buy spool of wire and crimp pins and a crimp tool. BUt it will keep you nice and clean behind the motherboard tray which actually matters A LOT to me.









MDPC also offers all the crimp pins and crimp tool but you will have to buy your 18awg elsewhere.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Hmmm, my water temp runs between 10C-15C above ambient under heavy load. Hard to believe my rads aren't enough but not sure what else I can do?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> [email protected]!! Speaking of multi meter I was at walmart the other night and while in the electrical section I asked an employee where I can find a digital multimeter and the dummy threw her hands in the air and said "I don't even know what that is" and didn't offer to help and walked a way.
> sorry /endrant


You actually thought you would be helped? lol ..........







....







......







.......


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You actually thought you would be helped? lol ..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .......


\

I still have a small amount of faith left in humanity. It get's chipped away bit by bit every day though.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> You missed the water temp.
> Everyone seems to miss water temp around here for some reason and goes off ambient and component load temp. If your water is at or right near ambient no amount of rad or fans will make your stuff run cooler. And if you are already running within a few degrees of ambient there is a diminishing return trying to chase those last few degrees.


Ahh, ok. I actually have 2 thermal sensors: Res shows 28-30c (all chips loaded), my in-line sensor coming out of GPU showing 30-31c....can that be right? GPU was showing 57c when I noted these temps. Anyway, I guess I should be happy (and I am) that my temps are as good as they are. Now if I could get a stable OC over 5GHz that would REALLY make me happy! Thanks for the input all!

I've ordered some Monsoon fittings - I think I will order a few more thermal sensors to place around my loop, then I will look at temps again at that time.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Ahh, ok. I actually have 2 thermal sensors: Res shows 28-30c (all chips loaded), my in-line sensor coming out of GPU showing 30-31c....can that be right? GPU was showing 57c when I noted these temps. Anyway, I guess I should be happy (and I am) that my temps are as good as they are. Now if I could get a stable OC over 5GHz that would REALLY make me happy! Thanks for the input all!


I would say you have to calibrate them and dip them into the same solution to see if they read out the same temps. Are they both the exact same model and make?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> [email protected]!! Speaking of multi meter I was at walmart the other night and while in the electrical section I asked an employee where I can find a digital multimeter and the dummy threw her hands in the air and said "I don't even know what that is" and didn't offer to help and walked a way. I was so mad that I didn't think quick enough to ask her to find another employee who could help me.
> I guess that's why some people work at Wal-Mart.
> sorry /endrant


Lol man, that reminds me when some buddies and I would get inebriated and go to wally world around 2am lol. More than one employee is still trying to figure out what shnarples are lol


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Lol man, that reminds me when some buddies and I would get inebriated and go to wally world around 2am lol. More than one employee is still trying to figure out what shnarples are lol


Awesome you guys have 24 hours mal warts? We only do that for holidays here.

What is a shnarple lol? A sharpie marker and a snapple?


----------



## JohnnyEars

Pics

Just waiting on a Alphacool UT60 360mm and then I can rebuild it (again...)

Masterkleer clear - non u/v.. CPU-370, Mayhems pastel blue 2L premix, Koolance 80mm x 200mm res + 60 - 80mm adapter, Bitspower drain, 7 x AP-15 fans.. and a MONSTA!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Pics
> Just waiting on a Alphacool UT60 360mm and then I can rebuild it (again...)
> Masterkleer clear - non u/v.. CPU-370, Mayhems pastel blue 2L premix, Koolance 80mm x 200mm res + 60 - 80mm adapter, Bitspower drain, 7 x AP-15 fans.. and a MONSTA!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome to the Monsta Club


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Yes the water temp is the same in the whole loop. It is that way because it moves so fast ~1 Gallon per minute.


Ok, just another question though:

How can idle CPU temps be @ambient (well 1°C higher actually) if water is hotter ? Probably should rephrase that:
Why/how is the CPU @idle cooler than the water is ?
CPU: 20° for Water: 30° for example.

@Everybody:

Which temp sensor do you use ?
What's the point of those flow sensors ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Ok, just another question though:
> How can idle CPU temps be @ambient (well 1°C higher actually) if water is hotter ? Probably should rephrase that:
> Why/how is the CPU @idle cooler than the water is ?
> CPU: 20° for Water: 30° for example.
> @Everybody:
> Which temp sensor do you use ?
> What's the point of those flow sensors ?


What is the temp of your water and CPU,your example is unlikely..

I use Bitspower temp probes.

Flow sensors are there to help you get over the magic 1gpm mark,you can tell a lot about a loop by the way the water actually flows round it.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Ok, just another question though:
> How can idle CPU temps be @ambient (well 1°C higher actually) if water is hotter ? Probably should rephrase that:
> Why/how is the CPU @idle cooler than the water is ?
> CPU: 20° for Water: 30° for example.
> @Everybody:
> Which temp sensor do you use ?
> What's the point of those flow sensors ?


If your like me - them you are on a tight budget. That's why I buy these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flow-scout-meter-Digital-thermometer-for-Water-Liquid-cooler-system-CPU-CO2-/180914747924?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1f5bfa14

It takes 3-4 weeks to get them (from China) but to buy the individual components (DiGital LCD, G1/4 temp sensor, flow meter block) would cost at least twice the price. A Bitspower temp probe is probably $20. I know that the clear acrylic block isn't for everyone, but I like it. The internal propeller makes it easy to see that your pump is indeed working with just a glance...anyway, you ask what we use - that's what I use.


----------



## Rickles

I need to stop ordering things.

2 Monsoon 45s, 1 monsoon 90, a temp probe and lcd, and a bitspower flow monitor. If i don't post pictures in the next week my wife has probably taken the remmington to my pc


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I need to stop ordering things.
> 2 Monsoon 45s, 1 monsoon 90, a temp probe and lcd, and a bitspower flow monitor. If i don't post pictures in the next week my wife has probably taken the remmington to my pc


Hahah me too my friend. Although it's not my PC I am worried about losing.


----------



## Michalius

Ugh. Every place is sold out of the 670 razor blocks/backplates. Even ordering between all the different sites I can't get everything I need. I was already on the fence about getting these over the Acrylic EK blocks, as the green fluid flowing through that 3-way SLI bridge would look boss. I'm now torn. What do I do?


----------



## Ironkidz

My latest GTX680 4GB 4way SLI build. Pulls 1400w of Powahhhhh....


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> My latest GTX680 4GB 4way SLI build. Pulls 1400w of Powahhhhh....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tubaliscious!









Oh, have do you have a pic of your killawatt reading? I assume that's at a decent overclock your wattage reading?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> I just stick a thermometer in my res used a alcohol bulb variety before I got the temp probe for my multimeter. I think you can get a multimeter with temp probe for ~$30.00. I use my multimeter quite a bit and the temp probe more than I thought. Saved me some $$ too in the end when I saw how close I was to ambient and that spending $50-75 on my rad area wasn't going to get me much.
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]!! Speaking of multi meter I was at walmart the other night and while in the electrical section I asked an employee where I can find a digital multimeter and the dummy threw her hands in the air and said "I don't even know what that is" and didn't offer to help and walked a way. I was so mad that I didn't think quick enough to ask her to find another employee who could help me.
> 
> I guess that's why some people work at Wal-Mart.
> 
> sorry /endrant
Click to expand...

Well that wasn't nice on her part but I think you're just as much to blame.

First off it's WalMart not RadioShack. So I'm not sure they even carry a Multimeter. But if they do, it would be in the Automotive Section. To my knowledge most WalMarts carry predominately end user product and not so much in troubleshooting items. Your best bet if that ever comes up again is a Hardware Store like Home Depot, Lowes, OSH, Ace Hardware or a RadioShack if you have one of those.

Now I won't make like she did nothing wrong cause that's just insane. I worked Sales and would never in a million years no matter how busy I was shine you off like that. But if they don't carry it it's doubtful that she would've known anyway. People are getting less and less hands on as we get more and more technically advanced. Go figure. I was taught long ago to rely on my hands and only let someone else at my project if experience dictated.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Likespikes69*
> 
> All the cables terminate at different lengths due to placement on the PSU and the physical space between the cards, so I believe my only choice is to sleeve myself. Thanks for the recommendations, I'll look into those!
> 
> 
> 
> You could take it to the whole new level like I am and make new wires at custom lengths for perfect cable management! of course this will cost more money as you have to buy spool of wire and crimp pins and a crimp tool. BUt it will keep you nice and clean behind the motherboard tray which actually matters A LOT to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MDPC also offers all the crimp pins and crimp tool but you will have to buy your 18awg elsewhere.
Click to expand...

If in the States you can get a good Crimper and Pins from PPCs' for less than it would cost to get the MDPC tool and pins. Probably quicker too. I don't know what's going on with Nils but his listed US hours are very annoying to me cause I can never seem to catch him when I am on and when he is on, I am off. It's kina like trying to shoot fish in a barrel with a spitball. Doesn't work very well.

The crimper that PPCs' carries is very good. But you have to know what you're doing to get solid results. People complain that it wraps the insulation crimp. I preset my pin in the correct gauge opening, crimp til it's nearly touching the pin on both sides. Insert the cable up to the insulation push a mm or two further and finish the crimp. Works every time and never have split insulation or wrapped crimping. The pin always gets the open side set into the crimp die with the compression jaw coming into contact with the closed end. Easy peasy.









And never buy your cable spools online. I always buy mine from Home Depot when I'm on that side of the river doing other errands. I like being able to see the quality of the material that I may be working with before purchase. I'm not keen on buying cable online unless it's at a reputable place that I do business with and can get my money back with no hassle if the quality is less than reasonable. But I'm OCD, so take this with a huge grain of sodium chloride.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I need to stop ordering things.
> 2 Monsoon 45s, 1 monsoon 90, a temp probe and lcd, and a bitspower flow monitor. If i don't post pictures in the next week my wife has probably taken the remmington to my pc


I ordered the wrong fitting size (







), more money to spend on the correct size















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> My latest GTX680 4GB 4way SLI build. Pulls 1400w of Powahhhhh....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I hope your running three 2560x1600 screens









Very awesome build mate


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Ugh. Every place is sold out of the 670 razor blocks/backplates. Even ordering between all the different sites I can't get everything I need. I was already on the fence about getting these over the Acrylic EK blocks, as the green fluid flowing through that 3-way SLI bridge would look boss. I'm now torn. What do I do?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/XSPC-Razor-GTX-670-Water-Block-And-Back-Plate-/221138787090?pt=US_Video_Card_GPU_Cooling&hash=item337ce61b12

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XSPC-Razor-GTX-670-WATER-COOLED-BLOCKS-blue-light-led-/271060464708?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item3f1c767444

Maybe these will help....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> My latest GTX680 4GB 4way SLI build. Pulls 1400w of Powahhhhh....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A case like that, a SLi setup like that and no water cooling on those GPU's









Go head and water cool those suckers









Looks bloody awesome


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A case like that, a SLi setup like that and no water cooling on those GPU's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go head and water cool those suckers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks bloody awesome


Uhh they are water cooled...


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I ordered the wrong fitting size (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), more money to spend on the correct size


Yea, those are listed by OD from what I gathered, is that correct?


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Uhh they are water cooled...


i do agree with him though it is kinda hard to see considering your only pic is from the front ish of the case!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> My latest GTX680 4GB 4way SLI build. Pulls 1400w of Powahhhhh....


Very beautiful rig - especially with these water-cooled beautys all lined up in SLI! Excellent


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Yea, those are listed by OD from what I gathered, is that correct?


I rushed doing that order. And yes, you are correct; compressions go by id and od. I was in a hurry and wanted to get the order in quickly to ship out that same day. Error cost more money and time







.

It happens unfortunately









Good thing i got a couple of BP fittings in the right size from a rad purchase







. I'm shy a single one but I not running all my rads so I'm good for now








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Uhh they are water cooled...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> i do agree with him though it is kinda hard to see considering your only pic is from the front ish of the case!
Click to expand...

I think he was being sarcastic to point out that it should be done and it was done


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Uhh they are water cooled...
> 
> 
> 
> i do agree with him though it is kinda hard to see considering your only pic is from the front ish of the case!
Click to expand...

Look at the pics? Btw, that's not even the guy you quoted!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Yes, this is a Silverstone PS07.
> Because I do not want to hide anything I made a windowed side panel out of a piece of plexi and some brushed metal contact paper


Very nice.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Man, this 35x is noisy on full power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Need to get this pwm going


Looks like I'm getting a 655 if I ever start water cooling.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Yes, this is a Silverstone PS07.
> Because I do not want to hide anything I made a windowed side panel out of a piece of plexi and some brushed metal contact paper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *Man, this 35x is noisy on full power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *. Need to get this pwm going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks like I'm getting a 655 if I ever start water cooling.
Click to expand...

Wermad, more technical difficulties? 655 is so weak though, noise isn't an issue if you just plug the pwm plug in lol.


----------



## NewHighScore

Sooo sexy.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Wermad, more technical difficulties? 655 is so weak though, noise isn't an issue if you just plug the pwm plug in lol.


I found the issue (loose bay cover). Still running max since I haven't setup pwm. Tbh, I'm just gonna hook it up to my controller and drop it to its lowest setting (40%). That should put me in the pumps optimal performance range without bothering with pwm









At max, its hella hotter than all my old mcp 355s (Ive had four of them







). Good thing there's a couple of fans under it. Shouldn't be an issue once under 40% power.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Sooo sexy.
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1089442/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


----------



## tsm106

Why must you do things the hard way? You're back on the revo? It takes a minute to setup pwm in the bios dude.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Wermad, more technical difficulties? 655 is so weak though, noise isn't an issue if you just plug the pwm plug in lol.


D5...weak....what you been smoking?


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Wermad, more technical difficulties? 655 is so weak though, noise isn't an issue if you just plug the pwm plug in lol.
> 
> 
> 
> D5...weak....what you been smoking?
Click to expand...

Apparently not the same stuff you are.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> D5...weak....what you been smoking?


TSM 106 = die hard 35x fan
B Negative = die hard D5 fan

Nuff said






























edit: its like Chevy vs Ford...nether side will admit anything good about the other and each will always says their is better.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> TSM 106 = die hard 35x fan
> B Negative = die hard D5 fan
> Nuff said


True enough.
Im not one for rabid fanboism....well...except for the SR-2.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> True enough.
> Im not one for rabid fanboism....well...except for the SR-2.....


SR2 and X58 Classy...the last true great mb from EVGA. Their recent stuff sucks the paint off the walls


----------



## tsm106

I bought a x58 Classy once. Tiger sent it with the heatsink at a 45deg angle.









Tigerdirect, nice one. Oh well, it was for the better since it wouldn't fit my 700D anyways w/o a bit of dremel work.


----------



## NostraD

I just keep seeing all these monsoon angled fittings and wishing I had ordered a few ...then my mortgage flashes before my eyes and I snap back to reality....maybe someday....

Thanks for the eye candy anyway fellas...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> SR2 and X58 Classy...the last true great mb from EVGA. Their recent stuff sucks the paint off the walls


Its a tragic state of affairs,its not so much the boards are bad as so much the BIOS are laughable.
The cards are going good tho,hopefully they will spend the money on a decent BIOS dev team.


----------



## Fuganater

I'm just now moving from DDC to 655/D5 pumps and so far I'm impressed. Probably going to sell all my DDC pumps, tops and res' to buy more D5/655 varios


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My latest GTX680 4GB 4way SLI build. Pulls 1400w of Powahhhhh....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


These rigs are sooo beautiful and sexy!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a tragic state of affairs,its not so much the boards are bad as so much the BIOS are laughable.
> The cards are going good tho,hopefully they will spend the money on a decent BIOS dev team.


There's also bad execution. As I've noted a lot: on paper, their stuff looks awesome, but in real-life, with crappy bios and crappy execution, it just blows. I quickly got rid of my z77 before the huge price drop ~40%. A true sign of failure (which evga quickly denies). A lot of ppl were pissed about this due to the huge depreciation on their x79 and z77 boards.

Going back on topic: damn all that Monsoon pr0n! Still, I see myself sticking with the traditional compression fittings though...


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Likespikes69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meh. Nothing special I suppose, but thought I would post and join =]


Are you using Y splitters for those fans for the fan controller or a different type of splitters?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Are you using Y splitters for those fans for the fan controller or a different type of splitters?


I use them







. Most cases ppl will run splitters to connect multiple fans to a controller's channel. You splice the wires using some simple soldering skills. Or, buy a fan hub:


----------



## Fuganater

or buy a multi fan Y. I'm using phobya ones I think in my build.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Sooo sexy.


Let me know how those Akasa 140's work out for ya Newhighscore. Loving the looks of them and think I may use some in addition to my AP15's.


----------



## Michalius

Another $450 sent to my crack dealer.

3x EK Acrylic + Nickel 670 blocks
3x EK 670 backplates
1x Triple Acrylic FC Link Bridge


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Let me know how those Akasa 140's work out for ya Newhighscore. Loving the looks of them and think I may use some in addition to my AP15's.


Will do!







If everything goes according to plan I will be setting up the test run for the loop tomorrow afternoon or night and should have some temps within the next few days. I plugged 1 into my mobo to test it out and it's fairly quite at regular speeds. I am hoping to get away with running them at 600 rpm but who knows how well that will work.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Very nice.


Thanks, I just ordered a RX240 and a Waterblock for that 670.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Looks like I was in luck and didn't have to buy a mismatched acrylic Supremacy block to go with my Supreme HF mobo blocks. I guess it's a lesson learned on properly measuring and alligning my tubes and fittings when working with acrylic against metal. The good thing is that I didn't have to buy the entire block. PPCS sells the top by itself. So that saved me some cash. But the money I saved, I ended up adding other things to my order anyway.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: From earlier today...!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my god what a royal pain in the tuchus just changing from one to the other. I didn't cut any tubing yet my CPU to Rad tube was too short and my Rad to Res tube was also too short. Luckily I had a longer piece laying around in a box to swap into the Rad to Res tube. The CPU to Rad tube got replaced with my drain tube and now the drain tube is too short to hide under the HDDs'.
> I like PrimoChill but I have to say these are the wrong fittings for PrimoChill LRT. The Collars were snug against the tubing so it was murder trying to get them to thread. I had to have the tubing off the barb just slightly and the thread on the collars just before the end of the tubing. To cinch them up you gotta pull the collar to the threads and while holding the tubing or the Angle fitting pull and twist it together once you have a couple threads cinched it pulls the tubing snug. In any case this caused a leak at the upper CPU fitting, but I fixed it by hand wrenching the Rotary clockwise while holding the Angle still. OMG my poor thumb is raw from the Enzotech gnurling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took awhile but I got the first 6 done.
> 
> And yes, my tubing has the plasticizer leaching from it. 6 months use and it was leaving white mark on the EK barbs as I pulled them from the tubing. That is not cool. So I can safely say that it has absolutely NOTHING to do with Killcoil since I've never run a single Killcoil in my loop and I'm pretty sure that it's not coming from the Radiator because I flushed it like a madman to make sure that none of the flux or any other bits would get caught up in my pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I woulda taken pics of my barbs ... actually just looked at one and sure enough it had a bit of plasticizer...
> Before...
> After...
> 
> As you can see the first pick there is a white mark on the barb. That's not a scratch. That's plasticizer. In the second I used my thumbnail and lightly scratched at it and you can see that it came right off. So it looks like when I replace my tubing I will not be using PrimoChill LRT. It never kinks but I cannot see using this stuff again if it's gonna leave that junk behind in my loop. Sadly there aren't many options for white tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah got it all back together and now just need to sell these awesome EK fittings to finish out my Loop with Monsoons. Sadly I kina had to wreck one to get it apart. I wrapped the crap out of it with Frog tape but my Chanel-Locs ate a big chunk of the tape up and got to the finish. I had to use another pair to grab the shorter PrimoChill tubing at the same time and counter rotate the bloody things to get any kind of rotation it was so well locked in there. I've an idea for a tool and how they can fix this so that it will never ever happen to another owner of Monsoons again. I am relatively annoyed that it happened at all tbh. But the little wrench that comes with these fittings is okay. There haas to be a better way imho. Don't get me wrong I love the look of these fittings but the plating isn't what anyone should expect for a fitting that costs $7.50 on it's own. I was being extremely anal about making sure I didn't damage my Precious. It was as if I was trying to keep the Hobbitses away from them. I let out a hair curling scream when my Chanel-Locs did that to my Precious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I get to order one more single to fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry to bring up this post again, but I'm quite shocked!
I'd been looking forward to seeing those lovely Monsoon fittings you previewed.
I hope you'll be able to sort out all of that and get them fitting right.
As for the Primochill, I'm not surprised about the plasticizer, it's time for you to get some better tubing. I've still got a new 20' roll of Primoflex LRT White that I won't be using, after I'd seen too many posts about issues with it.
I bought 50' of Durelene tubing (some to spare, in case I eventually need extra!) to replace the Primochill.
I know you want to use white tubing, and no dye in the coolant. I originally did too, but I'm going to try running Mayhems Pastel Ice White with the Durelene for a similar effect.
Have you considered a similar option?
Unless there's some suitable white tubing that's less problematic for you.


----------



## chino1974

Guys for you who knew him Erakith aka Adam Wilson has passed away. He will be missed dearly and never forgotten. Please pray for his family in this time of need. God Bless You Adam and your loved ones.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Another $450 sent to my crack dealer.
> 3x EK Acrylic + Nickel 670 blocks
> 3x EK 670 backplates
> 1x Triple Acrylic FC Link Bridge


I'd have a hard time dropping that much cash on the crop circle design









Did you check out HK btw?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Another $450 sent to my crack dealer.
> 3x EK Acrylic + Nickel 670 blocks
> 3x EK 670 backplates
> 1x Triple Acrylic FC Link Bridge


Funny







I Needed a fix today as well.









DT Sniper CPU Block= $73.85 shipped
3 x 120 mm Fan Grill - Black $5.97
1 x Koolance 3-Fan Radiator Shroud, Black $34.99
1 x (UN)Designs Rad Bracket $16.95
6 x Bgears B-Blaster High Performance Dual Ball Bearing 120mm Fan $59.70
1 x Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 - Full Clear Acrylic Version $37.95
10ft Durelene 1/2 x 3/4 from Sidewinder= $15.55 shipped
Koolance PMP-500 Pump, G 1/4 BSP = 92.06 shipped


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Funny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Needed a fix today as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DT Sniper CPU Block= $73.85 shipped
> 3 x 120 mm Fan Grill - Black $5.97
> 1 x Koolance 3-Fan Radiator Shroud, Black $34.99
> 1 x (UN)Designs Rad Bracket $16.95
> 6 x Bgears B-Blaster High Performance Dual Ball Bearing 120mm Fan $59.70
> 1 x Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 - Full Clear Acrylic Version $37.95
> 10ft Durelene 1/2 x 3/4 from Sidewinder= $15.55 shipped
> Koolance PMP-500 Pump, G 1/4 BSP = 92.06 shipped


damn it! lol everytime I see someone post a purchase list it reminds me of killing all of my money trees in the back yard from my orders! lol


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Funny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Needed a fix today as well.


Talk to me about it; just ordered an ASUS Crosshair Formula V-Z Tuesday morning... I'm almost getting high just in expectation.














(269 maple leaves to my dealer!)


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just in the process of installing my new EK Uni blocks, and found Gigabyte have put a lot of thermal paste on.

When I replace this with Arctic Silver 5, do I apply it with the same manner as I would a CPU, just enough to cover the chip?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just in the process of installing my new EK Uni blocks, and found Gigabyte have put a lot of thermal paste on.
> When I replace this with Arctic Silver 5, do I apply it with the same manner as I would a CPU, just enough to cover the chip?


Yes. You don't need to goop it on. Just enough to cover the chip.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Cheers Hanoverfist thats what I was thinking.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ But what if you like to poop on it Hannover?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: From earlier today...!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my god what a royal pain in the tuchus just changing from one to the other. I didn't cut any tubing yet my CPU to Rad tube was too short and my Rad to Res tube was also too short. Luckily I had a longer piece laying around in a box to swap into the Rad to Res tube. The CPU to Rad tube got replaced with my drain tube and now the drain tube is too short to hide under the HDDs'.
> I like PrimoChill but I have to say these are the wrong fittings for PrimoChill LRT. The Collars were snug against the tubing so it was murder trying to get them to thread. I had to have the tubing off the barb just slightly and the thread on the collars just before the end of the tubing. To cinch them up you gotta pull the collar to the threads and while holding the tubing or the Angle fitting pull and twist it together once you have a couple threads cinched it pulls the tubing snug. In any case this caused a leak at the upper CPU fitting, but I fixed it by hand wrenching the Rotary clockwise while holding the Angle still. OMG my poor thumb is raw from the Enzotech gnurling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took awhile but I got the first 6 done.
> 
> And yes, my tubing has the plasticizer leaching from it. 6 months use and it was leaving white mark on the EK barbs as I pulled them from the tubing. That is not cool. So I can safely say that it has absolutely NOTHING to do with Killcoil since I've never run a single Killcoil in my loop and I'm pretty sure that it's not coming from the Radiator because I flushed it like a madman to make sure that none of the flux or any other bits would get caught up in my pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I woulda taken pics of my barbs ... actually just looked at one and sure enough it had a bit of plasticizer...
> Before...
> After...
> 
> As you can see the first pick there is a white mark on the barb. That's not a scratch. That's plasticizer. In the second I used my thumbnail and lightly scratched at it and you can see that it came right off. So it looks like when I replace my tubing I will not be using PrimoChill LRT. It never kinks but I cannot see using this stuff again if it's gonna leave that junk behind in my loop. Sadly there aren't many options for white tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah got it all back together and now just need to sell these awesome EK fittings to finish out my Loop with Monsoons. Sadly I kina had to wreck one to get it apart. I wrapped the crap out of it with Frog tape but my Chanel-Locs ate a big chunk of the tape up and got to the finish. I had to use another pair to grab the shorter PrimoChill tubing at the same time and counter rotate the bloody things to get any kind of rotation it was so well locked in there. I've an idea for a tool and how they can fix this so that it will never ever happen to another owner of Monsoons again. I am relatively annoyed that it happened at all tbh. But the little wrench that comes with these fittings is okay. There haas to be a better way imho. Don't get me wrong I love the look of these fittings but the plating isn't what anyone should expect for a fitting that costs $7.50 on it's own. I was being extremely anal about making sure I didn't damage my Precious. It was as if I was trying to keep the Hobbitses away from them. I let out a hair curling scream when my Chanel-Locs did that to my Precious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I get to order one more single to fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to bring up this post again, but I'm quite shocked!
> I'd been looking forward to seeing those lovely Monsoon fittings you previewed.
> I hope you'll be able to sort out all of that and get them fitting right.
> As for the Primochill, I'm not surprised about the plasticizer, it's time for you to get some better tubing. I've still got a new 20' roll of Primoflex LRT White that I won't be using, after I'd seen too many posts about issues with it.
> I bought 50' of Durelene tubing (some to spare, in case I eventually need extra!) to replace the Primochill.
> I know you want to use white tubing, and no dye in the coolant. I originally did too, but I'm going to try running Mayhems Pastel Ice White with the Durelene for a similar effect.
> Have you considered a similar option?
> Unless there's some suitable white tubing that's less problematic for you.
Click to expand...

Yeah, no I'm not considering other options if worse comes to worse I'll get some Duralene and fancy it up in some way that will look good in my system. The cost for dye over Distilled and the 24/7 nature of my loop makes dye coolant not an option. I won't be going with PrimoChill when I replace my tubing but MasterKleer and Feser make white tubing so I'll go with the lesser of two evils in that regard based on the experience of fellow Enthusiasts here which will most likely be MasterKleer. Although I am not looking forward to breaking down the loop with the Monsoon fittings being so susceptible to scratches.









Thanks for bringing it up though Commisar. Good on you for noticing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys for you who knew him Erakith aka Adam Wilson has passed away. He will be missed dearly and never forgotten. Please pray for his family in this time of need. God Bless You Adam and your loved ones.


I'm sorry that I didn't have the opportunity to know the man. But from what I've read of his reviews and posts I'm glad he had the opportunity to experience heaven before the Lord called his number. And a lesson to us all that ready or not time is fleeting. Live life to its fullest and love like it's your last day. May the road rise to meet every footstep and the wind as his back.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Funny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Needed a fix today as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talk to me about it; just ordered an ASUS Crosshair Formula V-Z Tuesday morning... I'm almost getting high just in expectation.
Click to expand...

I'm just lucky I guess., my addiction is not so bad atm.









~Ceadder


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'd have a hard time dropping that much cash on the crop circle design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you check out HK btw?


Yeah, all that silver just doesn't jive with my black/white/green theme. Strict adherence to the vision has paid off so far.

Only thing I'm unsure off is whether the acrylic fc bridge will bring too much color. I'm hoping the black back plates can offset it a bit.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Yeah, all that silver just doesn't jive with my black/white/green theme. Strict adherence to the vision has paid off so far.
> Only thing I'm unsure off is whether the acrylic fc bridge will bring too much color. I'm hoping the black back plates can offset it a bit.


Wow, first I've heard someone reject HK based on looks,







. Especially when you won't see the blocks and HK makes a *black* and much better bridge







. Well...to each their own as they say. I guess crop circles do have fans









Nvidia cards are notorious of adding a ton of tim on their cores. I usually use and "X" pattern with a "+" pattern.


----------



## Fuganater

Just saw this and I was like "what??"


----------



## teamrushpntball

What am I looking at in that picture.....


----------



## Bit_reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Just saw this and I was like "what??"


A universal HEATKILLER GPU-X block with a VRM module. Do want







Where did you find this picture??

Edit:
Looks like the proper name is HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ Core LT

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/17001

I haven't been able to find the SW-x vrm block though.


----------



## Fuganater

Random facebook page.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Yeah, all that silver just doesn't jive with my black/white/green theme. Strict adherence to the vision has paid off so far.
> Only thing I'm unsure off is whether the acrylic fc bridge will bring too much color. I'm hoping the black back plates can offset it a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, first I've heard someone reject HK based on looks,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Especially when you won't see the blocks and HK makes a *black* and much better bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Well...to each their own as they say. I guess crop circles do have fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nvidia cards are notorious of adding a ton of tim on their cores. I usually use and "X" pattern with a "+" pattern.
Click to expand...

I rejected that block on looks. They don't make the FC Block and Backplate for 6870.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bit_reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Just saw this and I was like "what??"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A universal HEATKILLER GPU-X block with a VRM module. Do want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you find this picture??
> 
> Edit:
> Looks like the proper name is HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ Core LT
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/17001
> 
> I haven't been able to find the SW-x vram block though.
Click to expand...

I don't care about the VRAM cooling, I want to know when these blocks are going to be available HERE, I been waiting and waiting to see someone carry them and haven't found a single place carrying them. But now I'm stuck with buying them from Overseas or buying CSQ blocks.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Random facebook page.


Okay... waiting for the fB page to appear and still nothing.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

Dis page: http://www.facebook.com/wcargentina?ref=stream

I can't read any of it but they have pretty pictures.


----------



## steelkevin

Is eK the only one to make plexi (or whatever it is) blocks ?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that wasn't nice on her part but I think you're just as much to blame.
> First off it's WalMart not RadioShack. So I'm not sure they even carry a Multimeter. But if they do, it would be in the Automotive Section. To my knowledge most WalMarts carry predominately end user product and not so much in troubleshooting items. Your best bet if that ever comes up again is a Hardware Store like Home Depot, Lowes, OSH, Ace Hardware or a RadioShack if you have one of those.
> Now I won't make like she did nothing wrong cause that's just insane. I worked Sales and would never in a million years no matter how busy I was shine you off like that. But if they don't carry it it's doubtful that she would've known anyway. People are getting less and less hands on as we get more and more technically advanced. Go figure. I was taught long ago to rely on my hands and only let someone else at my project if experience dictated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If in the States you can get a good Crimper and Pins from PPCs' for less than it would cost to get the MDPC tool and pins. Probably quicker too. I don't know what's going on with Nils but his listed US hours are very annoying to me cause I can never seem to catch him when I am on and when he is on, I am off. It's kina like trying to shoot fish in a barrel with a spitball. Doesn't work very well.
> The crimper that PPCs' carries is very good. But you have to know what you're doing to get solid results. People complain that it wraps the insulation crimp. I preset my pin in the correct gauge opening, crimp til it's nearly touching the pin on both sides. Insert the cable up to the insulation push a mm or two further and finish the crimp. Works every time and never have split insulation or wrapped crimping. The pin always gets the open side set into the crimp die with the compression jaw coming into contact with the closed end. Easy peasy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And never buy your cable spools online. I always buy mine from Home Depot when I'm on that side of the river doing other errands. I like being able to see the quality of the material that I may be working with before purchase. I'm not keen on buying cable online unless it's at a reputable place that I do business with and can get my money back with no hassle if the quality is less than reasonable. But I'm OCD, so take this with a huge grain of sodium chloride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


I'm glad those crimpers work for you, the one I bought at FTW PC is junk compared to MDPC. But yeah, technique is a large part of it.
For buying the 18 gauge wire, I get mine from a guy on Ebay that has good wire and good deals on 100 ft sections, including choice of colors. When I look at the prices Lowes charges it's just unreal.
Ebay name is ennis_electronics_151.

I can't believe how far I've come in sleeving compared to when I was new here and contacted wermad for advice on depinning tools.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> . Although I am not looking forward to breaking down the loop with the Monsoon fittings being so susceptible to scratches.


I know what you mean







have a couple just sitting in my desk


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, first I've heard someone reject HK based on looks,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Especially when you won't see the blocks and HK makes a *black* and much better bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Well...to each their own as they say. I guess crop circles do have fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nvidia cards are notorious of adding a ton of tim on their cores. I usually use and "X" pattern with a "+" pattern.


Oh, don't get me wrong. I'm not rejecting them on looks, as they are some of the most beautiful blocks I've ever laid eyes on. I had a potential build all planned out with nothing but aluminum aquacomputer/heatkiller rads, silver, black, clearcoated aluminum case, aquatube, mayhem's pastel grey, etc etc etc. It's just that they don't work with my current theme. If you are wearing jeans and a white/green striped casual shirt, you don't put on some crazy fancy italian leather dress shoes. You get some Addidas Sambas that are white and green to finish out the ensemble.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Oh, don't get me wrong. I'm not rejecting them on looks, as they are some of the most beautiful blocks I've ever laid eyes on. I had a potential build all planned out with nothing but aluminum aquacomputer/heatkiller rads, silver, black, clearcoated aluminum case, aquatube, mayhem's pastel grey, etc etc etc. It's just that they don't work with my current theme. If you are wearing jeans and a white/green striped casual shirt, you don't put on some crazy fancy italian leather dress shoes. *You get some Addidas Sambas* that are white and green to finish out the ensemble.


No,you get a nice pair of Globes or DVS....

How the Z77 looks before the loop goes in....










Got the bridge to do (nice cover lined up for that) and then its bending pipe all over again...
This one is going to look clean and tidy.


----------



## lowfat

OMG. That universal HK block w/ the VRM attachment is brilliant.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys,

If any of you have an ASRock Extreme7/9 motherboard and you have been dreaming of a custom water block solution for your board then please post your desires in this thread.

MIPS says that if they can get 10-20 fixed pre-orders, then they will make a block for those two boards.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Hanoverfist

Color Poll now with Actual Samples.







..Cast your Vote.. *HERE*


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys,
> If any of you have an ASRock Extreme7/9 motherboard and you have been dreaming of a custom water block solution for your board then please post your desires in this thread.
> MIPS says that if they can get 10-20 fixed pre-orders, then they will make a block for those two boards.
> Jeffinslaw


Which chip set series? Ive been wanting one for my X79 extreme 9 for a while. Or are you referring to z77?


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I use them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Most cases ppl will run splitters to connect multiple fans to a controller's channel. You splice the wires using some simple soldering skills. Or, buy a fan hub:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any good fan hubs? Or is it better to get the Y-splitters (any suggestions for the large Y splitters)?


----------



## Michalius

I've had good success with the Bitspower hubs.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm using the BP Power Station for my led's. Works well!


----------



## tiborrr12

EK-FB ASUS M5E in action.

2 and a half hours of Prime95 on 4threads (32nm Ci5 2500K) @ 5000MHz, 1.42Vcore. Hottest part of the PCB didn't exceed 40°C - measured with IR thermometer.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> OMG. That universal HK block w/ the VRM attachment is brilliant.


Look in "spare parts" the VRM block is there. I haven't yet figured out which push-ins to get to connect the Universal to the VRM block but it looks like those are not one piece connectors. Nor should they be due to the space between the GPU chip and the VRM on every Graphics Card. So it looks like you'd need to buy push in fittings and tubing to connect them up. My only problem with that set up is that the RAM needs some kind of heatsink on them and doing the watercooled VRAM prohibits the use of a full coverage Heatsink such as the ones Swiftech manufactures.









I just don't feel like spending $200 on Universal Blocks having them shipped from Europe. Heck it would be more with the additional VRM blocks. Shipping from Europe sucks.









~Ceadder


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,you get a nice pair of Globes or DVS....
> How the Z77 looks before the loop goes in....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bridge to do (nice cover lined up for that) and then its bending pipe all over again...
> This one is going to look clean and tidy.


That build is absolutely beautiful. It's going to look even better when the solid tube loop goes in. The one thing I can't stand though is where they put the power plugs on the GPU's. I wonder why they couldn't move them close to the back of the card like they normally do.


----------



## wermad

This was dropped off today


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That build is absolutely beautiful. It's going to look even better when the solid tube loop goes in. The one thing I can't stand though is where they put the power plugs on the GPU's. I wonder why they couldn't move them close to the back of the card like they normally do.


It is the end of the card,the stock heatsink takes up the extra length.
They do look small without the shroud...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Look in "spare parts" the VRM block is there. I haven't yet figured out which push-ins to get to connect the Universal to the VRM block but it looks like those are not one piece connectors. Nor should they be due to the space between the GPU chip and the VRM on every Graphics Card. So it looks like you'd need to buy push in fittings and tubing to connect them up. My only problem with that set up is that the RAM needs some kind of heatsink on them and doing the watercooled VRAM prohibits the use of a full coverage Heatsink such as the ones Swiftech manufactures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't feel like spending $200 on Universal Blocks having them shipped from Europe. Heck it would be more with the additional VRM blocks. Shipping from Europe sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If you look close at the pic,there are lo profile heatsinks on them,Watercool sell them but the Akasa ones are the same profile.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This was dropped off today


Gee's you ordered two T-Shirts and got two complimentary Monsta's









Them rads are so big, one day I wish I have a case that could house them.

Can't wait to see the finished Monsta build


----------



## sunset1

@wermad Sweet!! hah a couple of bedwarmers for the winter. ;> hrmmmm mod the matress.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Gee's you ordered two T-Shirts and got two complimentary Monsta's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Them rads are so big, one day I wish I have a case that could house them.
> Can't wait to see the finished Monsta build












They threw in the shirt and hat for free since the order was delayed. One thing I was expecting and I was warned by others is the "Alphacool" emblems. I would expect one side to be reversed so you can have the rad sitting in any position and the name would be right side up. Guess not. Also, it was applied a bit off....which is something that I was told happens quite a bit with Alphacool rads. I'm a little iffy using a blade to remove and correct the emblem (with a little heat from my heat gun) but I'll see what I can do








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @wermad Sweet!! hah a couple of bedwarmers for the winter. ;> hrmmmm mod the matress.


lol, these things are hilariously huge,. Can't wait for the temps to drop


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This was dropped off today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you have kids, put these in their closet. You can then honestly say 'I think there's a Monsta in your closet!'.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Isn't it amazing, they delay/stuff up an order, so they send you free advertising merchandise to wear for them









Don't get me wrong I love free stuff as well, but I don't often get anything


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> If you have kids, put these in their closet. You can then honestly say 'I think there's a Monsta in your closet!'.











You guys are making my day. Can't wait to get home and try to stuff these guys in








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Isn't it amazing, they delay/stuff up an order, so they send you free advertising merchandise to wear for them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong I love free stuff as well, but I don't often get anything


I've never gotten free stuff but the delay with the Alpahcool shipment and my emails going missing for several days, I guess they thought I was pissed. I just wanted to know when my stuff was coming. They offered, I accepted. Free shirt and hat. I'm sure 99.9999999999999999999999999999% of the ppl around me have no idea what they are


----------



## nyk20z3

Still need to change some fittings,move a tube and install some individually sleeved cables but i am for the most part done for now -


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys,
> If any of you have an ASRock Extreme7/9 motherboard and you have been dreaming of a custom water block solution for your board then please post your desires in this thread.
> MIPS says that if they can get 10-20 fixed pre-orders, then they will make a block for those two boards.
> Jeffinslaw


Just posting this again...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Which chip set series? Ive been wanting one for my X79 extreme 9 for a while. Or are you referring to z77?


It would be for the X79 chipset.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Just posting this again...
> It would be for the X79 chipset.
> Jeffinslaw


Again the AMD bunch gets left out in the cold, full-waterblock-less, solidarity of a lonely existance. Where's AMD's love peeps?


----------



## Michalius

Prior to SB, had nothing but AMD chips in my house. Only thing I buy from them is Fusion stuff for my HTPC and ones I build for family/friends. Everyone buys intel now, because most of us who buy this ridiculous hardware use it for games. Companies make these products to sell to the largest number of people possible. I'd like to see some comprehensive metrics of high end watercoolers and the chipsets/processors they use. I'd venture 5% AMD.

*edit*

Oh crap moment. My AX850 only has two PCI-E cables. I have extra cables, but there's no place to plug them in. I can't get extensions that match my sleeving. $450 on a PSU (PSU + cables) seems extravagant going up to the AX1200. What do I do!?


----------



## wermad

Went from am3 to lga1366 and I noticed a big difference. Also, I wasn't jelly of the intel blocks no more


----------



## Willhemmens

I went from a AM3+ 1090T to a 1155 3770K. Mainly because being a hardware review requires having the latest and greatest.


----------



## NostraD

Well, I started with Intel - switched to AMD and never looked back. Aside from the lack of FC blocks for AM3 boards - I'm happy. Guess I'll have to go with the universal chipset/MOSFET blocks.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Prior to SB, had nothing but AMD chips in my house. Only thing I buy from them is Fusion stuff for my HTPC and ones I build for family/friends. Everyone buys intel now, because most of us who buy this ridiculous hardware use it for games. Companies make these products to sell to the largest number of people possible. I'd like to see some comprehensive metrics of high end watercoolers and the chipsets/processors they use. I'd venture 5% AMD.
> *edit*
> Oh crap moment. My AX850 only has two PCI-E cables. I have extra cables, but there's no place to plug them in. I can't get extensions that match my sleeving. $450 on a PSU (PSU + cables) seems extravagant going up to the AX1200. What do I do!?


There's always a Seasonic 1250 for $50 less

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151109&name=Power-Supplies


----------



## wermad

Note to Alphacool: Use M4 screws and make the primary end tank w/ ports a bit longer to accommodate large fittings (ie 1/2x3/4).



There's a lot of play using the thin M3 screws and I had to loosen up the other fans to try and fit the next fan. M4 screws would have made the fans stay in perfect alignment (ie BI GTX and SR1 rads). Also, my 3/8x5/8 fittings barely clear the fans on the end tanks so I'm sure some one with larger fittings will have to consider this (different fans or angled adapters will help).

Only had time to install the fans so far









edit: also not a fan of the copper plugs but some satin black paint can cure that


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Note to Alphacool: Use M4 screws and make the primary end tank w/ ports a bit longer to accommodate large fittings (ie 1/2x3/4).
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot of play using the thin M3 screws and I had to loosen up the other fans to try and fit the next fan. M4 screws would have made the fans stay in perfect alignment (ie BI GTX and SR1 rads). Also, my 3/8x5/8 fittings barely clear the fans on the end tanks so I'm sure some one with larger fittings will have to consider this (different fans or angled adapters will help).
> 
> Only had time to install the fans so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: also not a fan of the copper plugs but some satin black paint can cure that


You should just get some Koolance or Phobya stud kits werm. I swear these things made mounting my fans on the Radiator a piece of cake.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You should just get some Koolance or Phobya stud kits werm. I swear these things made mounting my fans on the Radiator a piece of cake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nah...I have a ton of M3, M4, and 6-32 screws to put them to good use. Its a bit annoying (like the emblem thing) but its something that can be addressed quite easily. Just nit-picking this beasty.







.

I'm shy one fitting (damn!) so I'm going to have to use the wrong fittings for one run for now







Good thing I kept all those 3/8x1/2 pieces of tube


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nah...I have a ton of M3, M4, and 6-32 screws to put them to good use. Its a bit annoying (like the emblem thing) but its something that can be addressed quite easily. Just nit-picking this beasty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I'm shy one fitting (damn!) so I'm going to have to use the wrong fittings for one run for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing I kept all those 3/8x1/2 pieces of tube


What type of fittings are you using? I may have some lying around.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> What type of fittings are you using? I may have some lying around.


Thanks for the offer but I placed an order for the correct one's and they arrive on Friday. I bought two 3/8x1/2 instead of 3/8x5/8. Luckily, i have some spare 3/8x1/2 which I can use for the drain line for now. This will free up two fittings that I can use to plumb the 2nd 360. Thanks again though







. I have to say, members like you make this the best site imho


----------



## sebar

No prob, always willing help.







Love those Monsta's


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They threw in the shirt and hat for free since the order was delayed. One thing I was expecting and I was warned by others is the "Alphacool" emblems. I would expect one side to be reversed so you can have the rad sitting in any position and the name would be right side up. Guess not. Also, it was applied a bit off....which is something that I was told happens quite a bit with Alphacool rads. I'm a little iffy using a blade to remove and correct the emblem (with a little heat from my heat gun) but I'll see what I can do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Note to Alphacool: Use M4 screws and make the primary end tank w/ ports a bit longer to accommodate large fittings (ie 1/2x3/4).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot of play using the thin M3 screws and I had to loosen up the other fans to try and fit the next fan. M4 screws would have made the fans stay in perfect alignment (ie BI GTX and SR1 rads). Also, my 3/8x5/8 fittings barely clear the fans on the end tanks so I'm sure some one with larger fittings will have to consider this (different fans or angled adapters will help).
> 
> Only had time to install the fans so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: also not a fan of the copper plugs but some satin black paint can cure that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll have to be very careful straightening out that decal. I attempted to fix my "crooked" one, but it self-destructed when I tried peeling it off. No big deal as it's just a decal, but still....
> I'm going with 1/2x3/4 compression fittings, so it's going to be interesting to see the fan clearance conflict with mine.
> As for the copper plugs, I'd prefer black as well, another pet peeve I have with many plugs is that they use a straight notch rather than a hex key fitting.
Click to expand...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> You'll have to be very careful straightening out that decal. I attempted to fix my "crooked" one, but it self-destructed when I tried peeling it off. No big deal as it's just a decal, but still....
> I'm going with 1/2x3/4 compression fittings, so it's going to be interesting to see the fan clearance conflict with mine.
> As for the copper plugs, I'd prefer black as well, another pet peeve I have with many plugs is that they use a straight notch rather than a hex key fitting.


It looks like it could tare easily. I'll see what I can do with it later. I actually prefer hex plugs but if I have a low profile hex wrench for the tight spots.

Got the one in the drive bays in and there was good clearance. More than the GTX 360 but its too heavy to use the UN brackets. Used some padding for the bottom and secured it with a few cable ties.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> You'll have to be very careful straightening out that decal. I attempted to fix my "crooked" one, but it self-destructed when I tried peeling it off. No big deal as it's just a decal, but still....
> I'm going with 1/2x3/4 compression fittings, so it's going to be interesting to see the fan clearance conflict with mine.
> As for the copper plugs, I'd prefer black as well, another pet peeve I have with many plugs is that they use a straight notch rather than a hex key fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like it could tare easily. I'll see what I can do with it later. I actually prefer hex plugs but if I have a low profile hex wrench for the tight spots.
> 
> Got the one in the drive bays in and there was good clearance. More than the GTX 360 but its too heavy to use the UN brackets. Used some padding for the bottom and secured it with a few cable ties.
Click to expand...

The UN Bracket set won't support the 360 in the drive bay? Are they too flimsy? You've made a workaround for it, but I'm surprised they don't work.
Looking forward to seeing those three Monstas!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> The UN Bracket set won't support the 360 in the drive bay? Are they too flimsy? You've made a workaround for it, but I'm surprised they don't work.
> Looking forward to seeing those three Monstas!


I'm going to say the monsta is gonna be too heavy since the brackets are aluminum. I've already bent them slightly trying to bore out a larger hole. The main issue is that the brackets position the rad a bit too high in the drive bays which will interfere with the drive cage







.


----------



## wermad

Pardon the fingerprints















Barely cleared my mb's top heatsink


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pardon the fingerprints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barely cleared my mb's top heatsink


I'm pretty sure just one of those bad boys would suffice for me...if you get tired of having all three. (Just want to put that out there).








Good work, looks awesome!


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pardon the fingerprints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barely cleared my mb's top heatsink


OMG that is AWESOME.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pardon the fingerprints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barely cleared my mb's top heatsink


Not many cases would allow enough mb clearance for a top-mounted 360 monsta. With the fans, yet!
The front bay mounted 360 looks like it's made for it. Are those R4's on the front?
Excellent job!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I'm pretty sure just one of those bad boys would suffice for me...if you get tired of having all three. (Just want to put that out there).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good work, looks awesome!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> OMG that is AWESOME.


















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Not many cases would allow enough mb clearance for a top-mounted 360 monsta. With the fans, yet!
> The front bay mounted 360 looks like it's made for it. Are those R4's on the front?
> Excellent job!


yes, R4s green led. Im seriously thinking of getting some Corsair HP down the road.

I had to mod my fan controller to squeeze it between the hdd cage


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Can you use Ice Dragon NanoFluid 24/7 in your loop? I won't be using my computer 24/7 but is it safe to use as a coolant for regular usage, not just "show liquid"?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This was dropped off today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OOOH!!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Also, it was applied a bit off....which is something that I was told happens quite a bit with Alphacool rads. I'm a little iffy using a blade to remove and correct the emblem (with a little heat from my heat gun) but I'll see what I can do


Be very Careful .. I ripped mine trying the Same thing. Good Luck.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-FB ASUS M5E in action.
> 2 and a half hours of Prime95 on 4threads (32nm Ci5 2500K) @ 5000MHz, 1.42Vcore. Hottest part of the PCB didn't exceed 40°C - measured with IR thermometer.


When will we (I) be able to buy your EK-FB ASUS M5E blocks? I've got the cash and am just waiting to pull the trigger!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Be very Careful .. I ripped mine trying the Same thing. Good Luck.


It looks too fragile. Going to leave like that. Might just print an Alphacool logo and stick on there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Be very Careful .. I ripped mine trying the Same thing. Good Luck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks too fragile. Going to leave like that. Might just print an Alphacool logo and stick on there.
Click to expand...

Is it a metal or plastic decal? If it's metal you could take some wax paper tape it to the Rad with some frog tape on the fin side with the caps in place to hold water to keep the internals from being damaged and hold an iron to the decal that should warm up the glue enough for it to come away from the surface without destroying it.

Then mark out the exact spacing as level as you can and reapply it. You might have to use some contact cement or epoxy to put it back but if it's metal shouldn't even be an issue.









Now obviously I don't know, so this is just a suggestion based on logic if it is metal. If it's plastic, well there ya go.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is it a metal or plastic decal? If it's metal you could take some wax paper tape it to the Rad with some frog tape on the fin side with the caps in place to hold water to keep the internals from being damaged and hold an iron to the decal that should warm up the glue enough for it to come away from the surface without destroying it.
> Then mark out the exact spacing as level as you can and reapply it. You might have to use some contact cement or epoxy to put it back but if it's metal shouldn't even be an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now obviously I don't know, so this is just a suggestion based on logic if it is metal. If it's plastic, well there ya go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If i remember right,its a metal foil with a vinyl overlay,the vinyl comes away quite well but the metal foil bonds to the rad and gets ripped away.


----------



## JohnnyEars

My 240 monsta has one logo that's peeling, luckily it's on the "wrong" side.. I've seen the logo's for sale separately somewhere but can't find where atm


----------



## TheNovice

Hi all,

Absolutely loving this thread - so much usefull information! Thanks....

Looking for a full cover water block for use on a ASUS ENGTX560 TI DCII TOP/2DI/1GD5 card.
I have found several universal waterblocks - but no luck finding full cover water blocks.

Any suggestions to where/if i can find a full cover water block?

\M


----------



## Fuganater

I really don't understand the whole thing behind the monsta rads... they are way too big IMO.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Note to Alphacool: Use M4 screws and make the primary end tank w/ ports a bit longer to accommodate large fittings (ie 1/2x3/4).
> 
> There's a lot of play using the thin M3 screws and I had to loosen up the other fans to try and fit the next fan. M4 screws would have made the fans stay in perfect alignment (ie BI GTX and SR1 rads). Also, my 3/8x5/8 fittings barely clear the fans on the end tanks so I'm sure some one with larger fittings will have to consider this (different fans or angled adapters will help).
> Only had time to install the fans so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: also not a fan of the copper plugs but some satin black paint can cure that


My 2xUT60's had 4 screw threads total mucked up right off.







I don't like these thin screws, and the threads are so loose it's unreal. After I pulled every thing to reconfigure the fans another one stripped and just barely holds on.
I was going to rethread them 6-32 but I discovered I didn't have a bottom tap that size. Maybe I'll follow Ceadderman's suggestion to get a stud kit, I'll be pulling the pedestal apart sometime in the near future to test some new drop in rad mounts.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Can you use Ice Dragon NanoFluid 24/7 in your loop? I won't be using my computer 24/7 but is it safe to use as a coolant for regular usage, not just "show liquid"?
> Jeffinslaw


Yes, I do. Also I know some others that do as well.


----------



## tiborrr12

http://www.ekwb.com/news/275/19/EK-releases-new-DDC-X-RES-CSQ-series-reservoirs/


----------



## litoralis

About to build a 240mm + 240mm loop in a Antec P280.

My Build Log
http://www.overclock.net/t/1316814/build-log-antec-p280-240mm-liquid-cooled

I have last minute questions,

First, what are the metals inside the XSPC ex240 radiator?

Cooling
Radiator 1: Danger Den Black Ice Xtreme II 240mm (circa 2009, but never used)
Radiator 2: XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Copper / Brass Radiator (New)
Reservoir: Danger Den 5 1/4" Single Bay Reservoir (circa 2009, but never used)
Pump Jingway 1200 pump. 12V 1.8A (AKA: EK-DCP 4.0 Pump and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro) (circa 2009, but never used)
CPU Block: Apogee GTZ (circa 2009, but never used)

*PrimoFlex Pro LRT Green 1/2"x3/4" Tubing 10-Foot (circa 2009, but never used) This scares me over plasticizing issues)*

GPU: Gigabyte GTX 670 OC 2gb Windforce
Proposed GPU block :HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680 Hole Edition Waterblock - #15521
*Which metal do I want to buy for my GPU Block?*

Petra'sTech PT_Nuke -PHN Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
Silver KillCoil
Distilled Water.

Proposed addition of Sierra Brand Low Toxicity Propylene Glycol AntiFreeze at 10% by volume to lubricate my loud pump.

Questions:

What are the metals inside the XSPC ex240 radiator? Do I have a problem mixing metals in the DangerDen and XSPC radiators and Apogee GTZ block and future GPU block?
What should I use for anti corrosive?
Should I add the Sierra Brand Low Toxicity Propylene Glycol AntiFreeze at 10% by volume?
Which metal do I want to buy for my GPU Block?
Can I perform a 12v to 7v Molex Mod to the Jingway 1200 pump. 12V 1.8A (AKA: EK-DCP 4.0 Pump and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro)? I understrand it might need 10v to power up, I will test on my own in a few hours.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *litoralis*
> 
> About to build a 240mm + 240mm loop in a Antec P280.
> My Build Log
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1316814/build-log-antec-p280-240mm-liquid-cooled
> I have last minute questions,
> First, what are the metals inside the XSPC ex240 radiator?
> Cooling
> Radiator 1: Danger Den Black Ice Xtreme II 240mm (circa 2009, but never used)
> Radiator 2: XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Copper / Brass Radiator (New)
> Reservoir: Danger Den 5 1/4" Single Bay Reservoir (circa 2009, but never used)
> Pump Jingway 1200 pump. 12V 1.8A (AKA: EK-DCP 4.0 Pump and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro) (circa 2009, but never used)
> CPU Block: Apogee GTZ (circa 2009, but never used)
> *PrimoFlex Pro LRT Green 1/2"x3/4" Tubing 10-Foot (circa 2009, but never used) This scares me over plasticizing issues)*
> GPU: Gigabyte GTX 670 OC 2gb Windforce
> Proposed GPU block :HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680 Hole Edition Waterblock - #15521
> *Which metal do I want to buy for my GPU Block?*
> Petra'sTech PT_Nuke -PHN Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
> Silver KillCoil
> Distilled Water.
> Proposed addition of Sierra Brand Low Toxicity Propylene Glycol AntiFreeze at 10% by volume to lubricate my loud pump.
> Questions:
> 
> What are the metals inside the XSPC ex240 radiator? Do I have a problem mixing metals in the DangerDen and XSPC radiators and Apogee GTZ block and future GPU block?
> What should I use for anti corrosive?
> Should I add the Sierra Brand Low Toxicity Propylene Glycol AntiFreeze at 10% by volume?
> Which metal do I want to buy for my GPU Block?
> Can I perform a 12v to 7v Molex Mod to the Jingway 1200 pump. 12V 1.8A (AKA: EK-DCP 4.0 Pump and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro)? I understrand it might need 10v to power up, I will test on my own in a few hours.


1. Brass and copper.
2. An Anti corrosive? Google it.
3. No.
4. Copper
5. Perhaps,easier to hook it up to a fan controller tho.

Block finished and fitted.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Good lord that kid's gonna wet himself!


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/275/19/EK-releases-new-DDC-X-RES-CSQ-series-reservoirs/


CSQ is starting to really grow on me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Good lord that kid's gonna wet himself!












Its going to look killer with the chrome,the rest of the gear cant come soon enough!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, that's the first thing CSQ that has me saying "Wow."


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Block finished and fitted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: piccy!


Moar carbon fiber!







Yellow build... Reminds me the one I wanted to do, before I had to halt :/
Keep up the good work!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Almost feel like you should do bright yellow pastel coolant B...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Almost feel like you should do bright yellow pastel coolant B...


XSPC have something in the pipeline so who knows.......

Yellow is the way forward with this i think too.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Block finished and fitted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome Photo..


----------



## steelkevin

Just dropping this here since people are talking about Monstas:
Aquatuning actually mentions them as *Phobya Monsta* for some reason but they do stock them.

I was trying to find them in France and I just couldn't understand how Aquatuning wouldn't be carrying them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Just dropping this here since people are talking about Monstas:
> Aquatuning actually mentions them as *Phobya Monsta* for some reason but they do stock them.
> I was trying to find them in France and I just couldn't understand how Aquatuning wouldn't be carrying them.


As far as im aware,they are all the same company.
Dont quote me on that tho...


----------



## lowfat

Changed the tubing up a bit. Pretty much the only work I've done on the rig in a month.


----------



## nyk20z3

That tubing looks crazy.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As far as im aware,they are all the same company.
> Dont quote me on that tho...


Aquatuning and Phobya are definitely the same but alphacool ? I really don't know about that.


----------



## sebar

Very nice build lowfat, the cables and tubing look amazing.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Changed the tubing up a bit. Pretty much the only work I've done on the rig in a month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Matched sleeving for cables and tubing... My brain kinda goes "oh nice, wi..wait that's not wires?!" Yay for unusual!








Me Gusta.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Changed the tubing up a bit. Pretty much the only work I've done on the rig in a month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sharp Dressed Tubing.. Love it!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Sharp Dressed Tubing.. Love it!


every girl's crazy bout a sharp dressed....tube?


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/275/19/EK-releases-new-DDC-X-RES-CSQ-series-reservoirs/


I'm defo buying that! I was gonna get a SCQ top, but that looks pretty good. The only question is, what am I going to do with my multioption advanced RES


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Just dropping this here since people are talking about Monstas:
> Aquatuning actually mentions them as *Phobya Monsta* for some reason but they do stock them.
> I was trying to find them in France and I just couldn't understand how Aquatuning wouldn't be carrying them.


They might be the same. Here's the link for the Alphacool but from their .us site:

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p12877_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Monsta-360.html

I couldn't find the Phobya one but they have similar looking rads so I would say as well it maybe the same thing. Best bet, contact both








*
edit: I checked out the French site for aquatunning and I see a "Phobya Monsta" rad but the pics show the "Alphacool" ensign.
*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Changed the tubing up a bit. Pretty much the only work I've done on the rig in a month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Smexy


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/275/19/EK-releases-new-DDC-X-RES-CSQ-series-reservoirs/


You guys should be offering plain and CSQ tops. I find that it's bad form to drop the previous line without offering tops that will allow for piecemeal builders to keep adding to their systems. I don't want to have mismatched components. And not everyone wants the bubbles, Crop Circles or Disco look in their systems So I'm putting this out there once again. Even if it's a limited test run you guys should try offering plain tops. It would at least confirm whether or not CSQ is selling because people are sheep or not selling because in the global economy people buy piecemeal. I think that you'd be surprised what you find out.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Changed the tubing up a bit. Pretty much the only work I've done on the rig in a month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Would love to sleeve clear tubing if I could find a white sleeving that would fit 1/2" x3/4". I'd get 20 feet of that Duralene stuff and sleeve the hell out of it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/275/19/EK-releases-new-DDC-X-RES-CSQ-series-reservoirs/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm defo buying that! I was gonna get a SCQ top, but that looks pretty good. The only question is, what am I going to do with my multioption advanced RES
Click to expand...

I know huh. Bad form for EK to offer only CSQ now imho. Not all enthusiasts crap money. At least I know I don't. I know cause I checked this morning. Kept looking in the bowl for my lottery winnings. Oh well maybe tomorrow.









~Ceadder


----------



## Panickypress

Well i this is not as sophisticated as a lot of the oher computers i have seen pics of in this thread, but i'm going to show it anyway since this is my first time doing a full water cooled build... this is actually the same hardware i have used for quite some time, but i finally got around to add blocks to other things than the cpu.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You guys should be offering plain and CSQ tops. I find that it's bad form to drop the previous line without offering tops that will allow for piecemeal builders to keep adding to their systems. I don't want to have mismatched components.
> ~Ceadder


Agreed. I want to add another videocard to my loop and I can't because I can't find matching blocks.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Bad form for EK to offer only CSQ now imho.
> ~Ceadder


What is CSQ? Plain?








Quote:


> Not all enthusiasts crap money. At least I know I don't.


Neither do I. Most of the time I can only buy one part at a time and it's digging a hole in my budget faster than a mole.

@Panickypress: Nice! Very nice!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Bad form for EK to offer only CSQ now imho.
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is CSQ? Plain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Not all enthusiasts crap money. At least I know I don't.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Neither do I. Most of the time I can only buy one part at a time and it's digging a hole in my budget faster than a mole.
> 
> @Panickypress: Nice! Very nice!
Click to expand...

No EK CSQ blocks have Circles cut into the tops during the milling process and they gave em a little silver medallion that has EK engraved in them. They wouldn't be too bad if they didn't clash with my system like a $3 Prostitute at the Debutant ball. But they do and no way no how am I going to pay good money to make my system clash. Really cheeses me off but I'm basically screwed. Hell I even painted the access plate on my FC block so that it would blend with my color scheme. So what I could do to blend them, I cannot do because I'm not spending top shelf money for bottom shelf looks.









~Ceadder


----------



## Panickypress

It's not that bad, the "silver medalion" is a sticker you can take off.. and the circles...

They are not that bad next to the old design... ok, a little but not THAT bad


----------



## AMC

Sooo many nice mods.


----------



## Tarnix

Okay, I'm not sure I got it...
This is the CSQ design?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They wouldn't be too bad if they didn't clash with my system like a $3 Prostitute at the Debutant ball.
> ~Ceadder










''''''''


----------



## Hanoverfist

........ Orange Flavored GTX 360


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Hanover,can you edit your last post rather than double posting? Thanks mate.


----------



## wermad

Ek's previous design was pretty nice looking. I'm not fully convinced on the CSQ design. Its bad enough I have to get the bubbles out of loop that i have to stare at more
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> My 2xUT60's had 4 screw threads total mucked up right off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't like these thin screws, and the threads are so loose it's unreal. After I pulled every thing to reconfigure the fans another one stripped and just barely holds on.
> I was going to rethread them 6-32 but I discovered I didn't have a bottom tap that size. Maybe I'll follow Ceadderman's suggestion to get a stud kit, I'll be pulling the pedestal apart sometime in the near future to test some new drop in rad mounts.


Yeah, i hate these skinny M3s. I would imagine re-tapping them in M4 threads would not be too difficult.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ........ Orange Flavored GTX 360


Looking orange-licious.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *litoralis*
> 
> About to build a 240mm + 240mm loop in a Antec P280.
> 
> My Build Log
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1316814/build-log-antec-p280-240mm-liquid-cooled
> 
> I have last minute questions,
> 
> First, what are the metals inside the XSPC ex240 radiator?
> 
> Cooling
> Radiator 1: Danger Den Black Ice Xtreme II 240mm (circa 2009, but never used)
> Radiator 2: XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Copper / Brass Radiator (New)
> Reservoir: Danger Den 5 1/4" Single Bay Reservoir (circa 2009, but never used)
> Pump Jingway 1200 pump. 12V 1.8A (AKA: EK-DCP 4.0 Pump and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro) (circa 2009, but never used)
> CPU Block: Apogee GTZ (circa 2009, but never used)
> 
> *PrimoFlex Pro LRT Green 1/2"x3/4" Tubing 10-Foot (circa 2009, but never used) This scares me over plasticizing issues)*
> 
> GPU: Gigabyte GTX 670 OC 2gb Windforce
> Proposed GPU block :HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680 Hole Edition Waterblock - #15521
> *Which metal do I want to buy for my GPU Block?*
> 
> Petra'sTech PT_Nuke -PHN Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
> Silver KillCoil
> Distilled Water.
> 
> Proposed addition of Sierra Brand Low Toxicity Propylene Glycol AntiFreeze at 10% by volume to lubricate my loud pump.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 
> 
> Can I perform a 12v to 7v Molex Mod to the Jingway 1200 pump. 12V 1.8A (AKA: EK-DCP 4.0 Pump and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro)? I understrand it might need 10v to power up, I will test on my own in a few hours.


Do your self a favor if you like a quiet PC and stay away from that pump. I hated mine, even running it at it's lowest RPM it is loud and not a very pleasant noise.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Hi all,
> Absolutely loving this thread - so much usefull information! Thanks....
> Looking for a full cover water block for use on a ASUS ENGTX560 TI DCII TOP/2DI/1GD5 card.
> I have found several universal waterblocks - but no luck finding full cover water blocks.
> Any suggestions to where/if i can find a full cover water block?
> \M


As far as I could find, there isn't a full cover block for that particular card. Seems you'll have to go universal block and heatsinks...or...sell that card and buy one that has a full cover block.

This seems to be the most popular option for your card:
http://www.swiftech.com/gtx560-ti-hs.aspx


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hanover,can you edit your last post rather than double posting? Thanks mate.


Got it.. sorry.. Thanks..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Do your self a favor if you like a quiet PC and stay away from that pump. I hated mine, even running it at it's lowest RPM it is loud and not a very pleasant noise.










i had two in my MM build and they were pretty quiet. Jingways are really under-appreciated pumps. I'm suspecting you had a bad one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had two in my MM build and they were pretty quiet. Jingways are really under-appreciated pumps. I'm suspecting you had a bad one.


For what you pay,the Jingway is a bargain,bit noisy but performs ok.

Cant expect much from the cheapest pump on the market.


----------



## Willhemmens

The main thing that annoys me about the CSQ design is the frosting on all of the blocks, I think it's ugly. I which I could get some without the frosting. If I could, I would buy a new set of blocks straight way.

When I'm running Aurora or a a bright coloured coolant in my system I want to see it.

I wish they still did these:


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Do your self a favor if you like a quiet PC and stay away from that pump. I hated mine, even running it at it's lowest RPM it is loud and not a very pleasant noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had two in my MM build and they were pretty quiet. Jingways are really under-appreciated pumps. I'm suspecting you had a bad one.
Click to expand...

Two? First was RMA'ed as it was a bad one that had a lot of wear in only a few month's. But loud will will very from person to person.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had two in my MM build and they were pretty quiet. Jingways are really under-appreciated pumps. I'm suspecting you had a bad one.
> 
> 
> 
> For what you pay,the Jingway is a bargain,bit noisy but performs ok.
> 
> Cant expect much from the cheapest pump on the market.
Click to expand...

Yep, performs great, and you are right the price is very good. I just did want him walking in to it thinking it was a quiet performer.


----------



## Tarnix

Aah, the time where not everything had to me square.
Edit: had an afterthought for mobile users.
Pic instead:


I don't understand the enterprise's decision to switch to unpolished (non-clear) tops with no clear option.

what about fluid purity checking? (although the res is better for that)
I like to see through, like Willhemmens said.
Honestly I think it looks a lot less ballin'.


----------



## Willhemmens

I Actually found a place still selling that exact model Supreme HF.Pretty tempted to get it to replace this full Nickel Supreme HF.

Edit: It's gone









There is this though. I always quite liked the LTX but went with the Supreme HF for performance reasons. I find myself becoming less and less worried about performance and more nice aesthetics.


----------



## Michalius

I don't know, I find this incredibly alluring.



I prefer the frosted and CSQ, honestly.


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> As far as I could find, there isn't a full cover block for that particular card. Seems you'll have to go universal block and heatsinks...or...sell that card and buy one that has a full cover block.
> This seems to be the most popular option for your card:
> http://www.swiftech.com/gtx560-ti-hs.aspx


Thanks NostraD...

Looks like i'll have to go for a universal block for now.
The Swiftech is not compatible with my specific card.
I plan on getting a full cover block with a new 7xx series card when they are eventually launched.

\M


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I don't know, I find this incredibly alluring.
> 
> I prefer the frosted and CSQ, honestly.


That's certainly nice but personally I feel it would look so much nicer without the frosting and with graphics on.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Two? First was RMA'ed as it was a bad one that had a lot of wear in only a few month's. But loud will will very from person to person.
> Yep, performs great, and you are right the price is very good. I just did want him walking in to it thinking it was a quiet performer.


Dual loop







Mine were pretty quiet. Then again, I had ~25 fans in that build









I don't like the CSQ frosted plexi. Makes you think that EK doesn't want you to notice any "discrepancies" (if any). The EK rep/member said you can still see the nickel through the frosted/glazed plexi. I haven't seen one in person but the numerous pics I have seen really don't convince me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Two? First was RMA'ed as it was a bad one that had a lot of wear in only a few month's. But loud will will very from person to person.
> Yep, performs great, and you are right the price is very good. I just did want him walking in to it thinking it was a quiet performer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dual loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine were pretty quiet. Then again, I had ~25 fans in that build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't like the CSQ frosted plexi. Makes you think that EK doesn't want you to notice any "discrepancies" (if any). The EK rep/member said you can still see the nickel through the frosted/glazed plexi. I haven't seen one in person but the numerous pics I have seen really don't convince me.
Click to expand...

If you run dye, I fail to see how you will see any nickel flaking in those blocks. Before when they had the Universal Bridge Series I would have liked an understated acrylic bridge. The new bridges aren't understated. The stick out like a sore thumb. Part of the allure for me with water cooling was that people saw my system as a whole. Those circles focus my eye on the water cooling. And yes I am OCD and I notice the little things more than most, I'm reasonably sure that the first thing people notice are those damned circles.

Appreciate the heads up that the medallion is a sticker. Even more of a reason that I don't want em in my system.









~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> The main thing that annoys me about the CSQ design is the frosting on all of the blocks, I think it's ugly. I which I could get some without the frosting. If I could, I would buy a new set of blocks straight way.
> When I'm running Aurora or a a bright coloured coolant in my system I want to see it.
> I wish they still did these:


My CPU block cracked not too long ago. Thankfully EK makes replacement tops for those acrylic Supreme's. Otherwise I would have been stuck with a frosted block.

Had EK made those crop circles on unfrosted acrylic, it wouldn't be so bad.


----------



## Michalius

To each their own.

I think there's some serious confirmation bias going on with a lot of people towards EK. That kind of irrational thinking drives me nuts.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I don't know, I find this incredibly alluring.
> 
> I prefer the frosted and CSQ, honestly.


That is the only thing that makes me wanna go SLI, been saving up might get it by next month... I hope...
WC is bad for your pocket


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> The main thing that annoys me about the CSQ design is the frosting on all of the blocks, I think it's ugly. I which I could get some without the frosting. If I could, I would buy a new set of blocks straight way.
> When I'm running Aurora or a a bright coloured coolant in my system I want to see it.
> I wish they still did these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


true that! I have that Supreme CPU block with the plexi top which I love, but there are no clear plexi GPU blocks out there so I think I'm going to have to paint it black and buy black acetal GPU block so it will look some what OK, which is a damn shame tbh


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> To each their own.
> 
> I think there's some serious confirmation bias going on with a lot of people towards EK. That kind of irrational thinking drives me nuts.


I think that there is too much owner bias. Would you even say the same thing if you owned something else? Doubtful.

My bias is based on their CAD designs. A good business will NEVER scrap their CAD files. They can't tailor for everyone? Mips is willing to build a block for x79 boards on 10-20 opportunities to make a sale. I'm relatively sure they'll sell that as long as the word is spread and people realize they'll be able to get a block for their Motherboard so they can get extreme in their Clocking.

This is my problem with EK. They KNOW that 80% of enthusiast coolers don't like the CSQ. Most people buy CSQ cause they got no other choice if they wish to stick with EK. I don't want no damned frosting on my Acrylic. I don't want no damned circles on my blocks.

It's not confirmation bias that I'm spreading here. Its FAIL bias. I'm glad you like your CSQ blocks. It would be pointless to buy and keep them if you didn't.

But please don't judge my bias on sheeple principles. They could offer alternative covers to the masses if they wanted to. It's not that much more cost if at all. They have the designs so it's not like they have to start from scratch. That's all I'm saying and yes the Nickel issue is going to play a part in a buyer's bias. It's not like the Nickel issue happened 3 or 4 series runs ago. So confirmation bias my eye. If I'm paying the money you damned right I'm gonna have some kind of bias until EK has had a couple series go without a Nickel issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think that there is too much owner bias. Would you even say the same thing if you owned something else? Doubtful.
> My bias is based on their CAD designs. A good business will NEVER scrap their CAD files. They can't tailor for everyone? Mips is willing to build a block for x79 boards on 10-20 opportunities to make a sale. I'm relatively sure they'll sell that as long as the word is spread and people realize they'll be able to get a block for their Motherboard so they can get extreme in their Clocking.
> This is my problem with EK. They KNOW that 80% of enthusiast coolers don't like the CSQ. Most people buy CSQ cause they got no other choice if they wish to stick with EK. I don't want no damned frosting on my Acrylic. I don't want no damned circles on my blocks.
> It's not confirmation bias that I'm spreading here. Its FAIL bias. I'm glad you like your CSQ blocks. It would be pointless to buy and keep them if you didn't.
> But please don't judge my bias on sheeple principles. They could offer alternative covers to the masses if they wanted to. It's not that much more cost if at all. They have the designs so it's not like they have to start from scratch. That's all I'm saying and yes the Nickel issue is going to play a part in a buyer's bias. It's not like the Nickel issue happened 3 or 4 series runs ago. So confirmation bias my eye. If I'm paying the money you damned right I'm gonna have some kind of bias until EK has had a couple series go without a Nickel issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


1) Don't own them.

2) Using the nickel problem as a reason for why they are now using frosted glass is the kind of thought I'm talking about when I say confirmation bias. They know the problem was there, now any change is a result of it. That's faulty logic.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you don't like EK,don't buy it. Its their design choice,they are trying to create brand identity away from the older design that was gaining poor press.
There are many options out there instead that cater for a minimalist style.
Walls of text every few weeks is not going to change that.

Im interested where the 80% came from tho.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> 1) Don't own them.
> 2) Using the nickel problem as a reason for why they are now using frosted glass is the kind of thought I'm talking about when I say confirmation bias. They know the problem was there, now any change is a result of it. That's faulty logic.


I'm running two of their nickel fc590s. I never had an issue with their performance nor their looks. I had an issue with their customer service through "Nickel Gate". I had *seven* blocks failed on me. Before CSQ launched, I had no problem considering an EK block for a say a 7970 or 580. I like their bridges systems; though complex, they add a good amount of rigidity. CSQ launched, and I was like WT----effitttiffffffffff. I'm planning (if the wifey doesn't fine out







) a gpu upgrade down the road. Really liked the 7970s, so three or four would be nice. EK is one of the few that makes a quad bridge. Its gonna be super hard to find the old 7970 blocks since they launched CSQ. I'm glad AC and HK (confirmed via email) they have a great bridge system for triple or quad.

Bottom line: I don't like the looks of the CSQ. It reminds of the of the Bangle-Butt BMW(s). Some liked them and plenty of them bought them. But they really have toned it down due to the criticism. I hope EK will consider this and offer an option without the crop circles. Even without this design, the blocks would still look good. Like MIPS, done purposely and beautifully. I don't mind a logo here and there. But the complaints I have heard on the forums have not been in favor and few (like yourself) like it. That's fine...there's always fans of the Bangle Butt BMW, nah?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

And it grows...

just ordered my newest rad for my Azza 9000
decided to go with an Alpha cool Monsta 480 rad
now just have buy the square tubing i need to make my 2inch
addition to the top of the case.

RX360 on the bottom and Monsta 480 on top..Azza 9000 aka
"Big Case Of Death" i challenge thee







...lol..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> And it grows...
> just ordered my newest rad for my Azza 9000
> decided to go with an Alpha cool Monsta 480 rad
> now just have buy the square tubing i need to make my 2inch
> addition to the top of the case.
> RX360 on the bottom and Monsta 480 on top..Azza 9000 aka
> "Big Case Of Death" i challenge thee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...lol..


Modding is a must to fit that 480 on top, especially a Monsta. Good luck and hope she stays as original as possible and not a completely destro...I mean hacked case







. Love the Genesis 9000


----------



## socketus

yah ! you know I'll be watching, I wanna see how you do that square tubing thang, hope your lucky number works for you !


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> yah ! you know I'll be watching, I wanna see how you do that square tubing thang, hope your lucky number works for you !


i'll probally be making a detailed build log








but budget is tight right now.. probally in a month it will be on there.
ballin' on a budget at the moment...
and i won't totally destro it.lol..should match up pretty nice.
bond-o the cracks, sand,prime, airbrush, sand, clear coat, sand again
, couple more clear coats, wet sand, then wax / buff.. golden..lol
you won't even see the monsta rad and probally not even the fans
and the addition will be blended so i hope it all turns out the way i picture it.
i have a lot of plans for that build..
just hope my cash flow is as big as my imagination..lol...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, let's get the word out. If anyone has an ASRock Extreme7/9 X79 motherboard and they hate that stupid X-Fan, then send them to *this* link so they can sign up for MIPS to make a block for those two ASRock boards.
> Thanks!
> Jeffinslaw


So if I get enough pre-orders/commitments, then they would possibly create a full cover block for my MSi AMD 990FX board?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> So if I get enough pre-orders/commitments, then they would possibly create a full cover block for my MSi AMD 990FX board?


Basically a manufacturer (whether a company or an independent enthusiast like Nate) needs to secure enough orders and interest to justify all the manufacturing expenses plus a little for profit. Do expect to pay a bit more (compared to available mb blocks) since the cost cannot be spread over hundreds or thousands of units to justify a lower price per unit. I guess that premium can be said is "exclusivity".


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Basically a manufacturer (whether a company or an independent enthusiast like Nate) needs to secure enough orders and interest to justify all the manufacturing expenses plus a little for profit. Do expect to pay a bit more (compared to available mb blocks) since the cost cannot be spread over hundreds or thousands of units to justify a lower price per unit. I guess that premium can be said is "exclusivity".


Indeed it can. I signed up yesterday for the block myself. Id love to have one since I plan on keeping this same setup for quite sometime. And that southbridge fan is pretty loud. I hope more ASrock users will join the list so we can get the ball rolling.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Indeed it can. I signed up yesterday for the block myself. Id love to have one since I plan on keeping this same setup for quite sometime. And that southbridge fan is pretty loud. I hope more ASrock users will join the list so we can get the ball rolling.


Amen, that fan drives me crazy. I know we have more users that use these boards, we need to get them posting!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## sebar

Hey guys, I got some new stuff in the mail today.
RX240, XSPC Razer Waterblock, Some red LED's and a new fitting to attach my tube res to the pumptop.








This will be going into the PS07.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you don't like EK,don't buy it. Its their design choice,they are trying to create brand identity away from the older design that was gaining poor press.
> There are many options out there instead that cater for a minimalist style.
> Walls of text every few weeks is not going to change that.
> 
> Im interested where the 80% came from tho.


I think you're missing the point. I can't buy something else unless I take a loss on the blocks I own to get something else because I don't want multiple blocks of different manufacture.

All I'm saying is that they really should consider making a plain top that resembles the previous series.

And you don't have to look far to find that 80% that isn't happy with the new look of those blocks. Pretty much every Enthusiast site(their consumer base) has an 80% or better disapproval rate.

Sure the blocks are growing on some people but I wouldn't expect it to be any other way so long as EK refuses to take care of their customers by offering a plain top. But I won't start naming sites and linking them because doing so is against the TOS of OCN.









But offering the ability to make plain top covers for the CSQ blocks would solve better than 50% of their disapproval rating with the Enthusiast crowd. That's 100% of their market. I fail to see how this could be bad for them. They would have the opportunity to make their lost consumers happy.

Sorry if people don't agree, I'm not trying to be the spokes person for everyone but someone already modded their Supremacy top to get rid of those fugly circles and the frosted look. Did you notice how many people chimed in that they would be willing to buy THAT from EK? There is a niche to fill that they just abandoned.









~Ceadder


----------



## PTCB

I'm in that 80%.


----------



## wsjackson5

My very first water cooling set up, installed a few days ago.




XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
XSPC EX240 Multiport Radiator
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Reservoir
MCP55 Pump
1/2" X 5/8" Tygon Tubing with Compression Fittings


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wsjackson5*
> 
> My very first water cooling set up, installed a few days ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> XSPC EX240 Multiport Radiator
> Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Reservoir
> MCP55 Pump
> 1/2" X 5/8" Tygon Tubing with Compression Fittings


Nice







. As you progress through this obsess... I mean, hobby, of water cooling, you'll refine your skills. If you can, try to shorten the tube runs a bit and see if the rad can go inside your case.

Mayhems Deep Blue in action


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think you're missing the point. I can't buy something else unless I take a loss on the blocks I own to get something else because I don't want multiple blocks of different manufacture.
> All I'm saying is that they really should consider making a plain top that resembles the previous series.
> And you don't have to look far to find that 80% that isn't happy with the new look of those blocks. Pretty much every Enthusiast site(their consumer base) has an 80% or better disapproval rate.
> Sure the blocks are growing on some people but I wouldn't expect it to be any other way so long as EK refuses to take care of their customers by offering a plain top. But I won't start naming sites and linking them because doing so is against the TOS of OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But offering the ability to make plain top covers for the CSQ blocks would solve better than 50% of their disapproval rating with the Enthusiast crowd. That's 100% of their market. I fail to see how this could be bad for them. They would have the opportunity to make their lost consumers happy.
> Sorry if people don't agree, I'm not trying to be the spokes person for everyone but someone already modded their Supremacy top to get rid of those fugly circles and the frosted look. Did you notice how many people chimed in that they would be willing to buy THAT from EK? There is a niche to fill that they just abandoned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm not knocking you,I can see why the design change bothers you if you already own EK products and want to add to them.
Most users avoid EK for the nickel issue rather than the CSQ I should imagine....im not a fan of it myself,but I would suggest that the new CSQ design is selling well regardless of the 80% hate rate claimed.
Also,It does make a change from the normal blocks of delrin so common to everyone else,this is how XSPC,koolance,watercool etc, operate and to great effect.They should of carried a supply of the older design,or build some cross compatibilty into the new design.

Either way its here to stay.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> I Actually found a place still selling that exact model Supreme HF.Pretty tempted to get it to replace this full Nickel Supreme HF.
> Edit: It's gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is this though. I always quite liked the LTX but went with the Supreme HF for performance reasons. I find myself becoming less and less worried about performance and more nice aesthetics.


Next Monday I'm going to be selling my EK Supreme HF Acrylic CPU water block, the only area effected by the missing nickel finish is under the jet plate which can't be seen and three small area along the o-ring seals, everywhere else is looking good!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I don't know, I find this incredibly alluring.
> 
> I prefer the frosted and CSQ, honestly.


At first I didn't like the frost, but when you see color added behind the frost it looks awesome! While the circles aren't the best design for most they really don't bother me to much, they have grown on me a little. It would be cool for everyone if there was an option to default back to the original design and/or perhaps a custom design of your own, then you could customize things in a whole new way!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## _REAPER_

I wanted to thank the forum for the input that was provided I have gone ahead and got all AQUAComputer because I am OCD and since I am going to only watercool my CPU I think the RAD I have purchased should do the trick. (I did finally find masterKleer tubes)

Below is what I have purchased and will be putting it together in 61 days and a bag and drag as soon as I go on an RR from Afghanistan.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But offering the ability to make plain top covers for the CSQ blocks would solve better than 50% of their disapproval rating with the Enthusiast crowd. That's 100% of their market. I fail to see how this could be bad for them. They would have the opportunity to make their lost consumers happy.
> Sorry if people don't agree, I'm not trying to be the spokes person for everyone but someone already modded their Supremacy top to get rid of those fugly circles and the frosted look. Did you notice how many people chimed in that they would be willing to buy THAT from EK? There is a niche to fill that they just abandoned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I would have been all over that... especially if I could have just gotten plain and black. Don't care for the translucent look and hate the circles. It's funny though - I totally dig their design in print (boxes, etc) - but not on the product.

I've always thought about digging out all those LEGOs that I've had packed away for the past 30 years and building a case from scratch using them... if I ever realize that dream... I can't think of anything that would fit more perfectly than the EK CSQ stuff. Just not in anything outside of a LEGO case I'm afraid.









Like this or this only watercooled and maybe even bigger.









OMG... never ran across this before...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Would the EK-Supreme LTX AMD non-CSQ give me better performance then my current Rassa block? And how much roughly?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I wanted to thank the forum for the input that was provided I have gone ahead and got all AQUAComputer because I am OCD and since I am going to only watercool my CPU I think the RAD I have purchased should do the trick. (I did finally find masterKleer tubes)
> 
> Below is what I have purchased and will be putting it together in 61 days and a bag and drag as soon as I go on an RR from Afghanistan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pure class, quality parts.
Looking forward to seeing that Airplex rad when it's done.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Definitely liking the frosted CSQ stuff more now than I did when it came out but I still prefer the clean look of my older Supreme HF and FC7970's...


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Look in "spare parts" the VRM block is there. I haven't yet figured out which push-ins to get to connect the Universal to the VRM block but it looks like those are not one piece connectors. Nor should they be due to the space between the GPU chip and the VRM on every Graphics Card. So it looks like you'd need to buy push in fittings and tubing to connect them up. My only problem with that set up is that the RAM needs some kind of heatsink on them and doing the watercooled VRAM prohibits the use of a full coverage Heatsink such as the ones Swiftech manufactures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't feel like spending $200 on Universal Blocks having them shipped from Europe. Heck it would be more with the additional VRM blocks. Shipping from Europe sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Err no bud-you have things the wrong way around, please allow me to correct you (lol):

SHIPPING FROM THE STATES SUCKS!!!!









example: 2m of Durelene total price= 2.70 USD

Shipping: 28.95 USD!!

The prosecution rests its case









(i could give many other examples, but im not into overkill C,man )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think you're missing the point. I can't buy something else unless I take a loss on the blocks I own to get something else because I don't want multiple blocks of different manufacture.
> All I'm saying is that they really should consider making a plain top that resembles the previous series.
> And you don't have to look far to find that 80% that isn't happy with the new look of those blocks. Pretty much every Enthusiast site(their consumer base) has an 80% or better disapproval rate.
> Sure the blocks are growing on some people but I wouldn't expect it to be any other way so long as EK refuses to take care of their customers by offering a plain top. But I won't start naming sites and linking them because doing so is against the TOS of OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But offering the ability to make plain top covers for the CSQ blocks would solve better than 50% of their disapproval rating with the Enthusiast crowd. That's 100% of their market. I fail to see how this could be bad for them. They would have the opportunity to make their lost consumers happy.
> Sorry if people don't agree, I'm not trying to be the spokes person for everyone but someone already modded their Supremacy top to get rid of those fugly circles and the frosted look. Did you notice how many people chimed in that they would be willing to buy THAT from EK? There is a niche to fill that they just abandoned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I remember watching this vid from the guy that owns Singularity custom PCs 'down under', he offers a very viable reason at 5:45 as to why EK have not come out with clear tops.

I like this guys honesty-especially as i think that he is sponsored by EK (im not 100 % sure).

Nevertheless its a very good review, not biased imho.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3QWajDfwew&feature=plcp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Why only 2 meters? I bought 40 which made it worth the shipping.


No mate it does not work that way,believe me, i tried- 40m (or feet-you didnt make that clear), goes up in postage price a hell of a lot!

So i bought 2 m to try it out

-anyway, i have found a way around that problem-i shop from another wc dealer in the States, and what he has offered to do, is order the Durelene for me @ US postal prices, then he will send it on to me here in Europe for about half the price that the Durelene dealer is charging









Btw, although what i said to Ceaderman is the truth, i wasn't having a go at him, it was more along the lines of friendly banter


----------



## tiborrr12

http://www.ekwb.com/news/276/19/EK-releases-EK-RES-X3-series-tube-reservoirs/


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Want!


----------



## NewHighScore

Some sexy teaser of my new build. Test fit


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Err no bud-you have things the wrong way around: please allow me to correct you:
> 
> SHIPPING FROM THE STATES SUCKS!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> example: 2m of Durelene total price= 2.70 USD
> 
> Shipping: 28.95 USD!!
> 
> The prosecution rests its case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i could give many other examples, but im not into overkill C,man )


Why only 2 meters? I bought 40 which made it worth the shipping.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Some sexy teaser of my new build. Test fit
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sexy indeed. Those fans look good, what are they?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Some sexy teaser of my new build. Test fit
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Too bad MSI doesn't make "Lightning" water blocks! Looks awesome!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Sexy indeed. Those fans look good, what are they?


Akasa Viper 140mm. Chose for the color and 3.? some odd static pressure








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Too bad MSI doesn't make "Lightning" water blocks! Looks awesome!


I know right? I only dream of a 680 or7970 lightning. In reality my 670 is way overkill for my gaming needs(sc2 and xcom) but it's sooo cute and wittwe.









680 lightning with waterblock would break the bank and cause the wife to take my members in my sleep


----------



## tiborrr12

@NewHighScore:
maybe this will be of use to you:
7970 Lightning water block: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-hd-7xx0-series/ek-fc7970-lightning-acetal-nickel.html
680 Lightning water block: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-6x0-series/ek-fc680-lightning-acetal-nickel.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @NewHighScore:
> maybe this will be of use to you:
> 7970 Lightning water block: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-hd-7xx0-series/ek-fc7970-lightning-acetal-nickel.html
> 680 Lightning water block: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-6x0-series/ek-fc680-lightning-acetal-nickel.html


When did you stop bundling paste with your blocks?


----------



## tiborrr12

We never bundled TIM with FC blocks, only CPU blocks (and as of lately (EK-VGA Supremacy) with GPU only blocks).


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @NewHighScore:
> maybe this will be of use to you:
> 7970 Lightning water block: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-hd-7xx0-series/ek-fc7970-lightning-acetal-nickel.html
> 680 Lightning water block: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-6x0-series/ek-fc680-lightning-acetal-nickel.html


Thanks EK_tiborrr but if you note in the last post I would like to keep my balls.









Why oh why did you have to plant the seed in muh brain?


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think you're missing the point. I can't buy something else unless I take a loss on the blocks I own to get something else because I don't want multiple blocks of different manufacture.


This ten billion times, I was at least hoping that around tax return time next year I could talk my wife into letting me pic up another 7970 and a block / bplate. Maybe I will just have to switch to a different brand and pick up a new CPU block as well.. was just expecting for the block to still be around in a year or two, considering they still have blocks for the 3xxx series on their site.

Overall it makes me 1000%, yes one thousand percent, :sadpandaonarainyday

Heck I even bought a new 9800 gtx+ block from their site(with the help of PPCs) and I don't even own a 9800 gtx+ anymore


----------



## Plutonium10

Can anyone recommend some good PWM fans to mount on a Swiftech MCR320-XP rad? I was going to run three AP-15 fans right from the fan headers of my Asus P8Z77-V for the sake of easy speed control, but then I did a bit of reading and found out that the "CPU" fan headers I want to use are only for PWM fans.


----------



## tiborrr12

Guys, keep in mind we have not forgotten about the folks that (still) don't find our CSQ attractive. You opinion is important, it's just that it cannot happen through the night.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Can anyone recommend some good PWM fans to mount on a Swiftech MCR320-XP rad? I was going to run three AP-15 fans right from the fan headers of my Asus P8Z77-V for the sake of easy speed control, but then I did a bit of reading and found out that the "CPU" fan headers I want to use are only for PWM fans.


How much are you willing to spend? You can get the Noiseblocker eLoop pwm fans but they are around $25 each.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Guys, keep in mind we have not forgotten about the folks that (still) don't find our CSQ attractive. You opinion is important, it's just that it cannot happen through the night.


The CSQ design has actually grown on me quite a bit since being released. In certain builds it works quite well but it's definitely not for everyone.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How much are you willing to spend? You can get the Noiseblocker eLoop pwm fans but they are around $25 each.


Yes, I forgot all about them. Definitely worth investigating that option...


----------



## Rickles

For me it's not even that I don't like the CSQ, it's not bad... it just wouldn't match...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mayhems Deep Blue in action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd say you matched the Mayhems quite nicely to the Tubing..


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Guys, keep in mind we have not forgotten about the folks that (still) don't find our CSQ attractive. You opinion is important, it's just that it cannot happen through the night.


Is that a hint we maybe seeing some non-CSQ design blocks? Seems unlikely to me, that's all.

Also It isn't that I don't find the CSQ design attractive, I just find your older designs more attractive and unfortunately for EK, time won't make the CSQ design more attractive to me, even though you apparently think it will.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I know right? I only dream of a 680 or7970 lightning. In reality my 670 is way overkill for my gaming needs(sc2 and xcom) but it's sooo cute and wittwe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 680 lightning with waterblock would break the bank and cause the wife to take my members in my sleep


you think that's overkill? i use my 7950 for Team Fortress 2 and the occasional C&C game. (varies from Red Alert 2 to Generals to C&C3 etc...)
and sometimes, i fire up the good old CoD (1), CoD UO and CoD 2







(and not that long ago i was playing San Andreas







)

btw, should i plunge for a Switch 810 black Non-SE (aka the glossy one) or wait for the SE one (which looks like at this point waiting forever or never arriving







) or wait till the phantom 820?


----------



## DB006

Modded Coolermaster Storm Scout, with specs as per sig.

EK Supremacy cpu block, Alphacool NexXxos 7970 block, Phobya 600lph pump, Alphacool 240 Monsta rad mounted vertically in the front with Alphacool 2000rpm PWM fans, XSPC single bay res, 1/2" tubing and a mix of 45 and straight fittings, Mayhems Rasberry purple coolant.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> you think that's overkill? i use my 7950 for Team Fortress 2 and the occasional C&C game. (varies from Red Alert 2 to Generals to C&C3 etc...)
> and sometimes, i fire up the good old CoD (1), CoD UO and CoD 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and not that long ago i was playing San Andreas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> btw, should i plunge for a Switch 810 black Non-SE (aka the glossy one) or wait for the SE one (which looks like at this point waiting forever or never arriving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or wait till the phantom 820?


Hehe I could still be playing those games on my q6600 and 4870







.

Personally I very much dislike the glossy finish. If I were you I would wait or else get the phantom 820. Only gripe I have with the phantom is the side paned with big fan. yuck!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Hehe I could still be playing those games on my q6600 and 4870
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


my old E5400 system did all of those, and i was still happy. (but now i'm even happier with my system







)
heck, i can play most of them on my crappy netbook. (with a SLOOOOOW atom, that struggles to open a new folder)

sometimes most people forget that Good Graphics / New Game isn't always a Good Game. (needless to say, that i know every word of the Red Alert 2 intro and i can repeat it without a single hiccup from the amount of times i have played it







)

Quote:


> Personally I very much dislike the glossy finish. If I were you I would wait or else get the phantom 820. Only gripe I have with the phantom is the side panel with big fan. yuck!


thanks, i guess that if i'll get the glossy 810 i'll regret it very much. (if i'm almost going crazy of a small grain of dust on the top of my Antec 1100 and a slight defect at the back of the case, which is barely noticeable to me, i'll have a problem with finger prints)

i do like the 820 for its style (which is quite unique) and i don't mind too much the side fan (could get an LED one). also some people forget how beneficial a side intake can be on the temps of everything.

only problem (besides the waiting for either of the cases) is to find a buyer for my case locally.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Window done on the Z77....



Nice OEM look to it i think.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> my old E5400 system did all of those, and i was still happy. (but now i'm even happier with my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> heck, i can play most of them on my crappy netbook. (with a SLOOOOOW atom, that struggles to open a new folder)
> sometimes most people forget that Good Graphics / New Game isn't always a Good Game. (needless to say, that i know every word of the Red Alert 2 intro and i can repeat it without a single hiccup from the amount of times i have played it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> thanks, i guess that if i'll get the glossy 810 i'll regret it very much. (if i'm almost going crazy of a small grain of dust on the top of my Antec 1100 and a slight defect at the back of the case, which is barely noticeable to me, i'll have a problem with finger prints)
> i do like the 820 for its style (which is quite unique) and i don't mind too much the side fan (could get an LED one). also some people forget how beneficial a side intake can be on the temps of everything.
> only problem (besides the waiting for either of the cases) is to find a buyer for my case locally.


I completely agree with you. Graphics definitely does not make the game but the eye candy is nice. While starcraft 2 is not the most visually stunning game when I went from playing on my i5 2500k integrated everything on low to gtx 670 everything maxed it became visually stunning.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Window done on the Z77....
> 
> Nice OEM look to it i think.


Looks great I almost forgot it came with fan mounts


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Window done on the Z77....
> 
> Nice OEM look to it i think.


Damn, i forgot how great looking the C70 is when it has the proper window. i find it to be the best looking full metal case that has its own Character. Not very common these days








(and quite by chance, the C70 finally became available in here. considering it too for its style...)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I completely agree with you. Graphics definitely does not make the game but the eye candy is nice. While starcraft 2 is not the most visually stunning game when I went from playing on my i5 2500k integrated everything on low to gtx 670 everything maxed it became visually stunning.


i know what you mean. Red Alert 3 was always the same for me no matter the graphics, but now i can watch the water in it for hours... (i guess its a bad thing when the enemy attacks







)

Heck, i can now appreciate all of the hats properly in TF2


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Guys, keep in mind we have not forgotten about the folks that (still) don't find our CSQ attractive. You opinion is important, it's just that it cannot happen through the night.


Thank you for the update tiborrr. I hope it happens pretty soon. Are you still going to put out the Bridge Series tops? I could deal with buying a universal block and having to buy the top to mate to it. It's not the optimal scenario for me but if I had to I would do it that way. But most everyone is not carrying either at this point unless it's CSQ.









~Ceadder


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Guys, keep in mind we have not forgotten about the folks that (still) don't find our CSQ attractive. You opinion is important, it's just that it cannot happen through the night.


Good to hear that you listen to the community. Even though I'm quite new to WC and all, I came to love your company already, especialy when it comes to the design of the products. I currently have three EK products in my loop and I love them all. And even though the current CSQ design might not be my absolute favourite I have no doubt the next line of products will be that much better







Keep up the good work.


----------



## teamrushpntball

My poor poor wallet......

Order Information
Order #240937
Order Date: Friday 19 October, 2012
Products
5 x Channel Molding - Small $9.95
1 x Evercool "Thin" 80 X 15mm Case Fan- Medium Speed - Sleeved
- Sleeve Color: Black w/Yellow Tracer
- Heatshrink Color: Black $7.95
2 x Bitspower Crystal "Stop" Fitting G1/4" with O-Ring & 5mm LED Holder $5.98
1 x Bitspower Dual LED - Pre-wired with 4-Pin Connector - 5mm - White
- Cable: No changes (stock, unsleeved)
- Sleeve Color: Black
- Heatshrink Color: Black $4.99
2 x Enzotech Compression Fitting G 1/4 Thread - for 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD Tubing - Matte Black $12.98
1 x Phobya Y-Cable 3Pin Molex to 4x 3Pin Molex 60cm - Black $4.99
1 x Phobya LED Ready Twin 3mm Ultra-Bright White 30cm - Black $4.50
1 x Masterkleer Tubing PVC 13/10mm (3/8"ID) Clear 3,3m (10ft) - "Retail Package" $9.95
2 x Phobya Radiator Sealing Strip (200cm) $7.00
1 x *** NEW *** Swiftech MCP35X Series Heat Sink $14.95
1 x Phobya HeGrease Extreme 3.5g $8.95
2 x Enzotech 45 Degree Rotary Fitting - Male-Female G 1/4 Thread - Matte Black $13.98
1 x Phobya Y-Cable 3Pin Molex to 3x 3Pin Molex 60cm - Black $3.19
2 x *** NEW *** Mod/Smart 1 in. Wire Bundle Pass-Thru 4-Pack - Black $5.98
2 x *** NEW *** Enzotech 90 Degree Rotary Compression Fitting G 1/4 Thread - ID3/8 - OD1/2 - Matte Black $33.90
2 x Monsoon G1/4 Premium Silicone O-Ring 10 Pack - UV Yellow $5.98
1 x EK-FC7970 Backplate - Black CSQ $28.95
1 x Silverstone Technology TJ07 Black Aluminum Super Tower with Window (USB3.0)
- Bay Covers: Do Not Drill/Install Rocker Switches
- Power Supply (Stock): No Power Supply
- Floppy Drive: No Floppy Drive
- Case Options: Stock case
- Sleeve Color: Black
- Heatshrink Color: Black
- Case Handles: No case handles
- Aluminum 3.5: No Transfer Bracket
- Anodized Thumbscrews: Stock Silver Screws/Thumbscrews
- Casters: No Casters $329.95
1 x *** HOT *** EK-FC7970 CSQ
- Fitting Size: 3/8" Barb for 3/8" ID tube $122.95
1 x *** NEW *** Mayhems Aurora Namron Yellow Concentrate - 250ml $17.95
Sub-Total: $655.02
FedEx (Ground Home Delivery (2 days)): $44.84
Discount Coupons: FALL12-65 : -$21.13
Total: $678.73


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> My poor poor wallet......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Order Information
> Order #240937
> Order Date: Friday 19 October, 2012
> Products
> 5 x Channel Molding - Small $9.95
> 1 x Evercool "Thin" 80 X 15mm Case Fan- Medium Speed - Sleeved
> - Sleeve Color: Black w/Yellow Tracer
> - Heatshrink Color: Black $7.95
> 2 x Bitspower Crystal "Stop" Fitting G1/4" with O-Ring & 5mm LED Holder $5.98
> 1 x Bitspower Dual LED - Pre-wired with 4-Pin Connector - 5mm - White
> - Cable: No changes (stock, unsleeved)
> - Sleeve Color: Black
> - Heatshrink Color: Black $4.99
> 2 x Enzotech Compression Fitting G 1/4 Thread - for 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD Tubing - Matte Black $12.98
> 1 x Phobya Y-Cable 3Pin Molex to 4x 3Pin Molex 60cm - Black $4.99
> 1 x Phobya LED Ready Twin 3mm Ultra-Bright White 30cm - Black $4.50
> 1 x Masterkleer Tubing PVC 13/10mm (3/8"ID) Clear 3,3m (10ft) - "Retail Package" $9.95
> 2 x Phobya Radiator Sealing Strip (200cm) $7.00
> 1 x *** NEW *** Swiftech MCP35X Series Heat Sink $14.95
> 1 x Phobya HeGrease Extreme 3.5g $8.95
> 2 x Enzotech 45 Degree Rotary Fitting - Male-Female G 1/4 Thread - Matte Black $13.98
> 1 x Phobya Y-Cable 3Pin Molex to 3x 3Pin Molex 60cm - Black $3.19
> 2 x *** NEW *** Mod/Smart 1 in. Wire Bundle Pass-Thru 4-Pack - Black $5.98
> 2 x *** NEW *** Enzotech 90 Degree Rotary Compression Fitting G 1/4 Thread - ID3/8 - OD1/2 - Matte Black $33.90
> 2 x Monsoon G1/4 Premium Silicone O-Ring 10 Pack - UV Yellow $5.98
> 1 x EK-FC7970 Backplate - Black CSQ $28.95
> 1 x Silverstone Technology TJ07 Black Aluminum Super Tower with Window (USB3.0)
> - Bay Covers: Do Not Drill/Install Rocker Switches
> - Power Supply (Stock): No Power Supply
> - Floppy Drive: No Floppy Drive
> - Case Options: Stock case
> - Sleeve Color: Black
> - Heatshrink Color: Black
> - Case Handles: No case handles
> - Aluminum 3.5: No Transfer Bracket
> - Anodized Thumbscrews: Stock Silver Screws/Thumbscrews
> - Casters: No Casters $329.95
> 1 x *** HOT *** EK-FC7970 CSQ
> - Fitting Size: 3/8" Barb for 3/8" ID tube $122.95
> 1 x *** NEW *** Mayhems Aurora Namron Yellow Concentrate - 250ml $17.95
> Sub-Total: $655.02
> FedEx (Ground Home Delivery (2 days)): $44.84
> Discount Coupons: FALL12-65 : -$21.13
> Total: $678.73 [/]SPOILER


That's what TJ07's are for, spending money on them, and lots of it!








Looking forward to seeing this build:thumb:


----------



## teamrushpntball

Yep, went ahead and ordered grommets and a step bit. Going to. Cut my own wire pass throughs as I migrate out of my 600T. Will be starting a log before too long.

One question though, why does everyone go with powder coating as opposed to annodizing? Was thinking about leaving the exterior the brushed black and then having the interior fugly silver parts either annodized black, yellow, or having them gun blued.


----------



## NewHighScore

got da wittle cute wittle bwock installed today. Sure is heavy though!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Would the EK-Supreme LTX AMD non-CSQ give me better performance then my current Rassa block? And how much roughly?


Can no one help me?


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Can no one help me?


Any updated version of a block should offer a little more performance but don't expect anything crazy.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Can no one help me?


Have you checked Stren's CPU roundup? Not sure if hetested those blocks but it's worth a look.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> got da wittle cute wittle bwock installed today. Sure is heavy though!


I agwee it weawwy wooks cute o.o

On a side note, I wonder if anyone got the NZXT Phantom 820 yet, I've been looking at it and it's appealing. I would like to get some opinions as I have doubts that my Darkfleet DF-35 will make my motherboard upgrade an happy task, and it's really clusterf...'d


----------



## teamrushpntball

Looking damn nice NewHighScore, and how you enjoying those Akasa Vipers?

Ginger_nuts - I'm on my phone now so can't check foor you easily but did you look at Martin's Liquid Lab or at Stren's most recent roundup? Pretty sure Stren did not include the LTX block, but he did have the Rasa in his roundup and it was a pretty solid outlier showing that technology had advanced. All the new blocks were well ahead of it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Would the EK-Supreme LTX AMD non-CSQ give me better performance then my current Rassa block? And how much roughly?


From what I recall, EK didn't revise the Supreme LT other than the CSQ look, so there's no difference between the old and the new LT. I would say the Rasa should be slightly better. And I would recommend the Raystorm or the Apogee HD over the EK tbh. Or, if you can find one, an old Supreme HF (either rev.1 or 2).


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I agwee it weawwy wooks cute o.o
> On a side note, I wonder if anyone got the NZXT Phantom 820 yet, I've been looking at it and it's appealing. I would like to get some opinions as I have doubts that my Darkfleet DF-35 will make my motherboard upgrade an happy task, and it's really clusterf...'d


I think if you are willing to pay the price for the phantom you will be happy. It has a lot of similarities with the switch and should be of the same build quality. And I agree. Antec cases are no easy job to work in. I rebuilt my brothers in the 1200 andOMG I wanted to throw it out the window.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Looking damn nice NewHighScore, and how you enjoying those Akasa Vipers?
> Ginger_nuts - I'm on my phone now so can't check foor you easily but did you look at Martin's Liquid Lab or at Stren's most recent roundup? Pretty sure Stren did not include the LTX block, but he did have the Rasa in his roundup and it was a pretty solid outlier showing that technology had advanced. All the new blocks were well ahead of it.


Thanks teamrushpntball. I haven't set the loop up yet so I have yet to test out the vipers. Contemplating setting it up with no gpu in the mix for now as I don't have a backplate yet for that heavy wittwe guy.


----------



## ginger_nuts

OK thanks everyone, I will keep shopping, looking for a clear (see through) top block for AMD.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Yep, went ahead and ordered grommets and a step bit. Going to. Cut my own wire pass throughs as I migrate out of my 600T. Will be starting a log before too long.
> 
> One question though, why does everyone go with powder coating as opposed to annodizing? Was thinking about leaving the exterior the brushed black and then having the interior fugly silver parts either annodized black, yellow, or having them gun blued.


I'm not knowledgeable about anodizing, but it sounds like an interesting option, if you have access to a competent shop to do the anodizing. I believe the exterior of the TJ07 is anodized. It would be best to consult with the shop you would choose to do this, and see if they think it would be feasible.

I'd be interested in knowing this myself, as I also have to get my TJ interior parts done, and there aren't any competent powder-coating facilities in my immediate area. I'm considering priming and painting the parts myself, but I'm worried about the durability compared to getting it powdercoated, even if I can find a place that can be trusted to do it properly.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> OK thanks everyone, I will keep shopping, looking for a clear (see through) top block for AMD.


Very few with plexi tops. Consider performance over looks and you'll find a block quickly


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very few with plexi tops. Consider performance over looks and you'll find a block quickly


The only half nice looking Plexi I can find is Bitspower Summit EF, which is going to cost about $25 more then the Koolance CPU-370SA one which seems to be a solid performer.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Would the EK-Supreme LTX AMD non-CSQ give me better performance then my current Rassa block? And how much roughly?
> 
> 
> 
> From what I recall, EK didn't revise the Supreme LT other than the CSQ look, so there's no difference between the old and the new LT. I would say the Rasa should be slightly better. And I would recommend the Raystorm or the Apogee HD over the EK tbh. Or, if you can find one, an old Supreme HF (either rev.1 or 2).
Click to expand...

This. If you look round eBay you can find them when they're out there.









If you find a Rev. 1 Block and want Plexi I think PPCs' still has a few Plexi tops for that. I saw they had a Green top the other day and there was a couple plexi tops on eBay.









~Ceadder


----------



## teamrushpntball

Well I used to play a lot of paintball and most of the higher end guns were aluminum bodied. I remember getting them customized and annodization always looked so much nicer than powder coating unless you were going for a matte finish.

As to the shops there are a few for both. Think I will give them a call.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Well I used to play a lot of paintball and most of the higher end guns were aluminum bodied. I remember getting them customized and annodization always looked so much nicer than powder coating unless you were going for a matte finish.
> 
> As to the shops there are a few for both. Think I will give them a call.












~Ceadder


----------



## ginger_nuts

I have recently bought a pack of this awesome EK Indigo Extreme









But should I use one to mount my Rasa block? whilst I wait to save







and get a better block. It might take 2-4 weeks to save.

*OR*

Do I use Arctic Silver 5 now, and use the Indigo Extreme when I get the new block?

There is two pads in the Indigo Extreme kits, but costs approx $35 with delivery.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HarZa*
> 
> Here's my rig. Little bit copper pipe and little bit hose. Works like charm and is quiet enough in everyday use in living room.
> Still needs cleaning but thats another story.


is that a koolance drain valve? how do u find it? i just bought one. It comes acap for the drain part yeh?


----------



## captvizcenzo

Got a new look, but crossing tubes don't look nice


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> When done right, it's awesome.


what the hell did i just watch lol.


----------



## K4IKEN

Still debating if I want to go all out and WC my rig.. Decided to forgo a kit and piece together a custom loop instead, but I won't have the extra cash until income tax time. I wan't to WC soooo bad, but I really don't need to. Hmmmmm..


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Still debating if I want to go all out and WC my rig.. Decided to forgo a kit and piece together a custom loop instead, but I won't have the extra cash until income tax time. I wan't to WC soooo bad, but I really don't need to. Hmmmmm..


GOFORIT! GOFORIT!
the thing that i learnt is go all out once! if you only spend halfway, you will spend more in the future because WC is just so addictive and you just keep wanting more and better!
as I am posting I am ordering a new GPU block, heatsink for pump and I cant stop







x 1000000


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Got a new look, but crossing tubes don't look nice


Looks fine bro i love the color selection with that Matte black C70.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . As you progress through this obsess... I mean, hobby, of water cooling, you'll refine your skills. If you can, try to shorten the tube runs a bit and see if the rad can go inside your case.
> Mayhems Deep Blue in action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Looks great! Just received my Mayhems Deep Blue a few days ago. Unfortunately Sidewinder "forgot" to mail my tubing. I called them after several days and it was still sitting there with the printed shipping label......ugh! Can't wait to get it and get that Mayhem's bluie running through it....love that look!


----------



## DandyConeJellos

Just redid my loop to make it look prettier. Added an NZXT sleeved LED strip to my window so I can see if it ever starts leaking! lol


blurry photo T_T


----------



## Hanoverfist

Got home and Found This Waiting for me..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Looks great! Just received my Mayhems Deep Blue a few days ago. Unfortunately Sidewinder "forgot" to mail my tubing. I called them after several days and it was still sitting there with the printed shipping label......ugh! Can't wait to get it and get that Mayhem's bluie running through it....love that look!


Sucks mate. Hope it gets delivered soon







. You going with clear tube?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DandyConeJellos*
> 
> Just redid my loop to make it look prettier. Added an NZXT sleeved LED strip to my window so I can see if it ever starts leaking! lol
> 
> blurry photo T_T


That is very clean. Great job dude


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Got home and Found This Waiting for me..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that pump is massive.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Wow that pump is massive.


And they are pretty heavy, pretty close to weighing the same as my old XSPC 2 bay res. 750.

My re-build is taking longer then I thought. And costing a few dollars more.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> And they are pretty heavy, pretty close to weighing the same as my old XSPC 2 bay res. 750.
> My re-build is taking longer then I thought. *And costing a few dollars more*.


C'est la vie


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Got home and Found This Waiting for me..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow that pump is massive.
Click to expand...

\

Without those Heatsinks, it looks like a typical D5 to me. Only with a different top.









Looks awesome though. If I were to buy a D5 based pump that would be the one I'd get. Looks like it gets good flow too from what I saw of it on PPCs' site.









~Ceadder


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Looks fine bro i love the color selection with that Matte black C70.


Thanks.








I think that's it for now, will redo the loop next year.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> When done right, it's awesome.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: vid


Me and a friend:
Quote:


> [2:30:10 AM] ღℒℴŧųşღ: why would you drill a hole in your floor just to put the cooling system to your pc there?
> [2:30:25 AM] Tarnix: because you can.


----------



## Systemlord

The D5's run barely warm, but this thing has major heat sinks attached to it. The maximum head pressure is 24.6ft, this might be the answer to the Swiftech 35X! This thing must heat things up quite a bit!


----------



## _REAPER_

Just got my new back piece cut for my HAF X. I am going to have the drive bays removed tomorrow so I can fit my pump res. I have a Black one as well.. let me know what you think


----------



## mandrix

Those PMP-500's are impressive looking. Who is going to be the first to take one apart and investigate? Sure looks like it could be similar to a modded D5, although the specs are better.
I'm curious if they came up with an entirely new motor or adapted from something already in use.
What I don't get is the 3 pin connector. 32 watts / 12V = 2.66A. Seems like you would need a controller to run this thing except wide open. I can see someone blowing a fan header......


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Those PMP-500's are impressive looking. Who is going to be the first to take one apart and investigate? Sure looks like it could be similar to a modded D5, although the specs are better.
> I'm curious if they came up with an entirely new motor or adapted from something already in use.
> What I don't get is the 3 pin connector. 32 watts / 12V = 2.66A. Seems like you would need a controller to run this thing except wide open. I can see someone blowing a fan header......


Mine I will be connecting mine to my Lamptron FC-2, 45w per channel baby









She be right









*Side question:*

What is a second hand XSPC pump/res. 750 + Rasa block + XSPC tubing (2 meters, 6.5 ft) and 6x XSPC black chrome fittings worth?

All new here in Australia is approx. $142 + shipping


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Those PMP-500's are impressive looking. Who is going to be the first to take one apart and investigate? Sure looks like it could be similar to a modded D5, although the specs are better.
> I'm curious if they came up with an entirely new motor or adapted from something already in use.
> What I don't get is the 3 pin connector. 32 watts / 12V = 2.66A. Seems like you would need a controller to run this thing except wide open. I can see someone blowing a fan header......


Anyone that connects a pump to a mobo header is off their head anyway....
That pump is probably a new design,Laing are funny when it comes to licensing their products...i can't see them letting Koolance modify them to that extent.
I will let you know when mine appears,the first thing it will get is a strip down.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Anyone that connects a pump to a mobo header is off their head anyway....


I hope the H80 are designed to be otherwise I'm in trouble...









P.S. GPU folding on the main rig is when one sleeps... It took me 3 minutes to write this post because of the graphic lag.


----------



## Fonne

Has the DD Delrin Bay Res been showed here ? (Sorry if I missed if, this thread is moving fast







)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?258749-New-DD-Delrin-Bay-Res/page37


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Those PMP-500's are impressive looking. Who is going to be the first to take one apart and investigate? Sure looks like it could be similar to a modded D5, although the specs are better.
> I'm curious if they came up with an entirely new motor or adapted from something already in use.
> What I don't get is the 3 pin connector. 32 watts / 12V = 2.66A. Seems like you would need a controller to run this thing except wide open. I can see someone blowing a fan header......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Anyone that connects a pump to a mobo header is off their head anyway....
> That pump is probably a new design,Laing are funny when it comes to licensing their products...i can't see them letting Koolance modify them to that extent.
> I will let you know when mine appears,the first thing it will get is a strip down.


Like B states here, you would have to be Nuts to Run this Pump or Any Pump on a Header off the Board. A Lamptron will be Running the Show with This One.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Has the DD Delrin Bay Res been showed here ? (Sorry if I missed if, this thread is moving fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?258749-New-DD-Delrin-Bay-Res/page37


Super smexy. I would definitely replace my XSPC bay res for that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

XSPC rad stand..



If external is your thing....


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> XSPC rad stand..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If external is your thing....










....


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> My re-build is taking longer then I thought. *And costing a few dollars more*.
> 
> 
> 
> C'est la vie
Click to expand...

Lol!
That sums it up for many of us, doesn't it


----------



## hammerforged

New Koolance Flow Meter Adapter With Display



Quote:


> The DCB-FM01 displays flow rate or pulse signals from Koolance INS-FM16, INS-FM17/N, or INS-FM18 flow meters. Display units can be toggled between liters per minute, gallons per minute, or raw impeller pulse rate (Hz). Pulse rate conversion can also be manually configured on the DCB-FM01 for custom flow meters. An aluminum mounting bracket is included for computer 5.25in drive bay installation.
> 
> DCM-FM01 has a separate output which multiplies the flow meter signal for readability by most fan tachometer headers. This output is intended to allow fan detection software or BIOS to enable the appropriate alarm or shutdown procedure if the flow meter impeller stops rotating. The "RPMs" represent approximate coolant flow rate in mL/min and not the flow meter's revolutions. Power input is 12V DC.


Source


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> New Koolance Flow Meter Adapter With Display
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The DCB-FM01 displays flow rate or pulse signals from Koolance INS-FM16, INS-FM17/N, or INS-FM18 flow meters. Display units can be toggled between liters per minute, gallons per minute, or raw impeller pulse rate (Hz). Pulse rate conversion can also be manually configured on the DCB-FM01 for custom flow meters. An aluminum mounting bracket is included for computer 5.25in drive bay installation.
> 
> DCM-FM01 has a separate output which multiplies the flow meter signal for readability by most fan tachometer headers. This output is intended to allow fan detection software or BIOS to enable the appropriate alarm or shutdown procedure if the flow meter impeller stops rotating. The "RPMs" represent approximate coolant flow rate in mL/min and not the flow meter's revolutions. Power input is 12V DC.
> 
> 
> 
> Source
Click to expand...

Ya I just ordered 2 of those lol.


----------



## king8654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> XSPC rad stand..
> 
> If external is your thing....










... looking into wc setup for folding rig, going in basement so actually prefer external rad, since appearance doesn't matter. wow thats seexy


----------



## lowfat

Koolance flow meters have too much of a pressure drop. I'd rather put the money towards one of the Aquacomputer MPS meters.


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

So i have been wondering if i should go into the world of custom watercooling for my computer, and I'm asking for some suggestions for a setup, etc. I've already made a basic plan of a layout that might work, and im looking for suggestions that would improve on it.


----------



## JohnnyEars

For those of us with Monsta logo problems, I found them at last.. at Aquatuning


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> So i have been wondering if i should go into the world of custom watercooling for my computer, and I'm asking for some suggestions for a setup, etc. I've already made a basic plan of a layout that might work, and im looking for suggestions that would improve on it.


It'l be heavy, with that case.
I'm not an expert, but it looks fine to me aside from some quirks:

Keep in mind that the the gravity must do it's work.
Your loop seems to go this way: *pump -> 480 -> gpu -> cpu -> 360 -> res*.
Common sense would make me put the rads between the cooled components, not right at the exit of the pump. My own approach would be *pump -> gpu -> 480 -> cpu -> 360 -> res > pump* or something in this line. Tubing might get complicated, but I personally it's the most efficient way to cool without shoving warm water in another hot block.
Then again, at this state, the most efficient way would be to pre-cool the water before gpu as well with a square rad, but that's going overboard.
Anyone having more experience than me can and is encouraged to correct me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> It'l be heavy, with that case.
> I'm not an expert, but it looks fine to me aside from some quirks:
> 
> Keep in mind that the the gravity must do it's work.
> Your loop seems to go this way: *pump -> 480 -> gpu -> cpu -> 360 -> res*.
> Common sense would make me put the rads between the cooled components, not right at the exit of the pump. My own approach would be *pump -> gpu -> 480 -> cpu -> 360 -> res > pump* or something in this line. Tubing might get complicated, but I personally it's the most efficient way to cool without shoving warm water in another hot block.
> Then again, at this state, the most efficient way would be to pre-cool the water before gpu as well with a square rad, but that's going overboard.
> Anyone having more experience than me can and is encouraged to correct me.


Loop order makes no difference,you would gain a better result by keeping the hose lengths as short as possible by using the most economical routing.
As long as res is before pump,that is the only 'must do' for any loop


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> It'l be heavy, with that case.
> I'm not an expert, but it looks fine to me aside from some quirks:
> 
> Keep in mind that the the gravity must do it's work.
> Your loop seems to go this way: *pump -> 480 -> gpu -> cpu -> 360 -> res*.
> Common sense would make me put the rads between the cooled components, not right at the exit of the pump. My own approach would be *pump -> gpu -> 480 -> cpu -> 360 -> res > pump* or something in this line. Tubing might get complicated, but I personally it's the most efficient way to cool without shoving warm water in another hot block.
> Then again, at this state, the most efficient way would be to pre-cool the water before gpu as well with a square rad, but that's going overboard.
> Anyone having more experience than me can and is encouraged to correct me.


It'll be heavy? dude the case already weights a ton, i doubt this will make much of a difference







and I've only though about the size of the radiators and the placement of them, I haven't given the loop configs that much thought yet, but i was kinda planning on the 480 to cool the CPU and the 360 to cool the GPU's.

-- 360 rad - GPU 1 -- GPU 2 --
/ \
res -- pump - < > -res
\ /
-- 480 rad - CPU

/

or something along these lines, if that is possible.


----------



## YowZ

B NEGATIVE is right, loop order makes very little difference. the thermal capacitance of water is so high, and the volume passing through a block even at a low flow rate is going to make a difference of a few degrees at the most. quite frankly, as long as your pump is man enough to flow the loop effectively, the waterblocks + fans/rads you choose are going to make much more of a difference.
you're much better of making your tubing runs as short and tidy as possible. watercooling looks ballin' no point in having a hideous rig for the sake of 3 degrees lower temps, and with that many rads in there, your blocks are gonna be limiting factor. my system uses a single 360 rad to cool an i7 and 2 560tis and i've never seen a temp over 50 degrees and my fans never top 1300rpm.


----------



## sebar

Got some new water cooling gear installed.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YowZ*
> 
> B NEGATIVE is right, loop order makes very little difference. the thermal capacitance of water is so high, and the volume passing through a block even at a low flow rate is going to make a difference of a few degrees at the most. quite frankly, as long as your pump is man enough to flow the loop effectively, the waterblocks + fans/rads you choose are going to make much more of a difference.
> you're much better of making your tubing runs as short and tidy as possible. watercooling looks ballin' no point in having a hideous rig for the sake of 3 degrees lower temps, and with that many rads in there, your blocks are gonna be limiting factor. my system uses a single 360 rad to cool an i7 and 2 560tis and i've never seen a temp over 50 degrees and my fans never top 1300rpm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop order makes no difference,you would gain a better result by keeping the hose lengths as short as possible by using the most economical routing.
> As long as res is before pump,that is the only 'must do' for any loop


Thanks guys! I stand corrected, and informed.








Although 3 degrees can make a difference when speaking about intel...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> It'll be heavy? dude the case already weights a ton, i doubt this will make much of a difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I've only though about the size of the radiators and the placement of them, I haven't given the loop configs that much thought yet, but i was kinda planning on the 480 to cool the CPU and the 360 to cool the GPU's.
> 
> or something along these lines, if that is possible.


Fixed








Although, two GPU might be tight on a 360, no?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Got some new water cooling gear installed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip


Nice!


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Got some new water cooling gear installed.


Wicked i love it.


----------



## CircuitFreak

All 3 blocks and the 480 shouldn't be a problem on one pump but with the extra rad you may want to look into a second pump to run in series. Don't sweat running the GPU side and CPU side through separate rad loops unless you are going to go true dual loop. The temp diff (If any )won't be worth the hassle believe it or not. Rad order does not matter the only thing that matters is res before pump so the pump does not run dry. Check any thread you see with this question and you will see this answer in all of them, some of them may even have the links to testing threads.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Wicked i love it.


Thanks, the only thing I have left to do is swap out the blue power/HDD LED's with some red ones.


----------



## NostraD

Durelene made it from Sidewinder today, so I started working a loop and doing some leak testing:







iPhone pics - all I had available


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Those PMP-500's are impressive looking. Who is going to be the first to take one apart and investigate? Sure looks like it could be similar to a modded D5, although the specs are better.
> I'm curious if they came up with an entirely new motor or adapted from something already in use.
> What I don't get is the 3 pin connector. 32 watts / 12V = 2.66A. Seems like you would need a controller to run this thing except wide open. I can see someone blowing a fan header......


To adjust the speed of the pump you will need one of these here. There's a jumper so you can select 12V or 24V.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Durelene made it from Sidewinder today, so I started working a loop and doing some leak testing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: piccys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> iPhone pics - all I had available


Wow, your tubing looks so crystal clear...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> For those of us with Monsta logo problems, I found them at last.. at Aquatuning


Ah Thank you. Its not just the Monsta with the Problem Both my UT60 420 and 240 had Cockeyed Stickers...


----------



## BoutDrama




----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Durelene made it from Sidewinder today, so I started working a loop and doing some leak testing:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> iPhone pics - all I had available


Durelene is the ish! Mine still looks perfect after 3 months!


----------



## wermad

Just some final pics, topped off and a few more drops of Mayhems Deep Blue.


----------



## nyk20z3

LOL that window just shows everything on the inside i like it.


----------



## Tarnix

Nice, wermad







love the window!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> LOL that window just shows everything on the inside i like it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Nice, wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love the window!


Took off the mesh and the louvered plexi piece. Bored out the holes a bit larger fo 6-32 hex screws. Used a large and very clear piece of acrylic sheet (1/8"). Secured it using the screws and nuts.



Some Elysium owners have just cut out the middle part to make a large hole but I like the design and it adds some rigidity.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Took off the mesh and the louvered plexi piece. Bored out the holes a bit larger fo 6-32 hex screws. Used a large and very clear piece of acrylic sheet (1/8"). Secured it using the screws and nuts.
> Some Elysium owners have just cut out the middle part to make a large hole but I like the design and it adds some rigidity.


Simple, and works.
Although I'd feel too terrible to waste such a big fan.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Simple, and works.
> Although I'd feel too terrible to waste such a big fan.


Wouldn't fit with the bridge. I was planning to use it when i was running air but the massive Silver Arrow didn't get along with it. I ended up modding a small piece of acrylic to fit two 140s. Now that I'm running water and quite a few Rr4s, I have no need for the 230 or the 140s (especially since they won't fit







).


----------



## Tarnix

Fair enough


----------



## golfergolfer

Just a quick question what is the quietest pump on the market?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just a quick question what is the quietest pump on the market?


There's no one answer. Everyone can tell you a specific pump is better and quieter. Before this gets ugly, based on my experience, a ddc 3.2 is my choice for balanced performance and acoustics. Let the arguments begin!


----------



## mannyfc

going to throw this on fleabay


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> For those of us with Monsta logo problems, I found them at last.. at Aquatuning


Good find, thanks for posting the link. Rep+








Here's the US/Canada version, $0.73ea., less shipping:
www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13937_Alphacool-Sticker-45x10mm---Shiny-Copper.html


----------



## jellis142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just a quick question what is the quietest pump on the market?


Would you be comfortable under-volting? If yes, he's right, there are far too many to choose from. It comes down more to performance and price, a good controller can bring a pump down to near inaudible if it's mounted correctly. I can only hear a faint hum at 100% on my MCP-655, but it's bolted to the frame, nill vibration


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's no one answer. Everyone can tell you a specific pump is better and quieter. Before this gets ugly, based on my experience, a ddc 3.2 is my choice for balanced performance and acoustics. Let the arguments begin!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> Would you be comfortable under-volting? If yes, he's right, there are far too many to choose from. It comes down more to performance and price, a good controller can bring a pump down to near inaudible if it's mounted correctly. I can only hear a faint hum at 100% on my MCP-655, but it's bolted to the frame, nill vibration


Oh I didnt know it would have been such a thing.... Then I better give some more information first.

I have a small loop with MCP 350 right now and it is not too loud but my rig is sitting beside me so it is there but I was wondering if there is anything quieter out on the market. As I said it is a small loop with 2 GPU max, cpu, 240, and maybe a 120 rad, and the res so I dont need tons of performance nor and I looking for tons as my goal is to build a silent as possible rig. I have heard many good things about the MCP-655 however it might be too big for my size restrictions, but nonetheless it is still an option. I am not too sure what you mean by a good controller? Could you elaborate a tiny bit for me please? And I will take a look at the ddc 3.2 as well. Thanks for your help so far and I hope this narrows things down a bit


----------



## litoralis

RE: Pump Jingway 1200 pump. 12V 1.8A (AKA: EK-DCP 4.0 Pump and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro) (circa 2009, but never used)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Do your self a favor if you like a quiet PC and stay away from that pump. I hated mine, even running it at it's lowest RPM it is loud and not a very pleasant noise.


NO joke, I wish I had avoided this pump, I can not quiet it down enough to make it worth the while of building the rest of the loop.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Durelene made it from Sidewinder today, so I started working a loop and doing some leak testing:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> iPhone pics - all I had available


looking good. just installed the dura in my amd rig with the same cpu waterblock. i had to ground the block flat not sure if it made a difference. but the loop is holding up even at 4GHz unlocked - not bad for $20







. i love the look of those fittings.


----------



## Fonne

Is starting to draw my own waterblock, and hope that you can help ... This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea ...



The block size are the same, but will *1* or *2* be best ? ... *1* is made with a 4mm mill, and go 6mm down (Maybe 8mm). *2* is made with a 1.5mm mill that can only go 4mm down, but got the center piece.

What "design" way should I go with ?


----------



## Willhemmens

2 - It has more surface area.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Mine I will be connecting mine to my Lamptron FC-2, 45w per channel baby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She be right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side question:*
> What is a second hand XSPC pump/res. 750 + Rasa block + XSPC tubing (2 meters, 6.5 ft) and 6x XSPC black chrome fittings worth?
> All new here in Australia is approx. $142 + shipping


That will do it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Anyone that connects a pump to a mobo header is off their head anyway....
> That pump is probably a new design,Laing are funny when it comes to licensing their products...i can't see them letting Koolance modify them to that extent.
> I will let you know when mine appears,the first thing it will get is a strip down.


Great. Keep us posted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Like B states here, you would have to be Nuts to Run this Pump or Any Pump on a Header off the Board. A Lamptron will be Running the Show with This One.


Sure, but you know how that goes....."it's got a 3 pin so I thought I would just plug it in...." lol.

I got the SM8 rig fired up yesterday, got Windows loaded on SSD RAID. Everything looking good until I noticed I had the HDMI plugged into the top card (setup is r-atx so second card is on top).
Anyway I plugged the cable into the other card, refired the machine, and, nothing. No video. Got to drain the loop, pull the tubing and see if I fubar'd a slot when I was fiddling with the Aqualink pipes between the cards. Got my fingers crossed, wasn't planning on a new board until Haswell.








It's the card I've been running on another machine a few months, not the new one so I know I didn't muck up anything with the water block install. Basically the same cards with the same EK blocks so pretty much got to be the slot. Arrrrrgh.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is starting to draw my own waterblock, and hope that you can help ... This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea ...
> 
> The block size are the same, but will *1* or *2* be best ? ... *1* is made with a 4mm mill, and go 6mm down (Maybe 8mm). *2* is made with a 1.5mm mill that can only go 4mm down, but got the center piece.
> What "design" way should I go with ?


Like mentioned above 2 will be better.

If there is any chance of making that middle piece in a swiggly line, that would yield better results and not increase the pressure drop much.

Circle's and curves have more surface area then 90 degree bends.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is starting to draw my own waterblock, and hope that you can help ... This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea ...
> 
> The block size are the same, but will *1* or *2* be best ? ... *1* is made with a 4mm mill, and go 6mm down (Maybe 8mm). *2* is made with a 1.5mm mill that can only go 4mm down, but got the center piece.
> What "design" way should I go with ?


Neither,you need to make it wider than the bore of the fitting to keep the flow up,you need to manufacture a sealing channel for the o-ring,you also need to look at the base thickness,mounts and how you are going to mount the top...

Block 2 is the worst out of the 2 there,that center fin has just crippled the flow rate..4mm is less than half of what you need and example 2 has around 2mm bore with that center fin,you need to flatten the bore out so you get the maximum surface area closest the heat source. Example 8mm x 3mm..the 8mm side being closest to the heatsource.

Maybe get a loop together before designing parts,it will get you a better feel for how it all works.


----------



## jjpctech

Hey Hey, Not been on here in months.

Well anyway just looked through the past 800 pages i missed and im impressed!

My new loop teaser with a home made attachment block for a DCII block:


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Wow, your tubing looks so crystal clear...


Yeah, I'm loving this Durelene! It looks great! Of course you can't beat the price!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> looking good. just installed the dura in my amd rig with the same cpu waterblock. i had to ground the block flat not sure if it made a difference. but the loop is holding up even at 4GHz unlocked - not bad for $20
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i love the look of those fittings.


Thanks! I love this little block. I have tried a few others, but I like the aesthetic of this one. The temps are great, so I can't see any reason to change it. It goes really well with my new monsoon chrome fittings too







One of the blocks I haven't tried but would like to is the Koolance CPU-360 or 370. They have a similar aesthetic, but not as polished and shiny. This will work for now though. I just spent a few bucks with DWOOD for some custom pieces for this rig, so I am budgeted out atm.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

OK, so I'm starting to mess around with manual settings on my new D5100 and these are the very first shots I've experimented with. No lighting yet, just messing with ISO and exposure settings. I'm loving this camera so far!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK, so I'm starting to mess around with manual settings on my new D5100 and these are the very first shots I've experimented with. No lighting yet, just messing with ISO and exposure settings. I'm loving this camera so far!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In really low light or Pitch Black shots .. I have used a 15 sec Exposure and that dumps my ISO to 80 by default. If that helps you..
I have got some real Quality shots in the dark with 15sec. It will bring out more case detail a bit and help with case lighting detail..

I like the very last pic there. Real Sharp. Looks good so Far..


----------



## vaporizer

Hello all, I have been pretty much a lurker since i joined the Overclock.net community this last spring. It has taken me a while to look at most of the posts in this forum so i haven't posted in this one yet. Below is a pic of my current water coolong set up, but i am going to break down my computer cabinet today for some more modding( a ongoing project as i am sure most of you know). I will updat pics if there are changes to share. Most of todays mods are going to be on the part of the case that can't be seen. The case is quiet quiet. My wifes comp drowneds out my case by far and se only has one 200mm and two 120mm fans with a stock cpu cooler and hers sound like a jet airplane compared to mine.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is starting to draw my own waterblock, and hope that you can help ... This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The block size are the same, but will *1* or *2* be best ? ... *1* is made with a 4mm mill, and go 6mm down (Maybe 8mm). *2* is made with a 1.5mm mill that can only go 4mm down, but got the center piece.
> What "design" way should I go with ?


Check out "Custom PC UK September 2012" issue. near the end of
all of their issues they have handy little "how to" 's and that issue
they show roughly how to make a motherboard waterblock.
i believe they do utilize a pre-existing universal block but
still worth checking out. it will at least hopefully give you some
ideas..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *litoralis*
> 
> RE: Pump Jingway 1200 pump. 12V 1.8A (AKA: EK-DCP 4.0 Pump and Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro) (circa 2009, but never used)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Do your self a favor if you like a quiet PC and stay away from that pump. I hated mine, even running it at it's lowest RPM it is loud and not a very pleasant noise.
> 
> 
> 
> NO joke, I wish I had avoided this pump, I can not quiet it down enough to make it worth the while of building the rest of the loop.
Click to expand...

Get yourself a DDC-1T, get a top... sell the Jingway someone here will want it so hold on to it, get your rep up and problem solved.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> 2 - It has more surface area.


I would have said this too before B Neg chimed in and made sense.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is starting to draw my own waterblock, and hope that you can help ... This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The block size are the same, but will *1* or *2* be best ? ... *1* is made with a 4mm mill, and go 6mm down (Maybe 8mm). *2* is made with a 1.5mm mill that can only go 4mm down, but got the center piece.
> What "design" way should I go with ?
> 
> 
> 
> Check out "Custom PC UK September 2012" issue. near the end of
> all of their issues they have handy little "how to" 's and that issue
> they show roughly how to make a motherboard waterblock.
> i believe they do utilize a pre-existing universal block but
> still worth checking out. it will at least hopefully give you some
> ideas..
Click to expand...

Sadly I no longer live near a Borders Bookstore where they can get me anything I want. Would love to see this.










~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> For those of us with Monsta logo problems, I found them at last.. at Aquatuning


Nice find mate-although im against paying to advertise for a company (yes i know, it's unavoidable 99% of the times).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop order makes no difference,you would gain a better result by keeping the hose lengths as short as possible by using the most economical routing.
> As long as res is before pump,that is the only 'must do' for any loop


*THIS ^*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just a quick question what is the quietest pump on the market?


Quietest are the Aquastream line of pumps(even when run at full speed), *BUT*, they are very weak (low head pressure/flow) when compared to the market giants, ie D5 and DDC pumps.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Neither,you need to make it wider than the bore of the fitting to keep the flow up,you need to manufacture a sealing channel for the o-ring,you also need to look at the base thickness,mounts and how you are going to mount the top...
> Block 2 is the worst out of the 2 there,that center fin has just crippled the flow rate..4mm is less than half of what you need and example 2 has around 2mm bore with that center fin,you need to flatten the bore out so you get the maximum surface area closest the heat source. Example 8mm x 3mm..the 8mm side being closest to the heatsource.
> Maybe get a loop together before designing parts,it will get you a better feel for how it all works.


Thanks for your answer







.. I know about the sealing channel etc, but it was just to show it very fast - Thats why i wrote "This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea" (Not the best to explain myself in English allways)

This I made a little time ago, and thinks its pretty decent ...



And this will be next when I get some machine time, a new EK top that will fit the Shuttle mountings holes on S775 that is different than normal ...



But you got some great points







... The base thickness will be around 2mm (Was the plan) to keep some strenght, and a short way to transfer heat to the water ..

Will be using 13/10mm tubing with 1/4" thread, so the hole is around 8.X mm if I remember correct - So if the channel is around 8-9mm wide, there will be no problem if its only 5mm high ? (Or should if be 8x8mm to get the best flow)

Hope that you understand, the school English really need some fine tuning againg









- And thanks to all the other answer








Quote:


> Check out "Custom PC UK September 2012" issue. near the end of
> all of their issues they have handy little "how to" 's and that issue
> they show roughly how to make a motherboard waterblock.
> i believe they do utilize a pre-existing universal block but
> still worth checking out. it will at least hopefully give you some
> ideas..


Will try go get it, thanks


----------



## Fonne

- Mistake -


----------



## Hand_Grenade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Just got my new back piece cut for my HAF X. I am going to have the drive bays removed tomorrow so I can fit my pump res. I have a Black one as well.. let me know what you think
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks awesome:thumb:

where did you get it done?


----------



## PwrElec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Hello all, I have been pretty much a lurker since i joined the Overclock.net community this last spring. It has taken me a while to look at most of the posts in this forum so i haven't posted in this one yet. Below is a pic of my current water coolong set up, but i am going to break down my computer cabinet today for some more modding( a ongoing project as i am sure most of you know). I will updat pics if there are changes to share. Most of todays mods are going to be on the part of the case that can't be seen. The case is quiet quiet. My wifes comp drowneds out my case by far and se only has one 200mm and two 120mm fans with a stock cpu cooler and hers sound like a jet airplane compared to mine.


nice case!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Thanks for your answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I know about the sealing channel etc, but it was just to show it very fast - Thats why i wrote "This is just a fast example, but hope you can see the idea" (Not the best to explain myself in English allways)
> This I made a little time ago, and thinks its pretty decent ...
> 
> And this will be next when I get some machine time, a new EK top that will fit the Shuttle mountings holes on S775 that is different than normal ...
> 
> But you got some great points
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... The base thickness will be around 2mm (Was the plan) to keep some strenght, and a short way to transfer heat to the water ..
> Will be using 13/10mm tubing with 1/4" thread, so the hole is around 8.X mm if I remember correct - So if the channel is around 8-9mm wide, there will be no problem if its only 5mm high ? (Or should if be 8x8mm to get the best flow)
> Hope that you understand, the school English really need some fine tuning againg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - And thanks to all the other answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will try go get it, thanks


If you have a lower height to width ratio then you increase flow over a wider area.
Maybe try to include some cuts in the base in the direction of flow to add turbulence and a greater surface area.

Have you actually tested that block top? Finish that off then look to other block types,you take the knowledge from that one to make the next better.

I applaud your efforts so far but dont run before you can walk,i have made that mistake myself and it normally costs.

Perhaps speak to EK tiborr or nateman about it,get some pointers from them. Or look at current blocks and the way they are made.


----------



## jellybeans69

Heya, everyone who's using wc cooling here if i may i have few questions. I'm interesed in building custom loop in near future but never had dealt with wc systems. I understand that i'll need pump/waterblock/radiator. What else will i need to buy - i'm not from de, but any models that are available at caseking - links if not against forum rules would be appreciated. Also someone at local oc forums is selling XSPC RX360 + 3 Nanoxia FX12-1250 for bit under 100$ is this good deal even if i would save it for next gen cpu f.e hasswell? I intend to watercool only cpu at least at start


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Fittings, tubing, fans, coolant (or DI water), silver kill coil or biocide (if not using coolant), reservoir, drain tap, quick disconnects, SLI bridge (if applicable), temp/flow sensor, fan controller, and on and on and on....


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *If you have a lower height to width ratio then you increase flow over a wider area.*
> Maybe try to include some cuts in the base in the direction of flow to add turbulence and a greater surface area.
> Have you actually tested that block top? Finish that off then look to other block types,you take the knowledge from that one to make the next better.
> I applaud your efforts so far but dont run before you can walk,i have made that mistake myself and it normally costs.
> Perhaps speak to EK tiborr or nateman about it,get some pointers from them. Or look at current blocks and the way they are made.


Just what I was looking after, thanks again









Have not testet the GPU top, still waiting on the owner to send me the cobber parts to test.

Is looking at blocks, and try to learn what best







- Dont got the mill to make micro channels, but is waiting to get some prices on 1mm mill that can go ~4mm down ...

Would love to do the kind of work that Nateman is doing, but is no where near that yet - Some day in the future i hope to make nice parts to the community


----------



## TheNovice

Hi all OCN water cooling gurus,

Noob question here..









How much coolant should I expect to buy for a system consisting of:
1 x EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (360)
1 x EK-CoolStream RAD XTC (280)
1 x CPU block
1 x GPU block
1 x Swiftech MCP35X with MCP35X Reservoir (10cl.)

Will keep the loop as short as possible.
Is 2L enough?

\M


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

2L should be more than enough...


----------



## TheNovice

Thank you!


----------



## wermad

I have a G1/4 thread tap but I can't find a large enough wrench to hold it. I think this was meant for a cnc/milling machine. Anyways, I got a hold of some thick scrap acrylic and i was planning to make a clear bridge system.


----------



## SpecializedPro

Hello, ive been thinking bout watercooling my 3930k for about 9 months!! , finally decided im gona go for it, can anyone tell me whats the best 360 rad and pump to go for and also what fans you recommend, wana do a 6 fan push/pull setup if that helps? Thanx


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> Hello, ive been thinking bout watercooling my 3930k for about 9 months!! , finally decided im gona go for it, can anyone tell me whats the best 360 rad and pump to go for and also what fans you recommend, wana do a 6 fan push/pull setup if that helps? Thanx


Not to be too rude but in that 9 months you did zero research?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have a G1/4 thread tap but I can't find a large enough wrench to hold it. I think this was meant for a cnc/milling machine. Anyways, I got a hold of some thick scrap acrylic and i was planning to make a clear bridge system.


Do you have a drill press? You are going to need one to drill straight in acrylic Werm....good luck tho!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you have a drill press? You are going to need one to drill straight in acrylic Werm....good luck tho!


Yes, I do I have one but my old man burned out the capacitor and I haven't gotten around to order one from China (ebay). I did buy the drill bit to bore out the hole needed for a G1/4 tap so I have everything ready to go I just need that damn tap wrench too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> Hello, ive been thinking bout watercooling my 3930k for about 9 months!! , finally decided im gona go for it, can anyone tell me whats the best 360 rad and pump to go for and also what fans you recommend, wana do a 6 fan push/pull setup if that helps? Thanx


It really comes down how much you want to spend. For a cpu, a regular (~30mm) rad would do find. You can also go with a thick 240mm radiator. Fans, you have a ton of options for 120mm radiators. Most fans will work fine with low to medium fin density radiators. The higher density ones require higher rpm fans.

For radiators, most big player brands are good: XSPC, Alpahacool, Black Ice, Phobya, Magicool, EK, Swiftech, etc..

For fans: its even harder to pinpoint,. but consider what your budget is and if you need something with looks (ie leds, etc).

To throw you an idea (list):

-Swiftech Apogee HD Drive II + Swiftech MCP 35x
-Alphacool UT-60 360mm
-3 Corsair SP120 HP fans
-Your choice of fittings: Bitspower, Alphacool, Swiftech, Koolance, Enzotech (I have these), Phobya, EK, etc.
-Your choice of reservoir: Tube style (BP, EK, Alphacool, FrozenQ, etc), bay res.

The cpu block I listed above has the pump attached to it. You can also buy the block and the pump separate with traditional ports.

edit: here's a cpu round up review. If you want to research more options for cpu blocks:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup

Feel free to ask more questions. You can also post a thread in the water section if you want to keep it concentrated to your questions (this thread is busy and sometimes your questions and answers may get lost).


----------



## thethat

Here is my current setup.
I am planing on getting some more cold cathoded. Either more, or 3 more, since they're in sets like that i think.
My question is, would this work for 800d?
http://koolance.com/3-x-120mm-fan-radiator-shroud-black
Dimensions: 7.25" x 1.25" x 16.50" (18.4cm x 3.2cm x 42cm). Now, these are the dimensions that it gives me.
Some photos of what i have.



So I am a little confused as to how it will fit exactly.
Earlier in this thread, KaRLiToS has posted a photo.
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/16210#post_16132818
About half way down the page, he has photos of what seems to be the same shroud, on the next page, there is a link to the 480 version of this shroud.

I more or less just want to confirm that it would look nicely.
Due to my location, any shipping would cost me similar price as the parts, and take forever to arrive. I would prefer to get what I want the first time, with no returns or anything.

Also, i am interested in sleeving cables. How hard is this to do?
Is it recommended to do on your own?
I was browsing around for sleeves and start-up kits, but most of them had several diameters and sizes per sleeve that was available.

Input and feed back welcome!


----------



## wermad

Use some fans to position it, mark the holes, use a 1/8" bit to drill out some holes, use the included Koolance machine screws. I did a RX480 on top with a Koolance 4x120mm shroud:


----------



## thethat

Thanks Wermad.
I just love how tidy the shroud looks.


----------



## NewHighScore

I couldn't wait for my gpu back plate and went ahead and set up the loop and ran the leak test.









I also can't wait to game again as it's been a few days.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Looks amazing with the yellow coolant!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looks amazing with the yellow coolant!


Thanks. That's 1.5L of Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow .


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I couldn't wait for my gpu back plate and went ahead and set up the loop and ran the leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also can't wait to game again as it's been a few days.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ooooo that's starting to look real nice!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I couldn't wait for my gpu back plate and went ahead and set up the loop and ran the leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also can't wait to game again as it's been a few days.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Brilliant!!


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I couldn't wait for my gpu back plate and went ahead and set up the loop and ran the leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also can't wait to game again as it's been a few days.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Loving this.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I couldn't wait for my gpu back plate and went ahead and set up the loop and ran the leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also can't wait to game again as it's been a few days.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I need some new pants.


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Not to be too rude but in that 9 months you did zero research?


I thought the same thing.


----------



## armartins

Damn almost 3000 pages!


----------



## Lazy Bear

I wonder if this post will bring us to 3k pages.

Edit: it didn't.


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I wonder if this post will bring us to 3k pages.
> Edit: it didn't.


Nice try! (contributing!)

Edit: Don't you mean 30k posts? only at 1500 pages.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> Nice try! (contributing!)
> Edit: Don't you mean 30k posts? only at 1500 pages.


you can change your profile settings to allow more or less posts per page. I'm on the default setting which is coming up to 3k pages


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> you can change your profile settings to allow more or less posts per page. I'm on the default setting which is coming up to 3k pages


oh yeah... Genius moment right there on my behalf.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I recently changed my settings to 50 posts per page so this is page 600 for me...


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Finally have money to purchase watercooling stuff but I want to get some peoples feedback on what GPU blocks I should buy for my 7970's. I'm thinking about the heatkiller blocks with backplate of the Swiftech Komodo block. I'm just not sure which... and yes, I did look at the block roundup by buddymania









Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Finally have money to purchase watercooling stuff but I want to get some peoples feedback on what GPU blocks I should buy for my 7970's. I'm thinking about the heatkiller blocks with backplate of the Swiftech Komodo block. I'm just not sure which... and yes, I did look at the block roundup by buddymania
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Don't like the HK backplate? They're







'tastic!


----------



## Lazy Bear

Wermad got to 3k pages! Good job.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Wermad got to 3k pages! Good job.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't like the HK backplate? They're
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'tastic!


God I can't spell! I meant Heatkiller blocks with backplates *or* Swiftech Komodo.

I'm leaning more towards the Heatkiller blocks.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Finally have money to purchase watercooling stuff but I want to get some peoples feedback on what GPU blocks I should buy for my 7970's. I'm thinking about the heatkiller blocks with backplate of the Swiftech Komodo block. I'm just not sure which... and yes, I did look at the block roundup by buddymania
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I got the 'losers' in that roundup (XSPC Razor) but they were on sale and I'm not looking for maximum OC so







- wanted the Komodo's but I got both of my Razors for a little more than the cost of a single Komodo - and the two places I was ordering from were out of stock on both the Komodos and the Heatkillers. Seems like the heatkillers are getting good reviews and a lot of use (for the 7970 users amongst us). I'm guessing you're not a fan of the EK blocks? That would be the other one that seems to have mass adoption.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> God I can't spell! I meant Heatkiller blocks with backplates *or* Swiftech Komodo.
> I'm leaning more towards the Heatkiller blocks.
> Jeffinslaw


I am buying the Komodo blocks for the 7970 this week


----------



## Lazy Bear

Don't the Komodos have the worst flow rate out of all of the available 7970 blocks?


----------



## _REAPER_

It begins..Making some room for watercooling in my HAF X. built a custom back plate to put in the hole you see. I will be making some custom L brackets to restore some strength to the case in the coming days


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I got the 'losers' in that roundup (XSPC Razor) but they were on sale and I'm not looking for maximum OC so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - wanted the Komodo's but I got both of my Razors for a little more than the cost of a single Komodo - and the two places I was ordering from were out of stock on both the Komodos and the Heatkillers. Seems like the heatkillers are getting good reviews and a lot of use (for the 7970 users amongst us). I'm guessing you're not a fan of the EK blocks? That would be the other one that seems to have mass adoption.


Well if I could get two of the OLD EK style blocks then I would jump on that! Hate the CSQ crap...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> I am buying the Komodo blocks for the 7970 this week


Let me know how you like it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Don't the Komodos have the worst flow rate out of all of the available 7970 blocks?


Yes, it did have the lowest flow rate but I'm sure it wouldn't make that much of a difference.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Tnt6200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I couldn't wait for my gpu back plate and went ahead and set up the loop and ran the leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also can't wait to game again as it's been a few days.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome! I was think about doing a black and yellow themed build with the Mpower but I guess you beat me to it.









PS - 30000th post


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tnt6200*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I couldn't wait for my gpu back plate and went ahead and set up the loop and ran the leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also can't wait to game again as it's been a few days.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome! I was think about doing a black and yellow themed build with the Mpower but I guess you beat me to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS - 30000th post
Click to expand...

You beat me -.-


----------



## _REAPER_

A few more updates


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> A few more updates
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not seeing the watercooling in your post....


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I'm not seeing the watercooling in your post....


Nitpicking









I think he was posting build-in-progress photos (which might be better suited to a BUILD LOG one might be led to believe). He did mention that this was for the purpose of going under water soon... but I agree no WC parts are visible anywhere.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

What is wrong with this picture?










Yup,seems channel 2 had turned it toes up...no RMA for me as i have had to mod the faceplate to get it sitting flush with the front panel.

Now,here is my dilemma,do i get another one of these and use the existing panel or go for something else and remake the panel?
I would like to put a FC 10 in there but they are as rare as rocking horse poop and,seeing as i just finished my contract at work,a little bit too much money for what it is.....
So,opinions are welcome....


----------



## Fuganater

I'd get another FC5V2. FC10 will not match your rig at all. its also crazy to use with the little remote. I only got it to power all my fans with 1 unit and it matches my mod.


----------



## carrotman

Have you tried a different fan in channel 2 at least?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carrotman*
> 
> Have you tried a different fan in channel 2 at least?










Yes i have.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ooooo that's starting to look real nice!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Brilliant!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> Loving this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> I need some new pants.


























Thanks guys. It means a lot to me.







In the last 13 months... 4 PC's later and thousands of dollars of buying/selling my parts.... here I finally am with a PC I am proud of. All of the past ones were to say the least.... meh.

I can't wait to get my MDPC.

B NEG can you add me to the club now please.







*edit* NM I see I am already in it


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. It means a lot to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last 13 months... 4 PC's later and thousands of dollars of buying/selling my parts.... here I finally am with a PC I am proud of. All of the past ones were to say the least.... meh.
> I can't wait to get my MDPC.
> B NEG can you add me to the club now please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* NM I see I am already in it


Nice setup! If you had the OC Formula in there, it'd have been amazing. I mean for the yellow theme you got going on.









Talking about haven't played any game, I have NOT played any game for the past 6 months.







So I understand how it feels. Time to go play some now. Haha...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Nice setup! If you had the OC Formula in there, it'd have been amazing. I mean for the yellow theme you got going on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talking about haven't played any game, I have NOT played any game for the past 6 months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I understand how it feels. Time to go play some now. Haha...


The plan originally was the OC Formula in this build. At the time of my builds concept the Z77 Mpower was not announced or at least I was not aware of it. If you go into my build log thread I have a paint mockup picture with the OC Formula in there







and although the OC forumla has water cooled VRM's and more features I personally like the aesthetic and price of the Mpower a tad better. I picked it up for $185 on sale at NCIX







.

Oh you poor poor soul! 6 MONTHS!%@^#??? How do you do it? I need to game at least 20 hours a week. That will also turn into much much more because....

WINTER IS COMING!


----------



## hammerforged

EK releases new D5 X-RES series pump/reservoir combo units
Quote:


> The EK-D5 X-RES CSQ comes in two versions (-100 and -140) and is a direct successor of EK-D5 X-RES released three years ago. This new pump top (volute) for Laing D5 series water pumps with integrated reservoir is now even easier to use and offers various port installation options. This top offer increased hydraulic performance (up to 20%) compared to factory top.




Source


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Tiborr posted this a couple days ago. It really is the first CSQ product that I find attractive...


----------



## corysti

CSQ design is a hit and miss with me as well. I actually like the design and think its different than most other companies but I don't want every component to carry that design in my rig.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Tiborr posted this a couple days ago. It really is the first CSQ product that I find attractive...


He only posted the DDC, not the D5 ones.

Very very happy these are being released. Definitely know what I'm buying now.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Ahh, my bad. I love the EK logo in the res...


----------



## strong island 1

I Finally got my first loop going. I think it looks a little funny. I have to work on re-routing the tubing. Also he Cosmos 2 had no room for the rx360 rad so I had to take the top apart and stick it up there with the tubes coming thru the back. I'm really happy though, it wasn't easy but i is working great. I think I will sell the cosmos 2 and get a case labs case, especially once blocks are released for my 680's.


----------



## corysti

Looks good







I think this Cosmos 2 looks like a good case I just don't think its a good case for watercooling.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think this Cosmos 2 looks like a good case I just don't think its a good case for watercooling.


Ya I definitely agree. It was not easy installing the rx360 rad and now the top of the case looks like crap but i thought it was worth it to get my first loop going. Even if I can't sell the cosmos 2 I am going to try and get a case labs merlin sm8 or one of the bigger ones. I'm addicted now and want some more rad space. It was very exciting when I finally started the loop for the first time and got everything running.


----------



## Michalius

Out of curiosity, why do people prefer putting the fittings towards the rear of the case on the top rad? I see it so often.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I'm addicted now and want some more rad space.










~~~


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Out of curiosity, why do people prefer putting the fittings towards the rear of the case on the top rad? I see it so often.


I had to. Because of my case unless I drilled some holes the rad wouldn't fit with the ports facing down. I also heard that it's actually better because the air won't get trapped in the rad as easy because air rises.


----------



## Michalius

Sorry, I don't mean facing down. If you were looking at the side of your case, I mean to the left towards the rear, rather than the right towards the optical bay.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> CSQ design is a hit and miss with me as well. I actually like the design and think its different than most other companies but I don't want every component to carry that design in my rig.


I actually really like the design look of the CSQ. I guess I am one of the few but I am just scared to use their products because of said things all over this forum however I would gladly switch all of my WC components if EK wanted to give it to me for free









*cough* *cough* ahem.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Sorry, I don't mean facing down. If you were looking at the side of your case, I mean to the left towards the rear, rather than the right towards the optical bay.


For me it was just the fact that my case came with grommeted holes in the back for tube routing. I could have put it towards the optical bays but then there was no easy way to bring the tubes into the case. I could have put the ports facing down towards the optical bays but again there was no holes for the ports so I would have had to drill some. I am going to make some changes and maybe even try and get the rad in the bottom. This was the only way I could figure it out without drilling any holes and with the fittings I had..


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Sorry, I don't mean facing down. If you were looking at the side of your case, I mean to the left towards the rear, rather than the right towards the optical bay.


I think, generally it's case specific orientation. It is more easily mounted that way without any modification necessary. In my Switch 810 the fittings would not allow for my optical drive in the top bay spot (or anything else really) plus I would have to cut out some of the optical bay bracketing. I would like to do it that way though, and run a xflow rad. I could enter the rad right out of my bay res/pump and then drop down from the rear port to my CPU with minimal tubing reqd.


----------



## Michalius

I suppose I view tubes pretty much like wires. The more I can hide behind stuff, the cleaner it looks and the happier I am. That's the primary reason why I still prefer bay res/pump combos.

With my previous setup, you only see three tubes:



Because the major stuff is all hidden behind the optical bay wall.



I think that's worth losing an optical bay over.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I suppose I view tubes pretty much like wires. The more I can hide behind stuff, the cleaner it looks and the happier I am. That's the primary reason why I still prefer bay res/pump combos.
> With my previous setup, you only see three tubes:
> 
> Because the major stuff is all hidden behind the optical bay wall.
> 
> I think that's worth losing an optical bay over.


Agreed. Optical media is nearing the end of it's life anyways.


----------



## corysti

I always put my fittings to the front where it's closer to the pump and res.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> EK releases new D5 X-RES series pump/reservoir combo units
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source


The first and only CSQ unit that I am thinking about getting, looks pretty nice


----------



## Michalius

Just got word from Frozen CPU that if everything goes according to plan, rough estimate of availability is early next week for the EK D5 X-Res.


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Not to be too rude but in that 9 months you did zero research?


Like i said i've been thinking about it!!!!, Of course ive had a look about, but everyone has there own preference, some will say somethings great some will say its not so great, thats why i asked the question on a forumn where people know what they are talking about!
I think EK seems to be the way to go from what i've seen,


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> Like i said i've been thinking about it!!!!, Of course ive had a look about, but everyone has there own preference, some will say somethings great some will say its not so great, thats why i asked the question on a forumn where people know what they are talking about!
> I think *EK seems* to be the way to go from what i've seen,


Well, you haven't been reading a lot. There are more manufacturers out there that provide blocks for your cpu and gpu. Go back to the post i left you


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I suppose I view tubes pretty much like wires. The more I can hide behind stuff, the cleaner it looks and the happier I am. That's the primary reason why I still prefer bay res/pump combos.
> With my previous setup, you only see three tubes:
> Because the major stuff is all hidden behind the optical bay wall.
> I think that's worth losing an optical bay over.


Ya I agree I just didn't have much choice with the parts and case I have. I'm about to get a case labs case like the TH10 so I can do the build the way I want to. I just wanted to get started with my first loop so I could get an idea about how it all works. Now that I do I can concentrate on the look of everything.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What is wrong with this picture?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup,seems channel 2 had turned it toes up...no RMA for me as i have had to mod the faceplate to get it sitting flush with the front panel.
> 
> Now,here is my dilemma,do i get another one of these and use the existing panel or go for something else and remake the panel?
> I would like to put a FC 10 in there but they are as rare as rocking horse poop and,seeing as i just finished my contract at work,a little bit too much money for what it is.....
> So,opinions are welcome....


That just looks sick


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Ya I agree I just didn't have much choice with the parts and case I have. I'm about to get a case labs case like the TH10 so I can do the build the way I want to. I just wanted to get started with my first loop so I could get an idea about how it all works. Now that I do I can concentrate on the look of everything.


I hear that. I was asking more in terms of seeing lots of people do it. I think its a preference thing, and I was thinking it was to have a rad in between the CPU and GPU blocks. Definitely no criticism intended!


----------



## jktmas

hope it appeals to some eyes even though its not the top of the line custom loop


----------



## wermad

Anyone know if the 35x has a thermal shutdown? I've had it stopped working three instances and noticed its hot as heck. I'm running my fans at 40% so there a decent amount of airflow going to it. This happens when my fans are in low speed and the system in full load, which leads me to believe that the pump is getting too hot and shutting down. I'm running the pump from the psu. I can't start my system since the pump just nudges and sounds like its struggling to start. Once its cooled down, it starts right up without a whim







.

Btw, the pump didn't like being hooked up to the fan controller (unlike the 3.2) and I have yet to setup pwm.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

PWM should help with the heat but they are just naturally hot pumps Werm.
Maybe spring for a heatsink kit?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PWM should help with the heat but they are just naturally hot pumps Werm.
> Maybe spring for a heatsink kit?


I'm having second thoughts now since it was a bit more than 3.2. A 3.2 worked very nicely and i could drop the power through a controller easily. I'll try the pwm thing but I thought it would do fine under the fan controller seeing that it can adjust power from 40-100%. It didn't like anything under 90%. Gonna wait for this weekend to tinker with it.

Yeah, I know ddc get hot but it sits right above the bottom 240 rad and fans. It is a hot little bugger though


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope it appeals to some eyes even though its not the top of the line custom loop


Front fan should be intake in order to provide better airflow for the vga


----------



## ginger_nuts

Correct me if I am wrong, but does PWM not operate differently then just regulating the voltage?

I was at the understanding that it is a pulse signal, which controls the speed function.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong, but does PWM not operate differently then just regulating the voltage?
> I was at the understanding that it is a pulse signal, which controls the speed function.


PWM Stands for Pulse Width Modulation. So it in fact is a pulse.

Edit: more lengthy explanation
PWM fans are those fans which runs with a "duty cycle". they do not spin "all the time at _*X*_ speed based on _*Y*_ voltage". They work this way: "I am a controller, I send you _*W*_ current during _*Z*_ seconds." and "I am a fan, for _*Z*_ seconds during which I get *W* current, my motor is *on*."

In a nutshell, instead of running all the time at said speed, it alternates on/off state at _*R*_ times per second, thus it "pulses".


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong, but does PWM not operate differently then just regulating the voltage?
> I was at the understanding that it is a pulse signal, which controls the speed function.


That is correct









I was under the impression the 3.25, just like the 3.2, can be regulated via a fan controller *too*. Apparently you can't. Could be due to the pwm feature and hence why that maybe the only option to lower the power on the 3.25 (aka mcp35x).

edit: its like taking a pwm fan and hooking it up to your fan controller


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm having second thoughts now since it was a bit more than 3.2. A 3.2 worked very nicely and i could drop the power through a controller easily. I'll try the pwm thing but I thought it would do fine under the fan controller seeing that it can adjust power from 40-100%. It didn't like anything under 90%. Gonna wait for this weekend to tinker with it.
> Yeah, I know ddc get hot but it sits right above the bottom 240 rad and fans. It is a hot little bugger though


I just got the 35x and I have it hooked to a molex plug and I also plugged the 4 pin plug into the cpu fan header on my mobo. I can here it changing speeds a lot based on the load of the computer. It hasn't gotten that hot for me yet but I just installed it yesterday.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I just got the 35x and I have it hooked to a molex plug and I also plugged the 4 pin plug into the cpu fan header on my mobo. I can here it changing speeds a lot based on the load of the computer. It hasn't gotten that hot for me yet but I just installed it yesterday.


I'm running full power









What settings did you setup btw?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That is correct
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was under the impression the 3.25, just like the 3.2, can be regulated via a fan controller *too*. Apparently you can't. Could be due to the pwm feature and hence why that maybe the only option to lower the power on the 3.25 (aka mcp35x).
> edit: its like taking a pwm fan and hooking it up to your fan controller


I think he thought you meant the fan controller is a PWM fan controller, not a voltage based fan controller.


----------



## Zertag111000

Nice system bro and clean pictures on that camera. How is the temp with the 4 fan radiator on the GPU and CPU.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I just got the 35x and I have it hooked to a molex plug and I also plugged the 4 pin plug into the cpu fan header on my mobo. I can here it changing speeds a lot based on the load of the computer. It hasn't gotten that hot for me yet but I just installed it yesterday.


No problem with current either, also with the MCP35X with tube res b4


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the tubing up a bit. Pretty much the only work I've done on the rig in a month.


My eyes look up at it like a GOD. Nice Modifed tubes!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Some sexy teaser of my new build. Test fit
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Builder, whats kind of case?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got home and Found This Waiting for me..


Congrats! and let me know hows it going.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Got some new water cooling gear installed.


*:::scratch head:::* where the HDD is? *MMMM*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Durelene made it from Sidewinder today, so I started working a loop and doing some leak testing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> iPhone pics - all I had available


the chrome Waterblock is NICE!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all, I have been pretty much a lurker since i joined the Overclock.net community this last spring. It has taken me a while to look at most of the posts in this forum so i haven't posted in this one yet. Below is a pic of my current water coolong set up, but i am going to break down my computer cabinet today for some more modding( a ongoing project as i am sure most of you know). I will updat pics if there are changes to share. Most of todays mods are going to be on the part of the case that can't be seen. The case is quiet quiet. My wifes comp drowneds out my case by far and se only has one 200mm and two 120mm fans with a stock cpu cooler and hers sound like a jet airplane compared to mine.


AMAZING!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A few more updates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice some modified!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose I view tubes pretty much like wires. The more I can hide behind stuff, the cleaner it looks and the happier I am. That's the primary reason why I still prefer bay res/pump combos.
> With my previous setup, you only see three tubes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Because the major stuff is all hidden behind the optical bay wall.
> 
> I think that's worth losing an optical bay over.


a beautiful light glow..


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> *:::scratch head:::* where the HDD is? *MMMM*
> ..


HDD is in the 5.25 drive bay, SSD mounted behind Motherboard tray.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm running full power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What settings did you setup btw?


I just turned on q-control for the cpu fan. it's an option in my bios, i'm not sure if it controls it by temperature or cpu load but when I run prime95 i can here the pump get louder. right now at idle it's really quiet and when i touch it i feel no heat.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> HDD is in the 5.25 drive bay, SSD mounted behind Motherboard tray.


Dude, Ahh Gotcha..


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Dude, Ahh Gotcha..


Is that the M184 or M160 in your avatar? If so, what is it cooling and what are your temps?


----------



## Hanoverfist

250 FULL CLEAR


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I just turned on q-control for the cpu fan. it's an option in my bios, i'm not sure if it controls it by temperature or cpu load but when I run prime95 i can here the pump get louder. right now at idle it's really quiet and when i touch it i feel no heat.


Tnx, +1. I'll see what the WS p67 will offer


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 250 FULL CLEAR
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks really nice









But I can barely fit my 100x80mm res.

But I guess I get that for WC in a midi case, one day I will up date to a full tower


----------



## wermad

I've seen a builds with a FrozenQ helix 400mm res











edit: might pick up a 250mm green helix....wonder how it would look w/ the Deep Blue







.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 250 FULL CLEAR
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oooooooooh pretty!


----------



## lowfat

I really like that clear reservoir. So many things I want but so few systems to build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> My eyes look up at it like a GOD. Nice Modifed tubes!


A pic of the other side. WIP obviously. Will be much neater.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Will be much neater.
> 
> http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/tulcakelume/PCA77F/bokkeh.jpg


How much more organized can you get? It looks freakin' awesome!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I really like that clear reservoir. So many things I want but so few systems to build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> My eyes look up at it like a GOD. Nice Modifed tubes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pic of the other side. WIP obviously. Will be much neater.
Click to expand...

Off topic!







...

But seriously now, I'm just jelly. That is some really damned fine Cable management from what I can see behind the sleeving material.










What are you using to secure your cables?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Off topic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> But seriously now, I'm just jelly. That is some really damned fine Cable management from what I can see behind the sleeving material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you using to secure your cables?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Con't off-topic: you going PD?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I really like that clear reservoir. So many things I want but so few systems to build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pic of the other side. WIP obviously. Will be much neater.










So you're going to put combs or lacing every 2 inches so no single wire ever crosses another one... because unless that's what you're saying I seriously don't think "_much_ neater" is even possible!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you're going to put combs or lacing every 2 inches so no single wire ever crosses another one... because unless that's what you're saying I seriously don't think "_much_ neater" is even possible!


No wires will be crossing over each other. But I won't be using lace either.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What are you using to secure your cables?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The cables are held in place with retention bars that I screwed in place. You can see more in my Big build log in my sig.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> Is that the M184 or M160 in your avatar? If so, what is it cooling and what are your temps?


keeping guess.. Ha, HA! unforunately, My avatar is an actual BLK ICE II 240..


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> keeping guess.. Ha, HA! unforunately, My avatar is an actual BLK ICE II 240..


Either the picture is squashed or you're using 38mm thick fans then?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> Either the picture is squashed or you're using 38mm thick fans then?


I'm guessing the former - although both may be true.


----------



## jellybeans69

Question to all watercooling gurus:

What am i missing here except for fittings/tubes/fans? Still a newbie regarding watercooling but intending to build my first ever custom loop. Cpu only - i5-3570k to be cooled with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Ave you thought about using temperature probes and possibly a flowmeter of some type? Either visial or electronic? Seems like everything is there except maybe your fans for your Radiator. Remember not all fans are alike. Oh and how about a mounting kit for that Jingway pump. Those are pretty noisy from what I see people here saying so I would get a mounting kit and decoupler for it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> keeping guess.. Ha, HA! unforunately, My avatar is an actual BLK ICE II 240..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either the picture is squashed or you're using 38mm thick fans then?
Click to expand...

Actually it's an angle shot(doubt it's squooshed







) and it looks like he's got shrouds converted from fan bodies. Thicker than 25 but thinner than 35 if I hazard a guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## jellybeans69

Yes i know not all fans are the same i've owned allmighty 60db 350+cfm delta too once







, 3x ~70-100 cfm fans should do for radiator i guess. Regarding temp probes - you mean something like this ->







?

Also is NZXT phantom big enough to fit current setup if anyone can comment on it?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> Either the picture is squashed or you're using 38mm thick fans then?


this is my former version rig before upgraded from HAF 922 to HAF X....

















got it?


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> this is my former version rig before upgraded from HAF 922 to HAF X....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got it?


Still looks odd in the avatar lol. squashed a litttle?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That is correct
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was under the impression the 3.25, just like the 3.2, can be regulated via a fan controller *too*. Apparently you can't. Could be due to the pwm feature and hence why that maybe the only option to lower the power on the 3.25 (aka mcp35x).
> edit: its like taking a pwm fan and hooking it up to your fan controller


There's always the option of building your own manual PWM controller, and adding a switch to allow mobo or manual control of the pump speed.

This is my version, it runs triple 35Xs with no problem. I set the fan profile to be more agressive so it ramps up quicker when in mobo control which also lets it run slower than I have the manual minimum set at, but it holds the temps OK.

Darlene

I actually made 2 of them, one to install in my rig, and one for a reference and to have for testing.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There's always the option of building your own manual PWM controller, and adding a switch to allow mobo or manual control of the pump speed.
> This is my version, it runs triple 35Xs with no problem. I set the fan profile to be more agressive so it ramps up quicker when in mobo control which also lets it run slower than I have the manual minimum set at, but it holds the temps OK.
> I actually made 2 of them, one to install in my rig, and one for a reference and to have for testing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip


Oh, nice!
Quote:


>


I've seen *cars* with less controls.


----------



## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There's always the option of building your own manual PWM controller, and adding a switch to allow mobo or manual control of the pump speed.
> This is my version, it runs triple 35Xs with no problem. I set the fan profile to be more agressive so it ramps up quicker when in mobo control which also lets it run slower than I have the manual minimum set at, but it holds the temps OK.
> Darlene
> I actually made 2 of them, one to install in my rig, and one for a reference and to have for testing.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn Darlene ! I wish I was even 1/10 as bright as you are, always coming up with these custom touches show off how well those synapses are firing.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 250 FULL CLEAR
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You! Haha, where did you get yours from? I've been eyeing the exact same res on FCPU for a couple weeks now, it's out of stock and I really want one.


----------



## bundymania

Some nice products from Aquacomputer...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Off topic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> But seriously now, I'm just jelly. That is some really damned fine Cable management from what I can see behind the sleeving material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you using to secure your cables?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lowfat is one of the best if not the best! I have been following his work on my Canadian site since my pc addiction affliction started. He is my number one inspiration and I strive to one day make builds as beautiful as his.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Question to all watercooling gurus:
> 
> What am i missing here except for fittings/tubes/fans? Still a newbie regarding watercooling but intending to build my first ever custom loop. Cpu only - i5-3570k to be cooled with it.


Like Ceadder said that pump is not quiet at all, even decoupled, if you are wanting to save money with just a CPU loop get the 2.0 pump. I hated my 4.0 but have read many people being happy with the 2.0 for simple loops.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You! Haha, where did you get yours from? I've been eyeing the exact same res on FCPU for a couple weeks now, it's out of stock and I really want one.


*TA.. DA.........*


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know if the 35x has a thermal shutdown? I've had it stopped working three instances and noticed its hot as heck. I'm running my fans at 40% so there a decent amount of airflow going to it. This happens when my fans are in low speed and the system in full load, which leads me to believe that the pump is getting too hot and shutting down. I'm running the pump from the psu. I can't start my system since the pump just nudges and sounds like its struggling to start. Once its cooled down, it starts right up without a whim
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Btw, the pump didn't like being hooked up to the fan controller (unlike the 3.2) and I have yet to setup pwm.


I ran mine wide open but with the Swiftech heat sink for about 10 hours and the heat sink was super hot all the time. I have it controlled manually at 60% voltage through an AQ5 now and also have an Evercool 15mm fan mounted to the heat sink. Seems to be doing a pretty good job even if the pump is run at full voltage. Otherwise these are some hot pumps, at least mine throws off a lot from the heat sink.
Waiting on some more sensors so I can set up some scaling in the software for the pump speed.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> *TA.. DA.........*


Well thanks! And it's cheaper there


----------



## Fuganater

PPCs is normally cheaper than Frozen CPU.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> PPCs is normally cheaper than Frozen CPU.


I have even had the guys at PPCs order stuff from EK for me to save me about $25 in shipping. Can't speak highly enough about those guys


----------



## jellybeans69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Like Ceadder said that pump is not quiet at all, even decoupled, if you are wanting to save money with just a CPU loop get the 2.0 pump. I hated my 4.0 but have read many people being happy with the 2.0 for simple loops.


Any thoughts on MagiCool Deep Quiet 700 - DC12V vs EK 2.0 pump?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I ran mine wide open but with the Swiftech heat sink for about 10 hours and the heat sink was super hot all the time. I have it controlled manually at 60% voltage through an AQ5 now and also have an Evercool 15mm fan mounted to the heat sink. Seems to be doing a pretty good job even if the pump is run at full voltage. Otherwise these are some hot pumps, at least mine throws off a lot from the heat sink.
> Waiting on some more sensors so I can set up some scaling in the software for the pump speed.


Hmmm.... this is interresting. I haven't started using my dual 35x pumps yet but I do have dual PMP-400's in my other rig. Even wide open for however long, they never get "hot". They have the koolance heatsinks on them (sink is actually directly on the circut board via thermal pad vs swiftech's sink on outer case of pump via thermal pad). I do not have a fan directly on the sinks but there is a fan blowing air through a radiator over the pumps as well.

Anyone running the Dual swiftech top with dual 35x pumps and heatsink with the fan? Any comments ont the pump temps?


----------



## strong island 1

I'm running the 35x right now plugged into the mobo cpu header. The Rampage IV Extreme controls it really well and I just used default settings in bios. When just web browsing or something the pump is barely on. I thought my loop was broken at first because it seemed like the pump wasn't running. As soon as I turn on a game or run prime 95 you can here the pump kick in immediately. I have no heat sink on it or fan blowing on it. It does get warm when running full load but most of the time when gaming im not on full load so it never really gets hot. This pump seems really powerful and is great with the pwm control. When I first filled up my res the first time I turned on the power supply and I couldn't believe how fast the pump sucked the water out of the res, it really surprised me at first.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Hey Guys,

Have question for you watercooling Guru's, I'm new to it what is best way to get air out of a loop? I got my loop back together last night, but air being trapped inside was causing me issues.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> Have question for you watercooling Guru's, I'm new to it what is best way to get air out of a loop? I got my loop back together last night, but air being trapped inside was causing me issues.


Usually just rocking the case around gets it out for me....little back and forth action.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I'm running the 35x right now plugged into the mobo cpu header. The Rampage IV Extreme controls it really well and I just used default settings in bios. When just web browsing or something the pump is barely on. I thought my loop was broken at first because it seemed like the pump wasn't running. As soon as I turn on a game or run prime 95 you can here the pump kick in immediately. I have no heat sink on it or fan blowing on it. It does get warm when running full load but most of the time when gaming im not on full load so it never really gets hot. This pump seems really powerful and is great with the pwm control. When I first filled up my res the first time I turned on the power supply and I couldn't believe how fast the pump sucked the water out of the res, it really surprised me at first.


Do not use the mobo fan header. You will fry it.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> Have question for you watercooling Guru's, I'm new to it what is best way to get air out of a loop? I got my loop back together last night, but air being trapped inside was causing me issues.


I am super lucky and have never had this problem with either of the loops I've built.

From what I've read you want to keep adjusting the pump level if possible and tilt the computer in every direction maybe give it a little shake.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Highscore,

I ran across this before, Where the the water pressure is weak flowing through the tube. when I got everything I made a mini loop outside my case, same problem, at 1st I thought my pump was crap, but I got the bitpower mod top and bottom for my pump. Well I took it apart and put it back together then all was well.

when I put it back together after cleaning it again, Guess I didn't get it right like 1st time on mini loop. Guess tonight I'm going have to drain my loop and pull my pump apart and put it together. Just looking for different choices, I drain my loop so much lastnight trying to get air thing sorted it out. Was hooping to try void it again, oh the joy of watercooling.


----------



## NewHighScore

Don't drain your loop in effort to get the air out! That is not going to help. Like I said fiddle with your pump settings hi low hi low hi low hi low and make sure your reservoir cap is closed tight and give your computer a tilt and shake in each direction a few times.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Usually just rocking the case around gets it out for me....little back and forth action.


^This - always did the trick for me. A little side-to-side action accompanied by the occasional bump and jiggle. (A jiggle is a bit more than a waggle, but far less violent than a full-out shake...in case you aren't sure).


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> ^This - always did the trick for me. A little side-to-side action accompanied by the occasional bump and jiggle. (A jiggle is a bit more than a waggle, but far less violent than a full-out shake...in case you aren't sure).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:


----------



## _Killswitch_

well admittly lastnight Few of drains because I decided I wanted my tubing done differently. Most of of the air trapped inside which was causing where the fluid wouldnt completely fill tubes, aka have weak flow. It was cycling just was very sad.

I'll try the pump settings ideas tonight when I get home. Just I was getting little annoyed lastnight fildding with it, I did whole rocking my case thing many of times, didn't help much.


----------



## NewHighScore

If your pump isn't moving liquid through the tubes and air is impeding the flow then I would say there is something wrong with your pump. Did you happen to run it dry by accident?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> Do not use the mobo fan header. You will fry it.


I believe he was referring specifically to the power management dongle that is attached to the 35x pump. Power is run to the pump via a separate connector and the PWM simply tells the pump when to turn on.







Therfore the header is not providing power to the pump directly, just managing the amount of time the pump is on/off


----------



## CircuitFreak

Killswitch, Not sure how much room you have or how flexible your positioning is but always have my res as the highest point in the loop. Air wants to go up and any help you can give it makes it easier. I know I don't have a huge complex loop like most people but I have never had to rock my case, I just fill up and go.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> If your pump isn't moving liquid through the tubes and air is impeding the flow then I would say there is something wrong with your pump. Did you happen to run it dry by accident?


High,

My pump is find because it run my loop before fine. 1st time I had my loop inside my case, I filled res and everything went beautifully. Problem I have now is same issue I had with the mini I did before putting everything the case, which seem to disappear when I took my pump apart and back together, but put together with a different way.

So I'm just drain my loop tonight, pull my pump apart put together way I did when I didn't have issues, and see what happens


----------



## Rickles

hopefully you didn't burn out your pump when you were running it incorrectly set up


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There's always the option of building your own manual PWM controller, and adding a switch to allow mobo or manual control of the pump speed.
> This is my version, it runs triple 35Xs with no problem. I set the fan profile to be more agressive so it ramps up quicker when in mobo control which also lets it run slower than I have the manual minimum set at, but it holds the temps OK.
> Darlene
> I actually made 2 of them, one to install in my rig, and one for a reference and to have for testing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome







. I'm going to plug into the mb header though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I ran mine wide open but with the Swiftech heat sink for about 10 hours and the heat sink was super hot all the time. I have it controlled manually at 60% voltage through an AQ5 now and also have an Evercool 15mm fan mounted to the heat sink. Seems to be doing a pretty good job even if the pump is run at full voltage. Otherwise these are some hot pumps, at least mine throws off a lot from the heat sink.
> Waiting on some more sensors so I can set up some scaling in the software for the pump speed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Hmmm.... this is interresting. I haven't started using my dual 35x pumps yet but I do have dual PMP-400's in my other rig. Even wide open for however long, they never get "hot". They have the koolance heatsinks on them (sink is actually directly on the circut board via thermal pad vs swiftech's sink on outer case of pump via thermal pad). I do not have a fan directly on the sinks but there is a fan blowing air through a radiator over the pumps as well.
> Anyone running the Dual swiftech top with dual 35x pumps and heatsink with the fan? Any comments ont the pump temps?


The ddc 3.2 (aka pmp-400) doesnt run as hot in full power and I was able to drop the voltage using my controller. I had a few 3.2 and I still regard it as a great all around pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> Do not use the mobo fan header. You will fry it.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I believe he was referring specifically to the power management dongle that is attached to the 35x pump. Power is run to the pump via a separate connector and the PWM simply tells the pump when to turn on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Therfore the header is not providing power to the pump directly, just managing the amount of time the pump is on/off
Click to expand...

This.

The 35x has a molex connector with the ground and 12v line. the 4-pin fan connector attached to it has the blue and green lines for sensor and pwm.

I kept my fans in full blast while gaming last night and I didn't have issues with the pump.


----------



## phillyd

Hey guys! I just wanted to let you know that I will now be acting as the Hardware rep for Performance-PC's. PM me with any questions or concerns related to PPCS. Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys! I just wanted to let you know that I will now be acting as the Hardware rep for Performance-PC's. PM me with any questions or concerns related to PPCS. Thanks!


Are they opening a store in Indiana? I know they're located in Florida


----------



## phillyd

I wish! I'm just acting as a customer service liaison for them here on OCN.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I wish! I'm just acting as a customer service liaison for them here on OCN.


That must come with some nice perks


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> That must come with some nice perks


I sure do like the job!


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys! I just wanted to let you know that I will now be acting as the Hardware rep for Performance-PC's. PM me with any questions or concerns related to PPCS. Thanks!


Nice! Your first act as rep should be should be to get give out some free stuff


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I sure do like the job!


Heeeey, that's some cool news right there. I just happened to place an order with them too. Good job.









EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Nice! Your first act as rep should be should be to get give out some free stuff


^Have to agree with that!


----------



## phillyd

I would if i could guys!


----------



## scutzi128

Here is my rig.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I would if i could guys!












Any news if they will offer a *permanent* discount code? Like frozencpu: "pcapex" or Jab-Tech: "facebook" ?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


Slap some carbon fiber vinyl on that ugly SLI bridge and the build would be 100% orgasmic.


----------



## Fonne

Is thinking of getting 2x BitFenix Spectre PWM 140mm to Push/Pull - Any that is using them ?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17317/fan-1120/BitFenix_Spectre_All_White_140mm_PWM_Fan_BFF-SCF-P14025WW-RP.html

Dimensions (mm): 140 x 140 x 25
Current (A): 24.2 dB(A)
Speed (RPM): 700-1800 RPM ±10%
Air Flow (CFM): 56.1 CFM
Noise (dB-A): 24.2 dB(A)
Air Pressure (mmH2O): 2.14 mmH2O

Looks pretty nice on spec and decent pressure ...


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scutzi128*
> 
> Here is my rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude.... that is pimptastic. eerily similar to color scheme I'll be using in my SR-2 quad 480 build Force1














. Oh, and some of these fans would look sick in there too










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys! I just wanted to let you know that I will now be acting as the Hardware rep for Performance-PC's. PM me with any questions or concerns related to PPCS. Thanks!


Congrats! After I finish my current project I will probably get in touch with you regarding a build after that







.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scutzi128*
> 
> Here is my rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking rig, Quick question: Is that a LED in the reservoir?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys! I just wanted to let you know that I will now be acting as the Hardware rep for Performance-PC's. PM me with any questions or concerns related to PPCS. Thanks!


Awesome! Grats on the position!

Any word on when those EK D5 X-Res's will be in stock?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scutzi128*
> 
> Here is my rig.


Can you tell what your slot arrange is? It looks like you have two slots in between. My interest is that sli bridge. I had been searching for an sli bridge that offers that kind of spacing. I ultimately ended up using ribbons bridges.

Awesome rig btw









edit: I went to Asrock's site and I found pcie1, 4, & 6 for triple sli. It would have been awesome a couple of months ago knowing this as I needed a bridge for this triple setup.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Awesome! Grats on the position!
> 
> Any word on when those EK D5 X-Res's will be in stock?


I'll ask for you! And thanks!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys! I just wanted to let you know that I will now be acting as the Hardware rep for Performance-PC's. PM me with any questions or concerns related to PPCS. Thanks!


Excellent ! I buy 90% from PPC'S, So Now for the Other 10% I have someone to Bother About it...







~~









Congrats on that Position


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> PPCs is normally cheaper than Frozen CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> I have even had the guys at PPCs order stuff from EK for me to save me about $25 in shipping. Can't speak highly enough about those guys
Click to expand...

Same for my fans from Japan. Because I asked them to do so they carry Yate Loon DSH12-12C 120x20s' when no one else carries them. I'm not sure how many they sell but if you need a High Speed 120 for a slim mounting profile they have them. I needed em because of the 30FPI rating of my Black Ice GT Stealth II Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys! I just wanted to let you know that I will now be acting as the Hardware rep for Performance-PC's. PM me with any questions or concerns related to PPCS. Thanks!


.

Congrats. I buy about 90% of my water cooling stuff from ppcs. The other 10% is from local or the egg as shipping is a little cheaper to me from Cali. I hope you do well and good luck.


----------



## Zertag111000

Nice rig man.....Post more high resolution pictures of your gaming PC. What is your Nvidia 3D settings....2 GPU+1Physix. Are you overclocking the video cards and what are the settings Core_________ Memory _______ Shader__________.


----------



## NewHighScore

I'm thinking about giving PPC's a try next time. I'm in Canada so I have never ordered from them so far.


----------



## Michalius

PPC's is my go to place. I don't have anything against any of the other retailers, but PPC's has gone way above and beyond the few times I've needed some customer support. They respond to emails so quickly, and just go that extra mile. Love that kind of ethic.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> PPC's is my go to place. I don't have anything against any of the other retailers, but PPC's has gone way above and beyond the few times I've needed some customer support. They respond to emails so quickly, and just go that extra mile. Love that kind of ethic.


.

Same here. The service has been great even when I messed up my order. Response was quick and handled to my liking. I should have a package waiting for me when I get home from work today from PPCS. Can't wait to get off of work. It's like Santa comes early when I order from them.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^







Somehow I think I've stepped into a PPCs' advertising campaign.









Meh, I buy from PPCs because they have everything I need more than anyone else. I can't say they go above and beyond more than anyone else would but they do have everyfin so that's where I go. Too bad my Mod Ruler is only carried by FrozenPC. I try to stay away from Frozen cause their shipping cost is insane. Same distance different geographical location higher cost. I think they need to do something about their shipping generator.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I'm thinking about giving PPC's a try next time. I'm in Canada so I have never ordered from them so far.


Be careful if you do use PPC. I bought a lot from them over the past few years, but make sure you don't specify UPS, as there will be a big brokerage fee added on to the cost when UPS delivers your order. On my last, and likely final, two orders from PPC, I specified USPS (US Postal Service) to avoid the huge UPS brokerage fees, but PPC sent them both by UPS anyway. It cost me about $75 in extra brokerage fees because they shipped the orders by UPS. That extra cost really hurt.

I've been buying from FrozenCPU since then, and they gladly send my orders by USPS, saving me a fortune in brokerage fees. They even warn about orders to Canada using UPS for that reason.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow I think I've stepped into a PPCs' advertising campaign.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meh, I buy from PPCs because they have everything I need more than anyone else. I can't say they go above and beyond more than anyone else would but they do have everyfin so that's where I go. Too bad my Mod Ruler is only carried by FrozenPC. I try to stay away from Frozen cause their shipping cost is insane. Same distance different geographical location higher cost. I think they need to do something about their shipping generator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Whats wrong with this picture?

16 Bits power fittings-USPS postage to Europe from the States *19.95USD*(tracking inc)-not a private sale, its from a recognised small sized water cooling retailer.

1x EK HF supreme acrylic top (for sale on the site for 19.95)-USPS postage to Europe from the States *37 USD!!!!*(tracking inc)-again from a recognised water cooling retailer.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Whats wrong with this picture?
> 16 Bits power fittings-USPS postage to Europe from the States *19.95USD*(tracking inc)-not a private sale, its from a recognised small sized water cooling retailer.
> 1x EK HF supreme acrylic top (for sale on the site for 19.95)-USPS postage to Europe from the States *37 USD!!!!*(tracking inc)-again from a recognised water cooling retailer.


The first could be usps "first class international". It takes longer (2-6 weeks). You may need to pay your country's customs/duty fees.

Second could be usps "priority". This is faster and it has a higher insurance value. Plus, there's a chance that ppcs is paying for any customs/duty fees.

USPS does *not* provide any tracking. I've shipped ~30 packages overseas with them and I learned early on that they don't offer for international shipments.

You take your chances. Most ppl that I send stuff too opt for the cheap International First Class but I've had a package take ~6 weeks to get delivered and several that were held up by customs.

Why not order from a UK or EU site? You can even order the top from EK directly.









I would recommend aquatunning.com for yah


----------



## NewHighScore

USPS offers tracking numbers for my international orders to Canada.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> USPS offers tracking numbers for my international orders to Canada.


Can you actually track them? I know I've sent a few priority mail ones which come with free tracking (online purchase though) and they never show anything. I've asked multiple times and all the post office clerks say that there's really no tracking for international shipments. Maybe you're in or near a border city?


----------



## NewHighScore

Yes It always makes a couple stops before it makes it to canada and I can monitor it's status the whole way. Once it comes to canada I can simply enter the tracking number into canadapost website. Maybe they only offer this for Canada.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Yes It always makes a couple stops before it makes it to canada and I can monitor it's status the whole way. Once it comes to canada I can simply enter the tracking number into canadapost website. Maybe they only offer this for Canada.


ah ok, it definitely tracks in the US but once in Canada, its up to your post I guess. Didn't know that Canadian post was able to accept the #. I've heard FedEx can too. But it proves that usps doesn't track your package all the way. I know for Canada, a recipient was able to use the receipt to find his package. Ultimately, you can't say the same for every country. One of the many reasons usps is on the chopping block, they're really not the best


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The first could be usps "first class international". It takes longer (2-6 weeks). You may need to pay your country's customs/duty fees.
> Second could be usps "priority". This is faster and it has a higher insurance value. Plus, there's a chance that ppcs is paying for any customs/duty fees.
> USPS does *not* provide any tracking. I've shipped ~30 packages overseas with them and I learned early on that they don't offer for international shipments.
> You take your chances. Most ppl that I send stuff too opt for the cheap International First Class but I've had a package take ~6 weeks to get delivered and several that were held up by customs.
> Why not order from a UK or EU site? You can even order the top from EK directly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend aquatunning.com for yah


No they are both the same exact class of shipping, tracking *IS* available, and they are not the higher class of payment.

Customs duties have nothing what so ever to do with the postage rates-i pay my own duty fees, and anyway, the EK top falls way under the amount of non taxed goods (50 euro is the cut off point for no paid duty).

BOTH were/are USPS prioroty 3-5 days (insurance is charged in accordance with the value of the goods being sent







)

EK stopped selling clear plexi tops 7 months ago-Gregor over @ EK was my first port of call.

Same applies to Aquatuning-no clear tops either.

I did not say that i was referring to PPC mate, please dont give the wrong impression









Although, i will give you another example of ridiculous postage fees-go to sidewinder, enter for example 4 m of durelene tubing and see what the postage is to the states-then enter as destination some European country, and watch the amount sky rocket.

So i get my US retailer that i shop from to buy the durelene for me and add it to my order, and i pay him for US postage rates+5 dollars as a thank you.

The truth is, that many US dealers when dealing with overseas customers charge way over the top, and there is also no uniformity in their prices, they quote what they want, because they know that for a customer from Europe for example to be shopping at their store, means unavailability of whatever they are looking for in Europe.

Basic supply/demand costing laws-but all that does is alienate their overseas customers in the long run








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That was long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and you failed to mention which shipping options, I gave you a possibility. Also, the tracking stops in the US. The rest is up to your country's post system. Read the few posts after the one you said "this". Also, don't complain if you're looking for an EOL product or item. If you desperately want an item no longer being made, buy it from where ever. I would just move and buy something current and immediately available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but that's just me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


read my post carefully-and you are missing the point-screw the customer over for a top, and have them not shop ever again @ your shop, or provide decent postal rates and encourage them to return, thus making more money in the long run-obvious answer mate*-ok ill draw a line under this, im done with this topic since im way OT







*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> USPS offers tracking numbers for my international orders to Canada.


*THIS^*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> To cut a long story short-no they are both the same exact class of shipping, tracking *IS* available, and they are not the higher class of payment.
> Customs duties have nothing what so ever to do with the postage rates-i pay my own duty fees, and anyway, the EK top falls way under the amount of non taxed goods (50 euro is the cut off point for no paid duty).
> BOTH were/are USPS prioroty 3-5 days (insurance is charged in accordance with the value of the goods being sent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> EK stopped selling clear plexi tops 7 months ago-Gregor over @ EK was my first port of call.
> Same applies to Aquatuning-no clear tops either.
> I did not say that i was referring to PPC mate, please dont give the wrong impression
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although, i will give you another example of ridiculous postage fees-go to sidewinder, enter for example 4 m of durelene tubing and see what the postage is to the states-then enter as destination some European country, and watch the amount sky rocket.
> So i get my US retailer that i shop from to buy the durelene for me and add it to my order, and i pay him for US postage rates+5 dollars as a thank you.
> *THIS^*


That was long







... and you failed to mention which shipping options, I gave you a possibility. Also, the tracking stops in the US. The rest is up to your country's post system. Read the few posts after the one you said "this". Try not to sound like your complaining of shipping if you're looking for an EOL product or item. If you desperately want an item no longer being made, buy it from where ever. I would just move on and buy something current and immediately available







, but that's just me







.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Yes It always makes a couple stops before it makes it to canada and I can monitor it's status the whole way. Once it comes to canada I can simply enter the tracking number into canadapost website. Maybe they only offer this for Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> ah ok, it definitely tracks in the US but once in Canada, its up to your post I guess. Didn't know that Canadian post was able to accept the #. I've heard FedEx can too. But it proves that usps doesn't track your package all the way. I know for Canada, a recipient was able to use the receipt to find his package. Ultimately, you can't say the same for every country. One of the many reasons usps is on the chopping block, they're really not the best
Click to expand...

I've also tracked orders shipped by USPS Priority Mail International, from FrozenCPU, to the Vancouver area. Same as NewHighScore mentioned. But you're right that USPS doesn't track the shipment to your door, only to the border. But the shipping cost is far less than UPS charges.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I've also tracked orders shipped by USPS Priority Mail International, from FrozenCPU, to the Vancouver area. Same as NewHighScore mentioned. But you're right that USPS doesn't track the shipment to your door, only to the border. But the shipping cost is far less than *UPS charges*.


Yes, UPS and FedEx are a bit pricey for consumer shipments. USPS tends to be better so I ship from them. Also, their site allows you to fill out the customs form immediately online.


----------



## Gunsrunner

Hi peeps, I am no longer water cooling my PC, leaks hurt too much!








But I thought I could post some pics of my water cooling loop from work, I will post some figures later. I'm trying to work out how many 120mm fans we could fit.








ENJOY:thumb:

around 2000mm outer diameter, the tank holds 40ton is for expansion, this is a closed loop system.

Loop pumps, draw 330amps at 440volts each. We run 2 at a time in rotation.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunsrunner*
> 
> Hi peeps, I am no longer water cooling my PC, leaks hurt too much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I thought I could post some pics of my water cooling loop from work, I will post some figures later. I'm trying to work out how many 120mm fans we could fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ENJOY:thumb:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What size tubing is that?


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunsrunner*
> 
> Hi peeps, I am no longer water cooling my PC, leaks hurt too much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I thought I could post some pics of my water cooling loop from work, I will post some figures later. I'm trying to work out how many 120mm fans we could fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ENJOY:thumb:


Hey dude, Nice rig, looks very clean, love the cable managment








What pump are you using, i see you are using 2000mx2000m tubing which has less kinks








Loving the blue color scheme and it all fit into a SFF case?
Well done








What are the temps like under load?


----------



## Plutonium10

I just got my Watercool 7970 GPU block and backplate. The backplate is pretty much spotless, but the exterior of the GPU block has 3 or 4 pockmarks and a few minor scratches in the nickel plating, as well as some circular machining marks on the bottom. Haven't checked inside yet. Should I exchange it for another one, or is a less-than-perfect surface finish normal?


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I just got my Watercool 7970 GPU block and backplate. The backplate is pretty much spotless, but the exterior of the GPU block has 3 or 4 pockmarks and a few minor scratches in the nickel plating, as well as some circular machining marks on the bottom. Haven't checked inside yet. Should I exchange it for another one, or is a less-than-perfect surface finish normal?


Is it the EK blocks? Because if you mean the circles all over it, that the CSQ design.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunsrunner*
> 
> Hi peeps, I am no longer water cooling my PC, leaks hurt too much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I thought I could post some pics of my water cooling loop from work, I will post some figures later. I'm trying to work out how many 120mm fans we could fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ENJOY:thumb:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> around 2000mm outer diameter, the tank holds 40ton is for expansion, this is a closed loop system.
> 
> Loop pumps, draw 330amps at 440volts each. We run 2 at a time in rotation.


Sad to see you leave the pool









That's an impressive "setup" you got going on there







. Yes, but can it run Crysis?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I just got my Watercool 7970 GPU block and backplate. The backplate is pretty much spotless, but the exterior of the GPU block has 3 or 4 pockmarks and a few minor scratches in the nickel plating, as well as some circular machining marks on the bottom. Haven't checked inside yet. Should I exchange it for another one, or is a less-than-perfect surface finish normal?


I purchased a few HK blocks and some times there are light scratches but nothing too serious. Some blocks (especially copper base ones) may show signs of machining and some or no polishing. As long the core contact area is smooth as possible you shouldn't have any worries about thermal performance. In terms of looks and paying for good products, its up to you. Talk to the retailer i you really need to get this exchanged. I have a suspicion they may ask you to rma it with the manufacturer.

May I ask which block and company is it?


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scutzi128*
> 
> Here is my rig.






Man, that rez is like a mini sun inside that build! Awesome


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I purchased a few HK blocks and some times there are light scratches but nothing too serious. Some blocks (especially copper base ones) may show signs of machining and some or no polishing. As long the core contact area is smooth as possible you shouldn't have any worries about thermal performance. In terms of looks and paying for good products, its up to you. Talk to the retailer i you really need to get this exchanged. I have a suspicion they may ask you to rma it with the manufacturer.
> May I ask which block and company is it?


It's a Watercool GPU-X3 79X0 Nickel block that I got from Dazmode. Im not concerned about the machining marks since they will never be visible, but the marks in the nickel plating do concern me a bit. It just remains to be seen if there's any marks inside the block or not. I'll email Dazmode and see what the situation is.


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunsrunner*
> 
> Hi peeps, I am no longer water cooling my PC, leaks hurt too much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I thought I could post some pics of my water cooling loop from work, I will post some figures later. I'm trying to work out how many 120mm fans we could fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ENJOY:thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> around 2000mm outer diameter, the tank holds 40ton is for expansion, this is a closed loop system.
> 
> Loop pumps, draw 330amps at 440volts each. We run 2 at a time in rotation.


looks like you went full custom with that... can provide a link to the build log?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow I think I've stepped into a PPCs' advertising campaign.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meh, I buy from PPCs because they have everything I need more than anyone else. I can't say they go above and beyond more than anyone else would but they do have everyfin so that's where I go. Too bad my Mod Ruler is only carried by FrozenPC. I try to stay away from Frozen cause their shipping cost is insane. Same distance different geographical location higher cost. I think they need to do something about their shipping generator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whats wrong with this picture?
> 
> 16 Bits power fittings-USPS postage to Europe from the States *19.95USD*(tracking inc)-not a private sale, its from a recognised small sized water cooling retailer.
> 
> 1x EK HF supreme acrylic top (for sale on the site for 19.95)-USPS postage to Europe from the States *37 USD!!!!*(tracking inc)-again from a recognised water cooling retailer.
Click to expand...

HK is 39,95€ for shipping before even buying from them. So if I were to buy one of their Universal blocks for my 6870 it would cost me 49.94€ VAT and shipping. Although I did put one in the cart and it's showing for 54,89€. I think that it auto corrects if I go to checkout without spending 200€.

This makes it a no go for me, so at least I can get PPCs' to order the blocks to save that crazy azz European markup and shipping.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Whats wrong with this picture?
> 16 Bits power fittings-USPS postage to Europe from the States *19.95USD*(tracking inc)-not a private sale, its from a recognised small sized water cooling retailer.
> 1x EK HF supreme acrylic top (for sale on the site for 19.95)-USPS postage to Europe from the States *37 USD!!!!*(tracking inc)-again from a recognised water cooling retailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first could be usps "first class international". It takes longer (2-6 weeks). You may need to pay your country's customs/duty fees.
> 
> Second could be usps "priority". This is faster and it has a higher insurance value. Plus, there's a chance that ppcs is paying for any customs/duty fees.
> 
> USPS does *not* provide any tracking. I've shipped ~30 packages overseas with them and I learned early on that they don't offer for international shipments.
> 
> You take your chances. Most ppl that I send stuff too opt for the cheap International First Class but I've had a package take ~6 weeks to get delivered and several that were held up by customs.
> 
> Why not order from a UK or EU site? You can even order the top from EK directly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend aquatunning.com for yah
Click to expand...

Never buy anything First Class from PPCs'. For some reason it seems to get lost. I had this happen to me one time. I will never buy First Class shipping when for not much more I can get the next fastest shipping (Priority Mail) and have my package insured to make sure it gets to me or it gets replaced.

Don't take chances with PPCs and First Class. I don't know what happens to Packages coming from them but I think that someone is pocketing hardware and reselling it on eBay when it's a First Class Package.







I cannot prove this of course but it stands to reason someone is diverting packages. when it takes 2 weeks to get to you when the tracking says it's arrived. I know for a fact my lost package was lost because the box out front only has two keys. Mine and the Postal Carrier.









PPCs' was very gracious once we got on the same page. They re-shipped the package and I got to finish my 1st loop.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> USPS offers tracking numbers for my international orders to Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you actually track them? I know I've sent a few priority mail ones which come with free tracking (online purchase though) and they never show anything. I've asked multiple times and all the post office clerks say that there's really no tracking for international shipments. Maybe you're in or near a border city?
Click to expand...

You can use the Customs tag as tracking. I know this cause I've had packages sent to me that show that it's at the customs depot being sorted out. Unfortunately it won't show much more than that except once it's finally processed and sent on it's merry way.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I just got my Watercool 7970 GPU block and backplate. The backplate is pretty much spotless, but the exterior of the GPU block has 3 or 4 pockmarks and a few minor scratches in the nickel plating, as well as some circular machining marks on the bottom. Haven't checked inside yet. Should I exchange it for another one, or is a less-than-perfect surface finish normal?


EK is kinda known for imperfections in the milling process. I don't know if it actually has pockmarks cause you didn't post a pic, but you should be able to access the block and check its condition. Make sure to contact EK before doing so however because you wouldn't want to lose your warranty without confirming that it's okay and getting that confirmation sent to your email from EK Customer service or going through the vendor you got it from. Go to the Vendor have them contact EK and then proceed from there.









~Ceadder


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK is kinda known for imperfections in the milling process. I don't know if it actually has pockmarks cause you didn't post a pic, but you should be able to access the block and check its condition. Make sure to contact EK before doing so however because you wouldn't want to lose your warranty without confirming that it's okay and getting that confirmation sent to your email from EK Customer service or going through the vendor you got it from. Go to the Vendor have them contact EK and then proceed from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Wait, I'm confused. What's this about EK? Ive got a Watercool Heatkiller block here. As far as I've been told, Watercool's quality is excellent. I will post pics tomorrow showing the defects.


----------



## phillyd

@ceadderman, first class cost us thousands between the lost packages and a few people who learned how to abuse PayPal


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Wait, I'm confused. What's this about EK? Ive got a Watercool Heatkiller block here. As far as I've been told, Watercool's quality is excellent. I will post pics tomorrow showing the defects.


A few of us still have a stigma on EK





















I think he missed your second post when you mentioned its HK. Good luck w/ Dazmode









@Ceadder....I use First class for little things and shipping in SoCal. Everything else goes Priority.

I tried my pwm plug into the cpu header and a couple of the fan headers but my mb can't detect it. Pump still runs 100% which isn't bad. I just have to remember to turn up the fans to keep it cool. My WS offers Q-mode but no use if the mb can't detect it. Could have a dude 35x, meh


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ my system is currently running a chilly 36c at Full Load with the fans sucking through the Stealth 360 II at half voltage.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK is kinda known for imperfections in the milling process. I don't know if it actually has pockmarks cause you didn't post a pic, but you should be able to access the block and check its condition. Make sure to contact EK before doing so however because you wouldn't want to lose your warranty without confirming that it's okay and getting that confirmation sent to your email from EK Customer service or going through the vendor you got it from. Go to the Vendor have them contact EK and then proceed from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, I'm confused. What's this about EK? Ive got a Watercool Heatkiller block here. As far as I've been told, Watercool's quality is excellent. I will post pics tomorrow showing the defects.
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry bro, I thought you said EK, so I picked up the ball and ran with it. My bad. Although if you think about it, it is quite easy to make that mistake if you're skim reading through the comments trying to keep up. HK, EK. EK, HK. Com si com sa, same same.







...







j/k pease address all flames to wermad for recommending $6 Black Watts tubing for my build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> @ceadderman, first class cost us thousands between the lost packages and a few people who learned how to abuse PayPal


Yeah I'm not pointing fingers phillyd, just relating my experience and recommending to never ship first class even if it's available.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

I understand and am just enforcing the advice!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A few of us still have a stigma on EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think he missed your second post when you mentioned its HK. Good luck w/ Dazmode


Dazmode said they will RMA it if I want. I'll just wait and see what you guys think after I post some pictures tomorrow. If it's well below Watercool's usual standards then I will probably RMA it and order the same block again.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I understand and am just enforcing the advice!


Gotcha sorry late night no sleep with my Acid Reflux acting up. I'm surprised I'm even halfway coherent with now.







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A few of us still have a stigma on EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think he missed your second post when you mentioned its HK. Good luck w/ Dazmode
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dazmode said they will RMA it if I want. I'll just wait and see what you guys think after I post some pictures tomorrow. If it's well below Watercool's usual standards then I will probably RMA it and order the same block again.
Click to expand...

Yeah Daz seems to be top notch as a vendor. The man has a solid walk through of what water cooling is and what you need to take on building your first loop. Every time I've interacted with him he was quite helpful.









~Ceadder


----------



## GEARjmr




----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I have to say that as far as pricing and (so far) shipping and communication PerformancePCs is the much better deal... (of course, I'm in the US so I wouldn't expect shipping to be exorbitant). At the same time, although I can definitely criticize the pricing at Frozen... the shipping is great and the inventory is worth the cost in come cases. At least thus far, that's about the only problem I have with PPCs... they seem to always be out of stock on at least half the stuff I'm looking for at any given time. As far as everything else is concerned they're great though.

And I'm fairly new to the WC obsession (erm hobby I mean) so I'm not looking for anything ridiculous or exotic... but things like duralene in 3/8x5/8 or bitspower crystal link sets... c'mon - stocking a few hundred feet of the former or 20-30 of the latter doesn't seem like too much to expect.









Congrats though on the job phillyd... hopefully I will be more patient on the next build and be able to wait for inventory to arrive better.


----------



## wermad

frozencpu has gotten good at matching some of the pricing of ppcs. I do love their shipping which tends to be a tad cheaper and then there's the 5% discount code









jab-tech and sidewinder have awesome prices but they have a low stock


----------



## Ceadderman

Why are people so blasted miserly when it comes to buying? If you say make offer, they think you're so hard up that you'll give away your gear for free lately. This is not directed at any one person but I've had a number of people PM me with absolutely laughable offers. I know the cost of my parts new, I know relatively how much it's gonna cost me to ship as well as the cost involved to ship from my vendors to me. And yet people come in with offers that seem to be designed to insult my intelligence.

I'm not mad, in fact I kina have to chuckle and roll my eyes, someone offered me $40 for ALL my fittings last week. I'm not taking a bath on my parts so people can feel all warm and fuzzy inside cause they got one over on the ole Ceadderman or got quality for a song...

Sorry about the rant guys it's more like an observation I guess because I don't care how broke somebody is, I'm broker and you can't get any more broke than me atm. That's why I'm sellin. I could be like werm and have a box full of fittings but I don't have a sugar momma... yet!









~Ceadder


----------



## Gunsrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> looks like you went full custom with that... can provide a link to the build log?


Well it just so happens, that we are in the first stages of commissioning a third plant.
$100 million down $400 mil too go







How's that for a budget!!!
Not to mention the DCS control system "Distributed Control System" Optic fibre network and all.








We have had a time lapse camera set up on the site since the beginning, I will ask if I am allowed too post some photo's.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why are people so blasted miserly when it comes to buying? If you say make offer, they think you're so hard up that you'll give away your gear for free lately. This is not directed at any one person but I've had a number of people PM me with absolutely laughable offers. I know the cost of my parts new, I know relatively how much it's gonna cost me to ship as well as the cost involved to ship from my vendors to me. And yet people come in with offers that seem to be designed to insult my intelligence.
> I'm not mad, in fact I kina have to chuckle and roll my eyes, someone offered me $40 for ALL my fittings last week. I'm not taking a bath on my parts so people can feel all warm and fuzzy inside cause they got one over on the ole Ceadderman or got quality for a song...
> Sorry about the rant guys it's more like an observation I guess because I don't care how broke somebody is, I'm broker and you can't get any more broke than me atm. That's why I'm sellin. I could be like werm and have a box full of fittings but I don't have a sugar momma... yet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


After reading this rant, Werm if you have a spare sugar mumma send her here, and Ceadder, if you do end up selling your fittings for $40, Could I please be first in line









Some people are just so not worthy to bread









Hope you find a buyer soon


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why are people so blasted miserly when it comes to buying? If you say make offer, they think you're so hard up that you'll give away your gear for free lately. This is not directed at any one person but I've had a number of people PM me with absolutely laughable offers. I know the cost of my parts new, I know relatively how much it's gonna cost me to ship as well as the cost involved to ship from my vendors to me. And yet people come in with offers that seem to be designed to insult my intelligence.
> I'm not mad, in fact I kina have to chuckle and roll my eyes, someone offered me $40 for ALL my fittings last week. I'm not taking a bath on my parts so people can feel all warm and fuzzy inside cause they got one over on the ole Ceadderman or got quality for a song...
> Sorry about the rant guys it's more like an observation I guess because I don't care how broke somebody is, I'm broker and you can't get any more broke than me atm. That's why I'm sellin. I could be like werm and have a box full of fittings but I don't have a sugar momma... yet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading this rant, Werm if you have a spare sugar mumma send her here, and Ceadder, if you do end up selling your fittings for $40, Could I please be first in line
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some people are just so not worthy to bread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you find a buyer soon
Click to expand...

Well I am quite happy with my current GF. She's turning into more than I could have expected atm so feeling a special attachment to my gentleman vegetables, I will have to decline on the sugar momma search. Much appreciated however.









Besides if I can't sell my fittings for what I want I'll have enough coming in from eBay to purchase the last of my Compression fittings and have one more to buy to complete a my loop with a GPU. so really this sale could be passed on if I had to and I could hold the Black Nickel gear for my Lady's system if she wanted me to build her one. But I'm gonna hold off on that while I'm working on Darkside. Too many irons in the fire an all. I wanna fund more of my build though so whatever happens happens. It hasn't gotten built any faster it's certainly not going anywhere. I do want to get it done but no sense rushing. Rushing only makes one sloppy.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*


Agreed,this is not a Postage thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry guys didn't mean to derail topic. Just bein different I guess.

Found some of my old pics for a before an after comparison to break up the tension.















There hope this atoned for any slight row I may have caused. Still working at perfectin my craft.









I think I may just get some Duralene and get Monsoon Angle Fittings and add lights to take my mind off the crappy white tubing currently on the market. But DAAAAAAAAYYYYYAMMMMMN those freakin fittings are damned near $50 for one complete fitting.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

Which white tubing are you using now? I have the XSPC high flex and I like it enough it's in two builds. Mine is 7/16 though. Sticking with 7/16 seems to allow a few more choices with Bitspower fittings, my fave go-to fittings.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gotcha sorry late night no sleep with my Acid Reflux acting up. I'm surprised I'm even halfway coherent with now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Yeah Daz seems to be top notch as a vendor. The man has a solid walk through of what water cooling is and what you need to take on building your first loop. Every time I've interacted with him he was quite helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dazmode is top notch vendor for any Canadians who are wondering. He has excellent customer service and I love to ship at Dazmode when I can! The only problem I have with Daz is that he is lazy updating his stock levels on the website. If an item says out of stock it very well might be in stock. I have had to email him a couple times about specific items which were labelled out of stock on the website when he in fact has it in stock. Also the selection is not as big as some other vendors but like I said, great customer service!

Highly recommended.


----------



## _Killswitch_

So been having issues with my loop, I asked my step-dad for advice since He has been working on Hydrualic systems/cylinders since 94 (owns his own Hydraulic/Machining bussiness).

He came in while my loop was running, he notice from res >pump in> pump out to port in rad was full of fluid, but from the rad out > cpu in > cpu out to res tubing wasn't very full. He looked at me was like in my opinion your pump appear's to be fine but your cpu block doesn't seem to be flowing the water correctly. Appear's something isn't working right inside your block.

He advice was get some distilled water, clean off my computer desk set-up little loop with my pump/ cpu block/ rad and play with it, that way it be easier to fix anything and determind if something still is wrong with my flow.

So going to stop, and get some distill water tonight, get everything apart and go from there, going to order some more tubing when I get paid also.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> I think I may just get some Duralene and get Monsoon Angle Fittings and add lights to take my mind off the crappy white tubing currently on the market. But DAAAAAAAAYYYYYAMMMMMN those freakin fittings are damned near $50 for one complete fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hey I hear ya! I waited for months on those Monsoon angled fittings. When I fou d out they were offering the LED option I was ecstatic! I left the zip-tied-barbs on my system awaiting the glorious day that I could order all my Monsoons.......then that day came......PPCs had the fittings! As I started perusing the isles of the online shop I realized that the angled fittings were adding up awfully fast, monetarily speaking. When I finished, I reviewed my shopping cart, swallowed the lump in my throat, and began painfully removing the angled fittings from my basket. In the end I went with 2 six packs of the standard Monsoon fittings. Your right Cead - It would have cost me as much (or more) for 2 complete 90s with LEDs, as it did for the 12 standard fittings. In that moment I was so ashamed of my addiction.... But I'm over it


----------



## intelman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunsrunner*


What kind of plant is this? After graduating college in May I've been working at an integration firm programming PLC/SCADA systems for DCS's. We mainly work on water/waste water plants though


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> So been having issues with my loop, I asked my step-dad for advice since He has been working on Hydrualic systems/cylinders since 94 (owns his own Hydraulic/Machining bussiness).
> He came in while my loop was running, he notice from res >pump in> pump out to port in rad was full of fluid, but from the rad out > cpu in > cpu out to res tubing wasn't very full. He looked at me was like in my opinion your pump appear's to be fine but your cpu block doesn't seem to be flowing the water correctly. Appear's something isn't working right inside your block.
> He advice was get some distilled water, clean off my computer desk set-up little loop with my pump/ cpu block/ rad and play with it, that way it be easier to fix anything and determind if something still is wrong with my flow.
> So going to stop, and get some distill water tonight, get everything apart and go from there, going to order some more tubing when I get paid also.


Good idea. I hope you can find the problem and get it working good. Is it possible you had the water going out of the cpu out instead of in? I don't know if it would make much of a diff just thought I'd ask.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> In that moment I was so ashamed of my addiction.... But I'm over it


I soooooooooooo know what you are feeling brother.... but I am not over it!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> So been having issues with my loop, I asked my step-dad for advice since He has been working on Hydrualic systems/cylinders since 94 (owns his own Hydraulic/Machining bussiness).
> He came in while my loop was running, he notice from res >pump in> pump out to port in rad was full of fluid, but from the rad out > cpu in > cpu out to res tubing wasn't very full. He looked at me was like in my opinion your pump appear's to be fine but your cpu block doesn't seem to be flowing the water correctly. Appear's something isn't working right inside your block.
> He advice was get some distilled water, clean off my computer desk set-up little loop with my pump/ cpu block/ rad and play with it, that way it be easier to fix anything and determind if something still is wrong with my flow.
> So going to stop, and get some distill water tonight, get everything apart and go from there, going to order some more tubing when I get paid also.


Everything seems to be very complicated for your loop recently, best of luck !
You think your mayhem can create such those problem?


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I soooooooooooo know what you are feeling brother.... but I am not over it!


You know what really gets to me, when my wife looks at me with her sad face after I get a package in the mail and knowingly asks "nothing for me"? She knows just how to get to me. What's worse is I did order her something the other day (jewelry), and while I was ordering it I couldn't help but think how that could be a new graphics card for my system! I'm so ashamed of myself!

Should I start a new thread here? "WC Confessionals"


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> So been having issues with my loop, I asked my step-dad for advice since He has been working on Hydrualic systems/cylinders since 94 (owns his own Hydraulic/Machining bussiness).
> He came in while my loop was running, he notice from res >pump in> pump out to port in rad was full of fluid, but from the rad out > cpu in > cpu out to res tubing wasn't very full. He looked at me was like in my opinion your pump appear's to be fine but your cpu block doesn't seem to be flowing the water correctly. Appear's something isn't working right inside your block.
> He advice was get some distilled water, clean off my computer desk set-up little loop with my pump/ cpu block/ rad and play with it, that way it be easier to fix anything and determind if something still is wrong with my flow.
> So going to stop, and get some distill water tonight, get everything apart and go from there, going to order some more tubing when I get paid also.


Just throw another pump in there lol







.... I decided that if my pump res. are not at the highest point in the loop for me, I'm using dual pumps. If anything for the ease of filling/priming the loop lol







. With one pump in my loop.... i had all kinds of issues. Added my secont pump = problems gone


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> You know what really gets to me, when my wife looks at me with her sad face after I get a package in the mail and knowingly asks "nothing for me"? She knows just how to get to me. What's worse is I did order her something the other day (jewelry), and while I was ordering it I couldn't help but think how that could be a new graphics card for my system! I'm so ashamed of myself!
> Should I start a new thread here? "WC Confessionals"


Haha mine has a little bit of a Hello Kitty e-bay addiction so I use that as self justification to not feel as bad!







Only she gets 20-50 items for 100 bucks where as I get 0.5-1 item for that price.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Just throw another pump in there lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I decided that if my pump res. are not at the highest point in the loop for me, I'm using dual pumps. If anything for the ease of filling/priming the loop lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . With one pump in my loop.... i had all kinds of issues. Added my secont pump = problems gone


From everything I read the pump should always be pumping up and not down. Isn't it supposed to be bad to have your pump higher then other components in the loop?


----------



## NostraD

@Killswitch

I sometimes have experienced "dead spots" in a new loop where the water seems to rush by a specific area of trapped air. This is usually just outside a cooling block and sometimes on either side of my QDs. Common places where the flow is restricted. It's almost as if the pump is working too good - the flow is so fast it just rushes by the area rather than filling it. Since I don't use variable speed pumps I have to start and stop my pump repeatedly to allow the water to fill those voids. Sometimes I'm only allowing the pump to start for a brief second - just a quick pulse will do. It is a little hard to explain without seeing it first-hand, but when I saw what your step-dad had said, it made me think of it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got the kit from XSPC for the Z77..



Even a prototype EX 360 no less,black tanks and buffed sides are the order of the day for that!


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> From everything I read the pump should always be pumping up and not down. Isn't it supposed to be bad to have your pump higher then other components in the loop?


The issue would be that if you have any air in the loop and your pump just happens to be in an area where air gets trapped/pooled in the pump impeller (when turned off)... this would potentially cause cavitation and no flow. My pump(s) are below everything in my loop.... and my reservoir is lower than everything but my pumps in the loop. I have to have dual pumps to get air out of my top rads by shear flow rate lol


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> From everything I read the pump should always be pumping up and not down. Isn't it supposed to be bad to have your pump higher then other components in the loop?


It does not matter. You would have more pressure by pumping up but in like 95% of the loops out there the pump is pushing water up the loop then down through the res.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Like Ceadder said that pump is not quiet at all, even decoupled, if you are wanting to save money with just a CPU loop get the 2.0 pump. I hated my 4.0 but have read many people being happy with the 2.0 for simple loops.
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on MagiCool Deep Quiet 700 - DC12V vs EK 2.0 pump?
Click to expand...

Nope, have only used the 4.0, XSPC Black D5 bay res combo, XSPC X2O 750.


----------



## _Killswitch_

My pump is lowest thing in my setup other than my drain port. My res is about 4-5 inches higher than my pump is. S no sure why people think I have my pump higher than my res *shrugs

problem is my out take on my res is at the bottom of my res its connected to pump by a small 6 inch long piece of tubing, it will fill completely full of fluid. then from out of pump up (rad is top of my switch) to my rad will fill up completely full its tubing from rad out to cpu in and from cpu out to res fill which is at the top of my res which will only fill up about half-way.

Why my step dad believes some is wrong with my block or clogging, and im leaning towards something is clogged somewhere in my rad or its both.

and It was running fine before hand with same set-up just rad ports was on the other end of my case (back of the case instead of the front)..which also makes me believe something is clogged somewhere.


----------



## Ronsanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Can anyone recommend some good PWM fans to mount on a Swiftech MCR320-XP rad? I was going to run three AP-15 fans right from the fan headers of my Asus P8Z77-V for the sake of easy speed control, but then I did a bit of reading and found out that the "CPU" fan headers I want to use are only for PWM fans.


Try Akasa AK-FN058 Apache Black Super Silent 120mm Fan - 4 Pin PWM [AK-FN058]. They are an excellent fan. See my real world testing of these fans on a radiator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KL8Et8vk8o

The audio test for this fan starts at 25:12.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> My pump is lowest thing in my setup other than my drain port. My res is about 4-5 inches higher than my pump is. S no sure why people think I have my pump higher than my res *shrugs
> problem is my out take on my res is at the bottom of my res its connected to pump by a small 6 inch long piece of tubing, it will fill completely full of fluid. then from out of pump up (rad is top of my switch) to my rad will fill up completely full its tubing from rad out to cpu in and from cpu out to res fill which is at the top of my res which will only fill up about half-way.
> Why my step dad believes some is wrong with my block or clogging, and im leaning towards something is clogged somewhere in my rad or its both.
> and It was running fine before hand with same set-up just rad ports was on the other end of my case (back of the case instead of the front)..which also makes me believe something is clogged somewhere.


How are you bleeding air out of your loop??


----------



## CircuitFreak

If you think something is clogged check the CPU block first. They have small fine micro channels that in combination with the jet plate is the first place that will collect anything.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> XSPC rad stand..
> 
> If external is your thing....


Do want. Did you make that or is that available somewhere? I have the Phobya 3x360 stand, thinking about cutting out the top so it'll fit 480's, or extending the legs, either or.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I wish! I'm just acting as a customer service liaison for them here on OCN.


Nice.







performancepcs


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronsanut*
> 
> Try Akasa AK-FN058 Apache Black Super Silent 120mm Fan - 4 Pin PWM [AK-FN058]. They are an excellent fan. See my real world testing of these fans on a radiator.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KL8Et8vk8o
> The audio test for this fan starts at 25:12.


Ok, I'll add them to my list of possible fans.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Do want. Did you make that or is that available somewhere? I have the Phobya 3x360 stand, thinking about cutting out the top so it'll fit 480's, or extending the legs, either or.


Make your own like I did. Link in sig.


----------



## Chewy

Update from previous post, Aqua computer 680 gpu block added


----------



## Plutonium10

Here's some pictures of my Watercool GPU-X3 block. The machining on the bottom is a little irregular, which is not a deal-breaker in itself, but the nickel plating looks as if it has a few little holes in it, which worries me. The third picture is a close-up of the hole that can be seen in the bottom-right corner of the second picture. Should I probably RMA this or are my expectations just too high?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Do want. Did you make that or is that available somewhere?


XSPC are releasing it soon.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Here's some pictures of my Watercool GPU-X3 block. The machining on the bottom is a little irregular, which is not a deal-breaker in itself, but the nickel plating looks as if it has a few little holes in it, which worries me. The third picture is a close-up of the hole that can be seen in the bottom-right corner of the second picture. Should I probably RMA this or are my expectations just too high?


I know it might be far fetched, but are all the areas that the full cover WB covers on the GPU even? Meaning could you lapp the entire block on 1 surface? lol that's what I'd do. And yes, high expectations, thats why people use thermal pads on waterblocks.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Here's some pictures of my Watercool GPU-X3 block. The machining on the bottom is a little irregular, which is not a deal-breaker in itself, but the nickel plating looks as if it has a few little holes in it, which worries me. The third picture is a close-up of the hole that can be seen in the bottom-right corner of the second picture. Should I probably RMA this or are my expectations just too high?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Doesnt matter. None of those surfaces come into contact with the actual GPU.

However I would at least send those pics to watercool and see what they suggest.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I know it might be far fetched, but are all the areas that the full cover WB covers on the GPU even? Meaning could you lapp the entire block on 1 surface? lol that's what I'd do. And yes, high expectations, thats why people use thermal pads on waterblocks.


My issue isn't with the cooling performance, but rather with the quality of the surface finish.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*
> 
> If you think something is clogged check the CPU block first. They have small fine micro channels that in combination with the jet plate is the first place that will collect anything.


I believe there's something in my rad or cpu block or both. Tonight when I get home I'm going to take everything apart inspecting/clean everything. Once that is done, I'm going set-up a loop outside of my case on my desk, test it using distilled water see if I'm still having problems. If everything works as it should then I'll put it back into my case. That's plan I'm going to work with for now.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

I had told myself i wasn't gonna go water again in while and just get a nice air cooling setup. Then i looked through this thread about two weeks ago, now i have blocks for my motherboard and gpu at home waiting to be installed.









EDIT: Crappy image of the absolute amazing looking MIPS motherboard block.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> I had told myself i wasn't gonna go water again in while and just get a nice air cooling setup. Then i looked through this thread about two weeks ago, now i have blocks for my motherboard and gpu at home waiting to be installed.


Yeah, if you seriously wanna kick the crack habit, you can't keep hangin out with your old crack buddies....just saying. Oh, and a good 12 step program doesn't hurt either...







.


----------



## tiborrr12

For all you workstation/server crowd out there:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-amd-c32-g34-acetal.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Doesnt matter. None of those surfaces come into contact with the actual GPU.
> However I would at least send those pics to watercool and see what they suggest.


This


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got the kit from XSPC for the Z77..
> 
> 
> 
> Even a prototype EX 360 no less,black tanks and buffed sides are the order of the day for that!










Hmmmm we're a couple colors of the rainbow shy of having to worry about you Mate.









Hope this is for that young Man's CM watercooling build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*
> 
> If you think something is clogged check the CPU block first. They have small fine micro channels that in combination with the jet plate is the first place that will collect anything.


I second this. The only other place that would make sense to me is the radiator may have a clog in one of the passes.









~Ceadder


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> My issue isn't with the cooling performance, but rather with the quality of the surface finish.


Bottom line - if YOU are not COMPLETELY satisfied with the product, then return/exchange it.

Most manufacturers and retailers (in my personal experiences) are quite accommodating with issues like this, and ultimately they do want you to be happy with your their products. No amount of paid advertising can come close to producing the results that can/are achieved by word-of-mouth end-user referrals (from satisfied customers of course) - especially in a venue such as this. You asked for opinions...that's mine.


----------



## 218689

putting in the O-rings back in the GPU water blocks is a pain...


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Here's some pictures of my Watercool GPU-X3 block. The machining on the bottom is a little irregular, which is not a deal-breaker in itself, but the nickel plating looks as if it has a few little holes in it, which worries me. The third picture is a close-up of the hole that can be seen in the bottom-right corner of the second picture. Should I probably RMA this or are my expectations just too high?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The various solutions that people have posted before me are all viable-but imho, that hole is unacceptable

Sure it may not affect performance-but if you received your new Ferrari with a small hole in an area that didn't affect performance, wouldn't you return it? (or any goods as a matter of fact-unless the hole is advertised as being included







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Bottom line - if YOU are not COMPLETELY satisfied with the product, then return/exchange it.
> Most manufacturers and retailers (in my personal experiences) are quite accommodating with issues like this, and ultimately they do want you to be happy with your their products. No amount of paid advertising can come close to producing the results that can/are achieved by word-of-mouth end-user referrals (from satisfied customers of course) - especially in a venue such as this. You asked for opinions...that's mine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> @Plutonium10
> I just have to say, those pin holes would worry me too. I wouldn't however discount the quality of the manufacturer's products as a whole over a single product flaw/failure. Even the strictest of QC depts. misses something from time to time. It happens.


*THIS^*


----------



## NostraD

@Plutonium10
I just have to say, those pin holes would worry me too. I wouldn't however discount the quality of the manufacturer's products as a whole over a single product flaw/failure. Even the strictest of QC depts. misses something from time to time. It happens.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Yeah, if you seriously wanna kick the crack habit, you can't keep hangin out with your old crack buddies....just saying. Oh, and a good 12 step program doesn't hurt either...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I never thought it was this easy to fall back haha, oh well wc build upcoming.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoid.srg*
> 
> putting in the O-rings back in the GPU water blocks is a pain...


Go to the local hardware store and get some silicone grease. Usually, its in the plumbing section. This is a life saver when dealing with o-rings. The grease will help keep the o-ring in place.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> @Plutonium10
> I just have to say, those pin holes would worry me too. I wouldn't however discount the quality of the manufacturer's products as a whole over a single product flaw/failure. Even the strictest of QC depts. misses something from time to time. It happens.


Yes, I still view Watercool as a very high quality brand. The reason these pin holes concern me is that if similar ones exist inside the block, they could lead to corrosion of the nickel plating. I have contacted Watercool via email and depending on their response I will either RMA the block or just use it as-is. Thank you everyone for your responses.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> For all you workstation/server crowd out there:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-amd-c32-g34-acetal.html


Definitely the best looking G34 block available. Still would like to see a nice clear acrylic version though.


----------



## Rickles

saw this today, do want


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely the best looking G34 block available. Still would like to see a nice clear acrylic version though.


Maybe it's not that far either


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely the *2nd* best looking G34 block available. Still would like to see a nice clear acrylic version though.


Fixed


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmm we're a couple colors of the rainbow shy of having to worry about you Mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this is for that young Man's CM watercooling build.


Yeah,its for the Z77,they did ask me what colours i wanted,i said it didnt matter....

So i got a mixed bag!

Im only going to use the 360 for now,get 2 of the 120's stripped and keep them for when he wants to do the cards.

Black tanks and polished sides will look sweet i think.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fixed


I have two of these in my closet. Don't like them at all.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have two of these in my closet. Don't like them at all.


Wow, first person I've heard doesn't like AC







. Oh well, to each their own as they say


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmm we're a couple colors of the rainbow shy of having to worry about you Mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this is for that young Man's CM watercooling build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah,its for the Z77,they did ask me what colours i wanted,i said it didnt matter....
> 
> So i got a mixed bag!
> 
> Im only going to use the 360 for now,get 2 of the 120's stripped and keep them for when he wants to do the cards.
> 
> Black tanks and polished sides will look sweet i think.
Click to expand...

I agree. Should look very sharp.









Glad to hear this was a mixed bag of color though. Thought I was gonna have to send the Bloke intervention team to Butch you up.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I agree. Should look very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear this was a mixed bag of color though. Thought I was gonna have to send the Bloke intervention team to Butch you up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Not part of the Rainbow Warriors Ceadder,you can relax......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got the kit from XSPC for the Z77..
> 
> Even a prototype EX 360 no less,black tanks and buffed sides are the order of the day for that!


Is the housing made from Aluminum?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is the housing made from Aluminum?


Stainless sides by the look of them Werm,rest is brass/copper


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not part of the Rainbow Warriors Ceadder,you can relax......


lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> lol


In Germany.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Stainless sides by the look of them Werm,rest is brass/copper


Hmm....I remember my old RX 360s, 240s, and 480s were made of brass. Guess SS is cheaper and still somewhat resistant to corrosion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmm....I remember my old RX 360s, 240s, and 480s were made of brass. Guess SS is cheaper and still somewhat resistant to corrosion.


More likely that its better for repeated fan mounting and thread preservation... I dont think its cheaper using SS over Brass, is it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More likely that its better for repeated fan mounting and thread preservation... I dont think its cheaper using SS over Brass, is it?


I'm going out on a limb here....based on mcmasterr.com, brass is a bit more expensive than SS (looked up a few screws in the same size, thread, head type, etc.).

Isn't brass a bit more malleable too and easily dents? Could be another reason to go with SS. I've seen my fair share of dented rads


----------



## phillyd

Another thing to note is that the rad fins are so thin they are almost definitely going to dent if impacted regardless of the material. Well the difference will be minuscule. Brass is also a better conductor of heat. Correct?


----------



## kzim9

Brass is better thermal conductor, like stated above.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Another thing to note is that the rad fins are so thin they are almost definitely going to dent if impacted regardless of the material. Well the difference will be minuscule. Brass is also a better conductor of heat. Correct?


I believe so. Though, i'm a little curious that XSPC is using SS for the housing. Don't think they changed the channels. Most of the rads that I've had came with copper fins and brass channels.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Another thing to note is that the rad fins are so thin they are almost definitely going to dent if impacted regardless of the material. Well the difference will be minuscule. Brass is also a better conductor of heat. Correct?


It is but we are talking about the side panels,not the core.


----------



## kzim9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunsrunner*
> 
> Hi peeps, I am no longer water cooling my PC, leaks hurt too much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I thought I could post some pics of my water cooling loop from work, I will post some figures later. I'm trying to work out how many 120mm fans we could fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ENJOY:thumb:
> 
> around 2000mm outer diameter, the tank holds 40ton is for expansion, this is a closed loop system.
> 
> Loop pumps, draw 330amps at 440volts each. We run 2 at a time in rotation.


I work in the pipe trades and just wondering why you would not be running those pumps at a higher voltage? Is there no 600v 3ph power down under?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More likely that its better for repeated fan mounting and thread preservation... I dont think its cheaper using SS over Brass, is it?


Makes sense with regards to the repeated thread use-good idea actually if they can keep production costs down, because as you have said, SS is definitely more expensive than Brass when used in Radiators for example.


----------



## NostraD

I have a brief metallurgical history from my younger days in oil production components - stainless steel is a very broad term (generalization) used to describe a number of chromium-based steel alloys. Some of these alloys are fairly inexpensive - while others are quite costly. They also vary in other characteristics such as Rockwell hardness, temperature resistance, and degree of chemical resistances. That being said - lets get back on track and start showing more watercooling sexiness!!!!

More pics please!!!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Makes sense with regards to the repeated thread use-good idea actually if they can keep production costs down, *because as you have said, SS is definitely more expensive than Brass when used in Radiators for example*.


If you go back a few posts, B-Neg questioned this. I checked a few items and brass tends to be more expensive. I even went to a recyclers site and they pay any where from two to three times more for brass then SS. SS is more obtainable and it makes sense for XSPC to reduce costs by using a SS housing.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you go back a few posts, B-Neg questioned this. I checked a few items and brass tends to be more expensive. I even went to a recyclers site and they pay any where from two to three times more for brass then SS. SS is more obtainable and it makes sense for XSPC to reduce costs by using a SS housing.


If thats the case i stand corrected-my apologies since i misunderstood what was said, + 1 brownie point for you


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmm....I remember my old RX 360s, 240s, and 480s were made of brass. Guess SS is cheaper and still somewhat resistant to corrosion.


Bingo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More likely that its better for repeated fan mounting and thread preservation... I dont think its cheaper using SS over Brass, is it?


Yeah but just slightly. US Steel is too expensive but I doubt the Radiator company that builds these is buying US Steel.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More likely that its better for repeated fan mounting and thread preservation... I dont think its cheaper using SS over Brass, is it?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going out on a limb here....based on mcmasterr.com, brass is a bit more expensive than SS (looked up a few screws in the same size, thread, head type, etc.).
> 
> Isn't brass a bit more malleable too and easily dents? Could be another reason to go with SS. I've seen my fair share of dented rads
Click to expand...

Yes for shure Brass is more malleable. It's still denser than Copper and Aluminum though. Imagine if they stamped car panels out of the stuff. A Yugo would be as heavy as a Bradley Assault Vehicle.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Another thing to note is that the rad fins are so thin they are almost definitely going to dent if impacted regardless of the material. Well the difference will be minuscule. Brass is also a better conductor of heat. Correct?
> 
> 
> 
> It is but we are talking about the side panels,not the core.
Click to expand...

Yup yup!









...
Hopefully this long azz quote will rid us of the Hasselhoff cheese. Ugh, I saw that one time and once was enough. I can't even imagine posing for something cheesy like that even if my girl... well let's just say that it wouldn't happen and she's a proper fox. A lovely Ginger Lass that I would consider doing most anything for. That is not one of them.









~Ceadder


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I have a brief metallurgical history from my younger days in oil production components - stainless steel is a very broad term (generalization) used to describe a number of chromium-based steel alloys. Some of these alloys are fairly inexpensive - while others are quite costly. They also vary in other characteristics such as Rockwell hardness, temperature resistance, and degree of chemical resistances. That being said - lets get back on track and start showing more watercooling sexiness!!!!
> More pics please!!!!!


Is it acceptable to quote my own post? Because I don't feel like it was me writing that^.....
I feel as if I might have been channeling Ceadderman....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Is it acceptable to quote my own post? Because I don't feel like it was me writing that^.....
> I feel as if I might have been channeling Ceadderman....












Or our "inner Ceadderman". We all have a little ocd in ourselves, right?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Is it acceptable to quote my own post? Because I don't feel like it was me writing that^.....
> I feel as if I might have been channeling Ceadderman....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or our "inner Ceadderman". We all have a little ocd in ourselves, right?
Click to expand...

I feel so loved right now.









~Ceadder


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I feel so loved right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadderman


I know how you feel, just had my annual physical/prostate check ....


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I know how you feel, just had my annual physical/prostate check ....


lol!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> For all you workstation/server crowd out there:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-amd-c32-g34-acetal.html


2P Opteron build in the works right now.....so tempting


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

A couple quick questions. Going to be starting a new buid in a TJ07 with a Asrock Z77 OC Formula. Ill be reusing my two gtx680's with HK blocks, HK 3.0 cpu block, Black ice xtreme 480 on bottom and Black ice gt stealth 240 on top ( may throw another black ice xtreme 240 below depending on temps).
Now to questions:
On the board it has 3/8 barbs for the chipset cooling so I am contiplating just changing all my barbs to 3/8. With doing so and runnind 3/8x1/2 tubing, will I be loosing alot as far as flow rate is concerned. Also I am kinda torn between which pump to run in this setup, either my 655 vario with bitspower mode kit, or two 355's with the dual pump top. I would prefer the D5 but want to go with whats best.


----------



## Gunsrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intelman*
> 
> What kind of plant is this? After graduating college in May I've been working at an integration firm programming PLC/SCADA systems for DCS's. We mainly work on water/waste water plants though


It's a Nitric Acid and Ammonium Nitrate Plant.
DCS is by Yokagowa, using Centum 3000 but Centum VP will be used for the new one.
PLC has it's good and bad points.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> I work in the pipe trades and just wondering why you would not be running those pumps at a higher voltage? Is there no 600v 3ph power down under?


I put a bit of info to raise intrest, but forgot i would be tested,







OCN!
You could be right, I will check the volts when at work next.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> I work in the pipe trades and just wondering why you would not be running those pumps at a higher voltage? Is there no 600v 3ph power down under?


No. We run 200-240v single phase and 400-440v three phase.

Above that generally it is 11kv. Which I have never seen and induction motor ran from.

But to have pumps using 330amps, they are doing some serious work.

My central plant chillers I have at work, cooling the shopping Centre which I work at only draw about 650A at full load.

One chiller can cool 10k litres of water from 20+ celsius to 6 Celsius in around an hour or so. On a 40+ celsius day.









And these are only babies, camparing to others I have worked on


----------



## _Killswitch_

well I feel like compete idiot. I got home took my cpu block apart looked online with my phone. My dumb butt had the bottom piece with all the little lines in it turned the wrong way when i putt it back together after cleaning it the 1st time. Got it back together correctly now everything is working fine. God I'm a tard


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> well I feel like compete idiot. I got home took my cpu block apart looked online with my phone. My dumb butt had the bottom piece with all the little lines in it turned the wrong way when i putt it back together after cleaning it the 1st time. Got it back together correctly now everything is working fine. God I'm a tard










I think we've all had our moments though, not a huge deal. I'll be straight forward with mine. We've all seen this before right?

Well, I just flat out didn't pay attention and left that thing on there....needless to say, I was baffled as to why my temps were so high.








And that wasn't even my first time putting a loop together









EDIT: On a lighter note....Durelene came in today from Sidewinder. Decided I would try it out on some upcoming projects.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> well I feel like compete idiot. I got home took my cpu block apart looked online with my phone. My dumb butt had the bottom piece with all the little lines in it turned the wrong way when i putt it back together after cleaning it the 1st time. Got it back together correctly now everything is working fine. God I'm a tard


Glad to hear you found the problem and got everything working good.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Well glad I figured it out also, was starting to get a little annoyed. Just happy is was a mindless mistake rather than part' replacing, I don't have much money to go off buying parts right now =S

and Pc my uncle did that with his raystorm, he was like "jay why are my temps so high" I looked inside his case saw a small corner of it sticking out, told him to turn off his computer, I took block the off, and go "it prob help if you didn't have this still on"..


----------



## Hanoverfist

A little something for my New Build... "Electric Orange"

Courtesy of DetroitAC...


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> A little something for my New Build... "Electric Orange"
> Courtesy of DetroitAC...


OOOU, that's pretty dang cool!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we've all had our moments though, not a huge deal. I'll be straight forward with mine. We've all seen this before right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I just flat out didn't pay attention and left that thing on there....needless to say, I was baffled as to why my temps were so high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that wasn't even my first time putting a loop together


At Least Your Honest .. I don't know if i would have fessed up to that one or not.. We all make mistakes though..


----------



## LiquidHaus

its amazing how fast this thread moves


----------



## InsideJob

^ IKR


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> its amazing how fast this thread moves


I wake up the next day (yes, I do sleep







) and there's usually about ~5 pages, and sometimes more, that show up







. On the weekend is slower though







. I guess memers are putting in overtime M-F


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fixed


I loved the .925% silver edition version of this CPU waterblock, aren't these blocks on the restrictive side?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> A couple quick questions. Going to be starting a new buid in a TJ07 with a Asrock Z77 OC Formula. Ill be reusing my two gtx680's with HK blocks, HK 3.0 cpu block, Black ice xtreme 480 on bottom and Black ice gt stealth 240 on top ( may throw another black ice xtreme 240 below depending on temps).
> Now to questions:
> On the board it has 3/8 barbs for the chipset cooling so I am contiplating just changing all my barbs to 3/8. With doing so and runnind 3/8x1/2 tubing, will I be loosing alot as far as flow rate is concerned. Also I am kinda torn between which pump to run in this setup, either my 655 vario with bitspower mode kit, or two 355's with the dual pump top. I would prefer the D5 but want to go with whats best.


Using a TJ07 space becomes an issue with big bulky pumps, all you really need is a Laing DDC 3.2 - 3.25. Never liked the Swiftech 35X because of the heat it produces, you should not have to buy a heatsink/fan combo to have a cool running pump! If you want dual pumps the best place is in the 5.25" bays for either D5 or DDC pump.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> its amazing how fast this thread moves


This thread fills 8 e-mails every 24h, easy.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we've all had our moments though, not a huge deal. I'll be straight forward with mine. We've all seen this before right?
> 
> Well, I just flat out didn't pay attention and left that thing on there....needless to say, I was baffled as to why my temps were so high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that wasn't even my first time putting a loop together


lol ive done that before with a raystorm. I was all like, hmm, this watercooling thing aint what its cracked up to be...


----------



## Tarnix

Speaking of blocks, I know it has been asked before, but... I plan to water-cool an AM3+ socket. What are my options? (links are welcome)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we've all had our moments though, not a huge deal. I'll be straight forward with mine. We've all seen this before right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I just flat out didn't pay attention and left that thing on there....needless to say, I was baffled as to why my temps were so high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that wasn't even my first time putting a loop together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At Least Your Honest .. I don't know if i would have fessed up to that one or not.. We all make mistakes though..
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we've all had our moments though, not a huge deal. I'll be straight forward with mine. We've all seen this before right?
> 
> Well, I just flat out didn't pay attention and left that thing on there....needless to say, I was baffled as to why my temps were so high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that wasn't even my first time putting a loop together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol ive done that before with a raystorm. I was all like, hmm, this watercooling thing aint what its cracked up to be...
Click to expand...

Hafta say Good on ya for fessin up. My OCD wouldn't even let me do that but this IS my first custom loop. I'm sure I'll have many more opportunities in the future to think I did remove it an find out otherwise shortly after. Nobody is perfect and we've all done something that we'd wished we hadn't I've disconnect GPU card and forgotten to plug the power back in before. Good thing my system lets me know or I'dve fudged a couple cards by now.









This last time when I did flush and fill and dusting maintenance I forgot to plug in the Soundcard even though it's not working for whatever reason. oops









Happens.









~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Speaking of blocks, I know it has been asked before, but... I plan to water-cool an AM3+ socket. What are my options? (links are welcome)


if i were to go with an am3+ block, it'd have to be the raystorm, which is exactly why i chose that for myself.

here is a link for ya:
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-apu-waterblock-amd/

i actually plan on using the raystorm in an FM2 build as well in about a month or two.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Speaking of blocks, I know it has been asked before, but... I plan to water-cool an AM3+ socket. What are my options? (links are welcome)


Pretty much every block out there has an AMD equivalent....

AM2,AM3,AM3+,FM1.....these all use the same mounting points,what fits one will fit all...another great reason to go AMD.

As mentioned above,the XSPC Raystorm is one of the best around and looks good in the AMD mounting.



I dont think the options that the Intel block has,chrome hold downs etc,are available right now. Cant see them being far behind tho...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont think the options that the Intel block has,chrome hold downs etc,are available right now. Cant see them being far behind tho...


i've personally talked to xspc - they dont have any plans whatsoever of developing anymore amd based products. it's really lame hearing it but from a business perspective it makes sense i guess. im sure amd makes sufficient sales but they're budget build components, not enthusiast components, and watercooling is definitely an enthusiast thing to do.

already having the am3+ bracket for my raystorm, i was thinking on buying the chrome edition and just using the black bracket with it, figured it'd give it a nice two-tone look and it'd go with my build theme anyway.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> i've personally talked to xspc - they dont have any plans whatsoever of developing anymore amd based products. it's really lame hearing it but from a business perspective it makes sense i guess. im sure amd makes sufficient sales but they're budget build components, not enthusiast components, and watercooling is definitely an enthusiast thing to do.
> already having the am3+ bracket for my raystorm, i was thinking on buying the chrome edition and just using the black bracket with it, figured it'd give it a nice two-tone look and it'd go with my build theme anyway.


If Vishera proves to be the chip that pulls AMD back to the land of competition,that may change. XSPC,like most companies,wont miss a business market if its there.
They just cant develop for a market that isnt there,there is precious little margin for having blocks sit on the shelves.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Speaking of blocks, I know it has been asked before, but... I plan to water-cool an AM3+ socket. What are my options? (links are welcome)
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much every block out there has an AMD equivalent....
> 
> AM2,AM3,AM3+,FM1.....these all use the same mounting points,what fits one will fit all...another great reason to go AMD.
> 
> As mentioned above,the XSPC Raystorm is one of the best around and looks good in the AMD mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> I dont think the options that the Intel block has,chrome hold downs etc,are available right now. Cant see them being far behind tho...
Click to expand...

Sadly unless AMD pulls their head out of their collective posterior this is my last AMD build. Other than FM1 based builds I can't in good conscience recommend AMD to anyone. More and more companies will start to opt out of making components for AMD so long as they ignore Enthusiasts. With two successive failures in a row(Bulldozer and now Piledriver) they won't be getting any more of my Enthusiast dollars. It makes no sense for me to even consider an AM3+ board and I'm glad I stayed with my CIVF instead of selling it and spending more on a dead end upgrade. So while they're awesome for platform to platform mounting capability there isn't much reason to stay with AMD atm. Unless something miraculous happens between now and when I'm ready to move on, I'm done with AMD.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont think the options that the Intel block has,chrome hold downs etc,are available right now. Cant see them being far behind tho...
> 
> 
> 
> i've personally talked to xspc - they dont have any plans whatsoever of developing anymore amd based products. it's really lame hearing it but from a business perspective it makes sense i guess. im sure amd makes sufficient sales but they're budget build components, not enthusiast components, and watercooling is definitely an enthusiast thing to do.
> 
> already having the am3+ bracket for my raystorm, i was thinking on buying the chrome edition and just using the black bracket with it, figured it'd give it a nice two-tone look and it'd go with my build theme anyway.
Click to expand...

They shouldn't plan for an AMD mount any further. AM3 and AM3+ will take the same mount so it makes little sense for them to preplan a new mount when not even AMD knows what they intend to do.

I was glad they bought ATi out but I think they've spread themselves too thin taking on two major competitors in different systems markets. It shouldn't be this hard but apparently it is. Of course it doesn't help that NVidia will always make backroom deals with Developers to stay on top. We all know it's happening, but they do it under the guise of "working hand in hand with the development teams" when in reality that's probably a third of what gives them the edge. AMD is at least leveling the playing field by putting out solid drivers which is something that ATi rarely if ever did.

Now if only AMD's driver development team could rub off on their RnD team and get them half a brain to develop new technology to keep Intel on their toes we'd all be much better off. Cause otherwise AMD will only be competitive in 2 CPU markets and neither of them have a bloody thing to do with the Enthusiast market.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sadly unless AMD pulls their head out of their collective posterior this is my last AMD build. Other than FM1 based builds I can't in good conscience recommend AMD to anyone. More and more companies will start to opt out of making components for AMD so long as they ignore Enthusiasts. *With two successive failures in a row(Bulldozer and now Piledriver)* they won't be getting any more of my Enthusiast dollars. It makes no sense for me to even consider an AM3+ board and I'm glad I stayed with my CIVF instead of selling it and spending more on a dead end upgrade. So while they're awesome for platform to platform mounting capability there isn't much reason to stay with AMD atm. Unless something miraculous happens between now and when I'm ready to move on, I'm done with AMD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They shouldn't plan for an AMD mount any further. AM3 and AM3+ will take the same mount so it makes little sense for them to preplan a new mount when not even AMD knows what they intend to do.
> I was glad they bought ATi out but I think they've spread themselves too thin taking on two major competitors in different systems markets. It shouldn't be this hard but apparently it is. Of course it doesn't help that NVidia will always make backroom deals with Developers to stay on top. We all know it's happening, but they do it under the guise of "working hand in hand with the development teams" when in reality that's probably a third of what gives them the edge. AMD is at least leveling the playing field by putting out solid drivers which is something that ATi rarely if ever did.
> Now if only AMD's driver development team could rub off on their RnD team and get them half a brain to develop new technology to keep Intel on their toes we'd all be much better off. Cause otherwise AMD will only be competitive in 2 CPU markets and neither of them have a bloody thing to do with the Enthusiast market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


How is trading blows with IB i7's a fail?
For a lower price point as well?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Speaking of blocks, I know it has been asked before, but... I plan to water-cool an AM3+ socket. What are my options? (links are welcome)


My FX-8120 runs super cool @4.0 while folding 24/7. This is the block I use: http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-Technology-OCZTHYDF-HydroFlow-Waterblock/dp/B001HZSGQW


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sadly unless AMD pulls their head out of their collective posterior this is my last AMD build. Other than FM1 based builds I can't in good conscience recommend AMD to anyone. More and more companies will start to opt out of making components for AMD so long as they ignore Enthusiasts. *With two successive failures in a row(Bulldozer and now Piledriver)* they won't be getting any more of my Enthusiast dollars. It makes no sense for me to even consider an AM3+ board and I'm glad I stayed with my CIVF instead of selling it and spending more on a dead end upgrade. So while they're awesome for platform to platform mounting capability there isn't much reason to stay with AMD atm. Unless something miraculous happens between now and when I'm ready to move on, I'm done with AMD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They shouldn't plan for an AMD mount any further. AM3 and AM3+ will take the same mount so it makes little sense for them to preplan a new mount when not even AMD knows what they intend to do.
> I was glad they bought ATi out but I think they've spread themselves too thin taking on two major competitors in different systems markets. It shouldn't be this hard but apparently it is. Of course it doesn't help that NVidia will always make backroom deals with Developers to stay on top. We all know it's happening, but they do it under the guise of "working hand in hand with the development teams" when in reality that's probably a third of what gives them the edge. AMD is at least leveling the playing field by putting out solid drivers which is something that ATi rarely if ever did.
> Now if only AMD's driver development team could rub off on their RnD team and get them half a brain to develop new technology to keep Intel on their toes we'd all be much better off. Cause otherwise AMD will only be competitive in 2 CPU markets and neither of them have a bloody thing to do with the Enthusiast market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is trading blows with IB i7's a fail?
> For a lower price point as well?
Click to expand...

Check out TTLs' review of FX-8350




It's over a half hour Tom was gobsmacked but not at a loss for words... much.









It had a hard time keeping up with i5s'. AM3/AM3+ socket is dead when we are on Thubbie and only have that to look forward to.









I'm a confirmed AMD fan. It p!$$e$ me off that I'm probably gonna be going Intel for my next build. I sure don't mind running Intel but I don't like supporting them when they've made being an Enthusiast so difficult for the masses for so long. But I can't stand up for AMD when they obviously failed, not once but twice. I want to, I do. I just can't.









I do have experience with Bulldozer and Tom is not lying when he mentions their heat issues. I had to RMA FX-8120 before I could get that system out to a client. It's a good thing my clients are generally patient cause that build took 3 weeks from order to completion before it was ready to deliver. I'd never had a system take that long to build except when mine was down for sleeving.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tarnix

@ceaddar: Uuh... Piledriver is actually better than Phenom II X6 in many places, not sure why they failed there. Bulldozer was a fail imho, but Piledriver is promizing. And "heat issues"... I don't see how generating as much heat as Intel currently does is an issue. Performance at a price.

@CPU blocks: They don't look like AMD Fan mountings...  I guess I was expecting something different since the H80 comes with a classic Fan mounting.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Piledriver's heat issues are none existent. i had an 8150 overclocked to 4.95ghz daily before i got my 8350, and now that its at 5.19ghz daily, it's a clear 10 degrees cooler - same loop and everything. im even giving piledriver more voltage as well. my 8150 had that oc at 1.48v and my 8350 has the oc at 1.53v.

anyway, i just took this with my s3, still not the same as a decent camera, which i dont have








switched the leds to purple for halloween!


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ I don't know what you're talkin bout life, but that's right dead secsy bro.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> @ceaddar: Uuh... Piledriver is actually better than Phenom II X6 in many places, not sure why they failed there. Bulldozer was a fail imho, but Piledriver is promizing. And "heat issues"... I don't see how generating as much heat as Intel currently does is an issue. Performance at a price.
> 
> @CPU blocks: They don't look like AMD Fan mountings...  I guess I was expecting something different since the H80 comes with a classic Fan mounting.


You have to read his review for the bulk of the information. The video is basically a synopsis of what he went through while working with the CPU. It could be that he got a bad chip. But I don't believe that he did because I saw several times where 8350 held it's own reasonably well against 8150 and 1090T. So it's better than previous AMD sure. But like Tom, I cannot recommend putting together and entirely brand new build with that CPU. if you've already cashed in yur nickels to buy an AM3+ board and you're running a mediocre CPU then by all means make the splurge on the 8350. It's a solid upgrade over the lower end Phenom II chips that are compatible with AM3+. But I'm on AM3 and while I could probably buy that CPU it's not that much of a performance boost over my 1100T. So yeah it's a failure. I can't recommend against it enough if you're looking to build a brand new system. Dollar for dollar you're better off going with Sandy Bridge and upgrading the chip when you have the means to do so. Is it more expensive? Yeah it is. But it also out performs BD and PD. So why fight it?

As I said, when I'm ready to build a new system it'll be Intel unless AMD has decided to fix the problem. I don't hate AMD, I love AMD. I just don't like how they screwed their own consumers by telling everybody to launch their boards and it takes them 6 months to launch the chips. Especially if what Tom says is true, that they didn't really do anything with the chips between their initial launch day to their actual launch day. It really ticked off a lot of consumers with that bit of fail logic.









Anyway I'm not trying to start a flame war and you're entitled to your own opinions on FX-8*** chips but this is mine and I'm saddened by the latest reviews. I wanted Piledriver to bounce back strong for AMD.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tarnix

Well yeah, if I had 1500$ to burn i'd be building a completely new system with Intel's latest CPU. However I get 900 apples per month which means I can barely spend more than 100$ per month on non-essential stuff. And since my current motherboard is dying, It has to be AMD. (because I already own a 1055T). I'm actually happy I don't have to buy the bulldozer already, and I plan getting the FX-8350 and probably the Steamroller if it justifies the improvement. However, There's no need to convince me that Intel currently wins the market, I already know that. It wins it a bit too much, imho. I yet have to see a CPU block that has AMD mountings (All I see is pictures of Intel quad-screw! ARRrggg!!!)

P.S. I read one Piledriver review, and I'm reading a second one right now. I'd never base my opinion on a *single* review.


----------



## Fuganater

Did you even look at the one I linked? Its perfect for you since your on a tight budget.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

I wouldn't use kill coils, best combination so far is a distilated water from a thrusty vendor + 5-10% of etilenoglicol. (corrosion ihnibitor)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> I wouldn't use kill coils, best combination so far is a distilated water from a thrusty vendor + 5-10% of etilenoglicol. (corrosion ihnibitor)


Not entirely sure ethylene glycol is good for plexi/acrylic....

Kill coil is the accepted and proven biocide...especially with add in dye.


----------



## NewHighScore

that ELECTRIC ORANGE block is SEXY!


----------



## Rickles

starting to get the itch for a new block... this rasa's days are numbered...


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> My FX-8120 runs super cool @4.0 while folding 24/7. This is the block I use: http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-Technology-OCZTHYDF-HydroFlow-Waterblock/dp/B001HZSGQW
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


here is how it looks like installed . . .


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> its amazing how fast this thread moves


Ain't nobody got time for that

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udS-OcNtSWo


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> that ELECTRIC ORANGE block is SEXY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Idef1x

A lot has happened to my rig, since last. A short recap:


Changed 6950's for a GTX 680 Lightning, and I must say I am quite impressed with the results. This card does 1400 MHz core stable, which is great.
Then I changed my two DDCs for a single D5, which I am happy about, but not overly excited. If I run this pump at max speed, it's just as noisy as my DDCs, so for now I just have it at 2.
I redid the tubing, so it runs behind the motherboards. I did this because the Lightning card is ever so slightly longer than my 6950s, which ruined the way I ran my tubing across in front of the video cards.
Lastly I changed to clear Masterkleer with red coolant, instead of red tubes. I just had to try. Now we just wait and see how long before everythign clouds up.

 

 



I know the pictures aren't very good, but I only have my galaxy as a camera







IMO it doesn't do it justice, but I hope you like it anyway.


----------



## Retrolock

Bloody freaking red. Still not finished with the sleeving


----------



## 218689

when I woke up this morning...


----------



## NewHighScore

Oh NO! That's going to be my story soon!

/depressed


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Oh NO! That's going to be my story soon!
> /depressed


Why? Its hardclocking season,open a window and drop 15c off your temps.

Its the best time of year.


----------



## NewHighScore

Winter just depresses me. I hate it more and more every year. Where I live we get little sunlight in the winter.

Ah well thankfully I got the internet and a computer to get me through winter.


----------



## sebar

Just move down here to Southern California, summer all year round. No snow and very little rain.


----------



## Michalius

A few quick cell pics of progress. Had to leave things as they were as I was waiting for my Supremacy Acrylic/Nickel block to arrive, and I'm leaving for vacation for my anniversary today. Will definitely get out the DSLR when I get back.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Just move down here to Southern California, summer all year round. No snow and very little rain.


Just the Occasional Wild Fire, Earthquake, and Mud Slides.. lol







~~


----------



## 218689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why? Its hardclocking season,open a window and drop 15c off your temps.
> Its the best time of year.


did that last year, temps was awesome, but at what cost? it took me 2 hours to heat up the house afterwards, in the meantime I walked around inside the house in full snow gear. It was -38 that day I think.







never again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Winter just depresses me. I hate it more and more every year. Where I live we get little sunlight in the winter.
> Ah well thankfully I got the internet and a computer to get me through winter.


----------



## sebar

True, those can really ruin your day. But I would rather deal with those then tornados and sweltering hot summers and blistery cold winters like the ones in Oklahoma where I lived while I was in the military.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Piledriver's heat issues are none existent. i had an 8150 overclocked to 4.95ghz daily before i got my 8350, and now that its at 5.19ghz daily, it's a clear 10 degrees cooler - same loop and everything. im even giving piledriver more voltage as well. my 8150 had that oc at 1.48v and my 8350 has the oc at 1.53v.
> anyway, i just took this with my s3, still not the same as a decent camera, which i dont have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> switched the leds to purple for halloween!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoid.srg*
> 
> did that last year, temps was awesome, but at what cost? it took me 2 hours to heat up the house afterwards, in the meantime I walked around inside the house in full snow gear. It was -38 that day I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> never again.
> I don't like winter either, its dark, its cold, everything is slippery and icy. Right now its like 16 degrees indoor and I have to go get more firewood because I have a old fashioned stove >.<












Oh man too good! That made me laugh. That is why I probably won't give that a go much although I have thought about hooking up a dryer exhaust hose to the window and feeding it directly to the 140mm intake.







I hate having cold feet! I keep my place nice and warm at 22C
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> True, those can really ruin your day. But I would rather deal with those then tornados and sweltering hot summers and blistery cold winters like the ones in Oklahoma where I lived while I was in the military.


And sorry I have to LOL at your thought of Oklahoma being blistery cold. Talk to me once you have to deal with -40F/-40C


----------



## ProfeZZor X

And this, Ladies and Gentlemen, is why my loop was leaking... No thanks to me not making the tubing long enough between the mofset block and CPU block. The scratches are from some needle nose pliers I used to swist it off. Because at this point, who cares if I scratch up a damaged block, right? Fortunately, I was able to get a replacement top from PPCS. Now my loop is fully bled and ready to go (build picks to follow).


----------



## sebar

No thanks NewHighScore, I do not like cold weather. The coldest weather I have felt was -30F with windchill standing fire guard at 3:00 am. That was horrible.

To get back on topic does anyone think my temps are horribe. I am running a 3570K @3.8GHz 1.1volts and a 670GTX @ stock on a single EX240 rad. My current temps are 52, 54, 50, 52 on the CPU and 63 on the GPU. My Max temps are upper 50's on CPU and 72 on GPU? The ambient temp is 23c.


----------



## Michalius

GPU temp seems really high for having a block. How fast are your fans spinning? I know the EX rads like speedy fans.


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> No thanks NewHighScore, I do not like cold weather. The coldest weather I have felt was -30F with windchill standing fire guard at 3:00 am. That was horrible.
> To get back on topic does anyone think my temps are horribe. I am running a 3570K @3.8GHz 1.1volts and a 670GTX @ stock on a single EX240 rad. My current temps are 52, 54, 50, 52 on the CPU and 63 on the GPU. My Max temps are upper 50's on CPU and 72 on GPU? The ambient temp is 23c.


I don't think a single 240 rad can handle the heat... If it was 360...

man even if I run my A/C i only get 27 ambient temps but my GPU never reaches 50c


----------



## sebar

The fans spin at 1500 rpm. I forgot to mention that this is funning 100% on both CPU and GPU using folding @ home GPUTracker V2.

Idle temps are avg 28 CPU and 32 GPU.


----------



## Michalius

Kepler starts downclocking at 70C. Run Uniengine Heaven in loop to get an idea of load temps during games.


----------



## sebar

Di you think gaming temps would be better or worse than [email protected] temps? I have had the system running nonstop for days. The reason I ask is because friends have said not to run CPU and GPU on single 240 rad but as far as I can see they seem to be holding good temps, definatly cooler then when I was on air. While folding my GPU was always running at 80-83c.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> No thanks NewHighScore, I do not like cold weather. The coldest weather I have felt was -30F with windchill standing fire guard at 3:00 am. That was horrible.
> To get back on topic does anyone think my temps are horribe. I am running a 3570K @3.8GHz 1.1volts and a 670GTX @ stock on a single EX240 rad. My current temps are 52, 54, 50, 52 on the CPU and 63 on the GPU. My Max temps are upper 50's on CPU and 72 on GPU? The ambient temp is 23c.


I don't think those are bad, however that isn't much of an overclock on the 3570k, aren't the boost clocks 3.9 GHz?

You might be able to add a 120mm rad on your back fan.. would probably help a bit.


----------



## sebar

Rickles, my cpu boost is 3.8GHZ, I have had it up to 4.7GHZ before adding in the GPU. I have an extra EX240 rad that I was going to mount external but nobody seems to think that would be worth while.


----------



## Michalius

A second rad would most definitely improve your temps.


----------



## Rickles

Yea, if you have sitting there mount it up


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Just move down here to Southern California, summer all year round. No snow and very little rain.


I love SD; I hate the high cost of living here. If I had to relocate and get a great paying job, I wouldn't hesitate, having lived here most of my life.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just the Occasional Wild Fire, Earthquake, and Mud Slides.. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~~


-Wild Fires: season just started







I survived two recent major ones in SD back in 03' and 07'.
-Earthquakes: occasional minor temblors but I have been told and taught about the "Big One" since preschool and I have yet to see it knocking on SoCal's door (knock on wood







).
-Mudslides: You don't get too many in SD and if any, they're small. I've seen the big ones more towards the northern part of SoCal and central Cali along with NorCal. Our rain usually starts in late winter to early spring.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A PWM enabled D5...Swiftech branded.
FCPU have them coming soon


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A PWM enabled D5...Swiftech branded.
> FCPU have them coming soon


YES! Just the pump I'm looking for!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoid.srg*
> 
> when I woke up this morning...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Oh NO! That's going to be my story soon!
> /depressed
> 
> 
> 
> Why? Its hardclocking season,open a window and drop 15c off your temps.
> 
> Its the best time of year.
Click to expand...

Yup stoke the boiler and get that Chip crankin.







Can't wait for snow to hit here. I hate the cold winds here but whaterya gonna do.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> And this, Ladies and Gentlemen, is why my loop was leaking... No thanks to me not making the tubing long enough between the mofset block and CPU block. The scratches are from some needle nose pliers I used to swist it off. Because at this point, who cares if I scratch up a damaged block, right? Fortunately, I was able to get a replacement top from PPCS. Now my loop is fully bled and ready to go (build picks to follow).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










That is indeed a bad leak. Nothing a little silicon caulking couldn't have repaired to get by but I'm glad that you got a new top. I didn't realize that it was that bad ProfeZZor. That is just an ugly chip in that top.









I'm glad I didn't force matters with the tubing that was okay for solid body compressions when I changed them out for my Monsoons. Otherwise I coulda ended up in the same boat with my top. I'd have to order a new one from EK direct.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Just move down here to Southern California, summer all year round. No snow and very little rain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love SD; I hate the high cost of living here. If I had to relocate and get a great paying job, I wouldn't hesitate, having lived here most of my life.
Click to expand...

I transferred out of California cause I saw the writing on the wall. My folks and brother moved away from Cali 2 years before I did. They moved up here I transferred to Boise. 2 years later I was up here too cause there was infrastructure here. Then the Mill closed. The Aluminum plant opened and closed as much as a Pross's knickers and finally closed for good 4 years ago. They tore down the Plant across the river. At this point I think I would have been better off had I stayed in California, but it's too late to be undone and I'm glad I'm not in the land of Fruits and Nuts anymore. Although I'm hating that I cannot be there for the World Series, not once but Twice.









Viva los Gigantes!!!!









~Ceadder


----------



## JohnnyEars

I've been doing loop updates today on my Shinobi XL.. props to Michalius for showing us a Monsta 240 will fit









Removed:
XSPC RS240, RS360, Rasa block, Phobya Balancer res and poop fans

Fitted:
Alphacool UT60 360 (pull fans in roof), Monsta 240 (push/pull), Koolance CPU-370, Koolance 200mm x 80mm res (to fit my Koolance D5 pump top), Bitspower drain valve, 7x AP-15 fans, Masterkleer hose and nearly 2 litres Mayhems pastel blue..


----------



## Michalius

The way the fluid ties in to both your PSU color and the mobo is fantastic! Love the build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I've been doing loop updates today on my Shinobi XL.. props to Michalius for showing us a Monsta 240 will fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed:
> XSPC RS240, RS360, Rasa block and Phobya Balancer res and poop fans
> 
> Fitted:
> Alphacool UT60 360 (pull fans in roof), Monsta 240 (push/pull), Koolance CPU-370, Koolance 200mm x 80mm res (to fit my Koolance D5 pump top), Bitspower drain valve, 7x AP-15 fans and nearly 2 litres Mayhems pastel blue..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn, that Monsta is a THICK azz Radiator. 5.25 bays are not shallow by any means.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Damn, that Monsta is a THICK azz Radiator. 5.25 bays are not shallow by any means.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Have you seen my build!??!?!?!?!?!??!























I wouldn't mind moving away. The weather is nice but the life style is a pita-expensive. As long as I have a better opportunity both financially and for my family, i would leave Cali asap


----------



## InsideJob

@wermad

That's a bada$$ avatar


----------



## Systemlord

Does anyone know who is the CS Rep for Aqua Computer? I own an Aquaero 5 Pro and I'm having a difficult time getting reliable information regarding the new Flow Sensor MPS Flow 400 ($67.99) and the older updated Aquacomputer Flow Meter Sensor Block USB Version ($79.99).

Aqua Computer, Auquatunning and one online store has not been very helpful in the difference between the two flow sensors as there's hardly any info whatsoever regarding the newer MPS line.

My thread is here.

Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## Zamoldac

Hi guys







i'll be joining you again soon, just got a gtx480 w/ waterblock and i just can't find this block listed anywhere (pictures added - took them with the phone which sucks but maybe somebody can recognize the block, looks like it once was part of a closed solutions -something like the corsair kits)




Also any ideeas on how to plug this in my wc loop since i'll be using 1/4 fittings? (just like before)


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll be joining you again soon, just got a gtx480 w/ waterblock and i just can't find this block listed anywhere (pictures added - took them with the phone which sucks but maybe somebody can recognize the block, looks like it once was part of a closed solutions -something like the corsair kits)
> 
> Also any ideeas on how to plug this in my wc loop since i'll be using 1/4 fittings? (just like before)


YOu might need some angle compressions haha, looks good though


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll be joining you again soon, just got a gtx480 w/ waterblock and i just can't find this block listed anywhere (pictures added - took them with the phone which sucks but maybe somebody can recognize the block, looks like it once was part of a closed solutions -something like the corsair kits)
> 
> 
> Also any ideeas on how to plug this in my wc loop since i'll be using 1/4 fittings? (just like before)


Looks like the CoolIt Omini for the gtx 480



Here's an ocn review of it:

http://www.overclock.net/t/830759/coolits-omni-alc-for-gtx480-review

You may need to get some tube adapters or open her up and mod it for different tube.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That is indeed a bad leak. Nothing a little silicon caulking couldn't have repaired to get by but I'm glad that you got a new top. I didn't realize that it was that bad ProfeZZor. That is just an ugly chip in that top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad I didn't force matters with the tubing that was okay for solid body compressions when I changed them out for my Monsoons. Otherwise I coulda ended up in the same boat with my top. I'd have to order a new one from EK direct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The Monsoon fittings were either easy or difficult to screw in to my blocks. So when I screwed it in to the CPU block, I just thought it was being difficult. I didn't have any leaks when I cut the power on, so I figured everything was okay. Then, when I disconnected everything and unplugged the fittings on the block, a big chunk of acrylic unscrewed right along with the barb. I probably could have crazy glued it back on, but I unknowingly tossed the chip, and is now in the deepest depths of my vaccum cleaner bag.

I gave the folks at PPCs a bit of a hard time trying to get another Supreme block, but little did I know they sold the tops seperately. That was just last week. Over this past weekend, I installed the new block and put everything back together once Frys told me there was nothing wrong with the board, chip and memory. So all that was left was to swap out that bad power cord on my video card.

I spent the greater part of two hours flushing out all the bubbles in my loop. The hardest part was getting them out of the CPU block, because there was a pocket of air that just wouldn't exit. And each time I tilted the case with a 70% full res, air would somehow get recycled back in the loop by the pump and seep back in to the CPU. So, I was back to square one. I eventually filled the res to 100% and did a very slow 90 degree tilt on the case and that cleared all the bubbles out... I'm still a water cooling rookie, so I'm learning.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> @wermad
> That's a bada$$ avatar


Thanks









I'm rekindling my love for NMRGW on youtube


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like the CoolIt Omini for the gtx 480
> 
> Here's an ocn review of it:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/830759/coolits-omni-alc-for-gtx480-review
> You may need to get some tube adapters or open her up and mod it for different tube.


Wow, that was fast.
Thanks a lot guys!


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Did you even look at the one I linked? Its perfect for you since your on a tight budget.


I saw it and thank you







I'm just wondering how it fits on an AMD socket. perhaps I just need to tear the board apart to understand O.O
I suppose I have to unscrew the fan mounts, right?


----------



## Fuganater

It comes with an AMD and Intel mounting plate. The picture is it with the Intel mounting plate on.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> It comes with an AMD and Intel mounting plate. The picture is it with the Intel mounting plate on.


Ah okay, thanks ^^'


----------



## Yukss

here are the pics.. the cable managenment in this case is HELL so nevermind


----------



## Tarnix

^epic.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Here's a so-so picture of my rig. I'm my own worst critic, so bear with me. As you can see, the EVGA logo is solid now, so that's a relief. At some point next year I plan on upgrading the case to a CaseLabs, for better water cooling capacity and possibly doing a SLI configuration. Plus I'd like to get a lot more creative with the design of the hardware, and maybe go with a theme.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> Wow, that was fast.
> Thanks a lot *guy*!


You're welcome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> here are the pics.. the cable managenment in this case is HELL so nevermind
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


Awesome work mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Here's a so-so picture of my rig. I'm my own worst critic, so bear with me. As you can see, the EVGA logo is solid now, so that's a relief. At some point next year I plan on upgrading the case to a CaseLabs, for better water cooling capacity and possibly doing a SLI configuration. Plus I'd like to get a lot more creative with the design of the hardware, and maybe go with a theme.


Hit me up next year as I'm gonna move on to something with more vram


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> My FX-8120 runs super cool @4.0 while folding 24/7. This is the block I use: http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-Technology-OCZTHYDF-HydroFlow-Waterblock/dp/B001HZSGQW


^This is the one my son and I are using on our AMD systems - keeps my FX-4100 super cool (reading 10c atm which I doubt is correct, but never gets over 45c gaming - 51c P95.
My son has a Phenom II x 6 1055 and it idles at 20-21c and 50c loaded.



For $20 on Amazon you can't beat it...and if you don't like it...well it was just $20


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> here are the pics.. the cable managenment in this case is HELL so nevermind
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those speakers wont benefit from that soundcard


----------



## teamrushpntball

So just switched from Deepcool z5 tim to Phobya HeGrease and let me tell you I am impressed. Dropped my temps ~6c across all 4 cores and brought them in tighter together (core 3 is always lower, but now it's only by 4c). Before the Z5 I had had Shin Etsu 751 and MX2 and they had given me similar results. Now, I can't say this is a straight apples to apples comparison because I made a few other "minor" changes while I was at it.

By minor I mean:
Moved out of my 600T to a Silverstone TJ07
Installed my first GPU block (EK 7970 Fullcover Copper/Plexi CSQ with backplate)
Threw out my cloudy Primoflex and replaced it with Masterkleer
Added a heatsink for my MCP35x (Now makes an odd hum at full load under pwm, not real sure what that's about)
Replaced the 35x pump reservoir with an EK 250 Advanced
Added a shroud to the push side of my GT360 Black Ice Stealth
Added 2 more Gentle Typhoon AP15's to the pull side (Third wouldn't fit, or at least fit and have room to exhaust, with the psu)
And finally filled it all up with Mayhem's Aurora Namron Yellow

Please pardon both the horrible cell phone pictures and the lackluster cable management. Wife is ordering my sleeve from MDPC as my Christmas gift in addition to tickets to see Trans-Siberian Orchestra (I love their show, go every year we've been together). So in 2 months or I'll try sleeving for the first time and make everything look a bit nicer. Also plan to have all that ugly non painted aluminum inside powder coated at some point.

So onto a few teaser pictures:

Before:





And after:







Enjoy!

On a serious note, the switch to Phobya HeGrease was a good one. Deepcool Z5, MX2, and Shin Etsu 751 all had performed similarly for me, and even after lapping my water block still exhibited a 5-7C spread with core 3 being so much lower. The HeGrease dropped that to 3C, and after adding more restriction and heat to my loop while only adding a shroud to my 3 push fans and then adding 2 pull fans my CPU still dropped in temperature under load.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> lol ive done that before with a raystorm. I was all like, hmm, this watercooling thing aint what its cracked up to be...


Damn you for triggering my OCD now like crazy. I'm 99.9999999% positive that I took off the sticker on my Raystorm... but of course now that .00000001% is bugging the crap out of me... but if I take off the block - then that will cause me to have to clean everything all over again and waste my expensive (well relatively) TIM application in the process. Sigh. However, I'll probably do it just like I have to go recheck the front door even though I've never left it unlocked yet.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Damn you for triggering my OCD now like crazy. I'm 99.9999999% positive that I took off the sticker on my Raystorm... but of course now that .00000001% is bugging the crap out of me... but if I take off the block - then that will cause me to have to clean everything all over again and waste my expensive (well relatively) TIM application in the process. Sigh. However, I'll probably do it just like I have to go recheck the front door even though I've never left it unlocked yet.


bahahaha. man i was also 99% positive i took it off too. The raystorm comes in a cling-wrap-like cover that can be mistaken for the sticker. Let me assure u, there is another stick on the cpu contact surface. its an easy check, i took my clock without drain, just took it off, checked, peel the sticker off, re aplied TIM, and done







not too hard for peice of mind i reckon.


----------



## d3vour3r

soz for the grammer, a lil tipsy


----------



## Wenis

Here is a pic of my loops. My rig is just a couple days from being finished. Well I guess they are never finished, but I do plan to turn it on shortly! My build log is in my sig.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Those speakers wont benefit from that soundcard


hi, explain me why, im a noob in that area


----------



## _REAPER_

Thanks to Joe at FrozenCPU for the mail today.. always good to get something nice in the APO.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Oh my that is beautiful _Reaper_


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Oh my that is beautiful _Reaper_


^This


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Thanks to Joe at FrozenCPU for the mail today.. always good to get something nice in the APO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, now that's a sexy rad


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Thanks to Joe at FrozenCPU for the mail today.. always good to get something nice in the APO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, more pics please.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Willhemmens

The picture of the XSPC top is abit grainy Bundy, you should use a lower ISO.


----------



## Rognin

Hey Bundy, those are the new (((NB))) fans aren't they?

Have you tried them out? How are they?

Here's what I consider the final chapter for my rig! (it's in this month MOTM)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## NewHighScore

Yep those are the new NB fans. I am sure he has tried them out, he is a reviewer afterall.

P.S. Your rig is sexy! I love what you did with the tubing and your SLi bridge is great! Is that Dwood masterpiecE?


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Yep those are the new NB fans. I am sure he has tried them out, he is a reviewer afterall.
> P.S. Your rig is sexy! I love what you did with the tubing and your SLi bridge is great! Is that Dwood masterpiecE?


Yeah it is. I love it, it completes the rig.


----------



## mayford5

Hey all, I started a while back posting in here when I bought a corsair closed loop. I was not well received at that time so I left for a bit. Now however I have a custom loop that I am quite proud of. It is simple and very few modifications were made to the case as it accommodated my parts very well. I thought I would show you all my rig and setup and see if anyone has any suggestions that could make it better and also to join the water cooling club now that I have a true liquid cooling setup.

I will soon have a 7950 with full coverage waterblock to add so that is in the works. Current load temps for the CPU are in the high 40s to low 50s(that is 100% load all cores Prime95 or [email protected]) I have the fans for pull on the radiator so I have a little extra room at the top for cleaning out the radiator from dust.(As you can see the radiator gets a bit dirty. The front fan filter isn't the greatest on the 650D but it's okay)





Thanks
Andrew


----------



## Rickles

looks pretty good, what do you have holding your micro res up?


----------



## Ednilson Luna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Hey all, I started a while back posting in here when I bought a corsair closed loop. I was not well received at that time so I left for a bit. Now however I have a custom loop that I am quite proud of. It is simple and very few modifications were made to the case as it accommodated my parts very well. I thought I would show you all my rig and setup and see if anyone has any suggestions that could make it better and also to join the water cooling club now that I have a true liquid cooling setup.
> I will soon have a 7950 with full coverage waterblock to add so that is in the works. Current load temps for the CPU are in the high 40s to low 50s(that is 100% load all cores Prime95 or [email protected]) I have the fans for pull on the radiator so I have a little extra room at the top for cleaning out the radiator from dust.(As you can see the radiator gets a bit dirty. The front fan filter isn't the greatest on the 650D but it's okay)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Andrew


Hello mayford5 ford a tip with a connector that is cleaner loop reservoir to pump



check out my:


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ednilson Luna*
> 
> Hello mayford5 ford a tip with a connector that is cleaner loop reservoir to pump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check out my:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good tip







Please use spoiler tags when quoting more than one photo


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wenis*
> 
> Here is a pic of my loops. My rig is just a couple days from being finished. Well I guess they are never finished, but I do plan to turn it on shortly! My build log is in my sig.


Wow, that's uber nice







. I like your build log title









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Here's what I consider the final chapter for my rig! (it's in this month MOTM)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










, count on my pledge buddy


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ednilson Luna*
> 
> Hello mayford5 ford a tip with a connector that is cleaner loop reservoir to pump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check out my:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good tip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please use spoiler tags when quoting more than one photo
Click to expand...

Yeah I have a solid 1/4 1/4 thread connector holding mine together. But I have that same rotary fitting holding My T block to my Pump Top. I plan to get a Rotary Q installed to make it all cleaner looking though. Too bad BP doesn't have a Tri Q straight with a 90* so that it flows out one side of the T through to the other side with a flow ability out the bottom of the T.

But yeah I know I'm guilty of it a time or two but I second Mike's sentiment. I'll try if you try.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rognin

Thanks Wermad!


----------



## corysti

I finally ordered that remaining of my monsoon fittings and rotary's to finish my build. Super excited and hopefully next weekend she will be running...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Thanks Wermad!


when do the noms start????


----------



## _REAPER_

Here is a pic of my new RAD


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Here is a pic of my new RAD


Smexy


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> when do the noms start????


Today is the last day for noms, voting starts tomorrow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Here is a pic of my new RAD
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those rads look sweet!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Here is a pic of my new RAD
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks awesome _REAPER_ wish I could afford a 420 for the inside of my 932. I'll have to cobble something together to put a 420 in the 932 but that would look awesome in my case.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

Just asled Noiseblocker about a 140mm eLoop fan and got this:
Quote:


> Hello Mr. Kristensen,
> 
> yes of course we are planing to develop a 140mm and 180mm eLoop. I can`t defenitives date.
> 
> More information you can find at facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Noiseblocker/105076862915678?ref=ts&fref=ts
> 
> Beste Grüße / best regards
> 
> Sebastian Döhring


Also a 180mm


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Here is a pic of my new RAD


Those are really nice but I just can't justify 250 bucks for them


----------



## Rickles

Ok, thermal brains,

I put in a water temp sensor last week. My idle water temps are around 28-30c, web browsing and whatnot. When I get to a gaming my water gets to around 37c, although I don't watch it that closely while gaming. However, my gpu is around 40-42c and my cpu is usually closer to 50c.

So.....

Should I put my d5 vario on setting 4 instead of 5?? Would this help lower component temps as the water would have more time in the blocks to transfer heat?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Ok, thermal brains,
> I put in a water temp sensor last week. My idle water temps are around 28-30c, web browsing and whatnot. When I get to a gaming my water gets to around 37c, although I don't watch it that closely while gaming. However, my gpu is around 40-42c and my cpu is usually closer to 50c.
> So.....
> Should I put my d5 vario on setting 4 instead of 5?? Would this help lower component temps as the water would have more time in the blocks to transfer heat?


Those are pretty good temps. I don't see anything out of the ordinary so I guess changing your pump speed may not have a significant difference.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Here is a pic of my new RAD


I had 3 480 AMS rads...had to go back,they wouldnt plumb in properly in my LD....
Nice but very restrictive.


----------



## Fonne

*EKWB introduces new line of fitting connectors*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/280/19/EKWB-introduces-new-line-of-fitting-connectors/
Quote:


> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium performance PC water cooling gear manufacturer, is proud to announce release of revised line of fittings and fitting adaptors. Goes hand in hand with latest industrial design CSQ line.
> 
> All newly released items will be available in four different flavours: black painted, nickel- & black nickel plated as well as copper plated. All items feature hand polished finish.
> 
> First batch of fittings should be available for purchase through EK Webshop within 4 weeks, followed by various splitters and line connectors. Please note the rendered image below serves for illustrative purposes only.




Could be my next fittings


----------



## teamrushpntball

Those fittings in copper plating would be sweet. Rather like that design overall anyway.


----------



## hammerforged

Those are quite nice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB introduces new line of fitting connectors*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/280/19/EKWB-introduces-new-line-of-fitting-connectors/
> 
> Could be my next fittings


Is that acetal? hard to figure since the pic is in black and white. Acetal fitting compression fitting top....







....reminds me of the primochill acrylic fittings.

Can anyone elaborate???


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that acetal? hard to figure since the pic is in black and white. Acetal fitting compression fitting top....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....reminds me of the primochill acrylic fittings.
> Can anyone elaborate???


Looks like renders to me......


----------



## sebar

EK Website states the following:
"All newly released items will be available in four different flavours: black painted, nickel- & black nickel plated as well as copper plated. All items feature hand polished finish."

Therefore I would guess that they are not acetal.


----------



## Fonne

The picture is a render:
Quote:


> *Please note the rendered image below serves for illustrative purposes only*.


Dont believe they use acetal - Its the plated black ...


----------



## teamrushpntball

Fonne even says the image is rendered in hid quote.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Taking bets on how long it takes for the plating hate train to roll out.......

In other news,EK release a fitting resembling Monsoon fittings......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> EK Website states the following:
> "All newly released items will be available in four different flavours: black painted, nickel- & black nickel plated as well as copper plated. All items feature hand polished finish."
> Therefore I would guess that they are not acetal.


Kewl









I like the EK symbol on the 45°.

Looks like that is small od tube size and hence why the fitting looks very streamlined with the angled fitting bodies. Will expect disproportionate looks with the larger fittings (but that's true for mostly all







).

@ B-Neg, tnx, seemed like it was


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB introduces new line of fitting connectors*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/280/19/EKWB-introduces-new-line-of-fitting-connectors/
> 
> Could be my next fittings


I'm extremely impressed with these fittings, the two tone silver-black finish goes with both a fully nickel plated CPU block and one that is acetal. I had to buy Bitspower matte black fittings in order to go with my Supremacy acetal block, these would look great with either.


----------



## NewHighScore

Those look great! If those were out before the monsoon angles I just might have considered.

Not that I am on the EK hate plate train I am just weary of purchasing their products. I have yet to own anything EK.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB introduces new line of fitting connectors*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/280/19/EKWB-introduces-new-line-of-fitting-connectors/
> 
> Could be my next fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that acetal? hard to figure since the pic is in black and white. Acetal fitting compression fitting top....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....reminds me of the primochill acrylic fittings.
> 
> Can anyone elaborate???
Click to expand...

I rather like the look of that front fitting. I could see running that with my Dual DDC v2 Pump top. It sure would clean up some space in my case instead of what I'm running atm.









My Sparkle Red Monsoons would look bishin on that.









Are they gonna put out Compless Angle Fittings for systems with pre-existing barb owners? Cause I would definitely entertain holding off my Angle fitting order to wait for those in Black Nickel.

Still waiting for Tiborrr to confirm whether or not they'll be doing non CSQ Universal Bridge series too. I've got Reference Cards so I've got stock RAM/VRAM possibilities with the use of a Dremel but I gotta know what I'm in for.









~Ceadder


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> looks pretty good, what do you have holding your micro res up?


I have the screws down from the top, through the two fans holding the res in. I also have rubber grommets for some vibration cancellation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ednilson Luna*
> 
> Hello mayford5 ford a tip with a connector that is cleaner loop reservoir to pump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check out my:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you. I didn't know they made something like that. Can you get one from frozencpu?
I really like how it makes things look really tidy.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Ok, thermal brains,
> I put in a water temp sensor last week. My idle water temps are around 28-30c, web browsing and whatnot. When I get to a gaming my water gets to around 37c, although I don't watch it that closely while gaming. However, my gpu is around 40-42c and my cpu is usually closer to 50c.
> So.....
> Should I put my d5 vario on setting 4 instead of 5?? Would this help lower component temps as the water would have more time in the blocks to transfer heat?


i have a d5 vario also and my loop
consists of 140 rad, 360 black ice rad,
cpu, gpu, res, pump then back to 140..
i keep mine on 3..sometimes 2.5 and it
works great..once i pump up the pump to
5 i notice an increase by 1 or 2 degrees C.
as well as if i go below 2 i notice an increase
in temps.. gotta find that happy medium.
your temps sort of sound normal though.
what's your ambient temp in the room?
what's your cpu OC profile?
check for dust in your rad..clean rad.
run Prime..
i would try these before putting pump higher..
just my thought though..i've only being doing this
for little over half a year now so i'm noone's guru lol..


----------



## Ceadderman

You can get them from Frozen or PPCs, mayford. Enzotech Rotary Connector.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Mostly all of the big players make a revolvable male thread to male thread fitting. Don't get the fix one though


----------



## spiderloser

Hey just showing you guys my new stuff here is the kit

Pump : Phobya DC12-260 12Volt

Rad : Hardware Labs Black Ice® GT Xtreme Lite 360mm

Cpu block : D-Tek FuZion CPU Waterblock for Socket 775

Rad fans : Coolermaster R4 X 3 (2000 Rpm)

Fittings : EK Water Blocks EK-PSC Fitting 12mm - G1/4 (ID 7/16", OD 5/8") (Compression Fittings)

Tube : 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer PVC Tubing Clear/UV Blue

Coolent : Mayhems Pre-Mix X1 UV Red

Res : Alphacool Repack-Cooling Slot-In Delrin White Reservoir

you will have forgive my rubbish cam

probly not the best but dont think ive done to badly for my first time watercooling


front


side off with uv lights on and off

side on with everything on

Rad fans

idol temps and load temps after prime 95 has been running for apx 30 mins


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Ok, thermal brains,
> I put in a water temp sensor last week. My idle water temps are around 28-30c, web browsing and whatnot. When I get to a gaming my water gets to around 37c, although I don't watch it that closely while gaming. However, my gpu is around 40-42c and my cpu is usually closer to 50c.
> So.....
> Should I put my d5 vario on setting 4 instead of 5?? Would this help lower component temps as the water would have more time in the blocks to transfer heat?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those are pretty good temps. I don't see anything out of the ordinary so I guess changing your pump speed may not have a significant difference.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> i have a d5 vario also and my loop
> consists of 140 rad, 360 black ice rad,
> cpu, gpu, res, pump then back to 140..
> i keep mine on 3..sometimes 2.5 and it
> works great..once i pump up the pump to
> 5 i notice an increase by 1 or 2 degrees C.
> as well as if i go below 2 i notice an increase
> in temps.. gotta find that happy medium.
> your temps sort of sound normal though.
> what's your ambient temp in the room?
> what's your cpu OC profile?
> check for dust in your rad..clean rad.
> run Prime..
> i would try these before putting pump higher..
> just my thought though..i've only being doing this
> for little over half a year now so i'm noone's guru lol..


Like Wermad and LuckyNumber13 say your temps seem pretty good.

If you slow down the flow of water, yes it will absorb more heat from the block's, but that heat will also have more time to escape in radiator, also the same the other way, if the water moves to quick it picks up less heat from the block's and also has less time to reject it from the radiator.

With good temps like that, if you are wanting to reduce your components temp, my suggestion would be to increase your air flow over your rad. or lower the temp. of the air going over the rad.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB introduces new line of fitting connectors*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/280/19/EKWB-introduces-new-line-of-fitting-connectors/
> 
> Could be my next fittings


seriously I can be a big fan of those, so darn sexy.... bad... for... my... pocket...


----------



## Hamy144

Added my 7950 to the loop as well as switching XSPC blue tubing to Masterkleer clear with Mayhem deep blue and love it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Added my 7950 to the loop as well as switching XSPC blue tubing to Masterkleer clear with Mayhem deep blue and love it


Let the Plasticizing tube thread know how it fairs







. I'm thinking of switching my Primochill for a clear tube that holds.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Like Wermad and LuckyNumber13 say your temps seem pretty good.
> If you slow down the flow of water, yes it will absorb more heat from the block's, but that heat will also have more time to escape in radiator, also the same the other way, if the water moves to quick it picks up less heat from the block's and also has less time to reject it from the radiator.


That isn't actually how it works. More flow is theoreteically better. Slowing down water flow should never improve temps.


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderloser*
> 
> Hey just showing you guys my new stuff here is the kit
> Rad fans
> 
> idol temps and load temps after prime 95 has been running for apx 30 mins


PWOAH! Nice temps on the CPU mate, might need to add that GPU to the loop sometime then you will truly be amazed.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *images*


Thanks for this images bundy, now i know about a European shop that has Bitspower fittings, in different colors.


----------



## spiderloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> PWOAH! Nice temps on the CPU mate, might need to add that GPU to the loop sometime then you will truly be amazed.


hmm yes your probly correct im happy the way it is at the moment but one day maybe i will also watercool my gpu


----------



## Hanoverfist

I am a little late to the Conversation with these new Fits.. has there been any Price talk yet or these still in Development ??


----------



## sebar

According to the website they should be available for sale within 4 weeks.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> According to the website they should be available for sale within 4 weeks.


Ah.. Thank You Sir


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I am a little late to the Conversation with these new Fits.. has there been any Price talk yet or these still in Development ??


Just looking at it and with the name EK on be prepared to pay $5 more.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks awesome _REAPER_ wish I could afford a 420 for the inside of my 932. I'll have to cobble something together to put a 420 in the 932 but that would look awesome in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It is just a 360 RAD looks much bigger though


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks awesome _REAPER_ wish I could afford a 420 for the inside of my 932. I'll have to cobble something together to put a 420 in the 932 but that would look awesome in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is just a 360 RAD looks much bigger though
Click to expand...

Yeah I did some measuring it looks like I won't be able to do a 420 unless it's EK or cut out the 5.25 bay altogether. 5.25 plate edge to edge is 151mm Most of the Rads that I looked at are 5mm wider than the bay chassis.

I understood that was a 360. I was just pointing out that I'd like something like that in a 420 if I were to get something that spendy and make it work.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB introduces new line of fitting connectors*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/280/19/EKWB-introduces-new-line-of-fitting-connectors/
> 
> Could be my next fittings


So beautiful *-*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im starting to build a watercooling test rig for parts,staked out on a board for quick change outs.
My idea is to use a hot plate with a dial-able heat input for simulating CPU heat output. Once set up,it wont be changed in any way for consistent results.
This way also allows for multiple mounts of blocks easily and rapid swaps of rads,pumps.
Now,because you have calibrated sensors in the hotplate giving you accurate plate temp rather than a CPU socket sensor which is a ballpark figure,you can work out the delta with some accuracy.
As a bonus,because you can dial in the heat input,you also can tell if a block has a sweet spot in regards to heat input.
I will be recording the wattage required to hit a certain temp to test the effectiveness of blocks and water temp as the measure of rad performance at various heat loads and fan speeds
Obviously there will be flow sensors and the usual temp sensors in the loop itself to round out the monitoring....probably hooked up to a static aquaero.

This is a serious project,not to Martins level of detail,but enough to take up the slack and give everyone some detailed real world purchasing advice.

The reason im leaving the CPU and board out of the equation is simple,every chip is different and distributes heat differently,whats good for SB is no good for IB...or good for AMD x4 but no good for a FX6 series. I want to create a controlled environment for those differences to be ignored and concentrate on empirical evidence.

Comments welcome.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im starting to build a watercooling test rig for parts,staked out on a board for quick change outs.
> My idea is to use a hot plate with a dial-able heat input for simulating CPU heat output. Once set up,it wont be changed in any way for consistent results.
> This way also allows for multiple mounts of blocks easily and rapid swaps of rads,pumps.
> Now,because you have calibrated sensors in the hotplate giving you accurate plate temp rather than a CPU socket sensor which is a ballpark figure,you can work out the delta with some accuracy.
> As a bonus,because you can dial in the heat input,you also can tell if a block has a sweet spot in regards to heat input.
> I will be recording the wattage required to hit a certain temp to test the effectiveness of blocks and water temp as the measure of rad performance at various heat loads and fan speeds
> Obviously there will be flow sensors and the usual temp sensors in the loop itself to round out the monitoring....probably hooked up to a static aquaero.
> 
> This is a serious project,not to Martins level of detail,but enough to take up the slack and give everyone some detailed real world purchasing advice.
> 
> The reason im leaving the CPU and board out of the equation is simple,every chip is different and distributes heat differently,whats good for SB is no good for IB...or good for AMD x4 but no good for a FX6 series. I want to create a controlled environment for those differences to be ignored and concentrate on empirical evidence.
> 
> Comments welcome.


Just how big is this hot plate B? Cause while I like the idea, I'm not quite sure the process is sound because the exterior of the block(depending on the cooling surface of the internal flow chamber) may actually hinder real world results. If you have a heating surface that is the size of a CPU that would make much more sense. Do you have some specs that you can provide of what you're looking to do. I like it, don't get me wrong but that's the biggest hurdle to the turtle race that I see.









Best of luck tho Mate.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just how big is this hot plate B? Cause while I like the idea, I'm not quite sure the process is sound because the exterior of the block(depending on the cooling surface of the internal flow chamber) may actually hinder real world results. If you have a heating surface that is the size of a CPU that would make much more sense. Do you have some specs that you can provide of what you're looking to do. I like it, don't get me wrong but that's the biggest hurdle to the turtle race that I see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck tho Mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think a copper sandwich plate the size of the IHS to lift the block off the plate and a laser thermometer or a diode getting a reading directly from the sandwich plate would cure that.
Maybe even machine the hot plate itself with a IHS size raised section?

I have 300w plate in mind,just a loop over and a threaded bar pushing the block on to it


----------



## teamrushpntball

Very appreciative of you picking up the mantle for this whole community B Negative.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Very appreciative of you picking up the mantle for this whole community B Negative.


Martin has been the go-to guy for this for the longest time but now he is going,we need to try and pick up where he left off....new parts are getting released monthly and how many reviews to you trust?


----------



## Fuganater

I think it would fun to review WC parts but the testing equipment is pretty expensive.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im starting to build a watercooling test rig for parts,staked out on a board for quick change outs.
> My idea is to use a hot plate with a dial-able heat input for simulating CPU heat output. Once set up,it wont be changed in any way for consistent results.
> This way also allows for multiple mounts of blocks easily and rapid swaps of rads,pumps.
> Now,because you have calibrated sensors in the hotplate giving you accurate plate temp rather than a CPU socket sensor which is a ballpark figure,you can work out the delta with some accuracy.
> As a bonus,because you can dial in the heat input,you also can tell if a block has a sweet spot in regards to heat input.
> I will be recording the wattage required to hit a certain temp to test the effectiveness of blocks and water temp as the measure of rad performance at various heat loads and fan speeds
> Obviously there will be flow sensors and the usual temp sensors in the loop itself to round out the monitoring....probably hooked up to a static aquaero.
> This is a serious project,not to Martins level of detail,but enough to take up the slack and give everyone some detailed real world purchasing advice.
> The reason im leaving the CPU and board out of the equation is simple,every chip is different and distributes heat differently,whats good for SB is no good for IB...or good for AMD x4 but no good for a FX6 series. I want to create a controlled environment for those differences to be ignored and concentrate on empirical evidence.
> Comments welcome.


BADASS.







I'm 200% supporting that idea!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I think it would fun to review WC parts but the testing equipment is pretty expensive.


Time to see some trader ratings go up!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Just how big is this hot plate B? Cause while I like the idea, I'm not quite sure the process is sound because the exterior of the block(depending on the cooling surface of the internal flow chamber) may actually hinder real world results. If you have a heating surface that is the size of a CPU that would make much more sense*. Do you have some specs that you can provide of what you're looking to do. I like it, don't get me wrong but that's the biggest hurdle to the turtle race that I see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck tho Mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Exactly,

To get any kind of reasonably useful result numbers, you'll have to have a heat source that puts all the heat into a block the same size as the CPU of interest with minimal possibility of dispersing its heat to anywhere but the block.

And even then, you'd need to do some testing of known quantity of water and how much the temp went up in a time frame to determine the actual wattage transferred, as opposed to the wattage consumed by the heating element.

If you want real world results, there's no substitute for real world components when so may variables are involved with so many so difficult to account for.

Darlene


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Thanks for this images bundy, now i know about a European shop that has Bitspower fittings, in different colors.


Try to ask http://www.highflow.nl/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Exactly,
> To get any kind of reasonably useful result numbers, you'll have to have a heat source that puts all the heat into a block the same size as the CPU of interest with minimal possibility of dispersing its heat to anywhere but the block.
> And even then, you'd need to do some testing of known quantity of water and how much the temp went up in a time frame to determine the actual wattage transferred, as opposed to the wattage consumed by the heating element.
> If you want real world results, there's no substitute for real world components when so may variables are involved with so many so difficult to account for.
> Darlene


You have the problem of choosing a platform and only producing results for that platform which is less than ideal
This method has the advantage eliminating all that...however,determining how many watts was put into the block and how much was radiated away is the stumbling block.
Doing tests for all platforms is unworkable,especially as you will have to run at least 3 test cycles with remounts.
Unless i just go midrange board and chip,then do stock and OC runs...

The loop wont be broken down so its a known quantity,fluid quantity will only change marginally.....

As i said,this is purely hypothetical right now,but it is coming...its just the methodology i want to work the kinks out of.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Exactly,
> To get any kind of reasonably useful result numbers, you'll have to have a heat source that puts all the heat into a block the same size as the CPU of interest with minimal possibility of dispersing its heat to anywhere but the block.
> And even then, you'd need to do some testing of known quantity of water and how much the temp went up in a time frame to determine the actual wattage transferred, as opposed to the wattage consumed by the heating element.
> If you want real world results, there's no substitute for real world components when so may variables are involved with so many so difficult to account for.
> Darlene


I agree. The problem w/ a hotplate is that the heat is spread out through the entire plate. Not just a 1-2 square cm section like it is w/ CPUs. I'd question any results that were not done on an an actual motherboard, w/ normal mounting hardware, w/ an actual CPU. Hot plates were used back in the day to test CPU blocks but results that differed from real world testing generally made most reviewers switch to more conventional methods.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I agree. The problem w/ a hotplate is that the heat is spread out through the entire plate. Not just a 1-2 square cm section like it is w/ CPUs. I'd question any results that were not done on an an actual motherboard, w/ normal mounting hardware, w/ an actual CPU. Hot plates were used back in the day to test CPU blocks but results that differed from real world testing generally made most reviewers switch to more conventional methods.


That is what im trying to avoid,questionable results are not results at all.....
Then it would have to be one board with one of all classes of chip..or maybe just the upper tier chips as they are the most likely to be LC'd.


----------



## JoanchimMartin

New Swiftech MCP655-PWM 12v Water Pump Module. Price: $109.99.
Quote:


> In response to the overwhelming demand and popularity of the MCP655 Series FrozenCPU.com has worked with Swiftech to bring you a more versatile version. Want your pump to run as quiet as possible? Now you can have that as well as the available power of the MCP655 in the all new MCP655-PWM. That is right, a PWM version on the MCP655...


Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I posted that about 3 days ago.....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Exactly,
> To get any kind of reasonably useful result numbers, you'll have to have a heat source that puts all the heat into a block the same size as the CPU of interest with minimal possibility of dispersing its heat to anywhere but the block.
> And even then, you'd need to do some testing of known quantity of water and how much the temp went up in a time frame to determine the actual wattage transferred, as opposed to the wattage consumed by the heating element.
> If you want real world results, there's no substitute for real world components when so may variables are involved with so many so difficult to account for.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> You have the problem of choosing a platform and only producing results for that platform which is less than ideal
> This method has the advantage eliminating all that...however,determining how many watts was put into the block and how much was radiated away is the stumbling block.
> Doing tests for all platforms is unworkable,especially as you will have to run at least 3 test cycles with remounts.
> Unless i just go midrange board and chip,then do stock and OC runs...
> 
> The loop wont be broken down so its a known quantity,fluid quantity will only change marginally.....
> 
> As i said,this is purely hypothetical right now,but it is coming...its just the methodology i want to work the kinks out of.
Click to expand...

Have you thought of machining a coverplate for your hotplate? Essentially the same thing as a burner cover only there would be four contact plates touching the hotplate. With mounting points drilled out and tapped for studs to allow for a block to be properly mounted and the center raised to the same distance from socket to chip surface? I think this would fix your issue. You could machine one plate for AMD and one for Intel by testing with an aircooler in place atop a temperature probe while you "tune" the plate to replicate as close to a typical CPU as possible by dremeling the contact points until only the optimal material makes contact with the hotplate. In order to get a good surface contact you would probably want to use liquid or spray copper gasket material. Mr. Gasket has a good Copper spray that I know for a fact should be able to withstand the temps you'd be running. It's used to affix Header Gaskets to Cast Iron V8 blocks it'll stand up to any punishment we water coolers could put it through.







< That is of course the hotplate you use is completely solid across the entire radius of the plate.









I'm also pretty sure you can get your wattage use with a display, I just can't remember the nomenclature of the bloody tool. My Gramps would give me a stern lecture if he were here right now since I grew up around the stuff in his home.









Well anyway if you're serious about real world results this is what I would suggest.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you thought of machining a coverplate for your hotplate? Essentially the same thing as a burner cover only there would be four contact plates touching the hotplate. With mounting points drilled out and tapped for studs to allow for a block to be properly mounted and the center raised to the same distance from socket to chip surface? I think this would fix your issue. You could machine one plate for AMD and one for Intel by testing with an aircooler in place atop a temperature probe while you "tune" the plate to replicate as close to a typical CPU as possible by dremeling the contact points until only the optimal material makes contact with the hotplate. In order to get a good surface contact you would probably want to use liquid or spray copper gasket material. Mr. Gasket has a good Copper spray that I know for a fact should be able to withstand the temps you'd be running. It's used to affix Header Gaskets to Cast Iron V8 blocks it'll stand up to any punishment we water coolers could put it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> < That is of course the hotplate you use is completely solid across the entire radius of the plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also pretty sure you can get your wattage use with a display, I just can't remember the nomenclature of the bloody tool. My Gramps would give me a stern lecture if he were here right now since I grew up around the stuff in his home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well anyway if you're serious about real world results this is what I would suggest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Even with a coverplate,you still dont know how many watts went in to the block and how many went in to heating the coverplate.
Seems that actual board mounts are the probably the best method....although you dont know exactly how many watts went in to the block with this method either.

At least with a traditional test rig you get real worlds results rather than extrapolated results.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you thought of machining a coverplate for your hotplate? Essentially the same thing as a burner cover only there would be four contact plates touching the hotplate. With mounting points drilled out and tapped for studs to allow for a block to be properly mounted and the center raised to the same distance from socket to chip surface? I think this would fix your issue. You could machine one plate for AMD and one for Intel by testing with an aircooler in place atop a temperature probe while you "tune" the plate to replicate as close to a typical CPU as possible by dremeling the contact points until only the optimal material makes contact with the hotplate. In order to get a good surface contact you would probably want to use liquid or spray copper gasket material. Mr. Gasket has a good Copper spray that I know for a fact should be able to withstand the temps you'd be running. It's used to affix Header Gaskets to Cast Iron V8 blocks it'll stand up to any punishment we water coolers could put it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> < That is of course the hotplate you use is completely solid across the entire radius of the plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also pretty sure you can get your wattage use with a display, I just can't remember the nomenclature of the bloody tool. My Gramps would give me a stern lecture if he were here right now since I grew up around the stuff in his home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well anyway if you're serious about real world results this is what I would suggest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with a coverplate,you still dont know how many watts went in to the block and how many went in to heating the coverplate.
> Seems that actual board mounts are the probably the best method....although you dont know exactly how many watts went in to the block with this method either.
> 
> At least with a traditional test rig you get real worlds results rather than extrapolated results.
Click to expand...

Yeah true. Probably even cheaper since Copper billet ain't cheap. Still I think you could get a thermal probe in between the plate and the cover it wouldn't be perfect but you could at least gauge the wattage if you know how many c per w or vice versa. Pretty ingenious though if you planned to stick it out with the hotplate. Not that I'm trying to tear a rotator cuff pattin myself on the back.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## LordKaba




----------



## paopaovocal

*Final update for my water cooling.*


----------



## tsm106

Did some change up on my cpu block and took a chance on the XP3. In my config there isn't any odd angle pressure on the fittings. It's working pretty good so far. I haven't wiped it down yet so it's not sparkly but then again my rig isn't very sparkly to begin with.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Did some change up on my cpu block and took a chance on the XP3. In my config there isn't any odd angle pressure on the fittings. It's working pretty good so far. I haven't wiped it down yet so it's not sparkly but then again my rig isn't very sparkly to begin with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those samsung sticks?

What have you clocked them too?


----------



## YowZ

How about this guys:
Updated my PhantomPower rig.
Additional GTX560Ti, waterblocks for both, quiet fans for the radiator, and repowder coat of the internal panel in RAL9005 Satin Black.

My phantom is two tone...

Finished Product:


The process:




































Results in this:


----------



## socketus

OhMan ! you orta put up your own build log for that phantom ! NICE


----------



## YowZ

Cheers xD. I will do, but right now I'm going to the pub so it'll have to wait till tomorrow.


----------



## jellybeans69

Can't wait corsair to release their 900D case so i can start building my first custom loop system, as in my current m-atx case it's a no go


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Did some change up on my cpu block and took a chance on the XP3. In my config there isn't any odd angle pressure on the fittings. It's working pretty good so far. I haven't wiped it down yet so it's not sparkly but then again my rig isn't very sparkly to begin with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those samsung sticks?
> 
> What have you clocked them too?
Click to expand...

Yeap, samsungs and they're clocked to 2400 under 5ghz and 2133 over 5ghz.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I had a small droplet of coolant form underneath the O-ring in one of my BP 90-degree single rotaries that I wiped away with a paper towel. Now, almost two weeks later, a small drop is forming again. Guess this fitting is defective. Sucks, been fine for three months...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I had a small droplet of coolant form underneath the O-ring in one of my BP 90-degree single rotaries that I wiped away with a paper towel. Now, almost two weeks later, a small drop is forming again. Guess this fitting is defective. Sucks, been fine for three months...


More likely its got some crap under the o-ring or the o-ring is damaged.....


----------



## tsm106

It'd be defective if you know it leaked from the rotary joint, otherwise it's just the o-ring like B-Neg said. Swap the o-ring or check your fittment.


----------



## kcuestag

How big is a D5 vario with EK TOP v2 compared to my current EK DCP 4.0?

I got it from a friend who's shipping it on Monday, got it for real cheap ($40 including shipping), is it a good upgrade? I am not looking for a better water flow, but more for a quieter pump, I hope this D5 is quieter.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I had a small droplet of coolant form underneath the O-ring in one of my BP 90-degree single rotaries that I wiped away with a paper towel. Now, almost two weeks later, a small drop is forming again. Guess this fitting is defective. Sucks, been fine for three months...


Try to relieve some of the pressure on the bend or try wiggling the fitting a bit.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordKaba*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


Awesome build







. Love the 690 and I dearly miss my old one. Might pick one up in the future for the wifeys upgrade (if she lets me







).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How big is a D5 vario with EK TOP v2 compared to my current EK DCP 4.0?
> I got it from a friend who's shipping it on Monday, got it for real cheap ($40 including shipping), is it a good upgrade? I am not looking for a better water flow, but more for a quieter pump, I hope this D5 is quieter.


You have made the right choice.
The D5 and top is much bigger than the Jingway pump you have now tho,but mounts are far better than the Jingway


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Try to relieve some of the pressure on the bend or try wiggling the fitting a bit.


Worth a go,sometimes a slacken then tighten again works if the ring isnt damaged

Aw crap,i double posted.....


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Just how big is this hot plate B? Cause while I like the idea, I'm not quite sure the process is sound because the exterior of the block(depending on the cooling surface of the internal flow chamber) may actually hinder real world results. If you have a heating surface that is the size of a CPU that would make much more sense*. Do you have some specs that you can provide of what you're looking to do. I like it, don't get me wrong but that's the biggest hurdle to the turtle race that I see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck tho Mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly,
> 
> To get any kind of reasonably useful result numbers, you'll have to have a heat source that puts all the heat into a block the same size as the CPU of interest with minimal possibility of dispersing its heat to anywhere but the block.
> 
> And even then, you'd need to do some testing of known quantity of water and how much the temp went up in a time frame to determine the actual wattage transferred, as opposed to the wattage consumed by the heating element.
> 
> *If you want real world results, there's no substitute for real world components when so may variables are involved with so many so difficult to account for.*
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I agree,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Exactly,
> To get any kind of reasonably useful result numbers, you'll have to have a heat source that puts all the heat into a block the same size as the CPU of interest with minimal possibility of dispersing its heat to anywhere but the block.
> And even then, you'd need to do some testing of known quantity of water and how much the temp went up in a time frame to determine the actual wattage transferred, as opposed to the wattage consumed by the heating element.
> If you want real world results, there's no substitute for real world components when so may variables are involved with so many so difficult to account for.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have the problem of choosing a platform and only producing results for that platform which is less than ideal
> This method has the advantage eliminating all that...however,determining how many watts was put into the block and how much was radiated away is the stumbling block.
> Doing tests for all platforms is unworkable,especially as you will have to run at least 3 test cycles with remounts.
> Unless i just go midrange board and chip,then do stock and OC runs...
> 
> The loop wont be broken down so its a known quantity,fluid quantity will only change marginally.....
> 
> As i said,this is purely hypothetical right now,but it is coming...its just the methodology i want to work the kinks out of.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> *Final update for my water cooling.*
> 
> Many blocks are designed to work best with a type of socket. This is why some blocks are flat and others are bowed. The other thing is mounting pressure can make a big difference. Using a hot plate only tells half the story. If you were to start testing with CPU's I would do it with just the Intel's. Sadly AMD's are becoming a smaller and smaller player, and even more so with the WC'ing crowd. The real draw back to this is price, and over time it doesn't get any better with new sockets coming out every 1-2 years.


Great video, what did you use to make it?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Try to relieve some of the pressure on the bend or try wiggling the fitting a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Worth a go,sometimes a slacken then tighten again works if the ring isnt damaged
> 
> Aw crap,i double posted.....
Click to expand...

You did that for your 2K post


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Try to relieve some of the pressure on the bend or try wiggling the fitting a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Worth a go,sometimes a slacken then tighten again works if the ring isnt damaged
> 
> Aw crap,i double posted.....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You did that for your 2K post
Click to expand...

Busted


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A landmark post......and it was worthless.

*shameface*


----------



## 218689

My current ongoing project. Just waiting for my pay check so I can start purchasing the missing pieces.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoid.srg*
> 
> My current ongoing project. Just waiting for my pay check so I can start purchasing the missing pieces.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, the SM8's are starting to appear!!

That's a lot of AP-15's... =P


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A landmark post......and it was worthless.
> 
> *shameface*


Have to admit that I would have thought that you would have more than 2K thus far. I see you everywhere but Quality will always beat Quantity imho.

That said...

HAPPY 2K MATE!!! Remember we laugh with you not at you.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have to admit that I would have thought that you would have more than 2K thus far. I see you everywhere but Quality will always beat Quantity imho.
> That said...
> HAPPY 2K MATE!!! Remember we laugh with you not at you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks man!
If i had a post count for the posts i have written then deleted...easily 4k+ posts...


----------



## 218689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Nice, the SM8's are starting to appear!!
> That's a lot of AP-15's... =P


That's only about half of the total amount AP-15's I have







but this is all I will be using in this case.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoid.srg*
> 
> That's only about half of the total amount AP-15's I have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but this is all I will be using in this case.


Wow, AP-tastic build there, awesome







. I like the SM8. Case Labs is really churning out models left and right


----------



## Rognin

Woot 2500!

/post count whoring


----------



## ginger_nuts

Thought I would share what I got to make the other day:



Trying to mount everything in such a small case (CM 690II Advanced) is a challenge.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have made the right choice.
> The D5 and top is much bigger than the Jingway pump you have now tho,but mounts are far better than the Jingway


How much is much bigger? I currently have the EK DCP 4.0 sitting in my radiator:



Would the D5 Vario with the top fit where the current pump is?


----------



## KaRLiToS

I'm not sure it will fit. Its really tight. Make it fit.









I would try it. It would fit with an EK 100mm reservoir (tube) connected directly to your EK Top.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I had a small droplet of coolant form underneath the O-ring in one of my BP 90-degree single rotaries that I wiped away with a paper towel. Now, almost two weeks later, a small drop is forming again. Guess this fitting is defective. Sucks, been fine for three months...


I also had a couple of defective rotary fittings that were less noticeable. Usually the drop was drying before dropping and I could only notice the fittings were defective because there was a apparent white deposit on the leaking rotary joints.
I also had some defective one that were leaking straight from the leak test.

.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I'm not sure it will fit. Its really tight. Make it fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would try it. It would fit with an EK 100mm reservoir (tube) connected directly to your EK Top.


Hey, where's you MOTM post bit?


----------



## KaRLiToS

I am really waiting for it and the money prize.







I don't want to give them too much pressure.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Thought I would share what I got to make the other day:
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to mount everything in such a small case (CM 690II Advanced) is a challenge.


You should buy my 2/3 VGA fitting to connect the pump to the Res. Would save a ton of hassle and you won't have any threads impeding flow. Should fit perfectly or damned close. Might need a short adapter but it would simplify your maintenance.









Link in sig.









Is that Res Centered or is it just a touch off center?









Oh drat I fergot you're in UpsideDownland Mate. It would probably cost to much to ship to you from Washington State. We're almost on completely opposite sides of the globe.









I tried.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Thought I would share what I got to make the other day:
> 
> Trying to mount everything in such a small case (CM 690II Advanced) is a challenge.


I love the challenge of my old one. I ended up going with a bay res.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I'm not too worried about the leak as it takes weeks for it to even become a droplet. I'll probably be tearing it down in the next few weeks anyway so I will fix it then...


----------



## golfergolfer

Just a quick question. On a scale of 1-10 how important is it to have the loop going res --> pump? A rating and a comment would be greatly appreciated







Gonna be rebuilding my loop soon so need some advice


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just a quick question. On a scale of 1-10 how important is it to have the loop going res --> pump? A rating and a comment would be greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna be rebuilding my loop soon so need some advice


That would be a 10, 100% must have the res right before the pump. Preferable having the res gravity feeding the pump directly.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Here is a pic of my new RAD


Congrats on your purchase. so How's it going?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You should buy my 2/3 VGA fitting to connect the pump to the Res. Would save a ton of hassle and you won't have any threads impeding flow. Should fit perfectly or damned close. Might need a short adapter but it would simplify your maintenance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link in sig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that Res Centered or is it just a touch off center?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh drat I fergot you're in UpsideDownland Mate. It would probably cost to much to ship to you from Washington State. We're almost on completely opposite sides of the globe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I did look at the local version of the VGA adapters, but I wasn't sold on the looks. The Res. is centered when it is rotated correctly.

I also looked at the stuff you are selling, but by my rough calculations, I can buy new locally when you consider postage.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love the challenge of my old one. I ended up going with a bay res.


Did heavely consider a bay res. but I am trying to go for a more minimal apperance.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You should buy my 2/3 VGA fitting to connect the pump to the Res. Would save a ton of hassle and you won't have any threads impeding flow. Should fit perfectly or damned close. Might need a short adapter but it would simplify your maintenance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link in sig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that Res Centered or is it just a touch off center?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh drat I fergot you're in UpsideDownland Mate. It would probably cost to much to ship to you from Washington State. We're almost on completely opposite sides of the globe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did look at the local version of the VGA adapters, but I wasn't sold on the looks. The Res. is centered when it is rotated correctly.
> 
> I also looked at the stuff you are selling, but by my rough calculations, I can buy new locally when you consider postage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love the challenge of my old one. I ended up going with a bay res.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Did heavely consider a bay res. but I am trying to go for a more minimal apperance.
Click to expand...

Yeah I figured as much GNuts. All good I wouldn't ask anyone to pay triple markup for a 2/3 VGA fitting. That would take some serious lack of purchase sense to do so.









~Ceadder


----------



## NomNomNom

Surprisingly my loop has been running maintenance free for over 2 years now, the tubes seem a little clouded but almost as clear as day 1.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Thought I would share what I got to make the other day:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to mount everything in such a small case (CM 690II Advanced) is a challenge.


HEY!! That pump looks Awfully Familiar ...







~~







Let me know how loud it is, Have not had a Chance to Run Mine..


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> That would be a 10, 100% must have the res right before the pump. Preferable having the res gravity feeding the pump directly.


That is pretty much what I thought just needed someone to clarify it for me. Good to know bad for design :/


----------



## Neo Zuko

CaseLabs Merlin SM8 PC Case with top mounted Pedestal Water Loop Plan:

http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/262019538537836544/photo/1

My SM8 Case:

http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/262038128032890880/photo/1

http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/262038627306061824/photo/1

Buying the Pedestal soon...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> CaseLabs Merlin SM8 PC Case with top mounted Pedestal Water Loop Plan:
> http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/262019538537836544/photo/1
> My SM8 Case:
> http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/262038128032890880/photo/1
> http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/262038627306061824/photo/1
> Buying the Pedestal soon...


You can imbed the pics using this button:



Congrats on the case btw


----------



## paopaovocal

Quote:


> Great video, what did you use to make it?


I don't know because I didn't make this video myself.Complete-tv staffs made it after they came to interview me about my computer.
I guess they use Adobe Premier Pro but I'm not sure.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Haha I tried but my iPhone does not play nice with the normal google plus hosting I do. PC is down for now.


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New Swiftech MCP655-PWM 12v Water Pump Module. Price: $109.99.
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html


I did a search on that pump and there doesnt seem to be much info about it atm. I have been waiting for something like this for awhile(not too sure if ac D5 would fit on a bp mod kit).

Anyone knows more info about this unit? Wonder if its a limited run (hopefully not







)


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> CaseLabs Merlin SM8 PC Case with top mounted Pedestal Water Loop Plan:
> http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/262019538537836544/photo/1
> My SM8 Case:
> http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/262038128032890880/photo/1
> http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/262038627306061824/photo/1
> Buying the Pedestal soon...


Nice. I mounted mine underneath but will certainly want to see pics with a top mounted pedestal.








I've thought about adding another up top in the future to load up with some of these HDD's I have laying around since I decommissioned two rigs.


----------



## Fuganater

EKWB is releasing a FC Single Bridge.

Quote:


> A new addition to CSQ line of Full Cover blocks will be single FC Bridges that will deliver the upper ports for the FC Blocks. Single Bridges will be available to purchase separatelly in Black Acetal and Acrylic material. This is the special feature that customers asked for, which will be the most usefull in a single VGA card setup. Two G1/4 plugs to seal unused G1/4 ports are enslosed in the delivery.






http://www.thinkcomputers.org/ek-is-about-to-release-fc-single-bridge/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

360 in the top of a Corsair C70..i still have the rad tanks to paint and mirror polish the sides to do,this was a proof of concept fit.



















I must admit,im enjoying working on small cases again.....


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I must admit,im enjoying working on small cases again.....


LOL. I guess everything is small compared to the LD case.


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone has a D5 with top and an EK DCP 4.0? I'd like to see a picture of both together to compare their sizes, getting D5 Vario with top in a week or two and I am worried that it might not fit where my current EK DCP 4.0 is sitting at.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Anyone has a D5 with top and an EK DCP 4.0? I'd like to see a picture of both together to compare their sizes, getting D5 Vario with top in a week or two and I am worried that it might not fit where my current EK DCP 4.0 is sitting at.





Just imagine a D5 on the EK top. I didn't have an extra.


----------



## kcuestag

Thank you Fuganater, hopefully I'll be able to fit it, can't wait to see how the D5 with top performs, specially on noise compared to the EK DCP 4.0.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New Swiftech MCP655-PWM 12v Water Pump Module. Price: $109.99.
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a search on that pump and there doesnt seem to be much info about it atm. I have been waiting for something like this for awhile(not too sure if ac D5 would fit on a bp mod kit).
> 
> Anyone knows more info about this unit? Wonder if its a limited run (hopefully not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Dazmode has been selling the D5 Strong Vario with the tach cable for quite a while. They're complete oem units from Laing.
No problem fitting the Bitspower D5 mod kits on them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Dazmode has been selling the D5 Strong Vario with the tach cable for quite a while. They're complete oem units from Laing.
> No problem fitting the Bitspower D5 mod kits on them.


Wrong pump,this a PWM D5 from swiftech.
Same housing as a normal D5 tho.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thank you Fuganater, hopefully I'll be able to fit it, can't wait to see how the D5 with top performs, specially on noise compared to the EK DCP 4.0.


Do you have some kind of padding for under it? it has a metal mounting plate and might scratch/dent your fins.


----------



## mannyfc

3770k @ 4.7 ghz
8gb 2400mhz team ram
Gtx480
Ek blocks and pump
Durelene tubing
And a 360 rad


----------



## grandpatzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julio.g5*


I like this









I considering using a Phobya 1080, would using a car radiator better?

Are car radiators more restrictive?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Alu and Copper....so much fail.......


----------



## Willhemmens

I doubt they're all Alu and Copper? Anyway, a Phobia 1080 would probably be a better idea.


----------



## nyk20z3

Found this on FB Nom -


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Found this on FB Nom -


Yes....they are mine.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313101/build-log-mil-spec


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New Swiftech MCP655-PWM 12v Water Pump Module. Price: $109.99.
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a search on that pump and there doesnt seem to be much info about it atm. I have been waiting for something like this for awhile(not too sure if ac D5 would fit on a bp mod kit).
> 
> Anyone knows more info about this unit? Wonder if its a limited run (hopefully not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

it a replacement motor for mcp655-b water pump single speed 4 out of 5 with the fan controler monitor can push 10 feet of 1/2 hose need anymore info let me know


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes....they are mine.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1313101/build-log-mil-spec


Did you powder coat those rads yourself?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> it a replacement motor for mcp655-b water pump single speed 4 out of 5 with the fan controler monitor can push 10 feet of 1/2 hose need anymore info let me know


So even though they are PWM I'm assuming they can only go as high as setting #4 like the -b version.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Did you powder coat those rads yourself?


No,XSPC supplied them as part of a sponsorship package.


----------



## ginger_nuts

B neg. what or how do you get someone like XSPC to sponsor you?

That is a hell of a sponsor







So jealous


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> B neg. what or how do you get someone like XSPC to sponsor you?
> That is a hell of a sponsor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So jealous


You need to get a few builds under your belt,do them well and if you can demonstrate how you can get them coverage,then you might be in luck.
However,some builders that get sponsorship basically rip manu's off,they are wary of dealing with unproven track records.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need to get a few builds under your belt,do them well and if you can demonstrate how you can get them coverage,then you might be in luck.
> However,some builders that get sponsorship basically rip manu's off,they are wary of dealing with unproven track records.


That sucks that people rip them off. Ruins it for the legit people who can actually help promote the products in a wonderful light. I had always assumed they made you sign a document or something....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> That sucks that people rip them off. Ruins it for the legit people who can actually help promote the products in a wonderful light. I had always assumed they made you sign a document or something....


It happens more often than you think....
This is why you end up with the same guys getting the same kit,this is why they tend to be vocally active in defense of their sponsor...

If you use the product and find it to be good,then its wise to approach that manu. I used XSPC rads with my SR2,i was sponsored one of them and bought the other 2,i didnt want to be greedy,you must put your money where your mouth is. Then,when this Z77 came along,i asked them if they wanted to get involved from the outset. They said yes.

It doesnt mean the next build im doing...(a cosmos II in 2 weeks btw) is going to get sponsored by them,i may have to look to others or just pay for it.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

A new build? Ooo.. can't wait to see!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mannyfc*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 3770k @ 4.7 ghz
> 8gb 2400mhz team ram
> Gtx480
> Ek blocks and pump
> Durelene tubing
> And a 360 rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


a neat set up.









BTW Your rig is S3XY!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It happens more often than you think....
> This is why you end up with the same guys getting the same kit,this is why they tend to be vocally active in defense of their sponsor...
> If you use the product and find it to be good,then its wise to approach that manu. I used XSPC rads with my SR2,i was sponsored one of them and bought the other 2,i didnt want to be greedy,you must put your money where your mouth is. Then,when this Z77 came along,i asked them if they wanted to get involved from the outset. They said yes.
> It doesnt mean the next build im doing...(a cosmos II in 2 weeks btw) is going to get sponsored by them,i may have to look to others or just pay for it.


Your SR2 build with the copper tube looks a million dollars, that C70 concept looks like it will be similar quality and yet another in a few weeks, and a Cosmos II at that (can't wait)

And at the cost of water cooling parts;

I figure you either have as much money as I wish to win on lotto









or

you earn more money then I could imagine









or

you build these stellar systems for other people, which would be a dream job in my opinion









Either way keep the great work coming, the info you pass on is much needed and appreciated.


----------



## kkorky

I'm looking for a similar fitting but from Bitspower or Enzotech, but i don't want to have to buy from the States-does anyone know of a similar fitting(im using BP shinny silver fittings) being sold by any European dealers (i'll be using it to connect my reservoir to my pump top)

I've checked around with the usual suspects but without success-the idea being that i don't spend 20 dollars to ship a 5 dollar product









http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-14-Thread-to-14-Thread-Rotary-Fitting--Chrome-pid-15479.html


----------



## Rickles

Well, here is where I am at for a bit, maybe I can talk the wife into a few things for christmas. (thinking 2 120 mm rads)




Spoiler: purple mode HUE










Spoiler: probe temps while idling tf2 and websurfing






Also the curtains my wife got to block the sunlight <3

I really want to put a fat 120mm rad under the 5.25 bays..

and my purple is a little blueish, at least I think..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Well, here is where I am at for a bit, maybe I can talk the wife into a few things for christmas. (thinking 2 120 mm rads)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the curtains my wife got to block the sunlight <3
> I really want to put a fat 120mm rad under the 5.25 bays..
> and my purple is a little blueish, at least I think..


From where im sitting your Purple Looks Great.. Nice Job


----------



## Borarah

Is that the Pastel Raspberry Purple?


----------



## Systemlord

I have an strange issue with one of my Hardware Labs 480 GTX radiator, after noticing a strange bubbling up of the powder coating around the end-tank where the 1/4" inch threads are located, it appears Willie at Hardware Labs wants my radiator out of curiosity. The really strange thing is it's only effecting one end of the end-tanks on my radiator, weird!

Willie has even arranged for pick up via FedEx that will come to my door to retrieve my 480 GTX radiator, Hardware Labs will send me a replacement for my troubles, that's what I call customer support!
Quote:


> *Willie,
> 
> These are one of those 1 in a few 10's of thousand cases that need closer scrutiny. Clearly this one is a matter of great curiosity given its isolated nature.*


*1. Tygon Silver Antimicrobial Tubing
2. EK Supreme HF Nickel - Plexi
3. EK-FC480 GTX Nickel - Plexi
4. Silver Kill Coil
5. Distilled Water*


----------



## Fuganater

That looks like holes in the tank.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

This is why HWL are one of the best rad manu's out there...

Great products backed up by great CS.


----------



## paopaovocal

*More snapshots from my water cooling builds.*

















*Now my pump is swiftech 355.Is it nescessory if I change it to pmp 500?

Sorry for my bad in English.*


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> *More snapshots from my water cooling builds.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now my pump is swiftech 355.Is it nescessory if I change it to pmp 500?
> Sorry for my bad in English.*


Nice, clean and uncluttered look!







No for some reason I desire a glass of milk!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is why HWL are one of the best rad manu's out there...
> Great products backed up by great CS.


I won't even look at another brand of radiator, I own four HWL radiators and all have the build quality that you can't get anywhere else! I'm sure this 480 GTX is just a 1 in 10,000 that turned out with acne.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borarah*
> 
> Is that the Pastel Raspberry Purple?


its some of the pastel white diluted so it is somewhat see through with deep purple added


----------



## PCModderMike

Looks like it was made to fit a radiator IMO....about to finish this one up and call it a day.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> *More snapshots from my water cooling builds.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now my pump is swiftech 355.Is it nescessory if I change it to pmp 500?
> Sorry for my bad in English.*


Are you using Mayhems now? If so you should try Ice Dragon Cooling nanofluid next time. Mayhems pastel is based off of Ice Dragon, but it is diluted. Ice Dragon looks WAY more white. Should make the coolant pop even more.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks like it was made to fit a radiator IMO....about to finish this one up and call it a day.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sure Does.. That Looks Great..


----------



## paopaovocal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are you using Mayhems now? If so you should try Ice Dragon Cooling nanofluid next time. Mayhems pastel is based off of Ice Dragon, but it is diluted. Ice Dragon looks WAY more white. Should make the coolant pop even more.


I have both mayhem aurora and ice dragon cooling.I use ice dragon when I run some benchmark such as 3dmark11.It makes my system cooler than other fluid about 5 degree celsious.I don't use ice dragon all the time because I don't see the propeller of bitspower flow indicator too.

When I'm not use computer to run benchmark I choose mayhem aurora for my water cooling system.It's quite beautiful.









sorry for my bad in English.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

The tubing on the far left is Danger Den UV blue, and both tubing on the far right is some Home Depot bought tubing I bought a month ago. The differences between the two is the Danger Den tubing is more pliable, whereas the Home Depot tubing is noticeably more rigid, more transparent, and has a smooth but hard texture upon touch.

I also noticed a section of the Danger Den developed a little bit of plastisizing after three days of sitting last week, and the Home Depot tubing didn't. Right now, I'm only using distilled water and Primochill UV purple die, and it looks like I'll keep it that way for the foreseeable future.


----------



## 02ssei

Raystorm with blue LED's installed. White LED's arriving tomorrow which i hope to tint with some paint they use to tint car taillights to achieve a subtle white glow.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There's always the option of building your own manual PWM controller, and adding a switch to allow mobo or manual control of the pump speed.
> This is my version, it runs triple 35Xs with no problem. I set the fan profile to be more agressive so it ramps up quicker when in mobo control which also lets it run slower than I have the manual minimum set at, but it holds the temps OK.
> Darlene
> I actually made 2 of them, one to install in my rig, and one for a reference and to have for testing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Dude, I am so doing that sometime.


----------



## Fonne

Has people seen this ? - *Blank CSQ design* ?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16700/ex-blc-1189/EK_FC_Bridge_Blank_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_EK-FC_Link_BLANK_Parallel_CSQ.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16989/ex-blc-1217/EK_FC_Bridge_Blank_Serial_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Link_BLANK_Serial_CSQ_-_Plexi.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16699/ex-blc-1188/EK_FC_Bridge_Blank_Serial_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acetal_EK-FC_Link_BLANK_Serial_Acetal_CSQ.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The blank refers to the plate itself,its a blanking plate.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing on the far left is Danger Den UV blue, and both tubing on the far right is some Home Depot bought tubing I bought a month ago. The differences between the two is the Danger Den tubing is more pliable, whereas the Home Depot tubing is noticeably more rigid, more transparent, and has a smooth but hard texture upon touch.
> I also noticed a section of the Danger Den developed a little bit of plastisizing after three days of sitting last week, and the Home Depot tubing didn't. Right now, I'm only using distilled water and Primochill UV purple die, and it looks like I'll keep it that way for the foreseeable future.


What are your temps on your gpu(s)?


----------



## Systemlord

I have a question about D5 pumping power, is one D5 pump on setting #5 enough for a Supremacy, two high-end graphics card blocks and full coverage MB blocks using two 560 radiators?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I have a question about D5 pumping power, is one D5 pump on setting #5 enough for a Supremacy, two high-end graphics card blocks and full coverage MB blocks using two 560 radiators?


Nope. Gonna want two for that much hardware. If your spending that much anyways whats another $80 pump. Also works as a fail safe if one dies.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Nope. Gonna want two for that much hardware. If your spending that much anyways whats another $80 pump. Also works as a fail safe if one dies.


Two D5's it is then, waiting for the EK dual pump tops. Would mounting the D5's vertically in a 5.25" bay make it easier to bleed air from the pumps vs having them horizontal?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Nope. Gonna want two for that much hardware. If your spending that much anyways whats another $80 pump. Also works as a fail safe if one dies.


Not true.
One can do the job but 2 pumps builds in redundancy....which I like.

This is the flow from 1 D5 thru 3 480's,3 FC GPU blocks,2 CPU blocks and 2 Mobo blocks....



A plethora of flow.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.
> One can do the job but 2 pumps builds in redundancy....which I like.
> This is the flow from 1 D5 thru 3 480's,3 FC GPU blocks,2 CPU blocks and 2 Mobo blocks....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A plethora of flow.


I stand corrected. Didnt realize they that had that much power. Might as well not strain the hell out of one pump though especially after all that $$ has been spent.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Two D5's it is then, waiting for the EK dual pump tops. Would mounting the D5's vertically in a 5.25" bay make it easier to bleed air from the pumps vs having them horizontal?


Makes no difference when bleeding to which way you have the pump/s.

The air is bleed-ed from the res. or T fill line.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> I stand corrected. Didnt realize they that had that much power. Might as well not strain the hell out of one pump though especially after all that $$ has been spent.


I agree,pumps are like balls....its better with 2


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I agree,pumps are like balls....its better with 2


Haha! So tempting to sig that...


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I agree,pumps are like balls....its better with 2


and we overcompensate for the other by the size of our radiators. If only there were 600 rads....


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> and we overcompensate for the other by the size of our radiators. If only there were 600 rads....












I have no rads for my computer...


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Koolance Introduces the CPU-380 Water Blocks
> Koolance has today launched two new CPU water blocks, the CPU-380I for Intel chips and CPU-380A for AMD processors. Both models feature a microfin nickel-plated copper cold plate, an acetal top, standard G 1/4 BSP threading and a thick steel mounting bracket.
> 
> The CPU-380I and CPU-380A cost $74.99.






Source

I guess these are supposed to replace the 370 I just bought....


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> I guess these are supposed to replace the 370 I just bought....


Nice! I like it!

Here's a few more quick pics of my loop with new monsoon chrome fittings. Will change AGAIN soon, LOL. Have two more HD 5870s on the way, will only be CFx2 for now, until I can get a better mobo that will support 3-way CF. (Sorry, cell phone pics - camera needs batteries)








My quick disconnects in my bay behind XSPC 750 combo unit.


My 360 upper rad.(With custom painted Yate Loons).


Powercolor HD5870 LCS (Factory installed EK FC block)


OCZ Chrome CPU block


Bottom 140 Extreme Rad with China flow meter with temp sensor.


All the tubing is Durelene 3/8" x 5/8" and the coolant is distilled with Mayhems blue dye. Loop is 10 days old - no signs of clouding yet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> I guess these are supposed to replace the 370 I just bought....


I say fail if they price this higher than the cpu-370


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> I guess these are supposed to replace the 370 I just bought....


I say fail if they price this higher than the cpu-370


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> I stand corrected. Didnt realize they that had that much power. Might as well not strain the hell out of one pump though especially after all that $$ has been spent.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree,pumps are like balls....its better with 2
Click to expand...

Do I needa send a bloke intervention team BNeg?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> I guess these are supposed to replace the 370 I just bought....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I say fail if they price this higher than the cpu-370
Click to expand...

Agreed. Although I wonder what the performance would be compared to 370. thinking:

If it performs better, it might just be worth more. But the market will decide that when it's all said an done.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

This looks like a more simple and less expensive way of making the block. I would then expect a slightly cheaper price than the current cpu-370.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This looks like a more simple and less expensive way of making the block. I would then expect a slightly cheaper price than the current cpu-370.


Quote:


> The CPU-380I and CPU-380A cost $74.99


Sorry it got left out in the original post copy.

http://koolance.com/cpu-380i-processor-water-block

The 370 is also no longer listed on their site


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Sorry it got left out in the original post copy.
> http://koolance.com/cpu-380i-processor-water-block


Thanks bud, just saw that on their site too.

Old cpu-370 $84.99.... a $10 difference.....well, its something. I would have like to see it dropped at $69.99 but its too close to the 370SI/SA..

Also noticed that Koolance dropped the price on the 370Si/SA on their site. Perhaps a price adjustment to better separate them or maybe a 380 SI/SA model coming soon?

edit: I'm tempted to get a cpu-370 now


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks bud, just saw that on their site too.
> Old cpu-370 $84.99.... a $10 difference.....well, its something. I would have like to see it dropped at $69.99 but its too close to the 370SI/SA..
> Also noticed that Koolance dropped the price on the 370Si/SA on their site. Perhaps a price adjustment to better separate them or maybe a 380 SI/SA model coming soon?
> edit: I'm tempted to get a cpu-370 now


I have an unused one lying around... Only the intel bracket left, I misplaced the amd one.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What are your temps on your gpu(s)?


I haven't gotten to that stage yet. I barely got it running just yesterday. This is all a learning curve for me in understanding what you guys already know... So once I get a better understanding of the inner workings of PC temperature cooling, I'll be able to give you a better answer. And rest assured, I'll be PMing you for the "how to" in the near future.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I haven't gotten to that stage yet. I barely got it running just yesterday. This is all a learning curve for me in understanding what you guys already know... So once I get a better understanding of the inner workings of PC temperature cooling, I'll be able to give you a better answer. And rest assured, I'll be PMing you for the "how to" in the near future.


Msi AfterBurner


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> edit: I'm tempted to get a cpu-370 now


Love mine


----------



## Fonne

Stren has already testet the CPU-380 - And its sure dont look like a "fail"






















And a full review:

http://extremerigs.blogspot.dk/p/koolance-cpu-380i-cpu-water-block-review.html
Quote:


> *Conclusion
> 
> The CPU-380 is an excellent block and performs at the very top of the group. It has good flow, and has good manufacturing quality. It feels solid and there is no reason not to give this the gold award in the roundup.
> 
> Highly Recommended - 10/10*


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Seems like all they did was replace the nickel plated brass
with Acetal top and put 2 dips at the end where the microfins end.
why wouldn't they add microfins to the dips as well..more surface area
equals more heat exchange..maybe they are waiting for CPU 390 for that..lol
but if it performs better i'm down...
was going to get 370 rev.1.1 again for my new build as
i love the performance but gonna hold out now for a tiny bit.


----------



## Fonne

The CPU-370 got more channels than the CPU-380:

- CPU-380 (45 channels in an area of 28x30mm)
- CPU-370 (53 channels in an area of 28mmx35mm)

The depth is bigger on the CPU-380 to get some surface area, but the performance is really nice.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> The CPU-370 got more channels than the CPU-380:
> - CPU-380 (45 channels in an area of 28x30mm)
> - CPU-370 (53 channels in an area of 28mmx35mm)
> The depth is bigger on the CPU-380 to get some surface area, but the performance is really nice.


370 it is then..lol..

by the way.. seen commodore 64 below your name..
your my daily hero..lol.. would love to get one of those old
bastards and try to WC it..lol..would be hilarious..
or amiga or vic-20 or coleco vision.. so many old comps
i would love to find again..just for the nostalgic side of me.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Been using the cpu-370 in mine for a week now and lovin it. Main reasons for buying it were excellent reviews and it has amd and intel fittings supplied, just incase I need to upgrade ...again...


----------



## GAMERIG

These are soo beautiful 2012 bling-bling CPU-380 waterblock!





Koolance's *CPU-380 WB launch* <~ click


----------



## LuckyNumber13

And it grows..
FInally just got my Alpha cool Monsta 480
rad delivered today. wow what a beast..
makes my RX360 look anorexic..lol..
now i can finally start with exact measurements
for my addition..one more week and it will be mounted.


----------



## socketus

HoLY GaWdz ! that DOES dwarf the rx360. well, you said halloween would be the time of your case mod so I'm waiting to see this


----------



## Plutonium10

My (eventual) water-cooled build is finally taking shape.

CPU: Swiftech Apogee HD
GPU: Heatkiller 79X0 Nickel with backplate
Rad: Swiftech MCR320-XP
Pump: D5 Vario with Bitspower top
Tubing: Primochill LRT White 3/8-5/8
Fittings: Bitspower matt black comps

Now I just need to get a reservoir and some more fittings, as well as figuring out what fans to get. I still can't decide how I should control them though. It's either run PWM fans (Noiseblocker eLoop, Cougar Vortex, etc.) right from my motherboard and adjust fan speed based on CPU temperature, or run AP-15s and use a fan controller to adjust fan speed based on water temperature.


----------



## Michalius

Get fans that run at a good speed and leave them there. Simplifies everything.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Stren has already testet the CPU-380 - And its sure dont look like a "fail"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a full review:
> http://extremerigs.blogspot.dk/p/koolance-cpu-380i-cpu-water-block-review.html


Uhmmm...read my post as I'm citing *price* not performance. I don't expect terrible performance from Koolance. They make great stuff









edit: I'm aware of the price now








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Seems like all they did was replace the nickel plated brass
> with Acetal top and put 2 dips at the end where the microfins end.
> why wouldn't they add microfins to the dips as well..more surface area
> equals more heat exchange..maybe they are waiting for CPU 390 for that..lol
> but if it performs better i'm down...
> was going to get 370 rev.1.1 again for my new build as
> i love the performance but gonna hold out now for a tiny bit.


Looks tempting now with the 380








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> The CPU-370 got more channels than the CPU-380:
> - CPU-380 (45 channels in an area of 28x30mm)
> - CPU-370 (53 channels in an area of 28mmx35mm)
> The depth is bigger on the CPU-380 to get some surface area, but the performance is really nice.










...interesting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> 370 it is then..lol..
> by the way.. seen commodore 64 below your name..
> your my daily hero..lol.. would love to get one of those old
> bastards and try to WC it..lol..would be hilarious..
> or amiga or vic-20 or coleco vision.. so many old comps
> i would love to find again..just for the nostalgic side of me.


I like the looks of the 370 tbh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Been using the cpu-370 in mine for a week now and lovin it. Main reasons for buying it were excellent reviews and it has amd and intel fittings supplied, just incase I need to upgrade ...again...


I had a 360 which was very nice but i was missing all the hardware (never buy a cpu block w/out hardware







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> And it grows..
> FInally just got my Alpha cool Monsta 480
> rad delivered today. wow what a beast..
> makes my RX360 look anorexic..lol..
> now i can finally start with exact measurements
> for my addition..one more week and it will be mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats and enjoy that beast! I wanted to change one of my 360s for a 480 but ppcs was gonna charge me a 20% restock fee even though my order didn't go out and was delayed. I kept both and bought a Monsta 240 from a fellow member.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> My (eventual) water-cooled build is finally taking shape.
> CPU: Swiftech Apogee HD
> GPU: Heatkiller 79X0 Nickel with backplate
> Rad: Swiftech MCR320-XP
> Pump: D5 Vario with Bitspower top
> Tubing: Primochill LRT White 3/8-5/8
> Fittings: Bitspower matt black comps
> Now I just need to get a reservoir and some more fittings, as well as figuring out what fans to get. I still can't decide how I should control them though. It's either run PWM fans (Noiseblocker eLoop, Cougar Vortex, etc.) right from my motherboard and adjust fan speed based on CPU temperature, or run AP-15s and use a fan controller to adjust fan speed based on water temperature.


get away from that primochill IMO... look at this thread if you need convincing.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Do you have some kind of padding for under it? it has a metal mounting plate and might scratch/dent your fins.


I have one that came with the EK DCP 4.0, if needed, I'll buy some kind of padding/foam to make sure I don't damage the radiator, thanks for the advice.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> get away from that primochill IMO... look at this thread if you need convincing.


I'll have a read. I was under the impression that the plasticizer leaching was mostly just a cosmetic issue. If I was using clear tubing I wouldn't buy primochill but I didn't think it would matter with white. I'll probably just be using distilled + kill coil, if that makes any difference.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Stren has already testet the CPU-380 - And its sure dont look like a "fail"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a full review:
> http://extremerigs.blogspot.dk/p/koolance-cpu-380i-cpu-water-block-review.html


Hey! Where's my trusty OCZ Hydroflow block in that lineup?


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> get away from that primochill IMO... look at this thread if you need convincing.


This ^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'll have a read. I was under the impression that the plasticizer leaching was mostly just a cosmetic issue. If I was using clear tubing I wouldn't buy primochill but I didn't think it would matter with white. I'll probably just be using distilled + kill coil, if that makes any difference.


If you will be using a clear res, that plasticizer will ruin the looks, like what is happening to mine now.








BTW, I'm using distilled water + kill coil.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> This ^
> If you will be using a clear res, that plasticizer will ruin the looks, like what is happening to mine now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I'm using distilled water + kill coil.


Going on three weeks and the water looks pristine. I reused some of the plasticized tube I had lying around.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Going on three weeks and the water looks pristine. I reused some of the plasticized tube I had lying around.


My distilled water looks pristine, but not the res. I can see cloudiness on my DDC impeller. The cloudiness starts right after I reused the plasticized tubing.
Anyway, I already received the system scrubber from primochill, but I won't use it until I find some free time in case I need to redo the loops all over again.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Does someone has a link of this system scrubber or review?

I can't find anything


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Does someone has a link of this system scrubber or review?
> I can't find anything


From what I've read it's not available for the public to purchase.. you would need to contact them directly.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Does someone has a link of this system scrubber or review?
> I can't find anything


About a month ago .. I was reading about a guy who used that Scrubber and turned his system into a mess.. i'll search for that and link it.. Thought he had pics. Oh well

*HERE* is where he is 12hrs in after adding the Scrubber and *Here* with another update


----------



## Plutonium10

Well then. Maybe I should get some different white tubing. Actually black would be fine too.


----------



## Michalius

Leak testing!


----------



## Gunsrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That isn't actually how it works. More flow is theoreteically better. Slowing down water flow should never improve temps.


This is incorrect, it is called retention/residence time and can make all the difference.
My job as a DCS operatror relies on water cooling, and I can tell you water flow and retention time can have a big impact on cooling.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Leak testing!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I wish mine would look like this. Very clean


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Leak testing!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> I wish mine would look like this. Very clean
Click to expand...

I agree with you captvizcenzo, If I could make my systems look like this. I would have to be richer.









Saying that I do have a few tickets in the $70 Million lotto for tonight


----------



## Fonne

Some was talking about the small block from Heatkiller (From this picture)



http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p14784_Watercool-HEATKILLER--GPU-X--Core-GTX-660.html

And know Aquatuning got them:

Watercool HEATKILLER® microSW-X 40 DIY



http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p14785_Watercool-HEATKILLER--microSW-X-40-DIY.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Some was talking about the small block from Heatkiller (From this picture)
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p14784_Watercool-HEATKILLER--GPU-X--Core-GTX-660.html
> 
> And know Aquatuning got them:
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER® microSW-X 40 DIY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p14785_Watercool-HEATKILLER--microSW-X-40-DIY.html


Sadly I cannot run those on the VRMs' of my 6870s' without modifications. So I'll have to either separate the heat sinks from their covers and use those or mod the covers to fit over whichever universal block I'm able to go with.









I just wish that SOMEBODY in the States would carry these Universals to give me more options.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sadly I cannot run those on the VRMs' of my 6870s' without *modifications*. So I'll have to either separate the heat sinks from their covers and use those or mod the covers to fit over whichever universal block I'm able to go with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wish that SOMEBODY in the States would carry these Universals to give me more options.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Isn't that the name of the game?


----------



## ginger_nuts

I pulled one of these Y.S. Tech FD121225HB 120mm out of a server rack at work.

Except the noise factor 44 dbA thought they would be fantastic for high FPI rads.

Saying that, the fan is only noisy in the sense of moving air.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

PIPEBENDING TIME!!!

The loop is in,just needs a a little tweaking here and there to get the lines right,but this is the layout.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PIPEBENDING TIME!!!
> The loop is in,just needs a a little tweaking here and there to get the lines right,but this is the layout.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: HIGH RES. PICS!!!


That just looks plain mean and strong. Loving it


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Leak testing!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


People love to give CSQ a hard time...but that looks really good!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PIPEBENDING TIME!!!
> The loop is in,just needs a a little tweaking here and there to get the lines right,but this is the layout.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome!







About how long does it take to run a loop like that? I know of course you've got a lot more experience with it than most, but for someone who is proficient in the craft...how long does it take you?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> People love to give CSQ a hard time...but that looks really good!
> Awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About how long does it take to run a loop like that? I know of course you've got a lot more experience with it than most, but for someone who is proficient in the craft...how long does it take you?


About an hour.
Depending on how many bends i need to make...


----------



## JohnnyEars

That's just plain sick B - you'll have to try and talk sponsors into drowning the gpu's


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PIPEBENDING TIME!!!
> The loop is in,just needs a a little tweaking here and there to get the lines right,but this is the layout.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks simply incredible ... wow ... wish I could have a rig like that ... Would sell a kidney and my soul ...+1 rep sir


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PIPEBENDING TIME!!!
> The loop is in,just needs a a little tweaking here and there to get the lines right,but this is the layout.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip


AArrrrrrrrggh So much win my eyes can barely take it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That just looks plain mean and strong. Loving it


It fits in really well and adds to the military flavour
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> That's just plain sick B - you'll have to try and talk sponsors into drowning the gpu's










It would be nice but im not greedy,if someone offers i would do it but im not chasing any more freebies.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> That looks simply incredible ... wow ... wish I could have a rig like that ... Would sell a kidney and my soul ...+1 rep sir


Its not hard to do,look at the bending guide in my sig
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> AArrrrrrrrggh So much win my eyes can barely take it.


Thanks Tarnix,im a little bit in love with this build tbh.....


----------



## NewHighScore

I tried to come up with something cool to say but......

WHAT THEY SAID!!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I tried to come up with something cool to say but......
> WHAT THEY SAID!!!!


Thanks mate!

Have a look thru the build log and leave some comments,i know the Dad looks at the OCN and Bittech threads about this build,he would be stoked to read your comments.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not hard to do,look at the bending guide in my sig


It's not the difficulty ... it's the funds ... ... upgraded to a GTX 680 recently, paid for next years studies and now I am so broke ... lmao ...

And it i want to WC I need to import everything from the US ... which for now makes it a no no


----------



## kcuestag

After seeing pictures of people posting their water flow on the reservoir, I realize how weak my EK DCP 4.0 is right now for my loop (And I am running it at like 70% speed due to noise







), can't wait for my D5 Vario with TOP to arrive in a couple of days!









I hope it is quieter while at same time providing better water flow!


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> After seeing pictures of people posting their water flow on the reservoir, I realize how weak my EK DCP 4.0 is right now for my loop (And I am running it at like 70% speed due to noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), can't wait for my D5 Vario with TOP to arrive in a couple of days!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it is quieter while at same time providing better water flow!


I can't see any flow whatsoever with my MCP350 (thought I had a 355 untill a couple of days ago xD). But it doesn't make any noise and my CPU runs cool so I'm not complaining


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PIPEBENDING TIME!!!
> The loop is in,just needs a a little tweaking here and there to get the lines right,but this is the layout.


Thats a effing great looking build. I can't wait for you to do the GPU's.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I can't see any flow whatsoever with my MCP350 (thought I had a 355 untill a couple of days ago xD). But it doesn't make any noise and my CPU runs cool so I'm not complaining


Cool temps FTW! I'm the same way. The loop flow in my folding rig is MUCH slower than in my main rig. Just watching the flow meters, you can see an obvious difference...but temps are excellent on both rigs, so I don't worry about the slow flow


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PIPEBENDING TIME!!!
> The loop is in,just needs a a little tweaking here and there to get the lines right,but this is the layout.


That just look sooooo amazing and clean -







- After your post I NEED go learn that.


----------



## Rickles

B Neg, did you end up painting the 360??? I like the badge look of the XSPC logo. The pipes are great and someday I would like to see you sponsored for a Super Mario Bros build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Thats a effing great looking build. I can't wait for you to do the GPU's.


Sadly, my sponsorship didnt stretch to GPU blocks,im open to offers but im not chasing anymore sponsors
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> That just look sooooo amazing and clean -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - After your post I NEED go learn that.


Bending guide in my sig Fonne.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> B Neg, did you end up painting the 360??? I like the badge look of the XSPC logo. The pipes are great and someday I would like to see you sponsored for a Super Mario Bros build.


I did paint the 360 in the end,a nice satin black and it does look better for it i think.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Cool temps FTW! I'm the same way. The loop flow in my folding rig is MUCH slower than in my main rig. Just watching the flow meters, you can see an obvious difference...but temps are excellent on both rigs, so I don't worry about the slow flow


I'm not upgrading pump due to the flow, mainly due to how noisy this EK DCP 4.0 is.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PIPEBENDING TIME!!!


Nice work B Neg! I did quite a bit of tubing bending like that when I worked in the oilfield. There's quite a learning curve when it comes to using the bender tool. If I remember right, those stainless tubing stalks were pretty pricey - are they still?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Nice work B Neg! I did quite a bit of tubing bending like that when I worked in the oilfield. There's quite a learning curve when it comes to using the bender tool. If I remember right, those stainless tubing stalks were pretty pricey - are they still?


If it was stainless i would still be doing them!!

This is Copper tube,in my sig there is a link to my pipebending 101,Fuganator kindly did some legwork and got a list of 12mm pipe stockists for the US.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Wow B, I remember when this build was just going to have an h100 in it! Only problem I can foresee is whether this kid will know how to properly maintain a custom loop, especially with copper piping. Isn't it harder to drain and disassemble than regular tubing?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Wow B, I remember when this build was just going to have an h100 in it! Only problem I can foresee is whether this kid will know how to properly maintain a custom loop, especially with copper piping. Isn't it harder to drain and disassemble than regular tubing?


You can just unscrew a fitting,i didnt put a drain in tho (dumb ass that im am)..The loop is maintenance free with the right fluid.
I have said i will do all the fluid changes already to the Dad or he can watch me do it and try for himself later.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can just unscrew a fitting,i didnt put a drain in tho (dumb ass that im am)..The loop is maintenance free with the right fluid.
> I have said i will do all the fluid changes already to the Dad or he can watch me do it and try for himself later.


That is a sweet build you have done







And talking about drain, just got 6 of these, a swedish company has priced them wrong and sells them for 4.4 dollars a peace







sorry for bad pic.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ugh I'm still waiting for my thermal pads so I can put my gtx690 back in my rig!
This will be the third week!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ugh I'm still waiting for my thermal pads so I can put my gtx690 back in my rig!
> This will be the third week!


What block???


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> I wish mine would look like this. Very clean


Thanks! You should see the back panel.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I agree with you captvizcenzo, If I could make my systems look like this. I would have to be richer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saying that I do have a few tickets in the $70 Million lotto for tonight


Don't need to be rich, just pick parts wisely. It's always a back and forth of making sure each part is both quality and can be in line with the rest of my aesthetic. A lot of it is just thinking on how to maximize space available, and then turning those mods into features, like the SSD's on the optical bay. It looks fancy, but it's $10 worth of sheet metal, DiNoc, and 3M mounting tape!

Thanks though.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> People love to give CSQ a hard time...but that looks really good!


When it first came out, I was thinking ***. But I really came around on it. In person, the frosted acrylic and the precisely machined designs look so high quality in comparison to the old EK design. I love it now!


----------



## jassilamba

Some CSQ lovin..........


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> That is a sweet build you have done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And talking about drain, just got 6 of these, a swedish company has priced them wrong and sells them for 4.4 dollars a peace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for bad pic.


Thats a heck of a deal.


----------



## sebar

Those CSQ blocks look great.


----------



## Michalius

Those do look quite smashing. Would kill to have those on a G1 Assassin 2 or Sniper 3.


----------



## lowfat

I dislike the frosted acrylic a lot. If it were clear I'd prolly even give CSQ a chance.


----------



## Michalius

It's one of those things where pictures just don't do it justice. The fit, finish, and feel is remarkable.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I dislike the frosted acrylic a lot. If it were clear I'd prolly even give CSQ a chance.


I will say that when I received my mobo block it did not look as impressive as it does now mounted on the mobo and in the case.

I personally would have preferred a full nickel block for my mobo but this is as good as it got.

And I would say that I did not like the EK GPU blocks for some reason, I ended up getting a heat killer for my GPU.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I dislike the frosted acrylic a lot. If it were clear I'd prolly even give CSQ a chance.


I agree. I'm also tired of lovers of csq "oh, here come the csq haters". We all have a choice and an opinion and if some of us don't like a product, so what?!?!?!?!? That's our taste. I don't like BP gpu blocks and I'm honest about it. I don't like the csq design, there! Some ppl despise dyes. I like running dyes and I don't go around pouting "here come the dye haters!"


----------



## Michalius

Who said that?

If people get up in arms about something extremely subjective as aesthetics, I don't think they're even worth acknowledging. That's a downward spiral there!

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and all that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Who said that?
> If people get up in arms about something extremely subjective as aesthetics, I don't think they're even worth acknowledging. That's a downward spiral there!
> Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and all that.


Everyone has an opinion,no need to be obnoxious about it.

The look of a product has as much relevancy as the performance,especially when the look is what this thread is about.....


----------



## Michalius

That's what I said. I was agreeing with Wermad


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> That's what I said. I was agreeing with Wermad


Apologies,i misunderstood your meaning.


----------



## morencyam

Aesthetics is purely personal preference. There are quite a few builds I have seen that have gotten praise for how good they look that I think look terrible and vise versa. But everyone is entitled to their own opinion. That's what makes forum communities, such as this one, great places. You get all kinds of input from so many different people all with different ideas. To each their own, as they say.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Aesthetics is purely personal preference. There are quite a few builds I have seen that have gotten praise for how good they look that I think look terrible and vise versa. But everyone is entitled to their own opinion. That's what makes forum communities, such as this one, great places. You get all kinds of input from so many different people all with different ideas. Too each their own, as they say.


Agreed.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PIPEBENDING TIME!!!
> The loop is in,just needs a a little tweaking here and there to get the lines right,but this is the layout.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that a dual bay res from XSPC with the D5 Vario Pump?


----------



## Fonne

*X2O 750 Dual Bayres/Pump (Black) V4*

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Is that a dual bay res from XSPC with the D5 Vario Pump?


Yes.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Some CSQ lovin..........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Those CSQ blocks look great.


Heck yea they do....very nice @jassilamba








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I agree. I'm also tired of lovers of csq "oh, here come the csq haters". We all have a choice and an opinion and if some of us don't like a product, so what?!?!?!?!? That's our taste. I don't like BP gpu blocks and I'm honest about it. I don't like the csq design, there! Some ppl despise dyes. I like running dyes and I don't go around pouting "here come the dye haters!"


----------



## NostraD

I hope I don't have to seperate you kids...


----------



## steelkevin

Quick question (maybe not...):

I've got enough rads to add my GPU to my loop (two 280mm rads, check my signature for more info on my loop) and I was wondering what would be the cheapest way to get my GPU wet.
I don't intend to go crazy on overclocking (actually, I wouldn't even mind not overclocking at all), I just want my 560 Ti to shut up.
I'm not looking for anything pretty or whatnot (although obviously if I have the choice between two solutions around the same price I'll pick the prettiest). I just want my GPU to be dead silent as my CPU has become.

I'm not going to keep this card, it has a "unique" (in a bad way) PCB and it doesn't really fulfill my needs. It'll probably be gone by Christmas.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> [...] I was wondering what would be the cheapest way to get my GPU *wet*.


Depends on how much you're looking to pay. I think it's currently $250/ounce.









On a serious note, the XSPC RayStorm GPU or EK VGA Supremacy would be good alternatives to look for since full coverage blocks can be a bit pricey.


----------



## morencyam

Since you plan on upgrading I would go with a universal block. I don't have any personal experience with them but I know they are widely used around these parts and still offer great cooling. Here are a few options. You would need to get some heatsinks for the mosfets and VRM too
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_971_240_587
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=29678
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_582&products_id=30793


----------



## hammerforged

@steelkevin

Universal GPU blocks with a VRM fan work well. Here a ghetto mod on my 7970 Matrix:


----------



## steelkevin

+Rep to all three of you.

But, I forgot to mention that I was talking about Universal blocks (as suggested). I thinking even cheaper than the Swiftech (I had a local offer for an MCW60 for only 20€, I would've tried to get it for 15€, but the 460/560 Ti mounting plate can't be found in France and to have one shipped from America would cost me 40€...) or EK ones. I wouldn't even consider the Raystorm since it's 10 to 15€ more expensive than the EKs.

That 7970 "ghetto mod" is hilarious but I'm not that desperate and would get either Zalman or AlphaCool heatsinks (or even both).

I've seen some 20€ blocks, are those any good ? I'm supposing they work or else they wouldn't sell at all but maybe they were designed for older GPUs and wouldn't work so well with the more recent ones. They're probably way more restrictive than the 50€ blocks too.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> +Rep to all three of you.
> But, I forgot to mention that I was talking about Universal blocks (as suggested). I thinking even cheaper than the Swiftech (I had a local offer for an MCW60 for only 20€, I would've tried to get it for 15€, but the 460/560 Ti mounting plate can't be found in France and to have one shipped from America would cost me 40€...) or EK ones. I wouldn't even consider the Raystorm since it's 10 to 15€ more expensive than the EKs.
> That 7970 "ghetto mod" is hilarious but I'm not that desperate and would get either Zalman or AlphaCool heatsinks (or even both).
> I've seen some 20€ blocks, are those any good ? I'm supposing they work or else they wouldn't sell at all but maybe they were designed for older GPUs and wouldn't work so well with the more recent ones. They're probably way more restrictive than the 50€ blocks too.


If you are gonna get rid of your 560 then just do that, and dont waste time and money on a GPU block. Some ear plugs might be better in the short term. Get the card you want and cool that sucker with a nice block.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> @steelkevin
> Universal GPU blocks with a VRM fan work well. Here a ghetto mod on my 7970 Matrix:


BEST USE OF TUBING EVER!!!

seriously, Universal blocks need some more love. like, some of those non-ref cards (like the few recent ASUS DCUII V2 cards or some of those Sapphire new cards) can only have universal blocks (since its highly unlikely that EK or someone would release a full cover for it). also, we need backplates even for universals!!! (e.g. a backplate for 7970 would work with universal)


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> If you are gonna get rid of your 560 then just do that, and dont waste time and money on a GPU block. Some ear plugs might be better in the short term. Get the card you want and cool that sucker with a nice block.


I've only got about 100€ right now and no income. I'll have an extra 150/200€ for Christmas. I'll sell my 560 Ti 60-80€ (they usually go for 100+ €). So that'll be a total of 310€. I'll probably get a 7870 and an EK CSQ full cover plexi bloc (but I think they look horrible). I don't really want to do that actually xD. So no, I won't. I'll wait and see what EK are going to make for those who don't like CSQ and the cloudy plexi. I might even wait for the 8*** and GTX 7** cards.

No matter what I still want to add my current GPU to the loop asap.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> +Rep to all three of you.
> But, I forgot to mention that I was talking about Universal blocks (as suggested). I thinking even cheaper than the Swiftech (I had a local offer for an MCW60 for only 20€, I would've tried to get it for 15€, but the 460/560 Ti mounting plate can't be found in France and to have one shipped from America would cost me 40€...) or EK ones. I wouldn't even consider the Raystorm since it's 10 to 15€ more expensive than the EKs.
> That 7970 *"ghetto mod"* is hilarious but I'm not that desperate and would get either Zalman or AlphaCool heatsinks (or even both).
> I've seen some 20€ blocks, are those any good ? I'm supposing they work or else they wouldn't sell at all but maybe they were designed for older GPUs and wouldn't work so well with the more recent ones. They're probably way more restrictive than the 50€ blocks too.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I've only got about 100€ right now and no income. I'll have an extra 150/200€ for Christmas. I'll sell my 560 Ti 60-80€ (they usually go for 100+ €). So that'll be a total of 310€. I'll probably get a 7870 and an EK CSQ full cover plexi bloc (but I think they look horrible). I don't really want to do that actually xD. So no, I won't. I'll wait and see what EK are going to make for those who don't like CSQ and the cloudy plexi. I might even wait for the 8*** and GTX 7** cards.
> No matter what I still want to add my current GPU to the loop asap.


Even I'm not a fan of the CSQ on the GPU cards, but if you really want to add it to the loop then the universal block sounds like the right way.

I went with the Heatkiller "Hole" edition for my block:


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> BEST USE OF TUBING EVER!!!
> seriously, Universal blocks need some more love. like, some of those non-ref cards (like the few recent ASUS DCUII V2 cards or some of those Sapphire new cards) can only have universal blocks (since its highly unlikely that EK or someone would release a full cover for it). also, we need backplates even for universals!!! (e.g. a backplate for 7970 would work with universal)


DWood here on OCN can make you a backplate for any card you have - inexpensive too.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Even I'm not a fan of the CSQ on the GPU cards, but if you really want to add it to the loop then the universal block sounds like the right way.
> I went with the Heatkiller "Hole" edition for my block:











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *freitz*
Click to expand...

lol


----------



## Atham

What full cover GPU block would you recommend for the GTX 670 Gigabyte Windforce 3X edition? I have seen that some blocks were obstructing the 6 pin power connector.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> DWood here on OCN can make you a backplate for any card you have - inexpensive too.


I always forget about them. from what i have seen on many builds they are kick-ass (its okay to say ass if i talk about donkeys, so *donkey sound*)

any (flashing) linky?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> What block???


evga hydrocopper block.

Ugh so pissed, so after my rig sitting for 3weeks, i finally get the thermal pads i been waiting on, throw my 690 back in my rig, turn it on and right away notice the water in my rez is all merky from the plastizer , which isnt what got me mad, from the tube sitting on my rv03 window it has left a residue i cant get off, i tried water, glass cleaner, etc and doesnt seem to even remove a little bit


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes.


I have that pump res combo, and I know you are bending pipe so it is more involved, but I found that by adding a tube res it made it a billion times easier to fill and bleed the loop.

Simply remove one of the caps on the tube res so air in the loop has someplace to get out easily and it fills SOOOOO much quicker. Almost tooo fast as I did have water rise up out of the tube res







almost a disaster









I also put a drain line on the tube res as well.

Just food for thought as it would be easier, at least I think, then removing a fitting, and I know you would use your magic to make it look amazing.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> I always forget about them. from what i have seen on many builds they are kick-ass (its okay to say ass if i talk about donkeys, so *donkey sound*)
> any (flashing) linky?


I thought about that (his work is really awesome) but the heatkiller block for the 690 is seriously heavy and wanted to make sure that I get the plate that could support the weight. Good thing my build is a reverse ATX in switch 810 so the block gets more attention.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> What full cover GPU block would you recommend for the GTX 670 Gigabyte Windforce 3X edition? I have seen that some blocks were obstructing the 6 pin power connector.


I went with these...



Watercool pr0n,nothing finer.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I went with these...
> 
> Watercool pr0n,nothing finer.


Why no bridge?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I went with these...
> 
> Watercool pr0n,nothing finer.


Agreed


----------



## Michalius

Those Heatkiller blocks are the nicest looking around. Can't want to do a themed build to fit them in. The watercool/heatkiller rads to go along with them would look too awesome.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I thought about that (his work is really awesome) but the heatkiller block for the 690 is seriously heavy and wanted to make sure that I get the plate that could support the weight. Good thing my build is a reverse ATX in switch 810 so the block gets more attention.


i never doubted the full cover's backplate. i was talking about bp for universal blocks and for GPUs in general.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i never doubted the full cover's backplate. i was talking about bp for universal blocks and for GPUs in general.


Agreed no doubt.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly, my sponsorship didnt stretch to GPU blocks,im open to offers but im not chasing anymore sponsors
> Bending guide in my sig Fonne.
> I did paint the 360 in the end,a nice satin black and it does look better for it i think.


Thanks, is reading it







- The picture posted here, is that 10mm stainless, or nickel plated cobber ?

- Is trying to find the bender that you use here in EU at a decent price, no luck yet ...

http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=Rothenberger&_sacat=0&_odkw=Rothenberger+tube&_osacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why no bridge?


I dont really like them if im honest,i have had bridges before and they just look bulky to me.
One of those things that look good in a picture but look odd in the flesh


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Those Heatkiller blocks are the nicest looking around. Can't want to do a themed build to fit them in. The watercool/heatkiller rads to go along with them would look too awesome.


That would be really cool.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont really like them if im honest,i have had bridges before and they just look bulky to me.
> One of those things that look good in a picture but look odd in the flesh


Plus those blocks were made to be shown off and not have a bridge obstructing the view..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont really like them if im honest,i have had bridges before and they just look bulky to me.
> One of those things that look good in a picture but look odd in the flesh


That's interesting! the EK bridge is far more bulkier and I found the Hk a bit too slim which made it look awkward with large fittings (1/2x3/4). I wouldn't hesitate using bridges since they provide a lot of structural rigidity for heavy gpu blocks. When there's no bridge, I like using D-plugs







.

@ jassilamba. Please use the "edit" button (looks like a pencil) to avoid double posting


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> That is a sweet build you have done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And talking about drain, just got 6 of these, a swedish company has priced them wrong and sells them for 4.4 dollars a peace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for bad pic.


What company?







The only one that have bitspower as far as i know is liontech, was it them? Please help a fellow swede.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Still no tips on removing the plasticizer off the window of my side panel on my case


----------



## Michalius

Ketchup, seriously.

If that leaves marks, buff it out with that acrylic polish stuff. Danger Den sells it iirc.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There's always the option of building your own manual PWM controller, and adding a switch to allow mobo or manual control of the pump speed.
> This is my version, it runs triple 35Xs with no problem. I set the fan profile to be more agressive so it ramps up quicker when in mobo control which also lets it run slower than I have the manual minimum set at, but it holds the temps OK.
> Darlene
> I actually made 2 of them, one to install in my rig, and one for a reference and to have for testing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, I am so doing that sometime.
Click to expand...

She certainly isn't a dude, she's a Diva!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> She certainly isn't a dude, she's a Diva!


Dudette?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Ketchup, seriously.
> If that leaves marks, buff it out with that acrylic polish stuff. Danger Den sells it iirc.


tried ketchup and didnt work out at all..


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> tried ketchup and didnt work out at all..


Plastix polish at auto stores (used to polish headlight lens). Do you think that might work. What about those headlight restoration kits???


----------



## Willi

just wondering if it's possible to use these fittings with copper piping:
enzotech fittings
these are for 3/8" id and 1/2" od tubing, don't know if I can find any pipings with that measurement.
The idea is to use black fittings with black powdercoated copper tubing. Any suggestions?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> just wondering if it's possible to use these fittings with copper piping:
> enzotech fittings
> these are for 3/8" id and 1/2" od tubing, don't know if I can find any pipings with that measurement.
> The idea is to use black fittings with black powdercoated copper tubing. Any suggestions?


Those are for normal tubing. You would have to go with a push fitting ( I dont know the exact name of them of hand ) to use copper pipe. Ill try and find a link with the fittings as a example.

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html Heres a example of what you would need.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> just wondering if it's possible to use these fittings with copper piping:
> enzotech fittings
> these are for 3/8" id and 1/2" od tubing, don't know if I can find any pipings with that measurement.
> The idea is to use black fittings with black powdercoated copper tubing. Any suggestions?


No. You want to use push fittings with copper pipe. An example would be these with 12mm OD copper pipe.








by Nyghtryder_9


----------



## Hooded

Here some porn for all you geeks















Hope you all found this porn to your liking 

Check out my rig in sig for more details.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Here some porn for all you geeks
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108632/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108633/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108634/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1106452/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1106446/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108636/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108637/
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you all found this porn to your liking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my rig in sig for more details.


Very Nice! All the XSPC matching blocks look great! Ice Dragon fluid, yes? Nice utilization of purple lighting. Good work.


----------



## Hooded

Ice Dragon Yes


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Some CSQ lovin..........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip


Do they have, by chance, the same for the AMD one? (Crosshair V Formula/-Z) *prays*


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Do they have, by chance, the same for the AMD one? (Crosshair V Formula/-Z) *prays*


we amd users dont get much attention in the watercooling market tarnix









glad to see koolance at least came out with a new amd block - i feel like it's been quite a while for new amd blocks.

oh and wermad..lovin' the avatar









EDIT: oh look what i found









http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supreme-ltx-amd-nickel-csq.html


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ugh those circles on the ek blocks are so ugly, so happy I won't be needing any blocks till Maxwell and 2nd Gen Haswell by then hopefully ek will have a decent design, otherwise there going to loss there business to the other w/c company's who been making amazing products!


----------



## Explosivegamer

Here is my second water cooling build I did after getting bit by the bug. My first project got turned into my server. This thing in a beast and runs like a champ. Sleeving the cables was quite a bit of work but I was happy with the results.

Heres some specs

Caselabs TH10 airbrushed

EVGA x79 classified EK blocks
3960x 4.9ghz
Corsair 16gb 2133
EVGA 680 classified 1420/6800 SLI
Corsair AX1200

Dual Swiftech pumps in a EK dual pump housing
SR-1 480 rads with GT-AP15 in push/pull x2
all other fans are Pyoba 1500rpm
Koolance CPU-370I block
EVGA Hydrocopper blocks
EK chipset blocks
Primochill fluid with red UV dye

Intel 510 SSD 240gb x2 in raid 0
2tb WD black










































































Explosivegamer


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sadly I cannot run those on the VRMs' of my 6870s' without *modifications*. So I'll have to either separate the heat sinks from their covers and use those or mod the covers to fit over whichever universal block I'm able to go with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wish that SOMEBODY in the States would carry these Universals to give me more options.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't that the name of the game?
Click to expand...

Is an isn't at the same time. The space between my caps and vrms on the 6870 is very narrow...



If the block itself is wider than 5-7mm, no way I can mod it to make it work.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PIPEBENDING TIME!!!
> 
> The loop is in,just needs a a little tweaking here and there to get the lines right,but this is the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah I was gonna ask where the drain was. Looks awesome though B!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can just unscrew a fitting,i didnt put a drain in tho (dumb ass that im am)..The loop is maintenance free with the right fluid.
> I have said i will do all the fluid changes already to the Dad or he can watch me do it and try for himself later.
> 
> 
> 
> That is a sweet build you have done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And talking about drain, just got 6 of these, a swedish company has priced them wrong and sells them for 4.4 dollars a peace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for bad pic.
Click to expand...

I wish I could find a Black one of those for about that price. $20 for a ball valve is a little much when you stop to consider that shipping will be a minimum of $5 no matter where you buy from.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> That is a sweet build you have done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And talking about drain, just got 6 of these, a swedish company has priced them wrong and sells them for 4.4 dollars a peace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for bad pic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a heck of a deal *STEAL!* .
Click to expand...

Fixed.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ugh those circles on the ek blocks are so ugly, so happy I won't be needing any blocks till Maxwell and 2nd Gen Haswell by then hopefully ek will have a decent design, otherwise there going to loss there business to the other w/c company's who been making amazing products!


Tiborrr says they have something in the works for us guys that ain't down with the CSQ design. Remains to be seen but I hope it's soon.









~Ceadder


----------



## Nuzart

HEY GUYS!

Have a phone camera picture!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Here some porn for all you geeks
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108632/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108633/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108634/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1106452/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1106446/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108636/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108637/
> 
> 
> Hope you all found this porn to your liking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my rig in sig for more details.


Nice take to water cool your tri-channel doms








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ugh those circles on the ek blocks are so ugly, so happy I won't be needing any blocks till Maxwell and 2nd Gen Haswell by then hopefully ek will have a decent design, otherwise there going to loss there business to the other w/c company's who been making amazing products!


The EK rep has hinted at a possibility of not having them but nothing official announced yet


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ugh those circles on the ek blocks are so ugly, so happy I won't be needing any blocks till Maxwell and 2nd Gen Haswell by then hopefully ek will have a decent design, otherwise there going to loss there business to the other w/c company's who been making amazing products!


I believe the reason why the EK rep waited so long to comment on hints to changes in design is because it would have killed the sales of their unpopular design that everyone would have waited for the older accepted design.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ugh those circles on the ek blocks are so ugly, so happy I won't be needing any blocks till Maxwell and 2nd Gen Haswell by then hopefully ek will have a decent design, otherwise there going to loss there business to the other w/c company's who been making amazing products!
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the reason why the EK rep waited so long to comment on hints to changes in design is because it would have killed the sales of their unpopular design that everyone would have waited for the older accepted design.
Click to expand...

I would not call it "unpopular". They are still selling loads of them.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Sorry to go off topic here but thought I might include a few build photos:











Finally did a build log and added it to my signature. Unfortunately me being an idiot, I lost all my in progress photos so I'll have to redo them when I tear it apart.

And yes I know my wiring is horrid. I plan to order sleeve in the next few weeks and some Coldzero TJ07 parts and make it all nice and pretty.


----------



## mrrockwell

Heres my wannabe water cooling rig. I tought I might post this for those who were wondering if 360 rad would fit in Fractal Design define mini. It would be a tight fit but I'm sure EK-CoolStream RAD XT 360 be looking great in this matx case.


----------



## Fuganater

You guys got us back on topic
















This is a photo gallery after all... not a discussion place.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Nah it's both. Club and picture gallery. We just need to insure it's balanced.


----------



## LiquidHaus

had fun with ms paint


----------



## kcuestag

Look what just arrived:



I will drain the loop and try it out in an hour or two!























PS: To make sure, the middle hole is inlet and top is outlet, so the silver screw I installed is correct in that hole right?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Look what just arrived:
> 
> I will drain the loop and try it out in an hour or two!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: To make sure, the middle hole is inlet and top is outlet, so the silver screw I installed is correct in that hole right?


Yes.


----------



## kcuestag

Cool, thanks, can't wait to see what this beast is cappable of compared to my current EK DCP 4.0.


----------



## Fuganater

They are loud at first but then dead silent once the air is gone.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Look what just arrived:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will drain the loop and try it out in an hour or two!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: To make sure, the middle hole is inlet and top is outlet, so the silver screw I installed is correct in that hole right?


Arriva!!!









Very kewl kcuestag.









~Ceadder


----------



## Willi

Well, since the enzotech fittings wont fit, I think I'll go with these
Koolance fittings
I can only order from PPC's since they are the only ones that don't charge absurd ammounts for shipping to my country.
If you guys know of anyone that will ship to brazil and won't charge the souls of innocent children for shipping, please let me know.


----------



## Fonne

What are the best looking push-in fittings ? - After seeing the cobber piping from B Negative (You cost me money







), I just need to get that









Has been reading the guide here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101

And the fittings that is used:

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html

But dont really like how they look .... I just love the look from the new EK fittings, but is there anything like that when I planning to use 10mm OD cobber pipe ?

http://www.ekwb.com/news/280/19/EKWB-introduces-new-line-of-fitting-connectors/

Regards Fonne


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Sorry to go off topic here but thought I might include a few build photos:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally did a build log and added it to my signature. Unfortunately me being an idiot, I lost all my in progress photos so I'll have to redo them when I tear it apart.
> And yes I know my wiring is horrid. I plan to order sleeve in the next few weeks and some Coldzero TJ07 parts and make it all nice and pretty.


Very nice









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You guys got us back on topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a photo gallery after all... not a discussion place.


I was gonna say the same....mOar pictures!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> What are the best looking push-in fittings ? - After seeing the cobber piping from B Negative (You cost me money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I just need to get that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has been reading the guide here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101
> And the fittings that is used:
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html
> But dont really like how they look .... I just love the look from the new EK fittings, but is there anything like that when I planning to use 10mm OD cobber pipe ?
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/280/19/EKWB-introduces-new-line-of-fitting-connectors/
> Regards Fonne


You can use these, Bitspower Sli fitting....



They dont have a lock ring tho and they are for 12mm tube.


----------



## Fonne

They look really nice, but dont know if I dare to run with no lock ring on hard pipes :-/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> They look really nice, but dont know if I dare to run with no lock ring on hard pipes :-/


Most run them with no issue but i know that if they pop,it will be sudden and fatal. I would rather not trash £5550 of rig myself...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Sorry to go off topic here but thought I might include a few build photos:
> 
> Finally did a build log and added it to my signature. Unfortunately me being an idiot, I lost all my in progress photos so I'll have to redo them when I tear it apart.
> And yes I know my wiring is horrid. I plan to order sleeve in the next few weeks and some Coldzero TJ07 parts and make it all nice and pretty.


That is one sick coolant color!









I am so jealous with you guys who can get all those water cooling stuff easily, I've been waiting for my GPU block and the bridge from EK for almost 2 weeks now. While the new pump I've to wait for another week from PPCS. Living in Asia is just pain full for water cooling addict like me besides, its so expensive here! can be like 20-40% more expensive than the normal price


----------



## kcuestag

Here you go, D5 installed:





Running it at full speed (Setting 5) and even then it is so damn quiet, I can't hear it at all! This thing is a beast!


----------



## PCModderMike

Awesome job! My fav pump so far


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Heres my wannabe water cooling rig. I tought I might post this for those who were wondering if 360 rad would fit in Fractal Design define mini. It would be a tight fit but I'm sure EK-CoolStream RAD XT 360 be looking great in this matx case.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great dude! I'm a huge fan of that case I used to own it! My only wish is that they offset the top exhaust fan like they did on the arc midi. CUrious why you didn't put the rad on the bottom 2 fan slots and leave the dual drive bays in? That's the exact setup I had with mine


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here you go, D5 installed:
> 
> 
> Running it at full speed (Setting 5) and even then it is so damn quiet, I can't hear it at all! This thing is a beast!


This is why i recommend them to everybody,Cool,quiet and flows plenty water....


----------



## bundymania




----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


LOL if that is real it's GREAT. If it is photo shopped it is still great!


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Looks great dude! I'm a huge fan of that case I used to own it! My only wish is that they offset the top exhaust fan like they did on the arc midi. CUrious why you didn't put the rad on the bottom 2 fan slots and leave the dual drive bays in? That's the exact setup I had with mine


Had that setup for a while but was wondering would it fit 360 in the front and got carried away







And yes offset fans + top cover would be great.


----------



## steelkevin

Is there any good guide for draining. I'd like to add a drain line or whatever most people add to easily drain their loop but I can't seem to find anything on how to do so, where to put it and a video showing how to drain with a drain line (valve or line, I have no idea what people usually use).


----------



## PCModderMike

Anyone know the discount code for FCPU off the top of their heads? I thought it was pcapax, not working for me....

EDIT: Nevermind, it's pcap*E*x....that works.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Had that setup for a while but was wondering would it fit 360 in the front and got carried away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes offset fans + top cover would be great.


Since you removed the rivets for the 5.25" drive bays may I make a suggestion that I think would be pretty neat-o. If you completely removed the front panel from the chassis itself (not just the faceplate), turned it upside down, re popped it back in there with rivets and had your drive bays at the bottom of the case. I have always wanted to see that as it would like nice and kind of match up with the PSU at the bottom.

I made a thread asking why manu's never put the optical drive bays at the bottom but apparently it turns out because it's impractical to reach all the way down there when your PC is on the floor. I had made the silly assumption that most sit atop a desk.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Anyone know the discount code for FCPU off the top of their heads? I thought it was pcapax, not working for me....


try OCN


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Anyone know the discount code for FCPU off the top of their heads? I thought it was pcapax, not working for me....


I thought it was just "OCN".


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> try OCN


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I thought it was just "OCN".


See edit above


----------



## NewHighScore

How much is the discount for "pcapEx"? I think the OCN one is only 5%.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> How much is the discount for "pcapEx"? I think the OCN one is only 5%.


The "E" doesn't have to be capitalized like that, I was just emphasizing it because I was putting an "A" originally. But yea it's only 5% too. But thanks for that, easier to remember.


----------



## NewHighScore

I just copy pasted that part







.

Any teasers of what you got comin in that order? Is this for your switch 810 revision?


----------



## jassilamba

Thought would share some pics of my build so far - 4 rads (well technically 3), Reverse ATX on a switch 810. First time build so please do not crucify me









Will take some more pics tonight as I have shortened the tubbing a bit more, and have the mobo block mounted and having the loop going through leak testing.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here you go, D5 installed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running it at full speed (Setting 5) and even then it is so damn quiet, I can't hear it at all! This thing is a beast!


I have the same, it's very quiet I agree!


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Ice Dragon Yes


Can I ask, what lightning are you using for your rig?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Is there any good guide for draining. I'd like to add a drain line or whatever most people add to easily drain their loop but I can't seem to find anything on how to do so, where to put it and a video showing how to drain with a drain line (valve or line, I have no idea what people usually use).


General rule of thumb is to install the drain line at the lowest point of the loop. I have mine right after my pump and just used a Bitspower T-Block with about a foot of tubing and a bard fitting and threaded plug on the end. All I have to do is unscrew the plug and the water flows right out. I have to tip the case around a little to get all the water out but it works very well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I have the same, it's very quiet I agree!


I first built my loop with a D5, switched to dual mcp350's and didn't like how loud they were so unplugged one but left it in the loop. Then last time I cleaned, I switched back to the single D5 and was amazed at how much quieter it was than even a single mcp350. So now I have two mcp350's and a dual serial pump top just sitting collecting dust


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Can I ask, what lightning are you using for your rig?


I have

4 - 3mm blue led in Raystorm block

2 - 3mm blue led in each Dominator Ram block

2 - 3mm blue led in my EK-FC6970 V2 GPU block

2 - 5mm blue led in rear of my Reservoir

1 - 12" led tube light across the front of my top 240 rad pointing down onto the main block area. This really lights up the tubes UV effect.

2 - 12" Blue Cold Cathodes behind my dragon to light it upright.

The 12" led and the two cold cathodes are also switched, so I can turn them on and off.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I just copy pasted that part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Any teasers of what you got comin in that order? Is this for your switch 810 revision?


Teaser eh?








*CLICKY TEASER*


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Teaser eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *CLICKY TEASER*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


props for being the first American that knows how to properly use eh?









You lucky devil I want a 680 lightning!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> props for being the first American that knows how to properly use eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You lucky devil I want a 680 lightning!


Haha I try








And thanks!


----------



## Michalius

Some shots after a successful boot!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Some shots after a successful boot!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really Well Done, Bravo.....


----------



## NewHighScore

Yes it looks great Michalius! I've always liked the csq design but you really bring it to life!


----------



## TSXmike

^^ stellar job!


----------



## sebar

Very nice build.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Some shots after a successful boot!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I haven't really seen a build yet where I like those Monsoon fittings, but this right here, you've done a great job with it. Very nice


----------



## Michalius

Thank you!

Really, the compliments should go to the OCN community which has given me the tools and knowledge to even build it. It seems like it was only a year ago that I bought my first XSPC Rasa Kit. Actually, that was indeed a year ago.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Thank you!
> Really, the compliments should go to the OCN community which has given me the tools and knowledge to even build it. It seems like it was only a year ago that I bought my first XSPC Rasa Kit. Actually, that was indeed a year ago.


Nicely done, I can relate to how the OCN community gave me the inspiration too.

Really nice and clean build between. Love it.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Some shots after a successful boot!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Looks great except for those nasty huge monsoon fittings...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Looks great except for those nasty huge monsoon fittings...


Did you really have to say it like that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Did you really have to say it like that?


He has a point,they are not pretty.....


----------



## Michalius

Yeah, no offense taken! I kind of agree with him too.


----------



## Rickles

meh, I enjoy my monsoons. If nothing else they are different.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Yeah, no offense taken! I kind of agree with him too.










Then why use them? lol
I said I don't really like them myself, so I understand his opinion. But to just be so blatantly rude....ahh this OCN, flame on right.


----------



## Michalius

Well, I really like the contrast they provide. I wish they were a little less bulky is all. Not that I think they're ugly, it's just that I see where he is coming from.


----------



## NewHighScore

I agree the monsoon angles are quite chunky. I have a few but they are well hidden. To be honest I think they just stand out a lot more in this build because of the frosty csq contrast to the black and white monsoon fitting. I didn't even notice it until mentioned though tbh.

Also the layout of that motherboard doesn't help. If it had normal cpu placement the fitting could be angled in a way it would not be so intrusive. Did you not consider using a plain ol regular monsoon fittings on the bridge? It seems like it would still fit nicely.

just to be clear im not bashing your build at all. I think it looks really good but after it is mentioned it is very noticable and seems like it could be improved. Just a little constructive crit.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love my BP fittings. Don't love the faulty O-rings...

Actually I think its about time to tear down my loop this weekend and start over. Haven't been at all happy with my coolant color tbh and my EK blocks have stained beyond where the coolant even runs (not sure how that happens???). I will flush them thoroughly with my flush loop but should I add some vinegar to see if that helps with the staining?


----------



## croseiv

Here's my set-up. It's a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme cooler. Honestly, it's a great closed loop system.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love my BP fittings. Don't love the faulty O-rings...
> Actually I think its about time to tear down my loop this weekend and start over. Haven't been at all happy with my coolant color tbh and my EK blocks have stained beyond where the coolant even runs (not sure how that happens???). I will flush them thoroughly with my flush loop but should I add some vinegar to see if that helps with the staining?


Help to take the stains off, or help in preventing them??


----------



## Jorvin

webhallen har dem 29kr styck tog typ tre veckor att få dem men kan ju var värt väntan


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> webhallen har dem 29kr styck tog typ tre veckor att få dem men kan ju var värt väntan


umm... english please?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> webhallen har dem 29kr styck tog typ tre veckor att få dem men kan ju var värt väntan


Translated: eBay has them 29kr each took like three weeks to get them, but can of course was worth the wait


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> What company?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only one that have bitspower as far as i know is liontech, was it them? Please help a fellow swede.


webhallen har dem 29kr styck tog typ tre veckor att få dem men kan ju var värt väntan


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Help to take the stains off, or help in preventing them??


Taking the stains off. Not a huge deal because I'm going with red again but I would like to clean them if I can (without opening them up that is)...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Thank you!
> Really, the compliments should go to the OCN community which has given me the tools and knowledge to even build it. It seems like it was only a year ago that I bought my first XSPC Rasa Kit. Actually, that was indeed a year ago.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Nicely done, I can relate to how the OCN community gave me the inspiration too.
> Really nice and clean build between. Love it.


Ya if it wasn't for OCN I would have never watercooled my pc's, I've learned alot, and it definitely shows from my first build to my second lol.

I got to say tho people are looking with the newer highend cards, I started when the top cards where the 5970 and 480s, and aircooling was not cutting it runningtwo 5970s, I could only imagine the people who popped there 2 or 3 gtx 480s in there system for the first time lol, they must of been lime did I heaters or video cards? Lol


----------



## Michalius

Posted up my build on CooledPC for the competition. Would love some votes!


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Some shots after a successful boot!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG A
> 
> 
> LT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1109237/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


Never liked the csq design but that looks sweet


----------



## wermad

wow, Monsoon *were* the darlings of water cooling fittings, ? Well, looks like it was just a passing fad.....


----------



## Michalius

Love the comp fittings still!

Honestly, I'm not huge on anyone's angle adapters at the moment. Seems like the choices are too plain, or too bulky.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> wow, Monsoon *were* the darlings of water cooling fittings, ? Well, looks like it was just a passing fad.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Love the comp fittings still!
> Honestly, I'm not huge on anyone's angle adapters at the moment. Seems like the choices are too plain, or too bulky.


I really like the standard Monsoon fittings. I just hate their angled adapters. That goes for the Enzotech angled fittings and adapters as well. The only angled fittings and adapters I really like are BP and EK. They just look more sleek than the Monsoon and Enzotech style of angles


----------



## Rognin

I have a thing for the swiftech compression fittings. I am over with knurled compressions, I must of shed more skin on my hands during the building of three rigs than I have my whole entire life. I also don't like the look of Moonsoon's, the gaping holes just throw me off...


----------



## Fuganater

Got some goodies in


----------



## phillyd

I _still_ love the look of monsoons! and it honestly has nothing to do with the fact that they sponsor me. in fact, if i didnt like them, I wouldnt ask for them to sponsor me again.


----------



## lowfat

My Tecnofront has been sitting in my closet untouched for the longest time.


----------



## wermad

I see that the larger size fittings would make the angle fitting/adapter look more fugly. When you use a smaller fitting size (ie 3/8x1/2) it blends in quite nicely with the body of the adapter/fitting. Once you go big, like 1/2x3/4, it looks odd tbh. I really don't like the BP "snake" rotary fittings: excessive in every manner especially price.

I love the Alphacool 90°:


----------



## jellybeans69

Need some thoughts on tubing

Tygon R3400/R3603
vs
Clearflex R60
vs
PrimochillPro
vs
Masterkleer UV tubing

Any pointers would help, i'd love to get fesser tubing but seems like aquatunning.de doesn't have them


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Need some thoughts on tubing
> Tygon R3400/R3603
> vs
> Clearflex R60
> vs
> PrimochillPro
> vs
> Masterkleer UV tubing
> Any pointers would help, i'd love to get fesser tubing but seems like aquatunning.de doesn't have them


i have no issues running Primochill colored tube. Before the plasticizing lynch mob moves in, i would cross it off your list to avoid them









Sorry, not much help but its a start


----------



## Michalius

I was running some Primochill white for a long while. Not a bit of plasticizer when I disassembled my loop after 6 months of use. Last batch of clear, however...

I hear the Masterkleer is good.


----------



## jassilamba

I'm using primochill in white, just got it a week ago so will see how it looks after a while. I'm not using any dyes to begin with, just distilled water with biocide.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Need some thoughts on tubing
> Tygon R3400/R3603
> vs
> Clearflex R60
> vs
> PrimochillPro
> vs
> Masterkleer UV tubing
> Any pointers would help, i'd love to get fesser tubing but seems like aquatunning.de doesn't have them


i have used Clearflex 60 for almost a year with absolutely no problem, and only heard good of them.
running ek coolant


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Need some thoughts on tubing
> Tygon R3400/R3603
> vs
> Clearflex R60
> vs
> PrimochillPro
> vs
> Masterkleer UV tubing
> Any pointers would help, i'd love to get fesser tubing but seems like aquatunning.de doesn't have them


Too bad Durelene isn't available to you (assuming - not listed) - that aside I would go with Masterkleer. I haven't heard any complaints from the plasticizer bunch with that one!


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> I have
> 4 - 3mm blue led in Raystorm block
> 2 - 3mm blue led in each Dominator Ram block
> 2 - 3mm blue led in my EK-FC6970 V2 GPU block
> 2 - 5mm blue led in rear of my Reservoir
> 1 - 12" led tube light across the front of my top 240 rad pointing down onto the main block area. This really lights up the tubes UV effect.
> 2 - 12" Blue Cold Cathodes behind my dragon to light it upright.
> 
> The 12" led and the two cold cathodes are also switched, so I can turn them on and off.


The raystorm block has stock blue LEDs, right?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> The raystorm block has stock blue LEDs, right?


Yes, it comes with two blue led's.


----------



## Fonne

If I got a Laing DDC 10 Watt, will the D5 be better on both noise and power ?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> If I got a Laing DDC 10 Watt, will the D5 be better on both noise and power ?


Very much so.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Need some thoughts on tubing
> Tygon R3400/R3603
> vs
> Clearflex R60
> vs
> PrimochillPro
> vs
> Masterkleer UV tubing
> Any pointers would help, i'd love to get fesser tubing but seems like aquatunning.de doesn't have them


i've got the feser white/uv-blue tubing and have not
had any issues.. i like it so much using it for new build.
i know Dazmode has it but not sure
if you want to pay shipping all the way to Germany.
(i'm guessing by the .de at tthe end of website you are
from germany..sorry if i'm wrong)..


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Too bad Durelene isn't available to you (assuming - not listed) - that aside I would go with Masterkleer. I haven't heard any complaints from the plasticizer bunch with that one!


oh Masterkleer has plasticizer, its stain on the window of my case and the water is no long fully clear!


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Is there any good guide for draining. I'd like to add a drain line or whatever most people add to easily drain their loop but I can't seem to find anything on how to do so, where to put it and a video showing how to drain with a drain line (valve or line, I have no idea what people usually use).


i'm actually starting to look at this topic with my new build.
adding a fill port to the top and a ball valve in the
bottom for a drain port..i will try to keep a log (i tend to finish what i start
in one foul swoop so sometimes making a log doesn't
come into play with me but i'll try for this...and the 3"
top i'm adding to my case i'm making alog for also).
but i'lll try to keep you updated as it goes..
same thing here though..couldn't find much on it
so i'm just making measurements and ordering
the parts i think i need..usually it works out for me..
usually you want to place the drain port on the very
bottom below everything and possibly somewhere
where you can utilize the pump for as long as possible
then rely on gravity for the rest..


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Here some porn for all you geeks
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108632/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108633/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1108634/


That is INSANELY SMEXY... Good job.


----------



## wermad

^^^ Use the spoiler to hide all but one pic bud









How's your loop so far btw?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> If I got a Laing DDC 10 Watt, will the D5 be better on both noise and power ?


You should install the diyinhk Sanyo PCB. It will be much quieter

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/16/diyinhk-ddc-pump-sanyo-pcb-replacement-mod/


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Some shots after a successful boot!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good god this build is so pleasing to my eyes... SPECTACULAR







One of these shots will definitely be going in my list to print and frame


----------



## iCrap

Does anyone know where i can get the DIYINHK modded PCB for the MCP350?


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> The raystorm block has stock blue LEDs, right?


Yes comes with 2 I grabbed a couple more


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That is INSANELY SMEXY... Good job.


Thanks


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Does anyone know where i can get the DIYINHK modded PCB for the MCP350?


Nothing to do with your question, but your signature... I agree with Razer sucking









AND that quote, is kinda stupid. Being an multinational forum, differences in the English language shouldn't have anything to do with someone's spelling. Colour/Color, Mum/Mom, the only thing I would/could argue is sentence structure. "Couldn't care less" vs "Could care less", but I wont get into that.

/rant
/pointless post


----------



## kyismaster

looking to start out cheap, but I don't want a closed loop, suggestions?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> looking to start out cheap, but I don't want a closed loop, suggestions?


XSPC Raza.

Cooler Master has a new Cooling loop in the works that can either be an AIO unit in 120, 240 or you can buy the top and add your own gear to it as well.

But Raza is generally the accepted kit. I used to recommed the EK kits cause those were pretty reasonable considering the cost of components separately but not since they went to the CSQ design.

Swiftech has a pretty reasonable setup too that you can buy as an AIO but it can be added to if you were of a mind to do that.

It's getting easier and easier to build your first loop these days and the cost is coming down the more options there are out there now.









Heck if you know where to look you can get some good deals on new or slightly used parts as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> XSPC Raza.
> Cooler Master has a new Cooling loop in the works that can either be an AIO unit in 120, 240 or you can buy the top and add your own gear to it as well.
> But Raza is generally the accepted kit. I used to recommed the EK kits cause those were pretty reasonable considering the cost of components separately but not since they went to the CSQ design.
> Swiftech has a pretty reasonable setup too that you can buy as an AIO but it can be added to if you were of a mind to do that.
> It's getting easier and easier to build your first loop these days and the cost is coming down the more options there are out there now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heck if you know where to look you can get some good deals on new or slightly used parts as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










I would have bought seperate parts if it was cheaper but

Rasa kit: 130 shipped vs ONLY Res + Radiator + cpu block = 150 (( missing bits tubes pumps etc ))

I mean if you could find me a rasa kit for cheaper, I would buy it right now lol and work custom parts in later.


----------



## Rickles

deleted, out of stock.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30017 seems like a pretty good place to start.


Helps if you post a link to a place with them in stock. Good luck with that though cause there aren't many of those kits available anymore.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rickles

lol didn't even check


----------



## phillyd

Well DD is going out of business 75% off of everything. I picked up an M6 Nickel block, fillport, SLI fitting kit and a syringe shipped for $37


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well DD is going out of business 75% off of everything. I picked up an M6 Nickel block, fillport, SLI fitting kit and a syringe shipped for $37


i'll go see what I can snag.

think you guys can help?

im looking for a 120 single or 240 rad kit, either premade or custom made.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well DD is going out of business 75% off of everything. I picked up an M6 Nickel block, fillport, SLI fitting kit and a syringe shipped for $37


Looks like their Network went down. I can't even access their site now.









~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

god im buying everything


----------



## kyismaster

What the heck, Total 69.99

shipping... 74 dollars....


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well DD is going out of business 75% off of everything. I picked up an M6 Nickel block, fillport, SLI fitting kit and a syringe shipped for $37


Are you serious?









*Updated*

You weren't kidding, it's a sad day when a water cooling manufacture goes out of business!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well DD is going out of business 75% off of everything. I picked up an M6 Nickel block, fillport, SLI fitting kit and a syringe shipped for $37
> 
> 
> 
> Are you serious?
Click to expand...

Good luck getting in over there I can't even get the site to come up now. I'm looking to see if they they have a 120 so I can get my GPU under water.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

I'm forril if I didn't already have the intel version I would've got both the Intel and AMD


----------



## kyismaster

well, shipping costed too much, so I passed the dangerden deal lol.


----------



## Arm3nian

I just finished my loop but I think there is a problem. When I touch the tubing there is very little flow on my hand, im not sure if this directly relates to not enough flow in the tube. I am using high flow compression fittings, I think I have tightened them correctly, as there is no leaks for about 4 hours now. Could tightening them too much cause bad flow? Anyways, my setup goes from bay res, to pump, to gtx 690 xspc water block, (which I also think i connected the fittings on correctly), to raystorm cpu block, to rad rx480 rad, and then goes to another rx480 rad and finally finishes back at the res.

I will probably go from 690 block to rad then to cpu then to the 2nd rad, as two huge rads right after each other seems pointless.

This is my pump, http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33677&zenid=dc99e1bd8f0d6db1847fa43fed28cab2

Anyway, when I put my hand on the tube that goes from the res to the pump, I can feel a bit of flow. When I put my hand from the discharge of the pump going up to the 690 block, I feel a great amount of flow. But that is where it stops, from the 690 to the cpu there is no pressure that I can feel, and the same thing all the way to the end of the res. The water is flowing I think as I see air bubbles entering the res from the input. This is all with my pump on max speed.

Also, when I tip the case over the noise of the pump changes, it feels like the pump is getting flooded on inside, like a gulping noise, after about 15 seconds it stops. No leakage anywhere though.

Help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good luck getting in over there I can't even get the site to come up now. I'm looking to see if they they have a 120 so I can get my GPU under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was able to get on but they are sold out of D5 pumps which is all i needed since i am adding a 2cd 1 to my build.

As soon as i seen the 75% deal on Facebook i new everything would sell out quickly.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 
> I just finished my loop but I think there is a problem. When I touch the tubing there is very little flow on my hand, im not sure if this directly relates to not enough flow in the tube. I am using high flow compression fittings, I think I have tightened them correctly, as there is no leaks for about 4 hours now. Could tightening them too much cause bad flow? Anyways, my setup goes from bay res, to pump, to gtx 690 xspc water block, (which I also think i connected the fittings on correctly), to raystorm cpu block, to rad rx480 rad, and then goes to another rx480 rad and finally finishes back at the res.
> I will probably go from 690 block to rad then to cpu then to the 2nd rad, as two huge rads right after each other seems pointless.
> This is my pump, http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33677&zenid=dc99e1bd8f0d6db1847fa43fed28cab2
> Anyway, when I put my hand on the tube that goes from the res to the pump, I can feel a bit of flow. When I put my hand from the discharge of the pump going up to the 690 block, I feel a great amount of flow. But that is where it stops, from the 690 to the cpu there is no pressure that I can feel, and the same thing all the way to the end of the res. The water is flowing I think as I see air bubbles entering the res from the input. This is all with my pump on max speed.
> Also, when I tip the case over the noise of the pump changes, it feels like the pump is getting flooded on inside, like a gulping noise, after about 15 seconds it stops. No leakage anywhere though.
> Help would be greatly appreciated


I believe its low flow beause you are pushing water straight vertical basically. :/

thats my theory anyways.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well DD is going out of business 75% off of everything. I picked up an M6 Nickel block, fillport, SLI fitting kit and a syringe shipped for $37


I picked up the same block plus the back plate for $27.56.


----------



## kyismaster

this reminds me of FTWPC


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I believe its low flow beause you are pushing water straight vertical basically. :/
> thats my theory anyways.


I see what you mean. But could that be the only problem? I bet if i managed to mount the pump above and to the right of the 690 block, and moved the res even higher, the pump would discharge downward at a 45 degree angle rather than a straight vertical angle, do you think that would do the trick? I made the tubing longer for those 2 so I think I can easily do this.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I see what you mean. But could that be the only problem? I bet if i managed to mount the pump above and to the right of the 690 block, and moved the res even higher, the pump would discharge downward at a 45 degree angle rather than a straight vertical angle, do you think that would do the trick? I made the tubing longer for those 2 so I think I can easily do this.


All i think you need to do is put the pump above the res. and it will flow better


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Does anyone know where i can get the DIYINHK modded PCB for the MCP350?


PM him on eBay.


----------



## jellybeans69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> i've got the feser white/uv-blue tubing and have not
> had any issues.. i like it so much using it for new build.
> i know Dazmode has it but not sure
> if you want to pay shipping all the way to Germany.
> (i'm guessing by the .de at tthe end of website you are
> from germany..sorry if i'm wrong)..


Actually i'm from eastern eu and de wc shops have most decent shipping prices/more stuff available. Nothing available localy here


----------



## Ceadderman

Sucks. I can get one Block for temporary use with 6870. But people are all either offline or not paying attention to PMs' at the moment. I've got $120 worth of spoken for items and no money in the PayPal to pull the frickin trigger on the block. Was hoping that they had two available but as soon as I went back to update my cart, it says sold out. I so wanted to get my Crossfire going.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Very much so.


Thanks, maybe I should buy the D5 with a custom top + res .... My final build is going to be 4x custom block where the flow may not be the best so maybe the DDC 10 Watt could need some more power ...
Quote:


> You should install the diyinhk Sanyo PCB. It will be much quieter
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/16/diyinhk-ddc-pump-sanyo-pcb-replacement-mod/


Will take a look at it, thanks








Quote:


> *From now until Monday,
> 
> save 75% off list prices on all in-stock inventory.
> 
> After 12 years our hobby has come to an end.
> 
> It's time to pursue other interests and Danger Den will be closing its doors.
> 
> Thank you for all your support over the years,
> 
> we've enjoyed being part of your modding community.
> 
> ~ Dan, Jeremy, Dennis, and Rokk
> *


Always sad when a watercooling company is closing - Thanks for the time


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> All i think you need to do is put the pump above the res. and it will flow better


That's the worst possible advice you could offer . . . . .

Poor flow rate is almost always caused by trapped air, and occasionally by backwards connected resevoirs, tubing kinks or other restrictions.

I'd suggest changing the tube routing from the pump to go to the underside of the GPU and get rid of that loop above it to start with.

Then make sure there are no kinks where the tubing runs behind the mobo tray.

That's a simple loop, once you get the air out, it should flow well.

What do you have your pump set at, if it's a variable speed?

Darlene


----------



## derickwm

Sad to see DD go, picked up some stuff though


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sad to see DD go, picked up some stuff though


very sad indeed, but i also picked a few things up - vital to my new build i plan on doing as wel!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's the worst possible advice you could offer . . . . .
> Poor flow rate is almost always caused by trapped air, and occasionally by backwards connected resevoirs, tubing kinks or other restrictions.
> I'd suggest changing the tube routing from the pump to go to the underside of the GPU and get rid of that loop above it to start with.
> Then make sure there are no kinks where the tubing runs behind the mobo tray.
> That's a simple loop, once you get the air out, it should flow well.
> What do you have your pump set at, if it's a variable speed?
> Darlene


He can have the pump above the res if its primed and has a good supply of water,not recommended tho...

Flow doesnt change throughout the loop,what he feels is a small amount of vibration from the pump. The plastic tubing damps the transmission hence why no feel of flow anywhere else.

Absolutely nothing wrong with the loop,except that the case is too big and there is way too much tube.

He could turn the top rad around,have the pump directly hooked up to the res and going straight up in to the rad,then run all his tubing going to the block round the back.
Case is just far too big tho....


----------



## Ceadderman

I hope my sales get done soon I got a couple things in my cart waiting for the cash to pull the trigger.

Block for one GPU
HDD kit
And a new Fillport, Syringe and tubing. Too bad DD doesn't have white tubing but oh well at the price for the pack I can live with it for a little while.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

They had nothing I need...







I wanted a tripple rad stand or a case but no dice.


----------



## derickwm

I got some blocks for Skulltrail, a variety of barbs, and some QDCs


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> They had nothing I need...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a tripple rad stand or a case but no dice.


Same here, I was even willing to pay pretty bad costing for shipping









Other then that it is not worth the shipping









Side question:

The res. I have has three ports at the bottom.

One for coolant to the res.

One for res. to the pump.

Should I use the other for a drain port, with a length of tube running to the bottom of my case? Will this make it a hassle to drain? (is about at the half way point in the loop, height wise)

My only other option is to put a T piece in the tube going back to the res., which will be visible and stand out. But this option it will sit as low as I can in my case (loop).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *He can have the pump above the res if its primed and has a good supply of water*,not recommended tho...
> Flow doesnt change throughout the loop,what he feels is a small amount of vibration from the pump. The plastic tubing damps the transmission hence why no feel of flow anywhere else.
> Absolutely nothing wrong with the loop,except that the case is too big and there is way too much tube.
> He could turn the top rad around,have the pump directly hooked up to the res and going straight up in to the rad,then run all his tubing going to the block round the back.
> Case is just far too big tho....


While true, it's having the res above the pump so that gravity can do its thing, that insures that that condition stays fulfilled.

It's the second rule of fight club scenario.

The long tubing loop from the pump above the GPU is going to make bleeding a pita, much like a vertically mounted rad with the fittings at the bottom.

Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

DAMMMMMMMMMMMISHEK!!!

Updated my cart 6870 block pilfered!!!! Who is the wiseazz that snuck in behind my back and took my block.









I guess I'm not gonna get anything now. That was the whole point to my buying from them before they closed for good.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I'm struggling to get the page loaded









edit: Haha, its funny how the checkout it faster than loading any page. I managed to get a few items and check out, paypal'd it, got my email order confirmation.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While true, it's having the res above the pump so that gravity can do its thing, *that insures that that condition stays fulfilled*.
> It's the second rule of fight club scenario.
> The long tubing loop from the pump above the GPU is going to make bleeding a pita, much like a vertically mounted rad with the fittings at the bottom.
> Darlene


Agreed.

Bay res make it awkward to bleed at best,im having endless fun with this XSPC res i using for this Z77 im doing.....


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished my loop but I think there is a problem. When I touch the tubing there is very little flow on my hand, im not sure if this directly relates to not enough flow in the tube. I am using high flow compression fittings, I think I have tightened them correctly, as there is no leaks for about 4 hours now. Could tightening them too much cause bad flow? Anyways, my setup goes from bay res, to pump, to gtx 690 xspc water block, (which I also think i connected the fittings on correctly), to raystorm cpu block, to rad rx480 rad, and then goes to another rx480 rad and finally finishes back at the res.
> I will probably go from 690 block to rad then to cpu then to the 2nd rad, as two huge rads right after each other seems pointless.
> This is my pump, http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33677&zenid=dc99e1bd8f0d6db1847fa43fed28cab2
> 
> 
> Anyway, when I put my hand on the tube that goes from the res to the pump, I can feel a bit of flow. When I put my hand from the discharge of the pump going up to the 690 block, I feel a great amount of flow. But that is where it stops, from the 690 to the cpu there is no pressure that I can feel, and the same thing all the way to the end of the res. The water is flowing I think as I see air bubbles entering the res from the input. This is all with my pump on max speed.
> Also, when I tip the case over the noise of the pump changes, it feels like the pump is getting flooded on inside, like a gulping noise, after about 15 seconds it stops. No leakage anywhere though.
> Help would be greatly appreciated


All you've described is totally normal. When I put my loop together I had the same concerns.

-The "flow" before and after the pump is actually vibrations. Somebody told me back then that you couldn't feel flow in a water cooling loop.
-The weird noise is simply air moving around. You should also notice coolant level in the reservoir going down.

Btw, that's a HUGE case for such a small loop. I wouldn't have put the tubing like you did at all. Looks like you went with the most complicated possible way to be honest.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Agreed.
> Bay res make it awkward to bleed at best,im having endless fun with this XSPC res i using for this Z77 im doing.....


Talking of which,its Leaktest day!!!










A little more tweaking of the tube to do and some touch-ups on the fittings also.


----------



## PCModderMike

I keep getting errors when trying to load Danger Den's site


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I keep getting errors when trying to load Danger Den's site


I got my order in and paid but there's still the possibility it can be cancelled due to no stock







. Crossing fingers









edit:










































This pump is driving me crazy







. Changed the pins from fan to molex and that still didn't solve the issue of not starting. Only thing that I could think of something is wrong with the pump. Took out the res and pump and tested the pump w/out the top-res. She fired up. Maybe a tad bit too tight on the housing screws, ? Gently tightened the screws and she continued to work. Strange thing was that I was just mostly idle w/ the fans at 100%. So I know the pump was not overheating when it quit and thermal shutdown kicked in on my cpu







.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Agreed.
> Bay res make it awkward to bleed at best,im having endless fun with this XSPC res i using for this Z77 im doing.....




Bleeding with that pump / res was such a pain I bought a tube res for that purpose. In the pursuit of a sharp looking purple. All you have to do is open a cap on the top and the air flies out of there.

Still trying to find the best way to drain though.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bleeding with that pump / res was such a pain I bought a tube res for that purpose. In the pursuit of a sharp looking purple. All you have to do is open a cap on the top and the air flies out of there.
> Still trying to find the best way to drain though.


Totally agree to that, I switched to a tube res for that same reason. (ease of filling and getting rid of air).


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Totally agree to that, I switched to a tube res for that same reason. (ease of filling and getting rid of air).


I thought about getting a bay res for a while but kept reading how much more difficult it is it work with, so I decided against it. Plus, I'm in love with my Lund PomPlex res now


----------



## NewHighScore

Strange. I didn't have any problems whatsoever bleeding my dual bay res. I must just have really good luck because I have never had any problem with bleeding or loop filling.


----------



## Rickles

I still have that pump res combo installed, and that is where I fill at, but I used to have to rock the case all over to get all the air out, now it just does it all on its own in a minute or two.


----------



## Fuganater

nvm


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ Use the spoiler to hide all but one pic bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's your loop so far btw?


The loop is solid... All the mircro bubbles in the res have disapated, and it runs pretty silent. For the time being, I haven't added any software because I'll be adding another HDD soon, but I am currently shopping for software and games that I'll eventually add.


----------



## sunset1

@wermad I really hope you get this issue solved. You are always lending a hand to others and i want to see your new upgrade a rockin. btw thanks for all the posts i have really learned a lot reading your posts as well as others in this forum.
Sunset1


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Does anyone know where i can get the DIYINHK modded PCB for the MCP350?


It's a crazy coincidence but I decided to go read a bit on local forums (check French worklogs and all) and I fell on this:
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230727190131&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649&clk_rvr_id=405894524179&afsrc=1#ht_888wt_1398

$10 and free shipping to revive a dead (burnt or whatever) pump or just to make one more silent and efficient sounds good to me.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Good god this build is so pleasing to my eyes... SPECTACULAR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these shots will definitely be going in my list to print and frame


Thanks! I didn't have a ton of time to mess around with them in a photo editor, but I think they turned out pretty well. First time using a tripod for me.


----------



## RKTGX95

could anyone help me out on this a bit?

planning to get a new case which would have to:

1. have enough WC rad space for cpu+ Maximus V Formula WB + gpu + (maybe) 2nd gpu
2. have the ability to fulfill my dream of a Red Alert 2 themed case. (though still in planning, and unlikely to happen anytime soon)
(it would be primarily in red and black, or just red and black theme if my dream would get on hold)

my options for now are:

1. (The) NZXT Switch Black (not SE, aka GLOSSY)
2. Corsair C70 black
3. CM Storm Trooper Window (looks like the stryker but in black)

Help (and ideas) are appreciated


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> could anyone help me out on this a bit?
> planning to get a new case which would have to:
> 1. have enough WC rad space for cpu+ Maximus V Formula WB + gpu + (maybe) 2nd gpu
> 2. have the ability to fulfill my dream of a Red Alert 2 themed case. (though still in planning, and unlikely to happen anytime soon)
> (it would be primarily in red and black, or just red and black theme if my dream would get on hold)
> my options for now are:
> 1. (The) NZXT Switch Black (not SE, aka GLOSSY)
> 2. Corsair C70 black
> 3. CM Storm Trooper Window (looks like the stryker but in black)
> Help (and ideas) are appreciated


Any one of the three cases would be a good choice and fit in with your theme. You may have to do some modding on the CM Storm Trooper to allow for a 360 rad in the roof. The NZXT case has plenty of room and rad support and the Corsair C70 can support a 360 rad with little or no modding. I think your decision should be based on how much modding and room inside the case you need. But again three steller case choices. My money would probably go to the NXZT just because all of the room inside.


----------



## Hooded

Or you could check out Azza's new case Genisis 9000 Black and Red or White and Blue versions


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> could anyone help me out on this a bit?
> planning to get a new case which would have to:
> 1. have enough WC rad space for cpu+ Maximus V Formula WB + gpu + (maybe) 2nd gpu
> 2. have the ability to fulfill my dream of a Red Alert 2 themed case. (though still in planning, and unlikely to happen anytime soon)
> (it would be primarily in red and black, or just red and black theme if my dream would get on hold)
> my options for now are:
> 1. (The) NZXT Switch Black (not SE, aka GLOSSY)
> 2. Corsair C70 black
> 3. CM Storm Trooper Window (looks like the stryker but in black)
> Help (and ideas) are appreciated


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Any one of the three cases would be a good choice and fit in with your theme. You may have to do some modding on the CM Storm Trooper to allow for a 360 rad in the roof. The NZXT case has plenty of room and rad support and the Corsair C70 can support a 360 rad with little or no modding. I think your decision should be based on how much modding and room inside the case you need. But again three steller case choices. My money would probably go to the NXZT just because all of the room inside.


Might I also add the new NZXT Phantom 820 in the mix. It has the same internals as the switch, but about 10mm more space on the top so you can put in a 60MM rad with push pull (25mm fans) and not have anything rub.

In the switch 810 with push pull using 60mm rad, and 25mm fans you would have to cut some of the fan shroud off so the CPU power cable can be plugged in.

Also I have seen some pictures of the 900D (looks really sweet), no idea on price.

What I mean about the fan shroud in 810. The 820 you wont have too.


----------



## Arm3nian

I'm not quite understanding the bleeding difference between a bay and tube res. They are both reservoirs... plus I can take my res out very easily, 2 light screws and can also fill it very easily. After 4 hours of it running there were no air bubbles going into the res, but I can't actually see air bubbles because my tubing is really dark. Anyways, i'll rearrange my loop when I get home. I can cut the res discharge tube to make it short and mount the pump on the mobo tray i'm guessing, then go from underneath the gpu block, to the rad, then cpu, then to the rad on the other side of the case, and then finish at the res.

Also, my case is huge but it's pretty much the best except for the other two higher models case labs offers. All aluminum, and can fit 6x 480 rads, 8 if i didn't get a window on the mobo side. I can get more rads later when I get $, holidays are coming









The only real problem I was having was the compression fittings. I was ripping my hands getting them on as tight as I could, half of them I think are stuck now... now I realize you dont have to rip the skin off your hands to make it tight, comfortably will do I think.


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I'm not quite understanding the bleeding difference between a bay and tube res. They are both reservoirs... plus I can take my res out very easily, 2 light screws and can also fill it very easily. After 4 hours of it running there were no air bubbles going into the res, but I can't actually see air bubbles because my tubing is really dark. Anyways, i'll rearrange my loop when I get home. I can cut the res discharge tube to make it short and mount the pump on the mobo tray i'm guessing, then go from underneath the gpu block, to the rad, then cpu, then to the rad on the other side of the case, and then finish at the res.
> Also, my case is huge but it's pretty much the best except for the other two higher models case labs offers. All aluminum, and can fit 6x 480 rads, 8 if i didn't get a window on the mobo side. I can get more rads later when I get $, holidays are coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only real problem I was having was the compression fittings. I was ripping my hands getting them on as tight as I could, half of them I think are stuck now... now I realize you dont have to rip the skin off your hands to make it tight, comfortably will do I think.


When tightening a compression fitting, you should have a gap the same thickness as the wall of your tube, between the fittings threaded cap and the fitting body. Anything more will just cause you greif when it comes time to take it apart. Over tightening can actually cut the tube.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Any one of the three cases would be a good choice and fit in with your theme. You may have to do some modding on the CM Storm Trooper to allow for a 360 rad in the roof. The NZXT case has plenty of room and rad support and the Corsair C70 can support a 360 rad with little or no modding. I think your decision should be based on how much modding and room inside the case you need. But again three steller case choices. My money would probably go to the NXZT just because all of the room inside.


important note: i'm no modder (







)
but, i think that for me the problem is choosing a case that could (out of the box) fit the best for the (possible) theme. and in that case (pun) i think the 810 loses a bit.
also, how bad is the non-SE black 810
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Or you could check out Azza's new case Genisis 9000 Black and Red or White and Blue versions


unfortunately unavailable to me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Might I also add the new NZXT Phantom 820 in the mix. It has the same internals as the switch, but about 10mm more space on the top so you can put in a 60MM rad with push pull (25mm fans) and not have anything rub.
> In the switch 810 with push pull using 60mm rad, and 25mm fans you would have to cut some of the fan shroud off so the CPU power cable can be plugged in.
> Also I have seen some pictures of the 900D (looks really sweet), no idea on price.
> What I mean about the fan shroud in 810. The 820 you wont have too.


few problems with that case:
1. not yet available to me (no idea when it comes)
2. if the switch 810 costs ~240$ for me locally (Israel), i'm afraid to guess the price of the 820.
3. doesn't fit my planned them quite good (i.e. it's style has a very different direction, unless i could think of something or it would be a purple Yuri theme







)

Thanks for the help fellas


----------



## Atham

Guys, are there any benefits from a larger reservoir? If so, let me know.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Guys, are there any benefits from a larger reservoir? If so, let me know.


If it is large enough you only have to fill it once or twice to fill your whole loop. Other than lengthening the amount of time it takes for the water to reach max temp, it has no cooling value


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> If it is large enough you only have to fill it once or twice to fill your whole loop. Other than lengthening the amount of time it takes for the water to reach max temp, it has no cooling value


I see. For a first time WC'er, should I be getting a bay Res from the XSPC kit, or something else?


----------



## jellybeans69

Bay res tend to be harder to bleed/fill, i'd prefer tube res


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> When tightening a compression fitting, you should have a gap the same thickness as the wall of your tube, between the fittings threaded cap and the fitting body. Anything more will just cause you greif when it comes time to take it apart. Over tightening can actually cut the tube.


I have these fittings http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=22626

And this tubing http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292&products_id=23370

How much of a gap should there be between the ring and the fitting? Thanks


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I have these fittings http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=22626
> And this tubing http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292&products_id=23370
> How much of a gap should there be between the ring and the fitting? Thanks


As stated in the quoted text, the thickness of the wall of the tube. Which, in this case, would be 1/8"
EDIT: hopefully that didn't come off as condescending, as that's not how I meant it at all. I was only going by what Hooded had said
EDIT2: been out of mathematics classes too long


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> important note: i'm no modder (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> but, i think that for me the problem is choosing a case that could (out of the box) fit the best for the (possible) theme. and in that case (pun) i think the 810 loses a bit.
> also, how bad is the non-SE black 810
> unfortunately unavailable to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> few problems with that case:
> 1. not yet available to me (no idea when it comes)
> 2. if the switch 810 costs ~240$ for me locally (Israel), i'm afraid to guess the price of the 820.
> 3. doesn't fit my planned them quite good (i.e. it's style has a very different direction, unless i could think of something or it would be a purple Yuri theme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Thanks for the help fellas


Switch 810 is what I would recommend, as you can fit even fit a 360 (35mm thickness) without any issues top and full thickness 240 in the bottom in push pull. And all that without cutting or changing anything.


----------



## HPE1000

It's watercooled bro!







I ordered a desktop storage drive last night, and it should get here sometime soon, but it will fit.


Spoiler: OLD Desktop HDD does fit






GTX670 sometime soon


----------



## Rickles

Since the outlet of the XSPC d5 dual bay is on the top after any substantial amount of air is bled through the fillport of that res, you are almost instantly at a water level below your output port. If you have a top mounted rad this makes it even more of a pain as you have to not only pump water up, you have to convince the air up in that rad to come back down. This means you need to consistently maintain a water level above the outlet port. The easiest way around this is ensuring your res is the highest point of your loop, which is not something I recomend doing with the cap off, but that is what makes it such a slow and painful process....

By filling a 250 ml tube res and then filling the ~300 ml bay res I then have more then enough to fill my tubes and the bay res. I have both ports of the 250 ml tube res on the bottom, this allows me to remove a cap from the tube res and let air out of my loop. If I used a top port on the tube I would be back to square 1, as I would also have maintain a water level high enough to fill the 250 ml res. BUT by using bottom ports I have ensured that by the time both my reservoirs and whatever water makes it into the tube is filled is a greater volume than the air trapped in my upper rad and tubes(that can't be fed by gravity).

You can control the water level in the tube res by choosing when to cap it. If I wanted it completely full I would simply uncap it and gravity would fill it, deceptively fast when using a hex key left handed







I left mine with a small gap and then finished by topping the bay res to "recommended" level.

Hope this helps if not







cause you know more about it than I did when I started out.

Also sorry if it seems like a wall of text.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Since the outlet of the XSPC d5 dual bay is on the top after any substantial amount of air is bled through the fillport of that res, you are almost instantly at a water level below your output port. If you have a top mounted rad this makes it even more of a pain as you have to not only pump water up, you have to convince the air up in that rad to come back down. This means you need to consistently maintain a water level above the outlet port.


That's just not true. The outlet port is indeed on the top, but the port from res -> pump is towards the bottom.


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I have these fittings http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=22626
> And this tubing http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292&products_id=23370
> How much of a gap should there be between the ring and the fitting? Thanks


There should be 1/8" gap or just under that. Not ¼" as stated by *morencyam*

If you tube is ½" id and ¾" od then then the wall thickness is 1/8".Because there is a wall thinkness on each side of the tube.

1/8 + 1/2 + 1/8 = 3/4


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> There should be 1/8" gap or just under that. Not ¼" as stated by *morencyam*
> If you tube is ½" id and ¾" od then then the wall thickness is 1/8".Because there is a wall thinkness on each side of the tube.
> 
> 1/8 + 1/2 + 1/8 = 3/4










my mistake. I always forget to compensate for the second wall. Thanks for pointing that out Hooded


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> That's just not true. The outlet port is indeed on the top, but the port from res -> pump is towards the bottom.




My pump sucks too much air like that, thus bringing me back to more problems.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Switch 810 is what I would recommend, as you can fit even fit a 360 (35mm thickness) without any issues top and full thickness 240 in the bottom in push pull. And all that without cutting or changing anything.


i never doubted the 810's excellence in WC or anything, i am just doubting it would fir because: A) its the non SE (aka FINGER PRINTS!!!) one, and B) lacks some style (a bit plain) IMO for the task. other than that i agree that its the best choice out there. (also, i think you could mount a Monsta 80mm rad with only pull in it)


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> 
> My pump sucks too much air like that, thus bringing me back to more problems.


What you don't understand is that there are two chambers. One is the actual reservor, the other is the pump area. The outlet from reservoir to pump area is towards the bottom third of the reservoir. It doesn't matter if the water level is below the PUMP outlet, the only thing that matters is the reservoir to pump outlet, which is different than what you are illustrating.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i never doubted the 810's excellence in WC or anything, i am just doubting it would fir because: A) its the non SE (aka FINGER PRINTS!!!) one, and B) lacks some style (a bit plain) IMO for the task. other than that i agree that its the best choice out there. (also, i think you could mount a Monsta 80mm rad with only pull in it)


Yah, the Switch 810 has 90mm of space till you hit that first rom bay plate. The Phantom 820 has only 70mm space between the top of the case rad mount and the mobo top, as referenced by OC3D at the 22-23min mark.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Talking of which,its Leaktest day!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little more tweaking of the tube to do and some touch-ups on the fittings also.


please tell me what fittings did you use! I LOVE the black finish on them


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Talking of which,its Leaktest day!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little more tweaking of the tube to do and some touch-ups on the fittings also.


where is the detail on how you mounted the triple rad? (WE NEED TO SEE IT, FOR THE SAKE OF WC)


----------



## ginger_nuts

Can people please help me, am I better off having a drainage line from the res. (for aesthetics) or at lowest possible loop point (for practicality)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The res. I have has three ports at the bottom.
> One for coolant to the res.
> One for res. to the pump.
> Should I use the other for a drain port, with a length of tube running to the bottom of my case? Will this make it a hassle to drain? (is about at the half way point in the loop, height wise)
> My only other option is to put a T piece in the tube going back to the res., which will be visible and stand out. But this option it will sit as low as I can in my case (loop).


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Or you could check out Azza's new case Genisis 9000 Black and Red or White and Blue versions


No full clear window plus i would have to place the case to the left of me just to see inside it lol.

Decent case but i am not impressed but who ever needs a ton of airflow it will work well.


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> No full clear window plus i would have to place the case to the left of me just to see inside it lol.
> Decent case but i am not impressed but who ever needs a ton of airflow it will work well.


The entire case revers not just the board LOL the side panels switch as well.

How hard is a window mod really?. The NZXT Phanton 820 suffers from the same issue with the window. And the extra cost


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> The entire case revers not just the board LOL the side panels switch as well.
> 
> How hard is a window mod really?. The NZXT Phanton 820 suffers from the same issue with the window. And the extra cost


Any case that does that is not my taste.

You would have to hack up the entire side of the case just to put a window there which sucks after spending a decent amount of money on it.

You would figure all these huge full towers would be designed mostly for water cooling with a huge clear window to show everything off but after watching the video i was mistaken.










Have fun hacking that up to install a clear window plus all these side panel mesh fan mounts are fail and that was a big complaint on the Corsair C70.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> please tell me what fittings did you use! I LOVE the black finish on them


I sprayed them,they were black nickel before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> where is the detail on how you mounted the triple rad? (WE NEED TO SEE IT, FOR THE SAKE OF WC)












I will show you during the final build shots.


----------



## Hooded

I think if enough people speak up and tell Azza what they want they may well make one with a large window side panel. Or maybe an optional large side window panel..

The current trend to to have a lot of air flow for air cooled multi gpu machines. Also revering the board makes sense to have the hotter GPU's above the cooler CPU as heat rises.



> Any case that does that is not my taste.


No speaking for tase.

I like the idea of being able to assemble the mainboard with all the blocks, tubing and wiring, outside of the case. So easy to see what your doing.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i never doubted the 810's excellence in WC or anything, i am just doubting it would fir because: A) its the non SE (aka FINGER PRINTS!!!) one, and B) lacks some style (a bit plain) IMO for the task. other than that i agree that its the best choice out there. (also, i think you could mount a Monsta 80mm rad with only pull in it)


I agree on the non SE, i have a white one and its better then the black one (have a black phantom), you cannot see the finger prints that easy on white, compared to white.

You can fit a monster with push pull. I wanted to fit a monster in mine, but ended up against it. But I did get 4 rads inside my switch including a 60mm 420 and 45mm 360, so I don't mind not having a monster rad (well I guess, I do mind not having one







.....).

Picture before mounting the mosfet block. will take some better one over the weekend as hopefully by the sleeving will be done, and the rig up and running.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> I like the idea of being able to assemble the mainboard with all the blocks, tubing and wiring, outside of the case. So easy to see what your doing.


I love that idea too, and with that said, I will send an email to Azza to make a case that looks good as the genesis is a very functional case. And I personally love a reversed ATX look (given how my desk is setup, thats the only way I can show off and look inside my rig)


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> 
> My pump sucks too much air like that, thus bringing me back to more problems.


Thats not how the res is at all. There are 3 holes in the res, one at the very top to fill with water, and 2 located near the bottom, 1 for pump outlet and another to close to loop.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show you during the final build shots.


*takes out a chair, prepares countdown and makes enough popcorn*
Well, i'm waiting









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I agree on the non SE, i have a white one and its better then the black one (have a black phantom), you cannot see the finger prints that easy on white, compared to white.
> You can fit a monster with push pull. I wanted to fit a monster in mine, but ended up against it. But I did get 4 rads inside my switch including a 60mm 420 and 45mm 360, so I don't mind not having a monster rad (well I guess, I do mind not having one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....).


well, i really want to pull off a black with red theme of colour, and many said that the black Non SE is GLOOOOOSY and leaves many fingerprints. (







)
other than that, i think i'm on an inner debate of going on the C70 or the non SE 810. Style vs size and capability...


----------



## Fonne

What is the best top to the D5 ? - Really thinking about selling my DDC 10W and get a D5









Is thinking about getting this - EK-D5 X-RES 100 CSQ:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-x-res-top-100-csq-black-acetal.html



Would be nice to have a res if the performance is still good - But really dont know anything about D5 top/res.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> What is the best top to the D5 ? - Really thinking about selling my DDC 10W and get a D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is thinking about getting this - EK-D5 X-RES 100 CSQ:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-x-res-top-100-csq-black-acetal.html
> 
> Would be nice to have a res if the performance is still good - But really dont know anything about D5 top/res.




I will leave that there then.....


----------



## Fonne

Cant find the total height on that one anywhere ? - Forgot the mention it, but only got 150mm to fit it between ...


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*


*@phillyd*

I have a question, was Danger Den the US distributor for Hardware Labs?


----------



## kyismaster

i think im gonna go for a kuhler 620 for 15 dollars.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> *@phillyd*
> I have a question, was Danger Den the US distributor for Hardware Labs?


http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&Itemid=52

does that answer enough?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&Itemid=52
> does that answer enough?


Reseller =/= distributor.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> There should be 1/8" gap or just under that. Not ¼" as stated by *morencyam*
> If you tube is ½" id and ¾" od then then the wall thickness is 1/8".Because there is a wall thinkness on each side of the tube.
> 
> 1/8 + 1/2 + 1/8 = 3/4


Thanks dude, now I know why compression fittings are preferred for sealing the tube instead of making your hands bleed. Tried it under the faucet and no leaks and with 1/8th gap its almost the exact tightness of a comfortable rotation using hands.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Got this new block for my HD 7970. Will be running 2 in CF.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Can people please help me, am I better off having a drainage line from the res. (for aesthetics) or at lowest possible loop point (for practicality)?


I personally Prefer the Lowest Point .. That way i am letting Gravity do most of the Work and I don't have to tilt the case much... But If aesthetics is your worry than do whatever.. Just think about what wont be drained though,,, anything below the point of your Fitting.. Good Luck


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Got this new block for my HD 7970. Will be running 2 in CF.


Looks gorgeous man!


----------



## captvizcenzo

I think I should share this here.


The right portion of the res has Primochill System Scrubber in it. The tubes do look clear though. Have been running for almost 24 hours.


----------



## derickwm

Interesting, thanks for the share. I guess a drain and refill is necessary after using it.


----------



## superericla

Well, it looks as though I should have an EVGA x79 FTW motherboard here within a week or so. Good news for me seeing as how my old motherboard died.

On another note, that system scrubber seems interesting. I wonder what's in it...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well, it looks as though I should have an EVGA x79 FTW motherboard here within a week or so. Good news for me seeing as how my old motherboard died.
> On another note, that system scrubber seems interesting. I wonder what's in it...


maybe its just hydrogen peroxide lol.








does look like it does something... for maybe the better or the worse.

lol, kinda seems annoying to have to drain it for every application though lols, maybe do it every few months would be better


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Interesting, thanks for the share. I guess a drain and refill is necessary after using it.


Yes, I'll drain and refill tomorrow.
I guess I might run the polluted coolant through my gpu loop tubes before throwing it away. Don't want to pour the scrubber into the other part of the res and mess it too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> On another note, that system scrubber seems interesting. I wonder what's in it...


Hopefully nothing that will corrode the metals away


----------



## derickwm

What happened to your board...


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> maybe its just hydrogen peroxide lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does look like it does something... for maybe the better or the worse.
> lol, kinda seems annoying to have to drain it for every application though lols, maybe do it every few months would be better


It is annoying, unless there's new part coming in.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> What is the best top to the D5 ? - Really thinking about selling my DDC 10W and get a D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is thinking about getting this - EK-D5 X-RES 100 CSQ:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-x-res-top-100-csq-black-acetal.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be nice to have a res if the performance is still good - But really dont know anything about D5 top/res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will leave that there then.....
Click to expand...

The EK one is pretty nice but that aquacomputer one is stupid expensive...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What happened to your board...


It just randomly gave out on me. As soon as I added a second gpu for sli it just stopped working and wouldn't work in any configuration after that. It's being sent to msi for an rma, but I needed a board sooner than that to compete in the forum folding wars.


----------



## derickwm

I love MSI as a graphics card company, but as a motherboard company, different story.

Yes, folding for team viking is very important


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I love MSI as a graphics card company, but as a motherboard company, different story.
> Yes, folding for team viking is very important


I agree about msi being very different with graphics cards and motherboards. I'm expecting a 4-6 week rma process, and that's much too long if I want to help out team Viking.


----------



## derickwm

Yup, pretty much what finally pushed me to order a new SR-2









Sorry for OT B-Neg

...but seriously everyone here should fold for team viking. Link in sig.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yup, pretty much what finally pushed me to order a new SR-2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for OT B-Neg
> ...but seriously everyone here should fold for team viking. Link in sig.


No problem.

Anything that pushes the SR-2 or folding is fine by me.


----------



## ginger_nuts

What a very sad day, I finally had a day where I could spend time building my system.

Everything in place,just installing my GPU's, and bam!!!

Don't fit with my new pump, Koolance pmp-500.

So quick looking it is going to cost more money then I have, this close to christmas, looking at approx $200, to either get a new case, which would be Bitfenix XL Shinobi White if I get my way or a white NZXT Switch if my wife gets her way.

or a new pump res.combo,to which I would have two pumps and res's sitting around









I think I might just drown my sorrows and deal with this tomorrow


----------



## derickwm

Post pics! I'm curious to see how much room you have and such.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just give me an hour or so to find and charge the camera battery, but I will post









As promised:







Remember I have another Gigabyte GTX570 to still fit, goes two slots below. I have a EK bridge to join the two.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> *@phillyd*
> I have a question, was Danger Den the US distributor for Hardware Labs?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hwlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&Itemid=52
> 
> does that answer enough?
Click to expand...

They were partner companies and DD was a reseller, but not the distributor.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just give me an hour or so to find and charge the camera battery, but I will post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As promised:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I have another Gigabyte GTX570 to still fit, goes two slots below. I have a EK bridge to join the two.


Put the pump on its side and use a 90 degree from the pump to the res.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Put the pump on its side and use a 90 degree from the pump to the res.


It looks like the res will be wide even if he did. You could try to put everything on its side and run it horizontally just above the psu?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What a very sad day, I finally had a day where I could spend time building my system.
> Everything in place,just installing my GPU's, and bam!!!
> Don't fit with my new pump, Koolance pmp-500.
> So quick looking it is going to cost more money then I have, this close to christmas, looking at approx $200, to either get a new case, which would be Bitfenix XL Shinobi White if I get my way or a white NZXT Switch if my wife gets her way.
> or a new pump res.combo,to which I would have two pumps and res's sitting around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I might just drown my sorrows and deal with this tomorrow










... That Sucks...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Put the pump on its side and use a 90 degree from the pump to the res.


It can not fit there, it covers the 24pin socket.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> It looks like the res will be wide even if he did. You could try to put everything on its side and run it horizontally just above the psu?


Down there it stops my second GPU








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... That Sucks...


----------



## Michalius

Well, you'll be happy once you moved in to the Shinobi XL. Amazing water cooling case.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Well, you'll be happy once you moved in to the Shinobi XL. Amazing water cooling case.


This ^
Although if you have to "settle" for the Switch, it's a fine case as well. Either way, look at the bright side, you have an excuse to get a better case, with the wife's approval!


----------



## wermad

Well, i can cross off the pmp-500 from my list of new pumps. i'm tired of this 35x refusing to start. Once i get my new gpu setup going, its on the hunt for a new pump. I'm not touching another 35x, ever


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> They were partner companies and DD was a reseller, but not the distributor.


Willie at Hardware Labs scheduled a Fed-Ex pick-up for my defective GTX radiator and a day goes by and I fine out the scheduled Fed-Ex pick-up was canceled without any explanation from Willie or Hardware Labs, I'm confused. My emails have been completely ignored....

Anybody have a clue?


----------



## corysti

So this is the current status of the r4 only thing that is left is new gpu and a couple of ssd's....I may change out the radiator fans for something that will fit better with the build.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, i can cross off the pmp-500 from my list of new pumps. i'm tired of this 35x refusing to start. Once i get my new gpu setup going, its on the hunt for a new pump. I'm not touching another 35x, ever


Perhaps a D5, or two?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, i can cross off the pmp-500 from my list of new pumps. i'm tired of this 35x refusing to start. Once i get my new gpu setup going, its on the hunt for a new pump. I'm not touching another 35x, ever


Haven't had a single issue with my D5 vario.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It just randomly gave out on me. As soon as I added a second gpu for sli it just stopped working and wouldn't work in any configuration after that. It's being sent to msi for an rma, but I needed a board sooner than that to compete in the forum folding wars.


That happened to me on my MSIZ68A-GD65 G3

Turn off your rig-do not remove the power cord,remove your cards, then reset the C-Mos.

Then remove the power cord,, then remove the battery, and start over-insert the cards and go into your bios and make sure that they are being recognised.

If that does not work, rinse and repeat, but before you do that remove your cards' drivers properly-then re install the drivers after you power up your rig.

Use this to ensure complete driver removal : Driver Sweeper-:http://www.guru3d.com/content_page/guru3d_driver_sweeper.html

Link included there.

It seems that the bios has some sort of problem at times when introducing new cards.

(if you have tried all of the above-then RMA looks like your only option)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, i can cross off the pmp-500 from my list of new pumps. i'm tired of this 35x refusing to start. Once i get my new gpu setup going, its on the hunt for a new pump. I'm not touching another 35x, ever


D5.

You know it makes sense.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, i can cross off the pmp-500 from my list of new pumps. i'm tired of this 35x refusing to start. Once i get my new gpu setup going, its on the hunt for a new pump. I'm not touching another 35x, ever


werm, I have two of bmavrick's mcp350's in a dual serial EK top just sitting collecting dust. I'll sell them to you pretty cheap if you want them


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, i can cross off the pmp-500 from my list of new pumps. i'm tired of this 35x refusing to start. Once i get my new gpu setup going, its on the hunt for a new pump. I'm not touching another 35x, ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D5.
> 
> You know it makes sense.
Click to expand...

That settles it then.
The maestro has spoken:thumb:


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Definitely D5 but you gotta get a pump top and mod kit. Makes a lot of difference....


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I agree about msi being very different with graphics cards and motherboards. I'm expecting a 4-6 week rma process, and that's much too long if I want to help out team Viking.


I have RMA'd 2 boards through MSi - both RMAs took less than 2 weeks.








Maybe I got lucky?


----------



## Rickles

just bought 2 heater cores from danger den... couldn't resist at $5 each... do they have a lot higher restriction??


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Perhaps a D5, or two?


2 lol


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I have RMA'd 2 boards through MSi - both RMAs took less than 2 weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I got lucky?


I have an AMD system with a MSI board that I got from MicorCenter, and when it went bad after 4 months. I just walked in the store, and to my surprise, they handed my a brand new board and I was out of the door.

On a different stroke, leak testing is going great.


----------



## Ceadderman

Gingernuts should go with the AZZA case...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517019
AZZA Genesis 9000 @ the egg $160 after $20 rebate 

I know it doesn't have a Window but we're modders. We make our own when the Case doesn't come with one or a suitable one. If this case was available back when I got 932, I would have been all over it like stink on excrement. I rather like the black and red theme but these white and blue themed cases are baddazz!









~Ceadder


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, i can cross off the pmp-500 from my list of new pumps. i'm tired of this 35x refusing to start. Once i get my new gpu setup going, its on the hunt for a new pump. I'm not touching another 35x, ever


This is why I replaced my 355 with a D5, I just didn't trust it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gingernuts should go with the AZZA case...
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517019
> AZZA Genesis 9000 @ the egg $160 after $20 rebate
> I know it doesn't have a Window but we're modders. We make our own when the Case doesn't come with one or a suitable one. If this case was available back when I got 932, I would have been all over it like stink on excrement. I rather like the black and red theme but these white and blue themed cases are baddazz!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No amount of modding can make that case look good.....

Only fire can help it.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No amount of modding can make that case look good.....
> Only fire can help it.


you are just being negative...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No amount of modding can make that case look good.....
> Only fire can help it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> you are just being negative...


I see what ya did there Rick







I'm going to have to agree with BNeg on this one though. That case is ugly as sin. I have never seen an Azza case that I like


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> you are just being negative...


Im sure people think the same of my Little Devil,cases are such a personal choice..

I like the C70 and the new Scout at the minute.

I cant stand anything with a Lian Li badge on it either,they are vile too.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No amount of modding can make that case look good.....
> Only fire can help it.


So true! Wait... what?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I cant stand anything with a Lian Li badge on it either,they are vile too.


Them is fightin' words.


----------



## mvh11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No amount of modding can make that case look good.....
> Only fire can help it.


I would disagree, this build looks excellent:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1281076/sponsored-arctic-rain


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> you are just being negative...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I see what ya did there Rick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to have to agree with BNeg on this one though. That case is ugly as sin. I have never seen an Azza case that I like


^^This and this..LOL
I think those cases are fugly!


----------



## Michalius

It's a case that is stuck in 2005. Like the HAF.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mvh11*
> 
> I would disagree, this build looks excellent:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1281076/sponsored-arctic-rain


Looks good yes but he is stuck leaving the side panel off the entire time just so he can show off everything.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No amount of modding can make that case look good.....
> Only fire can help it.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> It's a case that is stuck in 2005. Like the HAF.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Looks good yes but he is stuck leaving the side panel off the entire time just so he can show off everything.


That,and the mobo looks like its been eaten by beavers.....

And constant refilling.

and the humidity near his rig...


----------



## wermad

Nah, I'm going with a 355 (ddc 3.2). I was convinced on the 35x but honestly, it sucks. I may just have a bad one. But I'm scared in life to stay away from it







. DDC 3.2 FTW.

I'm not doing D5 after owning a noisy and hot one. Mcp 355 has been the best I've used.

Plus, I have no room for dual ddc(s) or a massive D5 in my case since its stuff full of Monsta rads. I have a couple of fans under my pump so need to play "ddc is hot" card which I still strongly feel its not that bad (its not worse than a D5 imho)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nah, I'm going with a 355 (ddc 3.2). I was convinced on the 35x but honestly, it sucks. I may just have a bad one. But I'm scared in life to stay away from it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . DDC 3.2 FTW.
> 
> I'm not doing D5 after owning a noisy and hot one. Mcp 355 has been the best I've used.
> 
> Plus, I have no room for dual ddc(s) or a massive D5 in my case since its stuff full of Monsta rads. I have a couple of fans under my pump so need to play "ddc is hot" card which I still strongly feel its not that bad (its not worse than a D5 imho)


Bro... I keep bangin this drum I know but you really oughta get a DDC-1T if you're gonna get a DDC. I have 2 of them only one is running and the 2nd is inline backup. I have it on my controller at 3/4 voltage and my system is running 38c under Full Load. 6Cores of Folding goodness. Outside temp is 13c, Indoor temp is 21c. You cannot go wrong for a $35 pump. DDC-1T = DDC 35x for performance. bmaverick will take care of you if you have issues.









I love my bmaverick brand DDC pumps. Gonna get a couple more hopefully soon so I can have some back up should my main go down.









Oh an AZZA ain't ugly guys. He needs room in his case that thing has loads to spare and is the only case to my knowledge that allows forward mounting of the PSU.









An my HAF ain't ugly either.









~Ceadder


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ...
> *Oh an AZZA ain't ugly guys*. He needs room in his case that thing has loads to spare and is the only case to my knowledge that allows forward mounting of the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *An my HAF ain't ugly either*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


...opinions vary...


----------



## wermad

I have no room for two ddc









Going with a 355. I can hook it up my Mesh controller and lower the voltage to cut back on the noise.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Sorry you're wrong. D5 is better because that's what I have!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Bro... I keep bangin this drum I know but you really oughta get a DDC-1T if you're gonna get a DDC. I have 2 of them only one is running and the 2nd is inline backup. I have it on my controller at 3/4 voltage and my system is running 38c under Full Load. 6Cores of Folding goodness. Outside temp is 13c, Indoor temp is 21c. You cannot go wrong for a $35 pump. DDC-1T = DDC 35x for performance. bmaverick will take care of you if you have issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my bmaverick brand DDC pumps. Gonna get a couple more hopefully soon so I can have some back up should my main go down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh an AZZA ain't ugly guys. He needs room in his case that thing has loads to spare and is the only case to my knowledge that allows forward mounting of the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An my HAF ain't ugly either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


10w......440 lph......
Cant see it doing the job with a quadfired rig Ceadder,
It certainly doesnt match up to the 18w DDC,what on earth makes you think it can?

The AZZA is ugly dude,it looks like it was made from melted down milk crates.


----------



## wermad

quad fire/sli......wermad has no gpu listed in his rig...hmmmm...









DDC still prime choice....hmmmm......









Edit: Azza Genesis rocks!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> quad fire/sli......wermad has no gpu listed in his rig...hmmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDC still prime choice....hmmmm......


You not running 4 cards anymore?

DDC still garbage pump.

Not a hater,just a realist,being a hater implies jealousy...and im certainly not jealous of that pump.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You not running 4 cards anymore?
> DDC still garbage pump.


So is the D5







Hot, huge, noisy, vibrates like a kiddy ride at the grocery store. Your pump is as bad as you say a ddc is.

Changing, need more vram









edit: the 590s sold quickly. Faster than I had anticipated but I did make a bit of cash to maybe go quad, but a budget quad


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> ...opinions vary...


They certainly do. I prefer the square-edged monolith look of the Corsair 800D.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> They certainly do. I prefer the square-edged monolith look of the *Corsair 800D.*










Brings back memories. Mine was entered in MOTM and though it was unique I came in in 5th place. Mind you, MOTM back then was huge. I think there were 15 participants that month and so 5th ain't bad considering the masterpieces that were there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So is the D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hot, huge, noisy, vibrates like a kiddy ride at the grocery store. Your pump is as bad as you say a ddc is.
> Changing, need more vram


Huge,yes.
hot and noisy? No.
Reliable? Yes

Its my favorite pump for good reason and it starts with no problems.....unlike your DDC that you have now....

The one in this z77 is as quiet as a grave,i had to keep checking it to see if it was actually running.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So is the D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hot, huge, noisy, vibrates like a kiddy ride at the grocery store. Your pump is as bad as you say a ddc is.
> Changing, need more vram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: the 590s sold quickly. Faster than I had anticipated but I did make a bit of cash to maybe go quad, but a budget quad


I'll shoot a vid of my pump later and we'll see if it "vibrates like a kiddy ride..."


----------



## NewHighScore

Hahah while you can certainly hear and feel the vibration while the d5 is on 5 in a bay res it definitely doesn't vibrate like a quarter kiddy ride at the mall. It is only noticeable in a silent environment when you put your ear right next to the PC.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Werm,just read this thread and see the DDC get a facefull......

http://www.overclock.net/t/1290727/whats-your-choice-d5-or-ddc-pumps/0_20

We all wrong?


----------



## Michalius

Wermad, don't make up your mind after getting a single product that isn't working as intended.

I was still waiting for your seal of approval on the 35x. Have you thought about RMA'ing it?

That being said, I remounted my bay res with some anti-vibration stuff and my D5 at the '5' setting is running near silent. My 1200RPM fans are louder than it.


----------



## wermad

I owned one.got rid of it asap. I've owned a few ddc 3.2 and this time around I took the advise of someone to get a 35x. Bad choice. Sticking with a 355. D5 and 35x are blacklisted in my world.

I have ran a ddc 3.2 with quad sli, so its far more proven in book then a D5 and 35x. Ill go with what has worked for me









Ive noticed that thread has become a D5 haven ever since it got a new moderator....and much more anti ddc. Where as you go outside and its pretty even between both.

/arguement.


----------



## Arm3nian

Can someone clear things up for me.

What exactly is the d5 pump, is it mine, just another name? (swiftech MCP655). And what is a pump top for it, does it just allow a cylinder res to be directly connected to it?

Also, I stripped the tubings and fittings and will start over, since my original loop was a disgrace... to everything.



I can rotate the rads to make the fittings on the other side, there is another 480 rad in the back, same layout. The bay res can be mounted as high as I want as long as it does not interfere with the rad. I'm not sure where to put the pump for optimal flow. The res and pump obviously can't be the highest point because the two rads will always be at the top, I could mount the two rads on the bottom but then the airflow would be bad. The things that hurt my loop are the massive vertical climbs from the gpu/cpu to rad area. I need to make up some pressure by putting the pump higher I guess. Help please


----------



## mvh11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Looks good yes but he is stuck leaving the side panel off the entire time just so he can show off everything.


A quick full acrylic side panel would fix that. I actually would have thought he made one by now... but then again, you don't want to risk condensation on the side panel either.


----------



## Willhemmens

I run dual 355s. They're certainly not the quietest pumps you can buy but there is plenty of power. I always run them at 12v but I may try lowering it in the future. I would go dual d5 if I had the money and run them real slow.

I bought a D5 once. Died after 30 seconds. Sent it back. And no, it wasn't user error.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I owned one.got rid of it asap. I've owned a few ddc 3.2 and this time around I took the advise of someone to get a 35x. Bad choice. Sticking with a 355. D5 and 35x are blacklisted in my world.
> I have ran a ddc 3.2 with quad sli, so its far more proven in book then a D5 and 35x. Ill go with what has worked for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ive noticed that thread has become a D5 haven ever since it got a new moderator....and much more anti ddc. Where as you go outside and its pretty even between both.
> /arguement.


Its not an argument Werm,its a discussion.

D5's dont do this for example...


----------



## wermad

Anyone running a V2 HD6950/6970 series block?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Can someone clear things up for me.
> What exactly is the d5 pump, is it mine, just another name? (swiftech MCP655). And what is a pump top for it, does it just allow a cylinder res to be directly connected to it?
> Also, I stripped the tubings and fittings and will start over, since my original loop was a disgrace... to everything.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can rotate the rads to make the fittings on the other side, there is another 480 rad in the back, same layout. The bay res can be mounted as high as I want as long as it does not interfere with the rad. I'm not sure where to put the pump for optimal flow. The res and pump obviously can't be the highest point because the two rads will always be at the top, I could mount the two rads on the bottom but then the airflow would be bad. The things that hurt my loop are the massive vertical climbs from the gpu/cpu to rad area. I need to make up some pressure by putting the pump higher I guess. Help please


D5 is just the generic name for the type of pump. There are several different brands of D5 (your MCP655 as well as my VPP655). The pump top not only aids in aesthetics but actually increases flow pressure and is a nice addition to any D5 (along with the purely cosmetic mod kit). I have my BP res directly mounted to the pump top of my VPP655 with a male-to-male fitting and it looks fantastic!


----------



## Ceadderman

I think werm is only running Tri atm, not quad. I could be wrong but last I heard he was running dual with designs on Tri but failed GPU relegated him back to Dual. Knowing werm though, he got another GPU to replace Failware.









So yeah DDC with Dual should be just fine. DDC-1T should be able to handle that. The problem I'm considering here is heat. The higher the capability of the DDC the more heat it generates. If he doesn't have the room for dual DDC, no way he has the room for D5. So you have to take this into account when considering options.

We're all right about our thoughts. D5 is better than DDC. But if you don't have the room it's not gonna matter because D5 is pretty sizeable. Just look at the before and after of Kcuestags fine rig. That D5 dwarfs the 4.0 jingway he was running. The Jingway is just slightly larger than the DDC. DDC-1T doesn't require modification to mount in tight spaces unlike the more spendy DDC 3** and 400 series pumps. Heck if he had to get two of them he could put one at the base of the system and mount another to a Radiator. Between the two they should more than aptly handle whatever flow rate his system would require. And he could do it for the same price imho. Tho I'm pretty sure the DDC, 1T can handle it on it's own. My longest tube is at the bottom coming off the pump. Well over a foot of tubing pushing upward and into the FC block. That's quite a stretch and it's pushing up against gravity through the FC block and into the CPU block into another long tube and into the Radiator. Yes Gravity assists the refill but in looking at this setup I'm amazed that it has enough flow at 3/4 voltage to make the circuit and keep the system so cool.









My intentions with a dual DDC setup was to run both simultaneously but the 2nd one is unnecessary and so it's emergency backup now.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I had sli 590s, switching to something else. definitely tri and possibly quad







I have enough rad power for four hot gpu so I'm not changing anything for my cooling setup.


----------



## Michalius

Loving my 4GB 670s in 3-way. Such a great card for multi-card setups thanks to the small PCB and low power draw.


----------



## Aphid

I'm using:

- XSPC EX240 rad
- Dual bay XSPC reservoir/D5 pump combo
- XSPC Raystorm cpu block
- XSPC/Bitspower silver compression fittings
- Clear Primochill 7/16"ID 5/8"OD tubing
- Mayhem's clear/uv blue dye (Looks super weak in pictures, looks great in person)
- EK clear EKoolant premix
- 2 x Scythe GTs on the EX240
- 2 x XSPC 1650rpm fans in front
- 3 x Bitfenix Spectre white LED fans (side panels)
- NZXT Sentry Mix fan controller for all fans
- 2 x UV CCFLs
- 5mm UV LEDs (for in the reservoir)
- 3mm UV LEDs (in the Raystorm)
- 60cm white LED flex strip (behind from bezel)

System is:

- ASUS M2N-sli Deluxe
- AMD Phenom XII 955BE 3.2Ghz @ 4.1Ghz, 1.5725VCore
- Kingston generic DDR2 8gb
- Reference GTX470 607/1214MHz core/shader, 1674MHz mem @ 690/1380MHz core/shader, 1750MHz mem
- Corsair AX850 PSU

Soon I'll be getting a Raystorm block for my GTX470 combined with an AX120 rad (the new one that's supposed to be as good as the RX, but slimmer)


----------



## Hooded

I'm currently using a DDC 3.25 18watt pump with an XS-PC Dual bay res. It runs near silent at full speed. I have it slowed down to 3600 rpm, via my G-Vans controller and it's silent.

I just ordered a second DDC 3.25 18 watt and a dual pump version of the same res.

Stll looking for a seconf 6970 to run a crossfire setup.

The D5 pumps are awesome too.

it's all about how they are setup.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> They certainly do. I prefer the square-edged monolith look of the Corsair 800D.


Oh Yeahhhh,







Now we're talkin'...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'll shoot a vid of my pump later and we'll see if it "vibrates like a kiddy ride..."


Oh Yeahhhh,







Now we're talkin'...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*


Oh Yeahhhh,







Now we're talkin'... (Look at all that frickin, unexplored, potentially fillable, coolable, moddable real-estate!)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not an argument Werm,its a discussion.
> D5's dont do this for example...


Now I'm curious. Why do you say "D5's dont do this for example..."? Is it because you have never seen a D5 do that, or is it electronically and physically impossible for a D5 to do that? Because I've never seen a DDC do that (until now)...
It kind of looks like electrolysis that has compromised the integrity of the surrounding material over a period of time. That would lead me to believe there was defective material in that specific pump's constructive make-up, which could potentially happen with any pump.
Or possibly that pump is just really, really, really old???? LOL


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Loving my 4GB 670s in 3-way. Such a great card for multi-card setups thanks to the small PCB and low power draw.


Everbuddy loves a good 3-way...SLI/CFX that is


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Loving my 4GB 670s in 3-way. Such a great card for multi-card setups thanks to the small PCB and low power draw.


Tempting but I'm sure I'm not gonna hit more then 3gb on my triple screens and the 7970 is still cheaper then the 4gb 670. Still looking. I already shipped my 590s so I have to find something quickly







.

Down the road once the car has been paid off, I'm picking up three 1440 monitors


----------



## Michalius

I'd say that budgeting for 4GB with next-gen just around the corner is a good bet. But I doubt anyone in here is planning on keeping the same GPUs for over a year in their system









You definitely have the cooling room for the added watts on the 7970s.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Oh Yeahhhh,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we're talkin'...
> 
> Oh Yeahhhh,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we're talkin'...
> Oh Yeahhhh,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we're talkin'... (Look at all that frickin, unexplored, potentially fillable, coolable, moddable real-estate!)
> Now I'm curious. Why do you say "D5's dont do this for example..."? Is it because you have never seen a D5 do that, or is it electronically and physically impossible for a D5 to do that? Because I've never seen a DDC do that (until now)...
> It kind of looks like electrolysis that has compromised the integrity of the surrounding material over a period of time. That would lead me to believe there was defective material in that specific pump's constructive make-up, which could potentially happen with any pump.
> Or possibly that pump is just really, really, really old???? LOL


Electrolysis? On Plastic?
The MOSFETS melt the plastic because they get so hot. I have replaced many DDC boards for people,never once have i had a D5.....
Google it,there are many examples of this.
What was under the melty bit....


----------



## kyismaster

looks like its melted, I have a salt water aquarium and if you leave a submersible pump running dry it will burn out literally (melt) and electronically.

the ones I have are basically a magnetic shaft with a propeller which floats in a cylinder where the magnetic field would spin the shaft (( not mechanical )) so water is ment to sit in there and act as a cushion, however when you run it dry its just plastic on plastic friction.

Maybe I just have a specialty pump, or this is the case with all pumps, but the results are comparable to a dremel on acrylic lol.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Everbuddy loves a good 3-way...SLI/CFX that is


SLI/CFX, now why did you have to go and put limitations on a good thought,









Darlene


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

All pumps I've used have to have something to pump or they burn out....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not an argument Werm,its a discussion.
> D5's dont do this for example...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm curious. Why do you say "D5's dont do this for example..."? Is it because you have never seen a D5 do that, or is it electronically and physically impossible for a D5 to do that? Because I've never seen a DDC do that (until now)...
> It kind of looks like electrolysis that has compromised the integrity of the surrounding material over a period of time. That would lead me to believe there was defective material in that specific pump's constructive make-up, which could potentially happen with any pump.
> Or possibly that pump is just really, really, really old???? LOL
Click to expand...

Probably cause most D5s' have a metallic housing. Which if you get a DDC 400 heatsink kit from Koolance that would negate any possibility of the PCB overheating and melting the housing.









He's right though. I've never seen a D5 owner have that issue happen. As long as you have good airflow around your DDC the chances of it happening is between slim and none. But it has happened.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> SLI/CFX, now why did you have to go and put limitations on a good thought,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene



















A Modern Girl!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aphid*
> 
> I'm using:
> - XSPC EX240 rad
> - Dual bay XSPC reservoir/D5 pump combo
> - XSPC Raystorm cpu block
> - XSPC/Bitspower silver compression fittings
> - Clear Primochill 7/16"ID 5/8"OD tubing
> - Mayhem's clear/uv blue dye (Looks super weak in pictures, looks great in person)
> - EK clear EKoolant premix
> - 2 x Scythe GTs on the EX240
> - 2 x XSPC 1650rpm fans in front
> - 3 x Bitfenix Spectre white LED fans (side panels)
> - NZXT Sentry Mix fan controller for all fans
> - 2 x UV CCFLs
> - 5mm UV LEDs (for in the reservoir)
> - 3mm UV LEDs (in the Raystorm)
> - 60cm white LED flex strip (behind from bezel)
> System is:
> - ASUS M2N-sli Deluxe
> - AMD Phenom XII 955BE 3.2Ghz @ 4.1Ghz, 1.5725VCore
> - Kingston generic DDR2 8gb
> - Reference GTX470 607/1214MHz core/shader, 1674MHz mem @ 690/1380MHz core/shader, 1750MHz mem
> - Corsair AX850 PSU
> Soon I'll be getting a Raystorm block for my GTX470 combined with an AX120 rad (the new one that's supposed to be as good as the RX, but slimmer)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quot
> 
> 
> e]
> 
> Great to see someone else with an ANTEC 1100 case. I thought I was a lone wolf around here. I like the lights you put up front behind the two side vents. That's a great idea.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Everbuddy loves a good 3-way...SLI/CFX that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SLI/CFX, now why did you have to go and put limitations on a good thought,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Everbuddy loves a good 3-way...SLI/CFX that is


I got a dead link,







. Yes, I can't do anything less than 3-way for my screens








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I'd say that budgeting for 4GB with next-gen just around the corner is a good bet. But I doubt anyone in here is planning on keeping the same GPUs for over a year in their system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You definitely have the cooling room for the added watts on the 7970s.


I'm looking at three 7970s, or quad 580 3gb. I'm not supporting Nvidia's 6xx series due to their voltage limitation Nazi-ism.

I was super tempted to go quad 6970s or crossfire 6990. But I read a few build logs and crossed it off my list since crossfire lag is noticeable in quad on the 69xx series.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm looking at three 7970s, or quad 580 3gb. I'm not supporting Nvidia's 6xx series due to their voltage limitation Nazi-ism.
> I was super tempted to go quad 6970s or crossfire 6990. But I read a few build logs and crossed it off my list since crossfire lag is noticeable in quad on the 69xx series.


Definitely go with 7970's (or even 7950's if you're on a budget). 15-40% faster than a GTX 580 and consume less power.


----------



## Michalius

That being the case, I looooooooooooooove my 7970. It's such a beast card with so much OC potential. It gets my vote.

I've gone reference -> DCII -> RoG Matrix (arriving tomorrow, yay!). Can't say enough good things about it. Under water, it really shines too as the heat and noise goes bye bye.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Definitely go with 7970's (or even 7950's if you're on a budget). 15-40% faster than a GTX 580 and consume less power.


\

Slightly over my budget but if I can find them cheap and used blocks, I might be able to make it. Ever since Nvidia slapped the 680 in the face, used 7970 have crept up. I can probably wait for the December launch (if it is) of the 89xx series but I have yet to play my new games







.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nah, I'm going with a 355 (ddc 3.2). I was convinced on the 35x but honestly, it sucks. I may just have a bad one. But I'm scared in life to stay away from it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . DDC 3.2 FTW.
> I'm not doing D5 after owning a noisy and hot one. Mcp 355 has been the best I've used.
> Plus, I have no room for dual ddc(s) or a massive D5 in my case since its stuff full of Monsta rads. I have a couple of fans under my pump so need to play "ddc is hot" card which I still strongly feel its not that bad (its not worse than a D5 imho)


DDC3.2 is exactly the same as an MCP35X, just missing the PWM wire. They even share the same PCB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Huge,yes.
> hot and noisy? No.
> Reliable? Yes
> Its my favorite pump for good reason and it starts with no problems.....unlike your DDC that you have now....


The only pump I've ever had die that wasn't cause by my mistake was a D5. Although that was back in 2004.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> DDC3.2 is exactly the same as an MCP35X, just missing the PWM wire. They even share the same PCB.


I know, but this whole pwm is just smoke imho. Either that, or mine is bad. Anyways, I love the simplicity of the 355 (3.2) and it does work with a fan controller. I'm sure someone can fix it but the hassle has just shunned me away from looking at another 35x (same with the D5). I think its uprated due to the new top and the fact that it can operate at ~50% which is impossible on the 355 (cuts off ~75% but it hardly moves any water).

Bottom line, I don't want hassle. The 355 has proven to be reliable and hassle free. Sticking with that







.

Shot Koolance an email about the pmp-500. Still intrigued by that pump









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The only pump I've ever had die that wasn't cause by my mistake was a D5. Although that was back in 2004.


Was that a D4? or is the D5 that old?!?!?!


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bottom line, I don't want hassle. The 355 has proven to be reliable and hassle free. Sticking with that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thats a pretty small sample size to make any sound conclusions with.

Go with whatever you feel like and I agree that you can't go wrong with a 355 but all pumps have their pros and cons.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im still waiting for my PMP500...looking forward to testing it!
If you like your 3.2 then stick with it,everybody has their favourite.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im still waiting for my PMP500...looking forward to testing it!


Wow, customs delay?

I shot them an email if they plan to have this pump attach to their tube reservoirs. Awaiting an answer.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Great to see someone else with an ANTEC 1100 case. I thought I was a lone wolf around here. I like the lights you put up front behind the two side vents. That's a great idea.


hey mate come check out my 1100 build thread. watercooling-antec-1100


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Shot Koolance an email about the pmp-500. Still intrigued by that pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was that a D4? or is the D5 that old?!?!?!


It came out in 2004. I still have a pic of the setup.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It came out in 2004. I still have a pic of the setup.


Wow, nice to know









I do envy D5 owners as they have a ton of options to trick them out and make them look sharp. Still, current mantra: Function over Form









Looks like the DD order maybe a bust so time to start searching for new water hardware.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Still, current mantra: Function over Form


Isn't that usually a D5's owner's response?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It came out in 2004. I still have a pic of the setup.


Wow, your cable management skills have really improved over the years


----------



## Michalius

Note to self: Do not cross Wermad, you only get one chance!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Still, current mantra: Function over Form
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't that usually a D5's owner's response?
Click to expand...

Lol!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow, your cable management skills have really improved over the years


That was the second system I ever built. I was still a n00b back then.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I was rocking a Pentium 4 Sony Vaio in 2004! Didn't even know water cooling existed back then!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> SLI/CFX, now why did you have to go and put limitations on a good thought,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Wife was looking over my shoulder, so not so much a limitation as a quick recovery...


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Good save Mate. You mighta woken up minus your gentleman bits had you not caught that in time.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I was rocking a Pentium 4 Sony Vaio in 2004! Didn't even know water cooling existed back then!


People were doing it as early as '98. I was a devout Air guy myself cause I didn't have the system that required the extreme cooling. I thought anyone that had a water kit in their system was









I have to admit that I am gladly certifiable now.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

I learned about water cooling like..2 or so years ago. That wasn't long after I learned about what made different CPU's different and other PC basics.
I've come a long way.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Can someone clear things up for me.
> What exactly is the d5 pump, is it mine, just another name? (swiftech MCP655). And what is a pump top for it, does it just allow a cylinder res to be directly connected to it?
> Also, I stripped the tubings and fittings and will start over, since my original loop was a disgrace... to everything.
> 
> I can rotate the rads to make the fittings on the other side, there is another 480 rad in the back, same layout. The bay res can be mounted as high as I want as long as it does not interfere with the rad. I'm not sure where to put the pump for optimal flow. The res and pump obviously can't be the highest point because the two rads will always be at the top, I could mount the two rads on the bottom but then the airflow would be bad. The things that hurt my loop are the massive vertical climbs from the gpu/cpu to rad area. I need to make up some pressure by putting the pump higher I guess. Help please


Yes it is also called a D5 and this is the pump top i use and yes a tube res will directly connect to it -

pump top -

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27699

Fitting needed to thread a tube res directly in to it -

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_830_829&products_id=28344

I know its a crappy pic but these is my Bitspower tube res threaded directly in to the Bitspower pump top with the fitting i linked you 2 -


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I learned about water cooling like..2 or so years ago. That wasn't long after I learned about what made different CPU's different and other PC basics.
> I've come a long way.


Oh Hi philly, i didn't know you became a performance-PC rep.








you might even get to read my email. hehe.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I was rocking a Pentium 4 Sony Vaio in 2004! Didn't even know water cooling existed back then!


I was sporting a (







) Compaq desktop w/ a 17" crt and a Pentium 4 2.4ghz







, I dropped in an old pci ATI card which was more than enough for Freespace II (







). I had given up my hobby back then. In the late 90s, I was rocking a Celeron A overclocked to match a highend Pentium III







. No water, just air back then. I learned about water cooling a few years but took the plunge in 09.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Very interesting conversation about pumps.. I have never owned a D5. But I can say my two mcp 350s that I run in series have never ran loud or hot as far as I can tell. I'm running aquacomputer tops on them, and with the 2 pumps, 12 enermax tb silence fans, and one bgears blaster fan, I can't even hear my whole rig over my xbox. It's virtually silent. Which is what I was going for


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Just added a 240 to my loop. I cant get the fact out that i have 13 fans now. Just too much cables in the back and for something to go wrong.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Very interesting conversation about pumps.. I have never owned a D5. But I can say my two mcp 350s that I run in series have never ran loud or hot as far as I can tell. I'm running aquacomputer tops on them, and with the 2 pumps, 12 enermax tb silence fans, and one bgears blaster fan, I can't even hear my whole rig over my xbox. It's virtually silent. Which is what I was going for


Cant stop looking at your avatar









D5 vs DDC is like Amd Vs Intel, Amd vs Nvidia, Ford Vs Chevy. Its a never ending war of words, but hey, without the other, we wouldn't have these lovely conversions


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah that Avvy has me thinking ahead to Xmas when I get to break out the Santa outfit for the GF and munch her cookies. ... Did I say that out loud? I mean uh ah that Red and Green build is so nom nom nom nom nom nom 










~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cant stop looking at your avatar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D5 vs DDC is like Amd Vs Intel, Amd vs Nvidia, Ford Vs Chevy. Its a never ending war of words, but hey, without the other, we wouldn't have these lovely conversions


Thank you sir! Full screen mode!

















The funny thing is I had no idea the strength of opinion for either pump lol I figured it was a simple decision based on what your setup required and didn't require, boy was I wrong


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Thank you sir! Full screen mode!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I had no idea the strength of opinion for either pump lol I figured it was a simple decision based on what your setup required and didn't require, boy was I wrong


i see you use the enermax fans, how are they?
i have the PWM version and for me they are not really quiet above 1200rpm.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Yes it is also called a D5 and this is the pump top i use and yes a tube res will directly connect to it -
> pump top -
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27699
> Fitting needed to thread a tube res directly in to it -
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_830_829&products_id=28344
> I know its a crappy pic but these is my Bitspower tube res threaded directly in to the Bitspower pump top with the fitting i linked you 2 -


800D loveliness








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Thank you sir! Full screen mode!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I had no idea the strength of opinion for either pump lol I figured it was a simple decision based on what your setup required and didn't require, boy was I wrong


That is sweet


----------



## s0up2up

So Dual D5's or Dual D35X's? I know what B-Negatives fav is but what are others opinions?

Also anyone know what Pump Tops are best?

Are there any good Dual Pump Tops? Want a Tube Res, otherwise I would go down the Bay Res path...


----------



## Rickles

dual 35xs would be pretty hot i think.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> So Dual D5's or Dual D35X's? I know what B-Negatives fav is but what are others opinions?
> 
> Also anyone know what Pump Tops are best?
> 
> Are there any good Dual Pump Tops? Want a Tube Res, otherwise I would go down the Bay Res path...


Or Dual DDC-1Ts'?

I think it's all relative really.. It depends on how big your loop is and how many restrictions by what you can afford and whether your billfold can weather the storm.

Two DDC 1T with EK Dual DDC v2 top alone is about $115. That's the cheapest you're gonna get off with.

Dual 35x and same top you're looking at $165 or more

Dual D5 and EK Dual D5 top you're looking at better than $200

And that's before you add dress up kits for any of them.

But really at this point only Dual D5 is more for blingage factor imho. They are reliable but they damned well better be at the higher price and lets face it we're water coolers price really isn't a concern. Not even to guys like me who had to piecemeal everything together. Some of us get lucky with good friends to help out, some of us pay whatever the cost will be and chalk it up as eye candy.

My personal thought here is go cheapest because 2 pumps should handle most anything you throw at them. If they can't you have a blockage somewhars in the loop.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

I have dual D5's in one rig and a single MCP35x in the other. I like both pumps, don't think you can wrong either way.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Hi!

I have read every page from the first, and it has taken a bloody long time









I am TOTALLY convinced that I want to watercool my entire build, and was looking at getting some pointers on my concept.

Thanks in advance guys!


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quick question (maybe not...):
> I've got enough rads to add my GPU to my loop (two 280mm rads, check my signature for more info on my loop) and I was wondering what would be the cheapest way to get my GPU wet.
> I don't intend to go crazy on overclocking (actually, I wouldn't even mind not overclocking at all), I just want my 560 Ti to shut up.
> I'm not looking for anything pretty or whatnot (although obviously if I have the choice between two solutions around the same price I'll pick the prettiest). I just want my GPU to be dead silent as my CPU has become.
> I'm not going to keep this card, it has a "unique" (in a bad way) PCB and it doesn't really fulfill my needs. It'll probably be gone by Christmas.


Steelkevin if you want a nice universal I would recomend the XSPC Raystorm universal block. I have it on my 7970 with just ram sinks and my gpu never goes above 48-50 nomatter how much load I put on it. I don't have any fans mounted on the gpu itself just alot of heatsim=nks on all the ram and vrm parts and good airflow through mycase does the job quit well. Also the Raystorm is a very nice looking block. It comes with 2 blue leds and you can change them to whatever color matches your build better easily.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> 
> Hi!
> I have read every page from the first, and it has taken a bloody long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am TOTALLY convinced that I want to watercool my entire build, and was looking at getting some pointers on my concept.
> Thanks in advance guys!


Had that layout with my tj08, before changing to my current layout and it works fine


----------



## MetallicAcid

Sweet!

What is your current set up?


----------



## fakeblood

Res > Pump > 180 > 120 > cpu > gtx580 > gtx580 > res


----------



## ChudBensonfist

Hi, this the second revision after the CPU hose came off and sploshed its contents down the boards.................


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChudBensonfist*
> 
> Hi, this the second revision after the CPU hose came off and sploshed its contents down the boards.................
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Work..







... And That Avatar..


----------



## IT Diva

It's always fun to think back to the old days, and rehash the great debates, like OC'd Celeron 300A versus P3, or D5 versus 35X, and think about how far GPUs have come . . . .

I like DDCs, particularly 35X's, for higher restriction loops and D5's for lesser restrictive loops needing good flow rates.

My switch 810 build has triple 35X's, while the external cooling module for the tri/quad GPU cooling has triple D5's.

I'm really looking forward to swapping out the D5's for the new PWM ones, so that I can control the cooling module pumps with another one of my DIY manual PWM controllers like I have in the switch.

Darlene





Here's a classic from the old days:

This was my workstation from the late 90's, when win98 was brand new and multi monitor support began. 1 primary AGP card and 4 additional cards, as you still needed 1 slot for a NIC card and 1 for a sound card back then. With its 1GHz P3, it was truely an Extreme system in its day. The system in the background was just a triple display. Friends started calling my apartment mission control.


----------



## MiiX

Which is better?

Option 1:
2x120-60 7FPI
1x120-30 14FPI

Option 2:
1x180-35 13FPI
1x120-60 7FPI


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's a classic from the old days:
> This was my workstation from the late 90's, when win98 was brand new and multi monitor support began. 1 primary AGP card and 4 additional cards, as you still needed 1 slot for a NIC card and 1 for a sound card back then. With its 1GHz P3, it was truely an Extreme system in its day. The system in the background was just a triple display. Friends started calling my apartment mission control.


I love that Shot.. Must have been Toasty Warm in there..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Which is better?
> Option 1:
> 2x120-60 7FPI
> 1x120-30 14FPI
> Option 2:
> 1x180-35 13FPI
> 1x120-60 7FPI


What are trying to cool?


----------



## teamrushpntball

Miix size and FPI are not the only factors to consider. Option 2 technically gives more surface area but 180mm fans will not perform as well as say a pair of GT15's.

Would recommend option 1 with an Alphacool ST30 120x120mm (30mm thick, best performer with low speed fans radiator as tested by Martin) and an Alphacool UT60 120x240mm (60mm thick, best all around fan speed radiator)

Edited for spelling


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> What are trying to cool?


Going to cool a GTX 670 and I guess a 3570k, depends on my cash flow at that moment.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Miix size and FPI are not the only factors to consider. Option 2 technically gives more surface area but 180mm fans will not perform as well as say a pair of GT15's.
> Would recommend option 1 with an Alphacool ST30 120x120mm (30mm thick, best performer with low speed fans radiator as tested by Martin) and an Alphacool UT60 120x240mm (60mm thick, best all around fan speed radiator)
> Edited for spelling


Well, problem is that buying from outside Norway(Where I live) is pretty expensive and i dont want to pay huge shipping bills if its DOA or similar.
So I only got a few radiators I "can" choose which includes the Magicool, EK, Coolgate and a few Phobya's


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Going to cool a GTX 670 and I guess a 3570k, depends on my cash flow at that moment.
> Well, problem is that buying from outside Norway(Where I live) is pretty expensive and i dont want to pay huge shipping bills if its DOA or similar.
> So I only got a few radiators I "can" choose which includes the Magicool, EK, Coolgate and a few Phobya's


I agree.. Option 1.. As far as the Brand..I am a AlphaCool Fan or Hardware Labs.. You will be fine with those available to you ...
Good Luck with it..


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Steelkevin if you want a nice universal I would recomend the XSPC Raystorm universal block. I have it on my 7970 with just ram sinks and my gpu never goes above 48-50 nomatter how much load I put on it. I don't have any fans mounted on the gpu itself just alot of heatsim=nks on all the ram and vrm parts and good airflow through mycase does the job quit well. Also the Raystorm is a very nice looking block. It comes with 2 blue leds and you can change them to whatever color matches your build better easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1106522/


I like the badges, classy.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I agree.. Option 1.. As far as the Brand..I am a AlphaCool Fan or Hardware Labs.. You will be fine with those available to you ...
> Good Luck with it..


Found a shop that sells them, only problem they are not in stock. Sent a mail to them, if I'm lucky they are getting some in


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i see you use the enermax fans, how are they?
> i have the PWM version and for me they are not really quiet above 1200rpm.


Mine are the low speed versions. I think it's 900rpm? But I'm running them all on black ice sr1 rads so it's a perfect match. I can't hear them at all. The bgears fan I have in the front I have hooked up to a controller and if I turn that one up, it's all I can hear in my entire room hahahah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 800D loveliness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is sweet


Thanks wermad


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I like the badges, classy.


Thank You kyismaster very much. This is a work in progress which is nearing completion. I just posted that pic so the other member could see the Raystorm gpu block with the heatsinks. I just finished doing a few upgrades to it so that's why the top half of the psu cover isn't on in the pic. Also not on in the pic are the genuine WWII medals I have that hang acrooss the top off of the 360 top rad. Everything in this build except for the 3 shiney dog tags are genuine WWII era that used to belong to a friend of mines grandfather who was in WWII.


----------



## audioholic

not a custom loop..but


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> not a custom loop..but


Nice!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice PSU cover Audioholic


----------



## audioholic

Thanks guys...just made it out of some old scrap steel I found. Luckily it had some nice edges on it. My cuts aren't the straightest but it works:thumb:


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> not a custom loop..but


Is your PCB bending upward?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Is your PCB bending upward?


Sure looks like it.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Steelkevin if you want a nice universal I would recomend the XSPC Raystorm universal block. I have it on my 7970 with just ram sinks and my gpu never goes above 48-50 nomatter how much load I put on it. I don't have any fans mounted on the gpu itself just alot of heatsim=nks on all the ram and vrm parts and good airflow through mycase does the job quit well. Also the Raystorm is a very nice looking block. It comes with 2 blue leds and you can change them to whatever color matches your build better easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1106522/


Thanks but I don't really like the Raystorm blocks and where I live they're at least 10€more expensive than the EK VGA Supremacy ones.

I think I'm just going to wait until EK come up with anything good for the HD 7*** series. I might even have to wait for the HD 8000s.
Either that or I'll wake up tomorrow and order an EK universal block + heatsinks etc...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> not a custom loop..but


Your card looks seriously warped. Like the most I have ever seen. Might wanna let that thing hang how it wants to


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Your card looks seriously warped. Like the most I have ever seen. Might wanna let that thing hang how it wants to


better up then down I always say


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you sir! Full screen mode!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I had no idea the strength of opinion for either pump lol I figured it was a simple decision based on what your setup required and didn't require, boy was I wrong


Awesome set up! Love the glow tube!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's always fun to think back to the old days, and rehash the great debates, like OC'd Celeron 300A versus P3, or D5 versus 35X, and think about how far GPUs have come . . . .
> I like DDCs, particularly 35X's, for higher restriction loops and D5's for lesser restrictive loops needing good flow rates.
> My switch 810 build has triple 35X's, while the external cooling module for the tri/quad GPU cooling has triple D5's.
> I'm really looking forward to swapping out the D5's for the new PWM ones, so that I can control the cooling module pumps with another one of my DIY manual PWM controllers like I have in the switch.
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a classic from the old days:
> This was my workstation from the late 90's, when win98 was brand new and multi monitor support began. 1 primary AGP card and 4 additional cards, as you still needed 1 slot for a NIC card and 1 for a sound card back then. With its 1GHz P3, it was truely an Extreme system in its day. The system in the background was just a triple display. Friends started calling my apartment mission control.


Looking so sweetie!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> better up then down I always say


you just ask for a pun









anyway, i see a lot of peeps here are using the Enermax fans. how are they?


----------



## Arm3nian

Can you mount a D5 in any direction? Lets say I want to drill it to my mobo tray, the inlet would be facing north and the outlet would be facing towards you. Would it affect flow? And it wouldn't short anything on the motherboard because of standoffs right?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Can you mount a D5 in any direction? Lets say I want to drill it to my mobo tray, the inlet would be facing north and the outlet would be facing towards you. Would it affect flow? And it wouldn't short anything on the motherboard because of standoffs right?


It fine in any orientation.
Im not sure where you are going with the standoff question tho.....


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Can you mount a D5 in any direction? Lets say I want to drill it to my mobo tray, the inlet would be facing north and the outlet would be facing towards you. Would it affect flow? And it wouldn't short anything on the motherboard because of standoffs right?


D5 works great in that orientation. That's how mine is mounted....you can get a better look at it in my pics. Also I guess you're asking if it causes any kind of electrical shorts with the motherboard mounted like that? No.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChudBensonfist*
> 
> Hi, this the second revision after the CPU hose came off and sploshed its contents down the boards.................
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pix


Looking good!
Every time I see this case, I can't help but think that this belongs more in some martian container room/complex than here. This just looks so... Space'd.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChudBensonfist*
> 
> Hi, this the second revision after the CPU hose came off and sploshed its contents down the boards.................
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


is that the all metal version of the case?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Looking good!
> Every time I see this case, I can't help but think that this belongs more in some martian container room/complex than here. This just looks so... Space'd.


You should see the proper Level 10.



I think these were going for £700 at one point.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can't even imagine trying to water cool that case B. Would be an awesome build tho if someone did it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can't even imagine trying to water cool that case B. Would be an awesome build tho if someone did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'd just put holes in to route the tubes out back and mount a 1080 or 1260.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can't even imagine trying to water cool that case B. Would be an awesome build tho if someone did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It would be hellish...without some copper tube...








If you can get one cheap,im game for it.


----------



## golfergolfer

I need some help :/







Took apart my loop to do my MATX Prodigy mod (found here) and this is what I found... Any way to go about cleaning the block?


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> I need some help :/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took apart my loop to do my MATX Prodigy mod (found here) and this is what I found... Any way to go about cleaning the block?


Sure, see the hex screws next to the pom? Unscrew those and the block will come apart. use ketchup or lemon juice or vinegar to clean it to a nice copper finish.

As for the fittings and areas that are circular and hard to clean, I use on of these.



The non metal kind.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Then send those fittings back.


----------



## ZealotKi11er




----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then send those fittings back.


He is just being negative.... again. What tubing were you using GolferGolfer?


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Sure, see the hex screws next to the pom? Unscrew those and the block will come apart. use ketchup or lemon juice or vinegar to clean it to a nice copper finish.
> As for the fittings and areas that are circular and hard to clean, I use on of these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The non metal kind.


I had a feeling I could take it apart by using the hex screws and I will have to clean it all up. Thanks for the help








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then send those fittings back.










But I like them...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> He is just being negative.... again. What tubing were you using GolferGolfer?


I was using PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing I have a feeling it is not the best stuff :/

Thanks for the fast answers guys


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> I had a feeling I could take it apart by using the hex screws and I will have to clean it all up. Thanks for the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I like them...
> I was using PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing I have a feeling it is not the best stuff :/
> Thanks for the fast answers guys


You want to keep peeling fittings in your rig?
Its upto you but i wouldnt tolerate that,all the peeling has to go somewhere,lets hope its not all over the bearing surfaces of your pump eh.....

EDIT: Those fittings are peeling in the bore of those fittings? or have I smoked too much?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> He is just being negative.... again. What tubing were you using GolferGolfer?


Tubing is not the fault here.....


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> name="golfergolfer"I need some help :/
> 
> Took apart my loop to do my MATX Prodigy mod (found here) and this is what I found... Any way to go about cleaning the block?


hey i had a similar prob with my bay res acrylic being a bit threaded, i used plumbers tape wrapped around the barb thread to keep it water tight. it works


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You want to keep peeling fittings in your rig?
> Its upto you but i wouldnt tolerate that,all the peeling has to go somewhere,lets hope its not all over the bearing surfaces of your pump eh.....
> Tubing is not the fault here.....


Ah yes this is true... I didnt think about that part of it







I dont want to use fittings like this but I dont have enough money for new fittings







So I am afraid I dont really have a choice... Damn now I am kinda worried about my pump and stuff I should go take a look at it...


----------



## teamrushpntball

Ugh I have a dilemma guys. Just placed an order for some ColdZero custom TJ07 parts and now I can't decide to go ahead and order my black and yellow MDPC sleeve or order my last few watercooling pieces (480mm radiator to replace my 360 in the base, single link bridge to get rid of my 2 90*fittings, actual radiator mount instead of just wedging it in on a piece of foam, few other little things). What do you guys think?

Here's my rig at the moment:



And yeah all that aluminum inside will be black soon. Either getting painted or getting replaced with ColdZero parts.

Edit for being a briar and leaving off two g's while spelling. Wedgin and gettin gotta love the hick slipping into my typing.


----------



## audioholic

THANKS FOR NOTICING that guys!! I really never noticed it because of the way I sit at the desk. It was the power wires that were just pushing up on the card. I got it straightened out now


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> THANKS FOR NOTICING that guys!! I really never noticed it because of the way I sit at the desk. It was the power wires that were just pushing up on the card. I got it straightened out now


That's good! Stress like that can't be good for the PCB or the slot..


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Ugh I have a dilemma guys. Just placed an order for some ColdZero custom TJ07 parts and now I can't decide to go ahead and order my black and yellow MDPC sleeve or order my last few watercooling pieces (480mm radiator to replace my 360 in the base, single link bridge to get rid of my 2 90*fittings, actual radiator mount instead of just wedging it in on a piece of foam, few other little things). What do you guys think?
> 
> Here's my rig at the moment:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah all that aluminum inside will be black soon. Either getting painted or getting replaced with ColdZero parts.
> 
> Edit for being a briar and leaving off two g's while spelling. Wedgin and gettin gotta love the hick slipping into my typing.


So you want to choose between getting the sleeving now, or the watercooling upgrades?
I'd suggest getting the rad and mounts, etc. now. That way you can get your 480 rad properly setup.
Leave the sleeving project for later.

You won't be able to replace all the unpainted parts with black versions, but at least the ColdZero parts that you can get will save on some of the painting.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EDIT: Those fittings are peeling in the bore of those fittings? or have I smoked too much?
> Tubing is not the fault here.....


Yea, I looked at those pics again and it sure looks like the fitting is peeling, you might want to check PH levels?? And maybe you (and I) should consider different fittings.


----------



## Arm3nian

My new loop, I like it much better than my previous. I mounted the pump on the motherboard back cover, since it is easily removable and screw-up proof. I drilled 2 holes, put 2 motherboard screws in and used 2 standoffs as a nut to tighten it from the back LOL.

Anyways, it goes res>pump>cpu>rad>gpu>rad>res. I will take a higher quality photo with my camera once im done, I used my phone for this as it is beta stage.

Is there any particular way to bleed with a bay res? When I start my pump there is a flushing sound, I am guessing that is the air. How should I bleed it, tilt the case back and forth? Also, how should I play with the pump speed, goes from 1-5. And should I leave the res cap on when bleeding? One more thing, how will I know when there is no air left, or at least most of it is gone. Thanks before hand.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Yea, I looked at those pics again and it sure looks like the fitting is peeling, you might want to check PH levels?? And maybe you (and I) should consider different fittings.


Does this refer to B NEGATIVE or me? also the bore?


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Does this refer to B NEGATIVE or me? also the bore?


Both, the bore is the inside. Bore of the fitting and / or bore of the thread. Is the paint coming off the only the outside of the threads or inside the fitting as well??

Lots more pics pls.


----------



## CircuitFreak

Had to redo the fittings because my rotary fittings would leak if they got tweaked at all from the tube angle. Air cooled pump FTW.


----------



## s0up2up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or Dual DDC-1Ts'?
> I think it's all relative really.. It depends on how big your loop is and how many restrictions by what you can afford and whether your billfold can weather the storm.
> Two DDC 1T with EK Dual DDC v2 top alone is about $115. That's the cheapest you're gonna get off with.
> Dual 35x and same top you're looking at $165 or more
> Dual D5 and EK Dual D5 top you're looking at better than $200
> And that's before you add dress up kits for any of them.
> But really at this point only Dual D5 is more for blingage factor imho. They are reliable but they damned well better be at the higher price and lets face it we're water coolers price really isn't a concern. Not even to guys like me who had to piecemeal everything together. Some of us get lucky with good friends to help out, some of us pay whatever the cost will be and chalk it up as eye candy.
> My personal thought here is go cheapest because 2 pumps should handle most anything you throw at them. If they can't you have a blockage somewhars in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Cheers for the reply Ceaddarman. Will be originally be cooling a 3820 (Waiting for IB-E), dual 7970's (with a mind of going triple 8970's when they ship), with 480 and 360 rads, so will I need two pumps to maintain a decent flowrate?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Both, the bore is the inside. Bore of the fitting and / or bore of the thread. Is the paint coming off the only the outside of the threads or inside the fitting as well??
> Lots more pics pls.


This ^^

I thought it looked like the bores were peeling myself.


----------



## She loved E

one of the first shots of my loop:



full build here (in progress but getting close!): Compact Splash


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Cheers for the reply Ceaddarman. Will be originally be cooling a 3820 (Waiting for IB-E), dual 7970's (with a mind of going triple 8970's when they ship), with 480 and 360 rads, so will I need two pumps to maintain a decent flowrate?


In my sig is a link to what you can roughly expect from pumps.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 
> My new loop, I like it much better than my previous. I mounted the pump on the motherboard back cover, since it is easily removable and screw-up proof. I drilled 2 holes, put 2 motherboard screws in and used 2 standoffs as a nut to tighten it from the back LOL.
> Anyways, it goes res>pump>cpu>rad>gpu>rad>res. I will take a higher quality photo with my camera once im done, I used my phone for this as it is beta stage.
> Is there any particular way to bleed with a bay res? When I start my pump there is a flushing sound, I am guessing that is the air. How should I bleed it, tilt the case back and forth? Also, how should I play with the pump speed, goes from 1-5. And should I leave the res cap on when bleeding? One more thing, how will I know when there is no air left, or at least most of it is gone. Thanks before hand.


hey man. firstly it looks like the tube coming from ur res to ur pump goes up before it gets to the pump. you want that tube to be at least level, if not angled down toward the pump, so the res is feeding the pump via gravity. this will ensure the pump have fluid in it and will help with bleeding. Also, *** are you doing with a bay res in that case?!? you have all that room man get a massive tube res and have it direct feeding your pump!!! youll get rid of all that tubing between pump and res and itll look cleaner and work alot better.


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 
> My new loop, I like it much better than my previous. I mounted the pump on the motherboard back cover, since it is easily removable and screw-up proof. I drilled 2 holes, put 2 motherboard screws in and used 2 standoffs as a nut to tighten it from the back LOL.
> Anyways, it goes res>pump>cpu>rad>gpu>rad>res. I will take a higher quality photo with my camera once im done, I used my phone for this as it is beta stage.
> Is there any particular way to bleed with a bay res? When I start my pump there is a flushing sound, I am guessing that is the air. How should I bleed it, tilt the case back and forth? Also, how should I play with the pump speed, goes from 1-5. And should I leave the res cap on when bleeding? One more thing, how will I know when there is no air left, or at least most of it is gone. Thanks before hand.


More room than you know what to do with LOL

I would a gree that the pump should be feed by gravity.

I don't understand why you would run striaght from your pump to your cpu. Your loop would run cooler longer if you went from the Pump - Rad - GPU - Rad - CPU - Res - Pump. Right now your taking the heat from your pump ad dumping into your CPU block.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> More room than you know what to do with LOL
> 
> I would a gree that the pump should be feed by gravity.
> 
> I don't understand why you would run striaght from your pump to your cpu. Your loop would run cooler longer if you went from the Pump - Rad - GPU - Rad - CPU - Res - Pump. Right now your taking the heat from your pump ad dumping into your CPU block.


I am pretty sure it has been stated a million times around here that loop order does not affect temps.


----------



## chino1974

Guys I have another question. I have the return line from the last radgoing to the top of my cylinder res. Now my dilema is this when I shut it offI hear the rads gurgeling as the water runs down the line and into the res and air replaces the water. Every time I start my rig up it takes a few seconds for the air to be pushed back out of it. Is that dangerous for my pump? Should I turn my res around and just run the return to the bottom of the res or can I just fill the res fully to the top so there is no air at all in it? Any help with this be apreciated. Thanks in advance to anyone that helps also.

Here's a pic of my build so you can get an idea what I'm talking about. (I know the top half of my psu cover isn't on. That's because I'm still doing some work on it and rather wait till I'm somewhat done to reinstall it)


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Cheers for the reply Ceaddarman. Will be originally be cooling a 3820 (Waiting for IB-E), dual 7970's (with a mind of going triple 8970's when they ship), with 480 and 360 rads, so will I need two pumps to maintain a decent flowrate?


Yesterday I was cleaning my stuff out so I got all my hardware and linked it up on my bed. I had two EK Supreme HFs with restrictive plates in them and 3 large radiators. Loads of flow from my dual 355's and when you fire up the second pump you can really see the difference in flow rate.

You'll be fine with two DDC's.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Cheers for the reply Ceaddarman. Will be originally be cooling a 3820 (Waiting for IB-E), dual 7970's (with a mind of going triple 8970's when they ship), with 480 and 360 rads, so will I need two pumps to maintain a decent flowrate?


I ran an XSPC raystrom and three full cover 7970 blocks in series with a single 355. Worked just fine.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*


What sort of tubing is that? Could you send me a link?


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I am pretty sure it has been stated a million times around here that loop order does not affect temps.


Well according to my fluid temp sensors there is a 1.5 to 2 degree warm up from the start of my loop to the end of my loop. Depending on the current system load.

I guess that the temp drop after running through the rad is a figment of my imagination. I have also moved the temp sensors around to see that the fluid into my 360 is being dropped by 1 to 1.5 degrees form entry of the rad to exit of the rad.

The temps all rise at the same time when load is applied but the temp difference between before the rad and after the rad should be different.

I can physically watch this on my G-Vans controller. The second from right is the temp for the start of my loop and the farthest right is the temp at the end. The left temp is a senor on my CPU block and the second from the left is a sensor on my GPU block.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Well according to my fluid temp sensors there is a 1.5 to 2 degree warm up from the start of my loop to the end of my loop.
> 
> I guess that the temp drop after running thru the rad id a figment of my imagination. I have also moved the temp sensors around to see that the fluid into my 360 is being dropped by 1 to 1.5 degrees form entery of the rad to exit of the rad.
> 
> The temps all rise at the same time when load is applied but the temp difference between befor the rad and after the rad should be different.
> 
> I can phyisacilly watch this on my G-Vans controller. The second from right is the temp for the start of my loop and the fartest right is the temp at the end. The left temp is a senor on my cpu block and the seconf from the left is a sensor on my gpu block.


Most definitely the temps are going to be alil lower at the return side of your rad compared to the intake side. If it weren't then your rad wouldn't be doing it's job. I have been told how loop order doesn't really matter in regards to final temps on your system once it's up and running for a few minutes. But your temps should always be alil different from the intake side to the return side. Especially on rad from 240mm in size and up. I think what NHS meant is the order isn't going to change your final temps which I also agree with. As long as your res is before your pump the res is more of and asthetic preference than an actual performance changing decision. Is that what you were getting at NHS?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I have another question. I have the return line from the last radgoing to the top of my cylinder res. Now my dilema is this when I shut it offI hear the rads gurgeling as the water runs down the line and into the res and air replaces the water. Every time I start my rig up it takes a few seconds for the air to be pushed back out of it. Is that dangerous for my pump? Should I turn my res around and just run the return to the bottom of the res or can I just fill the res fully to the top so there is no air at all in it? Any help with this be apreciated. Thanks in advance to anyone that helps also.
> 
> Here's a pic of my build so you can get an idea what I'm talking about. (I know the top half of my psu cover isn't on. That's because I'm still doing some work on it and rather wait till I'm somewhat done to reinstall it)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1106522/


Chino,

If you can't connect the return at the bottom of the res, then use an extension tube down inside the res, so that the water effectively exits the return line at least an inch or so below the normal water level in the res.

Here's a pic of mine, you can see the black extension tube coming down from the top to about 3/4" above the bottom.

As water tends to drain down by gravity, it compresses the air at the top of the res untill the pressures equalize. As long as the water exits the tube below the surface, the air in the res can't get back up into the tube to create that big air bubble at the next startup. The caveat here is to have a sufficiently full res so there's minimal air to compress relative to the water quantity directly held in the verticle line.

Not sure what your top res connection options are, but mine has 3, so I have a led cap in the second and a bleed / fill tube in the third so that the only airspace in my cylinder res is a little in the bleed tube actually above the cylinder res top.

Darlene


----------



## teamrushpntball

Yes the water will vary a bit around your loop, but in most cases the differences in temp from component to component will only change minimally (few fractions of a degree). Yes loop order does matter, but it's so imperceptible that often the increased restriction from extra tubing is a greater hindrance.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Well according to my fluid temp sensors there is a 1.5 to 2 degree warm up from the start of my loop to the end of my loop. Depending on the current system load.
> 
> I guess that the temp drop after running through the rad is a figment of my imagination. I have also moved the temp sensors around to see that the fluid into my 360 is being dropped by 1 to 1.5 degrees form entry of the rad to exit of the rad.
> 
> The temps all rise at the same time when load is applied but the temp difference between before the rad and after the rad should be different.
> 
> I can physically watch this on my G-Vans controller. The second from right is the temp for the start of my loop and the farthest right is the temp at the end. The left temp is a senor on my CPU block and the second from the left is a sensor on my GPU block.


You look at temps of the loop as a whole, not at each individual component. Go ahead and change your loop order anyway you like and you'll still get roughly that same temp difference between the beginning and the end of the loop (within .1 or so C).


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> What sort of tubing is that? Could you send me a link?


Here you go:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/feser_tube_uv_hose_-_3_8_id_-_1_2_od_-_silver_lowuv_blue_1_/


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Yes the water will vary a bit around your loop, but in most cases the differences in *temp from component to component will only change minimally (few fractions of a degree*). Yes loop order does matter, *but it's so imperceptible that often the increased restriction from extra tubing is a greater hindrance*.


It depends on what components you have:

It takes 264 watts to raise the water temp 1 C with a 1gpm flow rate.

A quad GPU system with OC'd hi end gpus could add 5C to the water temp, hence the use of dual loops or interim rads in single loop configurations.

If you're running the CPU after the GPU's and raise the water temp by 5C upon exiting the last GPU, That's at least 5C that the cpu will be increased by.

It takes several meters of 1/2" tubing to equal the restriction of one sharp 90 degree connector.

Tubing length makes its difference known in the aesthetics and perhaps air flow disruption. Several extra feet of tubing isn't even enough to make any measurable difference in temps because of added restriction.

Darlene


----------



## Neo Zuko

Building in my new CaseLabs Merlin SM8 case with top mounted pedestal soon. Using a 3 rad "U" top venting config.

Which is the best paraelle loop plan? Here are 3 loop plans that actually make use of all three inlets of the Swiftech Apogee HD CPU Waterblock (with the 3 inlet Swiftech Maestrom Res with a MCP35X2 pump attached):

1. Normal loop for reference:

http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/265088103071494145/photo/1

2. T-Line convergence paraelle loop:

Parallel loop plan with 3 outlet Apogee HD. Flow: Res, pump, Apogee HD, split into 3 lines, T-Line convergence, rads. http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/265092580700745728/photo/1

3. Backwards rads with 3 inlet Swiftech Maelstrom res convergence (the pump would get hot water, but in theory the hottest part of the loop to the coldest part should be within a few degrees no matter what you do):

Rad backwards parallel loop plan with 3 outlet Apogee HD. Flow: Pump, rads, Apogee HD, 3 Lines, 3 inlet res convergence. http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/265092209571930113/photo/1

4. And my favorite, the split rad hybrid convergence design for super low restriction (I think this is so elegant I may just use this plan. Any opinions?):

Parallel loop plan with 3 outlet Apogee HD. Flow arrow marked, split rad hybrid convergence design for low restriction. http://twitter.com/NE0ZUK0/status/265094022228496384/photo/1

By the way I'm getting really really good at drawing on my iPhone as you can see!! LoL. And this is the only way I know how to host pics from my iPhone so sorry about the Twitter links... Feel free to host/post the pics for me, that would be awesome!!


----------



## KaRLiToS

EDIT


----------



## Neo Zuko

Nope, twitter pics don't link with the image button and I can't upload from my iPhone any other way yet. I'm open to suggestions. When I get to a PC I can upload them to my Google Plus and host, but god only knows when that will be, the PC is not up and running yet.

And option 4 is the best IMHO, that one you hosted (option 1) was only for normal loop reference. I was playing around with the 3 outlets of the Apogee HD, and I'll have 3 inlets on the Maelstrom Res.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It depends on what components you have:
> It takes 264 watts to raise the water temp 1 C with a 1gpm flow rate.
> A quad GPU system with OC'd hi end gpus could add 5C to the water temp, hence the use of dual loops or interim rads in single loop configurations.
> If you're running the CPU after the GPU's and raise the water temp by 5C upon exiting the last GPU, That's at least 5C that the cpu will be increased by.
> It takes several meters of 1/2" tubing to equal the restriction of one sharp 90 degree connector.
> Tubing length makes its difference known in the aesthetics and perhaps air flow disruption. Several extra feet of tubing isn't even enough to make any measurable difference in temps because of added restriction.
> Darlene


Yes I agree that coming out of any component there will be a temperature difference present. Exiting a 1080 radiator you'd certainly hope that your fluid temps are lower, same with coming out of a GTX 690 the temperature will be higher. And yes, if you are running 4 GPU's a 2nd loop is usually in order.

As I said in most cases the difference in actual component temps, not fluid temps, are not effected greatly by the order. And finally, even if your fluid temp is raised 5*C coming out of your quad GPU's that does not mean that you are actively heating your CPU by 5*C. I'm unsure on just what the ratio is to determine the number, and am about to go to breakfast with the wife so can't look it up, it just lowers the amount of heat that can then be pulled away from your CPU.

Hope I made that clear, being rushed that it's time to go.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Yes I agree that coming out of any component there will be a temperature difference present. Exiting a 1080 radiator you'd certainly hope that your fluid temps are lower, same with coming out of a GTX 690 the temperature will be higher. And yes, if you are running 4 GPU's a 2nd loop is usually in order.
> *As I said in most cases the difference in actual component temps, not fluid temps, are not effected greatly by the order. And finally, even if your fluid temp is raised 5*C coming out of your quad GPU's that does not mean that you are actively heating your CPU by 5*C.* I'm unsure on just what the ratio is to determine the number, and am about to go to breakfast with the wife so can't look it up, it just lowers the amount of heat that can then be pulled away from your CPU.
> Hope I made that clear, being rushed that it's time to go.


Exactly this.

Except the fluid temp is not raised even by that amount,1-2c is more in order.


----------



## KaRLiToS

*For You Neo Zuko*

I tend to prefer with less tubing (*option 1*) would be my best. Or second best is (*option 4*)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Building in my new CaseLabs Merlin SM8 case with top mounted pedestal soon. Using a 3 rad "U" top venting config.
> Which is the best paraelle loop plan? Here are 3 loop plans that actually make use of all three inlets of the Swiftech Apogee HD CPU Waterblock (with the 3 inlet Swiftech Maestrom Res with a MCP35X2 pump attached):
> 
> *1. Normal loop for reference:*
> 
> 
> 
> *2. T-Line convergence paraelle loop:*
> 
> Parallel loop plan with 3 outlet Apogee HD. Flow: Res, pump, Apogee HD, split into 3 lines, T-Line convergence, rads.
> 
> 
> 
> *3. Backwards rads with 3 inlet Swiftech Maelstrom res convergence*
> 
> (the pump would get hot water, but in theory the hottest part of the loop to the coldest part should be within a few degrees no matter what you do):
> Rad backwards parallel loop plan with 3 outlet Apogee HD. Flow: Pump, rads, Apogee HD, 3 Lines, 3 inlet res convergence.
> 
> 
> 
> *4. And my favorite, the split rad hybrid convergence design for super low restriction*
> 
> (I think this is so elegant I may just use this plan. Any opinions?):
> Parallel loop plan with 3 outlet Apogee HD. Flow arrow marked, split rad hybrid convergence design for low restriction.
> 
> 
> 
> By the way I'm getting really really good at drawing on my iPhone as you can see!! LoL. And this is the only way I know how to host pics from my iPhone so sorry about the Twitter links... Feel free to host/post the pics for me, that would be awesome!!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Wow thanks!! That's so perfect!! I spent all night drawing on my iPhone!! I literally scratched all that out with my bare fingers!!























:::EDIT:::

I just realized that the Swiftech 4-port Manifold Fitting, the part I labeled "T" for T-Line, it resembles a rounded cube (or dice) with 4 compression ports on 4 facing sides, is most effective as in option 4's drain port. By combining the T-Line fill/drain with a convergence point. I might be able to use that in other loop plans.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Yes I agree that coming out of any component there will be a temperature difference present. Exiting a 1080 radiator you'd certainly hope that your fluid temps are lower, same with coming out of a GTX 690 the temperature will be higher. *And yes, if you are running 4 GPU's a 2nd loop is usually in order.*
> As I said in most cases the difference in actual component temps, not fluid temps, are not effected greatly by the order. And finally, even if your fluid temp is raised 5*C coming out of your quad GPU's that does not mean that you are actively heating your CPU by 5*C. I'm unsure on just what the ratio is to determine the number, and am about to go to breakfast with the wife so can't look it up, it just lowers the amount of heat that can then be pulled away from your CPU.
> Hope I made that clear, being rushed that it's time to go.


No it's not, and that's been also debunked as the differences will be minimal. It'll also clutter up the inside of the case adding air restriction and noise. It'll also cost you much more and net you much less (law of diminishing returns). My 580's run in series (Tri-SLI) at 951 core and 1.15v folding 18/7 with the cpu. I get a 3c difference from entry to exit in water temps. So water coming out of my puter is at 13c and coming in at 10c, and that's with a series tri SLI config...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> No it's not, and that's been also debunked as the differences will be minimal. It'll also clutter up the inside of the case adding air restriction and noise. It'll also cost you much more and net you much less (law of diminishing returns). My 580's run in series (Tri-SLI) at 951 core and 1.15v folding 18/7 with the cpu. I get a 3c difference from entry to exit in water temps. So water coming out of my puter is at 13c and coming in at 10c, and that's with a series tri SLI config...


I have 2 CPU blocks,2 MOBO blocks and 3 FC GPU blocks....all on one loop,no problems at all


----------



## teamrushpntball

Only have a CPU and 1 GPU in my loop. Sorry for giving false information on the dual loop issue.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Only have a CPU and 1 GPU in my loop. Sorry for giving false information on the dual loop issue.


It's not "false", it does work. It's just that it's not as good as what people make it out to be. If you have extra money and a big case a dual loop can work great. I single series wouldn't be very far behind for hundreds less however. And a dual loop in an ATX sized case starts to make thing cramp up a little.


----------



## wermad

This was ran with a single DDC 3.2, in a single loop








Quote:


>


----------



## Qu1ckset

Well im beyond pissed its one thing after the other with this build, today well on my computer i looked into the side window of my case because i saw weird glare coming from my rez, only to find out it has 3 massive cracks threw out it!









i have to say this Ek DCP4.0 is one of the crappiest engineered components ive bought in along time. For one mounting the rez to the pump was the biggest pain in the butt, and now it just randomly decides to crack like this, ive never man handled it hard, and its never experienced drastic change in temp..

it is stable for now, i took the top off and was trying to seperate the crack to see how weak it, and its still pretty strong

So now im problaby going to have to buy a new rez and probably pump, because the dcp4.0 isn't the nicest looking pump in the world!


























Can anyone recommend me a pump/rez combo to fit this style of build, here is a pic below that shows the current layout of my build and the available room i have.
***I have zero room in the drive-bays so don't recommend me that style please, and the tube on the fitting on the pump has been already fixed, its a old pic***


----------



## wermad

Ouch, sorry to hear that mate.

You can do something like this:



There are a few more tank-tops (lol) for the any DDC model.

edit, you can always go w/ a Swiftech Micro II res.


----------



## Fuganater

Spent the weekend modding the Technofront HWD bench. It was old and beat up so I added DI-Noc to the top of each level to hide the problems. Changed the 360 mount and made holes to mount a 2nd 360 rad to the bench. I also had to make a custom 120mm fan/rad holder for the top level as the one for it was missing.

Nothing special. This will help me test out WC components on a small "noobish" scale.


----------



## Qu1ckset

From reading in this thread aren't the d5 better the ddc pumps?


----------



## lowfat

The HWD actually never came w/ a top radiator mount. At least mine never did.


----------



## JohnnyEars

A lot of us think the d5 is better (flame on) but they are certainly bulkier.

here's one with an xspc res:


----------



## wermad

Since the curator is a big fan of the D5, its been pretty much a D5 haven since then. A lot of DDC bashing is because the curator doesn't like it. And as natural, if some one with the remotest sign of power approves of something, then others will fallow. Anything that person detest, they will fallow as well. My









I use and recommend what has worked for me. DDC is great pump.

FYI: All "D5 is better" responses to my post will be ignored.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> hey man. firstly it looks like the tube coming from ur res to ur pump goes up before it gets to the pump. you want that tube to be at least level, if not angled down toward the pump, so the res is feeding the pump via gravity. this will ensure the pump have fluid in it and will help with bleeding. Also, *** are you doing with a bay res in that case?!? you have all that room man get a massive tube res and have it direct feeding your pump!!! youll get rid of all that tubing between pump and res and itll look cleaner and work alot better.


I tried with the tubing coming out of the res but it would kink as I dont have any angle fittings. And ya I will get a res that goes on my pump. And maybe I'll get another 4x480rads for the entire other side of the case when I get money LOL.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The HWD actually never came w/ a top radiator mount. At least mine never did.


I thought it was supposed to come with a 80 or 120mm fan adapter there?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> A lot of us think the d5 is better (flame on) but they are certainly bulkier.
> here's one with an xspc res:


Looks ok but after having there dual bay Reservoirs im not a big fan of the all Acrylic style..

Might go with the Koolance pump-top paired with the Koolance PMP-450S unless you guys can recommend a better d5 pump that will fit that pump top, and then i will put a Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 40 on top of it, unless again you can recommend be a better reservoir


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Since the curator is a big fan of the D5, its been pretty much a D5 haven since then. A lot of DDC bashing is because the curator doesn't like it. And as natural, if some one with the remotest sign of power approves of something, then others will fallow. Anything that person detest, they will fallow as well. My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use and recommend what has worked for me. DDC is great pump.
> FYI: All "D5 is better" responses to my post will be ignored.


Iwaki is better. Seriously, who's this curator?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Iwaki is better. Seriously, who's this curator?


lol, check the first post in this thread


----------



## Atham

I have a question about D5 pumps. I am planning on using an Alphacool UT60 360mm RAD and I will be WCing my Navy Beast sig rig. What Res and what D5 pump would you recommend that I get? Nothing too expensive though, as I have seen a D5 that costs 300€.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lol, check the first post in this thread


*snicker*

I don't think everyone follows one person's opinion. But like in all things, people with conviction and a strong will can sway the masses more readily. It doesn't mean they are the be all and end all of a particular subject. They might just convinced by their experience and point of view that it's the best product for the job. Therefore, by communicating their appreciation others follow suit.

Heck, I'm not in total accord either as Iwaki kicks every pump you guys can think of (in a relatively small form factor please), doesn't mean I push it down people throats either. If I could, I'd change out that Koolance res and D5's for a single RD pump on a 24v controller. I can't really; I'm starting to see the money well dry up (GF's cost more money than hobbies).









Atleast they aren't pushing for really crappy products to the masses. We'd have totally different conversations if that was the case. OCN WC trouble shooting would be the number one thread...


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> I can't really; I'm starting to see the money well dry up (GF's cost more money than hobbies).


What is the moral of the story here,wermad?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Since the curator is a big fan of the D5, its been pretty much a D5 haven since then. A lot of DDC bashing is because the curator doesn't like it. And as natural, if some one with the remotest sign of power approves of something, then others will fallow. Anything that person detest, they will fallow as well. My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use and recommend what has worked for me. DDC is great pump.
> FYI: All "D5 is better" responses to my post will be ignored.


Dont talk crap wermad.

I recommend D5's,others recommend other pumps,this doesnt make it a D5 haven at all.
Its not only me that rate that particular pump,OCN is full of threads with D5 recommendations.

I wont tolerate personal attacks on myself,save it for your habitual EK bashing posts instead.

But thats OK tho,isnt it Wermad? If its EK then its fair game right?


----------



## KaRLiToS

B negative, c'mon man.









Leave EK out of this PLEASE.


----------



## phillyd

Just a heads up guys, Perrformance-PC's has a 5.5% discount for all OCN members! Just enter the code OCN55 at checkout.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I use and recommend what has worked for me. DDC is great pump.
> FYI: All "D5 is better" responses to my post will be ignored.


Yup..Never had any problems using DDC pumps myself either..In fact used two of them in a folding rig 24/7 for 18 months with no issues what so ever (not folding at the moment but both pumps are still going strong) In my 800D PC have had two DDC's in there since I put the thing together 2½ years ago & their both still running fine also







.. Having said that, I'm not knocking using D5's I know their a damn good pump also, But it'll come down to what you can fit where, how much head you want & what your preference is as regards looks e.t.c.. Both types of pumps have their good & bad points IMO.

Oh....& just for record I am pressently using two AC D5's (one is the USB/Aquabus version) in a test rig..









Happy pump raging peoples









N.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> B negative, c'mon man.


Karlitos,he is basically calling everybody sheep,we have had pages of EK hate and thats acceptable while calling a pump crap is not?

Double standards.


----------



## wermad

The previous curator recommend the DDC for me the first time I went tri-sli. Back then, there was little to no bashing of the DDC. DDC was the prime choice for complex high restriction loops. The D5 was the cadillac of pumps which can be pimped out. The Jingway 1200 wasn't loved much. I had no problem with any of the pumps but I did have my criticism after trying several ddc 3.2, a D5, and a couple of Jingways. In all, I would sum up the pumps this way:

-DDC: the work horse of the lot. Still works like a beast even when I threw six blocks, two big rads, and a helix res at it. Personal choice the 3.2. I continue with large complex loops and it holds up.
-D5: the all rounder with pimp-my-pump options.
-Jingway 1200: the under appreciated pump and costs less (new) compared to the others.

I did buy into the 35x darling status but its not working out. When I get a chance, I'll find a 3.2 to switch out the 35x with.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The previous curator recommend the DDC for me the first time I went tri-sli. Back then, there was little to no bashing of the DDC. DDC was the prime choice for complex high restriction loops. The D5 was the cadillac of pumps which can be pimped out. The Jingway 1200 wasn't loved much. I had no problem with any of the pumps but I did have my criticism after trying several ddc 3.2, a D5, and a couple of Jingways. In all, I would sum up the pumps this way:
> -DDC: the work horse of the lot. Still works like a beast even when I threw six blocks, two big rads, and a helix res at it. Personal choice the 3.2. I continue with large complex loops and it holds up.
> -D5: the all rounder with pimp-my-pump options.
> -*Jingway 1200: the under appreciated pump and costs less (new) compared to the others*.
> I did buy into the 35x darling status but its not working out. When I get a chance, I'll find a 3.2 to switch out the 35x with.


Very true.
I have a 800Lph Jingway here,never missed a beat.

The mounts are absolute rubbish tho.

Ideal pump would be the D5 with the DDC impeller.....the D5 impeller is too small

and btw.... WHERE IS MY PMP500???!?!?!?!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Looks ok but after having there dual bay Reservoirs im not a big fan of the all Acrylic style..
> Might go with the Koolance pump-top paired with the Koolance PMP-450S unless you guys can recommend a better d5 pump that will fit that pump top, and then i will put a Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 40 on top of it, unless again you can recommend be a better reservoir


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Karlitos,he is basically calling everybody sheep,we have had pages of EK hate and thats acceptable while calling a pump crap is not?
> Double standards.


Actually that was me, sorry. I edited it out.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> What is the moral of the story here,wermad?


That's not my post







. But I'm married so I know how it feels though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Just a heads up guys, Perrformance-PC's has a 5.5% discount for all OCN members! Just enter the code OCN55 at checkout.


Wow!!!!!!!! Can you magically turn that into a "55" rather than a "5.5". If DD doesn't ship my order I might place an order for some blocks. How long do we have?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Yup..Never had any problems using DDC pumps myself either..In fact used two of them in a folding rig 24/7 for 18 months with no issues what so ever (not folding at the moment but both pumps are still going strong) In my 800D PC have had two DDC's in there since I put the thing together 2½ years ago & their both still running fine also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Having said that, I'm not knocking using D5's I know their a damn good pump also, But it'll come down to what you can fit where, how much head you want & what your preference is as regards looks e.t.c.. Both types of pumps have their good & bad points IMO.
> Oh....& just for record I am pressently using two AC D5's (one is the USB/Aquabus version) in a test rig..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy pump raging peoples
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


I've been hanging out on this thread since i joined. The DDC got a lot more respect not too long ago. I have no problems with the D5 but its not my choice. I've been through four 355, one D5, and two Jingways 1200. Each has their strengths and weakness. i just find the DDC more appealing. D5 vs DDC = Amd vs Nvidia on this thread. I still come across many threads in other forums were either is still recommended for a specific application/setup.

To end it, lets just pick the Eheim and be over with it







. Might use one to run my aquarium too


----------



## AMC

I want to see how good the PMP 500 is and what kind of tops we can put on it......


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To end it, *lets just pick the Eheim* and be over with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Might use one to run my aquarium too


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> I want to see how good the PMP 500 is and what kind of tops we can put on it......


Hanoverfist is putting one in his newest build. It's still a wip build so it might be some time before he puts the pump to work.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313180/build-log-electric-orange


----------



## Fonne

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_20&products_id=2903&zenid=e9a52d9cf2bbe92a2314f9b3991a6850



Maybe old news, but still a pretty nice block with the black acrylic









And another D5 top/res



http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_7_120&products_id=3040


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Not sure about the pump supports.....looks like a 1960's robot....


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To end it, lets just pick the Eheim and be over with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Might use one to run my aquarium too


Nice I just started a 55gal reef aquarium. Just got the filter, heater and tunze pump with some sand and live rocks (20lbs). That was the GF's new choice of hobby for me actually.









When I get back home I plan on 20 more pounds of live rock (300$), a skimmer and some T5HO lights (two or four, not sure yet).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Nice I just started a 55gal reef aquarium. Just got the filter, heater and tunze pump with some sand and live rocks (20lbs). That was the GF's new choice of hobby for me actually.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I get back home I plan on 20 more pounds of live rock (300$), a skimmer and some T5HO lights (two or four, not sure yet).


I'm still too much of novice to try reef. I'm still doing fresh. I have an assortment of gold fish and they're big after a couple of years. Started with a 1 gallon, then to a 10, a 40, and now a 75. I did buy a 120 but the wifey didn't approve of the new fish "upgrade" so I sold it







I did buy a canister filter and though its a pita to setup and maintain, it keeps the water very clean. Its got a three stage filtration system which is enough for my 75.

Wife ok'd a small reef system (artificial) for some marines. Maybe get the main guys from "Finding Nemo" for my little one and future little one #2









How much power are you pulling on the wall? And how are your temps on the three 580s?


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm still too much of novice to try reef. I'm still doing fresh. I have an assortment of gold fish and they're big after a couple of years. Started with a 1 gallon, then to a 10, a 40, and now a 75. I did buy a 120 but the wifey didn't approve of the new fish "upgrade" so I sold it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did buy a canister filter and though its a pita to setup and maintain, it keeps the water very clean. Its got a three stage filtration system which is enough for my 75.
> Wife ok'd a small reef system (artificial) for some marines. Maybe get the main guys from "Finding Nemo" for my little one and future little one #2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much power are you pulling on the wall? And how are your temps on the three 580s?


I started with a 12 gal four months ago, and moved to a 55gal reef right after. I love marine life, doing my PADI first aid course these coming weeks and plan on getting master diver certification.

Umm my computer?

Well everything stays between 14 and 20c while folding. The CPU is at 4.7 @ 1.5v and I'm hitting low to mid fourties. Works for me...









Edit: Power wise, between 1000 and 1300w out of the wall. So =1000*0.85 gives me 850w of consumption from the PSU on the crappier WU's.

Edit2: Power consumption not including the chiller...


----------



## NewHighScore

Nice to see other aquarium enthusiasts here as well. I am a live planted kind of guy myself. I am on hiatus from the hobby because of moving and breaking down a live planted aquascape, moving it and re aquascaping is no fun. Once I purchase a house in the near future I will re enter the hobby.

Back on topic, when I got into the water cooling world I was somewhat surprised to see eheim also in the world of PC's. Those german's know their hobbies and they sure know how to do it right!


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Just a heads up guys, Perrformance-PC's has a 5.5% discount for all OCN members! Just enter the code OCN55 at checkout.


stop trying to get me in trouble with my wife


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's not my post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But I'm married so I know how it feels though


I feel so embarrassed now


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> stop trying to get me in trouble with my wife


To all the good wives of OCNers that put up with surprises on the credit card statements and scattered workrooms. Thank you.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> To all the good wives of OCNers that put up with surprises on the credit card statements and scattered workrooms. Thank you.


I raise my glass to that!


----------



## IT Diva

[Off topic warning]

Perhaps I have the greatest salt water aquascspe of all, completely surrounding me here on this little tropical island.

If I want to see tropical fish, I can swim with them up close and personal like.

Darlene







[/Off topic warning]


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> [Off topic warning]
> Perhaps I have the greatest salt water aquascspe of all, completely surrounding me here on this little tropical island.
> If I want to see tropical fish, I can swim with them up close and personal like.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/Off topic warning]


Nice, did you take those pics?

BTW I like the build pics of yours.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> [Off topic warning]
> Perhaps I have the greatest salt water aquascspe of all, completely surrounding me here on this little tropical island.
> If I want to see tropical fish, I can swim with them up close and personal like.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/Off topic warning]


Diving and sightseeing is a farcry from actually maintaining a reef or aquascape aquarium. What tropical island?

I'm heading to St-Croix on the 13th for some scuba fun at buck island. God those staghorn reefs are nice to look at!









Gonna be a nice place to test my new Hero2 cam...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I thought it was supposed to come with a 80 or 120mm fan adapter there?


It does comes an 80mm fan adapter that blows over downwards over the CPU VRMs.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Diving and sightseeing is a *farcry* from actually maintaining a reef or aquascape aquarium. What *tropical island*?


Coincidence?









All this talk of tropical island makes me so want to go back to the Suncoast.


----------



## phillyd

I'm not really sure where to post this, but I want to build a custom foot rest for myself, you guys have any suggestions for where to get varying density foams for maximum comfort?


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> [Off topic warning]
> Perhaps I have the greatest salt water aquascspe of all, completely surrounding me here on this little tropical island.
> If I want to see tropical fish, I can swim with them up close and personal like.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> [/Off topic warning]


Yep, that pretty much beats any case window.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Nice, did you take those pics?
> BTW I like the build pics of yours.


Yes, the pics are mine.

Olympus C8080 in an Ikelite housing with dome port and 2 strobes.

It's a bit dated now, but I don't have the diving obsession I used to either.

That little puffer fish is taken on the North Wind, a sunken tug that was used in the making of the movie, "The Mel Fisher Story" about the guy that found and salvaged the Atocha treasure.

Darlene


----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> To all the good wives of OCNers that put up with surprises on the credit card statements and scattered workrooms. Thank you.


That is so well said i can't believe it. My girl has been so patient with my building and folding addictions. Now if I could get my spare bdrm set up for all the projects and clear the dining room table off, I'll be golden. LOL


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> I started with a 12 gal four months ago, and moved to a 55gal reef right after. I love marine life, doing my PADI first aid course these coming weeks and plan on getting master diver certification.
> Umm my computer?
> Well everything stays between 14 and 20c while folding. The CPU is at 4.7 @ 1.5v and I'm hitting low to mid fourties. Works for me...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Power wise, between 1000 and 1300w out of the wall. So =1000*0.85 gives me 850w of consumption from the PSU on the crappier WU's.
> Edit2: Power consumption not including the chiller...


850w while folding ain't bad. I'm hoping my SS can cope with a few of these guys







. voltage is a tad high for that clock? On the asus p67 i can do 4.7 with 1.35v stable and with a z77 I can do 4.9 w/ 1.325v. I'm getting my new or should I say my old-new Z77 back. Its the cheapest 4-way z77 out right now ($180). I think i can handle its quirks. What are your gpus holding at?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Nice to see other aquarium enthusiasts here as well. I am a live planted kind of guy myself. I am on hiatus from the hobby because of moving and breaking down a live planted aquascape, moving it and re aquascaping is no fun. Once I purchase a house in the near future I will re enter the hobby.
> Back on topic, when I got into the water cooling world I was somewhat surprised to see eheim also in the world of PC's. Those german's know their hobbies and they sure know how to do it right!


Awesome







A Dutch setup? I've been curious about aquascaping but the thing holding me back is my current fish will eat the plants and the wifey won't like another tank in the house








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> stop trying to get me in trouble with my wife


lol, I'm hanging by thread before she finds out....again








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> I feel so embarrassed now


Np mate







As I said, married for 8 years and have kids (well, a three y/o and one in the oven). I get my ear full plenty of times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> To all the good wives of OCNers that put up with surprises on the credit card statements and scattered workrooms. Thank you.


Qft,








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> I raise my glass to that!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> [Off topic warning]
> Perhaps I have the greatest salt water aquascspe of all, completely surrounding me here on this little tropical island.
> If I want to see tropical fish, I can swim with them up close and personal like.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/Off topic warning]


awesome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Diving and sightseeing is a farcry from actually maintaining a reef or aquascape aquarium. What tropical island?
> I'm heading to St-Croix on the 13th for some scuba fun at buck island. God those staghorn reefs are nice to look at!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna be a nice place to test my new Hero2 cam...


Wish I could learn scuba...one day. But driving the Green Hell is my top Bucket List item








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Coincidence?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this talk of tropical island makes me so want to go back to the Suncoast.


Makes me want to go anywhere tropical for some vacations. Kids can stay with the grandparents.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClaggyPants*
> 
> Yep, that pretty much beats any case window.


lol, it does. I occasionally browse the nice marine setups at the local pet shop. Its tempting to swap my 75 to a nice marine setup.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Both, the bore is the inside. Bore of the fitting and / or bore of the thread. Is the paint coming off the only the outside of the threads or inside the fitting as well??
> Lots more pics pls.


So I took some more pics and the paint is only coming off of the outside threads. I have two red ones that are quite bad (from my pump) all the others are fine. And I have one white fitting that lost a bit as well.

This one is my most beat up one that I have you can see almost all the paint is gone from the threads; however, the other side of the threads are fine:



Here you can see the compression part is spotless but I lost a tiny bit of paint on the threads again but only what you can see is what has been lost, paint wise:



Small chips on the white and the inside is actually fine its just the shadow of the lighting:



I love these fittings for the design of how they have been made but I must say they need to use some thicker or at least stronger paint on them as it does come off sometimes.

As for the inside of the fittings they are all clean and clear of any damage it is just the threading and bottom of the outside fitting in which I have shown are damaged

NOTE: I insist you click on the pictures to see what it actually looks like


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 850w while folding ain't bad. I'm hoping my SS can cope with a few of these guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . voltage is a tad high for that clock? On the asus p67 i can do 4.7 with 1.35v stable and with a z77 I can do 4.9 w/ 1.325v. I'm getting my new or should I say my old-new Z77 back. Its the cheapest 4-way z77 out right now ($180). I think i can handle its quirks. What are your gpus holding at?


I've tried everything to get it down there, and it never stabalizes. To be truthfull, I suck at OC'ing CPU's. I also only started a year and a half ago.

945 core for the 580's at 1.15 volts.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> That is so well said i can't believe it. My girl has been so patient with my building and folding addictions. Now if I could get my spare bdrm set up for all the projects and clear the dining room table off, I'll be golden. LOL


I have a 'dedicated' area in the basement but still somehow everything makes its way upstairs to my desk









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A Dutch setup? I've been curious about aquascaping but the thing holding me back is my current fish will eat the plants and the wifey won't like another tank in the house


A wannabe dutch setup.







I'm not sure what I had would qualify under dutch guidelines but yes that is what I had. Pressurized CO2 and EI fertilization and test kits and everything







What kind of fish do you have that eat the plants? I am a fan of large schools of small peaceful fish and algae eating shrimp.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Diving and sightseeing is a farcry from actually maintaining a reef or aquascape aquarium. What tropical island?
> I'm heading to St-Croix on the 13th for some scuba fun at buck island. God those staghorn reefs are nice to look at!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna be a nice place to test my new Hero2 cam...


You may want to PM me, I live on St Croix, going on 13 years now.

If you're a certified diver, Buck Island is practically a waste of time.

It's only good for tourists who snorkle because it's shallow. Most of its fringing reef is ugly, dying, or dead from being battered by hurricanes.

It's a preserve, so there are fish that are easy to see which also makes it tourist popular.

The nice coral formations are along the North Shore from Salt River to Cane Bay / North Star

For critters, dive the cruise ship pier as a night dive, it's easily one of the best in the Caribbean.

My recommendations for DOs:

http://www.stcroixscuba.com/

http://www.canebayscuba.com/index.html

http://www.divexp.com/

http://www.n2theblue.com/

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> So I took some more pics and the paint is only coming off of the outside threads. I have two red ones that are quite bad (from my pump) all the others are fine. And I have one white fitting that lost a bit as well.
> This one is my most beat up one that I have you can see almost all the paint is gone from the threads
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ; however, the other side of the threads are fine:
> 
> Here you can see the compression part is spotless but I lost a tiny bit of paint on the threads again but only what you can see is what has been lost, paint wise:
> 
> Small chips on the white and the inside is actually fine its just the shadow of the lighting:
> 
> I love these fittings for the design of how they have been made but I must say they need to use some thicker or at least stronger paint on them as it does come off sometimes.
> As for the inside of the fittings they are all clean and clear of any damage it is just the threading and bottom of the outside fitting in which I have shown are damaged
> NOTE: I insist you click on the pictures to see what it actually looks like


The paint coming off the threads is to be expected,if there is no peeling in the bore then you could use them again.
They seem to get tatty real quick those fittings...


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You may want to PM me, I live on St Croix, going on 13 years now.
> If you're a certified diver, Buck Island is a waste of time.
> It's only good for tourists who snorkle because it's shallow. Most of its fringing reef is ugly, dying, or dead from being battered by hurricanes.
> It's a preserve, so there are fish that are easy to see which also makes it tourist popular.
> The nice coral formations are along the North Shore from Salt River to Cane Bay / North Star
> For critters, dive the cruise ship pier as a night dive one of the best in the Caribbean.
> My recommendations for DOs:
> http://www.canebayscuba.com/index.html
> http://www.divexp.com/
> http://www.n2theblue.com/
> Darlene


Actually took my adv. padi courses at the cane bay center. I'm near Christiansted at Sugar Beach. I had heard of the corals being bleached but hoped I could see them before everything dies off. Or is everything already dead?

I did the night dive under the pier, best dive I've done (only 25 to my record) ever. Saw a puff fish the size of a Bitfenix Prodigy, squids and eels. I told my sister that we were doing a night dive no questions asked.


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## Norelec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> To all the good wives of OCNers that put up with surprises on the credit card statements and scattered workrooms. Thank you.


If the wife start's going ape about the CC statement Just say "hun it could be worse. it could say asian delight massage on it" then run for the hills.
P.S I am divorced so if you take my advice and get beat up by a woman i am not to blam. But enjoy it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Actually took my adv. padi courses at the cane bay center. I'm near Christiansted at Sugar Beach. I had heard of the corals being bleached but hoped I could see them before everything dies off. Or is everything already dead?
> I did the night dive under the pier, best dive I've done (only 25 to my record) ever. Saw a puff fish the size of a Bitfenix Prodigy, squids and eels. I told my sister that we were doing a night dive no questions asked.


Since you're on the West end, check with SCUBA or N2theBlue, both have west end facilities. All the wrecks are on the west end, and it's usually calmer seas than the north shore. They can also give you the best updates on where to see what.

It's been a while since I was as much into extreme diving as now it's extreme PCs.

Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Both, the bore is the inside. Bore of the fitting and / or bore of the thread. Is the paint coming off the only the outside of the threads or inside the fitting as well??
> Lots more pics pls.
> 
> 
> 
> So I took some more pics and the paint is only coming off of the outside threads. I have two red ones that are quite bad (from my pump) all the others are fine. And I have one white fitting that lost a bit as well.
> 
> This one is my most beat up one that I have you can see almost all the paint is gone from the threads; however, the other side of the threads are fine:
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the compression part is spotless but I lost a tiny bit of paint on the threads again but only what you can see is what has been lost, paint wise:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small chips on the white and the inside is actually fine its just the shadow of the lighting:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love these fittings for the design of how they have been made but I must say they need to use some thicker or at least stronger paint on them as it does come off sometimes.
> 
> As for the inside of the fittings they are all clean and clear of any damage it is just the threading and bottom of the outside fitting in which I have shown are damaged
> 
> NOTE: I insist you click on the pictures to see what it actually looks like
Click to expand...

That looks like Frickin aluminum.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Agreed. Although I did spend 3 days with my Ship down in St. Thomas. If and when I ever retire I want to live down there.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Sorry 'bout that . . . .

But what are the odds that someone frequent to this thread would be coming to my 82 square mile island









Darlene


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I thought it was supposed to come with a 80 or 120mm fan adapter there?
> 
> 
> 
> It does comes an 80mm fan adapter that blows over downwards over the CPU VRMs.
Click to expand...

Its supposed to come with this too.



The guy didn't have it so I just made my own but for 120mm.


----------



## Arm3nian

Moment of truth, will power up comp shortly. Lets just hope I didn't destroy anything while building, and that the 20 hours of leak testing will prove itself worthy and not destroy anything when powered on....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Its supposed to come with this too.
> 
> The guy didn't have it so I just made my own but for 120mm.


I have a load of 120mm fan mounts left over from my Dimastech bench if you want them?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have a load of 120mm fan mounts left over from my Dimastech bench if you want them?


Shipping would probably be a problem -.-


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Shipping would probably be a problem -.-


You are paying for that Shane,i can find out how much if you like?


----------



## Arm3nian

Well, my comp didn't blow up, however, my CPU temp in the bios is 42c....

I haven't used any other temp sensor because my ssd's were somehow erased so I have to install windows again. I removed the IHS on my 3770k and applied thermal paste to the die, have not tested temps since. But now I know I didn't break anything. 42c Idle at stock speed ***? Have not tested gpu temps but 42c makes me mad.


----------



## Arm3nian

Ugh ya, ignore that last point since I fail so bad. I connected the ssd's to the wrong sata port. Later, I realize that I forgot to connect my pump to the psu LOLOLOLOLOL.


----------



## captvizcenzo

I am thinking of selling my dual DDC res and get the Bitspower DDC Mini Water Tank. That's mean I will go from a two loops setup to a single loop setup.
What do you guys think? Is this a bad idea?


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running a V2 HD6950/6970 series block?


I am 

They look great in person....much better than the crop circle design imo.


----------



## SammichThyme

I'm already a member but I thought I'd post a pic from my new build


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I'm already a member but I thought I'd post a pic from my new build


Oh damn sammich.


----------



## kyismaster

http://www.overclock.net/t/1323787/torn-thermal-pads-on-hd6950#post_18528922

Lol can anyone help this guy out?

I don't know really much about thermal pads, Never really had to buy any


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> I've tried everything to get it down there, and it never stabalizes. To be truthfull, I suck at OC'ing CPU's. I also only started a year and a half ago.
> 945 core for the 580's at 1.15 volts.


Seems a tad high. I get my new mb and gpu tomorrow so I can try to get 4.9 using 1.325v. I might go x79 if the new mb doesn't work out so I'll hit you up if you want this decent oc'er. I'm not too hardcore on my cpu and i just go with the basic stuff. Nice clocks on the 580s. My old set hit ~955 but I only ran these clocks for benchmarks. My new gpu setup will run stock so I'm trying to get as much gpu power for Surround.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I have a 'dedicated' area in the basement but still somehow everything makes its way upstairs to my desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A wannabe dutch setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what I had would qualify under dutch guidelines but yes that is what I had. Pressurized CO2 and EI fertilization and test kits and everything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of fish do you have that eat the plants? I am a fan of large schools of small peaceful fish and algae eating shrimp.


I have an assortment of goldfish. What started out as a single one for my little girl ended up growing to ~20 assorted ones. That growth entailed a growth in tank too







. A few have died (Black Moores and Shubunkos) but the rest have grown a lot so the 75 gallon is now essential. might do a reef system down the road.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norelec*
> 
> If the wife start's going ape about the CC statement Just say "hun it could be worse. it could say asian delight massage on it" then run for the hills.
> P.S I am divorced so if you take my advice and get beat up by a woman i am not to blam. But enjoy it


lol,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> I am
> They look great in person....much better than the crop circle design imo.


Thanks bud







. Some members had some questions about the DD 6970 V2 block and which cards were compatible. Which gpu did you run on those? DD had a clearance sale and some ppl hopeully scored some for ~$25 each.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I'm already a member but I thought I'd post a pic from my new build


Sweet!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1323787/torn-thermal-pads-on-hd6950#post_18528922
> Lol can anyone help this guy out?
> I don't know really much about thermal pads, Never really had to buy any


I chimed in too see if I could help somehow.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Seems a tad high. I get my new mb and gpu tomorrow so I can try to get 4.9 using 1.325v. I might go x79 if the new mb doesn't work out so I'll hit you up if you want this decent oc'er. I'm not too hardcore on my cpu and i just go with the basic stuff. Nice clocks on the 580s. My old set hit ~955 but I only ran these clocks for benchmarks. My new gpu setup will run stock so I'm trying to get as much gpu power for Surround.
> I have an assortment of goldfish. What started out as a single one for my little girl ended up growing to ~20. That growth entailed a growth in tank too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol,
> Thanks bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So members had some questions about the DD 6970 V2 block and which cards were compatible. DD had a clearance sale and some ppl hopeully scored some for ~$25 each.
> Sweet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chimed in too see if I could help somehow.


cool thanks.

I had some thermal pads back when, but I never got to use them lol


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Has anyone ever tried this with there rads? I'm just playing around with build ideas and am wondering if there would be any cons to doing it. Flow would enter from the loop into bottom right rad and to the res from top left rad. Rads would be parrellel connected basically. I put some fittings and tubing just for a visual but could use some sort of sli fittings if it worked out..


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried this with there rads? I'm just playing around with build ideas and am wondering if there would be any cons to doing it. Flow would enter from the loop into bottom right rad and to the res from top left rad. Rads would be parrellel connected basically. I put some fittings and tubing just for a visual but could use some sort of sli fittings if it worked out..


i don't know but it looks so cool.

it would go so good with a ying-yang themed case.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried this with there rads? I'm just playing around with build ideas and am wondering if there would be any cons to doing it. Flow would enter from the loop into bottom right rad and to the res from top left rad. Rads would be parrellel connected basically. I put some fittings and tubing just for a visual but could use some sort of sli fittings if it worked out..
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


sweet!!! how many Monsta do you have? We need a Monsta Owners Club


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried this with there rads? I'm just playing around with build ideas and am wondering if there would be any cons to doing it. Flow would enter from the loop into bottom right rad and to the res from top left rad. Rads would be parrellel connected basically. I put some fittings and tubing just for a visual but could use some sort of sli fittings if it worked out..
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sorry to still your idea but this would work well for my interim case change, But I would be running two different rads.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> sweet!!! how many Monsta do you have? We need a Monsta Owners Club


2- 240 and 480
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Sorry to still your idea but this would work well for my interim case change, But I would be running two different rads.


Ya with the amount of room I got to work with, I thought it would be nice if it still had the same performance as a normal setup. If not I will have to have 4 90's on the end there and it may be difficult.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I'm already a member but I thought I'd post a pic from my new build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just one?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> 2- 240 and 480
> Ya with the amount of room I got to work with, I thought it would be nice if it still had the same performance as a normal setup. If not I will have to have 4 90's on the end there and it may be difficult.


Awesome! I have two 360s and one 240. If I could find a spot for my ssd(s) I could have done a 480, 360, and 240. I might find a way


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome! I have two 360s and one 240. If I could find a spot for my ssd(s) I could have done a 480, 360, and 240. I might find a way


With these rads it makes you have to really think were you can put thing because they take up ALOT of space. But coming from Black Ice Xtreme rads I'm excited to see how they handle.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You may want to PM me, I live on St Croix, going on 13 years now.


Hey This is off topic.. but In late 2005 when the New Cost U Less was built in Christiansted. I was there putting in the Refrigeration... What an Experience that was..

I suck at driving on the other side of the Road...







. Do miss it a bit. Went Diving for the First time There.. Absolutely Loved it...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Just a heads up guys, Perrformance-PC's has a 5.5% discount for all OCN members! Just enter the code OCN55 at checkout.


Nice! Thanks for the word Philly!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> So I took some more pics and the paint is only coming off of the outside threads. I have two red ones that are quite bad (from my pump) all the others are fine. And I have one white fitting that lost a bit as well.
> This one is my most beat up one that I have you can see almost all the paint is gone from the threads; however, the other side of the threads are fine:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the compression part is spotless but I lost a tiny bit of paint on the threads again but only what you can see is what has been lost, paint wise:
> 
> Small chips on the white and the inside is actually fine its just the shadow of the lighting:
> 
> 
> 
> I love these fittings for the design of how they have been made but I must say they need to use some thicker or at least stronger paint on them as it does come off sometimes.
> As for the inside of the fittings they are all clean and clear of any damage it is just the threading and bottom of the outside fitting in which I have shown are damaged
> NOTE: I insist you click on the pictures to see what it actually looks like


Yeah I think they are great, I have the chrome ones and haven't had any issues with them yet. The color off the threads is to be expected, but that bit of white chipped of the bottom of the nut...that would worry me. From what I have heard Gary at monsoon is good for replacements in cases like that.
Monsoon contact: [email protected]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Since you're on the West end, check with SCUBA or N2theBlue, both have west end facilities. All the wrecks are on the west end, and it's usually calmer seas than the north shore. They can also give you the best updates on where to see what.
> It's been a while since I was as much into extreme diving as now it's extreme PCs.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Darlene, is there anything you haven't done/can't do?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried this with there rads? I'm just playing around with build ideas and am wondering if there would be any cons to doing it. Flow would enter from the loop into bottom right rad and to the res from top left rad. Rads would be parrellel connected basically. I put some fittings and tubing just for a visual but could use some sort of sli fittings if it worked out..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/
There was a good study done on that specific rad orientation^
Short story: stacked (or sandwiched) rads *almost always perform worse* than just a single rad in the same situation/orientation.
Edit: If pursuing this orientation, low FPI combined with high fan pressure is ideal.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Nice! Thanks for the word Philly!
> Yeah I think they are great, I have the chrome ones and haven't had any issues with them yet. The color off the threads is to be expected, but that bit of whit chipped of the bottom of the nut...that would worry me. From what I have heard Gary @monsoon is good for replacements in cases like that.
> Monsoon contact: [email protected]
> Is there anything you haven't done/can't do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/
> There was a good study done on that specific rad orientation^


Lol I aksed geno for some sponsorships,







sadly, nada for now.
Don't really see alot of Monsoon parts around, so im guessing not many have bought monsoon yet.
Meaning no OCN sponsorship projects lol.

kinda sad.








please buy more monsoon guys.


----------



## phillyd

I'm sponsored! Check out my Water Phantom build!
Going to get the angled ones for my Switch[Box] Build soon as well!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'm sponsored! Check out my Water Phantom build!
> Going to get the angled ones for my Switch[Box] Build soon as well!


Awesome, cant wait to see...
I was sponsored too!!! (by my wife)







...just because she loves me!


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/
> There was a good study done on that specific rad orientation^
> Short story: stacked (or sandwiched) rads *almost always perform worse* than just a single rad in the same situation/orientation.
> Edit: If pursuing this orientation, low FPI combined with high fan pressure is ideal.


I believe the monstra's are around 10fpi and I'm planning on running scythe kaze 3000 rpm fans for where the two rads are and some slimmer fans where it's just the 480.


----------



## protzman

@ nightryder, looks like a cool idea, tho it seems to me you would either need to have both of the fittings on either the top or the bottom, and what would be the point of having the rads connected twice?
seems to me like you would want it to go in the right rad at the bottom. Down the bottom side of the rad up the. Back towards us (from the way the pic is taken) in the top of the rad, Across to the other rad, away from us on the top of the rad. Then back towards us again on the bottom of the rad and out a fitting on the bottom (again).

maybe? who knows


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Lol I aksed geno for some sponsorships,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sadly, nada for now.
> Don't really see alot of Monsoon parts around, so im guessing not many have bought monsoon yet.
> Meaning no OCN sponsorship projects lol.
> kinda sad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please buy more monsoon guys.


Ok, fine.


----------



## TeamBlue

Sorry for the thread double-tap, but I could really use some votes over at cooledpc.com , I just got my rig together and am way late to the game.

http://www.cooledpc.com/build/250

WHITEOUT


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> @ nightryder, looks like a cool idea, tho it seems to me you would either need to have both of the fittings on either the top or the bottom, and what would be the point of having the rads connected twice?
> seems to me like you would want it to go in the right rad at the bottom. Down the bottom side of the rad up the. Back towards us (from the way the pic is taken) in the top of the rad, Across to the other rad, away from us on the top of the rad. Then back towards us again on the bottom of the rad and out a fitting on the bottom (again).
> 
> maybe? who knows


Well originally I planned on it still entering lower right rad then from the top right down to lower left rad and finally out top to the res. But had that idea pop up to parallel them and thought I would get some feedback on if it's been tryed before and if so what results it would have oppose to a normal setup.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'm sponsored! Check out my Water Phantom build!
> Going to get the angled ones for my Switch[Box] Build soon as well!


but philly... your a rep from Performance-PC does that count?


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

I had both 6970 blocks on xfx cards


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'm sponsored! Check out my Water Phantom build!
> Going to get the angled ones for my Switch[Box] Build soon as well!
> 
> 
> 
> but philly... your a rep from Performance-PC does that count?
Click to expand...

Yes!
I got sponsored by Performance-PC's, then shortly after by Monsoon, Danger Den and NZXT, and a while later, after PPCS responsored me, I diffused a bad situation relating to them here on OCN, and made an offer to Hank! So my sponsorships got me the job!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Yes!
> I got sponsored by Performance-PC's, then shortly after by Monsoon, Danger Den and NZXT, and a while later, after PPCS responsored me, I diffused a bad situation relating to them here on OCN, and made an offer to Hank! So my sponsorships got me the job!


Thats an odd method, but, dang.

Hopefully Monsoon comes around and eventually gives me a lift.

Guess Ideally all I want from them are compression and a single bay res.


----------



## golfergolfer

I wish I could be sponsored by PPCS








I could use some things for my matx prodigy...

Such as new tubing, that said what kind should I be getting? As you may recall I had all that ugly plasticizer in my tubes so wondering what do I go with now? Tygon?


----------



## phillyd

http://www.primochill.com/blog/product/primochill-primoflex-pro-lrt-tubing/
MyBadOmen seems pretty sure it will not cloud or degrade!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> I wish I could be sponsored by PPCS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could use some things for my matx prodigy...
> Such as new tubing, that said what kind should I be getting? As you may recall I had all that ugly plasticizer in my tubes so wondering what do I go with now? Tygon?


that reminds me!

I did ask PPCS for some sponsorship


----------



## phillyd

My tips for those of you trying to get sponsored:

Find the company you are interested in
Find a product that is new, special, or underrated
Plan something special for the product (unboxing/review, mods...)
Find the right email, usually the sales department (for PPCS you'll want to send an email to [email protected])
Formulate a thorough request include who you are, your past PC experience, builds, mods, and accomplishments. Proceed to explain your build plan, give a parts list, and leave out the things you'd like to get from them. Show how the mod will advertise their company and/or products. Ask for a lot, but give options for less. I asked Corsair for a full or partial sponsorship for any or all of the following: fans, PSU, SSD's, RAM, keyboard, mouse, case, and headset, they basically gave me a blank check for fans. Reiterate how their logo, name, and product will be shown on the web and locally. Be thorough, confident, polite and professional. Also don't be afraid of a little persistence. Danger Den originally just wanted to give me a small discount, but after some more questions and discussion they caved and gave me hundreds in hardware over time. Oh and if you have any sponsors, mention them in the build description
Reread it, proof it, reproof it, reread it, rethink it, and then send it. If you get no response after a week, feel free to try a different email or department. If they don't have an email address on the website, use phone or the little support forms to get a direct email contact.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> My tips for those of you trying to get sponsored:
> 
> Find the company you are interested in
> Find a product that is new, special, or underrated
> Plan something special for the product (unboxing/review, mods...)
> Find the right email, usually the sales department (for PPCS you'll want to send an email to [email protected])
> Formulate a thorough request include who you are, your past PC experience, builds, mods, and accomplishments. Proceed to explain your build plan, give a parts list, and leave out the things you'd like to get from them. Show how the mod will advertise their company and/or products. Ask for a lot, but give options for less. I asked Corsair for a full or partial sponsorship for any or all of the following: fans, PSU, SSD's, RAM, keyboard, mouse, case, and headset, they basically gave me a blank check for fans. Reiterate how their logo, name, and product will be shown on the web and locally. Be thorough, confident, polite and professional. Also don't be afraid of a little persistence. Danger Den originally just wanted to give me a small discount, but after some more questions and discussion they caved and gave me hundreds in hardware over time. Oh and if you have any sponsors, mention them in the build description
> Reread it, proof it, reproof it, reread it, rethink it, and then send it. If you get no response after a week, feel free to try a different email or department. If they don't have an email address on the website, use phone or the little support forms to get a direct email contact.


I believe there's an OCN requirement-rule about posting sponsored builds. From what I've been told its an approval and a fee. Just an fyi how they run things here. I hear its the same for many sites since you're practically advertising a company in your build.

Wish I could get sponsorship. My builds just don't have that million-dollar look to them tbh. Just slap things on and go! That's my motto


----------



## derickwm

I. Just. Want. To. Photograph. Your. Rigs. Wermad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I. Just. Want. To. Photograph. Your. Rigs. Wermad.


Haha, it can be put together to illustrate how indecisive I am


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I believe there's an OCN requirement-rule about posting sponsored builds. From what I've been told its an approval and a fee. Just an fyi how they run things here. I hear its the same for many sites since you're practically advertising a company in your build.
> 
> Wish I could get sponsorship. My builds just don't have that million-dollar look to them tbh. Just slap things on and go! That's my motto


Correct! IIRC it's like $29 to get a single sponsored build log. Unfortunately most companies need solid mods and lots of publicity to justify a sponsorship.


----------



## derickwm

Meh, just a solid idea is necessary.

*Looks at own build*


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Meh, just a solid idea is necessary.
> 
> *Looks at own build*


Stick enough money in the same box, anybody will give you free stuff









I am seriously jelly of your build though. Your log has like 20x the traffic of both of mine combined.


----------



## derickwm

I think you'd be surprised by how much money I've actually spent









My log will soon have the most replies of all build logs on OCN, AFAIK.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> My tips for those of you trying to get sponsored:
> 
> Find the company you are interested in
> Find a product that is new, special, or underrated
> Plan something special for the product (unboxing/review, mods...)
> Find the right email, usually the sales department (for PPCS you'll want to send an email to [email protected])
> Formulate a thorough request include who you are, your past PC experience, builds, mods, and accomplishments. Proceed to explain your build plan, give a parts list, and leave out the things you'd like to get from them. Show how the mod will advertise their company and/or products. Ask for a lot, but give options for less. I asked Corsair for a full or partial sponsorship for any or all of the following: fans, PSU, SSD's, RAM, keyboard, mouse, case, and headset, they basically gave me a blank check for fans. Reiterate how their logo, name, and product will be shown on the web and locally. Be thorough, confident, polite and professional. Also don't be afraid of a little persistence. Danger Den originally just wanted to give me a small discount, but after some more questions and discussion they caved and gave me hundreds in hardware over time. Oh and if you have any sponsors, mention them in the build description
> Reread it, proof it, reproof it, reread it, rethink it, and then send it. If you get no response after a week, feel free to try a different email or department. If they don't have an email address on the website, use phone or the little support forms to get a direct email contact.










Pretty much what I did, Monsoon was surprised that I emailed them directly,
but they also said they were out of sponsorship op's this month.

Its not the first time I've ever been sponsored, its the first time i'll ever be sponsored for watercooling.


----------



## Fuganater

PPCs was tough to get as a sponsor. Actually all sponsors are hard to get.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> PPCs was tough to get as a sponsor. Actually all sponsors are hard to get.


It took me a lot to snag Danger Den, then PPCS, Monsoon, and NZXT followed. Later, I picked up Gigabyte, Reeven and Corsair, though NZXT dropped me.


----------



## Fuganater

EK and Bitspower are hard to work with. You have to be pretty well known now to get anything from EK and Bitspower just stops emailing you.


----------



## phillyd

EK has an elite modder team, it is made up of guys with as much skill as MBO, and he is probably on the lesser side of experience in the group (though definitely the most talented I've ever seen).


----------



## Fuganater

I mean they sponsored my last build and current one. Still hard to convince them to sponsor though.


----------



## Ceadderman

I should hit Corsair up considering how much Corsair gear I have run in this system alone. I'm waiting on a pair of 8Gig Dominators 1600 sticks right now. Should be here tomorrow if DHL did right by me. lol

Anyone know how much that Advanced LRT is selling for? I'm not happy that I have to replace my tubing, but if it's at a reasonable cost I can give PrimoChill another chance considering they aren't the only company having clouding issues. But I think that people that own Pro LRT tubing should at least get some kind of discount on our next purchase of PrimoChill tubing. That's only fair considering my tubing wasn't even 6 months old.









~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> EK has an elite modder team, it is made up of guys with as much skill as MBO, and he is probably on the lesser side of experience in the group (though definitely the most talented I've ever seen).


So now you tell me this....

My email probably makes me look like a









Anyways, I went on a rampant sponsorship spree, I might have to retry PPCs again, the right way this time,

with a more professional standpoint and offer.


----------



## derickwm

That was an exaggerated statement. EK sponsors a lot of people.


----------



## kyismaster

well, sent my final copy to PPCs.... time will tell now...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

EK is sponsoring no one right now,not with that cooledpc comp going on.

XSPC doesnt sponsor anyone without trade show exposure.

Watercool doesnt sponsor anyone at all.....

You are better off trying to get a discount with your preferred e-tailer and working up from that,good builds get noticed eventually.
I work with Specialtech,XSPC came later. Thats how i started.

Most importantly,from what i gathered talking to reps at various shows,you must have a clear idea of how your build will benefit the chosen company. Proven previous builds with the products of the manu you want to work with helps greatly,you have to put your money where you mouth is.

I get a lot of rig building work too,sometimes this is better to gain leverage with companies,having a high work rate of good quality and fast turnaround means i get to show off a lot of kit in a short time and that looks good to manu's.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Somebody suggested that parallel loops are not really worth it, is that the Consensus?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK is sponsoring no one right now,not with that cooledpc comp going on.
> XSPC doesnt sponsor anyone without trade show exposure.
> Watercool doesnt sponsor anyone at all.....
> You are better off trying to get a discount with your preferred e-tailer and working up from that,good builds get noticed eventually.
> I work with Specialtech,XSPC came later. Thats how i started.
> Most importantly,from what i gathered talking to reps at various shows,you must have a clear idea of how your build will benefit the chosen company. Proven previous builds with the products of the manu you want to work with helps greatly,you have to put your money where you mouth is.
> I get a lot of rig building work too,sometimes this is better to gain leverage with companies,having a high work rate of good quality and fast turnaround means i get to show off a lot of kit in a short time and that looks good to manu's.


this, got my denial today.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Edit


----------



## Ginola

Here's a couple of mine, old and new please add me to list


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried this with there rads? I'm just playing around with build ideas and am wondering if there would be any cons to doing it. Flow would enter from the loop into bottom right rad and to the res from top left rad. Rads would be parrellel connected basically. I put some fittings and tubing just for a visual but could use some sort of sli fittings if it worked out..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Has been tried before. It will definitely increase your temps, especially since those are the thickest rads you can get.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Interior is done,just the final buff and cut on the front panel to do....


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interior is done,just the final buff and cut on the front panel to do....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks Real Good..









Oh.. Your Missing PMP-500. I found it..









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Explosivegamer*
> 
> Here is my second water cooling build I did after getting bit by the bug. My first project got turned into my server. This thing in a beast and runs like a champ. Sleeving the cables was quite a bit of work but I was happy with the results.
> Heres some specs
> Caselabs TH10 airbrushed
> EVGA x79 classified EK blocks
> 3960x 4.9ghz
> Corsair 16gb 2133
> EVGA 680 classified 1420/6800 SLI
> Corsair AX1200
> Dual Swiftech pumps in a EK dual pump housing
> SR-1 480 rads with GT-AP15 in push/pull x2
> all other fans are Pyoba 1500rpm
> Koolance CPU-370I block
> EVGA Hydrocopper blocks
> EK chipset blocks
> Primochill fluid with red UV dye
> Intel 510 SSD 240gb x2 in raid 0
> 2tb WD black
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Explosivegamer


Love that case, hell of a system you have there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Got some goodies in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh jeez what are you up to this time

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished my loop but I think there is a problem. When I touch the tubing there is very little flow on my hand, im not sure if this directly relates to not enough flow in the tube. I am using high flow compression fittings, I think I have tightened them correctly, as there is no leaks for about 4 hours now. Could tightening them too much cause bad flow? Anyways, my setup goes from bay res, to pump, to gtx 690 xspc water block, (which I also think i connected the fittings on correctly), to raystorm cpu block, to rad rx480 rad, and then goes to another rx480 rad and finally finishes back at the res.
> I will probably go from 690 block to rad then to cpu then to the 2nd rad, as two huge rads right after each other seems pointless.
> This is my pump, http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33677&zenid=dc99e1bd8f0d6db1847fa43fed28cab2
> Anyway, when I put my hand on the tube that goes from the res to the pump, I can feel a bit of flow. When I put my hand from the discharge of the pump going up to the 690 block, I feel a great amount of flow. But that is where it stops, from the 690 to the cpu there is no pressure that I can feel, and the same thing all the way to the end of the res. The water is flowing I think as I see air bubbles entering the res from the input. This is all with my pump on max speed.
> Also, when I tip the case over the noise of the pump changes, it feels like the pump is getting flooded on inside, like a gulping noise, after about 15 seconds it stops. No leakage anywhere though.
> Help would be greatly appreciated


Are you up and running now? Forget what you feel, let the temperatures tell us.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> They had nothing I need...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a tripple rad stand or a case but no dice.


I couldn't find the dangerden 3x360 stand on the site







for 75% off I'd buy another stand.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interior is done,just the final buff and cut on the front panel to do....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










love how well the colours blend in the build. what else is planned?

also, can we now finally learn the secretes of the 360 rad mount?


----------



## Fonne

*Coollaboratory ALPHEOS*

http://coollaboratory.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/41/osCsid/fd38f9f0622b3c6923bde54903ba3d7f



A new one ? - Newer seen it before ...


----------



## Collins311

My build, Symbiote. A lot of sleeving/cable management and some more lighting to do.


----------



## derickwm

Nice rig bud


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interior is done,just the final buff and cut on the front panel to do....


Man that's looking nice. Great details! I considered that case before I bought my Switch. Now I'm kinda wishing I had went with it. I really don't need all the real estate the Switch 810 has.
Anyway, nice work B!


----------



## derickwm

How are temps on setups like this? I think they look pretty damn good but performance looks questionable.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Yes!
> I got sponsored by Performance-PC's, then shortly after by Monsoon, Danger Den and NZXT, and a while later, after PPCS responsored me, I diffused a bad situation relating to them here on OCN, and made an offer to Hank! So my sponsorships got me the job!


all hail the mighty diffuser









Gz on your sponsorship.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> http://www.primochill.com/blog/product/primochill-primoflex-pro-lrt-tubing/
> MyBadOmen seems pretty sure it will not cloud or degrade!


No comment..............
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interior is done,just the final buff and cut on the front panel to do....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excellent piece of work B Neg, on what is not the easiest of cases to work on +1 rep mate (not that you you need it







)


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are temps on setups like this? I think they look pretty damn good but performance looks questionable.


if you think of it, you have fresh cool water going to each block. no serial connections there.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are temps on setups like this? I think they look pretty damn good but performance looks questionable.


If you have enough pressure with the pumps they'll all get even amounts of water. The restriction from the CPU block at the end (hoping you have a nozel plate) might be enough to get water through all the FC GPU blocks. Anyways that's how my reasoning goes. Again, pressure and probably more than one pump and it should work... I think.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Collins311*
> 
> My build, Symbiote. A lot of sleeving/cable management and some more lighting to do.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is real nice

The only advice I have isn't pertinent to modding. First get a camera stand (tripod) and read up on the photography guide. It'll do wonders for your rig!

Photography guide linky


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are temps on setups like this? I think they look pretty damn good but performance looks questionable.


I feel so inadequate....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It has flow going to both in and out on the CPU block?

Cant see it working right myself........


----------



## Michalius

Wouldn't the water naturally want to go away from the pressure? Really, the two tubes are straight lines. One of them has pressure behind it, so the other would naturally flow back down. At least that is how it is working in my napkin from a liberal-arts degree physics model.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are temps on setups like this? I think they look pretty damn good but performance looks questionable.


The temperatures should be fine as long as the flow rate is high enough. It would take a very high flow rate to get good temps if I'm thinking correctly.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It has flow going to both in and out on the CPU block?
> 
> Cant see it working right myself........


That was my thoughts at first. After studying it for a bit I can see how high flow/pressure could get it to work properly but... it still seems off. I want to try it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Wouldn't the water naturally want to go away from the pressure? Really, the two tubes are straight lines. One of them has pressure behind it, so the other would naturally flow back down. At least that is how it is working in my napkin from a liberal-arts degree physics model.


Yay for liberal arts degrees









Also hello fellow WA person


----------



## Collins311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> This is real nice
> The only advice I have isn't pertinent to modding. First get a camera stand (tripod) and read up on the photography guide. It'll do wonders for your rig!
> Photography guide linky


I'm so embarrassed to say I actually run an ebay/amazon store for a living and have professional photography equipment in my warehouse. This was just taken at home with my phone. I appreciate the link though and the tip. If I ever get back to working on this thing, I'll actually take the time to take some decent photos...but I'm avoiding sleeving the cables. Maybe I'll just get some extensions.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Collins311*
> 
> I'm so embarrassed to say I actually run an ebay/amazon store for a living and have professional photography equipment in my warehouse. This was just taken at home with my phone. I appreciate the link though and the tip. If I ever get back to working on this thing, I'll actually take the time to take some decent photos...but I'm avoiding sleeving the cables. Maybe I'll just get some extensions.


You're going to deprive us of a wonderful build? You're mean you know that!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are temps on setups like this? I think they look pretty damn good but performance looks questionable.


hands down, clean rig 10/10 lol. very nice color scheme too, know what case that is by the way?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Collins311*
> 
> I'm so embarrassed to say I actually run an ebay/amazon store for a living and have professional photography equipment in my warehouse. This was just taken at home with my phone. I appreciate the link though and the tip. If I ever get back to working on this thing, I'll actually take the time to take some decent photos...but I'm avoiding sleeving the cables. Maybe I'll just get some extensions.


I don't trust extensions at all. I either make my own cables for a modular PSU or sleeve the ones it comes with.


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> hands down, clean rig 10/10 lol. very nice color scheme too, know what case that is by the way?


Looks like a lian li PC-X2000.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Looks like a lian li PC-X2000.


cough, its 420 dollars.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> hands down, clean rig 10/10 lol. very nice color scheme too, know what case that is by the way?


Judging by the side facing 5.25" drive bays, I'm going to say it's a *Lian-Li PC-X2000F*.

Edit: Slow typer.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I'm already a member but I thought I'd post a pic from my new build


Such a clean and flawless case.







I'm still on the fence between buying that one or the SM8.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are temps on setups like this? I think they look pretty damn good but performance looks questionable.


If this is the guy who I think it is, Elder from xtremesystems and a few other forums, every build I've seen him do is outstanding. I saw his 800D build back when I was starting my 700D build and it just blew me away. He changed color schemes so much so it was always looking different. Looks like he got a new case though, but still just as impressive. He was also the first person I saw with a Lund res, which got me searching all over the place for it and finally found it on a UK site


----------



## kyismaster

It looks like im going to have to order a bunch of stuff from PPCs


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like im going to have to order a bunch of stuff from PPCs


While you're at it, order me some stuff too


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> cough, its 420 dollars.


The ABS Canyon 695 twin sold for ~$150 a year or two ago when they phased it out and ABS looks like they went out of business (or newegg killed it). The other Lian LI twin hasn't budged from ~$400-500. Seems like the Lian Li name still commands a higher price.

Knowing Derick, he might have gotten a sweet deal on this though







.

My gpu upgrade is done, now to get them on water


----------



## Michalius

Put a new fun toy in my recording/secondary PC this weekend. The H60 means I can post it in here, right?

With some leftover parts after finishing my main build, I think I'm going to finally put this under water as well. The R4 should present a fun challenge.



Here's hoping for some RoG Matrix blocks.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> A lot of us think the d5 is better (flame on) but they are certainly bulkier.
> here's one with an xspc res:


Don't hate, I love my res!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The temperatures should be fine as long as the flow rate is high enough. It would take a very high flow rate to get good temps if I'm thinking correctly.


As long as he all the blocks have a similar pressure drop I can see it doing fine. Definitely not something you would want to use a DDC for though.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> cough, its 420 dollars.
> 
> 
> 
> The ABS Canyon 695 twin sold for ~$150 a year or two ago when they phased it out and ABS looks like they went out of business (or newegg killed it). The other Lian LI twin hasn't budged from ~$400-500. Seems like the Lian Li name still commands a higher price.
> 
> Knowing Derick, he might have gotten a sweet deal on this though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> My gpu upgrade is done, now to get them on water
Click to expand...

Hehe if it was mine I most definitely would have







just a picture I saw earlier on FB and had a question about it though, probably should have stated that in my post. Oh well.

What GPUs did you get? I've seen rumours of the 6900 series but I haven't seen any solid info on what you ended up with


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Put a new fun toy in my recording/secondary PC this weekend. The H60 means I can post it in here, right?
> With some leftover parts after finishing my main build, I think I'm going to finally put this under water as well. The R4 should present a fun challenge.
> 
> Here's hoping for some RoG Matrix blocks.


Sweet







. Yes, closed loops are welcomed here
















Not sure, but isn't the Matrix pcb similar to the DCII? I haven't researched it since Matrix' are very scarce. Uni block a possibility for ya?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Yes, closed loops are welcomed here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure, but isn't the Matrix pcb similar to the DCII? I haven't researched it since Matrix' are very scarce. Uni block a possibility for ya?


Posted this the other day but heres a 7970 Matrix with a Uni. Swiftech block. With maxed voltage temps stayed below 43C. Worked really well. Was able to keep the smexy matrix backplate on as well.


----------



## almighty15

Mine..


----------



## Michalius

Nah. This thing runs really quiet and cool, so my main reason for water cooling on this would be aesthetics/fun. Universal blocks kind of kill that for me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Mine..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The curse of the unpainted bridge......


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are temps on setups like this? I think they look pretty damn good but performance looks questionable.


It looks so good, have been planing on testing this setup for a long time but is missing a waterblock. But as you say, i would be worried about temps and that would be my biggest concern about using this setup.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Don't hate, I love my res!


What coolant are you running?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe if it was mine I most definitely would have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just a picture I saw earlier on FB and had a question about it though, probably should have stated that in my post. Oh well.
> What GPUs did you get? I've seen rumours of the 6900 series but I haven't seen any solid info on what you ended up with


Needed more vram, so I went with, ahem, four gtx 580 3gbs








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Posted this the other day but heres a 7970 Matrix with a Uni. Swiftech block. With maxed voltage temps stayed below 43C. Worked really well. Was able to keep the smexy matrix backplate on as well.


Nice







. Uni blocks (universal blocks) will work just as good as full cover blocks when it comes to the core. The downside is to find a way to cool the vram and vrm on the gpu. Heatsinks and some decent airflow should suffice. Or stick on a big fan for more cooling powah!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Mine..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I nice. I like to see multi uni blocks in action








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Nah. This thing runs really quiet and cool, so my main reason for water cooling on this would be aesthetics/fun. Universal blocks kind of kill that for me.


Kewl. Well, you can always mod the shroud to incorporate a uni block. i've seen it done w/ both universal blocks and closed loops. keep one of the fans on the cooler for the vram and vrm. Sort of a stealth water cooling look to it. Looks pretty good imho.


----------



## Rognin

Four 3GB 580's?!









Damn 1155 sockets and tri-sli support. I should have waited for the X79 platfrom and gotten a quad setup...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needed more vram, so I went with, ahem, four gtx 580 3gbs


I approve of this.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey Guys what fittings do i need to connect these to reservoirs to the top of the koolance pump top?

























And id also what your opinion on which reservoir you guys would look better in my build the black derlin aquacomputer rez or the bitspower one?
Its going where the current ek pump/rez combo in the pic!


----------



## Phelan

Never posted mine in here







. Here it is, while it lasts!!! I just finished it a couple weeks ago


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needed more vram, so I went with, ahem, *four gtx 580 3gbs*












I also approve of this.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Four 3GB 580's?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn 1155 sockets and tri-sli support. I should have waited for the X79 platfrom and gotten a quad setup...


Z77 does support 4-way sli using the PLX PEX. I bought an EVGA Z77 FTW again since its the cheapest lga1155 4-way sli mb out there. I might return it to get a Gigabyte Sniper3 Z77 if the EVGA continues to be flaky. Asrock Extreme9 Z77, MVE Z77 support 4-way sli too. I did go to X79 just for the 4-way since the Z77 were late to the party this year, it was ok but the 3820 was decent on the Asrock X79. Keep the 2700k and get a z77 board. I got better clocks on z77 compared to my previous p67 mb (Asus ws p67).

edit: its a good time for 580 3gb. I knew as soon as the 7970 started kissing the $300 USD marker, 580 3gb would come down in price. I bought a new one for $300 (Zotac) and three EVGA for $250 each (~6-9 months old). Time out fit them with water.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I approve of this.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also approve of this.



















Hopefully my SS will handle them


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey Guys what fittings do i need to connect these to reservoirs to the top of the koolance pump top?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And id also what your opinion on which reservoir you guys would look better in my build the black derlin aquacomputer rez or the bitspower one?
> Its going where the current ek pump/rez combo in the pic!


Sorry to double post, for some reason your pics disappeared so I didn't post.

Anyways, you can attach a koolance reservoir tube on the actual top. For the other res, you can use any rotary male to male fitting. You can use sli links but I wouldn't recommend them.


----------



## IT Diva

On the subject of Matrix 7970's, . . . . .

One in, . . . . . Two to go . . . .

Just had to check the fit and see how it compared to the old 6970 that went back to its home in the white phantom rig.

And yes, I have a plan to WC the 3 of them, so they all 3 fit in with the Revo drive in the 4th slot.

At the risk of making the parts I need for my water cooling plan go instantly out of stock everywhere, here's how I plan to cool them:

Going to use EK VGA Supreme HF blocks, the bridge and link model but no bridge, because the card is 1" too tall.

In place of the bridge, I'll use two Bitspower triple rotary, male to male 90's, rotated to work as offsets, as offset/extenders from the block with "T"'s on them for each card, with the crystal link bits to tie them all together creating a parallel configuration.

I'll probably have to create custom length crystal links, which shouldn't be a problem.

As it turns out, the EK 2 slot I/O bracket for the Asus DCII 7970's also fits the Matrix. I have 1, so I tried it, so the 2 slot mounting requirement is taken care of.

It's not a cheap solution, but it's the only way to get tri / quad fire Matrixes.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12720/ex-tub-814/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_90_Degree_Triple_Rotary_Fitting_Adapter_Male_to_Male_BP-MB90R3G.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10744/ex-tub-669/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Crystal_Link_Tube_Set_-_2_Slot_Spacing_BP-CLTAC-S2.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16063/ex-blc-1111/EK_HD_7970_DCII_VGA_IO_Bracket_EK-FC7970_DCII_IO_bracket.html

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> On the subject of Matrix 7970's, . . . . .
> One in, . . . . . Two to go . . . .
> Just had to check the fit and see how it compared to the old 6970 that went back to its home in the white phantom rig.
> And yes, I have a plan to WC the 3 of them, so they all 3 fit in with the Revo drive in the 4th slot.
> At the risk of making the parts I need for my water cooling plan go instantly out of stock everywhere, here's how I plan to cool them:
> Going to use EK VGA Supreme HF blocks, the bridge and link model but no bridge, because the card is 1" too tall.
> In place of the bridge, I'll use two Bitspower triple rotary, male to male 90's, rotated to work as offsets, as offset/extenders from the block with "T"'s on them for each card, with the crystal link bits to tie them all together creating a parallel configuration.
> I'll probably have to create custom length crystal links, which shouldn't be a problem.
> As it turns out, the EK 2 slot I/O bracket for the Asus DCII 7970's also fits the Matrix. I have 1, so I tried it, so the 2 slot mounting requirement is taken care of.
> It's not a cheap solution, but it's the only way to get tri / quad fire Matrixes.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12720/ex-tub-814/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_90_Degree_Triple_Rotary_Fitting_Adapter_Male_to_Male_BP-MB90R3G.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10744/ex-tub-669/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Crystal_Link_Tube_Set_-_2_Slot_Spacing_BP-CLTAC-S2.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16063/ex-blc-1111/EK_HD_7970_DCII_VGA_IO_Bracket_EK-FC7970_DCII_IO_bracket.html
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you looked at the Watercool block with the vrm section connected? Would ideal in this instance,you would only have to take care of the VRAM then and thats easily done with 3rd party heatsinks.

EDIT: nvm,they dont offset enough...

Can you give a measurement from the first mount hole to the edge of the board please?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> On the subject of Matrix 7970's, . . . . .
> One in, . . . . . Two to go . . . .
> Just had to check the fit and see how it compared to the old 6970 that went back to its home in the white phantom rig.
> And yes, I have a plan to WC the 3 of them, so they all 3 fit in with the Revo drive in the 4th slot.
> At the risk of making the parts I need for my water cooling plan go instantly out of stock everywhere, here's how I plan to cool them:
> Going to use EK VGA Supreme HF blocks, the bridge and link model but no bridge, because the card is 1" too tall.
> In place of the bridge, I'll use two Bitspower triple rotary, male to male 90's, rotated to work as offsets, as offset/extenders from the block with "T"'s on them for each card, with the crystal link bits to tie them all together creating a parallel configuration.
> I'll probably have to create custom length crystal links, which shouldn't be a problem.
> As it turns out, the EK 2 slot I/O bracket for the Asus DCII 7970's also fits the Matrix. I have 1, so I tried it, so the 2 slot mounting requirement is taken care of.
> It's not a cheap solution, but it's the only way to get tri / quad fire Matrixes.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12720/ex-tub-814/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_90_Degree_Triple_Rotary_Fitting_Adapter_Male_to_Male_BP-MB90R3G.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10744/ex-tub-669/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Crystal_Link_Tube_Set_-_2_Slot_Spacing_BP-CLTAC-S2.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16063/ex-blc-1111/EK_HD_7970_DCII_VGA_IO_Bracket_EK-FC7970_DCII_IO_bracket.html
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


triple Matrix'







(or Matracies, ???,







)


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sorry to double post, for some reason your pics disappeared so I didn't post.
> Anyways, you can attach a koolance reservoir tube on the actual top. For the other res, you can use any rotary male to male fitting. You can use sli links but I wouldn't recommend them.


perfect found what im looking for, is there any problems i should know about with the aquacomputer rez? because i there that's the one im going to go for!

dumb question, does the rez always has to be on the inlet side of the pump ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> perfect found what im looking for, is there any problems i should know about with the aquacomputer rez? because i there that's the one im going to go for!
> dumb question, does the rez always has to be on the inlet side of the pump ?


Yes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> perfect found what im looking for, is there any problems i should know about with the aquacomputer rez? because i there that's the one im going to go for!
> dumb question, does the rez always has to be on the inlet side of the pump ?


Never heard of any issues, go for it







. Its recommend to have a good supply of liquid to the pump, so ideally you want the res connected to the inlet of the pump. Your pump top comes with a bracket that will have the inlet pointing up. Then just connect your res above that. Make sure the res is secured as well.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is this the inlet or outlet, im confused


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is this the inlet or outlet, im confused


Inlet


----------



## hollywood406

I would guess inlet (too) since it's labeled reservoir


----------



## Willhemmens

Indeed, it is the inlet.


----------



## Qu1ckset

ugh its not going to work the way i want it to then.... i think im just going to buy a replacement dcp 4.0 reservoir then, and replace the broken peace of the rez instead of having to unmount and mount the one thats attached to the pump, such a annoying process lol..

use the extra 200+ on upgrades for my laptop


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> ugh its not going to work the way i want it to then.... i think im just going to buy a replacement dcp 4.0 reservoir then, and replace the broken peace of the rez instead of having to unmount and mount the one thats attached to the pump, such a annoying process lol..
> use the extra 200+ on upgrades for my laptop


Did you be any chance have any alcohol in that res at anytime or did you just over tighten it?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have you looked at the Watercool block with the vrm section connected? Would ideal in this instance,you would only have to take care of the VRAM then and thats easily done with 3rd party heatsinks.
> EDIT: nvm,they dont offset enough...
> Can you give a measurement from the first mount hole to the edge of the board please?


They come with a nice little heatsink to use with LN2 pots, so I'll be using them and adding some directed air flow over them.

It's not as good as a full coverage block, but untill or even if, a FC solution comes along, that's the best and perhaps only, option I can think of for tri or quad matrices.

When you say first mounting hole, are you meaning the lower (closest to the PCIe card connector) holes that the GPU heatsink attaches thru? . . .

Or the first ones down from the top of the card?

The top edge of the card's PCB is 33 mm above the top of the rear I/O bracket (~ 1 5/16" for the imperial folks )

Overall, the card is 25mm or 1" taller than most GPUs.

The top edge of the card's PCB is 54 mm above the center of the top mounting screws for the heatsink ( ~2 1/8" for the imperial folks )

The top edge of the card's PCB is 107 mm above the center of the lower mounting screws for the heatsink (~ 4.212" for the imperial folks )

Hope that helped,

Darlene


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is this the inlet or outlet, im confused


Here's mine with the Koolance 200mm x 80mm reservoir fitted:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Did you be any chance have any alcohol in that res at anytime or did you just over tighten it?


No never used alcohol, and ive never screwed the rez lid on fully because it had a long thread anyways and never messed with the bottom thread so it couldn't be from over tightening, i think it was a factory defect, but i have no real way of proving it, so il just spend the $40 and replace it and hope it doesn't happen again.. instead of paying $240 for a whole new pump/rez setup..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> ugh its not going to work the way i want it to then.... i think im just going to buy a replacement dcp 4.0 reservoir then, and replace the broken peace of the rez instead of having to unmount and mount the one thats attached to the pump, such a annoying process lol..
> use the extra 200+ on upgrades for my laptop


Did you try to rma it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Here's mine with the Koolance 200mm x 80mm reservoir fitted:


That's how my ddc top is w/ the tube res. Nice looking setup there


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They come with a nice little heatsink to use with LN2 pots, so I'll be using them and adding some directed air flow over them.
> It's not as good as a full coverage block, but untill or even if, a FC solution comes along, that's the best and perhaps only, option I can think of for tri or quad matrices.
> When you say first mounting hole, are you meaning the lower (closest to the PCIe card connector) holes that the GPU heatsink attaches thru? . . .
> Or the first ones down from the top of the card?
> The top edge of the card's PCB is 33 mm above the top of the rear I/O bracket (~ 1 5/16" for the imperial folks )
> Overall, the card is 25mm or 1" taller than most GPUs.
> The top edge of the card's PCB is 54 mm above the center of the top mounting screws for the heatsink ( ~2 1/8" for the imperial folks )
> The top edge of the card's PCB is 107 mm above the center of the lower mounting screws for the heatsink (~ 4.212" for the imperial folks )
> Hope that helped,
> Darlene


*@IT Diva*

Keep in mind that the EK universal block will not work for AMD 79XX series without the use of a shim (Link). I suggest using the Swiftech 79XX specific universal block. As I did in these pictures:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> If this is the guy who I think it is, Elder from xtremesystems and a few other forums, every build I've seen him do is outstanding. I saw his 800D build back when I was starting my 700D build and it just blew me away. He changed color schemes so much so it was always looking different. Looks like he got a new case though, but still just as impressive. He was also the first person I saw with a Lund res, which got me searching all over the place for it and finally found it on a UK site


If you cant find Jon's (Lund) reservoirs in the [email protected] any retailer, just drop him a line and he will accommodate you as he has done for me, his shipping rates are also very reasonable

-im sure he wont mind me sharing his address:[email protected]

He's a really nice guy and has done some superb rigs in the past-he is based in Denmark.


----------



## chino1974

Quick question guys. Which would give better performance a jingway technologies DP600-P or an XSPC X20 750 res/pump combo? I am currently using the DP600-P but I have a spare X20 750 here and was wondering if it would be worth swapping out? I know the DP is rated at 600 and the X20 at 750 but don't know any of the other specs. I am only running 2 blocks at the moment and 120,280 and 360 rads with only 1 45 degree compression fitting.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Quick question guys. Which would give better performance a jingway technologies DP600-P or an XSPC X20 750 res/pump combo? I am currently using the DP600-P but I have a spare X20 750 here and was wondering if it would be worth swapping out? I know the DP is rated at 600 and the X20 at 750 but don't know any of the other specs. I am only running 2 blocks at the moment and 120,280 and 360 rads with only 1 45 degree compression fitting.


Stay away from the xspc pump/res unit. Its known to have some serious faults especially some loud and annoying rattle. Xspc will replace it for you if you meet their rma requirements. But its just a hassle.


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Green flow


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stay away from the xspc pump/res unit. Its known to have some serious faults especially some loud and annoying rattle. Xspc will replace it for you if you meet their rma requirements. But its just a hassle.


Was it the 750 Werm? I have 2 of them, one in my sig rig and another in my sons rig that is over a year old. They both run strong and quiet. Now the XSPC X20 single bay pump/res combo is another story. I have had three of them go bad (2 in customer builds) and RMA was a PITA! SVC said I needed to RMA through XSPC and that I would have to email them a video of the failed and/or noisy units. These little combo units were only $40 to begin with so I just ate it and never looked back.

I late read that the little pumps in the XSPC X20 had been changed for a better and quieter version. I wasn't willing to try it again though. I mean how would I know if I was getting a new revised or some old stock noisy unit that a reseller needed to get rid of.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stay away from the xspc pump/res unit. Its known to have some serious faults especially some loud and annoying rattle. Xspc will replace it for you if you meet their rma requirements. But its just a hassle.


This is exactly the reason I deleted mine, a loud rattle that drove me nuts









I remember looking on youtube about the noise and was quite shocked at how many videos there were of noisey units


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> This is exactly the reason I deleted mine, a loud rattle that drove me nuts


Oh Lord! Now both you guys are worrying me. Maybe I lucked out and got a couple of good units.


----------



## wermad

I had three do this on my. I lost out on one of them. There's a reason why they resale cheap









Though, its been a while so maybe xspc took note of the numerous rma's for it and did something about it? Personally, I would stick with a stand alone pump and stick in a bay res


----------



## NostraD

Well I'm currently patronizing just about every other pump type there is in one rig or another (even a submersible pond pump lol). The only one I don't have running ATM (or a version thereof) is the D5. This might be a reason to start a whole new build...








Getting the lady of the estate to concur may be a challenge...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had three do this on my. I lost out on one of them. There's a reason why they resale cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, its been a while so maybe xspc took note of the numerous rma's for it and did something about it? Personally, I would stick with a stand alone pump and stick in a bay res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I agree (even though my pump is on my CPU block lol). I have a Swiftech Maelstrtom and love it. Very high quality.


----------



## Plutonium10

Do you guys think this res would be alright to bleed? I know some people are saying single bay reservoirs are a PITA but I like how they look.



My plan is to equip the fillport on top with a 90 degree rotary and ball valve that can be turned sideways during normal operation or pointed out the front of the computer when the front panel is off. Then I could just screw an extra bit of hose into the ball valve, open the valve, and add more water without any risk of spillage inside the computer. Not sure if I'm explaining that well or not.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had three do this on my. I lost out on one of them. There's a reason why they resale cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, its been a while so maybe xspc took note of the numerous rma's for it and did something about it? Personally, I would stick with a stand alone pump and stick in a bay res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I opted not to get the XSPC bayres pictured above and instead bought the one below when I was buying my w/c parts.. paired up with a Alphacool VPP655 pump. Glad I did after hearing about the issues with the one above. Even tho the 'revised' one has the issues fixed.. or does it?


----------



## HulkMode

Not to butt in, but I was told to check here for the answers to my watercooling questions!
Basically I am using a Asus Rampage IV Mobo with 4 680's and putting it all under water very shortly as the cards are dying on air being that close to one another.
My questions is this, if I try to WC the mobo, will the cards block the ports for that particular chipset because they are so long?
From all the pictures I have seen, it seems like they would.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HulkMode*
> 
> Not to butt in, but I was told to check here for the answers to my watercooling questions!
> Basically I am using a Asus Rampage IV Mobo with 4 680's and putting it all under water very shortly as the cards are dying on air being that close to one another.
> My questions is this, if I try to WC the mobo, will the cards block the ports for that particular chipset because they are so long?
> From all the pictures I have seen, it seems like they would.


If you get the EK chipset blocks, the ports are just above the top card, so no







.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I agree (even though my pump is on my CPU block lol). I have a Swiftech Maelstrtom and love it. Very high quality.


I love that res! Saw it after I bought my XSPC 750s








Maybe one day I'll swap em out! But I have custom face plates coming from DWood for my XSPC res'.


----------



## HulkMode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If you get the EK chipset blocks, the ports are just above the top card, so no
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Amazing!
Was planning on doing all my blocks EK anyway so this is fantastic news!
Thanks a ton and look for me to be added into here within a few weeks


----------



## derickwm

My loot from DD


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My loot from DD











You spent how much exactly?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> *@IT Diva*
> Keep in mind that the EK universal block will not work for AMD 79XX series without the use of a shim (Link). I suggest using the Swiftech 79XX specific universal block. As I did in these pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know the EK needs that shim, but the advantage I see in the EK, is that the model designed for the link and bridge interconnect system, is only 1" below the top edge of the pcb, and by using the triple rotary male to male 90's rotated as 180 degree offsets that I linked to, I can put T's at all 6 positions, (tri-fire) and use crystal links to create a parallel multi GPU setup quite easily.

The Swiftech offering needs additional extensions along with the offsets, and just seems more parts intensive to plumb in, particularly for a multi gpu setup.

Darlene


----------



## derickwm

I think the total was somewhere around $160 shipped?


----------



## nyk20z3

75% off ftw.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> 75% off ftw.


I'm still waiting for my order. So far, it can't be confirmed it will go through nor will it be cancelled. Gonna wait and be patient


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Before with 1 x HD 7970 and older EK Block



After changing TUBE, Added EX240, Painted RS360 and EX240 to Shinny Silver and Second HD 7970 with EK Bridge.


----------



## phillyd

I got my Danger Den closing order today, syringe, M6 Nickel AMD, black delrin fillport and SLI/Crossfire kit. $36 shipped. Arrived in perfect condition. I miss DD already, they were my first sponsor, and one of my best.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Before with 1 x HD 7970 and older EK Block
> 
> After changing TUBE, Added EX240, Painted RS360 and EX240 to Shinny Silver and Second HD 7970 with EK Bridge.


Very good execution i like it.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, that looks quite good!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My loot from DD


So YOU'RE the one who Bogarted all the QDs! LOL
As soon as I heard I went after some 3/8 x 5/8 fittings and QDs for misc. builds - alas everything was gone 'cept some 1/2" barb fittings and 1/2" green tubing. So I ordered some of that instead...why not, it was cheap!


----------



## Rickles

Yea... I ordered a barb, fillport, and 2 heater cores... not even sure if I will use them but making shrouds for them will give me something to do..


----------



## eskamobob1

hey guys... i will be getting multiple 7970s for my next build (2-4, idk what for sure yet), and i need some advice on the setup... i am currently trying to decide between ASUS DC II 7970s and reference design 7970s. My entire system will be tubeless using straight acrylic tubing and appropriate fittings (similar to what kier does)...i will also be running dual loops with 2 different collor coolants (loop 1: CPU, RAM, Mobo | loop 2: GPUs) and would like to be able to see the color of the coolant between the GPUs... what does you guys think? (i put benefits and downfalls of both GPUs bellow)


Requirements:

These cards wil be watercooled and I will not use any nickel played blocks (and prefer copper blocks)
I am currently using 3 monitors and would like the option to expand to 3x 1440 monitors (on the off chance I do)
block must go well with the rest of my system (ram, CPU and xpower ii blocks by XSPC)
ASUS 7970s:
My concern with these is the connection of the blocks. The rest of my system will be tubeless using crystal links and fittings, so I am concerned about how neat these blocks will look while connected with crystal links (since the EK 7970 DC II blocks only have threads for connectors on one side of the block). The benefit is that it has outputs that actually make sense (mainly the 4x display ports). My thought of how to connect them was to use 90 degrees fittings off of the blocks into "T" connectors and parallel them with crystal thinks from there. the problem is, im not sure sure this will look as nice as i would like (if anyone has a pic of what im describing, that would be great







)

Reference 7970s:
The blocks on these I have a lot more variety to choose from and can definitely connect them nicely. The down side is that they have the ******ed outputs.

What do you guys think I should go with? I'm worked about the looks of the DC IIs while paralleled with crystal links, and the conectivity of the reference cards on the off chance I go with 3x 1440 monitors

NOTE: if you can think of any other 7970s, please recommend away, but they must meet the requirements posted above


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> http://www.primochill.com/blog/product/primochill-primoflex-pro-lrt-tubing/
> MyBadOmen seems pretty sure it will not cloud or degrade!


Hmm I do trust him and his thoughts however I want to go with something I know I wont have any problems with... Any other recommendations?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My tips for those of you trying to get sponsored:
> 
> Find the company you are interested in
> Find a product that is new, special, or underrated
> Plan something special for the product (unboxing/review, mods...)
> Find the right email, usually the sales department (for PPCS you'll want to send an email to [email protected])
> Formulate a thorough request include who you are, your past PC experience, builds, mods, and accomplishments. Proceed to explain your build plan, give a parts list, and leave out the things you'd like to get from them. Show how the mod will advertise their company and/or products. Ask for a lot, but give options for less. I asked Corsair for a full or partial sponsorship for any or all of the following: fans, PSU, SSD's, RAM, keyboard, mouse, case, and headset, they basically gave me a blank check for fans. Reiterate how their logo, name, and product will be shown on the web and locally. Be thorough, confident, polite and professional. Also don't be afraid of a little persistence. Danger Den originally just wanted to give me a small discount, but after some more questions and discussion they caved and gave me hundreds in hardware over time. Oh and if you have any sponsors, mention them in the build description
> Reread it, proof it, reproof it, reread it, rethink it, and then send it. If you get no response after a week, feel free to try a different email or department. If they don't have an email address on the website, use phone or the little support forms to get a direct email contact.


Well there goes my dreams of ever being sponsored :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I should hit Corsair up considering how much Corsair gear I have run in this system alone. I'm waiting on a pair of 8Gig Dominators 1600 sticks right now. Should be here tomorrow if DHL did right by me. lol
> Anyone know how much that Advanced LRT is selling for? I'm not happy that I have to replace my tubing, but if it's at a reasonable cost I can give PrimoChill another chance considering they aren't the only company having clouding issues. But I think that people that own Pro LRT tubing should at least get some kind of discount on our next purchase of PrimoChill tubing. That's only fair considering my tubing wasn't even 6 months old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I sooooo agree with this I have had my tubing for less than 4 months and it is brutal








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Interior is done,just the final buff and cut on the front panel to do....










wow. its. so. beautiful.

Any of you just wish rads could come in white like this? I sure do



vvv

More Pics


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Any of you just wish rads could come in white like this? I sure do


I have mine painted just like that


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hmm I do trust him and his thoughts however I want to go with something I know I wont have any problems with... Any other recommendations?
> Well there goes my dreams of ever being sponsored :/
> I sooooo agree with this I have had my tubing for less than 4 months and it is brutal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow. its. so. beautiful.
> Any of you just wish rads could come in white like this? I sure do
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> vvv
> More Pics


What paint did you use?


----------



## kyismaster

look... what I just bought.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I have mine painted just like that










Great minds think alike








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> What paint did you use?


I just used some simple Krylon Fusion White Paint. Can pick it up almost anywhere and it works great


----------



## Fuganater

Someone was posting universal block pron...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Mine..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Blue dye with a RoG theme...







I so hate conflicting color schemes. Even when the system is as clean as this. Good job but maybe next time go with Red maybe?







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Do you guys think this res would be alright to bleed? I know some people are saying single bay reservoirs are a PITA but I like how they look.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My plan is to equip the fillport on top with a 90 degree rotary and ball valve that can be turned sideways during normal operation or pointed out the front of the computer when the front panel is off. Then I could just screw an extra bit of hose into the ball valve, open the valve, and add more water without any risk of spillage inside the computer. Not sure if I'm explaining that well or not.


I want to either get this one or a Frozen Q with DDC/D5 blocks (for future options) or now I'm also looking at Maelstrom for my Fillport Res.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My loot from DD


I'm so mad, I wanted to get a couple blocks for my 6870s' but couldn't get in. There should really have been a limit on purchases to offset the obvious server limitation. So not only was I not able to get my cards under water I wasn't able to even order a damned thing cause when I tried to take what I did have to checkout the stupid server dropped out. Result, no delrin fillport, no GPU blocks, no HDD block and no tubing. When I finally was able to get in all that was left were barbs. You suck derickwm for flaunting your good fortune!









You're still my bro, but you suck bro!.







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Any of you just wish rads could come in white like this? I sure do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mine painted just like that
Click to expand...

Hmmm I sense some irony here I just can't quite put my finger on where the irony is.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> look... what I just bought.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good choice:thumb:
That XSPC kit will make a nice addition to your build.
Are you planning on putting the 240 rad in the top or the front of the Prodigy?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Before with 1 x HD 7970 and older EK Block
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After changing TUBE, Added EX240, Painted RS360 and EX240 to Shinny Silver and Second HD 7970 with EK Bridge.


What tubing or coolant is that to make it look silver?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Someone was posting universal block pron...




Not as sexy as 4 cards but this is my barebone Gigabyte GTX570's, with EK uni's


----------



## Ceadderman

It's probably Feser's Silver colored Tubing Ging.









~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hmm I do trust him and his thoughts however I want to go with something I know I wont have any problems with... Any other recommendations?
> Well there goes my dreams of ever being sponsored :/
> I sooooo agree with this I have had my tubing for less than 4 months and it is brutal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow. its. so. beautiful.
> *Any of you just wish rads could come in white like this? I sure do*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> vvv
> More Pics


That looks great!









Working on my loop still, bringing the white rads back into my rig as well....only have some quick cell phone pics, better photos will come later











Also this came in


----------



## NewHighScore

Gtx 680 lightning I'm so jelly.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Can't wait to see it Mike! Also, do some vids for your channel!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Finally got it together and bled after a few issues (like a leaking dual rotary fitting







) so here's my new rig. Have to wait a few months (or maybe more) before dropping the 3rd 7970 in it - because I need to get monitors now - one 24" on this is laughably overpowered.









CPU SIDE:









PSU SIDE:









Log HERE.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Plenty of room in that monster! Nice cabling as well!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Gtx 680 lightning I'm so jelly.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Can't wait to see it Mike! Also, do some vids for your channel!


Thanks! I haven't logged into YouTube in months









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Finally got it together and bled after a few issues (like a leaking dual rotary fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so here's my new rig. Have to wait a few months (or maybe more) before dropping the 3rd 7970 in it - because I need to get monitors now - one 24" on this is laughably overpowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU SIDE:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PSU SIDE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Log HERE.


Love that case


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm so mad, I wanted to get a couple blocks for my 6870s' but couldn't get in. There should really have been a limit on purchases to offset the obvious server limitation. So not only was I not able to get my cards under water I wasn't able to even order a damned thing cause when I tried to take what I did have to checkout the stupid server dropped out. Result, no delrin fillport, no GPU blocks, no HDD block and no tubing. When I finally was able to get in all that was left were barbs. You suck derickwm for flaunting your good fortune!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're still my bro, but you suck bro!.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Flaunt it


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Love that case


Me too... when I think of all the hundreds of dollars I've spent on crap over the past several years...

I mean, yes $400-800 is a lot of cash to drop on a case... but considering that I bought the cheapest and arguably smallest (maybe tie with SM8) case they sell and I can guarantee it will last me longer than my last 5-6 ~$200 cases... it's like the best deal in the world.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on my loop still, bringing the white rads back into my rig as well....only have some quick cell phone pics, better photos will come later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also this came in


Looking good as always. Gimme that 680!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Me too... when I think of all the hundreds of dollars I've spent on crap over the past several years...
> I mean, yes $400-800 is a lot of cash to drop on a case... but considering that I bought the cheapest and arguably smallest (maybe tie with SM8) case they sell and I can guarantee it will last me longer than my last 5-6 ~$200 cases... it's like the best deal in the world.


I have to agree with that. Although I don't consider any of the cases I've bought over the past few years crap.....after this rebuild, I definitely think my next case will be a CaseLabs case. I know then, a case like that is a great investment that can last me years and through plenty of rebuilds.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good as always. Gimme that 680!


Thanks man!







And NO


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Also this came in


Only 1??







~~


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Only 1??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~~










All I need

For now


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I need
> For now



















I feel ya bud. Anything more is just ep33n for me. My 670 rocks my dinky 1080p single monitor for all the games I play. But I still do want a 2nd card eventually.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well,thats that build over with.....

Cosmos II is on its way apparently for the next one.


----------



## almighty15

Love the pipe work! Any close up pictures?


----------



## steelkevin

What's with the green LEDs ?
I've really liked that rig since the first pics you posted here. But green ? I really don't think it does any good. Colored LEDs always ruin good looking rigs. Was that the customer's request or did you chose to put those in ?

I'm sorry for being so insensitive but I really believe it looked way better without the Green LEDs.


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue dye with a RoG theme...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I so hate conflicting color schemes. Even when the system is as clean as this. Good job but maybe next time go with Red maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> :


Ermmmmmm...No...... colour coordinating's for girls...


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,thats that build over with.....
> Cosmos II is on its way apparently for the next one.


Love it!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> What's with the green LEDs ?
> I've really liked that rig since the first pics you posted here. But green ? I really don't think it does any good. Colored LEDs always ruin good looking rigs. Was that the customer's request or did you chose to put those in ?
> I'm sorry for being so insensitive but I really believe it looked way better without the Green LEDs.


Customers request.....


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Customers request.....


Too bad... I can't understand why people like colorful lighting. Why go through all the hastle picking parts and following a color theme if it's to hide it all with colorful lighting...

White LEDs I haven't seen yet but they would probably make sense. They wouldn't ruin the color of every single thing inside the case, they'd make them more visible which is what light is all about in the first place (right ?).


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> What's with the green LEDs ?
> I've really liked that rig since the first pics you posted here. But green ? I really don't think it does any good. Colored LEDs always ruin good looking rigs. Was that the customer's request or did you chose to put those in ?
> I'm sorry for being so insensitive but I really believe it looked way better without the Green LEDs.


I agree that green kills it. And I don't mean "KILLS IT" in a good way. It was great and now it looks.......just ............... eh just green. Can't see the beauty of the build for what it is.

I guess if that's what the customer wants that's what they want though.


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Customers request.....


It makes me want to give the pipes a try....


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> hey guys... i will be getting multiple 7970s for my next build (2-4, idk what for sure yet), and i need some advice on the setup... i am currently trying to decide between ASUS DC II 7970s and reference design 7970s. My entire system will be tubeless using straight acrylic tubing and appropriate fittings (similar to what kier does)...i will also be running dual loops with 2 different collor coolants (loop 1: CPU, RAM, Mobo | loop 2: GPUs) and would like to be able to see the color of the coolant between the GPUs... what does you guys think? (i put benefits and downfalls of both GPUs bellow)
> 
> Requirements:
> 
> These cards wil be watercooled and I will not use any nickel played blocks (and prefer copper blocks)
> I am currently using 3 monitors and would like the option to expand to 3x 1440 monitors (on the off chance I do)
> block must go well with the rest of my system (ram, CPU and xpower ii blocks by XSPC)
> ASUS 7970s:
> My concern with these is the connection of the blocks. The rest of my system will be tubeless using crystal links and fittings, so I am concerned about how neat these blocks will look while connected with crystal links (since the EK 7970 DC II blocks only have threads for connectors on one side of the block). The benefit is that it has outputs that actually make sense (mainly the 4x display ports). My thought of how to connect them was to use 90 degrees fittings off of the blocks into "T" connectors and parallel them with crystal thinks from there. the problem is, im not sure sure this will look as nice as i would like (if anyone has a pic of what im describing, that would be great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Reference 7970s:
> The blocks on these I have a lot more variety to choose from and can definitely connect them nicely. The down side is that they have the ******ed outputs.
> What do you guys think I should go with? I'm worked about the looks of the DC IIs while paralleled with crystal links, and the conectivity of the reference cards on the off chance I go with 3x 1440 monitors
> NOTE: if you can think of any other 7970s, please recommend away, but they must meet the requirements posted above


Have you thought about the Lightnings? I believe EK makes blocks for those as well. Otherwise I say just go reference.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Too bad... I can't understand why people like colorful lighting. Why go through all the hastle picking parts and following a color theme if it's to hide it all with colorful lighting...
> White LEDs I haven't seen yet but they would probably make sense. They wouldn't ruin the color of every single thing inside the case, they'd make them more visible which is what light is all about in the first place (right ?).


I have white LEDs in my rig now! But I'm at work, so no pictures, but it does give it a whole different feel!

@B Neg - Awesome work!


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Too bad... I can't understand why people like colorful lighting. Why go through all the hastle picking parts and following a color theme if it's to hide it all with colorful lighting...
> White LEDs I haven't seen yet but they would probably make sense. They wouldn't ruin the color of every single thing inside the case, they'd make them more visible which is what light is all about in the first place (right ?).


The HUE can do it all, which I why I picked that one. On a plus side my 2 year old son really likes to say yellow.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I quite like the green,gives a night vision look.....


----------



## Rickles

Regardless, if the kid doesn't like them switching LEDs is super simple.. great build and lucky kid.


----------



## kyismaster

Do you guys think this is a little overkill for water filter for my kit?

Stage 1: Distill
Stage 2: Reverse Osmosis
Stage3+4: RO & DI filtration lol.










http://www.marinedepot.com/SpectraPure_MaxCap_RO_DI_System_w_Manual_Flush_180_GPD_90_to_180_Gallons_Per_Day_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-SpectraPure-SP12219-FIRORDNH-vi.html

I already own one of these though.

the result is 0 particles per inch of water lol.

basically pure water lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Do you guys think this is a little overkill for water filter for my kit?
> Stage 1: Distill
> Stage 2: Reverse Osmosis
> Stage3+4: RO & DI filtration lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.marinedepot.com/SpectraPure_MaxCap_RO_DI_System_w_Manual_Flush_180_GPD_90_to_180_Gallons_Per_Day_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-SpectraPure-SP12219-FIRORDNH-vi.html
> I already own one of these though.


Its what Mayhems uses,he filters tap water for his ultra pure with that sort of kit,although his is home made.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its what Mayhems uses,he filters tap water for his ultra pure with that sort of kit,although his is home made.


Oh, I just use a commercial one, (( salt water aquarium purposes ))

Its an expensive investment but it beats going to walmart everytime I want distilled water,

plus this gives pure water with 000 impurities in my model lols.

does it benefit the rig in anyway? lol


----------



## steelkevin

1. Would using one of my rads without its fans cause any trouble ?

I've been testing how useless my 4 Noctua P14 fans are on my bottom rad running Prime95 for hours with them on lowest speed (fan controller's lowest speed at which they don't boot btw, I run all my fans at their lowest possible speed) and now with them unplugged with an ambient of 23.4°.

Max temps with them:
- 53° 52° 52° 54°
Max temps with them unplugged:
- 56° 55° 55° 57°

I'm about to unplug the 2 Yates that cool my top rad which will leave the loop fanless and see how hot my CPU gets. There's no real point in doing any of this but I just felt like it









(Ordered Four 140mm Apache Black fans as replacement).

*Edit:*
"Max temps" with absolutely no rad fans spinning:
- 62° 63° 62° 65°

I actually heard a weird noise coming from my PC and went to check, still don't know what it was but most of the case chasis was hot, it smelt like and felt like an oven inside and outside of the case. So I figured I'd plug the fans back in instead of messing around. I'm not sure but I think that without any air flow over the rads the water and rads would've kept getting hotter and hotter and the CPU would've reached crazy temps. Or maybe it would've stabilized at a certain point. I don't know and I think I won't try to know ^^
*/Edit*

2. I've recently discovered that sealed fans on to rads (meaning there's absolutely no gap between the fan and the rad from which air could escape) equaled to better performance (also found out about Phobya's "radiator sealing strip" which I'll add to my next order @aquatuning). What I don't understand then is why rads aren't all designed like the XSPC AX series (metal bars between each fan leaving no gap).


----------



## Michalius

I've thought about putting shrouds on either side of my Monsta just to see how ridiculous I could make it look.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I've thought about putting shrouds on either side of my Monsta just to see how ridiculous I could make it look.


Looks like we had the same idea with the white theme, nice work!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue dye with a RoG theme...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I so hate conflicting color schemes. Even when the system is as clean as this. Good job but maybe next time go with Red maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> :
> 
> 
> 
> Ermmmmmm...No...... colour coordinating's for girls...
Click to expand...

Having said that you might have to go into hiding. Just make sure not to hide in the spider hole that Saddam Hussein was found in. OCN is lots more thorough than the US Military was in looking for him an bin Laden. No offense meant toward those fine chaps but we take our modding skill seriously here.









~Ceadder


----------



## Plutonium10

Just a question regarding fan controllers. Is there any real difference between Lamptron FC5V2 and FC6 apart from watts per channel and the lack of voltage display on the FC6? I'm leaning towards the FC5V2 right now because they're more or less the same price. Will be running 3 rad fans on the first channel if I can find a 3-way splitter.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Too bad... I can't understand why people like colorful lighting. Why go through all the hastle picking parts and following a color theme if it's to hide it all with colorful lighting...
> White LEDs I haven't seen yet but they would probably make sense. They wouldn't ruin the color of every single thing inside the case, they'd make them more visible which is what light is all about in the first place (right ?).


White LEDs are nice, just check my sig, see what you think.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> White LEDs are nice, just check my sig, see what you think.


Is the Switch'es window blue tinted or did you camera/phone make it look blue-ish ?
While your rig is really clean and nice looking (I hate the frosted/foggy CSQ but I like your rig anyway) there are shadows and the light (at least on the photos) look bright while not lighting that much up. I'd Vote for your rig but that'd mean having to register









Btw, has anybody ever modded or removed motherboard lights ? My current POS motherboard only has an orange LED that doesn't bother me right now but I'm sure it will whenever I make myself a window.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Is the Switch'es window blue tinted or did you camera/phone make it look blue-ish ?
> While your rig is really clean and nice looking (I hate the frosted/foggy CSQ but I like your rig anyway) there are shadows and the light (at least on the photos) look bright while not lighting that much up. I'd Vote for your rig but that'd mean having to register
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, has anybody ever modded or removed motherboard lights ? My current POS motherboard only has an orange LED that doesn't bother me right now but I'm sure it will whenever I make myself a window.


It's a combo of the white LEDs and a little help from adobe lightroom.


----------



## Rickles

@ Steelkevin White LEDs no flash

Also think its time to make a single piece psu and bottom rad cover.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Is the Switch'es window blue tinted or did you camera/phone make it look blue-ish ?
> While your rig is really clean and nice looking (I hate the frosted/foggy CSQ but I like your rig anyway) there are shadows and the light (at least on the photos) look bright while not lighting that much up. I'd Vote for your rig but that'd mean having to register
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, has anybody ever modded or removed motherboard lights ? My current POS motherboard only has an orange LED that doesn't bother me right now but I'm sure it will whenever I make myself a window.




Here's an actual pic of it without any tinting from lightroom, YMMV but I like it a little on the blue side.


----------



## Michalius

This CooledPC business is driving me nuts. It's apparently just a popularity contest and has nothing to do with the actual quality of the build.

There's a build in the Open CSQ category with 78 votes that doesn't even have the power cords plugged in. Not kidding.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an actual pic of it without any tinting from lightroom, YMMV but I like it a little on the blue side.


I just noticed that you may have your CPU block set up incorrectly. Unless your loop goes from the GPUs->Top Rad->CPU. Otherwise, the inlet is the one above the jet plate, and it's fairly important for that block.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,thats that build over with.....
> 
> Cosmos II is on its way apparently for the next one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I quite like the green,gives a night vision look.....


Unbelievable, great job. Another fantastic build!






















Rep+
I quite like the green glow. It does give a night vision effect, quite unique. I think it blends in well with that Corsair Vengeance ammo box, er, case
And now a Cosmos II build to come! Looking forward to seeing that.


----------



## Willhemmens

Checked CooledPC a few weeks ago. Looked stupid as people voting clearly have no idea what they're looking at. I mean an i3 and a GTX285 is in top spot, there is even photos of different PCs and the photos are super low res.









Don't get me wrong there is certainly some nice systems, but look at that Haf in 6th place, it's disgusting.


----------



## Michalius

Yeah. Pretty much.

I wonder how EK feels about having gross builds being in the top? There's maybe 5 builds in the Open CSQ that would be worthy of actually showcasing their products with some craftmanship. Most of them are just people who put some blocks into their cases. Some don't even have full loops!


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> 
> Here's an actual pic of it without any tinting from lightroom, YMMV but I like it a little on the blue side.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> 
> @ Steelkevin White LEDs no flash
> Also think its time to make a single piece psu and bottom rad cover.


Thank you both







.
Looks like whenever I'll get to the point where I've got to deal with lighting it'll be really hard to avoid shadows







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> This CooledPC business is driving me nuts. It's apparently just a popularity contest and has nothing to do with the actual quality of the build.
> There's a build in the Open CSQ category with 78 votes that doesn't even have the power cords plugged in. Not kidding.
> I just noticed that you may have your CPU block set up incorrectly. Unless your loop goes from the GPUs->Top Rad->CPU. Otherwise, the inlet is the one above the jet plate, and it's fairly important for that block.


Anything where votes make you win stuff it's all about either spamming all over the place, knowing a lot of people who can vote for you or spending hours creating accounts with junk email adresses and voting for yourself (which could be worth it if you've really got nothing else to do and are a sad lonely ****) or even better, developing something to do all that for you.

As for his loop. It looks normal to me. Clockwise flow (if you look at it from the left side, obviously not if from the right). There's no rule about making your loop clockwise facing the mobo (left side in normal cases, right side in rATXes) but I feels right and I don't think I've seen many anti clockwise ones.


----------



## Michalius

No no, I meant that with the Supremacy block, the inlet needs to be over the jet plate. I didn't come out and say 'you're doing it wrong', but it's fairly uncommon for folks to have the video cards before the CPU.

Also, for your previous request, here's mine with just white LEDs. I don't believe I had any backlighting in this pic, just super slow shutter speed.


----------



## nyk20z3

Waiting for my DSLR to arrive but here are 2 okay shots before i gut the tube res,pump out and make a few changes -


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> No no, I meant that with the Supremacy block, the inlet needs to be over the jet plate. I didn't come out and say 'you're doing it wrong', but it's fairly uncommon for folks to have the video cards before the CPU.
> Also, for your previous request, here's mine with just white LEDs. I don't believe I had any backlighting in this pic, just super slow shutter speed.


That frosted acrylic Supremacy block is REALLY starting to grow on me. Did EK ever make a similar one for the Supreme HF?


----------



## Willhemmens

No and I still think it'd look way nicer without the frosting.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> No and I still think it'd look way nicer without the frosting.


Without lighting, maybe. With the lighting, definitely not. Gives it a bit more of a subdued look that is really pleasant.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> No no, I meant that with the Supremacy block, the inlet needs to be over the jet plate. I didn't come out and say 'you're doing it wrong', but it's fairly uncommon for folks to have the video cards before the CPU.
> Also, for your previous request, here's mine with just white LEDs. I don't believe I had any backlighting in this pic, just super slow shutter speed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know what you meant. I was just saying that for some reason clockwise flow seems logical to me. And I think you're wrong about people going most often through the CPU before the GPU. That would only make sense if your pump was in a bay res. Usually pumps are near the bottom of the rig, sometimes even attached under a reservoir. And often the top of the reservoir is used as inlet. So unless most people have a really messy loop due to insane tube routing just to get the water through the CPU first. It'd make more sense to go through the GPU(s) first (unless having a Bay Reservoir and pump combo) or having the pump above GPU level.

I could be wrong but that's what I see (I've only skipped the oldest pages of this thread, loops were ugly back then) and what I think makes sense.

Thanks for the White LED picture







. Have you put LEDs behind the mobo tray ? there's light coming out.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Yeah. Pretty much.
> I wonder how EK feels about having gross builds being in the top? There's maybe 5 builds in the Open CSQ that would be worthy of actually showcasing their products with some craftmanship. Most of them are just people who put some blocks into their cases. Some don't even have full loops!


Well I hope you consider mine worthy lol.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I know what you meant. I was just saying that for some reason clockwise flow seems logical to me. And I think you're wrong about people going most often through the CPU before the GPU. That would only make sense if your pump was in a bay res. Usually pumps are near the bottom of the rig, sometimes even attached under a reservoir. And often the top of the reservoir is used as inlet. So unless most people have a really messy loop due to insane tube routing just to get the water through the CPU first. It'd make more sense to go through the GPU(s) first (unless having a Bay Reservoir and pump combo) or having the pump above GPU level.
> I could be wrong but that's what I see (I've only skipped the oldest pages of this thread, loops were ugly back then) and what I think makes sense.
> Thanks for the White LED picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Have you put LEDs behind the mobo tray ? there's light coming out.


You could be right about the loop order.

But yeah, I put the LEDs behind the mobo tray. It diffuses it a bit to help showcase the lighting in the acrylic blocks, while still providing enough ambient to see everything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Well I hope you consider mine worthy lol.


Most definitely, counted yours in the top 5. Before you and the 800D guy joined, I would have said 3.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I know what you meant. I was just saying that for some reason clockwise flow seems logical to me. And I think you're wrong about people going most often through the CPU before the GPU. That would only make sense if your pump was in a bay res. Usually pumps are near the bottom of the rig, sometimes even attached under a reservoir. And often the top of the reservoir is used as inlet. So unless most people have a really messy loop due to insane tube routing just to get the water through the CPU first. It'd make more sense to go through the GPU(s) first (unless having a Bay Reservoir and pump combo) or having the pump above GPU level.
> I could be wrong but that's what I see (I've only skipped the oldest pages of this thread, loops were ugly back then) and what I think makes sense.
> Thanks for the White LED picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Have you put LEDs behind the mobo tray ? there's light coming out.


For the record my flow goes bay res 240 gpus 360 cpu back to pump.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That frosted acrylic Supremacy block is REALLY starting to grow on me. Did EK ever make a similar one for the Supreme HF?


I hated it to start and then suddenly somehow found it pretty good looking. But that only lasted a couple days, after seeing many of them I remember why I hated it so much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> No and I still think it'd look way nicer without the frosting.


Amen to that.
The only thing holding me back getting a 7870 and water cooling it is the fact EK stopped making good looking blocks and replaced them by this frost rubbish. Tiborr mentioned they'd been working on something for the CSQ hater crowd but that it took time to come up with a final product. He however didn't say anything about going back to Clear Acrylic blocks instead of the frosty ones. I still don't understand that choice, they were the only to make good clear blocks and they just threw that away.

Hopefully they'll have something good next year or at least for the next generation cards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> For the record my flow goes bay res 240 gpus 360 cpu back to pump.


That's what I thought


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Checked CooledPC a few weeks ago. Looked stupid as people voting clearly have no idea what they're looking at. I mean an i3 and a GTX285 is in top spot, there is even photos of different PCs and the photos are super low res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong there is certainly some nice systems, but look at that Haf in 6th place, it's disgusting.


Dont get me started about that comp......I was going to put Milspec in but seeing as my SR 2 got like 20 votes,i dont think i will bother.

Proof that spamming facebook is indeed for the win.


----------



## Bastyn99

Just had my first accident with water cooling. My computer suddenly started running really slow out of nowhere. I went into the BIOS to check things out and saw that my CPU temp was 88c. And just as I had spotted that, I heard like a sizzling sound from my computer. I quickly shut off the power and went to have a look inside. Seems the studs or tubing around the CPU heatsink was leaking a tiny bit. Fortunately, because I noticed so fast, only a few drops came out, so nothing appears to have taken damage. But, I have to use the stock cooler now :/


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont get me started about that comp......I was going to put Milspec in but seeing as my SR 2 got like 20 votes,i dont think i will bother.
> Proof that spamming facebook is indeed for the win.


Funny thing about that competition, quoted from their terms of use page:
The main prizes will be set depending of total ranking of the contestant. Total ranking of each contestant will be sum of the points gathered through 3 different independent parts:

40 % - Votes on CooledPC webpage (Each configuration will be calculated to maximum of 40 points with formula: Gathered point of Configuration / Maximum gathered points of one configuration × 40)

30 % - World known case Modder (Each build will be evaluated by three different criteria: photo quality up to 5 points, uniqueness up to 10 points and personal preference up to 15 points by the Case Modder. Maximum gathered points are 30.)

30 % - Well established Reviewer from the well-known Hardware news webpage - www.pureoverclock.com (Each build will be evaluated by three different criteria: photo quality up to 5 points, uniqueness up to 10 points and personal preference up to 15 points by the Reviewer. Maximum gathered points are 30.)

In my situation, I have 44 votes atm, top in my category has over 300. That means I get 5.17 points from spamming/facebook friends. Technically, you could have the top spot in votes and still not get first prize. The other 60 points will be determined by a 'modder' and a 'reviewer' from pureoverclock, hopefully they like white


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont get me started about that comp......I was going to put Milspec in but seeing as my SR 2 got like 20 votes,i dont think i will bother.
> Proof that spamming facebook is indeed for the win.


TBH it's just EK trying to sell the CSQ blocks, it's marketing. I wouldn't bother.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*
> 
> Just had my first accident with water cooling. My computer suddenly started running really slow out of nowhere. I went into the BIOS to check things out and saw that my CPU temp was 88c. And just as I had spotted that, I heard like a sizzling sound from my computer. I quickly shut off the power and went to have a look inside. Seems the studs or tubing around the CPU heatsink was leaking a tiny bit. Fortunately, because I noticed so fast, only a few drops came out, so nothing appears to have taken damage. But, I have to use the stock cooler now :/


Are you using Barbs of Comps?


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Yes!
> I got sponsored by Performance-PC's, then shortly after by Monsoon, Danger Den and NZXT, and a while later, after PPCS responsored me, I diffused a bad situation relating to them here on OCN, and made an offer to Hank! So my sponsorships got me the job!


May I ask, what do you need to do to get a sponsorship from these companies? I live in Europe so that might be a bit complicated. I am just interested to see what requirements must be met (if any).


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> May I ask, what do you need to do to get a sponsorship from these companies? I live in Europe so that might be a bit complicated. I am just interested to see what requirements must be met (if any).


search the thread, good post a few pages back.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> You could be right about the loop order.
> But yeah, I put the LEDs behind the mobo tray. It diffuses it a bit to help showcase the lighting in the acrylic blocks, while still providing enough ambient to see everything.
> Most definitely, counted yours in the top 5. Before you and the 800D guy joined, I would have said 3.


I voted for you btw. Did you know that you can vote for as many of the rigs there as you want? Weird competition.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I put it up,vote if you can be bothered.

http://www.cooledpc.com/posts/view/258


----------



## hollywood406

Sweet-looking pump. I sure wouldn't mind showing that off in my rig.


----------



## Nornam

It's got my Vote Neg.....

Although I did leave a little note about, It might have been better with one of those nice little DC-LT Pumps with Top & Res roaring away in there







......

On a serious note though Mate, All the best with your Build... It's another Fantastic Job done... Nice one Bud









N.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Checked CooledPC a few weeks ago. Looked stupid as people voting clearly have no idea what they're looking at. I mean an i3 and a GTX285 is in top spot, there is even photos of different PCs and the photos are super low res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong there is certainly some nice systems, but look at that Haf in 6th place, it's disgusting.


Totally Agree.!!. That Contest is BS.. my


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Are you using Barbs of Comps?


barbs and of course with no clamps. I know its not the safest, but oh well...


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Totally Agree.!!. That Contest is BS.. my


I actually like the the i3 system that is on top of the list. I mean it isn't "top-end" hardware-wise but it sure looks good.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I put it up,vote if you can be bothered.
> http://www.cooledpc.com/posts/view/258


Minus whale vote.

Also saw this rig today. Just SICK. He needs some better photographs taken though.

http://www.cooledpc.com/build/257


----------



## teamrushpntball

Went through and voted for everyone's rigs I recognized. Will agree that the voting is a little sketchy. Both my TJ07 and Michalus' Switch went up within a day of each other and mine is beating his in votes. Something is wrong with that, mine isn't even finished. I just wanted to get it up and hope to get lucky in a random giveaway.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Minus whale vote.
> Also saw this rig today. Just SICK. He needs some better photographs taken though.
> http://www.cooledpc.com/build/257












That rig has some lovely touches on it,it deserves more than 40 votes.....shows what a crock it really is


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Minus whale vote.
> Also saw this rig today. Just SICK. He needs some better photographs taken though.
> http://www.cooledpc.com/build/257


Holy cow, that setup looks amazing. I love the vein-like tubes. That's insane.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That rig has some lovely touches on it,it deserves more than 40 votes.....shows what a crock it really is


Agreed. That should be taking the Open CSQ category, no question.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I put it up,vote if you can be bothered.
> 
> http://www.cooledpc.com/posts/view/258


I submitted my vote.








Let's see some more support for this great build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I submitted my vote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see some more support for this great build.


Thanks!

If anyone does vote,leave a comment with your OCN tag please?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Do you guys think this is a little overkill for water filter for my kit?
> Stage 1: Distill
> Stage 2: Reverse Osmosis
> Stage3+4: RO & DI filtration lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.marinedepot.com/SpectraPure_MaxCap_RO_DI_System_w_Manual_Flush_180_GPD_90_to_180_Gallons_Per_Day_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-SpectraPure-SP12219-FIRORDNH-vi.html
> I already own one of these though.
> the result is 0 particles per inch of water lol.
> basically pure water lol.


i don't understand though..why would u continously need to
filter your water / coolant?
once it goes through the RO and DI systems once
you should have pretty pure water.(conductivity of 16 -18+)
what's the point in filtering pure water again and again
in a loop? plus you would have to replace the
sanitization tablets as well as the DI resens..
really really not worth it at all unless you have
a constant supply of water coming from the tap
which needs to be flltered then used after.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Voted for ya B!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Voted for ya B!


Thanks Majin!

Cosmos II coming thursday,just as i get rid of the small of cut plexi....it starts all over again...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Yeah. Pretty much.
> I wonder how EK feels about having gross builds being in the top? There's maybe 5 builds in the Open CSQ that would be worthy of actually showcasing their products with some craftmanship. Most of them are just people who put some blocks into their cases. Some don't even have full loops!


Some people really tried to make multiple facebook account just to give themselves some voting








also, can we really edit the rig? seems the error is still there

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Minus whale vote.
> Also saw this rig today. Just SICK. He needs some better photographs taken though.
> http://www.cooledpc.com/build/257


This is one hell of a rig, should be at the top imo


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks Majin!
> Cosmos II coming thursday,just as i get rid of the small of cut plexi....it starts all over again...


What kind of Tube is that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> What kind of Tube is that?


Chrome plated copper,same as the stuff I used on my SR2.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> What kind of Tube is that?


Copper piping at it's best. Not that of a nightmare to bend, best thing you can imagine regarding to flow/temp performance (since the pipe itself helps dissipating a bit of heat) AND no plasticizer issue.
No to mention the awesome look it gives to any rig.
I plan on moving on to copper piping soon.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Chrome played copper,same as the stuff I used on my SR2.


Is it better to use plastic tubes or the copper tubes. I mean in terms of maintenance, difficulty to install, and price.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Is it better to use plastic tubes or the copper tubes. I mean in terms of maintenance, difficulty to install, and price.


Costs no more than using bitspower for everything....
There is no maintainence required for the tube but its tricky to begin with,bending tube takes a bit of practice.
There is a bending guide in my sig if you want to try it?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I hated it to start and then suddenly somehow found it pretty good looking. But that only lasted a couple days, after seeing many of them I remember why I hated it so much.


If EK came out with an unfrosted acrylic mobo, CPU, and SLI bridge blocks for their Supremacy line, or came up with a Supreme HF SLI clear acrylic bridge, it would be enough for me to buy another GTX 590, go SLI, and/or change out all of my blocks... Silly, I know, but it would be another reason to upgrade.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I put it up,vote if you can be bothered.
> http://www.cooledpc.com/posts/view/258


That's not a machine... It's a space station.

Hands down, that is the cleanest machine I've ever seen.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> i don't understand though..why would u continously need to
> filter your water / coolant?
> once it goes through the RO and DI systems once
> you should have pretty pure water.(conductivity of 16 -18+)
> what's the point in filtering pure water again and again
> in a loop? plus you would have to replace the
> sanitization tablets as well as the DI resens..
> really really not worth it at all unless you have
> a constant supply of water coming from the tap
> which needs to be flltered then used after.


Noooo,

I get water from tap and convert it into pure water which I can later fill my reservoir with.

I was asking does it have any benefits over distilled?

also, the water is for my salt water fish, if RO/DI wasn't removed in that 3+4 stage filter, the fish would eventually die.

the pure water nuetralizes the artificial salt I have to use to make "salt water" that the fish could survive in.

technically its just seasalt... but its purified sea salt, made specifically for salt water, (( also used in many state aquarium exhibits. ))

These fish each are 200+ dollars each and are a PITA to take care of and a PITwallet to replace.

Since I already have this filter,

It saves me money from going down to walmart wasting my gas and poluting the planet with empty gallons everytime I gotta get a fill of distilled water lol.


----------



## Rognin

Hey guys, just a reminder, don't forget to vote for the MOTM!

Last chance!


----------



## wermad

Doesn't a R/O filter still leave some minerals in there? i have one for my drinking water filtration.

Buy a gallon of distilled at Walmart or your local pharmacy for less then a dollar







\

btw: what I've heard, you need a distiller to get purified water which is ideal for wc


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Doesn't a R/O filter still leave some minerals in there? i have one for my drinking water filtration.
> Buy a gallon of distilled at Walmart or your local pharmacy for less then a dollar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> \
> btw: what I've heard, you need a distiller to get purified water which is ideal for wc


yes, but thats what the first 3 stages are for


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> yes, but thats what the first 3 stages are for


You still need some minerals/elements for fish in an aquarium so imho, it won't work. Don't make it harder for your self and just buy a gallon of distilled. Its not like its a hard to find product. Just go early in the morning to WalMart to beat the senior citizens to get a gallon. $0.82, done and gone









Well, if you decide to get a distiller, make sure you experiment with some Moonshinning


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You still need some minerals/elements for fish in an aquarium so imho, it won't work. Don't make it harder for your self and just buy a gallon of distilled. Its not like its a hard to find product. Just go early in the morning to WalMart to beat the senior citizens to get a gallon. $0.82, done and gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, if you decide to get a distiller, make sure you experiment with some Moonshinning


Lol, Why do I need to get one, I already have one. Who keeps implying that im buying one just for this.

I've had one for years now.

dude for me thats like $3 in gas + the cost of water

the drive to the nearest place is 10 miles one way.

I can pump from home for less.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You still need some minerals/elements for fish in an aquarium so imho, it won't work. Don't make it harder for your self and just buy a gallon of distilled. Its not like its a hard to find product. Just go early in the morning to WalMart to beat the senior citizens to get a gallon. $0.82, done and gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, if you decide to get a distiller, make sure you experiment with some Moonshinning


hey wermad, did you happen to sell a st1500 on eBay? random question, but if you did its totally the one in my rig.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> hey wermad, did you happen to sell a st1500 on eBay? random question, but if you did its totally the one in my rig.


Sleeved and went kaput w/ quad 7970s???

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Lol, Why do I need to get one, I already have one. Who keeps implying that im buying one just for this.
> I've had one for years now.
> dude for me thats like $3 in gas + the cost of water
> the drive to the nearest place is 10 miles one way.
> I can pump from home for less.


Awesome! Now get to em moon-shinn'en


----------



## derickwm

Skulltrail









SR-2, note these are temp and just for reference really









Z9PE-D8


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Lol, Why do I need to get one, I already have one. Who keeps implying that im buying one just for this.
> I've had one for years now.
> dude for me thats like $3 in gas + the cost of water
> the drive to the nearest place is 10 miles one way.
> I can pump from home for less.


I have news for you - the carbon footprint for all of your gear is gonna far outweigh your gas useage to go get distilled water. btw, can't you buy SEVERAL gallons of DW at once ? cutting down on trips and gas useage ?


----------



## NostraD

@ kyismaster

They are so hating your water system in here! LMAO
Seems most never even read the original post...but hating it nevertheless!

/sigh
It kills me

Edit: could just be a very pro WalMart crowd...


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I put it up,vote if you can be bothered.
> http://www.cooledpc.com/posts/view/258


Got my vote!

Anyone else be sure to post links here and I'll try to help out.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I have news for you - the carbon footprint for all of your gear is gonna far outweigh your gas useage to go get distilled water. btw, can't you buy SEVERAL gallons of DW at once ? cutting down on trips and gas useage ?


and the carbon foot print to make all the plastic gallon bottles? lol what do I do with those? they don't really break down easily in a land fill, and we don't have recycling here.

What carbon footprint?
It takes the same amount of energy as turning on a faucet of water LOL.

I use 5 gallon jugs at home and just filter the tap. No electricity needed lol, I just let the water pressure work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> @ kyismaster
> They are so hating your water system in here! LMAO
> Seems most never even read the original post...but hating it nevertheless!
> /sigh
> It kills me
> Edit: could just be a very pro WalMart crowd...


I know -sigh-


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Skulltrail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SR-2, note these are temp and just for reference really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Z9PE-D8


Damn, that's quite the small extension collection!

Have you guys tried the new BP blood red colored fittings? They look pretty nice in person.

I just tore my rig apart today. I'm gonna plumb in another nova and remove the 240, and switch to 1 inch d-plugs. Oh and I'll de-dust the thing too while I'm at it.


----------



## derickwm

I got them from the DD fire sale for super cheap


----------



## Rickles

got a new dremel and some more acrylic... time to make some shrouds


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I got them from the DD fire sale for super cheap


I'm so sad I missed out on it...


----------



## hammerforged

Put my rig up on the CooledPC site as well if anyone wants to check it out:

http://www.cooledpc.com/posts/view/259

Terrible pictures I know







All I've got though


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sleeved and went kaput w/ quad 7970s???
> Awesome! Now get to em moon-shinn'en


Sure nuff, it even blew out traces on my old big bang marshal lol. I guess bitcoin mining was leaning on it too hard. Needless to say quads are way too impractical and are buggy as hell, so I made this white thing that I want you to vote for.


----------



## X79Extreme7UK

Hi, I d like to join;
This is my first serious computer build ever and first water cooling build;
A simple X79 Platform, nothing exotic;
ASRock X79Extreme7 Motherboard
i7 3820 CPU and all the other standard equipment, still adding new bits and pieces.

Wanted a big case but because of the big price tags, bolted 2 identical cases on top of one another. Motherboard sits at the top, and everything else (psu, hdds, dvd, reservoir, pump etc) at the bottom.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Put my rig up on the CooledPC site as well if anyone wants to check it out:
> http://www.cooledpc.com/posts/view/259
> Terrible pictures I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I've got though


Voted for you.


----------



## kyismaster

whats your thoughts on PrimoFlex Pro LRT ?


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> whats your thoughts on PrimoFlex Pro LRT ?


Most probably will have plasticizer problem.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Most probably will have plasticizer problem.


I ordered 6 ft.....


----------



## derickwm

Duralene...only way to go.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Duralene...only way to go.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_413 where?


----------



## socketus

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html for durelene

or http://www.petrastechshop.com/1id3odmagepu.html


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I ordered 6 ft.....


I thought you read my post on the system scrubber.
I guess you didn't realize I'm currently using that exact tubing that you bought.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Duralene...only way to go.


Gonna go for this next year


----------



## kyismaster

well bought some duralene....


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> well bought some duralene....


Good choice! Loving mine so far.


----------



## kyismaster

now im gonna have 6 feet of freaking primochill sitting around







and 6 feet of XSPC tubing









can't return it either, performance-pcs would charge me.









I think im starting to favor jab-tech


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> now im gonna have 6 feet of freaking primochill sitting around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and 6 feet of XSPC tubing


Ha I feel your pain. Got about half a package of Primochill left.

This is what happened to mine:


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Ha I feel your pain. Got about half a package of Primochill left.
> This is what happened to mine:


is that from heavy water? or is it just crap coating?


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> is that from heavy water? or is it just crap coating?


Definitely crap coating.


----------



## NostraD

Not the greatest picture in the world, but just wanted to say I love my Durelene! This is a little over a month old now...no issues










I'm so tired - didn't realize how blurry that pic came out...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Definitely crap coating.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Not the greatest picture in the world, but just wanted to say I love my Durelene! This is a little over a month old now...no issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so tired - didn't realize how blurry that pic came out...


guess i'll try to get a return on that promochill....


----------



## Agent_kenshin

I used the Durelene for my first WC build over 45 days ago. I checked it today because I thought I noticed some clouding when I was showing it off to a friend which thought it was the way the green lights was bouncing off the tubing. After I opened up the case to check the clarity by running a small strip of paper along the tubing, it is clear as the day that I installed it


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My loot from DD
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> 75% off ftw.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm still waiting for my order. So far, it can't be confirmed it will go through nor will it be cancelled. Gonna wait and be patient


Lucks B*stards lol! i was fortunate enough to be able to log on, but after i filled my basket, and clicked on shipping the -75% flew straight out of the window









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,thats that build over with.....
> Cosmos II is on its way apparently for the next one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Job mate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> What
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Do you guys think this is a little overkill for water filter for my kit?
> Stage 1: Distill
> Stage 2: Reverse Osmosis
> Stage3+4: RO & DI filtration lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.marinedepot.com/SpectraPure_MaxCap_RO_DI_System_w_Manual_Flush_180_GPD_90_to_180_Gallons_Per_Day_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-SpectraPure-SP12219-FIRORDNH-vi.html
> I already own one of these though.
> the result is 0 particles per inch of water lol.
> basically pure water lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, cant see any overkill here at all-in fact you are about 6 filters short lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> got a new dremel and some more acrylic... time to make some shrouds
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Please take some pictures (ie a mini work log) i amongst others would be interested to see your process in action, not to mention the finished product-good luck dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I ordered 6 ft.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This may help protect you from plasticizer
Click to expand...


----------



## coolmiester

just waiting on graphic cards for the white one...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> just waiting on graphic cards for the white one...


You love a Cosmos Coolmiester....you are not breeding them like you did the 840 are you?

Always good to see builds from the Modfather.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> just waiting on graphic cards for the white one...


You and me got the 2P bug all day


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You love a Cosmos Coolmiester....you are not breeding them like you did the 840 are you?
> Always good to see builds from the Modfather.


Sorry but Bill Owens was declared the Modfather yesterday.. Thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Sorry but Bill Owens was declared the Modfather yesterday.. Thanks.


Sorry,Coolmiester has been the Modfather for over 10 years....try again,thanks for playing


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry,Coolmiester has been the Modfather for over 10 years....try again,thanks for playing


SHow me the title somehwere .









link?







hahaha


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It says it right here...







Mod of the Year 2011 Bittech


----------



## coolmiester

2 CPU FTW


----------



## NewHighScore

But I don't see the title.... hahah

im just playin. That is just......









no disrespect towards coolmiester but I have never heard of him. Does he have a website or youtube channel?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> But I don't see the title.... hahah
> im just playin. That is just......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no disrespect towards coolmiester *but I have never heard of him*. Does he have a website or youtube channel?


lolwut?

He is a modding legend. Google him and prepare to be amazed.


----------



## NewHighScore

I mean I am a new kid on the block only been on the scene for a little over a year but still. Never heard the name and Bit Tech is the first mod community I came across. I'm just sayin....

Does he have a website or youtube channel?


----------



## teamrushpntball

So about to do a few things to my TJ07 and want your guys opinions. I currently have Mayhem's Namron Yellow Aurora fluid in and since I'm upgrading to a 480 radiator, EK Supremacy CSQ Acyrlic/Copper Block and different pump top I'm switching to a more permanent fluid.

My thoughts are either Mayhem's Sunset Yellow Pastel or Mayhem's Raspberry Purple Pastel. At the same time thinking of putting in either a White or UV light strip to illuminate the case. Then finally, I'm thinking of sleeving primarily black with a bit of yellow mixed in.

Black, yellow and purple will be sweet together I think, here's a picture of my rig at the moment:





Also, have a cold zero motherboard tray and a few other cold zero parts coming in. Anything remaining as silver aluminum I'm getting a local Motorcycle body shop to paint for me.

Edit: Also tossing the link to my rig on cooledpc.com, been voting for everyone's rigs I recognize.

Aurora - http://www.cooledpc.com/build/236


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I mean I am a new kid on the block only been on the scene for a little over a year but still. Never heard the name and Bit Tech is the first mod community I came across. I'm just sayin....
> Does he have a website or youtube channel?


Im not mocking you at all,dont take it like that mate.

http://www.youtube.com/user/CoolercasesUK


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not mocking you at all,dont take it like that mate.
> http://www.youtube.com/user/CoolercasesUK


Thanks bud that is what I am lookin for!









I gotta say one that came up quick in a google search was the mini Cosmos. AMAZING. I had an idea to chop down a case and make an itx version of it and this guy did it already! Prob with the most difficult case too!


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> But I don't see the title.... hahah
> im just playin. That is just......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no disrespect towards coolmiester but *I have never heard of him*. Does he have a website or youtube channel?


I haven't really either. Well I know he's Cooler Master's official modder but that's it. And the only reason I know that is because of a mixup between him and Mayhems I read about in the mayhems thread late at night (it was all deleted within no time, I might even be the only one to have read it there). Anyway, I don't want anybody answering to that or quoting that.

*ON TOPIC:*

1. Does anybody know of cheap ways to get 140mm Dust Filters ? Maybe how to make cheap homemade ones ?

2. Could you lot link me to the best guide you know of for side panel window modding ?

3. Does anybody know what kind of acrylic to purhcase to make a side panel window ? I doubt any of you know where to purchase some in France, HighFlow.nl have some but they're probably the most greedy known retailer. They want 40€ to ship to France, from Netherlands, no kidding. The fact US retailers try that is still outrageous but HighFlow really disappointed me there. Oh and don't tell me it's normal for US to ask that much for international shipping, Dwood charges $8 to ship to France.

*The three could be seen as off topic but they're not. The window would be to display my loop. And the Dust filters are to keep the rads clean.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It says it right here...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mod of the Year 2011 Bittech


Nice build. I like the crystal link that was used at the rear of the case to connect to the rads.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I haven't really either. Well I know he's Cooler Master's official modder but that's it. And the only reason I know that is because of a mixup between him and Mayhems I read about in the mayhems thread late at night (it was all deleted within no time, I might even be the only one to have read it there). Anyway, I don't want anybody answering to that or quoting that.
> *ON TOPIC:*
> 1. Does anybody know of cheap ways to get 140mm Dust Filters ? Maybe how to make cheap homemade ones ?
> 2. Could you lot link me to the best guide you know of for side panel window modding ?
> 3. Does anybody know what kind of acrylic to purhcase to make a side panel window ? I doubt any of you know where to purchase some in France, HighFlow.nl have some but they're probably the most greedy known retailer. They want 40€ to ship to France, from Netherlands, no kidding. The fact US retailers try that is still outrageous but HighFlow really disappointed me there. Oh and don't tell me it's normal for US to ask that much for international shipping, Dwood charges $8 to ship to France.
> *The three could be seen as off topic but they're not. The window would be to display my loop. And the Dust filters are to keep the rads clean.


3mm is the standard thickness used

What do you want to know about the window fitting? I have done a few now.......


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> *ON TOPIC:*
> 1. Does anybody know of cheap ways to get 140mm Dust Filters ? Maybe how to make cheap homemade ones ?
> 2. Could you lot link me to the best guide you know of for side panel window modding ?
> 3. Does anybody know what kind of acrylic to purhcase to make a side panel window ? I doubt any of you know where to purchase some in France, HighFlow.nl have some but they're probably the most greedy known retailer. They want 40€ to ship to France, from Netherlands, no kidding. The fact US retailers try that is still outrageous but HighFlow really disappointed me there. Oh and don't tell me it's normal for US to ask that much for international shipping, Dwood charges $8 to ship to France.
> *The three could be seen as off topic but they're not. The window would be to display my loop. And the Dust filters are to keep the rads clean.


I would just youtube search pc window mod and watch several videos so you can get several perspectives. That's what I always do when I look up new recipes on youtube.









Have you tried http://www.aquatuning.fr/ ? Not sure if they sell it there.


----------



## steelkevin

I forgot to ask something up there:

4. What purpose does an interior reservoir tube serve, if any ?
I only use my reservoir's bottom threads (it's only got bottom ones but I'd never use top ones even if it had any), have an interior tube but just put it in my cupboard with the other parts I don't use and I'm guessing it'd go on the inlet to somehow help with flow, head pressure or whatnot.Because without one of those (I think) both the inlet and outlet being at the same level doesn't cause any trouble but I'm thinking gravity would make having the inlet higher better.
Again, I've no clue what the real purpose is.

So, nobody knows anything about cheap homemade Dust Filters ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 3mm is the standard thickness used
> What do you want to know about the window fitting? I have done a few now.......


Well, pretty much everything. From How To cut out the panel, which tools to use, where to get stuff, do you have to use different tools depending on the metal you're cutting (I suppose not all side panels are made of the same metal). And the cost.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I would just youtube search pc window mod and watch several videos so you can get several perspectives. That's what I always do when I look up new recipes on youtube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried http://www.aquatuning.fr/ ? Not sure if they sell it there.


Most of the time they won't really talk about the tools they're using or why. Neither will they mention cost.

And aquatuning is my go to retailer so yes, I've checked


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I forgot to ask something up there:
> 4. What purpose does an interior reservoir tube serve, if any ?
> I only use my reservoir's bottom threads (it's only got bottom ones but I'd never use top ones even if it had any), have an interior tube but just put it in my cupboard with the other parts I don't use and I'm guessing it'd go on the inlet to somehow help with flow, head pressure or whatnot.Because without one of those (I think) both the inlet and outlet being at the same level doesn't cause any trouble but I'm thinking gravity would make having the inlet higher better.
> Again, I've no clue what the real purpose is.
> So, nobody knows anything about cheap homemade Dust Filters ?
> Well, pretty much everything. From How To cut out the panel, which tools to use, where to get stuff, do you have to use different tools depending on the metal you're cutting (I suppose not all side panels are made of the same metal). And the cost.
> Most of the time they won't really talk about the tools they're using or why. Neither will they mention cost.
> And aquatuning is my go to retailer so yes, I've checked


Start a thread,link it and i will post there.
Its not hard to do at all


----------



## NewHighScore

Here ya go. Bill Owens just so happens to have a video for this and he shows all necessary tools and whatnot. *COUGH COUGH*
The mod itself is pretty outdated as you can see it is from 2007 but the same rules apply still.












Your best bet is to search around for the best price at various local stores. I like to use shopbot.ca and look for a price match but I am sure there is something similar in France.

I am unsure exactly what your question about the reservoir is.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> 
> Nice build. I like the crystal link that was used at the rear of the case to connect to the rads.


That is tubing, not crystal links.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The tube is for helping bleeding and also allows you to use the top port as a return feed,if the end of the tube is below the fluid level.

Dont run it as a tube on the inlet to the pump,it causes restriction and raises the inlet level higher up the res,you dont want that as it gives you less safety margin in a fluid leak situation.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Start a thread,link it and i will post there.
> Its not hard to do at all


Here you go: http://www.overclock.net/t/1324663/making-a-side-panel-window
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Here ya go. Bill Owens just so happens to have a video for this and he shows all necessary tools and whatnot. *COUGH COUGH*
> The mod itself is pretty outdated as you can see it is from 2007 but the same rules apply still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your best bet is to search around for the best price at various local stores. I like to use shopbot.ca and look for a price match but I am sure there is something similar in France.
> I am unsure exactly what your question about the reservoir is.


Thanks for the video (I actually just realized I had that exact video hidden in my bookmarks from a while ago Oo), I'll check it out (again ? not sure I had the first time).

About the reservoir thing. These are what I'm talking about:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/multioption-res-x2/1.html
http://www.aquatuning.fr/product_info.php/info/p14113_Alphacool-riser-tube-1-4--pour-Coolplex-25-50-100mm.html

The second is probably exactly what I've got.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The tube is for helping bleeding and also allows you to use the top port as a return feed,if the end of the tube is below the fluid level.
> Dont run it as a tube on the inlet to the pump,it causes restriction and raises the inlet level higher up the res,you dont want that as it gives you less safety margin in a fluid leak situation.


Ok so risers (that's apparently what they're called) help for bleeding and allow the top to be used as inlet (which I'll never do***).
So in my case, adding it to the Reservoir's inlet (not the pumps) which is at the bottom right next to the outlet which feeds the pump, would be useless ?

***Here's what I'd answered someone regarding why I wouldn't use the top as inlet (I haven't took the time to read it, was a while back):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



The res has no thread up top. Otherwise that was the initial plan. I was going to get an EK Threaded top and have the rad that way.
But I figured having water come through the top of a cylinder reservoir was actually stupid so I wasn't going to spend money for something that would've been a nuisance more than anything else.
Let me explain myself, Having water come through the top of the reservoir would make it impossible to open it and fill it. That would make the first filling a real nuisance. Now add to that the fact the res would no longer be an "air trap", instead of the air going in the top of the res after bleeding it would go straight in the top rad thus making it nearly impossible to bleed if possible at all.

For those reasons, having a res set up that way is insane and I'd never do it.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> 1. Does anybody know of cheap ways to get 140mm Dust Filters ? Maybe how to make cheap homemade ones ?
> .


Call it ghetto, but I am using dryer sheets on top of my switch


----------



## Phelan

Kevin, I believe the threads at the top are for people that want to run the res sideways with one of the the bottom ports facing up







.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Call it ghetto, but I am using dryer sheets on top of my switch


*googles "dryer sheets"*







.
Ghetto's good enough for me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Kevin, I believe the threads at the top are for people that want to run the res sideways with one of the the bottom ports facing up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well that'd be the only case in which I'd actually use the top port. But many people (most people ?) use the reservoir in a normal position and go straight from a radiator to their top port. It looks way better (my loop would look ten times less messy if routed that way) but for the reasons I stated I won't do it. I'd rather change my 250mL reservoir for a smaller (not the tiny one) EK one to make things cleaner than do that.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Call it ghetto, but I am using dryer sheets on top of my switch


Hey it might help with static guard, always welcome in the electronic world!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Call it ghetto, but I am using dryer sheets on top of my switch


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> *googles "dryer sheets"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Ghetto's good enough for me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Hey it might help with static guard, always welcome in the electronic world!


And it will freshen up the smell in your room too!


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Call it ghetto, but I am using dryer sheets on top of my switch


And the best smelling computer award goes to....drum roll... Rickles.

Dryer Sheets, or your hardware store should carry bulk material to make screen doors. Get the finest mesh they have and it should work pretty well.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> That is tubing, not crystal links.


Any tips how to get the tubing that straight? my tubing stays bend-y shape in a straight flow since it's shipped as a circle like state
tried to blow dry or any minor heating up but still cant get it that straight


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Any tips how to get the tubing that straight? my tubing stays bend-y shape in a straight flow since it's shipped as a circle like state
> tried to blow dry or any minor heating up but still cant get it that straight


I seem to recall a member mentioning he boils his and them dips them in cold water afterwards to train them into position.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Any tips how to get the tubing that straight? my tubing stays bend-y shape in a straight flow since it's shipped as a circle like state
> tried to blow dry or any minor heating up but still cant get it that straight


Maybe it's hard Acrylic tubing ?

Crystal links are a rip off from what I've understood. K.3nny got 2meters of acrylic tube for 10€. A crystal link is over 5€.

Here's his worklog and where I found out about acrylic tubing.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1323562/c-bonized-dangerden-acrylictubes


----------



## NewHighScore

it looks like 7/16 on a 1/2 barb.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Here you go: http://www.overclock.net/t/1324663/making-a-side-panel-window
> Thanks for the video (I actually just realized I had that exact video hidden in my bookmarks from a while ago Oo), I'll check it out (again ? not sure I had the first time).
> About the reservoir thing. These are what I'm talking about:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/multioption-res-x2/1.html
> http://www.aquatuning.fr/product_info.php/info/p14113_Alphacool-riser-tube-1-4--pour-Coolplex-25-50-100mm.html
> The second is probably exactly what I've got.
> Ok so risers (that's apparently what they're called) help for bleeding and allow the top to be used as inlet (which I'll never do***).
> So in my case, adding it to the Reservoir's inlet (not the pumps) which is at the bottom right next to the outlet which feeds the pump, would be useless ?
> ***Here's what I'd answered someone regarding why I wouldn't use the top as inlet (I haven't took the time to read it, was a while back):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The res has no thread up top. Otherwise that was the initial plan. I was going to get an EK Threaded top and have the rad that way.
> But I figured having water come through the top of a cylinder reservoir was actually stupid so I wasn't going to spend money for something that would've been a nuisance more than anything else.
> Let me explain myself, Having water come through the top of the reservoir would make it impossible to open it and fill it. That would make the first filling a real nuisance. Now add to that the fact the res would no longer be an "air trap", instead of the air going in the top of the res after bleeding it would go straight in the top rad thus making it nearly impossible to bleed if possible at all.
> For those reasons, having a res set up that way is insane and I'd never do it.


No,its perfect on the inlet to the res,it jets the bubbles and air to the surface before the pump has a chance to grab them.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> it looks like 7/16 on a 1/2 barb.


My bad, I just can't stop thinking about the acrylic tube since I found out about it. Seems like the perfect solution.
I didn't even know what he was talking about but I figured since he thought it was crystal link sit had to be acrylic tube.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,its perfect on the inlet to the res,it jets the bubbles and air to the surface before the pump has a chance to grab them.


That makes sense. The person who'd pm'ed me didn't answer after that. So I had no idea if I was thinking right or not.
That's actually a relief. I really found my tube routing to look messy party because of no wanting to use the top inlet. I guess I could just use the port ride above the one going from the rad to reservoir top as fill port if I used the top inlet.
Yeah, I'll do that with my next reservoir.


----------



## JohnnyEars

I've had a bit of a re-arrange.. I found with the Koolance reservoir connected directly to the pump top (includung using the koolance anti cyclone), flow and pressure seemed low and the pump seemed to scavenge from the loop instead of the reservoir. So I changed back to my old Phobya Balancer 150 and all seems well again - I can see fluid moving in res, temps have improved by approx 2 - 3 degrees and pressure appears to be what it should.
...and as a bonus, the 2nd inlet on the pump made an ideal place to fit my drain









Before:


After:


----------



## MiiX

I could probably google or search the forum for this but;
I dont want the 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tube as i think its to thick. But can someone recommend some red tubing that can handle a little tight bending?


----------



## simonfredette

I like a 3/8 5/8 for that , not as huge as the 3/4 stuff but does very well in tight turns , I have it running behind my mobo on a switch 810 build and no kinks !


----------



## Rickles

TO be specific I use Bounce. I'll try to take a picture tonight, I want to put it in the ghetto rigged thread as well. As for tubing with tight bends just get some anti kink coils or man up like B Neg and use copper tube.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> So about to do a few things to my TJ07 and want your guys opinions. I currently have Mayhem's Namron Yellow Aurora fluid in and since I'm upgrading to a 480 radiator, EK Supremacy CSQ Acyrlic/Copper Block and different pump top I'm switching to a more permanent fluid.
> 
> My thoughts are either Mayhem's Sunset Yellow Pastel or Mayhem's Raspberry Purple Pastel. At the same time thinking of putting in either a White or UV light strip to illuminate the case. Then finally, I'm thinking of sleeving primarily black with a bit of yellow mixed in.
> 
> Black, yellow and purple will be sweet together I think, here's a picture of my rig at the moment:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, have a cold zero motherboard tray and a few other cold zero parts coming in. Anything remaining as silver aluminum I'm getting a local Motorcycle body shop to paint for me.
> 
> Edit: Also tossing the link to my rig on cooledpc.com, been voting for everyone's rigs I recognize.
> 
> Aurora - http://www.cooledpc.com/build/236


I like the black/yellow scheme so far, as far as the purple, that's up to you, I vote for the Sunset Yellow Pastel.
White led strips for the case lighting, the black/yellow sleeving sounds like a good plan.

I'm in the same boat with the ColdZero parts I bought, the remaining silver parts still need doing, that motorcycle body shop can likely do a great paint job on your parts. Sounds like a good option.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I could probably google or search the forum for this but;
> I dont want the 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tube as i think its to thick. But can someone recommend some red tubing that can handle a little tight bending?


1/2 5/8?

7/16?

you could go as low as 3/8 ID and still have no adverse effects... Go take a look at frozencpu to give you an idea. They have them well listed out for shopping.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks like it was made to fit a radiator IMO....about to finish this one up and call it a day.


More pics, and please post this in the CMSSC too









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I've had a bit of a re-arrange.. I found with the Koolance reservoir connected directly to the pump top (includung using the koolance anti cyclone), flow and pressure seemed low and the pump seemed to scavenge from the loop instead of the reservoir. So I changed back to my old Phobya Balancer 150 and all seems well again - I can see fluid moving in res, temps have improved by approx 2 - 3 degrees and pressure appears to be what it should.
> ...and as a bonus, the 2nd inlet on the pump made an ideal place to fit my drain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


Glad I read this, I was just about to pull the trigger on that setup. I was worried about this very problem, it just didn't look like a good design to me.


----------



## steelkevin

Quick question

I've got this elctrical clock (clock radio ?) with a temp sensor. I'd read somewhere that having a temp sensor between rad fins was roughly the same as having a water temp sensor. So I stuck it in there and started to run Prime95. Is it normal it's telling me after 25 minutes that the temperature is 29.5° (and slowly climbing as CPU temps do too) where as my ambient is 21° and the CPU's just under 50° ?
What's usually the water temp difference to the ambient and CPU load temp ?


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quick question
> I've got this elctrical clock (clock radio ?) with a temp sensor. I'd read somewhere that having a temp sensor between rad fins was roughly the same as having a water temp sensor. So I stuck it in there and started to run Prime95. Is it normal it's telling me after 25 minutes that the temperature is 29.5° (and slowly climbing as CPU temps do too) where as my ambient is 21° and the CPU's just under 50° ?
> What's usually the water temp difference to the ambient and CPU load temp ?


It's hard to get ambient water temps while under load (need a crap ton of rads). Most calculations for radiator heat dissipation is calculated with a 10c delta (or on a super loop 5 c delta). The higher the delta the more watts you can dissipate with the rad (with airflow of course).

So yeah, let it level out and if you have a decent loop you should see a 10c delta. Now if you're seeing over 15c delta and want better temps, then an extra rad in the loop might help.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> It's hard to get ambient water temps while under load (need a crap ton of rads). Most calculations for radiator heat dissipation is calculated with a 10c delta (or on a super loop 5 c delta). The higher the delta the more watts you can dissipate with the rad (with airflow of course).
> So yeah, let it level out and if you have a decent loop you should see a 10c delta. Now if you're seeing over 15c delta and want better temps, then an extra rad in the loop might help.


Actually, I thought it was odd that the water temperature wouldn't be closer to the CPU temps under load.
Ambient: 21.5°
Max temps so far: 50° 48° 49° 51°
"Water temp": 29.7°

Is the delta you're referring too "CPU minus Ambient", "CPU minus Water temp" or "Water temps minus ambient" ?

And I usually leave prime (Blend) for around 2 hours before considering temps Max temps. I noticed that after 2hours temps don't even climb. I went 15 hours once just to be sure they wouldn't climb anymore. So that's about an hour from now.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quick question
> I've got this elctrical clock (clock radio ?) with a temp sensor. I'd read somewhere that having a temp sensor between rad fins was roughly the same as having a water temp sensor. So I stuck it in there and started to run Prime95. Is it normal it's telling me after 25 minutes that the temperature is 29.5° (and slowly climbing as CPU temps do too) where as my ambient is 21° and the CPU's just under 50° ?
> What's usually the water temp difference to the ambient and CPU load temp ?


I believe it's normal. My cpu idles at 32*C, and my gpu at 35*C, whereas my water temp is 26*C.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Actually, I thought it was odd that the water temperature wouldn't be closer to the CPU temps under load.
> Ambient: 21.5°
> Max temps so far: 50° 48° 49° 51°
> "Water temp": 29.7°
> Is the delta you're referring too "CPU minus Ambient", "CPU minus Water temp" or "Water temps minus ambient" ?
> And I usually leave prime (Blend) for around 2 hours before considering temps Max temps. I noticed that after 2hours temps don't even climb. I went 15 hours once just to be sure they wouldn't climb anymore. So that's about an hour from now.


The delta (normally represented by a small triagle) is the diffrence between one temp and another. In this case water temp to amibient temps. You have a delta of 8.2c, which is right in the bullseye for a good loop.

You can'y get the heat away that fast from the cpu with waterblocks. The CPU will always be at a higher temp than the water, and I don't have a smart*** answer for that one though. Any engineers here?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> The delta (normally represented by a small triagle) is the diffrence between one temp and another. In this case water temp to amibient temps. You have a delta of 8.2c, which is right in the bullseye for a good loop.
> You can'y get the heat away that fast from the cpu with waterblocks. The CPU will always be at a higher temp than the water, and I don't have a smart*** answer for that one though. Any engineers here?


Haha I know what the Delta symbol is and it stands for ^^.
No, please don't, if their are any engineers, keep silent. Somebody was explaining (in french) why negative deltas were impossible. He went into really technical stuff and started talking about more than just heat dissipation and all. Gave me headache and I wouldn't be able to repeat anything he said.

Better be a good loop, two 280mm rads for the CPU alone xD.
I'd planned to have added a GPU by now but it looks like that's going to have to wait for proper acrylic blocs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Not the greatest picture in the world, but just wanted to say I love my Durelene! This is a little over a month old now...no issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so tired - didn't realize how blurry that pic came out...


Blurry or not that just looks secsy the way the reflection is radiantly diffused off the tubing. Of course I am nearing the age of Glasses so...







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It says it right here...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mod of the Year 2011 Bittech








































There is just too much Win to be had here. I'm not a fan of knobs blowing up a perfectly flat surface aesthetically speaking but OMG that's...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Call it ghetto, but I am using dryer sheets on top of my switch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the best smelling computer award goes to....drum roll... Rickles.
> 
> Dryer Sheets, or your hardware store should carry bulk material to make screen doors. Get the finest mesh they have and it should work pretty well.
Click to expand...

Meh I wouldn't go with hardware screen unless they have the same grade of screen that DEMCiFlex uses for their magnetic filters. At least you buy a DEMCiFilter and forget it except during the maintenance procedure. Medical grade screen FTW!!!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I could probably google or search the forum for this but;
> I dont want the 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tube as i think its to thick. But can someone recommend some red tubing that can handle a little tight bending?










Blasphemy!!!











Well got my new RAM installed but the only way for my system to POST at stock speed was to go into BIOS an change from Auto to D.O.C.P. an since I was in there fiddling around I enabled the step feature and bumped the CPU in the tuchus up to 3.84Ghz. Not much I know but it's all I can do for the moment until the system has had time to adjust and become comfotable with the new RAM.

I have to say that if you don't make sure that your fans and pump(s) are going at 100% things heat up rather quickly. My BIOS temp reported 78c within 3 minutes of use. Promptly reached over and gave everything the Gas. I was like







OMurGAWD!!! But it didn't take very long to respond to my kindness. If my TIM wasn't burned in yet it sure as hell is now.







lol

System temps at this clock are ~41c at 21c ambient Indoor temp Outdoor of 9c with no heat on in the whole house, 3/4 voltage to the pump 3/4 voltage to the fans while Folding. Can't wait to see what Clock I can get from this CPU and what kind of temps I get from that on a Manual Clock.









~Ceadder


----------



## steelkevin

Ok, it's been over two hours now.

Ambient: 22.8°
Water Temp: 31.0°
CPU: 51° 50° 51° 52°
Delta***: 8.2°

And that's with terrible airflow for the bottom rad added to totally inappropriate fans on the same rad. Everything @lowest speed possible, obviously.

***water temp - ambient temp


----------



## kyismaster

Lol i got rid of my 1/2 ID's for some 3/8 - 5/8 ID's and tubing.


----------



## wermad

small fixing and my pump is chugging along nicely! Added some spacers to reduce the threads on the bolts. Though the bolts were the correct size, I felt it was tightening the top too much on the impeller. There was no contact but with the pressure of the loop, it could have staled the impeller. Well, that's my theory and after having the pump stop one more time last night, I made the change and its working smooth since then. No more struggling to start; pulls the first time.

Got my first gpu in and maybe two more later today. Blocks arrive tomorrow so some water fun this weekend









edti: That CoolMeister







what a master piece that build of his of awesomeness wc pr0n









Quote:


>


----------



## NomNomNom

Been running my duralene for 2+ years straight now, starting to slightly cloud


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Been running my duralene for 2+ years straight now, starting to slightly cloud


I still like those odds.. I will take that any day.. Good to Know..







. I have a Coil of Durelene Just begging for some Mayhems.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I still like those odds.. I will take that any day.. Good to Know..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have a Coil of Durelene Just begging for some Mayhems.


how thick? those look so chubby


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> how thick? those look so chubby


1/2 x 3/4


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 1/2 x 3/4


any difference from 3/8 5/8?

shouldn't smaller tube = faster flow but less water movement, while larger = more water moved, while slower flow? lol


----------



## nyk20z3

1/2 by 3/4 ftw


----------



## Qu1ckset

what is that matte black tubing i see some of the all-in-one kits use, i think i might use that in my next build, looks kind of smexy!

**Edit**
its "Norprene" apparently, so how does this stuff compare to the normal tubing?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_415&products_id=25143


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> what is that matte black tubing i see some of the all-in-one kits use, i think i might use that in my next build, looks kind of smexy!


i think its tygon


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> 1/2 by 3/4 ftw


Water Coolers are like womens.

Most prefer big an fat to small an skinny.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> what is that matte black tubing i see some of the all-in-one kits use, i think i might use that in my next build, looks kind of smexy!


Tygon Norprene tubing. Have been running for a year now with glycol and have yet to see an iota of plastisizer. Doesn't bend that great though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> any difference from 3/8 5/8?
> shouldn't smaller tube = faster flow but less water movement, while larger = more water moved, while slower flow? lol


Best advantage is clearance. 1/2x3/4 compression are just a tad big and can easily have clearance issues. I know I did









3/8x5/8 gives you the same wall thickness as 1/2x3/4 and its not too big to clear things beautifully. And you still get the nice fluid bends that other sizes like 3/8x1/2 or 1/2x5/8 won't give you.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I still like those odds.. I will take that any day.. Good to Know..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have a Coil of Durelene Just begging for some Mayhems.


Yeah a had a giant coil somewhere then i lost it inside the house







, doing to have to order some more from sidewinders unless somebody sells the tubing in canada


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Best advantage is clearance. 1/2x3/4 compression are just a tad big and can easily have clearance issues. I know I did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3/8x5/8 gives you the same wall thickness as 1/2x3/4 and its not too big to clear things beautifully. And you still get the nice fluid bends that other sizes like 3/8x1/2 or 1/2x5/8 won't give you.


sounds like I got a little sweet spot for a first build lol.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Costs no more than using bitspower for everything....
> There is no maintainence required for the tube but its tricky to begin with,bending tube takes a bit of practice.
> There is a bending guide in my sig if you want to try it?


Thanks. Looks amazing.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> any difference from 3/8 5/8?
> shouldn't smaller tube = faster flow but less water movement, while larger = more water moved, while slower flow? lol


Won't really make any noticeable difference in temps. I went with 1/2 3/4 as well because 3/8 5/8 just looked too small to me...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Won't really make any noticeable difference in temps. I went with 1/2 3/4 as well because 3/8 5/8 just looked too small to me...


I would say I like it small but that just sounds wrong, its going in a ITX so maybe it won't look out of proportions lol


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I would say I like it small but that just sounds wrong, its going in a ITX so maybe it won't look out of proportions lol


In an ITX, yeah 3/4 would look wrong...


----------



## steelkevin

EDIT: delete this. I was on my phone and didn't post on purpose (watching tv).


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> 1/2 by 3/4 ftw


In larger Full Tower Builds I agree









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Water Coolers are like womens.
> Most prefer big an fat to small an skinny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder










~~









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> In an ITX, yeah 3/4 would look wrong...


This^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Best advantage is clearance. 1/2x3/4 compression are just a tad big and can easily have clearance issues. I know I did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3/8x5/8 gives you the same wall thickness as 1/2x3/4 and its not too big to clear things beautifully. And you still get the nice fluid bends that other sizes like 3/8x1/2 or 1/2x5/8 won't give you.


Well Said..


----------



## She loved E

so glad i used 3/8-5/8 on my build. its hard enough to work with... i can't even imagine using something bigger.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *She loved E*
> 
> so glad i used 3/8-5/8 on my build. its hard enough to work with... i can't even imagine using something bigger.


thats..... you know the rest.










i managed to get my ram to 2133 pretty nice, anyone know how to tighten ram timings?'

its 1T or 2T better? right now its 1T


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> thats..... you know the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i managed to get my ram to 2133 pretty nice, anyone know how to tighten ram timings?


i do on 775! lol... but anyways, why not pump that CPU higher? im sure you could hit 4.5 or so


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> i do on 775! lol... but anyways, why not pump that CPU higher? im sure you could hit 4.5 or so


im on stock untill my water comes in friday.









as i said before 1T or 2T ?

this samsung ram is great, i started at 1600mhz @ 11cas to 2133 @ 10cas at 1.5v


----------



## LuckyNumber13

and it grows..
got all my fittings i need for
my drain and fill ports today
plus my cpu 370 ( iwas already planning to have part of
the 370 powder coated...380 just wouldn't look as sleek.
plus performance wise it's just a smige above the 370..i'll live)

and here is all my fittings together..

going tomorrow or friday to buy stuff i need to build my
2 to 3 inch addition..finally... i've been putting it off but
i finally found the perfect stuff to use..
i will post pics on the weekend hopefully if my laziness doesn't take over


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> im on stock untill my water comes in friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as i said before 1T or 2T ?
> this samsung ram is great, i started at 1600mhz @ 11cas to 2133 @ 10cas at 1.5v


1T is better.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Just picked up two Bitspower Black Sparkle Mini-Valve for about 4$ each, i couldn't be any happier now.







And my first ever water cooling parts that have Bitspower written on them . :3


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I mean I am a new kid on the block only been on the scene for a little over a year but still. Never heard the name and Bit Tech is the first mod community I came across. I'm just sayin....
> Does he have a website or youtube channel?


Maybe you saw some of his work at bittech, then ? Try this

Bill Owen runs a bidness and keeps very busy not only modding customer gear, but produces gearage for sale. There can be more than one "modfather"


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Maybe you saw some of his work at bittech, then ? Try this
> Bill Owen runs a bidness and keeps very busy not only modding customer gear, but produces gearage for sale. There can be more than one "modfather"


he is awsome... reading his skill trail build right now for ideas since it seems i will be getting a skulltrail w/ full waterblocks and 2x dual PCB 295s with waterblocks in teh near future


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> thats..... you know the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i managed to get my ram to 2133 pretty nice, anyone know how to tighten ram timings?
> 
> 
> 
> i do on 775! lol... but anyways, why not pump that CPU higher? im sure you could hit 4.5 or so
Click to expand...

Go into your UEFI and you can set your timings. You should have a target value for each channel. Change each one, one at a time. Start with 3rd Channel so like my RAM is

9-9-9-24 1T

So I would go in and start at the 3rd channel and take it down one so it would be

9-9-8-24 1T

You can also take RAM back to 2T to allow for easier adjustment. It's not as optimal to do so but you're not going to leave it there. Essentially you want to find the sweet spot where your RAM will run the best and then you can set it back to 1T(if that's what it was) and if you crash you know you have to set one of the channels back starting at the 1st one. If you crash before middle channel is adjusted I would say it's 10:1 that you won't be able to fiddle with your timings other than broadening them and moving up instead of down.

RAM really isn't very forgiving anymore Dominators are still pretty flexible. My GSkill sticks not so much in my experience. But it's all tweakable in the BIOS/UEFI system.









Nowhere near as good a Clock as the above but not too shabby being pigeonholed for options atm...



~Ceadder


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*


How do you get your core voltage so low on that oc ? I get 1.344v at 4ghz oc on my 2600k on air.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go into your UEFI and you can set your timings. You should have a target value for each channel. Change each one, one at a time. Start with 3rd Channel so like my RAM is
> 9-9-9-24 1T
> So I would go in and start at the 3rd channel and take it down one so it would be
> 9-9-8-24 1T
> You can also take RAM back to 2T to allow for easier adjustment. It's not as optimal to do so but you're not going to leave it there. Essentially you want to find the sweet spot where your RAM will run the best and then you can set it back to 1T(if that's what it was) and if you crash you know you have to set one of the channels back starting at the 1st one. If you crash before middle channel is adjusted I would say it's 10:1 that you won't be able to fiddle with your timings other than broadening them and moving up instead of down.
> RAM really isn't very forgiving anymore Dominators are still pretty flexible. My GSkill sticks not so much in my experience. But it's all tweakable in the BIOS/UEFI system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nowhere near as good a Clock as the above but not too shabby being pigeonholed for options atm...
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks, for some reason it crashes at 9 9 9 24 autoT and 1.5v should i set it to auto v? and set 1T?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> How do you get your core voltage so low on that oc ? I get 1.344v at 4ghz oc on my 2600k on air.


Because im a boss.







dunno, just set it in my mobo's preset OC's


----------



## kyismaster

OH MY GOD.
I think i just broke a world record










*4000GHz FTW*


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^







Crazy clock yo!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go into your UEFI and you can set your timings. You should have a target value for each channel. Change each one, one at a time. Start with 3rd Channel so like my RAM is
> 9-9-9-24 1T
> So I would go in and start at the 3rd channel and take it down one so it would be
> 9-9-8-24 1T
> You can also take RAM back to 2T to allow for easier adjustment. It's not as optimal to do so but you're not going to leave it there. Essentially you want to find the sweet spot where your RAM will run the best and then you can set it back to 1T(if that's what it was) and if you crash you know you have to set one of the channels back starting at the 1st one. If you crash before middle channel is adjusted I would say it's 10:1 that you won't be able to fiddle with your timings other than broadening them and moving up instead of down.
> RAM really isn't very forgiving anymore Dominators are still pretty flexible. My GSkill sticks not so much in my experience. But it's all tweakable in the BIOS/UEFI system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nowhere near as good a Clock as the above but not too shabby being pigeonholed for options atm...
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, for some reason it crashes at 9 9 9 24 autoT and 1.5v should i set it to auto v? and set 1T?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> How do you get your core voltage so low on that oc ? I get 1.344v at 4ghz oc on my 2600k on air.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Because im a boss.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dunno, just set it in my mobo's preset OC's
Click to expand...

Try increasing your voltage or try auto and see what that does. Auto should get it near an optimal setting. My Doms at stock timings are 1.5v.









~Ceadder









~


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> OH MY GOD.
> I think i just broke a world record


fail OC... your CPU shouldnt need voltage


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> OH MY GOD.
> I think i just broke a world record
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *4000GHz FTW*


LULZ


----------



## kyismaster

they should hire me for HWBOT lol


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> they should hire me for HWBOT lol


why? thats not very impressive when your ambients are lower then LHe


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> why? thats not very impressive when your ambients are lower then LHe


LOL


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> How do you get your core voltage so low on that oc ? I get 1.344v at 4ghz oc on my 2600k on air.


I can hit 4.9 w/ 1.325v on my 2700k, on water and a massive air cooler


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

ok...so here is my dilemma

I need to upgrade graphics cards. Currently I have 2 6970s both underwater and both have been great, but I'm grabbing a catleap 1440p monitor next month and I don't think my cards will handle it like I want them to. So here are the options:

670 sli 4gb cards

7970 cf 3gb cards

Both are the same price and both will be going underwater. What do you guys think I should go for?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> ok...so here is my dilemma
> I need to upgrade graphics cards. Currently I have 2 6970s both underwater and both have been great, but I'm grabbing a catleap 1440p monitor next month and I don't think my cards will handle it like I want them to. So here are the options:
> 670 sli 4gb cards
> 7970 cf 3gb cards
> Both are the same price and both will be going underwater. What do you guys think I should go for?


7970s. Higher memory bus and better performers.


----------



## phillyd

I agree with Phelan


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> ok...so here is my dilemma
> I need to upgrade graphics cards. Currently I have 2 6970s both underwater and both have been great, but I'm grabbing a catleap 1440p monitor next month and I don't think my cards will handle it like I want them to. So here are the options:
> 670 sli 4gb cards
> 7970 cf 3gb cards
> Both are the same price and both will be going underwater. What do you guys think I should go for?


7970 all the way we call them the home wreckers of Boinc lol, 1 million PPD is just insane.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

So I guess I'll go with the 7970s then lol.

Any pref on brands? xfx, sapphire, msi, powercolor, diamond, etc?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> So I guess I'll go with the 7970s then lol.
> Any pref on brands? xfx, sapphire, msi, powercolor, diamond, etc?


MSI frozr or reference, gigabyte, or sapphire,

I usually stay away from XFX, powercolors and diamonds are decent, but I look at them as third party. while the above are the main party.

I like frozr because well, they look pretty for non reference.

Oh right

Asus AMD gpu's are ok too.

edit:

so MSI, Gigabyte, Sapphire, or Asus seems to be your best bet.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> MSI frozr or reference, gigabyte, or sapphire,
> I usually stay away from XFX, powercolors and diamonds are decent, but I look at them as third party. while the above are the main party.
> I like frozr because well, they look pretty for non reference.
> Oh right
> Asus AMD gpu's are ok too.
> edit:
> so MSI, Gigabyte, Sapphire, or Asus seems to be your best bet.


Well not too worried about looks, both will have waterblocks on them. How is HIS? they have to lowest price reference card atm.


----------



## eskamobob1

agree with what was said ^







... as for the brand, it depends if you want ref or not







... if you want the best ports posible, then go lightning or ASUS DC II... if you want ref, then i like sapphire and gigabyte as well (though i havent been a fan of gygabyte non-ref cards for a wile now)

EDIT: HIS are about on the same line as sapphire this gen, but they fluctuate from gen to gen


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Thanks for the info guys!


----------



## kyismaster

no problem, MSI/ Sapphire Reference cards seem to be the best quality from my experience.

My MSI runs max core clocks at 60c on reference stock.

though its kinda the loudest part of my case ~ 30-35db

on idle its dead silent lol

for some reason, my gpu likes to run max clocks at 30% fan speed which is ~ 20DB .... but it gets ~ 74c which I don't like, even if its safe.

The rear exhaust makes it worth while.


----------



## eskamobob1

np... just glad we could help


----------



## wermad

7970>670. Grab three 7970s and three 1440 monitors and call it a day


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 7970>670. Grab three 7970s and three 1440 monitors and call it a day


lol... im on my way there, i just dont haven enough room on my desk fro the monitors


----------



## Plutonium10

My Sapphire 7970 is still languishing somewhere in Taiwan for a coil whine RMA.







There's a nice shiny Heatkiller block waiting for it when it returns.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> My Sapphire 7970 is still languishing somewhere in Taiwan for a coil whine RMA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a nice shiny Heatkiller block waiting for it when it returns.


It's the gods punishment for giving into temptation and buying one


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> My Sapphire 7970 is still languishing somewhere in Taiwan for a coil whine RMA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a nice shiny Heatkiller block waiting for it when it returns.


You RMA'd for that? My 680 whines like a little girl when I fold with it. I just ignore it like parents these days.


----------



## wermad

Hmmm....I thought Canadians shipped their stuff to company's N. American site. I would think sapphire would have a site in Silicone Valley at least. Why the rma all the way to their manufacturing site


----------



## kyismaster

man... my ram really really doesn't like Cas 9 9 9 with 24, it does 28 no problem.

is 1.585v for ram bad? i mean its my auto, and its what was going when the ram was 1600mhz at 11 11 11 28 1t lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> man... my ram really really doesn't like Cas 9 9 9 with 24, it does 28 no problem.
> 
> is 1.585v for ram bad? i mean its my auto, and its what was going when the ram was 1600mhz at 11 11 11 28 1t lol


You can should be able to bump up to 1.65v if you wish to. My snipers ran 1.65v at stock. Try 9-10-9-24 and see what that does for you without tweaking the voltage.

~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can should be able to bump up to 1.65v if you wish to. My snipers ran 1.65v at stock. Try 9-10-9-24 and see what that does for you without tweaking the voltage.
> ~Ceadder












LOL it did not like anything with 9's on 2133

i got 1866 though


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmmm....I thought Canadians shipped their stuff to company's N. American site. I would think sapphire would have a site in Silicone Valley at least. Why the rma all the way to their manufacturing site


Your guess is as good as mine. I got the 7970 from NCIX and just after the 90-day return period was over, I installed AutoCAD which resulted in some mad coil whine. So I contacted NCIX about manufacturer warranty and they said that Sapphire likes RMAs to be done via the distributor. I shipped the card to NCIX and now it's in Taiwan.









I probably should have just lived with it but it was really annoying having the coil whine get quieter/louder or change pitch whenever I moved my mouse.


----------



## kyismaster

not bad for 1.4v i'd say.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> no problem, MSI/ Sapphire Reference cards seem to be the best quality from my experience.
> My MSI runs max core clocks at 60c on reference stock.
> though its kinda the loudest part of my case ~ 30-35db
> on idle its dead silent lol
> for some reason, my gpu likes to run max clocks at 30% fan speed which is ~ 20DB .... but it gets ~ 74c which I don't like, even if its safe.
> The rear exhaust makes it worth while.


When I was running quads on air I had temps in the high 80s with fan at 100%, just chunking away at Bitcoin mining. I owned a total of 6 7970s, all reference. Asus, diamond, sapphire, and 3 gigabyte cards. I cherry picked the best clockers out of the bunch to keep and they were both gigabytes. Not sure if they just had a good tray of procs or what but they hit 1200/1600 no problem, just a little voltage bump. The third gigabyte wouldn't get stable at anything above 985 mhz core, pretty sure it's just luck of the draw.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> When I was running quads on air I had temps in the high 80s with fan at 100%, just chunking away at Bitcoin mining. I owned a total of 6 7970s, all reference. Asus, diamond, sapphire, and 3 gigabyte cards. I cherry picked the best clockers out of the bunch to keep and they were both gigabytes. Not sure if they just had a good tray of procs or what but they hit 1200/1600 no problem, just a little voltage bump. The third gigabyte wouldn't get stable at anything above 985 mhz core, pretty sure it's just luck of the draw.


sounds like it.

water cooling is always a best bet.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> sounds like it.
> water cooling is always a best bet.


funny thing is they hit that speed on air. still won't go faster on water. now they're just silent... minus some whining/clicking from the chokes, which is now audible since the turbine banshees have been removed lol.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Swiftech today unveiled revision 2 of the MCRx20-QP radiator with integrated reservoir. First introduced in 2006, the MCR "Res" has long been a favorite of users seeking to eliminate the number of components in their space constrained build. Revision 2 of the series adds several essential functionalities that now make this product one of the most versatile offerings on the market.




Source


----------



## tsm106

Tore my rig down am starting the rebuild. Big loops are such a pain!


----------



## kyismaster

ugh,

Can a 650w power:

3 x hard drives
1 x SSD
1 x 6950
1 x 2600k
1 x 240mm water cooling loop ( xspc )
2 sticks of ram @ 1.4v

or do I need a 750w?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> ugh,
> 
> Can a 650w power:
> 
> 3 x hard drives
> 1 x SSD
> 1 x 6950
> 1 x 2600k
> 1 x 240mm water cooling loop ( xspc )
> 2 sticks of ram @ 1.4v
> 
> or do I need a 750w?


No problem. Currently my 550W powers:


2x SSD's
1x HDD
1x 7950 OC'd
1x Xeon X3480 OC'd
4x RAM
Misc fans


----------



## tsm106

6950 is only 200w so theres a ton of room to spare regardless of cpu type.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Anyone know of any reviews or comparisons of the Alphacool Monsta? Or is it just one of those things if it fits get it because it's a MONSTA!


----------



## Fuganater

Water cooling thread

OC =


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> No problem. Currently my 550W powers:
> 
> 2x SSD's
> 1x HDD
> 1x 7950 OC'd
> 1x Xeon X3480 OC'd
> 4x RAM
> Misc fans


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> 6950 is only 200w so theres a ton of room to spare regardless of cpu type.


if this is true, you guys just saved me a crapton of money lol.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Anyone know of any reviews or comparisons of the Alphacool Monsta? Or is it just one of those things if it fits get it because it's a MONSTA!


http://www.review-center.de/wasserkuehlung/343-das-grosse-120mm-radiator-roundup.html


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> No problem. Currently my 550W powers:
> 
> 2x SSD's
> 1x HDD
> 1x 7950 OC'd
> 1x Xeon X3480 OC'd
> 4x RAM
> Misc fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> 6950 is only 200w so theres a ton of room to spare regardless of cpu type.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> if this is true, you guys just saved me a crapton of money lol.
Click to expand...

I have a simple formula, 200 W per CPU, 200W per GPU, 150W for everything else.

Now by "everything else" I mean motherboard, a couple hard drives, few fans, a pump.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Thanks TSM, apparently I fail at google.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> No problem. Currently my 550W powers:
> 
> 2x SSD's
> 1x HDD
> 1x 7950 OC'd
> 1x Xeon X3480 OC'd
> 4x RAM
> Misc fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> 6950 is only 200w so theres a ton of room to spare regardless of cpu type.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> if this is true, you guys just saved me a crapton of money lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have a simple formula, 200 W per CPU, 200W per GPU, 150W for everything else.
> 
> Now by "everything else" I mean motherboard, a couple hard drives, few fans, a pump.
Click to expand...

Except 7970s are 300w maxed out.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Your guess is as good as mine. I got the 7970 from NCIX and just after the 90-day return period was over, I installed AutoCAD which resulted in some mad coil whine. So I contacted NCIX about manufacturer warranty and they said that Sapphire likes RMAs to be done via the distributor. I shipped the card to NCIX and now it's in Taiwan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I probably should have just lived with it but it was really annoying having the coil whine get quieter/louder or change pitch whenever I moved my mouse.*


I was just







lol

The only real reason mine doesn't bother me is because its running while I'm at work haha. Which brings up something I've been wanting to ask

I'm looking for some redundancy in my loop and I'm only running an XSPC X20 750. Should I opt for the dual D5 or go a completely different direction? I was kinda looking at a 655 but without being cramped, I dont think it would fit in my case.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I have a simple formula, 200 W per CPU, 200W per GPU, 150W for everything else.
> 
> Now by "everything else" I mean motherboard, a couple hard drives, few fans, a pump.


Sooo, I can run it even on a 550w?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> No problem. Currently my 550W powers:
> 
> 2x SSD's
> 1x HDD
> 1x 7950 OC'd
> 1x Xeon X3480 OC'd
> 4x RAM
> Misc fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> 6950 is only 200w so theres a ton of room to spare regardless of cpu type.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> if this is true, you guys just saved me a crapton of money lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have a simple formula, 200 W per CPU, 200W per GPU, 150W for everything else.
> 
> Now by "everything else" I mean motherboard, a couple hard drives, few fans, a pump.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Except 7970s are 300w maxed out.
Click to expand...

Well that's why the CPU and "everything else" numbers are so generous.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I have a simple formula, 200 W per CPU, 200W per GPU, 150W for everything else.
> 
> Now by "everything else" I mean motherboard, a couple hard drives, few fans, a pump.
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo, I can run it even on a 550w?
Click to expand...

Probably, but 650 W would be the safe bet. Most solid PSU's are 600+ W anyway.


----------



## kyismaster

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair---Air-Series-SP120-High-Performance-Edition-120mm-High-Static-Pressure-Fan/5429797.p?skuId=5429797&productCategoryId=abcat0507007&id=1218650481319 <- are these any good?

If so, I can get 2 free.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair---Air-Series-SP120-High-Performance-Edition-120mm-High-Static-Pressure-Fan/5429797.p?skuId=5429797&productCategoryId=abcat0507007&id=1218650481319 <- are these any good?
> 
> If so, I can get 2 free.


From what I remember they are as long as you're not sticking them on some super radiator with a super high FPI.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Keep on topic please,if you have questions regarding PSU's please form a thread on it in the appropriate forum.


----------



## steelkevin

On topic (not that I mind people sharing knowledge right here instead of spreading over several other threads which neither would've seen) :

All this talking about PSUs (and whining) made me remember something a friemd said. He's had two PSUs so far and he's telling me they get load when he's gaming. But he's on air so I really can't see how he could hear his PSU over his GPU. So I'm thinking, when I get my GPU under water will there be new noises I couldn't hear before ? Like the PSU or coil whine.
My original question was going to be whether or not PSUs got loud-ish once both CPU and GPU are under water and you're not running silly fans or silly speeds just to get a couple less ° (a noisy loop isn't worth it at all in my opinion) and if so why don't they make PSU waterblocks ?


----------



## Willhemmens

Not if you own a decent unit. Your OCZ, maybe. I've never heard a peep out of my Superflower because the fan is never running. If I stop the only two fans I have running currently my system, all I hear is central heating.

Why don't you water cool PSU? Well I once found out that atleast in some PSU's there is if not mains, high voltage in some of the heatsinks of the unit. If you put a copper or aluminium waterblock on, the power would go from the components to the coolant and straight into any other waterblocks, probably killing anything they're cooling.

There is also the pointlessness factor, watercooling would only get rid of fan noise, the squealing from low quality units would still be there.

Buy a decent unit for the cost of a normal unit + a waterblock and you won't need to watercool it.

Koolance do sell some though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> On topic (*not that I mind people sharing knowledge right here instead of spreading over several other threads which neither would've seen*) :
> All this talking about PSUs (and whining) made me remember something a friemd said. He's had two PSUs so far and he's telling me they get load when he's gaming. But he's on air so I really can't see how he could hear his PSU over his GPU. So I'm thinking, when I get my GPU under water will there be new noises I couldn't hear before ? Like the PSU or coil whine.
> My original question was going to be whether or not PSUs got loud-ish once both CPU and GPU are under water and you're not running silly fans or silly speeds just to get a couple less ° (a noisy loop isn't worth it at all in my opinion) and if so why don't they make PSU waterblocks ?


There are people who are just as dedicated to PSU's in their forum as there are watercoolers in here,you will get better assistance there.
Take it to the appropriate forum please.this is not the PSU thread.

Keep it on topic.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Maybe to get us back near topic, I will share some photo's









I have found a Antec rack Case I am using for the short term since my CM 690II is to small. Here is a planed layout:



This is until the new year when I hope to get a full tower case







Unless Santa is extremely nice to me









I have my first build/mod log going as well HERE if you are interested.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Water cooling thread
> OC =


even worse, I feel like I'm reading the "set your memory timings and show the world" thread


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Maybe to get us back near topic, I will share some photo's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have found a Antec rack Case I am using for the short term since my CM 690II is to small. Here is a planed layout:
> 
> 
> 
> This is until the new year when I hope to get a full tower case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless Santa is extremely nice to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my first build/mod log going as well HERE if you are interested.


Awesome build. One day (when I stop moving from country to country) I'm going to buy a rack and get some folding rigs and a sandbox going. (all of them with some great cooling







) I've seen some of these cases for sale and I have had to resist buying them.


----------



## mironccr345

Im going to miss my GTX 590.....


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Just picked up two Bitspower Black Sparkle Mini-Valve for about 4$ each, i couldn't be any happier now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my first ever water cooling parts that have Bitspower written on them . :3










but now they ar back at full price 38dollar


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are people who are just as dedicated to PSU's in their forum as there are watercoolers in here,you will get better assistance there.
> Take it to the appropriate forum please.this is not the PSU thread.
> Keep it on topic.


Oh well thank you for answering my questions and helping out. You know sharing your knowledge and all. NOT

So you reckon that my questions were totally off topic and had absolutely nothing to do with water cooling ? Well I'd like some explanation on that because I don't feel like I went off topic at all. If anything I brought us back on topic and did it pretty well taking the off topic discussion and turning it into something on topic. A smooth transition, that's what it was.
All you did was tell people they were off topic (duh, like they didn't already know that and it's not as if Fuganator had already done that...) and to move to the appropriate section.
PSU experts aren't necessarily water coolers and would have no idea whether: A, after water cooling both GPU and CPU the PSU's noise was a nuisance. B, if you can actually water cool a PSU. So, no I'm not off topic, and neither would I get better assistance over there.
You may have misread my post and not understood I wasn't following the off topic crowd but fixing things and trying to bring us back on topic but that's not my problem. I personally read your post five times to check if I wasn't over reacting (which I feel like I am as you weren't agressive in your reply). I take the blame for my mistakes and when I **** up I don't hide and pretend like it wasn't me, that I didn't do anything. But I will not tolerate people telling me I've done wrong when I haven't (reminds me off the time somebody had a go at me because this was apparently a Picture gallery and not a place to ask for help about water cooling).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Not if you own a decent unit. Your OCZ, maybe. I've never heard a peep out of my Superflower because the fan is never running. If I stop the only two fans I have running currently my system, all I hear is central heating.
> Why don't you water cool PSU? Well I once found out that atleast in some PSU's there is if not mains, high voltage in some of the heatsinks of the unit. If you put a copper or aluminium waterblock on, the power would go from the components to the coolant and straight into any other waterblocks, probably killing anything they're cooling.
> There is also the pointlessness factor, watercooling would only get rid of fan noise, the squealing from low quality units would still be there.
> Buy a decent unit for the cost of a normal unit + a waterblock and you won't need to watercool it.
> Koolance do sell some though.


Thank you for acting like a normal person and actually helping me by answering my questions








+Rep for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Im going to miss my GTX 590.....


Wow, now that's a good looking water block !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but now they ar back at full price 38dollar


too bad, I've still got to get a drain line and was going to pm one fo you yesterday to see if I could order one (if the shipping wasn't something crazy like 40€).


----------



## Fuganater

There are several other ball valves out there that are way cheaper than the BP one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Oh well thank you for answering my questions and helping out. You know sharing your knowledge and all. NOT
> So you reckon that my questions were totally off topic and had absolutely nothing to do with water cooling ? Well I'd like some explanation on that because I don't feel like I went off topic at all. If anything I brought us back on topic and did it pretty well taking the off topic discussion and turning it into something on topic. A smooth transition, that's what it was.
> All you did was tell people they were off topic (duh, like they didn't already know that and it's not as if Fuganator had already done that...) and to move to the appropriate section.
> PSU experts aren't necessarily water coolers and would have no idea whether: A, after water cooling both GPU and CPU the PSU's noise was a nuisance. B, if you can actually water cool a PSU. So, no I'm not off topic, and neither would I get better assistance over there.
> You may have misread my post and not understood I wasn't following the off topic crowd but fixing things and trying to bring us back on topic but that's not my problem. I personally read your post five times to check if I wasn't over reacting (which I feel like I am as you weren't agressive in your reply). I take the blame for my mistakes and when I **** up I don't hide and pretend like it wasn't me, that I didn't do anything. But I will not tolerate people telling me I've done wrong when I haven't (reminds me off the time somebody had a go at me because this was apparently a Picture gallery and not a place to ask for help about water cooling).
> Thank you for acting like a normal person and actually helping me by answering my questions


I should of been more clear,i wasnt singling you out,i shouldnt of quoted your post perhaps...

There has been attempts to watercool PSU's and i believe koolance did a watercooled PSU at one point.

Tampering with PSU's is risky,there was a death recently reported due to someone taking apart their PSU and getting a belt of one of the caps,it is not something i encourage or endorse in any way.

The reason i say talk to the PSU guys is that have the experience to tell you if its worth it....which it isnt TBH,this is why you dont see people doing it.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I should've been more clear,i wasnt singling you out,i shouldnt have quoted your post perhaps...
> There has been attempts to watercool PSU's and i believe koolance did a watercooled PSU at one point.
> Tampering with PSU's is risky,there was a death recently reported due to someone taking apart their PSU and getting a belt of one of the caps,it is not something i encourage or endorse in any way.
> The reason i say talk to the PSU guys is that have the experience to tell you if its worth it....which it isnt TBH,this is why you dont see people doing it.


Ok, thank you for that.
And wow, dying because you weren't careful enough messing with your PSU. That's harsh.
I wasn't thinking about doing it myself (got loads to do already) I was just wondering. And yes, PPC apparently sell the Koolance water cooled PSU.

@mironccr345:
Damn, I can't stop myself coming back here and looking at that Block. I really wish I'd either got involved with water cooling earlier when EK did good looking blocks or that they hadn't changed their design...

@Tiborr (if you're there ^^):
Any update on what you guys are working on for people who really don't like CSQ and are holding back instead of getting it anyway ? Can you at least tell us whether we're ever going to see clear blocks like that 590 one above or not







?


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> There are several other ball valves out there that are way cheaper than the BP one.


Yea but not as good locking, planning on buying all BP in the future but they are a little overpriced.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Sooo, I can run it even on a 550w?


Considering my rig only pulls 1100 with 4 gpus, 4.8 cpu oc, 8dds, 19 fans, and 2 pumps I'm willing to bet you'll be fine at 550


----------



## Phelan

Hey guys, have a problem/question. Yesterday, I got my new Avexir RAM dimms in, and instead of taking the rig apart, I just switched thr dimms while everything was still in the case. Now, and what seems to be a related incident, when I start P95, my CPU temps instantly jump to 60*C from 30* @idle. Mind you this is 1 cpu and 1 gpu in a loop with an MCP35X and 2 480mm rads. Also the pump, which is hooked up vis pwm, shoots to 100% speed. Is it safe to assume that I
cracked the TIM, so I need to dissassenble it, clean it off and reapply it?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Hey guys, have a problem/question. Yesterday, I got my new Avexir RAM dimms in, and instead of taking the rig apart, I just switched thr dimms while everything was still in the case. Now, and what seems to be a related incident, when I start P95, my CPU temps instantly jump to 60*C from 30* @idle. Mind you this is 1 cpu and 1 gpu in a loop with an MCP35X and 2 480mm rads. Also the pump, which is hooked up vis pwm, shoots to 100% speed. Is it safe to assume that I
> cracked the TIM, so I need to dissassenble it, clean it off and reapply it?


I'm not quite sure why you would want to take your rig apart to replace your Ram.
Something did go wrong though.

yeah, sorry, that wasn't of any help


----------



## kkorky

Q: Whats wrong with the content in this picture?



A:http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks/310

Scroll down a bit


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but now they ar back at full price 38dollar


Just noticed that when looking for some EK fittings, glad i got 2 for the lower price.


----------



## CH4PZ

Just a lil sump sump im working on







http://www.overclock.net/t/1319954/katatonik-w-c-prodigy/0_100


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Q: Whats wrong with the content in this picture?
> 
> A:http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks/310
> Scroll down a bit


If that was for sale new now I'd definitely consider buying it - nice job


----------



## Fonne

*Bitspower Summit EF CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Intel LGA Series - Full Nickel*

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16938/ex-blc-1210/Bitspower_Summit_EF_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_Full_Nickel_BP-WBCPUIBA-CUMBKSL.html



Very nice looking block


----------



## _Killswitch_

After Seeing Wermad's rig, I'm getting more interesting in the cooper tubing Idea. Around here cooper tubing isn't real costly so may venture into the idea more.

Just curious if there's good guides on how to do it? Like preparing the tubing/best tube sizes/ Which fitting to use/ what tools are good for bending it.

Just I prob be able to have it chrom plated since where I live is small, and chrome plating places aren't around here. Nearest place is prob IL, which be cheaper to paint it matte black or something myself, would be as fancy as the chrome plating but eh my pocket's are swallow =(


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> After Seeing Wermad's rig, I'm getting more interesting in the cooper tubing Idea. Around here cooper tubing isn't real costly so may venture into the idea more.
> Just curious if there's good guides on how to do it? Like preparing the tubing/best tube sizes/ Which fitting to use/ what tools are good for bending it.
> Just I prob be able to have it chrom plated since where I live is small, and chrome plating places aren't around here. Nearest place is prob IL, which be cheaper to paint it matte black or something myself, would be as fancy as the chrome plating but eh my pocket's are swallow =(


There is a guide in my Sig that i have done.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> After Seeing Wermad's rig, I'm getting more interesting in the cooper tubing Idea. Around here cooper tubing isn't real costly so may venture into the idea more.
> Just curious if there's good guides on how to do it? Like preparing the tubing/best tube sizes/ Which fitting to use/ what tools are good for bending it.
> Just I prob be able to have it chrom plated since where I live is small, and chrome plating places aren't around here. Nearest place is prob IL, which be cheaper to paint it matte black or something myself, would be as fancy as the chrome plating but eh my pocket's are swallow =(


Have a look at B Negatives thread about copper piping: http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101

edit: damn these slow keyboards....


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *Bitspower Summit EF CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Intel LGA Series - Full Nickel*
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16938/ex-blc-1210/Bitspower_Summit_EF_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_Full_Nickel_BP-WBCPUIBA-CUMBKSL.html
> 
> Very nice looking block


man i would love to have 2 of those in my rig.... but have to get over the hurtle of getting everything else.


----------



## RKTGX95

does anyone stabilize their GPU with the tubing pulling a bit up the waterblock or is it not such a good idea? (having serious problems with gpu apparently being too heavy, and thats without a WB on air)


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> does anyone stabilize their GPU with the tubing pulling a bit up the waterblock or is it not such a good idea? (having serious problems with gpu apparently being too heavy, and thats without a WB on air)


there are many ways to stabilize your GPU: Scythe Ninja Wire, fishing line, using the WC tubes, using a GPU "jack", backplates, case add-ons, etc.


----------



## superericla

I just use a test bench with horizontal motherboard mounting. GPU bending is no issue here.


----------



## phillyd

I have a powercolor power jack for my 7970 DD block


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> there are many ways to stabilize your GPU: Scythe Ninja Wire, fishing line, using the WC tubes, using a GPU "jack", backplates, case add-ons, etc.


i did consider using a little dark string, but i (still) find it too silly looking.
one of the benefits that i have found that make me want WC is that. (obviously the temps, noise and looks too. and brag rights







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I have a powercolor power jack for my 7970 DD block


if only i had that "jack" available (locally that is)
does your card work without it?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 7970>670. Grab three 7970s and three 1440 monitors and call it a day


But the 670 tiny PCB is so freaking adorable!



Look at dose writtle fellars!

On a serious note, the fact that these draw so little power makes me love them. Can put them in just about any loop without worrying on heat. Not everyone puts multiple monstas in their builds.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Anyone know of any reviews or comparisons of the Alphacool Monsta? Or is it just one of those things if it fits get it because it's a MONSTA!


Bundymania's recent radiator roundup featured them I believe.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> does anyone stabilize their GPU with the tubing pulling a bit up the waterblock or is it not such a good idea? (having serious problems with gpu apparently being too heavy, and thats without a WB on air)


a backplate might be sufficient


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> But the 670 tiny PCB is so freaking adorable!
> 
> Look at dose writtle fellars!
> On a serious note, the fact that these draw so little power makes me love them. Can put them in just about any loop without worrying on heat. Not everyone puts multiple monstas in their builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bundymania's recent radiator roundup featured them I believe.


I agwee dose cute wittwe bwocks on da six sewendy dawwwWWW!

No sag and it helps show off that pretty chipset heatsink on your mobo!

speaking of have you oc'd/benched yours? I can't get mine to 10k to be in the 10k cool kid club as I call it.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ My 6870 would crush one of those little squirts. AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!







55.1 FutureMark OpenGL runs.







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Q: Whats wrong with the content in this picture?
> 
> 
> 
> A:http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks/310
> 
> Scroll down a bit


Awesomesauce!!! Love it. Would have probably cost you more to strip it on your own unless you had a spare battery an a pice of copper wire and a piece of lead with Battery Acid handy.









I'm gonna start stocking up on the bits to have in my shop for future needs/customer requests.









~Ceadder


----------



## NewHighScore

oops tried to edit last post instead quoted it :\

you didn't see this message


----------



## RKTGX95

look at what have finally arrived to PPCS:


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I agwee dose cute wittwe bwocks on da six sewendy dawwwWWW!
> No sag and it helps show off that pretty chipset heatsink on your mobo!
> speaking of have you oc'd/benched yours? I can't get mine to 10k to be in the 10k cool kid club as I call it.


I'm heavily bottlenecked right now because I can't get my motherboard to flash to PCI-E 3.0, so one of my 670s is running at PCI-E 2.0 x8.

So far, my best 3DMark11 run has been P18364, cards at 1188/3096, proc at 4.3. Still have my showcase crap corsair memory instead of Samsung bench kit in there. Memory fails when I do anything outside of a preset XMP or 1333.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a guide in my Sig that i have done.


Thanks B-Neg, now I'm tored between cooper tubing and pvc/Arcylic tubing. Finding metric pvc/Arcylic tubing is proving difficult. Just wish there was more fittings Options for this =(


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a guide in my Sig that i have done.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks B-Neg, now I'm tored between cooper tubing and pvc/Arcylic tubing. Finding metric pvc/Arcylic tubing is proving difficult. Just wish there was more fittings Options for this =(
Click to expand...

What size metric? You should be able to use SAE tubing. Yeah there is a variance but if the Metric is just slightly larger than the closest SAE, it should work. Not for push fittings of course but with a solid flaring kit you can enlarge the buttes of the tubing for Copper. PVC is another story altogether though it's still possible to make it work properly.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I'm heavily bottlenecked right now because I can't get my motherboard to flash to PCI-E 3.0, so one of my 670s is running at PCI-E 2.0 x8.
> So far, my best 3DMark11 run has been P18364, cards at 1188/3096, proc at 4.3. Still have my showcase crap corsair memory instead of Samsung bench kit in there. Memory fails when I do anything outside of a preset XMP or 1333.


Jees, I have three 580's clocked at 970 and my 2700k at 4.7 and getting 15982 in 3dmark11. Gonna try and tweak it some more, but that is an awesome score with one less gpu than me. Meh, 580's get more PPD and that's what counts for me. Lets see if the GK2** series can do better than the current gen and I might think of upgrading.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Jees, I have three 580's clocked at 970 and my 2700k at 4.7 and getting 15982 in 3dmark11. Gonna try and tweak it some more, but that is an awesome score with one less gpu than me. Meh, 580's get more PPD and that's what counts for me. Lets see if the GK2** series can do better than the current gen and I might think of upgrading.


Nah, I have three cards as well. It's just that one of those three is performing way under what it should.

I'd imagine I'll be able to hit over 20K once I get everything sorted out.

*edit*

Last I'll speak of this, as it's off topic! Sorry BNeg.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Thanks B-Neg, now I'm tored between cooper tubing and pvc/Arcylic tubing. Finding metric pvc/Arcylic tubing is proving difficult. Just wish there was more fittings Options for this =(


?

There is a list of pipe stockists for the US in the first post?

Acrylic tube i cant help you with.I know Darth Beavis has acrylic tube in his latest build tho,I can ask him where he got his?
I can help you with the bending of that too, if you need it.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ?
> There is a list of pipe stockists for the US in the first post?
> Acrylic tube i cant help you with.I know Darth Beavis has acrylic tube in his latest build tho,I can ask him where he got his?
> I can help you with the bending of that too, if you need it.


K.3nny said he got his from a local hardware store.

Not sure whether that'll help or not.


----------



## IT Diva

McMaster is your friend.

P/N 8532K13 for a 6' length of 1/2"OD X 3/8"ID

http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-hollow-rods/=k2tq8f

Darlene


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair---Air-Series-SP120-High-Performance-Edition-120mm-High-Static-Pressure-Fan/5429797.p?skuId=5429797&productCategoryId=abcat0507007&id=1218650481319 <- are these any good?
> If so, I can get 2 free.


Very loud. Don't even think about getting them. The quiet edition ones will be way better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Thanks B-Neg, now I'm tored between cooper tubing and pvc/Arcylic tubing. Finding metric pvc/Arcylic tubing is proving difficult. Just wish there was more fittings Options for this =(
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> There is a list of pipe stockists for the US in the first post?
> 
> Acrylic tube i cant help you with.I know Darth Beavis has acrylic tube in his latest build tho,I can ask him where he got his?
> I can help you with the bending of that too, if you need it.
Click to expand...

He's in the UK if I read it right. US suppliers aren't gonna help his cause nless he wishes to pay the freight.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rognin

&$^%^$*(&. I hate any radiator manufacturers that use M3 screws on thier mounting plenum!

I can't find 45mm M3 screws to mount fans to a Phobya 480 (the square kind). I thought of short screws but then I wouldn't be able to mount the middle of the four fans. I need to mount all four as the fans are 3k RPM +.

Any ideas? (no hardware stores around, type my location in google maps)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> McMaster is your friend.
> P/N 8532K13 for a 6' length of 1/2"OD X 3/8"ID
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-hollow-rods/=k2tq8f
> Darlene


Doesnt work in the fittings, 12mm or bust really,its close but not close enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> &$^%^$*(&. I hate any radiator manufacturers that use M3 screws on thier mounting plenum!
> I can't find 45mm M3 screws to mount fans to a Phobya 480 (the square kind). I thought of short screws but then I wouldn't be able to mount the middle of the four fans. I need to mount all four as the fans are 3k RPM +.
> Any ideas? (no hardware stores around, type my location in google maps)


Enjoy the Kazes,i know i did...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He's in the UK if I read it right. US suppliers aren't gonna help his cause nless he wishes to pay the freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Is he in the UK?
I didnt see that.....


----------



## IT Diva

which fittings?

I thought 1/2" worked with BP crystal link ends

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> which fittings?
> I thought 1/2" worked with BP crystal link ends
> Darlene


Not without re-profiling,they are just too big.
People have done it but its a major pain in the ass sanding them down.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Enjoy the Kazes,i know i did...


Nope, better than that. Mechatronics Fans, they also aren't used inside the computer room but outside at a nice (current) cozy -4c. They resist to -40c and I used them all last winter without an issue. Just needed more cooling power so I bought two more and moved from a 240 to a square 480...

I still need those screws though...


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> &$^%^$*(&.
> Any ideas? (no hardware stores around, type my location in google maps)


Wow. Google maps doesn't do your location any justice, zoomed in, zoomed out, its all a big white. The largest wetland in North America. Oof !

*Add*: I googled about that area and came across this rather amzzzing ! claim - less gravity in Hudson bay area


----------



## ikem

hmm to water cool, or to not water cool....

im sure i could fit a h series cooler in there easy, or even a full loop in there. Internals are currently going to be a 3870k, unless i can get a trinity setup.


----------



## shaft06

Hi. Just finished my build.
Cosmos 2.
EK CSQ Blocks
Swiftech MCP35X2.
Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-Flow /top
Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm /bottom
Tygon A-60-G Norprene


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> &$^%^$*(&. I hate any radiator manufacturers that use M3 screws on thier mounting plenum!
> I can't find 45mm M3 screws to mount fans to a Phobya 480 (the square kind). I thought of short screws but then I wouldn't be able to mount the middle of the four fans. I need to mount all four as the fans are 3k RPM +.
> Any ideas? (no hardware stores around, type my location in google maps)


http://www.mcmaster.com/#









Got my stuff in from DD. You will be missed


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I like Norprene.

First CSQ build i have seen that i like....

....mainly cos i cant actually see the CSQ.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my stuff in from DD. You will be missed


Nice, though now I have a pack of 50 screws and I only needed 16... lol


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I put it up,vote if you can be bothered.
> http://www.cooledpc.com/posts/view/258


Excellent job !

What is the "zip tie" you use to keep the cables in such an orderly form?

Do i have to be registered at EK to vote? This rig definately worths a vote!


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaft06*
> 
> Hi. Just finished my build.
> Cosmos 2.
> EK CSQ Blocks
> Swiftech MCP35X2.
> Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-Flow /top
> Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm /bottom
> Tygon A-60-G Norprene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Build. Im gonna have to agree with B that Norprene is pretty awesome. Might have to consider it! Looks like you can make some really nice bends with it as well. Good work!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Excellent job !
> What is the "zip tie" you use to keep the cables in such an orderly form?
> Do i have to be registered at EK to vote? This rig definately worths a vote!


Erm....its a ziptie.

Unless you mean the tubing?

Register at the top of that page,you can use Facebook if you dont want to register.

Thanks for your vote!


----------



## shaft06

Norprene is awesome to work with, soft and flexible and zero effort tightening fittings. Anyone who has rubbed their fingers raw on compression fittings will appreciate that. I used 3/8"-5/8".


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Nice, though now I have a pack of 50 screws and I only needed 16... lol


Its ~$10. Ppcs.com sells screws, 4pck, but once you add all the ones you need and shipping, it'll come up to ~$10.

I used to buy my screws from them and frozencpu all the time. Then i needed ones in custom lengths. KevinBMX told me about mcmastercarr.com. Since then, tts one of the best places to get screws in specific sizes. And they have pretty much everything. The spares, you can always sell or keep them. They also have other items. I bought a g1/4 tap and bit set from there. I have yet to put them to use but I have some plans for the future for creating some customs wc items.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaft06*
> 
> Norprene is awesome to work with, soft and flexible and zero effort tightening fittings. Anyone who has rubbed their fingers raw on compression fittings will appreciate that. I used 3/8"-5/8".


Once you go norprene you never go back (there's a pun in there...)

Only downside is the bend radius is higher than other tubing. Nothing Anti-Kink can't fix...

Ohh and no plastiziser problems... although who care, you can't see through it anyways...








Quote:


> Its ~$10. Ppcs.com sells screws, 4pck, but once you add all the ones you need and shipping, it'll come up to ~$10.
> 
> I used to buy my screws from them and frozencpu all the time. Then i needed ones in custom lengths. KevinBMX told me about mcmastercarr.com. Since then, tts one of the best places to get screws in specific sizes. And they have pretty much everything. The spares, you can always sell or keep them. They also have other items. I bought a g1/4 tap and bit set from there. I have yet to put them to use but I have some plans for the future for creating some customs wc items.


Yeah checked Frozencpu, and they have up to 40mm but no more. And I think I just found my mod supply store... =P

Wonder if they ship to Kanuckia...


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> hands down, clean rig 10/10 lol. very nice color scheme too, know what case that is by the way?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Looks like a lian li PC-X2000.


Looked better when it was in the 800D


----------



## _Killswitch_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He's in the UK if I read it right. US suppliers aren't gonna help his cause nless he wishes to pay the freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ceadder, I'm from the UK? I'm from the U.S and finding a supplier in the U.S with metric Pvc/Arcylic tubing is being difficult.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaft06*
> 
> Hi. Just finished my build.
> Cosmos 2.
> EK CSQ Blocks
> Swiftech MCP35X2.
> Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-Flow /top
> Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm /bottom
> Tygon A-60-G Norprene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You have a bit of a kink in your CPU > Mosfet tube, might want to get some coils or some angled fittings.


----------



## zeegzeigler

i want to join!!!!!!!
my old candy pain rig





thanks guys


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He's in the UK if I read it right. US suppliers aren't gonna help his cause nless he wishes to pay the freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ceadder, I'm from the UK? I'm from the U.S and finding a supplier in the U.S with metric Pvc/Arcylic tubing is being difficult.
Click to expand...

Ahhh kk, have you tried Lowes, Home Depot or OSH? Or maybe Tap Plastics?

~Ceadder


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME*
> 
> Never posted mine in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Here it is, while it lasts!!! I just finished it a couple weeks ago


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> hmm to water cool, or to not water cool....
> im sure i could fit a h series cooler in there easy, or even a full loop in there. Internals are currently going to be a 3870k, unless i can get a trinity setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Custom loop, or stick with that cooler you had on it in the beast mATX/ITX thread. None of that closed loop business.


----------



## kyismaster

look what I just ordered!


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> look what I just ordered!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










It is finally out... I wanted this keyboard from the moment they talked about it.... Such an amazing deal on it too, is it from the cooler master site?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is finally out... I wanted this keyboard from the moment they talked about it.... Such an amazing deal on it too, is it from the cooler master site?


lol wrong quote

I bought the Coolermaster TK from a coolermaster rep/dev/person lol

for 90.

I bought two keyboards

Quickfire rapid - $28

and Quickfire TK - $90 - I'll be either the first, or one of the first in the world to have it







a week early from release.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol wrong quote
> I bought the Coolermaster TK from a coolermaster rep/dev/person lol
> for 90.
> I bought two keyboards
> Quickfire rapid - $28
> and Quickfire TK - $90 - I'll be either the first, or one of the first in the world to have it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a week early from release.


I don't know how CM makes any money with all the variations they have in these keyboards lol. Nice keyboard. I have the CM Storm Trigger.


----------



## Ceadderman

Guys, I think there is a thread for this. I know I'm not normally one to bang this drum but can we please stick to topic? Thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol wrong quote
> I bought the Coolermaster TK from a coolermaster rep/dev/person lol
> for 90.
> I bought two keyboards
> Quickfire rapid - $28
> and Quickfire TK - $90 - I'll be either the first, or one of the first in the world to have it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a week early from release.


I will climb up Mount Everest read all your 3200 posts just if I could get my hands on one too (TK that is)


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I don't know how CM makes any money with all the variations they have in these keyboards lol. Nice keyboard. I have the CM Storm Trigger.


Its easy

Quckfire rapid = 10 keyless

QF Storm = ???

QF pro = 10+ keys with half LED's

QF TK = QF PRO + QF rapid but with short 10 key and full LED's lol


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Guys, I think there is a thread for this. I know I'm not normally one to bang this drum but can we please stick to topic? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


will do.

I get my WC tomorrow yay!!

however, im not sure where my monsoon fitings are....







i got no tracking for them


----------



## Phelan

CM Storm Trigger is basically the TK but with 5 macro keys along the left side and the ability to program any key into a macro key.

Now back on topic of watercooling, anybody ever thought of making their own block? Thinking about trying to make a custom waterblock for my northbridge, even though there are blocks available...


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> CM Storm Trigger is basically the TK but with 5 macro keys along the left side and the ability to program any key into a macro key.
> 
> Now back on topic of watercooling, anybody ever thought of making their own block? Thinking about trying to make a custom waterblock for my northbridge, even though there are blocks available...


IDK if they have build logs here but AngelOD and Cheapskate only use custom made blocks. I've seen several other people also make them for their CPU, GPU and mobo.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Do waterblocks work on the Diamond 7970 reference model card? I didn't find it listed in the compatibility list for the Alphacool block.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## eskamobob1

A refrence block will work on any refrence card







... And question guys... How hard is to to WC FB-DIMM ram? I would love for it to match the rest of my system, but of its too much trouble, I'll leave them on air


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Do waterblocks work on the Diamond 7970 reference model card? I didn't find it listed in the compatibility list for the Alphacool block.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Diamond is reference therefor it works with reference blocks. Are you looking at the new vrm cooled Alphacool block?

Woo, just got most of everything back together. Look ma, added a new rad.



Btw, here are two diamond cards, the top two with ref ek blocks.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Would acrylic tubing suffer from plasticsizer? Sorry do no have spell check on phone.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Would acrylic tubing suffer from plasticsizer? Sorry do no have spell check on phone.


No, but the plasticizer if you have it will get stuck to the acrylic just like anything else. If you're thinking about using acrylic tube instead of regular tubing, it's hard to work with. It's not flexible so you will have to jump thru hoops to make point A match point B. Copper's a better alternative.


----------



## ginger_nuts

So running a loop with only acrylic and normal blocks and delrin, will give a maintenance free loop? Providing everything is setup correctly.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> If that was for sale new now I'd definitely consider buying it - nice job


Thank you mate-the main work was really done by others, my part involved finding someone who could do the job properly and treat the block with care (most re platers do not undertake such small jobs from my experience-unless ofc you are willing to pay stupid money)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ My 6870 would crush one of those little squirts. AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 55.1 FutureMark OpenGL runs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Awesomesauce!!! Love it. Would have probably cost you more to strip it on your own unless you had a spare battery an a pice of copper wire and a piece of lead with Battery Acid handy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna start stocking up on the bits to have in my shop for future needs/customer requests.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I thank you kind sir







, with regards to old gear, yes im still looking out for 'ruined' blocks that can be restored now that ive seen what is possible up at close quarters.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> &$^%^$*(&. I hate any radiator manufacturers that use M3 screws on thier mounting plenum!
> I can't find 45mm M3 screws to mount fans to a Phobya 480 (the square kind). I thought of short screws but then I wouldn't be able to mount the middle of the four fans. I need to mount all four as the fans are 3k RPM +.
> Any ideas? (no hardware stores around, type my location in google maps)


If this guy does not sell them-then no one does-he also ships internationally for very good rates.

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/unc_cap_screws.htm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So running a loop with only acrylic and normal blocks and delrin, will give a maintenance free loop? Providing everything is setup correctly.


Your fellow countryman @ Singularity Computers has build rigs using only BP crystal links,

Go to:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEAI0ohy4Ko&list=UUqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA&index=7&feature=plcp

Enjoy


----------



## eskamobob1

It doesn't have plasticizer issues in the majority of cases (its possible technically, but I have never seen it)... Also, would you let me know where u get your tubing? I am having a tough time finding someone that supplies anything close to 12mm









EDIT: it won't be marinence free as nothing is... Hard lining with acrylic tubes is tough work as well... You have to keep straight lines and will cost you probably 100x more in fittings then normal... I think copper is a good option if ur just going for low maitinence... It's a lot harder then normal tubing, but still 10x easier then using acrylic tubes


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Now back on topic of watercooling, anybody ever thought of making their own block? Thinking about trying to make a custom waterblock for my northbridge, even though there are blocks available...


When I get my student edition of Solidworks (fall semester next year, I think), I will probably design a custom CPU block. I could make one up in AutoCAD right now but with Solidworks I'll be better able to do thermal simulation and flow testing to come up with a really optimal design. Then eventually I'll get the chance to CNC it up or maybe just mill it by hand depending on the complexity of the design. Or I can 3D print a pattern and use investment casting to make a base with very fine micro-channels. So many possibilities.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> A refrence block will work on any refrence card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... And question guys... How hard is to to WC FB-DIMM ram? I would love for it to match the rest of my system, but of its too much trouble, I'll leave them on air


Thanks! Just wanted to make sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Diamond is reference therefor it works with reference blocks. Are you looking at the new vrm cooled Alphacool block?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> Woo, just got most of everything back together. Look ma, added a new rad.
> 
> Btw, here are two diamond cards, the top two with ref ek blocks.


I was looking at that one, I wasn't sure if it would work with my card. It looks like it was made for custom PCB 7970.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaft06*
> 
> Hi. Just finished my build.
> Cosmos 2.
> EK CSQ Blocks
> Swiftech MCP35X2.
> Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-Flow /top
> Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm /bottom
> Tygon A-60-G Norprene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice clean build, I like the choice of tubing!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Looked better when it was in the 800D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How long did it take you to get every single black wire positioned so perfectly? Impressive build I love the reservoir!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Do waterblocks work on the Diamond 7970 reference model card? I didn't find it listed in the compatibility list for the Alphacool block.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Diamond is reference therefor it works with reference blocks. Are you looking at the new vrm cooled Alphacool block?
> 
> Woo, just got most of everything back together. Look ma, added a new rad.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, here are two diamond cards, the top two with ref ek blocks.
Click to expand...

oh no! 1 upped! Guess I need to build a 2nd rad stand lol.


----------



## _REAPER_

Just finished getting the last of what I will need to start my build..


----------



## steelkevin

@kkorky

That website will only charge me £8 for 50 M3x30 screws shipping included. That's what aquatuning charges for shipping alone a d if I remember well they think they've got golden screws and charged me over 2€ for 5 tiny m3s.
It's always surprising to see honest shipping rates and prices







.

+Rep and that website gooes to my bookmarks









Edit: I was wrong about aquatuning charging over 2€ for a pack of 5. It's weird that I really thought they'd charged so much, I'll have to check my emails to see how much I'd paid.

Edit2: Checked my order back from September, it was actually 0.99€ for Four M3x12 screws that I needed to mount my Noctuas to my bottom rad. ********, I just realized that meant I probably don't have enough M3x30 (or x35) to mount the Four Apache Black fans that are on their way (I'm finally replacing the Noctuas). I guess your link will come in handy sooner than expected.


----------



## Squadd

Hi Guys. This my old XPredator


----------



## michigantoga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Looked better when it was in the 800D
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The stealth look is great, what kind of ram is that?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squadd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Guys. This my old XPredator


Seing that reminded me I had to ask about bottom rad mounting.

@everybody:
What do people usually do when they get a rad in that position ? Do they cut out the entire part under the rad ? Do they lift the case or put it on two piece of wood or a specially made "cupboard" with a whole in the middle for better airflow ?

@Squadd:
How about you ? What did you do ?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michigantoga*
> 
> The stealth look is great, what kind of ram is that?


Its G Skill Trident

( I had the same with my x58 Rampage III Extreme)


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Seing that reminded me I had to ask about bottom rad mounting.
> @everybody:
> What do people usually do when they get a rad in that position ? Do they cut out the entire part under the rad ? Do they lift the case or put it on two piece of wood or a specially made "cupboard" with a whole in the middle for better airflow ?
> @Squadd:
> How about you ? What did you do ?


buy a case with enough clearance









Probably the easiest way to do it would be to put your case on casters, then it can roll too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

When i close the box on one......


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When i close the box on one......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whats the game plan for this one?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

This another client build B?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> This another client build B?


Yeah,got a lot bigger budget for this one tho.
Should be fun.


----------



## PCModderMike

Hmmm bigger budget huh....should equal more epicness.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I need to get me a client!!


----------



## Fuganater

Worklog link B Neg?


----------



## Lazy Bear

Little update, still have to paint rads and install second 7970, also since taking this I've put the rest of the painted fans on the bottom and back rad.










Sorry about low light, I'll take some nicer ones later.

Here's the new pumps and res:


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Am I the only one that hates the look of those anti-kink coils???? No offense Lazy Bear, great rig, just my personal opinion....


----------



## Lazy Bear

I was getting kinks without them...

Well, not on the whole tube after the pumps, but the other two were getting mad kinks.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I can see why. Very tight bends....


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*


Did you paint the bottom of your GPU block white?


----------



## CircuitFreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Am I the only one that hates the look of those anti-kink coils???? No offense Lazy Bear, great rig, just my personal opinion....


You are not alone , I'm not the bigest fan of those things either. But to each his own. I think Crystal style links are the only way to avoid kinks on CPU to Ram Block connections.

Clean rig BTW bear. Love the fittings.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I used Crystal Link for all of my tight connections but its definitely not cheap...


----------



## phillyd

For those of you who build custom in America, how do you get clients?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Haven't yet! Still looking...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Worklog link B Neg?


Not yet Fug,talking to the guy about where i can go with this. Hopefully i get a free reign!


----------



## steelkevin

About acrylic tube.

Found some very cheap on ebay and you can chose many sizes.
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/200841498027?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619#ht_526wt_900

What size would have to be used in our case ?


----------



## ChudBensonfist

The basic carcass is metal, the rest is plastic, the layout is really clever and the features like hard drive ejects are actually useful. My only issue is the plastic needs a more matte finish and there's not enough cable space round the back, this is a big problem as they can be routed through holes out of sight but the cover fits far to close for this to really work.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

I've been sleeping with my window open for the past week so that my computer stays nice and chilly while folding. its 39 outside right now, so nothing too extreme haha. My cpu is sitting at 57 (4.6GHz) and my 680 is at 75, I have no plans of delidding my processor either but I do have a hydrocopper that will be here on tuesday.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> I've been sleeping with my window open for the past week so that my computer stays nice and chilly while folding. its 39 outside right now, so nothing too extreme haha. My cpu is sitting at 57 and my 680 is at 75, I have no plans of delidding my processor either but I do have a hydrocopper that will be here on tuesday.


How different are your core temps? To me that's the biggest reason I plan on de-lidding mine down the road... under load there's a 13C difference between hottest and coolest cores.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Very loud. Don't even think about getting them. The quiet edition ones will be way better.


They are only loud if you don't use a fan controller.

I have 6 of them running at low rpm and they are silent but in reality yes he is better off getting the quiet version to begin with.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> How different are your core temps? To me that's the biggest reason I plan on de-lidding mine down the road... under load there's a 13C difference between hottest and coolest cores.


I'm only seeing a 4-6°C difference using real temp


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> About acrylic tube.
> Found some very cheap on ebay and you can chose many sizes.
> http://www.ebay.fr/itm/200841498027?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619#ht_526wt_900
> What size would have to be used in our case ?


The problem with those offerings, is that the largest ID in the 12mm OD group is 8mm, which is really too small. It needs to be 12mm OD X 10mm ID.

The difference between 1/2" and 12mm is half a mm, about .020"

That's not that hard to turn down.

K.3nny did that on his latest.

Darlene

Designing in a scheme to allow for expansion / pressure changes is the challenge on fully hard acrylic tubed systems


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> How different are your core temps? To me that's the biggest reason I plan on de-lidding mine down the road... under load there's a 13C difference between hottest and coolest cores.


I thought huge differences between cores meant bad mounting of your CPU water block (or HeatSink).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The problem with those offerings, is that the largest ID in the 12mm OD group is 8mm, which is really too small. It needs to be 12mm OD X 10mm ID.
> The difference between 1/2" and 12mm is half a mm, about .020"
> That's not that hard to turn down.
> K.3nny did that on his latest.
> Darlene
> Designing in a scheme to allow for expansion / pressure changes is the challenge on fully hard acrylic tubed systems


Ok, thanks. I'll see what the local hardware stores have in stock whenever I go fetch an acrylic sheet (I won't be going Hard Acrylic Tubing before a while, I've got to mod the case first and then I'll start upgrading my hardware and loop).
Where did you figure I'd even got the idea of Acrylic tubing in the first place







?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The problem with those offerings, is that the largest ID in the 12mm OD group is 8mm, which is really too small. It needs to be 12mm OD X 10mm ID.
> The difference between 1/2" and 12mm is half a mm, about .020"
> That's not that hard to turn down.
> K.3nny did that on his latest.
> Darlene
> *Designing in a scheme to allow for expansion / pressure changes is the challenge on fully hard acrylic tubed systems*


One of these on the res,it doesnt even need that tbh.



I use one on my SR2.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> About acrylic tube.
> Found some very cheap on ebay and you can chose many sizes.
> http://www.ebay.fr/itm/200841498027?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619#ht_526wt_900
> What size would have to be used in our case ?
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with those offerings, is that the largest ID in the 12mm OD group is 8mm, which is really too small. It needs to be 12mm OD X 10mm ID.
> 
> The difference between 1/2" and 12mm is half a mm, about .020"
> 
> That's not that hard to turn down.
> 
> K.3nny did that on his latest.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Designing in a scheme to allow for expansion / pressure changes is the challenge on fully hard acrylic tubed systems
Click to expand...

Please share your evidence why 8mm is too small.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Little update, still have to paint rads and install second 7970, also since taking this I've put the rest of the painted fans on the bottom and back rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about low light, I'll take some nicer ones later.
> 
> Here's the new pumps and res:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Flip the script on that 120. change the hoses so the GPU feeds the Left port and the right port feeds the CPU. Just a thought. Might clean up your system at the same time. And use angle fittings to straighten out the kinks.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> For those of you who build custom in America, how do you get clients?


Word of mouth and advertising on the Grocery boards. Til I get my shop firmly established. I probably should be adverting in Craigslist as well but I'm a bit leery of Craigslist from all the horror stories I've heard.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> About acrylic tube.
> Found some very cheap on ebay and you can chose many sizes.
> http://www.ebay.fr/itm/200841498027?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619#ht_526wt_900
> What size would have to be used in our case ?
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with those offerings, is that the largest ID in the 12mm OD group is 8mm, which is really too small. It needs to be 12mm OD X 10mm ID.
> 
> The difference between 1/2" and 12mm is half a mm, about .020"
> 
> That's not that hard to turn down.
> 
> K.3nny did that on his latest.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Designing in a scheme to allow for expansion / pressure changes is the challenge on fully hard acrylic tubed systems
Click to expand...

Yup This. If it's solid material it can be turned down.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The problem with those offerings, is that the largest ID in the 12mm OD group is 8mm, which is really too small. It needs to be 12mm OD X 10mm ID.
> The difference between 1/2" and 12mm is half a mm, about .020"
> That's not that hard to turn down.
> K.3nny did that on his latest.
> Darlene
> *Designing in a scheme to allow for expansion / pressure changes is the challenge on fully hard acrylic tubed systems*
> 
> 
> 
> One of these on the res,it doesnt even need that tbh.
> 
> 
> 
> I use one on my SR2.
Click to expand...

Yeah I need one of those as my fillport plug so that air can get out to keep the system bubble free but keep dust and contaminants out of the loop.







Where'd you find that one. They only have Phobya and a couple others...







Nevermind.








~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*
> 
> You are not alone , I'm not the bigest fan of those things either. But to each his own. I think Crystal style links are the only way to avoid kinks on CPU to Ram Block connections.
> Clean rig BTW bear. Love the fittings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, I used Crystal Link for all of my tight connections but its definitely not cheap...


what are crystal links?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> what are crystal links?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> what are crystal links?


Overpriced ready to use small parts of Acrylic Tube (I think). If I'm not mistaken, they were meant to be used as SLI connectors ?
Yeah, wermad's picture. C47 being bitspower "fittings" for crystal links. And I'm not sure, others will probably know but I think only Bitspower makes such "fittings".

@wermad: I always thought it was pronounced Vermad like something German. I just noticed what it actually meant We R Mad. Never would've figured it out without reading it right below though


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I thought huge differences between cores meant bad mounting of your CPU water block (or HeatSink).


...and with any CPU other than Ivy you would be correct. With IB it still is, it's just that Intel is the one that mounted/spread their TIM incorrectly. Take a look at some of the results before and after on the de-lidding thread... It's insane, but results don't lie.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Please share your evidence why 8mm is too small.


Would you plumb an entire system with 5/16" tubing?

If you would, then 8mm is not too small . . . for you . .

10mm is only a few .001" s from 3/8", typically the smallest tubing for use in a full system.

ymmv

Darlene


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Did you paint the bottom of your GPU block white?


You mean the acetal top? No, I did not.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> ~ snip ~
> 
> Where did you figure I'd even got the idea of Acrylic tubing in the first place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


A little bird told me?









I'd been planning to use it in my upcoming Stretched Limo P820 build, have plenty in stock ready to go, and then K.3nny beat me to it, lol

Darlene


----------



## Michalius

So, I'm just not happy with my current reservoir situation. I love the D5 bay res itself, but I just can't get the front paint to match my case. Looking to switch it up with one of two choices. I'm not interested in any other choice, so I'm looking for constructive help on deciding between one of the two.

Case front currently:



My hidden area that will need to be modified (fittings/tubing changed here, but routing is exactly the same):



Option 1:

EK CSQ Dual Bay Reservoir, separate D5 TOP

1a:



1b:



Can't decide on which would be the option, as I am again worried about the white not matching up. If it does, I think it would be the obvious choice. Otherwise, having the exterior of my case be able to continue with that green theme outside of just the BitFenix logo would be nice. I like the idea of continuing with the lit up frosted acrylic here too with the green behind it. I'm really digging the look. The pain would be that this means I would need to have my D5 mounted next to this, and I don't think I'll be able to keep it concealed and tidy looking.

Option 2:

EK D5 X-Res 140



This would actually help me clean up the tubing as I would need fewer angle adapters. Mounted right on the outside of my 5.25" bay, it would also add a nice little bit of bling to the interior of the case with the reservoir filled with my custom shade of Mayhem's Pastel Green. The downside is that the front of the case would look a lot more plain.

So what say you OCN?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> ...and with any CPU other than Ivy you would be correct. With IB it still is, it's just that Intel is the one that mounted/spread their TIM incorrectly. Take a look at some of the results before and after on the de-lidding thread... It's insane, but results don't lie.


I'll check that if I remember too







.
I almost got a 3570K. Glad I didn't, I can't say I'm hearing much good about ivy...
It's sad how manufacturers use bad TIM (GPUs) and in this case can't apply it properly.

No matter what haswell turns out to be, that's what I'm getting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Would you plumb an entire system with 5/16" tubing?
> If you would, then 8mm is not too small . . . for you . .
> 10mm is only a few .001" s from 3/8", typically the smallest tubing for use in a full system.
> ymmv
> Darlene











I'm running 8mm ID 11.2mm OD Clearflex60. But I don't mind people bashing it. I only went with that because the fittings and tubing were way cheaper than any other size and at the time I couldn't afford the other options.
I don't think it looks too small but it's "weak". By that I mean there's no way you can give it the curves you want, it just dangles.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A little bird told me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd been planning to use it in my upcoming Stretched Limo P820 build, have plenty in stock ready to go, and then K.3nny beat me to it, lol
> Darlene


Read that in the Phantom club. Still, I'm looking forward to yours because I know it'll be detailed








.
Not that his isn't, it just looks like he put his photos in order, a little bit of text, posted it all and voilà. Plus I'd rather follow a worklog in real time than just have the whole thing at once and be done with it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Overpriced ready to use small parts of Acrylic Tube (I think). If I'm not mistaken, they were meant to be used as SLI connectors ?
> Yeah, wermad's picture. C47 being bitspower "fittings" for crystal links. And I'm not sure, others will probably know but I think only Bitspower makes such "fittings".


I think they mean using the fittings and some clear acrylic tube in lieu of plastic tube. Basically an extra long link tube to connect stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> @wermad: I always thought it was pronounced Vermad like something German. I just noticed what it actually meant We R Mad. Never would've figured it out without reading it right below though


Lol, I've gotten used to ppl misreading and mispronouncing it. Its the old-skool internet/texting format. Got it from Bukau (Dominion Tank Police):


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> So, I'm just not happy with my current reservoir situation. I love the D5 bay res itself, but I just can't get the front paint to match my case. Looking to switch it up with one of two choices. I'm not interested in any other choice, so I'm looking for constructive help on deciding between one of the two.
> Case front currently:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My hidden area that will need to be modified (fittings/tubing changed here, but routing is exactly the same):
> 
> Option 1:
> EK CSQ Dual Bay Reservoir, separate D5 TOP
> 1a:
> 
> 1b:
> 
> Can't decide on which would be the option, as I am again worried about the white not matching up. If it does, I think it would be the obvious choice. Otherwise, having the exterior of my case be able to continue with that green theme outside of just the BitFenix logo would be nice. I like the idea of continuing with the lit up frosted acrylic here too with the green behind it. I'm really digging the look. The pain would be that this means I would need to have my D5 mounted next to this, and I don't think I'll be able to keep it concealed and tidy looking.
> Option 2:
> EK D5 X-Res 140
> 
> This would actually help me clean up the tubing as I would need fewer angle adapters. Mounted right on the outside of my 5.25" bay, it would also add a nice little bit of bling to the interior of the case with the reservoir filled with my custom shade of Mayhem's Pastel Green. The downside is that the front of the case would look a lot more plain.
> So what say you OCN?


Hmm, thats a tough call, you gotta get the product in da house to see if it matches. I like the res option, but I see you don't have a fan controller ? isn't there a white NZXT fc ? surely that would match, if there's one to be had.

*ADD*: Oh wow. Any color that you want as long as its black ! Black is the old black. wth !!


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think they mean using the fittings and some clear acrylic tube in lieu of plastic tube. Basically an extra long link tube to connect stuff.
> Lol, I've gotten used to ppl misreading and mispronouncing it. Its the old-skool internet/texting format. Got it from Bukau (Dominion Tank Police):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So people call hard acrylic tubing "crystal link" ?









I've no idea what Bukau or the Dominion Tank Police is (it's probably something past generations know about though, no offense







). But I'm glad I'm not the only one who didn't notice the "We Are Mad !" text







.

@Michalius
I'd give my opinion but I hate CSQ and find those Reservoirs+Pump Tops look weird (and so does the anti cyclone thing).
I'd go with option 1b if I'd won a reservoir and had to choice between the three.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> So people call hard acrylic tubing "crystal link" ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've no idea what Bukau or the Dominion Tank Police is (it's probably something past generations know about though, no offense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But I'm glad I'm not the only one who didn't notice the "We Are Mad !" text
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It looks like its catching on. Just like copper tube is an alternative, you can do the same pretty much with clear plastic/acrylic/plexi tube. I guess its a "fitting" name







seeing that BP uses this concept already.

I used to be an avid anime fan. Still am, but not as much as before.

Spent all night rearranging my Monstas to make room for my new psu


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Overpriced ready to use small parts of Acrylic Tube (I think). If I'm not mistaken, they were meant to be used as SLI connectors ?
> Yeah, wermad's picture. C47 being bitspower "fittings" for crystal links. And I'm not sure, others will probably know but I think only Bitspower makes such "fittings".
> 
> 
> 
> I think they mean using the fittings and some clear acrylic tube in lieu of plastic tube. Basically an extra long link tube to connect stuff.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> @wermad: I always thought it was pronounced Vermad like something German. I just noticed what it actually meant We R Mad. Never would've figured it out without reading it right below though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Lol, I've gotten used to ppl misreading and mispronouncing it. Its the old-skool internet/texting format. Got it from Bukau (Dominion Tank Police):
Click to expand...

I call him werm. He responds well to it.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Would you plumb an entire system with 5/16" tubing?
> If you would, then 8mm is not too small . . . for you . .
> 10mm is only a few .001" s from 3/8", typically the smallest tubing for use in a full system.
> ymmv
> Darlene


Tube bore plays very little part in temps or flow,the bore of the fitting is the deciding factor.
My copper tubes are 9mm bore and i get plenty of flow..

In other news,Little Devil sent me a new XL window for my rig!

So we have gone from this...










to This!










Buy all his stuff....FTW


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tube bore plays very little part in temps or flow,the bore of the fitting is the deciding factor.
> My copper tubes are 9mm bore and i get plenty of flow..
> In other news,Little Devil sent me a new XL window for my rig!
> So we have gone from this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to This!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buy all his stuff....FTW


Nothing like a big window to show off all that hardware









You should convince them to send me a PC-V4 Bench. I really want one of those. I have some pretty cool build ideas for it...

Might just hit up dwood for one of his. They are looking really good as well. Love LD fit and finish though.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Tube bore plays very little part in temps or flow,the bore of the fitting is the deciding factor*.
> My copper tubes are 9mm bore and i get plenty of flow..
> In other news,Little Devil sent me a new XL window for my rig!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So we have gone from this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to This!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buy all his stuff....FTW


I agree that that is generally true, as long as the tube bore is greater than the fitting bore.

If the tube bore is smaller than the fitting bore, I'd suggest that the tube bore must then be the greater flow controlling factor.

If you're satisfied with the temps you get with 9mm, then it works for you and your system. Others' milage may vary

I use Bitspower wherever possible, and it consistantly mics at 10mm bore diameter.

9mm ID tube has over 25% greater cross sectional area than 8mm, and 10mm has over 50% more than 8mm,

Do not forget that with copper tube, you get some additional thermal dissipation via the tube, not present with plastic.

Darlene


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In other news,Little Devil sent me a new XL window for my rig!
> So we have gone from this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to This!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buy all his stuff....FTW


If only their shipping wasn't nearly $125, I'd buy the PC-V7 in a heartbeat.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> If only their shipping wasn't nearly $125, I'd buy the PC-V7 in a heartbeat.


Talk to Gary

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/systems.html

If they get another shippment of cases maybe they can throw a PC-V7 on there for ya.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Talk to Gary
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/systems.html
> If they get another shippment of cases maybe they can throw a PC-V7 on there for ya.


I'm not in a huge hurry to get out of my Shinobi XL, so I've been biding my time to see if they would show up at Sidewinder. I really should shoot him an email.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I agree that that is generally true, as long as the tube bore is greater than the fitting bore.
> If the tube bore is smaller than the fitting bore, I'd suggest that the tube bore must then be the greater flow controlling factor.
> If you're satisfied with the temps you get with 9mm, then it works for you and your system. Others' milage may vary
> I use Bitspower wherever possible, and it consistantly mics at 10mm bore diameter.
> 9mm ID tube has over 25% greater cross sectional area than 8mm, and 10mm has over 50% more than 8mm,
> Do not forget that with copper tube, you get some additional thermal dissipation via the tube, not present with plastic.
> Darlene


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?147767-The-impact-of-tubing-sizes

Less than tenth of a degree between them.

Tubing is widely known to have no real impact on loop performance.
Its purely an aesthetic choice,i like 16/10mm....some like the sausage tubing,not often you see small bore stuff tho as its not the trend right now.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> If only their shipping wasn't nearly $125, I'd buy the PC-V7 in a heartbeat.
> 
> 
> 
> Talk to Gary
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/systems.html
> 
> If they get another shippment of cases maybe they can throw a PC-V7 on there for ya.
Click to expand...



OMurGAAAAWRD!!! That looks so awesomesauce!!!









I want one for client system test bench purposes.









~Ceadder


----------



## ginger_nuts

Love the word making "awesomesauce".

File that one away for future use









Oh and I totally agree, sexy looking bench


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> OMurGAAAAWRD!!! That looks so awesomesauce!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want one for client system test bench purposes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Bloody thing came out like 3 weeks after i bought my Dimastech bench......how gutted was i.....


----------



## Krahe

Havent quite finished this yet, but had to get my 8350 up and running


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> OMurGAAAAWRD!!! That looks so awesomesauce!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want one for client system test bench purposes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bloody thing came out like 3 weeks after i bought my Dimastech bench......how gutted was i.....
Click to expand...

Yeah I bet. Glad I didn't have the money for the Dimastech when it came out cause that looked ubersmeckinsmecy I woulda jumped it soon as it got inside the door like a long lost lover. Woulda chaffed too.









But this thing is just pure Awesomesauce. And I will be saving up to get it. Having that on my build table to impress potential clients will pay for itself in short order.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Havent quite finished this yet, but had to get my 8350 up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean...


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I bet. Glad I didn't have the money for the Dimastech when it came out cause that looked ubersmeckinsmecy I woulda jumped it soon as it got inside the door like a long lost lover. Woulda chaffed too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But this thing is just pure Awesomesauce. And I will be saving up to get it. Having that on my build table to impress potential clients will pay for itself in short order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I wish I could tell you all my ideas for it









If only I could afford it and keep my TJ07 but I dont think I can. Sell the TJ ?


----------



## Fonne

Is there any people that is testing watercooling stuff when its not from a big company ? - Its a long way from right now, but if I was going to make a new D5 top (Or something like it), and would like to see how its perform compared to others on the marked, or just to see what a more experienced watercooling think about it - Is there any out there that is testing stuff like that ?.

Hope you can understand what I am trying to explain.

/Fonne


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any people that is testing watercooling stuff when its not from a big company ? - Its a long way from right now, but if I was going to make a new D5 top (Or something like it), and would like to see how its perform compared to others on the marked, or just to see what a more experienced watercooling think about it - Is there any out there that is testing stuff like that ?.
> Hope you can understand what I am trying to explain.
> /Fonne


Have you finished any of the other things you said you are making?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Not much to look at, just an in-your-face of my current rig.


----------



## Fonne

Is still waiting to get some free machine time, all the CNC programs is ready to run .... That why I sad it was a long way from now, but just curious


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Havent quite finished this yet, but had to get my 8350 up and running


Great work man. Easily one of the best builds I have seen around here.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> So, I'm just not happy with my current reservoir situation. I love the D5 bay res itself, but I just can't get the front paint to match my case. Looking to switch it up with one of two choices. I'm not interested in any other choice, so I'm looking for constructive help on deciding between one of the two.
> Case front currently:
> 
> My hidden area that will need to be modified (fittings/tubing changed here, but routing is exactly the same):
> 
> Option 1:
> EK CSQ Dual Bay Reservoir, separate D5 TOP
> 1a:
> 
> 1b:
> 
> Can't decide on which would be the option, as I am again worried about the white not matching up. If it does, I think it would be the obvious choice. Otherwise, having the exterior of my case be able to continue with that green theme outside of just the BitFenix logo would be nice. I like the idea of continuing with the lit up frosted acrylic here too with the green behind it. I'm really digging the look. The pain would be that this means I would need to have my D5 mounted next to this, and I don't think I'll be able to keep it concealed and tidy looking.
> Option 2:
> EK D5 X-Res 140
> 
> This would actually help me clean up the tubing as I would need fewer angle adapters. Mounted right on the outside of my 5.25" bay, it would also add a nice little bit of bling to the interior of the case with the reservoir filled with my custom shade of Mayhem's Pastel Green. The downside is that the front of the case would look a lot more plain.
> So what say you OCN?


option 3 which is what I did in mine, push it back a bit and throw the bay covers on. EDIT: read your whole post, go for the clear, I bet that acetal white's gonna be just off-white enough to make you mad you got it.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> Not much to look at, just an in-your-face of my current rig.


The angle had me freakin' out at first lol.


----------



## Michalius

I think I figured it out.

Going with the frosted acrylic bay res, a 90 degree bitspower rotary (white) fitting with a male coupler on the outlet which will be attached to the inlet of the D5 top. The rotary fitting will let me orient the D5 so the outlet is facing right at my CPU.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Do waterblocks work on the Diamond 7970 reference model card? I didn't find it listed in the compatibility list for the Alphacool block.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Diamond is reference therefor it works with reference blocks. Are you looking at the new vrm cooled Alphacool block?
> 
> Woo, just got most of everything back together. Look ma, added a new rad.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, here are two diamond cards, the top two with ref ek blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *oh no! 1 upped! Guess I need to build a 2nd rad stand lol.*
Click to expand...

I'll be waiting.









It just dropped my delta by a good clip, almost 10c... although re-routing the loop putting the 480 before the cpu helped too I'm sure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I dont want to sound like a stuck record,but can you please spoiler quote quoted pics over 1 pic.
Thanks.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I think I figured it out.
> Going with the frosted acrylic bay res, a 90 degree bitspower rotary (white) fitting with a male coupler on the outlet which will be attached to the inlet of the D5 top. The rotary fitting will let me orient the D5 so the outlet is facing right at my CPU.


Here's a pic for my plan. Only downside to this that I can see is possible vibrations being sent to the reservoir, which then transfer to the case. As I'm already using the XSPC D5 Black Delrin bay, I'm not too worried about this.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont want to sound like a stuck record,but can you please spoiler quote quoted pics over 1 pic.
> Thanks.


Qft,

I approve of this









This member is managing this thread. Please be courteous and fallow this simple request. Its not just for him, but for the rest of us who use this thread. Its pointless to repeat images unless you have a specific question about it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Havent quite finished this yet, but had to get my 8350 up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean...
Click to expand...

I see whut you did there B. Nobody wants to see that fool so he got replaced by his successor now. Why wait 4 more years lets get the revolution started now.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Here's a pic for my plan. Only downside to this that I can see is possible vibrations being sent to the reservoir, which then transfer to the case. As I'm already using the XSPC D5 Black Delrin bay, I'm not too worried about this.


Where will the pump sit on? the measurement for your res-pump plan matches for the pump to sit on the floor of your 5.25 bay?


----------



## kyismaster

so....


testing my first ever WC loop test rig for the first time. lol, waiting for my duralene to come in so i can use my compressions... so bare with me.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Where will the pump sit on? the measurement for your res-pump plan matches for the pump to sit on the floor of your 5.25 bay?


It'll be attached via the 90 degree fitting as well as tension from the tube to the CPU. So, no attachment to the case itself other than through other parts.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> It'll be attached via the 90 degree fitting as well as tension from the tube to the CPU. So, no attachment to the case itself other than through other parts.


Have you considered fitting a tidy pump top to make a feature of it, and fitting it on the floor between psu and front rad? This would give you more freedom of space compared to making use of the bay area.


----------



## CircuitFreak

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> So, I'm just not happy with my current reservoir situation. I love the D5 bay res itself, but I just can't get the front paint to match my case. Looking to switch it up with one of two choices. I'm not interested in any other choice, so I'm looking for constructive help on deciding between one of the two.
> Case front currently:






Michalius, Love the colors.

You may never get the right shade of white unless you spray the bay res cover plate and the front panel so as I see it you have two options.

1. Try to find a green close to what you are using and put a simple border on the bay res to break up the white next to each other so you don't have them right next to each other and it may not be so obvious.

2. Sink the bay res back and make a custom plate that covers all the drive bays.


----------



## Nuzart

I've just finished my build. (besides making the cables neat)


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> For those of you who build custom in America, how do you get clients?


for me it was 100% by word of mouth... i still dont have a website, fb for it, or anything... i built a couple of comps for some friends and started to get better... i then had a guy ask me to help him a full WC P4 build with heat cores... did that build almost 100% myself and my OCD made sure it looked epic... from there one of that guys friends offered to pay me to build exactly what i had for his friend, and it just took off from there







... maybe ill start posting client builds on here, but im not sure... they are usually prity fast builds since most of my clients order all the parts in one go

EDIT:and i want that test bench so bad... but i have already splurged too much recently as i will be getting a full WCed skulltrail setup ontop of the build i will be starting shortly in an MH10







... maybe in a little bit i will get that bench, especially since i kinda need one anyways

also, how hard is it to get the angels and lengths correct when using copper tubing? since i will be hard lining my new build with acrylic tube, i think it may be fun to do teh skull trail in copper







... also, what is this pressure build up in crystal link builds that was being talked about? all teh fittings reduce flow a bit, but i have never heard of massive pressure build up (and i have done a few acrylic tube builds)









EDIT2: its been less then 24 hours since i posted here and i had to read 10 pages to catch up to what was going on









EDIT3:
@lazy bear
לא, כי גם אני יכול לכתוב בעברית
^that says, "no, because i can also write in hebrew"


----------



## Yukss

my rig









360 rad on top btw


----------



## hammerforged

I actually really like that mobo block. Very clean and well done.


----------



## eskamobob1

looking good ^









and any anyone recommend me a nice XL-ATX tech station that will let me have at least a 360 rad and isnt $300+?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> looking good ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and any anyone recommend me a nice XL-ATX tech station that will let me have at least a 360 rad and isnt $300+?


Contact dwood. He makes custom test benches. They can hold up to dual 420mm radiators and are all well under $200. I got my 'Roids bench for around $150.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> looking good ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and any anyone recommend me a nice XL-ATX tech station that will let me have at least a 360 rad and isnt $300+?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1293430/tript-custom-test-benches-officially-for-sale/0_20



Edit: What superericla said ha...


----------



## superericla

^I have that same EVGA x79 FTW motherboard. I should definitely get that water block... Overclocking has been pretty great with it using the dual 8-pin connectors.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> ^I have that same EVGA x79 FTW motherboard. I should definitely get that water block... Overclocking has been pretty great with it using the dual 8-pin connectors.


99$ usd on amazon XD
my oc is stable, and i think that waterccoling the motherboard is a + to achieved it, and i need and advise, my current corsair hx 850w only has one 8-pin cpu power connector, i had tried 5ghz but is imposible, i think is due the fact that i need the extra power for it, what can i do about it


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> my oc is stable, and i think that waterccoling the motherboard is a + to achieved it, and i need and advise, my current corsair hx 850w only has one 8-pin cpu power connector, i had tried 5ghz but is imposible, i think is due the fact that i need the extra power for it, what can i do about it


You could probably get an adapter to convert one of your other cables to an 8-pin. Also, make sure you have turbo mode enabled in the bios, without that you can't use the multiplier to overclock.


----------



## Yukss

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> You could probably get an adapter to convert one of your other cables to an 8-pin. Also, make sure you have turbo mode enabled in the bios, without that you can't use the multiplier to overclock.


turbo mode is enable, current oc 24/7 is 4,75ghz vcore 1.35v


----------



## superericla

What voltage have you tried when overclocking to 5GHz?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> 99$ usd on amazon XD
> my oc is stable, and i think that waterccoling the motherboard is a + to achieved it, and i need and advise, my current corsair hx 850w only has one 8-pin cpu power connector, i had tried 5ghz but is imposible, i think is due the fact that i need the extra power for it, what can i do about it


Your HX850 should have two 8-pin EPS12V connectors, at least mine did about 3 years back. And it's not needed unless you're doing much higher overclocking (~6GHz) with insane volts. A single 8-pin EPS12V cable can supply up to 300W and I highly doubt your CPU would be sucking that much juice even at 5GHz.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Your HX850 should have two 8-pin EPS12V connectors, at least mine did about 3 years back. And it's not needed unless you're doing much higher overclocking (~6GHz) with insane volts. A single 8-pin EPS12V cable can supply up to 300W and I highly doubt your CPU would be sucking that much juice even at 5GHz.


For that motherboard it's recommended for anything over 5.2GHz, so it shouldn't be an issue at 5GHz, but it may help stabilize voltage a bit more. Voltage and vdroop percentage would help determine the issue though.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1293430/tript-custom-test-benches-officially-for-sale/0_20
> 
> Edit: What superericla said ha...


Ty for the recommendation... I think ima order one in a few days







... +rep... Can't believe I hadn't seen these before yet


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Would *this* block work with reference model AMD 7970?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Would *this* block work with reference model AMD 7970?
> Jeffinslaw


Looks like that's a "V2" or "Version 2" of a reference or AIC design.

This is the original reference design:



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=34522


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like that's a "V2" or "Version 2" of a reference or AIC design.
> This is the original reference design:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=34522


Yah, I've seen that one but I noticed that water doesn't flow over the VRMs.

So does that mean it would work?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Yah, I've seen that one but I noticed that water doesn't flow over the VRMs.
> So does that mean it would work?
> Jeffinslaw


most blocks just have the base extend to the vrm. The vrm can tolerate high temps and even without flow over them, the base extension acts as a heat exchanger to the the block. My 580s blocks are like that too.

use the coolingconfigurator.com to find out if you need v1 or v2 if you're not sure.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> most blocks just have the base extend to the vrm. The vrm can tolerate high temps and even without flow over them, the base extension acts as a heat exchanger to the the block. My 580s blocks are like that too.
> use the coolingconfigurator.com to find out if you need v1 or v2 if you're not sure.


Diamond isn't listed







Plus, that looks like it is for EK stuff? How would that help me if the block I'm looking at is Alphacool?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Its used as a general reference. If you know your gpu is compatible w/ their blocks, then its true (most of the time) for other blocks.


----------



## relent107

Phoenix

Here's a nice looking build that I did for a client, took about 30-40 hours of work, and booted flawlessly with absolutely no hic-ups or complications.

Specs:

Asus Maximus V formula 1155

Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3570k 3.4ghz pushed to 4.6ghz

G-Skill 8GB 2133Mhz

Sapphire HD6950 2GB flashed to 6970 Bios

120GB OCZ Vertex 4 Solid State Drive

Hitachi 2TB 7200RPM 64MB

Bluray drive/DVD burner combo drive

Cougar 1000w modular 80 plus bronze power supply

Full liquid cooling loop using the Raystorm block and the Swiftech 955

NZXT Phantom Full Tower Case with separately ordered window panel

Mods:

16.4 Feet of LED strip lighting inside the case

Custom painted fans, grills and CD drive locks

Unsoldiered all the blue LEDs and replaced them with red, including the Raystorm LEDs

Custom black and red sleeved braided cabling on the 24 Pin, EPS 8 Pin, and both PCIe 6 Pins


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> For that motherboard it's recommended for anything over 5.2GHz, so it shouldn't be an issue at 5GHz, but it may help stabilize voltage a bit more. Voltage and vdroop percentage would help determine the issue though.


i have vdroop disable, what percentage do you use?


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Havent quite finished this yet, but had to get my 8350 up and running


That looks great! I immediately went to your build log to see which case you used, and it was a scratch build!







Awesome.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Would *this* block work with reference model AMD 7970?
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like that's a "V2" or "Version 2" of a reference or AIC design.
> This is the original reference design:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=34522
Click to expand...

sorry to disappoint, but according to *this* (its in the product page both at PPCS and aplhacool's website) the V2 is only for 7950 reference design and wouldn't work with a 7970 (nor 7950 with 7970 pcb)

i was disappointed at first but on second thought the V1 looks better overall. (and its less restrictive)


----------



## kyismaster

Hi guys, I think today im gonna be modding my prodigy so that it can accept a dual bay res/pump


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> So, I'm just not happy with my current reservoir situation. I love the D5 bay res itself, but I just can't get the front paint to match my case. Looking to switch it up with one of two choices. I'm not interested in any other choice, so I'm looking for constructive help on deciding between one of the two.
> Case front currently:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My hidden area that will need to be modified (fittings/tubing changed here, but routing is exactly the same):
> 
> Option 1:
> EK CSQ Dual Bay Reservoir, separate D5 TOP
> 1a:
> 
> 1b:
> 
> Can't decide on which would be the option, as I am again worried about the white not matching up. If it does, I think it would be the obvious choice. Otherwise, having the exterior of my case be able to continue with that green theme outside of just the BitFenix logo would be nice. I like the idea of continuing with the lit up frosted acrylic here too with the green behind it. I'm really digging the look. The pain would be that this means I would need to have my D5 mounted next to this, and I don't think I'll be able to keep it concealed and tidy looking.
> Option 2:
> EK D5 X-Res 140
> 
> 
> 
> This would actually help me clean up the tubing as I would need fewer angle adapters. Mounted right on the outside of my 5.25" bay, it would also add a nice little bit of bling to the interior of the case with the reservoir filled with my custom shade of Mayhem's Pastel Green. The downside is that the front of the case would look a lot more plain.
> So what say you OCN?


Not sure how you feel about this, but thought I would throw it out there. What about keeping that bay res and having DWood make you a simple frame faceplate. He could do it in black to match the trim of your case, but thin enough not to be overwhelming or distracting from the white. Plus it would show off more of that awesome Mayhem's pastel green fluid in the front! Only cost you $10-15 so if you didnt like...no worries, just back to your other solutions.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> so....
> 
> testing my first ever WC loop test rig for the first time. lol, waiting for my duralene to come in so i can use my compressions... so bare with me.


Awww, I am so excited for you!!!! It's always great to welcome a new convert...addict....member to the great WC fold! Congrats!!








(We got you now sucker! Please leave all your valuables and financial statements with the WC cashier before leaving.







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *relent107*
> 
> Phoenix
> Here's a nice looking build that I did for a client, took about 30-40 hours of work, and booted flawlessly with absolutely no hic-ups or complications.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Asus Maximus V formula 1155
> Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3570k 3.4ghz pushed to 4.6ghz
> G-Skill 8GB 2133Mhz
> Sapphire HD6950 2GB flashed to 6970 Bios
> 120GB OCZ Vertex 4 Solid State Drive
> Hitachi 2TB 7200RPM 64MB
> Bluray drive/DVD burner combo drive
> Cougar 1000w modular 80 plus bronze power supply
> Full liquid cooling loop using the Raystorm block and the Swiftech 955
> NZXT Phantom Full Tower Case with separately ordered window panel
> Mods:
> 16.4 Feet of LED strip lighting inside the case
> Custom painted fans, grills and CD drive locks
> Unsoldiered all the blue LEDs and replaced them with red, including the Raystorm LEDs
> Custom black and red sleeved braided cabling on the 24 Pin, EPS 8 Pin, and both PCIe 6 Pins


WoW! I see RED!








Seriously nice build!


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Diamond isn't listed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus, that looks like it is for EK stuff? How would that help me if the block I'm looking at is Alphacool?
> Jeffinslaw


That's probably becaus EK is located in Europe (slovakia ?) and Diamond doesn't sell anything here. I hadn't even heard of them to be honest.

@relent107:
That's odd, the client wanted a watercooled CPU and mobo (those are even more expensive than GPU blocks) but left the GPU on air ?
Otherwise it looks good (if you're into coloured LEDs, that is.). I doubt you even needed to go through the hastle of painting the fans (those are painted, right ?), the LEDs wouldn't give you a chance to see whether it's red, black or white.

I've got to stop bashing coloured LEDs and CSQ....

Spent yesterday afternoon reviving an old AM2+ rig (that boards actually way better than the OEM one in my rig







). Figured I could practice overclocking on it for when I get a decent board (when Haswell's out). I might even try to borrow a 960T and see how that works out. I hate AMD but you've got to respect that a very old dual core can be upgraded to a quite recent and decent CPU.

Spent the morning on my own rig, taking the Noctuas off my bottom rad and installing the Apache (love them), doing a couple ghetto mods. Don't have any time to post pictures now and I guess the two/three ghetto mods aren't really about watercooling anyway (well one is kind of but the two other definitely have nothing to do with water cooling).

EDIT: installed windows 8 two days ago, thought I was going to through my computer through the window (as if, the ***** weighs a ton). After spending a couple hours on it, setting everything up, getting my software back. It turns out I prefer it windows 7. What does this have to do with watercooling ? Well, either my room was 5 to 15°C hotter yesterday evening or windows 8 displays higher temps than 7. Which makes me wonder which's right. I had 3-5° more than before (almost reached 60° ><). Oh, no support of gadgets anymore so that means no more Disk activity, GPU activity/Temps, CPU activity on your desk.... hopefully people will make some for "metro".


----------



## itz.clint

Hey everyone, just thought I would add my rig to the club







Am currently in the process of upgrading my parts atm and sleeving my hx 1000w, will post up more when I am done.
These are the new parts I have currently:
EK-Multioption RES X2 - 250 Advanced
(Second) XSPC RX360 Radiator
Koolance PMP-450S Pump
PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing UV Blue 1/2ID 3/4OD 10ft Retail
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Compression Fittings/ Stop Fittings

Parts to go still:
Ek Supremacy Cpu Waterblock
Ek SLI Dual Serial Bridge
2 x Ek Geforce Links
2x GTX FC Waterblocks
2x GTX FC Backplates

Just running XSPC Raystorm Cpu Waterblock, RX360, M4E Full Chipset block with Drivebay res/pump for time being.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> i have vdroop disable, what percentage do you use?


I use 25%


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I use 25%


ill do some test


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *relent107*
> 
> Phoenix
> Here's a nice looking build that I did for a client, took about 30-40 hours of work, and booted flawlessly with absolutely no hic-ups or complications.
> Specs:
> Asus Maximus V formula 1155
> Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3570k 3.4ghz pushed to 4.6ghz
> G-Skill 8GB 2133Mhz
> Sapphire HD6950 2GB flashed to 6970 Bios
> 120GB OCZ Vertex 4 Solid State Drive
> Hitachi 2TB 7200RPM 64MB
> Bluray drive/DVD burner combo drive
> Cougar 1000w modular 80 plus bronze power supply
> Full liquid cooling loop using the Raystorm block and the Swiftech 955
> NZXT Phantom Full Tower Case with separately ordered window panel
> Mods:
> 16.4 Feet of LED strip lighting inside the case
> Custom painted fans, grills and CD drive locks
> Unsoldiered all the blue LEDs and replaced them with red, including the Raystorm LEDs
> Custom black and red sleeved braided cabling on the 24 Pin, EPS 8 Pin, and both PCIe 6 Pins
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice build...i always like to see my fellow phantoms
WC'd... although imo you or your customer should have
placed the optical drive one down and placed a 360 rad in
there..but all looks good still..








take a look at my build if you have time..i placed a 360 in there
but had to make my own mounting brackets..
took the HDD rack off bottom and placed a 140 rad there.
could you take a pic or 2 without all the red led's on..


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> nice build...i always like to see my fellow phantoms
> WC'd... although imo you or your customer should have
> placed the optical drive one down and placed a 360 rad in
> there..but all looks good still..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> take a look at my build if you have time..i placed a 360 in there
> but had to make my own mounting brackets..
> took the HDD rack off bottom and placed a 140 rad there.
> could you take a pic or 2 without all the red led's on..










hadn't even noticed it was a Phantom.
You should put that in the Phantom Club's thread. It's been pretty empty lately







.

(I probably didn't notice because it still has both 3.5" cages







)
that and because of the coloured LEDs

@Lucky:
For everybody's sake please quote a single picture. I know everybody keeps saying this but people don't seem to remember as they keep quoting loads of pics. So I'm going to join the "whiners" (and they're right to whine) and whine everytime somebody does that.
EDIT: was there a spoiler there before ? I'd feel pretty stupid if it was there when I complained.

@relent107:

Would you mind switching those LEDs off (or unplugging them) and then taking a couple more pics so we can actually see the beauty of the result of your hardwork ?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *relent107*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> @relent107:
> That's odd, the client wanted a watercooled CPU and mobo (those are even more expensive than GPU blocks) but left the GPU on air ?
> Otherwise it looks good (if you're into coloured LEDs, that is.). I doubt you even needed to go through the hastle of painting the fans (those are painted, right ?), the LEDs wouldn't give you a chance to see whether it's red, black or white.


That's the MVF's stock block. Its capable of air or water.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> That's the MVF's stock block. Its capable of air or water.


Didn't know what it was called but realized what it was about 5 minutes after posting about it. It's still odd to go for a high end mother board (I'm assuming the model with that waterblock/heatsink costs a lot) and not watercool the GPU. A 240mm rad would easily fit in the bottom. Especially since the 6950 are CSQ free and could have proper clear blocks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *relent107*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> @relent107:
> That's odd, the client wanted a watercooled CPU and mobo (those are even more expensive than GPU blocks) but left the GPU on air ?
> Otherwise it looks good (if you're into coloured LEDs, that is.). I doubt you even needed to go through the hastle of painting the fans (those are painted, right ?), the LEDs wouldn't give you a chance to see whether it's red, black or white.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's the MVF's stock block. Its capable of air or water.
Click to expand...

I really like that setup too. Only wish they'd just put a threaded seat in the block and threaded thumb knobs into the seats to allow the owner to use whatever size Compression fittings that struck their fancy. Would have been cheaper. Apparently EK worked with ASUS to build that block.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Good idea Asus. Bad execution. :/


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Not sure how you feel about this, but thought I would throw it out there. What about keeping that bay res and having DWood make you a simple frame faceplate. He could do it in black to match the trim of your case, but thin enough not to be overwhelming or distracting from the white. Plus it would show off more of that awesome Mayhem's pastel green fluid in the front! Only cost you $10-15 so if you didnt like...no worries, just back to your other solutions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awww, I am so excited for you!!!! It's always great to welcome a new convert...addict....member to the great WC fold! Congrats!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (We got you now sucker! Please leave all your valuables and financial statements with the WC cashier before leaving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> WoW! I see RED!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously nice build!


thanks guys









guess WC is a gateway drug to phase cooling, see you guys there! haha


----------



## LuckyNumber13

I always use spoilers..








and yes Steelkevin it was there when you complained..lol..
you prob. just clicked it and didn't realize it at the time..
all is good...

here is a few pics of my fill port strategy..
going today to buy materials i need for an addition i'm doing
plus adding my fill port to my comp today hopefully
i'm using a BP coupler so that i may have the option of
removing the entire top of the case still while still having
the fill port perm. installed
although i may not have a comp. fitting leading to
res. might just use extenders..we'll see.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I always use spoilers..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and yes Steelkevin it was there when you complained..lol..
> you prob. just clicked it and didn't realize it at the time..
> all is good...
> 
> here is a few pics of my fill port strategy..
> going today to buy materials i need for an addition i'm doing
> plus adding my fill port to my comp today hopefully
> i'm using a BP coupler so that i may have the option of
> removing the entire top of the case still while still having
> the fill port perm. installed
> although i may not have a comp. fitting leading to
> res. might just use extenders..we'll see.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


For all of that I'd just use a barb and some tubing to fill the loop. You really don't need a fill line as much as you need a drain line.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I always use spoilers..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and yes Steelkevin it was there when you complained..lol..
> you prob. just clicked it and didn't realize it at the time..
> all is good...
> 
> here is a few pics of my fill port strategy..
> going today to buy materials i need for an addition i'm doing
> plus adding my fill port to my comp today hopefully
> i'm using a BP coupler so that i may have the option of
> removing the entire top of the case still while still having
> the fill port perm. installed
> although i may not have a comp. fitting leading to
> res. might just use extenders..we'll see.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For all of that I'd just use a barb and some tubing to fill the loop. You really don't need a fill line as much as you need a drain line.
Click to expand...

I will always recommend both. Good thing my case already had a fillport area built in. It's just a matter of installing the bloody thing around the other tubes at that end. Kinda wish I went with a Xflow Rad instead of the standard body. Oh well I just have to make sure to install the fillport first and then install the Radiator. Right now I just have an open tube sticking out the top of the case.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## LuckyNumber13

i had no drain in my first build (huge mistake)..
and filling my res. in my first build was a pain
as i did not plan that aspect of it out that good at the time.
(first comp i ever built let alone a wc'd one)
so i'm sort of jaded now and want no hassles in the future
when i'm draining or filling loop..so i am going all out..lol.
i have all fittings i need for drain also..
but gotta plan that out a bit more so gravity
is doing most of the work..


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I will always recommend both. Good thing my case already had a fillport area built in. It's just a matter of installing the bloody thing around the other tubes at that end. Kinda wish I went with a Xflow Rad instead of the standard body. Oh well I just have to make sure to install the fillport first and then install the Radiator. Right now I just have an open tube sticking out the top of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


we got you the first time.


----------



## steelkevin

@ceadderman:

Pass that Joint. Looks like really fine stuff









I reloaded the page twice and tried IE. I really thought my computer was messing with me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> i had no drain in my first build (huge mistake)..
> and filling my res. in my first build was a pain
> as i did not plan that aspect of it out that good at the time.
> (first comp i ever built let alone a wc'd one)
> so i'm sort of jaded now and want no hassles in the future
> when i'm draining or filling loop..so i am going all out..lol.
> i have all fittings i need for drain also..
> but gotta plan that out a bit more so gravity
> is doing most of the work..


I hear you.
if I had one it'd make it all much easier...


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> For all of that I'd just use a barb and some tubing to fill the loop. You really don't need a fill line as much as you need a drain line.


I agree... Fill ports are no big deal tbh... Drain pots are the ones that are crazy helpful








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess WC is a gateway drug to phase cooling, see you guys there! haha


Not sure what ur talking about... LHe was my gateway into WC


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I will always recommend both. Good thing my case already had a fillport area built in. It's just a matter of installing the bloody thing around the other tubes at that end. Kinda wish I went with a Xflow Rad instead of the standard body. Oh well I just have to make sure to install the fillport first and then install the Radiator. Right now I just have an open tube sticking out the top of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


I had a DD fill port in the hole you're talking about and it sucked lol. I'd rather just pull out the two 5.25 blanks and fill it with a turkey baster lol.








Climbin that team rank.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Redid the loop last week.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Seriously nice build and pics


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> sorry to disappoint, but according to *this* (its in the product page both at PPCS and aplhacool's website) the V2 is only for 7950 reference design and wouldn't work with a 7970 (nor 7950 with 7970 pcb)
> i was disappointed at first but on second thought the V1 looks better overall. (and its less restrictive)


Actually the V2 one is the only alphacool block that fits the MSI tf3 both version 1 & 2. Version 2 of the MSI does use the 7970 PCB with the 8 & 6 pin power plugs.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Seriously nice build and pics


Thanks man!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Actually the V2 one is the only alphacool block that fits the MSI tf3 both version 1 & 2. Version 2 of the MSI does use the 7970 PCB with the 8 & 6 pin power plugs.


Which is still confusing because according to that chart everything from V1 should be also listed in with V2. I guess the best answer would be to contact Alphacool directly.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Which is still confusing because according to that chart everything from V1 should be also listed in with V2. I guess the best answer would be to contact Alphacool directly.


Yeah your right. I have a MSI tf3 coming on monday and the V2 of the alphacool block so Ill definitely see if it comes as the model with the 7970 PCB and see how it all fits together.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Redid the loop last week.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What camera do you use?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I will always recommend both. Good thing my case already had a fillport area built in. It's just a matter of installing the bloody thing around the other tubes at that end. Kinda wish I went with a Xflow Rad instead of the standard body. Oh well I just have to make sure to install the fillport first and then install the Radiator. Right now I just have an open tube sticking out the top of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we got you the first time.
Click to expand...

Not sure I really repeated myself. But okay







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I will always recommend both. Good thing my case already had a fillport area built in. It's just a matter of installing the bloody thing around the other tubes at that end. Kinda wish I went with a Xflow Rad instead of the standard body. Oh well I just have to make sure to install the fillport first and then install the Radiator. Right now I just have an open tube sticking out the top of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a DD fill port in the hole you're talking about and it sucked lol. I'd rather just pull out the two 5.25 blanks and fill it with a turkey baster lol.
Click to expand...

Did you just have the Fillport or the FP Res? I had to sell the DD FP Res cause there would have been no room to get around the FC and ODD. to mount to the Reservoir. Would have liked to have it but I'm glad I don't cause I have my blanks intact so It would have been difficult to see without looking inside the case and with all the tubing there that would have been impossible.









~Ceadder


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> What camera do you use?


Nikon D90.
Should be able to produce better shots


----------



## jokrik

quick question, does anyone ever tried to put plug with 3mm/5mm led on EK reservoir?
was planning to use the led plug at the bottom of the res, but afraid that the glow won't reach the whole reservoir


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I really like that setup too. Only wish they'd just put a threaded seat in the block and threaded thumb knobs into the seats to allow the owner to use whatever size Compression fittings that struck their fancy. Would have been cheaper. Apparently EK worked with ASUS to build that block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If EK worked with them to build this heatsink, then there's your square reason they put barbs on it. G1/4" ports would have hindered sales of the EK northbridge blocks they have available. I believe they worked the fixed barbs into the deal with ASUS. Especially considering it's not an overly expensive motherboard @$280.


----------



## Arm3nian

Well, I got my CL ultra, and applying was utter hell. The installation of the actual paste was easy I think. Installing a waterblock with tubing already on it to a gpu/cpu while in the case is impossible. I managed to get the gpu on the water block somehow, after rubbing the paste everywhere. Next was the cpu, after I stuck the block on I realized the backplate fell off since no one was smart enough to create a decent mounting mechanism for a backplate over the last 10 years. Anyway, I got it on, and realized a leak on the bottom rad. Basically a gallon of water which had toxic biocide was absorbed onto my bed sheets. I got the fitting back on, refilled and booted back up. CPU was idling at 70c at stock 3500mhz, with 1 voltage, gpu was idling at 50c. This is with an ambient of about 60 faren.

My bay res is pissing me off so I will get a pump top, with an internal res, my pump is the mcp655 any recommendations? I also hate my tubing, slips off with fittings tightened a lot, and it fogged in about 5 seconds of running water through it, and the UV blue does not actually work. I am also out of CL ultra which cost 15 bucks and the tube was not even half way filled. Applied it to a cpu die, the cpu ihs, 2 gpu cores and the small gpu die and it is gone, mx-4 which I used 50 times is still half full, talk about value.

So basically my attempt to apply new paste was a disaster which destroyed my loop. As you can tell I am quite mad, because I will be without a computer for my weekend plus monday, and probably until I get money to order my new supplies.


----------



## Phelan

Ok guys, so I have a question. I'm about to be overhauling my rig some more, namely because I'm replacing my 6950 with a 7970. I'm going to fix my bay shroud also, but here's my question. What kind of low-budget changes should I make? I.E. Tubing routing, angle fittings, color changes, etc. The backplate on the 7970 is white also, so keep that in mind. I'm also going to move the rads closer together so I can fit fans on the outside of them for push/pull. Here's my rig for reference.
I was thinking of getting some red carbon fiber vinyl to recover the shroud in. What do you guys think?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> quick question, does anyone ever tried to put plug with 3mm/5mm led on EK reservoir?
> was planning to use the led plug at the bottom of the res, but afraid that the glow won't reach the whole reservoir


Its really hard to light the whole res. Especially a 250. Idk if I'm just using the wrong LEDs or not putting enough V through them. I've had minimal luck so far.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Ok guys, so I have a question. I'm about to be overhauling my rig some more, namely because I'm replacing my 6950 with a 7970. I'm going to fix my bay shroud also, but here's my question. What kind of low-budget changes should I make? I.E. Tubing routing, angle fittings, color changes, etc. The backplate on the 7970 is white also, so keep that in mind. I'm also going to move the rads closer together so I can fit fans on the outside of them for push/pull. Here's my rig for reference.
> I was thinking of getting some red carbon fiber vinyl to recover the shroud in. What do you guys think?


Is it possible to swap the tubing position so that they don't cross each other?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Ok guys, so I have a question. I'm about to be overhauling my rig some more, namely because I'm replacing my 6950 with a 7970. I'm going to fix my bay shroud also, but here's my question. What kind of low-budget changes should I make? I.E. Tubing routing, angle fittings, color changes, etc. The backplate on the 7970 is white also, so keep that in mind. I'm also going to move the rads closer together so I can fit fans on the outside of them for push/pull. Here's my rig for reference.
> I was thinking of getting some red carbon fiber vinyl to recover the shroud in. What do you guys think?


If the back plate is white I think changing the fittings to red and the tubing to white (or use Mayhems Pastel White) would look good.


----------



## kyismaster

Oh!

I should announce that I got some sponsorship on some watercooling / cooling

Does anyone know how to get sponsorship for cases? lol


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Oh!
> I should announce that I got some sponsorship on some watercooling / cooling
> Does anyone know how to get sponsorship for cases? lol


I would try whatever you did for water gear.







Congrats on the sponsor. Something we all would love!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I really like that setup too. Only wish they'd just put a threaded seat in the block and threaded thumb knobs into the seats to allow the owner to use whatever size Compression fittings that struck their fancy. Would have been cheaper. Apparently EK worked with ASUS to build that block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If EK worked with them to build this heatsink, then there's your square reason they put barbs on it. G1/4" ports would have hindered sales of the EK northbridge blocks they have available. I believe they worked the fixed barbs into the deal with ASUS. Especially considering it's not an overly expensive motherboard @$280.
Click to expand...

Oh I figure that's what they did too and why it was done that way. But I think that Manufacturer has the right to final say on the blocks. I'm wondering if I should get one when I'm ready to jump on the Intel wagon. Also wondering if I do grab one if I should remove the barbs and tap the Heat Sink for G1/4 thread to allow for 1/2" x 3/4" comps. I sure don't feel like spending extra money on a block when there is a perfectly good one on the Board if not a little flawed in that regard. Hell I could live with em if I have to get two smaller comps for the CPU and the Pump out but I'm not keen on adding a restriction to my loop to keep the same size that I'm running, nor am I keen on running 3/8" ID tubing either.

Shouldn't be too hard to cut the barbs down and have them threaded to work with what I'm already running I wouldn't think. I've threaded much more difficult things over the years.









~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I would try whatever you did for water gear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the sponsor. Something we all would love!


Spend lots of money? XD Already did, so I should be guaranteed a case then?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh I figure that's what they did too and why it was done that way. But I think that Manufacturer has the right to final say on the blocks. I'm wondering if I should get one when I'm ready to jump on the Intel wagon. Also wondering if I do grab one if I should remove the barbs and tap the Heat Sink for G1/4 thread to allow for 1/2" x 3/4" comps. I sure don't feel like spending extra money on a block when there is a perfectly good one on the Board if not a little flawed in that regard. Hell I could live with em if I have to get two smaller comps for the CPU and the Pump out but I'm not keen on adding a restriction to my loop to keep the same size that I'm running, nor am I keen on running 3/8" ID tubing either.
> Shouldn't be too hard to cut the barbs down and have them threaded to work with what I'm already running I wouldn't think. I've threaded much more difficult things over the years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I believe I saw someone post about there not being enough material to drill and tap it for G1/4".


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Its really hard to light the whole res. Especially a 250. Idk if I'm just using the wrong LEDs or not putting enough V through them. I've had minimal luck so far.


Auch, guess couldnt do anything about it







thx for the info +rep


----------



## kyismaster

this is the way i've noticed how it works,

You invest in a company,

The company turns and sponsors you because they figure you are either a good sales motive
or you seem like someone who will come back and make another purchase in the future.









which, in all, hells yes I will be making another purchase.

Can't really play a pity card in this situation,

Possibly the only other way you can get one is that if you are a person of good/high reputation,
those people are more likely to be the ones that get sponsorships and never have to make a purchase. lol.
(( for example tomshardware / maximumpc ))

anyways im uploading my watercooling package unboxing *right now.*









Next week I should have my Quickfire TK world premier and possibly my HX unboxing.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Is it possible to swap the tubing position so that they don't cross each other?


Possibly, though I'd have to turn the CPU block upside down, since the pump is on it, so the left side is the INLET.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If the back plate is white I think changing the fittings to red and the tubing to white (or use Mayhems Pastel White) would look good.


I was thinking that as well, though I can't afford $60 just for new fittings. I might paint these though...


----------



## kyismaster

So I don't look like a dumbo these two go together right?

http://www.petrastechshop.com/3id5odmagepu.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14927/ex-tub-1104/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_38ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Black_Chrome_FCC-3858-6P-BC.html?tl=g30c569s1762&id=nMpNaXhm


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> So I don't look like a dumbo these two go together right?
> http://www.petrastechshop.com/3id5odmagepu.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14927/ex-tub-1104/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_38ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Black_Chrome_FCC-3858-6P-BC.html?tl=g30c569s1762&id=nMpNaXhm


yes


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> yes


Ok, good!

Because if it came down to review day, and It didn't fit, that would have been terrible lol.


----------



## Fonne

Is there any flow sensors that can work as a "stand alone" unit - So I dont need to buy a aquacomputer aquaero that must of them uses.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Auch, guess couldnt do anything about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx for the info +rep


Actually you can-you give up far too easily.

Most acrylic plugs that are used to place leds inside reservoirs suffer from lack of depth, ergo no viable way of delivering light further into the reservoir.(pic shows the difference between the two types of plug)



http://lund-tech.com/?Products:Lighting_module

Try these, they are very good and light up the whole reservoir-i have two of them in a couple of rigs in my EK multi option reservoirs and they do the job very nicely.

They are made by Jon Lund, of Lund reservoirs fame, you can get them here: \
\http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/index.php?action=search&keyword=Lighting+module&x=4&y=15

or contact Jon himself -he will post you a couple(for a fee ofc) if you ask him :[email protected]

Alphacool have also started copying them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Get a frosted acrylic tube to run down the middle of your res w/ an LED at either end.. It will spread the light out we'll... The reason the LED wholes on clear reses don't work is because it the way clear substances transfer light... The light will mainly appear at the joints of the res instead of lighting up the liquid


That would work, but that's an unnecessary outlay of capital -have a look at the Lund or Alphacool plugs, they are a huge difference to the other plugs out there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Am I the only one that hates the look of those anti-kink coils???? No offense Lazy Bear, great rig, just my personal opinion....


Agreed, AKCs detract from the look for me-angled fittings, and a re think of routing is the better solution


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh I figure that's what they did too and why it was done that way. But I think that Manufacturer has the right to final say on the blocks. I'm wondering if I should get one when I'm ready to jump on the Intel wagon. Also wondering if I do grab one if I should remove the barbs and tap the Heat Sink for G1/4 thread to allow for 1/2" x 3/4" comps. I sure don't feel like spending extra money on a block when there is a perfectly good one on the Board if not a little flawed in that regard. Hell I could live with em if I have to get two smaller comps for the CPU and the Pump out but I'm not keen on adding a restriction to my loop to keep the same size that I'm running, nor am I keen on running 3/8" ID tubing either.
> Shouldn't be too hard to cut the barbs down and have them threaded to work with what I'm already running I wouldn't think. I've threaded much more difficult things over the years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe I saw someone post about there not being enough material to drill and tap it for G1/4".
Click to expand...

I guess there are only two options left then if I don't want to be stuck with 3/8" fittings then.

First is buying a new FC thank you very much EK.









The other is by splicing up adapters using Comps/Barbs > Barrel adapter and 1/2" comps. I don't like the thought of knowingly adding a restriction but it's cheaper than buying CSQ caca imho. Not gonna spend $100+ and shipping for something that I wouldn't give a starving kid.









However, If I get one and find I can tap it, it's a done deal. Shouldn't void the warranty of the board so long as it's done correctly.









But it's as you said, if there isn't enough surface material to work with it's not happening.









I too hate AKC. But if they are done right they can look pretty cool. Someone here had a really nice AKC setup that I thought was reasonably cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

watercooling is such voodoo!

when something gets hotter, the plate gets colder! such magic. (( running on passive. ))


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Possibly, though I'd have to turn the CPU block upside down, since the pump is on it, so the left side is the INLET.


I would do that if I were you.
The Swiftech logo is hardly noticeable upside down.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> quick question, does anyone ever tried to put plug with 3mm/5mm led on EK reservoir?
> was planning to use the led plug at the bottom of the res, but afraid that the glow won't reach the whole reservoir


See what you think of this Phobya 250 res with blue leds at its bottom

http://www.overclock.net/t/1312023/build-log-merlin-water-cooled-r-atx-sm8-w-pedestal-z77x-ud5h/250#post_18566603


----------



## eskamobob1

Get a frosted acrylic tube to run down the middle of your res w/ an LED at either end.. It will spread the light out we'll... The reason the LED wholes on clear reses don't work is because it the way clear substances transfer light... The light will mainly appear at the joints of the res instead of lighting up the liquid


----------



## kyismaster

so.... tell me how I bought a res cap.... and it doesn't fit. LOL

at least I have another LED for my res now.


----------



## eskamobob1

Lo... Nice one







... And jc... Is two new WCed builds and a tech station too many builds at one time?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> See what you think of this Phobya 250 res with blue leds at its bottom
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1312023/build-log-merlin-water-cooled-r-atx-sm8-w-pedestal-z77x-ud5h/250#post_18566603


Looks great! Ill give it a try than

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Actually you can-you give up far too easily.
> Most acrylic plugs that are used to place leds inside reservoirs suffer from lack of depth, ergo no viable way of delivering light further into the reservoir.(pic shows the difference between the two types of plug)
> http://lund-tech.com/?Products:Lighting_module
> Try these, they are very good and light up the whole reservoir-i have two of them in a couple of rigs in my EK multi option reservoirs and they do the job very nicely.
> They are made by Jon Lund, of Lund reservoirs fame, you can get them here: \
> \http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/index.php?action=search&keyword=Lighting+module&x=4&y=15
> or contact Jon himself -he will post you a couple(for a fee ofc) if you ask him :[email protected]
> Alphacool have also started copying them.
> That would work, but that's an unnecessary outlay of capital -have a look at the Lund or Alphacool plugs, they are a huge difference to the other plugs out there.
> Agreed, AKCs detract from the look for me-angled fittings, and a re think of routing is the better solution


What has been my hurdle is that I am living in Asia and my options are limited. But seeing what Socketus said, Ill probably give it a try since its not such a big investment
not guts no glory







will post the result as soon as I can get it all together


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Looks great! Ill give it a try than
> What has been my hurdle is that I am living in Asia and my options are limited. But seeing what Socketus said, Ill probably give it a try since its not such a big investment
> not guts no glory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will post the result as soon as I can get it all together


korea has excellent stuff!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> korea has excellent stuff!


Indonesian here... lol
but luckily all other small components such as 3mm led, molex/fan/sata splitter I can get it custom build for as much as 1$ each. So much cheaper than buying those bitspower led stuff or other splitters
however all the watercooling stuff, we've some reseller here and marking it up by 20%-30% which is pain
tried once to buy straight from EK and PPCS, though i save a little bit ; the custom charge me 50% of tax which is a total disappointment


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Indonesian here... lol
> but luckily all other small components such as 3mm led, molex/fan/sata splitter I can get it custom build for as much as 1$ each. So much cheaper than buying those bitspower led stuff or other splitters
> however all the watercooling stuff, we've some reseller here and marking it up by 20%-30% which is pain
> tried once to buy straight from EK and PPCS, though i save a little bit ; the custom charge me 50% of tax which is a total disappointment


lol LED's cost like 10 cents here, but the connectors cost more + shipping


----------



## kyismaster

this might seem dumb but... How do I drain something like this? LOL


----------



## GoodInk

CM Seidon 120M





Here is my video review of it

http://www.overclock.net/t/1325959/cm-seidon-120m-review


----------



## kyismaster

well, I got the thing to drain but man! the suction on these bits are insane! Had to get a flat head just to pull them off.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Here is my review of the CM Seidon 120M


great review! thanks!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Careful about double post Kyismaster..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Here is my review of the CM Seidon 120M
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excellent Unboxing bro. Wish more unboxings were this well done.









Might get one of these for my Girl's system when I start in on it.









What TIM did they put in with it, you missed that but that's just a niggling little detail.









~Ceadder


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*


That has got to be your 3" added mod - are you ready to share MOAR PIX of it ???


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Careful about double post Kyismaster..


I try not to...


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm wondering if I should get one when I'm ready to jump on the Intel wagon.
> ~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm wondering if I should get one when I'm ready to jump on the Intel wagon.
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Shocking ain't it.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

While i appreciate everyones enthusiasm,this is a thread for Watercooling Rig pictures,if you didnt take the photo, ie,shop photos of new kit, review videos etc, dont post it.
If you have the kit and have taken photos to show us,cool beans,this what Bundy does to great effect...remember tho,these are his pictures which is why he gets to post them.
Obviously if the pic is an aid for assisting someone then thats fine.
If you see new kit pics then start a thread and link it here,then we can comment on it directly and the OP gets some recognition

Reviews has its own section,feel free to post links to the video there then we can comment on it,this keeps this thread clean and on topic.









If your review videos are well made and the community wants them,I think it could be worth adding a second listing for them on the first page,I will try and get a poll up later on.

What was that 5 post madness about Ceadder? You fall asleep on the KB again?


----------



## dizzledon

took some photos of my finished build.. i suppose it fits here.

















Also, B NEG. just checked out the finished pictures of your MilSpec build... what a lucky kid


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If EK worked with them to build this heatsink, then there's your square reason they put barbs on it. G1/4" ports would have hindered sales of the EK northbridge blocks they have available. I believe they worked the fixed barbs into the deal with ASUS. Especially considering it's not an overly expensive motherboard @$280.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh I figure that's what they did too and why it was done that way. But I think that Manufacturer has the right to final say on the blocks. I'm wondering if I should get one when I'm ready to jump on the Intel wagon. Also wondering if I do grab one if I should remove the barbs and tap the Heat Sink for G1/4 thread to allow for 1/2" x 3/4" comps. I sure don't feel like spending extra money on a block when there is a perfectly good one on the Board if not a little flawed in that regard. Hell I could live with em if I have to get two smaller comps for the CPU and the Pump out but I'm not keen on adding a restriction to my loop to keep the same size that I'm running, nor am I keen on running 3/8" ID tubing either.
> Shouldn't be too hard to cut the barbs down and have them threaded to work with what I'm already running I wouldn't think. I've threaded much more difficult things over the years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What everyone who is familliar with real water cooling loops might want to keep in mind about the Asus Thermal Fusion setup, is that if you read the manuals for the mobos that have it, they all tell you not to use / add a GPU into the loop with it . . . . . . CPU & TF only in a loop.

That has to indicate just how restrictive that little tube is. It really isn't much different looking than a heat pipe from an air cpu cooler, or the heat pipe that it runs next to.

There really is nothing to drill and tap for G 1/4, it's just a piece of small diameter metal tubing press fit into the aluminum extrusion heatsink, it is not at all a "block" in any sense of the word we are used to using.

The top of the ROG boards (Z77) the MVE, doesn't even have TF, so I think that has some meaning as well.

If you opt for the MVF, go with the EK FC block.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What everyone who is familliar with real water cooling loops might want to keep in mind about the Asus Thermal Fusion setup, is that if you read the manuals for the mobos that have it, they all tell you not to use add a GPU into the loop with it . . . . . . CPU & TF only in a loop.
> That has to indicate just how restrictive that little tube is. It really isn't much different looking than a heat pipe from an air cpu cooler, or the heat pipe that it runs next to.
> There really is nothing to drill and tap for G 1/4, it's just a piece of small diameter metal tubing press fit into the aluminum extrusion heatsink, it is not at all a "block" in any sense of the word we are used to using.
> The top of the ROG boards (Z77) the MVE, doesn't even have TF, so I think that has some meaning as well.
> If you opt for the MVF, go with the EK FC block.
> Darlene


This^^
Its a gimmick


----------



## Red1776

Hi folks,
Here is my entry for the OCN Water Cooling Club. I'll describe it as the:
" 2200W, Triple Crossfire, Triple Rad, Triple Power Supply,Dual Pump, 5.2GHz, 103 lb, 3+1 Eyefinity ,Unfinished but functional Cosmos 2 Project" ...or something like that








sorry, my wife and kids are sick and I have been playing the role of nurse duties for about 50 hours straight now and starting to get punchy









*Holodeck IV*



The only AMD machine to make the OCN *'Top 30 Heaven 3.0 Scores'* thread: (#21...and #29 for that matter)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## steelkevin

I've spent a bit of time looking around to know the cost of a 500*400*3mm acrylic sheet to show off my loop. And I was looking at how much acrylic tubing would cost. I found out real plexiglass tube was really cheap. Any opinion on it ? Is it harder to work with than acrylic ?

Here's a link to it http://www.plexiglas-shop.com/FR/fr/tube-5tvmaegd8pg/plexiglas-xt-allround-transparent-0a070-gt-i1cp3kxy99k~p.html
Yes, they only have 12mm OD with 8mm ID but that doesn't really bother me.


----------



## Rickles

Personally I wouldn't have the patience to build with plexi or acrylic tube. The angle fittings necessary to keep all the tube straight would be too big of a headache for me.


----------



## lowfat

I prefer sleeved tubing over copper/arcylic tubing.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Personally I wouldn't have the patience to build with plexi or acrylic tube. The angle fittings necessary to keep all the tube straight would be too big of a headache for me.


What angled fittings ? One of many of hard tubing pros is that it bends really well without kinking as most "soft" tubing would.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I prefer sleeved tubing over copper/arcylic tubing.


+1 to this..


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Redid the loop last week.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Red smexiness!


WOW







now i'm determined to get the C70 even though everyone recommended the 810 and i was partially with them. (also, the C70 is cheaper by almost 100$ here)
if you would have used a shorter PSU, could you fit that 240 on the bottom? (lets say a AX750?)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Actually the V2 one is the only alphacool block that fits the MSI tf3 both version 1 & 2. Version 2 of the MSI does use the 7970 PCB with the 8 & 6 pin power plugs.
> 
> 
> 
> Which is still confusing because according to that chart everything from V1 should be also listed in with V2. I guess the best answer would be to contact Alphacool directly.
Click to expand...

not sure if it helps or not, but if you go to Alphacool's website to the product pages (*link* and *Link*) you'll find these two manuals:
*this on the V1*, and *this on the V2*

if you scroll to the bottom you would see the difference between both.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What everyone who is familliar with real water cooling loops might want to keep in mind about the Asus Thermal Fusion setup, is that if you read the manuals for the mobos that have it, they all tell you not to use / add a GPU into the loop with it . . . . . . CPU & TF only in a loop.
> That has to indicate just how restrictive that little tube is. It really isn't much different looking than a heat pipe from an air cpu cooler, or the heat pipe that it runs next to.
> There really is nothing to drill and tap for G 1/4, it's just a piece of small diameter metal tubing press fit into the aluminum extrusion heatsink, it is not at all a "block" in any sense of the word we are used to using.
> The top of the ROG boards (Z77) the MVE, doesn't even have TF, so I think that has some meaning as well.
> If you opt for the MVF, go with the EK FC block.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> This^^
> Its a gimmick
Click to expand...

So it would be that bad to include the TF 'block' in a loop with 2 rads, cpu and gpu that a D5 couldn't handle it? should i consider the 35x route? don't include the TF at all?


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I prefer sleeved tubing over copper/arcylic tubing.


..sure does look great lowfat, you must do a "how to" thread


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> WOW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i'm determined to get the C70 even though everyone recommended the 810 and i was partially with them. (also, the C70 is cheaper by almost 100$ here)
> if you would have used a shorter PSU, could you fit that 240 on the bottom? (lets say a AX750?)


Use a ruler on your screen, it would fit with that PSU.
Keep in mind that the available width is probably over 180mm and the 240 rads only take up about 125mm. So the PSU cables would go behind it.

EDIT: maybe not, hadn't realized it was a modular PSU. I'm sur it could fit anyway. They're only cables after all.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> WOW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i'm determined to get the C70 even though everyone recommended the 810 and i was partially with them. (also, the C70 is cheaper by almost 100$ here)
> if you would have used a shorter PSU, could you fit that 240 on the bottom? (lets say a AX750?)
> not sure if it helps or not, but if you go to Alphacool's website to the product pages (*link* and *Link*) you'll find these two manuals:
> *this on the V1*, and *this on the V2*
> if you scroll to the bottom you would see the difference between both.
> So it would be that bad to include the TF 'block' in a loop with 2 rads, cpu and gpu that a D5 couldn't handle it? should i consider the 35x route? don't include the TF at all?


I would personally go with an McP35X anyway, but that's just my preference. I would think you could run them all in the same loop without problems if you ran "f" splitters before and after the CPU and northbridge, therefor splitting the pressure and flow between the 2, and then the flow would combine just before going into the GPU. Of course you'd want to use the smaller tube on the TF block.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Use a ruler on your screen, it would fit with that PSU.
> Keep in mind that the available width is probably over 180mm and the 240 rads only take up about 125mm. So the PSU cables would go behind it.
> EDIT: maybe not, hadn't realized it was a modular PSU. I'm sur it could fit anyway. They're only cables after all.


yeah thanks. from the specs: HX650 - 86mm x 150mm x 200mm (H) x (W) x (L) vs AX750 - 86mm x 150mm x 160mm (H) x (W) x (L)
so might be a bit tight but i guess it is enough unless i plan to use some monster like the Alphacool one (almost a pun)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> WOW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i'm determined to get the C70 even though everyone recommended the 810 and i was partially with them. (also, the C70 is cheaper by almost 100$ here)
> if you would have used a shorter PSU, could you fit that 240 on the bottom? (lets say a AX750?)
> not sure if it helps or not, but if you go to Alphacool's website to the product pages (*link* and *Link*) you'll find these two manuals:
> *this on the V1*, and *this on the V2*
> if you scroll to the bottom you would see the difference between both.
> So it would be that bad to include the TF 'block' in a loop with 2 rads, cpu and gpu that a D5 couldn't handle it? should i consider the 35x route? don't include the TF at all?


The TF is a huge bottleneck, plan your system without including that.

I doubt the mobo manuals would warn against including a GPU in the loop with it if it wasn't really a major issue, much less try to use 2 GPU's with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I would personally go with an McP35X anyway, but that's just my preference. I would think you could run them all in the same loop without problems if you ran "f" splitters before and after the CPU and northbridge, therefor splitting the pressure and flow between the 2, and then the flow would combine just before going into the GPU. Of course you'd want to use the smaller tube on the TF block.


If you're going to spend the kind of money that you're already looking at for a nice custom loop and dual GPU's, it just seems foolish not to spend a few bucks more for the EK block made for the MVF and ditch the hokie TF entirely.

Trying to ghetto rig it in is going to look like crap, and be a distant second rate to doing it right the first time around.

Darlene


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Here is my review of the CM Seidon 120M
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent Unboxing bro. Wish more unboxings were this well done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might get one of these for my Girl's system when I start in on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What TIM did they put in with it, you missed that but that's just a niggling little detail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Thanks







Crap I didn't cover that, I guess that's what happens when you have to redo everything but the unboxing in one day due to a HDD crashing and burning. It came with Cooler Master's grey TIM. I used AC MX-2 for the review.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> While i appreciate everyones enthusiasm,this is a thread for Watercooling Rig pictures,if you didnt take the photo, ie,shop photos of new kit, review videos etc, dont post it.
> If you have the kit and have taken photos to show us,cool beans,this what Bundy does to great effect...remember tho,these are his pictures which is why he gets to post them.
> Obviously if the pic is an aid for assisting someone then thats fine.
> If you see new kit pics then start a thread and link it here,then we can comment on it directly and the OP gets some recognition
> 
> Reviews has its own section,feel free to post links to the video there then we can comment on it,this keeps this thread clean and on topic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your review videos are well made and the community wants them,I think it could be worth adding a second listing for them on the first page,I will try and get a poll up later on.
> 
> What was that 5 post madness about Ceadder? You fall asleep on the KB again?


Fixed, but really with all the posts and pages with no pics, you pick this one to single out







I do see understand why you might not want the reviews getting posted here, we all might start doing them and over run this thread with them.

BTW the review section is now separate from the forum, and from what I've seen no one goes there now. If you search for a product the reviews will be the last thing in the results even if it is the newest post.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzledon*
> 
> took some photos of my finished build.. i suppose it fits here.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, B NEG. just checked out the finished pictures of your MilSpec build... what a lucky kid


Those fittings are just


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The TF is a huge bottleneck, plan your system without including that.
> I doubt the mobo manuals would warn against including a GPU in the loop with it if it wasn't really a major issue, much less try to use 2 GPU's with it.
> If you're going to spend the kind of money that you're already looking at for a nice custom loop and dual GPU's, it just seems foolish not to spend a few bucks more for the EK block made for the MVF and ditch the hokie TF entirely.
> Trying to ghetto rig it in is going to look like crap, and be a distant second rate to doing it right the first time around.
> Darlene


firstly, this doesn't look that bad and i'll even dare to say beautiful despite the hose clamps. (plan to go on a similar loop and case)
Secondly, how bad is that bottleneck that you speak of?
thirdly, holding the manual in front of me (page 1-47), it is only a recommendation. between those recommendations is to route the waterflow from the cpu block to the TF (which makes minimal difference) and i guess the separation recommendation by the manual is from the assumption that dual loop > single loop.
and lastly, as being a first timer in WC and planning a loop with single GPU, the EK block is not mere _"a few bucks more"_. it is 100$ more. (and it includes the chipset block which i find unnecessary for Z77, let alone the CSQ design. not saying that it is bad, just that by going CSQ you need to go full CSQ to make it look good)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Fixed, but really with all the posts and pages with no pics, you pick this one to single out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do see understand why you might not want the reviews getting posted here, we all might start doing them and over run this thread with them.
> BTW the review section is now separate from the forum, and from what I've seen no one goes there now. If you search for a product the reviews will be the last thing in the results even if it is the newest post.


I wasnt singling anyone out GoodInk,i was updating the thread about 30 pages back when i noticed videos coming in...
I want the resources here too but i cant really add them to the database...

Here is what we can do,we start a new thread especially for video reviews on WC gear and link them to their own database or we add them to this thread and link them to their own database on the first post here.
I have been meaning to do one for Bundy anyway so its no real problem.....but....

I dont really want this to become a review thread,discussion-yes,but not reviews,this thread moves fast anyway without adding more....

Everybody feel free to comment on this.


----------



## wermad

The block is heavy







, needs some support....ghetto mod skills to the rescue











Needs some more refinement ("prototype") and I also need a new and better blade for my Jigsaw to make better cuts. I had some spare acrylic sheet and rather than drop $150 on new backplates, the 3mm thick sheets will provide some needed support


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shocking ain't it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Don't do it Cead!!!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzledon*
> 
> took some photos of my finished build.. i suppose it fits here.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, B NEG. just checked out the finished pictures of your MilSpec build... what a lucky kid


I cry...


----------



## ElGreco

Hi all&#8230;

I am glad to announce the finish of my Build. It took me almost a year, with several problems I had to overcome, but I think at the end, I have come up with something I really like









Still, my Build is miles away from the perfection of other OCN members' builds, but I am more than happy with it









Before I proceed with a few pictures, I would like to thank *OCN* and *TheLab.gr* members, who have inspired me with their builds and many times helped me directly during my water-cooling endeavour.

Also, I would like to thank and congratulate for their *excellent customer support* *Specialtech*, *Mayhems* and of course *Swiftech* , who really spent quite a LOT of time with me, trying to solve the issues I have come across this last year.

Enjoy the pictures&#8230;








(Build Log will follow if/whenever I find some time)


----------



## wermad

Ceadderman going Intel?!?!?!?!? Time to hit the ski slopes of Hell


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Fixed, but really with all the posts and pages with no pics, you pick this one to single out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do see understand why you might not want the reviews getting posted here, we all might start doing them and over run this thread with them.
> BTW the review section is now separate from the forum, and from what I've seen no one goes there now. If you search for a product the reviews will be the last thing in the results even if it is the newest post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't singling anyone out GoodInk,i was updating the thread about 30 pages back when i noticed videos coming in...
> I want the resources here too but i cant really add them to the database...
> 
> Here is what we can do,we start a new thread especially for video reviews on WC gear and link them to their own database or we add them to this thread and link them to their own database on the first post here.
> I have been meaning to do one for Bundy anyway so its no real problem.....but....
> 
> I dont really want this to become a review thread,discussion-yes,but not reviews,this thread moves fast anyway without adding more....
> 
> Everybody feel free to comment on this.
Click to expand...

I do feel that there is way too much chatting going on in here for this being a picture thread. If you miss a couple days, you are 100 posts behind, in fact I have pretty much gave up on reading all the posts. If I have fallen behind I don't even go through the pages sometimes and just end up skipping to the last post.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I do feel that there is way too much chatting going on in here for this being a picture thread. If you miss a couple days, you are 100 posts behind, in fact I have pretty much gave up on reading all the posts. If I have fallen behind I don't even go through the pages sometimes and just end up skipping to the last post.


The title is "Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery". Not "Water Cooling Picture Gallery". Which is why so much chat is going on I guess.
And I find the thread to move way slower than a couple weeks ago. I check it several times a day and most the time I wonder how it can be so quiet (well it did go really fast one day not so long ago but it started with OverClocking and ended with PSUs...)


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> That has got to be your 3" added mod - are you ready to share MOAR PIX of it ???


no i haven't modded it yet.the top is just resting on my Monsta rad
.was going to go yesterday to buy the stuff i need
but beers got in the way lol..neways going today or tomorrow to pick up the
stuff.hopefully they have it in stock..i'm actually using door casing/moulding for
my addition lol.. was going to use square tubing but it would not have worked out.
here's a pic of what i'm picking up for it.
already primed and ready for me to paint also.lol


going to be adding EL wire or strips to it also
it's out of one of those 2..
was just showing pics of my fill port and how it is going to look.
yeah...i'm a procrastinater..(is that how you spell it lol?)


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzledon*
> 
> took some photos of my finished build.. i suppose it fits here.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those fitting go really well with the rads









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> WOW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i'm determined to get the C70 even though everyone recommended the 810 and i was partially with them. (also, the C70 is cheaper by almost 100$ here)
> if you would have used a shorter PSU, could you fit that 240 on the bottom? (lets say a AX750?)
> 
> So it would be that bad to include the TF 'block' in a loop with 2 rads, cpu and gpu that a D5 couldn't handle it? should i consider the 35x route? don't include the TF at all?


I still have room for a 240 rad at the bottom of my case, provided there's no 240 rad standing there








Oh and BTW 810 is nice since it can fit more large radiator. I went with the C70 bacause it is the cheapest all metal build case.
Now it is a lot cheaper on Newegg! Plus a free Corsair fan!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> yeah thanks. from the specs: HX650 - 86mm x 150mm x 200mm (H) x (W) x (L) vs AX750 - 86mm x 150mm x 160mm (H) x (W) x (L)
> so might be a bit tight but i guess it is enough unless i plan to use some monster like the Alphacool one (almost a pun)


My HX650 measures 86mm x 150mm x *150*mm...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Hi all&#8230;
> I am glad to announce the finish of my Build. It took me almost a year, with several problems I had to overcome, but I think at the end, I have come up with something I really like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, my Build is miles away from the perfection of other OCN members' builds, but I am more than happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I proceed with a few pictures, I would like to thank *OCN* and *TheLab.gr* members, who have inspired me with their builds and many times helped me directly during my water-cooling endeavour.
> Also, I would like to thank and congratulate for their *excellent customer support* *Specialtech*, *Mayhems* and of course *Swiftech* , who really spent quite a LOT of time with me, trying to solve the issues I have come across this last year.
> Enjoy the pictures&#8230;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Build Log will follow if/whenever I find some time)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


First time seeing that tubing router (or whatever it's called) in action. Make it looks super clean!


----------



## phillyd

You want pics? Here's some crappy quality pics of my loop mocked up in my Water Phantom. Still gotta put in the PSU, wire, put in the PSU shroud, put on the GPU backplate and fill the loop.
These were taken with my iPad 2, with crappy lighting. my buddy with a good camera is coming over later to take more pics.


----------



## kyismaster

According to what you posted, here it is following those guidelines:

here's my build, the last 2 video's i just uploaded yesterday/this morning at 3am,

its an unboxing of my XSPC 240, and monsoon fittings and such.

also with a second video, installing my monsoon free center compression fittings

http://www.overclock.net/t/1318926/build-log-folding-team-competition-build-project-rainuke#post_18426454

here.

I will be posting a third video, installing the WC loop in my rig. when the correct size tubing comes in.


----------



## phillyd

I'm trying to find benchmarks of temps with the NZXT Kraken x40 to compare to air coolers and CLC's, can anyone find any?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Hi all&#8230;
> I am glad to announce the finish of my Build. It took me almost a year, with several problems I had to overcome, but I think at the end, I have come up with something I really like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, my Build is miles away from the perfection of other OCN members' builds, but I am more than happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I proceed with a few pictures, I would like to thank *OCN* and *TheLab.gr* members, who have inspired me with their builds and many times helped me directly during my water-cooling endeavour.
> Also, I would like to thank and congratulate for their *excellent customer support* *Specialtech*, *Mayhems* and of course *Swiftech* , who really spent quite a LOT of time with me, trying to solve the issues I have come across this last year.
> Enjoy the pictures&#8230;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (Build Log will follow if/whenever I find some time)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [












Those routers look good....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> The title is "Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery". Not "Water Cooling Picture Gallery". Which is why so much chat is going on I guess.
> And I find the thread to move way slower than a couple weeks ago. I check it several times a day and most the time I wonder how it can be so quiet (well it did go really fast one day not so long ago but it started with OverClocking and ended with PSUs...)


Qft


----------



## LuckyNumber13

oops..should have read the whole post before i tryed to
answer it lol.
anyways i'm planning on placing my 360 rad on the bottom
of my case but was wondering if there is any real advantage to
having my rad position in a certain way over another.
ie... rad flat with fittings onthe top , or
rad flat with fitings on the bottom.
or rad on side. here is a pic of my layout roughly
i' am planning of putting a drain in and
was going to place on rad on bottom of case
and have rad with fittings facing down.
just having a hard time planning where to place drain.
any ideas?


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> oops..should have read the whole post before i tryed to
> answer it lol.
> anyways i'm planning on placing my 360 rad on the bottom
> of my case but was wondering if there is any real advantage to
> having my rad position in a certain way over another.
> ie... rad flat with fittings onthe top , or
> rad flat with fitings on the bottom.
> or rad on side. here is a pic of my layout roughly
> i' am planning of putting a drain in and
> was going to place on rad on bottom of case
> and have rad with fittings facing down.
> just having a hard time planning where to place drain.
> any ideas?


That looks like a prity solid plan








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> What angled fittings ? One of many of hard tubing pros is that it bends really well without kinking as most "soft" tubing would.


Sure this is the case for copper tubing and such, but if you are talking about acrylic tubes that kink very easily... Angled fittings are almost a necessity as it is very had to get a nice bend in acrylic tubing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*


Grats on a very clean build, but would you link me to what. You used to make these nice turns?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You want pics? Here's some crappy quality pics of my loop mocked up in my Water Phantom. Still gotta put in the PSU, wire, put in the PSU shroud, put on the GPU backplate and fill the loop.
> These were taken with my iPad 2, with crappy lighting. my buddy with a good camera is coming over later to take more pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice looking build


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> The title is "Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery". Not "Water Cooling Picture Gallery". Which is why so much chat is going on I guess.
> And I find the thread to move way slower than a couple weeks ago. I check it several times a day and most the time I wonder how it can be so quiet (well it did go really fast one day not so long ago but it started with OverClocking and ended with PSUs...)


Thats right,its not a review thread,this is why we need to address this now.


----------



## NewHighScore

So I am confused what is this thread for. It is for pictures or discussion or both?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> So I am confused what is this thread for. It is for pictures or discussion or both?


Both. As long as its about water cooling.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Hi all&#8230;
> 
> I am glad to announce the finish of my Build. It took me almost a year, with several problems I had to overcome, but I think at the end, I have come up with something I really like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, my Build is miles away from the perfection of other OCN members' builds, but I am more than happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I proceed with a few pictures, I would like to thank *OCN* and *TheLab.gr* members, who have inspired me with their builds and many times helped me directly during my water-cooling endeavour.
> 
> Also, I would like to thank and congratulate for their *excellent customer support* *Specialtech*, *Mayhems* and of course *Swiftech* , who really spent quite a LOT of time with me, trying to solve the issues I have come across this last year.
> 
> Enjoy the pictures&#8230;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Build Log will follow if/whenever I find some time)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


First bit I saw the arch in the tubing I was lit ARWUTTAFRAK!!!









Then I saw the next one an I was like KREWEL BREBBE!









For anyone interested those are Phobya U Channel tube routers. They're mostly used to lock your tubing down to a flat surface. First time I've ever seen anyone use them free floating like that. Awesome job.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You want pics? Here's some crappy quality pics of my loop mocked up in my Water Phantom. Still gotta put in the PSU, wire, put in the PSU shroud, put on the GPU backplate and fill the loop.
> These were taken with my iPad 2, with crappy lighting. my buddy with a good camera is coming over later to take more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Okay I'm game where is your PSU mate. I mean where is it gonna go?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shocking ain't it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't do it Cead!!!!
Click to expand...

Nobody hates it more than I but I don't see AMD fixing things anytime soon and it was good run while it lasted but if I'm gonna be spening money on a new board and CPU I'm goin Intel cause AM3+ is the proverbial dead horse and AMD wants to beat it into submission it seems.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dizzledon*
> 
> took some photos of my finished build.. i suppose it fits here.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, B NEG. just checked out the finished pictures of your MilSpec build... what a lucky kid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cry...
Click to expand...

Yeah I always get a little misty eyed when I see gorgeous copper in a build. Just takes my breath away.









~Ceadder


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I do feel that there is way too much chatting going on in here for this being a picture thread. If you miss a couple days, you are 100 posts behind, in fact I have pretty much gave up on reading all the posts. If I have fallen behind I don't even go through the pages sometimes and just end up skipping to the last post.
> 
> 
> 
> The title is "Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery". Not "Water Cooling Picture Gallery". Which is why so much chat is going on I guess.
> And I find the thread to move way slower than a couple weeks ago. I check it several times a day and most the time I wonder how it can be so quiet (well it did go really fast one day not so long ago but it started with OverClocking and ended with PSUs...)
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> So I am confused what is this thread for. It is for pictures or discussion or both?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> So I am confused what is this thread for. It is for pictures or discussion or both?
> 
> 
> 
> Both. As long as its about water cooling.
Click to expand...

My take from the OP

*Purpose:*

I want this thread to exist for 2 purposes.

1. The first purpose is so that we can all enjoy the shear beauty and power of water cooling. (The pics)

2. The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.







(The pics and chatting for noobs, lol)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I do feel that there is way too much chatting going on in here for this being a picture thread. If you miss a couple days, you are 100 posts behind, in fact I have pretty much gave up on reading all the posts. If I have fallen behind I don't even go through the pages sometimes and just end up skipping to the last post.
> 
> 
> 
> The title is "Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery". Not "Water Cooling Picture Gallery". Which is why so much chat is going on I guess.
> 
> And I find the thread to move way slower than a couple weeks ago. I check it several times a day and most the time I wonder how it can be so quiet (well it did go really fast one day not so long ago but it started with OverClocking and ended with PSUs...)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> So I am confused what is this thread for. It is for pictures or discussion or both?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> So I am confused what is this thread for. It is for pictures or discussion or both?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Both. As long as its about water cooling.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My take from the OP
> 
> *Purpose:*
> 
> I want this thread to exist for 2 purposes.
> 1. The first purpose is so that we can all enjoy the shear beauty and power of water cooling. (The pics)
> 
> 2. The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (The pics and chatting for noobs, lol)
Click to expand...











~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> My take from the OP
> 
> *Purpose:*
> 
> I want this thread to exist for 2 purposes.
> 1. The first purpose is so that we can all enjoy the shear beauty and power of water cooling. (The pics)
> 
> 2. The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (The pics and chatting for noobs, lol)


Exactly.

This thread is for completed builds only,everybody posts half finished builds or parts,i do it myself,but the line has to be drawn somewhere
My point is that Review Videos dont come under that.

I want them as part of our resources here tho,especially as the review section is not as helpful as we would like.
It would be a shame if the time someone spent on their videos went to waste....

So there needs to be some discussion on how to make use of them.

My stance is post them in the review thread and link them here,the OP gets his video up and all the comments can be dealt with there by the reviewer.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> That looks like a prity solid plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure this is the case for copper tubing and such, but if you are talking about acrylic tubes that kink very easily... Angled fittings are almost a necessity as it is very had to get a nice bend in acrylic tubing
> *Grats on a very clean build, but would you link me to what. You used to make these nice turns?*
> Very nice looking build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE: it's been 10 hours since I last posted, and I had 5 pages to read >.<


*Here* you go.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> ...
> Grats on a very clean build, but would you link me to what. You used to make these nice turns?


Guys thanks for your kind words about my Build.



Many ask about the routers, so here is the link...
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-90-Angle-Clip-for-58-OD-16mm-Tubing-pid-13318.html

Again... Thanks!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You want pics? Here's some crappy quality pics of my loop mocked up in my Water Phantom. Still gotta put in the PSU, wire, put in the PSU shroud, put on the GPU backplate and fill the loop.
> These were taken with my iPad 2, with crappy lighting. my buddy with a good camera is coming over later to take more pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OMG Philly! I am turning my NZXT Switch 810 into a Dallas Cowboys build and that color scheme looks so familiar! LOL
Have you been peeking in my windows?


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

So, I've been thinking some more about WC-ing my setup, and after looking at some builds, I've found out the top holds a 480 rad with some modding, and this is what I've come up with so far. Then comes the questions, is a drain port / fill port necessary? If so, where would be a good place to put them, considering the placement / loop order?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









When it comes to the GPU's I'm gonna wait til the new ATI cards are released to see how much better they perform (no point in buying blocks to the 7970's now, and then have to get new blocks with the 8970's), and then I'm going to the case some more (remove the hdd bays, and move the PSU, and add a 480 rad down there) and have the GPu's on their own loop, seeing as the reservoir supports that function..

Any thoughts / improvements?


----------



## ginger_nuts

So I can get a clear understanding B Neg. for me and others:

If I have a question about putting my loop together, Are seeking guidance for the best way to construct it or wanting help in choosing parts, we can ask that here?

If after successfully having my loop up and running I am permitted to post pics/video showing it off?

I am asking these questions in hope that it makes it clearer for people, not many people read or re-read the first post in threads as big or as old as these.

Personally I think you are doing a great job, especially managing such a topic


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> ..sure does look great lowfat, you must do a "how to" thread












http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/lowfats-big-lian-li-16-core-sb-e-gtx680-sli/240_20#post_18579777


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay I'm game where is your PSU mate. I mean where is it gonna go?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Better quality pics! That HDD cage was just there until I could get the PSU in to hold up its shroud to hold the PowerJack to hold my GPU.
*Check out my Water Phantom Build Log*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> My take from the OP
> 
> *Purpose:*
> 
> I want this thread to exist for 2 purposes.
> 1. The first purpose is so that we can all enjoy the shear beauty and power of water cooling. (The pics)
> 
> 2. The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (The pics and chatting for noobs, lol)
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> This thread is for completed builds only,everybody posts half finished builds or parts,i do it myself,but the line has to be drawn somewhere
> My point is that Review Videos dont come under that.
> 
> I want them as part of our resources here tho,especially as the review section is not as helpful as we would like.
> It would be a shame if the time someone spent on their videos went to waste....
> 
> So there needs to be some discussion on how to make use of them.
> 
> My stance is post them in the review thread and link them here,the OP gets his video up and all the comments can be dealt with there by the reviewer.
Click to expand...

Something along the lines of this but with reviews?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1243834/case-mods-build-log-list-discussion-gallery


----------



## phillyd

Oh that's my thread! It is a pretty big list, but by no means comprehensive.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay I'm game where is your PSU mate. I mean where is it gonna go?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better quality pics! That HDD cage was just there until I could get the PSU in to hold up its shroud to hold the PowerJack to hold my GPU.
> *Check out my Water Phantom Build Log*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Ahhhh okay. Too bad that looks like Dodger themed build( Duck the Fodgers!!!) but I will let it slide cause you a Hoime.







looks Awesomesauce though.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

I don't even like baseball. It's just white and blue themed!


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> *Here* you go.
> Jeffinslaw


Ty... Haven't seen those before








... Intresting idea and thy seem to work well too


----------



## eskamobob1

EDIT: double post... at least im not as bad as ceadderman


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Something along the lines of this but with reviews?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1243834/case-mods-build-log-list-discussion-gallery


Spot on!


----------



## mr sadistics

this its my first, build this take , to me like a 2 months enjoys my pics!





im working in bottom fans rad, ill buy one akasa viper, and ill waiting for the others , and ill upgrade my fittings to 45°













sorry for my bad english, and GL


----------



## eskamobob1

looks very good







... what coolant u using/ what mix of dye u use?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> looks very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... what coolant u using/ what mix of dye u use?


it kinda looks like this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34082


----------



## PTCB

Guys, I need your opinions on my loop's temps. Please reply here if you can. Cheers.









PTCB


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> it kinda looks like this:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34082


kk... thats what i was thinking too... i just havent seen it in a rig yet








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Guys, I need your opinions on my loop's temps. Please reply here if you can. Cheers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PTCB


replied


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> kk... thats what i was thinking too... i just havent seen it in a rig yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> replied


Are you talking about this?











Thanks for the reply.


----------



## eskamobob1

Lol... Win ^







... And @mr... I respect the honesty of ur name


----------



## wermad

Budget backplates ftw









I didn't realize my last large sheet of acrylic was 3/16 but it was stiffer than 1/4 and still weighs about the same as an aluminum authentic backplates. I'm waiting on some standoffs and M3 screws to attach them. The one on the far right is the prototype i used to fashion the final four. Its dark transparent w/ a little satin black paint to mask the edges (no time to flame polish







).



Gonna do some final fitment before I pull back the protective film. Total spent: ~$8 for new blades an a new sand belt for some fine sanding.


----------



## eskamobob1

Looks great







... Now since those are custom backplanes, they all need OCN flames


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Budget backplates ftw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize my last large sheet of acrylic was 3/16 but it was stiffer than 1/4 and still weighs about the same as an aluminum authentic backplates. I'm waiting on some standoffs and M3 screws to attach them. The one on the far right is the prototype i used to fashion the final four. Its dark transparent w/ a little satin black paint to mask the edges (no time to flame polish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna do some final fitment before I pull back the protective film. Total spent: ~$8 for new blades an a new sand belt for some fine sanding.


Have you got a grinder/buffer? If you do I would suggest getting buffing compound and putting them to the buffing side of the machine. Much better than flame and much quicker than by hand and looks better than paint.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Satin black looks good. Gives the brushed look of the sides a nice contrast to the polished tops. Also, the satin goes well with black BP d-plugs and black Enzotech fittings









Waiting for more parts to get this build going


----------



## solar0987

2 more fittings and im done lol finally.......

well i looked wrong maybe 5 more fittings haha

pics

360rad 240 rad dual pump cpu/memory/gpu cooled 250mm frozen q helix ress in a azza solano

Still have to master using the camera.....


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> 2 more fittings and im done lol finally.......
> well i looked wrong maybe 5 more fittings haha
> pics
> 360rad 240 rad dual pump cpu/memory/gpu cooled 250mm frozen q helix ress in a azza solano
> Still have to master using the camera.....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those barbs without clamps/ties??? Get







in there to secure that plumbing!


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Are those barbs without clamps/ties??? Get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in there to secure that plumbing!


7/16th tubing over 1/2 inch barbs makes a watertight seal!!
Clamps look ugly imo its been running like that for a year now and no leaks


----------



## RKTGX95

could anyone recommend which route to go?clearflex 60 with red dye or red Masterkleer tubing or black Masterkleer tubing with (more) red lighting?

also, i know it looks desperate, but could more peeps help me in my thread?


----------



## bundymania

Rare block with extreme rare board


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Rare block with extreme rare board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sexy....all of it


----------



## morencyam

Spent my weekend cleaning my loop and changing radiator fans from CM R4's to painted 2150rpm Gentle Typhoons


----------



## dizzledon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Those fittings are just


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I cry...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Those fitting go really well with the rads


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I always get a little misty eyed when I see gorgeous copper in a build. Just takes my breath away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks for all the positive feedback, build log in the sig if anyone is interested.


----------



## Fridge Gnome

Just about done with my first watercooled build.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Rare block with extreme rare board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




































































I would love to have one of each thanks, been dreaming of a Black and Gold build for a while.

But not many gold things are about. Especially MB's

What MB is it anyway?


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Rare block with extreme rare board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What MB is it anyway?
Click to expand...

ECS Z77H2-AX.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to have one of each thanks, been dreaming of a Black and Gold build for a while.
> But not many gold things are about. Especially MB's
> What MB is it anyway?


paired with some black and gold monsoon fittings


----------



## Rickles

and some gold GPU waterblocks.. baller.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> paired with some black and gold monsoon fittings


The Gold monsoons would look amazing, but these are probably bitspower


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fridge Gnome*
> 
> Just about done with my first watercooled build.


That purple lighting looks good in contrast to the blue.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> and some gold GPU waterblocks.. baller.


Lol... Did a build like the for a customer back in the day with a core 2 duo







... We found a gold 285 block and got a Mobo block gold plated... It came out really nice







... It sat in the from of a tech firm that I helped out at for a while... Quite an eye catcher


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

So, I've been thinking some more about WC-ing my setup, and after looking at some builds, I've found out the top of my case can hold a 480 rad with some light modding, and this is what I've come up with so far.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








When it comes to the GPU's I'm gonna have a separate loop for them, but what is best? 2 x 240 rads? or 1 x 480? or is the performance about the same?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Then comes the questions, is a drain port / fill port necessary? If so, where would be a good place to put them, considering the placement / loop order?

Any thoughts / improvements?


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ I would just recommend running a single loop. Even in a case that large dual loops can fill up a lot of space. No matter how clean you route the tubing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> 2 more fittings and im done lol finally.......
> well i looked wrong maybe 5 more fittings haha
> pics
> 360rad 240 rad dual pump cpu/memory/gpu cooled 250mm frozen q helix ress in a azza solano
> Still have to master using the camera.....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those barbs without clamps/ties??? Get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in there to secure that plumbing!
Click to expand...

Nekkid tubing is okay if you have the correct barbs. I don't see any need to use zipties, clamps or aftermarket security devices on those kinds of barbs. I've got two tubes that are not secured at all in my system and can get away with it because I've got triple barbed connectors under them. Nothing wrong with it at all. In fact I'd probably go completely nekkid if I were to get tired of Comps.

@FrozenGnome... Hey bro, love your build. Water cooling a 932 sure is fun. But if I were to change anything, I would suggest flipping that 120 and routing the tubing a bit more directly. from it.









**Update** I'll be replacing the rest of my comps and adding 2 more to my Inlet side to clean things up. So the EK comps will all be out of my system soon. Great comps just don't fit my color scheme as much as I would have preferred in all this black.









~Ceadder


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Lol... Did a build like the for a customer back in the day with a core 2 duo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... We found a gold 285 block and got a Mobo block gold plated... It came out really nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... It sat in the from of a tech firm that I helped out at for a while... Quite an eye catcher


Perhaps, throw in some chrome fans to complete the look? Small dice hanging inside the case.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fridge Gnome*
> 
> Just about done with my first watercooled build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Job...







This is what kills me about These Stickers Though.. My Bottom UT60 240 ended up Inverted.. Of course it Ripped in Half when i Tried to Remove IT..










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Fuganater

For all you folks in the US. I'm working with a plexi company to start stocking 10 mm and 12 mm OD acrylic tubing. I'll let you know more when I can.


----------



## Willhemmens

About the Fusion Thermo, it's actually ok. Here's a video to show you an idea of the flow rate I got with dual 355s.




The heatsink never even got warm to the touch when I had it setup.

Although I've been folding with the system on air for the last 48 hours solid and the heatsink is only warm to the touch anyway.

For sub zero it's also pretty useless as when I was playing with LN2 at the weekend, the heatsink was real cold, running ambient temp water through it would have just warmed it up.

If I wasn't planning to replace it with a Gigabyte UP7, I would get the EK blocks for it.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> About the Fusion Thermo, it's actually ok. Here's a video to show you an idea of the flow rate I got with dual 355s.
> The heatsink never even got warm to the touch when I had it setup.
> Although I've been folding with the system on air for the last 48 hours solid and the heatsink is only warm to the touch anyway.
> For sub zero it's also pretty useless as when I was playing with LN2 at the weekend, the heatsink was real cold, running ambient temp water through it would have just warmed it up.
> If I wasn't planning to replace it with a Gigabyte UP7, I would get the EK blocks for it.


Getting the formula V too in 2 days, aside from the same dual 355, I am also cooling 2x670 with EK WB
You think it would create too much restriction if I also add fusion thermo in the loop?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> About the Fusion Thermo, it's actually ok. Here's a video to show you an idea of the flow rate I got with dual 355s.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The heatsink never even got warm to the touch when I had it setup.
> Although I've been folding with the system on air for the last 48 hours solid and the heatsink is only warm to the touch anyway.
> For sub zero it's also pretty useless as when I was playing with LN2 at the weekend, the heatsink was real cold, running ambient temp water through it would have just warmed it up.
> If I wasn't planning to replace it with a Gigabyte UP7, I would get the EK blocks for it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Getting the formula V too in 2 days, aside from the same dual 355, I am also cooling 2x670 with EK WB
> You think it would create too much restriction if I also add fusion thermo in the loop?


is it going to be good with a single D5 ?

could anyone help me choose the colour theme for my upcoming (new) build? the main theme is red and black (i know most say it is generic, but i love it and lately most peeps are going on blue theme) and there are a few options:
1) go with black tubing, red led fans.
2) black tubing, red anti-kink coils with red fans (not sure if LED or not)
3) red tubing, no red led fans. (sub choice is going with clear tubing with red dye)

for 2 and 3 considering going with some subtle white lighting, and for all choices the XSPC raystorm cpu block would have red led. (also it would be helpful if anyone could give the recommended and the less likely to cloud / stain tubing)


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Tarnix

AMD block..







:
And that board.. Holly ***


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Dear God.....that board......so chav..........

I dont dig the gold at all,seeing that its a ECS board has only sealed its fate.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> is it going to be good with a single D5 ?
> could anyone help me choose the colour theme for my upcoming (new) build? the main theme is red and black (i know most say it is generic, but i love it and lately most peeps are going on blue theme) and there are a few options:
> 1) go with black tubing, red led fans.
> 2) black tubing, red anti-kink coils with red fans (not sure if LED or not)
> 3) red tubing, no red led fans. (sub choice is going with clear tubing with red dye)
> for 2 and 3 considering going with some subtle white lighting, and for all choices the XSPC raystorm cpu block would have red led. (also it would be helpful if anyone could give the recommended and the less likely to cloud / stain tubing)


I am personally not a fan of colored LEDs... That said, I think you should (assuming you Mobo is mainly black) go with a red transparent coolant with most other things black... You would also use red fans, but that may end up looking trashy (it really depends on how they are used)... What case will this be going in? One of the best looking builds I have ever seen was a build that was 100% block except for the coolant which was used with clear tubing, a tube res, and acrylic blocks... It was very eye catching


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dear God.....that board......so chav..........
> I dont dig the gold at all,seeing that its a ECS board has only sealed its fate.


It won't be 100% certified chav until you slap an Adidas sticker on the chipset.


----------



## Willi

just finished changing the tubing on my rig...
Its all Black reactive tubing
I plan on switching to 1155 or maybe 2011, but right now isn't a very good time to upgrade.
The memories are Geil Black Dragons, but I'm considering switching to the samsung 22nm sticks (sadly, newegg won't ship them to brazil).
Anyways, not a great photographer here..













managed to fit a koolance 240mm rad at the bottom without having to remove the drive bay, which made me happy, since the hotswap bay is supported by them.
I really want a cover for the bottom area but I dont know if ColdZero will ship them and if I'll receive them undamaged (considering my country's postal service nearly rendered DWood's brackets for the H60 nearly unuseable).
these are the parts I'm looking for:
bay side cover
mid plate
PSU/bottom cover
Really like the look of those:


Also I'm waiting on the upgrade for the SATA6Gb for the hotswap and two UV cold cathodes, so its 80% finished. The cover plates would be just for a cleaner look.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> I am personally not a fan of colored LEDs... That said, I think you should (assuming you Mobo is mainly black) go with a red transparent coolant with most other things black... You would also use red fans, but that may end up looking trashy (it really depends on how they are used)... What case will this be going in? One of the best looking builds I have ever seen was a build that was 100% block except for the coolant which was used with clear tubing, a tube res, and acrylic blocks... It was very eye catching


i'll be using the Corsair C70 black. i am trying to achieve the idea of a stealth black rig with some tasteful red accents. (which include the few red touches of the MoBo, Raystorm's red led glow and maybe some more glowness)
considered either red LED fans for my top rad (280) that won;t light the case that much but more glow and if i want to achieve red lighting with fans i considered going with NZXT's FZ LED fans which look amazing with great LED effect.

i was thinking of either only black tubing, or black tubing with red coils, or red tubing (or clear with red dye but i want to have the simplicity of using only distilled)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> It won't be 100% certified chav until you slap an Adidas sticker on the chipset.


The Man knows....

Although its a Reebok sticker for true authenticity....


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Man knows....
> Although its a Reebok sticker for true authenticity....


And then put it in the Jeremy Kyle show about how it's sister is its mother who slep with it's son and is now living off the government.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> About the Fusion Thermo, it's actually ok. Here's a video to show you an idea of the flow rate I got with dual 355s.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The heatsink never even got warm to the touch when I had it setup.
> Although I've been folding with the system on air for the last 48 hours solid and the heatsink is only warm to the touch anyway.
> For sub zero it's also pretty useless as when I was playing with LN2 at the weekend, the heatsink was real cold, running ambient temp water through it would have just warmed it up.
> If I wasn't planning to replace it with a Gigabyte UP7, I would get the EK blocks for it.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Getting the formula V too in 2 days, aside from the same dual 355, I am also cooling 2x670 with EK WB
> You think it would create too much restriction if I also add fusion thermo in the loop?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> is it going to be good with a single D5 ?
> 
> could anyone help me choose the colour theme for my upcoming (new) build? the main theme is red and black (i know most say it is generic, but i love it and lately most peeps are going on blue theme) and there are a few options:
> 1) go with black tubing, red led fans.
> 2) black tubing, red anti-kink coils with red fans (not sure if LED or not)
> 3) red tubing, no red led fans. (sub choice is going with clear tubing with red dye)
> 
> for 2 and 3 considering going with some subtle white lighting, and for all choices the XSPC raystorm cpu block would have red led. (also it would be helpful if anyone could give the recommended and the less likely to cloud / stain tubing)
Click to expand...

Go with option 3 and white LED fans or strips. Would look quite awesome but as long as you have understated fittings that don't jump out at you and don't fade into the background.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If Phobya keeps improving the look of their tops, this is probably my next choice for a top so long as EK insists on only pushing their CSQ and Nickel crap.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> just finished changing the tubing on my rig...
> Its all Black reactive tubing
> I plan on switching to 1155 or maybe 2011, but right now isn't a very good time to upgrade.
> The memories are Geil Black Dragons, but I'm considering switching to the samsung 22nm sticks (sadly, newegg won't ship them to brazil).
> Anyways, not a great photographer here..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> managed to fit a koolance 240mm rad at the bottom without having to remove the drive bay, which made me happy, since the hotswap bay is supported by them.
> I really want a cover for the bottom area but I dont know if ColdZero will ship them and if I'll receive them undamaged (considering my country's postal service nearly rendered DWood's brackets for the H60 nearly unuseable).
> these are the parts I'm looking for:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> bay side cover
> mid plate
> PSU/bottom cover
> 
> 
> Really like the look of those:
> 
> 
> Also I'm waiting on the upgrade for the SATA6Gb for the hotswap and two UV cold cathodes, so its 80% finished. The cover plates would be just for a cleaner look.


You can make one for yourself cheaper and not have to worry about paying shipping and possible damages during the shipping process. A couple pieced of perspecs and some plastics cement is all you need.. Just make sure to use the cement in a well ventilated area, wear a respirator when cutting with a tool and always remember eye protection. Go nuts with it and lets see what you can do when you put your mind to it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> It won't be 100% certified chav until you slap an Adidas sticker on the chipset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quote
> 
> The Man knows....
> 
> Although its a Reebok sticker for true authenticity....
Click to expand...

No Mate, here in the States it's Addidas. Grew up in the era. It was Addidas, Converse, Puma, Nike then Reeboks. Then Reeboks came out with their colored Aerobics style shoes and they jumped to the middle of the pack. In my neighborhood we were wearin Chucks. I still wear Chucks when I'm not wearing my Martens 8 eyes. Across tha pond:I'm sure it was different but here in the States it was always Addidas.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> And then put it in the Jeremy Kyle show about how it's sister is its mother who slep with it's son and is now living off the government.


Winnah!

So true.....

In other news,XSPC are sending me one of these to mod!



http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-H1-Cube-Extreme-Watercooling-Cube-Case-pid-15088.html

Damn,im going to be sooooo busy.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Winnah!
> So true.....
> In other news,XSPC are sending me one of these to mod!
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-H1-Cube-Extreme-Watercooling-Cube-Case-pid-15088.html
> Damn,im going to be sooooo busy.


To mod? Damn they are so ugly I would sell most my family (not children or wife) to have one









This will be interesting.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> is it going to be good with a single D5 ?
> could anyone help me choose the colour theme for my upcoming (new) build? the main theme is red and black (i know most say it is generic, but i love it and lately most peeps are going on blue theme) and there are a few options:
> 1) go with black tubing, red led fans.
> 2) black tubing, red anti-kink coils with red fans (not sure if LED or not)
> 3) red tubing, no red led fans. (sub choice is going with clear tubing with red dye)
> for 2 and 3 considering going with some subtle white lighting, and for all choices the XSPC raystorm cpu block would have red led. (also it would be helpful if anyone could give the recommended and the less likely to cloud / stain tubing)
> 
> 
> 
> Go with option 3 and white LED fans or strips. Would look quite awesome but as long as you have understated fittings that don't jump out at you and don't fade into the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

then it is decided (though black tubing with red coils sounds great but unfortunately couldn't find any good pic). only question is either going Clearflex 60 with red mayhems dye or with Masterkleer red tubing...
(is it recommended going with red fans which aren't with LED with that theme? like some phobya ones? also considered using a single NZXT FZ fan as the subtle white lighting, is it a good idea?)

and i plan on using the XSPC compression fittings, with the EK angles if needed. (i find them great fittings which look good, inexpensive and fit every build)


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> And then put it in the Jeremy Kyle show about how it's sister is its mother who slep with it's son and is now living off the government.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Winnah!
> 
> So true.....
> 
> In other news,XSPC are sending me one of these to mod!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-H1-Cube-Extreme-Watercooling-Cube-Case-pid-15088.html
> 
> Damn,im going to be sooooo busy.
Click to expand...

You suck.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just found these lovely blocks are only $15 more then the Koolance 370 and offer about 3 degrees better cooling.

I might be in some deep trouble very soon, especially this close to Christmas, when the wife finds out


----------



## wermad

I had the H2, not the greatest case and execution tbh. And the msrp is laughable. I rather go w/ a MM than an XSPC case









I fudged up my back plates. Still very workable. just drilled one whole skewed into two of them. I really should get that drill press fixed









mcmastercarr.com and their ultra fast shipping came to the rescue with some nice new (and longer screws) for the back plates


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Winnah!
> So true.....
> In other news,XSPC are sending me one of these to mod!
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-H1-Cube-Extreme-Watercooling-Cube-Case-pid-15088.html
> Damn,im going to be sooooo busy.


very sweet







... so what are your ideas on what you plan to do to it so far?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> then it is decided (though black tubing with red coils sounds great but unfortunately couldn't find any good pic). only question is either going Clearflex 60 with red mayhems dye or with Masterkleer red tubing...
> (is it recommended going with red fans which aren't with LED with that theme? like some phobya ones? also considered using a single NZXT FZ fan as the subtle white lighting, is it a good idea?)
> and i plan on using the XSPC compression fittings, with the EK angles if needed. (i find them great fittings which look good, inexpensive and fit every build)


i am personaly a fan of the mayhem option (i think a trasperent red would go well with this build and transprent colored tubing has always been a pain in my experences)... another option for the fans would be to get pure black fans and mod them for red LEDs... all you would do for this is pop a little hole in the side of teh casing and mount red LEDs there, but since the black will absorb most of the low light it will give off more of an eairy glow then shine red light through out your case


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> i am personaly a fan of the mayhem option (i think a trasperent red would go well with this build and transprent colored tubing has always been a pain in my experences)... another option for the fans would be to get pure black fans and mod them for red LEDs... all you would do for this is pop a little hole in the side of teh casing and mount red LEDs there, but since the black will absorb most of the low light it will give off more of an eairy glow then shine red light through out your case


love the sound of that glow thing. But since i'm no modder, i'll go with the phobya fan (Phobya G-Silent 14 red led, it has a black frame with red blades and it mostly glows) which has a slightly stronger glow but still only a glow and not red piercing case lighting.

also, how much of the mayhems dye is needed for the average loop? (so it will be a strong cherry-ish red. would it stain?)


----------



## Michalius

Nice pickup BNeg, can't wait to see what you do with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had the H2, not the greatest case and execution tbh. And the msrp is laughable. I rather go w/ a MM than an XSPC case


Are you just perpetually angry? Maybe... mad?









XSPC CUBE HAS SHARP KNEES


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had the H2, not the greatest case and execution tbh. And the msrp is laughable. I rather go w/ a MM than an XSPC case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fudged up my back plates. Still very workable. just drilled one whole skewed into two of them. I really should get that drill press fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mcmastercarr.com and their ultra fast shipping came to the rescue with some nice new (and longer screws) for the back plates


but Werm,A. Its Free and B. I get to cut bloody great holes in it.
The case is going to be totally re-arranged internally....watch this space


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> love the sound of that glow thing. But since i'm no modder, i'll go with the phobya fan (Phobya G-Silent 14 red led, it has a black frame with red blades and it mostly glows) which has a slightly stronger glow but still only a glow and not red piercing case lighting.
> also, how much of the mayhems dye is needed for the average loop? (so it will be a strong cherry-ish red. would it stain?)


lol... fair enought







... and im not usre as i havent used Mayhems red... why dont you try asking here... mayhem is very helpful and im sure he could give you a ratio... but beofre that you may just wanna check their sight... i think it on there tbh... and it will also come down to some personal taste.. some may like a lighter red wile other like a bright red... as for the stain, it may minimaly, but it wont be much and it will take a wile... the real one to be careful of for stain is anything pink








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> but Werm,A. Its Free and B. I get to cut bloody great holes in it.
> The case is going to be totally re-arranged internally....watch this space


ill stay tuned







... should be good


----------



## douglatins

Is a kink goung to hurt my performance? Im getting 53C idle with a EK HF and a triple radiator. Men, i never get it right


----------



## Arm3nian

I will be getting this pump top

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16419/ex-pmp-198/EK_D5_X-Top_Acetal_Pump_Top_CSQ_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655_EK-D5_X-TOP_CSQ_-_Acetal.html

With this res

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11180/ex-res-227/EK-MultiOption_RES_X2_-_250_Basic_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_4_Total_Ports.html

And will link them using this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15532/ex-tub-1229/XSPC_G14_Male_to_Male_Extender_-_5mm_-_Chrome.html

Everything look good? Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> is it going to be good with a single D5 ?
> could anyone help me choose the colour theme for my upcoming (new) build? the main theme is red and black (i know most say it is generic, but i love it and lately most peeps are going on blue theme) and there are a few options:
> 1) go with black tubing, red led fans.
> 2) black tubing, red anti-kink coils with red fans (not sure if LED or not)
> 3) red tubing, no red led fans. (sub choice is going with clear tubing with red dye)
> for 2 and 3 considering going with some subtle white lighting, and for all choices the XSPC raystorm cpu block would have red led. (also it would be helpful if anyone could give the recommended and the less likely to cloud / stain tubing)
> 
> 
> 
> Go with option 3 and white LED fans or strips. Would look quite awesome but as long as you have understated fittings that don't jump out at you and don't fade into the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> then it is decided (though black tubing with red coils sounds great but unfortunately couldn't find any good pic). only question is either going Clearflex 60 with red mayhems dye or with Masterkleer red tubing...
> (is it recommended going with red fans which aren't with LED with that theme? like some phobya ones? also considered using a single NZXT FZ fan as the subtle white lighting, is it a good idea?)
> 
> and i plan on using the XSPC compression fittings, with the EK angles if needed. (i find them great fittings which look good, inexpensive and fit every build)
Click to expand...

I wouldn't spend so much on Phobya kit unless you can get a solid deal for them. Yate Loons are just as good imho, $4 each before shipping and with a can of Universal Advanced Crimon Gloss you can make the blades closer resemble the Red in your system.









If you're her e in the states get some Duralene($ .65 a foot) and go with Mayhems dye. The Dye guys can help you get the right kind of dye if I didn't suggest a good one. I don't use dyes an never have so I wouldn't know about that stuff tbh. But if you're gonna do dye may as well go with Duralene from Sidewinder. It still is prone to leaching like everything else but at $.65 a foot it's reasonable until we figure out the best tubing for 24/7 operation with temps of 30c or higher. There are no colored tubing that is not prone to the stuff sad to say.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Nice pickup BNeg, can't wait to see what you do with it.
> Are you just perpetually angry? Maybe... mad?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC CUBE HAS SHARP KNEES


Nah, I had the H2 and its not that impressive. The design is good and I'll give them that. Over all, it just lacks in execution. The drive bay system is very flimsy. the panels are anodized but easily scratch. The top rad placement is not ideal once you stick in a large 480mm rad. MM no longer gets praise since Case Labs came in. I don't disagree. I think CL is top tier all the way and I hope to own one day







. But, the XSPC are less superior than a MM imho. And the asking price from XSPC is just ridiculous. Heck, my old DD Double Wide was way better and that was made from acrylic and was the same price.

Its just something out of place for XSPC since they're known for being wallet friendly. And it fails to meet the expectations at their pricing. My









I've seen many posts from many members disliking a case. I usually am I a fan but this is one I'm not a fan of.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> but Werm,A. Its Free and B. I get to cut bloody great holes in it.
> The case is going to be totally re-arranged internally....watch this space


Free, can't complaint about that! You have some serious talent and I know you can turn this thing around and make it bad-a$$ drool-tastic.

Just got some new gear. New psu (CM 1.5kw), new mb (GB Sniper Z77), and some BP D-plugs (black w/ green o-rings







).


----------



## BiaBia

Thought I'd through a few shots of my box up finally. Still a work in progress but it's serving me well so far.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiaBia*
> 
> Thought I'd through a few shots of my box up finally. Still a work in progress but it's serving me well so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice and clean! I can hear something about sleeving the cables being said... but I still think it looks great.


----------



## BiaBia

lol thanks and yeah I know sleeving is one of the next projects, as is putting my second 670 on water.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> love the sound of that glow thing. But since i'm no modder, i'll go with the phobya fan (Phobya G-Silent 14 red led, it has a black frame with red blades and it mostly glows) which has a slightly stronger glow but still only a glow and not red piercing case lighting.


Beware of the Phobya fans. They might come with clear frame, like the one that I have now. Frustrated at first, but since they are not visible in my case I don't bother to return them.


----------



## linuxfueled

old mini 775 board 2g ram dual core and sata custom liquid cooled with old parts laying around...i hate structured writing

Ubuntu Server OS


----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Shin Chan coming up here and styling on all of us.


----------



## wermad




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


Nice looking D Plugs werm.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I will be getting this pump top
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16419/ex-pmp-198/EK_D5_X-Top_Acetal_Pump_Top_CSQ_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655_EK-D5_X-TOP_CSQ_-_Acetal.html
> With this res
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11180/ex-res-227/EK-MultiOption_RES_X2_-_250_Basic_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_4_Total_Ports.html
> And will link them using this
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15532/ex-tub-1229/XSPC_G14_Male_to_Male_Extender_-_5mm_-_Chrome.html
> Everything look good? Thanks


I'd recommend using a rotary male to male connector: like this one

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11882/ex-tub-732/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Male_to_Male_Rotary_Extender_BP-MBRG.html

If you really need silver, then this one plus the one you linked:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12082/ex-tub-746/Bitspower_G14_Anti-Twist_Rotary_Extender_Adapter_-_Silver_Shining_BP-DR-C.html?tl=g30c497s1362

Darlene


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Rare block with extreme rare board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> It won't be 100% certified chav until you slap an Adidas sticker on the chipset.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Man knows....
> Although its a Reebok sticker for true authenticity....


LOL!

"My name is Prince, and i am funky"
"My name is Prince, the one and only!"


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

How is gold more "chav" then all the rainbow fantastic builds that are a staple on this site, and everywhere else computer enthusiasts gather. I'd take the gold over half the stuff that people are into nowadays.

Here's my gold build with an Asrock Extreme 3 Gen3 -



Pretty chav...I must say...


----------



## kcuestag

I was bored last night and decided to drain the loop and add the 120mm rad I had laying around:



I then realized the rad didn't fit properly so I had to do some ghetto modding and install it with zip ties instead, at the end, it doesn't look bad, does it?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Probably would have touched it up with some paint, otherwise it looks fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Dude, that's a fine opinion...and comeback? All I am saying is there a thousands of more "chav" builds in this thread than that. I don't know how old some of you are, but glowing colourful rainbow rigs wouldn't exactly fit in with any home decor. I know most of the site is teenagers who haven't yet acquired taste, but still.
> I think I need to start a thread of "clean" builds only...
> And actually, here's a comeback for you - you own a CM Storm Scout. Not chav at all.


I did own a Scout...years ago
That scout was the first Scout with a 360 rad in the roof and had some sweet clean routing..



A good case for LANS.

However i have moved on to other things.



















You want me to start on your budget value case if you want to get personal?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> I will gladly post some pics...you guys are allowed to have your opinions, and I have mine. Deal with it, I guess. If you don't have a rainbow rig, than why get your panties in such a bunch? Pics in a minute...and attack away, I love my case, and what I have done to it. Just because someone else doesn't share that opinion doesn't mean I get all butthurt about it. Everyone who's seen it in person thinks it's great. Had tons of compliments at the OCN/AMD LAN. And I won this case with about $400 worth of gear to go inside of it, so yeah. I love my rig and everything in it. And honestly, both the rigs you posted are pretty clean...the Corsair is gorgeous, the LD is beautiful too, just not my thing. Though i'd love a LD case. And honestly, it's an internet forum, people might just have opinions that differ from yours, but I hate to say it, calling something "chav" is opinion, no matter how "chav" you believe something is. You can call it like a fact all you want..then I can call it a fact that most of the rigs on here are "ricer".


Differences of opinion are fine,we get that a lot here,but attacking other members to get your point across will end badly.
The fact that you are attacking 'rainbow' rigs is enough,they are someones pride and joy,where as im looking at _manufactured_ kit and not liking it.

There is a difference.

Im glad you like your rig,be pretty pointless if you didnt tbf.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Oh dear, this guy has opened up a can of worms that he wont know how to deal with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mate, quit while the going is still good


And the worse that can happen is? "Oh no, I have a different opinion than the OCN populous! Attack!!!"

Anyway, on to the pics so you guys can find stuff you don't like and use it to hurt my feelings -







Yes, awful pics, but there's something else you guys can scrutinize.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Differences of opinion are fine,we get that a lot here,but attacking other members to get your point across will end badly.
> The fact that you are attacking 'rainbow' rigs is enough,they are someones pride and joy,where as im looking at _manufactured_ kit and not liking it.
> There is a difference.
> Im glad you like your rig,be pretty pointless if you didnt tbf.


So I can't have negative opinions about rainbow rigs, but everyone else can have negative opinions on gold themed boards? Not following your logic here dude, no offense. Just because my opinion is different, it's not allowed? I don't think I was the one who started calling things chav...but maybe my short term memory is going or something.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And the worse that can happen is? "Oh no, I have a different opinion than the OCN populous! Attack!!!"
> Anyway, on to the pics so you guys can find stuff you don't like and use it to hurt my feelings -
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, awful pics, but there's something else you guys can scrutinize.
> So I can't have negative opinions about rainbow rigs, but everyone else can have negative opinions on gold themed boards? Not following your logic here dude, no offense. Just because my opinion is different, it's not allowed? I don't think I was the one who started calling things chav...but maybe my short term memory is going or something.


I swear we have the same mobo, but your heatsinks look different than mine, did you pull the Virtu and Z68 badges off?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> And the worse that can happen is? "Oh no, I have a different opinion than the OCN populous! Attack!!!"
> Anyway, on to the pics so you guys can find stuff you don't like and use it to hurt my feelings -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, awful pics, but there's something else you guys can scrutinize.
> So I can't have negative opinions about rainbow rigs, but everyone else can have negative opinions on gold themed boards? Not following your logic here dude, no offense. Just because my opinion is different, it's not allowed? I don't think I was the one who started calling things chav...but maybe my short term memory is going or something.


Very clean, I like the black tubing....what's all the huffing and puffing about


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiaBia*
> 
> OK maybe off topic...but what the hell is "chav"? Damn I'm outta touch lol


Don't feel bad I had to google it. I didn't know what it was either and to be quite frank I can't believe the term is being thrown around in this way on a public forum.

who knows maybe my understanding is wrong


----------



## Phelan

Just curious, does anyone know if there's any plumbing or gas fittings or tubing that can be used in lieu of the usual stuff? Just trying to look around at options...


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Very clean, I like the black tubing....what's all the huffing and puffing about


Thanks! The huffing and puffing was basically because I would probably rock that ECS board, and by others calling it "chav", they in turn are implying that I must also be "chav" if I would buy one. I argued the fact that most of the builds on here are much more gaudy then one featuring that motherboard would be...and people didn't like that. Also, "chav" is a word I would never use, I jsut happened to know it's meaning from this website. That's why I put it in quotes all the time. I believe it's a UK slang term or something. You'd never hear over here in person...at least I haven't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I swear we have the same mobo, but your heatsinks look different than mine, did you pull the Virtu and Z68 badges off?


Yep, they are actually just glued on there and come off quite easily with little to no residue from the glue. The badges are thin pieces of aluminum or something and get destroyed though when you remove them. Maybe if you're more careful than I was you might be able to save them though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Just curious, does anyone know if there's any plumbing or gas fittings or tubing that can be used in lieu of the usual stuff? Just trying to look around at options...


My setup uses automotive heater hose, and it works excellent. Cheap, durable...I've been using it for years with zero issues. I was told you can remove the white lettering that is on some of it with Acetone (or probably any type of paint removers...just wipe clean right afterwards)...I think CyberDruid informed me of that, way back.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Thanks! The huffing and puffing was basically because I would probably rock that ECS board, and by others calling it "chav", they in turn are implying that I must also be "chav" if I would buy one. I argued the fact that most of the builds on here are much more gaudy then one featuring that motherboard would be...and people didn't like that. Also, "chav" is a word I would never use, I jsut happened to know it's meaning from this website. That's why I put it in quotes all the time. I believe it's a UK slang term or something. You'd never hear over here in person...at least I haven't.
> Yep, they are actually just glued on there and come off quite easily with little to no residue from the glue. The badges are thin pieces of aluminum or something and get destroyed though when you remove them. Maybe if you're more careful than I was you might be able to save them though.


Ahh I see. I've never heard of "chav" myself....but I highly doubt B-Neg calling the board out like what, would also at the same time try to imply you are "chav" as well. Yes he's quick to call something ugly and speak his mind, but again that's his own opinion, but I really doubt he would ever try to personally attack someone.
Sorry to continue with the







But coming from someone who just jumped in and saw what's been going on the past few pages, that's my opinion on it. Yea he called the board ugly/chav....but no I don't think it was meant to be a personal attack on anyone.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Thanks! The huffing and puffing was basically because I would probably rock that ECS board, and by others calling it "chav", they in turn are implying that I must also be "chav" if I would buy one. I argued the fact that most of the builds on here are much more gaudy then one featuring that motherboard would be...and people didn't like that. Also, "chav" is a word I would never use, I jsut happened to know it's meaning from this website. That's why I put it in quotes all the time. I believe it's a UK slang term or something. You'd never hear over here in person...at least I haven't.
> Yep, they are actually just glued on there and come off quite easily with little to no residue from the glue. The badges are thin pieces of aluminum or something and get destroyed though when you remove them. Maybe if you're more careful than I was you might be able to save them though.
> My setup uses automotive heater hose, and it works excellent. Cheap, durable...I've been using it for years with zero issues. I was told you can remove the white lettering that is on some of it with Acetone (or probably any type of paint removers...just wipe clean right afterwards)...I think CyberDruid informed me of that, way back.


Dude lighten up. I'd rock that ECS board too, looks cool to me. Couldn't care less if others find it tacky and certainly wouldn't go around insulting other rigs (especially B Neg's considering they're, you know, kind of awesome)....


----------



## superericla

Well then, that escalated quickly. Anyhow, this thread could use more pictures of builds and less arguments.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Thanks! The huffing and puffing was basically because I would probably rock that ECS board, and by others calling it "chav", they in turn are implying that I must also be "chav" if I would buy one. I argued the fact that most of the builds on here are much more gaudy then one featuring that motherboard would be...and people didn't like that. Also, "chav" is a word I would never use, I jsut happened to know it's meaning from this website. That's why I put it in quotes all the time. I believe it's a UK slang term or something. You'd never hear over here in person...at least I haven't.
> Yep, they are actually just glued on there and come off quite easily with little to no residue from the glue. The badges are thin pieces of aluminum or something and get destroyed though when you remove them. Maybe if you're more careful than I was you might be able to save them though.
> My setup uses automotive heater hose, and it works excellent. Cheap, durable...I've been using it for years with zero issues. I was told you can remove the white lettering that is on some of it with Acetone (or probably any type of paint removers...just wipe clean right afterwards)...I think CyberDruid informed me of that, way back.


All i have to say is that im 100% sure that the term was used as a joke, and was not meant to offend anyone whatsoever-least of all you mate-lighten up









Its like the term Ghetto mod-no one is trying to offend people that live in such areas









I have very rarely found anyone personally insulting people in this forum-those sort of people dont last long here.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I cant see any gold in there at all....

You are attacking peoples work and effort,while im talking about products.
If you cant see the difference then thats your issue.
You could say you like the board and leave it at that,but you started getting personal and attacking members work to justify your own opinion.

Critique products all you like,just dont start being offensive about other peoples work


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Pretty much yep. Fine to insult a product you don't like. Not fine to insult people or their efforts. Now constructive criticism is welcome but not in an insulting manner...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well then, that escalated quickly. Anyhow, this thread could use more pictures of builds and less arguments.


Agreed.
I don't have any updated pics from my build...but I do have some sleeving that's going in my water cooled build...so semi relevant to the thread? It's 550 Paracord, very nice stuff IMO.


----------



## hammerforged

Heres some pics for viewing pleasure


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Agreed.
> I don't have any updated pics from my build...but I do have some sleeving that's going in my water cooled build...so semi relevant to the thread? It's 550 Paracord, very nice stuff IMO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Having used MDPC and 550 cord,i have to say paracord wins out for feel and looks.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Agreed.
> I don't have any updated pics from my build...but I do have some sleeving that's going in my water cooled build...so semi relevant to the thread? It's 550 Paracord, very nice stuff IMO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's the same paracord (same color as well) that I used in my build. It's really easy to work with and I like the feel and look of it. It's also dirt cheap compared to most other kinds of sleeving (MDPC, etc.).


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Heres some pics for viewing pleasure
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


AC blocks....nom nom nom









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Having used MDPC and 550 cord,i have to say paracord wins out for feel and looks.


Very interesting to hear you say that....never touched MDPC before so I wouldn't know. I'm excited to get to work with it.


----------



## morencyam

Got my rig all cleaned out and rebuilt with GT AP-00 fans replacing CM R4s. I added an LED strip behind the res too for some added visuals. The new fans+homemade shroud seemed to actually drops temps a few degrees at ~400rpm slower than the old R4s I had in there. GTs are running ~1400rpm and R4s were 1800-2000. I also switched from pull to push, so that might have helped a little bit too. And less noise. Overall, I'm extremely happy with these GTs.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> It's like this - if I said the Honda Civic is a chav car, I would in turn be insulting everyone who owns Civic. No more arguing though, I guess I'll just have to agree to disagree, because I don't understand the difference. Sorry guys, here's some pics to keep things going - a closer-up of my retro-fitted Apogee GT (and removed badge Asrock E3 G3 for Rickles) -
> 
> [IMG
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ALT="100_2579.JPG"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/963643/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


So what you're saying is guilt by association. So if I said I don't like the matte neoprene tubing you used, does that mean I in turn don't like you as a person? Seems to be some flaws in that reasoning, don't you think?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So what you are saying is there is no gold in your 'gold' rig? except for a few caps?
You like gold but removed nearly all traces of it?
You are trolling Yes?

A Honda Civic is not chav but a Honda civic with big gold wheels and spoilers all over it is very much chav.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dear God.....that board......so chav..........
> I dont dig the gold at all,seeing that its a ECS board has only sealed its fate.


I like the board ! It´s extremly rare and nice looking imo...something special. It surely polarizes, like russians which often shows that they are rich with gold stuff in the public and other status items - it´s ok for me as well









We can see black boards and black / red or black /blue builds at "every corner" in the forums. Its nice but nothing new anymore. it´s kind of boring to me..you know. , I already had all these colors used in previuous rigs and i´m always want something new !








I own 6 or 7 rigs atm and they have all different color schemes


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> I like the board ! It´s extremly rare and nice looking...something special. It surely polarizses
> We can see black boards and black / red or black /blue builds at "every corner" it´s kind of boring to me you know. , I already had all these colors used in previuous rigs and i´m always want something new !


Bundy....rare? Yes.
Thats where we part ways tho.

New is good,black blue and red have been done to death,but im not keen for gold. Gun metal,blued metal even copper,but gold leaves me cold

But i like DiNoc so what do i know.....


----------



## 218689

new watercooling loop up and runing, testing temps(idle)









then i opened the window










Satisfied with the results. Compared to my old loop that had almost twice the radiator capacity the difference is 2-3°C

Norway


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's like this - if I said the Honda Civic is a chav car, I would in turn be insulting everyone who owns Civic. No more arguing though, I guess I'll just have to agree to disagree, because I don't understand the difference. Sorry guys, here's some pics to keep things going - a closer-up of my retro-fitted Apogee GT
> 
> 
> (and removed badge Asrock E3 G3 for Rickles) -
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT* -
> If you called the neoprene tubing chav, then yes, I would take it as an insult, actually. Seems to be some flaws in your reading comprehension.


Looks good, have you thought about routing the PCIe power out with the 24 pin above the gpu, would show all of the GeForce logo there.

I am really tempted to paint the mobo sinks white and purple...


----------



## Michalius

Your face is Chav. Sup.









The inspiration for my white and green (besides being my favorite two colors together) was these guys:





It's funny, because Adidas in the states isn't really associated with that group of people. I think it's the sports/soccer connection, as soccer is lower than tertiary in importance. That element in the states is more commonly associated with Basketball (inner city), and Football/Hunting (rural). I think the equivalent of a US 'Chav' build would be Camo.


----------



## BeardedJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bundy....rare? Yes.
> Thats where we part ways tho.
> New is good,black blue and red have been done to death,but im not keen for gold. Gun metal,blued metal even copper,but gold leaves me cold
> But i like DiNoc so what do i know.....


Gun metal & blue is going to be my next colour scheme







Snagged a brand new Gigabyte P67A_UD5-B3 for £20 a month back and it's setting the tone for my new build which I'm currently working on. Sure it's not a new board nor was it ever the best but it's sure as hell worth the money I spent on it. In time some nice water features to match will also be added


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Looks good, have you thought about routing the PCIe power out with the 24 pin above the gpu, would show all of the GeForce logo there.
> I am really tempted to paint the mobo sinks white and purple...


That's actually an old pic, before cable routing was performed. The pics I posted before those ones are current ones. I didn't run it with the 24-pin, but I went up and over the GPU, with some Velcro straps to hold them in place. For the exact reason you stated - so you could see the GeForce logo, as well as clean it up a bit for better airflow to the GPU area. I'm sure it wouldn't harm anything to paint the sinks, but I think they are just plastic push-pins holding them on, which may or may not hold as tight the second time around. This post here - http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/31950#post_18600822


----------



## Phelan

I'm thinking of doing a gold and camo build. What do you guys think?







. In all seriousness though, let change the subject back to something we can all better enjoy - getting our rigs wet!!! AH, I **** that tubing. Is it 3/8"x 1/2" or another size?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Agreed.
> I don't have any updated pics from my build...but I do have some sleeving that's going in my water cooled build...so semi relevant to the thread? It's 550 Paracord, very nice stuff IMO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have the hardest time in the world getting the paracord to stay w/ the shrink (FTW-PC). I thought about going w/ adhesive lined shrink but I never got around and I just gave up on sleeving my last few psu(s). I haven't been around the sleeve thread in a long time since my work sometimes doesn't meet the high standards of some members who frequent there







. Anyways, I do have 3:1 shrink and i've used smaller diameter shrink and it doesn't help









Sorry to go off topic....here's something to pull it back on topic







:


----------



## Jorvin

some parts just waiting to be put in a case


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sorry to go off topic....here's something to pull it back on topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Looking good werm. Aren't you missing a GPU though?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> some parts just waiting to be put in a case


Looks like you have some pretty nice stuff there. What case are you going to be using?


----------



## NostraD

I'm fairly new to the OCN community, and I joined because of the multitude of good people here that have helped me out over the years. It seems the old addage however of one bad apple seems to spoil the barrel may be true. BNegative, because you moderate this forum, are you exempt from the rules or guidelines? I have just read 3 pages of you bashing someone, which to me is not only off topic, but immature and unprofessional. I don't care who is right or wrong or who started it...I already raised my kids and have heard it all. I have just come to expect more from the OCN members. This WC thread is a haven for me - an escape - a measure or relaxation from an extremely stressful career. Quite frankly, I just dont want to hear/read this childish bickering. This is not how I like to spend what little leisure time I have. I can imagine that in your arrogant nature you would bluntly and pompously tell me to then leave this forum, and I would surely oblige. I would ask you to reconsider your position however, and consider the benefit this forum provides for thousands of water coolers and potential water coolers world wide. Your feelings as well as your skill and passion (as you undeniably have both) extend beyond the monitor in front of you. Your bodys of work in the water cooling community touches lives. Your words have the potential to destroy all the good you have created. Thank you and the other members of OCN for all your contributions and may we all stay on course to things greater than what we think of ourselves.
Regards,
NostraD


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Looking good werm. Aren't you missing a GPU though?
> Looks like you have some pretty nice stuff there. What case are you going to be using?


4th block is pending delivery







. I'm also waiting on the new cpu block. These blocks are super heavy so the backplates I made will help a lot. Eventually when i get a bit of cash, I'll get some EK back plates. I was able to setup them up w/ DD 480 blocks (which are similar to the 580) in the past.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I'm fairly new to the OCN community, and I joined because of the multitude of good people here that have helped me out over the years. It seems the old addage however of one bad apple seems to spoil the barrel may be true. BNegative, because you moderate this forum, are you exempt from the rules or guidelines? I have just read 3 pages of you bashing someone, which to me is not only off topic, but immature and unprofessional. I don't care who is right or wrong or who started it...I already raised my kids and have heard it all. I have just come to expect more from the OCN members. This WC thread is a haven for me - an escape - a measure or relaxation from an extremely stressful career. Quite frankly, I just dont want to hear/read this childish bickering. This is not how I like to spend what little leisure time I have. I can imagine that in your arrogant nature you would bluntly and pompously tell me to then leave this forum, and I would surely oblige. I would ask you to reconsider your position however, and consider the benefit this forum provides for thousands of water coolers and potential water coolers world wide. Your feelings as well as your skill and passion (as you undeniably have both) extend beyond the monitor in front of you. Your bodys of work in the water cooling community touches lives. Your words have the potential to destroy all the good you have created. Thank you and the other members of OCN for all your contributions and may we all stay on course to things greater than what we think of ourselves.
> Regards,
> NostraD


Quote me the post where i bashed anyone please?

Bear in mind that the Aaron has edited his posts while i have let my comments stand.

I have never and will never ask anyone to leave over a difference of opinion,Wermad and myself have had many differences of opinion,doesnt mean i dont value his input or experience any less.

You need to read what i posted,i have not bashed anyone,i bashed a _product_ which someone else took a reason to bash peoples work in this thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Differences of opinion are fine,we get that a lot here,but attacking other members to get your point across will end badly.
> The fact that you are attacking 'rainbow' rigs is enough,they are someones pride and joy,where as im looking at _manufactured_ kit and not liking it.
> There is a difference.
> Im glad you like your rig,be pretty pointless if you didnt tbf.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 4th block is pending delivery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm also waiting on the new cpu block. These blocks are super heavy so the backplates I made will help a lot. Eventually when i get a bit of cash, I'll get some EK back plates. I was able to setup them up w/ DD 480 blocks (which are similar to the 580) in the past.


What CPU block are you getting? I'd stick with your homemade backplates too. Not sure about you, but I always get more appreciation out of something I made myself rather than something bought. And it just adds that extra custom feel to it since no one else will have one just like that. And no crazy PSU postioning mod this time around? lol


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote me the post where i bashed anyone please?
> Bear in mind that the Aaron has edited his posts while i have let my comments stand.
> I have never and will never ask anyone to leave over a difference of opinion,Wermad and myself have had many differences of opinion,doesnt mean i dont value his input or experience any less.
> You need to read what i posted,i have not bashed anyone,i bashed a _product_ which someone else took a reason to bash peoples work in this thread.


You can see my edits I am pretty sure, nothing was edited out, just added in. But yeah, I think I made a new friend. And you also edited, it states at the bottom of your last post. Can we end this pissing contest already? Or shall we continue to piss everyone off... I'm not hiding anything, none of my posts have disappeared or changed, except to add something further. But yeah, let's start throwing some more baseless accusations around, cause you know, that's what I would do. Show me one thing that was removed from my posts...I have a feeling you might have a tough time with that. I am out of pics to post, so hopefully this ends soon. I will continue to defend myself though, if necessary. So if people want this to continue, make another statement where I need to defend myself. Otherwise, please keep this thread moving. Thanks.

And fine, to everyone, I don't hate rainbow rigs, just the products that allow them to be that way. There, better?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I'm fairly new to the OCN community, and I joined because of the multitude of good people here that have helped me out over the years. It seems the old addage however of one bad apple seems to spoil the barrel may be true. BNegative, because you moderate this forum, are you exempt from the rules or guidelines? I have just read 3 pages of you bashing someone, which to me is not only off topic, but immature and unprofessional. I don't care who is right or wrong or who started it...I already raised my kids and have heard it all. I have just come to expect more from the OCN members. This WC thread is a haven for me - an escape - a measure or relaxation from an extremely stressful career. Quite frankly, I just dont want to hear/read this childish bickering. This is not how I like to spend what little leisure time I have. I can imagine that in your arrogant nature you would bluntly and pompously tell me to then leave this forum, and I would surely oblige. I would ask you to reconsider your position however, and consider the benefit this forum provides for thousands of water coolers and potential water coolers world wide. Your feelings as well as your skill and passion (as you undeniably have both) extend beyond the monitor in front of you. Your bodys of work in the water cooling community touches lives. Your words have the potential to destroy all the good you have created. Thank you and the other members of OCN for all your contributions and may we all stay on course to things greater than what we think of ourselves.
> Regards,
> NostraD


Thanks for the kind words, Hope you can continue to keep your stay, and let us spark your inspiration,
and continue to service you the best that we can. I hope you can look past this and hope to see you around.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Looking good werm. Aren't you missing a GPU though?
> Looks like you have some pretty nice stuff there. What case are you going to be using?


Ld Cooling Pc-V8


----------



## yanks8981

No more complaining, only pictures of awesome rigs so I can have inspiration!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Ld Cooling Pc-V8












The club is in my sig.

Have you tried going heatshinkless Werm? I used a dot of superglue to hold my Silent Pro paracord on...
I had to shrink the doubled side,no way where they going in the pin slot together


Dont even go there with the paracord colours,i had a brief design thing in my head which im the first to admit is not everyones taste.


----------



## phillyd

Well, I did my photoshoot, took my PC apart, and every picture was solid white. All I have is a cell phone picture of the final interior with coolant. But it's all done.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't spend so much on Phobya kit unless you can get a solid deal for them. Yate Loons are just as good imho, $4 each before shipping and with a can of Universal Advanced Crimon Gloss you can make the blades closer resemble the Red in your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're her e in the states get some Duralene($ .65 a foot) and go with Mayhems dye. The Dye guys can help you get the right kind of dye if I didn't suggest a good one. I don't use dyes an never have so I wouldn't know about that stuff tbh. But if you're gonna do dye may as well go with Duralene from Sidewinder. It still is prone to leaching like everything else but at $.65 a foot it's reasonable until we figure out the best tubing for 24/7 operation with temps of 30c or higher. There are no colored tubing that is not prone to the stuff sad to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


IMO Phobya is underrated in the WC world. sure they aren't the top performer, but they are quite good for a relatively good price. (especially some rads)
i'm in Israel, i.e. everything would be bought from PPCS (since their prices are great and shipping looks good enough) so please only recommend thing from there. (unless you can recommend a better etailer for international sales, especially for Israel) again, (from ppcs) the Clearflex 60 looks like my best bet since everyone says it would plasticize the least out of all. when i considered red masterkleer some in here said that it leeches, while others said the opposite so i'm not sure on them. (though colored tubing makes it a bit easier money wise and simplicity wise)

and another consideration for me was to use the Corsair AF140 fan for the 280 rad ,since it's fpi isn't high, but i'm not sure that 0.88 pressure is decent even for that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Beware of the Phobya fans. They might come with clear frame, like the one that I have now. Frustrated at first, but since they are not visible in my case I don't bother to return them.


thanks for the heads up, i'll ask PPCS. (or if phillyd would be so kind







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well, I did my photoshoot, took my PC apart, and every picture was solid white. All I have is a cell phone picture of the final interior with coolant. But it's all done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


does your card work without the support?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> What CPU block are you getting? I'd stick with your homemade backplates too. Not sure about you, but I always get more appreciation out of something I made myself rather than something bought. And it just adds that extra custom feel to it since no one else will have one just like that. And no crazy PSU postioning mod this time around? lol


DD M6. Im kinda doing a small tribute to them w/ changing to DD blocks. I'll get the log up and running soon.

I made the backplates from 1/4" acrylic. Its stiff enough to support the heavy DD blocks. The bad news is that i fudge one up w/ the drill. I can make another one...but...I just noticed the top card will not fit the thick backplate w/ the stand offs. Which is good news in itself as I will only need three backplates







. The bottom two cards need the most support so it'll be fine for the bottom three which are the ones unscathed by my manual drilling







.I hope i can still fine some backplates when i get the case.

No crayzy spot for the psu this time around. I had a hard time fitting the two Monsta 360s, squeezing in the 240 Mosta, and then finding a spot for my hdd and ssd(s). I am using a Lian Li psu extender which helps a lot. One thing about the CM psu is the fixed cables are optimally positioned so I can squeeze in the 240 next to it.

Im waiting on some Enzotech 90s and the screws/standoffs for the backplates. I'm crossing my fingers the cpu block arrives by Saturday. The ebay seller said he shipped it on Monday but the tracking shows the post received it today







.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The club is in my sig.
> Have you tried going heatshinkless Werm? I used a dot of superglue to hold my Silent Pro paracord on...
> I had to shrink the doubled side,no way where they going in the pin slot together
> 
> Dont even go there with the paracord colours,i had a brief design thing in my head which im the first to admit is not everyones taste.


nice, your build was one of the reason i went with that case


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well, I did my photoshoot, took my PC apart, and every picture was solid white. All I have is a cell phone picture of the final interior with coolant. But it's all done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does your card work without the support?
Click to expand...

It doesn't actually work at all. broken Cap atm. It sags a lot without the support though.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The club is in my sig.
> Have you tried going heatshinkless Werm? I used a dot of superglue to hold my Silent Pro paracord on...
> I had to shrink the doubled side,no way where they going in the pin slot together
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont even go there with the paracord colours,i had a brief design thing in my head which im the first to admit is not everyones taste.


Shrinkless is exactly the look I was going for....Lutro0 just recently uploaded a very helpful guide to YouTube.
Those colors!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well, I did my photoshoot, took my PC apart, and every picture was solid white. All I have is a cell phone picture of the final interior with coolant. But it's all done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Photoshoot, with the cell phone?








Actually doesn't look that bad though...


----------



## Hanoverfist

You guys are all Mad.. Orange is the new king of the Hill. Lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well, I did my photoshoot, took my PC apart, and every picture was solid white. All I have is a cell phone picture of the final interior with coolant. But it's all done.


Nice work on the block,I like it white.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Shrinkless is exactly the look I was going for....Lutro0 just recently uploaded a very helpful guide to YouTube.
> Those colors!


But look at her in all her glory!



Yeah,i know right?

No way am i taking all that off.


----------



## Fuganater

New case for my next project. Will an epic water cooling loop in it.

M8 + Pedestal


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> New case for my next project. Will an epic water cooling loop in it.
> M8 + Pedestal
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Hey!





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I hate you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> New case for my next project. Will an epic water cooling loop in it.
> M8 + Pedestal


Knew it would happen sooner or later.....


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> New case for my next project. Will an epic water cooling loop in it.
> M8 + Pedestal


Nice that will be massive


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Found some nice 10mm Pushfits....

http://catalogue.camozzi.com/Explorer.aspx?u_code=4_1_5_36_0&import_key=6512+10-1%2f4-M&type=Content


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can make one for yourself cheaper and not have to worry about paying shipping and possible damages during the shipping process. A couple pieced of perspecs and some plastics cement is all you need.. Just make sure to use the cement in a well ventilated area, wear a respirator when cutting with a tool and always remember eye protection. Go nuts with it and lets see what you can do when you put your mind to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I just got informed that I can use a laser-cut bench at the college workshop (with the proper authorization and bureaucracy filled in of course).
All I need is the measurements and enough patience to fiddle with SolidWorks to make the templates for the machine to cut...
I'm thinking about using either brushed aluminum or piano-black acrylic...

And as soon as I get my hands on some NZXT extensions for the GPU, I'm going to paracord that *****...
Black and purple, to go along with the theme of the build.

Also seriously considering a backplate for my 6970... maybe acrylic too...
Again, measurements = nightmare. Anyone has a template for the screwhole's positions on that board?


----------



## Penryn

Cleaned the thread. Don't want to see any more off topic posts, name calling, etc.

Let's keep it clean people.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just got informed that I can use a laser-cut bench at the college workshop (with the proper authorization and bureaucracy filled in of course).
> All I need is the measurements and enough patience to fiddle with SolidWorks to make the templates for the machine to cut...
> I'm thinking about using either brushed aluminum or piano-black acrylic...
> And as soon as I get my hands on some NZXT extensions for the GPU, I'm going to paracord that *****...
> 
> 
> Black and purple
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> , to go along with the theme of the build.
> Also seriously considering a backplate for my 6970... maybe acrylic too...
> Again, measurements = nightmare. Anyone has a template for the screwhole's positions on that board?










purple


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Photoshoot, with the cell phone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually doesn't look that bad though...


Nah I used my friend's SLR cam, took that photo last night with my Lumia 920 cam. it's great for a cell phone.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nice work on the block,I like it white.


Thanks!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> It doesn't actually work at all. broken Cap atm. It sags a lot without the support though.


so you support it even though it has a broken cap?









anyway, if its the DD 7970 block then it weighs like 1.3 KG (which i find a lot, the Koolance block, though the lightest, is @ less than 700 grams).

and how did you break that cap?


----------



## phillyd

did it removing a broken water block hah. and it's broken but fixable, also I could damage the PCI-E Slot


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> did it removing a broken water block hah. and it's broken but fixable, also I could damage the PCI-E Slot


*The Dark Side of Water Cooling*









The backplate doesn't help? (and how are you going to fix that?)


----------



## kyismaster

Anyone think they can recommend the easiest way to install a Drain plug?

My calculations seem to cost me ~ 40 for just a drain plug lol.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> did it removing a broken water block hah. and it's broken but fixable, also I could damage the PCI-E Slot
> 
> 
> 
> *The Dark Side of Water Cooling*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The backplate doesn't help? (and how are you going to fix that?)
Click to expand...

Phelan is going to buy it and fix it for himself. and the backplate helps but I'm a perfectionist, I don't mind the look of the support. the sagging, however, looks bad to me.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> Yeah,i know right?
> No way am i taking all that off.


FUnky colours. I am wondering what kind of hardware that will be used with?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> FUnky colours. I am wondering what kind of hardware that will be used with?


It was going in the SR2 originally.....now its my donkey PSU for Loop filling and general testing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Anyone think they can recommend the easiest way to install a Drain plug?
> My calculations seem to cost me ~ 40 for just a drain plug lol.


You can just use a ball valve on any free port,connect a length of hose on a barb when you want to empty and open the tap up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Anyone think they can recommend the easiest way to install a Drain plug?
> My calculations seem to cost me ~ 40 for just a drain plug lol.


T connector and a plug


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> T connector and a plug


pretty much thats what I had in mind.

40 seems a bit unreasonable lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Well, I did my photoshoot, took my PC apart, and every picture was solid white. All I have is a cell phone picture of the final interior with coolant. But it's all done.


Looks awesomesauce phillyd!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't spend so much on Phobya kit unless you can get a solid deal for them. Yate Loons are just as good imho, $4 each before shipping and with a can of Universal Advanced Crimon Gloss you can make the blades closer resemble the Red in your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're her e in the states get some Duralene($ .65 a foot) and go with Mayhems dye. The Dye guys can help you get the right kind of dye if I didn't suggest a good one. I don't use dyes an never have so I wouldn't know about that stuff tbh. But if you're gonna do dye may as well go with Duralene from Sidewinder. It still is prone to leaching like everything else but at $.65 a foot it's reasonable until we figure out the best tubing for 24/7 operation with temps of 30c or higher. There are no colored tubing that is not prone to the stuff sad to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO Phobya is underrated in the WC world. sure they aren't the top performer, but they are quite good for a relatively good price. (especially some rads)
> i'm in Israel, i.e. everything would be bought from PPCS (since their prices are great and shipping looks good enough) so please only recommend thing from there. (unless you can recommend a better etailer for international sales, especially for Israel) again, (from ppcs) the Clearflex 60 looks like my best bet since everyone says it would plasticize the least out of all. when i considered red masterkleer some in here said that it leeches, while others said the opposite so i'm not sure on them. (though colored tubing makes it a bit easier money wise and simplicity wise)
> 
> and another consideration for me was to use the Corsair AF140 fan for the 280 rad ,since it's fpi isn't high, but i'm not sure that 0.88 pressure is decent even for that.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Beware of the Phobya fans. They might come with clear frame, like the one that I have now. Frustrated at first, but since they are not visible in my case I don't bother to return them.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thanks for the heads up, i'll ask PPCS. (or if phillyd would be so kind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Phobya is pretty good nothing wrong with them except for Price. That's my only issue with Phobya. Similar performance, higher cost doesn't seem right to me.









You can get Yate Loons from PPCs'. That's where I got my 120x20s' in High Speed Silent. They're the only supplier of my current fans. Nobody else carries anything with a higher RPM rating in Low Profile 120x20.







I'm in the States so I normally recommend a National Vendor without thinking. But anything I recommend is usually stocked by PPCs' so you're good on that front.









I like PPCs' cause I can generally get them to get me something if I truly need it, from one of their suppliers. So you might see if they would be able to get Duralene for you. Not sure if Sidewinders would ship to Israel since I'm over here and never had cause to inquire in the past.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just got informed that I can use a laser-cut bench at the college workshop (with the proper authorization and bureaucracy filled in of course).
> All I need is the measurements and enough patience to fiddle with SolidWorks to make the templates for the machine to cut...
> I'm thinking about using either brushed aluminum or piano-black acrylic...
> And as soon as I get my hands on some NZXT extensions for the GPU, I'm going to paracord that *****...
> 
> 
> Black and purple
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> , to go along with the theme of the build.
> Also seriously considering a backplate for my 6970... maybe acrylic too...
> Again, measurements = nightmare. Anyone has a template for the screwhole's positions on that board?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> purple
Click to expand...

Yeah my lady likes purple so when I get some funds built up I'ma start in on buildin her an her daughter a reasonably nice zippy system. This way they won't feel the need to be on mine. Not that I would refuse my lovely generous woman Computer time on my Sig Rig. She just bought me some more Monsoons to finish out my Fittings so I can sell my EKs' which have been spoken for. So ya... well anyway I'm gonna build a FM2 system and probably get a Cooler Master or Corsair AIO cooler to keep it cool. Gonna use it as a teaching rig so I can show them what it is I do while we do it together. Eventually I want to customize it and have it set up in the Living Room as the Media Center so they can do whatever they want to their hearts content. Watch movies, do homework etc. Gonna set it up so the Movies are on her PW protected Profile and her daughter has her own open profile. Gonna be doing this sometime over the Winter if I can.

Gonna Be Mini ITX(for the daughter's personal system when she's older) for now. So it's gonna get swallowed up in that new HAF X SB case but it'll give us alot of room to manuever to customize it. The top grill is gonna get Dremeled, no sense in having a 200 up top when the system won't get hot enough to require a large fan Exhausting. Gonna mount a Purple Plexi top there I think. Either that or some kind of floral pattern laser engraved. And no my build is not on hold. I still intend on finishing it. I hope to sleeve all cables in MDPC and eventually put a 240 loop in the system. One step at a time though since this is a teaching rig.









... On a side note, I can't leave you guys alone for a minnit can I? I'm gone less than 24 hours an you crazy kids start fighting amongst yourselfs.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Having used MDPC and 550 cord,i have to say paracord wins out for feel and looks.


The problem w/ paracord is that it doesn't hold a shape. It is almost impossible to get really great cable management with it.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The problem w/ paracord is that it doesn't hold a shape. It is almost impossible to get really great cable management with it.


also, it doesn't fit around sata cables


----------



## wermad

$6:


$8:


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Found some nice 10mm Pushfits....
> http://catalogue.camozzi.com/Explorer.aspx?u_code=4_1_5_36_0&import_key=6512+10-1%2f4-M&type=Content
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are nice.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The problem w/ paracord is that it doesn't hold a shape. It is almost impossible to get really great cable management with it.


See,I struggled with mdpc as its too stiff...

XD

It was easier to use tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> also, it doesn't fit around sata cables


Also a valid point but im not really worried about that tbh,I rarely do the SATA cables anyway.


----------



## wermad

Man, now you guys are tempting me to sleeve my tube....







. Hmmmm...FurryLetters TechFlex.....must resist.....


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> $6:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $8:


and 10 dollar shipping


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Man, now you guys are tempting me to sleeve my tube....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Hmmmm...FurryLetters TechFlex.....must resist.....


Don't fight it. Just give in. It is the latest and greatest.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> and 10 dollar shipping


What you smoking??!?!?!??!?!
















$2.95 Usps first class mail
















I got this from ppcs.com

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Don't fight it. Just give in. It is the latest and greatest.


:I should









I can buy a roll of 10' from Frys for $7 or order 25' from FurryLetters ~$14.....Hmmm get it now or wait but get more...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What you smoking??!?!?!??!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $2.95 Usps first class mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got this from ppcs.com
> :I should
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can buy a roll of 10' from Frys for $7 or order 25' from FurryLetters ~$14.....Hmmm get it now or wait but get more...










I live in florida and PPCs charges me 10 dollars on anything.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I live in florida and PPCs charges me 10 dollars on anything.


Wow, really? I punched in a FL zip code and it did give me that. Is that sales tax?

edit: try jabtech or swc


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, really? I punched in a FL zip code and it did give me that. Is that sales tax?


Possibly, Though I live ~ 1m from the international airport if that counts as anything, is It hard to get to me? lols.

Sales tax is ~ 6.5% , though im sure the airport charges 11.5%

gas costs 6 dollars a gallon in this area.


----------



## phillyd

Remember there's a 5.5% discount for ocn members, OCN55.

Kyismaster, idk why your shipping is so high.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Possibly, Though I live ~ 1m from the international airport if that counts as anything, is It hard to get to me? lols.
> Sales tax is ~ 6.5% , though im sure the airport charges 11.5%
> gas costs 6 dollars a gallon in this area.


wow, try jabtech, sidewindercomputers, frozencpu, svc, koolertek, etc.

edit: jabtech has them but in black. they also have a discount 5% off code: "facebook"


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> wow, try jabtech, sidewindercomputers, frozencpu, svc, koolertek, etc.


jab tech has it, but, they don't have a 3/8 plug. ahah.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> jab tech has it, but, they don't have a 3/8 plug. ahah.


Lame









Maybe PhillyD can find out why its so high???? I"m across the country and its showing me $2.95 and I'm logged into my account


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe PhillyD can find out why its so high???? I"m across the country and its showing me $2.95 and I'm logged into my account


I updated it to the zip next to me and it says 3.25. . . . + florida tax.

totaling 21 dollars.


----------



## phillyd

What city do you live in?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> What city do you live in?


Im on the border of Kissimmee, ST. Cloud, Orlando, its a mess.

Im also between Lake Nona and Lake Hart. lol

my address says orlando, but orlando is kinda far away from me.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Man, now you guys are tempting me to sleeve my tube....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Hmmmm...FurryLetters TechFlex.....must resist.....


I tried it. I had a lot of trouble with it with my bitspower compression fittings. The tolerance of the compression nut is just too tight to allow the extra room for the sleeving. Other compression fittings may differ. Barbs would work very well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> I tried it. I had a lot of trouble with it with my bitspower compression fittings. The tolerance of the compression nut is just too tight to allow the extra room for the sleeving. Other compression fittings may differ. Barbs would work very well.


Thinking of ending the sleeve w/ some shrink which should have a better chance of being fitted with the top piece of the Enzotechs.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thinking of ending the sleeve w/ some shrink which should have a better chance of being fitted with the top piece of the Enzotechs.


Could one not facilitate 3/8"x1/2" tubing and 3/8"x5/8" compression fittings to do this?


----------



## phillyd

It would be risky.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Could one not facilitate 3/8"x1/2" tubing and 3/8"x5/8" compression fittings to do this?


Compression fittings by their design will have a hard time squeezing in a bit more than with their od was designed for. Even though the Enzotech were far easier to install compared to the xspc, they still are a tight fit. I'm sure with a bit of elbow grease, you can "influence" them into place


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Compression fittings by their design will have a hard time squeezing in a bit more than with their od was designed for. Even though the Enzotech were far easier to install compared to the xspc, they still are a tight fit. I'm sure with a bit of elbow grease, you can "influence" them into place


Absolutely; I was wondering if the extra 1/8" from using oversized fittings would be enough to squeeze the sleeving on...


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is a work of art!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> I tried it. I had a lot of trouble with it with my bitspower compression fittings. The tolerance of the compression nut is just too tight to allow the extra room for the sleeving. Other compression fittings may differ. Barbs would work very well.


What size sleeving and tubing were you using? As long as sleeving not over top of the compression ring threads it shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Absolutely; I was wondering if the extra 1/8" from using oversized fittings would be enough to squeeze the sleeving on...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What size sleeving and tubing were you using? As long as sleeving not over top of the compression ring threads it shouldn't be a problem.


This. Good high density shouldn't be that thick.

Can't find my caliper to measure the thickness of TechFlex CleanCut


----------



## kyismaster

Whooo! found my parts!

Its like finding treasure, so hard to find anything for 3/8 5/8

Does anyone have a coupon for sidewinder?


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have the hardest time in the world getting the paracord to stay w/ the shrink (FTW-PC). I thought about going w/ adhesive lined shrink but I never got around and I just gave up on sleeving my last few psu(s). I haven't been around the sleeve thread in a long time since my work sometimes doesn't meet the high standards of some members who frequent there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyways, I do have 3:1 shrink and i've used smaller diameter shrink and it doesn't help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to go off topic....here's something to pull it back on topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


I can personally attest to your struggle with shrink and paracord!!


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What size sleeving and tubing were you using? As long as sleeving not over top of the compression ring threads it shouldn't be a problem.


Your tube sleeving is what inspired me to do mine. Looks so good









But I used 3/4" sleeving pulled as tight as I could get it over 3/4" OD tube.

This stuff from sidewinders:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Link



It really just made me really nervous because the couple times I was able to squeeze the compression nut over the sleeve and tubing it never wanted to thread on. It may just be the Bitspower fittings. You can kind of tell in the picture bellow. I ended up having to use electrical tape to get the nut threaded. Ended up taking it all off because the type looked pretty awful.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

I'm planning to go w/ TechFlex 1/2 as it expands to 3/4 so it should be a snug fit on my 5/8 od tube









Only in black though







:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-BRAIDED-EXPANDABLE-SLEEVING-CLEAN-CUT-25ft-/230661544820?pt=Car_Audio_Video&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b47fdb74


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm planning to go w/ TechFlex 1/2 as it expands to 3/4 so it should be a snug fit on my 5/8 od tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only in black though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-BRAIDED-EXPANDABLE-SLEEVING-CLEAN-CUT-25ft-/230661544820?pt=Car_Audio_Video&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b47fdb74


Unfortunately black is pretty much your only choice if you are using tubing larger than 1/2" OD.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> I can personally attest to your struggle with shrink and paracord!!










Yup, its a pita. i've given up on it. Might go back to sleeve but I'm more interested in getting my rig up and running right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Unfortunately black is pretty much your only choice if you are using tubing larger than 1/2" OD.


Yeah, its limited to black. You can always go w/ PET but its sucks tbh


----------



## Plutonium10

Is there any reason a D5 Vario can't/shouldn't be controlled by a fan controller? I bought the pump thinking I would have no controller in my build but now I have a Lamptron FC5v2.


----------



## eskamobob1

hey guys... quick question... ill be building a fully WCed skull traiol setup soon (2x 9775s, NB, SB) and 2x WCed 295s... what kinda rad area would you guys recomend? i have a general idea, but i thought i would ask since i know ill be pushing the limits of what i can fit in my case


----------



## lowfat

Depends on what you are using for fans. If you want it relatively quite I'd suggest 5x120mm worth of radiator as everything you are running is relatively high wattage.


----------



## eskamobob1

5x 120? wow... ok... and i am planning on either AP15s or cougar PWMs... i was thinking more of a long the lines of 120x6 or more (mainly because the 295s are dual GPU cards)


----------



## PTCB

With all the surplus from my build, I've decided to put gf's rig under water.



Should be done soon. Just waiting for a replacement block (GPU). The contact suface is uneven (thought it'd o.k. at first).


----------



## derickwm

Finished for now, more pics in log.


----------



## wermad

No luck selling your gear? Looks sweet









Smaller id tube one the barbs? If not, there's a few pieces a tad short


----------



## derickwm

Pretty much everything is sold, just have a few stragglers left, interested?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> I can personally attest to your struggle with shrink and paracord!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, its a pita. i've given up on it. Might go back to sleeve but I'm more interested in getting my rig up and running right now.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Unfortunately black is pretty much your only choice if you are using tubing larger than 1/2" OD.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, its limited to black. You can always go w/ PET but its sucks tbh
Click to expand...

You'll have to get more shrink but I would suggest preshrinking the cable > slide the Paracord over the shrink and then shrinking over the Para like you normally would do with sleeving. Should lock it up just nicely. Remember that paracord is nylon and that stuff is slippery.









~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

sooo question of the day









to all you D5 fanatics, which D5 variant would be the best to compliment the EK CSQ X-RES?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I would say the vario edition.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would say the vario edition.


on petras, its claiming the vario the same as the swiftech. is that correct?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The vario has one extra speed,the normal d5 is setting 4, the vario goes to 5.
All the D5s are the same pump regardless of what sticker is on it..


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I live in florida and PPCs charges me 10 dollars on anything.


Sucks paying FL taxes, eh?
If you order any litle tidbit items from PPCs that will fit in an envelope, get the First Class Mail shipping, it's a few dollars cheaper and gets to me in North Central Florida as quick as Priority mail. But this option won't even show up on larger orders.
BTW taxes in this county are 7%.









@wermad you can get white Techflex sleeving from Amazon. I just ordered some 3/8" a few days ago for some USB 3.0 cables.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> sooo question of the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to all you D5 fanatics, which D5 variant would be the best to compliment the EK CSQ X-RES?


Either the Swiftech pwm version or the Aquacomputer USB version I'd you can afford to spend the extra money.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Finished for now, more pics in log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Orange!











Great work! Top Shelf Pics in your Log..







Gotta Love that Orange..


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Finished for now, more pics in log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










I'm so jealous of that case. I want an SMH10 with that exact paint job


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Found some nice 10mm Pushfits....
> http://catalogue.camozzi.com/Explorer.aspx?u_code=4_1_5_36_0&import_key=6512+10-1%2f4-M&type=Content


My work is actually a distributor for Camozzi. It's a really good product and you can get straights, elbows or what ever you need. They also use the best tubing retention method, the gripper inside of the fitting doesn't actually cut the tubing, it acts like a chinese finger trap, the harder you pull on the tube, the tighter the connection gets. Most other companies use a method that has teeth enter the tubing wall making the tubing useless after a couple times of placing it in the fitting and removing it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Finished for now, more pics in log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Took long enough........


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks awesomesauce phillyd!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phobya is pretty good nothing wrong with them except for Price. That's my only issue with Phobya. Similar performance, higher cost doesn't seem right to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get Yate Loons from PPCs'. That's where I got my 120x20s' in High Speed Silent. They're the only supplier of my current fans. Nobody else carries anything with a higher RPM rating in Low Profile 120x20.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the States so I normally recommend a National Vendor without thinking. But anything I recommend is usually stocked by PPCs' so you're good on that front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like PPCs' cause I can generally get them to get me something if I truly need it, from one of their suppliers. So you might see if they would be able to get Duralene for you. Not sure if Sidewinders would ship to Israel since I'm over here and never had cause to inquire in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Phobya has the good products on great price, but it is not all of them. i.e. the (simple) LED fans fans are usually pretty good and don't exceed the 10$ range, the rads are simply amazing for the price, but some of the other products may not be well priced. (some of the higher end fans or a few more things)

Is Duralene really that good, even from lets say Clearflex 60?


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Phobya has the good products on great price, but it is not all of them. i.e. the (simple) LED fans fans are usually pretty good and don't exceed the 10$ range, the rads are simply amazing for the price, but some of the other products may not be well priced. (some of the higher end fans or a few more things)
> Is Duralene really that good, even from lets say Clearflex 60?


durelene is awesome, doesn't cloud, is soft but doesn't kink easliy. Plus it's cheap as hell and comes in all sizes.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Durelene has worked great for me so far.

As far as those Phobya blocks go, I must be the only one that finds them rather plain and boring looking...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene has worked great for me so far.
> As far as those Phobya blocks go, I must be the only one that finds them rather plain and boring looking...


Nope you're not the only one.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> durelene is awesome, doesn't cloud, is soft but doesn't kink easliy. Plus it's cheap as hell and comes in all sizes.


So i should Ask PPCS if they could carry out Duralene for me through them? (any idea if they would?)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene has worked great for me so far.
> As far as those Phobya blocks go, I must be the only one that finds them rather plain and boring looking...


they only have a plain CPU block, and IMO its for those stealth loops on a budget. (hard to say that with a straight face in this forum







)


----------



## Goofy Goober

some photos of a little update to my rig. i've changed the waterblock from a Raystorm to a EK Supremacy Plexy+Nicklel, made a parallel link between the GPUs, changed tube with Clearflex60 and filled the loop with Mayhems Pastel "new" Red










hope you like them


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Durelene has worked great for me so far.
> As far as those Phobya blocks go, I must be the only one that finds them rather plain and boring looking...


You are not alone...

Now cue all the righteous indignation...

Phobya is budget orientated and it shows.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Just to be sure, I'm not dissing anybody with a plain and boring system! Don't want to set off another "chav" firestorm....


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are not alone...
> Now cue all the righteous indiganation...
> Phobya is budget orientated and it shows.


*angry post*

I kid.

Yeah, not a fan of their blocks either. I'm glad that there are budget options though.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are not alone...
> Now cue all the righteous indiganation...
> Phobya is budget orientated and it shows.


Phobya is budget, I thought they just had plain looking things









Here in Australia Phobya, XSPC, Koolance, Swiftech, Alphacool and even watercool blocks are with in $5-$10 of each other.

The exemption being XSPC Raystorm S.E. Chrome.


----------



## EnticingSausage

So how do the Heatkiller blocks stack up nowadays?

Was going to pick up an EK supremacy but I love the look of this one http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14014


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work! Top Shelf Pics in your Log..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta Love that Orange..


Thanks man








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so jealous of that case. I want an SMH10 with that exact paint job


Hehe orange ftw
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Took long enough........


Lolz. 2 broken SR-2s is pretty discouraging. Wish I had some duralene tubing though, maybe even some dye. Might have to do another shoot before I leave. I feel...ashamed to have non wc'd GPUs.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe orange ftw


Orange FTW, indeed. I just got my orange painted GT AP-00 fans installed over the weekend. They look amazing in there with the rest of the orange bits


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Orange FTW, indeed. I just got my orange painted GT AP-00 fans installed over the weekend. They look amazing in there with the rest of the orange bits


pitchers pls


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Wish I had some duralene tubing though, maybe even some dye.


Yeah, I kind of want to get some now, it seems like reliable stuff. I like the solid white color of the Primochill LRT I have ready to go in my computer right now, but on the other hand, Duralene with dye might end up being LESS maintenance judging by all the Primochill plasticizer problems I hear about.


----------



## wermad

Anyone planning to water cool one of these suckers???


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I feel...ashamed to have non wc'd GPUs.


You should


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone planning to water cool one of these suckers???


I tossed around the idea, but I want a case to hold more HDDs than this can handle.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> pitchers pls


These are all I have access to right now. I'll get some from difference angles so you can see everything when I get home from work


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone planning to water cool one of these suckers???


I want to just for fun. Maybe next year.


----------



## Rognin

Jees Louise, I leave for four days and there's 500 replies to this thread. I just can't keep up!

I'd like to add that I appreciate Newegg's initiative with our community. I hope they take in the suggestions the enthusiasts make to better align their sales for the rest of 'Merica. There's a lot of talent and knowledge here that can truly change how the avg. consumer goes about its purchases. This is where WE can make a difference!










P.S. USVI ROCKS! (no matter how much I complain about the US).


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone planning to water cool one of these suckers???
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like it has good options for it. Not too easy on the eyes in my opinion. Basically like a test bench with a top from the looks of it. Just give me an LD PC-V4 and I would be happy.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone planning to water cool one of these suckers???


I think this would be a fun case to work on. Definatly has some potential to intall a nice watercooling setup.


----------



## wermad

I would actually go external rads with the HAF XB. But the small footprint and its LAN-able makes it very tempting. Biggest plus: it can fit a full atx case. Though my psu will need some modifications to the case







.

I like traditional cases but I really like the "Horizon" style mb layout. I only have a few ssds so I don't need a rack of 3.5s







.

hmmmmmmm.....I can build my own external rad box with some acrylic sheet


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would actually go external rads with the HAF XB. But the small footprint and its LAN-able makes it very tempting. Biggest plus: it can fit a full atx case. Though my psu will need some modifications to the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I like traditional cases but I really like the "Horizon" style mb layout. I only have a few ssds so I don't need a rack of 3.5s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> hmmmmmmm.....I can build my own external rad box with some acrylic sheet


Easier to use wood. And if you spend a couple buck you can get a metal bender thingy to use alu or thin steel.

Hrmmm... I'll be back, I need to use google sketchup for a couple mins...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Easier to use wood. And if you spend a couple buck you can get a metal bender thingy to use alu or thin steel.
> Hrmmm... I'll be back, I need to use google sketchup for a couple mins...


Acrylic is already finished. just cut and put together. peel away the protective film and done! No painting, no sanding and priming, etc.


----------



## kyismaster

On a some what bright note, and hopefully Bneg will allow this,

But I got a sponsorship from Monsoon, and possibly Fractal Design today.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone planning to water cool one of these suckers???


For rads would you be looking at

1x 240mm (120 x 2) front
1x 120mm back
1x 160mm (80 x 2) back and bottom

Or do you think you could also fit 240mm on the sides?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> These are all I have access to right now. I'll get some from difference angles so you can see everything when I get home from work


Thanks! Great lookin GT's there.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> For rads would you be looking at
> 1x 240mm (120 x 2) front
> 1x 120mm back
> 1x 160mm (80 x 2) back and bottom
> Or do you think you could also fit 240mm on the sides?


I would go external. Build a rad box for my two Monsta 360s and a single Monsta 240. Use a couple of qdc(s) to easily disco the rad box.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> On a some what bright note, and hopefully Bneg will allow this,
> But I got a sponsorship from Monsoon, and possibly Fractal Design today.


Awesome, congratz!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> On a some what bright note, and hopefully Bneg will allow this,
> But I got a sponsorship from Monsoon, and possibly Fractal Design today.


Why wouldnt i allow this?

Congrats on your deal,did you do well?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Awesome, congratz!!!


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why wouldnt i allow this?
> Congrats on your deal,did you do well?


I did









I got a few of the monsoon's "show pieces"

took quite a bit.

I'll see If I get any word from silverstone , xspc, aquatuning, and sidewinder. I hope I do.

I would try for PPC's But I think I have bad footing, and would have to buy a ton of stuff to make up for it lol, which is out of budget.

edit: If I get anyword from silverstone, I think you'll see a second build coming


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> On a some what bright note, and hopefully Bneg will allow this,
> But I got a sponsorship from Monsoon, and possibly Fractal Design today.


This is an *OCN* thread, so anyone's preference/opinions doesn't dictate this thread's overall theme. Just saying, you shouldn't be concerned if some one does or doesn't like something. Heck, I still see TT water cooling junk and its still being used and posted here. My not liking it won't deter ppl from posting









Congrats on the sponsorship!!!!

Hmmmm







, CM should sponsor me with a HAF XB







edit: <- wishful thinking, ?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is an *OCN* thread, so anyone's preference/opinions doesn't dictate this thread's overall theme. Just saying, you shouldn't be concerned if some one does or doesn't like something. Heck, I still see TT water cooling junk and its still being used and posted here. My not liking it won't deter ppl from posting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the sponsorship!!!!
> Hmmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , CM should sponsor me with a HAF XB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: <- wishful thinking, ?










Never know if you don't try, I emailed corsair but no reply.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is an *OCN* thread, so anyone's preference/opinions doesn't dictate this thread's overall theme. Just saying, you shouldn't be concerned if some one does or doesn't like something. Heck, I still see TT water cooling junk and its still being used and posted here. My not liking it won't deter ppl from posting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the sponsorship!!!!
> Hmmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , CM should sponsor me with a HAF XB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: <- wishful thinking, ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never know if you don't try, I emailed corsair but no reply.
Click to expand...

I've got a contact if you need it, but he's very busy. took him over a month to get back to me the first time.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never know if you don't try, I emailed corsair but no reply.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I've got a contact if you need it, but he's very busy. took him over a month to get back to me the first time.


I need to formulate some sort of plan to make it viable for them to even consider me. I am using their top of the line psu so that might help.

Anyways, while rolling over the idea of making an external radbox, I found these templates if anyone is needs them:

http://www.mnpctech.com/Radiator_Grill_Templates.html

Btw, not my fault if this temps some of you to start more modding


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Thanks! Great lookin GT's there.


TY, painted them myself over the course of two days. Here is another one from a different angle so you can see them in action. The flash kind of distorted the GPU cables' color. It's the same as the orange on the 24-pin and 8-pin power cables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyways, will rolling over the idea of making an external radbox, I found these templates if anyone is needs them:
> http://www.mnpctech.com/Radiator_Grill_Templates.html
> :


I used those when I made my radiator shroud out of some scrap gatorboard at work. They were very useful. Took about an hour to make and it fit perfectly on the first try


----------



## Yukss

edit...


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone planning to water cool one of these suckers???


i would get two of these and gut one for the W/C equipment w/ qdc's. it would take alot of modding, but they would look like twins and it would keep the W/C stuff out of the case w/ the components in case of a no-no. I am going to look forward to you external plexi box. i have had no luck playing with acyrilc because i have no patience for things when the crack on me if i breath wrong on it(or my jigsaw battery runs low and it cracks it).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is an *OCN* thread, *so anyone's preference/opinions doesn't dictate this thread's overall theme.* Just saying, you shouldn't be concerned if some one does or doesn't like something. Heck, I still see TT water cooling junk and its still being used and posted here. My not liking it won't deter ppl from posting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the sponsorship!!!!
> Hmmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , CM should sponsor me with a HAF XB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: <- wishful thinking, ?


Exactly this.
I speak my mind about products and what not,you should too.


----------



## wermad

4th DD gpu block came in. These suckers are heavy







.








waiting on cpu block to arrive from the North
















I broke my hyper101 so I have nothing to cool my cpu atm. Might go to Frys and buy a Hyper 212


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 4th DD gpu block came in. These suckers are heavy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waiting on cpu block to arrive from the North
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I broke my hyper101 so I have nothing to cool my cpu atm. *Might go to Frys and buy a Hyper 212*


....wut?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I broke my hyper101 so I have nothing to cool my cpu atm. Might go to Frys and buy a Hyper 212


I keep an old Thermaltake Frio I won at PDXLAN on hand for this very reason.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I keep an old Thermaltake Frio I won at PDXLAN on hand for this very reason.


Thermaltake Frio was the bomb!

I painted mines black, it was awesome. temps were at 4.9ghz 66c on load


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I keep an old Thermaltake Frio I won at PDXLAN on hand for this very reason.


I should have kept my Antec kuhler but I got a sweet offer from a friend to buy it. I'm just gonna wait since it could arrive tomorrow or Saturday.

Some DD goodness


----------



## derickwm

I've been an eyeing an R3E BE to replace my broken SR-2s... Man it'd be sexy with my MIPS blocks









Reminds self that I'm moving across the world and shouldn't be buying more hardware


----------



## Hanoverfist

ORANGE


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would actually go external rads with the HAF XB. But the small footprint and its LAN-able makes it very tempting. Biggest plus: it can fit a full atx case. Though my psu will need some modifications to the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I like traditional cases but I really like the "Horizon" style mb layout. I only have a few ssds so I don't need a rack of 3.5s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> hmmmmmmm.....I can build my own external rad box with some acrylic sheet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would actually go external rads with the HAF XB. But the small footprint and its LAN-able makes it very tempting. Biggest plus: it can fit a full atx case. Though my psu will need some modifications to the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I like traditional cases but I really like the "Horizon" style mb layout. I only have a few ssds so I don't need a rack of 3.5s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> hmmmmmmm.....I can build my own external rad box with some acrylic sheet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easier to use wood. And if you spend a couple buck you can get a metal bender thingy to use alu or thin steel.
> 
> Hrmmm... I'll be back, I need to use google sketchup for a couple mins...
Click to expand...

You mean like this?










Buildlog in my sig.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I should have kept my Antec kuhler but I got a sweet offer from a friend to buy it. I'm just gonna wait since it could arrive tomorrow or Saturday.
> Some DD goodness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Delicious. I nabbed one of their Crystal Bay Reservoirs during the sale. Let me know if you want it for the build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You mean like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buildlog in my sig.


Yes, an external rad box like that. Did you make that? Looks awesome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Delicious. I nabbed one of their Crystal Bay Reservoirs during the sale. Let me know if you want it for the build.


I got three of their 580 blocks and I got another from a member who managed to get one too.

They're heavy as hell and so I"m in super need of a the back plates. My diy ones will do for now until I have enough money to buy some EK ones. I spent my last cash one some mods I'll be doing ot the psu's harness cables.


----------



## Michalius

I'd send it to ya for free. Pretty cool little res.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I'd send it to ya for free. Pretty cool little res.


I don't have room in my Elysium







but I'll be glad to take one off your hands


----------



## driftingforlife

I never got a reply from corsair. B neg, what's EK like for emailing about sponsorship? I just sent them an email.


----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've read in here that they only sponsor well known modders and builders for the most part...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, I need to get you to do that to my mobo tray!!! Looks amazing!


----------



## driftingforlife

This isn't for a build. Its more of a review.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Wow, I need to get you to do that to my mobo tray!!! Looks amazing!


No problem.
You can look at my worklog, on the first page are all updated. That itself is a Spanish forum.


----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've read in here that they only sponsor well known modders and builders for the most part...


I've heard this and it would make sense tbh. Looks like you need some reputation and some proof (in the manner of some unique build/mod).

Lol, I know i have little to no chance but hey, I've seen some sponsorships go to ppl w/ little modding skills but have great communication skills.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I never got a reply from corsair. B neg, what's EK like for emailing about sponsorship? I just sent them an email.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've read in here that they only sponsor well known modders and builders for the most part...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> This isn't for a build. Its more of a review.


pmed both of you.


----------



## kyismaster

in short, EK's sponsorship money is all going to this event right now: http://www.cooledpc.com/

so don't hope on getting EK sponsorship this month, i tried lol.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Finally Replaced my cracked rez, here are some crappy pics of it.


----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i tried lol.


Can't blame you for not trying


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Can't blame you for not trying


well, that meaning, I could have gotten a sponsorship, but they said because of the huge give away/contest that they cant







, so maybe i'll try again in January.

but thanks!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks fantastic.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Just an update to my loop. Added the Hydro Copper and white tubing. If I buy another EVGA card, I'm buying the model already fitted with the block. That thing was a nightmare. I have to say; 100% load temps went from 76-79 degrees to 32


----------



## jackofhearts495

Keep it coming, MrYakuZa... I'll never get tired of pics like those.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I'd send it to ya for free. Pretty cool little res.


That thing looks SICK! Even better than my Swiftech Maelstrom.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Finished for now, more pics in log.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















Can't say anything....I'm numb......just this.......


----------



## dmckoy

first loop , stage 1 more stuff will come soon...


----------



## eskamobob1

@yakuza

nice picks... so wish i could read your log... being illiterate in 2 or the 4 languages you speak sucks









@dmocky

looking good


----------



## kyismaster

Is it just me, or does Petra's PC's ship really slow, I ordered my duralene tubing like last friday, and it just shipped today.


----------



## jdangond

Update with modded side panel, can finally see all the hardware.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You mean like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buildlog in my sig.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, an external rad box like that. Did you make that? Looks awesome
Click to expand...

Thanks! and yup, I made it. I had the big pieces cut to size but I cut the holes for the rads myself and obv had the grills made. Was a fun little project.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> Just an update to my loop. Added the Hydro Copper and white tubing. If I buy another EVGA card, I'm buying the model already fitted with the block. That thing was a nightmare. I have to say; 100% load temps went from 76-79 degrees to 32


Very nice sir and its amazing what water does for GPU load temps.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Either the Swiftech pwm version or the Aquacomputer USB version I'd you can afford to spend the extra money.


I'm not sure there is a way to tell whether or not that the PWM D5 version (setting #5) is that of the Vario or the D5 with only speed setting #4.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I never got a reply from corsair. B neg, what's EK like for emailing about sponsorship? I just sent them an email.


Forget it while that cooledpc comp is on,they are not doing anything till after that as far as I know...


----------



## Fuganater

Corsair never replies unless you're a big modder.


----------



## driftingforlife

EK said no atm. There replied fast though







Will try Aqua computer


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have to say the companies approached me to sponsor rather than me approach them,EK and Lamptron being the exception...

Are you sending them new build plans with your request? Or current builds?
You need to have some solid builds behind you first with a clear idea of how it will benefit them.


----------



## driftingforlife

Its not for a build. I need a 680 lighting block to use in a 7970 L vs 680 L review for the Team GB website.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> For all you folks in the US. I'm working with a plexi company to start stocking 10 mm and 12 mm OD acrylic tubing. I'll let you know more when I can.


So the company that provides them their tubing is in Canada and does not stock metric tubing...

Epic Fail...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> ORANGE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You mean like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buildlog in my sig.


I know that thing has been finished for some time now, but I still like seeing it, great work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You've got some skills with the Di-Noc....it's awesome









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Doing some major photo bombing past few pages eh?







Not really complaining...this is a gallery after all. How do those Bitspower blocks stack up again some of the more well known GPU blocks? Like EK or XSPC?

*EDIT: Got my waterblock installed







Now if my fittings ever arrive I can finish my loop!*


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *I have to say the companies approached me to sponsor rather than me approach them,*EK and Lamptron being the exception...
> 
> Are you sending them new build plans with your request? Or current builds?
> You need to have some solid builds behind you first with a clear idea of how it will benefit them.


Even if it's true, that is a very pretentious comment


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> ORANGE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WOW these are sexy radiators Hanoverfist! HOW has nobody commented on these? It is the water cooling thread after all? Oh that's right they are too busy arguing about d5's and chav's and all that stuff.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> WOW these are sexy radiators Hanoverfist! HOW has nobody commented on these? It is the water cooling thread after all? Oh that's right they are too busy arguing about d5's and chav's and all that stuff.


LOL I commented on them, they are indeed sexy. I just spoiler tagged all of the photos when I quoted it.....as should you


----------



## NewHighScore

Oops fixed. Ok PCMM was the only one who was not sleepin over there!

P.S. Do all lightning cards come with that thing on the back? I love your lightning card but I can't say I'm a fan of those reactor cores or whatever they are calling it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Oops fixed. Ok PCMM was the only one who was not sleepin over there!
> P.S. Do all lightning cards come with that thing on the back? I love your lightning card but I can't say I'm a fan of those reactor cores or whatever they are calling it.










Nope wide awake
Yea all of the Lightning cards do come with that reactor core, well at least for the 680's. I do think it's a bit over the top, wish it wasn't so large. But when the card is actually in the case, and it's lite up, I'm digging it.


----------



## driftingforlife

You can take the reactor off.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> You can take the reactor off.


Yea I've seen another guy running his two Lightnings like that, with just the little PCB on the backside showing...might try it.


----------



## driftingforlife

It makes no difference. Its only there for when under LN2 above 1600mhz-1700mhz


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Even if it's true, that is a very pretentious comment


Whats pretentious about that? I stating fact,Im pretty certain that most modders are approached rather than doing the approaching themselves.
I have not got far thru sending mail to manu's at all,I had success thru work quality and getting coverage.
Do you know how many forums my logs are on? How much work goes into getting good coverage?
Posting a log on 1 forum wont get you anywhere....

Now,im sorry if the way i got help offends you,but thats the way it is.
Putting inflection on a written sentence is fail tbh.

This man speaks the truth...

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showpost.php?p=1883650&postcount=15

I suppose he is pretentious too.......


----------



## MrYakuZa

THANKS!








*This stuff is for my TJ11 Mod 2.0!*

































































Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












































Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







































































Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
















































































Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: That Block! Looks good mang! Ill have my 680 blocked as soon as I get that Single Brige CSQ. I cant believe I have to pay an extra 10.00 for that piece, plus shipping! It should have came with the block!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that thing has been finished for some time now, but I still like seeing it, great work.
> You've got some skills with the Di-Noc....it's awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing some major photo bombing past few pages eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really complaining...this is a gallery after all. How do those Bitspower blocks stack up again some of the more well known GPU blocks? Like EK or XSPC?
> *EDIT: Got my waterblock installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if my fittings ever arrive I can finish my loop!*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Coldzero Backplate?.....very nice.

Did they do the top covers too?
Ricardo is a bit of a legend with the Acrylic.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Coldzero Backplate?.....very nice.
> Did they do the top covers too?
> Ricard is a bit of a legend with the Acrylic.


Yes! Ricardo is the best with the Acrylic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> Yes! Ricardo is the best with the Acrylic


He did the cover for my sli bridge,definitely will be using him again for the XSPC case im doing next year.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Whats pretentious about that? I stating fact,Im pretty certain that most modders are approached rather than doing the approaching themselves.
> I have not got far thru sending mail to manu's at all,I had success thru work quality and getting coverage.
> Do you know how many forums my logs are on? How much work goes into getting good coverage?


I was just saying that your post was Very pretentious with a smiley face. Don't take it to personnal B-Neg
Quote:


> Now,im sorry if the way i got help *offends* you,but thats the way it is.
> *Putting inflection on a written sentence is fail tbh*.


I am not offened at all, I'll say the same to you: Putting inflection on a written sentence is fail tbh

Quote:


> *Posting a log on 1 forum wont get you anywhere....*


I don't know what you are insinuating, but I am not trying to get sponsored







And never tried. I never make buildlogs of my builds (usually)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I was just saying that your post was Very pretentious with a smiley face. Don't take it to personnal B-Neg
> I am not offened at all, I'll say the same to you: Putting inflection on a written sentence is fail tbh
> I don't know what you are insinuating, but I am not trying to get sponsored
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And never tried. I never make buildlogs of my build.


I think being called pretentious is quite insulting,if offense was not your aim then happy days all round.
The buildlog thing was not aimed at anyone,its just a pointer for those that post on a couple of forums that are looking for help,they need to get coverage. Thats what they want to see,their product...EVERYWHERE.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think being called pretentious is quite insulting,if offense was not your aim then happy days all round.
> The buildlog thing was not aimed at anyone,its just a pointer for those that post on a couple of forums that are looking for help,they need to get coverage. Thats what they want to see,their product...EVERYWHERE.


That's strange. In Hitchhiker's guide to Mod Sponsorship he states that you should only have a log on one or two forums. I wonder why that is. It has never made sense to me.

_"The first time you start looking for sponsorship should really not be the first time that you've done a mod. Usually, about the third time is a charm for getting the ball rolling on sponsorship - then there are two completed projects before this one, which should be published on a single (two at the max) modding forum that gets traffic from the right kinds of people. This way, you can illustrate that your name is a recognised one, that you follow things through, and that there's commercial "presence" to your mod."_


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Thanks bro! Your spot on....really shouldn't have to pay an extra 10 bucks for that piece, should just be included with the block to make your connections...


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He did the cover for my sli bridge,definitely will be using him again for the XSPC case im doing next year.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My first cover sli










And the second one.










Ricardo ROCKS!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> That's strange. In Hitchhiker's guide to Mod Sponsorship he states that you should only have a log on one or two forums. I wonder why that is. It has never made sense to me.
> _"The first time you start looking for sponsorship should really not be the first time that you've done a mod. Usually, about the third time is a charm for getting the ball rolling on sponsorship - then there are two completed projects before this one, which should be published on a single (two at the max) modding forum that gets traffic from the right kinds of people. This way, you can illustrate that your name is a recognised one, that you follow things through, and that there's commercial "presence" to your mod."_


I am only stating what worked for me.

I post on 12 forums,manus and modder sites.

If you want to get in with a certain manu then fork out for their kit in previous builds and post on their forum,it makes sense to me to do that.

Bittech is trying to keep good builds on their site as it generates traffic,i think there is a bit of self interest there when they say one or two forums max.

Seeing as everything im saying is being dissected,im not talking anymore about it,good luck with your efforts to all those looking for help.


----------



## hammerforged

Yeah ColdZero does an awesome job.

I love my TJ07 midplate and the custom motherboard tray.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Dang btw they have 25% off their watercooling stock. Not a whole lot left but check it out:

http://www.coldzero.eu/category.php?id_category=7


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am only stating what worked for me.
> I post on 12 forums,manus and modder sites.
> If you want to get in with a certain manu then fork out for their kit in previous builds and post on their forum,it makes sense to me to do that.
> Bittech is trying to keep good builds on their site as it generates traffic,i think there is a bit of self interest there when they say one or two forums max.
> Seeing as everything im saying is being dissected,im not talking anymore about it,good luck with your efforts to all those looking for help.


Hey I'm not dissecting. I am simply wondering out of curiosity as I would be interested in being sponsored in the future so my wife doesn't take my members. I will mod and build regardless but it would be nice to have sponsorship to reduce the costs because I love to share with the community and document my build and experiences. I even stated that what he says in that guide doesn't make sense to me. What you do makes more sense but I just figured since bittech has a great modding community that guy has to be onto something. Thanks for the input though.







Manu forums makes most sense to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Hey I'm not dissecting. I am simply wondering out of curiosity as I would be interested in being sponsored in the future so my wife doesn't take my members. I will mod and build regardless but it would be nice to have sponsorship to reduce the costs because I love to share with the community and document my build and experiences. I even stated that what he says in that guide doesn't make sense to me. What you do makes more sense but I just figured since bittech has a great modding community that guy has to be onto something. Thanks for the input though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Manu forums makes most sense to me.












Good work always gets noticed,get out there and show them what you got.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> *EDIT: Got my waterblock installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if my fittings ever arrive I can finish my loop!*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Pic there.. I like the Counter Top Too..







~~







I see i'm not the only one having a little fun with Reflection










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good work always gets noticed,get out there and show them what you got.


Will do. LOL that article has kept me from posting on more then 2 sites and 1 of them is a low traffic Canadian site. The next one I will take an approach more similar to yours.


----------



## phillyd

How do i get a gold of Ricardo?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Nice Pic there.. I like the Counter Top Too..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see i'm not the only one having a little fun with Reflection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks! Bathroom pics FTW right LOL







Yea I was having fun with that reflection....yours look real cool too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> How do i get a gold of Ricardo?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

It only makes sense to post your work in as many places as possible. The better known you become in the industry the higher the likelihood of getting sponsors...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He did the cover for my sli bridge,definitely will be using him again for the XSPC case im doing next year.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first cover sli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And the second one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ricardo ROCKS!!
Click to expand...

Wish AMD would get off their butts an get us solid Crossfire bridges.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Just put in the 7970 I traded some stuff for... 29 degrees full load. I like radiators









Now to start the OC'ing.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> How do i get a gold of Ricardo?


Treasure hunt?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wish AMD would get off their butts an get us solid Crossfire bridges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


On the MilSpec build,I fitted the ribbon then sized up the acrylic accordingly,fixed it each end with non conductive thermal tape. Solid bridge FTW.

Crossfire bridges are even easier,they have tabs to glue to.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just put in the 7970 I traded some stuff for... 29 degrees full load. I like radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to start the OC'ing.


Whaaaat? I missed that totally, when did you get a 7970? Pics?


----------



## derickwm

Rig is...almost embarrassing right now. Cable management is even worse than usual









It's just in for testing really, probably won't be keeping it.


----------



## Gingertechy

So I have spent the last month reading this thread. I will be building a water cooling rig by Christmas and joining you all! Will distilled water in a gallon off the shelf work as well as say making my own distilled?


----------



## derickwm

Ok, because I'm bored


















Edit...wow that looks nothing like it did in CS6 before saving


----------



## zubzero689

i bought a waterblock for my xfx cdfc 7870 it should of been ref pcb but it wasnt so i modified the block so much i had to use jb-weld to fix it and i am running leak test. how much psi does the normal pump put out?


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gingertechy*
> 
> So I have spent the last month reading this thread. I will be building a water cooling rig by Christmas and joining you all! Will distilled water in a gallon off the shelf work as well as say making my own distilled?


not sure where you from but the $.90 a gallon off the shelf can't be beat.


----------



## Gingertechy

Sweet thanks lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*










Backplate is so *OM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM!!!*









Would love to have something like that for the 6870s'.









you have PM btw.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alfaa

Took some new pictures using that guide (which was very, very helpful). How do you like?














Here is the full Imgur gallery, for those interested.

Thanks for looking


----------



## hammerforged

Get rid of that spoiler and show off those pics Alfaa! Looks good!

This is a picture gallery after all


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just put in the 7970 I traded some stuff for... 29 degrees full load. I like radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to start the OC'ing.


Without looking through all of these posts, what are you cooling and with how many rads? I miss temps like that!


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Get rid of that spoiler and show off those pics Alfaa! Looks good!
> This is a picture gallery after all


Thanks









I know some people's jimmies get rustled if you put multiple pictures without a spoiler, so that's why I did that.


----------



## 218689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Took some new pictures using that guide (which was very, very helpful). How do you like?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the full Imgur gallery, for those interested.
> Thanks for looking


is that dust i see in that radiator or is it just the camera playing tricks?


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoid.srg*
> 
> is that dust i see in that radiator or is it just the camera playing tricks?


Nope, that's dust. I didn't have any sort of dust removal tool when I took these pictures, so..... yea..


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just put in the 7970 I traded some stuff for... 29 degrees full load. I like radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to start the OC'ing.
> 
> 
> 
> Without looking through all of these posts, what are you cooling and with how many rads? I miss temps like that!
Click to expand...

I currently have 3 480s and a 360 in my STH10. Cooling two Xeon E5-2687Ws and the 7970.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know some people's jimmies get rustled if you put multiple pictures without a spoiler, so that's why I did that.


No mate,only if you are quoting pics do you use a spoiler.
If they are your pride and joy then we wants lots of them!


----------



## derickwm

Just bought a new motherboard...maybe I won't be retiring when I go to Prague









At least I can get 10mm hard piping easier


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No mate,only if you are quoting pics do you use a spoiler.
> If they are your pride and joy then we wants lots of them!


Ah, that's what the rule is. They have been unspoiled, thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just bought a new motherboard...maybe I won't be retiring when I go to Prague
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *At least I can get 10mm hard piping easier*


one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us...........


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backplate is so *OM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to have something like that for the 6870s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you have PM btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


As far as I can tell those Coldzero backplates are available for Radeon 6970 and 6950 but not for 6870.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just bought a new motherboard...maybe I won't be retiring when I go to Prague
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *At least I can get 10mm hard piping easier*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us...........
Click to expand...

I still think angled fittings and high pressure jetstreams between them with no tubing is the future...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I still think angled fittings and high pressure jetstreams between them with no tubing is the future...


I was thinking of magnetic barrier tubing with a flux capacitor as the pump.

Time to hire the Apple patent lawyer i think....


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just bought a new motherboard...maybe I won't be retiring when I go to Prague
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *At least I can get 10mm hard piping easier*
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us-one of us...........
Click to expand...











Chrome plated tubing mixed with an R3E BE? Yes.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was thinking of magnetic barrier tubing with a flux capacitor as the pump.
> Time to hire the Apple patent lawyer i think....


But what about lasers? We need lasers...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> But what about lasers? We need lasers...


You're hired.

Get to work!


----------



## wermad

Hyper 101 working surprisingly well with my cpu. Could be the ultra superior Sniper3 Z77 (vs the problematic Z77 FTW).

Crossing fingers cpu block arrives today


----------



## derickwm

Hubba hubba


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> Just an update to my loop. Added the Hydro Copper and white tubing. If I buy another EVGA card, I'm buying the model already fitted with the block. That thing was a nightmare. I have to say; 100% load temps went from 76-79 degrees to 32
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oo really ? Your temps dropped from 76-79° under full load to THIRTY TWO (32°) ! ?
Man, you're killing me. I'd stopped with beign desperate to get rid of my GPU and get a WC'ed one or just pop a uni block on my current one but I realized the other day that my PC wasn't as silent as I used to believe it was so I tested only booting certain stuff to figure out what was making the terrible high pitched noise. Turns out it was and still is my crappy GPU (77° max in BF3 btw). I can even ear it on idle. It's terrible.

Could anybody confirm those incredible temp drops ? I was thinking it would drop closer to the fifties (50) full load and about 30° on idle (as air cooled).

Oh and I'm sorry about the other day when I answered to one of you and said that NO, this thread wasn't moving to fast and even that it was rather slow lately. Well, I've been way busier (not working or anything, just going out instead of sitting around) and yeah, when I eventually get home and see that there's 90+ posts to go through I understand what you feel like.

Oh and QUIT IT WITH THE SENSELESS ARGUING, jumped a whole page and might have missed some interesting posts because of that.


----------



## BiaBia

My GTX 670 never goes over 35c while folding







So yes I can confirm crazy low GPU temps

Oh and just somemore info, I have 2 GB GTX670 OCs one on air the other on water (don't ask lol) and my idle temps on the air are the same as the load temps on the WCed one lol


----------



## wermad

Newest gen is surprisingly cooler. I'm idling ~33c on each core on my 580s (running one 360 for all atm). I'm estimating at load (stock clocks) I'm looking under 50c









I skipped this gen since Nvidia and all its b.s. and Amd was just a tad bit out of my budget. Next year, quad 7970s fo-shure


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hyper 101 working surprisingly well with my cpu. Could be the ultra superior Sniper3 Z77 (vs the problematic Z77 FTW).
> 
> Crossing fingers cpu block arrives today


That looks so out of place, lol


----------



## steelkevin

cheers guys but if I'm not mistaken you're all running Nvidia cards. Are the AMD 7000s as cool as the Nvidia GTX 600s ?

(I'm going out so I won't see your answers before say tomorrow evening. I wouldn't want to sound rude like I'd ask a question and ignore answers







).


----------



## derickwm

Not on stock coolers. The 7000 series will hit mid 70s when OC'd on ref cooler. On water though... My 7970 is sitting around 32-33 full load OC'd to 1190.


----------



## hammerforged

Wermad someone beat ya to it







You might wanna check out this build log for the Cooler Master HAF XB
Quote:


> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/118-project-green-machine/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Not on stock coolers. The 7000 series will hit mid 70s when OC'd on ref cooler. On water though... My 7970 is sitting around 32-33 full load OC'd to 1190.


Stock coolers will always be hot. Sli/Crossfire them and you have a molten hot sandwich (yum







).

With decent airflow, you can get air cooled cards going a bit better than what you would normally see. But, that same mulla to make a good air cooling system can go into a water block to get superior temps









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Wermad someone beat ya to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might wanna check out this build log for the Cooler Master HAF XB


Its cool, I'll check it out to see it goes. My mine motivator is the Horizon (horizontal) mb layout since the DD 580 blocks are heavy piggies. If I do take the plunge, I'll need to wait for my tax return first







.

Anyways, the Elysium is a great sport at stuffing it with radiators









edit: just did a quick glance over and though I approve of the window mod, I don't believe that 360 will be enough. Let alone he just hacked the case up to stuff the rad inside. Me, I plan to continue using my Monstas but they would go in an external rad box.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hyper 101 working surprisingly well with my cpu. Could be the ultra superior Sniper3 Z77 (vs the problematic Z77 FTW).


Please let me know how you like the motherboard. I'm pretty close to dumping the G1.Assassin 2 and 3820 so I can get with the PCI-E 3.0 times.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Please let me know how you like the motherboard. I'm pretty close to dumping the G1.Assassin 2 and 3820 so I can get with the PCI-E 3.0 times.


You would be better off getting a RIVE. X79 has PCI-E 3.0. Just use the Nvidia PCI-E software.

http://www.techpowerup.com/168027/NVIDIA-Releases-PCI-Express-Gen-3.0-Enabling-Patch-for-Sandy-Bridge-E-HEDT-Platform.html


----------



## tiran

Sweet rigs in here...


----------



## hammerforged

Edit: Driftingforlife beat me to it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

We are not at the full bandwidth of PCI-E 2 yet are we?

Thats a lot of money to spend on a barely used feature.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Please let me know how you like the motherboard. I'm pretty close to dumping the G1.Assassin 2 and 3820 so I can get with the PCI-E 3.0 times.


So far its been ultra smooth. Considering this is a refurbished unit, everything looked new and its working fine. Even though I've been using it for a day, I can tell you that the board does what its needs to do with no issues. I would recommend skip the EVGA (despite the uber low price) Z77 and consider any board: Sniper3 Z77, Extreme9 Z77, MVE Z77, UP7 Z77, etc. The sniper was next option up the pricing ladder (got it even cheaper as a refurb) and it got lots of praise from talking to owners.

I was more concerned w/ 4-way sli rather pcie 3.0 since no one is really saturating it to its full potential. I could have gone back to x79 but I don't like the oc'ing of the 3820 and I don't want to drop a lot of cash on a 3930k.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We are not at the full bandwidth of PCI-E 2 yet are we?
> Thats a lot of money to spend on a barely used feature.


This.

PCI Express 2.0 vs 3.0 GPU Gaming Performance Review

Plus X79 has more PCIE lanes so you can run at 8x or 16x which is much more important for multi gpu setups than pice 2.0 vs 3.0


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> THANKS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *This stuff is for my TJ11 Mod 2.0!*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
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What did you do for the black cover on the block? That looks awesome!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## bundymania

...got something from New York City in the mail today................................


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiran*
> 
> Sweet rigs in here...


Welcome to OCN. Careful, watercooling is easily addicting.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> ...got something from New York City in the mail today................................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lamptron makes fittings? Besides the gimmicky packaging, looks interesting.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> You would be better off getting a RIVE. X79 has PCI-E 3.0. Just use the Nvidia PCI-E software.
> http://www.techpowerup.com/168027/NVIDIA-Releases-PCI-Express-Gen-3.0-Enabling-Patch-for-Sandy-Bridge-E-HEDT-Platform.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Edit: Driftingforlife beat me to it.


But it doesn't match.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We are not at the full bandwidth of PCI-E 2 yet are we?
> Thats a lot of money to spend on a barely used feature.


Unfortunately, it would be a used feature on my board for one very important reason. 3 way SLI is supported on the G1.Assassin2, but at x16/x16/x8. So I'm getting bottlenecked pretty hard on one of my cards. I was hoping to break 20K on 3DMark11, but it's holding me back big time.

Once I add a second/third S23A750D, the higher res will also take a fairly large performance hit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> But it doesn't match.
> 
> Unfortunately, it would be a used feature on my board for one very important reason. 3 way SLI is supported on the G1.Assassin2, but at x16/x16/x8. So I'm getting bottlenecked pretty hard on one of my cards. I was hoping to break 20K on 3DMark11, but it's holding me back big time.
> Once I add a second/third S23A750D, the higher res will also take a fairly large performance hit.


Im pretty certain x16 x16 x8 is not hurting your score...Have you posted this in the GPU section?


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> ...got something from New York City in the mail today................................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those have to be the best looking clamps for a barb I have seen, whats the price of barb + clamp?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> But it doesn't match.
> 
> Unfortunately, it would be a used feature on my board for one very important reason. 3 way SLI is supported on the G1.Assassin2, but at x16/x16/x8. So I'm getting bottlenecked pretty hard on one of my cards. I was hoping to break 20K on 3DMark11, but it's holding me back big time.
> Once I add a second/third S23A750D, the higher res will also take a fairly large performance hit.










I think memory bus would be more of a factor than Pcie lanes with 3 monitors.


----------



## Michalius

Was confirmed by a friend who ran some tests for me on his RIVE. There's also Vega's post here that shows x8 PCI-E 2.0 is a fairly substantial bottleneck.

I'm not saying my x16 cards are, just my x8 one.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Backplate is so *OM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to have something like that for the 6870s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you have PM btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Have you considered an EK backplate?
www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038&products_id=29898
I bought one for my first 7950, and just ordered a second one for my second 7950.
ColdZero doesn't seem to have any listed for the 6870, but might be able to supply one for it?
www.coldzero.eu/category.php?id_category=5
Edit:
This is interesting
www.coldzero.eu/forum/showthread.php?3793-New-14-11-2011-VGA-Cards-Custom-made-Coldzero-Backplates&p=30805&viewfull=1#post30805


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Those have to be the best looking clamps for a barb I have seen, whats the price of barb + clamp?
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think memory bus would be more of a factor than Pcie lanes with 3 monitors.


This, for everyday usage, a single core gpu will see at most ~5% loss. Its really a factor when you're using dual gpu cards like the 690/590/6990/7970x2 etc..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Was confirmed by a friend who ran some tests for me on his RIVE. There's also Vega's post here that shows x8 PCI-E 2.0 is a fairly substantial bottleneck.
> I'm not saying my x16 cards are, just my x8 one.


For the hardcore benchers, go for the highend x79 with dual PEX (like the Exterme11). Honestly, you're just using a lot more money to gain a few more points which by next gen, someone will trump them. I like benching but I really don't see a lot of benefit other than personal satisfaction. If you're a professional and paid bencher, you shouldn't have troubles gettting the bst (through sponsorships).

Tbh, your gonna drop more money for little gain. 8x vs 16x pcie 2.0 is not that different on single core cards. And there's not much difference between 8x 3.0 vs 16x 2.0.

Also, doesn't Nvidia *not* officially support 3.0???

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> That looks so out of place, lol


Lol, i ghetto rigged my Hyper 101. Its doing ok. I just wanted to check gpu temps. Im gonna need to re-seat a couple of the gpus. No block today only the 90s I ordered.


----------



## sebar

Project Complete........for now:
Final pics of the Dragon Slayer mod.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Project Complete........for now:
> Final pics of the Dragon Slayer mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great Sebar! love the smaller builds.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Project Complete........for now:
> Final pics of the Dragon Slayer mod.


Oh my, that looks fantastic!

The silver fittings, fan sides, and front mesh go so well together. I love it!


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Project Complete........for now:
> Final pics of the Dragon Slayer mod.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build.... Stuffed like a Turkey!


----------



## Plutonium10

Noob question here. I just got some more Bitspower fittings including a 45 degree dual rotary and a ball valve. Both of these are very stiff. I can barely get enough grip to turn the 45 rotary, and I stopped trying to close the valve because I was afraid of breaking the plastic handle. Do they move better after having warm water passed through them?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Noob question here. I just got some more Bitspower fittings including a 45 degree dual rotary and a ball valve. Both of these are very stiff. I can barely get enough grip to turn the 45 rotary, and I stopped trying to close the valve because I was afraid of breaking the plastic handle. Do they move better after having warm water passed through them?


Some loosen up, some don't. I have Bitspower valves spread between builds and overall they are a little stiff.
On the plus side I've never had one leak.


----------



## eskamobob1

Awsome looking build


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Some loosen up, some don't. I have Bitspower valves spread between builds and overall they are a little stiff.
> On the plus side I've never had one leak.


Yeah, problem is it's so stiff it won't even close in the first place. I might drop them in warm water for 10 minutes and then try to loosen them up.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Some loosen up, some don't. I have Bitspower valves spread between builds and overall they are a little stiff.
> On the plus side I've never had one leak.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, problem is it's so stiff it won't even close in the first place. I might drop them in warm water for 10 minutes and then try to loosen them up.
Click to expand...

If you use a dab of water proof silicon grease to the ball valve in the shut off fitting it should allow for easier manipulation and keep the handle safe. Just add a dab an slowly work the handle until it frees it up. Should be okay to have it in the loop as well as it shouldn't break down and contaminate your coolant.









But don't get all buck wild with the stuff. A little bit goes a long way.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I can vouch for silicone grease. Its used for house plumbing and so it makes sense to use it without worry in wc'd systems. I use it on the D-plugs to avoid tearing he o-rings since I have to turn them to thread them to the blocks.


----------



## Plutonium10

Thanks guys, I'll try to find some silicone grease if warm water doesnt do the trick.







Pretty sure I have some that I use on my old Honda's squeaky clutch.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> What did you do for the black cover on the block? That looks awesome!
> Jeffinslaw


Acrylic covers black matt are custom made and CNC cut.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> Acrylic covers black matt are custom made and CNC cut.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How you liking the BP blocks? They look heavy (







) but appearance wise, they're super pleasing







.

Any plans going quad? 580s are inexpensive these days (hence why I picked up four) so its a good time to up the ante


----------



## kyismaster

it took... petra's 9 days... to ship out my order of tubing...

thats ordered last tuesday.... and shipped out yesterday. thursday 15th

i hope thats normal


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Project Complete........for now:
> Final pics of the Dragon Slayer mod.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking rig. Thinking of sticking an EX360 in a Source 220....hmmmm


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How you liking the BP blocks? They look heavy (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but appearance wise, they're super pleasing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Any plans going quad? 580s are inexpensive these days (hence why I picked up four) so its a good time to up the ante


As far as aesthetics are very nice, but not very good performance. They fit very well in my Mod 1.0, wanted an industrial look and robust at a time.























































As for Quad SLI, and not worth it, I'm content with TRI-SLI.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice looking rig. Thinking of sticking an EX360 in a Source 220....hmmmm


I thought about putting a 360 rad in the Dragon Slayer, I measured everything up and it will fit. I could get a ex240 in the roof and an ex360 in the front.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I thought about putting a 360 rad in the Dragon Slayer, I measured everything up and it will fit. I could get a ex240 in the roof and an ex360 in the front.


Nice! I was originally going to fit a 240 rad in the S220, but I recently got an EX360. It'll be a tight fit, but I measured the front and It should fit. I can't get any rads on the top of the Source, the rams in the way.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! I was originally going to fit a 240 rad in the S220, but I recently got an EX360. It'll be a tight fit, but I measured the front and It should fit. I can't get any rads on the top of the Source, the rams in the way.


Offset the rad to the side like I did.










The S220 is a wider case then the Dragon Slayer.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Offset the rad to the side like I did.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S220 is a wider case then the Dragon Slayer.


ahhhh, I've thought about it. But I wasn't on planning on chopping the top to fit a 240 rad. But I'll consider it. Where did you get the top panel? Cut it your self?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! I was originally going to fit a 240 rad in the S220, but I recently got an EX360. It'll be a tight fit, but I measured the front and It should fit. I can't get any rads on the top of the Source, the rams in the way.
> 
> 
> 
> Offset the rad to the side like I did.
> 
> 
> 
> The S220 is a wider case then the Dragon Slayer.
Click to expand...

Very cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ahhhh, I've thought about it. But I wasn't on planning on chopping the top to fit a 240 rad. But I'll consider it. Where did you get the top panel? Cut it your self?


I cutaway about 3/4 of the roof.









I had it custome made by Kirk Carpenter at Lazerwerx.com
He did an amazing job.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> As far as aesthetics are very nice, but not very good performance. They fit very well in my Mod 1.0, wanted an industrial look and robust at a time.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: *snip*


I love those backplates! Do you know if BP sells them separately?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> As for Quad SLI, and not worth it, I'm content with TRI-SLI.


Run Surround and four comes in handy







For a single screen, three is the sweet spot









edit:

some Enzotech little guys about to join the loop







. No cpu block today, praying for tomorrow. Hyper 101 ghetto mounted still in use


----------



## Attacktrak

This one Remember me this other, from my personal job. hope you like it...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> THANKS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *This stuff is for my TJ11 Mod 2.0!*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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WOW! My favorite color - "shiny"!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love those backplates! Do you know if BP sells them separately?
> Run Surround and four comes in handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For a single screen, three is the sweet spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> some Enzotech little guys about to join the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . No cpu block today, praying for tomorrow. Hyper 101 ghetto mounted still in use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I like those Enzotech fittings, they look very well made and robust-which exact model fitting are they please? I have looked online but cannot seem to find that exact model.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hubba hubba


32 Skidoo (older forum members will get it







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> ...got something from New York City in the mail today................................


These clamps are gorgeous, but not based on new design-one of my other hobbies is racing mountain bikes, i have a titanium bike and a carbon framed model-such clamps(usually made of titanium) have been used for years to secure the seat tube of high end bikes.
Still look good though-great photography as always Bund









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Project Complete........for now:
> Final pics of the Dragon Slayer mod.


Which model Enermax fans are those please-i cant tell because they are partially hidden in your rig(nice rig BTW)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Yeah, problem is it's so stiff it won't even close in the first place. I might drop them in warm water for 10 minutes and then try to loosen them up.


I used to use EK fittings before i switched over to BP fittings, i too initially thought that their stifness was strange-but i learned to live with it-a small price to pay for Quality








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can vouch for silicone grease. Its used for house plumbing and so it makes sense to use it without worry in wc'd systems. I use it on the D-plugs to avoid tearing he o-rings since I have to turn them to thread them to the blocks.


*THIS ^^*, its also used for waterproofing seals on divers watches, underwater camera housing seals etc, so a little water cooling fitting will surely benefit from it's use-just listen to what others have said before me: *USE VERY SPARINGLY*


----------



## Ceadderman

Lookie what just got here today. Order placed on Tuesday.



Most of the fittings will have to wait though. Just replacing the two that I have to replace at the moment. I hope to be able to install The Fillport Res very soon. It's being shipped out on Monday.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> I like those Enzotech fittings, they look very well made and robust-which exact model fitting are they please? I have looked online but cannot seem to find that exact model.
> [/B]


3/8x5/8, got them at koolertek.com. Ppcs.com also has them








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lookie what just got here today. Order placed on Tuesday.
> 
> Most of the fittings will have to wait though. Just replacing the two that I have to replace at the moment. I hope to be able to install The Fillport Res very soon. It's being shipped out on Monday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Noyce


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Right,im really am quite angry,i got a SECOND fc6 to replace this one that failed,this one decides to catch FIRE instead!! Now this unacceptable! I cant RMA due to the faceplate but this is my SECOND controller,im getting this independently verified as to whether this is capable of handling 20w,if not then they can expect a letter from my legal rep soon.

Terrible products....


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Right,im really am quite angry,i got a SECOND fc6 to replace this one that failed,this one decides to catch FIRE instead!! Now this unacceptable! I cant RMA due to the faceplate but this is my SECOND controller,im getting this independently verified as to whether this is capable of handling 20w,if not then they can expect a letter from my legal rep soon.
> Terrible products....


Are you sponsored by them mate? Either way, that sucks!

Out of curiosity, why did you not go for the FC5V2?
Ive been running one for over a year to control my fans (8 GT 1850s) and my Phobya led strip with no probs whatsoever.

Hence me coming full circle to sponsorship-if you are sponsored by them, have them send you the other model mate-30w per ch, and they look basically the same








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They wouldnt sponsor this build or replace this controller but they want to get involved with any new builds that i do....
> NO CHANCE!
> I will not use a Lamptron product again unless this problem is sorted first.
> Im not throwing away yet more money on rubbish controllers.


Perfectly understandable.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Are you sponsored by them mate? Either way, that sucks!
> Out of curiosity, why did you not go for the FC5V2?
> Ive been running one for over a year to control my fans (8 GT 1850s) and my Phobya led strip with no probs whatsoever.
> Hence me coming full circle to sponsorship-if you are sponsored by them, have them send you the other model mate-30w per ch, and they look basically the same


They wouldnt sponsor this build or replace this controller but they want to get involved with any new builds that i do....

NO CHANCE!

I will not use a Lamptron product again unless this problem is sorted first.
Im not throwing away yet more money on rubbish controllers.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Right,im really am quite angry,i got a SECOND fc6 to replace this one that failed,this one decides to catch FIRE instead!! Now this unacceptable! I cant RMA due to the faceplate but this is my SECOND controller,im getting this independently verified as to whether this is capable of handling 20w,if not then they can expect a letter from my legal rep soon.
> Terrible products....


What load did you put on the controller?

I'm currently using the same controller to control my DDC-1T, hopefully it will last long...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Are you sponsored by them mate? Either way, that sucks!
> Out of curiosity, why did you not go for the FC5V2?
> Ive been running one for over a year to control my fans (8 GT 1850s) and my Phobya led strip with no probs whatsoever.
> Hence me coming full circle to sponsorship-if you are sponsored by them, have them send you the other model mate-30w per ch, and they look basically the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They wouldnt sponsor this build or replace this controller but they want to get involved with any new builds that i do....
> 
> NO CHANCE!
> 
> I will not use a Lamptron product again unless this problem is sorted first.
> Im not throwing away yet more money on rubbish controllers.
Click to expand...

Yeah not to open up that whole can of worms again but seems like the upstart company(who shall remain nameless) is actually doing pretty well for themselves so far removed from the flame fest that was had so many people bad mouthing both companies.

Should just get a RheoSmart controller if you want something simple and is a proven performer B. My 3 channel Contoller is very capable. So if you're not worried about the bells and whistles of a graphic touch display, it's what I always recommend. Not a big fan of Sunbeam CCLs' but their controllers are top shelf.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> What load did you put on the controller?
> I'm currently using the same controller to control my DDC-1T, hopefully it will last long...


4 SP120s per channel,about 12 w start up current...just over half what this controller is rated for per channel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah not to open up that whole can of worms again but seems like the upstart company(who shall remain nameless) is actually doing pretty well for themselves so far removed from the flame fest that was had so many people bad mouthing both companies.
> Should just get a RheoSmart controller if you want something simple and is a proven performer B. My 3 channel Contoller is very capable. So if you're not worried about the bells and whistles of a graphic touch display, it's what I always recommend. Not a big fan of Sunbeam CCLs' but their controllers are top shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thing is Ceadder,this rig is being displayed by XSPC in 2 weeks time,I really dont want to be making a whole new face plate for a new controller,this is why i threw good money after bad to ensure i didnt have to.



Now im £60 out of pocket and STILL have to make a new plate.










GVANS FTW!


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 4 SP120s per channel,about 12 w start up current...just over half what this controller is rated for per channel.
> Thing is Ceadder,this rig is being displayed by XSPC in 2 weeks time,I really dont want to be making a whole new face plate for a new controller,this is why i threw good money after bad to ensure i didnt have to.
> 
> Now im £60 out of pocket and STILL have to make a new plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GVANS FTW!


12W and it caught fire?!


----------



## _TRU_

hey i wanted to get some advice on a custom loop. it's my sig rig. i was thinking of putting another h60, + a h100, but i figured the custom loop would be cooler & quieter. it will be my 1st time trying a custom loop so be gentle on my pocket. here's what the rig looks like atm.



the space at the bottom will have a PSU cover extending from the front of the case over the psu. however there will be a lot of space at the bottom since i'm going to replace the GS800 with a AX850 so i figured i could put the rad in there. also since it's a 600T there is room up top.

i was thinking it would have a dual 5.25 res, a rad on the bottom, and a thin rad up top in the fan space on the outside. or inside if the tubing wont work that way.

the flow would be something like clockwise going from bottom rad to 5.25 res to top rad to cpu, to gfx back to bottom rad.

Suggestions & links appreciated


----------



## wermad

Didn't G-Vans rip off all Lamptron designs? (disgruntled ex-employees, ?)

I had a ton of issues w/ the NZXT controller. EVentually, they sent me a slightly lesser model even though i paid for the higher end one







. No explanation and no other compensation. It works so I can't complain about that









Sorry to hear about your failed controller B-Negative.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 4 SP120s per channel,about 12 w start up current...just over half what this controller is rated for per channel.
> Thing is Ceadder,this rig is being displayed by XSPC in 2 weeks time,I really dont want to be making a whole new face plate for a new controller,this is why i threw good money after bad to ensure i didnt have to.
> 
> Now im £60 out of pocket and STILL have to make a new plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GVANS FTW!


Sorry for the double post, but mate imho, save yourself some cash, get Steve(specialtech) or anyone else you know to lend you the lamptron version i was talking about-i think that the dimensions are the same, and you can also change the display colour to the red you are using atm.

That will cover your b*tt for the XSPC showing, then you can rip Lamptron a new one afterwards.
I dont see the sense of making a new plate so soon to the show.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Sorry for the double post, but mate imho, save yourself some cash, get Steve(specialtech) or anyone else you know to lend you the lamptron version i was talking about-i think that the dimensions are the same, and you can also change the display colour to the red you are using atm.
> That will cover your b*tt for the XSPC showing, then you can rip Lamptron a new one afterwards.
> I dont see the sense of making a new plate so soon to the show.


The ST guys have already tried to help but they dont have one is stock,they are about to order from Lamptron too...Ayd saw my FB post and is a little concerned.


----------



## PTCB

Nothing fancy, just a follow-up on the intial post. Leak-testing the W/C loop in gf's rig.



Just a question, when you see air trapped in the tubing (I'm talking about a whole section) while pump is running at full speed does it mean that the pump is not strong enough for the loop?

Cheers.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> hey i wanted to get some advice on a custom loop. it's my sig rig. i was thinking of putting another h60, + a h100, but i figured the custom loop would be cooler & quieter. it will be my 1st time trying a custom loop so be gentle on my pocket. here's what the rig looks like atm.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the space at the bottom will have a PSU cover extending from the front of the case over the psu. however there will be a lot of space at the bottom since i'm going to replace the GS800 with a AX850 so i figured i could put the rad in there. also since it's a 600T there is room up top.
> i was thinking it would have a dual 5.25 res, a rad on the bottom, and a thin rad up top in the fan space on the outside. or inside if the tubing wont work that way.
> the flow would be something like clockwise going from bottom rad to 5.25 res to top rad to cpu, to gfx back to bottom rad.
> Suggestions & links appreciated


Your 600T internal layout is the same as mine (650D) with a few exceptions (e.g. top space). You can look at my main rig: SE, for some ideas. 200mm Phobya mounted at the front is quite popular with 600T and 650D. You might want to check that out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Nothing fancy, just a follow-up on the intial post. Leak-testing the W/C loop in gf's rig.
> 
> Just a question, when you see air trapped in the tubing (I'm talking about a whole section) while pump is running at full speed does it mean that the pump is not strong enough for the loop?
> Cheers.


It means you probably have an airlock,give the case a good tip about


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They wouldnt sponsor this build or replace this controller but they want to get involved with any new builds that i do....
> NO CHANCE!
> I will not use a Lamptron product again unless this problem is sorted first.
> Im not throwing away yet more money on rubbish controllers.


I've had an FC8 and FC9 replaced due to failure. Not worth it, IMO, and I won't be buying any more when these quit. The other thing about Lamptron is the "backwards" way they regulate voltage off the negative side which renders them unusable with other devices to measure rpm. (see earlier post by IT Diva for details on FC9)

I finally went with an Aquaero 5 on the new build and I am very happy with it.

Kudos to Ceadderman for tip on silicon grease for valves. I have some Dow Corning vacuum grease that is inert and works very well as a lubricant. Not bad on protecting weatherstripping either, though very sticky.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I've had an FC8 and FC9 replaced due to failure. Not worth it, IMO, and I won't be buying any more when these quit. The other thing about Lamptron is the "backwards" way they regulate voltage off the negative side which renders them unusable with other devices to measure rpm. (see earlier post by IT Diva for details on FC9)
> I finally went with an Aquaero 5 on the new build and I am very happy with it.
> Kudos to Ceadderman for tip on silicon grease for valves. I have some Dow Corning vacuum grease that is inert and works very well as a lubricant. Not bad on protecting weatherstripping either, though very sticky.












More damage.....

I hope the fans are ok......


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love those backplates! Do you know if BP sells them separately?
> Run Surround and four comes in handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For a single screen, three is the sweet spot


I think I've seen them in Bitspower page and come in different colors.

Radiator Grill 240 custom. You will see two holes for the gripper arms of the reservoir! xD



















My new cover SLI BRIDGE custom.










Top COVER for AquaComputer AquaGrafX 580Gtx.



















BACKPLATES!



















AQUACOMPUTER SINGLE PCI SLOT 580GTX










BITSPOWER MINI VALVE BLACK MATT










BITSPOWER CRISTAL STOP FITTINGS RED LED










AQUACOMPUTER TWINCONNECT 5 SLOT










HW BLACK ICE SR-1 120










HW BLACK ICE SR-1 360


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> ...
> These clamps are gorgeous, but not based on new design-one of my other hobbies is racing mountain bikes, i have a titanium bike and a carbon framed model-such clamps(usually made of titanium) have been used for years to secure the seat tube of high end bikes.
> Still look good though-great photography as always Bund
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


They are also common on skewers for the wheels







.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Which model Enermax fans are those please-i cant tell because they are partially hidden in your rig(nice rig BTW)


The Fans are Enermax T.B. Silence.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It means you probably have an airlock,give the case a good tip about


Thank you, sir.









But how did it happen though? I filled and drained my main rig more than 5 times and have just only experienced it in this rig/loop.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I've had an FC8 and FC9 replaced due to failure. Not worth it, IMO, and I won't be buying any more when these quit. The other thing about Lamptron is the "backwards" way they regulate voltage off the negative side which renders them unusable with other devices to measure rpm. (see earlier post by IT Diva for details on FC9)
> I finally went with an Aquaero 5 on the new build and I am very happy with it.
> Kudos to Ceadderman for tip on silicon grease for valves. I have some Dow Corning vacuum grease that is inert and works very well as a lubricant. Not bad on protecting weatherstripping either, though very sticky.


I hope the FC5v2 I just bought works ok. Not sure I can trust it now.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More damage.....
> I hope the fans are ok......


Dang B. That could of been a lot worse. That takes some major heat to melt the sleeving that bad. It would of had to been on fire as well because of the black smoke damage on the wire insulation. They are lucky theres not a lawsuit headed there way. Just be thankful you were there when it happened and it didnt get worse.

Now Im rather worried about my FC8V2... Only one fan per channel though. Any other good options out there that look as good?


----------



## RKTGX95

What should i get for my XT45 rad: Corsair's SP120 HP and run them on 7v (adapter) or the SP120 QE at full 12v ?


----------



## scogoth

This is my first water cooled build and I just finished everything yesterday with the interior lighting.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scogoth*
> 
> This is my first water cooled build and I just finished everything yesterday with the interior lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job, The stock covers on the graphics card is cool idea.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scogoth*
> 
> This is my first water cooled build and I just finished everything yesterday with the interior lighting.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whats up with those GPUs? how'd you do that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Dang B. That could of been a lot worse. That takes some major heat to melt the sleeving that bad. It would of had to been on fire as well because of the black smoke damage on the wire insulation. They are lucky theres not a lawsuit headed there way. Just be thankful you were there when it happened and it didnt get worse.
> Now Im rather worried about my FC8V2... Only one fan per channel though. Any other good options out there that look as good?


The US Lamptron rep is looking into it for me,because these have had the front panels modded (screws removed and cyanoacrylate dotted in to stop it falling off) RMA wont be entertained from the vendor and rightly so,they shouldnt have to swallow defects like this.


----------



## scogoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Whats up with those GPUs? how'd you do that?


I cut them up! Took some time but when I got all my parts the EKWB CSQ block wasn't announced for the 680 FTWs plus I don't like to CSQ look.


----------



## Ceadderman

Wish I could find EK Uni Bridge blocks. Only PPCs' really had them and now that EK went to their sturpid Bubble design it's damned right impossible to find them and a Parralel Block.















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Dang B. That could of been a lot worse. That takes some major heat to melt the sleeving that bad. It would of had to been on fire as well because of the black smoke damage on the wire insulation. They are lucky theres not a lawsuit headed there way. Just be thankful you were there when it happened and it didnt get worse.
> Now Im rather worried about my FC8V2... Only one fan per channel though. Any other good options out there that look as good?
> 
> 
> 
> The US Lamptron rep is looking into it for me,because these have had the front panels modded (screws removed and cyanoacrylate dotted in to stop it falling off) RMA wont be entertained from the vendor and rightly so,they shouldnt have to swallow defects like this.
Click to expand...

Modded or not, thing should not have caught fire. Pretty sad that it did all you changed were the LED color and unless you accidentally bridged a connection(highly doubtful) Lamptron should at least get you another to get you through the Event. This way they save face, you make your event and everyone is happier all around. I don't expect them to RMA the unit but 60 Quid is still 60 Quid so it's worth conferencing with them and see what arrangement they can come too, to everyones satisfaction.









*Edit* Just changed out the last two EK fittings and re-pinned my splitter harness to keep the blasted thing from coming off the controller. That was pretty quick even for me. I think the longest part was when I was tearing up the house looking for my replacement pins. This place is still in disarray a month removed from carpeting. I seriously need to get my Workbench here so I will know right where everything is at. Gonna have to replace the top to accommodate the Anti-Static mat that I have in the corner of one of the rooms. But at least my work area is being fixed up proper. Just need to start going through boxes to find everything and put it in its proper place.









~Ceadder


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scogoth*
> 
> This is my first water cooled build and I just finished everything yesterday with the interior lighting.


Looks very nice.

It's odd seeing you and mkenyon over here...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Modded or not, thing should not have caught fire. Pretty sad that it did all you changed were the LED color and unless you accidentally bridged a connection(highly doubtful) Lamptron should at least get you another to get you through the Event. This way they save face, you make your event and everyone is happier all around. I don't expect them to RMA the unit but 60 Quid is still 60 Quid so it's worth conferencing with them and see what arrangement they can come too, to everyones satisfaction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Didnt even do that Ceadder,this was a direct unit swap from the last fc6 which had a dead channel.
First time i put power thru it and that was that.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> Acrylic covers black matt are custom made and CNC cut.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


May I ask what paint was used to paint your plates or were they powder coated?


----------



## NewHighScore

Almost finished just a few more wires and a couple finishing touches.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scogoth*
> 
> I cut them up! Took some time but when I got all my parts the EKWB CSQ block wasn't announced for the 680 FTWs plus I don't like to CSQ look.


dude thats crazy and is good and bad.. the reason of watercooling besides to lower the temps better than air is reduce the noise of your rig, by doing that you you still having the noise of the stock fans of those gpus.. altough it look kickass


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Almost finished just a few more wires and a couple finishing touches.


That is very nice.







Black and Yellow is a nice color combo.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Almost finished just a few more wires and a couple finishing touches.


look so awsome.. i want a pump+reservoir like yours so freaking bad.. but i have 2 res+pumps combos just in case.. i guess i need to sell them and but what you have


----------



## NewHighScore

^^









I have 2 reservoirs but 1 pump







. I use a dual bay d5 reservoir to hide the pump.


----------



## Systemlord

I have been having some problems lately when buying Bitspower products and wanted to know if anybody knows how I would be able to purchase Bitspower products with gold logos and emblems instead of having them mismatched colors.

It seems lately I have been receiving gold and silver versions of Bitspower products, my build must have the gold logos and emblems because I've spent hundreds of dollars worth of Bitspower products in the gold versions. Now I have a small mix of both and frankly is driving me nuts!


----------



## wermad

Very heavy and a different approach for the mounting bracket. Good think i kept my EK "true lga1155" rear bracket


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very heavy and a different approach for the mounting bracket. Good think i kept my EK "true lga1155" rear bracket


that is a good think! lol


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> dude thats crazy and is good and bad.. the reason of watercooling besides to lower the temps better than air is reduce the noise of your rig, by doing that you you still having the noise of the stock fans of those gpus.. altough it look kickass


He can unplug the fans, or just turn them down to like 10% with EVGA precision, so he can still keep the VRM cool


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> that is a good think! lol












I kept my EK backplate as I know some blocks don't have any rear mounting-retention bracket. I was tempted to get a Koolance 370 but this is gonna be a subtle tribute to DD, so its fitting to use their blocks











edit: Main concern is to not put a lot of unnecessary strain on the mb pcb


----------



## Phelan

gotchya. I really, really like the bracket that came with my Apogee Drive II.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kept my EK backplate as I know some blocks don't have any rear mounting-retention bracket. I was tempted to get a Koolance 370 but this is gonna be a subtle tribute to DD, so its fitting to use their blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Main concern is to not put a lot of unnecessary strain on the mb pcb


I used an EK intel block hold down for the Z77...










Scrapyard engineering at its finest...


----------



## wermad

Looks like the Supreme and Supreme HF rev.1 front block bracket?. Noyce, a backplate


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like the Supreme and Supreme HF rev.1 front block bracket?. Noyce, a backplate


Works a treat too.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *relent107*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. Sometimes I wish I didn't sleep in the same room as my PC. I'd make it bling bling if I didn't.


----------



## wermad

Ghetto backplates ftw!!!


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

I figured all you cats out there trying to shove multiple CLC kits in ther rig for CPU and GPU mods would appreciate this little guy.

here is a kit from asetek that can help yal out. Also comes in a 240 rad variant.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Almost finished just a few more wires and a couple finishing touches.


That's looking great! *heads over to log now to hopefully see some more pics*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> dude thats crazy and is good and bad.. the reason of watercooling besides to lower the temps better than air is reduce the noise of your rig, by doing that you you still having the noise of the stock fans of those gpus.. altough it look kickass


With his GPU temps being so low from the water block, that fan will never ramp up to a speed that is audible on the stock fan profile. Also like that other guy said before me, he could even step the fan speed down manually, but I wouldn't go as low as 10%.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ghetto backplates ftw!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nothing ghetto about that,you did a good job there Werm.









How about some fullcover stickers made up with inkjet sticker sheets?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nothing ghetto about that,you did a good job there Werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about some fullcover stickers made up with inkjet sticker sheets?


I have a friend who knows a friend (







) that has a vinyl cutting machine. Might get something done to spruce it up.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's looking great! *heads over to log now to hopefully see some more pics*
> With his GPU temps being so low from the water block, that fan will never ramp up to a speed that is audible on the stock fan profile. Also like that other guy said before me, he could even step the fan speed down manually, but I wouldn't go as low as 10%.


Thanks moddermike! I suck at taking pictures really bad







. Once I get my backplates and psu cover I will *attempt* to take lots of proper photos. I still need to sleeve up my fans and trim the cabling too!


----------



## nleksan

Hey everyone!

I am getting closed to finished with my (long-time-in-the-works) Switch 810 build, just need to do a couple more things and I am hoping to get there today/tomorrow!

Unfortunately, I am stuck in regards to how I should setup my pumps as I now have two reservoirs... I have both an EK Multioption X2 150 Advanced as well as an XSPC Single-5.25 bay res, and 2x MCP35X pumps. I have the two reservoirs because, well, I was getting so frustrated with the POS EK clamps that I wanted a backup, but managed to get some Bitspower wrap-around clamps that work great, so I have two and would like to use both as I understand it can make filling and bleeding easier, as well as reducing turbulence in whatever res feeds the pump(s).

I have my loop planned as: pump - 240 (bottom) - GPU - 420 (top) - CPU - res

I am not sure if I should have the last part go from the CPU to the EK to the XSPC and have the pump mounted in the drive-bay connected to the bay res via 90deg dual-rotary + male-male fittings, or if I should have it go CPU to XSPC to EK with the pump mounted directly to the bottom of the EK res, as shown in the pictures below.... If I were to do the drive-bay mounting, I could use both pumps, having one fed directly from the res and then feeding directly into the second pump via another 90deg + male-male fitting combo, but as I have yet to get a second GPU I don't know that I really have any possible need for the second pump in my loop, outside of redundancy (and I only have a heatsink for one of them, as I intend on getting the MCP35X2-Housing to do the dual-pump thing "properly").

Anyway, here are some pictures of my setup (haven't connected tubing yet), and I would REALLY appreciate any advice!

Here is the most current picture I have of the overall build (I have since installed the Hydra Pro fan controller in the top 5.25 bay)


Here are the fittings and whatnot that I still have to work with:



Spoiler: More to see...









Here are a few shots of the bay-res, from inside:



AND....here are some more pics I have taken recently, with a spoiler tag for all but one so that it isn't going to go crazy with bandwidth:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

































[IMG ALT="NEW SWAG!!!
- XSPC Single-5.25 Bay Reservoir with LED, 4x Swiftech 15mm Extension Fittings, 12x Akust Copper BGA Heatsinks and 4x Aluminum Heatsinks, 2x Bitspower 60mm Z-Tank Res Holders, 1x Danger Den Fillport Res (forgot to get the fill-port, doh!), 6x more Monsoon 1/2x3/4 matte-black Compression Fittings, R.A.T.3 mouse, and Bitspower: Y-splitter rotary fitting, ball-valve fitting, 2x 90deg single-rotary, 1x 90deg dual-rotary, 1x rotary extension, 1x 45deg single-rotary adapter, 1x 45deg dual-rotary 1/2x3/4 fitting, 1x thru-panel fitting, and 1x 90deg dual-rotary adapter..."]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1126463/width/350/height/700[/IMG]








Thanks for looking, and a huge thanks for any advice!

EDIT: Sorry for the bad picture quality, I had my D3100 set to "auto" as I was in a hurry, and I just did a rush-job converting them from .raw to .jpeg via Picasa, so they look grainy :/


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have a friend who knows a friend (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) that has a vinyl cutting machine. Might get something done to spruce it up.


It would really complete the look, custom backplates with some awesome sauce stickers.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It would really complete the look, custom backplates with some awesome sauce stickers.


Yeah, its a bit barren but still looks good though







. Maybe just a "GTX 580 3GB" in white to break up the silhouette. I managed to salvage the 4th one i fudged up. Just needed a few more cuts to clear the rear i/o components, the PEX heatsink, and the ram slots for the top most card. Almost there. I'll be putting a log together later today or tomorrow.

Btw, any one know of a US member that can do custom vinyl graphics?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Almost finished just a few more wires and a couple finishing touches.


Looking good indeed
















The hard work and patience shows.

Darlene


----------



## wermad

Down the home stretch


----------



## scogoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> dude thats crazy and is good and bad.. the reason of watercooling besides to lower the temps better than air is reduce the noise of your rig, by doing that you you still having the noise of the stock fans of those gpus.. altough it look kickass


They don't run over 35%. There are a ton of heat sinks on the heat plate to cool the vram and power circuitry. Its more for aesthetics than anything.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> dude thats crazy and is good and bad.. the reason of watercooling besides to lower the temps better than air is reduce the noise of your rig, by doing that you you still having the noise of the stock fans of those gpus.. altough it look kickass
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *scogoth*
> 
> They don't run over 35%. There are a ton of heat sinks on the heat plate to cool the vram and power circuitry. Its more for aesthetics than anything.
Click to expand...

this. This setup has been done before and it works great. Is very clean since you retain the coolers housing. Nvidia turbine coolers (and the latest Amd ones) are pretty quiet under 50% load. Since he has no worries to cool the gpu with the stock cooler, he can keep a lower rpm on the turbine fan and thus reduce noise









Awesome job scogoth


----------



## kyismaster

lol, I wonder what monsoon is sending me. They accepted my sponsorship request but, o___O they didn't really specify....

but my petra's 3/8 duralene came in as you can see!

I didn't really expect the tube to be 1/4 inch thick though....

oh, and jab-tech sent me a stack of fans, lol


----------



## Plutonium10

I still haven't managed to make my Bitspower ball valve budge at all. This morning I soaked it in hot water and twisted the handle as hard as I dared but no luck. It wont even move enough to work silicon grease into the valve bushing. Has anybody else had this problem?


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I still haven't managed to make my Bitspower ball valve budge at all. This morning I soaked it in hot water and twisted the handle as hard as I dared but no luck. It wont even move enough to work silicon grease into the valve bushing. Has anybody else had this problem?


I have 2 of those and the first time I tried to twist it, it took a considerable amount of force. Perhaps you could try do it in one swift motion?or its really that hard pliers and thick towels? lol Just make sure you are turning it in the right direction


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Down the home stretch


Wasn't it just like two months ago that you had "given up watercooling"????


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Wasn't it just like two months ago that you had "given up watercooling"????


~4 months ago to be exact







. I've been back for ~2 months now









I like air cooling. but I needed more hp for MMG, so it was a must to go water. Plus, this is my last push (don't hold me on this







) since the misus said no more







. Might as well get a nice setup to last me a year or two.

Might change my case though. That HAF XB is ultra temping.....









edit: also, I gave up on the problematic EVGA Z77. That mb has a good layout for triple air cooled dual slot cards. Sucks it fails miserably in the bios.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Screw it! Go for a CL!









Of course, this is coming from a guy who is separated from his wife...


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> I have 2 of those and the first time I tried to twist it, it took a considerable amount of force. Perhaps you could try do it in one swift motion?or its really that hard pliers and thick towels? lol Just make sure you are turning it in the right direction


Yeah... Maybe I'll try adding a bit more force and if the handle breaks, then the bushing is clearly too tight.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I still haven't managed to make my Bitspower ball valve budge at all. This morning I soaked it in hot water and twisted the handle as hard as I dared but no luck. It wont even move enough to work silicon grease into the valve bushing. Has anybody else had this problem?


I have had my Bitspower Ball Valve for almost two months and after hearing of your issue turning it, I just turned my valve for the very first time with it still in it's plastic packaging. No problems here and it turned easily, sorry bud! Where did you buy it?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looking good indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hard work and patience shows.
> Darlene


Thanks a bunch Diva! It means a lot to me coming from THE switch enthusiast.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> May I ask what paint was used to paint your plates or were they powder coated?


These are matte black acrylic and are already painted. Are placed above the block, not replace the steel lid of the block.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Screw it! Go for a CL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, this is coming from a guy who is separated from his wife...


lol. I wish. An STH10 down the road. The heavy gpu blocks would definitely benefit from a "Horizon" setup. This better be my last upgrade for some time or I'll be joining the singles club soon


----------



## wermad

Excuse the double post. My loop is pretty much done. Just a few more mods to finish and tidying up the wire management. I'm done for tonight. Just need to tweak the oc and do some benchies


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I have had my Bitspower Ball Valve for almost two months and after hearing of your issue turning it, I just turned my valve for the very first time with it still in it's plastic packaging. No problems here and it turned easily, sorry bud! Where did you buy it?


Finally got it to shut (almost). I was certain the handle would break but it eventually moved. Anyway, it still only closes about 85% of the way but now I can dab some silicon grease on the ball and try to loosen it up.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lol. I wish. An STH10 down the road. The heavy gpu blocks would definitely benefit from a "Horizon" setup. This better be my last upgrade for some time or I'll be joining the singles club soon


I here ya. Fortunately for me, my wife is understanding, and we both get a small weekly budget to spend on whatever we want. She doesn't understand why I spend all mine on computer parts, and I don't understand why she spends all hers on clothes







. By mutually not understanding, we both understand eachother







.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I here ya. Fortunately for me, my wife is understanding, and we both get a small weekly budget to spend on whatever we want. She doesn't understand why I spend all mine on computer parts, and I don't understand why she spends all hers on clothes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . By mutually not understanding, we both understand eachother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Mind = blown


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> They are also common on skewers for the wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yep









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> The Fans are Enermax T.B. Silence.


Thanks very much for the info








(psst! Hey Enermax, whats with the pink boxes







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Almost finished just a few more wires and a couple finishing touches.


Very nice colour scheme, neat loop-well done mate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Finally got it to shut (almost). I was certain the handle would break but it eventually moved. Anyway, it still only closes about 85% of the way but now I can dab some silicon grease on the ball and try to loosen it up.


I dont want to tempt fate, but would'nt you be better off RMAing it?
If you break it, you may have a hard time returning it-what im saying may sound obvious, but you seem obsessed with getting it to work mate


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Finally got it to shut (almost). I was certain the handle would break but it eventually moved. Anyway, it still only closes about 85% of the way but now I can dab some silicon grease on the ball and try to loosen it up.


Yeah, they are tough normally I think but it shouldn't be that hard. I was worried the first time I turned mine that the handle was going to snap - but it held and I just turned it with constant force (by hand). However, past the initial stiffness it moved pretty smoothly. I'd recommend just RMA that one because it sounds like it didn't get assembled quite right to me.


----------



## Ceadderman

I want to get a Ram Block that covers two Doms in a three channel spread. Anyone know of any block that does that or am I stuck having to get a 4 channel block?









~Ceadder


----------



## _TRU_

ok. here's kinda how i think it should go:


& here's a list of stuff i put on a el @ fzn-cpu:


is this over kill for a budget? i was leaning to the 5.25 res & pump combo. less hassle & i only have 1 bay left w current fc.

ideas & pump, fittings, tubing & block recommendations? (i have 2x gtx460, both EE versions)

also feel free to adjust my wl. looks really exp as is :X


----------



## derickwm

I'm not usually one for all in one units but... How could I say no for $25 picked up?










Be a good tester


----------



## teamrushpntball

TRU it looks to me like you have 3 reservoirs in there. Unless you want all 3 for appearances you only need 1.

Also, the GT Stealth will fit just fine. Had a 360mm one up top in my 600T. But be warned, it is a very tight fit especially with an 8-pin power cable up top.


----------



## PTCB

@TRU

Make sure you double check the amount of space you have on the top. Even my 650D, it's a tight fit up there. Some people avoid the issue by offsetting the rad. Also, after you mounted the 200mm at the front, there isn't much space left to be honest.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm not usually one for all in one units but... How could I say no for $25 picked up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be a good tester


Can't beat that with a sharp poke in the eye.









Hey Jefe ju gon get back to me? Even if no deal es no problema senor.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm not usually one for all in one units but... How could I say no for $25 picked up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be a good tester


*
THIS^^*

25 USD for that is a steal bud!

Good for you


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can't beat that with a sharp poke in the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Jefe ju gon get back to me? Even if no deal es no problema senor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oops sorry man. Your PM got buried. I'll respond right now.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I here ya. Fortunately for me, my wife is understanding, and we both get a small weekly budget to spend on whatever we want. She doesn't understand why I spend all mine on computer parts, and I don't understand why she spends all hers on clothes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . By mutually not understanding, we both understand eachother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Good stuff man. The wife and I are like that too! She orders hello kitty stuff from ebay and I order PC parts. All my spending money goes into PC stuff just like you.







I still like to joke about her taking my balls in my sleep though. I definitely go over budget with mine sometimes








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Very nice colour scheme, neat loop-well done mate


Thanks kkorky!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I want to get a Ram Block that covers two Doms in a three channel spread. Anyone know of any block that does that or am I stuck having to get a 4 channel block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


4 channel unless you can put the RAM side by side.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/ram-blocks/ek-ram-dominator-x2-acetal-nickel.html


----------



## derickwm

I think this one will help ya: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2786

Edit, anyone else miss the EK Nickel backplates? I know I do... so so much.


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> @TRU
> Make sure you double check the amount of space you have on the top. Even my 650D, it's a tight fit up there. Some people avoid the issue by offsetting the rad. Also, after you mounted the 200mm at the front, there isn't much space left to be honest.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> TRU it looks to me like you have 3 reservoirs in there. Unless you want all 3 for appearances you only need 1.
> Also, the GT Stealth will fit just fine. Had a 360mm one up top in my 600T. But be warned, it is a very tight fit especially with an 8-pin power cable up top.


ok, how's this?:


parts: (missing fittings, tubing, CPU block)

may change those vga blocks to 2x "Thermaltake Aquarius II VGA Waterblock CL-W0038"

or i can be lazy, & buy another h60 and an h100.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> ok, how's this?:
> 
> parts: (missing fittings, tubing, CPU block)
> 
> may change those vga blocks to 2x "Thermaltake Aquarius II VGA Waterblock CL-W0038"
> or i can be lazy, & buy another h60 and an h100.


Run the flow the other way, the res needs to feed the pump.

Darlene


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Run the flow the other way, the res needs to feed the pump.
> Darlene


i was actually just looking @ that. makes more sense. ty.

parts look good though?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Magoo approves this post!


----------



## derickwm

Magoo!


----------



## BiaBia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> ok, how's this?:
> 
> parts: (missing fittings, tubing, CPU block)
> 
> may change those vga blocks to 2x "Thermaltake Aquarius II VGA Waterblock CL-W0038"
> or i can be lazy, & buy another h60 and an h100.


With just a single 240 rad you're not going to be happy with temps if you cool both card and the CPU. I have the same case and started with just a phobya 200mm in the front on just the CPU and it wasn't much better than h100 temps. I added a 360 to the top and man that made a huge difference.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I want to get a Ram Block that covers two Doms in a three channel spread. Anyone know of any block that does that or am I stuck having to get a 4 channel block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


there's the koolance method for that - I think they've got per-stick cooling or something.


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiaBia*
> 
> With just a single 240 rad you're not going to be happy with temps if you cool both card and the CPU. I have the same case and started with just a phobya 200mm in the front on just the CPU and it wasn't much better than h100 temps. I added a 360 to the top and man that made a huge difference.


how about this: up the rad to a 360 or take out a card from the loop? i already have an h60, so i can xfer that to the main GPU then have the folding GPU in the loop.


----------



## BiaBia

It really depends on how OCD you are about temps. I'm very lol A 360 will handle the load better but again if you go for all three blocks you might not be getting the numbers you are hoping for. Also remember that a 360 on top takes modding the case ALOT. You'll have to cut the top metal and plastic to make it fit and you will lose the top drive bay. edit: (ok won't lose, but you won't be able to use it for anything that has length on it ie DVD drive or bay res)

What I would do if I was you is think about your ideal setup, then buy just enough to get you started. Last think you want to do is buy a 240 red if you'd rather have a 360 at some point because then you'd just have to sell the 240 and you'd lose money. Start with just the CPU and add GPUs and rads as funds become available. This way you're not buying things twice.


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiaBia*
> 
> It really depends on how OCD you are about temps. I'm very lol A 360 will handle the load better but again if you go for all three blocks you might not be getting the numbers you are hoping for. Also remember that a 360 on top takes modding the case ALOT. You'll have to cut the top metal and plastic to make it fit and you will lose the top drive bay.


top drive bay is no real loss. i modded it to hold a monitor in a custom dual 5.25 bay. the bay has no time or bottom, just sides.


----------



## HulkMode

Here is a little preview of my new build, still need to come up with a name.
Getting a Devil13 7990 shipped in next week so this will finish this puppy off.
Any suggestions are more than welcome.


----------



## Fonne

Has any tried these ? -

XSPC Universal RAM Spreaders

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16822/ex-blc-1201/XSPC_Universal_RAM_Spreaders_for_Memory_Copper_Waterblock_Twin_Pack.html?tl=g30c225

(Just me, or are the memory block from EK ? - Together with a XSPC product, wierd)

- Is thinking about getting them to put on my TridentX, but would love to hear what people think about them - Quality etc ...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Has any tried these ? -
> XSPC Universal RAM Spreaders
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16822/ex-blc-1201/XSPC_Universal_RAM_Spreaders_for_Memory_Copper_Waterblock_Twin_Pack.html?tl=g30c225
> (Just me, or are the memory block from EK ? - Together with a XSPC product, wierd)
> - Is thinking about getting them to put on my TridentX, but would love to hear what people think about them - Quality etc ...


They're used to make any memory stick compatible with dominator water blocks, be it an XSPC water block, an EK water block, or another brand. I haven't personally used them but they look good (IMO).

[off topic] We could use some more people in this month's foldathon. Prizes are to be won as well. [/off topic]


----------



## Tarnix

Pff I just went through a good bunch of unread posts, here's the QuoteMONSTER
*I still have around 5 pages to go x,..,x
Long posts and photobombs has been cut down to reduce load.*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Finally Replaced my cracked rez, here are some crappy pics of it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*Shiiiii- How'd you manage that?*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ok, because I'm bored
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit...wow that looks nothing like it did in CS6 before saving


*Very Nice!







*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> not sure where you from but the $.90 a gallon off the shelf can't be beat.


*I have access to distilled water very easily here, my loop probably will be using that, whenever I get time/money to throw at it.
I really need a primer on water-cooling liquids.*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> ...got something from New York City in the mail today................................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*Since I can't stop listening to Infected Mushrooms lately, all I can think about is: Army of mushrooms!*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> I think I've seen them in Bitspower page and come in different colors.
> Radiator Grill 240 custom. You will see two holes for the gripper arms of the reservoir! xD
> BACKPLATES!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*Man I love some honeycomb/hexagon







*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scogoth*
> 
> This is my first water cooled build and I just finished everything yesterday with the interior lighting.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> AND....here are some more pics I have taken recently, with a spoiler tag for all but one so that it isn't going to go crazy with bandwidth:


Nice shot!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Down the home stretch


Plexi? Either way; ballin'









*EDIT: I will edit/post later about something, I just want to catch up on the pr0n







*


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I want to get a Ram Block that covers two Doms in a three channel spread. Anyone know of any block that does that or am I stuck having to get a 4 channel block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4 channel unless you can put the RAM side by side.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/ram-blocks/ek-ram-dominator-x2-acetal-nickel.html
Click to expand...

Yeah I could run my RAM side by side but then it's not optimal for operational speed. Not to mention not very good for keeping clocks stable. But thank you for confirming my suspicions. It is much appreciated. I guess I've got to just bite the bullet an get a 4 channel block. It will have my OCD workin overtime but some things can't be helped.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I want to get a Ram Block that covers two Doms in a three channel spread. Anyone know of any block that does that or am I stuck having to get a 4 channel block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there's the koolance method for that - I think they've got per-stick cooling or something.
Click to expand...

Yeah um no. I'm not spending good money on Dominators and then removing the heat spreaders to water cool my sticks. That was why I went back to Doms. I don't know why nobody makes a 3 stick block considering they make 6 stick blocks. People like me won't be running 4 sticks so there will be a ledge there with a 4 stick block. That's gonna play hell on my OCD enough as it is. Removing the heatspreaders would make things worse. I can lapp a CPU and eat the warranty. Pulling the heat spreaders off my RAM when it has a Lifetime Warranty, not so much. Some things just aren't worth that much hassle.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiaBia*
> 
> It really depends on how OCD you are about temps. I'm very lol A 360 will handle the load better but again if you go for all three blocks you might not be getting the numbers you are hoping for. Also remember that a 360 on top takes modding the case ALOT. You'll have to cut the top metal and plastic to make it fit and you will lose the top drive bay. edit: (ok won't lose, but you won't be able to use it for anything that has length on it ie DVD drive or bay res)
> 
> What I would do if I was you is think about your ideal setup, then buy just enough to get you started. Last think you want to do is buy a 240 red if you'd rather have a 360 at some point because then you'd just have to sell the 240 and you'd lose money. Start with just the CPU and add GPUs and rads as funds become available. This way you're not buying things twice.


Depends on the depth of the Case correlated to the length of the Radiator. I have a 360 in mine and have plenty of room for a Bay Res. I can't put anything with substantial length into the top 2 slots but I can go with a shallow 5.25 device as well as shallow Bay Res like Frozen Q, Aquacomputer, BP or some other Res. The Pump Res setups are mostly out though cause they'll be running into the fittings and would block access to the fillpoint of my case.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BiaBia*
> 
> It really depends on how OCD you are about temps. I'm very lol A 360 will handle the load better but again if you go for all three blocks you might not be getting the numbers you are hoping for. Also remember that a 360 on top takes modding the case ALOT. You'll have to cut the top metal and plastic to make it fit and you will lose the top drive bay.
> 
> 
> 
> top drive bay is no real loss. i modded it to hold a monitor in a custom dual 5.25 bay. the bay has no time or bottom, just sides.
Click to expand...

Ahhh then I would suggest to go with a 360. Just measure out the length of whichever 360 you get. I have GT Stealth 360 an have plenty of room for my Bay Res Fillport.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Has any tried these ? -
> 
> XSPC Universal RAM Spreaders
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16822/ex-blc-1201/XSPC_Universal_RAM_Spreaders_for_Memory_Copper_Waterblock_Twin_Pack.html?tl=g30c225
> 
> (Just me, or are the memory block from EK ? - Together with a XSPC product, wierd)
> 
> - Is thinking about getting them to put on my TridentX, but would love to hear what people think about them - Quality etc ...


Looks like EK finally started doing something about their CSQ crop circles. That's a new EK top. Now if only I can get one for a 4 channel cooler.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tarnix

ARG! I finally read them. *dead*
Okay, so there's the question/rant:
I recently swapped my M4A87D/USB3 for an ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z and I wanted to know if anyone was aware of any kind of VRM cooling for this? (This is the AMD board, not Intel) Because those things gets toasty.

Another question: I currently have a case named "Antec Darkfleet DF-30" (and I honestly don't recommend it for OCN). Cable management is horrible (see rig pics), there's no space whatsoever in that thing as soon as you drop a H80. Since I'm horrible at managing space, the more interior space, the better. At all costs, it needs to be larger than this Antec thing.
Quote:


> Unit Dimension
> 
> 485mm (H) x 198mm (W) x 486mm (D)
> 19.1" (H) x 7.8" (W) x 19.1" (D)
> Weight: 15.1 lb / 6.9 kg


Closing panels is a pain. I did look into the Swift 810 and the Carbide 500R. I personally lean toward the Carbide, what do you guys think?

Problems/Rants:

Number 1:
I would prefer a clear-top CPU block, but if not possible, I would go with the XSPC Raystorm full copper. Any other alternative I should consider for AMD Phenom II X6? (not particularity hot, H80 + 3.7GHZ @ idle = 20°C / Load: 35-37 / Max (IBT): 42)

Number 2:
I would gladly water-cool my GPU, but I had to buy the worse recent fermi GPU ever: *ASUS ENGTX560 DC*.

Custom PCB, no block available, and only a single SLI connector.
That means that I either have to shell out around 500$ for GPU's with blocks (preferably a pair of GTX580) or just run buy another card like this one just to SLI it and bear the insane noise/heat it makes.









I'm not rolling on gold (850-ish/month) so I'm not too willing to spend for two new GPU :/

So you guys have an Idea or recommendations? I'll go and take an updated pic once I'm done cable-managing it.

P.S.: Color scheme aimed: Black/Red/White/Clay grey (sleeving)

Help?


----------



## hammerforged

Posted this in the Plasticizer thread but I thought you all might want to see this as well. Not a great test but hopefully it helps.

Got my Primochill advanced tubing in. Here are some pictures:





Durelene on the left



Durelene on the right





Thoughts:

The new Primochill is much stiffer and has a yellowish tent to it. Not much but when compared to the Durelene it is slightly yellow. The new Primochill is much stiffer than the Durelene and seems to be more resistant to kinking than the Durelene. Im not sure whats up with this whole system prep thing but I cant see myself using it if I were to every use this Primochill tubing. If anyone has any other questions please ask and Ill be sure to answer. Also if anyone wants more pictures or test as well please just let me know.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> They're used to make any memory stick compatible with dominator water blocks, be it an XSPC water block, an EK water block, or another brand. I haven't personally used them but they look good (IMO).
> [off topic] We could use some more people in this month's foldathon. Prizes are to be won as well. [/off topic]


Thanks, will take a closer look at them, but they look pretty nice








Quote:


> Looks like EK finally started doing something about their CSQ crop circles. That's a new EK top. Now if only I can get one for a 4 channel cooler. thumb.gif
> 
> ~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif


Really ? - If its a new EK top, then its great news


----------



## Bombadil411

Can I join?










This is my first water cooled system and I'm still running into some problems, but after looking at the temps it's getting me I see no reason to go back.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bombadil411*
> 
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first water cooled system and I'm still running into some problems, but after looking at the temps it's getting me I see no reason to go back.


That's a nice system (even if it had not been your first)!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> ARG! I finally read them. *dead*
> Okay, so there's the question/rant:
> I recently swapped my M4A87D/USB3 for an ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z and I wanted to know if anyone was aware of any kind of VRM cooling for this? (This is the AMD board, not Intel) Because those things gets toasty.
> Another question: I currently have a case named "Antec Darkfleet DF-30" (and I honestly don't recommend it for OCN). Cable management is horrible (see rig pics), there's no space whatsoever in that thing as soon as you drop a H80. Since I'm horrible at managing space, the more interior space, the better. At all costs, it needs to be larger than this Antec thing.
> Closing panels is a pain. I did look into the Swift 810 and the Carbide 500R. I personally lean toward the Carbide, what do you guys think?
> Problems/Rants:
> Number 1:
> I would prefer a clear-top CPU block, but if not possible, I would go with the XSPC Raystorm full copper. Any other alternative I should consider for AMD Phenom II X6? (not particularity hot, H80 + 3.7GHZ @ idle = 20°C / Load: 35-37 / Max (IBT): 42)
> Number 2:
> I would gladly water-cool my GPU, but I had to buy the worse recent fermi GPU ever: *ASUS ENGTX560 DC*.
> Custom PCB, no block available, and only a single SLI connector.
> That means that I either have to shell out around 500$ for GPU's with blocks (preferably a pair of GTX580) or just run buy another card like this one just to SLI it and bear the insane noise/heat it makes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not rolling on gold (850-ish/month) so I'm not too willing to spend for two new GPU :/
> So you guys have an Idea or recommendations? I'll go and take an updated pic once I'm done cable-managing it.
> P.S.: Color scheme aimed: Black/Red/White/Clay grey (sleeving)
> Help?


Buy 1 7970/50 or 680/70 and one block,if you are in the habit of changing GPUs every generation you are saving the cost of a GPU block on resale...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bombadil411*
> 
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first water cooled system and I'm still running into some problems, but after looking at the temps it's getting me I see no reason to go back.


BAD KINK!!

you will need to do something about that kink just by the drive bays,the tubing has properly collapsed

Welcome to the club.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bombadil411*
> 
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first water cooled system and I'm still running into some problems, but after looking at the temps it's getting me I see no reason to go back.


Where your tubing comes out the bay res. and goes behind the tray, it looks like it is kinking









Or is it just the camera?

I need to read and







quicker or just stop using emotion-cons


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Where your tubing comes out the bay res. and goes behind the tray, it looks like it is kinking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or is it just the camera?
> I need to read and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quicker or just stop using emotion-cons


Yes the 1 tube does look like it's kinking. Nice looking setup though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Where your tubing comes out the bay res. and goes behind the tray, it looks like it is kinking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or is it just the camera?
> I need to read and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quicker or just stop using emotion-cons
> 
> 
> 
> Yes the 1 tube does look like it's kinking. Nice looking setup though.
Click to expand...

I concur! It indeed looks like a proper flat.









An it is a hella clean looking system.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bombadil411*
> 
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first water cooled system and I'm still running into some problems, but after looking at the temps it's getting me I see no reason to go back.


Reminds me of my old 800D build but w/ two RX480s and a black/white theme


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bombadil411*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first water cooled system and I'm still running into some problems, but after looking at the temps it's getting me I see no reason to go back.


Is that also a slight kink from GPU to CPU?

Beats the pants off of my 1st, 2nd, and 3rd WC builds though


----------



## kyismaster

im loving those monsoon fittings


----------



## Tarnix

T_T After a painstaking hour, that's the cleanest I'll get from this case.
Cable management less half-assed, new motherboard, and I managed to tame those freaking Corsair XMS3 sticks (they're crapola, stay away!)


----------



## ikem

why do you have an sli bridge.... you cant sli those


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> why do you have an sli bridge.... you cant sli those


EDIT: Real answer:
I know I can't SLI those. I just did some goofing around since this is the first time I actually have two cards in the same machine and I did all sort of wacked stuff. I just didn't bothered removing it since it doesn't cause any issue.


----------



## jellis142

It doesn't hurt, but it doesn't help, and you don't need a bridge to enable PhysX







Isn't it funny how the 560 is smaller, yet faster? I love technology.


----------



## Tarnix

Well, at least I can't lose it like that (trust me that's a valid argument







)


----------



## Bombadil411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> BAD KINK!!
> you will need to do something about that kink just by the drive bays,the tubing has properly collapsed
> Welcome to the club.


Yep it's definitely kinked but my temps are still reasonable so I figured I would enjoy it for a couple of days before I have to totally drain it, I already have a 45 degree fitting that will fit there nicely and hopefully remedy it.

As for the Monsoon fittings, I liked them too as a first time builder. You can't tell from this picture, but I actually still had to use pliers to get some of them tight enough considering some angles and most of them have a few scratches from the pliers.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bombadil411*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> BAD KINK!!
> you will need to do something about that kink just by the drive bays,the tubing has properly collapsed
> Welcome to the club.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep it's definitely kinked but my temps are still reasonable so I figured I would enjoy it for a couple of days before I have to totally drain it, I already have a 45 degree fitting that will fit there nicely and hopefully remedy it.
> 
> As for the Monsoon fittings, I liked them too as a first time builder. You can't tell from this picture, but I actually still had to use pliers to get some of them tight enough considering some angles and most of them have a few scratches from the pliers.
Click to expand...

I love my Monsoons but it was hell trying to connect one up to a floating pump/Res kit. Every time I got the tubing flush with the barb enough to tighten the collar the tubing edge would slip into the open space. Which is kind of a good thing but it's very bad at the same time allowing for a leak. So I finally got fed up disconnected the collar on the Full Coverage inlet removed that end and it worked just fine after that. If you have any tension on the tubing it just wants to slip from the barb. At least my FC block is secured very well to the Mainboard so it allowed me to complete the circuit without much hassle that way. I only borked the exterior on one of my fittings from having to use Channel-Locs on it to get the collar off the barb. I wrapped the bastard 3 times round with Frog Tape an those Channel-Locs still managed to get a deep enough bite on the fitting to scratch it. I didn't even cross thread it. I guess I don't know my own strength. Good thing the fitting is in an unobscure location.









~Ceadder


----------



## itoxiczzhd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Posted this in the Plasticizer thread but I thought you all might want to see this as well. Not a great test but hopefully it helps.
> Got my Primochill advanced tubing in. Here are some pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Durelene on the left
> 
> Durelene on the right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts:
> The new Primochill is much stiffer and has a yellowish tent to it. Not much but when compared to the Durelene it is slightly yellow. The new Primochill is much stiffer than the Durelene and seems to be more resistant to kinking than the Durelene. Im not sure whats up with this whole system prep thing but I cant see myself using it if I were to every use this Primochill tubing. If anyone has any other questions please ask and Ill be sure to answer. Also if anyone wants more pictures or test as well please just let me know.


In the pictures it kind of looks like the durelene tubing has more of a soft texture where as the primochill appears to be more sharp and slightly more clear, would you agree with this?
Also is there any chance of seeing some comparison photos when the tubing has coolant running through it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellis142*
> 
> It doesn't hurt, but it doesn't help, and you don't need a bridge to enable PhysX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't it funny how the 560 is smaller, yet faster? I love technology.


Yup, qft.

Looks good using a bridge though


----------



## superericla

Anyone with a 7970 or 7950 may be interested in this 25% off XSPC water block.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Anyone with a 7970 or 7950 may be interested in this 25% off XSPC water block.


Man... I was just going to go with the EK block I had gotten in the trade but it'll be tough to track down two more... My OCD is telling me to buy 4 of these


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bombadil411*
> 
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first water cooled system and I'm still running into some problems, but after looking at the temps it's getting me I see no reason to go back.


Wow I would have thought you were not new to building a water cooled computer, nice job!










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itoxiczzhd*
> 
> In the pictures it kind of looks like the durelene tubing has more of a soft texture where as the primochill appears to be more sharp and slightly more clear, would you agree with this?
> Also is there any chance of seeing some comparison photos when the tubing has coolant running through it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Durelene on the left, Durelene on the right


How can you tell which tubing is which? Somebody has Durelene on the brain!


----------



## SimpleTech

Was about to order a new pump as I loathed using a reducer (3/8" → 1/2") for the outlet port. So I improvised and sawed the 3/8" portion off using my Dremel. Then applied some epoxy to seal it together.


----------



## joejoe69

Here's my contribution to the Corsair 500R and 3770K builders, enjoy!!

































































Ivy Bridge 3770K @ 4.8GHz / 1.36V









GPU temps during MOH: Warfighter on max settings


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Here's my contribution to the Corsair 500R and 3770K builders, enjoy!!


Nice, very clean. You should fill out your system specs so they show up with your posts.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Man... I was just going to go with the EK block I had gotten in the trade but it'll be tough to track down two more... My OCD is telling me to buy 4 of these


It would be quite a bit cheaper than 4 of the EK blocks. I only found this deal because I was looking for a 7970 water block.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Was about to order a new pump as I loathed using a reducer (3/8" → 1/2") for the outlet port. So I improvised and sawed the 3/8" portion off using my Dremel. Then applied some epoxy to seal it together.


That what I love seeing, some one with a problem, then an answer.

Looks blooming great


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Here's my contribution to the Corsair 500R and 3770K builders, enjoy!!


Very sweet looking rig.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Was about to order a new pump as I loathed using a reducer (3/8" → 1/2") for the outlet port. So I improvised and sawed the 3/8" portion off using my Dremel. Then applied some epoxy to seal it together.


it's nice to see i'm not the only one that uses these chinese made pumps.. for the price they do the job well







....i had to do the same thing you did their to use it with 1/2 tubing


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Man... I was just going to go with the EK block I had gotten in the trade but it'll be tough to track down two more... My OCD is telling me to buy 4 of these


those things are super rare. you can hook up some D-plugs to the xspc blocks


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That what I love seeing, some one with a problem, then an answer.
> Looks blooming great


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> it's nice to see i'm not the only one that uses these chinese made pumps.. for the price they do the job well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....i had to do the same thing you did their to use it with 1/2 tubing


Thanks guys. Going to let it dry overnight and test it in the morning. I got a great deal on a CPU block & 240mm rad in the for sale section so I figured I'd dust this pump off and give it a whirl.

@jamaican voodoo, I saw the video you made earlier with a similar pump. I take it is still kicking after all these months?


----------



## kyismaster

Ok, so how does it look guys? for my first loop and rig lol.

Im so tired. i'll turn it on in a bit. though heres a first look


----------



## _TRU_

ok. i think this should be all i need. except for the tubing & barbs.


Spoiler: WC List & Pics





pic of the loop


http://XSPC RayStorm CPU Water Block (Intel) w/ LED]with this CPU block[/URL]



what you all think?
also can i get some recommendations for barbs & tubing?


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Anyone with a 7970 or 7950 may be interested in this 25% off XSPC water block.


Sooo tempting...


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Thanks guys. Going to let it dry overnight and test it in the morning. I got a great deal on a CPU block & 240mm rad in the for sale section so I figured I'd dust this pump off and give it a whirl.
> @jamaican voodoo, I saw the video you made earlier with a similar pump. I take it is still kicking after all these months?


yep still kicking even though its running full bore @ 24V 27/7 i haven't had no issues yet.. a good little pump i say


----------



## jokrik

Update my rig and took a couple of shots







added another 670 and the bridge









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














More Pictures on my album HERE


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Here's my contribution to the Corsair 500R and 3770K builders, enjoy!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


One of the best looking & performing builds I have seem in 2012. Great work!


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ok. i think this should be all i need. except for the tubing & barbs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: WC List & Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pic of the loop
> 
> http://XSPC RayStorm CPU Water Block (Intel) w/ LED]with this CPU block[/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> what you all think?
> 
> 
> also can i get some recommendations for barbs & tubing?


Because of so much plasticizer issues, esp with the Primochill Pro lrt tubing, lotta people are going with Durelene - clear tubing that doesn't kink easy.

Barbs ? I like fittings, someone else here can have a say bout barbs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Update my rig and took a couple of shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> added another 670 and the bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pictures on my album HERE


Say bud - you really otta do yourself a favor and show AT LEAST ONE PIC !!! great job


----------



## BeardedJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magoo approves this post!


Ha... thats what my uncle calls his girlfriend for some strange reason lol


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Because of so much plasticizer issues, esp with the Primochill Pro lrt tubing, lotta people are going with Durelene - clear tubing that doesn't kink easy.
> Barbs ? I like fittings, someone else here can have a say bout barbs.


well i'd be completely new to it. so taking in all info. read up on Durelene. Looks pretty good, & its $.45/ft to boot. so last thing i'll need is fittings?


----------



## charleybwoy

Some cool picture i took tonight. I initially wanted to shoot the RAM but i think these photo also suit this thread!.
Im getting better with my cam










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Rampage IV Extreme


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charleybwoy*
> 
> Some cool picture i took tonight. I initially wanted to shoot the RAM but i think these photo also suit this thread!.
> Im getting better with my cam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rampage IV Extreme


i cant wait to get my shiny rams in...cmon Eggs get with it already!! how are they if you try to oc them a bit?


----------



## charleybwoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> i cant wait to get my shiny rams in...cmon Eggs get with it already!! how are they if you try to oc them a bit?


Didnt try with 32gb. I have another kit of them, a 1600 kit 8gb dual channel and i easily got 2133
I should try to oc this kit!


----------



## FlashGordon

PCcase 　 : Strike-X Air
CPU　　 : i7 3930K C2
VGA : WinFast GTX680 2GB GDDR5 X2
Motherboard : Asus Rampage Ⅳ　Extreme
ATX Power Supply　: SilverStone STRIDER PLUS GOLD 1200W SST-ST1200-G
SSD : ADATA S511 120GB HDD: WDC 1T
Memory : CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 16GBKIT CL9-11-10 XMP1.3

Wtaer Cooling System as follows
Pump　 : Dual D5
Reservoir : Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250
Courante : aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra 1L - red
CPU Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-Supreme LTX - EN (Nickel)
VGA Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-FC680 GTX - Nickel CSQX2
Chipset Waterblock: EK WaterBlocks EK-FB KIT RE4 - Nickel CSQ
Memory Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-RAM Dominator X4 - Nickel CSQ X2
Water Tube : PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing -1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD
Radiator1 : Black Ice SR1 240 CoolingLab Edition
Radiator2 : Black Ice GT Stealth 360

this modding was basicaly originated by X-ZONE Lazu.
I arranged some parts of case like front panel etc,,
tks X-ZONE Lazu for this strike-x air modding


----------



## derickwm

I think I'll be the first to say... that's beautiful, moar pictures!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Update my rig and took a couple of shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> added another 670 and the bridge
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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> 
> More Pictures on my album HERE


I'm really liking that....good job.









*Almost* finished with my final revision in the S810....going out of town for the week, so just wanted to get it up and running for some testing. Once I get home I'll wrap it up, major thing is getting the sleeving done.

Playing with the lighting

Broke 1400MHz


----------



## InsideJob

FlashGordon you acutally made the StrikeX Air look good







Props!


----------



## NewHighScore

Lovin your Rad PCModder Mike! And wow 1411! dayum.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I'm really liking that....good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Almost* finished with my final revision in the S810....going out of town for the week, so just wanted to get it up and running for some testing. Once I get home I'll wrap it up, major thing is getting the sleeving done.


Thanks!!
That is such a clean build you have there, did you paint your rad yourself?
Do you use special paint since i've heard paint would effect on the heat distribution of rad


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> Playing with the lighting






NOM NOM lightning








Awesome build


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

So I had some free time this weekend to do some more mods on my build. I decided to try installing RGB strips in the cooling system, and have them react to the thermal load on the system. The Aquaero 5 has a RGB LED controller, but each channel is limited to 20mA of current, and hooking up the strips directly to the AE5 would either fry the driving circuitry, or just simply not work. So I found a couple N-Channel MOSFETs on an old Nvidia card rated for 12.5A of continuous current, that the 5v signal the AE5's LED controller could control.

The bottom:










Getting the strips taped down and secured. All I had was duct tape, so don't hate.










Started to rework the setup for all the hoses that connect everything up:










All the new tubes cut and hooked up


























This is the result:






As you can see, the system starts off a cool blue, indicating the heat output is low. Once it starts to warm up, it fades to a dark orange, indicating a high thermal load. When the cooling system turns on, the system fades back to the cool blue color, and the cycle repeats.


----------



## InsideJob

I see a 0:00 long video







QUICK FIX IT


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Lovin your Rad PCModder Mike! And wow 1411! dayum.


Thanks! I'll be trying to go higher once I have time.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Thanks!!
> That is such a clean build you have there, did you paint your rad yourself?
> Do you use special paint since i've heard paint would effect on the heat distribution of rad


Thank you, yes I did paint the rad myself....This is the paint I use. I only use it because it goes on real easy, nothing about it being an engine paint really matters. Where did you hear about this heat distribution issue? Maybe if the fins were painted there could be some adverse effects. But as is, I've used this paint on many different rads in many different configurations, and have not noticed any ill effects.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> NOM NOM lightning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome build


Thank you!


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I see a 0:00 long video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QUICK FIX IT


Feexid


----------



## InsideJob

I watch now








....
Gosh I love watching videos of that system in action. Awesome idea and outcome with the LED's








Seems a bit loud while running, not the water but background pump noise or something. How loud is that in the same room not translated through digital frequencies? I like fountains and such so the water noise would be rather pleasant. Thanks for the update InitialDrive


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Update my rig and took a couple of shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> added another 670 and the bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pictures on my album HERE


Amazing Rig, attention to detail is great.


----------



## d3spis3m3

*AMD A8-3870K* @ 1.5125 volts 36x x 100fsb @ 3.6GHz
*Corsair H60 2013 Edition* Push Pull 77F ambient 29c Idle and 52c Full load @ 30 Minutes
16GB *Gskill RipJaws* 4x4 ddr-3 1600
*ASRock* A55 Pro 3

And dont forget the terrible wire management


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3spis3m3*
> 
> *AMD A8-3870K* @ 1.5125 volts 36x x 100fsb @ 3.6GHz
> *Corsair H60 2013 Edition* Push Pull 77F ambient 29c Idle and 52c Full load @ 30 Minutes
> 16GB *Gskill RipJaws* 4x4 ddr-3 1600
> *ASRock* A55 Pro 3
> And dont forget the terrible wire management


Is that correct, 1.5V for 3.6GHz? That seems insanely high.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I watch now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> Gosh I love watching videos of that system in action. Awesome idea and outcome with the LED's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems a bit loud while running, not the water but background pump noise or something. How loud is that in the same room not translated through digital frequencies? I like fountains and such so the water noise would be rather pleasant. Thanks for the update InitialDrive


I actually have an industrial fan hanging my window. So that's why there is terrible background noise. I'll remember to turn it off before I record a video again







The water noise is all you hear when it's running full load, as the fans are all silent. The evaporative coolers don't need high air flow which is why I don't have the exhaust 120mm Nidec plugged in. It's just simply not necessary.


----------



## kyismaster

heres a day time shot, and i'll take a night time shot later


----------



## RKTGX95

are there any loops with black tubing and red anti kink coils out there? (can't find those anywhere)

(also, is putting a 3.5' fan controller in a HDD cage a viable option?)


----------



## derickwm

Ky are you putting in a GPU?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ky are you putting in a GPU?


yes after my leak testing is over


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> are there any loops with black tubing and red anti kink coils out there? (can't find those anywhere)
> (also, is putting a 3.5' fan controller in a HDD cage a viable option?)


Of course it is! When my kid was around two years old he was curious and loved to touch things. BAD news for a fan controller so what I did was just reverse it in the big bays so the dials were inside and put a face plate on the front. Problem solved. Recessed controller so no little fingers can turn my fans off. It's not like I messed with the fan speed often so opening the case door once in a while was not a problem. Same thing works with the HDD bay and would be even easier to do since most are sideways and give you better wiring access from the back.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Of course it is! When my kid was around two years old he was curious and loved to touch things. BAD news for a fan controller so what I did was just reverse it in the big bays so the dials were inside and put a face plate on the front. Problem solved. Recessed controller so no little fingers can turn my fans off. It's not like I messed with the fan speed often so opening the case door once in a while was not a problem. Same thing works with the HDD bay and would be even easier to do since most are sideways and give you better wiring access from the back.


finally, lack of free 5.25 bays =/= no fan controllers









any idea on those back tubing and red coils loops?

(also, how recommended are the Bitfenix spectre pro 120 and 140 led fans by the WC community as case and/or case fan?)


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> finally, lack of free 5.25 bays =/= no fan controllers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any idea on those back tubing and red coils loops?
> (also, how recommended are the Bitfenix spectre pro 120 and 140 led fans by the WC community as case and/or case fan?)


No way that I could ever go through this thread in a timely fashion and point you to the photos but yes I have seen what you are looking for and it does in fact look awesome. There have been several builds that have used black tubing and red coil loops along with other red accessories that really made their cases pop.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> No way that I could ever go through this thread in a timely fashion and point you to the photos but yes I have seen what you are looking for and it does in fact look awesome. There have been several builds that have used black tubing and red coil loops along with other red accessories that really made their cases pop.


yeah, i thought of how well it would look and amazing yet couldn't find any








what is the usual lighting on those loops? (white, red, UV...)


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> yeah, i thought of how well it would look and amazing yet couldn't find any
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what is the usual lighting on those loops? (white, red, UV...)


Many different combos. Red fans, red lights etc.


----------



## Fonne

*EK introduces EK-RAM Dominator Module*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/287/19/EK-introduces-EK-RAM-Dominator-Module/



*EK to release a new motherboard water block*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/286/19/EK-to-release-a-new-motherboard-water-block/
Quote:


> The upcoming EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z for ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z motherboard will be a single piece Full-Board water block which will directly cool AMD 990FX northbridge and the power regulation (VRM / MOSFETs) module.


Quote:


> Furthermore this new water block will be compatible with the original version of ASUS Crosshair V Formula motherboard and will as such replace the existing EK-FB ASUS Crosshair V lineup.


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Hello all!!!
Here's my watercooled beast!!!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that correct, 1.5V for 3.6GHz? That seems insanely high.


I have the same CPU in my parents rig and it overclocks about the same. I left theirs at 3.4GHz with stock voltage (1.44v) as it got pretty hot past that with a Cooler Master TX3.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashGordon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PCcase 　 : Strike-X Air
> CPU　　 : i7 3930K C2
> VGA : WinFast GTX680 2GB GDDR5 X2
> Motherboard : Asus Rampage Ⅳ　Extreme
> ATX Power Supply　: SilverStone STRIDER PLUS GOLD 1200W SST-ST1200-G
> SSD : ADATA S511 120GB HDD: WDC 1T
> Memory : CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 16GBKIT CL9-11-10 XMP1.3
> Wtaer Cooling System as follows
> Pump　 : Dual D5
> Reservoir : Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250
> Courante : aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra 1L - red
> CPU Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-Supreme LTX - EN (Nickel)
> VGA Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-FC680 GTX - Nickel CSQX2
> Chipset Waterblock: EK WaterBlocks EK-FB KIT RE4 - Nickel CSQ
> Memory Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-RAM Dominator X4 - Nickel CSQ X2
> Water Tube : PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing -1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD
> Radiator1 : Black Ice SR1 240 CoolingLab Edition
> Radiator2 : Black Ice GT Stealth 360
> this modding was basicaly originated by X-ZONE Lazu.
> I arranged some parts of case like front panel etc,,
> tks X-ZONE Lazu for this strike-x air modding


That is one dead sexy case.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Of course it is! When my kid was around two years old he was curious and loved to touch things. BAD news for a fan controller so what I did was just reverse it in the big bays so the dials were inside and put a face plate on the front. Problem solved. Recessed controller so no little fingers can turn my fans off. It's not like I messed with the fan speed often so opening the case door once in a while was not a problem. Same thing works with the HDD bay and would be even easier to do since most are sideways and give you better wiring access from the back.


Did the same thing with an internal USB hub.. just flipped it around to run my interior LED's! Pop a 5.25 bay cover on and it's hidden!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashGordon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PCcase 　 : Strike-X Air
> CPU　　 : i7 3930K C2
> VGA : WinFast GTX680 2GB GDDR5 X2
> Motherboard : Asus Rampage Ⅳ　Extreme
> ATX Power Supply　: SilverStone STRIDER PLUS GOLD 1200W SST-ST1200-G
> SSD : ADATA S511 120GB HDD: WDC 1T
> Memory : CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 16GBKIT CL9-11-10 XMP1.3
> Wtaer Cooling System as follows
> Pump　 : Dual D5
> Reservoir : Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250
> Courante : aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra 1L - red
> CPU Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-Supreme LTX - EN (Nickel)
> VGA Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-FC680 GTX - Nickel CSQX2
> Chipset Waterblock: EK WaterBlocks EK-FB KIT RE4 - Nickel CSQ
> Memory Waterblock : EK WaterBlocks EK-RAM Dominator X4 - Nickel CSQ X2
> Water Tube : PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing -1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD
> Radiator1 : Black Ice SR1 240 CoolingLab Edition
> Radiator2 : Black Ice GT Stealth 360
> this modding was basicaly originated by X-ZONE Lazu.
> I arranged some parts of case like front panel etc,,
> tks X-ZONE Lazu for this strike-x air modding


This is quite possibly the most drop dead gorgeous hybrid station build I have ever seen, now I'm going to insert my finger into the wall socket to be sure that I'm not dreaming!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Amazing Rig, attention to detail is great.


Thanks! small thing does matter








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> 
> Hello all!!!
> Here's my watercooled beast!!!


Love the loop, very sleek and simple


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all!!!
> Here's my watercooled beast!!!


The good looking EK blocks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Surgery performed and parts stacked up for prep.

Magoo is making pointed reminders about dinner in the background....










And i didnt even have to get a hammer out once!


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp*
> 
> Nice, very clean. You should fill out your system specs so they show up with your posts.


Thanks!! I just filled it out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Very sweet looking rig.


Thanks!!


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> So I had some free time this weekend to do some more mods on my build. I decided to try installing RGB strips in the cooling system, and have them react to the thermal load on the system. The Aquaero 5 has a RGB LED controller, but each channel is limited to 20mA of current, and hooking up the strips directly to the AE5 would either fry the driving circuitry, or just simply not work. So I found a couple N-Channel MOSFETs on an old Nvidia card rated for 12.5A of continuous current, that the 5v signal the AE5's LED controller could control.
> The bottom:
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG]http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k359/InitialDriveGTR/012-7.jpg[/IMG]
> 
> 
> Getting the strips taped down and secured. All I had was duct tape, so don't hate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started to rework the setup for all the hoses that connect everything up:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the new tubes cut and hooked up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the result:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the system starts off a cool blue, indicating the heat output is low. Once it starts to warm up, it fades to a dark orange, indicating a high thermal load. When the cooling system turns on, the system fades back to the cool blue color, and the cycle repeats.


love what you did with the Azza 9000..








nice colour changing mod..was thinking of doing that
also but mine sounds ghetto compared to yours lol
i was just going to hook up ONE OF THESE
somehow to my loop..possiblly shining through/into a piece of laser
etched plexi glass. but great job


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Surgery performed and parts stacked up for prep.
> 
> Magoo is making pointed reminders about dinner in the background....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i didnt even have to get a hammer out once!


Wish Cosmos II weren't so expensive but it's to be expected given that it's directly competing with Silverstone TJ07 cases. Would love to start my next build in that case or if the next 932 is as large that would be a reasonable alternative. Keeping the AMD build in the 932 mod which needs to be completed but at least most of the Cooling system is together and running.








I suffer from wantitus

And lack of cash syndrome.

Am folding for the cure though.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

^^^The CM store has them refurb for $199









@ B Negative: any plans for a window mod? The Cosmos II needs one imho.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^The CM store has them refurb for $199
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ B Negative: any plans for a window mod? The Cosmos II needs one imho.


Oh yes Wermad,its having a big window,im planning how to do the door as we speak.
The doors are not just panels,they are about 15mm thick with filters and stuff built in,im trying think of a way that preserves their function.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wish Cosmos II weren't so expensive but it's to be expected given that it's directly competing with Silverstone TJ07 cases.
> ~Ceadder


The TJ07 doesn't compete with the Cosmos II. Or any other case. Period.
There is no competition.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Oh yes Wermad,its having a big window,im planning how to do the door as we speak.
> The doors are not just panels,they are about 15mm thick with filters and stuff built in,im trying think of a way that preserves their function.


Bob808's build should have some inspiration/ideas









http://www.overclock.net/t/1212455/mkg-cosmos-ii-case-mod

Quote:


>


----------



## Rickles

Sorry for the crappy picture (cell phone while holding a baby) but how about some *Tis The Season* Lighting??


----------



## handi420

Just need to get my white psu cables and i'll be done... until i drain it then its getting more goodies!

w/ side pannel


Top of the case with the shroud removed.


Side


Another side Shot


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> The TJ07 doesn't compete with the Cosmos II. Or any other case. Period.
> There is no competition.


CaseLabs beats it with most of their cases imo.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> The TJ07 doesn't compete with the Cosmos II. Or any other case. Period.
> There is no competition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CaseLabs beats it with most of their cases imo.
Click to expand...

I know. I was just trying to get Ceadder going
I've had so many cases over the years, and they all have their good points. The Cosmos II tha B Neg is doing is going to be an awesome build, just from looking at his build log.
The TJ07 I bought, which isn't finished yet, is going to be a ton of work to get it to my liking, and so many cases out there now have far better options for rads, cable management, etc.
But that's the case I've wanted for a long time, and I'll enjoy toiling on it in a masochistic kind of way


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> So I had some free time this weekend to do some more mods on my build. I decided to try installing RGB strips in the cooling system, and have them react to the thermal load on the system. The Aquaero 5 has a RGB LED controller, but each channel is limited to 20mA of current, and hooking up the strips directly to the AE5 would either fry the driving circuitry, or just simply not work. So I found a couple N-Channel MOSFETs on an old Nvidia card rated for 12.5A of continuous current, that the 5v signal the AE5's LED controller could control.
> The bottom:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting the strips taped down and secured. All I had was duct tape, so don't hate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started to rework the setup for all the hoses that connect everything up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the new tubes cut and hooked up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the result:
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the system starts off a cool blue, indicating the heat output is low. Once it starts to warm up, it fades to a dark orange, indicating a high thermal load. When the cooling system turns on, the system fades back to the cool blue color, and the cycle repeats.


I'd love to know more about how it works, but in any case, either because of the rain or the leds, you are A GENIUS!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> CaseLabs beats it with most of their cases imo.


Not in aesthetics. The Cosmos II is one of the prettiest cases made IMO....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not in aesthetics. The Cosmos II is one of the prettiest cases made IMO....


It just needs that window to make it so good!

Its an impressive case. Had I not needed some huge rads, I would have gone with that.

Still, CM and the HAF XB have my attention right now


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I almost built this instead of my sig rig:



If the Cosmos II had had a windowed side panel, I would have saved myself around $300 on the TJ11...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I almost built this instead of my sig rig:
> 
> If the Cosmos II had had a windowed side panel, I would have saved myself around $300 on the TJ11...


I hear yah. I asked CM if they had plans. They sent me a log winded explanation of the case's design and how it would not go w/ a window. A simple no would have suffice. Anyways, it has been done so it shouldn't be much trouble for a seasoned modder.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

So I am faced with another dilema. Should I ditch the 180MM radiator I have an get an Alphacool UT60? I already have a Black Ice Stealth 240MM radiator. I haven't gotten anything under water yet so I don't know temps. Going with 4x120MM radiators is less space than 1x180MM and 2x120MM. However, will the thickness of the UT60 make up for the loss of area?

Will be cooling two 7970s with little overclock and an i7 3820 with a modest overclock.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I just did a small calculation on how much i spend to cool 1 CPU and 2 GPUs. I never really noticed because it was bought in parts. Just the parts installed excluding extras ~ $750. Thats MAD.


----------



## wsjackson5

I re-configured my loop: (Sorry, don't have a good camera)

Before:


After:



I still haven't figured out exactly how I want to mount the radiator shroud, I looked at the matching radiator box from Koolance, but I kind of want to do something custom with black plexi.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> So I am faced with another dilema. Should I ditch the 180MM radiator I have an get an Alphacool UT60? I already have a Black Ice Stealth 240MM radiator. I haven't gotten anything under water yet so I don't know temps. Going with 4x120MM radiators is less space than 1x180MM and 2x120MM. However, will the thickness of the UT60 make up for the loss of area?
> Will be cooling two 7970s with little overclock and an i7 3820 with a modest overclock.
> Jeffinslaw


lga2011 is a tad of a heat monster. A ut60 480mm should be good enough for you planned loop. It'll make up with a better and thicker design.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I just did a small calculation on how much i spend to cool 1 CPU and 2 GPUs. I never really noticed because it was bought in parts. Just the parts installed excluding extras ~ $750. Thats MAD.


That's if you have no issue with dropping a lot on higher end parts. If you go budget, you can get something ~$350-500. You can also look used as they will surely be much cheaper. Also, DD stuff is hitting ebay. Good time to pick up some of the stuff those lucky enough to buy in the firesale. I got a cpu block bnib for $45. ~$15 than what it was going for in the fire sale but better than ~$85 new at the shops.

My suggestion, look for used but in great shape parts








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wsjackson5*
> 
> I re-configured my loop: (Sorry, don't have a good camera)
> Before:
> 
> After
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still haven't figured out exactly how I want to mount the radiator shroud, I looked at the matching radiator box from Koolance, but I kind of want to do something custom with black plexi.


I love those Koolance shrouds. Do you have your rad inside the case or outside? If you have outside, get some acrylic and fashion a small skirt to blend in the shroud to your case.

Nice LanBoy build btw


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lga2011 is a tad of a heat monster. A ut60 480mm should be good enough for you planned loop. It'll make up with a better and thicker design.


You must not be following my build log, shame on you







I don't have room for a full 480MM UT60. I was wondering if a 2x120MM UT60 and the 2x120MM Black Ice GT Stealth would be better than 1x180MM Magicool and the 2x120MM Black Ice GT Stealth.

Jeffinslaw

*EDIT* I think I'm going to go with a 2x140MM UT60 and the Black Ice I have now. Just doing the math:

1x180MM + 2x120MM = 61,200MM^2

2x120MM + 2x120MM = 57,200MM^2

2x120MM + 2x140MM = 68,000MM^2

The third option would give me the most surface area.

A 280MM radiator wouldn't fit....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You must not be following my build log, shame on you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have room for a full 480MM UT60. I was wondering if a 2x120MM UT60 and the 2x120MM Black Ice GT Stealth would be better than 1x180MM Magicool and the 2x120MM Black Ice GT Stealth.
> Jeffinslaw


The 240mm ut60 should be better than the 180mm one (Phobya or Magicool btw?). Paired with your BI Stealth 240mm, you should be good to cool your loop. If you can, look for some used thick rads like the RX240, SR1 240, GTX 240, etc. in place of the Stealth 240mm (and to keep the costs down, maybe two instead of the BI and the UT60, ?







).

Sorry, I'll head over there right now to check out your build









edit: I think I lost your subscription. I do remember it now,


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lga2011 is a tad of a heat monster. A ut60 480mm should be good enough for you planned loop. It'll make up with a better and thicker design.
> 
> 
> 
> You must not be following my build log, shame on you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have room for a full 480MM UT60. I was wondering if a 2x120MM UT60 and the 2x120MM Black Ice GT Stealth would be better than 1x180MM Magicool and the 2x120MM Black Ice GT Stealth.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> *EDIT* I think I'm going to go with a 2x140MM UT60 and the Black Ice I have now. Just doing the math:
> 
> 1x180MM + 2x120MM = 61,200MM^2
> 
> 2x120MM + 2x120MM = 57,200MM^2
> 
> 2x120MM + 2x140MM = 68,000MM^2
> 
> The third option would give me the most surface area.
Click to expand...

Would love to have that 180. Gonna be removing the HDD cage once I get back from Kansas. A 180 would fit perfectly mounted to my 200 up front. But that's quite a ways away. Gonna be wintering there.









~Ceadder


----------



## 316320

How do you get rid of air bubbles when you don't have clear tubing? Do you have to watch the reservoir and see if there is any bubbles showing there?


----------



## SimpleTech

^^ Shake your case or radiator about. It will help dislodge any trapped air pockets.

I use *this method* when filling up my loop.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The 240mm ut60 should be better than the 180mm one (Phobya or Magicool btw?). Paired with your BI Stealth 240mm, you should be good to cool your loop. If you can, look for some used thick rads like the RX240, SR1 240, GTX 240, etc. in place of the Stealth 240mm (and to keep the costs down, maybe two instead of the BI and the UT60, ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> Sorry, I'll head over there right now to check out your build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I think I lost your subscription. I do remember it now,


I just did some quick measurements and I don't think it'll be possible to throw a bigger rad up top than what I already have (Stealth 240MM). I will for sure look at a bigger rad for the front. God, it if wasn't for the look of the G5 case, there is no way I would have gone this route with watercooling haha.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would love to have that 180. Gonna be removing the HDD cage once I get back from Kansas. A 180 would fit perfectly mounted to my 200 up front. But that's quite a ways away. Gonna be wintering there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well then keep an eye out in the future, you could possibly get a good deal on a 180MM radiator!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would love to have that 180. Gonna be removing the HDD cage once I get back from Kansas. A 180 would fit perfectly mounted to my 200 up front. But that's quite a ways away. Gonna be wintering there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well then keep an eye out in the future, you could possibly get a good deal on a 180MM radiator!
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Kewl kewl. I'll be on OCN still, just not as much as I am right now.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> How do you get rid of air bubbles when you don't have clear tubing? Do you have to watch the reservoir and see if there is any bubbles showing there?


If you have a dedicated fillport you can leave it uncapped and the bubbles will work their way out without much of a hassle. I leave mine open and the bubbles always work themselves out.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> How do you get rid of air bubbles when you don't have clear tubing? Do you have to watch the reservoir and see if there is any bubbles showing there?


Give it time. Normally takes several hours to fully bleed a system.


----------



## Blatsz32

Hello all, new to water cooling and was hoping that you guys could help me confirm that this block http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=35554:a05040498059889153edd39b610c8573 will be fine for my GTX670FTW. My understanding is that the card uses a 680 PCB but I just want to make sur ewith the OCN WC experts that I am correct and this block is a go. Thank you for your help.

I would also like to ask about my loop but once I am certain this block is a go I'll ask the question.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Hello all, new to water cooling and was hoping that you guys could help me confirm that this block http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=35554:a05040498059889153edd39b610c8573 will be fine for my GTX670FTW. My understanding is that the card uses a 680 PCB but I just want to make sur ewith the OCN WC experts that I am correct and this block is a go. Thank you for your help.
> I would also like to ask about my loop but once I am certain this block is a go I'll ask the question.


It'll work.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> How do you get rid of air bubbles when you don't have clear tubing? Do you have to watch the reservoir and see if there is any bubbles showing there?


Another great technique is to tilt your case at a 45 degree angle and rotating it 360 degrees in a circular motion. There's also the quick shake rattle & roll.


----------



## iShox

Hey guys. I've ordered the rest of the parts for my build and I'm thinking about whether or not I need my 120mm rad (40mm thick). I'll be running a 30mm 240 with one bank of fans at the top of my 600t and a 64mm 240 with push/pull in the front. It'll be cooling a 3570k and a 6990. I'd like not to use the 120 as it makes things messier. How much of a performance gain will I get if I keep the 120? Anything under 4 degrees probably wont be worth my while.

Its not like I'm waiting my money using it, I got it for free lol.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> How do you get rid of air bubbles when you don't have clear tubing? Do you have to watch the reservoir and see if there is any bubbles showing there?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> ^^ Shake your case or radiator about. It will help dislodge any trapped air pockets.
> I use *this method* when filling up my loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Give it time. Normally takes several hours to fully bleed a system.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Another great technique is to tilt your case at a 45 degree angle and rotating it 360 degrees in a circular motion. There's also the quick shake rattle & roll.


All workable ideas, for those strong enough to manhandle a heavy PC.

For those of us of a more delicate nature, advanced years, and back injuries that can make a box of kleenex seem heavy, . . . There's always my "Diva Deluxe", Air powered filling assistant.

Using low pressure air, about 3 psi works fine, allows me to fill from the bottom up thru the drain line while the vent at the highest point allows the air to escape as the system fills.

Valves for the air and water flow allow me to fill as slow as I need to, or stop momentarily while levels equalize.

I've been using this method for a good while now, and never needed more than a little tip, side to side, to dislodge the last little bits of trapped air.

Darlene



And when I'm done with a fill, just pack it up for the next time:



Here it is connected to the drain valve on my Switch810 build, and a pic of the vent lines at the top in place for filling / bleeding:







Here you can see that my external cooling module has been designed to use my filler with a drain line valve at the bottom (rear) of the rad and a vent valve at the top rad connection. The valve is on rotaries, so it can be rotated up when in use as a vent, and then rotaded down and out of the way for everyday operation.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I just did a small calculation on how much i spend to cool 1 CPU and 2 GPUs. I never really noticed because it was bought in parts. Just the parts installed excluding extras ~ $750. Thats MAD.


I would hate to calculate my cooling cost, since to be able to WC both my GPU's I needed a new case (OK I did found a temp case costing $0) but still lots.

It is the cost of performance I guess


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> All workable ideas, for those strong enough to manhandle a heavy PC.
> For those of us of a more delicate nature, advanced years, and back injuries that can make a box of kleenex seem heavy, . . . There's always my "Diva Deluxe", Air powered filling assistant.
> Using low pressure air, about 3 psi works fine, allows me to fill from the bottom up thru the drain line while the vent at the highest point allows the air to escape as the system fills.
> Valves for the air and water flow allow me to fill as slow as I need to, or stop momentarily while levels equalize.
> I've been using this method for a good while now, and never needed more than a little tip, side to side, to dislodge the last little bits of trapped air.
> Darlene
> 
> And when I'm done with a fill, just pack it up for the next time:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see that my external cooling module has been designed to use my filler with a drain line valve at the bottom (rear) of the rad and a vent valve at the top rad connection. The valve is on rotaries, so it can be rotated up when in use as a vent, and then rotaded down and out of the way for everyday operation.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I do a similar thing with an old Jingway 800,also good for flushing the loop without flushing stuff into your res if you disconnect it and run it on the In /out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I just did a small calculation on how much i spend to cool 1 CPU and 2 GPUs. I never really noticed because it was bought in parts. Just the parts installed excluding extras ~ $750. Thats MAD.


I know how you feel....£1200 on my SR-2 loop and i dont even have an aquaero or bitspower fittings......


----------



## FlashGordon

tks a lot !!


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Alfaa

Retook some pictures last night. I think I got some worthy for the "large" setting when you upload pictures













Here is the full Imgur gallery if you like what you see


----------



## morencyam

I love that white PCB on the gpu. It really adds that clean look to the rest of the build. Great work in such a small space.


----------



## NewHighScore

Agreed. That white pcb is sexy.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Yeesh!
Four 7970 blocks for less than I paid for two 7950 blocks!


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Yeesh!
> Four 7970 blocks for less than I paid for two 7950 blocks!


Yeah for sure. If you don't jump on that deal let me know.


----------



## kyismaster

^.^;; does anyone know how to take off monsoon fittings off of some tubing?


----------



## derickwm

Lol I already bought it. That's an order confirmation email









They're still available at PPCs though


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> ^.^;; does anyone know how to take off monsoon fittings off of some tubing?


I mutilated the threads on 2 of mine with a wrench, they really need a notch in the bottom. The other thing that would work, I don't know if they exist, would be something that is reverse threaded for the g1/4.

perhaps putting some duct tape over the wrench would reduce marring the threads.

You could notch the bottom yourself, but going forward I only hand tighten my monsoons now.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I mutilated the threads on 2 of mine with a wrench, they really need a notch in the bottom. The other thing that would work, I don't know if they exist, would be something that is reverse threaded for the g1/4.
> perhaps putting some duct tape over the wrench would reduce marring the threads.
> You could notch the bottom yourself, but going forward I only hand tighten my monsoons now.


I call them "permafittings lol

luckily my sponsorship with monsoon, gave me 3 extra fittings


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EK introduces EK-RAM Dominator Module*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/287/19/EK-introduces-EK-RAM-Dominator-Module/
> 
> *EK to release a new motherboard water block*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/286/19/EK-to-release-a-new-motherboard-water-block/


Hey Ceader this should make you happy, if you have not had a look do so, its what you are looking for.

It might also work with the non CSQ blocks that you love so much









(i'm not 100% sure,so one of our more learned forum members will have to enlighten you on that)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EK introduces EK-RAM Dominator Module*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/287/19/EK-introduces-EK-RAM-Dominator-Module/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EK to release a new motherboard water block*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/286/19/EK-to-release-a-new-motherboard-water-block/
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Ceader this should make you happy, if you have not had a look do so, its what you are looking for.
> 
> It might also work with the non CSQ blocks that you love so much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i'm 100% not sure,so one of our more learned forum members will have to enlighten you on that)
Click to expand...

My Dominators don't need to have their heatsinks replaced All Dominator blocks work with them. I'm looking for the non CSQ blocks an unfortunately EK hasn't got any new tops for the CSQ blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HulkMode*
> 
> Here is a little preview of my new build, still need to come up with a name.
> Getting a Devil13 7990 shipped in next week so this will finish this puppy off.
> Any suggestions are more than welcome.


Did you considered the apogee drive? The one with pump on block?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If I can ever find another EK nickel-plexi 7970 block in the old style I will get another 7970 for my rig. Otherwise I'll probably make the move to Kepler with the 680 Lightnings and crop circles...


----------



## Rickles

This xspc block and this 7970 and I could get another for under $400, I don't think my wife would be too happy though...

edit1: incompatible good catch Insidejob

edit2: skip this

edit3: /facedesk that was a 7950


----------



## InsideJob

That block is for reference cards, and unless I'm wrong that isn't a reference card


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


How do these compare to EK blocks? I have only used EK in the past, but these may be cheap enough to get me back into WC.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> That block is for reference cards, and unless I'm wrong that isn't a reference card


Yea, I guess they revised there pcb.


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> How do these compare to EK blocks? I have only used EK in the past, but these may be cheap enough to get me back into WC.


And it looks like they are gone


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> How do these compare to EK blocks? I have only used EK in the past, but these may be cheap enough to get me back into WC.


It seems to run the hottest of all the blocks and the water doesn't flow over the VRM area.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup/10#post_17662352


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> ^.^;; does anyone know how to take off monsoon fittings off of some tubing?


I had this problem the other day. What I did was cut the tubing about 1/2" from the fitting. Then, while holding the fitting in my hand, use some pliers to slowly pull the tubing out of the fitting without making contact or scratching the fitting. Once the tubing is out it should be easy to disassemble the fitting.


----------



## InsideJob

That swiftech komodo. Nice and simple appearance, seems to perform pretty good as well. Had never seen it 'til now.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> If I can ever find another EK nickel-plexi 7970 block in the old style I will get another 7970 for my rig. Otherwise I'll probably make the move to Kepler with the 680 Lightnings and crop circles...


The old-style non-crop circle EK 7970 blocks are getting very scarce now. I could only find one available, at Dazmode, but it's the copper-plexi version:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-fc7970_full_cover_block_for_hd7970_-_plexi_copper_/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Got me some DD blocks (4x) for $180 total! A little late for me though. Could have easily gone w/ 3 or 4 7970s







, lame














.

Going into the SR2?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That swiftech komodo. Nice and simple appearance, seems to perform pretty good as well. Had never seen it 'til now.


Yeah the Komodo looks sweet. I want to trade off my DD blocks for a Komodo, then my whole loop will be Swiftech stuff







.


----------



## Bloitz

Quick question, not worthy of it's own thread IMHO:

Would having 25mm of space between the rad and the top the case be a bad idea? I currently have 3 fans installed there that are pulling air through the rad and out the top..Now I would like to put them on the bottom. However, I don't want to break down the rest of my loop and it's pretty fixed like it is so I would leave the space open.
Would this be a bad idea? Or would there still be plenty of hot air escaping out of the top?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Had a result,Lamptron are replacing my FC6 with a FC 5,Thats a weight off my mind....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Quick question, not worthy of it's own thread IMHO:
> Would having 25mm of space between the rad and the top the case be a bad idea? I currently have 3 fans installed there that are pulling air through the rad and out the top..Now I would like to put them on the bottom. However, I don't want to break down the rest of my loop and it's pretty fixed like it is so I would leave the space open.
> Would this be a bad idea? Or would there still be plenty of hot air escaping out of the top?


You talking about a gap? sure, but air will be flowing out the rad and back into the case. Easy fix: shroud.

You can make one, buy one, or use some old gutted fans and just screw on the fan housings to the rad


----------



## kyismaster

thers ~ 4-5MM gap between my fans and my rad, and i get good temps. lol

the threads on my screws are too long, so Its a must unless the screws would be inside my radiator fins lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thers ~ 4-5MM gap between my fans and my rad, and i get good temps. lol
> the threads on my screws are too long, so Its a must unless the screws would be inside my radiator fins lol


He's talking about a 25mm gap


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> He's talking about a 25mm gap


dear lordis lol, thats a big gap lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> dear lordis lol, thats a big gap lol


I have a slight gap (~2-3mm) since the Monsta plugs don't allow a flush layout on top. No performance harm tbh. Though a bigger gap would have a bigger leakage of air if he's trying to vent out through the top. Shroud should fix it


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Had a result,Lamptron are replacing my FC6 with a FC 5,Thats a weight off my mind....


Both?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Both?


Only one but thats ok,the blown one went back to the vendor.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Both?
> 
> 
> 
> Only one but thats ok,the blown one went back to the vendor.
Click to expand...

Awesome. Glad to hear things worked out.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got me some DD blocks (4x) for $180 total! A little late for me though. Could have easily gone w/ 3 or 4 7970s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , lame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Going into the SR2?
Click to expand...

$180 is solid though! Man. This is why I don't always buy the latest and greatest. Would have cost me over $500 for brand new 7970 blocks if I did this at launch









Nah, SR-2 blew up. Picked up an R3E BE for cheap, I pretty much did full circle


----------



## RKTGX95

Not to sound desperate, but i'd like to hear what the WC community could contribute to my planned future theme *here*. (RA2)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



remember, its the Dwood style mod...


----------



## Kyouki

I am about to watercool my set up with a custom loop. I currently use a H100 and it works fine, but I am going to move it to my second rig (my girls) and re do mine with custom parts. I am only doing my CPU as of right now because I love the GTX690 cover and hate to see it go, and my temps stay low on it as it is. So as of right now this is what is in my cart.



My biggest question is, how do you guys feel that the XSPC X2O DC-750 - Dual 5.25" Bay-Res Pump/Reservoir Combo - V4 performance? And what is the biggest difference or why would it be better to get a cylinder res with pump like I see most people have in this thread. Example, "EK-DDC X-Res 140 CSQ."

I am still looking at fittings. I belive I am going to go with Monsoon but we will see. I will be using Mayhem pastel mint green as coolent.

This is all going into my silverstone TJ10-ESA. Thank you for any help or ideas that might point me in the right direction before I make any mistakes.


----------



## 316320

What tubing and coolant do you guys recommend?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> What tubing and coolant do you guys recommend?


Black tube and DI water.


----------



## iShox

Just about to order the rest of my build.

What I have already:
Corsair 600t
240mm EK XTX XXX 64MM RAD (Front of the Case is modded)
120mm EK XTX 40MM RAD (Exhaust at the back of the case of course)
12 EK 3/8inch Fittings
EK Supreme HF Block
1000w Cooler Master Silent Pro PSU
2 8pin & 1 24 pin Braided Extension Cables
Blue EK Coolant

Overclockers UK Basket:
http://gyazo.com/f24e8b64caa316c7b3f2e6610700d853
http://gyazo.com/f24e8b64caa316c7b3f2e6610700d853
Have to run Wireless unfortunately, pain in the bum.
I've been told the Pump/Res combo is crap. Is that true? Dont really have the money or experience to buy a tube res and pump to be honest. Should I be ok with the Combo?

Specialtech Basket:
http://gyazo.com/9580523fc7791e1122687b954a03a22e
http://gyazo.com/558cde5d6795d9cf65c6b94fffcaac74
My current radiator screws are all stripped, so I'm buying some 'fresh' ones. 35mm are for the radiator brackets... They go inbetween the fan and rad and bolt into the floor of the case. The bracket is 2-3mm thick so the 30mm screws aren't catching in the rad.

Buying a 6990 with Epilson Waterblock locally for 400 euro... BARGAIN!!!

If you guys wouldn't mind helping a rookie, could you point out any obvious mistakes in the build? Incompatibility / missing something etc. Would really appreciate it considering I'm sitting here, hesitating to pay because I've no reassurance about what I'm doing lol. Its not my first build, but it is my first time watercooling....

Thanks in advance


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> What tubing and coolant do you guys recommend?


Duralene and Distilled.









~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> What tubing and coolant do you guys recommend?


no coolant, use distilled water, and Duralene tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> $180 is solid though! Man. This is why I don't always buy the latest and greatest. Would have cost me over $500 for brand new 7970 blocks if I did this at launch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, SR-2 blew up. Picked up an R3E BE for cheap, I pretty much did full circle


Sucks about the SR2







. Why the R3E BE btw? Only 3-way sli (but 4-way x-fire!!!!).


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sucks about the SR2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Why the R3E BE btw? Only 3-way sli (but 4-way x-fire!!!!).


Maybe he haz ROG Xpander?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Maybe he haz ROG Xpander?


Looks like he's going w/ quad 7970s. ROG Expander is really a huge bandaid on what could have been a perfect mb imho. Still, you can get an EVGA 4-way cheaper and get 4-way sli if you needed lga1366 *and* it fits inside most cases.


----------



## vaporizer

sorry ceadder and other EK crop circle haters(includes me). I broke down and bought these. I switched platforms and can't stand looking at my CPU air cooler. EK has a good plexi block and what the heck, got the dom ram block to match. The ram block doesn't seem to have too much flow resriction, so why not add. NO NICKEL this time. I will purchase a new cover(or block) as soon as they fix their machine from doing these circle things, i promise. On to the GPU loop next.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> The old-style non-crop circle EK 7970 blocks are getting very scarce now. I could only find one available, at Dazmode, but it's the copper-plexi version:
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-fc7970_full_cover_block_for_hd7970_-_plexi_copper_/


Oh I know. I barely found the two I have now and that was back in June! I said that knowing that I'd never be able to find one (thus saving me the money and effort of adding a third 7970)...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> What tubing and coolant do you guys recommend?


Durelene tubing, distilled water and Mayhems premix if you want colored coolant...


----------



## SimpleTech

There is a member here who has a couple for sale: http://www.overclock.net/t/1328736/fs-2-ek-fc7970-acetal-en-nickel-non-csq


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> $180 is solid though! Man. This is why I don't always buy the latest and greatest. Would have cost me over $500 for brand new 7970 blocks if I did this at launch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, SR-2 blew up. Picked up an R3E BE for cheap, I pretty much did full circle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sucks about the SR2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Why the R3E BE btw? Only 3-way sli (but 4-way x-fire!!!!).
Click to expand...

Like most hardware I buy, it's just things I've always wanted







and I'm more of an AMD guy for graphics wise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sucks about the SR2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Why the R3E BE btw? Only 3-way sli (but 4-way x-fire!!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe he haz ROG Xpander?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Maybe he haz ROG Xpander?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like he's going w/ quad 7970s. ROG Expander is really a huge bandaid on what could have been a perfect mb imho. Still, you can get an EVGA 4-way cheaper and get 4-way sli if you needed lga1366 *and* it fits inside most cases.
Click to expand...

Funny, I use to about a month ago. I kind of wish I kept it now, I'm sure I could convince Jim @CaseLabs to make me a custome plate to allow it to fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> There is a member here who has a couple for sale: http://www.overclock.net/t/1328736/fs-2-ek-fc7970-acetal-en-nickel-non-csq


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Just drilled and added my fill port today..
looking to finalize my drain now..


waiting until i buy all my major parts (cpu, mobo and gpu)
before i put it all together though..
would have had rad/case extension built already but store
did not have stuff i needed in stock.have to wait a bit now


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> What tubing and coolant do you guys recommend?


The new Primochill Advanced tubing "might" be the next best tubing, time will tell.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> sorry ceadder and other EK crop circle haters(includes me). I broke down and bought these. I switched platforms and can't stand looking at my CPU air cooler. EK has a good plexi block and what the heck, got the dom ram block to match. The ram block doesn't seem to have too much flow resriction, so why not add. NO NICKEL this time. I will purchase a new cover(or block) as soon as they fix their machine from doing these circle things, i promise. On to the GPU loop next.


Alright I'll confess my sins, I bought an EK Supremacy, EK-FB M5E MB blocks, EK-D5 Dual Top 250 CSQ and EK RES X3! The new design is growing on me, that doesn't mean I don't want to see the old design come back though, I always liked the 45 degree grooves!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> There is a member here who has a couple for sale: http://www.overclock.net/t/1328736/fs-2-ek-fc7970-acetal-en-nickel-non-csq


God I love the older style EK water blocks, works of art!


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Just drilled and added my fill port today..
> looking to finalize my drain now..
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waiting until i buy all my major parts (cpu, mobo and gpu)
> before i put it all together though..
> would have had rad/case extension built already but store
> did not have stuff i needed in stock.have to wait a bit now


Not to force your hand, but you're going to put a Monsta rad with pull fans in this extended top that you're making ... ?

that's 105mm high ! that's over 4" tall on a case that's already 23" tall - not that that's any record, there's plenty of cases with additions that come out taller or nearly as tall, but I'M SAYIN - thats TALL


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Not to force your hand, but you're going to put a Monsta rad with pull fans in this extended top that you're making ... ?
> that's 105mm high ! that's over 4" tall on a case that's already 23" tall - not that that's any record, there's plenty of cases with additions that come out taller or nearly as tall, but I'M SAYIN - thats TALL


If he goes w/ a 360mm one, he should have plenty of space to clear the slot brackets. A 480mm Monsta is a real challenging task to accomplish









Heck, I'm just have a couple of mm w/ only a push set of fans on my top Monsta 360mm


----------



## MiiX

Slightly confused here: Duralene and Durelene is the same, right?
If using destilled water, how do you guys mix it and what do you mix it with?


----------



## Krahe

just use the distilled water and a silver kill coil, or one of the mayhem's dye's (iirc they have everything added) but by far the best additive is a single malt scotch.


----------



## MiiX

Iv heard alot ofbad thingsabout the Silver KillCoil...
http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Iv heard alot ofbad thingsabout the Silver KillCoil...
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf


I am not using a Killcoil. Of course my system is in a very low natural light area(like almost none) and I'm using opaque tubing. With no direct light on the Reservoir I really don't need it and my tubing has Biocide embedded in it. Not that that matters too much with the Leeching going. Which is why I suggest Durelene(sp?) because it seems not to leach as bad as the rest of the tubing on the market.

So if your system doesn't get direct sunlight on it, you really don't need a Killcoil. I wouldn't put too much stock in the excuses that EK made regarding Killcoil. People that have never used it have had issues with EK. I'm not sure what is causing the issues but I do think that Killcoil gets a bad rap where EK is concerned because no other manufacturer is having this problem where the plating is concerned. I really don't think that using Killcoil leads to corrosion. It's always possible but as I said above if you don't need it don't worry about using it at all.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Iv heard alot ofbad thingsabout the Silver KillCoil...
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf


I've used a silver kill coil with all kinds of blocks in all kinds of rigs. No issues. Ever.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am not using a Killcoil. Of course my system is in a very low natural light area(like almost none) and I'm using opaque tubing. With no direct light on the Reservoir I really don't need it and my tubing has Biocide embedded in it. Not that that matters too much with the Leeching going. Which is why I suggest Durelene(sp?) because it seems not to leach as bad as the rest of the tubing on the market.
> So if your system doesn't get direct sunlight on it, you really don't need a Killcoil. I wouldn't put too much stock in the excuses that EK made regarding Killcoil. *People that have never used it have had issues with EK. I'm not sure what is causing the issues but I do think that Killcoil gets a bad rap where EK is concerned because no other manufacturer is having this problem where the plating is concerned.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That^^

Blaming a kill coil or Cu Nuke when other products with Ni plating dont suffer the same problems was a bit much. The whole report (like most scientific reports) was a collection of "if's buts and maybe's".

I have 10 drops of Cu Nuke in my SR-2,when its strip down time in a few months lets see if my blocks are damaged in any way....I have a feeling my Watercool blocks will be fine......

I have to say,just an absence of light is not what i would consider bio protection and I would urge people to use some form of Biocide,which one you use is your choice however.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I've used a silver kill coil with all kinds of blocks in all kinds of rigs. No issues. Ever.


This also.


----------



## MiiX

Lots of great info here, thanks! I will probably go for a Silver KillCoil.

Im planning a later build, and i'v come to a spot where I cannot find the answer. What pump will be enough for CPU-block, GPU-block and a 3x120 radiator? Will the MCP655 be overpowered for this? Keep in mind that this is a mITX case with 4+ 90-degree fittings.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If he goes w/ a 360mm one, he should have plenty of space to clear the slot brackets. A 480mm Monsta is a real challenging task to accomplish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heck, I'm just have a couple of mm w/ only a push set of fans on my top Monsta 360mm


He's stated before that he's adding 3" to the top. I dunno the size of the rad, but this case is a problem - on reverse atx, it has 54mm of room from inside case top to the top of the expansion slots cage.
In normal atx setup, there's 50mm of room before hitting the usb jacks on most mobos - if they're at the top. My asus z77 deluxe qualifies.

So ... yah. I'm curious to see his solution, coz this case was id-ed by the company as having 480 and 240 rad compatibility and I hit the trigger before I knew what I was getting into .... and back in July, is when I bought mine and then ran across the new 80mm Monsta and natchly, wanted sum of dat !


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am not using a Killcoil. Of course my system is in a very low natural light area(like almost none) and I'm using opaque tubing. With no direct light on the Reservoir I really don't need it and my tubing has Biocide embedded in it. Not that that matters too much with the Leeching going. Which is why I suggest Durelene(sp?) because it seems not to leach as bad as the rest of the tubing on the market.
> So if your system doesn't get direct sunlight on it, you really don't need a Killcoil. I wouldn't put too much stock in the excuses that EK made regarding Killcoil. People that have never used it have had issues with EK. I'm not sure what is causing the issues but I do think that Killcoil gets a bad rap where EK is concerned because no other manufacturer is having this problem where the plating is concerned. I really don't think that using Killcoil leads to corrosion. It's always possible but as I said above if you don't need it don't worry about using it at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I've used a silver kill coil with all kinds of blocks in all kinds of rigs. No issues. Ever.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That^^
> Blaming a kill coil or Cu Nuke when other products with Ni plating dont suffer the same problems was a bit much. The whole report (like most scientific reports) was a collection of "if's buts and maybe's".
> I have 10 drops of Cu Nuke in my SR-2,when its strip down time in a few months lets see if my blocks are damaged in any way....I have a feeling my Watercool blocks will be fine......
> I have to say,just an absence of light is not what i would consider bio protection and I would urge people to use some form of Biocide,which one you use is your choice however.
> This also.


I agree with what you's are saying totally, about the kill coil. There is to much proof showing they are OK.

But I have to agree with B neg. more then Ceadder in this case about natural light. Because natural light will help bacteria grow, but the UV light from the sun is also one of the best means of controlling bacteria growth.

At work we run rain water past a UV light (proper UV light, not a black light) to stop and control bacteria, and the Council and EPA have accepted this a safe means for controlling bacteria growth.


----------



## wermad

Finished!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Because natural light will help bacteria grow, but the UV light from the sun is also one of the best means of controlling bacteria growth.
> At work we run rain water past a UV light (proper UV light, not a black light) to stop and control bacteria, and the Council and EPA have accepted this a safe means for controlling bacteria growth.


Not to mention that there are several types of microbe that are capable of thriving in hot water with absolutely no natural light (hot water springs deep in caves for example) simple light control is no guarantee. The likelihood of any of these organisms actually being present in either your tubing, blocks, or DI water... is pretty much nil but in principle only having warm water and no natural light isn't reason enough to assume 0% bio-growth.

I decided not to do a SKC in my rig, but I'm using Dead Water (Cu Nuke). I think the primary advantage of the coil is that if you aren't somewhat obsessive about maintenance then you'll probably still be fine since the coil should work for years depending on the purity of the silver. If you're using biocide (IIRC) it slowly loses efficacy over time so you need to add a couple of drops every 6-8 weeks to maintain the levels. I plan on completely draining/flushing/refilling mine (along with cleaning all my dust filters) every 2 months... but I'm pretty OCD when it comes to cleaning the inside of my PCs.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I agree with what you's are saying totally, about the kill coil. There is to much proof showing they are OK.
> But I have to agree with B neg. more then Ceadder in this case about natural light. Because natural light will help bacteria grow, but the UV light from the sun is also one of the best means of controlling bacteria growth.
> At work we run rain water past a UV light (proper UV light, not a black light) to stop and control bacteria, and the Council and EPA have accepted this a safe means for controlling bacteria growth.


Right. But that is a very high output UV, and is very commonly used in the bottled water industry and others for killing bacteria as well as pumping stations at the source. How effective it is depends on the strength of the UV, contact time and flow rate of the water passing the UV light.
Also ozone is often used but it's sort of a "one shot" deal as it works to kill bacteria and then dissipates. Since ozone is also highly corrosive it's used within stainless steel containers/piping primarily.

I haven't been water cooling that long (7 months) but both my w/c rigs are using just silver coil and I've yet to see any bad effects.
---

The EK non-CSQ blocks aren't hard to get IF you can be happy with the Acetyl versions. At least EK & PPCs still had them recently when I bought my last one. These aren't Nickel plated though.


----------



## MrYakuZa

]


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!


Looking great! whats the temp on those gpu full load?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*


Such hot product! great photography btw, you gonna use that on your upcoming build or its been done?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Looking great! whats the temp on those gpu full load?


Haven't checked them while benching but idle is in the low 30s. I'm sure its under 50-55°c at load. Only benched @800 core so far and my cpu @ 4.7.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Dual D5 top im using on Arctic Water....




























Crop circle free.

Scientologists everywhere are weeping in sadness.....


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Iv heard alot ofbad thingsabout the Silver KillCoil...
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf


I have been using a Silver Kill Coil ever since I got into water cooling a few months ago, I have yet to see any problem on my blocks, I use distilled water and silver kill coil, nothing else.

I've been thinking of buying some clear tubing (I have some mastercleer blue tubing) to use some mayhems dye or something, but then realized I have my PC on the floor so it's not worth it, rather keep it clean with just distilled water.


----------



## Fonne

*FC water block for reference design GTX 660 in the works!*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/289/19/FC-water-block-for-reference-design-GTX-660-in-the-works/
Quote:


> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear provider, is currently working on a Full-Cover (FC) water block for nVidia reference design GeForce GTX 660 graphics cards based on the GK106 core.
> 
> The upcoming EK-FC660 GTX for nVidia reference design GeForce GTX 660 graphic cards will directly cool the GK106 GPU, RAM as well as VRM (voltage regulation module) as water will flow directly over these critical areas thus allowing the graphics card and it's VRM to remain stable under high overclocks. EK-FC660 GTX water block will features a very high flow design therefore it can be easily used in liquid cooling systems using weaker water pumps.
> 
> This water block will most likely be released in two versions - Nickel Plexi and Nickel Acetal. Please note that this water block will not be compatible with GeForce GTX 660 Ti series graphics cards based on GK104 GPU core. These cards are already covered by our EK-FC670 GTX as well as EK-FC670 GTX DCII series water blocks.
> 
> Expected release date is 15th of December with MSRP of 80.95€ and 86.95 (incl. VAT) respectively.


----------



## Fonne

The XSPC RAD Stand has been shown earlier in this thread, but dont think that all theese has been shown ?

*AX Radiator Desk Stand*

http://www.xs-pc.com/slider/ax-radiator-desk-stand/


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Had a result,Lamptron are replacing my FC6 with a FC 5,Thats a weight off my mind....


Great news mate-good one!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Slightly confused here: Duralene and Durelene is the same, right?
> If using destilled water, how do you guys mix it and what do you mix it with?


At the risk of repeating what has already been said, just go with distilled water(it does not need mixing) and use a SKC plus some sort of biocide.
Safe stuff to start off with, then as you progress and gain more experience, you can start experimenting, and seeing whats what-most of all, have fun mate & don't forget to put aside a loads of money, you will need it, once the wc bug's poison kicks in









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> just use the distilled water and a silver kill coil, or one of the mayhem's dye's (iirc they have everything added) but by far the best additive is a single malt scotch.


LOL! best reply ive heard in a while









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!


Good job mate-looks good after all the effort you put into buliding it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Not to mention that there are several types of microbe that are capable of thriving in hot water with absolutely no natural light (hot water springs deep in caves for example) simple light control is no guarantee. The likelihood of any of these organisms actually being present in either your tubing, blocks, or DI water... is pretty much nil but in principle only having warm water and no natural light isn't reason enough to assume 0% bio-growth.
> I decided not to do a SKC in my rig, but I'm using Dead Water (Cu Nuke). I think the primary advantage of the coil is that if you aren't somewhat obsessive about maintenance then you'll probably still be fine since the coil should work for years depending on the purity of the silver. If you're using biocide (IIRC) it slowly loses efficacy over time so you need to add a couple of drops every 6-8 weeks to maintain the levels. I plan on completely draining/flushing/refilling mine (along with cleaning all my dust filters) every 2 months... but I'm pretty OCD when it comes to cleaning the inside of my PCs.


Moi aussi.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Since when has Bundymania taken on a photography apprentice?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dual D5 top im using on Arctic Water....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crop circle free.
> Scientologists everywhere are weeping in sadness.....


Plain and simple-the way god meant them to be


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Iv heard alot ofbad thingsabout the Silver KillCoil...
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf


Hope I am not besting a dead horse, but the only issue I have had with a kill coil is with EK nickel blocks. Chemistry is chemistry and kill coils are all right in my book


----------



## vaporizer

Besting=beating


----------



## Hanoverfist

vaporizer... you can edit posts


----------



## d3spis3m3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that correct, 1.5V for 3.6GHz? That seems insanely high.


I thought so at first but thats what the catalyst center was testing the overclocks with. I tried it in the BIOS and worked perfectly. And with the water cooling and Prime95, non of the processors drop out. No all I have to do is get a WC system for the VRM and off we go.


----------



## kyismaster

Im using a primochill silver killcoil, Im not too worried, all of my pieces are brass and copper.


----------



## khemist

Slight update on mine -


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Slight update on mine -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A non CSQ waterblock for a 680? Nice looking loop!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> A non CSQ waterblock for a 680? Nice looking loop!


Thanks, yeah i bought it as soon as they came out and i'm glad i did or i wouldn't be using EK since i don't like the new ones.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Thanks, yeah i bought it as soon as they came out and i'm glad i did or i wouldn't be using EK since i don't like the new ones.


Lucky! I just got the CSQ version, it looks pretty good in person. But I would have preferred the non-csq version.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Slight update on mine -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ha, it almost looks like you are watercooling your sound card


----------



## Phelan

I'm glad I got a 7970 instead of a non-EVGA 680. I prefer Komodo blocks myself, and Evga has a deal with Swiftech to have them make Nvidia Komodo blocks exclusively for them.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Slight update on mine -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Best looking single card WC'd system I've seen in a while. Bravo sir.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Looking great! whats the temp on those gpu full load?
> Such hot product! great photography btw, you gonna use that on your upcoming build or its been done?


Are my reservations if scarce ......... xD


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Best looking single card WC'd system I've seen in a while. Bravo sir.


Thanks a lot!.


----------



## handi420

Finally got my psu cables in!
All finished for the time being.


----------



## RKTGX95

Black Friday is upcoming. are there any WC gear sales to mention? (so i can order my loop)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> Finally got my psu cables in!
> All finished for the time being.


i must say that this is a very beautiful build and loop. especially those white BP fittings. (how did you place that SSD there?")


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Black Friday is upcoming. are there any WC gear sales to mention? (so i can order my loop)
> i must say that this is a very beautiful build and loop. especially those white BP fittings. (how did you place that SSD there?")


Used two of those thumb screws used to secure optical drives and screwed them from the inside out to the ssd, holes line up very well.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Black Friday is upcoming. are there any WC gear sales to mention? (so i can order my loop)
> i must say that this is a very beautiful build and loop. especially those white BP fittings. (how did you place that SSD there?")


PPCS had some Thanksgiving deals and a 8% off coupon - you should sign up for such sites' emails ....

http://us1.campaign-archive1.com/?u=c5d0ca22f571464ad3718ac66&id=93429ac4c1&e=d09812e9be

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> Used two of those thumb screws used to secure optical drives and screwed them from the inside out to the ssd, holes line up very well.


Thats a neat trick, giving your rig a bit of a post-around, nice


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Slight update on mine -


Outstanding work! love it!
that blue color on the motherboard really bothers me though







man.. if you can grab asrock z77 oc formula it would just be a rigasm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> Finally got my psu cables in!
> All finished for the time being.


nice build







simple... can hide some of the cables more though especially around the HHD dock


----------



## khemist

Thanks!, but there is no way i'm shelling out on any more pc gear for quite a while.. time to save some pennies.


----------



## strong island 1

Finally finished adding my GPU's to my loop last night. I hope you guys like it. I have to try and straighten the bottom line. I also need to hide the pump better, but this case really sucks for watercooling. I'm trying to save up for a Case Labs STH10 so I can move all this gear into a case like that. I think all these components deserve to be in a case labs case and then I can add another 360 rad. For right now though my temps are really good with just a RX360 rad.


----------



## dark7721

Some very nice rigs here

Sent from Tapatalk HD


----------



## 316320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> no coolant, use distilled water, and Duralene tubing.


Would you add additives to the water? and does Duralene make any solid color tubing?


----------



## kamikaze_

I'm not really satisfied with the way everything is set up so far, but I'm too lazy to mess around with anything in it for right now. Just a few things I have to get to call this a done build, that way my old 980x 600T build and this one will be two totally different computers apart from each other.


----------



## subykon

Shorten that tube that goes from the cpu to the top rad. LOL


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subykon*
> 
> Shorten that tube that goes from the cpu to the top rad. LOL


yeah i half-assed this build, i just wanted to get it up and running to know that nothing is defective. my old build was all about the looks of it when i had it going, here's a picture from a few months ago when i had an old X58 FTW3 replacing my dead Rampage III Extreme.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Argh, so tempted to pull the trigger to go full Bitspower fittings for my build since PerformancePCS has their 8% deal until the 25th.







And the international shipping at 60$ isn't too bad either.

EDIT: Let's add an image since it's the "Picture Gallery" thread. My very first watercooling setup, that didn't work out as i thought, just look at the way the water needs to go to get to the pump from the res.







Oh well, everybody is a newb at some point.


----------



## kj1060

So I was curious if my block manufacturers had a suggested way of cleaning their blocks and I received a response from Swiftech today. It pointed me to this page on their website.
Quote:


> How Do I Clean My Loop?
> Cleaning your loop the "green way"
> 
> Pine oil (a phenolic disinfectant) is an essential oil used in cleaning products such as Pine-Sol and similar products. We recommend using the original Pine-Sol® brand (which is a Clorox® product), because of its wide-spread availability worldwide, but you can also purchase pine oil from various sources online as well as many local health food stores. Please consult online resources for concentration if preparing your own mix.
> 
> Procedure Pre-requisites
> 
> CRITICAL: Unplug the power connector to the motherboard! Components (CPU, GPU, etc..) should not be running during the cleaning procedure.
> 
> Use either a test-plug, or short-out pin 14 (connecting the green wire to a black wire using a paper-clip) so that your power-supply will start-up and power your pump. Alternatively, use a separate power supply if available to power-up your pump.
> 
> Cleaning procedure
> 
> 1. Mix (1) one to (2) two table-spoons of Pine-Sol® brand detergent to 1 Gallon of Distilled water; for a more vigorous cleaning you may use only 1/2 gallon if your system is very dirty or severely polluted with algae growth.
> 
> 2. Cleaning: fill-up the loop, and run it with this mixture for several hours (no less than 3).
> 
> 3. Rinsing: drain the mixture, then refill the loop with pure distilled water and run the system for no less that 30 min to rinse (you may run it longer if higher concentration of Pine-Sol was used).
> 
> 4. Final rinse: drain the dirty rinse water, and refill the loop again with distilled water, and run the system again for no less than 20 minutes.
> 
> 5. Completely drain the final rinse water; your system is now ready to be refilled with coolant.
> 
> Recommended Coolant: we recommend using a mix of 10% Hydrx + distilled water (1 bottle Hydrx to ½ Liter distilled water).
> 
> Reference:
> 
> Pine-Sol® Contents (per manufacturer)
> Primary ingredient: Pine Oil (about 10%)
> Secondary ingredients: Alkyl alcohol ethoxylates, Isopropyl alcohol, and sodium petroleum sulfonate (sufractants)


While I am very inclined to believe them, however I was just curious if anyone else had heard or tried this before? I have yet to contact XSPC.


----------



## DueVendetta

Here's mine.



Kept it simple like myself. Gets the job done.
If I ever need more I'll add a rad and get some new GPU's and throw on some waterblocks.

For now it's just the XSPC Rasa Rs240 Kit.
Dual Bay Res with pump inside, 240 Rad, and Raystorm Waterblock.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DueVendetta*
> 
> Here's mine.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kept it simple like myself. Gets the job done.
> If I ever need more I'll add a rad and get some new GPU's and throw on some waterblocks.
> For now it's just the XSPC Rasa Rs240 Kit.
> Dual Bay Res with pump inside, 240 Rad, and Raystorm Waterblock.


Very nice looking


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ugh, i wanna start another watercooling build, but have no way of justifying another computer, already have my main rig, and a m14x... contemplating selling my main rig, but dont know if i can, i like it so much lol

wish i was rich! hahaha


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ugh, i wanna start another watercooling build, but have no way of justifying another computer, already have my main rig, and a m14x... contemplating selling my main rig, but dont know if i can, i like it so much lol
> wish i was rich! hahaha


Sell it and start a new one







. I've been known to do that


----------



## kamikaze_

okay so i was not happy with the way i had my water cooling set up or the cable mess where my power supply was, so i took three hours to re-modify everything and put the block back onto my GTX 570.


----------



## subykon

Flip your block around. Crossing tubes is iffy. ):


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subykon*
> 
> Flip your block around. Crossing tubes is iffy. ):


----------



## kamikaze_

my ocd will never let me walk away from my computer knowing my block is flipped.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subykon*
> 
> Flip your block around. Crossing tubes is iffy. ):


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Simply elegant!!!


----------



## 316320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> 
> Simply elegant!!!


What size tubing is that 5/8 OD?


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> What size tubing is that 5/8 OD?


Who's







mine is 3/4 OD


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> Who's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine is 3/4 od


That's pretty close, only 1/8" off


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> What size tubing is that 5/8 OD?


I'm not sure, that is another person's PC I commented on.


----------



## 316320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> I'm not sure, that is another person's PC I commented on.


Ops. Should have looked at sig. Btw nice build


----------



## jellybeans69

Colored tubing plus distilled water vs Clear tubing, distilled and dye. Thoughts, comments which one do you prefer?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Colored tubing plus distilled water vs Clear tubing, distilled and dye. Thoughts, comments which one do you prefer?


Colored and Distilled.

Dye eventually separates. often gunks up.

then again, i plan to add UV additives to my DI with clear tubing....


----------



## kamikaze_

UV coolant fogged up my tubing and I don't like how it looks. I don't have pipe cleaners either.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Colored tubing plus distilled water vs Clear tubing, distilled and dye. Thoughts, comments which one do you prefer?
> 
> 
> 
> Colored and Distilled.
> 
> Dye eventually separates. often gunks up.
> 
> then again, i plan to add UV additives to my DI with clear tubing....
Click to expand...

You generalize. Not all do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> UV coolant fogged up my tubing and I don't like how it looks. I don't have pipe cleaners either.


What tubing are you using?


----------



## DueVendetta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> 
> Simply elegant!!!


Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> What size tubing is that 5/8 OD?


And yes you're right. It's 7/16 ID and 5/8 OD tubing.


----------



## kyismaster

OH update:

After installing my Duralene tubing,

The old XSPC tubing that came with the raystorm kit fogged up and is now... I don't know chalky?

I used pure water so its no hard water sediment.









I tried the same with some extra duralene and no fogging.

Very interesting.


----------



## Meisseli

heres my rig! not fully ready yet but wanted to upload some photos to get your opinion on it guys..









if you guys have anything to recommend, Add, comment or discuss about please tell me! appreciating every opinion! THANKS

Meisseli

EDIT: Don't notice that philips remote thats sitting under the res, its there because i had to get something to hold the res at the same level as the pump intake. if not the res would have tumbled over... replacing it with a lit acrylic piece i think...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You generalize. Not all do.


Fug knows. Its not the dye that gunks blocks,its plasticizer and or Cu biocide added to dye.

Looks like this...



Nasty yes?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> OH update:
> After installing my Duralene tubing,
> The old XSPC tubing that came with the raystorm kit fogged up and is now... I don't know chalky?
> I used pure water so its no hard water sediment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the same with some extra duralene and no fogging.
> Very interesting.


So now you know first hand what kind of gunk leeches out of the tubing.


----------



## Attacktrak

Yup, that happens to me to, sediments in the coolant.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> What tubing are you using?


I'm using PrimoFlex (PrimoChill) 7/16" id X 5/8" od tubing.


----------



## dark7721

what is the advantige of having a duel pump like this in the water cooling loop ?

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-163-XS&groupid=962&catid=2133&subcat=1845

im a noob to water cooling im waiting on my NZXT Phantom 820 to watercool


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> what is the advantige of having a duel pump like this in the water cooling loop ?
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-163-XS&groupid=962&catid=2133&subcat=1845
> im a noob to water cooling im waiting on my NZXT Phantom 820 to watercool


Noob here too, but i belive its higher flow/pressure and redundancy encase one pump dies.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> what is the advantige of having a duel pump like this in the water cooling loop ?
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-163-XS&groupid=962&catid=2133&subcat=1845
> im a noob to water cooling im waiting on my NZXT Phantom 820 to watercool


Main purpose as I know is to protect your other more expensive components, lets say you water cool all your components including SLI and mobo
other than its too high in restriction which requires two pumps, if only one pump installed and it dies (which happens), it wouldn't burn your more expensive components









But it has a drawback on the overall temp, 2 pumps = more heat especially dual DDC (which I'm using)
not sure bout getting more heat with any other type of pump


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> What size tubing is that 5/8 OD?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure, that is another person's PC I commented on.
Click to expand...

This guy... Stealing my avatar


----------



## dark7721

hi thanks guys for expaling that what is a good res n pump combo i would like a duel bay res so i can see it lol bit vain any good makes that have been good for you all on here ?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> heres my rig! not fully ready yet but wanted to upload some photos to get your opinion on it guys..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you guys have anything to recommend, Add, comment or discuss about please tell me! appreciating every opinion! THANKS
> Meisseli
> EDIT: Don't notice that philips remote thats sitting under the res, its there because i had to get something to hold the res at the same level as the pump intake. if not the res would have tumbled over... replacing it with a lit acrylic piece i think...


Big. A. Reservoir.

(Commenting on your current one, which looks great btw. Not suggesting a bigger one lol)


----------



## Meisseli

thanks!! wanted to go for something big and this is also a good way to hide the fugly pump and other stuff..









and wont be running out of coolant if it starts to evaporate or something..









this was my first minor mod/ watercooling build ever... pretty pleased on it already..


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> This guy... Stealing my avatar


rofl


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> This guy... Stealing my avatar


pfft, who's a guy?


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Main purpose as I know is to protect your other more expensive components, lets say you water cool all your components including SLI and mobo
> other than its too high in restriction which requires two pumps, if only one pump installed and it dies (which happens), it wouldn't burn your more expensive components
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it has a drawback on the overall temp, 2 pumps = more heat especially dual DDC (which I'm using)
> not sure bout getting more heat with any other type of pump



I run my 2 pumps togather in a single loop with high speed fans
My temps barley passed 53c on full load @ 5.1Ghz in prim95 benchtest


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> This guy... Stealing my avatar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pfft, who's a guy?
Click to expand...

You!

Until proven otherwise


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You!
> Until proven otherwise


pfft, proven nothing


----------



## derickwm

Now I'm just confused. You'll be hearing from my laywers.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by evolutionxxx86
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by derickwm
> 
> This guy... Stealing my avatar
> pfft, who's a guy?
> 
> 
> 
> You!
> Until proven otherwise
Click to expand...









~~







....


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Now I'm just confused. You'll be hearing from my laywers.


check your "new messages" in overclock.net


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evolutionxxx86*
> 
> pfft, proven nothing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Now I'm just confused. You'll be hearing from my laywers.


Because i can, and there's nothing anyone can do about it..... And its just hilarious


----------



## RKTGX95

hey guys, what should be the minimum rad space for cpu and dual gpus with MoBo VRM block? (the M5F stock one) what is the recommended?


----------



## wermad

Went to add a few drops of Mayhems to my res. Totally forgot I have no fan grills/guards on my top fans. One of the top fans knicked the bottle dye. Looks like I was bleeding blue blood, lol.

Busted out the hot-glue gun and patched up the bottle. Saved most of it though I had another







moment









Happy Tnx-giving ppl


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went to add a few drops of Mayhems to my res. Totally forgot I have no fan grills/guards on my top fans. One of the top fans knicked the bottle dye. Looks like I was bleeding blue blood, lol.
> Busted out the hot-glue gun and patched up the bottle. Saved most of it though I had another
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy Tnx-giving ppl


i'm sure that if it was a red bottle and someone came into your room he'd think that you murdered your PC / someone and tried to hide him in or behind the PC


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went to add a few drops of Mayhems to my res. Totally forgot I have no fan grills/guards on my top fans. One of the top fans knicked the bottle dye. Looks like I was bleeding blue blood, lol.
> Busted out the hot-glue gun and patched up the bottle. Saved most of it though I had another
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy Tnx-giving ppl


You should start filming yourself when you do ANYTHING that concerns your computer...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i'm sure that if it was a red bottle and someone came into your room he'd think that you murdered your PC / someone and tried to hide him in or behind the PC


I had to drop the grills as they were clashing with the ram slots on my new mb.

In a passionate whim, i stabbed my pc. I is guilty








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> You should start filming yourself when you do ANYTHING that concerns your computer...


Nah, that would be weird though







. We all have our







moments. Time to share, anyone, ?

btw, I used some acetone and i still can't get the blue off







. Looks like I murdered a smurf or a blueberry


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had to drop the grills as they were clashing with the ram slots on my new mb.
> In a passionate whim, i stabbed my pc. I is guilty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, that would be weird though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We all have our
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moments. Time to share, anyone, ?
> btw, I used some acetone and i still can't get the blue off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Looks like I murdered a smurf or a blueberry


i think i have the weirdest idea for a horror film...


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nah, that would be weird though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We all have our
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moments. Time to share, anyone, ?


Yep, when I sheared a capacitor off of my GTX 280 as I was removing a Swiftech Uni-Sink from it:doh:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Yep, when I sheared a capacitor off of my GTX 280 as I was removing a Swiftech Uni-Sink from it:doh:


Ouch...I dropped my 4870x2 w/ the a water block on it. Its still there in my parts bin :'(. $400 down the drain (back then).

Anyways, I spent the morning cleaning and the blue is gone.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> You should start filming yourself when you do ANYTHING that concerns your computer...


In my case, I could just shove a camera in my room and hook it up to a 4TB array, for a whole week of non-stop video recording...









More seriously, yes, when possible, let's record. Even if it's bad, at least that can make pretty waterfalls/fail compilations.

Happy Thanksgivings to who celebrates it (I don't .. Aside from pea soup, cause I don't turkey that much







)

I'd post pictures, but first, my rig BURRRNS the eyes. Second, well, It didn't changed since a week.


----------



## MetallicAcid

*Currently dreaming of my water cooling set up*


----------



## Meisseli

hey guys you want to give me any opinions, hints, tips or anything about my build? pics are in the rigs specs and a few posts back on this thread... THANKS AHEAD!

Meisseli


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> hey guys you want to give me any opinions, hints, tips or anything about my build? pics are in the rigs specs and a few posts back on this thread... THANKS AHEAD!
> Meisseli



any way to flip the cpu waterblock around or flip the top radiator around?


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> hey guys you want to give me any opinions, hints, tips or anything about my build? pics are in the rigs specs and a few posts back on this thread... THANKS AHEAD!
> Meisseli


Quick look -
Gskill Ram, How are those? Personally i went with the Corsair Vengeance, they had a better review.

SSD's - OCZ Agility 3... Are these the ones that had HUGE issues, and caused a serious downfall in the company? Or am i thinking of something else?

Personally, i really don't like the front fans... square shaped LED's just look... weird...

Not really sure what to say based on the pics you have there.

In my system, i just swapped all my fans for Enermax TB Silence ones, WAY better, and i can't even hear my machine running with 6 fans.

Food for thought, mostly just cosmetics.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> *Currently dreaming of my water cooling set up*


It all starts with a dream my friend


----------



## derickwm

Well... all 4 7970s have been ordered. Blocks should arrive somewhere around the end of the month. Too bad I won't be able to install any of them till January


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well... all 4 7970s have been ordered. Blocks should arrive somewhere around the end of the month. Too bad I won't be able to install any of them till January


PFFT 2 month wait. I have a M8 + pedestal and WC gear sitting here and I can't build it till next August. My stuff goes into a big box on Monday and gets sent to the other side of the world.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> hi thanks guys for expaling that what is a good res n pump combo i would like a duel bay res so i can see it lol bit vain any good makes that have been good for you all on here ?


Koolance makes some interesting dual bay res


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> In my case, I could just shove a camera in my room and hook it up to a 4TB array, for a whole week of non-stop video recording...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More seriously, yes, when possible, let's record. Even if it's bad, at least that can make pretty waterfalls/fail compilations.
> Happy Thanksgivings to who celebrates it (I don't .. Aside from pea soup, cause I don't turkey that much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> I'd post pictures, but first, my rig BURRRNS the eyes. Second, well, It didn't changed since a week.


Lol, I was recording my build log during the leak test when I got multiple leaks! Should post that up, its quite funny...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> hey guys you want to give me any opinions, hints, tips or anything about my build? pics are in the rigs specs and a few posts back on this thread... THANKS AHEAD!
> Meisseli


Looking good and simple







how do you mount the reservoir though?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> It all starts with a dream my friend


Or, as in my case, vivid hallucinations









Darlene


----------



## kcuestag

My biggest fail on water cooling (I've only been on watercooling for like 6 months) was to open my CPU block (EK Supreme HF Plexi) to clean it then not being able to close it with the "o-ring" seal, so it would leak all the time.

I was so desperate I almost ordered another one, had such a hard time putting it back in properly with my hands, so I had my dad do it for me, I was not cappable of putting the rubber seal back in it's place.









Luckily I've never had any leak or major fails so far, I hope it continues like that for a very long time.


----------



## SimpleTech

^^ You're not alone. I had a similar issue with their full coverage GPU block. I needed to clean out my 5870 and when I was putting it back together I could not for the love of me get the o-ring to stay in place. After some frustration I found that using regular tape to hold the o-ring in place and then put the top on and then carefully remove each piece of tape. Took a little while but I got it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Silicone grease is handy for sticking o-rings in place while you get covers on.


----------



## Ceadderman

Saw this on FB and while it's very nice, it's certainly no B Neg dual chip cooling system.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fB*


But very much worth sharing here. Not even the fugly Crop Circle blocks could bother my OCD enough to stop me.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Saw this on FB and while it's very nice, it's certainly no B Neg dual chip cooling system.
> But very much worth sharing here. Not even the fugly Crop Circle blocks could bother my OCD enough to stop me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


I seen that on a different site too. Definitely one of the best builds I have seen. I love the acrylic work here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Saw this on FB and while it's very nice, it's certainly no B Neg dual chip cooling system.
> But very much worth sharing here. Not even the fugly Crop Circle blocks could bother my OCD enough to stop me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seen that on a different site too. Definitely one of the best builds I have seen. I love the acrylic work here.
Click to expand...

Yeah love the Acrylic cooling lanes built into the light panel. I saw that an was pretty impressed. I bet the guy that did that had to pressure test it for leakage. Very solid detail that really stands out when lit.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Saw this on FB and while it's very nice, it's certainly no B Neg dual chip cooling system.
> But very much worth sharing here. Not even the fugly Crop Circle blocks could bother my OCD enough to stop me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


I saw it too,that light panel is great,wish i had a CNC.......and a scroll saw.........and a 3d printer.......and a chroming bath....and a drill press ......and a sheet metal bender....








One day.....

There is one thing about that rig that bothers me,that over sized bridge...Ricardo would of made him a dual sli instead of that triple if he had asked


----------



## derickwm

Link to log on that anyone?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bittech
Search for twister 800d


----------



## kyismaster

I guess im lucky to get my WC perfect my first time? (( Besides putting the fittings on without the O-rings, luckily I noticed before putting any tubing on lol ))


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

OMG that blue rig is an absolute work of art! The water channels in the acrylic are like "***" impressive!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Okay... will an Alphacool XT45 360MM and an Alphacool UT60 240MM be good enough for two 7970 overclocked and an overclocked i7 3820?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## d3vour3r

Yep. I've got a 280 and 240 cooling 2 7970s and a 3930k

Sent from my galaxy s2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric




----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mmmmmm another TJ11, looks yummy!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> Yep. I've got a 280 and 240 cooling 2 7970s and a 3930k
> Sent from my galaxy s2 using Tapatalk


Awesome, thanks! What's your temps?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> Mmmmmm another TJ11, looks yummy!


Definitely my favorite case!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*


RIG-gasm









love your setup as well!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


needs one more monitor for Eyefinity...


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Definitely my favorite case!


AMEN BRO!!
Well I will also post my Worklog Here!
Although it takes years and two months running, better late than never! xD


----------



## Ceadderman

Lovely work Majin. If I weren't in a bad mood due to Fail Sale, I'd be drooling right now... screw that...









People have no damned patience at all sometimes I swear. Told dude about how long it takes to ship to Canada and 1 day later than estimated... still not there. Lemme pull out my trusty Customs dispute ray gun that will speed up the process.









~Ceadder


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lemme pull out my trusty Customs dispute ray gun that will speed up the process.


This is why I try to buy from Dazmode or NCIX whenever possible. Customs can be a serious pain.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lemme pull out my trusty Customs dispute ray gun that will speed up the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why I try to buy from Dazmode or NCIX whenever possible. Customs can be a serious pain.
Click to expand...

Yeahup but the last time I shipped to Canada it took about 2 weeks. I never *promised* 2 weeks and he was buying used and I shipped on MY dime not his. He just wanted me to refund him on his word that he was going to turn the package around once it finally clears customs. Now I am not doubting his sincerity on that but who is stupid enough to refund on anyone's word? I have a customs form with his name and postmark on it. I can prove that I sent the package.

No offense meant to anyone on OCN, but if you are expecting the moon when buying used gear you really oughtn't buy from Marketplace unless someone lists it as BNIB. On top of that he tried to use the "I can't believe you of anyone..." schpiel with me. Over 15 years of Customer Support Experience here, I don't just cave when receiving a backhanded compliment such as that... oh well live and learn I guess. I will no longer be shipping out of the US48. Sadly once burned twice shy. I got my Radiator from a nice chap in China who shipped it to me from Canada. I've gotten all kinds of stuffs from overseas and never once did I flip out on them. Patience is a virtue an I guess I have too much of it until someone drops trou on my reputation.









That TJ-11 is definitely Baddace though. Majin did an awesome job. Not sure but it look like he's running SLi. Could explain why only 2 monitors. If I hadn't been wasting the better part of my night addressing this PayPal dispute I would have checked. Sorry Maj ole bean if I got the GPU platform incorrect. Not intentionally mind you.









~Ceadder


----------



## superericla

^True words


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Looking good and simple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how do you mount the reservoir though?


Thanks! Its still not secured at all put i was thinking of putting a acryl piece Below it and light it with some leds and glue that res on to it... Or do you have Any tips on securing it?


----------



## kkorky

Hey Europeans(and anyone else i guess







),

i just came across this today (IM NOT ADVERTISING FOR ANYONE, JUST PASSING ON DISCOUNT INFO AS OTHERS HAVE DONE IN THE PAST







)

WCUK *15% off* on *EVERYTHING*. Just enter cyber15 at the end in the basket- ends 27/11/2012

My wife is going to kill me, when she sees the next cc bill









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont buy from WCUK out of principle,they are just a front for Aquatuning,they dont hold any stock of their own.....


No one does fully mate(except companies like XSPC,EK etc the ones that actually manufacturer their own products)

-tell Steve to get his finger out, i looked at ST 1st, but no BF discounts









Anyway, im a simple consumer who shops around, and if i can get a product cheaply whilst also being guaranteed good customer after service, they can have my money








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


LOL!

Quote:


> *BLACK FRIDAY is upon us and FrozenCPU is not messing around!!
> Items are absolutely hammered down BELOW COST to make the best deals available to you! Everything from water cooling items to heatsinks are basically being given away! Check for the words "BLACKFRIDAY" in the product title.
> To add even more savings, all orders over $50 have available free shipping!
> Sale Runs Until Monday at Midnight!
> [/QU*OTE]


I just had a look, unfortunately free shipping is for the US only-i also just spoke to Mark(he was awake at 5 am! excited about BF sale + the baby was keeping him up lol) over at FCPU, who confirmed this.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Hey Europeans(and anyone else i guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ),
> 
> i just came across this today (IM NOT ADVERTISING FOR ANYONE, JUST PASSING ON DISCOUNT INFO AS OTHERS HAVE DONE IN THE PAST
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> WCUK *15% off* on *EVERYTHING*. Just enter cyber15 at the end in the basket- ends 27/11/2012
> 
> My wife is going to kill me, when she sees the next cc bill










...
















~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

FrozenCPU also got "Black Friday"

http://www.frozencpu.com/
Quote:


> *BLACK FRIDAY is upon us and FrozenCPU is not messing around!!
> 
> Items are absolutely hammered down BELOW COST to make the best deals available to you! Everything from water cooling items to heatsinks are basically being given away! Check for the words "BLACKFRIDAY" in the product title.
> 
> To add even more savings, all orders over $50 have available free shipping!
> 
> Sale Runs Until Monday at Midnight!
> 
> [/QU*OTE]


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I dont buy from WCUK out of principle,they are just a front for Aquatuning,they dont hold any stock of their own.....


----------



## jellybeans69

Need advice on case that can fit either NZXT kraken x60 or Thermaltake 2.0 extreeme for friend, i know i won't be able to convince him go custom loop, so just need a help with choosing case that could fit these.


----------



## Fonne

Swiftech MCP655-B

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2128/ex-pmp-27/Swiftech_MCP655-B_12v_Water_Pump_w_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html
Quote:


> *Considerably reduced audible operating noise*: the high pitch frequency of the MCP655 is now eliminated thanks to a new chipset controller.


Is this true ? - Or is it just a normal D5 turned down on performance only ...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> This is why I try to buy from Dazmode or NCIX whenever possible. Customs can be a serious pain.


Don't forget about Aquatuning.us. They are way faster then Dazmode even. Don't ask how but package from Germany to Edmonton is faster then Dazmode to Edmonton.

It boggles my mind. 4 Days from Germany to Edmonton


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> This is why I try to buy from Dazmode or NCIX whenever possible. Customs can be a serious pain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget about Aquatuning.us. They are way faster then Dazmode even. Don't ask how but package from Germany to Edmonton is faster then Dazmode to Edmonton.
> 
> It boggles my mind. 4 Days from Germany to Edmonton
Click to expand...

Probably because the package didn't originate in Germany? Don't know since I have yet to get a package from AT so I've never seen the cancelation stamps but my MDPC shipment took about a week to 10 days. And that was with the stop lights working in their favor.









If that is indeed shipped from Germany that is insanely fast given Customs is involved.









~Ceadder


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Probably because the package didn't originate in Germany? Don't know since I have yet to get a package from AT so I've never seen the cancelation stamps but my MDPC shipment took about a week to 10 days. And that was with the stop lights working in their favor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that is indeed shipped from Germany that is insanely fast given Customs is involved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes it does originate in Cologn Germany iirc. Somehow they have their custom/duty fees included into the shipping price which is awfully low compared to anywhere else. I usually end up paying less then half on customs/duty from when I order from USA. AT.us is now my goto store for water cooling. It seems as though this helps bypass the whole customs crap. I highly recommend to all Canadians and even Americans. I order from FCPU sometimse as well and it ALWAYS takes 2-3 weeks. Even Dazmode takes up to 7 days for me. Canada sucks for water cooling!


----------



## mandrix

Aquatuning does indeed get it to you fast. They don't necessarily get it out the door that fast, _but once they ship it's fast_.
But I paid %7.75 customs tax + $16 for 72 hour shipping. So once you factor that in, not so cheap to ship to US, I think. But in this case I needed items that were out of stock in the usual places I shop and I was in a hurry.
So I guess no complaints although it did take them two days to actually ship, which is a longer wait than I'm used to when buying from US vendors.

Speaking of shipping, seems to me like the USPS tracking/shipping is getting worse and worse. Here in the South some regional package centers have been closed (according to my mailman) with Atlanta now serving as the central hub for a large portion of the area. Is why I often order from PPCs here in Florida despite having to pay %7 tax, but even shipping that short distance is starting to take longer to get from Palm Bay to Orlando to Jacksonville to the "Suwannee River Valley".

Delays/Tracking for items that go through NY customs has become absolutely abysmal as well.


----------



## NewHighScore

I have to ask since I have seen it mentioned several times now. I know it is off topic but........ Is 7% tax considered high in USA?

I wonder if I ordered from PPC's it would go through NY or a different customs to get to Canada.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> FrozenCPU also got "Black Friday"
> http://www.frozencpu.com/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *BLACK FRIDAY is upon us and FrozenCPU is not messing around!!
> Items are absolutely hammered down BELOW COST to make the best deals available to you! Everything from water cooling items to heatsinks are basically being given away! Check for the words "BLACKFRIDAY" in the product title.
> To add even more savings, all orders over $50 have available free shipping!
> Sale Runs Until Monday at Midnight!
> *
Click to expand...

Nice. D5 vario for $60...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17668/ex-pmp-223/Laing_D5_Variable_Speed_Pump_317_GPH_1200_LPH_BLACKFRIDAY.html


----------



## Wizid

OK here is my Rig...(One of them)




CoolMax 1,350 Watt ,
AMD FX 8350 8 Core 4 GHz OC to 5.12 GHz
Crosshair V formula, (Mother Board)
2 Radeon sapphire HD 7970 3gig in crossfire 384bit ddr5
ASUS Xonar Essence STX Virtual 7.1
16gig GSkill Ripjaws ddr3 2133 9-11-10-28
4 Mushkin SSD drives 60gig in Raid 0
(adding one WD 640 gig spare drive)
Watter cooled CPU, North bridge, South bridge and Video cards,
Thermaltake Aqua M5 pump
XSPC Triple 120mm Radiator
CMSTACKER 830 S2 case,
Dell DellTM UltraSharpTM U3011 30"W Monitor" wide screen 100,000 to 1 contrast ratio 2560 x 1600 at 60 Hz
Win 7 Pro 64bit &#8230;.
Logitech G510 keyboard Ver 1
Logitech G500 Gaming Mouse
Belkin n52te Game controler
Logitec G35 headset

Can I join???


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I have to ask since I have seen it mentioned several times now. I know it is off topic but........ Is 7% tax considered high in USA?
> I wonder if I ordered from PPC's it would go through NY or a different customs to get to Canada.


Well 7% is the tax rate in the county I live in in Florida. Some counties are lower. Ordering from PPC's from outside Florida you of course will not pay any Florida tax. For what customs it goes through to get to Canada, I have no idea. Maybe PPC's would have an idea?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> FrozenCPU also got "Black Friday"
> http://www.frozencpu.com/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *BLACK FRIDAY is upon us and FrozenCPU is not messing around!!
> Items are absolutely hammered down BELOW COST to make the best deals available to you! Everything from water cooling items to heatsinks are basically being given away! Check for the words "BLACKFRIDAY" in the product title.
> To add even more savings, all orders over $50 have available free shipping!
> Sale Runs Until Monday at Midnight!
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice. D5 vario for $60...
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17668/ex-pmp-223/Laing_D5_Variable_Speed_Pump_317_GPH_1200_LPH_BLACKFRIDAY.html
Click to expand...

I almost pulled the trigger on 5.... but I can't use them for awhile so I passed.


----------



## zzorro

Hi guy here my new baby monster to be cool







stay tuned ya...


----------



## kcuestag

Sexy block you got there, reason I chose it, looks great.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Immersion cooling...ITX Fishbowl coming soon...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Whats that for B-Negative?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Whats that for B-Negative?


Immersion cooling.
Like this.




Except this doesnt ruin caps like mineral oil.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Immersion cooling...ITX Fishbowl coming soon...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting Properties...5 day Atmospheric Lifetime..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> 3M™ Novec™ 649 Engineered Fluid
> Novec 649 fluid is an advanced heat transfer fluid, balancing customer needs for physical, thermal and electrical properties, with favorable environmental properties. Novec 649 fluid is an effective heat transfer fluid with a boiling point of 49°C. Novec 649 fluid is useful in heat transfer particularly where non-flammability or environmental factors are a consideration.
> Features and Benefits
> 
> Outstanding environmental properties
> Global Warming Potential (GWP) of 1
> Non-ozone depleting
> 5-day atmospheric lifetime
> Large margin of safety in use
> Low viscosity
> High molecular weight
> Low pour point


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Yeah,it needs sealing in VERY well otherwise it will literally vanish without a trace.

This basically the replacement for Flourinert.


----------



## Hanoverfist

If you could capture the Vapor and Condense it , that would be an impressive system..


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Swiftech MCP655-B
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2128/ex-pmp-27/Swiftech_MCP655-B_12v_Water_Pump_w_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html
> Is this true ? - Or is it just a normal D5 turned down on performance only ...


I have 2 of these pumps w/ Speed control in serial running @ full speed and I do not hear them at all


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If you could capture the Vapor and Condense it , that would be an impressive system..


If you seal up the tank well and use a normal rad to cool the fluid,you wont need a condenser. This is a slightly different fluid than the 7000 fluid they use


----------



## Tarnix

"B Negative: From the pipes to the tank."
Silly jokes aside, Very curious to see what you will come up with.









Too bad I got no money for Black friday (impossibility to get money ready in less than two weeks). I saw some epic deals









[Not-So-Subliminal Message] To people that can *either* make blocks or work for a block-making company: The VRM/NB of the ASUS Crosshair V Formula/Z (AMD high-end board) are silly hot. Heat is a limiting factor to OC on this board.[/NSSM]



Spoiler: Usual off-topic stuff I feel like sharing



Meanwhile, I'm considering a custom (because BEPO layout) mechanical keyboard from WASDkeyboards. Strictly has nothing to do with water cooling, aside money and custom~
Hesitating between switches Cherry Brown/Blue/Black <- what's available.


Spoiler: Daf**k is BEPO?!



*Wikipedia:*
The BÉPO layout is an optimized French keyboard layout developed by the BÉPO community,[53] supporting all Latin-based alphabets of the European Union, Greek and Esperanto.[54] It is also designed to ease programming. It is based on ideas from the *Dvorak* and other ergonomic layouts. Typing with it is usually easier due to the high frequency keys being in the home row.


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you seal up the tank well and use a normal rad to cool the fluid,you wont need a condenser. This is a slightly different fluid than the 7000 fluid they use


If you seal it up and your going to boil it (49C boiling point, you must be expecting it to boil on the hot components?) then isn't that going to be a pressurized vessel? I'm thinking the heat will be carried to the top (quickly) by the gas rather than circulate in the fluid.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darren9*
> 
> If you seal it up and your going to boil it (49C boiling point, you must be expecting it to boil on the hot components?) then isn't that going to be a pressurized vessel? I'm thinking the heat will be carried to the top (quickly) by the gas rather than circulate in the fluid.


Thats how it works,boiling is what removes the heat. but its localized and if there is enough expansion room it wont matter.
It wont be filled to the top and air compresses readily. Plus the rad actively cooling the fluid will help.
I just need to find the balance point.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like I murdered a smurf or a blueberry


Nooooooo! //insert random offensive babblings here

/end rant


----------



## SimpleTech

Ordered some stuff from FrozenCPU. Thanks for the heads up guys about the "Black Friday" items.



The radiator is going to be used in this setup:



I know, overkill, but I don't do "simple".


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> "B Negative: From the pipes to the tank."
> Silly jokes aside, Very curious to see what you will come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad I got no money for Black friday (impossibility to get money ready in less than two weeks). I saw some epic deals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Not-So-Subliminal Message] To people that can *either* make blocks or work for a block-making company: The VRM/NB of the ASUS Crosshair V Formula/Z (AMD high-end board) are silly hot. Heat is a limiting factor to OC on this board.[/NSSM]
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Usual off-topic stuff I feel like sharing
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, I'm considering a custom (because BEPO layout) mechanical keyboard from WASDkeyboards. Strictly has nothing to do with water cooling, aside money and custom~
> Hesitating between switches Cherry Brown/Blue/Black <- what's available.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Daf**k is BEPO?!
> 
> 
> 
> *Wikipedia:*
> The BÉPO layout is an optimized French keyboard layout developed by the BÉPO community,[53] supporting all Latin-based alphabets of the European Union, Greek and Esperanto.[54] It is also designed to ease programming. It is based on ideas from the *Dvorak* and other ergonomic layouts. Typing with it is usually easier due to the high frequency keys being in the home row.


EKWB will make one soon and i think the crosshair v formula block works to


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Ordered some stuff from FrozenCPU. Thanks for the heads up guys about the "Black Friday" items.
> 
> The radiator is going to be used in this setup:
> 
> I know, overkill, but I don't do "simple".


too under kill! Moar rads! hahah.







hope the leak testing goes well.


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats how it works,boiling is what removes the heat. but its localized and if there is enough expansion room it wont matter.
> It wont be filled to the top and air compresses readily. Plus the rad actively cooling the fluid will help.
> I just need to find the balance point.


I'm not sure how cooling the fluid will help that much, it'll boil at 49C still and carry it's energy to the top. I've seen some working prototypes and they use a cold plate with heatsink in the gas above the fluid to re-condense it. Wouldn't it be better to use your watercooling on the hot side of a cold plate in the gas - that's where the heat energy ends up. Otherwise it seems like you'd be applying the cooling to the wrong part. As usual though I could be totally wrong.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> too under kill! Moar rads! hahah.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope the leak testing goes well.












Actually when I was putting it together the other night I accidentally cracked the pump housing causing it to jet water from the crack. I fixed it by applying more epoxy and letting it dry overnight. Its been working fine for the past 24 hours. _*crosses fingers*_


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Ok, I'm kind of confused as to what's happening with my loop.

I have: XSPC X20 750 > RX360 >XSPC RayStorm >evga Hydro Copper

And the level within my loop slowly depletes. Not at an alarming rate but noticeable.

I've found no leaks and I cannot, for the life of me, figure it out.


----------



## SimpleTech

Sounds like some air pockets got dislodged. Have you tried shaking your case from side to side?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Normal for the level to go down over time in my experience...


----------



## DatNetherbane

Hi guys, i'm pretty new to watercooling and custom loops, but I was thinking about making my own radiator out of a coil of copper pipe with the coolant running through the coil. Is this worth doing (as in will it make a noticeable difference to temps - I know its not a conventional radiator so i'm not expecting a huge difference) and i'm still thinking about a way to connect the copper pipes to the rest of the loops and which fittings to use for that.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Sounds like some air pockets got dislodged. Have you tried shaking your case from side to side?


Yeah, I do that every time I fill my loop before I run my pc.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*
> 
> Ok, I'm kind of confused as to what's happening with my loop.
> I have: XSPC X20 750 > RX360 >XSPC RayStorm >evga Hydro Copper
> And the level within my loop slowly depletes. Not at an alarming rate but noticeable.
> I've found no leaks and I cannot, for the life of me, figure it out.


lol, maybe just some very bad evaporation rates.

my fish tank looses 5 gallons a day and its only at 78F


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darren9*
> 
> I'm not sure how cooling the fluid will help that much, it'll boil at 49C still and carry it's energy to the top. I've seen some working prototypes and they use a cold plate with heatsink in the gas above the fluid to re-condense it. Wouldn't it be better to use your watercooling on the hot side of a cold plate in the gas - that's where the heat energy ends up. Otherwise it seems like you'd be applying the cooling to the wrong part. As usual though I could be totally wrong.


I have to look more into it,its still very early doors. When i get a log going i will send you a link,seems like you are interested in it and I will be looking for input.
A cheapish way to do this with minimal aggravation would be a water chiller of some sort pumping thru a cold plate...maybe even a rad above the fluid,plenty of condensing surface area there..


----------



## Hamy144

Unfortunately I have not been released by the grasp of plasticiser








But you cant have everything


----------



## superericla

I got some new Durelene in today and it looks a bit different from the Durelene I've gotten in the past. It's a bit more clear and white (compared to the slight blue tint of my last batch) and has a bit of an oily appearance to it. It'll be interesting to see how it holds up against my last batch of Durelene.


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> OK here is my Rig...(One of them)
> 
> 
> CoolMax 1,350 Watt ,
> AMD FX 8350 8 Core 4 GHz OC to 5.12 GHz
> Crosshair V formula, (Mother Board)
> 2 Radeon sapphire HD 7970 3gig in crossfire 384bit ddr5
> ASUS Xonar Essence STX Virtual 7.1
> 16gig GSkill Ripjaws ddr3 2133 9-11-10-28
> 4 Mushkin SSD drives 60gig in Raid 0
> (adding one WD 640 gig spare drive)
> Watter cooled CPU, North bridge, South bridge and Video cards,
> Thermaltake Aqua M5 pump
> XSPC Triple 120mm Radiator
> CMSTACKER 830 S2 case,
> Dell DellTM UltraSharpTM U3011 30"W Monitor" wide screen 100,000 to 1 contrast ratio 2560 x 1600 at 60 Hz
> Win 7 Pro 64bit &#8230;.
> Logitech G510 keyboard Ver 1
> Logitech G500 Gaming Mouse
> Belkin n52te Game controler
> Logitec G35 headset
> 
> Can I join???


I guess not...OH Well...


----------



## superericla

Anyone with a water cooled computer can join, it just takes B NEGATIVE a while to update the op.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Anyone with a water cooled computer can join, it just takes B NEGATIVE a while to update the op.


This. Just gave the curator some time to add you


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have to look more into it,its still very early doors. When i get a log going i will send you a link,seems like you are interested in it and I will be looking for input.
> A cheapish way to do this with minimal aggravation would be a water chiller of some sort pumping thru a cold plate...maybe even a rad above the fluid,plenty of condensing surface area there..


Thanks, I'd like to see someone build one. It's pretty much a 100% from scratch build which is too much for me. I'll just be amazed (and jealous) when you finish it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Anyone with a water cooled computer can join, it just takes B NEGATIVE a while to update the op.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This. Just gave the curator some time to add you.


----------



## Wizid

My first water cooled with just the two X1900. What a mess really...



My second system I did with two HD 5870s. CPU, North bridge and Video cards water cooled. Looks a bit better.


The first two are gone. I have this one as well as the first one posted.
And I think this one counts too. CPU has self contained water cooler. This is my guest rig for company. To play Crysis Wars or just browse the internet...



I have several others but not water cooled. Can I post them as well???


----------



## derickwm

Extreme 11s are coming down in price...go with one of those or my R3E BE? The decisions...pointless decisions at that


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Extreme 11s are coming down in price...go with one of those or my R3E BE? The decisions...pointless decisions at that


Why no RiVE? Cheaper than the Extreme11 and better than the R3E


----------



## Qu1ckset

is the EK EN-Acetal Supreme-HF compatible with LGA 2011?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Extreme 11s are coming down in price...go with one of those or my R3E BE? The decisions...pointless decisions at that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why no RiVE? Cheaper than the Extreme11 and better than the R3E
Click to expand...

I've already owned a RIVE, not a huge fan of the colour scheme, and it's a bit mainstream







spose the Extreme 11 is going to be soon too though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> is the EK EN-Acetal Supreme-HF compatible with LGA 2011?


You can buy a mounting kit for a few bucks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> is the EK EN-Acetal Supreme-HF compatible with LGA 2011?


Yes, but you need the LGA2011 posts/screws. Any cpu block w/ LGA1366 top bracket is compatible but the mounting screws are different. As DerickWM said, you just need to buy them (~$5)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I've already owned a RIVE, not a huge fan of the colour scheme, and it's a bit mainstream
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spose the Extreme 11 is going to be soon too though.


Lol, first person i've heard say they don't like the colors of the Rampage mb. Tbh, it is a bit played out these days as more mb manufacturers are doing this color combo. I would care more about the performance per $. Well, for you, go w/ the Extreme11. They're making a custom block for it so I'm sure you'll get in on that too


----------



## Qu1ckset

Where can i buy these mounting posts/screws?

*Edit*
do they have a true LGA2011 mounting kit as well, i kinda like the true 1155 mounting bracket im using now


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Where can i buy these mounting posts/screws?


here ya go:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_410_1032&products_id=32728

There's also black too:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_410_1032&products_id=32973


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Where can i buy these mounting posts/screws?


https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/block_s_accessories/


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> here ya go:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_410_1032&products_id=32728
> There's also black too:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_410_1032&products_id=32973


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/block_s_accessories/


Thanks Guys +1 Rep


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Where can i buy these mounting posts/screws?
> *Edit*
> do they have a true LGA2011 mounting kit as well, i kinda like the true 1155 mounting bracket im using now


Most LGA2011 MB come w/ a back retention/bracing plate already. The posts screw on to this retention system. I'm sure you can get an LGA1366 backplate but honestly and for the sake of warranty, just use the stock LGA2011 backplate. It does the job as it should like other backplates.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> is the EK EN-Acetal Supreme-HF compatible with LGA 2011?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but you need the LGA2011 posts/screws. Any cpu block w/ LGA1366 top bracket is compatible but the mounting screws are different. As DerickWM said, you just need to buy them (~$5)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I've already owned a RIVE, not a huge fan of the colour scheme, and it's a bit mainstream
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spose the Extreme 11 is going to be soon too though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Lol, first person i've heard say they don't like the colors of the Rampage mb. Tbh, it is a bit played out these days as more mb manufacturers are doing this color combo. I would care more about the performance per $. Well, for you, go w/ the Extreme11. They're making a custom block for it so I'm sure you'll get in on that too
Click to expand...

Hehe really my only reason to choose 2011 over 1366 is for pci-e 3. Not really sure if its worth it or not









I'd probably end up going with the MIPS block for it if i did it, as it's quite cheap.


----------



## mr sadistics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> looks very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... what coolant u using/ what mix of dye u use?


mayhems green pastel mint








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Lol... Win ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... And @mr... I respect the honesty of ur name


jajaja! my wife hate this user name ! jejeje


----------



## Shpongle

Here's my entry in to the Water Cooling Club:



XSPC 750 X2O -> XSPC RS240 -> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block -> XSPC RX120 -> EVGA Hydro Copper Block -> XSPC 750 X2O.

Bitspower compression fittings, Cougar Vortex fans (AP-15's coming in the mail tomorrow), and 1/2" x 5/8" tubing.

Sorry about the bad quality. Cellphone camera ftl...


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe really my only reason to choose 2011 over 1366 is for pci-e 3. Not really sure if its worth it or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd probably end up going with the MIPS block for it if i did it, as it's quite cheap.


Honestly it probably doesn't make that much difference, especially since x58 has so much bandwidth - if you were comparing it to 1156, then absolutely, but compared to a nice x58 board with a 970? it's probably a wash.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I got some new Durelene in today and it looks a bit different from the Durelene I've gotten in the past. It's a bit more clear and white (compared to the slight blue tint of my last batch) and has a bit of an oily appearance to it. It'll be interesting to see how it holds up against my last batch of Durelene.


]

my batch of duralene was clear and clean.

maybe it was turkey grease. heheh.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> ]
> my batch of duralene was clear and clean.
> maybe it was turkey grease. heheh.


Haha, could be. It seems to be a lot more clear than the old durelene I have anyways, so no complaints here.


----------



## Norelec

I seem to be having a issue where i seem to be topping up my res every week with around 10-20ml ok coolant
I have a XSPC duel bay D5 res/pump combo XSPC 1/2ID tube Koolance CPU-370A block and a Black Ice SR1 rad fittings are bits power 1/2" barbs there is no visable leaks.
I have removed the pump/res, cpu bock, rad and the fittings makes no differance it seems to be drinking coolant everything it tight my temps are 36c at idle and about 46-52c under gaming load and prime is 55-60c yes it runs a little hot at times but the fan speed is only 800rpm. what i am asking does anyone know how offen a loop should be topped up.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norelec*
> 
> I seem to be having a issue where i seem to be topping up my res every week with around 10-20ml ok coolant
> I have a XSPC duel bay D5 res/pump combo XSPC 1/2ID tube Koolance CPU-370A block and a Black Ice SR1 rad fittings are bits power 1/2" barbs there is no visable leaks.
> I have removed the pump/res, cpu bock, rad and the fittings makes no differance it seems to be drinking coolant everything it tight my temps are 36c at idle and about 46-52c under gaming load and prime is 55-60c yes it runs a little hot at times but the fan speed is only 800rpm. what i am asking does anyone know how offen a loop should be topped up.


A cooling loop is a closed system. You only lose water / coolant from a leak. If you are needing to keep topping up the coolant, there is just air in the system.

My advise is to keep doing it until one day you find you no longer need to. And do not panic, all seems good.

When I was running my XSPC 750 dual bay res. it took about 2-3 months if I remember correctly to get rid of all the air.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A cooling loop is a closed system. *You only lose water / coolant from a leak. If you are needing to keep topping up the coolant, there is just air in the system.*
> My advise is to keep doing it until one day you find you no longer need to. And do not panic, all seems good.
> When I was running my XSPC 750 dual bay res. it took about 2-3 months if I remember correctly to get rid of all the air.


Incorrect! Most materials are ever so slightly permeable, so water evaporates out through the tubing walls. This is why the H100s and the like all use low permeability tubing. Even a sealed metal system can't contain everything - hydrogen can escape through it.

That said, 10-20 ml/wk is way high for permeable losses. I'm talking more like 10ml/year.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A cooling loop is a closed system. You only lose water / coolant from a leak. If you are needing to keep topping up the coolant, there is just air in the system.
> My advise is to keep doing it until one day you find you no longer need to. And do not panic, all seems good.
> When I was running my XSPC 750 dual bay res. it took about 2-3 months if I remember correctly to get rid of all the air.


Not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Incorrect! Most materials are ever so slightly permeable, so water evaporates out through the tubing walls. This is why the H100s and the like all use low permeability tubing. Even a sealed metal system can't contain everything - hydrogen can escape through it.
> That said, 10-20 ml/wk is way high for permeable losses. I'm talking more like 10ml/year.


EXACTLY and not exactly, To note, most coolants are like 90% distilled water anyways.

So water evaporates... you get the idea.

though 10-20ml a week is kinda scary.

I might understand 10ml per month lol. Especially here in florida.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norelec*
> 
> I seem to be having a issue where i seem to be topping up my res every week with around 10-20ml ok coolant
> I have a XSPC duel bay D5 res/pump combo XSPC 1/2ID tube Koolance CPU-370A block and a Black Ice SR1 rad fittings are bits power 1/2" barbs there is no visable leaks.
> I have removed the pump/res, cpu bock, rad and the fittings makes no differance it seems to be drinking coolant everything it tight my temps are 36c at idle and about 46-52c under gaming load and prime is 55-60c yes it runs a little hot at times but the fan speed is only 800rpm. what i am asking does anyone know how offen a loop should be topped up.


How long has it been going on?
took me 3-4 days to add more coolant in my loop. Nothing has been added ever since


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> PFFT 2 month wait. I have a M8 + pedestal and WC gear sitting here and I can't build it till next August. My stuff goes into a big box on Monday and gets sent to the other side of the world.


Are you moving to Asia? Cant wait to see what you can do with an M8...


----------



## infernoaswen

Hi guys, I been following this thread for quite sometime. I need your expert help on my watercooling questions at this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1330545/advice-needed-for-my-watercooling-setup

Please advice me, thank you very much & I am sorry I dont have any image to post currently only 4 compression fittings if you want to see lol. But I will post pictures of my rig once I get all the parts and its completed.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infernoaswen*
> 
> Hi guys, I been following this thread for quite sometime. I need your expert help on my watercooling questions at this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1330545/advice-needed-for-my-watercooling-setup
> Please advice me, thank you very much & I am sorry I dont have any image to post currently only 4 compression fittings if you want to see lol. But I will post pictures of my rig once I get all the parts and its completed.


Welcome inferno!


----------



## Norelec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A cooling loop is a closed system. You only lose water / coolant from a leak. If you are needing to keep topping up the coolant, there is just air in the system.
> My advise is to keep doing it until one day you find you no longer need to. And do not panic, all seems good.
> When I was running my XSPC 750 dual bay res. it took about 2-3 months if I remember correctly to get rid of all the air.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Incorrect! Most materials are ever so slightly permeable, so water evaporates out through the tubing walls. This is why the H100s and the like all use low permeability tubing. Even a sealed metal system can't contain everything - hydrogen can escape through it.
> That said, 10-20 ml/wk is way high for permeable losses. I'm talking more like 10ml/year.


Thanx I'll keep at it as long as there is no leaks not much else i can do really.
Just had a nice air bubble go round the loop so there is a few more ml/s LOL anyway i have to say Thanx the the OCN Members in this thread as if it wasn't for you guys/girls i would of stuck with the Antec H20 620 i had and this loop even thoe only the cpu for now wipes the floor with my old set up's (had a 120mm rad befor the Black ice SR1 240) so thanx everyone.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norelec*
> 
> Thanx I'll keep at it as long as there is no leaks not much else i can do really.
> Just had a nice air bubble go round the loop so there is a few more ml/s LOL anyway i have to say Thanx the the OCN Members in this thread as if it wasn't for you guys/girls i would of stuck with the Antec H20 620 i had and this loop even thoe only the cpu for now wipes the floor with my old set up's (had a 120mm rad befor the Black ice SR1 240) so thanx everyone.


I know what you mean. Before I joined this site, I had an H80 cooling my CPU. Now I have a full loop with 2 480 rads







. I even have a new cpu and mobo on the way now to boot.


----------



## Fuganater

Final photo sneak peak of my Steampunk'd TJ11.


----------



## mombasa

look at what arrived today











Mod edit: Please do not post personally identifiable information. If you wish to reupload the first 2 images please censor your name and address first.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mombasa*
> 
> look at what arrived today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mod edit: Please do not post personally identifiable information. If you wish to reupload the first 2 images please censor your name and address first.


looks like an Inline res.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mombasa*
> 
> look at what arrived today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mod edit: Please do not post personally identifiable information. If you wish to reupload the first 2 images please censor your name and address first.


nice bubble wrap and paper.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys i just need some feedback on this upgrading im planing on doing, i wanna upgrade my current mobo and cpu to the Asus Rampage IV Gene x79 and the i7 3930k but have some questions about heat, how much hotter is the i7 3930k compared to the i5 2500k ??

Right now my rig has a HW GTX 240 and HW GT240 stealth with ap15s in push/pull at max speed. and here are my temps..
i5 [email protected] 4.6Ghz: Idle 33-34C Load 50-55C ** I do think i might have a tad to much tim, not 100% sure tho **
Gtx [email protected]: idle 22-23C Load 30-33C

I do plan to overclock the 3930k to atleast 4.6Ghz, so do you think my temps will still be fine?


----------



## derickwm

3930ks run a bit hot compared to SB. I think if you get a decent chip you'll be able to hit 4.6 no problem. An average chip may be hitting mid 70s under load, all up to what you're comfortable with.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 3930ks run a bit hot compared to SB. I think if you get a decent chip you'll be able to hit 4.6 no problem. An average chip may be hitting mid 70s under load, all up to what you're comfortable with.


hmm you really thing it would hit 70C on load @4.6Ghz ?? how safe is it to run @70C??, most chips ive ever ran, i kept them around the 55-60C area, ive never owner any of the big chips like 3930k, 980x, etc

I dont really have any more room for more rads internally for my loop, and i don't want any external rads..


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Final photo sneak peak of my Steampunk'd TJ11.


Looks great! +rep


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Final photo sneak peak of my Steampunk'd TJ11.


Wow, looks great!


----------



## 316320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Final photo sneak peak of my Steampunk'd TJ11.


nice job!


----------



## Willi

just got my UV cold cathodes. I really love the looks on those UV Reactive black masterkleer
BTW, by cam sucks and when I'm taking photos, It seems like I develop Parkinson's syndrome, so sorry for the crapness. Also I turned the ISO down so it won't be all grainy and fugly, so the photos ARE dark.







Next step: GPU power extension cables and paracord-sleeving everything.
(trying to develop a heatshrinkless way of doing it, may involve crazy-glue)

Also installing CAD to make the prototypes for the PSU/240 rad space cover, drive bay cover and maybe something to hide that ugly cold cathode that is sitting in the bottom.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> just got my UV cold cathodes. I really love the looks on those UV Reactive black masterkleer
> BTW, by cam sucks and when I'm taking photos, It seems like I develop Parkinson's syndrome, so sorry for the crapness. Also I turned the ISO down so it won't be all grainy and fugly, so the photos ARE dark.
> 
> Next step: GPU power extension cables and paracord-sleeving everything.
> (trying to develop a heatshrinkless way of doing it, may involve crazy-glue)
> Also installing CAD to make the prototypes for the PSU/240 rad space cover, drive bay cover and maybe something to hide that ugly cold cathode that is sitting in the bottom.


Does it look brighter in person? and what color bulbs are you using?


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Does it look brighter in person? and what color bulbs are you using?


They look much brighter in person. I'm using the UV Akasa kit, one on the bottom and one just above the acrylic panel on the top.

Sorry for the grainy photo, but this is closer to what it looks like in person:


The red GPU 6+2 power connectors light up in a VERY bright orange. I plan on switching that to black and using blue/black paracord, depending on how the blue looks like in the UV.

I might also switch to the Samsung memories everyone talks about and get a backplate to hide the ugly blue sapphire PCB.


----------



## Phelan

What cpu block is that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Final photo sneak peak of my Steampunk'd TJ11.


Nice pic Fug.

Nasty little buckle there tho,you going to change that pipe or is it not visible?


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What cpu block is that?


Hey Phelan, I'm a fan of your Red Rover build, congrats on that, it's awesome.

That block is an Enzotech Luna block. It's blue at the moment, but I plan on changing the LED's to UV as well. They blink originally, but I couldn't stand the strobo-effect and opened it up. There is a single jumper you can change on the circuit board to choose between blinking and continuous light (sorry for the bad wording here, vocabulary failed on me...).
It's a good performer in my opinion. Not the very best, but handles the heat from my 1090T nicely and looks awesome.
I plan on switching to an Apogee Drive II sometime soon, and possibly going 1155.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Hey Phelan, I'm a fan of your Red Rover build, congrats on that, it's awesome.
> That block is an Enzotech Luna block. It's blue at the moment, but I plan on changing the LED's to UV as well. They blink originally, but I couldn't stand the strobo-effect and opened it up. There is a single jumper you can change on the circuit board to choose between blinking and continuous light (sorry for the bad wording here, vocabulary failed on me...).
> It's a good performer in my opinion. Not the very best, but handles the heat from my 1090T nicely and looks awesome.
> I plan on switching to an Apogee Drive II sometime soon, and possibly going 1155.


Thanks man! I appreciate it. I love the look yours has. That block looks really sweet. I have and love the AD2, but I'm wondering if it's gonna get in my way when I put blocks on the new mono I just ordered (Rampage IV Gene, with a 3820 at that).


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Final photo sneak peak of my Steampunk'd TJ11.


So slick Fuganater, love it!


----------



## Sixtron




----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm curious. If the board comes with water cooled VRM's why would you put a different block on there?


----------



## Sixtron

People ask for because then you have G1/4 thread .
The original tube has about 5mm inside diameter. Not to much flow then.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I'm curious. If the board comes with water cooled VRM's why would you put a different block on there?


Because the stock block is ugly and looks cheap.


----------



## derickwm

Because MIPS is sexy and I'm sure the people who are actually going to bother wc'ing a motherboard will want to choose their own fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Because the stock block is ugly and looks cheap.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Because MIPS is sexy and I'm sure the people who are actually going to bother wc'ing a motherboard will want to choose their own fittings.


This...all day long.


----------



## NewHighScore

To each their own. I think the stock one looks better then the mips. shoot me.

If it somehow gives a large performance gain then understandable.

fittings though... that's a whole different story. never thought of that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Because MIPS is sexy and I'm sure the people who are actually going to bother wc'ing a motherboard will want to choose their own fittings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> To each their own. I think the stock one looks better then the mips. shoot me.
> 
> If it somehow gives a large performance gain then understandable.
> 
> fittings though... that's a whole different story. never thought of that.


Can only run 3/8" ID tubing with the stock block maybe?

I run 1/2" ID. I'd have to intentionally bottleneck my flow rate to run a stock watercooling block that only has barbs on it.









Normally I would run EK(it's what I use now) but if I were to get that board I would run the Mips. Looks ubersecsy without the crop circles on it. That's really the only difference between it and the CSK block.









~Ceadder


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*


Where did you get that block at if you dont mind me asking? I would love to get one of those


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get that block at if you dont mind me asking? I would love to get one of those
Click to expand...

Either from AquaTuning or Mips-computer.com









*Edit* Thanks for the reminder derick. I always forget the -computer portion of that string.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

*Mips-computer.com or .de if the .com site doesn't have it.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Oh man giving me even more reason to buy that board. Sexy full water block right there.


----------



## Sixtron

Just made this blocks yesterday. They will be in the shop later.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*
> 
> Just made this blocks yesterday. They will be in the shop later.


You work for MIPS Sixtron?


----------



## Sixtron

Yes in construction and production.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*
> 
> Yes in construction and production.


Good for you man,must be nice working for the best block manu out there!









Derick,myself and a few others are confirmed MIPS fans,you bring the pics and i will put them in the database.

Welcome aboard.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Looks great! +rep


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Wow, looks great!


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregg1494*
> 
> nice job!


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nice pic Fug.
> 
> Nasty little buckle there tho,you going to change that pipe or is it not visible?


Its not that much of a buckle so its not effecting anything. And you can't really see it except in that photo.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Its not that much of a buckle so its not effecting anything. And you can't really see it except in that photo.


Photo's have a habit of showing things worse than they are,looks good tho man.


----------



## Sixtron

Thank you B Negative. Which database ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*
> 
> Thank you B Negative. Which database ?


First page of this thread has a spreadsheet for all the complete rigs we have posted in this club.
Bundymania posts parts instead of rigs,i can add you for the same reason.

In other news...

Take one plain looking EK dual top..










Add copper










This piece needs to be hit with a bench buffer before it goes on,i have seen one at a good price so that will be my next purchase for the 'lab'
There will be a matching piece for the pump side too,should look good when its done.


----------



## zzorro

The little update


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> The little update


Looks like you are due a tubing change.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Take one plain looking EK dual top..
> 
> 
> 
> Add copper
> 
> 
> 
> This piece needs to be hit with a bench buffer before it goes on,i have seen one at a good price so that will be my next purchase for the 'lab'
> There will be a matching piece for the pump side too,should look good when its done.


How will you install it on the Pump Block? Glue?

(I really love the look of it, but nickel







)


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Looks like you are due a tubing change.


yes little change the loop..








more pic add..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> How will you install it on the Pump Block? Glue?
> (I really love the look of it, but nickel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I will use silicone sealant,it will hold it down but will allow for it to be removed without damage to the top.


----------



## 40.oz to freedom

Just finished adding an ex 120 into the loop let me know what you guys think.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Take one plain looking EK dual top..
> 
> 
> 
> Add copper
> 
> 
> 
> This piece needs to be hit with a bench buffer before it goes on,i have seen one at a good price so that will be my next purchase for the 'lab'
> There will be a matching piece for the pump side too,should look good when its done.
> 
> 
> 
> How will you install it on the Pump Block? Glue?
> 
> (I really love the look of it, but nickel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

That looks so awesomesauce. I love Copper so much. NOMMY!!!









That is a great idea B.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*
> 
> Yes in construction and production.


Welcome









Be sure to check out my build log, you guys sponsored me some blocks for it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks so awesomesauce. I love Copper so much. NOMMY!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a great idea B.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks man,2mm Copper sound easy to file and shape but it so isnt.....
Should look good with the matching backplate on the pump side


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *40.oz to freedom*
> 
> Just finished adding an ex 120 into the loop let me know what you guys think.


How did you manage to mount it (bottom rad)? Looking good. Cheers.


----------



## Norelec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> How long has it been going on?
> took me 3-4 days to add more coolant in my loop. Nothing has been added ever since


sorry i didn't reply to you in my other reply i missed your post. Loop has been running for around 2mths total and was rebuilt about 1mth ago for a leak check. havn't added anything since my last post a few days ago it hasn't dropped any so looking good for now.


----------



## xlink64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> How did you manage to mount it (bottom rad)? Looking good. Cheers.


Not sure how he did his, but I just used scotch mounting tape for mine =P


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlink64*
> 
> Not sure how he did his, but I just used scotch mounting tape for mine =P


Nice. So basically you cut out the bottom and stick the rad to the chassis using the tape? Thanks.


----------



## 40.oz to freedom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> How did you manage to mount it (bottom rad)? Looking good. Cheers.


I dont have it mounted its a snug fit between the case and the brackets for the hdd cage that i removed so its just sitting on 2 pieces of foam until i can get a new dremel and cut out and hole for it to screw into the case.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixtron*
> 
> Yes in construction and production.


Very nice. How long do you think until will be able to purchase? I can always test your prototype out if you need... you know to make sure it will keep the temps nice and cool


----------



## IronDoq

A few days ago I got my RX360 kit up and running, hopefully I can join the club!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> A few days ago I got my RX360 kit up and running, hopefully I can join the club!


welcome!


----------



## HOTDOGS

This may or may not be the place, but I can't justify making a thread over it. Is a 180mm rad enough for a CPU and GPU loop?


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> This may or may not be the place, but I can't justify making a thread over it. Is a 180mm rad enough for a CPU and GPU loop?


with a higher speed fan, yes it is







... i would use p/p AP181s and i think you should be fine









EDIT: they have epic static presure as well


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> This may or may not be the place, but I can't justify making a thread over it. Is a 180mm rad enough for a CPU and GPU loop?


depends how thick I think lol

AX240 would be ok for cpu and gpu I think

while RS240 supposedly is recommended for a cpu only lol.

or so i've been told.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> This may or may not be the place, but I can't justify making a thread over it. Is a 180mm rad enough for a CPU and GPU loop?


it will do fine for the gear in your sig.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Just ordered 2 rads, I'm getting wet!









Well, my PC is anyways...


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> First page of this thread has a spreadsheet for all the complete rigs we have posted in this club.
> Bundymania posts parts instead of rigs,i can add you for the same reason.
> In other news...
> Take one plain looking EK dual top..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece needs to be hit with a bench buffer before it goes on,i have seen one at a good price so that will be my next purchase for the 'lab'
> There will be a matching piece for the pump side too,should look good when its done.


Very neat and aesthetically pleasing work-great workmanship mate-maybe you should be looking into a side line job


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> This may or may not be the place, but I can't justify making a thread over it. Is a 180mm rad enough for a CPU and GPU loop?


general rule of thumb is 120mm rad per a part you wish to cool.
so cpu+gpu = roughly 240mm rad..although this is bare min. run ability.
if you wish to overclock like i do then you prob want more. at least 360 if you wish to OC.
(i go by 240 for cpu and 120 for anything else after that..my new rig i'm building
i have a Monsta 480 and an RX360..a little overboard but OC everything in new build.
if it's a montsa rad i would say def yes you can get away with 180 only.
otherwise i'd stick on the safe side and get an extra 120 on that..
don't want to put it together to find out it's not working like you want it
to, then you have to dis-assemble and redo loop..not fun..had to
do that for a piece of tube in my rig that would have eventually kinked..
if you do use only the 180 im curious to see your temps though..
keep me posted please








*Just noticed in your rig builder that your planning on using the 2600K.
so you are planning to OC then..def go more than 180..just my opinion though..*


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> This may or may not be the place, but I can't justify making a thread over it. Is a 180mm rad enough for a CPU and GPU loop?


This question is very subjective. What kind of cpu and gpu do you have? Will you be overclocking?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> A few days ago I got my RX360 kit up and running, hopefully I can join the club!


Very nice. Question about your fan orientation though, on the HDD cages, are you trying to pull air away from the cards? What about the fans in the front, are they setup as intake?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Very nice. Question about your fan orientation though, on the HDD cages, are you trying to pull air away from the cards? What about the fans in the front, are they setup as intake?


Good eye mike. I never noticed







You catch some good stuff.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Good eye mike. I never noticed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You catch some good stuff.


staph posting here and moar post on your log







you promise me night shots on your build


----------



## NewHighScore

I did put night shots with the NZXT HUE!

Doh! I don't think I posted in my build log but everywhere else









here. HUE needs to be adjusted to get light onto the top of the mobo.


----------



## mironccr345

I finally blocked my 680. I wasn't too sure about the CSQ block, but figured I'd give it a try. Looks a lot better in person.


I also cleaned up the loop a bit. Cleaned up the tube from the pump to the rad with one of these and a 90 fitting.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## RKTGX95

Any idea what would be the equivalent in performance for the Alphacool XT45 240 rad with Corsair SP120 Quiet in push or p/p ? (also, preferable that it would be around the same price and Not 60mm thick)

OR

when PPCS would re-stoke the XT45 240 rad ?


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I did put night shots with the NZXT HUE!
> Doh! I don't think I posted in my build log but everywhere else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here. HUE needs to be adjusted to get light onto the top of the mobo.


look good mate








slightly sweet corn juice


----------



## B NEGATIVE

CSQ....Reminds me of Lego


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> CSQ....Reminds me of Lego


Lego is a good thing no?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Lego is a good thing no?


Except when you step on it


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Lego is a good thing no?


Lego's only work with other Lego's and I think thats what EK is going for here. If you want something else to match those blocks you better be buying all CSQ stuff because nothing else Ive seen looks right when placed next to those things. Also Im sure its makes for a very easy machining. Probably cheaper as well.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I finally blocked my 680. I wasn't too sure about the CSQ block, but figured I'd give it a try. Looks a lot better in person.
> 
> I also cleaned up the loop a bit. Cleaned up the tube from the pump to the rad with one of these and a 90 fitting.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


New route looks clean, I like it. Can't wait to see the finished result.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> CSQ....Reminds me of Lego


Lego's are fun.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> A few days ago I got my RX360 kit up and running, hopefully I can join the club!


I'm thinking about upgrading to a Switch 810 case, but i'm not sure on how to do my loop yet. This looks pretty neat.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I did put night shots with the NZXT HUE!
> Doh! I don't think I posted in my build log but everywhere else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here. HUE needs to be adjusted to get light onto the top of the mobo.


Looks awesome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Except when you step on it


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> A few days ago I got my RX360 kit up and running, hopefully I can join the club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about upgrading to a Switch 810 case, but i'm not sure on how to do my loop yet. This looks pretty neat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I did put night shots with the NZXT HUE!
> Doh! I don't think I posted in my build log but everywhere else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here. HUE needs to be adjusted to get light onto the top of the mobo.
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Except when you step on it
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

ROFL!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> New route looks clean, I like it. Can't wait to see the finished result.
> Lego's are fun.


Yeah they are! I've been leak testing since last night. I should have it up and running later tonight. I'll post pics once it's finished. The CSQ block looks really good with the the coolant flowing through it.


----------



## Sixtron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Very nice. How long do you think until will be able to purchase? I can always test your prototype out if you need... you know to make sure it will keep the temps nice and cool


Thx. Copper about two weeks and nickel about 4 weeks.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Lego's only work with other Lego's and I think thats what EK is going for here. If you want something else to match those blocks you better be buying all CSQ stuff because nothing else Ive seen looks right when placed next to those things. Also Im sure its makes for a very easy machining. Probably cheaper as well.


i completely agree. i like the CSQ design and it does look good, BUT ONLY IF EVERYTHING IS IN THAT STYLE. a good example to this is *PPCS's 810 build*.

i especially love how EK handled acrylic in their blocks and something that more manufacturers should do is the frosted acrylic SLI bridges. (these look simply marvelous)

but i doubt that it comes down cheaper.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> it will do fine for the gear in your sig.


That's the thing, I'm thinking about changing my rig. I want to use the SG08 and a 180mm rad to cool a 3770k and 680. SO I'm doing some investigative work at the moment before parting with my current rig.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> That's the thing, I'm thinking about changing my rig. I want to use the SG08 and a 180mm rad to cool a 3770k and 680. SO I'm doing some investigative work at the moment before parting with my current rig.


When width and fpi are equal, the 180 rad has more surface area than a 240, and is between that and a 360. If you can fit a Phobya 200, that's the route I'd take, as it's a bit closer to the 360 in surface area than the 180.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Noted, thank you.


----------



## kyismaster

anyone interested in a prodigy? i might sell it soon lol.







and I just got it too. lol

getting a sponsorship from fractal.

define mini, here I come!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i especially love how EK handled acrylic in their blocks and something that more manufacturers should do is the frosted acrylic SLI bridges. (these look simply marvelous)
> but i doubt that it comes down cheaper.


It looks good but it also conjures up the notion that they're trying to prevent a looky inside the blocks







. Just saying







. Thought they would add white acetal since clear plexi shows off better colored/dyed coolant.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It looks good but it also conjures up the notion that they're trying to prevent a looky inside the blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just saying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thought they would add white acetal since clear plexi shows off better colored/dyed coolant.


You are not alone in thinking that Werm.....


----------



## wermad

This is smexxy


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> anyone interested in a prodigy? i might sell it soon lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I just got it too. lol
> getting a sponsorship from fractal.
> define mini, here I come!


Maybe if i could convince my dad to finally change the ugly OEM early 2000's case then maybe. which color is it? (is it modded or something?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It looks good but it also conjures up the notion that they're trying to prevent a looky inside the blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just saying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thought they would add white acetal since clear plexi shows off better colored/dyed coolant.


lol, true. yet they (even if by accident) made a beautiful effect IMO.


----------



## wermad

One more....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New controller in and we are back baby!!


----------



## axipher

That looks amazing


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Maybe if i could convince my dad to finally change the ugly OEM early 2000's case then maybe. which color is it? (is it modded or something?)
> lol, true. yet they (even if by accident) made a beautiful effect IMO.


white, practically brand new, no mods to it yet


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New controller in and we are back baby!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


Looks uber awesome







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> That looks amazing


It almost went up in flames due to Phobyas useless rubbish...failed cable set the controller mosfet on fire.
Lamptron sorted the controller for me,even tho it had been modded on the faceplate.
Phobya just stuck their middle finger up at me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks uber awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Doesnt have that 4th card tho Werm.......


----------



## socketus

Don't tell me you were using one of Phobya's 3pin Y splitter cables !! thats' what I have


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Don't tell me you were using one of Phobya's 3pin Y splitter cables !! thats' what I have


Yup.

It torched 2 controllers,the second one quite violently...


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup.
> It torched 2 controllers,the second one quite violently...


*AWW S**T !!* /runs to check replacement cables

*ADD*: btw, thats a fantastic looking build, deserves its own foto parade/log

So, what did you replace the rubbish cable with ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> *AWW S**T !!* /runs to check replacement cables
> *ADD*: btw, thats a fantastic looking build, deserves its own foto parade/log
> So, what did you replace the rubbish cable with ?


Made it myself then sleeved it.


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Very nice. Question about your fan orientation though, on the HDD cages, are you trying to pull air away from the cards? What about the fans in the front, are they setup as intake?


I have two AP-14s in the very front as intake, and the two bitfenix fans aimed at the cards also as intake. I have the three rad rans (ap-14s) set up as exhaust, and the rear nzxt ran as a filtered intake for more air to travel through the radiator.

Hope that helps!


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> anyone interested in a prodigy? i might sell it soon lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I just got it too. lol
> getting a sponsorship from fractal.
> define mini, here I come!


Hmm very tempting... Have been trying hard to convince the girlfriend to upgrade her PC, and after she looked through a bunch of cases that was the only one she liked. I just need to get her a new MB, as she has a Phenom II 960T (couldn't ask for a better chip... all 6 cores unlock and will hit 3.6Ghz as 6core on air!) sadly stuck in an HP OEM MoBo for now. She's always had a hobby-interest in photography, so as I am teaching her Photoshop, she is starting to realize just how much a difference a faster CPU (via OC-able MB), a good GPU, and an SSD make!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Hmm very tempting... Have been trying hard to convince the girlfriend to upgrade her PC, and after she looked through a bunch of cases that was the only one she liked. I just need to get her a new MB, as she has a Phenom II 960T (couldn't ask for a better chip... all 6 cores unlock and will hit 3.6Ghz as 6core on air!) sadly stuck in an HP OEM MoBo for now. She's always had a hobby-interest in photography, so as I am teaching her Photoshop, she is starting to realize just how much a difference a faster CPU (via OC-able MB), a good GPU, and an SSD make!


O__o you have a cool girlfriend.


----------



## mironccr345

Leak Testing.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Leak Testing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Color is on point....very nice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Doesnt have that 4th card tho Werm.......


when you do, throw in a couple more 1440s in the mix









Surround is killing me right now







. Its the dreaded "quad curse". Meh


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> when you do, throw in a couple more 1440s in the mix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Surround is killing me right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its the dreaded "quad curse". Meh


lol... my build is sitting at 2x 7970s... i have the feeling ill hit 3 or 4 by the time im done


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> lol... my build is sitting at 2x 7970s... i have the feeling ill hit 3 or 4 by the time im done


Diagnosis: upgrade bug! Welcome to the club


----------



## derickwm

I can't setup/play with my quad 7970s till January


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Diagnosis: upgrade bug! Welcome to the club


lol... the bad part is when i say "my build", what i mean is the stuff i still haven't received and is being shipped to me (though i still need some more stuff, including my MH10 before i go for more cards







)


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can't setup/play with my quad 7970s till January


I still can't even setup a SINGLE 7970. Mine was shipped to Sapphire for coil whine RMA at the the beginning of October and is apparently still awaiting service in Taiwan! Makes me think that I might want to buy cards from a different brand in future.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can't setup/play with my quad 7970s till January


lol... and why january? when u finaly move in? i though you were retiring for a bit








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I still can't even setup a SINGLE 7970. Mine was shipped to Sapphire for coil whine RMA at the the beginning of October and is apparently still awaiting service in Taiwan! Makes me think that I might want to buy cards from a different brand in future. :mad


lol... sapphire has PITA RMA service, but they generaly make good cards, so i havent needed to use them much


----------



## 12Cores

Picked up my first full cover wateblock and my temps are ridiculously low, I have yet to hit 45C. Running the 7970 @ 1200/1500 and max temp has been 42C. Better late than never to the full cover party.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Picked up my first full cover wateblock and my temps are ridiculously low, I have yet to hit 45C. Running the 7970 @ 1200/1500 and max temp has been 42C. Better late than never to the full cover party.


what ambients are you ruinning with?!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Picked up my first full cover wateblock and my temps are ridiculously low, I have yet to hit 45C. Running the 7970 @ 1200/1500 and max temp has been 42C. Better late than never to the full cover party.


Hell I would complete a hit to get Universals atm. Stinkin EK and their CSK line really chuffed my plans up.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can't setup/play with my quad 7970s till January
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol... and why january? when u finaly move in? i though you were retiring for a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I still can't even setup a SINGLE 7970. Mine was shipped to Sapphire for coil whine RMA at the the beginning of October and is apparently still awaiting service in Taiwan! Makes me think that I might want to buy cards from a different brand in future. :mad
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> lol... sapphire has PITA RMA service, but they generaly make good cards, so i havent needed to use them much
Click to expand...

Lot retiring...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Picked up my first full cover wateblock and my temps are ridiculously low, I have yet to hit 45C. Running the 7970 @ 1200/1500 and max temp has been 42C. Better late than never to the full cover party.


Weak







my 7970 with full load OC'd stayed at 33C.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lot retiring...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Weak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 7970 with full load OC'd stayed at 33C.


yah... but not everyone can live in space... give him a break









EDIT: been meaning to tell you this for a wile btw... i love your avitar


----------



## suburban78




----------



## u3b3rg33k

B NEGATIVE I would do things to that rig. Things that consume extreme amounts of power.

like 24/7 folding / epic multi screen gaming.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lot retiring...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Weak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 7970 with full load OC'd stayed at 33C.
> 
> 
> 
> yah... but not everyone can live in space... give him a break
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: been meaning to tell you this for a wile btw... i love your avitar
Click to expand...

Hehe


----------



## Car17

Phobya 400mm
4 200mm fans


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> 
> Phobya 400mm
> 4 200mm fans


nice looking build







... next is the GPUs


----------



## BiaBia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> 
> Phobya 400mm
> 4 200mm fans


Hows the performance on that 400? I had the 200 on just my CPU and was less than impressed, but if the 400 is pretty good might be an upgrade in my future


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quick question if I may. Push/pull all the way across my 480 radiator with the far fan blowing air through my PSU (exhaust air never tops 35* c) or shrouds and just push fans?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> B NEGATIVE I would do things to that rig. Things that consume extreme amounts of power.
> like 24/7 folding / epic multi screen gaming.


Playing BF3 at stock raises the CPU temp by 3c......load of 33c...folding pushes it to 36c









Cards max at 36c folding.

SR-2s dont make good 24/7 folders tbh,it heats the board up badly and its not the most stable board either......


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suburban78*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love the three color thing happening a very big


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> *AWW S**T !!* /runs to check replacement cables
> *ADD*: btw, thats a fantastic looking build, deserves its own foto parade/log
> So, what did you replace the rubbish cable with ?


I'm using them in my build... on the exact same Lamptron and mine are working fine - hard to say if B-Neg's bad cables were the fluke or my good ones - but at least some of the splitters were fine.


----------



## H3avyM3tal

How about this loop? Got the new koolance block and switched out the old rasa pump and res for the newer one (uses mcp655). Any tips on arranging the tubing? Gonna add a block for the gtx680 later on and get a new thicker radiator.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I'm using them in my build... on the exact same Lamptron and mine are working fine - hard to say if B-Neg's bad cables were the fluke or my good ones - but at least some of the splitters were fine.


I thought that too....until coolmiester told me about his Phobya 24 pin that was wired wrong....
If that had nuked one of his 2p systems,there would of been hell to pay.

I treat phobya like herpes now,avoid.....


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I treat phobya like herpes now,avoid.....


Oh I thought you meant "Just wrap it in heatshrink and dive on in!"










I actually just checked and I was mistaken... I do NOT have the Phobya branded cables... I used this ModRight one instead. Sorry for the misinformation. I guess I avoided the herpes cables after all.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> 
> Phobya 400mm
> 4 200mm fans
> 
> 
> 
> nice looking build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... next is the GPUs
Click to expand...

If those are like mine (ASUS ENGTX560), the saddest part of it: there's no block for them. (Or I couldn't find one)


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It almost went up in flames due to Phobyas useless rubbish...failed cable set the controller mosfet on fire.
> Lamptron sorted the controller for me,even tho it had been modded on the faceplate.
> Phobya just stuck their middle finger up at me.
> Doesnt have that 4th card tho Werm.......


So in the end it was the splitter cable that caused all the mess. What exactly did the cable do? Short?
I'm trying to wrap my head around this. I make up my own fan harnesses but I'm trying to sort out exactly what happened here.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Oh I thought you meant "Just wrap it in heatshrink and dive on in!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually just checked and I was mistaken... I do NOT have the Phobya branded cables... I used this ModRight one instead. Sorry for the misinformation. I guess I avoided the herpes cables after all.


Modrite hasn't been error free either . .

I had several of the 6 pin to 6+2 pin PCIe adapters wired wrong.

8 pin PCIe connector has 3 lines at +12V and 5 that are Gnd, the modrite had a +12V at the top right location which should have been a Gnd.

It's the 8 pin EPS connector that is 4 and 4, not the 8 pin PCIe .

Fortunately, the PSU sees it as a dead short, and self protects and doesn't start. . . . so no harm done

Actually, all the modrite 6 to 6+2 adapter cables I ever got were all wrong and had to be fixed before I could use them, though it's been a while since I bought one now.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> So in the end it was the splitter cable that caused all the mess. What exactly did the cable do? Short?
> I'm trying to wrap my head around this. I make up my own fan harnesses but I'm trying to sort out exactly what happened here.


You're on the right track

Make your own and never trust anyone's.

They are all woefully cheaply done and scarey when you take them apart and see what they used for wire and how it's crapped together.

It's a good bit of extra work, but the peace of mind is priceless.

Darlene


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> If those are like mine (ASUS ENGTX560), the saddest part of it: there's no block for them. (Or I couldn't find one)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiaBia*
> 
> Hows the performance on that 400? I had the 200 on just my CPU and was less than impressed, but if the 400 is pretty good might be an upgrade in my future


They are actually the HD6850's. They have a block for them on PPC. The block doesn't cool the VRM though so I would have to get something for that. The blocks are 50 each, plus whatever I need to cool the chips with. I'm still debating. Right now I am waiting for a 360 to cool things down more then I can think about the GPU blocks. The 400 is amazing. Idle temps are anywhere from 10c to 12c in a ambient temp from of 23c. Max load has never gotten above 45c. i plan to put the 360 right after the NB + MOSFET block. 360-400-res-pump-cpu-nb.
I can play anything I would like to very comfortably on my GPU's I'm just not sure if it is wise to invest that much in both of them. I will take opinions though!



I think thats how it would turn out if I went with a crossflow radiator so I could have 1 spout at either end.

(Yellow is the new line)

Also could this pump handle all of that?



I could do it this way so the GPUs would be very last and that way I can get all of the heat out at the top so I'm not just heating the inside of the case with the hottest liquid going to the 400mm RAD. this is all Hypothetical BTW!!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> If those are like mine (ASUS ENGTX560), the saddest part of it: there's no block for them. (Or I couldn't find one)


If you look closely you will see he is using a crossfire bridge. My guess is 6850's. I used to have a 6870's but iirc they had a 3rd heatpipe.

Generally water blocks are only made for high end cards not mid and low end. You can always go universal though.


----------



## JoanchimMartin

New EK-CSQ fittings: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings.html?cat=153


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New EK-CSQ fittings: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings.html?cat=153


will they come up with new fittings aswell?
don't think the old fittings would go well with the new adapter IMO


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New EK-CSQ fittings: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings.html?cat=153
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hummm not sure what to say, they kinda look funny, specially the 45s, or is it just me.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Hummm not sure what to say, they kinda look funny, specially the 45s, or is it just me.


I was thinking the exact same thing. Except not kinda funny but really ugly. Not as bad as the monsoon 45's though







But I do rather like the ek 90's


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Leak Testing.


That is one gorgeous hunk of acrylic.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New EK-CSQ fittings: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings.html?cat=153


If I didn't know any better, I'd say this is EK's response to Monsoon's recent fittings release. It would be nice if the EK end cap/plug had an acrylic alternative.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New EK-CSQ fittings: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings.html?cat=153


dont know why they make the fitings like this look's rubbish if you ask me. the old look's so mutch better


----------



## morencyam

Bitspower still has the nicest looking fittings and adapters, IMO. I don't like the protrusions on the new EK or Monsoon fittings at all. They just look too bulky, whereas BP looks more sleek and streamline to me


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New EK-CSQ fittings: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings.html?cat=153
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


eh, I'm still rocking barbs.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Bitspower still has the nicest looking fittings and adapters, IMO. I don't like the protrusions on the new EK or Monsoon fittings at all. They just look too bulky, whereas BP looks more sleek and streamline to me


Agreed, I'm using both Bitspower (90s) and monsoons including the 90s and I prefer working with Bitspower over monsoon. Love the fact that I can have the BPs in any weird combo. I picked up my BP fittings at my local microcenter and they were a good 2 - 3 bucks cheaper than PPCS or Frozen.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Playing BF3 at stock raises the CPU temp by 3c......load of 33c...folding pushes it to 36c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cards max at 36c folding.
> SR-2s dont make good 24/7 folders tbh,it heats the board up badly and *its not the most stable chipset either......*


Fixed that for ya - X58 is like the bastard child of awesome and derp.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Fixed that for ya - X58 is like the bastard child of awesome and derp.


Its not X58,its Intel's 5220 chipset.....

and most of the issues are BIOS based.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Maybe someone can answer this for me: Why are copper blocks on the bottom of grapics cards instead of on the top?

Due to the effects of gravity, you would think the weight of the copper block and the coolant pressing down on the circuits would be more efficient and effective than having it on the bottom of the card. Or, does it have more to do with thermal temperatures with cooler temperatures on the bottom, and the heat disipating from the cover plate on top?

...I'm just curious.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Maybe someone can answer this for me: Why are copper blocks on the bottom of grapics cards instead of on the top?
> Due to the effects of gravity, you would think the weight of the copper block and the coolant pressing down on the circuits would be more efficient and effective than having it on the bottom of the card. Or, does it have more to do with thermal temperatures with cooler temperatures on the bottom, and the heat disipating from the cover plate on top?
> ...I'm just curious.


I think it has more to do with how your set up is (ATX Standards). Mine is a reverse ATX so my block is on the top. Where as a normal setup would have the block facing down.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Maybe someone can answer this for me: Why are copper blocks on the bottom of grapics cards instead of on the top?
> Due to the effects of gravity, you would think the weight of the copper block and the coolant pressing down on the circuits would be more efficient and effective than having it on the bottom of the card. Or, does it have more to do with thermal temperatures with cooler temperatures on the bottom, and the heat disipating from the cover plate on top?
> ...I'm just curious.


The bolt down creates more force than the weight could ever give.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The bolt down creates more force than the weight could ever give.


...Even if it's bolted on the top, wouldn't that added weight be a slight advantage?

I'm not trying to be a pain in the butt, I just want to know why some manufactures put their water blocks on the bottom of the graphics card, while others leave it on top.


----------



## Fonne

Just got a Aqua Computer aquagratiX HD 3870 to a old bench card .... My first fullcover, and know its old, but the look is still really nice I think













Is new fullcover card from Aquacomputer this THIN todag also ?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> ...Even if it's bolted on the top, wouldn't that added weight be a slight advantage?
> I'm not trying to be a pain in the butt, I just want to know why some manufactures put their water blocks on the bottom of the graphics card, while others leave it on top.


What do you mean by leave the waterblock on top? The only time I have ever seen a waterblock on the top of the GPU is when the motherboard is in a reverse ATX layout, in which case the PCI slots are toward the top of the case and the CPU is toward the bottom. Graphics cards are all made so that in a standard layout the heatsink, whether it be a stock air cooler or waterblock, would be on the underside of the GPU.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> ...Even if it's bolted on the top, wouldn't that added weight be a slight advantage?
> I'm not trying to be a pain in the butt, I just want to know why some manufactures put their water blocks on the bottom of the graphics card, while others leave it on top.


If I understand your question correctly, the reason that the waterblock needs to be on the bottom of the card is to make direct contact with the actual GPU chip itself. If it were on the top then it would only be cooling the PCB and everything would go super-critical in a hurry.


----------



## wermad

Blocks are usually designed w/ a less thick bottom "plate" to have a better transfer of heat to the circulating water. The top piece (whether copper, plexi, or acetal) is a bit thicker to allow a better flow of the liquid by using wider/thicker channels or flow-paths..

Most cases are standard atx so the block will hang from gpu's pcb. A reversed atx will position the block on top of the reversed gpu cpb. A Horizon (horizontal) layout will have the weight on vertically on the gpu down through the pcie connector and on to the mb.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Blocks are usually designed w/ a less thick bottom "plate" to have a better transfer of heat to the circulating water. The top piece (whether copper, plexi, or acetal) is a bit thicker to allow a better flow of the liquid by using wider/thicker channels or flow-paths..
> Most cases are standard atx so the block will hang from gpu's pcb. A reversed atx will position the block on top of the reversed gpu cpb. A Horizon (horizontal) layout will have the weight on vertically on the gpu down through the pcie connector and on to the mb.


Makes sense now. Thanks for the explanation.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I need help, just trying to sort out my options for my loop. I am reading conflicting things on EK's instructions, so I will ask here.

Does it matter what direction which port the coolant flow's in and out of, for EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition - Acetal+EN blocks?

I am also using the EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial 3-Slot to link them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I need help, just trying to sort out my options for my loop. I am reading conflicting things on EK's instructions, so I will ask here.
> Does it matter what direction which port the coolant flow's in and out of, for EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition - Acetal+EN blocks?
> I am also using the EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial 3-Slot to link them.


Yes,but the bridge takes care of that,as long as the feed is in the top left and out bottom right .
The instructions in the bridge block box should tell you.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,but the bridge takes care of that,as long as the feed is in the top left and out bottom right .
> The instructions in the bridge block box should tell you.


This. The tops of the Sumpreme HF vga blocks you linked have links to connect them to the an EK bridge. There's different versions of the bridge in terms of slot spacing and you may also need a "blank" (really depends on how many gpus and what slot spacing you'll be using on your mb). Finally, each bridge comes in parallel or seriel (series) flow. There's not much difference so you can't go wrong with either flow pattern. But, the input and output ports will differ depending on which flow pattern you choose in your bridge.


----------



## TheNovice

Quick question guys...









When putting a GPU under water - what happens when there is no fan connected to the fan header on the board?
Will I constantly see error messages/warnings etc?
Should i change "settings" for the card somewhere or....?
(BTW card is a ASUS 56TI TOP)

\M


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Quick question guys...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When putting a GPU under water - what happens when there is no fan connected to the fan header on the board?
> Will I constantly see error messages/warnings etc?
> Should i change "settings" for the card somewhere or....?
> (BTW card is a ASUS 56TI TOP)
> \M


No error messages (unlike the cpu). You just won't see and won't be able to adjust (obviously) the fan speed.


----------



## TheNovice

Quick answer... Thanks! 
+REP

\M


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This. The tops of the Sumpreme HF vga blocks you linked have links to connect them to the an EK bridge. There's different versions of the bridge in terms of slot spacing and you may also need a "blank" (really depends on how many gpus and what slot spacing you'll be using on your mb). Finally, each bridge comes in parallel or seriel (series) flow. There's not much difference so you can't go wrong with either flow pattern. But, the input and output ports will differ depending on which flow pattern you choose in your bridge.


Somewhat in relation to this answer, do the graphics card blocks need to be the same brand as the EK bridge blocks? I've been strongly considering adding another EVGA 590 Hydrocopper to my setup, and I like the look of the new acrylic crop circle blocks. Would I need to scrap the stock Swiftech blocks and get EK's 590 blocks in order to use their bridge, or do EK's bridges haev a universal fitment for most blocks?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New EK-CSQ fittings: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings.html?cat=153
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As a well known fan of the CSQ design, these will not be making it into my build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Somewhat in relation to this answer, do the graphics card blocks need to be the same brand as the EK bridge blocks? I've been strongly considering adding another EVGA 590 Hydrocopper to my setup, and I like the look of the new acrylic crop circle blocks. Would I need to scrap the stock Swiftech blocks and get EK's 590 blocks in order to use their bridge, or do EK's bridges haev a universal fitment for most blocks?


With the EK bridges, it has to be the same blocks (exception of one or two blocks) to use the same bridge design/sstem bridges. Ie you can't use a csq block on a non csq bridge.

For the 590, (I had this setup w/ the bridge), you need the fc-590 blocks, two "geforce" links (and maybe a blank), and the bridge (non csq) you want. I don't think EK makes a csq 590 block.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

They for sure don't. Pretty sure they don't even make fermi blocks anymore


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I need help, just trying to sort out my options for my loop. I am reading conflicting things on EK's instructions, so I will ask here.
> Does it matter what direction which port the coolant flow's in and out of, for EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge Edition - Acetal+EN blocks?
> I am also using the EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial 3-Slot to link them.


Hey GN from what i can see whichever one works for your loop. I'm sad to see it's a serial connection as opposed to a parralell one supposed to be a few degrees cooler.



http://www.ekwb.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/e/k/ek-fc-bridge-serial_2_1.jpg


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> what ambients are you ruinning with?!


20C ambient, I have pushed the volts up to 1.25 in order to run 1,200mhz stable, I actually hit 44C today while playing BF3 for an extended period of time. Before I installed the waterblock the card was hitting 80C plus, so I thought that even under water this thing would be in the mid 50's. I still have a lot of headroom left I have no issue running this thing a 1.3v I just don't need that kind of performance @ 1080p. I think I am going to need a 1440p monitor to justify this purchase, my 6870's were more than enough for 1080p gaming.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> *AWW S**T !!* /runs to check replacement cables
> *ADD*: btw, thats a fantastic looking build, deserves its own foto parade/log
> So, what did you replace the rubbish cable with ?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using them in my build... on the exact same Lamptron and mine are working fine - hard to say if B-Neg's bad cables were the fluke or my good ones - but at least some of the splitters were fine.
Click to expand...

I actually have a Phobya 3 Y splitter and mine is working just fine. Of course I never buy the pre-sleeved cables. Much rather do the work myself. Besides you have to be able to trust that the company doing the work did it correctly. I'm OCD, I cannot blindly trust any company with connections that were made by the lowest bidder. That's like trusting a house to an unlicensed Electrician because he was the cheapest option to go with. It doesn't take a lot of knowledge to trace colored connections to make sure they are properly laid out and put together.









So whenever possible go with the unsleeved cable. Sleeving isn't that expensive and not that hard to do either.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> New EK-CSQ fittings: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings.html?cat=153
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will they come up with new fittings aswell?
> don't think the old fittings would go well with the new adapter IMO
Click to expand...

Those fittings will work just fine with the Previous EK Comps. I just sold mine but those would look sharp under the Black Nickel comps that I owned.

Although I really am not too worried whether they say EK on them. I am sure they would have been just fine without the logo. Even for the CSQ blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## NostraD

Honestly, they remind me of the Monsoon angled fittings. Not a bad thing, but they do.


----------



## ginger_nuts

The reason I ask is this is my current attempt at case layout:



My thoughts about loop cycle are:

Res.>pump>RX240>EX240>CPU>GPU's>Res.

This I feel is about the only way of doing it, any other way I seem to have things blocking it.

Two other proposals from other members are:

RES > PUMP > RS240 (or EX240) > CPU > EX240 (or RS240) > GPUs > RES

&

res- pump - skinny 240- gpu - cpu - big 240 - res.

Any other proposal's would be greatly appreciated


----------



## driftingforlife

You want the pump UNDER the res, not above it.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Modrite hasn't been error free either . .
> I had several of the 6 pin to 6+2 pin PCIe adapters wired wrong.
> 8 pin PCIe connector has 3 lines at +12V and 5 that are Gnd, the modrite had a +12V at the top right location which should have been a Gnd.
> It's the 8 pin EPS connector that is 4 and 4, not the 8 pin PCIe .
> Fortunately, the PSU sees it as a dead short, and self protects and doesn't start. . . . so no harm done
> Actually, all the modrite 6 to 6+2 adapter cables I ever got were all wrong and had to be fixed before I could use them, though it's been a while since I bought one now.
> Darlene


After reading a few stories of extensions being wired wrong I must mention my NZXT 6+2 pins were also wired backwards. Took me quite some time to figure out what was going on. Luckily they didnt damage my 7970s just kept instantly shutting my machine off.


----------



## D-Worx

New radiator setup. Git the air out alot better and took almost off the hose length compared to the old setup, where the rad was on top of the Armor Revo case.

Next step would be getting some angled hose connectors, to fit the reservoir on top of the case to get it even cooler and speed up the de-airing.


----------



## jokrik

Get some LED in the CPU block led slot and it would look even better







and start thinking to get that GPU under water
by mounting the res on top meaning on top of the case?


----------



## jokrik

Double Post


----------



## D-Worx

Yes i'm planning to throw it on top of the case. I have one double colored coolant thing in my mind too, but we need to mill some alloyt to make it happen =D

The GPU is the next on the line when i get the extra cash. I'm also on my way to make the EK kit a little better in some places, but we'll see what happens.

How would you light up the block? I know i could fit a led to the side of it, but is it really possible to make a slot/hole for a led...Not sure if there is enough material


----------



## jokrik

Well the EK supremacy block has two built in 3mm led slot on the side , check my build photos
you can just slide a 3mm led on each slot, sleeve the cable to make it neat ;P
welcome to the addictive world of water cooling, trust me its bad for your wallet


----------



## D-Worx

My Supremacy has no led holes that's for sure.

I think this is not too expensive these days really. I paid 270€ for the H3O 360 HFX here in Finland and i think it's pretty well priced.

The thing is that you get hungry and visions fly all the time


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-Worx*
> 
> New radiator setup. Git the air out alot better and took almost off the hose length compared to the old setup, where the rad was on top of the Armor Revo case.
> Next step would be getting some angled hose connectors, to fit the reservoir on top of the case to get it even cooler and speed up the de-airing.


niceeeeee blueeeee


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-Worx*
> 
> My Supremacy has no led holes that's for sure.
> I think this is not too expensive these days really. I paid 270€ for the H3O 360 HFX here in Finland and i think it's pretty well priced.
> The thing is that you get hungry and visions fly all the time


Cant clearly see your CPU block since the blue lighting
You are using THIS right? (same as mine, and I slide 2x3mm led in it)
check again, its on the opposite side of the logo
Check HERE , scroll down on the "Additional Information"
It says "Prepared for LED Diode 3mm"


----------



## D-Worx

Oh right i found them. Didn't even notice them while fitting the block. Need to get some diods then


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-Worx*
> 
> New radiator setup. Git the air out alot better and took almost off the hose length compared to the old setup, where the rad was on top of the Armor Revo case.
> Next step would be getting some angled hose connectors, to fit the reservoir on top of the case to get it even cooler and speed up the de-airing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


great build. i think you have in that case some more potential. you could try and fit a 200mm rad on the top (though depends on how much space you have there, not to mention that you'd have to replace that fan) or with minimal to maybe non modding fit in the top another 360 rad (that is not too thick). also, if i'm not mistaken there is a fan mount in the bottom. you could possibly place there one of those 80mm monsta rads.

Especially love how the blue came out in your loop.


----------



## D-Worx

I have no freaking idea how Thermaltake would fit a top mount radiator inside the case as advertised. At least with my setup, it is totally out of the question. The original 200mm top mount fan barely fits there without touching the motherboard and stuff. I think i have like 3cm max between the board and the fan.

The only way to fit a top mount rad would be outside the case as the one i have now was installed previously,

I'm planning to make a whole new loop for the GPU and maybe fit a chipset block with it. The Asrock 970 Extreme 4 seems to have pretty hot NB sink when touched.

One possibility is to hook them right after the cpu and just use the current res and pump to run the whole lot, but I'd like to add the second rad and another coolant color to the system.

The case is very nice. I'm sure I can even go ahead and hide the pumps to the device bays with not a lot of effort.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-Worx*
> 
> I have no freaking idea how Thermaltake would fit a top mount radiator inside the case as advertised. At least with my setup, it is totally out of the question. The original 200mm top mount fan barely fits there without touching the motherboard and stuff. I think i have like 3cm max between the board and the fan.
> The only way to fit a top mount rad would be outside the case as the one i have now was installed previously,
> I'm planning to make a whole new loop for the GPU and maybe fit a chipset block with it. The Asrock 970 Extreme 4 seems to have pretty hot NB sink when touched.
> One possibility is to hook them right after the cpu and just use the current res and pump to run the whole lot, but I'd like to add the second rad and another coolant color to the system.
> The case is very nice. I'm sure I can even go ahead and hide the pumps to the device bays with not a lot of effort.


you could still try to fit the *120 monsta rad* in the bottom. (if you relocate the pump)

you could also consider buying one of those rad fan shrouds that would give you the option to mount the rad internally and mount fans outside the case under the shroud (with minimal modding).

or you could consider removing that hdd cage and mounting a front (200) rad.


----------



## mironccr345

Working on a little something.

NZXT Source 220.



Spoiler: EX360


----------



## D-Worx

I'm on my way to make my own shrouds. The ones I have seen for sale are looking pretty darn dull.

Removing the HDD cage is a harder one as i'm running 4 HHD's at the moment. There is more space above them, where one can fit the 5.25 and 3.5 units. I have only the dvd and the fan controller fitted, so i have two full 5.25 trays empty!

Ok, why not to install a bay res.? Well i was thinking about it, but somehow i see my self getting rid of the 150 ek res and fit 2x250 reservoirs on top of the case









Then i could fit the pups to those empty 5.25 bays and hide them with the cables and forget.

Would one 120 rad be big enough for the gpu and chipset blocks?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Working on a little something.
> NZXT Source 220.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: EX360


Looking good.


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Working on a little something.
> NZXT Source 220.






Look's like you're filling that thing to the max







hehe. Very nice


----------



## Plutonium10

I installed my rad today with 3 AP-15s on it pushing air out the top of the case. I actually find the tone of the AP-15s to be kind of annoying even at 1000 rpm because they make an irritating whistling noise that really grabs my attention. Tonight I'll play around with them and see if it's only one of the fans that does it or all of them. I know some people have had this problem before so if it's all of them then I might even sell them and buy something else.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Working on a little something.
> NZXT Source 220.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: EX360


I think it needs mOar rads








But looking good so far, hope that pump/res setup works out good for ya.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> As a well known fan of the CSQ design, these will not be making it into my build.


I liked them when I first saw them but afterwards they seem a bit to stubby looking, like when you cut a tree down there's still a stump sticking out of the ground. No body beats Bitspower fittings!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I liked them when I first saw them but afterwards they seem a bit to stubby looking, like when you cut a tree down *there's still a stump sticking out of the ground*. No body beats Bitspower fittings!


Could have not been described in any better words.


----------



## Michalius

That really is spot on!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Agree as well, BP fittings are simple and timeless.


----------



## js593

MAN... Looking at some of these rigs... I hope one day i could get sponsored as well. my Stryker case would pose a pretty sweet cooling unit after a few mods are done...


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Agree as well, BP fittings are simple and timeless.


After using them in my build I would totally agree.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

here is my contribution guys, add me to the club

Hardware:
Intel i7 3770k
Asus Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
16gb Corsair Dominator 1866mhz
Asus GTX 680 Direct CUii
Cooler Master Silent Gold 850W
2x Corsair Force GT 120gb SATA Solid State Drives

Cooling:
EK Supremacy CPU Waterblock
EK CoolStream RAD XTX 240
EK DCP 4.0 Pump
EK Multioption RES X2 150
EK PSC Fittings 10mm
Masterkleer 12 7/9 Tubing
PrimoChill Blood Red Coolant


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> here is my contribution guys, add me to the club
> Hardware:
> Intel i7 3770k
> Asus Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
> 16gb Corsair Dominator 1866mhz
> Asus GTX 680 Direct CUii
> Cooler Master Silent Gold 850W
> 2x Corsair Force GT 120gb SATA Solid State Drives
> Cooling:
> EK Supremacy CPU Waterblock
> EK CoolStream RAD XTX 240
> EK DCP 4.0 Pump
> EK Multioption RES X2 150
> EK PSC Fittings 10mm
> Masterkleer 12 7/9 Tubing
> PrimoChill Blood Red Coolant
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love it, very well done. especially the red accents. (that ram fits anything)

could you tell me if you lok outside the case from the window, how well do you see the CSQ of the water block?


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Love it, very well done. especially the red accents. (that ram fits anything)
> could you tell me if you lok outside the case from the window, how well do you see the CSQ of the water block?


thanks alot! you can see the block pretty well. we dont currently have any lights installed in the system, but the block has places for leds. ill post pics as soon as we get them in.

thanks again!


----------



## jassilamba

I'm gonna need to put some LED spot lights to bring my EK full nickel block in view.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> thanks alot! you can see the block pretty well. we dont currently have any lights installed in the system, but the block has places for leds. ill post pics as soon as we get them in.
> thanks again!


what i meant is can you see the CSQ style of the block (the circles on the plexi) well from a distance (i.e. outside the case). because the block is pretty good but it's crop circles style would ruin the style i'm seeking if it's very noticeable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I'm gonna need to put some LED spot lights to bring my EK full nickel block in view.


does the CSQ ruin, fit or just unnoticeable?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> what i meant is can you see the CSQ style of the block (the circles on the plexi) well from a distance (i.e. outside the case). because the block is pretty good but it's crop circles style would ruin the style i'm seeking if it's very noticeable.
> does the CSQ ruin, fit or just unnoticeable?


Personally when I look at it you can barely see the circles. Can you tell em easily on the mobo block? I think a CSQ GPU block/backplate would be something that would jump out a lot.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Personally when I look at it you can barely see the circles. Can you tell em easily on the mobo block? I think a CSQ GPU block/backplate would be something that would jump out a lot.


at second look, it is barely noticeable on the MoBo block (a bit more on the chipset). and i guess that if you have colored coolant on the cpu block it is barely noticeable too right?

But the gpu block is a bit more than noticeable circles, especially with the backplate. (which is a bit sad since the plexi links are very beautiful)


----------



## RKTGX95

double


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> at second look, it is barely noticeable on the MoBo block (a bit more on the chipset). and i guess that if you have colored coolant on the cpu block it is barely noticeable too right?
> But the gpu block is a bit more than noticeable circles, especially with the backplate. (which is a bit sad since the plexi links are very beautiful)


Well my block is pure nickel so dye is not gonna make any difference. And as much as I like the CSQ in discrete quantities, I could not use an EK gpu block and ended up getting a heatkiller for my 690.

Edit:

If the cake is the spy, I say let the doubles fly. (for just this time)


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Well my block is pure nickel so dye is not gonna make any difference. And as much as I like the CSQ in discrete quantities, I could not use an EK gpu block and ended up getting a heatkiller for my 690.
> Edit:
> If the cake is the spy, I say let the doubles fly. (for just this time)


i agree, too much is TOO much. (though the clear acrylic with red coolant and red dye would be great, but at the same price is the Bitspower block which also has clear and even smoked black)

And finally, someone who knows. (he could be in this very thread.it could be you, it could be me, it could even be...)


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

personally i really like the new CSQ designs. kinda took a little while to get used to it, but i think it looks awesome. you cant really see the circles that well from outside the case unless you look for em.

here is my EK Supreme LTX block. I like the Supremacy way better, but i think this block would be better in nickel


----------



## Willi

I don't really like the crop circle design.. but then again, it's EK trying to differentiate from the other manufacturers.
But in my opinion, nothing beats a MIPS block.
and also they FINALLY made a sexy-looking cooler for AMD cpu's:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> personally i really like the new CSQ designs. kinda took a little while to get used to it, but i think it looks awesome. you cant really see the circles that well from outside the case unless you look for em.
> 
> here is my EK Supreme LTX block. I like the Supremacy way better, but i think this block would be better in nickel


I like your build(very clean) but Circles are









Not too bad when you're building from fresh no blocks in the system I guess but for enthusiasts working with budget constraints I think that it's short sighted to finish a run after less than one year and change completely to another. People get lost in the wash and don't forget easily considering the other problems EK has had in the past.









~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

hey guys, thought i'd share with you the latest photo from my new build "Nazara"

this is what it looks like at the moment:



please check out my build log in my signature, really excited about how it's turning out!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I installed my rad today with 3 AP-15s on it pushing air out the top of the case. I actually find the tone of the AP-15s to be kind of annoying even at 1000 rpm because they make an irritating whistling noise that really grabs my attention. Tonight I'll play around with them and see if it's only one of the fans that does it or all of them. I know some people have had this problem before so if it's all of them then I might even sell them and buy something else.


Yes I've been having the same problem, I have to use fan controller to get rid of the whistling noise. But the performance for the AP-15 is just one of the best imo
else get a noiseblocker/cougar/bitfenix fans, heard enermax performs silently aswell
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like your build(very clean) but Circles are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not too bad when you're building from fresh no blocks in the system I guess but for enthusiasts working with budget constraints I think that it's short sighted to finish a run after less than one year and change completely to another. People get lost in the wash and don't forget easily considering the other problems EK has had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Honestly, I even added another GPU just because I LOVE how the EK bridge looks








people who doesnt like the CSQ, seems like really really really hate them. But people like me, love it to death


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> I don't really like the crop circle design.. but then again, it's EK trying to differentiate from the other manufacturers.
> But in my opinion, nothing beats a MIPS block.
> and also they FINALLY made a sexy-looking cooler for AMD cpu's:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And my eye is telling me that the MIPS block pictured it hideous.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> I don't really like the crop circle design.. but then again, it's EK trying to differentiate from the other manufacturers.
> But in my opinion, nothing beats a MIPS block.
> and also they FINALLY made a sexy-looking cooler for AMD cpu's:


AGREED!!! I am currently in the midst of a fierce battle with my wallet over whether or not to plunk down the cash for one of their Nickel/POM Black Rampage IV Extreme Motherboard Block Sets.... It's a dead heat, but I think I may win


----------



## SimpleTech

My three 7970's.


----------



## Wizid

I really like the duel CPU setup. Now that is something I always wanted. Does anyone have any ideas on how to water cool this one? Would they make a block for that? The one on the right is an AMD and it does work. One of the first duel CPU setups. I was thinking about setting it up just for Doom and Wolfensteen....What do you think?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Yes I've been having the same problem, I have to use fan controller to get rid of the whistling noise. But the performance for the AP-15 is just one of the best imo
> else get a noiseblocker/cougar/bitfenix fans, heard enermax performs silently aswell


Yeah, if I can't sort this out I have been thinking of trying Corsair SP120 or Noiseblocker E-loop. I suppose it's possible that the noise is being caused by air blowing across the rad and the fan grills on top of my 800D, although that's not what it sounds like. I'm too busy to take the rad out right now but I have another AP-15 being shipped to me right now along with some other stuff for my build, so when it gets here I'll plug it in and run it outside of the case to see if it makes a similar whine.


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> My three 7970's.


That looks sweet. But doesn't the coolant go in thru the front and out the back? (or visa/versa) It looks like both front hole are blocked off.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> I really like the duel CPU setup. Now that is something I always wanted. Does anyone have any ideas on how to water cool this one? Would they make a block for that? The one on the right is an AMD and it does work. One of the first duel CPU setups. I was thinking about setting it up just for Doom and Wolfensteen....What do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are there any sort of mounting holes in the CPU riser? If not you are going to be SOL. If there are holes you could always just use zipties. That is how I mounted my blocks back in the day.


----------



## mandrix

Don't really understand about noise from AP15's. I have 18 in my rig and they are pretty darn quiet. All I can hear is the air moving. For normal use they stay under volted to around 1125 rpm.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> That looks sweet. But doesn't the coolant go in thru the front and out the back? (or visa/versa) It looks like both front hole are blocked off.


Thanks. What you're seeing is the end or bottom portion. The inlet/outlet will be on the first card.

I got this beastly rad today...


----------



## SimpleTech

-Edit- Double Post


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Don't really understand about noise from AP15's. I have 18 in my rig and they are pretty darn quiet. All I can hear is the air moving. For normal use they stay under volted to around 1125 rpm.


I have 3 ap15 at ~800rpm and I can still hear the motor buzz sound...


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Just got my RAM today.
now to rip off those heatsinks
and apply my overkill...oops i mean waterblocks..


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> I really like the duel CPU setup. Now that is something I always wanted. Does anyone have any ideas on how to water cool this one? Would they make a block for that? The one on the right is an AMD and it does work. One of the first duel CPU setups. I was thinking about setting it up just for Doom and Wolfensteen....What do you think?


Wizid what's your 3mark 11 performance score with your rig?


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> I really like the duel CPU setup. Now that is something I always wanted. Does anyone have any ideas on how to water cool this one? Would they make a block for that? The one on the right is an AMD and it does work. One of the first duel CPU setups. I was thinking about setting it up just for Doom and Wolfensteen....What do you think?


Wizid what's your 3mark 11 performance score with your rig?


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The reason I ask is this is my current attempt at case layout:
> 
> My thoughts about loop cycle are:
> Res.>pump>RX240>EX240>CPU>GPU's>Res.
> This I feel is about the only way of doing it, any other way I seem to have things blocking it.
> Two other proposals from other members are:
> RES > PUMP > RS240 (or EX240) > CPU > EX240 (or RS240) > GPUs > RES
> &
> res- pump - skinny 240- gpu - cpu - big 240 - res.
> Any other proposal's would be greatly appreciated


does that help you at all mate?



Edit: you might need/look better with 90* fittings i've marked in yellow O


----------



## Qu1ckset

*Before:*


*After:*



i was thirsty so i was drinking the left over water in the rez


----------



## Wizid

Post 32685 on page 3269 are some specs including 3dmark 2011..


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> I don't really like the crop circle design.. but then again, it's EK trying to differentiate from the other manufacturers.
> But in my opinion, nothing beats a MIPS block.
> and also they FINALLY made a sexy-looking cooler for AMD cpu's:


Agreed! Hands down the best looking AMD block EVER.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> I have 3 ap15 at ~800rpm and I can still hear the motor buzz sound...


Really? How close is the system to your ears? And is your case completely open at the time? I went with the slower fans - AP13s - (still don't hit over 33C on my setup under full load) - but I keep mine right at ~800rpm and I can't hear them at all. When I was leak testing I could definitely hear the pump's whine (MCP35X) but I can't even hear the air moving through my 12 fans unless I put my ears right up next to the case at 800rpm. And I have some high-freq attenuation issues so it would really bug me (for example even high-end CRTs are too distracting for me because I can hear the power supplies in them).


----------



## RKTGX95

Would anyone recommend using the Bitspower ICE black acrylic block with red coolant and white or red LEDs to great a beautiful red glow effect? or just clear top? (or the raystorm is enough?)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

XSPC Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7 Board Block



I like this block!


----------



## driftingforlife

That is nice!


----------



## Willhemmens

Me too. Makes me want to get a UP7 even more.


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Really? How close is the system to your ears? And is your case completely open at the time? I went with the slower fans - AP13s - (still don't hit over 33C on my setup under full load) - but I keep mine right at ~800rpm and I can't hear them at all. When I was leak testing I could definitely hear the pump's whine (MCP35X) but I can't even hear the air moving through my 12 fans unless I put my ears right up next to the case at 800rpm. And I have some high-freq attenuation issues so it would really bug me (for example even high-end CRTs are too distracting for me because I can hear the power supplies in them).


Hello,
Yes







My rig is 1m away from me (on the floor) and the case is completely open. I have D5 at 5, 4x gelid wing at ~800 and they are dead silent the only noise is from ap15 and my hdd`s. Maybe my ap15 are broken/defect I dont know...


----------



## Fonne

*Monsoon Rotary Angled and Lightport Fittings Review*

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2012/11/29/monsoon-rotary-angled-and-lightport-fitting/1








Quote:


> We tried using a lighter colour and watered it down, which did allow a slight glow at the top, but the best results will likely be seen on a long exposure photograph. White LEDs would probably be the best option too, as would using a red dye rather than pastel coolant. Unfortunately, we didn't have any of this to hand.


----------



## Wizid

My water blocks..


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> My water blocks..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, you've just ordered them? Be sure to share some pics when they arrive and are installed.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Would anyone recommend using the Bitspower ICE black acrylic block with red coolant and white or red LEDs to great a beautiful red glow effect? or just clear top? (or the raystorm is enough?)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


no input?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> no input?


That would look really good, are you planning to put your mobo under water too??

Will go great with the Black and Red...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> no input?


I really like their acrylic blocks...and the variety of colors they come in. I would say that block, with white red coolant and red LEDs....would give a very nice effect.


----------



## Wizid

I posted this quite a ways back....


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> I posted this quite a ways back....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very cool....I'm not really a fan of a side panel full of fans though, kind of clutters the build IMO


----------



## Swisser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> I have 3 ap15 at ~800rpm and I can still hear the motor buzz sound...


Are you using a fan controller?


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> here is my contribution guys, add me to the club
> Hardware:
> Intel i7 3770k
> Asus Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
> 16gb Corsair Dominator 1866mhz
> Asus GTX 680 Direct CUii
> Cooler Master Silent Gold 850W
> 2x Corsair Force GT 120gb SATA Solid State Drives
> Cooling:
> EK Supremacy CPU Waterblock
> EK CoolStream RAD XTX 240
> EK DCP 4.0 Pump
> EK Multioption RES X2 150
> EK PSC Fittings 10mm
> Masterkleer 12 7/9 Tubing
> PrimoChill Blood Red Coolant






That's a clean looking build. Are you using PrimoChill Blood Red?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Just got my RAM today.
> now to rip off those heatsinks
> and apply my overkill...oops i mean waterblocks..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, 1866mhz?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> no input?


Those are some nice blocks. I picked one up for a buddies build and I'll be running some green coolant through it. I would go with @PCmodderMichael's suggestions, but instead of red LED's, I would go white to really highlight the red coolant.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> That would look really good, are you planning to put your mobo under water too??
> Will go great with the Black and Red...


yes, i will use Koolance hose clamps and actually use the ref asus block. (even though MANY say not to







i find it too god looking to replace it with EK's block and if i'm WC why not include the block?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I really like their acrylic blocks...and the variety of colors they come in. I would say that block, with white red coolant and red LEDs....would give a very nice effect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Those are some nice blocks. I picked one up for a buddies build and I'll be running some green coolant through it. I would go with @PCmodderMichael's suggestions, but instead of red LED's, I would go white to really highlight the red coolant.


yeah, i think that the smoked ice black acrylic version would lok amazing with white LEDs and red coolant (Mayhem's red dye).
any possible pic that could demonstrate such an effect or just a vague idea of the glow?

Edit:
Unfortunately, the ice black (black smoked) acrylic version doesn't have LED holes







(as seen *here* )
So i'd have to choose between the black smoked version without LEDs, The clear acrylic version with LEDs or just settle with the XSPC Raystorm which is equally impressive to the BP blocks.

any suggestions ?

On a different note, what would you say are the things which are absolutely essential and a must for a first time Water Cooler? (like a tube cutter etc)


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> On a different note, what would you say are the things which are absolutely essential and a must for a first time Water Cooler? (like a tube cutter etc)


Best $10 i ever spent


----------



## MiiX

Whats the best tubing? :S I was going for Durelene but in my country there are no compression fittings for the Durelene sizes :\ So i can choose from this: Primoflex or Tygon, both ID1/2 OD3/4 Clear


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Whats the best tubing? :S I was going for Durelene but in my country there are no compression fittings for the Durelene sizes :\ So i can choose from this: Primoflex or Tygon, both ID1/2 OD3/4 Clear


What Tygon it is? If R3603 or B-44-4X I'd pass. I'd also definitely pass on Primoflex. Clearflex is supposedly a good alternative.


----------



## Rickles

I ordered some norprene this week, as mayhems purple / Uv pink dyes tubes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Best $10 i ever spent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Best $4 I've spent!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Best $10 i ever spent


considering the Danger Den cutter, though they are all very similar.

anything else you'd recommend for a first timer?

(and any more feedback on the cpu block dilemma?)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> considering the Danger Den cutter, though they are all very similar.
> anything else you'd recommend for a first timer?
> (and any more feedback on the cpu block dilemma?)


See post above yours









You can find these very cheap at most hardware stores (try Harbor Freight Tools).


----------



## Nic-CM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Best $10 i ever spent


I'd second this. I've used the DangerDen cutter for a project because it came with the tubing. It works as intended, but it does take quite a bit of pressure to get through the tube. It's also a bit unstable when you're first pressing down. I also had a slip whilst cutting, broke the plastic hinge, and nearly poked myself with that razor blade.

That being said, it wasn't bad to work with. You just need to balance strength and finesse.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Best $4 I've spent!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> See post above yours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can find these very cheap at most hardware stores (try Harbor Freight Tools).


thanks for the suggestion. i would certainly search for one at a hardware store.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nic-CM*
> 
> I'd second this. I've used the DangerDen cutter for a project because it came with the tubing. It works as intended, but it does take quite a bit of pressure to get through the tube. It's also a bit unstable when you're first pressing down. I also had a slip whilst cutting, broke the plastic hinge, and nearly poked myself with that razor blade.
> That being said, it wasn't bad to work with. You just need to balance strength and finesse.


thanks for the info, very helpful.
and people say being a PC Enthusiast isn't dangerous









any more suggestions for things a first timer Water Cooler might need? (except the hose cutter)

also, would anyone help me with deciding which block: (to achieve a great glow effect with red coolant)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Unfortunately, the ice black (black smoked) acrylic version doesn't have LED holes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (as seen *here* )
> So i'd have to choose between the black smoked version without LEDs, The clear acrylic version with LEDs or just settle with the XSPC Raystorm which is equally impressive to the BP blocks.
> any suggestions ?


----------



## Rickles

I just use my skinning knife. Straight from the back country and covered in blood and guts.

Just kidding, I keep it nice and clean.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> also, would anyone help me with deciding which block: (to achieve a great glow effect with red coolant)


You might be able to frost / smoke the clear block but IDK if you would get that good of adhesion on it.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> You might be able to frost / smoke the clear block but IDK if you would get that good of adhesion on it.


don't want something that extreme, i just want to decide which option is better?

(maybe other clear smoked top blocks with led holes?)


----------



## PCModderMike

Got some goodies waiting for me at my local Fedex office when I get off work....including one of these


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Got some goodies waiting for me at my local Fedex office when I get off work....including one of these


I have the 400mm version. Its very nice indeed.


I see your $4 and raise you...



£0.70


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I see your $4 and raise you...
> 
> £0.70


$0 free hands! lol



Don't trust free-handling blades after working in a bakery for a few years w/ some super sharp knives (and lots of deep cuts







).


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have the 400mm version. Its very nice indeed.


Mine's a 250....400 just wouldn't really fit inside my lil case (little compared to yours at least)









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I see your $4 and raise you...
> 
> £0.70


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nic-CM*
> 
> I'd second this. I've used the DangerDen cutter for a project because it came with the tubing. It works as intended, but it does take quite a bit of pressure to get through the tube. It's also a bit unstable when you're first pressing down. I also had a slip whilst cutting, broke the plastic hinge, and nearly poked myself with that razor blade.
> That being said, it wasn't bad to work with. You just need to balance strength and finesse.


Are you just cutting thru like scissors?

You are supposed to twist the cutter round the tube while applying pressure,it will cut like butter doing it that way.
I used to cut PEX all day long,you soon get a faster way of cutting....


----------



## She loved E

exacto w/a sharp new blade works best for me. no need for fancy cutters imo.


----------



## neSSa

My new project is almost over


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> considering the Danger Den cutter, though they are all very similar.
> anything else you'd recommend for a first timer?
> (and any more feedback on the cpu block dilemma?)


dangerden one sucks get the one above.


----------



## Phelan

I use razor blades like B Negative posted, but in a boxknife. I use them every day for my work, so I get them for free







.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I use razor blades like B Negative posted, but in a boxknife. I use them every day for my work, so I get them for free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


well then, could ask for a scalpel but i guess it's too much


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> My new project is almost over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Dead sexy. What lines and coolant you using? May take that idea from ya.


----------



## craney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> My new project is almost over


That looks amazing mate great work! Gonna be starting my 1st watercooled build soon, love your compression fittings which ones are they?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> That looks amazing mate great work! Gonna be starting my 1st watercooled build soon, love your compression fittings which ones are they?


They look like EK fittings. If you could, please spoiler quote when quoting more than one photo.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> My water blocks..


Loving that gpu block so sexy but not so much the others


----------



## neSSa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Dead sexy. What lines and coolant you using? May take that idea from ya.


Ordinary distilled water, with Mayhems Dye RED. Ttubes are MasterClear
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> That looks amazing mate great work! Gonna be starting my 1st watercooled build soon, love your compression fittings which ones are they?


Thank you! Fittings are EKwaterblocks, 19/13 black, older series ...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> well then, could ask for a scalpel but i guess it's too much


Scalpel wouldn't last long cutting insulating batts







. I install fiberglass insulation, both batts and blown. We use the box knives cuz they're sharp as **** and cheap in a pack of 100.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *She loved E*
> 
> exacto w/a sharp new blade works best for me. no need for fancy cutters imo.


I just use plain old kitchen scissors. Not 1 leak yet









Sent from my galaxy s2 using Tapatalk


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> I just use plain old kitchen scissors. Not 1 leak yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my galaxy s2 using Tapatalk


Yep. I got my wife a very good, large pair of scissors a few years ago for her quilting/sewing, and I just borrow them to cut tubing. I get a stone and sharpen them up real nice.


----------



## jokrik

My trusty chef knife, always get the job done! not kidding....


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> My new project is almost over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very clean looking. nice job.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> 
> My trusty chef knife, always get the job done! not kidding....




Stick the tubing in the vise and use this. Best $35 I ever spent on a cutter.









Of course it came with the full set and I use it for everything too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Phelan

Anyone know any good-looking RAM waterblocks for 2 DIMMs? I have a Rampage 4 Gene on the way, and I'm planning to put the mobo and the RAM under water, but I haven't decided what look I'm going for yet.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stick the tubing in the vise and use this. Best $35 I ever spent on a cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ginzu?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Anyone know any good-looking RAM waterblocks for 2 DIMMs? I have a Rampage 4 Gene on the way, and I'm planning to put the mobo and the RAM under water, but I haven't decided what look I'm going for yet.


EK has a pretty good ram block out, with their new CSQ design. I'm personally not a fan of their CSQ, but the ram block doesn't look bad. in fact, i plan to run the 2 DIMM version of it in my current "Nazara" build.

the thing im wondering however is if i'd be able to use Bitspower universal ram plates and then mount it on the EK block. most blocks including Bitspower's and EK's are designed specifically for Corsair's Dominator ram. but a few companies have released universal ram plates that have the same mounting dimensions as the Dominators do. so in theory, you could run different company universal plates with different ram blocks, as long as the ram block is for a Dominator ram and the company that makes the universal plate also has a Dominator ram block.

here is what EK's look like..


Bitspower..


and here are the universal ram plates..

XSPC has a set..


as well as Bitspower..


EDIT:

forgot to mention that Aqua Computer also has a kit designed for 2 DIMMs. $35 on sidewinder..


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ I need to find a v1 EK Dominator block in Copper with either the Red top or Acetal. Anyone seen one floating around or know of anyone selling theirs?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stick the tubing in the vise and use this. Best $35 I ever spent on a cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ginzu?
Click to expand...

Miracle Blade II. Came with two of these knives. Gave one to my Ma and kept the other one. Got the Santuku with the block and cutting board afterwards. Just an outstanding set imho. It may not be top of the line 5star Chef quality but I've had the set for 6 years now an I will only be replacing it with the MB III set in the future and giving this one to my bro I think.









Just put the tubing in a vise (don't collapse the tubing) an a few back an forths an it's cut nice and straight. Make sure to heat the tubing with a hair dryer before you do it though cause if you're cutting in the middle of a bend(coiled tubing) you'll inherit the bend at the cut and it will not be straight.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ I need to find a v1 EK Dominator block in Copper with either the Red top or Acetal. Anyone seen one floating around or know of anyone selling theirs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sold a BP nickel/red plexi top (6 dimm though) a few months ago. You never tooks


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> 
> My trusty chef knife, always get the job done! not kidding....


Global are decent knives, but I have too big of hands for them to be comfortable to use for a long period of time.

I personally use either Wusthof Ikon, Shun Hiro 8" or Fuji 6", or Zwilling J.A. Henckels by Kramer Carbon Damascus Chef's Knives. I am lucky, my girlfriend has an extensive background in Culinary Arts and was given some very incredible knives as gifts (she is now working on a Master's in Nursing). I especially love the Z.J.A.H. Damascus ones


----------



## derickwm

I like my Shun knife but I definitely do not use it for cutting my tubing









I've been using this since day one personally, love it.

Ceadderman:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=31175
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=32974


----------



## mironccr345

Making Progress.


----------



## nyk20z3

My Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer Ram In Action -


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I picked mine up on sale at Lowes for $5.99 (tube cutter that is... not getting in to kitchen knives because







and B-Neg will scold me







).

I have to say that although I didn't have it for my first tubing (Primochill... nuff said) when I replaced everything (with different CRAP but still better than PC) I wouldn't go back to the razor blade method ever again. Without a doubt the best thing with the tube cutters is "run trimming" with absolute ease. Before if I misjudged a run (and I usually do intentionally on the long side) I'd have to pull it back off the first fitting, trim the extraneous amount, remount and then test strain, etc. Now I can simply trim off the extra if necessary without even removing the tubing from the case and without putting any strain on the initial fitting or block it's attached to.









To me that's a savings of at least 10 minutes... which in my book is worth way more than $6.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ I need to find a v1 EK Dominator block in Copper with either the Red top or Acetal. Anyone seen one floating around or know of anyone selling theirs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sold a BP nickel/red plexi top (6 dimm though) a few months ago. You never tooks
Click to expand...

I woulda had I the monies at the time. But as you said 6 DIMM block. Would have been much wider than what I can use on this AM3 board. My OCD would have been like Peter Parker's Spider Sense when he first got bit by that radioactive spider. Nevermind how flawed the last Spidey movie was.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I like my Shun knife but I definitely do not use it for cutting my tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using this since day one personally, love it.
> 
> Ceadderman:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=31175
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=32974


Thanks for the Plexi link derrick. Sadly the link to that Red top is fail. That's for a 6 DIMM block if I'm not mistaken. Unfortunately PPCs' has their issues with their descriptions. I could go with a Black acetal top though if I can find one.









If I have to I'll get the CSQ block and mod the acetal to make those crop circles halfway palatable. But I hate that I'd be forced to go to that kind of an extreme to make make it compatible with my other blocks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I picked mine up on sale at Lowes for $5.99 (tube cutter that is... not getting in to kitchen knives because
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and B-Neg will scold me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I have to say that although I didn't have it for my first tubing (Primochill... nuff said) when I replaced everything (with different CRAP but still better than PC) I wouldn't go back to the razor blade method ever again. Without a doubt the best thing with the tube cutters is "run trimming" with absolute ease. Before if I misjudged a run (and I usually do intentionally on the long side) I'd have to pull it back off the first fitting, trim the extraneous amount, remount and then test strain, etc. Now I can simply trim off the extra if necessary without even removing the tubing from the case and without putting any strain on the initial fitting or block it's attached to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me that's a savings of at least 10 minutes... which in my book is worth way more than $6.


While commendable have you ever thought about laying out your tubing as you go? When I built my loop I didn't have to do any cutdowns for any of my tubing. I just attached one end to the barb and drew out the length of tubing I needed past the other barb and pinched just behind the threads an took the whole thing over to the vise and secured the tubing enough to keep it from moving and cut it right there. The excess that I have is negligible because you always have some kind of movement when securing the Compression rings, it never fails.

I'm not saying your way is wrong. Just sayin that if you can conserve your tubing and not waste any that it's a good thing to have a slightly better approach to cutting tubing. With your cutter you should be able to mock up your runs much easier right there in the system without wasting anything.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

To all the guys wanting Scythe fans,Specialtech still have them (scythe EU is still going) and ship to the US.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## mandrix

Really like that res. If I ever swap out my Phobya balancer that's the one I would get.
No 250mm, though.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm in love with their white fittings







If I didn't have so much invested in all my current BP fittings, I would have started fresh with all white fittings.


----------



## Ceadderman

I need to get a handful of their Red barbs to match the shiny Red Monsoons that I have. Good thing they're not too expensive.









Those white ones look hella Storm Trooperish. Luv it.











~Ceadder ;drink:


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I just attached one end to the barb and drew out the length of tubing I needed past the other barb and pinched just behind the threads an took the whole thing over to the vise and secured the tubing enough to keep it from moving and cut it right there. The excess that I have is negligible because you always have some kind of movement when securing the Compression rings, it never fails.
> I'm not saying your way is wrong. Just sayin that if you can conserve your tubing and not waste any that it's a good thing to have a slightly better approach to cutting tubing. With your cutter you should be able to mock up your runs much easier right there in the system without wasting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh I did all of my runs in-system... but if I can 'tighten' a particular run by even a 1/2" (provided that doesn't put any strain on the components/fittings) then I want to do that to have as few bends as possible. Sometime soon I'll go with pipes (cuz they're sexy mostly... but also for durability/total lack of issues i.e. plasticizer).

I'm a little confused about your concern with wasting a small amount tubing (not you specifically... you're in good company as many have voiced similar concerns). Perhaps its because I spent the last year rehabbing my house (was a forclosure) and doing all the trim/moldings/flooring/etc. but I planned on wasting at least 10% of my tubing on test fitting / loop reorganization. In actuality I wound up having less than a foot of total waste and so I have about 20 extra feet.

Even if it was ultra high-end stuff at ~$5/ft. You're still talking about two feet of waste costing less than a single Bitspower fitting (OK an angle or rotary but still). I guess it all depends on where you try to save however and I do see a value in being very careful in precisely measuring your runs if money is in short supply. I left plenty of 'float' in my budget on the monetary side, so I wasn't worried about a few inches of wasted tubing.







I've got about 8 extra compression fittings left over because I didn't add 2 more radiators I had initially planned on - but in the grand scheme of things even that expense was worth the flexibility in my opinion.









If this hadn't been my first WC build in many years I probably would have been less 'sloppy' in my estimations and had no waste at all... but I still think there's value in being able to make (or remake if necessary) tubing cuts right in the case rather than having to cut them elsewhere.

Doing my build upstairs in my office and having all my tools, bench, etc. downstairs in the garage might have had something to do with that as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I just attached one end to the barb and drew out the length of tubing I needed past the other barb and pinched just behind the threads an took the whole thing over to the vise and secured the tubing enough to keep it from moving and cut it right there. The excess that I have is negligible because you always have some kind of movement when securing the Compression rings, it never fails.
> I'm not saying your way is wrong. Just sayin that if you can conserve your tubing and not waste any that it's a good thing to have a slightly better approach to cutting tubing. With your cutter you should be able to mock up your runs much easier right there in the system without wasting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I did all of my runs in-system... but if I can 'tighten' a particular run by even a 1/2" (provided that doesn't put any strain on the components/fittings) then I want to do that to have as few bends as possible. Sometime soon I'll go with pipes (cuz they're sexy mostly... but also for durability/total lack of issues i.e. plasticizer).
> 
> I'm a little confused about your concern with wasting a small amount tubing (not you specifically... you're in good company as many have voiced similar concerns). Perhaps its because I spent the last year rehabbing my house (was a forclosure) and doing all the trim/moldings/flooring/etc. but I planned on wasting at least 10% of my tubing on test fitting / loop reorganization. In actuality I wound up having less than a foot of total waste and so I have about 20 extra feet.
> 
> Even if it was ultra high-end stuff at ~$5/ft. You're still talking about two feet of waste costing less than a single Bitspower fitting (OK an angle or rotary but still). I guess it all depends on where you try to save however and I do see a value in being very careful in precisely measuring your runs if money is in short supply. I left plenty of 'float' in my budget on the monetary side, so I wasn't worried about a few inches of wasted tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got about 8 extra compression fittings left over because I didn't add 2 more radiators I had initially planned on - but in the grand scheme of things even that expense was worth the flexibility in my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this hadn't been my first WC build in many years I probably would have been less 'sloppy' in my estimations and had no waste at all... but I still think there's value in being able to make (or remake if necessary) tubing cuts right in the case rather than having to cut them elsewhere.
> 
> Doing my build upstairs in my office and having all my tools, bench, etc. downstairs in the garage might have had something to do with that as well.
Click to expand...

Haha cool. Yeah I'm on the brokeazz plan. So for me any waste is too much waste. I keep the excess pieces in a box for that JiC issue that may crop up.









~Ceadder


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Haha cool. Yeah I'm on the brokeazz plan. So for me any waste is too much waste. I keep the excess pieces in a box for that JiC issue that may crop up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I know the feeling.. I keep everything from old DDR/DDR2 RAM, proprietary form motherboards, thousands of screws in a bin in case there is a slight chance I may need anything.

SRC


----------



## bundymania

Look at this now


----------



## NewHighScore

<3 bundymania
and

<3 Al Bundy


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I used Ricardo on my SR 2,his work is awesome!


----------



## RKTGX95

what would be the performance difference between the Alphacool XT45 240 with SP120 (1450rpm) in p/p vs a UT60 in Push / pull or even (if its worth it) the monsta in push or pull? (the XT45 240 is being out of stock for a while now at PPCS and i am starting leaning towards other options to finally order. also worth mentioning that nesides the 240 rad there would be the ST30 3660 rad with push.) Or just go with the Magicool 45mm thick 240 rad which is pretty much the same thing as the XT45 (since it is the XT45's OEM just without the additional 4 G1/4 mountings, without the screw protectors agains puncture and a 16 fpi instead of 10)

if there are any other rad suggestions please add any







(it is important to note that i do not wish to have a 60mm 240 rad with push pull, since it would be too tight for some connectors)

also, what is the effect of a clear cpu block top with red coolant and white LEDs? (considering instead the raystorm with red LEDs)


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> My new project is almost over


Very nice job! Its really hard to work on this case the cable management efficiently!









What are the max core and vrm 1 and vrm 2 temps of your gpu?

When i saw the upper part of your first picture, i thought someone had modified my pix









]


----------



## neSSa

@ElGreco

Thank you, it is hard but with a little cutting and installing new parts and Plexiglas sheet I was able to do even more than perfect cable management










Cases that is the same but yours is in black original as I can see, mine is the classic silver and I was troubled enough to paint the plastic and metal in similar shades.

Matherboard that you use once and I had one of my greatest loves, I used two Nvidia GTX480 on it, everything is working great ...









7970 is a great card and does not need more than water, but I like the quiet machine that's why I went to the LC. In the cooling system and the 480rade 280rad but the fans are set to minimum rpm.

Here is print screen temperature


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> what would be the performance difference between the Alphacool XT45 240 with SP120 (1450rpm) in p/p vs a UT60 in Push / pull or even (if its worth it) the monsta in push or pull? (the XT45 240 is being out of stock for a while now at PPCS and i am starting leaning towards other options to finally order. also worth mentioning that nesides the 240 rad there would be the ST30 3660 rad with push.) Or just go with the Magicool 45mm thick 240 rad which is pretty much the same thing as the XT45 (since it is the XT45's OEM just without the additional 4 G1/4 mountings, without the screw protectors agains puncture and a 16 fpi instead of 10)
> if there are any other rad suggestions please add any
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (it is important to note that i do not wish to have a 60mm 240 rad with push pull, since it would be too tight for some connectors)
> also, what is the effect of a clear cpu block top with red coolant and white LEDs? (considering instead the raystorm with red LEDs)


anyone? ( Deja Vu ?







)


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> anyone? ( Deja Vu ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The XT45 is thinner which means it will have less cooling ability compared to a UT60. They might even out more if the XT45 was in P/P vs a UT60 in push alone. Either way the price difference between the UT60 and XT45 will be null because the required 2 xtra fans for p/p. For me less fans equals less noise and I would just go with a UT60 in push.


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> @ElGreco
> Thank you, it is hard but with a little cutting and installing new parts and Plexiglas sheet I was able to do even more than perfect cable management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cases that is the same but yours is in black original as I can see, mine is the classic silver and I was troubled enough to paint the plastic and metal in similar shades.
> Matherboard that you use once and I had one of my greatest loves, I used two Nvidia GTX480 on it, everything is working great ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7970 is a great card and does not need more than water, but I like the quiet machine that's why I went to the LC. In the cooling system and the 480rade 280rad but the fans are set to minimum rpm.
> Here is print screen temperature...


You have put a lot more work on the case itself than i have. Very nice job indeed. I kept the original black paint, that i love and have zero modifications on the case, that automatically made me spent more than 20 work hours on cable management alone and quite a lot of money for external wc.

Here you can see the status of my system before the cable management.... Chaos...http://www.thelab.gr/1063379701-post2217.html

Regarding the temps, I get max 33C on the 2 gpu cores and vrms max 39-42C when on unigine 3. I suppose that Furmark is a lot more demanding, thats why you have slightly higher temps...

Good Job


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> what would be the performance difference between the Alphacool XT45 240 with SP120 (1450rpm) in p/p vs a UT60 in Push / pull or even (if its worth it) the monsta in push or pull? (the XT45 240 is being out of stock for a while now at PPCS and i am starting leaning towards other options to finally order. also worth mentioning that nesides the 240 rad there would be the ST30 3660 rad with push.) Or just go with the Magicool 45mm thick 240 rad which is pretty much the same thing as the XT45


The difference between those radiators is going to be a degree or two at most. Id just buy whatever is cheapest.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> The XT45 is thinner which means it will have less cooling ability compared to a UT60. They might even out more if the XT45 was in P/P vs a UT60 in push alone. Either way the price difference between the UT60 and XT45 will be null because the required 2 xtra fans for p/p. For me less fans equals less noise and I would just go with a UT60 in push.


thanks for the input. i was asking because many reviews (if i recall correctly even Martin's, i wish i could access one) state that these 2 radiators are so close that its barely noticeable.

on a different note, what is the usual difference between push and p/p ? (noticeable?)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The difference between those radiators is going to be a degree or two at most. Id just buy whatever is cheapest.


the problem is not that, its that the cheaper (XT45) isn't available and the UT60 is. so it's either buy the UT60 or wait (even) more time to save that money on the XT45 (and a bit space, though p/p is considered)


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> thanks for the input. i was asking because many reviews (if i recall correctly even Martin's, i wish i could access one) state that these 2 radiators are so close that its barely noticeable.
> on a different note, what is the usual difference between push and p/p ? (noticeable?)
> the problem is not that, its that the cheaper (XT45) isn't available and the UT60 is. so it's either buy the UT60 or wait (even) more time to save that money on the XT45 (and a bit space, though p/p is considered)


A thinner rad in P/P usually out perfoms a thicker rad in just push or just pull. The noise difference when running P/P compared to just push or pull is minimal, like 2-4 Db. That being said, it is close enough to where you aren't going to notice anything drastic from one set up to the other unless you are running fans at like 2700 rpms.


----------



## MiiX

How is the Swiftech Apogee Drive II in action? compared to a pump+CPU block?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> A thinner rad in P/P usually out perfoms a thicker rad in just push or just pull. The noise difference when running P/P compared to just push or pull is minimal, like 2-4 Db. That being said, it is close enough to where you aren't going to notice anything drastic from one set up to the other unless you are running fans at like 2700 rpms.


well, these are the Corsair SP120 QE ,i.e. 1450 RPM (with decent pressure of 1.3 mm/H20 ) so i guess the difference is minimal at best. also, odd enough it would be cheaper overall for me. (since i'm buying the fans locally and they are more expensive here, like everything







)

and on a different note, which 7970 block you (people) think would be better? the Koolance 7970 block, or the *Aquacomputer 7970 block*?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Source:
http://itlounge.eu/amd-radeon-hd-7970-hd-7950-wasserkuhler-im-vergleich/













(the theme is mainly red and black with some little white lighting, and maybe some accents black nickel that are presented by the XSPC comps with EK's angles)


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> How is the Swiftech Apogee Drive II in action? compared to a pump+CPU block?


It is awesome







. Not very loud at all until about 90%+ pump speed. Mine runs just fine through the cpu block, gpu block, 2 480 rads and dual bay res.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> well, these are the Corsair SP120 QE ,i.e. 1450 RPM (with decent pressure of 1.3 mm/H20 ) so i guess the difference is minimal at best. also, odd enough it would be cheaper overall for me. (since i'm buying the fans locally and they are more expensive here, like everything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> and on a different note, which 7970 block you (people) think would be better? the Koolance 7970 block, or the *Aquacomputer 7970 block*?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Source:
> http://itlounge.eu/amd-radeon-hd-7970-hd-7950-wasserkuhler-im-vergleich/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the theme is mainly red and black with some little white lighting, and maybe some accents black nickel that are presented by the XSPC comps with EK's angles)


Koolance between those two, though my favorite is the Komodo.


----------



## Fonne

Posted some pictures a while back of my new (Old) Aqua Computer aquagratiX HD 3870 (RV670):



And just wanted to share is looks inside:



2mm wide channels ...



Was suprised that the holes were not in the center - Maybe its like that today also, still learning











Still like the look of this ~5 year old block more than the CSQ design


----------



## neSSa

@ElGreco

FurMark is the most demanding in terms of GPU heating,

"MORA" is an excellent radiator, I had a monster Phobya 1260 radiator , which is great and i7 3xGTX480,
but this time I decided to stay on the internal radiator,

I want everything to be compact


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> @ElGreco
> *FurMark is the most demanding in terms of GPU heating*,
> "MORA" is an excellent radiator, I had a monster Phobya 1260 radiator , which is great and i7 3xGTX480,
> but this time I decided to stay on the internal radiator,
> I want everything to be compact


Unless you use nvidia cards....then the driver throttles the cards........helpful not.


----------



## wermad

Edit: IMHO, stay away from FurMark. Its too harsh. Use another benchmark to test stability and temps. You can always loop the benchmark a few runs if you want.

New water cooling gear/equipment upgrade arrived!!!!


----------



## driftingforlife

You know wermad your not very good at this "saving money" thing are you


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> You know wermad your not very good at this "saving money" thing are you


Got this through a trade, so no money spent (other than $10 for shipping my items). Wifey is *not* upset, well...sort of



































.

edit: some of you will recognize this "part/equipment/wc-gear"


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got this through a trade, so no money spent (other than $10 for shipping my items). Wifey is *not* upset, well...sort of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> edit: some of you will recognize this "part/equipment/wc-gear"


Happy wife - Happy life!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got this through a trade, so no money spent (other than $10 for shipping my items). Wifey is *not* upset, well...sort of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> edit: some of you will recognize this "part/equipment/wc-gear"










Oh man too good. I know mine wouldn't be happy if I received a package that big









Looks fun.


----------



## MaDeuce50

Quick question. Am I going to need an extension fitting on my 360 rad with push pull 120x25mm fans if I'm going to use two 45 degree adapters?


----------



## PCModderMike

Whoa, that's a large box, lets see the goodies!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaDeuce50*
> 
> Quick question. Am I going to need an extension fitting on my 360 rad with push pull 120x25mm fans if I'm going to use two 45 degree adapters?


Depends on your angled fittings if they're tall enough to clear the fans. If not, get some 20-25mm. Mind you this will apply if your fittings are going to be angled towards the fans.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> Happy wife - Happy life!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh man too good. I know mine wouldn't be happy if I received a package that big
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks fun.


lol, she was upset at first









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Whoa, that's a large box, lets see the goodies!


I was freaked out too on the size of this package. Its old owner sent it whole instead of dismantling. I have to prep my old rig first to get this going. lol, it is the biggest package I have ever received in my life


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Wermad- Have fun with it. Can't wait to see what you pull of with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Are we having a water cooling peep show? If so how much is the cost of this naughty naughty film? And how old you gotta be 2 watch.









~Ceadder


----------



## ginger_nuts

I am so close, but still so far away.

I am scared to leak check, but the time is here:





If you wondering why the tubing has a bluish look, it is becoz it's Masterkleer UV Clear Blue.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Edit: IMHO, stay away from FurMark. Its too harsh. Use another benchmark to test stability and temps. You can always loop the benchmark a few runs if you want.
> New water cooling gear/equipment upgrade arrived!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


"New water cooling gear/equipment upgrade"??? looks like a 50000btu a/c unit maybe


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I am so close, but still so far away.
> I am scared to leak check, but the time is here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wondering why the tubing has a bluish look, it is becoz it's Masterkleer UV Clear Blue.


no more procrastination. Fire that baby up!!!


----------



## kyismaster

looks like they sent a casemod case fully assembled...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Is it normal for res's to leak around the end threaded seal? After removing two 45 barbs this is the third leak. My patience is starting to be tested.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is it normal for res's to leak around the end threaded seal? After removing two 45 barbs this is the third leak. My patience is starting to be tested.


the loop shouldnt leak anywhere, but it is more common around the threads then anywhere else... are you sure all your connections are as tight as they can be?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is it normal for res's to leak around the end threaded seal? After removing two 45 barbs this is the third leak. My patience is starting to be tested.


did ya remember to add a O-ring?

that was my mistake at first, put on some barbs w/o orings, and remembered just before I added water.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is it normal for res's to leak around the end threaded seal? After removing two 45 barbs this is the third leak. My patience is starting to be tested.


Plumbers tape!


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> @ElGreco
> FurMark is the most demanding in terms of GPU heating,
> ...


Since, i dont like the idea to furmark my cards, would you mind running a couple of times unigine 3 and tell me the max values of core and vrmS temps as shown by gpuz?

This would be also a nice comparison between furmark and unigine stress tests...

Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> "New water cooling gear/equipment upgrade"??? looks like a 50000btu a/c unit maybe
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> looks like they sent a casemod case fully assembled...
Click to expand...

Custom MM case










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Wermad- Have fun with it. Can't wait to see what you pull of with it.


Thanks bud







I do have a few things planned but right now I'm strapped for cash so I'll be using the gear I have. Might sell the Monsta rads in favor of some regular 480 rads.


----------



## animal0307

Jumping into watercooling for some reason. Just flushed my rad with a Wix fuel filter (#33003). Worked real well deffinately worth the $5 to not spend 30 mins shacking my rad over the sink. Now I'm looking for a 5870 water block. Anyone get one laying around?


----------



## eskamobob1

lol... love teh old school gas filter







and grats on the WCing


----------



## ginger_nuts

Yeh I did put all o rings in. It seemed the bends I was trying were just to tight and pushing the angles.

Down to Bunnings I go to get some plumbers tape. Bunnings is as expensive as a online shopping spree.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> As a well known fan of the CSQ design, these will not be making it into my build.


I concur. Maybe if they came in white...


----------



## FlashGordon

I modified system by new radiator Phobya 1080 & Box.
then seems finished finaly,,,
Using Koolance No-Spill Shutoff, I can remove water nothing to do with radiator
combining female and male ,,,
I can leave radiator without removing Rad. water,
its nice idea isnt it,,,, or its norma idea,,,?
Flash Gordon


----------



## ginger_nuts

Well after a few bad words. Some plumbers tape and a un-told amount of paper towel (thanks from work). It seems ok.

All I hope is........this is it!!!!!

And first impressions of this Koolance pmp-500 pump is.......well!!!!! It is damn noisy+ way to much flow for me.

It would be well suited to someone with four gpu's two cpu's and a dozen rad's or more. Kind of sucky I can't slow it down a notch or three.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Well after a few bad words. Some plumbers tape and a un-told amount of paper towel (thanks from work). It seems ok.
> 
> All I hope is........this is it!!!!!
> 
> And first impressions of this Koolance pmp-500 pump is.......well!!!!! It is damn noisy+ way to much flow for me.
> 
> It would be well suited to someone with four gpu's two cpu's and a dozen rad's or more. Kind of sucky I can't slow it down a notch or three.


Can you put that pump on a Fan Controller, or is it Molex powered? If you can change the power configuration(if it's not 3 pin pwr) then I would suggest going that route and connecting it to a fan controller to get the RPMs' down to a more manageable speed. Make sure you have that pump on some sort of absorbtion device before you change the PWR configuration. It may be that you're paying the price for ignoring the importance of the Shoggy Shandwich.









~Ceadder


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [
> I see your $4 and raise you...
> 
> 
> 
> £0.70


much cheaper than what i used


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [
> I see your $4 and raise you...
> 
> 
> 
> £0.70
> 
> 
> 
> much cheaper than what i used
Click to expand...

Hahaha yeah true. I have a plastic one that is similar to that. Haven't tried using it to cut my tubing but I am sure it would do in a pinch too.









Awesome avvy bro. 9ers4Life.









~Ceadder


----------



## RKTGX95

except a hose cutter, what else is highly recommended for a first time Water Cooler?


----------



## NewHighScore

If you're crafty you can get a nice straight cut with scissors. I just used my kitchen scissors.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> If you're crafty you can get a nice straight cut with scissors. I just used my kitchen scissors.


i think that for me is best to get a tube cutter and play it safe









btw, how long of an extender is needed to get a 45 or a 90 degree fitting over a fan when installed on a radiator? (is 10mm extender enough? or more is needed?)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> If you're crafty you can get a nice straight cut with scissors. I just used my kitchen scissors.
> 
> 
> 
> i think that for me is best to get a tube cutter and play it safe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, how long of an extender is needed to get a 45 or a 90 degree fitting over a fan when installed on a radiator? (is 10mm extender enough? or more is needed?)
Click to expand...

I have my fans pulling through the Radiator which has no fans on the other side where my fittings are. But I would hazard a guess that you would need at least a 20mm male/female fitting to be able to clear a 25mm fan if you're using angle fittings for clearance. However I do think that it's dependent on the brand of fittings as each are made to their own specifications and tolerances.









~Ceadder


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> except a hose cutter, what else is highly recommended for a first time Water Cooler?


got jaws? lol

scissors, tube cutter, raz blade, anything is good as long as it cuts.
i use seat belt scissors i got from abuddy that works in a seat belt
making factory.. like butta baby lol...


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have my fans pulling through the Radiator which has no fans on the other side where my fittings are. But I would hazard a guess that you would need at least a 20mm male/female fitting to be able to clear a 25mm fan if you're using angle fittings for clearance. However I do think that it's dependent on the brand of fittings as each are made to their own specifications and tolerances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i am planning on using EK's angle fittings (since they are the only ones that fit the XSPC compressions, besides phobya) and i guess that *this* should work just fine?


----------



## decnet

Hi guys, first post on OCN. I just finished building an external case for my radiators and pump.
After running two radiators mounted to the side of my Lancool K62 case for about half a year I got annoyed with the sight and their tendency to suck in loose objects such as screws falling off my desk and especially hair, which usually wraps itself around the fan axle and serves as a noise generator.
The new case sits below the actual computer and looks quite fitting. I've also installed two simple potentiometers controlling the fans inside the oc case and the radiator case, which is the simplest and cheapest way IMO of finding an adequate balance between my ever changing noise and cooling needs.

I made it out of simple carpenting wood, which is covered in wrap as used on cars (flat metallic grey colored); the sides are made of steel mesh painted in satin black for rust resistance. Overall, I guess I dumped around €50s in that thing, so not too bad. I'm not particularly big on matching colors or inside looks in general as may be evident by the pics. I was basically incorporating every cheap radiator I bought off ebay over the past two years and fitted the fans I had; the radiator case serves as an item of "it's hidden from sight, so who cares what it looks like". Additionally, it provides some sound reduction, and of course removing all that crap from the inside of my PC case means better airflow in there. Overall, I'm quite happy with the results.

Cooled Hardware:
2x Powercolor [email protected]/1250; alphaCool HF14 coolers and arctic cooling ram/mosfet cooling set.
AMD Phenom II [email protected]; magicool CPU cooler (cheap and crappy, tempted to upgrade but will probably go Intel anyway, so must do for now).

Radiators:
Innovatek Single + Dual; Chillguard XXL Extreme Pro Triple120; Magicool Single.

Fans:
Mostly AC 12s, some AC12 TCs (with sensors touching the Mosfets), and Enermax Twister and a Scythe something.

Fan Controllers: DIY job based on 2x L200 regulators and a few resistors plus two potentiometers.

Tubing:
8mm all over.

Pump:
Eheim/Innovatek HPPS.

So as you may be able to tell, I wasn't exactly going for the best and nicest all the time, but rather the popular let's-get-other-people's-abandoned-projects-off-ebay-for-dirt-cheap approach. Still, the indicated temperatures I am seeing make me think it was quite worth it. Overall and realistically, I paid less than €200 for that watercooling loop and the case combined, which is just about €50 more than I would have paid for decent air-coolers such as the AC Accelero Xtreme for those two 6950s and something nice for the CPU.

Temps:

CPU: 16-18°C idle (yes, it's indicating quite low), 48°C max.
GPUs: 30°C idle, 47°C max.

If you have any suggestions or recommendations for this rig, such as maybe an affordable CPU cooler that will fit both my current AM3 CPU and my intended socket-1155 purchase in a few months please do tell. Also, the data about flow and cooling performance I've seen so far tells me that 8mm tubing and this Eheim pump are fine for my needs, but as usual, I can't get the doubts out of my head entirely. So if in your experience it would make a significant difference to switch to larger tubing, I'd love to hear that as well.

Chris


----------



## grimreaper01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Jumping into watercooling for some reason. Just flushed my rad with a Wix fuel filter (#33003). Worked real well deffinately worth the $5 to not spend 30 mins shacking my rad over the sink. Now I'm looking for a 5870 water block. Anyone get one laying around?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1151629/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1151630/


Stupid question since I never dine it with my rad.
Why do you have to flush out a rad?


----------



## decnet

When they are new from the factory, there might be some substances and/or objects left over inside the rad from the production process, such as soldering flux etc. I suppose some companies clean out their radiators before selling already, but I guess it's better to be safe than sorry.


----------



## js593

Interesting thought on the Wix Filter. Honestly, i would keep that in there on clear systems at all times (just hide it) Those filters are the best on the planet.

I don't know what it would do to the dyed systems though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decnet*
> 
> When they are new from the factory, there might be some substances and/or objects left over inside the rad from the production process, such as soldering flux etc. I suppose some companies clean out their radiators before selling already, but I guess it's better to be safe than sorry.


Tbh, I would even flush a used Radiator. No comment about the ability of the guy you get one from but if you're going to put a Radiator in your system, wouldn't it be best to make sure everything is good? Some people don't have a lot of patience and you never know if they got everything out of it.









~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Interesting thought on the Wix Filter. Honestly, i would keep that in there on clear systems at all times (just hide it) Those filters are the best on the planet.


I'd imagine it would have a very high pressure drop. There should be no need for a filter in a loop 24/7 either. Not if the radiator and everything else was cleaned before hand.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd imagine it would have a very high pressure drop. There should be no need for a filter in a loop 24/7 either. Not if the radiator and everything else was cleaned before hand.


Depends on the filter. I can get custom made ones from WIX for the same price, that will have a -0 pressure drop. (they create a bypass in the filter, so the water still gets cleaned, but doesn't lose pressure)

Either way, with a high flow/pressure pump, that shouldn't matter much.


----------



## decnet

Quote:


> Tbh, I would even flush a used Radiator. No comment about the ability of the guy you get one from but if you're going to put a Radiator in your system, wouldn't it be best to make sure everything is good? Some people don't have a lot of patience and you never know if they got everything out of it.


You're of course right, that would be the best approach; however, I think that everything that is water- (or coolant)-soluble will indeed have dissolved after a month of running in someone elses loop - obviously, you'll have to rinse it out under the tap, and if you notice the water is very dirty or has particles in it, you'll rinse a little more or actually flush it for real, but in general I suppose you'll be fine(-ish) with a used radiator after rinseing it in water for a bit, provided that what came out of it didn't look too bad.
And after all, I have to ask non-rhetorically: What's the worst thing that could happen, except for really huge particles blocking your coolers or pumps, which you'd probably notice if you just rinsed it? I personally don't really see a catastrophic or quick failure occurring from anything other than that. Worst I can think of is corrosion of copper surfaces or maybe accelerated ageing of rubber o-rings, which are both rather gradual and will probably not come to full effect until your system is slightly outdated anyway (maybe a year or so). You'll probably check your system for leaks regularly anyway, so you'll be fine I suppose. If anyone else has had a different experience, I'd of course like to hear about it.

Chris


----------



## decnet

To explain where I'm coming from: I've bought a used radiator once that was run with some red coolant by the previous owner. I didn't really care for that, so I decided it would be best to flush it out thoroughly. I set it up in the best possible way other than filtering it through a loop: A hose going to the tap, and the radiator just leaking out into the shower. Left it running for 8 hours while going to work, returned home and thought I was done - emptied it out, let it sit for a while before rinseing it out finally - and still I saw red liquid coming out of that thing. I repeated the whole flush-for-8-hours routine, same result. After the third day of rinseing, I figured that enough was enough. Lessons learned: a) Don't color your coolant unless you're really certain you want to run that color, as your radiators will basically soak up that dye; b) if my assumption is right that other water-soluble substances act much the same way as this red dye, but are a lot less visible, then there is probably no such thing as a really clean cooling loop, as it's pretty much impossible to flush things out 100%. However, if there is no really clean system, and there are systems that run alright and don't start leaking or degrading in performance catastrophically over a reasonable amount of time (let's say three years or so), then it stands to logic that having a perfectly clean system probably doesn't matter as much as the manufacturers of expensive cooling fluids want to make you believe. I've decided for myself to simply run quality coolant that is compatible with your radiators and kills off the bacteria, after rinseing the radiators for a few minutes at most, and I believe this'll work out fine, even if there are some left-over molecules from the production process floating around there.

Chris


----------



## js593

Cleaning out Dye from a rad is easy. Go to your local automotive store, and get a product called 10 MINUTE FLUSH by GUNK. toss it in, leave it for a few minutes, rinse repeat and shake the rad. Most of it should come out. If it doesn't, go to your local dollar shop and get a bottle of hydrogen peroxide. That should break down the dye and it wont harm the metals. (you can try rubbing alch, but DONT LEAVE IT IN LONG. Make sure to flush it really good as well to get the chems out.


----------



## decnet

Oh, cool







Thanks for that tip! Well, since I ran my tap-water flushing system for more than 24 hours in total, I got most of it out anyway, but if I ever buy another one, I'll give it a try. Well, that unfortunately leaves me with a bad feeling about my present "10-minute-rinse"d system - but to be honest, I've run that in it's present semi-clean state for the past year and didn't have any problems with it so far, and the coolant doesn't look or smell weird at all. I'll keep an eye on the cooler surfaces though.

Chris


----------



## DutchChilles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> XSPC has a set..
> 
> as well as Bitspower..


EK now also has universal RAM plates for their Dominator RAM block.


----------



## SimpleTech

I was wondering why my GPU temps were so high... now I know why.









BEFORE:



AFTER:


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I was wondering why my GPU temps were so high... now I know why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE:
> 
> AFTER:


Whoa! Long overdue.







How many degrees cooler now?


----------



## SimpleTech

Dropped about 15°C. I run it 24/7 and usually clean it every couple of weeks but have been busy for the past month so I forgot about it.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I was wondering why my GPU temps were so high... now I know why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE:


Looks like your GPU was trying to make a real model of the Furmark donut...


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I was wondering why my GPU temps were so high... now I know why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE:
> 
> 
> 
> AFTER:


Looks like my dust filter on a daily basis. Darn smoker and animals in the house ._.


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Very nice, you've just ordered them? Be sure to share some pics when they arrive and are installed.


My Rig is all built...Its in my system spec and in a pitcher in my profile...


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Looks like my dust filter on a daily basis. Darn smoker and animals in the house ._.












Yeah it doesn't help that my mom is a smoker and that we have a dog too. But thank God for this *Metro Vacuum ED500*.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Looks like my dust filter on a daily basis. Darn smoker and animals in the house ._.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it doesn't help that my mom is a smoker and that we have a dog too. But thank God for this *Metro Vacuum ED500*.
Click to expand...

._.

I need that.
Like, now xD


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I was wondering why my GPU temps were so high... now I know why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE:
> 
> AFTER:


Crunchy crusty dusty


----------



## Phelan

Definitely a Furmark donut...


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Interesting thought on the Wix Filter. Honestly, i would keep that in there on clear systems at all times (just hide it) Those filters are the best on the planet.
> I don't know what it would do to the dyed systems though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd imagine it would have a very high pressure drop. There should be no need for a filter in a loop 24/7 either. Not if the radiator and everything else was cleaned before hand.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Depends on the filter. I can get custom made ones from WIX for the same price, that will have a -0 pressure drop. (they create a bypass in the filter, so the water still gets cleaned, but doesn't lose pressure)
> Either way, with a high flow/pressure pump, that shouldn't matter much.


I gave it a good thought too. I had a couple problems.

1) It was a pain to bleed the filter. air was trapped in it as my picture shows. Though I left it running all night and it managed to bleed all the air out on it's own it was pleasant annoying noise with a trickling sound too it, but I'd like a silent system. I have a MPC655 pump so I'm not worried about pressure drop. It's a pretty big filter so it filters a large volume. I didn't notice much restriction but I wasn't really looking for it either.

2) All that crap I filtered out is still in the filter and consequently still in the system so it still has impurities in it the might contaminate the loop. Not sure on this one.

3) It catches everything!! Even though I plan to use distilled water and a silver strip If it grows any sort of algae it all going to get stuck in there and turn into a giant Bio blob that will clog really fast. Same goes for any corrosion or plasticizer that my leech into the system. Hadn't planned to use a dye but if the break down. I wonder what would happen with Mayhem Aurora coolant though because that stuff does settle out of the mixture after a while.

4)Size: It's got 3/8" barbs. I'm running 1/2" Wix doesn't make a 1/2' version. It's also rather big even though it's still small. My case is small and I don't really have room for the rad I'm using let alone my pump, res, and other hardware.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I gave it a good thought too. I had a couple problems.
> 1) It was a pain to bleed the filter. air was trapped in it as my picture shows. Though I left it running all night and it managed to bleed all the air out on it's own it was pleasant annoying noise with a trickling sound too it, but I'd like a silent system. I have a MPC655 pump so I'm not worried about pressure drop. It's a pretty big filter so it filters a large volume. I didn't notice much restriction but I wasn't really looking for it either.
> 2) All that crap I filtered out is still in the filter and consequently still in the system so it still has impurities in it the might contaminate the loop. Not sure on this one.
> 3) It catches everything!! Even though I plan to use distilled water and a silver strip If it grows any sort of algae it all going to get stuck in there and turn into a giant Bio blob that will clog really fast. Same goes for any corrosion or plasticizer that my leech into the system. Hadn't planned to use a dye but if the break down. I wonder what would happen with Mayhem Aurora coolant though because that stuff does settle out of the mixture after a while.
> 4)Size: It's got 3/8" barbs. I'm running 1/2" Wix doesn't make a 1/2' version. It's also rather big even though it's still small. My case is small and I don't really have room for the rad I'm using let alone my pump, res, and other hardware.


what about using it with QDCs? all you need to do is plug it in for a brief time, disconnect to wash the filter, and plug again. (though it would be a bit costly IMO for just that)


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it doesn't help that my mom is a smoker and that we have a dog too. But thank God for this *Metro Vacuum ED500*.


Was that the result of the Datavac? Looks good.









So is it safe for the fins to blow it with the Datavac? Always worried that it might mess up the fins.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Was that the result of the Datavac? Looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So is it safe for the fins to blow it with the Datavac? Always worried that it might mess up the fins.


Yup. I used it to get most of the dust out and then finished it off with a good rinse under the sink (plain water). I then used the Datavac again to blow all the excess water from the fins onto some newspaper (great for absorbing water..







). While it's a powerful vac, it certainly won't harm the fins.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> what about using it with QDCs? all you need to do is plug it in for a brief time, disconnect to wash the filter, and plug again. (though it would be a bit costly IMO for just that)


Not worth $60 to save a disposable $5 filter.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> what about using it with QDCs? all you need to do is plug it in for a brief time, disconnect to wash the filter, and plug again. (though it would be a bit costly IMO for just that)
> 
> 
> 
> Not worth $60 to save a disposable $5 filter.
Click to expand...

I may be reading this wrong but I doubt that anyone pays $60 for the convenience of blowing a filter off. Canned air is worse for the environment and so long as you got power you can do all kinds of things with that. Like, blow up your girlfriend on those cold lonely nights.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I may be reading this wrong but I doubt that anyone pays $60 for the convenience of blowing a filter off. Canned air is worse for the environment and so long as you got power you can do all kinds of things with that. Like, blow up your girlfriend on those cold lonely nights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> ~Ceadder


Wish there was a like buttom, for comments like this


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I may be reading this wrong but I doubt that anyone pays $60 for the convenience of blowing a filter off. Canned air is worse for the environment and so long as you got power you can do all kinds of things with that. Like, blow up your girlfriend on those cold lonely nights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> ~Ceadder


I have a 5 gallon portable air tank with an air chuck on it; I'm gonna cut the chuck off and put a fitting so I can always have compressed air . And my dad has a massive compressor on an 80 gallon tank, so I can fill it for free







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I may be reading this wrong but I doubt that anyone pays $60 for the convenience of blowing a filter off. Canned air is worse for the environment and so long as you got power you can do all kinds of things with that. Like, blow up your girlfriend on those cold lonely nights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 5 gallon portable air tank with an air chuck on it; I'm gonna cut the chuck off and put a fitting so I can always have compressed air . And my dad has a massive compressor on an 80 gallon tank, so I can fill it for free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Make sure that your dad's Compressor has a filter/water trap on it because I'm pretty sure that it's probably out in an un-insulated shop/garage. You don't want any water getting on your precious system after all. It's not good for our components. If he doesn't have one you might get him one for Xmas to pay for that free air.









~Ceadder


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Make sure that your dad's Compressor has a filter/water trap on it because I'm pretty sure that it's probably out in an un-insulated shop/garage. You don't want any water getting on your precious system after all. It's not good for our components. If he doesn't have one you might get him one for Xmas to pay for that free air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Good point. Though tbh, I never blow dust out while my system is running, and it's down for maintenance more than it's used lol.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Make sure that your dad's Compressor has a filter/water trap on it because I'm pretty sure that it's probably out in an un-insulated shop/garage. You don't want any water getting on your precious system after all. It's not good for our components. If he doesn't have one you might get him one for Xmas to pay for that free air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Most air compressors come with a condensation trap built in, if not in line, check at the bottom of the receiver tank.









Usually all you have to do is pull on the release valve and the moister comes out.

I use a air compressor with a ball needle valve on the end of my air gun, works a treat on rad's, but mind you, I reduced the pressure from 90PSI to 60PSI, at 90 I could see the fins moving slightly.


----------



## badtaylorx

really wish i had something better than my nokia to take some pics with. hafta do for now i guess.

here is my latest creation...built for my lil cousin







this is one of those 230x120x80mm "monster" rads by alphacool...paired with the HL black ice 140x280 it seems to handle the fx8350 and an amd hd 6970 just fine


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I may be reading this wrong but I doubt that anyone pays $60 for the convenience of blowing a filter off. Canned air is worse for the environment and so long as you got power you can do all kinds of things with that. Like, blow up your girlfriend on those cold lonely nights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> ~Ceadder


I may has miss interpreted what he thinking but in my mind he was suggesting adding Quick disconnects on each side of the filter and the either washing or replacing the filter if it fills with gunk. But if the filter is filling with gunk then there is a bigger issue needing attention than the filter. This is just my opinion. If the filter needs replacing chances are the loop needs cleaning or a good flushing and just pulling the filter while the loop is drained could be just as easy as using QD's depending on your fitting and loop arrangement.


----------



## wermad

All blocks in parallel. Makes it easy to plumb this huge case


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> All blocks in parallel. Makes it easy to plumb this huge case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've seen this done many times. Does it actually work ok? I can't fathom in my mind how water flows through the blocks. Do you have to have high pressure? When I get a second card, I plan to run parallel, but simply with 2 T-fittings.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I've seen this done many times. Does it actually work ok? I can't fathom in my mind how water flows through the blocks. Do you have to have high pressure? When I get a second card, I plan to run parallel, but simply with 2 T-fittings.


I've mainly ran my multi gpu(s) in parallel. This way I'm just adding a 5th. Water is basically entering all blocks at the same time and exiting together. I'm running a ddc 3.25 and it has the pressure to run this setup. It comes down to how you want to plumb your loop. I try to minimize the tube. I'm my previous case, the cpu block came after the gpus in series.

I'm only running a little bit more tube due to the larger case:


----------



## nleksan

Wermad - Good Lord-y, that is absolutely beautiful!! I bet you are absolutely loving the ridiculous amounts of space! If you don't already have a build log (or would it be a "transition log"?), start one so I can subscribe to it









Regarding the use of the fuel filter to flush components, I must say that is BRILLIANT! I personally don't have any fuel filters anywhere near that small (BMW Filters are ~12-15" long, so I never would have thought to use them), but I may make a trip to O'Reilly's to grab a few WIX Fuel Filters just for this (it's not like I'm not there enough already, lol). Especially as I am using Primoflex Pro LRT, the idea of having a "Quick-Disconnect-able" Fuel Filter to stick in the loop from time-to-time (run the pump with the PC off) to collect up any accumulated gunk is quite appealing. Heck, for that purpose I could probably get away with some ultra-cheap $1.50 fuel filters as they would just be used in a disposable fashion, and the looser pleats would be beneficial in that it wouldn't clog everything up quite so quickly.

ON ANOTHER NOTE...

I have been contemplating what to do in terms of increasing storage capacity for my Switch 810, as the bottom rad necessitated the removal of 3 of the 6 HDD bays. I also have been wondering how I would manage to fit MOAR RADS in the loop should the "need" arise.
Then I looked around and realized I have ~8-9 OEM PC Cases from Dell/HP/Compaq, plus a few non-OEM ones (but those have other futures in store), and I came up with a few ideas.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



First, I have been wanting to put some of my "old" parts to good use, specifically some/all of the following: Intel Core2Duo E8600/Athlon64x2 5800+/A64x2 4600+/Athlon II x2/AMD FX-51 (have Asus SK8V for FX51, but everything else needs new boards as I only have OEM Junk; specifically looking for a P5Q Premium), about 32GB DDR/26GB DDR2/18GB DDR3 RAM (plus >100 sticks of PC133, RAMBUS, SDRAM, etc), 3x80GB Samsung IDE/1x Seagate 7200.7 120GB IDE/1x Maxtor Diamonmax Plus8 40GB IDE/1x WD Caviar SE 120GB IDE (WD1200JB)/1x WD Caviar SE 80GB SATA (WD800BB)/1x Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 200GB SATA/1x Toshiba 20GB IDE/2x Toshiba 2.5" 160GB IDE/1x WD 2.5" 320GB SATA/1x Hitachi 2.5" 160GB IDE/and about a dozen more HDD's, and literally hundreds up on hundreds of other misc stuff.


So as I was thinking of how to go about doing a Home Media Server (+ Home Server for Backups, etc), I thought I'd just take two of the HP Cases and make a "double wide".

That got me thinking about my water-cooled Switch....
One of the OEM Cases I have is for a Dell Optiplex 980, so it's nice and small but JUST tall enough and JUST wide enough to fit 2-3 360 (280's would be much easier fit, though) rads inside, basically turning it into something similar to the Danger Den (RIP) RAD-BOX.
I kept looking and trying to imagine the best way to do this, when I realized that if I were to use one of the OEM PC cases like the Dell E510, HP Pavilion, or OLD Compaq ones, I would have tons of room for radiators while at the same time being able to fit the pumps, a res, AND fill one part of the case with HDD trays; I measured the Compaq and it could hold ~11-14 HDD's with about 6-9mm of space between each, meaning ample cooling (although I will likely never need that much HDD space). A simple piece of aluminum could create a 2-sectioned case, where the front or bottom with the HDD's would be entirely sectioned off from the rads/pumps/etc.

I guess my question is, would this be worthwhile? Is it feasible to have HDD's in a second case, rather than in the main one (if so, I could remove the second HDD cage and get much better airflow in my Switch)? This would likely be a "work on it in free time" kind of project, as I don't have a "need" for more rad space yet, but as I add more blocks and more GPU's, I will continue adding radiators despite it being complete overkill.

Anyway, thanks for the opinions!


----------



## kyismaster

We have an awesome phillyd in the house.



http://www.overclock.net/t/1318926/build-log-folding-team-competition-build-project-rainuke#post_18426454


----------



## wermad

My flow is significantly better with this loop...


----------



## golfergolfer

What are the thoughts on Feser tubing? I would be getting some clear stuff and I have had primochill but it was full of plasticizer... The reason why I say Feser is because I would be buying from Dazmode and that is all he sells.


----------



## _REAPER_

If you want to flush your rad you can use 2L bottle of COKE, use that then flush with water. the Coke will clean the RAD quite well just make sure you flush the rad after you use the coke.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> What are the thoughts on Feser tubing? I would be getting some clear stuff and I have had primochill but it was full of plasticizer... The reason why I say Feser is because I would be buying from Dazmode and that is all he sells.


I got some during FrozenCPU's Black Friday sale and it seems to be on par, if not better, than my Primochill tubing.


----------



## protzman

primochill is garb. anything is better than it!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> primochill is garb. anything is better than it!


The newer one yeah. But the older version which I still have running in my loop for the past 2 years has been great to me. Much more flexible and less prone to plasticizer leech.


----------



## nyk20z3

I use a pair of Snips/tin cutter to cut my tubing -


----------



## wermad

ordered some Duralene. I'm hoping it holds and shows of my blue-green dye


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I got some during FrozenCPU's Black Friday sale and it seems to be on par, if not better, than my Primochill tubing.


Has there been any plasticizer leakage in it? and what color did you get? I am planning on the clear as I want to use some dye...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> primochill is garb. anything is better than it!


I agree with this! My last usage of primochill looked like there was (as described by another member) cream cheese inside it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> The newer one yeah. But the older version which I still have running in my loop for the past 2 years has been great to me. Much more flexible and less prone to plasticizer leech.


Wow thats great







guess i got the new stuff








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ordered some Duralene. I'm hoping it holds and shows of my blue-green dye










I want duralene too heard it is the best...

So I should have no problems using it then? There are no reports of anyone using it who had any plasticizer problems or clouding?


----------



## DrakeZ

hey guys, i just switched to intel and re install my loop
i can't find my camera, sorry for the bad quality, taken with my phone



and here's my temp, i want to know if my temp is okay or not with this setup

Black Ice Pro III push
EK Supreme HF
EK DPC 4.0
EK 250 basic
ambient temp is around 30-33


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> hey guys, i just switched to intel and re install my loop
> i can't find my camera, sorry for the bad quality, taken with my phone
> 
> and here's my temp, i want to know if my temp is okay or not with this setup
> Black Ice Pro III push
> EK Supreme HF
> EK DPC 4.0
> EK 250 basic
> ambient temp is around 30-33


Looking good on that ambient, you can try to oc it and youll get the most out of your big rad. Is that a 360 rad?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> hey guys, i just switched to intel and re install my loop
> i can't find my camera, sorry for the bad quality, taken with my phone
> 
> and here's my temp, i want to know if my temp is okay or not with this setup
> Black Ice Pro III push
> EK Supreme HF
> EK DPC 4.0
> EK 250 basic
> ambient temp is around 30-33


seems to me like your reservoir is filled with air bubbles. if that's the case you wont get as good temps. gotta make sure there's no air in your loop.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> What are the thoughts on Feser tubing? I would be getting some clear stuff and I have had primochill but it was full of plasticizer... The reason why I say Feser is because I would be buying from Dazmode and that is all he sells.


I'm using feser 3/8 5/8th from dazmode and I have no plasticizer issues with my mayhems pastel. I have only been up and running for a short time though. I feel like a little over a month only.


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Looking good on that ambient, you can try to oc it and youll get the most out of your big rad. Is that a 360 rad?


i was oc ed a bit and test it only for a couple of minutes so i don't know if my system stable or not
here's the result, maybe the temp was too high, wasn't it?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> seems to me like your reservoir is filled with air bubbles. if that's the case you wont get as good temps. gotta make sure there's no air in your loop.


i didin't notice any air bubbles in water block
my resevoir filled with air bubbles maybe because the waterfall like in my res and make some bubbles


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> -snip-
> Especially as I am using Primoflex Pro LRT, the idea of having a "Quick-Disconnect-able" Fuel Filter to stick in the loop from time-to-time (run the pump with the PC off) to collect up any accumulated gunk is quite appealing. Heck, for that purpose I could probably get away with some ultra-cheap $1.50 fuel filters as they would just be used in a disposable fashion, and the looser pleats would be beneficial in that it wouldn't clog everything up quite so quickly.
> ON ANOTHER NOTE...
> -snip-
> So as I was thinking of how to go about doing a Home Media Server (+ Home Server for Backups, etc), I thought I'd just take two of the HP Cases and make a "double wide".
> That got me thinking about my water-cooled Switch....
> -snip-
> Is it feasible to have HDD's in a second case, rather than in the main one (if so, I could remove the second HDD cage and get much better airflow in my Switch)? This would likely be a "work on it in free time" kind of project, as I don't have a "need" for more rad space yet, but as I add more blocks and more GPU's, I will continue adding radiators despite it being complete overkill.
> Anyway, thanks for the opinions!


1) Maybe a stupid question, but wouldn't it just be cheaper, easier, and safer to simply replace your tubing rather than come up with ways to clean all the 'gunk' out of your loop on a regular basis? Not to mention even with a filter you still could have chunks getting caught in your blocks and not making it to the filter at all.









2) Don't know if you've considered the alternatives, but I would highly recommend checking out the Amahi project. I ditched my MS Home Sever when they dropped drive pooling and I love it for storing backups as well as storing/streaming all my BDs, DVDs, CDs, etc... and it's fast and comparatively stable (Fedora vs NT).

3) I understand that you're basically looking to undertake a 'project' rather than looking for a quick solution - so on that end I say GO FOR IT! (Provided you take tons of pictures and keep us in the loop - pun intended). However, as far as moving your drives outside your case... you could just get an eSata external cage and mod it (or leave it for that matter) to match the colors/style of your case. Might discover in the long run it wound up being cheaper too...







I've seen THESE come up on ebay from time to time for less than $100 before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> i didin't notice any air bubbles in water block
> my resevoir filled with air bubbles maybe because the waterfall like in my res and make some bubbles


Is your loop completely silent or do you hear gurgling noises from time to time? I find it hard to believe with that much 'churn' in your reservoir that you aren't sucking some of that air back into your loop.


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Is your loop completely silent or do you hear gurgling noises from time to time? I find it hard to believe with that much 'churn' in your reservoir that you aren't sucking some of that air back into your loop.


sometimes i heard gurgling noise but it only occurred once or twice per hour i think

so how do i fix it? move all the tube to bottom or fully filled the res?


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Make sure that your dad's Compressor has a filter/water trap on it because I'm pretty sure that it's probably out in an un-insulated shop/garage. You don't want any water getting on your precious system after all. It's not good for our components. If he doesn't have one you might get him one for Xmas to pay for that free air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I made this for my shop. I had a friend give me an August West soot sweeper. It blows out an enormous amount of air so I vented it out one of my basement window. I built a wooden box and mounted the suction end in the bottom of it. I place any computer in the box, put the plastic curtain down, Start the unit and blow all the dust out with a small vacuum. All the dust or most anyways gets sucked into the soot sweeper. I work on a lot of folks PC's and do not like breathing in their dust. It works the bomb diggity. Tell me what you all think....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> ~ snip ~
> 
> 
> i didin't notice any air bubbles in water block
> my resevoir filled with air bubbles maybe because the waterfall like in my res and make some bubbles


Unless you're willing to accept a lot of entrained air in the cooling loop water, (which hurts efficiency) you need to run a tube internally in the res on the incoming line so that the incoming water exits below the surface of the res water.

That waterfall effect has a rather negative consequence as far as cooling goes because it's constantly aerating the water.

Add a tube and a bit higher res level, and you'll get better temps, if that's you goal.

Darlene


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> sometimes i heard gurgling noise but it only occurred once or twice per hour i think
> so how do i fix it? move all the tube to bottom or fully filled the res?


Your temp seems to be a bit too high, how long has it been since you first start up you loop
Took me 2 days to completely remove all the bubbles from the top rad. But i didnt see any drastic change in my temp at ambient 23 i get 33 idle and around 55-57 on load, thats 1x360 and 1x240 cooling 2gpu and cpu, and im using 2 ddc pump which adds more heat to my loop.
Have you peeled off the plastic cover on your cpu waterblock? Some people forgot to peel it off, or have you ever taken apart the cpu block for cleaning? Some people did not put it back properly resulting in bad temps


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Has there been any plasticizer leakage in it? and what color did you get? I am planning on the clear as I want to use some dye...
> I agree with this! My last usage of primochill looked like there was (as described by another member) cream cheese inside it.
> Wow thats great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess i got the new stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want duralene too heard it is the best...
> So I should have no problems using it then? There are no reports of anyone using it who had any plasticizer problems or clouding?


I hate to be the one to rain on the Durelene party (I was hopeful too), but it has been a few months now since I installed mine and it has started to cloud. I didn't notice until I tore my rig down yesterday to sleeve some cables. I am running distilled, Mayhems Deep Blue and a kill coil.

The first two pieces are a few months old. The third piece is an unused scrap of the same.



On an upside, it's very inexpensive - .45c - .69c/ft at Sidewinder depending on the size. So replacing it isn't going to break the bank, it's just a PIA.

Pics after the sleeving and new Durelene were installed. Also rerouted tubing with some behind mobo tray.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys im using Masterkleer Purple UV tubing, only company that makes this color, but these tubes have the plasticizer issue, i can see the white coating in my tubes (rigs taken apart at the moment) and when i removed my rez i had to wipe the plastic clean.

Will this hurt my rig? will it affect temps? will it damage my radiators, blocks or pumps?

i want to keep using this tubing because the plasticizer isnt noticeable when everything is put together, and masterkleer is the only company with th color i want, but if this issue is damaging i dont want to continue using it....


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> I made this for my shop. I had a friend give me an August West soot sweeper. It blows out an enormous amount of air so I vented it out one of my basement window. I built a wooden box and mounted the suction end in the bottom of it. I place any computer in the box, put the plastic curtain down, Start the unit and blow all the dust out with a small vacuum. All the dust or most anyways gets sucked into the soot sweeper. I work on a lot of folks PC's and do not like breathing in their dust. It works the bomb diggity. Tell me what you all think....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Super cool idea! Can you paint stuff in there too?


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Unless you're willing to accept a lot of entrained air in the cooling loop water, (which hurts efficiency) you need to run a tube internally in the res on the incoming line so that the incoming water exits below the surface of the res water.
> That waterfall effect has a rather negative consequence as far as cooling goes because it's constantly aerating the water.
> Add a tube and a bit higher res level, and you'll get better temps, if that's you goal.
> Darlene


yeah maybe because the waterfall effect, i'll try later to add tube and see if that make my temp better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Your temp seems to be a bit too high, how long has it been since you first start up you loop
> Took me 2 days to completely remove all the bubbles from the top rad. But i didnt see any drastic change in my temp at ambient 23 i get 33 idle and around 55-57 on load, thats 1x360 and 1x240 cooling 2gpu and cpu, and im using 2 ddc pump which adds more heat to my loop.
> Have you peeled off the plastic cover on your cpu waterblock? Some people forgot to peel it off, or have you ever taken apart the cpu block for cleaning? Some people did not put it back properly resulting in bad temps


it has been only one day since i start up this loop
well i taken apart the cpu block before to clean it, i'll check it later

here's the several suspect why my temp is so high:
- waterfall effect on res?
- cpu block didin't put it back properly?
- ambient temp? (around 30-33)

anyway on my previous cpu, 955 BE which has 4.2GHz clock, the temp on full load is around 48-50 with the same setup expect the res
here's my old post http://www.overclock.net/t/1077899/worklog-project-r-e-d#post_14436898


----------



## TwentyCent

I feel like I'd like to have you as my neighbor haha


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Super cool idea! Can you paint stuff in there too?


I would imagine you could but the filter inside it a couple hundred bucks. Paint will make it hard to clean that filter. It makes a great air exchanger. Smoke filled room gone in seconds....really. I use to fix computers for next to nothing just to have something to do. Most if not all computers are filled with nasty dust. When the lady said I could have it that was the first thing I thought of. Took me about a year to set up my shop and install it.
Here is something else I have in my shop. Another friend gave me this.



In the late 1800's before the electric cash register they made them from wood. Made in Nashua NH at Nashua Cash Register. It still has the stamp on it.
It has a set of keys on the bottom that you can change the combination to anything you want. If you pull the wrong keys and pull the draw in ring s a bell to let the store keeper know someone is trying to rip him off. What do you think of that.


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I hate to be the one to rain on the Durelene party (I was hopeful too), but it has been a few months now since I installed mine and it has started to cloud. I didn't notice until I tore my rig down yesterday to sleeve some cables. I am running distilled, Mayhems Deep Blue and a kill coil.
> The first two pieces are a few months old. The third piece is an unused scrap of the same.
> 
> On an upside, it's very inexpensive - .45c - .69c/ft at Sidewinder depending on the size. So replacing it isn't going to break the bank, it's just a PIA.
> Pics after the sleeving and new Durelene were installed. Also rerouted tubing with some behind mobo tray.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really sweet looking. Its too bad you could not get rid of the coiled wires from in between those video cards. I can only imagine what better temps you would get with the extra air flow thru those huge water blocks. Thats only my opinion. I myself need a new case with room in the back for wires.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Has there been any plasticizer leakage in it? and what color did you get? I am planning on the clear as I want to use some dye...
> I agree with this! My last usage of primochill looked like there was (as described by another member) cream cheese inside it.
> Wow thats great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess i got the new stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want duralene too heard it is the best...
> So I should have no problems using it then? There are no reports of anyone using it who had any plasticizer problems or clouding?


That's one of the tube's I keep hearing holds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I hate to be the one to rain on the Durelene party (I was hopeful too), but it has been a few months now since I installed mine and it has started to cloud. I didn't notice until I tore my rig down yesterday to sleeve some cables. I am running distilled, Mayhems Deep Blue and a kill coil.
> The first two pieces are a few months old. The third piece is an unused scrap of the same.
> 
> On an upside, it's very inexpensive - .45c - .69c/ft at Sidewinder depending on the size. So replacing it isn't going to break the bank, it's just a PIA.
> Pics after the sleeving and new Durelene were installed. Also rerouted tubing with some behind mobo tray.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm crossing my fingers but from your post it may last longer than primochill. Mine is caking up the plasticizing and it sucks


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I'm using feser 3/8 5/8th from dazmode and I have no plasticizer issues with my mayhems pastel. I have only been up and running for a short time though. I feel like a little over a month only.


Well a month is a month and hopefully it will continue to be ok








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I hate to be the one to rain on the Durelene party (I was hopeful too), but it has been a few months now since I installed mine and it has started to cloud. I didn't notice until I tore my rig down yesterday to sleeve some cables. I am running distilled, Mayhems Deep Blue and a kill coil.
> The first two pieces are a few months old. The third piece is an unused scrap of the same.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On an upside, it's very inexpensive - .45c - .69c/ft at Sidewinder depending on the size. So replacing it isn't going to break the bank, it's just a PIA.
> Pics after the sleeving and new Durelene were installed. Also rerouted tubing with some behind mobo tray.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ahh this really sucks I was hopeful for this to have 0 problems...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's one of the tube's I keep hearing holds.


Well I guess that there is no tubing out there that will have 0 problems... I guess I might have to replace the tubing every few months by the sound of it :/ Just to make sure no cream cheese grows on the inside.

Thanks for your help everyone


----------



## Convex

Just Finished my build for my woman









i just noticed the 2 hanging sata cables haha


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys im using Masterkleer Purple UV tubing, only company that makes this color, but these tubes have the plasticizer issue, i can see the white coating in my tubes (rigs taken apart at the moment) and when i removed my rez i had to wipe the plastic clean.
> Will this hurt my rig? will it affect temps? will it damage my radiators, blocks or pumps?
> i want to keep using this tubing because the plasticizer isnt noticeable when everything is put together, and masterkleer is the only company with th color i want, but if this issue is damaging i dont want to continue using it....


Bump


----------



## kkorky

Hey i dont mean to be impolite, but there is a thread that addresses the tubing issue-try there for your queries









http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 1) Maybe a stupid question, but wouldn't it just be cheaper, easier, and safer to simply replace your tubing rather than come up with ways to clean all the 'gunk' out of your loop on a regular basis? Not to mention even with a filter you still could have chunks getting caught in your blocks and not making it to the filter at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Don't know if you've considered the alternatives, but I would highly recommend checking out the Amahi project. I ditched my MS Home Sever when they dropped drive pooling and I love it for storing backups as well as storing/streaming all my BDs, DVDs, CDs, etc... and it's fast and comparatively stable (Fedora vs NT).
> 3) I understand that you're basically looking to undertake a 'project' rather than looking for a quick solution - so on that end I say GO FOR IT! (Provided you take tons of pictures and keep us in the loop - pun intended). However, as far as moving your drives outside your case... you could just get an eSata external cage and mod it (or leave it for that matter) to match the colors/style of your case. Might discover in the long run it wound up being cheaper too...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen THESE come up on ebay from time to time for less than $100 before.


Thanks so much for the info!
1) It would indeed be safer to replace my tubing beforehand, absolutely; however, "easier" is not necessarily the case as I would have to redo the tubing regardless, and it would not be any cheaper as I already have the ten feet of PrimoFlex Pro LRT that I ordered from Jab-Tech (I think) way back when. I have been going SO SLOW at finishing my build as I keep running into small bumps that end up being "big" bumps due to my schedule with classes and such (plus, girlfriend does not like when she comes over and I spend 8 hours working on PC, and I am sure many can relate!). That said, I am running the tubing for the last time today actually (although I wish I had been able to get more feedback on which way to run my loop :/ ).
Also, the filter idea was just an idea, throwing it out into the ether to see if it was feasible, and apparantly the ether (i.e. you) spit it back out as NOT feasible, so now I know







I still think it would be valuable for "final flushing" once the loop is assembled and ready for leak testing, but it is also an extra step that literally everyone has done fine without thus far, so I am probably just being overly-anal about it haha.
2) Very interesting! I am going to do some more reading up on this as it seems like it has a ton of potential benefits for my application. The only problem is that I, sadly, do not know Linux outside of the Android OS (and I call myself a geek *hangs head*), so I have been leaning towards a Windows-based OS simply out of familiarity/comfort-level/initial-ease-of-use/etc. That said, I am always willing to learn anything new!
The one thing that I would "question" would be Amahi's use in a system that would on occasion serve as a "backup gaming PC", i.e. for when a friend is over (instead of lugging his or her rig to my house) or when I want to play on my 55" LED-LCD 120hz television with 5.1/7.2/11.3 channel surround sound (multiple speaker setups; for games, I love my Cerwin-Vega VE-12's for the FR/FL Mains; not the most "Hi-Fi" but they just love to be fed hundreds of watts of power and for action-y games like most FPS's, they are perfect, and literally shake the entire house when something explodes; they overpower all of my subs except for my Pioneer dual-12" 2000W units lol).
I am trying to make as "Multipurpose" of a machine as possible, one that will be able to run [email protected] 24/7, work as a home file/media/backup server at the same time, AND be used as a "gaming" PC in the aforementioned scenarios. I know that the more things you ask a single machine to do, the less it excels at each individual task, but until I have ~$5-10k to really build a true home server (going to get into the whole "Home Automation" thing, see how far it has come since '08-'09), I think that I can fab something together that will be at least "acceptable". Plus, I have always wanted to try my hand at "building" my own case ("building" because it would just be some cutting, welding, and painting to make a double-wide out of two already-existing cases, as I understand it), and I have more than enough unused OEM cases to go around. In fact, I am also thinking of turning one into a test-bench of sorts by basically "turning it inside out" as well as adding a few things myself








3) Haha, I will definitely be sure to take a ton of pictures! I have been trying to work on my photography skills (I'm not exactly a great photographer; more of an "audiographer" if you will, as I have been doing recording/mixing/editing for local musicians for years, learning as I go), and this would be a good way to practice. I just need to get a hold of my girlfriend's brother's Canon D5 Mark III or even his T4i, as both allow for very easy High-Dynamic Range photography compared to my D3100 or D5100, as they let you composite HDR photos right in the camera (burst mode will take 5 shots, each at a different exposure; not manual fiddling around and much much easier to do without a tripod). Especially since he has a few very nice Macro Lenses, and I have none (I especially love the EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM lens as it gives very "cinematic"-feeling photos, but GAH if I broke it), although the AF-S DX NIKKOR 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR that I have, in addition to a 55-180 (?) NIKKOR lens, does a pretty good job, it just can't get the super-fine high-contrast high-detail photos like his D5mk3 with the the EF 16-35 can. Plus, the photos I have taken with that combo (the D5 Mark III + 16-35mm f/2.8L II lens) while learning HDR photography came out incredibly well even before Post, and I want to have the chance to take some "professional"-looking high-dynamic range pics of my rig once it's finished, as well as some long-exposure pics because I think they look awesome when done properly (of water-cooled PC's, as the water looks like a "laser-like blur" if properly lit).
Anyway...


Spoiler: Warning: WalloText



I am very much into the whole "keep computer parts out of the landfills" thing, so I am trying to reuse as much stuff as possible that I have lying around. That was a big factor in deciding to go ahead and begin planning for this project. While 3-5yr old computer stuff is "ancient" for many of the uses we at OCN would look to use them for, they are often more than capable of doing just about everything aside from playing the newest games, doing well with HD/HD+(2k/4k/etc) Video Editing, very high resolution photo editing, and so forth. However, a C2D E8600 overclocked to FSB400-450 x10-11multi (4.4-4.5Ghz), with 4x2GB DDR2-800 4-4-4-10 DIMMs (DDR2-800/900/1200/1350 @ 4-4-4-12/5-5-5-12/4-5-5-11/etc), hopefully in an Asus P5Q-Premium Motherboard (if I can find one), equipped with a decent LSI/Adaptec/Areca PCIe2.0x8 8-16x Internal-Port SAS/SATA Hardware RAID Controller Card (with a BBU + anywhere from 1GB DDR2-533 to 4GB DDR3-1333 ECC RAM Cache) and a halfway-decent Intel 2x10GbE NIC (as an adjunct to the onboard 4x1GbE ports), rocking a Creative X-Fi Ti HD or Asus XONAR Essence ST/STX (or Xonar DG/DGX) sound card, and sporting a pair or more of GTX280s/GTX460s/GTX470s/GTX480s or even a mix of GTX2xx/4xx cards in SLI with an 8800GTS(G80 or G92 so 640MB or 512MB)/GT/GTX or 9800GT/GTX/GTX+/GTX2 to help Fold but work as PhysX card on occasion (friends and I LOVE BL and now that BL2 is out, I have a feeling I will start to be having a lot of people over, a lot of the time). Add a Blu-Ray Reader (maybe burner) and a DVD-R/W drive for playing/ripping BR discs and DVD's as well as copying DVDs/CD's, of course. THEN, put the OS on a pair of striped SSD's (or just one), and fill the rest up with as many Hard Drives as I can pack in/afford, running the MB ports in JBOD to free up the CPU, while keeping a gigantic RAID100/10/50/60 array on the RAID controller, or possibly even add in a PERC6/i to allow for a second independent array; that would allow for a completely independent and gigantic RAID0 across 8 discs, say WD RE4 1-2TB HDD's or even 8x 300-450GB Seagate Cheetah 15k7 SAS 15,000rpm HDD's (if I can get them from my friend, as he often has dozens of extras; the place he works changes their SAS drives every 6 months, which is crazy, but they sell him the old ones for ~$3-15ea depending on the size). That would allow for some major redundancy on one array, while giving throughput that absolutely saturates the LAN on the other.

The only problem I'm going to have is finding the water cooling stuff to go with these "older" parts... I want to have the CPU under water, the GPU's under water (full coverage blocks preferably, but depending on the GPU's it may be fine to have GPU-only), and also the Motherboard's VRMs/MOSFET area, Northbridge, and Southbridge as I know the P35/P45 chipsets can get hot, and that keeping the NB/SB as absolutely cold as possible vastly increases stability.
However, I would also want to try and water-cool the RAID Card(s), as they get hot as ****, and it would be pretty awesome. That's a bit of an under-taking, but I'm up for it.
The hard drives would simply be in a separate "chamber" from the main components, so 4x 120x38mm fans blowing air across them and sitting between the HDD racks and the case wall, as well as another 4x 120x38mm fans on the inside of the case mounted to the HDD racks "pulling" the air through, would be plenty of cooling I would think.
As for rads, I would be able to fit something like 2x 360's + 1x 280 + 1x 240 easily, but I might just go with something like a SuperNOVA 1260 or MORA 1080/1260, or maybe the newer Koolance 9x120 rad as it's a wicked 18fpi, possibly with ~5ft of tubing between it and the case (as well as QDC fittings), and have the rad located in one of the basement storage rooms or even behind the False Wall in my Home Theater area (which are all sound-proofed) so that I could use some seriously powerful fans and pumps yet hear nothing, while the computer is in an actual living space. If I could build a decent rad-stand or "RAD BOX", I could integrate the pumps and res all into one unit with the rad, and open up a ton of extra space in the case.


Anyway, kinda thinking out loud here, but thanks for the support







I apologize for the wordy post :S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> I made this for my shop. I had a friend give me an August West soot sweeper. It blows out an enormous amount of air so I vented it out one of my basement window. I built a wooden box and mounted the suction end in the bottom of it. I place any computer in the box, put the plastic curtain down, Start the unit and blow all the dust out with a small vacuum. All the dust or most anyways gets sucked into the soot sweeper. I work on a lot of folks PC's and do not like breathing in their dust. It works the bomb diggity. Tell me what you all think....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is an absolutely brilliant idea!
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I hate to be the one to rain on the Durelene party (I was hopeful too), but it has been a few months now since I installed mine and it has started to cloud. I didn't notice until I tore my rig down yesterday to sleeve some cables. I am running distilled, Mayhems Deep Blue and a kill coil.
> The first two pieces are a few months old. The third piece is an unused scrap of the same.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On an upside, it's very inexpensive - .45c - .69c/ft at Sidewinder depending on the size. So replacing it isn't going to break the bank, it's just a PIA.
> Pics after the sleeving and new Durelene were installed. Also rerouted tubing with some behind mobo tray.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I must say, I absolutely love how your Switch turned out!! One of the VERY few I've seen that have kept the lower HDD bay, and removed the top one. Quite unique and very awesome









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> yeah maybe because the waterfall effect, i'll try later to add tube and see if that make my temp better
> it has been only one day since i start up this loop
> well i taken apart the cpu block before to clean it, i'll check it later
> here's the several suspect why my temp is so high:
> - waterfall effect on res?
> - cpu block didin't put it back properly?
> - ambient temp? (around 30-33)
> anyway on my previous cpu, 955 BE which has 4.2GHz clock, the temp on full load is around 48-50 with the same setup expect the res
> here's my old post http://www.overclock.net/t/1077899/worklog-project-r-e-d#post_14436898


I would:
- Reseat Block
- Reapply TIM (try "tinting"; essentially applying TIM to both surfaces, rubbing it in, and then using a fine edge to scrape it off, which ensures that the TIM ends up in all the little crevices; then, just use a smaller amount of TIM when you mount the two to account for any convex/concave surfaces...it works quite well, especially with pastes like PK-1 that are thicker and don't need to cure)
- Ensure that your Radiators are fully bled, and same for the blocks (a water bubble in either could cause high temps!)
- Check that all fans are working properly
- Take temps using a digital thermometer or, better yet, an infrared thermometer as they will be MUCH more accurate than any software monitoring tools (if you are loaded with cash, get a laser thermometer, they are very awesome! lol)...
- CHECK DELTA-T!! If the d-T is within-normal-limits, then the issue is not likely to be with the water loop, and more likely with something else. This is one of the quickest ways to rule out the H2O equipment, IMO, but don't rely on just having a good delta-T as meaning that there is nothing wrong with the loop ("measure twice, cut once" kind of mentality!)


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> Really sweet looking. Its too bad you could not get rid of the coiled wires from in between those video cards. I can only imagine what better temps you would get with the extra air flow thru those huge water blocks. Thats only my opinion. I myself need a new case with room in the back for wires.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Thanks. It's a work in progress as always - still needs more cables sleeved in the back, and yes, wire management. However my GPU temps under 100% load (just ran Kombuster and FurMark to check) never exceeded 39c.







(That's with the current ambient temp of 22.9c). They were a little warmer this past summer. I recall 42c during one marathon gaming session when ambient temps were around 26-27c.
I am mainly attempting to maintain good airflow through my case and past my mobo due to the historical relevance of failing MOSFETS with this particular MSi board. I have a mild OC (4.3GHz) on the proc and a slight vol increase (1.45v).


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> hey guys, i just switched to intel and re install my loop
> i can't find my camera, sorry for the bad quality, taken with my phone
> 
> and here's my temp, i want to know if my temp is okay or not with this setup
> Black Ice Pro III push
> EK Supreme HF
> EK DPC 4.0
> EK 250 basic
> ambient temp is around 30-33


Fill the res up more and see if that helps as well.


----------



## eskamobob1

nice build drake









and i finaly just got the rest of my parts yesterday (atleast the majority of what i need)... i should be gettin a build log up in the next few weeks (once i make my desk)


----------



## animal0307

Whats the general consensus about those self equalizing plugs? The ones that equalize the pressure in the loop so it doesn't "explode"


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Whats the general consensus about those self equalizing plugs? The ones that equalize the pressure in the loop so it doesn't "explode"


My question is, where is all that pressure gonna come from? Boiling coolant? Suddenly exposing your rig to vacuum?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Whats the general consensus about those self equalizing plugs? The ones that equalize the pressure in the loop so it doesn't "explode"


Pressure should be the same throughout the loop... But I'll leave this for B Negative to answer.


----------



## rusasus

*My first time water cooling build*.


*Core i7 930 4ghz
12 GB ram 1600mhz
powercolor 5870 cf
800w cm silent pro
Gigabyte X58A-UD3R

Danger Den DD-CPX Pro 12V 3 Pin Powered Pump - 237 GPH
XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Low Profile Split Fin Radiator
XSPC 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Black
PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall
Danger Den MPC-CPU CPU Liquid Cooling Block*



Upgrading to 3770k and 7970 in a couple of months.

trying to resolve my motherboard/radiator issue, suggestions would be nice


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Whats the general consensus about those self equalizing plugs? The ones that equalize the pressure in the loop so it doesn't "explode"
> 
> 
> 
> My question is, where is all that pressure gonna come from? Boiling coolant? Suddenly exposing your rig to vacuum?
Click to expand...

The pressure comes from filling your loop completely while it is running. I did that. I then shut it down with the cap off the system an OMG u'd think my Loop was related to a volcano when I shut it off. The Distilled came right back up at me. Good thing I had paper towels in my hand. I mopped up the overflow quickly enough that the liquid I didn't get ended up following the tubing right to the top of the Reservoir.

Then of course it works to offset the pressure for the higher LPM pumps and multiple pump systems. Allowing air to escape, intake to offset the pressure to keep it from collapsing the tubing. Basically offsetting the intake/exhaust needs of the loop. I would recommend one to allow for better fill during refill maintenance.

Sorry if I didn't say it exactly right, I won't be around much after tomorrow. Going on an extended Walkabout visiting Kansas for the Holidays, then Texas, New Mexico, Nevada, California and Oregon before coming back to Washington. Gonna be gone for at least 4 months. So please bear with me if I'm inactive during this time. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year all.









~Ceadder


----------



## ginger_nuts

Ceadder, do you mean literal walkabout? or metaphoric?

If literal, how far do you plan on travelling? Sounds impressive.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Ceadder, do you mean literal walkabout? or metaphoric?
> 
> If literal, how far do you plan on travelling? Sounds impressive.


Flying to Kansas, then making the return by Car. Gonna stop in at my Bro Benny Ten Pin's place and catch up with him, then me and the Girlfriend are coming back and taking in the sites to visit the old stomping grounds in Cali. Gonna visit the new Stadium to get my picher took in front of Team HQ and Pac Bell Ball Park after visiting her family for a bit, then we're headed North up either the 101 or I-5 through Oregon and back home in Washington. We're wintering in Kansas to stay off the Winter Roads an hopefully I will be able to do some work in the area to replenish my bank account. So it's holiday/work/frack around trip for the most part.









So yeah it's pretty much literal.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> If you want to flush your rad you can use 2L bottle of COKE, use that then flush with water. the Coke will clean the RAD quite well just make sure you flush the rad after you use the coke.


Not a bad idea. Coke has a fairly low pH.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Whats the general consensus about those self equalizing plugs? The ones that equalize the pressure in the loop so it doesn't "explode"
> 
> 
> 
> Pressure should be the same throughout the loop... But I'll leave this for B Negative to answer.
Click to expand...

Air pressure, seeing how water in non compressible. As the water in the loop heats up it expands and the air has no where to go in a sealed system, so it compresses and pressure builds. I think It might be the same for a completely full loop the only thing that can expand is the tubing and it puts strain on the system and something fails, tubing or possible and acrylic res/top.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> If you want to flush your rad you can use 2L bottle of COKE, use that then flush with water. the Coke will clean the RAD quite well just make sure you flush the rad after you use the coke.
> 
> 
> 
> Not a bad idea. Coke has a fairly low pH.
Click to expand...

Okay for the PH, quite acid. What about the sugar in the coke? D: Man, no. I wouldn't do it myself.


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Okay for the PH, quite acid. What about the sugar in the coke? D: Man, no. I wouldn't do it myself.


What about White Vinegar?


----------



## d3adsy

Not a WC club member and not a WC but i have a question. How fast will the cooled CPU or GPU die if the pump goes out?


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3adsy*
> 
> Not a WC club member and not a WC but i have a question. How fast will the cooled CPU or GPU die if the pump goes out?


my computer shuts down (via coretemp) when the cpu reaches a blistering 70c


----------



## d3adsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> my computer shuts down (via coretemp) when the cpu reaches a blistering 70c


So there is no way do burn your system down if pump fails?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Okay for the PH, quite acid. What about the sugar in the coke? D: Man, no. I wouldn't do it myself.


You will flush your RAD with water when your done with the COKE, have you ever put a dirty penny in COKE? same thing. Just ensure you flush your RAD with water when your done


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> What about White Vinegar?


That works good, very strong horrendous fumes come from it, so if anyone feels as if they can deal with the smell, then go ahead.
I just rinse mine out with water. I put water in my radiators, thumbs over the threads and shake away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3adsy*
> 
> Not a WC club member and not a WC but i have a question. How fast will the cooled CPU or GPU die if the pump goes out?


Pump failure is quite a rare case, MPC655's pumps from Swiftech have been reliable for many years.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> my computer shuts down (via coretemp) when the cpu reaches a blistering 70c


I always have coretemp running and I always have random glances at it every now and then on my icons.

Edit: that gives me an idea to set that feature up on coretemp's overheat protection, thank you very much.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3adsy*
> 
> So there is no way do burn your system down if pump fails?


Well, I guess if coretemp stopped working unexpectedly than I would have to rely on my bios shutting down my pc. Even with my pump off I can usually get into windows before it gets hot enough to shut off. Gotta love them solid states. I also have a bitspower flow meter, but my fluid is a little too dark to see it anymore oopps


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I would:
> - Reseat Block
> - Reapply TIM (try "tinting"; essentially applying TIM to both surfaces, rubbing it in, and then using a fine edge to scrape it off, which ensures that the TIM ends up in all the little crevices; then, just use a smaller amount of TIM when you mount the two to account for any convex/concave surfaces...it works quite well, especially with pastes like PK-1 that are thicker and don't need to cure)
> - Ensure that your Radiators are fully bled, and same for the blocks (a water bubble in either could cause high temps!)
> - Check that all fans are working properly
> - Take temps using a digital thermometer or, better yet, an infrared thermometer as they will be MUCH more accurate than any software monitoring tools (if you are loaded with cash, get a laser thermometer, they are very awesome! lol)...
> - CHECK DELTA-T!! If the d-T is within-normal-limits, then the issue is not likely to be with the water loop, and more likely with something else. This is one of the quickest ways to rule out the H2O equipment, IMO, but don't rely on just having a good delta-T as meaning that there is nothing wrong with the loop ("measure twice, cut once" kind of mentality!)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Fill the res up more and see if that helps as well.


okay i'll try all the advice asap, thank you guys!
oh anyway is the tube affect too? cause i have used this tube for almost one year i think

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> nice build drake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and i finaly just got the rest of my parts yesterday (atleast the majority of what i need)... i should be gettin a build log up in the next few weeks (once i make my desk)


thank you, i'll post more picture soon when i have my camera back









good luck with your build anyway


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3adsy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> my computer shuts down (via coretemp) when the cpu reaches a blistering 70c
> 
> 
> 
> So there is no way do burn your system down if pump fails?
Click to expand...

My motherboard allows me to make it shutdown at _n_°C, _n_ being a user-defined max. I set it to 40, to test, and after loading IBT the pc just *turned off*. So yeah, if you want a safety, you generally can set one.


----------



## Jorvin

Hi anybody knows if you can use the single G1/4 Thread on the back of the alphacool 480 as an inlet?


----------



## matan11

Here are some new pics from mine.





More and better Pics comming soon.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Hi anybody knows if you can use the single G1/4 Thread on the back of the alphacool 480 as an inlet?


You could but it would hinder the performance.


----------



## rusasus

Qwerty


----------



## rusasus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> Here are some new pics from mine.
> 
> 
> 
> More an better Pics comming soon.


nice and clean build !

Here is mine

*My first time water cooling build*.


*Core i7 930 4ghz
12 GB ram 1600mhz
powercolor 5870 cf
800w cm silent pro
Gigabyte X58A-UD3R

Danger Den DD-CPX Pro 12V 3 Pin Powered Pump - 237 GPH
XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Low Profile Split Fin Radiator
XSPC 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Black
PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall
Danger Den MPC-CPU CPU Liquid Cooling Block*



Upgrading to 3770k and 7970 in a couple of months.

trying to resolve my motherboard/radiator issue, suggestions would be nice


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> You could but it would hinder the performance.


This. Essentially you'd be making it a single pass radiator rather than a dual pass as far as I am aware. The single port side it a big chamber - so if you at least ran a Y on the other side (took an outlet from both sides and combined them after the radiator) you'd be maintaining the surface area - but you'd be halving the time the water spent in the rad itself... so you'd lose performance. I guess the upside is you'd also have less restriction - but it's not like that rad is going to be restrictive anyway and you'd generally want the water to take the longest to get through the rads so it can dump the heat there rather than carrying it to the next component in line.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> This. Essentially you'd be making it a single pass radiator rather than a dual pass as far as I am aware. The single port side it a big chamber - so if you at least ran a Y on the other side (took an outlet from both sides and combined them after the radiator) you'd be maintaining the surface area - but you'd be halving the time the water spent in the rad itself... so you'd lose performance. I guess the upside is you'd also have less restriction - but it's not like that rad is going to be restrictive anyway and you'd generally want the water to take the longest to get through the rads so it can dump the heat there rather than carrying it to the next component in line.


Ok thanks for fast answer don't want to lose performance, so i'll skip it


----------



## Michalius

Replied in your thread, but you'll need to cut the top of your case which will allow you to mount the radiator offset from the center, which will allow it to be physically over your motherboard without interfering.


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> Here are some new pics from mine.
> 
> 
> 
> More an better Pics comming soon.


Any worklog of that acrylic work? Im interested in tools etc


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3adsy*
> 
> So there is no way do burn your system down if pump fails?


It is possible, but not probable.
With all the built-in BIOS shutdowns and other thermal safety software we have today, a CPU will typically shut itself down before reaching critical heat levels. As I stated above, it is possible in the event of multiple fail-safe disrupts, but probably would only happen if all the protective measures were intentionally turned off.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The best of Multiplay i47







Sharing stand space with Coolmiester was great!!
Got good feed back on my build...and some more work in the pipeline.


----------



## wermad

^^^ Awesome. Yours is the best of the three imho.

So dual sockets where *are* the "It" thing atm?!?!?!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ Awesome. Yours is the best of the three imho.
> So dual sockets where *are* the "It" thing atm?!?!?!


Dunno Werm,i know this tho...once you have a dual CPU board,you wont go back to little ATX boards,they look so good in cases,they fill them just right.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dunno Werm,i know this tho...once you have a dual CPU board,you wont go back to little ATX boards,they look so good in cases,they fill them just right.


and i'm over here working on an itx build lol


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ Awesome. *Yours is the best of the three imho*.
> So dual sockets where *are* the "It" thing atm?!?!?!


Agreed.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The best of Multiplay i47
> 
> 
> 
> Sharing stand space with Coolmiester was great!!
> Got good feed back on my build...and some more work in the pipeline.


Hey, whose is the middle rig?









Good for you mate-nice to see hard work paying off









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have never owned a DCP pump but I'm on my second D5. In my experience they are very quiet. I actually got myself the new USB controlled one but its so quiet I just leave it on full power all the time.
> They are a bit chunkier than the DCP 4.0 but more then worth the bulk.


Do you mean the new PWM one that ive seen for sale at Frozen? If so whats controlling it like? Im guessing you use something like SpeedFan or something similar?
BTW does anyone know if these new D5s (PWM version) are available in Europe as yet?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How big is a D5 vario with EK TOP v2 compared to my current EK DCP 4.0?
> I got it from a friend who's shipping it on Monday, got it for real cheap ($40 including shipping), is it a good upgrade? I am not looking for a better water flow, but more for a quieter pump, I hope this D5 is quieter.


I have never owned a DCP pump but I'm on my second D5. In my experience they are very quiet. I actually got myself the new USB controlled one but its so quiet I just leave it on full power all the time.
They are a bit chunkier than the DCP 4.0 but more then worth the bulk.


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The best of Multiplay i47
> 
> 
> 
> Sharing stand space with Coolmiester was great!!
> Got good feed back on my build...and some more work in the pipeline.


All I can say is holy *****...That looks awesome. Just like my buddy say's "It doesn't matter if she can cook or clean as long as she looks pretty" But I'll bet you those cook as well.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys due to plasticizer issues with my masterkleer tubing, i am going to remove it from my system, and switch to primochill "PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing" which is supposedly fixed this plasticizer issue, problem is it only comes in clear at the moment.

So my main question is about Mayhems dyes which you all talk about, I am currently using distilled water and silver kill coil, and would like to keep it that way, can i just add mayhem's dye to my loop and that's it, or is there more to it?

is there more maintenance involved using dye ?

And lastly im looking on performance-pcs website at mayhems dyes and it says nothing about being UV reactive, do i need something else to make it UV reactive?


----------



## MaDeuce50

Anybody know where I can get this besides Bitspower? Thier website is all jacked up and I can only find it on an Aus website but they want $50


----------



## Phelan

You can get the other 3 colors at frozencpu.com . I don't see the white one though.


----------



## MaDeuce50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> You can get the other 3 colors at frozencpu.com . I don't see the white one though.


Yeah I need a white one. I am very anal with my build and I'm almost thinking about changing up my whole theme if I can't get a white one


----------



## Wizid

Cant you paint it? I know they have a high temp white on ebay. I was looking for some to paint the brakes on my Jetta.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaDeuce50*
> 
> 
> Anybody know where I can get this besides Bitspower? Thier website is all jacked up and I can only find it on an Aus website but they want $50


Contact PPCs' and ask them if they can get you a White one. They will charge you the same price for the shutoff valve when they get one in stock.

I had them order High Speed Silent 20mm fans for me cause nobody carries those. PPCs' does now.









~Ceadder


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys due to plasticizer issues with my masterkleer tubing, i am going to remove it from my system, and switch to primochill "PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing" which is supposedly fixed this plasticizer issue, problem is it only comes in clear at the moment.
> So my main question is about Mayhems dyes which you all talk about, I am currently using distilled water and silver kill coil, and would like to keep it that way, can i just add mayhem's dye to my loop and that's it, or is there more to it?
> is there more maintenance involved using dye ?
> And lastly im looking on performance-pcs website at mayhems dyes and it says nothing about being UV reactive, do i need something else to make it UV reactive?


Mayhems have an official thread here

But it depends what you want to use. Their Pastel range needs a PH neutral water level other wise it don't work.

Mayhems do a UV reactive range but it depends on who stocks it, but they are more then willing to ship around the world to get there product to you.

Their customer service is also something good.


----------



## Plutonium10

I had posted a while back about an annoying high-pitched hum I was getting from my AP-15s. Well, I took one out and turned it up to full blast while holding it and no hum. Put it on the table and the hum came back instantly. Hopefully if I isolate them from the rad with a rubber gasket or something there won't be any more noise.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Mayhems have an official thread here
> But it depends what you want to use. Their Pastel range needs a PH neutral water level other wise it don't work.
> Mayhems do a UV reactive range but it depends on who stocks it, but they are more then willing to ship around the world to get there product to you.
> Their customer service is also something good.


PPCs carrys there products, so it wont be hard for me to get, and i did post on that thread...

just a quick questions tho, my final look i want is UV purple, so there is no way to use distilled water with kill coil and then at mayham's dye with something else to make it UV? or your pretty much saying i have to buy something like there "Mayhems X1 UV Deep Purple Concentrate - 250ml" and mix it with there special h20 mix or can i just use distilled water with that as well?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I had posted a while back about an annoying high-pitched hum I was getting from my AP-15s. Well, I took one out and turned it up to full blast while holding it and no hum. Put it on the table and the hum came back instantly. Hopefully if I isolate them from the rad with a rubber gasket or something there won't be any more noise.


Does it have a tone similar to HDD activity? I had several that did that years back and the only way I could resolve it was by doing an RMA with Scythe. I noticed now that one of mine is starting to vibrate occasionally. _/sigh_


----------



## ekg84

Wow Some really amazing builds here








This is mine, not a custom loop but looks like build still qualifies to be posted here? Just got an H60 2013 model, I really like smooth thicker tubing:


----------



## socketus

oh yah, w/c is w/c .... plenty of a-i-1 solutions posted in these pages


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Wow Some really amazing builds here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mine, not a custom loop but looks like build still qualifies to be posted here? Just got an H60 2013 model, I really like smooth thicker tubing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Every update you've done to this rig has been killer. Def. one of the cleanest builds I've seen in a long time. Well Done!


----------



## ceaze one

The front panel on that Core 3000 is so sleek!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Wow Some really amazing builds here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mine, not a custom loop but looks like build still qualifies to be posted here? Just got an H60 2013 model, I really like smooth thicker tubing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow... that is without a doubt one of the cleanest rigs I've ever seen. Stunning. Everything is perfect. Congratulations on that. I almost want to say a custom loop would make it look a little busy. Well done.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Every update you've done to this rig has been killer. Def. one of the cleanest builds I've seen in a long time. Well Done!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> The front panel on that Core 3000 is so sleek!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Wow... that is without a doubt one of the cleanest rigs I've ever seen. Stunning. Everything is perfect. Congratulations on that. I almost want to say a custom loop would make it look a little busy. Well done.


Thank you guys! your feedback is highly appreciated!

My build is running for the Mod Of The Month right now. Take a look at other builds here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50

AND VOTE VOTE VOTE


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Thank you guys! your feedback is highly appreciated!
> My build is running for the Mod Of The Month right now. Take a look at other builds here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50
> AND VOTE VOTE VOTE


Checking it out right now! Ultra clean build, love it.


----------



## Plutonium10

No, it's more of a high-pitched whine. The best way I can think to describe it is like the noise from a big high-speed industrial pump. Almost like a barely-audible whistling screech that just gives you a headache after a while. I can hear it from over 15 feet away and yet when I ran one of the fans in my hand it was almost silent.


----------



## Qu1ckset

What is a good site in the us or canada, the will ship to canada, that carrys durelene tubing?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Mayhems Pastel Blue, is so amazing in true life











One of the noisiest pumps on this planet











Playing with the auto macro setting on the camera











My full loop up and running, with no leaks


----------



## Ceadderman

Put some rubber/silicon washers under the mounting points of that pump GN. Should quiet it down a bit. Looks good though.









Love that AIO build on this page too. Wow that looks very sharp.









Kay gais I'm outta here see you next year when I get my system back up and running. Peace.









~Ceadder


----------



## Phelan

That's purdy


----------



## d3adsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> It is possible, but not probable.
> With all the built-in BIOS shutdowns and other thermal safety software we have today, a CPU will typically shut itself down before reaching critical heat levels. As I stated above, it is possible in the event of multiple fail-safe disrupts, but probably would only happen if all the protective measures were intentionally turned off.


Ok. Thanks.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quick question here. I want to try using some Tygon Norprene in my build rather than the Primochill I currently have. Does anybody know where a Canadian such as myself can get some without paying a whole lot for shipping? I know FCPU has it but I've never ordered from them and I don't know what the shipping/tax/duty would end up being.


----------



## socketus

@ Qu1ckset - AFAIK, sidewindercomputers & petrastechshop is the only place in NA that sells durelene

@ Plutonium10 - dazmode - aint that canadian ?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> @ Qu1ckset - AFAIK, sidewindercomputers & petrastechshop is the only place in NA that sells durelene
> @ Plutonium10 - dazmode - aint that canadian ?


Yeah, I get most of my stuff from Dazmode but he doesn't stock Tygon. Neither does NCIX. Shipping for 10 feet of Norprene from FCPU would be $30 via USPS.


----------



## socketus

$30 total or just for shipping / custom ? PPCS is usually out of Masterkleer Dark Red, so I sucked it up and bought it from Aquatuning - $20 for the tubing, $20 for the shipping, tho it did come from Germany. Otherwise, I can get it for less than $30 from PPCS.


----------



## DrakeZ

hey guys i'm considering to replace my old black ice pro III into these


EK XTX 240 (yes i know this is downgrade form 360)

or


EK XT 360

i want to get a better performance than BIP III, or BIP III is enough to cool one processor?
i need you opinion guys about my decision


----------



## Fuganater

Depends on the fans.


----------



## PCModderMike

Changed my loop last night....and spent the entire night filling the loop and leak testing. The o-rings on the FC link system were a big PIA, and kept giving me trouble. They have to be aligned JUST RIGHT or they will leak a little.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Changed my loop last night....and spent the entire night filling the loop and leak testing. The o-rings on the FC link system were a big PIA, and kept giving me trouble. They have to be aligned JUST RIGHT or they will leak a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


About time you posted this. Have anymore pictures. I've been waiting to see what that res was going to look like.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> About time you posted this. Have anymore pictures. I've been waiting to see what that res was going to look like.


More coming later with my real camera.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> 4)Size: It's got 3/8" barbs. I'm running 1/2" Wix doesn't make a 1/2' version. It's also rather big even though it's still small. My case is small and I don't really have room for the rad I'm using let alone my pump, res, and other hardware.


Wix DOES make a 1/2:" version, but its a canister style filter (metal) I will get part numbers.


----------



## ahweng38

Hi Guys!

Pls welcome me and vote me too, thx~!!


----------



## snef

HI

ok go for a shinobi XL windows white with blue mesh


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahweng38*
> 
> Hi Guys!
> Pls welcome me and vote me too, thx~!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> my wife asked me i want play call of duty black ops II
> perfect she have a really good computer to do that but......
> only cpu was watercooled, GPU still with regular fan and its a reference design
> 
> wow!!!!! same noise as a world war 2 B-57
> 
> ok need to water cool the GPU but the little Bitfenix shinobi dont have enough space for rad
> i asked my wife if a caselabs SM5 white is what she wants, she told me NO
> i want the same case because i like it and i really like the touch
> 
> ok go for a shinobi XL windows white with blue mesh
> 
> and et voila!
> 
> Intel I5-3570k
> Gigabyte H77-dsh3
> 8GB corsair vengeance white low profile
> XFX Black OC edition HD7970
> PSU Corsair XT750m
> SSD Octane 128GB
> Seagate 1.5TB
> Blue and white sleeving
> Bitfenix Shinobi XL Windows white
> 
> Water cooling
> Pump: DDC 3.1 (10W)
> CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm
> GPU Block: Koolance VID-R797
> RAD: XSPC EX360 and EX240
> Res: XSPC dual Bay for 1 ddc
> Tubing: XSPC 3/8 5/8 clear
> Liquid: Mayhem Pastel Blue Berry
> 12 Bitfenix spectre blue led
> and a lot of goodies
> 
> stop talking and PICSSSSSS


A little lengthy on the intro....but very nice rig.


----------



## snef

opsss edit


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahweng38*
> 
> Hi Guys!
> Pls welcome me and vote me too, thx~!!





Nice work.











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> HI
> 
> ok go for a shinobi XL windows white with blue mesh





Really nice work. I like that 90 fitting on the GPU straight into the QD's. Looks really slick.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> HI
> 
> ok go for a shinobi XL windows white with blue mesh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Such a beautiful white rig. Well done sir, well done.


----------



## js593

What is the name of the White fittings on the rig posted above.


----------



## WebsterXC

Bitspower White Compression Fittings


----------



## js593

PCS does NOT show these, what is a supplier to get these fittings? Looking at doing a single rad hard line setup with compression fittings (3/8) with XSPC rad.


----------



## snef

frozencpu


----------



## js593

Thanks ++

Edit - looking for a red based waterblock... Any ideas out there in W/C land?


----------



## snef

for cpu and ram
i know bitspower have a red waterblock

i dont think red gpu waterbock exist


----------



## protzman

yeah snef im gonna have to go ahead and 2nd what everyone else is saying because this rig is slick a fk!


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> for cpu and ram
> i know bitspower have a red waterblock
> i dont think red gpu waterbock exist


Looked at those, Didn't like them all that much.

Was looking at a red Anodized swifttech, but i guess that would have to get custom coated.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Looked at those, Didn't like them all that much.
> Was looking at a red Anodized swifttech, but i guess that would have to get custom coated.


i think clear block with red coolant or red led or both is the way

i'll go this way for my main rig


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Changed my loop last night....and spent the entire night filling the loop and leak testing. The o-rings on the FC link system were a big PIA, and kept giving me trouble. They have to be aligned JUST RIGHT or they will leak a little.


How did you mount your reservoir to the radiator? I'm receiving ek 400mm reservoir tomorrow and was planning to do that since I have the same setup with a triple radiator in the front of my case, but figured I would have to make some sort of mount in order to do it. What was your solution?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> HI
> 
> ok go for a shinobi XL windows white with blue mesh


Love it! Have any shots from the front?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Love it! Have any shots from the front?


no sorry

maybe this one


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> How did you mount your reservoir to the radiator? I'm receiving ek 400mm reservoir tomorrow and was planning to do that since I have the same setup with a triple radiator in the front of my case, but figured I would have to make some sort of mount in order to do it. What was your solution?


I used these right here - CLICK. They worked great.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I have been asked, why bother water cooling if you can reach similar performance on air?

I simply stated "For that little bit more performance, looks and becoz I can"

What do you people say to others with a similar question, why do we spend hundreds if not thousands cooling our PC's?


----------



## Michalius

Aesthetics, noise, and giving myself something else to obsess over between Chipset/CPU/Video Card releases.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I have been asked, why bother water cooling if you can reach similar performance on air?
> I simply stated "For that little bit more performance, looks and becoz I can"
> What do you people say to others with a similar question, why do we spend hundreds if not thousands cooling our PC's?


There's really no way to replicate water temps on a gpu with air, especially with multiple gpu(s).

I can attest that an air cooled cpu can come very close to a water cooled cpu. Albeit, you'll need a massive air-cooler


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's really no way to replicate water temps on a gpu with air, especially with multiple gpu(s).
> I can attest that an air cooled cpu can come very close to a water cooled cpu. Albeit, you'll need a massive air-cooler


This completely. I have a couple of very well-cooled (air) systems at work... but they are single GPU configurations and they are louder at idle with the fans on their lowest speeds than my WC system is on full while benching (and having much lower temps overall). If you have 2 or more 7970's (especially if they are reference models like mine are) it sounds like an airplane is attempting to take off during benching or gaming. Although I once looked at watercooling as a luxury... I now look at it as a necessity! Nothing beats a nearly-silent machine, especially if it's located less than 3 feet from your head.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> This completely. I have a couple of very well-cooled (air) systems at work... but they are single GPU configurations and they are louder at idle with the fans on their lowest speeds than my WC system is on full while benching (and having much lower temps overall). If you have 2 or more 7970's (especially if they are reference models like mine are) it sounds like an airplane is attempting to take off during benching or gaming. Although I once looked at watercooling as a luxury... I now look at it as a necessity! Nothing beats a nearly-silent machine, especially if it's located less than 3 feet from your head.


Truth.

No amount of noise-cancelling headphones that you "really want to wear instead of having a 5.1 surround system" can make up for the silence that is provided by watercooling. That, and if executed properly, just looks amazing!


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Aesthetics, noise, and giving myself something else to obsess over between Chipset/CPU/Video Card releases.


This is why I watercool. The added head room for OC doesn't hurt either


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I do it to get girls.
True story.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *I do it to get girls.*
> True story.


Fine lotta good that'd do me . . . . . .









Wonder if it gets guys too . . .

Darlene


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I have been asked, why bother water cooling if you can reach similar performance on air?
> I simply stated "For that little bit more performance, looks and becoz I can"
> What do you people say to others with a similar question, why do we spend hundreds if not thousands cooling our PC's?


I would rather break a case to fit radiators than break a motherboard with a heavy air cooler.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> HI
> 
> ok go for a shinobi XL windows white with blue mesh
























Well done sir! really nice rig


----------



## TigerStripes

Hi OCN! I present to you, for your viewing chagrin, my first attempt at water cooling!

Admittedly, it isn't much to look at at present, but I've opted for quality components that will last and allow me to expand in the future.



The rig is built into my junky old Rosewill Thor case. I did some very light mod work and removed the top plastic fins and moved the front panel, which was integrated into the top bezel, to the drive bay. The radiator is screwed into fan holes on the top of the case, and there was a cutout in the steel for the cables from the front panel which I re-purposed for rad ports. I selected an XSPC RX480 because I plan to purchase a Case Labs SM8 in the spring, and this rad will fit beautifully. The fan controller is a Rheosmart Sunbeam 30W 6 channel.



The other bit of light modding I did (if you can even call it that) is simply drill some holes in the HDD bay to mount the support bracket for my pump/res combo. This is the 140mL EK D5 CSQ pump top. I like the ease of pump-top reservoirs, and I seem to be one of the few who actually likes "all dem circles" on the EK CSQ models. So this res matches my FC7970 CSQ block. Other pertinent hardware - XSPC Raystorm Black Edition, Duralene clear 1/2" x 3/4" tubing, matte black Monsoon compression fittings



The final plan is to put this all in a white SM8 with a black and white sort of theme, but for now I'm simply pleased that I have a working rig under water! Thanks for looking!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerStripes*
> 
> Hi OCN! I present to you, for your viewing chagrin, my first attempt at water cooling!
> Admittedly, it isn't much to look at at present, but I've opted for quality components that will last and allow me to expand in the future.
> 
> The rig is built into my junky old Rosewill Thor case. I did some very light mod work and removed the top plastic fins and moved the front panel, which was integrated into the top bezel, to the drive bay. The radiator is screwed into fan holes on the top of the case, and there was a cutout in the steel for the cables from the front panel which I re-purposed for rad ports. I selected an XSPC RX480 because I plan to purchase a Case Labs SM8 in the spring, and this rad will fit beautifully. The fan controller is a Rheosmart Sunbeam 30W 6 channel.
> 
> The other bit of light modding I did (if you can even call it that) is simply drill some holes in the HDD bay to mount the support bracket for my pump/res combo. This is the 140mL EK D5 CSQ pump top. I like the ease of pump-top reservoirs, and I seem to be one of the few who actually likes "all dem circles" on the EK CSQ models. So this res matches my FC7970 CSQ block. Other pertinent hardware - XSPC Raystorm Black Edition, Duralene clear 1/2" x 3/4" tubing, matte black Monsoon compression fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final plan is to put this all in a white SM8 with a black and white sort of theme, but for now I'm simply pleased that I have a working rig under water! Thanks for looking!


Looks really good


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerStripes*
> 
> Hi OCN! I present to you, for your viewing chagrin, my first attempt at water cooling!
> Admittedly, it isn't much to look at at present, but I've opted for quality components that will last and allow me to expand in the future.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rig is built into my junky old Rosewill Thor case. I did some very light mod work and removed the top plastic fins and moved the front panel, which was integrated into the top bezel, to the drive bay. The radiator is screwed into fan holes on the top of the case, and there was a cutout in the steel for the cables from the front panel which I re-purposed for rad ports. I selected an XSPC RX480 because I plan to purchase a Case Labs SM8 in the spring, and this rad will fit beautifully. The fan controller is a Rheosmart Sunbeam 30W 6 channel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other bit of light modding I did (if you can even call it that) is simply drill some holes in the HDD bay to mount the support bracket for my pump/res combo. This is the 140mL EK D5 CSQ pump top. I like the ease of pump-top reservoirs, and I seem to be one of the few who actually likes "all dem circles" on the EK CSQ models. So this res matches my FC7970 CSQ block. Other pertinent hardware - XSPC Raystorm Black Edition, Duralene clear 1/2" x 3/4" tubing, matte black Monsoon compression fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final plan is to put this all in a white SM8 with a black and white sort of theme, but for now I'm simply pleased that I have a working rig under water! Thanks for looking!


looks good first timer. get used to staring at it saying " what can i do to it next?". i know i do and wish i could build one like some of the rigs i've seen in this thread.


----------



## animal0307

EK D5/MCP655 RES top combo mount V1. Mounts to a 120mm fan. Pump can be rotated 90 degrees 4 directions. Even though it's 14 ga stainless it's just a bit too floppy for my liking. I have to figure out a way to hold in in two places. So far a ring a round the res is my best option but I can't come up with a classy way to do it that still allows for rotating of the whole assembly.




PS: please ignore the desk of a man inventing things. It is a mess only he can decipher.


----------



## TigerStripes

Thanks! I'm already staring at it saying "I wish I had more money."


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> EK D5/MCP655 RES top combo mount V1. Mounts to a 120mm fan. Pump can be rotated 90 degrees 4 directions. Even though it's 14 ga stainless it's just a bit too floppy for my liking. I have to figure out a way to hold in in two places. So far a ring a round the res is my best option but I can't come up with a classy way to do it that still allows for rotating of the whole assembly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: please ignore the desk of a man inventing things. It is a mess only he can decipher.


I like that pump mounting bracket for a fan! Far less bulkier looking then Koolance


----------



## _TRU_

ok i've posted here before but fiances are straining again. /sigh but i think i have an idea on how to WC and have $ to do it. instead of doing a full system, how about a small loop for just my vid cards? would a single 200mm rad suffice or just a 120?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> ok i've posted here before but fiances are straining again. /sigh but i think i have an idea on how to WC and have $ to do it. instead of doing a full system, how about a small loop for just my vid cards? would a single 200mm rad suffice or just a 120?


what graphic cards are you using? do you OC it?
I rather cool my CPU if I've your option unless you already run a close loop WC on you CPU like h100


----------



## TwentyCent

I guess you could always buy another all-in-one water-cooling system (Corsair or Antec style) and buy Dwood's bracket.


Pretty much the cheapest way. You could always spice it up by changing the tubes and adding a reservoir to your loop. Look at this guy's setup for example. You could even put your CPU and VGA in series by doing so. I know PNY has done something of the sort. Oh found it:


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matan11*
> 
> Here are some new pics from mine.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More and better Pics comming soon.


Very clean







I love the acrylic cover


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> what graphic cards are you using? do you OC it?
> I rather cool my CPU if I've your option unless you already run a close loop WC on you CPU like h100


i run a h60 on my cpu. it's restricted to 4.2 cause of the mobo. on full load hardly every goes past 60c with fans on low so didn't see a need to go the h100 route. (though i am still considering it). i have 2 gtx 460 EE's. one is factory oc'd the other is OC'd by me for folding.


----------



## McDown

DIY backplate for my Razor GTX680.
Made of leftover of an aluminum sheet I had from my neverending build.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> DIY backplate for my Razor GTX680.
> Made of leftover of an aluminum sheet I had from my neverending build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures


That's awesome!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## She loved E

agreed, that's freakin clean. where'd you get those round standoffs?


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That's awesome!
> Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *She loved E*
> 
> agreed, that's freakin clean. where'd you get those round standoffs?


Thanks guys. The standoffs are from my old EK 480 and 580 blocks.


----------



## H3avyM3tal

Say, is there any specific reason not to go with the koolance block for my gtx680, or is it just a matter of looks?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> DIY backplate for my Razor GTX680.
> Made of leftover of an aluminum sheet I had from my neverending build.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Great work.
Very clean and tidy,thats a deal maker for me

*searches out some Alu to make me own.....*


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> ok i've posted here before but fiances are straining again. /sigh but i think i have an idea on how to WC and have $ to do it. instead of doing a full system, how about a small loop for just my vid cards? would a single 200mm rad suffice or just a 120?


120mm of rad per block minimum. If you want to do it on a budget, pick up a H50/60 and get a Dwood bracket for it.


----------



## _TRU_

any ideas on my little loop? only need 2 cool 2x gx 460s. should i just do another h series? i have 2 h60's atm. 1 for my cpu & 1 extra. if i went the H route i would buy a h100 and use the 2 h60s for the 460s


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Great work.
> Very clean and tidy,thats a deal maker for me
> *searches out some Alu to make me own.....*


Do they make road signs from aluminum in the UK?








Someone gave me an old road sign and I used it to fab a psu/rad cover early this year, eventually went to acrylic however.

Some black (or whatever you like) acrylic 1/8" or 3/16" would look nice.


----------



## SpecializedPro

HI Guys, wonder if anyone can help me? just in process of getting my watercooling kit together, i have bought an Apogee HD cpu block which comes with 1/2 ID inch barbs, problem is that my tubing & compression fittings are 3/8 ID, so my question is would changing the barbs from 1/4 ID to 3/8 ID make a lot of difference to the flow rate & cooling??? or would it be better to get the 3/8 tubing over the barbs or just buy some 1/2 tubing and compression fittings instead???


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> HI Guys, wonder if anyone can help me? just in process of getting my watercooling kit together, i have bought an Apogee HD cpu block which comes with 1/2 ID inch barbs, problem is that my tubing & compression fittings are 3/8 ID, so my question is would changing the barbs from 1/4 ID to 3/8 ID make a lot of difference to the flow rate & cooling??? or would it be better to get the 3/8 tubing over the barbs or just buy some 1/2 tubing and compression fittings instead???


tube bore plays almost no part in flow rate.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> HI Guys, wonder if anyone can help me? just in process of getting my watercooling kit together, i have bought an Apogee HD cpu block which comes with 1/2 ID inch barbs, problem is that my tubing & compression fittings are 3/8 ID, so my question is would changing the barbs from 1/4 ID to 3/8 ID make a lot of difference to the flow rate & cooling??? or would it be better to get the 3/8 tubing over the barbs or just buy some 1/2 tubing and compression fittings instead???
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> tube bore plays almost no part in flow rate.
Click to expand...

^This^


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> HI Guys, wonder if anyone can help me? just in process of getting my watercooling kit together, i have bought an Apogee HD cpu block which comes with 1/2 ID inch barbs, problem is that my tubing & compression fittings are 3/8 ID, so my question is would changing the barbs from 1/4 ID to 3/8 ID make a lot of difference to the flow rate & cooling??? or would it be better to get the 3/8 tubing over the barbs or just buy some 1/2 tubing and compression fittings instead???


Just put some new barbs on the block. I have the same block as you and I don't care for sausage 1/2 tube so I swapped em for different fittings. They sure were tough to get off though, scraped em up a bit removing from the block.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I don't care for sausage 1/2 tube


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> any ideas on my little loop? only need 2 cool 2x gx 460s. should i just do another h series? i have 2 h60's atm. 1 for my cpu & 1 extra. if i went the H route i would buy a h100 and use the 2 h60s for the 460s


Thats a hard choice for me since I think I would upgrade your Graphic Cards first (though its still a reasonable good card, seems a little bit outdated for me and not worth the hustle to water cool it)
get a decent graphic card, custom water cool it. Its more efficient in the long run since you dont have to spend twice when upgrading, rather save up and get a decent one at once (future proofing)


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> tube bore plays almost no part in flow rate.


Thanx, just what i wanted to hear! lol:thumb:


----------



## SpecializedPro

Looolz! Sausage tube!







jokes! Thanx man!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> any ideas on my little loop? only need 2 cool 2x gx 460s. should i just do another h series? i have 2 h60's atm. 1 for my cpu & 1 extra. if i went the H route i would buy a h100 and use the 2 h60s for the 460s


Its not worth water cooling these cards at all-i used to run them in SLI, great cards back in the day (still are actually) but they run very cool,

Secondly the availability of water cooling blocks for the GTX 460 is minimal at best nowadays, and then imo you would be mostly restricted to reference type blocks, and seeing that the 460 came out in many forms, you may have trouble getting blocks for your cards if even you just wanted to get blocks for aesthetic purposes.

Save your money and get a more up to date card (as previously mentioned in the thread)-also when making your choice, take a little time to see whether the card you want to buy has a corresponding water block-use this as a guide line:http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

So hang onto your money and forget about getting H series gear to cool those 460s

The H series of coolers is a 'Gateway' to more serious cooling


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> any ideas on my little loop? only need 2 cool 2x gx 460s. should i just do another h series? i have 2 h60's atm. 1 for my cpu & 1 extra. if i went the H route i would buy a h100 and use the 2 h60s for the 460s





Spoiler: Warning:TwentyCent's post



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> I guess you could always buy another all-in-one water-cooling system (Corsair or Antec style) and buy Dwood's bracket.
> 
> Pretty much the cheapest way. You could always spice it up by changing the tubes and adding a reservoir to your loop. Look at this guy's setup for example






I think that guy did something wrong. I modded an H60 with just another h60 rad added in and my temps were good (he said he went straight to 100). And then another poster put up his CPUID where his core temps are lower than his ambient of 20c.









Modding an h60 isn't an awful idea but you need a loop that has little restriction, the OP in that thread tried to cool that hybrid heat pipe gimick as well. If you do go this route be sure to use some sort of glycol or swap out the aluminum rads for a copper/brass core.

My H60 mod and photos

It had my 2500k at 4.5ghz and prime95 was around 50c


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> looks good first timer. get used to staring at it saying " what can i do to it next?". i know i do and wish i could build one like some of the rigs i've seen in this thread.


Agreed, I've been staring @ my rig wondering what next to do to it!



Maybe some lights, idk!!

My temps are really good for a single loop.


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I used these right here - CLICK. They worked great.


Thanks a lot man, that's going to make life easy. I'm waiting for the reservoir to get delivered right now. Here is the build it's going in. Hopefully I can squeeze the massive 400mm reservoir in their. I got a good deal on it. This is just a secondary rig that I'm building with cheap black Friday parts.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Thanks a lot man, that's going to make life easy. I'm waiting for the reservoir to get delivered right now. Here is the build it's going in. Hopefully I can squeeze the massive 400mm reservoir in their. I got a good deal on it. This is just a secondary rig that I'm building with cheap black Friday parts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No problem man. Looking at your case though, I don't think that 400mm will fit. Mine is only a 250 and you saw how large it is mounted on my rad.


----------



## ahweng38

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I have been asked, why bother water cooling if you can reach similar performance on air?
> I simply stated "For that little bit more performance, looks and becoz I can"
> What do you people say to others with a similar question, why do we spend hundreds if not thousands cooling our PC's?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Aesthetics, noise, and giving myself something else to obsess over between Chipset/CPU/Video Card releases.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's really no way to replicate water temps on a gpu with air, especially with multiple gpu(s).
> I can attest that an air cooled cpu can come very close to a water cooled cpu. Albeit, you'll need a massive air-cooler


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> This completely. I have a couple of very well-cooled (air) systems at work... but they are single GPU configurations and they are louder at idle with the fans on their lowest speeds than my WC system is on full while benching (and having much lower temps overall). If you have 2 or more 7970's (especially if they are reference models like mine are) it sounds like an airplane is attempting to take off during benching or gaming. Although I once looked at watercooling as a luxury... I now look at it as a necessity! Nothing beats a nearly-silent machine, especially if it's located less than 3 feet from your head.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Truth.
> No amount of noise-cancelling headphones that you "really want to wear instead of having a 5.1 surround system" can make up for the silence that is provided by watercooling. That, and if executed properly, just looks amazing!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> This is why I watercool. The added head room for OC doesn't hurt either


COZ this is a hobbit plus! we are willing to SPEND!


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Fine lotta good that'd do me . . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder if it gets guys too . . .
> Darlene


Has not helped me yet


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahweng38*
> 
> COZ this is a hobbit plus! we are willing to SPEND!












I wasn't arguing against wc


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Thanks a lot man, that's going to make life easy. I'm waiting for the reservoir to get delivered right now. Here is the build it's going in. Hopefully I can squeeze the massive 400mm reservoir in their. I got a good deal on it. -snip-


That a 360mm rad in the front or a 420mm?? I think that will let you know if it will fit or not.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> That a 360mm rad in the front or a 420mm?? I think that will let you know if it will fit or not.


It's a 360


----------



## wermad

Some more pics:






On my to-do list: wire management and make some drive bay covers from some spare acrylic I have lying around


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Thanks a lot man, that's going to make life easy. I'm waiting for the reservoir to get delivered right now. Here is the build it's going in. Hopefully I can squeeze the massive 400mm reservoir in their. I got a good deal on it. This is just a secondary rig that I'm building with cheap black Friday parts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What case is that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I used these right here - CLICK. They worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot man, that's going to make life easy. I'm waiting for the reservoir to get delivered right now. Here is the build it's going in. Hopefully I can squeeze the massive 400mm reservoir in their. I got a good deal on it. This is just a secondary rig that I'm building with cheap black Friday parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
Click to expand...

I have one of these coming soon from Bitfenix as part of a sponsored build im doing with Bitfenix and Aquatuning.
You are doing a lot of the leg work for me in regards to rad room,thanks for that.

How much room is between the outer plastics and the steel case?


----------



## RKTGX95

does anyone know if there is such a thing as a spherical reservoir?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What case is that?


*Bitfenix Survivor White*


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> *Bitfenix Survivor White*


Thanks


----------



## driftingforlife

Just made a loop on my LD PC-V4 out of spare parts. Need to get a CPU block.


----------



## K4IKEN

I wish I had spare parts.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some more pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my to-do list: wire management and make some drive bay covers from some spare acrylic I have lying around


That mobo looks so small in that case lol lookin good though werm


----------



## Bart

Wermad: I think it needs more fans.







Nice monstrosity man!! I'd name that one Godzilla.


----------



## She loved E

Just finished my build, so its finally worthy of this thread!









The short version: ITX, watercooled i7-3770K and GTX 570 HD. Used the most powerful & compact rads, res and pump I could find as everything's packed in 14.XX liters. IE about half the size of a Prodigy. Going to go for 5GHz next and keep eking more out of the GPU.





It's also a Mod of the Month nominee, so if you haven't voted yet *please do*! It's a tight race this month.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That mobo looks so small in that case lol lookin good though werm


Lol, it does







. The original member owner had a couple of reservoirs hanging from both sides of the mb. I'm thinking going with a couple of dual bay reservoirs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Wermad: I think it needs more fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice monstrosity man!! I'd name that one Godzilla.


That be cool, but CL already has a claim to that name imho









Yeah, more fans are in order but I'm looking to 480mm rads in first. I do have a couple of more fans i can throw in there but the rads are in the way.


----------



## Bart

Umm, I was kidding about the fans.







I love the wild builds around here.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Umm, I was kidding about the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the wild builds around here.


Nah, you're right, I'm missing some fans to really bring the build together. One thing i don't like is to the do a half-arse job. i mean, I don't go fancy or neurotic on my builds look, but its gotta be decent and complete in some way or another. The missing drive bay covers are irritating me; gotta find time to make some covers







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Umm, I was kidding about the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the wild builds around here.
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, you're right, I'm missing some fans to really bring the build together. One thing i don't like is to the do a half-arse job. i mean, I don't go fancy or neurotic on my builds look, but its gotta be decent and complete in some way or another. The missing drive bay covers are irritating me; gotta find time to make some covers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

You need 2CPU for that thing Werm,ATX just looks weak in there......


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some more pics:
> On my to-do list: wire management and make some drive bay covers from some spare acrylic I have lying around


Looking good so far







what a beasty case
is it just me or those two tubing has different color?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *She loved E*
> 
> Just finished my build, so its finally worthy of this thread!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The short version: ITX, watercooled i7-3770K and GTX 570 HD. Used the most powerful & compact rads, res and pump I could find as everything's packed in 14.XX liters. IE about half the size of a Prodigy. Going to go for 5GHz next and keep eking more out of the GPU.
> It's also a Mod of the Month nominee, so if you haven't voted yet *please do*! It's a tight race this month.


What a compact rig! bet its a nightmare to work with








Been thinking to do a rig with bitfenix prodigy but cant be bothered tucking the cabling


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need 2CPU for that thing Werm,ATX just looks weak in there......


It's like buying a mini van to drive alone in!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need 2CPU for that thing Werm,ATX just looks weak in there......


I only game so need for an hp-tx mb. With a bit of cutting and ordering an hp-tx mb tray from MM, it can be done







. With current crop of atx 4-way mb, there's no need for xl-atx as well.

Needs bigger rads though







. Not bad for a simple trade (worth a portion of the original price) to get this. Once i sell my old case, I'll be able to recover part of my investment







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> It's like buying a mini van to drive alone in!


I've hated minivans for the longest, preferring wagons/estates (not the boring ones). I've had a change of heart now that I'm a father w/ a growing family. Would rather get a nice capable suv though (ie Disco4/LR4).


----------



## kyismaster

Who was it that said their lamptron caught on fire?


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> does anyone know if there is such a thing as a spherical reservoir?


Can't say that I have seen one. I am guessing there would be a market for one, unless someone has a reason why it would not work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Who was it that said their lamptron caught on fire?


I believe B Negative's did.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some more pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my to-do list: wire management and make some drive bay covers from some spare acrylic I have lying around


you should rent a room in that case. it is bigger then my apt in new york city. please keep the pics coming, don't be modest.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Can't say that I have seen one. I am guessing there would be a market for one, unless someone has a reason why it would not work.
> I believe B Negative's did.


i was about to buy one on sale and was like..... its on sale for a reason....... i can't put my tongue on it.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> It's like buying a mini van to drive alone in!


my first car was a minivan







used it to transport my bikes, computer, and much more!
I actually miss it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> you should rent a room in that case. it is bigger then my apt in new york city. please keep the pics coming, don't be modest.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> my first car was a minivan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> used it to transport my bikes, computer, and much more!
> I actually miss it












I was just joking because the case is so large you could probably fit 3 builds in there if you are creative. I have no hate for mini vans, just love.


----------



## wermad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







mind the speed bumps/humps











VS


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mind the speed bumps/humps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VS


someone had that second one in the market place, the dual d5 bay for $70 ish


----------



## kyismaster

where can i get the fusion vial these days? (( aka DNA helix res ))


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mind the speed bumps/humps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VS


Definitely the first.


----------



## AMC

That frozenQ rez is garbage. I was building my buddy's water cooing build and had so many problems with it. First the cathode area had a leak and rusted into the water and all the components. The RMA'ed unit took over 2 months. The new unit had massive threading issues as well. Never buying FrozenQ again.

Stick with the koolance.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> That frozenQ rez is garbage. I was building my buddy's water cooing build and had so many problems with it. First the cathode area had a leak and rusted into the water and all the components. The RMA'ed unit took over 2 months. The new unit had massive threading issues as well. Never buying FrozenQ again.
> Stick with the koolance.


i think theres a v2


----------



## kyismaster

so your saying even this one is trash?


----------



## Bart

Oh crap, I just ordered a blood red UV one. I really HOPE it isn't crap!!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Oh crap, I just ordered a blood red UV one. I really HOPE it isn't crap!!


i think his mailman just dropped it or something. lol

OCN has been using FQ's for ages.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> where can i get the fusion vial these days? (( aka DNA helix res ))


Helix reservoir (aka T-Virus)?

ppcs.com
frozencpu.co
frozenq.com (this is where I get my stuff).


----------



## Rickles

Photo bomb

redid my loop a bit

Added:

a pair of 140mm rads
norprene tubing
new block (bought from Wermad)











still got to make a better / bigger shroud and should I change the anti kink to white or black??

The purples don't match


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *She loved E*
> 
> Just finished my build, so its finally worthy of this thread!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The short version: ITX, watercooled i7-3770K and GTX 570 HD. Used the most powerful & compact rads, res and pump I could find as everything's packed in 14.XX liters. IE about half the size of a Prodigy. Going to go for 5GHz next and keep eking more out of the GPU.
> It's also a Mod of the Month nominee, so if you haven't voted yet *please do*! It's a tight race this month.


Good job bro. Looks good.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> That frozenQ rez is garbage. I was building my buddy's water cooing build and had so many problems with it. First the cathode area had a leak and rusted into the water and all the components. The RMA'ed unit took over 2 months. The new unit had massive threading issues as well. Never buying FrozenQ again.
> Stick with the koolance.


We have a rep here (actually, I think he's the founder). I've had to rma one and it was shipped asap.

Keep in mind these are custom made reservoir. So its not going to be perfect. I've purchased a couple of them and FrozenQ has taken care of my concerns quickly.

@kyismaster.

They're great reservoirs and look spectacular. if you buy one and have any issues, contact Alex from FrozenQ and he'll take care of you. The replacement i got was a bit loose on the caps but after adjusting them ( I had no idea you could do this







) it was fine.

I'm siding on the FrozenQ helix bay res too


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> We have a rep here (actually, I think he's the founder). I've had to rma one and it was shipped asap.
> Keep in mind these are custom made reservoir. So its not going to be perfect. I've purchased a couple of them and FrozenQ has taken care of my concerns quickly.
> @kyismaster.
> They're great reservoirs and look spectacular. if you buy one and have any issues, contact Alex from FrozenQ and he'll take care of you. The replacement i got was a bit loose on the caps but after adjusting them ( I had no idea you could do this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) it was fine.
> I'm siding on the FrozenQ helix bay res too


I understand. But if it is custom made then he/she should not let issues like that pass by. But if he takes care of his customers on here then good.


----------



## Way2grouchy

What is the best 3.0 graphics card to WC right now?


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> What is the best 3.0 graphics card to WC right now?


IMO if u're planning to wc and oc the heck out of the card - 7970 is the king


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> IMO if u're planning to wc and oc the heck out of the card - 7970 is the king


Thanks!!! Does it matter what brand or can any 7970 be WC?


----------



## InsideJob

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127670










Any reference card will work with any reference block. Other then that it's all going to depend on what non-reference cards block manufacturers have made blocks for.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Any reference card will work with any reference block. Other then that it's all going to depend on what non-reference cards block manufacturers have made blocks for.


^^^
this
get a reference pcb card cause majority of wateblocks fit reference pcb's


----------



## Way2grouchy

Thanks!!!


----------



## Fonne

*PrimoChill CTR™ (Compression Tube Reservoir) System*

http://www.primochill.com/blog/product/primochill-ctr-compression-tube-reservoir-system/



Frozencpu.com got them:

http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p1/201212/NewProducts-Page1.html


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *PrimoChill CTR™ (Compression Tube Reservoir) System*
> http://www.primochill.com/blog/product/primochill-ctr-compression-tube-reservoir-system/
> 
> Frozencpu.com got them:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p1/201212/NewProducts-Page1.html


They look nice. Wonder if they will get super cloudy and leach plasticizer as well?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Knocked the copper back with 1600 W/D ready for some bench polishing (when the bloody thing arrives)





Holding off the final profiling of the corners until i have some pumps in.
Wishing for a drill press too i think,would of made the hole drilling much easier than the trusty 18v cordless...


----------



## driftingforlife




----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> What is the best 3.0 graphics card to WC right now?


I would say 7970 Lightning or 680 Lightning. Chose whichever you are partial to. AMD is in the lead with the latest drivers but I imagine Nvidia will retake that spot with their next release or at least be very close.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I would say 7970 Lightning or 680 Lightning. Chose whichever you are partial to. AMD is in the lead with the latest drivers but I imagine Nvidia will retake that spot with their next release or at least be very close.


Just don't do the Lightning if you are planning on running a Korean 27" IPS 2560x1440 monitor, they don't output dual-link DVI.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Just don't do the Lightning if you are planning on running a Korean 27" IPS 2560x1440 monitor, they don't output dual-link DVI.


That applies to the 7970 version, not the 680. That's the reason I went with the 680 Lightning and not the 7970.


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have one of these coming soon from Bitfenix as part of a sponsored build im doing with Bitfenix and Aquatuning.
> You are doing a lot of the leg work for me in regards to rad room,thanks for that.
> How much room is between the outer plastics and the steel case?


Awesome, I'm excited to see what you do with it so I can get some ideas. There is roughly an inch or so of space between the metal of the case and the plastic front. I believe there is enough room that I could have mounted the radiator against the steel case with the fans on the other side behind the plastic front if needed. I may try that out this afternoon. I just liked my corsair fans and wanted them to show a little. The 400mm reservoir barely fits. The way I'm mounting it, it stands vertically and the return is a 90" fitting on the top which leaves about a 1/2" of room to the top of the case, maybe less. It should all look quite stunning when I'm done. I have two 10ft orders of clear Primoflex Advanced LRT coming tomorrow to replace the white pro lrt that's currently in the build now. I wanted to do mayhems pastel blueberry for the coolant but I have 1000ml of blue EK fluid sitting on my desk so I will probably just use that to save money. The white of the case is extremely brilliant and looks very pure. Its an excellent candidate for an all white build. I should mention to be careful with the cheapy led controller that comes with the case. Mine caught on fire instantly when turning the case on. To make it worst bitfenix basically told me I must have done something wrong in order for that to happen. Since I sent pictures they also stopped replying to my messages.




It was plugged into one of these molex


----------



## mombasa




----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, I'm excited to see what you do with it so I can get some ideas. There is roughly an inch or so of space between the metal of the case and the plastic front. I believe there is enough room that I could have mounted the radiator against the steel case with the fans on the other side behind the plastic front if needed. I may try that out this afternoon. I just liked my corsair fans and wanted them to show a little. The 400mm reservoir barely fits. The way I'm mounting it, it stands vertically and the return is a 90" fitting on the top which leaves about a 1/2" of room to the top of the case, maybe less. It should all look quite stunning when I'm done. I have two 10ft orders of clear Primoflex Advanced LRT coming tomorrow to replace the white pro lrt that's currently in the build now. I wanted to do mayhems pastel blueberry for the coolant but I have 1000ml of blue EK fluid sitting on my desk so I will probably just use that to save money. The white of the case is extremely brilliant and looks very pure. Its an excellent candidate for an all white build. I should mention to be careful with the cheapy led controller that comes with the case. Mine caught on fire instantly when turning the case on. To make it worst bitfenix basically told me I must have done something wrong in order for that to happen. Since I sent pictures they also stopped replying to my messages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was plugged into one of these molex
> [


Just a little bit of advice, if you could paragraph some writing next time, it would help to read it









Also that looks like the 0v (neutral) line, for that to do that:

1. Must be some very poor quality wire.

2. Your PSU does not have a dead short protection.

3. Wired up incorrectly.

Still ****ty that Bitfenix were not even interested. There is a Rep. on here some where, maybe they might be more willing to help


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Although I once looked at watercooling as a luxury... I now look at it as a necessity! Nothing beats a nearly-silent machine, especially if it's located less than 3 feet from your head.


+1. Besides cost, water cooling is something the average builder or die hard air cooling junkie will never understand. Since I have crossed over, I've never thought of going back to air in my future builds.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That applies to the 7970 version, not the 680. That's the reason I went with the 680 Lightning and not the 7970.


Forgot to mention that... sounded like dude was leaning toward 7970


----------



## mironccr345

Almost Finished.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Almost Finished.


Sweet little rig to be just folding all the time. Where's the pics with the coolant?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Cocktail Hour With Mayhems...





Warning, Not for Consumption


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> so your saying even this one is trash?


I would like to see a seperated coolant system where you could run colored through the veins, and clear (or aother color) through the res. That would look sick. (lots of tubing though)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> I would like to see a seperated coolant system where you could run colored through the veins, and clear (or aother color) through the res. That would look sick. (lots of tubing though)


Nice idea. So basically clear helix rods that are transparent and hallow. With plugs, you can add your own proffered choice of colored liquid.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice idea. So basically clear helix rods that are transparent and hallow. With plugs, you can add your own proffered choice of colored liquid.


That wouldn't be a very hard mod to do. Pick up an EK multi res, get a 2nd acetal bottom and tap each end all the way through. Then just add fittings on the inside and out of each end and spiral the tubing around itself. Have the actual intake and exhaust of the clear/ other colored fluid use the side ports of the bottoms.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice idea. So basically clear helix rods that are transparent and hallow. With plugs, you can add your own proffered choice of colored liquid.


Or that. Either way, that would look sick. would have to have some sort of motion though, the motion of bubbles through a pump would make this look pretty sick (backwards flow for a really trippy effect) It wouldn't be hard if i had some plastic, i could make some sort of pro-type, but the end caps would be a friggin mess (may need to make a 2 stage end cap for that)


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Cocktail Hour With Mayhems...


im sorry, but someone probably would drink that LOL


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> im sorry, but someone probably would drink that LOL


I told him he needs to put a warning cuz some dummy internetz guy will think he can drink it now.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I told him he needs to put a warning cuz some dummy internetz guy will think he can drink it now.












at first i thought it was the jello parfaits i make, but read mayhem and was like "oh god, zinc poisoning" looool


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I told him he needs to put a warning cuz some dummy internetz guy will think he can drink it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at first i thought it was the jello parfaits i make, but read mayhem and was like "oh god, zinc poisoning" looool
Click to expand...

Note to any Mayhem's reps on here: Make Mayhem dyes edible.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Note to any Mayhem's reps on here: Make Mayhem dyes edible.


agreed. they do look yummie


----------



## js593

Better add flavor. Im sure the dye tastes like crap.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I told him he needs to put a warning cuz some dummy internetz guy will think he can drink it now.


As crazy as that sounds.... I added the Warning..


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Forgot to mention that... sounded like dude was leaning toward 7970


Was actually leaning towards the 680 anybody have a link for the 680 ref and block for it also please? Have only wc cpu before never attempted vc. thanks


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Better add flavor. Im sure the dye tastes like crap.


whiskey flavor. great idea


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> As crazy as that sounds.... I added the Warning..
























too good! You'll be thanking me for that some day.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> As crazy as that sounds.... I added the Warning..


Does it go well with coka?


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> As crazy as that sounds.... I added the Warning..


ROFL!! That's hilarious. You never know what some people will think or do. I'd personally LOVE to find a safe liquid/dye I could drink that would turn my urine bright NEON green. Drink it at work, use the urinal next to someone, and pee really high so they notice the bright green. And then just act normal and enjoy freaking the poor guy out.


----------



## mironccr345

Almost finished doing a 24hr leak test. Think I'll go with clear tubes next time. Oh well, Mint Coolant Anyone?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Almost finished doing a 24hr leak test. Think I'll go with clear tubes next time. Oh well, Mint Coolant Anyone?


looks fresh.... minty fresh.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> ROFL!! That's hilarious. You never know what some people will think or do. I'd personally LOVE to find a safe liquid/dye I could drink that would turn my urine bright NEON green. Drink it at work, use the urinal next to someone, and pee really high so they notice the bright green. And then just act normal and enjoy freaking the poor guy out.


Green creme de menthe will do it, swear to it


----------



## teamrushpntball

So minor hitch, have been redoing my loop and just did my 24hr leak test. Everything went great, but then I let the system sit over the last day while I've been sleeving all my cables.

Plugging everything in and notice that there is growth in my reservoir, tubing, blocks everything. Some parts were new, some had had my Mayhem's dye in it but everything was rinsed with distilled, vinegar, then distilled again as I've done the last few loop changes. Brand new EK Blood Red coolant, supposed to have an anti-microbial in it, how can growth occur that quick? Should I put my silver kill coil back in? Or maybe some biocide drops?

Unfortunately I'm having trouble catching it on camera, but it's visible in my tubing just sitting there it's that prevalent so quickly.


----------



## socketus

Beat it bACK !! its THEM !!!! seriasly, what's it look like ? cream color, like the plasticizer thang ?


----------



## teamrushpntball

I don't even know how to describe it, but it's not plasticizer. Or at least not plasticizer like I had seen on my primoflex tubing. This stuff is just kinda sitting there and when I kick the pump on it flows around.

Guess my best description is soggy cracker crumbs. Whitish yellow color, but hard to be sure in the red dye.

Now my issue is I have enough red coolant left to refill, but I'm kinda scared to just to have this occur again. I had been using Mayhem's but switched the color and theme of my build so was left without the appropriate colors on hand and just ran down to Microcenter for the red. Not in there 48 hours and there is some crazy growth going on.

Edit- It's so prevalent that when I flip on my pump it looks like I have non-pearlescent Mayhem's Aurora back in the loop. THAT many floaties.

Here we go, sorry it's a terrible photo but look around the EK anti cyclone:


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> I don't even know how to describe it, but it's not plasticizer. Or at least not plasticizer like I had seen on my primoflex tubing. This stuff is just kinda sitting there and when I kick the pump on it flows around.
> Guess my best description is soggy cracker crumbs. Whitish yellow color, but hard to be sure in the red dye.
> Now my issue is I have enough red coolant left to refill, but I'm kinda scared to just to have this occur again. I had been using Mayhem's but switched the color and theme of my build so was left without the appropriate colors on hand and just ran down to Microcenter for the red. Not in there 48 hours and there is some crazy growth going on.
> Edit- It's so prevalent that when I flip on my pump it looks like I have non-pearlescent Mayhem's Aurora back in the loop. THAT many floaties.


Not sure if this could be it or not. I had a friend get his silver coil off ebay and it was like 99% pure which sounded great, but it dissolved in the water and left little floaty metallic specs everywhere. I think its probably more likely that your something in the loop mixed with your die and caused it to separate and cling to itself though. Kind of like when you mix oils and water.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> ROFL!! That's hilarious. You never know what some people will think or do. I'd personally LOVE to find a safe liquid/dye I could drink that would turn my urine bright NEON green. Drink it at work, use the urinal next to someone, and pee really high so they notice the bright green. And then just act normal and enjoy freaking the poor guy out.


Might be more fun on those random drug test, pee in a cup, days . . . .


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> I don't even know how to describe it, but it's not plasticizer. Or at least not plasticizer like I had seen on my primoflex tubing. This stuff is just kinda sitting there and when I kick the pump on it flows around.
> Guess my best description is soggy cracker crumbs. Whitish yellow color, but hard to be sure in the red dye.
> Now my issue is I have enough red coolant left to refill, but I'm kinda scared to just to have this occur again. I had been using Mayhem's but switched the color and theme of my build so was left without the appropriate colors on hand and just ran down to Microcenter for the red. Not in there 48 hours and there is some crazy growth going on.
> Edit- It's so prevalent that when I flip on my pump it looks like I have non-pearlescent Mayhem's Aurora back in the loop. THAT many floaties.
> Here we go, sorry it's a terrible photo but look around the EK anti cyclone:


I would guess that it is leftovers from your yellow aurora


----------



## teamrushpntball

I don't think so, the Aurora was somewhat shiny. And I had run distilled for a few weeks in between coolants and had no issues.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Might be more fun on those random drug test, pee in a cup, days . . . .


So glad I live in Canada, this is nearly unheard of here








(a lot of us would be unemployed if we had these here though I think







)


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Might be more fun on those random drug test, pee in a cup, days . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> So glad I live in Canada, this is nearly unheard of here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (a lot of us would be unemployed if we had these here though I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Speaking of water-cooling beast systems and urine samples, that reminds me of when I worked the Nuclear Plants in Southern Ontario. Seeing their massive water-cooling setups for the reactors and working on them was fun, the weekly urine sample, not so much.


----------



## InsideJob

Of course Axi has had one of the few Canadian jobs requiring piss tests


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Of course Axi has had one of the few Canadian jobs requiring piss tests


I get around


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> So glad I live in Canada, this is nearly unheard of here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (a lot of us would be unemployed if we had these here though I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Of course Axi has had one of the few Canadian jobs requiring piss tests


Cmon man you sound like an american. Talking about Canada as if it's 1 small city. LOL "Hey I knew a guy named Rick from Canada. Do you know him?"

In Alberta so many jobs have random piss tests. It's all blue collar here buddy. Trades...... and piss tests.


----------



## Bart

i work for the RCMP. No pee tests, go figure, LOL! All they'd get out of my urine is cabernet sauvignon anyway.


----------



## PCModderMike

Water cooling club....talking of piss tests.....yea makes sense


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Water cooling club....talking of piss tests.....yea makes sense


This thread goes in crazy direction sometimes. Somehow it went from drinking mayhems gigabyte orange to piss tests and neon pee.









Ok... BACK ON TOPIC FOLKS!


----------



## InsideJob

"Oh yeah Rick eh! I think I know him no doot aboot it. Works over at the maple syrup sugarbush eh? Yeah, I see him down at the Tim Hortons getting his double double before going down to the rink to play some good 'ol hockey eh. Yeah he's a good guy."
(okay I'm done with the Canadian stereotyping now)

I guess I could have been more specific, it's quite rare here in Ontario and to the East








Seems as though our West side is adopting American ways a lot more quickly then the rest of the country.

Yes, back on topic now


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> "Oh yeah Rick eh! I think I know him no doot aboot it. Works over at the maple syrup sugarbush eh? Yeah, I see him down at the Tim Hortons getting his double double before going down to the rink to play some good 'ol hockey eh. Yeah he's a good guy."
> (okay I'm done with the Canadian stereotyping now)
> I guess I could have been more specific, it's quite rare here in Ontario and to the East
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems as though our West side is adopting American ways a lot more quickly then the rest of the country.








































OMG hahahah I have never laughed harder from a post on OCN I SWEAR!!!!! I almost actually was rolling on the floor.

Sorry that was my last off topic post.


----------



## PCModderMike

Waiting for more dye to be delivered today...I ran out...looks blurple right now lol


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Almost finished doing a 24hr leak test. Think I'll go with clear tubes next time. Oh well, Mint Coolant Anyone?


Hey, I have a question, does the water going into the top of the reservoir make noise? Or do you have any problems with your current set up?

Does anyone have any opinions?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey, I have a question, does the water going into the top of the reservoir make noise? Or do you have any problems with your current set up?
> Does anyone have any opinions?


As long as the water in the res is filled high enough, like he has done, when the water is returning and feeding back into the res, it does not make any noise really.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> As long as the water in the res is filled high enough, like he has done, when the water is returning and feeding back into the res, it does not make any noise really.


How would I go about filling my reservoir when the top intake of the res is being used by a hose?

What is the best or easiest way to fill a loop?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> How would I go about filling my reservoir when the top intake of the res is being used by a hose?
> What is the best or easiest way to fill a loop?


That's a multi port top...so even though one port is being used, there are still two open spots. Most people take a barb, and a small piece of tube, screw it into a free port up top and fill with a funnel. Then when done remove the barb and tube and insert your plug.


----------



## Fonne

Was just chekking Aquatuning.de and Alphacool new GTX670 block is pretty nice ...

*Alphacool NexXxoS NVXP Nvidia GTX670*

http://www.aquatuning.de/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Alphacool%20GTX670&

*brushed stainless steel - black*



*polished - copper*



*polished stainless steel - black*



*polished stainless steel - silver*



*And inside + bottom*





*Backplate*


----------



## fakeblood

Leak testing...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey, I have a question, does the water going into the top of the reservoir make noise? Or do you have any problems with your current set up?
> Does anyone have any opinions?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's a multi port top...so even though one port is being used, there are still two open spots. Most people take a barb, and a small piece of tube, screw it into a free port up top and fill with a funnel. Then when done remove the barb and tube and insert your plug.


This is exactly how I filled the res. You can see the barb on the top left.


----------



## lowfat

Those Alphacool blocks look fantastic. I could definitely see myself buying similar blocks from them in the future.


----------



## wermad

^^^^Alphacool gpu blocks don't get enough love









They're making some really nice looking stuff and they perform pretty good (last gen blocks).

edit: Had DD not had the fire sale, I would have probably gone with Alphacool gpu blocks (better than xspc 580 blocks







).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Those Alphacool blocks look fantastic. I could definitely see myself buying similar blocks from them in the future.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^Alphacool gpu blocks don't get enough love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're making some really nice looking stuff and they perform pretty good (last gen blocks).
> 
> edit: Had DD not had the fire sale, I would have probably gone with Alphacool gpu blocks (better than xspc 580 blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


It would be nice if they did some matt black tops...


----------



## Attacktrak

Hope you like it


----------



## wermad

Rave time!

edit:


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> How would I go about filling my reservoir when the top intake of the res is being used by a hose?
> What is the best or easiest way to fill a loop?
> 
> 
> 
> That's a multi port top...so even though one port is being used, there are still two open spots. Most people take a barb, and a small piece of tube, screw it into a free port up top and fill with a funnel. Then when done remove the barb and tube and insert your plug.
Click to expand...

A good tip.
Rep+


----------



## D-Worx

Did some changes during yesterday and today with the setup. It seems like the EK green RTU liquid is alot more uv reactive than the blue i had that was a concentrate.

Also tested some laser engraving on the wings and we also made an acrylic plate with engraving to the front panel. Shame that the photos are not showing the acrylic that well, but looks stunning live.

What I also noticed, is the fact that i have changed the loop routing without even noticing. It seems like the first setup i ever made was made like EK says. That is Res-pump-rad-block-res.

Then i have changed it during a radiator re-positioning to re-pump-block-rad-res.

It seems like it doesn't really matter if cooling is considered., may be even a little better like that last one mentioned. Now running Phenom X4 965BE @ 3.9Ghz (1.450v) and NB @ 2200mhz (1.2v) and i hardly hit 30 degrees celsious


----------



## Fonne

Martin from Martinsliquidlab.org is back ?







- Just realesed this review today

*XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir Combo :*

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?284190-Martinsliquidlab.org-Review-XSPC-D5-Dual-Bay-Reservoir-Combo


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Martin from Martinsliquidlab.org is back ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Just realesed this review today
> *XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir Combo :*
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?284190-Martinsliquidlab.org-Review-XSPC-D5-Dual-Bay-Reservoir-Combo


Sweet! Mine's in the mail. Glad to see someone as credible as Martin test it out and make me feel good about spending the $$$ on one.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Was just chekking Aquatuning.de and Alphacool new GTX670 block is pretty nice ...
> 
> *Alphacool NexXxoS NVXP Nvidia GTX670*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Alphacool%20GTX670&
> 
> *brushed stainless steel - black*


Oh god that's perty. This or XSPC Razor? I like the 5 way out put on the Razor but this is so sexy in black stainless.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Almost finished doing a 24hr leak test. Think I'll go with clear tubes next time. Oh well, Mint Coolant Anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, I have a question, does the water going into the top of the reservoir make noise? Or do you have any problems with your current set up?
> 
> Does anyone have any opinions?
Click to expand...

This is my plan. Bitspower Aqua tube. It screws into the top under the fitting in whats left of the threads. Fill the res above the bottom of the tube and win. I suppose a long bard could have a similar result.

http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092264&kind2=51


Or if your top it's that thick.
http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092265&kind2=51


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Waiting for more dye to be delivered today...I ran out...looks blurple right now lol


Personally, I think that color looks fantastic... if it were my rig I probably wouldn't change a thing (although I'd also probably wind up trying to recreate that color and failing miserably when it came time to update something in the loop and be very sad).


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-Worx*
> 
> Did some changes
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> during yesterday and today with the setup. It seems like the EK green RTU liquid is alot more uv reactive than the blue i had that was a concentrate.
> Also tested some laser engraving on the wings and we also made an acrylic plate with engraving to the front panel. Shame that the photos are not showing the acrylic that well, but looks stunning live.
> What I also noticed, is the fact that i have changed the loop routing without even noticing. It seems like the first setup i ever made was made like EK says. That is Res-pump-rad-block-res.
> Then i have changed it during a radiator re-positioning to re-pump-block-rad-res.
> It seems like it doesn't really matter if cooling is considered., may be even a little better like that last one mentioned. Now running Phenom X4 965BE @ 3.9Ghz (1.450v) and NB @ 2200mhz (1.2v) and i hardly hit 30 degrees celsious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that glow looks great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Personally, I think that color looks fantastic... if it were my rig I probably wouldn't change a thing (although I'd also probably wind up trying to recreate that color and failing miserably when it came time to update something in the loop and be very sad).


Haha well thanks! I've tried adding some more dye to it already, but it's having a hard time mixing in because of the size of the res....so I guess it won't end up getting much darker than it is in that photo. But now that it's up and running, I'm kind of liking it and how it looks with the case all light up.


EDIT: Decided to try and take some decent photos...key word try. Please excuse the mismatched sleeving...still trying to finish my paracord.


----------



## kcuestag

Hey guys,

I have been considering changing to clear tubing and using something like Mayhems dye (don't know color yet) or maybe some of t he Mayhems Pastel coolants.

Could I still use a silver kill coil with distilled water + mayhems dye? What about with Mayhems Pastel?

Also, what temperature difference should I notice from my current loop (distilled water + silver kill coil) to running Mayhems Pastel?

Thanks!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have been considering changing to clear tubing and using something like Mayhems dye (don't know color yet) or maybe some of t he Mayhems Pastel coolants.
> Could I still use a silver kill coil with distilled water + mayhems dye? What about with Mayhems Pastel?
> 
> Also, what temperature difference should I notice from my current loop (distilled water + silver kill coil) to running Mayhems Pastel?
> Thanks!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have been considering changing to clear tubing and using something like Mayhems dye (don't know color yet) or maybe some of t he Mayhems Pastel coolants.
> Could I still use a silver kill coil with distilled water + mayhems dye? What about with Mayhems Pastel?
> 
> Also, what temperature difference should I notice from my current loop (distilled water + silver kill coil) to running Mayhems Pastel?
> Thanks!


wont realy be a temp change, but i wouldnt use a KC as it will mess with teh pH and can change the color (and can seperate and do weird things to the pastel)







... the pastel its self should have all the addatives you need in it already


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> wont realy be a temp change, but i wouldnt use a KC as it will mess with teh pH and can change the color (and can seperate and do weird things to the pastel)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... the pastel its self should have all the addatives you need in it already


Thank you guys, I'll move over to the Mayhems thread.


----------



## animal0307

Anyone else have about $100 of misc water cooling parts sitting in shopping carts? This is driving me nuts. I knew I shouldn't have started water cooling. I'm already in for for about $200 and still don't have a gpu block.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Anyone else have about $100 of misc water cooling parts sitting in shopping carts? This is driving me nuts. I knew I shouldn't have started water cooling. I'm already in for for about $200 and still don't have a gpu block.


lol... i have another $600 in WCing stuff to buy for 1 rig just to get it running (rads, GPU blocks, fittings, tubing ect)... then i plan to go tubeless... yah... and i have a second rig to complete when i have enough cash









EDIT: and im getting a CL as soon as i get one build up and running


----------



## InsideJob

Stumbling upon watercooling after building my computer, following this thread for months and being unemployed








I can't wait until I have the cash saved up to finally make my rig worthy of this thread








I plan to get *everyones* attention


----------



## animal0307

Sounds about right. I'm thinking about buying a new GPU just so I can get a block. 5870 blocks seem hard too find and cost too much in my opinion when I find one.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Stumbling upon watercooling after building my computer, following this thread for months and being unemployed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait until I have the cash saved up to finally make my rig worthy of this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to get *everyones* attention


lol... if you want *everyones* atention, then dont water cool it... run a condenser system with LN2 in it









EDIT:
@animal
i totaly agree


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Stumbling upon watercooling after building my computer, following this thread for months and being unemployed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait until I have the cash saved up to finally make my rig worthy of this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to get *everyones* attention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol... if you want *everyones* atention, then dont water cool it... run a condenser system with LN2 in it
Click to expand...

Don't forget to win the lottery and offer to water cool everyone's rigs.







I could use a reference GTX 670 and a matching XSPC Razor block to accompany it. Not too much to ask.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Don't forget to win the lottery and offer to water cool everyone's rigs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could use a reference GTX 670 and a matching XSPC Razor block to accompany it. Not too much to ask.


and i could use stock in bitspower considering how much im spending with them


----------



## InsideJob

I should have said "everyone here", because it's all you folk here in the OCN watercooling community who have caused me to become hypnotized by this hobsession (hobby+obsession)









I've planned and re-planned my loop/final build over and over for months in my head on paper and on wishlists, when I finally get it done... it's my plan to have some jaws dropped









I'll just wait for closed loop ln2 systems to be publicly available







hehe


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I should have said "everyone here", because it's all you folk here in the OCN watercooling community who have caused me to become hypnotized by this hobsession (hobby+obsession)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've planned and re-planned my loop/final build over and over for months in my head on paper and on wishlists, when I finally get it done... it's my plan to have some jaws dropped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just wait for closed loop ln2 systems to be publicly available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe


sounds good to me... just make sure you link the log here


----------



## InsideJob

Noo doot aboot it


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Sounds about right. I'm thinking about buying a new GPU just so I can get a block. 5870 blocks seem hard too find and cost too much in my opinion when I find one.


Yeah older blocks can be a crapshoot but some sites like Performance-PCs and FrozenCPU will have crazy deals with older blocks. I would try looking at universal GPU blocks unless you can ultimately find a full coverage block for cheap.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Noo doot aboot it


Is it said I couldn't read that until I realized your where Canadian?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Sounds about right. I'm thinking about buying a new GPU just so I can get a block. 5870 blocks seem hard too find and cost too much in my opinion when I find one.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah older blocks can be a crapshoot but some sites like Performance-PCs and FrozenCPU will have crazy deals with older blocks. I would try looking at universal GPU blocks unless you can ultimately find a full coverage block for cheap.
Click to expand...

Performance has a couple for about $80 but it's not worth it too me. I'd rather just upgrade. I've been thinking about going to the green side anyway.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Is it said I couldn't read that until I realized your where Canadian?


assuming you meant sad... nah, makes sense I suppose


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it said I couldn't read that until I realized your where Canadian?
> 
> 
> 
> assuming you meant sad... nah, makes sense I suppose
Click to expand...

Yeah what you sad


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Anyone else have about $100 of misc water cooling parts sitting in shopping carts? This is driving me nuts. I knew I shouldn't have started water cooling. I'm already in for for about $200 and still don't have a gpu block.


Trust me watercooling is such a money sucking hole, once it turns into your hobby, my w/c build is complete, just needed to buy replacement tubing, next things i know my shopping cart is worth $150 lol


----------



## animal0307

I have no doubt about that. I'm hoping I will be happy with my set up when I'm done and to the point that I will only ever need a new Gpu block if I upgrade Gpu's.


----------



## KaRLiToS

CPU at 4.6 Ghz
4 x (7970)GPUs at 1050Mhz/1500Mhz

When ambient temperature jumps to 28'C inside the case (during game) my water temperature spike to 32'C (stable). I feel the need to add another radiator especially if I want to overclock those cards at 1275Mhz/1650Mhz

*I need another radiator, what should I do now?*

Where do I put the other rad?
Is it really necessary?
Suggestions?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> CPU at 4.6 Ghz
> 4 x (7970)GPUs at 1050Mhz/1500Mhz
> When ambient temperature jumps to 28'C inside the case (during game) my water temperature spike to 32'C (stabalized). I feel the need to add another radiator especially if I want to overclock those cards at 1275Mhz/1650Mhz
> *I need another radiator, what should I do now?*
> 
> Where do I put the other rad?
> Is it really necessary?
> Suggestions?


You already have a really good temp temp there considering qual sli and OC *drooling hard*
How about external stand alone rad? or maybe get a bigger case like case labs?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> You already have a really good temp temp there considering qual sli and OC *drooling hard*
> How about external stand alone rad? or maybe get a bigger case like case labs?


I think I'll wait until next year and upgrade the case like you said. My Corsair 800D is 3 years old (yes 2009) .

Not sure yet about external but I was lurking at the Watercool MO-RA3 9x120 Pro this afternoon



Such a nice radiator. But I need to find the place for it, maybe wall mount with Quick Disconnects?


----------



## crazymofo

anybody experienced same problem with me for bitspower fittings? I need advice









http://www.overclock.net/t/1335478/how-to-clean-bitspower-fittings-added-pictures


----------



## ikem

well added a few thing to my rig.. not water yet.. but it is down the road!

which block do you think would look nice on the cpus?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO2obvs1WpM&


----------



## Sashimi

First WC build







Can I join the club?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> CPU at 4.6 Ghz
> 4 x (7970)GPUs at 1050Mhz/1500Mhz
> 
> When ambient temperature jumps to 28'C inside the case (during game) my water temperature spike to 32'C (stable). I feel the need to add another radiator especially if I want to overclock those cards at 1275Mhz/1650Mhz
> 
> *I need another radiator, what should I do now?*
> 
> Where do I put the other rad?
> Is it really necessary?
> Suggestions?


Time for a new case man.......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Time for a new case man.......


Needs one of these:



edit: ermmm.... the case!!!!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Sounds about right. I'm thinking about buying a new GPU just so I can get a block. 5870 blocks seem hard too find and cost too much in my opinion when I find one.


i gave one away for free 4 months back







brand new koolance 5850/70


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I think I'll wait until next year and upgrade the case like you said. My Corsair 800D is 3 years old (yes 2009) .
> Not sure yet about external but I was lurking at the Watercool MO-RA3 9x120 Pro this afternoon
> 
> Such a nice radiator. But I need to find the place for it, maybe wall mount with Quick Disconnects?


If you go for the MORA,

Why not make it into a standalone cooling module?

This is my 18 X 140; Connects with QDCs, has onboard PSU, and connects to a molex at the host for turn on - off control

Darlene


----------



## Qu1ckset

So early yesterday I made a decent size order on ppc to improve my build when I put it back together, it shipped out, and last night I realized I forgot to order one thing! Thank god it was a super small item so shipping was dirt cheap, have you guys done this before? Lol


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Anyone else have about $100 of misc water cooling parts sitting in shopping carts? This is driving me nuts. I knew I shouldn't have started water cooling. I'm already in for for about $200 and still don't have a gpu block.


This is How it Starts....







The Disease is Slowly spreading in YOU..


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> You already have a really good temp temp there considering qual sli and OC *drooling hard*
> How about external stand alone rad? or maybe get a bigger case like case labs?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> CPU at 4.6 Ghz
> 4 x (7970)GPUs at 1050Mhz/1500Mhz
> When ambient temperature jumps to 28'C inside the case (during game) my water temperature spike to 32'C (stable). I feel the need to add another radiator especially if I want to overclock those cards at 1275Mhz/1650Mhz
> *I need another radiator, what should I do now?*
> 
> Where do I put the other rad?
> Is it really necessary?
> Suggestions?


How about a custom made pedestal from Dwood?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I think I'll wait until next year and upgrade the case like you said. My Corsair 800D is 3 years old (yes 2009) .
> Not sure yet about external but I was lurking at the Watercool MO-RA3 9x120 Pro this afternoon
> Such a nice radiator. But I need to find the place for it, maybe wall mount with Quick Disconnects?


really wanna try the external stand alone rad to be honest, just cant imagine having it under desk blowing on my feet
I vote for case change







bigger one!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> How about a custom made pedestal from Dwood?


Hmmm, that could be and interesting IDEA.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> really wanna try the external stand alone rad to be honest, just cant imagine having it under desk blowing on my feet
> I vote for case change
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bigger one!


What case should I go with? Should I wait for the 900D ?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hmmm, that could be and interesting IDEA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case should I go with? Should I wait for the 900D ?


Seeing from 900D unveiled post
and if my chinese still there, I can read that the 900D can hold 2x480 or 2x360 and its not much of a change from 800D dont you think? and you will have the same problem again
I think if you wanna add more or bigger rads, you might wanna get much bigger case. I've been eye-ing the little devil case especially THIS one


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> CPU at 4.6 Ghz
> 4 x (7970)GPUs at 1050Mhz/1500Mhz
> When ambient temperature jumps to 28'C inside the case (during game) my water temperature spike to 32'C (stable). I feel the need to add another radiator especially if I want to overclock those cards at 1275Mhz/1650Mhz
> *I need another radiator, what should I do now?*
> 
> Where do I put the other rad?
> Is it really necessary?
> Suggestions?


MORA would be a nice solution for your build... or even better 2x MORA with fans in between...









Perhaps you have already seen this, but just in case...
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/31830#post_18578582

For any questions you have about mora, i will be glad to answer...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Seeing from 900D unveiled post
> and if my chinese still there, I can read that the 900D can hold 2x480 or 2x360 and its not much of a change from 800D dont you think? and you will have the same problem again
> I think if you wanna add more or bigger rads, you might wanna get much bigger case. I've been eye-ing the little devil case especially THIS one


The Little Devil V8 is the case I have been wanting for more than 2 years









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> MORA would be a nice solution for your build... or even better 2x MORA with fans in between...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps you have already seen this, but just in case...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/31830#post_18578582
> For any questions you have about mora, i will be glad to answer...


El Greco, very nice setup you have there







I have seen it already and I really like it.

I'll think about it but the only place I could mount the MO-RA3 is on the wall, I don't have any space on the desk.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Seeing from 900D unveiled post
> and if my chinese still there, I can read that the 900D can hold 2x480 or 2x360 and its not much of a change from 800D dont you think? and you will have the same problem again
> I think if you wanna add more or bigger rads, you might wanna get much bigger case. I've been eye-ing the little devil case especially THIS one
> 
> 
> 
> *
> The Little Devil V8 is the case I have been wanting for more than 2 years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> MORA would be a nice solution for your build... or even better 2x MORA with fans in between...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps you have already seen this, but just in case...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/31830#post_18578582
> For any questions you have about mora, i will be glad to answer...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> El Greco, very nice setup you have there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen it already and I really like it.
> 
> I'll think about it but the only place I could mount the MO-RA3 is on the wall, I don't have any space on the desk.
Click to expand...

Get one,its a great case.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> CPU at 4.6 Ghz
> 4 x (7970)GPUs at 1050Mhz/1500Mhz
> When ambient temperature jumps to 28'C inside the case (during game) my water temperature spike to 32'C (stable). I feel the need to add another radiator especially if I want to overclock those cards at 1275Mhz/1650Mhz
> *I need another radiator, what should I do now?*
> 
> Where do I put the other rad?
> Is it really necessary?
> Suggestions?


The answer the question "Is it really ncessary?'
As a normal human being: No, why would you? Your temps are fine now and you still have lots of OC headroom.
As a fellow watercooler: Hell yeah you need LOTS MOAAAAAR RADS!!!!!!!!!


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hmmm, that could be and interesting IDEA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case should I go with? Should I wait for the 900D ?


I suggest you wait for the 900D. It have seen it first hand and it is a very step up from the 800D. I am already waiting to order it.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-Worx*
> 
> Did some changes during yesterday and today with the setup. It seems like the EK green RTU liquid is alot more uv reactive than the blue i had that was a concentrate.
> Also tested some laser engraving on the wings and we also made an acrylic plate with engraving to the front panel. Shame that the photos are not showing the acrylic that well, but looks stunning live.
> What I also noticed, is the fact that i have changed the loop routing without even noticing. It seems like the first setup i ever made was made like EK says. That is Res-pump-rad-block-res.
> Then i have changed it during a radiator re-positioning to re-pump-block-rad-res.
> It seems like it doesn't really matter if cooling is considered., may be even a little better like that last one mentioned. Now running Phenom X4 965BE @ 3.9Ghz (1.450v) and NB @ 2200mhz (1.2v) and i hardly hit 30 degrees celsious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i think you deserve more appreciation for the loop in that case and that front effect.
could you please detail a bit more on that? (does it block airflow a lot? what is required to achieve it?)


----------



## Fonne

Is there any news about the Alphacool Monsta 140mm ? - Should be released in the end of this year, but nothing out yet ...


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Please keep posts about the content situation out of here. This is OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery not the I don't like the way OCN runs things thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Please keep posts about the content situation out of here. This is OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery not the I don't like the way OCN runs things thread.


Its is relevant to the club when the resource's we use are being hounded out and these rules affect a lot of the guys that post here as many post elsewhere.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Complaining about it in here will not do anything about it.

The fact is if Admin doesn't want to allow sponsored reviews then they won't be allowed.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Complaining about it in here will not do anything about it.
> 
> The fact is if Admin doesn't want to allow sponsored reviews then they won't be allowed.


So no more Bundy pics in this thread? Seeing as all his gear is sponsored and I am updating this thread,I need to know now before falling foul of these rules.


----------



## Rickles

wouldn't embedded video be disallowed too?? If so I am not sure if I put one in this thread or another but I know I did an embedded youtube somewhere..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> wouldn't embedded video be disallowed too?? If so I am not sure if I put one in this thread or another but I know I did an embedded youtube somewhere..


Probably.....

Seeing as this whole thread is content driven,i would be required to vet every pic and see if its been posted elsewhere...Is that even possible?
Can we have some clarification on this Bitemarks?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The whole not posting on other sites is being blown out of proportion, you can have content posted on other sites as well as here but things that involve advertising (sponsored reviews are more about advertising than say sponsored reviews)

Admin simply doesn't want companies to use our members as a cheap way of advertising.


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> The whole not posting on other sites is being blown out of proportion, you can have content posted on other sites as well as here but things that involve advertising (sponsored reviews are more about advertising than say sponsored reviews)
> Admin simply doesn't want companies to use our members as a cheap way of advertising.


Quote:


> Hi Martin
> 
> I have deleted your recent review thread as we are no longer allowing sponsored reviews, posting of reviews on other sites as well as OCN nor do we allow the use of watermarked images if they advertise another site.
> 
> If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact me.
> 
> Regards Moderator


I'd hazard a guess that the lack of continuity between moderators is where the problem may stem - you see Martin was told one thing via PM and had his work deleted but here you are insinuating the complete opposite.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

I am not insinuating the complete opposite. Martins thread was sponsored and had advertising watermarked images, whether it was posted on other sites I don't know but it would have been removed on the previous 2 facts even if it was only on OCN.

The fact that most build logs are all over the net including mine and other staff proves this ( I post to OCN first so I can enter MOTM then to other sites)

If anyone wants to continue this discussion please PM me as this is completely off topic.


----------



## NostraD

And just when I finally finished buying all my chrome Monsoon fittings for my build........



Monsoon carbon series!!! Why oh whyyyyyyyy - I would have waited had I known!!!!!

(From what I understand these are *actual carbon fiber* fittings - not just a creative design, wrap or applique).


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> And just when I finally finished buying all my chrome Monsoon fittings for my build........
> 
> Monsoon carbon series!!! Why oh whyyyyyyyy - I would have waited had I known!!!!!
> (From what I understand these are *actual carbon fiber* fittings - not just a creative design, wrap or applique).


Me want...


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> And just when I finally finished buying all my chrome Monsoon fittings for my build........
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon carbon series!!! Why oh whyyyyyyyy - I would have waited had I known!!!!!
> 
> (From what I understand these are *actual carbon fiber* fittings - not just a creative design, wrap or applique).










Really? You got a link? I couldn't find one with a quick Google search.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> And just when I finally finished buying all my chrome Monsoon fittings for my build........
> 
> Monsoon carbon series!!! Why oh whyyyyyyyy - I would have waited had I known!!!!!
> (From what I understand these are *actual carbon fiber* fittings - not just a creative design, wrap or applique).


Just after I buy a ton of Bitspower matte black CF's...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really? You got a link? I couldn't find one with a quick Google search.


Yeah, really. I didn't post a link in light of recent events. (I was too lazy to peruse the ToS ATM). I was not sure as to the policy in regard to ToS. However Gene with Monsoon posted it yesterday in another website's forum along with some dialogue as to what other colors to expect. He said to expect the first shipments to hit retailers just before Christmas. BoxGods Quote: _"Available at launch in black or red Carbon and white, stealth black, black chrome, chrome, or red bodies. Blue carbon and other body colors to follow."_


----------



## wermad

Fixed the plumbing to ensure parallel flow and correct input/output for all five blocks:



I'm still tossing some ideas for this build so mind the wire management and my new ssd i just threw in there


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> And just when I finally finished buying all my chrome Monsoon fittings for my build........
> 
> Monsoon carbon series!!! Why oh whyyyyyyyy - I would have waited had I known!!!!!
> (From what I understand these are *actual carbon fiber* fittings - not just a creative design, wrap or applique).


I'll buy some of those for my re-build! Look stunning.
Perhaps I'l post a build-log if its still allowed by then


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> Just after I buy a ton of Bitspower matte black CF's...


You'll be better off with those anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fixed the plumbing to ensure parallel flow and correct input/output for all five blocks:
> 
> I'm still tossing some ideas for this build so mind the wire management and my new ssd i just threw in there


I'm digging the loop.


----------



## wermad

Carbon fiber comp fittings, interesting









Can't wait for the first carbon fiber cpu block. Maybe the top retention bracket can be made out of real cf









quick!!!!!!!!! must patent this idea


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> And just when I finally finished buying all my chrome Monsoon fittings for my build........
> 
> Monsoon carbon series!!! Why oh whyyyyyyyy - I would have waited had I known!!!!!
> (From what I understand these are *actual carbon fiber* fittings - not just a creative design, wrap or applique).


the carbon fiber touch looks nice, but am i weird or something? , i like the looks of normal compression fittings over the monsoon fittings... if bp added a carbon fiber look to there fittings id be all over that!
but ya i guess to each there own.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> And just when I finally finished buying all my chrome Monsoon fittings for my build........
> 
> Monsoon carbon series!!! Why oh whyyyyyyyy - I would have waited had I known!!!!!
> (From what I understand these are *actual carbon fiber* fittings - not just a creative design, wrap or applique).


nooooooooooooooooooooo,

I just got 1 and 1/2 sets! maybe i'll ask for some from my sponsorship


----------



## golfergolfer

Am I the only one who doesn't find the monsoons that amazing? I mean yea they are nice and all and I use monsoons my self but I find the carbon fibre a bit overrated :/ That said is there anything wrong with using these kind of fittings? Bitspower 90 degree angle with compression fitting Actual fitting size is wrong but the fitting is the same


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You'll be better off with those anyway.


I just love the look of carbon fiber is all. I also agree, and can't wait to get them in next week..


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Am I the only one who doesn't find the monsoons that amazing? I mean yea they are nice and all and I use monsoons my self but I find the carbon fibre a bit overrated :/ That said is there anything wrong with using these kind of fittings? Bitspower 90 degree angle with compression fitting Actual fitting size is wrong but the fitting is the same


You're not the only one, I don't get what the big deal is about them. Yea they're in carbon fiber, cool....but in general, Monsoons don't really look that great when put in a loop.
That being said....what do you mean is there anything wrong with using them? I use them...actually is use this size right here. Click.
The only thing that would be wrong with them, but also applies to any 90, is you don't want to have too many 90's in your loop.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fixed the plumbing to ensure parallel flow and correct input/output for all five blocks:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still tossing some ideas for this build so mind the wire management and my new ssd i just threw in there


wermad, I'm confused on how the flow through the GPUs works? Wouldn't the water flow right though the top without going down through the rest of the block?


----------



## InsideJob

wermad correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it works like this.
(not sure about which side is in/out)


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> wermad, I'm confused on how the flow through the GPUs works? Wouldn't the water flow right though the top without going down through the rest of the block?


No. While it might seem that way, water will always follow the path of least resistance. If there is a cavity within the confines of the loop itself, the water will eventually fill it. There are always exceptions, such as air pockets that may require some mechanical persuasion. When you fill your loop, the water will travel through that first GPU block while SIMULTANEOUSLY flowing down to the next block, and the next , and the next. (Or _*UP*_ to the next - depending on where your fill port is).

My new God-daughter was here a little while ago and made me think ...If you have kids you may appreciate this...(or not). A cooling loop is kind of like feeding a baby a bottle. The loop (like the baby's stomach) has air in it. When you start pouring in fluid the air has to go somewhere or there is going to be problems. You throw the baby up on your shoulder and slap em on the back a few times to rattle that air loose. Then you pour more fluid in. Rinse and repeat until full! Some advice for water cooling novices = Burp your system regularly until full.









(Not suggesting in any way that you are a novice morencyam - just had a random thought...I do that from time-to-time).


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Am I the only one who doesn't find the monsoons that amazing? I mean yea they are nice and all and I use monsoons my self but I find the carbon fibre a bit overrated :/ That said is there anything wrong with using these kind of fittings? Bitspower 90 degree angle with compression fitting Actual fitting size is wrong but the fitting is the same


those carbon fiber ones looks crappy, like it was painted on with nail polish or something!


----------



## eskamobob1

I believe the confusion is that it looks like that blue tube is connected to the GPUs from that angle (I was kinda confused too







)


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You're not the only one, I don't get what the big deal is about them. Yea they're in carbon fiber, cool....but in general, Monsoons don't really look that great when put in a loop.
> That being said....what do you mean is there anything wrong with using them? I use them...actually is use this size right here. Click.
> The only thing that would be wrong with them, but also applies to any 90, is you don't want to have too many 90's in your loop.


hmm almost the right size







I am not really sure I guess just with them being all in one like that wasnt sure if there was anything different about them. Sadly I think I might have to run about 7 of them








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> those carbon fiber ones looks crappy, like it was painted on with nail polish or something!


And to both of you I am glad I am not the only one







I kinda agree that it just looks painted on myself







But to all who like them that is great and I would love to see a build with them just to prove me wrong


----------



## rusasus

*My first water cooling build.*.


*Core i7 930 4ghz
12 GB ram 1600mhz
powercolor 5870 cf
800w cm silent pro
Gigabyte X58A-UD3R

Danger Den DD-CPX Pro 12V 3 Pin Powered Pump - 237 GPH
XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Low Profile Split Fin Radiator
XSPC 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Black
PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall
Danger Den MPC-CPU CPU Liquid Cooling Block*



Upgrading to 3770k and 7970 in a couple of months.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusasus*
> 
> *My first water cooling build.*.
> 
> *Core i7 930 4ghz
> 12 GB ram 1600mhz
> powercolor 5870 cf
> 800w cm silent pro
> Gigabyte X58A-UD3R
> Danger Den DD-CPX Pro 12V 3 Pin Powered Pump - 237 GPH
> XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Low Profile Split Fin Radiator
> XSPC 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Black
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall
> Danger Den MPC-CPU CPU Liquid Cooling Block*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upgrading to 3770k and 7970 in a couple of months.


Looks good! Only part I dislike is that xfire bridge


----------



## rusasus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> Looks good! Only part I dislike is that xfire bridge


Haha, im also in the process of getting rid of the yellow pci cable connected to the top card and replacing it with the black modular cable.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> hmm almost the right size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not really sure I guess just with them being all in one like that wasnt sure if there was anything different about them. Sadly I think I might have to run about 7 of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And to both of you I am glad I am not the only one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda agree that it just looks painted on myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But to all who like them that is great and I would love to see a build with them just to prove me wrong


I use monsoons too. I would have went BP if I could have afforded it. You aren't the only one. I think those carbon fibre monsoons are super fugly. SUUUUPER.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> wermad correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it works like this.
> (not sure about which side is in/out)


I could be wrong as well, but since they're all run in parallel, I believe the top and bottom left ports are inlets, and the right ports outlets, or vice-versa. This could easily be done with a couple T-fittings or Y splitters in the back.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That pic has a lot of noise in it, I bet they might look better Live... is my guess..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> The whole not posting on other sites is being blown out of proportion, you can have content posted on other sites as well as here but things that involve advertising (sponsored reviews are more about advertising than say sponsored reviews)
> 
> Admin simply doesn't want companies to use our members as a cheap way of advertising.


Not to beat a dead horse into paste, but shouldn't sponsored builds fall into this category as well and aren't we already cheap advertising? I mean look at the following conversation and tell me that we aren't guilty of this everytime we post pics of our builds and post updates on upcoming product.

Sorry but my OCD doesn't see the difference here. Just so long as the manufacturers are not the ones posting this stuff I dont think that it should be an issue. Sponsored reviews notwithstanding so long as no one sponsor receives preferential treatment over all others.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> And just when I finally finished buying all my chrome Monsoon fittings for my build........
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon carbon series!!! Why oh whyyyyyyyy - I would have waited had I known!!!!!
> 
> (From what I understand these are *actual carbon fiber* fittings - not just a creative design, wrap or applique).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That pic has a lot of noise in it, I bet they might look better Live... is my guess..
Click to expand...

An here I just got myself new Monsoon Fittings over the last couple months. I might get some of those Carbon Greys to mix and match with my shiny Reds.









~Ceadder


----------



## xlink64

Added a few new toys to my loop. Got a Bitspower Flow Meter, some awesome ColdZero backplates, and upgraded the radiators to a push pull setup. Overall temps are down about 6 degrees C when gaming.









I have some Mayhem's Clear/UV blue dye but I'm undecided if I should add it in or not, I kind of like the way it looks right now.


----------



## kyismaster

Gene said those carbons are for "mod my toys" by performance pc's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> wermad correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it works like this.
> (not sure about which side is in/out)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: *snip*


The cpu is also part of the same parallel flow:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I could be wrong as well, but since they're all run in parallel, I believe the top and bottom left ports are inlets, and the right ports outlets, or vice-versa. This could easily be done with a couple T-fittings or Y splitters in the back.


No need to since the cpu is also running in parallel w/ the gpu blocks. I just needed a couple of angled fittings to divert the tube a bit towards the out-take of the cpu block. I could bend a longer piece but I like how it turned out


----------



## Dankal




----------



## K4IKEN

Where's the best place to find neoprene tubing?


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Where's the best place to find neoprene tubing?


I got my norprene from frozencpu but I believe sidewinders has it as well.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlink64*
> 
> Added a few new toys to my loop. Got a Bitspower Flow Meter, some awesome ColdZero backplates, and upgraded the radiators to a push pull setup. Overall temps are down about 6 degrees C when gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some Mayhem's Clear/UV blue dye but I'm undecided if I should add it in or not, I kind of like the way it looks right now.


I just ordered Mayhams Pink UV dye and Deep purple to make a UV purple color, but regretting getting the pink, because now i hear the pink stains the worst, i want to get the Clear UV blue to mix with my purple!

So if you end up wanting to get rid of your UV Clear Blue dye PM me!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I got my norprene from frozencpu but I believe sidewinders has it as well.


Performance-pcs has it as well


----------



## kyismaster

doing a little leak testing.... and uv testing....




Spoiler: Zoomable copy







Mmmm smart water looks so.... bright o___O

edit: this is mayhems clear blue UV, 1/2 batch diluted in the tubings,

full batch in the bottle.

I found it most useful with this stuff at a 1.25L to 10ML of dye...


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> I just ordered Mayhams Pink UV dye and Deep purple to make a UV purple color, but regretting getting the pink, because now i hear the pink stains the worst, i want to get the Clear UV blue to mix with my purple!
> So if you end up wanting to get rid of your UV Clear Blue dye PM me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Performance-pcs has it as well


Hey I have done it with the mayhems, and it works for about a day, then the tubes get stained. Then it shows as a nasty brown. Your best bet is to try actual UV purple tube. If you use just UV blue and the deep purple it is just a UV blue. The only other thing you could try is to dye the tubes and then fill them with UV blue and see if between the dyed tubes and UV blue fliud you could get some sort of purple filtered back to you.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Hey I have done it with the mayhems, and it works for about a day, then the tubes get stained. Then it shows as a nasty brown. Your best bet is to try actual UV purple tube. If you use just UV blue and the deep purple it is just a UV blue. The only other thing you could try is to dye the tubes and then fill them with UV blue and see if between the dyed tubes and UV blue fliud you could get some sort of purple filtered back to you.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that actually looks HORRIBLE!! , +1 Rep for those pics!

I think im just going to sell my Mayhams UV Pink Dye and UV cathode lights , and use Mayhams Deep Purple Dye and buy some Purple LED strips..

what do you guys think will better white or purple led strips?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Wow that actually looks HORRIBLE!! , +1 Rep for those pics!
> I think im just going to sell my Mayhams UV Pink Dye and UV cathode lights , and use Mayhams Deep Purple Dye and buy some Purple LED strips..
> what do you guys think will better white or purple led strips?


can't go wrong with white.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Wow that actually looks HORRIBLE!! , +1 Rep for those pics!
> I think im just going to sell my Mayhams UV Pink Dye and UV cathode lights , and use Mayhams Deep Purple Dye and buy some Purple LED strips..
> what do you guys think will better white or purple led strips?


I would say get the NZXT HUE and change it as much as you want. I had put easily $30 into cathodes and led strips.

Also I have some other stained tube from a different attempt that looks worse.


----------



## Qu1ckset

After looking on performance-pcs site, they dont have purple anyways, but there are so many different styles, and want your guys opinion on what style kit is better..
Here are the kits i have my eye on
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_921&products_id=29385
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_836&products_id=32236


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> After looking on performance-pcs site, they dont have purple anyways, but there are so many different styles, and want your guys opinion on what style kit is better..
> Here are the kits i have my eye on
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_921&products_id=29385
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_836&products_id=32236


Instead, check for "5050 RGB Led" on ebay.

It will cost you around 30$ and you'll only have to crimp two Molex Pins on the REd and Black power cables of the kit and you are good to go.

And by the way its 5 Meters and you can cut it to any lenght


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Instead, check for "5050 RGB Led" on ebay.
> It will cost you around 30$ and you'll only have to crimp two Molex Pins on the REd and Black power cables of the kit and you are good to go.
> And by the way its 5 Meters and you can cut it to any lenght
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


so do you have that pluged into the wall or to your power supply?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Its plugged into my power supply into a molex pin.

Don't take with the 120v adapter. The kit is made for 12v, the adapter is just to convert into 120v.

They send the kit with a small 12v adapter like this: (you see the cable at top), its Red and black cable, you just have to crimp a molex pin on each( red and black) and you insert the pins in a Molex Connector and you are done, really easy mod, I didnt even need a tutorial.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Instead, check for "5050 RGB Led" on ebay.
> It will cost you around 30$ and you'll only have to crimp two Molex Pins on the REd and Black power cables of the kit and you are good to go.
> And by the way its 5 Meters and you can cut it to any lenght


right when i buy phobya 0.6m for 30...

though the one i got is UV so still no regrets.


----------



## Attacktrak

Most new job













My custom pump with mix parts, Thermaltake P-500, Tube reservoir Phobya & Bitspower Top.



Jope you like it...


----------



## She loved E

Jep, i do.









What color is your fluid?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlink64*
> 
> Added a few new toys to my loop. Got a Bitspower Flow Meter, some awesome ColdZero backplates, and upgraded the radiators to a push pull setup. Overall temps are down about 6 degrees C when gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some Mayhem's Clear/UV blue dye but I'm undecided if I should add it in or not, I kind of like the way it looks right now.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WoW ! that is some SmMexxxY ! I'm luvving tha big fat tubing, shiny fittings, is the monitor throwing the blue look of the tubing behind glass pix ? And you did all that without any LED string, too !
All I can spot is a uv bar ? up top on the inside lip. And to think that this is in a Phantom - I was sure that it was either an Obsidian or sum such .... The dye would juice it quite a bit, but it all looks great now.
And your photog skills are impressive







Thats a subtle BLING ya got going


----------



## kamikaze_

i got the same brand LED's on my wall, but i don't have a nice little remote to change colors or a small power adapter, i got a brick for mine.


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> right when i buy phobya 0.6m for 30...
> though the one i got is UV so still no regrets.


Ya I also bough one of these buy failed to realize that i had to buy special lights so now i just have it sitting in a box lol so everyone just remember to buy the right LED's if you get one of these









BWT Attacktrak great HDD Placement must of been hell to get it there however


----------



## pcnoob1

updated.


----------



## Sjp770

This my work in progress, you can see the build log over at OCAU. 2nd EVGA GTX 680 Classified turns up this week!

HWLabs Black Ice GTX 560 mounted 100% inside an 800D, koolance PMP-500 with their bare type 30w controller. EVGA blocks for the soon to be 2x GPU's. EK supremacy water block for CPU, bitspower 150 res. I have a Black Ice 140mm SR1 rad I want to fit in somewhere soon too.


----------



## Tarnix

Ghetto chiller-thingy. Windex bottle, fabric and canada weather.









FX8350 @4.8/1.464v + Corsair H80 = 42C while folding


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> This my work in progress, you can see the build log over at OCAU. 2nd EVGA GTX 680 Classified turns up this week!
> HWLabs Black Ice GTX 560 mounted 100% inside an 800D, koolance PMP-500 with their bare type 30w controller. EVGA blocks for the soon to be 2x GPU's. EK supremacy water block for CPU, bitspower 150 res. I have a Black Ice 140mm SR1 rad I want to fit in somewhere soon too.


what a beauty, didnt know that 800d can fit 560 rad 0.0
worth taking the trip to OCAU to visit you log


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> This my work in progress, you can see the build log over at OCAU. 2nd EVGA GTX 680 Classified turns up this week!
> HWLabs Black Ice GTX 560 mounted 100% inside an 800D, koolance PMP-500 with their bare type 30w controller. EVGA blocks for the soon to be 2x GPU's. EK supremacy water block for CPU, bitspower 150 res. I have a Black Ice 140mm SR1 rad I want to fit in somewhere soon too.


Beautiful rig ya have there.

Made a few changes to mine, debating a build log (Missing pictures from a few steps). But enjoy the semi-finished product:









Enjoy!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> Most new job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My custom pump with mix parts, Thermaltake P-500, Tube reservoir Phobya & Bitspower Top.
> 
> 
> 
> Jope you like it...


I like the finish on the PSU and the case....what is that?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> i got the same brand LED's on my wall, but i don't have a nice little remote to change colors or a small power adapter, i got a brick for mine.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Posted in the water cooling thread why?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> This my work in progress, you can see the build log over at OCAU. 2nd EVGA GTX 680 Classified turns up this week!
> HWLabs Black Ice GTX 560 mounted 100% inside an 800D, koolance PMP-500 with their bare type 30w controller. EVGA blocks for the soon to be 2x GPU's. EK supremacy water block for CPU, bitspower 150 res. I have a Black Ice 140mm SR1 rad I want to fit in somewhere soon too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, great job on getting that rad up there! Good looking rig overall.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Posted in the water cooling thread why?


cuz can


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> This my work in progress, you can see the build log over at OCAU. 2nd EVGA GTX 680 Classified turns up this week!
> HWLabs Black Ice GTX 560 mounted 100% inside an 800D, koolance PMP-500 with their bare type 30w controller. EVGA blocks for the soon to be 2x GPU's. EK supremacy water block for CPU, bitspower 150 res. I have a Black Ice 140mm SR1 rad I want to fit in somewhere soon too.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Build. . Clean Pics Too.







Nice Pump!


----------



## Attacktrak

My fluid is EK Blood Red with a few drops of purple coolant.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> My fluid is EK Blood Red with a few drops of purple coolant.


Nice...what about the coating on your case and PSU? Is that something special you sprayed on there?


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Beautiful rig ya have there.
> Made a few changes to mine, debating a build log (Missing pictures from a few steps). But enjoy the semi-finished product:
> 
> Enjoy!


Saw your updated rig on cooledpc, looks awesome!


----------



## teamrushpntball

Yeah thanks, unfortunately couldn't figure out how to update my photos on there so I just made a new rig in their configuration thing.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> This my work in progress, you can see the build log over at OCAU. 2nd EVGA GTX 680 Classified turns up this week!
> HWLabs Black Ice GTX 560 mounted 100% inside an 800D, koolance PMP-500 with their bare type 30w controller. EVGA blocks for the soon to be 2x GPU's. EK supremacy water block for CPU, bitspower 150 res. I have a Black Ice 140mm SR1 rad I want to fit in somewhere soon too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This looks great. I never thought about the possibility of adding a 560 to a 800D. May I ask what kind of fans you are using on the rad?

EDIT: nvm, saw the log. The reason why I was wondering was because the 560 GTX is quite dense.


----------



## TeamBlue

I don't know if this belongs here or not, but I am pretty stoked that I just won the Xoxide BOTM for November!  YEP!


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Yeah thanks, unfortunately couldn't figure out how to update my photos on there so I just made a new rig in their configuration thing.


I've been e-mailing Eddy back and forth, sounds like there is no way to do it. Only way to go when switching categories is to make a new one.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Well that sucks, I didn't have many votes but it was certainly more than the 1 I have now. And went and voted for you, been trying to vote for every rig I recognize from in here.

Edit- Congrats on the win!


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Well that sucks, I didn't have many votes but it was certainly more than the 1 I have now. And went and voted for you, been trying to vote for every rig I recognize from in here.
> Edit- Congrats on the win!


Thanks! Got ya back!


----------



## intelman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> I don't know if this belongs here or not, but I am pretty stoked that I just won the Xoxide BOTM for November!  YEP!


Nice, I'm the third place there (even though they tagged someone else on my build







). I voted for you though









OT: I haven't posted here in a very long time, so here it is


----------



## dark7721

hi not sure where to ask this but i want to find my max temps on my rig befor i water cool it just wonder wat i need to do i take it i need to run prim 95 and real temps but have never use this so dont have a clue what settings to set plz help and thanks in advance kind regards andrew


----------



## teamrushpntball

I'd run HWmonitor as well for a few extra readings. As for Prime95 just run the in-place large fft's for maximum heat generation I believe.

Make sure to run prime for a good 2-4 hours to get your baseline.


----------



## Attacktrak

Check this out, is RustOleum paint Stone finish, very cool









http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=79

This is for PSU


And this for Case


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> I don't know if this belongs here or not, but I am pretty stoked that I just won the Xoxide BOTM for November!  YEP!


Congrats!


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> I don't know if this belongs here or not, but I am pretty stoked that I just won the Xoxide BOTM for November!  YEP!


Well deserved!

Now, about that CooledPC Competition....


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Was just chekking Aquatuning.de and Alphacool new GTX670 block is pretty nice ...
> *Alphacool NexXxoS NVXP Nvidia GTX670*
> http://www.aquatuning.de/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Alphacool%20GTX670&
> *brushed stainless steel - black*
> 
> *polished - copper*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *polished stainless steel - black*
> 
> *polished stainless steel - silver*
> 
> *And inside + bottom*
> 
> 
> *Backplate*


Thanks a lot!


----------



## kyismaster

anyone stumble upon some gun-metal paint?


----------



## wermad

Tamiya makes some nice dark-gray/gunmetal paint. Though in small quantities


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tamiya makes some nice dark-gray/gunmetal paint. Though in small quantities


Dat Mustang....









Do you do models too werm?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tamiya makes some nice dark-gray/gunmetal paint. Though in small quantities


100ml can for... 7 dollars... god painting a case would be expensive.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Dat Mustang....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you do models too werm?


Nah, I just pulled that from the web. I might start collecting Mecha models and doing some touch ups, or something like that in the future.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 100ml can for... 7 dollars... god painting a case would be expensive.


Like I said, small quantities. You can always get some automotive paint :. But I'm sure that's expensive too


----------



## TeamBlue

EDIT: Nothing to see here.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Well deserved!
> Now, about that CooledPC Competition....


See I actually did replace my xspc d5 bay res with an EK spinner and an ek d5 x-top just for that contest.




Craptacular cell shots just for proof... Don't hate too much.


----------



## socketus

I'll try it here - I've got the Mips cpu block for 1155 and I'm having a bit of a dodgy time with it, figuring how it all goes together, hoping someone here knows something bout it.

I have a question for you, bn - I have the Mips cpu block for an Intel 1155 chip/mobo. I think I get the assembly, but would luv to hear from you that I have it right. The paper diagram is a little vague on separation of parts above and below the mobo, imo.


It looks like the red 3/4 washers go above the mobo - goofy little things. That's the only question I have.

The rest of the install appears to be normal, bracket and nuts below, block etc above. But if you have any tips, please share ! There's very little info to be found on the net; looks like this block is a bit of a rarity, altho cpachris has a copper version.

*ADD*: ok, i have a 2nd ask. The pad that sits between the bracket and the socket base ? I take it that the orange side faces up .... ?
I thought the orange side peeled off for a sticky, but its not at all.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> anyone stumble upon some gun-metal paint?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can always get some automotive paint :. But I'm sure that's expensive too
Click to expand...

Automotive paint is the way to go IMHO. You have so many choices. Yes, it gets expensive if you don't have a Gun and Compressor and you have it loaded to an Aerosol can.
I was picking out some new colors for a project a couple days ago and came across some amazing Grey's.


----------



## Roder J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Automotive paint is the way to go IMHO. You have so many choices. Yes, it gets expensive if you don't have a Gun and Compressor and you have it loaded to an Aerosol can.
> I was picking out some new colors for a project a couple days ago and came across some amazing Grey's.


Growing up in my fathers shop that how I used to paint up my cases in the 90's. glass bead them in the sand blaster then mod, prime, and spend forever picking a color to mix up..
For the one looking for a gun metal grey if you go to like a Finish masters or other decent automotive paint store Ford has an older Gothic grey metalic and I think honda had the same color thats pretty sweet IMO. down side is it may cost ya! another thought would be to check your local comunity college for an autobody program. Usually they dont charge labor just materials and will paint just about anything..


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Automotive paint is the way to go IMHO. You have so many choices. Yes, it gets expensive if you don't have a Gun and Compressor and you have it loaded to an Aerosol can.
> I was picking out some new colors for a project a couple days ago and came across some amazing Grey's.


I got a huge compressor just no gun.


----------



## itz.clint

Heres my rig updated from before:
Added new colour tubing, a custom res, a new pump and the second rad on top heres some pics. Waiting for the new gfx cards to release so I can run a SLI/CF setup with waterblocks then Im done... Hope you like how it looks atm, will give it a proper clean when Im finished


----------



## kcuestag

Hey guys,

I have an i7 3930k and a Rampage IV Extreme being delivered to me today, and I have an EK Supreme HF Plexi which I use right now on the i7 2600k, I checked the box and it does have a plastic bag with screws for LGA 2011 socket, is there anything else I'd need or will this block be fine for this socket?


----------



## driftingforlife

That block fits fine. I use the black one.


----------



## itz.clint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have an i7 3930k and a Rampage IV Extreme being delivered to me today, and I have an EK Supreme HF Plexi which I use right now on the i7 2600k, I checked the box and it does have a plastic bag with screws for LGA 2011 socket, is there anything else I'd need or will this block be fine for this socket?


Along as you have the 2011 backplate and screws you should be fine, just remember to use some really good non conductive thermal paste normally the pea method works the best due to it not trapping air others might have different opinions but this works best for me.


----------



## kcuestag

Well everything arrived!











Now the fun part (NOT!







), draining the loop, removing the whole loop, gpu's, motherboard, and placing this stuff into the case, then installing loop again, and filling it up.

It's going to be a long evening.


----------



## NewHighScore

Is BNEG gone now because of that whole ordeal with the mods and martin? I haven't seen him in this thread since then.


----------



## PCModderMike

Says he's currently viewing the thread right now







Maybe just been busy. Although I'm not sure how accurate that feature is sometimes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Is BNEG gone now because of that whole ordeal with the mods and martin? I haven't seen him in this thread since then.


Still here mate.
Working a lot right now,very busy bear right now.

That was between Martin and OCN management,not me.

My concern is the OCN ownership situation regarding content rather than Martins situation,i can go to Martins site if they wont allow it here.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> This is my new build, I changed my two 5850 and 5870 for two 6970.
> I had some fittings that were broken (90' and snake rotary). I had to modify my loop to be able to have enough fittings without ordering new ones, shiping is killing me, there is no snake rotary in Canada, especially black sparkle ones. (To check my old build, click here (better pictures))


Wow...thats some serious usage on your startup menu, could probably make your pc even faster by cleaning that up....just a thought


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still here mate.
> Working a lot right now,very busy bear right now.
> That was between Martin and OCN management,not me.
> My concern is the OCN ownership situation regarding content rather than Martins situation,i can go to Martins site if they wont allow it here.


ok just checkin.









I seen you express your views in the thread so I was just wondering.


----------



## kcuestag

Everything installed!



Haven't tried overclocking it yet, but these thing is a beast.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Everything installed!
> 
> Haven't tried overclocking it yet, but these thing is a beast.


Looking nice! Leak testing at the moment I presume?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Looking nice! Leak testing at the moment I presume?


I leak tested for about an hour, I know the ideal would be to let it run overnight, but I just couldn't wait to try it out.









It's not up and running, going to overclock the 3930k.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I leak tested for about an hour, I know the ideal would be to let it run overnight, but I just couldn't wait to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not up and running, going to overclock the 3930k.


congrats on the new setup, very nice


----------



## teamrushpntball

Haha I can understand the being impatient part. Goodluck on a "golden" chip.


----------



## freitz

Nice setup looks good. Glad to see you switch to 2011!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> Most new job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My custom pump with mix parts, Thermaltake P-500, Tube reservoir Phobya & Bitspower Top.
> 
> 
> 
> Jope you like it...


So you finally stuffed a 360 in the front. It's starting to look really cramped in that case.







I like where the HDD is mounted, I was having hard time trying to hide my hdd since I removed all the bays, but I found a nice spot for it behind the rad. I had a little leak problem with the res cylinder and my build is on hold until I get a BP res from PCModderMichaelAngelo.









Spoiler: I think I can fit a RX360 in there?






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> This my work in progress, you can see the build log over at OCAU. 2nd EVGA GTX 680 Classified turns up this week!
> HWLabs Black Ice GTX 560 mounted 100% inside an 800D, koolance PMP-500 with their bare type 30w controller. EVGA blocks for the soon to be 2x GPU's. EK supremacy water block for CPU, bitspower 150 res. I have a Black Ice 140mm SR1 rad I want to fit in somewhere soon too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I didn't think another 800D build would wow me, but this build did. Nice work!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Everything installed!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't tried overclocking it yet, but these thing is a beast.


Looking good! What are your temps like? Curious to know how the 540 rad is holding up.


----------



## mironccr345

Doh! Double Post!


----------



## SmurfsRCool

I received a couple of packages.. I wonder what they could be?!?!







Not to knock UPS or anything.. but the box I received from them is in pretty rough shape!




Spoiler: LET THE FUN BEGIN!



Despite the poor reviews on the Primoflex tubing, I decided to give the new stuff a try.




I also purchased some 90's, but I didn't feel like taking a close-up shot.




Now this is my first watercooling build, so expect some cries for help in the near future







Next to come; 670 blocks, cpu block, pump and res.


----------



## evilnumber18

could i use a swiftech gtx480-HS with a XSPC RayStorm High Performance Universal GPU Block for my gtx 480


----------



## NewHighScore

i'm dumb disregard this post wrong thread. i keep doing that.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Everything installed!
> 
> Haven't tried overclocking it yet, but these thing is a beast.


LOL, we keep coping each other, you get i silverstone raven, i get a raven, you use masterkleer purple uv tubing, i do the same, i upgrade from a 2500k to a 3930k, you upgrade your 2600k to 3930k, whats next!!!!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I received a couple of packages.. I wonder what they could be?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to knock UPS or anything.. but the box I received from them is in pretty rough shape!
> 
> 
> 
> Despite the poor reviews on the Primoflex tubing, I decided to give the new stuff a try.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also purchased some 90's, but I didn't feel like taking a close-up shot.
> 
> 
> Now this is my first watercooling build, so expect some cries for help in the near future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to come; 670 blocks, cpu block, pump and res.


That isn't the new Primochill tubing though. You have the PRO LRT in the picture, while Primochill's new tubing is the Advanced LRT.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Everything installed!
> 
> Haven't tried overclocking it yet, but these thing is a beast.


Is that a P9x79 WS?


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> That isn't the new Primochill tubing though. You have the PRO LRT in the picture, while Primochill's new tubing is the Advanced LRT.


Thanks for the save there! I'll have to place a new order I suppose!


----------



## Aftermath2006

heres my watercooled build Pics


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that a P9x79 WS?


It says in his sig:
Quote:


> Latest Upgrades: i7 3930k + ASUS Rampage IV Extreme + 16GB Kingston Predator 2133MHz


Not to mention the RAMAGE IV EXTREME plastered between his two video cards.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that a P9x79 WS?


It's a RIVE. Just look at the VRM- and the chipset heatsinks. It's the Kingston RAM that fools the eye


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heres my watercooled build Pics


600T acrylic panel from MNpctech? Love the glow on the edges.


----------



## Idef1x

Just wanted to share a quick photo of my rig, and tell that I'm having really good results with clear Masterkleer and EK Blood Red coolant. I have yet to discover any clouding, and some of this tubing has inthere for over a month.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> This is my new build, I changed my two 5850 and 5870 for two 6970.
> I had some fittings that were broken (90' and snake rotary). I had to modify my loop to be able to have enough fittings without ordering new ones, shiping is killing me, there is no snake rotary in Canada, especially black sparkle ones. (To check my old build, click here (better pictures))


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Wow...thats some serious usage on your startup menu, could probably make your pc even faster by cleaning that up....just a thought










Not sure if serious? Its only some Aida64 Icon Sensor.

And this is my OLD build with socket 1366. (Post is from 2011)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to share a quick photo of my rig, and tell that I'm having really good results with clear Masterkleer and EK Blood Red coolant. I have yet to discover any clouding, and some of this tubing has inthere for over a month.


Awsome build idefix, and nice color theme. I really like the coolant effect









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that a P9x79 WS?


The RAM makes it look like a P9x79 but if you look closely at the heatsink, its a RIVE !


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to share a quick photo of my rig, and tell that I'm having really good results with clear Masterkleer and EK Blood Red coolant. I have yet to discover any clouding, and some of this tubing has inthere for over a month.


Great looking build you have there. Everything looks really clean and well laid out. Looks like you use another GPU or two though








EDIT: Spoiler tag


----------



## Aftermath2006

yes it is the 600t clear side panel from mnpctech yeah the glow was a very awesome surprise it really set the hole build off exactly how i wanted


----------



## Qu1ckset

Masterkleer Purple UV tubing after 1 month with distilled water and silver killcoil


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Here's a wider picture of my wee little setup. I have to say that I just love my 32 inch LG when watching 3D flicks. It's the perfect distance on the desk to give me that full cinematic experience. Overall it's a pretty quiet rig, but two things: 1) The loop setup isn't all that appealing to me at this point, now that my feet are wet in water cooling. And 2) I'd like to try my luck at case modifying, which means that I may end up with something else more unique.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> LOL, we keep coping each other, you get i silverstone raven, i get a raven, you use masterkleer purple uv tubing, i do the same, i upgrade from a 2500k to a 3930k, you upgrade your 2600k to 3930k, whats next!!!!


You are so right.









So far I got it to 4.6GHz, but to be fair I am not liking how voltage hungry this chip is so far, I need ~1.42v for 4.6GHz (HT Enabled) stable, not sure if that's really bad or just a bit worse than average, but oh well, this chip is a beast, 4.6GHz will serve me well.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that a P9x79 WS?


ASUS Rampage IV Extreme.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Masterkleer Purple UV tubing after 1 month with distilled water and silver killcoil


That's why I picked it up blue and not clear, because I knew it would most likely have plasticizer, but I don't mind since I can't notice it unless I open up the tubing.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to share a quick photo of my rig, and tell that I'm having really good results with clear Masterkleer and EK Blood Red coolant. I have yet to discover any clouding, and some of this tubing has inthere for over a month.


That is super nice!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to share a quick photo of my rig, and tell that I'm having really good results with clear Masterkleer and EK Blood Red coolant. I have yet to discover any clouding, and some of this tubing has inthere for over a month.


Is your return line run behind the motherboard tray?


----------



## SimpleTech

I don't know why I've been procrastinating so long to get this new rad installed but I finally did it last night.


----------



## TwentyCent

Cool setup! What is that case?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Well everything arrived!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the fun part (NOT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), draining the loop, removing the whole loop, gpu's, motherboard, and placing this stuff into the case, then installing loop again, and filling it up.
> It's going to be a long evening.


I would water cool those VRM's if you really want to push that chip, those VRM's get hot!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Cool setup! What is that case?












http://www.amazon.com/Whitmor-6071-3436-Supreme-3-Tier-Shelving/dp/B004BDP69W


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Cool setup! What is that case?


It's the latest revision of Antec's Lanboy Air.


----------



## kyismaster




----------



## wermad

ah, so that's where the last Monsta 480 went


----------



## eskamobob1

lol... i love how 25mm fans look slim line on monsta rads


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is your return line run behind the motherboard tray?


Actually it's the outlet, that goes behind the motherboard tray and return is through all the components








I had a line running in front of my video cards, but when I bought the 680 Ligthning, it just didn't look right anymore since the new card was ever so slightly longer than my 6950s.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That is super nice!


Thanks!







Gotta love positive feedback.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Great looking build you have there. Everything looks really clean and well laid out. Looks like you use another GPU or two though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Spoiler tag


Thanks a lot!







I thought about getting a second Lightning, but I have concluded that it would purely be for looks, epeen and luls.







This one clocks to 1400 MHz core 24/7, so I have no problems at 1440p at all at the moment.


----------



## iandroo888

mine :] yay finally get to contribute to this XD !


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to share a quick photo of my rig, and tell that I'm having really good results with clear Masterkleer and EK Blood Red coolant. I have yet to discover any clouding, and some of this tubing has inthere for over a month.
> 
> 
> 
> Is your return line run behind the motherboard tray?
Click to expand...

Its likely routed underneath the top cover. Thats what I would do.









~Ceadder


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Its likely routed underneath the top cover. Thats what I would do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It goes behind the motherboard tray, but in my case it is the outlet and not the return. If it went underneath the top cover, it would potentially block the IO and it would require some modding.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Its likely routed underneath the top cover. Thats what I would do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It goes behind the motherboard tray, but in my case it is the outlet and not the return. If it went underneath the top cover, it would potentially block the IO and it would require some modding.
Click to expand...

Good to know... Have you thought about making a hard line to route around the I/O panel? Shouldn't block anything off if done properly.









~Ceadder


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine :] yay finally get to contribute to this XD !


Nice! Loving that Blood Red Coolant/Dye. Primochill?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good to know... Have you thought about making a hard line to route around the I/O panel? Shouldn't block anything off if done properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The mod wouldn't be worth it IMO. Especially since the tube can be easily routed through the mobo tray.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> The mod wouldn't be worth it IMO. Especially since the tube can be easily routed through the mobo tray.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My thoughts exactly. Here is how I have done the routing. Please don't mind the mess:


----------



## kyismaster

So... Does anyone wanna help me figure out where to put a drain in my loop?



Order: Res/pump > white rad > cpu > Black rad > res/pump


----------



## MiiX

Does your rad have a bottom plug? could use that for a drain port.
Not done watercooling myself, but as far as I can see you can put a T-block at your top radiator and fit a small hose there that you can mount with a drain port or just have it long enough to take out of the case when draining. Then tip the case and gravity will do its job


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> So... Does anyone wanna help me figure out where to put a drain in my loop?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Order: Res/pump > white rad > cpu > Black rad > res/pump


You could add a quick-disconnect at the furthest inlet on the bottom radiator. Then you could quite easily drain the entire upper part of the loop. The last bit in the lower radiator will be troublesome in almost every configuration.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Does your rad have a bottom plug? could use that for a drain port.
> Not done watercooling myself, but as far as I can see you can put a T-block at your top radiator and fit a small hose there that you can mount with a drain port or just have it long enough to take out of the case when draining. Then tip the case and gravity will do its job


Mine do







Don't see why you can't use it as a drain. I'd recommend to ensure its at a low point though.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Does your rad have a bottom plug? could use that for a drain port.
> Not done watercooling myself, but as far as I can see you can put a T-block at your top radiator and fit a small hose there that you can mount with a drain port or just have it long enough to take out of the case when draining. Then tip the case and gravity will do its job


nope. uhhh, im not sure if I follow.

how about all the water trapped in the rads?









Edit: I got a T joint and a plug already, just need to know where I should put the T. im willing to reroute the tubing - ordered 8 feet just to install this T.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! Loving that Blood Red Coolant/Dye. Primochill?


Mayhems !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> So... Does anyone wanna help me figure out where to put a drain in my loop?
> 
> Order: Res/pump > white rad > cpu > Black rad > res/pump


i'd say before or after the white rad. T-line's for drain usually at lowest point of loop. thats how i did mine as well.

why an itx board in such a large case LOL


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> nope. uhhh, im not sure if I follow.
> how about all the water trapped in the rads?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I got a T joint and a plug already, just need to know where I should put the T. im willing to reroute the tubing - ordered 8 feet just to install this T.


It should be here: or see this: http://images.thecoolingshop.com/product_images/large/TC_35279_3.jpg

Perfect for drain ports. The last picture is a ACool UT60


----------



## wermad

This is what alphacool has on their new rads. They do include a plug for it.


----------



## Jorvin

putt at T joint at the top radiator and tilt the computer so the back is down.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> Mayhems !
> i'd say before or after the white rad. T-line's for drain usually at lowest point of loop. thats how i did mine as well.
> why an itx board in such a large case LOL


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> putt at T joint at the top radiator and tilt the computer so the back is down.


Alright I'll let you know lol. -crosses fingers-


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is what alphacool has on their new rads. They do include a plug for it.


one of those holes would be handy for radiators


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> one of those holes would be handy for radiators


you could make your own


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> you could make your own


no thx HAHA


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> Mayhems !
> i'd say before or after the white rad. T-line's for drain usually at lowest point of loop. thats how i did mine as well.
> why an itx board in such a large case LOL


Cause I used to have a prodigy, Now I have a badass sponsored r4


----------



## LuckyNumber13

2 questions.
1. Has anyone used Mayhem's Pastel White/Uv blue coolant?
if so how is performance and how well does the uv blue show up
through the tubing.
2. what is a good clear tubing to get.doesn't matter how much
it costs just has to be really good.i'm thinking of switching my
solid white/uv blue tubing with clear tubing and pastel white/uv blue coolant.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I've used Ice Dragon, which is the basis for Mayhems, it's a pastel white. I've used it in two different loops now, and then added a UV blue dye to give me a pastel blue look, but the UV effect does not show at all. A good clear tubing is Durelene which is available from Sidewinders. To see pics of the UV blue mixed in with a pastel white like Mayhems check my sig rig.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I've done the same. Using IceDragon with Feser UV Dye. But like PCmodderMichealAngelo said, the UV isn't reactive. Back then, the only place you can buy Mayhem's pastels colors were directly from Mayhem's website and SpecialTech. I figured since IceDragon was used as the basis for Mayhems pastels coolants, it wouldn't hurt to test out different dye's with IceDragon and see what kind of colors I get.


What you guys are doing incorrectly,is starting off with a non UV pastel and then adding UV dye-i have the UV white pastel from Mayhem's and it does give off a UV effect.

The problem as i remember Mick telling me, is that you would need a huge amount of UV dye added to a non UV pastel to get the desired effect. How do they do it?

Tricks of the trade, i guess.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> 2 questions.
> 1. Has anyone used Mayhem's Pastel White/Uv blue coolant?
> if so how is performance and how well does the uv blue show up
> through the tubing.
> 2. what is a good clear tubing to get.doesn't matter how much
> it costs just has to be really good.i'm thinking of switching my
> solid white/uv blue tubing with clear tubing and pastel white/uv blue coolant.


I've used Ice Dragon, which is the basis for Mayhems, it's a pastel white. I've used it in two different loops now, and then added a UV blue dye to give me a pastel blue look, but the UV effect does not show at all. A good clear tubing is Durelene which is available from Sidewinders. To see pics of the UV blue mixed in with a pastel white like Mayhems check my sig rig.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I've used Ice Dragon, which is the basis for Mayhems, it's a pastel white. I've used it in two different loops now, and then added a UV blue dye to give me a pastel blue look, but the UV effect does not show at all. A good clear tubing is Durelene which is available from Sidewinders. To see pics of the UV blue mixed in with a pastel white like Mayhems check my sig rig.


I've done the same. Using IceDragon with Feser UV Dye. But like PCmodderMichealAngelo said, the UV isn't reactive. Back then, the only place you can buy Mayhem's pastels colors were directly from Mayhem's website and SpecialTech. I figured since IceDragon was used as the basis for Mayhems pastels coolants, it wouldn't hurt to test out different dye's with IceDragon and see what kind of colors I get.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> 2 questions.
> 1. Has anyone used Mayhem's Pastel White/Uv blue coolant?
> if so how is performance and how well does the uv blue show up
> through the tubing.
> 2. what is a good clear tubing to get.doesn't matter how much
> it costs just has to be really good.i'm thinking of switching my
> solid white/uv blue tubing with clear tubing and pastel white/uv blue coolant.


I don't think you can, well maybe not practically... I say this because pastel is opaque and therefore much harder to get the UV reactants ( I think Mick calls them 'nanoparticles') to reflect the UV light back. Basically you would have to have so many of the UV reactive particles that you would need the coolant to be saturated with them so that the out surface would have enough reflectors to get back to your eye. As the opaque nature of a pastel prohibits light from penetrating the entire volume of the tube. A "scratching the surface" of sorts.

You can however get a white pastel and a colored dye and make a custom pastel, but I wouldn't count on it being UV reactive.








Rickles


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> 2 questions.
> 1. Has anyone used Mayhem's Pastel White/Uv blue coolant?
> if so how is performance and how well does the uv blue show up
> through the tubing.
> 2. what is a good clear tubing to get.doesn't matter how much
> it costs just has to be really good.i'm thinking of switching my
> solid white/uv blue tubing with clear tubing and pastel white/uv blue coolant.


duralene tubing you can find it at petra's pc shop

69c per foot for me.


----------



## kyismaster

Do you guys think that 10ML per 1L for Mayhem Clear UV is a little over kill?

thats like 1/100 ratio


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> I tried over at the 'Cable' thread, but they were more interested in praising each other rigs, than helping out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so sorry to go off topic, but, could anyone please tell me what size braiding/heatshrink i should order to sleeve my cables of my new D5 vario pump(with tach cable)?
> Thanks in advance thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you guys are doing incorrectly,is starting off with a non UV pastel and then adding UV dye-i have the UV white pastel from Mayhem's and it does give off a UV effect.
> The problem as i remember Mick telling me, is that you would need a huge amount of UV dye added to a non UV pastel to get the desired effect. How do they do it?
> Tricks of the trade, i guess.


Good thing I wasn't going for the UV look.







I already had a bottle of Blue UV dye from my previous loop. I figured I'd use the same dye instead of buying new dye. I was curious to see if the coolant would be UV reactive after mixing it with the IceDragon coolant. I wasn't banking on it and it of course didn't work. But I got the color I was looking for regardless of the coolant being UV reactive.


----------



## kkorky

Sorry db post-please remove


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> I still like the effects that you guys get from using plain pastel and blue-suits certain rigs really well


Yea I was super happy with the effect it gave mine...worked out pretty good IMO. But no UV reaction at all, but I wasn't really going for that anyway.

I've been having trouble getting the same shade of blue with the new loop though...it's a lot more coolant than the previous setup, and it's having a hard time mixing in fully.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Good thing I wasn't going for the UV look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already had a bottle of Blue UV dye from my previous loop. I figured I'd use the same dye instead of buying new dye. I was curious to see if the coolant would be UV reactive after mixing it with the IceDragon coolant. I wasn't banking on it and it of course didn't work. But I got the color I was looking for regardless of the coolant being UV reactive.


I still like the effects that you guys get from using plain pastel and blue-suits certain rigs really well









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yea I was super happy with the effect it gave mine...worked out pretty good IMO. But no UV reaction at all, but I wasn't really going for that anyway.
> 
> I've been having trouble getting the same shade of blue with the new loop though...it's a lot more coolant than the previous setup, and it's having a hard time mixing in fully.


Thats why you should keep a note of how much of each 'ingredient' you use in your various mixtures/experiments.

I've seen your NZXT rig and the blue colour you achieved quite a bit around the forum, and ive always said that that colour is really nice, it would suit my MSI mobo perfectly


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Thats why you should keep a note of how much of each 'ingredient' you use in your various mixtures/experiments.
> I've seen your NZXT rig and the blue colour you achieved quite a bit around the forum, and ive always said that that colour is really nice, it would suit my MSI mobo perfectly


The problem isn't that I don't know how much to add, or how to create the right mix.....it's just that it won't mix together period.







The res is to large, that when adding dye, it's having a hard time making it's way all around the loop and mixing in fully. Any suggestions from anyone? Keeping in mind of done the "standard" stuff like shaking and rocking, even sticking something inside the res to try to stir it....


----------



## animal0307

Crank your pump all the way up?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Crank your pump all the way up?


It's the B version, so no variable speed


----------



## ericlee30

Here is mine


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The problem isn't that I don't know how much to add, or how to create the right mix.....it's just that it won't mix together period.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The res is to large, that when adding dye, it's having a hard time making it's way all around the loop and mixing in fully. Any suggestions from anyone? Keeping in mind of done the "standard" stuff like shaking and rocking, even sticking something inside the res to try to stir it....


Ive always noticed, that the guys that are very particular about getting the colour just right, mix their various colours *OUTSIDE* of their rigs-use a 1 ltr empty water bottle for example, then you can experiment till you get the exact colour you need, then simply pour it into your res/loop


----------



## wermad

Meh, i just drop the dye in until its good enough


----------



## coffeine

You can catch my buildlog down in my sig or over at OCAU. (This is a custom case, one of a kind







)

Still need to work on the motherboard armour, gpu backplate and lightbox, but will probably have to wait after New Years, busy busy busy!

Thinking of wrapping my ram in carbon vinyl to get rid of the horrid blue colour, or does anyone want to swap ram? :lol:

Yes... I know, it looks like I pissed in my loop, the tube has a horrible yellow tinge to it, will have to swap it out soon for either duralene or new primo clear + a pastel colour or maybe just some black tubing


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Ive always noticed, that the guys that are very particular about getting the colour just right, mix their various colours *OUTSIDE* of their rigs-use a 1 ltr empty water bottle for example, then you can experiment till you get the exact colour you need, then simply pour it into your res/loop


And I've used that method before, mixing up the coolant with the colour *OUTSIDE* of the loop....*BUT* if you don't know exactly how much coolant your loop is going to take and you premix everything, add it to the loop and then your short....well then you have to add more of the base white coolant anyway and the colour is off. Now you're probably going to tell me I should order a whole bunch extra and premix more than I need?







Well I do budget my builds and don't really want to spend extra if I don't have to. So I dunno, I've played with both and they've both got their pros and cons. For me, and other guys I know that are particular about their colour too, they get the loop almost full and then add dye until the desired colour is reached. Again, the amount of dye I have in there is going to give me the colour I want, if it would just mix fully. Maybe I should take the 90 off the pump top, and change it to a 45? Maybe it's restricting the loop as soon as it comes off the pump and that's why it won't flow properly and mix the dye?
*sigh* Last ditch effort, if it really bugs me....guess I could just drain it, mix it well, and add it right back. Thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yea I was super happy with the effect it gave mine...worked out pretty good IMO. But no UV reaction at all, but I wasn't really going for that anyway.
> 
> I've been having trouble getting the same shade of blue with the new loop though...it's a lot more coolant than the previous setup, and it's having a hard time mixing in fully.


As usual. looks good as FK!


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coffeine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes... I know, it looks like I pissed in my loop, the tube has a horrible yellow tinge to it, will have to swap it out soon for either duralene or new primo clear + a pastel colour or maybe just some black tubing


Mmmmm apple juice..


----------



## bundymania

http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_9281e1jgd.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_9272iokpd.jpg


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_9281e1jgd.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_9272iokpd.jpg


Wow, that fan controller looks *A LOT* like my Lamptron FC Touch. All the "icons" are in the exact same place and look exactly the same. It's like they took the screen out of a Lamptron and put it in their own housing


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_9281e1jgd.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_9272iokpd.jpg


Having one of these, all I can say is "It is powerful and noisy, so extremely powerful, it will even suck the air (bubbles) through the res. and loop. Running it at only 6v, makes it some what audibly acceptable and manageable"


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coffeine*


that tubing is ready to be changed out.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_9281e1jgd.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_9272iokpd.jpg


Heeey Bundy is still hanging around...love your backplates.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> And I've used that method before, mixing up the coolant with the colour *OUTSIDE* of the loop....*BUT* if you don't know exactly how much coolant your loop is going to take and you premix everything, add it to the loop and then your short....well then you have to add more of the base white coolant anyway and the colour is off. Now you're probably going to tell me I should order a whole bunch extra and premix more than I need?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I do budget my builds and don't really want to spend extra if I don't have to. So I dunno, I've played with both and they've both got their pros and cons. For me, and other guys I know that are particular about their colour too, they get the loop almost full and then add dye until the desired colour is reached. Again, the amount of dye I have in there is going to give me the colour I want, if it would just mix fully. Maybe I should take the 90 off the pump top, and change it to a 45? Maybe it's restricting the loop as soon as it comes off the pump and that's why it won't flow properly and mix the dye?
> *sigh* Last ditch effort, if it really bugs me....guess I could just drain it, mix it well, and add it right back. Thanks for the suggestions.


Should have went with what you know works, two bottles of EK dye.








The colors are identical, but I used two bottles of Blue UV Feser Dye.


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Is there any reason a D5 Vario can't/shouldn't be controlled by a fan controller? I bought the pump thinking I would have no controller in my build but now I have a Lamptron FC5v2.


My D5 Strong requires 3 to 33 watts of power and 1.9 amps. If your controller can handle those needs then go for it.

I chose to get a proper 24volt pump controller from Koolance as apposed to running from a fan controller.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Should have went with what you know works, two bottles of EK dye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The colors are identical, but I used two bottles of Blue UV Feser Dye.


What? I'm using what I always have used....when I used EK dye, it was with water....I've always used dye bombs with my ID.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Having one of these, all I can say is "It is powerful and noisy, so extremely powerful, it will even suck the air (bubbles) through the res. and loop. Running it at only 6v, makes it some what audibly acceptable and manageable"


Thanks for posting that. Have not ran mine yet and wondered about the noise.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Is there any reason a D5 Vario can't/shouldn't be controlled by a fan controller? I bought the pump thinking I would have no controller in my build but now I have a Lamptron FC5v2.
> 
> 
> 
> My D5 Strong requires 3 to 33 watts of power and 1.9 amps. If your controller can handle those needs then go for it.
> 
> I chose to get a proper 24volt pump controller from Koolance as apposed to running from a fan controller.
Click to expand...

The power req's you quoted are at 24v. At 12v its around 23w and capable of being put on a FC5 or over (30w PC)


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> What? I'm using what I always have used....when I used EK dye, it was with water....I've always used dye bombs with my ID.


Eh, we just talked about this.


----------



## Hooded

Yes that was for a 24 volts.

I thought to get best performance out of D5's that you should run them on 24 volts?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Wow, that fan controller looks *A LOT* like my Lamptron FC Touch. All the "icons" are in the exact same place and look exactly the same. It's like they took the screen out of a Lamptron and put it in their own housing


Might be a rebranded G-Vans controller, they don't seem to have a European distributor.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itz.clint*
> 
> Heres my rig updated from before:
> Added new colour tubing, a custom res, a new pump and the second rad on top heres some pics. Waiting for the new gfx cards to release so I can run a SLI/CF setup with waterblocks then Im done... Hope you like how it looks atm, will give it a proper clean when Im finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why an external rad?


----------



## itz.clint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Why an external rad?


Why not, it has one in the case and with my xspc 320 kit I bought it came with theses stands so I mounted the second up top since I hate them on the back I think it looks and turned out good. Tbh why spend 4 dollars less and get a 240 just to go into you case with the removal of the lower hdd bay when I can use them.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itz.clint*
> 
> Why not, it has one in the case and with my xspc 320 kit I bought it came with theses stands so I mounted the second up top since I hate them on the back I think it looks and turned out good. Tbh why spend 4 dollars less and get a 240 just to go into you case with the removal of the lower hdd bay when I can use them.


Good point.


----------



## iandroo888

@mironccr345 - that blue looks amazing


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> @mironccr345 - that blue looks amazing


Thanks! I haven't posted a pic of my rig since the new GPU and block. Only because my phone pic's suck and the lighting in my room isn't the best.


----------



## Rickles

well, I think very shortly (read: when I get 35 rep and can sell my stuff here) I will be switching back to air and a SFF case, Or maybe I will try to get a h60 mod going in a sugo09


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> well, I think very shortly (read: when I get 35 rep and can sell my stuff here) I will be switching back to air and a SFF case, Or maybe I will try to get a h60 mod going in a sugo09


I made this move a few months ago. Though, you can achieve similar temps on the cpu, it will require a bit more effort on the gpu and the case to get decent temps. Other then that, you'll have to put up w/ lots of heat and enough noise to make you think your at the beginning of run-way #1


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> well, I think very shortly (read: when I get 35 rep and can sell my stuff here) I will be switching back to air and a SFF case, Or maybe I will try to get a h60 mod going in a sugo09


Hmm seems to be the trend lately. Over the past couple years, my cases have gotten bigger and bigger, with more and more money being dumped into my loops....well I've decided to cut back myself.
Just ordered one of these









All my water cooling stuff will be on the marketplace


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Might be a rebranded G-Vans controller, they don't seem to have a European distributor.


Even if that is the case, the GVans is identical to the Lamptron one as well. I wonder what ever happened with that whole Lamptron vs GVans debacle a few months back


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hmm seems to be the trend lately. Over the past couple years, my cases have gotten bigger and bigger, with more and more money being dumped into my loops....well I've decided to cut back myself.
> Just ordered one of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All my water cooling stuff will be on the marketplace


That was the other one I was considering but the price point is double the sugo09. Basically, my wife has threatened to shoot my computer enough that I am starting to think she is serious.


----------



## num1son

I understand that the CPU really doesn't need watercooling anymore (for decent OCs), but GPU's are so noisy and ugly aircooled. I'm sticking with water for awhile for sure.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hmm seems to be the trend lately. Over the past couple years, my cases have gotten bigger and bigger, with more and more money being dumped into my loops....well I've decided to cut back myself.
> Just ordered one of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All my water cooling stuff will be on the marketplace


Aint nothing wrong with that !! still, at first ....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> I understand that the CPU really doesn't need watercooling anymore (for decent OCs), but GPU's are so noisy and ugly aircooled. I'm sticking with water for awhile for sure.


I have to say that IB and SB-E took a step back compared to the thermal performance of SB. These guys would benefit more from water then air.

SB has been super sweet. That's what I'm reluctant to go back to SB-E or let alone, try IB.


----------



## Rickles

for me the problem is I keep trying to add more or different things to my loop and I don't see an end in sight, unless I can get rid of it all. I mean I had my last PC for 4 years and never touched it.. this thing goes about 2-3 weeks before I change something. Want to sell my stuff while it is still newish so I can cover the cost of a new case/mobo a accelero and maybe psu.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hmm seems to be the trend lately. Over the past couple years, my cases have gotten bigger and bigger, with more and more money being dumped into my loops....well I've decided to cut back myself.
> Just ordered one of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All my water cooling stuff will be on the marketplace


Is this going to be your main?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> for me the problem is I keep trying to add more or different things to my loop and I don't see an end in sight, unless I can get rid of it all. I mean I had my last PC for 4 years and never touched it.. this thing goes about 2-3 weeks before I change something. Want to sell my stuff while it is still newish so I can cover the cost of a new case/mobo a accelero and maybe psu.


If you're constantly upgraded, then it makes sense to air cool. If you don't mind the "drawbacks", then its a good idea.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hmm seems to be the trend lately. Over the past couple years, my cases have gotten bigger and bigger, with more and more money being dumped into my loops....well I've decided to cut back myself.
> All my water cooling stuff will be on the marketplace


I realize that each person is different... but if I were you I'd just hold on to that WC stuff unless you're simply planning on rebuying a bunch when you inevitably go back to water after you go deaf.









I think I've done the big->small->big->small thing about 10 times since the early 90's... now I have a Case Labs case so I think that actually counts as being even bigger than 'big' but I also have a couple of ITX builds around along with my Mac Mini.. so I do understand the 'small is beautiful' thing as well.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I realize that each person is different... but if I were you I'd just hold on to that WC stuff unless you're simply planning on rebuying a bunch when you inevitably go back to water after you go deaf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I've done the big->small->big->small thing about 10 times since the early 90's... now I have a Case Labs case so I think that actually counts as being even bigger than 'big' but I also have a couple of ITX builds around along with my Mac Mini.. so I do understand the 'small is beautiful' thing as well.


I was planning to do itx after my CL build. Its nice to have both but WC is a money pit, fun but a money pit.


----------



## TSXmike

so ive got a black w/ white accents setup in the works ('i5 in a box' in my sig).

looking for some ideas to make the WC system "pop".

was thinking maybe mayhems pastel sunset yellow, pastel grape or light red.

thoughts?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I was planning to do itx after my CL build. Its nice to have both but WC is a money pit, fun but a money pit.


Yeah, it certainly is that... but if you aren't happy with stock clocks (or like my new passive 3570K HTPC build - _under_ stock volt/clock) it's usually more work. I know I've spent at least two to three times as much time working on getting far less impressive and/or stable overclocks in my air cooled rigs than in my water cooled one - even with the same hardware.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> so ive got a black w/ white accents setup in the works ('i5 in a box' in my sig).
> looking for some ideas to make the WC system "pop".
> was thinking maybe mayhems pastel sunset yellow, pastel grape or light red.
> thoughts?


I'd say any of those dyes would do a good job... although I'm not a fan of the WC system being the only accent color in a rig - I'm probably in the minority in that regard.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have to say that IB and SB-E took a step back compared to the thermal performance of SB. These guys would benefit more from water then air.
> SB has been super sweet. That's what I'm reluctant to go back to SB-E or let alone, try IB.


Sure, IB runs hotter, but it actually makes less heat and in my experience requires less voltage to hit 'the wall' of the chip. If you pop the lid and go direct to die you can get away with air quite nicely. That said, I won't ever have a heatsink based cooling setup in my rig... I like my quiet rigs.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> I understand that the CPU really doesn't need watercooling anymore (for decent OCs), but GPU's are so noisy and ugly aircooled. I'm sticking with water for awhile for sure.


Yea for a reference card I can understand your thoughts, but a 680 Lightning is not very loud with the air cooler, and it's sexy IMO.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Aint nothing wrong with that !! still, at first ....












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I realize that each person is different... but if I were you I'd just hold on to that WC stuff unless you're simply planning on rebuying a bunch when you inevitably go back to water after you go deaf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I've done the big->small->big->small thing about 10 times since the early 90's... now I have a Case Labs case so I think that actually counts as being even bigger than 'big' but I also have a couple of ITX builds around along with my Mac Mini.. so I do understand the 'small is beautiful' thing as well.


Maybe I would be better off holding onto it, temporarily just in case.







In case I discover I've lost my mind.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yea for a reference card I can understand your thoughts, but a 680 Lightning is not very loud with the air cooler, and it's sexy IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I would be better off holding onto it, temporarily just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case I discover I've lost my mind.


I think you've lost your mind lol.


----------



## kyismaster

im getting a 7950 twin frozr 2 it looks so pretty, though i want to put a water block on it









any suggestions?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I think you've lost your mind lol.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> im getting a 7950 twin frozr 2 it looks so pretty, though i want to put a water block on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any suggestions?


Check out *this* block. According to the compatibility list, the MSI Twin Frozr is listed.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Starbomba

Here's my HTPC v2, back from the ashes of my old pump which burned up. I have not changed a lot of stuff, other than the tubes, added Petra's red dye, and changed orientation of some things to avoid tube kinking.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Check out *this* block. According to the compatibility list, the MSI Twin Frozr is listed.
> Jeffinslaw


changed my mind, im now getting a sapphire 7950



a block for this card?


----------



## Attacktrak

There you go... i do some changes in my wif's PC (it's nothing special, just i want show you, not competing)



I will finish two more PC


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> There you go... i do some changes in my wif's PC (it's nothing special, just i want show you, not competing)
> 
> I will finish two more PC


that is sweet.


----------



## kyismaster

XSPC Razor 7970 vs EK Radeon HD FC7970 - Acetal?


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> im getting a 7950 twin frozr 2 it looks so pretty, though i want to put a water block on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> Check out *this* block. According to the compatibility list, the MSI Twin Frozr is listed.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

I bought that waterblock for my 7950 TF3 and since my TF3 is one with the reference 7970 PCB it doesn't fit







. It will fit if you have one with the reference 7950 PCB.

On that note if anybody is looking for one of those Alphacool blocks I have a brand new one and matching backplate if anybody is interested, I've listed it on eBay three times and no takers lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> XSPC Razor 7970 vs EK Radeon HD FC7970 - Acetal?


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> changed my mind, im now getting a sapphire 7950
> a block for this card?


I have the same card and picked up this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088

Still waiting on fittings before I can confirm it fits though. Pretty sure it will fit. That card is tricky to find a block for. Most 79xx blocks don't work on that guy.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


lol if you could link me to it from a US seller


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I have the same card and picked up this:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088
> Still waiting on fittings before I can confirm it fits though. Pretty sure it will fit. That card is tricky to find a block for. Most 79xx blocks don't work on that guy.


my model is 109-C38637-00

and i got fittings


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> my model is 109-C38637-00
> and i got fittings


Lucky you.







There's a compatibility chart in that link I posted. Pretty sure yours is identical to mine.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Lucky you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a compatibility chart in that link I posted. Pretty sure yours is identical to mine.


yeah, i hope im lucky, we will see.


----------



## Bart

I should have fittings in a couple of days if you want to hold off and let me test it before you spend the money. I'd have it test fitted already, but I don't have a spare PC or spare vid card.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I should have fittings in a couple of days if you want to hold off and let me test it before you spend the money. I'd have it test fitted already, but I don't have a spare PC or spare vid card.


alright let me know. I got a few extra monsoon fittings loool, few i bought and few I got sponsored.


----------



## Rickles

If any of you would like to help me appraise my loop I would appreciate it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1337933/appraisal-water-cooling-gear


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> All my water cooling stuff will be on the marketplace


What the What??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol if you could link me to it from a US seller


yeah, sold out....send ppcs an email about availability


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I have the same card and picked up this:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088
> Still waiting on fittings before I can confirm it fits though. Pretty sure it will fit. That card is tricky to find a block for. Most 79xx blocks don't work on that guy.


How dark is the finish on that? I thought about getting it but couldn't tell just how dark the black finish was from the picture.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> XSPC Razor 7970 vs EK Radeon HD FC7970 - Acetal?


one (7970)block to rule them all...


from my Narada build log.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> one (7970)block to rule them all...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from my Narada build log.


Nice! I have the same block sitting beside me here at my computer, I'm just waiting for the card to get back to me from RMA though. Can't wait.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> How dark is the finish on that? I thought about getting it but couldn't tell just how dark the black finish was from the picture.


It's dark, but its a dark mirror finish. This is the best pic I could get of it:


----------



## SimpleTech

I know Primochill had a bad rap with their crappy tubing but I noticed just now that it's on sale for $8.99 w/ free shipping (Prime members).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047EG75C/

Kind of tempted to take a chance and see if it's still on par with my 2-year old tubing that I have left over.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I know Primochill had a bad rap with their crappy tubing but I noticed just now that it's on sale for $8.99 w/ free shipping (Prime members).
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047EG75C/
> 
> Kind of tempted to take a chance and see if it's still on par with my 2-year old tubing that I have left over.


I have been using Primochill for a couple years and have been very happy with the way it holds up and its workability.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Nice! I have the same block sitting beside me here at my computer, I'm just waiting for the card to get back to me from RMA though. Can't wait.


thank you sir! ah i absolutely hate rma's lol i feel your pain! take some pics when you get it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I know Primochill had a bad rap with their crappy tubing but I noticed just now that it's on sale for $8.99 w/ free shipping (Prime members).
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047EG75C/
> Kind of tempted to take a chance and see if it's still on par with my 2-year old tubing that I have left over.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I have been using Primochill for a couple years and have been very happy with the way it holds up and its workability.


i've been using primochill for 3 years so far. and i dont have any complaints whatsoever. personally i think that's a great deal. i say pull the trigger on it!


----------



## wermad

Duralene in action











Too tired to do the wire management...some other day


----------



## LiquidHaus

dang wermad you could put about 8 of my cases inside your new one lol


----------



## bundymania

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13560/fan-890/Feser_Triebwerk_V2_TK-123_120mm_x_55mm_High_Speed_Fan_-_2800_RPM.html

Fans for 99 Cents.....


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13560/fan-890/Feser_Triebwerk_V2_TK-123_120mm_x_55mm_High_Speed_Fan_-_2800_RPM.html
> Fans for 99 Cents.....


thats alot of CFM for 99 cents


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13560/fan-890/Feser_Triebwerk_V2_TK-123_120mm_x_55mm_High_Speed_Fan_-_2800_RPM.html
> Fans for 99 Cents.....


65 in stock as im checking.... 64.35$ fans to cool my whole room! omg omg omg better deal than a proper room fan and Im sure it would be alot cooler


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> 65 in stock as im checking.... 64.35$ fans to cool my whole room! omg omg omg better deal than a proper room fan and Im sure it would be alot cooler


What about when you get blown away


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> There you go... i do some changes in my wif's PC (it's nothing special, just i want show you, not competing)
> 
> I will finish two more PC


that is a sweet looking pc


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> What about when you get blown away


I'll just point out they run fine at 5 volts and are reasonably loud at that voltage so not really bad. .99 is just insane. I ordered 25 I already own 6. You can also use the code xtreme for another 5.1% off lol.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13560/fan-890/Feser_Triebwerk_V2_TK-123_120mm_x_55mm_High_Speed_Fan_-_2800_RPM.html
> Fans for 99 Cents.....


Only 1 left Now.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13560/fan-890/Feser_Triebwerk_V2_TK-123_120mm_x_55mm_High_Speed_Fan_-_2800_RPM.html
> Fans for 99 Cents.....


Dang, too slow - placed order for 20...only 1 left







/sigh


----------



## morencyam

Wow! $.99!? I kind of wish I had seen that sooner. I definitely would have ordered a few. Weren't they normally like $25 a piece at one point?


----------



## Attacktrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> There you go... i do some changes in my wif's PC (it's nothing special, just i want show you, not competing)
> 
> I will finish two more PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that is a sweet looking pc
Click to expand...

Thaks, I will finish two more soon, i'll show you when it redy.


----------



## pledgy

Pictures from previous post!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> There you go... i do some changes in my wif's PC (it's nothing special, just i want show you, not competing)
> 
> I will finish two more PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that is a sweet looking pc
Click to expand...

No doubt. Showed it to my GF an she actually liked how it looks. I am now encouraged that if I build her a computer(I will be) that she'll let me water cool it.







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pledgy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures from previous post!


Very nice setup. Just another one that I will show my GF to get my way.









~Ceadder


----------



## pledgy

Joys of being single is that there is no arguing







and the money you might spend on your partner you could spend on you system?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> And just when I finally finished buying all my chrome Monsoon fittings for my build........


Anyone know if Monsoon has released any further information on these fittings?

They dropped the ball on releasing the angled fittings, which unfortunately forced me to go with another brand to finish my loop, so I hope they don't do the same with these. If these look as good as I think they will in person, I may just start my next build a little early.


----------



## Mrxxxxxxxxxx17

Unknow pump,
unknown plexy radiator
Ek waterblock for 775 (fitting am3 with "meccano")
oc labs gpu wb

Case: Silverstone "lascala"
cpu phenom 955
vga amd hd 6950
fans: ac ryan (green)

i removed all the hdd and 5.25" bays to fit the radiator in the front








hope you like!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Anyone know if Monsoon has released any further information on these fittings?
> They dropped the ball on releasing the angled fittings, which unfortunately forced me to go with another brand to finish my loop, so I hope they don't do the same with these. If these look as good as I think they will in person, I may just start my next build a little early.


Not yet.

All Gene said was: "Shipping in a week so resellers should have them just before Christmas. BAH-ZOWIE!" (12/07/2012) So they should ship this weekend - or Monday. But resellers HAVING them doesn't necessarily make them AVAILABLE. PPCS had the angled Monsoon fittings for a good 2 weeks before they listed them on their site. They said the photography and actual addition to the site itself is what takes so long. Going by that, and the fact it is the busy holiday season, I wouldn't look for them to be listed until after the first of the year.

(They are actually being made for ModMyToys.com, and they will be selling them through PPCS and FCPU).


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Anyone know if Monsoon has released any further information on these fittings?
> They dropped the ball on releasing the angled fittings, which unfortunately forced me to go with another brand to finish my loop, so I hope they don't do the same with these. If these look as good as I think they will in person, I may just start my next build a little early.


edit NostraD basically hit it on the nail


----------



## wermad

A carbon fiber tool would be a nice touch for the monsoon fittings


----------



## Rickles

Well water cooling club,

It's been great but all my stuff will be going up in the for sales this weekend. Send me a PM if there is anything your interested in.

Adios,
Rickles


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Well water cooling club,
> It's been great but all my stuff will be going up in the for sales this weekend. Send me a PM if there is anything your interested in.
> Adios,
> Rickles










Good luck and you're always welcome to return to the land of aqua.....


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A carbon fiber tool would be a nice touch for the monsoon fittings


Maybe not the tool itself, but an inlay or finger grip of some kind with a rubber coating. I have 3 of their wrenches from the multiple six packs I've purchased earlier this year, and all three have been torqued and twisted from overly tight tubing to the point where they all have a slight bend. Particularly on the side with the hole.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Maybe not the tool itself, but an inlay or finger grip of some kind with a rubber coating. I have 3 of their wrenches from the multiple six packs I've purchased earlier this year, and all three have been torqued and twisted from overly tight tubing to the point where they all have a slight bend. Particularly on the side with the hole.


So the wrench is a bit weak? Would be more reason to make one from cf










Or at least a faux textured applique









Btw, any fittings that were damaged or over torqued easily? I have a friend who is drooling over them but I want to make sure its not gonna be any issues for him.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Maybe not the tool itself, but an inlay or finger grip of some kind with a rubber coating. I have 3 of their wrenches from the multiple six packs I've purchased earlier this year, and all three have been torqued and twisted from overly tight tubing to the point where they all have a slight bend. Particularly on the side with the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> So the wrench is a bit weak? Would be more reason to make one from cf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or at least a faux textured applique
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, any fittings that were damaged or over torqued easily? I have a friend who is drooling over them but I want to make sure its not gonna be any issues for him.
Click to expand...

Yeah the Monsoon wrenches are a tad weak. They seem to bend in my hand as I use them. Still do the job but you have to use them carefully.









~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Maybe not the tool itself, but an inlay or finger grip of some kind with a rubber coating. I have 3 of their wrenches from the multiple six packs I've purchased earlier this year, and all three have been torqued and twisted from overly tight tubing to the point where they all have a slight bend. Particularly on the side with the hole.


lol? I only used one wrench and rebent it back in place when this happened haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So the wrench is a bit weak? Would be more reason to make one from cf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or at least a faux textured applique
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, any fittings that were damaged or over torqued easily? I have a friend who is drooling over them but I want to make sure its not gonna be any issues for him.


The wrench is sometimes a little impractical, but you seriously can get the compressions on with your fingers, your thumbs will hurt for weeks if that matters to you.

The fittings knotches get a little roughed up but not to the point they are useless

ITs not really over torqued, it sometimes slips, its like trying to open a door knob but with only 2 pins, and if you don't really get it knotched right and flush the door handle will jump and fall off.

I suggest using your hands first, and when it gets too hard for your hands use the tool to finish it off.

not that these don't hold regardless, these hold down so well it sometimes grabs onto the tubing to the point where its like a cat on a curtain. you aren't moving that cat anytime soon.

some protip someone said was to let your rig run for a little while and then give it about another spin and you'll be set. (( after the tube has done setting from the heat of your system for the very first time. ))

make sure you have tweezers aka pliers to straighten it out a little bit. (( the wrench )) they should make it out of construction steel instead or something, or titanium .


----------



## Ceadderman

Titanium? Yeah that would easily add about $10 to the price of the kit, if not more. I would rather they made it out of tinfoil than increase the cost by that much. Especially with the thin plating on the fittings. I like tha Monsoons but the level of construction doesn't warrant a Titanium tool.









~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Titanium? Yeah that would easily add about $10 to the price of the kit, if not more. I would rather they made it out of tinfoil than increase the cost by that much. Especially with the thin plating on the fittings. I like tha Monsoons but the level of construction doesn't warrant a Titanium tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










i would pay for it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If your fingers are hurting from the knurling on compression fittings,try winding a rubber band around the fitting before tightening then cut it off when you are done.
Better grip and no rough knurling.


----------



## wermad

My new Duralene is a tad smaller then my old Primochill and the Enzotech compression fittings were such a breeze to install. I'm able turn the locking piece almost all the way through. With the primochill, its thick and grabbing and turning the threads is a pita.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If your fingers are hurting from the knurling on compression fittings,try winding a rubber band around the fitting before tightening then cut it off when you are done.
> Better grip and no rough knurling.


i'll keep that in mind... -stares at my thumbs-


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Well water cooling club,
> It's been great but all my stuff will be going up in the for sales this weekend. Send me a PM if there is anything your interested in.
> Adios,
> Rickles


why are you leaving us?


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If your fingers are hurting from the knurling on compression fittings,try winding a rubber band around the fitting before tightening then cut it off when you are done.
> Better grip and no rough knurling.


what about using a rubber finger protectors?

http://www.officemax.com/office-supplies/mailroom-equipment/sorting-aids-moisteners/product-ARS21668


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> why are you leaving us?


I keep putting more and more $$$ into my build* while my other hobbies (guns and guitars) are becoming more prominent, not to mention the wife and kiddos. Not using my computer enough to warrant $500 in cooling gear, although I know I will miss it. I really don't this much. I am on the fence about downgrading my gpu as it is a great clocker, but again kinda overkill.

There is still a chance that I will dig up my h60 and put a copper 120mm on that with a swiftech micro res that I have laying around, but that depends on how well this 212+ does.

*example: I have 18 monsoon fittings... how I got to this many is kinda beyond me..


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I keep putting more and more $$$ into my build* while my other hobbies (guns and guitars) are becoming more prominent, not to mention the wife and kiddos. Not using my computer enough to warrant $500 in cooling gear, although I know I will miss it. I really don't this much. I am on the fence about downgrading my gpu as it is a great clocker, but again kinda overkill.
> There is still a chance that I will dig up my h60 and put a copper 120mm on that with a swiftech micro res that I have laying around, but that depends on how well this 212+ does.
> *example: I have 18 monsoon fittings... how I got to this many is kinda beyond me..


o__O same.

I only have 11 monsoon fittings, so maybe I should slowly back away haha.

says i spent 1000 on who knows what this month


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I keep putting more and more $$$ into my build* while my other hobbies (guns and guitars) are becoming more prominent, not to mention the wife and kiddos. Not using my computer enough to warrant $500 in cooling gear, although I know I will miss it. I really don't this much. I am on the fence about downgrading my gpu as it is a great clocker, but again kinda overkill.
> There is still a chance that I will dig up my h60 and put a copper 120mm on that with a swiftech micro res that I have laying around, but that depends on how well this 212+ does.
> *example: I have 18 monsoon fittings... how I got to this many is kinda beyond me..


So you are kicking the habit, good for you... wanting to get rid of your watercooling addiction


----------



## bundymania

Check this out, ALL from TFC for 99 Cents

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=ECFuDnk5&searchspec=feser&go.x=0&go.y=0


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My new Duralene is a tad smaller then my old Primochill and the Enzotech compression fittings were such a breeze to install. I'm able turn the locking piece almost all the way through. With the primochill, its thick and grabbing and turning the threads is a pita.


Yeah I noticed that 1/2" x 3/4" Monsoons are rather tight on PrimoChill tubing. I figure I will be picking up 1/2" x 5/8" to replace it. Should work just fine, given how tight Monsoon compression collars are on that tubing.

~Ceadder


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Check this out, ALL from TFC for 99 Cents
> http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=ECFuDnk5&searchspec=feser&go.x=0&go.y=0


Bundy you posted that 12 hours ago...?
AND they were ALL gone 4 hours later!


----------



## Hamy144

UHOH

So I was getting a lot of driver crashes on my previously stable 7950 so i rebooted and opened up afterburner and the temp was at 60, and rising quickly.
Same goes for the CPU,

I assumed the pump (DDC 3.25) had gone and got my tester PSU out, now the first time I started it up all went well, the second time it sounded like a car trying to start but wouldn't, third time bingo started again.
What are my options do we think?
New pump?
Just go with it and hope for the best?
Attempt a fix? if there is even one.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> UHOH
> So I was getting a lot of driver crashes on my previously stable 7950 so i rebooted and opened up afterburner and the temp was at 60, and rising quickly.
> Same goes for the CPU,
> I assumed the pump (DDC 3.25) had gone and got my tester PSU out, now the first time I started it up all went well, the second time it sounded like a car trying to start but wouldn't, third time bingo started again.
> What are my options do we think?
> New pump?
> Just go with it and hope for the best?
> Attempt a fix? if there is even one.


Could be a short. Any wires/connectors that may be suspect?
3-pin or 4-pin power? Original power supply lines or modded? Direct connect to PSU? (I'm guessing it was when testing it).


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Could be a short. Any wires/connectors that may be suspect?
> 3-pin or 4-pin power? Original power supply lines or modded? Direct connect to PSU? (I'm guessing it was when testing it).


4 pin molex, no shorts, after a few rumbles it does start eventually.
Still quite worrying. what to do what to do.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Bundy you posted that 12 hours ago...?
> AND they were ALL gone 4 hours later!


First Link was for the fans only..now ALL for 99 cents


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So the wrench is a bit weak? Would be more reason to make one from cf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or at least a faux textured applique
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, any fittings that were damaged or over torqued easily? I have a friend who is drooling over them but I want to make sure its not gonna be any issues for him.


I'm a bit reluctant to say this because I don't like badmouthing companies, but I've had my fair share of problems getting their fittings off. In most cases when I'm trying to remove the fittings from the block, the barb comes loose from the block while I'm trying to unscrew the compression fitting. And as a result, the entire tube, barb, and compression fitting are all twisting at once. Because the tubing is so tight on the barb, and because the compression fitting is tight on the tube, everything twists all at once. I've easily spend 1/4 of the time on this scenario when it came to replacing the tube, or reinstalling it on the block. And because I'm trying so hard to get each piece seperated, I end up scratching myself, or warping the tool. Once I get the entire thing off, I just hold on to the fitting and twist the tubing while holding on to the compression fitting. Admittedly, I've used the side of the tool despite the fact that the round end is designed to screw in the barb. I did this because I was in a restrictive space, or the tool began to hurt my fingers from the effort of screwing it on or off using the rounded end.

Don't get me wrong, I love the design of the fittings and would obviously buy them again if I'm considering their new carbon fiber fittings. It's just those issues that I'm having difficulty with. My current rig is also my first water cooled rig, so no doubt I've gone through some rookie mistakes, which involved installing and removing the fittings a number of times, so I have to factor that in as well.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> First Link was for the fans only..now ALL for 99 cents










(and its not a cigar that is being smoked)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm a bit reluctant to say this because I don't like badmouthing companies, but I've had my fair share of problems getting their fittings off. In most cases when I'm trying to remove the fittings from the block, the barb comes loose from the block while I'm trying to unscrew the compression fitting. And as a result, the entire tube, barb, and compression fitting are all twisting at once. Because the tubing is so tight on the barb, and because the compression fitting is tight on the tube, everything twists all at once. I've easily spend 1/4 of the time on this scenario when it came to replacing the tube, or reinstalling it on the block. And because I'm trying so hard to get each piece seperated, I end up scratching myself, or warping the tool. Once I get the entire thing off, I just hold on to the fitting and twist the tubing while holding on to the compression fitting. Admittedly, I've used the side of the tool despite the fact that the round end is designed to screw in the barb. I did this because I was in a restrictive space, or the tool began to hurt my fingers from the effort of screwing it on or off using the rounded end.
> Don't get me wrong, I love the design of the fittings and would obviously buy them again if I'm considering their new carbon fiber fittings. It's just those issues that I'm having difficulty with. My current rig is also my first water cooled rig, so no doubt I've gone through some rookie mistakes, which involved installing and removing the fittings a number of times, so I have to factor that in as well.


Saying that an item is problematical does not amount to bad mouthing a company *if in fact, the product is at fault*-in fact any respectable company worth dealing with would be happy to hear when problems arise


----------



## Bart

Another noob about to build his first loop. Bling bling!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> First Link was for the fans only..now ALL for 99 cents


Ahh now I see







Thanks


----------



## eskamobob1

nice looking res


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Check this out, ALL from TFC for 99 Cents
> http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=ECFuDnk5&searchspec=feser&go.x=0&go.y=0











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Bundy you posted that 12 hours ago...?
> AND they were ALL gone 4 hours later!


Its a new one.

Damn, shipping is pricey though.

Wth?!?!?! Is Feser going out of business too or just another old inventory sale...???


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a new one.
> Damn, shipping is pricey though.
> Wth?!?!?! Is Feser going out of business too or just another old inventory sale...???


Yeah, I bought $10 worth and paid $20 in shipping....wondering if it was still a good deal? LOL


----------



## LiquidHaus

quick snapshot of how my new build "Nazara" sits at the moment.

need a bit more scratch to finish this thing though


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Yeah, I bought $10 worth and paid $20 in shipping....wondering if it was still a good deal? LOL


The shipping more then doubles the sale price but its less then the old price. Still thinking whether or not to get some thing.

I checked ppcs.com and its the same shipping quotes. Still thinking about it.....though gotta act fast.....


----------



## teamrushpntball

Hmm only thing I really want is another silent arrow to mount some more hdds. Have two as it is and love the design, just accidently bought one orange one red. Not terribly sure what I was thinking. But damn 9 bucks shipping on a 1 dollar product


----------



## animal0307

P1'4s on a Magicool 420 rad. It's as big as my keyboard. And the final version of my pump mount in it's home.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a new one.
> Damn, shipping is pricey though.
> Wth?!?!?! Is Feser going out of business too or just another old inventory sale...???


Rumours said, that TFC is one of the main reasons, why Danger Den closed their doors...but that´s another sad story


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Rumours said, that TFC is one of the main reasons, why Danger Den closed their doors...but that´s another sad story


Mind spilling a little more info on these possibilities bundy?


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13560/fan-890/Feser_Triebwerk_V2_TK-123_120mm_x_55mm_High_Speed_Fan_-_2800_RPM.html
> Fans for 99 Cents.....


It has been quite a while, we dont see any pictures from you, ... Your posts with new products were always keeping me updated of whats new








I have read that there is an issue with OCN restrictions of showing new products, but still... could you please give us a link of the place you post these new items now?

Thanks


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Red Tubes Redone!


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> It has been quite a while, we dont see any pictures from you, ... Your posts with new products were always keeping me updated of whats new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have read that there is an issue with OCN restrictions of showing new products, but still... could you please give us a link of the place you post these new items now?
> Thanks


Bundy posts over here as well









http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=839562


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> It has been quite a while, we dont see any pictures from you, ... Your posts with new products were always keeping me updated of whats new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have read that there is an issue with OCN restrictions of showing new products, but still... could you please give us a link of the place you post these new items now?
> Thanks


I think he's also not allowed to give us the link of the site where he is posting them. Stupid OCN rules, do they want us to switch to another community.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So the wrench is a bit weak? Would be more reason to make one from cf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or at least a faux textured applique
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, any fittings that were damaged or over torqued easily? I have a friend who is drooling over them but I want to make sure its not gonna be any issues for him.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a bit reluctant to say this because I don't like badmouthing companies, but I've had my fair share of problems getting their fittings off. In most cases when I'm trying to remove the fittings from the block, the barb comes loose from the block while I'm trying to unscrew the compression fitting. And as a result, the entire tube, barb, and compression fitting are all twisting at once. Because the tubing is so tight on the barb, and because the compression fitting is tight on the tube, everything twists all at once. I've easily spend 1/4 of the time on this scenario when it came to replacing the tube, or reinstalling it on the block. And because I'm trying so hard to get each piece seperated, I end up scratching myself, or warping the tool. Once I get the entire thing off, I just hold on to the fitting and twist the tubing while holding on to the compression fitting. Admittedly, I've used the side of the tool despite the fact that the round end is designed to screw in the barb. I did this because I was in a restrictive space, or the tool began to hurt my fingers from the effort of screwing it on or off using the rounded end.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love the design of the fittings and would obviously buy them again if I'm considering their new carbon fiber fittings. It's just those issues that I'm having difficulty with. My current rig is also my first water cooled rig, so no doubt I've gone through some rookie mistakes, which involved installing and removing the fittings a number of times, so I have to factor that in as well.
Click to expand...

I had this stuff happen when I got my first set of fittings. Really ticked me off when I couldn't get a collar off an had to wrap frog tape around it to get a solid purchase on it to remove it from the barb with a pair of channel-locs. Damned things still bit through the 4 layers of tape and scratched the collar. Still annoying but at least I was able to hide it from regular view. You have to work to see it now. For sure you'd have to use a rubber band to keep them from being dinged and scratched.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Rumours said, that TFC is one of the main reasons, why Danger Den closed their doors...but that´s another sad story
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind spilling a little more info on these possibilities bundy?
Click to expand...

Yeah I'd like to know the skinny on this as well. With the Frozen Sale it could be that they just don't sell alot of Feser product so they're clearing their shelves to make room for someone else's product. When I worked Automotive Counter Parts we did that quite a few times, clearing old dust collectors that don't sell and replaced them with product that Corporate thought would better represent the company. It would not surprise me if that is what Frozen is doing here. My personal opinion on DangerDen is that they became irrelevant in the market that was rapidly changing. I would have bought GPU blocks from them but their prices didn't inspire confidence. Why would I want to spend $99 + shipping for blocks that look like Male genitalia when I could spend just $5 more to get blocks that looked better? $10 for tubing cutter when I could spend $5 more and get a better cutter? The only thing I really coveted of theirs was their D5 Monsoon Reservoirs but even then, somebody had something comparable to it relatively for the same price. In this market you have to change or get left behind. DD hasn't had a true block change in forever imho.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> 
> 
> Red Tubes Redone!












~Ceadder


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I think he's also not allowed to give us the link of the site where he is posting them. Stupid OCN rules, *do they want us to switch to another community*.


I remember 1 year and a half ago, the web site activity was much bigger, always around 2500 members online (with double of guests). Now the numbers are the lowest I've seen on OCN since I joined.


----------



## naikee

Is there any site where I can browse a somewhat organized album/collection of watercooled PCs?
Just asking because I'm wondering what color LEDs, tubing and cold cathodes I will get for my case.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naikee*
> 
> Is there any site where I can browse a somewhat organized album/collection of watercooled PCs?
> Just asking because I'm wondering what color LEDs, tubing and cold cathodes I will get for my case.


This thread is what you are looking for. It is a bit outdated. But maybe it could resurrected.


----------



## NostraD

Went to FCPU and they had 40 TFC shrouds left in stock. I thought hell, I'll sell em on eBay - for 0.99 I can't go wrong. Put em in my cart and went to check out...my cell phone loses its signal. I get busy with work - 30 minutes later try again - All out of stock!!!! Arghhhhh lol - guess that's what I get for waiting.


----------



## kyismaster

Damnit, in about a day or two, Mayhem's UV clear blue fades away!

All that investment into UV for nothing lol.

Can anyone Recommend me some UV tubing then?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Damnit, in about a day or two, Mayhem's UV clear blue fades away!
> All that investment into UV for nothing lol.
> Can anyone Recommend me some UV tubing then?


I would rise the issue with Mayhem, HERE is the official thread.

As for UV tubing, Masterkleer does some awesome looking UV Blue / Clear tubing.


----------



## kyismaster

here it is

can't really see the UV









Light off


Light on




this one is a little more accurate


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> here it is
> can't really see the UV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Light off
> 
> Feel free to share your experience, but I haven't had very good luck with anything but uv ccfl's... Seems like the LED's aren't quite enough to make uv dye pop through tubing.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> here it is
> can't really see the UV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Light off
> 
> 
> 
> Feel free to share your experience, but I haven't had very good luck with anything but uv ccfl's... Seems like the LED's aren't quite enough to make uv dye pop through tubing.
Click to expand...

IRL it shows fine.

the LED's are a semi blinding purple. but thats normal when its bellow the window lip it just looks like a under glow, with the door off, its like northern lights in your face.


----------



## Bart

UV stuff is a ***** to take proper pics of.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> UV stuff is a ***** to take proper pics of.


this LOL

Camera's tend to be like "OH MY GOD IT BURNS MY LENSE, IT BURRRNS"

Its maybe the equivalent of taking a picture of the sun and moon together.


----------



## Bart

This is the best I could do, with a tripod. It might look a bit better if I knew how to operate the damn timer:


----------



## Michalius

Quick cell pic of my build updated with the 140 X-Res.










Now that I've experienced a properly decoupled interior tube Res/pump, I don't think I can go back to a bay Res/pump. It is so quiet.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Havnt posted here in abit so heres some shots of my latest build. More pics in my build log in my sig.





Hope you enjoy


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quick cell pic of my build updated with the 140 X-Res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I've experienced a properly decoupled interior tube Res/pump, I don't think I can go back to a bay Res/pump. It is so quiet.


You got a better pic of how you mounted that. I have the non CSQ 100mm version and made a custom bracket because the one they provided sucks.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Havnt posted here in abit so heres some shots of my latest build. More pics in my build log in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoy


Oh my.. soo purdy


----------



## Lime

New to watercooling here. Look at what I just bought for $50











I think the radiator is just aluminum and the pump/res unit is kind of terrible, but it'll do for a little fun project







I just need to somehow get that missing hard drive bay piece or else I can't mount all my hard drives >.>


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Havnt posted here in abit so heres some shots of my latest build. More pics in my build log in my sig.
> 
> Hope you enjoy
























very clean
really get me thinking to use the thermo fusion thing, does it really help?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quick cell pic of my build updated with the 140 X-Res.
> 
> Now that I've experienced a properly decoupled interior tube Res/pump, I don't think I can go back to a bay Res/pump. It is so quiet.


love it ! any more pictures ?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very clean
> really get me thinking to use the thermo fusion thing, does it really help?
> love it ! any more pictures ?


Dont know if it really makes a difference since Ive never ran it without, but accorinding to the Asrock suite thing, the two sensors on there are always showing 25-30c during prime load. Currently doing a 4.6 test at 1.298v. From what I can tell, it doesnt put any more restriction on a loop than any normal block would.


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Havnt posted here in abit so heres some shots of my latest build. More pics in my build log in my sig.
> 
> Hope you enjoy


nice mod&loops


----------



## iwhocorrupts

Few pics of my latest rig


----------



## NomNomNom

Looks like your computer crashed hahaha


----------



## frank anderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwhocorrupts*
> 
> Few pics of my latest rig


I like the room color and your setup. Is that a BSOD on the monitor?


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> You got a better pic of how you mounted that. I have the non CSQ 100mm version and made a custom bracket because the one they provided sucks.


Do you have the CSQ 100mm for the D5? I am looking at the one for the DDC; however, I need to know how tall it is including the pump if you could tell me this that would be great


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Do you have the CSQ 100mm for the D5? I am looking at the one for the DDC; however, I need to know how tall it is including the pump if you could tell me this that would be great


Mine is the D5 Non CSQ version. It's approximately 7" tall or around 18cm. Hard to measue as it's in my case. Looks like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/33750_50#post_18829936


----------



## protzman

thats a cool ass room and build iwhocorrupts


----------



## iwhocorrupts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frank anderson*
> 
> I like the room color and your setup. Is that a BSOD on the monitor?


Thanks and yes it is lol. I was testing my OC while I was taking pics


----------



## iwhocorrupts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> thats a cool ass room and build iwhocorrupts


Thanks


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Mine is the D5 Non CSQ version. It's approximately 7" tall or around 18cm. Hard to measue as it's in my case. Looks like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/33750_50#post_18829936


Thanks for the reply I will have to look into that and see if it will fit









Oh also how does the fitting configuration work on an EK GTX 670 block? like by the looks of the pictures it only comes out the bottom however with the sli bridge thingy that can change?


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwhocorrupts*
> 
> Few pics of my latest rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LOL BSOD


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Bundy posts over here as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=839562


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I think he's also not allowed to give us the link of the site where he is posting them. Stupid OCN rules, do they want us to switch to another community.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I remember 1 year and a half ago, the web site activity was much bigger, always around 2500 members online (with double of guests). Now the numbers are the lowest I've seen on OCN since I joined.


Guys,

Thanks for the info and the links... I have learned quite a lot of things from OCN forum users and its really sad if such restrictions lead to less posts = less ideas sharing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Welcome to all the new watercoolers and we have hit a milestone! Welcome to 1600th member Sashimi!

No prize tho.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> here it is
> can't really see the UV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Light off
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Light on
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this one is a little more accurate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


just curious what is the coolant/dye you used.?
i was thinking of using clear tubing with Mayhem's pastel white/uv blue
coolant but me thinks i might venture a bit away from that now.


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

Hi









Can i join this club.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Nice idea on the res ^^


----------



## iwhocorrupts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwhocorrupts*
> 
> Few pics of my latest rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


By the way, can I join? I forgot to ask in my original post


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> LOL BSOD


Might be a bsod screensaver, I used one of those when I actually used a screensaver.


----------



## iwhocorrupts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Might be a bsod screensaver, I used one of those when I actually used a screensaver.


Its not, its legit. lol


----------



## Bart

I thought it was part of the theme. Blue PC, blue walls, blue screen, LOL!


----------



## HPE1000

lol I guess the computer is camera shy!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> just curious what is the coolant/dye you used.?
> i was thinking of using clear tubing with Mayhem's pastel white/uv blue
> coolant but me thinks i might venture a bit away from that now.


Mayhem Clear UV blue


----------



## OccultAssassin

Not sure if this is the right place to be asking for loop advice, but here goes.

Here is a block level of what my setup will look like:


Which option would make my loop more efficient at cooling:
Option 1 = RES+PUMP->RAD1->CPU->RAD2->GPU->RAD3
Option 2 = RES+PUMP->RAD3->RAD1->CPU->RAD2->GPU

I've read a lot of conflicting views on the loop setup stating that the sequence doesn't matter as much as the total amount of rads and another that states that sequence matters as well as total rads and that putting a rad before the reservoir will pretty much null the cooling effects from the pump adding heat.

If this is not the place to get advice for this sort of thing could someone direct me where I should be asking about this.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Not sure if this is the right place to be asking for loop advice, but here goes.
> Here is a block level of what my setup will look like:
> 
> Which option would make my loop more efficient at cooling:
> Option 1 = RES+PUMP->RAD1->CPU->RAD2->GPU->RAD3
> Option 2 = RES+PUMP->RAD3->RAD1->CPU->RAD2->GPU
> I've read a lot of conflicting views on the loop setup stating that the sequence doesn't matter as much as the total amount of rads and another that states that sequence matters as well as total rads and that putting a rad before the reservoir will pretty much null the cooling effects from the pump adding heat.
> If this is not the place to get advice for this sort of thing could someone direct me where I should be asking about this.


Loop order has no effect on temps. Just keep the pump after the res and the pump in a low spot if possible. Plumb your loop using as least as possible tube and keeping the runs clean and short to each component.


----------



## Meisseli

Occult: i would go with the first one coz it would yield you better cpu temps and nicer tube routing, but i for temps its just a fraction of a degree that pump will affect on your overall temps, coz wheter that pump was before or after rad or block the overall heat energy to be dissipated from the system will be the same. so the water temps will be almost the same (0.5-1c in difference) and the hw temps will be the same.

Thats because the water needs a lot of energy (one of the greatest energycapasites in a roomtemp fluids.) to be heated a degree per litre so comparing that to the time water is in the pump and to the wattages of pc pumps (20-30w at Full speeds) that pumps wont give up enough energy to heat that water over a degree ---> lets say water is 1c warmer coming to block, cpu heats the block and block water, that with all of its heat transfer resistanses and so on wont result you any differences in lets say core temps that can be measured in a truthful manner...

Hope this helps and someone correct me if I'm wrong but thats what think after 8 years of physics...

Meisseli


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Not sure if this is the right place to be asking for loop advice, but here goes.
> 
> Here is a block level of what my setup will look like:
> 
> 
> Which option would make my loop more efficient at cooling:
> Option 1 = RES+PUMP->RAD1->CPU->RAD2->GPU->RAD3
> Option 2 = RES+PUMP->RAD3->RAD1->CPU->RAD2->GPU
> 
> I've read a lot of conflicting views on the loop setup stating that the sequence doesn't matter as much as the total amount of rads and another that states that sequence matters as well as total rads and that putting a rad before the reservoir will pretty much null the cooling effects from the pump adding heat.
> 
> If this is not the place to get advice for this sort of thing could someone direct me where I should be asking about this.


Loop order makes no significant difference to temps,configure your loop to have the shortest tubing lengths for best flow.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Loop order has no effect on temps. Just keep the pump after the res and the pump in a low spot if possible. Plumb your loop using as least as possible tube and keeping the runs clean and short to each component.


Thanks, that was what I was thinking but just wanted some other opinions to more or less confirm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> Occult: i would go with the first one coz it would yield you better cpu temps and nicer tube routing, but i for temps its just a fraction of a degree that pump will affect on your overall temps, coz wheter that pump was before or after rad or block the overall heat energy to be dissipated from the system will be the same. so the water temps will be almost the same (0.5-1c in difference) and the hw temps will be the same.
> Thats because the water needs a lot of energy (one of the greatest energycapasites in a roomtemp fluids.) to be heated a degree per litre so comparing that to the time water is in the pump and to the wattages of pc pumps (20-30w at Full speeds) that pumps wont give up enough energy to heat that water over a degree ---> lets say water is 1c warmer coming to block, cpu heats the block and block water, that with all of its heat transfer resistanses and so on wont result you any differences in lets say core temps that can be measured in a truthful manner...
> Hope this helps and someone correct me if I'm wrong but thats what think after 8 years of physics...
> Meisseli


Makes sense to me. Thanks!


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop order makes no significant difference to temps,configure your loop to have the shortest tubing lengths for best flow.


Thanks this just reaffirms what others here have been saying and what I was thinking. I am going to stop looking elsewhere for PC modding/sleeving/watercooling advice from other sites and stick to OCN!


----------



## Bart

I'd vote option 1 as well. Sounds like much neater tubing that way.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I'd vote option 1 as well. Sounds like much neater tubing that way.


Ditto.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> You got a better pic of how you mounted that. I have the non CSQ 100mm version and made a custom bracket because the one they provided sucks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Do you have the CSQ 100mm for the D5? I am looking at the one for the DDC; however, I need to know how tall it is including the pump if you could tell me this that would be great


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Mine is the D5 Non CSQ version. It's approximately 7" tall or around 18cm. Hard to measue as it's in my case. Looks like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/33750_50#post_18829936


What he is using is this- an EK Uni holder (i'm 99% sure), funnily enough i have just ordered one-but i wont be using it with a res/top combo, but in fact with a Bitspower mod kit/top-but it should work on your' non crop circle' one









Item to mount D5/res top combo: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/ek-uni-holder-d5.html

This is a picture of it mounted in a rig:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ditto.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hey Ceader, hows the trip going?

Do you have any new fittings ? (thats for the off topic nazis







)


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can i join this club.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Gotta love the FT02. I think your rig looks great.


----------



## kamikaze_




----------



## Bigbrag

I've been done with this build for a little while now, but I figured I would post the final pictures of how it turned out. I switched the tubing to some primoflex advanced lrt which is supposed to not have any plasticizer issues. Also i finally squeezed the reservoir into the build. There was just barely enough room for it, and it was difficult to fill, but it bleed very quickly and I'm happy with the look of it. I had just topped off the res which is why the tube above it didn't have any coolant in it when I took the pictures.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I've been done with this build for a little while now, but I figured I would post the final pictures of how it turned out. I switched the tubing to some primoflex advanced lrt which is supposed to not have any plasticizer issues. Also i finally squeezed the reservoir into the build. There was just barely enough room for it, and it was difficult to fill, but it bleed very quickly and I'm happy with the look of it. I had just topped off the res which is why the tube above it didn't have any coolant in it when I took the pictures.
> *snip*


so much radiator surface area for just the CPU, are you going for 5.0GHz and beyond with that? then again, that motherboard does not look like a hefty overclocker. i could be wrong.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> so much radiator surface area for just the CPU, are you going for 5.0GHz and beyond with that? then again, that motherboard does not look like a hefty overclocker. i could be wrong.


lol my cpu has 2 240 rads. alone


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I've been done with this build for a little while now, but I figured I would post the final pictures of how it turned out. I switched the tubing to some primoflex advanced lrt which is supposed to not have any plasticizer issues. Also i finally squeezed the reservoir into the build. There was just barely enough room for it, and it was difficult to fill, but it bleed very quickly and I'm happy with the look of it. I had just topped off the res which is why the tube above it didn't have any coolant in it when I took the pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bravo on getting that 400mm res in there, looks good.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I've been done with this build for a little while now, but I figured I would post the final pictures of how it turned out. I switched the tubing to some primoflex advanced lrt which is supposed to not have any plasticizer issues. Also i finally squeezed the reservoir into the build. There was just barely enough room for it, and it was difficult to fill, but it bleed very quickly and I'm happy with the look of it. I had just topped off the res which is why the tube above it didn't have any coolant in it when I took the pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow overkill much on the rads? I like it


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I've been done with this build for a little while now, but I figured I would post the final pictures of how it turned out. I switched the tubing to some primoflex advanced lrt which is supposed to not have any plasticizer issues. Also i finally squeezed the reservoir into the build. There was just barely enough room for it, and it was difficult to fill, but it bleed very quickly and I'm happy with the look of it. I had just topped off the res which is why the tube above it didn't have any coolant in it when I took the pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow overkill much on the rads? I like it
Click to expand...

This is OCN there is no such thing as overkill. Besides maybe it's future proofing. I've got a 420 rad for a stock 2500K, for now.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Wow overkill much on the rads? I like it


I was cooling my various CPUs with a pair of XSPC RX480's.


----------



## kyismaster

its all about that 10 x 480 rads for just a 2600k.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> its all about that 10 x 480 rads for just a 2600k.










you would with your ITX board in a mid tower case and 2x 240 rads.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> This is OCN there is no such thing as overkill. Besides maybe it's future proofing. I've got a 420 rad for a stock 2500K, for now.


I know I know I hear that from everyone haha. I'm not hating, I just had to point it out because it looked so out of the ordinary







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I was cooling my various CPUs with a pair of XSPC RX480's.


Geezus


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Wow overkill much on the rads? I like it


Ya. It's a ton of radiator, but I did it because I got such good deals on everything. I only have around $140 into that cooling loop. I was hoping to get a nice overclock. Its a 3570k under all that and a H77 board. I knew H77 was voltage locked but it seems this particular board will only let me go to 38 multi, which according to intel the H77 chip set is supposed to allow any multiplyer on K chips. Or at least that is what I've read. Either way, it still a nice little dead silent rig, and I can probably squeeze it into a tight place with little airflow like the cabinet under my desk without having to worry much about it overheating. I would add the 7770 gpu to the loop but it doesn't look like a good overclocker either, and doesn't make any noise under air so there wouldn't be much gain.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you would with your ITX board in a mid tower case and 2x 240 rads.


: )

Maybe a Full tower soon for a ITX

If I could figure out how to get my dual 240 rads in it.


----------



## Blatsz32

I redid my loop and shortned some hoses and found some white residue. It causing my water to be cloudy. the only additive I used was the Swiftech green stuff. Suggestions?

Thiws is my first foray into WC and rig building. Please be gentle


----------



## NomNomNom

Plasticizer


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I redid my loop and shortned some hoses and found some white residue. It causing my water to be cloudy. the only additive I used was the Swiftech green stuff. Suggestions?
> Thiws is my first foray into WC and rig building. Please be gentle


sounds sorta like plasticizer.

take the extra cut tubing and split it down the middle and show us what it looks like.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Ya. It's a ton of radiator, but I did it because I got such good deals on everything. I only have around $140 into that cooling loop. I was hoping to get a nice overclock. Its a 3570k under all that and a H77 board. I knew H77 was voltage locked but it seems this particular board will only let me go to 38 multi, which according to intel the H77 chip set is supposed to allow any multiplyer on K chips. Or at least that is what I've read. Either way, it still a nice little dead silent rig, and I can probably squeeze it into a tight place with little airflow like the cabinet under my desk without having to worry much about it overheating. I would add the 7770 gpu to the loop but it doesn't look like a good overclocker either, and doesn't make any noise under air so there wouldn't be much gain.


Hey if it ain't broke don't fix it


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Plasticizer


LOL! short & to the point









Who says newer is better-meet the newest member of my collection-mint condition, and not a crop circle in sight


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Hey if *you* ain't broke fix it


FTFY


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> FTFY


Haha I see what you did there


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> : )
> Maybe a Full tower soon for a ITX
> If I could figure out how to get my dual 240 rads in it.


Umm.... if you can't figure out how to get a pair of 240s into a full tower with an ITX board after your recent builds...









Yes I realize you weren't serious.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> : )
> Maybe a Full tower soon for a ITX
> If I could figure out how to get my dual 240 rads in it.


Wonder how many itx boards I could fit in my phantom 820 stretched case build . . . .

Still waiting on the next case to scarf the last chassis parts from, and add the last 40mm or so of stretch.

It'll have an 840 up top and on the bottom from pairs of joined copper finned Airplex modularity 420's

Darlene


----------



## InsideJob

People start mentioning overkill on rads so Diva stops by with her stretched limo build


----------



## teamrushpntball

She's just stopping in to put us all to shame.


----------



## dark7721

hi a bit of a strange question but are the any cases with the motherboard tray on the left and a window on the right side of the case as my pc is on my left on the floor and i want to water cool it and see my work but the window is on the left sid e up agenced the wall







thanks for help if any i look and cant find any case witch are left motherboard tray and right sided windows


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wonder how many itx boards I could fit in my phantom 820 stretched case build . . . .
> Still waiting on the next case to scarf the last chassis parts from, and add the last 40mm or so of stretch.
> It'll have an 840 up top and on the bottom from pairs of joined copper finned Airplex modularity 420's
> Darlene


The phantom train!

CHOOWHOOOO!!

I have started collecting watercooling parts!!!!


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> hi a bit of a strange question but are the any cases with the motherboard tray on the left and a window on the right side of the case as my pc is on my left on the floor and i want to water cool it and see my work but the window is on the left sid e up agenced the wall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for help if any i look and cant find any case witch are left motherboard tray and right sided windows


Do you mean a reverse ATX case?


----------



## MetallicAcid

Which controller can i buy that can control fans and the pump?

Most recommended?


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> hi a bit of a strange question but are the any cases with the motherboard tray on the left and a window on the right side of the case as my pc is on my left on the floor and i want to water cool it and see my work but the window is on the left sid e up agenced the wall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for help if any i look and cant find any case witch are left motherboard tray and right sided windows


Should check out Silverstone cases


----------



## Kerelm

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kerelm/8281014532/
002 by Kerelm, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kerelm/8281014194/
006 by Kerelm, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kerelm/8281014876/
009 by Kerelm, on Flickr

Just got my loop up and running a couple days ago, picked up the new SP120 fans today and fitted them. Next up is 7900 series card and waterblock.

everything currently on stock clocks, will be upping the ghz soon


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Not sure if this is the right place to be asking for loop advice, but here goes.
> Here is a block level of what my setup will look like:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which option would make my loop more efficient at cooling:
> Option 1 = RES+PUMP->RAD1->CPU->RAD2->GPU->RAD3
> Option 2 = RES+PUMP->RAD3->RAD1->CPU->RAD2->GPU
> I've read a lot of conflicting views on the loop setup stating that the sequence doesn't matter as much as the total amount of rads and another that states that sequence matters as well as total rads and that putting a rad before the reservoir will pretty much null the cooling effects from the pump adding heat.
> If this is not the place to get advice for this sort of thing could someone direct me where I should be asking about this.


I suggest that you also plan to place a drain for your loop
somewhere. my first rig i didn't put one in and regret it every since
so in my new build i'm adding a fill port and drain for my loop.
you do not want to start tilting your comp in all directions just
to empty it in case something wrong happens one day and you
need to work on your loop.


----------



## dark7721

ok thanks yes a revers ATX case that the word i was looking for thanks so it realy the TJ11 that im look at then or the RV02 then is that the only company that makes revers ATX cases


----------



## driftingforlife

Depending on how much you can spend look at LittleDevil and Case Labs.


----------



## IT Diva

It's god awfull fugly, but the Azza Genesis 9000 can be assembled either way, and it's comparatively cheap compared to the big guns.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQojz6rGJT8

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Which controller can i buy that can control fans and the pump?
> 
> Most recommended?


FC 5,30w per channel,can handle D5's with ease.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FC 5,30w per channel,can handle D5's with ease.


So i can hook up my new D5 to my FC5 v2 on a separate channel and have no probs of either damaging the pump or the controller?

Im asking not because i doubt your extensive knowledge, but because on another thread i was told that i would be risking damage to the pump









And whilst were on the topic, will i still have to connect the tacho cable to a fan header-im thinking yes, but i just want to be sure .


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FC 5,30w per channel,can handle D5's with ease.
> 
> 
> 
> So i can hook up my new D5 to my FC5 v2 on a separate channel and have no probs of either damaging the pump or the controller?
> 
> Im asking not because i doubt your extensive knowledge, but because on another thread i was told that i would be risking damage to the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And whilst were on the topic, will i still have to connect the tacho cable to a fan header-im thinking yes, but i just want to be sure .
Click to expand...

I had a D5 on a FC5 for over a year with no problems,connect the RPM wire to the 3 pin and you will see the RPM on the front panel so it will be visible when the pump stops or continue using the header,either works for me.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> People start mentioning overkill on rads so Diva stops by with her stretched limo build


Just what i was thinking! LOL
Darlene's radar went off... "Did someone say overkill"?









Darlene, I saw that pic and I instantly went,.."Why"?....Please forgive me. I had a momentary lapse where I forgot where I was and also who I was dealing with. My apologies. Carry on.

I am so ashamed.


----------



## Zamoldac

Ok... so I'm finally up and running (leak testing running atm, wire management will follow) but I have a problem with high GPU temps 43-45C idle and around 80C on load. Does anyone now of the waterblock i've used for the GPU (comes from an CoolIT omni ALC - gtx 480 kit) has specific IN and OUT? (I've attached a picture with the setup I'm currently using it.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> Ok... so I'm finally up and running (leak testing running atm, wire management will follow) but I have a problem with high GPU temps 43-45C idle and around 80C on load. Does anyone now of the waterblock i've used for the GPU (comes from an CoolIT omni ALC - gtx 480 kit) has specific IN and OUT? (I've attached a picture with the setup I'm currently using it.


I'm confused, is that a closed unit or a freaky looking block? From my limited understanding typical gpu blocks doesn't matter which side water enters.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I'm confused, is that a closed unit or a freaky looking block? From my limited understanding typical gpu blocks doesn't matter which side water enters.


It looks like one of the discontinued cool it gpu AIO solutions.


----------



## Zamoldac

The block come from a CoolIT Omni A.L.C. Self-Contained Liquid GPU Cooler but i have it hooked up to a 480mm rad/ with tube reducers using the ports as above (IN/OUT). Will try a re-mount later today but i wanted to double-check the ports setup.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> Ok... so I'm finally up and running (leak testing running atm, wire management will follow) but I have a problem with high GPU temps 43-45C idle and around 80C on load. Does anyone now of the waterblock i've used for the GPU (comes from an CoolIT omni ALC - gtx 480 kit) has specific IN and OUT? (I've attached a picture with the setup I'm currently using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm confused, is that a closed unit or a freaky looking block? *From my limited understanding typical gpu blocks doesn't matter which side water enters.*
Click to expand...

Full covers,yes.
GPU only blocks tend to be directional as many have jet plates,they are only directional with jet plates fitted tho.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> The block come from a CoolIT Omni A.L.C. Self-Contained Liquid GPU Cooler but i have it hooked up to a 480mm rad/ with tube reducers using the ports as above (IN/OUT). Will try a re-mount later today but i wanted to double-check the ports setup.


Are you supplementing with another pump or just using the one built into the system? I would be worried using the stock pump with that big of a rad.


----------



## Zamoldac

I'm using a Laing DDC Pro with a plexi Top (Except the block itself nothing else is used from the kit).


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can i join this club.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Super clean and I like how you mounted the res. Never would have thought to mount it like that. Seeing you're rig makes me miss my old 360 set up.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> LOL! short & to the point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who says newer is better-meet the newest member of my collection-mint condition, and not a crop circle in sight


the best looking block ekwb have made. nice find


----------



## Fonne

*EK-FC660 GTX:*



*EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z*



http://www.ekwb.com/news/296/19/EK-introduces-two-new-water-blocks/


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> Ok... so I'm finally up and running (leak testing running atm, wire management will follow) but I have a problem with high GPU temps 43-45C idle and around 80C on load. Does anyone now of the waterblock i've used for the GPU (comes from an CoolIT omni ALC - gtx 480 kit) has specific IN and OUT? (I've attached a picture with the setup I'm currently using it.


Solved my problem: I was using 1 mm pads on the card which kept the waterblock from making full contact on the gpu (switched to thinner pads and my temps are now 35-38C idle and 47-49C load







@50% fan speed)


----------



## JoeTesla

Hi!
My first 'real' water cooling project..

3770k
8gb /2400 ram
Sabertooth z77
MSI gtx 670
OCZ vertex 4
some old, loud, heavy, clicking & spinning 2TB HDD
650W Rosewill PSU
--
MCP-35X
XSPC 360 x-flow rad
Magicool 280 rad
XSPC raystorm cpu block
EK-670 gpu block
3x Corsair sp120
2x Spectre Pro 140
1x noiseblocker e-loop 120
a bunch of fittings and hose

all stuck in a Corsair 500R:





A couple of questions I have after having this thing running for 2-3 days...

1. Should I keep the res totally closed, or leave the top port a little open so that air can bleed out..?
2. I know I don't have the best 3770k in the world.. I need 1.37V to run it on 4.7GHZ, and it gets HOT, even with WC.. it's running on the low 70's under load.. I was kinda expecting to get it cooler with water..
3. Any other MCP-35X users experiencing loud 'buzz' when it runs on 70%-100% ?

The GPU cooling is really impressive.. it's OC'd to 1300 on the core and 3550 on the ram on 1.2V (unlocked bios) and it doesn't go over 40c


----------



## teamrushpntball

Keep the res closed, the air will eventually just collect at the top of it. Yes, my mcp35x is load under load but it does not buzz per say.

Also it is possible you had a poor mount on your cpu block. Or just terrible terrible luck.


----------



## JoeTesla

Yeah I thought I might have a bad mount.. (I was actually certain I forgot to remove the plastic cover from the cpu block after seeing the temps, lol) so I took it off and re-did the mount & paste.. no luck.

Thanks for the reply


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> You got a better pic of how you mounted that. I have the non CSQ 100mm version and made a custom bracket because the one they provided sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Do you have the CSQ 100mm for the D5? I am looking at the one for the DDC; however, I need to know how tall it is including the pump if you could tell me this that would be great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Mine is the D5 Non CSQ version. It's approximately 7" tall or around 18cm. Hard to measue as it's in my case. Looks like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/33750_50#post_18829936
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What he is using is this- an EK Uni holder (i'm 99% sure), funnily enough i have just ordered one-but i wont be using it with a res/top combo, but in fact with a Bitspower mod kit/top-but it should work on your' non crop circle' one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Item to mount D5/res top combo: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/ek-uni-holder-d5.html
> 
> This is a picture of it mounted in a rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ditto.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey Ceader, hows the trip going?
> 
> Do you have any new fittings ? (thats for the off topic nazis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Going pretty well. Girlfriend just got a new job so I may be here longer'n I thot. Hope to get something going soon, but I have been here less than 2 weeks. Hope to get something that allows me to do what I like doing. Still getting acclimated to the area though. No new fittings besides the new Monsoons I got the day b4 I left. Was waiting on something else but it wasn't there when I left. I'll try to get my bro to open the package and take some pics with his cellphone and send them to me. For the most part though the trip is going well.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Plasticizer
> 
> 
> 
> LOL! short & to the point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who says newer is better-meet the newest member of my collection-mint condition, and not a crop circle in sight
Click to expand...

v1 is still my Favorite HF Supreme. Especially with the advent of the Supremacy Crop Circle design.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> : )
> Maybe a Full tower soon for a ITX
> If I could figure out how to get my dual 240 rads in it.
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder how many itx boards I could fit in my phantom 820 stretched case build . . . .
> 
> Still waiting on the next case to scarf the last chassis parts from, and add the last 40mm or so of stretch.
> 
> It'll have an 840 up top and on the bottom from pairs of joined copper finned Airplex modularity 420's
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Just needs a prom couple hanging off he back of that case holding Champagne bottles with straws in them.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> She's just stopping in to put us all to shame.


And validating my Mod at the same time. If an when I ever get started on the structural part of it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's god awfull fugly, but the Azza Genesis 9000 can be assembled either way, and it's comparatively cheap compared to the big guns.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQojz6rGJT8
> 
> Darlene


"Beauty is in the eye if the beholder" said no TJ owner ever.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> People start mentioning overkill on rads so Diva stops by with her stretched limo build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just what i was thinking! LOL
> Darlene's radar went off... "Did someone say overkill"?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene, I saw that pic and I instantly went,.."Why"?....Please forgive me. I had a momentary lapse where I forgot where I was and also who I was dealing with. My apologies. Carry on.
> 
> I am so ashamed.
Click to expand...

As well you should be Mate.







j/k lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> LOL! short & to the point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who says newer is better-meet the newest member of my collection-mint condition, and not a crop circle in sight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the best looking block ekwb have made. nice find
Click to expand...

v1 and v2 look awesomesauce. v1 is a helluva performer.

~Ceadder


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoeTesla*
> 
> Hi!
> My first 'real' water cooling project..
> 3770k
> 8gb /2400 ram
> Sabertooth z77
> MSI gtx 670
> OCZ vertex 4
> some old, loud, heavy, clicking & spinning 2TB HDD
> 650W Rosewill PSU
> --
> MCP-35X
> XSPC 360 x-flow rad
> Magicool 280 rad
> XSPC raystorm cpu block
> EK-670 gpu block
> 3x Corsair sp120
> 2x Spectre Pro 140
> 1x noiseblocker e-loop 120
> a bunch of fittings and hose
> all stuck in a Corsair 500R:
> 
> A couple of questions I have after having this thing running for 2-3 days...
> 1. Should I keep the res totally closed, or leave the top port a little open so that air can bleed out..?
> 2. I know I don't have the best 3770k in the world.. I need 1.37V to run it on 4.7GHZ, and it gets HOT, even with WC.. it's running on the low 70's under load.. I was kinda expecting to get it cooler with water..
> 3. Any other MCP-35X users experiencing loud 'buzz' when it runs on 70%-100% ?
> The GPU cooling is really impressive.. it's OC'd to 1300 on the core and 3550 on the ram on 1.2V (unlocked bios) and it doesn't go over 40c


You can check for help about lowering your cpu temps.







Because 70C under WC is kinda high.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/0_100


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wonder how many itx boards I could fit in my phantom 820 stretched case build . . . .
> Still waiting on the next case to scarf the last chassis parts from, and add the last 40mm or so of stretch.
> It'll have an 840 up top and on the bottom from pairs of joined copper finned Airplex modularity 420's
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Marry me?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> You can check for help about lowering your cpu temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because 70C under WC is kinda high.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/0_100


Don't poke a bear without knowing how to poke it yet







, Loooots of mess up deliddings and destroyed chips out there.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Don't poke a bear without knowing how to poke it yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Loooots of mess up deliddings and destroyed chips out there.


lol... i love how well this pits with my post in your build log







... and ust a heads up... if you see smoke coming out from under you CPU block, you should probably turn your comp off


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> lol... i love how well this pits with my post in your build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and ust a heads up... if you see smoke coming out from under you CPU block, you should probably turn your comp off


I try bob, i try.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Don't poke a bear without knowing how to poke it yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Loooots of mess up deliddings and destroyed chips out there.


Of course there are.... Some ppl were using hammer to do that.... Crazy people.. Others were using normal knifes.. lol


----------



## kkorky

Ok, i think i know quite about our hobby-but what the hell are deliddings?


----------



## NostraD

Delidding = pulling the back cover off the CPU so that you get face-to-face with the copper contact.










and I believe this is a really old CPU - not quite so simple now days.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1292708/delidding-an-opteron-direct-on-die-hyper-212s/10
Post #13 has a good pic too.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Ok, i think i know quite about our hobby-but what the hell are deliddings?


This. Removing the IHS on a CPU.


----------



## Bart

As an older nerd, that fried my brain a little the first time I saw it. Here I thought people who LAPPED CPUs were crazy. This is crazy squared!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> As an older nerd, that fried my brain a little the first time I saw it. Here I thought people who LAPPED CPUs were crazy. This is crazy squared!


lol im half your age and it still freaks me out a bit.

girlfriend is getting me a 3770k for xmas. not sure whether i should risk delidding since im not paying for it.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Delidding = pulling the back cover off the CPU so that you get face-to-face with the copper contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I believe this is a really old CPU - not quite so simple now days.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1292708/delidding-an-opteron-direct-on-die-hyper-212s/10
> Post #13 has a good pic too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> This. Removing the IHS on a CPU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> As an older nerd, that fried my brain a little the first time I saw it. Here I thought people who LAPPED CPUs were crazy. This is crazy squared!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> lol im half your age and it still freaks me out a bit.
> girlfriend is getting me a 3770k for xmas. not sure whether i should risk delidding since im not paying for it.


Lol! ok, so thats what it's called. Ofc i know about lapping a cpu contact area, and about the removal of an IHS(much harder to do nowadays apparently), but i wasn't up to scratch on the terminology-thanks for the 'lesson'


----------



## animal0307

I did it to a P4. The process isn't hard. It's a matter of taking your time and not forcing it. I had a Q6600 but I couldn't bring myself to do it to it. I don't think I could handle risking $200 for better temps. If I got one for absolutely free with a guarantee of a replacement if I messed up I'd do it.


----------



## jdangond

Redone loop for easier draining.


----------



## socketus

oooh ! that set of qdcs works for me with the black bitspower , noice ! Nice tite build all round, luv the tj08


----------



## TeamBlue

ay. question. anyone running the phobya 1080? There's one that is tempting me at fcpu, someone tell me why I shouldn't get it before my wife kills me lol.


----------



## JoeTesla

Quote:


> Don't poke a bear without knowing how to poke it yet , Loooots of mess up deliddings and destroyed chips out there.


The bear has already been poked..

I went that route with my first 3770k ( which was a MUCH better chip than my current one). It died.

I removed the lid being as careful as I can be, took my time, with an extra sharp and thin blade, went mm by mm.. the lid eventually came off the chip, everything seemed to be going well...

cleaned up the chip using my TIM remover, put some new TIM on, and.. nothing. CPU was dead. gone. there were no cracks, pops, no signs of forced action anywhere near the chip/PCB.. and still the thing died.

So I got a new one that doesn't perform as well as the old one (takes more volts to reach a lower ceiling) and i'm not doing it again.


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Super clean and I like how you mounted the res. Never would have thought to mount it like that. Seeing you're rig makes me miss my old 360 set up.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


thanks.. iv had the build for about a yr but i recently rebuilt it.

that's a nice build. I originally wanted a 480 rad at the bottom but it was too much effort.

I might try run the tubing behind the rad like yours next time. at the moment im running it behind the case.

my mcp655 pump seems to be running louder after the rebuild. it's got a whining noise.

i'm certain all the air bubbles are out.. iv tipped it in every direction, blown in the tubes etc. should i just let it run for a while and see if it quietens down?


----------



## JoeTesla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Of course there are.... Some ppl were using hammer to do that.... Crazy people.. Others were using normal knifes.. lol


While we're on the subject.. any tips for my high CPU temps.. ? (removing the lid again is really a last resort.. i'm now officially scared of these chips)

I have to agree, ~70 on water seems very high.
My ivy needs 1.37V to run on 4.7Ghz, at 70c under load.. any higher than that the voltages are absurd and the temps are obnoxious.

I don't think my loop has issues since I have a gtx 670 with an unlocked bios, running 1.2v with quite a substantial OC and it doesn't go over 40c under continous stress. with the pump on ~30%...

I re-mounted my cpu block (Raystorm) twice, the temps don't change at all. I'm using Prolimatech pk-3 as TIM.

Thanks for the help


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoeTesla*
> 
> While we're on the subject.. any tips for my high CPU temps.. ? (removing the lid again is really a last resort.. i'm now officially scared of these chips)
> I have to agree, ~70 on water seems very high.
> My ivy needs 1.37V to run on 4.7Ghz, at 70c under load.. any higher than that the voltages are absurd and the temps are obnoxious.
> I don't think my loop has issues since I have a gtx 670 with an unlocked bios, running 1.2v with quite a substantial OC and it doesn't go over 40c under continous stress. with the pump on ~30%...
> I re-mounted my cpu block (Raystorm) twice, the temps don't change at all. I'm using Prolimatech pk-3 as TIM.
> Thanks for the help


you could try lapping the cpu.

and im intrigued as to your experience with pk-3. i have used the same tim but on my 7970. ended up switching to mx2 when i decided to use tim on the vrms and it ended up running much cooler than the pk-3. the reason i got the pk-3 was because it was the best performer at the time, and mx2 is quite old nowadays. but it seems to do better.

your guys' temps on 3770ks is scaring me lol 70c at 4.7? my 8350 is at 5.2 with 1.52 volts and it peaks temps at ~60c

and im also snagging a 3770k as well so im very confused as to the oc'd temp ranges.

edit: 800th post woo lol


----------



## Bart

MX-2 is excellent stuff. I've been swearing by that for years.







Still good to this day.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> MX-2 is excellent stuff. I've been swearing by that for years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still good to this day.


mx 4 is just as good.


----------



## Bart

I always wondered why MX-4 never got much hype. Apparently MX-2 was so good it was a tough act to follow up.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I always wondered why MX-4 never got much hype. Apparently MX-2 was so good it was a tough act to follow up.


MX-2 was cheap, super cheap, was selling for a few dollar a tube a few months back . LOL.

gotta love the bay. e-bay.

and the difference between the two is only like 1-2c


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> lol im half your age and it still freaks me out a bit.
> girlfriend is getting me a 3770k for xmas. not sure whether i should risk delidding since im not paying for it.


Is there THAT much to be gained by it? I mean most anyone underwater can already OC to pretty decent limits. I thought water coolers were usually limited by chips / mobos before temperature.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I did it to a P4. The process isn't hard. It's a matter of taking your time and not forcing it. I had a Q6600 but I couldn't bring myself to do it to it. I don't think I could handle risking $200 for better temps. If I got one for absolutely free with a guarantee of a replacement if I messed up I'd do it.


I lapped a nice i7 920 to a perfect mirror shine. It never worked right again. I mailed it to deafboy and bought another one. First, and LAST, lapping attempt!







Screwed up a T.R.U.E. that way too.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I always wondered why MX-4 never got much hype. Apparently MX-2 was so good it was a tough act to follow up.


MX3 > MX4 in terms of temps (but like 0.05'c difference really), but MX4 is more malleable.

I really like MX4 for an all-round TIM, GPU / CPU / etc.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> MX3 > MX4 in terms of temps (but like 0.05'c difference really), but MX4 is more malleable.
> I really like MX4 for an all-round TIM, GPU / CPU / etc.


luls, it works for so many things, Glob it all over my xbox 360, to my gpu's to my cpu's Mmm.

No cure times is a + over my previous AS5


----------



## Bart

Personally, I can't WAIT to try this stuff. I'd have it installed tonight if my order hadn't been messed up (got barbs instead of compression fittings, DOH!):


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Personally, I can't WAIT to try this stuff. I'd have it installed tonight if my order hadn't been messed up (got barbs instead of compression fittings, DOH!):


really dont like it, you have to bond your CPU and CPU cooler.... and its messy and doesnt always work... eugh. No thanks.

Also risky, have to run the CPU really hot to bond it... temps that AMD CPUs cant do.


----------



## Bart

The scary install is half the fun.







The bond isn't permanent, you can remove it. Plus if it works, it's a perfect application. No worries about paste install methods, etc. You do need to run the CPU hot as hell for sure, and for about 15 minutes. Sounds nuts, but 15 minutes is just a decent burn in.







Hopefully it'll warm the CPU up for OCing. It won't ruin your block. Errrr, I hope! Oh well, I'll find out as soon as I get some proper fittings! I'll guinea pig it on my Raystorm block.


----------



## JoeTesla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> you could try lapping the cpu.
> and im intrigued as to your experience with pk-3. i have used the same tim but on my 7970. ended up switching to mx2 when i decided to use tim on the vrms and it ended up running much cooler than the pk-3. the reason i got the pk-3 was because it was the best performer at the time, and mx2 is quite old nowadays. but it seems to do better.
> your guys' temps on 3770ks is scaring me lol 70c at 4.7? my 8350 is at 5.2 with 1.52 volts and it peaks temps at ~60c
> and im also snagging a 3770k as well so im very confused as to the oc'd temp ranges.
> edit: 800th post woo lol


Haven't tried anything but the pk-3 yet.. thought about getting the indigo extreme with my WC parts order but it didn't make it through the final cart screening (wife was over my shoulder!)
anyways, I doubt thermal paste would fix my issue.. I mean the difference between a medium performer and the best is what ? 5c at best ? I don't see it changing matters.

De-lidding.. some people reported 20+ degrees difference, most over 10-12. But i'm scared.. especially after my first attempt murdered my chip.
so even though I uhm.. got away with it, I don't wanna try it again.

and about lapping (polishing the metal to a perfectly flat surface, I gather ?) still voids the warranty and not as effective even if done perfectly, so I don't see that happening either.

Those chips are crazy. at 4.5ghz, mine needs under 1.285v to be stable. 4.7ghz = 1.36-1.37v. The temp difference between the 2 is 20c on my rig. Makes no sense to me but what do I know...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Is there THAT much to be gained by it? I mean most anyone underwater can already OC to pretty decent limits. I thought water coolers were usually limited by chips / mobos before temperature.
> I lapped a nice i7 920 to a perfect mirror shine. It never worked right again. I mailed it to deafboy and bought another one. First, and LAST, lapping attempt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Screwed up a T.R.U.E. that way too.


jeeeez im plenty sure of myself modifying things but my confidence is going down even further when i hear things like that lol i think i'll leave my 3770k alone unless for some reason im getting terrible temps. i shouldnt, not with a 480 rad and a 240 rad lol then again i'll be running blocks on everything i can.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> MX3 > MX4 in terms of temps (but like 0.05'c difference really), but MX4 is more malleable.
> I really like MX4 for an all-round TIM, GPU / CPU / etc.


lol i have never even tried mx3 or mx4. mx2 has worked so well for me i didnt see the reason behind trying them haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> The scary install is half the fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bond isn't permanent, you can remove it. Plus if it works, it's a perfect application. No worries about paste install methods, etc. You do need to run the CPU hot as hell for sure, and for about 15 minutes. Sounds nuts, but 15 minutes is just a decent burn in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it'll warm the CPU up for OCing. It won't ruin your block. Errrr, I hope! Oh well, I'll find out as soon as I get some proper fittings! I'll guinea pig it on my Raystorm block.


i've always been intrigued by that tim and the method used to set it up. you'll have to let me know how it goes. hurry up and get those compressions!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> jeeeez im plenty sure of myself modifying things but my confidence is going down even further when i hear things like that lol i think i'll leave my 3770k alone unless for some reason im getting terrible temps.


I'm sure your temps will be fine... plus that's only part of the equation - most of it depends on whether or not your OC is severely voltage limited or if it's simply temperature. If it's the later then you can simply add more rad to the loop and overcome it.







If you're going to require a ton of voltage for your chip in order to get to the level you require, or if the core-to-core temps are way off (mine differ by more than 14C during loading) you have a much better chance of getting a good OC by delidding because - most likely - the internal TIM is uneven or the IHS is not making good contact across the entire die.

My overclock is mostly limited by this difference as at 4.7GHz my hottest core is approaching 85C even though the others are all around 70C. The package temps are well managed by the WC loop... but nothing will help that hot core because (I presume) it's not getting enough of it's heat out to the IHS surface to be cooled by the loop. Just like everything else it varies.. and 3770K's seem to do better overall than 3570K's when it comes to OC potential (they're usually hotter slightly, but have more voltage headroom it seems).


----------



## wermad

Clicky


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> Clicky


I'm trying to think of a reason to block the inlet for the photo shoot


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> lol im half your age and it still freaks me out a bit.
> girlfriend is getting me a 3770k for xmas. not sure whether i should risk delidding since im not paying for it.


Check out the last couple pages of "Custom PC Magazine Dec 2012"
they show you step by step how to delid /remove the ivy bridges
thermal p and replace it with your own..def. worth checkin out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> MX-2 is excellent stuff. I've been swearing by that for years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still good to this day.


G751 and MX-4 are better.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darren9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> Clicky
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to think of a reason to block the inlet for the photo shoot
Click to expand...

Yeah was thinkin the same thing. lol

~Ceadder


----------



## NewHighScore

I used mX-4 for about a year straight and recently switched to MX2. I like the texture of the MX2 better then the mX4.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Is there THAT much to be gained by it? I mean most anyone underwater can already OC to pretty decent limits. I thought water coolers were usually limited by chips / mobos before temperature.
> I lapped a nice i7 920 to a perfect mirror shine. It never worked right again. I mailed it to deafboy and bought another one. First, and LAST, lapping attempt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Screwed up a T.R.U.E. that way too.


Well. On my 3570k i got 25c drop in max temp under load, and i'm on air. But that with Coollaboratory Liquid Pro on die... Just the best tim out there.


----------



## NewHighScore

After xmas after I recover financially a bit I may risk delidding my 3770k







Really wanting to try with the cool laboratory liquid pro.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> After xmas after I recover financially a bit I may risk delidding my 3770k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really wanting to try with the cool laboratory liquid pro.


So would you be able to put your CPU block to the chip without the lid or would you replace the TIM and put the lid ack on it. I lapp my CPUs' but have never attempted a delidding so I'm n00b about the specifics.









~Ceadder


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So would you be able to put your CPU block to the chip without the lid or would you replace the TIM and put the lid ack on it. I lapp my CPUs' but have never attempted a delidding so I'm n00b about the specifics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You can do either, some people put the lid back on, some dont.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So would you be able to put your CPU block to the chip without the lid or would you replace the TIM and put the lid ack on it. I lapp my CPUs' but have never attempted a delidding so I'm n00b about the specifics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes, you can put the block on the bare die, but you still need the tim and also, some washers cuz the difference of space with no IHS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> You can do either, some people put the lid back on, some dont.


I did put the lid back on and still got 27C drop in temps under load.. That's huge diference, also, the temp difference on cores is 7c max now...


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Is there THAT much to be gained by it? I mean most anyone underwater can already OC to pretty decent limits. I thought water coolers were usually limited by chips / mobos before temperature.
> I lapped a nice i7 920 to a perfect mirror shine. It never worked right again. I mailed it to deafboy and bought another one. First, and LAST, lapping attempt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Screwed up a T.R.U.E. that way too.


Part of the reason that coolers and CPU IHS's are bowed is because they flex when heated. The idea is to create a bow that flexes to a flat surface at load temps. When you lap it, you actually run the risk of it bowing inward under high temps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ah okay kewl guys. Do you need washers if there are no vrm on the die? Of course I won't know if the Thubie has vrm or not since I've not even attempted it.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Fonne

*EKWB rolls out it's first CAD/CAM/HPC graphics card water block*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/297/19/EKWB-rolls-out-it-s-first-CAD-CAM-HPC-graphics-card-water-block/
Quote:


> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear provider, officially introduces the EK-FCQ6000, their debut CAD/CAM/HPC graphics card full-cover water block for nVidia Quadro 6000- & 5000 series professional graphics card as well as Tesla C20xx & M20xx computing cards. Complete compatibility list can be found on Cooling Configurator.




Not only is it very slim, but *NO CIRCLE*







(Hope its a final design)


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ah okay kewl guys. Do you need washers if there are no vrm on the die? Of course I won't know if the Thubie has vrm or not since I've not even attempted it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


WAIT are you trying to delid your 1100t? That is not possible afaik, ivy bridge can be delid, sandy cannot. Thuban cannot either...

This is not a thing you do on any chip, ivy bridge is not soldered to the IHS like sandy bridge was, I believe it was so it would not run head to head with lga2011 processors when you overclocked it, that is my opinion on why they did it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB rolls out it's first CAD/CAM/HPC graphics card water block*
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/297/19/EKWB-rolls-out-it-s-first-CAD-CAM-HPC-graphics-card-water-block/
> 
> Not only is it very slim, but *NO CIRCLE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Hope its a final design)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB rolls out it's first CAD/CAM/HPC graphics card water block*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/297/19/EKWB-rolls-out-it-s-first-CAD-CAM-HPC-graphics-card-water-block/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear provider, officially introduces the EK-FCQ6000, their debut CAD/CAM/HPC graphics card full-cover water block for nVidia Quadro 6000- & 5000 series professional graphics card as well as Tesla C20xx & M20xx computing cards. Complete compatibility list can be found on Cooling Configurator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not only is it very slim, but *NO CIRCLE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Hope its a final design)
Click to expand...

Its for Quadro/Tesla cards,not GeForce,its for workstations...they dont care about looks in that market.

Dont expect this to be rolled out for enthusiast blocks.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its for Quadro/Tesla cards,not GeForce,its for workstations...*they dont care about looks in that market*.
> Dont expect this to be rolled out for enthusiast blocks.


And still they are getting something that looks better, than what EK sells to us that care


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So would you be able to put your CPU block to the chip without the lid or would you replace the TIM and put the lid ack on it. I lapp my CPUs' but have never attempted a delidding so I'm n00b about the specifics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> You can do either, some people put the lid back on, some dont.


If I do attempt it I will put the lid back on in fear of cracking the corner of the die.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its for Quadro/Tesla cards,not GeForce,its for workstations...*they dont care about looks in that market*.
> Dont expect this to be rolled out for enthusiast blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> And still they are getting something that looks better, than what EK sells to us that care
Click to expand...

This.








A flat block like that, paint it, and win.


----------



## wermad

Very reminiscent of Aquacomputer blocks


----------



## Alfaa

Hey guys, not really the right place to ask here but here goes:

I recently acquired some old waterblocks and stuff from a friend. As far as I know, they are completely new (they still have their plastic on the bottom) and have all the mounting hardware. I, personally, wouldn't have a use for them because I don't like that size tubing and I doubt it would fit anything from today. Anyway, the question is:

Do you think anyone would be able to use this stuff?

I'll put it up as a freebee, but I'm afraid nobody would be able to do anything with it. Anyway thanks.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Hey guys, not really the right place to ask here but here goes:
> I recently acquired some old waterblocks and stuff from a friend. As far as I know, they are completely new (they still have their plastic on the bottom) and have all the mounting hardware. I, personally, wouldn't have a use for them because I don't like that size tubing and I doubt it would fit anything from today. Anyway, the question is:
> Do you think anyone would be able to use this stuff?
> I'll put it up as a freebee, but I'm afraid nobody would be able to do anything with it. Anyway thanks.


i know one person if its 775 lol


----------



## Zyrael

Got the H100 in my new rig. Hopefully that qualifies me.











And with lighting:


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrael*
> 
> Got the H100 in my new rig. Hopefully that qualifies me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with lighting:


how do you like the board?


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i know one person if its 775 lol


Nope, I don't think it is. The manual mentions socket 478, 370 and of course AMD.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Nope, I don't think it is. The manual mentions socket 478, 370 and of course AMD.


Mmm so ancient, don't think i'll ever get that board running again, and not worth it to put it under water lol, already got it maxed out


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB rolls out it's first CAD/CAM/HPC graphics card water block*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/297/19/EKWB-rolls-out-it-s-first-CAD-CAM-HPC-graphics-card-water-block/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear provider, officially introduces the EK-FCQ6000, their debut CAD/CAM/HPC graphics card full-cover water block for nVidia Quadro 6000- & 5000 series professional graphics card as well as Tesla C20xx & M20xx computing cards. Complete compatibility list can be found on Cooling Configurator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not only is it very slim, but *NO CIRCLE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Hope its a final design)
Click to expand...

I would buy this if they made it available for my GPU. They already have blocks(retired) for 6870 so it shouldn't be that difficult. Obviously there would have to be a set number of requests to make a run but I could live with a block like this in my system. Even with the medallion in the corner of the block.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ah okay kewl guys. Do you need washers if there are no vrm on the die? Of course I won't know if the Thubie has vrm or not since I've not even attempted it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WAIT are you trying to delid your 1100t? That is not possible afaik, ivy bridge can be delid, sandy cannot. Thuban cannot either...
> 
> This is not a thing you do on any chip, ivy bridge is not soldered to the IHS like sandy bridge was, I believe it was so it would not run head to head with lga2011 processors when you overclocked it, that is my opinion on why they did it.
Click to expand...

No no, I'm not going to try it with Thubbie. I'm just sayin that I'm not sure if there are vrm on the Phenom die and Thubbie being my current CPU, I was spit balling. I would think that so long as there is a cover on an AMD CPU that it should be able to be removed. Shouldn't it? Obviously I don't intend to try it with a $200 chip, but I may still try it with an earlier Phenom II.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very reminiscent of Aquacomputer blocks


Ditto. I was thinking the other day that it would not only be nice to have something like that available, but also it would be nice if EK were to make blocks to fit earlier Cards that they already made blocks for. Based on request though. Per card request is impractical but if EK were to compile requests and run a limited production minimum, it coould be beneficial for their bottom line.

~Ceadder


----------



## Mrxxxxxxxxxx17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> This. Removing the IHS on a CPU.


i destryed my phenom 9950 trying this D:


----------



## Zyrael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> how do you like the board?


Oh I love it. Booted first time and every time. The bios is excellent. The fans built into the thermal armor are actually quite quiet despite my concerns (tho they could be removed).

I was initially concerned that having only 8 phases would limit the OC potential of the board compared to the Asus Z77 deluxe. But I was mistaken. Very first attempt I hit 4.4 on my 3770K with only 1.2v and is stable enough to run 48 hours uninterrupted.

Cooling is also a dream, I stay at or below room temperatures with my fans at low settings while at load.

The Sabertooth is part of the whole here and I love all my components, but MUCH cred to Asus. Also Newegg had an openbox deal on it for 170 dollars. It's missing a couple USB 2.0 header caps (which I have been trying to replace but can't get any communication going with Asus), but it's clear the board was never used, only removed from it's box.

If you are considering the Z77 Sabertooth, it gets two MAJOR thumbs up for me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very reminiscent of Aquacomputer blocks


More like those komodo blocks that swiftech did/do....

Nice block,shame we aint getting it....


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I'm sure your temps will be fine... plus that's only part of the equation - most of it depends on whether or not your OC is severely voltage limited or if it's simply temperature. If it's the later then you can simply add more rad to the loop and overcome it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're going to require a ton of voltage for your chip in order to get to the level you require, or if the core-to-core temps are way off (mine differ by more than 14C during loading) you have a much better chance of getting a good OC by delidding because - most likely - the internal TIM is uneven or the IHS is not making good contact across the entire die.
> My overclock is mostly limited by this difference as at 4.7GHz my hottest core is approaching 85C even though the others are all around 70C. The package temps are well managed by the WC loop... but nothing will help that hot core because (I presume) it's not getting enough of it's heat out to the IHS surface to be cooled by the loop. Just like everything else it varies.. and 3770K's seem to do better overall than 3570K's when it comes to OC potential (they're usually hotter slightly, but have more voltage headroom it seems).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Check out the last couple pages of "Custom PC Magazine Dec 2012"
> they show you step by step how to delid /remove the ivy bridges
> thermal p and replace it with your own..def. worth checkin out.


i'll grab that magazine and read up as well as the intel forum about delidding. i am still nervous because it's not my money if i ruin it lol it's my girlfriends. but the pros to doing this seem really great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I used mX-4 for about a year straight and recently switched to MX2. I like the texture of the MX2 better then the mX4.


the texture on mx2 is great. best i've ever messed with. you could call me an mx2 fan boy lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> You can do either, some people put the lid back on, some dont.


if i do it, i wont bother putting the IHS back on. it'd be waterblock straight on the die. very intrigued about having to use spacers however. i figure one washer should do it, correct? i doubt the IHS is very thick..


----------



## airs

STH10 is finally coming together. Currently trying to figure out tubing direction/order.

3770k
Asus Maximus V Ext
Asus GTX 690
Seasonic Platinum 1000w
Koolance 380 and 690 blocks
Alphacool rads - three 4x120mm, one 3x120mm
Gentle Typhoon AP15 fans
Bitspower fittings and res
Swiftech MCP35x2
Aquaero 5
MDPC sleeving


----------



## vaporizer

That's a lot of fans. I love it.


----------



## NostraD

@ Airs:
Like parking a Volkswagen in a airplane hanger....lol


----------



## Bart

I'd want to stick some turbocharged high end server fans in that thing and see if I could make it do doughnuts! Lock the front wheels and crank it up! LOL!


----------



## airs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> @ Airs:
> Like parking a Volkswagen in a airplane hanger....lol


Hah! Yeah, and that's an extended ATX board.


----------



## kyismaster

anyone got some of this under UV?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36320


----------



## NomNomNom

Anyone know how these are on a 20fpi rad?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=23747


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> anyone got some of this under UV?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36320


kinda regretting buying the clear, maybe i should of waited for the colored uv tubes to arrive..


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Anyone know how these are on a 20fpi rad?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=23747


Absolutely fantastic! Seriously, those are some of my ALL-TIME favorite fans, especially for the price! The specs are not over-stated, if anything they are quieter than spec'd but they absolutely push a ton of air, enough that I can't tell the difference between the Koolance and a 3800rpm Delta with both blowing through an XSPC EX-series rad (19 split-fins-per-inch). I think you'll be very satisfied, although you can always go push-pull, or if space is an issue go push-pull with the 120x25mm ones and give up VERY LITTLE in the way of performance.

Also, the dual-ball-bearing motor is surprisingly quiet at any orientation, and they undervolt very well; at about 80% speed they are no louder than anything else in my case but still move monstrous amounts of air.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Anyone know how these are on a 20fpi rad?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=23747


I use to own several of them about 3 years ago when I had a HWLabs Black Ice GTX 360. Did a phenomenal job over the Yate Loons I had before. The only downside is that they didn't undervolt very well (clicked) and were loud at full load.

EDIT: It may have been the fan controller I was using.


----------



## NomNomNom

Wow i'm surprised nobody else mentions them in reviews, they're only 9 bucks and they're that good. Ill be using them with a 480 swiftech extreme rad with a nzxt sentry or sunbean rheobus as a fan controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> I use to own several of them about 3 years ago when I had a HWLabs Black Ice GTX 360. Did a phenomenal job over the Yate Loons I had before. The only downside is that they didn't undervolt very well (clicked) and were loud at full load.
> EDIT: It may have been the fan controller I was using.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Anyone interested in trading anything for my brand new mayhams pink UV dye.. maybe a different color dye or leds? lol


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Anyone interested in trading anything for my brand new mayhams pink UV dye.. maybe a different color dye or leds? lol


I've noticed the UV series doesn't really work long, its like auroras, it only lasts a few days before crapping.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airs*
> 
> STH10 is finally coming together. Currently trying to figure out tubing direction/order.
> 3770k
> Asus Maximus V Ext
> Asus GTX 690
> Seasonic Platinum 1000w
> Koolance 380 and 690 blocks
> Alphacool rads - three 4x120mm, one 3x120mm
> Gentle Typhoon AP15 fans
> Bitspower fittings and res
> Swiftech MCP35x2
> Aquaero 5
> MDPC sleeving


Love how that case is just staring like "oh yeah, what else u got to put in here?" I need one.


----------



## Brandoon2010

MY TJ11 Final Build i am no longer upgrading or changing things on this PC. i'm pretty sure no one else has modded a rad onto the back of their TJ11 if so could you link me a pic. looking forward to feedback

















Sabertooth Z77, I7 2600K @ 4.9GHz, Dual Asus 7970 Direct CuII, TJ11, Thermaltake Big Water Extreme


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Love how that case is just staring like "oh yeah, what else u got to put in here?" I need one.


Git in muh belly!!!!!!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart* .
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I did it to a P4. The process isn't hard. It's a matter of taking your time and not forcing it. I had a Q6600 but I couldn't bring myself to do it to it. I don't think I could handle risking $200 for better temps. If I got one for absolutely free with a guarantee of a replacement if I messed up I'd do it.
> 
> 
> 
> I lapped a nice i7 920 to a perfect mirror shine. It never worked right again. I mailed it to deafboy and bought another one. First, and LAST, lapping attempt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Screwed up a T.R.U.E. that way too.
Click to expand...

I've been tempted to stick a cpu in a mill at work and plain it smooth. I will lap on some day but I may have to so it to a dead one first.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

added new bitspower z-multi 250 i got from microcenter for $42. next up is a block for my gpu, then new pump/top, and some sleeving/sleeved extensions (havent decided)

dont mind the PSU please, thats my next hardware purchase. hopefully after christmas. those cables make my skin crawl.


this is masterkleer tubing after using Primochill blood red for about 3 weeks. yikes. i picked up some primochill brand tubing they had at microcenter and im hoping for better luck as the blood red wont be staying in much longer.



and my kitty for good measure


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airs*
> 
> STH10 is finally coming together. Currently trying to figure out tubing direction/order.
> 3770k
> Asus Maximus V Ext
> Asus GTX 690
> Seasonic Platinum 1000w
> Koolance 380 and 690 blocks
> Alphacool rads - three 4x120mm, one 3x120mm
> Gentle Typhoon AP15 fans
> Bitspower fittings and res
> Swiftech MCP35x2
> Aquaero 5
> MDPC sleeving


Do you have a log? Luv CL









btw, which Alphacool rads?


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I've noticed the UV series doesn't really work long, its like auroras, it only lasts a few days before crapping.


Umm no.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrael*
> 
> *Cooling is also a dream, I stay at or below room temperatures with my fans at low settings while at load.*
> The Sabertooth is part of the whole here and I love all my components, but MUCH cred to Asus. Also Newegg had an openbox deal on it for 170 dollars. It's missing a couple USB 2.0 header caps (which I have been trying to replace but can't get any communication going with Asus), but it's clear the board was never used, only removed from it's box.
> If you are considering the Z77 Sabertooth, it gets two MAJOR thumbs up for me.


Those fans really must be something special.







I think you meant to say "I stay just above room temperature..." since even with 10 rads, a pair of pumps on max, and fans going 2K RPM... you're not gonna get below room temperature without active chilling somehow (TEC, Phase Change, Chillers, etc...)







Just sayin'.

Congrats on the nice system regardless - looks nice and neat.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Umm no.


Pretty much this, my Aurora lasted 2 months before I decided to finally pull it out. And at that point it was still saturated with the nano-pearls and quite attractive. Ky may have had an issue with pH that ruined it, or just didn't use the proper concentrations. Seen numerous people with UV Mayhems have it last.

Edit- Sorry, not trying to personally attack you Ky. Was just stating what I had experienced.


----------



## driftingforlife

Got my new CPU block for my bench. Bleeding it now.


----------



## kyismaster

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Pretty much this, my Aurora lasted 2 months before I decided to finally pull it out. And at that point it was still saturated with the nano-pearls and quite attractive. Ky may have had an issue with pH that ruined it, or just didn't use the proper concentrations. Seen numerous people with UV Mayhems have it last.
> Edit- Sorry, not trying to personally attack you Ky. Was just stating what I had experienced.


im using mayhem clear blue uv i used 20ml of dye to 1L of water also. Using pure water so i dont see a ph issue


----------



## kyismaster

Maybe i should try the concentrates? Ive spent 20 On dyes alone so far, if the uv concentrate doesnt work long ill be pissed


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Maybe i should try the concentrates? Ive spent 20 On dyes alone so far, if the uv concentrate doesnt work long ill be pissed


I've had UV green concentrate last months and months (not sure when I started it exactly and don't want to exaggerate). It lasted longer than the loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

kyismaster,can you edit your last post instead of double posting,thank you.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> kyismaster,can you edit your last post instead of double posting,thank you.


sorry im on a phone


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> sorry im on a phone


I still use the full site on my phone


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I still use the full site on my phone


I do as well. I really like the new mobile version too


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I still use the full site on my phone


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I do as well. I really like the new mobile version too


i should think about getting a new one

I can press edit sometimes but most of the times nothing pops up


----------



## driftingforlife

Up and running.


----------



## kyismaster

I see crop circles


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Iim using mayhem clear blue uv i used 20ml of dye to 1L of water also. Using pure water so i dont see a ph issue


Mayhems recommend to flush the entire system with water, then run it with some distilled water, during the distilled water running test the PH then. If all is good empty and fill.

You can get things inside of the loop changing the PH.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Mayhems recommend to flush the entire system with water, then run it with some distilled water, during the distilled water running test the PH then. If all is good empty and fill.
> You can get things inside of the loop changing the PH.


im pretty sure i did that 6 times with pure water, and im pretty sure i wasted about 6 gallons of pure water.

lol.

I bleed the whole loop yesterday, so now its only running on pure water.

if the UV concentrated version doesn't work, lol, things won't be pretty.

http://www.distilleddeionizedwater.com/how-to-make-pure-water/#more-230

pure water is much more neutral and pure than Distilled water.

its Revered Osmosis, Distillation, Deionization, I don't think you can get much purer


----------



## ginger_nuts

I think the key issue is to test your PH before putting the product in.

I always find it interesting, water cooling a PC we get very paranoid over what is pure water, but water cooling a building (which I do at work) we use tap water, add a few chemicals, test once a year, and leave until we have a leak or upgrade (in like 25-35 years). It is a total different setup, temp range, metals etc. but millions of dollars at stake and we use tap water.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I see crop circles


This club should change its name to "OCN Watercoolers-who-hate-the-CSQ-design Club"


----------



## marodox

My first water kit is coming in soon. Anyone have recommendations for a good, relativity cheap, fans and an fan controller? My rad is 360 mm and 8 fpi so it would be cool if the fans were pretty quiet and worked well at low speeds, but I don't want to spend a fortune on fans. I was looking at the corsair sp120 but I've had some people tell me they aren't that great. Also, I have no idea what to look for in a fan controller.


----------



## MiiX

Well I'm starting to like the crop circles... Mostly because its not to plain. But i cannot say i like it better than the old design, but no hate at all.

I've heard that the AP-15's are good fans for undervolting.
Schythe Gentle typhoon AP-15


----------



## PinzaC55

I've recently got a Lamptron FC5-V2 fan controller. Well made and you can alter the colour of the display to suit your rig. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Lamptron+FC5+V2&hl=en&tbo=u&rlz=1C1KMZB_enGB511GB511&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=aDrSUOqQMIHJ0QWQsYHYBA&ved=0CDUQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=955


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> My first water kit is coming in soon. Anyone have recommendations for a good, relativity cheap, fans and an fan controller? My rad is 360 mm and 8 fpi so it would be cool if the fans were pretty quiet and worked well at low speeds, but I don't want to spend a fortune on fans. I was looking at the corsair sp120 but I've had some people tell me they aren't that great. Also, I have no idea what to look for in a fan controller.


I'm a huge fan of Sunbeamtech and their Rheosmart 6 (have 2 of them). PWM control, 30W/channel, decent construction, lots of added accessories. Amazon has them, via Platinum Micro, Inc, for $25 which is a steal for a 6-channel controller.

I bought 8x Swiftech Helix for $6.99/fan a few weeks ago (they are $6.50 now). The only drawback is that they're a modified sleeve bearing. I wouldn't use them in a horizontal position. Haven't tried undervolting them yet.


----------



## PinzaC55

A photo of my new PC, cooled by a Corsair H100. I am currently working up the courage to go for full water cooling.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> A short video of my new PC, cooled by a Corsair H100. I am currently working up the courage to go for full water cooling so I have set aside a couple of months to read this thread. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u69vLDSLz4g&list=UUt2-YCmrLjCvF2g-qke10Gg&index=1


Please do not spam this thread,Show pictures instead of video.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> im pretty sure i did that 6 times with pure water, and im pretty sure i wasted about 6 gallons of pure water.
> lol.
> I bleed the whole loop yesterday, so now its only running on pure water.
> if the UV concentrated version doesn't work, lol, things won't be pretty.
> http://www.distilleddeionizedwater.com/how-to-make-pure-water/#more-230
> pure water is much more neutral and pure than Distilled water.
> its Revered Osmosis, Distillation, Deionization, I don't think you can get much purer


yes you can mate-try this











wfi=water for injections (only around 1 euro per litre)

*THIS IS NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH SALINE SOLUTIONS*


----------



## kyismaster

probably a double post bneg

people be tripping today.

not the first double post in a day.









nevermind 5 minutes apart, probably spam.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> probably a double post bneg
> 
> people be tripping today.
> 
> not the first double post in a day.


Not 3 minutes apart its not....


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not 3 minutes apart its not....


edited.


----------



## pledgy

I have finished for now. Here are some pictures before and after the EK-FC 7970 water block was fitted.



Temps before water block were roughly 40 Celsius idle and 55+ Celsius under load at stock (This was using a Gigabyte 7970 oc windforce x3)








Re-routed some of the tubing and added some Mayems aurora Tharsis Red.
Changed graphics card to an MSI radeon 7970 oc because I needed the reference PCB for the block.

P.S. The Gigabyte windforce x3 is for sale on ebay! ( Had less than 1 hours use )


----------



## alancsalt

Fixed..Probably wasn't showing for him so he thought the post had failed...anyway, fixed.


----------



## king8654

so, picked up the 5870 EK block and 10ft primochill, with supposed reformulation from nov '12

now have everything i need beside clamps, any good recommendations, or just local hardware store?

MCP350, EK x3 150 res, SR-1 420 rad, 3x140mm late yoons, 5870 ek asus v2 EN nickel block, 10ft primochill 1/2x3/4, 3/8x1/2 monsoon fittings(dont think ill be able to use?)

ill be back here soon enough for help, pretty noobish with WC


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Tube doesnt match the fittings.......


----------



## king8654

exactly, for the monsoon i know lol purchased before the tubing, nOOb mistake

i would of wanted the 1/2x3/4 monsoon comp correct?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Please do not spam this thread,Show pictures instead of video.


Sorry it wasn't intended as spam. I'll remove the link and replace it with a photo.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Please do not spam this thread,Show pictures instead of video.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry it wasn't intended as spam. I'll remove the link and replace it with a photo.
Click to expand...

Thats what we want to see,get them up fella.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *king8654*
> 
> exactly, for the monsoon i know lol purchased before the tubing, nOOb mistake
> 
> i would of wanted the 1/2x3/4 monsoon comp correct?


Yup.


----------



## siffonen

Hi,
Just a quick question, is it ok to change my direction of flow from res-pump-top rad-cpu-gpu-bottom rad-res to res-pump-bottom rad-gpu-cpu-top rad-res. it will clean my loop a little by saving some tubing, but will it stress my pump more because more "upphill", pump is EK DCP 4.0


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pledgy*
> 
> I have finished for now. Here are some pictures before and after the EK-FC 7970 water block was fitted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps before water block were roughly 40 Celsius idle and 55+ Celsius under load at stock (This was using a Gigabyte 7970 oc windforce x3)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-routed some of the tubing and added some Mayems aurora Tharsis Red.
> Changed graphics card to an MSI radeon 7970 oc because I needed the reference PCB for the block.
> P.S. The Gigabyte windforce x3 is for sale on ebay! ( Had less than 1 hours use )




LOL it looks like you have red spaghetti in your loop...


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Hi,
> Just a quick question, is it ok to change my direction of flow from res-pump-top rad-cpu-gpu-bottom rad-res to res-pump-bottom rad-gpu-cpu-top rad-res. it will clean my loop a little by saving some tubing, but will it stress my pump more because more "upphill", pump is EK DCP 4.0


Reservoir is before pump so you'll be fine. And the loop is a circuit, the output of the pump will likely be changed very little.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Hi,
> Just a quick question, is it ok to change my direction of flow from res-pump-top rad-cpu-gpu-bottom rad-res to res-pump-bottom rad-gpu-cpu-top rad-res. it will clean my loop a little by saving some tubing, but will it stress my pump more because more "upphill", pump is EK DCP 4.0


There is no such thing as pumping uphill, it's a loop, what gets pumped up falls back down . . . . what gets pumped down, has to be pushed back up.

Circulation is circulation wherever the pump is relative to the other parts of the loop.

Go with the cleanest look, which is usually the least tubing.

Darlene


----------



## siffonen

tought so, but had to be sure







Now i need to wait for one 90 degree fitting, so i can take my loop apart and clean my cpu block, then will it with mayhems pastel white


----------



## GTX 690 SLI

Hi
After long time deciding what and how to do most eficient cooling,came to idea to perform like this.
All parts ordered and now waiting to start with this build!!


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone here uses Mayhems Extreme Biocide? Is it safe to use with the following:

- EK Supreme HF Plexi
- Magicool Triple 180 (540mm) Radiator
- 2x Aquacomputer Aquagrafx GTX680 waterblocks
- Laing D5 with EK X-TOP v2.
- Some cheap magicool reservoir

I don't want to damage any of the waterblocks, I did use this before on the EK Supreme HF Plexi and it seemed to do OK, but never used it with the GPU waterblocks, would I damage them? I just don't like the idea of just using silver kill coil because I heard that doesn't prevent stuff from growing if it has direct sun light hitting the computer, so I thought I'd use Mayhems Extreme Biocide instead of the silver kill coil.


----------



## Derko1

Hello!

I was wondering if you guys would suggest for the fan on the bottom rad to be pulling or pushing air through the rad. I've had it pushing air down for now... but was wondering if it might be better to be be pulling air from the bottom instead.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Hello!
> I was wondering if you guys would suggest for the fan on the bottom rad to be pulling or pushing air through the rad. I've had it pushing air down for now... but was wondering if it might be better to be be pulling air from the bottom instead.


Hey Derko1!

TBH I dont think it matters.. You might have just 2c temp change if you have it as intake instead of exhaust.

Maybe I'm wrong, I am still learning after all


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandoon2010*
> 
> MY TJ11 Final Build i am no longer upgrading or changing things on this PC. i'm pretty sure no one else has modded a rad onto the back of their TJ11 if so could you link me a pic. looking forward to feedback
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sabertooth Z77, I7 2600K @ 4.9GHz, Dual Asus 7970 Direct CuII, TJ11, Thermaltake Big Water Extreme


Nice build mate! I really dig the sabertooth MB.


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTX 690 SLI*
> 
> Hi
> After long time deciding what and how to do most eficient cooling,came to idea to perform like this.
> All parts ordered and now waiting to start with this build!!


just a thought maybe think about reverseing loop 1 so that loop 2 gets coolest water just a thought other then that look great even if you do it the way in your plans


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTX 690 SLI*
> 
> Hi
> After long time deciding what and how to do most eficient cooling,came to idea to perform like this.
> All parts ordered and now waiting to start with this build!!


just a thought maybe think about reverseing loop 1 so that loop 2 gets coolest water just a thought other then that look great even if you do it the way in your plans


----------



## zubzero689

what the hell how did that happen
p.s. almost finished with my pc pic when done


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *king8654*
> 
> so, picked up the 5870 EK block and 10ft primochill, with supposed reformulation from nov '12
> 
> now have everything i need beside clamps, any good recommendations, or just local hardware store?
> 
> MCP350, EK x3 150 res, SR-1 420 rad, 3x140mm late yoons, 5870 ek asus v2 EN nickel block, 10ft primochill 1/2x3/4, 3/8x1/2 monsoon fittings(dont think ill be able to use?)
> 
> ill be back here soon enough for help, pretty noobish with WC


Hafta say that if you get Monsoon fittings that you want 1 size larger than Primchill Tubing. I think that the Monsoon fittings at 1/2" x 3/4" are not machined to the exact OD specifications of the tubing. I don't know if this is across the whole series, but I do know that I have 1/2" x 3/4" fittings that barely fit over my PrimoChill tubing(should be tight but move freely along the tubing) which causes problems when connecting and disconnecting the Collars of the fittings. Especially using the flimsy wrenches that Monsoon requires to tighten and loosen the collars.

So if you're gonna use the larger 1/2" ID tubing, go with 1/2" x 5/8" so that the collars will slide over them comfortably tight when you use 1/2" x 3/4" fittings. The tubing will not have the same bendability as the 3/4" OD tubing but it's still very resilient making the connections. 1/16" of an inch is not that much of a size difference.









~Ceadder


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hafta say that if you get Monsoon fittings that you want 1 size larger than Primchill Tubing. I think that the Monsoon fittings at 1/2" x 3/4" are not machined to the exact OD specifications of the tubing. I don't know if this is across the whole series, but I do know that I have 1/2" x 3/4" fittings that barely fit over my PrimoChill tubing(should be tight but move freely along the tubing) which causes problems when connecting and disconnecting the Collars of the fittings. Especially using the flimsy wrenches that Monsoon requires to tighten and loosen the collars.
> So if you're gonna use the larger 1/2" ID tubing, go with 1/2" x 5/8" so that the collars will slide over them comfortably tight when you use 1/2" x 3/4" fittings. The tubing will not have the same bendability as the 3/4" OD tubing but it's still very resilient making the connections. 1/16" of an inch is not that much of a size difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree with this. Primochill + Monsoon exact fit fittings = headache and sore fingers.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTX 690 SLI*
> 
> Hi
> After long time deciding what and how to do most eficient cooling,came to idea to perform like this.
> All parts ordered and now waiting to start with this build!!


Thats not efficient at all,you would be better served by directly cooling the coolant.
Those exchangers are for water chillers or external ground loops.
Koolance only use them for PSU's,they have a propriety fluid which is cooled with this via your loop.

Save your money.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> I agree with this. Primochill + Monsoon exact fit fittings = headache and sore fingers.


Great :/


----------



## SinX7

I wanna get a drain port on my loop, but what do I need? I'm going to be re-arranging my loop this weekend, and I also have extra tubing for the drain.

Do I need a T line? I want a QDC, but not sure what parts to get to make it work properly.

What do you guys think?

Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> I wanna get a drain port on my loop, but what do I need? I'm going to be re-arranging my loop this weekend, and I also have extra tubing for the drain.
> 
> Do I need a T line? I want a QDC, but not sure what parts to get to make it work properly.
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> Thanks!


T fitting, 2 barb/compression fittings, barrel adapter and plug. That's what I use. I'll be getting a male/male adapter and shutoff to add, to remove the extra length but it works very well for draining my loop w/o having to waste paper to keep my system dry. I run about 12" of tubing which is enough length to leave the interior of the case and drain into a container outside of the system.









~Ceadder


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> T fitting, 2 barb/compression fittings, barrel adapter and plug. That's what I use. I'll be getting a male/male adapter and shutoff to add, to remove the extra length but it works very well for draining my loop w/o having to waste paper to keep my system dry. I run about 12" of tubing which is enough length to leave the interior of the case and drain into a container outside of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Can you link me to those please? Kind of hard to search on my work computer lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> T fitting, 2 barb/compression fittings, barrel adapter and plug. That's what I use. I'll be getting a male/male adapter and shutoff to add, to remove the extra length but it works very well for draining my loop w/o having to waste paper to keep my system dry. I run about 12" of tubing which is enough length to leave the interior of the case and drain into a container outside of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you link me to those please? Kind of hard to search on my work computer lol.
Click to expand...

I have better pics on my system which is down but this should explain it.







Forgot to mention that if you don't get a rotary T fitting of some sort, that you will need a G1/4 male/male fitting to connect a T fitting up to either the outlet(my recommended connection spot) or the inlet side. Whichever is the lowest point of your loop.









Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

If I were to use Mayhems Extreme Biocide, should I remove the silver kill coil I have in the reservoir or should I keep it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> If I were to use Mayhems Extreme Biocide, should I remove the silver kill coil I have in the reservoir or should I keep it?


Take it out,its one thing less to interact with the fluid.


----------



## MaDeuce50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hafta say that if you get Monsoon fittings that you want 1 size larger than Primchill Tubing. I think that the Monsoon fittings at 1/2" x 3/4" are not machined to the exact OD specifications of the tubing. I don't know if this is across the whole series, but I do know that I have 1/2" x 3/4" fittings that barely fit over my PrimoChill tubing(should be tight but move freely along the tubing) which causes problems when connecting and disconnecting the Collars of the fittings. Especially using the flimsy wrenches that Monsoon requires to tighten and loosen the collars.
> So if you're gonna use the larger 1/2" ID tubing, go with 1/2" x 5/8" so that the collars will slide over them comfortably tight when you use 1/2" x 3/4" fittings. The tubing will not have the same bendability as the 3/4" OD tubing but it's still very resilient making the connections. 1/16" of an inch is not that much of a size difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Are F-ing kidding me? I just ordered $177 worth of monsoon fittings in 1/2 x 3/4 with PrimoChill tubing. Why would they do some BS like that. So now I gotta order different tubings?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaDeuce50*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hafta say that if you get Monsoon fittings that you want 1 size larger than Primchill Tubing. I think that the Monsoon fittings at 1/2" x 3/4" are not machined to the exact OD specifications of the tubing. I don't know if this is across the whole series, but I do know that I have 1/2" x 3/4" fittings that barely fit over my PrimoChill tubing(should be tight but move freely along the tubing) which causes problems when connecting and disconnecting the Collars of the fittings. Especially using the flimsy wrenches that Monsoon requires to tighten and loosen the collars.
> So if you're gonna use the larger 1/2" ID tubing, go with 1/2" x 5/8" so that the collars will slide over them comfortably tight when you use 1/2" x 3/4" fittings. The tubing will not have the same bendability as the 3/4" OD tubing but it's still very resilient making the connections. 1/16" of an inch is not that much of a size difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are F-ing kidding me? I just ordered $177 worth of monsoon fittings in 1/2 x 3/4 with PrimoChill tubing. Why would they do some BS like that. So now I gotta order different tubings?
Click to expand...

Wish I were cause then I wouldn't be replacing my tubing when I get back home. I have 1/2" x 3/4" PrimoChill White LRT. I got some more Monsoon fittings the day before I left and had a bish of a time trying to connect the Res to the Koolance Fillport/Monsoon Compression setup. It's still not connected because the tubing is so tight in the collars. So yeah if you haven't cut your tubing contact your vendor and see if they can do an exchange for you.









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Take it out,its one thing less to interact with the fluid.


Thanks!

I heard if the rig is exposed to direct sun light the silver kill coil won't prevent stuff from growing in the loop, so I better be safe and use some biocide instead.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> I agree with this. Primochill + Monsoon exact fit fittings = headache and sore fingers.


Never had any issues with my monsoons. If they don't thread easy they are on straight, finicky little buggers. But then again I get told I have gorilla hands a bit. All those years playing guitar

Mine were 3/8ths ID 1/2 OD though


----------



## PinzaC55

Closeup of Corsair H100.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ugh i hate the waiting game, all i need is my motherboard which i should get tomorrow or monday and then i can put my main rig back together, getting tired of my m14x...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Never had any issues with my monsoons. If they don't thread easy they are on straight, finicky little buggers. But then again I get told I have gorilla hands a bit. All those years playing guitar
> Mine were 3/8ths ID 1/2 OD though


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hafta say that if you get Monsoon fittings that you want 1 size larger than Primchill Tubing. I think that the Monsoon fittings at 1/2" x 3/4" are not machined to the exact OD specifications of the tubing. I don't know if this is across the whole series, but I do know that I have 1/2" x 3/4" fittings that barely fit over my PrimoChill tubing(should be tight but move freely along the tubing) which causes problems when connecting and disconnecting the Collars of the fittings. Especially using the flimsy wrenches that Monsoon requires to tighten and loosen the collars.
> So if you're gonna use the larger 1/2" ID tubing, go with 1/2" x 5/8" so that the collars will slide over them comfortably tight when you use 1/2" x 3/4" fittings. The tubing will not have the same bendability as the 3/4" OD tubing but it's still very resilient making the connections. 1/16" of an inch is not that much of a size difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have used both 3/8 x 1/2 and 3/8 x 5/8. The 3/8 x 1/2 monsoons went on smooth as butter - no problems. The 3/8 x 5/8 were tight as @!"*! I had to twist and wiggle each compression nut to get it in place! It was unbelievably difficult! So I'm thinking its just certain sizes of the monsoons that have this issue....


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I have used both 3/8 x 1/2 and 3/8 x 5/8. The 3/8 x 1/2 monsoons went on smooth as butter - no problems. The 3/8 x 5/8 were tight as @!"*! I had to twist and wiggle each compression nut to get it in place! It was unbelievably difficult! So I'm thinking its just certain sizes of the monsoons that have this issue....










my 3/8 5/8's work fine.


----------



## wermad

3/8x5/8 primochill tube was/is a pita to fit on my enzotech comps. The duralene was very easy


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 3/8x5/8 primochill tube was/is a pita to fit on my enzotech comps. The duralene was very easy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 3/8 5/8's work fine.


Interesting. I also am using them with the Duralene tubing. That's what caused me to think it was the fittings. Both sizes went on Duralene tubing. Who knows. They are on there now! That's all I'm really concerned with! LOL


----------



## Devildog83

h110i 003.jpg 843k .jpg file
 Sign me up please.

[ATTACHMENT=

[ATTACH=9113][/ATTACH]h110i 009.jpg 770k .jpg file


h110i 007.jpg 808k .jpg file


h110i 008.jpg 713k .jpg file


c70 008.jpg 975k .jpg file


c70 007.jpg 683k .jpg file
9111]

h110i 006.jpg 530k .jpg file
[/ATTACHMENT]

Sorry for the bad pics. I will take better ones if you want. Just an H100i but I'm loving it.


----------



## kyismaster

:| please embed photos


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Never had any issues with my monsoons. If they don't thread easy they are on straight, finicky little buggers. But then again I get told I have gorilla hands a bit. All those years playing guitar
> Mine were 3/8ths ID 1/2 OD though
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hafta say that if you get Monsoon fittings that you want 1 size larger than Primchill Tubing. I think that the Monsoon fittings at 1/2" x 3/4" are not machined to the exact OD specifications of the tubing. I don't know if this is across the whole series, but I do know that I have 1/2" x 3/4" fittings that barely fit over my PrimoChill tubing(should be tight but move freely along the tubing) which causes problems when connecting and disconnecting the Collars of the fittings. Especially using the flimsy wrenches that Monsoon requires to tighten and loosen the collars.
> So if you're gonna use the larger 1/2" ID tubing, go with 1/2" x 5/8" so that the collars will slide over them comfortably tight when you use 1/2" x 3/4" fittings. The tubing will not have the same bendability as the 3/4" OD tubing but it's still very resilient making the connections. 1/16" of an inch is not that much of a size difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have used both 3/8 x 1/2 and 3/8 x 5/8. The 3/8 x 1/2 monsoons went on smooth as butter - no problems. The 3/8 x 5/8 were tight as @!"*! I had to twist and wiggle each compression nut to get it in place! It was unbelievably difficult! So I'm thinking its just certain sizes of the monsoons that have this issue....
Click to expand...

Yeah I had my Gear bag packed and ready to go for the trip. Had my clothes all laid out the day before too. Got started on trying to mount everything together and stayed up the whole time rather than get sleep before leaving at Midnite for my 0540 trip. Couldn't even get the tubing onto the barbs clean enough to connect the collars. I'm sure that the machining is mostly the issue. Great fittings. I like the looks of them. But PrimoChill tubing is the last tubing I would recommend buying for Monsoon 1/2" x 3/4" fittings unless you get the next OD size down. At least they now have my White tubing in the new Advanced. I'm currently paying attention to the Plasticizer thread to see what the Advanced guys have to say about it before I spend the money on the new tubing that I shouldn't have to but more than likely will to forgo the annoyance of arguing with PrimoChill over $20 worth of tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Hi,
> Just a quick question, is it ok to change my direction of flow from res-pump-top rad-cpu-gpu-bottom rad-res to res-pump-bottom rad-gpu-cpu-top rad-res. it will clean my loop a little by saving some tubing, but will it stress my pump more because more "upphill", pump is EK DCP 4.0


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There is no such thing as pumping uphill, it's a loop, what gets pumped up falls back down . . . . what gets pumped down, has to be pushed back up.
> *Circulation is circulation wherever the pump is relative to the other parts of the loop.*
> Go with the cleanest look, which is usually the least tubing.
> Darlene


At the risk of sounding pedantic, this is not 100% true (well at least the way it's described).
Considering pressure in your tank is atmospheric, you can directly deduce the distance from the water surface in your tank and the highest component in your loop from the head rating of your pump. The pump will need to "push" that amount to get flow going in your loop. Make that distance bigger, and you'll put more stress on the pump.

That being said, considering you don't change anything in your loop other than flow direction pretty much, height does not become a new factor. Depending on your setup, reversing the flow may change the losses from blocks/fittings/tubes, but that is more likely to be negligible.

Long story short, go ahead, young padawan!


----------



## GTX 690 SLI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats not efficient at all,you would be better served by directly cooling the coolant.
> Those exchangers are for water chillers or external ground loops.
> Koolance only use them for PSU's,they have a propriety fluid which is cooled with this via your loop.
> Save your money.


I agree in one way, but my intention is to be able to jump in with third loop in which will be liquid from chiller or some other external source in case i have problem with internal cooling,that is my final idea.
And about heat transfer in this setup it will be ok i have some calculation and heat transfer will not be obstructed in any way.
My plan is to put chiller at the end of these build and to have some extreme overclocking at the and.
Please if you have some more advice be free to share i am new here and have some degree in engineering but apart form that experience is something else.
Thanks


----------



## king8654

Going to purchase the silver killcoil, now does that get dropped in res, after being bent 90*, or inserted into tubing?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *king8654*
> 
> Going to purchase the silver killcoil, now does that get dropped in res, after being bent 90*, or inserted into tubing?


I didn't even bend mines, i just dropped it in the res, its not going anywhere anytime soon.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Hello!
> I was wondering if you guys would suggest for the fan on the bottom rad to be pulling or pushing air through the rad. I've had it pushing air down for now... but was wondering if it might be better to be be pulling air from the bottom instead.


hey dude id have it as an intake, and put a filter on it. you want +ve pressure in ur case anyway so dust doesnt come in through the cracks. plus itll be feeding air to your gpus and south bridge.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *king8654*
> 
> Going to purchase the silver killcoil, now does that get dropped in res, after being bent 90*, or inserted into tubing?


Mine is weaved into my DD TDX CPU block.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *king8654*
> 
> Going to purchase the silver killcoil, now does that get dropped in res, after being bent 90*, or inserted into tubing?


Mine was just a straight piece when I got it. I twisted it around a pencil when I got it and dropped it in the res


----------



## king8654

kk thanks guys for the info! rep+


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Mine was just a straight piece when I got it. I twisted it around a pencil when I got it and dropped it in the res


oh lol, mines was a spiral when i bought it.


----------



## king8654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Mine was just a straight piece when I got it. I twisted it around a pencil when I got it and dropped it in the res
> 
> 
> 
> oh lol, mines was a spiral when i bought it.
Click to expand...

ya mine should be a spiral, but some people bend 90* so wont get sucked into pump, even though hole is smaller, thanks again!


----------



## wermad

ive actually not used silver in my current build


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks!
> I heard if the rig is exposed to direct sun light the silver kill coil won't prevent stuff from growing in the loop, so I better be safe and use some biocide instead.


Hmm not necessarily. It's not really the kill coil the sunlight is effecting. Algae needs sunlight and flourishes when it has it. If you put a fish tank near a window the same thing will happen. So biocide or killcoil won't matter either way so long as you're killing the organisms that grow.


----------



## num1son

Sorry double.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 3/8x5/8 primochill tube was/is a pita to fit on my enzotech comps. The duralene was very easy


This exactly. They go on very easily with Masterkleer as well. It's simply that Primochill tubing is very tight with Monsoons and makes them hard to turn. So if you have any hard to reach areas getting the tool on there, holding the fitting straight, pushing the fitting in to tighten it, and then turn it is no fun.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I went crazy and got silver ingots for my Narada build









Absolutely no plasticizer with my primochill tubing after 6 months (I believe)


----------



## cyclogenisis

Just Finished my new build. Water cooled GTX 690 and 3770k at 4.8ghz. Also running 6x Scythe Gentle Tycoons. No 90 Degree angles used.


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclogenisis*
> 
> Just Finished my new build. Water cooled GTX 690 and 3770k at 4.8ghz. Also running 6x Scythe Gentle Tycoons. No 90 Degree angles used.






Super clean loop and build. That switch is begging for more rads though


----------



## cyclogenisis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Super clean loop and build. That switch is begging for more rads though


You're Telling me! Wondering if the D5 pump can handle cpu block, gpu block and 2 rads?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclogenisis*
> 
> You're Telling me! Wondering if the D5 pump can handle cpu block, gpu block and 2 rads?


it certainly will







a rad would hardly add restriction to the loop, get a 240 rad and put it down there
moar rad moar rad moar rad


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclogenisis*
> 
> You're Telling me! Wondering if the D5 pump can handle cpu block, gpu block and 2 rads?


The D5 could handle that with no problem. Very nice and expensive build.


----------



## boxx2carey

few pics of my haf 932 build, after hours of work came out just as good as planned!

-ek 360xtx and ek240 xt rads
-swiftech MCP35X white
-aerocool shark 1500rpm led fans
-bitspower Z-Multi black 80mm reservoir
-xspc raystorm cpu and 2x universial gpu blocks
-switftech xfire bridge
-xspc tubing
-phoybia compressions with quick disconnects
-sunbeamtech fan controller





fans and pump are both PWM auto controlled with speed fan. dead silent on idle and getting really great temps loaded. 5.1ghz stable on my fx8350! was a PIA to work in the fill port into the build, between the 360 rad and the fan controller but it barely fit! lol that fill port was a deal breaker, if i couldnt utilize the precut hole on top of my 932 then every layout was no go. one of those little things you get obsessed with .also never realized how much work goes into sleeving cables







, next time just buying presleeved extensions!!!


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> it certainly will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a rad would hardly add restriction to the loop, get a 240 rad and put it down there
> moar rad moar rad moar rad


This. My D5 does two 240 rads, two blocks, two 90's, and about 11 feet of 1/2" tubing and I turn it down to number 3 setting while not gaming or testing and I don't see a temp difference. MORE RADS!!!!


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclogenisis*
> 
> You're Telling me! Wondering if the D5 pump can handle cpu block, gpu block and 2 rads?


For sure it will. Especially with no 90's and such a short loop. You would run into trouble if you added about 10 90's and 3 more blocks in addition to another rad. Even then, flow probably still wouldn't be bad enough to notice temps increasing.


----------



## Michalius

Swap those top rads around.

When you have the inlet/outlet ports towards the front of the case, you get to conceal all of that messy tubing. When those ports are at the rear of the case, it feels like the WC equivalent of having an EPS power plug going over the motherboard


----------



## Fonne

Has anyone tried to mail Alphacool and get a response ? - Has tried to get a reply on a product, but no reply at all ...


----------



## mxthunder

While we are somewhat on the topic of the D5, can it handle 1 cpu block, 2 gpu blocks a 360 rad, 120 rad, and 90* fitting, about 4-5 feet of tubing?
Would I need to keep the pump at setting #5? or would something like #3 be OK?

Thanks,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> While we are somewhat on the topic of the D5, can it handle 1 cpu block, 2 gpu blocks a 360 rad, 120 rad, and 90* fitting, about 4-5 feet of tubing?
> Would I need to keep the pump at setting #5? or would something like #3 be OK?
> 
> Thanks,


Easily.
Start on setting 4 and adjust from there.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *king8654*
> 
> Going to purchase the silver killcoil, now does that get dropped in res, after being bent 90*, or inserted into tubing?


It's more efficient to have it in the main flow of water, that is why in comes coiled up the way it does.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I went crazy and got silver ingots for my Narada build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely no plasticizer with my primochill tubing after 6 months (I believe)


Which Primochill tubing are you referring to? Advanced or non Advanced LRT?


----------



## kyismaster

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088

vs

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=33689

?


----------



## king8654

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by king8654
> 
> Going to purchase the silver killcoil, now does that get dropped in res, after being bent 90*, or inserted into tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> It's more efficient to have it in the main flow of water, that is why in comes coiled up the way it does.
Click to expand...

so in tubing between res and rad? any spot in particular best within the tubing?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088
> vs
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=33689
> ?


I'd go for the ACool one cause i don't like that metal play EK places on there, just looks wrong... Also seems like ACool cools more areas than the EK block, but I'm not sure.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I'd go for the ACool one cause i don't like that metal play EK places on there, just looks wrong... Also seems like ACool cools more areas than the EK block, but I'm not sure.


lets hope for the best, and not have a fried card and a useless waterblock. lol


----------



## MiiX

http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup/10#post_17662352
From Bundy


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup/10#post_17662352
> From Bundy


this is the v2 not v1


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> this is the v2 not v1


Diddnt notice that V2


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Which Primochill tubing are you referring to? Advanced or non Advanced LRT?


PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing

(non advanced.)


----------



## dumbazz

I hate to change the subject but I am going to purchase a lga 2011 water block soon and sure don`t have the time to look at 3k plus pages anyone handy with some imput please.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing
> (non advanced.)


The Advanced LRT is the new tubing that is supposed to be problem free unlike what you have bought, the PrimoFlex PRO LRT is pure crap!


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> The Advanced LRT is the new tubing that is supposed to be problem free unlike what you have bought, the PrimoFlex PRO LRT is pure crap!


Oh great, that's what I just bought. DOOOOOOH!! Now that I'm stuck with it for now, what's the problem with it? Plasticizing?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumbazz*
> 
> I hate to change the subject but I am going to purchase a lga 2011 water block soon and sure don`t have the time to look at 3k plus pages anyone handy with some imput please.


Most blocks come with an LGA2011 conversion kit. Its pretty much an LGA 1366 layout plus some full thread screws.

Swiftech Apogee HD
Koolance 380
EK Supremacy
etc.

A few companies offer conversion kits that are very inexpensive and can allow you to convert any LGA 1366 block into LGA 2011 (Phobya, Koolance, EK, etc.). Its just a new screw kit.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> The Advanced LRT is the new tubing that is supposed to be problem free unlike what you have bought, the PrimoFlex PRO LRT is pure crap!


not from my experience. i have had 0 problems with it. the only time it plasticized, was when i used it to clean my loop out, and i accidently used too much vinegar mixed with the distilled water. so much so that it took a bit of the nickel off my compression fittings. oops. but that was the ONLY time it plasticized. after i replaced that tubing, i've had absolutely no plasticizer creep back in my loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Oh great, that's what I just bought. DOOOOOOH!! Now that I'm stuck with it for now, what's the problem with it? Plasticizing?


in some people's case, yes. but its a hit and miss. the old batches of it was perfect. newer batches seems to plasticize a lot.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088
> vs
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=33689
> ?
> 
> 
> 
> I'd go for the ACool one cause i don't like that metal play EK places on there, just looks wrong... Also seems like ACool cools more areas than the EK block, but I'm not sure.
Click to expand...

You can paint the plate to whatever color you want. I painted the plate to my FC block and it looks like it came that way...




Just cause it's a metal plate don't mean you gotta leave it plain steel. That's what we do here. When it's not right, we fix it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing
> (non advanced.)
> 
> 
> 
> The Advanced LRT is the new tubing that is supposed to be problem free unlike what you have bought, the PrimoFlex PRO LRT is pure crap!
Click to expand...

This. I got the Pro LRT and have run no additives and no Killcoil, distilled only and no dyes. PrimoChill knows that it's crap. They even stated that it's likely due to running temps over 30c. I am running a non lapped CPU and Folding(temporarily down for awhile) 24/7 so I'd like to know what tubing would not be affected by temps at 35c...

There isn't a single system that runs 24/7 at 30c or under unless there is some form of cooling support like a chiller or ambient temps that run sub 30c for 365 days of the year. Can't even imagine an Intel CPU running 24/7/365 while Folding at sub 30c temps.

There is a reason they reformulated an alternative tubing. I liked my PC LRT when it didn't leech into the coolant but they won't even accept responsibility for the issue, yet they know that it happens and they know why. I don't care if I have to spend money on new tubing. That's fine. I just wish they wouldnt take the EK stance on the issue. Theirs is not the only tubing that is doing it though.

~Ceadder


----------



## Bart

I wonder if the new stuff is more flexible. This PRO LRT stuff is ruining my thumbs on compression fittings!!


----------



## ivoryg37

Just finish my build! This is the second time I've ever water-cooled so I learned from my past mistakes and got it right this time. No leaks and I have a way to drain my loop easier than my old build.

Old build


New build


----------



## wermad

The problem I see with LRT (non-adv.) is that its a tad too thick for some fittings. My phobya fittings had no issues with it but the TFC was virtually non-fitting (pardon the pun







). The XSpC were a pita but the Enzotechs where a bit better but no where near the ease of Duralene tube.

Best comp fittings I've utilized are BP. I guess that's one reason why they're pricey (good design and build).


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Just finish my build! This is the second time I've ever water-cooled so I learned from my past mistakes and got it right this time. No leaks and I have a way to drain my loop easier than my old build.
> Old build
> 
> New build


good lord, its so bright blue.


----------



## kyismaster

Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB GDDR5 (11196-00-40G) <- does anyone know where this model/number string comes from?


----------



## Bart

IT WAS YOU!! I think! Weren't you the guy/girl/horse I was supposed to let know when I mounted my Alphacool GPU block on the Sapphire? Not sure on the string BTW.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> IT WAS YOU!! I think! Weren't you the guy/girl/horse I was supposed to let know when I mounted my Alphacool GPU block on the Sapphire? Not sure on the string BTW.


good lord

but yes.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> good lord
> but yes.


That was bugging the hell out of me. I knew I told SOMEONE I'd let them know when I mounted that thing, but couldn't remember WHO! DOH. Anyway, it fits fine. See here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1339010/build-log-an-old-mans-first-blinged-out-water-build/150#post_18876392


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> That was bugging the hell out of me. I knew I told SOMEONE I'd let them know when I mounted that thing, but couldn't remember WHO! DOH. Anyway, it fits fine. See here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1339010/build-log-an-old-mans-first-blinged-out-water-build/150#post_18876392


Ack, you have a different card!

I got the one with the black pcb supposedly reference 7970 designed.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Ack, you have a different card!
> I got the one with the black pcb supposedly reference 7970 designed.


Ah damn, I thought you had the exact same model as I did. DOH! Sorry man, I tried.


----------



## wermad

Sell it and get a reference card. Easy fix









I don't buy my gpu unless I know its compatible with a block. That's just me


----------



## zubzero689

here are pic of my finished pc sorry for the crapy pic


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sell it and get a reference card. Easy fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't buy my gpu unless I know its compatible with a block. That's just me


A mistake this noob learned the hard way.


----------



## zubzero689

i modified mine it said it was compatable on the website i bout mine from i had to use j-b weld an automotive bondo if you will its rock hard and no leaks and doesnt mess with my fluid


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Ah damn, I thought you had the exact same model as I did. DOH! Sorry man, I tried.


mines supposedly compatible.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> here are pic of my finished pc sorry for the crapy pic
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: *snip*


Awesome









Is that the final location for the res? I've had a few of those Micro res and with the brackets, you can hang them in a lot of spots.


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> here are pic of my finished pc sorry for the crapy pic
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the final location for the res? I've had a few of those Micro res and with the brackets, you can hang them in a lot of spots.
Click to expand...

I change thing so much that i empty and fill the res so much that it is a good fit there i can just wipe it out and empty it and then do the work then fill it without a fillport. i also grided most of the peg off so it would be hard to mount and my case is one of those were anything can be done


----------



## bundymania

Merry Xmas to ya all !


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Merry Xmas to ya all !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I so love this golden look, if only I could find the money









Damn the fact I actually want to go and run a Ultra-Marathon

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And this is just a water cooling enthusiasts wet dream come true


----------



## kkorky

For those of you interested in Red coloured tubing-TFC Feser have just released a new type of red tubing.

It is not transparent and is a very deep red, i learned about it when i was notified by DazMode videos that i subscribe to.

The link is posted below-*I DO NOT KNOW ANY MORE DETAILS, PLEASE USE GOOGLE TO FIND OUT MORE IF INTERESTED*









I'm not in the slightest bit interested in red tubing, but i know that many of you out there are, and secondly, as someone who has used Feser tubing in the past, i can personally say that i personally have had no problems with plasticizer.

I have no idea about the new tubing with regards to plasticizer issues, all i will say is that like the new Primochill Advanced tubing, it will take time for any useful feedback to come in (6 months to be safe).

Hope this helps you 'red or dead' guys out there









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VO_rImw5XX8&feature=em-uploademail


----------



## PinzaC55

Merry Christmas from me too! Just ordered one of these, and they still have 2 left (UK).


----------



## InsideJob

I think you mean Merry Christmas bundy









Spoiler: Oh bundy :)



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Merry Xmas to ya all !


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Merry Xmas to ya all !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*sexy!*


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Merry Xmas to ya all !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *sexy!*
Click to expand...

so sexy its hot ! (i mean the VRMs, the only flaw of this WB. too bad that the V2 blovk that fixes this issue only works with ref 7950 pcbs







)

also:
Quote:


>


where could i get one of these frosted acrylic HK block? (i think it would look beast with colored coolant)


----------



## iwhocorrupts

I just picked up a GTX 580, anyone have suggestions for a good waterblock? Budget is ~100

Thanks


----------



## danman4734

water cool before overclocking


----------



## danman4734

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwhocorrupts*
> 
> I just picked up a GTX 580, anyone have suggestions for a good waterblock? Budget is ~100
> Thanks


you should check out bundymania's review http://www.overclock.net/t/1234336/bundymania-user-review-10x-gtx-570-580-fullcover-waterblocks/0_20 i have a koolance on my zotac amp oc 1ghz @1.2v and i never see temps over 60c


----------



## mxthunder

I love the evga/swiftech block the best. Its the cleanest looking, actually covers the whole card and wont cause it to warp like most other 'full cover blocks' and has given me the best temps by far.


----------



## Ceadderman

Man, I wish I didn't have to rely on Alphacool to get an EK plexi Dominator block.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I love those Alphacool blocks - too bad they weren't available much earlier!







And as far as the VRM cooling being active/passive - I really don't think that's as big a deal as many make it out to be. Sure, from an academic standpoint, active cooling is going to be better if the costs are the same - but it is a solid block of copper and there isn't much distance from the VRM bank to the main (actively cooled) block... I don't think it's a deal-breaker by any means.

I have the XSPC Razor on both of mine and they OC respectably without issue and have nearly the same design (but not as nice aesthetics IMO). Guess I can't complain since they were also $78/ea.

I think unless you have really great cards, and are going for a 24/7 OC in the 1200+/1600+ range it doesn't make all that much difference. If it did then having a better thermal interface material than transfer tape would be necessary as well. I could be wrong, and it's merely conjecture on my part, but that's what my gut tells me.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> so sexy its hot ! (i mean the VRMs, the only flaw of this WB. too bad that the V2 blovk that fixes this issue only works with ref 7950 pcbs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> also:
> where could i get one of these frosted acrylic HK block? (i think it would look beast with colored coolant)


AFAIK, it was a limited run done by a german forum member, or something of the sort. Only way to get one now is to buy it used. I read Bundy's story somewhere at some point, but can't recall where haha.

I'd love one too


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> That was bugging the hell out of me. I knew I told SOMEONE I'd let them know when I mounted that thing, but couldn't remember WHO! DOH. Anyway, it fits fine. See here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1339010/build-log-an-old-mans-first-blinged-out-water-build/150#post_18876392


hey man, what color where your caps?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> I love the evga/swiftech block the best. Its the cleanest looking, actually covers the whole card and wont cause it to warp like most other 'full cover blocks' and has given me the best temps by far.


i like your avatar (is it a 480? because then the picture is even hotter







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Man, I wish I didn't have to rely on Alphacool to get an EK plexi Dominator block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


do you mean the compatibility issue? because EK has released *these* not long ago.

or do mean the notorious crop circles?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I love those Alphacool blocks - too bad they weren't available much earlier!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And as far as the VRM cooling being active/passive - I really don't think that's as big a deal as many make it out to be. Sure, from an academic standpoint, active cooling is going to be better if the costs are the same - but it is a solid block of copper and there isn't much distance from the VRM bank to the main (actively cooled) block... I don't think it's a deal-breaker by any means.
> I have the XSPC Razor on both of mine and they OC respectably without issue and have nearly the same design (but not as nice aesthetics IMO). Guess I can't complain since they were also $78/ea.
> I think unless you have really great cards, and are going for a 24/7 OC in the 1200+/1600+ range it doesn't make all that much difference. If it did then having a better thermal interface material than transfer tape would be necessary as well. I could be wrong, and it's merely conjecture on my part, but that's what my gut tells me.


IMO the alphacool blocks are the best clean looking blocks out there. (also, it seems that they are the lightest of all) i just think that by going the wet router on your gpu you should try to get everything actively cooled if possible / available. Most peeps here on OCN are always saying to go on active cooling since if not you might as-well go universal + heatsiks. though i agree with you that the difference wouldn't be anything dramatic but many say that it could be a difference of ~10c (or 15 but i don't remember things well).
too bad alphacool released the V2 block so late









btw, what are your VRM temps with those razor blocks?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> AFAIK, it was a limited run done by a german forum member, or something of the sort. Only way to get one now is to buy it used. I read Bundy's story somewhere at some point, but can't recall where haha.
> I'd love one too


so only EK has that effect on the market now? (







)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I just got sent a pic of my rig at i47,a rare shot of the sleeping beast...


----------



## PinzaC55

Hi B Negative, I guess this has been asked before but you appear to be using solid chrome pipes there. Is that right and how did you do it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Hi B Negative, I guess this has been asked before but you appear to be using solid chrome pipes there. Is that right and how did you do it?


Pipebending guide in my sig.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just got sent a pic of my rig at i47,a rare shot of the sleeping beast...


very nice!

besides the inverted psu lol

I ended up getting a alphacool v2 block regardless, lets hope for the best lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Man, I wish I didn't have to rely on Alphacool to get an EK plexi Dominator block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you mean the compatibility issue? because EK has released *these* not long ago.
> 
> *or do mean the notorious crop circles?*
Click to expand...

That latter. I don't have any crop circle blocks in my system so putting one in doesn't fit with the scheme of my build. Sad that Alphacool is stepping in with the same design that EK used to manufacture. I've been saying all along that EK should continue to build what they already had and supplement with the new designs. Looks like Alphacool gets it.









~Ceadder


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> very nice!
> besides the inverted psu lol
> I ended up getting a alphacool v2 block regardless, lets hope for the best lol


...... the motherboard is inverted......


----------



## kyismaster

on that note, i bought a single bracket converter for my gpu







slim card, slim slot.

heres my card:



 somewhat cheap
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> ...... the motherboard is inverted......


thats normal though


----------



## mironccr345




----------



## Ceadderman

Is that a 3gig Card kyimaster?









~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is that a 3gig Card kyimaster?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


why yes, yes it is.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just got sent a pic of my rig at i47,a rare shot of the sleeping beast...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: sleeping beauty


so what happens when it wakes up?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> very nice!
> besides the inverted psu lol
> I ended up getting a alphacool v2 block regardless, lets hope for the best lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> on that note, i bought a single bracket converter for my gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> slim card, slim slot.
> heres my card:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: a new hope?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> somewhat cheap


i hope for the best too








lets see how accurate alphacool is on their compatibility list is







. maybe they meant 7950/70 ref pcb compatible who knows? (though unfortunately by the installation guide it becomes clear that it was made specifically to the 7950 ref VRMs location and chokes)
(and i don't think that a single slot is necessary, though i can understand why)

also, you are lucky. if i were to order what you have ordered now it would cost me at least 5 times more and i'd have to wait at least twice as long. (plus a possible 17% tax







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That latter. I don't have any crop circle blocks in my system so putting one in doesn't fit with the scheme of my build. Sad that Alphacool is stepping in with the same design that EK used to manufacture. I've been saying all along that EK should continue to build what they already had and supplement with the new designs. Looks like Alphacool gets it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yep, pretty much that. its not that i hate the design, its just that it requires the whole theme to be that design (i.e. but more EK products)

but i think that it is possible to get a single frosted acrylic block without making it too horrible (actually pretty if done right, like the quote below))
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is that a 3gig Card kyimaster?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


7970/50s come w/ 3gb standard







. There's a few 6gb 7970s out there too









Damn you FedEx!!!! Getting my hopes up thinking the Monsta rad would arrive today







. I would be lucky to get it in by x-mas eve


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That latter. I don't have any crop circle blocks in my system so putting one in doesn't fit with the scheme of my build. Sad that Alphacool is stepping in with the same design that EK used to manufacture. I've been saying all along that EK should continue to build what they already had and supplement with the new designs. Looks like Alphacool gets it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yep, pretty much that. its not that i hate the design, its just that it requires the whole theme to be that design (i.e. but more EK products)
> 
> but i think that it is possible to get a single frosted acrylic block without making it too horrible (actually pretty if done right, like the quote below))
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

But they don't make them for 68** series, so they encourage us to go elsewhere when they stop a run to change the style. This is my main issue. We start a loop and the only way to finish it and have it all visually compatible is to buy the blocks altogether. EK seems to discourage piecemeal purchasing. So you have to have a full bank account in order to be a watercooler in their eyes. No wonder there are rumors that he's not plush. Maybe if he used some common sense, EK would be better off.









No reason to fully end a production run unless the Card/board/CPU is more than 2 generations past. Slowing production to a crawl is better than slamming the brakes on and discouraging n00bs on a budget from buying their products. I don't expect any company to break their backs at their own expense to the detriment of their business but there are ways to make most everyone happy when properly applied.









~Ceadder


----------



## nleksan

I think the various finishes for the HK CPU Blocks can all be had from PPC's, FCPU, Sidewinder's, etc... I recall seeing them all on one of the three, and pretty sure it wasn't FCPU...

Those Alphacool blocks are pretty dang gorgeous, they remind me a lot of the Aquacomputer ones but I like that Alphacool offers multiple (at least 4, yes?) finishes; if you made a block that was "brushed black aluminum" with the the letters cut-out of the top so that the "alphacool" writing is in copper, or something like that, I'd be all over it! Especially if they made a WHITE backplate!

I absolutely positively LOVE the RAM blocks, though! I have been more and more considering attempting to remove the Ripjaws Z heatspreaders from my memory, and get one of the universal kits like the Clear Plexi(Acetal?)/Copper Alphacool one you have there, or possibly the XSPC Universal kit (although it looks a bit...boring, in pictures at least), or maybe even the MIPS one (pure sexy-sauce!).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That latter. I don't have any crop circle blocks in my system so putting one in doesn't fit with the scheme of my build. Sad that Alphacool is stepping in with the same design that EK used to manufacture. I've been saying all along that EK should continue to build what they already had and supplement with the new designs. Looks like Alphacool gets it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yep, pretty much that. its not that i hate the design, its just that it requires the whole theme to be that design (i.e. but more EK products)
> 
> but i think that it is possible to get a single frosted acrylic block without making it too horrible (actually pretty if done right, like the quote below))
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> But they don't make them for 68** series, so they encourage us to go elsewhere when they stop a run to change the style. This is my main issue. We start a loop and the only way to finish it and have it all visually compatible is to buy the blocks altogether. EK seems to discourage piecemeal purchasing. So you have to have a full bank account in order to be a watercooler in their eyes. No wonder there are rumors that he's not plush. Maybe if he used some common sense, EK would be better off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No reason to fully end a production run unless the Card/board/CPU is more than 2 generations past. Slowing production to a crawl is better than slamming the brakes on and discouraging n00bs on a budget from buying their products. I don't expect any company to break their backs at their own expense to the detriment of their business but there are ways to make most everyone happy when properly applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

The 68** cards wasnt very well supported from the start,i couldnt get a pair of full covers for my 6870 DCII's
Try liquid Extacy,they tend to support older cards.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But they don't make them for 68** series, so they encourage us to go elsewhere when they stop a run to change the style. This is my main issue. We start a loop and the only way to finish it and have it all visually compatible is to buy the blocks altogether. EK seems to discourage piecemeal purchasing. So you have to have a full bank account in order to be a watercooler in their eyes. No wonder there are rumors that he's not plush. Maybe if he used some common sense, EK would be better off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No reason to fully end a production run unless the Card/board/CPU is more than 2 generations past. Slowing production to a crawl is better than slamming the brakes on and discouraging n00bs on a budget from buying their products. I don't expect any company to break their backs at their own expense to the detriment of their business but there are ways to make most everyone happy when properly applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i couldn't agree with you more on this. it is quite annoying that you need to plan your loop before you plan your build. and I've only seen that recently EK released a new (though limited edition iirc) 6970 blok (which wasn't crop circle) but other than that nothing. (but EK isn't the only one who stops support for older parts, though they are the fastest to do so)

but on a different note, i must give it to EK for the frosted acrylic effect even if its crop circles. (though some might say it is meant to hide something








)


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> so what happens when it wakes up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i hope for the best too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lets see how accurate alphacool is on their compatibility list is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . maybe they meant 7950/70 ref pcb compatible who knows? (though unfortunately by the installation guide it becomes clear that it was made specifically to the 7950 ref VRMs location and chokes)
> (and i don't think that a single slot is necessary, though i can understand why)
> also, you are lucky. if i were to order what you have ordered now it would cost me at least 5 times more and i'd have to wait at least twice as long. (plus a possible 17% tax
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> yep, pretty much that. its not that i hate the design, its just that it requires the whole theme to be that design (i.e. but more EK products)
> but i think that it is possible to get a single frosted acrylic block without making it too horrible (actually pretty if done right, like the quote below))


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 7970/50s come w/ 3gb standard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . There's a few 6gb 7970s out there too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn you FedEx!!!! Getting my hopes up thinking the Monsta rad would arrive today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would be lucky to get it in by x-mas eve


Yes, my card is on the compatibility list!

11196-10-40G <- it uses 7970 reference

by the way, good price for a koolance block 7970

http://koolance.com/vid-ar797-r-video-card-vga-amd-radeon-hd-7970-water-block-refurb


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Yes, my card is on the compatibility list!
> 11196-10-40G <- it uses 7970 reference


its on the part of the list which fits the V1 block








(having the same card and i feel the same frustration)

also, take a look here:
http://www.alphacool.com/download/Anleitung_HD%2079xx_oB.pdf

(it is almost clear that its the 7950 but it says 79xx so







)


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> its on the part of the list which fits the V1 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (having the same card and i feel the same frustration)
> also, take a look here:
> http://www.alphacool.com/download/Anleitung_HD%2079xx_oB.pdf


lol, on the v2 list from performance pc's its on there.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088



also the same on alphacool website


----------



## B NEGATIVE

LE 6870 blocks.


http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-6870-detail

http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-6870-lp-detail

Sapphire specific blocks


http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-6870-b-lp-sapphire-detail

http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-6870-b-sapphire-detail

Also 7970 Matrix block..


http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-7970-b-matrix-detail


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol, on the v2 list from performance pc's its on there.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088


the list is divided to 3 parts (from left to right): 1st is the V2 bock compatibility list, 2nd is the V1 and 3rd is the 6950/70 compatibility list. the 1196-10-40 (7970 pcb) card is on the V1 list while the 1196-00-40 (ref 7950) is on the V2 part. thouh i'd love to be wrong or that the entire list is for the V2.

http://www.alphacool.com/download/compatibility%20list%20ATI.pdf


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> the list is divided to 3 parts (from left to right): 1st is the V2 bock compatibility list, 2nd is the V1 and 3rd is the 6950/70 compatibility list. the 1196-10-40 (7970 pcb) card is on the V1 list while the 1196-00-40 (ref 7950) is on the V2 part. thouh i'd love to be wrong or that the entire list is for the V2.
> http://www.alphacool.com/download/compatibility%20list%20ATI.pdf


aww snap, im fudged.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> LE 6870 blocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-6870-detail
> http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-6870-lp-detail
> Sapphire specific blocks
> 
> http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-6870-b-lp-sapphire-detail
> http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-6870-b-sapphire-detail
> Also 7970 Matrix block..
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-7970-b-matrix-detail


Noyce!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i couldn't agree with you more on this. it is quite annoying that you need to plan your loop before you plan your build. and I've only seen that recently EK released a new (though limited edition iirc) 6970 blok (which wasn't crop circle) but other than that nothing. (but EK isn't the only one who stops support for older parts, though they are the fastest to do so)
> but on a different note, i must give it to EK for the frosted acrylic effect even if its crop circles. (though some might say it is meant to hide something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


It *is* meant to hide something, namely an *UGLY INTERNAL MECHANISM*-but dont take my word for it, look at this vid from an EK sponsored Case Modder









Around position 5:48

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3QWajDfwew


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> aww snap, im fudged.


i was able to get Performance-pcs to swap the blocks before it was shipped, thank god lol. phew.


----------



## k.3nny

Buildlog:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1329103/k-3nnys-classy-lianli-pc-7hx-casebuild/0_50


----------



## She loved E

jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesus


----------



## kyismaster

its alive, its alive!


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

C-can i Join Overclock-kun?


----------



## Bart

Nice rigs guys! Nice pics too. I need one of you guys to teach me some camera skills! Mine SUCK:


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *She loved E*
> 
> jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesus


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> its alive, its alive!


Ty guys







!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buildlog:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1329103/k-3nnys-classy-lianli-pc-7hx-casebuild/0_50


How did you train the tubing like that?


----------



## k.3nny

Look buildlog mate,









Its Acrylic piping







no tubing


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Look buildlog mate,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its Acrylic piping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no tubing


NICE!!!!


----------



## k.3nny

Thats what i thought


----------



## corysti




----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Look buildlog mate,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its Acrylic piping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no tubing


Sweeeeeeeeet.









Checkin it out right now. It looks amazing!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

mayhems laser green




i want to mount this res horizontal, anyone ever done that with this res and a switch 810?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velcrowchickensoup*


Tame that wild fan wire on the left. It really sticks out in an otherwise really clean build


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velcrowchickensoup*
> 
> 
> 
> C-can i Join Overclock-kun?


I suspect sleeving in your future


----------



## Kyouki

OK I cant wait to show you guys my Re build of my computer with first custom water cool loops but before I post up the build log I am very frustrated with the Cooling I am getting. I am on a x79 2011 socket with a 3930k at 4.3, and with my H100 I was at average 28c at idle. I am now using XSPC RayStorm High Performance Acetal CPU Liquid Cooling Block and sitting at 43c. NOW FOR THE NOOB question before I strip it down. it came wrapped in a clear sticky protected wrapper around full block. So I assumed there was no clear backing on the copper. Do I need to strip it down and check? I don't remember seeing on on there but I could of missed it in the excitement. and sorry if this does not make since been up straight working on this.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> OK I cant wait to show you guys my Re build of my computer with first custom water cool loops but before I post up the build log I am very frustrated with the Cooling I am getting. I am on a x79 2011 socket with a 3930k at 4.3, and with my H100 I was at average 28c at idle. I am now using XSPC RayStorm High Performance Acetal CPU Liquid Cooling Block and sitting at 43c. NOW FOR THE NOOB question before I strip it down. it came wrapped in a clear sticky protected wrapper around full block. So I assumed there was no clear backing on the copper. Do I need to strip it down and check? I don't remember seeing on on there but I could of missed it in the excitement. and sorry if this does not make since been up straight working on this.


the sticky paper for the raystorms for the copper side is HUGE

you cant miss it.

if you don't believe me watch my video


----------



## Systemlord

Delete


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> the sticky paper for the raystorms for the copper side is HUGE
> you cant miss it.


That what I thought it came wrapped in it. So there is not another one on the copper that i need to peel off? if so i am wondering why I am getting more then 10c higher temps with better block then h100 and more Rad space.

BTW here is a teaser picture. I need to clean it up still. there are finger prints and the green need to be dyed a little darker.


----------



## NomNomNom

Would a swiftech 320 qp and a swiftech 420 xp be sufficient to obtain a 5c water delta with a overclocked i7 860 and overclocked 7950?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> That what I thought it came wrapped in it. So there is not another one on the copper that i need to peel off? if so i am wondering why I am getting more then 10c higher temps with better block then h100 and more Rad space.
> BTW here is a teaser picture. I need to clean it up still. there are finger prints and the green need to be dyed a little darker.


You could always unscrew the block and check,







Re-applying TIM ain't that bad.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> You could always unscrew the block and check,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-applying TIM ain't that bad.


True, because I wont sleep till I know why it got worse after all this hard work.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> True, because I wont sleep till I know why it got worse after all this hard work.


too much tim, to little tim, not seated good enough, i dunno loool, could be so many factors.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> too much tim, to little tim, not seated good enough, i dunno loool, could be so many factors.


SUPER NOOOOB, hahah so i removed it now I got a short tube so this is a little hard. but I still had the clear film on it. But I had removed the main Large one so I guess mine had 2 covering it. Time to re-Tim it and bolt it up!

thank you

Update: temps are now down to 28c-30c on idle, just using Asus monitor. I really though I would get better then my H100 this is the same. but with applying the paste I tried the line method for the first time due to the small area I had to work in and all the tubes around me. I normally do a even thin spread, but I am sure the pressure will spread it out well. I seen other people use that method.


----------



## Blaze0303

Well, my setup isnt as nice as everyone else's but here it is! BTW i'm using Mayhems Pastel Ice White


----------



## corysti

Nice looking rig man, I think you done a good job on the rig. Quick question thought, Are you using your rad fans as the exhaust and all case fans as intake?


----------



## Blaze0303

Yes I am.


----------



## corysti

Alright, just checking


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> LE 6870 blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-6870-lp-detail
> 
> Sapphire specific blocks


Wish AquaTuning carried this block. Although I'd much rather have the Universal Bridge series blocks for future upgrades. I'd even go out of my way to get 2, 3 and 4 slot vga connection if I could. I did see that AT has four EK Acetal full cover blocks in stock. Rather have Universals though. Until I can afford a new Full Cover block every time I upgrade Universals suit me better.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Look buildlog mate,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its Acrylic piping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no tubing


Almost had me ***pin.




















~Ceadder


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> Well, my setup isnt as nice as everyone else's but here it is! BTW i'm using Mayhems Pastel Ice White


Looking good! next stop, gpu cooling
nice photo btw


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> SUPER NOOOOB, hahah so i removed it now I got a short tube so this is a little hard. but I still had the clear film on it. But I had removed the main Large one so I guess mine had 2 covering it. Time to re-Tim it and bolt it up!
> thank you
> Update: temps are now down to 28c-30c on idle, just using Asus monitor. I really though I would get better then my H100 this is the same. but with applying the paste I tried the line method for the first time due to the small area I had to work in and all the tubes around me. I normally do a even thin spread, but I am sure the pressure will spread it out well. I seen other people use that method.


ah crud, maybe mines still on there too LOL

though my temps are good to me. hmm.


----------



## DragonCypher

About to do a complete rebuild of my own system, I'm currently on holidays in Perth for a couple weeks and decided I'm going to do a complete rebuild of my PC's internals.

Made some purchases online so when I get home tomorrow, waiting for me will be:
EVGA FTW3 x58 mobo
i7 950
Palit 660ti Jetstream x 3

and to accompany this,
XSPC Raystorm block
XSPC Razer 670 blocks x 3
Monsoon red compression fittings w/ white primochill tubing and a couple D-plugs

Should be a fun rebuild
Once done I'll probably sell the CHIVF motherboard with EK waterblock and a few other unnecessary bits and pieces.

I'll be cooling it all with an RS360, RX240, 150mm tube res and a DDC pump
Will post pics upon completion (assuming it goes well)


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> SUPER NOOOOB, hahah so i removed it now I got a short tube so this is a little hard. but I still had the clear film on it. But I had removed the main Large one so I guess mine had 2 covering it. Time to re-Tim it and bolt it up!
> thank you
> Update: temps are now down to 28c-30c on idle, just using Asus monitor. I really though I would get better then my H100 this is the same. but with applying the paste I tried the line method for the first time due to the small area I had to work in and all the tubes around me. I normally do a even thin spread, but I am sure the pressure will spread it out well. I seen other people use that method.


I just went from an H100 too. I'm about 4-5 degrees cooler now than I was before. The TIM pad on the H100, plus the stock fans, do a GREAT job on that thing. Mine performed REALLY well, so I don't think you're in bad shape at all. TIM installs are a *****! So much room for error there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> Well, my setup isnt as nice as everyone else's but here it is! BTW i'm using Mayhems Pastel Ice White


Looks great man, nice and clean! I went with almost the same gear and added more junk, and it's a mess compared to yours!


----------



## SpecializedPro

Have finally watercooled the rig, still not 100% sure what im doing with my 580's either watercool and overclock or wait and grab some 780's, so havent installed my RX240 yet, just the RX360, running at 5ghz with no issues, it wasnt very happy running 5ghz for long periods on the H100.

Also had to mount my Swiftech MCP655 upside down as not enough space in the bottom of 800D to have it upright and get tubing on, not worried as i have read it doesnt matter what way up the pump is as long as its always filled with fluid and flow isnt restricted.

Idle temps are down from 60's to late 30;s early 40's depending on core.
Load temps down from 80's to late 50's early 60's and that flat out for 8 hours on AIDA64 Extreme. Battlefield 3 temps dont go any higher than 56 degrees whereas on the H100 they would hit the 80's and it would eventually blue screen.

Only thing i'm not happy with is my Mayhems pastel Black, it looks like dirty dish water not black!!, did the 250ml to 750 water and it came out more brown that black, have added a few more drops and its got darker but still not black.

Any ideas??, still have one bottle left but not sure if i will use again!

5Ghz Idle temps.docx 265k .docx file


Some pics


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## JulioCesarSF




----------



## Alfaa

Quick question: Is the XSPC Raystorm supposed to come with the AMD mounting bracket? Mine only came with the bracket that looks like this and not this one. If it isn't supposed to come with it, can I get it from somewhere else?

Thanks!









EDIT: I think I just answered my own question. Dammit


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Quick question: Is the XSPC Raystorm supposed to come with the AMD mounting bracket? Mine only came with the bracket that looks like this and not this one. If it isn't supposed to come with it, can I get it from somewhere else?
> Thanks!


To keep the costs down, XSPC sells the amd version separately. You have a SB cpu,so that bracket should work


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To keep the costs down, XSPC sells the amd version separately. You have a SB cpu,so that bracket should work


It was for my brother's first loop, unfortunately. I'll have to call XSPC after the holiday and see if they can ship me the AMD stuff. Thanks for the reply, though!









Oh, yea: Happy Holidays to everyone!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To keep the costs down, XSPC sells the amd version separately. You have a SB cpu,so that bracket should work


mines came with the AMD bracket lol


----------



## kcuestag

Decided to clean the rad and fans, and swapped the fans from push to a pull config, so the computer doesn't atract as much dust as in push config (Although I have filters below the rad):



To my surprise the fans run MUCH quieter in pull config, probably because in push config they were not screwed into the case, but just left there on the floor with the rad on top. Now at full speed on the AP-181 fans (~1200rpm) they're as quiet as they were at ~800rpm before!









PS: I'll make a better picture during the day.


----------



## TheNovice

Is it possible to remove the silver thing/sticker from the top of the EK CSQ design blocks!

\M


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Is it possible to remove the silver thing/sticker from the top of the EK CSQ design blocks!
> \M


Yes, with the tip of a knife or realy smal flathead screwdriver


----------



## zubzero689

why are all the people out there think that 55c is low for temps i have ran my stuff tho so much and never went above 45c on the cpu and 40c on my gpu my vrm might get to 50c but that is rare i know i keep my room under 16c but that shouldnt be that big of a deal and my waterloop doesnt have these huge 480mm rads x2 and stuff you put both my rads togather and you get a 360 i have 1 120mm and 1 240mm and when my comp is just idle its 25-27c for cpu and 22c for the gpu now thos i think are low temps


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> why are all the people out there think that 55c is low for temps i have ran my stuff tho so much and never went above 45c on the cpu and 40c on my gpu my vrm might get to 50c but that is rare i know i keep my room under 16c but that shouldnt be that big of a deal and my waterloop doesnt have these huge 480mm rads x2 and stuff you put both my rads togather and you get a 360 i have 1 120mm and 1 240mm and when my comp is just idle its 25-27c for cpu and 22c for the gpu now thos i think are low temps


First of all, you have an AMD CPU which tends to run cooler, and is more sensitive to temperatures, 40-50ºC on that CPU is like running 60-65ºC on an Intel CPU, it's perfectly fine.

As for the GPU, that temperature is good, it's what I get on my GTX680 SLI, highest I've seen was 55ºC but that was with room temperature of 35ºC in August, these days my CPU maxes at ~60ºC (4.6GHz i7 3930k) and GPU's max at ~40-45ºC with room temperature of ~25-26ºC.









Not everyone has a room temperature of 16ºC or below, I'd love to though.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> why are all the people out there think that 55c is low for temps i have ran my stuff tho so much and never went above 45c on the cpu and 40c on my gpu my vrm might get to 50c but that is rare i *know i keep my room under 16c but that shouldnt be that big of a deal* and my waterloop doesnt have these huge 480mm rads x2 and stuff you put both my rads togather and you get a 360 i have 1 120mm and 1 240mm and when my comp is just idle its 25-27c for cpu and 22c for the gpu now thos i think are low temps


LOL! Of COURSE that's a big deal! That's actually a HUGE deal.


----------



## zubzero689

i hate heat its the worst thing for me is i sweat and thats no good and luck i dont have central air i just open a window in the winter i have a thos dual fans and i put its on one and it keeps the room around 16c


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> why are all the people out there think that 55c is low for temps i have ran my stuff tho so much and never went above 45c on the cpu and 40c on my gpu my vrm might get to 50c but that is rare i know i keep my room under 16c but that shouldnt be that big of a deal and my waterloop doesnt have these huge 480mm rads x2 and stuff you put both my rads togather and you get a 360 i have 1 120mm and 1 240mm and when my comp is just idle its 25-27c for cpu and 22c for the gpu now thos i think are low temps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> i hate heat its the worst thing for me is i sweat and thats no good and luck i dont have central air i just open a window in the winter i have a thos dual fans and i put its on one and it keeps the room around 16c


Just out of curiosity, have you ever written anything in more than one sentence? And used capital letters and punctuation?








Edit:
Reviewing my response, it comes across as a bit too harsh imo. Who did I think I was, the grammar nazi? My apologies, zubzero689


----------



## LiquidHaus

dusted out my Narada build today, figured i'd take some pics outside in the light


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> mines came with the AMD bracket lol


Mine didn't







you talking about the top bracket, not the rear,?


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine didn't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you talking about the top bracket, not the rear,?


Yea. for AMD you have to use the rear bracket that comes with the motherboard, right?


----------



## Blaze0303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Looking good! next stop, gpu cooling
> nice photo btw


Thanks a lot. I'm actually looking for a 7950 block used or on sale








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Looks great man, nice and clean! I went with almost the same gear and added more junk, and it's a mess compared to yours!


Again thank you! I think I have the wc bug now lol.


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> why are all the people out there think that 55c is low for temps i have ran my stuff tho so much and never went above 45c on the cpu and 40c on my gpu my vrm might get to 50c but that is rare i know i keep my room under 16c but that shouldnt be that big of a deal and my waterloop doesnt have these huge 480mm rads x2 and stuff you put both my rads togather and you get a 360 i have 1 120mm and 1 240mm and when my comp is just idle its 25-27c for cpu and 22c for the gpu now thos i think are low temps
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> i hate heat its the worst thing for me is i sweat and thats no good and luck i dont have central air i just open a window in the winter i have a thos dual fans and i put its on one and it keeps the room around 16c
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just out of curiosity, have you ever written anything in more than one sentence? And used capital letters and punctuation?
Click to expand...

Only when it is asked of me or if I am writing it by hand i use punctuation and caps. I also don't type much to people i am a big loner.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Aquacomputer flow and temp sensors installed. Tubing runs tidied up a bit.


----------



## wermad

^^^I had to take a second look to notice your sleeve colors. That's very impressive!


----------



## cyclogenisis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> mines came with the AMD bracket lol


samezies


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> why are all the people out there think that 55c is low for temps i have ran my stuff tho so much and never went above 45c on the cpu and 40c on my gpu my vrm might get to 50c but that is rare i know i keep my room under 16c but that shouldnt be that big of a deal and my waterloop doesnt have these huge 480mm rads x2 and stuff you put both my rads togather and you get a 360 i have 1 120mm and 1 240mm and when my comp is just idle its 25-27c for cpu and 22c for the gpu now thos i think are low temps
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> i hate heat its the worst thing for me is i sweat and thats no good and luck i dont have central air i just open a window in the winter i have a thos dual fans and i put its on one and it keeps the room around 16c
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just out of curiosity, have you ever written anything in more than one sentence? And used capital letters and punctuation?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Only when it is asked of me or if I am writing it by hand i use punctuation and caps. I also don't type much to people i am a big loner.
Click to expand...

Ok, I see what you mean now I didn't mean to sound harsh either, I just wasn't used to seeing such big sentences!
I personally can't type worth a darn myself. So I pick away at the keys with two fingers
Back to your topic, you seem to be getting very good temps. Maybe the Lanboy Air is helping that as well. It depends on the cpu, both with Intel and AMD.
Sounds like you've got that water cooling setup really dialed-in:thumb:

Edit:
I just had a look of your Red Menace build photos, nice build! I can see why you're getting such good temps.


----------



## wermad

Relocated my pump/res unit to the top compartment. Damn FedEx delayed my package until the end of the week. so no new Monsta rad







. Since I only have Mayhems Emerald green, added more to what i have left of the blue liquid. Might end up dumping it and just going with green.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Yea. for AMD you have to use the rear bracket that comes with the motherboard, right?


pretty sure that was the case for me.

motherboards are the only things that'll come with the rear bracket afaik


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> This. Removing the IHS on a CPU.


All I can think of is *takes a Jim Carey-ish blargh-ing voice* OMGWASTEDPCBSPACE

More seriously... The actual CPU is so small compared to what thought... I'm shocked.

Edit: I need new eyes and more brains. this is the 8th time I edit/fix this post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*


That looks so... Military.


----------



## GTX 690 SLI

Guys hi i think i have found nice way to use Tubing reservoirs (80mm dia,may with 60mm if dia is ID,inner dia of reservoir?) with this pumps which are perfect and saving space with this configuration a lot, and look nice i think.
I was thinking alot which pump and configuration and this seems a good idea??
Here are pumps

http://www.lightobject.com/14Lm-220GPH-Small-DC24V-Straight-through-Brushless-Submersible-Water-oil-Pump-P679.aspx

Also there are more explanations here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1254145/found-some-new-pumps/30

http://www.vpi.us/cable-glands.html

There is problem for this pump to run dry but if you have three openings on top of reservoir one can be for level measuring floater,one return and one for cable gland.
I think nice idea??!


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To keep the costs down, XSPC sells the amd version separately. You have a SB cpu,so that bracket should work


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Quick question: Is the XSPC Raystorm supposed to come with the AMD mounting bracket? Mine only came with the bracket that looks like this and not this one. If it isn't supposed to come with it, can I get it from somewhere else?
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I think I just answered my own question. Dammit


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> mines came with the AMD bracket lol


If you check out PPC, they recently started including both brackets with the Raystorm Intel version.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> why are all the people out there think that 55c is low for temps i have ran my stuff tho so much and never went above 45c on the cpu and 40c on my gpu my vrm might get to 50c but that is rare i know i keep my room under 16c but that shouldnt be that big of a deal and my waterloop doesnt have these huge 480mm rads x2 and stuff you put both my rads togather and you get a 360 i have 1 120mm and 1 240mm and when my comp is just idle its 25-27c for cpu and 22c for the gpu now thos i think are low temps


Fullstops sir, they are there to be used.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Fullstops sir, they are there to be used.


Surely we do not have to have perfect punctuation?

Becoz I use slang and always double space me comments


----------



## Capt Proton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Surely we do not have to have perfect punctuation?
> Becoz I use slang and always double space me comments


Perfect? No.

Some? Yes.

It makes it much easier to read and fully comprehend your message. My own opinion is tat if someone does not have time to at least attempt proper grammar, then I don't have time to try and read it. Maybe no loss to you, I'm just sayin'.

By the way, capital letters work with punctuation.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Enough of the grammar nazi already,English is not always the first language here.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> If you check out PPC, they recently started including both brackets with the Raystorm Intel version.


Where do you see this? I actually ordered mine from PPCs and it was a shocked when I saw it didn't include the AMD bracket.

I see that it has the 2011 hardware, but not the AMD hardware.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTX 690 SLI*
> 
> Guys hi i think i have found nice way to use Tubing reservoirs (80mm dia,may with 60mm if dia is ID,inner dia of reservoir?) with this pumps which are perfect and saving space with this configuration a lot, and look nice i think.
> I was thinking alot which pump and configuration and this seems a good idea??
> Here are pumps
> http://www.lightobject.com/14Lm-220GPH-Small-DC24V-Straight-through-Brushless-Submersible-Water-oil-Pump-P679.aspx
> Also there are more explanations here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1254145/found-some-new-pumps/30
> http://www.vpi.us/cable-glands.html
> There is problem for this pump to run dry but if you have three openings on top of reservoir one can be for level measuring floater,one return and one for cable gland.
> I think nice idea??!


that's a very cool idea...i would have never though of that







...that comment about the pump on the website was from me lol...i have bought 2 of them and their still kicking a full speed @ 24v 24/7 great versatile pumps for the price.

if you could get a larger res like a 250 mil then you wouldn't need to worry about the pump running dry as pump would have enough space to intake water from...but keep mind that larger res mean taller case so if the space in you case not on issues then you should be good


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Where do you see this? I actually ordered mine from PPCs and it was a shocked when I saw it didn't include the AMD bracket.
> I see that it has the 2011 hardware, but not the AMD hardware.


Sidewinder computers has the AMD raystorm top bracket and mounting hardware. It was the only way I could mount my full copper raystorm to my AMD CPU. It comes with small screws to mount directly to the OEM backplate and it also comes with longer screws and additional hardware for mounting with without the OEM backplate.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsraadkitfor.html


----------



## kcuestag

Here are 2 shots I did with soem sun light:





Pull config is so much better than push, the fans run quieter (Due to less vibration probably) and less dust into the rig/filters.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Looked better when it was in the 800D


WC case looks SUPER-AMAZING!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> CM Seidon 120M
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my video review of it
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1325959/cm-seidon-120m-review


its not a real custom loop, but Respectively, Your rig looks Super CLEAN, though.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTX 690 SLI*
> 
> Guys hi i think i have found nice way to use Tubing reservoirs (80mm dia,may with 60mm if dia is ID,inner dia of reservoir?) with this pumps which are perfect and saving space with this configuration a lot, and look nice i think.
> I was thinking alot which pump and configuration and this seems a good idea??
> Here are pumps
> http://www.lightobject.com/14Lm-220GPH-Small-DC24V-Straight-through-Brushless-Submersible-Water-oil-Pump-P679.aspx
> Also there are more explanations here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1254145/found-some-new-pumps/30
> http://www.vpi.us/cable-glands.html
> There is problem for this pump to run dry but if you have three openings on top of reservoir one can be for level measuring floater,one return and one for cable gland.
> I think nice idea??!


Super cool idea there. I really like it but DAYUMN! 220GPH? Not sure what the D5 is rated at but wow you could use that thing to run a saltwater reef sump or a decent sized freshwater aquarium. LOL.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer flow and temp sensors installed. Tubing runs tidied up a bit.


Are you cooling your CPU and GPU with a single 120 rad threre? If so, how are the temps? Just curious. I am about to reconfigure my loop to 2 seperate loops and run my GPU off a single 140mm rad.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Are you cooling your CPU and GPU with a single 120 rad threre? If so, how are the temps? Just curious. I am about to reconfigure my loop to 2 seperate loops and run my GPU off a single 140mm rad.


If you look closely it looks like there is a 240 in the front but it appears to be passive. I can't see any fans on it.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Are you cooling your CPU and GPU with a single 120 rad threre? If so, how are the temps? Just curious. I am about to reconfigure my loop to 2 seperate loops and run my GPU off a single 140mm rad.


I see a single rad in the back with 1 fan, I see at least a double rad in the front (with the intake fans, so not passive) and possibly a triple rad in the top.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Project Complete........for now:
> Final pics of the Dragon Slayer mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sebar! it looks the SUPER CUTEST smaller builds!


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


get some more RAM in there


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> get some more RAM in there


I would but I feel it's a waste of money, I have yet to see any need to add more RAM with what I do daily on the computer.


----------



## wermad

@kcuestag

How are your gpu temps holding w/ the triple 180?


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys here's a couple of cruddy pics of where the Phantom 820 stands so far. Remember this is a work in progress and has a lot to go before being done.

















And I hope you All Have A Very Merry X-Mas. God Bless You and All Your Loved Ones Also.


----------



## FTWRoguE

Here's mine, first time putting a pc together and water cooling it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





I never knew a fan could look sexy before I seen these lol.


----------



## zubzero689

Why do people need such a big res if you spring a leak it would be empty in know time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> Why do people need such a big res if you spring a leak it would be empty in know time.


The point of a Res is not the amount of coolant but to have a reserve of low temperature coolant on demand to the Pump.

Leaks are bad regardless of the size of the Reservoir.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> Why do people need such a big res if you spring a leak it would be empty in know time.
> 
> 
> 
> The point of a Res is not the amount of coolant but to have a reserve of low temperature coolant on demand to the Pump.
> 
> *Leaks are bad regardless of the size of the Reservoir.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

This.

More fluid means a longer hike to get the fluid warm,it will all go the same temp eventually,the extra volume just prolongs the inevitable.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FTWRoguE*
> 
> Here's mine, first time putting a pc together and water cooling it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never knew a fan could look sexy before I seen these lol.


Nice job. Very clean looking.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> Why do people need such a big res if you spring a leak it would be empty in know time.


Ceadder and Bnegative are both right. But also if you were to spring a leak a smaller reas would be empty even quicker wouldn't it? Lol!!


----------



## wermad

One of my reason for a medium/large res is the fill up process. I want to prevent any starvation of liquid to the pump and having a large loop benefits from having a good supply of liquid to get it going. Other than that, I don't want to be topping off all the time (since my case is huge) so its nice to have a big reserve of liquid.

Mind you this may not apply to all but it works for me


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @kcuestag
> How are your gpu temps holding w/ the triple 180?


Pretty good, the GPU's won't go above 38-42ºC, and the CPU never reaches above ~58-60ºC.


----------



## k.3nny

Did some Frosting edges on the plexi top.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Did some Frosting edges on the plexi top.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's pretty _cool_


----------



## Bart

Very cool! Would look nice in the dark with some lights in it!


----------



## ericld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here are 2 shots I did with soem sun light:
> 
> 
> Pull config is so much better than push, the fans run quieter (Due to less vibration probably) and less dust into the rig/filters.


It would be nice if you could rig a mounting plate in a drive bay for the pump.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ericld*
> 
> It would be nice if you could rig a mounting plate in a drive bay for the pump.


Many people have suggested that, I already had the pump running in the drive bays before, but the long tubing from the bays to the rad was looking very ugly, check here:



I find it to look much better if I place the pump on top of the right fan near the rad.


----------



## ericld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Many people have suggested that, I already had the pump running in the drive bays before, but the long tubing from the bays to the rad was looking very ugly, check here:
> 
> I find it to look much better if I place the pump on top of the right fan near the rad.


I was thinking of the drive bay directly above the HDD/SSD. There the return line would almost be parallel to the GPU lines, then just angle it down to the rad.


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I suspect sleeving in your future


You would be correct. Also switching out the Cathodes with LEDS no more inverters.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Pretty good, the GPU's won't go above 38-42ºC, and the CPU never reaches above ~58-60ºC.


Very nice







. Surround in your future to really push these guys?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Surround in your future to really push these guys?


No, already pushing them at 2560x1440.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> No, already pushing them at 2560x1440.


That's interesting. There's a few guys in the Surround club pushing three Korean 1440s. Some get respectable game play with two 670/680s. I'm sure with a 3rd card it should handle it.

Your loops seems pretty solid and will do great w/ that 3rd card if you decide on it. In a few months, GTX 7xxx will be out and 680 prices will go down







.

Oh, and don't worry about the vram, 2gb is still holding very strong in Surround


----------



## kcuestag

For those of you who live in Europe, what kind of clear tubing would you recommend for 19/13mm? Since Duralene and Primochill Advanced LRT do not sell here yet, what clear tubing plasticizer free do you guys use? I want to try out clear tubing with some Mayhems dye soon, but I don't want to buy tubing which will have plasticizer..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those of you who live in Europe, what kind of clear tubing would you recommend for 19/13mm? Since Duralene and Primochill Advanced LRT do not sell here yet, what clear tubing plasticizer free do you guys use? I want to try out clear tubing with some Mayhems dye soon, but I don't want to buy tubing which will have plasticizer..


Sidewindercomputer.com does ship to Europe (Duralane).


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sidewindercomputer.com does ship to Europe (Duralane).


What is 19/13mm in inches?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What is 19/13mm in inches?


1/2x3/4









edit:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1idx3.html


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 1/2x3/4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1idx3.html


Thanks, might have to order some.

This Durelene tubing is quite cheap! It's like $8 for 3 meters of tubing, thats amazing, here in Europe I'd pay that for just 1 meter of my current tubing.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FTWRoguE*
> 
> Here's mine, first time putting a pc together and water cooling it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never knew a fan could look sexy before I seen these lol.


Seriously look good for a first time! you've done the homework I guess


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks, might have to order some.
> This Durelene tubing is quite cheap! It's like $8 for 3 meters of tubing, thats amazing, here in Europe I'd pay that for just 1 meter of my current tubing.


I purchased 20', ~6m, just to make sure I have plenty for any changes i make. So far its holding very nicely and I can finally see my Mayhems dye through the tube:



I'm using 3/8x5/8 (10mmx16mm).


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I purchased 20', ~6m, just to make sure I have plenty for any changes i make. So far its holding very nicely and I can finally see my Mayhems dye through the tube:
> 
> I'm using 3/8x5/8 (10mmx16mm).


Very nice, I am still not sure what color dye I should choose for my rig, the GPU blocks are copper and a bit silver, although CPU block is Plexi and the motherboard has a lot of black and red scheme, any opinions?


----------



## Kyouki

So I put this at about 90% finished but I felt like sharing today so I posted kinda what you would call a build log here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1341563/build-log-kyouki-the-bunnie-tj10-x79-rive-3930k-gtx-690-custom-loop

here are a few pictures to interest you.









I still need to add UV lights behind the Acrylic panels to light it up from behind. and dye the Coolant a little bit more green. Other then that I am very happy for my first real Water cooled loop coming from a H100.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Very nice, I am still not sure what color dye I should choose for my rig, the GPU blocks are copper and a bit silver, although CPU block is Plexi and the motherboard has a lot of black and red scheme, any opinions?


Orange would me your tube pop. I've been itching to do orange for some time. You can play it safe and go w/ red to match your RIVE. Pastel white would make it a very nice contrast to your black case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> So I put this at about 90% finished but I felt like sharing today so I posted kinda what you would call a build log here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1341563/build-log-kyouki-the-bunnie-tj10-x79-rive-3930k-gtx-690-custom-loop
> here are a few pictures to interest you.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to add UV lights behind the Acrylic panels to light it up from behind. and dye the Coolant a little bit more green. Other then that I am very happy for my first real Water cooled loop coming from a H100.


Awesome build mate! Though, that gpu is missing out of all the water cooling fun









Nice idea to cover up the RIVE's unused pcie slots w/ green covers


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> So I put this at about 90% finished but I felt like sharing today so I posted kinda what you would call a build log here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1341563/build-log-kyouki-the-bunnie-tj10-x79-rive-3930k-gtx-690-custom-loop
> here are a few pictures to interest you.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to add UV lights behind the Acrylic panels to light it up from behind. and dye the Coolant a little bit more green. Other then that I am very happy for my first real Water cooled loop coming from a H100.


That looks great! All you need now is to buy a GPU waterblock for that GTX690.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Orange would me your tube pop. I've been itching to do orange for some time. You can play it safe and go w/ red to match your RIVE. Pastel white would make it a very nice contrast to your black case.


Reason I do not consider Mayhems Pastel at all is because I want the best temperatures possible, so distilled water + mayhems dye is the best solution.

Out of those, I think I'll go with red.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Reason I do not consider Mayhems Pastel at all is because I want the best temperatures possible, so distilled water + mayhems dye is the best solution.
> Out of those, I think I'll go with red.


Deep Red


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That looks great! All you need now is to buy a GPU waterblock for that GTX690.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome build mate! Though, that gpu is missing out of all the water cooling fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice idea to cover up the RIVE's unused pcie slots w/ green covers


I feel you I was tempted, but one of the reasons I love the GTX690 and bought it was for it custom Fan shroud. To me it just looks sexy and matches the Corsair Platinum Ram, and well It idles are 31c and under games loads like in LOL it gets in the 45/50c and Crysis with texture mods I get into 65/75c I feel that Good. But I see a waterblock in future maybe..


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Deep Red


That looks exactly how I want it!!

I was looking at the Candy Red and it was making me very dissapointed as it looked more like orange!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> I feel you I was tempted, but one of the reasons I love the GTX690 and bought it was for it custom Fan shroud. To me it just looks sexy and matches the Corsair Platinum Ram, and well It idles are 31c and under games loads like in LOL it gets in the 45/50c and Crysis with texture mods I get into 65/75c I feel that Good. But I see a waterblock in future maybe..


You will, for sure.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> I feel you I was tempted, but one of the reasons I love the GTX690 and bought it was for it custom Fan shroud. To me it just looks sexy and matches the Corsair Platinum Ram, and well It idles are 31c and under games loads like in LOL it gets in the 45/50c and Crysis with texture mods I get into 65/75c I feel that Good. But I see a waterblock in future maybe..


----------



## PCModderMike

The Switch has been parted out, all the water cooling parts sold....wanted to share it's final pics. That was my last water cooled build for a long time, going to chill out. But...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The Switch has been parted out, all the water cooling parts sold....wanted to share it's final pics. That was my last water cooled build for a long time, going to chill out. But...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: *snip*


I'm sure you'll be back soon. We'll be waiting for you mate









Uber build btw. Sad to see it go


----------



## kcuestag

http://www.overclock.net/t/1218288/please-contribute-ocn-wc-tubing-database/130#post_18896191

Might not buy Durelene after reading the last few comments about Durelene, it seems those guys do have some plasticizer and even yellowish color after time, maybe Primochill Advanced LRT instead?

This is driving me nuts.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1218288/please-contribute-ocn-wc-tubing-database/130#post_18896191
> Might not buy Durelene after reading the last few comments about Durelene, it seems those guys do have some plasticizer and even yellowish color after time, maybe Primochill Advanced LRT instead?
> This is driving me nuts.


Its a mixed bag. Right now its one of the few clear that actually holds and in some cases doesn't plasticize. Some have actually plasticized in a short time, while most cases have lasted a while. Since I've seen its the one with not too many complaints, i got it. Its holding for two weeks in my build.

Other then that, Primochill Advance should be the savior in this dilemma. Makes you wonder if Tyler Industries "intentionally" sabotage their LRT to force customers to buy the more expensive Advance (<-rant, pissed my Primochill a year ago held, and this year, it craps out right away).

edit: you can always wait until Primochill Adv. becomes available in Europe soon.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm sure you'll be back soon. We'll be waiting for you mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uber build btw. Sad to see it go


Thank you sir 







I'll just follow your builds to get my fix from now on.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *Its a mixed bag*. Right now its one of the few clear that actually holds and in some cases doesn't plasticize. Some have actually plasticized in a short time, while most cases have lasted a while. Since I've seen its the one with not too many complaints, i got it. Its holding for two weeks in my build.
> Other then that, Primochill Advance should be the savior in this dilemma. Makes you wonder if Tyler Industries "intentionally" sabotage their LRT to force customers to buy the more expensive Advance (<-rant, pissed my Primochill a year ago held, and this year, it craps out right away).
> edit: you can always wait until Primochill Adv. becomes available in Europe soon.


Durelene has been highly praised by most....but it really is hit or miss I think. I guess mine was one of the few batches that did develop plasticizer....loop was only up and running for a few weeks too.


----------



## kcuestag

Durelene it is then.









Can't wait to try it out with some Mayhems Deep Red dye, never had clear tubing, really excited to see the red dye specially on my EK Supreme HF Plexi block.


----------



## DragonCypher

Has anyone else attempted to watercool 660ti's with a full cover yet?

I just got in my XSPC Razor 670 blocks to go with Palit 660ti Jetstreams, which according to both ek coolingconfigurator and performance-pcs fits fine.
The PCB layout is the same, so the holes line up, but the DVI port is slightly to the side of where it is on the 670, so the block hits it.

It's not possible to move the DVI port as far as I'm aware, but it SHOULD be possible to just cut off that side of the waterblock with a dremel, as its just acrylic, no copper or water flow at that end.
I'd rather not do that.. but it's looking like the only option if I can't get them exchanged.. There's also no guarantee that another brand would fit until someone tries it.

Quick photoshop of the problem:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Durelene it is then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to try it out with some Mayhems Deep Red dye, never had clear tubing, really excited to see the red dye specially on my EK Supreme HF Plexi block.


Here's one of my old builds using "blood red":



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*
> 
> Has anyone else attempted to watercool 660ti's with a full cover yet?
> I just got in my XSPC Razor 670 blocks to go with Palit 660ti Jetstreams, which according to both ek coolingconfigurator and performance-pcs fits fine.
> The PCB layout is the same, so the holes line up, but the DVI port is slightly to the side of where it is on the 670, so the block hits it.
> It's not possible to move the DVI port as far as I'm aware, but it SHOULD be possible to just cut off that side of the waterblock with a dremel, as its just acrylic, no copper or water flow at that end.
> I'd rather not do that.. but it's looking like the only option if I can't get them exchanged.. There's also no guarantee that another brand would fit until someone tries it.
> Quick photoshop of the problem:


Contact Palit, xspc, and keep ppcs.com in the loop (no pun intended







). If there's no solution and you want to keep it (and are fine w/ killing your block's warranty), then bust out the dremel









Good luck and let us know what you find out









.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Here's one of my old builds using "blood red":
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Is that Mayhems dye as well? Looks nice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is that Mayhems dye as well? Looks nice.


Its Primochill "Blood Red" dye bombs. Terrible, terrible stuff. Looks good but separates immediately and creates a lot of gunk. The Mayhems is far superior and should look some what similar if not better. Its just an idea on how it would look like. That's a Supreme HF w/ the AMD bracket


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*
> 
> Has anyone else attempted to watercool 660ti's with a full cover yet?
> I just got in my XSPC Razor 670 blocks to go with Palit 660ti Jetstreams, which according to both ek coolingconfigurator and performance-pcs fits fine.
> The PCB layout is the same, so the holes line up, but the DVI port is slightly to the side of where it is on the 670, so the block hits it.
> It's not possible to move the DVI port as far as I'm aware, but it SHOULD be possible to just cut off that side of the waterblock with a dremel, as its just acrylic, no copper or water flow at that end.
> I'd rather not do that.. but it's looking like the only option if I can't get them exchanged.. There's also no guarantee that another brand would fit until someone tries it.
> Quick photoshop of the problem:


have you checked to see if you can just remove the DVI shielding the pins to see if it gives you a little bit of room. I am not sure with out seeing it in person but this might be another options.


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its Primochill "Blood Red" dye bombs. Terrible, terrible stuff. Looks good but separates immediately and creates a lot of gunk.:


i had the primochill uv blue in my loop, great disappointment. nothing but gunk, tube fogging to where i bought soft pipe cleaners, barely any uv effect and am soon going to have koolance fluorescent uv red. red will match my build anyway. here's the disappointment... the tubing is supposed to be clear.


----------



## DragonCypher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> have you checked to see if you can just remove the DVI shielding the pins to see if it gives you a little bit of room. I am not sure with out seeing it in person but this might be another options.


I had a look into this.. but the acrylic of the block goes right up to the back of the DVI's.. there's no way to move them out of the way even without the shielding.
As you can see here they've actually been soldered in a different position to the 670 and there is no room to move with the block installed on a 670 either.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*
> 
> I had a look into this.. but the acrylic of the block goes right up to the back of the DVI's.. there's no way to move them out of the way even without the shielding.
> As you can see here they've actually been soldered in a different position to the 670 and there is no room to move with the block installed on a 670 either.


I see, man that crazy might just have to dermal if you want to keep it.


----------



## kwstag

*Will be posting my build this week hopefully. This is what I chose, I have all the parts. This is not my fist computer build but my first watercooling build (custom loop that is)

Case: Corsair 800D
MOBO: ASUS MAXIMUS V EXTREME
CPU: i7 3770K
GPU; EVGA GTX 670 FTW
RAM: DOMINATOR GT 16 GB, 2000MHZ
SSD: 256 GB SAMSUNG 840 PRO
HDD: SEAGATE 7200 RPM 500GB
OPTICAL DRIVE: 14X LG BLUE RAY BURNER
CCFL/LED BLUE AND WHITE LIGHTING
3 X 140MM SHARK BLACK/WHITE EDITION FANS*
LCD FAN CONTROLLER (I forget brand/Model)
USB 3.0 Header for Mobo to not route cables out the back BS
SATA 6Gbps Backplane Connector Chip upgrade

Im sure im missing something...

Watercooling Components:

Pump: D5 PWM, Custom Top/Kit $200
Reservior: Liquid FusionX 250Mm Blue
Tubing: Primochill 1/2 x 3/4 ADVANCED Pro LRT
Radiator: XSPC RX360
Fans for Radiator: Vortex Cougars (3) - 2 Black, 1 Orange)
Fittings: Bitspower Compression Fittings
Waterblocks: XSPC Raystorm Black Edition
MOBO Waterblock: EK Full (I know, not needed, running a 2nd loop for mobo/gpu. Because I can afford to, please no negativeness.
GPU Waterblock: Heatkiller or EK, Soon to come. Doing 2nd loop after 1st.


----------



## kwstag

Double post, Sorry.

Does that look good though?? ^^^^^^^^


----------



## teamrushpntball

Seems decent, my main recommendation would be making sure all your parts match aesthetically.


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> So I put this at about 90% finished but I felt like sharing today so I posted kinda what you would call a build log here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1341563/build-log-kyouki-the-bunnie-tj10-x79-rive-3930k-gtx-690-custom-loop
> here are a few pictures to interest you.
> -Snip-
> I still need to add UV lights behind the Acrylic panels to light it up from behind. and dye the Coolant a little bit more green. Other then that I am very happy for my first real Water cooled loop coming from a H100.


What clocks and temps with your Raystorm. I love mine.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velcrowchickensoup*
> 
> What clocks and temps with your Raystorm. I love mine.


Right now I have my 3930k at 4.5Ghz stable at 1.38v or around there. My temps at idle using Asus monitor are 28c and in games like League of Legends goes up to 32c, Crysis goes up to 38/40c. But when I check my HWMonitor just add 7c to 10c to them numbers. I don't know witch monitor is more accurate.


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Right now I have my 3930k at 4.5Ghz stable at 1.38v or around there. My temps at idle using Asus monitor are 28c and in games like League of Legends goes up to 32c, Crysis goes up to 38/40c. But when I check my HWMonitor just add 7c to 10c to them numbers. I don't know witch monitor is more accurate.


Throw core temp into the mix see what is closest. Ive noticed Asus AI Suite is always a little on the cool side.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velcrowchickensoup*
> 
> Throw core temp into the mix see what is closest. Ive noticed Asus AI Suite is always a little on the cool side.


On coretemps while at idle Asus was at 30c and coretemps at 41c so an 11 difference and CPUID HWMonitor was at 41c as well.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Anyone know of a dual DDC top that has the outlet on the narrow side of the top? Everyone I see has the outlet on the wider side and I don't have room to turn it sideways in the base of my TJ07. And really rather not have the pumps directly pushing into a 90* fitting immediately.

Suppose I could just have 2 separate tops and fittings but would really rather not.



Looking for a top that outlets on the narrow side.


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> On coretemps while at idle Asus was at 30c and coretemps at 41c so an 11 difference and CPUID HWMonitor was at 41c as well.


Seems about right, load temps are what really matter though. Shouldn't see it get too warm at all.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*
> 
> I had a look into this.. but the acrylic of the block goes right up to the back of the DVI's.. there's no way to move them out of the way even without the shielding.
> As you can see here they've actually been soldered in a different position to the 670 and there is no room to move with the block installed on a 670 either.


the font choice here is just...









and I'm thinking of buying a Phobya Balancer 250 Silver Nickel reservoir




is it any good?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its a mixed bag. Right now its one of the few clear that actually holds and in some cases doesn't plasticize. Some have actually plasticized in a short time, while most cases have lasted a while. Since I've seen its the one with not too many complaints, i got it. Its holding for two weeks in my build.
> Other then that, Primochill Advance should be the savior in this dilemma. Makes you wonder if Tyler Industries "intentionally" sabotage their LRT to *force customers to buy the more expensive Advance* (<-rant, pissed my Primochill a year ago held, and this year, it craps out right away).
> edit: you can always wait until Primochill Adv. becomes available in Europe soon.


Primochill Primoflex LRT Pro went for $24.99, I paid exactly the same for the Advanced.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> the font choice here is just...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I'm thinking of buying a Phobya Balancer 250 Silver Nickel reservoir
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it any good?


I like mine. I have led's in three ports and I/O on the side ports.
If you have a lot of pump then the air bubbles tend to get sucked back into the outlet when filling/bleeding unless you the turn the pump down. Or you could plumb the return line to the top I guess.
But normal operation is fine and I like the look.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Primochill Primoflex LRT Pro went for $24.99, I paid exactly the same for the Advanced.


this lol


----------



## Triniboi82

Merry Xmas everyone

My Xmas gift


----------



## kcuestag

That looks sick! Enjoy it!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Anyone know of a dual DDC top that has the outlet on the narrow side of the top? Everyone I see has the outlet on the wider side and I don't have room to turn it sideways in the base of my TJ07. And really rather not have the pumps directly pushing into a 90* fitting immediately.
> 
> Suppose I could just have 2 separate tops and fittings but would really rather not.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for a top that outlets on the narrow side.


That would be a no. I have the EK version and it's along the wide side. I am running Dual DDC-1T with FC block and CPU block with 360 and it's more than powerful enough to run single pump pushing the loop. I have a T block immediately after the outlet with drain hose pulling the sharp 90 and a 45 directly in line with the outlet. I could've run a 90 w/o issue there too. Aesthetically speaking it really isn't all that noticeable imho.

Anything that could slow the flow of my single pump would get squashed the moment I charged up pump 2. Cant even say that it depends on what pump you're running since I'm running the minimum rated DDC.









~Ceadder


----------



## bundymania

2006


----------



## itz.clint

Nice. Pitty I bought the new uv blue advanced tubing already makes me want to go back to clear with some dyes


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itz.clint*
> 
> Nice. Pitty I bought the new uv blue advanced tubing already makes me want to go back to clear with some dyes


that bad?


----------



## RKTGX95

i believe many around here are (VERY) excited for this:


Spoiler: C-C-C-CARBON???





*Clicky Thingy*


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Merry Xmas everyone
> My Xmas gift
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude, Amazingly!

Same thing to you, Hopefully you have a blast christmas time with this RIG.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Sebar! it looks the SUPER CUTEST smaller builds!


Thanks bud. This was a fun build and turned out looking great.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i believe many around here are (VERY) excited for this:
> 
> *Clicky Thingy*


I would like to see an unboxing of that ;-)

But seriously those carbon monsoons look pretty good, does anyone know if its real carbon fiber?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I would like to see an unboxing of that ;-)
> But seriously those carbon monsoons look pretty good, does anyone know if its real carbon fiber?


i agree, especially the black fittings with the red carbon and the vice-versa.

btw, i had just the Best (worst) idea for a trademark thing for water coolers... (it involves a chain, a clean neck and...







)


----------



## bundymania




----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i believe many around here are (VERY) excited for this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: C-C-C-CARBON???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Clicky Thingy*


I have to say that while the marketing is nice I personally don't like them. I feel the carbon fiber thing has now been way over done in the computer world. I original fittings that show the tubing through them. As far as being a limited run kind of thing I really hope these fittings don't take over the originals. I may be alone in this but oh well.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Final photo sneak peak of my Steampunk'd TJ11.


looks amazingly smexxy!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Best $10 i ever spent


This! You guys can find this @ local Lowes, Home depot, hardware shop..







*G'Luck!*


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I like mine. I have led's in three ports and I/O on the side ports.
> If you have a lot of pump then the air bubbles tend to get sucked back into the outlet when filling/bleeding unless you the turn the pump down. Or you could plumb the return line to the top I guess.
> But normal operation is fine and I like the look.


Any chance of a photo of your Phobya Balancer? I plan to have one but I am having a hard job finding shots of them installed. I can see a bit of it in your rig photo.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Are you cooling your CPU and GPU with a single 120 rad threre? If so, how are the temps? Just curious. I am about to reconfigure my loop to 2 seperate loops and run my GPU off a single 140mm rad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> If you look closely it looks like there is a 240 in the front but it appears to be passive. I can't see any fans on it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I see a single rad in the back with 1 fan, I see at least a double rad in the front (with the intake fans, so not passive) and possibly a triple rad in the top.


Oh no way, the guys were right, Iv'e got 720mm of rad jammed into there. 360 on top 120 at the back and 240 in the front. you can't see the fans on the 240 because they are under the front panel of the Raider.

I wouldn't personally put a GPU on a 120 rad by itself let alone with anything else


----------



## Bart

I THIRD THAT TUBE CUTTER!!!







Paid $7.99 for mine at Princess Auto, works amazingly well.


----------



## kcuestag

I think I have to forget Durelene tubing, shipping to Spain would cost me over $40 for 10 feet of tubing, that's way too much for just the tubing.









Might have to wait for Durelene or Primochill Advanced LRT to be available in Europe, and meanwhile buy some other clear tubing like Masterkleer PVC.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> Why do people need such a big res if you spring a leak it would be empty in know time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The point of a Res is not the amount of coolant but to have a reserve of low temperature coolant on demand to the Pump.
> Leaks are bad regardless of the size of the Reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> More fluid means a longer hike to get the fluid warm,it will all go the same temp eventually,the extra volume just prolongs the inevitable.


I'm with Zubzero ... big reservoirs might look good to some but the idea that they help at all is a bit misleading.
The water running through your loop should be moving so fast that the water in the reservoir is exactly the same temperature as the rest of the loop. It certainly doesn't hold a volume of cool water for pump.
The extra volume of water would take longer to heat up if no cooling effect was being created by the radiators but that is their job. A loop with a larger volume of water might take a little longer to reach the balancing point of heating from components vs cooling provided by rads but it would only be in the order of minutes. When your computer is on for hours it makes no difference at all.
In my experience big reservoirs just provide more water to spill if you have any problems and for times when you are reassembling the loop and find a tiny leak its just more water you have to take out again before you can fix the problem.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Primochill Primoflex LRT Pro went for $24.99, I paid exactly the same for the Advanced.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> this lol
Click to expand...

You guys don't seem to know how to shop for the best price. I paid $15 each for my first rolls of primochill tube in 2010 from moddersmart.com and also from amazon.com







. Well, I guess some ppl just like to pay more. You guys probably frequent frozencpu.com







(lol)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I think I have to forget Durelene tubing, shipping to Spain would cost me over $40 for 10 feet of tubing, that's way too much for just the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might have to wait for Durelene or Primochill Advanced LRT to be available in Europe, and meanwhile buy some other clear tubing like Masterkleer PVC.


I had a feeling it would be crazy high to ship. I think Mike from Mayhems said they use MasterKleer.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> Why do people need such a big res if you spring a leak it would be empty in know time.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The point of a Res is not the amount of coolant but to have a reserve of low temperature coolant on demand to the Pump.
> Leaks are bad regardless of the size of the Reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> More fluid means a longer hike to get the fluid warm,it will all go the same temp eventually,the extra volume just prolongs the inevitable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm with Zubzero ... big reservoirs might look good to some but the idea that they help at all is a bit misleading.
> The water running through your loop should be moving so fast that the water in the reservoir is exactly the same temperature as the rest of the loop. It certainly doesn't hold a volume of cool water for pump.
> The extra volume of water would take longer to heat up if no cooling effect was being created by the radiators but that is their job. A loop with a larger volume of water might take a little longer to reach the balancing point of heating from components vs cooling provided by rads but it would only be in the order of minutes. When your computer is on for hours it makes no difference at all.
> In my experience big reservoirs just provide more water to spill if you have any problems and for times when you are reassembling the loop and find a tiny leak its just more water you have to take out again before you can fix the problem.
Click to expand...

How is that any different to what I said?
Big res are cool,that's why I use them.

Not to mention they are much easier for fill and bleeding.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How is that any different to what I said?
> *Big res are cool,that's why I use them.
> Not to mention they are much easier for fill and bleeding.*


This, ftw! Nuff said


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I like my res like my women,long with good looks and 1/4 threads.


----------



## wermad

I think the larger volume of water in the tube helps control the vortex too. with little water/liquid, its like turning on a blender w/ a bit of mix; its gonna fly if you don't put the top on!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> My new project is almost over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats SICKO!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I picked mine up on sale at Lowes for $5.99
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (tube cutter that is... not getting in to kitchen knives because
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and B-Neg will scold me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> I have to say that although I didn't have it for my first tubing (Primochill... nuff said) when I replaced everything (with different CRAP but still better than PC) I wouldn't go back to the razor blade method ever again. Without a doubt the best thing with the tube cutters is "run trimming" with absolute ease. Before if I misjudged a run (and I usually do intentionally on the long side) I'd have to pull it back off the first fitting, trim the extraneous amount, remount and then test strain, etc. Now I can simply trim off the extra if necessary without even removing the tubing from the case and without putting any strain on the initial fitting or block it's attached to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me that's a savings of at least 10 minutes... which in my book is worth way more than $6.


Awesome! rep+

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Jumping into watercooling for some reason. Just flushed my rad with a Wix fuel filter (#33003). Worked real well deffinately worth the $5 to not spend 30 mins shacking my rad over the sink. Now I'm looking for a 5870 water block. Anyone get one laying around?


Evil Genius!


----------



## Chiraq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I think I have to forget Durelene tubing, shipping to Spain would cost me over $40 for 10 feet of tubing, that's way too much for just the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might have to wait for Durelene or Primochill Advanced LRT to be available in Europe, and meanwhile buy some other clear tubing like Masterkleer PVC.


Durelene, Masterkleer and Vincon is the same tubing from the same manufacturer, Saint Gobain. You can get it in Europe no probs!

Edit* Good choice too. I've just been through the Tygon plasticizer HELL....


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I think I have to forget Durelene tubing, shipping to Spain would cost me over $40 for 10 feet of tubing, that's way too much for just the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might have to wait for Durelene or Primochill Advanced LRT to be available in Europe, and meanwhile buy some other clear tubing like Masterkleer PVC.


There's always the trip down to your local hardware store...


----------



## wermad

From personal experience, the stuff at the local hardware stores (US, Home Depot), tends to be stiff and will plasticize easily. I asked one of the employees and they said its just the way it is and its really meant for utility not show. Maybe there's something different in the hardware stores of Europe


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like my res like my women,long with good looks and 1/4 threads.


I just asked my GF if she came with 1/4 threads...

...she looked at me with that "you're nuts" look and said she comes with whatever size fitting I came equipped with. Definitely larger than 1/4 thread.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Django64

Very beautiful setup you got there


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I just asked my GF if she came with 1/4 threads...
> ...she looked at me with that "you're nuts" look and said she comes with whatever size fitting I came equipped with. Definitely larger than 1/4 thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I just asked my GF if she came with 1/4 threads...
> ...she looked at me with that "you're nuts" look and said she comes with whatever size fitting I came equipped with. Definitely larger than 1/4 thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


the better question yet was, did you have to re-tap it? or did it come flush.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I just asked my GF if she came with 1/4 threads...
> ...she looked at me with that "you're nuts" look and said she comes with whatever size fitting I came equipped with. Definitely larger than 1/4 thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Pretty sure thats the best quote I've seen so far for me


----------



## Rivis

Hi, please sign me in








Here´s my rig with a Corsair H80i. I got it when i switched cases, i was using a Corsair H100 with the CM Sniper with the radiator installed on the top of the case but it wouldn´t fit in the Raven RV02. Anyway, temps are about the same.
I'm giving serious thought to take the next step and install a Xspc Raystorm D5 Ex240 kit but because of the double radiator i would have to do what i didn´t want to, remove the cases bottom fans (2 at least)









Some pics:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/826/sam1931o.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/202/sam1932b.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/547/sam1942.jpg/


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wow Some really amazing builds here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mine, not a custom loop but looks like build still qualifies to be posted here? Just got an H60 2013 model, I really like smooth thicker tubing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ekg84 ..







*DOPE* ....

Super CLEANEST RIG, one of those rigs I've ever seen! Mofo... your rig is about gonna choking me!

Hopefully your rig will be in PC Magazine, SOMEDAY!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This my work in progress, you can see the build log over at OCAU. 2nd EVGA GTX 680 Classified turns up this week!
> HWLabs Black Ice GTX 560 mounted 100% inside an 800D, koolance PMP-500 with their bare type 30w controller. EVGA blocks for the soon to be 2x GPU's. EK supremacy water block for CPU, bitspower 150 res. I have a Black Ice 140mm SR1 rad I want to fit in somewhere soon too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


SM3XXY RIG!


----------



## kyismaster

i like how he removed the HDD sticker lol

I would do that, but too bad I like my warranties.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Havnt posted here in abit so heres some shots of my latest build. More pics in my build log in my sig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoy


Lovely RIG...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've been done with this build for a little while now, but I figured I would post the final pictures of how it turned out. I switched the tubing to some primoflex advanced lrt which is supposed to not have any plasticizer issues. Also i finally squeezed the reservoir into the build. There was just barely enough room for it, and it was difficult to fill, but it bleed very quickly and I'm happy with the look of it. I had just topped off the res which is why the tube above it didn't have any coolant in it when I took the pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


SUPER CUTEST!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder how many itx boards I could fit in my phantom 820 stretched case build . . . .
> Still waiting on the next case to scarf the last chassis parts from, and add the last 40mm or so of stretch.
> It'll have an 840 up top and on the bottom from pairs of joined copper finned Airplex modularity 420's
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


CRAZIE!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerelm*
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kerelm/8281014532/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 002 by Kerelm, on Flickr
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kerelm/8281014194/
> 006 by Kerelm, on Flickr
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kerelm/8281014876/
> 009 by Kerelm, on Flickr
> Just got my loop up and running a couple days ago, picked up the new SP120 fans today and fitted them. Next up is 7900 series card and waterblock.
> everything currently on stock clocks, will be upping the ghz soon


a beautiful RIG you got there!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrael*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got the H100 in my new rig. Hopefully that qualifies me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with lighting:


Awesome!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> mind the speed bumps/humps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VS


RP-402X2 WINNER!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahweng38*
> 
> Hi Guys!
> Pls welcome me and vote me too, thx~!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Smexy white rig
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> HI
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ok go for a shinobi XL windows white with blue mesh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


the Most Clean Rig!


----------



## MetallicAcid

Here I am cheating with an H80 from Corsair... Although I have started collection watercooling parts, and hope to have the project completed in February


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Any chance of a photo of your Phobya Balancer? I plan to have one but I am having a hard job finding shots of them installed. I can see a bit of it in your rig photo.


Starting on page one of the build log in my sig.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Starting on page one of the build log in my sig.


gonna check that out, i'm also thinking about buying that res

edit:// that looks really great! Is that the 250mm version? It looks so tall, great value for money I guess.


----------



## JaRi

in the new caselab ST10 wouldn't a 250mm res look a bit small ?
im thinking about getting the 400mm ress/pump combo from bitspower but im not sure it will fit with a 80mm rad in top


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> *i like how he removed the HDD sticker* lol
> I would do that, but too bad I like my warranties.


LMAO as hell!!!!


----------



## kcuestag

Hey guys,

I have a question regarding water cooling 2x GPU's. Right now I'm running them with just 1 tube, so I think this is called series, or the other way around. XD



Should I add a 2nd tubing between the cards on the other threads? I heard this makes the pump have less restriction and also make the GPU's run at the same temperature as the water travels through both cards at the same time, right now my 2nd GPU is ~3ºC hotter in games.

Should I bother adding that extra tubing in those threads?


----------



## JaRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have a question regarding water cooling 2x GPU's. Right now I'm running them with just 1 tube, so I think this is called series, or the other way around. XD
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I add a 2nd tubing between the cards on the other threads? I heard this makes the pump have less restriction and also make the GPU's run at the same temperature as the water travels through both cards at the same time, right now my 2nd GPU is ~3ºC hotter in games.
> Should I bother adding that extra tubing in those threads?


i wouldn't bother now you have the system running(espeacially since you have the D5, thats a very good pump







), but next time you did some changes or a new build i'd do it with 2 tubes in parallel


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have a question regarding water cooling 2x GPU's. Right now I'm running them with just 1 tube, so I think this is called series, or the other way around. XD
> 
> Should I add a 2nd tubing between the cards on the other threads? I heard this makes the pump have less restriction and also make the GPU's run at the same temperature as the water travels through both cards at the same time, right now my 2nd GPU is ~3ºC hotter in games.
> Should I bother adding that extra tubing in those threads?


I prefer parallel myself - but I definitely wouldn't drain your loop just to redo the GPUs - wait until there is something more significant requiring it (like adding a third GPU, or adding another rad, etc.) and just make the change then. I can attest to getting plenty of flow through 2 GPUs - but the amount of difference will depend mostly on how restrictive the other components are in your system.

I don't know how restrictive your EK Supreme HF Plexi is actually - I'm sure it's good, but don't know if it's better or worse than your GPU blocks. No matter what you do you can't flow better than your most restrictive component in the loop (or at least not in a single loop configuration).


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclogenisis*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just Finished my new build. Water cooled GTX 690 and 3770k at 4.8ghz. Also running 6x Scythe Gentle Tycoons. No 90 Degree angles used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


a Neat Night RIG
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*


SMEXY RIG!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> dusted out my Narada build today, figured i'd take some pics outside in the light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer flow and temp sensors installed. Tubing runs tidied up a bit.


damn!!!! ur rig is not only blacked out, but its MURDERED OUT !


----------



## kcuestag

What are the chances of having a leak between the cards? The compression fitting "tap" didn't fit so I just used zip ties for that part, will it be OK? Never run a WC Loop with zip ties before.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 
> What are the chances of having a leak between the cards? The compression fitting "tap" didn't fit so I just used zip ties for that part, will it be OK? Never run a WC Loop with zip ties before.


I would do a 5 hours leak test for that small modification.

If you used pliers to tighten the zip tie, you are fine. Zip ties are a good and cheap way to secure the tubing onto barbs, if tighten correctly.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 
> What are the chances of having a leak between the cards? The compression fitting "tap" didn't fit so I just used zip ties for that part, will it be OK? Never run a WC Loop with zip ties before.


Were your fittings too thick to attach the compressions? Sorry poor eyesight coupled with not quite understanding you, but that's what I think it looks like.

If that's the case I'd recommend using an actual (Non-compression) barb over just the barb portion of the compression fitting. The barbs on compression fittings are lacking on their own, a regular barb will be a bit longer and have more "grip" on the tubing.


----------



## kcuestag

Seeing how the GPU's run at the same temperature as before, I'm going to drain the loop and just go the old way:

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k491/kcuestag/DSC_0580.jpg


----------



## Saurian

The water cooling parts are arriving today; I can barely contain my excitement! About to take the plunge - wish me luck. I'll see if I can get a build log going of this new computer.


Spoiler: How I feel right now:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Gwad, seeing all these sexy builds is making me more impatient in putting mine back together!, my motherboard arrives on friday so i can finally put it back together!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> The water cooling parts are arriving today; I can barely contain my excitement! About to take the plunge - wish me luck. I'll see if I can get a build log going of this new computer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How I feel right now:


This is me two. I'm waiting for a waterblock for my gpu that the post office has tried delivering to my place like 3 times already. Then after the first of the month I get to order $100 of fitting and misc parts.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> This is me two. I'm waiting for a waterblock for my gpu that the post office has tried delivering to my place like 3 times already. Then after the first of the month I get to order $100 of fitting and misc parts.


If your like me $100 in fittings and misc parts quickly becomes $200. Or more.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> If your like me $100 in fittings and misc parts quickly becomes $200. Or more.


This is me for sure. I look at my past orders from almost two years ago and I'm not using 75 percent of the items now. I tend to get carried away with all the nice shiny little parts


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> This is me for sure. I look at my past orders from almost two years ago and I'm not using 75 percent of the items now. I tend to get carried away with all the nice shiny little parts


I understand, I have a spare 1155 Raystorm block, Black Ice 360 rad, etc etc just sitting around and I only built my first PC 5 months ago. Now I'm thinking about replacing all my Enzotech fittings with those awesome looking Alphacool copper fittings.


----------



## LiquidHaus

yeah im waiting on a shipment as well! made the order just a tad too late for it to get here before xmas, so hopefully i'll get it on the 29th so i can finish my new build


----------



## wermad

Late x-mas gift


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Late x-mas gift


Oh cool you got a ST30? Will you have room for it in your case Wermad?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Oh cool you got a ST30? Will you have room for it in your case Wermad?


ST86 aka Monsta









Yes, yes I do have plenty of space







. I'm actually scheming to upgrade to three Monsta 480s. Just gotta wait for some funds


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ST86 aka Monsta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, yes I do have plenty of space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm actually scheming to upgrade to three Monsta 480s. Just gotta wait for some funds


Lol I know, just teasing you a bit. Damn sarcasm and the internet conundrum again.


----------



## joejoe69

Everything in here...

















...will go from in here...

























...to that below (in black).









I just checked USPS tracking that my 420 rad and a bunch of other FrozenCPU goodies are arriving today. Gotta love Christmas...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Lol I know, just teasing you a bit. Damn sarcasm and the internet conundrum again.


lol, no worries, i knew you weren't being serious









Hmmmmm....does alphacool really call their Monstas ST80 (or ST86)??? They should


----------



## teamrushpntball

From what I've noticed they don't even list the thickness. Just label it Monsta. Shame they don't make a 140mm size Monsta, think I'm going to be relegated to a a mere UT60 140mm


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> From what I've noticed they don't even list the thickness. Just label it Monsta. Shame they don't make a 140mm size Monsta, think I'm going to be relegated to a a mere UT60 140mm


ppcs.com does have the specs:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Technical specifications:
> 
> Material internal: Mostly copper
> Material casing: Side panels steel, threads brass, copper chambers
> Colour: Black
> Dimensions (LxWxH): 400 x 124 x 86 mm
> Connection threads: 6x1/4"
> Outlet Connection threads: 1x1/4"
> Mounting thread size: M3
> Pressure tested: 1.5bar






I've been wondering why they dont do Monsta 140s too







. I would have love to have stuffed a few 420 Monstas in my old Elysium case.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ppcs.com does have the specs:
> I've been wondering why they dont do Monsta 140s too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would have love to have stuffed a few 420 Monstas in my old Elysium case.


Oh, sorry I meant as far as the product heading. Yeah PPC's does a respectable job listing product details.

Hopefully I'm right in my assumption that a 140mm UT60 will still outperform the 120mm Monsta. I'll even have space to go - GT15 -> Feser Shroud -> 120mmto140mm Shroud -> UT60 140mm _> 120mmto140mm Shroud -> GT15. That will be a beastly setup passing through my unused drive bays. 168mm of cooling thickness put to use!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> The water cooling parts are arriving today; I can barely contain my excitement! About to take the plunge - wish me luck. I'll see if I can get a build log going of this new computer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How I feel right now:


Idn't that the kid that tried to stuff his remote control up his own butt when he found out that his mom canceled his WoW account?

Freakin hilarious stuff.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

in terms of volume:

UT60-420: 140 x 420 x 60 = 3.528.000
Monsta-360: 120 x 360 x 86 = 3.672.000

They're very close.

Just for kicks:
The Monsta-480: 120 x 480 x 86 = 4.953.600


----------



## siffonen

Cleaned my loop, and added a mayhems pastel ice white. Didnt go as i planned, had one leak and had to change one tubes location on gpu. Probably getting a Corsair 800D case, so i can build a new loop soon


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Late x-mas gift


YES!!! More rad, more rad, more rad. Ty.

Sorry for the no spoiler. On the phone.


----------



## kyismaster

I present to you, cell phone teaser


----------



## animal0307

Just how I like my GPU blocks, with a squeeze of lemon. One more piece done. In theory I have a full loop and can setup up right now but I need a few more things first.


----------



## kcuestag

I'm back to my old GPU config:



Wether on series or paralel it didn't make a difference so I'll just keep it simple.


----------



## Fonne

Frozen just got the new Aquacomputer 7970 block (3D Flow)

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18034/ex-blc-1391/Aquacomputer_aquagraFX_HD_7970_Full_Coverage_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Copper_Version_23534.html

Looks very nice


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Everything in here...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...will go from in here...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...to that below (in black).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just checked USPS tracking that my 420 rad and a bunch of other FrozenCPU goodies are arriving today. Gotta love Christmas...


Thats the most noise I have ever seen in a picture...









Congratz on the Switch 810 case, I'm planning on buying one to...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm back to my old GPU config:
> 
> Wether on series or paralel it didn't make a difference so I'll just keep it simple.


Looks better like that anyway.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I present to you, cell phone teaser
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks good! really diggin the look of that block








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Just how I like my GPU blocks, with a squeeze of lemon. One more piece done. In theory I have a full loop and can setup up right now but I need a few more things first.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


curious... i've never cleaned out blocks with lemon juice. what are the benefits compared to...?


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I present to you, cell phone teaser


What kinda vrm temps do you get on that?


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm back to my old GPU config:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wether on series or paralel it didn't make a difference so I'll just keep it simple.


Looks really slick


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Looks really slick


Thank you, only change I want to do very soon is buy some clear tubing and Mayhems Deep Red dye.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> YES!!! More rad, more rad, more rad. Ty.
> Sorry for the no spoiler. On the phone.


More to come...



Spoiler: Warning: Clicky


----------



## KyadCK

Ok, time to update. Slight upgrade from my H100.


----------



## Saurian

I'll make a build log in a bit, but here's what I have so far










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







It's my first build and I was wondering if you guys could answer a couple questions:

1. How can I get the compression part to screw onto the barb part better? One of them is being really stubborn and the others were freaking hard to install.

2. If I weren't filling from the bay reservoir, where would be the best place to install a fillport?

Thanks!


----------



## Wogga

haven't yet posted my build.


----------



## lurker2501

Does anybody know if this block fits GTX 570?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Does anybody know if this block fits GTX 570?


Doesn't loo like it. Its a two screw mounting system. The Fermis use four mounting holes.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Just how I like my GPU blocks, with a squeeze of lemon. One more piece done. In theory I have a full loop and can setup up right now but I need a few more things first.


is that the block I found you I see?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> looks good! really diggin the look of that block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> curious... i've never cleaned out blocks with lemon juice. what are the benefits compared to...?


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> What kinda vrm temps do you get on that?


LOL horrible ones. 73c+ on 100% load, regardless of what I do. 40c idle
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Looks really slick


thanks!

edit: aaaarg, i managed to double post again


----------



## kyismaster

dp


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Doesn't loo like it. Its a two screw mounting system. The Fermis use four mounting holes.


I know. I want to know if the screw holes coincide with ones on the pcb.


----------



## manosanta13

hello, your machine is very good, good job.
sorry for my English, use a translator.
I liked to computer


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wogga*
> 
> haven't yet posted my build.


That rad


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manosanta13*
> 
> hello, your machine is very good, good job.
> sorry for my English, use a translator.
> *I liked to computer*


You came to the right place, we all like to computer


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How is that any different to what I said?
> Big res are cool,that's why I use them.
> Not to mention they are much easier for fill and bleeding.


Cause you didn't say you used them because you liked them. You agreed with the poster claiming that they provide cool water for the pump and then went on to say that the extra volume created a slower climb to full operating temperatures, thereby implying that that was some sort of benefit. How ever just as it takes slightly longer to warm up it also takes longer to cool down.

The OP asked why people used big reservoirs ... if you use them because you like them that's great but its misleading to be making other claims that suggest its a performance benefit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How is that any different to what I said?
> Big res are cool,that's why I use them.
> Not to mention they are much easier for fill and bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> Cause you didn't say you used them because you liked them. You agreed with the poster claiming that they provide cool water for the pump and then went on to say that the extra volume created a slower climb to full operating temperatures, thereby implying that that was some sort of benefit. How ever just as it takes slightly longer to warm up it also takes longer to cool down.
> 
> The OP asked why people used big reservoirs ... if you use them because you like them that's great but its misleading to be making other claims that suggest its a performance benefit.
Click to expand...

I should of been more specific,i was talking about the leaks being bad news whatever the res size.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> I'll make a build log in a bit, but here's what I have so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's my first build and I was wondering if you guys could answer a couple questions:
> 1. How can I get the compression part to screw onto the barb part better? One of them is being really stubborn and the others were freaking hard to install.
> 2. If I weren't filling from the bay reservoir, where would be the best place to install a fillport?
> Thanks!


1. I have heard Monsoons can be a bit tight but I have not used them. People say it easier to screw them on with a straight run with less curves, but I know that not always possible to avoid.

2. A fill port can be added just about anywhere in the top of the case as long as the gravity will carry your coolant to your reservoir and allow air to escape when bleeding. Mine even has two 90 degree bends in it and worked out perfect. Here is a few pictures.

Can come up with crazy ideas like my 1UP mushroom too!



Here you can see in/out/and fillport installed.

Here is the Fill port adapter to a 90 degree to a compression fitting.

This pic you can see the empty tube running down that coming from the top of the case hitting the first 90 degree then going to DVD bay area where it connect to the Bay res.


Hope this helps you brain strom up some ideas or helps out.


----------



## Saurian

Thanks a ton! I think I'll add a t-connector into the line going into the res intake that I can seal off with a plugged barb. I might as well do the same thing underneath the gpu to help with draining.







I just tried having my friend straighten the tube while I screwed in the fitting and it slid on just fine; maybe it's just a problem with the downward pressure the tube puts on the fitting initially.


----------



## Bart

Nicely done Kyouki!


----------



## Kyouki

Any time Saurian, This forum has giving me so many idea's always nice to share them.

And

thank you Bart!


----------



## Rognin

VOTE FOR ME!!!!!









It's the ROTY vote for Guru3d. I'm the month of November!!!

Linky


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I present to you, cell phone teaser
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Beauty










DAMN!!!









so sexy and sleek. how does the black polished finish looks in person?
(btw, how happy you are that you've made the last minute block switch? )

But:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> What kinda vrm temps do you get on that?
> 
> 
> 
> LOL horrible ones. 73c+ on 100% load, regardless of what I do. 40c idle
Click to expand...

this stops me a bit. is that a 100% load on stock? maybe some airflow over that area might help a bit? (if its possible)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Just how I like my GPU blocks, with a squeeze of lemon. One more piece done. In theory I have a full loop and can setup up right now but I need a few more things first.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Sour


When life gives you lemons, clean your GPU water blocks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> I'll make a build log in a bit, but here's what I have so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's my first build and I was wondering if you guys could answer a couple questions:
> 1. How can I get the compression part to screw onto the barb part better? One of them is being really stubborn and the others were freaking hard to install.
> 2. If I weren't filling from the bay reservoir, where would be the best place to install a fillport?
> Thanks!


Nice water loop in the C70 there








finally these start to surface a bit faster and each one looks better and better







(especially those orange Monsoon fittings and the tubing)

to your questions:
1. were you using the monsoon tool or your fingers? what is the ID and OD of the tubing and fittings? what brand is the tubing? (some tubing could be more difficult to install on the monsoons than others. also it could be just tight bends so maybe you should try to have a bit more tubing and if possible only then shorten)
2. Looking at my own C70 that is beside me, i'd say that either around the front handle area somewhere (so that the handle would still work without any problem) or somewhere on the top fan grill area so it wouldn't bother the fan mounts themselves (onless you plan to mount a top 360 rad)

i have a few questions of my own to you:
1. what rads are in there?
2. why did you choose the (new) EK angles? (not saying that they are ugly, quite the contrary but many and i didn't think that these would look good in any way)
3. do you think that the connection that you've done between the bottom rad and the GPU water block could have been done by using the 45 on the gpu block and the 90 on the rad? (also, are you using any g1/4 extenders?)
4. (last) i see you use the SilenX red fans. how do they look and sound in person?

and on a different note:


Spoiler: MORE CARBON???





*link thingy*


now its just a matter of (a bit less) time


----------



## NomNomNom

Yeah i was thinking of getting the koolance 7970 block for my gu, hopefully it'll get better vrm temps


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Thats the most noise I have ever seen in a picture...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congratz on the Switch 810 case, I'm planning on buying one to...


Sorry, I took those with my phone.









Thanks!!


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wogga*
> 
> haven't yet posted my build.


Really digging this setup, What kind of temps are you seeing with this setup?


----------



## Wogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> Really digging this setup, What kind of temps are you seeing with this setup?


~70C CPU under heavy load and 38-40 on GPUs under heavy load. now while its winter in Moscow - ~65 on CPU and 35-37 on GPUs


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Havnt posted here in abit so heres some shots of my latest build. More pics in my build log in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoy


Hey, is your ambient lighting only coming from that illuminated bottom plate thing? Reason I ask is because I am looking for something to provide uniform white ambient light to my case that doesn't require excessive modding.


----------



## phillyd

Finally! Got my fittings from Monsoon


----------



## ShortySmalls

new case


----------



## kamikaze_

before change of tubing and coolant.


primochill coolant, total garbage, no uv effect and just gunks/fogs tubing my friends. i tried pipe cleaners, but it just smears on the inside of the tubing; too much hassle so i put in new tubing. that's about all primochill is good for anyway, tubing.....




black light held to it.


last result after i zip tie uv lights and boot up for use. now i'm happier with my PC.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Finally! Got my fittings from Monsoon
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jassilamba

Got a monsta 480 rad installed in my 810 in push pull:

Top - Monsta 480
Bottom - UT 60 420
Rear - HW Labs 120


----------



## LiquidHaus

a ducati power supply!?!?!










looks good jassilamba


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Got a monsta 480 rad installed in my 810 in push pull:
> Top - Monsta 480
> Bottom - UT 60 420
> Rear - HW Labs 120
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *Picture Snip*


That looks extremely good, jassilamba. Well done, good sir!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


----------



## animal0307

Quote:
Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117* 

Quote:
Originally Posted by *animal0307* 

Just how I like my GPU blocks, with a squeeze of lemon. One more piece done. In theory I have a full loop and can setup up right now but I need a few more things first.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









curious... i've never cleaned out blocks with lemon juice. what are the benefits compared to...?

You now I'm not sure. This was my first time cleaning a block. It took the tarnish off almost instantly. Some of the more stuck on corrosion took a bit more doing. It was just the first thing I came across on Google. Also it cost $0.48 for the lemon.

Quote:

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Just how I like my GPU blocks, with a squeeze of lemon. One more piece done. In theory I have a full loop and can setup up right now but I need a few more things first.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is that the block I found you I see?
Click to expand...

It might just be.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> a ducati power supply!?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks good jassilamba


Ducati - powered by seasonic X-1050
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> That looks extremely good, jassilamba. Well done, good sir!


Thank you guys for the kind words.


----------



## kcuestag

What clear tubing for 19/13mm should I buy out of these?

- Masterkleer PVC
- Primochill Primoflex PRO
- Tygon R3603

I'm afraid here in Europe I can't get Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT or Durelene else I would get either of those.


----------



## Alex132

Does anyone know how the Cougar Vortex fans do with an RX360?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What clear tubing for 19/13mm should I buy out of these?
> - Masterkleer PVC
> - Primochill Primoflex PRO
> - Tygon R3603
> I'm afraid here in Europe I can't get Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT or Durelene else I would get either of those.


Mayhems recommended MasterKleer a year ago when i started using their dyes. I had ended up using Primochill which actually held.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Does anyone know how the Cougar Vortex fans do with an RX360?


RX series works great with medium to low fans (ie <1500 rpms). I think the Vortex are 1500rpm or < fans. Should be a nice combo.


----------



## Ceadderman

Those those those Monsoon fittings phillyd...







so AWESOMESAUCE!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Got a monsta 480 rad installed in my 810 in push pull:
> Top - Monsta 480
> Bottom - UT 60 420
> Rear - HW Labs 120
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *Picture Snip*












~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mayhems recommended MasterKleer a year ago when i started using their dyes. I had ended up using Primochill which actually held.
> RX series works great with medium to low fans (ie <1500 rpms). I think the Vortex are 1500rpm or < fans. Should be a nice combo.


Yeah I was considering Primochill Primoflex PRO, how good is it?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> here are pic of my finished pc sorry for the crapy pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Somehow I missed these photos. I haven't seen many Lanboy Air builds, and this one is truly stunning!
Rep+


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah I was considering Primochill Primoflex PRO, how good is it?


I've never used that but it was recommended. Have you inquired with with shops in Europe if they will carry the Adv. or Duralene?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've never used that but it was recommended. Have you inquired with with shops in Europe if they will carry the Adv. or Duralene?


I emailed two stores from Spain asking about the Adv. LRT we'll see what they reply.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Does anyone know how the Cougar Vortex fans do with an RX360?
> 
> 
> 
> RX series works great with medium to low fans (ie <1500 rpms). I think the Vortex are 1500rpm or < fans. Should be a nice combo.
Click to expand...

Vortex are 700RPM / 1200RPM fans, I definitely plan on running them at 700RPM.
I want the lowest noise possible - without sacrificing TOO much performance


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Vortex are 700RPM / 1200RPM fans, I definitely plan on running them at 700RPM.
> I want the lowest noise possible - without sacrificing TOO much performance


The RX series should work perfectly fine with those fans. I've been a huge fan of the RX series owning several of them. They worked awesome with the Medium (1500) yate loons I ran.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah I was considering Primochill Primoflex PRO, how good is it?


I believe if you take a look at the Plasticizer thread it was the primary offender. I myself tried the Masterkleer and though it held up I am starting to get a bit of buildup after a month. Only noticeable if I scrape the inside of my tubing, has yet to make it to the clouding stage.

I have Durelene sitting waiting to go in when the next upgrade comes / or I get bored.

The Tygon is likely your best bet, but my Masterkleer has lasted much better than the Primochill I originally bought.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> I believe if you take a look at the Plasticizer thread it was the primary offender. I myself tried the Masterkleer and though it held up I am starting to get a bit of buildup after a month. Only noticeable if I scrape the inside of my tubing, has yet to make it to the clouding stage.
> I have Durelene sitting waiting to go in when the next upgrade comes / or I get bored.
> The Tygon is likely your best bet, but my Masterkleer has lasted much better than the Primochill I originally bought.


Thanks, going for Masterkleer until I can get Durelene or PrimoFlex Advanced LRT here in Europe.


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The Switch has been parted out, all the water cooling parts sold....wanted to share it's final pics. That was my last water cooled build for a long time, going to chill out. But...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can I ask how you cut up the drive bays? I want to removed that plate right below the first bay but don't know what to use.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> before change of tubing and coolant.
> [


I bought the same desk for my kids this Christmas... Except they're sporting an off the shelf PC I just bought them... Although that'll change come next year when I get the itch to build another PC.


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys just want a clarification here. I am doing a build in a Prodigy, cooling a 670FTW and a 2500k. If my loop goes res-pump-rad1-cpu-rad2-gpu-res is that a food loop? I am thinking of using Alphacool rads, but like the crossflow from ZSPC as this will keep tubing clutter to a minimum. Any suggestions for a water noobish? Only cooled a CPU before.
Thanks!


----------



## teamrushpntball

X-flow radiators don't perform as well since they usually only have 1 pass as opposed to 2 in a regular radiator. Past keeping reservoir before pump do whatever you can to make it nice and neat.


----------



## audioholic

As far as x-flow rads what's the performance hit? Couple degrees? Or is it significant?
Edit: I should mention only one cross flow will be used.


----------



## teamrushpntball

I do not think it is much, but can't seem to find any testing to prove as such at the moment.


----------



## wermad

Most of the opinions of gotten on the "X-flow" rads is that they're not good.

Could be why its not widely adopted by the rad makers, ?

I think it comes in use when needing the ports on the other side.

Anyone want to chime in with more solid opinions on these rads? I just don't have anything concrete other the the word of fellow and experienced water coolers


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

coming together. new ax860 installed tonight. next purchase will be a mcp655 pump with a top (not sure which top yet) and a mod kit. i lost an auction on one on ebay with a mod kit and a pump top for under $100......weak. after the pump ill be getting a block for my gpu and another radiator.

added a 3mm uv led in the block, havent sleeved the other one yet.



i sleeved in some UV green cables into my pci-e extensions



so far....


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I bought the same desk for my kids this Christmas... Except they're sporting an off the shelf PC I just bought them... Although that'll change come next year when I get the itch to build another PC.


damn, you're gonna pass that i7 3960x to them?


----------



## wermad

Any tips on tapping larger screw threads on rads? I'm thinking of taping my alphacool rad's m3 screw holes for m4. I have a ton of beefy m4 screws i can use instead of the anemic M3s


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any tips on tapping larger screw threads on rads? I'm thinking of taping my alphacool rad's m3 screw holes for m4. I have a ton of beefy m4 screws i can use instead of the anemic M3s


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Most of the opinions of gotten on the "X-flow" rads is that they're not good.
> 
> Could be why its not widely adopted by the rad makers, ?
> 
> I think it comes in use when needing the ports on the other side.
> 
> Anyone want to chime in with more solid opinions on these rads? I just don't have anything concrete other the the word of fellow and experienced water coolers


Bang on.

X flow rads are used when space dictates it,its not a choice if you have room for a dual pass.

You see a lot of X flow rads being used as top rads as space tends to be tightest there in regards to ports.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> Can I ask how you cut up the drive bays? I want to removed that plate right below the first bay but don't know what to use.


I drilled out the rivets holding the top optical bays in. Once that was removed I drilled some holes to mount the top of the radiator, cut up some scrap metal and drilled holes into those, and there are four strips mounted into the case then securing the top of the rad.
Circled in yellow.

Just another view of it.


----------



## Janac

will this be good?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> will this be good?


Not sure if that 120mm fits if you use 240 in the bottom... But if i would use my CM 690 for WC, i would do this:

Sorry for awesome paint skills...


----------



## Janac

Thanks.

I will use:



regular 120mm and 240mm rad.

Will EK supreme LTX will be good?

I will be cooling i5 3570k at 5.0GHz


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got a monsta 480 rad installed in my 810 in push pull:
> Top - Monsta 480
> Bottom - UT 60 420
> Rear - HW Labs 120
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


the beautiful setup you got there!


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I drilled out the rivets holding the top optical bays in. Once that was removed I drilled some holes to mount the top of the radiator, cut up some scrap metal and drilled holes into those, and there are four strips mounted into the case then securing the top of the rad.
> Circled in yellow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just another view of it.


Ok, cool. I wonder how challenging it would be to just remove that plate under the top bay, I've never done something like that.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thanks.
> I will use:
> 
> regular 120mm and 240mm rad.
> Will EK supreme LTX will be good?
> I will be cooling i5 3570k at 5.0GHz


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: *snip*


Thanks bud









Would it be an easy tap to just go straight from the M3 holes to the M4 tap? I looked at a tap chart and the pilot hole recommended is 3.3 (vs. 3mm for the M3 hole).


----------



## teamrushpntball

I doubt that would make a difference, but if you do have difficulty you could always drill the hole out ever so slightly.


----------



## HPE1000

Well, it's watercooled


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be an easy tap to just go straight from the M3 holes to the M4 tap? I looked at a tap chart and the pilot hole recommended is 3.3 (vs. 3mm for the M3 hole).


I've tapped many a holes in my time (get your mind out of the gutter OCN) and you should be fine with just going into the M3 holes. If the steel were a lower gauge(thicker) I would say you would have to redrill. If you do redrill the holes be sure to put a stop on your bit so it doesn't grab the metal and send it through the tubes. That would be bad. Be sure to tap by hand and take your time going in and out so you don't hit the tubes. The first part of the tap should be tapered. To be honest, you could probably tap the holes with just the screw itself, but to be sure I would use a tap. The taps don't go bad as long as you use it right and I am sure you would use it in the future. I have a kit that has multiple size as that was the cheaper option for me at the time( commercial door installer).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> I doubt that would make a difference, but if you do have difficulty you could always drill the hole out ever so slightly.


Tnx








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> I've tapped many a holes in my time (get your mind out of the gutter OCN) and you should be fine with just going into the M3 holes. If the steel were a lower gauge(thicker) I would say you would have to redrill. If you do redrill the holes be sure to put a stop on your bit so it doesn't grab the metal and send it through the tubes. That would be bad. Be sure to tap by hand and take your time going in and out so you don't hit the tubes. The first part of the tap should be tapered. To be honest, you could probably tap the holes with just the screw itself, but to be sure I would use a tap. The taps don't go bad as long as you use it right and I am sure you would use it in the future. I have a kit that has multiple size as that was the cheaper option for me at the time( commercial door installer).


Thanks guys









Since I'm planning on selling these 360s later one, I'll put it off for now until i get my 480s. I can buy a cheap tap set at Harbor Freight and just practice on a dead (punctured) rad.

Nice idea to tap with an M4 screw. will save me the purchase of a tap set if that works.

anyways, I have a g-1/4 tap and bit for it. I just haven't gotten around to use it. I had planned to make a clear acrylic bridge for my old ek blocks but I never got around to do that. Might use it when i switch to some bay reservoirs









+1(s)


----------



## manosanta13

thank you very much cibi am new to the forum, I try to translate Spanish to English jajajajaja.
I mean a 70 percent,I read some.
I came to learn more, learn more every day and I like to learn from all of you.
I live in connecticut usa, sorry I have to learn English jajajaj

thank you very much to all


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manosanta13*
> 
> thank you very much cibi am new to the forum, I try to translate Spanish to English jajajajaja.
> I mean a 70 percent,I read some.
> I came to learn more, learn more every day and I like to learn from all of you.
> I live in connecticut usa, sorry I have to learn English jajajaj
> thank you very much to all


Holy GAWD !! what is that ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Rl5svAlMuM

I read your parts list, the vid appears to show 5 reservoirs, tho I know there's 4. such an IL MONSTRO !!


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tnx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm planning on selling these 360s later one, I'll put it off for now until i get my 480s. I can buy a cheap tap set at Harbor Freight and just practice on a dead (punctured) rad.
> Nice idea to tap with an M4 screw. will save me the purchase of a tap set if that works.
> anyways, I have a g-1/4 tap and bit for it. I just haven't gotten around to use it. I had planned to make a clear acrylic bridge for my old ek blocks but I never got around to do that. Might use it when i switch to some bay reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1(s)


Only one last bit of advise. Just make sure your tap threads match your screws. 1/4-20 is a pretty common thread pattern but there are other 1/4-XX patterns. Thanks for the rep


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

So im thinking of getting 6 GT 1850s for my ex360. Yay or nay? Is there a better fan for the EX rad?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Only one last bit of advise. Just make sure your tap threads match your screws. 1/4-20 is a pretty common thread pattern but there are other 1/4-XX patterns. Thanks for the rep


Yes, I bought a bpp 1/4". I have yet to use it since I can't find a large enough wrench for it. Might just use my drill (or impact drill).


----------



## IT Diva

I figured that someone would have brought it up by now, but since they haven't . . . .

Be carefull with going larger on rad holes . . .

The reason is that if you look at how most holes are made, they are pushed thru, and the metal rolls up and out around the hole on the back side.

This is what the threads are actually in, this little rim of metal, otherwise. the threads would only be as long as the sheet metal is thick, which wouldn't hold squat.

When you put in a bigger screw, you pretty much remove that little rim of metal that has all the threading in it, and are left with only the thin sheetmetal of the rad frame without much holding power.

If you just "have" to put something bigger in place of 3mm hardware (and I hate 3mm too) . . Go with 4mm. It's just about the size of 6-32, but has much finer threads, which work much better in the thin metal which is what you'll have to work with.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Only one last bit of advise. Just make sure your tap threads match your screws. 1/4-20 is a pretty common thread pattern but there are other 1/4-XX patterns. Thanks for the rep


Werm said G-1/4 . . .that's the thread size for most WC fittings also called british parallel pipe thread (bpp)

It uses an 11.8mm bit, so not likely to get that confused with a 1/4" american thread size, lol

Darlene


----------



## LiquidHaus

i found when tapping my radiators, the best way was the legitimate way - using an actual tapper. and a hand crank tapper at that. i'd never risk using a drill myself. too much risk in over powering the drill and punching through the fins and such. that tapper i posted a couple pages back was 15 bucks at home depot, and the tap bit itself was like 4 bucks. not bad, and considering 6-32 is a super common size - at least for me, i decided to keep it. lol i honestly thought about using the tapper, and then returning it back to home depot. it's a neat little tool. and it's the right way of going about it imo.

just my


----------



## wermad

I bought the g1/4 tap to make a custom bridge for some ek blocks. i ended up selling the gpu(s) with the blocks and the bridge too. I still couldn't find a large enough wrench for the tap though, which makes me think I might have bought a machinery tap rather then a manual tap.

As far as tapping the rad, I'm more interested in "upgrading" the M3 screws on the Alphacool rads to M4. Since I don't plan to keep these current ones, I'll leave this project until i get my new rads.

I definitely prefer M4 or at leas #6-32 screws for the rad. M3 has too much wiggle room which is a pita to install on my case. When i had the SR1s and a DD case, the M4s went in smoothly.

Its a bit annoying (but understandable) that Alphacool uses M3 on their huge and heavy Monsta rads.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> i found when tapping my radiators, the best way was the legitimate way - using an actual tapper. and a hand crank tapper at that. i'd never risk using a drill myself. too much risk in over powering the drill and punching through the fins and such. that tapper i posted a couple pages back was 15 bucks at home depot, and the tap bit itself was like 4 bucks. not bad, and considering 6-32 is a super common size - at least for me, i decided to keep it. lol i honestly thought about using the tapper, and then returning it back to home depot. it's a neat little tool. and it's the right way of going about it imo.
> just my


your two cents is worth alot more then two cents as it will save alot of radiators


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> i found when tapping my radiators, the best way was the legitimate way - using an actual tapper. and a hand crank tapper at that. i'd never risk using a drill myself. too much risk in over powering the drill and punching through the fins and such. that tapper i posted a couple pages back was 15 bucks at home depot, and the tap bit itself was like 4 bucks. not bad, and considering 6-32 is a super common size - at least for me, i decided to keep it. lol i honestly thought about using the tapper, and then returning it back to home depot. it's a neat little tool. and it's the right way of going about it imo.
> just my


Good lordy, I would never use a drill to tap a rad. I already killed a new and expensive rad a few years ago so Im very cautious with my radiators







. I would definitely use a manual tap for the rads.

I am scheming some custom made fittings like Ts and Xs for my loop. I have a *g1/4* tap and i wouldn't hesitate using a *drill press or a drill/impact-drill* on some scrap acrylic I have. It should be interesting


----------



## Qu1ckset

Finally got my build together, now i just need to work on my lighting, not satisfied yet...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good lordy, I would never use a drill to tap a rad. I already killed a new and expensive rad a few years ago so Im very cautious with my radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would definitely use a manual tap for the rads.
> I am scheming some custom made fittings like Ts and Xs for my loop. I have a *g1/4* tap and i wouldn't hesitate using a *drill press or a drill/impact-drill* on some scrap acrylic I have. It should be interesting


i was merely saying that to stray any other readers away from drilling







i figured you knew what you were doing lol.

i really like the idea of making your own Ts and Xs. but my thought on that is since you have to drill all the way through the acrylic, then merely tap a 1/4" or 1/2" into the acrylic, the pre-existing hole you drilled would make it very easy to hand tap the g1/4 threads so they'd be more precise - acrylic isn't that tough









is that tap bit you own have a square tip on the other end by chance? if so, there are hand tappers that are made by the same company that made the one i bought (Irwin). each hand tapper has adjustable sizing to accommodate several different bits - but bigger ones are also available for the really big tappers. i personally would go that route. that way you also come up with a hand tapper you could use in the future.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> i was merely saying that to stray any other readers away from drilling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i figured you knew what you were doing lol.
> i really like the idea of making your own Ts and Xs. but my thought on that is since you have to drill all the way through the acrylic, then merely tap a 1/4" or 1/2" into the acrylic, the pre-existing hole you drilled would make it very easy to hand tap the g1/4 threads so they'd be more precise - acrylic isn't that tough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is that tap bit you own have a square tip on the other end by chance? if so, there are hand tappers that are made by the same company that made the one i bought (Irwin). each hand tapper has adjustable sizing to accommodate several different bits - but bigger ones are also available for the really big tappers. i personally would go that route. that way you also come up with a hand tapper you could use in the future.


This thing is big. I bought a few wrenches from Harbor Freight and Homes and they weren't big enough. That's why I haven't really looked at hand taping it. I'm sure its doable. Let me get a pic w/ he caliper on it


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I bought the g1/4 tap to make a custom bridge for some ek blocks. i ended up selling the gpu(s) with the blocks and the bridge too. I still couldn't find a large enough wrench for the tap though, which makes me think I might have bought a machinery tap rather then a manual tap.
> As far as tapping the rad, I'm more interested in "upgrading" the M3 screws on the Alphacool rads to M4. Since I don't plan to keep these current ones, I'll leave this project until i get my new rads.
> I definitely prefer M4 or at leas #6-32 screws for the rad. M3 has too much wiggle room which is a pita to install on my case. When i had the SR1s and a DD case, the M4s went in smoothly.
> Its a bit annoying (but understandable) that Alphacool uses M3 on their huge and heavy Monsta rads.


The Alphacool M3 threads are crap, at least the two rads I have. I used #6-32 for the stripped ones since I always have those laying around. But if you are going to tap such a short area you will likely need a bottom tap. A starter tap for #6-32 wouldn't even begin to engage the threads so I just screwed the screws in and they hold fine, in spite of having been removed/reinstalled several times.
I couldn't find a bottom tap in either 6-32 or M4 anywhere in my area.

Off this topic and on to another one while I'm thinking about it, you guys that disassemble fans for painting might like to know there are some clips available that will fit GT AP15's from the hardware store. I don't know the exact size because I had to pick through a mess but I bought all the little "e clips" I could find to replace the ones that "got away" and they work fine.


----------



## wermad




----------



## LiquidHaus

http://www.irwin.com/tools/taps-dies-sets/performance-threading-system-drive-tools


----------



## jeffblute

I am pretty sure I am going to sell my two RX 360s and pick up one of these, Watercool MO-RA3 Rad and throw my rig into something simple (thinking the Fractal R4). That way I can mount the rad to the back panel of the case with some quick disconnects for easy moving and draining.

A single D5 should be able to push that, a cpu and two gpu blocks right? ( I am about 78% sure it will be fine







)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.irwin.com/tools/taps-dies-sets/performance-threading-system-drive-tools


$45 from amazon....I'll put it on my wish list









http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-4935055-Performance-Threading/dp/B002M78QP0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1356745376&sr=8-2&keywords=IRWIN+DRIVE+TOOL


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thanks.
> I will use:
> 
> regular 120mm and 240mm rad.
> Will EK supreme LTX will be good?
> I will be cooling i5 3570k at 5.0GHz


----------



## Tarnix

Back again on my H80 rig horror-pictures thing, I actually bought a Fractal Design define R4 Black w/ window case and a GTX660 DCU II OC (1020MHz) for Xmas. Oh, and I swapped the corsair fans with some Cooler Master Sickleflow 120 (only one installed right now).
The back panel is not closed yet, since I just spent 2h making sure I didn't need to start over, and I want to enjoy the PC a bit. The wires aren't tied at the back yet.
Sorry for crappy webcam pics D:


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i bet there is a socket wrench that will make quick work of anything with the tap. i am glad to say that i have never has to tap anything that size. bigger is better?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> $45 from amazon....I'll put it on my wish list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-4935055-Performance-Threading/dp/B002M78QP0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1356745376&sr=8-2&keywords=IRWIN+DRIVE+TOOL


Awesome! Glad I got ya sorted out! Irwin has got quality so I definitely approve.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> i bet there is a socket wrench that will make quick work of anything with the tap. i am glad to say that i have never has to tap anything that size. bigger is better?


Just to tinker around and make some g1/4 ports on little projects







. The tap was like $8 so it wasn't that bad. The wrench is pricey though (drill still an option







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Awesome! Glad I got ya sorted out! Irwin has got quality so I definitely approve.










+1


----------



## Janac

will somebody for jesus ANSWER ME???


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> will somebody for jesus ANSWER ME???


If no one has answered you yet, I can only assume it's because no one has seen your post that has prior knowledge of that pump yet. Google may be your clutch play at this point.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> will somebody for jesus ANSWER ME???


I'm sure you could have asked it more kindly, but for the heck of keeping people from screaming, i'l answer you with the best of my knowledge: Unless you're looking to satisfy an OCN about rounded temperatures or something like that, yes, about any block, especially EK, will do.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> If no one has answered you yet, I can only assume it's because no one has seen your post that has prior knowledge of that pump yet. Google may be your clutch play at this point.


Thanks.

Is that pump good?


----------



## Alex5389

Guess im a bit late to the party, but here goes The Bluehawk Ultra anyway..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8230282418/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8314521888/

and after some mayhems pastel concentrate..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8310912119/

with some UV light..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8316740018/

Details..

CASE
Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra
MOBO
Gigabyte 990FXA-UD7
CPU
AMD Phenom 1090T
LIQUID LOOP
1. EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 120 XTX Series Liquid Cooling Radiator (EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (120))
2. Swiftech MCP355 PUMP
3. EK Dual Bay SPIN Reservoir w/ Flow Meter - Acetal White
4. EK Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 Full Board Cooling Block Kit - Nickel Plated
5. EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel
6. Koolance CHC-125 Water Block (Southbridge)
7. Magicool High Performance 420 Copper Radiator
8. Phobya 180 Degree T Block (bleed port)

no gpu support just yet but coming soon..


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thanks.
> Is that pump good?


most of us probably have never ever seen that thing in our lives.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thanks.
> Is that pump good?
> 
> 
> 
> most of us probably have never ever seen that thing in our lives.
Click to expand...

^


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thanks.
> Is that pump good?


I just stated someone with knowledge of that pump would chime in if there was one. I am not that person.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thanks.
> Is that pump good?


your just going to have to find out for yourself lol.

always first time for everything, looks like your up for the bat

worse comes to worse, you sell it and get something else.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thanks.
> Is that pump good?


I've seen this pump on ebay. Honestly I don't have any info on it. But...I did have a 690ii build not too long ago and a bay res w/ a pump is the best way to go. A DDC or a D5 in a dual bay res will be perfect. Here's my old build:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







edit:

This the pump?:
Quote:


> Features :
> Flow: max300L / h
> Head: max 1 Meter
> Power Connector: 3Pin connector
> Voltage: DC12V
> Power: 4W
> Water tank capacity: 100 mL
> Noise: 22 DB
> Threaded connections: G 1/4 DN8 (6.35mm)
> Dimensions: Length 110mm x W 60mm x 60mm
> Tap outside diameter: 8 mm


http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-Water-pump-with-tank-For-Computer-CPU-CO2-Laser-Liquid-Cooling-System-pc-/170929163738?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item27cc2c0dda


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> will this be good?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Not sure if that 120mm fits if you use 240 in the bottom... But if i would use my CM 690 for WC, i would do this:
> 
> Sorry for awesome paint skills...


Example: Any help??


----------



## kyismaster

20 dollars for a pump res combo? sounds fishy. wouldn't sacrifice it for my 1000+ worth of hardware


----------



## Alfaa

Guys, this isn't the right place to post this but I don't think its going to get any exposure if I make another thread.

I was getting a custom loop together for my brother tonight for a LAN party tomorrow and at the last freaking minute, figured out the pump didn't freaking work. I got it from a friend (its an mcp355) and he had it sitting around for awhile before he gave it to me.

Anyway, the LAN party is tomorrow and I really don't want to disassemble this entire loop tonight. Do any of you know anywhere that would sell something I could buy just to pump water through this thing? Can I disassemble an H80 or something to get the pump? Does anyone here live in South Florida and would be willing to let me borrow a pump for a day? I just need to get water going through this so he can play tomorrow!

Thanks to everyone!









EDIT: Ill even buy the pump if I can pick it up tomorrow!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Guys, this isn't the right place to post this but I don't think its going to get any exposure if I make another thread.
> I was getting a custom loop together for my brother tonight for a LAN party tomorrow and at the last freaking minute, figured out the pump didn't freaking work. I got it from a friend (its an mcp355) and he had it sitting around for awhile before he gave it to me.
> Anyway, the LAN party is tomorrow and I really don't want to disassemble this entire loop tonight. Do any of you know anywhere that would sell something I could buy just to pump water through this thing? Can I disassemble an H80 or something to get the pump? Does anyone here live in South Florida and would be willing to let me borrow a pump for a day? I just need to get water going through this so he can play tomorrow!
> Thanks to everyone!


Petco submergable pumps + bucket = win? lolololol

if you live near palm bay go here:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php

and drive quickly, oh wait its saturday.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Petco submergable pumps + bucket = win? lolololol
> if you live near palm bay go here:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php
> and drive quickly, oh wait its saturday.


I was just freaking there today (Its right by Kennedy Space Center) and I picked up an AMD bracket for the Raystorm I asked about (Performance PCs was awesome, by the way). Unfortunately, its about a 3 hour drive from my house there and back.

If I could, I totally would.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> I was just freaking there today (Its right by Kennedy Space Center) and I picked up an AMD bracket for the Raystorm I asked about (Performance PCs was awesome, by the way). Unfortunately, its about a 3 hour drive from my house there and back.
> If I could, I totally would.


if your anywhere near orlando, i think i can fix the pump lol


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> if your anywhere near orlando, i think i can fix the pump lol


I'm wayyy south, bro. Its a 4 hour drive up to there from here.

Thanks for the offer, though


----------



## NomNomNom

Has anyone ever ordered from here before?
http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Has anyone ever ordered from here before?
> http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/


lemme know how that works out for you


----------



## Mikecdm

he sells those pumps on several forums. I've been seeing them for a very long time. His heatware should speak for itself and almost every evaluation is for the sale of those pumps. I've never purchased from him though.


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> if your anywhere near orlando, i think i can fix the pump lol


Wait wait wait. How can you fix it? Its making noise (basically, the electromagnets are working) but the actual thing inside that spins.... isn't spinning.

I'm about to open it up and look, but is there a simple way to fix this damn thing?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Wait wait wait. How can you fix it? Its making noise (basically, the electromagnets are working) but the actual thing inside that spins.... isn't spinning.
> I'm about to open it up and look, but is there a simple way to fix this damn thing?


open it up, clean it up a little

i used to do this for salt water tanks


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> open it up, clean it up a little
> i used to do this for salt water tanks


Really? That's it?

Is there any sort of lubricant I should use to keep it spinning nicely?

Again, thanks.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Really? That's it?
> Is there any sort of lubricant I should use to keep it spinning nicely?
> Again, thanks.


not really.

worse comes to worse, you still have a broken pump


----------



## NomNomNom

Seems like martin has ordered some from him, i guess he can be trusted. Those are some mighty cheap mcp350s!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Has anyone ever ordered from here before?
> http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/


Trusted member


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> not really.
> worse comes to worse, you still have a broken pump


I might have temporarily fixed it. I took it apart and followed some instructions I found on the 'net on how to fix em.

Anyway, thanks for your help. I wouldn't have looked into it if you haven't said something.

I gave you +REP


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> I might have temporarily fixed it. I took it apart and followed some instructions I found on the 'net on how to fix em.
> Anyway, thanks for your help. I wouldn't have looked into it if you haven't said something.
> I gave you +REP


thanks,

but, think of this as a temp fix, don't want to have it stop mid usage in the future.

keep it as a spare pump though


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> thanks,
> but, think of this as a temp fix, don't want to have it stop mid usage in the future.
> keep it as a spare pump though


All it needs to do is get through 2 days of usage. I'll have another one ready on Monday!


----------



## DragonCypher

I too can vouch for bmaverick's pumps

I've been using one of his with an XSPC top on it almost 24/7 for over 18 months. It's wired straight into 12V (only got a 2 wire version), and is barely audible from 1m away.

@Alfaa: Good luck with the temp fix, hope it survives the LAN


----------



## teamrushpntball

Thinking of going ahead and buying one for a second pump to run in series with my mcp35x. That or maybe 2 since it's only 20 bucks more.


----------



## manosanta13

cketus thank you very much, the video is old, this good video, evga (E762 4 SLI) REVODRIVER X2) Gkill 2000 mhz) (4.6 GHz Intel 980x)
change everything, motherboard MSI BIG BAND XPOWER 2 // INTEL 3960 4.7 GHZ 1.42V // REVODRIVER 3X2 Read, Write1698,1460 MB .

the memory surprised me, is supposed to work that reports to 2133 MHZ, 11.11.11.30.2t / / 1.6 v.( my OC 2400 mhz 11,11,11,30,2 t, 1.65 v ).no problem.
are six water systems 1) motherboard, 2) processor, 3)2 radiators, 4 fan, first video, 4)2 radiators, 4 fan, second video, 5)1 radiator, 2 fan for first memory, 6) 1 radiator, 2 fan for second memory.
photos are more resent,see photos thank you .


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Has anyone ever ordered from here before?
> http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/


So I was reading his site, and I'm confused. Are these functional pumps with the mod? Or are these non-functional pumps that will only work with the mod done to their circuit boards?


----------



## NomNomNom

Theyre basically functional mcp350's


----------



## teamrushpntball

Hmmm, think I'l wait on bmaverick to reply before I place the order to be sure. Else wise seems I may spend more for pump tops than pumps themselves.


----------



## King4x4

Just finished my build... got another pic with Leds on but that will be posted soonish:

Before:


After:





World of Difference!


----------



## marodox

My first loop!




Used the XSPC RX360 kit, made some pretty stupid mistakes ...

For some reason, the idea of just rotating the CPU block around didn't come to mind, so I unnecessarily crossed the tubing.
I also mounted the rad fans in the wrong direction and forgot the I/O plate. Fixing these things would require a drain.
The only reason I haven't done it yet is because I am looking to order a GPU block and different tubing this weekend.
Guess that's what you get when you try to do it in a hurry late at night, lesson learned ... Hopefully I can get it looking better after I add the GPU.

EDIT: Forgot I uploaded this vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkWfkcUWFfw&list=UUEAwyoz4iTlneFqX3DEP5QA&index=1


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Has anyone ever ordered from here before?
> http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/


Those are great pumps


----------



## Tarnix

I promise I'll stop posting pics of my H80 if I get tomatoes thrown at








But I finally finished putting my new case together. It may not perform super awesome chilly temps, it may not destroy every person's ego, but it's silent.









Light:


No light/Dark:


----------



## _REAPER_

Let me know what you guys think


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've seen this pump on ebay. Honestly I don't have any info on it. But...I did have a 690ii build not too long ago and a bay res w/ a pump is the best way to go. A DDC or a D5 in a dual bay res will be perfect. Here's my old build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> This the pump?:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-Water-pump-with-tank-For-Computer-CPU-CO2-Laser-Liquid-Cooling-System-pc-/170929163738?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item27cc2c0dda


yes this that pump, its very cheap


----------



## PinzaC55

I'm finally starting my "proper" water cooling but I have to say this is the most complicated thing - PC wise - I have ever done, partly since the UK suppliers aren't as good overall as USA suppliers. One supplier appears to have translated their product descriptions from German and it is very confusing. So far I have the Phobya Balancer 150 reservoir and a number of Koolance fittings for 3/8 ID 1/2 OD tubing and a Raystorm CPU block on order. So, a couple of questions. First , I have enough room to fit a pump to the base of the Balancer. Can anyone suggest a suitable pump combing sufficient power for a 360 radiator and the CPU only? Second, for the CPU only would a 360 radiator be cooled sufficiently by 3 x Phobya Nano 2G fans? I have 2 on my Corsair H100 with the Corsair stock fans top mounted "pulling".


----------



## Crooksy

I'm thinking of going watercooling and have spec'd up a list. Tell me what you think. This will go in my sig rig.



I've heard that the Masterkleer tubing isn't the best to go with though... Please correct me if I am wrong or suggest another tubing brand you prefer.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Let me know what you guys think
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think you forgot your cup of milk inside your case from when you were building.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm thinking of going watercooling and have spec'd up a list. Tell me what you think. This will go in my sig rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard that the Masterkleer tubing isn't the best to go with though... Please correct me if I am wrong or suggest another tubing brand you prefer.


Well Masterkleer is a bit better than regular Primochill. Try and find either Durelene or Primochill Advanced if you can. As for your list seems you have everything covered, and seem to like Crop Circles (I do myself / only nice plexi blocks I found at first) and they do look great both in person and together.

MAke sure you have clearance for that radiator in your case, and what fans are you intending to use?


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm thinking of going watercooling and have spec'd up a list. Tell me what you think. This will go in my sig rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard that the Masterkleer tubing isn't the best to go with though... Please correct me if I am wrong or suggest another tubing brand you prefer.
> 
> 
> 
> Well Masterkleer is a bit better than regular Primochill. Try and find either Durelene or Primochill Advanced if you can. As for your list seems you have everything covered, and seem to like Crop Circles (I do myself / only nice plexi blocks I found at first) and they do look great both in person and together.
> 
> MAke sure you have clearance for that radiator in your case, and what fans are you intending to use?
Click to expand...

Yes haha, I like matching products although I am still a little hesitant over EK following the huge issues they had with their nickel plating. Although this is copper and acetal, i'm still a little scared!

OK, the website I will be ordering mainly from doesn't supply that tubing so I will have a look elsewhere for that. Thanks for the suggestion.

As for the fans, I plan on using the Corsair SP120 performance editions. I already have a few in my 800D and they look great and perform well so I'd like to continue the theme and go for those. If I have space I would like to go for push/pull but I haven't measured if that will fit yet. I would still be happy with just push though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm thinking of going watercooling and have spec'd up a list. Tell me what you think. This will go in my sig rig.
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard that the Masterkleer tubing isn't the best to go with though... Please correct me if I am wrong or suggest another tubing brand you prefer.


Im not a fan of the EK gear but its serviceable enough.

Looks like a good list.


----------



## teamrushpntball

The SP120's will serve you well, good fans. Make sure to get the High Performance and just tune them down if you want. Testing I saw showed the exact same sound to rpm between the High and Quiet versions so no need to get the lower ones at all.

I myself have all EK products and went all copper + clear plexi. They look great and have stood up, I had just purchased my first pieces before reading their past issues. Once I had them they seemed well built to me, and they really do NOT match anything else. Albeit I suppose that's what they are going for.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not a fan of the EK gear but its serviceable enough.
> 
> Looks like a good list.


Is it their quality, performance or aesthetics you don't like or is there something else? I don't want to make a mistake and end up replacing parts earlier than I might have thought.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> The SP120's will serve you well, good fans. Make sure to get the High Performance and just tune them down if you want. Testing I saw showed the exact same sound to rpm between the High and Quiet versions so no need to get the lower ones at all.
> 
> I myself have all EK products and went all copper + clear plexi. They look great and have stood up, I had just purchased my first pieces before reading their past issues. Once I had them they seemed well built to me, and they really do NOT match anything else. Albeit I suppose that's what they are going for.


Are there any decent brands that would be able to supply all the necessary parts whist offering decent performance? Where I'm very new to this area of cooling, I haven't got a grasp on which brands are offering the quality products as of yet.


----------



## Arknoodle

Here's a few shots of my build. Hopefully these aren't too bad taken with a cell phone and practicing picture taking for when I start modding the case and installing the custom loop


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arknoodle*
> 
> Here's a few shots of my build. Hopefully these aren't too bad taken with a cell phone and practicing picture taking for when I start modding the case and installing the custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You took those with a cell phone!?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I figured that someone would have brought it up by now, but since they haven't . . . .
> 
> Be carefull with going larger on rad holes . . .
> 
> The reason is that if you look at how most holes are made, they are pushed thru, and the metal rolls up and out around the hole on the back side.
> 
> This is what the threads are actually in, this little rim of metal, otherwise. the threads would only be as long as the sheet metal is thick, which wouldn't hold squat.
> 
> When you put in a bigger screw, you pretty much remove that little rim of metal that has all the threading in it, and are left with only the thin sheetmetal of the rad frame without much holding power.
> 
> If you just "have" to put something bigger in place of 3mm hardware (and I hate 3mm too) . . Go with 4mm. It's just about the size of 6-32, but has much finer threads, which work much better in the thin metal which is what you'll have to work with.
> 
> Darlene


This is a very important point about how re-threading holes in thin sheet metal can reduce and even destroy their holding power, and it deserves a Rep+








In some of the industrial machinery I've worked with, I've seen where the appropriate fasteners, such as a matching nut for the bolt, are welded, or sometimes crimped to the underside of the thin sheet metal for the bolts to properly thread into. I doubt if we'll ever see this employed on mass-produced rads, but Aquacomputer uses "riveted-in threads for fan mounting" to deal with this:

www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1076&products_id=32662

Of course in cost and quality, the Aquacomputer rads are far beyond the Alphacool and XSPC rads I have, but it would be nice to see something better than just punching and threading the fan holes into such thin metal.


----------



## Crooksy

I'm unsure of what size tubing that I want to go for. I originally wanted to go for 1/2 ID with 3/4 OD but think I need to look at a few rigs to see which look I like the best.

In terms of performance, I assume the wider ID is better for flow reasons?


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm unsure of what size tubing that I want to go for. I originally wanted to go for 1/2 ID with 3/4 OD but think I need to look at a few rigs to see which look I like the best.
> In terms of performance, I assume the wider ID is better for flow reasons?


Tubing size actually doesn't really make a difference.


----------



## Fonne

Since Alphacool dont answer and the Monstra 140mm is looking not to be coming this year, I am taking a look on the Alphacool UT60 140mm ...

The case is a mITX, and at the moment I can find 2 options on cooling:

*Option 1:* (19600mm Front area)
- Alphacool UT60 140mm in Push/Pull (140mm RAD - 60mm Thick)

*Options 2:* (2600mm Front area)
- Alphacool UT60 140mm in Push only (140mm RAD - 60mm Thick)
+
- Black Ice GTX M80 in Push only (80mm RAD - 54mm Thick)

Options 2 will give me around *1/3* more front area of cooling, and since the system will be on the limit, is will help I think ...

But the problem with Options 2, is that everthing will be really close together ... My great skill in paint will show:



Just done this fast to show the kind of problem it will give .... How much free space to you need on the other side of the RAD where there is no fan ?

Hope you can see what I mean


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm unsure of what size tubing that I want to go for. I originally wanted to go for 1/2 ID with 3/4 OD but think I need to look at a few rigs to see which look I like the best.
> In terms of performance, I assume the wider ID is better for flow reasons?


Thick walled tube will make nice fluids bends: 3/8x5/8 or 1/2x3/4. I prefer 3/8x5/8 due to the smaller diameter (od) to clear things and the slightly lower cost (usually with fittings). You'll need angled fittings with slightly less thicker tube. I briefly ran 3/8x1/2 and though i loved the size of the fittings, the bends needed additional angle fittings to make the runs fluid.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what you guys think


Awesome rig and desk you got there!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> My first loop!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the XSPC RX360 kit, made some pretty stupid mistakes ...
> For some reason, the idea of just rotating the CPU block around didn't come to mind, so I unnecessarily crossed the tubing.
> I also mounted the rad fans in the wrong direction and forgot the I/O plate. Fixing these things would require a drain.
> The only reason I haven't done it yet is because I am looking to order a GPU block and different tubing this weekend.
> Guess that's what you get when you try to do it in a hurry late at night, lesson learned ... Hopefully I can get it looking better after I add the GPU.
> EDIT: Forgot I uploaded this vid:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkWfkcUWFfw&list=UUEAwyoz4iTlneFqX3DEP5QA&index=1


Super Neat Rig! and welcome OCN WC gangs!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> and welcome OCN WC gangs!


Hide your stock heatsink, hide your oven case because the OCN WC Gang comes to town


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Awesome rig and desk you got there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super Neat Rig! and welcome OCN WC gangs!


Sweet! I just realized that pic isn't of the end product, as you see those dangling fan cables, eww.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm unsure of what size tubing that I want to go for. I originally wanted to go for 1/2 ID with 3/4 OD but think I need to look at a few rigs to see which look I like the best.
> In terms of performance, I assume the wider ID is better for flow reasons?
> 
> 
> 
> Thick walled tube will make nice fluids bends: 3/8x5/8 or 1/2x3/4. I prefer 3/8x5/8 due to the smaller diameter (od) to clear things and the slightly lower cost (usually with fittings). You'll need angled fittings with slightly less thicker tube. I briefly ran 3/8x1/2 and though i loved the size of the fittings, the bends needed additional angle fittings to make the runs fluid.
Click to expand...

I see, so the thicker the tubing, the less likely I am going to need angled fittings. Planning the loop out in my head, I don't think I'm going to be making many. One or two tops, but I have comfortable budget, so buying a few extra compression fittings shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*


Dude, is that Phobya's 400mm rad? ._. what case are you fitting that into?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> Dude, is that Phobya's 400mm rad? ._. what case are you fitting that into?


Try to use spoiler tags if you're gonna quote more than one picture


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm thinking of going watercooling and have spec'd up a list. Tell me what you think. This will go in my sig rig.
> 
> I've heard that the Masterkleer tubing isn't the best to go with though... Please correct me if I am wrong or suggest another tubing brand you prefer.


Ouch! Thats why I never try to total up what my rig has cost me.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Ouch! Thats why I never try to total up what my rig has cost me.


the rig builder helped me sum up what ive spent on my rig... 4k later.... i just spend close to $1000 just on watercooling parts (shipping included) lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Ouch! Thats why I never try to total up what my rig has cost me.
> 
> 
> 
> the rig builder helped me sum up what ive spent on my rig... 4k later.... i just spend close to $1000 just on watercooling parts (shipping included) lol
Click to expand...

I have spent 8,887.17 USD on my SR 2 so far.......


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Ouch! Thats why I never try to total up what my rig has cost me.
> 
> 
> 
> the rig builder helped me sum up what ive spent on my rig... 4k later.... i just spend close to $1000 just on watercooling parts (shipping included) lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have spent 8,887.17 USD on my SR 2 so far.......
Click to expand...

But worth every dollar/pound/euro, whatever!








Over 5k on mine so far, and it ain't finished yet


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have spent 8,887.17 USD on my SR 2 so far.......


that makes me feel so much better about myself, all my coworkers are like your nutz lol, i swear my one coworker is going to have a divorce in a year because of me, he sees my rig and then goes and uses his credit card haha, thursday he spent like $1500 on a 3770k/maximus formula/ and second 7970... dont wanna be there when his wife sees that statement HAHAHAHA, she just about removed his nutz when she found out he bought the first 7970


----------



## manosanta13

_REAPER_ THIS VERY GOOD, GOOD JOB, THAT IS A GLASS OF MILK JAJAJJA.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I see, so the thicker the tubing, the less likely I am going to need angled fittings. Planning the loop out in my head, I don't think I'm going to be making many. One or two tops, but I have comfortable budget, so buying a few extra compression fittings shouldn't be an issue.


I personally prefer Rotary Angled Adapter fittings over Rotary Angled Compression Fittings, as the former allows you to use whatever fitting you want on the end (thus you could just buy, say, 2 6-packs of Monsoon comps and simply add a rotary wherever needed), they cost less, they are modular (you can connect multiple together for really tough bends), and they can last indefinitely as you don't have to buy entirely-new angled fittings just for a tubing-size change (just have to buy new comps; cuts the price to 1/3rd or more!).

Here's an example, with 45deg Single-Rotary, 90deg Single-Rotary, and 90deg Dual-Rotary Angled Adapters from Bitspower (there is a single 45deg Rotary Compression, as well as some other misc fittings in the picture as well):


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> Dude, is that Phobya's 400mm rad? ._. what case are you fitting that into?


480mm rad









and its more like what case i'm fitting it ONTO









flushing atm..


----------



## Saurian

Sore fingers, no kinks or leaks, and maybe a bit of Mayhems xt1 spilled on my hands later, my first watercooling rig is done! It's not the prettiest out there, but it will always hold a special place in my heart







.

I still have a few more things to do like cable management, stress testing, etc, but so far it's showing about 30-35 C at 3.8 GHz (i7-2600k) and the gtx 670 FTW is showing about 25C idle. At load, the CPU goes up to 38-40 and the GPU stays around 35. I've also implemented a drain port so let me know if its current position will work for the most part. I don't think the temps are too shabby considering I only have 2 x low profile 240mm rads. Any helpful advice or critiques are appreciated.

Anyway, enjoy!



PS: Yes, I do realize I have 2 PCI cover plates removed (I plan on adding a tv tuner card for playing GC games through OBS)

PPS: That is NOT a kink at the top right of the photo









PPPS: My mother is not very happy about me using her countertop as a temporary workstation...

PPPPS: Sorry about the quality of the picture; DSLR is charging right now; had to use the point-and-shoot; semicolon;

PPPPPS: Post-scripts are fun


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I see, so the thicker the tubing, the less likely I am going to need angled fittings. Planning the loop out in my head, I don't think I'm going to be making many. One or two tops, but I have comfortable budget, so buying a few extra compression fittings shouldn't be an issue.


A simple loop should be ok w/ a few angled fittings/adapters. Once you go bigger and/or complex (and its very proable this addictio...I mean hobby will cause you to upgrade), then its more practical w/ thicker walled tube imho. Since you have a small loop planned first, the cost shouldn't be that much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I personally prefer Rotary Angled Adapter fittings over Rotary Angled Compression Fittings, as the former allows you to use whatever fitting you want on the end (thus you could just buy, say, 2 6-packs of Monsoon comps and simply add a rotary wherever needed), they cost less, they are modular (you can connect multiple together for really tough bends), and they can last indefinitely as you don't have to buy entirely-new angled fittings just for a tubing-size change (just have to buy new comps; cuts the price to 1/3rd or more!).
> Here's an example, with 45deg Single-Rotary, 90deg Single-Rotary, and 90deg Dual-Rotary Angled Adapters from Bitspower (there is a single 45deg Rotary Compression, as well as some other misc fittings in the picture as well):


I definitely prefer adapters just in case you need to setup a few of them in some sort of weird or unusual arrangement. Its basically more practical then the fixed comp rotary fittings. The adapters are also cheaper then the comp ones.

Found a tap wrench at Sears for my g1/4 tap for $17. Just gonna need to order a cap for my dead drill press and time to play with some acrylic









edit: ugh, I don't even want to think what I've spent on my machine....just depresses me. Taking away from my "future car project" fund (which is depleted atm).


----------



## ginger_nuts

All this talking about money spent on water cooling makes me think of how my water cooling journey started.

Started with me and a H60 (approx $70), my best mate telling me I was crazy, me selling the said H60 to him to upgrade to a XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 kit., and now I have my sig rig which I need a new case for.

Oh and I plan on using the XSPC 750 pump and Rasa block in the childrens PC as soon as I can recover from Christmas and get a EX240 rad and a Koolance CPU-380A block, for me









This hobby is awesome, but expensive


----------



## Crooksy

The prices don't really bother me. Except for one, and that's compression fittings, my god they're expensive for what they are!


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> Sore fingers, no kinks or leaks, and maybe a bit of Mayhems xt1 spilled on my hands later, my first watercooling rig is done! It's not the prettiest out there, but it will always hold a special place in my heart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I still have a few more things to do like cable management, stress testing, etc, but so far it's showing about 30-35 C at 3.8 GHz (i7-2600k) and the gtx 670 FTW is showing about 25C idle. At load, the CPU goes up to 38-40 and the GPU stays around 35. I've also implemented a drain port so let me know if its current position will work for the most part. I don't think the temps are too shabby considering I only have 2 x low profile 240mm rads. Any helpful advice or critiques are appreciated.
> Anyway, enjoy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: Yes, I do realize I have 2 PCI cover plates removed (I plan on adding a tv tuner card for playing GC games through OBS)
> PPS: That is NOT a kink at the top right of the photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PPPS: My mother is not very happy about me using her countertop as a temporary workstation...
> PPPPS: Sorry about the quality of the picture; DSLR is charging right now; had to use the point-and-shoot; semicolon;
> PPPPPS: Post-scripts are fun


Looks great. What fittings are thoes? Are they just compressions w/ the sides cut out?

Also, is that clear tubing w/ dye or colored tubing.

Looks a lot like my first loop, with the bay res and raystorm block, I just need to add my gpu. Water cooling is fun!


----------



## NomNomNom

They are monsoon fittings


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> Looks great. What fittings are thoes? Are they just compressions w/ the sides cut out?
> Also, is that clear tubing w/ dye or colored tubing.
> Looks a lot like my first loop, with the bay res and raystorm block, I just need to add my gpu. Water cooling is fun!


Monsoon Compression Fittings

*Example of angle adapter*


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> The prices don't really bother me. Except for one, and that's compression fittings, my god they're expensive for what they are!


And fans! Holy crap, $120 for a 360 push/pull ... It hurts.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> And fans! Holy crap, $120 for a 360 push/pull ... It hurts.


so agreed


----------



## Qu1ckset

In all fairness the compression fitting will last you a very long time, and can be reused on build after build


----------



## ginger_nuts

Compression fittings can look good, but the old barb and classy looking clamp is a timeless look.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Has anyone ever ordered from here before?
> http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/


Yeah, I have! They are brand new DDC pumps for $35 - bunch of old overstock he and his dad acquired. Comes with 3-pin plug-and-play power connector. I placed XSPC tops on mine. They work great!


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> Looks great. *What fittings are thoes? Are they just compressions w/ the sides cut out?*
> Also, is that clear tubing w/ dye or colored tubing.
> Looks a lot like my first loop, with the bay res and raystorm block, I just need to add my gpu. Water cooling is fun!


You haven't heard of monsoon fittings, you must be new to water cooling









They were released about a year ago I think and they have been used a lot since. Check out some recent build logs if you are interested in them. You can get them in lots of colours and they are actually pretty cheap.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Monsoon Compression Fittings
> *Example of angle adapter*


That's no monsoon fitting, its a blaster to use against storm troopers


----------



## Janac

Is one 120mm radiator enough for cooling CPU ?


----------



## Alfaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Is one 120mm radiator enough for cooling CPU ?


Sure! Why not?

You should get some pretty ok temps, too.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alfaa*
> 
> Sure! Why not?
> You should get some pretty ok temps, too.


sarcasem/ on?


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Is one 120mm radiator enough for cooling CPU ?


A decent 120mm rad would be 'good enough' but a 240mm would be better, and a 360mm rad would be even better. This is OCN we overdo things, if you wait long enough some guy will come along telling you you need a 480 monsta rad.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Monsoon Compression Fittings
> *Example of angle adapter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's no monsoon fitting, its a blaster to use against storm troopers
Click to expand...










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Is one 120mm radiator enough for cooling CPU ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A decent 120mm rad would be 'good enough' but a 240mm would be better, and a 360mm rad would be even better. This is OCN we overdo things, if you wait long enough some guy will come along telling you you need a 480 monsta rad.
Click to expand...

What? I thought that 480 were bare minimum for an i3 ?


----------



## kcuestag

Did I need to upgrade my Magicool Dual 180 (360mm) rad when I added my GTX680 SLI to the loop with the i7 2600k? No, why did I go for Magicool Triple 180 (540mm)? Because this is Overclock.net, nothing is overkill.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Did I need to upgrade my Magicool Dual 180 (360mm) rad when I added my GTX680 SLI to the loop with the i7 2600k? No, why did I go for Magicool Triple 180 (540mm)? Because this is Overclock.net, nothing is overkill.


you changed the 360 for the 540? no no no, you ADD the 540


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Did I need to upgrade my Magicool Dual 180 (360mm) rad when I added my GTX680 SLI to the loop with the i7 2600k? No, why did I go for Magicool Triple 180 (540mm)? Because this is Overclock.net, nothing is overkill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you changed the 360 for the 540? no no no, you ADD the 540
Click to expand...

^Sounds so much better :'D


----------



## CiBi

I have a few questions guys, I'll be rebuilding my rig in a few weeks and I'm considering using clear tubing and coloured coolant instead of coloured tubing and DeMi water

I'm thinking about using Mayhems Pastel Ice White because it looks so good!!!



1) How long does Mayhems Pastel last? I've heard some very bad things about the Aurora coolant... I want to use it in my rig for at least 6 months.

2) Do I still need a silver coil in my loop or is the Mayhems Pastel on its own enough to not have things growing in my loop?

3) How much would I need? This is the most important question since I have absolutely no idea. My loop will contain an EK LTX block, an regular thickness 360mm radiator, a pump and a 250mm tube reservoir (Phobya Balancer 250)
I'm guessing 1liter might not be enough so 2 liters?


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Is one 120mm radiator enough for cooling CPU ?


Depends on the freq and voltage of the CPU and the rad used.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> flushing atm..


I've seen those filters before, buut do you really need two? I also like that reinforced hose. How good is it as not kinking?


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I've seen those filters before, buut do you really need two? *I also like that reinforced hose. How good is it as not kinking? *


Looks like the Watts tubing you can get at Lowe's or Home Depot. I've used it a few times and it is definitely hard to kink. (I was using 3/8 x 5/8). If I remember it was pretty inexpensive too. The negative, as is so common with other tubing today, is that it clouded (plasticizer) rather quickly. Otherwise an excellent choice for a "got to have it today" situation.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I've seen those filters before, buut do you really need two? *I also like that reinforced hose. How good is it as not kinking? *
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the Watts tubing you can get at Lowe's or Home Depot. I've used it a few times and it is definitely hard to kink. (I was using 3/8 x 5/8). If I remember it was pretty inexpensive too. The negative, as is so common with other tubing today, is that it clouded (plasticizer) rather quickly. Otherwise an excellent choice for a "got to have it today" situation.
Click to expand...

Ya I figured it does cloud but I'm not a big rice/bling person so as long as it performs well I'd be happy. Definitely what I'll be getting it if the Durelene I bought turns out to be to flimsy (1/2 X 5/8)


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I have a few questions guys, I'll be rebuilding my rig in a few weeks and I'm considering using clear tubing and coloured coolant instead of coloured tubing and DeMi water
> I'm thinking about using Mayhems Pastel Ice White because it looks so good!!!
> 
> 1) How long does Mayhems Pastel last? I've heard some very bad things about the Aurora coolant... I want to use it in my rig for at least 6 months.
> 2) Do I still need a silver coil in my loop or is the Mayhems Pastel on its own enough to not have things growing in my loop?
> 3) How much would I need? This is the most important question since I have absolutely no idea. My loop will contain an EK LTX block, an regular thickness 360mm radiator, a pump and a 250mm tube reservoir (Phobya Balancer 250)
> I'm guessing 1liter might not be enough so 2 liters?


1. Pastels will last about 3 years if setup correctly, you need a nutral PH.

2. No silver is needed with Pastel. It contains everything needed.

3. My sig rig took less then 1litre. I still have 250ml made up spare in the original bottle.

Hope this helps ya.


----------



## Hokies83

Err.. Very red..

This Cosmos 2 is temp saving for a Case Labs TH 10.
Anywho... Apongee Drive II Monsta Nexxos 240 80mm in the bottom and Swifttech 240 with built in res up top.



Custom window i install on Cosmos 2.


----------



## TwiggLe

Just got my XSPC kit setup.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I've seen those filters before, buut do you really need two? I also like that reinforced hose. How good is it as not kinking?


Technically, I wouldn't need two, I just decided to go with two because the filters were so cheap; like 4 bucks a piece. Plus you can never be too careful! I just let the pump run for a couple days at full power, while shaking the system out every couple of hours to make sure I get all the flux and what not out of the radiators. You can see particulates in the filter matter of fact. I definitely recommend this flushing technique for every loop before fully setting it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Looks like the Watts tubing you can get at Lowe's or Home Depot. I've used it a few times and it is definitely hard to kink. (I was using 3/8 x 5/8). If I remember it was pretty inexpensive too. The negative, as is so common with other tubing today, is that it clouded (plasticizer) rather quickly. Otherwise an excellent choice for a "got to have it today" situation.


You are correct sir! It was 8 bucks usd for 10ft of it. Super stiff, plasticizes rather easily, and is sometimes a pain to correct leaks with barb fittings as it is so stiff. Had to run 4 zipties on one barb on the filter lol. Either way, it's a cheap tubing to use to flush out radiators.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 1. Pastels will last about 3 years if setup correctly, you need a nutral PH.
> 2. No silver is needed with Pastel. It contains everything needed.
> 3. My sig rig took less then 1litre. I still have 250ml made up spare in the original bottle.
> Hope this helps ya.


Thx, +REP








My res will be a lot bigger thou, but Mayhems Pastel costs 25$ per litre here and as a poor student I really can't afford buying a litre too much.

Does anyone know if I could dilute Mayhems Pastel a little if it turns out that 1 litre is just not enough?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Thx, +REP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My res will be a lot bigger thou, but Mayhems Pastel costs 25$ per litre here and as a poor student I really can't afford buying a litre too much.
> Does anyone know if I could dilute Mayhems Pastel a little if it turns out that 1 litre is just not enough?


It shouldn't be a problem if using DI water









There is a Mayhems Official users club which you can ask any and all related questions.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> It shouldn't be a problem if using DI water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a Mayhems Official users club which you can ask any and all related questions.


Thank you didn't know that. +REP again!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> you changed the 360 for the 540? no no no, you ADD the 540


You forget I have a Raven case;



Keeping the Dual 180mm rad was not in the equation, there's no way to fit it inside, and I didn't like having any external rad, so I sold it, plus this 540mm is already overkill enough for my setup.









I did try adding a 120mm rad on top exhaust fan but that made no difference and it made the rig look uglier so I removed it, adding more rads didn't make any differente to my temps.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> You forget I have a Raven case;
> 
> Keeping the Dual 180mm rad was not in the equation, there's no way to fit it inside, and I didn't like having any external rad, so I sold it, plus this 540mm is already overkill enough for my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did try adding a 120mm rad on top exhaust fan but that made no difference and it made the rig look uglier so I removed it, adding more rads didn't make any differente to my temps.


I understand









360mm rad didn't fit in my case but that didn't stop me...



Anyway, I'm moving to a switch 810 in a couple of weeks anyway.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quick question; I will be using 1/2 inch OD clear tubing for my build and I am thinking either blue or purple coolant. However I recently discovered this stuff http://www.techflex.com/prod_cxn.asp which would allow me to cover the tubes in - effectively - chrome and I could remove it later if I didn't like it. Has anybody used it yet and was the effect worth it? It only works out at just over £3 a metre.


----------



## dark7721

hi not sure if any of you have done a build in the new nzxt phantom 820 yet but what is the space between the top and the top plasic bit can you fit a rad in there ? or dose the rad have to go inside case and fans between the to and the top plasic ? thanks for any help


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> hi not sure if any of you have done a build in the new nzxt phantom 820 yet but what is the space between the top and the top plasic bit can you fit a rad in there ? or dose the rad have to go inside case and fans between the to and the top plasic ? thanks for any help


You might want to check out the Phantom 820 club thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1319549/official-nzxt-phantom-820-case-club

And the build logs.

Quick answer to your question is:

The fans go on top of the rad, which goes inside the case.

There's about 70mm of clearance above the mobo to where the rad mounts.

If you want a push-pull fan setup, you'll need to use a rad no more than 45mm thick.

Native support is for a 360 for 120 sized fans, and 280 for 140 sized fans.

Trying to get a 420 in would take serious modding.

Darlene


----------



## dark7721

Thats grate thanks *darlene* you have giving all the info i count find thanks again









I could find the rad that fit but not if there was room up to for them thanks again


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socks keep you warm*
> 
> Depends on the freq and voltage of the CPU and the rad used.


this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Heat-Exchanger-Radiator-For-PC-CPU-CO2-Laser-Water-Cool-System-Computer-/170900712317?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item27ca79eb7d


----------



## kyismaster

things from ebay kinda scare me when it comes to watercooling

most of the time you pay for going cheap, I rather not take the risks of water lol, the damage is catastrophic


----------



## KaRLiToS

*Never* buy an Aluminium Radiator.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *Never* buy an Aluminium Radiator.


This.

I mean,really? An Alu rad?


----------



## King4x4

Galavinc corrosion alert!


----------



## Janac

What about Airplex XT 360 ?

Can i use two rad. so this ALU 120mm and this 360mm? Will it be enough to cool 3570k at 5GHz with this pump and EK Supreme LTX CSQ?


----------



## King4x4

Never mix aluminum with any other metals in a loop.

It will destroy the whole loop.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> What about Airplex XT 360 ?
> Can i use two rad. so this ALU 120mm and this 360mm? Will it be enough to cool 3570k at 5GHz with this pump and EK Supreme LTX CSQ?


no, its going to rott from the inside out, are you even listening?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Never mix aluminum with any other metals in a loop.
> It will destroy the whole loop.
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


this

edit:

from my build log




im waiting on extensions, so i'll finish the cable management later.

also waiting for some fans to go on sale so i can replace all 6 of them


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> no, its going to rott from the inside out, are you even listening?
> this
> edit:
> from my build log
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im waiting on extensions, so i'll finish the cable management later.
> also waiting for some fans to go on sale so i can replace all 6 of them


what lighting kit is that?


----------



## NomNomNom

Kyis, what type of T fitting are you using?


----------



## Janac

So will be this Airplex XT 360 Enough? Will be pump enough?

And amazing machine.

THANKS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> what lighting kit is that?


Phobya 72 LED UV
this thing is bright as hell, and its UV
I could only imagine how much other colors will blind the case lol
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_834&products_id=31799

*edit: the other colors are so bright in real life they look like a damn light saber.*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Kyis, what type of T fitting are you using?


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/3blnybaeqtee.html

this except white.

with koolance clamps.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_953_954&products_id=25627
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> So will be this Airplex XT 360 Enough? Will be pump enough?
> And amazing machine.
> THANKS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR


Yes, i don't see why not.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*


are the VRMs still hot with that block? (or is it just the blcok that looks hot







)


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> are the VRMs still hot with that block? (or is it just the blcok that looks hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


sadly yes, they aren't making good contact atm, i might need to cut a copper block out to bridge the gap one day.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> sadly yes, they aren't making good contact atm, i might need to cut a copper block out to bridge the gap one day.


how big is that gap? shouldn't the thermal pad suffice for that? (maybe the screws are not properly tightened or do not fit properly the block?)

also, maybe you should consider adding a bottom fan. (airflow might help the VRM cooling with that block)


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> sadly yes, they aren't making good contact atm, i might need to cut a copper block out to bridge the gap one day.


isnt that a full cover block? you should be fine with vrm temps now.

my vrm temps on my heatkiller block are always a few degrees cooler than the actual gpu.

whats it say on aida64?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> how big is that gap? shouldn't the thermal pad suffice for that? (maybe the screws are not properly tightened or do not fit properly the block?)
> also, maybe you should consider adding a bottom fan. (airflow might help the VRM cooling with that block)


its like a 2-3mm gap, it didn't come with a pad for the vrms and performance pc's didn't do crap when I told them it was missing, so i had to make my own.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> isnt that a full cover block? you should be fine with vrm temps now.
> my vrm temps on my heatkiller block are always a few degrees cooler than the actual gpu.
> whats it say on aida64?


im using gpuz and it says 34c idle but 70c load (( bitcoining ))


----------



## Fatal1ty1984




----------



## animal0307

Here you go Kyi, Just for you.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *Never* buy an Aluminium Radiator.


I'm not a water cooler just yet but I've been reading up a lot on the subject and I can definitely agree!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Here you go Kyi, Just for you.


wow you really cleaned that thing up, last time i saw it , it looked torched lol


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Here you go Kyi, Just for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow you really cleaned that thing up, last time i saw it , it looked torched lol
Click to expand...

Ya it was pretty tarnished when I got my hands on it. Took 10 minutes of soaking and sbrubbing with toothbruch in some lemon juice and a pinch of salt. now it's ready to go again.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ya it was pretty tarnished when I got my hands on it. Took 10 minutes of soaking and sbrubbing with toothbruch in some lemon juice and a pinch of salt. now it's ready to go again.


temps looking as you expected? not bad for how much you paid for it.


----------



## adamski07

SOON! Project Prodigious

Water cooling parts on my build log.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ya it was pretty tarnished when I got my hands on it. Took 10 minutes of soaking and sbrubbing with toothbruch in some lemon juice and a pinch of salt. now it's ready to go again.


I swear by hot sauce. Made my copper EK Supreme come out looking almost brand new


----------



## wermad

Lemon juice

Ketchup

Tarnix

Used these on copper to remove tarnish


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamski07*
> 
> SOON! Project Prodigious
> Water cooling parts on my build log.


finish damn you, stop this flood of drool.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> how big is that gap? shouldn't the thermal pad suffice for that? (maybe the screws are not properly tightened or do not fit properly the block?)
> also, maybe you should consider adding a bottom fan. (airflow might help the VRM cooling with that block)


Hmm, Is 75c vrms overclocked bad?

to me thats bad, if thats good, then i'll just keep it like that.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Hmm, Is 75c vrms overclocked bad?
> to me thats bad, if thats good, then i'll just keep it like that.


my 7970 at 1.2ghz VRMs are at 33c

gotta get on that soon man!


----------



## LuckyNumber13

finally started putting my comp together now that
i got most of the parts .. my ram is first..




yeah there was a casualty of war.lol..gotta buy new sniper series ram now
..there goes 50 bucks..oh well.. next time i'll take more time removing.
and i'm going to clean them with a lint free cloth








next is removing my z77 sabertooth armor and airbrushing it and
replacing the z77 chipset heatsink with waterblock. wish me luck lol..


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Hmm, Is 75c vrms overclocked bad?
> to me thats bad, if thats good, then i'll just keep it like that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> my 7970 at 1.2ghz VRMs are at 33c
> gotta get on that soon man!




i don't really understand what im looking at, this is a non-reference card btw


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i don't really understand what im looking at, this is a non-reference card btw


reference card or not, aida64 is the best.

here's mine:


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Hmm, Is 75c vrms overclocked bad?
> to me thats bad, if thats good, then i'll just keep it like that.


Its pretty bad







My 5870 while bitcoin mining hits around 65c on the vrm's with no heatsinks on them


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> reference card or not, aida64 is the best.
> here's mine:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> reference card or not, aida64 is the best.
> here's mine:




its the same thing


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> finally started putting my comp together now that
> i got most of the parts .. my ram is first..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah there was a casualty of war.lol..gotta buy new sniper series ram now
> ..there goes 50 bucks..oh well.. next time i'll take more time removing.
> and i'm going to clean them with a lint free cloth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> next is removing my z77 sabertooth armor and airbrushing it and
> replacing the z77 chipset heatsink with waterblock. wish me luck lol..


dude. that sucks.

next time, hit the ram modules with a heat gun - trust me.

you may burn your hands a bit removing the stock heatsinks but they'll come off like butter compared to ripping the memory chips off the modules


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its the same thing


i realize its the same temp - what i was talking about is Aida is the best all around temp monitoring program. either way im suggesting you should fix your vrm temps asap. i'd order some more thermal pads if i were you. crazy that alphacool did not include them with the waterblock. disappointing.

EDIT: i'd get these.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11631/thr-84/Fujipoly_Premium_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_14_Sheet_-_150_x_100_x_05_-_Thermal_Conductivity_60_WmK.html?tl=g8c487

i've got them before, and they worked great. until i decided to just use thermal compound on vrm chips from now on and not pads.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> i realize its the same temp - what i was talking about is Aida is the best all around temp monitoring program. either way im suggesting you should fix your vrm temps asap. i'd order some more thermal pads if i were you. crazy that alphacool did not include them with the waterblock. disappointing.
> EDIT: i'd get these.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11631/thr-84/Fujipoly_Premium_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_14_Sheet_-_150_x_100_x_05_-_Thermal_Conductivity_60_WmK.html?tl=g8c487
> i've got them before, and they worked great. until i decided to just use thermal compound on vrm chips from now on and not pads.


well yeah great, but no.

I already put thermal pads on the vrms, putting more or different pads won't really do much if its not making good contact anyways.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> well yeah great, but no.
> I already put thermal pads on the vrms, putting more or different pads won't really do much if its not making good contact anyways.


attitude? only trying to help dude.

back when i had gtx 460's, i had EK blocks on them and the specs said 0.5mm thick pads were required. well it wasn't enough. ended up having to stack pads on top of each other for them to make contact with the block.

my only guess is that's the case for your card - seeing as it's non reference.

that, or you gotta lemon card.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> attitude? only trying to help dude.
> back when i had gtx 460's, i had EK blocks on them and the specs said 0.5mm thick pads were required. well it wasn't enough. ended up having to stack pads on top of each other for them to make contact with the block.
> my only guess is that's the case for your card - seeing as it's non reference.
> that, or you gotta lemon card.


its a 2-3mm gap.

I might as well stack copper tape and a thermal pad. lol

stock vrms are 2mm thick pads and 1mm mem pads.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> its a 2-3mm gap.
> I might as well stack copper tape and a thermal pad. lol


holy crap lol.

yeah.... did you know that going into the deciding to watercool it?

that's a crazy gap - but check it out, i had to do the saaame thing with my gtx 460s

i stacked them up 4 times = ~2mm thick

it worked though.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> holy crap lol.
> yeah.... did you know that going into the deciding to watercool it?
> that's a crazy gap - but check it out, i had to do the saaame thing with my gtx 460s
> i stacked them up 4 times = ~2mm thick
> it worked though.


smarter option probably would be this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16880/thr-165/Fujipoly_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_14_Sheet_-_150_x_100_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290

edit:
but buying thermal pads without know if it will help or not just seems like a waste.

22 dollars is the cost of 1/3rd of a new block.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> smarter option probably would be this
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16880/thr-165/Fujipoly_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_14_Sheet_-_150_x_100_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290


i'd get on it then


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> its a 2-3mm gap.
> I might as well stack copper tape and a thermal pad. lol
> stock vrms are 2mm thick pads and 1mm mem pads.


you can try this as well.. i just got it for my Ram-33 and it's almost
like working with silly puddy..you can just buy some and jam it in there to fill in
the gap.
http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/sarcon-thermal-pad-builder-value-size-150-x-100-x-1-6wmk/


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> you can try this as well.. i just got it for my Ram-33 and it's almost
> like working with silly puddy..you can just buy some and jam it in there to fill in
> the gap
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/sarcon-thermal-pad-builder-value-size-150-x-100-x-1-6wmk/


whew, thats exspensive lol,

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16880/thr-165/Fujipoly_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_14_Sheet_-_150_x_100_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> temps looking as you expected? not bad for how much you paid for it.


Not sure yet. I just hope it out performs my Accelero Extreme + VRM R5 combo. Never about 60 on the core even at 1050 @ 1.35v and the VRMs stayed under 70 with the VRM R5. I think I may have a few weeks until I can start running water. I have to finish my build first.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I swear by hot sauce. Made my copper EK Supreme come out looking almost brand new


Lemon juice and salt was the first thing Google came up with for me so I gave it a shot. Works perfect so I doubt I will try anything else.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Hmm, Is 75c vrms overclocked bad?
> to me thats bad, if thats good, then i'll just keep it like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Its pretty bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 5870 while bitcoin mining hits around 65c on the vrm's with no heatsinks on them
Click to expand...

I call hacks unless your 5870 is still on stock ref cooling which does contact the VRMS btw. That was the one thing the stock cooler was decent at, was cooling the VRM's. The after market VRM cooler on the Accelero was a joke. It was terrible beyond all belief. They hit 105C on stock clocks even with the fans turned all the way up. I can't image the VRM's on a 5870 running cool without a heatsink.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Two questions.
1. Can anyone suggest a waterblock for the z77 chipset.
2. If i don't replace z77 chipset heatsink with waterblock
then i'm going to airbrush it for sure . .would that cause any
heat dissipation issues (ie. heat being trapped between paint
and heatsink not being able to make good heat exchange past paint)


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Two questions.
> 1. Can anyone suggest a waterblock for the z77 chipset.
> 2. If i don't replace z77 chipset heatsink with waterblock
> then i'm going to airbrush it for sure . .would that cause any
> heat dissipation issues (ie. heat being trapped between paint
> and heatsink not being able to make good heat exchange past paint)


the best choice in my opinion:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27834:faf7b7ba6a9ed631166c71b62d530b2b



i already plan on getting this block for my z77 stinger.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> holy crap lol.
> yeah.... did you know that going into the deciding to watercool it?
> that's a crazy gap - but check it out, i had to do the saaame thing with my gtx 460s
> i stacked them up 4 times = ~2mm thick
> it worked though.




fixed, and didn't even have to spend a cent.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> fixed, and didn't even have to spend a cent.


54 is a bit high, but much better than 75.

what did you do?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 54 is a bit high, but much better than 75.
> what did you do?


one of the VRM's didn't have a pad.



right side circle hole.





i am dissapointed that it did not come with the necessary pads.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Lemon juice and salt was the first thing Google came up with for me so I gave it a shot. Works perfect so I doubt I will try anything else.


I remembered when I was younger my dad showed me cleaning a dirty penny with hot sauce. Figured it would translate to a waterblock since they are both copper. I was really impressed with how well it came out


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> fixed, and didn't even have to spend a cent.


What are your temps if you put 1.3v thru the thing?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> What are your temps if you put 1.3v thru the thing?


lol, my volt control only goes upto 1.2 can't manually pull it higher.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*


Looks familiar


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol, my volt control only goes upto 1.2 can't manually pull it higher.


That's odd, are you using trixx? It should let you pull it to 1.3


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Looks familiar










yes, you did get honorable mentions in the log.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> That's odd, are you using trixx? It should let you pull it to 1.3


trixx lets me pull my core to 1.2v but my core mhz to 1500 LOL

derp double post


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> trixx lets me pull my core to 1.2v but my core mhz to 1500 LOL
> derp double post


I had to use multiple programs to get my voltage past 1.2v. Trixx would let me pull it above 1.2v, and I had to use Afterburner to get the core/mem clocks higher.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> I had to use multiple programs to get my voltage past 1.2v. Trixx would let me pull it above 1.2v, and I had to use Afterburner to get the core/mem clocks higher.


I think 1.2 is ok.

20% factory, so they can't say I went out of bounds if it frys lol


----------



## NomNomNom

Is it a sapphire 950mhz edition? Thats the card thats shipping to me soon!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Is it a sapphire 950mhz edition? Thats the card thats shipping to me soon!


eyup

if you want I'd sell you this block for 80 shipped.


----------



## NomNomNom

Well i might buy it if i can see what temps it pulls on the vrms when at 1.3v, i like to pump volts into my cards heh


----------



## NomNomNom

Also why are you selling the block already? Didnt you just get it?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Also why are you selling the block already? Didnt you just get it?


Yeah.

I want to try the crop circles.


----------



## NomNomNom

If you can somehow get to test higher voltages on it, i'd gladly take it from you at a later date


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> If you can somehow get to test higher voltages on it, i'd gladly take it from you at a later date


lol fine.


----------



## Hokies83

Well i posted these afew pages back..

This is inside a Cosmos 2.. haete this case its rad support is horrid for 350$..

Getting a Case labs TH10 with 84mm raised roof Tax Time







gonna throw 4 480 Nexxos Monsta 480 rads into it. and still keep my 2 240s i have now.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol fine.


Mmm, 68c vrms 50c core toasty.


----------



## NomNomNom

At 1.2v? During furmark?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> At 1.2v? During furmark?


doing boincing on [email protected] (( which is godly intense on the VRMS LOL, more so than any program I have ever seen ))

at, max V whatever that is.

at 1.2v i was getting somewhere closer to 63c vrms.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well i posted these afew pages back..
> This is inside a Cosmos 2.. haete this case its rad support is horrid for 350$..
> Getting a Case labs TH10 with 84mm raised roof Tax Time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna throw 4 480 Nexxos Monsta 480 rads into it. and still keep my 2 240s i have now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


clean your camera lens and take a pic of it with normal lights on lol
looks good, how you like that apogee drive II?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Mmm, 68c vrms 50c core toasty.


something is not right with your card.

here's mine right now being monitored with afterburner..


your core temp should be much lower.


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I think 1.2 is ok.
> 20% factory, so they can't say I went out of bounds if it frys lol


Actually, now that I think about it, I think Trixx let me do 1.2, and all I could get before was like 1.1 or something like that. I can't remember, my PC has been in a box for 3 months now :-[


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> clean your camera lens and take a pic of it with normal lights on lol
> looks good, how you like that apogee drive II?
> something is not right with your card.
> here's mine right now being monitored with afterburner..
> 
> your core temp should be much lower.


son, thats at 100% load.









my card idles 32c all day.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> son, thats at 100% load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my card idles 32c all day.


it's been at 100% load, at 45c

look above the graphs, it says min and max for that current session.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> doing boincing on [email protected] (( which is godly intense on the VRMS LOL, more so than any program I have ever seen ))
> at, max V whatever that is.
> at 1.2v i was getting somewhere closer to 63c vrms.


okay. just signed up to BOINC









what project are you on?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> it's been at 100% load, at 45c
> look above the graphs, it says min and max for that current session.


43c atm for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> okay. just signed up to BOINC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what project are you on?


donate @ home.

it was pressing my vrms at 75c before i fixed it lol

and 83c before that.

your core temps will be fine, but lol, watch your vrms rise like the moon


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 43c atm for me.
> donate @ home.
> it was pressing my vrms at 75c before i fixed it lol
> and 83c before that.
> your core temps will be fine, but lol, watch your vrms rise like the moon


well i cant find donate @ home so im on docking @ home for team overclock.net









guess this has started my official folding!


----------



## NomNomNom

I might just go with a koolance block though, they have active cooling on the vrms


----------



## Hokies83

Anybody make any kits to mount a 80 mm 480 rad on the outside? i do not mind screwing holes in my side door.


----------



## DragonCypher

Some unfortunate updates for my recent upgrade..

EVGA FTW3 mobo and i7 950 went in + the 3 Palit 660ti's with XSPC razor 670 waterblocks
I took the acrylic/xspc logo off the blocks to find they fit just fine without it, no need to cut anything up just can't have the pretty LED lights in there.

So that all went well, I hooked up the loop, filled it and found no leaks within an hour so I booted up.
Error message 'BOOTMGR not found'

Tried for hours before giving in to the microsoft overlords and reinstalling Windows, which meant formatting my C drive -.-

Into windows, all looks good and I set up the download for nvidia drivers before going to bed since our net was going really slow and it estimated an hour to download.

I was woken up thismorning by a friend saying i had water dripping onto the top graphics card.. sure enough about 60ml had slowly dripped out and fried the card leaving green/white residue everywhere on the back of the PCB.. some got into the PCIe slot of the mobo, and then dripped down to both other PCIe slots
Yet somehow the computer was still turned on and in Windows..

I shut her down, walked outside and drained all the water, pulled the GPU's back out and got to work with a toothbrush and 99% methylated spirits..
Currently everything looks brand new again except for a few slightly discoloured pins on the PCIe connectors, but nothing that should prevent good contact.

Still kinda scared to put it back together though >.>


----------



## teamrushpntball

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*
> 
> Some unfortunate updates for my recent upgrade..
> EVGA FTW3 mobo and i7 950 went in + the 3 Palit 660ti's with XSPC razor 670 waterblocks
> I took the acrylic/xspc logo off the blocks to find they fit just fine without it, no need to cut anything up just can't have the pretty LED lights in there.
> So that all went well, I hooked up the loop, filled it and found no leaks within an hour so I booted up.
> Error message 'BOOTMGR not found'
> Tried for hours before giving in to the microsoft overlords and reinstalling Windows, which meant formatting my C drive -.-
> Into windows, all looks good and I set up the download for nvidia drivers before going to bed since our net was going really slow and it estimated an hour to download.
> I was woken up thismorning by a friend saying i had water dripping onto the top graphics card.. sure enough about 60ml had slowly dripped out and fried the card leaving green/white residue everywhere on the back of the PCB.. some got into the PCIe slot of the mobo, and then dripped down to both other PCIe slots
> Yet somehow the computer was still turned on and in Windows..
> I shut her down, walked outside and drained all the water, pulled the GPU's back out and got to work with a toothbrush and 99% methylated spirits..
> Currently everything looks brand new again except for a few slightly discoloured pins on the PCIe connectors, but nothing that should prevent good contact.





Still kinda scared to put it back together though >.>

Goodluck, hope it all still lives.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*
> 
> Some unfortunate updates for my recent upgrade..
> EVGA FTW3 mobo and i7 950 went in + the 3 Palit 660ti's with XSPC razor 670 waterblocks
> I took the acrylic/xspc logo off the blocks to find they fit just fine without it, no need to cut anything up just can't have the pretty LED lights in there.
> So that all went well, I hooked up the loop, filled it and found no leaks within an hour so I booted up.
> Error message 'BOOTMGR not found'
> Tried for hours before giving in to the microsoft overlords and reinstalling Windows, which meant formatting my C drive -.-
> Into windows, all looks good and I set up the download for nvidia drivers before going to bed since our net was going really slow and it estimated an hour to download.
> I was woken up thismorning by a friend saying i had water dripping onto the top graphics card.. sure enough about 60ml had slowly dripped out and fried the card leaving green/white residue everywhere on the back of the PCB.. some got into the PCIe slot of the mobo, and then dripped down to both other PCIe slots
> Yet somehow the computer was still turned on and in Windows..
> I shut her down, walked outside and drained all the water, pulled the GPU's back out and got to work with a toothbrush and 99% methylated spirits..
> Currently everything looks brand new again except for a few slightly discoloured pins on the PCIe connectors, but nothing that should prevent good contact.
> Still kinda scared to put it back together though >.>


it's good that you brushed it all off, it would have corroded.

but thats a sad story man.
that happened to me with my 7970 when i changed my ram; my ram block fitting leaked right on the pcb. it sucked.

i would say MAKE SURE everything is 100% dry.
hell, dump a bag of rice in the computer and let it sit for a day lol jk

you fried the top card, no way around it. you may have saved the others but who knows.

btw, you never ever walk away from a freshly built watercooled rig.
im sure you learned that now.


----------



## soul801

WOW! very true words. I'm in my rig almost 4K! lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And thats what you get for leak testing for an hour.......

8 hrs minimum for leak testing.

VRM's are good to around 100c,70c is average,you wont damage them going up that high.

My Trifire 670 FTW's max at 34c on the core......

Methylated spirit is NOT isopropynol alcohol and could damage the board or leave a residue,not advised.


----------



## Fonne

Is there any new fans out, thats beat the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm - Low noise is very important ?

(Love how the Noiseblocker NB-eLoop 120mm looks, but dont think they will perform like Gentle Typhoon)

This is what I am looking on:

Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Single 120mm
+
2x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm - 1150 rpm (Push/Pull)


----------



## FlashGordon

I　am on the way to Steampunk-style PC mod,,,



it will take a lot of time i think...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any new fans out, thats beat the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm - Low noise is very important ?
> 
> (Love how the Noiseblocker NB-eLoop 120mm looks, but dont think they will perform like Gentle Typhoon)
> 
> This is what I am looking on:
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Single 120mm
> +
> 2x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm - 1150 rpm (Push/Pull)


Corsair SP fans.

I have both and the SP's edge it.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Corsair SP fans.
> I have both and the SP's edge it.


This one ?

http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/air-series-fans/air-series-sp120-high-performance-edition-high-static-pressure-120mm-fan.html
- 62.74 CFM
- 3.1 mm/H20
- 35 dBA
- 2350 RPM

35 dBA just seems really high to me, but if it still works well with only 7v that could do it maybe


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And thats what you get for leak testing for an hour.......
> 8 hrs minimum for leak testing.
> .


I really need to force my self to do this as well, every time I change something in the loop I end up doing 1-2 hours of leak testing at most, sometimes not even an hour.









Luckily I've never had a leak yet, but after reading that I will definitely look into doing proper leak testing tomorrow when I replace my tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And thats what you get for leak testing for an hour.......
> 8 hrs minimum for leak testing.
> .
> 
> 
> 
> I really need to force my self to do this as well, every time I change something in the loop I end up doing 1-2 hours of leak testing at most, sometimes not even an hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily I've never had a leak yet, but after reading that I will definitely look into doing proper leak testing tomorrow when I replace my tubing.
Click to expand...

I leak tested my SR2 for 24hrs,£2100 of board and CPU's makes you paranoid.

Seeping fittings wont be noticed for a while,best be safe.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I leak tested my SR2 for 24hrs,£2100 of board and CPU's makes you paranoid.
> Seeping fittings wont be noticed for a while,best be safe.


I usually leak test overnight... also triple check all my fittings.


----------



## Fonne

Thanks for all the help from this great community


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I leak tested my SR2 for 24hrs,£2100 of board and CPU's makes you paranoid.
> Seeping fittings wont be noticed for a while,best be safe.


I used to do leak testing overnight for +8 hours when I first got into water cooling 6 months ago, not anymore though, I really need to start doing that again...


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I used to do leak testing overnight for +8 hours when I first got into water cooling 6 months ago, not anymore though, I really need to start doing that again...


As much money we are all putting into these machines you would think we would be more careful. You would think after setting up your WC system and taking it apart for the 100th time you should be safe, but most of the leak issues tend to be hardware related; Something as simple as replacing the o ring or a rotary failure seems to be the most common. I was paranoid this go around triple checked all my fittings and leak tested. I've been stable for 3 days and still keep checking for leaks. Im not use to all the Rotaries.


----------



## Janac

What is wrong with ALU radiators? I really cant use it?


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> What is wrong with ALU radiators? I really cant use it?


Copper mixed with aluminum will corrode. Most blocks are copper so the ALU rad would be a huge issue.


----------



## Willhemmens

Where da pics at?

Too much talkytalky.

Anyways here's an old photo, taken on my old camera, no longer have that case, waiting for the 900D.



Ehh, OCN isn't what it used to be, all this about Martin and I'm not even allow to use my own high res images? If I wanted to show low res images I wouldn't have bought an Canon 60D. OCN was once a great, simple place but it appears that it's grown too big and they're changing the site for the worse, shame.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> As much money we are all putting into these machines you would think we would be more careful. You would think after setting up your WC system and taking it apart for the 100th time you should be safe, but most of the leak issues tend to be hardware related; Something as simple as replacing the o ring or a rotary failure seems to be the most common. I was paranoid this go around triple checked all my fittings and leak tested. I've been stable for 3 days and still keep checking for leaks. Im not use to all the Rotaries.


Agreed. Even though the last time I re-did the loop, about a week ago, I only leak tested for like an hour, but it's been fine since then, and even then, I check few times a day all the fittings to make sure they're all dry and don't show any sign of leaking.









But yeah, next time (Probably tomorrow) when I replace tubing, I will do a proper leak testing.


----------



## TwiggLe

I have a question... What's the best way to try and remove all the water from your WC setup without creating a huge mess heh.

I'm assuming removing all the pieces then emptying it outside the case?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> I have a question... What's the best way to try and remove all the water from your WC setup without creating a huge mess heh.
> I'm assuming removing all the pieces then emptying it outside the case?


Build in a drain port and drain from there. Then go through each block carefully, water is always in there.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> I have a question... What's the best way to try and remove all the water from your WC setup without creating a huge mess heh.
> I'm assuming removing all the pieces then emptying it outside the case?


If that's feasible, then yes, that would be a great way to drain. In my case though, I have tubing running behind the mobo tray and through grommets and whatnot so that's not possible for me. I have a T-block after my pump and run an extra ~2 feet with a plug at the end to use as a drain line. I think that's probably the most common method of draining. It works pretty well but doesn't get 100% of that water out. I normally just focus on trying to get the water out of the blocks and top radiator first then remove the tube and plug them so any left over water doesn't spill out.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> What is wrong with ALU radiators? I really cant use it?


Here are some pics of what happens when copper and aluminum are in the same loop....


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> well i cant find donate @ home so im on docking @ home for team overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess this has started my official folding!


http://donateathome.org/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> I have a question... What's the best way to try and remove all the water from your WC setup without creating a huge mess heh.
> I'm assuming removing all the pieces then emptying it outside the case?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Build in a drain port and drain from there. Then go through each block carefully, water is always in there.


a drain looks like this


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> I have a question... What's the best way to try and remove all the water from your WC setup without creating a huge mess heh.
> 
> I'm assuming removing all the pieces then emptying it outside the case?


Pull one tube off and blow down it....a lot.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull one tube off and blow down it....a lot.


Probably looks like a primitive solution, but I always do this. (while nobody looks of course







)

And Gravity


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull one tube off and blow down it....a lot.


I do this as well but have always wondered if there was a risk of blowing too hard and busting a radiator since I've heard it's possible to bust a radiator just with the water pressure from a faucet.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I do this as well but have always wondered if there was a risk of blowing too hard and busting a radiator since I've heard it's possible to bust a radiator just with the water pressure from a faucet.


I don't know your line of work, but I doubt you are that talented of a blower to burst a radiator.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I do this as well but have always wondered if there was a risk of blowing too hard and busting a radiator since I've heard it's possible to bust a radiator just with the water pressure from a faucet.


Human lungs can only push around 2-3 psi. Not strong enough to brake anything in the loop rated up to 2 BAR. (25 PSI = 1.7 BAR)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull one tube off and blow down it....a lot.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Probably looks like a primitive solution, but I always do this. (while nobody looks of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> And Gravity


I always do this, I remove the intake tubing from the Res to the pump, let the water from reservoir go into a bucket, and then blow from the tubing to the pump to push the rest of the water out through the res.

Is the pump ok by doing this? I've always done it like that.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> I don't know your line of work, but I doubt you are that talented of a blower to burst a radiator.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Human lungs can only push around 2-3 psi. Not strong enough to brake anything in the loop rated up to 2 BAR. (25 PSI = 1.7 BAR)


I didn't think it was possible, just something that was always in the back of my mind when draining


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Ehh, OCN isn't what it used to be, all this about Martin and I'm not even allow to use my own high res images? If I wanted to show low res images I wouldn't have bought an Canon 60D. OCN was once a great, simple place but it appears that it's grown too big and they're changing the site for the worse, shame.


If you're talking about the way OCN limits image sizes by default, all you have to do is cut down the URL of the embedded picture.

Code:



Code:


[IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1192573/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]

to this

[IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1192573[/IMG]


----------



## TwiggLe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://donateathome.org/
> a drain looks like this


This will be my next project then getting a "T" and doing that.

AFter reading other people's suggestions I think for now till I do that my best option will be to remove the whole system from the front 5.25" bay and then drain outside the system.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> This will be my next project then getting a "T" and doing that.
> AFter reading other people's suggestions I think for now till I do that my best option will be to remove the whole system from the front 5.25" bay and then drain outside the system.


so much easier with a T


----------



## loki_reborn

Sprung a leak three days ago from a rad fitting. Luckily I was beside the PC at the time and yanked the AC cable out.

Stripped everything, laid it out covered in rice and popped it into the airing cupboard for 24 hours.

Picked up a new roll of red tubing to replace the old stuff that was getting stiff. Stuck two of the 480 rads into the desk and plumbed it all back up.

It's not tidy or pretty but is back up and running for some LAN sessions. Seriously considering mounting the lot into the desk in the future.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Well no turning back now:



Picked this up (it's an EK XTX 360 and 3 Noctua NF-P12 btw) for $50. Not a bad deal IMO


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn*
> 
> Sprung a leak three days ago from a rad fitting. Luckily I was beside the PC at the time and yanked the AC cable out.
> Stripped everything, laid it out covered in rice and popped it into the airing cupboard for 24 hours.
> Picked up a new roll of red tubing to replace the old stuff that was getting stiff. Stuck two of the 480 rads into the desk and plumbed it all back up.
> It's not tidy or pretty but is back up and running for some LAN sessions. Seriously considering mounting the lot into the desk in the future.


sounds like a kink happened


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Well no turning back now:
> 
> 
> 
> Picked this up (it's an EK XTX 360 and 3 Noctua NF-P12 btw) for $50. Not a bad deal IMO


That is a great deal seeing how the fans alone would be $60.


----------



## Alfaa

Finished my brother's loop a couple days ago out of mostly spare parts.. The side panel doesn't fit on right, but its still a work in progress.


----------



## kyismaster

my special order from dwood just came in



i should put this on the back of my gpu backplate lol


----------



## audioholic

looks great man!!!!!









On a side note does anyone know where I can pick up a new backplate and mounting kit for the Raystorm? I went on XSPC but I cannot seem to find a way to buy it from them??


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great man!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note does anyone know where I can pick up a new backplate and mounting kit for the Raystorm? I went on XSPC but I cannot seem to find a way to buy it from them??


\

like this?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsraadkitfor.html

and for intel

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrainalbr.html

http://search.sidewindercomputers.com/search?.autodone=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sidewindercomputers.com%2Fnsearch.html&catalog=sidewindercomputers&x=0&y=0&query=raystorm


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Well no turning back now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked this up (it's an EK XTX 360 and 3 Noctua NF-P12 btw) for $50. Not a bad deal IMO


Super nice deal.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great man!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note does anyone know where I can pick up a new backplate and mounting kit for the Raystorm? I went on XSPC but I cannot seem to find a way to buy it from them??


Everything you'd need is here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_971_410_1036


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I always do this, I remove the intake tubing from the Res to the pump, let the water from reservoir go into a bucket, and then blow from the tubing to the pump to push the rest of the water out through the res.
> Is the pump ok by doing this? I've always done it like that.


Any expert on this matter?


----------



## audioholic

This is what I am looking for...just out of stock ...I must not have looked hard enough before! Thanks guys for the links.....+rep to you both








http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Intel-Mounting-kit-for-RayStorm_33642.html


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki_reborn*
> 
> Sprung a leak three days ago from a rad fitting. Luckily I was beside the PC at the time and yanked the AC cable out.
> Stripped everything, laid it out covered in rice and popped it into the airing cupboard for 24 hours.
> Picked up a new roll of red tubing to replace the old stuff that was getting stiff. Stuck two of the 480 rads into the desk and plumbed it all back up.
> It's not tidy or pretty but is back up and running for some LAN sessions. Seriously considering mounting the lot into the desk in the future.


Build the PC into the desk







how would you take it to the LAN sessions









Or are you one of these lucky people who have friends come over


----------



## audioholic

I found the stuff...just never looked through all the pictures on PPCS:doh:
Thanks guys for the links!


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Any expert on this matter?


Ive done this for awhile you are fine doing this.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I always do this, I remove the intake tubing from the Res to the pump, let the water from reservoir go into a bucket, and then blow from the tubing to the pump to push the rest of the water out through the res.
> Is the pump ok by doing this? I've always done it like that.


I do this all the time. Mayhems dye makes my lips swell though







. I make a fist and blow through the fist to avoid the tube directly


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Well no turning back now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked this up (it's an EK XTX 360 and 3 Noctua NF-P12 btw) for $50. Not a bad deal IMO


Oh yeah, awesome deal there!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> my special order from dwood just came in
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i should put this on the back of my gpu backplate lol


Very nice KY!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I do this all the time. *Mayhems dye makes my lips swell though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I make a fist and blow through the fist to avoid the tube directly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Either of these statements could be misconstrued or taken out of context when used anywhere else but here....








Mayhems should add the first statement as a label warning!


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> This is what I am looking for...just out of stock ...I must not have looked hard enough before! Thanks guys for the links.....+rep to you both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Intel-Mounting-kit-for-RayStorm_33642.html


Glad you found what you need


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> I have a question... What's the best way to try and remove all the water from your WC setup without creating a huge mess heh.
> I'm assuming removing all the pieces then emptying it outside the case?


I would remove the tube coming from the output of the pump and run the pump until there is almost no water present in the loop, this is of course cutting power to everything but the pump! Unplugging the PSU is a must!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451*
> 
> Ive done this for awhile you are fine doing this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I do this all the time. Mayhems dye makes my lips swell though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I make a fist and blow through the fist to avoid the tube directly












Thanks!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Oh yeah, awesome deal there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice KY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either of these statements could be misconstrued or taken out of context when used anywhere else but here....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems should add the first statement as a label warning!


thanks Nostrad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Oh yeah, awesome deal there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice KY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either of these statements could be misconstrued or taken out of context when used anywhere else but here....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems should add the first statement as a label warning!


Lol, i know....maybe it should not be "swallowed" too. Mayhems has warnings I believe. I guess my *initial* naive self didn't have issues with Primichill dye bombs. Possibly thought it was food coloring. Anyways, I had bought a pump for this very scenario but I good puff of air using yourself...(hehehee, careful with words, I am







) will purge some of the liquid inside the loop.

Hmmmm....maybe we need to add cocaine to our loops







. Would make it pleasant to "blow" on it (or suck it







).


Spoiler: Warning: Cocaine





*
***Warning! Do not try this in your loop! You've been warned!****



Ok, back on a lighter note...


----------



## ginger_nuts

At least when we talk about it being an addiction people would greater understand


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, i know....maybe it should not be "swallowed" too. Mayhems has warnings I believe. I guess my *initial* naive self didn't have issues with Primichill dye bombs. Possibly thought it was food coloring. Anyways, I had bought a pump for this very scenario but I good puff of air using yourself...(hehehee, careful with words, I am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) will purge some of the liquid inside the loop.
> Hmmmm....maybe we need to add cocaine to our loops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Would make it pleasant to "blow" on it (or suck it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Cocaine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> ***Warning! Do not try this in your loop! You've been warned!****
> 
> 
> Ok, back on a lighter note...


O'Lord, how we've gone astray!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Is one 120mm radiator enough for cooling CPU ?


You have thinking about 140mm rad for CPU?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Err.. Very red..
> This Cosmos 2 is temp saving for a Case Labs TH 10.
> Anywho... Apongee Drive II Monsta Nexxos 240 80mm in the bottom and Swifttech 240 with built in res up top.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom window i install on Cosmos 2.


Builder, Wow, Impossibly see Apongee Drive II in your rig..







*MMMMM* .....


----------



## kyismaster

in recent news...


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> in recent news...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Eh, I think I prefer the original design. But don't like either as well as the:


Alphacool Copper Plated I'm about to spend obscene amounts of money to replace my 20+ fittings with.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Eh, I think I prefer the original design. But don't like either as well as the:
> 
> Alphacool Copper Plated I'm about to spend obscene amounts of money to replace my 20+ fittings with.


you should get me some quick disconnects while your at it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Eh, I think I prefer the original design. But don't like either as well as the:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool Copper Plated I'm about to spend obscene amounts of money to replace my 20+ fittings with.


Sexy


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> in recent news...


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Eh, I think I prefer the original design. But don't like either as well as the:
> 
> Alphacool Copper Plated I'm about to spend obscene amounts of money to replace my 20+ fittings with.


I'm typically a Monsoon fan, but I'm just not feeling the CF comps. Now those copper Alphas on the other hand are superdelicious!








However, you kind of have to work that into a whole theme imo. (ie. no nickel blocks, fan grills in black not chrome etc.)


----------



## loki_reborn

Yup, I have the room and a 24port switch. Plus a big old fridge for beer


----------



## LayerCakes

Just finished her yesterday. Meet my beautiful new darling, Delilah. Buuilt in a HAF -X and cooled by an AlphaCool 360 x 45 and a Phobya Extreme 200.

Check out the build log! - http://www.overclock.net/t/1340593/build-log-haf-x-custom-loop-360mm-200mm-front-radiator/20#post_18944638


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I'm typically a Monsoon fan, but I'm just not feeling the CF comps. Now those copper Alphas on the other hand are superdelicious!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you kind of have to work that into a whole theme imo. (ie. no nickel blocks, fan grills in black not chrome etc.)


Oh I understand, all copper, clear plexi and black. It's my poor wallet that doesn't understand what's happening.

Looks great layercakes!


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Looks great layercakes!


Thank you!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> I'm typically a Monsoon fan, but I'm just not feeling the CF comps. Now those copper Alphas on the other hand are superdelicious!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you kind of have to work that into a whole theme imo. (ie. no nickel blocks, fan grills in black not chrome etc.)


I gotta say I find those Carbon Fiber fittings more hideous then most people find CSQ line. Not a fan at all even though I have monsoons in my build.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> in recent news...


----------



## Janac

OK. i bought the used radiator 360mm, and how can i find out if it is made of cooper?


----------



## nleksan

Haha, that guy above looks like he "Kinda want...s some Maalox"


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> OK. i bought the used radiator 360mm, and how can i find out if it is made of cooper?


Not the best way to check, I'm sure, but if you have a flashlight or pen-light, shine it into the inlet/outlet and look inside; if it has a coppery-bronze color on the interior, you're likely good to go. If it doesn't, then I'd do some further investigation.

What radiator is it? (i.e. Brand/Model)


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> OK. i bought the used radiator 360mm, and how can i find out if it is made of cooper?


What brand is it?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> in recent news...


Sorry but not for me at all









IMHO they look cheap


----------



## Tarnix

I wasn't super jawdropping either. Could work for CF-themed builds, but that's not my style.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I wasn't super jawdropping either. Could work for CF-themed builds, but that's not my style.


Next they'll be producing wood grained, stained glass, and kevlar inserts into their fittings (kidding of course)... And you know, it wouldn't surprise me if there'll be a niche market for them.


----------



## Janac

I dont know, i think it is noname.

I buy it used for 20EUR with fittings.


----------



## Janac

Some pictures.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Looks like a magicool rad.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Looks like a magicool rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


this.


----------



## Janac

So am i good to go?


----------



## MetallicAcid

Most definitely sir!


----------



## Janac

Thank you,

But if you look at the first pics there is a little damage...


----------



## Roder J

you can straighten the fins out just make sure theres no damage to the cores, fill it with water and check for leaks.. nice score !


----------



## kcuestag

Lesson learned. Always, ALWAYS do a proper leak test after filling the loop.

Today I was showing my rig to a friend when I realized my reservoir was almost empty, to my surprise, I had a leak in the intake port of the radiator as I did not put the tubing properly into the compression fitting.









Luckily the water only touched the radiator and the bottom of the case, so no component was any close to the water, but still got me really scared. Re-did it all, with a different fitting (Normal instead of 45º) and did a 4 hour leak test.

I'm glad I showed my friend the computer, else I wouldn't have noticed.









This is where it leaked from:



The tubing was a bit forced so it wasn't fit straight into the fitting, so I changed it to a straight fitting. It was a serious leak, almost 1 drop of water per second, good I realized before the reservoir emptied out completely, I wouldn't have liked running the pump with no water.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Lesson learned. Always, ALWAYS do a proper leak test after filling the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Today I was showing my rig to a friend when I realized my reservoir was almost empty, to my surprise, I had a leak in the intake port of the radiator as I did not put the tubing properly into the compression fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily the water only touched the radiator and the bottom of the case, so no component was any close to the water, but still got me really scared. Re-did it all, with a different fitting (Normal instead of 45º) and did a 4 hour leak test.
> I'm glad I showed my friend the computer, else I wouldn't have noticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where it leaked from:
> 
> The tubing was a bit forced so it wasn't fit straight into the fitting, so I changed it to a straight fitting. It was a serious leak, almost 1 drop of water per second, good I realized before the reservoir emptied out completely, I wouldn't have liked running the pump with no water.


Glad you got it sorted before any real damage was done!

My Narada build has those bitspower crystal tube fittings between the reservoirs and pumps, and those don't really have any real securement to them. I'm always stressing about them whenever I even move my rig. They're so buried it'd take all day to fix it lol.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some pictures.


I would leak test that if i were you, its kinda really dinged up lol


----------



## Crooksy

Does anyone know of any good guides on setting up watercoolilng for the first time. I watched a video by Linus at NCIX but I'd like to watch a few more before I order my parts. Any good ones you'd recommend taking a look at?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Anybody make any kits to mount a 80 mm 480 rad on the outside? i do not mind screwing holes in my side door.


I would say you should be fine with some common external rad mounting brackets. XSPC makes a good set.

These Monstas get heavy once filled with liquid. Can't wait to see your CL beast with *four* Monsta 480s!!!! I'll do fine with three Monsta 360s atm. Also waiting for Uncle Sam to return me a good chunk of change for one more upgrade







.. Gonna go push/pull on them too; that's should really make them heavy


----------



## jd2195

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Does anyone know of any good guides on setting up watercoolilng for the first time. I watched a video by Linus at NCIX but I'd like to watch a few more before I order my parts. Any good ones you'd recommend taking a look at?


Both Singularity Computers and Timetolivecustoms have good beginners guides.

Singularity Computers (part 1): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGtZiPQ8z8w
Timetolivecustoms (part 1): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6qpkigby5w&list=SPFBB470EB66059D23&index=21

Hope they help you


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Lesson learned. Always, ALWAYS do a proper leak test after filling the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Today I was showing my rig to a friend when I realized my reservoir was almost empty, to my surprise, I had a leak in the intake port of the radiator as I did not put the tubing properly into the compression fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily the water only touched the radiator and the bottom of the case, so no component was any close to the water, but still got me really scared. Re-did it all, with a different fitting (Normal instead of 45º) and did a 4 hour leak test.
> I'm glad I showed my friend the computer, else I wouldn't have noticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where it leaked from:
> 
> The tubing was a bit forced so it wasn't fit straight into the fitting, so I changed it to a straight fitting. It was a serious leak, almost 1 drop of water per second, good I realized before the reservoir emptied out completely, I wouldn't have liked running the pump with no water.[


Good to hear you caught that in time









How's the hunt for the tube coming along?


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jd2195*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Does anyone know of any good guides on setting up watercoolilng for the first time. I watched a video by Linus at NCIX but I'd like to watch a few more before I order my parts. Any good ones you'd recommend taking a look at?
> 
> 
> 
> Both Singularity Computers and Timetolivecustoms have good beginners guides.
> 
> Singularity Computers (part 1): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGtZiPQ8z8w
> Timetolivecustoms (part 1): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6qpkigby5w&list=SPFBB470EB66059D23&index=21
> 
> Hope they help you
Click to expand...

Thanks for the links, +rep


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Does anyone know of any good guides on setting up watercoolilng for the first time. I watched a video by Linus at NCIX but I'd like to watch a few more before I order my parts. Any good ones you'd recommend taking a look at?


Complete Water Cooling Guide by Dazmode - (Part 1) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmbmW-I8Bno

His accent is hard to understand sometimes but he gives good advice.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good to hear you caught that in time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's the hunt for the tube coming along?


I ordered some Masterkleer PVC clear tubing, and will just use that until Primochill decides they want to sell the Primoflex Advanced LRT in Europe.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I ordered some Masterkleer PVC clear tubing, and will just use that until Primochill decides they want to sell the Primoflex Advanced LRT in Europe.


Whats the difference between the normal LRT and the advanced?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished her yesterday. Meet my beautiful new darling, Delilah. Buuilt in a HAF -X and cooled by an AlphaCool 360 x 45 and a Phobya Extreme 200.
> Check out the build log! - http://www.overclock.net/t/1340593/build-log-haf-x-custom-loop-360mm-200mm-front-radiator/20#post_18944638


Super Awesome Modded Rig!


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Whats the difference between the normal LRT and the advanced?


Assuming the advanced fixes the issue, a whole lot of white residue in your loop.


----------



## FunBox

With all the recent drama sourounding primchill and primoflex, what do you all recommend i use for my tubing? Going to be cooling a i7-3770k on a Gigabyte GA-77X-UD3H. I also fear that my board will bottleneck my build. Is there any truth to this?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Assuming the advanced fixes the issue, a whole lot of white residue in your loop.


Oh dear.. im using PrimoFlex LRT.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Oh dear.. im using PrimoFlex LRT.


its been established for the longest time that pro LRT was a hit and miss batch lol
if your a little paranoid, you can cut a small section of your used tubing and split it down the middle to see how bad your batch is.

some people actually have pro LRT with no plasticizer.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Durelene seems to be one of the consistently best tubings as far as plasticizer issues. The Primochill Advanced is supposed to have fixed their issues but only time will tell if this is true.

As to the board limiting your oc that is doubtful. Most likely Ivy's temperature issues will be the limiting factor, at least assuming you haven't delidded your chip.

Z77 Board Review shows that your OC should be fine. Your board was right in the middle of the pack.


----------



## last-

Mine is a bit dusty. Need to clean it out. My second graphics card is coming in soon along with a new power supply. Going to put both cards under water in the near future. Should I go with clear tubing + dye or just go with coloured tubing?


----------



## wermad

Still rocking an awesome looking Duralene


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still rocking an awesome looking Duralene


Send me 2-3 meters of Durelene!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still rocking an awesome looking Duralene


same here lol.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *last-*
> 
> Mine is a bit dusty. Need to clean it out. My second graphics card is coming in soon along with a new power supply. Going to put both cards under water in the near future. Should I go with clear tubing + dye or just go with coloured tubing?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's really become personal preference now. Mayhem's makes an excellent line of products that both look spectacular and do not separate out of the fluid (Excluding Aurora, but if you complain it's seperating out it's your own fault).

The issue with colored fluid used to be that many dyes would separate out and clog the micro channels in blocks and the tubes in radiators.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Send me 2-3 meters of Durelene!


Wish shipping was cheaper







. Seems odd shipping is higher to Spain then when i shipped to Italy. Hmmmm.....I'll do a bit of research on some other shipping options.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> same here lol.


----------



## rusasus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *last-*
> 
> Mine is a bit dusty. Need to clean it out. My second graphics card is coming in soon along with a new power supply. Going to put both cards under water in the near future. Should I go with clear tubing + dye or just go with coloured tubing?


What radiator is that?


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Send me 2-3 meters of Durelene!


I'll send you 10 meters of Durelene if you'l ship my ColdZero order to me









That radiator is a Swiftech MCR220


----------



## last-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusasus*
> 
> What radiator is that?


Honestly, not 100% sure. I bought the res, cpu block, rad, barbs, and a few fans used from a friend of a friend. I think it's Swiftech MCR220-QP but then again I have absolutely no clue.


----------



## FunBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Durelene seems to be one of the consistently best tubings as far as plasticizer issues. The Primochill Advanced is supposed to have fixed their issues but only time will tell if this is true.
> As to the board limiting your oc that is doubtful. Most likely Ivy's temperature issues will be the limiting factor, at least assuming you haven't delidded your chip.
> Z77 Board Review shows that your OC should be fine. Your board was right in the middle of the pack.


Thanks for the reply, After looking at some Durelene it seems to me that it only comes in clear? I was hoping to use white tubing to avoid the problems that adding Dye to the mix can cause. Any suggestions?


----------



## kyismaster

I may have went a wee bit over budget this month.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Why add dye to white tubing? If you want white get Primochill LTR Clear and wait a few weeks.

Edit - Kyismaster I'm sure that's all Christmas gifts. It's ok if it's Christmas gifts. Just wrap them and give them to yourself.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Why add dye to white tubing? If you want white get Primochill LTR Clear and wait a few weeks.
> Edit - Kyismaster I'm sure that's all Christmas gifts. It's ok if it's Christmas gifts. Just wrap them and give them to yourself.


the thing is, the only thing to my knowledge I got this month was a gpu block, a psu, and some cases. the rest, well, I have no clue, LOL


----------



## teamrushpntball

But they were presents to someone, so it's ok. Or at least that's what I'm telling myself.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> But they were presents to someone, so it's ok. Or at least that's what I'm telling myself.


-cough-

the worse part is, I don't work, so I have no clue where all that money came from.


----------



## FunBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Why add dye to white tubing? If you want white get Primochill LTR Clear and wait a few weeks.
> Edit - Kyismaster I'm sure that's all Christmas gifts. It's ok if it's Christmas gifts. Just wrap them and give them to yourself.


I fear you may have misunderstood, I want white tubing without dye. But I can only find duralene in clear. Adding dye has as i understand causes problems with blockage


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> I fear you may have misunderstood, I want white tubing without dye. But I can only find duralene in clear. Adding dye has as i understand causes problems with blockage


try

Primochill Advanced white

heed this suggestion with a grain of salt.


----------



## FunBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> try
> Primochill Advanced white
> heed this suggestion with a grain of salt.


*
Even with all the reports of plasticizer ?
And what drain would you guys recommend to go with the XSPC Rx 240 ?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> *
> Even with all the reports of plasticizer ?
> And what drain would you guys recommend to go with the XSPC Rx 240 ?


plasticizer is for the Pro LRT not advanced.

Primochill Pro LRT

vs

Primochill Advanced.


----------



## NewHighScore

I've had no plasticizer issues with my Feser tubing and mayhems pastel.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> I fear you may have misunderstood, I want white tubing without dye. But I can only find duralene in clear. Adding dye has as i understand causes problems with blockage


I know, why I said to get the Primochill Pro LRT. It will be white soon enough


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Try to use spoiler tags if you're gonna quote more than one picture


crud, i do apologize. i have seen the spoiler tags in effect before yet i dont know how to use them... ill look it up. thx


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still rocking an awesome looking Duralene


Still rocking unblemished copper....


----------



## brianf1971

Hornet - My Bitfenix Raider.

Hardware Specs
Case : Bitfenix Raider Black
PSU : Seasonic Platinum 860w
Mobo : ASROCK Z77 OC Formula
CPU : Intel 3770K
Ram : 16GB Trident 2600mhz (2 x 8GB Dual channel)
GPU : 2 x AMD HD7970.
SSD : 2 x OCZ Vertex 4 128gb
HD : 2GB WD Green
Blu-Ray : Sony Slimline cobo

Cooling
Front Rad : Aphacool Nexxxos UT60 360 Radiator
Top Rad : XSPC EX 360 Crossflow Radiator
Fans : 7 x AKASA Viper
CPU Block : XSPC Raystorm
GPU blocks : 2 x Heatkiller GPU-X3 79X0 with backplates
Res : Bitspower Z-Multi 150
Pump : D5 Vario
Pump top : Koolance COV-RP450
Fittings : Bitspower angle fittings and Monsoon Free Center Compression
Tube : Duralene 3/8 ID 5/8 OD Clear
Ram Block : MIPS
Coolant : Mayhems Pastel Sunet Yellow

Custom Mods
Optical Drive bay removal
Top Rad Mount
Custom cable routing holes Top and Front
3.5 Drive bay modded down to 3 bays and insert from right(under PSU cover plate)
PSU Cover Plate
Optical bay cover plate
Custom Yellow paint on Soft touch surfaces
SSD Mounts on PSU cover plate.
Blu-Ray mount
Raystorm Block covered in Carbon fiber Vinyl
Mod to remove PSU from the back.

Lighting
loop : XSPC & EK Yellow 3mm & 5mm for CPU and Res
Case : Remote RGB Led


----------



## LayerCakes

I Love the Akasa Vipers..


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Super Awesome Modded Rig!


Thank you!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wish shipping was cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Seems odd shipping is higher to Spain then when i shipped to Italy. Hmmmm.....I'll do a bit of research on some other shipping options.


Let me know if you find something more economical.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> I'll send you 10 meters of Durelene if you'l ship my ColdZero order to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That radiator is a Swiftech MCR220


I want the tubing first.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still rocking unblemished copper....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LOL, like a boss.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> crud, i do apologize. i have seen the spoiler tags in effect before yet i dont know how to use them... ill look it up. thx


As a big fan of Ergo Proxy I'll help ya with that... it's the black 'cartoon speech bubble' in the tool bar - just to the right of the alignment button.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> I know, why I said to get the Primochill Pro LRT. It will be white soon enough










Nice.

@BNeg... hilarious and on point as always.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brianf1971*
> 
> Hornet - My Bitfenix Raider.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware Specs
> Case : Bitfenix Raider Black
> PSU : Seasonic Platinum 860w
> Mobo : ASROCK Z77 OC Formula
> CPU : Intel 3770K
> Ram : 16GB Trident 2600mhz (2 x 8GB Dual channel)
> GPU : 2 x AMD HD7970.
> SSD : 2 x OCZ Vertex 4 128gb
> HD : 2GB WD Green
> Blu-Ray : Sony Slimline cobo
> Cooling
> Front Rad : Aphacool Nexxxos UT60 360 Radiator
> Top Rad : XSPC EX 360 Crossflow Radiator
> Fans : 7 x AKASA Viper
> CPU Block : XSPC Raystorm
> GPU blocks : 2 x Heatkiller GPU-X3 79X0 with backplates
> Res : Bitspower Z-Multi 150
> Pump : D5 Vario
> Pump top : Koolance COV-RP450
> Fittings : Bitspower angle fittings and Monsoon Free Center Compression
> Tube : Duralene 3/8 ID 5/8 OD Clear
> Ram Block : MIPS
> Coolant : Mayhems Pastel Sunet Yellow
> Custom Mods
> Optical Drive bay removal
> Top Rad Mount
> Custom cable routing holes Top and Front
> 3.5 Drive bay modded down to 3 bays and insert from right(under PSU cover plate)
> PSU Cover Plate
> Optical bay cover plate
> Custom Yellow paint on Soft touch surfaces
> SSD Mounts on PSU cover plate.
> Blu-Ray mount
> Raystorm Block covered in Carbon fiber Vinyl
> Mod to remove PSU from the back.
> Lighting
> loop : XSPC & EK Yellow 3mm & 5mm for CPU and Res
> Case : Remote RGB Led


VERY NICELY DONE!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brianf1971*
> 
> Hornet - My Bitfenix Raider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build.







It reminds me of someone else around here. Hahahaha. I like your mobo I was going to go with that one.


----------



## FunBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Very nice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It reminds me of someone else around here. Hahahaha. I like your mobo I was going to go with that one.


Love it , Color scheme is amazing


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brianf1971*
> 
> Hornet - My Bitfenix Raider.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Hardware specs
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware Specs
> Case : Bitfenix Raider Black
> PSU : Seasonic Platinum 860w
> Mobo : ASROCK Z77 OC Formula
> CPU : Intel 3770K
> Ram : 16GB Trident 2600mhz (2 x 8GB Dual channel)
> GPU : 2 x AMD HD7970.
> SSD : 2 x OCZ Vertex 4 128gb
> HD : 2GB WD Green
> Blu-Ray : Sony Slimline cobo
> Cooling
> Front Rad : Aphacool Nexxxos UT60 360 Radiator
> Top Rad : XSPC EX 360 Crossflow Radiator
> Fans : 7 x AKASA Viper
> CPU Block : XSPC Raystorm
> GPU blocks : 2 x Heatkiller GPU-X3 79X0 with backplates
> Res : Bitspower Z-Multi 150
> Pump : D5 Vario
> Pump top : Koolance COV-RP450
> Fittings : Bitspower angle fittings and Monsoon Free Center Compression
> Tube : Duralene 3/8 ID 5/8 OD Clear
> Ram Block : MIPS
> Coolant : Mayhems Pastel Sunet Yellow
> Custom Mods
> Optical Drive bay removal
> Top Rad Mount
> Custom cable routing holes Top and Front
> 3.5 Drive bay modded down to 3 bays and insert from right(under PSU cover plate)
> PSU Cover Plate
> Optical bay cover plate
> Custom Yellow paint on Soft touch surfaces
> SSD Mounts on PSU cover plate.
> Blu-Ray mount
> Raystorm Block covered in Carbon fiber Vinyl
> Mod to remove PSU from the back.
> Lighting
> loop : XSPC & EK Yellow 3mm & 5mm for CPU and Res
> Case : Remote RGB Led
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics


I really like that color scheme and tube routing. I like what you did to get the tube from the pump to GPU straight. Very nice build


----------



## Canis-X

Replaced the straight-out fittings that went from my CPU WB to the VRM WB / VRM WB to the SB WB to clean it up a bit.

Old:



New:


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brianf1971*
> 
> Hornet - My Bitfenix Raider.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware Specs
> Case : Bitfenix Raider Black
> PSU : Seasonic Platinum 860w
> Mobo : ASROCK Z77 OC Formula
> CPU : Intel 3770K
> Ram : 16GB Trident 2600mhz (2 x 8GB Dual channel)
> GPU : 2 x AMD HD7970.
> SSD : 2 x OCZ Vertex 4 128gb
> HD : 2GB WD Green
> Blu-Ray : Sony Slimline cobo
> Cooling
> Front Rad : Aphacool Nexxxos UT60 360 Radiator
> Top Rad : XSPC EX 360 Crossflow Radiator
> Fans : 7 x AKASA Viper
> CPU Block : XSPC Raystorm
> GPU blocks : 2 x Heatkiller GPU-X3 79X0 with backplates
> Res : Bitspower Z-Multi 150
> Pump : D5 Vario
> Pump top : Koolance COV-RP450
> Fittings : Bitspower angle fittings and Monsoon Free Center Compression
> Tube : Duralene 3/8 ID 5/8 OD Clear
> Ram Block : MIPS
> Coolant : Mayhems Pastel Sunet Yellow
> Custom Mods
> Optical Drive bay removal
> Top Rad Mount
> Custom cable routing holes Top and Front
> 3.5 Drive bay modded down to 3 bays and insert from right(under PSU cover plate)
> PSU Cover Plate
> Optical bay cover plate
> Custom Yellow paint on Soft touch surfaces
> SSD Mounts on PSU cover plate.
> Blu-Ray mount
> Raystorm Block covered in Carbon fiber Vinyl
> Mod to remove PSU from the back.
> Lighting
> loop : XSPC & EK Yellow 3mm & 5mm for CPU and Res
> Case : Remote RGB Led


Sweet rig, the tubing is well organised. Any led lit shots?


----------



## brianf1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Sweet rig, the tubing is well organised. Any led lit shots?


Not as yet, not happy with the color, all the ones I get are amber rather then yellow, am looking at coloring white ones instead.

Thanks all for the comments, really appreciate the support, this system has evolved over the last 6 months along with my love of Modding and Watercooling, this is my first real Mod (fans don't count IMOP) and my first Water Cooled rig, it went through through several colors, blue then green until I saw the OC Formula, thought the color suited the case and was more original, have noticed with MSI also using these colors it's becoming very popular.

As I am an Aussie this is not my home site but it's by far becoming the most supportive, I have a couple of other builds (Matx Prodigy & 90 degree Shinobi XL) in the works and was thinking of moving them to this site.

Brian


----------



## Triniboi82

^^ Ok cool bro, you could look at the led strips on ebay as well, those should have the shade of yellow you're after.

Can anyone explain what might be causing this foamy residue accumalating on the right side of my bay res?

I'm using distilled w/ killcoil & swiftech's hydrx. Maybe too much Hydrx was added?? I used a lil more than half bottle


----------



## airs

She's up and running!

The only issue I ran into was the GPU on the 690 that is closer to the outputs was hitting 85C during load, while the GPU towards the PCI-E connectors was only going to about 34C. Drained the loop and reapplied TIM to the GPUs which brought temps down to about 44C and 34C. Still puzzled, I did some googling and found some posts saying that the screws Koolance supplies with the waterblock allow you to apply a lot more mounting force. I swapped out the stock screws for these and voila - temps equalized! With the fans on only the two lower radiators active, neither GPU went above ~33C after a couple hours of Far Cry 3. Koolance might want to consider changing the instructions that come with the block to recommend using the supplied screws rather than stock ones.

Looks pretty empty in there, doesn't it? I'm thinking about moving the reservoir closer to the MB.

Still need to sleeve the Seasonic...


----------



## spad007

Now that's A Case. *looks Great*..


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rud3Bwoy*
> 
> 
> _
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Video of rig for you guys
> 
> 250 gb ocz vertex being added tomorrow with my windows 7 x64 retail,waiting for my icy dock to come from newegg tomorrow =)_
> 
> 
> rudebwoy i love your rig, i watched tjharlow build it


The Great TJHarlow, watched him build it too!! Love it!!


----------



## PinzaC55

airs said
Quote:


> Looks pretty empty in there, doesn't it? I'm thinking about moving the reservoir closer to the MB.


I think you actually need another mobo in there


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Admiral Rads....better late than never.
Shame the performance isnt there...looks nice tho.


----------



## wermad

^^^They do look nice though.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Can someone tell me what the open port on the top of this Bitspower pump top res is for, input and fill port? If you look at the photo I noted the input and output on the "pump top mod" (the clear base you see in the photo) where the in and out ports are. These are specifically labeled as such for each one so you know what they are and how to use it. However, there is no label for the top of the res tube. From what I have seen in youtube videos, this appears to be a fill port only or a "input/return port". I just want to make sure I am using this correct. You would fill it from the top open port which would then drain from the in and out ports shown on the photo is my understanding.

NOTE: Photo shows connector on top pump port but I would remove this and put a "stop fitting" in this to use as a fill port with my in and out at the bottom, correct?

Thanks for any help.


----------



## joejoe69

It's mostly a fill port with that upgrade kit res. You need the standalone Multi-Z version, which has 3 ports and a slosh tube to prevent splash noises. That res will be hard to bleed, much like a t-line.


----------



## MetallicAcid

I would like to propose a challenge to everyone here in this lovely forum... I would like to see if anyone can come up with some ideas for setting up a drain port and for my upcoming water cooled upgrade in my Silverstone TJ08B-E.



I have this pump and AquaComputer top, and I have thought of running a tube from the "IN" on the bottom right that is currently covered. The tube will be short and rest behind the motherboard tray. Will this work?



If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I would like to propose a challenge to everyone here in this lovely forum... I would like to see if anyone can come up with some ideas for setting up a drain port and for my upcoming water cooled upgrade in my Silverstone TJ08B-E.
> 
> I have this pump and AquaComputer top, and I have thought of running a tube from the "IN" on the bottom right that is currently covered. The tube will be short and rest behind the motherboard tray. Will this work?
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know!


Just put a T fitting between your front radiator and pump. .


----------



## morencyam

I would put a T-block between the pump and front radiator with an extra length of tube with a stop plug on the end. It would be the lowest point and probably the easiest point to work it in

EDIT: looks like KaRLiToS beat me to it


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I would put a T-block between the pump and front radiator with an extra length of tube with a stop plug on the end. It would be the lowest point and probably the easiest point to work it in
> EDIT: looks like KaRLiToS beat me to it


----------



## RKTGX95

*The First Step*


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The First Step*


Meh too much carbon fiber. It's been over done now. And these don't look near as nice as the regular fittings do.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Meh too much carbon fiber. It's been over done now. And these don't look near as nice as the regular fittings do.


well i agree that they aren't the best, they might look good in a well planned loop where there are a few light carbon accents. (maybe its the CSQ effect but a bit different? maybe it would grow on us? )


----------



## MetallicAcid

Thanks guys, I didn't even think of it!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> well i agree that they aren't the best, they might look good in a well planned loop where there are a few light carbon accents. (maybe its the CSQ effect but a bit different? maybe it would grow on us? )


Possibly. I do agreed the CSQ is still an odd look and it has grown on me but these just kinda scream scream "cheap" Like Monsoon wants us to carbon fiber everything to the point of tackiness. You may be right they could look very good in a build that uses CF sparingly but until I see one of those I doubt I will like them. Maybe it's just that I'm not a big fan of carbon fiber for the most part.


----------



## Zamoldac

I'm up and running









*Settings:*
CPU: @3.85Ghz/ 1.39v (stock 2.7Ghz/ 1.3v)
GPU: @900/1800 /4000Mhz - 1.125v (stock 700/ 1400/ 3680Mhz 1.050)
RAM: @950Mhz 5-5-5-15 (stock 1066Mhz 5-5-5-18)

*Temps:*
Idle:
Ambient: 26C
Liquid: 28C
CPU: 25C!








GPU: 36-37C
_______________________
Load:
Ambient: 26C
Liquid: 36-38C
CPU: 35C Linx/ 32C regular apps
GPU: 57C max/ 52-55 regular gaming

Running 8x AC F12 fans at ~55% (pretty much dead silent!) /Push-Pull configuration on a 480mm MagiCool XTREME radiator.
*Unfortunately* the AntiCorro solution i'm using clouded the distilled water and this makes the tubing look old... but then again... the inside of the case is not visible heh.

Also i have to say that the standard AlphaCool NexXxos XP3 mouting screws fitted just perfectly on the motherboard's backplate (this was an issue with the HeatKiller 3.0 wb that i previously had which needed it's mounting plate's holes broaden in order to fit the same size screws as the MB cpu backplate)







I hope this setup will hold me until Steamroller will be released.


----------



## eskamobob1

i havent seen one used like that before







... very nice build, but the cable management could use a tidy up


----------



## Wizid

You peeps have inspired me to rebuild my system. Any ideas on a new case? I have been looking at this. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1440029&sku=Q131-4002
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated....


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Admiral Rads....better late than never.
> Shame the performance isnt there...looks nice tho.


their looks make up for the slack.


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> i havent seen one used like that before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... very nice build, but the cable management could use a tidy up


Thanks!

The PSU's cables are a pita to work with... stiff as hell, but yeah i'm considering spending some time on the HDD/MB cable area








to make it moar pretty.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> You peeps have inspired me to rebuild my system. Any ideas on a new case? I have been looking at this. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1440029&sku=Q131-4002
> Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated....


Well.......
To each their own, I suppose, but that case you linked.......


----------



## nleksan

I REALLY wish that Heatkiller (Watercool) would release a full-cover block for the Rampage IV Extreme...

I have been searching for a block, and the only one that I like at all really is the MIPS Ni/POM model, but it's almost impossible to get a hold of :/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I REALLY wish that Heatkiller (Watercool) would release a full-cover block for the Rampage IV Extreme...
> I have been searching for a block, and the only one that I like at all really is the MIPS Ni/POM model, but it's almost impossible to get a hold of :/


You contacted them?

They seldom release mb blocks. XSPC does make a block at a reasonable price.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> You peeps have inspired me to rebuild my system. Any ideas on a new case? I have been looking at this. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1440029&sku=Q131-4002
> Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated....


How much do you want to spend? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146096


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> How much do you want to spend? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146096


i would get murdered if i spent that much for a case


----------



## Crooksy

I'm starting to wonder whether I should just delay my WC until the 780 comes out as I would be spending near £100 for a 680 block and backplate.

Thoughts?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> 
> *The First Step*


Unless there's a lot of lighting inside the case, I wouldn't imagine the carbon fiber inserts would get noticed all that much. But I have to admit, I like them a little more now than I did the other day.

An alternative to these is if someone is bold enough to use steel braided hoses and the original Monsoon fittings. The holes on the compression fitting could be used as a window to show off the steel braid, which is somewhat similar to carbon fiber patterns anyway.


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> How much do you want to spend? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146096


I really like that case you posted. I may just buy it but wait just a bit to see if there are any more suggestions. Thank You very much.....


----------



## kyismaster

just changed the thermal pads on my gpu, temps are aaamazing.

on another note, gosh polished steel attracts fingerprints like no tomorrow.


----------



## wermad

^^^You still selling it?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^You still selling it?


yeah, i ordered new pads to replace the old missing pads, to confirm if temps would go down, which it did, so now im going to be including the new pads with it, so whoever gets the block now, is gonna have some pretty nice temps


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just changed the thermal pads on my gpu, temps are aaamazing.
> on another note, gosh polished steel attracts fingerprints like no tomorrow.


Gotta do like I do. See the food handling gloves? I wouldn't dare touch that with my greeeezy hands.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Gotta do like I do. See the food handling gloves? I wouldn't dare touch that with my greeeezy hands.


I repolish it everytime before i put it in the case







i use those eye glass cleaners, work like a charm


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> yeah, i ordered new pads to replace the old missing pads, to confirm if temps would go down, which it did, so now im going to be including the new pads with it, so whoever gets the block now, is gonna have some pretty nice temps


DD has you use tim on the vram (yuk!), though I had some spare 0.5mm pads I used instead. Then I saw my idle temps were a tad high. I did tighten up the screws and that did drop the temps 5-10c. I'm going to order some 0.3mm pad from ebay soon and redo the pads. I'm still not a fan of using tim, other then the gpu core, on the gpu blocks.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1207763/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1207764/
> just changed the thermal pads on my gpu, temps are aaamazing.
> on another note, gosh polished steel attracts fingerprints like no tomorrow.


I know what you mean....I always use surgical gloves...then I don't have to worry about cleaning them up.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just changed the thermal pads on my gpu, temps are aaamazing.
> on another note, gosh polished steel attracts fingerprints like no tomorrow.


what pads did you end up getting?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Gotta do like I do. See the food handling gloves? I wouldn't dare touch that with my greeeezy hands.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i'll be getting that card/block setup soon for my Nazara build








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> DD has you use tim on the vram (yuk!), though I had some spare 0.5mm pads I used instead. Then I saw my idle temps were a tad high. I did tighten up the screws and that did drop the temps 5-10c. I'm going to order some 0.3mm pad from ebay soon and redo the pads. I'm still not a fan of using tim, other then the gpu core, on the gpu blocks.


when i had my first 7970, i used pads. but after it was replaced, i ended up using TIM on everything except the VRMs. temps were down on the core but i cant tell on the memory chips - but i did get a better overclock. that could have been me just getting a better clocking board as well though.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brianf1971*
> 
> Hornet - My Bitfenix Raider.
> Hardware Specs
> Case : Bitfenix Raider Black
> PSU : Seasonic Platinum 860w
> Mobo : ASROCK Z77 OC Formula
> CPU : Intel 3770K
> Ram : 16GB Trident 2600mhz (2 x 8GB Dual channel)
> GPU : 2 x AMD HD7970.
> SSD : 2 x OCZ Vertex 4 128gb
> HD : 2GB WD Green
> Blu-Ray : Sony Slimline cobo
> Cooling
> Front Rad : Aphacool Nexxxos UT60 360 Radiator
> Top Rad : XSPC EX 360 Crossflow Radiator
> Fans : 7 x AKASA Viper
> CPU Block : XSPC Raystorm
> GPU blocks : 2 x Heatkiller GPU-X3 79X0 with backplates
> Res : Bitspower Z-Multi 150
> Pump : D5 Vario
> Pump top : Koolance COV-RP450
> Fittings : Bitspower angle fittings and Monsoon Free Center Compression
> Tube : Duralene 3/8 ID 5/8 OD Clear
> Ram Block : MIPS
> Coolant : Mayhems Pastel Sunet Yellow
> Custom Mods
> Optical Drive bay removal
> Top Rad Mount
> Custom cable routing holes Top and Front
> 3.5 Drive bay modded down to 3 bays and insert from right(under PSU cover plate)
> PSU Cover Plate
> Optical bay cover plate
> Custom Yellow paint on Soft touch surfaces
> SSD Mounts on PSU cover plate.
> Blu-Ray mount
> Raystorm Block covered in Carbon fiber Vinyl
> Mod to remove PSU from the back.
> Lighting
> loop : XSPC & EK Yellow 3mm & 5mm for CPU and Res
> Case : Remote RGB Led


Looks as sexy as it does on ocau


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> DD has you use tim on the vram (yuk!), though I had some spare 0.5mm pads I used instead. Then I saw my idle temps were a tad high. I did tighten up the screws and that did drop the temps 5-10c. I'm going to order some 0.3mm pad from ebay soon and redo the pads. I'm still not a fan of using tim, other then the gpu core, on the gpu blocks.


o___O

I never said I used TIM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> what pads did you end up getting?
> [/spoiler]
> i'll be getting that card/block setup soon for my Nazara build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when i had my first 7970, i used pads. but after it was replaced, i ended up using TIM on everything except the VRMs. temps were down on the core but i cant tell on the memory chips - but i did get a better overclock. that could have been me just getting a better clocking board as well though.


I dunno, Performance PCs gave it to me, though I assume by the looks, its an EK set.


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> How much do you want to spend? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146096


Also if I get that case where is the best place to mount the pump?


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> Also if I get that case where is the best place to mount the pump?


NZXT Switch is great for water cooling as well:
http://www.outletpc.com/jl6985-ca-sw810-b1-nzxt-switch-810-computer-case.html

However if you really like the Phantom 820 - then FRYs is cheaper than Newegg:
http://www.frys.com/product/7370654?source=googleps&gclid=CPbo5fuxy7QCFcKPPAodiXwAng


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> It's mostly a fill port with that upgrade kit res. You need the standalone Multi-Z version, which has 3 ports and a slosh tube to prevent splash noises. That res will be hard to bleed, much like a t-line.


Actually, I was told the "Z" version is not needed because I am using a Bitspower "Pump Top Mod" shown in my photo. The air reduction I believe is covered too with a small insert that goes in the bottom of the Pump Top Mod which screws on to the pump. It shouldn't be hard to bleed since it's at the bottom of the res and will have a T adapter and in-line shutoff valve.

UPDATE: I answered more of my question here and wanted to post for those reading this. The answer is I am correct in the "Multi-Z" 150 res is NOT needed due to the fact I already have in place the "Pump Top Mod". If I was not using the additional Pump Top Mod, then this Z version would be needed. But if you look at the picture of it, I believe it will only be good for a horizontal mount since the 3 ports are on the bottom of the res tube. That fill port/input port I had a question on is at the top on the Z version as well. Therefore, using the "Pump Top Mod" like I am give you those 3 ports, but at the base in a vertical mount so you have the ports mounted on the side.

See this link for more, it shows and states this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_657&products_id=35198


----------



## Johnny Utah

I think I'll be using my tax return on a little something from case-labs. Adding the second overclocked 7970 seems to be overwhelming my loop. I've seen 18C deltas when playing FC3! Before I was right around 10-12C at the most. Go big or go home time!

Tentative upgrade list:
Case Labs M8
3x EX360 rads in addition to the one I own
9x Swiftech Helix fans
MCP35X + dual pump top (I already own one 35X)
CSQ EK 7970 block (I own one and the previous gen 7970 EK block. Hastily rigged together to run in parallel, so I'd like to clean that up)
EK GPU bridge

I think my Scythe fan controller can handle 12 Helix fans. They're rated at 0.25A and the fan controller is rated at 1A per ch x 6 ch. Two fans per channel should be fine.

My rig actually isn't too bad all things considered especially for a mid-tower. I could always squeeze in an extra slim 240 rad or a fat 120 I think, but I consider those solutions band-aids. I'll want plenty of extra head room for a third 7970 in case I need a little extra horsepower before the 20nm GPUs show up.


----------



## iShox

Here's mine.

Corsair 600t.
3570k @ 4.4
6990 @ 990/1300
1866mhz Corsair Dominator Platinum
UD3H Gigabyte mobo
60gb Intel 330
500gb Storage HDD
64mm XTX 240mm Rad
Black Ice GTX 240mm
1000w CM Silent Pro PSU
Fans are a mix of EK and Corsair
Pump/Res XSPC 750 Combo
Akasa fan controller 6 channel

http://imgur.com/8szZ6,W20ph,XMKU6
http://imgur.com/8szZ6,W20ph,XMKU6#1
http://imgur.com/8szZ6,W20ph,XMKU6#2


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The First Step*


This will be on Ram next.... SMH


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I dunno, Performance PCs gave it to me, though I assume by the looks, its an EK set.


so what are the temps with the new pads? (so i'd know if to order the Alphacool block or consider a different one. maybe Koolance? )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Possibly. I do agreed the CSQ is still an odd look and it has grown on me but these just kinda scream scream "cheap" Like Monsoon wants us to carbon fiber everything to the point of tackiness. You may be right they could look very good in a build that uses CF sparingly but until I see one of those I doubt I will like them. Maybe it's just that I'm not a big fan of carbon fiber for the most part.


i feel it might be almost exactly like the CSQ introduction. first many didn't like it until they saw it well implemented and then it grew on many people (though there are still some who don't like it, which is understandable) so we need PPCS to make a kick ass (its okay if i mean a donkey







) carbon fiber inspired mod and loop and i have a slight intuition of a sort it could be the Phantom 820 to host that. (since it has the lighting)


----------



## driftingforlife

I have hated CSQ since i first seen it, now I have a 7970 Lightning block in my hand and ooooooooooo my it is nice.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I have hated CSQ since i first seen it, now I have a 7970 Lightning block in my hand and ooooooooooo my it is nice.


Haha I was exactly the same when I got my 680 Lightning block.


----------



## Jonik




----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I have hated CSQ since i first seen it, now I have a 7970 Lightning block in my hand and ooooooooooo my it is nice.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Haha I was exactly the same when I got my 680 Lightning block.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


would any of you say that t he CSQ gpu blocks can be in a loop on their own or they require at least one more CSQ thing in it to make it look good?

also, considering the plexi version with red mayhems dye. should look great







(and not sure if to go on copper or nickel)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonik*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


its like Corsair have specially made the platinum RAM just to fit your color scheme







(and that lightning daughter board







)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> would any of you say that t he CSQ gpu blocks can be in a loop on their own or they require at least one more CSQ thing in it to make it look good?
> also, considering the plexi version with red mayhems dye. should look great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and not sure if to go on copper or nickel)


When I had my loop together, the GPU block was the only CSQ designed block in there.....the CPU block was an older gen EK plexi. I thought it looked good just like that. I would go the plexi nickel version if I were you. The Lightning block is non reference so they only had that one version, otherwise I would have gotten plexi as well.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> so what are the temps with the new pads? (so i'd know if to order the Alphacool block or consider a different one. maybe Koolance? )
> i feel it might be almost exactly like the CSQ introduction. first many didn't like it until they saw it well implemented and then it grew on many people (though there are still some who don't like it, which is understandable) so we need PPCS to make a kick ass (its okay if i mean a donkey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) carbon fiber inspired mod and loop and i have a slight intuition of a sort it could be the Phantom 820 to host that. (since it has the lighting)


VRMS are ~ 51c and bellow on 100% load

gpu core I've never seen a temp above 45c


----------



## Jonik

MSI HD 7970 Lightning water block -installation process and my system


----------



## Jonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> its like Corsair have specially made the platinum RAM just to fit your color scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and that lightning daughter board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


No, this is a coincidence, but the view is great ) 4x4Gb 2666Mhz 10-12-12 31 1.65V


----------



## eskamobob1

i was going to get lightnings... i just wish they made copper blocks for them (i dont use any nickle blocks at all if i can help it)


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> When I had my loop together, the GPU block was the only CSQ designed block in there.....the CPU block was an older gen EK plexi. I thought it looked good just like that. I would go the plexi nickel version if I were you. The Lightning block is non reference so they only had that one version, otherwise I would have gotten plexi as well.


well, that gives me more hope. now the fear of ruining my loop by adding a (single) CSQ is gone (yet not completely)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> VRMS are ~ 51c and bellow on 100% load
> gpu core I've never seen a temp above 45c


DAMMIT, now this makes my choice even harder







(especially when i have no idea what to choose in the future. either a ref 7950 as a second or search for a 7950 with a 7970 pcb since my card isn't being sold anymore or just go on a 7970 and have the unconventional CF setup. not to mention to choice of fitting full cover blocks)
btw, AFAIK that block should fit ref 7950 too right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonik*
> 
> MSI HD 7970 Lightning water block -installation process and my system
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Marvelous









btw, just realized that the CSQ blcoks remind me This:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





not that it is a bad thing










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonik*
> 
> No, this is a coincidence, but the view is great ) 4x4Gb 2666Mhz 10-12-12 31 1.65V


call it coincidence but Corsair just thought:"Hey these water loops look great, lets make our RAM to fit that" (possibly never happened







)

additionally, have been reconsidering my future color scheme. if i were to use mainly black and a few slight accents of red, which third color seems the best fit to make it a great tri color scheme?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> well, that gives me more hope. now the fear of ruining my loop by adding a (single) CSQ is gone (yet not completely)
> DAMMIT, now this makes my choice even harder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (especially when i have no idea what to choose in the future. either a ref 7950 as a second or search for a 7950 with a 7970 pcb since my card isn't being sold anymore or just go on a 7970 and have the unconventional CF setup. not to mention to choice of fitting full cover blocks)
> btw, AFAIK that block should fit ref 7950 too right?
> Marvelous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, just realized that the CSQ blcoks remind me This:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not that it is a bad thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> call it coincidence but Corsair just thought:"Hey these water loops look great, lets make our RAM to fit that" (possibly never happened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> additionally, have been reconsidering my future color scheme. if i were to use mainly black and a few slight accents of red, which third color seems the best fit to make it a great tri color scheme?


im selling my 7950 for 235 if you want lawl.

it has 7970 reference design.

depends on the reference 7950 design


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> im selling my 7950 for 235 if you want lawl.
> it has 7970 reference design.


Damn I would instantly take that 7950 if my case wasn't too small.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Damn I would instantly take that 7950 if my case wasn't too small.


yeah its about a 10.5inch card


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> im selling my 7950 for 235 if you want lawl.
> it has 7970 reference design.
> depends on the reference 7950 design


its the Sapphire 950Mhz one? and i must say that its very (VERY) tempting for me. especially when considering the prices in Israel.
let me give you an example, for that price you could buy here a GTX 650 Ti. Heck its even half the price of a 7950 here. (gotta love customs and overpricing







)
for a more extreme example, my rig cost overall could have fit in there a good full blown WC setup for the CPU in normal prices.

though if i'd buy the card it might delay (even more







) my loop so i'm still not sure, but i can assure myself that when the 89xx cards would come out here that price would still be cheaper.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> its the Sapphire 950Mhz one? and i must say that its very (VERY) tempting for me. especially when considering the prices in Israel.
> let me give you an example, for that price you could buy here a GTX 650 Ti. Heck its even half the price of a 7950 here. (gotta love customs and overpricing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> for a more extreme example, my rig cost overall could have fit in there a good full blown WC setup for the CPU in normal prices.
> though if i'd buy the card it might delay (even more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) my loop so i'm still not sure, but i can assure myself that when the 89xx cards would come out here that price would still be cheaper.












7950 = $470?

-faints-


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7950 = $470?
> -faints-


well most start at that and only go higher, the cheapest around at retail (sapphire ref 7950) is around 435$. (also, note that some of the high price is due to the USD to NIS ratio decrease. i.e. the NIS price in here divided by the stated ratio gives a higher price than around 3 months ago. moved from ~4 to lower than 3.8 which is good for me if i buy something from PPCS or you







)

if you want to half a bit more of a laugh (or a heart attack) go *here* and look at some of the prices and divide them by 3.75 . (it scares us all)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well...Bitfenix have sent me a white Survivor to mod and Aquatuning are providing the loop,CPU and GPU full cover with backplate plus the rad,Alphacool UT 240.
MOAR DREMEL!!!

I think painted copper tube this time.

Using my favorite car of all time as the theme!



The mighty RS 200!!

I am really looking forward to doing this one.


----------



## PinzaC55

Hardware Labs Black Ice GT Stealth Lite 360mm radiator plus 1 x Phobya Nano 2g fan.


----------



## kcuestag

Just finished the leak testing after installing the Masterkleer PVC clear tubing (with some Mayhems Red Dye, waiting on Deep Red to arrive sometime next week to make it even darker red) and a 120mm rad:



I know taking pictures at night sucks, I'll do a proper picture in the morning.


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Can anyone explain what might be causing this foamy residue accumalating on the right side of my bay res?
> I'm using distilled w/ killcoil & swiftech's hydrx. Maybe too much Hydrx was added?? I used a lil more than half bottle


bump


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Just finished the leak testing after installing the Masterkleer PVC clear tubing (with some Mayhems Red Dye, waiting on Deep Red to arrive sometime next week to make it even darker red) and a 120mm rad:
> 
> I know taking pictures at night sucks, I'll do a proper picture in the morning.


Yep MOAR red


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> bump


maybe you got a vortex going on.

white waters


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> maybe you got a vortex going on.
> white waters


Double post


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> maybe you got a vortex going on.
> white waters


Thanks, any fixes or I have to live with?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Thanks, any fixes or I have to live with?


probably have a fix , but I forgot.


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Just finished the leak testing after installing the Masterkleer PVC clear tubing (with some Mayhems Red Dye, waiting on Deep Red to arrive sometime next week to make it even darker red) and a 120mm rad:
> 
> 
> 
> I know taking pictures at night sucks, I'll do a proper picture in the morning.


What? No, no complaining, that looks incredible and it's a shame you can't get that kind of lighting from the inside.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> maybe you got a vortex going on.
> white waters
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, any fixes or I have to live with?
Click to expand...

Fill the res completely covering the return feed.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyadCK*
> 
> What? No, no complaining, that looks incredible and it's a shame you can't get that kind of lighting from the inside.


[insert] complaining.....that looks freaking incredible.....crying shame on the whole lighting bit.....[/insert] LOL


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> I think I'll be using my tax return on a little something from case-labs. Adding the second overclocked 7970 seems to be overwhelming my loop. I've seen 18C deltas when playing FC3! Before I was right around 10-12C at the most. Go big or go home time!
> Tentative upgrade list:
> Case Labs M8
> 3x EX360 rads in addition to the one I own
> 9x Swiftech Helix fans
> MCP35X + dual pump top (I already own one 35X)
> CSQ EK 7970 block (I own one and the previous gen 7970 EK block. Hastily rigged together to run in parallel, so I'd like to clean that up)
> EK GPU bridge
> I think my Scythe fan controller can handle 12 Helix fans. They're rated at 0.25A and the fan controller is rated at 1A per ch x 6 ch. Two fans per channel should be fine.
> My rig actually isn't too bad all things considered especially for a mid-tower. I could always squeeze in an extra slim 240 rad or a fat 120 I think, but I consider those solutions band-aids. I'll want plenty of extra head room for a third 7970 in case I need a little extra horsepower before the 20nm GPUs show up.


My ambient is about 25c and last night my 680's were getting up to about 47c while playing far cry 3. I think something is wrong because I just added a Monsta 480 rad and I already had a rx360. So that's 7x120 worth of rad. I have a mobo block, cpu block and 2 gpu blocks. I feel like my temperatures should be much lower. It's almost like they stayed the same after adding the 480rad. Plus they idle at about 30c.

I ran out of EK clear coolant and topped up my loop with a little plain distilled. Could mixing the 2 cause a problem.


----------



## LiquidHaus

If any of you guys like itx builds, check out my "Nazara" build log. Gotta nice update there - with a 3770k getting picked up later today


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> If any of you guys like itx builds, check out my "Nazara" build log. Gotta nice update there - with a 3770k getting picked up later today


hows that pump?

i was planning to get one


----------



## animal0307

More hardware death in the pursuit of water cooling.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Not what you thought. Mills are nasty things. Terrible set up and trying to take too much at once. Killed my back plate trying to make it work with my XSPC Razor 5870 block.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm starting to wonder whether I should just delay my WC until the 780 comes out as I would be spending near £100 for a 680 block and backplate.
> Thoughts?


just get a gtx 690 and call it a day..








i went through the same thing last year with the 580 vs. 680 release..
in the end i caved and got a EVGA 580 hydro copper 2 3Gb
and haven't regredited since..my mobo was able to handle pcie 3.0
but my cpu was only the 2700k. need the new ivy bridge to
take full potential of pcie 3.0 and Kepler.
i knew i was going to build another rig neways which is where i'm at today
and i only have 3 things left to buy...coolant and graphics card + Block
and i'm oh so wanting to just go out and get a 690..then later when Maxwell is release
i have an excuse to build another comp lol..


----------



## Alvarez

Hello everyone, got a quick question about rads and liquids;

I ordered 2 bottle of Aquatuning AT-Protect-Clear 1000ml so 2000ml in total. Will this be enough for 240mm rad (60mm thick) 1 slot driverbay reservoir and about 1m long loop ? G 1/4 threads (8-11mm)

Or should i order 1 bottle more ?

Second built BTW, first one have been destroyed lol


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> More hardware death in the pursuit of water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Not what you thought. Mills are nasty things. Terrible set up and trying to take too much at once. Killed my back plate trying to make it work with my XSPC Razor 5870 block.


dwood can fix you up a new one


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> My ambient is about 25c and last night my 680's were getting up to about 47c while playing far cry 3. I think something is wrong because I just added a Monsta 480 rad and I already had a rx360. So that's 7x120 worth of rad. I have a mobo block, cpu block and 2 gpu blocks. I feel like my temperatures should be much lower. It's almost like they stayed the same after adding the 480rad. Plus they idle at about 30c.
> I ran out of EK clear coolant and topped up my loop with a little plain distilled. Could mixing the 2 cause a problem.


Those temps don't seem too bad compared to my setup after adding a 2nd GPU. Granted the 680 should run much cooler than the 7970. Still I think it's to be expected that adding more radiator gradually produces diminished returns. It's odd that you aren't seeing at least a measurable difference. I'd expect you'd see a difference in water temps at least.

Just to clarify when I mentioned deltas earlier I was referring to ambient-water not ambient-hardware.

Temps with single 7970
air-water delta ~10C
GPU load ~ 45C
CPU load ~55-57C

Temps with dual 7970
air-water delta ~18C
GPU load ~ 55C
CPU load ~ 65C

Adding a 480 would seem worth it to me if you look at it from the perspective of cancelling out adding a second card. What's even worse about my temp numbers is I've been playing around with this set-up while my ambient is in the 20-22C range thanks to some recenter cold spells.


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> Hello everyone, got a quick question about rads and liquids;
> I ordered 2 bottle of Aquatuning AT-Protect-Clear 1000ml so 2000ml in total. Will this be enough for 240mm rad (60mm thick) 1 slot driverbay reservoir and about 1m long loop ? G 1/4 threads (8-11mm)
> Or should i order 1 bottle more ?
> Second built BTW, first one have been destroyed lol


More than enough for that setup. I like to keep a second bottle of fluid around just in case though.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> Those temps don't seem too bad compared to my setup after adding a 2nd GPU. Granted the 680 should run much cooler than the 7970. Still I think it's to be expected that adding more radiator gradually produces diminished returns. It's odd that you aren't seeing at least a measurable difference. I'd expect you'd see a difference in water temps at least.
> Just to clarify when I mentioned deltas earlier I was referring to ambient-water not ambient-hardware.
> Temps with single 7970
> air-water delta ~10C
> GPU load ~ 45C
> CPU load ~55-57C
> Temps with dual 7970
> air-water delta ~18C
> GPU load ~ 55C
> CPU load ~ 65C
> Adding a 480 would seem worth it to me if you look at it from the perspective of cancelling out adding a second card. What's even worse about my temp numbers is I've been playing around with this set-up while my ambient is in the 20-22C range thanks to some recenter cold spells.


Ya I'm really confused, I was running my 3930k and 2 680's with just the rx360 rad using plain distilled. Now I added a mobo block and the 80mm 480 rad and the temps seem the same. I'm wondering if the EK coolant runs much hotter than plain distilled.

I got worried because my blocks are nickel plated so I figured the safest thing would be to use the EK coolant.

It sucks using coolant at 20 dollars a bottle.

Could the mobo block add a lot of heat. I also run my fans really low but even when I put them up all the way the temps only go down a few degrees, almost no difference.

I added a second 35x pump with the dual pump top.

I wonder if I have too much flow.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Ya I'm really confused, I was running my 3930k and 2 680's with just the rx360 rad using plain distilled. Now I added a mobo block and the 80mm 480 rad and the temps seem the same. I'm wondering if the EK coolant runs much hotter than plain distilled.
> I got worried because my blocks are nickel plated so I figured the safest thing would be to use the EK coolant.
> It sucks using coolant at 20 dollars a bottle.
> Could the mobo block add a lot of heat. I also run my fans really low but even when I put them up all the way the temps only go down a few degrees, almost no difference.
> I added a second 35x pump with the dual pump top.
> I wonder if I have too much flow.


and thats why I use pure water







jeez i'd be so broke at 20 dollars a bottle,


----------



## strong island 1

Also one other question. I have the rx360 rad in the flex bays of my STH10, but I mounted it so the ports are on the bottom, would the water have trouble getting up into the rad that way. Should I flip it so the ports are at the top so the water would have to travel down, I feel like the water just runs out of there with the ports at the bottom. I don't know just trying to figure it out. i forgot to order a 360 rad mount for the flex bays but I ordered a single fan mount and I was able to mount the rad in the flex bays just using the one fan mount until I can order a 360 mount.

Either way my rig is really quiet now and I used to get to about 75c while playing far cry 3 with air cooling so I guess 45c is a huge difference.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> and thats why I use pure water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jeez i'd be so broke at 20 dollars a bottle,


I know I really loved plain distilled but I read that report EK did on the nickel plating and who knows if they were lying but there coolant had the best results, seams very convenient.

EK was the only company who made blocks for my cards and they only made nickel versions. I have this csq design on all my blocks now. I just haven't posted pics because i started a build log but i have been so busy at work I haven't had time for it. I thought it would be wierd to post the pics here before my log.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I know I really loved plain distilled but I read that report EK did on the nickel plating and who knows if they were lying but there coolant had the best results, seams very convenient.
> EK was the only company who made blocks for my cards and they only made nickel versions. I have this csq design on all my blocks now. I just haven't posted pics because i started a build log but i have been so busy at work I haven't had time for it. I thought it would be wierd to post the pics here before my log.


nickle platting = chipping regardless of what liquid you use.








gotta either get solid nickle or copper.


----------



## strong island 1




----------



## strong island 1

ya if I wanted to watercool my cards I had no choice. The 4gb evga ftw cards are not refernce and only one block was made which was nickel plated. Everything else is the copper versions.


----------



## nleksan

NOTE: I am posting here AND in the "OFFICIAL SWITCH 810" Thread (MODS: If this is not okay, please delete one) in order to get an answer as fast as possible

Well, School and other duties has kept me incredibly busy for what feels like forever, but I have free time!








That means ROUTING TUBING and LEAK TESTING my rig









Unfortunately, that also means I could use a bit of help here.... But you guys are all AWESOME so I have no doubt I'll get the assistance I need!









*HERE'S MY RIG AS IT SITS:*








I have been struggling to figure out how best to run my tubing for a while; initially, I was going to have the pump under the EK res and connected together via Bitspower Male-Male Rotary Adapter, but I don't trust the res clamps (the EK ones are absolute junk, so I spent weeks/months finding acceptable ones, ending up with the same type used on Bitspower Multi-Z reservoirs).
I also acquired an XSPC Single-5.25 Bay Res, and I want to use both reservoirs as it will reduce the "white water" effect, make bleeding much easier, and provide more options for drain/fill ports.

So, I figured that I can have my pump tucked up and out of the way, in the 5.25 bay.

*HERE'S HOW THE PUMP IS SITUATED (using Bitspower 90deg Rotary Adapter + BP Male-Male Coupler/Adapter):*



My questions:

1) *Is this an acceptable way to have the pump mounted?* It will not be "permanent", as I will be getting an MCP35X2-Housing within the coming months in order to utilize both of the MCP35X pumps I have.
Also, the DVD-R/W will be removed after everything I need is loaded off the discs and onto the PC, after which I will put an 80x15mm fan in the bay below the pump to provide airflow across the bottom of the pump, cooling the PCB.

2) *What way should I route the tubing?*
I was thinking either:
A) Bay Res -> Pump -> CPU -> EX420 -> GPU -> UT60 240 -> EK Res -> Bay Res
~OR~
B) Bay Res -> Pump -> UT60 240 -> GPU -> EX420 -> CPU -> EK Res -> Bay Res
ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

3) *Where do I put my FILL PORT and DRAIN VALVE??*
I have quite a few fittings "left over", and the ones I have in regards to the above are a Bitspower triple-rotary "Y" fitting and a Bitspower Ball-Valve Open/Close "Stop" Fitting, and a number of others as seen in the picture below:

I was thinking, maybe have the drain come off the EK res, but what about the fill port?

Thank you SO MUCH for any and all help! I've been struggling with this for a while, and I figured I'd ask the experts!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I know I really loved plain distilled but I read that report EK did on the nickel plating and who knows if they were lying but there coolant had the best results, seams very convenient.
> EK was the only company who made blocks for my cards and they only made nickel versions. I have this csq design on all my blocks now. I just haven't posted pics because i started a build log but i have been so busy at work I haven't had time for it. I thought it would be wierd to post the pics here before my log.
> 
> 
> 
> nickle platting = chipping regardless of what liquid you use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gotta either get solid nickle or copper.
Click to expand...

Not true.
It was EKs substandard plating process that caused all the nickel issues,I have run a variety of blocks with all types of coolants,never had a problem with peeling nickel.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.
> It was EKs substandard plating process that caused all the nickel issues,I have run a variety of blocks with all types of coolants,never had a problem with peeling nickel.


no im saying that regardless of what liquid you use, you could have nickel chipping lol.

coolant won't help stop it.

not nickel platting in general.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> no im saying that regardless of what liquid you use, you could have nickel chipping lol.
> coolant won't help stop it.
> not nickel platting in general.


ya I get what you mean. I just had no choice so I figure I might as well go with the EK coolant.


----------



## strong island 1

I just realized I used the wrong inlet on my EK block. I guess I have to redo everything this weekend.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> ya I get what you mean. I just had no choice so I figure I might as well go with the EK coolant.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I just realized I used the wrong inlet on my EK block. I guess I have to redo everything this weekend.












the amount of times i drained my loop to change parts this week would make my wallet cry









im wondering if I should stick with mayhem UV clear blue and DI

or just use mayhems UV pastels.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the amount of times i drained my loop to change parts this week would make my wallet cry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im wondering if I should stick with mayhem UV clear blue and DI
> or just use mayhems UV pastels.


right after I filled my loop with 2 bottles of coolant I had to change the res i was using and basically lost $40. I had this tiny res on top of the 2 35x pumps and they were so powerful, they would suck the water out of the res so fast that the pumps would go dry for a second and suck in air, so I changed my res to a bigger one I had lying around. I just liked the idea of the small res because it attached to the top of the pumps but it was too tiny. I have to save up for a frozenq res.


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Ya I'm really confused, I was running my 3930k and 2 680's with just the rx360 rad using plain distilled. Now I added a mobo block and the 80mm 480 rad and the temps seem the same. I'm wondering if the EK coolant runs much hotter than plain distilled.
> I got worried because my blocks are nickel plated so I figured the safest thing would be to use the EK coolant.
> It sucks using coolant at 20 dollars a bottle.
> Could the mobo block add a lot of heat. I also run my fans really low but even when I put them up all the way the temps only go down a few degrees, almost no difference.
> I added a second 35x pump with the dual pump top.
> I wonder if I have too much flow.


Yeah coolant is pricey. I bought my PC Ice from Jab-tech for about $11 though and I've been pretty happy with it. I see discoloration on my old 7970 nickel block but no flaking. Been running it for about 9 months. I doubt EK coolant would be that bad as far as temps go. Motherboard blocks are supposedly quite restrictive, but if you have 2 pumps I don't think that's the problem. Trial and error is your best bet for finding the sweet spot regarding flow, fan speed, noise and temps.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> right after I filled my loop with 2 bottles of coolant I had to change the res i was using and basically lost $40. I had this tiny res on top of the 2 35x pumps and they were so powerful, they would suck the water out of the res so fast that the pumps would go dry for a second and suck in air, so I changed my res to a bigger one I had lying around. I just liked the idea of the small res because it attached to the top of the pumps but it was too tiny. I have to save up for a frozenq res.


i know LOL

that little thing does 1050 LPH each 35X


----------



## strong island 1

ya I'm having some problems with the tube routing. With the mobo block and vrm block there are so many ports so close together. The tubing was kinking in a couple spots and really hard to route.

I got everything up and running but i hate the way the tubing looks. I don't want to show pics until I fix it. i think it looks a little funny.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i know LOL
> that little thing does 1050 LPH each 35X


Ya it was crazy. I filled it to the top and I would start prime95 and it would completely empty before it filled up again. All I would see is a little water coming out of the return port and right back out again. It was a real pain. Thankfully I had a little bigger res from my cosmos 2.


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fill the res completely covering the return feed.


I'll try that, thank you


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Ya it was crazy. I filled it to the top and I would start prime95 and it would completely empty before it filled up again. All I would see is a little water coming out of the return port and right back out again. It was a real pain. Thankfully I had a little bigger res from my cosmos 2.


You fill your loop with your pc on!?

I just jump my psu and flip the switch on/off as the res is sucked dry. You're right about the size of that swiftech res. I like that it's small for my build, but it does make filling a pain.

Don't be shy about posting pictures of an "unclean" loop. Here's mine with cloudy tubing and all, lol.



edit: top 7970 has the CSQ block with only two downward-facing ports. Old 7970 block had up and down ports that are offset from the edge of the card. Getting that little bit of tubing in there was a pain, but I somehow MacGyvered it enough to work. Flow was still strong which I'm pleased about.


----------



## Johnny Utah

Oh and someone mentioned destroying a backplate earlier in the pursuit of water cooling...



How about drilling a hole in a P9X79 WS so I can try and fit a waterblock designed for a R5F? $300 mistake.

The motherboard still works. I just couldn't get it stable at my original overclock. Also whatever those little things are off-set to the right of the VRMs, that only got passive cooling from some enzotech heatsinks (they get hot too). Also the rear VRMs still got hot which just made the whole ordeal ultimately pointless. Every part of my being told me not to do it, but I just caught the modding/watercooling bug and it overcame my inhibitions.

I still have the motherboard and VRM waterblock if anyone is interested.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> You fill your loop with your pc on!?
> I just jump my psu and flip the switch on/off as the res is sucked dry. You're right about the size of that swiftech res. I like that it's small for my build, but it does make filling a pain.
> Don't be shy about posting pictures of an "unclean" loop. Here's mine with cloudy tubing and all, lol.
> edit: top 7970 has the CSQ block with only two downward-facing ports. Old 7970 block had up and down ports that are offset from the edge of the card. Getting that little bit of tubing in there was a pain, but I somehow MacGyvered it enough to work. Flow was still strong which I'm pleased about.


I do fill my loop with my pc on because all the cables on my ax1200 are the same color. I couldn't figure out how to jump it.

But I was saying that even after my loop was full the pumps were so strong they would suck all the water out of the res so fast that I guess it was sucking water faster then it was filling back up.

The pumps are pwm controlled so at idle the res was fine but as soon as I would use prime95 they would suck the water so fast that it was like I was filling my loop for the first time but it was already full.

I don't know if this makes sense but all I was trying to say is that res is really small and worthless for a big loop.


----------



## Johnny Utah

Seems odd. I'd guess you didn't have enough coolant in your loop or something. My water level doesn't change at all in my res.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> hows that pump?
> i was planning to get one


D5 Vario is pretty sweet. EK's take on the pump/res combo idea is the best imo, plus the csq design really isn't that bad. then again you can't see it in the case


----------



## Frezo

Can I join...Just finished it a few days ago ._.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frezo*
> 
> Can I join...Just finished it a few days ago ._.


No you can't join, get the hell out of here.

JK!


----------



## LayerCakes

How does one go about getting on the list? Is it even still updated?


----------



## teamrushpntball

It's updated, Bneg will get around to it in whenever they have time. Just make sure you have a picture of your rig in this thread somewhere.


----------



## LayerCakes

Ahh I do a few pages back so s'all good.


----------



## Frezo

>__< *cries*


----------



## trippinonprozac

Still working on my latest build but here are a few progress shots


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> Oh and someone mentioned destroying a backplate earlier in the pursuit of water cooling...
> *snip*
> How about drilling a hole in a P9X79 WS so I can try and fit a waterblock designed for a R5F? $300 mistake.


I don't want to sound like an a-hole, but that is just ******ed.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I don't want to sound like an a-hole, but that is just ******ed.


Well, pretty much.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.
> It was EKs substandard plating process that caused all the nickel issues,I have run a variety of blocks with all types of coolants,never had a problem with peeling nickel.


It seems the nickel issue is as the plasticizer issue - "hit and miss" - I say that because I have a set of HD 5870s in CF with EK Nickel/Acetyl FC blocks and the last time I disassembled them they looked great. I had a 3rd 5870 that was the Powercolor LCS version with the EK FC block standard issue from the manufacturer - it didn't have any issues either. I always wondered if it had something to do with the plexi versions - they seemed to be the ones that generally had problems. But who knows, there may have been acetyl/nickel blocks with problems too - I just didn't research it that in depth.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Still working on my latest build but here are a few progress shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! I like it!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Still working on my latest build but here are a few progress shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What are your temps now with your CPU and dual cards?


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I don't want to sound like an a-hole, but that is just ******ed.


Yep I'll be the first to admit that, but the motherboard is far from dead. I'm pretty sure if I re-install the stock heatsink it'll be ok.

The real issue was the threaded screws from the waterblock would strip off this EMI-insulating lacquer-type stuff I picked up at Fry's. Sometimes I couldn't turn the PC on because I was getting a short from the backplate touching my case. I was hoping that since there weren't any traces that I could see, it wouldn't hurt anything. I was right for the most part I think. The motherboard remained functional, but the lack of proper insulation I think is what really screwed it up. At least I hope that's what it is and not something more troubling like power/ground fluctuations in the copper layers.

I bought another open box WS because I didn't want to mess with it anymore. One of these days I'd like to try and pick up a 3820 on the cheap and try and get it stable at stock settings. That's the only way I'll be able to recoup any value from that motherboard.

First time water cooling, first time modding a case. I got waaaay to carried away.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> What are your temps now with your CPU and dual cards?


Haven't done much tooling around yet but after a 2 hour session of bf3 last night with the cards at 1200mhz and the cpu at 4.5ghz the highest temp on the cards was 42c.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> Seems odd. I'd guess you didn't have enough coolant in your loop or something. My water level doesn't change at all in my res.


my water level always changes. when my pc is idle the res is full and when it's under full load it moves down about an inch. It moves a lot more with the second pump. I guess since it's pwm the pump is always fluctuating.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> my water level always changes. when my pc is idle the res is full and when it's under full load it moves down about an inch. It moves a lot more with the second pump. I guess since it's pwn the pump is always fluctuating.


use your mobo settings to change the fanspeed to max and fill it up when its stuck at max, then seal it, and your rig won't flux ever again.










change the speed back to normal, and win win.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> use your mobo settings to change the fanspeed to max and fill it up when its stuck at max, then seal it, and your rig won't flux ever again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> change the speed back to normal, and win win.


Pretty much this, that and be damn careful filling with your pc running.


----------



## strong island 1

ya I didn't realize I could do that. I never fill it up all the way. I'm always afraid it will seep out the top but I guess not if I seal it.

I actually did have a pretty big leak. That small res has a really wierd way to screw it onto the pump. You need a really wide screwdiver, so wide it's ridiculous, so I tried using a wide piece of metal but I don't think it ever sealed and it leaked pretty bad. Luckily this case is huge and the components were pretty far away.

I was also removing my cpu block from my old case and I turned it to the side too much and water spilled in the mobo power connections, but luckily it wasn't running and nothing happened. It's scared the crap out of me though.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> ya I didn't realize I could do that. I never fill it up all the way. I'm always afraid it will seep out the top but I guess not if I seal it.
> I actually did have a pretty big leak. That small res has a really wierd way to screw it onto the pump. You need a really wide screwdiver, so wide it's ridiculous, so I tried using a wide piece of metal but I don't think it ever sealed and it leaked pretty bad. Luckily this case is huge and the components were pretty far away.
> I was also removing my cpu block from my old case and I turned it to the side too much and water spilled in the mobo power connections, but luckily it wasn't running and nothing happened. It's scared the crap out of me though.


I use a coin, you might want to try a quarter or something.

keep some paper towels near by lol, and cover every flat surface you can with paper towels.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> my water level always changes. when my pc is idle the res is full and when it's under full load it moves down about an inch. It moves a lot more with the second pump. I guess since it's pwm the pump is always fluctuating.


That sounds like you have a substantial air pocket trapped somewhere, likely in a rad.

With higher water pressure from faster speeds on the pump, it compresses considerably, increasing the overall loop volume, and the res level drops.

Slow the pump down, the pressure decreases, the air pocket expands back to normal, res level goes up.

Get the air out, and it'll stay pretty much at a constant level, varying only from tubing bulge if you have that much pump and thin tubing.

You may also see a tiny improvement in temps.

Darlene


----------



## kcuestag

Here's a shot with better lighting:



I love it, looks so much better than using that blue tubing I had before.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> Oh and someone mentioned destroying a backplate earlier in the pursuit of water cooling...
> -snip-
> How about drilling a hole in a P9X79 WS so I can try and fit a waterblock designed for a R5F? $300 mistake.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The motherboard still works. I just couldn't get it stable at my original overclock. Also whatever those little things are off-set to the right of the VRMs, that only got passive cooling from some enzotech heatsinks (they get hot too). Also the rear VRMs still got hot which just made the whole ordeal ultimately pointless. Every part of my being told me not to do it, but I just caught the modding/watercooling bug and it overcame my inhibitions.
> I still have the motherboard and VRM waterblock if anyone is interested.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Still working on my latest build but here are a few progress shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love this shot right here....great looking build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here's a shot with better lighting:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love it, looks so much better than using that blue tubing I had before.


The red looks good and fits well. Anyway to straighten out the res a little?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The red looks good and fits well. Anyway to straighten out the res a little?


Yes, I just tightened the zip tie a bit more and it's straight now.

I might drain the loop and remove the 120mm rad as it doesn't look like I need it, the 540mm rad is overkill already for my setup, plus the computer looks better without the extra rad (http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k491/kcuestag/DSC_0580.jpg).

What do you think?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yes, I just tightened the zip tie a bit more and it's straight now.
> I might drain the loop and remove the 120mm rad as it doesn't look like I need it, the 540mm rad is overkill already for my setup, plus the computer looks better without the extra rad (http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k491/kcuestag/DSC_0580.jpg).
> What do you think?


IMO, I think you should just leave it out, like you did with the last setup. That 540 is beast in there, and the 120 isn't doing much of anything to help temps.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> IMO, I think you should just leave it out, like you did with the last setup. That 540 is beast in there, and the 120 isn't doing much of anything to help temps.


Done!


----------



## nleksan

The only POSSIBLE improvements I can think of for your rig would be: Sleeve the fan wires (up top), sleeve the power cable (MB, far right), and cover-up the wires exiting the PSU. It's already one of the cleanest and most well-done loops here, might as well put on those little finishing touches







Sorry, it's my OCD, once I see the ugly PSU Rainbow, I can't unsee it


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that was fast. Awesome.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> The only POSSIBLE improvements I can think of for your rig would be: Sleeve the fan wires (up top), sleeve the power cable (MB, far right), and cover-up the wires exiting the PSU. It's already one of the cleanest and most well-done loops here, might as well put on those little finishing touches
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, it's my OCD, once I see the ugly PSU Rainbow, I can't unsee it


Agreed.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That sounds like you have a substantial air pocket trapped somewhere, likely in a rad.
> With higher water pressure from faster speeds on the pump, it compresses considerably, increasing the overall loop volume, and the res level drops.
> Slow the pump down, the pressure decreases, the air pocket expands back to normal, res level goes up.
> Get the air out, and it'll stay pretty much at a constant level, varying only from tubing bulge if you have that much pump and thin tubing.
> You may also see a tiny improvement in temps.
> Darlene


Thanks for the advice. Ya I have to turn my cpu fan down. I have it on turbo. i didn't even think about lowering it. With 2 - 35x pumps at the highest speed it's a lot of power.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That sounds like you have a substantial air pocket trapped somewhere, likely in a rad.
> With higher water pressure from faster speeds on the pump, it compresses considerably, increasing the overall loop volume, and the res level drops.
> Slow the pump down, the pressure decreases, the air pocket expands back to normal, res level goes up.
> Get the air out, and it'll stay pretty much at a constant level, varying only from tubing bulge if you have that much pump and thin tubing.
> You may also see a tiny improvement in temps.
> Darlene


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I use a coin, you might want to try a quarter or something.
> keep some paper towels near by lol, and cover every flat surface you can with paper towels.


Ya that res is just too much trouble. I hate that I bought it. At least I have a spare now though. I have 2 of everything now so I'm thinking maybe 2 separate loops would look really cool in my case, there is so much room.

I don't think I will ever buy any other case brand besides case labs from now on. They really are amazing.


----------



## CRosko42

How difficult is it to clean up a block after running a mayhems dye for a 3-6 months?

Just wondering as I am planning on swapping out my 680 for a 780 when they launch and I have only run straight distilled + killcoil in all of my loops.

Doing a re route of my tubing with a few new fittings and I might go with the dye look if its not too much trouble to clean up.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> How difficult is it to clean up a block after running a mayhems dye for a 3-6 months?
> Just wondering as I am planning on swapping out my 680 for a 780 when they launch and I have only run straight distilled + killcoil in all of my loops.
> Doing a re route of my tubing with a few new fittings and I might go with the dye look if its not too much trouble to clean up.


not hard, but you'd have to drain the loop before removing the block lol, then opening it up to get to the internals.


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> not hard, but you'd have to drain the loop before removing the block lol, then opening it up to get to the internals.


I know that









I meant more about removing any staining.

Thanks though.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> I know that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I meant more about removing any staining.
> Thanks though.


if you wanna remove staining, I heard ketchup/ lemon juice works lol


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> I know that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I meant more about removing any staining.
> Thanks though.


From what I've heard, there is very little staining with Mayhems. I mixed some orange dye with distilled water in a clear bottle that has been sitting on my desk for a few weeks and I've seen no separation, staining, or fading of color. I still have yet to add it to the loop though


----------



## kyismaster

thanks for the 100th


----------



## NewHighScore

haven't posted for a while since my build stagnated waiting on a few parts. A little refresher. Hopefully THE update will be coming soon.

Can you spot the few little changes that need to be made?


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> if you wanna remove staining, I heard ketchup/ lemon juice works lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> From what I've heard, there is very little staining with Mayhems. I mixed some orange dye with distilled water in a clear bottle that has been sitting on my desk for a few weeks and I've seen no separation, staining, or fading of color. I still have yet to add it to the loop though


Ok, thanks for the help/tips.


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> I know that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I meant more about removing any staining.
> Thanks though.


You could always pop over and ask any detailed questions on it in the Mayhems Users Club. A lot of folks there have had similar questions, and Mayhem himself answers a lot of questions for people.







But I second what Morencyam said, I don't think you get very much staining using Mayhems products from what I have heard and seen.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> How difficult is it to clean up a block after running a mayhems dye for a 3-6 months?
> Just wondering as I am planning on swapping out my 680 for a 780 when they launch and I have only run straight distilled + killcoil in all of my loops.
> Doing a re route of my tubing with a few new fittings and I might go with the dye look if its not too much trouble to clean up.


I heard a good way is to boil some vinegar and water. Then take the intake and outake of the res and put them in the bowl of hot vinegar and water and let it run thru your loop a couple times. This is a good way to clean without taking everything apart. I don't think it's as effective as taking everything apart and cleaning it. i think this is more for light cleaning but it sounds like a good idea to mantain your loop.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> haven't posted for a while since my build stagnated waiting on a few parts. A little refresher. Hopefully THE update will be coming soon.
> Can you spot the few little changes that need to be made?


Beautiful Colored Black/Yellow 2013!


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I heard a good way is to boil some vinegar and water. Then take the intake and outake of the res and put them in the bowl of hot vinegar and water and let it run thru your loop a couple times. This is a good way to clean without taking everything apart. I don't think it's as effective as taking everything apart and cleaning it. i think this is more for light cleaning but it sounds like a good idea to mantain your loop.


I don't believe that you want to BOIL it - that's too hot, isn't it ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> haven't posted for a while since my build stagnated waiting on a few parts. A little refresher. Hopefully THE update will be coming soon.
> Can you spot the few little changes that need to be made?


What are those cables above the psu back at the vented slots ?
only 1 hard drive ???
put some rubber along that cut bay edge
rear intake fan ? well, the top fans are exhaust, so ...

udder dan dat, looks mighty juicy, NHS


----------



## wermad

Anyone know where I can find the EK RIVE block *(non-csq!)*? or the Koolance RIVE block?

edit: this ek one:


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find the EK RIVE block *(non-csq!)*? or the Koolance RIVE block?
> 
> edit: this ek one:


I had a tough time finding a block for my RIVE too. Every shop I looked at never had the one I wanted. I just kept waiting for one of the shops to get something back in stock. Luckily for me I only had to wait a few weeks for PPC's to get a MIPS block in that I wanted, sadly it went out of stock right after I ordered mine. It sucks when you can't find the exact part you want!

Looks like there aren't any shops that I know of that even list those blocks anymore. They all seem to list the EK CSQ design and that's pretty much it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find the EK RIVE block *(non-csq!)*? or the Koolance RIVE block?
> 
> edit: this ek one:


Seen the MIPS one?



Seriously considering swapping my SR 2 for one of these boards......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I had a tough time finding a block for my RIVE too. Every shop I looked at never had the one I wanted. I just kept waiting for one of the shops to get something back in stock. Luckily for me I only had to wait a few weeks for PPC's to get a MIPS block in that I wanted, sadly it went out of stock right after I ordered mine. It sucks when you can't find the exact part you want!
> Looks like there aren't any shops that I know of that even list those blocks anymore. They all seem to list the EK CSQ design and that's pretty much it.


Thanks, I'll keep on eye on it







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seen the MIPS one?
> 
> Seriously considering swapping my SR 2 for one of these boards......


I like MIPS but they're a bit more than i want to spend. I'm hoping an EK, Koolance, or a used xspc shows up. I just got a rampage iv extreme. I'm juggling whether or not to keep it if I can sell my lga1155 setup first. The RIVE overclocks like a dream. Its so easy and effortlessly. Damn good board and I can see why they command a high price.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find the EK RIVE block *(non-csq!)*? or the Koolance RIVE block?
> edit: this ek one:


That EK Block would be a great alternative to the MIPS one I want so badly but can never seem to find... but I have a feeling that the non-CSQ EK Block will be just as rare a creature :/


----------



## kkorky

Wife's rig (Haf 922-good things sometimes come in small packages)-80% done-sneak peek











A few 45s/90s need to be added-some tubing re-routing and i plan to shorten a couple of tube lines.

Cable sleeving not finished/Aquaero Pro 5 to be added.

I might also add another rad on the floor (XSPC RX 120)


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find the EK RIVE block *(non-csq!)*? or the Koolance RIVE block?
> edit: this ek one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That EK Block would be a great alternative to the MIPS one I want so badly but can never seem to find... but I have a feeling that the non-CSQ EK Block will be just as rare a creature :/
Click to expand...

Aquatuning said they were getting them in today if I read the date in the correct format.

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13081_MIPS-ASUS-Rampage-4-Extreme-Set-Nickel-POM-Limited-Edition.html


----------



## strong island 1

My tubing is a nightmare. I really need help with it. I'm going to take everything apart this weekend and reroute the tubing. There were so many ports so close together it wasn't as easy as i thought. I only had a weekend to do it because this is also my work computer.






This is with the bigger res. I also have to drill holes to mount a white frozenq res because there is no place to mount a tube res so I had to ziptie a old res to the closest hole.


----------



## NomNomNom

A few 90's and 45's would make that much cleaner!


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> A few 90's and 45's would make that much cleaner!


ya I think that's what I'm going to try. I have really big monsoon 45's and 90's and some small bitspower ones. I am going to try and clean everything up this weekend.

I even had to put a clamp around one of the tubes because it was kinking so bad.

I also just realized I used the wrong inlet on the cpu block. Oh well it's kinda fun to start all over again.


----------



## NomNomNom

Yeah my loops been running for over two years straight because i can't find my old tubing


----------



## Johnny Utah

Kinda want an STH10 now. Can't decide between that or an M8 or an SM8 w/pedestal.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> Kinda want an STH10 now. Can't decide between that or an M8 or an SM8 w/pedestal.


I love the STH10, I am a case labs customer for life. I love it so much. I was going to go with the sm8 with extended top and pedestal but then it would have kinda looked like an STH10 so I just figured the STH10 fit me better. I just need to make some mounting holes for a res.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> My tubing is a nightmare. I really need help with it. I'm going to take everything apart this weekend and reroute the tubing. There were so many ports so close together it wasn't as easy as i thought. I only had a weekend to do it because this is also my work computer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is with the bigger res. I also have to drill holes to mount a white frozenq res because there is no place to mount a tube res so I had to ziptie a old res to the closest hole.


What made you choose that case over the TH 10?

Also how much better is it then the Cosmos 2?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> What made you choose that case over the TH 10?
> Also how much better is it then the Cosmos 2?


caselab cases are absolutely amazing, but expensive as gold.

lots of watercooling options and change-ablilty.


----------



## Systemlord

Delete


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> *I love the STH10, I am a case labs customer for life*. I love it so much. I was going to go with the sm8 with extended top and pedestal but then it would have kinda looked like an STH10 so I just figured the STH10 fit me better. I just need to make some mounting holes for a res.


You and me both!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> Kinda want an STH10 now. Can't decide between that or an M8 or an SM8 w/pedestal.


I was easily able to fit two 560 radiators in the lower chamber, I mainly love the STH10 because the radiator compartments are separated from where the motherboard section is. There's no bulky radiators hanging above and below the motherboard, it's nice so you can show off all your components! The only plus with the M8/TH10 imo is that your twin 360 radiators up top both receive there own fresh air.


----------



## Hokies83

Jim told me there releasing a 120mm top for the TH 10 soon .. so it will also be separated from the MB compartment but with 2x the thickness.

Waiting for the 120mm top so i can buy my TH 10..


----------



## PinzaC55

New CPU waterblock just arrived.


----------



## Slap Dash

Flushed out the coolant in my system today. Replaced some tubing & upgraded to an XSPC Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir & Dual Pumps in Serial. (MOAR FLOW!







)

A Very Perfect Opportunity to Pull Out my Camera for some fresh pics.. Enjoy!.


----------



## NostraD

Very nice slap!


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> What made you choose that case over the TH 10?
> Also how much better is it then the Cosmos 2?


Becuase it has a ton of radiator space and can still fit on my desk pretty easily. I like how the room is more vertical. I like single towers better. I would love to have a TH10 also but this just fit me better. I love having 2 completely separate chambers, it's so amazing.

The cosmos 2 was a really nice case especially for air cooling but just didn't have the rad space. Either way i did waste money on the Cosmos 2 but it's my fault because i knew exactly what the Cosmos 2 was going in. I didn't ever think I was going to watercool so the Cosmos 2 would have been perfect, but i changed my mind. I think the STH10 blows the Cosmos 2 out of the water. I'm trying to sell my Cosmos 2 really cheap or maybe build a backup system with it.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Jim told me there releasing a 120mm top for the TH 10 soon .. so it will also be separated from the MB compartment but with 2x the thickness.
> Waiting for the 120mm top so i can buy my TH 10..


I thought there was always an extended top option for the TH10.


----------



## Slap Dash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Very nice slap!


Cheers mate


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please can you all edit previous posts instead of double posting.
Thanks


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I thought there was always an extended top option for the TH10.


It had a 84mm top now it is getting the 120mm top.


----------



## antonr90

Just finished rebuilding my PC, decided to only to cool the CPU this time around.. LED's give the pictures a slight weird purple hue.


----------



## PinzaC55

Purple hue looks great.


----------



## NomNomNom

Wow it has a really cool effect on the fans


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antonr90*
> 
> Just finished rebuilding my PC, decided to only to cool the CPU this time around.. LED's give the pictures a slight weird purple hue.


is that a dual blue/UV by anychance?


----------



## antonr90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Purple hue looks great.


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> is that a dual blue/UV by anychance?


No its not actually, its the phantom 820's integrated LED system. It's set to glow white in that picture, but the LED's apparently can't make a true white, so you end up getting some mixed colors.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Got my CPU block today:


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Got my CPU block today:












its gold!


----------



## PinzaC55

Nice. Where did you get it? It doesn't seem to be available in the UK.


----------



## audioholic

Installed UV/Purple LED's....not the purple I was going for at all. Hopefully PPCs pulls through for me on Monday and lets me know how their "purple" leds look


----------



## bundymania




----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its gold!


I loooove gold!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Nice. Where did you get it? It doesn't seem to be available in the UK.


I got it off eBay


----------



## nleksan

*antonR90* - beautiful Switch ya got there! The purple actually looks quite unique and not-at-all-"overdone", so I would keep it like it is! In fact, if you could find a way to run an LED strip of the EXACT same color between the motherboard and the MB Panel about 1/2"-to-1" from the edge of the MB down the right and then the same along the bottom edge of the motherboard, it would look even better (although it does look _fantastic_ as is)








I see that you're running your GPU on air, how are the temps?
A suggestion..:








Removing the lower HDD cage will allow for more, cooler air to get to the graphics card faster as the lower-front intake fan will be unobstructed!
Furthermore, you could then add 1-2x 120mm or 140mm fans as bottom intakes (bottom of the case) to bring even more cold air directly to the GPU! That way, you are not "recycling" the same air used to cool the HDD's on the GPU, because the cooler the air is the greater capacity it has to absorb heat. Thus, theoretically, if your ambient is ~20C, your HDD's are 35C, and your GPU runs at 75C as it sits now, that means that the air hitting your GPU has already been warmed by the 15C-warmer Hard Drives (hard drive cages also cause turbulence, which causes stagnation as the same air recirculates and continues absorbing heat, albeit more and more slowly) so it is perhaps ~24-27C by the time it gets to your GPU.
If you were to have the lower HDD bay removed and the two bottom intakes filled as well as the lower-front, you'd be bringing in 3x as much unobstructed 20C air as you would air going past the HDD's, and therefore the air hitting the GPU would be more like ~20-22C. This could possibly drop your GPU temps from the theoretical 75C under load to ~65-71C under load depending on how quickly the same air is exhausted. That's pretty substantial for air cooling, and for simply slapping in two fans at that!
*NOTE: The above temps are HYPOTHETICAL, and are not intended to be 100% accurate, only to serve as an example of the way thermodynamics is working in this "case"

*YouGotJaked* - that is a Beautiful Block!!!







Are you going with a "gold theme"? I could see it being incredibly awesome, so long as you "handle with care"







Don't want to end up with a Ghetto-fabulous Blinged-Out Rig haha, although I'd personally buy you a beer if you managed to put your rig "up on 20's"


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Installed UV/Purple LED's....not the purple I was going for at all. Hopefully PPCs pulls through for me on Monday and lets me know how their "purple" leds look










i got some UV in mines, its just purple, im skeptical about if its even UV


----------



## audioholic

Just purple? That's what I am looking for. What kind did you get?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Just purple? That's what I am looking for. What kind did you get?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_837&products_id=26250

you might be better off with something like

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_837&products_id=21667

the one i got was too short for my raystorm

If you want a purple LED strip let me know, i want to get a different color.


----------



## audioholic

I emailed them and they said they will be checking on the colors to see if it an actual purple. I'll let you know on that strip








Edit: the ones I have now are UV, they are UV like you see at bowling allies. But not purple







thanks man tose are the ones I was looking at and emailed them about.
Edit2:
This is the color I am going for. Pretty sure this was just a color adjustment in photoshop but its from the Raystorm club.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I emailed them and they said they will be checking on the colors to see if it an actual purple. I'll let you know on that strip


it got this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_834&products_id=31799

its a deep violet.

heres a daylight shot



you can see the raystorm LEDs too lol


----------



## antonr90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> *antonR90* - beautiful Switch ya got there! The purple actually looks quite unique and not-at-all-"overdone", so I would keep it like it is! In fact, if you could find a way to run an LED strip of the EXACT same color between the motherboard and the MB Panel about 1/2"-to-1" from the edge of the MB down the right and then the same along the bottom edge of the motherboard, it would look even better (although it does look _fantastic_ as is)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see that you're running your GPU on air, how are the temps?
> A suggestion..:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removing the lower HDD cage will allow for more, cooler air to get to the graphics card faster as the lower-front intake fan will be unobstructed!
> Furthermore, you could then add 1-2x 120mm or 140mm fans as bottom intakes (bottom of the case) to bring even more cold air directly to the GPU! That way, you are not "recycling" the same air used to cool the HDD's on the GPU, because the cooler the air is the greater capacity it has to absorb heat. Thus, theoretically, if your ambient is ~20C, your HDD's are 35C, and your GPU runs at 75C as it sits now, that means that the air hitting your GPU has already been warmed by the 15C-warmer Hard Drives (hard drive cages also cause turbulence, which causes stagnation as the same air recirculates and continues absorbing heat, albeit more and more slowly) so it is perhaps ~24-27C by the time it gets to your GPU.
> If you were to have the lower HDD bay removed and the two bottom intakes filled as well as the lower-front, you'd be bringing in 3x as much unobstructed 20C air as you would air going past the HDD's, and therefore the air hitting the GPU would be more like ~20-22C. This could possibly drop your GPU temps from the theoretical 75C under load to ~65-71C under load depending on how quickly the same air is exhausted. That's pretty substantial for air cooling, and for simply slapping in two fans at that!
> *NOTE: The above temps are HYPOTHETICAL, and are not intended to be 100% accurate, only to serve as an example of the way thermodynamics is working in this "case"


Hey and thanks







, Thats a great idea (removing the lower HDD bay and adding 2 more fans as intake). One thing to note though, the 140MM + 280MM in the front of the case are actually pulling air out.

Since the 690 blows hot air both out of the back and the front of the card, I had to figure out some way to pull the hot air out of the case. The only solution I came up with was to have the 2 front fans as exhaust. Which isn't the best setup since hot air likes to rise, and I end up forcing it out of the lower front.

Temps on the 690 on air aren't TERRIBLE, but they aren't amazing either. It idles very low (33ish), but under load it jumps up to around 75C. Definitely worse than the temps I had with my 580's on water. But personally I REALLY like the look of the stock 690 heatsink/cover, thats pretty much the only reason its not under water.


----------



## kyismaster

most gpu's are 40c idle sub 70c load.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> *YouGotJaked* - that is a Beautiful Block!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going with a "gold theme"? I could see it being incredibly awesome, so long as you "handle with care"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't want to end up with a Ghetto-fabulous Blinged-Out Rig haha, although I'd personally buy you a beer if you managed to put your rig "up on 20's"


Thanks man I'm actually going with a black and gold theme. I've got it partially done (build log is in my sig), but there's not a lot of pictures. Plus, it doesn't look finished to me. I'm gunna (hopefully) go all out on the water cooling and accessories, so it should look pretty tricked out!


----------



## MiiX

The rads are the same, only difference is 120 or 140mm fans. What would be better?
two 2x140
or
3x120 + 1x140


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> The rads are the same, only difference is 120 or 140mm fans. What would be better?
> two 2x140
> or
> 3x120 + 1x140


second option, more surface area.

*edit:

PTnuke, or not to PTnuke

that is the question.*


----------



## Fonne

What combo do you think will perform the best ?

Same manufacture, same fans + speed and very close to the same thickness - But will you pick the thick RAD or go with the Push/pull ?

*XSPC RX120 + 1 Fan* = 63 + 25 mm = *88mm* Thick
- Vs
*XSPC AX120 + 2 Fans* = 40 + 25 + 25 = *90mm* Thick


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> My tubing is a nightmare. I really need help with it. I'm going to take everything apart this weekend and reroute the tubing. There were so many ports so close together it wasn't as easy as i thought. I only had a weekend to do it because this is also my work computer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is with the bigger res. I also have to drill holes to mount a white frozenq res because there is no place to mount a tube res so I had to ziptie a old res to the closest hole.






Now. Where is that motherboard? I see lots of tubing, but no board
















Nice looking







:specool:


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> What combo do you think will perform the best ?
> Same manufacture, same fans + speed and very close to the same thickness - But will you pick the thick RAD or go with the Push/pull ?
> *XSPC RX120 + 1 Fan* = 63 + 25 mm = *88mm* Thick
> - Vs
> *XSPC AX120 + 2 Fans* = 40 + 25 + 25 = *90mm* Thick


damn lol

that is a hard question

the AX should be better, its XSPC premium model,

but the RX is thick as hell lol.


----------



## Rolandooo

Should be leak testing right now, but I had to buy another 90 deg. fitting and another waterblock for the GTX 580... Found out I had a non reference card







Should be up and running next weekend.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*
> 
> Should be leak testing right now, but I had to buy another 90 deg. fitting and another waterblock for the GTX 580... Found out I had a non reference card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be up and running next weekend.


lol what happened in the last 3 pictures? the glow is blinding.


----------



## Kerelm

More here http://www.overclock.net/t/1345938/my-watercooling-build-500r-to-800d


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol what happened in the last 3 pictures? the glow is blinding.


I need to play with the camera settings more. It was either too dark, or too bright lol


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> What combo do you think will perform the best ?
> Same manufacture, same fans + speed and very close to the same thickness - But will you pick the thick RAD or go with the Push/pull ?
> *XSPC RX120 + 1 Fan* = 63 + 25 mm = *88mm* Thick
> - Vs
> *XSPC AX120 + 2 Fans* = 40 + 25 + 25 = *90mm* Thick


Martin proved that push+pull is better than just push.

His testing showed that radiators, regardless of thickness all perform within a very low percentage of each other. Push+pull gives a greater return than a thick radiator vs thin.

Main issue is the added noise and cost of an extra set of fans.

That and you have to consider that just because a radiator is thicker doesn't mean it out performs a thin radiator. Take for example an Alphacool UT60 vs a Swiftech mcr320x. The alphacool radiator is almosy double the thickness of the swiftech but at fan speeds above 1450rpm they perform within a margin of error of each other.


----------



## kyismaster

i think AX is on par with RX

just thinner but better performing.


----------



## D1G1TALD3ATH

Here is my ugly and dusty rig with the h100i so i can join the club. hope to be posting something much cooler in a couple months tho.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D1G1TALD3ATH*
> 
> Here is my ugly and dusty rig with the h100i so i can join the club. hope to be posting something much cooler in a couple months tho.










-waits-


----------



## LayerCakes

Ahh, that H100i certainly is dusty! So dusty I can't even see the rig!


----------



## Number423

Love watching all the activity on this thread. I've been doing PC stuff for a while, but this is my first stab at a loop. Waiting on my fan controller that's coming next week and it'll be complete. Just a couple pics of testing power and fitment. The PC will have some video upgrades once it's finished, possibly SLI but we'll see. Will post pics once it's finished late next week!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Number423*
> 
> Love watching all the activity on this thread. I've been doing PC stuff for a while, but this is my first stab at a loop. Waiting on my fan controller that's coming next week and it'll be complete. Just a couple pics of testing power and fitment. The PC will have some video upgrades once it's finished, possibly SLI but we'll see. Will post pics once it's finished late next week!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/a/img15/3883/waterbox.jpg


all you need is a "welcome to the gates of hell sign"


----------



## Number423

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> all you need is a "welcome to the gates of hell sign"


No kiddin'! Could make that happen...


----------



## NomNomNom

Should i go push pull with a 240mm monsta or push pull with a mcr 320xp and a mcr 120xp? Im looking for max performance and silence


----------



## teamrushpntball

Are you asking push/pull on 240mm worth of radiator vs push/pull on 480mm worth of radiator?


----------



## cky2k6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Should i go push pull with a 240mm monsta or push pull with a mcr 320xp and a mcr 120xp? Im looking for max performance and silence


The more surface area for fans, the better, no matter how fat the smaller rad is.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> second option, more surface area.
> *edit:
> PTnuke, or not to PTnuke
> that is the question.*


How do you calculate/know this?

I did this:
1st
14cm*14cm*6cm*4fan-mounts=4704

2nd
12cm*12cm*6cm*3fan-mounts=2592
+
14cm*14cm*6cm=1176
Equals: 3768

I have no clue how to really do the calculation, but hey, I tried!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> How do you calculate/know this?
> I did this:
> 1st
> 14cm*14cm*6cm*4fan-mounts=4704
> 2nd
> 12cm*12cm*6cm*3fan-mounts=2592
> +
> 14cm*14cm*6cm=1176
> Equals: 3768
> I have no clue how to really do the calculation, but hey, I tried!


I dunno but head hurts.


----------



## LayerCakes

If you want a good representation of your rad size, you only calculate the surface area of one side of each radiator.

A 14cm rad has a surface area of 196 cm2 and a 12cm rad has a surface area of 144 cm2.

So there's 535 cm2 total surface area - (14^2)2+(12^2)=535.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Working out rad surface depends on FPI,thickness and shape of the waterchannel.
Remember,its the Fins that dissipate the heat,frontal surface area is no where near the full surface area for dissipation.

The rule of thumb is 120 for each block in the loop plus a 120 on top,trying to work out surface area and dissipation rates is pointless,far better to just find some testing which includes your chosen rad and how it compares with others.


----------



## LayerCakes

Agreed. Can't get more accurate than physically testing it.


----------



## NostraD

A good while back someone was looking for the EK Supreme LTX (non CSQ design) and this morning I ran across this. May be too late for whoever was looking - but a good price ($30) on what I read to be a good block nevertheless.



http://www.webstore.com/EKSupreme-LTX-water-block,name,20843954,auction_id,auction_details

I have never used the EK plexi block (for intel socket) but those arms look awfully fragile for tightening down the screws. Do they not break easily? Just curious - I'm used to AMD blocks that are so much beefier.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I dunno but head hurts.


Hahaha









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> If you want a good representation of your rad size, you only calculate the surface area of one side of each radiator.
> A 14cm rad has a surface area of 196 cm2 and a 12cm rad has a surface area of 144 cm2.
> So there's 535 cm2 total surface area - (14^2)2+(12^2)=535.


Then My two options would be like this according to your way of calculation:
1st: (14^2)4=784
2nd: (14^2)+(12^2)3=628

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Working out rad surface depends on FPI,thickness and shape of the waterchannel.
> Remember,its the Fins that dissipate the heat,frontal surface area is no where near the full surface area for dissipation.
> The rule of thumb is 120 for each block in the loop plus a 120 on top,trying to work out surface area and dissipation rates is pointless,far better to just find some testing which includes your chosen rad and how it compares with others.


Since the rads I'm comparing has the "same", can I then use LayerCakes method for finding surface area, since its the same kind of rads?


----------



## PinzaC55

The Push/Pull subject is interesting. When I built my new rig at the start of November I had to ditch my Antec H20 920 as it didn't have LGA 2011 fittings. I bought a Corsair H100 and at the same time registered on the Corsair Forum. I wanted to keep as many parts from my old rig as possible and these included 2 x 120mm Phobya Nano 2G fans. Now the PN2's aren't as powerful as the stock H100 fans so I decided to go push/pull with the PN2's Pushing and the H100's pulling. Not surprisingly on a Corsair owned forum I was advised against this on the grounds of the airflow differential between the 2 types of fans and I was told I should "buy Corsair fans". However it seems to work fine and my CPU is usually 30 degrees.
Now I am planning to ditch the H100, using a Hardware Labs Black Ice GT Stealth Lite 360 radiator with 3 PN2G fans. I will test the CPU temps running 3DMark11 benchmark then when I install the 360 rad do the same test and compare the results. If it works I will have saved one fan and in any case I can save five cables from the H100 which will be a total result.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Martin proved that push+pull is better than just push.
> His testing showed that radiators, regardless of thickness all perform within a very low percentage of each other. Push+pull gives a greater return than a thick radiator vs thin.
> Main issue is the added noise and cost of an extra set of fans.
> That and you have to consider that just because a radiator is thicker doesn't mean it out performs a thin radiator. Take for example an Alphacool UT60 vs a Swiftech mcr320x. The alphacool radiator is almosy double the thickness of the swiftech but at fan speeds above 1450rpm they perform within a margin of error of each other.


That's what is so great about Martin's research... you can literally pick your desired speed and capacity and it pretty much picks your rads for you!







Since I knew I wasn't going to use fans that would even go over 1200RPM... the UT60's were a simple choice... for someone else they wouldn't have been the best possibly. And best of all... I didn't have to buy $3K worth of rads and fans to try them all out to discover that little gem of knowledge.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> well most start at that and only go higher, the cheapest around at retail (sapphire ref 7950) is around 435$. (also, note that some of the high price is due to the USD to NIS ratio decrease. i.e. the NIS price in here divided by the stated ratio gives a higher price than around 3 months ago. moved from ~4 to lower than 3.8 which is good for me if i buy something from PPCS or you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> if you want to half a bit more of a laugh (or a heart attack) go *here* and look at some of the prices and divide them by 3.75 . (it scares us all)


$700+ for a 7970!! Ouch, just OUCH! I'm sorry man...







I'll remember to keep that in mind while I'm cursing our 'leaders' under my breath for our great 'economy' over here. It can always be worse, and I need to be thankful for what I have. (Like a system that would have been close to $10K probably if I lived over there!)


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Martin proved that push+pull is better than just push.
> His testing showed that radiators, regardless of thickness all perform within a very low percentage of each other. Push+pull gives a greater return than a thick radiator vs thin.
> Main issue is the added noise and cost of an extra set of fans.
> That and you have to consider that just because a radiator is thicker doesn't mean it out performs a thin radiator. Take for example an Alphacool UT60 vs a Swiftech mcr320x. The alphacool radiator is almosy double the thickness of the swiftech but at fan speeds above 1450rpm they perform within a margin of error of each other.


Thanks









Will take a look at Martins test ... Is building a low noise system, and dont want my fans to run over 1400 rpm ... Is looking at Alphacool XT45 and UT60, but will do some more research


----------



## NomNomNom

Sl
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Are you asking push/pull on 240mm worth of radiator vs push/pull on 480mm worth of radiator?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> The more surface area for fans, the better, no matter how fat the smaller rad is.


Sorry i meant a 80mm 240 rad vs a 25mm 360 rad, the 360 will be just push but the 80mm 240 would be push pull


----------



## iGustopher

Swiftech Thick 240mm RAD w/ GentleTyphoon Fans
Swiftech Apogee HD on i5-2500k
Swiftech cuboid reservoir
Swiftech MCP655
Now looking at the list, I just realized everything except the Primochill tubing is Swiftech! Huh!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> A good while back someone was looking for the EK Supreme LTX (non CSQ design) and this morning I ran across this. May be too late for whoever was looking - but a good price ($30) on what I read to be a good block nevertheless.
> 
> http://www.webstore.com/EKSupreme-LTX-water-block,name,20843954,auction_id,auction_details
> I have never used the EK plexi block (for intel socket) but those arms look awfully fragile for tightening down the screws. Do they not break easily? Just curious - I'm used to AMD blocks that are so much beefier.


Seeing beautiful stuff like that, for that price, makes me want to start a new build, or become a wate cooling hoarder...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like the Troops are lined up for Battle Here.


----------



## vaporizer

if you guys want to be jelly, check out this gents build.

CLICKY

i've been trying to help him, but i am no where as knowledgeable as most the peeps here. little help. Oh, and someone has already suggested setting fire to it and he didn't want to.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> $700+ for a 7970!! Ouch, just OUCH! I'm sorry man...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll remember to keep that in mind while I'm cursing our 'leaders' under my breath for our great 'economy' over here. It can always be worse, and I need to be thankful for what I have. (Like a system that would have been close to $10K probably if I lived over there!)


and that's just the GPUs... (cries a bit more)
but Israel isn't the only one, many countries face that problem. you can taste that a little in UK prices and see it in many European countries. (but in all honesty, some of it is understandable. if you include the shipping to said countries, even with OEM prices to stores, plus customs and also the store profit then you start seeing why things are so f***ed up. a strong roll in the pricing is the currency exchange which by changing changes certain prices)

you can now understand why i am SO EXCITED when offered a 7950 for ~250$

on a different note, how do you guys and gals deal with the Terror of the Dust in your water cooled rigs? (because even with the dust filters on most cases dust gets in)


----------



## cruelntention

Redid my system with a new pump and tubing. Next plan is to replace the front 200mm rad and single exhaust fan.


----------



## LiquidHaus

new rig up and running, though not yet finished. need to find a waterblock that'll fit onto the mosfets. i dont mind modifying the block, but the clearance issue is ridiculous. it has to be 10mm wide at the base for it to work. ugh.


----------



## Hoodz

Here are some recent pics of my current set up





Only thing left is to do cable management which atm is bad


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hoodz*
> 
> Here are some recent pics of my current set up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing left is to do cable management which atm is bad


Awesome rig, but yeah that rat nest is a mess.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hoodz*
> 
> Here are some recent pics of my current set up
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1215668/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1215669/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1215670/width/350/height/700
> Only thing left is to do cable management which atm is bad


You're a quad lover like me!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My tubing is a nightmare. I really need help with it. I'm going to take everything apart this weekend and reroute the tubing. There were so many ports so close together it wasn't as easy as i thought. I only had a weekend to do it because this is also my work computer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is with the bigger res. I also have to drill holes to mount a white frozenq res because there is no place to mount a tube res so I had to ziptie a old res to the closest hole.










Wanted that!

what kind of the case you got there?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted that!
> what kind of the case you got there?


I do believe that's a CaseLabs Magnum STH10.


----------



## Fonne

Is Alphacool making a ST30 to 140mm fans ?

The review that Martin did showed it really performs amazing with 600-1000 rpm fans, but got room to fit a 140mm, and would be a shame not to use that space.

Can fit a 140mm that is ~35mm Thick in push/pull = 85mm total.

That will give me ~10mm of free space from the fan to my PSU .....

190x160x95mm is the space I got, but also need to have some space and not block the fans totally.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is Alphacool making a ST30 to 140mm fans ?
> 
> The review that Martin did showed it really performs amazing with 600-1000 rpm fans, but got room to fit a 140mm, and would be a shame not to use that space.
> 
> Can fit a 140mm that is ~35mm Thick in push/pull = 85mm total.
> 
> That will give me ~10mm of free space from the fan to my PSU .....
> 
> 190x160x95mm is the space I got, but also need to have some space and not block the fans totally.


One of my rads is an alphacool NexXxos xXT 45mm x 120 in the rear exhaust. You can use a 140mm fan with 120mm layout like the THermalright TY-14, or the Noctua NF-P14.
and yes ,they are excellent rads.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> One of my rads is an alphacool NexXxos xXT 45mm x 120 in the rear exhaust. You can use a 140mm fan with 120mm layout like the THermalright TY-14, or the Noctua NF-P14.
> and yes ,they are excellent rads.


Why would you use a 140mm fan though, wouldnt you lose a ton of air pressure by doing so? Just wondering.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> One of my rads is an alphacool NexXxos xXT 45mm x 120 in the rear exhaust. You can use a 140mm fan with 120mm layout like the THermalright TY-14, or the Noctua NF-P14.
> and yes ,they are excellent rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why would you use a 140mm fan though, wouldnt you lose a ton of air pressure by doing so? Just wondering.
Click to expand...

On a single fan rad like that I think It's a horse apiece. with a square 120mm fan the corners are covering up some of the channels/fins. With a fan like the NF P14 those channels get air. I tried both on my XT45mm x 120mm and there was no difference in performance.
BTW, I thought you were asking if you COULD use a 140mm fan on them, and the two I listyed both are 140mm fans with 120mm screw layout.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I do believe that's a CaseLabs Magnum STH10.


You're accurate after goggled it..


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> new rig up and running, though not yet finished. need to find a waterblock that'll fit onto the mosfets. i dont mind modifying the block, but the clearance issue is ridiculous. it has to be 10mm wide at the base for it to work. ugh.


what does your case window say?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> what does your case window say?


"Useless" lol. That's what it says.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> what does your case window say?


"Useless" from the looks of it


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> "Useless" lol. That's what it says.
> Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> "Useless" from the looks of it


I thought so.
i didn't want to seem rude.


----------



## OverClocker55

Need some water cooling help








http://www.overclock.net/t/1346541/noob-water-cooling-my-680-i5-400r-case-help-needed


----------



## jassilamba

I changed the design of the window on my 810, thought I would share:


----------



## manosanta13

hey guys this box is moonlight name


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manosanta13*
> 
> hey guys this box is moonlight name


thats alot of reservoirs lol


----------



## OverClocker55

To much for me. LOL


----------



## manosanta13

jajajajajajajajaja ok thank you my friend.I have 6 water systems


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manosanta13*
> 
> jajajajajajajajaja ok thank you my friend.I have 6 water systems


----------



## kamikaze_




----------



## OverClocker55

Thanks For The Help! I noticed everyone that helped me came from here








http://www.overclock.net/t/1346541/first-time-watercooling-corsair-400r-case


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> thats alot of reservoirs lol


Is it really necessary to quote so many pictures, not everyone has a blazing fast internet connection. Just saying...


----------



## teamrushpntball

Just saying..... that there's a reason for spoiler tags?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Is it really necessary to quote so many pictures, not everyone has a blazing fast internet connection. Just saying...


I used to say that, but no one cared, so i guess I stopped aswell









Used to say 56k rule, but people would be like "what kind of crappy computer are you running, I don't even think DSL exists anymore"

lol.


----------



## OverClocker55

Haha mobile spammed. Anyways so stoked to get my build under water


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I used to say that, but no one cared, so i guess I stopped aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used to say 56k rule, but people would be like "what kind of crappy computer are you running, I don't even think DSL exists anymore"
> lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Is it really necessary to quote so many pictures, not everyone has a blazing fast internet connection. Just saying...


Average Internet speeds in the United States are 4.9Mbit/s... and we are ranked pretty low.

I know Canada has problems with caps, but I mean.... A few images aren't a big deal anymore.

It's more or less just annoying when people don't use the spoiler tag or just quote one image.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Do not quote more than 1 pic please,spoiler anything over 1 pic.
That is a hard and fast rule of this thread,you all know this already.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Is there a full cover wc block for the Asus HD 7970 Matrix?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Is there a full cover wc block for the Asus HD 7970 Matrix?


Liquid extasy do them.

http://www.liquid-extasy.de/index.php/7-news/155-hd-7970-matrix-wasserkuehler


----------



## Klinkey

The thing is a pain in the ass to drain, but finally got the GPU under water and finally (completely) finished my rig, time to save for my gap year eurotrip.


----------



## OverClocker55

Nice looking rig


----------



## Klinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Nice looking rig


Thanks


----------



## OverClocker55

Well getting a XSPC X20 720 from a fellow OCN user. Next I need the Rad,Blocks and tubing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Klinkey,you dont need to spoiler your own pics,just pics that are quoted. When i get get to this page during updating,there is a good chance i wont add the pics as they are hidden.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I used to say that, but no one cared, so i guess I stopped aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used to say 56k rule, but people would be like "what kind of crappy computer are you running, I don't even think DSL exists anymore"
> lol.


No big deal, it just clutters up the thread and I have seen three different posters quote the same six pictures. Now back to the regular scheduled program.


----------



## Klinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Klinkey,you dont need to spoiler your own pics,just pics that are quoted. When i get get to this page during updating,there is a good chance i wont add the pics as they are hidden.


fixed


----------



## kcuestag

Please only quote 1 picture per quote, and put the rest on spoilers.

Seems like the forum is having some double-post (And even triple







) issues, if you see you posted a few times in a row, feel free to PM so I can delete them.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Thanks for cleaning that up for me kcue, swear I only hit submit once on my phone









To make up for it....... Rig Shots!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I used to say that, but no one cared, so i guess I stopped aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used to say 56k rule, but people would be like "what kind of crappy computer are you running, I don't even think DSL exists anymore"
> lol.


I would say that it's really not a connection speed issue. It just gets annoying when you have to scroll through the same pictures over and over


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> One of my rads is an alphacool NexXxos xXT 45mm x 120 in the rear exhaust. You can use a 140mm fan with 120mm layout like the THermalright TY-14, or the Noctua NF-P14.
> and yes ,they are excellent rads.


Using a 140mm fan with a 120mm layout just dont give me the surface area, that the 140mm RAD got .... They make both the UT60 and XT45 in 120 and 140mm, but not the ST30







... Would just have been a killer slim RAD, need to find something else now ...

ST30 + 2x Fan = 85mm
UT60 + 1 Fan = 85mm

But since I am going after a low noise system with ~1000 rpm fans, the Push/Pull would be nice to have ... Need to find the best slim 140mm RAD out there







(Low noise)


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> what does your case window say?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> "Useless" lol. That's what it says.
> Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> "Useless" from the looks of it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I thought so.
> i didn't want to seem rude.


Lol it doesn't offend me that your making fun kyis. Useless is a group of car guys - west coast inspired style but with european automobiles - air ride/laying frame/hence useless. I spend just as much time with that crew as I do computers so I decided to throw the useless sticker on there.


----------



## MiiX

Is it possible to fit this between a CPU and GPU, when using the first PCIe slot?
45degree fitting from CPU
G1/4 extender (http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=696)
Q-fitting
Bitspower Valve
G1/4 extender (http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=696)
30degree fitting to GPU

Is this possible with a little tubing between or will it be to little space?
Im Planning on having enough rads in the case to make it "portable" but when I'm at home i want to be able to use rads from outside the case.

Something like this: Sorry for awsome paint skills...


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klinkey*
> 
> The thing is a pain in the ass to drain, but finally got the GPU under water and finally (completely) finished my rig, time to save for my gap year eurotrip.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pure smexiness







i bet that you tried to achieve that Green UV fan effect and i must say it is gorgeous ! (too bad it is practically impossible to achieve a similar effect with red fans and/or purely the red color







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Thanks for cleaning that up for me kcue, swear I only hit submit once on my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make up for it....... Rig Shots!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


simply amazing. (now reconsidering getting the EK blocks







)
btw, is the white lighting reawlly that bright or is it the camera?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Using a 140mm fan with a 120mm layout just dont give me the surface area, that the 140mm RAD got .... They make both the UT60 and XT45 in 120 and 140mm, but not the ST30
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Would just have been a killer slim RAD, need to find something else now ...
> ST30 + 2x Fan = 85mm
> UT60 + 1 Fan = 85mm
> But since I am going after a low noise system with ~1000 rpm fans, the Push/Pull would be nice to have ... Need to find the best slim 140mm RAD out there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Low noise)


i'd recommend you the XT45 140 rad since the XT45 is very close in performance to the UT60 and takes less space. also since its a pretty low FPI rad (AFAIK 10fpi) IMO you could live with just push with a 140 fan @1000 rpm.

On a different note, how do you water coolers handle the dust problem? (since most dust filters don't quite cut it)


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> On a different note, how do you water coolers handle the dust problem? (since most dust filters don't quite cut it)


I've had good success with DemciFlex filters. Plus I use some canned air to about once a week to help keep dust build up to a minimum


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've had good success with DemciFlex filters. Plus I use some canned air to about once a week to help keep dust build up to a minimum


Do you use the custom ones or the regular ones (the ines which aren't custom made for a specific case) ?
also, my two main problems is that they are A. expensive and B. block fan airflow.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted that!
> what kind of the case you got there?


Yes it's a case labs STH10. It's the most amazing case I have ever bought. Hopefully I won't have to upgrade my case for a long time but if I do it will be another case labs.

I know I haven't really done it justice with my tubing and design job but i had to rush building it for work. Every weekend I am going to work on improving it. I am also waiting for a new reservoir from frozenq.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i'd recommend you the XT45 140 rad since the XT45 is very close in performance to the UT60 and takes less space. also since its a pretty low FPI rad (AFAIK 10fpi) IMO you could live with just push with a 140 fan @1000 rpm.
> On a different note, how do you water coolers handle the dust problem? (since most dust filters don't quite cut it)


Thanks







... This is how my shopping card looks right now:



Alphacool XT45 140mm @ Push
Alphacool UT60 120mm @ Push/Pull

120mm Akasa @ 1300 rpm / 57.53 CFM / 16.05 dB(A) / 2.64 mm H2O
140mm Akasa @ 1300 rpm / 89.55 CFM / 22.19 dB(A) / 2.76 mm H2O

Not done on research, but its getting closer, and thanks to all the help here







... Think the Akasa fans really got a high static pressure, but is still looking on these:

Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan - 1450 RPM
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10210/fan-654/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1450_RPM_D1225C12B4AP-14.html?tl=g36c15s60

Could fit the UT60 140mm insteed of the XT45, but with low rpm fans I really dont think it will perform better, and it will be closer to my PSU blocking airflow ... ST30 in a 140mm Push/Pull would be just perfect, but need to find the best alternative


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i'd recommend you the XT45 140 rad since the XT45 is very close in performance to the UT60 and takes less space. also since its a pretty low FPI rad (AFAIK 10fpi) IMO you could live with just push with a 140 fan @1000 rpm.
> On a different note, how do you water coolers handle the dust problem? (since most dust filters don't quite cut it)


Yes the XT45 actually outperforms the UT60 at the 600 RPM range.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... This is how my shopping card looks right now:
> 
> Alphacool XT45 140mm @ Push
> Alphacool UT60 120mm @ Push/Pull
> 120mm Akasa @ 1300 rpm / 57.53 CFM / 16.05 dB(A) / 2.64 mm H2O
> 140mm Akasa @ 1300 rpm / 89.55 CFM / 22.19 dB(A) / 2.76 mm H2O
> Not done on research, but its getting closer, and thanks to all the help here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Think the Akasa fans really got a high static pressure, but is still looking on these:
> Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan - 1450 RPM
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10210/fan-654/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1450_RPM_D1225C12B4AP-14.html?tl=g36c15s60
> Could fit the UT60 140mm insteed of the XT45, but with low rpm fans I really dont think it will perform better, and it will be closer to my PSU blocking airflow ... ST30 in a 140mm Push/Pull would be just perfect, but need to find the best alternative


Looks good. Same radiators I have in my loop and very similar fans. I just have the yellow ones. You won't be disappointed. I run mine at 800 rpm and they are nice and quite and do a great job!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Do you use the custom ones or the regular ones (the ines which aren't custom made for a specific case) ?
> also, my two main problems is that they are A. expensive and B. block fan airflow.


I just use the standard ones. I've bought a couple different sizes, 140mm, 120mm, and 480mm radiator filter. I have a 140mm one in use right now that I clean off once a week when I air dust everything else and there is always a decent amount of dust on it. As for air flow, they really aren't too restrictive. I just put my hand behind the fan and there isn't too much of a difference between with the filter and without. But, like you said, they can get fairly expensive.
If you're looking for cheap, quick, and easy, I used sheer nylon pantyhose on the computer I use at work and that works pretty well too. Not as good as the DemciFlex, but you cant beat the pantyhose for the price.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... This is how my shopping card looks right now:
> 
> Alphacool XT45 140mm @ Push
> Alphacool UT60 120mm @ Push/Pull
> 120mm Akasa @ 1300 rpm / 57.53 CFM / 16.05 dB(A) / 2.64 mm H2O
> 140mm Akasa @ 1300 rpm / 89.55 CFM / 22.19 dB(A) / 2.76 mm H2O
> Not done on research, but its getting closer, and thanks to all the help here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Think the Akasa fans really got a high static pressure, but is still looking on these:
> Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan - 1450 RPM
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10210/fan-654/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1450_RPM_D1225C12B4AP-14.html?tl=g36c15s60
> Could fit the UT60 140mm insteed of the XT45, but with low rpm fans I really dont think it will perform better, and it will be closer to my PSU blocking airflow ... ST30 in a 140mm Push/Pull would be just perfect, but need to find the best alternative


great so far. (btw, on OCN you never really done with research







)
only thing i'd recommend you is A. you should consider to slow those Apaches down a bit since some say that these are a bit noisy on full blast.
and B.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Yes the XT45 actually outperforms the UT60 at the 600 RPM range.


the XT45 is pretty much equal to the UT60 and takes less space so maybe you should get only the XT45s. (though the price difference on single 120 rads between the 2 isn't that dramatic)

Quote:


> I just have the yellow ones. You won't be disappointed. I run mine at 800 rpm and they are nice and quite and do a great job!


and the yellow Akasa fans are pure awesomeness








(things left to do: find good looking Red fans. either UV similar to nanoxia or some kind of red glow or just red colored blades that look good)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I just use the standard ones. I've bought a couple different sizes, 140mm, 120mm, and 480mm radiator filter. I have a 140mm one in use right now that I clean off once a week when I air dust everything else and there is always a decent amount of dust on it. As for air flow, they really aren't too restrictive. I just put my hand behind the fan and there isn't too much of a difference between with the filter and without. But, like you said, they can get fairly expensive.
> If you're looking for cheap, quick, and easy, I used sheer nylon pantyhose on the computer I use at work and that works pretty well too. Not as good as the DemciFlex, but you cant beat the pantyhose for the price.


my debate is by having the C70 case either getting the custom pack for it or the individual standard ones. (the C70 pack has a useful bottom filter but it has a not so necessary top one. the pack is 55$ but separately it racks up fast to the same price and maybe beyond)


----------



## OverClocker55

Anyone recommend a good way to drain a loop? Like what do I need? Thx


----------



## davwman

The 140mm akasa vipers are ridiculous! I have them, they can be noisy though, slow them down a bit and you'll be happy.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Anyone recommend a good way to drain a loop? Like what do I need? Thx


Simple. T-fitting at the lowest point of the loop; gravity will do the rest.


----------



## OverClocker55

Alright in this picture. Where would I put the T-fitting?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Alright in this picture. Where would I put the T-fitting?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Between cpu block and res. Lowest point the loop droops.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Alright in this picture. Where would I put the T-fitting?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd put it on the tube going from CPU to Res, exact location on the tube is up you you
EDIT: ninja'd by lifeisshort, who I didn't recognize with the new avatar lol


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Alright in this picture. Where would I put the T-fitting?


that's a tough decision on that design of a loop. i'd say either between the Res/Pump combo to the CPU block tubing if you don't mind the look of it (for some it might ruin but for others it might not) or right on the Res/Pump combo bottom out port (same tubing as the first option) and add to it a tube (with a seal or a valve or something) for ease of draining. another option is to add a QDC to the bottom port of the T fitting.


----------



## OverClocker55

If it was like this (red tube) where would I put it? Still deciding on an X-Flow rad or a rad from an ocn user. none X-Flow.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> If it was like this (red tube) where would I put it? Still deciding on an X-Flow rad or a rad from an ocn user. none X-Flow.


i guess the red tube is instead of the white one that goes from the CPU bloc to the rad.
still, the recommended spot for the drain T fitting is on the tube between the CPU block and the res since it's the lowest point in your loop.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'd put it on the tube going from CPU to Res, exact location on the tube is up you you
> EDIT: ninja'd by lifeisshort, who I didn't recognize with the new avatar lol


And I'm on my phone








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> If it was like this (red tube) where would I put it? Still deciding on an X-Flow rad or a rad from an ocn user. none X-Flow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Same place. Itd have to be the lowest point, no matter what.


----------



## OverClocker55

Alright now which setup is better? X-Flow rad or the normal one where both tubes come from 1 side. Just trying to decide. Anyways picked out a good T fitting


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Yes the XT45 actually outperforms the UT60 at the 600 RPM range.


Yeah, the ST30 and XT45 really works well with 600-1000 rpm fans








Quote:


> Looks good. Same radiators I have in my loop and very similar fans. I just have the yellow ones. You won't be disappointed. I run mine at 800 rpm and they are nice and quite and do a great job!


Thanks







- Has been looking at the Yellow ones (Viper), and think they will do well @ 7v - The price is not important this time ...
Quote:


> reat so far. (btw, on OCN you never really done with research tongue.gif )
> only thing i'd recommend you is A. you should consider to slow those Apaches down a bit since some say that these are a bit noisy on full blast.
> and B.


My plan was to run them @ 1000 rpm, and hope it is quiet








Quote:


> the XT45 is pretty much equal to the UT60 and takes less space so maybe you should get only the XT45s. (though the price difference on single 120 rads between the 2 isn't that dramatic)


The price is very close, so dont think it will make any big different .... Just want the best that I can fit, and still be low noise


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> 
> simply amazing. (now reconsidering getting the EK blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> btw, is the white lighting reawlly that bright or is it the camera?
> On a different note, how do you water coolers handle the dust problem? (since most dust filters don't quite cut it)


Mix of the lighting being rather bright and a fairly light screen on my 27" monitor at the time. Just took a few quick shots to apologize for quad posting from my crapberry.
And as to dust, I have filters that came with my ColdZero grills in the rear intakes. Then cheapo Silverstone fans on my 480 rad intakes, which will be replaced with ColdZero ones as well when I splurge on his TJ07 sidepanel grills.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Alright now which setup is better? X-Flow rad or the normal one where both tubes come from 1 side. Just trying to decide. Anyways picked out a good T fitting


Normal design is more efficient than an x-Flow because the liquid passes through twice rather than once with the x-Flow.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Normal design is more efficient than an x-Flow because the liquid passes through twice rather than once with the x-Flow.


Exactly, only reason to go X-flow are major space constraints.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Normal design is more efficient than an x-Flow because the liquid passes through twice rather than once with the x-Flow.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly, only reason to go X-flow are major space constraints.
Click to expand...

They are smaller I'm guessing?


----------



## teamrushpntball

Not in particular, the barb placement being on opposite sides can be helpful. Especially when the mobo 8-pin may block a top mounted rad from being there due to one of the two barbs covering it.

IE my first water cooled build in a 600T


----------



## OverClocker55

Looks like the X-Flow might be easier but since I can get a rad from a ocn user for 45$ I think I'll snag that. Just need a 90 fitting then.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> My plan was to run them @ 1000 rpm, and hope it is quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The price is very close, so dont think it will make any big different .... Just want the best that I can fit, and still be low noise


Yes they are reasonably quiet at 1000 RPM. My vipers are definitely not quiet at the stock 1600 RPM though. It's amazing the difference between 1600 and 1000.


----------



## Stevesack

Just finished it last week, learned alot, it is my first loop. I also plan to add my vid card to the loop soon


----------



## walldo

Very clean


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Lol it doesn't offend me that your making fun kyis. Useless is a group of car guys - west coast inspired style but with european automobiles - air ride/laying frame/hence useless. I spend just as much time with that crew as I do computers so I decided to throw the useless sticker on there.


that brings much more light with a backstory now lol.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevesack*
> 
> 
> Just finished it last week, learned alot, it is my first loop. I also plan to add my vid card to the loop soon


Cable management?


----------



## Stevesack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Cable management?


Soon. I was up til 3 am working on it to get it to this point.


----------



## Canis-X

I understand completely there...LOL. You just get to a point where you can't see straight or think any longer and you gots to rack out for a while.

Cheers!


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> I understand completely there...LOL. You just get to a point where you can't see straight or think any longer and you gots to rack out for a while.
> Cheers!


As soon as I turn my PC on


----------



## Canis-X

I hear ya there Smurf!!! LOL


----------



## PinzaC55

Just on the subject of Cable Management I am a bit of an obsessive. Is there anyone in the UK who does custom cables to order?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> I understand completely there...LOL. You just get to a point where you can't see straight or think any longer and you gots to rack out for a while.
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as I turn my PC on
Click to expand...

You turn it _off_?


----------



## Canis-X

Oh yeah, if I am not in my office working/playing with it, then it is off.....power hog...LOL....plus it is not sucking the dust bunnies into my RAD's....LOL


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Heres my redone loop with blood red tubing and 2x 7970s i need to repaint the rads and case and do a full tear down to get everything really clean but dont see that happening anytime soon aslong as its mosty clean and runs cool im good.


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well...Bitfenix have sent me a white Survivor to mod and Aquatuning are providing the loop,CPU and GPU full cover with backplate plus the rad,Alphacool UT 240.
> MOAR DREMEL!!!
> I think painted copper tube this time.
> Using my favorite car of all time as the theme!
> 
> The mighty RS 200!!
> I am really looking forward to doing this one.


cant wait to see trying to buy an evo myself but rare to see on the market, Group B


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R




----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*


Well done! looks really good and clean, nice shot btw
the only thing that bothers me is the white zip ties for your Power, but hey it might be my OCD


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*
> 
> Heres my redone loop with blood red tubing and 2x 7970s i need to repaint the rads and case and do a full tear down to get everything really clean but dont see that happening anytime soon aslong as its mosty clean and runs cool im good.


Are your push fans on your top rad being held on by 2 screws each? **OCD twitch**


----------



## Plutonium10

Looks like the water cooled build I started in October is still on hold! While i was away for Christmas, I finally got my Sapphire 7970 back from a 9-week RMA for coil whine, and now that I've installed it, it whines TWICE AS LOUD! If they ask me to ship it back for another lengthy holiday in Taiwan, I will go postal.


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys! Went to install my XSPC DDC top tonight and hit a snag....


The screws supplied with the top do not fit in the pump holes...and the originals are way to short. Do I drill the holes out to make them bigger or get some other machine screws to fit in there?


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys! Went to install my XSPC DDC top tonight and hit a snag....
> 
> 
> The screws supplied with the top do not fit in the pump holes...and the originals are way to short. Do I drill the holes out to make them bigger or get some other machine screws to fit in there?


Take all the pieces you need and head for your local hardware store and seek their fastener aisle. They should have a sizing chart of some sort and tons of bins full of bolts to dig through.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys! Went to install my XSPC DDC top tonight and hit a snag....
> 
> 
> The screws supplied with the top do not fit in the pump holes...and the originals are way to short. Do I drill the holes out to make them bigger or get some other machine screws to fit in there?


The threads are on the top, so you can bore out the pump bottom housing a bit to fit the screws. Just don't drill either top (new and stock)!!!!!!!!

Make sure you don't over do it if you need to go back to the stock housing.


----------



## audioholic

I think Ill just dig for the machine screws...or do I need these screws?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I think Ill just dig for the machine screws...or do I need these screws?


The stock screws should be M4 but I've seen some tops use different sizes. Again, there's no harm if you bore out a little bit of the pump's bottom housing to slide the new screws. the most important part is the top, that's where the threads need to grab.

If you don't want to bore out slightly larger holes on the bottom housing, just take the screws to a hardware store; there should be a thread identifier tool there or ask an employee. You wanna look for full threaded screws to clear the hole. It looks like the ones supplied with your new top are slightly wider on the non-threaded end.


----------



## audioholic

Thanks guys...plus rep to all


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> Are your push fans on your top rad being held on by 2 screws each? **OCD twitch**


LOl yea 2 screws for the fans on the bottom the fans on the top are ones hold the rad in place i got 6 screws in the rad.


----------



## Hokies83

Well Since CyberDruid is gone where do you go to get a huge off the wall res these days?


----------



## KJ4MRC

Just finished my CPU loop


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well Since CyberDruid is gone where do you go to get a huge off the wall res these days?


there's a few 400mm ones. Koolance makes adapters to link several tube res together.

How about a 400mm helix res from FrozenQ. And, those arguing quality issues, just contact Alex and he'll help you out







.

Thinking of getting two bay helix res'


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Thanks for cleaning that up for me kcue, swear I only hit submit once on my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make up for it....... Rig Shots!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Where on earth did you get that long and narrow mouse pad?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Thanks for cleaning that up for me kcue, swear I only hit submit once on my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make up for it....... Rig Shots!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where on earth did you get that long and narrow mouse pad?
Click to expand...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826999088


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

I have a quick question but didn't want to start a new thread to address it. I cleaned out my radiator when I ripped down my system about a week ago, went though the rinse/vinegar mixture and all. The rad has been sitting for a week or so, do I need to redo this process before I assemble or should it be good to go?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*
> 
> I have a quick question but didn't want to start a new thread to address it. I cleaned out my radiator when I ripped down my system about a week ago, went though the rinse/vinegar mixture and all. The rad has been sitting for a week or so, do I need to redo this process before I assemble or should it be good to go?


nah you should be good, as long as the initial rinse was a thorough one.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826999088


Thank you sir.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826999088
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you sir.
Click to expand...

You're welcome


----------



## teamrushpntball

Amazon is about 4 bucks cheaper fyi. Also they have them in stock and ship free. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JMZXMK/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well Since CyberDruid is gone where do you go to get a huge off the wall res these days?
> 
> 
> 
> there's a few 400mm ones. Koolance makes adapters to link several tube res together.
> 
> How about a 400mm helix res from FrozenQ. And, those arguing quality issues, just contact Alex and he'll help you out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thinking of getting two bay helix res'
Click to expand...

400mm Bitspower,quality assured.


----------



## EnticingSausage

Getting a bitspower 250 actually, are the full acrylic ones alright? Always been a bit weary of acrylic in my builds


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Getting a bitspower 250 actually, are the full acrylic ones alright? Always been a bit weary of acrylic in my builds


IMO, all of he Bitspower reservoirs are outstanding. I haven't really heard anything bad about them (and I use them myself, a 250mm as well), albeit I use the ones with black POM tops.


----------



## EnticingSausage

Yeah I have to say they look extremely nice and clean, I've heard screwing fittings into acrylic can crack easy


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Yeah I have to say they look extremely nice and clean, I've heard screwing fittings into acrylic can crack easy


To me, it's just like everything else with water cooling though. A gentle touch and care is needed in building. I'm sure if you know what you are doing, it would be more than fine. I mean, there are so many other things that can go wrong with water cooling that it seem silly for that to drive you away IMO. I mean, we are putting WATER in our PC's after all.







Have you thought about just getting the POM top versions and painting the tops to a color of your liking? Could alleviate some of the worry you have, and still get you that quality and attractive Bitspower reservoir.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Yeah I have to say they look extremely nice and clean, I've heard screwing fittings into acrylic can crack easy
> 
> 
> 
> To me, it's just like everything else with water cooling though. A gentle touch and care is needed in building. I'm sure if you know what you are doing, it would be more than fine. I mean, there are so many other things that can go wrong with water cooling that it seem silly for that to drive you away IMO. I mean, we are putting WATER in our PC's after all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you thought about just getting the POM top versions and painting the tops to a color of your liking? Could alleviate some of the worry you have, and still get you that quality and attractive Bitspower reservoir.
Click to expand...

Very much this.

I use the 250mm POM version also.



One of the best quality res you can buy,the cracking you get is with lower quality vendors and its normally in sheet material.
I wouldnt hesitate to recommend them as they are pretty much all i use.

The reason for the clear ends is that the light plug fitting sits just inside the cap so the light is weak and directional,these new caps get around that.


----------



## EnticingSausage

Yeah I reckon I'll go for the full acrylic then, live life on the edge and all that









Cheers


----------



## manosanta13

thank you very much to all ....... The other news is that radiator to the left of the picture right out of a truck
now runs on my pc .exclusively for the processor, temperature of 37.47 C. 4.8 GHZ ,1.42 v.


----------



## PinzaC55

This may sound like a daft question and has probably been asked before, but I have just got a Phobya DC12-220 pump which only has a 3 pin fan header and the cable is nowhere near long enough to reach the CPU header on my mobo. Would I be ok to connect it to my Lamptron fan controller instead or should I buy an extension cable? I've tried Googling this but but the info for watercooling is totally fragmented and mostly just applies to Corsair coolers.The pump comes with no instructions at all.


----------



## EnticingSausage

Fan controller will be fine assuming it's powerful enough (probably is). Don't run a pump off the mobo header it can burn it out. Make sure you run enough voltage for the pump to start though


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful Pics.. Well Done.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Fan controller will be fine assuming it's powerful enough (probably is). Don't run a pump off the mobo header it can burn it out. Make sure you run enough voltage for the pump to start though


Thanks for your reply - especially the bit about burning the CPU header out- the Lamptron provides 0-12 volts and up to 30 watts on each channel and the pump is 12 volts 6.5 watts so I should be OK. Glad I asked.


----------



## EnticingSausage

Yeah thats more than enough, not sure on that pump but most require around 8-9 for startup.


----------



## DutchChilles

Linus just did a vid on the 900D at CES. It looks awesome!
Only problem is, it's not for sale yet, and personal problem is, i just bought a Switch 810.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0Q7xF07_eg


----------



## PinzaC55

I found a review on xtremehardware which is translated from Italian but still legible and they compared the three Phobya pumps - 220, 260 and 400 - in great detail and from memory I think they said the 220 only required 3-4 volts to start up.They reckon the 220 has relatively poor performance and the 260 suffers from not being able to be dismantled, but I have the 220 so its too late.

http://www.xtremehardware.com/eng-reviews/comparative-test-of-phobya-dc12-220-dc12-260-and-dc12-400-pumps-201107105434/


----------



## LayerCakes

Any price yet?

I think it's a tad big tbh.


----------



## RKTGX95

(pictures taken from Performance-PCS )


----------



## PinzaC55

He didn't show the side panel - does it have a fan directing air at the GPU's? I suspect it doesn't.


----------



## DutchChilles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Any price yet?
> I think it's a tad big tbh.


The size doesn't bother me, i like it and it gives you lots of options for radiators etc.
In the video they talk about a price of about $350. It's not cheap, but it's for extreme buyers, and it's cheaper then caselabs.


----------



## DutchChilles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> He didn't show the side panel - does it have a fan directing air at the GPU's? I suspect it doesn't.


That i don't know, but is that really necessary with the 3x120mm in the front? The HDD cages also have the option for push-pull, so GPU aircooling should not be a problem.

EDIT: Just found this picture, so it's a no. But again, with 3x120mm in the front you don't really need a sidefan. It would get in the way of that nice big window, man this case looks awesome!


----------



## ToothBear

bougth a ek vga suprememacy, but it did not fit my 560 ti does it exist an adapter for this card?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> That i don't know, but is that really necessary with the 3x120mm in the front? The HDD cages also have the option for push-pull, so GPU aircooling should not be a problem.
> 
> EDIT: Just found this picture, so it's a no. But again, with 3x120mm in the front you don't really need a sidefan. It would get in the way of that nice big window, man this case looks awesome!


I guess they would argue that most people who buy this size and cost of case will likely go for watercooled GPU's anyway but it doesn't alter the fact that if you don't then you don't have a fan directing air at the GPU's which was a criticism of the other Corsair cases.
The Caselabs cases aren't an option for us Brits unless we feel like importing one and paying sky high import duty.


----------



## Bart

I don't understand why someone on air would even consider a case like this, but that's just me. If you're only air cooling, you have tons of other options. I'm holding off on a Caselabs box until this lands!


----------



## LayerCakes

Still prefer the TJ011.


----------



## freitz

The price is going to be the deal breaker for that case. If its too high there are much nicer cases that allow for customization vs the corsair case.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> The price is going to be the deal breaker for that case. If its too high there are much nicer cases that allow for customization vs the corsair case.


well, George said in Linus's video that it is gonna be @ 350$ which puts it right against the CM Cosmos II. and it would be hard to justify the purchase of the cosmos2 when this launches.

and really no comment on the carbon fiber fittings? or are they really dull / not good looking?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (pictures taken from Performance-PCS )


----------



## freitz

I think it would be hard to justify the purchase in general given the other options around the 400$ mark. CaseLabs, Little Devils new case, Mountain Mods. This is all speculation since I haven't actually played with the case.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I think it would be hard to justify the purchase in general given the other options around the 400$ mark. CaseLabs, Little Devils new case, Mountain Mods. This is all speculation since I haven't actually played with the case.


well, it isn't quite at the 400$ range but a bit bellow. additionally it is very capable just as the other cases and considering it is assembled (to some it matters), cheaper and has Corsair features and looks it would sell well IMO. though some might not like its style and would opt for different cases and the opposite too.


----------



## NostraD

Just a few weeks late on the carbon monsoons, but the first pictures didn't get much of a response either. I think many are not impressed - I wasn't. I love my original monsoon free centers - but the carbon ones - not so much.


----------



## Bart

I think the carbon fittings look a bit silly myself. I've seen enough carbon fibre overdose on BMWs that I'm quite sick of it. Here, it looks cheesy. I'll take a nice flat finish over that any day. I don't HATE them, but I wouldn't buy them.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> really no comment on the carbon fiber fittings? or are they really dull / not good looking?


I think they are ugly and take away from the cool colors of the originals.


----------



## Canis-X

^^ I'm with you. I think the CF look came along too strong + too quick and now has gone the way of "that's so 2009'ish". I like my flat black!


----------



## RKTGX95

it's not that i enforce on you all the CF monsoons (though PPCS would like to







) and i agree that they don't have the same wow factor as they had when they were introduced or to some non at all. it's maybe me but i think that for some it's the CSQ effect all over again, we need to see an actual build with these and i think that if done well they'd grow on us a bit more. (but now i'm totally in loved in the 900D







especially after buying the C70 a month and a half ago







)


----------



## DutchChilles

I actually do not like the look of caselabs cases. I don't like the 'modular' look. And they are just to big & bulky imo.

If the 900D will be as good as they say it will be, then it will be one of the best cases. There are so many options for watercooling, aircooling, customization etc. For this reason i bought the Switch 810, a lot of options to.

I didn't like the 800D that much, because of the weird airflow and compartments, but the 900D looks like a winner to me. The price ($350ish) is also fair, caselabs with shipping is expensive, the TJ011 is expensive, cosmosII is the same. The stuff that the 900D offers for the price is just so much more.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DutchChilles*
> 
> I actually do not like the look of caselabs cases. I don't like the 'modular' look. And they are just to big & bulky imo.
> If the 900D will be as good as they say it will be, then it will be one of the best cases. There are so many options for watercooling, aircooling, customization etc. For this reason i bought the Switch 810, a lot of options to.
> I didn't like the 800D that much, because of the weird airflow and compartments, but the 900D looks like a winner to me. The price ($350ish) is also fair, caselabs with shipping is expensive, the TJ011 is expensive, cosmosII is the same. The stuff that the 900D offers for the price is just so much more.


I'm completely with ya on that! The 900d is the new boss.


----------



## Hokies83

Case Labs is king / Boss

Followed by Mountain mods..

Then it is just everybody else.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Case Labs is king / Boss
> Followed by Mountain mods..
> Then it is just everybody else.


Too bad danger den is out of business now. Their doublewide cases dominate hard for fitting tons of radiators in.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Case Labs is king / Boss
> Followed by Mountain mods..
> Then it is just everybody else.


I didn't believe this until after I bought one... now I can't believe I didn't buy one sooner.


----------



## Canis-X

I would love to try out a Case Labs case. They would have to sponsor me to get me into one though....LOL.







Some of their cases cost more than I paid for my phase change cooler.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Case Labs is king / Boss
> 
> Followed by Mountain mods..
> 
> Then it is just everybody else.


LittleDevil....FTW for half the price of Caselabs.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> LittleDevil....FTW for half the price of Caselabs.


http://www.ldcooling.com/

thats cheap? lol

http://www.caselabs-store.com/cases/

costs more than caselabs when you convert units.


----------



## TampaChaz

My first watercooling endeavor. I call her "Bluewater".


----------



## hammerforged

Heres Evga's new watercooled mITX case:







Source


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> LittleDevil....FTW for half the price of Caselabs.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ldcooling.com/
> 
> thats cheap? lol
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/cases/
> 
> costs more than caselabs when you convert units.
Click to expand...

Not in Europe,CL is double what you pay in the US


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Case Labs is king / Boss
> Followed by Mountain mods..
> Then it is just everybody else.


sums it up pretty well


----------



## OverClocker55

That's beast. Where can I get it?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hey everyone can someone help me out..
i recently started taking the heatsinks off of my GSkill
Sniper series RAM (to put my Koolance Ram - 33 waterblocks
on ..i have 4 sticks (2 sticks of ram per a pack) in total = 16 gigs. for my first 2 i got the heatsinks
off with no problem but my 3rd one ripped off some chips ruining it.
my last one i got the heatsinks off and the block on.
so i had to order more ram which i just recieved.
Now if i take one stick from the new ram i just got today would it
work fine with the other one stick from the pair that i ruined one of?
it's all the extactly same kind of ram just one of them will be coming
from a different (new) package.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey everyone can someone help me out..
> i recently started taking the heatsinks off of my GSkill
> Sniper series RAM (to put my Koolance Ram - 33 waterblocks
> on ..i have 4 sticks (2 sticks of ram per a pack) in total = 16 gigs. for my first 2 i got the heatsinks
> off with no problem but my 3rd one ripped off some chips ruining it.
> my last one i got the heatsinks off and the block on.
> so i had to order more ram which i just recieved.
> Now if i take one stick from the new ram i just got today would it
> work fine with the other one stick from the pair that i ruined one of?
> it's all the extactly same kind of ram just one of them will be coming
> from a different (new) package.


'

should work

ouch,

my sinks came off easy, you can try running it under a candle next time. not hot enough to melt the solder, but enough to melt the tape.

edit: don't put it in the flame lol, just in the heat.


----------



## DutchChilles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.ldcooling.com/
> thats cheap? lol
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/cases/
> costs more than caselabs when you convert units.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> LittleDevil....FTW for half the price of Caselabs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not in Europe,CL is double what you pay in the US


What i also don't like about these kind off cases, there is so much extra you need to pay for, like brackets and bays. That will add to the price even more. With something like the 900D (And almost all other cases) you get a complete, awesome case, with everything you need.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> '
> should work
> ouch,
> my sinks came off easy, you can try running it under a candle next time. not hot enough to melt the solder, but enough to melt the tape.
> edit: don't put it in the flame lol, just in the heat.


lol.. thanx.i'm hoping it works i already applied new thermal pad to my heatsinks when
putting in my Ram-33 so would be a pain to get off again.
yeah i looked it up before hand and all the forums said use a heat gun or something
but i tryed the first one for fun without putting it under anything and came off so easy
i though "hey why not go for it". second was cool then 3rd one put me back in my place lol.
4th one i turned my range on and held high above for a tiny bit then tryed ..came off easy after.
so i;m thinking i'll just use my range for this one also..


----------



## Stige

Just ordered those, should be able to build it in a week or so.

Can't wait to see how high the 2500K goes when it does 5GHz on air


----------



## LayerCakes

Could anyone be an amazing person and tell me what fitting corsair's used here to bridge between their 670's? Or provide me with a similar fitting I can use? I have the same blocks in the same spacing!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> Could anyone be an amazing person and tell me what fitting corsair's used here to bridge between their 670's? Or provide me with a similar fitting I can use? I have the same blocks in the same spacing!


Is that the 900D?!?!?!?!?!?

btw, i think those are EK fittings, though not 100% sure. Do you have a link to where you got this pic?


----------



## teamrushpntball

Corsair's site has a few, as well as their facebook page.

On the 900D note, was really on the fence about switching to it from my TJ07. Not so much anymore, Tj07 just looks so much nicer. Then add in all the custom ColdZero parts and it's a spectacular case.

Also, got my Ducky Shine 2 in today. Awesome keyboard.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could anyone be an amazing person and tell me what fitting corsair's used here to bridge between their 670's? Or provide me with a similar fitting I can use? I have the same blocks in the same spacing!


not sure what they are but it's "CorsairGeorge" rig.
find him on here and ask him








have a good one.


----------



## LiquidHaus

yeah except corsair george didn't build it himself, had someone else to build it for him. no fun imo. i was hoping to finish my new rig before CES, that way maybe EVGA would have put it on display. oh well.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> not sure what they are but it's "CorsairGeorge" rig.
> find him on here and ask him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have a good one.


No need to worry now, just shelled out £20 for EK's parallel link bridge. What crooks! Putting strange connectors on their waterblocks so pretty much only their expensive bridge will fit!

Thanks anyway though!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> Could anyone be an amazing person and tell me what fitting corsair's used here to bridge between their 670's? Or provide me with a similar fitting I can use? I have the same blocks in the same spacing!


Looks like two res one pump? Anyone else seeing that and confused?


----------



## Bart

Look at the chrome pump back. You can barely see the outline of pump #2. I think!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Look at the chrome pump back. You can barely see the outline of pump #2. I think!


this.

there are indeed 2 pumps.


----------



## freitz

Yeah just needed to blow it up thanks.


----------



## Hokies83

Case labs should do a 100$ off OCN Mega sell...

Im waiting to get a TH10 with the 120mm roof Jim is working on it i have another week to wait....

till then....




I yanked it all out of a Cosmos 2 im trying to sell.. and can not even get 145$ for it lol...


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Looks like two res one pump? Anyone else seeing that and confused?


T fitting.


----------



## MiniMaster

I'd like in on the club





Really really happy with my build!


----------



## LayerCakes

@MiniMaster, nice build! But I think its time for a cable tidy and get those 680's plumbed in!

Also, from looking at the first pic, I think you might have some power issues


----------



## OverClocker55

That is looking sick


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I yanked it all out of a Cosmos 2 im trying to sell.. and can not even get 145$ for it lol...


If you was nearer to me, I'd totally have that off you.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*


Well done!


----------



## MiniMaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> @MiniMaster, nice build! But I think its time for a cable tidy and get those 680's plumbed in!
> Also, from looking at the first pic, I think you might have some power issues


Thanks







. It is all tidied up. Everything was unplugged. was about to leak test the system after doing that mid annual cleaning. Had my system for a good 6 months now. Just stuck that light there and some new fans.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiniMaster*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It is all tidied up. Everything was unplugged. was about to leak test the system after doing that mid annual cleaning. Had my system for a good 6 months now. Just stuck that light there and some new fans.


Nice! Any plans for the 680's?


----------



## MiniMaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Nice! Any plans for the 680's?


I think ill just stick with the air (For now) and look into putting them underwater later on. I like the hassle free piece of mind atm.
I believe they call it laziness haha


----------



## phillyd

Has anyone seen any NZXT Kraken X40 benchmarks/temp tests? I wanna be sure it is up to par before I buy one.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Has anyone seen any NZXT Kraken X40 benchmarks/temp tests? I wanna be sure it is up to par before I buy one.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1332475/various-nzxt-kraken-x40-x60-water-cooler-reviews


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Has anyone seen any NZXT Kraken X40 benchmarks/temp tests? I wanna be sure it is up to par before I buy one.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1332475/various-nzxt-kraken-x40-x60-water-cooler-reviews
Click to expand...

thanks! +1


----------



## famous1994

wrong thread- please delete.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that the 900D?!?!?!?!?!?
> btw, i think those are EK fittings, though not 100% sure. Do you have a link to where you got this pic?


Wow Can't believe that he avoided your Questions... I believe a poster took it from FB & to posted here. thats where you can find under Corsair >*Link*


----------



## ginger_nuts

You Americans and Europeans should consider yourselves lucky.

In Australia Little Devil Cases start at about $630+ delivery, Case Labs are near the same even XSPC case are above $500 + delivery.

The Switch 810 and Bitfenix's XL Shinobi are both under the $200 mark. This is why I am seriously considering designing and build my own water cooling case.


----------



## george_orm

Australians get ripped at every corner. At least we get free health care, lol, but we have to rely on winning the lotto to get a decent rig,


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> You Americans and Europeans should consider yourselves lucky.
> In Australia Little Devil Cases start at about $630+ delivery, Case Labs are near the same even XSPC case are above $500 + delivery.
> The Switch 810 and Bitfenix's XL Shinobi are both under the $200 mark. This is why I am seriously considering designing and build my own water cooling case.


Use two 810's in a stretch build and you'd get some serious rad space without breaking the bank









Darlene


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Use two 810's in a stretch build and you'd get some serious rad space without breaking the bank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Showoff


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> You Americans and Europeans should consider yourselves lucky.
> In Australia Little Devil Cases start at about $630+ delivery, Case Labs are near the same even XSPC case are above $500 + delivery.
> The Switch 810 and Bitfenix's XL Shinobi are both under the $200 mark. This is why I am seriously considering designing and build my own water cooling case.
> 
> 
> 
> Use two 810's in a stretch build and you'd get some serious*ly wasted* rad space without breaking the bank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Fixed.
There comes a time when wasting money on poorly performing rads and then spending more on massive overkill is funny.


----------



## DutchChilles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that the 900D?!?!?!?!?!?
> btw, i think those are EK fittings, though not 100% sure. Do you have a link to where you got this pic?


I'm sorry, quoted the wrong person


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> Australians get ripped at every corner. At least we get free health care, lol, but we have to rely on winning the lotto to get a decent rig,


I feel your pain, lived there for almost 8 years and didnt event build a PC because of the price, once I got back to my country I went wild







(Indonesia FTW)
but we are very very limited with the WC components options, have to use backdoor on custom when buying stuff online else the tax is just OMG***BBQPWNT

Im starting to regret doing a major update on my 810 after seeing the corsair 900D








even ordered the 810 pedestal from dwood last week


----------



## DutchChilles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> Could anyone be an amazing person and tell me what fitting corsair's used here to bridge between their 670's? Or provide me with a similar fitting I can use? I have the same blocks in the same spacing!


I think they are Bitspower fittings. It looks like they used a 90degree adapter, some sort of extension or connector (male-to-male) and another 90degree adapter to link the GPU's together. I'm not 100% sure, it's kinda hard to see.
I don't think it's multilink with crystal link, you would see the red coolant if it was.

EDIT: The longer i look at it, the weirder it becomes for me. The things that are screwed in the 90degree adapters do look like multilink adapters, or a small male-to-male extension. The thing that weirds me out is the fact that the center piece has a smaller diameter. It could be crystal link, but then you should see the bright red coolant (Unless the lighting in the picture is really weird)

EDIT 2: After some digging i came across these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=35668 & http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=35775.
I totally forgot about these, because i have not seen them used in quiet a while. I do strongly believe these are the pieces you are looking for


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DutchChilles*
> 
> I think they are Bitspower fittings. It looks like they used a 90degree adapter, some sort of extension or connector (male-to-male) and another 90degree adapter to link the GPU's together. I'm not 100% sure, it's kinda hard to see.
> I don't think it's multilink with crystal link, you would see the red coolant if it was.
> EDIT: The longer i look at it, the weirder it becomes for me. The things that are screwed in the 90degree adapters do look like multilink adapters, or a small male-to-male extension. The thing that weirds me out is the fact that the center piece has a smaller diameter. It could be crystal link, but then you should see the bright red coolant (Unless the lighting in the picture is really weird)
> EDIT 2: After some digging i came across these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=35668 & http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=35775.
> I totally forgot about these, because i have not seen them used in quiet a while. I do strongly believe these are the pieces you are looking for


The connector looks like its the same diameter though?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Use two 810's in a stretch build and you'd get some serious rad space without breaking the bank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Showoff
Click to expand...


----------



## DutchChilles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DutchChilles*
> 
> I think they are Bitspower fittings. It looks like they used a 90degree adapter, some sort of extension or connector (male-to-male) and another 90degree adapter to link the GPU's together. I'm not 100% sure, it's kinda hard to see.
> I don't think it's multilink with crystal link, you would see the red coolant if it was.
> EDIT: The longer i look at it, the weirder it becomes for me. The things that are screwed in the 90degree adapters do look like multilink adapters, or a small male-to-male extension. The thing that weirds me out is the fact that the center piece has a smaller diameter. It could be crystal link, but then you should see the bright red coolant (Unless the lighting in the picture is really weird)
> EDIT 2: After some digging i came across these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=35668 & http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=35775.
> I totally forgot about these, because i have not seen them used in quiet a while. I do strongly believe these are the pieces you are looking for


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> The connector looks like its the same diameter though?


Nope, it's smaller. I'm very sure the pieces i linked form performance PC are the pieces you are looking for.


----------



## LayerCakes

Decided just to get EK's connector instead.


----------



## NewHighScore

Is it common for 670 waterblocks to use these mounting holes instead of the common ones for stock heatsinks? I ordered some backplates and I am not sure if I noobed or if dwood noobed here but the backplate I ordered uses the other mounting holes.









I just want my build to be finished *kicking and flailing rolling on the floor like a 4 year old having a tantrum* haha




TOTAL BUMSKIES BRO!!!


----------



## protzman

... no way







i would be pissed!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ... no way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i would be pissed!


Yeah it's a bummer but what are you gonna do? when u live in a shoe.

my guess is this was my noobery but I hope it is dwoods noobery so I don't have to shell out more moneys.


----------



## protzman

well shouldnt you have just been like ok i have these grapics cards you make me backplates for them? And it's his "job" to make it work? And if he f'd em up why would it be ur noobery?
It just sucks cause i know youve been waiting for months!


----------



## NewHighScore

Well not exactly. I mean if 95% or more of waterblocks use the standard mounting I gotta say it's not his job to make sure I am using those mounting holes. I'd think it's pretty safe to assume that the holes are where he put them. It's my job to provide him with the specifics for my personal setup which could be unique to the common ones right?

but ya it is a bummer since I been waiting so long.

That's just the way she goes. (points if u know this ref)


----------



## protzman

damn well then that just freakin stinks! worst case could you just drill some new holes?


----------



## NewHighScore

I could but that would kill the look. I also don't have a drill press or anything like that and would have to do it by hand which would likely result in a scratched surface. Not only that the holes would be right thru the yellow strips .

I just want to know if anyone can provide input whether those mounting holes are common or not. I mean if all waterblocks but mine use his mounting holes I am clearly at fault, but if it is the other way around I would like to ask him to fix the problem.


----------



## LayerCakes

My EK block used those mounting holes too! But I got my back plate to fit by using longer bolts that go all the way through.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> My EK block used those mounting holes too! But I got my back plate to fit by using longer bolts that go all the way through.


I don't think you understand. There are no holes in the waterblock underneath the holes in the backplate. Longer screws wouldn't fix the problem. The backplate uses the 6cm spaced holes (which the stock cooler also uses). The waterblock uses 5cm spaced holes.


----------



## LayerCakes

Oh. My back plate uses both 5 and 6 cm spaced holes.


----------



## hatrix216

Here's my rig. Ghetto hole I cut in the top of my PC so I had an exhaust for my radiator









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## OverClocker55

Now cover it up with some grill


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Here's my rig. Ghetto hole I cut in the top of my PC so I had an exhaust for my radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Purchase an aftermarket grill cover to hide the rough cut and you should be golden....only you and anyone that viewed these photos would know..lol


----------



## hatrix216

lol I was planning on doing that. Where could I find one cheap ?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> lol I was planning on doing that. Where could I find one cheap ?


Aquatuning if you are anywhere pretty much.

FrozenCPU, Performance-PC's for USA

Dazmode maybe for Canada. Not 100% sure on that though.

It would definitely clean it up and make it look much nicer.


----------



## wermad

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457_362

bling:



budget:


----------



## hatrix216

Damnnnn on that first one lol. $74 dollars. That's steep.

$20 dollar one looks great lol. I'll get that one in a little bit since I just had a $520 fine to pay.... little short on chash


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Damnnnn on that first one lol. $74 dollars. That's steep.
> $20 dollar one looks great lol. I'll get that one in a little bit since I just had a $520 fine to pay.... little short on chash


$160:



edit:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457_362_364

Phobya makes some good ones too at a great price









.


----------



## hatrix216

That thing looks super sexy. If i was rich sure why the hell not lol.

Think I'll go with this one instead when I get the cash:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_362_406&products_id=33156


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Just making sure before I go ahead with the order.. is this Heatkiller block compatible with this EVGA 670?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmurfsRCool*
> 
> Just making sure before I go ahead with the order.. is this Heatkiller block compatible with this EVGA 670?


Check your card with cooling configurator.com.
It will tell you if its 670 ref spec


----------



## Hokies83

Those grills ur showing him cost more then his case..

he should just snag some of this for 5$ and call it a day..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200656775592?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Those grills ur showing him cost more then his case..
> he should just snag some of this for 5$ and call it a day..
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/200656775592?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


lol I'm ok with buying the $30 dollar grill I linked to. It'll look nicer than just putting rubber vinyl over the edges.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Those grills ur showing him cost more then his case..
> he should just snag some of this for 5$ and call it a day..
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/200656775592?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


I can't recall the number of times when there's a blingy and expensive component in a budget build. I guess some ppl like it that way


----------



## teamrushpntball

Uh pretty sure my loop is worth more than my CPU, MOBO and GPU. Or if it's not it's damn close.









Edit -> Forgot about the ~$500 USD I've bought in ColdZero parts to make my TJ07 look awesome.

Guess I really should upgrade my CPU, MOBO and add a 2nd GPU.


----------



## wermad

I have no beef with budget builds but I totally understand if you want to add an expensive item to the build. Your money and your build







. The MNPCTech grills are a nice and blingy touch to any build imho.

What I see a lot is the tricked out D5 with kits costing more then the pump itself. The rest of the loop is plain-jane but there's nothing wrong with that.


----------



## Hokies83

I have the same Mid tower sitting in my closet it is not a bad mid tower really has a fold out MB tray and all.

Even has a side window which even a 350$ cosmos 2 lacks.. if u paint the inside of it black it really is a nice case imo.

Cut some air vent holes in bottom for psu then mount psu in the bottom.. or cut some of those un needed HDD bays and mount psu side ways...

Then cut and fit a 480 rad up top and BAM !

But for me i wanted one case to rule them all.. So im going Case labs...

Last month ive sold off all my extra stuff which added up to 600$ lol so now im just waiting for the 120mm Top to be done for the TH10 so i can order XD


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DutchChilles*
> 
> Linus just did a vid on the 900D at CES. It looks awesome!
> Only problem is, it's not for sale yet, and personal problem is, i just bought a Switch 810.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0Q7xF07_eg


Haha, I just did the same. Corsair has awesome timing...lol.


----------



## tecuarenta

Hope your trained eyes will see more details to improve.
Comments are wellcome


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Haha, I just did the same. Corsair has awesome timing...lol.


You aren't kidding! I bought an 800D recently, a display model I got at a paltry 5% discount. 2 weeks later, it was on sale for $100 off (DOH!), and 1 week after that, I started seeing 900D pics floating around. Double DOH!


----------



## PinzaC55

Hi everybody, I have gathered the components for my first watercooling build (except for my current Corsair H100) and I have a noobish question. I intend to lay it out as below with a Koolance T Connector shown in yellow. Can I use this to fill the loop as shown and will the air be forced round sufficiently to leave the system? I am using 3/8 ID 1/2 OD tubing and a Phobya DC12 220 pump. If this isn't good is there any better way to do it?


----------



## LayerCakes

Where's the pump going?


----------



## LayerCakes

Wait, I see it.

Yes, it will work but it will be MUCH easier to just fill it from the res.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I have the same Mid tower sitting in my closet it is not a bad mid tower really has a fold out MB tray and all.
> Even has a side window which even a 350$ cosmos 2 lacks.. if u paint the inside of it black it really is a nice case imo.
> Cut some air vent holes in bottom for psu then mount psu in the bottom.. or cut some of those un needed HDD bays and mount psu side ways...
> Then cut and fit a 480 rad up top and BAM !
> *But for me i wanted one case to rule them all.. So im going Case labs...
> Last month ive sold off all my extra stuff which added up to 600$ lol so now im just waiting for the 120mm Top to be done for the TH10 so i can order *XD[/B]


Yes you have mentioned that a couple times.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Yes you have mentioned that a couple times.


Yeah waiting on the lid kinda sucks i want to get it ordered and get it here XD


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah waiting on the lid kinda sucks i want to get it ordered and get it here XD


ya waiting sucks especially when you are so excited. I was very happy going from the Cosmos 2 to the STH10. The rad space is amazing.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Where's the pump going?


Top of res: Fit a Y-fitting
Fit 2 tubes, one to top and one from the rad
Skip the 90-degree(?) fitting by the PSU for less fittings/resistance that the 90-degree fittings cause
Skip the T connector
If you want to, you can use Koolance Quick Disconnects(QDC) on the straight line from res to pump for easy draining, remember to buy another male/female if you do this, to "open" the QDC


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Where's the pump going?


Well I did copy it from yours in your build log!









OK this will sound dense but how would I fill it from the Res given my setup? The tube from the radiator goes to the top of the res.The only other way I could do it is to use an L connector at the bottom front of the res to the the tube to the radiator and I think that would look a bit unsightly.
Quote:


> Top of res: Fit a Y-fitting
> Fit 2 tubes, one to top and one from the rad
> Skip the 90-degree(?) fitting by the PSU for less fittings/resistance that the 90-degree fittings cause
> Skip the T connector
> If you want to, you can use Koolance Quick Disconnects(QDC) on the straight line from res to pump for easy draining, remember to buy another male/female if you do this, to "open" the QDC


I get what you are saying but the thing with the pump is that I wanted to make the installation as low impact as possible plus I already had the L joints and the Koolance T Connector / Drain Valve http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Koolance-4-way-G14Inch-Drain-Valve-Brass_1697.html will be arriving tomorrow. The fitting on top of the pump is an ordinary compression fitting.


----------



## OverClocker55

Buying a SwiftTech 240 rad right now!. Worst comes to worst it doesn't fit in my case and I have to mount the fans on top


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Well I did copy it from yours in your build log!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK this will sound dense but how would I fill it from the Res given my setup? The tube from the radiator goes to the top of the res.The only other way I could do it is to use an L connector at the bottom front of the res to the the tube to the radiator and I think that would look a bit unsightly.
> I get what you are saying but the thing with the pump is that I wanted to make the installation as low impact as possible plus I already had the L joints and the Koolance T Connector / Drain Valve http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Koolance-4-way-G14Inch-Drain-Valve-Brass_1697.html will be arriving tomorrow. The fitting on top of the pump is an ordinary compression fitting.


I think the res may be upsidown? I have three ports on the top of mine!


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I think the res may be upsidown? I have three ports on the top of mine!


Maybe yours is upside down.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Maybe yours is upside down.


Well I know its not because I've got the anti splash tube coming down from the top like it's meant too..


----------



## PinzaC55

Its not upside down. You had me worried there!


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Its not upside down. You had me worried there!


Haha! Sorry! Maybe have a Y fitting on the top of the res to fill it then?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Just a few weeks late on the carbon monsoons, but the first pictures didn't get much of a response either. I think many are not impressed - I wasn't. I love my original monsoon free centers - but the carbon ones - not so much.


I think the opposite. I don't like the originals by I kind of like the carbon fiber ones. If they ever come in 3/8" ID 5/8" OD I'll likely try them out.


----------



## PinzaC55

I've had a look for "phobya balancer" on Google Images and it seems many people have the tube from the radiator fitted to the front base of the PB by an L connector leaving the top hole free to use as a fillport. Looks like I am in for more expense.









BTW I looked for Y Fitting and all that was available was cheap plastic things without threads.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I've had a look for "phobya balancer" on Google Images and it seems many people have the tube from the radiator fitted to the front base of the PB by an L connector leaving the top hole free to use as a fillport. Looks like I am in for more expense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I looked for Y Fitting and all that was available was cheap plastic things without threads.


Well water cooling certainly isn't cheap. Its all the little bits that add up!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Hi everybody, I have gathered the components for my first watercooling build (except for my current Corsair H100) and I have a noobish question. I intend to lay it out as below with a Koolance T Connector shown in yellow. Can I use this to fill the loop as shown and will the air be forced round sufficiently to leave the system? I am using 3/8 ID 1/2 OD tubing and a Phobya DC12 220 pump. If this isn't good is there any better way to do it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats not really an ideal setup, with the setup like in the picture, your rez wont capture the air in your loop, you should have both the in and out tubing from your rez toward the bottom so your rez can capture any air from your loop, also use the top of the rad for a fill port


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I've had a look for "phobya balancer" on Google Images and it seems many people have the tube from the radiator fitted to the front base of the PB by an L connector leaving the top hole free to use as a fillport. Looks like I am in for more expense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I looked for Y Fitting and all that was available was cheap plastic things without threads.


If you live in the US, then *this* might help you.









Jeffinslaw


----------



## mironccr345




----------



## kyismaster

im usually not one to scout like this but god damn this is sexy










src: http://mutantlegion.deviantart.com/art/Red-Harbinger-Brochure-347690858


----------



## OverClocker55

That is amazing


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Hope your trained eyes will see more details to improve.
> Comments are wellcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice clean build, looks good. I am assuming you have "pull" fans on top of rad with one "push/pull" on the end because there wasn't room for the other two?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> im usually not one to scout like this but god damn this is sexy
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> src: http://mutantlegion.deviantart.com/art/Red-Harbinger-Brochure-347690858


That is nice...


----------



## OverClocker55

Has anyone ever used these?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17042/ex-tub-1407/Phobya_G14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Compact_-_Vintage_Matte_Black_62449.html?tl=g30c409s1203#blank


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Has anyone ever used these?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17042/ex-tub-1407/Phobya_G14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Compact_-_Vintage_Matte_Black_62449.html?tl=g30c409s1203#blank


I don't see anytihng wrong with them.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Has anyone ever used these?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17042/ex-tub-1407/Phobya_G14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Compact_-_Vintage_Matte_Black_62449.html?tl=g30c409s1203#blank
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see anytihng wrong with them.
Click to expand...

I think there boring now. Will these be good?
BTW what color, white to match the tubing or gold to have class
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15815/ex-tub-1273/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_12ID_x_34OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_White_FCC-1234-6P-WH.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15821/ex-tub-1267/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_12ID_x_34OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Gold_FCC-1234-6P-GO.html

Also bought that 240 rad that you sent the link too xD

BTW the 7/16 x 5/8 ones but same color xD


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> im usually not one to scout like this but god damn this is sexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> src: http://mutantlegion.deviantart.com/art/Red-Harbinger-Brochure-347690858


not sure if youve seen this or not....or for anyone that hasnt. dude is a legend.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1711303


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> not sure if youve seen this or not....or for anyone that hasnt. dude is a legend.
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1711303


http://www.overclock.net/t/1231207/pg-red-harbinger-revealed/0_20

Pretty sweet desk


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Check your card with cooling configurator.com.
> It will tell you if its 670 ref spec


Thanks for that link B, my card is indeed reference design which means that block is compatible!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1231207/pg-red-harbinger-revealed/0_20
> 
> Pretty sweet desk


The stand alone desk without any modifications to the basic colors is currently *priced at $1984 to be exact*. However that amount will change on how much we order from the manufacturer. At this moment we're fully busy with investors / kKickstarter to get the price down. So basically the price can only go down.

2k ouch...

I would have changed plans and went with that desk instead of the case labs if it was more around the 1k mark.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> If you live in the US, then *this* might help you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks for that but I live in a 3rd world country called the UK where we don't have as much choice as the US. Its looking like - connections to bottom of res then fillport to the top.

Here is the page of Phobya Balancer images https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Phobya+Balancer&hl=en&tbo=u&rlz=1C1KMZB_enGB511GB511&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=3njuUM7_NZO00QXM0YDIAw&ved=0CDsQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=955

Edit* Looking through the images one of them IS mounted upside down!


----------



## Drake.L

I'm happy to say that I just got my first loop all set up! Took me the entire day to work on it but I enjoyed MOST of it. I really messed up where I stripped a screw on my video card and decided to drill it out. I BROKE the first drill bit which just barely touched the PCB which felt like a mini heart attack. I then had troubles popping the rivets for my hard drive cage, but i'm satisfied with it all!



I used a dual bay res & d5 pump by XSPC, XSPC Raystorm waterblock, and the XSPC Razor GTX 680 block for my 670 FTW+.
For the radiators, I used an 80mm thick 240 in the front, and a 45mm thick 120 in the rear, both using push pull.

Hottest core for my CPU @ stock is 43C from 5 minute of Prime95, and my GPU maxes at 42C from 5 minutes of Furmark.
Does anyone know how these temps are for my setup? I had to remount the CPU block several times before getting it right, and I also forgot a giant thermal pad for 12 tiny vrms on the vid card!









Would you recommend me draining the loop and re-doing the tubing for the video card just for the sake of easiness, or should I attempt to put the thermal pad on while the block is still connected to the loop?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> If you live in the US, then *this* might help you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that but I live in a 3rd world country called the UK where we don't have as much choice as the US. Its looking like - connections to bottom of res then fillport to the top.
> 
> Here is the page of Phobya Balancer images https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Phobya+Balancer&hl=en&tbo=u&rlz=1C1KMZB_enGB511GB511&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=3njuUM7_NZO00QXM0YDIAw&ved=0CDsQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=955
> 
> Edit* Looking through the images one of them IS mounted upside down!
Click to expand...

There is no right way up for a res,you set it up any way that the ports are in the best position for use.

The tube is for lowering the inlet to below the waterline if you are using a top return feed or lifting the return feed away from the pump inlet if you have all the inlet/outlets on one end of the res.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Hey guys, I have a question again!

How would someone go about filling a reservoir if it is laying horizontally?

EDIT: Or would you fill it up first, screw in the stop, then place it in the clips laying down? Wait, I think I just answered my own question...

Does anyone have experience with this?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question again!
> 
> How would someone go about filling a reservoir if it is laying horizontally?
> 
> EDIT: Or would you fill it up first, screw in the stop, then place it in the clips laying down? Wait, I think I just answered my own question...
> 
> Does anyone have experience with this?


I have had many res on their side...





I tend to tilt the case so the fillport is on top then fill...remembering to plug the fillport when you lay it down


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> I'm happy to say that I just got my first loop all set up! Took me the entire day to work on it but I enjoyed MOST of it. I really messed up where I stripped a screw on my video card and decided to drill it out. I BROKE the first drill bit which just barely touched the PCB which felt like a mini heart attack. I then had troubles popping the rivets for my hard drive cage, but i'm satisfied with it all!
> 
> 
> 
> I used a dual bay res & d5 pump by XSPC, XSPC Raystorm waterblock, and the XSPC Razor GTX 680 block for my 670 FTW+.
> For the radiators, I used an 80mm thick 240 in the front, and a 45mm thick 120 in the rear, both using push pull.
> 
> Hottest core for my CPU @ stock is 43C from 5 minute of Prime95, and my GPU maxes at 42C from 5 minutes of Furmark.
> Does anyone know how these temps are for my setup? I had to remount the CPU block several times before getting it right, and I also forgot a giant thermal pad for 12 tiny vrms on the vid card!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you recommend me draining the loop and re-doing the tubing for the video card just for the sake of easiness, or should I attempt to put the thermal pad on while the block is still connected to the loop?


How wide is that rad? And how tall is it with the fillports included? Im trying to do the exact same thing as you with the monsta 240 but i have the top 3 5.25 bays filled.
Thanks!


----------



## PinzaC55

Another little question- my case is a HAF-X and has a plastic box for the cables. I am mounting the pump inside the box and I want it as close to the HDD cage as possible but the bottom of the case is solid here. The Phobya pump is supplied with a double sided adhesive pad - is this a good enough method to mount it? The pump also has a couple of plastic brackets but they would involve drilling holes in the case or mounting it on the ventilation grille which is less than ideal.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Another little question- my case is a HAF-X and has a plastic box for the cables. I am mounting the pump inside the box and I want it as close to the HDD cage as possible but the bottom of the case is solid here. The Phobya pump is supplied with a double sided adhesive pad - is this a good enough method to mount it? The pump also has a couple of plastic brackets but they would involve drilling holes in the case or mounting it on the ventilation grille which is less than ideal.


Take out the bottom fan mesh then bolt the pump on to the grill using a couple of washers.


----------



## PinzaC55

I know I could do that but since the outlet is on top the pump I would need to cut a hole in the top of the cable box since I like to have it covering as much as possible. As it is, if I mount it beside the HDD cage I may be able to get away without any cutting, plus the supplied brackets don't look very secure even if they are screwed down.Also I have noticed on photos that it looks as though some guys pumps aren't actually fixed down at all so I may be worrying about nothing, but I want to do it to the best of my ability.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Another little question- my case is a HAF-X and has a plastic box for the cables. I am mounting the pump inside the box and I want it as close to the HDD cage as possible but the bottom of the case is solid here. The Phobya pump is supplied with a double sided adhesive pad - is this a good enough method to mount it? The pump also has a couple of plastic brackets but they would involve drilling holes in the case or mounting it on the ventilation grille which is less than ideal.


That pad is more than enough.


----------



## LayerCakes

I changed the top on my pump to allow me an outlet on the side, which I put a 90° fitting on that pokes just out the side of the PSU cover. looks much neater!


----------



## PinzaC55

Yes but with the Phobya pump I don't have that option - inlet is horizontal, outlet vertical - I guess thats why you pay more for other pumps. Neatness is one thing I am obsessed with so the pump goes under the box where its appearance doesn't matter.One thing I am looking forward to is getting rid of the Corsair H100 with its untidy mess of cables and inconvenient Molex power supply cable.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That pad is more than enough.


Cheers B Negative! I was hoping someone would say that.


----------



## nyk20z3

Needs a dusting -


----------



## antonr90

Put my 690 underwater and also added a 240MM rad a couple days ago


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antonr90*
> 
> Put my 690 underwater and also added a 240MM rad a couple days ago


How come you don't have your rads in push/pull configuration, looks like there is more then enough room to do so!


----------



## antonr90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> How come you don't have your rads in push/pull configuration, looks like there is more then enough room to do so!


I could on the bottom 240, yeah and I'm planning it. But on the top 360, I can't fit one of the fans because of the compression fitting being in the way. So for the sake of aesthetics I'm forfeiting the minor benefit of push/pull on the 360.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> How come you don't have your rads in push/pull configuration, looks like there is more then enough room to do so!


From what Ive seen there is a minimal difference in PNP and it just seems like a waste of money,more load on your fan controller,more cables to deal with for a few C difference if that.

Ive noticed a growing obsession with it and its weird when its not needed lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> From what Ive seen there is a minimal difference in PNP and it just seems like a waste of money,more load on your fan controller,more cables to deal with for a few C difference if that.
> 
> Ive noticed a growing obsession with it and its weird when its not needed lol


I was gonna comment on this but I didn't want to the the first in front of the firing-squad























Anyways, I was told it makes little difference if you can pair the right fan(s) to the proper rad. I've heard anywhere from 5-2% better performance at *most*. I think Martin explored this idea (push/pull vs push vs pull) in a review of his.

I'm currently running one set of fans and I'm very happy with my temps. R4s are not too expensive but when I need 12 more to run push/pull on my rads, it can get pricey


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> From what Ive seen there is a minimal difference in PNP and it just seems like a waste of money,more load on your fan controller,more cables to deal with for a few C difference if that.
> 
> Ive noticed a growing obsession with it and its weird when its not needed lol


Up till 2 days ago I had 4 fans in PNP on my Corsair H100. I pulled 2 of them to use in my new proper watercooled build and the CPU temps were exactly the same with 2 fans as with 4, though a lot quieter.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> From what Ive seen there is a minimal difference in PNP and it just seems like a waste of money,more load on your fan controller,more cables to deal with for a few C difference if that.
> 
> Ive noticed a growing obsession with it and its weird when its not needed lol


It would probably be really helpful on monsta rads and high FPI rads.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antonr90*
> 
> Put my 690 underwater and also added a 240MM rad a couple days ago
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks great. love the red glow


----------



## PinzaC55

Oh my god.........


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> It would probably be really helpful on monsta rads and high FPI rads.


I can test this theory







I'm hoping to upgrade soon and I can test the difference between push vs pull vs push/pull on my Monsta rads.


----------



## animal0307

This is all for now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Push/Pull does have performance benefits for GTX style rads but as Wermad quite rightly says,the gain with low FPI rads is not worth it.
Its not something I subscribe to....a high FPI rad would be paired with 38mm fans if I was designing the loop.

I should imagine those Monstas would benefit purely due to the thickness of those rads Werm.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> This is all for now.


Moar









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Push/Pull does have performance benefits for GTX style rads but as Wermad quite rightly says,the gain with low FPI rads is not worth it.
> Its not something I subscribe to....a high FPI rad would be paired with 38mm fans if I was designing the loop.
> 
> I should imagine those Monstas would benefit purely due to the thickness of those rads Werm.


This has me thinking though....







. I should think the noise is not worth the extra fraction or small decrease (let alone the extra cost/performance) in temps.

I did have fun testing cpu>gpu vs gpu>cpu orders. I'll try this theory on the monstas


----------



## davwman

Progress. Tons of work left to do still. Need to re-rivet front panel, find a shallow depth blu ray drive, finish cleaning up PSU cables an on and on. Also will be adding another rad to the 140 gt stealth CPU loop.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Moar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has me thinking though....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I should think the noise is not worth the extra fraction or small decrease (let alone the extra cost/performance) in temps.
> 
> I did have fun testing cpu>gpu vs gpu>cpu orders. I'll try this theory on the monstas


Well push/pull is basically doubling (not exactly) the static pressure of the fans, so anything really thick (monsta) or really dense (high fpi) would benefit much more than a slimmer, lower fpi rad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Well push/pull is basically doubling (not exactly) the static pressure of the fans, so anything really thick (monsta) or really dense (high fpi) would benefit much more than a slimmer, lower fpi rad.


I'm switching to 480s hopefully in a few weeks. I can test this when I make the change. Or I can work something with my current setup in the next few days. My rig is partially disassembled as I'm waiting on an rma.


----------



## NomNomNom

Do you know if a 240mm monsta will fit in 5.25 bays?


----------



## davwman

Updates. Still waiting on block and mcp350 as well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Do you know if a 240mm monsta will fit in 5.25 bays?


I stuffed a Monsta 360 in the drive bays. 120mm rads will fit in all 5.25" bays.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I stuffed a Monsta 360 in the drive bays. 120mm rads will fit in all 5.25" bays.


Is there still lots of clearance in the bay widthwise after the rad being placed in?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm switching to 480s hopefully in a few weeks. I can test this when I make the change. Or I can work something with my current setup in the next few days. My rig is partially disassembled as I'm waiting on an rma.


How much with the Mountain mods case? ive built afew with there Java build i can not see any that support 480 rads?

So there gonna do that custom for you? what is the price on that? My Case labs is coming to 640$ before shipping...


----------



## Drake.L

Hey, It's quite hard to get a measurement since the case is pretty small. But a rough estimation for the height including the ports would be 10.5 inch. as for the width with push pull (25mm fans each) it comes out to 5.25inch wide. Hope it helps.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Is there still lots of clearance in the bay widthwise after the rad being placed in?


Yes







. Drive bay widths, even those with extra rails, are ~130-140mm wide. 140mm rads are more challenging to get in the drive bays.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> How much with the Mountain mods case? ive built afew with there Java build i can not see any that support 480 rads?
> 
> So there gonna do that custom for you? what is the price on that? My Case labs is coming to 640$ before shipping...


I bought this off a member who had MM build him this custom case. I think he said in excess of $700 (before adding any extras I think).. It was finished in a non-standard MM color and overall, the case is larger then the Ext. Ascension model.


----------



## Unhooked

My NZXT


----------



## HPE1000

hmm, maybe new water color and different ram and it would look awesome.

I am picky about colors not matching.


----------



## vaporizer

just got a package today. can't wait for the weekend. work will feel long tomorrow. sorry for the bad phone pics.

someone doesn't want me to open the box


contents(there was some cables too, but not as exciting as these are)


GPU block and backplate. not a fan of the crop circles, but there they are.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







new res to replace my split dual bay


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







last but not least, my new baby. i had to get one before wermad bought them all.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I might have to RMA this guy. he doesn't fit with the rest of the products.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Rolandooo

Leak testing


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Drive bay widths, even those with extra rails, are ~130-140mm wide. 140mm rads are more challenging to get in the drive bays.
> I bought this off a member who had MM build him this custom case. I think he said in excess of $700 (before adding any extras I think).. It was finished in a non-standard MM color and overall, the case is larger then the Ext. Ascension model.


Ah u get a good deal on it? Shipping huge cases cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Been since if it cam up around 550$ lol i do like the MM box look..


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> From what Ive seen there is a minimal difference in PNP and it just seems like a waste of money,more load on your fan controller,more cables to deal with for a few C difference if that.
> 
> Ive noticed a growing obsession with it and its weird when its not needed lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Up till 2 days ago I had 4 fans in PNP on my Corsair H100. I pulled 2 of them to use in my new proper watercooled build and the CPU temps were exactly the same with 2 fans as with 4, though a lot quieter.


I agree with you both. I've done 3 different loops in my rig, all with Corsair SP fans. I've tested combinations of low and high FPI rads at various fan speeds. I averaged better overall results in noise and performance in pull than push or push/pull. In some cases, push/pull made it worse. All my stress tests were done in my 500R with the panel closed. Everyone will net different results and it comes down to personal preference for sacrificing noise to performance, or vice versa. Martin's test isn't the end all for this debate.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> just got a package today. can't wait for the weekend. work will feel long tomorrow. sorry for the bad phone pics.
> 
> someone doesn't want me to open the box
> 
> 
> contents(there was some cables too, but not as exciting as these are)
> 
> 
> GPU block and backplate. not a fan of the crop circles, but there they are.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> new res to replace my split dual bay
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> last but not least, my new baby. i had to get one before wermad bought them all.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might have to RMA this guy. he doesn't fit with the rest of the products.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beat me to a Monsta 480







. Guard cat? Noyce








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unhooked*
> 
> My NZXT


Sweet looking build mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Ah u get a good deal on it? Shipping huge cases cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
> 
> Been since if it cam up around 550$ lol i do like the MM box look..


I bought a brand new Ext. Ascension in the past I wouldn't want to spend that kind of money again. I did get a sweet deal








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> I agree with you both. I've done 3 different loops in my rig, all with Corsair SP fans. I've tested combinations of low and high FPI rads at various fan speeds. I averaged better overall results in noise and performance in pull than push or push/pull. In some cases, push/pull made it worse. All my stress tests were done in my 500R with the panel closed. Everyone will net different results and it comes down to personal preference for sacrificing noise to performance, or vice versa. Martin's test isn't the end all for this debate.


I'm leaning on it wouldn't make much different imho. I'm sure if the rad is working harder due to many components (ie heat), then I can say it may help somewhat.


----------



## SmurfsRCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> last but not least, my new baby. i had to get one before wermad bought them all.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Haha.. priceless!

A little more on topic:


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> just got a package today. can't wait for the weekend. work will feel long tomorrow. sorry for the bad phone pics.
> 
> contents(there was some cables too, but not as exciting as these are)
> 
> 
> GPU block and backplate. not a fan of the crop circles, but there they are.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I hope to have 4 of those babys coming my way really soon.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Have 2 enroute myself. Except no gpu's for them yet.


----------



## Tarnix

I think I just came at this:

Looks like I might have a decent reason to go with a full system loop this year (including universal GPU blocks, of course. Blargh @ non-reference cards)


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I think I just came at this:
> 
> Looks like I might have a decent reason to go with a full system loop this year (including universal GPU blocks, of course. Blargh @ non-reference cards)


Do what I did, sell the card and get a new one with a reference design! I sold two 560 ti tf2 for the 670ftw+ 4gb


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Do what I did, sell the card and get a new one with a reference design! I sold two 560 ti tf2 for the 670ftw+ 4gb


While this is recommendable for most people, I'm a folder too. I like my GTX260 and GTX560 as folding cards. I'm using a 660 as a main.
Edit: Buying two/three universal blocks and modding the thing out of the stock cooler is cheaper than digging/buying a full water block for a reference design (I tend to trust custom PCB's more lately, especially since the whole "crippled VRM" story) every time I change my GPU (which is about every generation or two)

Edit2: On the side note, my PC doesn't progress much... I should get my new RAM sticks about today or tomorrow (Crucial Ballistix Tactical 1866MHz 16GB, 2 kits of 2x4=8). Nothing very pic-worthy. At least now my RAM matches my non-sleeved PCI-E power connectors.









After that. the next component upgrade will most likely be a "replace-all-the-fans with [insert not-discontinued-fan-name-here-because-scyte-usa-died-probably-noctua]" thing ._. Once I found a new apartment, probably will look for a loop.


----------



## Stevesack

Here it is with cable management. I know im not the best at it but its alot better than what i had.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> .... *I totally understand if you want to add an expensive item to the build. Your money and your build*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . .....


This..true!


----------



## Rickles

well, I might have ordered some parts as this little xigmatech loki makes over clocking in my case pretty much a no go.

Stay tuned.


----------



## Hanoverfist




----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your build is so cool.


----------



## Fonne

Aquatuning now got the EK-FCQ6000 block

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p15135_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-FCQ6000.html









Really a shame, that it only fits the workstaion GPU ....


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Aquatuning now got the EK-FCQ6000 block
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p15135_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-FCQ6000.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really a shame, that it only fits the workstaion GPU ....


That is the most plain unstylized block I have ever seen. Personally I think it's quite plain and boring. Would go great with those mips blocks.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Your build is so cool.
Click to expand...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> That is the most plain unstylized block I have ever seen. Personally I think it's quite plain and boring. Would go great with those mips blocks.


Needs moar circles?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Needs moar circles?


Anything.


----------



## PCModderMike

So many nice builds over the past few pages....I haven't come in here lately. Makes me want to get wet again.








So hard to resist.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So many nice builds over the past few pages....I haven't come in here lately. Makes me want to get wet again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So hard to resist.


Oh man! I knew the Bug was still in YOU...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So many nice builds over the past few pages....I haven't come in here lately. Makes me want to get wet again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So hard to resist.


Haha what are you doing hanging out in here!!!!

That's like a recovering alcoholic hanging out at a bar!

GETOUTTAHEA!!!! lol


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Oh man! I knew the Bug was still in YOU...


Guess you can never get rid of it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Haha what are you doing hanging out in here!!!!
> 
> That's like a recovering alcoholic hanging out at a bar!
> 
> GETOUTTAHEA!!!! lol


You're right, what am doing in here!







I'm running the risk of puttin a hurting on my wallet.... *cowers away*


----------



## Tarnix

More OCD rampage on my case... New ram coming in a few hours (<48h)
I was bothered by both the weight and the unused state of this monstrous drive cages *and* the fact that this 140mm fan was wasting it's potential... So I just removed them. And just because this is OCN...
*screwed the SSD directly on the bottom of the case.*
I swear I need to stop staring at this case! I opened it to fix a fan controller wiring mistake! Now look how it ended!


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> snip


That wound be perfect for a UP7.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Guess you can never get rid of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're right, what am doing in here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the risk of puttin a hurting on my wallet.... *cowers away*


Creepin.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> That wound be perfect for a UP7.


Sure would. The guy probably spent more on paint and painting goods then a UP7 hahahahah


----------



## NewHighScore

Here we go. It's pretty much completed. just a few final touches and cables to sleeve and I'm done! I suck at pics. Redbull and no tripod.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Here we go. It's pretty much completed. just a few final touches and cables to sleeve and I'm done! I suck at pics. Redbull and no tripod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*Wow*








I gotta get outta here.
Pics could be better though


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> *Wow*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gotta get outta here.
> Pics could be better though


Hahah thanks. I know man







I really need a tripod at the very least. (((((((SHAKEY)))))))))

lol

How long you been dry now? I'm just trying to figure out how long till you get your toes wet again.


----------



## Rolandooo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Here we go. It's pretty much completed. just a few final touches and cables to sleeve and I'm done! I suck at pics. Redbull and no tripod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build!

Makes me want to ditch my white tubing and get clear with Mayhems.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> -snip-


MSI should buy your build and put it in their lobby. Looks great!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Great job you did there *NewHighScore*. The build really makes you think about bees.







. Probably one of the best rig I've seen with a black Switch 810.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*
> 
> Very nice build!
> 
> Makes me want to ditch my white tubing and get clear with Mayhems.


I love the mayhems pastel. MIlky white pastel looks amazing. (not sure the actual name)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> MSI should buy your build and put it in their lobby. Looks great!


haha that would be my dream.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Great job you did there *NewHighScore*. The build really makes you think about bees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Probably one of the best rig I've seen with a black Switch 810.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Here we go. It's pretty much completed. just a few final touches and cables to sleeve and I'm done! I suck at pics. Redbull and no tripod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very tidy,Good work!


----------



## RKTGX95

i know you don't care too much about these, but still here is a review of the Carbon Fiber Monsoons:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/reviews/water-cooling/mod-my-toys/


Spoiler: Warning: Might grow on you a little


----------



## KaRLiToS

They seem cheap/ low quality, looking at their paint, especially the 90'. I still find them attracting.


----------



## Canis-X

MMMmmm....nah, still not my Cup-O-Tea. The only caveat would be if the build was just right so that these matched the rest of the build perfectly.....other than that, not so much. That's just me though.







Feel the same way about EK's new circle-crop thing-a-ma-jigger, whatever they call it look.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> MMMmmm....nah, still not my Cup-O-Tea. The only caveat would be if the build was just right so that these matched the rest of the build perfectly.....other than that, not so much. That's just me though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel the same way about EK's new circle-crop thing-a-ma-jigger, whatever they call it look.


i have a point. The only scenario that i liked with these is this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






and even then i can see that even though it gives a new possibility it cancels many others. (also, most of the appeal IMO comes from the bitspower block itself







)

i still find the XSPC compressions with EK (non CSQ) angles to be the best elegant solution if money is a little short.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Impressive, I love what you have done to the radiators, fans and the orange highlights! I'm not one that particularly likes radiators above and below the motherboard, but what you have done is extraordinary! Your radiators complement your build, I bet you had to dremel the lower 5.25" bays to fit the radiators.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very tidy,Good work!


Thanks B. Now I just need to learn to take some decent pictures.


----------



## davwman

Slight update. Danger den m6 arrived. its a beast


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davwman*
> 
> Slight update. Danger den m6 arrived. its a beast
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you get yours new? If so, were there some minor scratches on the top's surface? Looks sweet btw!


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *davwman*
> 
> Slight update. Danger den m6 arrived. its a beast
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you get yours new? If so, were there some minor scratches on the top's surface? Looks sweet btw!
Click to expand...

Got it on eBay brand new for $45. There are no scratches from what i can see.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davwman*
> 
> Got it on eBay brand new for $45. There are no scratches from what i can see.


I got mine from ebay too but it had a few light scratches. Mine works great though







. Got mine for the same price too


----------



## marodox

Added the GPU to the loop with an EK copper/acetyl block. I really like how it looks.


----------



## LayerCakes

I'll be posting Delilah 1.3 when my new block arrives! Tomorrow hopefully!


----------



## slippyturtle

This is my first post, but I've been a long time lurker. I just wanted to thank those that have contributed to this thread and forum, the info has been invaluable. I couldn't have built this first watercooled rig without the info and ideas I have gotten here. I just finished leak testing and getting everything back together today, and I love it.


----------



## nyeman

My 3rd WC build using the same case (XPS 730 - love it) and first time post. Saw tubes in the toilet and wonder if that's possible to use.







Checked if anyone did it already to get some ideas and saw a post by Rognin (completely an amazing build!!!). Used TechFlex metal braided sleeves but never went too far with mine just used barbs instead of which he did -> compression fitting (crazy!!!







).









My baby (left) wants to be in the pic.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> This is my first post, but I've been a long time lurker. I just wanted to thank those that have contributed to this thread and forum, the info has been invaluable. I couldn't have built this first watercooled rig without the info and ideas I have gotten here. I just finished leak testing and getting everything back together today, and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyeman*
> 
> My 3rd WC build using the same case (XPS 730 - love it) and first time post. Saw tubes in the toilet and wonder if that's possible to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked if anyone did it already to get some ideas and saw a post by Rognin (completely an amazing build!!!). Used TechFlex metal braided sleeves but never went too far with mine just used barbs instead of which he did -> compression fitting (crazy!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My baby (left) wants to be in the pic.


Looking very nice guys, and glad you're finally introducing yourselves.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> This is my first post, but I've been a long time lurker. I just wanted to thank those that have contributed to this thread and forum, the info has been invaluable. I couldn't have built this first watercooled rig without the info and ideas I have gotten here. I just finished leak testing and getting everything back together today, and I love it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job for you're first WC build. Very clean too.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyeman*
> 
> My 3rd WC build using the same case (XPS 730 - love it) and first time post. Saw tubes in the toilet and wonder if that's possible to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked if anyone did it already to get some ideas and saw a post by Rognin (completely an amazing build!!!). Used TechFlex metal braided sleeves but never went too far with mine just used barbs instead of which he did -> compression fitting (crazy!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My baby (left) wants to be in the pic.


Welcome to OCN! Whoa, that's a unique looking case. I need more pics of that please!


----------



## Rolandooo

Some really nice rigs posted the last few pages.

My leak test went excellent and I fired up the rig yesterday after work to see horrible temps on gpu2... Temps went as high as 100c and I immediately shut the computer down drained the loop and pulled out the card to investigate.

Well this is a non reference card with no IHS, I have the correct waterblock for it, but it looks like I didnt put enough Shin Etsu or the block isnt making full contact on the die. I applied some OCZ freeze since it spreads much better and going to refill and test again when I get off work.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Orange!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Impressive, I love what you have done to the radiators, fans and the orange highlights! I'm not one that particularly likes radiators above and below the motherboard, but what you have done is extraordinary! Your radiators complement your build, I bet you had to dremel the lower 5.25" bays to fit the radiators.


Very Kind Words,Thanks







. And yes, I used a Dremel and Drill for most of this.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Welcome to OCN! Whoa, that's a unique looking case. I need more pics of that please!


I believe that was a Dell case that he gutted to use. But yes, very unique and cool looking case.


----------



## Fonne

Was looking at the H100, and the fans seems to have a extreme high static pressure ?

http://www.corsair.com/hydro-series-h100-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html
Quote:


> Fan dimensions: 120mm x 120mm x 25mm
> Fan speed: 1300 - 2600RPM
> Fan airflow: 46 - 92 CFM
> Fan dBA: 22 - 39 dBA
> Fan static pressure: 1.6 - *7.7mm/H20*


39 dBA is very high, but still dont know about any other fans with that high static pressure ?


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Was looking at the H100, and the fans seems to have a extreme high static pressure ?
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/hydro-series-h100-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html
> 39 dBA is very high, but still dont know about any other fans with that high static pressure ?


There are a handful that high, but those that are generally list realistic dba values (45+ unless they are 38mm fans).

My assumption is that is a misprint, especially since CorsairGeorge stated that the stock fans are SP120's without the interchangeable rings and sound dampening corner mounts. Here are a few other 7mm/h20 fans:

17mm/h20 Delta Fan

35 mm/h20 Delta Fan

12 mm/h20 25mm thick Delta fan

Just in case you were interested in building a hover craft.


----------



## nyeman

Thanks man. Been a long time ninja visitor! Decided to join and post since got a lot of help from Rognin's post on how he did his.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Looking very nice guys, and glad you're finally introducing yourselves.


Thanks. As teamrushpntball said its a Dell proprietary case, an XPS 730. I've removed the case frame and have it painted. Bottom, top and left panel are glued to the frame which made it difficult to gut. Would love to do the paint myself but got no space. The last pic might be misleading -> weird perspective made it look like its converging on the the front. Added some at my profile album.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Welcome to OCN! Whoa, that's a unique looking case. I need more pics of that please!


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rolandooo*
> 
> Some really nice rigs posted the last few pages.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyeman*
> 
> My 3rd WC build using the same case (XPS 730 - love it) and first time post. Saw tubes in the toilet and wonder if that's possible to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked if anyone did it already to get some ideas and saw a post by Rognin (completely an amazing build!!!). Used TechFlex metal braided sleeves but never went too far with mine just used barbs instead of which he did -> compression fitting (crazy!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My baby (left) wants to be in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Love the way that sleeve looks, very complimentary to your overall scheme!


----------



## Zaca

Hi to all comunity OCN.

This is my contribution to OCN and all of you guys!











Hope you enjoy this build like i does


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaca*
> 
> Hi to all comunity OCN.
> 
> This is my contribution to OCN and all of you guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoy this build like i does


Wow nice Obsidian 800D !


----------



## Bart

My favorite colors! Nicely done!


----------



## davwman

Leak test!!! Almost ready for the delidded 3570k fun!!!


----------



## superericla

I just ordered a CaseLabs Merlin ST10 case.


----------



## dumbazz

Very very nice & I don`t particularly like red!


----------



## Alvarez

Can i join ?











PS: Just... dont look XSPC logo, i know lol


----------



## WaitWhat

So, I'd quite like to join this club, as nice water cooling gets me drooling

Only thing is, I really can't decide what kind of tubing/coolant to get

I have a white case with mostly blue lights/fans

So would you guys say clear tubing with white/blue coolant, or white/blue tubes with normal water, or something completely different?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> This is all for now.


thats some sexy sleeve


----------



## chann3l

I'd like to be added to the club. My pics are below For specs click on my rig in my signature


----------



## davwman

99% done. UV lighting and window is left.


----------



## chann3l

Extra Photos this time in the dark


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first post, but I've been a long time lurker. I just wanted to thank those that have contributed to this thread and forum, the info has been invaluable. I couldn't have built this first watercooled rig without the info and ideas I have gotten here. I just finished leak testing and getting everything back together today, and I love it.


Yes I really exciting you join this WC family! Your Phantom 630 820 Case is AMAZING S3XY & Congrats!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyeman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My 3rd WC build using the same case (XPS 730 - love it) and first time post. Saw tubes in the toilet and wonder if that's possible to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked if anyone did it already to get some ideas and saw a post by Rognin (completely an amazing build!!!). Used TechFlex metal braided sleeves but never went too far with mine just used barbs instead of which he did -> compression fitting (crazy!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My baby (left) wants to be in the pic.


Wow, I never seeing this XPS case w/ WATERCOOLED. its very UNIQUE as others says.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaca*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi to all comunity OCN.
> 
> This is my contribution to OCN and all of you guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoy this build like i does


I superbly like how you sets Radiator on back of the beautiful RIG! Your WATERCOOLED RIG is SUPER S3XY!


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Looking very nice guys, and glad you're finally introducing yourselves.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice job for you're first WC build. Very clean too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Yes I really exciting you join this WC family! Your Phantom 630 820 Case is AMAZING S3XY & Congrats!


Thanks for the welcome and compliments!


----------



## Zaca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Wow nice Obsidian 800D !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> My favorite colors! Nicely done!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Yes I really exciting you join this WC family! Your Phantom 630 820 Case is AMAZING S3XY & Congrats!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, I never seeing this XPS case w/ WATERCOOLED. its very UNIQUE as others says.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I superbly like how you sets Radiator on back of the beautiful RIG! Your WATERCOOLED RIG is SUPER S3XY!


Thanks a lot guys, I do my best to everyone try to understand the concept of watercooling and modding


----------



## PinzaC55

I completed my first water cooled build on Thursday night (after a couple of pints, broke all the rules, pressed the Power button and - nothing! The mobo lit up but the coolant didn't move and the pump was dead







What could I have done wrong? Then I realised that I had the pump connected to the fan controller and one the Molex connectors is dodgy. I jiggled the connector a bit , pressed the Power button and....Voom! everything sprang into action! No leaks, very quiet and looking quite beautiful







Yesterday I tidied all the connections up and moved the connector for the rad fans to the CPU header and it now runs ultra silent , in fact the pump is the loudest thing in there.
It only remains to thank everybody here who answered my noob questions - without help I would still have been floundering in the dark.


----------



## nyeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Love the way that sleeve looks, very complimentary to your overall scheme!


Thanks. Will try sleeving the cables next time, then the problem starts -> what color!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Wow, I never seeing this XPS case w/ WATERCOOLED. its very UNIQUE as others says.


Thanks. Got the idea from a fellow community owner same reason why I went to water and think can never go back.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I completed my first water cooled build on Thursday night (after a couple of pints, broke all the rules, pressed the Power button and - nothing! The mobo lit up but the coolant didn't move and the pump was dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What could I have done wrong? Then I realised that I had the pump connected to the fan controller and one the Molex connectors is dodgy. I jiggled the connector a bit , pressed the Power button and....Voom! everything sprang into action! No leaks, very quiet and looking quite beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday I tidied all the connections up and moved the connector for the rad fans to the CPU header and it now runs ultra silent , in fact the pump is the loudest thing in there.
> It only remains to thank everybody here who answered my noob questions - without help I would still have been floundering in the dark.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


really love your loop, simple, clean and well done. (and if got the WC bug i can already see the two things you'd water cool next







)

btw, what fans are you using? (any chance these are Phobya fans?)


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> really love your loop, simple, clean and well done. (and if got the WC bug i can already see the two things you'd water cool next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> btw, what fans are you using? (any chance these are Phobya fans?)


I bet those are CoolerMaster SickleFlow (R4)


----------



## PinzaC55

All my radiator fans are Phobya Nano 2G - very quiet and good looking. The rear exhaust fan is an Aerocool Shark 140 and it will be on ebay as soon as I find a replacement. It is very powerful but very noisy- it sounds like a jet engine on full power at 1500 RPM. I have a Geil EVO RAM cooler but I am not sure whether to put it back as I think it will make the build look unbalanced. When I bought the coolant the only red one I could find "in stock" was Mayhems UV reactive so I may get a couple of cathode tubes. If anyone can advise me a good make of cathode tube I am all ears.
Thanks for your comments!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> All my radiator fans are Phobya Nano 2G - very quiet and good looking. The rear exhaust fan is an Aerocool Shark 140 and it will be on ebay as soon as I find a replacement. It is very powerful but very noisy- it sounds like a jet engine on full power at 1500 RPM. I have a Geil EVO RAM cooler but I am not sure whether to put it back as I think it will make the build look unbalanced. When I bought the coolant the only red one I could find "in stock" was Mayhems UV reactive so I may get a couple of cathode tubes. If anyone can advise me a good make of cathode tube I am all ears.
> Thanks for your comments!


My mistake.


----------



## mr one

Maybe someone could give me some advices on reservoirs and loop configuration?







I decided to join this club too


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Maybe someone could give me some advices on reservoirs and loop configuration?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to join this club too


Your first loop?
the rule of thumb for me would be:
1. Dont run the pump dry, pump always come after the reservoir
2. Plan ahead and do some research
3. 120 radiator for each component you are cooling plus another 120 for extra, ie a CPU + a graphic need at least 360 rad (for me though)

choose the reservoir that fits in your budget and looks good in your opinion


----------



## jokrik

Btw can anyone tell me whether a 3/4ID 5/8OD tube is better than 3/4ID 1/2OD tube in term of bending/kink resistance?
I've to use 3/4ID tube since I'm planning to use the fusion thermo on my motherboard, currently using the 1/2OD tube
If there isnt much difference on the kink resistance might aswell stick with the current 1/2OD and save some bucks or spend it on other components


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Your first loop?
> the rule of thumb for me would be:
> 1. Dont run the pump dry, pump always come after the reservoir
> 2. Plan ahead and do some research
> 3. 120 radiator for each component you are cooling plus another 120 for extra, ie a CPU + a graphic need at least 360 rad (for me though)
> 
> choose the reservoir that fits in your budget and looks good in your opinion


Thanks







but i think i did most of the homework on this







whats left is to choose proper reservioir and to do something with loop config before all parts arrive







whats is on my mind is that how to mount a reservoir if im using apogee drive







i know that reservoir must be in higher position than pump, but what to do with this if i cant use 3.5 bay res or other bay res







im kinda stuck with tube reservoirs because of custom case design


----------



## NomNomNom

You could just run the pump when the case is upsidedown to get water to the pump unless your case is massive, or or with a swiftech res if you dont mind the looks of it, it basically mounts anywhere. If that doesnt work then last resort could be buying a swiftech rad with a res in it and installing it above your pump


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> You could just run the pump when the case is upsidedown to get water to the pump unless your case is massive, or or with a swiftech res if you dont mind the looks of it, it basically mounts anywhere. If that doesnt work then last resort could be buying a swiftech rad with a res in it and installing it above your pump


But if i could manage to mount tube res in horizontal position somewhere at the rad or just run it outside case somewhere in rear panel?







that might work out too?


----------



## NomNomNom

As long as it feeds into the pump via gravity sure!


----------



## kcuestag

Hey guys, do you think 540mm worth of rad space is enough to cool down 2x GTX680 and i7 3930k @ 4.6GHz? While gaming the CPU never breaks above 70ºC and the GPU's never break above ~48ºC with a heavy overclock, this is with both cards at 99% usage. If I just run Prime 95 on the CPU and idle the cards it never reaches above 65ºC. In [email protected] however, since everything is at 100% usage, it does get a bit toasty, cards go as high as 56ºC on hot nights and CPU goes as high as 78ºC.

I did try adding an extra 120mm rad I had laying around, but it didn't really do anything, so I guess this 540mm rad is still more than enough for my loop?

PS: If it helps, my 3930k is a poor clocker, needs 1.4v for 4.6GHz, but I can't complain since I got it VERY cheap from a friend.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> As long as it feeds into the pump via gravity sure!


Thanks then


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys, do you think 540mm worth of rad space is enough to cool down 2x GTX680 and i7 3930k @ 4.6GHz? While gaming the CPU never breaks above 70ºC and the GPU's never break above ~48ºC with a heavy overclock, this is with both cards at 99% usage. If I just run Prime 95 on the CPU and idle the cards it never reaches above 65ºC. In [email protected] however, since everything is at 100% usage, it does get a bit toasty, cards go as high as 56ºC on hot nights and CPU goes as high as 78ºC.
> 
> I did try adding an extra 120mm rad I had laying around, but it didn't really do anything, so I guess this 540mm rad is still more than enough for my loop?
> 
> PS: If it helps, my 3930k is a poor clocker, needs 1.4v for 4.6GHz, but I can't complain since I got it VERY cheap from a friend.


Im confused, why are you asking us if we think its enough read space, when you already have that all installed lol, is your rad in push/pull or only push?

I got a [email protected] speeds, and 3930k @4Ghz with two black ice 240 rads, ones a stealth and they got ap15s in push/pull and my 690 doesn't go over 38degrees while gaming, and my 3930k stays around 40 while gaming


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys, do you think 540mm worth of rad space is enough to cool down 2x GTX680 and i7 3930k @ 4.6GHz? While gaming the CPU never breaks above 70ºC and the GPU's never break above ~48ºC with a heavy overclock, this is with both cards at 99% usage. If I just run Prime 95 on the CPU and idle the cards it never reaches above 65ºC. In [email protected] however, since everything is at 100% usage, it does get a bit toasty, cards go as high as 56ºC on hot nights and CPU goes as high as 78ºC.
> 
> I did try adding an extra 120mm rad I had laying around, but it didn't really do anything, so I guess this 540mm rad is still more than enough for my loop?
> 
> PS: If it helps, my 3930k is a poor clocker, needs 1.4v for 4.6GHz, but I can't complain since I got it VERY cheap from a friend.


Hey kcuestag.

*In my opinion*, the best way to verify if you have enough rad space is not with your CPU or GPUs temperatures. You have to compare your room (or case) ambient temperature and check the delta between the water temperature. At a point, you will add more and more rad space, but water temp can never be UNDER ambient temp. I call that a saturate / professionnal loop









If your Ambient: *26'C*
and water Temp: *41'C*

^This is very average rad space. (Delta = 15'C







)

If your Ambient: *26'C*
and water Temp: *30'C*

^This is very good watercooling Loop. (Delta = 4'C














)



Spoiler: More INFO!



http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

*Delta T (DT) and Why it's so Important to Understand it*

DT is the foundation of your water cooling loop. The better your DT, the cooler your chips are. In water cooling, DT is simply the difference between the ambient air temperature and the water temperature on the outgoing side of the radiator. Room temperature vs. water temperature: that's it. You can't remove all the heat - no system is 100% efficient, nor can you go below ambient room temperature.

When you boot up a powered off, water-cooled PC, the water and your CPU are at room temperature. When you boot the PC up, the chip gets hot very fast. The water moves over the chip, it begins to remove heat, the heat goes to the radiator, and some of the heat is removed. Not all of it can be removed. You have to know a lot of thermodynamics theory deeply (more than me) to know exactly why. The water begins to warm up slowly, and in time it reaches a balance: an equilibrium. Heat is made and heat removed, the loop is stabilized and temperatures will not change.

If you change the room temperature, the load on the loop or your fan speed, the loop needs to readjust. This is when we like to measure our cooling ability - usually 30 minutes at a stable load is long enough to begin to measure. If you increase your cooling capability, the water will get cooler.

Water temperatures in a stabilized loop, amazingly, are very similar anywhere in the loop. There is only a 2-3°C maximum difference between the radiator out temperature and the CPU out temperature; this has been verified by Skinnee. Remember, the water can't remove all the heat, some is transferred to the air. Your radiator size, efficiency and fans play a big part in this. Look at it this way - it's a system built on many parts and within the laws of physics. Every part affects the other.

*Let's Talk About What a "Good" DT is*

A CPU loop needs a good DT. Under 10°C is just fine, getting closer to 5°C is very nice and important if you want big overclocks. Getting under 5°C is just overdoing it, unless you're very extreme, need it for benching or just want a challenge. On an average CPU loop shoot for under 10°C and adjust your overclocks to be fine under the temperatures suggested by the CPU and GPU manufacturers.

A GPU loop used to be fine with a 15° to 20°C DT. If you're a big GPU overclocker, then shoot for 15°C or lower. The Voltage Regulator Modules (VRM) on these new cards can be affected by temps. If you've got a GTX 280 like me, don't worry about it, it's the 5970 and the GTX480 and other really hot cards that can have this issue. A lower DT might be needed for a GPU loop if you're a big overclocker - thats up to you as you design your setup.



.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys, do you think 540mm worth of rad space is enough to cool down 2x GTX680 and i7 3930k @ 4.6GHz? While gaming the CPU never breaks above 70ºC and the GPU's never break above ~48ºC with a heavy overclock, this is with both cards at 99% usage. If I just run Prime 95 on the CPU and idle the cards it never reaches above 65ºC. In [email protected] however, since everything is at 100% usage, it does get a bit toasty, cards go as high as 56ºC on hot nights and CPU goes as high as 78ºC.
> 
> I did try adding an extra 120mm rad I had laying around, but it didn't really do anything, so I guess this 540mm rad is still more than enough for my loop?
> 
> PS: If it helps, my 3930k is a poor clocker, needs 1.4v for 4.6GHz, but I can't complain since I got it VERY cheap from a friend.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys, do you think 540mm worth of rad space is enough to cool down 2x GTX680 and i7 3930k @ 4.6GHz? While gaming the CPU never breaks above 70ºC and the GPU's never break above ~48ºC with a heavy overclock, this is with both cards at 99% usage. If I just run Prime 95 on the CPU and idle the cards it never reaches above 65ºC. In [email protected] however, since everything is at 100% usage, it does get a bit toasty, cards go as high as 56ºC on hot nights and CPU goes as high as 78ºC.
> 
> I did try adding an extra 120mm rad I had laying around, but it didn't really do anything, so I guess this 540mm rad is still more than enough for my loop?
> 
> PS: If it helps, my 3930k is a poor clocker, needs 1.4v for 4.6GHz, but I can't complain since I got it VERY cheap from a friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey kcuestag.
> 
> *In my opinion*, the best way to verify if you have enough rad space is not with your CPU or GPUs temperatures. You have to compare your room (or case) ambient temperature and check the delta between the water temperature. At a point, you will add more and more rad space, but water temp can never be UNDER ambient temp. I call that a saturate / professionnal loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your Ambient: *26'C*
> and water Temp: *41'C*
> 
> ^This is very average rad space. (Delta = 15'C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> If your Ambient: *26'C*
> and water Temp: *30'C*
> 
> ^This is very good watercooling Loop. (Delta = 4'C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More INFO!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/
> 
> *Delta T (DT) and Why it's so Important to Understand it*
> 
> DT is the foundation of your water cooling loop. The better your DT, the cooler your chips are. In water cooling, DT is simply the difference between the ambient air temperature and the water temperature on the outgoing side of the radiator. Room temperature vs. water temperature: that's it. You can't remove all the heat - no system is 100% efficient, nor can you go below ambient room temperature.
> 
> When you boot up a powered off, water-cooled PC, the water and your CPU are at room temperature. When you boot the PC up, the chip gets hot very fast. The water moves over the chip, it begins to remove heat, the heat goes to the radiator, and some of the heat is removed. Not all of it can be removed. You have to know a lot of thermodynamics theory deeply (more than me) to know exactly why. The water begins to warm up slowly, and in time it reaches a balance: an equilibrium. Heat is made and heat removed, the loop is stabilized and temperatures will not change.
> 
> If you change the room temperature, the load on the loop or your fan speed, the loop needs to readjust. This is when we like to measure our cooling ability - usually 30 minutes at a stable load is long enough to begin to measure. If you increase your cooling capability, the water will get cooler.
> 
> Water temperatures in a stabilized loop, amazingly, are very similar anywhere in the loop. There is only a 2-3°C maximum difference between the radiator out temperature and the CPU out temperature; this has been verified by Skinnee. Remember, the water can't remove all the heat, some is transferred to the air. Your radiator size, efficiency and fans play a big part in this. Look at it this way - it's a system built on many parts and within the laws of physics. Every part affects the other.
> 
> *Let's Talk About What a "Good" DT is*
> 
> A CPU loop needs a good DT. Under 10°C is just fine, getting closer to 5°C is very nice and important if you want big overclocks. Getting under 5°C is just overdoing it, unless you're very extreme, need it for benching or just want a challenge. On an average CPU loop shoot for under 10°C and adjust your overclocks to be fine under the temperatures suggested by the CPU and GPU manufacturers.
> 
> A GPU loop used to be fine with a 15° to 20°C DT. If you're a big GPU overclocker, then shoot for 15°C or lower. The Voltage Regulator Modules (VRM) on these new cards can be affected by temps. If you've got a GTX 280 like me, don't worry about it, it's the 5970 and the GTX480 and other really hot cards that can have this issue. A lower DT might be needed for a GPU loop if you're a big overclocker - thats up to you as you design your setup.
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

You should post these kind of questions in their own thread kcuestag rather than here but Katlitos has given you a very exacting answer,right on the money.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Thanks B-Neg.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> This is my first post, but I've been a long time lurker. I just wanted to thank those that have contributed to this thread and forum, the info has been invaluable. I couldn't have built this first watercooled rig without the info and ideas I have gotten here. I just finished leak testing and getting everything back together today, and I love it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking loop and build.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyeman*
> 
> My 3rd WC build using the same case (XPS 730 - love it) and first time post. Saw tubes in the toilet and wonder if that's possible to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked if anyone did it already to get some ideas and saw a post by Rognin (completely an amazing build!!!). Used TechFlex metal braided sleeves but never went too far with mine just used barbs instead of which he did -> compression fitting (crazy!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My baby (left) wants to be in the pic.


Very unique. Love the old school XPS.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaca*
> 
> Hi to all comunity OCN.
> 
> This is my contribution to OCN and all of you guys!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoy this build like i does


Wow! Decked out with Di-Noc....love it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those white BP fittings are so smexy.


----------



## kcuestag

Wish I had a way of measuring the water temperature, I did have a display I bought from Aquatuning but I ended up cutting the cable by mistake.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Wish I had a way of measuring the water temperature, I did have a display I bought from Aquatuning but I ended up cutting the cable by mistake.


Do you have a Lamptron controller with temp sensors? Any 2pin sensor works with them.

Or you could,you know,drop a thermometer in the fluid,its doenst have to be a sensor.....


----------



## mr one

Ok this will work out as my loop order?







Sorry if this wrong thread


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Ok this will work out as my loop order?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if this wrong thread


No.

Res before pump.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Wish I had a way of measuring the water temperature, I did have a display I bought from Aquatuning but I ended up cutting the cable by mistake.


This is my temperature sensor, you just need a T-Block and a temp sensor

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_618&products_id=24839



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24759



I also added some spacers not to affect the flow with the sensor pin (as you can see in the pic) (This is my external back radiator)


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks, also I'm using a Magicool 540mm rad which is not very thick at all, running 3 AP-181 fans on pull mode at ~1000RPM.

Would I benefit more from adding 3 more AP-181 fans (Which would probably cost me like 15-16€ each) or better add an external 240mm/360mm rad?

I'll try measuring delta as soon as I can, if I remember right when I installed the loop back with the 2600k it was something like 10ºC, not 100% sure.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No.
> 
> Res before pump.


Umm im better understanding it when i see drawn







first time water cooling for me so i kinda suck at loop order things


----------



## Juthos

First post in the Mecca of watercooling, I'm quite nervous.
This is my th10


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> First post in the Mecca of watercooling, I'm quite nervous.
> This is my th10


Very interesting color scheme. I like what you've done here. You did the red and white very well with minimal black in there. I usually not a fan at all of the red builds because they have been done 1000000x over but yours is definitely unique. Well done sir! Welcome to OCN.


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> First post in the Mecca of watercooling, I'm quite nervous.
> This is my th10


fantastic case


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> All my radiator fans are Phobya Nano 2G - very quiet and good looking. The rear exhaust fan is an Aerocool Shark 140 and it will be on ebay as soon as I find a replacement. It is very powerful but very noisy- it sounds like a jet engine on full power at 1500 RPM. I have a Geil EVO RAM cooler but I am not sure whether to put it back as I think it will make the build look unbalanced. When I bought the coolant the only red one I could find "in stock" was Mayhems UV reactive so I may get a couple of cathode tubes. If anyone can advise me a good make of cathode tube I am all ears.
> Thanks for your comments!


do they give a nice dark glow? (i.e. a a bit dim red glow without lighting the whole case red.) and how noisy they are? (if you spped them down, what do you use?)
on the Mayhems UV red i'd reconsider the use of it. Mayhems state that since they have to use the UV pink dye with red to achieve the closest thing to UV red (since it technically doesn't exist. but variations of UV orange or pink do) they do not strongly recommend it because the UV pink additive is the strongest staining dye that mayhems produce and ususally if it is possible to avoid it it should be.

(a question to everyone else: is it possible to achieve a red glow that resembles the other UV colors glow? maybe close to the infra red spectrum to achieve a glow effect of the red color? help is appreciated







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Ok this will work out as my loop order?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if this wrong thread


everything is fine as long as you keep the idea of Res (outlet) to pump (inlet)
btw, i like your idea of mounting a tube res. gives it a great look

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> First post in the Mecca of watercooling, I'm quite nervous.
> This is my th10


Pure awesomeness !


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














































































































































































































































































































i think you nailed the color scheme so well it's unbelievable. The red to white balance transition is well done and the small black accent is right on the spot. no less and no more, pure planing and (your) pride.









is it red pastel or just red dye?


----------



## mr one

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> do they give a nice dark glow? (i.e. a a bit dim red glow without lighting the whole case red.) and how noisy they are? (if you spped them down, what do you use?)
> on the Mayhems UV red i'd reconsider the use of it. Mayhems state that since they have to use the UV pink dye with red to achieve the closest thing to UV red (since it technically doesn't exist. but variations of UV orange or pink do) they do not strongly recommend it because the UV pink additive is the strongest staining dye that mayhems produce and ususally if it is possible to avoid it it should be.
> 
> (a question to everyone else: is it possible to achieve a red glow that resembles the other UV colors glow? maybe close to the infra red spectrum to achieve a glow effect of the red color? help is appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> everything is fine as long as you keep the idea of Res (outlet) to pump (inlet)
> btw, i like your idea of mounting a tube res. gives it a great look
> Pure awesomeness !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> 
> i think you nailed the color scheme so well it's unbelievable. The red to white balance transition is well done and the small black accent is right on the spot. no less and no more, pure planing and (your) pride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it red pastel or just red dye?






Thanks, this is a could really fit way in this case







maybe somewhere inside if im gonna use a sff psu







and a slim fans


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> 
> Thanks, this is a could really fit way in this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe somewhere inside if im gonna use a sff psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a slim fans


no, i think it might actually look better outside the case. gives me the idea of sort of a cylinder or something similar when i think to mount a tube res horizontally outside like that. (or maybe you could think of something even better. it's all about planing what you want, and obviously spending a lot of money on WC at it







)


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> no, i think it might actually look better outside the case. gives me the idea of sort of a cylinder or something similar when i think to mount a tube res horizontally outside like that. (or maybe you could think of something even better. it's all about planing what you want, and obviously spending a lot of money on WC at it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Mounting it outside it gives me a more room inside case







and as about spending money, oh with this i managed to fit in my budget







some things brought with discounts, some of them i found dirt cheap







Oh still cant decide on what type of coolant to go


----------



## jeffblute

Well this was my little adventure for the last two - three days. Still gotta pick up my new PSU but it might be a bit, and snag a 8950 when those drop.

Also gotta do a bit more temperature tests and check on flow rate, ect. But really liking how this turned out so far, fun little case to work with


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Very interesting color scheme. I like what you've done here. You did the red and white very well with minimal black in there. I usually not a fan at all of the red builds because they have been done 1000000x over but yours is definitely unique. Well done sir! Welcome to OCN.


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> fantastic case











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Pure awesomeness !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> 
> i think you nailed the color scheme so well it's unbelievable. The red to white balance transition is well done and the small black accent is right on the spot. no less and no more, pure planing and (your) pride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it red pastel or just red dye?


Thanks. Yes in the res on the right red pastel , not light red pastel or grape red.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> This is my temperature sensor, you just need a T-Block and a temp sensor
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_618&products_id=24839
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24759
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also added some spacers not to affect the flow with the sensor pin (as you can see in the pic) (This is my external back radiator)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey Karlito...what do you plug the sensor into? Fan header?


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> First post in the Mecca of watercooling, I'm quite nervous.
> This is my th10


ohh dear god.. i just want to throw my rig away, that is fantastic....!


----------



## mr one

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well this was my little adventure for the last two - three days. Still gotta pick up my new PSU but it might be a bit, and snag a 8950 when those drop.
> 
> Also gotta do a bit more temperature tests and check on flow rate, ect. But really liking how this turned out so far, fun little case to work with






That rad







its bigger than my case in one row of fans vertical and one row of fans horizontal


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> First post in the Mecca of watercooling, I'm quite nervous.
> This is my th10


the sudden taste of peppermint in my mouth.


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> First post in the Mecca of watercooling, I'm quite nervous.
> This is my th10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the sudden taste of peppermint in my mouth.
Click to expand...

Suddenly have the urge for some maraschino cherries!







what size sleeving did you use for the pci-e cables


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> do they give a nice dark glow? (i.e. a a bit dim red glow without lighting the whole case red.) and how noisy they are? (if you spped them down, what do you use?)
> on the Mayhems UV red i'd reconsider the use of it. Mayhems state that since they have to use the UV pink dye with red to achieve the closest thing to UV red (since it technically doesn't exist. but variations of UV orange or pink do) they do not strongly recommend it because the UV pink additive is the strongest staining dye that mayhems produce and ususally if it is possible to avoid it it should be.
> 
> (a question to everyone else: is it possible to achieve a red glow that resembles the other UV colors glow? maybe close to the infra red spectrum to achieve a glow effect of the red color? help is appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> everything is fine as long as you keep the idea of Res (outlet) to pump (inlet)
> btw, i like your idea of mounting a tube res. gives it a great look
> Pure awesomeness !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> i think you nailed the color scheme so well it's unbelievable. The red to white balance transition is well done and the small black accent is right on the spot. no less and no more, pure planing and (your) pride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it red pastel or just red dye?


The Phobya Nano 2G's have 14 blades, 7 black and 7 red. They are VERY quiet and when used in conjunction with my mobo (MSI Big Bang Xpower II) tend to reflect the power LEDs and give a flickering pattern of blue/red. It just sucks that Phobya don't do them in any other size. I have to say that overall Phobya products rock.


----------



## Hokies83

I love those pic-e cables!

Well i was going case labs would have cost me near 700$ with shipping..

I found a Mountain Mods Ascension for 230$ shipped.. and being able to fit 4 360 rads and 3 480 rads of 86mm thickness i could not pass it up for that price lol...

Build log should start in afew weeks.

Already have the hardware from my Sig.. it is on a table yanked it out of my Cosmos 2 as a protest to cooler masters lack of support..


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Hey Karlito...what do you plug the sensor into? Fan header?


No, its plugged into my Motherboard, onto a OPT_TEMP plug. You have maximus V Extreme:

If you refer to your user manual. All the #13 are OPT_Temp (sensor). Red boxed

And I use aida64 to monitor my temps sensor...*NEVER* USE ASUS AI SUITE, or PROBE




Spoiler: For a bigger view of the layout!







*Aida64* (Taskbar Icons, Left OSD, Right desktop gadget and LCD Panel)



Spoiler: Check my desktop and refer to water Temp.!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> First post in the Mecca of watercooling, I'm quite nervous.
> This is my th10


Please,

Will you be my Valentine?









On another note,

I've been busy working on some mods to the first of the three 400 mm Bitspower reseviors for my Stretched Limo build so that they have some visual appeal, as well as being able to keep the silver in the Auroras well suspended . . . a difficult task with large volume resevoirs.

Here's the results of too much coffee and a workshop:

Darlene

I did a quick little video, but it looks sooo much better in person,as I don't have a real video camera.




Here's a pic that has a lot more detail if you enlarge it some:



After I did the first pics and the little video, I realized that the effect looked cooler from the back side, so I reconfigured the jet tube and the outlet so that it looks best from the front:





Guess I should add a pic of the test run of my triple channel, auto / manual selectable, PWM controller for 6 D5's at 24V:


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Guess I should add a pic of the test run of my triple channel, auto / manual selectable, PWM controller for 6 D5's at 24V:


SIX D5's?

SIX?!?!


----------



## Drake.L

ITDiva, are you the person with the 2 NZXT Phantoms cut up? I remember seeing that on my iPad and almost flipped my ****. The only reason why I think it was you is because you said "stretched limo" build.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> SIX D5's?
> 
> SIX?!?!


It's a three loop setup where each loop has a Bitspower dual D5 acrylic pumptop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> ITDiva, are you the person with the 2 NZXT Phantoms cut up? I remember seeing that on my iPad and almost flipped my ****. The only reason why I think it was you is because you said "stretched limo" build.


That's me, and it's 3 new phantom 820's to get 840 rads up top and on the bottom.

Buildlog is in my sig.

Darlene


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> No, its plugged into my Motherboard, onto a OPT_TEMP plug. You have maximus V Extreme:
> 
> If you refer to your user manual. All the #13 are OPT_Temp (sensor). Red boxed
> 
> And I use aida64 to monitor my temps sensor...*NEVER* USE ASUS AI SUITE, or PROBE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: For a bigger view of the layout!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Aida64* (Taskbar Icons, Left OSD, Right desktop gadget and LCD Panel)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Check my desktop and refer to water Temp.!


Thanks Karlitos, I found them with your guide...


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is my temperature sensor, you just need a T-Block and a temp sensor
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_618&products_id=24839
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24759
> 
> 
> 
> I also added some spacers not to affect the flow with the sensor pin (as you can see in the pic) (This is my external back radiator)


Ouch! This looks so painful!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Ouch! This looks so painful!


Tell me about it







my fingers are still cut up from doing my loop.

lol, doing monsoon fittings, by hand lawl.

that damn tool is so hard to fit in some places, hands are a must some times. lol and they got no grips just sharp circles.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Ouch! This looks so painful!


If you close up on the fittings, you can still see some finger skin .


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Btw can anyone tell me whether a 3/4ID 5/8OD tube is better than 3/4ID 1/2OD tube in term of bending/kink resistance?
> I've to use 3/4ID tube since I'm planning to use the fusion thermo on my motherboard, currently using the 1/2OD tube
> If there isnt much difference on the kink resistance might aswell stick with the current 1/2OD and save some bucks or spend it on other components


Anyone?


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Anyone?


I heard it was supposed to be mmore resistant to kinks and it makes sense. It's what im using in my loop


----------



## danman4734

do you mean 3/8''id x 5/8''od and 3/8''id x 1/2''od if so the 3/8'' x 5/8'' will kink less than the 3/8'' x 1/2'' tubing


----------



## kcuestag

Looks like I'm going to separate the GPU's from the CPU and use 2 different loops. A friend is giving me the following:

- EK CoolStream XT160
- Phobya pump/res combo DCP 4.0 and a small res
- 90º angled hose connectors

I plan on using the current rad/pump/res for the GPU's and then mount the EK rad externally behind, and leave the dcp4.0 and res inside where the D5 is right now, move the D5 to the drive bays. What do you guys think?

It's not like my temperatures are dangerous or anything, but I could get them much lower if I did separate the loops.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danman4734*
> 
> do you mean 3/8''id x 5/8''od and 3/8''id x 1/2''od if so the 3/8'' x 5/8'' will kink less than the 3/8'' x 1/2'' tubing


im glad i went 3/8 5/8 then lol

Maybe i went with it because its closer to five seven.


----------



## jokrik

I can see that the 5/8 OD look better, more solid since the thickness of the 5/8 OD tube is double the thickness of 1/2 OD
Guess I've to start looking for new fittings, was thinking to get monsoon,
Is it any good?
I know Bitspower is one of the best, but looking at the price, buying 3 of bitspower fittings can get me 6 of monsoons


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I can see that the 5/8 OD look better, more solid since the thickness of the 5/8 OD tube is double the thickness of 1/2 OD
> Guess I've to start looking for new fittings, was thinking to get monsoon,
> Is it any good?
> I know Bitspower is one of the best, but looking at the price, buying 3 of bitspower fittings can get me 6 of monsoons


I like the monsoons,

Some people don't like it

The tool that they use for the fittings is kinda useless, might as well bend a fork and use that.








but if you give it time and babying, it can look nice.

It holds onto tubing like a cats claws on your face







(( or tree ))

- I got sponsored from them, and the staff is pretty nice,
Keeps very good contact with me, so im likely going to order again.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I like the monsoons,
> 
> Some people don't like it
> 
> The tool that they use for the fittings is kinda useless, might as well bend a fork and use that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but if you give it time and babying, it can look nice.
> 
> It holds onto tubing like a cats claws on your face
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (( or tree ))
> 
> - I got sponsored from them, and the staff is pretty nice,
> Keeps very good contact with me, so im likely going to order again.


Im planning to get the white color one but I dont like how their angled adapters look
I was thinking to get bitspower adapter which are THIS or THIS
Do you think it would go well with the monsoons?
I can see from you video the monsoon fittings are quite big in term of the diameter, though the G1/4 thread fit on each other (adapters and fittings of my choice) I'm afraid it would look funny to see the diameter of the fitting is bigger than the adapter


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Im planning to get the white color one but I dont like how their angled adapters look
> I was thinking to get bitspower adapter which are THIS or THIS
> Do you think it would go well with the monsoons?
> I can see from you video the monsoon fittings are quite big in term of the diameter, though the G1/4 thread fit on each other (adapters and fittings of my choice) I'm afraid it would look funny to see the diameter of the fitting is bigger than the adapter


those bitspowers look great

you can see a sample of the whites here from my build log



my crappy camera work probably don't do them any justice lol


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> those bitspowers look great
> 
> you can see a sample of the whites here from my build
> 
> my crappy camera work probably don't do them any justice lol


Oh yeah! Im so getting one, thx for the info!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Oh yeah! Im so getting one, thx for the info!


loved to help


----------



## cruelntention

Question for you guys, where would I put a t-block for draining purposes?


----------



## animal0307

I'd put it between your pump outlet and your front rad.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I'd put it between your pump outlet and your front rad.


I second this notion


----------



## cruelntention

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I second this notion


Man I was afraid of that...another question...do you think hooking up a QDC to the ek bridge would work also or just do the t block?


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> ohh dear god.. i just want to throw my rig away, that is fantastic....!










Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davwman*
> 
> Suddenly have the urge for some maraschino cherries!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what size sleeving did you use for the pci-e cables


I don't know, i bought them in Poland.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Please,
> 
> Will you be my Valentine?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cut


Sure, why not


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruelntention*
> 
> Question for you guys, where would I put a t-block for draining purposes?


Why not put a bitspower mini valve with a 45 or 90 (if there's not enough side clearance to run it straight out) and male to male rotary where the cap is on the inlet port that's facing front . .

That's about the lowest part of the system, and no need to take anything apart to install.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Looks like I'm going to separate the GPU's from the CPU and use 2 different loops. A friend is giving me the following:
> 
> - EK CoolStream XT160
> - Phobya pump/res combo DCP 4.0 and a small res
> - 90º angled hose connectors
> 
> I plan on using the current rad/pump/res for the GPU's and then mount the EK rad externally behind, and leave the dcp4.0 and res inside where the D5 is right now, move the D5 to the drive bays. What do you guys think?
> 
> It's not like my temperatures are dangerous or anything, but I could get them much lower if I did separate the loops.


Temps wont be changed greatly at all,we have explained how you need to do delta checks to determine your loops effectiveness.
Dual loop isnt the answer most of the time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cruelntention*
> 
> Question for you guys, where would I put a t-block for draining purposes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Why not put a bitspower mini valve with a 45 or 90 (if there's not enough side clearance to run it straight out) and male to male rotary where the cap is on the inlet port that's facing front . .
> 
> That's about the lowest part of the system, and no need to take anything apart to install.
> *
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

This.
It how i drain my loop.
I also just pull tubing with the rig on its side....


----------



## PinzaC55

This is the drain valve I used in my loop http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Koolance-14quot-Thread-Drain-Valve--VLV-XTSPLB-pid-12834.html Very versatile and it has a built in barb if you want to use a tube.


----------



## sate200

my Rig!!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


>


*sate200* , I will always love your build. I really loved when you had your dual parallel Radiator at the back. Do you still have the Mora Radiator?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Looks like I'm going to separate the GPU's from the CPU and use 2 different loops. A friend is giving me the following:
> 
> - EK CoolStream XT160
> - Phobya pump/res combo DCP 4.0 and a small res
> - 90º angled hose connectors
> 
> I plan on using the current rad/pump/res for the GPU's and then mount the EK rad externally behind, and leave the dcp4.0 and res inside where the D5 is right now, move the D5 to the drive bays. What do you guys think?
> 
> It's not like my temperatures are dangerous or anything, but I could get them much lower *if I did separate the loops*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Temps wont be changed greatly at all,we have explained how you need to do delta checks to determine your loops effectiveness.
> *Dual loop isnt the answer most of the time*.


^This









With Dual Loops and your case...good luck. You can add the rad (EK CoolStream XT160) to your loop though.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Looks like I'm going to separate the GPU's from the CPU and use 2 different loops. A friend is giving me the following:
> 
> - EK CoolStream XT360
> - Phobya pump/res combo DCP 4.0 and a small res
> - 90º angled hose connectors
> 
> I plan on using the current rad/pump/res for the GPU's and then mount the EK rad externally behind, and leave the dcp4.0 and res inside where the D5 is right now, move the D5 to the drive bays. What do you guys think?
> 
> It's not like my temperatures are dangerous or anything, but I could get them much lower if I did separate the loops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps wont be changed greatly at all,we have explained how you need to do delta checks to determine your loops effectiveness.
> Dual loop isnt the answer most of the time.
Click to expand...

Delta is around 15ºC now that I added the 3930k, this is when pushing everything at 100% load with [email protected]

Easiest thing would be to just add that EK 360 rad into the same loop, but wouldn't making 2 loops be much better?

Keep in mind money is very tight, so I'm only getting those things listed above, so it's either adding the XT360 into this loop, or making 2 different loops.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Delta is around 15ºC now that I added the 3930k, *this is when pushing everything at 100% load with [email protected]*.
> 
> Easiest thing would be to just add that EK 360 rad into the same loop, *but wouldn't making 2 loops be much better*?
> 
> Keep in mind money is very tight, so I'm only getting those things listed above, so it's either *adding the XT360 into this loop*, or making 2 different loops.


You have MCP 655?----> *Yes* ---->then get MOAR RADZ. What about a 360 on the back or on the Top, mod that case. But I wouldn't suggest two loops for such a small case.

Delta 15'C is not so bad when everything is *100% Load*


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Delta is around 15ºC now that I added the 3930k, *this is when pushing everything at 100% load with [email protected]*.
> 
> Easiest thing would be to just add that EK 360 rad into the same loop, *but wouldn't making 2 loops be much better*?
> 
> Keep in mind money is very tight, so I'm only getting those things listed above, so it's either *adding the XT360 into this loop*, or making 2 different loops.
> 
> 
> 
> You have MCP 655?----> *Yes* ---->then get MOAR RADZ. What about a 360 on the back or on the Top, mod that case. But I wouldn't suggest two loops for such a small case.
> 
> Delta 15'C is not so bad when everything is *100% Load*
Click to expand...

At the top it wouldn't be a good idea because it would get all the heat from the bottom 540mm rad, but at the back of the case it would be fine since it has 2 holes on the bottom already so I only need 90º angled hoses or whatever they're called, a friend is giving me some. Would the EK CoolStream XT360 do good enough? That's all I can get.









Good thing is I don't need to mod the case, it already has 2 plastic pieces which serve to hold a 360mm rad in the back, to use those 2 holes I mentioned.


----------



## MiiX

Delta is:
Water temp - Ambient temp?


----------



## King4x4

Yuz


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> At the top it wouldn't be a good idea because it would get all the heat from the bottom 540mm rad, but at the back of the case it would be fine since it has 2 holes on the bottom already so I only need 90º angled hoses or whatever they're called, a friend is giving me some. Would the EK CoolStream XT360 do good enough? That's all I can get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing is I don't need to mod the case, it already has 2 plastic pieces which serve to hold a 360mm rad in the back, to use those 2 holes I mentioned.


Interesting to see the 360 on the back, if you decide to do it. But 15c Delta is pretty damn good for what you're running.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> At the top it wouldn't be a good idea because it would get all the heat from the bottom 540mm rad, but at the back of the case it would be fine since it has 2 holes on the bottom already so I only need 90º angled hoses or whatever they're called, a friend is giving me some. Would the EK CoolStream XT360 do good enough? That's all I can get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing is I don't need to mod the case, it already has 2 plastic pieces which serve to hold a 360mm rad in the back, to use those 2 holes I mentioned.


I'm pretty sure the EK 360 Rad will help you reach a Delta below 5-7'C. You are running 2 x GPUs and 1 x CPU (SB-E) on one SLIM Magicool Rad. The 360 will greatly help.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> At the top it wouldn't be a good idea because it would get all the heat from the bottom 540mm rad, but at the back of the case it would be fine since it has 2 holes on the bottom already so I only need 90º angled hoses or whatever they're called, a friend is giving me some. Would the EK CoolStream XT360 do good enough? That's all I can get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing is I don't need to mod the case, it already has 2 plastic pieces which serve to hold a 360mm rad in the back, to use those 2 holes I mentioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure the EK 360 Rad will help you reach a Delta below 5-7'C. You are running 2 x GPUs and 1 x CPU (SB-E) on one SLIM Magicool Rad. The 360 will greatly help.
Click to expand...

Thank you KaRLiToS (I guess you're Carlos?







), I should be recieving the XT360 before the weekend, if I get to drop the temperatures even just 5ºC I'd be more than happy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Interesting to see the 360 on the back, if you decide to do it. But 15c Delta is pretty damn good for what you're running.


I'm definitely doing it, I want to improve my load temperatures, while the GPU's don't worry me (56ºC max on hottest card) the CPU does get hot while everything is stressed at 100% on Folding (78-80ºC).


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thank you KaRLiToS (I guess you're *Carlos*?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I should be recieving the XT360 before the weekend, if I get to drop the temperatures even just 5ºC I'd be more than happy.


My real name is Karl.







My last name is more on the Italian side though.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thank you KaRLiToS (I guess you're *Carlos*?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I should be recieving the XT360 before the weekend, if I get to drop the temperatures even just 5ºC I'd be more than happy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My real name is Karl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My last name is more on the Italian side though.
Click to expand...

Well, thanks Karl, let's hope that extra red helps me bring down delta temps at least 5ºC, I'd be more than happy with just a 5ºC improvement in my loop, that would mean the 3930k would stay WELL below 75ºC at rough times and the cards would stay below 50ºC with this heavy overclock.

If it's more than 5ºC, even better.









I'll be running it on pull with 3 Gentle Typhoon 1850 fans at like 1400rpm, I hope that's enough for that rad?


----------



## mr one

Maybe someone did a modification on *THIS* pump with soldering pins?








and have maybe some results to share?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> my Rig!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your pc is beautiful but I can't help but notice the fans which look like they have no static pressure at all. What are your temps liike?


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys I need a quick answer here...I have an MCP350 and am looking at purchasing two 240 radiators and cooling my CPU and GPU. Do I go for Alphacool ST30 or XSPC RS 240?
My CPU block is a Raystorm and my GPU block will be a Razor, if that makes a difference.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys I need a quick answer here...I have an MCP350 and am looking at purchasing two 240 radiators and cooling my CPU and GPU. Do I go for Alphacool ST30 or XSPC RS 240?
> My CPU block is a Raystorm and my GPU block will be a Razor, if that makes a difference.


Fans are what is most important deciding on a radiator. What fans will you be using. They should determine the rad you choose visa versa.


----------



## audioholic

I am open to any fans.. I was thinking AP15s because of how quiet they are.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys I need a quick answer here...I have an MCP350 and am looking at purchasing two 240 radiators and cooling my CPU and GPU. Do I go for Alphacool ST30 or XSPC RS 240?
> My CPU block is a Raystorm and my GPU block will be a Razor, if that makes a difference.


Are those the only two u can get? , as the ex240 is better than the rs240 and is the same profile,
And then just the highest static pressure fans u can afford, in the noise levels u can put up with


----------



## nleksan

Hey, kcuestag, what size tubing do you use? I happen to have a Bitspower 45deg dual-rotary compression fitting that I BELIEVE is 3/8x5/8 (I honestly don't know for sure), and if you need it to attach the second rad, it's yours...


----------



## audioholic

No I can get any radiator but need the slimmest profile. They will be going in a BF Prodigy and I need all the space I can get which is why I chose the 30mm radiators. All my fans will be going on a controller which is why I was looking at the AP15s. Once they get to a certain RPM I heard they were practically silent but still move a lot of air.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> No I can get any radiator but need the slimmest profile. They will be going in a BF Prodigy and I need all the space I can get which is why I chose the 30mm radiators. All my fans will be going on a controller which is why I was looking at the AP15s. Once they get to a certain RPM I heard they were practically silent but still move a lot of air.


I dont think AP15s are silent at all.
They move alot of air for the noise they produce but they are NOT silent.
Also they are more silent when fitted vertical then horizontal.

Even running them at say 800rpm give's an anoying humming sound from the fan.

If you really want silent run some Enermax Cluster fans at 900rpm or Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition on about 1000rpm.
Alot more silent then AP15s, but they dont move as much air as the AP15s


----------



## JohnnyEars

I've got 7x AP-15's running at low speed with a controller and they are quiet - not silent... I am now thinking of changing to Corsair SP120 Quiet Editions in the pursuit of silence = will I hear much difference at the same speeds?


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Your pc is beautiful but I can't help but notice the fans which look like they have no static pressure at all. What are your temps liike?


stock in my CPU temps is 36 º Celsius and 34 degrees Celsius Vga, in games 41 º 44 º CPU and VGA!! remembering that here in Brazil this very hot this time of year. picture has more ins TechPowerUp!!

http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/3368.html


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *sate200* , I will always love your build. I really loved when you had your dual parallel Radiator at the back. Do you still have the Mora Radiator?
> 
> ^This
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With Dual Loops and your case...good luck. You can add the rad (EK CoolStream XT160) to your loop though.


hey man, thanks!! Now I'm rad rad's box with 3 plus 1 bass drum with reservoir! now it well chilled the VGA'S!!


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I've got 7x AP-15's running at low speed with a controller and they are quiet - not silent... I am now thinking of changing to Corsair SP120 Quiet Editions in the pursuit of silence = will I hear much difference at the same speeds?


The Corsair SP120 Quiet Editions wont be much more silent but they sound less anoying then the AP15s IMO.
Ap15s just have a wierd anoying noise no matter what rpm really.
If you really want silent go for Enermax Cluster fans, they cant be heared at all up to 900rpm, they dont move much air though, prolly not even half of what the AP15s do at same speed.


----------



## audioholic

Thanks for all the help!


----------



## kyismaster

Dude
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys I need a quick answer here...I have an MCP350 and am looking at purchasing two 240 radiators and cooling my CPU and GPU. Do I go for Alphacool ST30 or XSPC RS 240?
> My CPU block is a Raystorm and my GPU block will be a Razor, if that makes a difference.


dude i got a rs240 and ex240 for sale









Im looking to moving into a super thick 240 single rad


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> I dont think AP15s are silent at all.
> They move alot of air for the noise they produce but they are NOT silent.
> Also they are more silent when fitted vertical then horizontal.
> 
> Even running them at say 800rpm give's an anoying humming sound from the fan.
> 
> If you really want silent run some Enermax Cluster fans at 900rpm or Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition on about 1000rpm.
> Alot more silent then AP15s, but they dont move as much air as the AP15s


I agree. I had AP-15's on my first loop. They are great fans and do the job excellent but I am not a fan of the humm either. Maybe it's just my hearing range I dunno but I did not like it. Although fairly quiet I found the presence of the sound in my computer room overbearing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> stock in my CPU temps is 36 º Celsius and 34 degrees Celsius Vga, in games 41 º 44 º CPU and VGA!! remembering that here in Brazil this very hot this time of year. picture has more ins TechPowerUp!!
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/3368.html


Those are awesome temps especially in Brazil. Just like my Canada temps.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> hey man, thanks!! Now I'm rad rad's box with 3 plus 1 bass drum with reservoir! now it well chilled the VGA'S!!


Man when you got that much rad I guess the fan's don't matter all that much.

P.S. Is my assumption of the low static pressure wrong? I always thought wide bladed fans have higher static pressure while thin bladed fans like yours have lower pressure but move more air with silence.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I agree. I had AP-15's on my first loop. They are great fans and do the job excellent but I am not a fan of the humm either. Maybe it's just my hearing range I dunno but I did not like it. Although fairly quiet I found the presence of the sound in my computer room overbearing.
> Those are awesome temps especially in Brazil. Just like my Canada temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man when you got that much rad I guess the fan's don't matter all that much.
> 
> P.S. Is my assumption of the low static pressure wrong? I always thought wide bladed fans have higher static pressure while thin bladed fans like yours have lower pressure but move more air with silence.










but airplane turbines have small fins


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Dude
> dude i got a rs240 and ex240 for sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im looking to moving into a super thick 240 single rad


PM SENT!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Hey, kcuestag, what size tubing do you use? I happen to have a Bitspower 45deg dual-rotary compression fitting that I BELIEVE is 3/8x5/8 (I honestly don't know for sure), and if you need it to attach the second rad, it's yours...


My tubing size is 19/13mm which if I remember right is 1/2" 3/4 in american system, not 100% sure.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> My tubing size is 19/13mm which if I remember right is 1/2" 3/4 in american system, not 100% sure.


That is correct. 13mm x 19mm is the same as 1/2" x 3/4"


----------



## minicooper1

boys a solution for the condensation in my frozenq?


----------



## Hokies83

So what do ppl think about Frozen Q res?

I read reviews say they bust and they leak.. which is very bad for how much they cost...

Put damn that reactor core version 2 looks pretty cool.. even tho it is 150$ lol.


----------



## PaddieMayne

Heres mine...

*THE OUTSIDE COOLING

THE JOB SO FAR*











*NOW TO GET ON WITH THE COMPUTER SIDE OF THE SET UP, I WILL POST SOON.....*
*All tubing Fitted, Some more cosmetics then ready too run*




*More too come.*
*NOW ITS ALL FITTED UP AND RUNNING....*









*THESE TWO SHOW THE EXTERNAL TEMP WHERE THE RAD IS OUTSIDE THE HOUSE 4 to 5C... BUT OF COURSE IM NOW GETTING THE NA READING ON MY CORE TEMPS WITH HW AS THERE TOO COLD TOO READ LOL, BUT IN THE BIOS ITS IDLING AT 15C, NOW TO TRY STRETCHING THAT OC FROM 4.8ghz to 5ghz..*


*WOOOHOOOOO 5GHZ !!!*

*So i thought sod it just dial in 1.55v and 250MHZ Bus Freq and go for it and ......*




*Now to see how much i can reduce the voltage and still be stable.*


----------



## Canis-X

Fantastic!! What are you running in the loop to keep the fluid from freezing up on you when you turn the system off for a while?


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> So what do ppl think about Frozen Q res?
> 
> I read reviews say they bust and they leak.. which is very bad for how much they cost...
> 
> Put damn that reactor core version 2 looks pretty cool.. even tho it is 150$ lol.


my going very well I have the 250 version with propeller black and white. unfortunately I can not put additives mayhems due to condensation on the non-immersed


----------



## thethat

Here is the original old system that I had. I was not too happy with the layout of my loop.

Then I upgraded some things, and this was a somewhat progress build.





Cable and things are still a little over the place and what not, but I have been busy lately. Going to be sleeping most of my cables.

Also, the top tubing that goes from radiator across my board and into the dual bay, has been moved to the front of the radiator.


----------



## minicooper1

fantasti work!!


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaddieMayne*
> 
> Heres mine...
> 
> *THE OUTSIDE COOLING
> 
> THE JOB SO FAR*
> ....
> 
> *Now to see how much i can reduce the voltage and still be stable.*


Excellent Job









Still, perhaps you should consider about the dewpoint inside your room and more general, take care to avoid condensation, otherwise your very beautiful setup may end up becoming an aquarium


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaddieMayne*
> 
> Heres mine...
> 
> *THE OUTSIDE COOLING
> *


You will need to run a glycol coolant,one cold icy snap and that rad will be blown junk.
Ever considered a ground loop?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaddieMayne*
> 
> Heres mine...
> 
> *THE OUTSIDE COOLING
> 
> THE JOB SO FAR*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW TO GET ON WITH THE COMPUTER SIDE OF THE SET UP, I WILL POST SOON.....*
> *All tubing Fitted, Some more cosmetics then ready too run*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More too come.*
> *NOW ITS ALL FITTED UP AND RUNNING....*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THESE TWO SHOW THE EXTERNAL TEMP WHERE THE RAD IS OUTSIDE THE HOUSE 4 to 5C... BUT OF COURSE IM NOW GETTING THE NA READING ON MY CORE TEMPS WITH HW AS THERE TOO COLD TOO READ LOL, BUT IN THE BIOS ITS IDLING AT 15C, NOW TO TRY STRETCHING THAT OC FROM 4.8ghz to 5ghz..*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WOOOHOOOOO 5GHZ !!!*
> 
> *So i thought sod it just dial in 1.55v and 250MHZ Bus Freq and go for it and ......*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Now to see how much i can reduce the voltage and still be stable.*


i can already see that you will have a fun time selling the house some day







("Oh sure mam, like every house it comes ready for external PC water cooling through the walls. what else could it be for?")

i really love the clean look and the simplistic aspect of your rig


----------



## PaddieMayne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will need to run a glycol coolant,one cold icy snap and that rad will be blown junk.
> Ever considered a ground loop?


Already running a minus 20c mix, here in the North of England we only get those kind of temps every 20 years lol, also the rig runs almost 24/7.


----------



## kkorky

And some people say that water cooling isn't an addiction .................................


----------



## Crooksy

2 questions.

1. Is it generally preferred to have a separate res and pump as I don't see them very often? Or is this purely preference and knowing that they can change the res without having to change the pump at the same time?

2. How does this loop order sound to you, for my 800D. -

RES - PUMP - GPU - RAD - CPU - RES


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> 2 questions.
> 
> 1. Is it generally preferred to have a separate res and pump as I don't see them very often? Or is this purely preference and knowing that they can change the res without having to change the pump at the same time?
> 
> 2. How does this loop order sound to you, for my 800D. -
> 
> RES - PUMP - GPU - RAD - CPU - RES


You are always better to have a separate res and pump. Typically, you want the best pump possible like the Swiftech MCP 655 or such. Having them separate is a bit more costly but nicer and more options. Personally, I don't care for the combos at all, but that's not to say you can't use them if you really want to.

For the loop order, you should always make sure your res is supplying the pump with fluid and put the pump and res together in order. You should be good with what you have, otherwise the loop order doesn't matter that much for cooling.


----------



## RKTGX95

could anyone tell me when should one start to consider going dual loops if at all? (except the possible aesthetics)


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> 2 questions.
> 
> 1. Is it generally preferred to have a separate res and pump as I don't see them very often? Or is this purely preference and knowing that they can change the res without having to change the pump at the same time?
> 
> 2. How does this loop order sound to you, for my 800D. -
> 
> RES - PUMP - GPU - RAD - CPU - RES
> 
> 
> 
> You are always better to have a separate res and pump. Typically, you want the best pump possible like the Swiftech MCP 655 or such. Having them separate is a bit more costly but nicer and more options. Personally, I don't care for the combos at all, but that's not to say you can't use them if you really want to.
> 
> For the loop order, you should always make sure your res is supplying the pump with fluid and put the pump and res together in order. You should be good with what you have, otherwise the loop order doesn't matter that much for cooling.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I thought that might have been why people tend to get them separately. Thanks for clearing that up and checking my loop order for me. Glad that I got that bit out of the way!


----------



## LayerCakes

I've got two GTX 670's as shown with EK's link system.

For some reason, my top card runs at 32°C idle and the other idles at 72°C.

Any ideas?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I've got two GTX 670's as shown with EK's link system.
> 
> For some reason, my top card runs at 32°C idle and the other idles at 72°C.
> 
> Any ideas?


might be something wrong with the inlet/outlet of the card/cards. is it serial bridge or parallel ? where's the inlet and outlet on the bridge?

or possibly a glitch with the certain program you use to measure your GPU temps. try another one.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> might be something wrong with the inlet/outlet of the card/cards. is it serial bridge or parallel ? where's the inlet and outlet on the bridge?
> 
> or possibly a glitch with the certain program you use to measure your GPU temps. try another one.


Its a serial bridge, and I've used both CPU iD HW momitor and MSI afterburner.

The inlet is on the right hand side and the outlet is pointing towards the top of the case.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> And some people say that water cooling isn't an addiction .................................


Not an addiction, just a very very intense hobby.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> 2 questions.
> 
> 1. Is it generally preferred to have a separate res and pump as I don't see them very often? Or is this purely preference and knowing that they can change the res without having to change the pump at the same time?
> 
> 2. How does this loop order sound to you, for my 800D. -
> 
> RES - PUMP - GPU - RAD - CPU - RES


I have found it easier to get air out of the line with seperate. That way when filling, air doesn't suck right in to the pump.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> could anyone tell me when should one start to consider going dual loops if at all? (except the possible aesthetics)


I would only go dual loop if my dual pump line was not handling my set up. But three mcp655(what I have) might sound like a tracker next to me.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Its a serial bridge, and I've used both CPU iD HW momitor and MSI afterburner.
> 
> The inlet is on the right hand side and the outlet is pointing towards the top of the case.


i guess your setup is like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






(ignore the top card for now in the tri setup)



maybe though it's a different problem. (possibly contact problem or something. try to re-seat the block on the card)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> I would only go dual loop if my dual pump line was not handling my set up. But three mcp655(what I have) might sound like a tracker next to me.


so essentially dual pump (both 655 and 35x) setups should handle most cases in a single right?


----------



## Crooksy

Am I correct in thinking that I still need regular compression fittings to attach to angled fittings?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Am I correct in thinking that I still need regular compression fittings to attach to angled fittings?


No you are not!

An angled fitting is a compression fitting, but just angled!


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> so essentially dual pump (both 655 and 35x) setups should handle most cases in a single right?


Depends on how much restriction there is.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Am I correct in thinking that I still need regular compression fittings to attach to angled fittings?


not necessarily. might look prettier but as long as the angle fitting is a G1/4 adapter in an angle anything with G1/4 should work just as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Depends on how much restriction there is.


not that i'm talking about quad GPU setup with 2 RAM blocks and MoBo VRM + Chipset that it would need that much. only considering as the max dual GPU, CPU maybe one RAM block (for now, who knows how far OCN can influence me







) and of course the rads for that which according to Martin's tests rads are the last thing to worry about on restriction. starting though to doubt if i should include the ASUS M5F stock block (the one that comes on the board with the 3/8' barbs) or get MIPS/EK block to replace that since many say it's restrictive or just forget about it completely.


----------



## LayerCakes

Just reseated the block but minus the back plate. I'll refill and retest tomorrow.

And yes, my flow is like that.


----------



## Dhalgren65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Am I correct in thinking that I still need regular compression fittings to attach to angled fittings?


You can use barbs as well-anything with matching threads to terminate angle/attach to tubing(or whatever)


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Its a serial bridge, and I've used both CPU iD HW momitor and MSI afterburner.
> 
> The inlet is on the right hand side and the outlet is pointing towards the top of the case.


Have you touched the card to verify that the 70C reading is accurate? Is it much hotter than the bottom card to the touch?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> Have you touched the card to verify that the 70C reading is accurate? Is it much hotter than the bottom card to the touch?


The water block was completely cold, so it may be a contract issue? I don't know for the back of the card as I can't get my hand down there. :/


----------



## Johnny Utah

Yeah mostly likely a contact issue then. I don't see any way a GPU under a full cover block would get that hot unless you're running your entire loop on a 120 rad. lol

I hope the re-mount works out for you. Draining and re-filling over and over again isn't fun.


----------



## Crooksy

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=14042&cat=2312&page=1

Those were the angled fittings that I was looking at getting, so you're saying that I don't need another fitting connected to these?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> Yeah mostly likely a contact issue then. I don't see any way a GPU under a full cover block would get that hot unless you're running your entire loop on a 120 rad. lol
> 
> I hope the re-mount works out for you. Draining and re-filling over and over again isn't fun.


When I drained I forgot to clean out my bucket. Damn! That's ruined that coolant!

Filling my loop is a nightmare. I seriously regret getting my 95mm micro res.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=14042&cat=2312&page=1
> 
> Those were the angled fittings that I was looking at getting, so you're saying that I don't need another fitting connected to these?


For those you'd need another fitting connected. Although there are 45º angled compression fittings out there which wouldn't require that extra fitting.









On another side, I need suggestions for my build:



I want to make it look a bit more clean, I was considering placing the D5 pump in the DVD drive bays, but then I wasn't sure if I'd be better by doing pump to GPU's or to keep the current loop of Pump to rad to CPU to GPU's and back to reservoir.

What are your thoughts? If it matters, I want my CPU to stay as cool as possible although considering how fast water travels, does the loop order really matter?


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=14042&cat=2312&page=1
> 
> Those were the angled fittings that I was looking at getting, so you're saying that I don't need another fitting connected to these?
> 
> 
> 
> For those you'd need another fitting connected. Although there are 45º angled compression fittings out there which wouldn't require that extra fitting.
Click to expand...

I can't seem to find any EK ones in the style that I already posted. I suppose I will just have to go with what I was planning on doing.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those you'd need another fitting connected. Although there are 45º angled compression fittings out there which wouldn't require that extra fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another side, I need suggestions for my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make it look a bit more clean, I was considering placing the D5 pump in the DVD drive bays, but then I wasn't sure if I'd be better by doing pump to GPU's or to keep the current loop of Pump to rad to CPU to GPU's and back to reservoir.
> 
> What are your thoughts? If it matters, I want my CPU to stay as cool as possible although considering how fast water travels, does the loop order really matter?


How about you stop changing/updating?







It looks fine the way it is! If you MUST change something, I would go with a bay reservoir, remove one of the 5.25in bays (with dremmel) and switch the radiator around. Just my suggestion!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## EnticingSausage

Can I cut off the tach wire on my D5 Vario? I'm guessing yes but I'd rather ask then end up with a dead pump


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those you'd need another fitting connected. Although there are 45º angled compression fittings out there which wouldn't require that extra fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another side, I need suggestions for my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make it look a bit more clean, I was considering placing the D5 pump in the DVD drive bays, but then I wasn't sure if I'd be better by doing pump to GPU's or to keep the current loop of Pump to rad to CPU to GPU's and back to reservoir.
> 
> What are your thoughts? If it matters, I want my CPU to stay as cool as possible although considering how fast water travels, does the loop order really matter?
> 
> 
> 
> How about you stop changing/updating?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks fine the way it is! If you MUST change something, I would go with a bay reservoir, remove one of the 5.25in bays (with dremmel) and switch the radiator around. Just my suggestion!
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

You are right, I always feel the need to change something.









A bay reservoir is something I will buy once I have some money in a couple of weeks, but I won't be modding the case, cutting the bays is a no go.

Also, what kind of bay reservoirs would you recommend for a single loop?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those you'd need another fitting connected. Although there are 45º angled compression fittings out there which wouldn't require that extra fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another side, I need suggestions for my build:
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make it look a bit more clean, I was considering placing the D5 pump in the DVD drive bays, but then I wasn't sure if I'd be better by doing pump to GPU's or to keep the current loop of Pump to rad to CPU to GPU's and back to reservoir.
> 
> What are your thoughts? If it matters, I want my CPU to stay as cool as possible although considering how fast water travels, does the loop order really matter?


turn off the flash :v


----------



## kcuestag

No flash, it's the light from the window.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those you'd need another fitting connected. Although there are 45º angled compression fittings out there which wouldn't require that extra fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another side, I need suggestions for my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make it look a bit more clean, I was considering placing the D5 pump in the DVD drive bays, but then I wasn't sure if I'd be better by doing pump to GPU's or to keep the current loop of Pump to rad to CPU to GPU's and back to reservoir.
> 
> What are your thoughts? If it matters, I want my CPU to stay as cool as possible although considering how fast water travels, does the loop order really matter?


If you do move the pump into the drive bays, i would try to move the HDDs up so the pump is not over them. Better safe then sorry i say. you build looks good as is, but i am the same way with mine. i look at it everyday when and say to myself "what can i do next". maybe thats why my wife says i am obessed with my computer. she's just jealous. I tell her " don't be a hater".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> Can I cut off the tach wire on my D5 Vario? I'm guessing yes but I'd rather ask then end up with a dead pump


remove the pin from the plug and try it out. Cutting is kind of perminate. that way you can push it back into the plug if you don't like it that way


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> No flash, it's the light from the window.


damn, your sun is bright LOL


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> damn, your sun is bright LOL


Better post pics when that new radiator comes in


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> My tubing size is 19/13mm which if I remember right is 1/2" 3/4 in american system, not 100% sure.


Ah, bummer :/

WELL... it just so happens I'm in a generous mood today, so if anyone here is running tubing compatible with, and IS IN NEED of, WHAT I BELIEVE TO BE a 3/8x5/8 Bitspower 45deg Dual-Rotary Compression Fitting, please PM me! If you're in the Conti US, and genuinely NEED the fitting (ie you don't already have 3821 fittings), I will send it to you!

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE!

I have some extra Swiftech TIM, and a number of other parts, so if you are struggling to get your loop together and GENUINELY NEED parts, please PM me! I have extra stuff that I don't need, and I'd like to GIVE it to a person/people who could/can GENUINELY BENEFIT from the parts









(I don't want to post this in the Freebies section, because there is nothing specific other than the mentioned fitting; I just want to help anyone who needs help!)


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those you'd need another fitting connected. Although there are 45º angled compression fittings out there which wouldn't require that extra fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another side, I need suggestions for my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make it look a bit more clean, I was considering placing the D5 pump in the DVD drive bays, but then I wasn't sure if I'd be better by doing pump to GPU's or to keep the current loop of Pump to rad to CPU to GPU's and back to reservoir.
> 
> What are your thoughts? If it matters, I want my CPU to stay as cool as possible although considering how fast water travels, does the loop order really matter?


It would look cleaner if you had a pump/res combo. A XSPC res and a D5 pump.







(crappy phone pics)


You can even do a stealth mod to keep the front clean.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those you'd need another fitting connected. Although there are 45º angled compression fittings out there which wouldn't require that extra fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another side, I need suggestions for my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make it look a bit more clean, I was considering placing the D5 pump in the DVD drive bays, but then I wasn't sure if I'd be better by doing pump to GPU's or to keep the current loop of Pump to rad to CPU to GPU's and back to reservoir.
> 
> What are your thoughts? If it matters, I want my CPU to stay as cool as possible although considering how fast water travels, does the loop order really matter?
> 
> 
> 
> It would look cleaner if you had a pump/res combo. A XSPC res and a D5 pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (crappy phone pics)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can even do a stealth mod to keep the front clean.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I already have a D5, what kind of XSPC reservoir would I need to install the D5 on it?









Also, what kind of lighting is that on the case, looks really nice.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Better post pics when that new radiator comes in


After I paint it - wink wink-


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I already have a D5, what kind of XSPC reservoir would I need to install the D5 on it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, what kind of lighting is that on the case, looks really nice.


I'm using THIS. But you can also use THIS. As for lights, im using NZXT Sleeved LED Kit. I'm using white, but it comes in various colors and the brightness settings can be changed from dim, med, and bright.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Like *mironccr345* said, a bay reservoir would really improve the room in your case







.

I also like those kit. I posted the first one but you can surg ebay to find the best price.

In my opinion, best LEd kit you can get. With remote control

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-SMD-RGB-5050-Waterproof-Strip-light-300-LED-44-Key-IR-Remote-12V-5A-power-/110965109806?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item19d609342e


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Like *mironccr345* said, a bay reservoir would really improve the room in your case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I also like those kit. I posted the first one but you can surg ebay to find the best price.
> 
> In my opinion, best LEd kit you can get. With remote control
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-SMD-RGB-5050-Waterproof-Strip-light-300-LED-44-Key-IR-Remote-12V-5A-power-/110965109806?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item19d609342e


I just won one for 13 dollars


----------



## LuckyNumber13

hey everyone i wanted some input on coolant
i was looking into getting Mayhems Pastel White UV Blue
only thing is that i have a frozenq liquid fusion (helix) 250mm
res. i am concerned that the pastel
white will be too opaque to see the helix or the helix
will look all blury and what not.
here are pics of the coolant w/ and w/o uv light on.
i could have swore i seen someone with frozenq helix
res and just pastel white but can't find the pic anymore.
anyways any input/opinions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> hey everyone i wanted some input on coolant
> i was looking into getting Mayhems Pastel White UV Blue
> only thing is that i have a frozenq liquid fusion (helix) 250mm
> res. i am concerned that the pastel
> white will be too opaque to see the helix or the helix
> will look all blury and what not.
> here are pics of the coolant w/ and w/o uv light on.
> i could have swore i seen someone with frozenq helix
> res and just pastel white but can't find the pic anymore.
> anyways any input/opinions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You won't be able to see the helix at all. The stuff is like milk lol.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Hokies83

LoL i now own all of WerMads Monsta Rads all his 360s and his 240 lol.


----------



## wermad

^^^ don't forget to hit the MM club. I got to wait a bit before I can buy my Monsta 480s







. Have fun with these beasts!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaddieMayne*
> 
> Heres mine...
> 
> *THE OUTSIDE COOLING
> 
> THE JOB SO FAR*
> 
> *Now to see how much i can reduce the voltage and still be stable.*


That is seriously one hell of a loop,
How can you keep up with the dust by doing outdoor loop?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You won't be able to see the helix at all. The stuff is like milk lol.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Do you think if I use red clear coolant, the frozenq res still can show up the lighting?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Do you think if I use red clear coolant, the frozenq res still can show up the lighting?


There was a guy that posted a few pages back and he had some redish fluid and a helix res. It was tough to see... I think helix reservoirs are made for just water.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## PaddieMayne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> That is seriously one hell of a loop,
> How can you keep up with the dust by doing outdoor loop?
> Do you think if I use red clear coolant, the frozenq res still can show up the lighting?


SIMPLE, DUST FILTERS.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A quick question for the Aqualis D5 owners.
What the total length of the res and pump top including the D5?
Looking to use 2 of the big 800ml res and need to know the length in total before ordering up,once i have the small res measurement I can extrapolate the rest


----------



## PinzaC55

Another shot of my new setup


----------



## Crooksy

Will the Corsair SP120 Performance fans work will with a EK 360XTX?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Another shot of my new setup


nice pic








The Phobya fans do look beautiful from that angle. (now i'm convinced to get these)

only problem might be how well do they control on voltage (3 pin) fan controller.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> It would look cleaner if you had a pump/res combo. A XSPC res and a D5 pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (crappy phone pics)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can even do a stealth mod to keep the front clean.


The rare great white RV02! Let me come over to snap some pics of it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Will the Corsair SP120 Performance fans work will with a EK 360XTX?


Yes,very well.


----------



## OverClocker55

Good cheap 1155 cpu block. Name it! Under $100 please and more like $50


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Will the Corsair SP120 Performance fans work will with a EK 360XTX?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes,very well.
Click to expand...

Sorry for my error, I meant well*. Damn typing on phones.

Thanks for confirming that for me. I'll grab 4 more of these for push pull.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> nice pic
> The Phobya fans do look beautiful from that angle. (now i'm convinced to get these)
> 
> only problem might be how well do they control on voltage (3 pin) fan controller.


They control very well from a fan controller but I have these 3 connected to the CPU header by a Phobya splitter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330844753534?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
The only negative thing I would have to say is that one of them had a slight tendency to stick when I was using it (vertically) as a rear exhaust fan, so in this new setup I made it the centre one so as to be easily accessible if it needed to be replaced. Its just occurred to me that you can get reducing plates so I might be able to get a 140 - 120 plate to allow me to install a Phobya fan as the rear exhaust in this case.


----------



## Crooksy

I have a couple of questions.

Firstly, does the Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing have any issues with plasticizer?

Secondly, for you guys with push/pull on your 240mm/360mm/480mm radiators, how are you taking care of powering the fans, a specific type of adapter that you'd recommend using at all?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The rare great white RV02! Let me come over to snap some pics of it.


C'mon! Let me borrow that DSLR.


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Good cheap 1155 cpu block. Name it! Under $100 please and more like $50


Danger den m6. eBay is your friend


----------



## kcuestag

Would 3 AP-15 fans on pull mode be enough for an EK CoolStream XT360? That's what I will be using to add to my loop, can't afford more fans at the moment.









First I'll try adding the rad to this loop, if temps don't improve by much I'll just do 2 loops. Also, an XSPC Bay reservoir as *mironccr345* suggested is in my wish list for my next purchase.









However, is it compatible with ALL the D5's? I have a D5 Vario (Can't tell which re-brand exactly) with an EK X-TOP v2, I don't have any original accessories or anything, I bought it as it is in my sig rig, so I hope it's compatible with that XSPC bay reservoir.

What about the flow/pressure, would it be a lot worse on that XSPC reservoir compared to the EK X-TOP v2?


----------



## Tarnix

Would that be a reason to use a water loop with universal blocks?








(Currently on air/H80)

18 to 23C ambient under 5 minutes... (approx)

On the bright side, Antec TruePower 650W for vishera OC + GTX260+560+660 (all OC), running strong. I'm amazed.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Would 3 AP-15 fans on pull mode be enough for an EK CoolStream XT360? That's what I will be using to add to my loop, can't afford more fans at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I'll try adding the rad to this loop, if temps don't improve by much I'll just do 2 loops. Also, an XSPC Bay reservoir as *mironccr345* suggested is in my wish list for my next purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, is it compatible with ALL the D5's? I have a D5 Vario (Can't tell which re-brand exactly) with an EK X-TOP v2, I don't have any original accessories or anything, I bought it as it is in my sig rig, so I hope it's compatible with that XSPC bay reservoir.
> 
> What about the flow/pressure, would it be a lot worse on that XSPC reservoir compared to the EK X-TOP v2?


Personally, I would ditch the whole idea to run an external rad. That 540 should be plenty for your loop, and it would look a lot cleaner just running the single rad. I would focus on cleaning up your current loop, by running a bay res/pump combo as mironccr has suggested, and using the funds you we're going to spend on that 360 rad towards maybe sleeving the PSU? Or getting extensions? Would be much cleaner IMO


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Would 3 AP-15 fans on pull mode be enough for an EK CoolStream XT360? That's what I will be using to add to my loop, can't afford more fans at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I'll try adding the rad to this loop, if temps don't improve by much I'll just do 2 loops. Also, an XSPC Bay reservoir as *mironccr345* suggested is in my wish list for my next purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, is it compatible with ALL the D5's? I have a D5 Vario (Can't tell which re-brand exactly) with an EK X-TOP v2, I don't have any original accessories or anything, I bought it as it is in my sig rig, so I hope it's compatible with that XSPC bay reservoir.
> 
> What about the flow/pressure, would it be a lot worse on that XSPC reservoir compared to the EK X-TOP v2?


That res would take the place of the x-top. I own both an x-top and that bayres combo, you would need to take the top off, just the bare pump goes in, it has its own top of sorts built into it.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Personally, I would ditch the whole idea to run an external rad. That 540 should be plenty for your loop, and it would look a lot cleaner just running the single rad. I would focus on cleaning up your current loop, by running a bay res/pump combo as mironccr has suggested, and using the funds you we're going to spend on that 360 rad towards maybe sleeving the PSU? Or getting extensions? Would be much cleaner IMO


The EK CoolStream XT360 I'm getting is for free. The 540mm might look like it's plenty for my loop, but with everything under 100% load ([email protected]), my GPU's hit as high as 55-56ºC and the CPU hits as high as 76-77ºC at 4.5GHz 1.36v.









That's why I was considering either installing that rad on the same loop, or doing two different loops to improve the CPU temperatures.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> That res would take the place of the x-top. I own both an x-top and that bayres combo, you would need to take the top off, just the bare pump goes in, it has its own top of sorts built into it.


Thanks. How does the in-built "top" from that reservoir behave against the EK top?


----------



## Knight26

I thought I would post some pics of my pieced together rig and get added to the list. I squeezed everything into a Corsair C70 case without modding any part of the case. No holes drilled or panels cut. I have an EK Cool Stream XT 240 mounted vertically in the front and it lines up with the holes for the top fan mount. The rad in the back is an EK Cool Stream XT 120 with a Cougar Vortex PMW fan.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The EK CoolStream XT360 I'm getting is for free. The 540mm might look like it's plenty for my loop, but with everything under 100% load ([email protected]), my GPU's hit as high as 55-56ºC and the CPU hits as high as 76-77ºC at 4.5GHz 1.36v.


Shew! Those CPU temps are creeping up for sure...high ambient?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's why I was considering either installing that rad on the same loop, or doing two different loops to improve the CPU temperatures.
> Thanks. How does the in-built "top" from that reservoir behave against the EK top?


If you're referring to hydraulic performance, I think the EK top would be higher....but overall the difference is negligible.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The EK CoolStream XT360 I'm getting is for free. The 540mm might look like it's plenty for my loop, but with everything under 100% load ([email protected]), my GPU's hit as high as 55-56ºC and the CPU hits as high as 76-77ºC at 4.5GHz 1.36v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I was considering either installing that rad on the same loop, or doing two different loops to improve the CPU temperatures.
> Thanks. How does the in-built "top" from that reservoir behave against the EK top?


It's because of the fans, not the lack of radiator space. You have PLENTY of radiator space for your loop, it's because of the lack of fans for 180MM that is the problem. If you check out *this* link those are the best 180MM fans I think, at least they have the fastest RPM. However, bigger RPM doesn't necessarily mean that it would work.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The EK CoolStream XT360 I'm getting is for free. The 540mm might look like it's plenty for my loop, but with everything under 100% load ([email protected]), my GPU's hit as high as 55-56ºC and the CPU hits as high as 76-77ºC at 4.5GHz 1.36v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I was considering either installing that rad on the same loop, or doing two different loops to improve the CPU temperatures.
> Thanks. How does the in-built "top" from that reservoir behave against the EK top?


Believe it or not, the xspc built in top performs slightly better, I know martin's did a top shoot-out at some point, but I can't find it atm.

Edit: It was skinnee, and the xspc bay res wasn't in there, I know for fact that it performs head and shoulders above the koolance dual loop version, rp-452x2. Either way, probably negligable.


----------



## Bucshman

I can finally post my pictures in here.

I do have some questions, I have my drain line coming off my reservoir to a drain plug on the bottom of the case. I filled the loop with Primochill sysprep and ran it for a 24 hour/leak test, drained it and refilled it with Distilled and Liquid Utopia but the drain line is empty, like there is an air bubble stuck in it. Is this normal? Did I do something wrong? Should I try to get rid of it or leave it alone?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> I can finally post my pictures in here.
> I do have some questions, I have my drain line coming off my reservoir to a drain plug on the bottom of the case. I filled the loop with Primochill sysprep and ran it for a 24 hour/leak test, drained it and refilled it with Distilled and Liquid Utopia but the drain line is empty, like there is an air bubble stuck in it. Is this normal? Did I do something wrong? Should I try to get rid of it or leave it alone?


Try shake the case and maybe leave the fill port on the res open abit while leak testing?


----------



## Bucshman

I have the top off now, and it blows my mind that the whole line is empty.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> I have the top off now, and it blows my mind that the whole line is empty.


I have my drain line coming off a spare outlet on my pump and it sometimes will stay empty when filling my loop. Just moving it around a little normally gets the water to start flowing into it. Or loosen the plug on the end a little to let the air escape so water can flow into it


----------



## Stige

Got some temp problems myself, getting pretty much equal or higher temps that I did with my TrueSpirit.

System is bled, not a single air bubble in it, order is Reservoir->Pump->Rad->CPU->Reservoir, flow is good.

Any tips on what I should try? Re-seated the CPU block three times now, going for fourth ->


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> They control very well from a fan controller but I have these 3 connected to the CPU header by a Phobya splitter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330844753534?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> The only negative thing I would have to say is that one of them had a slight tendency to stick when I was using it (vertically) as a rear exhaust fan, so in this new setup I made it the centre one so as to be easily accessible if it needed to be replaced. Its just occurred to me that you can get reducing plates so I might be able to get a 140 - 120 plate to allow me to install a Phobya fan as the rear exhaust in this case.


well, now it's great that they behave well under voltage control. it's quite funny that there is a tick when it is placed vertically, since usually the problem with fans is the opposite. i was thinking of getting some kind of red bladed fan for the exhaust (to have only the Phobya 2G Nano as LED effect with some LEDs on the CPU block) or the Corsair AF fan. any recommendations for that?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> I can finally post my pictures in here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have some questions, I have my drain line coming off my reservoir to a drain plug on the bottom of the case. I filled the loop with Primochill sysprep and ran it for a 24 hour/leak test, drained it and refilled it with Distilled and Liquid Utopia but the drain line is empty, like there is an air bubble stuck in it. Is this normal? Did I do something wrong? Should I try to get rid of it or leave it alone?


Great loop, love how well the lighting accents it.
i have no idea on your problem though, but it does sound like an air bubble or something. have you tried tilting the case? (or maybe its an air lock if the res fill port is closed)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight26*
> 
> I thought I would post some pics of my pieced together rig and get added to the list. I squeezed everything into a Corsair C70 case without modding any part of the case. No holes drilled or panels cut. I have an EK Cool Stream XT 240 mounted vertically in the front and it lines up with the holes for the top fan mount. The rad in the back is an EK Cool Stream XT 120 with a Cougar Vortex PMW fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


another fellow C70 owner who got his case to the deep water








was it difficult to get that rad in the front? (or any problems with leaking because of the barb end being on the bottom? or anything else?)
and what is that on the bottom ODD slot? (and where are your HDDs / SSDs?)

any idea of what would be recommended for the C70 for a bottom rad options? either a 240 (which as i can see could be as thick as a monsta) rad as Knight26's or add a 120 rad to that on the bottom. or a bottom (horizontal) 240 rad and a front rad on the top front fan (which also could be thick) or anything else?


----------



## Crooksy

I have a couple of questions.

Firstly, does the Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing have any issues with plasticizer?

Secondly, for you guys with push/pull on your 240mm/360mm/480mm radiators, how are you taking care of powering the fans, a specific type of adapter that you'd recommend using at all?


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I have a couple of questions.
> 
> Firstly, does the Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing have any issues with plasticizer?
> 
> Secondly, for you guys with push/pull on your 240mm/360mm/480mm radiators, how are you taking care of powering the fans, a specific type of adapter that you'd recommend using at all?


Supposedly not.

Lamptron anything almost for the fans.









Personally using the FC6 and it's been great.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I have a couple of questions.
> 
> Firstly, does the Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing have any issues with plasticizer?
> 
> Secondly, for you guys with push/pull on your 240mm/360mm/480mm radiators, how are you taking care of powering the fans, a specific type of adapter that you'd recommend using at all?
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly not.
> 
> Lamptron anything almost for the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally using the FC6 and it's been great.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link to the nice controller, what about actually routing the cables there, are you just using extensions?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Thanks for the link to the nice controller, what about actually routing the cables there, are you just using extensions?


My Lamptron Fan Controller Touch came with 6 fan extension cables. Probably about a foot each. I'd expect the same for other Lamptron controllers as well


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Thanks for the link to the nice controller, what about actually routing the cables there, are you just using extensions?
> 
> 
> 
> My Lamptron Fan Controller Touch came with 6 fan extension cables. Probably about a foot each. I'd expect the same for other Lamptron controllers as well
Click to expand...

Oh cool, thanks for the help with that!


----------



## mr one

Ummm stuck again with loop configuration







maybe someone could help me out and draw something simple?







im gonna use apogee drive ( that actualy gonna come earlier than main parts of the rig







), 240mm on top of case and res outside of case


----------



## CiBi

Does anyone know if this fancontroller is any good?

Scythe Q 12


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Supposedly not.
> 
> Lamptron anything almost for the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally using the FC6 and it's been great.


Excuse the OT .

This is not a personal dig at you, but actually Primochill Pro LRT has had the largest amount of negative feedback when it comes to plasticizer issues.

Sure there are exceptions to the rule, but all one has to do is have a look at the plasticizer thread to verify what i have said


----------



## PinzaC55

I have the Lamptron FC5 V2 and generally it is excellent - nice long cables, all braided black BUT the included Molex connector is junk - it is loose and makes bad connections, plus the knobs are loose and come off the underlying knobs with the slightest pull.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I have the Lamptron FC5 V2 and generally it is excellent - nice long cables, all braided black BUT the included Molex connector is junk - it is loose and makes bad connections, plus the knobs are loose and come off the underlying knobs with the slightest pull.


Same with scythe one that fits in the 3,5 bay


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> well, now it's great that they behave well under voltage control. it's quite funny that there is a tick when it is placed vertically, since usually the problem with fans is the opposite. i was thinking of getting some kind of red bladed fan for the exhaust (to have only the Phobya 2G Nano as LED effect with some LEDs on the CPU block) or the Corsair AF fan. any recommendations for that?
> Great loop, love how well the lighting accents it.


I have been doing a bit of Googling and this seems to be the best option http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400386225391?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 It has a very high CFM and the only difference between it and the Phobya 2G is that it doesn't have alternate black blades and the surround is semi - transparent. But it looks like a good match otherwise. Knowing my my luck though Phobya will announce a 140 Nano 2G just after I buy it.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Does anyone know if this fancontroller is any good?
> 
> Scythe Q 12


I am using one of these currently. It works fine for me, but I only have two fans per channel. I don't use all the channels. I might get worried if I used all the channels and was close to the channel capacity. I will upgrade it soon. It was cheap (under 30 usd) so I lived with it for now. I had to paint mine black since the silver was all that was in stock at the time.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Shew! Those CPU temps are creeping up for sure...high ambient?
> If you're referring to hydraulic performance, I think the EK top would be higher....but overall the difference is negligible.


Ambients are normal, about 22-25ºC all the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It's because of the fans, not the lack of radiator space. You have PLENTY of radiator space for your loop, it's because of the lack of fans for 180MM that is the problem. If you check out *this* link those are the best 180MM fans I think, at least they have the fastest RPM. However, bigger RPM doesn't necessarily mean that it would work.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I'm not willing to get faster fans mainly because I care a lot about having a quiet computer.









I'll just add that extra RAD outside the case and see if it helps, if it doesn't improve by much I'll just stick to 2 different loops for the GPU's and the CPU.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> I am using one of these currently. It works fine for me, but I only have two fans per channel. I don't use all the channels. I might get worried if I used all the channels and was close to the channel capacity. I will upgrade it soon. It was cheap (under 30 usd) so I lived with it for now. I had to paint mine black since the silver was all that was in stock at the time.


I got a black one for 35$ (everything is more expensive in europe). I'll connect +- 10 fans each on a different channel so that shouldn't be a problem IMO


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Thanks for the link to the nice controller, what about actually routing the cables there, are you just using extensions?


First, I HIGHLY recommend the BitFenix Hydra Pro fan controller! It is absolutely worth every penny, and it's also quite a few pennies less than many other fan controllers!

HERE'S A LINK

Some quick BitFenix Hydra Pro specs:
- 5 Channels
- 30W per Channel
- Sliders for Adjusting Speeds (no ugly dials/knobs)
- Controls LEDs in any BitFenix Spectre (Spectre, Spectre Pro, Spectre Pro PWM, Spectre PWM) fans, increasing brightness in sync with fan speed
- Also has button allowing you to turn off fan LEDs
- Any unused Cables can be removed and stored elsewhere for later use

I run 6x 140mm Bgears Blasters in P/P on EX420, and 4x Koolance 120x25 2600rpm high-pressure fans P/P on UT60 240. I have Channel 1 controlling the 3 Push fans for the EX420, Channel 2 controlling the 3 Pull Fans, and Channel 3 controlling ALL FOUR of the UT60 fans!
I still have two channels left, and I will use them when I am finally able to get some BitFenix Spectre PRO PWM 140mm fans (White w White LEDs) for use as Case Fans.

For controlling multiple fans on one channel, I am using the BitFenix Alchemy 1x3pin-to-3x3pin Sleeved Fan Splitters as well as a Phobya 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Sleeved Fan Splitter.

HERE is the BitFenix Fan Splitter (available in any color you want)
I really like them, the sleeving is the best I've seen on "pre-sleeved but not custom" cables, using actual fabric sleeving; the heatshrink is very even on the smaller cables, and the larger cables (ie 24pin, 4pin, 8pin, PCIe, MOLEX, etc) are done WITHOUT Heatshrink!! Here is the LINK to the main page of the sleeved cables from them; awesome stuff for great prices, really! (and no, I don't work for them, own stock in them or anything else, I'm just THAT impressed)
I've tried NZXT, ModSmart, Kobra, ModRight, MaxFinder, Corsair, and other pre-sleeved cables, and I can honestly say that BitFenix Alchemy are the best!

HERE is the Phobya Fan Splitter (available in a few different colors).
It's decent quality, the sleeving is basically "improved Tech-Flex" but you can't see the wiring underneath, it's just stiff. However, very easy to tuck into a corner and out of the way!
Also available in:

1x3pin-to-3x3pin

1x3pin-to-6x3pin

1x3pin-to-9x3pin


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Thanks for the link to the nice controller, what about actually routing the cables there, are you just using extensions?
> 
> 
> 
> First, I HIGHLY recommend the BitFenix Hydra Pro fan controller! It is absolutely worth every penny, and it's also quite a few pennies less than many other fan controllers!
> 
> HERE'S A LINK
> 
> Some quick BitFenix Hydra Pro specs:
> - 5 Channels
> - 30W per Channel
> - Sliders for Adjusting Speeds (no ugly dials/knobs)
> - Controls LEDs in any BitFenix Spectre (Spectre, Spectre Pro, Spectre Pro PWM, Spectre PWM) fans, increasing brightness in sync with fan speed
> - Also has button allowing you to turn off fan LEDs
> - Any unused Cables can be removed and stored elsewhere for later use
> 
> I run 6x 140mm Bgears Blasters in P/P on EX420, and 4x Koolance 120x25 2600rpm high-pressure fans P/P on UT60 240. I have Channel 1 controlling the 3 Push fans for the EX420, Channel 2 controlling the 3 Pull Fans, and Channel 3 controlling ALL FOUR of the UT60 fans!
> I still have two channels left, and I will use them when I am finally able to get some BitFenix Spectre PRO PWM 140mm fans (White w White LEDs) for use as Case Fans.
> 
> For controlling multiple fans on one channel, I am using the BitFenix Alchemy 1x3pin-to-3x3pin Sleeved Fan Splitters as well as a Phobya 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Sleeved Fan Splitter.
> 
> HERE is the BitFenix Fan Splitter (available in any color you want)
> I really like them, the sleeving is the best I've seen on "pre-sleeved but not custom" cables, using actual fabric sleeving; the heatshrink is very even on the smaller cables, and the larger cables (ie 24pin, 4pin, 8pin, PCIe, MOLEX, etc) are done WITHOUT Heatshrink!! Here is the LINK to the main page of the sleeved cables from them; awesome stuff for great prices, really! (and no, I don't work for them, own stock in them or anything else, I'm just THAT impressed)
> I've tried NZXT, ModSmart, Kobra, ModRight, MaxFinder, Corsair, and other pre-sleeved cables, and I can honestly say that BitFenix Alchemy are the best!
> 
> HERE is the Phobya Fan Splitter (available in a few different colors).
> It's decent quality, the sleeving is basically "improved Tech-Flex" but you can't see the wiring underneath, it's just stiff. However, very easy to tuck into a corner and out of the way!
> Also available in:
> 
> 1x3pin-to-3x3pin
> 
> 1x3pin-to-6x3pin
> 
> 1x3pin-to-9x3pin
Click to expand...

Thanks for the plethora of information!

I think I am leaning more towards the Lamptron one though as it has a nice display and I think it will suit the build/case a little better than the one you have linked. I will certainly check it out just incase I change my mind!


----------



## Roder J

on the subject of fan controllers anythoughts on Aerocool? saw this and it fits with the theme on my sons rig; http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=29657


----------



## PinzaC55

I would just like to get a quick opinion. I used to use this Geil Evo RAM cooler in my old rig and I have tried it in my new one (see below) but I can't decide whether it adds to or detracts from the overall aesthetics of the build? It looks better with the case side on than "naked" but I am still not sure.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I would just like to get a quick opinion. I used to use this Geil Evo RAM cooler in my old rig and I have tried it in my new one (see below) but I can't decide whether it adds to or detracts from the overall aesthetics of the build? It looks better with the case side on than "naked" but I am still not sure.


In my opinion the ram cooler is a bit naff. It's like putting an LED gear stick on your Ferrari.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys, do you think 540mm worth of rad space is enough to cool down 2x GTX680 and i7 3930k @ 4.6GHz? While gaming the CPU never breaks above 70ºC and the GPU's never break above ~48ºC with a heavy overclock, this is with both cards at 99% usage. If I just run Prime 95 on the CPU and idle the cards it never reaches above 65ºC. In [email protected] however, since everything is at 100% usage, it does get a bit toasty, cards go as high as 56ºC on hot nights and CPU goes as high as 78ºC.
> 
> I did try adding an extra 120mm rad I had laying around, but it didn't really do anything, so I guess this 540mm rad is still more than enough for my loop?
> 
> PS: If it helps, my 3930k is a poor clocker, needs 1.4v for 4.6GHz, but I can't complain since I got it VERY cheap from a friend.


I think it's plenty. My first loop I had a 3930k at 4.5 1.32v and 2 680's overclocked all cooled with a RX360 rad. My CPU temps never rose above 70c and my gpu's were about 45c at full load, sometimes even lower depending on the game.

I now added a 480 monsta rad and a mobo block and my temps didn't really improve that much.

I think 540mm is plenty.


----------



## AlaskaFox

Guess its about time i posted mine here too
first water loop







Want to add some lights in there to make everything pop nicely, including the UV tubes


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> In my opinion the ram cooler is a bit naff. It's like putting an LED gear stick on your Ferrari.


Oh dear I was afraid of that. I'll have to sell it







or build a new computer


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Oh dear I was afraid of that. I'll have to sell it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or build a new computer


If you want your ram cooled and it to look classy, get it under water!


----------



## Tisca

What case is this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> I can finally post my pictures in here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have some questions, I have my drain line coming off my reservoir to a drain plug on the bottom of the case. I filled the loop with Primochill sysprep and ran it for a 24 hour/leak test, drained it and refilled it with Distilled and Liquid Utopia but the drain line is empty, like there is an air bubble stuck in it. Is this normal? Did I do something wrong? Should I try to get rid of it or leave it alone?


----------



## animal0307

Reinstalled my TIM today. Did I do it right?



PS this is my loop.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



EK Supreme LTX, XPSC 5870 Razor, D5 Vario, Magiccool 420, 5x P14's



PSS:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Oh my TIM is this and this was just the "burn in" to melt the TIM

PSSS



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



These are my real temps so far with ITB only. If I run Furmark on my 5870 1050 mhz @ 1.35v my temps don't budge.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Just because I could







Hope you enjoyed it.


----------



## HPE1000

oh god


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> What case is this?


It's a scratch built case http://www.overclock.net/t/1343479/acrylic-and-aluminum-scratch-build, I made it.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I think it's plenty. My first loop I had a 3930k at 4.5 1.32v and 2 680's overclocked all cooled with a RX360 rad. My CPU temps never rose above 70c and my gpu's were about 45c at full load, sometimes even lower depending on the game.
> 
> I now added a 480 monsta rad and a mobo block and my temps didn't really improve that much.
> 
> I think 540mm is plenty.


Well, gaming is not the same as [email protected] With games I don't see my CPU reach above 65ºC and the GPU's at like 46-48ºC with a very heavy overclock including modded BIOS for more voltage, Folding? That's another story.

I'll try adding that XT360 rad I'm getting see if it helps, if it doesn't do much I'll just do 2 different loops, the CPU runs a lot cooler when the GPU's are idling, so the ideal solution (But not aesthetically ideal for my case) would be 2 loops.


----------



## Knight26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> well, now it's great that they behave well under voltage control. it's quite funny that there is a tick when it is placed vertically, since usually the problem with fans is the opposite. i was thinking of getting some kind of red bladed fan for the exhaust (to have only the Phobya 2G Nano as LED effect with some LEDs on the CPU block) or the Corsair AF fan. any recommendations for that?
> Great loop, love how well the lighting accents it.
> i have no idea on your problem though, but it does sound like an air bubble or something. have you tried tilting the case? (or maybe its an air lock if the res fill port is closed)
> another fellow C70 owner who got his case to the deep water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was it difficult to get that rad in the front? (or any problems with leaking because of the barb end being on the bottom? or anything else?)
> and what is that on the bottom ODD slot? (and where are your HDDs / SSDs?)
> 
> any idea of what would be recommended for the C70 for a bottom rad options? either a 240 (which as i can see could be as thick as a monsta) rad as Knight26's or add a 120 rad to that on the bottom. or a bottom (horizontal) 240 rad and a front rad on the top front fan (which also could be thick) or anything else?


The cool stream 240 xt fits great in the front. Its 276 mm long and there's about 279 mm clearance. The top fan mount holes line up so it mounts securely. The black ice sr-1 was my other option for the front rad. It's 277 mm long. It should fit as well but i went with EK all the way through (except for a coupe alphacool 90 fittings and a koolance drain valve fitting) since i could get almost everything I needed in a kit from them. I didn't have any leaks. The rad doesn't touch the bottom of the case.

The black box is a hot swappable bay for 3.5" HDD with a WD drive in it. I have 2 SSD's in the bay above mounted on 5.25 to 2.5 adapter. I don't have a disc drive since I found that I rarely used it. I didn't go with a bottom mount 240 because it would be so tight against the PSU. Since it's modular, I would have to take the rad out if I needed to add or remove a power cable. I could've put a slim 240 or 280 in the top but i wanted to keep the light effect from the 2 140 mm blue led fans.


----------



## AceRuckus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> LoL i now own all of WerMads Monsta Rads all his 360s and his 240 lol.


this video is l33t! so old school haha. hope be joining this gallery in summer


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Reinstalled my TIM today. Did I do it right?
> 
> Oh my TIM is
> this
> and this was just the "burn in" to melt the TIM
> 
> PSSS
> 
> These are my real temps so far with ITB only. If I run Furmark on my 5870 1050 mhz @ 1.35v my temps don't budge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just because I could
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoyed it.


Your temps look great!!!


----------



## Bucshman

Well I have tried just about everything and the air is still in the drain line, not sure about this but I'm going to let it run overnight with the cap off the res and see if that helps. My coolant level is down about 1/4 inch from where I filled it so I think it is slowly filling in, but there may have been air somewhere else in the system as well.
I have another question in regards to temps, I know they are all different depending on all variables but are these okay or should I try to re-seat my block. I am running a 2500k 4.1 @ 1.264 vcore, ambient is around 22c, idle temps are 29,32,31,30c and load temps (2 hour prime95) 59,59,57,58c those seem okay but when gaming I hit 46,48,47,47c.
My 7870(stock speeds) idles at 29c and max at 36c, I'm super happy with that!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Reinstalled my TIM today. Did I do it right?
> Oh my TIM is
> this
> and this was just the "burn in" to melt the TIM
> PSSS
> These are my real temps so far with ITB only. If I run Furmark on my 5870 1050 mhz @ 1.35v my temps don't budge.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just because I could
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> 
> 
> Your temps look great!!!
Click to expand...

Really? I thought I would get lower temps. 70C just seems a bit high. Or maybe that was just me buying into the water cooling hype. But that is also my running Intel Burn Test and not Prime. Not sure what my prime temps are.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Really? I thought I would get lower temps. 70C just seems a bit high. Or maybe that was just me buying into the water cooling hype. But that is also my running Intel Burn Test and not Prime. Not sure what my prime temps are.


I cant really see, but is that at 4.7 even? If so I would expect to see lower temps. How much rad, what pump, what fan speed and configuration?

Edit:

Saw the picture you included and I would say that is about right for your setup. Certainly you could achieve lower temps with water cooling. Simply changing fans to 6 that cover the whole surface of the rad will be an improvement/place to start.


----------



## wermad

I max out ~65c running ibt @ 4.7. Surprisingly, when I had the RIVE and a new 3820, it clocked at 4.75 and loaded ~55-58c.....Interesting to know that LGA2011 is not as hot as they say, no, ?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I max out ~65c running ibt @ 4.7. Surprisingly, when I had the RIVE and a new 3820, it clocked at 4.75 and loaded ~55-58c.....Interesting to know that LGA2011 is not as hot as they say, no, ?


My 3770k with 1.5v at 5.1ghz maxes out at 65c with your old monsta 240 and a swifttech 240 with the Apongee drive 2 pump/block.

Wonder what it is gonna be with 3 more monsta 360s and another pump? eh?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> My 3770k with 1.5v at 5.1ghz maxes out at 65c with your old monsta 240 and a swifttech 240 with the Apongee drive 2 pump/block.


screen shots or it didn't happen








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Wonder what it is gonna be with 3 more monsta 360s and another pump? eh?


Pretty epic


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> screen shots or it didn't happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty epic


My chip is de lidded lol









Here is a screenie lmao..


----------



## Drake.L

Had an extra IKEA Dioder strip laying around so I threw it in my case.



Wished I had an actual camera to capture the shot


----------



## wermad

^^^I see a Monsta in there!


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^I see a Monsta in there!


Haha yup, RAWR!

I would like to add more radiators but at the same time, love a small case.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Your temps look great!!!


Actually, the variances across the cores look terrible . . .

Better to be a couple degrees higher and much closer, than all over the scale like that.

Hopefully, maybe they've all settled a bit after a few hours of run time

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I max out ~65c running ibt @ 4.7. Surprisingly, when I had the RIVE and a new 3820, it clocked at 4.75 and loaded ~55-58c.....Interesting to know that LGA2011 is not as hot as they say, no, ?


Keep in mind that the 3820 is a quad, not a hex core . . .

Don't expect the hex cores to match the 3820's temps

Darlene


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Knight26*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I would post some pics of my pieced together rig and get added to the list. I squeezed everything into a Corsair C70 case without modding any part of the case. No holes drilled or panels cut. I have an EK Cool Stream XT 240 mounted vertically in the front and it lines up with the holes for the top fan mount. The rad in the back is an EK Cool Stream XT 120 with a Cougar Vortex PMW fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Had an extra IKEA Dioder strip laying around so I threw it in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> Wished I had an actual camera to capture the shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Guys, You built an amazingly rig! Good Job!


----------



## SpecializedPro

Hello, have now managed to add 2nd Rad and fans to bottom of my 800D


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## YowZ

I'm assuming you plan to water cooling your GPUs as well SpecializedPro.
That's alot of radiator real estate for 1 CPU.


----------



## conwa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YowZ*
> 
> I'm assuming you plan to water cooling your GPUs as well SpecializedPro.
> That's alot of radiator real estate for 1 CPU.


+1

I think you can overclock that cpu in theory till 5ghz @ 50 degrees or something lol.


----------



## kcuestag

And that is why I need that extra XT360 rad installed, look at those temperatures while Folding, it's nuts, the CPU hit 80ºC and the hottest GPU has hit 61ºC tonight, with 3 AP-181 fans at ~960rpm on pull mode. I could put them at higher speed and drop a few degrees but I don't want more noise, hopefully the EK CoolStream XT360 helps a lot once installed outside the case, else I'm doing 2 loops, one for GPU's one for CPU.









Thoughts? Water Delta is more like 17-20ºC, not 15ºC as I said.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Turn up the fans,adding an extra rad will look not so good and that rad will need fans anyway so its lose lose.....


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> Hello, have now managed to add 2nd Rad and fans to bottom of my 800D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those 580's are begging to go under water!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Turn up the fans,adding an extra rad will look not so good and that rad will need fans anyway so its lose lose.....


Turning up the fans only helps around 2ºC, plus the fans I'll be using for the XT360 will be running at ~1200rpm, they're AP-15's which don't bother me at all until +1500RPM.

I know the extra rad will make my rig look less clean, but I really need to improve these temps.









It's either that, or doing 2 loops. First I will try by just adding that rad externally. Also my case temps are nuts when Folding (40-42ºC) and one of my hard drives (Caviar Black 750GB) is hitting 53ºC which is dangerous, I really need to lower the water temperature when Folding.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Turning up the fans only helps around 2ºC, plus the fans I'll be using for the XT360 will be running at ~1200rpm, they're AP-15's which don't bother me at all until +1500RPM.
> 
> I know the extra rad will make my rig look less clean, but I really need to improve these temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's either that, or doing 2 loops.


change to a bigger case







you would do it eventually anyway


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> Hello, have now managed to add 2nd Rad and fans to bottom of my 800D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All that rad for the cpu. Cool looking though.







What are you're temps and how is the rad mounted?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Had an extra IKEA Dioder strip laying around so I threw it in my case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wished I had an actual camera to capture the shot


Monsta rad's in a mid-tower case. Love it!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> change to a bigger case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you would do it eventually anyway


I'd change case if it wasn't for the fact that I'd need to get new radiators, tell me a nice case which fits this Magicool 540mm rad and I could consider it, but as of now, changing case is not on my plans.

Money is VERY tight these days, having to buy new rads wouldn't be fun at all.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You already added a 120 for no effect then removed it,why do you think that a 360 will have a marked improvement?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You already added a 120 for no effect then removed it,why do you think that a 360 will have a marked improvement?


The 120mm was internal and it was pulling all the heat from the bottom rad, maybe thats why I didn't see an improvement?

Not sure, might as well change case, but I'd hate having to buy new rads, selling this triple 180mm rad is near impossible, and I don't know any cases below 250€ that can fit it internally.

First I'll try doing 2 loops in this Raven, I just don't see my self spending more money on a new case, a separate loop for the CPU should get me the performance I want, maybe not aesthetics, but I want performance right now.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Turning up the fans only helps around 2ºC, plus the fans I'll be using for the XT360 will be running at ~1200rpm, they're AP-15's which don't bother me at all until +1500RPM.
> 
> I know the extra rad will make my rig look less clean, but I really need to improve these temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's either that, or doing 2 loops. First I will try by just adding that rad externally. Also my case temps are nuts when Folding (40-42ºC) and one of my hard drives (Caviar Black 750GB) is hitting 53ºC which is dangerous, I really need to lower the water temperature when Folding.


MORE RADS!!! I like more rads. Get that delta down.


----------



## CiBi

I'm rebuilding my rig, switching to a white Switch 810 amongst some other watercooling upgrades. The parts should be here tomorrow.

-> Build Log <-

and here are some last pictures of my current rig:


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> MORE RADS!!! I like more rads. Get that delta down.


That's what I'll do, most likely I'll do 2 different loops to ensure the CPU is well cooled even when the GPU's are under 100% load with [email protected]









2 loops in my Raven case? It's a challenge, but I'll make it.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's what I'll do, most likely I'll do 2 different loops to ensure the CPU is well cooled even when the GPU's are under 100% load with [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 loops in my Raven case? It's a challenge, but I'll make it.


You know you can stuff a 560 rad in that case.







Why not get a res/pump bay that supports two pumps, get a RX120 rad for the cpu and the 540 for the GPU's?


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Really? I thought I would get lower temps. 70C just seems a bit high. Or maybe that was just me buying into the water cooling hype. But that is also my running Intel Burn Test and not Prime. Not sure what my prime temps are.


If you want lower temps, lower your ambient in your room or your voltage (and overclock). I can drop my temps at 100% by as much as 20c if I open a window in my office (it is winter and around -8c outside).


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conwa*
> 
> +1
> 
> I think you can overclock that cpu in theory till 5ghz @ 50 degrees or something lol.


Hello, mate, im currently running the rig at 5ghz, Average load temps on AIDA64 @ 8 hours is 56 degrees, idle temp is 23degrees.


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> All that rad for the cpu. Cool looking though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you're temps and how is the rad mounted?
> Monsta rad's in a mid-tower case. Love it!


hello, thanks rad is 80mm monsta, was a VERY tight fit, so is litrally wedged under the hard drive cages! Idle temps @ 5ghz 23 degrees, load 53 degrees with 1.53v, gaming in BF3 on Ultra and 1920x1200 temps are 35degrees, used to be in the 60's with my H100.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YowZ*
> 
> I'm assuming you plan to water cooling your GPUs as well SpecializedPro.
> That's alot of radiator real estate for 1 CPU.


LOL, yep, tried to find out how much rad would be needed to cool 3 580's and 5ghz 3930k properly, and the general answer was at least 3x360 or a 1080 rad, theres no way i can squeeze another 360 in that case, so holding off for a bit until i decide what to do, am thinking that 3x 780 will be more power efficient and use a lot less rad. Im also thinking 900D, but cant really be bothered to move 'house' again as only had the 800D for a year will be a waste.


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Those 580's are begging to go under water!


LOL, yep, tried to find out how much rad would be needed to cool 3 580's and 5ghz 3930k properly, and the general answer was at least 3x360 or a 1080 rad, theres no way i can squeeze another 360 in that case, so holding off for a bit until i decide what to do, am thinking that 3x 780 will be more power efficient and use a lot less rad. Im also thinking 900D, but cant really be bothered to move 'house' again as only had the 800D for a year will be a waste.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The 120mm was internal and it was pulling all the heat from the bottom rad, maybe thats why I didn't see an improvement?
> 
> Not sure, might as well change case, but I'd hate having to buy new rads, selling this triple 180mm rad is near impossible, and I don't know any cases below 250€ that can fit it internally.
> 
> First I'll try doing 2 loops in this Raven, I just don't see my self spending more money on a new case, a separate loop for the CPU should get me the performance I want, maybe not aesthetics, but I want performance right now.


I don't understand how you can get so bad temps with the 540 rad. My 3930k at 4.7 GHz and GTX 680 Lightning at 1385/7100 max at 60-65c and 45-50c respectively. When I ran two 6950's the temps weren't much different.

But as some have suggested, I would perhaps try the 560 sr1 or move to a different case. At least that is what I would do.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> I don't understand how you can get so bad temps with the 540 rad. My 3930k at 4.7 GHz and GTX 680 Lightning at 1385/7100 max at 60-65c and 45-50c respectively. When I ran two 6950's the temps weren't much different.
> 
> But as some have suggested, I would perhaps try the 560 sr1 or move to a different case. At least that is what I would do.


The heat difference between one 680 and two in the loop is quite significant, if I keep on one idle, the other one never reaches above 48ºC and the CPU doesn't reach above 65ºC either.

This is all when [email protected], gaming wise? The GPU's will NEVER reach above 50ºC even with fans at very slow peeds and the CPU never reaches above 65ºC, [email protected] is much more stressful.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Guys,this is a picture thread,can you ask your questions in their own thread please.
We have pages of posts off topic now,general observations on new WC gear and rigs are fine but if you have a specific problem then make a thread.

Thank you.


----------



## SpecializedPro

Just out of interest, maybe not the right place to ask but does anyone know why my 3930k @ 5ghz or 4.9ghz on Rampage IV, can run 8 - 12 hours flat out on AIDA64, game for hours on end, but decides to randomly blue screen only when its not doing anything!

I have read about all the power management options ie ANTI SURGE, ADAPTIVE THERMAL MONITOR & SPEEDSTEP e.t.c, which are all disabled but still annoyingly BSOD's at will!

If i run it @4.8ghz its fine even with ANTI SURGE, ADAPTIVE THERMAL MONITOR & SPEEDSTEP e.t.c enabled.

thanks


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> Just out of interest, probably not the right place to ask but does anyone know why my 3930k on Rampage IV, can run 8 - 12 hours flat out on AIDA64, game for hours on end, but decides to randomly blue screen only when its not doing anything!
> I have read about all the power management options ie ANTI SURGE, ADAPTIVE THERMAL MONITOR & SPEEDSTEP e.t.c, which are all disabled but still annoyingly BSOD's at will!


Drop the Load-Line Calibration, if set at High, set it to Medium. That helps get a bit higher voltage on idle to prevent those BSOD's.

Now as B NEGATIVE said, let's keep this to pictures and general observations, my bad too!


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Drop the Load-Line Calibration, if set at High, set it to Medium. That helps get a bit higher voltage on idle to prevent those BSOD's.
> 
> Now as B NEGATIVE said, let's keep this to pictures and general observations, my bad too!


Ok, will try that as it set to high, pictures and general observations it is!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you have questions and you want us to have a look, link it here and we will come to you,keeps the thread clean and we can go into real depth.


----------



## hammerforged

Does anyone have any experience with the Black Ice GTX Xtreme 480 Radiators? Have a new build coming up and I'm considering switching from my XSPC RX480 to one of these since I have room for push/pull now, not that a 480 needs it ha.

Link


----------



## LiquidHaus

from my "Nazara" build log...


----------



## OverClocker55

Here is my radiator. Just arrived


----------



## kyismaster

my radiator just arrived too lol


----------



## OverClocker55

Mine is better


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Mine is better


depends


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Am I correct in thinking that I still need regular compression fittings to attach to angled fittings?


Yes if you are getting an angled adapter it just threads into the g1/4 port and then your compression fitting threads into that


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Mine is better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> depends
Click to expand...

On wut 0_0


----------



## mr one

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> my radiator just arrived too lol






whats total lenght of it?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> Guess its about time i posted mine here too
> first water loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Want to add some lights in there to make everything pop nicely, including the UV tubes


for a first loop very nice one, especially when considering the not so commonly used DF-85 case (let alone WC in it) and an AMD setup to add to the rareness. whats with that out of place HDD cage?
and any plans for the future WC that case or you would switch it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight26*
> 
> The cool stream 240 xt fits great in the front. Its 276 mm long and there's about 279 mm clearance. The top fan mount holes line up so it mounts securely. The black ice sr-1 was my other option for the front rad. It's 277 mm long. It should fit as well but i went with EK all the way through (except for a coupe alphacool 90 fittings and a koolance drain valve fitting) since i could get almost everything I needed in a kit from them. I didn't have any leaks. The rad doesn't touch the bottom of the case.
> 
> The black box is a hot swappable bay for 3.5" HDD with a WD drive in it. I have 2 SSD's in the bay above mounted on 5.25 to 2.5 adapter. I don't have a disc drive since I found that I rarely used it. I didn't go with a bottom mount 240 because it would be so tight against the PSU. Since it's modular, I would have to take the rad out if I needed to add or remove a power cable. I could've put a slim 240 or 280 in the top but i wanted to keep the light effect from the 2 140 mm blue led fans.


you didn't have to apply a little force to get the rad in? (as illustrated *here* and a few minutes forward). because if you had no problem and the specs on the webz are correct then i could potentially fit there an Alphacool monsta 240 80mm thick rad. (do you think it's a good idea?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> My chip is de lidded lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a screenie lmao..


love the scenario







(i'm sure it is familiar to many around here)
what is that red fan on the middle mount on the rad? is it any good? (and how beautiful is it when it spins?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Had an extra IKEA Dioder strip laying around so I threw it in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> Wished I had an actual camera to capture the shot


like that monster (pun intended







)
how well are the temps with that beast? also, is it true that it is mere 279mm in length as some sites say? (because most don't say how long it is and it is hard for me to believe that it's only 279 mm)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Here is my radiator. Just arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


you know that you have spent way too much time in Water cooling (especially without ordering yet







, but very soon all shall change) when you can immediately tell by a single picture that this is a Swiftec MCR220 XP radiator (or maybe QP)
what fans would you use with it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> my radiator just arrived too lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


perty








which fans would cool that pretty thing? (and what water block are getting for your card instead of the alphacool one?)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> whats total lenght of it?
> 
> 
> 
> 3mm Thick Aluminium Frame (No aluminium in the flow path)
> Copper and Brass Core
> Matt Black Painted Core
> Black Chrome Plated G1/4″ Ports
> RoHS Compliant
> Dimensions: 128 x 40 x 286mm (WxDxH) (46mm at ports)
> Weight: ~ 867g
> Screws: 6-32 UNC
> Fans: 2 x 120mm (4x with push/pull)
> 
> Supplied 30mm and 6mm 6-32 UNC screws
Click to expand...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=35555


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=35555


Do not want it anymore... its too long for my case a bit, i have maybe a 1 cm in each end of clearance

Edit: ok some bugs in writing skills is now spreading all over


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Do not want it anymore... its too long for my case a bit, i have maybe a 1 cm in eanch end of clearance


I got a fix for you:


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> 
> whats total lenght of it?


its about 11inches and 1/4th of an inch
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> for a first loop very nice one, especially when considering the not so commonly used DF-85 case (let alone WC in it) and an AMD setup to add to the rareness. whats with that out of place HDD cage?
> and any plans for the future WC that case or you would switch it?
> you didn't have to apply a little force to get the rad in? (as illustrated *here* and a few minutes forward). because if you had no problem and the specs on the webz are correct then i could potentially fit there an Alphacool monsta 240 80mm thick rad. (do you think it's a good idea?)
> love the scenario
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i'm sure it is familiar to many around here)
> what is that red fan on the middle mount on the rad? is it any good? (and how beautiful is it when it spins?)
> like that monster (pun intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> how well are the temps with that beast? also, is it true that it is mere 279mm in length as some sites say? (because most don't say how long it is and it is hard for me to believe that it's only 279 mm)
> you know that you have spent way too much time in Water cooling (especially without ordering yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but very soon all shall change) when you can immediately tell by a single picture that this is a Swiftec MCR220 XP radiator (or maybe QP)
> what fans would you use with it?
> perty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which fans would cool that pretty thing? (and what water block are getting for your card instead of the alphacool one?)


i plan to use cougar vortex's on them


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> Hello, mate, im currently running the rig at 5ghz, Average load temps on AIDA64 @ 8 hours is 56 degrees, idle temp is 23degrees.


----------



## MiiX

Oh, question:
Corsair SP HP or GT AP-15 on a UT60 radiator
How does the fans undervolt?


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> Hello, mate, im currently running the rig at 5ghz, Average load temps on AIDA64 @ 8 hours is 56 degrees, idle temp is 23degrees.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I got a fix for you:


thank you








Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by mr one
> 
> Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
> 
> whats total lenght of it?
> 
> its about 11inches and 1/4th of an inch


Oh and just saw that it could easily eat my paycheck with all other hardware i need


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conwa*
> 
> +1
> 
> I think you can overclock that cpu in theory till 5ghz @ 50 degrees or something lol.


Big thanks for the REP!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Do not want it anymore... its too long for my case a bit, i have maybe a 1 cm in each end of clearance
> 
> Edit: ok some bugs in writing skills is now spreading all over


RS and EX should be slightly smaller. Swiftech, BI, AC, Alphacool, EK, etc. also make 240mm rads around the same length. How much space are your working with?


----------



## Knight26

Quote:


> you didn't have to apply a little force to get the rad in? (as illustrated *here* and a few minutes forward). because if you had no problem and the specs on the webz are correct then i could potentially fit there an Alphacool monsta 240 80mm thick rad. (do you think it's a good idea?)
> love the scenario
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i'm sure it is familiar to many around here)


I believe the monsta 240 would be to long to vertically in the front depending on the what type of blind fittings you use on the bottom ports. You have to have a blind fitting for every unused port on the rad and that will add to the total length. So you would be looking at 279 mm + however think the head of the blank fittings are. I can double check my clearance measurement to be sure. I'm working off of memory since I didn't write it done. I would probably try to mount the monsta on the bottom if you don't have a modular power supply and you can squeeze the cables up nice and tight. Then you could mount the pump or pump/res combo on top of the rad using and a 120 mm adapter bracket. Several companies make them.

The rad that Tom was using as an example is an XSPC RX240. They are 286 mm long according to the spec sheet. That's why he had to bang it in there. The cool stream XT240 is a full 10 mm shorter. 10 mm is just shy of 1/2 inch more clearance and that makes a lot difference.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> RS and EX should be slightly smaller. Swiftech, BI, AC, Alphacool, EK, etc. also make 240mm rads around the same length. How much space are your working with?


290mm on top and 300mm in front

Edit: wrong measurements, all theese going when i make an aluminium version of my case, up for now i have only 270mm on top and 280mm in front, so my rad temporary gonna go to the outside of case


----------



## Dzuks

This is my rig. I need some suggestions on a full water cooling loop before adding a 4th 6970.
Thanks


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight26*
> 
> I believe the monsta 240 would be to long to vertically in the front depending on the what type of blind fittings you use on the bottom ports. You have to have a blind fitting for every unused port on the rad and that will add to the total length. So you would be looking at 279 mm + however think the head of the blank fittings are. I can double check my clearance measurement to be sure. I'm working off of memory since I didn't write it done. I would probably try to mount the monsta on the bottom if you don't have a modular power supply and you can squeeze the cables up nice and tight. Then you could mount the pump or pump/res combo on top of the rad using and a 120 mm adapter bracket. Several companies make them.
> 
> The rad that Tom was using as an example is an XSPC RX240. They are 286 mm long according to the spec sheet. That's why he had to bang it in there. The cool stream XT240 is a full 10 mm shorter. 10 mm is just shy of 1/2 inch more clearance and that makes a lot difference.


that's an important point on the G1/4 plugs that i haven't thought of. (+REP)

to mount the mosta in the bottom is possible but for the bottom i think the alphacool XT45 would be a better fit (and come to think of it, in the front it could be better too.) the high point of mounting a rad on the bottom is that it is possible then to mount a 120/140 rad in the front while having a 240 at the bottom. and as for the res / pump, it is possible to get one of those tube res with pump housing and use one of the vertical mounting to miunt it to the front 240 rad.

for me the front 240 would look a bit cleaner and better (plus not as tight) but the bottom 240 gives a little more option for rad real estate. (though if i mount a top 360 rad it won't matter too much)

edit:
according to *this* a plug should be around 7mm (and the phobya ones look very similar to the alphacool ones) and i guess the g1/4 thread itself is at least half of it or even 5mm (if anyone know how long is a g1/4 it would be very helpful) so while it would be near impossible to fit a monsta there is still, some, hope.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> This is my rig. I need some suggestions on a full water cooling loop before adding a 4th 6970.
> Thanks


Keep an eye on used 6970 blocks. I saw a ton of them a few months ago going really cheap. That's one hot 6970 triple sandwich


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> This is my rig. I need some suggestions on a full water cooling loop before adding a 4th 6970.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Nice build. Why not just sell all those and 2 GTX 680 4gbs?


----------



## Bezna

Joining Ze Club


----------



## OverClocker55

Fake WaterCooling xD


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> for a first loop very nice one, especially when considering the not so commonly used DF-85 case (let alone WC in it) and an AMD setup to add to the rareness. whats with that out of place HDD cage?
> and any plans for the future WC that case or you would switch it?


Thanks ^^ yeah when i started looking into watercooling i noticed lots of people refrained from WCing in it cause frankly... it sucks.
the most convinient rad would be a 280 on top, which isnt the "standard" size of 120mm intervals. The 240 area would be cut off by the 140mm fans.
And i do plan to stay with this case for a coulple reasons.
a) Cost (thig biggest reason) frankly im a poor lil bastard.. Dont let the rig fool you, ive had to peice this thing together over the last year or so.
b) projects, i plan to make the window all nice n pretty and i think it would look really nice with some lights in there.
c) laziness and also time banked into this case already.

As for the HDD bay, remember how i said there are no convinient places to put a rad??? well... mine is a 360mm gtx black ice... not small, no sir.
So what i did was i cut the bracket for the HDD bay out to make room (couldnt be happier) and ripped the HDD bracket from my old antec 900.
honestly i think even though the color of it doesnt match the case, i like the overall new look. more solid, more filled. the bracket is almost the same height as the PSU and it also hides the small bunch of cables routed into the cable management hole directly behind it.
not to mention the placing of the HDDs is easier cause routing the cables for the old bracket was either ugly (cables facing in) or difficult (cables facing out, backwards)

In the future i plan to WC my gpu (which may end up upgraded) and also i want to paint that drive cage.
Gonna customize that window and maybe learn how to acrylic etch.

damn i wanna do more work now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Fake WaterCooling xD


He is just as welcome as a full loop owner,we dont mock AIO owners,they are liquid coolers too.

Funny as you run a AIO yourself......and such a tiny motherboard too.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He is just as welcome as a full loop owner,we dont mock AIO owners,they are liquid coolers too.
> 
> Funny as you run a AIO yourself......


He is doing that because his custom watercooling stuff started arriving today.

Wants to gloat a little I guess.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got some stuff sent to me for a new fun build.











OUT OF MY WAY PATHETIC HUMAN!!!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> Thanks ^^ yeah when i started looking into watercooling i noticed lots of people refrained from WCing in it cause frankly... it sucks.
> the most convinient rad would be a 280 on top, which isnt the "standard" size of 120mm intervals. The 240 area would be cut off by the 140mm fans.
> And i do plan to stay with this case for a coulple reasons.
> a) Cost (thig biggest reason) frankly im a poor lil bastard.. Dont let the rig fool you, ive had to peice this thing together over the last year or so.
> b) projects, i plan to make the window all nice n pretty and i think it would look really nice with some lights in there.
> c) laziness and also time banked into this case already.
> 
> As for the HDD bay, remember how i said there are no convinient places to put a rad??? well... mine is a 360mm gtx black ice... not small, no sir.
> So what i did was i cut the bracket for the HDD bay out to make room (couldnt be happier) and ripped the HDD bracket from my old antec 900.
> honestly i think even though the color of it doesnt match the case, i like the overall new look. more solid, more filled. the bracket is almost the same height as the PSU and it also hides the small bunch of cables routed into the cable management hole directly behind it.
> not to mention the placing of the HDDs is easier cause routing the cables for the old bracket was either ugly (cables facing in) or difficult (cables facing out, backwards)
> 
> In the future i plan to WC my gpu (which may end up upgraded) and also i want to paint that drive cage.
> Gonna customize that window and maybe learn how to acrylic etch.
> 
> damn i wanna do more work now


i think you should stick with the case because it has a good premise but needs a little craftsman touch (aka you) and some love. to me Antec makes great cases but they always have this little flaw or two.

other than the window and GPU water cooling, you should consider modding that case a bit. for example start with painting that cage, or better make a custom little bracket that would fit the case or even make a PSU cover with a cage for drives. also i think it should be considered to mod the roof (a little cutting








) for a top 360 and on the back it looks possible to mount a 240 or at least a 120.
but please, be even more creative and think of many more things that you'd want to do with the case.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He is just as welcome as a full loop owner,we dont mock AIO owners,they are liquid coolers too.
> 
> Funny as you run a AIO yourself......
> 
> 
> 
> He is doing that because his custom watercooling stuff started arriving today.
> 
> Wants to gloat a little I guess.
Click to expand...









I love my h60


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got some stuff sent to me for a new fun build.
> 
> OUT OF MY WAY PATHETIC HUMAN!!!


I h8 you









Dog rules though


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got some stuff sent to me for a new fun build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OUT OF MY WAY PATHETIC HUMAN!!!


do you have any idea if that new block of yours is strictly only 7950 ref or is there any slight chance for it to fit a 7970 pcb?

btw, a funny fact is that i have a cat which is probably bigger than that dog







(maybe a bit scary actually)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its a 7970/50 version 2 block,hence the 7970 on the block and backplate


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my h60


And I love you too


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a 7970/50 version 2 block,hence the 7970 on the block and backplate


which is why this is all very deceiving:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



compability list: http://www.alphacool.com/download/compatibility%20list%20ATI.pdf
on the V2 its only 7950 pcb design

manual: http://www.alphacool.com/download/Anleitung_HD%2079xx_oB.pdf



BUT, if you manage to get it on a 7970 PCB that would be great for all of us







(especially with the looks of the block







)


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my h60
> 
> 
> 
> And I love you too
Click to expand...









So excited for my stuff


----------



## Bezna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Fake WaterCooling xD


I know I know... I cant compete with you giants
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He is just as welcome as a full loop owner,we dont mock AIO owners,they are liquid coolers too.
> 
> Funny as you run a AIO yourself......and such a tiny motherboard too.


Thanks for getting my back lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> He is doing that because his custom watercooling stuff started arriving today.
> 
> Wants to gloat a little I guess.


I guess I would gloat and trash talk too if I had a custom loop on the way too!


----------



## OverClocker55

My rad is the same size as yours hehe


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got some stuff sent to me for a new fun build.
> 
> OUT OF MY WAY PATHETIC HUMAN!!!


You're going to watercool your DOG?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Magoo is the creative genius,im just his human henchman....


----------



## OverClocker55

DOG


----------



## minicooper1

hi boys, crsital tube for bitspower c47 is 12/10? thanks


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i think you should stick with the case because it has a good premise but needs a little craftsman touch (aka you) and some love. to me Antec makes great cases but they always have this little flaw or two.
> 
> other than the window and GPU water cooling, you should consider modding that case a bit. for example start with painting that cage, or better make a custom little bracket that would fit the case or even make a PSU cover with a cage for drives. also i think it should be considered to mod the roof (a little cutting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) for a top 360 and on the back it looks possible to mount a 240 or at least a 120.
> but please, be even more creative and think of many more things that you'd want to do with the case.


Ive thought about making a psu cover or making a drive bay, but i think with a bit of paint and or tinkering, i can get this one looking mighty fine.

also ive thought about trying to mount the 360 on the top with some modding.. but i decided against it due to the lack of 5.25" bay ussage afterwards.
if i choose to add another rad ill probly get myself a 280 ot go on the top, its tho only logical thing i can think of.
i also want to find a better mounting solution for my pump. the zip ties arent gonna cut it for me forever...


----------



## Hokies83

About all i can do for now..

Waiting on 3 more Monsta 86mm rads and i have to Rma my MB.


----------



## HPE1000

I need to learn how to be more sarcastic


----------



## kyismaster

well, i did some test painting today, and well... what was supposed to be pearl white, came out to be a honda civic silver...



do you like the color?

note: the part was originally black.



it litterally sparkles like car paint, when i took a look at it in the sun, i was like " holy crap "

heres a somewhat crappy attempt to show the sparkles.


----------



## cam51037

Just a question for you guys, if I tried to put 2x GTX 670's, and a 2600k @ 4.4 GHz all under water, what kind of radiator would I need? Any idea on what the total cost of the water cooling would be? Thanks if you can help me out, just doing a bit of planning.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Just a question for you guys, if I tried to put 2x GTX 670's, and a 2600k @ 4.4 GHz all under water, what kind of radiator would I need? Any idea on what the total cost of the water cooling would be? Thanks if you can help me out, just doing a bit of planning.


Maybe a 360 and 120 or 2 240mm ?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> well, i did some test painting today, and well... what was supposed to be pearl white, came out to be a honda civic silver...
> do you like the color?
> 
> note: the part was originally black.
> 
> it litterally sparkles like car paint, when i took a look at it in the sun, i was like " holy crap "
> 
> heres a somewhat crappy attempt to show the sparkles.


lol? pearl white and silver are pretty much different, how can you get such result?
bought the wrong paint?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Just a question for you guys, if I tried to put 2x GTX 670's, and a 2600k @ 4.4 GHz all under water, what kind of radiator would I need? Any idea on what the total cost of the water cooling would be? Thanks if you can help me out, just doing a bit of planning.


I'm running the same components as yours except I've oc'ed it to 4.5ghz
currently using 1x360 and 1x240 rad, the temp is ok
with ambient 22-24c idling at 31-35c; full load around mid 50's
but I'm not satisfied yet, gonna add 480 rad in it (currently on its ways







)

for the price it depends on which website/shop you going to buy from, and what case you will be using?


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> lol? pearl white and silver are pretty much different, how can you get such result?
> bought the wrong paint?
> I'm running the same components as yours except I've oc'ed it to 4.5ghz
> currently using 1x360 and 1x240 rad, the temp is ok
> with ambient 22-24c idling at 31-35c; full load around mid 50's
> but I'm not satisfied yet, gonna add 480 rad in it (currently on its ways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> for the price it depends on which website/shop you going to buy from, and what case you will be using?


Well currently I have a Rosewill Thor V2, which I've heard for water cooling is kind of bleh, so I'm not exactly sure what I'll be using.

But right now I have a 670 and a 2600k, but my plan is to get another 670 in the future for SLI, so I would like temps in the low 50's at most, because right now, my 670 is hitting around 57C at like 70% fan speed which is pretty noisy. Kind of like a vacumn in my PC, lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Just a question for you guys, if I tried to put 2x GTX 670's, and a 2600k @ 4.4 GHz all under water, what kind of radiator would I need? Any idea on what the total cost of the water cooling would be? Thanks if you can help me out, just doing a bit of planning.


Thick rad like the RX360, SR1 360, GTX 360, UT60, etc. should fit in your case. You can throw in another slim (or thick) 240 somewhere, like the drive bays, and a 120 in the rear.

Kepler and SB don't dump a lot of heat so you should be good with just a good thick 360 with some good matching fans.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Just a question for you guys, if I tried to put 2x GTX 670's, and a 2600k @ 4.4 GHz all under water, what kind of radiator would I need? Any idea on what the total cost of the water cooling would be? Thanks if you can help me out, just doing a bit of planning.


I'd say you could pretty safely get away with a 3x 120 radiator but you might want to add an extra 120mm in there. sandy bridge and 670's run quite cool.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I'd say you could pretty safely get away with a 3x 120 radiator but you might want to add an extra 120mm in there. sandy bridge and 670's run quite cool.


Thanks for the help all so far, +rep to all of you!

But total cost wise, any ideas how much it would be to buy all this stuff for a whole system? Like all the WC parts?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Thanks for the help all so far, +rep to all of you!
> 
> But total cost wise, any ideas how much it would be to buy all this stuff for a whole system? Like all the WC parts?


If you look for preowned, you might be able to put something together for ~ $200-300.

You can always cool the cpu first and then later on, the gpus since the gpu blocks tend to be one of the most expensive items.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Thanks for the help all so far, +rep to all of you!
> 
> But total cost wise, any ideas how much it would be to buy all this stuff for a whole system? Like all the WC parts?


It will be at least 500 bucks if you want new parts I would say. GPU waterblocks tend to be quite pricey especially if you want a pretty one. My 670 blocks cost $135. So tahts $270ish for just the 2 cards and then you could get a pre made kit like one of the XSPC kits for around $250 I believe. I only have a single 670 and cpu in my loop and it cost me about 900 bucks.







Sorry on my way out the door otherwise I would link you some kits.

It can be done for cheaper with 2nd hand parts and whatnot but if aesthetics are at all in the factor it's not going to be cheap :\ Minimum $500 I would say.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Thanks for the help all so far, +rep to all of you!
> 
> But total cost wise, any ideas how much it would be to buy all this stuff for a whole system? Like all the WC parts?


Well i went all i highend parts and cost me about $1000 with shipping included.. but if you went on more of a budget im sure you could get away with $500ish


----------



## chann3l

Final part to my build.. 500r window mod


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> lol? pearl white and silver are pretty much different, how can you get such result?
> bought the wrong paint?
> I'm running the same components as yours except I've oc'ed it to 4.5ghz
> currently using 1x360 and 1x240 rad, the temp is ok
> with ambient 22-24c idling at 31-35c; full load around mid 50's
> but I'm not satisfied yet, gonna add 480 rad in it (currently on its ways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> for the price it depends on which website/shop you going to buy from, and what case you will be using?







not quite how I wanted it to turn out... but i guess its ok.

not bad for a single coat

I think im gonna try to buff the bottom out.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

So i decided to go with Clear/UV blue
instead of the Pastel white / UV Blue.
with my helix res. it prob. wouldn't look great.
any good Clear / UV blue recommedations?
was going to go with Feser probally..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> So i decided to go with Clear/UV blue
> instead of the Pastel white / UV Blue.
> with my helix res. it prob. wouldn't look great.
> any good Clear / UV blue recommedations?
> was going to go with Feser probally..


Liquid/additives or tube?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Liquid/additives or tube?


liquid/additives.. i already have solid
white tubing that is uv blue and i have a
frozenq blue helix 250mm res.
was maybe going to use Mayhem's pastel
white / UV blue but prob would not work out good.


----------



## NostraD

My latest water cooling project in my new LianLi PC-8FIR. I needed a new case for my folding rig, and I have wanted a LianLi for a long time. Since my birthday is this month I splurged a bit.








I know it's a dated case, but I have had my eye on it for a few years now. I am so glad I made the decision to get it too - the quality and craftsmanship is amazing!
Still waiting on a new PSU, a few more rotary fittings, and a mounting bracket for the rad. I plan to eventually get a second 240 rad (or maybe a 280 - there's room) and get rid of the AIO cooling the CPU.
I apologize for the pic quality - my wife has the Canon and she isn't here.


----------



## mavisky

First fake watercooling loop. Short story is the H80 lines had a leak mid line and I figured I'd just do this vs waiting weeks to RMA it.

Testing out of the case


First time mounted


Installed and running


----------



## NostraD

^







good job!


----------



## Slap Dash

I like ^


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> liquid/additives.. i already have solid
> white tubing that is uv blue and i have a
> frozenq blue helix 250mm res.
> was maybe going to use Mayhem's pastel
> white / UV blue but prob would not work out good.


Mayhems is awesome stuff


----------



## YouGotJaked

Anyone know if it's ok to paint a Heatkiller GPU waterblock and backplate? I have a chance to pick one up (680 version if you're curious) for super cheap and the copper/nickel doesn't match my color scheme. Obviously I wouldn't paint the inside


----------



## mavisky

Thanks guys. Here's the basic breakdown

H80 = $85
Swifttech Microres 2.0 = $27
Ultimate G fittings = $26 (yea $13 each since the micro res only comes with 3/8 and 1/2" barb fittings)
1/4"x3/8" hose from home depot = $12 for 10feet
Primochill pure performance fluid = $12
Bright orange dye = $5 (did this in about 5 hours time so had to work with what was in stock nearby)

In no way would I ever ever reccomend this as an actual cooling solution but since the damned lines were leaking anyway the reservoir probably doubled the total coolant amount in the loop and has I been able to snag some $3 barb fittings would have set me back very little. In the end though it's something to tinker with and a decent introduciton to what goes into a real loop down the road.


----------



## Attacktrak

Hi guys, this time i show the update of my wife's system, unfortunately i [email protected]#t the Vapor-x 5870







& those are temporal


----------



## wermad

nice









Glad to hear your spouse is more open to customizing her computer. My better-half won't even let me touch her tired and out-dated oem desktop. i'm trrying to convince her to get a new build w/ a prodigy and cls.


----------



## Attacktrak

Thanks Jejejeje... i should be proud of her, also she let me destroy her graphic card







(not intentionally) but I bought new one & she is just waiting for...








maybe you should give her a new hardware, then she loves the new mod with all new parts inside... & to you too


----------



## Bezna

So do I wait to be added to the list on the second post of this thread or go ahead and just add the sig tag code and not wait for my username to be on the list? thanks


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear your spouse is more open to customizing her computer. My better-half won't even let me touch her tired and out-dated oem desktop. i'm trrying to convince her to get a new build w/ a prodigy and cls.


I got lucky and found me a girl that has taken an interest in computers. For christmas I bought her a bunch of parts and let her put it all together herself, with me standing right there to offer a helping hand where needed. Next step is getting her to build her own WC loop


----------



## Canis-X

Nice! My wife doesn't like me touching her rig (that I built) unless it is borked, and then she blames me for being the reason that it was borked to begin with so I have to fix it....ugg







She kept pushing me the whole time to buy her a Dell


----------



## Beakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Nice! My wife doesn't like me touching her rig (that I built) unless it is borked, and then she blames me for being the reason that it was borked to begin with so I have to fix it....ugg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She kept pushing me the whole time to buy her a Dell


Hey, at-least she isn't asking for a Mac


----------



## Attacktrak

Oh, Man, that's a very hard punishment...







once again i am a lucky guy, she let me do what i want to give her a good one PC with LCS


----------



## Attacktrak

Hey, i going to change her case for a Cooler Master 690 but i need some help with the dye, i want a true REACTIVE UV pink, do you got some ideas?


----------



## Stige

Some testing before I have time to finish building my case

http://stigez.com/ocn/13010082.jpg


----------



## crazyg0od33

may as well add my first loop. Finished in may of 2012. Build log is in the signature:


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> First fake watercooling loop. Short story is the H80 lines had a leak mid line and I figured I'd just do this vs waiting weeks to RMA it.
> 
> Testing out of the case


Love it. I'd often wondered whether this was possible! How does it perform compared to previously?


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> like that monster (pun intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> how well are the temps with that beast? also, is it true that it is mere 279mm in length as some sites say? (because most don't say how long it is and it is hard for me to believe that it's only 279 mm)


Yup it really is 279mm. Id say 279.5 to be safe.

I have the monsta with a 45mm rad in my loop and while running p95 my CPU maxes at ~43C and under furmark my gpu doesn't peak over 42c with a heavy OC


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear your spouse is more open to customizing her computer. My better-half won't even let me touch her tired and out-dated oem desktop. i'm trrying to convince her to get a new build w/ a prodigy and cls.


My gf is good for this







her motherboard is actualy better than mine haha (crosshair iv)
The only problem is she gets me to do all the work plus she doesnt maintain the dust at all


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear your spouse is more open to customizing her computer. My better-half won't even let me touch her tired and out-dated oem desktop. i'm trrying to convince her to get a new build w/ a prodigy and cls.
> 
> 
> 
> My gf is good for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> her motherboard is actualy better than mine haha (crosshair iv)
> The only problem is she gets me to do all the work plus she doesnt maintain the dust at all
Click to expand...

Pffft, acting like you don't enjoy fixing/tweaking/upgrading her rig as much as your own.


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Love it. I'd often wondered whether this was possible! How does it perform compared to previously?


Well it was running a bit cooler than previously so I ditched the Asus automatic overclock settings for my own to get the 4170 up to 4.909ghz and it still keeps that at about 55c during games like Day Z and Planetside 2 that seem to be fairly CPU intensive.

Once you cut the stock lines off you realize that the pump and radiator just have 1/4" diameter barb fittings. I just slowly worked the hose onto the barb (they fit very very tight) and then put a ziptie around them to be safe. I've seen other people actually use 3/8"x1/2" hose but I'd want an actual hose clamp of some nature on the barbs as that would be more susceptible to leaks. Have to take the system apart next week and may try it with that size hose just to see how it works as the increase in flow wouldn't hurt as the stock H80/H100 pump is pretty weak.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> Hey, at-least she isn't asking for a Mac


So true, OTOH that might have been cause for divorce! LMAO


----------



## CiBi

My parts have arrived

check out my buildlog
*[Build Log] Liquid Hexa V2.0 *


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> Ive thought about making a psu cover or making a drive bay, but i think with a bit of paint and or tinkering, i can get this one looking mighty fine.
> 
> also ive thought about trying to mount the 360 on the top with some modding.. but i decided against it due to the lack of 5.25" bay ussage afterwards.
> if i choose to add another rad ill probly get myself a 280 ot go on the top, its tho only logical thing i can think of.
> i also want to find a better mounting solution for my pump. the zip ties arent gonna cut it for me forever...


as long as you can make that cage fit beautifully then it's a go. just remember that whatever modding WC you'd be doing, the sky is the limit








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Yup it really is 279mm. Id say 279.5 to be safe.
> 
> I have the monsta with a 45mm rad in my loop and while running p95 my CPU maxes at ~43C and under furmark my gpu doesn't peak over 42c with a heavy OC


does that length include the g1/4 plugs at the top and bottom bleed plug? (since these too take some space)


Spoiler: since this is a possible problem



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight26*
> 
> I believe the monsta 240 would be to long to vertically in the front depending on the what type of blind fittings you use on the bottom ports. You have to have a blind fitting for every unused port on the rad and that will add to the total length. So you would be looking at 279 mm + however think the head of the blank fittings are. I can double check my clearance measurement to be sure. I'm working off of memory since I didn't write it done. I would probably try to mount the monsta on the bottom if you don't have a modular power supply and you can squeeze the cables up nice and tight. Then you could mount the pump or pump/res combo on top of the rad using and a 120 mm adapter bracket. Several companies make them.
> 
> The rad that Tom was using as an example is an XSPC RX240. They are 286 mm long according to the spec sheet. That's why he had to bang it in there. The cool stream XT240 is a full 10 mm shorter. 10 mm is just shy of 1/2 inch more clearance and that makes a lot difference.






if i'll be able to fit it in the front of the C70 it would be like getting a 1.5 of a 240 rad (low fpi one) and it would fit great with a top ST30 360 one. (max rad estate in a classy mid)

but in anyways, what fans are recommended for that monsta? (specific fan or just the usual RPMs for a fan to have. also push , pull or p/p?)


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyadCK*
> 
> Pffft, acting like you don't enjoy fixing/tweaking/upgrading her rig as much as your own.


Youre right







however she whines when i take it away to tinker with it. I havent been in it for a while, but she has a laptop she can use now, i aughta get in there and clean out some crap lol.
I keep pressing her to upgrade her cooling so can overclock. She needs a nee gpu as well.
I WANT her to water cool but i told her id like her to start taking better care of her computer before i agree to help her set it up.. last thing i want is her accidentaly drenching her expensive hardware and blaming it on me.


----------



## DatNetherbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> Youre right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> however she whines when i take it away to tinker with it. I havent been in it for a while, but she has a laptop she can use now, i aughta get in there and clean out some crap lol.
> I keep pressing her to upgrade her cooling so can overclock. She needs a nee gpu as well.
> I WANT her to water cool but i told her id like her to start taking better care of her computer before i agree to help her set it up.. last thing i want is her accidentaly drenching her expensive hardware and blaming it on me.


This reminds me a lot of my boyfriend. Whilst I can tell that it secretly kills him that I have a better pc than he does, he won't have any of my advice on taking the plunge because it bruises his masculinity.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatNetherbane*
> 
> This reminds me a lot of my boyfriend. Whilst I can tell that it secretly kills him that I have a better pc than he does, he won't have any of my advice on taking the plunge because it bruises his masculinity.


also its "a bit" expensive







(though expensive doesn't exist on this site. one moment you just got your first real PC and a bit Overclocking and before you know it you get into multi GPU water cooled rig with custom almost everything which at least doubles what you first had and even then you can think of more things to add / a new GPU or CPU came out so you do it all over again.)

as of now i have only switched cases from my first build and as soon as i take the plunge i guarantee (and dread) that it all goes downhill from there


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatNetherbane*
> 
> This reminds me a lot of my boyfriend. Whilst I can tell that it secretly kills him that I have a better pc than he does, he won't have any of my advice on taking the plunge because it bruises his masculinity.


lol, learn to give the car a tune up and change oil







Keep bruising!

sorry, I couldn't help myself. Carry on.


----------



## DatNetherbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> lol, learn to give the car a tune up and change oil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep bruising!
> 
> sorry, I couldn't help myself. Carry on.


This made me laugh a lot because its incredibly true. I got myself a 1971 Lotus Europa as a first car (its purple under the black flaky paint







) and it still *really* needs fixing up, insurance is through the roof but it was a real beauty in it's heyday. Looks like i'm gonna be the one fixing it as well...


----------



## dumbazz

Check Collectors insurance My 79 Vette is $104.00 a year for 2k miles.


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatNetherbane*
> 
> This reminds me a lot of my boyfriend. Whilst I can tell that it secretly kills him that I have a better pc than he does, he won't have any of my advice on taking the plunge because it bruises his masculinity.


Well even though i have the lesser mobo of the two, my rig still blows hers out of the water, and im also the tech savy one.

wanna know what she said when we were out shopping for her mobo?

shop guy: What can i help you with
girlfriend: I want a motherboard
shop guy: Alright, which one would you like to look at?
girlfriend: THE ONE IN THE BIG SHINEY RED BOX~!
shop guy: *looks at me*








me:







the asus crosshair IV please, dont worry, im the one putting it together.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatNetherbane*
> 
> This made me laugh a lot because its incredibly true. I got myself a 1971 Lotus Europa as a first car (its purple under the black flaky paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and it still *really* needs fixing up, insurance is through the roof but it was a real beauty in it's heyday. Looks like i'm gonna be the one fixing it as well...


I don't know what your talking about, a Lotus Europa is a *****en car. The insurance premium is well worth it... least in my opinion. Rock on!

EDIT: OCN's editing ruined the meaning of my comment: Car is very very nice!


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> Well even though i have the lesser mobo of the two, my rig still blows hers out of the water, and im also the tech savy one.
> 
> wanna know what she said when we were out shopping for her mobo?
> 
> shop guy: What can i help you with
> girlfriend: I want a motherboard
> shop guy: Alright, which one would you like to look at?
> girlfriend: THE ONE IN THE BIG SHINEY RED BOX~!
> shop guy: *looks at me*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> me:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the asus crosshair IV please, dont worry, im the one putting it together.


LOL


----------



## MiiX

Im never getting my drawing done







What would you guys do?
Two 240's
Two 280's
One 360 and one 120


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Im never getting my drawing done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would you guys do?
> Two 240's
> Two 280's
> One 360 and one 120


Personally, I would get two 280mm radiators. I like 140mm fans though...


----------



## wermad

any ideas to add a pressure gauge to my loop? I've been asked a bunch of qs on my loop and i would like to starting adding concrete info.

I've seen a bunch of gauges on ebay, just looking for some easy to adapt to g1/4 threads or just barbs


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Im never getting my drawing done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would you guys do?
> Two 240's
> Two 280's
> One 360 and one 120


The two 280's of course.

The other 2 options are only a 480 equivalent, . . . . Versus a 560, it's a no-brainer, all else being equal.

Darlene


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The two 280's of course.
> 
> The other 2 options are only a 480 equivalent, . . . . Versus a 560, it's a no-brainer, all else being equal.
> 
> Darlene


I also taught so, but I just had to be sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Personally, I would get two 280mm radiators. I like 140mm fans though...


I'm liking the 280 rads myself, but I need some fans, but i got _no_ clue what to go for on the 140mm side.


----------



## wermad

I vote for the 120 rads. You have a ton of options for 120mm fans.


----------



## MiiX

Thats kind of why im stuck :\


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Thats kind of why im stuck :\


140mm rads are nice but 120mm is more practical if you decide to change things around. Most cases support 120mm rads and some add for 140mm support. Its really the fans that made me decide on 120mm rads. I know there are great 140mm fans out there but you have more than double the choices for 120mm. I also found 140mm fans can be as noisy as 120mm.

Also, there's a ton of options for 120mm rads. My suggestion:





(I've had both, very extreme rads imho!)


----------



## MiiX

Cant go for anything thicker than UT60, which is what im probably going for, 120 or 140. But I see your point.
If you had to choose between 2x 240 rads and 360+120, what would you go for then?


----------



## AlaskaFox

Are noctua fans not good for rads? they have a good line of 140mms dont they?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Thats kind of why im stuck :\


Let's look at what rads exactly that you were looking into . . . .

With lower fpi rads, fans like the aerocool sharks work well, and on a controller have a generally acceptable noise level.

If you're looking at higher fpi, then you have B-Gears Blasters, which have very good static pressure, but tend to have a higher noise level to go with it.

My favorite 140's, if you can use red in your color scheme, are the Prolimatechs:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14514/fan-947/Prolimatech_Aluminum_Vortex_Series_140mm_x_25mm_CPU_Fan_-_Red_LED_1600RPM_127CFM.html?tl=g36c435s1105

they move a lot of air and have reasonable static pressure, are quiet for the speed and amount of air they move, but don't come cheap.

If space permits, you also have the option of using 120 fans on 120 to 140 adapters which gets you all the possibilities that come with 120's, while having the rad space of 140's.

Darlene


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Cant go for anything thicker than UT60, which is what im probably going for, 120 or 140. But I see your point.
> If you had to choose between 2x 240 rads and 360+120, what would you go for then?


UT60 are really nice. Is your loop going into your sig-rig case?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Let's look at what rads exactly that you were looking into . . . .
> 
> With lower fpi rads, fans like the aerocool sharks work well, and on a controller have a generally acceptable noise level.
> 
> If you're looking at higher fpi, then you have B-Gears Blasters, which have very good static pressure, but tend to have a higher noise level to go with it.
> 
> My favorite 140's, if you can use red in your color scheme, are the Prolimatechs:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14514/fan-947/Prolimatech_Aluminum_Vortex_Series_140mm_x_25mm_CPU_Fan_-_Red_LED_1600RPM_127CFM.html?tl=g36c435s1105
> 
> they move a lot of air and have reasonable static pressure, are quiet for the speed and amount of air they move, but don't come cheap.
> 
> If space permits, you also have the option of using 120 fans on 120 to 140 adapters which gets you all the possibilities that come with 120's, while having the rad space of 140's.
> 
> Darlene


My guess is that I'm going for Alphacool UT60, 120mm or 140mm.

Google pretty fast now and found 10FPI for ACool UT60's

Red will work as I will probably go for an Asus ROG board.

Taught about adapters, I can fit it on one of the 280's, but the other one wont fit with adapters I guess.

Most probably I'm going for one rad first, then another one if i add another GPU, which isnt that far away from reality if Im going to watercool the rig.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> UT60 are really nice. Is your loop going into your sig-rig case?


Yes, that's what I'm hoping for. But i do have to sell some of the rig before i can buy new parts for watercooling. Mostly cause my head says "No, you have a working rig already!"
Minor mods required?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> EDIT:
> Yes, that's what I'm hoping for. But i do have to sell some of the rig before i can buy new parts for watercooling. Mostly cause my head says "No, you have a working rig already!"
> Minor mods required?


If you can fit the 360, for that (plus the 120mm). In terms of cost, the two 240mm ut60s are slightly cheaper.

What are you cooling btw? Just your sig rig? You can do perfectly fine w/ just the one 360mm.

Also, scour for used stuff. Just saw an SR1 480mm rad on ebay go for $65!!!!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> EDIT:
> Yes, that's what I'm hoping for. But i do have to sell some of the rig before i can buy new parts for watercooling. Mostly cause my head says "No, you have a working rig already!"
> Minor mods required?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can fit the 360, for that (plus the 120mm). In terms of cost, the two 240mm ut60s are slightly cheaper.
> 
> What are you cooling btw? Just your sig rig? You can do perfectly fine w/ just the one 360mm.
> 
> Also, scour for used stuff. Just saw an SR1 480mm rad on ebay go for $65!!!!
Click to expand...

If I manage to sell it pretty quick, I will buy an i-5, I guess a 3570k and a GTX 670.

Yea, I kknow a 360 will work Pretty good for 1xCPU and 1xGPU, but in the future I might add another GTX 670 , when the pricedrops.

Sorry, posting from my phone :S


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> If I'm lucky and sell this pretty quick,i


Just cooling your Thuban and Fermi? The UT60 360mm is more then enough for that









Look for a used RX360, SR1 360, or GTX 360. Also very capable rads but used they cost far less then a new UT60.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just cooling your Thuban and Fermi? The UT60 360mm is more then enough for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look for a used RX360, SR1 360, or GTX 360. Also very capable rads but used they cost far less then a new UT60.


Read post above.
Well I were looking for used rads last week, but there are close to zero that are sold used. I found a shop in Denmark, south of Norway which seems to have most of the WC gear I could want.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Read post above.
> Well I were looking for used rads last week, but there are close to zero that are sold used. I found a shop in Denmark, south of Norway which seems to have most of the WC gear I could want.


The single 360mm rad should handle a cpu and two 670s. Keplers are a bit cooler then Fermis so that UT60 360mm will work perfectly fine.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The single 360mm rad should handle a cpu and two 670s. Keplers are a bit cooler then Fermis so that UT60 360mm will work perfectly fine.


Oh, thats nice. I will most probably overclock both the CPU and the GPU(S), will then the 360 be enough, or should a 120 be added? I just dont want to end up with an overheating rig









On a UT60, what fans would you reccomend?


----------



## NomNomNom

Do you guys find that the Mcp pumps have a annoying whine to them?


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Do you guys find that the Mcp pumps have a annoying whine to them?


I can hear mine if I listen for it. It has an annoying high-pitch but overall a low volume (at least time does). I've had gpu capacitor whine that was louder.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


----------



## dumbazz

Mine doesn't.
It is new though.


----------



## NomNomNom

What series do you guys have? I have the MCP355


----------



## OverClocker55

Hmm I forgot to measure my radiator. I'm nervous it's not going to fit


----------



## wermad

I'm running a 35x at full speed, a bit noisy but not bad.

For that 355, hook it up to a fan controller and drop the voltage and she'll purr like a kitten


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatNetherbane*
> 
> This made me laugh a lot because its incredibly true. I got myself a 1971 Lotus Europa as a first car (its purple under the black flaky paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and it still *really* needs fixing up, insurance is through the roof but it was a real beauty in it's heyday. Looks like i'm gonna be the one fixing it as well...


Clearly your boyfriend doesn't appreciate you... I WISH I could find a girl who bought a '71 Europa as her FIRST CAR, much less water-cools a custom PC!







to you for being awesome.

That's what I love about OCN... This is truly THE MOST diverse computer enthusiast community, and it's damn nice that it's not a giant "boy's club" or whatever BS... (not to mention one of our most knowledgeable, talented, and insane-in-the-good-way members, IT Diva, is a woman)








Rock on, OCN!


----------



## teamrushpntball

i keep my 35x at 20%pwm for the most part. Nice and quiet. Am about to add a pwm 655 as a second pump in the next few weeks.

At that point I'm adding the second pump so I don't have to turn up my pump for the extra blocks that are about to be added. Going from gpu, cpu, ram and 480 radiator to 2 gpu's, cpu, ram, mobo, 480, 240 and 140.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Cant go for anything thicker than UT60, which is what im probably going for, 120 or 140. But I see your point.
> If you had to choose between 2x 240 rads and 360+120, what would you go for then?


I personally really, really like 140 rads, as you get a lot more usable surface area by simply making the radiator wider, but not a whole lot longer... For example, a 3x140 radiator (using basic math) has slightly more surface area than a 4x120 radiator; then when you factor in needing only 3 fans instead of 4, you have one less "dead spot" due to the fan hubs (further increasing usable surface area).

The problem for many people is the lack of fan selection, although I think that it has gotten significantly better even just over the past year. I personally think that the Bgears Blasters (140mm 1800rpm 103cfm/3.5mmH2O - rated specs) are just about the best 140mm radiator fan you can get for the money, although NoiseBlockers and others are also quite good.

Also, I have found (at least with my EX420 using 6 of the Bgears in Push-Pull) that the Phobya 140x140x7mm Shrouds/Decouplers work exceedingly well at reducing noise, preventing ANY air leakage, and giving a *slight* performance gain... At least that is true for the EX series, which is 19-split-fins-per-inch, and may not hold as true for lower FPI radiators.

The UT60 280 would be, in my opinion, the best radiator for your needs. One of the "coolest" (haha, I made a pun-ny!) things about it is that, likely due to the massive amounts of copper used in its construction, cooling ability scales almost perfectly-linearly with fan speed! Therefore, buying fast fans and a fan controller would allow you to have nice, low, quiet fan speeds for 24/7 use but crank them up and give your loop some serious heat dissipation ability! I personally have a UT60 240 (didn't want to lose a front intake fan on my Switch 810 in order to fit a 280), and I went with the beastly Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm fans (spec'd at 107cfm and 5.4mmH2O) in push-pull, and when cranked up they move an insane amount of air!

Point being, I would go for 140mm rads over 120mm rads any time I had the option!


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm running a 35x at full speed, a bit noisy but not bad.
> 
> For that 355, hook it up to a fan controller and drop the voltage and she'll purr like a kitten


Its odd because i even have the swiftech heatsink on it, also my fan controller is rated up to 30w, how do i convert a molex to 3pin?
Also my pump is really weird... If you lift it up
Itll stop running but as soon as you place it back on the ground it starts up again. Its scared of heights or something


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Do you guys find that the Mcp pumps have a annoying whine to them?


I have MCP655 Vario with an EK res/top combo. I find it has a bit of a whine at above setting 4. I also have it mounted with a custom bracket and rubber gasket to silence vibrations. I'm pretty sure it's the motor. Haven't tried a controller yet, just running straight off Molex 12v.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Its odd because i even have the swiftech heatsink on it, also my fan controller is rated up to 30w, how do i convert a molex to 3pin?
> Also my pump is really weird... If you lift it up
> Itll stop running but as soon as you place it back on the ground it starts up again. Its scared of heights or something


You can solder on a fan harness or just crimp on some pins and add a fan connector. Very simple mods if you have the right (and inexpensive) tools


----------



## LiquidHaus

you guys have fully convinced me to get monstas









anyone want my black ice sr1 120mm, 240mm and 360mm radiators? haha


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> you guys have fully convinced me to get monstas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone want my black ice sr1 120mm, 240mm and 360mm radiators? haha


Welcome to the addic... I mean, club









Which ones did you get?


----------



## Roder J

I know it's just an AIO but I wanted something maintence free quick and cost effecient to get my youngest sons rig running. 
so technically our first modern liquid cooled rig, looking at either the EK , KIT-H3O-LT120 or the XSPC RS240 kit for a sub 200 start for my self and possibly my oldest son.
on a side note how's gigabytes easy tune 6 to play with was gonna take his fx8120 to 4. with it and see..


----------



## crunkosaur

easy tune just over volts your cpu to get a stable OC. If you do it manually you will get better results.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Welcome to the addic... I mean, club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which ones did you get?


haha i havent bought them yet, but i plan on a 480 and a 240, maybe a 360 instead of the 240. will have to see if i can fit it without further modification to my 800d. i've finished heavily modifying it i feel.

but i'd need to sell my sr1's to get the funds to do the monstas.


----------



## OverClocker55

What are some good 4 or more fan controllers you guys use for your huge wc setups?


----------



## Roder J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> easy tune just over volts your cpu to get a stable OC. If you do it manually you will get better results.


thats what I figured but knowing he's not gonna maintain or watch things I want to keep it stable yet dont really trust this seidon to keep cool enough yet, btw heres where it's at tonight;

sorry for the poor cell phone pic..


----------



## ginger_nuts

Wow!!!!!

One busy long week at work and I am 32 pages behind


----------



## kanaks

Hello mates, sorry if this is offtopic, I need help deciding on a loop setup.

I am willing to mount a top 360 and 2 x 120 (UT60) rads on the floor. Is it going to be more effecient that a 360 on top and 200mm on the front?

I promote the use of 2 1x120 rads on the floor (rotated so they are with their ports towards the outside of the case) over the 200mm front since more cold air is going to be introduced to the case by the free 200mm fan and the 360 rad its going to be benefited.

Thanks and sorry for the noobish question. Here is (more or less) the overall plan


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Its odd because i even have the swiftech heatsink on it, also my fan controller is rated up to 30w, how do i convert a molex to 3pin?
> Also my pump is really weird... If you lift it up
> Itll stop running but as soon as you place it back on the ground it starts up again. Its scared of heights or something


Go to ebay and get one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=molex+to+3+pin&_sacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Do you guys find that the Mcp pumps have a annoying whine to them?


Yeah i have to really listen for it though.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I personally really, really like 140 rads, as you get a lot more usable surface area by simply making the radiator wider, but not a whole lot longer... For example, a 3x140 radiator (using basic math) has slightly more surface area than a 4x120 radiator; then when you factor in needing only 3 fans instead of 4, you have one less "dead spot" due to the fan hubs (further increasing usable surface area).
> 
> The problem for many people is the lack of fan selection, although I think that it has gotten significantly better even just over the past year. I personally think that the Bgears Blasters (140mm 1800rpm 103cfm/3.5mmH2O - rated specs) are just about the best 140mm radiator fan you can get for the money, although NoiseBlockers and others are also quite good.
> 
> Also, I have found (at least with my EX420 using 6 of the Bgears in Push-Pull) that the Phobya 140x140x7mm Shrouds/Decouplers work exceedingly well at reducing noise, preventing ANY air leakage, and giving a *slight* performance gain... At least that is true for the EX series, which is 19-split-fins-per-inch, and may not hold as true for lower FPI radiators.
> 
> The UT60 280 would be, in my opinion, the best radiator for your needs. One of the "coolest" (haha, I made a pun-ny!) things about it is that, likely due to the massive amounts of copper used in its construction, cooling ability scales almost perfectly-linearly with fan speed! Therefore, buying fast fans and a fan controller would allow you to have nice, low, quiet fan speeds for 24/7 use but crank them up and give your loop some serious heat dissipation ability! I personally have a UT60 240 (didn't want to lose a front intake fan on my Switch 810 in order to fit a 280), and I went with the beastly Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm fans (spec'd at 107cfm and 5.4mmH2O) in push-pull, and when cranked up they move an insane amount of air!
> 
> Point being, I would go for 140mm rads over 120mm rads any time I had the option!


You guys are giving me a freaking hard time deciding! :\

Well, the fact that 140 has more surface area than 120 is keeping me from choosing 120. The final options for my case is then 360+120 or 280x2. The 120 rads gives me 360+120=500 then the two 280's give me 560, which really has more cooling ability. Then the fans are introduced to this mess of choosing rads, 120mm fans, no problem, go wild, then 140mm fans, Sure, pick me, I'm the only one. That's kind of how I feel about the fan part..

BGears Blasters, is probably the fans I will go for on a 140 rad, and the GT AP-15 is what I'm going for on a 120 rad.
The BGears fans, are they noisy/clicky(anything special) at low RPM? I love to have the ability to slow down the fans for minimum noise, as the computer is 30cm from my head









I wonder how UT60 120mm with AP'15's vs UT60 140mm with BGears B-Blasters would compare in pure performance. I will go googling them after I'v made dinner, so i wont respond for atleast 1 hour, I guess









EDIT:
A MCP35X with PWM, are they noisy at, , say 50%?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

I am looking at possible running SLI 680's and want to watercool ...

I was looking at running the Heatkiller blocks (black) are these blocks good performers ? ... ... How much radiator space would you recommend for 2x 680's with a light OC


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all ...
> 
> I am looking at possible running SLI 680's and want to watercool ...
> 
> I was looking at running the Heatkiller blocks (black) are these blocks good performers ? ... ... How much radiator space would you recommend for 2x 680's with a light OC


360 rad.

Please can you make your own thread for this,this is the Picture thread,if you want specific technical advice then create a thread for it.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 360 rad.
> 
> Please can you make your own thread for this,this is the Picture thread,if you want specific technical advice then create a thread for it.


Sorry ... I thought it was a club and picture gallery ... will create a new thread ... =) ...

Thanks for the advice


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 360 rad.
> 
> Please can you make your own thread for this,this is the Picture thread,if you want specific technical advice then create a thread for it.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry ... I thought it was a club and picture gallery ... will create a new thread ... =) ...
> 
> Thanks for the advice
Click to expand...

Discuss parts etc as much as you like,If you have a specific question then by all means link it here and we will come to you and answer in your thread.


----------



## Hokies83

My up coming rebuild loop will go...

Apogee drive 2 / mcp 35x pump

> monsta 360 x 3

> which ever 400 ML plus res I get

> xspc bay res / 750 pump

> monsta 240mm rad

> back to Apongee drive 2 / mcp 35x pump


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velcrowchickensoup*
> 
> Yeah i have to really listen for it though.


Mine makes the loudest resonating sound. Must be because of my case is really thin steel


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> What are some good 4 or more fan controllers you guys use for your huge wc setups?


I'm using Scythe KAZE MASTER PRO and used a Lamptron FC Touch on my buddies rig. Both really good FC imo.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I'm using Scythe KAZE MASTER PRO and used a Lamptron FC Touch on my buddies rig. Both really good FC imo.


how many fans could you put on a single channel on the Scythe controllers ? (since Scythe controllers are the only ones that are available in my country







)


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> how many fans could you put on a single channel on the Scythe controllers ? (since Scythe controllers are the only ones that are available in my country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


On the Scythe FC, it only supports 12w per channel. So I would recommend only using one fan per channel. The Lampton FC supports up to 30w per channel, depending on the fan you can have 2-3 fans per channel.


----------



## MiiX

How many fans and what fans are you going to use? Ex, a GT AP-15 does less than 1w, and according to Schyte the controller can do 12w per channel, that lets you theoreticly use 12 fans on one channel cause of the power efficient AP15's, but I would not use more than 10, still alot of fans.

But if I go with my Akasa Apache, which uses about 4w, i can use up to 3 fans, but I still don't want to max the controller to hard incase of heat, etc, I do 2 fans. So there is alot of difference on how many fans it can do, most according to your fans ampere usage.

The math on a fan running on 12v:
12volts * 0.33amps = 3,96 watts per fan.
The fan controller can do 12watts per channel, so that's 1amp pr channel
12watts / 4watts = 3 fans. Since i don't like pushing fan controllers to the max, I do two fans(As i only got two anyway)

Hope this Help...

Since my Core 1000 is on my bench, yea, on the bench on top of a cardboard box cutted up in pieces. I decided to draw a few drawing of the case and my rad options:

The pump is also a res


----------



## PinzaC55

Just thought I would post an actual photo here? Been playing about with Photoshop.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> How many fans and what fans are you going to use? Ex, a GT AP-15 does less than 1w, and according to Schyte the controller can do 12w per channel, that lets you theoreticly use 12 fans on one channel cause of the power efficient AP15's, but I would not use more than 10, still alot of fans.
> 
> But if I go with my Akasa Apache, which uses about 4w, i can use up to 3 fans, but I still don't want to max the controller to hard incase of heat, etc, I do 2 fans. So there is alot of difference on how many fans it can do, most according to your fans ampere usage.
> 
> The math on a fan running on 12v:
> 12volts * 0.33amps = 3,96 watts per fan.
> The fan controller can do 12watts per channel, so that's 1amp pr channel
> 12watts / 4watts = 3 fans. Since i don't like pushing fan controllers to the max, I do two fans(As i only got two anyway)
> 
> Hope this Help...
> 
> Since my Core 1000 is on my bench, yea, on the bench on top of a cardboard box cutted up in pieces. I decided to draw a few drawing of the case and my rad options:
> 
> The pump is also a res


thanks for that.








so essentially no more than 3 fans on a channel (since it depends on the fan itself)
also you have forgotten amperage since the Scythe controllers are rated besides the 12W/channel also 1A/channel. though not too critical since most fans have low amperage but some have high ones.
scythe needs to make a good high Wattage controller so we could finally run a pump from one.

and as for the core 1000 bench, while i dislike the bottom ones for the PSU placement they are the best option rad estate wise. couldn't you fit a 120.140 rad above the PSU in the top right option?


----------



## Fonne

People were talking about 120 / 140mm rads - Remember that Alphacool is making a *140mm Monstra* that should be out this mounth







(From the mail i got from them)
Quote:


> Hi Alphacool
> 
> In this thread, you say that there will be a *140mm Monstra*, that will be
> released in the end of this year.
> 
> http://forum.alphacool.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1650
> 
> Is it still coming or just being late ?
> 
> /Regards Henrik Kristensen


Quote:


> Hi Henrik,
> 
> first of all thank you very much for your interest in our company and
> products. we still produce them, but i think that we will have them *stocked
> in January.*
> 
> Have a nice day!
> 
> Fabian


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> thanks for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so essentially no more than 3 fans on a channel (since it depends on the fan itself)
> also you have forgotten amperage since the Scythe controllers are rated besides the 12W/channel also 1A/channel. though not too critical since most fans have low amperage but some have high ones.
> scythe needs to make a good high Wattage controller so we could finally run a pump from one.
> 
> and as for the core 1000 bench, while i dislike the bottom ones for the PSU placement they are the best option rad estate wise. couldn't you fit a 120.140 rad above the PSU in the top right option?


Well, i never looked for that, il check right away...

Seconds later:
Tight, but it might work out! 6mm between the rad and the PSU using a UT60 radiator(124*157*60). Well, if i find a PSU that is 150mm in lenght there will be no problem, but if its a 160mm i need the plugs to be on the side furthest away from the fan. I could also go with having the PSU intake on the inside of the case, but i dont really want that as there is no bottom vents planned for the case :\


----------



## kcuestag

Well, making 2 loops did help a lot to improve both the GPU and the CPU temperatures.









May not look as nice as before, but the temperature improvement is definitely worth it.









I'll upload some pictures soon.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Just thought I would post an actual photo here? Been playing about with Photoshop.


I would say practice makes perfect, a lot of practice


----------



## liberato87

OBSIDIAN 800D R.O.G. EDITION


----------



## strong island 1

I guess everyone is going monsta 480


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> I would say practice makes perfect, a lot of practice


So they say. Can't wait to see your new rig!


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> OBSIDIAN 800D R.O.G. EDITION
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


At least I know what my 800D is going to look similar too soon. Looks good man!


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> You guys are giving me a freaking hard time deciding! :\
> 
> Well, the fact that 140 has more surface area than 120 is keeping me from choosing 120. The final options for my case is then 360+120 or 280x2. The 120 rads gives me 360+120=500 then the two 280's give me 560, which really has more cooling ability. Then the fans are introduced to this mess of choosing rads, 120mm fans, no problem, go wild, then 140mm fans, Sure, pick me, I'm the only one. That's kind of how I feel about the fan part..
> 
> BGears Blasters, is probably the fans I will go for on a 140 rad, and the GT AP-15 is what I'm going for on a 120 rad.
> The BGears fans, are they noisy/clicky(anything special) at low RPM? I love to have the ability to slow down the fans for minimum noise, as the computer is 30cm from my head
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder how UT60 120mm with AP'15's vs UT60 140mm with BGears B-Blasters would compare in pure performance. I will go googling them after I'v made dinner, so i wont respond for atleast 1 hour, I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> A MCP35X with PWM, are they noisy at, , say 50%?


The Bgears Blasters, despite being inexpensive fans ($10/ea or so), actually use pretty good dual-ball-bearing motors, which not only allows them to work equally-well in any orientation but also seems to allow the fan to run at surprisingly low speeds without "any complaints". I took a multimeter to my BitFenix Hydra Pro fan controller (5x 30W Channels), and found that it adjusts from about 4.9-5.1v to 12.8-13.1v, and with the Bgears I get a speed range of ~810rpm to ~1945rpm. When turned all the way down, the fans are amazingly quiet (and this is in push-pull, so there are six of them), just an ever-so-slight "wooosh" of air. They stay quieter than the stock case fans up until about ~75-80% of max speed, at which case they do become a bit louder. Fortunately, I find that they have a lower-pitched noise which is much more pleasant than the higher-pitched noise many fans make.

If you have the space, I would definitely recommend using either(or both) the Phobya 140x140x20mm Plexi Shroud, which is clear and allows you to put LED's to create a "glow" between the fan and the radiator (which looks really cool with White LED's, I must admit), and/or the Phobya 140x140x7mm Shroud/Decoupler which is thinner and is something of a mix between a "fan silencer" and a shroud but as it is thinner it is able to provide you with the benefits of using a shroud while taking up less space (although there are always compromises).
*Here are the same products for 120mm Fans, although the 20mm shroud is available in Black: Phobya 20mm Radiator Shroud for 120mm Fans and Phobya 120x120x7mm Shroud/Decoupler
I would use the 20mm thick shroud on the push side and the 7mm on the pull side, if you want to use the thicker one (or even have room to), otherwise 7mm on each side or even just on the push side is more than enough to give you that small "boost" as well as to tone down some of the noise.
Oh, there are also the new XSPC Radiator Gaskets, which are not intended to work as a shroud but rather to act like weather stripping, in that they "seal" the area between the fan and the rad preventing the air from escaping before it can be forced through the fins (the higher-pressure zone between the fan and the rad fins causes the air to take the path of least resistance, and if there happens to be even a crack of space between the fan and radiator, you will lose a not-insignificant amount of air pressure to it). Alternately, you could simply go to Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace/wherever and get some Foam Weather Stripping and use it to create your own seal! It would be equally effective, just a bit more time consuming.

The 140mm UT60 will perform better, although it's not some earth-shattering difference it IS still a difference...

And regarding the MCP35X, I don't find them noisy until about 60%, but even then it's not intrusive, it's simply the point at which it becomes a "distinctive sound" rather than being drowned out by fans. However, chances are that your pump will be sitting at ~25-30% speed for the vast, vast majority of its life!
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND, if you get the MCP35X (which you should, it's a fantastic pump!), that you also get the MCP35X-HS (Heatsink)!!! Martin found that the difference in PCB temps, using the pump w/o HS vs with HS vs with HS + Fan, was tremendous! The link to the Heatsink itself has the graph, but the numbers are: Stock - 51.5C DeltaT; With Heatsink Only - 33.4C DeltaT; With Heatsink & 80x15mm (15CFM) Fan - 25.2C. That's a slightly-better-than 50% temp drop!!!
I think that going with a fan alongside the heatsink is somewhat of a no-brainer, but as 80x15mm fans can be tricky to find sometimes, here's what I use, an Evercool Thin 80x15mm Medium-Speed Fan (Sleeved) which is rated for 2500rpm, 28.5CFM, 2.11mmH2O, less than 23dB, and only draws like 2W of power. It's significantly more powerful than the fan used in the aforementioned testing, and thus should provide even lower temperatures! Also, it REALLY IS QUIET! Despite running at 2500rpm, it's a nice, quiet fan!
However, if I were buying a fan for the Heatsink today, I'd DEFINITELY take a look at the Noiseblocker BlackSilentPro PC-P 80x15mm "Ultra Silent" PWM Fan which, although running at the same max 2500rpm, is an NB and inherently quiet and incredible (not only due to the PWM); specs are 600-2500rpm range, 8.2-30.6CFM, 1.9mmH2O, and a max of 25dB. Plus it looks WICKED!

I hope that helps


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Well, making 2 loops did help a lot to improve both the GPU and the CPU temperatures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May not look as nice as before, but the temperature improvement is definitely worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll upload some pictures soon.


Excellent! I'm very happy it worked out for you!

Now, PICS!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> What are some good 4 or more fan controllers you guys use for your huge wc setups?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using Scythe KAZE MASTER PRO and used a Lamptron FC Touch on my buddies rig. Both really good FC imo.
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll be getting the BitFenix Recon. It's got a good software for the pc and then you can also change speeds and check temps on your smart phone!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I guess everyone is going monsta 480
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


Damn you! I'm still waiting for my 480s to come in. With the upcoming holiday, I have to wait an extra day









Which fans are you planning to use?


----------



## chann3l

I've got the bitfenix recon it works great. The software is finicky and web based tho. Try using phoebetria you can find it on source forge. Works a lot better and you can combine channels to one temp sensor which is great for controlling rad fans based on one temperature


----------



## crazyg0od33

I'm not a big fan of the recon tbh with you. It makes so many annoying beeping noises, automatically cuts my fans to super slow speeds, the screen isnt very responsive, and the online "software" doesnt work very well IMO. It's just tough to set up and not very polished.


----------



## OverClocker55

oh


----------



## crazyg0od33

I'd recommend the hydra though if the online or touch isn't a huge deal. As a fan controller, the recon is fine aside from the way it's "software" works, but the hydra being a manual controller I can't imagine many issues...


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn you! I'm still waiting for my 480s to come in. With the upcoming holiday, I have to wait an extra day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which fans are you planning to use?


I'll be adding 480 monstas on that side door to add to those 360s before to long lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I'll be adding 480 monstas on that side door to add to those 360s before to long lol.


Make sure the side panel can take the weight. My recommendation: make a bracket that attaches to the case frame and positions it right at the openings on the side panel.

I think you should rename your build: Monstas Inc.







You have all sizes of monstas in there


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The Bgears Blasters, despite being inexpensive fans ($10/ea or so), actually use pretty good dual-ball-bearing motors, which not only allows them to work equally-well in any orientation but also seems to allow the fan to run at surprisingly low speeds without "any complaints". I took a multimeter to my BitFenix Hydra Pro fan controller (5x 30W Channels), and found that it adjusts from about 4.9-5.1v to 12.8-13.1v, and with the Bgears I get a speed range of ~810rpm to ~1945rpm. When turned all the way down, the fans are amazingly quiet (and this is in push-pull, so there are six of them), just an ever-so-slight "wooosh" of air. They stay quieter than the stock case fans up until about ~75-80% of max speed, at which case they do become a bit louder. Fortunately, I find that they have a lower-pitched noise which is much more pleasant than the higher-pitched noise many fans make.
> 
> If you have the space, I would definitely recommend using either(or both) the Phobya 140x140x20mm Plexi Shroud, which is clear and allows you to put LED's to create a "glow" between the fan and the radiator (which looks really cool with White LED's, I must admit), and/or the Phobya 140x140x7mm Shroud/Decoupler which is thinner and is something of a mix between a "fan silencer" and a shroud but as it is thinner it is able to provide you with the benefits of using a shroud while taking up less space (although there are always compromises).
> *Here are the same products for 120mm Fans, although the 20mm shroud is available in Black: Phobya 20mm Radiator Shroud for 120mm Fans and Phobya 120x120x7mm Shroud/Decoupler
> I would use the 20mm thick shroud on the push side and the 7mm on the pull side, if you want to use the thicker one (or even have room to), otherwise 7mm on each side or even just on the push side is more than enough to give you that small "boost" as well as to tone down some of the noise.
> Oh, there are also the new XSPC Radiator Gaskets, which are not intended to work as a shroud but rather to act like weather stripping, in that they "seal" the area between the fan and the rad preventing the air from escaping before it can be forced through the fins (the higher-pressure zone between the fan and the rad fins causes the air to take the path of least resistance, and if there happens to be even a crack of space between the fan and radiator, you will lose a not-insignificant amount of air pressure to it). Alternately, you could simply go to Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace/wherever and get some Foam Weather Stripping and use it to create your own seal! It would be equally effective, just a bit more time consuming.
> 
> The 140mm UT60 will perform better, although it's not some earth-shattering difference it IS still a difference...
> 
> And regarding the MCP35X, I don't find them noisy until about 60%, but even then it's not intrusive, it's simply the point at which it becomes a "distinctive sound" rather than being drowned out by fans. However, chances are that your pump will be sitting at ~25-30% speed for the vast, vast majority of its life!
> I HIGHLY RECOMMEND, if you get the MCP35X (which you should, it's a fantastic pump!), that you also get the MCP35X-HS (Heatsink)!!! Martin found that the difference in PCB temps, using the pump w/o HS vs with HS vs with HS + Fan, was tremendous! The link to the Heatsink itself has the graph, but the numbers are: Stock - 51.5C DeltaT; With Heatsink Only - 33.4C DeltaT; With Heatsink & 80x15mm (15CFM) Fan - 25.2C. That's a slightly-better-than 50% temp drop!!!
> I think that going with a fan alongside the heatsink is somewhat of a no-brainer, but as 80x15mm fans can be tricky to find sometimes, here's what I use, an Evercool Thin 80x15mm Medium-Speed Fan (Sleeved) which is rated for 2500rpm, 28.5CFM, 2.11mmH2O, less than 23dB, and only draws like 2W of power. It's significantly more powerful than the fan used in the aforementioned testing, and thus should provide even lower temperatures! Also, it REALLY IS QUIET! Despite running at 2500rpm, it's a nice, quiet fan!
> However, if I were buying a fan for the Heatsink today, I'd DEFINITELY take a look at the Noiseblocker BlackSilentPro PC-P 80x15mm "Ultra Silent" PWM Fan which, although running at the same max 2500rpm, is an NB and inherently quiet and incredible (not only due to the PWM); specs are 600-2500rpm range, 8.2-30.6CFM, 1.9mmH2O, and a max of 25dB. Plus it looks WICKED!
> 
> I hope that helps


That... is just an epic post of mass information!









Great info of the fans, And that they run as smooth as you say, Epic, just what i need. Running them at low speeds when ex. watching a movie and such, then pumping it to the max when BF3 is the case!

Shrouds, well... I not sure where to set my position, but the case is pretty tight, and with a 140mm rad I wont be able to use 20mm shrouds, but 7mm will work fine. If I can find a 15mm shroud, that's what i will use. As the motherboard will block anything over 15mm.
The XSPC/homemade gaskets are pretty interesting, as I know my H50 radiator "leaks" air







As you said, homemade will perform as well as "premade" ones.

Yeah, I'm more or less converted to 140mm rads now







Mostly cause the case can use 140mm rads better than 120mm rads, in terms of surface area.

That "low" speeds?! :O That's awesome. Temps, yea, I did a little research on that earlier and as you say, it can get pretty hot without the heatsink, but that wont be a problem cause its possible to get it bundled with reservoir and heatsink.
That's a pretty awesome 80mm fan you got there, the Noiseblocker BSP is even pretty easy for me to get my hands on!









Helps? You freaking set up my rig man! Thanks, A LOT









Now to the more detailed work, sketching and trying to obtain a UT60 blueprint







ACool said that they didn't have it, my ass they don't! And if it turns out to be as hard as ACool wants it, I will freaking buy one and do it myself!









Also decided on going for one 280mm rad at first, then upgrading to a another 280 if when the next GTX670 gets added.

Again, Lots of help, Thanks everyone!








Don't expect me to be done asking questions!


----------



## xNiNELiVES




----------



## Fonne

Who needs Monstra rads + D5 pumps, when we got the new Bigwater ?









http://www.techpowerup.com/178955/Thermaltake-Announces-Bigwater-760-Pro-Liquid-Cooling-System.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Who needs Monstra rads + D5 pumps, when we got the new Bigwater ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/178955/Thermaltake-Announces-Bigwater-760-Pro-Liquid-Cooling-System.html


me no wants!!!









I've tried TT "big water" kits...horrible, horrible stuff imho.


----------



## PinzaC55

The CPU block on that TT kit looks like something you would get in a Christmas cracker.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Who needs Monstra rads + D5 pumps, when we got the new Bigwater ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/178955/Thermaltake-Announces-Bigwater-760-Pro-Liquid-Cooling-System.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> me no wants!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried TT "big water" kits...horrible, horrible stuff imho.
Click to expand...

Aye,crap then and no doubt crap now......


----------



## minicooper1

minicooper_1 bitspower :asd: :asd: :asd:


----------



## wermad

^^^Awesome looking ram block there


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^Awesome looking ram block there


bitspower ram block is fantastic


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> You guys are giving me a freaking hard time deciding! :\
> 
> Well, the fact that 140 has more surface area than 120 is keeping me from choosing 120. The final options for my case is then 360+120 or 280x2. The 120 rads gives me 360+120=500 then the two 280's give me 560, which really has more cooling ability. Then the fans are introduced to this mess of choosing rads, 120mm fans, no problem, go wild, then 140mm fans, Sure, pick me, I'm the only one. That's kind of how I feel about the fan part..
> 
> BGears Blasters, is probably the fans I will go for on a 140 rad, and the GT AP-15 is what I'm going for on a 120 rad.
> The BGears fans, are they noisy/clicky(anything special) at low RPM? I love to have the ability to slow down the fans for minimum noise, as the computer is 30cm from my head
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder how UT60 120mm with AP'15's vs UT60 140mm with BGears B-Blasters would compare in pure performance. I will go googling them after I'v made dinner, so i wont respond for atleast 1 hour, I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> A MCP35X with PWM, are they noisy at, , say 50%?


Why don't you install GT15's on those 140mm radiators, you'll have the best of both worlds!









I believe one 560 has the same surface area as two 360 radiators. I will be running two 560's with this setup, Martin has done research into this setup! Increased airflow (CFM) and quieter fans all around better performance!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aye,crap then and no doubt crap now......


I think they should stick to re-badging cls instead


----------



## OverClocker55

I once tried the big water. My motherboard died.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Time to share photos!








I sold my Raystrom and get DD M6, added second fan to the 120 rad, and made the loop tidier (to my eyes at least







).
Also, now I'm using the Primochill Advanced tubing, hopefully it won't plasticize like the old one.


----------



## LiquidHaus

on the topic of recommended fans for monsta rads... anybody?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> I once tried the big water. My motherboard died.


Lol!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> on the topic of recommended fans for monsta rads... anybody?


IMHO for that monsta you want max performance, not something with silent purpose
performance you cant go wrong with scythe GT, or Noctua NF fans though it look horrible


----------



## Stige

Count me in?


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Who needs Monstra rads + D5 pumps, when we got the new Bigwater ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/178955/Thermaltake-Announces-Bigwater-760-Pro-Liquid-Cooling-System.html


Having a rad inside your case with the fan blowing hot air around inside your case and a cheap looking CPU block doesn't sound like a good idea to me no offense if your getting one


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> on the topic of recommended fans for monsta rads... anybody?


I'm using R4s. No complaints and I love that you can drop their voltage quite a bit







. Most 1500 or < fans will work fine. Though my R4s are rated at 2000rpm so I'm sure it will work fine with fans like the R4s.

Look into the Corsair fans, they're the latest rage


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Why don't you install GT15's on those 140mm radiators, you'll have the best of both worlds!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe one 560 has the same surface area as two 360 radiators. I will be running two 560's with this setup, Martin has done research into this setup! Increased airflow (CFM) and quieter fans all around better performance!


omg what case is that.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Excellent! I'm very happy it worked out for you!
> 
> Now, PICS!!!!!!!!!!!


I promise I'll take some pictures during day time, it's too dark at the moment.









Aesthetically I must admit it doesn't look all that great but honestly with the temperature improvements I got I could care less.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm using R4s. No complaints and I love that you can drop their voltage quite a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Most 1500 or < fans will work fine. Though my R4s are rated at 2000rpm so I'm sure it will work fine with fans like the R4s.
> 
> Look into the Corsair fans, they're the latest rage


R4's certainly appeal to me - i mean my wallet lol.

they dont too bad, and corsair fans are ridiculously expensive.

and i assume with how large the monstas are, that push/pull is recommended?


----------



## KaRLiToS

I also have Coolermaster R4 (some sickleflow but its basically the same). I have 18 total. I had them for around 3 years . They still all work perfectly fine. Some have slight buzzing noise but I can barely hear them, after 3 years its normal.


----------



## wermad

The blue and green led R4s tend to be a bit less expensive then the red ones. The greens are ~$7 each and the blue ones I've seen as low as $5 each. The reds tend to hover ~ $9-10.

i currently had my three monsta 360s w/ just one set of fans (push). We've discussed this a bit here and for big rads like monstas, or multiple rads, you may only get marginal gains. Considering I would need an additional 12 R4s to go push/pull, its kinda of hard to swallow the cost factor in gaining little or a fraction of an improvement.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> omg what case is that.


Looks like Case Labs but I can't tell which one.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn you! I'm still waiting for my 480s to come in. With the upcoming holiday, I have to wait an extra day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which fans are you planning to use?


I'm using the sp 120 high performance editions. I only have 4 of them on it right now. it's installed in the top compartment of my STH10. I have another 3 sp 120's on my rx 360 rad and I run them all at really low speeds. I just turn the dials down until I don't really hear them, I have no clue what rpm they are at. My components temps are good but I have to measure the water temps.


----------



## Drake.L

The 480 monstas look like they can kill someone







I have a 240 monsta and I thought that was big!


----------



## Hokies83

I use monsta rads because they are designed for low rpm fans for silence. I'm using SilentX 15 dba fans in pull config...

I went with adding more rads instead of more fans for performance great thing about having a huge case where u can have a massive amount of rads I can just add more rads and make the case super silent.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> Looks like Case Labs but I can't tell which one.


Check Systemlord's rig in his sig


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Check Systemlord's rig in his sig


says

STH10 or something but i've never seen one have a top drop in rad before.


----------



## MiiX

Unless someone has anything to add, this is the case layout I'm going for, as soon as my current rig is more or less sold.



Spoiler: Parts



1x MCP35x
1x MCP35x Resevoir
1x MCP35x Heatsink
1x NB BlackSilent Pro 80mm x 15mm
3x Bitspower 45*
3x Bitspower 90*
1x Bitspower 30*
1x EK Singel CSQ
1x EK Supermacy Acetal+Nickel
1x EK 670 Acetal+Nickel
8x Bitspower Fittings 1/2in ID
3m Durelene 1/2in ID 11/16in OD
3x Bgears B-Blaster 140mm
1x Alphacool UT60 280mm

It is more expensive than I taught


----------



## mironccr345

Got rid of green tubes and Mint pastel and went with green dye and clear tubes. Also got a new BP res from @PCmoddermike because the EK res had a leak.









Leak Testing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I'm using the sp 120 high performance editions. I only have 4 of them on it right now. it's installed in the top compartment of my STH10. I have another 3 sp 120's on my rx 360 rad and I run them all at really low speeds. I just turn the dials down until I don't really hear them, I have no clue what rpm they are at. My components temps are good but I have to measure the water temps.


Nice! tempted to sell my r4s and go w/ corsair but the r4s are still working fine and I get the leds with them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I use monsta rads because they are designed for low rpm fans for silence. I'm using SilentX 15 dba fans in pull config...
> 
> I went with adding more rads instead of more fans for performance great thing about having a huge case where u can have a massive amount of rads I can just add more rads and make the case super silent.


Silenx....how are they holding? I had some really bad luck with them. Bought 12 of them for a HAF build, half of them went bad within a month. Terrible led luminosity of the leds and over all performed mediocre. The led Yate (fake yates) performed better and the noise was about the same. Which made me wonder why the name if the noise is the same as others, ???

I've had great success w/ CM r4s, Bitfenix Spectre pros, & medium yates (Jab-tech fake Yates). A fan controller can really make most fans out there uber quiet on demand.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> The 480 monstas look like they can kill someone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 240 monsta and I thought that was big!


lol, they are intimidating looking







They're just huge...and ppl like big around here. Big cases, big cooling, big rads, etc. Honestly, when a brand new RX480, SR1 480 GTX 48, UT60 480 is priced not to far from a Monsta, and you can make it fit somehow, go for them! Really the best bang for your buck when considering new rads.

Sadly, you can easily find the former rads used for less then half their new price. There's not a lot of used Monstas out there for sale. So take the opportunity if you can when they come up used!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Got rid of green tubes and Mint pastel and went with green dye and clear tubes. Also got a new BP res from @PCmoddermike because the EK res had a leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leak Testing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Hokies83

I'm using the red SilentX that are 15 dba 74cfm that gave the good reviews I've had them 6 months with out issue.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Got rid of green tubes and Mint pastel and went with green dye and clear tubes. Also got a new BP res from @PCmoddermike because the EK res had a leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leak Testing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No paper, LIKE A BOSS!
hahaha, Clean look


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*


lol, I always feel like towelie when buying canned air, they always treat you differently when buying it.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> omg what case is that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> says
> 
> STH10 or something but i've never seen one have a top drop in rad before.


Lol, it's upside down!









I can still install a 480 and a 360 radiator up top if I wanted, but that would be extremely insane overkill! Hay I do have a brand spanking new SR-1 480 and a SR-1 120 still in it's retail packaging, just sitting there collecting dust! Hardware Labs replaced my 480 GTX radiator (RMA'ed) because the power coating started bubbling up, HWLabs sent me the 480 replacement plus a 120 radiator for being patient!

Got to love Hardware Labs, 100% customer service!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, I always feel like towelie when buying canned air, they always treat you differently when buying it.
Click to expand...

IKR


----------



## Drake.L

You guys should use an electric duster, so much more powerful than the can and it also doesn't lose its pressure! It is quite expensive though.


----------



## wermad

Data / Metro vac?

pretty pricey but I hear they work wonders.

Got some filters so I'm good


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Data / Metro vac?
> 
> pretty pricey but I hear they work wonders.
> 
> Got some filters so I'm good


Yup! The Metro Vac. It also comes with a couple accessories to really utilize it to its full potential. Sometimes i'm scared it'll actually damage the components if it's too close


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

B Neg said I could link my WC question thread here to see if anyone here would give me some advice ... so here it goes ... ((sorry if this is against thread rules))


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> says
> 
> STH10 or something but i've never seen one have a top drop in rad before.


The picture is of a pedestal for the STH10.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The picture is of a pedestal for the STH10.


It's not a pedestal, the STH10 is upside down.


----------



## Zerodameaon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Who needs Monstra rads + D5 pumps, when we got the new Bigwater ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/178955/Thermaltake-Announces-Bigwater-760-Pro-Liquid-Cooling-System.html


Still running one of the original Bigwater monstrosities in my 7yo system (that now acts as a file server in the closet) from when I was young and stupid. Then again its still running after 8 years I guess it qualifies as reliable, I would not dare touch anything because it would turn to mud.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I also have Coolermaster R4 (some sickleflow but its basically the same). I have 18 total. I had them for around 3 years . They still all work perfectly fine. Some have slight buzzing noise but I can barely hear them, after 3 years its normal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The blue and green led R4s tend to be a bit less expensive then the red ones. The greens are ~$7 each and the blue ones I've seen as low as $5 each. The reds tend to hover ~ $9-10.
> 
> i currently had my three monsta 360s w/ just one set of fans (push). We've discussed this a bit here and for big rads like monstas, or multiple rads, you may only get marginal gains. Considering I would need an additional 12 R4s to go push/pull, its kinda of hard to swallow the cost factor in gaining little or a fraction of an improvement.


ah the led ones... i'd probably choose the R4's that dont have any leds. the only lighting i have is from my NZXT HUE and my XSPC cpu and ram blocks.
to be honest that's how i feeel about having push/pull config with my SR1's - they're FPI is so low that i really doubt having pull fans makes much of a difference vs just push.

but now that i read this...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I use monsta rads because they are designed for low rpm fans for silence. I'm using SilentX 15 dba fans in pull config...
> 
> I went with adding more rads instead of more fans for performance great thing about having a huge case where u can have a massive amount of rads I can just add more rads and make the case super silent.


i may just go with using my current Enermax TB Silence fans. i have x11 120mm versions and x2 140mm versions already.

reading on performance-pcs.com, it says that Monsta Radiators have optimal performance with fans at speeds of 1200rpm.
my TB Silence fans do 900rpm (cant hear them at all - literally) so i dont think 300rpm is much of a difference to warrant buying a whole army of new fans.

hmmmm


----------



## crunkosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Hello mates, sorry if this is offtopic, I need help deciding on a loop setup.
> 
> I am willing to mount a top 360 and 2 x 120 (UT60) rads on the floor. Is it going to be more effecient that a 360 on top and 200mm on the front?
> 
> I promote the use of 2 1x120 rads on the floor (rotated so they are with their ports towards the outside of the case) over the 200mm front since more cold air is going to be introduced to the case by the free 200mm fan and the 360 rad its going to be benefited.
> 
> Thanks and sorry for the noobish question. Here is (more or less) the overall plan
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A 200mm rad in the front will be quieter and more effective than two 120mm rads. Im looking to sell mine if your interested.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> On the Scythe FC, it only supports 12w per channel. So I would recommend only using one fan per channel. The Lampton FC supports up to 30w per channel, depending on the fan you can have 2-3 fans per channel.


LOL. a single fan does not require anywhere close to 1W of power. 150-200mW at most for a standard 1800-2200 rpm fan.


----------



## SortOfGrim

updated my rig

old


new


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> A 200mm rad in the front will be quieter and more effective than two 120mm rads. Im looking to sell mine if your interested.
> 
> LOL. a single fan does not require anywhere close to 1W of power. 150-200mW at most for a standard 1800-2200 rpm fan.


Sorry, but you are misinformed on this. A Scythe GT15 which has very low amps runs at an even 1 watt. Something like a Corsair SP120 is at more than double with 2.16 watts.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I was asked the other day why I run my D5s at 24v.



Thats why.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was asked the other day why I run my D5s at 24v.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats why.


How is the noise from 12v to 24v Bneg? Thinking of switching from a single mcp35x to most likely 2 450's or mcp655 pwm's.


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was asked the other day why I run my D5s at 24v.
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1241002/width/500/height/1000%5B/IMG]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1241002/width/500/height/1000[/IMG[/URL] Thats why.[/QUOTE]
> to nearly double power consumption? [IMG alt="tongue.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/tongue.gif
> 
> Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It does have a higher noise output but not obtrusive.

Worth it for the extra grunt. I had my D5's set on 3,now i set them up at 5 and they have just took off!
Got a Aquaero coming next week so i will be putting up flowrates when its installed.

Consumption has gone up from 23w to 37w


----------



## kcuestag

Here it is:



I know it doesn't look anywhere as good as before, but with the temperature improvements I got while everything is being used at [email protected] I could care less. I'll probably just buy an XSPC dual bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it a bit cleaner, other than that I have no plans on changing anything, maybe adding another 3 fans to the external rad for push/pull.


----------



## samoth777

hi guys i have a problem. my ek dcp 4.0 pump started rattling a few days ago. its attached to a ek combo res. the problem is i cant get the allen screws out because the top of one of the screws is worn and the allen wrench wont bite. basically i cant open it open up the pump and check whats causing the rattle







any advice?


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> hi guys i have a problem. my ek dcp 4.0 pump started rattling a few days ago. its attached to a ek combo res. the problem is i cant get the allen screws out because the top of one of the screws is worn and the allen wrench wont bite. basically i cant open it open up the pump and check whats causing the rattle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any advice?


It probably won't work with allens but try placing an elastic band over the screw head and try undoing it like that.

Here's a guide if you're unsure of what I mean.

http://lifehacker.com/5462520/remove-a-stripped-screw-with-a-rubber-band


----------



## KaRLiToS

*Kcuestag*, have you tried one loop versus two loop?

You can buy a Koolance RP-452x2 for Dual loop Reservoir as a bay reservoir, it would be my first choice for dual loop.

http://koolance.com/rp-452x2-dual-5-25in-reservoir-for-1-2-pmp-450-s-pumps


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> No paper, LIKE A BOSS!
> hahaha, Clean look


Haha, I just checked it before I left for work, and no leaks. I'll leave it running while I'm at work and shut it off when I get home. ;D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look anywhere as good as before, but with the temperature improvements I got while everything is being used at [email protected] I could care less. I'll probably just buy an XSPC dual bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it a bit cleaner, other than that I have no plans on changing anything, maybe adding another 3 fans to the external rad for push/pull.


Maybe down the road you could get some L-brackets to mount the rad on the back of the case? What are you're temps? Also, I would recommend the res, @karlitos suggested.


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look anywhere as good as before, but with the temperature improvements I got while everything is being used at [email protected] I could care less. I'll probably just buy an XSPC dual bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it a bit cleaner, other than that I have no plans on changing anything, maybe adding another 3 fans to the external rad for push/pull.


Just a few thoughts :


Definitely switch to a bay style res/pump combo instead of using 2 seperate res's etc - it will make the mobo area look cleaner and less cluttered.
Consider rerouting the tubing that returns back to the res so it doesn't go across the radiator. If it does go across the top of the radiator, at least make it worth looking at (like THIS)
Spin the rad so the barbs are under the drive bays (if possible) so that the tubing can be better hidden inside the lower part of the drive bay. If not, consider one of the crossflow radiators that have the in/out barbs at different ends of the radiator
Use the same size tubing - it looks much better that way


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Haha, I just checked it before I left for work, and no leaks. I'll leave it running while I'm at work and shut it off when I get home. ;D
> Maybe down the road you could get some L-brackets to mount the rad on the back of the case? What are you're temps? Also, I would recommend the res, @karlitos suggested.


Yeah you need to mount that 360 somewhere else.... Koolance makes these brackets.


----------



## kcuestag

Might as well change my case, but money is tight, so at the moment it's a no go, plus I wouldn't want to buy new radiator, I like the 540mm I have.









But if I do, it would probably be a NZXT Switch 810, I heard it can fit a 360mm and 240mm without any modding, that would be good enough for me, plus I like the looks, I am a bit tired of having a 90º sided case.









Thoughts?


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Might as well change my case, but money is tight, so at the moment it's a no go, plus I wouldn't want to buy new radiator, I like the 540mm I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if I do, it would probably be a NZXT Switch 810, I heard it can fit a 360mm and 240mm without any modding, that would be good enough for me, plus I like the looks, I am a bit tired of having a 90º sided case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


I love my switch 810. I have a UT60 420 in the roof, a UT60 240 in the floor and a UT60 140 in the front with no modding. I can get push pull on all of the rads except the top one. If you want push pull on the top radiator make sure its 45mm or less thick. All in all a great water cooling case.


----------



## crazyg0od33

I have push pull on the op with a 54mm SR1 and room to spare. Are yo sure you put the push (or pull) fans in the top compartment?


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> I have push pull on the op with a 54mm SR1 and room to spare. Are yo sure you put the push (or pull) fans in the top compartment?


Yep. Your right though, a 54mm rad would work with push pull. I'm only like 3mm short with a 60mm thick rad. I had no idea someone made a 54mm thick rad that would work perfect.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I love my switch 810. I have a UT60 420 in the roof, a UT60 240 in the floor and a UT60 140 in the front with no modding. I can get push pull on all of the rads except the top one. If you want push pull on the top radiator make sure its 45mm or less thick. All in all a great water cooling case.


Were you able to place the 420mm rad without any kind of modding?

I don't want to do ANY modding, I want a case that will fill my needs, which probably is a 360mm and a 240mm rad, maybe even a 120mm in the back exhaust.


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Yep. Your right though, a 54mm rad would work with push pull. I'm only like 3mm short with a 60mm thick rad. I had no idea someone made a 54mm thick rad that would work perfect.


Black Ice SR1 360mm


----------



## CiBi

Just mounted my new reservoir in my new case









Check out my build log for more pictures (link below)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just mounted my new reservoir in my new case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my build log for more pictures (link below)


Perfect, that's the case I'm looking to buy, I'll follow your build log.


----------



## YowZ

is that a switch 810?


----------



## crazyg0od33

yes it is. love the case.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *Kcuestag*, *have you tried one loop versus two loops?*
> 
> You can buy a Koolance RP-452x2 for Dual loop Reservoir as a bay reservoir, it would be my first choice for dual loop.
> 
> http://koolance.com/rp-452x2-dual-5-25in-reservoir-for-1-2-pmp-450-s-pumps


*kcuestag*?

EDit: By the way I got the Switch 810 for my brother like 6 months ago and he's very happy with it.

I will probably get the DWood switch 810 extension pedestal for him since he want more rad space and more GPUs











Spoiler: Switch 810 Pedestal!


----------



## kcuestag

I saw that reservoir, but instead of spending more money into this case, I think I'll go for a different case.

That pedestal extension looks nice! Although I'd be fine by how it comes by stock since I plan on using this current EK CoolStream XT360 on push/pull on the top and I'd buy a 240mm to do pushpull as well, or maybe just pull, don't know yet.

My only concern is, does the NZXT Switch 810 fit a triple 120mm rad like the EK CS XT360 without any modding on the top? I don't want to do any modding, I want the case to arrive, and install everything, that's it.









Also planning to add a 240mm (dual 120mm) on the bottom next to the PSU.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecializedPro*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, have now managed to add 2nd Rad and fans to bottom of my 800D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First fake watercooling loop. Short story is the H80 lines had a leak mid line and I figured I'd just do this vs waiting weeks to RMA it.
> 
> Testing out of the case
> 
> 
> First time mounted
> 
> 
> Installed and running


I would get Apogee Drive II Unit -



instead of corsair's a crappy pump/block unit if I were you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *Kcuestag*,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> have you tried one loop versus two loop?
> 
> You can buy a Koolance RP-452x2 for Dual loop Reservoir as a bay reservoir, it would be my first choice for dual loop.
> 
> http://koolance.com/rp-452x2-dual-5-25in-reservoir-for-1-2-pmp-450-s-pumps


Yes I'm very happy with it without any regrets since 4.16.2012!

Absolutely I highly recommending this to WC Shoppers and WC Builders...


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I saw that reservoir, but instead of spending more money into this case, I think I'll go for a different case.
> 
> That pedestal extension looks nice! Although I'd be fine by how it comes by stock since I plan on using this current EK CoolStream XT360 on push/pull on the top and I'd buy a 240mm to do pushpull as well, or maybe just pull, don't know yet.
> 
> My only concern is, does the NZXT Switch 810 fit a triple 120mm rad like the EK CS XT360 without any modding on the top? I don't want to do any modding, I want the case to arrive, and install everything, that's it.


Is that just a 360mm rad? If so, yeah it'll fit no modding


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> Is that just a 360mm rad? If so, yeah it'll fit no modding


I want to put a 360mm rad on the top with push/pull fans AP-15's and then a 240mm on the bottom with 4 push/pull fans as well.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I want to put a 360mm rad on the top with push/pull fans AP-15's and then a 240mm on the bottom with 4 push/pull fans as well.


You can do that without modding, no problem.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> You can do that without modding, no problem.


Great, time to save money (AKA Sell stuff







) to buy it!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I saw that reservoir, but instead of spending more money into this case, I think I'll go for a different case.
> 
> That pedestal extension looks nice! Although I'd be fine by how it comes by stock since I plan on using this current EK CoolStream XT360 on push/pull on the top and I'd buy a 240mm to do pushpull as well, or maybe just pull, don't know yet.
> 
> My only concern is, does the NZXT Switch 810 fit a triple 120mm rad like the EK CS XT360 without any modding on the top? I don't want to do any modding, I want the case to arrive, and install everything, that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also planning to add a 240mm (dual 120mm) on the bottom next to the PSU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I want to put a 360mm rad on the top with push/pull fans AP-15's and then a 240mm on the bottom with 4 push/pull fans as well.


The EK XT360 will fit in the top of the NZXT switch 810 no problem. I am using the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45(45mm thick) and I have about 1cm of clearance from the bottom of my fan to the top of my motherboard. So you should get about 8mm clearance.


----------



## dumbazz

Anything from a rag to epoxy a donor square drive in it. drill and use an easy-out.
We don`t let them get away with that!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> The EK XT360 will fit in the top of the NZXT switch 810 no problem. I am using the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45(45mm thick) and I have about 1cm of clearance from the bottom of my fan to the top of my motherboard. So you should get about 8mm clearance.


Is that with 6 fans at push/pull or just 3 at push? If possible, I'd like to do push/pull.


----------



## crazyg0od33

It depends on your motherboard. I've got a thicker rad than both of you in push pull and I have plenty of clearance for the motherboard. Not even close. I've seen people with 60mm thick rads in push pull no problems, so I have no clue what motherboard only has 8mm clearance with a 45mm rad?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is that with 6 fans at push/pull or just 3 at push? If possible, I'd like to do push/pull.


If you don't do push/pull in the Switch 810 you do Pull as the case is designed to have fans in the top and the rad mounts underneath them.

If you want Push/Pull it is doable with a 60mm rad, however you really are better off cutting out the metal plate in the 5.25" drive bay so the fan gets some airflow

You can do the 80mm Monsta Rad in just pull also.


----------



## YowZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> yes it is. love the case.


good man, i often wish I'd bought that instead of the phantom.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is that with 6 fans at push/pull or just 3 at push? If possible, I'd like to do push/pull.


Yes that is with 6 fans push pull. One set of fans is actually located outside the chassis and just under the top cover.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> It depends on your motherboard. I've got a thicker rad than both of you in push pull and I have plenty of clearance for the motherboard. Not even close. I've seen people with 60mm thick rads in push pull no problems, so I have no clue what motherboard only has 8mm clearance with a 45mm rad?


With a 45-47mm thick radiator it doesn't matter what motherboard you have. You will always have clearance. The only time that comes into effect is with a 60mm radiator(and usually in the 420mm) in which the fans will actually sit about 2-3 mm past the top of the motherboard in which the vrm heatsink and 8pin cpu power are sometimes in the way. I'd imagine on some boards even with the 360mm flavor the VRM's can get in the way if they are situated AT THE VERY TOP of the motherboard, in which case some are. I don't know what you are getting at but I can't make it any more clear then that.

here is a picture for example. There is 1cm of clearance from the bottom of my fans to the top of my motherboard. See how the VRM heatsink would be in the way if I went with 60mm? 60-45 = 15mm. I have 1 cm clearance.


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks!

I decided already, next purchase will be a NZXT Switch 310 together with a 240mm rad to watercool my rig with the current EK CoolStream XT360 I'm using externally.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> .


Everytime I see this build and the colors


----------



## Meisseli

Hey guys!

Having a bit of hard time thinking of all the past things i've been reading so i have one question for you all

Currently my setup is as follows: i5-3570k 4.5ghz delidded and now going strong with coollaboratory ultra, 7970 @ 1240/1600 1.3v. I'm Running these with 1 360mm slim (30mm), 240mm (60mm) and a ek dcp 4.0... My temps are now pretty good...

I'm about to add a 7950 to my loop with some pretty 1150/1500 1.3v overclocks which are steady or even higher.

So my question is do you think that my rad Space is enough for all those three heaters? Or do i have to add more rad? I would like to run my fans at min from my bitfenix fan controller (fans are bitfenix spectre pro)...

Thanks to you all in advance for your input!

Meisseli


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Having a bit of hard time thinking of all the past things i've been reading so i have one question for you all
> 
> Currently my setup is as follows: i5-3570k 4.5ghz delidded and now going strong with coollaboratory ultra, 7970 @ 1240/1600 1.3v. I'm Running these with 1 360mm slim (30mm), 240mm (60mm) and a ek dcp 4.0... My temps are now pretty good...
> 
> I'm about to add a 7950 to my loop with some pretty 1150/1500 1.3v overclocks which are steady or even higher.
> 
> So my question is do you think that my rad Space is enough for all those three heaters? Or do i have to add more rad? I would like to run my fans at min from my bitfenix fan controller (fans are bitfenix spectre pro)...
> 
> Thanks to you all in advance for your input!
> 
> Meisseli


Create a thread and link it here please,this is the Picture thread,its not for specific technical inquires.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I decided already, next purchase will be a NZXT Switch 310 together with a 240mm rad to watercool my rig with the current EK CoolStream XT360 I'm using externally.


310? You are talking about the 810 right? Anyways it's a awesome looking case. Good luck


----------



## XPclassified

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Everytime I see this build and the colors


Nice theme


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks!
> I decided already, next purchase will be a NZXT Switch 310 together with a 240mm rad to watercool my rig with the current EK CoolStream XT360 I'm using externally.


You can just go all out and get a 420 60mm rad in p/p on top and a 280 60mm rad on the bottom in p/p and call it a day. I know you don't want to mod, but it'll be easy to do.


----------



## Janac

in progress


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Create a thread and link it here please,this is the Picture thread,its not for specific technical inquires.


Dohh... Should have thought that before posting, Thanks B neg.

But heres the link for the thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1351194/watercooling-i5-3570k-7970-7950-sufficient-rad-space
(Sorry for that fugly long link!)

Meisseli


----------



## crazyg0od33

You have 3 water cooled builds!?!?!? Wow. That's a lot of money!!
Haha


----------



## Janac

Nobody comment my rig?


----------



## YowZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Nobody comment my rig?


nice rig bro









only joking, it does look quite nice. I'd be a bit of a hypocrite if I didn't think it looked nice, its basically the same colour scheme as mine xD. what blocks and rads are you using?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> You can just go all out and get a 420 60mm rad in p/p on top and a 280 60mm rad on the bottom in p/p and call it a day. I know you don't want to mod, but it'll be easy to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What kind of modding does it need to fit a 4x120mm rad? Honestly, I don't think I'd do it though, money is very tight so I'd probably go with the current EK CoolStream XT360 that I have plus a 240mm on the bottom.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> You can just go all out and get a 420 60mm rad in p/p on top and a 280 60mm rad on the bottom in p/p and call it a day. I know you don't want to mod, but it'll be easy to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of modding does it need to fit a 4x120mm rad? Honestly, I don't think I'd do it though, money is very tight so I'd probably go with the current EK CoolStream XT360 that I have plus a 240mm on the bottom.
Click to expand...

Come on man,set a thread up and link it,its not hard.....


----------



## crazyg0od33

I believe the op says this is a place for pictures and advice on parts to get, etc. I don't think anyone else is really all that annoyed by the questions...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> I believe the op says this is a place for pictures and advice on parts to get, etc. I don't think anyone else is really all that annoyed by the questions...


Advice on parts,yes.

Pages and pages of loop questions,no.

Its off topic and adds to my workload.

Asking you to add a link to your thread with questions keeps this thread clean and on topic and generates traffic for your own thread.


----------



## dumbazz

Yes real nice and 15 you say?
Good Luck
& no quote sorry
no smilefaces either.
But gotta love you guys!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Come on man,set a thread up and link it,its not hard.....


You are right, sorry.









I need some suggestions for water cooling my future NZXT Switch 810: http://www.overclock.net/t/1351215/watercooling-a-nzxt-switch-810-suggestions

Thanks


----------



## Johnny Utah

Wouldn't it be easier just to keep all discussion out? Then there's no question about what discussion is and isn't allowed and the thread can just be a real gallery of builds.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Come on man,set a thread up and link it,its not hard.....
> 
> 
> 
> You are right, sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need some suggestions for water cooling my future NZXT Switch 810: http://www.overclock.net/t/1351215/watercooling-a-nzxt-switch-810-suggestions
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Be there in a minute...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> Wouldn't it be easier just to keep all discussion out? Then there's no question about what discussion is and isn't allowed and the thread can just be a real gallery of builds.
> 
> Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


Discussion about past,present and future parts is great and is part of the club aspect. Good debate about parts and first hand experience of them is invaluable.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Purpose:*
> 
> I want this thread to exist for 2 purposes. The first purpose is so that we can all enjoy the sheer beauty and power of water cooling. The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.


Taken from the first post. *"The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.*" That can be defined broadly but to me, as long as it is about watercooling, then it is on topic. I wouldn't mind wading through this thread to update it, I read every post anyways and I'm on everyday. I could take over.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Purpose:*
> 
> I want this thread to exist for 2 purposes. The first purpose is so that we can all enjoy the sheer beauty and power of water cooling. The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taken from the first post. *"The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.*" That can be defined broadly but to me, as long as it is about watercooling, then it is on topic. I wouldn't mind wading through this thread to update it, I read every post anyways and I'm on everyday. I could take over.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Im not retiring,thanks for the offer tho.

Link your problem threads here and we will come to you.


----------



## dumbazz

Try Home brewed silver sheet isn`t that much. Like raw tube!


----------



## PinzaC55

I'm going to tread cautiously here... another poster commented on my Phobya fans and I mentioned that I was going to change my Aerocool Shark 140 mm because of its noise levels. I have used a Prolimatech Red Vortex 14 and it looks pretty good I think and certainly quieter though less powerful. I was thinking about painting every other fan blade black to simulate the Phobya fans but decided against it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Nice,simple loop....a chrome Raystorm too...Nice.


----------



## PinzaC55

TY....I wanted the Apogee Gold and found it but the seller had "listed it by mistake". To be fair though if I had got it, it would have needed gold or brass fittings which would have been a nightmare to colour coordinate.
The only slight problem I have with the Raystorm is that , like most "consumer" parts, it comes with a shedload of backplates and so on which I do not need and yet have to pay for. If I had the money I would set up a company supplying OEM products where you only got what you need.


----------



## Fonne

Dont think that we see much about new Bitspower products in shops, but think they make some really nice looking block









http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_20&products_id=3072&zenid=741b822327e69e935538d512a6dc686e



- Is there any that know the distance between the mounting holes on the D5 pump (Mounting plate) - Or a drawing about it ? (Thought it was a small ? to make a hole thread about)


----------



## KaRLiToS

Don't remember posting these here.



...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> TY....I wanted the Apogee Gold and found it but the seller had "listed it by mistake". To be fair though if I had got it, it would have needed gold or brass fittings which would have been a nightmare to colour coordinate.
> The only slight problem I have with the Raystorm is that , like most "consumer" parts, it comes with a shedload of backplates and so on which I do not need and yet have to pay for. If I had the money I would set up a company supplying OEM products where you only got what you need.


The backplates cost peanuts and it would cost more to have to separate SKU's for each plate type.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Dont think that we see much about new Bitspower products in shops, but think they make some really nice looking block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_20&products_id=3072&zenid=741b822327e69e935538d512a6dc686e
> 
> 
> 
> *- Is there any that know the distance between the mounting holes on the D5 pump (Mounting plate) - Or a drawing about it ? (Thought it was a small ? to make a hole thread about)*


Just grabbed my MC655 (D5) holes are ~ 41mm or 1 3/16" (1.1875) apart. Holes are 6mm or 1/4" If you need more info I can make a detailed drawing later.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Everytime I see this build and the colors


When coming from one of the most boss rigs on OCN.


----------



## Drake.L

@ Karlitos
I like that little peg you made there for your external rad


----------



## hammerforged

Started a new build if you all want to check it out







It might have a little bit of water flowing through it at some point









LINK


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Just grabbed my MC655 (D5) holes are ~ 41mm or 1 3/16" (1.1875) apart. Holes are 6mm or 1/4" If you need more info I can make a detailed drawing later.


Thanks







- If you dont mind, a simple drawing in Paint with some distance (mm) would be more then enought


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Don't remember posting these here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## oceanlyner

Finally got a waterblock for my second card, no more jet engine!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oceanlyner*
> 
> Finally got a waterblock for my second card, no more jet engine!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!


----------



## XPclassified

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oceanlyner*
> 
> Finally got a waterblock for my second card, no more jet engine!


nice and neat loop


----------



## dumbazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Don't remember posting these here.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now that's the way I want my projection system to look.
Sooo cool


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Just grabbed my MC655 (D5) holes are ~ 41mm or 1 3/16" (1.1875) apart. Holes are 6mm or 1/4" If you need more info I can make a detailed drawing later.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - If you dont mind, a simple drawing in Paint with some distance (mm) would be more then enought
Click to expand...

Oh Paint? eww... Let me re install CAD. I'll get you a good drawing.

Here it is:

Yellow lines are the plate. It was a bit rushed so it's not the best and Dimensions are kinda of hard to read but I wanted to blow them so you could see them.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The backplates cost peanuts and it would cost more to have to separate SKU's for each plate type.


That may be true but I find it irritating to be sitting on piles of boxes full of fittings and screws which I have no use for. When I got my GTX 690 it was in a plain cardboard box with none of the excess packaging which comes with such things. No poster, T-Shirt, discs, manual....


----------



## dumbazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> That may be true but I find it irritating to be sitting on piles of boxes full of fittings and screws which I have no use for. When I got my GTX 690 it was in a plain cardboard box with none of the excess packaging which comes with such things. No poster, T-Shirt, discs, manual....


We have a Thread for that big bang Bub


----------



## kevin7898

finally got my wires under some sort of control...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/airlinersonthenet/8395673649/
IMG_6276 by kevinstuparyk, on Flickr

except for the back, but nobody looks there anyway:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/airlinersonthenet/8396757328/
IMG_6272 by kevinstuparyk, on Flickr

they say an h70 counts lol
http://www.flickr.com/photos/airlinersonthenet/8395669459/
IMG_6259 by kevinstuparyk, on Flickr


----------



## kcuestag

Quick question regarding new Corsair fans, are the SP-120 and AF120 as good at same speeds for rads? I want to buy some buy only the AF-120 are on stock which have a max of like 1600RPM, while the SP120 have like 2200RPM, although I don't plan on going above 1500RPM, will they perform the same both at 1500rpm?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question regarding new Corsair fans, are the SP-120 and AF120 as good at same speeds for rads? I want to buy some buy only the AF-120 are on stock which have a max of like 1600RPM, while the SP120 have like 2200RPM, although I don't plan on going above 1500RPM, will they perform the same both at 1500rpm?


The SP's have a better static pressure rating and will edge it in rad performance.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The SP's have a better static pressure rating and will edge it in rad performance.


Thanks! That's what I wanted to hear.









Last question, SP120 at 1850rpm or GEntle Typhoon at 1850rpm? Which one is better and/or quieter?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question regarding new Corsair fans, are the SP-120 and AF120 as good at same speeds for rads? I want to buy some buy only the AF-120 are on stock which have a max of like 1600RPM, while the SP120 have like 2200RPM, although I don't plan on going above 1500RPM, will they perform the same both at 1500rpm?


I would go with Scythe GT if I can IMHO
I read a review (cant remember where) about some air loss in between the fan casing because of the funny shape of SP/AF (for not being perfectly square)
though SP/AF have the look


----------



## kcuestag

Ordered some Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM, thanks guys, I do promise a lot of quality pictures once my new NZXT Switch 810 arrives and I get the loop installed!!


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> It probably won't work with allens but try placing an elastic band over the screw head and try undoing it like that.
> 
> Here's a guide if you're unsure of what I mean.
> 
> http://lifehacker.com/5462520/remove-a-stripped-screw-with-a-rubber-band


it wont work







im doomed huh?


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> it wont work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im doomed huh?


Gotta take a drill to it. Same thing happened with my video card when I was trying to install my waterblock. I stripped a screw and and had to drill it out. It is a bit nerve racking though, but take your time and start small! You can do it


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Ordered some Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM, thanks guys, I do promise a lot of quality pictures once my new NZXT Switch 810 arrives and I get the loop installed!!


Switch 810:thumb:
Scythe GT's:thumb:
Although the RV-02 is a nice case, the Switch will be so much easier for you to get those rads in there!
I "collected" about a dozen AP-15's (GT's) when they were on sale, for my build, and one thing I like about the Typhoons is their build quality, compared to many other fans on the market.
Looking forward to seeing your "case-swap" when its done


----------



## kyismaster




----------



## cky2k6

Got my 3rd gpu under water, unfortunately couldn't find the acetal ek 7970 block I had anymore, gonna have to use a bunch of angled fittings later on, for now this is its temporary look before I dismantle it entirely and finally have the case painted, like I planned a year ago







The primer it shipped with has held up pretty well.


And the planned upgrades once I find a time to paint my case:







Yeah, I know I'm cheating by getting extensions, but I value my sanity and express my admiration for those patient enough to go through with custom sleeving.


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*


Omg, that is so beautiful. It's such a shame you won't be able to see it, unless you have an rotated case?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Switch 810:thumb:
> Scythe GT's:thumb:
> Although the RV-02 is a nice case, the Switch will be so much easier for you to get those rads in there!
> I "collected" about a dozen AP-15's (GT's) when they were on sale, for my build, and one thing I like about the Typhoons is their build quality, compared to many other fans on the market.
> Looking forward to seeing your "case-swap" when its done


Should have everything here by tuesday-wednesday, I'll make sure I post some pictures comparing the change to the new case.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Got my 3rd gpu under water, unfortunately couldn't find the acetal ek 7970 block I had anymore, gonna have to use a bunch of angled fittings later on, for now this is its temporary look before I dismantle it entirely and finally have the case painted, like I planned a year ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primer it shipped with has held up pretty well.
> 
> Yeah, I know I'm cheating by getting extensions, but I value my sanity and express my admiration for those patient enough to go through with custom sleeving.


That rad is so sexy!








Get some pic up when done


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Should have everything here by tuesday-wednesday, I'll make sure I post some pictures comparing the change to the new case.


I thought that you said (and many times) that money was tight lol!









GL on your new purchase and i hope that you finally solve all your problems with regards to heat and neatness


----------



## XPclassified

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Got my 3rd gpu under water, unfortunately couldn't find the acetal ek 7970 block I had anymore, gonna have to use a bunch of angled fittings later on, for now this is its temporary look before I dismantle it entirely and finally have the case painted, like I planned a year ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primer it shipped with has held up pretty well.
> 
> 
> And the planned upgrades once I find a time to paint my case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I know I'm cheating by getting extensions, but I value my sanity and express my admiration for those patient enough to go through with custom sleeving.


Nice parts


----------



## OverClocker55

OH MY GAWD, Learn to resize those pictures and use spoilers!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> OH MY GAWD, Learn to resize those pictures and use spoilers!


He seems to be new, why dont you help him


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> OH MY GAWD, Learn to resize those pictures and use spoilers!


LOL more like THAT RESOLUTION LOL looks smaller than 800 x 600
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Omg, that is so beautiful. It's such a shame you won't be able to see it, unless you have an rotated case?












maybe i should just use a pci-e extender and tilt my gpu and mount it sideways.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Got my 3rd gpu under water, unfortunately couldn't find the acetal ek 7970 block I had anymore, gonna have to use a bunch of angled fittings later on, for now this is its temporary look before I dismantle it entirely and finally have the case painted, like I planned a year ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primer it shipped with has held up pretty well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the planned upgrades once I find a time to paint my case:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I know I'm cheating by getting extensions, but I value my sanity and express my admiration for those patient enough to go through with custom sleeving.


You'll love those 2150 rpm typhoons. I have 6 in my build that I got from the group buy on here. I have them running at 1200 rpm right now and they are damn near silent and still move a ton of air


----------



## Mr357

Well, I was hoping to join this club in a day or two, but I just opened up my order to find that the radiator was missing. Even if customer service is painless it'll be several days at least.


----------



## cky2k6

Was it performance-pcs by any chance? Had that happen once, luckily for me, the box they shipped it in couldn't even fit the radiator that was checked off on the packing slip







It was resolved quickly, although at first they couldn't believe nothing shipped with a checkmark on the slip.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Was it performance-pcs by any chance? Had that happen once, luckily for me, the box they shipped it in couldn't even fit the radiator that was checked off on the packing slip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was resolved quickly, although at first they couldn't believe nothing shipped with a checkmark on the slip.


I had that happen to me as well. I ordered a ccfl kit and when they opened it to sleeve the wires they forgot to put the inverter back in the box. I contacted them and they shipped it out the next day


----------



## Alex132

Sign me up?


































Also, is it normal for sort-of condensation to occur inside the res?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Was it performance-pcs by any chance? Had that happen once, luckily for me, the box they shipped it in couldn't even fit the radiator that was checked off on the packing slip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was resolved quickly, although at first they couldn't believe nothing shipped with a checkmark on the slip.


Yes! This is exactly it. I'd ordered a Raystorm EX360 kit, and the word "radiator" was used in the title at least twice. I don't understand how it was overlooked. Worst part is that I've got monday free, so I was planning to use the whole day to work on my rig, but now I won't have everything until at least wednesday, and won't get much of a chance to work on it til saturday. First world problems.

It's pretty sad to hear that this has happened before. If I have any trouble with customer service I won't buy from them again.


----------



## socketus

If you can imagine the volume of business that PPCS and FCPU - the 2 most mentioned w/c etailers to my eyes - I've had missing or wrong orders with both companies, I don't sweat it, but then I have the time to wait, tho it doesn't make it any easier !


----------



## Hokies83

Sidewinder has the best prices but frozen cpu has the best stock.

How ever i did find this beauty at sidewinder computers for 2$ snagged 6 of them lol.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsqu12fancas.html


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> If you can imagine the volume of business that PPCS and FCPU - the 2 most mentioned w/c etailers to my eyes - I've had missing or wrong orders with both companies, I don't sweat it, but then I have the time to wait, tho it doesn't make it any easier !


Usually i'd agree, but when something is time sensitive, i'd hope everything is in order.

I had such bad experiences Don't even get me started lol.

How do you get circle scratch marks around the 1/4 holes, inside of a vacuum sealed bag, I smelled a re-seal.

their answer " I don't know what your talking about, you must have opened it, its not our problem anymore"

that was just a major -facepalm- to me.

act like i've never seen a refurb block before

secondly, that same block was missing some thermal pads for the VRMS lol, so fishy.


----------



## XPclassified

Im thinking of getting a XSPC kit aswell


----------



## Alex132

Gotta say that I absolutely LOVE the rad! I could run this thing passive and not worry about even getting warm with my CPU.

And the XSPC tubing is good for using it for draining, filling, flushing the loop etc. It turns yellow pretty darn fast though.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Sign me up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is it normal for sort-of condensation to occur inside the res?


How has no one responded to this yet? Those are some sexy af pics


----------



## Roder J

I like it! very clean not blinding with frilly stuff looks very dark and conservative:thumb:


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Sign me up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is it normal for sort-of condensation to occur inside the res?


Beautiful lighting! Great pictures!
Condensation in the reservoir is normal by the way.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> How has no one responded to this yet? Those are some sexy af pics


Because they have been enhanced and altered to look better than they are, but they still look nice though.


----------



## Hokies83

Just looks like a very basic system to me unless im missing something?

Anywho Bah i need 2 more 90s why they gotta cost soooo much...

Got Fannnnnssss??


----------



## PinzaC55

It would be kinda (sick) fun to see a flock of birds fly into that on full power!


----------



## mr one

Ummm guys oredering from bitspower shop has some kinda shipping costs calculation thing? Oh also why they arent listed a lithuania in "choose country"


----------



## RKTGX95

any opinions on *this block*?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







only problem for me is that it's available ONLY from BP's site (i.e. additional item to be shipped to Israel aside of the main loop order







)


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Oh Paint? eww... Let me re install CAD. I'll get you a good drawing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> Yellow lines are the plate. It was a bit rushed so it's not the best and Dimensions are kinda of hard to read but I wanted to blow them so you could see them.


Thanks, great help









(Has made a offer on a D5 yesterday, hope to win the auction







)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> any opinions on *this block*?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only problem for me is that it's available ONLY from BP's site (i.e. additional item to be shipped to Israel aside of the main loop order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


BP GPU blocks are not the best performing blocks out there,hence why you rarely see them.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> How has no one responded to this yet? Those are some sexy af pics


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roder J*
> 
> I like it! very clean not blinding with frilly stuff looks very dark and conservative:thumb:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Beautiful lighting! Great pictures!
> Condensation in the reservoir is normal by the way.


Thanks for that








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> How has no one responded to this yet? Those are some sexy af pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because they have been enhanced and altered to look better than they are, but they still look nice though.
Click to expand...

Nope, 100% unaltered


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> BP GPU blocks are not the best performing blocks out there,hence why you rarely see them.


but they have some aesthetics though.

btw, how is it going with that alphacool block you've ordered? (and the whole build in general)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> BP GPU blocks are not the best performing blocks out there,hence why you rarely see them.
> 
> 
> 
> but they have some aesthetics though.
> 
> btw, how is it going with that alphacool block you've ordered? (and the whole build in general)
Click to expand...

Just put the log up today,check the WC threads.

Got to finish this customer build before i go charging in and there could be some hardware coming too.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Time to share photos!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sold my Raystrom and get DD M6, added second fan to the 120 rad, and made the loop tidier (to my eyes at least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> Also, now I'm using the Primochill Advanced tubing, hopefully it won't plasticize like the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean & Stealthy!...


----------



## mandrix

Been a while since I posted in here.


My home made fan stickers for the AP-15's:


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Been a while since I posted in here.
> 
> 
> My home made fan stickers for the AP-15's:


You should post more often, nice rig man.

Really love the homemade stickers and the painting on the radiators.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hey everyone i'm about to buy some coolant on monday and
was wondering what amount has everyone used in their loops?
not sure how much to order. thinking 2 liters should be well enough.
my loops is
250mm res -->d5 pump -->480 Monsta Rad--> RX360 rad -->4 - Ram-33 blocks
-->CPU 370 block -->GPU-->z77 chipset block then back to res.(have to add that step
still to diagrahm. but you get the point lol..)

but yeah i'm thinking 2 liters is good enough..


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

So I had an old EK gtx 690 backplate that I wasn't using because of a few scratches. I took the anodizing colour off by using a dish scrub pad and easy off. Sanded a bit after it was done. Polished it a bit also. The first two pics are without any polishing:






Probably polish it a little bit more. Now something matches the ram.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

^ that looks half way decent,I kinda like it.

If you want an easy way of removing anodizing then use oven cleaner,spray on and leave for 5 mins....the anodizing just wipes off with a cloth.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Thanks Bneg.









I used Easy Off oven cleaner. I seen a couple people do it on youtube and they said don't leave it on too long or it will eat the aluminum. I'm sure they meant longer than 5 minutes though!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice setup *Mr.TooShort*. Great job on the backplate. Do you have some cooling over your RIVE VRMs?

And how do you like that RAM? Aesthetically, it's an awsome set.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> So I had an old EK gtx 690 backplate that I wasn't using because of a few scratches. I took the anodizing colour off by using a dish scrub pad and easy off. Sanded a bit after it was done. Polished it a bit also. The first two pics are without any polishing:
> 
> Probably polish it a little bit more. Now something matches the ram.


MrTOOSHORT maybe you could answer me a question; how high does the backplate rise off the GTX 690? I don't want to hack my 690 up but I would like one of these for aesthetics and I have limited clearance between the 690 and the Northbridge.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Nice setup *Mr.TooShort*. Great job on the backplate. Do you have some cooling over your RIVE VRMs?
> 
> And how do you like that RAM? Aesthetically, it's an awsome set.


I have just case airflow over the VRMs and also my ambient is low as my computer room is in the basement. The Ram looks alright and it clocks really great. I still have my old Corsair GT ram that I think look sweeter imo, oldschool!









Also got my 3960x back from RMA and it clocks a tad better than the 3970x. Still testing the 3960x.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> MrTOOSHORT maybe you could answer me a question; how high does the backplate rise off the GTX 690? I don't want to hack my 690 up but I would like one of these for aesthetics and I have limited clearance between the 690 and the Northbridge.


I took a measurement just now. It's just shy of 5mm from the top of the pcb to the top of the backplate.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Thanks Bneg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used Easy Off oven cleaner. I seen a couple people do it on youtube and *they said don't leave it on too long or it will eat the aluminum*. I'm sure they meant longer than 5 minutes though!


It will eat it like i eat apple pie if left too long,most sodium hydroxide products have a warning about that


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> I took a measurement just now. It's just shy of 5mm from the top of the pcb to the top of the backplate.


Thanks I have about 7mm so I can just squeeze one in


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey everyone i'm about to buy some coolant on monday and
> was wondering what amount has everyone used in their loops?
> not sure how much to order. thinking 2 liters should be well enough.
> my loops is
> 250mm res -->d5 pump -->480 Monsta Rad--> RX360 rad -->4 - Ram-33 blocks
> -->CPU 370 block -->GPU-->z77 chipset block then back to res.(have to add that step
> still to diagrahm. but you get the point lol..)
> 
> but yeah i'm thinking 2 liters is good enough..


2 liters might be close. I have a 225ml res, 2 gpu blocks, cpu block, 480 rad, and 240 rad and I used distilled water from the store and used just over half a gallon, which is just about 2 liters. Might want to order 3 just to be safe. Or just get a gallon of plain ol' distilled from any grocery or drug store


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> So I had an old EK gtx 690 backplate that I wasn't using because of a few scratches. I took the anodizing colour off by using a dish scrub pad and easy off. Sanded a bit after it was done. Polished it a bit also. The first two pics are without any polishing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably polish it a little bit more. Now something matches the ram.


That looks good.... EK should take notes.... Classy looking 800D. Not all bunched up, looks good & performs great! Hats Off!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> So I had an old EK gtx 690 backplate that I wasn't using because of a few scratches. I took the anodizing colour off by using a dish scrub pad and easy off. Sanded a bit after it was done. Polished it a bit also. The first two pics are without any polishing:
> 
> 
> 
> Probably polish it a little bit more. Now something matches the ram.


That's a pretty clean rig you got there.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> You should post more often, nice rig man.
> 
> Really love the homemade stickers and the painting on the radiators.


Thanks!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> You can just go all out and get a 420 60mm rad in p/p on top and a 280 60mm rad on the bottom in p/p and call it a day. I know you don't want to mod, but it'll be easy to do.


Very Nice rig, my brother needs to update his NZXT 810 Switch soon. He has no knowledge on PC overclocking/cooling so I'm the employee









I want to know, what bay/res/pump combo have you chosen?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Thanks, I appreciate the positive comments guys.


----------



## EMUracing

This is my first custom watercooled setup. I did a good deal of research, but didnt want to do the normal 120mm setups.

I wanted to use the Phobya 400 radiator, so I did extensive research looking for a case, and came up with the HAF-XM case.
I had seen the HAF-X case used with this radiator before, but never the XM. I feel that the XM may be a better choice, if not one of the best choices out of all the cases that I looked at.

This was my plan to start with:









And eventually when I WC my GPU:









Test fit of the 2x180mm Silverstone fans








Would have been perfect for a 180.2 radiator, but the Phobya has a little space between the fans...

Test fir of rad on top of the case:









Test assembly of the waterblock:









Top cut out (was going to cut more, but had to rush to get this assembled to test a friends mobo on with it)









Leak testing, using RC PSU to power the Swiftech Maeltorm 35X bayres/pump









Assembled:








Dont mind the PSU wiring, this is not my motherboard, and was only tested and OC'd for my buddy who is building his first PC with it.

I had to do some shaving on the fans to be sure that they cleared the motherboard. My maximum water temps are 33c full load (i7 920 1.43v), with ambient around 27c and fans running at 5v. I always run the pump at 37.5 or 50%.

Equipment planned/used for finished build:
XSPC Raystorm
Phobya 400 radiator
Phobya 200 radiator
Swiftech Maelstorm 35x pump/reservoir
Monsoon fittings
XSPC tubing
Distilled water w/silver Monsoon plug
EK 90/45 adapters where needed.

This was a fun build, and is not completed, I just needed to make it operational a little early.. The top cover with a little modification does fit over the radiator.

I just got my 2011 motherboard in, need CPU and vid card (as the Radeon in the picture is going with the MSI board).

Hope you guys like it, was a real learning experience.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Very Nice rig, my brother needs to update his NZXT 810 Switch soon. He has no knowledge on PC overclocking/cooling so I'm the employee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to know, what bay/res/pump combo have you chosen?


Thanks man. I used THIS for the res and THIS for the pump.









I did a stealth mod, so it's nice and clean in the front.


----------



## chann3l

Ghetto rad fan grill cut from 500r side panel mesh


----------



## zubzero689

well here is my new mods update

new rad now i have a 120 and my old 240

new window

my new home made desk,built it with my dad, and new 23" monitor and the old 21.5"


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> This is my first custom watercooled setup. I did a good deal of research, but didnt want to do the normal 120mm setups.
> 
> I wanted to use the Phobya 400 radiator, so I did extensive research looking for a case, and came up with the HAF-XM case.
> I had seen the HAF-X case used with this radiator before, but never the XM. I feel that the XM may be a better choice, if not one of the best choices out of all the cases that I looked at
> 
> I had to do some shaving on the fans to be sure that they cleared the motherboard. My maximum water temps are 33c full load (i7 920 1.43v), with ambient around 27c and fans running at 5v. I always run the pump at 37.5 or 50%.
> 
> Equipment planned/used for finished build:
> XSPC Raystorm
> Phobya 400 radiator
> Phobya 200 radiator
> Swiftech Maelstorm 35x pump/reservoir
> Monsoon fittings
> XSPC tubing
> Distilled water w/silver Monsoon plug
> EK 90/45 adapters where needed.
> 
> This was a fun build, and is not completed, I just needed to make it operational a little early.. The top cover with a little modification does fit over the radiator.
> 
> I just got my 2011 motherboard in, need CPU and vid card (as the Radeon in the picture is going with the MSI board).
> 
> Hope you guys like it, was a real learning experience.


Maybe not a good choice of case? Heres what Bit Tech had to say about it http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2012/09/24/cooler-master-haf-xm-review/1
With the key phrase "Water coolers looking for a hassle-free build would probably benefit from choosing the HAF X, as there's no support for triple radiators here. The similarly priced Antec Dark Fleet DF-85 has better CPU and GPU cooling, although obviously it's a much larger case - if your budget is hovering around £100 and you don't have room for a full tower, the HAF XM could still be a good buy if you're prepared to add an extra fan or two to help with GPU cooling."


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Antec Dark Fleet? That case is garbage.....


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You can just go all out and get a 420 60mm rad in p/p on top and a 280 60mm rad on the bottom in p/p and call it a day. I know you don't want to mod, but it'll be easy to do.










.... Your rig is soo beautiful!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> well here is my new mods update


Very great cable management for that case







Great build.


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Maybe not a good choice of case? Heres what Bit Tech had to say about it http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2012/09/24/cooler-master-haf-xm-review/1
> With the key phrase "Water coolers looking for a hassle-free build would probably benefit from choosing the HAF X, as there's no support for triple radiators here. The similarly priced Antec Dark Fleet DF-85 has better CPU and GPU cooling, although obviously it's a much larger case - if your budget is hovering around £100 and you don't have room for a full tower, the HAF XM could still be a good buy if you're prepared to add an extra fan or two to help with GPU cooling."


As you can see, I already have the case, and modded the top to fit a 400x200mm radiator... I am putting a 200x200mm radiator in the front of the case next time I tear it down... Also, with 2x180mm fans on top (170+ cfm each), airflow is not really a problem, and a 200mm 150cfm fan on the side and the front, takes care of GPU cooling without a problem. If I put a business card on top of the case, it is blown away by the 180mm Air Penetrators at 7v, and that is through the rad...

From what I can tell, the review of the case posted at bit-tech was done without adding any fans, just as it comes, which I feel does it a severe injustice. Also, I have seen triple 120 radiators up top without needing much work. I am very pleased with the results of my build, and I honestly dont think that the HAF-X is a better case for the Phobya 400.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> You can just go all out and get a 420 60mm rad in p/p on top and a 280 60mm rad on the bottom in p/p and call it a day. I know you don't want to mod, but it'll be easy to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I already purchased the case, I'll be using an EK CoolStream XT360 and a 240mm on the bottom, both in push/pull.









I can't afford more or better rads for now, but I don't discard buying a better 360mm and 240mm rads in future, and definitely an XSPC Dual Bay plexi reservoir to use with my D5.


----------



## Hokies83

Snagged a Frozen Q 250ML fusion res BNIB for 60$ shipped..

Now i just need 2 90s and 2 45s and im done heh heh @[email protected]


----------



## chann3l

Repositioned the fans into pull config, better static pressure and it leaves more room on the inside if I want to add a 120 rad on the rear
Also moved the hdd cage up and 3m taped the cathode power converter underneath to hide it


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> As you can see, I already have the case, and modded the top to fit a 400x200mm radiator... I am putting a 200x200mm radiator in the front of the case next time I tear it down... Also, with 2x180mm fans on top (170+ cfm each), airflow is not really a problem, and a 200mm 150cfm fan on the side and the front, takes care of GPU cooling without a problem. If I put a business card on top of the case, it is blown away by the 180mm Air Penetrators at 7v, and that is through the rad...
> 
> From what I can tell, the review of the case posted at bit-tech was done without adding any fans, just as it comes, which I feel does it a severe injustice. Also, I have seen triple 120 radiators up top without needing much work. I am very pleased with the results of my build, and I honestly dont think that the HAF-X is a better case for the Phobya 400.


I already have a 360 rad in my HAF-X. I was merely thinking that the HAF-X actually feels a little cramped so the HAF-XM would feel more so? Each to his own though.


----------



## chann3l

Have a question. Currently running an ex240 have my 3770k at 4.6 GHz hottest core on very high Intel burn test hits 80 on idle my hottest core is 30. I don't plan on wc my gpu because it's oced fairly high and under full load only hits 54 degrees. I'm just wondering if the temp difference would be worth it to add a 120 rad in the rear for additional CPU cooling.


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> well here is my new mods update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very great cable management for that case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great build.
Click to expand...

thanks it has been a work in progress for a while now i tinker with it all the time


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I already purchased the case, I'll be using an EK CoolStream XT360 and a 240mm on the bottom, both in push/pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't afford more or better rads for now, but I don't discard buying a better 360mm and 240mm rads in future, and definitely an XSPC Dual Bay plexi reservoir to use with my D5.


Whenever you do have the chance to get some better rads, I would suggest going with a 420 (3x140) for the top!
Surface Area Comparisons (Roughly):
360 (120x3) - 43,200sq-mm
480 (120x4) - 57,600sq-mm
420 (120x3) - 58,800sq-mm

Assuming 32mm-Across fan hubs...
360 - 40,146
480 - 53,528
420 - 55,746

That's the effective area used...


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I already have a 360 rad in my HAF-X. I was merely thinking that the HAF-X actually feels a little cramped so the HAF-XM would feel more so? Each to his own though.


I've got a 360 in my haf xm. You can see it in my sig.

modding the 400x200 rad in the XM is pretty amazing. Never would've dreamed of trying to do that. great mod!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Whenever you do have the chance to get some better rads, I would suggest going with a 420 (3x140) for the top!
> Surface Area Comparisons (Roughly):
> 360 (120x3) - 43,200sq-mm
> 480 (120x4) - 57,600sq-mm
> 420 (120x3) - 58,800sq-mm
> 
> Assuming 32mm-Across fan hubs...
> 360 - 40,146
> 480 - 53,528
> 420 - 55,746
> 
> That's the effective area used...


Can it fit a 420mm (3x140) without any kind of modding? Again I'm not a very handy person so I don't want to mod the case at all.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I already purchased the case, I'll be using an EK CoolStream XT360 and a 240mm on the bottom, both in push/pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't afford more or better rads for now, but I don't discard buying a better 360mm and 240mm rads in future, and definitely an XSPC Dual Bay plexi reservoir to use with my D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whenever you do have the chance to get some better rads, I would suggest going with a 420 (3x140) for the top!
> Surface Area Comparisons (Roughly):
> 360 (120x3) - 43,200sq-mm
> 480 (120x4) - 57,600sq-mm
> 420 (120x3) - 58,800sq-mm
> 
> Assuming 32mm-Across fan hubs...
> 360 - 40,146
> 480 - 53,528
> 420 - 55,746
> 
> That's the effective area used...
Click to expand...

The surface are depends on FPI mainly,the face area is not even a quarter of the dissipation surface,the main dissipation is from the fins,this is the surface area you need to measure.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Time to share photos!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sold my Raystrom and get DD M6, added second fan to the 120 rad, and made the loop tidier (to my eyes at least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> Also, now I'm using the Primochill Advanced tubing, hopefully it won't plasticize like the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean & Stealthy!...
Click to expand...

Thanks!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Sign me up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is it normal for sort-of condensation to occur inside the res?


Very nice pictures!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The surface are depends on FPI mainly,the face area is not even a quarter of the dissipation surface,the main dissipation is from the fins,this is the surface area you need to measure.


Surely when swept / face area is used as a comparison, it goes without saying, since it's already assumed, that the relative merrits accept all else as being equal.

Darlene


----------



## longroadtrip

New res arrives this week..then it's on to the pipe...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The surface are depends on FPI mainly,the face area is not even a quarter of the dissipation surface,the main dissipation is from the fins,this is the surface area you need to measure.
> 
> 
> 
> Surely when swept / face area is used as a comparison, it goes without saying, since it's already assumed, that the relative merrits accept all else as being equal.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

But its not all equal,surface area changes massively between FPI and total depth,using just the face area to determine dissipation will not even give you ballpark figures. Its like being given a picture of someones head then being asked to tell how tall he/she is.

The best way to determine the rads effectiveness is real world testing,the variables are just too great.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But its not all equal,surface area changes massively between FPI and total depth,using just the face area to determine dissipation will not even give you ballpark figures. Its like being given a picture of someones head then being asked to tell how tall he/she is.
> 
> The best way to determine the rads effectiveness is real world testing,the variables are just too great.


What I meant by all else being equal was that the surface area comparison was valid when comparing rads of like thickness, fpi, etc., and that most folks just factor that in without specifically mentioning it when making area comparisons.


----------



## IT Diva

edit, double post,

dunno what happened


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But its not all equal,surface area changes massively between FPI and total depth,using just the face area to determine dissipation will not even give you ballpark figures. Its like being given a picture of someones head then being asked to tell how tall he/she is.
> 
> The best way to determine the rads effectiveness is real world testing,the variables are just too great.
> 
> 
> 
> What I meant by all else being equal was that the surface area comparison was valid when comparing rads of like thickness, fpi, etc., and that most folks just factor that in without specifically mentioning it when making area comparisons.
Click to expand...

I see where you are coming from,I agree if its apples to apples comparison. You may struggle to get that however.


----------



## Crooksy

Is the plasticizer an issue with the Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT tubing?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Is the plasticizer an issue with the Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT tubing?


Sorry to say but its one of the worst offenders,the advanced is supposed to sort it.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Is the plasticizer an issue with the Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to say but its one of the worst offenders,the advanced is supposed to sort it.
Click to expand...

Ah thanks for letting me know. I can't seem to find some decent tubing in the UK!


----------



## SeD669

Mine looks horrible but I thought I would include it anyway


----------



## Garming

About to configure my set up. What is the cleanest setup with the res coming out of the 5.25 bay you guys have ever seen? Trying to find ideas on how to minimize that awkward tubing stretching across my mobo and into the 5.25 bay.


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would get Apogee Drive II Unit -
> 
> 
> 
> instead of corsair's a crappy pump/block unit if I were you.


The eventual goal is to build a real loop at some point, but with a kid on the way it was either salvage a leaking H80 unit like I did or go out and buy a cheap assed air cooler for what I have into this setup. I originally bought the H80 because I had it all shoved into an Antec 300 case taht didn't have a way to mount a 240 rad or i'd have the H100 at the very least if not a real water setup. Very interested in some of the new units like the Swifttech that is modular and the pump is capable of operating a cpu and dual gpu loop which would match my system great.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> About to configure my set up. What is the cleanest setup with the res coming out of the 5.25 bay you guys have ever seen? Trying to find ideas on how to minimize that awkward tubing stretching across my mobo and into the 5.25 bay.


You could get an x-flow radiator so that there is one fitting on either end. Assuming the rad is mounted in the top of the case, one fitting would be above the CPU and the other near the 5.25" bays. X-flow radiator typically don't perform as well though since they are only single pass. Or run one of the tube behind the motherboard tray if there is room. I'm currently doing that in my current loop and like how much cleaner it looks without tubes crossing all over the place.
BTW, nice avatar. Are you a fellow Bengals fan as well?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> The eventual goal is to build a real loop at some point, but with a kid on the way it was either salvage a leaking H80 unit like I did or go out and buy a cheap assed air cooler for what I have into this setup. I originally bought the H80 because I had it all shoved into an Antec 300 case taht didn't have a way to mount a 240 rad or i'd have the H100 at the very least if not a real water setup. Very interested in some of the new units like the Swifttech that is modular and the pump is capable of operating a cpu and dual gpu loop which would match my system great.


duct tape


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You could get an x-flow radiator so that there is one fitting on either end. Assuming the rad is mounted in the top of the case, one fitting would be above the CPU and the other near the 5.25" bays. X-flow radiator typically don't perform as well though since they are only single pass. Or run one of the tube behind the motherboard tray if there is room. I'm currently doing that in my current loop and like how much cleaner it looks without tubes crossing all over the place.
> BTW, nice avatar. Are you a fellow Bengals fan as well?


Ah, too bad I already purchased my ex240 kit. I guess I'll just browse as much of the 3k pages on here to see if I find any inspiration.

Yeah, I am. Eight years and counting.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey *morencyam*, can we see some pictures of your build?? I love your avatar (which I assume is your build)

Jeffinslaw


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey *morencyam*, can we see some pictures of your build?? I love your avatar (which I assume is your build)
> 
> Jeffinslaw


It has changed a little bit since theses pictures. I am currently running a mcp655 instead of the dual mcp350's, I have an 120gb OCZ Agility instead of the Crucial, and I have changed the radiator fans to 2150rpm Gently Typhoons that I painted orange. Everything else is the same though.


----------



## Rivis

Hi, finally i got the courage to go for my first custom water loop









http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/338/sam2005l.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/sam2007x.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/sam2008.jpg/

Now i have to wait for the 7950´s adaptors to arrive...


----------



## chann3l

I've asked this a few pages back but nobody answered im running my 3770k at 4.6 GHz and my hottest core stays below 80 with Intel burn test on very high and 30 on idle. I don't plan on adding my 7950 to the loop because under a fairly high oc under full load it only hits 54 degrees. In wondering tho how much cooler my CPU would run with an added 120 rad on the rear in conjunction with my ex 240. Is it worth it?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> I've asked this a few pages back but nobody answered im running my 3770k at 4.6 GHz and my hottest core stays below 80 with Intel burn test on very high and 30 on idle. I don't plan on adding my 7950 to the loop because under a fairly high oc under full load it only hits 54 degrees. In wondering tho how much cooler my CPU would run with an added 120 rad on the rear in conjunction with my ex 240. Is it worth it?


Probably shave 5'C. Worth it is up to you.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It has changed a little bit since theses pictures. I am currently running a mcp655 instead of the dual mcp350's, I have an 120gb OCZ Agility instead of the Crucial, and I have changed the radiator fans to 2150rpm Gently Typhoons that I painted orange. Everything else is the same though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rivis*
> 
> Hi, finally i got the courage to go for my first custom water loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/338/sam2005l.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/sam2007x.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/sam2008.jpg/
> 
> 
> Now i have to wait for the 7950´s adaptos to arrive...


Good luck and keep up posted.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have to agree with the above statement


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> I've got a 360 in my haf xm. You can see it in my sig.
> 
> modding the 400x200 rad in the XM is pretty amazing. Never would've dreamed of trying to do that. great mod!


Thanks. I really needed a good project, and this turned out very well. A little extreme for my first WC setup, but Im glad that I went this route.

It took a lot of planning and viewing case video's to see what cases would be able to do it with the least amount of work. I narrowed it down to the HAF-XM and one or two cases based on the size of the top cover, and width/length of the case. From outside of the case, it looks completely stock, which is what I was going for.


----------



## Rivis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck and keep up posted.


Thank you! I will


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I would have to agree with the above statement


Thanks guys! Hopefully I will switching over to my scratch built case in about a month or so


----------



## XPclassified

Looking good


----------



## mr one

Umm guys what is better:
1. To have silver kill coil in loop plus anticorrosive thing in distiled water
2, Premixed coolant
Kinda hard to decide, maybe i only gonna need to have silver kill coil? or anticorrosive stuff is alse must have thing?


----------



## XPclassified

+1 on Distiled water


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPclassified*
> 
> +1 on Distiled water


So the first one is better?


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Probably shave 5'C. Worth it is up to you.


I'll have to think about that not sure if 50 dollars is worth 5 degrees especially when my temps are already really good.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Umm guys what is better:
> 1. To have silver kill coil in loop plus anticorrosive thing in distiled water
> 2, Premixed coolant
> Kinda hard to decide, maybe i only gonna need to have silver kill coil? or anticorrosive stuff is alse must have thing?


Distilled. And you really only need either the kill coil or some other form of antimicrobial additive.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Distilled. And you really only need either the kill coil or some other form of antimicrobial additive.


Oh great, gonna order coil and put it in the res, had thinking on thoose premixed but hey add a good amount of cash to the shipping







also could i use some UV thing if kill coil is in the loop?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Oh great, gonna order coil and put it in the res, had thinking on thoose premixed but hey add a good amount of cash to the shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also could i use some UV thing if kill coil is in the loop?


I'm somewhat unsure on that. Some of the UV additives I think contain antimicrobial already. I believe mayhems additives have it so a kill coil is not needed. I'm just running straight distilled with a kill coil. I would wait for others to chime in on that for sure though. You can go to the Mayhems club and ask there, they would know better than I do


----------



## mr one

Ummm i see no mayhems products on the watercooling.uk shop....


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Ummm i see no mayhems products on the watercooling.uk shop....


Getting UV reactive tubing is also an option


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Love the pictures *morencyam*. I like the UV!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## morencyam

Thanks Jeff! That MurderMac case mod you're working on is looking pretty B-A. I too love the G5 and Mac Pro cases. I though about buying a Lian Li V1000 before I got my 700D because of how much they look like Mac cases. Can't wait to see how that one turns out


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Getting UV reactive tubing is also an option


Nah i had chosen a clear tubing for first time with water cooling


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Nah i had chosen a clear tubing for first time with water cooling


There is clear tubing that is also UV reactive. I think the only option is clear/ UV blue though


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Ummm i see no mayhems products on the watercooling.uk shop....


Go to Specialtech.com,far better than WCUK...


----------



## LiquidHaus

silver ingots or bust.


have had zero plasticizer problems running just distilled with the ingots.
the only time i had a tube plasticize, it was tube i used prior running an accidental mix of heavy vinegar-distilled though it. since i changed the tube, absolutely no problems - and thats with primochill's non-advanced lrt tubing. been about 5 months now.

anywho, i really need to finish this thing


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go to Specialtech.com,far better than WCUK...


specialtech is great. I ordered my tubing from there since the only other orange tubing I could find was either the wrong shade orange or red/UV orange. They shipped quick and responded to my emails very quickly as well


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go to Specialtech.com,far better than WCUK...


Um why its better than wcuk?

Tried to see that page but got 404 error


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go to Specialtech.com,far better than WCUK...
> 
> 
> 
> Um why its better than wcuk?
> 
> Tried to see that page but got 404 error
Click to expand...

Sorry,wrong addy. http://www.specialtech.co.uk/
Cheaper. Next day delivery. Held stock and second to none CS


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry,wrong addy. http://www.specialtech.co.uk/
> Cheaper. Next day delivery. Held stock and second to none CS


Oh thank you, ummm its kinda hard to believe that they could deliver my goods next day to lithuania









Edit: yeap almost same shipping costs as wcuk







but they have a alphacool 240mm slim rad


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


The white BP fittings are growing on me more and more


----------



## XPclassified

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> silver ingots or bust.
> 
> 
> have had zero plasticizer problems running just distilled with the ingots.
> the only time i had a tube plasticize, it was tube i used prior running an accidental mix of heavy vinegar-distilled though it. since i changed the tube, absolutely no problems - and thats with primochill's non-advanced lrt tubing. been about 5 months now.
> 
> anywho, i really need to finish this thing


Nice rig


----------



## dumbazz

Nice stuff People
at this day and age you people should have been gods.

One note though. Trying to kill algae in a pond you bombard it with uv light.

The gods the gods the gods a rockin roll machine!


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Um why its better than wcuk?
> 
> Tried to see that page but got 404 error


I have used 4 suppliers; Specialtech, WCUK, C&C Central and Overclock. The only I have to say is that on WCUK they appear to have translated many of their product descriptions from German and the results are, frankly, often gibberish. It reminds me of the Fast Show sketch "Julio Geordio" where he alternates between Spanish and broad Geordie http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_DhiWGoFts


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Um why its better than wcuk?
> 
> Tried to see that page but got 404 error
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have used 4 suppliers; Specialtech, WCUK, C&C Central and Overclock. The only I have to say is that on *WCUK they appear to have translated many of their product descriptions from German* and the results are, frankly, often gibberish. It reminds me of the Fast Show sketch "Julio Geordio" where he alternates between Spanish and broad Geordie http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_DhiWGoFts
Click to expand...

Its because they are an Aquatuning feed company,hence the 3 day delivery at high prices.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It has changed a little bit since theses pictures. I am currently running a mcp655 instead of the dual mcp350's, I have an 120gb OCZ Agility instead of the Crucial, and I have changed the radiator fans to 2150rpm Gently Typhoons that I painted orange. Everything else is the same though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


sweet batman jesus, it glows with the like the embers of the nether.


----------



## morencyam

Haha I'm guessing that's a good thing? That's only with a single 12" UV cathode too. I want to add another 12" but don't know where to put it. I don't it visible with the side panel on so none of the light bleeds out, so that kind of limits my options a little bit. I'll probably end up waiting for my case upgrade to add another one though.


----------



## XPclassified

Nice 700D


----------



## HPE1000

Just brainstorming and not crazy serious about it but still, I would like suggestions for a not so expensive watercooling setup with a dual 120 radiator, gtx670 reference(short pcb) waterblock with the fittings required, compression fittings maybe, pump, res, tubing, everything. I dont need a cpu block yet as I will continue running it on my AIO watercooler.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Just brainstorming and not crazy serious about it but still, I would like suggestions for a not so expensive watercooling setup with a dual 120 radiator, gtx670 reference(short pcb) waterblock with the fittings required, compression fittings maybe, pump, res, tubing, everything. I dont need a cpu block yet as I will continue running it on my AIO watercooler.


That's what I originally thought. £400 ($630) later... Parts list spec'd up for CPU and GPU cooling.


----------



## Rivis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Haha I'm guessing that's a good thing? That's only with a single 12" UV cathode too. I want to add another 12" but don't know where to put it. I don't it visible with the side panel on so none of the light bleeds out, so that kind of limits my options a little bit. I'll probably end up waiting for my case upgrade to add another one though.


Why don´t you try with a UV Led strip, they are way easier to fit...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rivis*
> 
> Why don´t you try with a UV Led strip, they are way easier to fit...


i recommend phobya uv strips


----------



## dumbazz

Not too Off topic I Hope.
On E-Bay now.
Real artful

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crazy-Custom-Computer-Incredible-Hulk-Inspired-Perfect-Kid-Child-Teen-System-/221114409087?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item337b72207f


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rivis*
> 
> Why don´t you try with a UV Led strip, they are way easier to fit...


I was actually leaning that way. I'll probably wait until I finish the case I'm building though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i recommend phobya uv strips


----------



## Hokies83

Has anyone tried the phobya 45s and 90s? there like 7$ vs bits power 19$


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Just brainstorming and not crazy serious about it but still, I would like suggestions for a not so expensive watercooling setup with a dual 120 radiator, gtx670 reference(short pcb) waterblock with the fittings required, compression fittings maybe, pump, res, tubing, everything. I dont need a cpu block yet as I will continue running it on my AIO watercooler.


Well you're looking at ~$250 for a pump, gpu block and 240 rad. Add a little more for tubing and another $25-$50 for a reservoir.

So let's say $300 just to cool your GPU.

My suggestion is go with the Swiftech AIO kit for $140. Add a GPU block for $100 and a second 240 radiator for $50.

That's ~$300 too and you have a full loop. You may want to use a separate res if you don't like the integrated res on the Swiftech AIO kit.


----------



## chann3l

3770k at 4.6 ghz Maximum temps during intel burn test on max stress level for 10 runs. (Not the current temp readings but the maximums listed below)


----------



## XPclassified

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> 3770k at 4.6 ghz Maximum temps during intel burn test on max stress level for 10 runs. (Not the current temp readings but the maximums listed below)


Nice temps! Mine was around 81c at 4.8 before i De-lidded it


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPclassified*
> 
> Nice temps! Mine was around 81c at 4.8 before i De-lidded it


Thanks im thinking of adding an additional 120mm rad in conjunction with my ex240 see if I can go even lower. Thought about delidding too but im not sure how


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Thanks im thinking of adding an additional 120mm rad in conjunction with my ex240 see if I can go even lower. Thought about delidding too but im not sure how


More cooling might not help you much since the bottleneck is getting heat from the die to the IHS rather than from the IHS to the liquid.


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> That's what I originally thought. £400 ($630) later... Parts list spec'd up for CPU and GPU cooling.


Lol yup. I completed my first loop earlier this month. I told myself, how expensive can this be?! Adding part after part into the cart, it totaled $720! That was AFTER I decided to save money by using barbs instead of compression fittings. It would have originally been 620$ but at the last minute, I decided to get 6 AP-15s. I figured if i'm going to do this once, I rather do it right and not have to dish out more money down the line if I ever want to upgrade something.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> More cooling might not help you much since the bottleneck is getting heat from the die to the IHS rather than from the IHS to the liquid.


that makes sense actually because my water temps are 27 degrees when leaving the pump and thats the highest it goes its 23 on idle and my ambient temps are 23. I guess delidding would be my best bet. Anyone know how easy it is? I guesss I could do both the extra rad will keep water temps down if I do delid


----------



## socketus

[Official] Delidded Ivy Bridge Club


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> [Official] Delidded Ivy Bridge Club


Thanks for the link


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> silver ingots or bust.


LOL I thought about dropping one of my eagles in my res originally... but with black tubing, system under my desk, me being a vampire and shutting my system down while I'm sleeping during the day, and hating natural sunlight in my office... I figure I'm fine with 2 drops of PT Nuke.

Smallest ingots I have are 10oz... so they won't fit anyway.







Still like the look on that though!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumbazz*
> 
> Not too Off topic I Hope.
> On E-Bay now.
> Real artful


LOL! Oh wait... I thought you said "Real AWFUL!"... Seeing that rig made me throw up in my mouth a little... but then again I guess if I was a 10yr old boy I might like it.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Lol yup. I completed my first loop earlier this month. I told myself, how expensive can this be?! Adding part after part into the cart, it totaled $720! That was AFTER I decided to save money by using barbs instead of compression fittings. It would have originally been 620$ but at the last minute, I decided to get 6 AP-15s. I figured if i'm going to do this *once*, I rather do it right and not have to dish out more money down the line if I ever want to upgrade something.


Not being harsh but, we'll see how it goes after couple of months...
since I said that to myself 6 months ago and I'm on my second makeover


----------



## kcuestag

Quick question, EK CoolStream XT480 or Black Ice SR1 480? I've been offered either of them for exchange of my current case that I'm selling, those rads could come very handy, specially if I can place them on the top part of my new NZXT Switch 810.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

SR-1 ,great rad!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> SR-1 ,great rad!


Thanks, the deal is not confirmed, but we'll see if I can get it, would be nice.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question, EK CoolStream XT480 or Black Ice SR1 480? I've been offered either of them for exchange of my current case that I'm selling, those rads could come very handy, specially if I can place them on the top part of my new NZXT Switch 810.


A 480 will fit, but you'll def need to mod it. I would have modded this case to fit the 480, but It was a buddy of mine and he opted for a 420 rad.

Just skip to the 480 part.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Opinions?




Will add GPU to the loop after I upgrade to a 670 4GB or whatever the equivalent will be at around March.

Tubing has some slack, mainly so I could pull the res out enough to fill it, but I left a bit too much >.<
I want to fix the return tubing from rad to res by making it more rigid and straight along the bottom of the case. Not sure how I want to go about doing that just yet.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will add GPU to the loop after I upgrade to a 670 4GB or whatever the equivalent will be at around March.
> 
> Tubing has some slack, mainly so I could pull the res out enough to fill it, but I left a bit too much >.<
> I want to fix the return tubing from rad to res by making it more rigid and straight along the bottom of the case. Not sure how I want to go about doing that just yet.


Looks really nice. I really like the lighting


----------



## gotmilkmang

Well ill post mine up. I wouldn't be able to finally do it without stalking here for awhile, and I still have to get a new rad and redo the tubing.


----------



## gotmilkmang

Well I don't know why my photo is upside down...stupid iPhone


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question, EK CoolStream XT480 or Black Ice SR1 480? I've been offered either of them for exchange of my current case that I'm selling, those rads could come very handy, specially if I can place them on the top part of my new NZXT Switch 810.


I thought you didn't want to mod your case?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotmilkmang*
> 
> Well ill post mine up. I wouldn't be able to finally do it without stalking here for awhile, and I still have to get a new rad and redo the tubing.


Looks good from here dude


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question, EK CoolStream XT480 or Black Ice SR1 480? I've been offered either of them for exchange of my current case that I'm selling, those rads could come very handy, specially if I can place them on the top part of my new NZXT Switch 810.


See my reply in the 810 thread about putting the SR1 in the 810.

A 480 takes wayyyyy more modding than a 420 to fit it in an 810, and apples to apples in thickness and fpi, the 420 has a slight edge anyway.

Like I said, there's a lot of good info in my 810 buildlog about putting a 420 in the top of an 810.

The SR1, even though all the holes match up, is still more trouble to install than drilling 8 new holes for a 420 with 15mm fan to fan spacing.

Going with a 45mm thick rad insures that you'll have no clearance issues with P-P fans at the top of the mobo.

Some 60mm thick rads interfere with the EPS 8pin connector and the mosfet's heatsinks.

Darlene


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question, EK CoolStream XT480 or Black Ice SR1 480? I've been offered either of them for exchange of my current case that I'm selling, those rads could come very handy, specially if I can place them on the top part of my new NZXT Switch 810.


I would also seriously consider the EK CoolStream XTX models. They are a good step up from the XT and are similar in specs to the Black Ice SR-1 but with a few added features. The XTX have duel in/out ports on each side, plus a drain plug in the bottom, the Black Ice do not. It gives you more mounting options for the XTX too by having access to the ports from both sides. Personally, this is what I am going with, the XTX, to replace my SR-1 models.

Good luck


----------



## gotmilkmang

[quote name="PinzaC55"
Looks good from here dude







[/quote]

Thanks


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## mr one

Just got robbed on that apogee drive 350... kinda feeling that not going to make custom loop


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Just got robbed on that apogee drive 350... kinda feeling that not going to make custom loop


Apongee Drive II is one of the best blocks out there and the mcp 35x is one of the best pumps i do not see how u were robbed?


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Apongee Drive II is one of the best blocks out there and the mcp 35x is one of the best pumps i do not see how u were robbed?


Apogee Drive II and Apogee Drive 350 are two different things.

Apogee Drive II is made from Swiftech's best block and pump.

Apogee Drive 350 did not use Swiftech's best block or pump at the time (although the pump could be modded to run at 18w).

Not to mention the Apogee GT and MCP 350 are pretty outdated by now. They can still do the job, but there's better stuff out there.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Anyone have a build with the Watercool HK 680 blocks and backplates? Thinking I might get those since EK uses the butt ugly 1970's modern furniture design on everything now.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Anyone have a build with the Watercool HK 680 blocks and backplates? Thinking I might get those since EK uses the butt ugly 1970's modern furniture design on everything now.


Can't go wrong w/ HK


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Can't go wrong w/ HK


Yeah their new black/chrome blocks really are impressive. Just need to picture how it would blend with the whole build. Still a shame EK butchered their look. Oh well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


>


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> Opinions?


Man the new EK frosted acrylic looks super nice. Them crop circles, on the other hand...









Oh and Werm, BTW, I flagged your quote as porn







(kidding)


----------



## valvehead

My 580 is finally under water!










I also redid several things in my loop (new pump, new res, etc.). I hope to have my build log and rig list updated this weekend.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Looks really nice. I really like the lighting


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Man the new EK frosted acrylic looks super nice. Them crop circles, on the other hand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and Werm, BTW, I flagged your quote as porn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (kidding)


Thanks guys









And lol I actually kinda like the crop circles XD
I can see how it'd be ugly on a larger surface like a GPU block tho.

Those HK blocks look great.. damn


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


So naughty...


----------



## Roder J

Well Thanks to Covert Ash I now have the res. I wanted just gotta get pumps. considering porting the flow passages a bit as the do look a little restrictive, could definately improve flow. next on my list is looking like an XSPC cpu block and want to find some cool G1/4 to 1/4 NPT adapters, havent seen any good looking adapters yet..
JJ


----------



## Crooksy

I think that I'm the only one who likes the look of the newer EK stuff. I have a feeling that my build won't be too popular!


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I think that I'm the only one who likes the look of the newer EK stuff. I have a feeling that my build won't be too popular!


I like it! But in small quantities. I couldn't deal with a GPU backplate covered in what reminds me of tea stains.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I think that I'm the only one who likes the look of the newer EK stuff. I have a feeling that my build won't be too popular!


Looking forward to seeing your build then. I need to decide whether I want an EK block or HK block for my GPU after I upgrade and add it to my loop.


----------



## conwa

Yeah Finally!!!

My Dell Ultrasharp U2711 arrived

Some pictures of my setup (sorry, crappy iphone camera)


----------



## Crooksy

I will be buying my parts next week hopefully and will show you all then!


----------



## n3gr0

Hi guys!, this is my first loop!! i hope you like


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Apongee Drive II is one of the best blocks out there and the mcp 35x is one of the best pumps i do not see how u were robbed?


That shop i ordered took my money and didnt said that they are out of stock and now im gonna get something like their shop piggyt bank money instead of my refund ( also they suck in revievs of their shop a lot)


----------



## Hokies83

Order this one.. Side winder computers ship world wide.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swapdriiwipu.html


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I think that I'm the only one who likes the look of the newer EK stuff. I have a feeling that my build won't be too popular!


I personally love the look of CSQ design especially the frosty csq. I am too scared to purchase an EK product after their bout of crap a with the Electroless Nickel.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3gr0*
> 
> Hi guys!, this is my first loop!! i hope you like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it a lot! The lighting looks really good too.


----------



## Johnny Utah

Wasn't a fan of the CSQ design until I saw the Frosted CSQ in person. Looks great especially the way it reacts with LEDs. The entire block takes on a nice soft glow.


----------



## Hokies83

Mail man dropped a box off from Wermad full of these things? what to do with them hmmm...


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Mail man dropped a box off from Wermad full of these things? what to do with them hmmm...


Full of identical children. Hmm. Personally id put one up for adoption and keep the rest.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice rads Hokies83, lucky you. My girlfriend says your child is very cute.

(PS: I think there is a bubble gum stick under the table







)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Mail man dropped a box off from Wermad full of these things? what to do with them hmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Woot, woot!!!! Enjoy them man, these are supa' beasts. I'm hoping to get mine today if Fedex can hurry up. East coast ppl get their stuff first then us









Btw, the future of water cooling? Teach them while their young







My little one is inquisitive and sometimes it makes me nervous when she's around. But I'm looking forward to share with her of my obses....I mean, hobby























Moar pics!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Nice rads Hokies83, lucky you
> 
> (PS: I think there is a bubble gum stick under the table
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I'm suspecting the bubble gum sticker bandit has shown himself while the wc pr0n photo shoot







:thumb:


----------



## coolmiester

Eventually got the new Kingston HyperX Predator memory fitted along with a couple of the new XSPC Razor GTX680 (New Style) GPU blocks


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I think that I'm the only one who likes the look of the newer EK stuff. I have a feeling that my build won't be too popular!
> 
> 
> 
> I personally love the look of CSQ design especially the frosty csq. I am too scared to purchase an EK product after their bout of crap a with the Electroless Nickel.
Click to expand...

I read a lot about that and that's why I'm going with the acetal and copper components instead. They're a little cheaper which is a bonus.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually got the new Kingston HyperX Predator memory fitted along with a couple of the new XSPC Razor GTX680 (New Style) GPU blocks


Love the build! The only thing that *I* would add is GPU backplates of your choice!


----------



## wermad

I'll leave this here:


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys here's a few quick cruddy phone pics of the progress in my i820 build. Sorry for the bad quality. I'll take some better ones soon. This is a work in progress and is only about 30% done if that. I'm waiting on another 200mm rad for the front,white Avexir Core Series 2133 ram,G-Vans Legion Fan controller to hold me until the Tsunami comes out and a bunch of other things.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Eventually got the new Kingston HyperX Predator memory fitted along with a couple of the new XSPC Razor GTX680 (New Style) GPU blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Beautiful Pictures










Amazing!!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Hokies83

LoL what i got so far..


----------



## HPE1000

Nice!


----------



## Janac




----------



## LayerCakes

That's a lot of hardware for a 430W psu.


----------



## Fonne

Swiftech sure did a nice job with the H220:

http://www.overclockers.com/swiftech-h220-lcs-all-in-one-water-cooler-review


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> LoL what i got so far..


Oh my god, this is gonna be an awsome build. Do you have a build log Hokies?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'll leave this here:


Nice packaging Wermad







. I wish I was the receiver.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Nice packaging Wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I wish I was the receiver.


I is jelli of your quadies









Gonna jump on the 900D?


----------



## crazyg0od33

I'm waiting for a price drop on the 580 classys..then I may tri or quad-SLI them...


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Oh my god, this is gonna be an awsome build. Do you have a build log Hokies?
> Nice packaging Wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I wish I was the receiver.


Yah ima make a build log sometime today just wanted to get some stuff in first.

My G1 Sniper 3 is off to Gigabyte for RMA and im still waiting ona few things 3 more 45s and 1 more 90 And 1 400ML Frozen Q fusion helix res and 1 250 ML frozen Q Helix res.

This is about all i can do now.


----------



## mr one

How is this *cart* looks to you guys?







also maybe some companies has a FM2 compactible blocks for cpu?


----------



## Janac

i have also supreme LTX









why i have a foam in my reservoir and loop? Around 3cm.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yah ima make a build log sometime today just wanted to get some stuff in first.
> 
> My G1 Sniper 3 is off to Gigabyte for RMA and im still waiting ona few things 3 more 45s and 1 more 90 And 1 400ML Frozen Q fusion helix res and 1 250 ML frozen Q Helix res.
> 
> This is about all i can do now.


Honestly, this front panel with the triple 80mm thick Radiators is just jaw dropping









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I is jelli of your quadies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna jump on the 900D?


I'm jelly of your numerous builds, I don't have that chance to build so many rig.









Yes I will get the 900D.







. Have many great ideas in mind.

PS: Next post will be my 4,000th posts on my favorite web site.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> PS: Next post will be my 4,000th posts on my favorite web site.


I just hit the 1000 mark the other day. 4000 is quite the achievement lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Eventually got the new Kingston HyperX Predator memory fitted along with a couple of the new XSPC Razor GTX680 (New Style) GPU blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


2 CPU....FTW.


----------



## ejohnson

Since there is a dual cpu and dual gpu poster right there.

I have always wondered, is there much of a temp difference between the 2 cpus when linked like that?
I always thought the first cpu in the line would heat up the water making it not cool the second cpu not as well.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Anyone know (or tried) if the EK X79 UD7 waterblock (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/intel-x79/ek-fb-kit-ga-x79-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html) workds with the UD3, UD5 or the new UP4 and UP5?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ejohnson*
> 
> Since there is a dual cpu and dual gpu poster right there.
> 
> I have always wondered, is there much of a temp difference between the 2 cpus when linked like that?
> I always thought the first cpu in the line would heat up the water making it not cool the second cpu not as well.


The water moves so fast it doesn't matter really. At most a few *C differences (like 1~2)

Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ejohnson*
> 
> Since there is a dual cpu and dual gpu poster right there.
> 
> I have always wondered, is there much of a temp difference between the 2 cpus when linked like that?
> I always thought the first cpu in the line would heat up the water making it not cool the second cpu not as well.


There is always one chip warmer than the other,you tailor the loop flow to take advantage of that.

I have something similar except on mine,the GPU's get the flow first.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> How is this *cart* looks to you guys?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also maybe some companies has a FM2 compactible blocks for cpu?


Hi i would recommend not using uv red because its more like pink or orange depending on makers, and it dosent glow wery mutch compared to green or blue. and putt in a drain if you can make its so much nicer to do maintnenace, also a fill bottle is nice to have, the rest is good









ps: that block is fm2 compatible


----------



## nostra

i just finished my first loop, ive done it in a fractal design: Define R4 with some modding in the front for fitting a 280 thick rad and a mod on the res so it would fit where i wanted it..
 it still needs to be filled and i have to put some lighting in there aswell, but i think it should qualifys me for the club


----------



## Crooksy

I'm not sure whether to go for red Masterkleer or clear Tygon tubing and let the dye in the Mayhems X1 give the colour instead, what do you guys reckon would look best and last over time?


----------



## ejohnson

Dont think I posted my loop in here yet, but here is my micro cooled i5 3570k. It uses a corsair h50 pump and a 40x80mm radiator.

Keeps the temps the same as the stock air cooler did, but looks better.


----------



## dumbazz

It sure looks nice to me!


----------



## IT Diva

Wooooo . . . . . . Hooooooo

Back from the welding shop:

I took a vacation day so I could take this naughty girl to my tig guy, and I gotta say that for the time we worked and the perfect results we got, it's been about the best $100 I've spent so far.

I was really surprised, as that's about a third to half of what I expected based on the time we spent and the usual shop rate.

Anyway, I'll wait untill the weekend to dress the welds and clean things up a bit, but I just had to assemble the chassis and put in the rads to get an idea what I might want to do before I disassemble it to dress the welds and get some paint on the bare spots. I'll mark where the top chassis panel needs to be drilled for the plastic top to fit, and I need to relieve the top plastics for one of the top fans while I'm at it.

I was planning to put some aluminum angle along the rads to add some stiffening, but it's not going to be necessary, this sucker is rock solid and it's only got a few screws barely snug.

The boxed shape that NZXT uses along the edges of the top and bottom panels is incredibly strong, even lengthed out like this one is.

Everything just fits like a glove.

There's only 4 fans on the underside of the top rad, as there's not enough clearance above the motherboard, even for thin fans, but with 10 out of 12 fans, I doubt I'll be seriously conpromised.

I also have a thin, 20mm fan available for the rear most fan on the lower rad, in case I have a clearance issue with the 4th GPU.

Thought I'd share my excitement:

Darlene


----------



## prznar1

Phantom train version?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . . . . Hooooooo
> 
> Back from the welding shop:
> 
> I took a vacation day so I could take this naughty girl to my tig guy, and I gotta say that for the time we worked and the perfect results we got, it's been about the best $100 I've spent so far.
> 
> I was really surprised, as that's about a third to half of what I expected based on the time we spent and the usual shop rate.
> 
> Anyway, I'll wait untill the weekend to dress the welds and clean things up a bit, but I just had to assemble the chassis and put in the rads to get an idea what I might want to do before I disassemble it to dress the welds and get some paint on the bare spots. I'll mark where the top chassis panel needs to be drilled for the plastic top to fit, and I need to relieve the top plastics for one of the top fans while I'm at it.
> 
> I was planning to put some aluminum angle along the rads to add some stiffening, but it's not going to be necessary, this sucker is rock solid and it's only got a few screws barely snug.
> 
> The boxed shape that NZXT uses along the edges of the top and bottom panels is incredibly strong, even lengthed out like this one is.
> 
> Everything just fits like a glove.
> 
> There's only 4 fans on the underside of the top rad, as there's not enough clearance above the motherboard, even for thin fans, but with 10 out of 12 fans, I doubt I'll be seriously conpromised.
> 
> I also have a thin, 20mm fan available for the rear most fan on the lower rad, in case I have a clearance issue with the 4th GPU.
> 
> Thought I'd share my excitement:
> 
> Darlene
> 
> *snip*


Hoooooly crap.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Simply beautiful.







I've always like barbs over compression fittings since IMO they look less bulky, although that depends on what clamps you use. I prefer the ones Lamptron and Bitspower sell since they look really neat.



It does make it so this and the barb cost almost the same, if not a little less than a compression fitting (bitspower being both the maker of the barb and the compression fittings) but other than that, there's basically no difference, unless you want to include that negligible minor flow rate advantage a barb has over a compression fitting.


----------



## crazyg0od33

I think it all depends on the compression as well. for instance, bitspower compressions are the most bulky and ugly things ive seen, but the monsoon compressions are low profile and beautiful. I use those in my build


----------



## Alex132

Clamps are hard to put on, well the Lamptron ones were.
They barely go bigger than 1/2" so getting them past the barb seriously hurt my thumbs


----------



## Beakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . . . . Hooooooo
> 
> Back from the welding shop:
> 
> I took a vacation day so I could take this naughty girl to my tig guy, and I gotta say that for the time we worked and the perfect results we got, it's been about the best $100 I've spent so far.
> 
> I was really surprised, as that's about a third to half of what I expected based on the time we spent and the usual shop rate.
> 
> Anyway, I'll wait untill the weekend to dress the welds and clean things up a bit, but I just had to assemble the chassis and put in the rads to get an idea what I might want to do before I disassemble it to dress the welds and get some paint on the bare spots. I'll mark where the top chassis panel needs to be drilled for the plastic top to fit, and I need to relieve the top plastics for one of the top fans while I'm at it.
> 
> I was planning to put some aluminum angle along the rads to add some stiffening, but it's not going to be necessary, this sucker is rock solid and it's only got a few screws barely snug.
> 
> The boxed shape that NZXT uses along the edges of the top and bottom panels is incredibly strong, even lengthed out like this one is.
> 
> Everything just fits like a glove.
> 
> There's only 4 fans on the underside of the top rad, as there's not enough clearance above the motherboard, even for thin fans, but with 10 out of 12 fans, I doubt I'll be seriously conpromised.
> 
> I also have a thin, 20mm fan available for the rear most fan on the lower rad, in case I have a clearance issue with the 4th GPU.
> 
> Thought I'd share my excitement:
> 
> Darlene


One question... How are you going to get it off the table?


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


I'd like to see the length of your GPUs.


----------



## crazymofo

I need some advice from modders, do come into my thread & help me answer my question about cable wiring to leds. I have 0 knowledge in electrical... lol

http://www.overclock.net/t/1352821/urgent-electrical-engineer-need-your-help


----------



## famous1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . . . . Hooooooo


 That looks insane!


----------



## rebelnitro

I wish I have the moola to build some of the extreme extravagant computers we all see here.
Meanwhile here is my small yet humble custom computer.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelnitro*
> 
> I wish I have the moola to build some of the extreme extravagant computers we all see here.
> Meanwhile here is my small yet humble custom computer.


It looks awesome. You should use the rig builder so we can see what all you're working with.


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . . . . Hooooooo
> 
> Back from the welding shop:
> 
> I took a vacation day so I could take this naughty girl to my tig guy, and I gotta say that for the time we worked and the perfect results we got, it's been about the best $100 I've spent so far.
> 
> I was really surprised, as that's about a third to half of what I expected based on the time we spent and the usual shop rate.
> 
> Anyway, I'll wait untill the weekend to dress the welds and clean things up a bit, but I just had to assemble the chassis and put in the rads to get an idea what I might want to do before I disassemble it to dress the welds and get some paint on the bare spots. I'll mark where the top chassis panel needs to be drilled for the plastic top to fit, and I need to relieve the top plastics for one of the top fans while I'm at it.
> 
> I was planning to put some aluminum angle along the rads to add some stiffening, but it's not going to be necessary, this sucker is rock solid and it's only got a few screws barely snug.
> 
> The boxed shape that NZXT uses along the edges of the top and bottom panels is incredibly strong, even lengthed out like this one is.
> 
> Everything just fits like a glove.
> 
> There's only 4 fans on the underside of the top rad, as there's not enough clearance above the motherboard, even for thin fans, but with 10 out of 12 fans, I doubt I'll be seriously conpromised.
> 
> I also have a thin, 20mm fan available for the rear most fan on the lower rad, in case I have a clearance issue with the 4th GPU.
> 
> Thought I'd share my excitement:
> 
> Darlene


Mehhh... you probably could have added another on in there...


----------



## MKHunt

I updated my rig and changed cases and colorschemes (and mobos, and soundcards, and RAM) so I guess here's an update.


----------



## rebelnitro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> It looks awesome. You should use the rig builder so we can see what all you're working with.


Ok done, my rig builder thing is complete.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3gr0*
> 
> Hi guys!, this is my first loop!! i hope you like


Exellent litte beast you have there









Don't forget to add yourself to the Silverstone TJ08-E Owners Club.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1068487/silverstone-tj08-e-owners-club


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I think that I'm the only one who likes the look of the newer EK stuff. I have a feeling that my build won't be too popular!


Well, I didn't buy my parts based only on looks, but rather performance and results so I too have nearly all EK water blocks for both my CPUs (EK "Full Nickel") and GPUs (EK FTW+) in my build. My graphic card water blocks are not really visible with the way things are mounted so you can't see the bottom, only the side ports where the tubes are mainly. I will be posting once I am done a build log of a very LARGE Mountain Mods workstation so you can at least know they are there.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I updated my rig and changed cases and colorschemes (and mobos, and soundcards, and RAM) so I guess here's an update.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think it will look better with shorter tubings.


----------



## Systemlord

I'm have been tirelessly working on my build for the last 12 hours, I soldered my MDPC 3-pin connectors to the circuit boards I purchased yesterday and have covered them in 3M's Carbon Fiber DI-NOC! Now before I get ahead of myself here I have Mayhem Extreme Biocide, but don't I need something to prevent that greenish corrosion buildup in my radiators copper and brass construction!

I don't want to run premixed coolant because coolants increase temps, isn't there some sort of corrosion concentrate to add to the distilled water? I'm shocked that no one has developed a corrosion concentrate alongside the various types of Biocide, can anyone recommend such a corrosion concentrate that won't take up to much water volume within my loop?

*My first ever soldering job on a PCB using my Hakko FX-888, not bad for a first timer!*


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I'm have been tirelessly working on my build for the last 12 hours, I soldered my MDPC 3-pin connectors to the circuit boards I purchased yesterday and have covered them in 3M's Carbon Fiber DI-NOC! Now before I get ahead of myself here I have Mayhem Extreme Biocide, but don't I need something to prevent that greenish corrosion buildup in my radiators copper and brass construction!
> 
> I don't want to run premixed coolant because coolants increase temps, isn't there some sort of corrosion concentrate to add to the distilled water? I'm shocked that no one has developed a corrosion concentrate alongside the various types of Biocide, can anyone recommend such a corrosion concentrate that won't take up to much water volume within my loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How do those work? Can you control the fan speed?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How do those work? Can you control the fan speed?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I'll be running the 90* degree leads from the boards to my Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 Pro, 8 fans split into 2 fan channels 4 fans per radiators. The other board will power my case fan via my Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 Pro, the last two channels will monitor both my PMP-450's RPM. I also have a Flow 400 MPS flow meter that will read my loops GPM.


----------



## Chirpy

Hey guys currently working on working my way through the entire thread, but I'm only at post 4414, pretty damn amazed at what everyone has been posting.


----------



## nostra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm not sure whether to go for red Masterkleer or clear Tygon tubing and let the dye in the Mayhems X1 give the colour instead, what do you guys reckon would look best and last over time?


i would go for tygon, masterkleer should take coloer from the coolant pretty fast, and tygon are so Nice to work with it bends so well


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I'm have been tirelessly working on my build for the last 12 hours, I soldered my MDPC 3-pin connectors to the circuit boards I purchased yesterday and have covered them in 3M's Carbon Fiber DI-NOC! Now before I get ahead of myself here I have Mayhem Extreme Biocide, but don't I need something to prevent that greenish corrosion buildup in my radiators copper and brass construction!
> 
> I don't want to run premixed coolant because coolants increase temps, isn't there some sort of corrosion concentrate to add to the distilled water? I'm shocked that no one has developed a corrosion concentrate alongside the various types of Biocide, can anyone recommend such a corrosion concentrate that won't take up to much water volume within my loop?
> 
> *My first ever soldering job on a PCB using my Hakko FX-888, not bad for a first timer! [/B*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> *
> 
> 
> *0[/IMG]
> 
> *


You'll need to either break the tach signal trace after the first fan, or dissconnect the tach lead from the fan connector for all but the one you want to use as an RPM source..

The tach signal on fans is just basically 2 contact closures to ground (optical or magnetic) per revolution.

Whatever device you're using to monitor the RPM, pulls the tach line high thru a resistor, and then counts the times it's pulled low, (goes to ground).

If you connect multiple fans, it'll count a combined number of lows and attribute them to one fan and read wayyy high.

I use circuit boards to break out power to my fans, but I use ones I custom make so that I can use jumper blocks to select either one of the fan connectors on that board, or to get the tach signal from a second board that's designed to be cascaded from the first.

Below is a pic of the board with the traces visible thru it. The upper and lower halves of the board are identicle for the top row of fans and the bottom row of fans.

Assume the left most horizontal connections go to the controller, and the rightmost horizontal connectors go to a second board in a cascade, the jumpers are set to take the tach signal from the left most top and bottom fan connection.

If the jumpers are on the rear sets of pins, then the tach signal is derived from the rightmost horizontal connectors, which would normally be connected back to another board if you're using more than 6 fans per rad. . . although you could run one 480 / 560 fan set from one board.

The di-noc looks nice, but with the pins sticking up, do you have any clearance issues?

That's why I designed mine with all the connectors as "low profile"

Looks like we're both running a similar train of thought here.

Darlene


----------



## _REAPER_

IT DIVA

your going to have to do a few things to make the case stronger this is what I did for my HAF X

Here it is in the case for final measurements before primer/ paint/ rivet


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'll need to either break the tach signal trace after the first fan, or dissconnect the tach lead from the fan connector for all but the one you want to use as an RPM source..
> 
> The tach signal on fans is just basically 2 contact closures to ground (optical or magnetic) per revolution.
> 
> Whatever device you're using to monitor the RPM, pulls the tach line high thru a resistor, and then counts the times it's pulled low, (goes to ground).
> 
> If you connect multiple fans, it'll count a combined number of lows and attribute them to one fan and read wayyy high.
> 
> I use circuit boards to break out power to my fans, but I use ones I custom make so that I can use jumper blocks to select either one of the fan connectors on that board, or to get the tach signal from a second board that's designed to be cascaded from the first.
> 
> Below is a pic of the board with the traces visible thru it. The upper and lower halves of the board are identicle for the top row of fans and the bottom row of fans.
> 
> Assume the left most horizontal connections go to the controller, and the rightmost horizontal connectors go to a second board in a cascade, the jumpers are set to take the tach signal from the left most top and bottom fan connection.
> 
> If the jumpers are on the rear sets of pins, then the tach signal is derived from the rightmost horizontal connectors, which would normally be connected back to another board if you're using more than 6 fans per rad. . . although you could run one 480 / 560 fan set from one board.
> 
> The di-noc looks nice, but with the pins sticking up, do you have any clearance issues?
> 
> That's why I designed mine with all the connectors as "low profile"
> 
> Looks like we're both running a similar train of thought here.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think I'll cut the signal pins on my power distribution boards except for the first one. I never thought about doing all of the 3-pin fan connectors low profile 90 degrees, there's no clearance issues as my STH10 has so much room behind the motherboard in the lower corner where it will be out of sight just an inch in front of the SSD cage just about the radiators. I really enjoyed wrapping those board holders with that di-noc, I love how well it sticks to anything strongly! That stuff will rip my whiskers off my face.

Tomorrow I'll work on all custom fan extensions as each individual cable needs to be different, Aqua Bus 4-pin cable will be of a custom length for my Flow 400 MPS sensor. Then I'll mount the second power distribution board in the lower front corner for case fans, the last two channels on my Aquaero Pro 5 to monitor my dual PMP-450's. Got alot of sleeving to do tomorrow!


----------



## DamnVicious

Hi Guys! I want to join the club and sharing my rig!

I've just completed my first ever loop and computer build. Built it together with my girlfriend!









Full Specs:
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Formula
CPU: i7-3770K overclocked to 4.3 ghz for daily use
GPU: Nvidia GTX 690 dual gpu graphics card with 4gb vram
Ram: 16gb (4gb x 4) Corsair Dominator GT
PSU: Seasonic P1000 fully modular 1000W Powersupply with FTW Black and Red individual sleeving
Hard Drives: 2 x 128GB OCZ Vertex 4 SSD
Optical Drive: Asus Bluray drive
Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster Z
Fan Controller: Lamptron FC8
Case: NZXT Switch 810 Full Tower

Watercooling:
CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee HD
GPU Block: Heatkiller GTX 690 full cover waterblock with backplate
Top Radiator: Alphacool Nexxxos 360mm XT45 Rad
Side Radiator: Alphacool Nexxxos 240mm Monsta Rad
Pump: Swiftech MCP655 pump with Bitspower Acrylic Top
Reservoir: EK Multioption Res X2 150 Advanced
Tubes: Deep Red 3/8 x 1/2 in Masterkleer Tubes

Fans:
10 x Corsair SP120 Fans on the radiators
2 x Corsair AF140 Fans as bottom intake and rear exhaust
1 x Corsair Airflow Memory Fan

Peripherals:

Monitor: BenQ 24 inch XL2420T True 120Hz Monitor (Capable of displaying 120 frames per second)
Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow Mechanical Keyboard
Xbox 360 Wired Controller
Headset: Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250 ohms
Mouse: Cyborg R.A.T. 9 Wireless Mouse
Mousepad: Razer Goliathus Control Edition


----------



## TPE-331

DamnVicious, love the build. You and the girlfriend did an excellent job.


----------



## DamnVicious

Thanks! We had a hard time mounting the reservoir though. Currently using velcro to hold the reservoir to the side of the case. But it is starting to droop little by little and looking for mounting suggestions. Thanks!


----------



## Chirpy

Thats impressive, looks fantastic DamnVicious


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamnVicious*
> 
> Thanks! We had a hard time mounting the reservoir though. Currently using velcro to hold the reservoir to the side of the case. But it is starting to droop little by little and looking for mounting suggestions. Thanks!


EK do some clips for the cylindrical reservoirs.

Here's an example of something similar to what I mean -

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/phobya-reservoir-mount-50mm


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamnVicious*
> 
> Thanks! We had a hard time mounting the reservoir though. Currently using velcro to hold the reservoir to the side of the case. But it is starting to droop little by little and looking for mounting suggestions. Thanks!


I've used SCOTCH TAPE #4010 to secure reservoirs in the past. I attached the tape between my reservoir clips and the case structure. This tape is super strong.


----------



## DamnVicious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> EK do some clips for the cylindrical reservoirs.
> 
> Here's an example of something similar to what I mean -
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/phobya-reservoir-mount-50mm


I'm already using clips like these. The clips are the ones connected by velcro to the case. Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> I've used SCOTCH TAPE #4010 to secure reservoirs in the past. I attached the tape between my reservoir clips and the case structure. This tape is super strong.


I'll try to get some of these tape. Thanks! I live in the Philippines and I'm not sure if we have this.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I'm have been tirelessly working on my build for the last 12 hours, I soldered my MDPC 3-pin connectors to the circuit boards I purchased yesterday and have covered them in 3M's Carbon Fiber DI-NOC! Now before I get ahead of myself here I have Mayhem Extreme Biocide, but don't I need something to prevent that greenish corrosion buildup in my radiators copper and brass construction!
> 
> I don't want to run premixed coolant because coolants increase temps, isn't there some sort of corrosion concentrate to add to the distilled water? I'm shocked that no one has developed a corrosion concentrate alongside the various types of Biocide, can anyone recommend such a corrosion concentrate that won't take up to much water volume within my loop?
> 
> *My first ever soldering job on a PCB using my Hakko FX-888, not bad for a first timer!*


Very nice work-especially if it's your first attempt.

+1 rep for your efforts









*
Excuse the OT:*

Secondly, as far as i was aware, certain coolants actualy lower the loop temp and are also quite neutral in their Ph content-my advice to you would be to PM Mick on his thread (Mayhem's), im sure that he will offer you any suitable advice if he can-he's good that way.

The green corrosion is called patina, it is basically tarnish that occurs on the surface of copper/bronze and similar materials when the metal is exposed to various chemicals or acids and in turn oxidation takes place.

Have you had a look at the Ph of your loop (ideal Ph would be around 7),

'Acid' (soft water) water being under Ph 7, and Alkaline water (hard water) being over Ph 7 (i remember this from my old days when i was an Aquarium enthsiast-now those were kick a** pumps







)

Anyway, here is a link to simplify what i have said: http://ga.water.usgs.gov/edu/ph.html

that may well be the cause of your 'Green' problem.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nostra*
> 
> i just finished my first loop, ive done it in a fractal design: Define R4 with some modding in the front for fitting a 280 thick rad and a mod on the res so it would fit where i wanted it..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it still needs to be filled and i have to put some lighting in there aswell, but i think it should qualifys me for the club


Wow, love the look of those *rads* stuffed in a case that size.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . . . . Hooooooo
> Back from the welding shop:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I took a vacatio day so I could take this naughty girl to my tig guy, and I gotta say that for the time we worked and the perfect results we got, it's been about the best $100 I've spent so far.
> I was really surprised, as that's about a third to half of what I expected based on the time we spent and the usual shop rate.
> Anyway, I'll wait untill the weekend to dress the welds and clean things up a bit, but I just had to assemble the chassis and put in the rads to get an idea what I might want to do before I disassemble it to dress the welds and get some paint on the bare spots. I'll mark where the top chassis panel needs to be drilled for the plastic top to fit, and I need to relieve the top plastics for one of the top fans while I'm at it.
> I was planning to put some aluminum angle along the rads to add some stiffening, but it's not going to be necessary, this sucker is rock solid and it's only got a few screws barely snug.
> The boxed shape that NZXT uses along the edges of the top and bottom panels is incredibly strong, even lengthed out like this one is.
> Everything just fits like a glove.
> There's only 4 fans on the underside of the top rad, as there's not enough clearance above the motherboard, even for thin fans, but with 10 out of 12 fans, I doubt I'll be seriously conpromised.
> I also have a thin, 20mm fan available for the rear most fan on the lower rad, in case I have a clearance issue with the 4th GPU.
> Thought I'd share my excitement:
> Darlene


Whoa! Excuse me, but your rads are showing, Bumble-Tuna.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelnitro*
> 
> I wish I have the moola to build some of the extreme extravagant computers we all see here.
> Meanwhile here is my small yet humble custom computer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Acrylic case, what kind?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I updated my rig and changed cases and colorschemes (and mobos, and soundcards, and RAM) so I guess here's an update.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, but the tubes look a little crazy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamnVicious*
> 
> Hi Guys! I want to join the club and sharing my rig!
> I've just completed my first ever loop and computer build. Built it together with my girlfriend!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Specs:
> Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Formula
> CPU: i7-3770K overclocked to 4.3 ghz for daily use
> GPU: Nvidia GTX 690 dual gpu graphics card with 4gb vram
> Ram: 16gb (4gb x 4) Corsair Dominator GT
> PSU: Seasonic P1000 fully modular 1000W Powersupply with FTW Black and Red individual sleeving
> Hard Drives: 2 x 128GB OCZ Vertex 4 SSD
> Optical Drive: Asus Bluray drive
> Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster Z
> Fan Controller: Lamptron FC8
> Case: NZXT Switch 810 Full Tower
> Watercooling:
> CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee HD
> GPU Block: Heatkiller GTX 690 full cover waterblock with backplate
> Top Radiator: Alphacool Nexxxos 360mm XT45 Rad
> Side Radiator: Alphacool Nexxxos 240mm Monsta Rad
> Pump: Swiftech MCP655 pump with Bitspower Acrylic Top
> Reservoir: EK Multioption Res X2 150 Advanced
> Tubes: Deep Red 3/8 x 1/2 in Masterkleer Tubes
> Fans:
> 10 x Corsair SP120 Fans on the radiators
> 2 x Corsair AF140 Fans as bottom intake and rear exhaust
> 1 x Corsair Airflow Memory Fan
> Peripherals:
> Monitor: BenQ 24 inch XL2420T True 120Hz Monitor (Capable of displaying 120 frames per second)
> Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow Mechanical Keyboard
> Xbox 360 Wired Controller
> Headset: Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250 ohms
> Mouse: Cyborg R.A.T. 9 Wireless Mouse
> Mousepad: Razer Goliathus Control Edition


At first glance I thought I was looking @MKHunts build.







But your rig looks really! Nice job for you're first build and loop. Also a cool GF for helping you out.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Wow, love the look of those *rads* stuffed in a case that size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whoa! Excuse me, but your rads are showing, Bumble-Tuna.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic case, what kind?
> 
> Nice, but the tubes look a little crazy.
> At first glance I thought I was looking @MKHunts build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But your rig looks really! Nice job for you're first build and loop. Also a cool GF for helping you out.


Thanks. Not much room, didn't want to buy new fittings, and not even enough room to get my hands in there. I really wanted a rad between the cpu and gpu, too. having bpth rad fittings in that upper corner was challenging. But the C70 has a support bar behind the faceplate so I couldn't have the top rad ports towards the front. Similarly, mobo lane preferencing dictated where the GPU had to go.


----------



## Alex132

I seem to be getting high temps load/idle.

About 40'c idle and 64'c load at 4.5Ghz / 1.35v









Anyway I coulda mounted the raystorm block wrongly?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamnVicious*
> 
> Hi Guys! I want to join the club and sharing my rig!
> 
> I've just completed my first ever loop and computer build. Built it together with my girlfriend!


Nice rig, but i see that not as your point. Main point is you've a cool gf








When you have a 240 at the front you've to do some drilling for the fan bolt to allign properly as far as i know right?
If you've drilled that part might as well drill some hole to mount your res rather than velcro it, more secure that way


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I seem to be getting high temps load/idle.
> 
> About 40'c idle and 64'c load at 4.5Ghz / 1.35v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I coulda mounted the raystorm block wrongly?


Try tightening the mounting screws. When I build, I always snug my XSPC screws after day 1. They always seem to take 1.5-2 turns more as well.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I seem to be getting high temps load/idle.
> 
> About 40'c idle and 64'c load at 4.5Ghz / 1.35v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I coulda mounted the raystorm block wrongly?
> 
> 
> 
> Try tightening the mounting screws. When I build, I always snug my XSPC screws after day 1. They always seem to take 1.5-2 turns more as well.
Click to expand...

They're as tight as they can go.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> They're as tight as they can go.


Then I'd say remount time. Look at your thermal goop while the block is off, too.


----------



## DamnVicious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Nice rig, but i see that not as your point. Main point is you've a cool gf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you have a 240 at the front you've to do some drilling for the fan bolt to allign properly as far as i know right?
> If you've drilled that part might as well drill some hole to mount your res rather than velcro it, more secure that way


Thanks! Yeah, my gf is pretty cool.

I actually didnt drill any holes for the 240. I made the bottom fan align to hold the Rad in place then I placed the top fan directly onto the rad without screwing onto the case and used some mounting tape for stability.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Also make sure you have the tubing setup properly, CPU blocks have a specific inlet and outlet.


----------



## bundymania

Yeah Buddy, i´ll find that cable for you....ermm....ask again in summer


----------



## mr one

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah Buddy, i´ll find that cable for you....ermm....ask again in summer






So much radiator win in here








Umm maybe someone could answer my wuestions on THIS thread?


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah Buddy, i´ll find that cable for you....ermm....ask again in summer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My question is this: Is the g-changer worth double the price of the NOVA 1080?


----------



## airplaneman

Quick question.

I have an EK Supreme 1366 Rev 2.0, and I want to upgrade to an 1155 rig. Is there an adapter I can get for this block, or do I need to buy a new one?

If this block is outdated however, I will just buy a new one even if there is an adapter.

Any input would be great. Thanks!


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> I have an EK Supreme 1366 Rev 2.0, and I want to upgrade to an 1155 rig. Is there an adapter I can get for this block, or do I need to buy a new one?
> 
> If this block is outdated however, I will just buy a new one even if there is an adapter.
> 
> Any input would be great. Thanks!


There certainly is adaptorsout there. My Rampage IV came with one.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Yeah Buddy, i´ll find that cable for you....ermm....ask again in summer


Your component supplier must have a photo of you on his mantlepiece.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . . . . Hooooooo
> 
> Back from the welding shop:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I took a vacation day so I could take this naughty girl to my tig guy, and I gotta say that for the time we worked and the perfect results we got, it's been about the best $100 I've spent so far.
> 
> I was really surprised, as that's about a third to half of what I expected based on the time we spent and the usual shop rate.
> 
> Anyway, I'll wait untill the weekend to dress the welds and clean things up a bit, but I just had to assemble the chassis and put in the rads to get an idea what I might want to do before I disassemble it to dress the welds and get some paint on the bare spots. I'll mark where the top chassis panel needs to be drilled for the plastic top to fit, and I need to relieve the top plastics for one of the top fans while I'm at it.
> 
> I was planning to put some aluminum angle along the rads to add some stiffening, but it's not going to be necessary, this sucker is rock solid and it's only got a few screws barely snug.
> 
> The boxed shape that NZXT uses along the edges of the top and bottom panels is incredibly strong, even lengthed out like this one is.
> 
> Everything just fits like a glove.
> 
> There's only 4 fans on the underside of the top rad, as there's not enough clearance above the motherboard, even for thin fans, but with 10 out of 12 fans, I doubt I'll be seriously conpromised.
> 
> I also have a thin, 20mm fan available for the rear most fan on the lower rad, in case I have a clearance issue with the 4th GPU.
> 
> Thought I'd share my excitement:
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I updated my rig and changed cases and colorschemes (and mobos, and soundcards, and RAM) so I guess here's an update.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome! Moved on from the 690ii?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I'm have been tirelessly working on my build for the last 12 hours, I soldered my MDPC 3-pin connectors to the circuit boards I purchased yesterday and have covered them in 3M's Carbon Fiber DI-NOC! Now before I get ahead of myself here I have Mayhem Extreme Biocide, but don't I need something to prevent that greenish corrosion buildup in my radiators copper and brass construction!
> 
> I don't want to run premixed coolant because coolants increase temps, isn't there some sort of corrosion concentrate to add to the distilled water? I'm shocked that no one has developed a corrosion concentrate alongside the various types of Biocide, can anyone recommend such a corrosion concentrate that won't take up to much water volume within my loop?
> 
> *My first ever soldering job on a PCB using my Hakko FX-888, not bad for a first timer!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's really nice! I don't have the patience to solder so I'm going to get these:


----------



## Fonne

Have tried asking in the Corsair Hydro club, but no luck, so hope its ok to try here ...

*Is here any pictures/review out that shows the inside of the H100i ? - Like this Swiftech:*





And to share something, Frozen CPU just got the new Koolance Quick Disconnect



+ White Alphacool rads











Love how they look ...


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> Also make sure you have the tubing setup properly, CPU blocks have a specific inlet and outlet.


They're correct.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> They're as tight as they can go.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I'd say remount time. Look at your thermal goop while the block is off, too.
Click to expand...

There should be a perfect amount, might be too little on it though...


----------



## n3gr0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Exellent litte beast you have there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to add yourself to the Silverstone TJ08-E Owners Club.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1068487/silverstone-tj08-e-owners-club


Thanks men, I just do it.
I´m following, there are beautifull setups!!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I updated my rig and changed cases and colorschemes (and mobos, and soundcards, and RAM) so I guess here's an update.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


really love your rig







as a C70 owner and a WC planner (







) your loop is very inspiring to me







(i only have to figure out how to get the M5V block in a clear setup with everything else)

a few questions:
-what rads are you using there? (and how long is the one in the front? any problems fitting that rad? what overall clearance or difficulties you had?)
-what are the res and pump and how did you mount them?
-do you think it's possible to connect the top rad and the rear rad directly space wise? (and if it's a 280?)
-how do you like that Bitfenix controller?

also, i'd recommend you to redo the airflow because your rig would just suck lots of dust in in that negative pressure. additionally, a few angle fittings could do wonders with tubing and make it a very clear loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamnVicious*
> 
> Hi Guys! I want to join the club and sharing my rig!
> 
> I've just completed my first ever loop and computer build. Built it together with my girlfriend!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Specs:
> Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Formula
> CPU: i7-3770K overclocked to 4.3 ghz for daily use
> GPU: Nvidia GTX 690 dual gpu graphics card with 4gb vram
> Ram: 16gb (4gb x 4) Corsair Dominator GT
> PSU: Seasonic P1000 fully modular 1000W Powersupply with FTW Black and Red individual sleeving
> Hard Drives: 2 x 128GB OCZ Vertex 4 SSD
> Optical Drive: Asus Bluray drive
> Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster Z
> Fan Controller: Lamptron FC8
> Case: NZXT Switch 810 Full Tower
> 
> Watercooling:
> CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee HD
> GPU Block: Heatkiller GTX 690 full cover waterblock with backplate
> Top Radiator: Alphacool Nexxxos 360mm XT45 Rad
> Side Radiator: Alphacool Nexxxos 240mm Monsta Rad
> Pump: Swiftech MCP655 pump with Bitspower Acrylic Top
> Reservoir: EK Multioption Res X2 150 Advanced
> Tubes: Deep Red 3/8 x 1/2 in Masterkleer Tubes
> 
> Fans:
> 10 x Corsair SP120 Fans on the radiators
> 2 x Corsair AF140 Fans as bottom intake and rear exhaust
> 1 x Corsair Airflow Memory Fan
> 
> Peripherals:
> 
> Monitor: BenQ 24 inch XL2420T True 120Hz Monitor (Capable of displaying 120 frames per second)
> Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow Mechanical Keyboard
> Xbox 360 Wired Controller
> Headset: Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250 ohms
> Mouse: Cyborg R.A.T. 9 Wireless Mouse
> Mousepad: Razer Goliathus Control Edition


love your tubing job in that rig and the color







(btw, how is that red lighting in person?)
never thought that the way you routed the tubing for the M5F block would look so good like that. (since i find the CPU block to M5F block direct ,no angle fitting, connection quite lazy and ugly. though it could be done well at times)

could you comment on the total length of the monsta rad in the front with the G1/4 plugs at the bottom and top? (plan to get one but it would be Very tight and might not fit)


----------



## superericla

I just got an EX480 radiator in, and figured out it's going to fit perfectly with the dual EX420 radiators I'm running in my ST10. No pedestal needed.


----------



## SpecializedPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Haha I'm guessing that's a good thing? That's only with a single 12" UV cathode too. I want to add another 12" but don't know where to put it. I don't it visible with the side panel on so none of the light bleeds out, so that kind of limits my options a little bit. I'll probably end up waiting for my case upgrade to add another one though.


Nah, thats perfect, just the right ambience, looks stunning, probably the best looking UV rig ive seen!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I just got an EX480 radiator in, and figured out it's going to fit perfectly with the dual EX420 radiators I'm running in my ST10. No pedestal needed.


No Monsta 480mm, ?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No Monsta 480mm, ?


It wouldn't fit in the ST10 with the dual 420mm radiators without an extended top, which I personally dislike the aesthetics of. Plus, there's little need for the 480mm as it is, I'm only cooling a single CPU and GPU with these three radiators.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It wouldn't fit in the ST10 with the dual 420mm radiators without an extended top, which I personally dislike the aesthetics of. Plus, there's little need for the 480mm as it is, I'm only cooling a single CPU and GPU with these three radiators.


kewl









Does CL supply you with rad stands btw?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does CL supply you with rad stands btw?


Rad stands? There are holes that came in the case to support a 140.3 radiator in the top and bottom (you choose between 140.3, 120.4, or drop-in mount for the top and bottom) and I purchased a flex-bay mount for the EX480. I know radiator stands are not included with the pedestal, if that's what you're wondering.


----------



## brian1115

Quote:


>


What blue tubing did you use and where did you get it from? or is that coolant?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian1115*
> 
> What blue tubing did you use and where did you get it from? or is that coolant?


That would be coolant. You can see the tubing is clear where it goes over the fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nostra*
> 
> i just finished my first loop, ive done it in a fractal design: Define R4 with some modding in the front for fitting a 280 thick rad and a mod on the res so it would fit where i wanted it..
> it still needs to be filled and i have to put some lighting in there aswell, but i think it should qualifys me for the club


Do you have any brighter pictures? From what I can see it looks like you did a very good job.


----------



## superericla

Looks like Mayhem's Pastel Blue Berry.


----------



## brian1115

anybody know where to get blue tubing like that without UV effect?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> really love your rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as a C70 owner and a WC planner (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) your loop is very inspiring to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i only have to figure out how to get the M5V block in a clear setup with everything else)
> 
> a few questions:
> -what rads are you using there? (and how long is the one in the front? any problems fitting that rad? what overall clearance or difficulties you had?)
> *RX120 on the back, RS240 on top, RX240 in the front. The length is, erm, on the SXPC website lol. As for fitting it there, let's just say that the rad will need a SERIOUS refinishing on both ends if I plan to ever sell it or remount. Also the floor of the case is very slightly bowed under it. Two if the fan bolt holes lined up on the rad and the case front though, so it's not going anywhere. If I were to redo it, I'd use an EX240 on top so that fan speed would be dropped a bit.*
> -what are the res and pump and how did you mount them?
> *Res is an XSPC dual bay with an MCP-35x. It's mounted int he bottom two bays of the case. A single bay res would easily work here if you wanted an optical and fan controller. I just shoved it in all the way and removed the lower two coverings from the front panel. Then I clipped the front panel covers onto the acrylic face of the res and quickly/skillfully clipped the front panel in place. They bay covers clip themselves into the front panel while staying attached to the front of the res. When removing, they stay clipped to the front panel, so the dance is repeated every time I take off the front.*
> -do you think it's possible to connect the top rad and the rear rad directly space wise? (and if it's a 280?)
> *If a 280, probably not. I suppose some angled fittings and small hands could link them together though. Since this computer is 60% school/CAD, I did not have the luxury of time and experimentation with my rebuild.*
> -how do you like that Bitfenix controller?
> *I like it quite a bit. Just need to make sure the PCB at the back isn't flexed or the sliders can come a little loose. Even bottomed out, my SP120s will still turn on. I have it set currently so that sliders 1-3 each control the fans on a rad.*


Meh, not worth redoing the air. No matter how it's set up, air is being sucked through the grates in the window since that's the place with the least amount of restriction. At least this way I'm not passing warm air through my rads. My 690II with balanced airflow and filters still got dusty as nuts, so whatever.

@ wermad, yeah, I left the 690II. This case has handles and i'st actually quieter, even with huge empty holes in the window. Part of that is probably because I lined it in acoustic foam. Also the fans are quieter. And I have a fan controller now rather than 12V all the time. Though credit where credit's due, the 690II is made of thicker steel.


----------



## mironccr345

Finally finished my Source 220 build. Pump and res came from @PCmodderMicMacMichaelAngelo. Thanks bud.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Rad stands? There are holes that came in the case to support a 140.3 radiator in the top and bottom (you choose between 140.3, 120.4, or drop-in mount for the top and bottom) and I purchased a flex-bay mount for the EX480. I know radiator stands are not included with the pedestal, if that's what you're wondering.


Ah, ok. So the rads lay flat and not on their side? (ie TJ11?)


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ah, ok. the rads lay flat and not on their side? (ie TJ11?)


Yes, the radiators lay flat in the ST10. Some of CaseLabs cases do have side mounted radiators, such as the STH10, and I believe the mounts are included with those cases.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Yes, the radiators lay flat in the ST10. Some of CaseLabs cases do have side mounted radiators, such as the STH10, and I believe the mounts are included with those cases.


Actually you have to purchase the rad mounts seperately with the STH10. I bought 2 with mine and they definitely add a lot to the price of the case.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Actually you have to purchase the rad mounts seperately with the STH10. I bought 2 with mine and they definitely add a lot to the price of the case.


Good to know.


----------



## mrBIGsComputer

Hey everyone. I'm planning and working on gather my water loop items. I wanted to ask something about water blocks. Has anyone used the swiftech universal hours water block? I only ask because I am running gtx470 (I know I'm out of date) but it what I have to work with.


----------



## mrBIGsComputer

That's GPU water block.


----------



## wermad

Needs wire-management (and maybe push/pull)


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needs wire-management (and maybe push/pull)


How many children can you fit in your case?


----------



## DamnVicious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> love your tubing job in that rig and the color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (btw, how is that red lighting in person?)
> never thought that the way you routed the tubing for the M5F block would look so good like that. (since i find the CPU block to M5F block direct ,no angle fitting, connection quite lazy and ugly. though it could be done well at times)
> 
> could you comment on the total length of the monsta rad in the front with the G1/4 plugs at the bottom and top? (plan to get one but it would be Very tight and might not fit)


The red LED lighting is okay for me with the side panel on. I tried using a cold cathode and it looked like a pinkish glow to me. The LEDS are less even but looks more red than the cold cathode. Here is a picture with the side panel on. However, if the side panel is off, you can see red laser looking lights on the side of the case.



I also did not like the look of routing straight from the CPU to the M5F block and the only way I thought to give them spacing is put the radiator in between the two blocks. Ended up to look pretty cool for me.

I'll try to measure the Monsta Rad once I get home later. Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> How many children can you fit in your case?


2.5


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Very nice work-especially if it's your first attempt.
> 
> +1 rep for your efforts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Excuse the OT:*
> 
> Secondly, as far as i was aware, certain coolants actualy lower the loop temp and are also quite neutral in their Ph content-my advice to you would be to PM Mick on his thread (Mayhem's), im sure that he will offer you any suitable advice if he can-he's good that way.
> 
> The green corrosion is called patina, it is basically tarnish that occurs on the surface of copper/bronze and similar materials when the metal is exposed to various chemicals or acids and in turn oxidation takes place.
> 
> Have you had a look at the Ph of your loop (ideal Ph would be around 7),
> 
> 'Acid' (soft water) water being under Ph 7, and Alkaline water (hard water) being over Ph 7 (i remember this from my old days when i was an Aquarium enthsiast-now those were kick a** pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Anyway, here is a kink to simplify what i have said: http://ga.water.usgs.gov/edu/ph.html
> 
> that may well be the cause of your 'Green' problem.


Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it!

I did practice a few times soldering a few 3-pin connectors, found the sharp pointed tip worked best a 700-750 degrees since the contact area is less. That's the most fun I ever had soldering anything, was able to run at 500 degrees using a small screw driver type tip (1.2mm) soldering the 26 gauge wires to the 3-pin fan connectors!

I think I made a huge mistake when flushing my radiator on my first water cooling build two years ago. I flushed my radiator with tap water first and then rinsed it with distilled, plugged it up and left some moisture in the radiator for a few months!

I think that's where the massive amount of patina originated from because what I understand is Martin had a similar issue accidently left one of his radiators full of water over the Summer, it corroded the radiator from the inside out!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! Moved on from the 690ii?
> That's really nice! I don't have the patience to solder so I'm going to get these:


That's exactly what I bought, except I made my own circuit boards so I could run eight fans off one unit rather than needing two. When my custom PCB's were done I soldered all the connectors on after applying the carbon fiber vinyl, then I had to cut some of the carbon fiber vinyl on the edge off the PCB so I could slide the PCB in the plastic slot holder. Painstaking work if you ask me!


----------



## Idef1x

Came across these today: Aqua Computer airplex GIGANT



What a beast. If I knew of a nice case to pair it with, I could easily be drawn towards this madness


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Came across these today: Aqua Computer airplex GIGANT
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a beast. If I knew of a nice case to pair it with, I could easily be drawn towards this madness


Simple:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163177
External cooling you say?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Finally finished my Source 220 build. Pump and res came from @PCmodderMicMacMichaelAngelo. Thanks bud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice rig, really adore that color scheme and the how the green came out. the white of the fans, ram, and the 460 works well as a white accent with the green of the motherboard and the coolant. i think that when well planned green coolant could never harm a beautiful scheme of a loop because green always turns out in it's own unique shade in every build and makes it amazing.
weirdly enough, i think the yellow wires of the PSU compliment the loop very well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> really love your rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as a C70 owner and a WC planner (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) your loop is very inspiring to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i only have to figure out how to get the M5V block in a clear setup with everything else)
> 
> a few questions:
> -what rads are you using there? (and how long is the one in the front? any problems fitting that rad? what overall clearance or difficulties you had?)
> 
> *RX120 on the back, RS240 on top, RX240 in the front. The length is, erm, on the SXPC website lol. As for fitting it there, let's just say that the rad will need a SERIOUS refinishing on both ends if I plan to ever sell it or remount. Also the floor of the case is very slightly bowed under it. Two if the fan bolt holes lined up on the rad and the case front though, so it's not going anywhere. If I were to redo it, I'd use an EX240 on top so that fan speed would be dropped a bit.*
> 
> -what are the res and pump and how did you mount them?
> 
> *Res is an XSPC dual bay with an MCP-35x. It's mounted int he bottom two bays of the case. A single bay res would easily work here if you wanted an optical and fan controller. I just shoved it in all the way and removed the lower two coverings from the front panel. Then I clipped the front panel covers onto the acrylic face of the res and quickly/skillfully clipped the front panel in place. They bay covers clip themselves into the front panel while staying attached to the front of the res. When removing, they stay clipped to the front panel, so the dance is repeated every time I take off the front.*
> 
> -do you think it's possible to connect the top rad and the rear rad directly space wise? (and if it's a 280?)
> 
> *If a 280, probably not. I suppose some angled fittings and small hands could link them together though. Since this computer is 60% school/CAD, I did not have the luxury of time and experimentation with my rebuild.*
> 
> -how do you like that Bitfenix controller?
> 
> *I like it quite a bit. Just need to make sure the PCB at the back isn't flexed or the sliders can come a little loose. Even bottomed out, my SP120s will still turn on. I have it set currently so that sliders 1-3 each control the fans on a rad.*
> 
> 
> 
> Meh, not worth redoing the air. No matter how it's set up, air is being sucked through the grates in the window since that's the place with the least amount of restriction. At least this way I'm not passing warm air through my rads. My 690II with balanced airflow and filters still got dusty as nuts, so whatever.
Click to expand...

so i guess that i shouldn't get a rad that get near the 286 mm of the RX 240. (which is why it's so tempting to get the monsta 240 which is 279mm long but it has top and bottom plugs which add to that)
really liked your idea of the stealth dual bay res, makes it very clean with the front panel and the controller.
i have thought of maybe getting one of those xflow 120 or multi-port rads for the back whit would make a cleaner look if i'd manage to connect the top rad to it with a short and clean connection. (the real question is weather it's worth to get a 280 rad for that or just use a thin 360 one, with creative mounting, instead of the two top and rear rads)
and the controller IMO really shines if you have at one bitfenix LED fan to create some light or glow effect and having the ability to turn it on or off at a whim.

the only problem i see with your airflow setup is that it would quickly suck a noticeable amount of dust which would mean that you'd have to at some point (which would come sooner with that negative pressure) to tare down the loop to dust it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamnVicious*
> 
> The red LED lighting is okay for me with the side panel on. I tried using a cold cathode and it looked like a pinkish glow to me. The LEDS are less even but looks more red than the cold cathode. Here is a picture with the side panel on. However, if the side panel is off, you can see red laser looking lights on the side of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I also did not like the look of routing straight from the CPU to the M5F block and the only way I thought to give them spacing is put the radiator in between the two blocks. Ended up to look pretty cool for me.
> 
> I'll try to measure the Monsta Rad once I get home later. Thanks!


yeah, the NZXT sleeved LEDs can do a lot for a rig to have a nice glow. (plus no ugly inverter) i actually consider having RED LEDs on the CPU block (xspc raystrorm) and pump top (if i'll have it) and having white NZXT sleeved kit. (also clear tubing with red dye) is it a good idea or should i consider going red lighting? (and i find it very annoying that for some unknown reason blue is the easiest lighting and scheme to do and red is quite difficult







)

i'm now really considering doing a similar tube routing like you've done but maybe having a 45 angle on the gpu block and from that to the top m5f block (but the angle fitting wouldn't be directly facing the block but instead to the right and maybe creating a nice looking curve effect like some do)

also, are those extensions or custom sleeved cables? (and thank you for doing the measurements







. i suspect that the 279mm length spec is true but the height of the G1/4 plugs is the only unknown thing so by only measuring these might suffice)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> How many children can you fit in your case?
> 
> 
> 
> 2.5
Click to expand...

This should totally be the spec to measure cases (instead of all the full/mid tower thingy)


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Came across these today: Aqua Computer airplex GIGANT
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a beast. If I knew of a nice case to pair it with, I could easily be drawn towards this madness


Hmmmm... that's totally delicious... but then again you could completely build a half decent rig for not much more than it costs.


----------



## DamnVicious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> very nice rig, really adore that color scheme and the how the green came out. the white of the fans, ram, and the 460 works well as a white accent with the green of the motherboard and the coolant. i think that when well planned green coolant could never harm a beautiful scheme of a loop because green always turns out in it's own unique shade in every build and makes it amazing.
> weirdly enough, i think the yellow wires of the PSU compliment the loop very well.
> so i guess that i shouldn't get a rad that get near the 286 mm of the RX 240. (which is why it's so tempting to get the monsta 240 which is 279mm long but it has top and bottom plugs which add to that)
> really liked your idea of the stealth dual bay res, makes it very clean with the front panel and the controller.
> i have thought of maybe getting one of those xflow 120 or multi-port rads for the back whit would make a cleaner look if i'd manage to connect the top rad to it with a short and clean connection. (the real question is weather it's worth to get a 280 rad for that or just use a thin 360 one, with creative mounting, instead of the two top and rear rads)
> and the controller IMO really shines if you have at one bitfenix LED fan to create some light or glow effect and having the ability to turn it on or off at a whim.
> 
> the only problem i see with your airflow setup is that it would quickly suck a noticeable amount of dust which would mean that you'd have to at some point (which would come sooner with that negative pressure) to tare down the loop to dust it.
> yeah, the NZXT sleeved LEDs can do a lot for a rig to have a nice glow. (plus no ugly inverter) i actually consider having RED LEDs on the CPU block (xspc raystrorm) and pump top (if i'll have it) and having white NZXT sleeved kit. (also clear tubing with red dye) is it a good idea or should i consider going red lighting? (and i find it very annoying that for some unknown reason blue is the easiest lighting and scheme to do and red is quite difficult
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> i'm now really considering doing a similar tube routing like you've done but maybe having a 45 angle on the gpu block and from that to the top m5f block (but the angle fitting wouldn't be directly facing the block but instead to the right and maybe creating a nice looking curve effect like some do)
> 
> also, are those extensions or custom sleeved cables? (and thank you for doing the measurements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i suspect that the 279mm length spec is true but the height of the G1/4 plugs is the only unknown thing so by only measuring these might suffice)
> This should totally be the spec to measure cases (instead of all the full/mid tower thingy)


I have a pump top and a red led on it is pretty cool looking. I'm using Masterkleer Deep Red tubing and distilled water and I like the effect of this compared to clear tubing with red dye. Having the Sound Blaster Z Sound Card actually helps with the lighting as the Red LED inside is quite strong.

These are custom sleeved cables that are a mix of red and black. I'll get you the measurement as soon as I get home.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Came across these today: Aqua Computer airplex GIGANT
> 
> 
> 
> What a beast. If I knew of a nice case to pair it with, I could easily be drawn towards this madness


I ordered the bigger 3360 model (649 EUR) in december, it will arrive in 1-2 weeks..hopefully


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> I ordered the bigger 3360 model (649 EUR) in december, it will arrive in 1-2 weeks..hopefully


Weight: 15.6 Kg!








I take it you will have that outside the case?


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> My question is this: Is the g-changer worth double the price of the NOVA 1080?


Well, the normal Nova costs 109 EUR and this thicker rad 179 EUR. The new one outperforms the standard Nova with more RPM..above 800

You have to decide for yourself and compare to other rads in this size region.. I tested the 2 Koolance 1080 Rads aswell, the copper version is about 319 EUR here !









I´ll include the 60mm Nova in my review soon.

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/bundymania-presents-treffen-der-giganten-3-monster-radiatoren-im-vergleichstest-937893.html

(will be translated and released in foreign forums...soon)


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Came across these today: Aqua Computer airplex GIGANT


It looks like a 1950's office block. You should Photoshop some little people and cars around the bottom


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Finally finished my Source 220 build. Pump and res came from @PCmodderMicMacMichaelAngelo. Thanks bud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad all the parts worked out good for ya. Great looking rig, wish I had a folding rig that was that clean.


----------



## PinzaC55

Just got the alternative full window side panel for the HAF-X from Coolermaster UK and it shows my goodies off really nice. I can feel an Upgrade Itch....


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Just got the alternative full window side panel for the HAF-X from Coolermaster UK and it shows my goodies off really nice. I can feel an Upgrade Itch....


I think that's a camera upgrade


----------



## PinzaC55

Oh it was taken on my Samsung Galaxy Note 2. The lens might be dirty. I'll try to do better next time


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> very nice rig, really adore that color scheme and the how the green came out. the white of the fans, ram, and the 460 works well as a white accent with the green of the motherboard and the coolant. i think that when well planned green coolant could never harm a beautiful scheme of a loop because green always turns out in it's own unique shade in every build and makes it amazing.
> weirdly enough, i think the yellow wires of the PSU compliment the loop very well.
> so i guess that i shouldn't get a rad that get near the 286 mm of the RX 240. (which is why it's so tempting to get the monsta 240 which is 279mm long but it has top and bottom plugs which add to that)
> really liked your idea of the stealth dual bay res, makes it very clean with the front panel and the controller.
> i have thought of maybe getting one of those xflow 120 or multi-port rads for the back whit would make a cleaner look if i'd manage to connect the top rad to it with a short and clean connection. (the real question is weather it's worth to get a 280 rad for that or just use a thin 360 one, with creative mounting, instead of the two top and rear rads)
> and the controller IMO really sines if you have at one bitfenix LED fan to create some light or glow effect and having the ability to turn it on or off at a whim.
> the only problem i see with your airflow setup is that it would quickly suck a noticeable amount of dust which would mean that you'd have to at some point (which would come sooner with that negative pressure) to tare down the loop to dust it.
> yeah, the NZXT sleeved LEDs can do a lot for a rig to have a nice glow. (plus no ugly inverter) i actually consider having RED LEDs on the CPU block (xspc raystrorm) and pump top (if i'll have it) and having white NZXT sleeved kit. (also clear tubing with red dye) is it a good idea or should i consider going red lighting? (and i find it very annoying that for some unknown reason blue is the easiest lighting and scheme to do and red is quite difficult
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> i'm now really considering doing a similar tube routing like you've done but maybe having a 45 angle on the gpu block and from that to the top m5f block (but the angle fitting wouldn't be directly facing the block but instead to the right and maybe creating a nice looking curve effect like some do)
> also, are those extensions or custom sleeved cables? (and thank you for doing the measurements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i suspect that the 279mm length spec is true but the height of the G1/4 plugs is the only unknown thing so by only measuring these might suffice)
> This should totally be the spec to measure cases (instead of all the full/mid tower thingy)





Thanks for the complement. I have green cable extensions, but I didn't feel like messing with them and having to make room behind the mobo tray.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Glad all the parts worked out good for ya. Great looking rig, wish I had a folding rig that was that clean.


Thanks man! I've notice a 2 month trend for the builds I do. Took just as long as the White RV02.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Thanks for the complement. I have green cable extensions, but I didn't feel like messing with them and having to make room behind the mobo tray.


just keep it as it is. don't know why the yellow and black cables work so well (for at least) but i think they have made a subtle element of their own in the loop and since the yellow isn't too far form the grren tone of the MoBo and coolant and the black works good as an accent against the white it has made a multi color balance (black-white, green & yellow).

btw, are you dropping those 460's to the expensive pond (aka WC) or replacing them?


----------



## driftingforlife

Anybody got anything bad to say about koolance VL3N QDCs? Want to buy some when I get payed for when im benching.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> just keep it as it is. don't know why the yellow and black cables work so well (for at least) but i think they have made a subtle element of their own in the loop and since the yellow isn't too far form the grren tone of the MoBo and coolant and the black works good as an accent against the white it has made a multi color balance (black-white, green & yellow).
> btw, are you dropping those 460's to the expensive pond (aka WC) or replacing them?


Thanks! Looking at it now, it does go pretty good with the theme of the build. As far as the 460, I'll keep them on air for a while. I have XSPC blocks for them, but I didn't feel adding them to the loop would benefit me since the reference coolers do a good job keeping them cool. That's not to say I wont be putting them under water. I have an RX120 and would probably add a RX360 in the front If I decided to add them to the loop.







Plus, it's not my main rig and put together from spare components and parts I had lying around. It's used to fold 24/7 at my office.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Well, the normal Nova costs 109 EUR and this thicker rad 179 EUR. The new one outperforms the standard Nova with more RPM..above 800
> 
> You have to decide for yourself and compare to other rads in this size region.. I tested the 2 Koolance 1080 Rads aswell, the copper version is about 319 EUR here !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I´ll include the 60mm Nova in my review soon.
> 
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/bundymania-presents-treffen-der-giganten-3-monster-radiatoren-im-vergleichstest-937893.html
> 
> (will be translated and released in foreign forums...soon)


I gotcha, at performance pcs they have it for almost exactly double the price.
I think the nova will be enough for me, especially for a nice silent build.
Translation: I'm buying the Nova now, but in a month when I get bored with it, I'll be selling it here for cheap...
Somebody help me get to 35 rep lol.


----------



## CallAMedic4U

3M Doublesided tape if you cant use nuts and bolts to hold it on


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Oh it was taken on my Samsung Galaxy Note 2. The lens might be dirty. I'll try to do better next time


We have the same case, same side panel, same wc loop layout, same GK104 chips, same 2011 platform and the same phone.

Weird.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Came across these today: Aqua Computer airplex GIGANT
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was about to say...how cool, but who could afford such a radiator?! It's around $900 US!
> The Bundy of course posts...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> I ordered the bigger 3360 model (649 EUR) in december, it will arrive in 1-2 weeks..hopefully
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have seen that coming! LOL
Click to expand...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have seen that coming! LOL


I'd expect nothing less from bundy lol

PS. NostraD, the quote in your sig is the best explanation of water cooling I've ever seen


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> We have the same case, same side panel, same wc loop layout, same GK104 chips, same 2011 platform and the same phone.
> 
> Weird.


Is this any better? I have my SGN2 in a silicone case which unfortunately still allows my finger to touch the lens. Oh and BTW what would you recommend to get rid of the iridescent "Petrol" effect from the window?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Anybody got anything bad to say about koolance VL3N QDCs? Want to buy some when I get payed for when im benching.


From a review, they tested the best vs the vl3 & vl4. I haven't.seen anything on their new ones, but you can't go wrong with those.


----------



## brian1115

anybody know where to get light blue tubing or just blue tubing without the UV effect?


----------



## CiBi

I was just about to bleed my loop when I noticed my pump died







It will take a week to get a new one and in the meanwhile I can't game


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From a review, they tested the best vs the vl3 & vl4. I haven't.seen anything on their new ones, but you can't go wrong with those.


Sweet. Thanks


----------



## nostra

just turned on the beast after filling and leak testing! its running with impressive temps and the silence is unbeliveble my HDDS is the most noisy component


----------



## nostra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I was just about to bleed my loop when I noticed my pump died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will take a week to get a new one and in the meanwhile I can't game


Ohh that sucks mate


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Anybody got anything bad to say about koolance VL3N QDCs? Want to buy some when I get payed for when im benching.


I've had the VL3N's in my loop since last year. They work pretty well, and there is almost no spill when disconnecting. The biggest problem with the bayonet type is that you need enough slack in your tubing to allow twisting when connecting or disconnecting.

You should check out their new QDx series (QD4, QD3, etc.). Instead of twisting to disconnect, you only have to pull back a ring on the female connector.

My only remaining gripe with the Koolance QDC connectors is that they only available in one finish. They look out of place in a loop with matte black BP fittings.


----------



## Crooksy

I'm not sure whether to go for red Masterkleer or clear Tygon tubing and let the dye in the Mayhems X1 give the colour instead, what do you guys reckon would look best and last over time?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm not sure whether to go for red Masterkleer or clear Tygon tubing and let the dye in the Mayhems X1 give the colour instead, what do you guys reckon would look best and last over time?


No idea for the red tubing, but if your res is on "display" then get the ... awh crap. I've been looking for it for 20 minutes but I can't find the name







one esc


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm not sure whether to go for red Masterkleer or clear Tygon tubing and let the dye in the Mayhems X1 give the colour instead, what do you guys reckon would look best and last over time?
> 
> 
> 
> No idea for the red tubing, but if your res is on "display" then get the ... awh crap. I've been looking for it for 20 minutes but I can't find the name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one esc
Click to expand...

I was going to get a EK spin res for the 800D but as I have a possibility of getting a 900D. I'm looking at the one below...

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-res-x3-250-reservoir

I'd like to see real world comparisons on size though


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I was going to get a EK spin res for the 800D but as I have a possibility of getting a 900D. I'm looking at the one below...
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-res-x3-250-reservoir
> 
> I'd like to see real world comparisons on size though


EKs website says 250mm height, so roughly the height of two 120mm fans stacked, just to give you an idea of size. That doesn't include the fittings so you'd have to compensate for that as well


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I was going to get a EK spin res for the 800D but as I have a possibility of getting a 900D. I'm looking at the one below...
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-res-x3-250-reservoir
> 
> I'd like to see real world comparisons on size though
> 
> 
> 
> EKs website says 250mm height, so roughly the height of two 120mm fans stacked, just to give you an idea of size. That doesn't include the fittings so you'd have to compensate for that as well
Click to expand...

That would be perfect if I were to get the 900D. Do you have any comments on the tubing question I mentioned above?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> That would be perfect if I were to get the 900D. Do you have any comments on the tubing question I mentioned above?


I think it's more of a personal preference thing. I've always chosen colored tubing and distilled over colored premix or dyes. Primary reason is because distilled water is so cheap. Plus with clear tubing you have to worry about the tube becoming cloudy or being stained by the colored fluid. With colored tubes you don't have to worry about that


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> That would be perfect if I were to get the 900D. Do you have any comments on the tubing question I mentioned above?
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's more of a personal preference thing. I've always chosen colored tubing and distilled over colored premix or dyes. Primary reason is because distilled water is so cheap. Plus with clear tubing you have to worry about the tube becoming cloudy or being stained by the colored fluid. With colored tubes you don't have to worry about that
Click to expand...

Mayhems pastel fluids have been proven to be exceptional in this department. Little to discoloration, and Mayhems will offer to test any tubing you supply them with to let you know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm not sure whether to go for red Masterkleer or clear Tygon tubing and let the dye in the Mayhems X1 give the colour instead, what do you guys reckon would look best and last over time?
> 
> 
> 
> No idea for the red tubing, but if your res is on "display" then get the ... awh crap. I've been looking for it for 20 minutes but I can't find the name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one esc
Click to expand...

DURELENE TUBING. THE BEST ONE. ASK ANY PRO WATERCOOLER, IT'S THE #1 CLEAR TUBING

/fanboi

But seriously, Duralene is the best clear tubing you can get if you don't want to run into plasticizer / clouding issues.


----------



## Fonne

Have seen several people using the Noiseblocker *NB-eLoop* , but now is Phobya also making a *NB-eLoop*

Phobya *NB-eLoop* 1600rpm
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p15211_Phobya-NB-eLoop-1600rpm---Bionic-Fan---120x120x25mm--.html

Noiseblocker *NB-eLoop*
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p14173_Noiseblocker-NB-eLoop-B12-3-Bionic-fan-1900rpm---120x120x25mm--.html


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> That would be perfect if I were to get the 900D. Do you have any comments on the tubing question I mentioned above?
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's more of a personal preference thing. I've always chosen colored tubing and distilled over colored premix or dyes. Primary reason is because distilled water is so cheap. Plus with clear tubing you have to worry about the tube becoming cloudy or being stained by the colored fluid. With colored tubes you don't have to worry about that
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mayhems pastel fluids have been proven to be exceptional in this department. Little to discoloration, and Mayhems will offer to test any tubing you supply them with to let you know.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm not sure whether to go for red Masterkleer or clear Tygon tubing and let the dye in the Mayhems X1 give the colour instead, what do you guys reckon would look best and last over time?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No idea for the red tubing, but if your res is on "display" then get the ... awh crap. I've been looking for it for 20 minutes but I can't find the name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one esc
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> DURELENE TUBING. THE BEST ONE. ASK ANY PRO WATERCOOLER, IT'S THE #1 CLEAR TUBING
> 
> /fanboi
> 
> But seriously, Duralene is the best clear tubing you can get if you don't want to run into plasticizer / clouding issues.
Click to expand...

I can't seem to find it in the UK!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Aside from aesthetics, are there any advantages of bay reservoirs over internal freestanding reservoirs... Or vise versa?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Well that sucks :/ Then sort through all the tygon models, or Primochill LRT *advanced*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Aside from aesthetics, are there any advantages of bay reservoirs over internal freestanding reservoirs... Or vise versa?


Placement. Bay reservoir is good if you happen to have the 5.25" bay and want to use your pump together with it, space-efficient. The free-standing reservoir and separate pump can both be moved around individually if a bay res is not an option


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Is this any better? I have my SGN2 in a silicone case which unfortunately still allows my finger to touch the lens. Oh and BTW what would you recommend to get rid of the iridescent "Petrol" effect from the window?


I've cheated before and taken the perspex out of the panel for photos!


----------



## Hokies83




----------



## kcuestag

Here it is, all ready!



Next purchase once I have money will be an XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir for my D5 pump, should make everything look much cleaner, plus I will also switch around the in/out of my bottom rad.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here it is, all ready!
> 
> 
> 
> Next purchase once I have money will be an XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir for my D5 pump, should make everything look much cleaner, plus I will also switch around the in/out of my bottom rad.



















Good to see you up and running, looks nice . .

The 360 / 240 combo is hard to beat for painless installation and decent cooling capacity.

How are the temps so far?

Darlene


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I was just about to bleed my loop when I noticed my pump died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will take a week to get a new one and in the meanwhile I can't game


That sucks...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nostra*
> 
> just turned on the beast after filling and leak testing! its running with impressive temps and the silence is unbeliveble my HDDS is the most noisy component


Small case monsta rad








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here it is, all ready!
> 
> 
> 
> Next purchase once I have money will be an XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir for my D5 pump, should make everything look much cleaner, plus I will also switch around the in/out of my bottom rad.


Looks gorgeous!


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Anyone seen a used or new non-CSQ GTX 680 nickel(preferably clear acrylic top)waterblock and backplate floating about on the internet







?


----------



## prznar1

Guys, i need help. I've found a super cheap case (suits me well as im not a biggest fan of hyper expencive cases and im planning on changing my cm590) that has a possibility for easy installation of 360 slim rad on top, but i dunno if there are any holes or space for it at top.
http://www.sabiosdelpc.net/index.php/component/content/article/37-reviews/cajas/130-aerocool-templarius-telum-black-review?showall=&start=5
Here is a review of it. However there is no pic of what is under top cover :S and it's in spanish (hate google translate -_-' and i think it is spanish lol)
What do u think of it? Does it have all required space for 360 slim rad?


----------



## mxthunder

Here are some updated pics of my loop. Just got done installing a 2nd 580. happy with it for now, but still craving more radage, and a 900D

Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## NostraD

Finally got it all back together and folding again....new power supply is super quiet


----------



## intelman

@mxthunder looking good, I really like the blacked out setup!

Here's an update with my new gpu


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intelman*
> 
> @mxthunder looking good, I really like the blacked out setup!
> 
> Here's an update with my new gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, really nice looking bench


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Wow, really nice looking bench


I have to agree with you. It would look even more stunning with an acrylic enclosure on top.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Nice little rigs,very tidy work.


----------



## intelman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I have to agree with you. It would look even more stunning with an acrylic enclosure on top.


You know, so many people have said that, I'm gunna have to consider doing it


----------



## kcuestag

Here is a picture of my rig as it is now with some proper lighting, as well as my room:





Next purchase will be an XSPC Dual Bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it look cleaner.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

What is it with you and zipties?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here is a picture of my rig as it is now with some proper lighting, as well as my room:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next purchase will be an XSPC Dual Bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it look cleaner.


Looks good, but I still like the RV02 case.







How are you're temps?


----------



## LayerCakes

Little update, new blocks, new GPU, new lighting, new mobo and new CPU!


----------



## Bart

Good stuff LayerCakes!







I love how neat and simple your tube runs are. Very clean!


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Good stuff LayerCakes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love how neat and simple your tube runs are. Very clean!


Thank you! I did try!


----------



## airplaneman

LayerCakes, what size tubing is that?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> LayerCakes, what size tubing is that?


It's 3/8"ID


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> It's 3/8"ID


5/8" OD or 1/2" OD?

Looking to use 3/8" ID 5/8" OD for my upcoming build and I wanted to get an idea of how thick it was. I use 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD now and its huge.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> 5/8" OD or 1/2" OD?
> 
> Looking to use 3/8" ID 5/8" OD for my upcoming build and I wanted to get an idea of how thick it was. I use 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD now and its huge.


ohh it's 1/2" OD. Sorry. I do get a bit confused. It's all metric over here! All I knew is that it's 13/10mm!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here is a picture of my rig as it is now with some proper lighting, as well as my room:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next purchase will be an XSPC Dual Bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it look cleaner.


What made you switch from the Silverstone to the Switch? Looks great anyways







Love the green walls too


----------



## nostra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> Here are some updated pics of my loop. Just got done installing a 2nd 580. happy with it for now, but still craving more radage, and a 900D
> 
> Let me know what you guys think.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks really good i love the white lighting! but it would be nice to see some sleeved cabels insted of those ugly wires


----------



## mxthunder

Thanks! Slowly buying sleeved extensions as I can. The fan cables are the last ones remaining.


----------



## CiBi

I was able to fix the pump (more info in my build log)
Now I'm leak testing, my rig should be up an running by tomorrow evening.


----------



## chann3l

THinking off adding a 120 rad to make 360 in total is the swiftech mcr120 extreme series decent?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> 5/8" OD or 1/2" OD?
> 
> Looking to use 3/8" ID 5/8" OD for my upcoming build and I wanted to get an idea of how thick it was. I use 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD now and its huge.


I did extensive searching of opinions on this when I was planning my first WC project and I eventually settled on 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing. It works as sweet as a nut.


----------



## audioholic

Can anyone point me to those little power supply units that just run molex? To test pumps and other things like that? I think they are about 20 dollars.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Can anyone point me to those little power supply units that just run molex? To test pumps and other things like that? I think they are about 20 dollars.


Dazmode.com has them. Not sure where your located but they are in canada and ship to canada and the states. I don't think they do international orders would have to check tho


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Can anyone point me to those little power supply units that just run molex? To test pumps and other things like that? I think they are about 20 dollars.


----------



## KaRLiToS

*Phobya External PSU 230V to 4Pin Molex 90W*



*OR*

*Remote/Secondary Power Supply Starter Cable - Sleeved*


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*


Or use a metal paper clip and bend it into a u shape I like to electrical tape the middle leave about half inch on either end uncovered. Put one end into the pin where the green wire enters on your 24 pin cable and the other end into onew of the black wires on either side of it


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here is a picture of my rig as it is now with some proper lighting, as well as my room:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next purchase will be an XSPC Dual Bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it look cleaner.


Looks great, I still love Switch 810 builds. Any reason you're running dual channel on X79?


----------



## dumbazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Can anyone point me to those little power supply units that just run molex? To test pumps and other things like that? I think they are about 20 dollars.


12v. try radio shack


----------



## xNiNELiVES

360mm push pull

240mm push pull
Waiting on two 90 degree fittings, work in progress.
Also please excuse the iphone 5's camera quality, the tubing isn't as bright as the first picture, its not too dull either... Will get SLR shot uploaded soon


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Ok updated with SLR:

Edited

Original


----------



## Mr357

Here's mine


----------



## Hokies83




----------



## WaitWhat

I know I should make a thread for this but do you guys think the XSPC kits are a good place to start for water cooling?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> I know I should make a thread for this but do you guys think the XSPC kits are a good place to start for water cooling?


You cant go wrong with that kit, which type you are going for?


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> You cant go wrong with that kit, which type you are going for?


Probably go with the Raystorm D5 RX240 or 360, depends if I put the rad in the top or bottom of the case

Be going in a NZXT Phantom 820 so got plenty of options


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Probably go with the Raystorm D5 RX240 or 360, depends if I put the rad in the top or bottom of the case
> 
> Be going in a NZXT Phantom 820 so got plenty of options


Might as well add another 240/280 rad for the bottom case if you are going to cool cpu+graphics








Unless you only going to loop your cpu


----------



## _REAPER_

Small update let me know what you guys think


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Small update let me know what you guys think


Awsome build man.







. Can't wait to see your next update with the Classified(s) under water. Hope it will be soon


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Awsome build man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can't wait to see your next update with the Classified(s) under water. Hope it will be soon


I am not sure if I am going to put the 680s on water, I had a really bad experience with water cooling my GPUs when I had 5970s. I promised myself I would not ever put GPUs on water.

Still thinking about it though lol.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am not sure if I am going to put the 680s on water, I had a really bad experience with water cooling my GPUs when I had 5970s. I promised myself I would not ever put GPUs on water.
> 
> Still thinking about it though lol.


What kind of problem did you have?

Usually you learn by your mistakes. So mistake learned, now you can proceed to watercool them.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Ok updated with SLR:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edited
> 
> Original


What size res is that?


----------



## Fonne

*Phobya Xtreme 200 - V.2 - Full Copper*

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p9272_Phobya-Xtreme-200.html


Quote:


> Now the V2 has not only copper fins, but also copper channels and copper chambers only the threads are made of brass. Additional the thicknes is from now on 45mm and the radiator have 7 pices of 1/4 threads to fit the tube in all needed positions.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *Phobya Xtreme 200 - V.2 - Full Copper*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p9272_Phobya-Xtreme-200.html


Damm.. I just bought the old 200 a couple of weeks ago.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, i need help. I've found a super cheap case (suits me well as im not a biggest fan of hyper expencive cases and im planning on changing my cm590) that has a possibility for easy installation of 360 slim rad on top, but i dunno if there are any holes or space for it at top.
> http://www.sabiosdelpc.net/index.php/component/content/article/37-reviews/cajas/130-aerocool-templarius-telum-black-review?showall=&start=5
> Here is a review of it. However there is no pic of what is under top cover :S and it's in spanish (hate google translate -_-' and i think it is spanish lol)
> What do u think of it? Does it have all required space for 360 slim rad?


bump?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Oh yet another place to spam with pictures of my system


----------



## jackofhearts495

What case is that?


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> What case is that?


IIRC it's a Silverstone Raven RV01.


----------



## HPE1000

It is, I loved it so much when it came out, but never bought it









Silverstone has made the new ravens ugly in my opinion


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> What case is that?


Silverstone RV01B-W, bought it back in 2009.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> IIRC it's a Silverstone Raven RV01.


Yep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> It is, I loved it so much when it came out, but never bought it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silverstone has made the new ravens ugly in my opinion


The Raven RV02 looks really good IMO and is more efficient when you consider how many room is lost in the RV01. I couldn't properly fit a 360 rad inside the case...


----------



## kanaks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Oh yet another place to spam with pictures of my system





That case its like a mech! first case with an external rad that looks that unified.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> That case its like a mech! first case with an external rad that looks that unified.


Thanks I guess, although I'm not sure what "mech" is









In case you were not sarcastic, thanks for the kind words


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Thanks I guess, although I'm not sure what "mech" is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you were not sarcastic, thanks for the kind words


I think he is referring to mech as in Mech Warrior.

Although not my first choice for water cooling it's a great looking case. SUPER aggressive style.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Best looking of the Raven series but the least WC friendly.
You did well.


----------



## Dredknot

Finished my Green build finally. Needs a Name now.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Best looking of the Raven series but the least WC friendly.
> You did well.


Thanks Nega, mironccr345 and ElementR helped me visualize the loop and clean it up. I really had no clue where to start at first and then it all just made sense lol








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I think he is referring to mech as in Mech Warrior.
> 
> Although not my first choice for water cooling it's a great looking case. SUPER aggressive style.


Aggresive







?

Ah, yes it does resemble a robot lol. That's the first thing my sister said when she saw that build


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> bump?


here - got this link from the aerocool site - google is your buddy









http://hardware-academy.org/reviews/36-gehaeuse/248-test-aerocool-strike-x-one-advanced.html?start=2


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Finished my Green build finally. Needs a Name now.


Get some led in the bridge led slot to show it off even more








Great looking rig


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Oh yet another place to spam with pictures of my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome build you have for yourself there. I'll be honest, i normally HATE external rads, even on builds that others love (even some of the MOTMs on this site), but yours is perfect, and doesnt look too out of place.

I didnt want to be a jerk and call out peoples hard work, which is why I just said MOTMs, but I really, really hate external rads. To me, watercooling is about mixing performance with art, and external rads are UGLY


----------



## Crooksy

If you were to pick any brand of coloured tubing, who would you most likely go with? I can only seem to get easy access to Masterkleer, would you be happy with choosing that?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> If you were to pick any brand of coloured tubing, who would you most likely go with? I can only seem to get easy access to Masterkleer, would you be happy with choosing that?


Well it's not Primochill, so it sounds good!


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> here - got this link from the aerocool site - google is your buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hardware-academy.org/reviews/36-gehaeuse/248-test-aerocool-strike-x-one-advanced.html?start=2


But it is not the same case. In templarius telum u can put a 3 120mm fans on top while in strike x one only 2.


----------



## YowZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Oh yet another place to spam with pictures of my system


loving the raven,
and hands down the best implementation of an external radiator I've ever seen. looks the tits mate! good job.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YowZ*
> 
> loving the raven,
> and hands down the best implementation of an external radiator I've ever seen. looks the tits mate! good job.


Lol, thanks for the compliment man. I don't think the external rad mount is that special, but I'm glad it didn't turn out as ugly as I had thought








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> Awesome build you have for yourself there. I'll be honest, i normally HATE external rads, even on builds that others love (even some of the MOTMs on this site), but yours is perfect, and doesnt look too out of place.
> 
> I didnt want to be a jerk and call out peoples hard work, which is why I just said MOTMs, but I really, really hate external rads. To me, watercooling is about mixing performance with art, and external rads are UGLY


Thanks man. I hate external rads as well. It just makes the system more vulnerable and dust will probably be annoying as hell. It isn't really any better temps wise either. I really wanted to smash this case when I saw it couldn't fit a 360 rad but then I just tried to make the best of it. I actually wanted to buy a Define r4 but didn't want to buy a new case on top of all the new gear...


----------



## Newbold3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It has changed a little bit since theses pictures. I am currently running a mcp655 instead of the dual mcp350's, I have an 120gb OCZ Agility instead of the Crucial, and I have changed the radiator fans to 2150rpm Gently Typhoons that I painted orange. Everything else is the same though.


Hey *morencyam* Ive actually just created an account after seeing your build, its amazing! Perfect amount of UV Orange. Im just wondering if you would be so kind as to let me know what UV light and tubing your using? Also are you using as special coolant or are the tubes opaque? What size diameter of the tubes? Sorry for all the questions lol.

Thanks in advance if you reply!

Tom


----------



## setza

Hi all. Would this idea for a drain port work?


The central port will be my drain port, it will just have an extension with a plug at the end and will be facing the to the outside of the case. The other option would be using a normal T splitter, but I need the 90° bend, and adding a 90° fitting would make it too tall.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setza*
> 
> Hi all. Would this idea for a drain port work?
> 
> 
> The central port will be my drain port, it will just have an extension with a plug at the end and will be facing the to the outside of the case. The other option would be using a normal T splitter, but I need the 90° bend, and adding a 90° fitting would make it too tall.


Seeing the picture, the rad will still be under the draining port , am i right?
the main point of draining port is to have it at the lowest point in your loop
Else it wont work optimally unless you dont mind tilting your case when draining. Its hard if youve lots and fragile components


----------



## setza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Seeing the picture, the rad will still be under the draining port , am i right?
> the main point of draining port is to have it at the lowest point in your loop
> Else it wont work optimally unless you dont mind tilting your case when draining. Its hard if youve lots and fragile components


Yeah, the rad would be under that. What would be another solution then, with a bottom mounted rad?


----------



## Hokies83

Has anyone thought of using strobe lights and a small smoke machine in there rig yet?


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Has anyone thought of using strobe lights and a small smoke machine in there rig yet?


Reminded me of this for some reason.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwZwkk7q25I


----------



## crazyg0od33

no, but id love to see it


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> no, but id love to see it


Im thinking about it...

trying to go off the wall with my build... i already have the first mid Air mounted side ways frozen Q helix res XD



But i am worried about the smoke leaving residue...

Hmmm


----------



## wermad

Lol, reminds me of this:


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setza*
> 
> Yeah, the rad would be under that. What would be another solution then, with a bottom mounted rad?


Would be great if there is a picture of your loop plan, cant really advice with just words


----------



## setza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Would be great if there is a picture of your loop plan, cant really advice with just words


Well, I still have to order the parts. The closest thing to what I have in mind is this.



I'll be using a bay reservoir/pump combo, but only 1 video card instead of the 2 it shows there.


----------



## Deornoth

Define Mini with an EX360 on top. Im in the middle of modding the top of the case to be able to mount the radiator properly, so it's a bit of a wreck at the moment











Progress on the top:



*Build Log for more details and pictures*


----------



## Hanoverfist

Slide Show of a Work In Progress


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newbold3d*
> 
> Hey *morencyam* Ive actually just created an account after seeing your build, its amazing! Perfect amount of UV Orange. Im just wondering if you would be so kind as to let me know what UV light and tubing your using? Also are you using as special coolant or are the tubes opaque? What size diameter of the tubes? Sorry for all the questions lol.
> 
> Thanks in advance if you reply!
> 
> Tom


Hey Tom, thanks for the kind words. I'm using 7/16" x 5/8" XSPC High Flex UV Orange tubing with a single 12' UV ccfl tube. The tubes are somewhat transparent in the light, but are opaque under the UV light. No special coolant or anything else. Just standard distilled water. I do have an orange led in the bottom of the reservoir that reflects off any bubbles in the res, which gave it that effect in the second picture.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Slide Show of a Work In Progress


I was electrocuted!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setza*
> 
> Well, I still have to order the parts. The closest thing to what I have in mind is this.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be using a bay reservoir/pump combo, but only 1 video card instead of the 2 it shows there.


I know what you mean now, are you planning to add the draining line at one of the bottom rad port right?
In that case i have the same setup as that to be honest its not working optimally since there will still be water stuck at the bottom rad
But with a little tilting and blowing it still got the job done
Are you using the switch 810 as well?


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Man, trying to find old non-CSQ 680/7970 EK Nickel/Plexi blocks and backplates is proving to be rather difficult...


----------



## nzube14

Another addition to the list?








Check out my rest of my build here!


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzube14*
> 
> Another addition to the list?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my rest of my build here!


OOO a comodo!!


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I think he is referring to mech as in Mech Warrior.
> 
> Although not my first choice for water cooling it's a great looking case. SUPER aggressive style.


Yes Indeed something like that


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzube14*
> 
> Another addition to the list?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my rest of my build here!


Looks absolutely stunning. I love red builds when done right (deep enough)

This is my favorite pic though










@kanaks

Yeah, it does look like an Autobot or Decepticon after you mentioned it lol









Was not my intention though, I think it will look like a robot whatever you do with it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Not a fan of FQ res but the rest of the build is tidy.


----------



## setza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I know what you mean now, are you planning to add the draining line at one of the bottom rad port right?
> In that case i have the same setup as that to be honest its not working optimally since there will still be water stuck at the bottom rad
> But with a little tilting and blowing it still got the job done
> Are you using the switch 810 as well?


I have seen your build, and first let me tell you that you have a sexy rig there







But yeah that's the idea I had, and yup I'll be also using the switch 810. It seems that is the only option for a drain port, unless i get a rad with front ports and add the drain port there, idk.


----------



## MikeG

Hey, can I join the club? I'm new to overclocking, but catch on pretty quick. This is my first attempt at water-cooling. I kind of mashed the pins on my CPU socket the first time around by over-tightening the water block. Could not boot into the BIOS--code 55. Lesson learned--got a new mobo and it''s working good now:





I have my rig out on the balcony and am running some benchmarks. The outside temperature is -7C. The first time I tried this, I was okay for about an hour, then my coolant (distilled water) started to freeze and my temps started rising. I drained all of the water and added 50/50 pre-diluted antifreeze that I got from the auto parts store (contains ethylene glycol and diethylene glycol). I hope this is correct. It seems to work real good and I had my computer out on the balcony for 12 hours without any problems. I figured as long as everything is at ambient temperature, I shouldn't have any problems with condensation. I did not notice any signs of condensation, and made sure to let the temperatures equalize to ambient before powering it on. Same thing goes when moving it back indoors. Feel free to correct me if I'm doing this wrong, like I said, I'm still learning:



Here are my temps. Does anyone know whether Real Temp can display negative values?


----------



## morencyam

I've never really seen people putting their entire case outside. Although I've seen a few people putting the radiator outside or right next to a window. The only thing that would worry me is getting random crud in the case, like bugs and leaves and the like. Not to mention the risk of either rain or snow getting in there.
Other than that, it's a nice looking build. I really like that waterblock. Is that a Koolance 380? And get that GPU under water next


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've never really seen people putting their entire outside. Although I've seen a few people putting the radiator outside or right next to a window. The only thing that would worry me is getting random crud in the case, like bugs and leaves and the like. Not to mention the risk of either rain or snow getting in there.
> Other than that, it's a nice looking build. I really like that waterblock. Is that a Koolance 380? And get that GPU under water next


Not many options if you have a crappy case..

But i may do one of those 3x 480rads all in one deals they look pretty sweet...

Mount it to the wall etc lol.

Waiting from some maybe Sponsors of my build tho before i do much more.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Man, trying to find old non-CSQ 680/7970 EK Nickel/Plexi blocks and backplates is proving to be rather difficult...


saw a 7970 on ebay a few days ago. Keep searching and you'll find one soon


----------



## MikeG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've never really seen people putting their entire outside. Although I've seen a few people putting the radiator outside or right next to a window. The only thing that would worry me is getting random crud in the case, like bugs and leaves and the like. Not to mention the risk of either rain or snow getting in there.
> Other than that, it's a nice looking build. I really like that waterblock. Is that a Koolance 380? And get that GPU under water next


I don't leave it out there of course--just trying for a good run for the Multi-threaded Mayhem.









Yes, that is a Koolance 380. I absolutely love it and it seems to be a good combination with my D5 vario pump! It works well no matter if the pump is set to low, medium or high. I do get slightly better temps (1 or 2 degrees) with the pump on max. The other thing I like about the 380 is that there is not much wiggle room when I mount it on top of my CPU, so I get very consistent mounts every time. The only negative thing (not really a negative) is that they manufacture the 380 with a slight convex bow to it so that it will match the concaveness of the modern Intel CPUs. This is a good thing, but can be bad if you have already lapped your CPU. Because I had already lapped my CPU, I had to lap the waterblock as well. It is debatable whether lapping your CPU helps. It did not help for me when used with the stock Intel cooler. My temps went up by about 2 degrees. I think Intel makes the IHS concave for a reason.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Does anyone know whether Real Temp can display negative values?


Not sure if real temp does but I know HW monitor does









Great idea to get some cool temps for some great clocks


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I've had Coretemp and Realtemp show negative numbers before when I had aircooling.


----------



## MikeG

I'm looking for a way to hook up and control six 3-wire radiator fans. After some searching, I discovered this Sunbeam Rheosmart 3 Fan Controller. It seems to provide the functionality I'm looking for. It says it can support 30W/channel, so I should be able to two fans (my fans are in push pull) to each channel. It can be controlled manually or by any PWM header on the motherboard. This sounds exactly what I'm looking for. I can hide it in my drive bay and control my fans from my mobo. My only question is, has anybody used it and does it work?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Finished my Green build finally. Needs a Name now.


Wow, completely missed this post, looks great although the fluid is a little too light, should add some more green to match the tubing etc.

What do you think about Leprechaun as a name for your build?


----------



## trippinonprozac

Build is all but done now so thought I would share









Please critique


----------



## dmanstasiu

Only critique is zip-tie the GPU PCI-e cables. That's all ..


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> But it is not the same case. In templarius telum u can put a 3 120mm fans on top while in strike x one only 2.


My bad - I took a google link ... you're right, that's the only online review of the Templarius Telum case - and tho the specs say it can support upto 10 fans, there's no definitive view of the top panel to see if there are indeed, any fan mounts.

The one shot of the top panel, when clicked on, is a blowup of the internal, looking to the front of the case !


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Only critique is zip-tie the GPU PCI-e cables. That's all ..


I have actually changed the GPU cables now so they do look a bit better -


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Only critique is zip-tie the GPU PCI-e cables. That's all ..
> 
> 
> 
> I have actually changed the GPU cables now so they do look a bit better -
Click to expand...

I think that's the optimal way to do your pci-e cables, after all that experimenting!
The build is looking great.








Because of many similarities yours has with mine, I'll be asking a few questions on your build log.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## mxthunder

holy crap! how many thousands of $$ in fittings is that?


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> holy crap! how many thousands of $$ in fittings is that?


You should see the rest of his collection...


----------



## dmanstasiu




----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I think that's the optimal way to do your pci-e cables, after all that experimenting!
> The build is looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of many similarities yours has with mine, I'll be asking a few questions on your build log.


I think I might give the cable sewing a go to see what it looks like.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> You should see the rest of his collection...


Someone should call the book of Guinness world records... Or the producers of that show Hoarders. That is one serious collection of fittings. I can only imagine the kind of build you can create with all of those.


----------



## george_orm

hey guy, redoing loop soon as am going hand made case.
however, can i run MCP350 pumps with out a costom top? ( with 1/4 inch tubing)
would be ordering from bmaverick ( so these pumps http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/ )

want to get rid of crappy xspc750 dual bay, thing rattles, with the case.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> I have actually changed the GPU cables now so they do look a bit better -


Hey man, nice rig!! Is there a reason why you are running your Dual GPU setup in 2nd and 3rd slot?


----------



## MikeG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> want to get rid of crappy xspc750 dual bay, thing rattles, with the case.


I have the XSPC D5 Dual Bay Res/Pump and have the same problem with noise. The pump is fantastic and moves a lot of water, but the reservoir fits pretty snug within the drive bay and there is no room to put any grommets to decouple it from the case. As you can see in the photo, I was testing mine on a piece of foam outside the case. It is actually very quiet even on full power. Anybody have any ideas on how and where to mount this and properly decouple it from the case?


----------



## mxthunder

^ I am having the same issue. The pump is fine when its on its own but as soon as I put the front on my 700D it gets louder. I bought a bunch of sound dampening material from frozencpu and it helped a log. I also installed mine in the lowest 5.25" bay, and chopped up an old mouse pad and put it under the pump itself where the large nut is. Now its almost completely silent on setting 5.


----------



## TheMadHerbalist

A lot of awesome work in here.
Here's what i have so far, still need to do the sleeveing.


----------



## setza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> ^ I am having the same issue. The pump is fine when its on its own but as soon as I put the front on my 700D it gets louder. I bought a bunch of sound dampening material from frozencpu and it helped a log. I also installed mine in the lowest 5.25" bay, and chopped up an old mouse pad and put it under the pump itself where the large nut is. Now its almost completely silent on setting 5.


By any chance would it be this? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3455/scr-07/Rubber_Grommet.html?tl=g7c111s202&id=PehocQcq&mv_pc=15761


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setza*
> 
> By any chance would it be this? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3455/scr-07/Rubber_Grommet.html?tl=g7c111s202&id=PehocQcq&mv_pc=15761


I bought those for 15 cents a piece at my local hardware store.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> I have actually changed the GPU cables now so they do look a bit better -


Why do people hide the res with a bunch of gpu cables?

Sexy looking all the same mate


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Why do people hide the res with a bunch of gpu cables?
> 
> Sexy looking all the same mate


I made mine float lol.


----------



## GhostDog99

Hey This is my new rig I'm working on just
Got it up and running and now I see I forgot
To use the quick disconnect in the loops lol
Now I need to start over and put them in


----------



## tiran

So today I finally got the courage to post my setup...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I made mine float lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I had one mounted similar last year but eventually changed it as it was "hiding" the cpu block. Might be pics in my old Switch build log. Ah here it is. I eventually changed almost everything in that build.
http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a0/600x450px-LL-a0a13bc3_Loop1003.jpeg


----------



## snapsimo

I was thinking of using a bay res on my latest build but went for a normal res as I didnt want the noise.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadHerbalist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of awesome work in here.
> Here's what i have so far, still need to do the sleeveing.


That looks quite beautiful


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapsimo*
> 
> I was thinking of using a bay res on my latest build but went for a normal res as I didnt want the noise.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


How is a bayres noisy? I have an RP452x2 but it has no components to make it noisy...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So the Aquaero plan starts to come together....





Slaved to this...



= 8" touchscreen controlled Aquasuite.

Awwwwww Yeah!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Digging that like a miner


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So the Aquaero plan starts to come together....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slaved to this...
> 
> 
> 
> = 8" touchscreen controlled Aquasuite.
> 
> Awwwwww Yeah!






Jealous! where is your log for that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So the Aquaero plan starts to come together....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slaved to this...
> 
> 
> 
> = 8" touchscreen controlled Aquasuite.
> 
> Awwwwww Yeah!
> 
> 
> 
> Jealous! where is your log for that.
Click to expand...

SR-2 build log is in my sig.
Still waiting for the screen and all of the rest of the AC gear.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> ^ I am having the same issue. The pump is fine when its on its own but as soon as I put the front on my 700D it gets louder. I bought a bunch of sound dampening material from frozencpu and it helped a log. I also installed mine in the lowest 5.25" bay, and chopped up an old mouse pad and put it under the pump itself where the large nut is. Now its almost completely silent on setting 5.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapsimo*
> 
> I was thinking of using a bay res on my latest build but went for a normal res as I didnt want the noise.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD




I cut up the foam pad that came with my MCP655 and stuck them to strategic places on the pump. Decouples the res from the case pretty well.
If I put my finger on the pump, I feel lots of vibrations, but I feel none when I put my finger on the side of the drive bays.

It takes a bit of maneuvering to get the res into the case with crap stuck to it like that but it does work.

EDIT: its hard to tell from the picture, but theres two pieces of foam, the big one on the side and one on the top of the inside of that slot for the drive bay rail.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I had one mounted similar last year but eventually changed it as it was "hiding" the cpu block. Might be pics in my old Switch build log. Ah here it is. I eventually changed almost everything in that build.
> http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a0/600x450px-LL-a0a13bc3_Loop1003.jpeg


Yah but the 9 inches above the MB tray really allows me to give it the free floating look lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yah but the 9 inches above the MB tray really allows me to give it the free floating look lol.


Mine is floating too









I'm in the market for a bay res. Really liking frozenq one


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine is floating too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the market for a bay res. Really liking frozenq one


Hmm can u hook pumps up to them?

Cause all my bays are full LoL 2x Fan controllers on the left... And Xspc pump/res on the right..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I had one mounted similar last year but eventually changed it as it was "hiding" the cpu block. Might be pics in my old Switch build log. Ah here it is. I eventually changed almost everything in that build.
> http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a0/600x450px-LL-a0a13bc3_Loop1003.jpeg
> 
> 
> 
> Yah but the 9 inches above the MB tray really allows me to give it the free floating look lol.
Click to expand...

I did something similar with my old scout....



One of the shortest loops ever....10" of hose.

I do miss the old girl.....


----------



## kcuestag

Swiftech MCR220 or HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240?

I have both already, using the MCR220 right now, although the GTS240 is much newer and better looking, how do they compare in performance?

Might as well use both in the future, but for now I'm using one of them.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did something similar with my old scout....
> 
> 
> 
> One of the shortest loops ever....10" of hose.
> 
> I do miss the old girl.....


How did you mounted that res? its kinda looks good


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So the Aquaero plan starts to come together....
> 
> Slaved to this...
> 
> = 8" touchscreen controlled Aquasuite.
> 
> Awwwwww Yeah!


I just read all the posts in your SR-2 build log, and man words can not describe how epic that build is. When determining the amount of win in that build my brain divided by zero









That build just needs an epic name though, probably the reason I couldn't find it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did something similar with my old scout....
> 
> 
> 
> One of the shortest loops ever....10" of hose.
> 
> I do miss the old girl.....
> 
> 
> 
> How did you mounted that res? its kinda looks good
Click to expand...

10mm male to male directly on to the res

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So the Aquaero plan starts to come together....
> 
> Slaved to this...
> 
> = 8" touchscreen controlled Aquasuite.
> 
> Awwwwww Yeah!
> 
> 
> 
> I just read all the posts in your SR-2 build log, and man words can not describe how epic that build is. When determining the amount of win in that build my brain divided by zero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That build just needs an epic name though, probably the reason I couldn't find it.
Click to expand...

I am not good with naming stuff,I tend to go all Boba Fett and name it something utilitarian.
Thanks tho man,its nice to see someone read the log,Its getting an overhaul soon,SR-2.2.


----------



## Bezna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I just read all the posts in your SR-2 build log, and man words can not describe how epic that build is. When determining the amount of win in that build my brain divided by zero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That build just needs an epic name though, probably the reason I couldn't find it.


^ I agree 100%


----------



## rohan2jos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Build is all but done now so thought I would share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please critique



















:-Dreaming of this-:

Sigh!!!! Someday!!!!

I like


----------



## Rivis

Finally, here's my first water cooled rig...

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/255/sam2017j.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/sam2018h.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/wp000275z.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/26/wp000273x.jpg/

Took a lot of effort, and is far from perfect but i'm very happy with it







. Everything worked when i hooked it back up








Please tell me about anything you think i should do to improve the loop


----------



## InsideJob

I haven't posted my rig in here in just about forever. I hope to get a custom loop started within the next 2 months. Hope you guys like it, despite the AIO


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Definately ready for a custom loop









Nice sleeving and color scheme, but the Kuhler is not done. I smashed mine after I got the custom loop









(It was already broken)


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Definately ready for a custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice sleeving and color scheme, but the Kuhler is not done. I smashed mine after I got the custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (It was already broken)


Thanks







This thread has done nothing but make my desire for a custom loop more intense







I can't wait to get it done









I would consider smashing this thing broken or not. A waste of $45 imo at this point.


----------



## Stige

Finaly got a case that actually fits everything


----------



## stl drifter

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*






What res and pumps are those ?


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hey man, nice rig!! Is there a reason why you are running your Dual GPU setup in 2nd and 3rd slot?


With the 3 slot GPU bridge it was the only option to have them both in x16 lanes.

I did have the upper card up one more slot but it ran at x8


----------



## OmniScience

Hey all,

Just thought I'd drop a line. Can't wait to join all of you with a watercooled build. I have big plans for this one;P Check the order I'm waiting on:

*Products*



Spoiler: Parts Order List:



*Products*




1 x



XSPC RX240 Extreme Performance Radiator *Version 2* (XSPC-RX240)

_Nozzles No Nozzles_



*$69.95*



2 x



**** NEW **** XSPC Razor GTX 690 - Full Cover VGA Water-Block with Multiport Connector (XSPC-RZR-GTX690)

_Fitting Size 3/8" Barb for 3/8" ID tube_



*$259.90*



10 x



PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing -3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD (PFLEXP-58-B)



*$16.00*



1 x



*** Scratch & Dent *** Hexis HX30000 3D Carbon Film - 11.5" x 25" (HEXIS-SND3)



*$11.21*



2 x



*** Scratch & Dent *** Hexis HX30000 3D Carbon Film - 11.5" x 12.5" (HEXIS-SND1)



*$14.92*



6 x



A. C. Ryan Serial ATA II Data Cable with Latch 100cm (40") - UV Reactive Blue (ACR-SA6030)



*$2.94*



1 x



*** HOT *** Bitspower BP-MVV-BK Mini-Valve - Black Sparkle (BP-MVV-BKBK)



*$18.99*



2 x



Bitspower Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Black Sparkle Finish (BP-BSWP-C08)



*$9.98*



2 x



Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter (BP-BS90R2)



*$29.90*



2 x



Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" (BP-BS45R2CPF-CC3)



*$31.90*



1 x



XSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Watercooling Kit w/ RX360 Rev 2 Radiator/D5 Pump/Res (XSPC-EXT-WC-KIT-RX360-D5)

_LED Color Blue_

_CPU Waterblock XSPC Raystorm - Intel_

_XSPC 120mm Radiator Fans XSPC 120mm 1200RPM Fan_

_Fitting Size 3/8" x 5/8"_

_Compression Fitting Color Black Chrome Finish_

_Tubing 2M (6.5')' XSPC HighFlex Water Tubing - Clear/UV_

_Coolant No Coolant_

_Rad Stands No Rad Stands_



*$299.99*



1 x



*** HOT *** Hexis HX30000 3D Carbon Film (HEXIS)

_Size 24" x 48"_



*$39.95*









---------



*Sub-Total:*



$805.63



*United Parcel Service (Canada Standard):*



$54.41



*Discount Coupons: HARBOWL-8 :*



-$64.45



*Total:*



$795.59






I have an interesting loop idea that I'm going to try. Ill post back when its all together with some pics of my 690's doused in water.

PS: Oh ignore the few little peripherals here and there. They may work themselves into a project.

Would love feedback from you guys seeing as you all have substantially more experience than myself.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmniScience*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Just thought I'd drop a line. Can't wait to join all of you with a watercooled build. I have big plans for this one;P Check the order I'm waiting on:
> 
> *Products*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Parts Order List:
> 
> 
> 
> *Products*
> 
> 1 xXSPC RX240 Extreme Performance Radiator *Version 2* (XSPC-RX240)
> _Nozzles No Nozzles_*$69.95*2 x**** NEW **** XSPC Razor GTX 690 - Full Cover VGA Water-Block with Multiport Connector (XSPC-RZR-GTX690)
> _Fitting Size 3/8" Barb for 3/8" ID tube_*$259.90*10 xPrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing -3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD (PFLEXP-58-B)*$16.00*1 x*** Scratch & Dent *** Hexis HX30000 3D Carbon Film - 11.5" x 25" (HEXIS-SND3)*$11.21*2 x*** Scratch & Dent *** Hexis HX30000 3D Carbon Film - 11.5" x 12.5" (HEXIS-SND1)*$14.92*6 xA. C. Ryan Serial ATA II Data Cable with Latch 100cm (40") - UV Reactive Blue (ACR-SA6030)*$2.94*1 x*** HOT *** Bitspower BP-MVV-BK Mini-Valve - Black Sparkle (BP-MVV-BKBK)*$18.99*2 xBitspower Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Black Sparkle Finish (BP-BSWP-C08)*$9.98*2 xBitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter (BP-BS90R2)*$29.90*2 xBitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" (BP-BS45R2CPF-CC3)*$31.90*1 xXSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Watercooling Kit w/ RX360 Rev 2 Radiator/D5 Pump/Res (XSPC-EXT-WC-KIT-RX360-D5)
> _LED Color Blue_
> _CPU Waterblock XSPC Raystorm - Intel_
> _XSPC 120mm Radiator Fans XSPC 120mm 1200RPM Fan_
> _Fitting Size 3/8" x 5/8"_
> _Compression Fitting Color Black Chrome Finish_
> _Tubing 2M (6.5')' XSPC HighFlex Water Tubing - Clear/UV_
> _Coolant No Coolant_
> _Rad Stands No Rad Stands_*$299.99*1 x*** HOT *** Hexis HX30000 3D Carbon Film (HEXIS)
> _Size 24" x 48"_*$39.95*
> 
> 
> 
> *Sub-Total:*$805.63*United Parcel Service (Canada Standard):*$54.41*Discount Coupons: HARBOWL-8 :*-$64.45*Total:*$795.59
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an interesting loop idea that I'm going to try. Ill post back when its all together with some pics of my 690's doused in water.
> PS: Oh ignore the few little peripherals here and there. They may work themselves into a project.
> 
> Would love feedback from you guys seeing as you all have substantially more experience than myself.


My advice is to skip the 690 block and get two universals. $260 is way too much for my blood


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So the Aquaero plan starts to come together....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slaved to this...
> 
> 
> 
> = 8" touchscreen controlled Aquasuite.
> 
> Awwwwww Yeah!


Yeah, Aquaero is so much nicer than all the rest, wouldn't trade mine for 10 of any other controllers.

What made you decide to include a touch screen ? Just because?








I'm pretty happy with a somewhat minimal display on my desktop, although I do keep one page highly configured.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> How is a bayres noisy? I have an RP452x2 but it has no components to make it noisy...


I have an xspc dual bay res with ddc laing pump and I don't have any noise issues. Depends on the case I guess


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So the Aquaero plan starts to come together....
> 
> 
> 
> = 8" touchscreen controlled Aquasuite.
> 
> Awwwwww Yeah!


What type of touch screen is that & where can i pick one up?

Im presuming it fits nicely within the drive bays without much modding?


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setza*
> 
> By any chance would it be this? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3455/scr-07/Rubber_Grommet.html?tl=g7c111s202&id=PehocQcq&mv_pc=15761


actually, this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3039/noi-02/FrozenCPU_Noise_Dampening_Material.html?tl=g33


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Finaly got a case that actually fits everything


I think this is only the second one I have seen in this thread.

I like how simple everything fits in.

The other one coming to memory has Monsta's growing in it


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> I have an xspc dual bay res with ddc laing pump and I don't have any noise issues. Depends on the case I guess


I have one i tested out of the system and it has a rattle to it.. I think the screws have come loose.. but there is no way to get them tight...

Paid 30$ shipped for it so i can live with it for now.. will replace it with a MCP 35X sooner or later.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I have one i tested out of the system and it has a rattle to it.. I think the screws have come loose.. but there is no way to get them tight...
> 
> Paid 30$ shipped for it so i can live with it for now.. will replace it with a MCP 35X sooner or later.


Drain, pull out, tighten? or you don't wish to go through the effort for a litttle noise? lol


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Drain, pull out, tighten? or you don't wish to go through the effort for a litttle noise? lol


Does not come Apart.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Does not come Apart.


Nvmd I thought you had the same as me dual bay res with ddc pump mounted


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Nvmd I thought you had the same as me dual bay res with ddc pump mounted


I do i just think it is an older version cause other then melting the glue holding the res together there is no way to get to the pump inside.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I do i just think it is an older version cause other then melting the glue holding the res together there is no way to get to the pump inside.


Oh ok makes sense id just tolerate the noise than lol


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I think this is only the second one I have seen in this thread.
> 
> I like how simple everything fits in.
> 
> The other one coming to memory has Monsta's growing in it


It is a realief when in my previous case (Antec Sonata III) I had to squeeze the GPU ni there, it was so tight fit that you couldn't fit a SATA cable between the HDD rack and the GPU lol


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> It is a realief when in my previous case (Antec Sonata III) I had to squeeze the GPU ni there, it was so tight fit that you couldn't fit a SATA cable between the HDD rack and the GPU lol


Yea, this xigmatek is a huge monster. it is so big that probably you could put ur old case in it lol.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Yea, this xigmatek is a huge monster. it is so big that probably you could put ur old case in it lol.


And the weight is equally enormous lol, it has to weigh more than a old 32" TV does


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So the Aquaero plan starts to come together....
> 
> 
> 
> = 8" touchscreen controlled Aquasuite.
> 
> Awwwwww Yeah!
> 
> 
> 
> What type of touch screen is that & where can i pick one up?
> 
> Im presuming it fits nicely within the drive bays without much modding?
Click to expand...

The whole thing runs of a single USB power/video feed.

http://www.carcomputer.co.uk/index.php?/monitors/open-frame-monitors/of%C2%B7displaylink-7-displaylink-open-frame-monitor

There will be modding and some coding involved.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Some boys get all the toys


----------



## Jorvin

Some pictures of my new rig


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

^^^

Very nice rig there!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

V8...whats not to like?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Some pictures of my new rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa! sweet rig.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> V8...whats not to like?


yea its so nice to build when you have space


----------



## kcuestag

http://prosilentpc.com/es/bahia-para-bombas/48-xspc-acrylic-para-laing-d5.html

http://prosilentpc.com/es/deposito/243-xspc-acrylic-dual-525-laing-d5-*****.html

Which of these two reservoirs should I go for? I prefer the 2nd one as it's fully acrylic and because I can change the front panel to silver instead of black, but how about performance on my D5, both perform the same in flow/pressure and noise?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Go with the acrylic one,theblck one has top warping issues and airlocks are common


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go with the acrylic one,theblck one has top warping issues and airlocks are common


Thanks!


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go with the acrylic one,theblck one has top warping issues and airlocks are common


Wish I had know this before I got one. Now I have a job I plan to do my V8 justice and get another tube res and if I can afford it go all SSD and take the HDD and 5,25 bays out.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> http://prosilentpc.com/es/bahia-para-bombas/48-xspc-acrylic-para-laing-d5.html
> 
> http://prosilentpc.com/es/deposito/243-xspc-acrylic-dual-525-laing-d5-*****.html
> 
> Which of these two reservoirs should I go for? I prefer the 2nd one as it's fully acrylic and because I can change the front panel to silver instead of black, but how about performance on my D5, both perform the same in flow/pressure and noise?


I've got the acrylic one but for ddc Laing and its nice. Beware the fil port isn't 1/4 so you can do a fill tube that screws in as I thought I could had to just fit a tube over a funnel and push it in


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go with the acrylic one,theblck one has top warping issues and airlocks are common
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I had know this before I got one. Now I have a job I plan to do my V8 justice and get another tube res and if I can afford it go all SSD and *take the HDD and 5,25 bays out*.
Click to expand...

Thats what im planning on myself,putting 2 aqualis res and tops in the space.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> I've got the acrylic one but for ddc Laing and its nice. Beware the fil port isn't 1/4 so you can do a fill tube that screws in as I thought I could had to just fit a tube over a funnel and push it in


Also thought there would be a port to pet air out in case anyone is wondering how I thought screwing it in would work


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats what im planning on myself,putting 2 aqualis res and tops in the space.


How are you planning to mount the screens? I was going to have 2 tube RESs the with a D5 each them have a blank to fill the drive bay hole using the res clip-on's to hold the blank in place.


----------



## kcuestag

I could add another 240mm rad in my case removing the top HDD Cages and putting it in the front intake fans (Already removed one of the cages), but then I have no idea where I'd install my 3 hard drives to keep them at reasonable temperatures.

Should I even bother with that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats what im planning on myself,putting 2 aqualis res and tops in the space.
> 
> 
> 
> How are you planning to mount the screens? I was going to have 2 tube RESs the with a D5 each them have a blank to fill the drive bay hole using the res clip-on's to hold the blank in place.
Click to expand...

Fabricating them out of sheet alu


----------



## superericla

Once the PSU accessory and 480mm radiator flex bay mounts arrived, I was able to get the third radiator in my ST10. I now have two 420mm radiators, and a 480mm radiator, as well as a power supply inside the case.


----------



## tiborrr12




----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


PowerColor 7990 water block?

No circles


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*


nice if ek will start making blocks without the circlels again


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I could add another 240mm rad in my case removing the top HDD Cages and putting it in the front intake fans (Already removed one of the cages), but then I have no idea where I'd install my 3 hard drives to keep them at reasonable temperatures.
> 
> Should I even bother with that?


So you want to go with something like this?

I wouldn't even bother.
Would probably be better off doing something like I did if you want to go all out like that and run a 360 up top and a 360 in the front.

But if you have 3 hard drive it would be a real PIA. I had two SSDs which I was able to stick behind the motherboard tray, and them laid my one HDD down at the bottom behind the front radiator.


----------



## Bezna

whats wrong with circles?


----------



## Crooksy

Where can I get some god damned LRT advanced in bloodshed red in the UK!?

Having it shipped from the US costs $45 alone!


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vio2700k*
> 
> whats wrong with circles?


nothing wrong with circles but its just so repetive that it makes the block look like a wallpaper from the 60's, a more abstrakt circle patern would be better i think


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vio2700k*
> 
> whats wrong with circles?


The watercooling community more or less decided it would start an illogical hate against the circles. They've grown on me


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> *The watercooling community more or less decided it would start an illogical hate against the circles*. They've grown on me


And everyone jumped on the bandwagon.


----------



## Bezna

i like em


----------



## crazyg0od33

I love them. I recently had a huge leak (pump detached from the top, and the entire loop emptied itself into my build and onto the desk) I ended up getting an EK Acetal X-Top, with the CSQ design, and damn is it pretty. I love it, its really cool looking. Next upgrade I make I'm totally down for a reference card instead of my 580 classy HC's, and replacing all the blocks with CSQ ones. EXCEPT the CPU block...I'm sticking with my CPU-380 from koolance, its obnoxiously good


----------



## Canis-X

I can't stand the circles, imo they are eye-sores and majorly detract from the beauty that watercooling should be. Besides they remind me of bubbles and I hate having bubbles in my loops.


----------



## Qu1ckset

i hate them the circles!!









and the Supreme HF blocks look way better then there Supremacy blocks!


----------



## Shultzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Man, trying to find old non-CSQ 680/7970 EK Nickel/Plexi blocks and backplates is proving to be rather difficult...


I have an ek 7970 block that I will be getting rid of soon along with some extra parts for it. I'll be swapping for the new csq Style to keep all my components matching.


----------



## Qu1ckset

updated my dye color what do you guys think? (really heard to capture the UV effect with a cellphone camera)


----------



## iMica

I like the circles ; - ;

Gives a little life to everything. I rather look at the circles then the back of a the graphic card or a giant air cooler lol


----------



## Canis-X

Yeah...hey EK....the 70's called, they want their circles back!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I actually love my Supremacy. It looks really good IRL


----------



## crazyg0od33

yeah lets not start another CSQ hate thread lol...


----------



## Canis-X

Makes me want to play tick-tack-toe...LOL...looks like the O's won!!









[/kicking_dead_horse]


----------



## dmanstasiu

Doesn't look UV at *all*. Looks good nonetheless
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I actually love my Supremacy. It looks really good IRL
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










That acrylic top looks really good. I'm sold ...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> yeah lets not start another CSQ hate thread lol...


This. Yes please, enough


----------



## iMica

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I actually love my Supremacy. It looks really good IRL






That makes me regret buying a raystorm block lol.....

Edit: Also I dont like them parallelograms on other EK stuff. Taste is taste.


----------



## Fonne

A new Nova 1080p ?

*Phobya G-Changer XTREME Nova 1080 Full Copper Radiator - 60mm*

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p15007_Phobya-G-Changer-Xtreme-NOVA-1080-Radiator-60mm---Full-Copper.html/mod_alsopurchased/1


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> 
> That makes me regret buying a raystorm block lol.....
> 
> Edit: Also I dont like them parallelograms on other EK stuff. Taste is taste.


Yeah, I thought this looked more modern than the old design. I mostly like the fact that the surface is more diffuse rather than polished and clear. Matter of taste, I disliked CSQ too when I first saw it. Then I saw coolant flowing through it and I thought it was epic.

@Dmantasiu

Thanks man


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> 
> That makes me regret buying a raystorm block lol.....
> 
> Edit: Also I dont like them parallelograms on other EK stuff. Taste is taste.


I like my raystorm


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That acrylic top looks really good. I'm sold ...


Then you'll really like this one: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313632/ek-supremacy-as-it-should-be/0_30


----------



## mr one

Guys, there is a some kind of mosfet block that fits on well packadget mosfets like in lenght 56mm in width 8-9 mm max is 10mm


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Then you'll really like this one: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313632/ek-supremacy-as-it-should-be/0_30


No offense but I feel like he ruined his block. I don't care for the Circles (don't mind it either), but it's the diffuse acrylic finish that enticed me (Ice cube feel). There are a bazilion clear acrylic parts out there, but IMO this CSQ finish is a nice new touch and makes it look classy.

I feel like what he did, was take an carefully brushed aluminum plate, designed with class and sanded it down to a reflecting piece of metal resembling tin foil. To each their own, but IMO it looks worse like that


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> No offense but I feel like he ruined his block. I don't care for the Circles (don't mind it either), but it's the diffuse acrylic finish that enticed me (Ice cube feel). There are a bazilion clear acrylic parts out there, but IMO this CSQ finish is a nice new touch and makes it look classy.
> 
> I feel like what he did, was take an carefully brushed aluminum plate, designed with class and sanded it down to a reflecting piece of metal resembling tin foil. To each their own, but IMO it looks worse like that


You obviously never had a Supreme HF...


----------



## iMica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> No offense but I feel like he ruined his block. I don't care for the Circles (don't mind it either), but it's the diffuse acrylic finish that enticed me (Ice cube feel). There are a bazilion clear acrylic parts out there, but IMO this CSQ finish is a nice new touch and makes it look classy.
> 
> I feel like what he did, was take an carefully brushed aluminum plate, designed with class and sanded it down to a reflecting piece of metal resembling tin foil. To each their own, but IMO it looks worse like that


Pretty much what I was thinking lol. I dont want to see clearly through to the brass bottom lol (Dye still looks like dye in the current blocks lol). Love the frosted look on the EK blocks personally.
Only time I like a clear window is when I am looking at something good lol.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> You obviously never had a Supreme HF...


Yes I did, I sold it for this CSQ block. Never used it. I would if the CSQ didn't exist. Seems like the real problem of most of the haters is nostalgia pursuing them.


----------



## Crooksy

I quite like the CSQ too. Would you be able to see the copper underneath the plexi version when using mayhems blood red dye?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I quite like the CSQ too. Would you be able to see the copper underneath the plexi version when using mayhems blood red dye?


Would probably look something like this


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Huddler fail


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Huddler fail


No need to repeat yourself


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Would probably look something like this


I'd settle for a healthy compromise and have just the circles clear acrylic with everything else frosted.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Guys, there is a some kind of mosfet block that fits on well packadget mosfets like in lenght 56mm in width 8-9 mm max is 10mm


Check out koolance. They make a couple of blocks that use plates for a universal fit. You just need to measure the area of the stock heatsink and find a matching plate.


----------



## fakeblood

added a memory block to my loop


----------



## Canis-X

WOW!!







Awesome rig! How do you take pictures like that?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:
Originally Posted by *fakeblood* 

added a memory block to my loop


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







That is taking theme matching to the extreme. Your build actually matches your kitchen


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> added a memory block to my loop


Which fluid / dye?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> WOW!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome rig! How do you take pictures like that?


With a real camera


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> *Which fluid / dye?*
> With a real camera


Looks like either Ice Dragon Coolant, or Mayhem's Pastel Ice White.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> WOW!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome rig! How do you take pictures like that?


Using a Sony Alpha A33 and a tripod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> That is taking theme matching to the extreme. Your build actually matches your kitchen


completely intentional









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Which fluid / dye?
> With a real camera


Using Ice Dragon Nanofluid...is good stuff, but you dont wanna spill it :/


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> *Which fluid / dye?*
> With a real camera
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like either Ice Dragon Coolant, or Mayhem's Pastel Ice White.
Click to expand...

That I know







which one is my concern
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Which fluid / dye?
> With a real camera


Using Ice Dragon Nanofluid...is good stuff, but you dont wanna spill it :/[/quote]

How come?

I'm on a white/back build theme, pretty much identical to yours. I think I'll get mayhems ...


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Using a Sony Alpha A33 and a tripod
> completely intentional
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using Ice Dragon Nanofluid...is good stuff, but you dont wanna spill it :/


Yeah.

lighting > tripod > lens > body.

I can make decent photos with a crappy Olympus SP 590 on a tripod and decent lighting.


----------



## fakeblood

it stains very easily. Had to repaint my midplate after a minor leak left a white smudge all over it


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> it stains very easily. Had to repaint my midplate after a minor leak left a white smudge all over it


MAYHEMS IT IS. I'll post pics in here when I get it for comparison purposes


----------



## crazyg0od33

That just did it for me...Doesnt matter what color, I'm using a colored coolant in my next build. I'm thinking blue mayhems with the CSQ frosted, just like blademasters








I dont want to "plagiarize" your build, but DAYUM its so freaking beautiful mmmmmmmmmmhmmmmmmmmmmm


----------



## TheBlademaster01

No problem, I already stole the coolant idea from mironccr. He used Icedragon though, I just assumed he used Mayhems Pastel


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> No problem, I already stole the coolant idea from mironccr. He used Icedragon though, I just assumed he used Mayhems Pastel


lol it's a popular idea. I'm being a bit original though ... mayhems dye .... with opaque tubing!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> lol it's a popular idea. I'm being a bit original though ... mayhems dye .... with opaque tubing!


I had to look up what opaque is 

you need to post more pictures in your build log though. The black and white will be epic. Also iSub'd.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> lol it's a popular idea. I'm being a bit original though ... mayhems dye .... with opaque tubing!
> 
> 
> 
> I had to look up what opaque is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you need to post more pictures in your build log though. The black and white will be epic. Also iSub'd.
Click to expand...

I will. Camera sucks. Parts are still coming in haha. If you can find me a decent DSLR with starter lens for sub $300 (Used) on [H] or OCN, I'd be more than happy to provide some beautiful pictures.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> A new Nova 1080p ?
> 
> *Phobya G-Changer XTREME Nova 1080 Full Copper Radiator - 60mm*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p15007_Phobya-G-Changer-Xtreme-NOVA-1080-Radiator-60mm---Full-Copper.html/mod_alsopurchased/1


I have been droooooling over that since I first saw it pop up on PPCs "New Products" page! Honestly, I have never given such serious thought to having an external radiator as I have since that radiator graced my eyes with it's existence









With the way my computer area is set up, I could easily run ~4ft of tubing (4ft there, 4ft back) and have it in a closet, which means that 18 Push-Pull fans wouldn't be a problem







I figure building a custom rad stand (sort of a "lite" version of the DangerDen Rad-Box) wouldn't be too difficult with the help of a friend (who can weld), which would give me room to mount a separate reservoir and pump(s) to the rad "box". Add in a pair of Koolance QDC Fittings and you have....perfection!


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Yeah.
> 
> lighting > tripod > lens > body.
> 
> I can make decent photos with a crappy Olympus SP 590 on a tripod and decent lighting.


*Can't get multi-quote to work for some reason??*

You seem to be quite talented AND knowledgeable when it comes to photography, so I have a question for you...

My tripod got left somewhere (I honestly can't recall where), and my hands aren't steady enough lol. I am using a Nikon D3100 at the moment (just in case that matters).

What would you suggest for us "budding photographers" in terms of a make-shift or DIY tripod??


----------



## mxthunder

Also have a D3100 and always looking for better photographs of my rig.

nice rig fakeblood! Love seeing SLI 580 setups


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> nice rig fakeblood! Love seeing SLI 580 setups


Thanks


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> What would you suggest for us "budding photographers" in terms of a make-shift or DIY tripod??


In my experience, the easiest and CHEAPEST way to make a DIY "tripod" is to fill a small plastic bag 3/4 or so full of sand or anything else granular. Then set the bag on a surface at the appropriate height and press your camera into the sand until it's at the right angle for taking the picture. Then use a shutter delay.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*


I have a Mountain Mods Ascension case that I am building as well. Have a few questions and am sending you a PM to see if you can help.

Thanks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> I have a Mountain Mods Ascension case that I am building as well. Have a few questions and am sending you a PM to see if you can help.
> 
> Thanks.


This might help too









http://www.overclock.net/t/806672/official-mountainmods-club


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech sure did a nice job with the H220:
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/swiftech-h220-lcs-all-in-one-water-cooler-review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


they are a NYLON COMPOSITE?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> *Can't get multi-quote to work for some reason??*
> 
> You seem to be quite talented AND knowledgeable when it comes to photography, so I have a question for you...
> 
> My tripod got left somewhere (I honestly can't recall where), and my hands aren't steady enough lol. I am using a Nikon D3100 at the moment (just in case that matters).
> 
> What would you suggest for us "budding photographers" in terms of a make-shift or DIY tripod???


Um, I'm pretty much an amateur at photography. I have quite a lot of underlighted pics in my album . My dad is pretty good at taking photos, but he's still from the non Digital photography time, he doesn't know how to setup the camera. He keeps buying new cameras but ends up using his old Nikon 

if I can't use a tripod I just improvise on the spot. First thing you want to do, is change the setting. Place the object in a spot that is well lit by soft light (something like a white background on a monitor). The light will cast soft shadows similar to daylight which would be the best actually. Then find something like books to place the camera on and drop the ISO to a level where you're most satisfied with the shadows. Vertical rotation is going to be difficult though. You can tilt it upwards with your hands while supporting the camera with the books, but increase the light sensitivity while doing that since there is going to be motion. Just avoid rotation though, really need a tripod for that, haven't tried the sandbag method so can't comment on that but it looks like a very good idea if you have the sand that is


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The whole thing runs of a single USB power/video feed.
> 
> http://www.carcomputer.co.uk/index.php?/monitors/open-frame-monitors/of%C2%B7displaylink-7-displaylink-open-frame-monitor
> 
> There will be modding and some coding involved.


TYVM for the info-much appreciated (+1 Rep)


----------



## MCCSolutions

OK SO....... THIS IS GONNA BE EPIC!!! All im going to do is list some pictures(stock photos) of the items I have that im currently working on modding a Zalman Z11 Plus HF1(its cheap I know) with! Now its going to be very different and may not turn out as i expected, but hopefully everything goes as good as I want and a month or two from now I will post the finished build. If you wish to follow the build more closely here is the link: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/4911002



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



PLUS



Now I know this is alot of **** but just scroll threw it a few times and see what u figure out but I bet you its gonna be awesome!


----------



## Rivis2012

Hi, i'm having some trouble with my waterloop. I'm beggining to think that it is due to bad case airflow.
The CPU idles at 40/48C• and 65/72C• full load.
The room temp is arround 32C•.
Thing is that the CPU is at stock speed (3,8Ghz) and the case top and back gets really hot.
The other thing that puzzles me is that the GPUs idle at 40/43C• and doesn't go above 55C• while playing BF3 for an hour or so.
Aparently there's no air left in the loop and i was carefull to use the in/out of the blocks correctly.
The loop goes like this:
XSPC dual bay res / D5 strong pump combo---> Magicool 360 slim rad---> Raystorm CPU---> XSPC 120 rad---> Raystorm GPU---> Raystorm GPU---> res.
On the 360 rad i'm using Scythe Slip Stream fans hooked to a fan controller (works correctly). I allready re installed the CPU block being careful not to aply too much or too little thermal paste.
What do you think it may be happening? Any help would be really apreciated.
My full specs are bellow (correct except for the cooling).
Thank you!


----------



## SaNiiX

Soo, i'm just a lurker here since watercooling kits with pumps etc does not exist in norway.. At all... Noone sells them, but i got myself one of the Corsair H60 coolers, but the noise is so extreme... It keeps buzzing and it won't cool so well, i currently have the ARCTIC MX-2 cooling paste and a AMD FX-8350 Processor stock 4GHz and it shows off that i go around 35-40 degrees idle and a stunning 80 degrees 100% load after 1 hour.. Is there something wrong with my cooler or is that normal?

Edit: Room temprature is usualy around 20-25+ celcius


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rivis2012*
> 
> Hi, i'm having some trouble with my waterloop. I'm beggining to think that it is due to bad case airflow.
> The CPU idles at 40/48C• and 65/72C• full load.
> The room temp is arround 32C•.
> Thing is that the CPU is at stock speed (3,8Ghz) and the case top and back gets really hot.
> The other thing that puzzles me is that the GPUs idle at 40/43C• and doesn't go above 55C• while playing BF3 for an hour or so.
> Aparently there's no air left in the loop and i was carefull to use the in/out of the blocks correctly.
> The loop goes like this:
> XSPC dual bay res / D5 strong pump combo---> Magicool 360 slim rad---> Raystorm CPU---> XSPC 120 rad---> Raystorm GPU---> Raystorm GPU---> res.
> On the 360 rad i'm using Scythe Slip Stream fans hooked to a fan controller (works correctly). I allready re installed the CPU block being careful not to aply too much or too little thermal paste.
> What do you think it may be happening? Any help would be really apreciated.
> My full specs are bellow (correct except for the cooling).
> Thank you!


So you're only using a 360mm slim rad and a 120mm for i7 3820 + 2x HD7950? I don't think that's enough, those temperatures seem reasonable to me, when gaming the GPU's heat up the water a lot, meaning the CPU will get a lot hotter while gaming if GPU's are on same loop than just running a CPU stress test, since water is a lot cooler when the GPU's are idling. Plus we're talking about Battlefield 3 multiplayer, which is VERY intensive in both GPU's and the CPU. Might want to get another 240mm or 360mm rad.









Also having 32ºC ambient temperatures doesn't help at all, where do you live? Those are the room temperatures I get in July-August here in Spain.

TL;DR: Get more rads and some Scythe AP-15 (Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm).


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaNiiX*
> 
> Soo, i'm just a lurker here since watercooling kits with pumps etc does not exist in norway.. At all... Noone sells them, but i got myself one of the Corsair H60 coolers, but the noise is so extreme... It keeps buzzing and it won't cool so well, i currently have the ARCTIC MX-2 cooling paste and a AMD FX-8350 Processor stock 4GHz and it shows off that i go around 35-40 degrees idle and a stunning 80 degrees 100% load after 1 hour.. Is there something wrong with my cooler or is that normal?
> 
> Edit: Room temprature is usualy around 20-25+ celcius


I know a Norwegian guy who has multiple epic WC setups. It sounds like the pump in your H60 is broken. Need to RMA and or get a custom WC set.


----------



## SaNiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I know a Norwegian guy who has multiple epic WC setups.


Yeah i've seen some norwegians here with sweet WC sets but Most of the retailers in norway suddenly stopped selling WC kits for some reason..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> It sounds like the pump in your H60 is broken. Need to RMA and or get a custom WC set.


RMA? like send it back? I've had it for some time now but i'll check it out! Thanks


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaNiiX*
> 
> Yeah i've seen some norwegians here with sweet WC sets but Most of the retailers in norway suddenly stopped selling WC kits for some reason..
> RMA? like send it back? I've had it for some time now but i'll check it out! Thanks


I had a dead H2O Kuhler and it had very bad temps and made weird buzzing like noise when still "working". It got my 2600K @4.7 (1.275V) to 81*C under load. I ran the stock cooler on the CPU for a while and it even turned out to be a small upgrade over the Kuhler -- 79*C under load. I can keep my 2600K @5.2GHz (1.525V) below 72 *C with my custom loop though









And yes RMA is sending back to either Corsair or the e-tailer


----------



## B NEGATIVE

RSurvivo2 goes R-ATX....


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SaNiiX*
> 
> Yeah i've seen some norwegians here with sweet WC sets but Most of the retailers in norway suddenly stopped selling WC kits for some reason..
> RMA? like send it back? I've had it for some time now but i'll check it out! Thanks


Check http://www.aquatuning.no/, they are based in Germany but will ship to anywhere in Europe (There's .de, .es, .no... etc), you can find anything you'll need for a custom water cooling there.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> RSurvivo2 goes R-ATX....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Give me one of those rads.


----------



## SaNiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Check http://www.aquatuning.no/, they are based in Germany but will ship to anywhere in Europe (There's .de, .es, .no... etc), you can find anything you'll need for a custom water cooling there.


Thanks man, now i'm off to buy water cooling!!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> RSurvivo2 goes R-ATX....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How many build are you working one right now? I need links to your logs. Your builds always come out looking flawless


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> RSurvivo2 goes R-ATX....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many build are you working one right now? I need links to your logs. Your builds always come out looking flawless
Click to expand...

Im working on 2 right now,Arctic Water and RSurvivor.

If you look in my sig,there are links to them,just click on the name of the rig you want to see.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im working on 2 right now,Arctic Water and RSurvivor.
> 
> If you look in my sig,there are links to them,just click on the name of the rig you want to see.


Ah the sig. I didn't realize all the build logs were on one line. Which build is getting that touch screen?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The SR-2
Still getting the bits together on that one.


----------



## morencyam

Sounds like the SR-2 is the never ending build lol It's such a beautiful build though. And that case


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey *B NEGATIVE*, when are you going to update your Arctic Water build?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Sounds like the SR-2 is the never ending build lol It's such a beautiful build though. And that case


I think most peoples builds on here are never ending. I change something out every month.. may it be external amp, headset, mouse, cooling comps.


----------



## Rivis2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> So you're only using a 360mm slim rad and a 120mm for i7 3820 + 2x HD7950? I don't think that's enough, those temperatures seem reasonable to me, when gaming the GPU's heat up the water a lot, meaning the CPU will get a lot hotter while gaming if GPU's are on same loop than just running a CPU stress test, since water is a lot cooler when the GPU's are idling. Plus we're talking about Battlefield 3 multiplayer, which is VERY intensive in both GPU's and the CPU. Might want to get another 240mm or 360mm rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also having 32ºC ambient temperatures doesn't help at all, where do you live? Those are the room temperatures I get in July-August here in Spain.
> 
> TL;DR: Get more rads and some Scythe AP-15 (Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm).


First of all thanks for your answer. I guess thats the way its gonna be then, my case won't fit another rad.
I Live in Buenos Aires, Argentina and its plain summer here, really hot as usual.
Thanks again !


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I think most peoples builds on here are never ending. I change something out every month.. may it be external amp, headset, mouse, cooling comps.


Oh i completely agree. I've preaty much run out of things to do on my Obsidian, so now I'm building a case from scratch. Lack of funds for huge uprgades doesn't really help either lol


----------



## Kurio

Hello my dear mates!

I am looking for the build logg to this.

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1154501/width/350/height/700/flags/LL

Anyone who knows the build and list?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey *B NEGATIVE*, when are you going to update your Arctic Water build?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Hopefully more tomorrow,got the templates cut out and the panels ready,just need the sheet metal bender to arrive,due tomorrow!


----------



## Canis-X

What sheet metal bender did you get and from where?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> What sheet metal bender did you get and from where?




Clarke CMF24
Available everywhere.

In other news,its was never going to be long before this happened.....



Look familiar?


----------



## kcuestag

Just ordered an XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic reservoir for my D5 pump, I am sure *B NEGATIVE* will enjoy it when I remove the zip ties from current reservoir.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In other news,its was never going to be long before this happened.....
> 
> 
> 
> Look familiar?


My guess (From 5 days back







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Have seen several people using the Noiseblocker *NB-eLoop* , but now is Phobya also making a *NB-eLoop*
> 
> Phobya *NB-eLoop* 1600rpm
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p15211_Phobya-NB-eLoop-1600rpm---Bionic-Fan---120x120x25mm--.html
> 
> Noiseblocker *NB-eLoop*
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p14173_Noiseblocker-NB-eLoop-B12-3-Bionic-fan-1900rpm---120x120x25mm--.html


Is still waiting on Noiseblocker eLoop in a 140mm version ...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You just put links so i didnt bother looking


----------



## dmanstasiu

What's so great about it :?


----------



## ClaggyPants

Finally got my loop sorted. The rig is nearly finished. I just have power cables to make up as I don't like the seasonic flat cables. MDPC crimper and other goodies still awaiting import. Once they're hear I can start tiding this up.

Think I need a bit more practice with the photography though.


----------



## morencyam

I like how Phobya even left "NB" in the name. Not giving out any hints there as to where they got that design from


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I think most peoples builds on here are never ending. I change something out every month.. may it be external amp, headset, mouse, cooling comps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rivis2012*
> 
> First of all thanks for your answer. I guess thats the way its gonna be then, my case won't fit another rad.
> I Live in Buenos Aires, Argentina and its plain summer here, really hot as usual.
> Thanks again !


Given the case you have, you seem to have PLENTY of room for more radiator, yes? I would just go with the biggest you can fit, or, if you want to be a true baller (







), get a SuperNOVA 1260 or Phobya G-Changer 1080









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In other news,its was never going to be long before this happened.....
> 
> 
> 
> Look familiar?


I noticed that earlier, and I've been wondering... Who makes the "regular" Phobya fans?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Just ordered an XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic reservoir for my D5 pump, I am sure *B NEGATIVE* will enjoy it when I remove the zip ties from current reservoir.


Excellent! Your build is getting better by the day!!!







:thumb:


----------



## Canis-X

Ordered some more parts for my CPU/motherboard loop. I am hopeful that this will allow for easier transitions between my CPU waterblock and my phase change when I want to bench. Also, this will be my first experience with Koolance's quick disconnects, I really hope that work well for me.









1x
  

2x


----------



## wermad

Well, since we're all sharing our new acquisitions, here's mine


----------



## Canis-X

She's Aye-BUTE!!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Excellent! Your build is getting better by the day!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:


Thanks, I wish I could have afforded some more AP-15 fans in same order for the bottom rad but that will have to wait.









Also changing the bottom Swiftec MCR220 for a brand new HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240 that a clan mate gave me, better quality rad.


----------



## phillyd

Woah.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Woah.


My SM8 fully plumbed is about 75lbs... this thing is going to need stronger casters I think those casters JIM has on that is rated at 100lbs?


----------



## dmanstasiu

I'm sure he can afford to put some new casters for a build like that


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I'm sure he can afford to put some new casters for a build like that


could probably invest in some compact car wheels if he wanted to.


----------



## Newbold3d

Thanks for getting back to me buddy! Again, great looking rig!


----------



## nismoskyline

nothing too special but one of builds and most i can afford as a high school student







my main build isn't finished, getting my second gtx 295 for quad sli







tell me what you think though, the builds here are amazing, any feedback would be awesome.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> 
> 
> nothing too special but one of builds and most i can afford as a high school student
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my main build isn't finished, getting my second gtx 295 for quad sli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tell me what you think though, the builds here are amazing, any feedback would be awesome.


Looks good.

Personally, I think the 3/4" tubing is very large for that small case I would have gone with 7/16 or 5/8 probably. Actually You could probably get away with something even smaller then that.

Cable management looks good. Everything is nice and tucked away.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> Personally, I think the 3/4" tubing is very large for that small case I would have gone with 7/16 or 5/8 probably. Actually You could probably get away with something even smaller then that.
> 
> Cable management looks good. Everything is nice and tucked away.


I use 3/4" OD in my prodigy. Come at me bro


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> 
> 
> nothing too special but one of builds and most i can afford as a high school student
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my main build isn't finished, getting my second gtx 295 for quad sli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tell me what you think though, the builds here are amazing, any feedback would be awesome.


Welcome to the club.

A nice tidy loop,could do with shortening the CPU to Rad tube but all in all a nice straightforward loop


----------



## nismoskyline

Thanks for the feedback! coming from you Bneg means a lot, i have seen your builds and they are amazing, and next time i order liquid cooling stuff i'll pick up a 45 degree fitting to shorten the line


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I use 3/4" OD in my prodigy. Come at me bro


LOL?


----------



## davwman

Cramped!


----------



## NomNomNom

Is it normal that my pump vibrats a lot more when its undervolted?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> 
> 
> nothing too special but one of builds and most i can afford as a high school student
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my main build isn't finished, getting my second gtx 295 for quad sli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tell me what you think though, the builds here are amazing, any feedback would be awesome.


+1 on what B Neg said about shortening up on the rad to CPU tube, and if you add a 90 on the underside of the GPU, it would shorten up on that tube as well as give it a cleaner look.

Damn fine rig by the way,

The best we had when I was in High School was the slide rule . . .









Darlene


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Is it normal that my pump vibrats a lot more when its undervolted?


How much are you under-volting it..?

If it's vibrating more, then it probably doesn't have enough power to move the water, and it's struggling, hence the vibration.

Just a guess, but I probably wouldn't undervolt the pump too much, you might burn it out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback! coming from you Bneg means a lot, i have seen your builds and they are amazing, and next time i order liquid cooling stuff i'll pick up a 45 degree fitting to shorten the line


Grab a 90 too for the return feed from the GPU,will tidy it up nicely.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> How much are you under-volting it..?
> 
> If it's vibrating more, then it probably doesn't have enough power to move the water, and it's struggling, hence the vibration.
> 
> Just a guess, but I probably wouldn't undervolt the pump too much, you might burn it out.


Its controlled by my fan controller atm, even slowing it 200-300 rpm ish makes it vibrate much more.


----------



## Qu1ckset

how do i break down this pink dye!!!!! ugh im so stupid for adding it, its stained my tubes which i already knew was going to happen but dont really mind about that because im planning on changing my tubing over to uv red, but ive drained 80% if my look at a time with the drain line(really hard to get it all out with out tearing apart my loop) and then refilled with distilled water, flushed, refilled with distilled water and then flushed and the water still looks as dark and UV as when i started and i missing something?


----------



## wermad

Heat up some distilled in the microwave. Mix that with some more distilled and run your loop. i heat up two cups, two minutes in the wave, and then just add some more room temp distilled so I don't starve the pump. run your loop for a while and then drain and see if the hot distilled will remove some of the staining/residue. I jump start my psu for this process. My suggestion if you're looking for a complete clean up: break down your loop. Its a pita but you can flush each component individually for a good starting point for your next setup.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

About to pull the trigger on a Gigabyte reference 7970 with an EK CSQ Nickel/Plexi block and acetal CSQ backplate and Nickel/Plexi CSQ Supremacy for $400 shipped. Not a fan of the CSQ designs but the deals sounds too nice to pass up, what do you guys think?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> About to pull the trigger on a Gigabyte reference 7970 with an EK CSQ Nickel/Plexi block and acetal CSQ backplate and Nickel/Plexi CSQ Supremacy for $400 shipped. Not a fan of the CSQ designs but the deals sounds too nice to pass up, what do you guys think?


I saw that on reddit, it's a great deal!


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I saw that on reddit, it's a great deal!


Saw it on the bay. Didn't know they have classifieds on Reddit. Might have to check that site out now.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I saw that on reddit, it's a great deal!
> 
> 
> 
> Saw it on the bay. Didn't know they have classifieds on Reddit. Might have to check that site out now.
Click to expand...

r/hardwareswap


----------



## xNiNELiVES

I'd like to thank everyone from the forums for helping me on my first watercooling build.
Quick Specs:
Koolance CPU-380i on a 3930k
EVGA GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper (Comes with waterblock)
Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing (UV Blue)
Primochill CRT 240mm Reservoir (UV Blue)
Koolance PMP-500
Running distilled water and pt nuke (aka dead water).


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I'd like to thank everyone from the forums for helping me on my first watercooling build.
> Quick Specs:
> Koolance CPU-380i on a 3930k
> EVGA GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper (Comes with waterblock)
> Primochill Adanced LRT Tubing
> Primochill CRT 240mm Reservoir
> Koolance PMP-500


thats a very clean and tidy build!
what coolant are you using? the reservoir really shine in the build


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> thats a very clean and tidy build!
> what coolant are you using? the reservoir really shine in the build


The reservoir is actually UV so I don't have to use any dyes. Just using distilled water and two drops of PT Nuke.


----------



## crazyg0od33

so what color are the tubes? They look UV as well?
Beautiful build BTW


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I'd like to thank everyone from the forums for helping me on my first watercooling build.
> Quick Specs:
> Koolance CPU-380i on a 3930k
> EVGA GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper (Comes with waterblock)
> Primochill Adanced LRT Tubing
> Primochill CRT 240mm Reservoir
> Koolance PMP-500
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip


Very nice


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> so what color are the tubes? They look UV as well?
> Beautiful build BTW


Yeah primp chill uv tubing I listed it all there on the post. Thanks btw








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice


Thank you also







I really do appreciate it.


----------



## TheOx

A little something arrived today...











Small care package contents.









I call it the 'pump station'. second pump is in current system along with other fittings.



Pump 1 itself.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> 
> 
> nothing too special but one of builds and most i can afford as a high school student
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my main build isn't finished, getting my second gtx 295 for quad sli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tell me what you think though, the builds here are amazing, any feedback would be awesome.


I think using the top outlet for the gpu block would make it tidier. And like what Bneg and Darlene told you, shorten some of the tubings and using some angled rotaries would make it looks a lot better.









BTW it looks like you are using the XSPC compression fittings? In my experience, EK-PSC rotaries pair well with them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I'd like to thank everyone from the forums for helping me on my first watercooling build.
> Quick Specs:
> Koolance CPU-380i on a 3930k
> EVGA GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper (Comes with waterblock)
> Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing (UV Blue)
> Primochill CRT 240mm Reservoir (UV Blue)
> Koolance PMP-500
> Running distilled water and pt nuke (aka dead water).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks real good.


----------



## wermad

No crop circles











http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc7990-acetal-nickel-incl-backplate.html

Looks good


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No crop circles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc7990-acetal-nickel-incl-backplate.html
> 
> Looks good


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I'd like to thank everyone from the forums for helping me on my first watercooling build.
> Quick Specs:
> Koolance CPU-380i on a 3930k
> EVGA GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper (Comes with waterblock)
> Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing (UV Blue)
> Primochill CRT 240mm Reservoir (UV Blue)
> Koolance PMP-500
> Running distilled water and pt nuke (aka dead water).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How do you find the pmp-500?

I personally think it is very noisy


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No crop circles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc7990-acetal-nickel-incl-backplate.html
> 
> Looks good


Thats a shame I just bought new blocks with the circles. However I don't like the circles. I still think aquacool has the best gpu blocks out right now.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> How do you find the pmp-500?
> 
> I personally think it is very noisy


It is very noisy, but I have a fan controller that turns it down quite a bit. Still can hear it though. The upside though is that it has up to 26 ft of head pressure and 4.4 gpm (tested from martin210 @ martinsliquidlab.org)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> I think using the top outlet for the gpu block would make it tidier. And like what Bneg and Darlene told you, shorten some of the tubings and using some angled rotaries would make it looks a lot better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW it looks like you are using the XSPC compression fittings? In my experience, EK-PSC rotaries pair well with them.
> Looks real good.


Thanks man


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Thats a shame I just bought new blocks with the circles. However I don't like the circles. I still think aquacool has the best gpu blocks out right now.


I applaud ek for designing blocks for non-mainstream cards (ie Lightnings, DCIIs, 7970x2s, etc.).

Though, this could just be the prototype the the actual production one will have the CSQ design on their. If not, then there's a chance the next wave of gen blocks (ie GTX 780/770, HD8970, 8950, etc) may *not* have the circles.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sheet metal bender has arrived!.

Time to get the rad mounts done on Arctic Water!


----------



## wermad

Awesome and mad metal skills


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sheet metal bender has arrived!.
> 
> Time to get the rad mounts done on Arctic Water!






Nice bending.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sheet metal bender has arrived!.
> 
> Time to get the rad mounts done on Arctic Water!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Where's the build log for this?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sheet metal bender has arrived!.
> 
> Time to get the rad mounts done on Arctic Water!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where's the build log for this?
Click to expand...

In my sig under Arctic Water.


----------



## wermad

BP really making a change:
Quote:


>


Me likes! Any one know how they fair? They've usually trailed the pack in terms of performance. This design looks more conventional (very reminiscent of the old EK style).


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> BP really making a change:
> Me likes! Any one know how they fair? They've usually trailed the pack in terms of performance. This design looks more conventional (very reminiscent of the old EK style).


Looks good I don't like the back plate though I def. like the added LED's.


----------



## morencyam

Looks like BP has heard our cries for the old style EK block design back. Nice work BP









I know they've usually been toward the bottom of the list in performance, but what's the average difference between them and the top of the list?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Looks like BP has heard our cries for the old style EK block design back. Nice work BP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know they've usually been toward the bottom of the list in performance, but what's the average difference between them and the top of the list?


I really like the copper blocks the Nic. doesn't do it for me plus had one chip inside the loop once and was done with it after that.


----------



## wermad

Price hasn't changed though









BP should have priced this ~$125 to make it more competitive. But at ~$160....it wouldn't be my first choice if I had to buy a new block


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Price hasn't changed though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BP should have priced this ~$125 to make it more competitive. But at ~$160....it wouldn't be my first choice if I had to buy a new block


For gpu blocks im really wishing I went with the aqua cool ones. They look the best but I don't want to break everything down and sell it for new blocks lol.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I really like the copper blocks the Nic. doesn't do it for me plus had one chip inside the loop once and was done with it after that.


I prefer copper over nickle as well. I'm talking more along the lines of the old shape and lack of crop circles


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> For gpu blocks im really wishing I went with the aqua cool ones. They look the best but I don't want to break everything down and sell it for new blocks lol.


Alphacool or Aquacomputer?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I prefer copper over nickle as well. I'm talking more along the lines of the old shape and lack of crop circles


Honestly, after doing a few builds, I look for ease of installation and less weight. Running four heavy DD blocks (copper bottom and top nickel plated) puts a lot of strain on the gpu's pcb and the mb too.

If I don't change my gpu(s), I'm thinking of swapping my blocks for something lighter (like EK, Alpha, or HK).


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Alphacool or Aquacomputer?
> Honestly, after doing a few builds, I look for ease of installation and less weight. Running four heavy DD blocks (copper bottom and top nickel plated) puts a lot of strain on the gpu's pcb and the mb too.
> 
> If I don't change my gpu(s), I'm thinking of swapping my blocks for something lighter (like EK, Alpha, or HK).


Lol Aqua computer... I thought HK and Aqua computer are the same company? lol @ Aqua cool I guess I just combined the two without knowing it. Wow Im glad it's friday


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Alphacool or Aquacomputer?
> Honestly, after doing a few builds, I look for ease of installation and less weight. Running four heavy DD blocks (copper bottom and top nickel plated) puts a lot of strain on the gpu's pcb and the mb too.
> 
> If I don't change my gpu(s), I'm thinking of swapping my blocks for something lighter (like EK, Alpha, or HK).
> 
> 
> 
> Lol Aqua computer... I thought HK and Aqua computer are the same company? lol @ Aqua cool I guess I just combined the two without knowing it. Wow Im glad it's friday
Click to expand...

AMEN, BROTHA. FRIDAY HAS COME. Which means I can *finally* start my threesome with my prodigy and beloved dremel


----------



## lowfat

Well it looks like Bitspower will be the GPU blocks I'll be buying from now on. The backplate though looks cheap.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Lol Aqua computer... I thought HK and Aqua computer are the same company? lol @ Aqua cool I guess I just combined the two without knowing it. Wow Im glad it's friday


TGIF!!!!

Well, looks I'm possibly gonna be looking for GTX 680 blocks soon









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Well it looks like Bitspower will be the GPU blocks I'll be buying from now on. The backplate though looks cheap.


I've successfully adapted EK backplates on different blocks and with a bit of modding EVGA backplates too. Backplates aren't overly complex so you can probably make most fit on different make blocks.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> TGIF!!!!
> 
> Well, looks I'm possibly gonna be looking for GTX 680 blocks soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've successfully adapted EK backplates on different blocks and with a bit of modding EVGA backplates too. Backplates aren't overly complex so you can probably make most fit on different make blocks.


for the EVGA backplate on the EK block I just got longer screws and it works fine.


----------



## Bezna

^^ looks sweet!


----------



## RKTGX95

Does anyone has any suggestions for a loop with a Red Alert 2 (game) theme? (i'm, still, clueless)


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Well it looks like Bitspower will be the GPU blocks I'll be buying from now on. The backplate though looks cheap.


get a custom backplate from DWood and use whatever block you want, then it'll REALLY be awesome and personal


----------



## mandrix




----------



## WaitWhat

Just ordered all my stuff to start my water cooling on Monday









By the way, I've ordered some mayhems aurora due...do I need to add like a coil in it or does the dye/mix mean its not needed?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> A little something arrived today...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump 1 itself.


I'd love to see pictures of your new res filled with that coolant. Please post some when you're done. Thanks.


----------



## Crooksy

Bought some Mayhems X1 Blood red and just happened to do some searching on tubing and it looks like nearly everyone is saying to stay away from all dyes as they clog up the blocks


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Bought some Mayhems X1 Blood red and just happened to do some searching on tubing and it looks like nearly everyone is saying to stay away from all dyes as they clog up the blocks


In my experience, mayhems have been the exception to this rule. Yes, most people suggest to use opaque coloured tubing and distilled, but mayhems seems to be rather exceptional in this domain. Look up reviews of Mayhems ... I don't recall seeing any clogged blocks


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Bought some Mayhems X1 Blood red and just happened to do some searching on tubing and it looks like nearly everyone is saying to stay away from all dyes as they clog up the blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, mayhems have been the exception to this rule. Yes, most people suggest to use opaque coloured tubing and distilled, but mayhems seems to be rather exceptional in this domain. Look up reviews of Mayhems ... I don't recall seeing any clogged blocks
Click to expand...

Thank god for that.

I ordered a small bit of Masterkleer dark red to see what it was like... However, I can easily see through it.

I did buy the 1/2 and 5/8 version though (I will be using 1/2 and 3/4). Will the bigger tubing look different or is all of Masterkleers stuff translucent?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Do you post pics of anything other than Phobya/Alphacool? Cos im sure not keen on adverts all the time.

Especially as these have already been seen in this thread.


----------



## dmanstasiu

That's hot


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> In my experience, mayhems have been the exception to this rule. Yes, most people suggest to use opaque coloured tubing and distilled, but mayhems seems to be rather exceptional in this domain. Look up reviews of Mayhems ... I don't recall seeing any clogged blocks


I saw a review of mayhems dye that corroded a block. Trust me I saw it with pictures. It wasn't here on over clock.net it was from here: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50189


----------



## Clockwerk

I dunno how much I buy that coming from that website. I am fairly sure that website and mayhem have a bit of a history...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> In my experience, mayhems have been the exception to this rule. Yes, most people suggest to use opaque coloured tubing and distilled, but mayhems seems to be rather exceptional in this domain. Look up reviews of Mayhems ... I don't recall seeing any clogged blocks
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a review of mayhems dye that corroded a block. Trust me I saw it with pictures. It wasn't here on over clock.net it was from here: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50189
Click to expand...

It didnt corrode it at all,that was plasticizer.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that all one loop with three pumps?
Edit: and two flow meters?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Well I stand corrected. That being said, could you provide a few other cases like this?

I'm not saying Mayhems is 'omg l33t c00l1ng, b3st 3v3r"... I just think that a few other systems are necessary before coming to such a conclusion. It's possible that the metals in there reacted with it or something, who knows. I'm not arguing your point, I'm just curious to see how many other people had such a problem


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I saw a review of mayhems dye that corroded a block. Trust me I saw it with pictures. It wasn't here on over clock.net it was from here: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50189


That is, without doubt, a plasticizer issue.

I have browsed that site from time to time, and there is certainly some very good information on there (thank you Bundy!), but I have also found that the members seem a bit more prone to "jump to conclusions blaming anyone but themselves".... Maybe it's just me, but that was the vibe I got.
What is that site, anyway?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I saw a review of mayhems dye that corroded a block. Trust me I saw it with pictures. It wasn't here on over clock.net it was from here: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50189
> 
> 
> 
> That is, without doubt, a plasticizer issue.
> 
> I have browsed that site from time to time, and there is certainly some very good information on there (thank you Bundy!), but I have also found that the members seem a bit more prone to "jump to conclusions blaming anyone but themselves".... Maybe it's just me, but that was the vibe I got.
> What is that site, anyway?
Click to expand...

RRTech.

Good site with some funny guys...also some real on it guys that know what they are talking about,they dont just slate stuff,they get things lab tested to verify statements
They got a EK lab tested about the nickel fail,very interesting results indeed.


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I know they [BP] have usually been toward the bottom of the list in performance, but what's the average difference between them and the top of the list?


That was ages ago. Pretty sure the performance difference is negligible now.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I saw a review of mayhems dye that corroded a block. Trust me I saw it with pictures. It wasn't here on over clock.net it was from here: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50189
> 
> 
> 
> That is, without doubt, a plasticizer issue.
> 
> I have browsed that site from time to time, and there is certainly some very good information on there (thank you Bundy!), but I have also found that the members seem a bit more prone to "jump to conclusions blaming anyone but themselves".... Maybe it's just me, but that was the vibe I got.
> What is that site, anyway?
Click to expand...

I don't know but it isn't a site I would consider reliable. Despite the pictures, the attitude and behaviour on that site strips any credibility from their claims. I'm basing this opinion on RR's posts, but he doesn't seem to be the only one cussing and freaking out. I would be happy to look at any other experiences on that site though - always open-minded.

Like I said though, I'd be more than happy to find other sources / experiences from different people and different sites


----------



## Crooksy

The thing I have noticed about water cooling so far after doing all this research for my first loop is that there are a lot of grey areas, a lot of preference.


----------



## szeged

heres my first loop, not cooling the gpu atm because i plan on upgrading soon so i didnt want to waste $100 on a block for a gpu im going to replace lol



any suggestions/criticism?


----------



## Crooksy

Some better pictures please!

Looks good though, what tubing are you using?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Some better pictures please!
> 
> Looks good though, what tubing are you using?


sorry about the picture quality, only have my phone to use atm :x

1/2 x 3/4 xspc clear/uv blue tubing, when i upgrade i think ill use some 1/2x3/4 tygon, ive heard its pretty good.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Some better pictures please!
> 
> Looks good though, what tubing are you using?
> 
> 
> 
> sorry about the picture quality, only have my phone to use atm :x
> 
> 1/2 x 3/4 xspc clear/uv blue tubing, when i upgrade i think ill use some 1/2x3/4 tygon, ive heard its pretty good.
Click to expand...

Eugh, don't even talk to me about tubing. I'm having a nightmare on deciding what to go with.

Clouding, plasticizer, coloured, clear, dyes. So much to consider!


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Some better pictures please!
> 
> Looks good though, what tubing are you using?
> 
> 
> 
> sorry about the picture quality, only have my phone to use atm :x
> 
> 1/2 x 3/4 xspc clear/uv blue tubing, when i upgrade i think ill use some 1/2x3/4 tygon, ive heard its pretty good.
Click to expand...

Eugh, don't even talk to me about tubing. I'm having a nightmare on deciding what to go with.

Clouding, plasticizer, coloured, clear, dyes. So much to consider!


----------



## szeged

maybe try some acrylic tube bending with a heat gun? ive seen some really neat build turn outs with it.

or use lots of crystal link + BP fittings







i wish i had more money atm to do a more complicated loop but alas, i must upgrade my cpu/mobo/gpu first.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Eugh, don't even talk to me about tubing. I'm having a nightmare on deciding what to go with.
> 
> Clouding, plasticizer, coloured, clear, dyes. So much to consider!


After trying clear tubing, I can pretty much say the best option is to go for coloured tubing (I went red for my new case) and forget about plasticizer or clouding as you won't notice these on coloured tubing and it won't affect your blocks or performance at all unless you buy some very cheap tubing that falls apart.









In Europe you can't get the Primochill Advanced LRT yet, so I'd suggest going for Mastekleer PVC red tubing and forget about plasticizer/clouding, you won't notice it.


----------



## wermad

My Duralene is holding ok but there is a bit of discoloration. I would have to agree with KC and go back my original stand of just going with colored tube.


----------



## MCCSolutions

My modded Zalman Z11 Plus HF1 when finished should look like this, but its alot of stuff in a mid-atx case so im up for any suggestions..........
Also I have to fit two Corsair modules(floppy drive size) and a 2tb HDD somewhere but I dont know where yet......


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Hi all

Took the plunge into custom watercooling about a week ago







very pleased with the cooling ability. Able to take my Xeon W3680 up to 4.60GHz with no effort and very respectable temps.

Using an all EK Kit for my first attempt as it came with a guide and the CPU block, rad and pump are high performing parts. Ended up barely looking at the guide lol... Who reads instructions anyway.

EK H30 HFX 240 parts:
EK Supreme HF CPU Block
EK CoolStream RAD XTX 240
EK DCP 4.0 pump
EK MultiOption RES X3
EK PSC Fittings
EK EKoolant Concentrate + Distilled Water

I was lucky enough to have my own distiller which produces 0 ppm (parts per million), which saved me trouble trying to find somewhere that sold it.









The tubes light up quite bright which the camera does not show very well.

I've had the HAF932 for a few years now and never thought I would utilize the lashings of space above the motherboard... so glad I didn't get rid now.







What you guys think... any thoughts/comments?


----------



## PinzaC55

Bacardi has poor cooling properties. Jack Daniels will do the job better.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Bacardi has poor cooling properties. Jack Daniels will do the job better.


lol the funny thing is I actually considered using it but after reading up on it despite its better than cooliant for cooling it evaperates. But yea you have to admit it goes well with a all red and black system!!!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Just ordered all my stuff to start my water cooling on Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I've ordered some mayhems aurora due...do I need to add like a coil in it or does the dye/mix mean its not needed?


This is OT, but the answer is no-Aurora/Pastels and the X1 coolants do not need a SKC, they already have anti corrosion/biocide qualities within them- go over to Mayhems a look see









And btw, you do know that the Aurora range of coolants are for show rigs and are not recommended for everyday use over long time spans









http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It didnt corrode it at all,that was plasticizer.


*THIS^^*


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Is that all one loop with three pumps?
> Edit: and two flow meters?


Yes. I had the D5 sitting here and some empty space so I put it in. Normally the MCP35x2 does all the work.

I'll be swapping in my other UD5H with the delidded 3770K when I get time. Meanwhile it's sitting in my venerable "old" Switch 810 seen here:


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Eugh, don't even talk to me about tubing. I'm having a nightmare on deciding what to go with.
> 
> Clouding, plasticizer, coloured, clear, dyes. So much to consider!
> 
> 
> 
> After trying clear tubing, I can pretty much say the best option is to go for coloured tubing (I went red for my new case) and forget about plasticizer or clouding as you won't notice these on coloured tubing and it won't affect your blocks or performance at all unless you buy some very cheap tubing that falls apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Europe you can't get the Primochill Advanced LRT yet, so I'd suggest going for Mastekleer PVC red tubing and forget about plasticizer/clouding, you won't notice it.
Click to expand...

I bought some MasterKleer 1/2 - 5/8 in dark red just to see what it looked like. I was expecting it to be opaque but I could easily see through it. I would prefer a tubing that wasn't so translucent. Although maybe it will look slightly different with 1/2 - 3/4 and blood red mayhems flowing through it?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> lol the funny thing is I actually considered using it but after reading up on it despite its better than cooliant for cooling it evaperates. But yea you have to admit it goes well with a all red and black system!!!


Could cause you problems if the cops see it and think it is a Still









Incidentally, wouldn't this look great as a Reservoir? Have to clean the Mercury out first though.









http://www.redorbit.com/media/uploads/2004/10/45_bf7dfca550c23c4d52c592a0411d2543.jpg


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Could cause you problems if the cops see it and think it is a Still


lol thats the desired affect lol


----------



## dumbazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flamin9_t00l*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> Took the plunge into custom watercooling about a week ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very pleased with the cooling ability. Able to take my Xeon W3680 up to 4.60GHz with no effort and very respectable temps.
> Using an all EK Kit for my first attempt as it came with a guide and the CPU block, rad and pump are high performing parts. Ended up barely looking at the guide lol... Who reads instructions anyway.
> 
> EK H30 HFX 240 parts:
> EK Supreme HF CPU Block
> EK CoolStream RAD XTX 240
> EK DCP 4.0 pump
> EK MultiOption RES X3
> EK PSC Fittings
> EK EKoolant Concentrate + Distilled Water
> 
> I was lucky enough to have my own distiller which produces 0 ppm (parts per million), which saved me trouble trying to find somewhere that sold it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tubes light up quite bright which the camera does not show very well.
> 
> I've had the HAF932 for a few years now and never thought I would utilize the lashings of space above the motherboard... so glad I didn't get rid now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you guys think... any thoughts/comments?


I like it.Neet. VRMs and Northbridge if your board is warming up.


----------



## morencyam

I have a Sabertooth x58 as well and the NB does seem to get pretty toasty. There was never a block made specifically for this board, but I think a few of the Koolance universal blocks fit. Never tried myself as i really don't like the look of them too much


----------



## Chiraq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I have 2 x those 120mm eLoops but as Noiseblocker white/black, best 25mm noise/performance radiator fans I've ever had.


----------



## audioholic

How are the NB fans? I have a XSPC RS and EX and need fans for both. They will be on a controller but am hoping I can have them be really quiet.
thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flamin9_t00l*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> Took the plunge into custom watercooling about a week ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very pleased with the cooling ability. Able to take my Xeon W3680 up to 4.60GHz with no effort and very respectable temps.
> 
> Using an all EK Kit for my first attempt as it came with a guide and the CPU block, rad and pump are high performing parts. Ended up barely looking at the guide lol... Who reads instructions anyway.
> 
> EK H30 HFX 240 parts:
> EK Supreme HF CPU Block
> EK CoolStream RAD XTX 240
> EK DCP 4.0 pump
> EK MultiOption RES X3
> EK PSC Fittings
> EK EKoolant Concentrate + Distilled Water
> 
> I was lucky enough to have my own distiller which produces 0 ppm (parts per million), which saved me trouble trying to find somewhere that sold it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tubes light up quite bright which the camera does not show very well.
> 
> I've had the HAF932 for a few years now and never thought I would utilize the lashings of space above the motherboard... so glad I didn't get rid now.
> 
> 
> 
> What you guys think... any thoughts/comments?


I'd look at adding a 90 to the pump outlet and rotating the pump so the tubes come off front to back, as opposed to side to side.

That would allow you to run the loop: res > pump > cpu > rad > res and it would clean up the tubing runs considerably.

Darlene


----------



## EnticingSausage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> How are the NB fans? I have a XSPC RS and EX and need fans for both. They will be on a controller but am hoping I can have them be really quiet.
> thanks


I have all of them, eloops are great if they're in push and nothings restricting them otherwise they make an unpleasant noise. Multiframes are really nice though


----------



## audioholic

Hmm I'll have to think on that. Thanks for the info!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Eugh, don't even talk to me about tubing. I'm having a nightmare on deciding what to go with.
> 
> Clouding, plasticizer, coloured, clear, dyes. So much to consider!


I just got my hands on some 3/8-5/8 Tygon Norprene. I know it doesn't have the greatest bend radius but seems like it has been trouble free for a lot of people, and i love the matte black colour.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiraq*
> 
> I have 2 x those 120mm eLoops but as Noiseblocker white/black, best 25mm noise/performance radiator fans I've ever had.


Agreed. I still plan on dying mine black at some point.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flamin9_t00l*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> Took the plunge into custom watercooling about a week ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very pleased with the cooling ability. Able to take my Xeon W3680 up to 4.60GHz with no effort and very respectable temps.
> 
> Using an all EK Kit for my first attempt as it came with a guide and the CPU block, rad and pump are high performing parts. Ended up barely looking at the guide lol... Who reads instructions anyway.
> 
> EK H30 HFX 240 parts:
> EK Supreme HF CPU Block
> EK CoolStream RAD XTX 240
> EK DCP 4.0 pump
> EK MultiOption RES X3
> EK PSC Fittings
> EK EKoolant Concentrate + Distilled Water
> 
> I was lucky enough to have my own distiller which produces 0 ppm (parts per million), which saved me trouble trying to find somewhere that sold it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tubes light up quite bright which the camera does not show very well.
> 
> I've had the HAF932 for a few years now and never thought I would utilize the lashings of space above the motherboard... so glad I didn't get rid now.
> 
> 
> 
> What you guys think... any thoughts/comments?


Looks good (particularly lit up) but when I built my WC loop in my HAF-X (I used to have a HAF 932 but sold it because the HAF-X has more space and a black interior) I wanted the tubes to be as inconspicuous as possible so I rotated the pump through 90 degrees so the the inlet faced front and put a 90 degree elbow on the pump then ran the tube along the bottom of the case then through another 90 degree elbow up to the Reservoir then up to the radiator.Somebody said it was a bad idea to have 2 extra joints because it restricts coolant flow but I don't think it has much if any effect.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So you want to go with something like this?
> 
> I wouldn't even bother.
> Would probably be better off doing something like I did if you want to go all out like that and run a 360 up top and a 360 in the front.
> 
> But if you have 3 hard drive it would be a real PIA. I had two SSDs which I was able to stick behind the motherboard tray, and them laid my one HDD down at the bottom behind the front radiator.


Did you mod any of the stuff there?


----------



## Janac

Can i paint the water with temepera paint?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Can i paint the water with temepera paint?


No.

It will clog badly,use a dye,paint wont hold in suspension.


----------



## chizijs

My first water cooling setup..







Next I plan to upgrade GPU and put it under water.


----------



## IT Diva

Since someone likes to be negative at every opportunity regarding my stretched case build, I don't bring it up much here, but since this thread is about water cooling and pics, I wanted to show the lighted res mod I came up with that is equally applicable for any bitspower res that has a similarly sized CCFL tube available.

Essentially, I'm putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.

My resevoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical resevoirs, or shorter ones.

Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.

Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.

I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.

To give an idea of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:



And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:



Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:

The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube untill it fits in the fitting.

I opted for a different method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.

I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original O rings, which makes for a fit like a baseball in a garden hose.

I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the O rings hold the tube captive.

Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amout of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.

I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swappping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.

Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:



Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:



Here's all the parts layed out:



Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:



Tube end bevelled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:



Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:



Partially assembled:



Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:



And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:





Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,

Darlene


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Did you mod any of the stuff there?


I did.


----------



## crazyg0od33

Darlene:

that res is amazing. Really awesome.
Question about the build. Is this going to be an actual PC to use, or just more like a show build? I only ask because I recall Mayhems saying the aurora coolant was mainly for show builds


----------



## EnticingSausage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,
> 
> Darlene


That looks brilliant, I'll most definitely be attempting that


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> Darlene:
> 
> that res is amazing. Really awesome.
> Question about the build. Is this going to be an actual PC to use, or just more like a show build? I only ask because I recall Mayhems saying the aurora coolant was mainly for show builds


At some point I'll likely switch to pastels, but I'll surely be taking tons of nice pics when it's ready for prime time, and Aurora just sets it off.

Who knows, maybe NZXT will want to buy it and tote it around to the shows . . . . a D Wood pedestal with powered running gear inside with wheels so it could be driven like a giant RC car . . . Could it get any more insane than that!

Darlene


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Since someone likes to be negative at every opportunity regarding my stretched case build, I don't bring it up much here, but since this thread is about water cooling and pics, I wanted to show the lighted res mod I came up with that is equally applicable for any bitspower res that has a similarly sized CCFL tube available.
> 
> Essentially, I'm putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.
> 
> My resevoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical resevoirs, or shorter ones.
> 
> Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.
> 
> Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.
> 
> I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.
> 
> To give an idea of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:
> 
> 
> 
> Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:
> 
> The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube untill it fits in the fitting.
> 
> I opted for a different method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.
> 
> I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original O rings, which makes for a fit like a baseball in a garden hose.
> 
> I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the O rings hold the tube captive.
> 
> Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amout of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.
> 
> I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swappping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.
> 
> Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,
> 
> Darlene


I don't think i have the materials or skill necessary to do that ... will you have any for sale? I'd be very interested in the white one ...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Since someone likes to be negative at every opportunity regarding my stretched case build, I don't bring it up much here, but since this thread is about water cooling and pics, I wanted to show the lighted res mod I came up with that is equally applicable for any bitspower res that has a similarly sized CCFL tube available.
> 
> Essentially, I'm putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.
> 
> My resevoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical resevoirs, or shorter ones.
> 
> Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.
> 
> Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.
> 
> I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> To give an idea of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:
> 
> 
> 
> Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:
> 
> The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube untill it fits in the fitting.
> 
> I opted for a different method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.
> 
> I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original O rings, which makes for a fit like a baseball in a garden hose.
> 
> I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the O rings hold the tube captive.
> 
> Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amout of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.
> 
> I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swappping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.
> 
> Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts layed out:
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:
> 
> 
> 
> Tube end bevelled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> Partially assembled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Im not a fan of your stretched case but i am a fan of homebrew engineering. Nice work,a very good workaround and a good result.

I use those only those res for my own builds,cant beat them.


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> At some point I'll likely switch to pastels, but I'll surely be taking tons of nice pics when it's ready for prime time, and Aurora just sets it off.
> 
> Who knows, maybe NZXT will want to buy it and tote it around to the shows . . . . a D Wood pedestal with powered running gear inside with wheels so it could be driven like a giant RC car . . . Could it get any more insane than that!
> 
> Darlene


then it would, quite literally, be a stretch limo


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not a fan of your stretched case but i am a fan of homebrew engineering. Nice work,a very good workaround and a good result.
> 
> I use those only those res for my own builds,cant beat them.


Thank you very much.

We don't always see aesthetics the same way, but we do usually agree on the engineering and skills demonstrated in a mod, or build.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not a fan of your stretched case but i am a fan of homebrew engineering. Nice work,a very good workaround and a good result.
> 
> I use those only those res for my own builds,cant beat them.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much.
> 
> We don't always see aesthetics the same way, but *we do usually agree on the engineering and skills demonstrated in a mod, or build.*
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Indeed we do.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It didnt corrode it at all,that was plasticizer.


Oh ok, just trying to help


----------



## XCII

Just got my first water cooling running.


----------



## CiBi




----------



## morencyam

Very nice desk setup you have there cibi. Very minimalist. I like it


----------



## Hokies83

Those old lines are just for leak testing lol. Cause i do not want to cut what is left of my good ones..


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumbazz*
> 
> I like it.Neet. VRMs and Northbridge if your board is warming up.


Ty... I will not be taking the voltage above 1.45 so I guess the VRM's will be ok as they're military grade lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have a Sabertooth x58 as well and the NB does seem to get pretty toasty. There was never a block made specifically for this board, but I think a few of the Koolance universal blocks fit. Never tried myself as i really don't like the look of them too much


I noticed that the X58 NB gets pretty hot since I first got the board... much hotter than my old P6T SE which had a much smaller heatsink. When I have the side panel on the HAF the 200mm fan keeps temps in check.

Thanks for the info about the Koolance blocks... will look into it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Looks good (particularly lit up) but when I built my WC loop in my HAF-X (I used to have a HAF 932 but sold it because the HAF-X has more space and a black interior) I wanted the tubes to be as inconspicuous as possible so I rotated the pump through 90 degrees so the the inlet faced front and put a 90 degree elbow on the pump then ran the tube along the bottom of the case then through another 90 degree elbow up to the Reservoir then up to the radiator.Somebody said it was a bad idea to have 2 extra joints because it restricts coolant flow but I don't think it has much if any effect.


Ty... I also don't like the gray metal interior of the 932 which has been bugging me for a while now... but with the UV lighting I've just added makes the interior look painted purple as the light floods the whole case interior (very pleased with the finished look).

Very nice build btw and as you said I doubt a couple of 90s would restrict much if at all. I watched a youtube vid before my WC kit arrived done by singularity computers and he had something like 10-15 90 degree fittings installed. It looked wicked but I couldn't help thinking that flow might be restricted. When he filled the loop it seemed to take quite a while to take the coolant out of the res and that was with 2 very good pumps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GO_DnAggLI&list=SPBA1C77A8DA73EB44


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd look at adding a 90 to the pump outlet and rotating the pump so the tubes come off front to back, as opposed to side to side.
> 
> That would allow you to run the loop: res > pump > cpu > rad > res and it would clean up the tubing runs considerably.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the advice... I will consider this when I refill my loop.









EDIT: That's a very nice res mod... respect.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flamin9_t00l*
> 
> I noticed that the X58 NB gets pretty hot since I first got the board... much hotter than my old P6T SE which had a much smaller heatsink. When I have the side panel on the HAF the 200mm fan keeps temps in check.
> Thanks for the info about the Koolance blocks... will look into it.


NP







If you end up getting one and it works, shot me a PM or something as I might look into getting one as well


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> How are the NB fans? I have a XSPC RS and EX and need fans for both. They will be on a controller but am hoping I can have them be really quiet.
> thanks


Best you can get atm besides Gentle Typhhoons for rad usage !


----------



## SeekerZA

Can anyone here help me get a motherboard vrm cooler for my asus z68 v pro/gen3.

Yes i know it's not ROG or Formula Board but i'm running a OC of 4.8Ghz on my 2500k and i feel cooling the mb vrm can assist stability. Also those mb coolers, do they add alot of restriction to the loop since i hardly see anyone of use here cooling those?

One last thing, Only to be purchased between FrozenCPU and Performance PC's

Thanks


----------



## PinzaC55

Keep the photos coming! Those Phobya NB eloops are total eye candy but unfortunately they don't seem to be available in the UK yet.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Keep the photos coming! Those Phobya NB eloops are total eye candy but unfortunately they don't seem to be available in the UK yet.


Tried Aquatuning?

They are PhobyaAlphacool so i will be surprised if they dont stock them.


----------



## PinzaC55

aquatuning.co.uk/shop_content.php/coID/1584/XTCsid/5r8kdkvp1n2kjl7sgqfhlfdrs6

Not in stock yet


----------



## kcuestag

I'd like to remind everyone we are here to share our pictures and discuss about water cooling, not to name call on other members or advertising your site.

Keep this clean!


----------



## mandrix

Very nice tutorial, Darlene. I was wondering how you made the acrylic tubing fit the connections.
There are a few around that are always disparaging of others builds, some who only respond negatively, and some who outright ignore questions on some arbitrary basis, or so it seems.
Who cares? Avoid the jerks and enjoy your builds.


----------



## _REAPER_

where do you buy acrylic tubing?


----------



## dumbazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> where do you buy acrylic tubing?


Some of these do it your selfers I just have to say look at mcmastercarr.com


----------



## dumbazz

How bout some photos Bub?


----------



## Janac

What do you think?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


Congrats! and like it...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

So I bought a little mini vac to clean all the dust out of my radiator fan dust filters and I've seen a 10C improvement in load water temps! Who knew? Lol...

Btw, you can see the former dust in my sig rig pic. That was taken a couple months ago so you can imagine how bad it was!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So I bought a little mini vac to clean all the dust out of my radiator fan dust filters and I've seen a 10C improvement in load water temps! Who knew? Lol...
> 
> Btw, you can see the former dust in my sig rig pic. That was taken a couple months ago so you can imagine how bad it was!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Geez Majin, you should know you gotta clean out the dust at least once a month!








Gorgeous build btw


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


Very nice, clear coolant goes well with your case. Nice day over there too.


----------



## num1son

Just finished yesterday, what do you all think?





Tons more photos starting here:

Smokey Green Giant Log


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Just finished yesterday, what do you all think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tons more photos starting here:
> 
> Smokey Green Giant Log












Words.. I cannot find the ones to describe how much I absolutely love this....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Just finished yesterday, what do you all think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tons more photos starting here:
> 
> Smokey Green Giant Log


To be honest I don't really like the color scheme but the modding and loop design are superb! I love the little pump window in the bottom! Excellent build!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Words.. I cannot find the ones to describe how much I absolutely love this....


You're making me blush, thank you sir!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> To be honest I don't really like the color scheme but the modding and loop design are superb! I love the little pump window in the bottom! Excellent build!


Well can't please em' all, thank you though!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Eh, never been a fan of green builds myself but its still an amazing rig!


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol, awesome! I love BP fittings!


----------



## morencyam

It looks like a little tank lol


----------



## grimmy

finally got around to draining my loop for the first time and fixed some things i missed when i first built this loop/mod over the summer hope you all like it http://www.overclock.net/t/1213648/project-dream-eater-first-water-set-up-and-case-mod-cheers-finished

i dyed the water uv purple recently and it looks sick


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> finally got around to draining my loop for the first time and fixed some things i missed when i first built this loop/mod over the summer hope you all like it http://www.overclock.net/t/1213648/project-dream-eater-first-water-set-up-and-case-mod-cheers-finished
> 
> i dyed the water uv purple recently and it looks sick
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How is the 4x Helix? i looked at them but decided i think the double looked better to me.


----------



## grimmy

the 4 helix looks too cluttered for my taste if i could go back and do anything id have a green black helix and not the double green that i have now


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Just finished yesterday, what do you all think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tons more photos starting here:
> 
> Smokey Green Giant Log


sick! love seing those dual tube res builds, looks so good


----------



## wermad

Thoughts on xspc gpu blocks?


----------



## phillyd

look good and perform well. not to mention inexpensive.


----------



## Janac

whyyyyyyyy so green


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> How is the 4x Helix? i looked at them but decided i think the double looked better to me.


FrozenQ makes a triple and quad helix; they look nice but I still prefer the double helix








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> look good and perform well. not to mention inexpensive.


Thanks bud







. Seems like xspc has a ton of 680 and 7970 blocks available (EK too). Looks like others have stopped or are halting production. I'm not sure if they know the next gen is still pending to be released







. Would have liked to pick up a few HK or AC blocks.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> FrozenQ makes a triple and quad helix; they look nice but I still prefer the double helix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Seems like xspc has a ton of 680 and 7970 blocks available (EK too). Looks like others have stopped or are halting production. I'm not sure if they know the next gen is still pending to be released
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Would have liked to pick up a few HK or AC blocks.


LoL tested loop out last night.. That xspc res /750 pump does nothing for the loop lol... The 35X on the Apongee Drive II is enough for the whole loop lol. thing is beast.. and still quirt at max rpm...

Selling it and replacing it with a Red helix bay res..


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Seems like xspc has a ton of 680 and 7970 blocks available (EK too). Looks like others have stopped or are halting production. I'm not sure if they know the next gen is still pending to be released
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Would have liked to pick up a few HK or AC blocks.


Still selling DD 680 blocks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thoughts on xspc gpu blocks?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> look good and perform well. not to mention inexpensive.


This.

The new Razors are a fine looking thing when lit up.


----------



## Dredknot

Added some Mayhems Uv laser green dye to the loop. Has anyone tried the phobya Led UV lights that just came out? These CCLs just don't cut it for me.


----------



## audioholic

That laser green looks so much better!!!!


----------



## nleksan

Wait, no more HK blocks being produced?!?!?! Ugh, time to dip into the 401K and buy ALL OF THEM! MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA


----------



## EnticingSausage

Where did you hear that? No shortage as far as I can tell thankfully


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

What you talkin' 'bout Willis? No more HK blocks???


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Wait, no more HK blocks being produced?!?!?! Ugh, time to dip into the 401K and buy ALL OF THEM! MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA


I think you twisted his words a little bit. Pretty sure he meant only for certain GPUs


----------



## wermad

had to get off my phone









I'm looking for either 680 or 7970 blocks. I'm seeing very few if not non at all of Aquacomputer, Heatkiller, and Koolance blocks for these newer cards. I'm looking for three or four of them and its a shame there's low or no stock. I had asked about xspc because frozencpu.com and ppcs.com has plenty in stock of them (alphacool and ek are stocked up too).

@ B-Negative. Thanks







The led touch really makes them attractive (including their price). Also, their link system seems pretty solid to hook up three or four cards.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Remember that time you thought you were going to go back to air cooling? Lol...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Remember that time you thought you were going to go back to air cooling? Lol...


That was fun. I will say its as challenging as water cooling but for the gpus, the temps are not as good









I'm selling my current gpu setup since I couldn't get another of the same gpu through the warranty. I'm getting a pretty solid card but I'm leaning on a different approach tbh.


----------



## EnticingSausage

PPCs has a few of the HK copper 680 blocks in stock, have one myself and it's my favourite part of my loop


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> had to get off my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for either 680 or 7970 blocks. I'm seeing very few if not non at all of Aquacomputer, Heatkiller, and Koolance blocks for these newer cards. I'm looking for three or four of them and its a shame there's low or no stock. I had asked about xspc because frozencpu.com and ppcs.com has plenty in stock of them (alphacool and ek are stocked up too).
> 
> @ B-Negative. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The led touch really makes them attractive (including their price). Also, their link system seems pretty solid to hook up three or four cards.


what block is that? lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> what block is that? lol


Its the Flynn special edition









edit: Btw, did you sell the Alphacool 7970 block?

Me likes this:



On a reference to an old post of mine. I complained on how expensive the BP GTX 680 block is. Then I read the specs and i didn't realize it comes with a ton of accessories:
Quote:


> Arctic Silver Matrix 2.5G X 1.
> Fujipoly Thermal PAD Included.
> Backup O-Ring For VG-NGTX680 x 1Set.
> BP-MBWP-C01 Matt Black 1/2" Fitting x 2PCS.
> BP-MBWP-C06 Matt Black Stop Fitting x 2PCS.
> BP-MBWP-C47 Matt Black Multi-Link Adapter x 2PCS.
> Acrylic Tub 19/39/60/80 MM x 1Set.
> Bitspower Backplane x 1PCS.
> Mounting Screws/Accessories -EZ-PLUG Mounting Ready Now.(PAT. Pending)


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its the Flynn special edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Btw, did you sell the Alphacool 7970 block?
> 
> Me likes this:
> 
> 
> 
> On a reference to an old post of mine. I complained on how expensive the BP GTX 680 block is. Then I read the specs and i didn't realize it comes with a ton of accessories:


yeah

sold 2x cards

2x blocks\

Ironically still short on cash so selling a ref 6970


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> yeah
> 
> sold 2x cards
> 
> 2x blocks\
> 
> Ironically still short on cash so selling a ref 6970


going back to air?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


Its nice!, I think some white gloss paint on that pump and your good to go!!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> going back to air?


still on water, just no gpu's :/


----------



## PCModderMike

Little res for a little case


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Little res for a little case


Nice, but I have had small ones like those create air bubbles before, I had a strong pump though. The water shot in so hard that it made small bubbles that some of which exited in the outlet and up the hose. Just my experiance though, it was with an 600LPM pump which I stopped the problem by tuning it down using a fan controller but the pump exentually gave out because it was a brush fan and overheated when used with a regulator.







oh well old project long gone!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Thinking of going with two 680 Lightnings boys. Problem is, which waterblocks? EK or Aquacomputer? CSQ is actually growing on me believe it or not...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Thinking of going with two 680 Lightnings boys. Problem is, which waterblocks? EK or Aquacomputer? CSQ is actually growing on me believe it or not...


I never really minded CSQ


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I hated it at first but lately I don't hate it as much. Still not as good as the old blocks but not as terrible either...


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> finally got around to draining my loop for the first time and fixed some things i missed when i first built this loop/mod over the summer hope you all like it http://www.overclock.net/t/1213648/project-dream-eater-first-water-set-up-and-case-mod-cheers-finished
> 
> i dyed the water uv purple recently and it looks sick


Sick build that looks nice


----------



## Red1776

already have three pumps, four rads installed.
The rest of the project just showed up


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> already have three pumps, four rads installed.
> The rest of the project just showed up


That's why I want HK!!!! Looks like you monopolized all the HK 7970 blocks


----------



## iMica

Cant decide on 7970 waterblock ;-;

Was going to crossfire and use EK with a bridge....but, sold the 2nd 7970 the second I got it lol.

Still looking at EK block but need to pick up two 90 degrees for it correct?
Also looking at the Heatkiller (Out of stock forever) and now the xspc lol...but no real pictures of it


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> already have three pumps, four rads installed.
> The rest of the project just showed up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I want HK!!!! Looks like you monopolized all the HK 7970 blocks
Click to expand...

I talked to Joe at Frozen CPU and the next shipment is in two weeks


----------



## wermad

Folks say the xspc are good blocks and they make a link system.

Ek csq blocks can be linked with sli fittings or you can use a bridge system

Sucks, everyone is out of or low on stock on 7970 from HK, AC, and a few more. I checked out Watercool's site and found they have some. I tried to checkout to see what the total price would be and its a bit expensive. I saw they're charging VAT and I don't know if don't realize VAT doesn't apply to me or they're using it for customs/export fees.

Log-in to my WC account and saw they won't charge VAT, but shipping is $40 :s. Might just wait for Frozencpu (its slightly cheaper







).

https://sage-shop.com/epages/WatercooleK.sf/sec99129ab68d/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserkuehler/GPU_Kuehler/%22Radeon%20HD%207xxx%22
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I talked to Joe at Frozen CPU and the next shipment is in two weeks


Thanks!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> already have three pumps, four rads installed.
> The rest of the project just showed up


Why do you need 3 pumps for 4 tiny rads?

My one mcp 35X alone is enough to push 4x monsta 360s and 650 ML of res that I sold my 2nd pump as it was un needed and changed flow by nothing?


----------



## wermad

My 35x is powering on my whole system







:

-cpu
-quad gpu(s)
-three monsta 480s


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My 35x is powering on my whole system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> -cpu
> -quad gpu(s)
> -three monsta 480s


IKR beast of a pump....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> IKR beast of a pump....


But, its quirky....if the power gets cut all of a sudden, it takes 5-10mins before it starts up again. It doesn't play well with my Koolance top (had to loosen up the tension on the screws), and its gets uber hot in confined areas. I never got the pwm going so I'm running it full blast (noisier then my old 355s). Still, once it works, it works pretty darn good


----------



## iMica

Any real temp difference between waterblocks for gpu?

Probably going to just get the EK block lol


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> But, its quirky....if the power gets cut all of a sudden, it takes 5-10mins before it starts up again. It doesn't play well with my Koolance top (had to loosen up the tension on the screws), and its gets uber hot in confined areas. I never got the pwm going so I'm running it full blast (noisier then my old 355s). Still, once it works, it works pretty darn good


Im using the 35X inside of the Apongee Drive II and even and full blast it is quiet and primes up in afew secs.

Pump is the Mini Hulk lol

I see they make a duel Mcp 35X and im like uh? what the heck does anybody need 2 of them for @[email protected] 15 rad monsta loop?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> IKR beast of a pump....
> 
> 
> 
> But, its quirky....if the power gets cut all of a sudden, it takes 5-10mins before it starts up again. It doesn't play well with my Koolance top (had to loosen up the tension on the screws), and its gets uber hot in confined areas. I never got the pwm going so I'm running it full blast (noisier then my old 355s). Still, once it works, it works pretty darn good
Click to expand...

I was leak testing a part of my loop... VPP655, EK CPU block and EX240 ... I left it for about 24 hours with no airflow over the rad. and the whole loop (Rad, cpu block) were *hot* to the touch. You said it gets uber hot ... is that the same thing i'm experiencing? It scared me to the point where I thought my loop had a restriction point in it ... thinking the rad was plugged in the wrong way or something


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I was leak testing a part of my loop... VPP655, EK CPU block and EX240 ... I left it for about 24 hours with no airflow over the rad. and the whole loop (Rad, cpu block) were *hot* to the touch. You said it gets uber hot ... is that the same thing i'm experiencing? It scared me to the point where I thought my loop had a restriction point in it ... thinking the rad was plugged in the wrong way or something


Well a pump is gonna generate heat regardless.. and i guess over a long period of time that heat would build up?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I was leak testing a part of my loop... VPP655, EK CPU block and EX240 ... I left it for about 24 hours with no airflow over the rad. and the whole loop (Rad, cpu block) were *hot* to the touch. You said it gets uber hot ... is that the same thing i'm experiencing? It scared me to the point where I thought my loop had a restriction point in it ... thinking the rad was plugged in the wrong way or something
> 
> 
> 
> Well a pump is gonna generate heat regardless.. and i guess over a long period of time that heat would build up?
Click to expand...

It still has a rad :| idk i guess i kinda got freaked

That being said ... I have no idea if I oriented the tubing on the CPU block properly







:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Any real temp difference between waterblocks for gpu?
> 
> Probably going to just get the EK block lol


They should all perform very close. Only thing keeping me from ek is the csq design and the bridge system is overtly complex as before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Im using the 35X inside of the Apongee Drive II and even and full blast it is quiet and primes up in afew secs.
> 
> Pump is the Mini Hulk lol
> 
> I see they make a duel Mcp 35X and im like uh? what the heck does anybody need 2 of them for @[email protected] 15 rad monsta loop?


Are you running pwm? It is a powerful pump. I've always been fan of DDCs, D5 are pretty good too









Redundancy is my best guess. Or just more e-peen....which reminds me, should fit for your build, ?






















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I was leak testing a part of my loop... VPP655, EK CPU block and EX240 ... I left it for about 24 hours with no airflow over the rad. and the whole loop (Rad, cpu block) were *hot* to the touch. You said it gets uber hot ... is that the same thing i'm experiencing? It scared me to the point where I thought my loop had a restriction point in it ... thinking the rad was plugged in the wrong way or something


DDCs are known to run a bit hot and the 35x does generate a bit more. There's actual heatsinks for them (specifically for the 35x).

Anyways, I did have a D5 in a bay res a while ago and it did get hot. In confined areas, pump will get hot, though the ddc is slightly hotter. I'm not sure if they have a thermal shutdown but if you're not sure if the pump needs air flow or its actually overheating, pull it out and just test run it.


----------



## Hokies83

Nah i just used the 4 pin as i was leak testing.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Well I looked up the PDF for my 5-year old block ( EK Supreme ; the original ). I have the ports reversed. From your guys' experience, how much does this impede the flow?


----------



## King4x4

From what I know reversing ports on a block = Heat efficiency drop.


----------



## dmanstasiu

I was looking for some more precise percentages on flow impedance









Anyways i'll fix it tomorrow after work... time for some ZZZ


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Thinking of going with two 680 Lightnings boys. Problem is, which waterblocks? EK or Aquacomputer? CSQ is actually growing on me believe it or not...


Get the EK's. I was the same as you, HATED CSQ but I have a 7970 lighting block and it looks better than the pics. Also use the EK bridge as it adds a lot of strength.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*


That's one sweat ass clean, compact and streamlined looking water block *EK_tiborrr*, I like that it covers 95 percent of the PCB!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Ok...... So xue to my speratic personallity I have trashed my Zalman Z11 case and getting a Azza 9000 plus I have ordered 3 360mm Radiators on the way with a 660lph pump. But I plan on keeping my H100i, and 2 H70 pumps in a parallel setup not a loop so its gonna be interesting how it ends up.


----------



## King4x4

They need mcp35x2 for redundancy and silence hookies!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Little res for a little case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So small ^_^ Sweet pics, getting use to that DSLR.







When are you going to have that FT03 under water?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> So small ^_^ Sweet pics, getting use to that DSLR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When are you going to have that FT03 under water?


Who said anything about the FT03 going under??









LOL...still gotta file for my return to get a few more things


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Who said anything about the FT03 going under??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *LOL...still gotta file for my return to get a few more things*ngs


You little sneak!


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Any real temp difference between waterblocks for gpu?
> 
> Probably going to just get the EK block lol


This is the most authentic testing I have seen....


TEMP DELTA-T


FLOW-RATE (LPH?)


COST (EUROS)

Not to mention, the HK blocks look like THIS:




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Im using the 35X inside of the Apongee Drive II and even and full blast it is quiet and primes up in afew secs.
> 
> Pump is the Mini Hulk lol
> 
> I see they make a duel Mcp 35X and im like uh? what the heck does anybody need 2 of them for @[email protected] 15 rad monsta loop?


The MCP35X is a true powerhouse! I have two of them myself, and I have been holding off on getting the MCP35X2-Housing (the white one) for months now, because it's just hard to justify! I want the redundancy and crazy-pressure at ~20-30% speed, not so much the block-popping 100%-speed pressure!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> This is the most authentic testing I have seen....
> 
> 
> TEMP DELTA-T
> 
> Not to mention, the HK blocks look like THIS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FLOW-RATE (LPH?)
> 
> 
> COST (EUROS)
> 
> The MCP35X is a true powerhouse! I have two of them myself, and I have been holding off on getting the MCP35X2-Housing (the white one) for months now, because it's just hard to justify! I want the redundancy and crazy-pressure at ~20-30% speed, not so much the block-popping 100%-speed pressure!


Wow! HK and AC are really good! Gonna force myself to spend a bit more and go with HK or AC. So hard to decide but I'm leaning on HK


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow! HK and AC are really good! Gonna force myself to spend a bit more and go with HK or AC. So hard to decide but I'm leaning on HK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I vote for HK. I like the look a little better than AC


----------



## superericla

Just some updated photos of my build.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just some updated photos of my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, you're a CaseLabs owner now.








Is the link to your log in your sig?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow, you're a CaseLabs owner now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the link to your log in your sig?


Yes, that's the link to my log. The log is continual though, so it dates back to when I had a Switch 810, then a Dwood test bench. I haven't put many pictures up of the build in the CaseLabs case, but I'm always willing to take more if interest arises.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Yes, that's the link to my log. The log is continual though, so it dates back to when I had a Switch 810, then a Dwood test bench. I haven't put many pictures up of the build in the CaseLabs case, but I'm always willing to take more if interest arises.


Cool, I might have some interest.


----------



## UsofaKingDumb

This is what is use to look like before I re-did my loop.



And this is after...














Kinda bummed that one my uv lights came broke... either need to sped time and solder it back on or go to frozen cpu to buy another for $4 plus $5 shipping. Hope you enjoy!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow! HK and AC are really good! Gonna force myself to spend a bit more and go with HK or AC. So hard to decide but I'm leaning on HK


I have 2x Aquacomputer Aquagrafx GTX680 waterblocks and couldn't be happier, they perform like beasts and aesthetically look amazing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I have 2x Aquacomputer Aquagrafx GTX680 waterblocks and couldn't be happier, they perform like beasts and aesthetically look amazing.


What setup do you have to link them?


----------



## WaitWhat

Received all my watercooling stuff so building it all into my Phantom 820 tomorrow! Can't wait, praying for no leaks


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What setup do you have to link them?


Check my build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/845484/build-log-watercooled-i7-3930k-rampage-iv-extreme-gtx680-sli

I use them on my rig, just don't think I ever made pictures of the cards off the rig, just once installed.









edit:

Actually I do have one from the phone, give me a moment

Here it is:


----------



## xintence

man thats a nice block!

hey guys umm i have a question its coming to the point where i have to drain my loop and i was just wondering what the best way to do it is because i only am water cooling the cpu atm and i am trying to figure out how to drain it without making a mess everywhere ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

HK.....FTW.

I love them!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xintence*
> 
> man thats a nice block!
> 
> hey guys umm i have a question its coming to the point where i have to drain my loop and i was just wondering what the best way to do it is because i only am water cooling the cpu atm and i am trying to figure out how to drain it without making a mess everywhere ?


If you don't have any sort of T-Line built into your loop, then remove your CPU block with the tubes attached from your case and remove one of the tubes from the block over a bucket and blow into the tube to remove any excess liquid.

Hope that helps!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## xintence

thanks alot mate will give it ago tonight think i will get a T setup aswell to make it eazer


----------



## xintence

i bought that pump form ple- computer parts shop in perth Australia first one i bought leaked everywhere 2nd one had a crack in the threads so after that i just went with the 4.0 alot bigger but its a great pump dont know what was up with the 2.2 pumps


----------



## TheOx

Deleted, double post.


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xintence*
> 
> i bought that pump form ple- computer parts shop in perth Australia first one i bought leaked everywhere 2nd one had a crack in the threads so after that i just went with the 4.0 alot bigger but its a great pump dont know what was up with the 2.2 pumps


Funny you say. I have 2 ek 2.2 pumps and both work fine and haven't failed me yet. One is over a year old now and still going strong. I got mine from gammods.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Check my build log:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/845484/build-log-watercooled-i7-3930k-rampage-iv-extreme-gtx680-sli
> 
> I use them on my rig, just don't think I ever made pictures of the cards off the rig, just once installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> 
> Actually I do have one from the phone, give me a moment
> 
> Here it is:


Nice, you have fittings connecting them








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> HK.....FTW.
> 
> I love them!


Which links do you have (or better yet, whats the spacing measurement between the ports? i still have the BP D-plugs (BP-MBWP-C38, aka 1") which worked great for my DD blocks. I could always go with the HK or AC bridge, but honestly I prefer series flow path for gpus


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xintence*
> 
> man thats a nice block!
> 
> hey guys umm i have a question its coming to the point where i have to drain my loop and i was just wondering what the best way to do it is because i only am water cooling the cpu atm and i am trying to figure out how to drain it without making a mess everywhere ?


First off, I agree with what Jeffinslaw said. You could also try taking the loop out fully intact And drain it externally into the sink or a bowl. If you have a bay res and have enough slack in the tubes, you could pull the res out far enough and drain it that way. But adding a t-block to the lowest point of the loop is definitely the easiest way of draining.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

They are 15mm D Plugs Werm.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are 15mm D Plugs Werm.


BP?


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Anyone know the difference? I'm thinking one is a newer revision. The PPCs one looks nicer to me.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_660&products_id=31143

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13380/ex-res-294/Koolance_RP-401X2_Single_525_Reservoir_for_1-2_PMP-400_Pumps_Rev_11.html?tl=g30c97s168#blank


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice, you have fittings connecting them


Yeah, by the time I ordered the Magicool 540mm rad and the GPU waterblocks I couldn't afford adding a tubing "bridge" for the GPU's, so I just went with fittings plus some tubing, and honestly, I like it.









On another topic, is there any guide on the net on how to install the Laing D5 on the XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic reservoir? I have the D5 with an EK X-TOP v2 and honestly have no idea how exactly I can remove the top and how exactly to install the pump on the reservoir, the pump came as it is installed right now with the X-TOP v2 from EK, so I didn't have to do that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Anyone know the difference? I'm thinking one is a newer revision. The PPCs one looks nicer to me.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_660&products_id=31143
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13380/ex-res-294/Koolance_RP-401X2_Single_525_Reservoir_for_1-2_PMP-400_Pumps_Rev_11.html?tl=g30c97s168#blank


The later is a revised version. Koolance is known to make updates/revisions to these complex reservoirs. Best bet is to get the newest version (later one) or contact Koolance to find the difference. Koolance's site has the later one (and slightly cheaper







) too.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah, by the time I ordered the Magicool 540mm rad and the GPU waterblocks I couldn't afford adding a tubing "bridge" for the GPU's, so I just went with fittings plus some tubing, and honestly, I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another topic, is there any guide on the net on how to install the Laing D5 on the XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic reservoir? I have the D5 with an EK X-TOP v2 and honestly have no idea how exactly I can remove the top and how exactly to install the pump on the reservoir, the pump came as it is installed right now with the X-TOP v2 from EK, so I didn't have to do that.


there's a few different versions:

http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/d5bayres.pdf

http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/d5bayres2.pdf

http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/twin-d5-bayres.pdf


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ok...... So xue to my speratic personallity I have trashed my Zalman Z11 case and getting a Azza 9000 plus I have ordered 3 360mm Radiators on the way with a 660lph pump. But I plan on keeping my H100i, and 2 H70 pumps in a parallel setup not a loop so its gonna be interesting how it ends up.


If your getting the Azza 9000 and putting a few 360's in there i suggest
placing your power supply in the front part of the case and tilt it on its
side. i have a 480 on top and 360 on bottom and that's how i pulled it off.
if you don't tilt the psu on it's side your gonna have problems placing a 360 on the bottom + the psu..
Also to fit my Monsta 480 rad on the top of the case i had to add an addition which is still in
progress.. this build is taking me wayy to long but will be very nice when i'm done.
hope this gives you an idea or 2 when you get your case.


----------



## Jinto

Could anyone tell me a good method for testing a pump? I currently have a Koolance PMP-400 Pump and after many trials and tribulations I decided to yank everything out. My system has been out of order for nearly two months now and the delay is killing me.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> If your getting the Azza 9000 and putting a few 360's in there i suggest
> placing your power supply in the front part of the case and tilt it on its
> side. i have a 480 on top and 360 on bottom and that's how i pulled it off.
> if you don't tilt the psu on it's side your gonna have problems placing a 360 on the bottom + the psu..
> Also to fit my Monsta 480 rad on the top of the case i had to add an addition which is still in
> progress.. this build is taking me wayy to long but will be very nice when i'm done.
> hope this gives you an idea or 2 when you get your case.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Reminds me of my Elysium and 800D builds








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> Could anyone tell me a good method for testing a pump? I currently have a Koolance PMP-400 Pump and after many trials and tribulations I decided to yank everything out. My system has been out of order for nearly two months now and the delay is killing me.


Those reservoirs are known to be headaches. Have you tried putting the stock pump top back and just run a simple test on it (outside your rig).


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> there's a few different versions:
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/d5bayres.pdf
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/d5bayres2.pdf
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/twin-d5-bayres.pdf


Thanks, can't wait for it to arrive, should be here in within Thursday.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks, can't wait for it to arrive, should be here in within Thursday.


Which one did you get?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks, can't wait for it to arrive, should be here in within Thursday.


i had such a hard time with mine on my old RV01 build, i was about to smash the stupid rez, kept freaking leaking, as wermad said, leak test before installing it in the case


----------



## Yukss

New pump *res XD

Not the best case for cablemanagement.. actually HORRIBLE... imma buy the corsair 600t
360rad above is not in the pics.. my bad..


----------



## Qu1ckset

Just Ordered 10ft of Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red Tubing









** to replace my pink stained clear tubing! **


----------



## King4x4

Just used it to replace my ORANGE Danger Den (Supposed to be red) tubing in my hydra.

Use a dark dye and it will be bloodshed.


----------



## Jinto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those reservoirs are known to be headaches. Have you tried putting the stock pump top back and just run a simple test on it (outside your rig).


I am attempting to do so in a variety of ways. For example, I am trying to replicate this set up seeing as how I have the same components essentially. My PMP-400 is mounted underneath my Koolance pump top just like in the video.



The port on the left is "out" and on the right is the "in" port. Just like in the video I have the longer piece of tubing submerged in the sink water and the shorter tubing above the water to refill the sink. When I start the pump however, I cannot get the pump to "suck in" the water through the inlet port, it just runs dry. For clarification, I am powering my pump via a spare power supply (PC Power & Cooling 750w) connected to a six port 3-pin fan header module.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> I am attempting to do so in a variety of ways. For example, I am trying to replicate this set up seeing as how I have the same components essentially. My PMP-400 is mounted underneath my Koolance pump top just like in the video.
> 
> The port on the left is "out" and on the right is the "in" port. Just like in the video I have the longer piece of tubing submerged in the sink water and the shorter tubing above the water to refill the sink. When I start the pump however, I cannot get the pump to "suck in" the water through the inlet port, it just runs dry. For clarification, I am powering my pump via a spare power supply (PC Power & Cooling 750w) connected to a six port 3-pin fan header module.


I've noooo idea how it work since the pump is above the level of the water -_-
physics rule: water flow UP to DOWN

Anyway made a build log for my next update








HERE


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Which one did you get?


XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic Reservoir.

At first I was going to go with the black version with nylon body but heard too many horror stories where it comes faultry, and even if it doesn't leak, it could leak in a future, so instead I went for the clear acrylic one.


----------



## EnticingSausage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> I am attempting to do so in a variety of ways. For example, I am trying to replicate this set up seeing as how I have the same components essentially. My PMP-400 is mounted underneath my Koolance pump top just like in the video.
> 
> 
> 
> The port on the left is "out" and on the right is the "in" port. Just like in the video I have the longer piece of tubing submerged in the sink water and the shorter tubing above the water to refill the sink. When I start the pump however, I cannot get the pump to "suck in" the water through the inlet port, it just runs dry. For clarification, I am powering my pump via a spare power supply (PC Power & Cooling 750w) connected to a six port 3-pin fan header module.


You can prime it by sucking on the outlet tube until water is coming out, then cap it with your finger until you lower it back into the water. Thats how I test my pumps


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> I am attempting to do so in a variety of ways. For example, I am trying to replicate this set up seeing as how I have the same components essentially. My PMP-400 is mounted underneath my Koolance pump top just like in the video.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The port on the left is "out" and on the right is the "in" port. Just like in the video I have the longer piece of tubing submerged in the sink water and the shorter tubing above the water to refill the sink. When I start the pump however, I cannot get the pump to "suck in" the water through the inlet port, it just runs dry. For clarification, I am powering my pump via a spare power supply (PC Power & Cooling 750w) connected to a six port 3-pin fan header module.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> You can prime it by sucking on the outlet tube until water is coming out, then cap it with your finger until you lower it back into the water. Thats how I test my pumps
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Yea you're going to need to prime that pump first *Jinto.* It's not just going to suck the water UP, but get it primed first and then you can have that tube going down into the water and it will pull it up once it's flowing.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Just Ordered 10ft of Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red Tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** to replace my pink stained clear tubing! **


So jealous as that's what I want but you can't buy it in the UK yet and to have it shipped from a company in the US is pretty expensive!


----------



## snowfree52

Hi guys, I would like to change my tubing to white aspect and was wondering if it was better to get white tubes or color the liquid in white ?

what are the drawbacks of each ?

thanks


----------



## DeadlyPaperBag

So I understand builds with coolers such as the H100 is accepted? This is what I've got in my 600t







its my first build, hope you guys like what I've done







) any feedback appreciated


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyPaperBag*
> 
> So I understand builds with coolers such as the H100 is accepted? This is what I've got in my 600t
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its my first build, hope you guys like what I've done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) any feedback appreciated






Looks good 600T is still one of my favorite cases.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snowfree52*
> 
> Hi guys, I would like to change my tubing to white aspect and was wondering if it was better to get white tubes or color the liquid in white ?
> 
> what are the drawbacks of each ?
> 
> thanks


It's all about preference really. Some dyes will clog your blocks and the clear tubing can go cloudy over time. When pulled off correctly though, it can look really great. I personally would go for coloured tubing if you'rte going for maximum performance loop.

I'm going with coloured and Mayhems premix X1 as I am going to have a res that will show the colour of the fluid.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeadlyPaperBag*
> 
> So I understand builds with coolers such as the H100 is accepted? This is what I've got in my 600t
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its my first build, hope you guys like what I've done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) any feedback appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good 600T is still one of my favorite cases.
Click to expand...





Nice rig but I'd love to see a custom loop in there instead of the H series. I will be swapping mine out as soon as I can choose my tubing!


----------



## snowfree52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> It's all about preference really. Some dyes will clog your blocks and the clear tubing can go cloudy over time. When pulled off correctly though, it can look really great. I personally would go for coloured tubing if you'rte going for maximum performance loop.


thank you for the answer.

I may actually go for white tubes with blue dye inside since I have plexi reservoir and waterblock.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snowfree52*
> 
> thank you for the answer.
> 
> I may actually go for white tubes with blue dye inside since I have plexi reservoir and waterblock.


I went with color'ed tubes just because I didn't want to have to scrub the blocks down if they become dyed.


----------



## DeadlyPaperBag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Nice rig but I'd love to see a custom loop in there instead of the H series. I will be swapping mine out as soon as I can choose my tubing!


yeah I am going to get a nice custom loop in there soon







just need to figure out my radiator setup, and which ones to get


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyPaperBag*
> 
> yeah I am going to get a nice custom loop in there soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just need to figure out my radiator setup, and which ones to get


For a 600T I would mod the top to fit a nice slim 360 and put a 120 on the rear and 200 in the front. Should be plenty for your setup. 120 Rad space to start then extra 120 for each block is a good method to follow. so 480 would be enough for you even 360 top 120 on the rear.


----------



## DeadlyPaperBag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> For a 600T I would mod the top to fit a nice slim 360 and put a 120 on the rear and 200 in the front. Should be plenty for your setup. 120 Rad space to start then extra 120 for each block is a good method to follow. so 480 would be enough for you even 360 top 120 on the rear.


I've seen the EX360 positioned on top of the case, just below the outside mesh, was kinda hoping I could do the same with my rig







that, along with a back 120 and the sexy 200 in front, seems like a killer setup









was also thinking about a bayres/pump combo, a raystorm cpu block and two heatkiller blocks for my 670s







does this sound good?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyPaperBag*
> 
> I've seen the EX360 positioned on top of the case, just below the outside mesh, was kinda hoping I could do the same with my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that, along with a back 120 and the sexy 200 in front, seems like a killer setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was also thinking about a bayres/pump combo, a raystorm cpu block and two heatkiller blocks for my 670s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does this sound good?


for the 360 mod look here http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=98399

I really like the koolance bay res combo its built extremely well and I like how the pumps are mounted. I would also go with a HK cpu block to match the gpus or the new koolance blocks look extremely nice if your trying to match either Nickel or Copper plating. You might not even need the 200 in the front just upgrade the fan to higher CFM pull air from front and rear and exhaust out the 360 in the top. Unless you are doing heavy overclocking you probably won't need the extra space.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> for the 360 mod look here http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=98399
> 
> I really like the koolance bay res combo its built extremely well and I like how the pumps are mounted. I would also go with a HK cpu block to match the gpus or the new koolance blocks look extremely nice if your trying to match either Nickel or Copper plating. You might not even need the 200 in the front just upgrade the fan to higher CFM pull air from front and rear and exhaust out the 360 in the top. Unless you are doing heavy overclocking you probably won't need the extra space.






Also browse through the 600T thread there is a couple of really great builds in there that where done very well.


----------



## DeadlyPaperBag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Also browse through the 600T thread there is a couple of really great builds in there that where done very well.


great! thank you for your replies







+rep for you my friend


----------



## freitz

Thanks feel free to PM me with any other questions. Before moving to the SM8 I had a 600t only with a 240 rad for the cpu but was considering the 360 mod witha 120 in the rear. Almost pulled the trigger.


----------



## MikeG

Has anybody ever had any problems with the XSPC D5 Vario Pump? My power supply shut down twice this morning with a red fault light and the only thing connected is the 12V to the D5 pump. I don't know whether to RMA the power supply or the pump. I have a Corsair AX860i Platinum power supply. It is working fine at the moment. The problem is so random, it is hard for me to duplicate.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Check for shorts


----------



## MetallicAcid

My shorts are in the drawer.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Double posted my lame joke.


----------



## MikeG

I checked all of the wiring and it is good. Tried wiggling the wires and can't make it fail. It just failed again a few minutes ago when I wasn't looking. If I disconnect the pump and put a different load on the 12V and it still fails, then it's the PS. The pump draws max 3A at 12VDC. I needs something that draws a little more current so I can make it fail.


----------



## Shogon

Hello matching blocks










<3 this block, and the board!

The external rad+res

After another hour of p95 I stopped it, temps didn't change anyways. SO far under 55C for folding, bios reads the vcore as 1.178, cpu-z on load is around 1.288v.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Hello matching blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <3 this block, and the board!
> 
> The external rad+res
> 
> After another hour of p95 I stopped it, temps didn't change anyways. SO far under 55C for folding, bios reads the vcore as 1.178, cpu-z on load is around 1.288v.


LoL somebody else using SilentX fans lol.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> So jealous as that's what I want but you can't buy it in the UK yet and to have it shipped from a company in the US is pretty expensive!


Crooksy have you tried some places here in Australia?

http://www.gammods.com.au/store/

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php

http://www.thekoolroom.com/


----------



## Jinto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnticingSausage*
> 
> You can prime it by sucking on the outlet tube until water is coming out, then cap it with your finger until you lower it back into the water. Thats how I test my pumps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yea you're going to need to prime that pump first *Jinto.* It's not just going to suck the water UP, but get it primed first and then you can have that tube going down into the water and it will pull it up once it's flowing.


Thanks guys, per your advice I got it to work. Now I can confirm my pump is not faulty.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> So jealous as that's what I want but you can't buy it in the UK yet and to have it shipped from a company in the US is pretty expensive!
> 
> 
> 
> Crooksy have you tried some places here in Australia?
> 
> http://www.gammods.com.au/store/
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php
> 
> http://www.thekoolroom.com/
Click to expand...

As Austrailia is further away than the US, I assume it will be equal or even more on shipping. I will have a look at the sites you have suggested though. I appreciate your help


----------



## wermad

Any one using XSPC "SLI bridge" links on their razors?


----------



## NomNomNom

I thought the razors were kinda crapper because of the passive vrm cooling?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> I thought the razors were kinda crapper because of the passive vrm cooling?


Looking at their design, it seems like it doesn't actively cool the vrm piece:



Though i've been told they still perform great







.

edit: Alphacool seems like they passively cool their vrm too:


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looking at their design, it seems like it doesn't actively cool the vrm piece:
> 
> 
> 
> Though i've been told they still perform great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> edit: Alphacool seems like they passively cool their vrm too:


Yeah its just that i enjoy watercooling for its overclocks with low noise, just dont want the vrms limiting me at high voltages


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> there's a few different versions:
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/d5bayres.pdf
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/d5bayres2.pdf
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/twin-d5-bayres.pdf


Speaking of this. Thoughts on this res http://www.xs-pc.com/products/laing-pump-top-reservoir/acrylic-dual-5-25%E2%80%9D-reservoir-for-laing-d5/

Im going to be replacing the nylon one, i just don't like it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Yeah its just that i enjoy watercooling for its overclocks with low noise, just dont want the vrms limiting me at high voltages


True that....you made me think twice now









Anyways, HK and AC are my first choices. They and EK to actively cool the vrm(s). I'm not sure if Koolance does and there's a few pics of them and no internal shots to really conclude that. Guess I'm going with HK or AC. EK...still iffy since I'm not liking the crop circles


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> True that....you made me think twice now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, HK and AC are my first choices. They and EK to actively cool the vrm(s). I'm not sure if Koolance does and there's a few pics of them and no internal shots to really conclude that. Guess I'm going with HK or AC. EK...still iffy since I'm not liking the crop circles


Koolance does actively cool the VRMs. I just put one of my blocks on today! I'll be posting pictures in my log here in a little bit.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## NomNomNom

Yup ac,koolance,hk and ek all actively cool
Vrms


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> True that....you made me think twice now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, HK and AC are my first choices. They and EK to actively cool the vrm(s). I'm not sure if Koolance does and there's a few pics of them and no internal shots to really conclude that. Guess I'm going with HK or AC. EK...still iffy since I'm not liking the crop circles


Ek still has regular non csq versions in stock at PPC if youre talking about 79xx series. Cant see your build as im on mobile sadly


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Ek still has regular non csq versions in stock at PPC if youre talking about 79xx series. Cant see your build as im on mobile sadly


Those are 7950 blocks (and DCII). I know some blocks are flagged 79x0 meaning its for both. Does anyone know if it will fit the reference 7970?

Heading over to coolingconfigurator.com to check out the pcb pics








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Koolance does actively cool the VRMs. I just put one of my blocks on today! I'll be posting pictures in my log here in a little bit.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Did you open her up? I couldn't find any internal pics and the only bottom pics shows a small strip like the XSPC and Alpha:



edit: looks like 7950 blocks will not fit 7970s. Gotta go with the ones flagged as 79x0.

7950:


7970:


----------



## bundymania

My older Little Devil system. I still like it after some years of building many other sys.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those are 7950 blocks (and DCII). I know some blocks are flagged 79x0 meaning its for both. Does anyone know if it will fit the reference 7970?
> 
> Heading over to coolingconfigurator.com to check out the pcb pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you open her up? I couldn't find any internal pics and the only bottom pics shows a small strip like the XSPC and Alpha:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: looks like 7950 blocks will not fit 7970s. Gotta go with the ones flagged as 79x0.
> 
> 7950:
> 
> 
> 7970:


Oh my gosh... I didn't take a picture of the two channels that cool the VRMs.







Totally thought I did... but yes, I did open it up and they are actively cooled by water. The water has to travel through the VRM channel unlike the Alphacool block I believe. If you REALLY want a picture, then I can undo the screws for ya! I got the Koolance one because of the price and that it looks a lot like the MIPs CPU block.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Oh my gosh... I didn't take a picture of the two channels that cool the VRMs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally thought I did... but yes, I did open it up and they are actively cooled by water. The water has to travel through the VRM channel unlike the Alphacool block I believe. If you REALLY want a picture, then I can undo the screws for ya! I got the Koolance one because of the price and that it looks a lot like the MIPs CPU block.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


No worries bud







Ill definitely take your word for it.

Btw, are you running xfire? Can you measure the space between two blocks (one slot in between)? Thanks







Looking to see if I can use my BP d-plugs.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looking at their design, it seems like it doesn't actively cool the vrm piece:
> 
> 
> 
> Though i've been told they still perform great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> edit: Alphacool seems like they passively cool their vrm too:


only brand i know that does have active is heatkiller and select EK's


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No worries bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill definitely take your word for it.
> 
> Btw, are you running xfire? Can you measure the space between two blocks (one slot in between)? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking to see if I can use my BP d-plugs.


Yah, I am. I'll try and do that for you. My motherboard is set up weird lol. It has two PCIe slots then a PCI slot and then three more PCIe slots. ASRock Extreme7 X79 by the way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> only brand i know that does have active is heatkiller and select EK's


Koolance does have active cooling as well, I opened up the block and checked.









Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Yah, I am. I'll try and do that for you. My motherboard is set up weird lol. It has two PCIe slots then a PCI slot and then three more PCIe slots. ASRock Extreme7 X79 by the way.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


If you could, put the first card in pcie #2 and the second one in pcie#3 (pci slot in between). Thanks


----------



## jcamp6336

How does this look for my first setup? Getting some duralene and coolant from another site.

Any thing missing? Ill be cooling a 2600k and a 680 lightning.


----------



## Yakikuze

My watercooled & moded bitfenix prodigy

my wc item
CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm
VGA Block: EK Supremacy Copper Acetal
Pump: EK DCP 4.0
Radiator: EX240 Multiport
Tubing : Masterkleer 7/16" 5/8" Tubing White
Fittings : Bitspower 1/2" barb
Reservoir: EK DCP 4.0 Res Combo

and here is my worklog Monochromos: bitfenix prodigy build


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have the Alphacool 79X0 block and it actively cools the VRM section also.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have the Alphacool 79X0 block and it actively cools the VRM section also.


There are two different models of the Alphacool, one does and one doesn't


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> How does this look for my first setup? Getting some duralene and coolant from another site.
> 
> Any thing missing? Ill be cooling a 2600k and a 680 lightning.


With those rads , pretty sure you can go sli and put both graphics under water
You can even overclock all of the components








Put some picture up when done ...


----------



## Garming

I was wondering if it is safe to run water through the fins to clean out the dust, first time watercooling.


----------



## LayerCakes

Is this too little thermal paste? Need an answer asap as about to reseat CPU thanks x


----------



## driftingforlife

Yea, not enough. A pea sized blob is what you want. I use the x-method for 2011 chips.

Also i just ordered a EK Lighting 680 block from OCUK.


----------



## LayerCakes

Thanks!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velcrowchickensoup*
> 
> Speaking of this. Thoughts on this res http://www.xs-pc.com/products/laing-pump-top-reservoir/acrylic-dual-5-25%E2%80%9D-reservoir-for-laing-d5/
> 
> Im going to be replacing the nylon one, i just don't like it.


Nice, that's the one I ordered, should be here tomorrow or Friday.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Yea, not enough. A pea sized blob is what you want. I use the x-method for 2011 chips.
> 
> Also i just ordered a EK Lighting 680 block from OCUK.


Any particular reason you use the X method for the 3930k? Does it work better than the pea sized dot? It's what I'm using right now.









Should be a fun weekend, within Friday I should be getting 4x Corsair SP-120 High Performance fans and the XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic reservoir, plus I will also change the bottom Swiftech MCR220 rad for a HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240 which a friend gave me, it's brand new too.









Hoping the rad change and the new fans give me a bit of a temperature improvement, I'm using 4x Ultra Kaze 1000RPM on the Swiftch MCR220 rad on the bottom, those fans don't look good for rads, are they? That's why I ordered 4x Corsair SP-120 HP fans.


----------



## driftingforlife

I use it kus there so dam big







I find it works best for me. Will give temps when I get home.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> 
> Is this too little thermal paste? Need an answer asap as about to reseat CPU thanks x


Some guys use the credit card method - put a line on and spread it over with the edge of a credit card.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> 
> Is this too little thermal paste? Need an answer asap as about to reseat CPU thanks x


Yes,you need the TIM to go edge to edge,try more clamping force as well.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> LoL somebody else using SilentX fans lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They move a lot of air, and were pretty cheap when I bought them long ago. Plus with up to 18 fans useable, why not use them all?









Nice case! I went in the opposite direction as you and went for the nice small Fractal design. After my Cosmos II big cases frighten me, who would think plastic could weigh so much.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,you need the TIM to go edge to edge,try more clamping force as well.


That's kinda what mine looks like when you remove the CPU block, I guess once the reservoir and fans arrive I will also re-seat the block with some more tim.


----------



## wermad

I use: rice grain size for my LGA1155. For LGA2011, I used a bit more (~size of small pea).

Always, install and remove to check the smear


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I use: rice grain size for my LGA1155. For LGA2011, I used a bit more (~size of small pea).
> 
> Always, install and remove to check the smear


Remove and re-apply tim or remove and place it back with the tim you already applied?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Remove and re-apply tim or remove and place it back with the tim you already applied?


If the smear isn't good enough, add bit more. As you compress the block/hs, the tim will start to squeeze outwards. If you have tim all over the retention bracket, too much







. You can always use something as a spatula and smear a thin coat on the cpu.


----------



## wermad

Double post (sorry







)

Got a reply on XSPC on a question I had about their Razor sli links. Just wanted to share they are planning to make a link for two and three slots in between. Released within the next 2 weeks (estimated).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,you need the TIM to go edge to edge,try more clamping force as well.
> 
> 
> 
> That's kinda what mine looks like when you remove the CPU block, I guess once the reservoir and fans arrive I will also re-seat the block with some more tim.
Click to expand...

Ideally,you want the whole IHS covered to maximize heat transfer.
You want that layer to be as thin as possible.

I have a sheet of glass that i outline the cpu on,then adjust the amount till I get full coverage,saves on getting the CPU covered in it and having to clean off


----------



## LayerCakes

Lesson of the day:

When draining, do it properly.

The liquid left in my rad after draining just killed a brand new Rampage IV.

Life is so cruel sometimes.


----------



## Canis-X

What happened?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Lesson of the day:
> 
> When draining, do it properly.
> 
> The liquid left in my rad after draining just killed a brand new Rampage IV.
> 
> Life is so cruel sometimes.


You didn't have everything unplugged when you drained?


----------



## wermad

Blow on one of the tube (make a fist closing the tube end and put your lips on your fist). It helps a ton.

Sad to see a RIVE give out. Clean her up and rma it, ? Good luck


----------



## Hokies83

Yah i fill leak test and drain my systems with another Psu nothing is ever plugged in when im doing any of these processes..

You can pick up a cheap generic psu for like 10$ lol.


You can see the corner of it in the bottom right lol think i paid 5$ for it


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You didn't have everything unplugged when you drained?


Everything was unplugged. Yeah..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Blow on one of the tube (make a fist closing the tube end and put your lips on your fist). It helps a ton.
> 
> Sad to see a RIVE give out. Clean her up and rma it, ? Good luck


That's what I did. I might claim it was DOA and send it back to Amazon?


----------



## kcuestag

Bad news store told me Corsair SP-120 fans are out of stock until February 15th due to a major provider delay in Europe. Should I change them to Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM? Those are the ones I have on the top radiator, I like them too.









Edit:

Found a store that has them on stock ,although it's the quiet edition which run atr like 1400rpm, should I go for those?

I was planning on lowering the High Performance speed to around 1200-1400 anyways for noise reduction.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Everything was unplugged. Yeah..
> That's what I did. I might claim it was DOA and send it back to Amazon?


How did it die then? If nothing was receiving power when it got wet and hasn't received power since you should be able to just let it dry our and it would be fine. I've spilled a few drops on my mobo before and just let it dry for a few days and it still works fine


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> How did it die then? If nothing was receiving power when it got wet and hasn't received power since you should be able to just let it dry our and it would be fine. I've spilled a few drops on my mobo before and just let it dry for a few days and it still works fine


10 min dry MB machine XD


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> How did it die then? If nothing was receiving power when it got wet and hasn't received power since you should be able to just let it dry our and it would be fine. I've spilled a few drops on my mobo before and just let it dry for a few days and it still works fine


I didn't think and powered it up after


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> How did it die then? If nothing was receiving power when it got wet and hasn't received power since you should be able to just let it dry our and it would be fine. I've spilled a few drops on my mobo before and just let it dry for a few days and it still works fine
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't think and powered it up after
Click to expand...

PEBKAC


----------



## Canis-X

Oops!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Everything was unplugged. Yeah..
> That's what I did. I might claim it was DOA and send it back to Amazon?


Let it air dry or use a hair blow-dryer (or a heat but very careful). If it doesn't power on, rma it. Right now I would run air only until you can determine what happened to your mb.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Here is a fun video for those asking about different methods of applying thermal paste.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Bad news store told me Corsair SP-120 fans are out of stock until February 15th due to a major provider delay in Europe. Should I change them to Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM? Those are the ones I have on the top radiator, I like them too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Found a store that has them on stock ,although it's the quiet edition which run atr like 1400rpm, should I go for those?
> 
> I was planning on lowering the High Performance speed to around 1200-1400 anyways for noise reduction.


I am using SP Quiets on a NexXxos ST30 doing the job and you can't hear them. In my mind there is no space for noise in watercooling so plug some quiet edition and let them be at full speed.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> I am using SP Quiets on a NexXxos ST30 doing the job and you can't hear them. In my mind there is no space for noise in watercooling so plug some quiet edition and let them be at full speed.


How do you like that ST30? I've been looking into radiators for when I finish building my case and I'm torn on which 480 radiator to get. I've looked at Martin's test results and Bundymania's test results, which seem to vary quite a bit. I'm not going to be running my fans any higher than ~1400rpm at full load, and at that speed and lower Martin has the ST30 right up near the top. It even out performs the XT45 an UT60 at very low speeds.


----------



## dmanstasiu

In which area do they differ?


----------



## morencyam

It could just be that Martin is reporting watts disipated at certain speeds and Bundy reports Delta T, but at 1400rpm Martin has the ST30 in 6th place just barely behind the rx360 and Bundy has it all the way down at 16, 4 spots behind the rx360. Martin also couldn't replicate the ex360 performing better than the rx360. It could just be the testing method use too


----------



## dmanstasiu

Are they using the same fans for testing? If one fan has a higher static pressure, it could be causing performance differences based on the fin density


----------



## dmanstasiu

HUDDLER,
WAT R U DOIN
HUDDLER
STAHP

GO HOME HUDDLER, YOU'RE DRUNK


----------



## megawatz

It seems like clubs work best when you're trying to figure out what to do...creating a thread in here almost seems pointless, very few people help you out in a new thread. So, here's the skinny. I need to order parts...today.

*Here's what I have:*
Swiftech MCR320 "Quiet Power" Triple 120mm Radiator
Swiftech MCP35X Pump attached to the end of it with compression fittings (unknown size)

*Here's what I'm thinking about getting (Semi-budget):*
XSPC Raystorm CPU Block - 1155
XSPC 5.25" Res Bay
3/8" Tubing - UV Blue or Clear
barbs (i'm guessing for 3/8" ID tubing

Thoughts?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Are they using the same fans for testing? If one fan has a higher static pressure, it could be causing performance differences based on the fin density


Good point. Don't know why I didn't think of that







I think Martin is using Titans, which I believe he said are similar to GTs, and Bundy used Phobya Nano-G


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> It seems like clubs work best when you're trying to figure out what to do...creating a thread in here almost seems pointless, very few people help you out in a new thread. So, here's the skinny. I need to order parts...today.
> 
> *Here's what I have:*
> Swiftech MCR320 "Quiet Power" Triple 120mm Radiator
> Swiftech MCP35X Pump attached to the end of it with compression fittings (unknown size)
> 
> *Here's what I'm thinking about getting (Semi-budget):*
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block - 1155
> XSPC 5.25" Res Bay
> 3/8" Tubing - UV Blue or Clear
> barbs (i'm guessing for 3/8" ID tubing
> 
> Thoughts?


That all seems good to go. If you're looking at Clear tubing, go for Duralene. Most reliable tubing no plasticizer issues.

And yes, I'm assuming you're getting 3/8" ID 5/8" OD so you'd be looking at 5/8" Barbs.

Why the bay res? If you don't mind me asking ... from my experience, cylinder reservoirs are cheaper (And I find them prettier







)

Also, how are you planning to mount the pump directly to the radiator? It's best to have the pump fed by the reservoir
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Are they using the same fans for testing? If one fan has a higher static pressure, it could be causing performance differences based on the fin density
> 
> 
> 
> Good point. Don't know why I didn't think of that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think Martin is using Titans, which I believe he said are similar to GTs, and Bundy used Phobya Nano-G
Click to expand...

Heheh you never know man. I'm just throwing a hypothesis out there


----------



## superericla

Why would he get 5/8" barbs for tubing with a 3/8" I'D? That would take a lot of stretching on the tubing.


----------



## megawatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> That all seems good to go. If you're looking at Clear tubing, go for Duralene. Most reliable tubing no plasticizer issues.
> 
> And yes, I'm assuming you're getting 3/8" ID 5/8" OD so you'd be looking at 5/8" Barbs.
> 
> Why the bay res? If you don't mind me asking ... from my experience, cylinder reservoirs are cheaper (And I find them prettier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Also, how are you planning to mount the pump directly to the radiator? It's best to have the pump fed by the reservoir
> Heheh you never know man. I'm just throwing a hypothesis out there


The pump is hooked directly to the rad, don't know why, but here's a pic:


and I saw some cylinder reservoirs, one specific to the 35X pump that I have, I think I like those better, but don't know which route to go. That's why I'm asking the experienced community help me out by getting this watercooling project going.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> It seems like clubs work best when you're trying to figure out what to do...creating a thread in here almost seems pointless, very few people help you out in a new thread. So, here's the skinny. I need to order parts...today.
> 
> *Here's what I have:*
> Swiftech MCR320 "Quiet Power" Triple 120mm Radiator
> Swiftech MCP35X Pump attached to the end of it with compression fittings (unknown size)
> 
> *Here's what I'm thinking about getting (Semi-budget):*
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block - 1155
> XSPC 5.25" Res Bay
> 3/8" Tubing - UV Blue or Clear
> barbs (i'm guessing for 3/8" ID tubing
> 
> Thoughts?


I have a xspc dual bay res pump combo if you wanna buy


----------



## megawatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I have a xspc dual bay res pump combo if you wanna buy


That would defeat the purpose of having the MCP35X pump then, I got it used for a steal, and wanted to use it.

Plus, due to the (IMHO Stupid) Rep system and selling, I can't post anything.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Heheh you never know man. I'm just throwing a hypothesis out there


I hope that's the case. I'm leaning toward getting the ST30 right now since it has such a good price to performance ratio at the speed I'm going to be running. That, paired with a Thermochill PA120.4 should make a nice quiet rig with plenty of cooling power.


----------



## megawatz

What do you guys think?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> What do you guys think?


Where is your pump?


----------



## megawatz

See previous posts, I have a MCP35X


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Why would he get 5/8" barbs for tubing with a 3/8" I'D? That would take a lot of stretching on the tubing.


I was thinking the clamps, my bad

I just use compression fittings for everything


----------



## LayerCakes

Do Asus check for water damage?

Also, could and damage have been done to my CPU or GPUs?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> What do you guys think?


Barb fittings?


----------



## megawatz

It's worth it to spend double the money?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Bad news store told me Corsair SP-120 fans are out of stock until February 15th due to a major provider delay in Europe. Should I change them to Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM? Those are the ones I have on the top radiator, I like them too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Found a store that has them on stock ,although it's the quiet edition which run atr like 1400rpm, should I go for those?
> 
> I was planning on lowering the High Performance speed to around 1200-1400 anyways for noise reduction.


I admit that I'm biased towards Scythe GT's, but since you are already using some, and like them too, it makes sense to go with the GT's.
You then have a full range of speeds to run them at, like the existing ones.
Besides, then they'll match


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Yea, not enough. A pea sized blob is what you want. I use the x-method for 2011 chips.
> 
> Also i just ordered a EK Lighting 680 block from OCUK.


Just wondering, are you not worried about EK's nickel issues? I don't know if it's still happening but I've read that they're still pretty shoddy and worth sticking to the copper alternatives? What's your view on it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Do Asus check for water damage?
> 
> Also, could and damage have been done to my CPU or GPUs?


Best bet is to get her as dry as possible. Obviously if they find water you may have sunk your own boat. Try to get the mb dry, test it, if no go, submit an rma ticket and wait for their response. I would omit anything regarding water in your comments/description of the issue.

Are you using plain water or colored/dyed liquid?


----------



## driftingforlife

There is no copper version. Also they have fixed the problem. To be honest I couldn't care less, I only got it to do a 7970 vs 680 and I wanted to keep the make of blocks the same.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> It's worth it to spend double the money?


I would say compression fittings are worth it. I personally just feel safer with them. There are some great looking barb builds thats actually look better because the tubing looks like it almost goes right into the block.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> It's worth it to spend double the money?


Well u can find cheap comp fittings 3$ each frozen cpu / sidewinder computers performancepcs etc.

You can pull a hose off a clamped barb fitting but u can not budge a hose off a screwed all the way down comp fitting.

And all it really takes for a brab fitting to leak is for the hose to get bump and get turned at an angle.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> How do you like that ST30? I've been looking into radiators for when I finish building my case and I'm torn on which 480 radiator to get. I've looked at Martin's test results and Bundymania's test results, which seem to vary quite a bit. I'm not going to be running my fans any higher than ~1400rpm at full load, and at that speed and lower Martin has the ST30 right up near the top. It even out performs the XT45 an UT60 at very low speeds.










That's exactly the reason why I have chosen Nexxxos, needed a slim 360 Low-fpi rad to pair with quiet fans for the top of my 600t. Its dedicated on cooling an i5-3570K (D5/Raystorm - rig under construction) and its doing a good job keeping a Delta T of ~7celcius on stock clock speed.

When I was searching for fans I considered buying some high performance ones just for the extra headroom, but then in reality this particular rad can't be benefited from the extra airflow (even if there is the need) and you have to constantly tweak the fan controller searching for the sweat spot thus quiet edition it is.


----------



## wermad

Avoid the TFC compression fittings. they are really horrible and don't have any tolerances for tubes (even if its the correct id/od).

Phobya makes good compression fittings and they're priced very well. If you can spend a bit more, Enzotech, Alphacool, and EK are great too. Skip XSPC, its really an ok fitting but I would recommend something better (like this mentioned before).


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Avoid the TFC compression fittings. they are really horrible and don't have any tolerances for tubes (even if its the correct id/od).
> 
> Phobya makes good compression fittings and they're priced very well. If you can spend a bit more, Enzotech, Alphacool, and EK are great too. Skip XSPC, its really an ok fitting but I would recommend something better (like this mentioned before).


mmmm Bitspower... Grrrr light wallet..


----------



## megawatz

I've decided that this is not for me...yet. While cool and beneficial, I definitely need more time to think this over.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> I've decided that this is not for me...yet. While cool and beneficial, I definitely need more time to think this over.


Get an XSPC rasa/raystorm kit. Good way to get started if you're not ready to put together a loop. All components are off the shelve pieces you can buy separately and/or upgrade


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> I've decided that this is not for me...yet. While cool and beneficial, I definitely need more time to think this over.


Think more. I love my loop but it's burned through my wallet ... I have a cart at PPCS ready to go with GPU + Blocks, some fittings, a fan, a temp probe ... too many things


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> I've decided that this is not for me...yet. While cool and beneficial, I definitely need more time to think this over.


That rad/pump combo u have id say would be a highly wanted item should be easy to sell.

I Would diff go thru with the water loop...

If u need to save afew bucks look in the OCN market place cooling section there is lots of stuff.


----------



## dmanstasiu

I can help you out with a CPU block + 120mm rad


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Avoid the TFC compression fittings. they are really horrible and don't have any tolerances for tubes (even if its the correct id/od).
> 
> Phobya makes good compression fittings and they're priced very well. If you can spend a bit more, Enzotech, Alphacool, and EK are great too. Skip XSPC, its really an ok fitting but I would recommend something better (like this mentioned before).


I have nothing but good things to say about monsoon fittings.


----------



## megawatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> That rad/pump combo u have id say would be a highly wanted item should be easy to sell.
> 
> I Would diff go thru with the water loop...
> 
> If u need to save afew bucks look in the OCN market place cooling section there is lots of stuff.


Too bad I can't sell on here. -_-

Maybe it's that I don't really see the true benefits of water cooling when my temps don't go about 65c on an i5-3570K.

Yes, cooler is better, but my vCore already sucks and I can't really push my CPU much more without venturing into 1.5v territory


----------



## dmanstasiu

I've heard they had some trouble fitting ... but I think that was related to the tubing companies having a wide tolerance for tubing wall size. i.e ±10%
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> That rad/pump combo u have id say would be a highly wanted item should be easy to sell.
> 
> I Would diff go thru with the water loop...
> 
> If u need to save afew bucks look in the OCN market place cooling section there is lots of stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad I can't sell on here. -_-
> 
> Maybe it's that I don't really see the true benefits of water cooling when my temps don't go about 65c on an i5-3570K.
> 
> Yes, cooler is better, but my vCore already sucks and I can't really push my CPU much more without venturing into 1.5v territory
Click to expand...

That's the point of watercooling, to allow you to venture into 1.5v territory


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I use: rice grain size for my LGA1155. For LGA2011, I used a bit more (~size of small pea).
> 
> Always, install and remove to check the smear


Agreed.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> I've decided that this is not for me...yet. While cool and beneficial, I definitely need more time to think this over.


Take your time with it, there is no rush.

I considered watercooling I think it was early 2010 but was discouraged because of all the "work" I suppose and the fact I've never dabbled with liquid, tubing, pumps, blocks, or rads at all. It wasn't until the end of that year I finally decided to plunge in, and I felt it was the perfect time.

When you feel right, take the dive in the pool!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> How did it die then? If nothing was receiving power when it got wet and hasn't received power since you should be able to just let it dry our and it would be fine. I've spilled a few drops on my mobo before and just let it dry for a few days and it still works fine


Yea I've had a nice puddle on my 690 and 580 at times when something came astray in my loop, but it never short circuited or ruined either card in any way.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Avoid the TFC compression fittings. they are really horrible and don't have any tolerances for tubes (even if its the correct id/od).
> 
> Phobya makes good compression fittings and they're priced very well. If you can spend a bit more, Enzotech, Alphacool, and EK are great too. Skip XSPC, its really an ok fitting but I would recommend something better (like this mentioned before).


Damn i bought a ton of those TFC fittings to use later on


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well u can find cheap comp fittings 3$ each frozen cpu / sidewinder computers performancepcs etc.
> 
> You can pull a hose off a clamped barb fitting but u can not budge a hose off a screwed all the way down comp fitting.
> 
> And all it really takes for a brab fitting to leak is for the hose to get bump and get turned at an angle.


A non-stubby barb + clamp is more secure than any compression fitting. Especially if you are using larger tubing like 1/2" ID 5/8" OD.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A non-stubby barb + clamp is more secure than any compression fitting. Especially if you are using larger tubing like 1/2" ID 5/8" OD.


I can pull the tube off the barb with my hand.. "long barb" i could not get the same line off my Bitspower comp with 2 ppl with channel locks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Damn i bought a ton of those TFC fittings to use later on


Sell them









I sold them quickly. Another member had the same issues I did and promptly sold them too. Its not worth the hassle imho.

Alphacool is my first choice. Not too expensive and not cheaply made.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A non-stubby barb + clamp is more secure than any compression fitting. Especially if you are using larger tubing like 1/2" ID 5/8" OD.


I feel like any compression fitting is more secure than a barb + plastic clamp though. Those things are cheap and do not stay shut...

PS: y u no answer my pms







? <3


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sell them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sold them quickly. Another member had the same issues I did and promptly sold them too. Its not worth the hassle imho.
> 
> Alphacool is my first choice. Not too expensive and not cheaply made.


Yah they look just like Bitspower fittings.... But i was un able to find 1/2 ID 3/4 OD in Alphacool fittings =[


----------



## dmanstasiu

JUST GET BITSPOWER. They're sexy.

Or Monsoon carbon fiber


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Best bet is to get her as dry as possible. Obviously if they find water you may have sunk your own boat. Try to get the mb dry, test it, if no go, submit an rma ticket and wait for their response. I would omit anything regarding water in your comments/description of the issue.
> 
> Are you using plain water or colored/dyed liquid?


I'm using a premixed coloured coolant,


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yah they look just like Bitspower fittings.... But i was un able to find 1/2 ID 3/4 OD in Alphacool fittings =[


That's weird because I remember them having some.

Runs in mine builds 3/8 x 5/8, no problems finding them







.


----------



## King4x4

Whats wrong with XSPC ones? They hold tight on the hoses and are a pain to remove after! Not to mention they are pretty low profile and can fit in any location.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I'm using a premixed coloured coolant,


just make sure there's no residue or stains on the mb. You can use a bit of rubbing alcohol to clean it up. You just want to make sure there's no evidence of liquid on there or you can expect a quick rma refusal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Whats wrong with XSPC ones? They hold tight on the hoses and are a pain to remove after! Not to mention they are pretty low profile and can fit in any location.


I bent a couple trying to tighten them with a coin (US nickel). I prefer the body to have a grip on them. I know why xspc puts notch on the threads: most likely your gonna unscrew the hole thing while trying to remove the top. The notch helps it unscrew the cap. Just bandaids on a half-baked design. Well, I guess it was done with their mantra of making it as cost effective as possible. I got my Enzotechs on sale and I'm really happy with them


----------



## Alex132

I have some Lamptron black luminum clamps, they're amazingly tight and blend right it.

I am such an idiot though, when I ordered all my stuff I completely forgot about comp. fittings, I much prefer their look xD


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> just make sure there's no residue or stains on the mb. You can use a bit of rubbing alcohol to clean it up. You just want to make sure there's no evidence of liquid on there or you can expect a quick rma refusal.


Well with any luck when I take my board and cpu out of the dryer in 24 hours and put it on my test bench, it will magically work


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I can pull the tube off the barb with my hand.. "long barb" i could not get the same line off my Bitspower comp with 2 ppl with channel locks.


What tubing and barbs? I've been using barbs without clamps for 5 years and haven't had a leak.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Well with any luck when I take my board and cpu out of the dryer in 24 hours and put it on my test bench, it will magically work


Cool









Make sure to test as much as possible and run stability tests. Good luck


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megawatz*
> 
> The pump is hooked directly to the rad, don't know why, but here's a pic:
> 
> 
> and I saw some cylinder reservoirs, one specific to the 35X pump that I have, I think I like those better, but don't know which route to go. That's why I'm asking the experienced community help me out by getting this watercooling project going.


It's a Swiftech MCR-X20 You can buy them with or without the pump. With pump, the triple rad is $170 new. It also is available in dual rad. Any of Swiftechs' MCP3 series pumps will fit.

http://www.swiftech.com/mcr-x20-drive-rev3.aspx


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I can pull the tube off the barb with my hand.. "long barb" i could not get the same line off my Bitspower comp with 2 ppl with channel locks.
> 
> 
> 
> What tubing and barbs? I've been using barbs without clamps for 5 years and haven't had a leak.
Click to expand...

This.

You must have an odd fitting size,odd tube size or blessed with an over developed right arm.....


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> I am using SP Quiets on a NexXxos ST30 doing the job and you can't hear them. In my mind there is no space for noise in watercooling so plug some quiet edition and let them be at full speed.


Thanks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I admit that I'm biased towards Scythe GT's, but since you are already using some, and like them too, it makes sense to go with the GT's.
> You then have a full range of speeds to run them at, like the existing ones.
> Besides, then they'll match


The Scythe GT's are great, I considered the SP-120's because of their aesthetics, look much better, and I'd like the red frame to match with my tubing.









I was considering buying 2x Dual Packs (4 fans) plus a 5th separate fan, so I could run the following:

- Top 360 rad with 3x Scythe GT on pull and 3x SP-120's on push
- Bottom 240 with 2x Scythe GT on push and 2x SP-120's on pull

That way only the SP-120's would be vissible.









Would that be okay or would it cause any kind of negative impact since they're different fans?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I can pull the tube off the barb with my hand.. "long barb" i could not get the same line off my Bitspower comp with 2 ppl with channel locks.
> 
> 
> 
> What tubing and barbs? I've been using barbs without clamps for 5 years and haven't had a leak.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This.
> 
> You must have an odd fitting size,odd tube size or *blessed with an over developed right arm.....*
Click to expand...


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to test as much as possible and run stability tests. Good luck


What do you think of this? Here's exactly what happened:
-Drained loop, took out all tubing
-put solvent on the cpu to clean of old TIM
-polished the top of the cpu with a dremmel
-changed the cpu block and flipped over the rad fans some excess water dripped out of the rad at this point
-thought nothing of it and moped it up
-refilled loop, bled, etc
-plugged everything in, booted up
-pc posted with 'overclocking failed' message
-reset, posted and booted in to windows
-when I got in to windows, my screen was white with loads of artifacts.
-first thought was dead gpu.
-did a fresh driver install, nothing changed
-reset pc and tried with a different GPU,
-this time no post, motherboard gave errors of 0C
-tried again and got an error of 00
-kept trying and then the pc went in to a boot cycle where it would power up, then cut out after half a second before starting again 3 seconds later.


----------



## wermad

You have someone that can lend you an x79 mb or lga2011 cpu to test?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> You must have an odd fitting size,odd tube size or blessed with an over developed right arm.....


Nope normal Arm i can not re member the tube size / barb they were bought 5 years ago and the tubeing is the tubing i used with those barbs with little force i can pull it right out..

But i could just be abit stronger then you two...
However i can not pull it out of my Bitspower comp fittings with 2 people with channel locks to the point the tubing is stretching where u feel it may rip or something.

Same as it did when it was new.. i do however think the barbs are the long enzotech dbl barbs.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Just a tip for anyone wanting to run clamp-less - get yourself some of those really cheap, black, "plastic" fittings. The plastic of the fitting and the tubing practically bond to each other lol I've been using the same two chunks of tubing to and from my CPU block now for 3+ years, and the fittings have never been separated from the tube. I just spin the tubing+fitting out for a cleaning, spin it back afterwords. Never had a leak. Plus, they are cheap, and look good since they are black and basically disappear into the build once installed with some nice tubing.


----------



## DatNetherbane

Just finished my build, hope it qualifies!


----------



## dmanstasiu

Monsta rad on the bottom ... which rad on the rear fan slot?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You have someone that can lend you an x79 mb or lga2011 cpu to test?


Unfortunately not. Most of my friends can't affordhigh end. They're all using FX 4100's and HD 6850's


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> What do you think of this? Here's exactly what happened:
> -Drained loop, took out all tubing
> -put solvent on the cpu to clean of old TIM
> -polished the top of the cpu with a dremmel
> -changed the cpu block and flipped over the rad fans some excess water dripped out of the rad at this point
> -thought nothing of it and moped it up
> -refilled loop, bled, etc
> -plugged everything in, booted up
> -pc posted with 'overclocking failed' message
> -reset, posted and booted in to windows
> -when I got in to windows, my screen was white with loads of artifacts.
> -first thought was dead gpu.
> -did a fresh driver install, nothing changed
> -reset pc and tried with a different GPU,
> -this time no post, motherboard gave errors of 0C
> -tried again and got an error of 00
> -kept trying and then the pc went in to a boot cycle where it would power up, then cut out after half a second before starting again 3 seconds later.


Umm hate to say this, but if it really was just a little bit of water and you cleaned it up I think you may have hurt your CPU somehow with the polishing you did. You said you changed the CPU block? Does the new one have good contact? Only other thing I can think of is you somehow did not get all the water off the board, maybe some in a PCIe slot or something similar. I would stop trying to boot it until you are 100% sure there is no water.

I have spilled tons of water onto and into most every component of my system and letting/getting it dry always does the trick.

GL


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Nope normal Arm i can not re member the tube size / barb they were bought 5 years ago and the tubeing is the tubing i used with those barbs with little force i can pull it right out..
> 
> But i could just be abit stronger then you two...
> However i can not pull it out of my Bitspower comp fittings with 2 people with channel locks to the point the tubing is stretching where u feel it may rip or something.
> 
> Same as it did when it was new.. i do however think the barbs are the long enzotech dbl barbs.


With Primoflex LRT 3/8" ID 5/8" OD paired w/ Bitspower BP-MBWP-C02 3/8" fittings. No clamps. CPU block mounted on the motherboard. If I were to pull on the tubing as hard as I could, the motherboard would crack in half before the tubing came off. Being totally serious here. Pretty much the only way to get the tubing off is by wiggling it back and forth while holding the CPU block in place to avoid cracking the board.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Unfortunately not. Most of my friends can't affordhigh end. They're all using FX 4100's and HD 6850's


can you get in the bios?

Btw, as Num1 said, did you polish as in trying to lap the cpu?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Umm hate to say this, but if it really was just a little bit of water and you cleaned it up I think you may have hurt your CPU somehow with the polishing you did. You said you changed the CPU block? Does the new one have good contact? Only other thing I can think of is you somehow did not get all the water off the board, maybe some in a PCIe slot or something similar. I would stop trying to boot it until you are 100% sure there is no water.
> 
> I have spilled tons of water onto and into most every component of my system and letting/getting it dry always does the trick.
> 
> GL


I don't think the polishing would have hurt it. I didn't even take the cpu out of the board for this.

When I did take it out later though, I did find solvent on the underside where the pins are. This must have been an over flow from when I cleaned it. Could it be something to.do with that?

Either way I'm borrowing another board from Amazon (shh







) which will let me test the CPU. If it works, I'll claim the second one I ordered was doa and put the one that got wet in the box :L


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I don't think the polishing would have hurt it. I didn't even take the cpu out of the board for this.
> 
> When I did take it out later though, I did find solvent on the underside where the pins are. This must have been an over flow from when I cleaned it. Could it be something to.do with that?
> 
> *Either way I'm borrowing another board from Amazon (shh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) which will let me test the CPU. If it works, I'll claim the second one I ordered was doa and put the one that got wet in the box :L*


hehehe, I've done this "rma" process in the past







. Some retailers don't care and will just refund you or exchange it.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> hehehe, I've done this "rma" process in the past
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Some retailers don't care and will just refund you or exchange it.


Well this board and cpu are both within their 30 day return window still


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

While I can certainly understand trying to get away with whatever you can, I wouldn't condone or openly admit to doing that sort of thing here on OCN. It's definitely not Amazon's fault you got water on the board....


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You have someone that can lend you an x79 mb or lga2011 cpu to test?
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately not. Most of my friends can't affordhigh end. They're all using FX 4100's and HD 6850's
Click to expand...

my friends all have pre-built. Consider yourself lucky


----------



## nleksan

I am actually having trouble typing this as I've spent the day tubing my loop (hmm...why does that sound weird? lol), and I only use Bitspower and Monsoon; actually, I do have a few Swiftech Lok-Seal Fittings and XSPC Compressions&Extensions although the XSPC have not been needed yet. More specifically, in my loop there are: Bitspower Angled Rotary Compressions (45deg Dual-Rotary and 90deg Triple-Rotary) and Angled Rotary Adapters (45deg Single, 90deg Single, 90deg Dual), Male-Male Rotary Couplers, "No-Twist" Rotary Extensions, Ball Valve Stop Fitting, Bulkhead Fill-Port G1/4-inner thread and a few others; Monsoon 1/2x3/4 Matte Black compression fittings and a few Black Chrome comps; Swiftech Matte-Black 15mm Extension Fittings, "T"-block Fitting, "X"-block Fitting, and maybe some that I forget.
I still have, left over, quite a bit... At least 25-30 different misc fittings; thinking of using some of the Swiftech Lok-Seal Variable-Length SLI/CFX fittings to eliminate the need for tubing in one or two areas with very short runs...

Anyway, as far as "most tightly-gripping compression fittings", I'd rank them as:
BEST: Bitspower
2nd Place: XSPC
3rd Place: Monsoon

The Monsoon fittings are also a HUGE PITA to get the threads (the compression onto the barb) to line-up with the tubing in place; I've just about shot a few of them out of frustration!

The new PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing does seem to be a bit more difficult to get over the fittings' barbs than the PRO LRT, Duralene, MasterKleer, or XSPC tubing. In fact, it was so difficult at first that I thought I'd gotten the wrong size, like the box had been mislabeled or something! Finally was able to get it over a Bitspower 45deg rotary comp's barb, and have been putting the tubing onto the fittings' barbs for 30-60min (letting it sit) to stretch it out enough to make it possible to get it on in the tighter confines of a case.

I have been having a [email protected]#ch of a time with one particular area of my loop (from the EK Multioption X2 150 res top outlet to the XSPC Single Bay Res inlet), and have probably 6-7 pieces of tubing that I cut that were JUST the wrong size by a few millimeters (ARGH!). And, of course, the Monsoon fittings won't tighten because the threads won't catch!

Anyway, during my frustration I wanted to see just how strong the different fittings were, and the Bitspower are literally IMPOSSIBLE to pull the tubing out of without ripping it. Same with the XSPC. The Monsoon will hold on quite well, but given enough force, the tubing WILL come out.


----------



## dmanstasiu

If you decide to sell all those misc. 1/2 x 3/4 fittings, let me know


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> While I can certainly understand trying to get away with whatever you can, I wouldn't condone or openly admit to doing that sort of thing here on OCN. It's definitely not Amazon's fault you got water on the board....


^This.

It's really sad to see people doing that, it's your mistake on frying the board, don't blame it on it being DoA..


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I am actually having trouble typing this as I've spent the day tubing my loop (hmm...why does that sound weird? lol), and I only use Bitspower and Monsoon; actually, I do have a few Swiftech Lok-Seal Fittings and XSPC Compressions&Extensions although the XSPC have not been needed yet. More specifically, in my loop there are: Bitspower Angled Rotary Compressions (45deg Dual-Rotary and 90deg Triple-Rotary) and Angled Rotary Adapters (45deg Single, 90deg Single, 90deg Dual), Male-Male Rotary Couplers, "No-Twist" Rotary Extensions, Ball Valve Stop Fitting, Bulkhead Fill-Port G1/4-inner thread and a few others; Monsoon 1/2x3/4 Matte Black compression fittings and a few Black Chrome comps; Swiftech Matte-Black 15mm Extension Fittings, "T"-block Fitting, "X"-block Fitting, and maybe some that I forget.
> I still have, left over, quite a bit... At least 25-30 different misc fittings; thinking of using some of the Swiftech Lok-Seal Variable-Length SLI/CFX fittings to eliminate the need for tubing in one or two areas with very short runs...
> 
> Anyway, as far as "most tightly-gripping compression fittings", I'd rank them as:
> BEST: Bitspower
> 2nd Place: XSPC
> 3rd Place: Monsoon
> 
> The Monsoon fittings are also a HUGE PITA to get the threads (the compression onto the barb) to line-up with the tubing in place; I've just about shot a few of them out of frustration!
> 
> *The new PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing does seem to be a bit more difficult to get over the fittings' barbs* than the PRO LRT, Duralene, MasterKleer, or XSPC tubing. In fact, it was so difficult at first that I thought I'd gotten the wrong size, like the box had been mislabeled or something! Finally was able to get it over a Bitspower 45deg rotary comp's barb, and have been putting the tubing onto the fittings' barbs for 30-60min (letting it sit) to stretch it out enough to make it possible to get it on in the tighter confines of a case.
> 
> I have been having a [email protected]#ch of a time with one particular area of my loop (from the EK Multioption X2 150 res top outlet to the XSPC Single Bay Res inlet), and have probably 6-7 pieces of tubing that I cut that were JUST the wrong size by a few millimeters (ARGH!). And, of course, the Monsoon fittings won't tighten because the threads won't catch!
> 
> Anyway, during my frustration I wanted to see just how strong the different fittings were, and the Bitspower are literally IMPOSSIBLE to pull the tubing out of without ripping it. Same with the XSPC. The Monsoon will hold on quite well, but given enough force, the tubing WILL come out.


omg i chewed my thumbs up trying to close and thread my bitspower fittings on my PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing!!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> omg i chewed my thumbs up trying to close and thread my bitspower fittings on my PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing!!


Same tubing and fittings the secret lol...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Same tubing and fittings the secret lol...


No thanks, don't want scratches all over my fittings.

I prefer some spanking new clean Gloves (Hyflex)



Spoiler: Gloves!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Well this board and cpu are both within their 30 day return window still


Doesn't hurt. At worst, they'll just say no







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> While I can certainly understand trying to get away with whatever you can, I wouldn't condone or openly admit to doing that sort of thing here on OCN. It's definitely not Amazon's fault you got water on the board....


Keep in mind some retailers (most notably, newegg) will flat out deny you after they inspect it and determine a user created problem. Even still, someone's honest mistake can still be addressed by a retailer who would rather please the customer or help them as best as possible. When there's a blatant and obvious mistake, then its up to your moral compass (and intelligent capacity) whether or not to pursue even if there's a chance you may or may not get help. Newegg used to take in rma even if was a user created error but then they got really tight on this and pretty much have stopped. I understand them; they're a small company and it could hurt them. But large retailers and companies like Amazon and Corsair have the capacity to go above and beyond (at their discretion) to help the customer even if the customer created the problem. I chopped up my 800D doors and I asked for replacements. Corsair sent them for free









If you don't agree with it, just don't get involved. I'm sure all of us have attempted to warrant a product that was defectively caused by the ourselves. *How many "failed because of oc" threads have appeared and most all will respond to rma it?* Should we stop suggesting this because your judgement is no aligned with others (not necessarily correct or wrong)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> ^This.
> 
> It's really sad to see people doing that, it's your mistake on frying the board, *don't blame it on it being DoA*..


I do agree with part of your argument (bold) but how is it sad for someone to exercise their right to warranty even if they caused the mistake? Amazon will determine whether or not to provide help. I would just say it simply stopped working (Amazon has a drop down selector and "defective" is one of them). I've done the rma process with amazon with products that have arrived defective and became defective.

In the end, I think LayerCakes may have chosen the inappropriate words but her intentions are good and we should help her out as best as possible and not make her day worse


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sell them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sold them quickly. Another member had the same issues I did and promptly sold them too. Its not worth the hassle imho.
> 
> Alphacool is my first choice. Not too expensive and not cheaply made.


I was thinking of just wrapping over the barb with electrical tape to make it mnore snug with the tubing. Apparently it worked for someone.


----------



## KaRLiToS

.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> I was thinking of just wrapping over the barb with electrical tape to make it mnore snug with the tubing. Apparently it worked for someone.


Sometimes, its the tube that makes it a pita to install. I went from Primochill LRT to Duralene and though both are marketed as 3/8x5/8, the Duralene is super easy to fit. The primochill is finger busting pita. Even the BP fittings I have struggled to grab the threads.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> No thanks, don't want scratches all over my fittings.


----------



## wermad

I can actually turn my tops almost all the way through with Duralene. The primochill was only a few twists if I was lucky to grab the threads







.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Doesn't hurt. At worst, they'll just say no
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind some retailers (most notably, newegg) will flat out deny you after they inspect it and determine a user created problem. Even still, someone's honest mistake can still be addressed by a retailer who would rather please the customer or help them as best as possible. When there's a blatant and obvious mistake, then its up to your moral compass (and intelligent capacity) whether or not to pursue even if there's a chance you may or may not get help. Newegg used to take in rma even if was a user created error but then they got really tight on this and pretty much have stopped. I understand them; they're a small company and it could hurt them. But large retailers and companies like Amazon and Corsair have the capacity to go above and beyond (at their discretion) to help the customer even if the customer created the problem. I chopped up my 800D doors and I asked for replacements. Corsair sent them for free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't agree with it, just don't get involved. I'm sure all of us have attempted to warrant a product that was defectively caused by the ourselves. *How many "failed because of oc" threads have appeared and most all will respond to rma it?* Should we stop suggesting this because your judgement is no aligned with others (not necessarily correct or wrong)?
> I do agree with part of your argument (bold) but how is it sad for someone to exercise their right to warranty even if they caused the mistake? Amazon will determine whether or not to provide help. I would just say it simply stopped working (Amazon has a drop down selector and "defective" is one of them). I've done the rma process with amazon with products that have arrived defective and became defective.
> 
> In the end, I think LayerCakes may have chosen the inappropriate words but her intentions are good and we should help her out as best as possible and not make her day worse


Don't get me wrong, I understand that us poor computer geeks have far less capacity to sustain the monetary loss of a $300 board than a billion dollar company like Amazon. I'm just saying don't come on here and openly admit to fraud on OCN. That's against TOS...


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> I am using SP Quiets on a NexXxos ST30 doing the job and you can't hear them. In my mind there is no space for noise in watercooling so plug some quiet edition and let them be at full speed.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I admit that I'm biased towards Scythe GT's, but since you are already using some, and like them too, it makes sense to go with the GT's.
> You then have a full range of speeds to run them at, like the existing ones.
> Besides, then they'll match
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The Scythe GT's are great, I considered the SP-120's because of their aesthetics, look much better, and I'd like the red frame to match with my tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was considering buying 2x Dual Packs (4 fans) plus a 5th separate fan, so I could run the following:
> 
> - Top 360 rad with 3x Scythe GT on pull and 3x SP-120's on push
> - Bottom 240 with 2x Scythe GT on push and 2x SP-120's on pull
> 
> That way only the SP-120's would be vissible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would that be okay or would it cause any kind of negative impact since they're different fans?
Click to expand...

I have to admit the SP-120's are good looking fans, compared to the stodgy old look of the GT's!








That's a good idea you have, imo, I don't see why there would be any negative impact at all with that arrangement.
Then you have the good appearance of the SP-120's to go with the brawn of the GT's:thumb:


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can actually turn my tops almost all the way through with Duralene. The primochill was only a few twists if I was lucky to grab the threads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


But the TFC will grip the tubing snugly? I dont mind ripping my fingers apart as long as the fitting will work lol. Right now i have 7/16 duralene over 1/2 bitspower silver barbs, they arent very hard to put on.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I understand that us poor computer geeks have far less capacity to sustain the monetary loss of a $300 board than a billion dollar company like Amazon.












Lets turn the page









Does any one recall (from STren's review) how the Danger Den M6 compared to the Supremacy???

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> But the TFC will grip the tubing snugly? I dont mind ripping my fingers apart as long as the fitting will work lol. Right now i have 7/16 duralene over 1/2 bitspower silver barbs, they arent very hard to put on.


This was the biggest pita compression fitting install i've done. I think it was designed for maybe ~1-0.5mm slightly smaller diameter to make it more tight. Which tube do you have?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Hey Werm, can you give me a specific way to make SP120's work on my 560 rad? I read something about using some sort of adapter on Martin's site but he didn't really explain it well. You know what I'm talking about? Do you think the SP120's are as good a fan as the NB PK-3's I currently have? Just love the look of the Corsair's....


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Thought I'd chime in and show you guys my most recent update to my build. WATERCOOLED 670s!




And finally, some 3DMark Scores:


Let me know what you guys think!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Starting to like the look of those CSQ blocks myself. Still prefer the older look but I used to not be able to stand them and now they look alright...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Thought I'd chime in and show you guys my most recent update to my build. WATERCOOLED 670s!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, some 3DMark Scores:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what you guys think!


^^^Nice
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Hey Werm, can you give me a specific way to make SP120's work on my 560 rad? I read something about using some sort of adapter on Martin's site but he didn't really explain it well. You know what I'm talking about? Do you think the SP120's are as good a fan as the NB PK-3's I currently have? Just love the look of the Corsair's....


Static pressure is really good on the sp120, The AF140 is pretty decent. You can always buy 120-to-140 adapters. This can act as a quasi plenum. The NB are pretty good fans too. What temps are you getting at load?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_172
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Starting to like the look of those CSQ blocks myself. Still prefer the older look but I used to not be able to stand them and now they look alright...


I'm not a fan but they have plenty of stock and some pretty good parts. Prices are solid too. For my gpu plans, I can save ~$100 by going with EK vs HK....


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This was the biggest pita compression fitting install i've done. I think it was designed for maybe ~1-0.5mm slightly smaller diameter to make it more tight. Which tube do you have?


I'm going to be buying 3/8 5/16 tubing for it later on, Duralene.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm getting around 75C on the hottest core during P95 at 4.8GHz and 1.5V (my 3960X is a bit of a pig OCer). Fans run at 1700rpm and I can't get them to run slower with my fan controller (Bitfenix Recon). Either off or full blast.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> I'm going to be buying 3/8 5/16 tubing for it later on, Duralene.












3/8 x 5/16: 0.375" x 0.3125"

you mean 3/8x5/8?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm getting around 75C on the hottest core during P95 at 4.8GHz and 1.5V (my 3960X is a bit of a pig OCer). Fans run at 1700rpm and I can't get them to run slower with my fan controller (Bitfenix Recon). Either off or full blast.


They may have a small adjustable power range. Well, I'm sure someone will pay for the NB. Then go for some Sp120s









I did get ~55c (ibt) running 4.75 on a 3820 (1.375v) on my M6.

Found the Stren review (google it







). Looks like my M6 lags a couple of degrees behind my M6. Not bad and I don't think its worth replacing it.

edit: sorry for the double post


----------



## WaitWhat

Finally got my watercooling done


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I can't really rule out a less than perfect block mount but my rig is due for a total overhaul soon (got new video cards on the horizon) so everything will get adjusted properly. My temps aren't bad by any means, just not as good as I'd like....


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Thought I'd chime in and show you guys my most recent update to my build. WATERCOOLED 670s!


Great looking blocks, I always loved EK. With colored coolant its :









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Starting to like the look of those CSQ blocks myself. Still prefer the older look but I used to not be able to stand them and now they look alright...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yep Karlitos, our FC7970's are some of the best looking blocks for these cards (though I prefer my clear plexi ones)!


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Dang Karlitos, are you sure you're allowed to show those kind of sexy pics around here







? Haha.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3/8 x 5/16: 0.375" x 0.3125"
> 
> you mean 3/8x5/8?


Derp yeah







tired!


----------



## wermad

EK calls the previous design "Classic FC", i guess to further separate it from the CSQ.

Well, as i've said, I more function over form so EK is now on my #1 spot:

-4x EK FC acetal/copper 7970 CSQ
-4x EK FC 7970 backplates CSQ
-EK Quad FC bridge CSQ

edit: looks are still ugh...but gotta think about function (and cost) first







:

Reference:
Quote:


>


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Derp yeah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tired!


Np









Which brand did you have in mind?


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Sorry wermad, Karlitos is cooler







.


----------



## HF Venom

my God... I can't wait to put my 670 under water


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Sorry wermad, Karlitos is cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I totally agree, sadly, its uber hard to come by these blocks and the bridge. Only current option is their CSQ. HK and AC do make quad bridges but over all its a more costly setup then EK. Btw, I should have mentioned that's not my build







(just used it as reference).


----------



## KaRLiToS

Are those lightnings wermad?

But honestly, I really like the CSQ design. The only thing is the bridge, it needs less circles and more nickel because its the most visible part.

The blocks I got were purchase back in june/july and they were probably some of the last BNIB available accross North America. Bought some at Dazmode, some at PPCs . (Bridge at Dazmode)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Are those lightnings wermad?
> 
> But honestly, I really like the CSQ design. The only thing is the bridge, it needs less circles and more nickel because its the most visible part.


It looks like it. I"m sorry for the confusion. I should have put that pic in quotes







, its not mine









But that gives you a general idea of CSQ with a CSQ quad bridge. I mean....its not that bad...its just too different....that I'm still not a fan. I guess some of us old timer wc'ers don't appreciate the new different things. Now get off my lawn you young whipper shnappers
















(keeps thinking: FUNCTION OVER FORM!!!!).


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yep Karlitos, our FC7970's are some of the best looking blocks for these cards (though I prefer my clear plexi ones)!


That clear plexi + mayhem pastel is unbeatable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EK calls the previous design "Classic FC", i guess to further separate it from the CSQ.
> 
> Well, as i've said, I more function over form so EK is now on my #1 spot:
> 
> -4x EK FC acetal/copper 7970 CSQ
> -4x EK FC 7970 backplates CSQ
> -EK Quad FC bridge CSQ
> 
> edit: looks are still ugh...but gotta think about function (and cost) first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> Reference:
> 
> Np
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which brand did you have in mind?


Ill easily go over the newbridge than the old one









When you see my build log, people who hate CSQ will go crazy and hate me even more,
I mostly use all CSQ product and even the theme is crop circle


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EK calls the previous design "Classic FC", i guess to further separate it from the CSQ.
> 
> Well, as i've said, I more function over form so EK is now on my #1 spot:
> 
> -4x EK FC acetal/copper 7970 CSQ
> -4x EK FC 7970 backplates CSQ
> -EK Quad FC bridge CSQ
> 
> edit: looks are still ugh...but gotta think about function (and cost) first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> Reference:
> 
> Np
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which brand did you have in mind?


Duralene


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yep I'm on Durelene and all of my tubing has held up perfectly since July.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Gotcha wermad, was only teasing too. But yeah nothing can beat the old design ek blocks (plexi) with Ice Dragon coolant







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Duralene


it should be good








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> That clear plexi + mayhem pastel is unbeatable
> Ill easily go over the newbridge than the old one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you see my build log, people who hate CSQ will go crazy and hate me even more,
> I mostly use all CSQ product and even the theme is crop circle


sub'd to your log








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yep I'm on Durelene and all of my tubing has held up perfectly since July.


Mines ok. Its clouding a bit but not that bad. I'm going to switch to colored Adv. LRT. I'm tired of all this plasticizing crap








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Gotcha wermad, was only teasing too. But yeah nothing can beat the old design ek blocks (plexi) with Ice Dragon coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


hehe, I love the old ek design. i guess in an attempt to 'recreate" themselves after the nickel-gate, they went with this. Distraction or detraction? Hehe, it seems like a good option for me, functionality speaking.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> That clear plexi + mayhem pastel is unbeatable


Or Ice Dragon.


----------



## wermad

Was gonna do ID or Mayhems' Pastel, but I need two bottles which really is a deal breaker. With four gpu blocks, I'm probably pushing ~3-3.5L of liquid and I'm adding more reservoirs!


----------



## protzman

pop quiz: does the heatkiller back plate work on the ek csq 680 block?

thx!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> pop quiz: does the heatkiller back plate work on the ek csq 680 block?
> 
> thx!


You might need different screws to grab the block through the backplate. Or you can just grab the pcb using the outside screw holes. For full functionality, stick to the same make backplate. I've tried these swaps but its more of a pita tbh.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> it should be good


It wont loosen up or anythinf right? Even though it has no barb really itll still grip it good?


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You might need different screws to grab the block through the backplate. Or you can just grab the pcb using the outside screw holes. For full functionality, stick to the same make backplate. I've tried these swaps but its more of a pita tbh.


pita is the definition of my build. might as well give it a try! You think maybe i may need longer screws or something?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Or Ice Dragon.






































wow.....

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> It wont loosen up or anythinf right? Even though it has no barb really itll still grip it good?


Nah, I struggled like crazy with the Primochill and the TFC fittings. With the Enzotechs, the Primochill was better but not as smooth as the Duralene. You might have to tango a bit but its not gonna be as crazy had you be using Primochill.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> pita is the definition of my build. might as well give it a try! You think maybe i may need longer screws or something?


Lol, give it a try







. If you need custom size screws, this is one of the best sites:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Nope normal Arm i can not re member the tube size / barb they were bought 5 years ago and the tubeing is the tubing i used with those barbs with little force i can pull it right out..
> 
> But i could just be abit stronger then you two...
> However i can not pull it out of my Bitspower comp fittings with 2 people with channel locks to the point the tubing is stretching where u feel it may rip or something.
> 
> Same as it did when it was new.. i do however think the barbs are the long enzotech dbl barbs.


wut

My XSPC barbs were so hard to take off, I was using both my feet and arms, ended up cutting it off.

on that note, I spilled a cup of water ~ 800ML of watter on my computer before. thank god I have a High FPI rad lol. that thing stopped the avalanche just intime for me to yank out the cable and press the power button to discharge any remaining power.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatNetherbane*
> 
> Just finished my build, hope it qualifies!


Nice looking set up you've got there buddy, It's a shame those 90* fittings aren't rotary ones.

When you pull it apart next time run your tubing this way maybe,


----------



## xintence

hey guys this is my rig what do you think ?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> wut
> 
> My XSPC barbs were so hard to take off, I was using both my feet and arms, ended up cutting it off.
> 
> on that note, I spilled a cup of water ~ 800ML of watter on my computer before. thank god I have a High FPI rad lol. that thing stopped the avalanche just intime for me to yank out the cable and press the power button to discharge any remaining power.


Wut?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Thought I'd chime in and show you guys my most recent update to my build. WATERCOOLED 670s!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, some 3DMark Scores:
> 
> 
> Let me know what you guys think!



We have the same card/block setup pretty much


----------



## Jinto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Wut?


I'm not sure what's going on here. I just hear a lot of grunting and see a lot of tugging...


----------



## wermad

^^^Lol


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Or Ice Dragon.


Thats one hell of a rig








i've seen some with UV reacted coolant, it looks beasty!

other than that I'm in love with XSPC gpu block, the one that glow on the edge
but cant find any good reason to change just the block lol


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> I'm not sure what's going on here. I just hear a lot of grunting and see a lot of tugging...


Pretty simple to see unless you are a simple person?

Taking off a barb vs a comp fitting?

Also showing how easy it is for a barb to leak vs a comp fitting... u can be fooling around in your case and tug on the barb not knowing and there is a good chance it will now leak..

You can swing from the bitspower comp fitting and it wont leak.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I don't understand the point though either. So a barb without a clamp comes off easy ... is that meant to be a surprise?

Try pulling a barb with a clamp off ... (which is essentially all a compression fitting is)

Or even pulling 7/16 tubing off a half inch barb .... that is why people sometimes have to cut it . (not me though)


----------



## LayerCakes

I just got asked for ID buying thermal paste. Then they refused to sell it to me. What even..


----------



## driftingforlife

Where and what paste.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Where and what paste.


Maplin, it's a big tube of some Akasa pro stuff


----------



## King4x4

Hey at least you don't have your TIM confiscated at customs....


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Maplin, it's a big tube of some Akasa pro stuff


They did you a favor


----------



## LayerCakes

Only paste I can get right away :/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Maplin, it's a big tube of some Akasa pro stuff
> 
> 
> 
> They did you a favor
Click to expand...

Never a truer word spoken.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Maplin, it's a big tube of some Akasa pro stuff


The only reason I ever go to Maplin is to see if they have something I need then I find it cheaper online


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nah, I struggled like crazy with the Primochill and the TFC fittings. With the Enzotechs, the Primochill was better but not as smooth as the Duralene. You might have to tango a bit but its not gonna be as crazy had you be using Primochill.


Alright ill stick with the tfc fittings then. Just that it basically has no barb kinda sketchy haha


----------



## kkorky

Just substitute the Arctic Silver for your own paste:

intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf 180k .pdf file


----------



## ClaggyPants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Maplin, it's a big tube of some Akasa pro stuff


I refuse to shop there now. The rudest and most incompentant staff I have ever come across (Newcastle branch). The last time I was there I overheard 2 lads behind the counter openly discussing a customer in a derogatory fashion while no more than 4 feet away from him. The time before that I was trying to buy some resistors and they kept giving me the wrong ones and then argued about about it because they were "in the correct box". Such a shame I had to explain what the coloured rings on the resistors actually mean.


----------



## Canis-X

LOL...I would have to take your word for it concerning the colored rings since I'm color-blind.....Gets real frustrating sometimes.....and embarrassing when my 3 y/o twin daughters are correcting me about a color...LOL Oh-well, LOL, what can you do!?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A little teaser....


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A little teaser....


copper white cosmo?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A little teaser....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> copper white cosmo?
Click to expand...

Yup.


----------



## Fonne

Finally, the new Alphacool Rads









*Alphacool Monstra 140mm*

- Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 140
- Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 280
- Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 420
- Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 560



*Alphacool XT45 180mm*

- Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Single
- Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Dual
- Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Triple



*Alphacool UT60 + Monstra 360 in White*



More pictures here + info
http://www.overclock.net/t/1358240/finally-140mm-alphacool-monstra-rads-xt45-180mm-rads


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Finally, the new Alphacool Rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Alphacool Monstra 140mm*
> 
> - Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 140
> - Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 280
> - Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 420
> - Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 560
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Alphacool XT45 180mm*
> 
> - Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Single
> - Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Dual
> - Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Triple
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Alphacool UT60 + Monstra 360 in White*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pictures here + info
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1358240/finally-140mm-alphacool-monstra-rads-xt45-180mm-rads


Thanks for the info.
I wonder how the Monsta 560 compares with the Monsta 480?








www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1208_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Monsta-560.html


----------



## PinzaC55

Just been doing a bit of cable management and ditched the internal DVD drive in favour of an external Blu Ray writer due to arrive in a couple of days








Rather alarmingly I have noticed that the plastic brackets for the Phobya Balancer reservoir appear to be developing fine cracks so I may have to look for replacement brackets in the future.


----------



## wermad

Joining the CSQ club. Not totally thrilled but my wallet (and my missus) are happy









Wondering if EK makes a clear plexi *quad* csq bridge???


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Joining the CSQ club. Not totally thrilled but my wallet (and my missus) are happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wondering if EK makes a clear plexi *quad* csq bridge???


welcome to the EK love-hate club. I love the combination of price and performance and availability, but hate the circles. I've read that you get used to them, but not me. I want to sand them off every time I look at them.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Joining the CSQ club. Not totally thrilled but my wallet (and my missus) are happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wondering if EK makes a clear plexi *quad* csq bridge???


Im pretty sure they do. I know they make Tri bridge in clear. Might have to order direct from EK I would shoot them a email. I didn't see it on PPC, FCPU, DazMOde, or any of the usual sites.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Joining the CSQ club. Not totally thrilled but my wallet (and my missus) are happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wondering if EK makes a clear plexi *quad* csq bridge???


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-connection-parts/fc-bridges-csq.html?p=3

On their website it appears that they do not carry it in Clear but I would still email and ask.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> welcome to the EK *love-hate* club. I love the combination of price and performance and availability, but hate the circles. I've read that you get used to them, but not me. I want to sand them off every time I look at them.


Lol, this made my day







. They have plenty of stock, prices are good, and there are several accessories for the blocks. Overall a great block, but the looks, ugh, i still have to convince myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Im pretty sure they do. I know they make Tri bridge in clear. Might have to order direct from EK I would shoot them a email. I didn't see it on PPC, FCPU, DazMOde, or any of the usual sites.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-connection-parts/fc-bridges-csq.html?p=3
> 
> On their website it appears that they do not carry it in Clear but I would still email and ask.
Click to expand...

Thanks









I thought about contacting ek but I'm sure I'll be screwed with the $40 shipping from Slovenia. I'm just gonna get the acetal one.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, this made my day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They have plenty of stock, prices are good, and there are several accessories for the blocks. Overall a great block, but the looks, ugh, i still have to convince myself.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about contacting ek but I'm sure I'll be screwed with the $40 shipping from Slovenia. I'm just gonna get the acetal one.


I think the black one will look better with your build anyways given the colors you have.

Ek always has stock. I really like the accessories too. Csq grows on you once its in your system. I have the clear copper ones. I really wanted solid copper gpu block like the cpu block they have.


I think that looks the best for sure.


----------



## LayerCakes

24 hours in the dryer and my Rampage is alive! Yay!


----------



## wermad

I'm thinking of getting one. I bought a plexi/copper 7970 block so I'm going to with plexi copper. Might look for an old Supreme plexi/copper one. My M6 is still pretty solid so I'm not in any hurry replace it. The Supremacy did better then the M6 (Stren's review) but by only a couple of degrees.


----------



## UsofaKingDumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 24 hours in the dryer and my Rampage is alive! Yay!


You got lucky, i would think that putting your mobo in the dryer would cause a lot of static on the board.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 24 hours in the dryer and my Rampage is alive! Yay!


Woot woot!!!!!!


----------



## Hokies83

Still say one of these is a must have.. but u have to have one to know..


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 24 hours in the dryer and my Rampage is alive! Yay!


Nice. The clouds have opened up and a beam of light has come down on you board.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah Werm, I'm probably going to be joining you in the CSQ Club soon if I get my hands on these 680 Lightnings I'm looking at...


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UsofaKingDumb*
> 
> You got lucky, i would think that putting your mobo in the dryer would cause a lot of static on the board.


It went on a drying rack on an antistatic bag








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Nice. The clouds have opened up and a beam of light has come down on you board.


She's alivveeee!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah Werm, I'm probably going to be joining you in the CSQ Club soon if I get my hands on these 680 Lightnings I'm looking at...


MSI was ordered by Nvidia to lock down the Lighting 680 voltage.. Why not the 7970 Lightning?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> It went on a drying rack on an antistatic bag
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She's alivveeee!


Glad to hear everything is ok


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> MSI was ordered by Nvidia to lock down the Lighting 680 voltage.. Why not the 7970 Lightning?
> Glad to hear everything is ok


Flash the BIOS like most of us 680 Lightning owners have done and you're good.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Flash the BIOS like most of us 680 Lightning owners have done and you're good.


Is flashing Nv still as complicated as before? Amd is such a breeze. Will make it easy for more to get my new cards on the Ghz bios.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is flashing Nv still as complicated as before? Amd is such a breeze. Will make it easy for more to get my new cards on the Ghz bios.


Took me about 5 mins to get the whole thing done. First time ever flashing a card so I can't compare to the past.....but the OP of the 680 Lightning thread lays it out step by step and it was very simple.


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys,
About to my my 670 FTW on water








When putting on thermal pads do you put TIM on the current squares that are currently there?
I saw ronsanut do this on a youtube video and want to make sure as it doesnt say to do that in the manual(Im a noob)
Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys,
> About to my my 670 FTW on water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When putting on thermal pads do you put TIM on the current squares that are currently there?
> I saw ronsanut do this on a youtube video and want to make sure as it doesnt say to do that in the manual(Im a noob)
> Thanks!


Some ppl do, but I don't. Its messier and it could cause the pads to tear much easier. I've never done it and will never do







Most pad is a bit sticky to make sure it stays put. Which block are you getting?

edit: I'm guessing some of the confusion lies with manufacturers asking you to cut small squares with the bit of pad the supply. All my recent blocks supply enough to cut strips which makes it easier to install. Also, you can always buy extra pad.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some ppl do, but I don't. Its messier and it could cause the pads to tear much easier. I've never done it and will never do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most pad is a bit sticky to make sure it stays put. Which block are you getting?
> 
> edit: I'm guessing some of the confusion lies with manufacturers asking you to cut small squares with the bit of pad the supply. All my recent blocks supply enough to cut strips which makes it easier to install. Also, you can always buy extra pad.


I got the XSPC Razor with the "new" design. I just have never watercooled a GPU, only CPU and want to make sure I do it all right.


----------



## jokrik

Just wondering, when running an SLI setup
how much difference in temps from one card to another?
mine have a difference of around 3c under load and 1c idle, just wanna make sure the benchmark so I know when something is wrong


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I got the XSPC Razor with the "new" design. I just have never watercooled a GPU, only CPU and want to make sure I do it all right.


Try to keep the pieces as whole as possible. This is a 5970 block but you can get the idea:
Quote:


>


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Just wondering, when running an SLI setup
> how much difference in temps from one card to another?
> mine have a difference of around 3c under load and 1c idle, just wanna make sure the benchmark so I know when something is wrong


That can occur and its not that bad (I had similar temp differences on my 580s). If you want to, try remounting and/or adding more tim to the core.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *Try to keep the pieces as whole as possible*. This is a 5970 block but you can get the idea:


*Why?*

EK doesn't even give enough to do this!


----------



## audioholic

I posted in the Raystorm thread as well but have yet to be answered. Maybe someone with experience can help me out here.
I went to install my Raystorm but the springs are really really tight and I cannot put enough pressure on them to mount the thing. I have a good 1/2" between the end of the screw and the motherboard.
Any suggestions?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Trim the spring?


----------



## Hokies83

Bah wonder if it would be worth trading my 2 4gb 680s for 2x 7970s with water blocks or 3x 7950s with water blocks..

My 680s still cost 559$ lol... and must sell good cause there sold out heh...

Just tired of the locked voltage i really miss overclocking Gpu's... and with the 8000 series delay meh i donno..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *Why?*
> 
> EK doesn't even give enough to do this!


Yeah, EK is known to skimp on the pad. I have some 0.5mm and 1.0mm I got from ebay. Comes from China (~2 weeks delivery) but you can get a large pad for ~$10-15 USD.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Bah wonder if it would be worth trading my 2 4gb 680s for 2x 7970s with water blocks or 3x 7950s with water blocks..
> 
> My 680s still cost 559$ lol... and must sell good cause there sold out heh...
> 
> Just tired of the locked voltage i really miss overclocking Gpu's... and with the 8000 series delay meh i donno..


Are you mimicking my build




























?

You don't have water on your gpu(s)?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, EK is known to skimp on the pad. I have some 0.5mm and 1.0mm I got from ebay. Comes from China (~2 weeks delivery) but you can get a large pad for ~$10-15 USD.
> Are you mimicking my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> You don't have water on your gpu(s)?


No my res Has more E peen XD

No blocks made for my Non Ref Galaxy GC 4GB cards.... And i do not want to put water blocks on a voltage locked gpu heh.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> No my res Has more E peen XD
> 
> No blocks made for my Non Ref Galaxy GC 4GB cards.... And i do not want to put water blocks on a voltage locked gpu heh.


Why do you have 3 x 360 Monsta then?









Future Proofing?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Why do you have 3 x 360 Monsta then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Future Proofing?


Its an e-peen build









How are your temps btw? First Tahiti arrives tomorrow and if I'm lucky, usps delivers my EK block on Saturday


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Why do you have 3 x 360 Monsta then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Future Proofing?


Cause he sold them to me?









I helped fund his 480s







how he got them so quick i bought all 3 of his 360s all at once









3x Monsta 360s for 270$ FTW


----------



## King4x4

Go Quadfire or go home... not enough E-peen without it!


----------



## Fonne

Is there any news about some new 180mm RAD fans ? ... Would LOVE to get the new XT45 180mm, but really need some more fans out ...

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1211_Alphacool-NexXxoS-XT45-Full-Copper-180mm-Single.html



We only got the Silverstone 181 + Phobya 700 rpm right now ...


----------



## Dredknot

Updated the build with some new LED uv lights. These things are freakin ridiculous. I feel like if I walk to close to my computer I might get a tan.

went from this with 3 12" CCl Uv bulbs and inverters. One mounted the the far left back panel, one hanging from my 360mm rad up top, and one DIRECTLY behind my res.


To this, 3 12" led UV strips from phobya. The only reason im using 3 is cuz that's how many I thought it would take so that's what I bought. One strip achieves almost the same amount of brightness, but since this is OC.NET I figured overkill is the game.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Go Quadfire or go home... not enough E-peen without it!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Updated the build with some new LED uv lights. These things are freakin ridiculous. I feel like if I walk to close to my computer I might get a tan.
> 
> went from this with 3 12" CCl Uv bulbs and inverters. One mounted the the far left back panel, one hanging from my 360mm rad up top, and one DIRECTLY behind my res.
> 
> 
> To this, 3 12" led UV strips from phobya. The only reason im using 3 is cuz that's how many I thought it would take so that's what I bought. One strip achieves almost the same amount of brightness, but since this is OC.NET I figured overkill is the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't know if your serious about the whole sun burn thing, but these lights are not UV lights. True UV lights are a blue / white color.

But after seeing this I am considering in swapping my 2x 12 inch CCFL for one of the Phobya 24 inch LED strips.

Looks great n GREEN!!!!!!


----------



## Pawelr98

Phenom II x4 965 C3 BE @4.1ghz 1.38V cooled by 360mmrad + 120mm rad.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Phenom II x4 965 C3 BE @4.1ghz 1.38V cooled by 360mmrad + 120mm rad.


is that an old camera effect ? oh wait...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I posted in the Raystorm thread as well but have yet to be answered. Maybe someone with experience can help me out here.
> I went to install my Raystorm but the springs are really really tight and I cannot put enough pressure on them to mount the thing. I have a good 1/2" between the end of the screw and the motherboard.
> Any suggestions?


I have two Raystorms, and the first time mounting can be a pain. Hold the block in place and push hard to get one started, then go directly across the block and get another one started.
Make sure the tension nuts are bottomed out all the way before you start.
One of mine was really hard to mount the first time, after a while the springs relaxed a little and made it easier. I asked XSPC through PPC-s and they said they make all the springs the same.

Might be easier if you have the computer laying flat or up against a wall if it's standing up.
I usually tape a block of wood in place with painters tape to hold the backplate in place so I have both hands free. I just run the tape across the back of the computer from one end to the other.
Except on the SM8 with the removable mobo tray.....that makes it really easy.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> is that an old camera effect ? oh wait...


This red thing there is my led fan. And the poor quality is due to weak light in my room(and the fact that I have red blinds on my window).


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any news about some new 180mm RAD fans ? ... Would LOVE to get the new XT45 180mm, but really need some more fans out ...
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1211_Alphacool-NexXxoS-XT45-Full-Copper-180mm-Single.html
> 
> We only got the Silverstone 181 + Phobya 700 rpm right now ...


I've had good experience w/ the Silverstone AP181s. They seem like pretty decent fans.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Don't know if your serious about the whole sun burn thing, but these lights are not UV lights. True UV lights are a blue / white color.
> 
> But after seeing this I am considering in swapping my 2x 12 inch CCFL for one of the Phobya 24 inch LED strips.
> 
> Looks great n GREEN!!!!!!


Actually UV ranges roughly from 10nm to 400nm and is perceived as a purple/violet to the human eye. If lights are white they may contain uv in the spectrum, but also contain many other wavelengths. Blue is very close to the UV spectrum, but it isn't UV.


----------



## WaitWhat

Probably a stupid question but can you use the D5 pump that comes with the xspc pump/res combo with any reservoir?

Only ask because when I add my GPU to the loop, I'll probably move away from the drive bay for location


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Probably a stupid question but can you use the D5 pump that comes with the xspc pump/res combo with any reservoir?
> 
> Only ask because when I add my GPU to the loop, I'll probably move away from the drive bay for location


You would have to buy either a pump top or another reservoir with some kind of an integrated pump mount


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Probably a stupid question but can you use the D5 pump that comes with the xspc pump/res combo with any reservoir?
> 
> Only ask because when I add my GPU to the loop, I'll probably move away from the drive bay for location


I believe you can. You will probably have to get a different pump top if it doesn't come with the usual D5 top.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That can occur and its not that bad (I had similar temp differences on my 580s). If you want to, try remounting and/or adding more tim to the core.


I'm just too lazy taking off the block since I also have the backplate installed








anyway, i've heard that less is more when dealing with TIM , isnt it?


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I believe you can. You will probably have to get a different pump top if it doesn't come with the usual D5 top.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Yeah that's what I thought. I bought this for simpleness as its my first go at it all

Can anyone recommend a good pump top? I'm assuming its not particularly important which reservoir I get


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Yeah that's what I thought. I bought this for simpleness as its my first go at it all
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good pump top? I'm assuming its not particularly important which reservoir I get


I really like the XSPC top or the Bitspower top


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any news about some new 180mm RAD fans ?


Those rads are in stock on Alphacools own website, so if you live in somewhere in Europe, you should be fine. I just ordered the 3x180mm version for my FT02 to replace my Magicool radiator


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its an e-peen build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are your temps btw? First Tahiti arrives tomorrow and if I'm lucky, usps delivers my EK block on Saturday


Overclocked to 1240mhz/1600Mhz gives me max of 48'C . I have 3 x Radiators

-240mm Feser X-Changer
-360mm Feser X-Changer
-480mm Feser X-Changer

I would get another radiator but I don't have space anymore, i'm pretty sure my build is one of the most powerful for its compact size (Still mega huge though







)

I'm not sure if I will be bulding another rig anytime soon because my GF just learned she is pregnant.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Those rads are in stock on Alphacools own website, so if you live in somewhere in Europe, you should be fine. I just ordered the 3x180mm version for my FT02 to replace my Magicool radiator


Its not the RADS that I am looking after, but news about some fans to put on it


----------



## mr one

Got theese two radiators ( *rad number one* *rad number two* )29 euro total. Kinda fun now going to think where to put that 360 rad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> No my res Has more E peen XD
> 
> No blocks made for my Non Ref Galaxy GC 4GB cards.... And i do not want to put water blocks on a voltage locked gpu heh.


Do you know if its "V2" 680 pcb? I know Alphacool makes a V2 block for the 680.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Go Quadfire or go home... not enough E-peen without it!


Haha, you know too well you need MOAR POWAH for Eyefinity/Surround, especially for 1440s screens







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Overclocked to 1240mhz/1600Mhz gives me max of 48'C . I have 3 x Radiators
> 
> -240mm Feser X-Changer
> -360mm Feser X-Changer
> -480mm Feser X-Changer
> 
> I would get another radiator but I don't have space anymore, i'm pretty sure my build is one of the most powerful for its compact size (Still mega huge though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I'm not sure if I will be bulding another rig anytime soon because my GF just learned she is pregnant.


I'm sure a 900D is in store for you









Congrats! Kids will drive you nuts but they're the love of your life


----------



## Hokies83

Well i know it has a custom Pcb and a Heat spreader under the heat sink.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Got theese two radiators ( *rad number one* *rad number two* )29 euro total. Kinda fun now going to think where to put that 360 rad


Wow, that's a pretty good deal. How'd you manage that?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well i know it has a custom Pcb and a Heat spreader under the heat sink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Let me look into it for you


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Wow, that's a pretty good deal. How'd you manage that?


Was thinking on what i could get from aquatuning for he same price as i spent on 240mm st30 from alphacool that wasnt in stock so saw theese two sitting and waiting for someone to grab em and changed order


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well i know it has a custom Pcb and a Heat spreader under the heat sink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, its a custom pcb. Never seen a GTX 680 with side-by-side power connectors. Well, if you wanna sell them, I'm sure you'll get plenty enough for two 7970 (three 7950s) or a couple of 680 or 670 4gb. Since your using one 1440, the 2gb versions should be perfectly fine and you have plenty of options for blocks.

Btw, you can always go universal blocks


----------



## Hokies83

I had 7970s awhile back had massive driver issues with them and got 1 defective... other COIL Whine like crazy...

And in my silent builds that is something i can not and will not stand for..

My 4GB 680s are like 559$ atm.. And use custom Chokes a Vented pcb and Samsung Vrams..


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I really like the XSPC top or the Bitspower top


I got 2 of those XSPC tops and like them alot. The multi port gives lots of mounting options.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomad692000*
> 
> I got 2 of those XSPC tops and like them alot. The multi port gives lots of mounting options.


I have the "Classic" EK X-Top (non crop circle version) and really like it. Essentially exact same design as the XSPC top, and you're right, the multiport option is very handy


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Its not the RADS that I am looking after, but news about some fans to put on it


Ah yeah, sorry my bad. I guess I was too excited from ordering the new radiator. But it would indeed be nice with a wider variety of 180mm fans. The size is just a bit too uncommon I guess


----------



## Crooksy

After receiving my replacement 800D (wasn't able to swap it for a 900







) I am ready to order my water cooling loop. I think I am almost there but need your help to finalise. Here is what I have so far -



What do you think and what would _you_ change? I am not 100% sure on tubing yet so this is what I would like your input on. I am unable to get LRT advanced and I want red coloured. My choices seem to be Masterkleer or Primochill.

*Here's a link if you can't view the image correctly* - http://tinypic.com/r/2jd3jwn/6


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> After receiving my replacement 800D (wasn't able to swap it for a 900
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I am ready to order my water cooling loop. I think I am almost there but need your help to finalise. Here is what I have so far -
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think and what would _you_ change? I am not 100% sure on tubing yet so this is what I would like your input on. I am unable to get LRT advanced and I want red coloured. My choices seem to be Masterkleer or Primochill.


somehow the picture cant be zoom in , cant see what you've ordered

Edit: Oh wait I can see it now from the quote I made









Its all looking good , you've all the components needed
but with 800D, dont you want to use the extra space and go with more radiators if you've the budget?
will you be OC-ing your CPU/GPU? if yes I think you wont get the most out of your loop with just that radiator

and though I'm using ddc pump myself, it runs a bit hot compare to d5/mcp655
so it is recommended to have a fan blowing into it to help with the longevity of the pump


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> somehow the picture cant be zoom in , cant see what you've ordered


Same here


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> What do you think and what would _you_ change? I am not 100% sure on tubing yet so this is what I would like your input on. I am unable to get LRT advanced and I want red coloured. My choices seem to be Masterkleer or Primochill.


somehow the picture cant be zoom in , cant see what you've ordered[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> somehow the picture cant be zoom in , cant see what you've ordered
> 
> 
> 
> Same here
Click to expand...

That's strange, it's perfectly visible for me. I'll look into it.

*EDIT: Try this link* - http://tinypic.com/r/2jd3jwn/6


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> somehow the picture cant be zoom in , cant see what you've ordered


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Same here


open link in new tab









Loop looks good to me. That's a whole lot of EK


----------



## Systemlord

I have a question regarding flushing radiators when using vinegar, will the vinegar harm my powder coating or rubber seals on my mix of Bitspower and Koolance connection links between both radiators?

Also what is the mixture ratio of distilled water : vinegar? What vinegar is the preferred choice, distilled or regular?


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> open link in new tab
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop looks good to me. That's a whole lot of EK


Certainly is a lot of EK but I like it all to match and think their products look great, even if not so many agree with me ha!

Do you have a recommendation on tubing for me at all?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I have a question regarding flushing radiators when using vinegar, will the vinegar harm my powder coating or rubber seals on my mix of Bitspower and Koolance connection links between both radiators?
> 
> Also what is the mixture ratio of distilled water : vinegar? What vinegar is the preferred choice, distilled or regular?


THIS
is the guide which I used to clean my rad
and I've done it just a couple of days ago (Its in my log)


----------



## morencyam

I have no problem with their fittings. I actually really like them. I like that look rather than the knobby look of monsoon and Enzotech angles. Never used or really looked at their rads much. As for tubing, not really sure what is all available to you, but I've been using XSPC High Flex for over a year with no issue. They might have the red you're looking for too


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Certainly is a lot of EK but I like it all to match and think their products look great, even if not so many agree with me ha!
> 
> Do you have a recommendation on tubing for me at all?


See my edited post, I can see it when I quote you, picture seems bigger









but with the masterkleer I've no problem with it running with EK coolant for almost 8 months
but I'm going to change it to primocill advanced LRT, heard only good stuff from it

but you cant go wrong with Tygoon or Duralene though

honestly everyone has their own story with tube, go with the one you like, fit you budget, available and pray


----------



## UsofaKingDumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> It went on a drying rack on an antistatic bag
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She's alivveeee!


I bet that puckered up your butt hole when you got it wet. lol


----------



## UsofaKingDumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I posted in the Raystorm thread as well but have yet to be answered. Maybe someone with experience can help me out here.
> I went to install my Raystorm but the springs are really really tight and I cannot put enough pressure on them to mount the thing. I have a good 1/2" between the end of the screw and the motherboard.
> Any suggestions?


Can you show us a picture of what this looks like? It may appear that you are installing it incorrectly.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have no problem with their fittings. I actually really like them. I like that look rather than the knobby look of monsoon and Enzotech angles. Never used or really looked at their rads much. As for tubing, not really sure what is all available to you, but I've been using XSPC High Flex for over a year with no issue. They might have the red you're looking for too


I'll see if I can find any more brands that will check all the boxes. I'll keep an eye out for the XSPC stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> See my edited post, I can see it when I quote you, picture seems bigger
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but with the masterkleer I've no problem with it running with EK coolant for almost 8 months
> but I'm going to change it to primocill advanced LRT, heard only good stuff from it
> 
> but you cant go wrong with Tygoon or Duralene though
> 
> honestly everyone has their own story with tube, go with the one you like, fit you budget, available and pray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its all looking good , you've all the components needed
> but with 800D, dont you want to use the extra space and go with more radiators if you've the budget?
> will you be OC-ing your CPU/GPU? if yes I think you wont get the most out of your loop with just that radiator
> 
> and though I'm using ddc pump myself, it runs a bit hot compare to d5/mcp655
> so it is recommended to have a fan blowing into it to help with the longevity of the pump


That's good to hear that you haven't had any issues. If I decide to go with the Masterkleer, I will probably keep it until the advanced is available in the UK, then switch for that.

I won't be clocking my CPU that much further, probably to 4.5ish or depending on temps and I believe I have a very poor OCing card. That still needs to be confirmed though. I could afford more stuff but this is going to be my first loop and I didn't want to go crazy with it so I think i'll go with what I have right now and then I can always expand in the future









*Does anyone have any suggestions on what could come in handy should I need to drain the loop? Connections, fittings or just the general method of doing so without causing a huge spillage? A thread on the topic would be great if anyone has a link?*


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have no problem with their fittings. I actually really like them. I like that look rather than the knobby look of monsoon and Enzotech angles. Never used or really looked at their rads much. As for tubing, not really sure what is all available to you, but I've been using XSPC High Flex for over a year with no issue. They might have the red you're looking for too
> 
> 
> 
> I'll see if I can find any more brands that will check all the boxes. I'll keep an eye out for the XSPC stuff.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> See my edited post, I can see it when I quote you, picture seems bigger
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but with the masterkleer I've no problem with it running with EK coolant for almost 8 months
> but I'm going to change it to primocill advanced LRT, heard only good stuff from it
> 
> but you cant go wrong with Tygoon or Duralene though
> 
> honestly everyone has their own story with tube, go with the one you like, fit you budget, available and pray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its all looking good , you've all the components needed
> but with 800D, dont you want to use the extra space and go with more radiators if you've the budget?
> will you be OC-ing your CPU/GPU? if yes I think you wont get the most out of your loop with just that radiator
> 
> and though I'm using ddc pump myself, it runs a bit hot compare to d5/mcp655
> so it is recommended to have a fan blowing into it to help with the longevity of the pump
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's good to hear that you haven't had any issues. If I decide to go with the Masterkleer, I will probably keep it until the advanced is available in the UK, then switch for that.
> 
> I won't be clocking my CPU that much further, probably to 4.5ish or depending on temps and I believe I have a very poor OCing card. That still needs to be confirmed though. I could afford more stuff but this is going to be my first loop and I didn't want to go crazy with it so I think i'll go with what I have right now and then I can always expand in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Does anyone have any suggestions on what could come in handy should I need to drain the loop? Connections, fittings or just the general method of doing so without causing a huge spillage? A thread on the topic would be great if anyone has a link?*
Click to expand...

Drain-port, using a T-line


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'll see if I can find any more brands that will check all the boxes. I'll keep an eye out for the XSPC stuff.
> That's good to hear that you haven't had any issues. If I decide to go with the Masterkleer, I will probably keep it until the advanced is available in the UK, then switch for that.
> 
> I won't be clocking my CPU that much further, probably to 4.5ish or depending on temps and I believe I have a very poor OCing card. That still needs to be confirmed though. I could afford more stuff but this is going to be my first loop and I didn't want to go crazy with it so I think i'll go with what I have right now and then I can always expand in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Does anyone have any suggestions on what could come in handy should I need to drain the loop? Connections, fittings or just the general method of doing so without causing a huge spillage? A thread on the topic would be great if anyone has a link?*


One of THIS
and
one of THIS

and a plug for a port
put it at the lowest part of your loop possible
and you're good to go


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> THIS
> is the guide which I used to clean my rad
> and I've done it just a couple of days ago (Its in my log)


Thank you for the link, I plan on filling my 5 gallon bucket just under two gallons so I'm going to need a lot more vinegar than in the video! I have to submerge my pond pump almost completely under water, so a 4-1 ratio of water-vinegar is what I'll use. Since my radiators are new I flush at least 30 minutes, I have seen new radiators spew out paint chips and debris from the manufacturing process.

Still don't know if it's safe to use vinegar through my powder coated fittings and o-rings...?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Thank you for the link, I plan on filling my 5 gallon bucket just under two gallons so I'm going to need a lot more vinegar than in the video! I have to submerge my pond pump almost completely under water, so a 4-1 ratio of water-vinegar is what I'll use. Since my radiators are new I flush at least 30 minutes, I have seen new radiators spew out paint chips and debris from the manufacturing process.
> 
> Still don't know if it's safe to use vinegar through my powder coated fittings and o-rings...?


I am curious myself and googled stuff on removing powder coating
I came across THIS
So maybe its ok? lol


----------



## UsofaKingDumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'll see if I can find any more brands that will check all the boxes. I'll keep an eye out for the XSPC stuff.
> That's good to hear that you haven't had any issues. If I decide to go with the Masterkleer, I will probably keep it until the advanced is available in the UK, then switch for that.
> 
> I won't be clocking my CPU that much further, probably to 4.5ish or depending on temps and I believe I have a very poor OCing card. That still needs to be confirmed though. I could afford more stuff but this is going to be my first loop and I didn't want to go crazy with it so I think i'll go with what I have right now and then I can always expand in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Does anyone have any suggestions on what could come in handy should I need to drain the loop? Connections, fittings or just the general method of doing so without causing a huge spillage? A thread on the topic would be great if anyone has a link?*


http://koolance.com/vlv-xtsplb-drain-valve-brass

You can use a T-Line or you can get a drain valve like the one i put in my loop. I love this thing, i was able to empty out my loop in about 2 minutes with this thing. I thought the first time I was going use it that water was going to pour out as soon as I loosened the cap. I was extra cautious about not spilling any water so i put an entire roll of paper towels underneath plus a bowl.

NOT NEEDED! there was only 1 drop of water that came out of the valve until i let the air in by loosing another valve. SIMPLE AND EASY! what more can you ask for. Just put this on the lowest part of your loop and your good!


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UsofaKingDumb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'll see if I can find any more brands that will check all the boxes. I'll keep an eye out for the XSPC stuff.
> That's good to hear that you haven't had any issues. If I decide to go with the Masterkleer, I will probably keep it until the advanced is available in the UK, then switch for that.
> 
> I won't be clocking my CPU that much further, probably to 4.5ish or depending on temps and I believe I have a very poor OCing card. That still needs to be confirmed though. I could afford more stuff but this is going to be my first loop and I didn't want to go crazy with it so I think i'll go with what I have right now and then I can always expand in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Does anyone have any suggestions on what could come in handy should I need to drain the loop? Connections, fittings or just the general method of doing so without causing a huge spillage? A thread on the topic would be great if anyone has a link?*
> 
> 
> 
> http://koolance.com/vlv-xtsplb-drain-valve-brass
> 
> You can use a T-Line or you can get a drain valve like the one i put in my loop. I love this thing, i was able to empty out my loop in about 2 minutes with this thing. I thought the first time I was going use it that water was going to pour out as soon as I loosened the cap. I was extra cautious about not spilling any water so i put an entire roll of paper towels underneath plus a bowl.
> 
> NOT NEEDED! there was only 1 drop of water that came out of the valve until i let the air in by loosing another valve. SIMPLE AND EASY! what more can you ask for. Just put this on the lowest part of your loop and your good!
Click to expand...

Damn, it's out of stock on my site (based in the UK).

So, just to be clear, I would just connect a compression fitting to both ends and just carry on my loop as usual. Then when it's time to drain, just release the central spout? Seems simple, just wanted to be sure!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I am curious myself and googled stuff on removing powder coating
> I came across THIS
> So maybe its ok? lol


Interesting, powder coating varies greatly between powder coating companies. Question is are there members out there that have used vinegar with their powder coated fittings with no problems?


----------



## UsofaKingDumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Damn, it's out of stock on my site (based in the UK).
> 
> So, just to be clear, I would just connect a compression fitting to both ends and just carry on my loop as usual. Then when it's time to drain, just release the central spout? Seems simple, just wanted to be sure!


You'll want to have the drain valve at the most lowest point of your loop. But thats about it you just release the central spout and then once you get a bottle or something to collect the liquid you can release one of the side valves. And then once it starts to slow down. grab one of the ends of the loop and blow into it until you get all the fluid out. there are many other sites that sell them. but these work better then the T-lines because of that reason, it wont just start to pour out when you open one of the valves. Hope this helps!



I originally had the valve here and then i re did my loop to make it lower. It still worked when it was here i just had to blow in it more. not a big deal. but its definitely a lifesaver.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UsofaKingDumb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Damn, it's out of stock on my site (based in the UK).
> 
> So, just to be clear, I would just connect a compression fitting to both ends and just carry on my loop as usual. Then when it's time to drain, just release the central spout? Seems simple, just wanted to be sure!
> 
> 
> 
> You'll want to have the drain valve at the most lowest point of your loop. But thats about it you just release the central spout and then once you get a bottle or something to collect the liquid you can release one of the side valves. And then once it starts to slow down. grab one of the ends of the loop and blow into it until you get all the fluid out. there are many other sites that sell them. but these work better then the T-lines because of that reason, it wont just start to pour out when you open one of the valves. Hope this helps!
> 
> 
> 
> I originally had the valve here and then i re did my loop to make it lower. It still worked when it was here i just had to blow in it more. not a big deal. but its definitely a lifesaver.
Click to expand...

Sweet, thanks for the information. It's much appreciated.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> *Does anyone have any suggestions on what could come in handy should I need to drain the loop? Connections, fittings or just the general method of doing so without causing a huge spillage? A thread on the topic would be great if anyone has a link?*


I'm using the spare outlet port on my pump as a drain line right now. But before I did that I was using a t-block with about a foot of tubing with a threaded plug barb and it worked fine. That's going to be how I drain when I rebuild my loop in my new case when it's done too


----------



## Crooksy

Just to double check and to put my mind at ease before I make the order, this block will fit my card right? I have the signature edition of the 680 and I know it has slightly different power connections.

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc680-gtxplus-acetal-full-cover-vga-water-block


----------



## kyismaster

I dare some one to have a wall of 4x 4 - 480 monsta rads.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I dare some one to have a wall of 4x 4 - 480 monsta rads.


Most likely Hokies83 will take up this challenge


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Most likely Hokies83 will take up this challenge


I already have a wall of 360s I will mostly likely add 1 more 360 up top and 1 480 on the side makin the monsta rad total 4x360 1x 240 and 1x 480

Just waiting on u to go for those new 560s so I can buy 1 of yours lol.


----------



## chann3l

Added a swiftech extreme series 120 rad to my loop to work alongside my Ex240.




4.9 ghz @ 1.445v IBT max temp comparison

Before 120 rad max temp 73

After 120 rad max temp 70

Only dropped another 3 degrees but it looks awesome so its worth it


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any news about some new 180mm RAD fans ? ... Would LOVE to get the new XT45 180mm, but really need some more fans out ...
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1211_Alphacool-NexXxoS-XT45-Full-Copper-180mm-Single.html
> 
> 
> 
> We only got the Silverstone 181 + Phobya 700 rpm right now ...


The Silverstone AP182 just was released, and it looks quite promising!




(found these via Google Image Search)

Beautiful, white fans... The specs are even more impressive than their looks, however....
According to Silverstone/Newegg, the specs are:
SILVERSTONE AIR PENETRATOR AP182 180MM FAN
Model: SST-AP182
Size: 180x180x32mm
Motor Type: Dual-Ball Bearing
Rated Current: 0.05A (500rpm) ~1.3A (2000rpm)
Rated Power: 0.6W (500rpm)~15.6W (2000rpm)
Speed: 500~2000rpm
Airflow: 60CFM @ 500rpm / 80CFM @ 700rpm / 130CFM @ 1200rpm / 170CFM @ 2000rpm
Airflow Range: 1.2M (700rpm) / 3M (1200rpm) / 4.5M (2000rpm)
Static Pressure: 0.7mmH2O @ 500rpm / 1.1mmH2O @ 700rpm / *2.45mmH2O @ 1200rpm / 6.1mmH2O @ 2000rpm*
Noise: 17dBA (500rpm) / 18dBA (700rpm) / 34dBA (1200rpm)
Airspeed: 1.9m/s ; 3.1m/s (measured at fan exit)

That's a serious fan right there! Honestly, if I was building with 180mm rads, this would be THE ONLY fan I'd consider, especially considering the anecdotes I've read thus far.... all of which are extremely positive!!!


----------



## dmanstasiu

Holy crap 6.1mm/h20

SOld


----------



## chann3l

Couple more photos


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Anyone try the new Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing yet? Haven't used clear tubing in a while, and my last few builds for all red or black Primochill Pro LRT (which gave me no problems, surprisingly) so I'm out of the loop in terms of the best clear non clouding tubing. Going to be using Ice Dragon btw.


----------



## PCModderMike

Would love to get a few of those fans mounted on a 540 and get it all inside something like an FT02. MoAr surface area!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Anyone try the new Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing yet? Haven't used clear tubing in a while, and my last few builds for all red or black Primochill Pro LRT (which gave me no problems, surprisingly) so I'm out of the loop in terms of the best clear non clouding tubing. Going to be using Ice Dragon btw.


There are quite a few members that have been using the new Advanced LRT tubing without any problems for months, it seems as if Primochill fixed their problems with the new tubing. No reports of any problems from anybody using the new Advanced LRT tubing! It's a bit stiffer though than the more flexible Primoflex Pro LRT, I guess Primochill had to sacrifice flexibility for longevity.

Tomorrow I will finish installing my Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red tubing, I have a sample in acidic distilled water (PH level is 3) and so far after 24 hours no problems!


----------



## King4x4

Any ideas how to make the bloodshed red more red?!

Tried dying the liquid through a mayhem red and it changed a bit but need more red!


----------



## Pawelr98

Red tubing maybe ?


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> The Silverstone AP182 just was released, and it looks quite promising!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (found these via Google Image Search)
> 
> Beautiful, white fans... The specs are even more impressive than their looks, however....
> According to Silverstone/Newegg, the specs are:
> SILVERSTONE AIR PENETRATOR AP182 180MM FAN
> Model: SST-AP182
> Size: 180x180x32mm
> Motor Type: Dual-Ball Bearing
> Rated Current: 0.05A (500rpm) ~1.3A (2000rpm)
> Rated Power: 0.6W (500rpm)~15.6W (2000rpm)
> Speed: 500~2000rpm
> Airflow: 60CFM @ 500rpm / 80CFM @ 700rpm / 130CFM @ 1200rpm / 170CFM @ 2000rpm
> Airflow Range: 1.2M (700rpm) / 3M (1200rpm) / 4.5M (2000rpm)
> Static Pressure: 0.7mmH2O @ 500rpm / 1.1mmH2O @ 700rpm / *2.45mmH2O @ 1200rpm / 6.1mmH2O @ 2000rpm*
> Noise: 17dBA (500rpm) / 18dBA (700rpm) / 34dBA (1200rpm)
> Airspeed: 1.9m/s ; 3.1m/s (measured at fan exit)
> 
> That's a serious fan right there! Honestly, if I was building with 180mm rads, this would be THE ONLY fan I'd consider, especially considering the anecdotes I've read thus far.... all of which are extremely positive!!


Thanks, just what I am looking after









Will se if I can get room to fit push/pull (109mm). but even in push only it should perform pretty well


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Any ideas how to make the bloodshed red more red?!
> 
> Tried dying the liquid through a mayhem red and it changed a bit but need more red!


How much red do you need?! You may have to go for red tubing


----------



## King4x4

I want the red tubing to be more red


----------



## Hokies83

I donno i think the Primochill Advanced bloodshed red is as red as it gets.. if u want it more red u need Some lights to shine on it kinda like this..


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> The Silverstone AP182 just was released, and it looks quite promising!


I'm tempted and they are in stock in the UK, but at £25 i can't justify changing my AP181's.


----------



## xintence

okay so i have just switched to water cooled system but for some reason its heating up my room like crazy checked the temps on the gpu and cpu and there fine but i dont know what it could be any ideas if its anything to do with the watercooling or is it somthing elce

any tips on how to keep my room as cool as i can would help alot

ps i do have a fan and evap air-con but its useless


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xintence*
> 
> okay so i have just switched to water cooled system but for some reason its heating up my room like crazy checked the temps on the gpu and cpu and there fine but i dont know what it could be any ideas if its anything to do with the watercooling or is it somthing elce
> 
> any tips on how to keep my room as cool as i can would help alot
> 
> ps i do have a fan and evap air-con but its useless


Open a window? Turn down the heat in your house? Watercooling shouldn't make your room that much hotter than air if any. Your computer as awhole should still produce the same amount of heat.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Anyone try the new Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing yet? Haven't used clear tubing in a while, and my last few builds for all red or black Primochill Pro LRT (which gave me no problems, surprisingly) so I'm out of the loop in terms of the best clear non clouding tubing. Going to be using Ice Dragon btw.


mine was running great for a month and then after that i decided to add mayhems pink UV die and it stained my tubes (dyes fault not Primochill"s) so i have 10ft of Primochill Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red on the way, im done with dyes for awhile!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xintence*
> 
> okay so i have just switched to water cooled system but for some reason its heating up my room like crazy checked the temps on the gpu and cpu and there fine but i dont know what it could be any ideas if its anything to do with the watercooling or is it somthing elce
> 
> any tips on how to keep my room as cool as i can would help alot
> 
> ps i do have a fan and evap air-con but its useless


The only difference in heat output from an air cooled system and water cooled is the pump.

Maybe your just more aware of the heat it is putting out.

Also typically with water cooling your, heat rejection is in a more concentrated area, so the actual air from the rads will be warmer, but the measurement of heat would be extremely similar.
Quote:


> *Qu1ckset*:
> 
> mine was running great for a month and then after that i decided to add mayhems pink UV die and it stained my tubes (dyes fault not Primochill"s) so i have 10ft of Primochill Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red, im dont with dyes for awhile!


I have heard Mayhem's warning people all the time about the UV Pink. It is a dye thing they can't avoid, but they taking it out from there products.


----------



## khemist

Changing from this



Masterkleer Yellow and pastel sunset Yellow to some pastel white and white tubing to avoid the eventual clouding that will happen at some point... same reason i done it with the yellow.

Pics up soon!.


----------



## kcuestag

Very nice! I'm surprised you're running it all with just a 2x180mm Magicool rad instead of a 3x180mm.


----------



## khemist

The magicool rad is more than enough believe it or not.


----------



## Fonne

Do you think that I can cool a i7-3770k + GTX670 with a single Alphacool XT45 180mm then ? - With Silverstone AP182 on low speed ?


----------



## khemist

I wouldn't think so, it's not so great at very low RPM's.

I would try and use another 120mm radiator or whatever you have to spare also.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> The magicool rad is more than enough believe it or not.


Fix


----------



## Hokies83

You can never have enough Rads XD


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> You can never have enough Rads XD


Hahaha, a comment like this coming from you doesn't surprise me.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hahaha, a comment like this coming from you doesn't surprise me.


getting ready to order a monsta 480 and another 360 as a matter of fact XD it will make 6 monsta rads @[email protected]

Figureing what to do about water blocks on my gpus in pm with Wermad now heh.... i have to use uni's cause there is no full coverage made for my fancy pcb's meh..


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> getting ready to order a *monsta 480 and another 360* as a matter of fact XD it *will make 6 monsta rads* @[email protected]
> 
> Figureing what to do about water blocks on my gpus in pm with Wermad now heh.... i have to use uni's cause there is no full coverage made for my fancy pcb's meh..





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























































































Change the name of your build from Quad Monsta to Hexa Monsta


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change the name of your build from Quad Monsta to Hexa Monsta


Err maybe just the 480 i do not want to take up my 3 fan holes up top...

That is only way i have to fill the loop take the top of the case off left that top res and fill it while the pump is running LOL.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Finally got a hold of one of these babies (EN too!) The thumbscrews are ceramic coated in black so that's kinda neat. Brand new too for $55 shipped







.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Finally got a hold of one of these babies (EN too!) The thumbscrews are ceramic coated in black so that's kinda neat. Brand new too for $55 shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Nice block, better price!


----------



## adamski07

Prodigious WC loop.

Pump > 240 >mosfet block > cpu > gpu > 240 > Res > Pump

Components:
Two(2) Swiftech MCR220-XP eXtreme Performance Dual 120mm Slim Radiator
Primochill tubing
BitsPower 90 adapters
Matte black Moonsoon fittings
Mayhem's white pastel coolant
Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor
EK ASUS Maximus V Gene Liquid Cooling Block Set
EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ
Swiftech MCRES Micro Rev. 2
EK Supreme LTX Acetal + Nickel CSQ


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
















http://www.facebook.com/AdamskiMods


----------



## nleksan

WOW! That Prodigy is absolutely amazing!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change the name of your build from Quad Monsta to Hexa Monsta


Holy mother of RAD


----------



## Hokies83

The left and right quad rad location ill hit the rads i already have installed but the middle section is free and clear...

Ill have to use disconnects on it however so i can remove the back panel when i want to lol...


----------



## benito

Finished my rig.

1x Alphacool UT60.120.3-roof
1x Alphacool UT60.120.2-floor
1x Swiftech mcp655 vario
1x Bitspower 250ml tube res
1x XSPC Raystorm
1x Watercool Heatkiller GPU-x^3
Corsair SP120 HP on rads in push config
Enzotech 1/2"fittings and barbs
Masterkleer 7/16"x5/8"
Mayhems Pastel Mint Green approximately 1.5L


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> Finished my rig.
> 
> 1x Alphacool UT60.120.3-roof
> 1x Alphacool UT60.120.2-floor
> 1x Swiftech mcp655 vario
> 1x Bitspower 250ml tube res
> 1x XSPC Raystorm
> 1x Watercool Heatkiller GPU-x^3
> Corsair SP120 HP on rads in push config
> Enzotech 1/2"fittings and barbs
> Masterkleer 7/16"x5/8"
> Mayhems Pastel Mint Green approximately 1.5L
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing.







One of the best green loops I've seen in a while and this one is very well done. love the black with lime-ish green and the white tingle of the Corsair fans. (btw, how good and noisy are those fans? do you control them somehow?)

Could you comment a little on the green lighting in the front and top? (a little pic of specifically that would be swell)


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Changing from this
> 
> 
> 
> Masterkleer Yellow and pastel sunset Yellow to some pastel white and white tubing to avoid the eventual clouding that will happen at some point... same reason i done it with the yellow.
> 
> Pics up soon!.


It's the first time I've seen quick disconnects used properly in a long time.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Changing from this
> 
> 
> 
> Masterkleer Yellow and pastel sunset Yellow to some pastel white and white tubing to avoid the eventual clouding that will happen at some point... same reason i done it with the yellow.
> 
> Pics up soon!.


This is a great rig!


----------



## Fonne

Almost forgot about liquid-extasy, and think its a small company that it worth sharing









http://www.liquid-extasy.de


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the best green loops I've seen in a while and this one is very well done. love the black with lime-ish green and the white tingle of the Corsair fans. (btw, how good and noisy are those fans? do you control them somehow?)
> 
> Could you comment a little on the green lighting in the front and top? (a little pic of specifically that would be swell)


the fans are pushing a lot of air through the rads. i have the voltage dividers on all the fans

just for reference

this is how i have it set up



i can feel air all the way to the end of the keyboard

and as for lighting

i am using these *LED strips*. You can cut to the length you need and then solder wire to connect them to each other


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> the fans are pushing a lot of air through the rads. i have the voltage dividers on all the fans
> 
> just for reference
> 
> this is how i have it set up
> 
> 
> 
> i can feel air all the way to the end of the keyboard
> 
> and as for lighting
> 
> i am using these *LED strips*. You can cut to the length you need and then solder wire to connect them to each other
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So i guess the fans are quite quiet on the 7V reducers. Aren't you worried about the results of negative pressure in the case? mainly dust. (though i think that the breeze near the keyboard is totally worth it







)

really like the LEDs. i have been considering something similar but maybe that the LED strips would somehow light on the Corsair fan blades and maybe create some kind of a neat effect. (though i have no real idea of what to expect)

and i'm not much of a solder but luckily there are enough LED strips already made to 12v molex









(that small piece of tubing between the pump and the res is adorable







)

and to everyone else, here's a little review i found of the new Phobya eLoop fans:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uGGbxeAsmE (the fans look quite good and perform decently)


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> the fans are pushing a lot of air through the rads. i have the voltage dividers on all the fans
> 
> just for reference
> 
> this is how i have it set up
> 
> 
> 
> i can feel air all the way to the end of the keyboard
> 
> and as for lighting
> 
> i am using these *LED strips*. You can cut to the length you need and then solder wire to connect them to each other


great crazy green job.. altougth the card is bended a bit.. i really like what yo did with the loop and the ssds.. very tidy..


----------



## dartuil

My future montage :
-Swiftech apogee HD
-Swiftech MCW82 kit 7900 if i get the kit
-Pump/Reservoir Laing DDC alphacool :
[View Video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjwqOPQJgoM
-Tubes 13/16 transparent (i dont have it)

Should I add a extra reservoir?


----------



## Yukss

New pump *res XD

Not the best case for cablemanagement.. actually HORRIBLE... imma buy the corsair 600t
360rad above is not in the pics.. my bad..


----------



## MiiX

Anyone using EK-D5 X-RES 100 CSQ? Cause i have question about it: How tall is it, when pump is installed? Thanks


----------



## airplaneman

Anyone rocking an orange/white theme?

Would love to see some pics, as I'm thinking about that color scheme for my next project.


----------



## MrPotato53

Here's mine


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPotato53*
> 
> Here's mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i like your fans and your block


----------



## YowZ

Nice Phantom dude, looks tidy.


----------



## Systemlord

Guy's we are not supposed to be quoting more than one picture, use spoilers please!









Thank you.


----------



## _REAPER_

what is the strongest D5 Pump you can get?


----------



## Jakusonfire

All D5's are the same. They are all made by Laing
The "Strongest" is the D5 strong non variable model running on 24 Volts

http://koolance.com/pmp-450s-pump-id-13mm-1-2in


----------



## dumbazz

Very Very Nice


----------



## mr one

Having a hard time on loop order








just got first items and i see that my case will be a very tight fit with all parts together


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> All D5's are the same. They are all made by Laing
> The "Strongest" is the D5 strong non variable model running on 24 Volts
> 
> http://koolance.com/pmp-450s-pump-id-13mm-1-2in


This.


----------



## kcuestag

Time to retire my current cheap reservoir for this:



It was a surprised to get the fans sleeved by the store, Thanks to ProSilentPC from Spain!









PS: Yes, it's a phone camera, sorry!


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Great looking blocks, I always loved EK. With colored coolant its :


Nice!


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> Finished my rig.
> 
> 1x Alphacool UT60.120.3-roof
> 1x Alphacool UT60.120.2-floor
> 1x Swiftech mcp655 vario
> 1x Bitspower 250ml tube res
> 1x XSPC Raystorm
> 1x Watercool Heatkiller GPU-x^3
> Corsair SP120 HP on rads in push config
> Enzotech 1/2"fittings and barbs
> Masterkleer 7/16"x5/8"
> Mayhems Pastel Mint Green approximately 1.5L
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I am a fan of the Black and green builds, Looks good. Your mint green looks real good to, did you add anything to it? My mint green seems to have a bit of yellow-ish tone to it but still like the turn out!


----------



## mr one

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Time to retire my current cheap reservoir for this:
> 
> 
> 
> It was a surprised to get the fans sleeved by the store, Thanks to ProSilentPC from Spain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: Yes, it's a phone camera, sorry!






thinking how to steal your res







i kinda liked more that silverstone case that you had


----------



## kcuestag

While draining the loop I spilled water over the board from bottom to the Republic of Gamers heatsink. I dried it eith some kitchen paper towels, should I use a hair dryer to be safe?

I wont be powering the rig for a couple of hours, first I will mount the new reservoir.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> While draining the loop I spilled water over the board from bottom to the Republic of Gamers heatsink. I dried it eith some kitchen paper towels, should I use a hair dryer to be safe?
> 
> I wont be powering the rig for a couple of hours, first I will mount the new reservoir.


I would just dry it with paper towels and leave it alone for 1 or 2 days.
If its not to much water it should all vaporize after some time.


----------



## morencyam

I agree with Farih. I wouldn't rush it. Every time I've spilled water on any or my hardware I've always waited at least 24 hours after mopping up any large accessible puddles


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks, I guess I will wait until tomorrow.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks, I guess I will wait until tomorrow.


I think that's a wise choice. Better to wait a day without a computer than power it up and there still be water hiding under a heatsink then fry the board. If watercooling has taught me anything, it's that patience is very important when mixing water and electronics. The smallest of mistakes could have catastrophic consequences


----------



## kcuestag

Do you guys think it's ok to fill the loop and leak test it for 24 hours? Only the pump will get power.


----------



## morencyam

Oh absolutely. Just as long as the pump is the only thing that will get power, as you said


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Do you guys think it's ok to fill the loop and leak test it for 24 hours? Only the pump will get power.


Been doing that for ages


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamski07*
> 
> Prodigious WC loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pump > 240 >mosfet block > cpu > gpu > 240 > Res > Pump
> 
> Components:
> Two(2) Swiftech MCR220-XP eXtreme Performance Dual 120mm Slim Radiator
> Primochill tubing
> BitsPower 90 adapters
> Matte black Moonsoon fittings
> Mayhem's white pastel coolant
> Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor
> EK ASUS Maximus V Gene Liquid Cooling Block Set
> EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ
> Swiftech MCRES Micro Rev. 2
> EK Supreme LTX Acetal + Nickel CSQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/AdamskiMods


Once of the cleanest rigs I've seen using monsoon fittings.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> Finished my rig.
> 
> 1x Alphacool UT60.120.3-roof
> 1x Alphacool UT60.120.2-floor
> 1x Swiftech mcp655 vario
> 1x Bitspower 250ml tube res
> 1x XSPC Raystorm
> 1x Watercool Heatkiller GPU-x^3
> Corsair SP120 HP on rads in push config
> Enzotech 1/2"fittings and barbs
> Masterkleer 7/16"x5/8"
> Mayhems Pastel Mint Green approximately 1.5L
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy Green Machine! Looks good! Temps must be real nice will all those rads.


----------



## kcuestag

So I'm letting my board dry, filled the loop a bit (didn't have time to complete the filling), I noticed pump was very loud, as if a cat wad screaming, I noticed it was absorbing many bubbles, after turning it off and on few times noise decreased considerably.

I guess this is normal for these bay reservoirs when filling them?

I left to the gym, I will finish filling the loop in a couple of hours, meanwhile I left everything unplugged.


----------



## driftingforlife

I had a load of water on my RIVE and MVF from benching and they both work fine, ROG boards


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I had a load of water on my RIVE and MVF from benching and they both work fine, ROG boards


You reckon 24hrs of leaving it unplugged plus a bit of hair dryer is enough?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I had a load of water on my RIVE and MVF from benching and they both work fine, ROG boards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You reckon 24hrs of leaving it unplugged plus a bit of hair dryer is enough?
Click to expand...

I just put my board upside down in a cardboard box on top of a layer of rice for 24 hours.


----------



## Canis-X

I just point a fan at it overnight, with the board sitting vertical and have never had a problem. I get my board wet pretty much every time I mess with my loops...LOL.....thus why I hate messing with my loops.


----------



## mavisky

I just recently setup my first true loop and as the pump worked out the air bubbles from inside the housing and the fluid went from looking like 7UP back to water the sounds died down completely.


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks guys, I will use a hair dryer a bit tonight and some more in the morning.

Might leave a fan or two plugged while leak testing and place them pushing air towards the board.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks guys, I will use a hair dryer a bit tonight and some more in the morning.
> 
> Might leave a fan or two plugged while leak testing and place them pushing air towards the board.


24 hours on the drying rack did mine just fine.


----------



## kcuestag

Not sure if it matters but I left the board battery plugged.

Here's hoping my pc works fine tomorrow, else I will kill myself.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> I just recently setup my first true loop and as the pump worked out the air bubbles from inside the housing and the fluid went from looking like 7UP back to water the sounds died down completely.


Its such a rush when you power it up for the first time and you wait to see whether the coolant is gonna spurt out of a loose joint. It doesn't happen and you feel a wave of relief.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## kcuestag

Filling the loop on my new XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir acrylic, pump makes a lot of noise, I can see it absorbs a lot of bubbles, is that normal? Should the noose get away after a while.


----------



## MiiX

If you got the adjustable speed D5's, try changing it up and Down, there might be some air in the pump for some reason...


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Filling the loop on my new XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir acrylic, pump makes a lot of noise, I can see it absorbs a lot of bubbles, is that normal? Should the noose get away after a while.


I've always had troubles with smaller reservoirs coupled to the pump being very difficult to clear of air bubbles. It required a lot of cycling the pump on and off and rotating the case multiple times to get rid of all air-pockets in the RAD's and fittings.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Filling the loop on my new XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir acrylic, pump makes a lot of noise, I can see it absorbs a lot of bubbles, is that normal? Should the noose get away after a while.


i just upgrade to my new xspc reservoir - pump


and in order to remove bubbles you HAVE to shake alot your case and change the speed from 1 to 5,(only if you have the variable speed one) either way shake it until you will not see any bubble and the pump does sound like a dying cat


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> and in order to remove bubbles you HAVE to shake alot your case and change the speed from 1 to 5,(only if you have the variable speed one) either way shake it until you will not see any bubble and the pump does sound like a dying cat


Dunno about shaking your case but moving my tubing slightly and tilting the case for a few seconds at a time got the bubbles out of mine


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks guys, noise seems to be gone now, it is dead silent. From time to time it does make noise bit that's just the bubbles exiting the loop.

Going to let it stay as it is for 12 hours of leak testing and I will turn the computer on by then.

Hope the motherboard is still alive.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

So here's the question:

Do I grab a third 7970 and blcok and just add them to my current sig rig or do I tear the whole thing down and start over with new video cards and all new blocks? I can't have mismatched blocks (it's an OCD thing) so if I change any blocks I'd have to change them all. Would love an all HK set up (though I don't think they make RIVE blocks do they)....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Going to let it stay as it is for 12 hours of leak testing and I will turn the computer on by then.
> 
> Hope the motherboard is still alive.


Your in a win win situation, longer you leave it on leak test the longer your board has to dry









Just a word of warning, I would also suggest when finished leak checking with the pump running, to let it sit (with no pump running) for a few hours to see if all seals are good.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Saw these at PPCS. So clean. Would be my case of choice for a WC ITX build.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> Finished my rig.
> 
> 1x Alphacool UT60.120.3-roof
> 1x Alphacool UT60.120.2-floor
> 1x Swiftech mcp655 vario
> 1x Bitspower 250ml tube res
> 1x XSPC Raystorm
> 1x Watercool Heatkiller GPU-x^3
> Corsair SP120 HP on rads in push config
> Enzotech 1/2"fittings and barbs
> Masterkleer 7/16"x5/8"
> Mayhems Pastel Mint Green approximately 1.5L


One of the finest green build!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPotato53*
> 
> Here's mine


Looks neat! Is that Ice Dragon?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If I ever wanted a small case the Prodigy would be the only choice IMO. Of course I can't ever see myself wanting a rig that small...


----------



## PCModderMike

Hey guys








So I was able to get my hands on a EVGA GTX 690....and now I want to go back under water!










One of the blocks I'm checking out is from XSPC....anyone have experience with it? Or any XSPC GPU blocks really...mainly wondering if I could use the EVGA backplate still once the block is installed?


----------



## Shogon

The XSPC block for the 690 is good, but I don't think it will work with the EVGA backplate.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If I had a 690 I'd HAVE to get the HK block for it. Just so epic!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> If I had a 690 I'd HAVE to get the HK block for it. Just so epic!


Brb, need to clean my pants...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> The XSPC block for the 690 is good, but I don't think it will work with the EVGA backplate.


Hmm darn.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> If I had a 690 I'd HAVE to get the HK block for it. Just so epic!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mmmm I actually have been eyeing that as well...but this version. I like the copper color more than the black.


----------



## mr. biggums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> If I had a 690 I'd HAVE to get the HK block for it. Just so epic!


if it's anything like my hk block that I had on my 570 is weights 3 pounds


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> if it's anything like my hk block that I had on my 570 is weights 3 pounds










Considering how large the 690 is then...it might weigh 5 pounds? lol


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, the copper looks amazing as well! And a GPU block's weight ain't a problem for me and my TJ11!


----------



## Qu1ckset

I love my evga hydrocopper and backplate


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, the copper looks amazing as well! And a GPU block's weight ain't a problem for me and my TJ11!


Not a problem in my case as well







90 degree rotated motherboards FTW.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I love my evga hydrocopper and backplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh my! That is sexy....but I've heard the Swiftech blocks used by EVGA don't perform as well as other counterparts offered?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Not a problem in my case as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90 degree rotated motherboards FTW.
> 
> EDIT:
> Oh my! That is sexy....but I've heard the Swiftech blocks used by EVGA don't perform as well as other counterparts offered?


never seen my gpu's go over 30 degrees, they usually hang around 28 degrees when gaming, so i have zero complaints, plus i love the full block/ all black look over the heat killer design, but to each there own.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> never seen my gpu's go over 30 degrees, they usually hang around 28 degrees when gaming, so i have zero complaints, plus i love the full block/ all black look over the heat killer design, but to each there own.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good to know...thanks for the input







Also you get to use the backplate...I like that.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Oh my! That is sexy....but I've heard the Swiftech blocks used by EVGA don't perform as well as other counterparts offered?


If I recall correctly, the Swiftech blocks are middle of the pack as far as cooling goes, but they have more flow restriction than a lot of the other blocks.

EDIT: This is the review I was thinking of. It's for 7970s but it should be comparable. What would we do without Bundy?








http://www.overclock.net/t/1255376/bundymania-user-review-6-fullcover-waterblocks-for-amd-hd7970-roundup/10


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*


Got to ask, what motherboard is this?


----------



## mr one

Oh just saw that they have one more *alphacool rad* in b-stock section quite cheap


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Oh just saw that they have one more *alphacool rad* in b-stock section quite cheap


Almost ordered, but then i noticed that it is leaking, someone has put a too long screw and made a hole


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Okay heres mine
Phobia G-Changer 360 60mm cut n shut in top of Antec 1200
Alphacool NexXos 240 45mm
HK Supreme HF full Nickel
XSPC Dual bay res pump combo 750 L/P/H
Zalman Reserator V2 2.5 L 300 L/P/H I can add this to the loop when I wanna bench
Koolance QDC's VLN4 's
Various colours 1/2 in 3/4 hose


Idle temps with reserator

And what I started with
Thermaltake 760i with Koolance CPU 360 block and Koolance CU420 120 rad 45mm

Not as OCD as some but it does the job very niiiice


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Almost ordered, but then i noticed that it is leaking, someone has put a too long screw and made a hole


Kinda strange because theese rads comes with protection from too long screws or i am wrong?


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Got to ask, what motherboard is this?


According to his signature block area it is a Asus Rampage IV Gene X79


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Kinda strange because theese rads comes with protection from too long screws or i am wrong?


yeah, i used google translator to translate the text, and it says "leaking! Screw was screwed in too far"


----------



## _REAPER_

It is not hard to get a rad fixed if it has a small puncture.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

New Build








Block : XSPC Raystorm for 1155
Rad : RS240
Res\Pump : 750 Dual Bay
Fans : XSPC 120mm x 25mm @ 1650rpm
BlackChrome Compression fittings





first custom loop Woot Woot

Think next month I will add the 7950 to the loop... not sure yet. Had a blast putting it together...

Currently sitting at 4.5ghz on 1.18vcore liking the temps ... 23c idle


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> According to his signature block area it is a Asus Rampage IV Gene X79


That's not an X79 board in the pic. Looks like a Maximus IV Gene to me...


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's not an X79 board in the pic. Looks like a Maximus IV Gene to me...


It's neither of them, wrong SB heatsink design.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> It's neither of them, wrong SB heatsink design.


Really? Looks identical to me:


----------



## KaRLiToS

Definately a Maximus IV Gene*-Z*

Edit


----------



## kcuestag

Good news, after spilling water all over my motherboard yesterday morning, and letting it dry for a bit over 24 hours, I fired up the rig and it all works just fine!

Here it is, with the new XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic Reservoir:


----------



## PCModderMike

Wow, good thing it worked out for ya. Liking the rig, looks good.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Good news, after spilling water all over my motherboard yesterday morning, and letting it dry for a bit over 24 hours, I fired up the rig and it all works just fine!
> 
> Here it is, with the new XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic Reservoir:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad everything worked out for you! That looks a lot better than with the tube res. How's it look from the front?
I think you need a Monsta for that bottom 240 rad


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Glad everything worked out for you! That looks a lot better than with the tube res. How's it look from the front?
> I think you need a Monsta for that bottom 240 rad


I used the black plate for the front of the reservoir, I like it.









Here's one edited by 1337LutZ:



A monsta 240 on the bottom would be amazing.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Really? Looks identical to me:


Ahh I didn't know there was a Gene-Z


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I used the black plate for the front of the reservoir, I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one edited by 1337LutZ:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A monsta 240 on the bottom would be amazing.


Nice. Didn't know if you had it recessed a little bit so you could leave the bay covers on and make it look as if there was no res there.


----------



## badtaylorx

im using them in my build.(build log on another site). ive found them to be quite flexible, soft, easy to put over a barb(w/a lil' heat) and best of all, NO TINT


----------



## bundymania

Kryos arrived today..........i would say: It´s a perfect match


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If I do end up switching out my EK blocks I'm almost certainly going with a Kryos and HK GPU blocks...


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> the fans are pushing a lot of air through the rads. i have the voltage dividers on all the fans
> 
> just for reference
> 
> this is how i have it set up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can feel air all the way to the end of the keyboard
> 
> and as for lighting
> 
> i am using these *LED strips*. You can cut to the length you need and then solder wire to connect them to each other
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking green build. That Mayhems mint green looks so amazing. I have been thinking about getting some myself but from all that pics that I have seen, I thought it was too light but it looks just right for my build. I completed my build 5 months ago and is still undecided on where to go with lighting but I will give those LED strips a look.


----------



## HF Venom

@bubdymania what MB is this? I don't think I've ever seen something so beautiful


----------



## mr. biggums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> @bubdymania what MB is this? I don't think I've ever seen something so beautiful


it appears to be the ECS Z77H2-AX, does look fairly good with the kyros block.


----------



## Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Kryos arrived today..........i would say: It´s a perfect match


That is just epic!


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I used the black plate for the front of the reservoir, I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one edited by 1337LutZ:
> 
> 
> 
> A monsta 240 on the bottom would be amazing.


yea, but it is still very nice^^









I finally got my sli sys running smoove  ..the sli bridge fits sweet to the res and cpu-block











SLIn yo face!


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> it appears to be the ECS Z77H2-AX, does look fairly good with the kyros block.


yap. looks like you're right. Tbh I've never even heard of that brand before, looks cool as hell though


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Nice looking green build. That Mayhems mint green looks so amazing. I have been thinking about getting some myself but from all that pics that I have seen, I thought it was too light but it looks just right for my build. I completed my build 5 months ago and is still undecided on where to go with lighting but I will give those LED strips a look.


I also added 1 drop of mayhems dark blue dye


----------



## McDown

...


----------



## Wizid

Would someone please show some Pics of a Phantom 820 with the water cool setup Please? I have seen it in this thread some where. And I believe it may have been a moderator. But I am unable to find it.You folks have inspired me to make my system much more professional looking. I just bought some new stuff. But I have a few Questions. Is there mounting hardware for the rad? The last item on my list it a case fan for the rad but it is 1 1/2" thick. but it has an impressive 252.85 cfm. I had these installed at one point but with no controller to change speeds. They are so loud I could barely here the game with my headset on. I am hoping that with these inside the case and a speed controller than can be more effective. Opinions?
Also looking for the best spot to mount the Aqualis Reservoir and Pump. You can see from my system I have now I am cooling my CPU, NB,SB, and both video cards. The SB seems to always run hot so I was considering to put that in the loop first or right after the CPU. Opinions? Please. Sorry for all the links as I have not got a chance to take pictures. Once I get started on the build I will take plenty and post em up.
1. AquaComputer Pump Adapter w/ Aqualis Reservoir and Pump http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16994/ex-res-422/AquaComputer_Pump_Adapter_w_Aqualis_Reservoir_and_Pump_Installed.html
2. Monsoon Free Center Compression Fitting - 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD - Modders 6 Pack Chrome (FCC-3812-6P-CH)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16649/ex-tub-1329/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_38ID_x_12OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Chrome_FCC-3812-6P-CH.html
3. Fluid XP+ Nano-Fluid Liquid Cooling Fluid 32 oz. - UV Blue
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8607/ex-liq-141/Fluid_XP_Nano-Fluid_Liquid_Cooling_Fluid_32_oz_-_UV_Blue.html
4. NZXT Phantom 820
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146096
5. Delta FFB1212EH-PWM 120mm Case cooler. 4000 RPM 150.33 CFM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706032
or
5. 1ST PC CORP. PFB1212UHE-F00 120mm Case Cooling Fan. 5500 RPM 252.85 CFM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706015


----------



## HF Venom

anyone know when the new EK fittings hit the market? I know the 45° fittings are already available but what good are they if you don't have the regular fittings


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> yap. looks like you're right. Tbh I've never even heard of that brand before, looks cool as hell though


Golden board or something individually tested so on and so forth . My first 2011 board WAS the ARX-79 version and it was doa out of the box , what a piece of crap







. Took me 3mths to get my cash back


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love it







(especially those red painted GTs)
could you comment on the tubing/coolant used?

what have you used to do the connection between the GPU and the MoBo? was it difficult to do the connection?

also, in my opinion the tube routing between the CPU block and the MoBo block usually doesn't appeal to me (since most times it looks like a bit lazy routing and most of the time not too beautiful, also pops out a little too much) but yours looks quite nice.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Absolutely stunning black and red TJ07 build:thumb:
The front panel is really well integrated with the custom plate, res., and fan controller.
That would be a great addition to the TJ07 Owners Club And Gallery


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome build. I really love these clean and nicely done builds.


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (especially those red painted GTs)
> could you comment on the tubing/coolant used?
> 
> what have you used to do the connection between the GPU and the MoBo? was it difficult to do the connection?
> 
> also, in my opinion the tube routing between the CPU block and the MoBo block usually doesn't appeal to me (since most times it looks like a bit lazy routing and most of the time not too beautiful, also pops out a little too much) but yours looks quite nice.


The tubing is Tygon R-3603 (found cheap on ebay) and Feser UV red 50ml bottle (I wish I had more).
From gpu to mobo I have 45 angle adapter. Nothing special tbh.


----------



## Chiraq

I miss my old TJ07 now....


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> The tubing is Tygon R-3603 (found cheap on ebay) and Feser UV red 50ml bottle (I wish I had more).
> From gpu to mobo I have 45 angle adapter. Nothing special tbh.


well, it looks like a 45 degree angle was born for exactly that spot to fit just right. Too bad i have a 7950, all the nice blocks are on the green side (better put: the better designed blocks) while TBH the 680/670 doesn't need them too much. (i spot a custom backplate?)

btw, do you think the Corsair Platinum RAM would fit in a color theme similar to yours or it might stand out too much? (since the red line ram fits but for my taste it is a little too much red, or in other words the red of the ram is not as dark as i'd want. if only Corsair would release Red Lightbar upgrade kit already instead of only white and blue)


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> ... if only Corsair would release Red Lightbar upgrade kit already instead of only white and blue)




My upgrade kit came with red, white, and blue lenses. I don't know why Corsair's site says it only comes with blue and white... I ordered directly from them the day it was released. You can even see from the box that it was intended to also be released with red.


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> well, it looks like a 45 degree angle was born for exactly that spot to fit just right. Too bad i have a 7950, all the nice blocks are on the green side (better put: the better designed blocks) while TBH the 680/670 doesn't need them too much. (i spot a custom backplate?)
> 
> btw, do you think the Corsair Platinum RAM would fit in a color theme similar to yours or it might stand out too much? (since the red line ram fits but for my taste it is a little too much red, or in other words the red of the ram is not as dark as i'd want. if only Corsair would release Red Lightbar upgrade kit already instead of only white and blue)


Corsair should fit ok, especially with red led's.
And yes backplate is custom.


----------



## TPE-331

Nice clean build McDown.







Looks good.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> 
> 
> My upgrade kit came with red, white, and blue lenses. I don't know why Corsair's site says it only comes with blue and white... I ordered directly from them the day it was released. You can even see from the box that it was intended to also be released with red.


either you are ridiculously lucky and got the rarest upgrade kit ever, or the internet decided to barely talk of this fact (looking at you Corsair). from all of my search I've found that there's only white and blue and the closest i have seen to red is someone's mod of the RAM itself. i'm sure many would appreciate (especially me) if you'd showcase the red bar in a pic or 2 sometime.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Corsair should fit ok, especially with red led's.
> And yes backplate is custom.


and lastly, i think the bear makes your loop the most


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well hello there....great looking TJ07.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Corsair should fit ok, especially with red led's.
> And yes backplate is custom.


How did you make the backplate?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How did you make the backplate?


With a hacksaw


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> either you are ridiculously lucky and got the rarest upgrade kit ever, or the internet decided to barely talk of this fact (looking at you Corsair). from all of my search I've found that there's only white and blue and the closest i have seen to red is someone's mod of the RAM itself. i'm sure many would appreciate (especially me) if you'd showcase the red bar in a pic or 2 sometime.


I'll try to swap them in tonight for a pic for you when I get home from work today. I was surprised to see the red lenses included also, since they only mentioned blue and white in their press release. I would have figured they'd update their site by now.


----------



## dartuil

what u think about my loop?
http://www.hiboox.fr/go/images-100/montage-full-wc,c81413ed0fda9bfb404caa30bc8f6b56.jpg.html

possible second reservoir
one 240 on top , one 120 at bottom , pump/res under dvd writer, one apogee hd on cpu and one komodo on 7950


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> what u think about my loop?
> http://www.hiboox.fr/go/images-100/montage-full-wc,c81413ed0fda9bfb404caa30bc8f6b56.jpg.html
> 
> possible second reservoir
> one 240 on top , one 120 at bottom , pump/res under dvd writer, one apogee hd on cpu and one komodo on 7950


I'm not sure why would you need second res but if you cut your hdd cage a little you could put another 240 rad at the bottom


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> ...


seriously neat!, this is what I call a perfect build









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> what u think about my loop?
> http://www.hiboox.fr/go/images-100/montage-full-wc,c81413ed0fda9bfb404caa30bc8f6b56.jpg.html
> 
> possible second reservoir
> one 240 on top , one 120 at bottom , pump/res under dvd writer, one apogee hd on cpu and one komodo on 7950


second reservoir is just for look, nothing much
for me the number of radiators needed does not depends on the case, it depends on the performance you are looking at








if you really going to push that GPU and CPU than stuff as much radiator as you can in it
but a total of 360 rad for me is just at the bare minimum of cooling a CPU and a gpu loop


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> 5. Delta FFB1212EH-PWM 120mm Case cooler. 4000 RPM 150.33 CFM
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706032
> or
> 5. 1ST PC CORP. PFB1212UHE-F00 120mm Case Cooling Fan. 5500 RPM 252.85 CFM
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706015


Just so you know... The 1PCC fan requires 48W to run, which is more than most fan controllers can put out on a single channel. Don't get me wrong, those are kickass fans, but they draw an amazing amount of power, and I have found that fans with similar design require a 25-35mm shroud to really be effective due to the gigantic motor creating a huge dead-spot. If you only intend on using 1-2 of them, a 50W-per-channel fan controller would do fine, but I personally would add some heatsinks to the Fan Controller PCB MOSFETs just to be safe.

The Delta you linked is also an excellent fan, not nearly as loud (actually about a little less than half as loud in person), and while I don't remember exactly how much power it draws, I believe it is somewhere around 23-28W?

If you intend on using 4 or more of these fans, together with other (wimpy, by comparison) case fans, and want to be able to control them all....you may very well need to have a 2nd fan controller dedicated to just the 1st PCC and Delta fans!


----------



## FTWRoguE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Good news, after spilling water all over my motherboard yesterday morning, and letting it dry for a bit over 24 hours, I fired up the rig and it all works just fine!
> 
> Here it is, with the new XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic Reservoir:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]


How are you able to fill that bay res? Doesn't look like you have much slack on the tubes to be able to pull it out.


----------



## dartuil

so u think this little reservoir is enough?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjwqOPQJgoM

so another 240 for a good 5ghz on 2600k (if it want) and a good 1100/1600 on gpu (if it want)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FTWRoguE*
> 
> How are you able to fill that bay res? Doesn't look like you have much slack on the tubes to be able to pull it out.


I don't need to pull the reservoir out, I just pull the fan controller above the reservoir and fill it very easy.


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I don't need to pull the reservoir out, I just pull the fan controller above the reservoir and fill it very easy.


Same res fist bump. Mine was also noisy as hell for the first hour or so.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velcrowchickensoup*
> 
> Same res fist bump. Mine was also noisy as hell for the first hour or so.


Yeah, It was so loud I thought the pump was empty since it was too loud. Now it's dead silent, can't hear it at all, love this reservoir.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How did you make the backplate?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> With a hacksaw


You do good work McDown.


----------



## dumbazz

Ayah yes good 0ld Hacksaw !


----------



## Huizar9791




----------



## Huizar9791




----------



## dartuil

whats inside? Huizar9791


----------



## CodofMC

What radiator is that at the front of the case? It looks REALLY thin.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Huizar9791*


2 small 1x120 radiators to cool both GPU and CPU? How?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> 2 small 1x120 radiators to cool both GPU and CPU? ow?


2 120mm radiators is enough for a single cpu and gpu, with only mild overclocking.


----------



## Huizar9791

I put 2 radiators because the liquid out of the cpu is hot. upon entering the second radiator cooled back to enter and be able to overclock gpu


----------



## iMica

That thing....is covered in mesh right? Why?

Also you should have gotten a thicker rad up front, sure as hell have room for it.


----------



## Huizar9791

I'm using. Apogee xt cpu block. Universal mcw82 gpu block. 2 radiators swiftech 120mm. 2 corsair fan high performance SP120 120mm. 2 fans 200mm. NZXT hue rgb led conttoller. P500 pump


----------



## slippyturtle

As requested I swapped in the red light bar lenses on my Corsair Dominator Platinums for a test photo:



... honestly it's a lighter red, not a dark shade at all since you are still using the white LED light bar and it's just a colored lens.

I use the blue lenses normally:



I find it pretty odd that there's no real documentation anywhere that I can find that Corsair is sending their light bar upgrade kits out with blue, white, AND red lenses considering all the fuss ppl are raising about red not being available. The box mine came in is clearly a production retail box, and I've had them for weeks, so I dunno. I guess noone is posting pics up.

...or I'm the only idiot that bought these things.


----------



## Huizar9791

before


----------



## Huizar9791

After.


----------



## num1son

Nvmd...

did you mean before?


----------



## Huizar9791

Yep


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Huizar9791*
> 
> I put 2 radiators because the liquid out of the cpu is hot. upon entering the second radiator cooled back to enter and be able to overclock gpu


Well the loop will uniform after 15-30 mins so there's no real difference about the order of it.


----------



## gill22

Here are some details of My Rig.
*
Core i7 3700k Unlocked
Maximus V Formula
Corsair Vengance RAM
Intel SSD 520 Series.
EKWB blocks Supremacy and FC670GTX with Alphacool 240MM Rad and Phobya 200MM in Front.*


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gill22*
> 
> Here are some details of My Rig.
> *
> Core i7 3700k Unlocked
> Maximus V Formula
> Corsair Vengance RAM
> Intel SSD 520 Series.
> EKWB blocks Supremacy and FC670GTX with Alphacool 240MM Rad and Phobya 200MM in Front.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love photo's showing a table filled with stuff like this


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I love photo's showing a table filled with stuff like this


I would have to agree with the above statement..


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I love photo's showing a table filled with stuff like this


Then you'll enjoy mine too
















Link


----------



## mr one

Finally got all parts for water cooling. How about this loop order?


----------



## Fieel

loop order is irrelevant (except for aesthetics). The whole loop temp will uniform after 15-30 mins so there's no real difference about what first and what after.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Finally got all parts for water cooling. How about this loop order?


Looks good but you are going to need a fill port and a drain port.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I would have to agree with the above statement..


JUST FOR LAUGHS


----------



## MCCSolutions

HEY! OCN..... You ever had someone use one of these pumps for a water cooling setup with a Bracardi 151 bottle as a RES?! Follow the Build Here!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1359879/fatal-build-by-mccsolutions-all-corsair-fatal1ty-amd-build-full-parallel-water-cooled-32gb-fx-8350-crossfire-6970s


----------



## gill22

Good One ..Man.


----------



## TPE-331

Nice!


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Huizar9791*
> 
> I put 2 radiators because the liquid out of the cpu is hot. upon entering the second radiator cooled back to enter and be able to overclock gpu


You known that the liquid temp variation between different points in the loop is maximum ~1C right?
(...at best if a large loop is in used... which is not the case here)


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Looks good but you are going to need a fill port and a drain port.


Fillport is on the res so with this no problems at all but as for the drainport.. its kinda gonna be hard, also evetyrhing already mounted on the testbench with some mods and kinda disapointed because ordered wrong 45 angled fittings and i need 180 degree fitting.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> As requested I swapped in the red light bar lenses on my Corsair Dominator Platinums for a test photo:
> 
> 
> 
> ... honestly it's a lighter red, not a dark shade at all since you are still using the white LED light bar and it's just a colored lens.
> 
> I use the blue lenses normally:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find it pretty odd that there's no real documentation anywhere that I can find that Corsair is sending their light bar upgrade kits out with blue, white, AND red lenses considering all the fuss ppl are raising about red not being available. The box mine came in is clearly a production retail box, and I've had them for weeks, so I dunno. I guess noone is posting pics up.
> 
> ...or I'm the only idiot that bought these things.


Thank you for the picture, and the fact that you are the only one who actually shows a, full, kit online (hopefully not the only person on earth who bought it







) i never really expected a dark red since by looking at the blue version (which is very beautiful and complimentary to your rig) it is quite obvious it couldn't be too dark of a red. at best a strong one. Nevertheless, the red does look quite good and IMO only improves the look of the Dominator Platinums in a red themed rig.

( now the real question is how worth it for me to get either a 2x4G kit or any 16G kit to replace my 16GB (2x8) G.Skill ripjaws 1333mhz which costed to me just 30$ more than a dual 8GB kit at the worst case. maybe i'll wait a bit for the upgrade kit to be a little more available (i.e. not just from Corsair directly) or to find a cheap kit online. )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gill22*
> 
> Here are some details of My Rig.
> *
> Core i7 3700k Unlocked
> Maximus V Formula
> Corsair Vengance RAM
> Intel SSD 520 Series.
> EKWB blocks Supremacy and FC670GTX with Alphacool 240MM Rad and Phobya 200MM in Front.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the build. While some might say that the black and red themes are growing old and doll, i still love them and especially the ones which have a great dark tone of red like yours. These build are being complemented and fueled by the ROG boards and the ROG boards are fueled by them. Also a breath of fresh air is to see the EK supreme LTX block (despite the HATE of CSQ) and especially those new EK angle fittings. Even though the block is CSQ it is (by the pic at least) barely noticeable, merely a hint, and the frosted effect looks to be worth it. The CSQ angle fittings look quite decent to me but i'm sure some would love them.

a few questions:
-might sound like a stupid one, but what did you use your velcro on?
-any particular reason for that GPU Slot placement?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I love photo's showing a table filled with stuff like this


What else would tables be used for?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Huizar9791*
> 
> After.


Pure awesomeness









i'ts like you upgraded to the Z77 Sabretooth board with a few bucks.

(btw, in person, how good or bad does a blue pcb motherboard look aesthetically? horrid, decent, good?)


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Fillport is on the res so with this no problems at all but as for the drainport.. its kinda gonna be hard, also evetyrhing already mounted on the testbench with some mods and kinda disapointed because ordered wrong 45 angled fittings and i need 180 degree fitting.


I ordered a couple of wrong fittings too and sold them at a loss on Fleabay. If you find some way to incorporate a drain port I used this http://koolance.com/vlv-xtsplb-drain-valve-brass It requires 2 barb or compression fitting to be complete.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Fillport is on the res so with this no problems at all but as for the drainport.. its kinda gonna be hard, also evetyrhing already mounted on the testbench with some mods and kinda disapointed because ordered wrong 45 angled fittings and i need 180 degree fitting.


Remember that not having a drainport will be a little problematic for maintenance..
I did this (you can easily do that too) in front of the pump:


----------



## mr one

gonna think how to put there a drainport. But for now im kinda stuck because there is no way how to use all water cooling in my case even externaly, and another headache is about a pump-res, they are in the same level with rad, this not gonna cause problems? i can add pic


----------



## phillyd

What do you guys recommend for a 360mm 45-50mm thick, high FPI rad? I know the GTS360 by HWLabs would be best for FPI but I despise the design. I'm looking at an Alphacool NexXxos ST360


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> According to his signature block area it is a Asus Rampage IV Gene X79


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Ahh I didn't know there was a Gene-Z


In the pic its a Gene-Z, it's a older pic, I was showing off the water block, I have the X79 version now


----------



## reath37

370.jpg 1729k .jpg file


392.jpg 53k .jpg file
heres mine soon to be rebuilt after tax come back will be changing the mobo, cpu, ram

specs as it sits:
storm trooper case( full but seems more like mid)

EVGA 780I sli W / bitspower BLACK freeze mobo W/B
Q6600 @3.5 W / enzotech luna W/B
8GB OCZ SLI ready 800mhz @5-5-5-12- t1 W / bitspower freeze W/B
2 x EVGA GTX 560 TI 448 W / EK570 W/B
1000w corsair modular
OCZ 32GB Onyx(Game Drive) Kingston 128GB SSD NOW(OS Drive) seagate 1.5 TB 7200rpm HDD(storage)
1 x 120 RAD & 3 X 120 RAD W standard 120mm colored fans temps @ about 42c(system) around the clock
gaming or not. highest temps recorded on this machine(gpu's) was 58c (after playing bf3 for 6hr straight
mcp355, rad res, Enzotech fitt, Tygon tubing

330.jpg 1755k .jpg file


333.jpg 1718k .jpg file


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> gonna think how to put there a drainport. But for now im kinda stuck because there is no way how to use all water cooling in my case even externaly, and another headache is about a pump-res, they are in the same level with rad, this not gonna cause problems? i can add pic


that cat statue... it stares into my soul...


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> that cat statue... it stares into my soul...


i had a test bench like that and i water cooled the whole thing see pic

200.jpg 57k .jpg file


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> that cat statue... it stares into my soul...


youd had to start hear voices now while looking at it


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> i had a test bench like that and i water cooled the whole thing see pic
> 
> 200.jpg 57k .jpg file


Oh, yours have a bigger amout of mounting options than mine


----------



## reath37

I had one more i wanted to show this was from last yr but it still needs to be seen i worked hard on it

THEBOX!!!

256.jpg 1879k .jpg file


257.jpg 1512k .jpg file


258.jpg 1933k .jpg file


259.jpg 1780k .jpg file


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> I had one more i wanted to show this was from last yr but it still needs to be seen i worked hard on it
> 
> THEBOX!!!
> 
> 256.jpg 1879k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 257.jpg 1512k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 258.jpg 1933k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 259.jpg 1780k .jpg file


I like this one, also i always liked much more scratch builds than heavy case modding


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> I had one more i wanted to show this was from last yr but it still needs to be seen i worked hard on it
> 
> THEBOX!!!
> 
> 256.jpg 1879k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 257.jpg 1512k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 258.jpg 1933k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 259.jpg 1780k .jpg file


Could you embed the image instead of attaching it to avoid having to download the photo to view it


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Oh, yours have a bigger amout of mounting options than mine


all of the mounting areas, brackets , everything was made to work. You are building a moded machine it is whatever
you think it should be, put it together how ever it looks the best to you. Make brackets, from plexiglass, buy screws at home depot
BUY IT, MOD IT, PLAY IT.!!!!!!!!!! (then show it off to everyone)









And no do not put your pump and res on the same level, PUMP SHOULD ALWAYS BE UNDER RES. example
Res, Pump, Gpu ,Gpu ,N/B, Ram, Cpu, Rad, Rad, back to Res (closed loop) this is my system. it works extremely
well even with OC on CPU, GPU'S, and RAM,


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Could you embed the image instead of attaching it to avoid having to download the photo to view it


sorry dont know how but would of course could you plz include some instructions plz thx


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> all of the mounting areas, brackets , everything was made to work. You are building a moded machine it is whatever
> you think it should be, put it together how ever it looks the best to you. Make brackets, from plexiglass, buy screws at home depot
> BUY IT, MOD IT, PLAY IT.!!!!!!!!!! (then show it off to everyone)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no do not put your pump and res on the same level, PUMP SHOULD ALWAYS BE UNDER RES. example
> Res, Pump, Gpu ,Gpu ,N/B, Ram, Cpu, Rad, Rad, back to Res (closed loop) this is my system. it works extremely
> well even with OC on CPU, GPU'S, and RAM,


You missundestood







i have a pump-res combo so res is on top of pump







i was ( and im still confused) about the pump-res in the same level as rad and cpu block ( i think this gonna be shortest loop i ever seen)


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> sorry dont know how but would of course could you plz include some instructions plz thx


I'm assuming you're hitting the paperclip to attach the image. Click on the picture to the left of the paperclip and a dialog box will pop up allowing you to select one or multiple images


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> You missundestood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have a pump-res combo so res is on top of pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i was ( and im still confused) about the pump-res in the same level as rad and cpu block ( i think this gonna be shortest loop i ever seen)


oh sorry misunderstood yes that's fine ive had 6 water blocks working on the same level
and three radiators ran at about 42c(system cpu cores) video cards never more than 50some
that system required more pump though two mcp355 i'll try to find picks of it


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm assuming you're hitting the paperclip to attach the image. Click on the picture to the left of the paperclip and a dialog box will pop up allowing you to select one or multiple images


thanks will use this option from now on


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> oh sorry misunderstood yes that's fine ive had 6 water blocks working on the same level
> and three radiators ran at about 42c(system cpu cores) video cards never more than 50some
> that system required more pump though two mcp355 i'll try to find picks of it


Oh great then







so gonna put tubing and fill it up tomorow


----------



## reath37

cant wait to see it done good luck:thumb:


----------



## reath37

im going to try to embed this time for THEBOX:


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Also, try editing your posts instead of double posting.









Jeffinslaw


----------



## reath37

Sorry one more maybe the mod can erase the others with attachments wink wink!
















:


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Also, try editing your posts instead of double posting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Sorry tried that and didn't seem to work will not post no more thx


----------



## HPE1000

LEARN TO EDIT YOUR POSTS!


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> LEARN TO EDIT YOUR POSTS!


Gee thx









EDIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its people like you that make it tough on people like me to post on sites like this instead of giving advice you criticize

think about what you write add some advice next time


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> Gee thx


I wasn't being mean


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> LEARN TO EDIT YOUR POSTS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gee thx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its people like you that make it tough on people like me to post on sites like this instead of giving advice you criticize
> 
> think about what you write add some advice next time
Click to expand...

There's an edit button ... He wasn't being mean, just teasing. If you don't know, just ask how


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> There's an edit button ... He wasn't being mean, just teasing. If you don't know, just ask how


I know i used it and it didn't seem to change to picks to embedded on my first post i said sorry i would not try and re post







and to the other dude yes it sounded quite sarcastic with no advice to add


----------



## reath37

lets just start over Hi yall my name is dane ive been posting on OC net since 2011
i don't post much so the in's and out's of it i am lacking and will read more to find
out the preferred practices, thanks for looking at some of my builds

Dane mesa AZ


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> lets just start over Hi yall my name is dane ive been posting on OC net since 2011
> i don't post much so the in's and out's of it i am lacking and will read more to find
> out the preferred practices, thanks for looking at some of my builds
> 
> Dane mesa AZ


----------



## reath37

Hey guys just found all the picks of the old man build (its theb









ox )


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> cant wait to see it done good luck:thumb:


Thanks







also gonna make some pics ( if im not gonna be too high after my medicine portion







)


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also gonna make some pics ( if im not gonna be too high after my medicine portion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


im always to hi from my medicine portio:thumb:n


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Oh great then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so gonna put tubing and fill it up tomorow


If you are unsure about any details I would advise hanging fire till you are certain of how you want to do it. About a day before I installed my water cooling I asked a couple of questions here and received a lot of advice which led me to radically alter my loop. I also searched through hundred of photo's of water cooling loops.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> If you are unsure about any details I would advise hanging fire till you are certain of how you want to do it. About a day before I installed my water cooling I asked a couple of questions here and received a lot of advice which led me to radically alter my loop. I also searched through hundred of photo's of water cooling loops.


I think ill try as planned today after i received my parts to lay that loop down on testbench temporary . And finaly when i get my case done from aluminium ill redo it







or maybe ill be lucky tomorow and i will get a new testbench that has more options to mount hardware


----------



## reath37

you should be fine these are my temps only with basically 1- 4x120 rad.

jpeg.bmp 6075k .bmp file


jpeg1.bmp 6075k .bmp file


----------



## reath37

Oh sht i just got through with my taxes for 2012
3,000 dollars yeah i can see new gear in my future


----------



## phillyd

3k? Get a 3820, triple 7970 water cooled rig in an awesome case. plus SSD's


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 3k? Get a 3820, triple 7970 water cooled rig in an awesome case. plus SSD's


Why would you want a 3820...


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Why would you want a 3820...


Why not?


----------



## dartuil

men what loop u prefer?

http://www.hiboox.fr/go/images/informatique/mouais2,d2e8fb1e6a5ab0d32d750a389083e216.jpg.html

http://www.hiboox.fr/go/images/informatique/mouais,4caf2685372298bfbdd94a4639d655b6.jpg.html

I cant cut my HDD cage I have so much HDD's
Thank you


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Why would you want a 3820...
> 
> 
> 
> Why not?
Click to expand...

Locked multiplier?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> men what loop u prefer?
> 
> http://www.hiboox.fr/go/images/informatique/mouais2,d2e8fb1e6a5ab0d32d750a389083e216.jpg.html
> 
> http://www.hiboox.fr/go/images/informatique/mouais,4caf2685372298bfbdd94a4639d655b6.jpg.html
> 
> I cant cut my HDD cage I have so much HDD's
> Thank you


If the only difference is an extra 120 rad, include the damn rad! !!!!

PS. You're not the only Frenchman here


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Locked multiplier?



http://valid.canardpc.com/2672781

Carry on..


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Locked multiplier?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2672781
> 
> Carry on..
Click to expand...

Multiplier is locked to 43***********

Not ideal for extreme overclocking







That 3820 is golden for overclocking to 125 BLCK. Is it stable at that speed?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Multiplier is locked to 43***********
> 
> Not ideal for extreme overclocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That 3820 is golden for overclocking to 125 BLCK. Is it stable at that speed?


Yup. I can get it stable at 150 BLCK on low multi's.

But I'm getting 5.1 and I still have room on the multiplyer. Going for a 3820 also offers a great upgrade path to a Hex Ivy-E when they get launched.


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> men what loop u prefer?
> 
> http://www.hiboox.fr/go/images/informatique/mouais2,d2e8fb1e6a5ab0d32d750a389083e216.jpg.html
> 
> http://www.hiboox.fr/go/images/informatique/mouais,4caf2685372298bfbdd94a4639d655b6.jpg.html
> 
> I cant cut my HDD cage I have so much HDD's
> Thank you


the one in her shirt (your avitar)


----------



## phillyd

Yeah 4.8+GHz on water is no problem for a 3820 by what I've seen.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Yeah 4.8+GHz on water is no problem for a 3820 by what I've seen.


They do run super hot still. My chip runs 4.875 for every day use and that peaks at 54C delta.


----------



## dmanstasiu

I stand corrected


----------



## phillyd

But yeah I wish I had gone with X79 and a 3820. Stupid Ivy Bridge.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> But yeah I wish I had gone with X79 and a 3820. Stupid Ivy Bridge.


i concur.
(now i fear that the delided ivy club will slowly lean me towards killing my cpu)


----------



## LayerCakes

Oh. A 3820 is also cheaper than a 3770K


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 3k? Get a 3820, triple 7970 water cooled rig in an awesome case. plus SSD's


No i wish im going for the
ASRock OC formula (the yellow sux but will try to hide most of it )
3770k
32GB G.skill ripjaw X 2133mhz 4x8gb


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Oh. A 3820 is also cheaper than a 3770K


What_________ but its locked rite


----------



## phillyd

We just had this discussion







it can get 5GHz or so under water.


----------



## LayerCakes

It clocks amazingly. Well my Costa does anyway. You also get the much stronger IMC that supports quad channel up to 64GB and more cache.

For less money..


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> We just had this discussion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it can get 5GHz or so under water.


i know that that's not what i ask the multiplier is locked so your using the fsb yes


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> It clocks amazingly. Well my Costa does anyway. You also get the much stronger IMC that supports quad channel up to 64GB and more cache.
> 
> For less money..


i think ill look at the 3820 instead then thx


----------



## King4x4

So can an Ivy!

Delid it first and a [email protected] => [email protected]

However,

[email protected] => [email protected]

Which one is easier to gain?


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> It clocks amazingly. Well my Costa does anyway. You also get the much stronger IMC that supports quad channel up to 64GB and more cache.
> 
> For less money..


ok im going for the 3820 then thx sorry didnt see the other post go through
and i think i'll add another gtx560 ti 448 to my mix makeing it three way sli:thumb:


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> i know that that's not what i ask the multiplier is locked so your using the fsb yes


It's unlocked to 44, which if you know what you're doing, isn't an issue at all


----------



## kyismaster

its all about that quad 16 core amd's


----------



## reath37

hell i dont know what i want but i will in about 10 days


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> It's unlocked to 44, which if you know what you're doing, isn't an issue at all


thx, i like the 3820 its not ivy bridge though is it? and will that affect the speed of my system?
im not going to be using one of the gen 3 cards anyway so i guess itn wont matter much
im looking to unleash all three 560"S and let them run i don't want any bottle necks when im
done:thumb:


----------



## kcuestag

This is the water cooling thread, not the overclocking thread.


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> This is the water cooling thread, not the overclocking thread.


10-4 boss man
hey what does everyone think of the water cooling on the ASrock OC formula
i Fingered about 750 for new parts and the ASrock OC formula already has a block
on the motset and vrms it sounds like a prity good board for my build paired
with the 3820 and 32gb corsair dominator 2133(witch i think will work with my
bitspower ram cooler yeh)


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> 10-4 boss man
> hey what does everyone think of the water cooling on the ASrock OC formula
> i Fingered about 750 for new parts and the ASrock OC formula already has a block
> on the motset and vrms it sounds like a prity good board for my build paired
> with the 3820 and 32gb corsair dominator 2133(witch i think will work with my
> bitspower ram cooler yeh)


There's no point putting ram under water though. I've got 32GB at 2400MHz on just the stock heat spreaders no problem


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> But yeah I wish I had gone with X79 and a 3820. Stupid Ivy Bridge.


Meh 3770k delidded pwns a 3820...


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> There's no point putting ram under water though. I've got 32GB at 2400MHz on just the stock heat spreaders no problem


yeah but when does making any sense have to do with water cooling its all about the bling my whole system will run on air
but i still water cool everything on the board and i was talking about the mofset and vrms water cooling sulution on the
asrock i want to buy i just ment the holes mite line up for the cooler i already have


----------



## dartuil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Locked multiplier?
> If the only difference is an extra 120 rad, include the damn rad! !!!!
> 
> PS. You're not the only Frenchman here


ooh you a frenchman








I feel less lonely

so i'll add two 120 rads


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Meh 3770k delidded pwns a 3820...


Unfortunately we can't all afford to void warranties and risk killing our CPU's. SB-E has far better heat transfer to the lid anyway as Intel didn't waste time with TIM and soldered the lid to the chip.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> yeah but when does making any sense have to do with water cooling its all about the bling my whole system will run on air
> but i still water cool everything on the board and i was talking about the mofset and vrms water cooling sulution on the
> asrock i want to buy i just ment the holes mite line up for the cooler i already have


Just saying, the 3820 is a 2011 chip and isn't going to fit in that 1155 OC Formula..


----------



## XerTo

http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=120220132188a5kkl.jpg


----------



## dmanstasiu

wow


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Unfortunately we can't all afford to void warranties and risk killing our CPU's. SB-E has far better heat transfer to the lid anyway as Intel didn't waste time with TIM and soldered the lid to the chip.


Sorry to tell you reports are all Intel chips will use Tim from now on..

Also it only voids your warranty if your stupid about it









And it is the glue and distance to the IHS as the cause of temps.. TIM has nothing to do with it... A de lidded IB chip runs quite cool and uses less power and generates less heat.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Sorry to tell you reports are all Intel chips will use Tim from now on..
> 
> Also it only voids your warranty if your stupid about it


All Sandy E chips use solder instead, thats why you never see people deliding them.

And I don't think intel would RMA a faulty chip if you've taken the lid off and cleaned away the glue. Got a feeling they might notice.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> All Sandy E chips use solder instead, thats why you never see people deliding them.
> 
> And I don't think intel would RMA a faulty chip if you've taken the lid off and cleaned away the glue. Got a feeling they might notice.


Old SB yes from IB on all TIM.... Meaning Haswell Broadwell etc..

And no Intel does not notice if you rma a de lidded chip if your smart about it..


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XerTo*
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=120220132188a5kkl.jpg


Build log here on OCN nowwwwww!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> ...


----------



## LayerCakes

It does void the warranty, but you can get away with it then..

How exactly can you be 'smart about it'?


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Just saying, the 3820 is a 2011 chip and isn't going to fit in that 1155 OC Formula..


gotcha didnt see that just looking at z77 thxs i feel stupid

that's why i said in the op i wanted the 3770 then someone started talking about this other chip being faster better clocker cheaper extra,
anyway what do you think of the "board" and yes ill have to go back to the 3770k thats cool
i need the most advice about boards i am a water cooler i will def be water cooling the new board
even if i have to glue the blocks to the board as they will never be removed anyway so the best board
in the 200 range i will be useing a 3770k,


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> gotcha didnt see that just looking at z77 thxs i feel stupid


No problem!


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Build log here on OCN nowwwwww!
> 
> Jeffinslaw










my mouth is watering rite now


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Build log here on OCN nowwwwww!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


thats a really cool looking start to your build
i like builds with multiple res's will they be different colors?
and two loops of corse.


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*


wheres the psu?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> It does void the warranty, but you can get away with it then..
> 
> How exactly can you be 'smart about it'?


I think hes hinting about super gluing the IHS back on lol.

oh, btw, 6 core > 4 core


----------



## HPE1000

The 3820 isnt a 6 core like the 3970x if that is what you are thinking.


----------



## phillyd

Too hot for water cooling.

wat


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've seen far too many 3770K delids go bad wrong right here on OCN. No thanks, SB-E all the way!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> The 3820 isnt a 6 core like the 3970x if that is what you are thinking.


i never said it was lol.

SBE>ivy


----------



## nleksan

Hey guys, I could use some help, as I am pulling my hair out with this!

I am trying to get my EK Res to XSPC Bay Res Tubing connected now that I've added a fill-port, but I cannot for the life of me seem to get it right!







The way it's setup, going "backwards" from the XSPC res out, is: Bitspower Rotary Extension Fitting, 15mm Extension Fitting, Swiftech T-Block (with 45deg Rotary Comp with the tubing running up to the fillport), and then the last G1/4 port of the T-block is where I am hoping to be able to connect the EK Res' tubing to, using either a 45deg Rotary Comp or a regular Comp.

The EK res top requires the use of at least a short extension fitting, as you can't put 1/2x3/4 Comps directly into the top outlets, and the shortest I have are the XSPC 10mm Extensions.

I have had some alternative ideas....

- Use a Swiftech 2-3Slot SLI Fitting connected to the top of the EK Res, fully extend it, and have a Q-block attached to the end of the SLI Fitting, allowing the tubing to run more-or-less straight from there into the XSPC Res, while the fill-port tubing would just not be as well hidden?

I am just really having a hard time with this! I have gone through half a dozen cuts of tubing trying to get the length "perfect" so that it will fit over the comps on both ends, but now I am actually running out of tubing so I don't have many more screw-ups left!

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i never said it was lol.
> 
> *SBE>ivy*
> where Did I ever mention AMD? lol
> 
> AMD won't put out the power I need


Only when encoding multi workloads everything else Ivy > IB-E

If your just buying SB-E to game and web surf.. Ivy- SB-E.. and u wasted alot of money in the process.

If you take advantage of the 4 extra threads then SB-E all day long...

Me i rather have the newer Chipset and faster IPC .. I could own any SB-E chip i wanted.. But id never make use of the 4 extra threads.. and i perfer the faster IPC any day of the week.. So i have a 3770k...

But i will also be getting haswell... in June or what ever for the IPC...


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i never said it was lol.
> 
> SBE>ivy
> where Did I ever mention AMD? lol
> 
> never mind hey i just got through reading some on the MSI big bang z77 for my
> 3770k cant make up my mind ASRock, MSI, gigbyte, asus???????????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should make a poll what does everyone think what board would you buy if you
> could do it all over today would you keep the board you chose or go for something elts
> any body


----------



## gill22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Love the build. While some might say that the black and red themes are growing old and doll, i still love them and especially the ones which have a great dark tone of red like yours. These build are being complemented and fueled by the ROG boards and the ROG boards are fueled by them. Also a breath of fresh air is to see the EK supreme LTX block (despite the HATE of CSQ) and especially those new EK angle fittings. Even though the block is CSQ it is (by the pic at least) barely noticeable, merely a hint, and the frosted effect looks to be worth it. The CSQ angle fittings look quite decent to me but i'm sure some would love them.
> 
> a few questions:
> -might sound like a stupid one, but what did you use your velcro on?
> -any particular reason for that GPU Slot placement?


I Used Velcro to attach the ssd to the case..worked pretty well.. and also for one wraps instead of zip ties for the cable management.

- Not really a particular reason. I was under the impression that both slots are x16 electrically and to prevent kinking and from stressing the tubing I just place my card in there...later found out that its running at x8..lol nothing that I can do afterwards as i didn't wanted to drain the loop cut the tubing and fill it again..but did a research and found out that it doesn't really affect performance that much. I would be buying another 670 anyways when the prices go down a bit.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> There's no point putting ram under water though. I've got 32GB at 2400MHz on just the stock heat spreaders no problem


First of all, aesthetics. Ram blocks look absolutely awesome.
Second, it indeed cools down your ram (check for tests) more than the 50% without increasing the complete loop temp (1-2C° max), that said a lot of heat won't spread to the whole case.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Use a Swiftech 2-3Slot SLI Fitting connected to the top of the EK Res, fully extend it, and have a Q-block attached to the end of the SLI Fitting, allowing the tubing to run more-or-less straight from there into the XSPC Res, while the fill-port tubing would just not be as well hidden?


try this


----------



## wermad

I've noticed some EK blocks are labeled "+". Anyone know what this means? (extras, new pcb design, etc.???)


----------



## Jakusonfire

According to my local EK dealer the + on the GTX680+ refers to the block design being slightly refined to accomodate a couple of very minor PCB changes on some graphics cards. It will fit the full refernce 680 + one that is very close but slightly custom.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> This is the water cooling thread, not the overclocking thread.


i7 3820 Overclock is where it is at


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> According to my local EK dealer the + on the GTX680+ refers to the block design being slightly refined to accomodate a couple of very minor PCB changes on some graphics cards. It will fit the full refernce 680 + one that is very close but slightly custom.


Thank you good sir


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XerTo*
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=120220132188a5kkl.jpg


That is going to be a nice build


----------



## Huizar9791

UPGRADE.


----------



## Fieel

Nice case huize, but i'd rather prefer to see the hardware and not that strange matte:thumb:


----------



## MiiX

With a AC Monsta 280, will BGears B-Blasters 140 be good enough? Or does it "need" more Power?


----------



## mr one

got alphacool 360mm rad with penetrated channels. lol how dumb guys was that managed to penetrate them even with that protection.....


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> got alphacool 360mm rad with penetrated channels. lol how dumb guys was that managed to penetrate them even with that protection.....


Drill bit?








He probably got fed up with the crappy M3 threads and tried to make some new ones.
I've changed a few threads that totally gave up from M3 to 6-32.
Love the rads. Don't like the threads. The small head on the M3's will almost pull into some fans.....I use washers on mine.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Drill bit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He probably got fed up with the crappy M3 threads and tried to make some new ones.
> I've changed a few threads that totally gave up from M3 to 6-32.
> Love the rads. Don't like the threads. The small head on the M3's will almost pull into some fans.....I use washers on mine.


i have pics of that penetrated areas, one is really looking bad because channel is kinda ripped trough in half of it, another has a small hole and it seems thats all places woth fixing it







solder them will be a some kind of mission with 2 percent of success because they are at corners and thoose places damn hard to reach. Phone pics
Edit: just had a thought that maybe just cut thoose two penetrated rows and squeeze them and solder ends?


----------



## LayerCakes

Can someone recommend a good TIM to transfer LOTS of heat from my 5GHz Sandy-E?


----------



## Evertos

My latest build. CPU only at the moment will add a GPU loop when I get a second card and the money for the blocks.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Can someone recommend a good TIM to transfer LOTS of heat from my 5GHz Sandy-E?


ProlimaTech PK1 is what I use. Good performance, easy application, reasonable price.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Can someone recommend a good TIM to transfer LOTS of heat from my 5GHz Sandy-E?


http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5

Chocolate is a definite no-no.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evertos*
> 
> My latest build. CPU only at the moment will add a GPU loop when I get a second card and the money for the blocks.


you should probably get more rad as well


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5
> 
> Chocolate is a definite no-no.


Even worst than no thermal compound at all D:


----------



## Cocosalsa

First water cooling loop so any comments or critique could be helpful. I do have a question though. Whats the best way to make a drainage system? After building it all I realized I didn't have an efficient way to drain it.









Also would adding another graphics card to the loop raise temps by too much? Im working with about 480mm of rad space. Only things going to be overclocked are the gpus.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> try this


I have, I just really hate how it looks :/ It seems very visually "disruptive", at least to me. I will try and take a pic of that method vs the prior pics.

Any other suggestions? (I have no more 90deg Elbow Rotary fittings, but plenty of 45's and misc others)


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5
> 
> Chocolate is a definite no-no.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Even worst than no thermal compound at all D:


Mayonnaise, on the other hand, apparently has pretty good heat transfer properties. It's a 3C difference between Mayo and the top performing TIMs


----------



## Pawelr98

I need help with choosing new pump for loop upgrade.
You think that Phobya 12V-260 is enough for loop with 2 waterblocks(mnp poseidon + heatkiller 6990) and 3rads (360mm + 2x 120mm rads) ?
I just need a quiet pump that can handle the loop.


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I need help with choosing new pump for loop upgrade.
> You think that Phobya 12V-260 is enough for loop with 2 waterblocks(mnp poseidon + heatkiller 6990) and 3rads (360mm + 2x 120mm rads) ?
> I just need a quiet pump that can handle the loop.


some will say different im sure because of the bling effect but nice cheap mcp355 pumps will
deliver a 25FT head That means it will easily push through a mufti block system i have 6 blocks
and two rads and im only using 1 but i am going to up it to two so i can use the xspc dbl top clear
anyway thats my pick. cheap, amazing performance, very small foot print,


----------



## mr one

Why you guys didnt said that this thing gives so much pain in head, fingers and so much agression when something wrong?







so just finished bubble bleeding and now leaktesting my loop from the third time, first two was a pain because T piece i brought today got me some really nasty leaks and i dont know why







Also compared how silent my sistem gonna be now with previous air cooling setup i say see ya later air cooling







pics coming after i finish leak testing


----------



## PCModderMike

EK is asking for everyone's opinion....those who want to have their voice heard should think about voting.
http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/satin-or-clear-acrylic-choose-it
http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/new-cpu-block-top-design---choose-your-best


----------



## brian1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 3k? Get a 3820, triple 7970 water cooled rig in an awesome case. plus SSD's


Can you really get all that + water cooling for 3k??? seems low to me


----------



## phillyd

Idk It might have to be kinda bare-bones aside from the core components.


----------



## smex




----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> EK is asking for everyone's opinion....those who want to have their voice heard should think about voting.
> http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/satin-or-clear-acrylic-choose-it
> http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/new-cpu-block-top-design---choose-your-best


Good move EK. Make sure the public choose them!


----------



## morencyam

Don't know why they didn't do this in the first place. Could have avoid the crop circles altogether. I cast my vote though, so let's see what happens


----------



## mr one

Pics of my first loop


----------



## protzman

those black blocks are so ugly! @ the ek post not your haha ^


----------



## wermad

I voted for the first group









If they do go with any changes, it won't be for upcoming gpu models and blocks. sucks









I have a csq 7970 sitting next to me doing nothing. Its not bad but its not great.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> ...


Like that routing with your MVF. Please, have a look http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/35200_100#post_19010793


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I voted for the firs group
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they do go with any changes, it won't be for upcoming gpu models and blocks. sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a csq 7970 sitting next to me doing nothing. Its not bad but its not great.


You can send it to me if you want, I'll put it to good use









Has anyone used the EK fittings?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_365&products_id=28402

Any issues with them? What size is the best to work with? I had 1/2 3/4 in the past and it was too thick. I was thinking 3/8 5/8.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Has anyone used the EK fittings?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_365&products_id=28402
> 
> Any issues with them? What size is the best to work with? I had 1/2 3/4 in the past and it was too thick. I was thinking 3/8 5/8.


They're pretty good ones. better then some budget ones like xspc. I love 3/8x5/8, its not too big so you can clear things easily (like Monsta rads). They also blend in better on adapter-fittings. And there's no temp difference btw.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> You can send it to me if you want, I'll put it to good use


sent yah a pm buddy


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5
> 
> Chocolate is a definite no-no.


Lovely how much flack I took for buying Ceramique at the local Radio Shack and lo and behold it actually outperforms MX-4! Well how about that!


----------



## BiaBia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lovely how much flack I took for buying Ceramique at the local Radio Shack and lo and behold it actually outperforms MX-4! Well how about that!


Absolutely one of my favorite TIMs, the no conductivity makes it awesome for MOSFET paste, I get much better results with it over thermal pads.


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Pics of my first loop


your backwards your putting hot water in the pump turn it around so you go res, pump, cpu, radiator, res:thumb:


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> your backwards your putting hot water in the pump turn it around so you go res, pump, cpu, radiator, res:thumb:


He has it the right way around, RAD>CPU or GPU. Loop order does not matter that much anyway.


----------



## KaRLiToS




----------



## grimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


sick man i love the color got a build log?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lovely how much flack I took for buying Ceramique at the local Radio Shack and lo and behold it actually outperforms MX-4! Well how about that!


I'm still rocking ceramique. I bought the large syringe and I have yet to finish it up. Still performs well imho, but i'm looking forward to something newer and better once I run out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


I've always been curious why members pose their action-figures with their rigs? Not making fun, just curious







. Gonna look for my Deathscythe from Hell Custom, put her together, and take pics too


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> sick man i love the color got a build log?


EVERYTHING is in the Spoiler TABS in the build log thread.

*QUAD DAMAGE Project* _Fully watercooled and Heavily Modded_



Spoiler: YouTube Name: BaSiLLiSKoS






Spoiler: Day Vid of Setup!













Spoiler: Night Vid of Setup!













Spoiler: Hitman: Absolution!













Spoiler: Dirt Showdown!













Spoiler: Call Of Duty: Black Ops 2!













Spoiler: Battlefield 3 !














Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've always been curious why members pose their action-figures with their rigs? Not making fun, just curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gonna look for my Deathscythe from Hell Custom, put her together, and take pics too


Its the only one I had since i'm a kid, I'm not a figurine guy. My girlfriend bought it for Christmas because she notice I was always playing Borderlands 2. When I openned my present and saw that Bandit figurine, I finally felt like a nerd. I just wanted to be like others.









Usually the figurine is located on this shelf.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> 
> 
> sick man i love the color got a build log?
Click to expand...

Learn to check sigs

http://www.overclock.net/t/1311300/build-log-project-quad-damage-warning-many-pictures/0_30


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> He has it the right way around, RAD>CPU or GPU. Loop order does not matter that much anyway.


BS lets see how long your pump last going from your
cpu, and gpu directly to the pump will shorten its life believe me ive done it:thumb::


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gill22*
> 
> I Used Velcro to attach the ssd to the case..worked pretty well.. and also for one wraps instead of zip ties for the cable management.
> 
> - Not really a particular reason. I was under the impression that both slots are x16 electrically and to prevent kinking and from stressing the tubing I just place my card in there...later found out that its running at x8..lol nothing that I can do afterwards as i didn't wanted to drain the loop cut the tubing and fill it again..but did a research and found out that it doesn't really affect performance that much. I would be buying another 670 anyways when the prices go down a bit.


Actually, the 8x electrically won't change anything because it's PCI-E 3.0 which means that it is equal to PCI-E 2.0 16x. (and no single gpu graphics card yet has benefited from the full length of PCI-E 3.0)
the only time you'd have to worry is when using a triple setup since it would be 8x/4x/4x but even then since it is PCI-E 3.0 you have nothing to worry about. (up till now most GPU have barely any hiccups at the PCI-E 2.0 speeds, and even then they are minuscule)

but going into the waiting game for a 670 might be a dangerous adventure to the faint of heart








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> First of all, aesthetics. Ram blocks look absolutely awesome.
> Second, it indeed cools down your ram (check for tests) more than the 50% without increasing the complete loop temp (1-2C° max), that said a lot of heat won't spread to the whole case.


RAM blocks are always pretty! which are you getting?

also, what looks better? a RAM block or Corsair's Dominator Platinums (2 or for dimms) with the light bar upgrade kit? (Either red, white or blue)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Mayonnaise, on the other hand, apparently has pretty good heat transfer properties. It's a 3C difference between Mayo and the top performing TIMs


it's all about taste








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*


i remember this build way back when it begun. it has been a staple and The Example for many loops and beginners and it still is.

(btw, how do you manage dust in that build?)


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> BS lets see how long your pump last going from your
> cpu, and gpu directly to the pump will shorten its life believe me ive done it:thumb::


Guys guys calm down i ran out of tubing so no more changes till i get pink one







also water even dont get hot at all and oh man how i missed that quiet pc stuff







also getting 30 on idle, and i need to do something because i click bios kinda not so everyday stuff i think to monitor temps







maybe someone has a solution for a funky fm2 apu how to monitor temps? overdrive dont help with this too


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> EVERYTHING is in the Spoiler TABS in the build log thread.
> Its the only one I had since i'm a kid, I'm not a figurine guy. My girlfriend bought it for Christmas because she notice I was always playing Borderlands 2. When I openned my present and saw that Bandit figurine, I finally felt like a nerd. I just wanted to be like others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Usually the figurine is located on this shelf.


Maximum poster!!! Cool g/f









You gonna go Titan? Ugh, I wish amd (or someone!!!) would release this mst hub!!!! Had a chance to pick up some nice and cheap ips screens for a possible 5x1 setup.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i remember this build way back when it begun. it has been a staple and The Example for many loops and beginners and it still is.
> 
> (btw, *how do you manage dust in that build*?)


I have dust filters on ALL intakes, I use an air compressor every 3-4 months to clean all dust that could get inside. I also use a humid linth free cloth on surface to remove small dust film, this rig is always kept extremely clean.



*Quick History of this Case* My personnal best color theme is with white tubing



Spoiler: From Begginning to Quad Damage!



This Case was born during socket LGA 775 (its an old case







) It never saw the light or water though



Rampage III extreme, i7 930 and single 5850 (Yet, he put up another socket (1366)



Second 5850 (first time crossfiring)



Added a 5870 (5870 / 5850/ 5850 ), flip the bottom radiator, and added a third radiator (480mm)





That old 800D is having a third socket (now with socket 2011







) (GPU: 3 x 6970)



And Now, the most professionnal thing I have done with a PC up to now, I don't know if I can do better. I think next creation will be a kid...(according to my girlfriend)







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You gonna go Titan? Ugh, I wish amd (or someone!!!) would release this mst hub!!!! Had a chance to pick up some nice and cheap ips screens for a possible 5x1 setup.


I don't know about the Titan, I don't know how my brain, nerd spirit, wallet and girldfriend will react









.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> BS lets see how long your pump last going from your
> cpu, and gpu directly to the pump will shorten its life believe me ive done it:thumb::


Ha! what do you think the difference in temperature of the water will be coming out of the radiator vs going in?


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> BS lets see how long your pump last going from your
> cpu, and gpu directly to the pump will shorten its life believe me ive done it:thumb::


Thats how I have done it for all my loops. Never had a problem. How much heat do you think here is?


----------



## BiaBia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> BS lets see how long your pump last going from your
> cpu, and gpu directly to the pump will shorten its life believe me ive done it:thumb::


The water in the radiator is probably about 1-2c cooler at most then the water coming out of the CPU block. Not to mention that the water from the cpu block is going to mix with the water in the res which will cool it down slightly too, but still really doesn't matter. You are talking very minimal differences here. Water doesn't heat up or cool down that quickly


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've seen far too many 3770K delids go bad wrong right here on OCN. No thanks, SB-E all the way!


That's what I did. After reading about it, I didn't think I could delid it right, so I sold off my Ivy bridge system, bought a RIVE, and fed it six cores!!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I have dust filters on ALL intakes, I use an air compressor every 3-4 months to clean all dust that could get inside. I also use a humid linth free cloth on surface to remove small dust film, this rig is always kept extremely clean.
> 
> 
> 
> *Quick History of this Case* My personnal best color theme is with white tubing
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: From Begginning to Quad Damage!
> 
> 
> 
> This Case was born during socket LGA 775 (its an old case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) It never saw the light or water though
> 
> 
> 
> Rampage III extreme, i7 930 and single 5850 (Yet, he put up another socket (1366)
> 
> 
> 
> Second 5850 (first time crossfiring)
> 
> 
> 
> Added a 5870 (5870 / 5850/ 5850 ), flip the bottom radiator, and added a third radiator (480mm)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That old 800D is having a third socket (now with socket 2011
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) (GPU: 3 x 6970)
> 
> 
> 
> And Now, the most professionnal thing I have done with a PC up to now, I don't know if I can do better. I think next creation will be a kid...(according to my girlfriend)
> 
> 
> 
> .


(technology wise of the earliest component) this represents almost a full decade of PC history. i think that through that build you came a full circle (for a single build at least, the money pit can be deep enough for more







) that many on OCN either try to achieve or at least reach some of the middle to final stages.

___
Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas on *this fan*? (except using it as a professional tool for cutting fingers







)
how noisy would one be (full 12v or controlled) and how would a 280 rad perform with these against a 360 rad?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Only when encoding multi workloads everything else Ivy > IB-E
> 
> If your just buying SB-E to game and web surf.. Ivy- SB-E.. and u wasted alot of money in the process.
> 
> If you take advantage of the 4 extra threads then SB-E all day long...
> 
> Me i rather have the newer Chipset and faster IPC .. I could own any SB-E chip i wanted.. But id never make use of the 4 extra threads.. and i perfer the faster IPC any day of the week.. So i have a 3770k...
> 
> But i will also be getting haswell... in June or what ever for the IPC...


'

F @ H


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Thats how I have done it for all my loops. Never had a problem. How much heat do you think here is?


its called common sens:thumb:e


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Guys guys calm down i ran out of tubing so no more changes till i get pink one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also water even dont get hot at all and oh man how i missed that quiet pc stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also getting 30 on idle, and i need to do something because i click bios kinda not so everyday stuff i think to monitor temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe someone has a solution for a funky fm2 apu how to monitor temps? overdrive dont help with this too


Depends how accurate you want the temps. My mobo has a digital readout of the CPU temp (via the Debug LED) but I have 2 of the probes from my Lamptron fan controller stuck to the GPU's of my GTX 690 and one taped to the back of the CPU area. Not very accurate but close enough to keep me happy.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> BS lets see how long your pump last going from your
> cpu, and gpu directly to the pump will shorten its life believe me ive done it:thumb::


I've had my pump after the CPU and two GPUs, with the res in between of course, for almost two years and haven't had a single problem. There is only a 2C difference between the water temp before the rads and water temp after the rads. Temps equalize throughout the loop over time so there isn't one part of the loop that is significantly hotter than another
If that were the case then why don't the pumps in AIO units or the Apogee Drive burn up from being directly over the hots part of the loop. It would have to take a significant amount of heat to do any damage to the pump.


----------



## nleksan

Keep in mind that pumps ADD heat to the water (D5's more so than DDC's)... Considering the way these pumps are designed and built, I HIGHLY doubt that even a 3-5C difference in water temperature (which is more than anyone would likely have) would shorten the lifespan of the pump.

The one thing that IS crucial to having your pump last a long time, aside from never running it dry, is AIRFLOW! There are heatsinks for DDC pumps for a reason, and they really do work! I have one of the Swiftech MCP35X-HS for the 35X I am currently running (have 2; just don't have the dual-top yet), and the difference is significant, especially with an 80x15mm 28CFM fan attached to it. According to the IR Thermometer I have, it dropped the temps from ~54C to 36.5C just by adding the HS, and then down to 28.5C with the fan! A 50% drop in temps is almost a guaranteed increased lifespan.

However, you don't NEED to get the Swiftech/Koolance DDC Heatsink, you can fashion your own if you have an old CPU HSF lying around. Simply use a Dremel (or a saw) to cut it to shape, drill the four mounting points, and use a decent-sized thermal pad to adhere it to the bottom of the pump. Alternatively, you could use something like the EnzoTech SB/NB C110 Copper Heatsinks, which are a bit small (I think around 45mm*45mm?) but the copper should more than make up for it.

Regardless, there is no reason NOT to have a cool-running DDC, and if your pump fails from overheating, well, you can't put that blame on anyone or anything else....


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas on *this fan*? (except using it as a professional tool for cutting fingers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> how noisy would one be (full 12v or controlled) and how would a 280 rad perform with these against a 360 rad?


Psh, that fan's not that impressive. Get yourself a Nidec Beta-V 120x38mm - it can do 130CFM at 3,200rpm - sound rating at full blower is 47.2dB. That will chop fingers, I know from experience.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> Psh, that fan's not that impressive. Get yourself a Nidec Beta-V 120x38mm - it can do 130CFM at 3,200rpm - sound rating at full blower is 47.2dB. That will chop fingers, I know from experience.


Youch ! but metal blades can be sharpened (scary thought no?)

btw, i had the worst idea of a contest to win a 3K rig: Stop The Fan! (just terrible







)


----------



## phillyd

Pshhh...get a 38x120mm 10k RPM delta


----------



## Idef1x

Just got my new Alphacool 3x180 installed in my FT02 to replace my Magicool 540.. That is one tight fit! I Hope to post some pics and temps soon.


----------



## lowfat

Watercooled my bench.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evertos*
> 
> My latest build. CPU only at the moment will add a GPU loop when I get a second card and the money for the blocks.


Nice Eleven Hundred... I wish my 590 was small enough to fit a thick 240 Monsta like that next to it... And how are your temps?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Just got my new Alphacool 3x180 installed in my FT02 to replace my Magicool 540.. That is one tight fit! I Hope to post some pics and temps soon.


I want pictures, didn't know Alphachool had a 540mm rad, is it better than the Magicool?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Watercooled my bench.


What coolant is that ?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What coolant is that ?


Some distilled w/ a bunch of Mayhems deep blue. It looks a lot darker in person.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Watercooled my bench.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!








All you need now is a nice case for it.
Just Kidding


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Keep in mind that pumps ADD heat to the water (D5's more so than DDC's)... Considering the way these pumps are designed and built, I HIGHLY doubt that even a 3-5C difference in water temperature (which is more than anyone would likely have) would shorten the lifespan of the pump.
> 
> The one thing that IS crucial to having your pump last a long time, aside from never running it dry, is AIRFLOW! There are heatsinks for DDC pumps for a reason, and they really do work! I have one of the Swiftech MCP35X-HS for the 35X I am currently running (have 2; just don't have the dual-top yet), and the difference is significant, especially with an 80x15mm 28CFM fan attached to it. According to the IR Thermometer I have, it dropped the temps from ~54C to 36.5C just by adding the HS, and then down to 28.5C with the fan! A 50% drop in temps is almost a guaranteed increased lifespan.
> 
> However, you don't NEED to get the Swiftech/Koolance DDC Heatsink, you can fashion your own if you have an old CPU HSF lying around. Simply use a Dremel (or a saw) to cut it to shape, drill the four mounting points, and use a decent-sized thermal pad to adhere it to the bottom of the pump. Alternatively, you could use something like the EnzoTech SB/NB C110 Copper Heatsinks, which are a bit small (I think around 45mm*45mm?) but the copper should more than make up for it.
> 
> Regardless, there is no reason NOT to have a cool-running DDC, and if your pump fails from overheating, well, you can't put that blame on anyone or anything else....


Watercool the pump!


----------



## WaitWhat

Does anyone have an XSPC Razer GTX680 water block with the new design? Was thinking about getting it for when I add my GPU to the loop

Unless anyone recommends a 680 water block?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Does anyone have an XSPC Razer GTX680 water block with the new design? Was thinking about getting it for when I add my GPU to the loop
> 
> Unless anyone recommends a 680 water block?


I've been told the new Razors 680 are really good







. I'm in the market for some 680 blocks. XSPC is a great choice if you want to save a bit of money and want to jazz up your block with some tasty led touch lighting









HK, AC, Alphacool, EK, EVGA, etc. should perform very similar


----------



## protzman

My approach is hey if it matches get it haha


----------



## Fieel

I have to do something for the copper Alphacool logo in all their radiators.. it doesn't matches my colors at all, i'd rather have it chromed but not copper damn.



(Will replace the copper screws asap of course).


----------



## MCCSolutions

Got some more stuff for you today water cooling OCN......... I tested my 3 XSPC 360mm Radiators today with my high pressure pump, and my two EX360's did great with a 50PSI test but my RS360 RAD exploded lol. I was however able to solder the leaks and I painted and Baked it with some other parts after painting and will test it later for leaks once its dry. I am very satisfied with the results of my test though and will be using the pump, and if I do reuse the repaired RAD I will defiantly have it on the bottom of the case lol.


----------



## MCCSolutions

WELL LOOKS LIKE IT PASSED THE TEST ALL DRY NO LEAKS AND A CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH!!! I think im gonna still use it but im defenately going to keep an eye on it and I think im only gonna use it with 1/4" ID fittings and tubing and use it with my two H70's on the graphics card. They have the same size tubing and fittings so it wont restrict, the smaller diameter will lower the PSI so I dont stress the broken rad.


----------



## wermad

Why such an extreme pressure test?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why such an extreme pressure test?


Because the pump will provide up to 50PSI before automaticly turning off so just in case there was a kink or a clog(because I have a inline filter) I dont want them to leak all over my stuff you know. I figure if they past the worst I wont have to worry about them leaking. So far so good though, and they are only restricting the flow a little so im impressed..... Alos I got curious and tested the pump with the 5v rail on my PSU and it still runs great and way quieter and cooler, I think I mite put a switch in to control its speed so that I can run it quieter and have a bad ass turbo mode when needed lol. It still moves alot of water even at 5v im impressed! Its rated 12v-24v....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> He has it the right way around, RAD>CPU or GPU. Loop order does not matter that much anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> BS lets see how long your pump last going from your
> cpu, and gpu directly to the pump will shorten its life believe me ive done it:thumb::
Click to expand...

What rubbish!!
I have pumps at the end of my loop run with far more blocks and heat sources than you,never had a pump fail early...as long as the water temp is below 60c then you are ok.

Also,stop quoting pics without spoilers and stop with the double posts.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What rubbish!!
> I have pumps at the end of my loop run with far more blocks and heat sources than you,never had a pump fail early...as long as the water temp is below 60c then you are ok.
> 
> Also,stop quoting pics without spoilers and stop with the double posts.


You're right, he probably doesn't realizes that the loop sequence doesn't really matters at all..


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I want pictures, didn't know Alphachool had a 540mm rad, is it better than the Magicool?


They just released it a few days ago. And I recon the performance will be loads better. The Alphacool NexXxos XT45 180 triple is 45 mm deep, and has a much larger core than the Magicool - and it weighs like a kg more.

I haven't gotten around to testing anything yet, but the numbers I got from a bit of IBT and Heaven seems very promising. Will snap some pictures once the light allows it.

Here's a product pic for starters:


----------



## MCCSolutions

I did a pressure test on the Flojet pump too here is the video it exceeds 50psi lol








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Apdn-nVDD9k


----------



## LayerCakes

Quick question, if I had a water cooling kit like the Alphacool cool answer or something else with a pump/bay res combo and no drain port, how the hell do you drain it?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quick question, if I had a water cooling kit like the Alphacool cool answer or something else with a pump/bay res combo and no drain port, how the hell do you drain it?


you build a t joint.



or you... just tilt the case over a tub....


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> you build a t joint.
> 
> or you... just tilt the case over a tub....


I dont think the tub would work.. the bay res I've got here has the fill port on the top?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I dont think the tub would work.. the bay res I've got here has the fill port on the top?


yeah? and? lol, My XSPC has a fill port on the top too, you just pull it out a little and tip the case


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quick question, if I had a water cooling kit like the Alphacool cool answer or something else with a pump/bay res combo and no drain port, how the hell do you drain it?


Pull a tube off and drain from that,i do it all the time,i dont bother putting drains in.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull a tube off and drain from that,i do it all the time,i dont bother putting drains in.


surely water will start gushing from the fitting you pulled the tube off? You can't pop out the res like you normally could as it's a bay res?


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull a tube off and drain from that,i do it all the time,i dont bother putting drains in.


Mh.. don't give bad advices..

I, for example use a T fitting with a tap, that if needed, will be connected to a tube to drain everything.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> surely water will start gushing from the fitting you pulled the tube off? You can't pop out the res like you normally could as it's a bay res?


They way I empty my loop is to insert a tube into the reservoir and drain it. Then I tilt the case to fill the reservoir again. I repeat this process a few times until I can pull a tube from the reservoir and drain the rest of the loop.

It might not be terribly clever but it gets the job done. If I had a resonable spot to place a drainline out of sight, I would.

EDIT: That T-fitting and a valve might be an idea. I guess I will look into that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull a tube off and drain from that,i do it all the time,i dont bother putting drains in.
> 
> 
> 
> Mh.. don't give bad advices..
> 
> I, for example use a T fitting with a tap, that if needed, will be connected to a tube to drain everything.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Excuse me?

I have built MANY loops and never used a drain,pulling a tube off for emptying a loop is common practice.

Nothing wrong with that method at all if the rig is powered down.



I unscrew the bottom GPU 90 and blow down the tube,clearing the loop out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull a tube off and drain from that,i do it all the time,i dont bother putting drains in.
> 
> 
> 
> surely water will start gushing from the fitting you pulled the tube off? You can't pop out the res like you normally could as it's a bay res?
Click to expand...

there is some water loss but it doesnt gush out,for water to come out,air needs to get in and as water and air struggle to get out of a 10mm bore quickly,you should be fine.

Just pull the tube and drop the end into a jug,I normally go for the GPU blocks as they sit away from the board.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

quick question:
how long after a graphics card comes out does
the waterblock for it come out? a week? month?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> quick question:
> how long after a graphics card comes out does
> the waterblock for it come out? a week? month?


Normally within a couple of weeks,sometimes on release...EK tend to be the fastest on this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why such an extreme pressure test?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the pump will provide up to 50PSI before automaticly turning off so just in case there was a kink or a clog(because I have a inline filter) I dont want them to leak all over my stuff you know. I figure if they past the worst I wont have to worry about them leaking. So far so good though, and they are only restricting the flow a little so im impressed..... Alos I got curious and tested the pump with the 5v rail on my PSU and it still runs great and way quieter and cooler, I think I mite put a switch in to control its speed so that I can run it quieter and have a bad ass turbo mode when needed lol. It still moves alot of water even at 5v im impressed! Its rated 12v-24v....
Click to expand...

You know that 50 PSI will blow any block on the market apart right?

Massive and dangerous overkill.......


----------



## wermad

Titan waterblocks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Titan waterblocks


Got my eye on 2 of those beauties,probably getting Nate to machine me something up.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Excuse me?
> 
> I have built MANY loops and never used a drain,pulling a tube off for emptying a loop is common practice.
> 
> Nothing wrong with that method at all if the rig is powered down.


Okay, you can build how many loops you want but having a drain valve is indeed more practical and easier than your method..

I just insert a tube, open the valve and the job is done. (obviously the system is powered down)

EDIT: oh, and while draining i open the reservoir fill port to let air enter.. everything works like a charm


----------



## wermad

I have a drain line with a qdc









Any one know what screws do koolance gpu blocks use?


----------



## driftingforlife

I always use a drain.


----------



## Fridge Gnome

I pull a tube off and stick a vaccum to it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Excuse me?
> 
> I have built MANY loops and never used a drain,pulling a tube off for emptying a loop is common practice.
> 
> Nothing wrong with that method at all if the rig is powered down.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, you can build how many loops you want but having a drain valve is indeed more practical and easier than your method..
> 
> I just insert a tube, open the valve and the job is done. (obviously the system is powered down)
> 
> EDIT: oh, and while draining i open the reservoir fill port to let air enter.. everything works like a charm
Click to expand...

I dont have a problem with drains or their use,I do have a problem with you saying its bad advice when its not.

The one thing i do like about low drains is hooking a pump up and filling from it,a lot less air enters the system and makes bleeding a painless exercise.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Normally within a couple of weeks,sometimes on release...EK tend to be the fastest on this.
> You know that 50 PSI will blow any block on the market apart right?
> 
> Massive and dangerous overkill.......


Thats the maximum PSI reached if there is enough restriction or blockage to make the pump create up to that pressure, the pump automatically shuts off when over 50PSI is reached. With it setup in a loop with three 360mm RADs it only reached like 2psi and had a very strong nice stream. But I did kink the line to allow it to reach that PSI just to see how the hardware reacted to it and they did good. But whats funny about what you said I am using a Moded H100i pump as a CPU water block(because it was defective) and two H70's pumps as water blocks for the GPUs and I tested them at 50PSI with not one drop of water anywhere lol







I guess that means there better?!....


----------



## driftingforlife

You put 50PSI though H70 pumps. Im sure that did them good


----------



## minicooper1

PPCS the best shop


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> You put 50PSI though H70 pumps. Im sure that did them good


Actually I have already taken all of them apart and there a simple design, and my original intention was to still use its pump function but after seeing how well my new pump can support all of them and 5 RADs with no problem and is variable with voltage, I think im gonna remove the propeller out of my H70's like I did my H100i. And they both have a Magnetically balanced motor It has no shaft it just floats and thats it lol, they designed them that way for extended life as well as better waterproofing since the coil for the motor is external of the pump housing.....


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> PPCS the best shop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I have one of those power extension stations in orange. I love it. I plugged my case fans, CCFL, and pump into it. I love the different fan voltage outputs. I have 2 case fans plugged into 7v and one into 5v. Makes cable management much easier too.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Titan waterblocks












Next week should certainly be interesting. Hopefully we can actually crank up the voltage and heat our loops up a little bit. Im pretty sure my loop barely knows my 680 is there ha.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## MCCSolutions

BEAUTIFUL


----------



## morencyam

I didn't even know anyone made HDD blocks anymore. Koolance was the only one that I had ever seen. Do they do anything performance wise or are they purely for bling?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


Very Niiiice


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I didn't even know anyone made HDD blocks anymore. Koolance was the only one that I had ever seen. Do they do anything performance wise or are they purely for bling?


Bling.


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I didn't even know anyone made HDD blocks anymore. Koolance was the only one that I had ever seen. Do they do anything performance wise or are they purely for bling?


bling


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull a tube off and drain from that,i do it all the time,i dont bother putting drains in.


*
THIS^^^*

I totally agree with B Neg.

Why create added problems when not necessary- unless drain ports are subtly done, with proper fittings-the majority are *very* unsightly(look up Singularity PC vids on youtube in Australia for an example on how they should be done)

Imo they are a waste of time.

If a rig is designed properly, there should be a tube that can be pulled from its fitting and in turn used to drain the system.

I'm running 3 rigs atm (soon to have a fourth under water) and ive never needed a drain line etc.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> bling










i meet you here too eh,








Awesome HD blocks tho.


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i meet you here too eh,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome HD blocks tho.


how fieel How is your pc?


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> I'm running 3 rigs atm (soon to have a fourth under water) and ive never needed a drain line etc.


Of course, you don't need it. It helps and it is useful, but you can also totally avoid it and you won't have problems, what you wrote doesn't justify anything, really.

Take as example a smart phone. Nice, useful, bling bling and wow, but you can live without one anyways, said that it doesn't justify that it is useless







.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> *
> THIS^^^*
> 
> I totally agree with B Neg.
> 
> Why create added problems when not necessary- unless drain ports are subtly done, with proper fittings-the majority are *very* unsightly(look up Singularity PC vids on youtube in Australia for an example on how they should be done)
> 
> Imo they are a waste of time.
> 
> If a rig is designed properly, there should be a tube that can be pulled from its fitting and in turn used to drain the system.
> 
> I'm running 3 rigs atm (soon to have a fourth under water) and ive never needed a drain line etc.


If you're doing a properly professional looking rig you HAVE to have a drainage solution. Period. Sure you can just rig one up and that will work okay but I'll be damned if my $5k rig isn't going to have a dedicated drain tap. It's not like they're very hard to install...


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Watercooled my bench.


nice looking IF YOU COULD SEE IT try holding the camera straight:thumb:


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I didn't even know anyone made HDD blocks anymore. Koolance was the only one that I had ever seen. Do they do anything performance wise or are they purely for bling?


Aquacomputer also has these : http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=7_11_16


----------



## phillyd

I have had immense trouble with past builds when I don't use a t-line. The drain port is extremely important in my loops and I've nearly dunked my computer before because I lacked one.

Safest way I know of to drain a loop without a t-line is to clamp a low-in-the-loop hose off twice with a gap between the clamps, cut the tube at the gap, put one end in a jug, unclamp them and blow in through the other.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I made sure to design a good drain port into my rig when I was planning the loop. All it took was a five-way adapter (which I also mounted my temp sensor to) and a BP tap. To drain all I have to do is place a tube on the barb of the tap and turn the faucet on (and of course open up my res). Clean, simple solution and a must for a proper professional build IMO...


----------



## BiaBia

I've ran with and without a drain line. I like the looks of the loop more without, but the functionality of having it is great. My current loop has one but it's hidden when the case is buttoned up so I'm good with it. My next build will be a scratch build out of acrylic so there won't be a drain line since I won't be able to hide it. Like much in the water cooling world, it's all a matter of preference.


----------



## brettjv

Thread cleaned, let's stay on topic guys.

Also, a reminder to everyone ... please don't quote posts with numerous pictures w/o using spoiler tag on the pics, or, even better, edit the quote so the pics are not there, just the text. The reason you use quote is to identify what post/who you're responding to. The pics don't need to be there in order for people to make that association, and lots of quoted pics slow down the loading of the thread. Also many people use their phones to access the site, and pay for data usage, so ... you are costing them money when you quote pictures


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Mh.. don't give bad advices..
> 
> I, for example use a T fitting with a tap, that if needed, will be connected to a tube to drain everything.


While I am with you on PERSONALLY thinking that a drain port is helpful, I would suggest not calling out one of the most skilled loop builders on the site....


----------



## nleksan

Does this count as a "clean, professional" drainage line??



(And here's the fill line; you can see it coming down from the top in front of the EX420)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Does this count as a "clean, professional" drainage line??
> -snip-


Looks very clean to me, nice job sir.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> While I am with you on PERSONALLY thinking that a drain port is helpful, I would suggest not calling out one of the most skilled loop builders on the site....


Didn't know that, realized now that he created the whole thread, but still, a drain valve is helpful and functional.. in the other hand if you don't like the look of it it's a whole different story.









Awesome drain solution anyways, if i'd have a radiator at the bottom of my case i'd steal your idea


----------



## Fonne

*EKWB Officially Releases EK-FC7990 Full-Coverage Water Block*

http://www.techpowerup.com/180208/EKWB-Officially-Releases-EK-FC7990-Full-Coverage-Water-Block.html


----------



## BiaBia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Does this count as a "clean, professional" drainage line??


I would think so, perfect solution in my mind


----------



## lowfat

One of the cleanest EK water blocks ever. IMO.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB Officially Releases EK-FC7990 Full-Coverage Water Block*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/180208/EKWB-Officially-Releases-EK-FC7990-Full-Coverage-Water-Block.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome! And no crop circles! I have hope for a Titan block!


----------



## Canis-X

Not a bad looking block at all. Too bad they couldn't have moved that stupid multi strand wire to a less visible location on the block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> *
> THIS^^^*
> 
> I totally agree with B Neg.
> 
> Why create added problems when not necessary- unless drain ports are subtly done, with proper fittings-the majority are *very* unsightly(look up Singularity PC vids on youtube in Australia for an example on how they should be done)
> 
> Imo they are a waste of time.
> 
> If a rig is designed properly, there should be a tube that can be pulled from its fitting and in turn used to drain the system.
> 
> I'm running 3 rigs atm (soon to have a fourth under water) and ive never needed a drain line etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're doing a properly professional looking rig you HAVE to have a drainage solution. Period. Sure you can just rig one up and that will work okay but I'll be damned if my $5k rig isn't going to have a dedicated drain tap. It's not like they're very hard to install...
Click to expand...

My rig is very professional and cost $8000 USD,you dont HAVE to have anything. Period. Insinuating that any rig without one isnt professional is outright wrong
They are handy but not vital by any means.

I find this whole 'If you have not got one,you are wrong' attitude quite poor.

I will say tho,I only have to drain mine maybe once a year to 18 months. Solid tube,lots of biocide and no dye or other contaminants means i dont get crap in my loop to need lots of fluid changes


----------



## PCModderMike

I've never spent 8,000 on just one build...just under half maybe at one of the most expensive setups I've had. But I've done a variety of loops, never included a drain, never thought is was absolutely necessary.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I've never spent 8,000 on just one build...just under half maybe at one of the most expensive setups I've had. But I've done a variety of loops, never included a drain, never thought is was absolutely necessary.


When you rock Xeons,cost gets wild! £800 per CPU is pretty savage!
I have no problems with those that choose to use a drain,it is handy,no doubt about it,but saying its vital or its not pro without one gets my hackles up. Especially when I have seen many people with drains forget to close them and flood the case........

Now,lets get on with the PRON!!


----------



## coolmiester

Someone mention Pr0n............96GB of Kingston HyperX Beast Pr0n


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Someone mention Pr0n............96GB of Kingston HyperX Beast Pr0n


Come on and again i need to change my pants...


----------



## wermad

Why so much commotion over a drain line? Some people use them, some don't. Difference strokes for different folks. Let's move on ppl!!!!!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you rock Xeons,cost gets wild! £800 per CPU is pretty savage!
> I have no problems with those that choose to use a drain,it is handy,no doubt about it,but saying its vital or its not pro without one gets my hackles up. Especially when I have seen many people with drains forget to close them and flood the case........
> 
> Now,lets get on with the PRON!!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Someone mention Pr0n............96GB of Kingston HyperX Beast Pr0n
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Someone mention Pr0n............96GB of Kingston HyperX Beast Pr0n


Yeah baby!!

You gonna peel them and drown them CM or leave them stock?


----------



## coolmiester

Naa Neg they are staying stock but i got something nice going underwater in the new SR-2









sorry, couldn't resist another pic while i was here


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Naa Neg they are staying stock but i got something nice going underwater in the *new SR-2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry, couldn't resist another pic while i was here


I knew you couldnt stay away long.....your SR-X is boss but its not the same.

Once you have had the SR-2,everything else seems small and underpowered.


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I knew you couldnt stay away long.....your SR-X is boss but its not the same.
> 
> Once you have had the SR-2,everything else seems small and underpowered.


Bit off topic so i apologise but when i heard about these Intel Xeon X5698 i simply had to get an old friend out of retirement


----------



## King4x4

Anybody tried to water cool two MSI 680 4GB Twin Frozrs that come with the non-stacked power connections... got two incoming and wish to put them under blocks but EKs site gives out a definite answer on the stacked version only


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Some water cooling goodies.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Anybody tried to water cool two MSI 680 4GB Twin Frozrs that come with the non-stacked power connections... got two incoming and wish to put them under blocks but EKs site gives out a definite answer on the stacked version only


Did you contact MSI Alex? he can probably find out if it uses the same layout but maybe with stacked power connectors.


----------



## King4x4

They have the Chinese new year so communication is a bit slow.

Cards just arrived at the US forwarding company so 9 days and I should have them in Saudi Arabia.


----------



## Hokies83




----------



## King4x4

Die the mobo sinks... at least the ones that won't be hidden by the GPUs.

Gonna do that soon to my Hydra but don't have the time to do it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Running out of space?









Looks sweet!


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> They have the Chinese new year so communication is a bit slow.
> 
> Cards just arrived at the US forwarding company so 9 days and I should have them in Saudi Arabia.


Well, here's hoping it will be a reference design


----------



## Hokies83

Leak testing getting air out.. and filling which atm is almost a Gallon of water lol..


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Naa Neg they are staying stock but i got something nice going underwater in the new SR-2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry, couldn't resist another pic while i was here


Whats the point of the rest of us even posting photo's when you have THAT?

My mobo can take 128 GB of RAM so I guess I will have to work overtime


----------



## lurker2501

Don't know if already posted, but I thoght I'd share this:


----------



## MaDeuce50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Don't know if already posted, but I thoght I'd share this:


SWEET JESUS!!! 800d with window in front..... frothhhhhh


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Don't know if already posted, but I thoght I'd share this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think I've seen the top one on Reddit before. So sexy....

Anyways, do you have a link for the second build? I can't seem to find it anywhere.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Don't know if already posted, but I thoght I'd share this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


Fyi: please quote the pics. By posting them like that it makes it look like you're taking credit for the builds. Just a thought since we do get phonies taking credit for other's work.

Those are nice


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've seen the blue one before but not the copper...


----------



## lowfat

Who built that 800d?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've seen the blue one before but not the copper...


Same here. Scouring the internets trying to find it
EDIT Link posted by lurker2501


----------



## xlink64

...Where are the power cords on the graphics cards for that 800D? Have I been temporarily blinded by awesomeness or am I really not seeing any??


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> I think I've seen the top one on Reddit before. So sexy....
> 
> Anyways, do you have a link for the second build? I can't seem to find it anywhere.


http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f143/tj07-copperhead-832365-22.html#post20084555


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlink64*
> 
> ...Where are the power cords on the graphics cards for that 800D? Have I been temporarily blinded by awesomeness or am I really not seeing any??


He ran them between the pcb and backplate
Quote:


>


I found a build log for it. It's in Italian but Chrome translated for me.
Build log HERE


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f143/tj07-copperhead-832365-22.html#post20084555


Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> He ran them between the pcb and backplate
> I found a build log for it. It's in Italian but Chrome translated for me.
> Build log HERE


Smexy


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Titan waterblocks


you read my mind..yep i'm waiting for the new Titan card and block.. only thing left
to complete my new (2nd) build..getting bored with it now and starting to airbrush
everything i can now..lol.hope it comes out soon.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

thanx..yeah i kinda figured it would be like that..i could almost swear i seen a block for the
680 last year a day or 2 before the card even was out for purchase.


----------



## lurker2501

Forgot this one:



http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=251523


----------



## jokrik

The mod where the liquid flow inside of an acrylic piece amazed me !
I've read the mod required to get something like that done, without proper tool and skill its impossible
modding level over 9000!!!


----------



## morencyam

That top window piece is amazing!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Don't know if already posted, but I thoght I'd share this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fyi: please quote the pics. By posting them like that it makes it look like you're taking credit for the builds. Just a thought since we do get phonies taking credit for other's work.
> 
> Those are nice
Click to expand...

This.
If its not your rig then dont post or give the builder the credit and a link to his log

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've seen the blue one before but not the copper...


The corsair is twister 800d if i remember correctly,the bottom one is Copperhead.


----------



## mxthunder

Man all of a sudden people have really stepped it up in here! Awesome rigs, its stuff like that that inspires me to keep upgrading my rig.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'll never be able to build a custom rig like those but I think mine is pretty good. And version 2.0 coming soon is going to be even better!


----------



## hammerforged

Titan

They say its not but I think we all know it is


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Well I'm glad the circles are gone but now its too plain. Why can't they go back to the subtle design from before CSQ?


----------



## Crooksy

Where can I get some suitable screws?! My XTX360 came with some M3 30mm but the head is too narrow and slip through the holes on the 800D and the smaller ones aren't big enough to hold fans!


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Well I'm glad the circles are gone but now its too plain. Why can't they go back to the subtle design from before CSQ?


Yeah there are 3 different options on their site right now. I just posted the plain cause it looked the best of the 3. Theres plenty of plain block out there so I have to agree that it need a little something extra to set it apart.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I hope HK makes a block for Titan. They make my favorite GPU blocks at least aesthetically.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Titan
> 
> They say its not but I think we all know it is


Hopefully they come in clear acrylic.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I really hate the H80 in my folding rig. Every now and then the stupid pump makes this awful grinding sound that is so loud and obnoxious! I want to throw that stupid cooler in the lake behind my house! I can't believe Corsair released such a crap pump design (my old H60 did the exact same thing which is why I got the H80).


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I really hate the H80 in my folding rig. Every now and then the stupid pump makes this awful grinding sound that is so loud and obnoxious! I want to throw that stupid cooler in the lake behind my house! I can't believe Corsair released such a crap pump design (my old H60 did the exact same thing which is why I got the H80).


Solution: Custom loop


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Excuse me?
> 
> I have built MANY loops and never used a drain,pulling a tube off for emptying a loop is common practice.
> 
> Nothing wrong with that method at all if the rig is powered down.
> 
> 
> 
> I unscrew the bottom GPU 90 and blow down the tube,clearing the loop out.
> there is some water loss but it doesnt gush out,for water to come out,air needs to get in and as water and air struggle to get out of a 10mm bore quickly,you should be fine.
> 
> Just pull the tube and drop the end into a jug,I normally go for the GPU blocks as they sit away from the board.


I am going to have to pay you to come to where I live so you can do some copper tubes for me lol


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Where can I get some suitable screws?! My XTX360 came with some M3 30mm but the head is too narrow and slip through the holes on the 800D and the smaller ones aren't big enough to hold fans!


Just get some washers from the hardware store


----------



## protzman

one friggin year in the making!!!!
gonna post much better pix tomorrow











its time to enjoy it right now! BOOYAH


----------



## sanitarium

New case (bitfenix shinobi xl), testing some hose I got for free, just installed 240 rad (in the front).
no idea what i want to do for lighting (ignore the blue led for now, was testing the color).
trying to figure out how i want to do fittings (need at least 2 90's, a 45)
and still on the fence about an internal res instead of the 2 bay res....

mainly throwing this picture up to show the tubing.

Edit: lights out picture


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> one friggin year in the making!!!!
> gonna post much better pix tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its time to enjoy it right now! BOOYAH


What dimension tubing you using?


----------



## protzman

3/8 - 5/8!!


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> 3/8 - 5/8!!


Thanks







Im using primochill 3/4 OD and it a bit too stiff, maybe there is a tubing that is soft and can bend easily? i think that gonna replace tubing as soon as i get a new testbench done from lase cutting


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Don't know if already posted, but I thoght I'd share this:


anyone know the build log of this?


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im using primochill 3/4 OD and it a bit too stiff, maybe there is a tubing that is soft and can bend easily? i think that gonna replace tubing as soon as i get a new testbench done from lase cutting


np this stuff is surprisingly flexable. I had primo chill right when i started gathering supplies for my build like a year ago and i was testing my pump and cpu blocks cause i was all "YEAA WATERCOOLING" and just from testing that stuff it plastercized so i was like nope! This stuff is durelene and so far so good







haha but its only been a few hours!


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> np this stuff is surprisingly flexable. I had primo chill right when i started gathering supplies for my build like a year ago and i was testing my pump and cpu blocks cause i was all "YEAA WATERCOOLING" and just from testing that stuff it plastercized so i was like nope! This stuff is durelene and so far so good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha but its only been a few hours!


But you used dyes yeah? because im running only distiled plus mayhems biocide


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> *EKWB Officially Releases EK-FC7990 Full-Coverage Water Block*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/180208/EKWB-Officially-Releases-EK-FC7990-Full-Coverage-Water-Block.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Titan
> 
> They say its not but I think we all know it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I miss EK's 45 degree slashes on the top and bottom corners of the water blocks!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> np this stuff is surprisingly flexable. I had primo chill right when i started gathering supplies for my build like a year ago and i was testing my pump and cpu blocks cause i was all "YEAA WATERCOOLING" and just from testing that stuff it plastercized so i was like nope! This stuff is durelene and so far so good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha but its only been a few hours!
> 
> 
> 
> But you used dyes yeah? because im running only distiled plus mayhems biocide
Click to expand...

Plastcizer occurs with and without dye,old primoshill was the worst offender of all....


----------



## SeekerZA

Started My Building BUT waiting on Motherboard before setting everything up

My LOG: http://www.overclock.net/t/1361280/build-log-haf-x-watercooled


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Plastcizer occurs with and without dye,old primoshill was the worst offender of all....


Ok thanks







so yeah then im going to replace my tubing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Those rad brackets should be outlawed......not pretty.


----------



## SeekerZA

Screws aren't tight on, loose just to see the setup. Think ill leave them in instead of streched but really hope everything comes together since it's my first custom. And the Bracket was my only option to get a monsta


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those rad brackets should be outlawed......not pretty.


im hapy because you didnt saw how is my rad mounted


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those rad brackets should be outlawed......not pretty.


I do agree that they are not as smooth and aesthetic but they give it a unique look.... looks like the RAD is gonna scissor out or extend or something lol


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those rad brackets should be outlawed......not pretty.


I agree. Rads internal or in a sperate rad box. I don't even kmow why he's gone for an external rad. You can get plenty of rad in a haf :/


----------



## _REAPER_

If that is a monster rad he is going to have some issues with clearance depending on his MOBO


----------



## MCCSolutions

I know its slightly off topic a little even though im gonna do water cooling but this is a popular thread and I want some honest well informed opinions or compliments so fire away. its a budget build and Im gonna do a custom loop with a Corsair H50, Its for my sister who has low to moderate gaming like Sims 4 so it will be awesome, I am building this as a budget build so I has simple and cheap cosmetic items but they make a nice big impact......


----------



## MCCSolutions

Forgot to mention about the pics that I am cutting it out to add a clear plexi glass window for a nice look, I also have two red cold cathode tubes on them way for the top and bottom and that fan lights up red that is mounted on the back..... The last pic is me putting it up for the night because when I cut the metal its loud and my kids are sleeping...


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Don't know if already posted, but I thoght I'd share this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Forgot this one:
> 
> 
> 
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=251523
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

These WC builts are soooo AMAZING!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New case (bitfenix shinobi xl), testing some hose I got for free, just installed 240 rad (in the front).
> no idea what i want to do for lighting (ignore the blue led for now, was testing the color).
> trying to figure out how i want to do fittings (need at least 2 90's, a 45)
> and still on the fence about an internal res instead of the 2 bay res....
> 
> mainly throwing this picture up to show the tubing.
> 
> Edit: lights out picture


Congrats on your WC built!, and welcome WC OCN Family!


----------



## Hokies83

Not really..


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I really hate the H80 in my folding rig. Every now and then the stupid pump makes this awful grinding sound that is so loud and obnoxious! I want to throw that stupid cooler in the lake behind my house! I can't believe Corsair released such a crap pump design (my old H60 did the exact same thing which is why I got the H80).


Dude, Yeah why not you get Apogee Drive II Unit instead of Corsair's crappy pump Unit?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Huizar9791*


Honestly, So Beautiful!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XerTo*
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=120220132188a5kkl.jpg


Lovely Modded and perfectly settings!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Not really..


Not really what?


----------



## sectionsone

Hello ,I often see this thread, and I want to share the results after a leaked pipe bending test. Here I just use the adapter fitting for seamless looking.
This picture. Sorry have not finished all of them>. <




Waiting for your comment, sorry for my bad english.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not really what?


Those very clean but very basic loops they keep posting that belong to somebody who is not even on the forums..

I do not find it very impressive. Clean yes and i like how they look..

As far as the Basic ATX cases go id have to say that Karlitos <-- sorry if i miss spelled it.. Quad Damage is amount the nicest out there.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Of course, you don't need it. It helps and it is useful, but you can also totally avoid it and you won't have problems, what you wrote doesn't justify anything, really.
> 
> Take as example a smart phone. Nice, useful, bling bling and wow, but you can live without one anyways, said that it doesn't justify that it is useless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


When quoting a post-please do so correctly.

I did not say it was useless-please refer to exactly what i said.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> If you're doing a properly professional looking rig you HAVE to have a drainage solution. Period. Sure you can just rig one up and that will work okay but I'll be damned if my $5k rig isn't going to have a dedicated drain tap. It's not like they're very hard to install...


Not true at all (serious







)

The only thing you *have* to do in this life is pay taxes and die (humour







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> While I am with you on PERSONALLY thinking that a drain port is helpful, I would suggest not calling out one of the most skilled loop builders on the site....


THIS^^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Does this count as a "clean, professional" drainage line??


Excellent job-well done, and for those that misinterpreted what i clearly said-this type of drainage port is what i was referring to as being well designed/placed in a rig-as opposed to (as i also previously said) the unsightly ones that reside in 90% of the rigs

Looking up Singularity Pcs would have made my point if people had been bothered to have a look









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My rig is very professional and cost $8000 USD,you dont HAVE to have anything. Period. Insinuating that any rig without one isnt professional is outright wrong
> They are handy but not vital by any means.
> 
> I find this whole 'If you have not got one,you are wrong' attitude quite poor.


THIS^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I've never spent 8,000 on just one build...just under half maybe at one of the most expensive setups I've had. But I've done a variety of loops, never included a drain, never thought is was absolutely necessary.


My point exactly sir

My apologies for the late post-i have a real life as well








Anyway-im done here as to not hijack this thread and continue on an off topic issue


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*


i liked the res to cpu block line better when it ran beside the rad to res line. side by side looked cleaner.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Does this count as a "clean, professional" drainage line??
> 
> 
> 
> (And here's the fill line; you can see it coming down from the top in front of the EX420)


What speeds are you running those fans at?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> one friggin year in the making!!!!
> gonna post much better pix tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its time to enjoy it right now! BOOYAH


Finally finished the build. Nice job Protz, the rig looks good.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Hello ,I often see this thread, and I want to share the results after a leaked pipe bending test. Here I just use the adapter fitting for seamless looking.
> This picture. Sorry have not finished all of them>. <
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for your comment, sorry for my bad english.


wow, that looks so good. The pipes on the GPU blend well with the piping. Really nice and clean work.







This build reminds me of a build B-neg did for a client.


----------



## sectionsone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Finally finished the build. Nice job Protz, the rig looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow, that looks so good. The pipes on the GPU blend well with the piping. Really nice and clean work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This build reminds me of a build B-neg did for a client.


Thank you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i liked the res to cpu block line better when it ran beside the rad to res line. side by side looked cleaner.


thanks for comments I will consider your suggestion


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> anyone know the build log of this?


http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f143/tj07-copperhead-832365-22.html#post20084555


----------



## PwndN00b

...delete previous comment to an earlier post, so now I'm just wasting space.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i liked the res to cpu block line better when it ran beside the rad to res line. side by side looked cleaner.
Click to expand...

I think you are thinking of my build that i made for a customer....



EDIT: mironccr345 has got a good memory.


----------



## sectionsone

Yes b negative i inspired from you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Yes b negative i inspired from you


Looks good mate,the C70 is a solid case,I liked working with it.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think you are thinking of my build that i made for a customer....


yes i was. i have seen so many pics in posts i get confused. still sectionsone has a solid looking loop either way.


----------



## bundymania

Move away with your little toys now, here comes the GIANT !!!





























http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2965&XTCsid=alcqijq24on6i2j33aa0dlc5k9cqrbq7


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Move away with your little toys now, here comes the GIANT !!!


Looks like something 'Tim the toolman Taylor' would use to cool his rig


----------



## GTX 690 SLI

its finshed and is EPIC.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199098/cooler-master-cosmos-2-club/4360


----------



## TwentyCent

I might well be late on the news, but anybody has seen this?:

Bitspower QCC


----------



## bundymania

Yup, looking nice, but i prefer the new Koolance QDC Series....


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Im not even going to posts a pic of my weaksauce loop in here lol!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE*
> 
> Im not even going to posts a pic of my weaksauce loop in here lol!


ditto. it cools well but looks a mite atrocious.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE*
> 
> Im not even going to posts a pic of my weaksauce loop in here lol!
> 
> 
> 
> ditto. it cools well but looks a mite atrocious.
Click to expand...

Lol it just a pump rad and a res hee hee







. But it's my 1st DIY though, working on the H50 mod then the H100 to see if I can get temps down.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> What speeds are you running those fans at?


Typically 80-100%! The noise actually isn't that bad at all, and at anything below 80% I can't hear the rad fans over the ambient noise.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I do agree that they are not as smooth and aesthetic but they give it a unique look.... looks like the RAD is gonna scissor out or extend or something lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those rad brackets should be outlawed......not pretty.


Really? I was planning to add one in the back of the case with that bracket, i don't think it looks bad at all!
Well obviously i don't have more room inside otherwise i'd never have a rad like that..

Here's a pretty sweet pic from another forum's user rig:
The gallery (the guy doesn't have a log): http://www.hwupgrade.it/forum/showpost.php?p=37165255&postcount=35085


edit: credits


----------



## benito

here is my drain


oh you can't see it

this is better


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think you are thinking of my build that i made for a customer....
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: mironccr345 has got a good memory.


Yeah man, hard to forget a clean build such as that one ^^.


----------



## Crooksy

Am I going to run into any clearance issues with a EK XTX360 with push/pull 25mm fans in my 800D?

Just a thought, and i'm not close to my rig so I can't measure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I do agree that they are not as smooth and aesthetic but they give it a unique look.... looks like the RAD is gonna scissor out or extend or something lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those rad brackets should be outlawed......not pretty.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Really? I was planning to add one in the back of the case with that bracket, i don't think it looks bad at all!
> Well obviously i don't have more room inside otherwise i'd never have a rad like that..
> 
> Here's a pretty sweet pic from another forum's user rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Do not post other users rigs from other forums here,this is for OCN members.

Especially as you didnt put the source or give the builder credit.

I will be flagging them for removal if this continues.

As for the bracket,its an aesthetic choice,I dont dig them really.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do not post other users rigs from other forums here,this is for OCN members.
> 
> Especially as you didnt put the source or give the builder credit.
> 
> I will be flagging them for removal if this continues.
> 
> As for the bracket,its an aesthetic choice,I dont dig them really.


Well i did post it cause i've seen plenty of times people doing it, i'm also new here.
Edited and added credits


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think you are thinking of my build that i made for a customer....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: mironccr345 has got a good memory.


Any details on the mounting and function of the 360 rad on the top? I'm always looking for ways to shove moar rad into my C70.

Also, quick question, what is the general consensus for amount of rad to cool two 580s in their own loop?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do not post other users rigs from other forums here,this is for OCN members.
> 
> Especially as you didnt put the source or give the builder credit.
> 
> I will be flagging them for removal if this continues.
> 
> As for the bracket,its an aesthetic choice,I dont dig them really.
> 
> 
> 
> Well i did post it cause i've seen plenty of times people doing it, i'm also new here.
> Edited and added credits
Click to expand...

Please read the first post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Rules:*
> 
> To join this club simply post *pics of your COMPLETE rig in THIS THREAD* and I will add you to the list. The rules are not strict, ANY form of liquid cooling is good; that includes users of products like the Corsair H50. Feel free to post multiple builds and have multiple posts, I will add them next to your original post in the list. Even builds you no longer have are acceptable, *just so long as they were built by you.*


----------



## Jeffinslaw

It doesn't say you can't post rigs that aren't yours. What's the big deal if you post someone's rig? Seriously... just give them credit and link to their build log. Not everyone who has built a computer has an account here. Providing links to other build logs gives people inspiration. This is a watercooling club where as long as we are posting about watercooling builds, we are on topic and within guidelines. I think you need to relax a little B Negative...

I think that if you are going to post someone's build, make sure you give them credit and link the build log. That way, you are within the ToS of the site with uploading photos and therefore it should be fine for this thread.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It doesn't say you can't post rigs that aren't yours. What's the big deal if you post someone's rig? Seriously... just give them credit and link to their build log. Not everyone who has built a computer has an account here. Providing links to other build logs gives people inspiration. This is a watercooling club where as long as we are posting about watercooling builds, we are on topic and within guidelines. I think you need to relax a little B Negative...
> 
> I think that if you are going to post someone's build, make sure you give them credit and link the build log. That way, you are within the ToS of the site with uploading photos and therefore it should be fine for this thread.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Its quite simple,you dont have permission from the builder to distribute his work,if they want to post it here then thats cool.
It may well be that the builder doesnt want to post their work here for whatever reason.
The ToS of this site says that OCN get ownership of the content posted,posting without the builders consent breaks this term.

Read the ToS before quoting it....


----------



## ginger_nuts

B Neg. is so correct.

If you do not believe him, PM a moderator.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think you are thinking of my build that i made for a customer....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: mironccr345 has got a good memory.
> 
> 
> 
> Any details on the mounting and function of the 360 rad on the top? I'm always looking for ways to shove moar rad into my C70.
> 
> Also, quick question, what is the general consensus for amount of rad to cool two 580s in their own loop?
Click to expand...

A 360 should be the minimum to aim for,I dont have first hand exp of 580's but Fermi's are hot running as far as i know.

You can mount it easily in the roof,it will mount using the last pair of fan mounts on the rad at each end,you will need to drill the case for this, or you can bolt thru the mesh on top.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Typically 80-100%! The noise actually isn't that bad at all, and at anything below 80% I can't hear the rad fans over the ambient noise.


Do you live near an airport?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Do you live near an airport?


LOL! (sorry, i couldn't help myself







)


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Sorry... I guess I don't see why it is such a big deal. If someone were to post pictures on another site and link to my build log I would be fine with it. But I guess that that is just me...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

580s are way better then the 480s. 6xx series is way better then the 5xx









eidt: in terms of temps


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 580s are way better then the 480s. 6xx series is way better then the 5xx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eidt: in terms of temps


Yeah,480's are incredible heat wise.

You had 580's Werm? What are they like for temps?


----------



## MKHunt

I was asking because I've never looked at SLI 580 cooling setups, but its what my friend is shortly getting and I was looking to see if he could cool them in his HAF-X since he's stubborn and silly and doesn't believe in buying a case that suits what he wants.

Also ugh, I just got a ton of 45 degree rotary swiftech fittings, one 90* rotary Swiftech fitting, an EX360 for the top of my C70 (to replace the RS240), a gasket for the triple rad, and a gasket to go on my front-mounted RX240.

Total rad count in my C70 will soon be:
RX120 Rear
RX240 Front
EX360 Top

Currently with the RS240 my [email protected] hits 41C and my 590 overvolted to .988V hits 43-44C after 2.5 hours of Unigine Valley with my SP120s at ~1200rpm.... So why not moar rad? No regrets!


----------



## bundymania

GIANT inside !


----------



## protzman




----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,480's are incredible heat wise.


Who can forget?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Source



and the 8800GT :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Source


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> GIANT inside !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I bet you could fit a small child in there.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> GIANT inside !


This reminds me of some sort of tunnel in a Sci-Fi movie









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love this color matching scheme you have going.

Fantastic work. Could you share what coolant you are using? or what mixtures if it is the case.


----------



## protzman

thanks man







and im using the mayhems pastel mint green. but tbh in real life inside my rig it looks yellow green, more yellow though but i think it still looks sweet!!


----------



## driftingforlife

Got all sorts of ideas in my head for my V8. Only problem is I don't have the kit or skill to make the one off bit I want


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and im using the mayhems pastel mint green. but tbh in real life inside my rig it looks yellow green, more yellow though but i think it still looks sweet!!


Your build looks great protz! Good to see it came full circle for ya, I bet it's very satisfying.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*


Amazing build!

aren't you worried having the pump (esp ddc) just sit on top of the acrylic without any holes for airflow?
it tends to run pretty hot

and what thickness is that acrylic?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Amazing build!
> 
> aren't you worried having the pump (esp ddc) just sit on top of the acrylic without any holes for airflow?
> it tends to run pretty hot
> 
> and what thickness is that acrylic?


Most acrylic has a melting point of 160 degrees Celsius. The highest operating temperature for that pump is only 60 Celsius. I think he has nothing to worry about with it sitting on top like that. If that's what you were getting at.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Your build looks great protz! Good to see it came full circle for ya, I bet it's very satisfying.


Oh yeah you bet it does and thanks for the words!







But yeah full full circle come tuesday or wed! Gotta install my ram block! got the modules and fittings on the way!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Amazing build!
> 
> aren't you worried having the pump (esp ddc) just sit on top of the acrylic without any holes for airflow?
> it tends to run pretty hot
> 
> and what thickness is that acrylic?


thanks man! and i think it should be ok. I got that front fan blowing right on it and its also sitting on those little pads that came with it so i think the acrylic will be ok! its pretty thick stuff!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Amazing build!
> 
> aren't you worried having the pump (esp ddc) just sit on top of the acrylic without any holes for airflow?
> it tends to run pretty hot
> 
> and what thickness is that acrylic?
> 
> 
> 
> Most acrylic has a melting point of 160 degrees Celsius. The highest operating temperature for that pump is only 60 Celsius. I think he has nothing to worry about with it sitting on top like that. If that's what you were getting at.
Click to expand...

I think he is referring to the fact that DDC's are known for failing when they get hot.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Oh yeah you bet it does and thanks for the words!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah full full circle come tuesday or wed! *Gotta install my ram block! got the modules and fittings on the way!*
> thanks man! and i think it should be ok. I got that front fan blowing right on it and its also sitting on those little pads that came with it so i think the acrylic will be ok! its pretty thick stuff!


Wow memory blocks too?? Awesome.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think he is referring to the fact that DDC's are known for failing when they get hot.


Yea I wasn't sure. But with that pump where it is, and the 120mm in the front blowing towards it....shouldn't make a difference whether that PSU cover is acrylic or metal.


----------



## protzman

So what you think i should be worried about it getting to hot? I think it feels alright. Its warm but not hot at all?

and yeah Matching ram dominators! Stoked for those too


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its quite simple,you dont have permission from the builder to distribute his work,if they want to post it here then thats cool.
> It may well be that the builder doesnt want to post their work here for whatever reason.
> The ToS of this site says that OCN get ownership of the content posted,posting without the builders consent breaks this term.
> 
> Read the ToS before quoting it....


Not true, and I believe the ownership thing is currently under review. The pop-up when uploading images to OCN asks you if you have permission, but to assume anything posted on OCN becomes our property/content is just absurd. And impossible/illogical.

It's good practice ask permission, quote your sources and give credit where it's due, as well as its good practice to watermark your pictures if you are worried about people stealing them.

To be honest, if you doesn't want something to be shared on the internet, then don't post it on a public forum. Simple.

Anyhow, back on topic. If anyone would like any clarification out has any questions, please feel free to pm me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its quite simple,you dont have permission from the builder to distribute his work,if they want to post it here then thats cool.
> It may well be that the builder doesnt want to post their work here for whatever reason.
> The ToS of this site says that OCN get ownership of the content posted,posting without the builders consent breaks this term.
> 
> Read the ToS before quoting it....
> 
> 
> 
> Not true, and I believe the ownership thing is currently under review. The pop-up when uploading images to OCN asks you if you have permission, but to assume anything posted on OCN becomes our property/content is just absurd. And impossible/illogical.
> 
> It's good practice ask permission, quote your sources and give credit where it's due, as well as its good practice to watermark your pictures if you are worried about people stealing them.
> 
> To be honest, if you doesn't want something to be shared on the internet, then don't post it on a public forum. Simple.
> 
> Anyhow, back on topic. If anyone would like any clarification out has any questions, please feel free to pm me.
Click to expand...

Waffle,there was a massive thread about this and people have left this site regarding this particular ruling.
Now you are saying otherwise?
You say its good practice to ask permission yet the pop up ask specifically if you have it?
You say that assuming that OCN gets ownership of content is absurd yet the ownership rules are being looked at for this very reason?

•All legal content, information or any other form of member submission, that conforms with the site rules/terms of service, immediately becomes exclusive property of Overclock.net

Seems pretty clear to me....not so absurd or illogical,its in black and white.


----------



## Yukss

edit


----------



## HPE1000

Nice


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Do you live near an airport?


No, but I do have an Australian Shepherd, and I have a fan and such... Honestly, with the case closed, at ~75% speed they aren't loud enough to interfere with audio editing (or recording) with the case sitting ~6ft away (microphone used to determine noise floor of the room gives a total of 0.4dB increase in noise with the fans at 75% vs off....).

These aren't high-speed Delta's, or even Scythe UK3k's... Also, the Phobya 140/120x7mm Shroud/Decouplers really do help! Combined with rubber gaskets between the screw heads and the case, and there is no vibration. Those two little things combined decreased the noise probably 20% (guessing, didn't measure it; it's the same as the difference between running with a case door and without one on).

It should only get better once I get my custom top case panel made, as I hate the sound of the air going through the slats... I am re-doing it in Aluminum (along with the front panel, which will be open for the intake fans), with just 2 "bars" across the top (in-between the fans) for structural support, and filling the "holes" with Modder's Hexx-Mesh. Right now I'm guessing the resistance/blockage is around 50%, with the Modder's Mesh it will be ~6%. No more turbulence from the vents.


----------



## Smoothopr8tor07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and im using the mayhems pastel mint green. but tbh in real life inside my rig it looks yellow green, more yellow though but i think it still looks sweet!!


Looks good!!! I was wondering if you could help me out a bit? I am trying to construct a panel( midplate) I have a switch too. Would you happen to have the dimensions for the space the midplate would go? I'm not being lazy but I suck at this type of stuff and Im not sure I even measured right.


----------



## protzman

i didnt even measure! I kinda just cut and prayed for the best!


----------



## dartuil

how to dry a rad that got a little water?

and a apogee HD
thank u


----------



## MCCSolutions

What you guys think about this? Haven't finished yet but im getting there.....


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> how to dry a rad that got a little water?
> 
> and a apogee HD
> thank u


i spilt water on my rad before, all i did was let the fans run lol


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I agree. Rads internal or in a sperate rad box. I don't even kmow why he's gone for an external rad. You can get plenty of rad in a haf :/


I bought exact same rad as you for the inside since it was biggest i can fit with fans setup in push. Hopefully pull ontop of inside rad mount? And i just wanted the most rad i can get whilst it still being mobile. And the Bracket helped with that. Did not want to remove HDD cages Yet. Thought Overkill is underrated here. Now people hating looks haha. My goal was Performance in cooling.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> If that is a monster rad he is going to have some issues with clearance depending on his MOBO


Monsta rad will be Outside of case. The inside is AX XT45 and gives enough clearance for fans to push aswell. Hopefully pull when adding fans ontop of the rad bracket in my case (HAF X)


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> So what you think i should be worried about it getting to hot? I think it feels alright. Its warm but not hot at all?
> 
> and yeah Matching ram dominators! Stoked for those too


Yeah I was referring to the longevity of the pump due to intense heat


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I've even made a custom stand on my previous build so that airflow would directly flow all around it it
As far as i can remember from reading martins lab article, the pump hottest part is at the base of the pump
and directly sitting it on a solid materials wouldn't help thats why I've made custom stand which allow the pump to have direct airflow on the bottom

but hey, as long as you feel its still fine than doesn't matter
just some thoughts


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Yeah I was referring to the longevity of the pump due to intense heat
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even made a custom stand on my previous build so that airflow would directly flow all around it it
> As far as i can remember from reading martins lab article, the pump hottest part is at the base of the pump
> and directly sitting it on a solid materials wouldn't help thats why I've made custom stand which allow the pump to have direct airflow on the bottom
> 
> but hey, as long as you feel its still fine than doesn't matter
> just some thoughts


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13221/ex-pmp-138/Swiftech_MCP35X-HS_Pump_Heatsink_-_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-35035535X.html


----------



## sanitarium

I done gone and blue it up!


----------



## khemist

Switched out my qdc's so i can easily move out the radiator and clean it.



Need to clean up the PCIE cables but i'm going to be changing all the psu cables/tubing and coolant in the next few days so will get a pic up then.. only thing is that there is a small build up of Green strands just over the core of the GPU and you can see it in the pic.

I need to open it up to remove that but i heard it's a total ***** to get the o-ring back in.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Just got done mounting the rad for my SCORTCH Build: http://www.overclock.net/t/1359900/scorch-build-by-mccsolutions-another-all-red-amd-build-phenom-ii-965-oc-budget-build-hd5750-red-and-pink-cathodes-thermaltake-v3-black-amd-edition/10#post_19308727


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Need to clean up the PCIE cables but i'm going to be changing all the psu cables/tubing and coolant in the next few days so will get a pic up then.. only thing is that there is a small build up of Green strands just over the core of the GPU and you can see it in the pic.
> 
> I need to open it up to remove that but i heard it's a total ***** to get the o-ring back in.


Try using really small strips of tape around the block to golf the o ring in place, place the top back, and carefully wickle the tape strips out while holding the top if the block down.

That worked like a charm for me.. If you didnt get it ask and i'll explain again.

Hope this helps!

Meisseli


----------



## Systemlord

Here's a picture of my Asus Maximus V Extreme full coverage water block, I've had it with this POS point and shoot camera! Time to get a DSLR!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> I done gone and blue it up!


Beautiful led you got there!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> Try using really small strips of tape around the block to golf the o ring in place, place the top back, and carefully wickle the tape strips out while holding the top if the block down.
> 
> That worked like a charm for me.. If you didnt get it ask and i'll explain again.
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> Meisseli


Thanks man.


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Beautiful led you got there!


thank you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Need to clean up the PCIE cables but i'm going to be changing all the psu cables/tubing and coolant in the next few days so will get a pic up then.. only thing is that there is a small build up of Green strands just over the core of the GPU and you can see it in the pic.
> 
> I need to open it up to remove that but i heard it's a total ***** to get the o-ring back in.
> 
> 
> 
> Try using really small strips of tape around the block to golf the o ring in place, place the top back, and carefully wickle the tape strips out while holding the top if the block down.
> 
> That worked like a charm for me.. If you didnt get it ask and i'll explain again.
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> Meisseli
Click to expand...

You can use a small amount of silicone grease to hold the o-ring in place also,the tape method can cause the o-ring to move when you pull it out so when you clamp it down it gets cut,done it myself a few times....


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> thank you


I'm trying to get a blue led ambient like yours, but also with UV strips. clear tubes and bright blue UV reactive coolant. The hardest part is to find a hidden place for the light, being also near the tubing to get a nice effect, damn.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to get a blue led ambient like yours, but also with UV strips. clear tubes and bright blue UV reactive coolant. The hardest part is to find a hidden place for the light, being also near the tubing to get a nice effect, damn.
Click to expand...

CCFL tends to have the best UV effect if thats what you are looking for.


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can use a small amount of silicone grease to hold the o-ring in place also,the tape method can cause the o-ring to move when you pull it out so when you clamp it down it gets cut,done it myself a few times....


Yep but it helps to have a clear plexi top, you can see the o-ring.


----------



## mr one

IS there maybe some place where i could get EK HF plexi top? i kinda dont like that acetal top


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> IS there maybe some place where i could get EK HF plexi top? i kinda dont like that acetal top


Iirc ek's own shop has all kind of plexi tops, shipping aint that bad ( atleast for me living in Finland) for me it was 15€ for 1day delivery...


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Here's a picture of my Asus Maximus V Extreme full coverage water block, I've had it with this POS point and shoot camera! Time to get a DSLR!


Did you do the carbon fiber treatment on it? I assume so but just wondering - I'm not usually partial to fake CF on stuff, but with how much I love the lego circles







I think it improves it quite a bit.









EDIT - Just saw it in it's 'default' nickel garb.

So looking at it... the PLX chip and the VRM/MOSFET banks are actively cooled and the Z77 SB is passively cooled... at least it sure looks like it unless there's backflow through the POM top to the SB area.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> I bought exact same rad as you for the inside since it was biggest i can fit with fans setup in push. Hopefully pull ontop of inside rad mount? And i just wanted the most rad i can get whilst it still being mobile. And the Bracket helped with that. Did not want to remove HDD cages Yet. Thought Overkill is underrated here. Now people hating looks haha. My goal was Performance in cooling.


You can get a lot more rad in and keep the hard drive cageaif you're going to do some modding using Phobya Xtreme 200 and 400 rads


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> You can get a lot more rad in and keep the hard drive cageaif you're going to do some modding using Phobya Xtreme 200 and 400 rads


Will it be without a fan or is there space for a fan? Maybe i try that but i'll be using all my drive bays soon for different things but a drive


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Will it be without a fan or is there space for a fan? Maybe i try that but i'll be using all my drive bays soon for different things but a drive


there is space for a fan, yeah


----------



## TheOx

So I just stripped down my loop as I have a new case. My cpu block looks like this, I take it that it is plasticiser and staining of my block.





I'm thinking of using the juice of a fresh lemon to clean the block then soak in vinegar/distilled solution as i've seen it done before. Is this the best way to to it or is there better.

As for fittings i want to clean them up a little, should I just soak them in some vinegar/distilled solution? I have black nickel EK compression fittings if you must know.


----------



## nleksan

This is how I think the CSQ would look best....


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> I'm trying to get a blue led ambient like yours, but also with UV strips. clear tubes and bright blue UV reactive coolant. The hardest part is to find a hidden place for the light, being also near the tubing to get a nice effect, damn.


to be honest, i was just at walmart buying food and beer, and stopped by the automotive section and picked up the blue led strips on a whim. the ambient effect of mine is mostly from how reflective the tubing is.
the effect you want would be better/stronger with the UV you mentioned most likely, but with the price (cheap) of the strips, might as well try a few different options.


----------



## Yukss

Here some updates... custom acrilic side panel door.. (crap cellphone images)

Before


Working on it.


----------



## Crooksy

Where do you guys find all your screws that will be capable of holding your fans to your radiators.

I can't seem to find any M3-0.5 30mm screws


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Where do you guys find all your screws that will be capable of holding your fans to your radiators.
> 
> I can't seem to find any M3-0.5 30mm screws


Here i ordered the black nickel screws to replace the copper screws alphacool ships with his radiators, that unfortunately don't mix with my build at all D:

EDIT: you can find them on mdpc.com too.


----------



## IRONDUKEFLUKE

[/URL]


----------



## dumbazz

"TheOx" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/37700_20#post_19311148"]So I just stripped down my loop as I have a new case. My cpu block looks like this, I take it that it is plasticiser and staining of my block.

I'm thinking of using the juice of a fresh lemon to clean the block then soak in vinegar/distilled solution as i've seen it done before. Is this the best way to to it or is there better.

As for fittings i want to clean them up a little, should I just soak them in some vinegar/distilled solution? I have black nickel EK compression fittings if you must know.[/quote]

& finish it off with baking soda vinegar is acid as well as lemon.


----------



## IRONDUKEFLUKE

This is my game rig I built a couple of months ago. I mounted my Rads under my tower.


----------



## dumbazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Here some updates... custom acrilic side panel door.. (crap cellphone images)
> 
> I`d like a Pattern of that OC.Net. how much?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Where do you guys find all your screws that will be capable of holding your fans to your radiators.
> 
> I can't seem to find any M3-0.5 30mm screws


With you being in the UK I'm not sure, but I always buy all my screws and small hardware like that from McMaster-Carr. They have a massive selection of screws, nuts, washers. Basically any fastener related item you'd ever need


----------



## Xecutionr

Here is a few pics of my rig with specs..
Nothing way out there but I love my set up lol

Overclocked 3.25GHz @ 39 celcius 100% stress via Prime95


----------



## chann3l

Question gonna add my gpu in a month or so should I get the koolance 7970 block or the ek block with backplate?


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> This is how I think the CSQ would look best....


That actually looks really good


----------



## Qu1ckset

*Before*









** this before i added the Mayhems Pink UV dye and destroyed my tubes, don't have any pics of the pink running in my system **

*Draining*









** You can see how stained the tubes are from the pink UV dye **









** From left to right primochill primoflex advanced Crystal Clear> Stained Crystal Clear> Bloodshed Red **

*Finished Build*









** Re-Tubed **









** Filled **









** With Door On **

I will take more pics at night to show how UV reactive the bloodshed red tubes are


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Where do you guys find all your screws that will be capable of holding your fans to your radiators.
> 
> I can't seem to find any M3-0.5 30mm screws


I've purchased some parts for my TJ07 from ChilledPC in the UK, they do sell M3 and other sizes of screws there as well:
www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=60_146_197


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> So I just stripped down my loop as I have a new case. My cpu block looks like this, I take it that it is plasticiser and staining of my block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of using the juice of a fresh lemon to clean the block then soak in vinegar/distilled solution as i've seen it done before. Is this the best way to to it or is there better.
> 
> As for fittings i want to clean them up a little, should I just soak them in some vinegar/distilled solution? I have black nickel EK compression fittings if you must know.


I would strongly suggest not using anything acid like to clean anything Nickel plated.

The acid seems to dissolve the nickel. I had this happen on some BP compression fittings, and a few others also have.

My suggestion would be to pull the block apart and clean with warm water and old clean tooth brush.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,480's are incredible heat wise.
> 
> You had 580's Werm? What are they like for temps?


Mine run @ 44c under full load (SLI) and all im using atm (until i get my new case and rads which are on the way) is 1 x XSPC EX 240 and 1 X 120 Alphacool Nexxos Monsta with AP 1850's
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*


Did you add any blue to your Mint Green Pastel?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can use a small amount of silicone grease to hold the o-ring in place also,the tape method can cause the o-ring to move when you pull it out so when you clamp it down it gets cut,done it myself a few times....


*THIS^^*

I swear by the stuff for all my 'O' rings-i dive, so i always have a tube of it around-great stuff









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> IS there maybe some place where i could get EK HF plexi top? i kinda dont like that acetal top


If you are looking for the 'old' EK HF supreme plexi tops, only colours available are blue and green on EK's site-other than that, you're looking for a needle in a haystack

If your are referring to the CQ design, i haven't got a clue-i dont like them ergo, im not interested in anything they have









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> So I just stripped down my loop as I have a new case. My cpu block looks like this, I take it that it is plasticiser and staining of my block.
> 
> I'm thinking of using the juice of a fresh lemon to clean the block then soak in vinegar/distilled solution as i've seen it done before. Is this the best way to to it or is there better.
> 
> As for fittings i want to clean them up a little, should I just soak them in some vinegar/distilled solution? I have black nickel EK compression fittings if you must know.


*DO NOT* use either lemon juice nor Vinegar on nickel-it will more than likely cause severe tarnishing of the surface.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I would strongly suggest not using anything acid like to clean anything Nickel plated.
> 
> The acid seems to dissolve the nickel. I had this happen on some BP compression fittings, and a few others also have.
> 
> My suggestion would be to pull the block apart and clean with warm water and old clean tooth brush.


*THIS^^* and then get yourself some metal polish if you want to bring out the shine (remember to rinse off with Distilled water afterwards).


----------



## kcuestag

I heard using ketchup and a tooth brush is one of the best things for cleaning blocks, should I use this method whenever I clean my CPU Block? Mine is starting to look like that, I believe it's a mix of plasticizer from previous tubing as well as red dye I over used.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I heard using ketchup and a tooth brush is one of the best things for cleaning blocks, should I use this method whenever I clean my CPU Block? Mine is starting to look like that, I believe it's a mix of plasticizer from previous tubing as well as red dye I over used.


I've used ketchup before and it works good. I just don't like how thick it is. I normally use hot sauce on my blocks and it works great. It's like the old trick my dad showed me when I was real little of cleaning an old dirty penny with hot sauce, All three of mine are bare copper though. I wouldn't use anything that acidic on nickle plated blocks though.


----------



## Xecutionr

Or use coke? It's an acid lol


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Question gonna add my gpu in a month or so should I get the koolance 7970 block or the ek block with backplate?


----------



## IntelFanaTEK




----------



## MCCSolutions

A preview of my SCORCH build: http://www.overclock.net/t/1359900/scorch-build-by-mccsolutions-another-all-red-amd-build-phenom-ii-965-oc-budget-build-hd5750-red-and-pink-cathodes-thermaltake-v3-black-amd-edition/30#post_19312947

I still have alot of work to do, have to run cables, tubing, etc..... Looking good though!


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumbazz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Here some updates... custom acrilic side panel door.. (crap cellphone images)
> 
> I`d like a Pattern of that OC.Net. how much?
> 
> 
> 
> I made it myself. Donwload the ocn logo then i found the correct font.. i live in venezuela
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it would be very expensive to send to send it
Click to expand...


----------



## dartuil

if my rad got some limestone on it how to remove it?


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Not the best pics, but I just installed another XSPC EX240 rad into my rig. Apparently the Antec P280 could easily accomodate 480mm worth of radiators. Heck, even more if I put a 120mm in the rear.



And one more! Fan controller for my AP-15s in a hard drive tray.


----------



## kcuestag

For those rad experts, I plan on adquiring this Monsta 480mm rad in the future:

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p12878_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Monsta-480mm.html

Together with the small brother, a Monsta 240mm for the bottom, not in a hurry, probably won't happen for at least a month or two, now the question is, how would the 480mm Monsta perform with just 4x AP-15 fans on pull mode at like 1400-1500RPM ?

I plan on running the 480mm on pull and the bottom 240mm on push/pull.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

This thread makes me want to get back into watercooling..

Damn it..

Shall I do a watercooling build in my new case that is on its way to me, the Lian Li PC-U6?










Always up for a challenge.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> This thread makes me want to get back into watercooling..
> 
> Damn it..
> 
> Shall I do a watercooling build in my new case that is on its way to me, the Lian Li PC-U6?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always up for a challenge.


Doooo it! It looks like a conch shell. Lord of the Flies themed?


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Doooo it! It looks like a conch shell. Lord of the Flies themed?


Pokemon Omanyte build.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those rad experts, I plan on adquiring this Monsta 480mm rad in the future:
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p12878_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Monsta-480mm.html
> 
> Together with the small brother, a Monsta 240mm for the bottom, not in a hurry, probably won't happen for at least a month or two, now the question is, how would the 480mm Monsta perform with just 4x AP-15 fans on pull mode at like 1400-1500RPM ?
> 
> I plan on running the 480mm on pull and the bottom 240mm on push/pull.


i am not an expert but i think you will do better in push then in pull. and the performance increase of having a monsta in push/pull rather then just push is minuscule is what i've read... these extra think rads are made for quite performance so they have less FPI so that more air can pass through them easier with a single set


----------



## R3apR369

Wow, that's an interesting looking case O__o


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> Pokemon Omanyte build.


I like that idea better. Do that


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> i am not an expert but i think you will do better in push then in pull. and the performance increase of having a monsta in push/pull rather then just push is minuscule is what i've read... these extra think rads are made for quite performance so they have less FPI so that more air can pass through them easier with a single set


according to martin, push is better than pull. pull with a shroud is even better.
http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
Push Vs Pull - This depends on fan speed/power. The high speed fans at 2000RPM with a 38mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a push condition. The slow speed fans with 1350RPM with a 25mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a pull condition. I would estimate that performance line is likely to cross in the 1500-1700RPM range where they are equal. So.... slow speed = pull, high speed = push, medium speed = it doesn't really matter.


----------



## SonDa5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> according to martin, push is better than pull. pull with a shroud is even better.
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
> Push Vs Pull - This depends on fan speed/power. The high speed fans at 2000RPM with a 38mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a push condition. The slow speed fans with 1350RPM with a 25mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a pull condition. I would estimate that performance line is likely to cross in the 1500-1700RPM range where they are equal. So.... slow speed = pull, high speed = push, medium speed = it doesn't really matter.


The OCCOOL Monsta Rads that are 80mm thick have built in shroud in the design. It's just a small open area between the fan and the radiator. fins. About 5 or 6 mm. Not much but I think that small space helps create a shroud like effect.


----------



## pc-illiterate

lol yeah but im talking his 30mm shroud from tfc. i think all rads now have that 5 deep 'shroud'. a fan casing at 25mm plus the 5mm built into the rad....

and im too lazy to edit that up there. its 'pull is better than push with 25mm fans'.


----------



## LayerCakes

Has anyone ever thought of doing a two rad ad three fan sandwich? Like fans, rad, fans, rad, fans?

Like how the NH-D14 works with the dual tower design?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Has anyone ever thought of doing a two rad ad three fan sandwich? Like fans, rad, fans, rad, fans?
> 
> Like how the NH-D14 works with the dual tower design?


of course. why do you think swiftech made the stacker series and even included the stubby fittings with the rad? but i dont know of anywhere that has tests posted. i never googled it.

*EDIT* i'll be damned. google worked this time.
https://www.google.com/search?q=swiftech+stacker+rads+tested&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a
notice martin and skinnee have links in there.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Question gonna add my gpu in a month or so should I get the koolance 7970 block or the ek block with backplate?
Click to expand...

As you are in Vancouver, are you planning on getting one in Canada or the US?
I bought two of the EK blocks for my 7950's from Performance PC, with EK backplates. Their prices are quite good, but you'll get dinged for duty charges.
You will have to decide which block you like best for looks, if you don't mind the crop circles on the EK 7970 block, etc.
I doubt if there is much of a difference in performance between the two blocks, you have to decide which one looks better, cost, etc.


----------



## Red1776

Well i got the rough in done. lots of wire sleeving and have to replace the orange tubing, but temps Are great .
Heaven maxes GPU's [email protected] 43C @ 24C ambient. Running full parallel cooling.




2 X VPP-655 Pumps
2X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 240 Rad
1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 360 Rad
1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 120 Rad
Koolance 370A CPU Block
4 X Heatkiller GPU X-3 7970 GPU Blocks
1X Heatkiller GPU-X Multilink
Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
Primochill Tubing
Bitspower -z tank 250ML
Cosmos 2


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice Red1776, now go there please, very valuable info your rig can provide, I don't have any users like you

You are all invited to post your score Top 30 --- *Unigine 'Valley'* Benchmark 1.0

OC the hell out of your cards and CPU


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Nice Red1776, now go there please, very valuable info your rig can provide, I don't have any users like you
> 
> You are all invited to post your score Top 30 --- *Unigine 'Valley'* Benchmark 1.0
> 
> OC the hell out of your cards and CPU


Thanks KaRL
I quite literally just got it it fired up, but heaven 4.0 and 'Valley' were my next stop








BTW, is CF working yet for either? I just installed 13.2 beta 5


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Thanks KaRL
> I quite literally just got it it fired up, but heaven 4.0 and 'Valley' were my next stop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, is CF working yet for either? I just installed 13.2 beta 5


It works but trifire gets 66% Scaling and Quadfire has 50% scaling on all cards. We are waiting for Driver (Or profile) optimization. But if you want to get the most out of your Quad setup until a new driver release, follow this screenshot to have better scaling but not quite 100% (I would say average 75% on all cards, sometime 95% and other times its 55%)

Do a custom "Application profile" for Valley using *optimize 1x1* In Crossfire Mode

Can do the same for heaven 4.0


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> of course. why do you think swiftech made the stacker series and even included the stubby fittings with the rad? but i dont know of anywhere that has tests posted. i never googled it.
> 
> *EDIT* i'll be damned. google worked this time.
> https://www.google.com/search?q=swiftech+stacker+rads+tested&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a
> notice martin and skinnee have links in there.


Damn time traveling mind readers. They keep stealing my ideas.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> As you are in Vancouver, are you planning on getting one in Canada or the US?
> I bought two of the EK blocks for my 7950's from Performance PC, with EK backplates. Their prices are quite good, but you'll get dinged for duty charges.
> You will have to decide which block you like best for looks, if you don't mind the crop circles on the EK 7970 block, etc.
> I doubt if there is much of a difference in performance between the two blocks, you have to decide which one looks better, cost, etc.


Thanks for the advice I'll be ordering from daz mode good prices and their in Canada so ill have to make my pick between the koolance the ek and the heatkiller. I'll just decide which one looks best


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Well i got the rough in done. lots of wire sleeving and have to replace the orange tubing, but temps Are great .
> Heaven maxes GPU's [email protected] 43C @ 24C ambient. Running full parallel cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 X VPP-655 Pumps
> 2X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 240 Rad
> 1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 360 Rad
> 1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 120 Rad
> Koolance 370A CPU Block
> 4 X Heatkiller GPU X-3 7970 GPU Blocks
> 1X Heatkiller GPU-X Multilink
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
> Primochill Tubing
> Bitspower -z tank 250ML
> Cosmos 2


That cpu even with those clocks bottleneck those cards.. rigth?


----------



## dartuil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> if my rad got some limestone on it how to remove it?


no one?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> As you are in Vancouver, are you planning on getting one in Canada or the US?
> I bought two of the EK blocks for my 7950's from Performance PC, with EK backplates. Their prices are quite good, but you'll get dinged for duty charges.
> You will have to decide which block you like best for looks, if you don't mind the crop circles on the EK 7970 block, etc.
> I doubt if there is much of a difference in performance between the two blocks, you have to decide which one looks better, cost, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice I'll be ordering from daz mode good prices and their in Canada so ill have to make my pick between the koolance the ek and the heatkiller. I'll just decide which one looks best
Click to expand...

That will save you a bundle on shipping and duty buying from Daz.








Decisions, decisions!


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> i am not an expert but i think you will do better in push then in pull. and the performance increase of having a monsta in push/pull rather then just push is minuscule is what i've read... these extra think rads are made for quite performance so they have less FPI so that more air can pass through them easier with a single set


You are correct about Push being better than Pull, especially when it comes to radiators with significant resistance to flow (air-flow).

However, I have to disagree with your presumption that "thick radiators benefit little from push-pull because of low fin count" (paraphrasing). The resistance does not only come from the surface area of the fin cross-sections, but also from the distance the air must travel while "pressurized" by the fan, which results in friction developing, the airflow slowing down, and the loss in airflow velocity means that more already-warmed-up air is getting "trapped" (slowing down significantly) 1/2 to 2/3rds of the way through the radiator, and this warmed-up air cannot absorb the heat from the fins anywhere NEAR as effectively as it can when it's cooler.
Now, when you have push-pull, you don't have this issue because you're essentially maintaining a constant airflow velocity through the radiator at all times. The air travels through the rad so much more quickly that it does not have time to significantly heat up, it doesn't slow down enough that a significant boundary layer is likely to occur, and whatever boundary layer DOES occur is much more easily dispersed by the increased turbulence (from the increased velocity) of the Push-Pull fans' airflow.

In my own testing, I have found that thinner shrouds work best in Push-Pull setups, specifically the Phobya 120/140x7mm Shrouds/Decouplers; however, JUST AS IMPORTANT as the shroud is the seal!! The new XSPC Radiator Gaskets look like a fantastic product, especially at only $2.50 or so... By sealing the area between the fans and the radiator, as well as between the fans/radiator and the case, you are essentially maximizing the existing static pressure, giving the air nowhere to go but through the fins. It's the same exact idea as a case running positive pressure; if you leave panel gaps and such, the air will escape through every little crevice, no matter how invisible, but if you seal everything up then you can easily run a directed-airflow case without a single exhaust fan!

Point is: with the Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 84mm-thick radiators, STATIC PRESSURE IS KING! The best way to do this without creating one heck of a racket is with push-pull fans, as even when comparing 6x 25mm-thick fans in push-pull against 3x 38mm-thick fans in just push/just pull, the 25mm fans will be able to run at a lower speed to achieve the same level of cooling, which has two big benefits:
1) It's quieter for the vast majority of the time, and
2) There is still likely significant "overhead" should it be needed, simply be turning up the fans (whereas the Push-only/Pull-only setups would be running much closer to their maximum already).


----------



## Rollergold

My first custom loop. Nothing out of the ordinary here, I'm new to custom water cooling so I want to ease my self in to this.

HAF 932 + Corsair HX 850
i7 920 cooled by Swiftech Apogee HD
2x EVGA GTX 680 SC's with XSPC Razor Blocks
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator & Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Single 120mm Radiator
4x Gentle Typhoon 1150 (AP-13)
Swiftech MP655-SE Pump
Switech Maelstrom Res
Tygon R3603 5/8 OD 3/8 ID tubing, yes I know of its leeching problem. I will be watching it very closely and will replace it when I flush my system in 6 months or earlier if needed
Swiftech Lok Seal Compression Fittings
Primochill PC Pure Clear Fluid

If your wondering why I have 2 floppy SLI connectors, my 2 680's act like spoiled brats and demand both SLI fingers be used to enable SLI when in those PCIe Slots.

Clear Tubing and fluid, who needs colored tubing or fluid when you have LED light strips


Also is it just me or was anyone else just a slight bit nervous when they switched on their first custom loop for the first time? I spent over 8 months researching and planing, the system passed its 24+ hour leak test with ZERO leaks but even then I just a little nervous when I pushed the power button for the first time.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Well i got the rough in done. lots of wire sleeving and have to replace the orange tubing, but temps Are great .
> Heaven maxes GPU's [email protected] 43C @ 24C ambient. Running full parallel cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 X VPP-655 Pumps
> 2X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 240 Rad
> 1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 360 Rad
> 1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 120 Rad
> Koolance 370A CPU Block
> 4 X Heatkiller GPU X-3 7970 GPU Blocks
> 1X Heatkiller GPU-X Multilink
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
> Primochill Tubing
> Bitspower -z tank 250ML
> Cosmos 2
> 
> 
> 
> That cpu even with those clocks bottleneck those cards.. rigth?
Click to expand...

BF3

Dirt 3

Dirt Showdown

3DMARK11

Metro 2033


ETC...ETC, got a whole folder full of em NOT bottlenecking the quartet

...Nope


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I heard using ketchup and a tooth brush is one of the best things for cleaning blocks, should I use this method whenever I clean my CPU Block? Mine is starting to look like that, I believe it's a mix of plasticizer from previous tubing as well as red dye I over used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've used ketchup before and it works good. I just don't like how thick it is. I normally use hot sauce on my blocks and it works great. It's like the old trick my dad showed me when I was real little of cleaning an old dirty penny with hot sauce, All three of mine are bare copper though. I wouldn't use anything that acidic on nickle plated blocks though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xecutionr*
> 
> Or use coke? It's an acid lol
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Many thank for tips!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IntelFanaTEK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah...Your settings: 120mm thick Rad, Apogee Drive II and bay Reservoir thats what I've talkin *about*! , These are awesome simply instead of a [email protected] Close loop..


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> That will save you a bundle on shipping and duty buying from Daz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decisions, decisions!


Ya I purchased most of my loop from him and shipping with block and back plate is only 20 bucks. Ncix has the block but not the back plate and id rather not wait months for ncix to gave the block brought in either


----------



## protzman

can someone tell me if these temps are ok?
im new to wc so idk what to expect but this is running starcraft 2 and a few other applications at the same time.
Also my pc is on the floor i guess it would be a bit cooler if it were on the desk or something

thanks!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'll be tearing my rig down in the next week or so to hopefully install a couple of GTX Titans and if my EK blocks look that bad I may just end up getting new blocks rather than trying to disassemble them and clean them. I don't mind if they are stained as I will be running the same color again anyway...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> can someone tell me if these temps are ok?
> im new to wc so idk what to expect but this is running starcraft 2 and a few other applications at the same time.
> Also my pc is on the floor i guess it would be a bit cooler if it were on the desk or something
> 
> thanks!


its on stock clock, isnt it?
try and run intel burning test/prime 95
and see the temp result while at 100% load


----------



## protzman

okay was running prime. its not over yet but im seeing mostly like upper 40's occasionally a 51 deg C.
seems bad?

but also cpu says its clocking @ 4.1 during this test.
(its not oc'd to that but in the system info its saying that)


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> okay was running prime. its not over yet but im seeing mostly like upper 40's occasionally a 51 deg C.
> seems bad?
> 
> but also cpu says its clocking @ 4.1 during this test.
> (its not oc'd to that but in the system info its saying that)


I'm sorry its kinda hard to judge since I dont really know the system you are running ie what cpu, graphics, OC setting (maybe), and the water cooling components

however it would be great if you can get and use CPU-z, prime95 and real temp since theyre reliable


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Cause he is showing you Gpu heavy games with Multi monitor..
> 
> 
> 
> 1) why else would you have 4 x 7970'a ??/( for 1920 x 1080?
> 2) did you notice the resolution of the heaven benchmark?
> 3) Did you happen to notice I ended up in the top 10 heaven top 30 @ 1680x1050 at close to stock clocks?
> 4) I will will post any game you like
> 5) the point at which my 8350 bottlenecks is at the same point Your 3770 will bottleneck 4 x 7970's
> 6) Search your own threads for your own quote about BF3 being a CPU heavy game
> 7) don't ever ever get tired of being wrong?
> 
> Why dont you participate in thye spirit of an enthusiast site instead of practicing ' oneupmanship' and being petty by attempting to bring others down?
Click to expand...

Could you run Skyrim for us?


----------



## IntelFanaTEK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Yeah...Your settings: 120mm thick Rad, Apogee Drive II and bay Reservoir thats what I've talkin *about*! , These are awesome simply instead of a [email protected] Close loop..


Thanks man! Yah I wanted to keep it clean. The Antec 1100 case is a poor case for W/C setups but I'm working with it. I'm putting a 240 rad in there once I replace my olde twin 6950 HD gpus to a single gtx 690 or the new Titan or something. I don't want to exhaust heat from the CPU loop directly onto my GPU's. Plus I'd like to add a single GPU to a 360mm (total SA) loop. As is, the pair of GPU's are really high wattage draw and a couple of them is too much for even 360mm's of radiators.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IntelFanaTEK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Yeah...Your settings: 120mm thick Rad, Apogee Drive II and bay Reservoir thats what I've talkin *about*! , These are awesome simply instead of a [email protected] Close loop..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man! Yah I wanted to keep it clean. The Antec 1100 case is a poor case for W/C setups but I'm working with it. I'm putting a 240 rad in there once I replace my olde twin 6950 HD gpus to a single gtx 690 or the new Titan or something. I don't want to exhaust heat from the CPU loop directly onto my GPU's. Plus I'd like to add a single GPU to a 360mm (total SA) loop. As is, the pair of GPU's are really high wattage draw and a couple of them is too much for even 360mm's of radiators.
Click to expand...

I saw a Antec 1100 with dual 120s at the top at CES.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Did you do the carbon fiber treatment on it? I assume so but just wondering - I'm not usually partial to fake CF on stuff, but with how much I love the lego circles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it improves it quite a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT - Just saw it in it's 'default' nickel garb.
> 
> So looking at it... the PLX chip and the VRM/MOSFET banks are actively cooled and the Z77 SB is passively cooled... at least it sure looks like it unless there's backflow through the POM top to the SB area.


Believe me the 3M carbon fiber looks 50 times better in person, my camera doesn't do it justice!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> This is how I think the CSQ would look best....


That looks kind of cool, what kinf of stuff would stay in those grooves like your picture?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Well i got the rough in done. lots of wire sleeving and have to replace the orange tubing, but temps Are great .
> Heaven maxes GPU's [email protected] 43C @ 24C ambient. Running full parallel cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 X VPP-655 Pumps
> 2X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 240 Rad
> 1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 360 Rad
> 1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 120 Rad
> Koolance 370A CPU Block
> 4 X Heatkiller GPU X-3 7970 GPU Blocks
> 1X Heatkiller GPU-X Multilink
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
> Primochill Tubing
> Bitspower -z tank 250ML
> Cosmos 2


Wow!!!! Finally see em HK blocks in full smexy action!!! I is jelly of your HK stacked, smexy, quadies









How are the temps coming along? I'm stil on the fence on these gpus but HK is still my dream wc setup







. Btw, how's the quad bridge? I know this is HK's first quad bridge and it looks very good.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Well i got the rough in done. lots of wire sleeving and have to replace the orange tubing, but temps Are great .
> Heaven maxes GPU's [email protected] 43C @ 24C ambient. Running full parallel cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 X VPP-655 Pumps
> 2X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 240 Rad
> 1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 360 Rad
> 1X AlphaCool NeXxXos XT 45mm x 120 Rad
> Koolance 370A CPU Block
> 4 X Heatkiller GPU X-3 7970 GPU Blocks
> 1X Heatkiller GPU-X Multilink
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
> Primochill Tubing
> Bitspower -z tank 250ML
> Cosmos 2
> 
> 
> 
> Wow!!!! Finally see em HK blocks in full smexy action!!! I is jelly of your HK stacked, smexy, quadies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are the temps coming along? I'm stil on the fence on these gpus but HK is still my dream wc setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Btw, how's the quad bridge? I know this is HK's first quad bridge and it looks very good.
Click to expand...

They are idling @ 28c and heaven maxes them @ 43c. I am really liking the bridge so far. running full parallel and working very well. it comes with an adapter to convert to serial


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> what is this... amateur hour?
> 
> lets talk about water cooling now plz.


How many RPM are your radiator fans running at?


----------



## Red1776

about 1800 RPM


----------



## Penryn

Keep it clean please. No need to argue like kids.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Cause he is showing you Gpu heavy games with Multi monitor..
> 
> 
> 
> 1) *why else would you have 4 x 7970'a ??/( for 1920 x 1080?*
> 2) did you notice the resolution of the heaven benchmark?
> 3) Did you happen to notice I ended up in the top 10 heaven top 30 @ 1680x1050 at close to stock clocks?
> 4) I will will post any game you like
> 5) the point at which my 8350 bottlenecks is at the same point Your 3770 will bottleneck 4 x 7970's
> 6) Search your own threads for your own quote about BF3 being a CPU heavy game
> 7) don't ever ever get tired of being wrong?
> 
> Why dont you participate in thye spirit of an enthusiast site instead of practicing ' oneupmanship' and being petty by attempting to bring others down?
Click to expand...

This.

CPU bottlenecks are for the lo res guys,not for multi monitor action.
As for the Vishera chip being 50% slower.....what a load of bunk that is,Its been shown to run with the IB i7 chip,in heavy multi thread it is better than the i7.

As long as he is getting 100% usage then whats the problem Hokies?

More important than all this is this is the OCN WC thread,not a CPU GPU ***** fight thread.

Nice rig Red.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I know it's off topic (OK it's on topic - but not for the thread... sorry B-Neg) but I'm actually really curious why people all over the web seem to think that buying something provides cache of some sort - well, other than simply monetary that is.

There are Intel vs. AMD wars, MacOS vs Windows vs Linux wars, ATi/AMD vs Nvidia wars, Big-Three vs Japanese vs German, Tubes vs Solid State, Gas vs Electric, Paper vs Plastic, etc....

I can totally understand if you are one of the engineers of a hardware platform getting all butt-hurt over someone saying something derogatory about it (although I still think getting upset over someone simply choosing to purchase the competition is a little silly and selfish). But that's not the case... it's simply about what people SPENT THEIR OWN MONEY ON... why should it matter (particularly in this thread) if someone wants to run a 386 and use a Zip disk as a boot drive... as long as it's _watercooled_...









I love my Intel chips - I love looking at pictures of Red's AMD rig... and I'm totally fine with the fact that more than a few people on this site have more money invested in their systems than I have in my home theater (including the furniture probably - I'm looking at you Stren & Cpachris)... can't we all just get along.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I know it's off topic (OK it's on topic - but not for the thread... sorry B-Neg) but I'm actually really curious why people all over the web seem to think that buying something provides cache of some sort - well, other than simply monetary that is.
> 
> There are Intel vs. AMD wars, MacOS vs Windows vs Linux wars, ATi/AMD vs Nvidia wars, Big-Three vs Japanese vs German, Tubes vs Solid State, Gas vs Electric, Paper vs Plastic, etc....
> 
> I can totally understand if you are one of the engineers of a hardware platform getting all butt-hurt over someone saying something derogatory about it (although I still think getting upset over someone simply choosing to purchase the competition is a little silly and selfish). But that's not the case... it's simply about what people SPENT THEIR OWN MONEY ON... why should it matter (particularly in this thread) if someone wants to run a 386 and use a Zip disk as a boot drive... as long as it's _watercooled_...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my Intel chips - I love looking at pictures of Red's AMD rig... and I'm totally fine with the fact that more than a few people on this site have more money invested in their systems than I have in my home theater (including the furniture probably - I'm looking at you Stren & Cpachris)... can't we all just get along.


People like to justify how much they spent,especially if they go for high end gear and spent a lot of money on it
One of the reasons why i stopped posting in GPU/CPU threads,people using lo-res benches to dismiss a product when said product will never be used in those conditions is strange to me.


----------



## Yukss

Oh god, i was the one who quoted red's image post which of course is a killer rig but in my case, being a forme amd cpu user for a long time, i would not but that or any amd cpu to run those cards.. to much money invested to ruin it with that cpu-mobo combo.. i not see the point of it. I mean you know you are building an overkiller rig, so why that cpu? Is a waste of money if you are a "bencher" even for gaming, be safe and buy the best.. even my cpu at my clocks will crush any results againts your amd chip (of course with your cards)

Nice pics again


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IntelFanaTEK*
> 
> Thanks man! Yah I wanted to keep it clean. The Antec 1100 case is a poor case for W/C setups but I'm working with it. I'm putting a 240 rad in there once I replace my olde twin 6950 HD gpus to a single gtx 690 or the new Titan or something. I don't want to exhaust heat from the CPU loop directly onto my GPU's. Plus I'd like to add a single GPU to a 360mm (total SA) loop. As is, the pair of GPU's are really high wattage draw and a couple of them is too much for even 360mm's of radiators.


Hey do you by any chance still have your 6950's I want to buy one or both?....


----------



## Meisseli

I really am with B-neg on this one... Zip up boys, pissing contest is over! And you both will crush my rig (obviously) and so does a lot of other people too. But I'm fine with that, coz i run a 1920x1080 setup everything maxed out at 60+ fps... If you run a rig with x000$ invested in it I am sure you all have your own reasons for using this or that cpu, GPU(s), cooling setup, mobo, you name it... So if you really like to critisize on someone's rig do it to mine, I am pleased about it and i can take it...

So quoting on B-neg, now WATER COOLING...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> I really am with B-neg on this one... *Zip up boys, pissing contest is over!* And you both will crush my rig (obviously) and so does a lot of other people too. But I'm fine with that, coz i run a 1920x1080 setup everything maxed out at 60+ fps... If you run a rig with x000$ invested in it I am sure you all have your own reasons for using this or that cpu, GPU(s), cooling setup, mobo, you name it... So if you really like to critisize on someone's rig do it to mine, I am pleased about it and i can take it...
> 
> So quoting on B-neg, now WATER COOLING...












Just one more from me....

Arctic Water got its new brain today!



You all know whats coming...


----------



## driftingforlife

Love it


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Well i got the rough in done. lots of wire sleeving and have to replace the orange tubing, but temps Are great .
> Heaven maxes GPU's [email protected] 43C @ 24C ambient. Running full parallel cooling.


Awesome setup man! I had that motherboard once, and loved it! I think this is the first time I have seen it populated with 4 GPU's.. very awesome.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Love it


I shouldnt really post meme's but....


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just one more from me....
> 
> Arctic Water got its new brain today!
> 
> cut
> 
> You all know whats coming...
> 
> cut


You basically build up loops for clients?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just one more from me....
> 
> Arctic Water got its new brain today!
> 
> cut
> 
> You all know whats coming...
> 
> cut
> 
> 
> 
> You basically build up loops for clients?
Click to expand...

No,I build whole rigs for people.


----------



## driftingforlife

Off T



On T

Bneg, could I hire you to make some metal work for my V8 if I ever get round to finishing it









The stat my rig is in now


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,I build whole rigs for people.


But how are your clients going to deal with things like maintenance if they don't know anything about watercooling?
I'm just curious that's all


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,I build whole rigs for people.
> 
> 
> 
> But how are your clients going to deal with things like maintenance if they don't know anything about watercooling?
> I'm just curious that's all
Click to expand...

I do a years maintainence at their house,they get shown what to do if they want to do it for themselves.

Remember that i only need to do a fluid change every 12-18 months with this type of loop,If i put a glycol based fluid it will last for years.

Copper tube does more than look pretty,it adds copper ions to the water making it hostile for organisms
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Off T
> 
> 
> 
> On T
> 
> Bneg, could I hire you to make some metal work for my V8 if I ever get round to finishing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stat my rig is in now


For sure! Let me know what you want.

If anyone has any other questions,can you PM me as this is not the thread for it.


----------



## brettjv

The flamewar has been cleaned, lets stay on topic moving forward guys


----------



## kyismaster




----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brettjv*
> 
> The flamewar has been cleaned, lets stay on topic moving forward guys


well played







In other news full cover 7970 block or universal plus vrm and memory heatsinks? works out to the same price but with the universal im covered for future cards. Opinions?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> well played
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news full cover 7970 block or universal plus vrm and memory heatsinks? works out to the same price but with the universal im covered for future cards. Opinions?


Go with a full cover block. I recommend either the Koolance Block (what I have) or the Heatkiller block. Both of them are awesome!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Go with a full cover block. I recommend either the Koolance Block (what I have) or the Heatkiller block. Both of them are awesome!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Awesome thanks I think I'll go with the koolance one. There is no back plate available for it and if I get one that has a backplate I'll have no choice but to and I dont want to spend the money


----------



## protzman

hey i have a gtx 680 and a 3770k both stock speeds. a 360 on the top and a 240 on the bottom of my rig. Using ek's water blocks and rads. What kind of temps would you say i should be getting. Im looking at HWmonitor but its never really a constant temp. right now all im doing is ocn and it says that min temp for package ( i guess thats all cores combined) is 34 celcius and max is 42. Idk what really too look for / what to compare it too!? any help plz?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> hey i have a gtx 680 and a 3770k both stock speeds. a 360 on the top and a 240 on the bottom of my rig. Using ek's water blocks and rads. What kind of temps would you say i should be getting. Im looking at HWmonitor but its never really a constant temp. right now all im doing is ocn and it says that min temp for package ( i guess thats all cores combined) is 34 celcius and max is 42. Idk what really too look for / what to compare it too!? any help plz?


You havent mentioned what your ambient temp is, what fans you are using, what speed, whether you are asking for average temps under load, or just idle etc etc-my point is that you have to provide more info to get a reply to your question


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> hey i have a gtx 680 and a 3770k both stock speeds.


What are these "stock speeds" you speak of









You want to go off core temps.


----------



## h2on0

My first attempt at watercooling.



Which led to this...



I didn't like the looks of the drain port/tube....



Subsequently the xspc D5 dual bay res leaked at the warped top so I plugged it with silicon and had a working solution, but when I told my wife she said "how much have you spent on that computer? A $1000? I answered "yes?" and she said maybe I should just fix it right so I ordered these....



I would welcome any suggestions or tips since I am less than a month into actual watercooling and boy is it a blast.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> You havent mentioned what your ambient temp is, what fans you are using, what speed, whether you are asking for average temps under load, or just idle etc etc-my point is that you have to provide more info to get a reply to your question


ambient temps idk really, but im using gelid wing 12's, and I have them turned down pretty low for now (just idling).
Last night thought I ran prime 95 so cpu @ 100% was clocked at 4.1ghz (i think the turbo w.e was on because i havent over clocked yet) and was getting temps in the upper 40's for pretty much all cores.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> What are these "stock speeds" you speak of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You want to go off core temps.


i mean the stock speed for my cpu is 3.9ghz but for instance right now while just on overclock its running around 1.9 using 3%

heres a screen cap of current stats.



and here is last night mid prime95 run cpu @ 100% @ 4.1 ghz!


----------



## audioholic

How would Gelid Wings work on say an RS and EX 240mm radiators? I have four of them sitting here. And am thinking instead of buying all new fans going with those.


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2on0*
> 
> Subsequently the xspc D5 dual bay res leaked at the warped top so I plugged it with silicon and had a working solution, but when I told my wife she said "how much have you spent on that computer? A $1000? I answered "yes?" and she said maybe I should just fix it right so I ordered these....


consider yourself lucky like i do!

seems like alot of the partnered enthusiasts here wouldnt have such an understanding signifigant other









Some updates:
OLD



NEW
I painted the HDD cage i used as a replacement for the one i had to remove to fit the gtx black ice 360
It was ripped out of an antec 900
as you can see i also placed a fan under it , helps move the heat away that comes off the rad (dropped from occasional 45C to 37~)


I also didnt like the way the pump was mounted (or rather not mounted) to the psu, it was ugly and made more noise than i liked. Also the tube comming from the cpu block to the pump was kinked
so this is what i came up with. It fixed all these issues. ( still brainstorming ways i can further silence the pump, however it is very quiet as is)
its a bit crooked, can be fixed later when a get some new drill bits.
some foam under it to prevent vibrations




I managed to finaly buy a proper plug for the top of my res, so i was able to reinstall my optical drive











I also finaly bought some screws for my fans. There was supposed to be 6 fans on the rad, but i accidentaly fried one.. which i guess is ok cause i can fit the new hdd bay snugly under the missing spot.



And finaly an overall shot of how it looks.



oh also i re-used the old stock fan i had as a vrm cooler









can anyone reccomend me a vrm block that would work with my board so i can get rid of it???

asus m5a97 evo


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> How would Gelid Wings work on say an RS and EX 240mm radiators? I have four of them sitting here. And am thinking instead of buying all new fans going with those.


so. weak.


----------



## AlaskaFox

anyone know where i can get this or equivilant from another brand
http://koolance.com/mvr-40-motherboard-vreg-water-block

and this

http://koolance.com/mvr-heat-transfer-plate-1075mm

in canada?

cant find anything like it on dazmode

the shipping direct from koolance costs more than the units themselves...


----------



## AlaskaFox

double post *


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> anyone know where i can get this or equivilant from another brand
> http://koolance.com/mvr-40-motherboard-vreg-water-block
> 
> and this
> 
> http://koolance.com/mvr-heat-transfer-plate-1075mm
> 
> in canada?
> 
> cant find anything like it on dazmode
> 
> the shipping direct from koolance costs more than the units themselves...


check ncix there overall selection for watercooling isn't great but they havea lot of random stuff
heres the plate
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=74053


----------



## dumbazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> anyone know where i can get this or equivilant from another brand
> http://koolance.com/mvr-40-motherboard-vreg-water-block
> 
> and this
> 
> http://koolance.com/mvr-heat-transfer-plate-1075mm
> 
> in canada?
> 
> cant find anything like it on dazmode
> 
> the shipping direct from koolance costs more than the units themselves...


http://www.frozencpu.com/index.html?id=8a3thy5N
tit for tat


----------



## chann3l

^^^^ If you order from the states beware that you may get charged duty. I've never ordered from frozencpu.com but i ordered a backpack once from the states and i had to pay 30 dollars in duty when it arrived at my door lol


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> check ncix there overall selection for watercooling isn't great but they havea lot of random stuff
> heres the plate
> http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=74053


They dont have the size i need... maybe if i were to cut the large one... hm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumbazz*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/index.html?id=8a3thy5N
> tit for tat


good news and bad news

good
the shipping is less than the unit itself

bad
thats cause the unit is more expensive there

=/
Thanks though guys.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> They dont have the size i need... maybe if i were to cut the large one... hm
> good news and bad news
> 
> good
> the shipping is less than the unit itself
> 
> bad
> thats cause the unit is more expensive there
> 
> =/
> Thanks though guys.


No problem I couldn't find the block at ncix for you anyways like i said they have a lot of stuff but not always matching parts it's kind of dumb. Maybe send an email to daz and see if he can get them in for less money or something


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> No problem I couldn't find the block at ncix for you anyways like i said they have a lot of stuff but not always matching parts it's kind of dumb. Maybe send an email to daz and see if he can get them in for less money or something


thats actualy a pretty good idea, people have said daz is rather responsive to emails and requests.

i think ill do that tomorow


----------



## dumbazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> thats actualy a pretty good idea, people have said daz is rather responsive to emails and requests.
> 
> i think ill do that tomorow


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=Koolance+MVR-40+&_sacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## airplaneman

I wanted to get some opinions on a color scheme.

Thinking of doing a white case, orange tubing and white/orange/grey heatshrink on the cables.

Thoughts? Does anyone have any pics of something similar? Would green be better than orange?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> I wanted to get some opinions on a color scheme.
> 
> Thinking of doing a white case, orange tubing and white/orange/grey heatshrink on the cables.
> 
> Thoughts? Does anyone have any pics of something similar? Would green be better than orange?


is the case going to be your TJ07?








Regardless, I like your color scheme, but I'd skip the green.


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumbazz*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=Koolance+MVR-40+&_sacat=0&_from=R40


cheaper.. but still no sign of that 107mm spreader i need


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> cheaper.. but still no sign of that 107mm spreader i need


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koolance-MVR-107-5mm-Heat-Transfer-Plate-/370753984989?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item5652a8d9dd

Jeffinslaw


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koolance-MVR-107-5mm-Heat-Transfer-Plate-/370753984989?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item5652a8d9dd
> 
> Jeffinslaw


what th-

where th-
whhaaaa????

okay, nevermind XD thank you! hopefuly these are still around when i have the finances for it.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> anyone know where i can get this or equivilant from another brand
> http://koolance.com/mvr-40-motherboard-vreg-water-block
> 
> and this
> 
> http://koolance.com/mvr-heat-transfer-plate-1075mm
> 
> in canada?
> 
> cant find anything like it on dazmode
> 
> the shipping direct from koolance costs more than the units themselves...


http://www.aquatuning.us/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=mvr-40&

Check my project log i'm going to use those universal blocks


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ambient temps idk really, but im using gelid wing 12's, and I have them turned down pretty low for now (just idling).
> Last night thought I ran prime 95 so cpu @ 100% was clocked at 4.1ghz (i think the turbo w.e was on because i havent over clocked yet) and was getting temps in the upper 40's for pretty much all cores.
> i mean the stock speed for my cpu is 3.9ghz but for instance right now while just on overclock its running around 1.9 using 3%
> 
> heres a screen cap of current stats.
> 
> 
> 
> and here is last night mid prime95 run cpu @ 100% @ 4.1 ghz!


anyone?


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> anyone?


My delidded 3770K never reach 60C full load at 4.6GHz with 1.23V vcore. Ambient is around 23C inside the case.









I never had the chance running my 3770K at stock speed.


----------



## King4x4

Delided 3770k at stock speeds with CLU applied on both waterblock and die...


----------



## tiborrr12

One of my first, delidded 3770K (95W part, not 77W - bought at product launch) runs at about 70°C thorough the cores at 4.5GHz and 1.25V (IBT with AVX). With the IHS on and reapplied TIM under the IHS it goes well above 90°C. Water temperature hovers around 30-31°C in both cases.


----------



## mr one

Seems good to me update?







also found today a freaking leak... after maybe one week....


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Can I join, my first attempt @ Water Cooling....


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Can I join, my first attempt @ Water Cooling....


Nice you can definitely tell that it's *not* your first attempt at _system building_ even if it is the first under water! Looks great!


----------



## iMica

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Can I join, my first attempt @ Water Cooling....






Was wondering is that a dual res setup lol? Bay res + cylinder res? Or is it just a bay pump (always been told pump should be under res.)


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> 
> Was wondering is that a dual res setup lol? Bay res + cylinder res? Or is it just a bay pump (always been told pump should be under res.)


It looks to me like his pump is at the bottom just in front of the PSU and at a guess he has another rad in the front bays of the case. But that's just speculation on my part of course.

EDIT - maybe that's just another rad at the bottom in which case you could be right.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> 
> Was wondering is that a dual res setup lol? Bay res + cylinder res? Or is it just a bay pump (always been told pump should be under res.)


It's a dual res, to clean up the tubing.....


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Nice you can definitely tell that it's *not* your first attempt at _system building_ even if it is the first under water! Looks great!


Thanks, it's my second system build & first @ water cooling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> 
> Was wondering is that a dual res setup lol? Bay res + cylinder res? Or is it just a bay pump (always been told pump should be under res.)


I have a XSPC Dual Bay Res with pump installed...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It looks to me like his pump is at the bottom just in front of the PSU and at a guess he has another rad in the front bays of the case. But that's just speculation on my part of course.
> 
> EDIT - maybe that's just another rad at the bottom in which case you could be right.


240 Rad is @ the bottom......


----------



## S1lv3rflame

So. I've made a little sketch on how, i'd plan to make my loop.

Any suggestions or is it an ok loop choice?

Reason why I ask in this club, is because of you're talents


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> 
> 
> So. I've made a little sketch on how, i'd plan to make my loop.
> 
> Any suggestions or is it an ok loop choice?
> 
> Reason why I ask in this club, is because of you're talents






I would say get a bay res and mount a rad up top. It should be easier then going out the back and having the rest near the gpu.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> I would say get a bay res and mount a rad up top. It should be easier then going out the back and having the rest near the gpu.


I've got a very limited budget, and this is the EK H360 thick rad kit costs 210£, and got it for me bday (the budget is in water, fittings ec)


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> I've got a very limited budget, and this is the EK H360 thick rad kit costs 210£, and got it for me bday (the budget is in water, fittings ec)


Oh you already have the kit. got it. Then that setup is fine there isn't really a better layout that you have with your other then changing where you put the rest and pump. I would put the pump lower then the res (maybe that is habbit from WC'ing) but makes sense to me you want your res to feed your pump.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Oh you already have the kit. got it. Then that setup is fine there isn't really a better layout that you have with your other then changing where you put the rest and pump. I would put the pump lower then the res (maybe that is habbit from WC'ing) but makes sense to me you want your res to feed your pump.


Okay. Got it. I can place it below, under my Psu cover








Much appreciated for the feedback









Btw. OCN = OverClockNet? Will post final results when done.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Okay. Got it. I can place it below, under my Psu cover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much appreciated for the feedback
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw. OCN = OverClockNet? Will post final results when done.


Under your psu cover?

I would say put the res on the motherboard tray wall.. and the pump below it run the pump to the gpu then to the outside rad then back to the cpu then cpu back to the res.

Make sense so you?


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Under your psu cover?
> 
> I would say put the res on the motherboard tray wall.. and the pump below it run the pump to the gpu then to the outside rad then back to the cpu then cpu back to the res.
> 
> Make sense so you?


That piece with the shark on, is a homemade Psu cover








I can sorta see, what you are going for. What about that 2nd 120mm rad in the bottom?
And regarding the res, my plan was to connect it with http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/ek-uni-holder-3156p.html to the expansions brackets.
Soo


----------



## GhostDog99

Hey guys heres my new rig wat do you think ?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Hey guys heres my new rig wat do you think ?


AMAZING!!
what coolant is that?
its tight, but neat enough
well done sir!

btw is that a kink potential on the loop between the res and pump? lol
but it seems that your tube is thick enough


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Hey guys heres my new rig wat do you think ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The tubing from the reservoir to pump looks way too forced, it looks like it's about to kink, might want to fix that. I'd also suggest 45º angled fittings from GPU to the top rad to make that piece of tubing straight.









Other than that, it looks amazing.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Hey guys heres my new rig wat do you think ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome, but why no EK Link for the two GPU's instead of the fitting?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> AMAZING!!
> what coolant is that?
> its tight, but neat enough
> well done sir!
> 
> btw is that a kink potential on the loop between the res and pump? lol
> but it seems that your tube is thick enough


thanks mate it is my second rig i have ever don
the coolant is mayhems red day but i put a lot in so i would get the purple color
it was red at firs but it looked to mutch like my first rig so i want with purple ( you can see my first rig in my sig )
and no ther is no kink it just looks like it in the pictures im not good a taking photos lol


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Looks awesome, but why no EK Link for the two GPU's instead of the fitting?


too answer all you questions ther is no EK link becuase i orderd the tri- SLi like with a blank link so if i want too add anther card i can
but thay sant me 3 space link so i sant it back and waiting for the right one should be here in a day or too

and once i get the EK SLI link the 45 angel will go on the rad
and the 90 angle will go from the link too the mobo
and it will look even better


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Hey guys heres my new rig wat do you think ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> thanks mate it is my second rig i have ever don
> the coolant is mayhems red day but i put a lot in so i would get the purple color
> it was red at firs but it looked to mutch like my first rig so i want with purple ( you can see my first rig in my sig )
> and no ther is no kink it just looks like it in the pictures im not good a taking photos lol


Good looking rig, I like the coolant color. But that sure does look like a kink to me...coming off the res and into the pump. A 45 there would help out.


----------



## wendersnaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Hey guys heres my new rig wat do you think ?


nice case!

just joined OCN to ask, what case is that?

thanks!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Hey guys heres my new rig wat do you think ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa man, nice work.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wendersnaven*
> 
> nice case!
> 
> just joined OCN to ask, what case is that?
> 
> thanks!


The Case is XSPC H2
here is a link
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_978&products_id=33432


----------



## RKTGX95

if i plan a water loop order and i'd like to split it to two (since i don't have too much time and by getting a half i'd be more motivated, plus *this* grabs my attention) what would you all recommend to get in the first order and what in the second? (could include some accessories)

mainly i'm splitting because i wait for the new Phobya fans. (e Loop)


----------



## MiiX

Whats so special about theese eLoop's? :\
Is it theese fans: http://www.aquatuning.no/product_info.php/info/p15211_Phobya-NB-eLoop-1600rpm---Bionic-Fan---120x120x25mm--.html


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Whats so special about theese eLoop's? :\
> Is it theese fans: http://www.aquatuning.no/product_info.php/info/p15211_Phobya-NB-eLoop-1600rpm---Bionic-Fan---120x120x25mm--.html


well, firstly these are quite the sexy fans. (as non LED red fans)
secondly, i'm waiting for the lower RPM SKUs and availability on PPCS.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Whats so special about theese eLoop's? :\
> Is it theese fans: http://www.aquatuning.no/product_info.php/info/p15211_Phobya-NB-eLoop-1600rpm---Bionic-Fan---120x120x25mm--.html


I can only comment on the PWM version of the fans but they have a fantastic noise profile and they seem to have sufficient pressure to be used on radiators.


----------



## audioholic

I just ordered a BF recon and a Corsair SP "quiet" and a GT AP-15. I wasn't sure on the Corsair fan since I am getting a fan controller if the "quiet" or "high performance" edition would be a difference. Next check I will order a e-loop and see which of the 3 I choose


----------



## Crooksy

I noticed this on the Laing DDC pump product page -

*Materials in contact with the coolant:*
Stainless steel 1.4571, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-Rings, *Aluminium oxide*, hard coal

Isn't Aluminium bad to have in contact with the coolant if you have brass, copper etc?


----------



## GhostDog99

i have used a lot of fans and the best performance to noise ratio fas for radiators are AP 15
AP 15s arethe best fans ever but my not look as good as other fas


----------



## audioholic

Not to concerned on looks over noise to performance ratio. I plan on dying them anyway







thanks for the input


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Not to concerned on looks over noise to performance ratio. I plan on dying them anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for the input


to some the fans aren't too important aesthetics wise (since they are either not visible or modded like you) but to me its a little important and its a nice little touch for me.

if you consider buying fans for testing, i have always wondered on the Xigmatek XAF fan (link) would look like if someone were to replace the white LED with red. (if anyone would do that it would contribute the community a lot. hopefully)

also, any input on using different fans on a rad for push pull?


----------



## audioholic

I'm not testing really as the only equipment I have is my ears.Although I do plan on seeing if there is a temperature difference between the three.


----------



## audioholic

On a side note if I sand my radiator shroud(painted white) do I have to worry about anything getting into anything besides the ports?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I'm not testing really as the only equipment I have is my ears.Although I do plan on seeing if there is a temperature difference between the three.


just hoped you have a solder of a sort and 4 red LEDs









nevertheless, thank you for willing to buy fans to test them to the benefit of the internet







(a rare bread)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> i have used a lot of fans and the best performance to noise ratio fas for radiators are AP 15
> AP 15s arethe best fans ever but my not look as good as other fas


As an owner and user of both AP-15s and the eLoops, I would take the eLoops.


----------



## audioholic

Oh I can do that too







I also have hot glue. Send me a PM


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Oh I can do that too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have hot glue. Send me a PM


nothing too serious or demanding that requires a whole PM, just notify my if you ever get the Xigmatek XAF fan (or open a thread) so i could watch (and jealous







)


----------



## Crooksy

I noticed this on the Laing DDC pump product page -

*Materials in contact with the coolant:*
Stainless steel 1.4571, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-Rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal

Isn't Aluminium bad to have in contact with the coolant if you have brass, copper etc?


----------



## mandrix

Reaching for the sky....


----------



## Plutonium10

On the topic of AP-15s, I was initially fairly disappointing with mine because I was able to hear an annoying high-pitched whistling sound whenever they were running. A few conclusions I've drawn since then are that:

a) They whistle the worst when changing speed, so a set-and-forget fan speed helps a lot.
b) They seem to develop a harmonic frequency at certain RPMs if they are all on the same rad, even with vibration damping gaskets. For this reason I set mine at 3 different speeds on a 360 rad (1150 rpm, 850, and 1000 rpm for example) and the noise seems to be less pronounced.
d) A lot of people are completely oblivious to the whistling noise although I find it quite irritating, as do some others I've talked to. Some are just more sensitive to high-pitched noises than others.

In any case, I might pick up some NB E-loops or Corsair SP120s to find out if they have a less noticeable tonality.


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Reaching for the sky....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like a turret.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> On the topic of AP-15s, I was initially fairly disappointing with mine because I was able to hear an annoying high-pitched whistling sound whenever they were running. A few conclusions I've drawn since then are that:
> 
> a) They whistle the worst when changing speed, so a set-and-forget fan speed helps a lot.
> b) They seem to develop a harmonic frequency at certain RPMs if they are all on the same rad, even with vibration damping gaskets. For this reason I set mine at 3 different speeds on a 360 rad (1150 rpm, 850, and 1000 rpm for example) and the noise seems to be less pronounced.
> d) A lot of people are completely oblivious to the whistling noise although I find it quite irritating, as do some others I've talked to. Some are just more sensitive to high-pitched noises than others.
> 
> In any case, I might pick up some NB E-loops or Corsair SP120s to find out if they have a less noticeable tonality.


I had (still have in fact) 4 AP 14's and they've been nothing but silent. Especially when they were on my RX 480.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Reaching for the sky....


Christ..that's huge.

Better have at LEAST 12 cores. Build log? On my phone so excuse me if it's in your Sig.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> I had (still have in fact) 4 AP 14's and they've been nothing but silent. Especially when they were on my RX 480.


Yeah, it's strange. Seems like most people can't hear it, but there is definitely a high frequency tone to mine when I don't have the speeds "tuned" correctly. Having said that, I'm also the kind of person who readily notices awkward high-pitched sonic artifacts while listening to music.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You will like the SP120s,I have nothing but praise for them.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will like the SP120s,I have nothing but praise for them.


^ This. My SP120 Performance editions are great. Very quiet when run at ~1100 rpms and they still have a lot of headroom if paired with a fan controller when you need it.


----------



## wermad

One more for sho


----------



## LayerCakes

Look what's up on EK's CC.. interesting.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> One more for sho


Here you go lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> 
> Look what's up on EK's CC.. interesting.


Block makers may get an early sample to start designing a block. Obviously they're still under NDA so not much can be said or shown. its right around the corner so not too long








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Here you go lol


Yes, we are Mountain men and Frozen men. Going to leak test it tonight and if all goes well, I'll be ordering another one


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will like the SP120s,I have nothing but praise for them.


If they have the B Neg stamp of approval, they must be good.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will like the SP120s,I have nothing but praise for them.
> 
> 
> 
> If they have the B Neg stamp of approval, they must be good.
Click to expand...

I've ordered 4 of these and will be adding them to the two that I already own to an XTX360. Do you think I will experience any clearance issues in my 800D mounting up top?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Block makers may get an early sample to start designing a block. Obviously they're still under NDA so not much can be said or shown. its right around the corner so not too long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, we are Mountain men and Frozen men. Going to leak test it tonight and if all goes well, I'll be ordering another one


Make sure u have access to the top cap cause air bubbles get stuck in it and do not come out lol.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I've ordered 4 of these and will be adding them to the two that I already own to an XTX360. Do you think I will experience any clearance issues in my 800D mounting up top?


You should be fine for motherboard clearance. I only have a Swiftech MCR320-XP rad in my 800D right now, which is a mere 34mm thick, but there is still about 40mm of clearance between the fans and the top of the mobo. XTX is 64mm thick, right?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalbard*
> 
> Looks like a turret.


Yeah. It is sort of monolithic.
I had some spare parts for a third pedestal so I took those, and fabbed the rest and stuck 'em on for something to do.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Make sure u have access to the top cap cause air bubbles get stuck in it and do not come out lol.


Yup, I'm pretty familiar with bay reservoirs and they can be a pita to bleed.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I noticed this on the Laing DDC pump product page -
> 
> *Materials in contact with the coolant:*
> Stainless steel 1.4571, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-Rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
> 
> Isn't Aluminium bad to have in contact with the coolant if you have brass, copper etc?


Its a translation problem from the original German. They are describing the materials used to make the bearing points for the impeller. Its actually an Alumina ceramic that the carbon hub of the impeller spins on. Its a composite material of some kind and not raw aluminium or anything bad like that. The D5's use the same material in the same way.

The "hard coal" is the carbon hub


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Reaching for the sky....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa, that's A tall SM8. How tall is it exactly?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Reaching for the sky....


Yes, this:


----------



## G-WizZ

Hi all, built this 6 months ago after looking through hundreds of spectacular systems in this topic to get some ideas


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G-WizZ*
> 
> Hi all, built this 6 months ago after looking through hundreds of spectacular systems in this topic to get some ideas
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wow, super clean. I like how all your components match with the coolant. Well done.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I noticed this on the Laing DDC pump product page -
> 
> *Materials in contact with the coolant:*
> Stainless steel 1.4571, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-Rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
> 
> Isn't Aluminium bad to have in contact with the coolant if you have brass, copper etc?


yes, yes it is.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> wow, super clean. I like how all your components match with the coolant. Well done.


colored tubes. distilled water. look at the rez...
yes, it looks really nice n very clean. i hope to achieve that.


----------



## R3apR369

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G-WizZ*
> 
> Hi all, built this 6 months ago after looking through hundreds of spectacular systems in this topic to get some ideas


Very nice color layout.







Loop is almost exactly like mine.


----------



## 8492

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G-WizZ*
> 
> Hi all, built this 6 months ago after looking through hundreds of spectacular systems in this topic to get some ideas


You did a fantastic job! What case is that?

edit: nevermind, i just noticed the handles on the door, i didn't spot them in the dark. i didn't realize the 650d was that nice lol


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Hey guys heres my new rig wat do you think ?


That is a extremely nice build


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G-WizZ*
> 
> Hi all, built this 6 months ago after looking through hundreds of spectacular systems in this topic to get some ideas
> 
> cut


Awesome, i plan to achieve something like that, with a similar but clearer blue


----------



## Hokies83

Leak testing / air bubble removing "Again"

Takes like 3 days to get all the air out of 900ML of res and 4 Monsta rads lol.

I had it all finished so i thought.... My Atx 24 pin whould not fit with the 400 ML res there...
So i moved it 2 inches forward and had to start all over again.... The Mod right UV reflective braided extensions do not have much bend in them =/


----------



## King4x4

So close!

Finalized the GPUs hokies? Going TiTan or not ? (Might go that route if I can sell my last remining 7950s and the 690 and go for dual TiTans if the benchmarks are are good at 7680x1440)


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> So close!
> 
> Finalized the GPUs hokies? Going TiTan or not ? (Might go that route if I can sell my last remining 7950s and the 690 and go for dual TiTans if the benchmarks are are good at 7680x1440)


THe price does not warrant the performance 2 680s are faster and 2 680s can be had for 200$ cheaper.

Im just going to wait for the next cards to come out.

And i just got my 3 yearold a Xbox 360 Slim 250gb for 175$...

He really wants to play Epic Mickey 2.. and since it is co op i can play with him aswell....

Meaning my PC gaming focus will not be so much due to the single player aspec...

Also i get to catch up in the halo series lol... i snagged halo 3 reach and 4 XD


----------



## dumbazz

Wow What nice builds on this page.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> On the topic of AP-15s, I was initially fairly disappointing with mine because I was able to hear an annoying high-pitched whistling sound whenever they were running. A few conclusions I've drawn since then are that:
> 
> a) They whistle the worst when changing speed, so a set-and-forget fan speed helps a lot.
> b) They seem to develop a harmonic frequency at certain RPMs if they are all on the same rad, even with vibration damping gaskets. For this reason I set mine at 3 different speeds on a 360 rad (1150 rpm, 850, and 1000 rpm for example) and the noise seems to be less pronounced.
> d) A lot of people are completely oblivious to the whistling noise although I find it quite irritating, as do some others I've talked to. Some are just more sensitive to high-pitched noises than others.
> 
> In any case, I might pick up some NB E-loops or Corsair SP120s to find out if they have a less noticeable tonality.


I know this may be difficult to believe but I know why they sometimes have that high pitched whistling noise, it's the three wires vibrating against each other and the slit for which they slide into is like a harmonic ear vibrator that ear doctors use! I had a YouTube video showing this and can't seem to locate it, it was this video that got me all new fans!

Try bending the cables at the fan housing and you'll see what I mean!


----------



## Hokies83

I spent 2/3 of my tax return on this... a thank u to the wife for not going nuts with me spending all this money on PC stuff..


----------



## _REAPER_

I just talked myself into getting another 680 Classified instead of spending 2k on 2 Titans.


----------



## Hokies83

Blah same 45 is leaking again... think i got a bad fitting.. ordered a 3 way Rotary should fix the issue..

16 fittings in the loop same one keeps leaking heh.. a 45 at the bottom of the 400ML res coming down from the last 360 rad into it...


----------



## King4x4

Rotary.... oh god I hate it!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 
> That is a extremely nice build


thanks mate
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G-WizZ*
> 
> Hi all, built this 6 months ago after looking through hundreds of spectacular systems in this topic to get some ideas


nice rig mate looks good


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Rotary.... oh god I hate it!


I have never had a Bitspower triple rotary fail King.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I've ordered 4 of these and will be adding them to the two that I already own to an XTX360. Do you think I will experience any clearance issues in my 800D mounting up top?
> 
> 
> 
> You should be fine for motherboard clearance. I only have a Swiftech MCR320-XP rad in my 800D right now, which is a mere 34mm thick, but there is still about 40mm of clearance between the fans and the top of the mobo. XTX is 64mm thick, right?
Click to expand...

Yes that's correct, it's 64mm thick. Sounds like there won't be a huge amount of space left over but hopefully I'll be okay!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Whoa, that's A tall SM8. How tall is it exactly?


49" including castors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I have never had a Bitspower triple rotary fail King.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've had one Bitspower rotary fail, don't remember if it was a double or a triple. Just little tiny drops seeping from a joint, I finally threw it away.


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> yes, yes it is.


Aluminium Oxide isn't aluminium, I thought aluminium oxide was inert/insoluble/harmless - as usual I'm not sure though.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I have never had a Bitspower triple rotary fail King.


I have only had two Bitspower triple rotaries in my life... and one of them leaked exactly as described in almost the same setup (my res is a 250 but that's the only difference). The other one hasn't leaked (yet) but if it does it can only take out a fan below it since I moved the other one to the bottom inlet on my GPUs so if it gets a leak too it's not over the board at least.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I know this may be difficult to believe but I know why they sometimes have that high pitched whistling noise, it's the three wires vibrating against each other and the slit for which they slide into is like a harmonic ear vibrator that ear doctors use! I had a YouTube video showing this and can't seem to locate it, it was this video that got me all new fans!
> 
> Try bending the cables at the fan housing and you'll see what I mean!


Wow, never would have thought of that! I'll give it a try this evening. Thanks.


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darren9*
> 
> Aluminium Oxide isn't aluminium, I thought aluminium oxide was inert/insoluble/harmless - as usual I'm not sure though.


Aluminium oxide is very inert. Used in framing for windows and doors. Harmless in contact with fresh water.

On topic. Have 2 triple rotary fittings, yet to fail.


----------



## tiborrr12

EK-FCQK5000:
http://www.ekwb.com/news/315/19/World-s-first-water-cooling-solution-for-NVIDIA-Quadro-K5000/


----------



## kkorky

Nearly finished my wife's rig........

45 degree needed from Reservoir to GPU, then shorten and route tubing behind the GPU cables, cables need sleeving,CPU to Radiator tube will be shortened & LED strip re positioned.

*HAF 922*


----------



## nycste

Heya I have two questions.

1. My buddy wants to waterblock his evga gtx 680 stock card and

2. I wanna get a block on my evga gtx 670ftw. According to guy I spoke with at evga he said my card was adjusted and wouldn't fit the original 680waterblocks they sell. Is he correct is there any way to tell for sure what will fit?

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated I also asked the question in the gtx 670 thread with no response...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1255980/official-nvidia-gtx-670-owners-club/2200_100#post_19326385
Thx


----------



## audioholic

I got the XSPC v2 680 block for my 670 FTW ....hope it works!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nearly finished my wife's rig........
> 
> 45 degree needed from Reservoir to GPU, then shorten and route tubing behind the GPU cables, cables need sleeving,CPU to Radiator tube will be shortened & LED strip re positioned.
> 
> *HAF 922*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I think it would look a lot better w/o the LEDs.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it would look a lot better w/o the LEDs.


I think I agree with this one.


----------



## fa5terba11

It has been a long time coming, but I have finally completed my build log. I'm in law school right now so I haven't had any time to finish this, but it is done.... for now! Here is the link. Please check it out.

[Build Log] Frost Phoenix (NZXT Switch 810)(Ivy Bridge 3570k)(XSPC EX Radiators)(Water-Cooled)


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nearly finished my wife's rig........
> 
> 45 degree needed from Reservoir to GPU, then shorten and route tubing behind the GPU cables, cables need sleeving,CPU to Radiator tube will be shortened & LED strip re positioned.
> 
> *HAF 922*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In my opinion, the tubes are fine as they are now and i find them quite beautiful as is. while shortening the tube from res to GPU might look neater it could change the look a bit (to a different direction)
i also don't find the CPU to rad tube that terrible that it needs a shortening, but i could see why you think it would look better if it is shortened. (a cool idea would be to use a 90 on the CPU block which some do and make a good looking effect, though a 45 would still be great too)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it would look a lot better w/o the LEDs.


+1


----------



## pledgy

Final set more or less complete!


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nearly finished my wife's rig........
> 
> 45 degree needed from Reservoir to GPU, then shorten and route tubing behind the GPU cables, cables need sleeving,CPU to Radiator tube will be shortened & LED strip re positioned.
> 
> *HAF 922*


Damn that is sexy.

What coolant / dye is that ?


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Heya I have two questions.
> 
> 1. My buddy wants to waterblock his evga gtx 680 stock card and
> 
> 2. I wanna get a block on my evga gtx 670ftw. According to guy I spoke with at evga he said my card was adjusted and wouldn't fit the original 680waterblocks they sell. Is he correct is there any way to tell for sure what will fit?
> 
> Any recommendations are greatly appreciated I also asked the question in the gtx 670 thread with no response...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1255980/official-nvidia-gtx-670-owners-club/2200_100#post_19326385
> Thx


I have Heatkiller 680 Lt blocks and backplate on my gtx 670ftw bought the card right before christmas.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Damn that is sexy.
> 
> What coolant / dye is that ?


Looks like Mayhems Pastel.


----------



## OccultAssassin

And so it starts....



Can't wait to get my second Heatkiller GPU block from backorder. Still waiting on the durelene to run a flush of the new rads with some distilled.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

How does one, clean out a rad (Brand spanking new) before use? I've got the basic house keeping stuff.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Heya I have two questions.
> 
> 1. My buddy wants to waterblock his evga gtx 680 stock card and
> 
> 2. I wanna get a block on my evga gtx 670ftw. According to guy I spoke with at evga he said my card was adjusted and wouldn't fit the original 680waterblocks they sell. Is he correct is there any way to tell for sure what will fit?
> 
> Any recommendations are greatly appreciated I also asked the question in the gtx 670 thread with no response...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1255980/official-nvidia-gtx-670-owners-club/2200_100#post_19326385
> Thx


If you take a picture of your 670's PCB, I could confirm whether or not it would fit. But it shouldn't matter since the 670 FTW uses a 680 reference PCB. I don't think the recent changes made to the PCB affected their compatibility with waterblocks...


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> How does one, clean out a rad (Brand spanking new) before use? I've got the basic house keeping stuff.


Put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty. Run hot tap water through it for a bit. Put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> How does one, clean out a rad (Brand spanking new) before use? I've got the basic house keeping stuff.


Clean out any residues from the manufacturing process like flux resins, oils, ect.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Clean out any residues from the manufacturing process like flux resins, oils, ect.


I know that it removes the bad stuff from the production line. But my question was: How do i do it?.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> How does one, clean out a rad (Brand spanking new) before use? I've got the basic house keeping stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty. Run hot tap water through it for a bit. Put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty.
Click to expand...

OR Go to an auto parts store and ask for Wix 33003 or Napa 3003 fuel filter and get some distilled water. Run 3/8" tubing and presto you have a filtered loop ready to so self clean. Plush allows you to leak check you blocks/rads without hooking them up to your computer.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> OR Go to an auto parts store and ask for Wix 33003 or Napa 3003
> fuel filter and get some distilled water. Run 3/8" tubing and presto you have a filtered loop ready to so self clean. Plush allows you to leak check you blocks/rads without hooking them up to your computer.


I should have said that i live in Denmark, and therefor got no idea what those things are


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty. Run hot tap water through it for a bit. Put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty.


Now that's an easy to follow guide.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty. Run hot tap water through it for a bit. Put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty.


But how much vinegar? Sso itss full? (Keep it in metric measurements please. I live in Denmark, and do not know what a gallon, inch etc is)


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pledgy*
> 
> Final set more or less complete!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it! What radiator is that and fans?


----------



## kj1060

Some early "final" pictures of my rig. Basically done with it other than adding a couple more 7970 when the price is right. I will hopefully get some better pictures this weekend.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nearly finished my wife's rig........
> 
> 45 degree needed from Reservoir to GPU, then shorten and route tubing behind the GPU cables, cables need sleeving,CPU to Radiator tube will be shortened & LED strip re positioned.
> 
> *HAF 922*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think it looks good as is. I prefer a little curve in the tubes. But that's just me. Looks good either way.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-FCQK5000:
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/315/19/World-s-first-water-cooling-solution-for-NVIDIA-Quadro-K5000/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Keep it up EK_tiborrr, I'm drooping over your new water block designs and have been voting on all of your ideas for new products! I encourage other's to do the same!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty, put vinegar in, shake, empty. Run hot tap water through it for a bit. Put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty, put distilled water in, shake, empty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> I know that it removes the bad stuff from the production line. But my question was: How do i do it?.


Wondering why you need so much pumping power? Filter assembly adds major restriction!! It's easier if you have the following along with six gallons of distilled water and one gallon of white distilled vinegar!

1. GE Household Water Filtration System = $40
2. Total Pond Fountain Pump 350-500 GPM = $55
3. Watts Vinyl Tubing 1/2" ID SVKI20
4. Watts Nylon Hose Barb 1/2" Adapter A-387 into filter assembly
5. Watts Nylon Hose Barb 1/2" Adapter A-388 into pump


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it would look a lot better w/o the LEDs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I think I agree with this one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> In my opinion, the tubes are fine as they are now and i find them quite beautiful as is. while shortening the tube from res to GPU might look neater it could change the look a bit (to a different direction)
> i also don't find the CPU to rad tube that terrible that it needs a shortening, but i could see why you think it would look better if it is shortened. (a cool idea would be to use a 90 on the CPU block which some do and make a good looking effect, though a 45 would still be great too)
> +1


1) The led strip isnt visible when the side panel is on-i have a CM Storm Sniper Side Panel with a large plexiglass window-but tbh, your comments arent incorrect, possibly a NZXT white light strip would be more suitable/subtle?

2)@RKTGX95-yes your idea on changing the top fitting on the CPU block is something that i'm thinking about very seriously.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Damn that is sexy.
> 
> What coolant / dye is that ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Looks like Mayhems Pastel.


It's 750 ml Mayhems UV white pastel + 6 drops of Mayhem's blue dye.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I think it looks good as is. I prefer a little curve in the tubes. But that's just me. Looks good either way.


Thank you for your comment









I wil post pictures when it is finished-then i can start work on my new rig which ive had on the drawing board for a while.
If time permits i shall also do a build log for the new rig.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> But how much vinegar? Sso itss full? (Keep it in metric measurements please. I live in Denmark, and do not know what a gallon, inch etc is)


*No vinegar,* or if you do, 1:10 vinegar-distilled water ratio so you don't corrode your rad; Juggalo states 1:4 in one of his videos but that's still too concentrated. But yes, until it's full, which can be quite a bit depending on the size of your rad (up to a few litres, I think). I've heard Simple Green works, too, but haven't seen it used and it may not be available in Denmark. Alternatively, if you're just after clearing out flux, fill it totally with 91% alcohol (not 70%) and leave it for 12-24 hours, then drain half of it, swish around the remaining half, drain, then flush with distilled, drain again, and it should be ready to use.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Nearly finished my wife's rig........
> 
> 45 degree needed from Reservoir to GPU, then shorten and route tubing behind the GPU cables, cables need sleeving,CPU to Radiator tube will be shortened & LED strip re positioned.
> 
> *HAF 922*


You sir are a lucky man.. I bet you have no issues when you want to do upgrades...


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Keep it up EK_tiborrr, I'm drooping over your new water block designs and have been voting on all of your ideas for new products! I encourage other's to do the same!
> 
> Wondering why you need so much pumping power? Filter assembly adds major restriction!! It's easier if you have the following along with *six gallons of distilled water and one gallon of white distilled vinegar!*
> 
> 1. GE Household Water Filtration System = $40
> 2. Total Pond Fountain Pump 350-500 GPM = $55
> 3. Watts Vinyl Tubing 1/2" ID SVKI20
> 4. Watts Nylon Hose Barb 1/2" Adapter A-387 into filter assembly
> 5. Watts Nylon Hose Barb 1/2" Adapter A-388 into pump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a whole lotta douching


----------



## GTX 690 SLI

This is my setup,finished uff!!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTX 690 SLI*
> 
> This is my setup,finished uff!!


Nice GTX








Do you have a pair of 240's below as well?


----------



## GTX 690 SLI

2x80mm rads


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> *No vinegar,* or if you do, 1:10 vinegar-distilled water ratio so you don't corrode your rad; Juggalo states 1:4 in one of his videos but that's still too concentrated. But yes, until it's full, which can be quite a bit depending on the size of your rad (up to a few litres, I think). I've heard Simple Green works, too, but haven't seen it used and it may not be available in Denmark. Alternatively, if you're just after clearing out flux, fill it totally with 91% alcohol (not 70%) and leave it for 12-24 hours, then drain half of it, swish around the remaining half, drain, then flush with distilled, drain again, and it should be ready to use.


Its a 360 & 120 rad.
So. Connect pump. Some tubing (got 2m spare).
Fill res with distilled water. (1 part vinegar. 9 parts distilled water(?)). (Got 2 of those flow filters) let it run for 30 min without going dry. Empty the system.
Now. Fill the res with distilled water only. Remove 1 tube from the res, and place in bucket.
Keep on adding water for 1 min with pump running?
And then make leak test with final items?


----------



## tiborrr12

More: http://www.ekwb.com/news/316/19/EK-first-with-GeForce-GTX-Titan-Full-Cover-water-block/


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Edit; interrupted by that new EK block... see, that wasn't so hard to do it without the stupid circles again, was it?







Looks great, now if only the plating prep could be sorted out it'd be perfect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Its a 360 & 120 rad.
> So. Connect pump. Some tubing (got 2m spare).
> Fill res with distilled water. (1 part vinegar. 9 parts distilled water(?)). (Got 2 of those flow filters) let it run for 30 min without going dry. Empty the system.
> Now. Fill the res with distilled water only. Remove 1 tube from the res, and place in bucket.
> Keep on adding water for 1 min with pump running?
> And then make leak test with final items?


If you have a funnel you're better off filling the rads manually so you don't need to mess with connecting/disconnecting anything; but yes, 1 part vinegar to 9 parts distilled works. Fill the rads with that solution and let them sit for a while, maybe 6-12 hours, then follow the rest of what I laid out with the alcohol (which you should use instead if you can get it, but the diluted vinegar also works).


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Edit; interrupted by that new EK block... see, that wasn't so hard to do it without the stupid circles again, was it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great, now if only the plating prep could be sorted out it'd be perfect.
> If you have a funnel you're better off filling the rads manually so you don't need to mess with connecting/disconnecting anything; but yes, 1 part vinegar to 9 parts distilled works. Fill the rads with that solution and let them sit for a while, maybe 6-12 hours, then follow the rest of what I laid out with the alcohol (which you should use instead if you can get it, but the diluted vinegar also works).


I got no acces to the alcohol. Sooo. Whatcha suggest?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

I already laid out what to do with the diluted vinegar, so just go with that.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> You sir are a lucky man.. I bet you have no issues when you want to do upgrades...


When i have to order something my girl tries to be comprensive and interested, but i know she thinks i'm just wasting money and doesn't give a ****.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> I already laid out what to do with the diluted vinegar, so just go with that.


I got no idea what that is


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> Heya I have two questions.
> 
> 1. My buddy wants to waterblock his evga gtx 680 stock card and
> 
> 2. I wanna get a block on my evga gtx 670ftw. According to guy I spoke with at evga he said my card was adjusted and wouldn't fit the original 680waterblocks they sell. Is he correct is there any way to tell for sure what will fit?
> 
> Any recommendations are greatly appreciated I also asked the question in the gtx 670 thread with no response...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1255980/official-nvidia-gtx-670-owners-club/2200_100#post_19326385
> Thx


yes it sould work with a GTX 680 water block look at this ek cooling configurator this will help you

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> But how much vinegar? Sso itss full? (Keep it in metric measurements please. I live in Denmark, and do not know what a gallon, inch etc is)
> 
> 
> 
> *No vinegar,* or if you do, 1:10 vinegar-distilled water ratio so you don't corrode your rad; Juggalo states 1:4 in one of his videos but that's still too concentrated. But yes, until it's full, which can be quite a bit depending on the size of your rad (up to a few litres, I think). I've heard Simple Green works, too, but haven't seen it used and it may not be available in Denmark. Alternatively, if you're just after clearing out flux, fill it totally with 91% alcohol (not 70%) and leave it for 12-24 hours, then drain half of it, swish around the remaining half, drain, then flush with distilled, drain again, and it should be ready to use.
Click to expand...

This,although i just half fill with boiling distilled and shake with welder gloves.

No Acids or Alcohols (both can damage the paint finish and acids attack solder joints) should need to be used,the flux is water soluble normally.

The days of TA rads and great gobs of flux are over,most rads are very clean nowadays.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> I got no idea what that is


The 1:9 vinegar/distilled mix that you asked about.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This,although i just half fill with boiling distilled and shake with welder gloves.
> 
> No Acids or Alcohols should need to be used,the flux is water soluble normally.


Right, forgot about that, though if the water doesn't get rid of it then 91% alcohol is preferred. If you're using Thermochill rads, you'll need it anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Alternatively,buy some sysclean.


You mean the stuff that has some amount of bleach in it, and this in the MSDS?







Quote:


> Contact with metals such as aluminum, magnesium, *tin,* and zinc cause formation of flammable hydrogen gas.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> I got no idea what that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1:9 vinegar/distilled mix that you asked about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This,although i just half fill with boiling distilled and shake with welder gloves.
> 
> No Acids or Alcohols should need to be used,the flux is water soluble normally.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Right, forgot about that, though if the water doesn't get rid of it then 91% alcohol is preferred. If you're using Thermochill rads, you'll need it anyway.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Alternatively,buy some sysclean.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *You mean the stuff that has some amount of bleach in it, and this in the MSDS?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Contact with metals such as aluminum, magnesium, *tin,* and zinc cause formation of flammable hydrogen gas.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Yeah,I just realized that as i posted it,that stuff is quite nasty too,thats why i removed it.

Strange how Primoshill recommend it for plasticizer issues.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Heh, figured. Anyone using pre-TA Thermochills is gonna want 91% alcohol unless they get the rad(s) second hand and pre-cleaned.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Heh, figured. Anyone using pre-TA Thermochills is gonna want 91% alcohol unless they get the rad(s) second hand and pre-cleaned.


This is correct,PA rads are/were caked in it...my PA 360 took an incredible amount of flushing.

PA Rads are not around now,most modern rads are very clean in comparison.


----------



## Fonne

You are really starting to make some amazing looking blocks again EK


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> You are really starting to make some amazing looking blocks again EK


Am I the only one that thinks the design of the block doesn't really matter? Esp because you can never see it in your rig anyway...In that sense I always look for the side view of the block when deciding which one I want. That was why I got the XSPC 690 block when I had my loop running. That said, I like the simplicity of this block, but I wonder what those two silver strips on either side of the GPU micro tunnels are.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Am I the only one that thinks the design of the block doesn't really matter? Esp because you can never see it in your rig anyway...In that sense I always look for the side view of the block when deciding which one I want. That was why I got the XSPC 690 block when I had my loop running. That said, I like the simplicity of this block, but I wonder what those two silver strips on either side of the GPU micro tunnels are.


Unless you are using any of silverstone tj series case or reverse atx case where having such ek titan block would really show it off especially with mayhem pastel


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Unless you are using any of silverstone tj series case or reverse atx case where having such ek titan block would really show it off especially with mayhem pastel


This is very true, if you're using a reverse ATX mobo then yeah all of a sudden your block design makes a much bigger difference. But that's a minority of cases arguably. Regardless with pastel it would look really slick.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> That's a whole lotta douching


Laughing!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> *No vinegar,* or if you do, 1:10 vinegar-distilled water ratio so you don't corrode your rad; Juggalo states 1:4 in one of his videos but that's still too concentrated. But yes, until it's full, which can be quite a bit depending on the size of your rad (up to a few litres, I think). I've heard Simple Green works, too, but haven't seen it used and it may not be available in Denmark. Alternatively, if you're just after clearing out flux, fill it totally with 91% alcohol (not 70%) and leave it for 12-24 hours, then drain half of it, swish around the remaining half, drain, then flush with distilled, drain again, and it should be ready to use.


I'm glad I saw your post *Chunky_Chimp*, I was about to use a 1:4 water/vinegar on two SR-1 560 radiators! I would have been pissed watching the paint come off my beautiful radiators!! It's not my first time rinsing a Hardware Labs radiators, but from experience they are by far the cleanest and highest quality radiators around! Looks like I'll just use the Sysprep after running boiling hot water through them, I got two bottles along with some red liquorice.


----------



## khemist

Added some leds.


----------



## tiborrr12

Boiling distilled water will do the trick, don't mess around with vinegar. Fill the rad half, close it with lids, shake it violently. Repeat 10 times then rinse with boiling distilled and you're done. The flux used in radiator manufacturing is water soluble therefore enough water will clean it thoroughly.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Added some leds.


That is nice! 3mm or 4mm LED's? I might do the same when I get my block installed.


----------



## phillyd

Where do you guys get your duralene?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Where do you guys get your duralene?


Sidewinders

Just ordered 20 feet of this myself.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That is nice! 3mm or 4mm LED's? I might do the same when I get my block installed.


5mm.


----------



## pledgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> I like it! What radiator is that and fans?


Its a Phobya 1080 rad and Phobya 200mm fans.
currently overclocked to 4.625GHz stable and 1575 MHz stable
CPU: i7 3820
GPU: MSI radeon 7970

I have reached 5.2 on the cpu, however it can be a little sketchy at times.
not great for 24/7 use.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Am I the only one that thinks the design of the block doesn't really matter? Esp because you can never see it in your rig anyway...In that sense I always look for the side view of the block when deciding which one I want. That was why I got the XSPC 690 block when I had my loop running. That said, I like the simplicity of this block, but I wonder what those two silver strips on either side of the GPU micro tunnels are.


You're not the only one - although there are numerous rigs where they are definitely visible - and in this case if you use LEDs and colored coolant then it could be very nice even if all you can see is the upper edge most of the time.

I think what you are referring to as 'silver strips' is simply the reflection of the light off the bevels in the top of the block for forcing the water through the micro channels - the block directly over it is flush with the top (so all the water goes through) but in the rest of the block the top appears to be more carved out.


----------



## Deornoth

Stage one is complete! I'll be doing more to the system once I can get it designed and figure out funding. For now the goal was to make the modding fit in with the stock theme and looks of the case.

Sorry for the crap pictures, this is the only camera I have











*Build Log*


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> They dont have the size i need... maybe if i were to cut the large one... hm
> good news and bad news
> 
> good
> the shipping is less than the unit itself
> 
> bad
> thats cause the unit is more expensive there
> 
> =/
> Thanks though guys.


The XSPC D5 RX 360 kit is about 382€ in here, where as it is $350 in the US. Just frustrating. This is why I will most likely not get into WCing.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> The XSPC D5 RX 360 kit is about 382€ in here, where as it is $350 in the US. Just frustrating. This is why I will most likely not get into WCing.


Why dont you check out the ocn market place, there are plenty of used wc'ing gear for sale in europe, idk how much cross country shipping over there would be though!


----------



## Wizid

Well got it done.


----------



## Wizid

After filling up that new pump it just pissed inside my new case. That was the first one. The second one came with a missing part/screw. Impossible to find so I made one. It is on the left side of the pump/top. Please notice the disk I have under my computer. It makes spinning around easy. Just a couple of fingers and gentle pressure. I got it from my wife,s doctor when I use to need to lift her out of her wheel chair into bed. It is a disk that you place one foot one so you can swivel with out twisting your back. Wow this made it so much easier. You can find it here. http://www.healthpro...urn-device.html
I will try and get the parts listed ASAP


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wizid*
> 
> Well got it done.
> -snip-


That's an RX360? You couldn't fit it inside of the case? I was able to get my RX360 with fans pushing inside of my Switch 810...thought the inside of the 820 was just about the same.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Boiling distilled water will do the trick, don't mess around with vinegar. Fill the rad half, close it with lids, shake it violently. Repeat 10 times then rinse with boiling distilled and you're done. The flux used in radiator manufacturing is water soluble therefore enough water will clean it thoroughly.


Exactly this.


----------



## Yukss

new pics







(not as good as your kickass rigs but is what i have)


----------



## minicooper1

some rehearsal


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That is nice! 3mm or 4mm LED's? I might do the same when I get my block installed.


its 3mm i am 100% sure


----------



## khemist

New tubing and liquid, tygon E1000 and Mayhems pastel White.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I love it when a plan comes together!! Ba Bum Ba Baaaa... Bum Bum Baaaaaa!!!

I whipped these up in Adobe Illustrator today for my Merlin SM8 Rig. Build log coming soon.


----------



## King4x4

For my previous question about MSI 680 4gb Twin Forzr PCB... Just finished removing the cover (Card arrived yesterday)



Reference board except for the non-stacked power connections.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pledgy*
> 
> Its a Phobya 1080 rad and Phobya 200mm fans.
> currently overclocked to 4.625GHz stable and 1575 MHz stable
> CPU: i7 3820
> GPU: MSI radeon 7970
> 
> I have reached 5.2 on the cpu, however it can be a little sketchy at times.
> not great for 24/7 use.


I almost chose that rad when looking for an external, though I went with watercool (perfect use for all those spare 120mm fans







). Nice clock on the 3820, I'd so love to overclock that CPU someday!


----------



## nleksan

I wish I knew about the "no vinegar" rule before flushing my rads :S I used around 8-10:1 boiling water:vinegar to flush my Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240 and XSPC EX420, although I only did 1 round with Vinegar (filled fully, let set for ~15-20min til started to cool, shook it, drained some out, really shook it, emptied), so hopefully no damage was done!

Has anyone had a go with the new Phobya G-Changer 1080 rad? It really looks quite awesome, and with the new Silverstone AP183's (6.7mmH2O @ full speed, I believe), it would seem like it would have some serious cooling potential... I have been looking at external rads as of late, thinking of having one set up in a separate room (sharing a wall), using two outlet covers designed for audio equipment cables and mounting some quick-disconnects "in" the wall so that the rad and PC can both be completely detached from the wall and then connected together elsewhere... I was considering the Dwood pedestal, and still am, but the idea of a single 9x120mm radiator that is 60mm thick and can be remotely located with fans as powerful as I'd like is quite a tempting proposition!

Now, I realize with my current setup, any more rad is quite likely to be significant overkill, but not only do I LIKE overkill (muahahaha), I will be adding a few more components to the loop in the very near future, specifically:
- 2nd GTX670 FTW with another Heatkiller GPUx3 680 "Hole Edition" Block and Backplate (run it with the first in "serial")
- RIVE MoBo Block(s) (specifically: if I can get my hands on a MIPS RIVE Block Kit!!! I have been waiting semi-patiently for a while, and I would be none-too-happy if I were to buy the EK only for the MIPS to pop up the next day!!)
- Possibly a Universal GPU Block (considering getting a GTX550Ti/650Ti for PhysX usage and to run as a dedicated [email protected] card when not PhysX-ing, and don't know of any full-coverage blocks that would fit any cards that would actually be feasible for PhysX)
- Possibly Universal RAM Blocks (uncertain; I like the way they'd look with the MB Block and CPU Block, and with 2x MCP35X pumps I have more than enough excess pumping power; I just don't know....at the bottom of my "parts for PC" list anyway)

Anyway, I'd love to heard any thoughts and input on the new Phobya Rad!


----------



## Neo Zuko

I just ordered the MIPS R4E Copper Pom Waterblock for my RIVE, coming from Germany to the USA for $160 delivered in 3 weeks:



Anyway, what is this about flushing rads before use, what is the right way? I would only use plain water. And how do you flush? with the MCP35X2 Pump? What temp? Any additives?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Tiborr, are you guys going to produce any circle-less 680/7970 blocks like that Titan block anytime soon? Would love to know!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Tiborr, are you guys going to produce any circle-less 680/7970 blocks like that Titan block anytime soon? Would love to know!


Me too! Except I just bought Koolance 7970 blocks









Jeffinslaw


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> You sir are a lucky man.. I bet you have no issues when you want to do upgrades...


I learned a long time ago, that if you dont want to get grief about your hobby, try to involve your 'better half' in some way-not so that they pester you non stop, but enough so that they cannot complain when you spend money on upgrades etc.









She has her silent rig-and once its done it's hers to as she pleases-i am then free to pursue my interests.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I wish I knew about the "no vinegar" rule before flushing my rads :S I used around 8-10:1 boiling water:vinegar to flush my Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240 and XSPC EX420, although I only did 1 round with Vinegar (filled fully, let set for ~15-20min til started to cool, shook it, drained some out, really shook it, emptied), so hopefully no damage was done!


Believe me, you didn't hurt anything.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i love this thread. i felt i had no need to ask questions myself. everything i could(should) have asked was previously answered. although i am quite sure i will have some very soon.
this thread is epic win.


----------



## MarkV1184

My first WC loop is done!


----------



## nycste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> I have Heatkiller 680 Lt blocks and backplate on my gtx 670ftw bought the card right before christmas.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> If you take a picture of your 670's PCB, I could confirm whether or not it would fit. But it shouldn't matter since the 670 FTW uses a 680 reference PCB. I don't think the recent changes made to the PCB affected their compatibility with waterblocks...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> yes it sould work with a GTX 680 water block look at this ek cooling configurator this will help you
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist


thanks ill check it out and report back soon


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarkV1184*
> 
> My first WC loop is done!


This is amazing!
one question, how can you fit push/pull with xtx rad and max V?
I've been trying to do so but unable to get it fit right, though I've already put the vram block for my maximus V


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's an RX360? You couldn't fit it inside of the case? I was able to get my RX360 with fans pushing inside of my Switch 810...thought the inside of the 820 was just about the same.


It is a rx360 ..and noep aint fitting.....dammit


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> thanks ill check it out and report back soon


I have a VERY WEIRD card (EVGA 670 FTW), with an extremely odd PCB layout...and the Watercool HeatKiller GPUx3 680 Hole Edition block and backplate fit perfectly...


----------



## MarkV1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> This is amazing!
> one question, how can you fit push/pull with xtx rad and max V?
> I've been trying to do so but unable to get it fit right, though I've already put the vram block for my maximus V


It's a really tight fit. There is about 1.5mm of clearance between the mosfet tubing and the fans on the 360 rad. The fans are basically covering the top 4 cm of the mobo, including the 8 pin (i think its 8 pins) power and the EATX power. I don't have the EATX power plugged in, and the standard 8 pin is using a sleeved extension that has about 1 mm of clearance from the fan.

It took a lot of patience, wedging, and position holding from my wife


----------



## MCCSolutions

Some pics of the sketch im working on, Im thinking im gonna have the two rads at the top at an angle with either the fans on the inside of mounted on the outside of the rads........ I guess it depends on how it looks when I go to do it, gonna make side pieces cut to meet the edges of the case and RADs for extra support and a nice glow fromva UV Cathode to lite the tubes up!
























PLEASE TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK, I AM OPEN FOR IDEAS AND SUGGESTIONS......


----------



## MCCSolutions

I link to my build is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1359879/fatal-by-mccsolutions-fx-8350-tripple-6970s-32gb-1866-full-parallel-water-cooled/70#post_19352510


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> its 3mm i am 100% sure


It's Twin 5mm LEDS i'm using for sure, from XSPC.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Some pics of the sketch im working on, Im thinking im gonna have the two rads at the top at an angle with either the fans on the inside of mounted on the outside of the rads........ I guess it depends on how it looks when I go to do it, gonna make side pieces cut to meet the edges of the case and RADs for extra support and a nice glow fromva UV Cathode to lite the tubes up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PLEASE TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK, I AM OPEN FOR IDEAS AND SUGGESTIONS......


i would find a much nicer way to put those rads somewhere. kinda looks silly. How exactly would you mount them like that?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> i would find a much nicer way to put those rads somewhere. kinda looks silly. How exactly would you mount them like that?


I would have to agree with the above statement


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> i would find a much nicer way to put those rads somewhere. kinda looks silly. How exactly would you mount them like that?


Its just an idea and its not as complicated as it seems, Im trying to be original. Thinking outside of the box... Literally lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> thanks ill check it out and report back soon
> 
> 
> 
> I have a *VERY WEIRD card (EVGA 670 FTW), with an extremely odd PCB layout*...and the Watercool HeatKiller GPUx3 680 Hole Edition block and backplate fit perfectly...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
Click to expand...

Its a ref 680 board,whats weird or odd about that? I have the same cards,one of them is a 'improved version too with less caps and the VRM section is cleaned up.


----------



## Idef1x

I would put those radiators on a stand outside of the case, or keep them in the case - not mount them onto the case in some odd way.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> I would put those radiators on a stand outside of the case, or keep them in the case - not mount them onto the case in some odd way.


Whats the Fun in that lol?!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Whats the Fun in that lol?!


It does not look like something out of mad max... but hey to each his or her own. Get in where you fit in


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Its just an idea and its not as complicated as it seems, Im trying to be original. Thinking outside of the box... Literally lol


I'm just unsure as to why you would mount them at an angle like that. Why not just build some sort of pedestal to go either on top of or under the case. I think it would look a lot nicer, plus it would give the radiators some protection from any kind of accidental damage


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Boiling distilled water will do the trick, don't mess around with vinegar. Fill the rad half, close it with lids, shake it violently. Repeat 10 times then rinse with boiling distilled and you're done. The flux used in radiator manufacturing is water soluble therefore enough water will clean it thoroughly.


Instead of shaking it violently wouldn't my pond pump and water filter assembly with boiled distilled water be enough to clean my rads? I would let it run for an hour or so.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Instead of shaking it violently wouldn't my pond pump and water filter assembly with boiled distilled water be enough to clean my rads? I would let it run for an hour or so.


Sure, why not?
I wouldn't try to overthink it, all you want to do is get the flux and any debris that might have been left over from manufacturing. Although I could see shaking as a way to "dislodge" any debris that may be stuck in one of the tubes.
The only radiators I've had with a bit of crud other than flux were one of my XSPC rads. My Alphacools were pretty clean overall.

The water cooling "old timers" say that wasn't always the case, but most rads seem to be fairly clean these days.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a ref 680 board,whats weird or odd about that? I have the same cards,one of them is a 'improved version too with less caps and the VRM section is cleaned up.


Count the number of caps on my card again, and look at their placement...

Here are the two versions I have seen everywhere, the "original" on top and the "new and improved" on the bottom (borrowing the pic from the thread in which it was originally posted):


And then here's mine:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It looks like yours was the half way point between the old and the new...you are right indeed,it does have a slight difference in the cap layout..


----------



## LuckyNumber13

i need a good Non-Electrical conducting TIM.
for my block on my z77 chipset can anyone suggest one?
i'm thinking of going with Arctic MX4.


----------



## driftingforlife

MX4


----------



## nycste

Alright sounds good just hope my card fits a 680 because my buddy and i will most likely order the same cards...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycste*
> 
> thanks ill check it out and report back soon
> 
> 
> 
> I have a VERY WEIRD card (EVGA 670 FTW), with an extremely odd PCB layout...and the Watercool HeatKiller GPUx3 680 Hole Edition block and backplate fit perfectly...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

The AMD 7970 HK's are pretty too







( my backplates are on backorder)


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> It's Twin 5mm LEDS i'm using for sure, from XSPC.


haha, thanks man! Looks good.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Some pics of the sketch im working on, Im thinking im gonna have the two rads at the top at an angle with either the fans on the inside of mounted on the outside of the rads........ I guess it depends on how it looks when I go to do it, gonna make side pieces cut to meet the edges of the case and RADs for extra support and a nice glow fromva UV Cathode to lite the tubes up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PLEASE TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK, I AM OPEN FOR IDEAS AND SUGGESTIONS......


instead of going that route why not grab the
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18382/ex-rad-484/Phobya_G-Changer_XTREME_Nova_1080_Full_Copper_Radiator_-_60mm.html?tl=g30c95s667

Or the

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12293/ex-rad-196/Watercool_MO-RA3_9_x_120mm_PRO_Extreme_Radiator_-_Black_Powder_Coat_22020.html?tl=g30c95s667

just to keep it a bit simpler? I am having wonderful temps with the Mo-ra3, it will probably be the last rad I ever buy!


----------



## Fieel




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The AMD 7970 HK's are pretty too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( my backplates are on backorder)


So much pr0n


----------



## Neo Zuko

Edit


----------



## freitz

SM8 Im assuming but I would think you wouldn't want it to be so top heavy?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## morencyam

All these new swiftech products are rally growing on me. I like that AIO unit a lot. If I'm ever in the market for one that might be the direction I go. I haven't looked into too much. Are the hoses detachable or are they permanently attached like the Corsair units?


----------



## khemist

Just need to get some light on the GPU now, then pretty much done messing around ... for now.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> All these new swiftech products are rally growing on me. I like that AIO unit a lot. If I'm ever in the market for one that might be the direction I go. I haven't looked into too much. Are the hoses detachable or are they permanently attached like the Corsair units?


Fully customizable. The pump is capable of running another 2 x blocks with another rad.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I really want to go with a white color scheme next but there's no way I'll ever be able to run white after 8 months of running pastel red.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Fully customizable. The pump is capable of running another 2 x blocks with another rad.


Oh... very nice...








Is this out and for sale somewhere else in the world?
I'm still seeing "Out of Stock" on FrozenCPU and even on Swiftech's site...

Thanks -


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> It's Twin 5mm LEDS i'm using for sure, from XSPC.


then there is different versions of the supreme hf i have one with 3mm led


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Fully customizable. The pump is capable of running another 2 x blocks with another rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh... very nice...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this out and for sale somewhere else in the world?
> I'm still seeing "Out of Stock" on FrozenCPU and even on Swiftech's site...
> 
> Thanks -
Click to expand...

unreleased iirc. i think it comes out in march


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> then there is different versions of the supreme hf i have one with 3mm led


Mine also uses 3 mm leds


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> then there is different versions of the supreme hf i have one with 3mm led


I'm pretty sure my Supreme HF takes 3mm led's too...


----------



## Qcgold

http://www.overclock.net/t/1339655/build-log-project-qcgold2


----------



## Fonne

Is there any place in EU that sells Norprene tubing ? - Really need to get some new tubing, and want to make sure its great (Price is not important, the loop is pretty small)


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> SM8 Im assuming but I would think you wouldn't want it to be so top heavy?


Correct, SM8 plus pedestal. The U chimney 3 rad design seems more elegant to me, keeps my rads together for short tubing runs. As long as it is not too heavy I dig it. Heat rises, it helps with positive pressure in both compartments, and I would like to install a touch screen in the top "eye" so to speak. And it's different.


----------



## jjpctech

My new Rig:


----------



## dmanstasiu

wow that's messy. What's the pump sitting on ?


----------



## audioholic




----------



## audioholic




----------



## lowbudgethooker

My take on the Bitfenix Prodigy


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to get some light on the GPU now, then pretty much done messing around ... for now.


Another clean RV02 build. Really nice job man!


----------



## friskiest

Hello ladies and gents,

This is my first time water cooling, so I hope you all approve!

I'm still not happy with cable management yet, so there's still a bit of tweaking work to do.

Please let me know what you all think


----------



## skyhigh2004

That is just gorgeous man. Nice work


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any place in EU that sells Norprene tubing ? - Really need to get some new tubing, and want to make sure its great (Price is not important, the loop is pretty small)


Aquatuning has some


----------



## Neo Zuko

Getting better at this Ai CS6. This SM8 drawing is far more accurate then my last. More rad possibilities for me to consider:


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Getting better at this Ai CS6. This SM8 drawing is far more accurate then my last. More rad possibilities for me to consider:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't know if you are aware of this, when you mount a pedestal on top the SM8, the case top will have to be removed and placed on top the pedestal.
Of course you could modify the removable pedestal bottom any way you see fit.
The bottom frame of the pedestal is 2" at the sides, about 1" at the ends.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Getting better at this Ai CS6. This SM8 drawing is far more accurate then my last. More rad possibilities for me to consider:


Who the hell decided to use as font color white over a yellow background?!


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Oh... very nice...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this out and for sale somewhere else in the world?
> I'm still seeing "Out of Stock" on FrozenCPU and even on Swiftech's site...
> 
> Thanks -


www.highflow.nl should have them in stock in ~ 1 week


----------



## mav2000

So what's the best way to clean dust of rads? My rads are quite dusty but am afraid to take a vacuum to it, might end up hitting some fins.


----------



## airplaneman

I usually just run them under a tap. Plug the fittings, and then there is no way for the tap water to get inside and mix with the coolant.

Use the showerhead mode if you have it (the one with lots of high-powered individual streams as opposed to one big one) on the tap and just spray the dust out. I find it gets a lot of it, but sometimes there is still residual dust under the casing around the edges, so I just use a toothpick or something to pick it out. Clean a really, really, really dusty rad this way in like 10 minutes, and I could barely see through the fins because of all the dust.

Alternatively you can use the blow function on your vacuum, or use an air compressor if you have access to one. Compressed air cans would be an expensive way to do it.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> I don't know if you are aware of this, when you mount a pedestal on top the SM8, the case top will have to be removed and placed on top the pedestal.
> Of course you could modify the removable pedestal bottom any way you see fit.
> The bottom frame of the pedestal is 2" at the sides, about 1" at the ends.


Is that top like plug in play or just the pop on part or are we taking surgery to the main case that requires taking my build apart?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Who the hell decided to use as font color white over a yellow background?!


I was in need of a background color with pop that was not red or blue. And the case is black but I have yet to render it that way effectively yet.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> So what's the best way to clean dust of rads? My rads are quite dusty but am afraid to take a vacuum to it, might end up hitting some fins.


i use an old toothbrush to get the major dust off then blow it out with compressed air.
an old toothbrush is great for cleaning a lot of parts in there like the fan filters.


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hello ladies and gents,
> 
> This is my first time water cooling, so I hope you all approve!
> 
> I'm still not happy with cable management yet, so there's still a bit of tweaking work to do.
> 
> Please let me know what you all think


Classic case


----------



## jjpctech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> wow that's messy. What's the pump sitting on ?


thats a slightly older pic, the loop layout has changed and the pump is now sat on some Black Foam ontop of the HDD's.

Cable management with the amount of stuff i have in there is nigh on impossible

I am just happy that it runs nice a cool under full load, and is dead silent at idle.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Classic case


I am still in awe of it every time I look at it


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Cheers to another fellow TJ11 water cooler!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Decided I don't want it top heavy after all, so I redesigned it. Keeps the water down below in case of a leak anyway. All I had to do is reverse the airflow. Build log coming soon. I love Illustrator, made this from scratch, I have to spend more time with it in the future:


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Decided I don't want it top heavy after all, so I redesigned it. Keeps the water down below in case of a leak anyway. All I had to do is reverse the airflow. Build log coming soon:


Nice sketch. But make the *Fonts* in *black*









Can't wait to see your buildlog. It will be an awsome case.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Decided I don't want it top heavy after all, so I redesigned it. Keeps the water down below in case of a leak anyway. All I had to do is reverse the airflow. Build log coming soon. I love Illustrator, made this from scratch, I have to spend more time with it in the future:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Been seeing a lot of these sketches lately in multiple threads....ready to see that buildlog!


----------



## Neo Zuko

I deleted all old revisions, only this one Pic on this one thread remains. Build log coming soon... -ish.

Edit: OK, I know when I'm beat, I changed the text to black!! I thought the white had a cool vibe, but it was hard to read.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys, what do you think of my latest mod?

I've never seen anyone set up the Bitspower, Dual D5 pump top with a res above both pumps, but I thought it might look really cool.

Since there's only a single inlet port on the pump top, to do the dual res setup requires an adapter plate to link the pair of res's above the pump top with a single outlet to the pump top's inlet.

The construction details are in my build log, but here's a pic of the nearly finished product.

Still needs to have some black fittings swapped out for silver, and the edges beveled, but it's been running for hours with no leaks.

Thanks for looking,

Darlene


----------



## PCModderMike

Love that coolant IT Diva.

My 690 block along with some other goodies came in today....hoping to start my new build once my case comes in.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys, what do you think of my latest mod?
> 
> I've never seen anyone set up the Bitspower, Dual D5 pump top with a res above both pumps, but I thought it might look really cool.
> 
> Since there's only a single inlet port on the pump top, to do the dual res setup requires an adapter plate to link the pair of res's above the pump top with a single outlet to the pump top's inlet.
> 
> The construction details are in my build log, but here's a pic of the nearly finished product.
> 
> Still needs to have some black fittings swapped out for silver, and the edges beveled, but it's been running for hours with no leaks.
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Darlene


That looks freakin sweet... I bet that will be a pain to mount though


----------



## rymer420

MY prodigy




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Is it just me or does every Prodigy build turn out awesome? Great work dude!


----------



## rymer420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Is it just me or does every Prodigy build turn out awesome? Great work dude!


Thanks man!


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i use an old toothbrush to get the major dust off then blow it out with compressed air.
> an old toothbrush is great for cleaning a lot of parts in there like the fan filters.


Or this




Same place I got this tip from almost 2 years ago. Works like a charm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Is it just me or does every Prodigy build turn out awesome? Great work dude!


Small cases always look good when they are crammed with kit,big cases with little boards just look wrong to me.....


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Is that top like plug in play or just the pop on part or are we taking surgery to the main case that requires taking my build apart?


You just take the screws out of the case top, and put the case top on the top pedestal and screw it on. No need to remove motherboard tray or anything like that.

The pedestal will be held to the case by 4 screws in the front and 4 in the back. If you use the thumbscrews it's a quick job. The bottom plate on the pedestal will be the bulkhead between the case and the top pedestal.

For all the time you've spent on these drawings you could have done it 50 times.


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys, what do you think of my latest mod?
> 
> I've never seen anyone set up the Bitspower, Dual D5 pump top with a res above both pumps, but I thought it might look really cool.
> 
> Since there's only a single inlet port on the pump top, to do the dual res setup requires an adapter plate to link the pair of res's above the pump top with a single outlet to the pump top's inlet.
> 
> The construction details are in my build log, but here's a pic of the nearly finished product.
> 
> Still needs to have some black fittings swapped out for silver, and the edges beveled, but it's been running for hours with no leaks.
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice! kinda reminds me of the bomb from Die hard with a vengeance.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hello ladies and gents,
> 
> This is my first time water cooling, so I hope you all approve!
> 
> I'm still not happy with cable management yet, so there's still a bit of tweaking work to do.
> 
> Please let me know what you all think


I would say: *THIS* Sir ist a very close to perfect build*!* really nice work indeed









only thing I would maybe change is like you also mentioned something about cablemanagement, for example leading the graphics card wires in the gap between your bottom fans but I'm not shure if that is not maybe too much clutter at one place, just would give it a try. But what I defenitily would do is hiding the LED cables from the cpu block a little bit between the block itself and the thermal armor, maybe use a ziptie aswell to hold them close together.
...and fill up the res a little more








But that's all opinion stuff, not critizising your work at all. Really nice job









btw: one question: how about the small fans on your mobo? I am thinking about to order that mainboard for a long time now but just cannot make up my mind. I just don't want another noise sorce in my rig....


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You just take the screws out of the case top, and put the case top on the top pedestal and screw it on. No need to remove motherboard tray or anything like that.
> 
> The pedestal will be held to the case by 4 screws in the front and 4 in the back. If you use the thumbscrews it's a quick job. The bottom plate on the pedestal will be the bulkhead between the case and the top pedestal.
> 
> For all the time you've spent on these drawings you could have done it 50 times.


I spent about a day or two on it. But it was more to relearn AI CS6... It's changed a lot since the last time I looked at it. Now I could redraw it in a fractuon of the time, its fairly simple to do. That and my build log will be slow going, I wanted to have some images and whatnot. Decided to bottom mount the pedestal anyway









And I'm still wondering if I should even bother using the 3 outlets on the Apogee HD or not??? I could run each outlet to the other 3 blocks, but with the joined dial pump MCP35x2, I doubt it will make any difference.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> I would say: *THIS* Sir ist a very close to perfect build*!* really nice work indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only thing I would maybe change is like you also mentioned something about cablemanagement, for example leading the graphics card wires in the gap between your bottom fans but I'm not shure if that is not maybe too much clutter at one place, just would give it a try. But what I defenitily would do is hiding the LED cables from the cpu block a little bit between the block itself and the thermal armor, maybe use a ziptie aswell to hold them close together.
> ...and fill up the res a little more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that's all opinion stuff, not critizising your work at all. Really nice job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw: one question: how about the small fans on your mobo? I am thinking about to order that mainboard for a long time now but just cannot make up my mind. I just don't want another noise sorce in my rig....


Thank you sir









The cables are being managed as we speak. Sadly, the cutout between the fans isn't big enough, or rather the cables are to stiff to fit through, and since it is still new I am reluctant to cut it up just yet.

But thanks for the kind words, they are much appreciated.

The fans on the sabertooth do get loud, but it's only under load. You can always switch them off in the bios, if you have enough passive airflow I do not know how much they really matter.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Small cases always look good when they are crammed with kit,big cases with little boards just look wrong to me.....


Agreed. I always hate seeing huge cases w/ so much empty space because the components they are using don't fit the case.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, but then a big case full of kit is pretty sweet too!


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Hi guy it's been quite awhile since i've posted anything i usually just follow the conversation and look at some beautiful rigs...so here my new updated watercooled build, i'm running trifire 7970x2/7950









Past












Present


----------



## bundymania




----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


ill take one


----------



## jcamp6336

How does this mess look to you guys?



And no, this isnt for my R4.


----------



## phillyd

Some crappy sketchup models for my prodigy build. Gonna overhaul the inside. I'll just be using a Kraken X40 at first but I might move on to a full loop at one point.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> How does this mess look to you guys?
> 
> 
> 
> And no, this isnt for my R4.


omg. thats exactly how mine will be next weekend. well minus the 670 block for now.
and what case are you going to use?


----------



## khemist

Won't the tubing from the triple rad to the double look a bit messy?.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Won't the tubing from the triple rad to the double look a bit messy?.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> How does this mess look to you guys?


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> omg. thats exactly how mine will be next weekend. well minus the 670 block for now.
> and what case are you going to use?


Lian Li PCA70-F, the only modding ill have to do is to cut holes in the top panel for the 360, should be fun though im looking forward to trying it.


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Won't the tubing from the triple rad to the double look a bit messy?.


It might, ill have to wait till i have all the components in there to make a final assessment, but there is really a little more room in the case than in the sketch so i think i can make it work.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Just need to get some light on the GPU now, then pretty much done messing around ... for now.


I spoke too soon, just ordered another 120mm radiator for the exhaust although it isn't needed at all!.


----------



## IronDoq

WELL! I've been following this thread for, well, months actually, and it's inspired me so much! I just finished re-vamping my water loop, with a few upgrades here and there. My old was an RX 360mm in the top with an XSPC 750lph pump/res combo. Browsing the [H] for sale section I stumbled on quite a deal... a 420mm Phobya G-Charger, 280mm Phobya G-Charger, Danger Den Bay res with a D5 vario... all for $175 shipped!







I quickly sprang at the opportunity and ripped apart my switch. I had to take out the top 5.25 inch bay to fit the 420mm, well worth it! I really love how easily the switch can be taken apart, I had the thing so naked!

Anyway, we're all here for the money shots, aren't we?










Okay! So I'm using BP 3/8 x 1/2 fittings with some Primochill Advanced. The fans on the rad are some blue Cougar 140mm , I really like them! The two front intake and exhaust are AP-14s. My next GPU upgrade will definitely push me in the full watercooling spotlight, but for that I'll want to put the 280mm in the bottom. Which raised some issues, because it needs to be modded to fit. From what I understand it's a fairly simple cut, but I just don't know. Might just try and trade it for a thick 240mm and call it a night.

Anyway, I WANT SOME FEEDBACK! Should I have routed anything differently, do I really need to sleeve my cables, what could I have done better?

It's a really funny thing to be running a 3570k at 1.51v and not top 70c after hours of prime


----------



## jcamp6336

Looks great, love those galaxy 670s, used to have one, great cards.

And yes, sleeve your cables. MDPC would be best.


----------



## nleksan

You don't NEED to sleeve your cables, it's just that sleeved cables look SO MUCH BETTER than unsleeved! Especially when you have a color theme going on, the sleeved cables are often integral to pulling it off.
However, the easiest way to do it is to get BitFenix Alchemy Extensions, which are the best (inexpensive) pre-sleeved extensions you can buy, in my opinion. The sleeving is very much like Paracord, the "big" cables are all done Heatshrink-less (24pin, 8/4+4pin, 6/8pin, etc) while the smaller ones (Front Panel Connectors, USB, etc) do have a small amount of heatshrink but it's very well done and evenly applied. They are available in tons of colors, and color combinations, and you would be hard-pressed to find a cable they DON'T have a sleeved version of, so your ENTIRE case can have identically-sleeved parts









I think their blue-and-white sleeved cables would look awesome for your build, although these are the two kits out of the BitFenix options that I would consider for a build like yours:

1) BitFenix Essentials Pro Pack - ATX 24pin, EPS 8pin, 2x PCI-E 6pin Set - Blue/Silver (WAS:$39.95) NOW: $34.95



2) BitFenix Essentials Pro Pack - ATX 24pin, EPS 8pin, 2x PCI-E 6pin Set - Blue/Black (WAS:$39.95) NOW: $34.95


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> You don't NEED to sleeve your cables, it's just that sleeved cables look SO MUCH BETTER than unsleeved! Especially when you have a color theme going on, the sleeved cables are often integral to pulling it off.
> However, the easiest way to do it is to get BitFenix Alchemy Extensions, which are the best (inexpensive) pre-sleeved extensions you can buy, in my opinion. The sleeving is very much like Paracord, the "big" cables are all done Heatshrink-less (24pin, 8/4+4pin, 6/8pin, etc) while the smaller ones (Front Panel Connectors, USB, etc) do have a small amount of heatshrink but it's very well done and evenly applied. They are available in tons of colors, and color combinations, and you would be hard-pressed to find a cable they DON'T have a sleeved version of, so your ENTIRE case can have identically-sleeved parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think their blue-and-white sleeved cables would look awesome for your build, although these are the two kits out of the BitFenix options that I would consider for a build like yours:
> 
> 1) BitFenix Essentials Pro Pack - ATX 24pin, EPS 8pin, 2x PCI-E 6pin Set - Blue/Silver (WAS:$39.95) NOW: $34.95
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) BitFenix Essentials Pro Pack - ATX 24pin, EPS 8pin, 2x PCI-E 6pin Set - Blue/Black (WAS:$39.95) NOW: $34.95
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1312517/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


i have to agree with you, these are the best extension and a great choice for the overclocker that doesn't have the time and skill to sleeve. my only problem is that they don't have a set with 6pin and 8pin PCI-E (7950 with a 7970 shows it's problems







)

also, if you have a Corsair PSU and plan on a single color sleeve the Corsair kits are great too.


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Looks great, love those galaxy 670s, used to have one, great cards.
> 
> And yes, sleeve your cables. MDPC would be best.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> You don't NEED to sleeve your cables, it's just that sleeved cables look SO MUCH BETTER than unsleeved! Especially when you have a color theme going on, the sleeved cables are often integral to pulling it off.
> However, the easiest way to do it is to get BitFenix Alchemy Extensions, which are the best (inexpensive) pre-sleeved extensions you can buy, in my opinion. The sleeving is very much like Paracord, the "big" cables are all done Heatshrink-less (24pin, 8/4+4pin, 6/8pin, etc) while the smaller ones (Front Panel Connectors, USB, etc) do have a small amount of heatshrink but it's very well done and evenly applied. They are available in tons of colors, and color combinations, and you would be hard-pressed to find a cable they DON'T have a sleeved version of, so your ENTIRE case can have identically-sleeved parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think their blue-and-white sleeved cables would look awesome for your build, although these are the two kits out of the BitFenix options that I would consider for a build like yours:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1) BitFenix Essentials Pro Pack - ATX 24pin, EPS 8pin, 2x PCI-E 6pin Set - Blue/Silver (WAS:$39.95) NOW: $34.95
> 
> 
> 
> 2) BitFenix Essentials Pro Pack - ATX 24pin, EPS 8pin, 2x PCI-E 6pin Set - Blue/Black (WAS:$39.95) NOW: $34.95


Awesome, thanks! I really love the look of the cards, but my darn sound card has to sit above them. I'll be moving in a few weeks and I'll be able to ditch my wifi card, which will the let me move the sound in between the two GPUs. But with regards to sleeving, my PSU is ALMOST fully modular, with only the 24 pic fully attached. Would it then be worth it to sleeve everything manually, if only to leave the biggest cable untouched? Also, what it the comparative cost of sleeving with MDPC, as opposed to getting the bitfenix extensions? I'm sure it'll take a TON of time, regardless of cost. Also, (bear with me here) if I were to buy the extensions the wires leading into the PSU would still be their ugly selves; my question is, are they that bad? Are they very noticeable?

But man oh man, those silver and blue cables... Depending on what I hear next, I just might have to take a visit over to PPCs... Which other cables other than the 8 pin, 24 pin, and GPU connectors would you recommend that I order extensions for (assuming of course that I do indeed order them)? Which, if any, stood out in my build as ugly?


----------



## jcamp6336

nleksan:

That switch build is pretty damn awesome!









How are the temps on all that? Do you get enough out of 480mm of rad?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I got the Corsair AX1200 sleeved cable kit in black and they look great.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I was going to do the white corsair ax1200i cables and sleeve everything else myself


----------



## Neo Zuko

I was going to do the white corsair ax1200i cables and sleeve everything else myself.


----------



## 8492

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ahhh god please test the alphacool 180, i want one so bad and i can't find any reviews cause they're so new/no one tests 180s


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> instead of going that route why not grab the
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18382/ex-rad-484/Phobya_G-Changer_XTREME_Nova_1080_Full_Copper_Radiator_-_60mm.html?tl=g30c95s667
> 
> Or the
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12293/ex-rad-196/Watercool_MO-RA3_9_x_120mm_PRO_Extreme_Radiator_-_Black_Powder_Coat_22020.html?tl=g30c95s667
> 
> just to keep it a bit simpler? I am having wonderful temps with the Mo-ra3, it will probably be the last rad I ever buy!


I ended up:thumb: d









oing this:


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I ended up:thumb: d
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oing this:


Holy crap, what have you done to that case?? Nice job, keep us posted!


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Awesome, thanks! I really love the look of the cards, but my darn sound card has to sit above them. I'll be moving in a few weeks and I'll be able to ditch my wifi card, which will the let me move the sound in between the two GPUs. But with regards to sleeving, my PSU is ALMOST fully modular, with only the 24 pic fully attached. Would it then be worth it to sleeve everything manually, if only to leave the biggest cable untouched? Also, what it the comparative cost of sleeving with MDPC, as opposed to getting the bitfenix extensions? I'm sure it'll take a TON of time, regardless of cost. Also, (bear with me here) if I were to buy the extensions the wires leading into the PSU would still be their ugly selves; my question is, are they that bad? Are they very noticeable?
> 
> But man oh man, those silver and blue cables... Depending on what I hear next, I just might have to take a visit over to PPCs... Which other cables other than the 8 pin, 24 pin, and GPU connectors would you recommend that I order extensions for (assuming of course that I do indeed order them)? Which, if any, stood out in my build as ugly?


I personally think that these are the most important:
- 24pin
- 8pin EPS (and 4/4+4pin EPS if applicable)
- 6pin or 8pin PCI-Express

Following those, I think that these are also a good idea to "complete" the look:
- SATA Data Cables
- SATA Power
- Fan Splitters
- PWM Extension(s)
- MOLEX (if used)

Front panel cables are the least necessary, depending on how well you can hide them. In the Switch 810, for example, I didn't really need to sleeve my front panel cables as they are not really even visible.

Also, I have a semi-modular PSU, and I don't think that the 24/8/4+4/2x6+2 cables that aren't modular look bad at all. You could always use some Tech-Flex wrap to just make one big bundle and have them better blend in with the case, though?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> nleksan:
> 
> That switch build is pretty damn awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are the temps on all that? Do you get enough out of 480mm of rad?


Thank you!









I am actually using a 420 (3x140) and a 240 (2x120), both with very powerful fans in push-pull; together, they keep everything extremely cool. GPU stays under 45C and CPU under 60C, fully-overclocked to the levels mentioned in my sig, and while running P95 + 3dMark11 at the same time to stress them. Delta-T of the loop is about 3C under load!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Holy crap, what have you done to that case?? Nice job, keep us posted!


Will do and the paint looks a little shavvy in that pic but after I baked it it turned out nice and even! Will be trying to install the RADS and Mobo tonite, got to measure to install some plexi so it helps that the mobo tray was removeable


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Holy crap, what have you done to that case?? Nice job, keep us posted!


Here is a pic and a link to my other build which has been taking up most of my time.......

http://www.overclock.net/t/1359900/scorch-build-by-mccsolutions-another-all-red-amd-build-phenom-ii-820-oc-budget-build-hd5750-red-and-pink-cathodes-thermaltake-v3-black-amd-edition/100#post_193


75512


----------



## dartuil

what liquid non-conductive and without trash for my loop?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> what liquid non-conductive and without trash for my loop?


I use IRONSIDE mixed with EK for mine!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> You don't NEED to sleeve your cables, it's just that sleeved cables look SO MUCH BETTER than unsleeved! Especially when you have a color theme going on, the sleeved cables are often integral to pulling it off.
> However, the easiest way to do it is to get BitFenix Alchemy Extensions, which are the best (inexpensive) pre-sleeved extensions you can buy, in my opinion. The sleeving is very much like Paracord, the "big" cables are all done Heatshrink-less (24pin, 8/4+4pin, 6/8pin, etc) while the smaller ones (Front Panel Connectors, USB, etc) do have a small amount of heatshrink but it's very well done and evenly applied. They are available in tons of colors, and color combinations, and you would be hard-pressed to find a cable they DON'T have a sleeved version of, so your ENTIRE case can have identically-sleeved parts


AGREED! I did some of mine in PET and in 550Cord(paracord):


----------



## PatrickCrowely

I keep having to top off my reservoir. There's no leaks, I have an XSPC dual bay res. It's a few bubbles in the window, have bled it by rocking it side to side.


----------



## 8492

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Just need to get some light on the GPU now, then pretty much done messing around ... for now.


Thats a great looking build! How well do you find the 360 rad handles the cooling?

Edit:also do you have a build Log somewhere? I can't seem to find it but I'm also on my phone so


----------



## MCCSolutions

Better Pic I think......


----------



## khemist

The temps are a lot better than air and also i just ordered another 120mm rad so im expecting a BIT of a drop... nothing drastic.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

*This applies to everyone.*

Please, don't double post. There is an edit button for a reason:










Double posting just makes the forum look messy and is not needed. I know not all of you do it, but some do, and it is essential in a large picture heavy thread like this that you don't, as it can cause confusion. If you see a double/triple post, please do report it and we will merge/delete accordingly, if you accidentally double/triple post, please also report it and we will merge/delete the posts.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8492*
> 
> Thats a great looking build! How well do you find the 360 rad handles the cooling?
> 
> Edit:also do you have a build Log somewhere? I can't seem to find it but I'm also on my phone so


8492 - I never do a total upgrade and just upgrade parts as i need to so i don't have a build log.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Better Pic I think......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


still speechless.

i can already imagine this:
"well, my rig has a 3970X OCed over 5Ghz, quad Titan Setup, everything WC etc"
"Oh Yeah? My Rig is Drunk!" (can't top that)


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> still speechless.
> 
> i can already imagine this:
> "well, my rig has a 3970X OCed over 5Ghz, quad Titan Setup, everything WC etc"
> "Oh Yeah? My Rig is Drunk!" (can't top that)


Lol







and this is why I try to keep my builds unique and different. But its one of my favorite drinks lol which helped inspire the decision lol.....


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this is why I try to keep my builds unique and different. But its one of my favorite drinks lol which helped inspire the decision lol.....


Builds like yours are the ones that inspire everyone since it's the uniqueness that makes rigs beautiful and not always the Enthusiast high end effect (though it doesn't make it worse







)

i actually have a neat idea myself but the lack of time (heck, can't really find time to OC at all.), modding skills and the creative vision of planning keep me of bay at constructing the (Utopian) idea










Spoiler: The Idea!



Command & Conquer inspired theme with either a Red Alert Soviet look or a C&C Nod theme with some tiberium.

have no idea where to start with this, only know that i want to incorporate water cooling into this and a few plates and covers.


----------



## sectionsone

share bitfenix prodigy black & white project . Not finished yet

Need your comment ^^


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this is why I try to keep my builds unique and different. But its one of my favorite drinks lol which helped inspire the decision lol.....


Yeah I'm a big fan of ethanol as well - but I just use it as a fuel not a drink.







Although with the right amount of cut fruit and a big enough cooler 151 has it's place.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> share bitfenix prodigy black & white project . Not finished yet
> Need your comment ^^
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Build log? Dual micro builds with bent piping... you sir are insane! I need more information on this insanity immediately.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Sorry double.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> share bitfenix prodigy black & white project . Not finished yet
> 
> Need your comment ^^


is that chromatized copper pipe you're using there? that's awesome


----------



## Car17

Anyone can jump in on this but, WHERE do you go finding that kind of pipe, and who bends it. I spent an hour trying to find a log or another post showing more on this subject but could not. Can anyone help?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> *This applies to everyone.*
> 
> Please, don't double post. There is an edit button for a reason:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double posting just makes the forum look messy and is not needed. I know not all of you do it, but some do, and it is essential in a large picture heavy thread like this that you don't, as it can cause confusion. If you see a double/triple post, please do report it and we will merge/delete accordingly, if you accidentally double/triple post, please also report it and we will merge/delete the posts.


Fix Huddler and then we'll talk









On-topic ... what suggestions do you guys have for bleeding a loop? Currently I'm using my CPU inlet as an outlet so that might be a problem








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> Anyone can jump in on this but, WHERE do you go finding that kind of pipe, and who bends it. I spent an hour trying to find a log or another post showing more on this subject but could not. Can anyone help?


You buy copper piping at home depot. You bend it yourself. PM deafboy for more info


----------



## Spite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> Anyone can jump in on this but, WHERE do you go finding that kind of pipe, and who bends it. I spent an hour trying to find a log or another post showing more on this subject but could not. Can anyone help?


Hopefully this answers some of your questions: http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101


----------



## sgthotrod

Here is mine. First build pretty basic but i'm happy.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgthotrod*
> 
> Here is mine. First build pretty basic but i'm happy.


looks nice and clean, sweet build


----------



## gunslinger0077

here is specs
amd 8350
sabertooth mobo
nvidia 670
xpsc raystorm rx 360 water cooling kit


----------



## Car17

Does anyone have any experience with this pump? How many Blocks/Radiators can it handle?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15690/ex-pmp-192/Aquacomputer_Aquastream_XT_USB_12V_Pump_-_Ultra_Version_41061.html?tl=g30c107s153


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with this pump? How many Blocks/Radiators can it handle?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15690/ex-pmp-192/Aquacomputer_Aquastream_XT_USB_12V_Pump_-_Ultra_Version_41061.html?tl=g30c107s153
> 
> [image cut]


I'll quote this for you:
Quote:


> _For a loop consisting of a CPU-, GPU-, MB-cooler and up to 9x120mm rads, a single pump (D5/Laing DDC/Aquastream XT) is enough. You may include more than one pump, but the cooling power won't increase. Another option is the way of few seperated loops, like every cooler has its own loop and radiators._


----------



## audioholic

My work in progress:


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> My work in progress:


Would you guys stop posting all of these sweet Mini ITX builds............... What would I do with my full size and a Mini......



That is what Im thinking I want for the Mini ITX build I would like to start.


----------



## PinzaC55

I've recently done a video of my rig and posted it to Youtube and I wondered am I allowed to post a link to it here?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with this pump? How many Blocks/Radiators can it handle?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15690/ex-pmp-192/Aquacomputer_Aquastream_XT_USB_12V_Pump_-_Ultra_Version_41061.html?tl=g30c107s153


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with this pump? How many Blocks/Radiators can it handle?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15690/ex-pmp-192/Aquacomputer_Aquastream_XT_USB_12V_Pump_-_Ultra_Version_41061.html?tl=g30c107s153


So much rad estate for only a CPU and MoBo block... (though this IS OCN after all







)

Could anyone comment on using different fans on a rad for push pull? Is it good / bad? no effect? damages one of the fans? (the main idea is to have a front rad with LED fans in the front while having non LED fans in the rear)

also, i know I've asked this too many times to be a fair question anymore but if anyone have any suggestions whatsoever to the loop idea i'd be grateful (but keep them in the bounds of the realistic):
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i actually have a neat idea myself but the lack of time (heck, can't really find time to OC at all.), modding skills and the creative vision of planning keep me of bay at constructing the (Utopian) idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The Idea!
> 
> 
> 
> Command & Conquer inspired theme with either a Red Alert Soviet look or a C&C Nod theme with some tiberium.
> 
> have no idea where to start with this, only know that i want to incorporate water cooling into this and a few plates and covers.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with this pump? How many Blocks/Radiators can it handle?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15690/ex-pmp-192/Aquacomputer_Aquastream_XT_USB_12V_Pump_-_Ultra_Version_41061.html?tl=g30c107s153


I just sold my Ulltra XT very recently, i had used it for about a yr-great software-very silent and enough for 1 CPU and 2 GPUs inc a 240 and a 120 monsta radiator-great pump BUT, the D5 and the DCC pumps are much more powerful.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I've recently done a video of my rig and posted it to Youtube and *I wondered am I allowed to post a link to it here*?


Bold font - Absolutely yes!


----------



## mr one

whats the best mini case for water cooling...? i have two choices:
1. mod the hell out of fd core 1000 to fit 240mm rad
2. arc mini..>?
at least i know that someone gonna say that bitfenic prodigy


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> whats the best mini case for water cooling...? i have two choices:
> 1. mod the hell out of fd core 1000 to fit 240mm rad
> 2. arc mini..>?
> at least i know that someone gonna say that bitfenic prodigy


Caselabs has their new S3 Mercury coming out soon!

Mini-ITX form factor, space for (so far) 2x 280 rads!

Thanks -


----------



## LayerCakes

I'm getting pretty hot temps on my CPU still. like well in to the 80's and i've got more than enough rad. I've tried reseating my CPU block and even changing my CPU block but no luck









Could it be my GPU blocks in series before the CPU? Could that bottleneck be restricting the flow too much?


----------



## goldry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> Would you guys stop posting all of these sweet Mini ITX builds............... What would I do with my full size and a Mini......
> 
> 
> 
> That is what Im thinking I want for the Mini ITX build I would like to start.


Nice one


----------



## Wizid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> Or this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same place I got this tip from almost 2 years ago. Works like a charm


I built this for my shop. Someone gave me an august west soot sweeper. I ducked the suction part under the cabinet and the exhaust out my basement window. I place an item in here close the plastic curtain and hardly any dust in my shop. I really do not like breathing that stuff....



Underneath the cabinet there is a small vac just set to blow with a small nossle. Works the bomb...


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Caselabs has their new S3 Mercury coming out soon!
> 
> Mini-ITX form factor, space for (so far) 2x 280 rads!
> 
> Thanks -


with shipping to eu its gonna cost me almost same price as all my pc parts came







so this option i cant take


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Bold font - Absolutely yes!


Cool. Here it is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56at21XAagY


----------



## NostraD

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> Would you guys stop posting all of these sweet Mini ITX builds............... What would I do with my full size and a Mini......






This M1 case isn't in production yet is it? Just a prototype? Because I want one when they start selling! Either that or the Compact Splash limited production model that She Loved E and DWood are putting together.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> Anyone can jump in on this but, WHERE do you go finding that kind of pipe, and who bends it. I spent an hour trying to find a log or another post showing more on this subject but could not. Can anyone help?


Bending guide in my sig,you can PM me for any specific help


----------



## tnt0325

Ive been lurking around theses forums for quite some time. Found tons of use full info here on just about anything you could possibly want to ever know about OC'n & water cooling. So here it is the final product o f the info I have gathered on these forums. Thanks, and please be gentle with any constructive criticism.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tnt0325*
> 
> Ive been lurking around theses forums for quite some time. Found tons of use full info here on just about anything you could possibly want to ever know about OC'n & water cooling. So here it is the final product o f the info I have gathered on these forums. Thanks, and please be gentle with any constructive criticism.


Looks pretty good actually







The only thing I could say would to be to tidy up the wires alittle, they already look good but the way there ran looks a little aqward...


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Looks pretty good actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I could say would to be to tidy up the wires alittle, they already look good but the way there ran looks a little aqward...


agreed. Wrapping wires around hoses..why not put that 24 pin in the next grommet down?


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This M1 case isn't in production yet is it? Just a prototype? Because I want one when they start selling! Either that or the Compact Splash limited production model that She Loved E and DWood are putting together.


If you want one of the M1 cases you have to pre order and they are only making a set amount...

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ncase-m1-prototype-a-mini-itx-case


----------



## sectionsone

@DiGiCiDAL sorry i don't have worklog bro

@Tonky
No it's stainless tube bro. Thank you


----------



## Fieel

Guys, if you could choose a reservoir NOW, the best looking one of the world (in your opinion obviously), what would you use?

PS. no frontal bay reservoirs (noone left







)


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Guys, if you could choose a reservoir NOW, the best looking one of the world (in your opinion obviously), what would you use?
> 
> PS. no frontal bay reservoirs (noone left
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I chose this one for the reasons above. It is large , clean looking, versitle, and has third semi opaque plug that a 5mm LED fits into for bottom up illumination.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html?tl=g30c97


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I chose this one for the reasons above. It is large , clean looking, versitle, and has third semi opaque plug that a 5mm LED fits into for bottom up illumination.
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html?tl=g30c97


I second this choice. I like the BP res's.


----------



## PCModderMike

That would be my choice as well, actually have had 3 of those reservoirs now.
But I would get the all acrylic version, looks better IMO.


----------



## phillyd

My vote is for the FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That would be my choice as well, actually have had 3 of those reservoirs now.
> But I would get the all acrylic version, looks better IMO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah man! I got the 80mm Acrylic res and it looks good!


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I ended up:thumb: doing this:


does a normal length PSU fit in there with the 360 in the bottom? I have been debating modding my 700D to fit a 240 down there.


----------



## MaDeuce50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> My vote is for the FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V


+1 for FrozenQ Res. Excellent customer service also. I emailed Alex with a crappy MS paint drawing for custom side ports and he was very helpful. Best part of it is custom side ports are free!
You can also change out the helix and the cathode lights which is awesome.


----------



## mr one

Ok got my mind set on Fractal design arc mini and bitfenbis prodigy because they has both a good water cooling parts compactibility, maybe someone has a some tips which one is better than other?


----------



## Swiftes

Thankyou for shopping at WCUK Online. This email is to acknowledge placement of order number #40488.

You have ordered the following items:

Qty: 10
Code: 506020743TB
Product: 1/4" BSPP - 3/8" ID - 5/8" OD Compression Fitting - Thermochill
Price: 1.49 GBP

Qty: 1
Code: XSPC-DDCRES
Product: Laing DDC Acrylic Tank Reservoir - XSPC
Price: 19.99 GBP

Qty: 1
Code: SWI-NEO-PAD
Product: Swiftech / Laing DDC Neoprene Anti-Vibration Pad Kit
Price: 2.25 GBP

Qty: 3
Code: 59063
Product: Masterkleer tubing PVC 16/10mm (3/8ID) Clear
Price: 3.78 GBP

Qty: 1
Code: PMCLEARBIO
Product: 10ml Pulse Modding PM Nuke Concentrated Biocide
Price: 2.99 GBP

Thats the rest of the parts for my CPU loop, ill post pics when I get it all up and running


----------



## bundymania




----------



## audioholic




----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaDeuce50*
> 
> +1 for FrozenQ Res. Excellent customer service also. I emailed Alex with a crappy MS paint drawing for custom side ports and he was very helpful. Best part of it is custom side ports are free!
> You can also change out the helix and the cathode lights which is awesome.
> cut


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I chose this one for the reasons above. It is large , clean looking, versitle, and has third semi opaque plug that a 5mm LED fits into for bottom up illumination.
> cut
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html?tl=g30c97


So it's basically a fight between the FrozenQ (that i absolutely love, almost used it with my build) and the Bitspower one.

I wonder how the FroyenQ looks with UV Dye in it and not just clear water.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Zero383

Here's an mITX gaming rig I did last year.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So,the bottom rad bay is done on the windowed side and the main components are in for the pre-mod shake down

Forgive the pic quality,using my cam phone.



There will be thin clear plexi strips across the opening like a grill.



More Alu coming tomorrow for the interior,im aiming to get the whole lower rad bay finished,pumps mounted and all the plastics back on by weekend (better pictures as well!)


----------



## tiborrr12

Some more for your viewing pleasure:





And a brand new one, EK-FC7970 Matrix - http://www.ekwb.com/news/317/19/EK-introduces-EK-FC7970-Matrix-Full-Cover-water-block/:


----------



## AMC

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Some more for your viewing pleasure:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a brand new one, EK-FC7970 Matrix - http://www.ekwb.com/news/317/19/EK-introduces-EK-FC7970-Matrix-Full-Cover-water-block/:






<3


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Finally rid of those ridiculous circles... Looks like I won't have to wait until koolance releases a block this time.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Some more for your viewing pleasure:


I want this one for my future GFX Titan GPU!

Oh, and does it include a front-plate too?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> 
> <3


Am I the only one that wishes these EK blocks were full coverage waterblocks? Like the entire PCB


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero383*
> 
> Here's an mITX gaming rig I did last year.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's nice, very nice!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,the bottom rad bay is done on the windowed side and the main components are in for the pre-mod shake down
> 
> Forgive the pic quality,using my cam phone.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will be thin clear plexi strips across the opening like a grill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Alu coming tomorrow for the interior,im aiming to get the whole lower rad bay finished,pumps mounted and all the plastics back on by weekend (better pictures as well!)










cell phone pics! I'm somewhat disappointed Bneg...haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Am I the only one that wishes these EK blocks were full coverage waterblocks? Like the entire PCB


I like full coverage blocks as well (covering the entire PCB). But I still think that Titan block is pretty darn sexy.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero383*
> 
> Here's an mITX gaming rig I did last year.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really clean build. I like the logo on the res. When are you getting that card under water?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Some more for your viewing pleasure:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a brand new one, EK-FC7970 Matrix - http://www.ekwb.com/news/317/19/EK-introduces-EK-FC7970-Matrix-Full-Cover-water-block/:


Great, just when I got use to the crop circles.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Great, just when I got use to the crop circles.


still like mine







ill even scoop em up if the begin to get cheaper!


----------



## Zero383

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Really clean build. I like the logo on the res. When are you getting that card under water?


Thanks. Logo was made with a laser printer and some double sided tape haha. Soon I hope but it won't be staying in the Prodigy. I'm going to put it back into my desktop because the thin 240mm rad won't be able to keep up with an overclocked 3570K and a GTX 680.









Here's the block I'll be using (Watercool Heatkiller Hole Edition)


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Some more for your viewing pleasure:


Very nice! Well done EK.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Finally rid of those ridiculous circles... Looks like I won't have to wait until koolance releases a block this time.


I didn't hate the CSQ design but it was not very attrackting for some. Even that I liked their blocks with the circles, especially the Mobo blocks and Supremacies

This new design is also awsome, I really love EK









The plain black is











Plexi is nice too:


----------



## Zero383




----------



## RKTGX95

if EK would make a new version of the regular 7970 blocks in the same style that the Titan blocks are made i'd be a happy sport. (and with FC LINKS to compliment these, especially clear / frosted ones)

btw,
any ideas of the effects of using different fans on a rad in P/P ? (i.e. a slower fan in the front or oppositely)


----------



## phillyd

Am I the only one who thinks the EK FC7950 acrylic/nickel blocks are sexy?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> still like mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill even scoop em up if the begin to get cheaper!


Same here! I like the look. I have a CSQ CPU block that I got for x-mas, still haven't installed it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero383*
> 
> Thanks. Logo was made with a laser printer and some double sided tape haha. Soon I hope but it won't be staying in the Prodigy. I'm going to put it back into my desktop because the thin 240mm rad won't be able to keep up with an overclocked 3570K and a GTX 680.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the block I'll be using (Watercool Heatkiller Hole Edition)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice block! What case are you switching too?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Am I the only one who thinks the EK FC7950 acrylic/nickel blocks are sexy?


Acetal/Nickel?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Am I the only one who thinks the EK FC7950 acrylic/nickel blocks are sexy?


They are ugly! Why? Because i can't use them







(7970 pcb)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Some more for your viewing pleasure:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a brand new one, EK-FC7970 Matrix - http://www.ekwb.com/news/317/19/EK-introduces-EK-FC7970-Matrix-Full-Cover-water-block/:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well now they are just Koolance blocks .... Snore.

I do like what I think I see on the port section. Am I right in thinking that the top square section unbolts to be replaced by a multilink bridge, much like the Heatkiller system works?


----------



## phillyd

mmmm (EK-FC7950)


----------



## dmanstasiu

Does anyone know which 7970 blocks are compatible with MSI reference cards?

I bought an Alphacool NeXxXos block but it doesn't fit  I'm specifically interested if the EK Nickel/acetal full cover blocks are compatible with MSI's reference 7970 models (Non-lightning)

Any answers / other block suggestions ?


----------



## deadtroll

If it is a reference card then get the an ek block that is specific to the reference 7970. EK makes a few. You can utilize this website to ensure that you have the right block. http://www.coolingconfigurator.com You should be able to find out what block will fit your specific card so long as your card has not been revised. XFX is notorious for revising their cards and the end result often means that water-blocks may not fit onto the revised cards. Reference cards are easy to find water-blocks for though.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Does anyone know which 7970 blocks are compatible with MSI reference cards?
> 
> I bought an Alphacool NeXxXos block but it doesn't fit  I'm specifically interested if the EK Nickel/acetal full cover blocks are compatible with MSI's reference 7970 models (Non-lightning)
> 
> Any answers / other block suggestions ?


If you put up a picture you will get a def answer but reference means reference, if one reference block doesn't fit your card none will. It may not be a reference card, many 7970's are now made with altered PCB's to reduce cost ... including models that originally used reference PCB's ( Like the Gigabyte WF3 7970 )


----------



## deadtroll

I think that EK blocks are getting progressively worse. I like the original 7970 water blocks, then they came out with those silly circles, now I see this plain black look. They went from an awesome looking block to a weird block to a plain ugly block. Everything is not for everyone though. I am a big fan of EK myself though, ,despite the lack of appeal in recent blocks, mainly because they put out so many products and give water coolers so many choices. I am looking forward to the asus matrix water-block although I suspect that the block itself will look like the 7990 block. Plain black. So unimaginative.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Does anyone know which 7970 blocks are compatible with MSI reference cards?
> 
> I bought an Alphacool NeXxXos block but it doesn't fit  I'm specifically interested if the EK Nickel/acetal full cover blocks are compatible with MSI's reference 7970 models (Non-lightning)
> 
> Any answers / other block suggestions ?


which version did you get?
the V1 variant of the Alphacool block fits all reference 7970 and 7950. only draw back that it doesn't cool actively (with direct water flow) the VRMs.

The V2 however does cool the VRM's but only fits the 7950 reference design and some a bit obscure 7970s.


Spoiler: some links



compatibility list:
http://www.alphacool.com/download/compatibility%20list%20ATI.pdf

V1:
http://www.alphacool.com/download/Anleitung_HD%207970_oB%201.%20Version.pdf





V2:
http://www.alphacool.com/download/Anleitung_HD%2079xx_oB.pdf







Edit:

or as Jakusonfire mentioned, changes could be the problem.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah see that's a problem with Euro blocks, there is often confusion over what fits what.

The V1 fits 7970 ref PCB
the V2 fits 7950 ref PCB

You can't have one block that fits both because they use different mount holes.

Now, some 7950 cards used 7970 PCB's and vice versa but that does not mean that either block fits both ref designs


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah see that's a problem with Euro blocks, there is often confusion over what fits what.
> 
> The V1 fits 7970 ref PCB
> the V2 fits 7950 ref PCB
> 
> You can't have one block that fits both because they use different mount holes.
> 
> Now, some 7950 cards used 7970 PCB's and vice versa but that does not mean that either block fits both ref designs


the only drawback of the best 7950 out there







(sapphire 950mhz ed)

but seriously Alphacool, this is Madness. (and bad/lazy planning)


----------



## Crooksy

Hi guys,

Finally joined the custom loop club! All of my components can be found in my sig rig.

I've only had it running for a few days and therefore my AS5 hasn't fully cured. However, I have some good results I feel. I haven't done any stress tests yet but I have done a little gaming.

CPU idle - 17c - 25c depending on the ambient.

CPU load (BF3) tops out at 65c

GPU idle - 22c - 24c

GPU load (BF3) - tops out at 35c

My CPU is currently running at 4.2Ghz on stock volts. Haven't really had time to fine tune my clocks yet but was hoping for 4.5Ghz.


----------



## dmanstasiu

god damnit. that explains a lot

a few weeks back i had checked to see if the alphacool block fits my card. it did (this was the V1. i was not aware of different versions at the time)

the one i bought, was the V2.

Well this sucks.

_"The V1 fits 7970 ref PCB
the V2 fits 7950 ref PCB"_

I have this card:


I guess I'll have to buy an EK GPU block after all


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Hi guys,
> *Finally joined the custom loop* club! All of my components can be found in my sig rig.
> I've only had it running for a few days and therefore my AS5 hasn't fully cured. However, I have some good results I feel. I haven't done any stress tests yet but I have done a little gaming.
> *CPU idle - 17c - 25c* depending on the ambient.
> CPU load (BF3) tops out at 65c
> GPU idle - 22c - 24c
> GPU load (BF3) - tops out at 35c
> My CPU is currently running at 4.2Ghz on stock volts. Haven't really had time to fine tune my clocks yet but was hoping for 4.5Ghz.


It's about time









You have great temps, you must have very low ambient


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Finally rid of those ridiculous circles... Looks like I won't have to wait until koolance releases a block this time.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't hate the CSQ design but it was not very attrackting for some. Even that I liked their blocks with the circles, especially the Mobo blocks and Supremacies
> 
> This new design is also awsome, I really love EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plain black is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plexi is nice too:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Man...Copper...
Click to expand...


----------



## dartuil

Ek should make block for non reference cards like me :
http://www.overclockers.ru/images/lab/2012/10/08/1/11_PC_PCB_big.jpg

before doing blocks for 1000$ Gpu , fit the 300$ GPU's first
not everyone can buy a titan


----------



## dmanstasiu

People who spend $1000 per GPU are more likely to get gpu blocks than those who are spending $300 per GPU

also, many more Titans will be sold than your royalqueen


----------



## dartuil

my card is not the only one with this PCB
im not jealous of titan glad if they can pay one


----------



## pc-illiterate

so i have to pull mt factory heatsink off my gb wf3 to see which block it takes? any way of checking serial numbers or something in the sku?


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> It's about time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have great temps, you must have very low ambient


Yeah the ambients aren't too bad. The core difference isn't great but that's always been the case. I suppose that could be down to the new process they used with Ivy's IHS.

How do you guys get the air out of your rads if they're higher than your res?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> so i have to pull mt factory heatsink off my gb wf3 to see which block it takes? any way of checking serial numbers or something in the sku?


Look at the blocks compatibility listing for one. but as things like reference to non reference use can change without notice (see XFX DD) a visual inspection is the best way to not get surprised.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> god damnit. that explains a lot
> 
> a few weeks back i had checked to see if the alphacool block fits my card. it did (this was the V1. i was not aware of different versions at the time)
> 
> the one i bought, was the V2.
> 
> Well this sucks.
> 
> _"The V1 fits 7970 ref PCB
> the V2 fits 7950 ref PCB"_
> 
> I have this card:
> 
> 
> I guess I'll have to buy an EK GPU block after all


try your luck and return the V2 block and maybe youre even more lucky and the V1 is already in stock. (if you don't mind VRM cooling on the V1)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Finally rid of those ridiculous circles... Looks like I won't have to wait until koolance releases a block this time.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't hate the CSQ design but it was not very attrackting for some. Even that I liked their blocks with the circles, especially the Mobo blocks and Supremacies
> 
> This new design is also awsome, I really love EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plain black is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plexi is nice too:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Man...Copper...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No man,Black and Nickel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the right way up to ogle at....
Click to expand...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Finally rid of those ridiculous circles... Looks like I won't have to wait until koolance releases a block this time.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't hate the CSQ design but it was not very attrackting for some. Even that I liked their blocks with the circles, especially the Mobo blocks and Supremacies
> 
> This new design is also awsome, I really love EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plain black is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plexi is nice too:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Man...Copper...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No man,Black and Nickel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the right way up to ogle at....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have to give ya the right way up to ogle at, something should be done about this
Click to expand...


----------



## dmanstasiu

I bought it from a member over at [H] forums. Not much I can do unfortunately


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Epic broken quote FTW.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Are the GT AP-29 fans still in production? I want to slowly buy 20 of them for my watercooling rig and mod them for PWM.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> does a normal length PSU fit in there with the 360 in the bottom? I have been debating modding my 700D to fit a 240 down there.


It should fit a normal length PSU in the 700D, Mine fits the bigger 1000w and up PSU's with a 360mm. A normal Length PSU is only about 6" mine is 7 1/4" to 7 1/2". But I would always measure youur case and the exact dimentions of the RAD your gonna buy and see if the RAD plus the PSU in length is shorter than the available space in the case for a good fit!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> People who spend $1000 per GPU are more likely to get gpu blocks than those who are spending $300 per GPU
> 
> also, many more Titans will be sold than your royalqueen


Thats true I can vouch for that lol. I only spent about $120-$160 for each of my HD6970's and Im using Corsair Coolers with a triptcc mod plate. It is what it is lol


----------



## TSXmike

Gear has been ordered. Now just to wait for it to get here so i can start modding.


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

My first attempt at water cooling. Not bad if I say so myself.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Why does the water seem murky?


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Why does the water seem murky?


Because it's grey. I don't care much about flashy colors.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> Because it's grey. I don't care much about flashy colors.


Nice mod getting the 360 in the front. The color is literally advertised and sold to be grey? Where did it come from?
And just curious, but why is the card not mounted in the top PCIe slot?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Oh that's re-assuring. It looks dope, I just wasn't sure if it was plasticizer or something else

Is the grey translucent tubing or did you use a dye of some sort ?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Oh that's re-assuring. It looks dope, I just wasn't sure if it was plasticizer or something else
> 
> Is the grey translucent tubing or did you use a dye of some sort ?


Looking at the res, it looks like the coolant itself has the color to it...but I'm wondering too haha.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Oh that's re-assuring. It looks dope, I just wasn't sure if it was plasticizer or something else
> 
> Is the grey translucent tubing or did you use a dye of some sort ?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the res, it looks like the coolant itself has the color to it...but I'm wondering too haha.
Click to expand...

I checked that but wasn't sure. I know stren was looking into grey dyes so this kinda interested me


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

The dye is Mayhems Pastel White with a 1 drop of Mayhems Blood Red dye to 10 drop of Mayhems Emerald Green dye. Of course it's more than 1 and 10 drops but that's the ratio. I didn't put the card in the top slot because I'm really not a fan if it there. I've tested the card in first and third slot and there isn't a difference in performance.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> The dye is Mayhems Pastel White with a 1 drop of Mayhems Blood Red dye to 10 drop of Mayhems Emerald Green dye. Of course it's more than 1 and 10 drops but that's the ratio. I didn't put the card in the top slot because I'm really not a fan if it there. I've tested the card in first and third slot and there isn't a difference in performance.


Very cool, nice custom mix on the dye.








Yea I didn't really think there would be a difference in performance using either the top or 3rd slot....just thought it looked kind of odd. But, what's important is that you like it, so great!


----------



## jokrik

Does the pastel would create problem if the pc itself does not run 24/7?
I've heard alot of problem with aurora where if the pc isnt running 24/7 the paste would stuck at the bottom somewhere

this is the only reason why I dont wanna risk using mayhem since I fly so much and left the pc off 2-4 days every week


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Does the pastel would create problem if the pc itself does not run 24/7?
> I've heard alot of problem with aurora where if the pc isnt running 24/7 the paste would stuck at the bottom somewhere
> 
> this is the only reason why I dont wanna risk using mayhem since I fly so much and left the pc off 2-4 days every week


You're fine. The reason why Aurora is a problem for even 24/7 use is because the pearls that give it that awesome look tend to settle in dead zones, which may adversely impact your cooling performance, as well as just end up making it look like normal pastel.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> My first attempt at water cooling. Not bad if I say so myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why did you put the GPU so low?


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> My first attempt at water cooling. Not bad if I say so myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why did you put the GPU so low?
> 
> 
> 
> he wanted to make the most of his 4X slot. lol
Click to expand...


----------



## dmanstasiu

No. The slot is also x16. He had dual x16 lanes. It doesn't make a difference for performance, it's just an aesthetic choice


----------



## MCCSolutions

SO FAR SO GOOD!!!


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> No. The slot is also x16. He had dual x16 lanes. It doesn't make a difference for performance, it's just an aesthetic choice


Thank you


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> My first attempt at water cooling. Not bad if I say so myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why did you put the GPU so low?
> 
> 
> 
> Great Pump isnt it? My first build as well and I will always go with these pumps. Nice, Quiet and will push through multiple blocks/rads!!!
Click to expand...


----------



## Car17

3 Dell U2212HM 21.5 @ 3500x1920
Dual Asus HD 6850
AMD FX-8320
1 360mm, 1 400mm rad


----------



## Canis-X

Really nice build Car17!!


----------



## MiiX

Anyone who can google better than me? :\
Im looking for perfomance differences on the Alphacool UT60-series radiators, 1 fan vs 2 fans(push/pull).


----------



## Jetskyer

Hi everyone!
I've been reading a lot in this thread and on my way of building my own watercooled PC.

I have a 3D drawing now of what I'd like it to be like and I'm generally quite pleased, however I'm concerned about the negative pressure in the case when the big 180mm fan would kick in as well.


Got my own thread here: PowerMac G5 build

Hope to hear everyone's thoughts on this, thanks!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> I've been reading a lot in this thread and on my way of building my own watercooled PC.
> 
> I have a 3D drawing now of what I'd like it to be like and I'm generally quite pleased, however I'm concerned about the negative pressure in the case when the big 180mm fan would kick in as well.
> 
> 
> Got my own thread here: PowerMac G5 build
> 
> Hope to hear everyone's thoughts on this, thanks!


If you get a Silverstone air filter it should help. I would say set everything to intake and exhaust out the back and you shouldn't have a problem. It might run a little hotter having a lot of positive pressure but you wouldn't have to clean it.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> My first attempt at water cooling. Not bad if I say so myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job on you're first loop. What kind of rad did you stuff in the front? AlphaCool?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 Dell U2212HM 21.5 @ 3500x1920
> Dual Asus HD 6850
> AMD FX-8320
> 1 360mm, 1 400mm rad


Nice set up! I'm liking the x3 monitors in portrait.


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> Really nice build Car17!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice job on you're first loop. What kind of rad did you stuff in the front? AlphaCool?
> Nice set up! I'm liking the x3 monitors in portrait.


Thanks guys the 400mm Rad is Phobya, Basically out of stock the two places that carry it. The 360 is the Crossflow from XSPC, I do not recommend the crossflow design since it adds about 1 more inch to the Radiator. I totally over looked that 1inch, Thank Goodness for Dremel!!!


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> If you get a Silverstone air filter it should help. I would say set everything to intake and exhaust out the back and you shouldn't have a problem. It might run a little hotter having a lot of positive pressure but you wouldn't have to clean it.


I'm really likin these Mini ITX factor builds right now. Looks way good A little hotter never hurt anything.


----------



## Car17

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ncase-m1-prototype-a-mini-itx-case/x/2427997

This will probably be my next Mini ITX watercooled build. I would stick a dual 140mm Rad up top.
plus the dual 120mm inside.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> I've been reading a lot in this thread and on my way of building my own watercooled PC.
> 
> I have a 3D drawing now of what I'd like it to be like and I'm generally quite pleased, however I'm concerned about the negative pressure in the case when the big 180mm fan would kick in as well.
> 
> 
> Got my own thread here: PowerMac G5 build
> 
> Hope to hear everyone's thoughts on this, thanks!


MASSIVE props on using an old G5 case, one of the nicest most minimal design cases ever! Going to follow your build log closely


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> I've been reading a lot in this thread and on my way of building my own watercooled PC.
> 
> I have a 3D drawing now of what I'd like it to be like and I'm generally quite pleased, however I'm concerned about the negative pressure in the case when the big 180mm fan would kick in as well.
> 
> 
> Got my own thread here: PowerMac G5 build
> 
> Hope to hear everyone's thoughts on this, thanks!


Take a look at my build log, I am currently working on a G5 mod as well. Should be of help!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Anyone who can google better than me? :\
> Im looking for perfomance differences on the Alphacool UT60-series radiators, 1 fan vs 2 fans(push/pull).


You needed to include "Martin's Liquid Lab" at the beginning on that Google expedition - try it and you'll be good to go.







There are a few other sites that have reviews of the UT60 but that's a good place to start. As someone who has a couple of them I can tell you from experience that unless you're going to run your fans <800RPM or you're cooling more than CPU+2 GPUS (in my case 7970's) that the difference is going to be around 1C to your delta... so in other words, it's basically an aesthetic choice. If you're going to run your fans really slow like 600-800RPM in the interest of silence, then I would still say it's definitely unnecessary - but at those speeds the push-pull config will probably improve the delta by closer to 3C because they are pretty thick rads and start out performing their thinner brothers (like the ST30 and XT45) only after the fans hit 1000RPM. However, my two UT60's keep my delta at no more than 8C while benching and 5C under normal gaming and desktop use - and I have them push only with the fans reduced to ~900RPM.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> You needed to include "Martin's Liquid Lab" at the beginning on that Google expedition - try it and you'll be good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few other sites that have reviews of the UT60 but that's a good place to start. As someone who has a couple of them I can tell you from experience that unless you're going to run your fans <800RPM or you're cooling more than CPU+2 GPUS (in my case 7970's) that the difference is going to be around 1C to your delta... so in other words, it's basically an aesthetic choice. If you're going to run your fans really slow like 600-800RPM in the interest of silence, then I would still say it's definitely unnecessary - but at those speeds the push-pull config will probably improve the delta by closer to 3C because they are pretty thick rads and start out performing their thinner brothers (like the ST30 and XT45) only after the fans hit 1000RPM. However, my two UT60's keep my delta at no more than 8C while benching and 5C under normal gaming and desktop use - and I have them push only with the fans reduced to ~900RPM.


any suggestions / concerns on using push/pull with different fans?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> any suggestions / concerns on using push/pull with different fans?


Well my gut says "don't do it" but my brain says "air is air so as long as the static pressures of the two fans are similar or balanced via fan controller - it doesn't matter at all". You can take that with a grain of salt however - because my brain does some silly things now and then.









EDIT:
I guess the most obvious response would be - as long as you have the fans pointed in the right directions (don't laugh too quickly - I've had at least two senior moments in this regard) and the 'pull' fans are at least as competent as the 'push' side - then the absolute worst possible outcome is that you don't get any better performance... every other possible outcome is just gravy at that point.


----------



## Car17

For all the watercoolers what would your *Idle temp be for the CPU*, and the *max temp while gaming*. And could you please provide a Ambient as well.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Idle : *27'C-30'C*

Load 100% (prime95): *64'C*

While Gaming: *47'C*

Frequency: *4.6 Ghz*

(With C1E and Speedstep for idle )


----------



## Hokies83

hey gents been lazy finishing my build...

all i really have left is wire mangt and few odds and ends.. but cannot pull myself away from Halo long enough to finish lol...

where im at atm..

Keep getting micro bubbles in my top res.. i stick a zip tie in there and keep removing them but they come back... kinda has me scratching my head atm.

Onlything i can think of is my mcp 35x is turned all the way up causing turbulence somewhere as i have no leaks.

That there is what i call clean if u got 3 things in the case and call it clean then meh yeah that is easy bro..

Try the Ubber large amount of stuff i have.. it takes 10 hrs to get it looking clean lol.
Ignore the black wires hanging down those are leds and attach to the top of the case which i have off atm lol.


LoL do not take those clean 8 pin plugs for granted... Anybody who has worked with these knows there a pita..

I spent 1 1/2 hrs getting them looking perfect like that.. braid by braid... so i would not have to use ugly zip ties on them...
I got them all to perfect lengh held in place on the back of the MB tray with 20LB test tape XD


----------



## KaRLiToS

Nice build, that is extreme CPU cooling









I think you need to let your loop some time for the air bubles to vanish. So many rads


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> For all the watercoolers what would your *Idle temp be for the CPU*, and the *max temp while gaming*. And could you please provide a Ambient as well.


3570K @ 4.7GHz/1.4V (my crappy chip)
Idle (1.6GHz) is ~27C
Max Gaming is ~56C
Max Intel Burn Testing 10Min is ~78C (hottest core - coolest core is 64C and yes, I need to de-lid that sucker)

Ambient is usually around ~24C


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Well my gut says "don't do it" but my brain says "air is air so as long as the static pressures of the two fans are similar or balanced via fan controller - it doesn't matter at all". You can take that with a grain of salt however - because my brain does some silly things now and then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> I guess the most obvious response would be - as long as you have the fans pointed in the right directions (don't laugh too quickly - I've had at least two senior moments in this regard) and the 'pull' fans are at least as competent as the 'push' side - then the absolute worst possible outcome is that you don't get any better performance... every other possible outcome is just gravy at that point.


...and my wallet screams:"What's wrong with the Kuhler 920????"









the main goal behind this is mainly to use LED fans on the push side (since it would be a front rad) and non LED on the back. (to prevent unwanted lighting in the case interior). the problem is that if going non-LED fans it usually comes down to either GT's or Corsair's SP's (since why not go on something good for a change) and front LED would be weaker (probably NZXT FZ fans or Bitfenix or something else) and i guess the difference in pressure of the fans could affect performance and maybe noise too.

The main question is, which should me the more important/dominant fan? the push or the pull? (and noise consequences of using such a setup)

btw, don't even start on the silly things my brain does sometimes. (hint: one of them ends up spending a lot of money for marginal and barely necessary things that aren't important just to boast my e peen and stare hours and my rig







)


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Nice build, that is extreme CPU cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you need to let your loop some time for the air bubles to vanish. So many rads


Been a week lol.

Id have blocks on the gpus but i can only use uni blocks or sale them and get something else and did not wanna go thru the hassle..

Ill just wait for HD 8xxx or Gtx 7xx.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> ...and my wallet screams:"What's wrong with the Kuhler 920????"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the main goal behind this is mainly to use LED fans on the push side (since it would be a front rad) and non LED on the back. (to prevent unwanted lighting in the case interior). the problem is that if going non-LED fans it usually comes down to either GT's or Corsair's SP's (since why not go on something good for a change) and front LED would be weaker (probably NZXT FZ fans or Bitfenix or something else) and i guess the difference in pressure of the fans could affect performance and maybe noise too.
> 
> The main question is, which should me the more important/dominant fan? the push or the pull? (and noise consequences of using such a setup)
> 
> btw, don't even start on the silly things my brain does sometimes. (hint: one of them ends up spending a lot of money for marginal and barely necessary things that aren't important just to boast my e peen and stare hours and my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


why not takin' Bitfenix with and without LEDs? except lihgting and colour thy should be pretty much the same.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Anyone who can google better than me? :\
> Im looking for perfomance differences on the Alphacool UT60-series radiators, 1 fan vs 2 fans(push/pull).


Not sure if someone saw this


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Anyone who can google better than me? :\
> Im looking for perfomance differences on the Alphacool UT60-series radiators, 1 fan vs 2 fans(push/pull).
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if someone saw this
Click to expand...

Yes and it was answered. Be sure to rep those who help you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Anyone who can google better than me? :\
> Im looking for perfomance differences on the Alphacool UT60-series radiators, 1 fan vs 2 fans(push/pull).
> 
> 
> 
> You needed to include "Martin's Liquid Lab" at the beginning on that Google expedition - try it and you'll be good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few other sites that have reviews of the UT60 but that's a good place to start. As someone who has a couple of them I can tell you from experience that unless you're going to run your fans <800RPM or you're cooling more than CPU+2 GPUS (in my case 7970's) that the difference is going to be around 1C to your delta... so in other words, it's basically an aesthetic choice. If you're going to run your fans really slow like 600-800RPM in the interest of silence, then I would still say it's definitely unnecessary - but at those speeds the push-pull config will probably improve the delta by closer to 3C because they are pretty thick rads and start out performing their thinner brothers (like the ST30 and XT45) only after the fans hit 1000RPM. However, my two UT60's keep my delta at no more than 8C while benching and 5C under normal gaming and desktop use - and I have them push only with the fans reduced to ~900RPM.
Click to expand...


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> why not takin' Bitfenix with and without LEDs? except lihgting and colour thy should be pretty much the same.


the problem that the idea works Only with a company that has the exact same fan series in LED and non LED, and it's almost only bitfenix.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> the problem that the idea works Only with a company that has the exact same fan series in LED and non LED, and it's almost only bitfenix.


Coolermaster makes R4's with and without LEDs


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> If you get a Silverstone air filter it should help. I would say set everything to intake and exhaust out the back and you shouldn't have a problem. It might run a little hotter having a lot of positive pressure but you wouldn't have to clean it.


At first I had the three eLoops planned under the 360 rad, however these eLoops apparently suck with any airfilter so the computer would transform into a vacuum cleaner (but hey, it's windows, it's supposed to suck








) That's why I reversed the setup one afternoon and I really liked the result because the radiator is exactly as thick as the bottom part of the case shielded where the PSU used to live. Gives a way cleaner look than anything I'd otherwise be able to accomplish. I also considered the AP-15's but I'm afraid the ball-bearing whine will make me throw the G5 out of the window. I'm pretty sensitive about those little bits of noise and when idling the PC should be dead silent, inaudible, that's why the AP182 will only kick in when needed (hence the aquaero)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> MASSIVE props on using an old G5 case, one of the nicest most minimal design cases ever! Going to follow your build log closely


My thought exactly haha! Already scored a G5 case in mint condition (when that ***** arrived I figured out I wouldn't be able to fit a 420 rad, bummer!







) but I will have to take my time on this project since financing the 3770 and 7970 will take a little time chewing on a stick xD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Take a look at my build log, I am currently working on a G5 mod as well. Should be of help!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Got it bookmarked! Will look at it another time when I haven't had this much beer








Looking at how others solved this will definitely help me a lot probably, it's a shame really that most of these G5's are actually dusting away somewhere in the attic.


----------



## mavisky

I did mine with Aerocool Shark Series 120mm. Static pressure and cfm are decent for my medium thickness radiiator. If it were thicker I'd probably have not used them but I figured why not since I had two of the led one's around already.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Coolermaster makes R4's with and without LEDs


i said Almost only Bitfenix. i know that there are companies that have similar line ups but they are quite few. (for red the best i've seen is Phobya. Black fans, red bladed fans And Red LED fans with a switch. also blue fans and the new eLoop red fans)

but what if i'd want the beautiful LED effect of the NZXT FZ fan in the front (push) and in the rear (pull i want a simple black fan? (NZXT offer a white bladed FZ non LED fan but sometimes it can ruin a theme. i know it's a bad example since you could not only go with different fans but also paint the blades, but the concept still remains)


----------



## nleksan

I would say that the UT60 benefits more than just 1C from Push-Pull fans, in fact I'd say it's closer to a good 20% improvement if done well. I am not using fans that are "weak" by any measure, either: Koolance 2600rpm 5.4mmH2O/106CFM monsters on both sides!

However, there are a few things you can do to maximize the benefits of a push-pull setup, in my experience....
- Use the same fans, as having faster fans on one side will reduce the life of the shorter fans if there is any excess of pressure/airflow by causing the slower fan to speed up past what its motor is rated for.
- Putting a shroud on the push fans, at least, specifically something like the Phobya 120/140x7mm Shroud/Decouplers, will reduce the noise a bit as well as help with temps a bit; if you are using shrouds on both sides, I would suggest using a thicker shroud on the Push side and a thinner one on the Pull side
- If not using shrouds, then something like the new XSPC 120/240/360 rad gaskets are an excellent investment, especially at only $2-3/ea; they seal the area between the radiator and fans, preventing the loss of static pressure via air escaping between the fans and the rad
- If using the fans to intake air from outside of the case (which, if your airflow is setup properly, shouldn't make a difference), USE FILTERS! Rads seem to love dust more than just about anything else in a computer, but keep in mind that you will be ADDING to the amount of static pressure needed for the fans! I'd say that if you add a fan filter, you should up your fans' static pressure (i.e. buy more powerful fans) by ~1-1.5mmH2O to be safe.

Slow fans and thick/high-density rads are NOT the only things that benefit from push-pull setups! Just be sure to do it properly, and you'll see a 15-30% gain over a single set of fans (the exact amount varies).


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> any suggestions / concerns on using push/pull with different fans?


I had this issue when I had (briefly) a Corsair H100. I had 2 x Phobya Nano 2G's from my previous build and wished to use them "push" with the H100 stock fans "pull". I asked advice on the Corsair forum and got pretty much roasted as they quoted "low SP of Phobya's versus stock fans creating imbalance of pressure" etc. Eventually I ploughed ahead and got idle temps of about 30 degrees.In the run up to my "proper" watercooling I removed the "push" Phobyas and replaced them with the stock fans and......the temperature on idle was just the same. If you don't have any existing LED fans I would go with Silverstone Air Penetrators or the new Phobya Eloop NB's if you can get them http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p15212_Phobya-NB-eLoop-1600rpm---Bionic-L-fter-3-Fach-Bundle--3xL-fterpaket-.html


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I had this issue when I had (briefly) a Corsair H100. I had 2 x Phobya Nano 2G's from my previous build and wished to use them "push" with the H100 stock fans "pull". I asked advice on the Corsair forum and got pretty much roasted as they quoted "low SP of Phobya's versus stock fans creating imbalance of pressure" etc. Eventually I ploughed ahead and got idle temps of about 30 degrees.In the run up to my "proper" watercooling I removed the "push" Phobyas and replaced them with the stock fans and......the temperature on idle was just the same. If you don't have any existing LED fans I would go with Silverstone Air Penetrators or the new Phobya Eloop NB's if you can get them http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p15212_Phobya-NB-eLoop-1600rpm---Bionic-L-fter-3-Fach-Bundle--3xL-fterpaket-.html


I'm by no means an expert, but having a total of four Silverstone Air Penetrators to my name, I will tell you they are exceptional intake fans...
But that is what they are meant to do; case intake. they aren't designed to either push INTO a rad or PULL out of one, they are made to channel a column of air from the cool room into the case body, per Silverstone's own design claims (and their customer QC responses).
I am sure they will not hurt anything, and will operate just fine, but they are not a "static pressure" type fan, they are a volume-centric design!

Hope I didn't upset the apple cart!

Thanks - T


----------



## Hokies83

A little preview...

System is not powered on i however powered on the led fan the pump and both res.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I'm by no means an expert, but having a total of four Silverstone Air Penetrators to my name, I will tell you they are exceptional intake fans...
> But that is what they are meant to do; case intake. they aren't designed to either push INTO a rad or PULL out of one, they are made to channel a column of air from the cool room into the case body, per Silverstone's own design claims (and their customer QC responses).
> I am sure they will not hurt anything, and will operate just fine, but they are not a "static pressure" type fan, they are a volume-centric design!
> 
> Hope I didn't upset the apple cart!
> 
> Thanks - T


No apple carts upset here!









However when I was installing the Corsair H100 I toyed with the idea of junking my Phobya's for the SAP's because the latter were so powerful. I'd be interested to hear from someone who has tried them as "push" fans?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> No apple carts upset here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However when I was installing the Corsair H100 I toyed with the idea of junking my Phobya's for the SAP's because the latter were so powerful. I'd be interested to hear from someone who has tried them as "push" fans?


Ok, I broke their rule and tried it at first...







I put them in pull on my radiator, then push, and maybe it's just me, but I have a feeling they are made to take unbroken air - meaning not passed through a radiator - only... call me crazy, but the flow seemed extremely weak.
I'll try to find old numbers for cooling to see if it really made a difference, but I was temp gunning too, so maybe I wrote it all down.









Thanks - T


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Yes and it was answered. Be sure to rep those who help you


Damned, how could i miss that? Is there a way to get a "warning" or something when someone quotes me?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> You needed to include "Martin's Liquid Lab" at the beginning on that Google expedition - try it and you'll be good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few other sites that have reviews of the UT60 but that's a good place to start. As someone who has a couple of them I can tell you from experience that unless you're going to run your fans <800RPM or you're cooling more than CPU+2 GPUS (in my case 7970's) that the difference is going to be around 1C to your delta... so in other words, it's basically an aesthetic choice. If you're going to run your fans really slow like 600-800RPM in the interest of silence, then I would still say it's definitely unnecessary - but at those speeds the push-pull config will probably improve the delta by closer to 3C because they are pretty thick rads and start out performing their thinner brothers (like the ST30 and XT45) only after the fans hit 1000RPM. However, my two UT60's keep my delta at no more than 8C while benching and 5C under normal gaming and desktop use - and I have them push only with the fans reduced to ~900RPM.


Nice! Diddnt see your post, sorry :\
Well, that makes my idea for 240+360 a possible idea!








Thanks for the info!


----------



## animal0307

Hey is my new CM trooper. Got a 420mm rad stuffed in middle behind all the drive bays. 240 in the top. Temps are good for now. 40C on GPU at 1050/1200/1.35v and CPU ~50C stock All while Folding. Sleeved the hoses for fun. Looks good if you ask me. I'm going to try OC'ing, aiming for 4.5ghz and then I'll post back with more temps.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I would say that the UT60 benefits more than just 1C from Push-Pull fans, in fact I'd say it's closer to a good 20% improvement if done well. I am not using fans that are "weak" by any measure, either: Koolance 2600rpm 5.4mmH2O/106CFM monsters on both sides!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> However, there are a few things you can do to maximize the benefits of a push-pull setup, in my experience....
> - Use the same fans, as having faster fans on one side will reduce the life of the shorter fans if there is any excess of pressure/airflow by causing the slower fan to speed up past what its motor is rated for.
> - Putting a shroud on the push fans, at least, specifically something like the Phobya 120/140x7mm Shroud/Decouplers, will reduce the noise a bit as well as help with temps a bit; if you are using shrouds on both sides, I would suggest using a thicker shroud on the Push side and a thinner one on the Pull side
> - If not using shrouds, then something like the new XSPC 120/240/360 rad gaskets are an excellent investment, especially at only $2-3/ea; they seal the area between the radiator and fans, preventing the loss of static pressure via air escaping between the fans and the rad
> - If using the fans to intake air from outside of the case (which, if your airflow is setup properly, shouldn't make a difference), USE FILTERS! Rads seem to love dust more than just about anything else in a computer, but keep in mind that you will be ADDING to the amount of static pressure needed for the fans! I'd say that if you add a fan filter, you should up your fans' static pressure (i.e. buy more powerful fans) by ~1-1.5mmH2O to be safe.
> 
> 
> Slow fans and thick/high-density rads are NOT the only things that benefit from push-pull setups! Just be sure to do it properly, and you'll see a 15-30% gain over a single set of fans (the exact amount varies).


Good points and yes I agree with all - however the difference in temps is fully dependent on the load placed on them. It was for that reason that I included my setup specs (at least the blocks) as well as my load and gaming deltas. Naturally, since the case I have is huge and I'm running two UT60 360's - my deltas are pretty low - however if you consider that in my testing I saw only 1C improvement - it actually confirms your statement almost exactly (since on a 5C delta, that is a 20% improvement - right in the middle of your range).









Additionally I found a greater improvement as the fan speeds were reduced (the 5C delta during gaming was with push only at 900RPM which I was able to achieve with push pull at 700RPM on each). The problems with such efficient cooling is that it doesn't seem that changes are as effective as they do on a system much closer to it's limits. In my case dropping my delta from 5C to 4C was a large percentage change - but a very small numerical one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> A little preview...


Is that a SP-BS41-LR I spy on the bookshelf?







Best low-budget speaker in a decade right there - although the new release is even better. Andrew is a genius.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Damned, how could i miss that? Is there a way to get a "warning" or something when someone quotes me?
> Nice! Diddnt see your post, sorry :\
> Well, that makes my idea for 240+360 a possible idea!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info!


No problems - this thread moves quickly - sometimes if you blink there are 3 more pages already queued up.







You should be fine cooling just about anything with those (unless you're going for a quad-GPU setup with an insane OC on both GPUs and CPU.







The thing I really like about the UT60's is how well they cool at lower fan speeds - while scaling fantastically (which Martin's testing bears out). Although not reaching their potential at my normal fan speeds - they are totally silent. I can hear my pump and raptor much more easily - and I can only hear them with my head against my case. So even though the thinner rads will do a little better at those slower speeds - at anything above 1000RPM the UT60s will really start to shine. I'm totally happy with my temps as they are right now - but I like the fact that if I got a set of AP15's and run them full or went push-pull with my AP13's - I can significantly increase performance for not too much money.


----------



## airplaneman

Are the Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings any good? They're a heck of a lot cheaper (only $6ea) than the Bitspower fittings at $9.00 a piece.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Good points and yes I agree with all - however the difference in temps is fully dependent on the load placed on them. It was for that reason that I included my setup specs (at least the blocks) as well as my load and gaming deltas. Naturally, since the case I have is huge and I'm running two UT60 360's - my deltas are pretty low - however if you consider that in my testing I saw only 1C improvement - it actually confirms your statement almost exactly (since on a 5C delta, that is a 20% improvement - right in the middle of your range).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally I found a greater improvement as the fan speeds were reduced (the 5C delta during gaming was with push only at 900RPM which I was able to achieve with push pull at 700RPM on each). The problems with such efficient cooling is that it doesn't seem that changes are as effective as they do on a system much closer to it's limits. In my case dropping my delta from 5C to 4C was a large percentage change - but a very small numerical one.
> *Is that a SP-BS41-LR I spy on the bookshelf?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best low-budget speaker in a decade right there - although the new release is even better. Andrew is a genius.*
> No problems - this thread moves quickly - sometimes if you blink there are 3 more pages already queued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be fine cooling just about anything with those (unless you're going for a quad-GPU setup with an insane OC on both GPUs and CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing I really like about the UT60's is how well they cool at lower fan speeds - while scaling fantastically (which Martin's testing bears out). Although not reaching their potential at my normal fan speeds - they are totally silent. I can hear my pump and raptor much more easily - and I can only hear them with my head against my case. So even though the thinner rads will do a little better at those slower speeds - at anything above 1000RPM the UT60s will really start to shine. I'm totally happy with my temps as they are right now - but I like the fact that if I got a set of AP15's and run them full or went push-pull with my AP13's - I can significantly increase performance for not too much money.


LoL i got a laugh how you notice my speakers but forgot to mention one of the most epic water cooled builds of the year lol


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Hey is my new CM trooper.


Your sleeved tubing looks amazing, planning on doing it to mine in my new build. What size tubing are you running?


----------



## G-WizZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> Are the Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings any good? They're a heck of a lot cheaper (only $6ea) than the Bitspower fittings at $9.00 a piece.


I use Swiftech compressions and no problems. The hexagonal base might pose an issue if you have a res or something with a round recessed area around a port. I had that problem with my res but I added an extra O-ring to the fitting to compensate.


----------



## nleksan

Love the sleeved tubing! Very classy!

QUESTION: What Sleeving is everyone using to sleeve their tubing? What would I use for 1/2x3/4" tubing, if I want a selection in terms of color?

I am having the darnedest time finding anything that would work that isn't TechFlex :/


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> LoL i got a laugh how you notice my speakers but forgot to mention one of the most epic water cooled builds of the year lol


Well, perhaps that has a little bit to do with priorities, and a lot to do with the fact that other than the res's I can't see anything of the actual build (well I can sort of make out the alphacool sticker on one of your Monsta's).


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Well, perhaps that has a little bit to do with priorities, and a lot to do with the fact that other than the res's I can't see anything of the actual build (well I can sort of make out the alphacool sticker on one of your Monsta's).


Quad monsta rads hidden in there lol.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> Are the Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings any good? They're a heck of a lot cheaper (only $6ea) than the Bitspower fittings at $9.00 a piece.


I really like my Swiftech compression fittings. They are easy to get tight, the trouble I have is getting them undone







I've scratched a lot of paint off of them lol.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ncase-m1-prototype-a-mini-itx-case/x/2427997
> 
> This will probably be my next Mini ITX watercooled build. I would stick a dual 140mm Rad up top.
> plus the dual 120mm inside.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is there room for that? I never understood how the rads fit in... I will be buying Compact Splash myself as I just love it! But I was wondering if anyone knew more about the crop circle less EK blocks? I was planning on going full ek crop circle build but now I dont know... I know their GPU will be off the circles but how about their CPU blocks?

(if you want some more info on compact splash [POLL] Who's Buying Compact Splash?)


----------



## ivoryg37

I just sold my first water loop since I had a bay reservoir and after looking through this thread I want a tube. What tube do you guys recommend for a fractal core 3 case? Also mcp35 or 655 pump? I want to get it done right this time


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Is there room for that? I never understood how the rads fit in... I will be buying Compact Splash myself as I just love it! But I was wondering if anyone knew more about the crop circle less EK blocks? I was planning on going full ek crop circle build but now I dont know... I know their GPU will be off the circles but how about their CPU blocks?
> 
> (if you want some more info on compact splash [POLL] Who's Buying Compact Splash?)


Yeah the Dims are just a tad bigger then the rad. I would buy rad supports and attach it to the top. The dual 140mm would fit perfectly.


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I just sold my first water loop since I had a bay reservoir and after looking through this thread I want a tube. What tube do you guys recommend for a fractal core 3 case? Also mcp35 or 655 pump? I want to get it done right this time


Any relabeled laing d5 variant, and reservoir is all on your eyeball there. Personally if i wanted a plane tube I'd get one that attaches directly to a pump top for my pump of choice. And for lighted installs, especially UV lighting, I'd go with a frozenQ res.


----------



## xintence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> You're fine. The reason why Aurora is a problem for even 24/7 use is because the pearls that give it that awesome look tend to settle in dead zones, which may adversely impact your cooling performance, as well as just end up making it look like normal pastel.


i had aurora it leaves this white past stuff in the bottom of your res and in the blocks and my block is clear acrlic so i didnt like that because you could see it and it looked like **** aslong as your system is on 24/7 your fine but i got ride of the aurora took ages to clean the system and i just went with new tubing and blue die


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Car17*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 Dell U2212HM 21.5 @ 3500x1920
> Dual Asus HD 6850
> AMD FX-8320
> 1 360mm, 1 400mm rad


SIR this is an exceptional build


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Good points and yes I agree with all - however the difference in temps is fully dependent on the load placed on them. It was for that reason that I included my setup specs (at least the blocks) as well as my load and gaming deltas. Naturally, since the case I have is huge and I'm running two UT60 360's - my deltas are pretty low - however if you consider that in my testing I saw only 1C improvement - it actually confirms your statement almost exactly (since on a 5C delta, that is a 20% improvement - right in the middle of your range).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally I found a greater improvement as the fan speeds were reduced (the 5C delta during gaming was with push only at 900RPM which I was able to achieve with push pull at 700RPM on each). The problems with such efficient cooling is that it doesn't seem that changes are as effective as they do on a system much closer to it's limits. In my case dropping my delta from 5C to 4C was a large percentage change - but a very small numerical one.
> *Is that a SP-BS41-LR I spy on the bookshelf?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best low-budget speaker in a decade right there - although the new release is even better. Andrew is a genius.*
> No problems - this thread moves quickly - sometimes if you blink there are 3 more pages already queued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be fine cooling just about anything with those (unless you're going for a quad-GPU setup with an insane OC on both GPUs and CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing I really like about the UT60's is how well they cool at lower fan speeds - while scaling fantastically (which Martin's testing bears out). Although not reaching their potential at my normal fan speeds - they are totally silent. I can hear my pump and raptor much more easily - and I can only hear them with my head against my case. So even though the thinner rads will do a little better at those slower speeds - at anything above 1000RPM the UT60s will really start to shine. I'm totally happy with my temps as they are right now - but I like the fact that if I got a set of AP15's and run them full or went push-pull with my AP13's - I can significantly increase performance for not too much money.
> 
> 
> 
> LoL i got a laugh how you notice my speakers but forgot to mention one of the most epic water cooled builds of the year lol
Click to expand...

When is the epic bit coming then?









Sticking 4 massive rads when it could easily been done with 2 just shows an epic waste of money.....

Nice speakers tho.


----------



## _REAPER_

Starting my new project of bending copper pipes thanks B NEG for the guide hopefully I dont waste a ***** LOAD of money trying this LOL...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Starting my new project of bending copper pipes thanks B NEG for the guide hopefully I dont waste a ***** LOAD of money trying this LOL...


Get it done man!

Honestly,take your time and you wont go wrong.


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> SIR this is an exceptional build


Well thank you good sir!!! I just finished the Mod for the top mesh. I will post pics late tonight.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When is the epic bit coming then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sticking 4 massive rads when it could easily been done with 2 just shows an epic waste of money.....
> 
> Nice speakers tho.


Can not make the guys using the avg Joe cases happy all the time









it is pure epic.









Sticking 1 rad a pump and a res and throwing some dye in there is child's play when you try to make everything work on a massive scale such as what i am doing it is nothing but Epic.

And there is alot more going on then just 4 massive rads..... but i guess u have to look a little harder for that.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When is the epic bit coming then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sticking 4 massive rads when it could easily been done with 2 just shows an epic waste of money.....
> 
> Nice speakers tho.


Gotta fill up that case and chase the <2c delta, assuming the pumps can keep up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When is the epic bit coming then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sticking 4 massive rads when it could easily been done with 2 just shows an epic waste of money.....
> 
> Nice speakers tho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can not make the guys using the avg Joe cases happy all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is pure epic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sticking 1 rad a pump and a res and throwing some dye in there is child's play when you try to make everything work on a massive scale such as what i am doing it is nothing but Epic.
Click to expand...

I do not have an 'average joe case',I looked at the MM but floppy panels dont do it for me,I also dont claim to have an 'epic' build,tho others have called it that.

All you are doing is the same as everyone else,you are not doing anything particularly new or 'epic'

All that for a 3770k and a pair of 680s.....at least put a rig in it worth all that cooling.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do not have an 'average joe case',I also dont claim to have an 'epic' build,tho others have called it that.
> 
> All you are doing is the same as everyone else,you are not doing anything particularly new or 'epic'


Nobody is doing anything like im doing... You do not have a clue dude and yes u have an Avg joe case









There is water cooling then there is water cooling on an Epic scale which is what i am doing.. i guess that is hard for u to understand...

And just to let you know Building on an Epic scale often requires an epic waste of money.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When is the epic bit coming then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sticking 4 massive rads when it could easily been done with 2 just shows an epic waste of money.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Can not make the guys using the avg Joe cases happy all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is pure epic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sticking 1 rad a pump and a res and throwing some dye in there is child's play when you try to make everything work on a massive scale such as what i am doing it is nothing but Epic.


I don't know if epic is really the right word though. I think overkill or extravagant is a better word for this. Nothing wrong with overkill at all, especially since this is OCN. Maybe we just have different definitions of epic. When I think of an epic build, I think of BNegs SR2, strens dual pc Caselabs build, and cpachris' BBBB. Something that requires loads of planning, modding, and countless hours of trivial work. All you're doing is "child's play" just on a larger scale. I'm not intending this to be a bash or anything else negative. You're build is crazy and over the top, I'll give you that, just not epic


----------



## Hokies83

Not a fan of an Sr2 build been done to much and it is dated tech..

My build took planing and is taking weeks to finish pure epicness.

if u think you can just slam 32 fans 4 massive rads and 3 huge res in a case with perfect cable manangement you are mistaken it has took alot of modding to do this it not cut and drylol.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Nobody is doing anything like im doing... You do not have a clue dude and yes u have an Avg joe case


Until you get into current gen extreme editions/ xeons, tri and 4 way sli, custom blocks, and sub 2c deltas "epic" isn't really a proper descriptor. TBH I haven't seen a truly epic build on here in quite a while. Most is just plug and play. I've thrown more money at my build than people spend on cars, but it's not even close. Epic implies something that is truly one of a kind in every way and out performs others. 3dmark hall of fame would also seemingly be a requirement.


----------



## Hokies83

Yah im not a fan of more cores and a slower IPC...

So i have always went for the fastest IPC i can get.

Ive had quad sli before and sold the other 2 680s i had...

However im in talks for a trade for 3 7950s with water blocks on them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Not a fan of an Sr2 build been done to much and it is dated tech..
> 
> My build took planing and is taking weeks to finish pure epicness.
> 
> if u think you can just slam 32 fans 4 massive rads and 3 huge res in a case with perfect cable manangement you are mistaken it has took alot of modding to do this it not cut and drylol.


Maybe the SR-2 is dated but it will smash your little 3770k into the dirt for what i use it for...BOINC,Rendering...anything multithreaded and it owns,single thread performance is not far behind 990x which is on par with most SB chips.

This rig is in the top 6 WPrime leaderboards btw.

Since when has a LD V8 been average? Such a foolish thing to say......


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe the SR-2 is dated but it will smash your little 3770k into the dirt for what i use it for...BOINC,Rendering...anything multithreaded and it owns,single thread performance is not far behind 990x which is on par with most SB chips.
> 
> This rig is in the top 6 WPrime leaderboards btw.


I could have one 3 times over if i wanted it.

Truth it is dated.. I could have a SB-E if i wanted it... i have no use for more then 8 threads... and always go for IPC

To be honest i build on no budget and can do what ever i want.. this time around i chose to do an Epic Over Kill water cool build filling a Mountain Mods Asension to the brim.. which to anyone who knows is a massive case that makes a 900D look like a 2 yearold.

Think 900D 4 inches taller now x 3 thicknes and u would have it.


----------



## _REAPER_

In everyone's mind their build is EPIC... It just depends on the amount of experience you have modding a case or doing those little extra things that make your rig jump out at people to make them feel like it is EPIC to them.

Oh well just my 2 cents on the matter but I would say that BNEG has given most in this thread sound advice on the builds we are putting together


----------



## Pawelr98

Finally I bought used Laing D5 for 250 slotys (83$ and new pump cost 500slotys







) and for now I will aim for heatkiller for my 6990. The other problem is that i can't fit 120mm rad at the back cause it's interfere with my 360mm tubings. But I'll try to rotate rad by 90° and check if i can fit it there.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe the SR-2 is dated but it will smash your little 3770k into the dirt for what i use it for...BOINC,Rendering...anything multithreaded and it owns,single thread performance is not far behind 990x which is on par with most SB chips.
> 
> This rig is in the top 6 WPrime leaderboards btw.
> 
> Since when has a LD V8 been average? Such a foolish thing to say......


in many circumstances the SR-2 is actually better than the sr-x since e5 xeons are completely locked. Only negative to the sr-2 is pcie 2.0 and the "low" ram limit.

Single threaded apps are really irrelevant. When is anything ever run single threaded? Games aren't even single threaded.

1155 boards also have the huge disadvantage of dual channel ram and lack of pci lanes making it impossible to even come close to high end.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe the SR-2 is dated but it will smash your little 3770k into the dirt for what i use it for...BOINC,Rendering...anything multithreaded and it owns,single thread performance is not far behind 990x which is on par with most SB chips.
> 
> This rig is in the top 6 WPrime leaderboards btw.
> 
> 
> 
> I could have one 3 times over if i wanted it.
> 
> Truth it is dated.. I could have a SB-E if i wanted it... i have no use for more then 8 threads... and always go for IPC
> 
> To be honest i build on no budget and can do what ever i want.. this time around i chose to do an Epic Over Kill water cool build filling a Mountain Mods Asension to the brim.. which to anyone who knows is a massive case that makes a 900D look like a 2 yearold.
> 
> Think 900D 4 inches taller now x 3 thicknes and u would have it.
Click to expand...

Im well aware of MM cases,floppy panels and cheaply made doesnt do it for me,I will stick with my 'average' Little Devil V8.
If money is no object then a CL case would of been a better purchase.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe the SR-2 is dated but it will smash your little 3770k into the dirt for what i use it for...BOINC,Rendering...anything multithreaded and it owns,single thread performance is not far behind 990x which is on par with most SB chips.
> 
> This rig is in the top 6 WPrime leaderboards btw.
> 
> Since when has a LD V8 been average? Such a foolish thing to say......
> 
> 
> 
> in many circumstances the SR-2 is actually better than the sr-x since e5 xeons are completely locked. Only negative to the sr-2 is pcie 2.0 and the "low" ram limit.
> 
> Single threaded apps are really irrelevant. When is anything ever run single threaded? Games aren't even single threaded.
> 
> 1155 boards also have the huge disadvantage of dual channel ram and lack of pci lanes making it impossible to even come close to high end.
Click to expand...

The SR 2 can take 96Gb but it knocks OC headroom out the window

You are very correct about the SR-X too,Intel hamstrung that board completely,you cant push the BCLK like previous gen....still gets 25pts in Cinebench tho,Coolmiester took a certain amount of pride showing me that.

The PCI-e 2 limitation doesnt really affect me tbh,The limits of PCI-e 2 hasnt really been reached,only the competitive benching guys would notice.


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Until you get into current gen extreme editions/ xeons, tri and 4 way sli, custom blocks, and sub 2c deltas "epic" isn't really a proper descriptor. TBH I haven't seen a truly epic build on here in quite a while. Most is just plug and play. I've thrown more money at my build than people spend on cars, but it's not even close. Epic implies something that is truly one of a kind in every way and out performs others. 3dmark hall of fame would also seemingly be a requirement.


Agreed.

My build S's a fat D when it comes to some of these other builds in here, but a 36770k, sli 680's and way more radiator than is needed doesn't blow my socks off and while a very nice build doesn't fit the definition of the term "epic" in the slightest.

Epic to me would be Soth's current build with Quad SLI Titans. We're talking a rig worth more than a lot of the cars people on this forum own. That would fit the definition of "Epic" in my mind.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Nobody is doing anything like im doing... You do not have a clue dude and yes u have an Avg joe case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is water cooling then there is water cooling on an Epic scale which is what i am doing.. i guess that is hard for u to understand...


LOOOOL. Little Devil is faaar better than MM. Also U think bneg's build wasn't planned, that stuffing a lot of rad in a case need lots of thought hahaha


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im well aware of MM cases,floppy panels and cheaply made doesnt do it for me,I will stick with my 'average' Little Devil V8.
> If money is no object then a CL case would of been a better purchase.


Side panels have a lil bend in them but are strong when there are mounted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> LOOOOL U really don't have a brain do you. Little Devil is faaar better than MM. Also U think bneg's build wasn't planned, that stuffing a lot of rad in a case need lots of thought hahaha


Yes it takes alot of planning to make it work.

Far as cases go that is your opinion looks like a big 900D on wheels to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> My build S's a fat D when it comes to some of these other builds in here, but a 36770k, sli 680's and way more radiator than is needed doesn't blow my socks off and while a very nice build doesn't fit the definition of the term "epic" in the slightest.
> 
> Epic to me would be Soth's current build with Quad SLI Titans. We're talking a rig worth more than a lot of the cars people on this forum own. That would fit the definition of "Epic" in my mind.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> LOOOOL U really don't have a brain do you. Little Devil is faaar better than MM. Also U think bneg's build wasn't planned, that stuffing a lot of rad in a case need lots of thought hahaha


I do not find quad SLI titans as epic.. that is the same deal with a bunch of rads vs to many Gpus.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

There's a reason I ditched my mountain mods case even after decking it out with mnpctech gear.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> My build S's a fat D when it comes to some of these other builds in here, but a 36770k, sli 680's and way more radiator than is needed doesn't blow my socks off and while a very nice build doesn't fit the definition of the term "epic" in the slightest.
> 
> Epic to me would be Soth's current build with Quad SLI Titans. We're talking a rig worth more than a lot of the cars people on this forum own. That would fit the definition of "Epic" in my mind.


It's the outcome, not necessarily the cost. Even at tdp I'm under a 2c delta. It's not hard to get there, it just costs $. Anyone with $1k to spend on radiators and $500 on fans can get there, but fitting it in a case and keeping it quiet is the hard part. The only reason I picked up 4 titans was to get back on the 3dmark leaderboards. Unless there is some true craftsmanship in the build it's just another build. I'm surprised people actually follow my log, tbh I'm just tossing **** together and praying it works out, at least that's how I felt with pressure drop and restriction.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I do not find quad SLI titans as epic.. that is the same deal with a bunch of rads vs to many Gpus.


if you can't get on benchmark leaderboards the rig isn't epic. Quad titans are a requirement for that as of last week.


----------



## driftingforlife

Hmm, I don't do a lot of planning. I think of it as I go along, like that idea I have for my V8 when I can finaly finish it.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

*Stop.*

Now. This isn't a pissing content between who has what, this is a thread for sharing pictures. Take it somewhere else.

For the record, I'd rather have a watercooled SR-2 rig, but that's just me, and the LD case is far from ordinary, as is the MM-A.

Now, get over it, and just appreciate what is posted.


----------



## Hokies83

But since my hard work and planing is not appreciated at all guess ill get it finished take it apart and part it out.









Guess i should get a prodigy slap 1 rad in it and the 3 fans it fits and be finished in 3 hrs instead of 2 weeks to be appreciated.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe the SR-2 is dated but it will smash your little 3770k into the dirt for what i use it for...BOINC,Rendering...anything multithreaded and it owns,single thread performance is not far behind 990x which is on par with most SB chips.
> 
> This rig is in the top 6 WPrime leaderboards btw.
> 
> 
> 
> I could have one 3 times over if i wanted it.
> 
> Truth it is dated.. I could have a SB-E if i wanted it... i have no use for more then 8 threads... and always go for IPC
> 
> To be honest i build on no budget and can do what ever i want.. this time around i chose to do an Epic Over Kill water cool build filling a Mountain Mods Asension to the brim.. which to anyone who knows is a massive case that makes a 900D look like a 2 yearold.
> 
> Think 900D 4 inches taller now x 3 thicknes and u would have it.
Click to expand...

Every time I log in I get to come and see you trying to defend your e-peen, its getting old. You regularly try and bring down other members rigs and pitch yours as being "epic" and more impressive than others. Why is that?

I personally think your rig is funny looking and quite a waste of money but to each their own. I'm sure many people think my build is ugly and not epic also, difference for me is I like it and don't really care if anyone else does lol.

Please try and act like a grown man in here please, I thought we gave up try to prove who has a bigger penis when we graduate high school.


----------



## vaporizer

this build is EPIC. all others only come in second.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> There's a reason I ditched my mountain mods case even after decking it out with mnpctech gear.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> My build S's a fat D when it comes to some of these other builds in here, but a 36770k, sli 680's and way more radiator than is needed doesn't blow my socks off and while a very nice build doesn't fit the definition of the term "epic" in the slightest.
> 
> Epic to me would be Soth's current build with Quad SLI Titans. We're talking a rig worth more than a lot of the cars people on this forum own. That would fit the definition of "Epic" in my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> It's the outcome, not necessarily the cost. Even at tdp I'm under a 2c delta. It's not hard to get there, it just costs $. Anyone with $1k to spend on radiators and $500 on fans can get there, but fitting it in a case and keeping it quiet is the hard part. The only reason I picked up 4 titans was to get back on the 3dmark leaderboards. Unless there is some true craftsmanship in the build it's just another build. *I'm surprised people actually follow my log, tbh I'm just tossing **** together and praying it works out*, at least that's how I felt with pressure drop and restriction.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I do not find quad SLI titans as epic.. that is the same deal with a bunch of rads vs to many Gpus.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> if you can't get on benchmark leaderboards the rig isn't epic. Quad titans are a requirement for that as of last week.
Click to expand...

I have followed your build for a while,its not a boring log by any means!

The word 'epic' is now banned from this thread.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Every time I log in I get to come and see you trying to defend your e-peen, its getting old. You regularly try and bring down other members rigs and pitch yours as being "epic" and more impressive than others. Why is that?
> 
> I personally think your rig is funny looking and quite a waste of money but to each their own. I'm sure many people think my build is ugly and not epic also, difference for me is I like it and don't really care if anyone else does lol.
> 
> Please try and act like a grown man in here please, I thought we gave up try to prove who has a bigger penis when we graduate high school.


Funny looking lmao? what is funny about it? Please tell me what looks funny.. these are comments i do need ask i asked for imput in my build log.

Only person i ever downed was somebody who i have a history with long before this thread.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have followed your build for a while,its not a boring log by any means!
> 
> *The word 'epic' is now banned from this thread.*


good thing i got my post in before yours B neg.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Side panels have a lil bend in them but are strong when there are mounted.
> Yes it takes alot of planning to make it work.
> 
> Far as cases go that is your *opinion* looks like a big 900D on wheels to me.
> 
> I do not find quad SLI titans as epic.. that is the same deal with a bunch of rads vs to many Gpus.


Opinion is they key word here. If other people have the opinion that you build doesn't fit the title of "epic" let them think that. Opinions are objective to each individual. The only person's opinion that truly matters is your own. If you think it's epic, then it's epic. If I don't think it's epic, then that's my opinion. Arguing about hardware or money spent won't change anyone's mind and is pointless to try to. Let's just zip up our pants and back to friendly conversation and post some pictures. No need for this to turn into another flame war


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Opinion is they key word here. If other people have the opinion that you build doesn't fit the title of "epic" let them think that. Opinions are objective to each individual. The only person's opinion that truly matters is your own. If you think it's epic, then it's epic. If I don't think it's epic, then that's my opinion. Arguing about hardware or money spent won't change anyone's mind and is pointless to try to. Let's just zip up our pants and back to friendly conversation and post some pictures


Couldn't have said it better myself.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

What would i do with 4 Titans........

Im nursing a semi just thinking about it.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What would i do with 4 Titans........
> 
> Im nursing a semi just thinking about it.


Sell 2? buy more rads?

Anywho please im asking this for real...

What looks funny about my build i asks for ppl to comment in my build log so i could address things like this...

From my side view of the case... You see 2 Frozen Q helix res.. a mb ram a block/ pump 2 gpus and the water lines and sides of 2 rads...

Perfect cable routing so i do not know what looks funny... so please advise so i can address it...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What would i do with 4 Titans........
> 
> Im nursing a semi just thinking about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sell 2? buy more rads?
> 
> Anywho please im asking this for real...
> 
> What looks funny about my build i asks for ppl to comment in my build log so i could address things like this...
> 
> From my side view of the case... You see 2 Frozen Q helix res.. a mb ram a block/ pump 2 gpus and the water lines and sides of 2 rads...
> 
> Perfect cable routing so i do not know what looks funny... so please advise so i can address it...
Click to expand...

Lets start with why do you need 3 res?
Link is broken to your log.

I dont need to buy more rads,the 3 RX 480's i already have are more than enough,I am moving to a dual loop setup tho.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Sell 2? buy more rads?
> 
> Anywho please im asking this for real...
> 
> What looks funny about my build i asks for ppl to comment in my build log so i could address things like this...
> 
> From my side view of the case... You see 2 Frozen Q helix res.. a mb ram a block/ pump 2 gpus and the water lines and sides of 2 rads...
> 
> Perfect cable routing so i do not know what looks funny... so please advise so i can address it...


Personally, without anyone getting defensive, I think the 2 FrozenQ's is too much. It distracts from the rest of the build. I think the 400 FrozenQ and bay res would have been plenty.
PS. The build log in your link seems to be broken. Keep getting "thread does not exist"


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lets start with why do you need 3 res?
> Link is broken to your log.
> 
> I dont need to buy more rads,the 3 RX 480's i already have are more than enough,I am moving to a dual loop setup tho.


No need for 3 res.. it is plan and simple looks...

Frozen Q Helix res look amazing.

Link is down for a bit had some things go on with staff so it is down till Enterprise restores it.

But here is pic's

Looks better in person imo.

56k warning on the spoiler.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




















*Update 1/25/2013*





*Update 1/26/2013*



*Update 2/1/2013*



*Update 2/2/2013*




*Update 2/15/2013*














Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Personally, without anyone getting defensive, I think the 2 FrozenQ's is too much. It distracts from the rest of the build. I think the 400 FrozenQ and bay res would have been plenty.
> PS. The build log in your link seems to be broken. Keep getting "thread does not exist"


But then id have a big ugly empty void above the mb.

Also that top res feeds the pump and is how i fill and get the air out of the loop.
It is on 3 way 90s and i can flip it up to fill / maintain the loop then put it back down when im done.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You are powering all that with 1 AD unit?
I would of gone with a least 2 D5 strong pumps at 24v.

Enterprise pulled it down? Why would he do that?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are powering all that with 1 AD unit?
> I would of gone with a least 2 D5 strong pumps at 24v.
> 
> Enterprise pulled it down? Why would he do that?


I cannot talk about why it was pulled down









Shockingly the mcp 35X and full blast is enough where the water in the pump feed res is shooting side ways in it.

I have no water blocks on gpus so i have no restriction really the Monsta rads are great flowing rads.


----------



## Canis-X

...yeah but, my dad can beat up your dad!!!


----------



## mavisky

Link to the Quad Titan build I mentioned early - custom fab work abounds in this thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1312505/build-log-project-overkill-quad-geforce-titans/0_100


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got links or pics for these builds?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got links or pics for these builds?


Just afew i have not took pics of every build i have done.




This was another loop i made in a case that cooled the X 58 build which was in another case.



I do not have any pics of after i cleaned it up but this is a Rampage III Extreme with i7 930 back in 2009ish..


----------



## dmanstasiu

Hokies your parts are fine, but your build lacks the finesse, aesthetic harmony, careful planning and beautiful details in other peoples' builds.

We're comparing an 800bhp supra to a pagani zonda ... they might come out even on a drag strip or track, but one has had a lot more effort, time, dedication, talent and skill go into it, to make it all-around more pleasing.

As long as you're satisfied with your 2JZ swapped Supra, then that's all you need to worry about.

PS. I fit a monsta rad in my prodigy.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Hokies your parts are fine, but your build lacks the finesse, aesthetic harmony, careful planning and beautiful details in other peoples' builds.
> 
> We're comparing an 800bhp supra to a pagani zonda ... they might come out even on a drag strip or track, but one has had a lot more effort, time, dedication, talent and skill go into it, to make it all-around more pleasing.
> 
> As long as you're satisfied with your 2JZ swapped Supra, then that's all you need to worry about.
> 
> PS. I fit a monsta rad in my prodigy.


I have a month or two into planning.

Ive put tons of planning and skill to make it beautiful.

I guess u have to build on this scale to understand.

Nobody takes into account when u have all this stuff it all has wires which have to be dealt with.

You see no wires no Psu no cables no nothing.. it took alot of planning and meaurements to get everything to fit perfectly.

I have even " waxxed" the case.

I think the judgements are not knowing because the build is not done... i think alot of ppl will change there minds when it is done.


----------



## PinzaC55

Hi guys , got nothing to argue about so I will just post a picture..
Although my GPU isn't watercooled I can't stand exposed PCB's so I took a chance and bought the EK backplate, which is advertised as "not a stand alone item". Lo and behold when I got it, the screws supplied were M3 x 7 whereas the stock GTX 690 screws are M2.5 x 4! I had a hell of a job finding some long M2.5 screws but somebody had a little bag of 6 on Ebay so I got them and shortened them and it all went together with no problem. The resulting tidy up is nothing short of - "epic"


----------



## Shoggy

The aquagrafx series is history...









The new *kryographics* series features wider openings at the side and a revised connection terminal to optimize the flow rate. The delta between GPU and water temperature was 10°C in our tests with furmark.

In the photo you see one of four variants. The other three are: same look but nickel plated copper and two blocks with a Plexiglas cover surrounded by a stainless steel frame, also available as pure copper or nickel plated. These variants will be available a bit later so I have no photos yet.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> People on other threads say nice things because people are generally respectful. People on this thread have said nice things about your build. When you start demanding everyone recognizes you for building the nicest rig on earth, those same people are going to turn sour on you. You bought an enormous case, stuffed as many expensive parts into it as you could, most of which are completely unnecessary, and you want everyone to praise it. Just because you spent more money on it, doesnt make it aesthetically pleasing. You wanted feedback, everyone has given you the same feedback, yet you still keep on going. You aren't going to convince us, and we arent going to convince you, *so lets all just move on with our day.*


QFT....moAr pics!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> People on other threads say nice things because people are generally respectful. People on this thread have said nice things about your build. When you start demanding everyone recognizes you for building the nicest rig on earth, those same people are going to turn sour on you. You bought an enormous case, stuffed as many expensive parts into it as you could, most of which are completely unnecessary, and you want everyone to praise it. Just because you spent more money on it, doesnt make it aesthetically pleasing. You wanted feedback, everyone has given you the same feedback, yet you still keep on going. You aren't going to convince us, and we arent going to convince you, so lets all just move on with our day.


It's not even done yet?

Yes i have the most expensive of everything in it..

But the samething can be said about having quad 670s vs quad titans.

And you saying me trying to make ppl think it is the greatest thing on earth is putting words into my mouth cause i never said that and in gods name do not think that at all ive seen a hell of alot better...

Just not lately.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I have a month or two into planning.
> 
> Ive put tons of planning and skill to make it beautiful.
> 
> I gues u have to build on this scale to understand.
> 
> 
> 
> People on other threads say nice things because people are generally respectful. People on this thread have said nice things about your build. When you start demanding everyone recognizes you for building the nicest rig on earth, those same people are going to turn sour on you. You bought an enormous case, stuffed as many expensive parts into it as you could, most of which are completely unnecessary, and you want everyone to praise it. Just because you spent more money on it, doesnt make it aesthetically pleasing. You wanted feedback, everyone has given you the same feedback, yet you still keep on going. You aren't going to convince us, and we arent going to convince you, so lets all just move on with our day.
Click to expand...

There is nothing wrong with being critical about builds,personally i just dont get IT Divas stretched build but im a big fan of her homebrew engineering and professional attitude,we agree on most of the tech details,just not the aesthetics.
She knows this and respects my view as i respect hers.

She doesnt demand anything,thats the key here.

Now its time to move on......MOAR PICS!

Welcome to my Man cave.












One day i will paint the MDF......and put a glass mug rest for me tea


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> QFT....moAr pics!


I wish there were more Trooper builds. I want to put my CPU back on water, but I cant decide on a good way to make it pretty. B NEG's pipe builds have made me very interested in trying that, but from what I have seen, pipe isnt cheap.


----------



## superericla

I'm liking the look of that new water block.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is nothing wrong with being critical about builds,personally i just dont get IT Divas stretched build but im a big fan of her homebrew engineering and professional attitude,we agree on most of the tech details,just not the aesthetics.
> She knows this and respects my view as i respect hers.
> 
> She doesnt demand anything,thats the key here.
> 
> Now its time to move on......MOAR PICS!
> 
> Welcome to my Man cave.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One day i will paint the MDF......and put a glass mug rest for me tea


Nice 400mm BP res just chillen.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aquagrafx series is history...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new *kryographics* series features wider openings at the side and a revised connection terminal to optimize the flow rate. The delta between GPU and water temperature was 10°C in our tests with furmark.
> 
> In the photo you see one of four variants. The other three are: same look but nickel plated copper and two blocks with a Plexiglas cover surrounded by a stainless steel frame, also available as pure copper or nickel plated. These variants will be available a bit later so I have no photos yet.


damn if only you launched this a week ago


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is nothing wrong with being critical about builds,personally i just dont get IT Divas stretched build but im a big fan of her homebrew engineering and professional attitude,we agree on most of the tech details,just not the aesthetics.
> She knows this and respects my view as i respect hers.
> 
> She doesnt demand anything,thats the key here.
> 
> Now its time to move on......MOAR PICS!
> 
> Welcome to my Man cave.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One day i will paint the MDF......and put a glass mug rest for me tea
> 
> 
> 
> Nice 400mm BP res just chillen.
Click to expand...

Thats going in MilSpec II,she is a peach,easily one of the best manufactured res out there right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aquagrafx series is history...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new *kryographics* series features wider openings at the side and a revised connection terminal to optimize the flow rate. The delta between GPU and water temperature was 10°C in our tests with furmark.
> 
> In the photo you see one of four variants. The other three are: same look but nickel plated copper and two blocks with a Plexiglas cover surrounded by a stainless steel frame, also available as pure copper or nickel plated. These variants will be available a bit later so I have no photos yet.


Damn you Shoggy! Maybe in my next build......

But probably not a Titan block.

I wish i could spring for Titans.

Im not bitter.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats going in MilSpec II,she is a peach,easily one of the best manufactured res out there right now.
> Damn you Shoggy! Maybe in my next build......


I had just pulled the trigger on the EK titan block should be here on the 4th. But that block looks good.


----------



## Crooksy

Has anyone tested the difference between the jet plates that come with the EK supremacy?


----------



## hammerforged

Speaking of Aqua Computer here are some pics from my build log. LINK







Hopefully B approves of the copper pipe. One of the main reasons I did it.


----------



## dmanstasiu

1- Is that the stock fan controller?That matte black is glorious

2- Copper piping is freaking splendiferous. god damn that is beautiful man, well done

3- Did you drill custom mounting holes for the EK res attachment?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Speaking of Aqua Computer here are some pics from my build log. LINK
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully B approves of the copper pipe. One of the main reasons I did it.


I'm no copper bender...but I certainly approve.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Speaking of Aqua Computer here are some pics from my build log. LINK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully B approves of the copper pipe. One of the main reasons I did it.






Looks great!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Speaking of Aqua Computer here are some pics from my build log. LINK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully B approves of the copper pipe. One of the main reasons I did it.


Porn.

That is all.

Well,that and I like the way you stacked the pumps and went for a paint finish on the tubing....not seen that yet so its a first.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> 1- Is that the stock fan controller?That matte black is glorious
> 
> 2- Copper piping is freaking splendiferous. god damn that is beautiful man, well done
> 
> 3- Did you drill custom mounting holes for the EK res attachment?


The fan controller is actually and Lamptron FC8 that I sanded the finish on and painted over.



No EK parts here







ha, I kid. But no that is a Koolance pump/res combo Link. Pretty nice combination unit actually. It currently has the 60mm diameter res in there but they offer a 80mm diameter one as well. Its mounted to an attachment plate offered by Case Labs. I was worried about rigidity of the mount but it is very stout.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I'm no copper bender...but I certainly approve.


Maybe you should start







Thank ya!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Looks great!


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Porn.
> 
> That is all.
> 
> Well,that and I like the way you stacked the pumps and went for a paint finish on the tubing....not seen that yet so its a first.


Thanks B. Nice to hear that from such and excellent builder


----------



## dmanstasiu

Ah, it looks very similar. My EK res has some really funky mounting sizes, I think I'm gona have to drill new holes for it


----------



## superericla

Does anyone know if a drop-in mount is required with CaseLab cases to use the extended top?


----------



## EnticingSausage

Yeah it is


----------



## superericla

Is there a way to upgrade from a standard radiator mount to a drop-in mount?


----------



## EnticingSausage

Not unless you ordered a new top panel but I'm guessing that would be pretty expensive in comparison to ordering the drop in mount to begin with. I'm sure Jim or one of the guys will be able to help anyway


----------



## superericla

Good to know. I was trying to decide between a pedestal or an extended top. The most a pedestal could add in radiator space past my current setup is another 420mm/480mm radiator, so I was looking at my options.


----------



## EnticingSausage

Personally I'd go pedestal, extended tops just look a bit funky to me, plus you get a lot more flexabilty. Build looks sweet too


----------



## superericla

Of course, at the rate I'm going I'll eventually have a case taller than mandrix if I keep adding pedestals without upgrading the case.


----------



## Hokies83

Up and running not quite done yet tho.

My cam does not do it justice..


----------



## nleksan

WOW, those painted copper pipes look gorgeous! It seems to me that everyone is starting to figure out how to best match the finish of their copper pipes to their build, and you, sir, pulled it off with aplomb!

Just a side note: My build is most certainly NOT "epic"! Money spent =/= awesomeness of build, end of story. In fact, the builds that I am FAR AND AWAY the most impressed with, and which are to me the most "epic", are those which are done by people on a limited budget and/or who set out to do something completely different from everyone else. While I am not a fan of the aesthetics of IT Diva's "Stretched Limo Phantom" build, there is NO doubt that she is one of the most talented case modders on this forum.
But really, it's the people who have spent months, half a year, or more saving up to build a rig of their dreams that inspire me. When you know that every penny spent has been analyzed, every facet of the machine scrutinized, and you can practically see the person swelling with pride as they show off their masterpiece, then it doesn't matter WHAT is inside of the case, or what the case is, or how much they spent... IT'S EPIC! Same goes for those talented craftsmen (and women) who can take nothing but a vision, a few sketches on a napkin, and with a few trips to the hardware store turn their vision into a reality by creating their own case. There is no better way to set a build apart than to have a ONE OF A KIND case, one that you lost blood, sweat, and tears over (but hopefully no appendages!), because you have something that will always be uniquely yours.
I could care less if a build has an SR-2 with a pair of 10-core Xeon's and 4x GeForce Titans inside a CaseLabs TH10 tricked out with $750 in CL accessories, or if it is rocking an Extreme4 with a 3570K, 8GB of Samsung RAM, and a 560Ti all crammed into a mid-tower.... If the person who built it is happy, then I am happy!

I know how it feels to come on here and look through some of these builds... I think that many of us are almost masochists in that way







However, you should be **** PROUD of your build, regardless of the bill at the end of the month! Make something, enjoy making it, and make it uniquely yours...then step back, have a beer, and smile like a giddy schoolgirl because YOU JUST DID SOMETHING AWESOME!

(FWIW, I have recently fallen in love with the Little Devil PC-V8 and PC-V7 cases, not to mention their BEAUTIFUL test bench! Doesn't hurt that they're made in my home country of Slovenia







I've been saving for the better part of a year to get a CaseLabs TH10 with all the trimmings, but I am SERIOUSLY considering a Little Devil case, depending on how my build continues to grow. I have worked with Mountain Mods, and while I understand the appeal, they simply don't appeal to me; I just think that all-acrylic/plexiglass cases look...unfinished, but that's my opinion)

Build a machine that you are proud of, and be happy with that. Any comments about how awesome it is should be taken as "icing", and not the cake itself.

AND NOW IT'S PICTURE TIME:


















EDIT: And yes, with the exception of the 3 pictures taken on my black desk, those are all different fittings, not multiple pictures of the same ones :O I went a bit overboard (pun intended)


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> *Stop.*
> 
> Now. This isn't a pissing content between who has what, this is a thread for sharing pictures. Take it somewhere else.
> 
> For the record, I'd rather have a watercooled SR-2 rig, but that's just me, and the LD case is far from ordinary, as is the MM-A.
> 
> Now, get over it, and just appreciate what is posted.











EPIC!


----------



## wermad

What's all this...



Anyways, was packing up a Koolance block and didn't realize how light they are. The EK 590 blocks were heavy bastards and this 690 one is actually lighter then the DD 580 pigs. Guess I really won't need a bling backplate


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's all this...
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, was packing up a Koolance block and didn't realize how light they are. The EK 590 blocks were heavy bastards and this 690 one is actually lighter then the DD 580 pigs. Guess I really won't need a bling backplate


What?!?
No Wer-mods backplates?

I feel cheated.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What?!?
> No Wer-mods backplates?
> 
> I feel cheated.


EVGA is out of stock everywhere and so is HK. EK......still not convinced on the csq design. I found one evga but its priced right at new. Seller won't budge (he knows how to play the demand card).

Frozen has the HK blocks in backorder. Might just go with those for now. Still wouldn't match the nickel plating of the Koolance blocks.

edit: here's a teaser the seller sent me:



Should arrive tomorrow along with my three dell 1200 ips


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I do not find quad SLI titans as epic.. _that is the same deal with a bunch of rads_ vs to many Gpus.


EDITED - Won't stir up more. Just thought that was hilarious.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What?!?
> No Wer-mods backplates?
> 
> I feel cheated.
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA is out of stock everywhere and so is HK. EK......still not convinced on the csq design. I found one evga but its priced right at new. Seller won't budge (he knows how to play the demand card).
> 
> Frozen has the HK blocks in backorder. Might just go with those for now. Still wouldn't match the nickel plating of the Koolance blocks.
> 
> edit: here's a teaser the seller sent me:
> 
> 
> 
> Should arrive tomorrow along with my three dell 1200 ips
Click to expand...

I thought you had come to the darkside and just made them now?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> EDITED - Won't stir up more. Just thought that was hilarious.


55c 5.1ghz 1.53v

and i found what u said quite hilarious before u edited it.

It is a show piece if that is so hard to understand..

And i get love for it everywhere but here .. but if i posted a nice clean raystorm kit with some dye in it id get mad love


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I thought you had come to the darkside and just made them now?


I really wouldn't have the metal working skills to pull something off. To avoid cutting myself and a lot of swearing, I'll just pluck the money down for two backplates later on. The evga ones will be a nice match to cards and blocks.

Are you jumping on the Titan bandwagon?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> 55c 5.1ghz 1.53v
> 
> and i found what u said quite hilarious before u edited it.
> 
> It is a show piece if that is so hard to understand..
> 
> And i get love for it everywhere but here .. but if i posted a nice clean raystorm kit with some dye in it id get mad love


Ummm OK... not trying to feed your obvious trolling, but I find that as likely as I find it epic... but as long as YOU'RE happy with it - that's all that matters.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Ummm OK... not trying to feed your obvious trolling, but I find that as likely as I find it epic... but as long as YOU'RE happy with it - that's all that matters.


Hmm i fail to see where i trolled anywhere?

You do know on OCN that calling somebody a troll is trolling or rude / disrespectful posting which all is subject to a warning / infraction just depends on the mod.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I thought you had come to the darkside and just made them now?
> 
> 
> 
> I really wouldn't have the metal working skills to pull something off. To avoid cutting myself and a lot of swearing, I'll just pluck the money down for two backplates later on. The evga ones will be a nice match to cards and blocks.
> 
> Are you jumping on the Titan bandwagon?
Click to expand...

Not this time,if I folded instead of BOINCd then maybe...3 670s is more than enough for my gaming,1440p single monitor is not requiring Titan.
I might buy one for MilSpec II if nVidia see some sense with the pricing....


----------



## wermad

Let's get back to discussing water cooling but in a lighter tone shall we


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not this time,if I folded instead of BOINCd then maybe...3 670s is more than enough for my gaming,1440p single monitor is not requiring Titan.
> I might buy one for MilSpec II if nVidia see some sense with the pricing....


IM trying to get a guy over on [H} to trade me 3 7950s with koolance blocks for my 2 680 4gbs...

I think it is a pretty fair deal.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not this time,if I folded instead of BOINCd then maybe...3 670s is more than enough for my gaming,1440p single monitor is not requiring Titan.
> I might buy one for MilSpec II if nVidia see some sense with the pricing....


Yeah, Nvidia is pricing us mere mortals out of Titan's grasp









I'm quite happy with my 690 purchase, just gonna see how they treat me in Surround








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> IM trying to get a guy over on [H} to trade me 3 7950s with koolance blocks for my 2 680 4gbs...
> 
> I think it is a pretty fair deal.


Sounds like a plan







Finally, get em gpu(s) on water. Did you buy the uni blocks for the Keplers btw?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, Nvidia is pricing us mere mortals out of Titan's grasp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm quite happy with my 690 purchase, just gonna see how they treat me in Surround
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, get em gpu(s) on water. Did you buy the uni blocks for the Keplers btw?


No i do not want to use passive Vram heatsinks =/

And do not want to hassle with selling and buying again as these are good gpus and only barely touch 60c full load.


----------



## hammerforged

Not to get too off topic but yeah the Titan pricing killed it for me. That and the 108% power target. I think a lot of users overclocking will be quite surprised how much that will limit them. It would be the ultimate water cooler card but those two factors made me pass it up. Step in the right direction though!


----------



## MCCSolutions

JERRY!







JERRY!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Not to get too off topic but yeah the Titan pricing killed it for me. That and the 108% power target. I think a lot of users overclocking will be quite surprised how much that will limit them. It would be the ultimate water cooler card but those two factors made me pass it up. Step in the right direction though!


From what I have heard its a BIOS lock and its already been circumvented.
Yet to see this BIOS in the wild yet tho.....


----------



## wermad

Applause to EK for getting rid of CSQ on the Titan block. I do love the fish design though


----------



## KaRLiToS

Price/performance. *Higher is better*.

Titan anyone? I didnt count the waterblocks in this graph.


----------



## vicyo

updated 700D loop


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> updated 700D loop


Nice rig









Do you have better pictures of your motherboard and waterblock? Looks very sleek and nice and clean.

Do you plan of changing your tubing in your next update?







(had to say it sorry)


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> updated 700D loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn you have me wanting to cut on my 800D to do a 480mm top rad and 240mm bottom rad. Ugh since wermad stopped posting his after changing up I thought I had beaten the urge







. Nice looking build!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Damn you have me wanting to cut on my 800D to do a 480mm top rad and 240mm bottom rad. Ugh since wermad stopped posting his after changing up I thought I had beaten the urge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Nice looking build!


Hehehehehe










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> updated 700D loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


DiNoc! Looks really good! What kind of dye did you use?


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Price/performance. *Higher is better*.
> 
> Titan anyone? I didnt count the waterblocks in this graph.


This isn't news.

Of course the bleeding edge costs more for diminishing returns. Bluray dvd players used to cost $500 6 years ago and were the only way to get 1080p content on your tv, just bought one for $50 with wifi built in. This isn't "budgetpcbuilds.com".

More pics of watercooling.

Here's the latest UV Emerald green in my crappy GPU and CPU loops.


----------



## Renholdt

^Nice avatar.


----------



## Hokies83

Quick question i do not want to abuse my poor 35X all by it's poor self..

Another 35X is 89$ And a Custon g 1/4 tapped mcp 655 are the same price....

Which would be the best to add to my loop?

or should i stick with 2 of the same pumps?

I know the 655 has better flow but the 35X has better pressure..

This pump would be put here in the loop..

35X > rad >rad >rad 400ML res > bay res > *"new pump"* > rad > 250ml res > 35X pump


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quick question i do not want to abuse my poor 35X all by it's poor self..
> 
> Another 35X is 89$ And a Custon g 1/4 tapped mcp 655 are the same price....
> 
> Which would be the best to add to my loop?
> 
> or should i stick with 2 of the same pumps?
> 
> I know the 655 has better flow but the 35X has better pressure..
> 
> This pump would be put here in the loop..
> 
> 35X > rad >rad >rad 400ML res > bay res > *"new pump"* > rad > 250ml res > 35X pump


While mixed pumps are fine (to an extent), I'd personally wouldn't go that route. So for me, another 35X gets my vote. Just be sure to run them in series not parallel


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> updated 700D loop


Very nice and clean!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quick question i do not want to abuse my poor 35X all by it's poor self..
> 
> Another 35X is 89$ And a Custon g 1/4 tapped mcp 655 are the same price....
> 
> Which would be the best to add to my loop?
> 
> or should i stick with 2 of the same pumps?
> 
> I know the 655 has better flow but the 35X has better pressure..
> 
> This pump would be put here in the loop..
> 
> 35X > rad >rad >rad 400ML res > bay res > *"new pump"* > rad > 250ml res > 35X pump


24v D5 Strongs provide the best performance but in your case I would go with another 35X and splice them to the same PWM channel.


----------



## w-moffatt

Hey guys and girls, First time Watercooler here!!

Firstly this club has some INNSAANNE rigs, the money and time put into them must be extreme...

Finally picked up my kit and coolant today and in the middle of leak testing (so far so good) This is my very FIRST water cooling build, so im sure it isnt perfect but i couldnt be happier with it!! So please be gentle









Its the XSPC RASA 240 KIT, i personally like the exposed rad on the back (i know plenty have there own opinion) hence why i chose to put it outside. I now have the wc'ing bug...great...LoL

Comments and feedback always appreciated









New Kit brand new in box


Installed ready for fluid and leak testing


Fluid in and no leaks!


Res level after 700ml of fluid


So a question guys.......The res level, is that enough fluid? it hasnt dropped at all (a little over 3/4 full).

P.S. Excuse crappy photos, will take better ones once everything is back in!
Cheers

--Will.


----------



## amang

Thanks to OCN, I have now my 2nd watercooling rig. This build is mainly used for [email protected] (Note: See my fugly first build here).











Spoiler: See more here...


----------



## w-moffatt

^^ Dude your first build was awesome! BTW photos dont work :S


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> So a question guys.......The res level, is that enough fluid? it hasnt dropped at all (a little over 3/4 full).
> 
> --Will.


I have mine right to the top or my pump starts sucking in air.


----------



## w-moffatt

if theres no noise does that mean its fine or still pulling in air? My res/pump is an all in one combo.

P.S. thanks for the response!


----------



## driftingforlife

I have that res/pump. If there is no noise you should be ok but I would still fill it.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Hey guys and girls, First time Watercooler here!!
> 
> Firstly this club has some INNSAANNE rigs, the money and time put into them must be extreme...
> 
> Finally picked up my kit and coolant today and in the middle of leak testing (so far so good) This is my very FIRST water cooling build, so im sure it isnt perfect but i couldnt be happier with it!! So please be gentle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its the XSPC RASA 240 KIT, i personally like the exposed rad on the back (i know plenty have there own opinion) hence why i chose to put it outside. I now have the wc'ing bug...great...LoL
> 
> Comments and feedback always appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Kit brand new in box
> 
> So a question guys.......The res level, is that enough fluid? it hasnt dropped at all (a little over 3/4 full).
> 
> P.S. Excuse crappy photos, will take better ones once everything is back in!
> Cheers
> 
> --Will.


Why the radiator like that? (i'll add one like you outside, i love it).

You could have turned the radiator 180° and have the tubes go inside the case straight away. It would be much smexy sexy


----------



## Crooksy

I've had my first WC loop running for a little over a week now and have a question.

I stress test my CPU and it maxed out at 70c at 4.2Ghz on stock volts. However I was thinking this seems a little higher than I thought it was going to be. My GPU is also in the same loop at maxes out at 38C which is better than I thought!

The room is relatively warm but I don't have any exact readings on this.

I'm using the default jet plate and did not change to the recommended 1155 one as per the instructions but I doubt this can amount to this much of a difference.


----------



## driftingforlife

That is high. Try re-seating your block.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> That is high. Try re-seating your block.


^ This. Unless you got a really bad CPU (which could be the case - I have one) those should be your temps at more like 4.5GHz/1.3V although it's possible that (again like me) the TIM _under_ the IHS is the problem. If you use core temp what are the temps on the individual cores? Until I delid I'm held captive by a 'wild core' that obviously has insufficient coverage or an air gap under the IHS. In my case one of my cores is up to 14C higher than the coolest core under full load. You may have the same issues.

But I agree with driftingforlife - the first step is to deal with the simplest option, and clean and re-treat your cpu with TIM (if simply re-seating isn't adequate.







Hopefully, that's all you need.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> That is high. Try re-seating your block.


Suppose I might have to. Seems that's the most annoying thing about WCing is if you need to adjust something, it's quite a lot of work.









I might even change the jetplate and try the enclosed TIM with the waterblock and see what sort of results I get. Strange though how my GPU is doing well but CPU not so well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> That is high. Try re-seating your block.
> 
> 
> 
> ^ This. Unless you got a really bad CPU (which could be the case - I have one) those should be your temps at more like 4.5GHz/1.3V although it's possible that (again like me) the TIM _under_ the IHS is the problem. If you use core temp what are the temps on the individual cores? Until I delid I'm held captive by a 'wild core' that obviously has insufficient coverage or an air gap under the IHS. In my case one of my cores is up to 14C higher than the coolest core under full load. You may have the same issues.
> 
> But I agree with driftingforlife - the first step is to deal with the simplest option, and clean and re-treat your cpu with TIM (if simply re-seating isn't adequate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully, that's all you need.
Click to expand...

My cores do fluctuate a lot. I'm at work right now so can't give you the readings but it's very common at idle to be 4c - 8c difference and at load, it was near 8c - 10c between core 0 and 1.

Maybe I do have a poor chip but I will give the above a go first. I really should have recorded some results with my H100 before I switched to custom. I think I remember going into the 80's though at the same settings.


----------



## Kart86

First time watercooling, Idle currently with the 3770k (4.4 @ 1.24v) 33/24/22/21 and after 25 min in Prime95 I hit ~51/43/49/48 in Blend and 60/58/62/62 in small FFT's


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kart86*
> 
> First time watercooling, Idle currently with the 3770k (4.4 @ 1.24v) 33/24/22/21 and after 25 min in Prime95 I hit ~51/43/49/48 in Blend and 60/58/62/62 in small FFT's
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now those are some nice temps... you should be able to push that chip to 4.6GHz or higher without much problem at all.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Suppose I might have to. Seems that's the most annoying thing about WCing is if you need to adjust something, it's quite a lot of work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might even change the jetplate and try the enclosed TIM with the waterblock and see what sort of results I get. Strange though how my GPU is doing well but CPU not so well.
> My cores do fluctuate a lot. I'm at work right now so can't give you the readings but it's very common at idle to be 4c - 8c difference and at load, it was near 8c - 10c between core 0 and 1.
> 
> Maybe I do have a poor chip but I will give the above a go first. I really should have recorded some results with my H100 before I switched to custom. I think I remember going into the 80's though at the same settings.


You should be getting much better temps with your custom loop as opposed to the H100 - but I don't know what the exact specs on your loop are so I can't say for sure.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Suppose I might have to. Seems that's the most annoying thing about WCing is if you need to adjust something, it's quite a lot of work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might even change the jetplate and try the enclosed TIM with the waterblock and see what sort of results I get. Strange though how my GPU is doing well but CPU not so well.
> .


What TIM are you useing?


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kart86*
> 
> First time watercooling, Idle currently with the 3770k (4.4 @ 1.24v) 33/24/22/21 and after 25 min in Prime95 I hit ~51/43/49/48 in Blend and 60/58/62/62 in small FFT's
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now those are some nice temps... you should be able to push that chip to 4.6GHz or higher without much problem at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Suppose I might have to. Seems that's the most annoying thing about WCing is if you need to adjust something, it's quite a lot of work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might even change the jetplate and try the enclosed TIM with the waterblock and see what sort of results I get. Strange though how my GPU is doing well but CPU not so well.
> My cores do fluctuate a lot. I'm at work right now so can't give you the readings but it's very common at idle to be 4c - 8c difference and at load, it was near 8c - 10c between core 0 and 1.
> 
> Maybe I do have a poor chip but I will give the above a go first. I really should have recorded some results with my H100 before I switched to custom. I think I remember going into the 80's though at the same settings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You should be getting much better temps with your custom loop as opposed to the H100 - but I don't know what the exact specs on your loop are so I can't say for sure.
Click to expand...

My loop can be found in my sig rig, you may have to expand it to see all components.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Suppose I might have to. Seems that's the most annoying thing about WCing is if you need to adjust something, it's quite a lot of work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might even change the jetplate and try the enclosed TIM with the waterblock and see what sort of results I get. Strange though how my GPU is doing well but CPU not so well.
> .
> 
> 
> 
> What TIM are you useing?
Click to expand...

I'm using Arctic Silver 5. I'm aware there is a curing period but know the change won't be dramatic...


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Nice rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have better pictures of your motherboard and waterblock? Looks very sleek and nice and clean.
> 
> Do you plan of changing your tubing in your next update?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (had to say it sorry)


Depending on the type of pictures i could take some more. You mean the motherboard outside the chassis and the cpu/gpu blocks unmounted?

Yeah, i know it isn't the best looking tubing but is the best i ever used (never had to check for leaks), I plan to either use black or white tubing *if* the advanced LTR doesn't show plasticizer issues. (when i will be able to make another overseas order also counts







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Damn you have me wanting to cut on my 800D to do a 480mm top rad and 240mm bottom rad. Ugh since wermad stopped posting his after changing up I thought I had beaten the urge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Nice looking build!


And now he posted his









personally, I think the koolance radgrill is better since it has 8 mounting screws to attach it to the case adding rigidity to the top pannel, unlike mine that if i don't be careful, you could bend it with your hands -.- . But who cares, it was cheaper and also looks good









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> DiNoc! Looks really good! What kind of dye did you use?


Although it looks like DiNoc, it is a cheaper alternative that cost about 1/4 the price........ it's also 4 times harder to use since it doesn't have the 3m grooves to remove the air Lol

none, i don't wanna use dye in my loop ever again. Had a ton of issues in the past and now I will only use colored tubing instead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Very nice and clean!


thanks mate


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm using Arctic Silver 5. I'm aware there is a curing period but know the change won't be dramatic...


AS5 is better than most, stick with it.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I'm using Arctic Silver 5. I'm aware there is a curing period but know the change won't be dramatic...
> 
> 
> 
> AS5 is better than most, stick with it.
Click to expand...

Roger that, do you have mch info about the jet plates in the EK blocks and what difference they make?


----------



## driftingforlife

Not a clue sorry.


----------



## MiiX

Guys, i just found out that the GT AP-15 is as loud as a AP-29 on 7 volts +/-. The AP-29 performs better/equal to the AP15 at max speed, when at 7v.
So, the question of the day: How silent is a AP-15 at 12v? What do you think? to loud?

Thanks.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> updated 700D loop


Very nice setup! I am looking for a way to fit more rads into my 700D. I take it the top mounted 480 mod isnt that hard? Still enough room for cables and stuff going to the front panel?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Guys, i just found out that the GT AP-15 is as loud as a AP-29 on 7 volts +/-. The AP-29 performs better/equal to the AP15 at max speed, when at 7v.
> So, the question of the day: How silent is a AP-15 at 12v? What do you think? to loud?
> 
> Thanks.


Depends on whether or not you're going for total silence... or max overclock. I think AP13's are just quiet 'enough' at 7V..







But then again I understand I'm giving up a lot of cooling capability for that silence... I didn't like the noise level of the AP-15 I tried... but many others run literally dozens of them and not seem to mind.


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> Very nice setup! I am looking for a way to fit more rads into my 700D. I take it the top mounted 480 mod isnt that hard? Still enough room for cables and stuff going to the front panel?


Thanks! No, it's very straightforward. Just cut a square on the top and make the holes for the mounting screws (i made threaded M4 holes to easier install/uninstall)

I'm not using a 480mm radiator but looking where the fan is, there will be not much room for cables


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I've had my first WC loop running for a little over a week now and have a question.
> 
> I stress test my CPU and it maxed out at 70c at 4.2Ghz on stock volts. However I was thinking this seems a little higher than I thought it was going to be. My GPU is also in the same loop at maxes out at 38C which is better than I thought!
> 
> The room is relatively warm but I don't have any exact readings on this.
> 
> I'm using the default jet plate and did not change to the recommended 1155 one as per the instructions but I doubt this can amount to this much of a difference.


I have the same problem. At 4.5GHz and 1.22V, my 3770K maxes out at 71 C. My old 2600K never went above 50 after 24 hrs of Prime95. Revamping my rig with a 140 Rad, 2 GPU blocks and a D5 pump this weekend. Will try to resit my CPU blocks too.
One question though, is a 360 rad + 140 rad configuration good enough to cool an overclocked 3770K and two 680s?

Below is a picture of my rig. All comments welcomed!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

This is not uncommon for IB chips,unless they are delidded and re pasted or left bare die.
Intel cheaped out on the IHS design and went with a TIM sandwich rather than the solder design of old.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I have the same problem. At 4.5GHz and 1.22V, my 3770K maxes out at 71 C. My old 2600K never went above 50 after 24 hrs of Prime95. Revamping my rig with a 140 Rad, 2 GPU blocks and a D5 pump this weekend. Will try to resit my CPU blocks too.
> One question though, is a 360 rad + 140 rad configuration good enough to cool an overclocked 3770K and two 680s?
> 
> Below is a picture of my rig. All comments welcomed!


as said by B Neg, it is the Ivy Bridge itself to blame not a lack of rad-estate.

Also, love how you turned your red and black motherboard to a fitting MoBo to a blue themed one. (only one red stripe)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is not uncommon for IB chips,unless they are delidded and re pasted or left bare die.
> Intel cheaped out on the IHS design and went with a TIM sandwich rather than the solder design of old.


we all know that the problem isn't the thermal paste but the fact that the IHS is a few fractoions of a mm too high which causes the heat problems. the intel paste was proven to be quite good (like most pastes that are barely 2C apart)


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is not uncommon for IB chips,unless they are delidded and re pasted or left bare die.
> Intel cheaped out on the IHS design and went with a TIM sandwich rather than the solder design of old.


This ^

In my build I have a 480mm rad on on a 3770k in its own loop and its already been to 90C at something ridiculous like 1.4 volts in prime. The mount is fine and the loop is too. There is a particular threshold where these chip just go nuts because of die size and the inability of the crap Intel paste to transfer heat fast enough. Nothing short of phase change will be able to dissipate that amount of heat quick enough.

I'm just using this as a stop gap till Ivy-E comes out. Hopefully it will be worth the wait.

Nice build by the way Dzuks


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> we all know that the problem isn't the thermal paste but the fact that the IHS is a few fractoions of a mm too high which causes the heat problems. the intel paste was proven to be quite good (like most pastes that are barely 2C apart)


Try telling that to the ivy delid group. People drop 20C all the time swapping paste.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I have the same problem. At 4.5GHz and 1.22V, my 3770K maxes out at 71 C. My old 2600K never went above 50 after 24 hrs of Prime95. Revamping my rig with a 140 Rad, 2 GPU blocks and a D5 pump this weekend. Will try to resit my CPU blocks too.
> One question though, is a 360 rad + 140 rad configuration good enough to cool an overclocked 3770K and two 680s?
> 
> Below is a picture of my rig. All comments welcomed!


Damn thats pretty! I think my next build will be blue


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Guys, i just found out that the GT AP-15 is as loud as a AP-29 on 7 volts +/-. The AP-29 performs better/equal to the AP15 at max speed, when at 7v.
> So, the question of the day: How silent is a AP-15 at 12v? What do you think? to loud?
> 
> Thanks.


I'm trying to decided between running Swiftech Helix PWM, GT AP-15, GT AP-29 with a PWM mod (the circuits are already there, just solder the PWM wire on), or waiting for a rumored PWM version of the AP-15 called the GT AP-40. I want to use PWM, but if I run the AP-15s, I have to get that expensive Aquaero 5 system. No other fan controllers look as nice to me.

Edit: Actually, Martin Liquid Labs just did a bunch of tests with the Swiftech Helix PWM vs the GT AP-15 and concluded that he would actually set up his system with the Swiftech Helix PWM fans. He noted the GT AP-15s were slightly better, but that the PWM support was crucial to properly controlling the fans to him. He was taking into account the cost of a voltage fan controller too, and I'm paraphrasing, but that is what I got from the review. Good enough for me, at least until the GT-40s actually come out. A PWM modded AP-29 starts at around 1250rpm which is too high for my PCs applications. I need about the range of the Helix PWM which is 700rpm to 1800rpm.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Hey guys and girls, First time Watercooler here!!
> 
> Firstly this club has some INNSAANNE rigs, the money and time put into them must be extreme...
> 
> Finally picked up my kit and coolant today and in the middle of leak testing (so far so good) This is my very FIRST water cooling build, so im sure it isnt perfect but i couldnt be happier with it!! So please be gentle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its the XSPC RASA 240 KIT, i personally like the exposed rad on the back (i know plenty have there own opinion) hence why i chose to put it outside. I now have the wc'ing bug...great...LoL
> 
> Comments and feedback always appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Kit brand new in box
> 
> Installed ready for fluid and leak testing
> 
> Fluid in and no leaks!
> 
> Res level after 700ml of fluid
> 
> So a question guys.......The res level, is that enough fluid? it hasnt dropped at all (a little over 3/4 full).
> 
> P.S. Excuse crappy photos, will take better ones once everything is back in!
> Cheers
> 
> --Will.


Not Bad at all







Only thing I could say would be to Paint the top of that card white, or just paint the RED accent lines white to match the theme if you haddent planned to already...... Oh and 3/4 is ok but for it being a new build just run it for like 24 to 48 hours to get all the air out then top off back to 3/4 to 7/8 level....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amang*
> 
> Thanks to OCN, I have now my 2nd watercooling rig. This build is mainly used for [email protected] (Note: See my fugly first build here).


Not bad either.....


----------



## Plutonium10

5 (five) months now I've been in the RMA process for a defective Sapphire 7970. Meanwhile there's a beautiful nickel Heatkiller block and backplate sitting here waiting to go in my computer. Sapphire, I am disappoint.









At least I'm able to come on here and admire all these amazing rigs you guys are building. Keep up the good work!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Try telling that to the ivy delid group. People drop 20C all the time swapping paste.


i agree that after a delid there is a 20C temp drop, but it's mainly the delid itself. the rubber (or whatever it is) that holds the IHS is a bit too much that the gap between the IHS and the cpu die is too big to effectively transfer heat, thus the 20C difference. by swapping pastes most get maybe ~5C and even then it's a high end expensive TIM. (like liquid metal and such)


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys,

I'm in the market for some new fans. The current ones I have don't seem to be working that great (Swiftech 120MM Helix). I have the Black Ice Stealth line of radiators and they have very high FPI. What type of fans would you recommend? I can't afford anything super outrageous so that means AP-15's are out









I'm thinking Corsair... recommendations?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm in the market for some new fans. The current ones I have don't seem to be working that great (Swiftech 120MM Helix). I have the Black Ice Stealth line of radiators and they have very high FPI. What type of fans would you recommend? I can't afford anything super outrageous so that means AP-15's are out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking Corsair... recommendations?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


What are you cooling? How tolerant are you to sound? Silent? Some noise is tolerable? Colour preferences? 3-pin / 4-pin? Push/pull setup? Just push? Budget? Fan controller wattage tolerance required? Spliced? LEDs preferred? Not preferred?

my suggestion: FFB1212VHE


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What are you cooling? How tolerant are you to sound? Silent? Some noise is tolerable? Colour preferences? 3-pin / 4-pin? Push/pull setup? Just push? Budget? Fan controller wattage tolerance required? Spliced? LEDs preferred? Not preferred?
> 
> my suggestion: FFB1212VHE


53 dBA, that's a great way to have a JET engine in your house


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> 53 dBA, that's a great way to have a JET engine in your house


Nah, 53 dba is my normal gaming sesion with 6990. But when you put the fan to 100% then you really have jet engine







.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What are you cooling? How tolerant are you to sound? Silent? Some noise is tolerable? Colour preferences? 3-pin / 4-pin? Push/pull setup? Just push? Budget? Fan controller wattage tolerance required? Spliced? LEDs preferred? Not preferred?
> 
> my suggestion: FFB1212VHE


Hahaha that's a little toooooo loud. I need something around 25MM thick, sound level needs to be medium, they'll only be at 100% when I'm mining.

Any ideas?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm in the market for some new fans. The current ones I have don't seem to be working that great (Swiftech 120MM Helix). I have the Black Ice Stealth line of radiators and they have very high FPI. What type of fans would you recommend? I can't afford anything super outrageous so that means AP-15's are out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking Corsair... recommendations?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I recommend Corsair SP120L's or the Quiet series if you want it to be silent lol.....


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hahaha that's a little toooooo loud. I need something around 25MM thick, sound level needs to be medium, they'll only be at 100% when I'm mining.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Yate Loon High Speed. Only $4 each from PPCs if you chose the stock unsleeved option, move a ton of air, and not too terribly loud.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What are you cooling? How tolerant are you to sound? Silent? Some noise is tolerable? Colour preferences? 3-pin / 4-pin? Push/pull setup? Just push? Budget? Fan controller wattage tolerance required? Spliced? LEDs preferred? Not preferred?
> 
> my suggestion: FFB1212VHE
> 
> 
> 
> Hahaha that's a little toooooo loud. I need something around 25MM thick, sound level needs to be medium, they'll only be at 100% when I'm mining.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Now can you answer the other 20 questions?









That being said, look into the following:
Cougar Vortex
Corsair SP120 (High performance if you have a controller)
Gentle typhoons
Noiseblockers

If you want the best bang for buck option, Yate Loons medium speed. Seriously. These things are dirt cheap and kick arse.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I recommend Corsair SP120L's or the Quiet series if you want it to be silent lol.....


I really like those...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yate Loon High Speed. Only $4 each from PPCs if you chose the stock unsleeved option, move a ton of air, and not too terribly loud.


I think the Corsair's are the winners, but thanks!

+rep to everyone who helped!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## w-moffatt

HELLPPPPP, Sorry guys im not sure where to turn,

My super quiet watercooling setup i installed last night (rasa 240 kit) the res/pump combo is making a humming noise, louder then last night. I did turn the system off to reconnect the atx conection and it started about 10 mins into boot up. Im not sure if its air trapped or if i need to completely fill my res.



Thats how full the res is now, its also making a "sloshing" sound every now and then....HELLPPP LoL


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'm trying to decided between running Swiftech Helix PWM, GT AP-15, GT AP-29 with a PWM mod (the circuits are already there, just solder the PWM wire on), or waiting for a rumored PWM version of the AP-15 called the GT AP-40. I want to use PWM, but if I run the AP-15s, I have to get that expensive Aquaero 5 system. No other fan controllers look as nice to me.
> 
> Edit: Actually, Martin Liquid Labs just did a bunch of tests with the Swiftech Helix PWM vs the GT AP-15 and concluded that he would actually set up his system with the Swiftech Helix PWM fans. He noted the GT AP-15s were slightly better, but that the PWM support was crucial to properly controlling the fans to him. He was taking into account the cost of a voltage fan controller too, and I'm paraphrasing, but that is what I got from the review. Good enough for me, at least until the GT-40s actually come out. A PWM modded AP-29 starts at around 1250rpm which is too high for my PCs applications. I need about the range of the Helix PWM which is 700rpm to 1800rpm.


Wow, never heard of the fans.... I can easily skip the performance for these PWM fans. I rather change my fans when i do benchmarking, which is going to be a pretty unusual happening







They are also quiet cheap from where i buy. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Thats how full the res is now, its also making a "sloshing" sound every now and then....HELLPPP LoL


Fill it.


----------



## hammerforged

w-moffatt

Fill up the res. The "sloshing" is just the was moving around in the res from the sound of it. You always want your res to be topped off. To get rid of the other noise just tilt the case and try to get the air bubbles out. If the buzzing doesn't stop after a couple days of running it you may just have a loud or defective pump.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> HELLPPPPP, Sorry guys im not sure where to turn,
> 
> My super quiet watercooling setup i installed last night (rasa 240 kit) the res/pump combo is making a humming noise, louder then last night. I did turn the system off to reconnect the atx conection and it started about 10 mins into boot up. Im not sure if its air trapped or if i need to completely fill my res.
> 
> Thats how full the res is now, its also making a "sloshing" sound every now and then....HELLPPP LoL


I wouldn't worry about the humming. My Phobya made quite a bit of noise for the first week or 2 then settled down to nothing. Have you checked whether the motor is rubbing against something and amplifying the vibration?


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> HELLPPPPP, Sorry guys im not sure where to turn,
> 
> My super quiet watercooling setup i installed last night (rasa 240 kit) the res/pump combo is making a humming noise, louder then last night. I did turn the system off to reconnect the atx conection and it started about 10 mins into boot up. Im not sure if its air trapped or if i need to completely fill my res.
> 
> Thats how full the res is now, its also making a "sloshing" sound every now and then....HELLPPP LoL


Do you have the possibilty to reduce the pumpspeed? That might help with humming noise. But you should make shure that you don't have any airlocks in your system.

Edit:

...was just looking how your pump-res combo is built, so that what PinzaC55 said really could provide a highly uncomfortable noise. You should check that first


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> w-moffatt
> 
> Fill up the res. The "sloshing" is just the was moving around in the res from the sound of it. You always want your res to be topped off. To get rid of the other noise just tilt the case and try to get the air bubbles out. If the buzzing doesn't stop after a couple days of running it you may just have a loud or defective pump.


Agreed!!!


----------



## dumbazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kart86*
> 
> First time watercooling, Idle currently with the 3770k (4.4 @ 1.24v) 33/24/22/21 and after 25 min in Prime95 I hit ~51/43/49/48 in Blend and 60/58/62/62 in small FFT's


Wow Crisp


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Agreed!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Do you have the possibilty to reduce the pumpspeed? That might help with humming noise. But you should make shure that you don't have any airlocks in your system.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> ...was just looking how your pump-res combo is built, so that what PinzaC55 said really could provide a highly uncomfortable noise. You should check that first


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the humming. My Phobya made quite a bit of noise for the first week or 2 then settled down to nothing. Have you checked whether the motor is rubbing against something and amplifying the vibration?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> w-moffatt
> 
> Fill up the res. The "sloshing" is just the was moving around in the res from the sound of it. You always want your res to be topped off. To get rid of the other noise just tilt the case and try to get the air bubbles out. If the buzzing doesn't stop after a couple days of running it you may just have a loud or defective pump.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Fill it.


Hey guys,

Thanks heaps for your suggestions! I have filled it right up and still making that sound...the res pump combo i didnt think i could actually get into the pump being its sealed? or do i just undo the alan keys on the top and away i go?? There is no bubbles in the res and very little in the tubes. Am i able to shutdown every night or is it best to leave a watercooling rig on 24/7??

Thanks in advance.


----------



## wermad

I has gpu(s)


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Nice wermad. Were those Fat Italian Stalions 690s?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Moar pr0n Werm, Nice cards.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Nice wermad. Were those Fat Italian Stalions 690s?











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Moar pr0n Werm, Nice cards.


Just plumbed them and leak testing. Also, get to test out my new Dells that came today as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Agreed!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Do you have the possibilty to reduce the pumpspeed? That might help with humming noise. But you should make shure that you don't have any airlocks in your system.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> ...was just looking how your pump-res combo is built, so that what PinzaC55 said really could provide a highly uncomfortable noise. You should check that first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the humming. My Phobya made quite a bit of noise for the first week or 2 then settled down to nothing. Have you checked whether the motor is rubbing against something and amplifying the vibration?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> w-moffatt
> 
> Fill up the res. The "sloshing" is just the was moving around in the res from the sound of it. You always want your res to be topped off. To get rid of the other noise just tilt the case and try to get the air bubbles out. If the buzzing doesn't stop after a couple days of running it you may just have a loud or defective pump.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Fill it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Thanks heaps for your suggestions! I have filled it right up and still making that sound...the res pump combo i didnt think i could actually get into the pump being its sealed? or do i just undo the alan keys on the top and away i go?? There is no bubbles in the res and very little in the tubes. Am i able to shutdown every night or is it best to leave a watercooling rig on 24/7??
> 
> Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

The sloshing noise is indicative of air still in the system,probably locked in the rad,pulse the pumps on and off to increase the chance of disloging it.
If you are running straight distilled then adding a single drop of dish soap can also help.
Humming from the pump when new is not uncommon,I had a D5 that sounded like a gravel truck in a Koolance top,a few tweaks on the mount plate with a driver fixed that.


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Thanks heaps for your suggestions! I have filled it right up and still making that sound...the res pump combo i didnt think i could actually get into the pump being its sealed? or do i just undo the alan keys on the top and away i go?? There is no bubbles in the res and very little in the tubes. Am i able to shutdown every night or is it best to leave a watercooling rig on 24/7??
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Those xspc combos are sealed and aren't meant to be messed up.
Are you using the tool-less mounting hardware from your chasis, or you secured both sides of the reservoir with screws?

no need to run 24/7, you can shutdown your pc whenever you want


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just plumbed them and leak testing. Also, get to test out my new Dells that came today as well.


What a nice way to end the week eh?! Ready to see more


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The sloshing noise is indicative of air still in the system,probably locked in the rad,pulse the pumps on and off to increase the chance of disloging it.
> If you are running straight distilled then adding a single drop of dish soap can also help.
> Humming from the pump when new is not uncommon,I had a D5 that sounded like a gravel truck in a Koolance top,a few tweaks on the mount plate with a driver fixed that.


yeah i topped up fluid and sort of tilted the rig side to side and the sloshing has stopped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Those xspc combos are sealed and aren't meant to be messed up.
> Are you using the tool-less mounting hardware from your chasis, or you secured both sides of the reservoir with screws?
> 
> no need to run 24/7, you can shutdown your pc whenever you want


Im using the screws to screw it into the chassis...i pulled the res/pump out of the 5.25" bay and the noise definitely dropped so im thinking a little vibration inside is causing a louder vibration in the case...As long as its not faulty im not overtly worried as i game with headset on or speakers cranked. When my fans are on high setting it drowns out the sound of the vibration....


----------



## kj1060

Quick question on temps for a 3930k. I have it on its own loop with a 360 SR1, XSPC Raystorm, and XSPC D5 bay reservoir (set to 4, 5 I can hear the high pitched whine). The hottest core is getting to 39-41 degrees Celsius and the lowest is at 31-32 degrees Celsius at idle. Are these temperatures too hot or in the right range? This is the best mount so far (3rd time mounting). I know there is a lot of preference involved with TIM (using Prolimatech PK-1) application, this mount I used the 'X' and seem to get the best temps so far, but is there a suggested way to apply the TIM to the 3930k (I know Arctic Silver suggests using 2 lines). Thanks for the help.

Edit: Completely stock as well.


----------



## TheOx

CPU loop running perfectly after a minor leak in the pump but still Undecided on what block for my 670..... Installed the corsair fans that arrived today and their performance is great on my ex240.





Not the greatest pictures but will provide when 2nd loop is finished and new psu with custom length sleeved cables.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> What a nice way to end the week eh?! Ready to see more












Ugh, my camera sucks. Gonna try my SG3 if that does a better job


----------



## w-moffatt

hey guys so update on the kit i installed, i have RMA'd it. Im not happy at all and just pulled it all out. Very dissapointing and ill be going back to air cooling for a while...Oh Well lesson learned!


----------



## XgenZeepee

Wow, all of this watercooled PC makes me wanna watercool my PC too! But I need to have good system first then later the watercooling system for it....


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XgenZeepee*
> 
> Wow, all of this watercooled PC makes me wanna watercool my PC too! But I need to have good system first then later the watercooling system for it....


That's a good set of priorities there. I won't say any names, but there are some around these parts that go in the opposite direction...


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> LoL i got a laugh how you notice my speakers but forgot to mention one of the most epic water cooled builds of the year lol


...like B negative says, nothing new, been done before, and definitely not epic. All you did was stick pretty stuff in a box and sleeved some cables haha. If you want epic, check out the "Big Budget Boomer Box" by our very own cpachris. http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/2900#post_19047491

^
|
EPIC


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> ...like B negative says, nothing new, been done before, and definitely not epic. All you did was stick pretty stuff in a box and sleeved some cables haha. If you want epic, check out the "Big Budget Boomer Box" by our very own cpachris. http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/2900#post_19047491
> 
> ^
> |
> EPIC


His build is pretty good i have more rad and res...

Please show me who has done what i have before?
That is right nobody has quad Monsta rads and 3 Frozen Q helix with one floating 4 inches over the board

If u think all i did was stick stuff in a box you need to un register to OCN now cause you have lost your damn mind.
I have about60 hrs just building this u think it is sooo cut and dry dude it is not in any way shape or form..
It takes measureing cutting painting planning bloody fingers and lots of time.
You have no clue what it takes to build on this scale no clue..

So much jealousy disrespect and hate it is sickening.









As a ref it took me 3 hrs to do this..


I have more then 60 hrs into what i have now and it still is not done.


----------



## kcuestag

Can we please stop this already? I'm sick of this discussion, don't make us go any further.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Can we please stop this already? I'm sick of this discussion, don't make us go any further.


Please im tired of the disrespect from people who have no clue.
I got alot of hard work time and money into this and it is beyond aggravating for people to put it down... For reaasons i do not know.

As a ref Galaxy and PrimoChill have both posted pics of it on there face book and Absolutely love it.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> HELLPPPPP, Sorry guys im not sure where to turn,
> 
> My super quiet watercooling setup i installed last night (rasa 240 kit) the res/pump combo is making a humming noise, louder then last night. I did turn the system off to reconnect the atx conection and it started about 10 mins into boot up. Im not sure if its air trapped or if i need to completely fill my res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats how full the res is now, its also making a "sloshing" sound every now and then....HELLPPP LoL


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> hey guys so update on the kit i installed, i have RMA'd it. Im not happy at all and just pulled it all out. Very dissapointing and ill be going back to air cooling for a while...Oh Well lesson learned!


Wow, I hate to hear of anyone having so much trouble. I'm still suspect that you had some air in that pump/res - but without being there it's really hard to say. I hope you try again with the water cooling - it's really exciting and addictive once you get it going!

In other news - I bought a MSi N680GTX to replace my 470 in my folding rig. I'll be buying a water block before too long. I would really like to see some pics of some GTX 680s under water to help me decide on a block.


----------



## superericla

You have more radiator space than his 7+ radiators Hokies83? I like your setup, but I'm not a big fan of multiple reservoirs in a single loop. Tried that before and wasn't a big fan.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> You have more radiator space than his 7+ radiators Hokies83? I like your setup, but I'm not a big fan of multiple reservoirs in a single loop. Tried that before and wasn't a big fan.


My bad i only seen 3 when i glanced at it.. read op and seen 7.

Yea i think the res really hurt flow... and is not for performance. " i did however order another MCP 35X last night"

Frozen Q helix res are Beautiful to anyone who has owned them knows just how beautiful they are..

My Camera does not give them justice the color and lighting is off on every picture... and im not very good at taken pics.

I may have to try another camera or get somebody who can use it better then me to do it.


----------



## superericla

I hear ya on that, I'm no good at pictures myself. I've enjoyed my frozenq helix reservoir quite a bit.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quick, distraction time! ... uh, I guess my build is "complete" enough for me to post some pics. Still a few small things I want to add like a black SLI bridge and some 40mm fans to the back.


----------



## protzman

oh... me likey! pretty similar to mine







is that the m8? er what?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> oh... me likey! pretty similar to mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is that the m8? er what?


SM8, matte white and reversed. Best case I have ever had bar none. I spent too much on that and the water bits, so my build isn't so extreme as some of these, but I like it. Its very, very quiet which is important to me.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quick, distraction time! ... uh, I guess my build is "complete" enough for me to post some pics. Still a few small things I want to add like a black SLI bridge and some 40mm fans to the back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well done.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Well done.


Thanks, I'm still trying to get my Mayhems pastel green to be the right color, I've been adding dye to it every little bit to get it to darken up, going for more forest green to match the other parts.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Thanks, I'm still trying to get my Mayhems pastel green to be the right color, I've been adding dye to it every little bit to get it to darken up, going for more forest green to match the other parts.


I commented in the CL thread, but wanted to add how much I like how the PSU on the accessory rail turned out... clean and it gives the impression (to the untrained eye at least) that you have a "PSU-less" computer somehow.







I'd love to see some close shots of how you ran that power cord (I assume through the bottom?) - regardless it looks fantastic and seems like the CPU temps are better sorted with the loop order change as well. Gratz!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quick, distraction time! ... uh, I guess my build is "complete" enough for me to post some pics. Still a few small things I want to add like a black SLI bridge and some 40mm fans to the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not another one








These few amazingly lovely green watercooled builds that have popped up the past little while make my desire to get a custom loop going through the roof. Stop it guys


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> His build is pretty good i have more rad and res...
> 
> Please show me who has done what i have before?
> That is right nobody has quad Monsta rads and 3 Frozen Q helix with one floating 4 inches over the board
> 
> If u think all i did was stick stuff in a box you need to un register to OCN now cause you have lost your damn mind.
> I have about60 hrs just building this u think it is sooo cut and dry dude it is not in any way shape or form..
> It takes measureing cutting painting planning bloody fingers and lots of time.
> You have no clue what it takes to build on this scale no clue..
> 
> So much jealousy disrespect and hate it is sickening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a ref it took me 3 hrs to do this..
> 
> 
> I have more then 60 hrs into what i have now and it still is not done.


Agreed..... There are alot of misinformed users and it can be upsetting but it be ok.... All you need to know is your the **** and u know what your doing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I commented in the CL thread, but wanted to add how much I like how the PSU on the accessory rail turned out... clean and it gives the impression (to the untrained eye at least) that you have a "PSU-less" computer somehow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to see some close shots of how you ran that power cord (I assume through the bottom?) - regardless it looks fantastic and seems like the CPU temps are better sorted with the loop order change as well. Gratz!


Ask and ye shall receive.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Hey guys just installed my Heatkiller GPU-X3 680 block and was curious if it had specif inlet and outlets since i read nothing about it on the documentation. Will post pics of the updated loop once I figure out my order







.


----------



## lildeewayne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALIGN*
> 
> Just a couple of quick shots i`ll try and do some better ones...


hey...i was wondering what tubing and lighting you used...i really like the theme that's going on...


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

EVGA GTX 670 2gb


FC Link


I got this on Ebay for $50 bucks. Can anyone tell me what the best screws to use when mounting fans to it? The seller didnt include any.


The build is coming together.




Busy day at work today. I had to finish all those, then diagnose a whole bunch more before I could go home and work on a cool, working computer...


still need a new pump/top/mod kit, i have another 240 rad to install also at some point. need some more fittings for sure though. any critiques are welcome!


----------



## golfergolfer

@ jimlaheysadrunk

So just because I have had this question for a long time if you dont buy the FC Link then the only way to use the block is out the very bottom right? (anyone could answer this)


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> @ jimlaheysadrunk
> 
> So just because I have had this question for a long time if you dont buy the FC Link then the only way to use the block is out the very bottom right? (anyone could answer this)


yep, you would need to come out the bottom of the block with 90 degree fittings if you dont use the fc link, but it comes with the block so the choice is yours really. i like it, but dont like it at the same time.


----------



## golfergolfer

Good to know that it does in fact come with the block I didn't know this before. Thanks!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Good to know that it does in fact come with the block I didn't know this before. Thanks!


no worries, happy to assist.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Here we go. Finally added some cooling for my pc.









P.S. These were uploaded from an ipad, therefor the odd direction of the pictures


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Here we go. Finally added some cooling for my pc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. These were uploaded from an ipad, therefor the odd direction of the pictures


Hey is that blue feser tubing or clear with dye? Anyway nice looking build







..


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Hey is that blue feser tubing or clear with dye? Anyway nice looking build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..


It's both







and Ty







first time loop for me. The gpu's were tricky as f00k


----------



## MURDoctrine

Okay here are some crappy cell phone pics of my loop finished and up and running again. Added the Nickel plated Heatkiller 680 block and backplate to my 670 FTW. Going to be replacing the res and pump soon though. Noticed some spiderweb cracks forming around the return in my XSPC Rasa kit res/pump.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Some more for your viewing pleasure:


This is very nice... Is this a Titan block? Glad those circles are gone!


----------



## Fonne

It is the Titan block









http://www.ekwb.com/news/316/19/EK-first-with-GeForce-GTX-Titan-Full-Cover-water-block/


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> It is the Titan block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/316/19/EK-first-with-GeForce-GTX-Titan-Full-Cover-water-block/


Appreciate it much....


----------



## Fonne

And their Matrix block is also cicle free









http://www.ekwb.com/news/317/19/EK-introduces-EK-FC7970-Matrix-Full-Cover-water-block/

Does the D5 pump get hot, when running at setting 3 ? (Not running full speed) ... Is thinking about making a "full-cover" box in acrylic around it, but if it gets hot, then I need to make some holes etc.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> And their Matrix block is also cicle free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/317/19/EK-introduces-EK-FC7970-Matrix-Full-Cover-water-block/
> 
> Does the D5 pump get hot, when running at setting 3 ? (Not running full speed) ... Is thinking about making a "full-cover" box in acrylic around it, but if it gets hot, then I need to make some holes etc.


Interested in Titan block as I'm probably going to pick up a couple of them..

D5 is a great pump, it doesn't get hot or can you hear it @3. Around 4 you can hear it & 5 it will get a good bit warm... If you have a enough case fans, I wouldn't worry about the heat or noise. I can't never hear it @3 over my fans.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quick, distraction time! ... uh, I guess my build is "complete" enough for me to post some pics. Still a few small things I want to add like a black SLI bridge and some 40mm fans to the back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!


----------



## kingchris

Hey guys, is this a little over kill!
840mm


these look good


----------



## PCModderMike

I want to see those mounted inside a case, pronto.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I want to see those mounted inside a case, pronto.


they dont make cases big enough


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Interested in Titan block as I'm probably going to pick up a couple of them..
> 
> D5 is a great pump, it doesn't get hot or can you hear it @3. Around 4 you can hear it & 5 it will get a good bit warm... If you have a enough case fans, I wouldn't worry about the heat or noise. I can't never hear it @3 over my fans.


Thanks, sounds great if it runs pretty old at setting 3









Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE

Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump w/ RPM Monitoring

Would like to compare prices, but cant find the Swiftech MCP655 PWM here in EU ? ....


----------



## HowHardCanItBe

The *TOS* still applies in this thread. Name calling and general disrespectful behaviour won't be tolerated


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> they dont make cases big enough


Doesn't mean you can't fit them in a case though ...

NZXT Phantom 820 * Stretched Limo Edition * [ build log ]


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Doesn't mean you can't fit them in a case though ...
> 
> NZXT Phantom 820 * Stretched Limo Edition * [ build log ]


NICE!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Thanks, sounds great if it runs pretty old at setting 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE
> 
> Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump w/ RPM Monitoring
> 
> Would like to compare prices, but cant find the Swiftech MCP655 PWM here in EU ? ....


Thought about using the Aquacomputer D5 with the USB interface? I guess you would have to use Aquasuite (free) to control it instead of pwm. Don't know if ordering the pwm version from US would work out cheaper for you.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Hey guys, is this a little over kill!
> 840mm
> 
> 
> these look good


rads get much bigger you will have to start using them as walls for your house


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Hey guys, is this a little over kill!


Are those brass or is it just a lighting effect?


----------



## Mandrake7062

Ok, I'm liking this club!! There is some down right crazy stuff going on in here!! I'd like in please..


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> they dont make cases big enough


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Doesn't mean you can't fit them in a case though ...
> 
> NZXT Phantom 820 * Stretched Limo Edition * [ build log ]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Actually, I used the better performing copper finned versions, rather than the "el-cheapo" aluminum finned ones . . .











Darlene


----------



## King Lycan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Doesn't mean you can't fit them in a case though ...
> 
> NZXT Phantom 820 * Stretched Limo Edition * [ build log ]


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quick, distraction time! ... uh, I guess my build is "complete" enough for me to post some pics. Still a few small things I want to add like a black SLI bridge and some 40mm fans to the back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice rig








i've seen a few people put a piece of acrylic (would be green or frosted green in your case)
over the sli bridge. would look really nice. at least it did in their builds.
just google "Scratch Build Project: L3p D3sk " and check out the sli bridge.


----------



## Idef1x

Here is the new Alphacool NexXxos XT45 Triple 180 radiator in my FT02. I had to cut a bit of the fan housings to make it fit. If I didn't, The fit would be so tight that I would have to force the side panel on and possibly ruining the paint job on the rad in the process. This really is one beast of a rad.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> @ jimlaheysadrunk
> 
> So just because I have had this question for a long time if you dont buy the FC Link then the only way to use the block is out the very bottom right? (anyone could answer this)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> yep, you would need to come out the bottom of the block with 90 degree fittings if you dont use the fc link, but it comes with the block so the choice is yours really. i like it, but dont like it at the same time.


There is another part from EK called FC-Bridge-Single which makes it unnessesary to use any angled fittings at all. With that one you would just have the "common" ins and outs on the block.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the new Alphacool NexXxos XT45 Triple 180 radiator in my FT02. I had to cut a bit of the fan housings to make it fit. If I didn't, The fit would be so tight that I would have to force the side panel on and possibly ruining the paint job on the rad in the process. This really is one beast of a rad.


Wow, that rad is sweet! 10mm thicker than the Magicool 540 rad. Didn't you have a Magicool rad in there before? If so, how does the Alphacool rad compare to the Magicool rad?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Wow, that rad is sweet! 10mm thicker than the Magicool 540 rad. Didn't you have a Magicool rad in there before? If so, how does the Alphacool rad compare to the Magicool rad?


No more upgrades for your case. Time for new case!


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> There is another part from EK called FC-Bridge-Single which makes it unnessesary to use any angled fittings at all. With that one you would just have the "common" ins and outs on the block.


It would be nice if they just included that, its like $3 worth of acrylic. Same way it would be nice if they included a backplate with their CPU block like the "cheaper" brands like XSPC do.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> No more upgrades for your case. Time for new case!


ahhh-naahhh, I'm still going to rock my RV02 for another year......maybe even longer.


----------



## TwentyCent

So guys, I've been looking around a bit, but can't seem to find a consensus...

What is my best bet regarding clear tubing if I want to run Mayhem's Pastel?

Would like to order parts for my first watercooling experience


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> It would be nice if they just included that, its like $3 worth of acrylic. Same way it would be nice if they included a backplate with their CPU block like the "cheaper" brands like XSPC do.


so true


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> So guys, I've been looking around a bit, but can't seem to find a consensus...
> 
> What is my best bet regarding clear tubing if I want to run Mayhem's Pastel?
> 
> Would like to order parts for my first watercooling experience


People seem to be having good results with Sidewinders duralene, including myself.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Thought about using the Aquacomputer D5 with the USB interface? I guess you would have to use Aquasuite (free) to control it instead of pwm. Don't know if ordering the pwm version from US would work out cheaper for you.


This one ?

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p13775_Aquacomputer-D5-pump-mechnics-with-USB--and-aquabus-interface.html
- 88,99 €

And here is the Alphacool VPP655

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p10620_Alphacool-VPP655---single-edition.html
- 65,99 €

Has been searcing theese EU shops:

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/
http://specialtech.co.uk/
http://www.highflow.nl/
http://aquatuning.de/index.php

But nobody in EU got the Swiftech MCP655-PWM









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=g30c107s1802


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> There is another part from EK called FC-Bridge-Single which makes it unnessesary to use any angled fittings at all. With that one you would just have the "common" ins and outs on the block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting This would be most idea for me however I would still be running a 90 degree fitting over the top of the block and it doesnt look like there would be enough clearance for that :/


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Interesting This would be most idea for me however I would still be running a 90 degree fitting over the top of the block and it doesnt look like there would be enough clearance for that :/


I will get that block sent in about a week, I can take a measure then. But I also doubt that it would fit without an extension.


----------



## Evolution069

This is my latest setup. Im pretty much done with watercooling now. Took me too much time and money, but it worth it so far!!


----------



## sanitarium

Picked up a pump top and some fittings. wanted to get a drain and fill setup going. fill wasn't going to work out exactly like i wanted so i put it off.

but here's the drain anyways.


----------



## paopaovocal

My NZXT Switch810 with watercooling.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My NZXT Switch810 with watercooling.


Very nice machine, love the color scheme.


----------



## wermad

Awesome build guys


----------



## lostsoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evolution069*
> 
> This is my latest setup. Im pretty much done with watercooling now. Took me too much time and money, but it worth it so far!!


I've been looking for a 580 classified waterblock and find you have 2 of them !

I cant even find one









Where did you get yours from ?


----------



## King Lycan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My NZXT Switch810 with watercooling.


Loveeeeee the black & white theme I'm going with a similar theme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evolution069*
> 
> This is my latest setup. Im pretty much done with watercooling now. Took me too much time and money, but it worth it so far!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Aww man your build is beautiful love the Cosmos series I want


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Wow, that rad is sweet! 10mm thicker than the Magicool 540 rad. Didn't you have a Magicool rad in there before? If so, how does the Alphacool rad compare to the Magicool rad?


Yeah I had the Magicool 540. The Alphacool rad is just so much better built. I haven't got any real comparison that is done in any scientific way, but I tried running Prime95 Larrge FFTs together with Heaven benchmark at the standard setting on 1440p. My system is clocked at 4,7GHz @ 1.4V and 1400/7000 on the GPU. The GPU didn't reach 50c. It would be interresting to see how it performs with SLI though.


----------



## darkapollo

Can I join?

XSPC Raystorm
XSPC RS120
XSPC X20 750 v4 Res/Pump


Its not as huge as some, but all I wanted was to do the CPU loop.
1/2hr into prime95 and shes still in the mid 30's. On air she was typically mid40's at idle and mid50's running Prime.
The PC is in the basement so she has constant cold air supply.
Ran Prime all night on the high-heat test. Only got up to a sweltering 31*c/87*f (relocked the core to compare socket to core temps)
I could probably go lower if I added a second fan to the back to help draw air through.


----------



## freitz

Its been a while since I have updated in here.

*Before adding Titan*


*Titan Added waiting on Block for Monday*


Looking to switch out the Res and Pump to a bitpower 250mm res with dress up kit and attached top.

Let me know what you think.

FYI on the bottom 240 UT60 that is a drainage BP fitting highly recommended helped a ton when draining the loop.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Its been a while since I have updated in here.
> 
> *Before adding Titan*
> 
> 
> *Titan Added waiting on Block for Monday*
> 
> 
> Looking to switch out the Res and Pump to a bitpower 250mm res with dress up kit and attached top.
> 
> Let me know what you think.
> 
> FYI on the bottom 240 UT60 that is a drainage BP fitting highly recommended helped a ton when draining the loop.


Nice loop man!

Id skip on the plain jane bits power res and get a 250MM frozen q Helix he makes them in Red UV red and blood red...

The mid point of the case where the UT 60 would look ubber sexy with one there.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Its been a while since I have updated in here.
> 
> *Before adding Titan*
> 
> 
> *Titan Added waiting on Block for Monday*
> 
> .


Poor *Titan*, must be annoying to be ignored by all those radiators surrounding it.

Great loop bud, waiting for your block!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Poor *Titan*, must be annoying to be ignored by all those radiators surrounding it.
> 
> Great loop bud, waiting for your block!


Thanks,

Yeah also waiting on the block it shipped yesterday I pre-ordered from Frozen CPU. the EK Copper/plexi. Although I really like the look of the new aquacomputer one but then I would have to switch ou the cpu block to match.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Its been a while since I have updated in here.
> 
> *Before adding Titan*
> 
> 
> *Titan Added waiting on Block for Monday*
> 
> 
> Looking to switch out the Res and Pump to a bitpower 250mm res with dress up kit and attached top.
> 
> Let me know what you think.
> 
> FYI on the bottom 240 UT60 that is a drainage BP fitting highly recommended helped a ton when draining the loop.


Bitspower res are FTW,I use them on all my builds,you cant beat the quality

Great score on the titan too!


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Are those brass or is it just a lighting effect?


Just the lighting(mood lighting)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually, I used the better performing copper finned versions, rather than the "el-cheapo" aluminum finned ones . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I know it the cheapo one but it dont come in brass for the 840mm

Love the build!


----------



## Mandrake7062

This may be a stupid question because I notice that no one seems to use them, but I thought to put these ball valves on my 45mm read.
I need to break down the loop so I can add a north bridge block. It's just such a pain in the ass to prime the loop that I figured if I could hang the rad already full of coolant that it would prime by itself in a few minutes. I mean the look like full port valves, as I see no restriction. A rookie mistake or what?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> This may be a stupid question because I notice that no one seems to use them, but I thought to put these ball valves on my 45mm read.
> I need to break down the loop so I can add a north bridge block. It's just such a pain in the ass to prime the loop that I figured if I could hang the rad already full of coolant that it would prime by itself in a few minutes. I mean the look like full port valves, as I see no restriction. A rookie mistake or what?


I'm not sure what you mean but I think if you put a Radiator full of water when the rest of the loop is empty...full of air?
I think it may cause some air locks. Especially if your pump is far from the rad.


----------



## Mandrake7062

I don't know, that's why I asked but I wouldn't start the pump dry, I would fill my bay res first. I just wondered if it would get the loop primed faster.
Maybe I'm not getting this across right. I thought to put them on the rad, fill the rad, close the valves, hang the rad, fill the res, open the valves, and turn it on.
I wondered if this might get the system primed much easier?


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Finally got around to taking some proper pictures of my rig today! No more upgrades for me for a while, watercooling is awesome but it sure is costly!









Spoiler: More Pics!























Kind of a cool shot


----------



## phillyd

Wow! She's a beaut. Any pics with the fans lit up?


----------



## Mandrake7062

Beautiful work there Papa!!!


----------



## animal0307

If anyone is curious I just wrote up a quick pictorial for sleeving tubing.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1366814/pictuorial-how-to-sleeve-tubing/0_50


----------



## Sashimi

A question that's always been on my mind is, if I have dual pump sitting right next to each other, in terms of loop order, would it be better to run them one after another to shorten the loop distance, or have them apart in the loop so they can work separately to ensure high flow rate, however will increase loop distance significantly?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Working Hard!!












***UPDATE*** NEW PHOTOS!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evolution069*
> 
> This is my latest setup. Im pretty much done with watercooling now. Took me too much time and money, but it worth it so far!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Watercooling definitely can become very costly...but that's one great looking rig, so looks like it's paid off for ya.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My NZXT Switch810 with watercooling.


Very nice









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Finally got around to taking some proper pictures of my rig today! No more upgrades for me for a while, watercooling is awesome but it sure is costly!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Pics!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Kind of a cool shot


Looks great. Love the small details, like having Di-Noc here and there covering little bits.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Working Hard!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Just the lighting(mood lighting)
> I know it the cheapo one but it dont come in brass for the 840mm
> 
> Love the build!


You have to buy pairs of the copper finned 420's and join them with the serial connector to get a "copper 840":

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14282/ex-rad-309/Aquacomputer_Airplex_Modularity_System_Serial_Connector_Adapter_-_Acetal_33502.html?tl=g30c95s1554

To me, it was well worth it.

Darlene


----------



## OccultAssassin

Question for anyone using a Heatkiller GPU-X3 on a 670 with a backplate or anyone who may have an answer. If I have memory(RAM) chips on the back of the card should I use thermal pads between the chips and backplate and if so what thickness would you recommend? I mean I know the TDP of the RAM is significantly small and might not matter overall, but I just want to get the opinions of people using the block and backplate or more experienced watercoolers.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My NZXT Switch810 with watercooling.


Good job bro.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Finally got around to taking some proper pictures of my rig today! No more upgrades for me for a while, watercooling is awesome but it sure is costly!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of a cool shot


Damn, you too. Good job on the cable management and sleeving.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> There is another part from EK called FC-Bridge-Single which makes it unnessesary to use any angled fittings at all. With that one you would just have the "common" ins and outs on the block.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> It would be nice if they just included that, its like $3 worth of acrylic. Same way it would be nice if they included a backplate with their CPU block like the "cheaper" brands like XSPC do.


Their CPU blocks do come with the backplate.


----------



## androidd505

[My Baby]


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Their CPU blocks do come with the backplate.


Want to tell that to the one I just bought, which includes in its installation instructions that I SHOULD buy a backplate for best results?









Maybe they used to, but it seems like they want to nickel and dime us to death these days with all the little tiny accessory parts.


----------



## Jakusonfire

From EK's website ... The Supremacy CPU block page

"Enclosed in the box:
- EK-Supremacy series water block
- EK-CPU Precise Mount mounting mechanism
- EK-Supremacy Backplate system (Intel LGA-1366 & AMD AMx Backplate; Intel LGA-115x Backplate ; rubber gasket)
- Additional AMD Socket mounting plate
- TIM / thermal grease: Gelid GC-Extreme (EKWB 1.6g)"


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> From EK's website ... The Supremacy CPU block page
> 
> "Enclosed in the box:
> - EK-Supremacy series water block
> - EK-CPU Precise Mount mounting mechanism
> - EK-Supremacy Backplate system (Intel LGA-1366 & AMD AMx Backplate; Intel LGA-115x Backplate ; rubber gasket)
> - Additional AMD Socket mounting plate
> - TIM / thermal grease: Gelid GC-Extreme (EKWB 1.6g)"


Thats the Supremacy, I have the LTX. Its cheaper but considering the Raystorm is the same cost and comes with more stuff, TIM and backplate (and probably performs better TBH) I was kind of miffed.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hmmm ... Never used an LTX. It says it comes with a mounting system but how are you supposed to mount it without a backplate?

Edit: So it uses a different system that does not need a backplate.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hmmm ... Never used an LTX. It says it comes with a mounting system but how are you supposed to mount it without a backplate?
> 
> Edit: So it uses a different system that does not need a backplate.


Yeah, supposedly just the screws and plastic washers are enough, but I almost broke my motherboard with it and the mount it gives is pure crap. I luckily had a backplate from an air cooler in the closet that fit the screws and allowed a much better mount with a lot less force on the thumbscrews.


----------



## darkapollo

Having just installed a Raystorm, it reuses the HSF back plate.


----------



## TheSurroundGamr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkapollo*
> 
> Having just installed a Raystorm, it reuses the HSF back plate.


Blue LED?


----------



## OmniScience

Alright guys, here's a "*sneak peak"* at my little setup here. I apologize in advance for the horrendous cell pics, but I'll get a nice photoshoot of my carbon-fibred S-810 when its fully complete, still a lot to get to.

So here's my *quad-SLI GTX 690 3930K* build. I'm just waiting on a few more of my LED's to come to complete the look

Top: RX360 P/P

Modified front: RX240 P/P


----------



## KaRLiToS

Do you run parallel on everything, the blocks I mean?

(Nice rig by the way







)


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmniScience*
> 
> Alright guys, here's a sneak peak at my little setup here. I apologize in advance for the horrendous cell pics, but I'll get a nice photoshoot of my carbon-fibred S-810 when its fully complete, still a lot to get to.
> 
> So here's my quad-SLI GTX 690 3930K build. I'm just waiting on a few more of my LED's to come to complete the look


Well built!
, how come on the last pic I see one clear tubing? or is it just me?


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmniScience*
> 
> Alright guys, here's a sneak peak at my little setup here. I apologize in advance for the horrendous cell pics, but I'll get a nice photoshoot of my carbon-fibred S-810 when its fully complete, still a lot to get to.
> 
> So here's my quad-SLI GTX 690 3930K build. I'm just waiting on a few more of my LED's to come to complete the look
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm fairly certain that putting your cpu block in paralell, at the end, with your video cards like that is dropping the flow rate quite a bit and hurting your cooling performance. kuddos to you if it's actually working for ya though.


----------



## OmniScience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Well built!
> , how come on the last pic I see one clear tubing? or is it just me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left


Thank you! I left a few tubes clear on purpose to see the kill coil, examine air bubbles, etc. The clear blue tubing is difficult to see flow in. When UV gets turned on, they all glow the same color. I'll eventually cut a port in the base of the bay and run two fittings into the res to eliminate that clear tube being exposed that way. I may also add a flow meter in that area.

The GPU plates still have to be fabricated, and a bottom PSU box. I plan on making some acryllic components and revamping the entire right side.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Do you run parallel on everything, the blocks I mean?
> 
> (Nice rig by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Everything is run parallel. With the CPU giving it a spin at the top. My inspiration came from this:


----------



## superericla

How are your CPU temps with everything in parallel like that?


----------



## OmniScience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> How are your CPU temps with everything in parallel like that?


GPU Max: 45 degrees C.

CPU Max: (Prime 95) 55 degrees C on 2 cores, rest sit at 48 (3930K @4200 24/7) on AS-5

When I ran CPU on some crappy XSPC thermal compound I was maxing out at like 61 on the CPU at 100% load. I'll be reapplying something better when I have time.

Only a single D5. It is a bit of a compromise, but the cleanliness and aesthetics of it are worth it!

I'll clock the CPU up to 5.00 one of these days and see where that puts me.

PS: I'm using pretty crappy fans.

RX340: NZXT stock 140's pull, XSPC 1200rpm's push.
RX240: NZXT stock 140's push, Arctic Cooling F12's in pull. All running on fan controller at minimum.

Room temp:25C


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmniScience*
> 
> GPU Max: 45 degrees C.
> CPU Max: (Prime 95) 55 degrees C on 2 cores, rest sit at 48 (3930K @4200 24/7) on AS-5
> When I ran CPU on some crappy XSPC thermal compound I was maxing out at like 61 on the CPU at 100% load. I'll be reapplying something better when I have time.
> *Only a single D5*. It is a bit of a compromise, but the cleanliness and aesthetics of it are worth it!
> I'll clock the CPU up to *5.00* one of these days and see where that puts me.


Single MCP 655 is way enough


----------



## hammerforged

Damn Im unsure about how parallel like that affects performance but that sure is a sexy tubing run. Seems to be doing okay for you though! Nice rig.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> I don't know, that's why I asked but I wouldn't start the pump dry, I would fill my bay res first. I just wondered if it would get the loop primed faster.
> Maybe I'm not getting this across right. I thought to put them on the rad, fill the rad, close the valves, hang the rad, fill the res, open the valves, and turn it on.
> I wondered if this might get the system primed much easier?


This wouldn't help you at all. It just makes filling the loop more complicated plus it is a waste of money. In that moment you opened the valves your pump would just blow the air from the rest of your system into your rad. So just go the common way and don't be afraid of getting the air out. It really does not take that long time. You only have to move/tilt your case a little bit to help the air coming out and stop and start your pump several times. Nothing to worry about








Also would it not look very clean with that ball valves in the middle of your loop. If you already have them use the for a drainage system


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Single MCP 655 is way enough


how do you personally measure whether a pump is enough for the loop?
my head spinned even faster after reading martins guide on it









all I know is dual pump secure your components if one dead
ddc runs hot , noisy but head dump is less than d5/mcp655
and there is a diminishing return as the speed of the flow where there wont be any improvement on the temp yet the heat dump on extra pump would make it run hotter
but which will it be enough is a big question for me

enlighten me sir


----------



## driftingforlife

jokrik, experience


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmniScience*
> 
> Alright guys, here's a "*sneak peak"* at my little setup here. I apologize in advance for the horrendous cell pics, but I'll get a nice photoshoot of my carbon-fibred S-810 when its fully complete, still a lot to get to.
> 
> So here's my *quad-SLI GTX 690 3930K* build. I'm just waiting on a few more of my LED's to come to complete the look
> 
> Top: RX360 P/P
> Modified front: RX240 P/P


dude,,, what is this.. this loop just twisted my mind...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> jokrik, experience


well said! no pain no gain
I will not learn if I didn't have a big leak in the past
now, I can drain and fill without a drop on the floor


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Finally got around to taking some proper pictures of my rig today! No more upgrades for me for a while, watercooling is awesome but it sure is costly!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmniScience*
> 
> Alright guys, here's a "*sneak peak"* at my little setup here. I apologize in advance for the horrendous cell pics, but I'll get a nice photoshoot of my carbon-fibred S-810 when its fully complete, still a lot to get to.
> 
> So here's my *quad-SLI GTX 690 3930K* build. I'm just waiting on a few more of my LED's to come to complete the look
> 
> Top: RX360 P/P
> Modified front: RX240 P/P


Nice builds both of you







...love bue and black


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> how do you personally measure whether a pump is enough for the loop?
> my head spinned even faster after reading martins guide on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all I know is dual pump secure your components if one dead
> ddc runs hot , noisy but head dump is less than d5/mcp655
> and there is a diminishing return as the speed of the flow where there wont be any improvement on the temp yet the heat dump on extra pump would make it run hotter
> but which will it be enough is a big question for me
> 
> enlighten me sir


Because I have used MCP 655 in different systems and different loops,

Actually I am running my 2 x MCP655 in serial at a rate of "*4*" each.

*In the loop I have* :

-Feser X-Changer 480 Radiator
-Feser X-Changer 360 Radiator
-Feser X-Changer 240 Radiator
-EK HF Supreme CPU Block
-Koolance RIVE Vrm Block
-Koolance RIVE PCH Block
-EK FC 7970 Block
-EK FC 7970 Block
-EK FC 7970 Block
-EK FC 7970 Block
-Around 20 x 90' degrees and snake rotary.

I have read many guides and test in many different configurations. And a MCP 655 is Enough for his need even if he set it at 4.
(He has 2 rads, CPU block and 2 x GPU blocks, one is enough







)


----------



## Zamoldac

Finally done
GTX480 waterblock on GTX580 (+washers on the back of the card) FTW


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Because I have used MCP 655 in different systems and different loops,
> 
> Actually I am running my 2 x MCP655 in serial at a rate of "*4*" each.
> 
> *In the loop I have* :
> 
> -Feser X-Changer 480 Radiator
> -Feser X-Changer 360 Radiator
> -Feser X-Changer 240 Radiator
> -EK HF Supreme CPU Block
> -Koolance RIVE Vrm Block
> -Koolance RIVE PCH Block
> -EK FC 7970 Block
> -EK FC 7970 Block
> -EK FC 7970 Block
> -EK FC 7970 Block
> -Around 20 x 90' degrees and snake rotary.
> 
> I have read many guides and test in many different configurations. And a MCP 655 is Enough for his need even if he set it at 4.
> (He has 2 rads, CPU block and 2 x GPU blocks, one is enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


again, the term 'enough' doesnt ring a bell to me








does enough mean, you'll get the same temp result when it set at 4 compare to having it set at 5?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> jokrik, experience












Very true.


----------



## MCCSolutions

JUST A TEASE OF WHATS TO COME


----------



## B NEGATIVE

All that is run by a corsair pump?

Good luck with that.....


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All that is run by a corsair pump?
> 
> Good luck with that.....


Umm... Nurrr, You see that Huge Flojet pump on the back lol. Also It runs at about 22C Idle


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Idle temps are not indicative of anything,Load temps are whats important,be interesting to see what noise that pump produces.

Your screen shot says CPU temp is 28,not 22.


----------



## YowZ

Seeing lots of awesome looks full parallel loops... top stuff. I think I may have started something rad


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Idle temps are not indicative of anything,Load temps are whats important,be interesting to see what noise that pump produces.
> 
> Your screen shot says CPU temp is 28,not 22.


Gosh B-Positive! Lol the pic was the temps on load! Note the frequency of above 4Ghz which indicates it was on a high load at that time because it clocks way down when just sitting Idle.







Oh and by the way my fans are louder than the pump, I currently have the pump operating at a cool and quiet 5v......

And this is the hottest I have gotten it..... Something like 37C


----------



## jokrik

Sneak Peak on my build








still bleeding for the micro bubbles


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Sneak Peak on my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still bleeding for the micro bubbles


Nice!


----------



## fasttracker440

This is my current 600t build running 1/2 in id hose
Phobya Xtreme 200mm Radiator
XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 670 Full Coverage VGA Block
XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Low Profile Split Fin Radiator
Swiftech Apogee HD CPU Waterblock
X2O 750 Bayres/Pump


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Idle temps are not indicative of anything,Load temps are whats important,be interesting to see what noise that pump produces.
> 
> Your screen shot says CPU temp is 28,not 22.
> 
> 
> 
> Gosh B-Positive! Lol the pic was the temps on load! Note the frequency of above 4Ghz which indicates it was on a high load at that time because it clocks way down when just sitting Idle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and by the way my fans are louder than the pump, I currently have the pump operating at a cool and quiet 5v......
> 
> And this is the hottest I have gotten it..... Something like 37C
Click to expand...

37 [email protected] 2.8Ghz?

Yet its 28c load @4Ghz?

Which is it?

How about a screen shot of your rig with IBT running with the temps open?

The reason i ask is that you can get 40c temps with a 4.8 OC......on air.....



Source


----------



## lordhinton

does running a h80i count







, if so


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> This wouldn't help you at all. It just makes filling the loop more complicated plus it is a waste of money. In that moment you opened the valves your pump would just blow the air from the rest of your system into your rad. So just go the common way and don't be afraid of getting the air out. It really does not take that long time. You only have to move/tilt your case a little bit to help the air coming out and stop and start your pump several times. Nothing to worry about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also would it not look very clean with that ball valves in the middle of your loop. If you already have them use the for a drainage system


OK, got it, and thanks for the help. If not for the help of this group it would be nuts reinventing the wheel every time you want to try something!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> does running a h80i count
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , if so


It sure does,welcome to the club


----------



## lordhinton

awsome


----------



## darkapollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSurroundGamr*
> 
> Blue LED?


Yes sir..
I posted the pic a few pages ago.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Umm... Nurrr, You see that Huge Flojet pump on the back lol. Also It runs at about 22C Idle


Put some Ice in the Bacardi


----------



## CrazyCorky

Just saw that some one said running an H80i counts.. Well here is mine. How ever I do want to do a full custom loop. Just really have no idea of where to start or what the cost would be like. I'm using a Corsair C70 Vengeance case. Any tips or points would be awesome!









Sorry for the crappy iphone picture!


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Put some Ice in the Bacardi


I was actually thinking about that earlier^^ Do you know this plastic icerocks wich you can put into the freezer to have a cool drink but not adding water to it? Would look awesome in a tube res but the problem would probably be that due to circulation of the coolant inside the res it would hit the inner walls all the time







So i pushed that idea away so quick as it came


----------



## bundymania

White Series + Noiseblocker PL2 Fans:


----------



## Hokies83

You tested the Alphacool V2 amd blocks how were they?


----------



## Xemaj

This is my first jump into water


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xemaj*
> 
> This is my first jump into water
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have a similar layout but I went from the GPU to the rad then to the CPU. I felt that this would make it a little cleaner looking. It was also my first time but looks good man!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just saw that some one said running an H80i counts.. Well here is mine. How ever I do want to do a full custom loop. *Just really have no idea of where to start or what the cost would be like.* I'm using a Corsair C70 Vengeance case. Any tips or points would be awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the crappy iphone picture!


To answer this honestly, start by taking a really big deep breath, looking at your bank account, and tell it "This is not personal".

Because when your start, the thing is going to be punished.









Truly the XSPC kis are a fantastic place to start, especially the ones with the D5 pumps.


----------



## phillyd

So EK is sending one last batch of the non-CsQ 7950 blocks in a few weeks in case anyone wants some.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So EK is sending one last batch of the non-CsQ 7950 blocks in a few weeks in case anyone wants some.


Do you still receive Links for it? For the Bridge?


----------



## phillyd

I had em ask for some, I'll give you an update when I find out.


----------



## Lazy Bear

After adding a new PSU, adding a second GPU, removing the second GPU, and generally giving up with the rig, it's done, and has been for a while. So here you go.











So yeah.


----------



## KaRLiToS

*@Lazy Bear*







... Freaking nice build dude.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I had em ask for some, I'll give you an update when I find out.


Please let me know, I would take at least two.

I have two triple bridges, one serial and the other parallel but no links for it.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Thanks, that's huge, coming from you.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Thanks, that's huge, coming from you.


From what I'm seeing, I'm no better than you bud


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> I was actually thinking about that earlier^^ Do you know this plastic icerocks wich you can put into the freezer to have a cool drink but not adding water to it? Would look awesome in a tube res but the problem would probably be that due to circulation of the coolant inside the res it would hit the inner walls all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i pushed that idea away so quick as it came


Funnily enough I had a vision today - it may sound ridiculous but imagine you got one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Caldura-litre-Compact-Fridge-White/dp/B004DVVSKI/ref=sr_1_2?s=appliances&ie=UTF8&qid=1362342506&sr=1-2 drilled a hole through the door and stuck a decent sized radiator inside? You could keep your drinks inside and have your rig as cool as cucumber


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> From what I'm seeing, I'm no better than you bud


I don't have much experience, if any, and I don't have easy access to metal cutting and stuff like that. If I had more resources I could do more, but I just can't. I am hoping that my new rig will turn out a lot better. This time, for example, I'll actually paint the rads!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 37 [email protected] 2.8Ghz?
> 
> Yet its 28c load @4Ghz?
> 
> Which is it?
> 
> How about a screen shot of your rig with IBT running with the temps open?
> 
> The reason i ask is that you can get 40c temps with a 4.8 OC......on air.....
> 
> 
> 
> Source


Ok listen, you know that the processor clocks according to load rite?! (AMD Cool n' Quiet) I ran a 3d Mark full bench and after it nwas finished(It runs full screen) I took a pic, so by that point(afew secons) It had already began to clock down as it should. Im only about 35% done with the build and havent really ran more tests, but dont worry I will run a whole berage as soon as I finish!





















And I will take a freakin pic with a laser thermomitor while funning on my big 60Inch tv in the background if it will make you happy.......

BTW...


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got around to taking some proper pictures of my rig today! No more upgrades for me for a while, watercooling is awesome but it sure is costly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of a cool shot


Sexy RIG!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> does running a h80i count
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , if so


whats that tower?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Only read to post 38530. Been going since friday at 730pm. Its sunday 410pm
I hate koolance fittings. Passed an 8 hour leak test then a barb decided to leak when i put my ssd/hdds in. They replaced 2 danger dens that decided they were going to start de-chroming after 2 weeks. Only using bp fittings now. I have learned my lesson.
On to the point, has anyone seen an xt45 360 in the top of a corsair 500r? I saw 1 last night.
I'll get some pics up after i find a camera. Mad props to ppcs for getting me all my parts quick and complete. 1 more order for a 670 dc2 block and fittings and i can do some real cable management.


----------



## darkapollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ok listen, you know that the processor clocks according to load rite?! (AMD Cool n' Quiet) I ran a 3d Mark full bench and after it nwas finished(It runs full screen) I took a pic, so by that point(afew secons) It had already began to clock down as it should. Im only about 35% done with the build and havent really ran more tests, but dont worry I will run a whole berage as soon as I finish!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I will take a freakin pic with a laser thermomitor while funning on my big 60Inch tv in the background if it will make you happy.......
> 
> BTW...


Rule of thumb is turn off CnQ.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkapollo*
> 
> Rule of thumb is turn off CnQ.


Yea I will when I go to OC it but not really worried about it being on right now....







More concerned with finishing the build.


----------



## lordhinton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Sexy RIG!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whats that tower?


that tower is one of these \/

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/cit-vantage-type-r-gaming-case-black-hd-4x120mm-red-fans-card-reader-w-o-psu

brought it a while back, had my pc in there whilst i made the h80i fit in my core1000

btw those fans are just stood there and not mounted down









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> After adding a new PSU, adding a second GPU, removing the second GPU, and generally giving up with the rig, it's done, and has been for a while. So here you go.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah.


what a sexy build!

Mod edit: Please use the edit button instead of double posting, also please use spoiler code when quoting more than one image.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 37 [email protected] 2.8Ghz?
> 
> Yet its 28c load @4Ghz?
> 
> Which is it?
> 
> How about a screen shot of your rig with IBT running with the temps open?
> 
> The reason i ask is that you can get 40c temps with a 4.8 OC......on air.....
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> 
> 
> 
> Ok listen, you know that the processor clocks according to load rite?! (AMD Cool n' Quiet) I ran a 3d Mark full bench and after it nwas finished(It runs full screen) I took a pic, so by that point(afew secons) It had already began to clock down as it should. Im only about 35% done with the build and havent really ran more tests, but dont worry I will run a whole berage as soon as I finish!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I will take a freakin pic with a laser thermomitor while funning on my big 60Inch tv in the background if it will make you happy.......
> 
> BTW...
Click to expand...

Right.

1. 3dmark is not a CPU load tester,IBT or Prime95 are CPU stress testers...which makes the air oc i quoted even more impressive as he matches your temps using a far superior testing program that actually loads all the cores and pushes them hard.

2. I was only inquiring about temps so no need for the attitude.

3. Discussing temps are not off topic and I dont need you to tell me what is on topic for this thread.

4. You have already claimed that the 28c was a load temp,which is ridiculous seeing as you have posted pics of a 37c temp so its safe to assume CnQ is off and you reported a idle temp or the load was not anything like a stress test,the clocks in that show CnQ not engaged and the chip running at 4ghz

You have already had posts removed for your attitude,just stop now and grow up,how about run IBT and get your real temps?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *@Lazy Bear*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Freaking nice build dude.


+1

Nice work,shame you had to use anti kink coils tho.


----------



## kcuestag

How does a 420mm rad (3x140) vs 360mm (3x120) compare in surface/cooling area?

I'm considering upgrading to an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm radiator in a month or two, and also planning to upgrade the bottom HWLabs 240mm rad for a XSPC RX240 most likely.

Also, what fans would you suggest for 140mm size? I'm only familiar with 120mm fans like AP-15's or Corsair SP-120's, I don't know any similar fans to these but in 140mm size.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How does a 420mm rad (3x140) vs 360mm (3x120) compare in surface/cooling area?
> 
> I'm considering upgrading to an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm radiator in a month or two, and also planning to upgrade the bottom HWLabs 240mm rad for a XSPC RX240 most likely.
> 
> Also, what fans would you suggest for 140mm size? I'm only familiar with 120mm fans like AP-15's or Corsair SP-120's, I don't know any similar fans to these but in 140mm size.


If the depth of the rad is the same and the FPI is the same then the 140 will pull away,I use the 140 Corsairs and im very pleased with them performance wise

You wont see any difference worth mentioning between the HWL SR rad and the RX,if its a GTX you are putting in there then you should gain improvement.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Black Ice GTX Gen 2 or NexXxos UT60 or NexXxos Monsta... Somebody breakdown those choices for me I can't seem to decide. I have room for 240/360/480/480 all at once with my SM8 case plus pedestal with my current hardware. I want to run GT AP-15 or Swiftech Helix PWM or GT AP-29 fans with the PWM mod. I'm cooling a RIVE mobo, a 3930K, and a 680 lightning.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Black Ice GTX Gen 2 or NexXxos UT60 or NexXxos Monsta... Somebody breakdown those choices for me I can't seem to decide. I have room for 240/360/480/480 all at once with my SM8 case plus pedestal with my current hardware. I want to run GT AP-15 or Swiftech Helix PWM or GT AP-29 fans with the PWM mod.


Personally,i would go with the UT60,others in this thread will say the Monsta.

If you want outright cooling performance then the GTX is hard to beat with good fans.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Yea the Monsta might be loud? I mean if I want that I could just get the GTX2. And I don't have room for push pull in have my locations. My main choices seem to be the UT60 or GTX2. The desire to pair the GT AP-29s with the GTX2 seems to make so much sense since with the PWM mod they start at 1250rpm and go to 3000rpm... Sounds good for that rad no? But I read these are better built but the UT60 is better performing/ranging... And that the SR-1 is limited in focus/range.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If the depth of the rad is the same and the FPI is the same then the 140 will pull away,I use the 140 Corsairs and im very pleased with them performance wise
> 
> You wont see any difference worth mentioning between the HWL SR rad and the RX,if its a GTX you are putting in there then you should gain improvement.


Wait, do the SP series exist for 140mm fans? I can only find AF-140.

Also, it's a HWL Black Ice GTS 240 that I'm using right now, should I keep it? Would save a lot of money.


----------



## Mandrake7062

You guys know a lot more about cooling then I do but I can tell ya that I'm real happy with these Noctua fans, they are quiet and throw a lot of air.
The whole fan feels like an aniti-vibration device.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So EK is sending one last batch of the non-CsQ 7950 blocks in a few weeks in case anyone wants some.


Well I want them to send a batch of NON-CSQ _*680*_ blocks! pfft
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> After adding a new PSU, adding a second GPU, removing the second GPU, and generally giving up with the rig, it's done, and has been for a while. So here you go.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah.


And after that I want a peppermint...








I'll admit, I'm not typically a fan of the anti-kink coils - but in your rig they are just right - it wouldn't be the same without em!


----------



## TheSurroundGamr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> After adding a new PSU, adding a second GPU, removing the second GPU, and generally giving up with the rig, it's done, and has been for a while. So here you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah.


Minty-ffreaking-ffresh!! +rep


----------



## Red1776

Going to start wires/sleeving, but I wanted to solve running the GPU's in parallel this time around. For those considering this, it takes a huge amount of flow to run parallel WC'ing with 4 x GPU's. I added a third pump to the 2 x 2X VPP-655 Pumps as the first connection on the out side of the Multi-Link Bridge and it stopped any air from being collected inside the GPU blocks. Temps are 26c at idle and have not gone over 39c.





[email protected]/
Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)/
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz/
4 X HD 7970 Quadfire /
1x Corsiar AX1200W/
2x FSP Group X5 1000W/
1XNexXxos XT45 360mm/
2 x NexXxos XT45 240mm/
1xNexXxos XT45 120mm Rads/
2X VPP-655 Pumps/
1X Phobya DC-12-400
Koolance 370 CPU Block/
4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks/
Rad Fans Coolermaster Excaliber/
Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings/
Primochill Tubing/
Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2/
Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
/BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir/
Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors


----------



## TheSurroundGamr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Going to start wires/sleeving, but I wanted to solve running the GPU's in parallel this time around. For those considering this, it takes a huge amount of flow to run parallel WC'ing with 4 x GPU's. I added a third pump to the 2 x 2X VPP-655 Pumps as the first connection on the out side of the Multi-Link Bridge and it stopped any air from being collected inside the GPU blocks. Temps are 26c at idle and have not gone over 39c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]/
> Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)/
> 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz/
> 4 X HD 7970 Quadfire /
> 1x Corsiar AX1200W/
> 2x FSP Group X5 1000W/
> 1XNexXxos XT45 360mm/
> 2 x NexXxos XT45 240mm/
> 1xNexXxos XT45 120mm Rads/
> 2X VPP-655 Pumps/
> 1X Phobya DC-12-400
> Koolance 370 CPU Block/
> 4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks/
> Rad Fans Coolermaster Excaliber/
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings/
> Primochill Tubing/
> Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2/
> Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
> /BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir/
> Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Going to start wires/sleeving, but I wanted to solve running the GPU's in parallel this time around. For those considering this, it takes a huge amount of flow to run parallel WC'ing with 4 x GPU's. I added a third pump to the 2 x 2X VPP-655 Pumps as the first connection on the out side of the Multi-Link Bridge and it stopped any air from being collected inside the GPU blocks. Temps are 26c at idle and have not gone over 39c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]/
> Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)/
> 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz/
> 4 X HD 7970 Quadfire /
> 1x Corsiar AX1200W/
> 2x FSP Group X5 1000W/
> 1XNexXxos XT45 360mm/
> 2 x NexXxos XT45 240mm/
> 1xNexXxos XT45 120mm Rads/
> 2X VPP-655 Pumps/
> 1X Phobya DC-12-400
> Koolance 370 CPU Block/
> 4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks/
> Rad Fans Coolermaster Excaliber/
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings/
> Primochill Tubing/
> Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2/
> Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
> /BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir/
> Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors


Nice setup!


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Hey guys, is this a little over kill!
> 840mm
> 
> 
> these look good


Another Croweater









You didn't show the fittings and pumps on OCAU









But i'm watching ya


----------



## SamNicko

EPIC Rig







by Red1776


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Right.
> 
> 1. 3dmark is not a CPU load tester,IBT or Prime95 are CPU stress testers...which makes the air oc i quoted even more impressive as he matches your temps using a far superior testing program that actually loads all the cores and pushes them hard.
> 
> 2. I was only inquiring about temps so no need for the attitude.
> 
> 3. Discussing temps are not off topic and I dont need you to tell me what is on topic for this thread.
> 
> 4. You have already claimed that the 28c was a load temp,which is ridiculous seeing as you have posted pics of a 37c temp so its safe to assume CnQ is off and you reported a idle temp or the load was not anything like a stress test,the clocks in that show CnQ not engaged and the chip running at 4ghz
> 
> You have already had posts removed for your attitude,just stop now and grow up,how about run IBT and get your real temps?
> +1
> 
> 
> 
> Not true at all 3d mark(Futuremark) runs two CPU Benches one "This test features a high-intensity workload of co-operative path-finding artificial intelligence calculations. The test setting is an aerial race course crowded with planes all attempting to navigate a series of gates while avoiding collisions. The workload is parallelized, and can utilize multi-core CPUs." The second one is "This test features a heavy physics workload. Planes trailing smoke collide with various cloth and soft-body obstacles, each other, and the ground. The smoke spreads, and reacts to the planes passing through it. GPU physics acceleration is disabled by default for this test." From my experiance of using this it works quite well at maxing out the processors!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And your number "4" comment does not make any sence and contadicts its self lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my one post was not removed for an attitude and its ill informed perople like you who put dangerious miss information out to noobs!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But its all good no harm no foul im not mad at cha! Oh and that is off topic becuase this is a "Water cooling Picture Gallery"
Click to expand...

Dangerous misinformation? Explain?

You have been told by members already this is not the case,I don't give bad advice and certainly don't give dangerous advice.
Your,now obvious,attempts at trolling will gain nothing here.
Others are telling you the same thing as I am and to say im illinformed is laughable.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Yea there nice but it seems like your just paying for the name sometimes..... Not all there stuff is good...


Pretty sure that can be said for any brand...not just one.


----------



## MURDoctrine

I love how he is arguing with the thread starter about being on topic or not.......

Anyhow just let them be I guess B Negative its obvious you are talking to a brick wall.

Back on topic more WC PRON!

My new heatkiller block on my 670


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Lovely blocks,I have 3 of those for my 670s,block pron at its finest.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If the depth of the rad is the same and the FPI is the same then the 140 will pull away,I use the 140 Corsairs and im very pleased with them performance wise
> 
> You wont see any difference worth mentioning between the HWL SR rad and the RX,if its a GTX you are putting in there then you should gain improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, do the SP series exist for 140mm fans? I can only find AF-140.
> 
> Also, it's a HWL Black Ice GTS 240 that I'm using right now, should I keep it? Would save a lot of money.
Click to expand...

No, I don't believe there are 140mm SP variants. Only AF. I can't even find a high performance versions, only quiet editions.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> No, I don't believe there are 140mm SP variants. Only AF. I can't even find a high performance versions, only quiet editions.


I noticed, not really sure if I should then move to a 420 rad or not, I don't want to use the AF-140 as those aren't as good for rads, any other good 140mm fans similar to AP-15's or SP-120's?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If the depth of the rad is the same and the FPI is the same then the 140 will pull away,I use the 140 Corsairs and im very pleased with them performance wise
> 
> You wont see any difference worth mentioning between the HWL SR rad and the RX,if its a GTX you are putting in there then you should gain improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, do the SP series exist for 140mm fans? I can only find AF-140.
> 
> Also, it's a HWL Black Ice GTS 240 that I'm using right now, should I keep it? Would save a lot of money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *No, I don't believe there are 140mm SP variants*. Only AF. I can't even find a high performance versions, only quiet editions.
Click to expand...

Correct....but.....on a low FPI rad static pressure is not of massive importance,I have seen other builds where AF's have been used on rads and the performance has been pretty good.
If i had a 140 rad here i would do some comparative testing,It would be interesting to see the difference in a real world application.

You could go for a 140 rad and use a 120/140 shroud? Best of both worlds,good fan choices and a better performing rad,you would be limited to how you mount your rad however.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Correct....but.....on a low FPI rad static pressure is not of massive importance,I have seen other builds where AF's have been used on rads and the performance has been pretty good.
> If i had a 140 rad here i would do some comparative testing,It would be interesting to see the difference in a real world application.
> 
> You could go for a 140 rad and use a 120/140 shroud? Best of both worlds,good fan choices and a better performing rad,you would be limited to how you mount your rad however.


Would the Alphachool Nexxxos UT60 420mm be good enough for those AF-140's? Can I expect an improvement over my current EK CoolStream XT360 with AP-15's?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Correct....but.....on a low FPI rad static pressure is not of massive importance,I have seen other builds where AF's have been used on rads and the performance has been pretty good.
> If i had a 140 rad here i would do some comparative testing,It would be interesting to see the difference in a real world application.
> 
> You could go for a 140 rad and use a 120/140 shroud? Best of both worlds,good fan choices and a better performing rad,you would be limited to how you mount your rad however.
> 
> 
> 
> Would the Alphachool Nexxxos UT60 420mm be good enough for those AF-140's? Can I expect an improvement over my current EK CoolStream XT360 with AP-15's?
Click to expand...

I cant answer that with any certainty,the UT is a better rad than the EK offering but AP-15's are the better fan on rads.

If i was pushed for an answer then I would probably go for the 140 rad with the Corsairs.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I cant answer that with any certainty,the UT is a better rad than the EK offering but AP-15's are the better fan on rads.
> 
> If i was pushed for an answer then I would probably go for the 140 rad with the Corsairs.


Thanks, too bad we don't have SP-140's or AP-15's for 140mm.









I'm still not sure what to do, I thought of going for a 480mm rad on top but that would require case modding which I do not want to do, decissions....

Might just add a 120mm on the rear exhaust fan and call it a day.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I cant answer that with any certainty,the UT is a better rad than the EK offering but AP-15's are the better fan on rads.
> 
> If i was pushed for an answer then I would probably go for the 140 rad with the Corsairs.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, too bad we don't have SP-140's or AP-15's for 140mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still not sure what to do, I thought of going for a 480mm rad on top but that would require case modding which I do not want to do, decissions....
> 
> *Might just add a 120mm on the rear exhaust fan and call it a day*.
Click to expand...

You are not short on rad space as it is Kcue,this is probably your best bet,save the pennies for something with a more tangible performance increase.

140 fans are coming slowly,give it another few months and i should think your fan options will increase


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are not short on rad space as it is Kcue,this is probably your best bet,save the pennies for something with a more tangible performance increase.
> 
> 140 fans are coming slowly,give it another few months and i should think your fan options will increase


Thanks, the truth is the computer is just good as it is, I have a nice overclock of 4.7GHz which never goes above 70ºC while playing heavily demanding games like Crysis 3 or Battlefield 3, and the GPU's hardly reach above 45ºC while overclocked.

I'll wait a bit for more 140mm fans to come into the market, maybe/hopefully we'll see some SP-140 fans soon.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are not short on rad space as it is Kcue,this is probably your best bet,save the pennies for something with a more tangible performance increase.
> 
> 140 fans are coming slowly,give it another few months and i should think your fan options will increase
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, the truth is the computer is just good as it is, I have a nice overclock of 4.7GHz which never goes above 70ºC while playing heavily demanding games like Crysis 3 or Battlefield 3, and the GPU's hardly reach above 45ºC while overclocked.
> 
> I'll wait a bit for more 140mm fans to come into the market, maybe/hopefully we'll see some SP-140 fans soon.
Click to expand...

I have a XSPC EX 120 sitting here you can have,I can pack it with the D5 ring?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have a XSPC EX 120 sitting here you can have,I can pack it with the D5 ring?


Did someone ever tell you how nice you are?









No longer need the ring by the way, I ended up getting the Acrylic version of the XSPC Dual Bay reservoir which doesn't require it, and I love it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have a XSPC EX 120 sitting here you can have,I can pack it with the D5 ring?
> 
> 
> 
> *Did someone ever tell you how nice you are?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No longer need the ring by the way, I ended up getting the Acrylic version of the XSPC Dual Bay reservoir which doesn't require it, and I love it.
Click to expand...

No,normally im a member hell bent on destroying loops with 'dangerous advice' apparently........

Those that know me know different Kcue.

I still have your addy and will get the rad off to you Weds.

Choose your colour mate.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,normally im a member hell bent on destroying loops with 'dangerous advice' apparently........
> 
> Those that know me know different Kcue.
> 
> I still have your addy and will get the rad off to you Weds.
> 
> Choose your colour mate.


Much appreciated, I definitely look forward to following your dangerous advices in the future!









Edit:

Holy batman those are lot of rads! Haha, definitely black.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

I'll have the Yellow one if you are giving them away.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> I'll have the Yellow one if you are giving them away.


Bloody hell Waffle! you were in there quick!
I can spare the yellow for you mate,no problem.


----------



## kcuestag

The yellow surely looks "different", it would be odd to have any of those coloured rads on my build, with the exception of the grey metallic on the right.


----------



## Meisseli

B neg! If your giving them away then i'm up for that red one!


----------



## kcuestag

Look what you've done Waffle!


----------



## Crooksy

Hahaha


----------



## Nornam

B Negs.... "*Dangerous* Rad Lucky Dip"..... hehe









N.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bloody hell Waffle! you were in there quick!
> I can spare the yellow for you mate,no problem.












You have a PM buddy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The yellow surely looks "different", it would be odd to have any of those coloured rads on my build, with the exception of the grey metallic on the right.


I want to build my girlfriend a rig for when she goes off to Uni in September. A while away but it's nice to prepare, she loves frogs and the colour green, I'm thinking a green/yellow frog themed watercooling build.









She's been stuck with this forever, and now she's getting into gaming more (Portal 2/Trine/Magika/Sims (obviously)) it really does struggle. Hell, it struggles browsing. I'd like to get her an Intel quad with 8/16GB DDR3 and a GTX580+. At least. This could be the first step to an awesome build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Look what you've done Waffle!


----------



## Neo Zuko

That red one is boss, I would buy that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> B Negs.... "*Dangerous* Rad Lucky Dip"..... hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


Hey Nam! Wassup mate?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> That red one is boss, I would buy that.


Send a mail to XSPC,they would be glad to hear that,they didnt go with these colours because (as far as i know) they were not sure of how they would be received.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hey Nam! Wassup mate?


All good me old mucker...







... Sorry couldn't help myself.. Been laughing like a loon when I saw the remark about you giving DANGEROUS info.... Ain't life a hoot at times







...

I know where I go when I need to ask for advice especially after meeting you & having the crack.. Soooooo Keep on trucking Dude & keeping me entertained







...

N.


----------



## bomberjun

Working on it..

Cosmos 2 with dual 360, 240, stacked 140, 120
Radiators project.


----------



## Sashimi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Working on it..
> 
> Cosmos 2 with dual 360, 240, stacked 140, 120
> Radiators project.


Jesus that's a whole lot of rads inside one case.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,normally im a member hell bent on destroying loops with 'dangerous advice' apparently........
> 
> Choose your colour mate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you're giving them away I'd gladly take one off your hands. Color really doesn't matter


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,normally im a member hell bent on destroying loops with 'dangerous advice' apparently........
> 
> Choose your colour mate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're giving them away I'd gladly take one off your hands. Color really doesn't matter
Click to expand...

Im in the UK,by the time i have posted it,it would probably cost more than what the rad is worth mate.
I can have a look at postage if you really want?


----------



## Fieel

I have a question!

My current loop has a CPU block, mosfet, southbridge and RAM blocks. It has two single 120mm radiators and one 240mm radiator, it cools everything okay for now..

Now, my GTX Titan is on the way and i'm waiting for the EK-plexi-nickel block to put it underwater. I was planning to add a XSPC low FPI (900rpm fans) 360mm (60mm thick) radiator on the back - outside - of the case just for the GPU heat-load.

My question is: *Will my CPU-mobo-ram heat up the graphic card, or will my GPU heat up everything else? In this case should i go for a second loop just for the GPU?* Because i'd be happy to go with a single loop, more clean and aesthetically appealing


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> I have a question!
> 
> My current loop has a CPU block, mosfet, southbridge and RAM blocks. It has two single 120mm radiators and one 240mm radiator, it cools everything okay for now..
> 
> Now, my GTX Titan is on the way and i'm waiting for the EK-plexi-nickel block to put it underwater. I was planning to add a XSPC low FPI (900rpm fans) 360mm (60mm thick) radiator on the back - outside - of the case just for the GPU heat-load.
> 
> My question is: *Will my CPU-mobo-ram heat up the graphic card, or will my GPU heat up everything else? In this case should i go for a second loop just for the GPU?* Because i'd be happy to go with a single loop, more clean and aesthetically appealing


I got Far Cry 3 a couple of months ago and never really got into but played it last night and my GTX 690 produced SCAREY amounts of heat - it was so hot I could hardly touch it. If your Titan is anything like the 690 I suggest a separate loop. I guess the obvious thing to do would be to run it on air for a while ?and check the heat output before deciding


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im in the UK,by the time i have posted it,it would probably cost more than what the rad is worth mate.
> I can have a look at postage if you really want?


I didn't think of that. I wouldn't worry about it then. Thanks for the offer though


----------



## Crooksy

I'm in the UK *cough*


----------



## Meisseli

Hey B-neg! I'm in Finland so could you look up those postals for me for that red one?
Thanks!

Meisseli


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I got Far Cry 3 a couple of months ago and never really got into but played it last night and my GTX 690 produced SCAREY amounts of heat - it was so hot I could hardly touch it. If your Titan is anything like the 690 I suggest a separate loop. I guess the obvious thing to do would be to run it on air for a while ?and check the heat output before deciding


Yeah, i'll run on air for a while anyways, so i'll get a general idea. Other opinions guys?









edit for B-NEG: I guess that it will cost a lot from the UK to the Switzerland for the metallic azure one?


----------



## S1lv3rflame

So. I am ofc, gonna add more gpu's, but regarding the loop. What SLI Bridge thing should i add to Universal blocks?

I tried bending the tubes... Dident work.
What is the solution?

//S1lv3r

P.S. Its gonna be a total of 4, 670 PE on the http://www.asus.com/Motherboard/MAXIMUS_V_EXTREME/ board, with an i7 3770k, and wc ram (Corsair Platinium 2400)


----------



## morencyam

Swiftech makes a bridge for universal blocks that would work. They come in different sizes depending on your card spacing.


----------



## Pawelr98

I'd like to take one of those 120mm rads







.

And finally my d5 arrived.

And it's waiting for the rest of stuff.


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Working on it..
> 
> Cosmos 2 with dual 360, 240, stacked 140, 120
> Radiators project.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Going to look Sick!!! I loved your 800D build log, will be doing something similar with my own 800D. Are you going to make a build log for the Cosmos 2 as well?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Guys,no more rad requests,I have given away the 2 that i didnt need,maybe you will be lucky on the next package i get.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Swiftech makes a bridge for universal blocks that would work. They come in different sizes depending on your card spacing.


Nice. Tho, what about EU shop? It will cost me 150% to get it shipped to Denmark :/ And i will need a quad bridge one day, and i just saw that that bridge is limited to 3way.


----------



## sebar

Hi guys, I figured I had better get some picks of my new build up before my hardware gets obsolete.









I would like to thank B NEGATIVE for all the help when I was planning my system. Your Pipebending thread saved the day.









Here is the C70 build that I have been calling Blackout.
Specs:
I5-3570K
MSI MPOWER Motherboard
EVGA GTX 670 FTW
Mushkin Ridgeback RAM
Corsair AX650 PSU
Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD
Seagate Barracuda 360GB HDD

I am using 12mm copper tubing and Bitspower Crystal Link SLI fittings on the water loop. Flow goes RES-PUMP-RX240-GPU-CPU-EX240-RES


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I figured I had better get some picks of my new build up before my hardware gets obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to thank B NEGATIVE for all the help when I was planning my system. Your Pipebending threat saved the day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the C70 build that I have been calling Blackout.
> Specs:
> I5-3570K
> MSI MPOWER Motherboard
> EVGA GTX 670 FTW
> Mushkin Ridgeback RAM
> Corsair AX650 PSU
> Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD
> Seagate Barracuda 360GB HDD
> 
> I am using 12mm copper tubing and Bitspower Crystal Link SLI fittings on the water loop. Flow goes RES-PUMP-RX240-GPU-CPU-EX240-RES
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet job man, prefer the red version!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I figured I had better get some picks of my new build up before my hardware gets obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to thank B NEGATIVE for all the help when I was planning my system. Your Pipebending threat saved the day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the C70 build that I have been calling Blackout.
> Specs:
> I5-3570K
> MSI MPOWER Motherboard
> EVGA GTX 670 FTW
> Mushkin Ridgeback RAM
> Corsair AX650 PSU
> Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD
> Seagate Barracuda 360GB HDD
> 
> I am using 12mm copper tubing and Bitspower Crystal Link SLI fittings on the water loop. Flow goes RES-PUMP-RX240-GPU-CPU-EX240-RES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Like BAWS SEBAR!

Looks cracking man!


----------



## driftingforlife

That is sexy


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I figured I had better get some picks of my new build up before my hardware gets obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to thank B NEGATIVE for all the help when I was planning my system. Your Pipebending threat saved the day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the C70 build that I have been calling Blackout.
> Specs:
> I5-3570K
> MSI MPOWER Motherboard
> EVGA GTX 670 FTW
> Mushkin Ridgeback RAM
> Corsair AX650 PSU
> Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD
> Seagate Barracuda 360GB HDD
> 
> I am using 12mm copper tubing and Bitspower Crystal Link SLI fittings on the water loop. Flow goes RES-PUMP-RX240-GPU-CPU-EX240-RES


nice one









How are that Enermax fans for rads btw?


----------



## skyn3t

Hey guys here is my mini V3 T-inv3ted MoD case work log in going on now
*[Case Mod ] T-inv3rted ITX Work Log.*
if you guys can give some input i will be happy to listening









just a quick preview


----------



## sebar

Thanks guys, this was a very fun build. The sad thing is I am already starting to think of upgrades.









I think the overwelming majority of people like the red LED's over the blue. I think they both look sick and am going to try green as soon as I get a chance. I would love to be able to do an RGB LED's and change the color of the LED's.

The Enermax fans are good, at full speed they are a little loud but the performance at lower fan speeds has been good so far.


----------



## TSXmike

nearly there.


----------



## PinzaC55

TSXmike, what is that keyboard? I love the contrast of the orange and black.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> I have a question!
> 
> My current loop has a CPU block, mosfet, southbridge and RAM blocks. It has two single 120mm radiators and one 240mm radiator, it cools everything okay for now..
> 
> Now, my GTX Titan is on the way and i'm waiting for the EK-plexi-nickel block to put it underwater. I was planning to add a XSPC low FPI (900rpm fans) 360mm (60mm thick) radiator on the back - outside - of the case just for the GPU heat-load.
> 
> My question is: *Will my CPU-mobo-ram heat up the graphic card, or will my GPU heat up everything else? In this case should i go for a second loop just for the GPU?* Because i'd be happy to go with a single loop, more clean and aesthetically appealing


quoting my question


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> TSXmike, what is that keyboard? I love the contrast of the orange and black.


Logitech G710+


----------



## Arknoodle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> Logitech G710+


Love that keyboard been using it for about 3 months now, no regrets


----------



## King Lycan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I figured I had better get some picks of my new build up before my hardware gets obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to thank B NEGATIVE for all the help when I was planning my system. Your Pipebending threat saved the day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the C70 build that I have been calling Blackout.
> Specs:
> I5-3570K
> MSI MPOWER Motherboard
> EVGA GTX 670 FTW
> Mushkin Ridgeback RAM
> Corsair AX650 PSU
> Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD
> Seagate Barracuda 360GB HDD
> 
> I am using 12mm copper tubing and Bitspower Crystal Link SLI fittings on the water loop. Flow goes RES-PUMP-RX240-GPU-CPU-EX240-RES
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow both color themes are sexy but I prefer the red what tubing and size are you using ?


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Swiftech makes a bridge for universal blocks that would work. They come in different sizes depending on your card spacing.


I use one of their universal bridges and their universal blocks on my 560ti's with 3 slot spacing. Works great and lines up perfectly. Only downside is that you have to assemble it all out of the case and then lower the cards and the link in as one whole assembly, but that's not that big of a deal.

Unfortunately I don't have any good pictures of it, perhaps I can get some later if you'd like.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arknoodle*
> 
> Love that keyboard been using it for about 3 months now, no regrets


I want to try one out, but the two different style of switch's sounds like it would be a love it or hate it thing.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> quoting my question


Everything will heat up everything, although so long as you have adequate radiator space and can maintain a Delta-T of <10C, you shouldn't have to worry about any of that. Going with two loops is an expensive proposition that is very very rarely of any benefit, and when it is, it's primarily for Folders and others that only ever stress one component (or one series of components) and do so enough that it would actually cause the others' temps to rise (such as a CPU running barely more than idle, but 4x GTX580's OC'd to within an inch of their life running 100% 24/7).

Radiator placement in the loop doesn't even matter that much, although i like to have one radiator near the "end" and one near the "beginning" just because it makes me feel better







I personally go CPU - 420 - GPU - 240 - res - res - pumps, and I'll be adding a MIPS RIVE Block Kit in there after the CPU, and a second GPU, but the order remains the same.
Honestly, that wasn't even my intended loop order, as there wasn't going to be a radiator "between" the CPU and GPU, but I had to reverse everything and that's what it ended up as. The temp difference is maybe 1-2C lower, IF that, but not enough to worry about.

If I were you, I'd run your loop as: pump - CPU - VRM/MB - RAM - GPU and just stick the radiators wherever they fit best with the least amount of tubing. You'll get great temps provided you have at least the equivalent of a 480 or so, although I would think a 360 could manage.

Good luck!


----------



## Arknoodle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I want to try one out, but the two different style of switch's sounds like it would be a love it or hate it thing.


Honestly it's not even noticeable and the orings they put on each key to dampen the sound really help a lot with sound if you don't live alone plus who can resist that crisp white back lighting









Oh also anyone wanna trade my msi PE 670 for an Evga ftw sc2 670? I know it's off topic but I'd love to get my gpu under water


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> quoting my question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything will heat up everything, although so long as you have adequate radiator space and can maintain a Delta-T of <10C, you shouldn't have to worry about any of that. Going with two loops is an expensive proposition that is very very rarely of any benefit, and when it is, it's primarily for Folders and others that only ever stress one component (or one series of components) and do so enough that it would actually cause the others' temps to rise (such as a CPU running barely more than idle, but 4x GTX580's OC'd to within an inch of their life running 100% 24/7).
> 
> Radiator placement in the loop doesn't even matter that much, although i like to have one radiator near the "end" and one near the "beginning" just because it makes me feel better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally go CPU - 420 - GPU - 240 - res - res - pumps, and I'll be adding a MIPS RIVE Block Kit in there after the CPU, and a second GPU, but the order remains the same.
> Honestly, that wasn't even my intended loop order, as there wasn't going to be a radiator "between" the CPU and GPU, but I had to reverse everything and that's what it ended up as. The temp difference is maybe 1-2C lower, IF that, but not enough to worry about.
> 
> If I were you, I'd run your loop as: pump - CPU - VRM/MB - RAM - GPU and just stick the radiators wherever they fit best with the least amount of tubing. You'll get great temps provided you have at least the equivalent of a 480 or so, although I would think a 360 could manage.
> 
> Good luck!
Click to expand...

Well constructed and reasoned,a post after my own heart. +rep


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Everything will heat up everything, although so long as you have adequate radiator space and can maintain a Delta-T of <10C, you shouldn't have to worry about any of that. Going with two loops is an expensive proposition that is very very rarely of any benefit, and when it is, it's primarily for Folders and others that only ever stress one component (or one series of components) and do so enough that it would actually cause the others' temps to rise (such as a CPU running barely more than idle, but 4x GTX580's OC'd to within an inch of their life running 100% 24/7).
> 
> Radiator placement in the loop doesn't even matter that much, although i like to have one radiator near the "end" and one near the "beginning" just because it makes me feel better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally go CPU - 420 - GPU - 240 - res - res - pumps, and I'll be adding a MIPS RIVE Block Kit in there after the CPU, and a second GPU, but the order remains the same.
> Honestly, that wasn't even my intended loop order, as there wasn't going to be a radiator "between" the CPU and GPU, but I had to reverse everything and that's what it ended up as. The temp difference is maybe 1-2C lower, IF that, but not enough to worry about.
> 
> If I were you, I'd run your loop as: pump - CPU - VRM/MB - RAM - GPU and just stick the radiators wherever they fit best with the least amount of tubing. You'll get great temps provided you have at least the equivalent of a 480 or so, although I would think a 360 could manage.
> 
> Good luck!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well constructed and reasoned,a post after my own heart. +rep


Thank you both for your inputs on here. Just added a 140 rad to my 360 rad to help me cool my 680s and cpu. Aquacomp GPU blocks are arriving today, but I'm confident and content with my raddage choice for now.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Wow...so after spending time today looking at/talking about getting back into watercooling, tonight I won a Phobia UltraBig case in Aquatuning UK's Facebook competition, which has support for an *absolutely* _*insane*_ amount of radiators. Fate?

I have no idea what to do with it. Might save up and do that SR-2 build I've always dreamed of...









But yeah, I'm a very happy chappy indeed.


----------



## PCModderMike

Wow that thing is big, ultra big! Congrats. Be careful with those fingerprints though.


----------



## 8492

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Wow...so after spending time today looking at/talking about getting back into watercooling, tonight I won a Phobia UltraBig case in Aquatuning UK's Facebook competition, which has support for an *absolutely* _*insane*_ amount of radiators. Fate?
> 
> I have no idea what to do with it. Might save up and do that SR-2 build I've always dreamed of...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, I'm a very happy chappy indeed.


.............nawwww, that case looks like it was designed for air cooling









congrats man! looks like you could do a whole in that thing


----------



## Crooksy

Congrats man, that's a monster case!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Wow...so after spending time today looking at/talking about getting back into watercooling, tonight I won a Phobia UltraBig case in Aquatuning UK's Facebook competition, which has support for an *absolutely* _*insane*_ amount of radiators. Fate?
> 
> I have no idea what to do with it. Might save up and do that SR-2 build I've always dreamed of...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, I'm a very happy chappy indeed.


SR-2 you say?










That case is a good score,you will need to mod it to look good tho......

Much like the XSPC cube i have lurking under me bench.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Anyone seen the Corsair SP120L's in this color before


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Wow...so after spending time today looking at/talking about getting back into watercooling, tonight I won a Phobia UltraBig case in Aquatuning UK's Facebook competition, which has support for an *absolutely* _*insane*_ amount of radiators. Fate?
> 
> I have no idea what to do with it. Might save up and do that SR-2 build I've always dreamed of...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, I'm a very happy chappy indeed.


I giggled when I read the spec

Right side panel: 1x Nova or SUPERNOVA mounting possibility, Nova Box also possible
Left side panel: 1x Nova or SUPERNOVA mounting possibility, Nova Box required, shroud 180mm or 200mm

man... you will go all out on the amount of rads in this case









btw congratz


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hey everyone i am removing and replacing the heatsink
on my southbridge for my asus z77 sabertooth and was
wondering if i can still use Iso Prop. alcohol to clean it.
i have the "Arctic Clean" set to clean my CPU (which is basically iso P. alcohol)
area but could i still use it for my southbridge as well. i only ask because the
CPU area has a metal shell over it protecting the cores while
the southbridge just seems to be an exposed chip in a way.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey everyone i am removing and replacing the heatsink
> on my southbridge for my asus z77 sabertooth and was
> wondering if i can still use Iso Prop. alcohol to clean it.
> i have the "Arctic Clean" set to clean my CPU (which is basically iso P. alcohol)
> area but could i still use it for my southbridge as well. i only ask because the
> CPU area has a metal shell over it protecting the cores while
> the southbridge just seems to be an exposed chip in a way.


The alcohol is fine. I used the same stuff on my GPU which is exposed too. I didn't use too much though and rubbed it off with a cotton bud. Good luck!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey everyone i am removing and replacing the heatsink
> on my southbridge for my asus z77 sabertooth and was
> wondering if i can still use Iso Prop. alcohol to clean it.
> i have the "Arctic Clean" set to clean my CPU (which is basically iso P. alcohol)
> area but could i still use it for my southbridge as well. i only ask because the
> CPU area has a metal shell over it protecting the cores while
> the southbridge just seems to be an exposed chip in a way.


I use the arcticlean kit on bare die gpus all the time,don't worry you will be fine.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Anyone seen the Corsair SP120L's in this color before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks really good!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Wow...so after spending time today looking at/talking about getting back into watercooling, tonight I won a Phobia UltraBig case in Aquatuning UK's Facebook competition, which has support for an *absolutely* _*insane*_ amount of radiators. Fate?
> 
> I have no idea what to do with it. Might save up and do that SR-2 build I've always dreamed of...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, I'm a very happy chappy indeed.












I believe what Fate intends for you to do with this case is to ship it to my address... I will ensure that it is very well taken care of!


----------



## pc-illiterate

my horrible looking loop. ive cleaned up the wires and mounted the pump in a 'homemade' mount since this morning when i took the pics.
be nice please.




i want to water my 670 dc2 sometime next month. then i can change around the loop to look a good bit cleaner.
and the 500r is not a good case for this. i dont want to hang a 240/360 off the back for the 2 670s.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That looks really good!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks! It took about 10 minutes per fan but they turned out better than I thought they would....


----------



## LuckyNumber13

here's a couple pics of my new build..waiting to finish
painting the rest of it but my pearl white should be here in
the mail anyday now.
only component i'm waiting on is a GPU (or 2) and
the waterblocks but waiting on my bonus..any week now.
last 2 pics = good ol' organized chaos..lol..
can't wait to start putting it all together.
the waiting game is killing me now..lol.


----------



## dmanstasiu

what a beautiful blue


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> The alcohol is fine. I used the same stuff on my GPU which is exposed too. I didn't use too much though and rubbed it off with a cotton bud. Good luck!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use the arcticlean kit on bare die gpus all the time,don't worry you will be fine.


thanks







all the re-assurance i needed..lol
for sure doing it soon now.
have a good one and thanx.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> here's a couple pics of my new build..waiting to finish
> painting the rest of it but my pearl white should be here in
> the mail anyday now.
> only component i'm waiting on is a GPU (or 2) and
> the waterblocks but waiting on my bonus..any week now.
> last 2 pics = good ol' organized chaos..lol..
> can't wait to start putting it all together.
> the waiting game is killing me now..lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks very cool.


----------



## Scribe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I figured I had better get some picks of my new build up before my hardware gets obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to thank B NEGATIVE for all the help when I was planning my system. Your Pipebending threat saved the day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the C70 build that I have been calling Blackout.
> Specs:
> I5-3570K
> MSI MPOWER Motherboard
> EVGA GTX 670 FTW
> Mushkin Ridgeback RAM
> Corsair AX650 PSU
> Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD
> Seagate Barracuda 360GB HDD
> 
> I am using 12mm copper tubing and Bitspower Crystal Link SLI fittings on the water loop. Flow goes RES-PUMP-RX240-GPU-CPU-EX240-RES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Liking the color combo and parts you selected




































My build specs:
EVGA 670 FTW with XSPC rev 1 waterblock
Painted Raystorm cooling an i5 2500k
MSI Z77 MPower motherboard
EX 280 rad in the top and an EX 240 rad in the front of my heavily modded and cut up Bitfenix Shinobi


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I figured I had better get some picks of my new build up before my hardware gets obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to thank B NEGATIVE for all the help when I was planning my system. Your Pipebending threat saved the day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the C70 build that I have been calling Blackout.
> Specs:
> I5-3570K
> MSI MPOWER Motherboard
> EVGA GTX 670 FTW
> Mushkin Ridgeback RAM
> Corsair AX650 PSU
> Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD
> Seagate Barracuda 360GB HDD
> 
> I am using 12mm copper tubing and Bitspower Crystal Link SLI fittings on the water loop. Flow goes RES-PUMP-RX240-GPU-CPU-EX240-RES
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


subtle and clean looking. Nice job!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scribe*
> 
> Liking the color combo and parts you selected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build specs:
> EVGA 670 FTW with XSPC rev 1 waterblock
> Painted Raystorm cooling an i5 2500k
> MSI Z77 MPower motherboard
> EX 280 rad in the top and an EX 240 rad in the front of my heavily modded and cut up Bitfenix Shinobi


Nice work! Nice to see people using different colored coolant.


----------



## CarbonDrift

After lurking this thread for months I finally finished my first watercooling build. I had an H100i before, but it just wasnt enough!

The specs:
i7 3770k with EK Supremacy full copper
16gb Corsair Dominator
Asus 7970 DirectCU II with ek copper waterblock
Modded Fractal Design R2 case
AX850 with corsair white sleeved cables.

Sorry for the bad cellphone pics, I'll get better ones when my AF140 fans arrive.


----------



## Scribe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice work! Nice to see people using different colored coolant.


Thanks!


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Well finally sucked it up and just cleaned the southbridge
with my arctic clean..worked really easy all considering.
was going to use the Koolance GPU 220 at first but wouldn't
fit on the southbridge (too big) so went with another heatsink from another asus board.
now i'm stuck with a gpu 220 waterblock .
was really hoping it would work out but no matter
how i swung it - it wouldn't fit.unless i did major surg.
but i wasn't willing to go there.lol



and the orphan block with nowhere to go..siggghhh..lol..


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scribe*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Liking the color combo and parts you selected http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/38690#
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build specs:
> EVGA 670 FTW with XSPC rev 1 waterblock
> Painted Raystorm cooling an i5 2500k
> MSI Z77 MPower motherboard
> EX 280 rad in the top and an EX 240 rad in the front of my heavily modded and cut up Bitfenix Shinobi


Looks Great.









Oh wait, someone call the cops. He stole my RayStorm block. Just kidding


----------



## laurelgtxyz

Hi guys , i finally got enough funds to do a Custom WC setup. Parts that will be WC-ed is an i5-2500K + Reference GTX 670 in a TJ08-E . These are the parts that i am able to come with and available from my Online Local Seller ( Malaysia ) . :-

Magicool Extreme 180mm x 35mm Slim Radiator (MC-RADI180) Price: $54.95

XSPC EX120 Price: $39.99

XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Clear Reservoir - w/ D5 Variant Pump Installed Price: $159.95

XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 670 Full Coverage VGA Block - Reference Design Price: $104.99

XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 670 Full Coverage VGA Backplate Price: $22.99

XSPC RayStorm High Performance Acetal CPU Liquid Cooling Block Price: $62.99

XSPC Premium tubing, 3/8" Clear

Mayhems Pastel Ice White

Lots of Black Enzotech rotary fittings (Compression)

Feel free to comment and suggest anything that is appropriate or things that i need to change. Thank you.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarbonDrift*
> 
> After lurking this thread for months I finally finished my first watercooling build. I had an H100i before, but it just wasnt enough!
> 
> The specs:
> i7 3770k with EK Supremacy full copper
> 16gb Corsair Dominator
> Asus 7970 DirectCU II with ek copper waterblock
> Modded Fractal Design R2 case
> AX850 with corsair white sleeved cables.
> 
> Sorry for the bad cellphone pics, I'll get better ones when my AF140 fans arrive.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice rig. very clean. pics look good to me but take more
tomorrow or when you get an put in those fans..


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> what a beautiful blue


thanks... it's " Createx - Wicked - Pearl blue" i airbrushed it on in 2 coats.


----------



## 8492

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurelgtxyz*
> 
> Hi guys , i finally got enough funds to do a Custom WC setup. Parts that will be WC-ed is an i5-2500K + Reference GTX 670 in a TJ08-E . These are the parts that i am able to come with and available from my Online Local Seller ( Malaysia ) . :-
> 
> Magicool Extreme 180mm x 35mm Slim Radiator (MC-RADI180) Price: $54.95
> 
> XSPC EX120 Price: $39.99
> 
> XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Clear Reservoir - w/ D5 Variant Pump Installed Price: $159.95
> 
> XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 670 Full Coverage VGA Block - Reference Design Price: $104.99
> 
> XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 670 Full Coverage VGA Backplate Price: $22.99
> 
> XSPC RayStorm High Performance Acetal CPU Liquid Cooling Block Price: $62.99
> 
> XSPC Premium tubing, 3/8" Clear
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Ice White
> 
> Lots of Black Enzotech rotary fittings (Compression)
> 
> Feel free to comment and suggest anything that is appropriate or things that i need to change. Thank you.


I haven't seen any performance comparisons (and i dont know if you could pick one up in Malaysia) but you could look into the alphacool xt45 180 rad. It's all copper so it'd cost more, and its thicker so it might be a tighter fit, but I'd bet itd give better performance


----------



## laurelgtxyz

Hi 8492 , thank you for your suggestion. I did came across the Alphacool 180 Rad when i was looking for 1 , but unfortunately , it is not available here. And even the Magicool rad availability is still unknown.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow that thing is big, ultra big! Congrats. Be careful with those fingerprints though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8492*
> 
> .............nawwww, that case looks like it was designed for air cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> congrats man! looks like you could do a whole in that thing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Congrats man, that's a monster case!


Thanks guys!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> SR-2 you say?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That case is a good score,you will need to mod it to look good tho......
> 
> Much like the XSPC cube i have lurking under me bench.


Yeah, possibly. Depends if I can find one at a good price (or get some sponsors for a build...







)

I've asked if it's a possibility to get credit of the value of the case instead of the case, as that'd be much more useful to me for doing an amazing build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I giggled when I read the spec
> 
> Right side panel: 1x Nova or SUPERNOVA mounting possibility, Nova Box also possible
> Left side panel: 1x Nova or SUPERNOVA mounting possibility, Nova Box required, shroud 180mm or 200mm
> 
> man... you will go all out on the amount of rads in this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw congratz


I know, it's insane!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe what Fate intends for you to do with this case is to ship it to my address... I will ensure that it is very well taken care of!












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> what a beautiful blue


I thought that when I saw it, too. Looks amazing!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scribe*


*Love* the colour scheme!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*


I was thinking of painting a Sabertooth (the Armour cover thing on it) yellow/green last night if I did go ahead with my girlfriends new build in the way I want to, weird that you post it now. Looks great, certainly different!


----------



## MURDoctrine

Ugh so I'm replacing my XSPC Rasa kit Res/Pump combo very soon and want to use a MCP655 pump. Which one do I need to get? I notice there are quite a few out there now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Ugh so I'm replacing my XSPC Rasa kit Res/Pump combo very soon and want to use a MCP655 pump. Which one do I need to get? I notice there are quite a few out there now.


They are all the made by Laing,there are 4 variants,the standard unit which runs at speed 4 and is fixed,the Vario which can run upto setting 5 and has inbuilt speed controller,the D5 strong which is more for us 24v guys and the PWM version by swiftech.

The Vario is the most common one chosen as the jump in performance from setting 4 to setting 5 is quite large.


----------



## Dzuks

Mounted my Aquacomp gpu block yesterday, and if anything it has showed me how it need to switch to a black and red theme for my build. I'm a Chelsea fan, but I might have to kick it with united for this build at least. Smdh. Thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Getting there....

Pump tops and midplate in.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are all the made by Laing,there are 4 variants,the standard unit which runs at speed 4 and is fixed,the Vario which can run upto setting 5 and has inbuilt speed controller,the D5 strong which is more for us 24v guys and the PWM version by swiftech.
> 
> The Vario is the most common one chosen as the jump in performance from setting 4 to setting 5 is quite large.


One more, the Aquacomputer D5 that can be controlled from usb or Aquabus


----------



## PinzaC55

B Negative said
Quote:


> They are all the made by Laing,there are 4 variants,the standard unit which runs at speed 4 and is fixed,the Vario which can run upto setting 5


I'm into heavy metal. Can you get one which goes up to 11 ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are all the made by Laing,there are 4 variants,the standard unit which runs at speed 4 and is fixed,the Vario which can run upto setting 5 and has inbuilt speed controller,the D5 strong which is more for us 24v guys and the PWM version by swiftech.
> 
> The Vario is the most common one chosen as the jump in performance from setting 4 to setting 5 is quite large.
> 
> 
> 
> One more, the Aquacomputer D5 that can be controlled from usb or Aquabus
Click to expand...

Very true,however its the same as a standard unit i think,unless you have a AQ or a controller you cant control the speed.



No red dial on the back....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> B Negative said
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> They are all the made by Laing,there are 4 variants,the standard unit which runs at speed 4 and is fixed,the Vario which can run upto setting 5
> 
> 
> 
> I'm into heavy metal. Can you get one which goes up to 11 ?
Click to expand...

Sure.

Meet the Iwaki RD30


----------



## Westy

My First build







Put it in about a couple days ago, temps dropped a good 20c to the card immediately. Almost no modification in the build, just slight airflow increases, and tweaking of the Mobo to get the Rad to fit.

Tell me what you think










Front View


Window View


Full Loop w/ Light


XSPC Raystorm CPU block up close and lit


Full Loop in the dark Fully Lit

Specs:
Corsair 600T Case
i5 2500K @4.4
AMD 7970 @1200:1600
MSI Z77A-G45 Mobo
Corsair 1050W PSU
128Gb SSD x1
500Gb HDD x2
3Tb HDD x1

Part list (off the top of my head):
Noctua 120mm x3
Bitfenix 200mm x1
XSPC CPU block
XPSC 240mm Rad
EK FC-7970 Block
XSPC Res w/ D5 Pump Built into 5.25' Bays


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very true,however its the same as a standard unit i think,unless you have a AQ or a controller you cant control the speed.


I believe it can be controlled by Aquasuite program like Aquastream XT, even if you don't have an Aquaero


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very true,however its the same as a standard unit i think,unless you have a AQ or a controller you cant control the speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it can be controlled by Aquasuite program like Aquastream XT, even if you don't have an Aquaero
Click to expand...

Interesting,i will give that a go later,see if that works..

Connecting thru the USB to the board may well work,i didnt think of that.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Should have my SLI Titan loop set up by this weekend!


----------



## Canis-X

Beautiful!!! I'm soooo jelly...


----------



## PCModderMike

Wow, very nice


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting,i will give that a go later,see if that works..
> 
> Connecting thru the USB to the board may well work,i didnt think of that.


Works atreat without needing the Aquaero just download the free software connect Via the USB.. Fantastic pump been using one for a two or three weeks now & in the proccess of writting a review e.t.c..


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I figured I had better get some picks of my new build up before my hardware gets obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to thank B NEGATIVE for all the help when I was planning my system. *Your Pipebending threat saved the day*.


Maybe this is where people think you're dangerous B Neg!







All those 'threats' you hand out...

And @Sebar - beautiful execution there! All these copper pipe builds are making me want to redo mine - but I just ordered my sleeving from Nils...


----------



## Milespnz

Hi all. This is my first time posting.

I have recently built my first custom water cooling loop and it performs very well. I have leak tested and bleed the system but the pump is still noise.

I have to admit I am disappointed so far. I had a hyper 212+ that was basically silent and was expecting water cooling to not only perform well but be silent.

The pump isn't very loud but it is audible, more so then I expected. I can hear it when I have head phones on and I cant live with it. I would rather just air cool again.

Pump is the latest xspc x2o 750 v4 acrylic version. I am also running a Magicool 180 RAD and an XSPC Rasa CPU block.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milespnz*
> 
> Hi all. This is my first time posting.
> 
> I have recently built my first custom water cooling loop and it performs very well. I have leak tested and bleed the system but the pump is still noise.
> 
> I have to admit I am disappointed so far. I had a hyper 212+ that was basically silent and was expecting water cooling to not only perform well but be silent.
> 
> The pump isn't very loud but it is audible, more so then I expected. I can hear it when I have head phones on and I cant live with it. I would rather just air cool again.
> 
> Pump is the latest xspc x2o 750 v4 acrylic version. I am also running a Magicool 180 RAD and an XSPC Rasa CPU block.


Hi and welcome to OCN. Sorry to hear your disappointment about your loop, some pumps are louder than others though. You could create a new thread about your issues though, and link it here for everyone to check out and maybe get some advice on it.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milespnz*
> 
> Hi all. This is my first time posting.
> 
> I have recently built my first custom water cooling loop and it performs very well. I have leak tested and bleed the system but the pump is still noise.
> 
> I have to admit I am disappointed so far. I had a hyper 212+ that was basically silent and was expecting water cooling to not only perform well but be silent.
> 
> The pump isn't very loud but it is audible, more so then I expected. I can hear it when I have head phones on and I cant live with it. I would rather just air cool again.
> 
> Pump is the latest xspc x2o 750 v4 acrylic version. I am also running a Magicool 180 RAD and an XSPC Rasa CPU block.


Welcome mate!

I could imagine the noise has to do with vibration. Try to place some rubber or foam between the reservoir and the screws. Hope this helps.


----------



## darkapollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milespnz*
> 
> Hi all. This is my first time posting.
> 
> I have recently built my first custom water cooling loop and it performs very well. I have leak tested and bleed the system but the pump is still noise.
> 
> I have to admit I am disappointed so far. I had a hyper 212+ that was basically silent and was expecting water cooling to not only perform well but be silent.
> 
> The pump isn't very loud but it is audible, more so then I expected. I can hear it when I have head phones on and I cant live with it. I would rather just air cool again.
> 
> Pump is the latest xspc x2o 750 v4 acrylic version. I am also running a Magicool 180 RAD and an XSPC Rasa CPU block.


I have the x2o 750v4 as well and i cant hear it at all. It needs a bit of help bleeding out though.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Should have my SLI Titan loop set up by this weekend!


Serious e-envy.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milespnz*
> 
> Hi all. This is my first time posting.
> 
> I have recently built my first custom water cooling loop and it performs very well. I have leak tested and bleed the system but the pump is still noise.
> 
> I have to admit I am disappointed so far. I had a hyper 212+ that was basically silent and was expecting water cooling to not only perform well but be silent.
> 
> The pump isn't very loud but it is audible, more so then I expected. I can hear it when I have head phones on and I cant live with it. I would rather just air cool again.
> 
> Pump is the latest xspc x2o 750 v4 acrylic version. I am also running a Magicool 180 RAD and an XSPC Rasa CPU block.


Maybe try to run pump at 9V it should decrease noise.


----------



## Milespnz

I just realised that I started the Rees is the acrylic version. It's actually the black version.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Maybe this is where people think you're dangerous B Neg!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All those 'threats' you hand out...
> 
> And @Sebar - beautiful execution there! All these copper pipe builds are making me want to redo mine - but I just ordered my sleeving from Nils...


Thanks for QA'ing my post, I will go back and make the revisions.









I like all hard tubing systems I am seeing. It is a great alternative to traditional tubing.


----------



## CrazyCorky

I would love to do a full build but I would prefer to use hard lines as it looks so much cleaner. Probably not a good idea for a first timer..


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milespnz*
> 
> Hi all. This is my first time posting.
> 
> I have recently built my first custom water cooling loop and it performs very well. I have leak tested and bleed the system but the pump is still noise.
> 
> I have to admit I am disappointed so far. I had a hyper 212+ that was basically silent and was expecting water cooling to not only perform well but be silent.
> 
> The pump isn't very loud but it is audible, more so then I expected. I can hear it when I have head phones on and I cant live with it. I would rather just air cool again.
> 
> Pump is the latest xspc x2o 750 v4 acrylic version. I am also running a Magicool 180 RAD and an XSPC Rasa CPU block.


Hi there,

for some reason there is a rumor out there that watercooling is always silent/inaudible but this obviously not the fact as long as your are not especially building it to be silent.
But don't give up, there's hope








As the others already mentioned are there some things you can do and if that still is not enough you also have the possibility to swap out the pump to something better or more silent.
I also had to learn that beginning on watercooling can be a long way of trial and error. Reading a lot here on this forum and watch some videos on youtube from the right guys helps a lot. So if you should go for new pump do some decent research before purchase


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> I would love to do a full build but I would prefer to use hard lines as it looks so much cleaner. Probably not a good idea for a first timer..


Its not hard to do,there is a bending guide in my sig if you fancy a crack at it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Maybe this is where people think you're dangerous B Neg!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All those 'threats' you hand out...
> 
> And @Sebar - beautiful execution there! All these copper pipe builds are making me want to redo mine - but I just ordered my sleeving from Nils...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for QA'ing my post, I will go back and make the revisions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I like all hard tubing systems I am seeing.* It is a great alternative to traditional tubing.
Click to expand...

Been a bit of an explosion of them,sorry about that....


----------



## Car17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting,i will give that a go later,see if that works..
> 
> Connecting thru the USB to the board may well work,i didnt think of that.


Yep AquaSuite works very well. Connect it to the USB header just make sure your connecting it the correct way or else you could short the motor!!








I love my Ehiem pump.


----------



## Westy

Any Criticism on my first build?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Westy*
> 
> Any Criticism on my first build?


Looks nice from what I can tell but more detailed pictures would be nice


----------



## Westy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Looks nice from what I can tell but more detailed pictures would be nice


Yeah, didnt really get a chance to get some good pics. I'll try for some more


----------



## Westy

Couple more Pics


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Thanks for QA'ing my post, I will go back and make the revisions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I like all hard tubing systems I am seeing.* It is a great alternative to traditional tubing.


DRINK THE KOOL-AID PEOPLE!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Westy*
> 
> Couple more Pics]


Yea looks nice but could use some tidying of the cable management.

Example: This shows the same Cathode DC Transformer you have but mine is hooked to two cathodes, painted, mounted and I did nice Pet sleveing on all the wires.....



NoTe: Ignore the black wires on the side I havent organized them yet...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very true,however its the same as a standard unit i think,unless you have a AQ or a controller you cant control the speed.
> 
> 
> 
> No red dial on the back....


The D5 USB is just a D5 Vario with digital speed control. It is controllable manually with the Aquasuite software when it is plugged in via USB. The Aquaero is only needed if you want to assign the pump to a controller, just like a fan. You can then set it to speed up and slow down based on temperatures or anything else the Aquaero is capable of.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Finally getting started:


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Finally getting started


Well since you're "lazy" we can't be surprized, and being a bear must make even fitting the motherboard or getting the block fitted a real chore.









However, the start looks good already and it doesn't even work yet!


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Westy*
> 
> Couple more Pics


Looks great man.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Westy*
> 
> Any Criticism on my first build?


so are you using the xspc rasa kit? seems to be the same parts listed...only asking as i recently RA'd my kit as it had a faulty pump not even 24 hours into owning it. Im not a fan of these dual pump/res combos. When and if i water cool again itll definitely be a separate pump and res.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Finally getting started:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Green! Nice, is that the old AMD Phenom Dominators? I tried to find some for a long time. Also, your CPU block bothers me with the raystorm upside down.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Green! Nice, is that the old AMD Phenom Dominators? I tried to find some for a long time. Also, your CPU block bothers me with the raystorm upside down.


They look like Mushkin Blackline with painted sinks to me


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Should have my SLI Titan loop set up by this weekend!


That is one whale of a block you got there.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> They look like Mushkin Blackline with painted sinks to me


Derp, they sure do. I had those things on my mind because I just spent 2 hours trying to find the heatsinks that bolt to the top in the original green.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Green! Nice, is that the old AMD Phenom Dominators? I tried to find some for a long time. Also, your CPU block bothers me with the raystorm upside down.


That's too bad; I didn't want to reverse flow and the in port is on an inconvenient side otherwise, and in/out matter for temps.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That is one whale of a block you got there.


Lol, I think it looks kinda like the goldfish crackers...


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Should have my SLI Titan loop set up by this weekend!


Awesome! I ordered my block ( yes, i have _"just"_ one titan) on monday and i'm waiting for them to ship it


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> That's too bad; I didn't want to reverse flow and the in port is on an inconvenient side otherwise, and in/out matter for temps.


Yeah, that happened both times I used a raystorm. Still bothers me that the words are upside down though, its an obsessive thing. Its a great block though, can't really beat it for the price.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Finally getting started:


GREEN DOESN'T MATCH

BLOCK UPSIDE DOWN

YOUR FACE

Welcome to OCN.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Looks good, really excited to see where this goes.


----------



## Fieel

Best fans for a XPSC 360mm radiator? Someone told me Corsair SP120, but there are 2 versions, quiet and high performance (1400 and 2300 rpm respectively). I mean, what's the difference? Using a high performance version fan with a controlled to downvolt it to 1400 would result in a quiet version? Because in this case i'd go with the high performance ones, downvolting them on daily use and maxing them while gaming


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Best fans for a XPSC 360mm radiator? Someone told me Corsair SP120, but there are 2 versions, quiet and high performance (1400 and 2300 rpm respectively). I mean, what's the difference? Using a high performance version fan with a controlled to downvolt it to 1400 would result in a quiet version? Because in this case i'd go with the high performance ones, downvolting them on daily use and maxing them while gaming


I have the SP Performance edition on a EX240. The fans on 12v are pretty loud but man do they cool your rads. Down volted to 7v they are audible but not loud while still moving a fair amount of air through the rads.


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Should have my SLI Titan loop set up by this weekend!


Jes that's a fat looking block. Looking forward to seeing how they OC under water, be sure to post detailed results, don't let me down


----------



## Eastrider

Hello all!

Small question here... I own a Thermochill PA.120-3 radiator since quite a few years ago. Given that I'm building my next PC I wanted to give a look to the manufacturer's site to see if there were replacement shrouds, etc...

Surprisingly enough, I didn't find anything. Thermochill site is offline, their twitter doesn't update since months ago...

Did something happen to it? Have they closed or something?


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> I have the SP Performance edition on a EX240. The fans on 12v are pretty loud but man do they cool your rads. Down volted to 7v they are audible but not loud while still moving a fair amount of air through the rads.


What about having them in a fan controller and setting their speed to 900-1000RPM?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Oh the boxes still have the circles for the Titan blocks. I guess EK couldn't go cold turkey over night!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eastrider*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> Small question here... I own a Thermochill PA.120-3 radiator since quite a few years ago. Given that I'm building my next PC I wanted to give a look to the manufacturer's site to see if there were replacement shrouds, etc...
> 
> Surprisingly enough, I didn't find anything. Thermochill site is offline, their twitter doesn't update since months ago...
> 
> Did something happen to it? Have they closed or something?


As far as im aware XSPC bought the rights to Thermochill.

I have a OG PA too,marvelous rads!

Once you clean the flux out anyway.......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> I have the SP Performance edition on a EX240. The fans on 12v are pretty loud but man do they cool your rads. Down volted to 7v they are audible but not loud while still moving a fair amount of air through the rads.
> 
> 
> 
> *What about having them in a fan controller and setting their speed to 900-1000RPM?*
Click to expand...


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Oh the boxes still have the circles for the Titan blocks. I guess EK couldn't go cold turkey over night!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> I have the SP Performance edition on a EX240. The fans on 12v are pretty loud but man do they cool your rads. Down volted to 7v they are audible but not loud while still moving a fair amount of air through the rads.


Agreed I use SP120Ls and they work great! I am running three XSPC 360 Rads.


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Westy*
> 
> Couple more Pics


Why didn't you used the FC link to avoid the huge U-turn that you have done with your GPU tubing?


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Agreed I use SP120Ls and they work great! I am running three XSPC 360 Rads.
> cut


Awesome! What about the fans? Do you use a controller? If so, slowed to 1000 RPM are the fans loud?

edit: Awesome avatar dude, rofl.
edit2: your fans are painted? D:, If so, how did you paint them perfect like that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Westy*
> 
> Couple more Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why didn't you used the FC link to avoid the huge U-turn that you have done with your GPU tubing?
Click to expand...

More like why did EK ditch the standard design and make it necessary to have another block of plexi on it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Agreed I use SP120Ls and they work great! I am running three XSPC 360 Rads.
> cut
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! What about the fans? Do you use a controller? If so, slowed to 1000 RPM are the fans loud?
> 
> edit: Awesome avatar dude, rofl.
> edit2: your fans are painted? D:, If so, how did you paint them perfect like that?
Click to expand...

Im interested on how you got the blades off too,I was going to paint my SP120's but didnt fancy wrecking fans to find out.
Is it a circlip design like the AP-15's?

Put a step by step guide if you can,a lot of people would be interested in it


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarbonDrift*
> 
> After lurking this thread for months I finally finished my first watercooling build. I had an H100i before, but it just wasnt enough!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The specs:
> i7 3770k with EK Supremacy full copper
> 16gb Corsair Dominator
> Asus 7970 DirectCU II with ek copper waterblock
> Modded Fractal Design R2 case
> AX850 with corsair white sleeved cables.
> 
> Sorry for the bad cellphone pics, I'll get better ones when my AF140 fans arrive.


That Block! Liking the copper look.


----------



## PinzaC55

I recently found this on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZxrqyahqXc&list=FLt2-YCmrLjCvF2g-qke10Gg and thought it might be worth sharing. Imagine a decent sized black case with one of these as a front fan? Really high WOW factor


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I recently found this on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZxrqyahqXc&list=FLt2-YCmrLjCvF2g-qke10Gg and thought it might be worth sharing. Imagine a decent sized black case with one of these as a front fan? Really high WOW factor


That's pretty cool. I wonder how much those things are and if you could ultimately do the same thing on your own just by drilling and adding LEDs.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> That's pretty cool. I wonder how much those things are and if you could ultimately do the same thing on your own just by drilling and adding LEDs.


Reading the description, he modded the fan with that many LEDs himself. Normally I believe they only have 4 LEDs, one in each corner. He has the link to the DIY guide in the description as well


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Reading the description, he modded the fan with that many LEDs himself. Normally I believe they only have 4 LEDs, one in each corner. He has the link to the DIY guide in the description as well


Ah ok. I guess I need to stop being lazy and actually start reading more...

On a different topic what types of materials can be used to do hard lines for WC? I have a C70 Vengeance case thats gunmetal and I would love to have that same look as the case.


----------



## morencyam

BNegative is our resident expert on solid tubes. He has a link in his sig to a thread on the subject


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Reading the description, he modded the fan with that many LEDs himself. Normally I believe they only have 4 LEDs, one in each corner. He has the link to the DIY guide in the description as well
> 
> 
> 
> Ah ok. I guess I need to stop being lazy and actually start reading more...
> 
> On a different topic what types of materials can be used to do hard lines for WC? I have a C70 Vengeance case thats gunmetal and I would love to have that same look as the case.
Click to expand...

I did a c70....



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> BNegative is our resident expert on solid tubes. He has a link in his sig to a thread on the subject


I work for biscuits.

You have biscuits?

You mis-spelled expert too,its spelt A S S H A T


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did a c70....
> 
> 
> I work for biscuits.
> 
> You have biscuits?
> 
> You mis-spelled expert too,its spelt A S S H A T


No biscuits here... But I hear the dark side has pie.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I work for biscuits.
> 
> You have biscuits?
> 
> You mis-spelled expert too,its spelt A S S H A T


I have dog biscuits. Will those work?

Damn, I always get those two spelling mixed up. I'll try to remember from here on out


----------



## PCModderMike

Someone say biscuits!?


sorry off topic


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did a c70....
> 
> I work for biscuits.
> 
> You have biscuits?


biscuits rock









Did you recognize any corrosion problems with that stainless steel pipe? I know its fine with brass but what about copper? I'm pretty unsure eventhough I actually should know it from school...
...but that's long time ago


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I work for biscuits.
> 
> You have biscuits?
> 
> You mis-spelled expert too,its spelt A S S H A T
> 
> 
> 
> I have dog biscuits. Will those work?
> 
> Damn, I always get those two spelling mixed up. I'll try to remember from here on out
Click to expand...

Perfect,the master will be pleased



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did a c70....
> 
> I work for biscuits.
> 
> You have biscuits?
> 
> 
> 
> biscuits rock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you recognize any corrosion problems with that stainless steel pipe? I know its fine with brass but what about copper? I'm pretty unsure eventhough I actually should know it from school...
> ...but that's long time ago
Click to expand...

It chrome plated copper tube and its been perfect even with the ridiculous amounts of biocide i slung in it ( i CBA to drain it every 6 months,2 years is more like it







)


----------



## airplaneman

Lmao, I haven't checked this thread in a couple days, and I come back to a page about a**hats and biscuits. OCN, you never cease to amuse.


----------



## Nomad692000

LOL, caused me to spit coffee on my keyboard. Thanks guys


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> Lmao, I haven't checked this thread in a couple days, and I come back to a page about a**hats and biscuits. OCN, you never cease to amuse.


Got to keep it humourous Airplaneman,keeps people coming back for MOAR!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Finally getting started:


can you work a bit more and put your block in the right way lol. i's up side down or a had too much


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Green! Nice, is that the old AMD Phenom Dominators? I tried to find some for a long time. Also, your CPU block bothers me with the raystorm upside down.
> 
> 
> 
> That's too bad; I didn't want to reverse flow and the in port is on an inconvenient side otherwise, and in/out matter for temps.
Click to expand...

Can't you dissassemble the block and just change the orientation of the top piece?


----------



## Compaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Green! Nice, is that the old AMD Phenom Dominators? I tried to find some for a long time. Also, your CPU block bothers me with the raystorm upside down.
> 
> 
> 
> That's too bad; I didn't want to reverse flow and the in port is on an inconvenient side otherwise, and in/out matter for temps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can't you dissassemble the block and just change the orientation of the top piece?
Click to expand...

Too funny! Nobody will even notice unless they get they face right up to it.









The XSPC is straight.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomad692000*
> 
> LOL, caused me to spit coffee on my keyboard. Thanks guys


Yeah, I almost launched a bite of lunch at mine.









SUCH good timing!

Thanks- T


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Perfect,the master will be pleased


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Cant do that with Mr Magoo....

He has lasers for eyes you know......


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compaddict*
> 
> Too funny! Nobody will even notice unless they get they face right up to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The XSPC is straight.


Compaddict, I'm in your signature!!! First time I'm being in another's signature. I'm honored, I love you


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cant do that with Mr Magoo....
> 
> He has lasers for eyes you know......


I was unaware. He only uses his laser eyes for good I hope
Beta's nose is like a pause button. As soon as something goes on her nose she's frozen


----------



## Marscorpion

Hi everyone.....
This is my watercooled case:


----------



## Compaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Compaddict*
> 
> Too funny! Nobody will even notice unless they get they face right up to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The XSPC is straight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compaddict, I'm in your signature!!! First time I'm being in another's signature. I'm honored, I love you
Click to expand...

You are quick, I only put it in yesterday! Now if you are hot, sweet, under 40 and female, I love you too!







JK, I got a good laugh from it and had to save it.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> Hi everyone.....
> This is my watercooled case:


Looks great! Could you put some bigger pictures in your profile so we could have a closer look? Or a build log?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> Hi everyone.....
> This is my watercooled case:


Wow, that is a nice rig, is it all made of Crystal Tubing? Honestly, really awsome rig dude









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compaddict*
> 
> You are quick, I only put it in yesterday! Now if you are hot, sweet, under 40 and female, I love you too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JK, I got a good laugh from it and had to save it.


I just saw it in your post!









Unfortunately, you'll have to love me only as a fellow member. I'm no female, lol


----------



## Michalius

I think you should change the name of this club. It should be called:

"OCN WC'ing Club of "Submit pics and we will only post what I don't like/what I think you have done wrong"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I think you should change the name of this club. It should be called:
> 
> "OCN WC'ing Club of "Submit pics and we will only post what I don't like/what I think you have done wrong"


Eh?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I think you should change the name of this club. It should be called:
> 
> "OCN WC'ing Club of "Submit pics and we will only post what I don't like/what I think you have done wrong"


What? That is so not true,

*if you can't accept Critics*, then only post your rig pictures in your Mom's bedroom, she will probably say good job son...I love you.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> Hi everyone.....
> This is my watercooled case:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


Very nice looking build. I like the use of the hard acrylic tubes. Cable management is tidy as well. Nice job


----------



## Michalius

Not talking about myself, just a general trend I've seen over the past couple of months.

Maybe it's a result of seeing so many perfectionist builds, but there's a lot of comments in here akin to 'sharp knees' without anything positive. Starts to grate on me.

Karlitos, BNeg, neither of you do anything like this, so I can understand your confusion.


----------



## King Lycan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> Hi everyone.....
> This is my watercooled case:


Oh my God... what size tubing and what kind are those


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Not talking about myself, just a general trend I've seen over the past couple of months.
> 
> Maybe it's a result of seeing so many perfectionist builds, but there's a lot of comments in here akin to 'sharp knees' without anything positive. Starts to grate on me.
> 
> Karlitos, BNeg, neither of you do anything like this, so I can understand your confusion.


I have to admit, some people live their lives in negativity, so don't expect a positive comment from them. But sometime, negativity can be constructive, as long as it's not constant negativity...This will end you up at the psychologist with a self-esteem problem.


----------



## Compaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I think you should change the name of this club. It should be called:
> 
> "OCN WC'ing Club of "Submit pics and we will only post what I don't like/what I think you have done wrong"


Don't worry, I think mine is the same way.







I call things like that character because if everything was identical in life, it would be really boring.







Personally I can't wait to see it finished, it's looking good.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Lycan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> Hi everyone.....
> This is my watercooled case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my God... what size tubing and what kind are those
Click to expand...

Seeing as they are small pics i wont spoiler them,Thats such a nice clean build.....i hate you.
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Not talking about myself, just a general trend I've seen over the past couple of months.
> 
> Maybe it's a result of seeing so many perfectionist builds, but there's a lot of comments in here akin to 'sharp knees' without anything positive. Starts to grate on me.
> 
> Karlitos, BNeg, neither of you do anything like this, so I can understand your confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to admit, some people live their lives in negativity, so don't expect a positive comment from them. But sometime, negativity can be constructive, as long as it's not constant negativity...This will end you up at the psychologist with a self-esteem problem.
Click to expand...

I need to change my handle......


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I need to change my handle......


Ironically enough, you are one of the more positive members in this thread. Even when you are negative, it's always constructive. I don't think I've ever seen you say you didn't like someone's build without some sort of follow up as to why or how to make it better. Plus not having a huge ego helps too. Everyone knows how amazing your builds always are but you don't flaunt it. Signs of a true leader


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I need to change my handle......


I've always thought that was hilarious. BNegative, the most supportive and helpful person!









But really, it's not about me. There are tons of people that are clearly beginners and trying their best. There's no "It looks good but" or someone posts WIP pics and they just comment on things that aren't done yet rather than what is brought to attention. It's as if people assume their job is to look for the tiniest defect, some of which can be completely subjective (EK circles for example), and only comment on that.

Compare comments here to a place like the ModZoo. You get constructive criticism without the derision.

It's all over OCN as of late. Personal attacks and ridiculous comments abound.

/therapy session


----------



## Compaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> On a different topic what types of materials can be used to do hard lines for WC? I have a C70 Vengeance case thats gunmetal and I would love to have that same look as the case.


I did a c70....



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> BNegative is our resident expert on solid tubes. He has a link in his sig to a thread on the subject


Wow I just seen this hard tubing job, VERY nice!!! The angles keep resistance to almost nothing! Is that stainless tubing or chrome plated ? You could paint brass gunmetal grey couldn't you?


----------



## SeekerZA

Here are my pictures:












Thank You All for Opening up my mind to Watercooling. I am glad i went with it and Yes i see now why you all say when you go water, it is never a finished job and there is always that something extra you'd picture your loop having. I am already getting in Lightning . . Sigh

Build Log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1361280/build-log-haf-x-watercooled


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You guys.......


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I've always thought that was hilarious. BNegative, the most supportive and helpful person!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really, it's not about me. There are tons of people that are clearly beginners and trying their best. There's no "It looks good but" or someone posts WIP pics and they just comment on things that aren't done yet rather than what is brought to attention. It's as if people assume their job is to look for the tiniest defect, some of which can be completely subjective (EK circles for example), and only comment on that.
> 
> Compare comments here to a place like the ModZoo. You get constructive criticism without the derision.
> 
> It's all over OCN as of late. Personal attacks and ridiculous comments abound.
> 
> /therapy session


You are kinda right, but you have to make a difference between each members. After all this time on OCN, I'm starting to know everyones personnality. Check at B-Neg comments, Wermad comments and any other long timers... very nice and gentle persons . YES, they can still dispute about which pump is being the best, but they will end up shaking hands like pure friends. *We are a freakin nice community*


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> You are kinda right, but you have to make a difference between each members. After all this time on OCN, I'm starting to know everyones personnality. Check at B-Neg comments, Wermad and any other long timers... very nice and gentle persons . *We are a freakin nice community*


Im not Nice









But 99% of the time if i have nothing nice to say i say nothing at all.


----------



## sebar

I painted mine with satin black Krylon, worked out good but the finish is not super durable so do not go banging into it. A clear coat would be a good idea.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Here are my pictures:
> 
> Thank You All for Opening up my mind to Watercooling. I am glad i went with it and Yes i see now why you all say when you go water, it is never a finished job and there is always that something extra you'd picture your loop having. I am already getting in Lightning . . Sigh
> 
> Build Log:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1361280/build-log-haf-x-watercooled


I have that same tubing 15 feet of it used in my Build and i know that stuff is a real pita...

Really when in a tight space trying to get a Comp fitting screwed down onto it...

I like that big Monsta sticking out the back i almost did it with my Cosmos2 Build but wanted everything in the case for some odd reason.


----------



## Compaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I painted mine with satin black Krylon, worked out good but the finish is not super durable so do go baging into it. A clear coat would be a good idea.


SWEET!!!









It can't be easy bending pipe and getting the measure to come out right. Great job!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I've always thought that was hilarious. BNegative, the most supportive and helpful person!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really, it's not about me. There are tons of people that are clearly beginners and trying their best. There's no "It looks good but" or someone posts WIP pics and they just comment on things that aren't done yet rather than what is brought to attention. It's as if people assume their job is to look for the tiniest defect, some of which can be completely subjective (EK circles for example), and only comment on that.
> 
> Compare comments here to a place like the ModZoo. You get constructive criticism without the derision.
> 
> It's all over OCN as of late. Personal attacks and ridiculous comments abound.
> 
> /therapy session
> 
> 
> 
> You are kinda right, but you have to make a difference between each members. After all this time on OCN, I'm starting to know everyones personnality. Check at B-Neg comments, Wermad comments and any other long timers... very nice and gentle persons . *YES, they can still dispute about which pump is being the best*, but they will end up shaking hands like pure friends. *We are a freakin nice community*
Click to expand...

D5 of course,dont listen to Wermad and his DEEDEECEE nonsense....


















Wermad has oodles of experience along with many other members,I have much respect for him,IT Diva is another,i dont dig her stretched build but i have a lot of time for her clever engineering and all round professional attitude.

It is okay to disagree as long you dont take it to heart and can say WHY you dont like something,just 'its crap' doesnt really say much.


----------



## Michalius

So clean.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compaddict*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I painted mine with satin black Krylon, worked out good but the finish is not super durable so do go baging into it. A clear coat would be a good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> SWEET!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can't be easy bending pipe and getting the measure to come out right. Great job!
Click to expand...

Where do you see pipe


----------



## CrazyCorky

WIth 2 EVGA 670 4gigs and 3770k going to water cooling what size PSU would you guys recommend?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Where do you see pipe


Does this help?


----------



## dmanstasiu

oh wow the matte black makes it look so much like tubing ... and the bends were so fluid


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> WIth 2 EVGA 670 4gigs and 3770k going to water cooling what size PSU would you guys recommend?


Around 800w, is more than enough, i ran two 680's for a while on my 750w fine.


----------



## CrazyCorky

So I'm guessing that a pump would not put much more stress on a platinum 850w?


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> So I'm guessing that a pump would not put much more stress on a platinum 850w?


Absolutely not


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Absolutely not


Thanks!! I'm in the process of upgrading what I have now and getting the rest of what I want in this tower before I go water cooled.


----------



## King Lycan

I'm one more sexy pipe build away from going pipe on my build my wallet can't take anymore abuse


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Does this help?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm starting to like these cooper builds. Not something you see too much these days. Nice build!


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Does this help?


The before and after made me realize what you had going on.

This is simply phenomenal. Amazing attention to detail in getting everything to match aesthetically. Definitely one of my most favorite builds. Moar pics?


----------



## Westy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Why didn't you used the FC link to avoid the huge U-turn that you have done with your GPU tubing?


Didn't like the fact that I had to bolt an ugly a** block of plexy to


----------



## Solonowarion

First build I have done. Had soo much fun with the 600t but a small case for what I was doing. Cant wait to go bigger.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I'm starting to like these cooper builds. Not something you see too much these days. Nice build!


UNTIL we all break down and build one, getting evicted from our places for unpaid rent in the process!









Thanks - T


----------



## nleksan

Would using Clear Coat over bare copper prevent oxidation?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Would using Clear Coat over bare copper prevent oxidation?


2-3 layers would mean it should be fine.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Would using Clear Coat over bare copper prevent oxidation?


Yeah ? ...


----------



## Michalius

Good use of space, you really got a lot in there!

You can free up a decent amount of room by cutting out the top to fit in a 360mm rad, just offset it a bit so the rad+fans has room to clear the mobo tray. That's only if you want to put your rad on the inside of it though, which is certainly a matter of preference.


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Here are my pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank You All for Opening up my mind to Watercooling. I am glad i went with it and Yes i see now why you all say when you go water, it is never a finished job and there is always that something extra you'd picture your loop having. I am already getting in Lightning . . Sigh
> 
> Build Log:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1361280/build-log-haf-x-watercooled


Hahaha that is so awesome that the rad holder bit can hold a 480 monsta rad!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> First build I have done. Had soo much fun with the 600t but a small case for what I was doing. Cant wait to go bigger.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really digging your setup, looks well thought out. The rad sticking out at the top kinda turns me off, yet because it's painted, the custom holes for the fan cables, and then the grill piece up top, it all works very well.








More pics of the whole rig would be nice.


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Does this help?


What size BP fittings did you use for the build?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> What size BP fittings did you use for the build?


The copper tubing is connected using the BP crystal link fittings, they are for 12mm OD tubing. The other fittings are BP 90 and 45 degree rotary fittings.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> First build I have done. Had soo much fun with the 600t but a small case for what I was doing. Cant wait to go bigger.










Awesome...


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Does this help?


Wow that's beautiful!
What case?


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> The copper tubing is connected using the BP crystal link fittings, they are for 12mm OD tubing. The other fittings are BP 90 and 45 degree rotary fittings.


Thanks for the info, love the build


----------



## sebar

Black Corsair C70.


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Black Corsair C70.


Sebar I'm going to send you my C70 and internals.. Make it look like yours!!


----------



## sebar

Fine by me.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I've always thought that was hilarious. BNegative, the most supportive and helpful person!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really, it's not about me. There are tons of people that are clearly beginners and trying their best. There's no "It looks good but" or someone posts WIP pics and they just comment on things that aren't done yet rather than what is brought to attention. It's as if people assume their job is to look for the tiniest defect, some of which can be completely subjective (EK circles for example), and only comment on that.
> 
> Compare comments here to a place like the ModZoo. You get constructive criticism without the derision.
> 
> It's all over OCN as of late. Personal attacks and ridiculous comments abound.
> 
> /therapy session





Spoiler: Warning: Off Topic Response!



I want to clarify, I think that he is talking about the fact that I posted a picture and that everyone who felt the need to comment (which, of course, is great, I love feedback!) were of the opinion that being told once that the Raystorm block was upside down was not enough, and that, if they said it again, I might somehow fix it and not be lazy about it. I don't care that they told me it was upside down, but that they told me it was upside down five times. I love OCN, but there are people that do a sort of "hate," kind of like on the subreddit "gamingpc" they ask you to justify why you bought the parts that you did, as if your buying them was not justification enough. With this rig I know that buying dual cards is not as good as single because FPS isn't what matters, frame latency is what matters, and a 4GB 680 is going to be plenty for 2560x1400 gaming. I kind of wish I had waited for Titans to be out, but oh well, doesn't matter. I was also asked why I only bought SSDs, and why I bought three sizes of SSDs. I don't like hard drives, they make noise, and I don't like noise. I know that I can't hear the noise very well when I have my headphones on, but they still make noise, and they still take up huge amounts of room. I got SSDs because they are a) faster, b) smaller, and c) silent. It's stuff like that that makes some people on OCN look like annoying buttheads. I know that he was trying to help, but it just turned out as him being rude, in my opinion.



tl;dr:

Guys.

I think it's upside down. Not sure though, maybe if you tell him ONE MORE TIME he'll get it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Also, hot damn! Finally! Someone else doing white and red things! I love those white BP fittings, and I love that you used white acetal tops! Are you going to be able to use them on your graphics card(s)? Looks beautiful so far, can't wait to see what else you have in store.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Always entertaining to read this thread!

I cannot wait until I dive under water


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Always entertaining to read this thread!
> 
> I cannot wait until I dive under water


*I* cannot wait until you dive under water


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Always entertaining to read this thread!
> 
> I cannot wait until I dive under water


Hi there,

just saw you're from Sweden. Do you have good hardware especially watercooling shops over there? I ordered loads of parts from Germany but that's very expensive and takes a lot of time. Just thought maybe it's better to order from Sweden. I live in Norway btw


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Just a side comment on the 'upside down thing' - why is it that cutting the entire case apart to make a small change like moving the drive cage or reversing the motherboard tray is considered 'cool' if it does absolutely nothing to help with performance... yet simply putting the block on with the printing upside down (or for that matter, rotated 90 degrees) is necessarily a huge oversight?

I'm not looking to add more fuel to the fire, but simply posing a rhetorical question for some 'reflection' on everyone's part. Arguing aesthetics is one thing - there really isn't a 'right' or 'wrong' answer - one person likes one thing, others like another. As far as _performance_ however - there usually IS a 'right' answer and a 'wrong' answer - or at least a 'better' and a 'worse' one. I think a lot of the confusion regarding whether peoples comments are constructive criticism or are just random hating comes from this misapplication on many of our parts.

In the case of the block - would you make just as much noise if it were mounted so the text could be read correctly - but that would also mean there were a bunch of crossed tubing runs because the layout wasn't as effective? I'm guessing a _different_ set of people would respond with criticism for that move. For those that still don't know the block is the way it is because of his planned tubing run - which he stated in the first response. A while back someone interpreted some criticism over the unnecessary use of additional reservoirs as being directed toward the rig as a whole - and I can't speak for everyone, but for myself that was the only problem I had with it - from an aesthetic standpoint it was perfectly fine.

Heck - if you like it, but a bird cage with a dancing hula girl in the middle of it - all lit with pink and green neon. However, if I see something that looks confusing or contrary to actual performance... I still think it's in everyone's interest to call it out. At worst, one or two people's feelings are hurt for a day or two - at best someone who would otherwise wonder how they spent hundreds on gear and still get mediocre performance from their rig, learns how to get much better performance without having to spend another penny!

I think everyone needs to just take a breath and realize that it's just an inanimate object we're talking about, and that we all have differing levels of experience in a variety of areas. We can all learn from each other and be collectively better - or we can desire a vacuum in which to exist where we learn nothing and only receive hollow praise for everything. That's what they do in schools here now... giving all the 'participation trophies' and the like... unfortunately, in real life there is no such thing - and it's a hard lesson to learn apparently (based on the responses I've gotten from employees over the years).

OK I'll shut up now and go back in my hole.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Actually you misinterpreted what I said;

The in port is on an inconvenient side, if we're talking about CPU only loops (which I am), when right side up, so I had to change it in order to have proper waterflow and therefore good performance. I will change it "right side up" when I add the GPU! Thank you for taking the time to explain the stuff, I'm glad that you take initiative to make sure people are getting the most out of their rig!


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> *I* cannot wait until you dive under water


*I* cannot wait until I dive under water














Note the "Godzilla" size 7 text.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> just saw you're from Sweden. Do you have good hardware especially watercooling shops over there? I ordered loads of parts from Germany but that's very expensive and takes a lot of time. Just thought maybe it's better to order from Sweden. I live in Norway btw


Hi Tonky! Well, I am familiar with Inet.se, webhallen.se, Liontech.se, coolingstuff.se, highflow.nl (Norwegian). I hope this helps


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just a side comment on the 'upside down thing' - why is it that cutting the entire case apart to make a small change like moving the drive cage or reversing the motherboard tray is considered 'cool' if it does absolutely nothing to help with performance... yet simply putting the block on with the printing upside down (or for that matter, rotated 90 degrees) is necessarily a huge oversight?
> 
> I'm not looking to add more fuel to the fire, but simply posing a rhetorical question for some 'reflection' on everyone's part. Arguing aesthetics is one thing - there really isn't a 'right' or 'wrong' answer - one person likes one thing, others like another. As far as _performance_ however - there usually IS a 'right' answer and a 'wrong' answer - or at least a 'better' and a 'worse' one. I think a lot of the confusion regarding whether peoples comments are constructive criticism or are just random hating comes from this misapplication on many of our parts.
> 
> In the case of the block - would you make just as much noise if it were mounted so the text could be read correctly - but that would also mean there were a bunch of crossed tubing runs because the layout wasn't as effective? I'm guessing a _different_ set of people would respond with criticism for that move. For those that still don't know the block is the way it is because of his planned tubing run - which he stated in the first response. A while back someone interpreted some criticism over the unnecessary use of additional reservoirs as being directed toward the rig as a whole - and I can't speak for everyone, but for myself that was the only problem I had with it - from an aesthetic standpoint it was perfectly fine.
> 
> Heck - if you like it, but a bird cage with a dancing hula girl in the middle of it - all lit with pink and green neon. However, if I see something that looks confusing or contrary to actual performance... I still think it's in everyone's interest to call it out. At worst, one or two people's feelings are hurt for a day or two - at best someone who would otherwise wonder how they spent hundreds on gear and still get mediocre performance from their rig, learns how to get much better performance without having to spend another penny!
> 
> I think everyone needs to just take a breath and realize that it's just an inanimate object we're talking about, and that we all have differing levels of experience in a variety of areas. We can all learn from each other and be collectively better - or we can desire a vacuum in which to exist where we learn nothing and only receive hollow praise for everything. That's what they do in schools here now... giving all the 'participation trophies' and the like... unfortunately, in real life there is no such thing - and it's a hard lesson to learn apparently (based on the responses I've gotten from employees over the years).
> 
> OK I'll shut up now and go back in my hole.


Sorry but my OCD simply wouldn't allow the block to be upside down. That's pretty much all there is to it...


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Does this help?


Beautiful Rig!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Always entertaining to read this thread!
> 
> I cannot wait until I dive under water


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Actually you misinterpreted what I said;
> 
> The in port is on an inconvenient side, if we're talking about CPU only loops (which I am), when right side up, so I had to change it in order to have proper waterflow and therefore good performance. I will change it "right side up" when I add the GPU! Thank you for taking the time to explain the stuff, I'm glad that you take initiative to make sure people are getting the most out of their rig!


No I didn't misinterpret - I obviously just didn't communicate it properly.







All I was saying was that you made a performance-related decision to mount it the way that you did (for proper flow - otherwise you'd have had to cross tube-runs to still have the 'in' side actually receiving the 'in' flow), as opposed to an aesthetic one at the cost of performance (so people could read the 'in' text even though it cooled less).









As usual my words failed to communicate properly what my brain was thinking... happens all the time.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seeing as they are small pics i wont spoiler them,Thats such a nice clean build.....i hate you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I need to change my handle......*


We can do that?????

I'm kinda leaning towards "Asshats & Biscuits" for some unfathomable reason.

Asshats & Biscuits


----------



## Michalius

Okay, I'm down to the final purchasing and I need some help deciding on a few things. So far the rig consists of:

Caselabs SM5 White (yeah yeah BNeg, I wanted the LD PC-V7 but it actually didn't work out the way I wanted due to limited space behind the motherboard tray)
Rampage IV Gene
3820
4x4GB Corsair Dom Plats
Some SSDs
GTX690
Corsair AX760i

for the WC bits:

D5 Vario
XSPC AX240
XSPC AX360
Koolance 690 block (got the card and block from a friend for $700 - would prefer heatkiller but another $200 is a bit hard to swallow as I add up the price of everything else)
Noiseblocker eLoops all around
Duralene tubing
Mayhem's Pastel mixed to be dark grey, might use aurora for contests/shows

The tube routing is going to be fairly complex from a 'bit' standpoint. I'm planning on putting my CPU and GPU in a parallel configuration, and routing nearly all of the tubing through a midplate I'll be installing and on the back side of the motherboard tray. Pretty much, the goal is to have the only tubing visible be the midplate -> GPU -> CPU, and then rad->rad->res. Probably less than a foot all together (that is visible).

Ultimately I'd like to go with 7/16x5/8" compression all around, the reason being is that if spacing is just too tight in a certain area, I can swap in a 1/2" barb in a spot or two to get that extra few mm of clearance.

What I'm undecided on is CPU block, bits, and D5 top. This entire build will be monochrome but leaning towards bright rather than muted. With this in mind, what I'm leaning towards is either black sparkle or shiny silver Bitspower comp fittings, the Koolance CPU block and D5 top.

So couple of questions.

1) Anyone have experience using the Koolance D5 top?

2) If the answer to the above is 'avoid it', which D5 top should I be looking at? I'm not fond of the Bitspower or stock tops, I prefer the ones where the mounting plate holds the pump in place rather than a big ring. I've used a few XSPC bay res's and the EK D5 X-Res, so this will be my first time looking at getting a stand alone top.

3) Are the Alphacool comp fittings cheap looking in the flesh? I'm enticed by the price, I'd be saving well over $150 with these guys. Plus they are low profile, which I'm keen on with the fairly complex routing system I have going on.

4) Where can I find Bitspower angled comp fittings in the US (7/16x5/8) at a good price? Both PPC's and FrozenCPU seem extremely limited at the moment. I'm going to need a total of 18-22 fittings, about 6 of which will be 90, 6 will be 45. I'll probably buy 8 of each just to be safe.

I'm probably forgetting to ask a few things as I have been distilling thousands of ideas over the past few months to get me where I'm at now. I'll be posting up my build log and early photos soon.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Awesome! What about the fans? Do you use a controller? If so, slowed to 1000 RPM are the fans loud?
> 
> edit: Awesome avatar dude, rofl.
> edit2: your fans are painted? D:, If so, how did you paint them perfect like that?


Yes Yes and Yes!

I use a Corsair Link Module to contol all the fans via the Corsair link software....

And they are conciderably quiet if slowed, but I really dont care if it sounds like a Jet lol, as long as its Cool!









Yea I painted them my self, I used Krylon Plastic paint, this is how to do it:

1. Remove back sticker
2. Remover rubber stopper
3. Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the retainer ring that locks the fans blade shaft in place
4. Carefully and evenly remove the blade from the motor and backing
5. Use a Heatgun to slightly heat the top sticker then remove the sticker carefully with a blade.
6. Paint in a zig zag pattern leaving a very light coat
7. Dry on high with heat gun then apply the final coat
8. Dry again
9. Apply the same coat on the back if needed but use a baby food jar or something similar to protect the shaft, magnetic runner, and grease from paint contamination.

PICS:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seeing as they are small pics i wont spoiler them,Thats such a nice clean build.....i hate you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I need to change my handle......*
> 
> 
> 
> We can do that?????
> 
> I'm kinda leaning towards "Asshats & Biscuits" for some unfathomable reason.
> 
> Asshats & Biscuits
Click to expand...

Its mine,I saw it first!!










Obviously I would have to consult with my canine overlord first.....

I think you can get your name changed by Admin if you ask and send chocolate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Okay, I'm down to the final purchasing and I need some help deciding on a few things. So far the rig consists of:
> 
> Caselabs SM5 White (yeah yeah BNeg, *I wanted the LD PC-V7* but it actually didn't work out the way I wanted due to limited space behind the motherboard tray)
> Rampage IV Gene
> 3820
> 4x4GB Corsair Dom Plats
> Some SSDs
> GTX690
> Corsair AX760i
> 
> for the WC bits:
> 
> D5 Vario
> XSPC AX240
> XSPC AX360
> Koolance 690 block (got the card and block from a friend for $700 - would prefer heatkiller but another $200 is a bit hard to swallow as I add up the price of everything else)
> Noiseblocker eLoops all around
> Duralene tubing
> Mayhem's Pastel mixed to be dark grey, might use aurora for contests/shows
> 
> The tube routing is going to be fairly complex from a 'bit' standpoint. I'm planning on putting my CPU and GPU in a parallel configuration, and routing nearly all of the tubing through a midplate I'll be installing and on the back side of the motherboard tray. Pretty much, the goal is to have the only tubing visible be the midplate -> GPU -> CPU, and then rad->rad->res. Probably less than a foot all together (that is visible).
> 
> Ultimately I'd like to go with 7/16x5/8" compression all around, the reason being is that if spacing is just too tight in a certain area, I can swap in a 1/2" barb in a spot or two to get that extra few mm of clearance.
> 
> What I'm undecided on is CPU block, bits, and D5 top. This entire build will be monochrome but leaning towards bright rather than muted. With this in mind, what I'm leaning towards is either black sparkle or shiny silver Bitspower comp fittings, the Koolance CPU block and D5 top.
> 
> So couple of questions.
> 
> 1) *Anyone have experience using the Koolance D5 top?*
> 
> 2) If the answer to the above is 'avoid it', which D5 top should I be looking at? I'm not fond of the Bitspower or stock tops, I prefer the ones where the mounting plate holds the pump in place rather than a big ring. I've used a few XSPC bay res's and the EK D5 X-Res, so this will be my first time looking at getting a stand alone top.
> 
> 3) Are the Alphacool comp fittings cheap looking in the flesh? I'm enticed by the price, I'd be saving well over $150 with these guys. Plus they are low profile, which I'm keen on with the fairly complex routing system I have going on.
> 
> 4) Where can I find Bitspower angled comp fittings in the US (7/16x5/8) at a good price? Both PPC's and FrozenCPU seem extremely limited at the moment. I'm going to need a total of 18-22 fittings, about 6 of which will be 90, 6 will be 45. I'll probably buy 8 of each just to be safe.
> 
> I'm probably forgetting to ask a few things as I have been distilling thousands of ideas over the past few months to get me where I'm at now. I'll be posting up my build log and early photos soon.


Avoid the rev 1 Koolance top,the thread on the shroud and top are bad and the pump can (and in my case,has....twice with 2 different tops) literally pop out and empty your loop.
The rev 2 i have in my SR-2 has been great,one of them did sound like a gravel truck when it first started but a few tweaks of the mount plate witha driver sorted it,seems the tolerances are muy tight when the pump is in.

Mine are coming out for a dual loop setup and 2 Aquacomputer D5 tops with the 800ml res's soon.

I dont blame you about the v7,a bit expensive and not the most feature packed case...


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Obviously I would have to consult with my canine overlord first.....


I can relate. On long modding days, if I'm even 10 minutes late for our run (out in the country, so she gets to chase cows and sheep too), then I get my Border Collie first pacing, then huffing, and finally she will go grab my shoes and put them next to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Obviously I would have to consult with my canine overlord first.....
> 
> 
> 
> I can relate. On long modding days, if I'm even 10 minutes late for our run (out in the country, so she gets to chase cows and sheep too), then I get my Border Collie first pacing, then huffing, and finally she will go grab my shoes and put them next to me.
Click to expand...

Working dogs are like that,you will flop before they will.

Instead i have a megalomaniac Shih Tzu with plans of world domination and a fetish for cheese and biscuits.

And lasers for eyes.


----------



## Michalius

The SM5 turned out to be slightly MORE expensive than the V7 with the few accessories I needed. If only there were an extra 15-20mm of room behind the motherboard tray....

V2 it is. The AC top you are referring to is the Aqualis?

*edit*

I didn't realize you could use it without the res attached! AC it is.

Planning on adding the rest of the AC suite of goodies anyway.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> The SM5 turned out to be slightly MORE expensive than the V7 with the few accessories I needed. If only there were an extra 15-20mm of room behind the motherboard tray....
> 
> V2 it is. The AC top you are referring to is the Aqualis?


Yup,I have a friend at a lab glass blowers so they may not be stock units after he is done...


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 2-3 layers would mean it should be fine.


also wetsand with 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper
in between coats to get a really nice smooth looking end result


----------



## Attacktrak

Hi Guys, These is an update of my loop, the paint of back plate is more than i expected...


----------



## Nightshift

First time watercooling build.

Got my AMD 1090T BE up to 4306Mhz, 1.525V (after disabling an unstable core) idling at ~33*C, load in the mid-high 40s.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Case: CM 690 II (added the new USB3.0 advanced top panel)
CPU Block: EK Supremacy
Tubing: Norprene
Pump: MCP655-B
Rad: Phobya G-changer 2x140mm
Res: Bitspower 150mm
Fans: 2x NF-P14 (push), 2x AeroCool silver (pull)


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> Hi Guys, These is an update of my loop, the paint of back plate is more than i expected...


Is that a sparkle paint job in there? if so i like it!

if it is dust get a Data vac lol.


----------



## wermad

Tube









Wiring:









edit: btw, push/pull Monsta(s)









double edit: lost my subscription.


----------



## Michalius

You should embrace the inner monsta and just go ahead and put shrouds on both push and pull sides of the monstas.









Looks epic though, that is a serious amount of heat dissipation you've got there.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wiring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: btw, push/pull Monsta(s)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> double edit: lost my subscription.


I would have gone with clear tubes to show off that coolant. But still looks good. When you are you going to sell the 690's and get Titans?


----------



## setza

Guys, I have a problem. I built this watercooled pc 2 weeks ago, and it's working fine and all, but it seems there is some electricity in the water. I can feel it whenever i touch any fitting or rad. There are only 3 things that could be the causes of this, the cpu block, the gpu block or the psu somehow. Is there any danger in running the pc like this? Any ideas as to how to fix it?. Also, it only goes away after I turn the PSU off, not the pc. Thanks for the input guys!


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setza*
> 
> Guys, I have a problem. I built this watercooled pc 2 weeks ago, and it's working fine and all, but it seems there is some electricity in the water. I can feel it whenever i touch any fitting or rad. There are only 3 things that could be the causes of this, the cpu block, the gpu block or the psu somehow. Is there any danger in running the pc like this? Any ideas as to how to fix it?. Also, it only goes away after I turn the PSU off, not the pc. Thanks for the input guys!


DAFUQ?

If something was putting electricity to the loop wouldn't it short the whole rig out somewhere? Are you sure its not just vibrations from the water leaving your pump and hitting restrictive blocks?


----------



## setza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> DAFUQ?
> 
> If something was putting electricity to the loop wouldn't it short the whole rig out somewhere? Are you sure its not just vibrations from the water leaving your pump and hitting restrictive blocks?


Im pretty sure, as it still lingers after the pc is turned off, and just dissapears when the PSU itself is turned off.


----------



## Neo Zuko

The Avatar State SM8 Build Log is up!!

Link:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1368349/the-avatar-state-sm8/0_20


----------



## setza

Ok so a new discovery, once I put the case panel, it disappeared... It's starting to scare me.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setza*
> 
> Ok so a new discovery, once I put the case panel, it disappeared... It's starting to scare me.


Sounds like a typical case of bad grounding, usually between the PSU and the Chassis, but could be a bad PSU.....


----------



## setza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Sounds like a typical case of bad grounding, usually between the PSU and the Chassis, but could be a bad PSU.....


Could be, but my psu is brand new.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> The Avatar State SM8 Build Log is up!!
> 
> Link:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1368349/the-avatar-state-sm8/0_20


The setup seems alittle aquward.... with all those RADs why not do seperate loops(parrallel). With the current setup the CPU is going to heat up the southbridge/northbridge, or if flowing in the other direction it would effectively heat the VRM's not cool.......


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setza*
> 
> Could be, but my psu is brand new.


Being it went away after you placed the side, it should defenately be a grounding issue, I would power down and go threw it and tighten all the screws that connect anything to the chassis, like the mobo, psu etc......


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> The setup seems alittle aquward.... with all those RADs why not do seperate loops(parrallel). With the current setup the CPU is going to heat up the southbridge/northbridge, or if flowing in the other direction it would effectively heat the VRM's not cool.......


Are you thinking that water that once passes over the CPU will then become heated, transferring some of that to the chipset? If so, that is not the case. The water temp stays fairly uniform throughout the loop.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Are you thinking that water that once passes over the CPU will then become heated, transferring some of that to the chipset? If so, that is not the case. The water temp stays fairly uniform throughout the loop.


Maybe in some cases, but in the few that I tried it especially with the copper high serface area blcokes whichever one was connected to the outlet of the CPU block actually heated...... Makes sence to me.... Especially when overclocking the cpu....


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Maybe in some cases, but in the few that I tried it especially with the copper high serface area blcokes whichever one was connected to the outlet of the CPU block actually heated...... Makes sence to me.... Especially when overclocking the cpu....


Not really sure what you mean here, but Michalius is absolutely correct. The only place in your loop you will see significant variation in water temperature is between the inlet and outlet of a radiator. This is where you get the Delta T measurement from.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Not really sure what you mean here, but Michalius is absolutely correct. The only place in your loop you will see significant variation in water temperature is between the inlet and outlet of a radiator. This is where you get the Delta T measurement from.


Idk...... Maybe I shouldent push the CPU's to melt an egg lol


----------



## Michalius

That still doesn't make much of a difference.

If you had three 580s in serial right before a CPU, you're still looking at a marginal difference in temperature on that CPU than if it were before the 580s in the loop.

It's natural to assume otherwise, I think just about everyone does before seeing the data. But, it just doesn't work out that way.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Idk...... Maybe I shouldent push the CPU's to melt an egg lol


Leave that to the GTX 480's, didn't they try that once and showed you couldn't actually cook and egg on that thing? Coulda fooled me, they were super hot.


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I think everyone needs to just take a breath and realize that it's just an inanimate object we're talking about, and that we all have differing levels of experience in a variety of areas. We can all learn from each other and be collectively better - or we can desire a vacuum in which to exist where we learn nothing and only receive hollow praise for everything.
> 
> OK I'll shut up now and go back in my hole.


Thus spake Diogenes; "get out of my light."

Were I not Aronnax, I would be Digicidal.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I would have gone with clear tubes to show off that coolant. But still looks good. When you are you going to sell the 690's and get Titans?


Was using Duralene for a few months both that started hazing. I'm really tired of clear tube crapping out. Just picked up some cheap primochill and I'm done. I don't have faith and don't want to dump a lot of money in Advance. The green dye is ok. I really should have researched the Emerald green first before buying some. The tube goes really well w/ the Alchemy extensions


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I think everyone needs to just take a breath and realize that it's just an inanimate object we're talking about, and that we all have differing levels of experience in a variety of areas. *We can all learn from each other and be collectively better - or we can desire a vacuum in which to exist where we learn nothing and only receive hollow praise for everything.* That's what they do in schools here now... giving all the 'participation trophies' and the like... unfortunately, in real life there is no such thing - and it's a hard lesson to learn apparently (based on the responses I've gotten from employees over the years).


Though I appreciate your sentiment, the bolded above is a false dichotomy. People can be constructive without being rude.

Also, they're not *just* inanimate objects. They're the mechanical embodiment of money, labor, and creative passion for the hobby.

In the end, if someone posts a cell phone picture with tons of noise, has 3' too much tubing in the loop, no angle adapters, and mismatched colors that make it look like a clown car, they're opening themselves up for some heavy and unflattering criticism. If someone posts an otherwise immaculate build and the only comment is akin to 'Sharp knees, wouldn't bang' because of a minor detail that might even be subjective in the first place, then I start to get a bit frustrated.

Again, this isn't personal at all for me. But, forum subcultures can easily be shaped by the members that participate. With all the effort BNeg and others have put into this, I just don't want to see it become some pit that is avoided by hobbyists due to the level of animosity. It's certainly not there, but much of OCN seems headed in that direction.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Though I appreciate your sentiment, the bolded above is a false dichotomy. People can be constructive without being rude.
> 
> Also, they're not *just* inanimate objects. They're the mechanical embodiment of money, labor, and creative passion for the hobby.
> 
> In the end, if someone posts a cell phone picture with tons of noise, has 3' too much tubing in the loop, no angle adapters, and mismatched colors that make it look like a clown car, they're opening themselves up for some heavy and unflattering criticism. If someone posts an otherwise immaculate build and the only comment is akin to 'Sharp knees, wouldn't bang' because of a minor detail that might even be subjective in the first place, then I start to get a bit frustrated.
> 
> Again, this isn't personal at all for me. But, forum subcultures can easily be shaped by the members that participate. With all the effort BNeg and others have put into this, I just don't want to see it become some pit that is avoided by hobbyists due to the level of animosity. It's certainly not there, but much of OCN seems headed in that direction.


Oh I'm not saying that criticism (at least _constructive_ criticism) must be rude - I'm simply stating that there are some people that are much better at accepting it than others - and the ability to accept criticism or not has absolutely no bearing on the quality of the criticism. I would even disagree that in your first illustration that the only constructive criticism necessary would be involving the 3' of extra tubing - and I don't care too much about that even. On the other hand, if they have their loop configured horribly (i.e. if their res is in between two rads and the pump is in between two blocks) - it would be just as 'evil' or 'indecent' of others on the thread not to draw attention to it immediately.

Now if said individual also came in and said "my rig is the best you've ever seen and it puts all of the rest of the rigs on here to shame" - then I think that person is opening themselves up for any matter of abuse. On the other hand if someone has the attitude of "this is my first rig - tell me what you think" and everything is tidy and well thought out... isn't it perfectly normal to have a much more positive response to that - even if the ultimate performance and component cost of the first rig are 20X greater?

OCN is a source for knowledge and sharing - on a huge variety of subjects. I for one would much rather have 100 people 'tear down my amateur mistakes' - because I can then learn not to make them again. And I'm also confident enough to decide if I feel that all 100 are completely insane and continue on my merry way. I think things aren't nearly as dark around these parts as you do.


----------



## wermad

Needs more green...









(you can see the Duralene in there, already hazy







)


----------



## axipher

Re-positioned my RAD so it wasn't hanging over the side. Much easier to lug around to LAN parties now.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needs more green...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (you can see the Duralene in there, already hazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Good lord that's a whole lot of gear! I know you're not happy with the cable-management side of things... but seriously just getting everything fitted, functional, and bled is an achievement in and of itself.









I think once you add some lighting (I presume green lighting at that) I think it will have 'just enough' - but then again more couldn't hurt either.









Sucks about the duralene, but at least it was cheap. Maybe you should just sleeve the tubing with green sleeve... then you won't know how cloudy it's getting. LOL!


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needs more green...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (you can see the Duralene in there, already hazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good, that is way more radiator than I would ever mess with! Always needs more green too, not enough builds in the "off" colors like green and yellow. How long have you been running the duralene for? I just built mine with some and didn't notice any haziness when I emptied it out after about a week, I hope it lasts decently.


----------



## wermad

^^^ About two months. After a month, i could notice a film developing inside.


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Looking good, that is way more radiator than I would ever mess with! Always needs more green too, not enough builds in the "off" colors like green and yellow. How long have you been running the duralene for? I just built mine with some and didn't notice any haziness when I emptied it out after about a week, I hope it lasts decently.


I'm still deciding on if I should do a black/yellow theme! How often do you see those? Now that I think about it I haven't seen any yet!


----------



## Michalius

Do you know what the Ph level of your water is?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Can't wait to see how bad my Durelene looks after nearly a year of continuous use. Will find out soon when I tear her down (but it still looks fine in the rig at the moment). Maybe red hides clouding better?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ About two months. After a month, i could notice a film developing inside.


Ah darn, I'm going to have to pay attention to it I guess. I wonder if I can notice with the pastel in it? We'll see.

How loud is your machine, there is a lot of fans in there?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needs more green...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (you can see the Duralene in there, already hazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn look at that space.... Ive ran out of room in My Asension it is now close cramped tight quarters to do anything.. Wish they made the case less tall and more long and wide lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Ah darn, I'm going to have to pay attention to it I guess. I wonder if I can notice with the pastel in it? We'll see.
> 
> How loud is your machine, there is a lot of fans in there?


28 fans all together. Most I've ever ran







. It is very audible at full speed, but I usually run all of them @ 40% w/ the fan controller. Its very quiet at 40%. The pump is the loudest thing when the fans are low. These fans can go even lower but my controller is limited to 40%.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Damn look at that space.... Ive ran out of room in My Asension it is now close cramped tight quarters to do anything.. Wish they made the case less tall and more long and wide lol.


Its gotten heavier. The top has a lot of space left. Could easily convert it to XL-ATX or HP-ATX.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Got around to taking EVEN BETTER pictures in the dark!






Spoiler: Warning: More Pictures!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> I'm still deciding on if I should do a black/yellow theme! How often do you see those? Now that I think about it I haven't seen any yet!


All the time...


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Got around to taking EVEN BETTER pictures in the dark!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: More Pictures!


I like all the custom paint, lots of effort on that machine. I think I like the Phantom better without the front door, I still have a white one in the closet just in case. Are those copper monsoon fittings?


----------



## Lazy Bear

They're adonised red Monsoon fittings.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> They're adonised red Monsoon fittings.


Oh ok, I looked again and I can tell in some of the pics. The reflections made it hard to tell what color they were. How do you like the frozenq bay res? I really wanted to buy one but I kept reading about leaks.


----------



## Lazy Bear

No leaks, love it.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Oh ok, I looked again and I can tell in some of the pics. The reflections made it hard to tell what color they were. How do you like the frozenq bay res? I really wanted to buy one but I kept reading about leaks.


Bay res works well. little pricey at 129$...

Only thing i can pick at it is tubing can be tough to run from it and mounting can be a pain.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Bay res works well. little pricey at 129$...
> 
> Only thing i can pick at it is tubing can be tough to run from it and mounting can be a pain.


Yeah, pricey but the only reason to really get one is because they look cool. Gotta pay to look









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> No leaks, love it.


I might look at them again then for future builds, I like my bitspower tube res but its a little plain I think.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yeah, pricey but the only reason to really get one is because they look cool. Gotta pay to look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might look at them again then for future builds, I like my bitspower tube res but its a little plain I think.


Yeah i love them i have 3 of them lol.

Anywho took B negs advice and picked up another pump.. figured i did not want to abuse my 1 mcp 35X so i added another...

This way if one fails i do not lose all the expensive hardware....

I do plan on running a duel loop in the future.... maybe when i do a Haswell / Broadwell build.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah i love them i have 3 of them lol.
> 
> Anywho took B negs advice and picked up another pump.. figured i did not want to abuse my 1 mcp 35X so i added another...
> 
> This way if one fails i do not lose all the expensive hardware....
> 
> I do plan on running a duel loop in the future.... maybe when i do a Haswell / Broadwell build.


With as much stuff ad you have in there I wouldn't hesitate to go dual pumps from the start, just to be safe.


----------



## fasttracker440

Well i got my new MB today and was finaly able to assemble everything i know the pics are crappy never took picks to post but here we go. Needless to say it needs some work. With the new mb i dont have the clearence i did have and now my rad wont fit in the top anymore only shy buy like 3mm but it gives me a reason to get a new case been looking at case labs cases either the MAGNUM M10 or MAGNUM M8 dont see a big diff between them but i am leaning towards the m10 any imput would be great ty


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yeah, pricey but the only reason to really get one is because they look cool. Gotta pay to look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might look at them again then for future builds, I like my bitspower tube res but its a little plain I think.


lol i prefer tube reservoirs.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Got around to taking EVEN BETTER pictures in the dark!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: More Pictures!


1 word...STUNNING.


----------



## mulberrycrush

Couldnt agree more. 1 in a million at least!


----------



## misterjimmy

Thought I'd contribute my build that I put together back in late November. I had some left over parts from my old set up, mainly cooling block, radiator and pump were recycled (2006). So far everything has been running very smooth.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setza*
> 
> Guys, I have a problem. I built this watercooled pc 2 weeks ago, and it's working fine and all, but it seems there is some electricity in the water. I can feel it whenever i touch any fitting or rad. There are only 3 things that could be the causes of this, the cpu block, the gpu block or the psu somehow. Is there any danger in running the pc like this? Any ideas as to how to fix it?. Also, it only goes away after I turn the PSU off, not the pc. Thanks for the input guys!


I know it sounds a bit simple but have you got the mobo standoffs in the right place? Any extras on the back that you have put in just because there was a hole?
Definitely a grounding issue as mentioned already.

Any voltage external to the wiring circuit is a potential danger,I would urge a strip down and rebuild,especially as water is involved.

You have a multi meter? Touch one probe on the rad/s affected and another on to a grounding pin (Central heating rads are great for this as the whole heating circuit is attached to a grounding pin) and see what reading you get.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needs more green...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (you can see the Duralene in there, already hazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Those 690's look right at home in there Werm.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know it sounds a bit simple but have you got the mobo standoffs in the right place? Any extras on the back that you have put in just because there was a hole?
> Definitely a grounding issue as mentioned already.
> 
> Any voltage external to the wiring circuit is a potential danger,I would urge a strip down and rebuild,especially as water is involved.
> 
> You have a multi meter? Touch one probe on the rad/s affected and another on to a grounding pin (Central heating rads are great for this as the whole heating circuit is attached to a grounding pin) and see what reading you get.


Definitely this. Great advice from BNEG as always.









I need to stop reading this thread, I'm itching to do a new watercooled build so hard right now, it makes my wallet cringe...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Are you thinking that water that once passes over the CPU will then become heated, transferring some of that to the chipset? If so, that is not the case. The water temp stays fairly uniform throughout the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe in some cases, but in the few that I tried it especially with the copper high serface area blcokes whichever one was connected to the outlet of the CPU block actually heated...... Makes sence to me.... Especially when overclocking the cpu....
Click to expand...

My SR 2 has 2 heavily OCd chips (2.6 stock to 4.1 OC) in series,the temps are pretty uniform between the 2,temps from one doesnt really affect the other,I have tested this while running both chips during stress testing (IBT and that is a heat monster) and extended testing thru Folding.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Maybe in some cases, but in the few that I tried it especially with the copper high serface area blcokes whichever one was connected to the outlet of the CPU block actually heated...... Makes sence to me.... Especially when overclocking the cpu....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really sure what you mean here, but Michalius is absolutely correct. The only place in your loop you will see significant variation in water temperature is between the inlet and outlet of a radiator. This is where you get the Delta T measurement from.
Click to expand...

+1

EDIT: As exemplified by Martins testing bench.



Images from Martinsliquidlab


----------



## RushMore1205

HELLO EVERYONE

many of you probobly dont remember me, but for all those who do, its defiantly very nice to be back
if you are interested in why i was gone PM me

let me tell you something, everyone who i left hanging when i had to go away i will make up and go above and beyond to make sure everyone is happy

RUSHMORE MODS, creater of SEXY RED GOT WET is back.

I am very excited to be starting on my new project after a very long break.

here is a small layout of how things are going to be looking like

WORK LOG incoming as soon as the project receives a name. but you best believe some of the best POWDER Coating is in order.


----------



## Pawelr98

For now i'm considering 2 waterblocks for my 6990.
Heatkiller 6990 Hole edition
EK-FC6990 Acetal + nickiel
They cost about the same so wchich one should i get.
I prefer lower temps and reliability instead of look.
Restriction is not a problem cause i have D5 laing around.
And do you think that 360mm + and 2 single 120mm rads is enough to cool the cpu and gpu while maintaining low cpu temps (i need <55°C under load).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> For now i'm considering 2 waterblocks for my 6990.
> Heatkiller 6990 Hole edition
> EK-FC6990 Acetal + nickiel
> They cost about the same so wchich one should i get.
> I prefer lower temps and reliability instead of look.
> Restriction is not a problem cause i have D5 laing around.
> And do you think that 360mm + and 2 single 120mm rads is enough to cool the cpu and gpu while maintaining low cpu temps (i need <55°C under load).


For me,the HK block has so much win that rainbows appear when you open the box.

Can you get backplates for both? They are pretty vital for such a long PCB,they help greatly with sagging.


----------



## Pawelr98

I can only get backplate for EK block. Will it work with HK block ? I also can get Alphacool NexXxoS ATXP Backplate.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I can only get backplate for EK block. Will it work with HK block ? I also can get Alphacool NexXxoS ATXP Backplate.


It *should* do as the mounting holes are all the same,in the interest of continuity perhaps you should go for the EK block then?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> HELLO EVERYONE
> 
> many of you probobly dont remember me, but for all those who do, its defiantly very nice to be back
> if you are interested in why i was gone PM me
> 
> let me tell you something, everyone who i left hanging when i had to go away i will make up and go above and beyond to make sure everyone is happy
> 
> RUSHMORE MODS, creater of SEXY RED GOT WET is back.
> 
> I am very excited to be starting on my new project after a very long break.
> 
> here is a small layout of how things are going to be looking like
> 
> WORK LOG incoming as soon as the project receives a name. but you best believe some of the best POWDER Coating is in order.


I remember you! Loved that build back in the day. Welcome back.









On another note I haven't seen ceaderman posting lately. Did he take a hiatus like myself or are you just lurking







.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It *should* do as the mounting holes are all the same,in the interest of continuity perhaps you should go for the EK block then?


I'm waiting for my EK-FC titan to arrive, tho, their backplate is simply plain back... i don't like it really much.
I did ask in their think-cell why there aren't more version of it and they told me this:
Quote:


> Hi Filipe,
> Thank you for your idea proposal.
> Unfortunatelly we had too much problems with our supplier who can nickel plate the aluminum that we decided not to offer it any more. We havent found another company that can do this for us and is relatively near to us.
> 
> Eddy


link: http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/ek-fc-titan-backplate-nickel


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> HELLO EVERYONE
> 
> many of you probobly dont remember me, but for all those who do, its defiantly very nice to be back
> if you are interested in why i was gone PM me
> 
> let me tell you something, everyone who i left hanging when i had to go away i will make up and go above and beyond to make sure everyone is happy
> 
> RUSHMORE MODS, creater of SEXY RED GOT WET is back.
> 
> I am very excited to be starting on my new project after a very long break.
> 
> here is a small layout of how things are going to be looking like
> 
> WORK LOG incoming as soon as the project receives a name. but you best believe some of the best POWDER Coating is in order.






Welcome Back!


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> I remember you! Loved that build back in the day. Welcome back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note I haven't seen ceaderman posting lately. Did he take a hiatus like myself or are you just lurking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


He's been "stuck" in Kansas a while. Last I heard from him he was still there anyway. We're on the same folding team and he popped in to say hi a few weeks ago.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


It's.....BEEEEE-UUUUUUU-TEEEEEE-FUULLLLL!!!

(You just cost me $200 in White Bitspower Fittings




























)


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> 3) Are the Alphacool comp fittings cheap looking in the flesh? I'm enticed by the price, I'd be saving well over $150 with these guys. Plus they are low profile, which I'm keen on with the fairly complex routing system I have going on.
> 
> 4) Where can I find Bitspower angled comp fittings in the US (7/16x5/8) at a good price? Both PPC's and FrozenCPU seem extremely limited at the moment. I'm going to need a total of 18-22 fittings, about 6 of which will be 90, 6 will be 45. I'll probably buy 8 of each just to be safe.


3) No, I don't think they are cheap looking. They are more "rugged, industrial" looking than the Bitspower fittings, but depending on the aesthetics you're trying to achieve, it could very well work in your favor. I don't know that I'd go with their silver fittings, but their "crinkled black" and their copper look very nice indeed!

4) I would say, don't buy them! Instead, buy the Rotary Angled Adapters, and then buy the compression fittings separately! It ends up costing the same, maybe even a bit cheaper (was about $45 less for me), and allows you to much more easily change tubing size (should you want to) as well as use "less common" tubing sizes with the more complex rotary/angled fittings


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah i love them i have 3 of them lol.
> 
> Anywho took B negs advice and picked up another pump.. figured i did not want to abuse my 1 mcp 35X so i added another...


I would definitely drop the speed on the pumps. You don't have enough blocks to justify 2 full speed MCP35Xs. Not enough pressure drop is a good way to kill DDCs.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For me,the HK block has so much win that rainbows appear when you open the box.
> 
> Can you get backplates for both? They are pretty vital for such a long PCB,they help greatly with sagging.


Agreed completely! Except that I got Rainbows AND Unicorns


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah i love them i have 3 of them lol.
> 
> Anywho took B negs advice and picked up another pump.. figured i did not want to abuse my 1 mcp 35X so i added another...
> 
> 
> 
> I would definitely drop the speed on the pumps. You don't have enough blocks to justify 2 full speed MCP35Xs. Not enough pressure drop is a good way to kill DDCs.
Click to expand...

Very true,running 35X at full speed in a low restriction loop will not end well,adjust the PWM curve to account for that.

Lowfat,I believe he has more blocks coming.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very true,running 35X at full speed in a low restriction loop will not end well,adjust the PWM curve to account for that.
> 
> Lowfat,I believe he has more blocks coming.


And you would be right 3x Alphacool Nexxos V2's

See to many people running heatkillers / EKblocks wanted to be different.

So is this enough to warrant 2x 35x full tilt?







So to those ref 7950 PCB users this confirms that there is another choice other then the EK blocks for you.

Performance Pc's has these in stock! Fit like a glove.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> 3) No, I don't think they are cheap looking. They are more "rugged, industrial" looking than the Bitspower fittings, but depending on the aesthetics you're trying to achieve, it could very well work in your favor. I don't know that I'd go with their silver fittings, but their "crinkled black" and their copper look very nice indeed!
> 
> 4) I would say, don't buy them! Instead, buy the Rotary Angled Adapters, and then buy the compression fittings separately! It ends up costing the same, maybe even a bit cheaper (was about $45 less for me), and allows you to much more easily change tubing size (should you want to) as well as use "less common" tubing sizes with the more complex rotary/angled fittings


TY for the information.

I was trying to avoid the angle adapters as much as possible because I've consistently had leak issues with them in the past. Considering how many fittings I will be using, reducing the amount of 'seals' in any way that I can otherwise seems like a good way to go.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very true,running 35X at full speed in a low restriction loop will not end well,adjust the PWM curve to account for that.
> 
> Lowfat,I believe he has more blocks coming.
> 
> 
> 
> And you would be right 3x Alphacool Nexxos V2's
> 
> See to many people running heatkillers / EKblocks wanted to be different.
> 
> So is this enough to warrant 2x 35x full tilt?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to those ref 7950 PCB users this confirms that there is another choice other then the EK blocks for you.
> 
> Performance Pc's has these in stock! Fit like a glove.
Click to expand...

Im using that same block and the back plate for RSurvivo2,good and easy on the wallet.
The point of 2 pumps was that you dont have to run them at full tilt ,they will be more reliable on a lower speed curve.
DDC's,the high powered ones anyway,are not the best at shedding heat load when run at full speed for extended durations as they dump it Airside rather than into the water like a D5,you could be wise in looking at heatsinks that Koolance and Swiftech offer.


----------



## Attacktrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Attacktrak*
> 
> Hi Guys, These is an update of my loop, the paint of back plate is more than i expected...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a sparkle paint job in there? if so i like it!
> 
> if it is dust get a Data vac lol.
Click to expand...

Nope, it is not gloss pait like Sparkle, il show you what i am talking about... it's mate.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> And you would be right 3x Alphacool Nexxos V2's
> 
> See to many people running heatkillers / EKblocks wanted to be different.
> 
> So is this enough to warrant 2x 35x full tilt?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to those ref 7950 PCB users this confirms that there is another choice other then the EK blocks for you.
> 
> Performance Pc's has these in stock! Fit like a glove.


Curse my 7950 with 7970 PCB !!! (why couldn't Alhacool do a single block right for both pcb's rather than two blocks







)

if you have by mere chance a card with a 7970 pcb (though i guess not everyone has a spare 7970 laying around) could you please check the possibility of compatibility?

do you plan using backplates for the cards?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Curse my 7950 with 7970 PCB !!! (why couldn't Alhacool do a single block right for both pcb's rather than two blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> if you have by mere chance a card with a 7970 pcb (though i guess not everyone has a spare 7970 laying around) could you please check the possibility of compatibility?
> 
> do you plan using backplates for the cards?


You can't have a block that fits both. The mounting holes are in completely different places, besides the locations of VRM's etc


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> And you would be right 3x Alphacool Nexxos V2's
> 
> See to many people running heatkillers / EKblocks wanted to be different.
> 
> So is this enough to warrant 2x 35x full tilt?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to those ref 7950 PCB users this confirms that there is another choice other then the EK blocks for you.
> 
> Performance Pc's has these in stock! Fit like a glove.
> 
> 
> 
> Curse my 7950 with 7970 PCB !!! (why couldn't Alhacool do a single block right for both pcb's rather than two blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> if you have by mere chance a card with a 7970 pcb (though i guess not everyone has a spare 7970 laying around) could you please check the possibility of compatibility?
> 
> do you plan using backplates for the cards?
Click to expand...

I have a V2 alphacool block and it doesn't fit on my ref 7970.


----------



## khemist

Got another 120 rad installed.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Got another 120 rad installed.


Do anything to your temps?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im using that same block and the back plate for RSurvivo2,good and easy on the wallet.
> The point of 2 pumps was that you dont have to run them at full tilt ,they will be more reliable on a lower speed curve.
> DDC's,the high powered ones anyway,are not the best at shedding heat load when run at full speed for extended durations as they dump it Airside rather than into the water like a D5,you could be wise in looking at heatsinks that Koolance and Swiftech offer.


Trying to get Dwood to make me a custom back plate.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Trying to get Dwood to make me a custom back plate.


Seems like he is overloaded with work right now.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Do anything to your temps?


Not sure yet, have to run some tests.

Edit - so far it's looking like it has taken 9 degrees off, before the gpu could hit 51c at 1.175v and now 42 is the highest i've seen with the fans turned up slightly.

I ended up sticking a noiseblocker e-loop 2400rpm on the 120mm.







on a fan controller of course.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> And you would be right 3x Alphacool Nexxos V2's
> 
> See to many people running heatkillers / EKblocks wanted to be different.
> 
> So is this enough to warrant 2x 35x full tilt?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to those ref 7950 PCB users this confirms that there is another choice other then the EK blocks for you.
> 
> Performance Pc's has these in stock! Fit like a glove.
> 
> 
> 
> Curse my 7950 with 7970 PCB !!! (why couldn't Alhacool do a single block right for both pcb's rather than two blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> if you have by mere chance a card with a 7970 pcb (though i guess not everyone has a spare 7970 laying around) could you please check the possibility of compatibility?
> 
> do you plan using backplates for the cards?
Click to expand...

I bought that block, Alphacool 7950 V2, first for my MSI TF3 7950 w/7970 PCB and no it will not fit at all. I ended up taking a large loss on it on eBay since I can't use the marketplace here yet and got a HK 7970 block which IMHO is the best 7970 block out there.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I bought that block, Alphacool 7950 V2, first for my MSI TF3 7950 w/7970 PCB and no it will not fit at all. I ended up taking a large loss on it on eBay since I can't use the marketplace here yet and got a HK 7970 block which IMHO is the best 7970 block out there.


It fits a Ref 7950 PCB "only this block and the EK fit the ref 7950 pcb" and afew 7970s.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I bought that block, Alphacool 7950 V2, first for my MSI TF3 7950 w/7970 PCB and no it will not fit at all. I ended up taking a large loss on it on eBay since I can't use the marketplace here yet and got a HK 7970 block which IMHO is the best 7970 block out there.
> 
> 
> 
> It fits a Ref 7950 PCB "only this block and the EK fit the ref 7950 pcb" and afew 7970s.
Click to expand...


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*


There is a Ref 7950 PCB and a Ref 7970 PCB this fits the Ref 7950 pcb..


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a Ref 7950 PCB and a Ref 7970 PCB this fits the Ref 7950 pcb..
Click to expand...

Oh that's what you meant lol, yeah I know that already. Sadly when I made that purchase originally I was relying on the Alphacool list of what cards the V1 and V2 blocks fit and at the time Alphacool listed all MSI TF3 7950s using the V2 block when in reality I needed the V1 block for a MSI 7950 with 7970 PCB. Alphacool didn't know MSI even made a 7950 w/7970 PCB. My fault for not doing more research and trusting an outdated comparability chart lol.

I'm happy it didn't fit though, I love my HK blocks.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Oh that's what you meant lol, yeah I know that already. Sadly when I made that purchase originally I was relying on the Alphacool list of what cards the V1 and V2 blocks fit and at the time Alphacool listed all MSI TF3 7950s using the V2 block when in reality I needed the V1 block for a MSI 7950 with 7970 PCB. Alphacool didn't know MSI even made a 7950 w/7970 PCB. My fault for not doing more research and trusting an outdated comparability chart lol.
> 
> I'm happy it didn't fit though, I love my HK blocks.


Yeah Heat killers are nice.

But this does have the Bling Bling effect and it matches all my Monsta rads lols.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> And you would be right 3x Alphacool Nexxos V2's
> 
> See to many people running heatkillers / EKblocks wanted to be different.
> 
> So is this enough to warrant 2x 35x full tilt?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to those ref 7950 PCB users this confirms that there is another choice other then the EK blocks for you.
> 
> Performance Pc's has these in stock! Fit like a glove.


Those alphacool blocks are gorgeous.


----------



## Hokies83

This is how it is looking atm still work in progress.. meh i will never get finished...

My last 7950 is in the mail should have it around Tuesday i hope..


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Westy*
> 
> Any Criticism on my first build?


consolidate ur HDD into 1 rack, get rid of the other rack, put in 200mm or 240mm rad in front


----------



## RKTGX95

i was wondering, how badly does dust impact cooling performance of rads? (since many builds i've seen don't have too much dust protection on the rads)


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And you would be right 3x Alphacool Nexxos V2's
> 
> See to many people running heatkillers / EKblocks wanted to be different.
> 
> So is this enough to warrant 2x 35x full tilt?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So to those ref 7950 PCB users this confirms that there is another choice other then the EK blocks for you.
> 
> Performance Pc's has these in stock! Fit like a glove
> 
> 
> .


So shinny.


----------



## KurruptAus

heres mine atm


----------



## GuitarFreak

Well, I haven't posted here in forever. Here's a few of my current setup.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuitarFreak*
> 
> Well, I haven't posted here in forever. Here's a few of my current setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not normally a fan of multi-color builds but I like the way the colors and lighting make it appear almost like a gradient across the board from blue to red. Looks pretty cool! What PSU is red like that (or is it painted)?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I'm not normally a fan of multi-color builds but I like the way the colors and lighting make it appear almost like a gradient across the board from blue to red. Looks pretty cool! What PSU is red like that (or is it painted)?


The Ghost Busters Slimer green is starting to grow on me.. i May have to do a budget loop in my HTPC lol.



+



= ?????

Even Oprah has gone Green @[email protected]


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

OK guys, I need some advice and I know this is the place to go! I'm building my SLI Titan loop tomorrow but EK hasn't released the SLI connector yet for my new Titan blocks so I am going to use Bitspower Crystal Link until they do. Problem is I've never used Crystal Link to connect VGA blocks and I'm not certain how to do it. I drew two diagrams of what I think a serial and parallel setup would look like and am wondering if the drawings are correct and which setup you would recommend? Please let me know asap as I will need to know soon! Thanks, I know I can count on you guys!

Parallel:


Serial:


----------



## Scorpion49

I would always go with parallel, less restriction.


----------



## fasttracker440

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasttracker440*
> 
> Well i got my new MB today and was finaly able to assemble everything i know the pics are crappy never took picks to post but here we go. Needless to say it needs some work. With the new mb i dont have the clearence i did have and now my rad wont fit in the top anymore only shy buy like 3mm but it gives me a reason to get a new case been looking at case labs cases either the MAGNUM M10 or MAGNUM M8 dont see a big diff between them but i am leaning towards the m10 any input would be great ty
> 
> I know i am quoting my self but i though i would pass on a nugget of info i got while installing the xspc water-block on my gtx 670 reference the I/O shileld around the hdmi port was hitting the plastic underneith and was/would have cause the card to bend if i had reefed on it but thanks to a pair of handy dandy pliers i was able to fix it


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK guys, I need some advice and I know this is the place to go! I'm building my SLI Titan loop tomorrow but EK hasn't released the SLI connector yet for my new Titan blocks so I am going to use Bitspower Crystal Link until they do. Problem is I've never used Crystal Link to connect VGA blocks and I'm not certain how to do it. I drew two diagrams of what I think a serial and parallel setup would look like and am wondering if the drawings are correct and which setup you would recommend? Please let me know asap as I will need to know soon! Thanks, I know I can count on you guys!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Parallel:
> 
> 
> Serial:


I ran both for a little while in my rig - didn't see any real change in temps, nor a significant change in flow (but then again probably because the CPU block is the most restrictive point anyway). I wound up going parallel just because I thought it looked better and provided a little more stability to the cards themselves (no backplates on the GPUs at the moment). Either way works fine. The one thing I did notice is that my GPU temps evened out a little more on the parallel setup (on block must not be seated quite as well). Differences were within margin of error on benches, etc... so hard to say if the load was just slightly easier when configured one way than when I tested it the other - it definitely wasn't a scientific test by any stretch of the imagination.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> This is how it is looking atm still work in progress.. meh i will never get finished...
> 
> My last 7950 is in the mail should have it around Tuesday i hope..


Looking good! Those blocks are so freakin' nice - and now those rads will finally start getting a workout (albeit a very tiny one still - but at least more than a single block was giving them). Too bad there isn't a block for that board - not like the chipset actually needs it - but since you've got cooling capacity for days (or maybe even months) beyond the cards and CPU ya might as well but something else under water too!


----------



## GuitarFreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I'm not normally a fan of multi-color builds but I like the way the colors and lighting make it appear almost like a gradient across the board from blue to red. Looks pretty cool! What PSU is red like that (or is it painted)?


It's a PC Power&Cooling Silencer 750w crossfire edition. I've had it for about 4 years or so and it's been quite solid. Only downside is it's not modular, so cable management is a *****.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuitarFreak*
> 
> It's a PC Power&Cooling Silencer 750w crossfire edition. I've had it for about 4 years or so and it's been quite solid. Only downside is it's not modular, so cable management is a *****.


Yeah, I've been using semi-modular myself and I have a hard time with just that much. You did a pretty good job of it especially in that case. I used to have a Cosmos S but I gave it to a buddy about a year ago.


----------



## GuitarFreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yeah, I've been using semi-modular myself and I have a hard time with just that much. You did a pretty good job of it especially in that case. I used to have a Cosmos S but I gave it to a buddy about a year ago.


Thanks.

The only downside is, I have so many cables on the backside of the motherboard tray that I can't really get the other side panel back on


----------



## misterjimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK guys, I need some advice and I know this is the place to go! I'm building my SLI Titan loop tomorrow but EK hasn't released the SLI connector yet for my new Titan blocks so I am going to use Bitspower Crystal Link until they do. Problem is I've never used Crystal Link to connect VGA blocks and I'm not certain how to do it. I drew two diagrams of what I think a serial and parallel setup would look like and am wondering if the drawings are correct and which setup you would recommend? Please let me know asap as I will need to know soon! Thanks, I know I can count on you guys!
> ]


Go Parallel. water flow is much better.


----------



## phillyd

I can't speak on this for sure but shouldn't it parallel and seri_es_? Not serial?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuitarFreak*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> The only downside is, I have so many cables on the backside of the motherboard tray that I can't really get the other side panel back on


Don't feel too bad, I just spent wads of cash on a caselabs case with tons of room behind the tray. I thought to myself "Self, just tie up all the cables right there and it will be fine, tons of room!". Well, I tied them all right where the door handle goes so it won't shut unless I remove the handle and have an awkward hole in my case... derp...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I can't speak on this for sure but shouldn't it parallel and seri_es_? Not serial?


They're totally cereal.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK guys, I need some advice and I know this is the place to go! I'm building my SLI Titan loop tomorrow but EK hasn't released the SLI connector yet for my new Titan blocks so I am going to use Bitspower Crystal Link until they do. Problem is I've never used Crystal Link to connect VGA blocks and I'm not certain how to do it. I drew two diagrams of what I think a serial and parallel setup would look like and am wondering if the drawings are correct and which setup you would recommend? Please let me know asap as I will need to know soon! Thanks, I know I can count on you guys!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Parallel:
> 
> 
> Serial:


Definitely parallel. I prefer the look of series, but you will see more flow with parallel. Generally more flow = better temps.


----------



## Hokies83

Yeah ima do Parallel with my Tri Sli.

I was going to do Serial.. But you guys changed my mind and i ordered 2 more Bitspower crystal links...


----------



## d3vour3r

add me please! I plan on taking some nice daylight photos one day. build log is in my sig.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Just got bored and finally took some meh pics of my rig since I put the GPU block into the loop.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK guys, I need some advice and I know this is the place to go! I'm building my SLI Titan loop tomorrow but EK hasn't released the SLI connector yet for my new Titan blocks so I am going to use Bitspower Crystal Link until they do. Problem is I've never used Crystal Link to connect VGA blocks and I'm not certain how to do it. I drew two diagrams of what I think a serial and parallel setup would look like and am wondering if the drawings are correct and which setup you would recommend? Please let me know asap as I will need to know soon! Thanks, I know I can count on you guys!


I would agree with the others on this one. 2 GPUs in parallel will only have 1/4 of the flow restriction compared to 2 GPUs in series, so I would defiantly go with that. Just like the resistance of a pair of 2 ohm resistors is 4 ohms in series but only 1 ohm in parallel.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK guys, I need some advice and I know this is the place to go! I'm building my SLI Titan loop tomorrow but EK hasn't released the SLI connector yet for my new Titan blocks so I am going to use Bitspower Crystal Link until they do. Problem is I've never used Crystal Link to connect VGA blocks and I'm not certain how to do it. I drew two diagrams of what I think a serial and parallel setup would look like and am wondering if the drawings are correct and which setup you would recommend? Please let me know asap as I will need to know soon! Thanks, I know I can count on you guys!
> 
> 
> 
> I would agree with the others on this one. 2 GPUs in parallel will only have 1/4 of the flow restriction compared to 2 GPUs in series, so I would defiantly go with that. Just like the resistance of a pair of 2 ohm resistors is 4 ohms in series but only 1 ohm in parallel.
Click to expand...

I went parallel with my quadfire 7970's and the temps are vastly superior. Be careful and have a care however about bleeding the air and pay special attention. Parallel takes a lot of flow especial;ly when cooling 3 and 4 card setups and can make bleeding the air more difficult. Even with multiple pumps. Make sure you don't get caught with and empty block. with 3 or four cards in parallel it can produce a large enough segment of air that it hides and gives the pumps nothing to bite on to push the air pocket through.

@ MURDoctrine,
What camera is that? those are gorgeous pics


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> @ MURDoctrine,
> What camera is that? those are gorgeous pics


Haha I am shocked at how well they turned out. It is a 7 year old Canon 5 mega pixel point and shoot. Thanks.

I just followed this guide by JoePhoto on the forums.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> @ MURDoctrine,
> What camera is that? those are gorgeous pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha I am shocked at how well they turned out. It is a 7 year old Canon 5 mega pixel point and shoot. Thanks.
> 
> I just followed this guide by JoePhoto on the forums.
Click to expand...

hehe, thats the answer I usually get. I have been amazed how well the old Nikon 5000 series did for me until last year. Those look great though.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Build log updated:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1368349/the-avatar-state-sm8/0_20


----------



## _REAPER_

Guys need some advice I just purchased the ROG Rampage IV Extreme mobo and want to block it.

What are the best blocks for this mobo?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Well since the other pictures turned out so well I took some without a bounce light. Think they turned out pretty good this time too







. This is what happens when I break my Skyrim with mods and do a clean install haha.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i was wondering, how badly does dust impact cooling performance of rads? (since many builds i've seen don't have too much dust protection on the rads)


It has a large impact as the dust acts as an insulator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> OK guys, I need some advice and I know this is the place to go! I'm building my SLI Titan loop tomorrow but EK hasn't released the SLI connector yet for my new Titan blocks so I am going to use Bitspower Crystal Link until they do. Problem is I've never used Crystal Link to connect VGA blocks and I'm not certain how to do it. I drew two diagrams of what I think a serial and parallel setup would look like and am wondering if the drawings are correct and which setup you would recommend? Please let me know asap as I will need to know soon! Thanks, I know I can count on you guys!
> 
> Parallel:
> 
> 
> Serial:


I would go serial,better cooling power to each block.
You may be improving overall flow but with each branch you are halving the flow thru those components
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah ima do Parallel with my Tri Sli.
> 
> I was going to do Serial.. But you guys changed my mind and i ordered 2 more Bitspower crystal links...


Why would you go for that? Your 35X require restriction to work well you know?

A little video showing why serial is a better method.




The reason you get more overall flow is that less water is actually circulating around the block,higher overall flow is a double edged sword as this makes laminar flow more pronounced,this is to be avoided as the cooling power of your loop is decreased.

I have never seen anyone get better temps with a parallel setup,they are normally on par or worse,not much testing (IE. Martin) has been been done on this so you can take this as my opinion rather than fact.
My own TriSLi setup is in series and the card temps are identical (34c fully loaded,last GPU sometimes goes to 35c),those thinking that series flow will negatively impact GPU temps are mistaken (in my loop at least this is not the case)

Bear in mind the difference's in temps between the 2 are a few degrees at worst.

Mainly this seems to be an aesthetic exercise.

I am more than willing to revise my opinion if empirical evidence can be shown to the contrary by users who have tested this in their own loop with both methods and good test methodology,Im sure im not the only one that would be interested in the results.


----------



## D33G33

I want to join SO BADLY I am just waiting on one part! I ordered a Fusion res on the 5/2 and have chased up a couple of times with no response. Today I asked if they would respond to my emails (and PM on here)m ship it or give me a refund withing 2 mins looks like they are organising a refund. Frustrating... why couldnt they just say they were working on it and its ETA would be xx/xx/xxxxx... Disappointing FrozenQ.

Regardless expect some goodies posted shortly after the Easter break! Great work to everyone that has posted pics, they are all awesome and very inspirational for my first watercooling build!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> I want to join SO BADLY I am just waiting on one part! I ordered a Fusion res on the 5/2 and have chased up a couple of times with no response. Today I asked if they would respond to my emails (and PM on here)m ship it or give me a refund withing 2 mins looks like they are organising a refund. Frustrating... why couldnt they just say they were working on it and its ETA would be xx/xx/xxxxx... Disappointing FrozenQ.
> 
> Regardless expect some goodies posted shortly after the Easter break! Great work to everyone that has posted pics, they are all awesome and very inspirational for my first watercooling build!


Thanks,the guys here put a lot of effort in to their builds,glad you found it inspirational.









In other news,TFC Admirals are coming to Specialtech!





This must be a preproduction model...at least i hope so,those tubes look like......something not good.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally posted by *B NEG*
> 
> I have never seen anyone get better temps with a parallel setup,they are normally on par or worse,not much testing (IE. Martin) has been been done on this so you can take this as my opinion rather than fact.
> 
> My own Trifire setup is in series and the card temps are identical (34c fully loaded,last GPU sometimes goes to 35c),those thinking that series flow will negatively impact GPU temps are mistaken (in my loop at least this is not the case)


Same here..always had better temps with my triple cards by going Serial.

N.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally posted by *B NEG*
> 
> I have never seen anyone get better temps with a parallel setup,they are normally on par or worse,not much testing (IE. Martin) has been been done on this so you can take this as my opinion rather than fact.
> 
> My own Trifire setup is in series and the card temps are identical (34c fully loaded,last GPU sometimes goes to 35c),those thinking that series flow will negatively impact GPU temps are mistaken (in my loop at least this is not the case)
> 
> 
> 
> Same here..always had better temps with my triple cards by going Serial.
> 
> N.
Click to expand...

I even have 2 heavily OC'd X5650's straight after them in series also and temps are even between the pair,after 1GPM flow makes such little difference to temps anyway,obsessing about getting maximum flow is a misplaced concern.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

It's huge.



















Would take a picture of the case itself, but going out soon and don't have time. What to do, what to do!


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> It's huge.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would take a picture of the case itself, but going out soon and don't have time. What to do, what to do!


I'd call you a tease good sir.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I even have 2 heavily OC'd X5650's straight after them in series also and temps are even between the pair,after 1GPM flow makes such little difference to temps anyway,obsessing about getting maximum flow is a misplaced concern.


Aye I Agree.....Although I've not done any real Test on flow rates v cooling, Only playing around for my own curiosity & didn't find much difference if at all unless you go silly low flow. But like I said I've not done any real properly monitored runs on this.Maybe when I get some time I might give it a closer look, but don't really feel it's going to achieve alot & is something I'm not personnaly really too concerned about









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> It's huge.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would take a picture of the case itself, but going out soon and don't have time. What to do, what to do!


Yeh It is quite a Huge Case







.. I have one that I use for doing my reviews in, But I had some issues with mine, with a PSU when fitted into the bottom bay was very tight & had to leave out a couple of bolts that hold the casters in place & cable management is a nightmare with mine, due too there not being enough cutouts for routing for cables apart from upfront of the bottom bay top/floor of the main Case & all cabling from the PSU needing to go this route..

I got mine soon after it was first released last year. So I'm hoping they have maybe sorted out a few of the problems by now I was experiencing... I hope so.. I'm looking forward & interested to see'ing how you find this one.

Good luck









N.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks,the guys here put a lot of effort in to their builds,glad you found it inspirational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news,TFC Admirals are coming to Specialtech!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This must be a preproduction model...at least i hope so,those tubes look like......something not good.


Dat rad. Ummm hmm







very nice.


----------



## dbthump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Dat rad. Ummm hmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very nice.


Seem's like an addiction to me...


----------



## jbmayes2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got another 120 rad installed.


BOOO!! Didn't you used to have yellow fluid?? (My build is slowly going yellow)


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks,the guys here put a lot of effort in to their builds,glad you found it inspirational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news,TFC Admirals are coming to Specialtech!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This must be a preproduction model...at least i hope so,those tubes look like......something not good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Those are so reminiscent of aquacomputer's airplex evo ...... I like the aesthetic!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks,the guys here put a lot of effort in to their builds,glad you found it inspirational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news,TFC Admirals are coming to Specialtech!
> 
> 
> 
> Do they make this in a 120 version?


----------



## hopelessnolifer

what is better EK-Ekoolant or destilled water + Feser Base - Corrosion Blocker,Mayhems Biocide Extreme?

EK-Supremacy - Acetal cpu water block
XSPC X2O 750 Dual Bayres/Pump
EX240 Dual Fan Radiator
XSPC HighFlex Hose tubes


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I guess I'm going to go with B Neg's advice and setup the video cards in series. I have a single D5, that should be plenty for only dual SLI right? Also, I am correct on setting up the crystal link this way right:



Thanks!


----------



## driftingforlife

Single D5 is fine. That is the right way.


----------



## Newbie2009

*SigRig, new case and extra radiator.*

I'm not one for looks of a case but if you think this looks bad you should see how it looked in the old case














Thanks SpecialTech, we love u.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I guess I'm going to go with B Neg's advice and setup the video cards in series. I have a single D5, that should be plenty for only dual SLI right? Also, I am correct on setting up the crystal link this way right:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Dont take my word for it,for the price of an extra d plug,you could find out if your loop is better one way or the other.

And one D5 is plenty for your loop Majin.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newbie2009*
> 
> *SigRig, new case and extra radiator.*
> 
> *Thanks SpecialTech, we love u.*


Yes...Yes we do!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> A little video showing why serial is a better method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason you get more overall flow is that less water is actually circulating around the block,higher overall flow is a double edged sword as this makes laminar flow more pronounced,this is to be avoided as the cooling power of your loop is decreased.
> 
> I have never seen anyone get better temps with a parallel setup,they are normally on par or worse,not much testing (IE. Martin) has been been done on this so you can take this as my opinion rather than fact.
> My own TriSLi setup is in series and the card temps are identical (34c fully loaded,last GPU sometimes goes to 35c),those thinking that series flow will negatively impact GPU temps are mistaken (in my loop at least this is not the case)
> 
> Bear in mind the difference's in temps between the 2 are a few degrees at worst.
> 
> Mainly this seems to be an aesthetic exercise.
> 
> 
> 
> I am more than willing to revise my opinion if empirical evidence can be shown to the contrary by users who have tested this in their own loop with both methods and good test methodology,Im sure im not the only one that would be interested in the results.


Not arguing just sharing my experience.

I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in series first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in serial first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.


I guess he means it depends on the pump you have.

I have 2x 35X which are kings of pressure and should flow fine in Series.

Even tho i did spend another 20$ for the extra 2 crystal links for parallel XD lol.

I just thought after cpu --> 7950 ---> 7950 --> 7950 that the last 7950 would suffer in Series =/


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newbie2009*
> 
> *SigRig, new case and extra radiator.*
> 
> I'm not one for looks of a case but if you think this looks bad you should see how it looked in the old case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks SpecialTech, we love u.


Looks fantastic! If anybody asks me "What should I do to upgrade my PC?" I will always say "get a new case and make it a BIG one".

Speaking of which I have just added a couple of Bitfenix Spectre Pro 200mm fans to my HAF X case, as seen below



Now a noobish question; if I want to watercool my RAM it seems that all the major makers seem to assume I must have Corsair Dominator RAM. I don't, I have Gskill Ripjaws X. So my question is - although most of the RAM is advertised for Corsair Dominator, will it actually fit other makes of RAM, once the heat spreaders are removed?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Looks fantastic! If anybody asks me "What should I do to upgrade my PC?" I will always say "get a new case and make it a BIG one".
> 
> Speaking of which I have just added a couple of Bitfenix Spectre Pro 200mm fans to my HAF X case, as seen below
> 
> 
> 
> Now a noobish question; if I want to watercool my RAM it seems that all the major makers seem to assume I must have Corsair Dominator RAM. I don't, I have Gskill Ripjaws X. So my question is - although most of the RAM is advertised for Corsair Dominator, will it actually fit other makes of RAM, once the heat spreaders are removed?


LoL yeah Big cases pwn


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> A little video showing why serial is a better method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason you get more overall flow is that less water is actually circulating around the block,higher overall flow is a double edged sword as this makes laminar flow more pronounced,this is to be avoided as the cooling power of your loop is decreased.
> 
> I have never seen anyone get better temps with a parallel setup,they are normally on par or worse,not much testing (IE. Martin) has been been done on this so you can take this as my opinion rather than fact.
> My own TriSLi setup is in series and the card temps are identical (34c fully loaded,last GPU sometimes goes to 35c),those thinking that series flow will negatively impact GPU temps are mistaken (in my loop at least this is not the case)
> 
> Bear in mind the difference's in temps between the 2 are a few degrees at worst.
> 
> Mainly this seems to be an aesthetic exercise.
> 
> 
> 
> I am more than willing to revise my opinion if empirical evidence can be shown to the contrary by users who have tested this in their own loop with both methods and good test methodology,Im sure im not the only one that would be interested in the results.
> 
> 
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in series first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.
Click to expand...

I wasnt arguing either.









By temps,do you mean all temps or just the CPU or GPU?

A D5 is more than enough for that loop,I cant see how the flow was lower in a series setup thru the GPUs when the video shown clearly shows flow being poorer in a parallel setup.


----------



## Red1776

I tried both methods on my latest quad rig and parallel takes a huge amount of flow, but once I established that with three pumps the temps are vastly superior to serial operation.
I read that same article that accompanies the video and there are a number of differences between that and mine including just the age of the setup, number of pumps, power of those pumps, blocks, bridge instead of links, 4 cards, etc.
The temp difference is in favor of the parallel by 9c.
I wouldn't go around recommending it because of the flow it takes to run parallel, but it is working very well for me in this case.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Thanks guys, I should be tearing the old loop down tonight and rebuilding tomorrow.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I tried both methods on my latest quad rig and parallel takes a huge amount of flow, but once I established that with three pumps the temps are vastly superior to serial operation.
> I read that same article that accompanies the video and there are a number of differences between that and mine including just the age of the setup, number of pumps, power of those pumps, blocks, bridge instead of links, 4 cards, etc.
> The temp difference is in favor of the parallel by 9c.
> I wouldn't go around recommending it because of the flow it takes to run parallel, but it is working very well for me in this case.


Pumping power is something im not short of....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in serial first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess he means it depends on the pump you have.
> 
> *I have 2x 35X which are kings of pressure* and should flow fine in Series.
> 
> Even tho i did spend another 20$ for the extra 2 crystal links for parallel XD lol.
> 
> I just thought after cpu --> 7950 ---> 7950 --> 7950 that the last 7950 would suffer in Series =/
Click to expand...

24v D5 Strongs are the Kings of Pressure at 8.4psi v 6.4 psi for the 35x........

I didnt buy them for nothing.









Still didnt get any improvement over serial and i have a crazy amount of heat sources in my loop. Perhaps my loop is too large to see improvement but i doubt it.

This is one 24v D5 thru 2 CPU blocks,3 FC GPU blocks,mobo block,VRM block,numerous 90's and 3 480 rads.







Good for surfing me thinks!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pumping power is something im not short of....
> 24v D5 Strongs are the Kings of Pressure at 8.4psi v 6.4 psi for the 35x........
> 
> I didnt buy them for nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still didnt get any improvement over serial and i have a crazy amount of heat sources in my loop. Perhaps my loop is too large to see improvement but i doubt it.
> 
> This is one 24v D5 thru 2 CPU blocks,3 FC GPU blocks,mobo block,VRM block,numerous 90's and 3 480 rads.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good for surfing me thinks!


What do you use to get 24v?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I tried both methods on my latest quad rig and parallel takes a huge amount of flow, but once I established that with three pumps the temps are vastly superior to serial operation.
> I read that same article that accompanies the video and there are a number of differences between that and mine including just the age of the setup, number of pumps, power of those pumps, blocks, bridge instead of links, 4 cards, etc.
> The temp difference is in favor of the parallel by 9c.
> I wouldn't go around recommending it because of the flow it takes to run parallel, but it is working very well for me in this case.
> 
> 
> 
> Pumping power is something im not short off....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in serial first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess he means it depends on the pump you have.
> 
> *I have 2x 35X which are kings of pressure* and should flow fine in Series.
> 
> Even tho i did spend another 20$ for the extra 2 crystal links for parallel XD lol.
> 
> I just thought after cpu --> 7950 ---> 7950 --> 7950 that the last 7950 would suffer in Series =/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 24v D5 Strongs are the Kings of Pressure at 8.4psi v 6.4 psi for the 35x........
> 
> I didnt buy them for nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still didnt get any improvement over serial and i have a crazy amount of heat sources in my loop. Perhaps my loop is too large to see improvement but i doubt it.
Click to expand...

I wish I knew more about fluid dynamics but you mention pressure. I am wondering if this is a matter of pressure or flow. When I put the third pump right out of the exit side of the bridge is when the jump occurred and there was a big lowering of temps. many people say that what order you have your loop doesn't matter, perhaps it makes a difference when you are cooling several cards in parallel?
I wish I knew , but it's working over here, hundreds of dollars in VPP-655 not withstanding.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I tried both methods on my latest quad rig and parallel takes a huge amount of flow, but once I established that with three pumps the temps are vastly superior to serial operation.
> I read that same article that accompanies the video and there are a number of differences between that and mine including just the age of the setup, number of pumps, power of those pumps, blocks, bridge instead of links, 4 cards, etc.
> The temp difference is in favor of the parallel by 9c.
> I wouldn't go around recommending it because of the flow it takes to run parallel, but it is working very well for me in this case.
> 
> 
> 
> Pumping power is something im not short off....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in serial first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess he means it depends on the pump you have.
> 
> *I have 2x 35X which are kings of pressure* and should flow fine in Series.
> 
> Even tho i did spend another 20$ for the extra 2 crystal links for parallel XD lol.
> 
> I just thought after cpu --> 7950 ---> 7950 --> 7950 that the last 7950 would suffer in Series =/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 24v D5 Strongs are the Kings of Pressure at 8.4psi v 6.4 psi for the 35x........
> 
> I didnt buy them for nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still didnt get any improvement over serial and i have a crazy amount of heat sources in my loop. Perhaps my loop is too large to see improvement but i doubt it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wish I knew more about fluid dynamics but you mention pressure. I am wondering if this is a matter of pressure or flow. When I put the third pump right out of the exit side of the bridge is when the jump occurred and there was a big lowering of temps. many people say that what order you have your loop doesn't matter, perhaps it makes a difference when you are cooling several cards in parallel?
> I wish I knew , but it's working over here, hundreds of dollars in VPP-655 not withstanding.
Click to expand...

D5's man,I love them too much....
You needed a third pump to get the improvement? No wonder your temps are remarkable for parallel,you wouldnt use a third in normal testing/use,I certainly wouldnt consider going that way. Is the 3rd pump responsible or is it parallel flow?
Maybe an Iwaki RD30 would be of more benefit to you?


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What do you use to get 24v?


Koolance have a 24v converter for it.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wasnt arguing either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By temps,do you mean all temps or just the CPU or GPU?
> 
> A D5 is more than enough for that loop,I cant see how the flow was lower in a series setup thru the GPUs when the video shown clearly shows flow being poorer in a parallel setup.


Oh I know I just wanted to make sure you knew I was not.

It's actually a GPU only loop, and the temp drop was for the GPU's. Like I said I didn't do anything scientific, just what happened for me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wasnt arguing either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By temps,do you mean all temps or just the CPU or GPU?
> 
> A D5 is more than enough for that loop,I cant see how the flow was lower in a series setup thru the GPUs when the video shown clearly shows flow being poorer in a parallel setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I know I just wanted to make sure you knew I was not.
> 
> It's actually a GPU only loop, and the temp drop was for the GPU's. Like I said I didn't do anything scientific, just what happened for me.
Click to expand...

Interesting,I am going to explore this further on teh bench,I have a burning need to know what variables are relevant now...

TO THE MAN CAVE AND GET ALL THE THINGS WET!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting,I am going to explore this further on teh bench,I have a burning need to know what variables are relevant now...
> 
> TO THE MAN CAVE AND GET ALL THE THINGS WET!


Yes please!

I have the crystal links to go either way.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I tried both methods on my latest quad rig and parallel takes a huge amount of flow, but once I established that with three pumps the temps are vastly superior to serial operation.
> I read that same article that accompanies the video and there are a number of differences between that and mine including just the age of the setup, number of pumps, power of those pumps, blocks, bridge instead of links, 4 cards, etc.
> The temp difference is in favor of the parallel by 9c.
> I wouldn't go around recommending it because of the flow it takes to run parallel, but it is working very well for me in this case.
> 
> 
> 
> Pumping power is something im not short off....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in serial first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess he means it depends on the pump you have.
> 
> *I have 2x 35X which are kings of pressure* and should flow fine in Series.
> 
> Even tho i did spend another 20$ for the extra 2 crystal links for parallel XD lol.
> 
> I just thought after cpu --> 7950 ---> 7950 --> 7950 that the last 7950 would suffer in Series =/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 24v D5 Strongs are the Kings of Pressure at 8.4psi v 6.4 psi for the 35x........
> 
> I didnt buy them for nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still didnt get any improvement over serial and i have a crazy amount of heat sources in my loop. Perhaps my loop is too large to see improvement but i doubt it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wish I knew more about fluid dynamics but you mention pressure. I am wondering if this is a matter of pressure or flow. When I put the third pump right out of the exit side of the bridge is when the jump occurred and there was a big lowering of temps. many people say that what order you have your loop doesn't matter, perhaps it makes a difference when you are cooling several cards in parallel?
> I wish I knew , but it's working over here, hundreds of dollars in VPP-655 not withstanding.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> D5's man,I love them too much....
> You needed a third pump to get the improvement? No wonder your temps are remarkable for parallel,you wouldnt use a third in normal testing/use,I certainly wouldnt consider going that way.
> Maybe an Iwaki RD30 would be of more benefit to you?
Click to expand...

I am scouting those yes.
I don't mind the three for redundancies sake, but the larger observation I made in all this was there is a threshold in flow or pressure (maybe both) when feeding four blocks in parallel just took off. The temps in serial were very good, but when I hit the flow rate needed to avoid the problem as seen in the video, they went to phenomenal. The temps moved up very little from idle. Like I said, I wish I knew more scientifically about what exactly the dynamic is. I will leave that to someone who knows more about fluid dynamics than I while I learn about it myself. I can surf in my res as well, but I am not going to complain about the results.
I posted earlier in this thread (more of a warning ) about parallel and bleeding the air because it can look ok when it in fact is not, so I am not recommending it to everybody.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I tried both methods on my latest quad rig and parallel takes a huge amount of flow, but once I established that with three pumps the temps are vastly superior to serial operation.
> I read that same article that accompanies the video and there are a number of differences between that and mine including just the age of the setup, number of pumps, power of those pumps, blocks, bridge instead of links, 4 cards, etc.
> The temp difference is in favor of the parallel by 9c.
> I wouldn't go around recommending it because of the flow it takes to run parallel, but it is working very well for me in this case.
> 
> 
> 
> Pumping power is something im not short off....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in serial first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess he means it depends on the pump you have.
> 
> *I have 2x 35X which are kings of pressure* and should flow fine in Series.
> 
> Even tho i did spend another 20$ for the extra 2 crystal links for parallel XD lol.
> 
> I just thought after cpu --> 7950 ---> 7950 --> 7950 that the last 7950 would suffer in Series =/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 24v D5 Strongs are the Kings of Pressure at 8.4psi v 6.4 psi for the 35x........
> 
> I didnt buy them for nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still didnt get any improvement over serial and i have a crazy amount of heat sources in my loop. Perhaps my loop is too large to see improvement but i doubt it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wish I knew more about fluid dynamics but you mention pressure. I am wondering if this is a matter of pressure or flow. When I put the third pump right out of the exit side of the bridge is when the jump occurred and there was a big lowering of temps. many people say that what order you have your loop doesn't matter, perhaps it makes a difference when you are cooling several cards in parallel?
> I wish I knew , but it's working over here, hundreds of dollars in VPP-655 not withstanding.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> D5's man,I love them too much....
> You needed a third pump to get the improvement? No wonder your temps are remarkable for parallel,you wouldnt use a third in normal testing/use,I certainly wouldnt consider going that way.
> Maybe an Iwaki RD30 would be of more benefit to you?
Click to expand...

I am scouting those yes.
I don't mind the three for redundancies sake, but the larger observation I made in all this was there is a threshold in flow or pressure (maybe both) when feeding four blocks in parallel just took off. The temps in serial were very good, but when I hit the flow rate needed to avoid the problem as seen in the video, they went to phenomenal. The temps moved up very little from idle. Like I said, I wish I knew more scientifically about what exactly the dynamic is. I will leave that to someone who knows more about fluid dynamics than I while I learn about it myself. I can surf in my res as well, but I am not going to complain about the results.
I posted earlier in this thread (more of a warning ) about parallel and bleeding the air because it can look ok when it in fact is not, so I am not recommending it to everybody.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting,I am going to explore this further on teh bench,I have a burning need to know what variables are relevant now...
> 
> TO THE MAN CAVE AND GET ALL THE THINGS WET!


Haha that sounds great!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wasnt arguing either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By temps,do you mean all temps or just the CPU or GPU?
> 
> A D5 is more than enough for that loop,I cant see how the flow was lower in a series setup thru the GPUs when the video shown clearly shows flow being poorer in a parallel setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I know I just wanted to make sure you knew I was not.
> 
> It's actually a GPU only loop, and the temp drop was for the GPU's. Like I said I didn't do anything scientific, just what happened for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Interesting,I am going to explore this further on teh bench,I have a burning need to know what variables are relevant now...
> 
> TO THE MAN CAVE AND GET ALL THE THINGS WET!
Click to expand...

Don't forget the beer!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I tried both methods on my latest quad rig and parallel takes a huge amount of flow, but once I established that with three pumps the temps are vastly superior to serial operation.
> I read that same article that accompanies the video and there are a number of differences between that and mine including just the age of the setup, number of pumps, power of those pumps, blocks, bridge instead of links, 4 cards, etc.
> The temp difference is in favor of the parallel by 9c.
> I wouldn't go around recommending it because of the flow it takes to run parallel, but it is working very well for me in this case.
> 
> 
> 
> Pumping power is something im not short off....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in serial first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess he means it depends on the pump you have.
> 
> *I have 2x 35X which are kings of pressure* and should flow fine in Series.
> 
> Even tho i did spend another 20$ for the extra 2 crystal links for parallel XD lol.
> 
> I just thought after cpu --> 7950 ---> 7950 --> 7950 that the last 7950 would suffer in Series =/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 24v D5 Strongs are the Kings of Pressure at 8.4psi v 6.4 psi for the 35x........
> 
> I didnt buy them for nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still didnt get any improvement over serial and i have a crazy amount of heat sources in my loop. Perhaps my loop is too large to see improvement but i doubt it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wish I knew more about fluid dynamics but you mention pressure. I am wondering if this is a matter of pressure or flow. When I put the third pump right out of the exit side of the bridge is when the jump occurred and there was a big lowering of temps. many people say that what order you have your loop doesn't matter, perhaps it makes a difference when you are cooling several cards in parallel?
> I wish I knew , but it's working over here, hundreds of dollars in VPP-655 not withstanding.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> D5's man,I love them too much....
> You needed a third pump to get the improvement? No wonder your temps are remarkable for parallel,you wouldnt use a third in normal testing/use,I certainly wouldnt consider going that way.
> Maybe an Iwaki RD30 would be of more benefit to you?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am scouting those yes.
> I don't mind the three for redundancies sake, but the larger observation I made in all this was there is a threshold in flow or pressure (maybe both) when feeding four blocks in parallel just took off. The temps in serial were very good, but when I hit the flow rate needed to avoid the problem as seen in the video, they went to phenomenal. The temps moved up very little from idle. Like I said, I wish I knew more scientifically about what exactly the dynamic is. I will leave that to someone who knows more about fluid dynamics than I while I learn about it myself. I can surf in my res as well, but I am not going to complain about the results.
> I posted earlier in this thread (more of a warning ) about parallel and bleeding the air because it can look ok when it in fact is not, so I am not recommending it to everybody.
Click to expand...

A sound explanation with no willy waving. +rep

You think that there maybe is a flow limit that needs to be breached before reaping the benefit of parallel?


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I made in all this was there is a threshold in flow or pressure (maybe both) when feeding four blocks in parallel just took off. The temps in serial were very good, but when I hit the flow rate needed to avoid the problem as seen in the video, they went to phenomenal. The temps moved up very little from idle. Like I said, I wish I knew more scientifically about what exactly the dynamic is. I will leave that to someone who knows more about fluid dynamics than I while I learn about it myself.


Hmm, this is very interesting. It could of course be that the blocks weren't fully bled with 'just' two pumps, and that the third pump was necessary for the air to blow out completely and so to gain that big temperature improvement. On the other hand, when the third pump already receives water at quite a high pressure it would focus all it's energy in flow (very simplified, since pressure actually means flow, but in some way it just does make sense)

On another note, I just finished the render of my first watercooling loop and love to hear everyones thoughts on it. My own thread is here

Little teaser:


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I tried both methods on my latest quad rig and parallel takes a huge amount of flow, but once I established that with three pumps the temps are vastly superior to serial operation.
> I read that same article that accompanies the video and there are a number of differences between that and mine including just the age of the setup, number of pumps, power of those pumps, blocks, bridge instead of links, 4 cards, etc.
> The temp difference is in favor of the parallel by 9c.
> I wouldn't go around recommending it because of the flow it takes to run parallel, but it is working very well for me in this case.
> 
> 
> 
> Pumping power is something im not short off....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in serial first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess he means it depends on the pump you have.
> 
> *I have 2x 35X which are kings of pressure* and should flow fine in Series.
> 
> Even tho i did spend another 20$ for the extra 2 crystal links for parallel XD lol.
> 
> I just thought after cpu --> 7950 ---> 7950 --> 7950 that the last 7950 would suffer in Series =/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 24v D5 Strongs are the Kings of Pressure at 8.4psi v 6.4 psi for the 35x........
> 
> I didnt buy them for nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still didnt get any improvement over serial and i have a crazy amount of heat sources in my loop. Perhaps my loop is too large to see improvement but i doubt it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wish I knew more about fluid dynamics but you mention pressure. I am wondering if this is a matter of pressure or flow. When I put the third pump right out of the exit side of the bridge is when the jump occurred and there was a big lowering of temps. many people say that what order you have your loop doesn't matter, perhaps it makes a difference when you are cooling several cards in parallel?
> I wish I knew , but it's working over here, hundreds of dollars in VPP-655 not withstanding.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> D5's man,I love them too much....
> You needed a third pump to get the improvement? No wonder your temps are remarkable for parallel,you wouldnt use a third in normal testing/use,I certainly wouldnt consider going that way.
> Maybe an Iwaki RD30 would be of more benefit to you?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am scouting those yes.
> I don't mind the three for redundancies sake, but the larger observation I made in all this was there is a threshold in flow or pressure (maybe both) when feeding four blocks in parallel just took off. The temps in serial were very good, but when I hit the flow rate needed to avoid the problem as seen in the video, they went to phenomenal. The temps moved up very little from idle. Like I said, I wish I knew more scientifically about what exactly the dynamic is. I will leave that to someone who knows more about fluid dynamics than I while I learn about it myself. I can surf in my res as well, but I am not going to complain about the results.
> I posted earlier in this thread (more of a warning ) about parallel and bleeding the air because it can look ok when it in fact is not, so I am not recommending it to everybody.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A sound explanation with no willy waving. +rep
> 
> You think that there maybe is a flow limit that needs to be breached before reaping the benefit of parallel?
Click to expand...

Hey thanks








It sure seemed that way to me. I was not using clear blocks but with two pumps it would not bleed fully and air kept popping up in dime size pockets. when I added the third pump there was a long segment of air that went back into the bridge keeping the pump from ' biting' for lack of a better term letting it always bleed back. when the third pump took hold ( I had to bust up the long segment of air) you could hear the "pop' and it took off pushing all the air out , the pumps got even quieter, etc. That is when the load temps went from good to great.
I am surmising that that is the threshold when the insufficient flow (as in the video) ceased.
I am afraid until I can look into it more, that is the best I can do not having clear blocks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I tried both methods on my latest quad rig and parallel takes a huge amount of flow, but once I established that with three pumps the temps are vastly superior to serial operation.
> I read that same article that accompanies the video and there are a number of differences between that and mine including just the age of the setup, number of pumps, power of those pumps, blocks, bridge instead of links, 4 cards, etc.
> The temp difference is in favor of the parallel by 9c.
> I wouldn't go around recommending it because of the flow it takes to run parallel, but it is working very well for me in this case.
> 
> 
> 
> Pumping power is something im not short off....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Not arguing just sharing my experience.
> 
> I have not done anything even close to scientific testing, but it seems that at a certain point if flow drops too low temps do indeed start to go up. I had my tri-sli 580's set up in serial first (dedicated D5, 250ml res, Alphacool 420 rad) and temps were ok. You could clearly see though that flow was quite low. I picked up an EK tri bridge and ran in parallel and saw my temps drop considerably (4-5 degrees C average) and the flow was up as well. Obviously there are many variables involved, but it was pretty plain for me that parallel was the way to go.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess he means it depends on the pump you have.
> 
> *I have 2x 35X which are kings of pressure* and should flow fine in Series.
> 
> Even tho i did spend another 20$ for the extra 2 crystal links for parallel XD lol.
> 
> I just thought after cpu --> 7950 ---> 7950 --> 7950 that the last 7950 would suffer in Series =/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 24v D5 Strongs are the Kings of Pressure at 8.4psi v 6.4 psi for the 35x........
> 
> I didnt buy them for nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still didnt get any improvement over serial and i have a crazy amount of heat sources in my loop. Perhaps my loop is too large to see improvement but i doubt it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wish I knew more about fluid dynamics but you mention pressure. I am wondering if this is a matter of pressure or flow. When I put the third pump right out of the exit side of the bridge is when the jump occurred and there was a big lowering of temps. many people say that what order you have your loop doesn't matter, perhaps it makes a difference when you are cooling several cards in parallel?
> I wish I knew , but it's working over here, hundreds of dollars in VPP-655 not withstanding.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> D5's man,I love them too much....
> You needed a third pump to get the improvement? No wonder your temps are remarkable for parallel,you wouldnt use a third in normal testing/use,I certainly wouldnt consider going that way.
> Maybe an Iwaki RD30 would be of more benefit to you?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am scouting those yes.
> I don't mind the three for redundancies sake, but the larger observation I made in all this was there is a threshold in flow or pressure (maybe both) when feeding four blocks in parallel just took off. The temps in serial were very good, but when I hit the flow rate needed to avoid the problem as seen in the video, they went to phenomenal. The temps moved up very little from idle. Like I said, I wish I knew more scientifically about what exactly the dynamic is. I will leave that to someone who knows more about fluid dynamics than I while I learn about it myself. I can surf in my res as well, but I am not going to complain about the results.
> I posted earlier in this thread (more of a warning ) about parallel and bleeding the air because it can look ok when it in fact is not, so I am not recommending it to everybody.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A sound explanation with no willy waving. +rep
> 
> You think that there maybe is a flow limit that needs to be breached before reaping the benefit of parallel?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sure seemed that way to me. I was not using clear blocks but with two pumps it would not bleed fully and air kept popping up in dime size pockets. when I added the third pump there was a long segment of air that went back into the bridge keeping the pump from ' biting' for lack of a better term letting it always bleed back. when the third pump took hold ( I had to bust up the long segment of air) you could hear the "pop' and it took off pushing all the air out , the pumps got even quieter, etc. That is when the load temps went from good to great.
> I am surmising that that is the threshold when the insufficient flow (as in the video) ceased.
> I am afraid until I can look into it more, that is the best I can do not having clear blocks.
Click to expand...

I will try to get 4 of the same blocks on loan and do tests in Sli,Tri Sli and Quad Sli and see what pumping power is need to work each effectively,I can only test Sli heat difference as im not pulling my SR-2 apart for th 670's and I only have 2 7970's available to use for the bench


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I made in all this was there is a threshold in flow or pressure (maybe both) when feeding four blocks in parallel just took off. The temps in serial were very good, but when I hit the flow rate needed to avoid the problem as seen in the video, they went to phenomenal. The temps moved up very little from idle. Like I said, I wish I knew more scientifically about what exactly the dynamic is. I will leave that to someone who knows more about fluid dynamics than I while I learn about it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, this is very interesting. It could of course be that the blocks weren't fully bled with 'just' two pumps, and that the third pump was necessary for the air to blow out completely and so to gain that big temperature improvement. On the other hand, when the third pump already receives water at quite a high pressure it would focus all it's energy in flow (very simplified, since pressure actually means flow, but in some way it just does make sense)
> 
> On another note, I just finished the render of my first watercooling loop and love to hear everyones thoughts on it. My own thread is here
> 
> Little teaser:
Click to expand...

I would say that was not the case only for everything I did to bleed it, and how quickly and in the definitive manner it improved with the addition of the third pump, however I would add the caveat that I don't even know if your loop is only as unrestricted as your least restricted component. It would seem that would be the case, but if I am wrong about that, than every supposition I make after it is incorrect as well. ...and my whole theory is in the tank...eh...eh...now I'm doing B's shtick hehe









That looks great














going to hackintosh ey? is this going to be a Zeon setup?


----------



## Dzuks

Anybody know where I can get sturdy 1/2 ID x 5/8 tubing?


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I would say that was not the case only for everything I did to bleed it, and how quickly and in the definitive manner it improved with the addition of the third pump, however I would add the caveat that I don't even know if your loop is only as unrestricted as your least restricted component. It would seem that would be the case, but if I am wrong about that, than every supposition I make after it is incorrect as well. ...and my whole theory is in the tank...eh...eh...now I'm doing B's shtick hehe


In theory you're right, just as electricity water takes the route of least restriction. Funny thing that comes to mind now though is that the restriction of one block that's fully bled is lower than the restriction of one with big air pockets trapped inside. If only one block is fully bled all the flow wants to go through that one, however due to increased restriction at those high flows the pressure builds up causing the air bubble in the second card to 'pop'. As the total flow is now spread over two cards the pressure over the two cards that are left with air inside. Even if you manage to 'pop' the pressure in the third card the last card will be a pain in the









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> That looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> going to hackintosh ey? is this going to be a Zeon setup?


Thanks!








I suppose you mean Xeon? If not, what's a Zeon?








But no, I'm going for a 3770k, keeping everything hackingtosh compatible though, probably will throw OSX on a small portion of the SSD just for the hell of it. Even though for games and 3D Cad OSX really does suck, it still warms up my heart every time when I come back from windows xD


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Hmm, this is very interesting. It could of course be that the blocks weren't fully bled with 'just' two pumps, and that the third pump was necessary for the air to blow out completely and so to gain that big temperature improvement. On the other hand, when the third pump already receives water at quite a high pressure it would focus all it's energy in flow (very simplified, since pressure actually means flow, but in some way it just does make sense)
> 
> On another note, I just finished the render of my first watercooling loop and love to hear everyones thoughts on it. My own thread is here
> 
> Little teaser:


Really liking the look of that build. What program did you use to make and render it?


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Anybody know where I can get sturdy 1/2 ID x 5/8 tubing?


I really like the masterclear 12.7x15.9 but wouldn't call it sturdy as its super flexible.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Really liking the look of that build. What program did you use to make and render it?


I've drawn every single component in Solidworks myself, the final renders have been made in Keyshot 3.
Due to the detail in the case (all the holes) and the 180mm rad and not to forget the Eloops (reflective curves over three axis, nope, keyshot sure doesn't like that) these renders have taken 2 to 6 hours each. (the little video that I posted in my own thread took 24 hours)
To be honest the quality isn't bad at all (except for the vid) but it's no-where near what I'd normally would like to see. There still is serious 'noise' on the raystorm as well as on the tubing, but fixing that would probably take 10 times as long, and 60 hours for a render is a bit much


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I would say that was not the case only for everything I did to bleed it, and how quickly and in the definitive manner it improved with the addition of the third pump, however I would add the caveat that I don't even know if your loop is only as unrestricted as your least restricted component. It would seem that would be the case, but if I am wrong about that, than every supposition I make after it is incorrect as well. ...and my whole theory is in the tank...eh...eh...now I'm doing B's shtick hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In theory you're right, just as electricity water takes the route of least restriction. Funny thing that comes to mind now though is that the restriction of one block that's fully bled is lower than the restriction of one with big air pockets trapped inside. If only one block is fully bled all the flow wants to go through that one, however due to increased restriction at those high flows the pressure builds up causing the air bubble in the second card to 'pop'. As the total flow is now spread over two cards the pressure over the two cards that are left with air inside. Even if you manage to 'pop' the pressure in the third card the last card will be a pain in the
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> That looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> going to hackintosh ey? is this going to be a Zeon setup?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose you mean Xeon? If not, what's a Zeon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But no, I'm going for a 3770k, keeping everything hackingtosh compatible though, probably will throw OSX on a small portion of the SSD just for the hell of it. Even though for games and 3D Cad OSX really does suck, it still warms up my heart every time when I come back from windows xD
Click to expand...

...geeez, my brain is toasted ..yes Xeon hehe.
And it was a colossal pain to bleed them all and it was all hung up right at the exit if the bridge. I just spoke with Joe @ Frozen CPU who gave me a ton of really great info Via Skinnee that gave me a jumping off point for all this. and thanks for the info









I hope you do a build log or semi log on that machine of yours. It's unique and very elegant. I would like to see it as you go along. Very nice project.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> ...geeez, my brain is toasted ..yes Xeon hehe.
> And it was a colossal pain to bleed them all and it was all hung up right at the exit if the bridge. I just spoke with Joe @ Frozen CPU who gave me a ton of really great info Via Skinnee that gave me a jumping off point for all this. and thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you do a build log or semi log on that machine of yours. It's unique and very elegant. I would like to see it as you go along. Very nice project.


Haha, no problem, and thanks







The air holding up at that spot does make a lot of sense hehe

Anyways, I am planning to hold a build log (probably will just stick to that other thread) however don't expect too much too soon, still got to get the financing right. Since I currently have no hardware what so ever it will be quite a bit of expenses in one go.
I probably won't be able to resist to order the rads and fans before I can afford the main hardware though. That way I can make sure my measurements are 100% right and start cutting ( + ask the workplace guy at school very nicely if he can cut out the two horizontal plates plus the mount for the 180mm rad on the CNC laser for me)
It would be great if I can have that finished before the summer, when my taxes come back around june/july (plus some interest on a nice savings account) I'd be far along the way and probably will have enough to put everything together.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> ...geeez, my brain is toasted ..yes Xeon hehe.
> And it was a colossal pain to bleed them all and it was all hung up right at the exit if the bridge. I just spoke with Joe @ Frozen CPU who gave me a ton of really great info Via Skinnee that gave me a jumping off point for all this. and thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you do a build log or semi log on that machine of yours. It's unique and very elegant. I would like to see it as you go along. Very nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, no problem, and thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The air holding up at that spot does make a lot of sense hehe
> 
> Anyways, I am planning to hold a build log (probably will just stick to that other thread) however don't expect too much too soon, still got to get the financing right. Since I currently have no hardware what so ever it will be quite a bit of expenses in one go.
> I probably won't be able to resist to order the rads and fans before I can afford the main hardware though. That way I can make sure my measurements are 100% right and start cutting ( + ask the workplace guy at school very nicely if he can cut out the two horizontal plates plus the mount for the 180mm rad on the CNC laser for me)
> It would be great if I can have that finished before the summer, when my taxes come back around june/july (plus some interest on a nice savings account) I'd be far along the way and probably will have enough to put everything together.
Click to expand...

I can wait........


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> add me please! I plan on taking some nice daylight photos one day. build log is in my sig.


the friggin sexy rig!


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Parallel:


could someone explain to me how this works (the flow) I'm kinda confused... or link me to a better pic that shows it.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> I've drawn every single component in Solidworks myself, the final renders have been made in Keyshot 3.
> Due to the detail in the case (all the holes) and the 180mm rad and not to forget the Eloops (reflective curves over three axis, nope, keyshot sure doesn't like that) these renders have taken 2 to 6 hours each. (the little video that I posted in my own thread took 24 hours)
> To be honest the quality isn't bad at all (except for the vid) but it's no-where near what I'd normally would like to see. There still is serious 'noise' on the raystorm as well as on the tubing, but fixing that would probably take 10 times as long, and 60 hours for a render is a bit much


Hmmm, thought it might be Solidworks. I just started using it at school and it's so much more intuitive than AutoCAD. I'll need to find myself a copy somewhere.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> could someone explain to me how this works (the flow) I'm kinda confused... or link me to a better pic that shows it.


The best way for me to visualize in my head is to think of a fork in the road. The water comes from one lane. Splits into two then joins back into one

Edit: Here is my epic paint skillz

.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> could someone explain to me how this works (the flow) I'm kinda confused... or link me to a better pic that shows it.


Sorry that was just a quick MSPaint drawing I did. Parallel just means that water flows through both blocks at the same time and shares the water between them (each get 50% of the flow in dual card setups). Series simply means that the water has no choice but to go all the way through the first block then to the next block so that each card gets 100% of the water but the restriction is higher.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Sorry that was just a quick MSPaint drawing I did. Parallel just means that water flows through both blocks at the same time and shares the water between them *(each get 50% of the flow in dual card* setups). Series simply means that the water has no choice but to go all the way through the first block then to the next block so that each card gets 100% of the water but the restriction is higher.


Hmm wonder what happens for 3 cards.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Hmm wonder what happens for 3 cards.


Each card gets 33%, would be my guess.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> could someone explain to me how this works (the flow) I'm kinda confused... or link me to a better pic that shows it.


series: water enters block 1, goes through block 1, exits block 1 and travels to block 2 (which it passes etc..)
parallel: water splits up and enters block 1 ánd 2, travels through both blocks simultaneously and joins again at exit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Hmmm, thought it might be Solidworks. I just started using it at school and it's so much more intuitive than AutoCAD. I'll need to find myself a copy somewhere.


I've been using 'occasionally' (that is in bursts of hours a week every now and then) for 3 years now. Once you get the hang of it it's a really great program, until you reach it's limitations that is. Too many concentric/merge relations in one sketch are enough to render solidworks useless. When I tried to make the holes in the case first time around I had the holes connected slightly inefficiently with construction lines, once I tried to do the extruded cut Solidworks just said (after 5 minutes ofc) no can do, or well, it just didn't do anything and forgot about the feature it was trying to do








There are bigger 'brothers' of solidworks, which work essentially the same but are able to deal with such cases a lot better, but since I have to use solidworks at school I'll stick to it for now


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> The best way for me to visualize in my head is to think of a fork in the road. The water comes from one lane. Splits into two then joins back into one
> 
> Edit: Here is my epic paint skillz
> 
> .


oh wow, thanks







makes much more sense now


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> The best way for me to visualize in my head is to think of a fork in the road. The water comes from one lane. Splits into two then joins back into one
> 
> Edit: Here is my epic paint skillz
> 
> .


I've been told on forums such as these and in YouTube videos (by well respected water coolers) that this is the most efficient way to cool an SLI configuration, because the coolant isn't being reused by being transferred from one block to the next - but rather cool water entering both blocks simultaneously, and warmer exiting simultaneously. Once I start my SLI this summer, this will most likely be the way I'll go... Plus it looks cool.


----------



## Michalius

I am going to stop tiptoeing around it and just bite the bullet.

Pipe bending, here I come. BNeg, thank you for inspiring this as well as your extremely helpful guide.

*edit*

What say you OCN? Should I go for Nickel/Cu pipe or get some Cu pipe and paint it dark grey? I like the idea of a flat color contrasting the shiny blocks.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I am going to stop tiptoeing around it and just bite the bullet.
> 
> Pipe bending, here I come. BNeg, thank you for inspiring this as well as your extremely helpful guide.
> 
> *edit*
> 
> What say you OCN? Should I go for Nickel/Cu pipe or get some Cu pipe and paint it dark grey? I like the idea of a flat color contrasting the shiny blocks.


Definitely flat dark grey!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I am going to stop tiptoeing around it and just bite the bullet.
> 
> Pipe bending, here I come. BNeg, thank you for inspiring this as well as your extremely helpful guide.
> 
> *edit*
> 
> What say you OCN? Should I go for Nickel/Cu pipe or get some Cu pipe and paint it dark grey? I like the idea of a flat color contrasting the shiny blocks.












Once you have a go you will be amazed how easy it actually is.


----------



## sebar

I did it and love the results. It was not overly difficult.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Hey, It's been a while since I have posted anything here, but thought I would post some pictures of my Tj11 that I have been working on. It's about 70% finished but it's up and running. I used Acrylic tubing and really like it.

Let me know what you think so far. I hope to start a build log this weekend.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Hey, It's been a while since I have posted anything here, but thought I would post some pictures of my Tj11 that I have been working on. It's about 70% finished but it's up and running. I used Acrylic tubing and really like it.
> 
> Let me know what you think so far. I hope to start a build log this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like this,very clean.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like this,very clean.


Thank you, after what you said about the bends the way I was going to do it this is what I came up with.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Hey, It's been a while since I have posted anything here, but thought I would post some pictures of my Tj11 that I have been working on. It's about 70% finished but it's up and running. I used Acrylic tubing and really like it.
> 
> Let me know what you think so far. I hope to start a build log this weekend.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful! Great job, dude!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like this,very clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, after what you said about the bends the way I was going to do it this is what I came up with.
Click to expand...

Im glad i said whatever i said,this is a subtle,refined build.









Would you mind if i post this somewhere else?
I can PM you the link if you like.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im glad i said whatever i said,this is a subtle,refined build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you mind if i post this somewhere else?
> I can PM you the link if you like.


Yea, no problem. Let me know. There is a lot that am I still working on but thanks.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm going to be doing some very minor mods to my TJ11 once I get started on my rebuild but nothing that extensive!


----------



## Crooksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Hey, It's been a while since I have posted anything here, but thought I would post some pictures of my Tj11 that I have been working on. It's about 70% finished but it's up and running. I used Acrylic tubing and really like it.
> 
> Let me know what you think so far. I hope to start a build log this weekend.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome work but I think I would like to see more tubing or a colour! That's just me though!


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm going to be doing some very minor mods to my TJ11 once I get started on my rebuild but nothing that extensive!


Thank you, I have watched your build and it was one of the reasons I wanted the Tj11. I just did not like the way the motherboard hung there, so I wanted to see if I could change it.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Awesome work but I think I would like to see more tubing or a colour! That's just me though!


That is one of the things that I am working on, putting some light in there.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Thank you, I have watched your build and it was one of the reasons I wanted the Tj11. I just did not like the way the motherboard hung there, so I wanted to see if I could change it.


Well you did a fantastic job! I personally love the 90 degree rotation of the mobo but that's just because I like to see my blocks!


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Well you did a fantastic job! I personally love the 90 degree rotation of the mobo but that's just because I like to see my blocks!


That's the main reason I did it. I put good money into nice water blocks and can't see them. Plus I wanted to see if it could be done and have the tray still be removable, witch it is. And the hard drive cage is also rotated 90 degrees.

And thank you again.

Here is a picture of the backside.


----------



## wermad

Sweet looking build there CD69Scorp


----------



## kpforce1

Definitely awesome build CD69Scorp


----------



## kpforce1

Sorry for the crappy pics guys/gals but here is an update to my Force1 build... gotta love copper tubing







Still trying to decide if I want to redo everything and use nothing but 90* bends


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet looking build there CD69Scorp


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Definitely awesome build CD69Scorp


Thanks guys, Still have a lot planed for this build.

@kpforce1 that copper looks sweet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Sorry for the crappy pics guys/gals but here is an update to my Force1 build... gotta love copper tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still trying to decide if I want to redo everything and use nothing but 90* bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Needs em Titans









Btw, is it just me or do your sr2's pcie look orange


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Thanks guys, Still have a lot planed for this build.
> 
> @kpforce1 that copper looks sweet.


No problem







And thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs em Titans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, is it just me or do your sr2's pcie look orange


\

The Titans are in my hands







Waiting for Heatkiller Blocks to release







Gonna grab some copper hole editions









And yes in the pics the PCI-E slots look kind of orange lol. They are more red in person but not "red" :/


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Hmmm, thought it might be Solidworks. I just started using it at school and it's so much more intuitive than AutoCAD. I'll need to find myself a copy somewhere.


Love Solidworks...
Prefer Inventor, frankly, just because it is designed in a very similar way to how my brain "sees" 3D, but yeah...








Good to see someone using if for this!
I'd do it at work, but I have too much actual... um, WORK to do... usually...









Thanks - T


----------



## reath37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,normally im a member hell bent on destroying loops with 'dangerous advice' apparently........
> 
> Those that know me know different Kcue.
> 
> I still have your addy and will get the rad off to you Weds.
> 
> Choose your colour mate.


ill take the red one plz


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Thanks guys, Still have a lot planed for this build.


WOW! You "still have a lot planned" and what you have now is what I hope I can _eventually_ achieve with my own rig! That cable management is so clean and nice (of course the covers/guides help that) but still.. bravo!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> That's the main reason I did it. I put good money into nice water blocks and can't see them. Plus I wanted to see if it could be done and have the tray still be removable, witch it is. And the hard drive cage is also rotated 90 degrees.
> 
> And thank you again.
> 
> Here is a picture of the backside.


Really awesome job!


----------



## DarkHollow

Here is my new waterblock, its for my 7970. Got it used tho, I really wanted copper......

All laid out:


Quick shot with my 7970 in it:


Now as for why I wanted copper.....


Saw someone had issues with that shiny area on the top of the block (Massive galvanic corrosion, evidently it was aluminum and either had no coating or something. He had a straight copper block) I removed mine and found discoloration on the under side so I came up with this:


Modded block on the 7970:


Backplate:


The plexi replacement for the plate is great, I like it much better. It was pretty cool watching the air in the block moving around while it was bleeding. Also now have no worries about the plate and can easily keep an eye on the flaking plating. Oh and its an EN block, supposedly only ran with distilled and liquid utopia. EK is so full of it on the nickle crap.


----------



## iMica

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> Here is my new waterblock, its for my 7970. Got it used tho, I really wanted copper......
> 
> All laid out:
> 
> 
> Quick shot with my 7970 in it:
> 
> 
> Now as for why I wanted copper.....
> 
> 
> Saw someone had issues with that shiny area on the top of the block (Massive galvanic corrosion, evidently it was aluminum and either had no coating or something. He had a straight copper block) I removed mine and found discoloration on the under side so I came up with this:
> 
> 
> Modded block on the 7970:
> 
> 
> Backplate:
> 
> 
> The plexi replacement for the plate is great, I like it much better. It was pretty cool watching the air in the block moving around while it was bleeding. Also now have no worries about the plate and can easily keep an eye on the flaking plating. Oh and its an EN block, supposedly only ran with distilled and liquid utopia. EK is so full of it on the nickle crap.


Your cpu blocks copper right



Your cpu block is copper right? I have always been told not to mix metals. (Cant remember why though lol, just know its bad.)


----------



## DarkHollow

Yea the CPU block is copper but so is the base for the nickel plated block. Nickel is supposed to be close enough not to cause problems (unlike aluminum). I will be watching the VRM section for progression of the flaking and if its a problem I will have a friend help me deplate it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Your cpu blocks copper right
> 
> 
> 
> Your cpu block is copper right? I have always been told not to mix metals. (Cant remember why though lol, just know its bad.)


Just don't mix aluminum. Copper, nickel, brass, silver, & gold are good. I'm not 100% on SS so I would just limit that. Most SS is used for aesthetics iirc.


----------



## iMica

O, makes sense.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just don't mix aluminum. Copper, nickel, brass, silver, & gold are good. I'm not 100% on SS so I would just limit that. Most SS is used for aesthetics iirc.


Can't see stainless steel being a problem. As an example, the top section on Heatkiller GPU blocks is SS, and it comes into direct contact with the water.

Some anodic index numbers: 0.15 for silver, 0.30 for nickel, 0.35 for copper, 0.50-0.60 for SS, and anywhere between 0.75 and 0.95 for aluminum. The closer the numbers are, the smaller the risk of corrosion.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Can't see stainless steel being a problem. As an example, the top section on Heatkiller GPU blocks is SS, and it comes into direct contact with the water.
> 
> Some anodic index numbers: 0.15 for silver, 0.30 for nickel, 0.35 for copper, 0.50-0.60 for SS, and anywhere between 0.75 and 0.95 for aluminum. The closer the numbers are, the smaller the risk of corrosion.


Thanks for clearing that up


----------



## tanton

hey guys
I am starting very soon to put everything together. Just want to make sure that I don't screw up as this is my first time water cooling.
My parts
EX360
EX240
EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ
MCP355
EK Supremacy
EK 7970 CSQ

now before I start putting everything together, would this work or what is the best configuration?


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tanton*
> 
> hey guys
> I am starting very soon to put everything together. Just want to make sure that I don't screw up as this is my first time water cooling.
> My parts
> EX360
> EX240
> EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ
> MCP355
> EK Supremacy
> EK 7970 CSQ
> 
> now before I start putting everything together, would this work or what is the best configuration?


What about a drain line


----------



## KurruptAus

Guys im thinking of changing to just distilled water and liquid utopia from my mayhems dye. I was thinking coloured tubing but cant decide what would look good.

Any suggestions on tubing or anything else to do with my build?



Cheers all!


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Guys im thinking of changing to just distilled water and liquid utopia from my mayhems dye. I was thinking coloured tubing but cant decide what would look good.
> 
> Any suggestions on tubing or anything else to do with my build?
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers all!


Honestly, black would go really well in that loop







Imagine what it would look like with just water in the reservoir and cpu block and some nice glossy black tubing mmmmm


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Honestly, black would go really well in that loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Imagine what it would look like with just water in the reservoir and cpu block and some nice glossy black tubing mmmmm


ATM I'm tossing up between black or white tubing. My radiators will be white too so black might break it up a not. Hmmm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Your cpu blocks copper right
> 
> 
> 
> Your cpu block is copper right? I have always been told not to mix metals. (Cant remember why though lol, . know its bad.)
> 
> 
> 
> Just don't mix aluminum. Copper, nickel, brass, silver, & gold are good. I'm not 100% on SS so I would just limit that. Most SS is used for aesthetics iirc.
Click to expand...

Stainless is common in watercooling,most of the jet plates used in CPU blocks are made of Stainless Steel.


----------



## Jakusonfire

EK, Koolance, Aquacomputer and others use SS on wetted parts for their GPU blocks. Its totally fine.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> EK, Koolance, Aquacomputer and others use SS on wetted parts for their GPU blocks. Its totally fine.


Man, i just love those things! Almost as much as I do the Heatkiller blocks


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> What about a drain line


Real men don't need a drain line.









I've only been into the water cooling for barely 9-10 months and I've never used a drain line, don't need one anyways.


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Real men don't need a drain line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've only been into the water cooling for barely 9-10 months and I've never used a drain line, don't need one anyways.


Agreed, you don't need one. Just undo your lowest fitting and drain it. Drain lines look ugly!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Drains are handy but not vital,if they are done right then they are hardly noticeable.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Agreed, you don't need one. Just undo your lowest fitting and drain it. Drain lines look ugly!!


Look at you with your fancy 'undoing fittings' business... just use a knife on your lowest tubing and replumb afterwards.









(Kidding mostly - but it will work just fine. I actually put a drain in mine because it was easy to hide and it really does make it simpler and guaranteed not to drop a single drop of coolant).


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> What about a drain line
> 
> 
> 
> Real men don't need a drain line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've only been into the water cooling for barely 9-10 months and I've never used a drain line, don't need one anyways.
Click to expand...

Oh no!....I just figured out why I have a drain line...I'm overcompensating, ...Nooooooo!


----------



## MusicalPulse

Hey guys,

Does anyone have any suggestions on a good case to get that will fit some bigger rads? I don't think 240s for a NZXT Phantom will cut it for either dual 680s or 7970s.
Also, what size rads should I get for the setup I described above?

Thanks!


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Look at you with your fancy 'undoing fittings' business... just use a knife on your lowest tubing and replumb afterwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Kidding mostly - but it will work just fine. I actually put a drain in mine because it was easy to hide and it really does make it simpler and guaranteed not to drop a single drop of coolant).


If you can hide it and make it look good, do it but do it right. I'm yet to see a decent one done by an ordinary everyday modder.

Hell if I could do it I would, but nobody can come up with a way to do it with my loop


----------



## iMica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Agreed, you don't need one. Just undo your lowest fitting and drain it. Drain lines look ugly!!


If you have a bottom rad how are you going to drain it? Love my drain line, makes life easier and no mess for me <3.


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> If you have a bottom rad how are you going to drain it? Love my drain line, makes life easier and no mess for me <3.


You'll never empty a bottom rad fully with or without a drain line unless the rad has bottom plugs and u empty beneath the case.

Though common sense says just drain it all and carefully remove bottom rad then drain that too


----------



## iMica

All that wooooooooooooooooooooooooork. I have my drain line in the front of my switch since it has a drain outlet there


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Agreed, you don't need one. Just undo your lowest fitting and drain it. Drain lines look ugly!!
> 
> 
> 
> Look at you with your fancy 'undoing fittings' business..*. just use a knife on your lowest tubing* and replumb afterwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Kidding mostly - but it will work just fine. I actually put a drain in mine because it was easy to hide and it really does make it simpler and guaranteed not to drop a single drop of coolant).
Click to expand...

But that just leaves scratches on mine....


----------



## iMica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But that just leaves scratches on mine....


Use a saw.


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> All that wooooooooooooooooooooooooork. I have my drain line in the front of my switch since it has a drain outlet there


Got pics? Wouldn't mind seeing how you did it?


----------



## iMica

used a revolvable 90 degree with a tiny bit of tubing connected to a valve. Just turn the 90 degree down and connect a tube, done.

Been looking for a revolvable 90 degree with a threaded output so I can just use a male to male connector. (Though I bought a switch pedestal so going to have to think of a new way to drain lol)


----------



## Sammyboy83

I'm finished upgrading my loop. Finaly I can stop worrying about the flowrate and pressure. Compared to other kickass builds in this thread, mine is kind of negligible...


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*


I see you have the AP181 set up as pull? How is that working for you?
I'm wondering since Silverstone themselves told me not to use that fan (or the AP182 for that matter) in pull because that would apparently greatly diminish it's performance.
You do seem to have some positive pressure because of the 480 rad blowing air in so I bet it's doing just fine but I am a little curious since for my build the intake will be (quite) a bit restricted because of the front grille of my case.


----------



## Sammyboy83

The silverstone fan came with the case mount as intake/pull, so I'm not sure about how well it works. I took one fan out for placing the pumps&res there. There's a black ice sr1 560 in the buttom with bitspower 140-120 fan adapters. I believe that the pressure inside the case is positive. The temps are fin though.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Guys im thinking of changing to just distilled water and liquid utopia from my mayhems dye. I was thinking coloured tubing but cant decide what would look good.
> 
> Any suggestions on tubing or anything else to do with my build?
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers all!


I would keep it as is...


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I would keep it as is...


Really?


----------



## sanitarium

Drains are ugly? What about when they're stealth?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Really?


Honestly, the color matches your mobo/ RAM and personally I think it looks nice.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> The silverstone fan came with the case mount as intake/pull, so I'm not sure about how well it works. I took one fan out for placing the pumps&res there. There's a black ice sr1 560 in the buttom with bitspower 140-120 fan adapters. I believe that the pressure inside the case is positive. The temps are fin though.


Oh wait, the AP181 hasn't got a rad in front of it, my bad


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> Drains are ugly? What about when they're stealth?


Now that is awesome


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Honestly, the color matches your mobo/ RAM and personally I think it looks nice.


Maybe, Might experiment with it I think..


----------



## iMica

I like the blue as well. White wouldn't stick out as well because the case is white.

Since you have a acrylic block + tube res dye would always look great.


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> I like the blue as well. White wouldn't stick out as well because the case is white.
> 
> Since you have a acrylic block + tube res dye would always look great.


okay think im just gonna keep it, seeing my new pump top is acrylic as well









Time to buy some more clear tubing


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Real men don't need a drain line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've only been into the water cooling for barely 9-10 months and I've never used a drain line, don't need one anyways.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Agreed, you don't need one. Just undo your lowest fitting and drain it. Drain lines look ugly!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Drains are handy but not vital,if they are done right then they are hardly noticeable.


I'm not real sure about what "real men" might need, but smart women find drain lines, especially ones that in concert with vent points act as fill lines as well, are a real labor saver.

I designed in a drain / fill system back when I did my Switch 810 build, that I considered both attractive, (meaning unseen) and dual functional.

I'll never do another build without that convenience.

If an old lady can do it, anyone can,

Darlene

Now you see it:



Now you don't:


----------



## Tarnix

That works.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Look at you with your fancy 'undoing fittings' business... just use a knife on your lowest tubing and replumb afterwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *(Kidding mostly - but it will work just fine. I actually put a drain in mine because it was easy to hide and it really does make it simpler and guaranteed not to drop a single drop of coolant).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Exactly


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Agreed, you don't need one. Just undo your lowest fitting and drain it. Drain lines look ugly!!


i dont' see the logic in "pulling out the lowest fitting".
yeah i could pull out the tubing but my coolant would start
spilling out of the fitting i just pulled from while my tube i just
pulled is in a bucket capturing the coolant....you will have 2 areas that
start spitting coolant but only one is caputring the coolant
while the other is spilling all in your comp.
so not sure where the logic is in that one.
do people really do this? logically it doesn't seem like
it would work good.maybe i am overlooking something here but..
drain is key..this is my second WC build and
in my first one i have no drain.. pain in the ass
to drain. seem some vids where people are like
" yeah just tilt it" but it's a son of a B to get it all out.
current build has fill port as well as drain.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

hey everyone is there conferences or pc watercooling shows
where peeople can meet up with their pc (watercooled)
and talk, see other peoples builds, competitions etc...?\
just curious


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> hey everyone is there conferences or pc watercooling shows
> where peeople can meet up with their pc (watercooled)
> and talk, see other peoples builds, competitions etc...?\
> just curious


Lan parties.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Agreed, you don't need one. Just undo your lowest fitting and drain it. Drain lines look ugly!!
> 
> 
> 
> i dont' see the logic in "pulling out the lowest fitting".
> yeah i could pull out the tubing but my coolant would start
> spilling out of the fitting i just pulled from while my tube i just
> pulled is in a bucket capturing the coolant....you will have 2 areas that
> start spitting coolant but only one is caputring the coolant
> while the other is spilling all in your comp.
> so not sure where the logic is in that one.
> do people really do this? logically it doesn't seem like
> it would work good.maybe i am overlooking something here but..
> drain is key..this is my second WC build and
> in my first one i have no drain.. pain in the ass
> to drain. seem some vids where people are like
> " yeah just tilt it" but it's a son of a B to get it all out.
> current build has fill port as well as drain.
Click to expand...

Even with a drain,not all the fluid comes out,with pulling the tube off a fitting i can blow down the tube and remove most of the fluid.

Drains are just a matter of choice,some use them,some dont.

Not much more I can say on it really.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Even with a drain,not all the fluid comes out,with pulling the tube off a fitting i can blow down the tube and remove most of the fluid.
> 
> Drains are just a matter of choice,some use them,some dont.
> 
> Not much more I can say on it really.


I understand the attraction to drains as well, but I've never had a loop that would drain even half way with one located where it would be convenient. My current setup is pretty easy to drain, I just tip it only the back I/O side of the case with the plugs off on the radiators and it all comes right out the PSU mount holes. I generally just set it on the table like that doings one side then the other and its completely empty afterwards. I guess this could be a big hassle for some people, especially as the big honkin caselabs case is about 65 pound filled up.


----------



## kpforce1

Can't even see mine







I put a drop down bitspower extention with a screw cap through the bottom of my case. Can't see it on the inside either


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm not real sure about what "real men" might need, but smart women find drain lines, especially ones that in concert with vent points act as fill lines as well, are a real labor saver.
> 
> I designed in a drain / fill system back when I did my Switch 810 build, that I considered both attractive, (meaning unseen) and dual functional.
> 
> I'll never do another build without that convenience.
> 
> If an old lady can do it, anyone can,
> 
> Darlene


You're not really an old lady-no matter what you say Darlene


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm not real sure about what "real men" might need, but smart women find drain lines, especially ones that in concert with vent points act as fill lines as well, are a real labor saver.
> 
> I designed in a drain / fill system back when I did my Switch 810 build, that I considered both attractive, (meaning unseen) and dual functional.
> 
> I'll never do another build without that convenience.
> 
> If an old lady can do it, anyone can,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Now you see it:
> 
> 
> 
> Now you don't:


i must say, after all of this time i am still amazed at what you have done in the 810. especially those rad shrouds that it seems you are pretty much the only one using them.

Also, you are as old as you feel you are. (and if you feel like overclocking, modding and water cooling you never really age, only push more of yourself







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Even with a drain,not all the fluid comes out,with pulling the tube off a fitting i can blow down the tube and remove most of the fluid.
> 
> Drains are just a matter of choice,some use them,some dont.
> 
> Not much more I can say on it really.


the best drain as already said before is to use a multi port rad like the Alphacool ones in the bottom of a build (either horizontally or vertically)
But fill ports are almost a must, even if it is only an additional port on the top of your res or again another port on your rad.

btw, if a fill port isn't on the highest point in the loop is there a possibility that pressure would push out the coolant through the fill port?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm not real sure about what "real men" might need, but smart women find drain lines, especially ones that in concert with vent points act as fill lines as well, are a real labor saver.
> 
> I designed in a drain / fill system back when I did my Switch 810 build, that I considered both attractive, (meaning unseen) and dual functional.
> 
> I'll never do another build without that convenience.
> 
> If an old lady can do it, anyone can,
> 
> Darlene


>is female
>has no drain line
>doesn't have a problem and loop looks cleaner


----------



## LayerCakes

Can someone please post a photo of two GPU's in parallel? Preferably in PCI slots 1 and 5?

Thanks!


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Can someone please post a photo of two GPU's in parallel? Preferably in PCI slots 1 and 5?
> 
> Thanks!


My old set-up


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Can someone please post a photo of two GPU's in parallel? Preferably in PCI slots 1 and 5?
> 
> Thanks!


My current machine has cards in slots 1 and 5 with the EK parallel FC bridge, dunno if this is what you want to see:


----------



## LayerCakes

Sorry.. I meant with fittings and tubing between the cards rather than a connector block like that. Thanks anyway!

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> My current machine has cards in slots 1 and 5 with the EK parallel FC bridge, dunno if this is what you want to see:


That's slot 1 and four..


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Sorry.. I meant with fittings and tubing between the cards rather than a connector block like that. Thanks anyway!


Nevermind. Thought you meant case slots, since 99% of motherboards have the primary x16 lane as the first slot. Next time elaborating on your question a little more might help. Are you meaning with an x1 before the card or something so you can see the spacing?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Can someone please post a photo of two GPU's in parallel? Preferably in PCI slots 1 and 5?
> 
> Thanks!


Close enough I suppose







I used the bitspower crystal links with my heatkiller 680 blocks


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Close enough I suppose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the bitspower crystal links with my heatkiller 680 blocks


That's exactly what I was after thanks. What fittings are they? And do you think you could just cut two short lengths of tubing instead of using those expensive Bitspower links?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> That's exactly what I was after thanks. What fittings are they? And do you think you could just cut two short lengths of tubing instead of using those expensive Bitspower links?


I'm not sure about using regular tubing with the bitspower fittings. HERE are the fittings I used but they are meant for the crystal link tubes. The crystal link set is HERE and the total cost of the setup would be $28-$30.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> That's exactly what I was after thanks. What fittings are they? And do you think you could just cut two short lengths of tubing instead of using those expensive Bitspower links?


The whole point of those link fittings is they can retract some to allow for adjustments of the cards, and they are solid so they help keep the cards from sagging. Putting regular tubing won't work unless you just put barbs on the cards, as the link tubes actually slide into the fitting which has an o-ring inside.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> The whole point of those link fittings is they can retract some to allow for adjustments of the cards, and they are solid so they help keep the cards from sagging. Putting regular tubing won't work unless you just put barbs on the cards, as the link tubes actually slide into the fitting which *has an o-ring inside*.


Actually the standard link fitting has 2 o-rings. The shorty version has 1 o-ring


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Actually the standard link fitting has 2 o-rings. The shorty version has 1 o-ring


Yes, so you agree there is an o-ring inside. At least one doesn't mean there couldn't be more


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> The whole point of those link fittings is they can retract some to allow for adjustments of the cards, and they are solid so they help keep the cards from sagging. Putting regular tubing won't work unless you just put barbs on the cards, as the link tubes actually slide into the fitting which has an o-ring inside.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I'm not sure about using regular tubing with the bitspower fittings. HERE are the fittings I used but they are meant for the crystal link tubes. The crystal link set is HERE and the total cost of the setup would be $28-$30.


I'd like to use the crystal link but I just don't know if it will work on my EK FC cards as the top of the blocks take up a slot and a half.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I'd like to use the crystal link but I just don't know if it will work on my EK FC cards as the top of the blocks take up a slot and a half.


Thats ok, you can alway cut the tubes down if you need to







.

Not to mention the fitting points on your blocks will still be separated by exactly the distance between the PCI-E slots you've chosen to put the cards in


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> If you can hide it and make it look good, do it but do it right. I'm yet to see a decent one done by an ordinary everyday modder.
> 
> Hell if I could do it I would, but nobody can come up with a way to do it with my loop


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Drains are handy but not vital,if they are done right then they are hardly noticeable.


How bout THESE apples?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

No denying those alphacool rads have handy extra ports, i like the UT 240 i have here for that very reason.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Thats ok, you can alway cut the tubes down if you need to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Not to mention the fitting points on your blocks will still be separated by exactly the distance between the PCI-E slots you've chosen to put the cards in


Normally that does apply but not on these blocks as they're not symmetrical.. the ports on the back of the card come out about 6mm further.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No denying those alphacool rads have handy extra ports, i like the UT 240 i have here for that very reason.


Yup, all copper and three ports on the tank. They are far and away my favorite rads in addition to the performance.


----------



## RKTGX95

Has anyone here tried the Primochill compression reservoirs? really curious in these especially the frosted version of these and what it might look with dyed coolant.

(Also, B Neg, that avatar)


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Normally that does apply but not on these blocks as they're not symmetrical.. the ports on the back of the card come out about 6mm further.


Just out of curiosity, why don't you like the FC link?


----------



## MusicalPulse

Hey guys,

Does anyone have any suggestions on a good case to get that will fit some bigger rads? I don't think 240s for a NZXT Phantom will cut it for either dual 680s or 7970s.
Also, what size rads should I get for the setup I described above?

Thanks!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on a good case to get that will fit some bigger rads? I don't think 240s for a NZXT Phantom will cut it for either dual 680s or 7970s.
> Also, what size rads should I get for the setup I described above?
> 
> Thanks!


There are a ton of awesome big cases out there, but whats wrong with your Phantom? I had 2 360 rads and a 240 in mine, plenty for what you want to cool.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> (Also, B Neg, that avatar)


I know right?

Let me add that Scorpion's avatar is the ****zz


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on a good case to get that will fit some bigger rads? I don't think 240s for a NZXT Phantom will cut it for either dual 680s or 7970s.
> Also, what size rads should I get for the setup I described above?
> 
> Thanks!


I like the Cosmos 2, Case Labs, but if that is a bit much $ wise. The NZXT Switch 810 has good possabilities. I have one sitting around and have been deciding on weather to do anything with it.
For what you describe, A 360mm and a 240mm will work.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, why don't you like the FC link?


I think it looks terrible with the crop circles and I want an extra gap.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I think it looks terrible with the crop circles and I want an extra gap.


Ah, I got ya. I thought I would hate the circles myself but I actually don't mind them much.


----------



## Lazy Bear

I love the crop circles, you guys hate so much : (


----------



## iMica

I love my circles ;-;


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I love the crop circles, you guys hate so much : (


Your avatar changes the meaning of your comment a bit


----------



## King Lycan

The circles aren't so bad


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

I know this is mostly a picture thread and or discussion thread but I have a question

Is the XSPC X20 450 res/pump worth buying or should I rather invest in something better ?


----------



## Tonky

the last pages almost look like this is the new switch 810 thread







So here's mine, just got finished after very long time waiting for the last parts














Any suggestions are appreciated


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> There are a ton of awesome big cases out there, but whats wrong with your Phantom? I had 2 360 rads and a 240 in mine, plenty for what you want to cool.


Because people in other threads were saying that 360s won't fit into a Phantom without modding the case. Could you show me how you did yours?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I like the Cosmos 2, Case Labs, but if that is a bit much $ wise. The NZXT Switch 810 has good possabilities. I have one sitting around and have been deciding on weather to do anything with it.
> For what you describe, A 360mm and a 240mm will work.


I'll look into that, thanks!


----------



## Hokies83

Damn if i could start over id Invert my MB tray so the blocks would show.. to far along now to do that..

Next build when i do Haswell/Broadwell i guess.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Damn if i could start over id Invert my MB tray so the blocks would show.. to far along now to do that..
> 
> Next build when i do Haswell/Broadwell i guess.


i prefer the 90 degree turn trays a bit more. they show the GPU blocks, look neat and eliminate the GPU sag problem with gpu blocks.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i prefer the 90 degree turn trays a bit more. they show the GPU blocks, look neat and eliminate the GPU sag problem with gpu blocks.


Well with the Mountain Mods Asension being a fully Modular case i can put the MB tray in 4 different Locations.

I can even have it upside down hanging from the top of the case if i wanted to lol.

Ima do something like that Next go around. I really like this case it does and has room for anything u would ever need.

I came from a Cosmos 2 which other then stuffing a bunch of small thin rads into creating a rats nest like others have done is about all it could do..

I wanted to go Big with my Rads not being limited by the Cosmos 2.

So when i seen a MM Asension for sell for 230$ ship it was an Insta buy for me and i could not be more happy.

The only Meh factor i have is trying to work on the case / Battle Advanced 1/2 3/4 tubing with Bits power fittings *"UGH"* and it rolling off my table lol " i need a bigger Table " to put it on.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> That's exactly what I was after thanks. What fittings are they? And do you think you could just cut two short lengths of tubing instead of using those expensive Bitspower links?


I went the cheap way when watercooling my cards since I couldnt afford the extra cash on some SLI bridge or cristal link from Bitspower, so I ended up just using normal compression fittings and tubing on my GTX680 SLI.

Bear in mind I can't do parallel because my 19/13mm fittings are too thick and they hit each other but I am pretty sure you can do them with thinner 19/13mm fittings.









I tried both series and parallel, and honestly I couldn't notice the difference on temperatures.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I went the cheap way when watercooling my cards since I couldnt afford the extra cash on some SLI bridge or cristal link from Bitspower, so I ended up just using normal compression fittings and tubing on my GTX680 SLI.
> 
> Bear in mind I can't do parallel because my 19/13mm fittings are too thick and they hit each other but I am pretty sure you can do them with thinner 19/13mm fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried both series and parallel, and honestly I couldn't notice the difference on temperatures.


Have you got a photo of this? I'm going for parallel as I get restricted flow to my CPU and therefore bad temps.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Have you got a photo of this? I'm going for parallel as I get restricted flow to my CPU and therefore bad temps.


Here's one as it is right now:



And here's when I tried parallel few months ago on my old Silverstone Raven case:



As you can see the compressions were too thick to fit into the fitting, so I had to use without the compression on the lower tubing "bridge", and instead use zip ties, which didn't really amuse me, plus I had no benefit running it that way so it only lasted a few minutes until I drained back and went back to series cooling.


----------



## golfergolfer

This may have been asked before but between the pumps:

MCP350

and

MCP655

*Which one is more quite? This is all I care about the noise level.* I know it is subjective but has anyone used both pumps and have been able to tell the difference? Currently I own a MCP350 and was looking into the MCP655 for noise level difference but the switch would cost me $100.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> This may have been asked before but between the pumps:
> 
> MCP350
> 
> and
> 
> MCP655
> 
> *Which one is more quite? This is all I care about the noise level.* I know it is subjective but has anyone used both pumps and have been able to tell the difference? Currently I own a MCP350 and was looking into the MCP655 for noise level difference but the switch would cost me $100.


A variable speed 655 is quieter and runs cooler, on setting 3 you have to touch it to know its running. The MCP350 isn't very load in the first place, at least compared to the 355/35X.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here's one as it is right now:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's when I tried parallel few months ago on my old Silverstone Raven case:
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the compressions were too thick to fit into the fitting, so I had to use without the compression on the lower tubing "bridge", and instead use zip ties, which didn't really amuse me, plus I had no benefit running it that way so it only lasted a few minutes until I drained back and went back to series cooling.


That's exactly what I wanted thanks! What size fittings are they? I'm going yo be using 3/8" tubing. Reckon I'll be okay?


----------



## Stickeelion

I'm doing a new build and using the rig I found below as an idea/starting point from an aesthetics point of view. Would anybody know what size tubing this guy used in his rig, I like the look of it and I am unsure whether it is 1/2"OD or 5/8"OD? and do they look like nickel or black nickel fittings to you?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I'm doing a new build and using the rig I found below as an idea/starting point from an aesthetics point of view. Would anybody know what size tubing this guy used in his rig, I like the look of it and I am unsure whether it is 1/2"OD or 5/8"OD? and do they look like nickel or black nickel fittings to you?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't think its 1/2" tubing, looks too skinny for that. I would guess 7/16x5/8. As far as the fittings looks like black nickel or chrome.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> That's exactly what I wanted thanks! What size fittings are they? I'm going yo be using 3/8" tubing. Reckon I'll be okay?


Honestly I don't know what size that is since I use the metric system.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Honestly I don't know what size that is since I use the metric system.


13/10mm tubing


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 13/10mm tubing


That's really small tubing, should easily be able to do parallel cooling with tubing "bridges", I had that tubing when I first wc'd my computer and it was VERY small.


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newbie2009*
> 
> *SigRig, new case and extra radiator.*
> 
> I'm not one for looks of a case but if you think this looks bad you should see how it looked in the old case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks SpecialTech, we love u.


What voltage are you running on your 7970's to hit those clocks?


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I don't think its 1/2" tubing, looks too skinny for that. I would guess 7/16x5/8. As far as the fittings looks like black nickel or chrome.


thanks, I meant 3/8x1/2" diameter vs 3/8x5/8" (or7/16x5/8") diameter but thanks for your help +rep


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> thanks, I meant 3/8x1/2" diameter vs 3/8x5/8" (or7/16x5/8") diameter but thanks for your help +rep


No problem, its probably one of those middle sizes just hard to tell which one as the Switch is such a big case so it makes it look smaller. Maybe check the build log if there was one?


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> No problem, its probably one of those middle sizes just hard to tell which one as the Switch is such a big case so it makes it look smaller. Maybe check the build log if there was one?


no there was no log, I even reversed searched the image, nothing except a few more pictures of it and some short Vietnamese threads, no parts list or anything. that's why I asked here. It's this which compels me to do worklogs.

could it possibly be 3/8x1/2 though?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> no there was no log, I even reversed searched the image, nothing except a few more pictures of it and some short Vietnamese threads, no parts list or anything. that's why I asked here. It's this which compels me to do worklogs.
> 
> could it possibly be 3/8x1/2 though?


It could be, but being vietnamese it is probably metric sized so it would be 13/10mm, I think this is a common metric sized tubing so there is a good chance of it.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tanton*
> 
> hey guys
> I am starting very soon to put everything together. Just want to make sure that I don't screw up as this is my first time water cooling.
> My parts
> EX360
> EX240
> EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ
> MCP355
> EK Supremacy
> EK 7970 CSQ
> 
> now before I start putting everything together, would this work or what is the best configuration?


One of my set-ups.

I'd run the GPU into the radiator and then into the CPU and run the inlet and outlets off the pump top body with right angle connectors and leave the reservoir inlet for filling the system.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> A variable speed 655 is quieter and runs cooler, on setting 3 you have to touch it to know its running. The MCP350 isn't very load in the first place, at least compared to the 355/35X.


hmm ok can anyone else vouch for this? I really want a silent rig and atm i am not convinced about the new pump


----------



## khemist

Not sure but i can say 100 %, but i can not hear my swiftech mcp at max speed, i have it on a fan controller but just run it at max since it is so quiet.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> A variable speed 655 is quieter and runs cooler, on setting 3 you have to touch it to know its running. The MCP350 isn't very load in the first place, at least compared to the 355/35X.
> 
> 
> 
> hmm ok can anyone else vouch for this? I really want a silent rig and atm i am not convinced about the new pump
Click to expand...

I can, I use Alphacool VPP-655's for the silent factor. Like golfer said, you have to touch it to make sure its running sort of thing.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> This may have been asked before but between the pumps:
> 
> MCP350
> 
> and
> 
> MCP655
> 
> *Which one is more quite? This is all I care about the noise level.* I know it is subjective but has anyone used both pumps and have been able to tell the difference? Currently I own a MCP350 and was looking into the MCP655 for noise level difference but the switch would cost me $100.


Id save the 100$ the MCP 350 is not a loud pump..

Im quite sure u will not hear it over your fans.

Even my build with my MCP 35X running full tilt i can not hear it over my 18DBA fans.

Put that 100$ somewhere else









Moar rads or some very nice fans maybe.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> hmm ok can anyone else vouch for this? I really want a silent rig and atm i am not convinced about the new pump


I've used most of the pumps available, and the 655/D5 is the easiest to isolate even at high speeds. The 350 is a fairly quiet pump too, if you get it padded well. The 355 and 35X are loud. I've had as many as 3 D5's in a single loop and couldn't tell they were even running.

Don't ask, really, it was an experiment:


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I've used most of the pumps available, and the 655/D5 is the easiest to isolate even at high speeds. The 350 is a fairly quiet pump too, if you get it padded well. The 355 and 35X are loud. I've had as many as 3 D5's in a single loop and couldn't tell they were even running.
> 
> Don't ask, really, it was an experiment:


Yeah the MCP 35X has a slight high pitched Hum to it.. but i would not call it "Loud" per say you do get the Head pressure advantage over the mcp 655.. and it is a small compact pump that comes g 1/4 threaded.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Not sure but i can say 100 %, but i can not hear my swiftech mcp at max speed, i have it on a fan controller but just run it at max since it is so quiet.


What kind of Swiftech MCP lol?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I can, I use Alphacool VPP-655's for the silent factor. Like golfer said, you have to touch it to make sure its running sort of thing.


Hmm interesting +1 for the 655 then
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Id save the 100$ the MCP 350 is not a loud pump..
> 
> Im quite sure u will not hear it over your fans.
> 
> Even my build with my MCP 35X running full tilt i can not hear it over my 18DBA fans.
> 
> Put that 100$ somewhere else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moar rads or some very nice fans maybe.


Funny part is I sadly cannot fit anymore rads as it is a mITX case and my fans run at around 8 dba >.< but I will strongly consider it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I've used most of the pumps available, and the 655/D5 is the easiest to isolate even at high speeds. The 350 is a fairly quiet pump too, if you get it padded well. The 355 and 35X are loud. I've had as many as 3 D5's in a single loop and couldn't tell they were even running.
> 
> Don't ask, really, it was an experiment:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hmm interesting I would be running it with the EK res top on which ever pump I got so not too sure how padded I can make it. and as for the D5's in the loop I hope you were having a water fight with them and trying to spray people


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah the MCP 35X has a slight high pitched Hum to it.. but i would not call it "Loud" per say you do get the Head pressure advantage over the mcp 655.. and it is a small compact pump that comes g 1/4 threaded.


None of them are really terrible, but when he is going for absolute silence then I would consider it to be such. I just like reasonably quiet myself so its not such a big deal. Honestly isolating the 350 better might be the best idea, those pumps are not very loud at all.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> What kind of Swiftech MCP lol?
> P


355


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I find the MCP 35X to only be audible at full blast when leak testing/bleeding my rig. Once it's hooked up to the PWM on the motherboard and running at 40-60% it's no more audible than my GT AP-13s are at 1200RPM - which is incredibly quiet.

On the older topic - I love my UT60s for draining even though they're in the top of the case, I use the top ports for filling - and when I drain it I add my 2ft extension piece of tubing to my valve, put it in a bucket and open the valve... get a small trickle at that point. Then I just open the top port farthest from the drain in the UT60 that's on the opposite side of the case... and whooosh! Whole loop drains in about 6 seconds.


----------



## SeekerZA

I just build my 1st loop up recently with the MCP 655 V/speed. I use low noise fans throughout build besides stock fans that came with casing and even though this is my first build what i do notice is that i cant hear Any noise from pump. Though mine is mounted in bay res and speed set at 5. Changing it to speeds 3 / 4 or 5 made zero difference in noise. I really take my hat off to use who are able to hear those small noises from a pump as appose to fan noises. oh and lastly BRING ON THE PICTURES Already. Need new Wallpapers







Please leave resolution High or set it at High when taking photo's.

Thanks!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Man, I'm starting to think that this water cooling may be more trouble than its worth (kidding). Just spent the last 3 hours and gallon of distilled draining and flushing the loop in preparation for installing my Titans. Bad news is that my Durelene is shot (planned to replace anyway) and a couple of my Bitspower fittings started leaking during the process. Good news is that there is no corrosion that I can see on any of my EK nickel blocks. Its too late now to start pulling the loop apart so I'll save that for the morning. Got to replace all the tubing, install both Titan blocks, replace the BP o-rings, deep clean the whole case for dust, reconfigure the cable management for better airflow through the rad, reinstall the hardware and refill/leak test. Something tells me my main rig is going to be down for a few days...


----------



## Stickeelion

Ok I'm not sure who want's the quiet pump but if quiet is all you are after the only pump I would ever suggest is the aquacomputer aquastream XT pump.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/10/13/aquacomputer-aquastream-xt-ultra/


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> None of them are really terrible, but when he is going for absolute silence then I would consider it to be such. I just like reasonably quiet myself so its not such a big deal. Honestly isolating the 350 better might be the best idea, those pumps are not very loud at all.


How bad is that high-pitched noise? And is it possible to isolate it somehow?
I'm planning on using the mcp35x for my first build and used to think the 35x was quiet as hell, but now I'm not sure anymore. Would it be possible to isolate it and get it as quiet as the 655? (I do have a custom heatsink for mounting on the bottom so heat-wise there's no problem)

If I could I'd probably switch over to a D5, but the smallest top I could find makes it 80x80, and even with the 35x I have little room to spare.
Of course I can always throw everything around again but I doubt it would look half as clean as it's now.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> How bad is that high-pitched noise? And is it possible to isolate it somehow?
> I'm planning on using the mcp35x for my first build and used to think the 35x was quiet as hell, but now I'm not sure anymore. Would it be possible to isolate it and get it as quiet as the 655? (I do have a custom heatsink for mounting on the bottom so heat-wise there's no problem)
> 
> If I could I'd probably switch over to a D5, but the smallest top I could find makes it 80x80, and even with the 35x I have little room to spare.
> Of course I can always throw everything around again but I doubt it would look half as clean as it's now.


It is a hum of the pump running at 100%

If u turn it down via pwn control then it is silent.

Unless u have a monster loop with a ton of restrictions no need to run it 100%


----------



## Jetskyer

Thanks for your reply. I was looking at my solidworks model and after staring at it for like 30 minutes I figured there's absolutely no way I can fit a D5 in there.

The loop only has one 90* fitting, an XT45 180 and UT60 360, Raystorm and one (possibly two) heatkillers for 7970, oh, and about one meter of tubing (1/2" ID).
Very unrestrictive compared to what you see these days so I doubt the pump will ever speed up above 60%

I'm seriously glad to hear that the pump goes silent when not at 100%, thanks a lot, you saved me 3 days of non-stop planning xD


----------



## Juthos

A little update:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/013bew.jpg/


----------



## Neo Zuko

Double post


----------



## Neo Zuko

Seems the UT60 rads are popular with all those ports, I may have to get them over the SR-1 rads after all.

But then I just keep going back to Martin Liquid Labs. He says that the SR-1s are like a Swiss watch. Built better than every other rad...


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A little update:
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/013bew.jpg/


That looks absolutely amazing !


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A little update:
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/013bew.jpg/


nice one


----------



## kingchris

Just a little teaser


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A little update:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/013bew.jpg/


Looks amazing.
I think however that it would look better (imho) if you change the red fittings on the ram-cooler over to white ones. It's too much red in that area. If you set it up like on the left VRM block it would look more balanced. Those 'leftover' red fittings could be used to put some contrast in the 'white' loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> This may have been asked before but between the pumps:
> 
> MCP350
> 
> and
> 
> MCP655
> 
> *Which one is more quite? This is all I care about the noise level.* I know it is subjective but has anyone used both pumps and have been able to tell the difference? Currently I own a MCP350 and was looking into the MCP655 for noise level difference but the switch would cost me $100.


655 but its not worth spending a $100 for the difference

Martin is very right in that too,HWL produce the best finished rads you can lay your hands on.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A little update:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/013bew.jpg/


Holey smokes that is a sweet build









one think I would change are those two stray red tubes in the white loop, make it a completely white loop and a completely red loop, and as jetskyer said if you maybe paint the actual ram heatsinks or the frame around the ram block white like the CPU block it would look a little more balanced.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A little update:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/013bew.jpg/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holey smokes that is a sweet build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one think I would change are those two stray red tubes in the white loop, make it a completely white loop and a completely red loop, and as jetskyer said if you maybe paint the actual ram heatsinks or the frame around the ram block white like the CPU block it would look a little more balanced.
Click to expand...

+1 I do prefer it all the look the same but its purely an aesthetic choice.


----------



## TSXmike

any recommendations on a 3.5" multi channel fan controller?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> any recommendations on a 3.5" multi channel fan controller?


Probably best off asking in the fan forum mate.


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Probably best off asking in the fan forum mate.


we have a fan forum?

all i see is an air cooling section, unless its a sub-forum?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Probably best off asking in the fan forum mate.
> 
> 
> 
> we have a fan forum?
> 
> all i see is an air cooling section, unless its a sub-forum?
Click to expand...

Sorry,Aircooling....they used to have a fan forum in the old version of the site if im not mistaken? (so long ago.....)
Dont get me wrong,you probably will get an answer here but it will probably get buried.

lot of guys very keen on that side of thing over there,you would get more replies and a better set of answers with more depth.


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry,Aircooling....they used to have a fan forum in the old version of the site if im not mistaken? (so long ago.....)
> Dont get me wrong,you probably will get an answer here but it will probably get buried.
> 
> lot of guys very keen on that side of thing over there,you would get more replies and a better set of answers with more depth.


ill check it out. usually never venture out that way considering air cooling is a thing of the past (to me anyways.)


----------



## Neo Zuko

I'll bet there is a lack of biscuits on the fan forums. You better watercool instead!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'll bet there is a lack of biscuits on the fan forums. You better watercool instead!!


----------



## King4x4

Just finished swapping my previous Quadfire 7950s (Piced Below):



To Tri-Sli 680 4GB (Don't kill me wanted the dedicated DVI outputs for my surround setup):



Overall I am happy and I am getting decent frames.

Shortly after this pic my cpu waterblock developed a gasket leak and I had to shutdown the system completely


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> This may have been asked before but between the pumps:
> 
> MCP350
> 
> and
> 
> MCP655
> 
> *Which one is more quite? This is all I care about the noise level.* I know it is subjective but has anyone used both pumps and have been able to tell the difference? Currently I own a MCP350 and was looking into the MCP655 for noise level difference but the switch would cost me $100.


before spending 100 bucks on a new pump you could look on this little guy



Its the poweradsjust 2 USB from Aquacomputer. It makes it possible to regulate your pump performance.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> This may have been asked before but between the pumps:
> 
> MCP350
> 
> and
> 
> MCP655
> 
> *Which one is more quite? This is all I care about the noise level.* I know it is subjective but has anyone used both pumps and have been able to tell the difference? Currently I own a MCP350 and was looking into the MCP655 for noise level difference but the switch would cost me $100.


before spending 100 bucks on a new pump you could look on this little guy



Its the poweradsjust 2 USB from Aquacomputer. It makes it possible to regulate your pump performance. It's around 30$ in europe...

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Shortly after this pic my cpu waterblock developed a gasket leak and I had to shutdown the system completely


crap!


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A little update:
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/013bew.jpg/


Epic!


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Epic!


Hey this word is forbidden on this thread since a week or two


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Hey this word is forbidden on this thread since a week or two


Lmao... Banned you say?!


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Lmao... Banned you say?!


...not really but there was a discussion about a rig and about wether it is epic not and what in fact "epic" actually means. After sides of pissing comments the TS (I think it was him, if I don't remember wrong) said: let's ban this word from this thread.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> ...not really but there was a discussion about a rig and about wether it is epic not and what in fact "epic" actually means. After sides of pissing comments the TS (I think it was him, if I don't remember wrong) said: let's ban this word from this thread.


Oh really?! I need to read through that **** battle then.

BTW, here's a quick update. Still waiting on a couple of fittings and some white LED strips.



Progress!!!


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Oh really?! I need to read through that **** battle then.
> 
> BTW, here's a quick update. Still waiting on a couple of fittings and some white LED strips.
> 
> 
> 
> Progress!!!


Looks good








What is that PSU cover? I think I saw it on several rigs now.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is that PSU cover? I think I saw it on several rigs now.


It comes as part of the HAF X case.


----------



## Gingertechy

Not done yet working on cable management and I'm waiting on my Titan to get here to finish the build.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gingertechy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not done yet working on cable management and I'm waiting on my Titan to get here to finish the build.


really like the color scheme


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gingertechy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not done yet working on cable management and I'm waiting on my Titan to get here to finish the build.


How do you like that pump/waterblock combo?


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> How do you like that pump/waterblock combo?


IMO the best looking AIO water cooling unit out there. But I'd still prefer single components as have more of a choice and can swap them out seperatey.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> IMO the best looking AIO water cooling unit out there. But I'd still prefer single components as have more of a choice and can swap them out seperatey.


Apogee Drive 2 isn't an AIO. It isn't the same CPU block/pump combo as found in the H220.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Apogee Drive 2 isn't an AIO. It isn't the same CPU block/pump combo as found in the H220.


Oh ok, I'm sorry, thought it was H220...


----------



## Juthos

Thanks guys, I will give consideration to all your comments and ideas


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Oh ok, I'm sorry, thought it was H220...


The Apongee Drive II is one of the best performing blocks on the market teamed with a Full tilted MCP 35X pump.

And the term Epic depends on who is looking at it.

To me if it is not clean and cluttered up i see rats nest.. now somebody else may think that is epic..


----------



## natsu2014

My half done build. Waiting for second 670 and then I'll clean all the tubing


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> 
> Progress!!!


Pretty nice! What made you chose the Airflow serie over the Static Pressure for your rads?


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> The Apongee Drive II is one of the best performing blocks on the market teamed with a Full tilted MCP 35X pump.
> 
> And the term Epic depends on who is looking at it.
> 
> To me if it is not clean and cluttered up i see rats nest.. now somebody else may think that is epic..


That is defenitely true.


----------



## Kimir

My lil contribution to the gallery







:


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> My lil contribution to the gallery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Snip


Looks like a great build. I think white tubing would look waay better though. IMO


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Pretty nice! What made you chose the Airflow serie over the Static Pressure for your rads?


Noise level. The fans on the 360 rads are aided by two 200mm up top in a push-pull config. That's enough to cool things down IMO.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Looks like a great build. I think white tubing would look waay better though. IMO


I was hesitating between black and white tubing, I might try white in few months. Coolant and tubing is the cheapest parts anyway xD


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I was hesitating between black and white tubing, I might try white in few months. Coolant and tubing is the cheapest parts anyway xD


Yup easy and cheap to try something else.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Looks like a great build. I think white tubing would look waay better though. IMO


LoL hey where did that NH-D14 go XD


----------



## Derko1

Finally happy with my set up.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Finally happy with my set up.


nice and clean


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Beautiful color in there, Derko1. Is that UV reactive tubing you have in there producing that luminescent blue?


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prof Aronnax*
> 
> Beautiful color in there, Derko1. Is that UV reactive tubing you have in there producing that luminescent blue?


Thanks guys! It's a mix of UV tubing and also blue led fans on the top rad.


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Thank you, sir. Just checked out your build log. Great work!


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Finally happy with my set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks awesome. 800D is still such a classy looking case. Really like the transparent blue so you can see things through the tubes.


----------



## MKHunt

I'm still not completely content, but it's getting there.


----------



## k.3nny

Heey guys, Building this now







!!





Buildlog link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1340337/k-3nnys-topnotch-phantom-820-casemod/50_50#post_19483736


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Gimme some numbers k.3nny,last i heard those rads were really bad.
I liked all the scandal behind the scenes with them tho.....


----------



## 2002redeclipse

Thermaltake CLW0211 Bigwater 760 Plus Dual Bay Drive Water Cooling


----------



## Neo Zuko

Need some quick help, I'm at the hardware store to buy some nuts and bolts for my future rads. I'll do the UT60 or the SR-1 with GT AP-15 fans, what sizes and type theads do I buy?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Need some quick help, I'm at the hardware store to buy some nuts and bolts for my future rads. I'll do the UT60 or the SR-1 with GT AP-15 fans, what sizes and type theads do I buy?


M3 or M4,30mm long


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Gimme some numbers k.3nny,last i heard those rads were really bad.
> I liked all the scandal behind the scenes with them tho.....


where u heard that? RRR? Trololol


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Potentially n00b question here: what's RRR? The NYPost of watercooling?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Thanks B-neg!! All they had was ugly zinc though. I might need a specially black painted set. I really like the nuts that came with my CaseLabs SM8 case, I would like more of those or perhaps some of those copper plated Alphacool nutes/bolts. Something copper, red or black . I really like the CaseLabs ZipTies too. I'm looking for all the little things for my watercooling journey. Tools are tough to pick out for example.


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prof Aronnax*
> 
> Potentially n00b question here: what's RRR? The NYPost of watercooling?


http://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CD8QFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.realredraider.com%2Fvbulletin%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D43804&ei=RfY8UYq4GYfA7Ab464CgDw&usg=AFQjCNF-FKG7rtBlCsg8Rt9rrn2OW5ybtQ&sig2=-gnXe-gORKFdnbWFxGjv_A&bvm=bv.43287494,d.d2k

Some ranting blablabla


----------



## Pidoma

Well I know this doesn't count as much, but hey it is a start.



Won the h80 on here from a freebie contest.







Case isn't that great for cable management and I don't have a modular PSU.

Just working with what I got. One day I will get a custom loop system and until then this will have to do.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Need some quick help, I'm at the hardware store to buy some nuts and bolts for my future rads. I'll do the UT60 or the SR-1 with GT AP-15 fans, what sizes and type theads do I buy?


alphacool rads use the m3, just so you know.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Gimme some numbers k.3nny,last i heard those rads were really bad.
> I liked all the scandal behind the scenes with them tho.....
> 
> 
> 
> where u heard that? RRR? Trololol
Click to expand...

Actually Bundymania told us.

http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=184488&postcount=86

Still trolololol?


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Quote:


> Some ranting blablabla


Thanks- wasn't aware of that site.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prof Aronnax*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Some ranting blablabla
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks- wasn't aware of that site.
Click to expand...

If you get past the banter it has some very knowledgeable people there,they were the only site to get proper 3rd party testing of the EK plating fiasco and to ignore them because of Reds outlook/attitude would be a waste.
You just need a thicker skin than usual.


----------



## Tarnix

@Pidoma Nice. I have a H80 too, and it's a good start. Especially for free.

Update: I managed to break my AM3 socket bracket by over-tightening my H80...







So I (temporarily) stole the one from my M4a87TD/USB3 board (which was my backup rig with a phenom)...
Good news: It works. Good news#2: Buying XSPC Raystorm 240 kit and 2 Gentle Typhoon AP-29. Bad news: My wallet is bleeding in advance.

Picture, just because my rig changed a bit since the last time... It looks far from clean, post-operation mess :3
Waiting on fully modular PSU, ETA in a few days. Then raystorm kit next month, and I should have something that looks great.


Question: EX240 or RX240 (RX is thicker, EX is thinner. I plan to do push, push/pull won't fit in the top.)? I plan to add a 240 in the front later.


----------



## subsven

New to this forum here, but figured I'd join the club.









This is my first new build in about 5 years. Put it together back in November and decided about two weeks ago it was time to watercool. Took me about a week to get it together and I'm still ironing out a few kinks, but so far I'm very satisfied with how it looks.


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you get past the banter it has some very knowledgeable people there,they were the only site to get proper 3rd party testing of the EK plating fiasco and to ignore them because of Reds outlook/attitude would be a waste.
> You just need a thicker skin than usual.


Thank you for the pointers. I've been an OCN lurker for years, but I've only recently started planning a build and I need all the intel I can get. So many impressive builders to learn from.


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually Bundymania told us.
> 
> http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=184488&postcount=86
> 
> Still trolololol?


THAT IS NOT!!! the admiral btw


----------



## Derko1

Here's another shot of my PC on the side. I need to clean up the PCI power cables, I don't like how they look hanging there.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Here's another shot of my PC on the side. I need to clean up the PCI power cables, I don't like how they look hanging there.


Nice







, especially that XSPC Chrome block.

i must admit, the Swiftech blocks are really starting to grow on me. (for my setup in which copper accents from other blocks might ruin the theme)
if only the new style XSPC block for the 7970 would have cooled actively the VRMs...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually Bundymania told us.
> 
> http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=184488&postcount=86
> 
> Still trolololol?
> 
> 
> 
> THAT IS NOT!!! the admiral btw
Click to expand...

You know what,you are right!

They look so similar...I wonder why?

Bwahahahahahahahahaaaa!










Same design tho with the stacked disk arrangement so im not expecting a leap forward.

Get some numbers up then k.3nny? I need to know now how good/bad they actually are.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> New to this forum here, but figured I'd join the club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first new build in about 5 years. Put it together back in November and decided about two weeks ago it was time to watercool. Took me about a week to get it together and I'm still ironing out a few kinks, but so far I'm very satisfied with how it looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice setup!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well I know this doesn't count as much, but hey it is a start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Won the h80 on here from a freebie contest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case isn't that great for cable management and I don't have a modular PSU.
> 
> Just working with what I got. One day I will get a custom loop system and until then this will have to do.


What a case is that? Yea, dude, Nice rig and good start! =o)


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> What a case is that? Yea, dude, Nice rig and good start! =o)


Antec LanBoy Air (red)


----------



## Tarnix

Noone can answer my question?








I have a feeling I just get ignored every time I post here


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Noone can answer my question?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a feeling I just get ignored every time I post here


Sorry Tarnix,the RX would be my choice if you dont want to run high fans speeds


----------



## Tarnix

What I want to avoid is full speed all the time. I don't mind temporarily raising them while gaming/priming/folding. My main problem is that the Define R4 won't allow all-inside push-pull with something as thick as a H80 radiator. Also, I've been told that GT (AP-29) are best with medium density rads. if I can get away with only push or pull (aka fans only on a single side, but more total space - I plan adding another rad later), I'd prefer that.


----------



## subsven

@GAMERIG, thx









Here's a better shot of the side that I forgot to add.



And another just because...


----------



## Tarnix

That huge radiator makes me want to hide... like while facing a giant.







Looks great!


----------



## subsven

I would say thicker rad is generally better, provided you can fit it. It means both more surface area for heat exchange and higher flow through the rad channels. Hard to go wrong there.


----------



## Tarnix

okay, thanks for the input. i'll start looking for RX240 size and use some measuring tape








Edit: Dual EX240 it is...







fits nowhere. Too thick.


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I'm still not completely content, but it's getting there.


Y U nO Happy? Look amazing and clean









I have been creeping this thread since it started and I have seen that next to no one uses the new(ish) XSPC AX rads. Is there performance not worth the extra cash over the EX series?


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I'm still not completely content, but it's getting there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Y U nO Happy? Look amazing and clean
Click to expand...

^This.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> I have been creeping this thread since it started and I have seen that next to no one uses the new(ish) XSPC AX rads. Is there performance not worth the extra cash over the EX series?


Did not know about them until now, *reads about them*

Okay... On paper they sound good, not sure if I like the covered corners, though.

Edit2: Finished cable management. Should take a better pic.


----------



## TheOx

Yeah I could see why people wouldn't like them. I do however have a 650d, having squared edges, I think one of these squarer rads would look nice inside the case, keep the sharp look of it.

I couldn't justify it unless its a decent improvement over the EX at higher RPMs.


----------



## ginger_nuts

The AX series would have to be great preforming rads, considering the AX120 cost the same as the EX360.

I think it is more a cosmetic thing than anything.


----------



## reath37

up date finely finished the rebuild
think it came out ok still need to do
some things side panels i think i mite
try to rewire it as well ext are to long
impossible to hide maybe a switch on the
cold cathodes well here it is








i think i just like black now plain black
more picks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Is that an Enzotech Luna in there?
What's it perform like?
I always thought they were a nice looking block....


----------



## suburban78




----------



## Asustweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> up date finely finished the rebuild
> think it came out ok still need to do
> some things side panels i think i mite
> try to rewire it as well ext are to long
> impossible to hide maybe a switch on the
> cold cathodes well here it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think i just like black now plain black
> more picks


Holy tubes and wires batman!!! Nice man!!! I know what a chore remembering what goes where can be. lol
Kinda like this


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> Holy tubes and wires batman!!! Nice man!!! I know what a chore remembering what goes where can be. lol
> Kinda like this


is there a motherboard behind all those tubes?


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well with the Mountain Mods Asension being a fully Modular case i can put the MB tray in 4 different Locations.
> 
> I can even have it upside down hanging from the top of the case if i wanted to lol.
> 
> Ima do something like that Next go around. I really like this case it does and has room for anything u would ever need.
> 
> I came from a Cosmos 2 which other then stuffing a bunch of small thin rads into creating a rats nest like others have done is about all it could do..
> 
> I wanted to go Big with my Rads not being limited by the Cosmos 2.
> 
> So when i seen a MM Asension for sell for 230$ ship it was an Insta buy for me and i could not be more happy.
> 
> The only Meh factor i have is trying to work on the case / Battle Advanced 1/2 3/4 tubing with Bits power fittings *"UGH"* and it rolling off my table lol " i need a bigger Table " to put it on.


If you like the Mountain Mods Ascension case a lot, you may want to check out my build, link in signature below. I did a custom powder coat too.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> If you like the Mountain Mods Ascension case a lot, you may want to check out my build, link in signature below. I did a custom powder coat too.


Nice!

Mine is the Mirror Black powder coat.

Id like to do some custom Air brush work to it tho!


----------



## phillyd

hmm... Black Ice GTS 360, Black Ice GTX 360, NexXxos ST30 360, or NexXxos ST60 360 for push/pull with Corsair Air Static Pressure fans at low speeds??


----------



## D33G33

OMG i'm so close to starting I can taste it! Just waiting on my fusion reservoir to arrive from the US.

Here's the goodies so far! I may have gotten carried away but it's my first watercooled rig, I'm allowed to


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> OMG i'm so close to starting I can taste it! Just waiting on my fusion reservoir to arrive from the US.
> 
> Here's the goodies so far! I may have gotten carried away but it's my first watercooled rig, I'm allowed to


:O what's the case?


----------



## Mikecdm

Some function over form







, looks terrible, i know . Used some random fittings that I had and some recently acquired quick disconnects, which I have fallen in love with.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> :O what's the case?


Fractal-Design R4, full matte black, and will have a full plexi side panel instead of the windows option.

Gear is a 3770k, z77 sabertooth, dominator platinum ram, 2x samsung SSD's in raid 0, GTX 670 (though..... this will be a titan soon I think) Rig has been running about a month dry just to make sure there are no DOA's.

I haven't built a rig since 08. I. Am. So. EXCITE!


----------



## phillyd

Can't wait to see it! Make a build log!


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikecdm*
> 
> Some function over form
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , looks terrible, i know . Used some random fittings that I had and some recently acquired quick disconnects, which I have fallen in love with.


I know what you mean, those Koolance Quick Disconnects are simply priceless. If I ever tear this thing down again for any reason I'm putting like 5 more sets in my rig, every device is getting 2!


----------



## Mikecdm

I've been using water for years and had never used any until now. I immediately wanted more of them.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> I know what you mean, those Koolance Quick Disconnects are simply priceless. If I ever tear this thing down again for any reason I'm putting like 5 more sets in my rig, every device is getting 2!


with a drain line its just as easy switch out parts, id love to have the quick disconnects but there kinda ugly and hard to hide them at least for my build..


----------



## subsven

I don't think you're using the same disconnects... The Koolance ones are super easy to use and don't leak any fluid. I.e. in his build all he has to do is pop those QCs on the GPU blocks and pull the cards out. No draining, no flushing, no refilling and no loop bleeding.


----------



## Asustweaker

Here's some updated pics
pump top painted


Front radiator painted and installed


hard drives relocated due to the radiator taking all dive spaces




Raystorm retention bracket plate painted


Pump config before paint and 180 degree flip








Block in it's original state


Next:

1: order some white sleeved pci-e and sata power cables,

2:Get some extra long white sata cables.

3:Order and paint a 2X140mm rad. to replace to #2 top stealth 240mm

4: figure out my final lighting solution

5:cut the side panel and place a new larger window in.

6:figure out how to fabricate the defused light plexi plate for the power supply and possibly the mobo.


----------



## Buehlar

Here's mine...ROG-red....the build log is in my sig.


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Here's mine...ROG-red....the build log is in my sig


nice build man


----------



## Buehlar

Thanks,
I'm still working on the window.


----------



## _REAPER_

Going to go for the waterfall in the PC.... 115 days and a wake up.. DMN Afghanistan is getting old


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another shot of my PC on the side. I need to clean up the PCI power cables, I don't like how they look hanging there. :
> 
> 
> thumb:


Dude, Did I miss your pictures? I like to see your more pictures, pleasee!?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reath37*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> up date finely finished the rebuild
> think it came out ok still need to do
> some things side panels i think i mite
> try to rewire it as well ext are to long
> impossible to hide maybe a switch on the
> cold cathodes well here it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think i just like black now plain black
> more picks


Amazingly RIG! & BEST CABLE MANAGEMENT of YEAR!


----------



## sectionsone

Currently build for bitfenix prodigy black after leaked test




need your comment ^^


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I'm still not completely content, but it's getting there.


So... I have to know - what is bugging you about this? Wanting individual sleeved cables? (Yours look very tidy as they are BTW) Or tubing adjustment? (Though it looks like it should flow great!) Or...







I don't know what the outside looks like but from the inside it looks really great.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Currently build for bitfenix prodigy black after leaked test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> need your comment ^^


Nice...would be cool with clear window on both sides


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> Here's some updated pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> pump top painted
> 
> 
> Front radiator painted and installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hard drives relocated due to the radiator taking all dive spaces
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Raystorm retention bracket plate painted
> 
> 
> Pump config before paint and 180 degree flip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Block in it's original state
> 
> 
> Next:
> 
> 1: order some white sleeved pci-e and sata power cables,
> 
> 2:Get some extra long white sata cables.
> 
> 3:Order and paint a 2X140mm rad. to replace to #2 top stealth 240mm
> 
> 4: figure out my final lighting solution
> 
> 5:cut the side panel and place a new larger window in.
> 
> 6:figure out how to fabricate the defused light plexi plate for the power supply and possibly the mobo.


That PSU... it's freaking enormous!!
Nice work on the paint jobs though


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That PSU... it's freaking enormous!!


well, it is known that Big cases have Big PSU's









(had to)


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> hmm... Black Ice GTS 360, Black Ice GTX 360, NexXxos ST30 360, or NexXxos ST60 360 for push/pull with Corsair Air Static Pressure fans at low speeds??


anyone have an answer?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikecdm*
> 
> Some function over form
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , looks terrible, i know . Used some random fittings that I had and some recently acquired quick disconnects, which I have fallen in love with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Phase.

Whats not to like?


----------



## driftingforlife

I want to do the same for my phase/LN2 set-up so I can swap GPU's easily. Going to get some of the new QDC's when I can afford to.


----------



## _REAPER_

@ BNEG I am going to put 2 D5 pumps in my loop because the RAD I have has a lot of restriction, do you think that is too much pressure?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> @ BNEG I am going to put 2 D5 pumps in my loop because the RAD I have has a lot of restriction, do you think that is too much pressure?


No,it will be fine.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> anyone have an answer?


I'm stuck between the UT60 and the SR-1 myself.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,it will be fine.


THanks.


----------



## Fieel

Here it is, my FC-Titan just arrived


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Here it is, my FC-Titan just arrived






Nice I installed mine yesterday. Def. the best looking GPU block from Ek recent releases. Dont forget to flush it out first! I forgot and had to re take the loop down, nice white foam residue around the pump.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Nice I installed mine yesterday. Def. the best looking GPU block from Ek recent releases. Dont forget to flush it out first! I forgot and had to re take the loop down, nice white foam residue around the pump.


Woah, thank you for the advice, wouldn't know if you didn't tell me


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Nice, congtrats Fieel.









You couldn't even wait until you got into the house to open and take pics of your new block!









Nice pics too.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quick question about fans:

I kitted my entire rig out in SP120 Quiet's and I have one as my exhaust fan. There's nothing for the exhaust fan to push through so would an AF120 be better? Or one of my spare Akasa Vipers?

Or could I even put the blade from an Akasa Viper on an SP120? I think they use the same motors?


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, my FC-Titan just arrived


Love the block!


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Currently build for bitfenix prodigy black after leaked test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> need your comment ^^


Cute








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asustweaker*
> 
> Here's some updated pics
> pump top painted
> 
> 
> Front radiator painted and installed
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: rest
> 
> 
> 
> hard drives relocated due to the radiator taking all dive spaces
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Raystorm retention bracket plate painted
> 
> 
> Pump config before paint and 180 degree flip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Block in it's original state
> 
> 
> 
> Next:
> 
> 1: order some white sleeved pci-e and sata power cables,
> 
> 2:Get some extra long white sata cables.
> 
> 3:Order and paint a 2X140mm rad. to replace to #2 top stealth 240mm
> 
> 4: figure out my final lighting solution
> 
> 5:cut the side panel and place a new larger window in.
> 
> 6:figure out how to fabricate the defused light plexi plate for the power supply and possibly the mobo.


Sexy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Fractal-Design R4, full matte black, and will have a full plexi side panel instead of the windows option.
> 
> Gear is a 3770k, z77 sabertooth, dominator platinum ram, 2x samsung SSD's in raid 0, GTX 670 (though..... this will be a titan soon I think) Rig has been running about a month dry just to make sure there are no DOA's.
> 
> I haven't built a rig since 08. I. Am. So. EXCITE!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Can't wait to see it! Make a build log!


^This. Also, I've been looking for a R4 build log since I have the same case and I'm totally clueless about shoving WC gear in that case :O


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Here's mine...ROG-red....the build log is in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Like the build ..good job..
what colour is that paint you used?
thinking of building a micro build for a media
sling setup w/red coloured theme.
And love that colour







.. Pearl red? or?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'm stuck between the UT60 and the SR-1 myself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> anyone have an answer?


I've only had the 120mm SR1, and I currently have two 480mm UT60's. The SR1 had a slightly better paint finish but the UT's have more options with the six ports and come with two full sets of screws, I think 30mm and a slightly longer one. I'm very happy with them and they bleed super easy. Heavy is my only complaint. The UT60 will out-cool the SR1 at low RPM as well, but the SR1 takes over at medium/high speed. I don't think a few extra watts of dissipation is worth the huge jump in price though, I could only get a 360mm SR1 for the price of my 480 UT60.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'm stuck between the UT60 and the SR-1 myself.


Depends mostly on whether you're looking for total headroom or silent performance. I love my UT60s and I picked them because they are close enough to the SR-1's at low speed (though under 1K RPM they are not quite as good) - but if you need better cooling during benches, etc... the UT60 really pulls away at ~1200-1400 RPM - from pretty much anything. However, that being said I usually run my two at ~700 RPM and have ~7-8C deltas with 2 7970's and a 3570K @ 4.7GHz. At that speed everything is silent, but at 1200RPM I drop to around a 5C delta during hard gaming and 3C browsing and watching videos.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Nice, congtrats Fieel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You couldn't even wait until you got into the house to open and take pics of your new block!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice pics too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Love the block!


Thank you guys! Trust me, it looks awesome, way better than in photo!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Here it is, my FC-Titan just arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The snack that smiles back!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Depends mostly on whether you're looking for total headroom or silent performance. I love my UT60s and I picked them because they are close enough to the SR-1's at low speed (though under 1K RPM they are not quite as good) - but if you need better cooling during benches, etc... the UT60 really pulls away at ~1200-1400 RPM - from pretty much anything. However, that being said I usually run my two at ~700 RPM and have ~7-8C deltas with 2 7970's and a 3570K @ 4.7GHz. At that speed everything is silent, but at 1200RPM I drop to around a 5C delta during hard gaming and 3C browsing and watching videos.


Good to hear, my next purchase will be an Alphacool NexXxos UT60 420mm with 3 or 6 Gelid 1200rpm 140mm fans.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Has anyone heard of any other Titan blocks that are out or
coming out very soon other than the EK ones..


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Has anyone heard of any other Titan blocks that are out or
> coming out very soon other than the EK ones..


Acquacomputer has one: http://www.techpowerup.com/180806/Aqua-Computer-Intros-Kryographics-Full-Coverage-Water-Block-for-GeForce-GTX-Titan.html

Koolance announced his block: http://koolance.com/vid-nxttn-video-card-vga-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-water-block

Dunno about more blocks, imho, the EK one is awesome compared to the acquacomputer one


----------



## Entropia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Good to hear, my next purchase will be an Alphacool NexXxos UT60 420mm with 3 or 6 Gelid 1200rpm 140mm fans.


I've got 2 of the Gelid 140mm on a 280 rad. They have work well (cooling wise) at full speed but are bloody loud and scale back to very low speeds 600rpm at 40% power. I usually run them at about 850rpm for regular use and they're reasonably quiet at that speed although cooling performance isn't too great.

For a 140mm fan it seemed to be one of the better options (at least from what I had available in Australia).


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quick question about fans:
> 
> I kitted my entire rig out in SP120 Quiet's and I have one as my exhaust fan. There's nothing for the exhaust fan to push through so would an AF120 be better? Or one of my spare Akasa Vipers?
> 
> Or could I even put the blade from an Akasa Viper on an SP120? I think they use the same motors?


You're probably fine with what you have and won't notice a difference.
Vipers btw can't be taken apart.


----------



## kcuestag

Quick question to those that are familiar with 420mm rads, how does the Phobya G-Changer V.2 420mm behave against an Alphacool Nexxxos UT60 420mm? Both are 60mm thick, I was going for the Alphachool at first, but it's out of stock until May.









I plan on using either rads with 3x 140mm Gelid 1200rpm fans (Decent static pressure) and would get another 3 later down the road.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Here it is, my FC-Titan just arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yay, that looks exactly like my Titan blocks!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question to those that are familiar with 420mm rads, how does the Phobya G-Changer V.2 420mm behave against an Alphacool Nexxxos UT60 420mm? Both are 60mm thick, I was going for the Alphachool at first, but it's out of stock until May.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on using either rads with 3x 140mm Gelid 1200rpm fans (Decent static pressure) and would get another 3 later down the road.


Both radiators are identical minus the badge AFAIK.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Here it is, my FC-Titan just arrived


Oh my god!
its begging for mayhem pastel!
I can feel it!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm over pastel myself. These Titan blocks are getting XT-1 red this go around...


----------



## Tarnix

Happy to see that EKwb decided to ditch the CSQ stuff for this block.
Also, about other blocks, EVGA has an Hydrocopper titan.


----------



## lowfat

The thing about using pastel is that they 'stain' nickel. It can be polished off but it requires you to open the block up. Reinstalling the o-ring on a full cover block isn't a lot of fun generally.


----------



## Tonky

Hey guys, I have one question: Is there somebody using an EK FC GTX 680 waterblock including the backplate and also don't getting one screw in?

Here's a pic:



The screw coming with the backplate is 2-3mm too short and I find that very strange...
I don't think that I have done something wrong as the block is performing really well, everything is sitting straight and tight, so I can't for the hack find out where the mistake is...

Edit:
Also at that point where the missing screw is meant to be there is a gap between the waterblock and the pcb.
So anyway I could not tighten that screw that much because it would just bend down the backplate then. Maybe I have a wrong produced block and there should not be gap at that place at all?

Edit 2:
Ok, reffering to pictures on EK's website I found out that there should be a standoff on the block at that place but it's not there








May I should RMA that block...


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question to those that are familiar with 420mm rads, how does the Phobya G-Changer V.2 420mm behave against an Alphacool Nexxxos UT60 420mm? Both are 60mm thick, I was going for the Alphachool at first, but it's out of stock until May.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on using either rads with 3x 140mm Gelid 1200rpm fans (Decent static pressure) and would get another 3 later down the road.


Again not based on the 420mm rads but rather the 360s - in Martin's testing he found that although the restriction is identical between the UT60 and the G-Changer V2 - the thermal performance of the G-Changer is actually much more in line with SR-1, XT45, XSPC RX series (so roughtly 3-5% behind that of the UT60 - at higher fan speeds at least). This is due to the brass channels rather than the copper ones on the UT60.

The restriction is similarly non-existent (at least in comparison to almost ever other rad on the market) so you can always just add more of them!









If you look at Martin's review of the G-Changer V2 you can find all the thermal and flow statistics as well as performance levels at different fan speeds. That's where I did most of my research which led me to the UT60 as my rad of choice - not the most attractive (IMO) but definitely some great bang-for-the-buck with the alphacool rads.


----------



## morencyam

I was able to get the loop up and running in my new scratch case over the weekend. Still have a few things to work on before it is 100% complete but here's how it looks right now. I will be adding another 480mm radiator on the bottom at some point when I get the funds together. Also thinking of adding a 120mm on the rear sorely for aesthetics


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The thing about using pastel is that they 'stain' nickel. It can be polished off but it requires you to open the block up. Reinstalling the o-ring on a full cover block isn't a lot of fun generally.


I just disassembled my loop after 9 months of running with pastel grape red and there is no staining whatsoever on my EK nickel blocks...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I just disassembled my loop after 9 months of running with pastel grape red and there is no staining whatsoever on my EK nickel blocks...


Hmm. Every nickel block I have has been heavily stained when using nanofluid coolant like the pastels. However I am sure my mixtures likely have way more dye and way more nanofluid than the stock mixtures.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Oh my god!
> its begging for mayhem pastel!
> I can feel it!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm over pastel myself. These Titan blocks are getting XT-1 red this go around...


Same here, i'll be using Mayhems clear blue UV


----------



## wermad

I'm running mayhems emerald green and on the DD gpu blocks there was no staining but the DD M6 cpu block did have some.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Happy to see that EKwb decided to ditch the CSQ stuff for this block.
> Also, about other blocks, EVGA has an Hydrocopper titan.


Almost, if not every major water cooling manufacturer will be releasing a Titan block. Stren will be doing a review/comparison of all of them in the coming couple weeks. Make sure to check out his site


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The thing about using pastel is that they 'stain' nickel. It can be polished off but it requires you to open the block up. Reinstalling the o-ring on a full cover block isn't a lot of fun generally.


Any o-ring which isnt round is a pain,a smear of silicone grease can help,you probably know that already.


----------



## chase11

Can I join????


----------



## Michalius

I had Pastel with UV Yellow/Green and straight Green Dye running through my system for 4 months. Not even the slightest hint of staining. Different pastels can stain, such as anything with Pink due to the dye used. Otherwise, there are a ton of variables to take into account.

Just because it exists on one setup, or even multiple, doesn't mean that you can create a rule around it. Anecdotes are anecdotes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question to those that are familiar with 420mm rads, how does the Phobya G-Changer V.2 420mm behave against an Alphacool Nexxxos UT60 420mm? Both are 60mm thick, I was going for the Alphachool at first, but it's out of stock until May.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on using either rads with 3x 140mm Gelid 1200rpm fans (Decent static pressure) and would get another 3 later down the road.


They're the same radiator. Alphacool and Phobya are both owned by aquatuning, and as such, use a lot of the same stuff between the two.


----------



## Crooksy

I don't think I'll post my rig. It has quite a bit of CSQ. I'll be shunned from the community!


----------



## Michalius

Some pics I took for my build log:


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I don't think I'll post my rig. It has quite a bit of CSQ. I'll be shunned from the community!


Although if I'll be hated for that: I like CSQ!









Ok, it does not fit every build but in mine and many others I like it. I would find it nice if EK would give us the choice. They also should have more backplate designs, for example pure aluminium with and without circles and maybe some higloss polished ones









Ah and frosted res's would be very nice aswell


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> I don't think I'll post my rig. It has quite a bit of CSQ. I'll be shunned from the community!


If done right, those CSQ blocks look really good!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## SortOfGrim

What is the shortest and smallest reservoir?


----------



## RatDog

Probably swiftech micro-res v2.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I had Pastel with UV Yellow/Green and straight Green Dye running through my system for 4 months. Not even the slightest hint of staining. Different pastels can stain, such as anything with Pink due to the dye used. Otherwise, there are a ton of variables to take into account.
> 
> .


It isn't the dye that stains. It is the nano particle coolant which is the base for all Mayhems pastels. But maybe Mayhems isn't concentrated enough to do that. This is what my blocks looked like after two months of use.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> What is the shortest and smallest reservoir?


T-line reservoir, ?


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> What is the shortest and smallest reservoir?


standalone or pumpmounted?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> What is the shortest and smallest reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> standalone or pumpmounted?
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter. The answer is
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> What is the shortest and smallest reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> T-line reservoir
Click to expand...

Unless of course the user is scared to drill holes for a fill-port.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It isn't the dye that stains. It is the nano particle coolant which is the base for all Mayhems pastels. But maybe Mayhems isn't concentrated enough to do that. This is what my blocks looked like after two months of use.


I didn't disassemble my blocks to verify they were clean but to the naked eye they look quite good. The plexi did cloud ever so slightly but nothing noticable. I'd even go so far as to say I could change colors with no issues at this point but I'm sticking with red so it really doesn't matter to me...


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It isn't the dye that stains. It is the nano particle coolant which is the base for all Mayhems pastels. But maybe Mayhems isn't concentrated enough to do that. This is what my blocks looked like after two months of use.


Yeah, I was using Pastel Mint Green with additional UV Yellow/Green and Blue dye to get the exact shade.

I have had no such stains. After a flush when I pulled them out they looked pretty much brand new.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Unless of course the user is scared to drill holes for a fill-port.


It's small yes, but it's not really short if you want it function as a res at least a little


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> Probably swiftech micro-res v2.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> T-line reservoir, ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> standalone or pumpmounted?


Standalone
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> It doesn't matter. The answer is
> Unless of course the user is scared to drill holes for a fill-port.


*thx all*. It's going to be mounted on or just above a MCP35x that sits above a rad and below a gpu.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Dude, Did I miss your pictures? I like to see your more pictures, pleasee!?


Ha! Thanks... there was a few more like two pages before your post.

Well here's a few more shots I took today.


----------



## K4IKEN

Nice shots Derko!









Looking forward to seeing some expanded H220 loops in here.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Standalone
> *thx all*. It's going to be mounted on or just above a MCP35x that sits above a rad and below a gpu.


there is a very small one for MCP 35X out there, shall find it. just a moment^^


----------



## Tonky

this one http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p9726_Alphacool-Laing-DDC-Ausgleichsbeh-lter-und-Aufsatz-Combo.html

I think it does not look so nice but it's small


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Ha! Thanks... there was a few more like two pages before your post.
> 
> Well here's a few more shots I took today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Jealous of clocks on your 7970's, nice build.

Cheers


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


+10 points for the HDD blocks








(overkill level: starts to overpass the bounds of OCN)


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> +10 points for the HDD blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (overkill level: starts to overpass the bounds of OCN)
Click to expand...

Because he mounted his HDDs in the bottom? lol no


----------



## PatrickCrowely

GTX Titan Blocks & Back Plates... Sorry for finger prints....


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> +10 points for the HDD blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (overkill level: starts to overpass the bounds of OCN)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Because he mounted his HDDs in the bottom? lol no
Click to expand...

I think he be referring to the fact his HDDs are water cooled


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Because he mounted his HDDs in the bottom? lol no


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I think he be referring to the fact his HDDs are water cooled


yeah, thanks for clarifying.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> GTX Titan Blocks & Back Plates... Sorry for finger prints....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


the moment that you realize that the blocks only cost a fraction from the GPU price (~15%)


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> +10 points for the HDD blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (overkill level: starts to overpass the bounds of OCN)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Because he mounted his HDDs in the bottom? lol no
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think he be referring to the fact his HDDs are water cooled
Click to expand...

O yes









Inviato dal mio GT-I9100 con Tapatalk 2


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> You're probably fine with what you have and won't notice a difference.
> Vipers btw can't be taken apart.


Considering I have taken all my vipers apart to respray them, I find this difficult to believe


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Like the build ..good job..
> what colour is that paint you used?
> thinking of building a micro build for a media
> sling setup w/red coloured theme.
> And love that colour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Pearl red? or?


Duplicolor Metal Specks--Retro Red part #MS300 at Advanced Auto.
Duplicolor Perfect Match--Universal Black Met part # BUN0090


With a coat of
Duplicolor Clear Effex part# EFX100


Some of my pics make it look a bit pinkish


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

One down, one to go!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> One down, one to go!


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Currently build for bitfenix prodigy black after leaked test
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


need your comment ^^

Comment you say? I'd love to have it







Look's wonderful! Is it chromed pipe or did you paint it?


----------



## hatrix216

Does anyone know if the reference waterblocks for an HD 7850 would fit on the XFX double d 7850 ? I can't seem to figure out if they are a reference design or not.

My first GPU in my crossfire setup gets pretty hot when under stress and goes up to 80-82 C, requiring me to turn the fan up to 70% or so. I'm not really digging how loud the fan is when it's that high. The second card stays 10 degrees cooler and doesn't seem to be a problem, usually staying 1000 RPMs lower.

Or it doesn't necessarily have to be a water cooling solution for my card... Anything that would keep temps lower will do. I ordered some new case fans im hopes of making my case ambient a bit lower, as I know my airflow isn't the best.

****ty thing is if I did go a water cooling route, I would need to do a custom water loop, because my CPU has a corsair H100i on it.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Considering I have taken all my vipers apart to respray them, I find this difficult to believe


Guide? I tried to find out how to take mine apart, and all I could find was that you destroy them if you take them apart...


----------



## _REAPER_

Does anyone know if there is another block out for the EVGA Classified 680 besides the Hydro Copper


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Does anyone know if there is another block out for the EVGA Classified 680 besides the Hydro Copper


Well, EK doesn't make one, so chances are that nobody else does either. I'll have a look around though.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> One down, one to go!


Amazing, can't wait to mount mine! Please, let us know how does it looks with the liquid, pics pics pics pics pics pics pics pics


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I think he be referring to the fact his HDDs are water cooled


I agree. This is the first time I've actually seen HDD waterblocks in a build







OCN is definitely the place to do it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


You sir are a fine example of what OCN is all about








I'm curious, what case is this?


----------



## derickwm

My guess is it's a Liquid err Little Devil 8.


----------



## driftingforlife

Little Devil PC-V8.

http://www.ldcooling.com/shop/atx-hptx/47-ld-pc-v8-atx-hptx-black.html


----------



## InsideJob

Ahh right on thanks guys, never knew about them before


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Little Devil PC-V8.
> 
> http://www.ldcooling.com/shop/atx-hptx/47-ld-pc-v8-atx-hptx-black.html


Awwww yeah!


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Ahh right on thanks guys, never knew about them before


He started out on OCN I believe. Fun fact.









Still have the Phobya case sitting in my room. I have no use for it, as I love my current case, it's too big to be used as a secondary case and I don't have the funds to make a huge watercooled build in it. What shall I do with it?

I could live in it....


----------



## driftingforlife

Lol derick, did you see my log name?


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Does anyone know if the reference waterblocks for an HD 7850 would fit on the XFX double d 7850 ? I can't seem to figure out if they are a reference design or not.
> 
> My first GPU in my crossfire setup gets pretty hot when under stress and goes up to 80-82 C, requiring me to turn the fan up to 70% or so. I'm not really digging how loud the fan is when it's that high. The second card stays 10 degrees cooler and doesn't seem to be a problem, usually staying 1000 RPMs lower.
> 
> Or it doesn't necessarily have to be a water cooling solution for my card... Anything that would keep temps lower will do. I ordered some new case fans im hopes of making my case ambient a bit lower, as I know my airflow isn't the best.
> 
> ****ty thing is if I did go a water cooling route, I would need to do a custom water loop, because my CPU has a corsair H100i on it.


XFX seems to be the most difficult, PITA company for people who want to water cool their cards, as they apparently only employ ADD-addled PCB designers and withhold their medication









However, FULL COVERAGE BLOCKS ARE NOT THE ONLY WAY TO GO!!!!









You could get 2 Swiftech or EK (or whatever other brand) UNIVERSAL GPU blocks, and SLI(/Crossfire) Bridge for probably about the same price as you would pay for a single full-coverage block. IMO, if I were in your shoes, that's what I'd do!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> He started out on OCN I believe. Fun fact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have the Phobya case sitting in my room. I have no use for it, as I love my current case, it's too big to be used as a secondary case and I don't have the funds to make a huge watercooled build in it. What shall I do with it?
> 
> I could live in it....


Fun fact indeed







Wish I wasn't so new around here









As for that case, rent it out as a bachelor apartment for secondary income to save for the build to go in it







(if only)


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Lol derick, did you see my log name?


Hehe


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Does anyone know if the reference waterblocks for an HD 7850 would fit on the XFX double d 7850 ? I can't seem to figure out if they are a reference design or not.
> 
> My first GPU in my crossfire setup gets pretty hot when under stress and goes up to 80-82 C, requiring me to turn the fan up to 70% or so. I'm not really digging how loud the fan is when it's that high. The second card stays 10 degrees cooler and doesn't seem to be a problem, usually staying 1000 RPMs lower.
> 
> Or it doesn't necessarily have to be a water cooling solution for my card... Anything that would keep temps lower will do. I ordered some new case fans im hopes of making my case ambient a bit lower, as I know my airflow isn't the best.
> 
> ****ty thing is if I did go a water cooling route, I would need to do a custom water loop, because my CPU has a corsair H100i on it.
> 
> 
> 
> XFX seems to be the most difficult, PITA company for people who want to water cool their cards, as they apparently only employ ADD-addled PCB designers and withhold their medication
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, FULL COVERAGE BLOCKS ARE NOT THE ONLY WAY TO GO!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could get 2 Swiftech or EK (or whatever other brand) UNIVERSAL GPU blocks, and SLI(/Crossfire) Bridge for probably about the same price as you would pay for a single full-coverage block. IMO, if I were in your shoes, that's what I'd do!
Click to expand...

The die only blocks actually have better GPU temps than the FC blocks,I know i have used them a lot in the past for great effect.
You will need to do something about the VRM section


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Fun fact indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I wasn't so new around here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for that case, rent it out as a bachelor apartment for secondary income to save for the build to go in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (if only)












If only indeed. I'd love to put an SR-2 in this thing and make it my main rig..


----------



## alohaaaxton

So this is my semi - finished build, I ordered a FrozenQ UV Red 150mm Water cooling reservoir, Im having trouble figuring out where to mount it, any ideas? Im planning on making my side pannel 3/4 plexi glass see through and drilling out my bottom right SSD/HDD cage. I have a 240rad at the top EK waterblock/EK fittings and feserone UV red tubing at 3/8 and a MCP655 pump .. Any help from the club would be appreciated, I'd be happy with modding the case to fit just give me ideas. I want the reservoir to show on the left 3 quarters of the case if possible. Thanks everyone!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you are a copper loop builder,you may find this useful..


----------



## Thrasher1016

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you are a copper loop builder,you may find this useful..






Oh...









Not that I'm that much of a WC nerd...
But I AM a Materials & Processes nerd!!!
NICE.









Thank - T


----------



## axipher

Added a second RAD to my loop finally, wasn't the easiest thing to get installed nicely though. Needed quite a few 90's and a extra small reservoir:


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Added a second RAD to my loop finally, wasn't the easiest thing to get installed nicely though. Needed quite a few 90's and a extra small reservoir:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


GUMBY! Looking good Axi!


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Considering I have taken all my vipers apart to respray them, I find this difficult to believe


What paint are you using to paint them, cause Krylon is hard to come by as far as i know in the UK.

Secondly(open question), not really on topic, but what are the next cards that are scheduled for release after the Titans,and when are they being released?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Added a second RAD to my loop finally, wasn't the easiest thing to get installed nicely though. Needed quite a few 90's and a extra small reservoir:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GUMBY! Looking good Axi!
Click to expand...

Thanks 

And I'm glad someone recognized his awesomeness, he's an original too


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The die only blocks actually have better GPU temps than the FC blocks,I know i have used them a lot in the past for great effect.
> You will need to do something about the VRM section


Good to know, thanks guys Would it be worth my time to just run a loop for the GPUs and keep my H100i? **** I need more case space


----------



## Fieel

Almost ready to add the GPU to the loop:
*XSPC 360 Radiator (60mm thick)*











*Koolance mounting bracket*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The die only blocks actually have better GPU temps than the FC blocks,I know i have used them a lot in the past for great effect.
> You will need to do something about the VRM section
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know, thanks guys Would it be worth my time to just run a loop for the GPUs and keep my H100i? **** I need more case space
Click to expand...

Sell the H100 and buy a block? Then you can spend the rest on Gentlemans Literature or ice cream.









If you are going to invest in a waterloop then you may as well get the CPU in it too.


----------



## xenomorph113

Hey all, ive been WC'ing for over a year now, started out with a modest H60, then grew to a multiple H-series loop, then eventually into this:









(later this spring i plan on making the computer move from the lanboy air into the table, desk mod!)


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> What paint are you using to paint them, cause Krylon is hard to come by as far as i know in the UK.?


I have no idea.. It was just a normal black spray paint. I can provide a picture of the finished fan if you'd like?


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sell the H100 and buy a block? Then you can spend the rest on Gentlemans Literature or ice cream.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are going to invest in a waterloop then you may as well get the CPU in it too.


Haha I could. My girlfriend just bought me the H100i for christmas though, so I'm weary on doing that. I'm sure anyone would understand why lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> However, FULL COVERAGE BLOCKS ARE NOT THE ONLY WAY TO GO!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could get 2 Swiftech or EK (or whatever other brand) UNIVERSAL GPU blocks, and SLI(/Crossfire) Bridge for probably about the same price as you would pay for a single full-coverage block. IMO, if I were in your shoes, that's what I'd do!


Got any links for what you would recommend ? I'm clueless as to what would be best.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> Hey all, ive been WC'ing for over a year now, started out with a modest H60, then grew to a multiple H-series loop, then eventually into this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (later this spring i plan on making the computer move from the lanboy air into the table, desk mod!)


Make a build log when you make that transition. I love those desk builds.


----------



## goldry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> Hey all, ive been WC'ing for over a year now, started out with a modest H60, then grew to a


Nice fans


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Xenomorph, I agree w/ goldry that those are some sweet fans. Is that a custom paint job? Or did you buy those as is?

Also... What is the cable sleeving that goes into your cards? That looks a very nice sort of coppery hue in the pic.


----------



## 40.oz to freedom

Just finished putting in my White advanced lrt and my new fittings, and white sleeved cables.


----------



## Dhalgren65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Haha I could. My girlfriend just bought me the H100i for christmas though, so I'm weary on doing that. I'm sure anyone would understand why lol.
> Got any links for what you would recommend ? I'm clueless as to what would be best.


try:http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx
and
http://www.swiftech.com/gpu_heatsinks.aspx
They work very well on my 7950's!


----------



## Plutonium10

I just installed 3x Corsair SP120 fans on my rad and replaced all the case fans with AF140s. The SPs are definitely louder than the AP-15s that they are replacing, but to my ear, they have a much nicer tone. I don't find they particularly distracting at 1800rpm, although they do make a fair bit of a racket at full speed.


----------



## Kimir

I found the SP120 loud even limited at 1600rpm (with resistance) when I had them on my H100i, now I have the Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P and I fine them way quieter, they are pimp too.









Also the cable (short, sleeved, with 2 different length of extension) and package is better. But they doesn't come with different color ring.









ps: nice bike you've got there.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Jealous of clocks on your 7970's, nice build.
> 
> Cheers


Thanks man. Yours aren't that far off. I'm right on the edge with mine... 2mhz more on either one makes them crash horribly.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I found the SP120 loud even limited at 1600rpm (with resistance) when I had them on my H100i, now I have the Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P and I fine them way quieter, they are pimp too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the cable (short, sleeved, with 2 different length of extension) and package is better. But they doesn't come with different color ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps: nice bike you've got there.


Nice. what RPM are those?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Nice. what RPM are those?


Here is the datasheet of the eLoop serie. I have the B12-P, PWM one rated at 2000rpm, going at ~1850 under Prime95.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Dang torx head screws on my second Titan! Anybody know a good place to get a T6 screwdriver? Home Depot have something that small?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Here is the datasheet of the eLoop serie. I have the B12-P, PWM one rated at 2000rpm, going at ~1850 under Prime95.


so they are decent @ 1800 rpm?
(interested in getting *these* which are essentially the same as yours just a different color and sticker)


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Dang torx head screws on my second Titan! Anybody know a good place to get a T6 screwdriver? Home Depot have something that small?


If they don't an electronics store might. I got a 40 piece mini screw driver and bit set from MicroCenter for like $8 that has torx


----------



## FTWRoguE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Dang torx head screws on my second Titan! Anybody know a good place to get a T6 screwdriver? Home Depot have something that small?


Home Depot does indeed sell a T6 bit, comes in a set of different sizes.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I found the SP120 loud even limited at 1600rpm (with resistance) when I had them on my H100i, now I have the Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P and I fine them way quieter, they are pimp too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the cable (short, sleeved, with 2 different length of extension) and package is better. But they doesn't come with different color ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps: nice bike you've got there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


GIVE US MORE PICTURES.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yep, Home Depot had a kit with 18 bits including T5-T8 with a handy little carrying case. Figured now I'm set for almost any computing scenario!


----------



## mikemia

Long time lurker here. first time to post my rig... Special thanks to my big brother aka _REAPER_ without him i wont have these kind of computer.. thanx alot bro...


----------



## willy888

is awesome these water cooling!! nice work guys.









and just now leave my custom watercooler

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/20130311192602.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/20130311192608.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/20130311192622.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/20130311192642.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/203/20130311192654.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/687/20130311192706.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

is all


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemia*
> 
> Long time lurker here. first time to post my rig... Special thanks to my big brother aka _REAPER_ without him i wont have these kind of computer.. thanx alot bro...


Kuya, no issues. I am glad your enjoying your setup. 113 more days and I am home on RR Afghanistan is getting old looking forward to redoing my pc again lol.


----------



## h2on0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Kuya, no issues. I am glad your enjoying your setup. 113 more days and I am home on RR Afghanistan is getting old looking forward to redoing my pc again lol.


THANK YOU!!!!


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalgren65*
> 
> try:http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx
> and
> http://www.swiftech.com/gpu_heatsinks.aspx
> They work very well on my 7950's!


Thanks







I don't however see a good heatsink for a 7800 series. I don't think the 7900 heatsink would fit on my GPU.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Just took a closer look at my EK 7970 blocks after removing them from my loop and I don't see any corrosion of the nickel whatsoever. There is some minor staining from the Mayhems pastel red premix but that is all. EK's nickel plating issues appear to be a thing of the past at least in my experience.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> What is the shortest and smallest reservoir?


EK 100mm Basic


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> so they are decent @ 1800 rpm?
> (interested in getting *these* which are essentially the same as yours just a different color and sticker)


They are from the same manufacture (I believe) with different color scheme. Noiseblocker one are lil more expensive but you get to choose different speed rating and pwm.
Performance wise they are great, noise wise they are just what I was expecting.
Got mine from here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> GIVE US MORE PICTURES.


There is nothing fancy to show off here, but okay.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ha! Thanks... there was a few more like two pages before your post.
> 
> Well here's a few more shots I took today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Million thanks for those pictures.. a Well-built Rig!


----------



## samoth777

hi guys,

Has anybody here ever used or heard of this pump?

http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=21160689

I have never seen this before and can't find any information on it.


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> Has anybody here ever used or heard of this pump?
> 
> http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=21160689
> 
> I have never seen this before and can't find any information on it.


looks like a variation of a laing d5 with 4 screws instead of a threaded collar.... if you get it let us know if that's the case.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> Has anybody here ever used or heard of this pump?
> 
> http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=21160689
> 
> I have never seen this before and can't find any information on it.


Looks like a D5 in a weird custom top,the 12v-24v and 1200lph flow would lead me to this conclusion.....


----------



## _REAPER_

I said to hell with it and got a new CPU to go with my new MOBO lol.. End of deployment fever.. lol


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks like a D5 in a weird custom top,the 12v-24v and 1200lph flow would lead me to this conclusion.....


i dunno, if it's a D5 it should be a bit more pricey i think. D5s over here cost 5,000 Pesos for the cheapest (non vario). This thing on the other hand is P3,200 which is a big decrease. You guys could be right though as I have never used a D5 before nor even seen one.

I might get this pump in the future. I will post info here when I do.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> i dunno, if it's a D5 it should be a bit more pricey i think. D5s over here cost 5,000 Pesos for the cheapest (non vario). This thing on the other hand is P3,200 which is a big decrease. You guys could be right though as I have never used a D5 before nor even seen one.
> 
> I might get this pump in the future. I will post info here when I do.


Pare, Musta? PM SENT


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Added a second RAD to my loop finally, wasn't the easiest thing to get installed nicely though. Needed quite a few 90's and a extra small reservoir:


I see you have the 7970 with the artic cooling accelro...i was thinking about getting one for my 7970 as i have a sapphire 7970 (ref design) that i have overclocked, temps sitting around 75-79c under load...are they noisey?? and do they really do well at dropping temps? ie what are you getting off yours??


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Added a second RAD to my loop finally, wasn't the easiest thing to get installed nicely though. Needed quite a few 90's and a extra small reservoir:


I see you have the 7970 with the artic cooling accelro...i was thinking about getting one for my 7970 as i have a sapphire 7970 (ref design) that i have overclocked, temps sitting around 75-79c under load...are they noisey?? and do they really do well at dropping temps? ie what are you getting off yours??


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Good to know, thanks guys Would it be worth my time to just run a loop for the GPUs and keep my H100i? **** I need more case space


Thats what i have. Well an H80 with a standalone loop using swiftech sli bridge and 2 universal blocks.










Universal block on just one card


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*


Sweet! That's the micro res I'm looking for!
How does it fair with bubbles / getting rid of them?
Can any port be used for inlet / outlet?


----------



## Hokies83

How does this back plate look in a build called "Monsta's Inc" ?


----------



## lowfat

I would never use the Monster logo. It looks rather tacky IMO. Clean backplates w/ no logos FTW.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> How does this back plate look in a build called "Monsta's Inc" ?


I like it but without the LOGO on the side MOSTA is nice though


----------



## ocdream

agreed


----------



## Hokies83

I guess that picture is not a good one to show with the colors being off..

Back plate will be black letters / logo in red.


----------



## _REAPER_

honestly I would keep the monsta on it but take off the logo, I know everyone has their own taste though.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

I wanna join........


----------



## LayerCakes

I present to you, The Corsakasa Viper Quiet Edition


----------



## dbthump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> I wanna join........


I too want to join, but I have nothing yet. I subbed to this thread to see all the "cool" going around, and you all has it. But now I'm fiending for it and considering going down this dark path to never ending awesome.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbthump*
> 
> I too want to join, but I have nothing yet. I subbed to this thread to see all the "cool" going around, and you all has it. But now I'm fiending for it and considering going down this dark path to never ending awesome.


You're doing the right thing. Research will help you a lot. It's not hard @ all. The hardest thing for me was planning my loop. I was terrified of taking the video cards apart, but that was a breeze, just don't miss any screws...


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Sweet! That's the micro res I'm looking for!
> How does it fair with bubbles / getting rid of them?
> Can any port be used for inlet / outlet?


Gets them out really well. As you can see I run two of them and I seem to do ok with both. The CPU res uses the two ports on top of each other. The GPU res uses the the bottom as the outlet and the top of the two on the front as the inlet. I suppose you could switch them around, but I'd prefer to always keep the inlet above the outlet.


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> How does this back plate look in a build called "Monsta's Inc" ?


As a guy who drinks Monster every morning, that would look much better without their logo's. I'm personally sick and tired of seeing their corporate logo stuck on the back of every lifted pick up truck and wanna be teenage sports car driver in every city I've been to.

Unless you're getting corporate sponsorship dollars it just makes your car look pathetic and poser'ish people.

I love the font and would love to see that moved to the left side of the back plate and then maybe an actual monster looking creatures head coming in from the right side of the backplate. Don't have access to anything but paint at work, much less the time, but hopefully you understand what I mean.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> How does this back plate look in a build called "Monsta's Inc" ?


Nope, stop. STOP IT. I'm tired of that monster logo everywhere. Every motorcycle i see, every damn truck, every damn sponsor. Please, not here too.


----------



## mironccr345

^^^^


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prof Aronnax*
> 
> Xenomorph, I agree w/ goldry that those are some sweet fans. Is that a custom paint job? Or did you buy those as is?
> 
> Also... What is the cable sleeving that goes into your cards? That looks a very nice sort of coppery hue in the pic.


the fans are coolermaster mach .800, the paint job was a custom combination of bronze, gold and copper paint. many many coats over a couple days :S

as for the ATX/PCIE they are from www.dazmode.com they are "darkside single braid - predator" cables

http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/6-pin_pci-e_darkside_single_braid_cable_-_predator/

http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/4_4_eps_darkside_single_braid_cable_-_predator/

http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/24-pin_atx_darkside_single_braid_cable_-_predator/

i chose the colour because my planned desk mod is going to be steampunk themed.


----------



## xenomorph113

edit: nvm


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> I see you have the 7970 with the artic cooling accelro...i was thinking about getting one for my 7970 as i have a sapphire 7970 (ref design) that i have overclocked, temps sitting around 75-79c under load...are they noisey?? and do they really do well at dropping temps? ie what are you getting off yours??


I have had an accelero on my old GTX570. It performend pretty well and was really silent for an aircooler. The only downside on that ones is that they exhaust the hot air into the case...


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> As a guy who drinks Monster every morning, that would look much better without their logo's. I'm personally sick and tired of seeing their corporate logo stuck on the back of every lifted pick up truck and wanna be teenage sports car driver in every city I've been to.
> 
> Unless you're getting corporate sponsorship dollars it just makes your car look pathetic and poser'ish people.
> 
> I love the font and would love to see that moved to the left side of the back plate and then maybe an actual monster looking creatures head coming in from the right side of the backplate. Don't have access to anything but paint at work, much less the time, but hopefully you understand what I mean.


I like that idea asked to have it changed to that.


----------



## lowfat

Better pic of my temporary bench setup.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Nice chair lowfat,is it comfy?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nice chair lowfat,is it comfy?


Not really.









But it is decent for posture.I want to replace it w/ an Embody, But justifying $1000 on a chair once was hard. Spending north of that again is even harder since there really isn't anything wrong w/ my current Aeron.


----------



## Jinto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it is decent for posture.I want to replace it w/ an Embody, But justifying $1000 on a chair once was hard. Spending north of that again is even harder since there really isn't anything wrong w/ my current Aeron.


I was gonna say, aren't Aeron chairs around $800 USD?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it is decent for posture.I want to replace it w/ an Embody, But justifying $1000 on a chair once was hard. Spending north of that again is even harder since there really isn't anything wrong w/ my current Aeron.


And of course you could spend the $1000 on a GTX 690 or Titan


----------



## Tarnix

New PSU... Next time i'll have a full-blown water loop, hopefully.


----------



## mikupoiss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Nope, stop. STOP IT. I'm tired of that monster logo everywhere. Every motorcycle i see, every damn truck, every damn sponsor. Please, not here too.


Yea, man! Try RedBull instead. Monster is just wrong...









Anyway. This thread is a goldmine for homework before getting a lc system.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Nope, stop. STOP IT. I'm tired of that monster logo everywhere. Every motorcycle i see, every damn truck, every damn sponsor. Please, not here too.


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> the fans are coolermaster mach .800, the paint job was a custom combination of bronze, gold and copper paint. many many coats over a couple days :S
> 
> as for the ATX/PCIE they are from www.dazmode.com they are "darkside single braid - predator" cables
> 
> i chose the colour because my planned desk mod is going to be steampunk themed.


Thank you, sir! Your labors on the fans most certainly show. It definitely captures the steampunk color palette. I am contemplating a historical-themed mod myself, which is why I was drawn to your cables.... I think you chose well. Any chance you have a build log?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> I wanna join........


Very nice


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


oh god...


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> How does this back plate look in a build called "Monsta's Inc" ?


i noticed alot of neg. comments regarding your backplate. not a bad idea
adding a back plate but if your going with "Monsta Inc"
ever think of using a "Cookie (Hokie) Monsta" type theme.lol
kinda silly but just a thought. lots of other ideas out there other than
the already overkilled "Monsta energy drink" logo.

combine that text with this pic.

i just quickly thought and got these pics on 2 minutes so prob. not the greatest
of ideas but still - alot of ideas out there.


----------



## pc-illiterate

you mean 'the ****** monsta' ?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I present to you, The Corsakasa Viper Quiet Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Somehow it never even crossed my mind to attempt something like that... genius.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I present to you, The Corsakasa Viper Quiet Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow it never even crossed my mind to attempt something like that... genius.
Click to expand...

^This.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering if there is much of a performance difference between running rads in series and parallel?

They would be identical rads and identical fans.

Also if I change from my current RS 240 and EX240 rads to 2xEX360 or EX420's (but with slower fans) would I suffer much if any performance loss?


----------



## jokrik

Wanna share abit of my newly born baby








more pics on my build log




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> What is the shortest and smallest reservoir?


Switech Micro Res 2 or Bitspower S-Multi 40, which sports a couple of colours. Other choices out there, but these are common and, judging by this, a good choice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you mean 'the ****** monsta' ?












Edit: Above build, geeeezz!


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Somehow it never even crossed my mind to attempt something like that... genius.


Thanks







I've got a fantastic 1200 RPM airflow fan that's almost silent with the great aesthetics of SP120's. It made sense as they both have the same motor I guess. And I didn't have to rip apart my rig to change the fan!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering if there is much of a performance difference between running rads in series and parallel?
> 
> They would be identical rads and identical fans.
> 
> Also if I change from my current RS 240 and EX240 rads to 2xEX360 or EX420's (but with slower fans) would I suffer much if any performance loss?


I would say no. Placing your rads optimally so then can dissipate the heat more effectively will do a better job imho. You can analogize this to running blocks in series or parallel (I didn't find significant difference in temps).


----------



## ginger_nuts

Thanks wermad


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Wanna share abit of my newly born baby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics on my build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Absolutely stunning!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Thanks wermad


It really won't improve your temps but depending on your loop setup it may be practical to run it in parallel. Would be nice looking too









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Wanna share abit of my newly born baby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics on my build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very lovely


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering if there is much of a performance difference between running rads in series and parallel?
> 
> They would be identical rads and identical fans.
> 
> Also if I change from my current RS 240 and EX240 rads to 2xEX360 or EX420's (but with slower fans) would I suffer much if any performance loss?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would say no. Placing your rads optimally so then can dissipate the heat more effectively will do a better job imho. You can analogize this to running blocks in series or parallel (I didn't find significant difference in temps).


I'm in the same frame of mind as "wermad" but considering your going to nearly tripple the rad area the gain might be pretty good









"ginger_nuts" what case are you putting 2 x EX360 or EX 420's into??


----------



## wermad

I'm running three monsta 480s and there was no difference running two. I'm sure I can run one with my new kepler gpu setup. Its just the overkill factor


----------



## Dendai

This is my first water cooled pc.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm running three monsta 480s and there was no difference running two. I'm sure I can run one with my new kepler gpu setup. Its just the overkill factor


Same here,I can turn any one of the 480 RXs fan banks off and nothing happens on my rig.
The summer is when the extra rad pays off.,we don't use AC in the UK.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Same here,I can turn any one of the 480 RXs fan banks off and nothing happens on my rig.
> The summer is when the extra rad pays off.,we don't use AC in the UK.












Ildes are in the mid to low 20s. Freaks you out coming from Fermi








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dendai*
> 
> This is my first water cooled pc.


nice build







. Lots of leds, looks good


----------



## MCCSolutions

Ok B-neg I got my cards in and mounted... Kinda rigged because I havent receved my custom Dwood brackets yet







. Ignore all the tubes and cableing I will rerout and tidy them after benching tonite. Will post in like 12hours, have any special requests as far as which benchmark you want me to run?






Setup in a nutshell:
Modded Corsair H100i as a waterblock for a FX-8350 with 3/8" ID hoses

2x Corsair H70s mounted on a XFX HD 6990 with 1/4"ID Hoses to 3/8" joints

Modded Corsair H100i Mounted on a ASUS Direct CII HD6970 with 3/8" ID hoses

Whole system ran by a Industrial 12v-24v Pump that has been modified to run at 5v quietly

Each item in a full parraleled loop with one XSPC 360mm RAD each(3/8" ID hoses to g1/4 3/8"OD Compression fittings)

Running a mix of EK Blood red 50/50 mix with Iron Side coolant

Bracardi 151 Bottle as RES with three Returns and one Out


----------



## CoolGuy90

I see a lot of you guys have the XSPC Acrylic Res/Pump combos. Is vibration a concern? What about pump noise? I plan to get the Swiftech D5 variable speed pump.

Thanks!


----------



## wermad

that's a lot of tube


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> that's a lot of tube


Must... resist... childish jokes...

But seriously, its like red spaghetti right now. I like the color though.

@MCC, how do you plan to route all of it?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> I'm in the same frame of mind as "wermad" but considering your going to nearly tripple the rad area the gain might be pretty good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "ginger_nuts" what case are you putting 2 x EX360 or EX 420's into??


Considering building a case from scratch, which is currently in a design stage. But the trouble is size. If I go ahead with it, it will be bigger then a TJ-11 by lots.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm running three monsta 480s and there was no difference running two. I'm sure I can run one with my new kepler gpu setup. Its just the overkill factor


This is main reason for the new rads, to keep it neat and overkill, and just becoz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Same here,I can turn any one of the 480 RXs fan banks off and nothing happens on my rig.
> The summer is when the extra rad pays off.,we don't use AC in the UK.


Same here, summers are a killer, even with AC on.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> that's a lot of tube


YES..... YES IT IS!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Must... resist... childish jokes...
> 
> But seriously, its like red spaghetti right now. I like the color though.
> 
> @MCC, how do you plan to route all of it?


Not sure yet but I do have the general placement of all the fittings and the tube lengths about right(a little extra just in case). But I plan to route them evenly and parrallel with the lines of the case and the compoinet it is connected to. Im defenately gonna un criscross the tubeing it drives me nuts just looking at it lol. Hopefully it turns out looking awesome!


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> YES..... YES IT IS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure yet but I do have the general placement of all the fittings and the tube lengths about right(a little extra just in case). But I plan to route them evenly and parrallel with the lines of the case and the compoinet it is connected to. Im defenately gonna un criscross the tubeing it drives me nuts just looking at it lol. Hopefully it turns out looking awesome!


Well if you've got a plan you should be good. It will turn out looking good if you can wrangle all of that into place nicely, the colors match well. Have you thought about a backplate for the 6970 to match the 6990? I know Asus made some like that, they were pretty nice.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ok B-neg I got my cards in and mounted... Kinda rigged because I havent receved my custom Dwood brackets yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ignore all the tubes and cableing I will rerout and tidy them after benching tonite. Will post in like 12hours, have any special requests as far as which benchmark you want me to run?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setup in a nutshell:
> Modded Corsair H100i as a waterblock for a FX-8350 with 3/8" ID hoses
> 
> 2x Corsair H70s mounted on a XFX HD 6990 with 1/4"ID Hoses to 3/8" joints
> 
> Modded Corsair H100i Mounted on a ASUS Direct CII HD6970 with 3/8" ID hoses
> 
> Whole system ran by a Industrial 12v-24v Pump that has been modified to run at 5v quietly
> 
> Each item in a full parraleled loop with one XSPC 360mm RAD each(3/8" ID hoses to g1/4 3/8"OD Compression fittings)
> 
> Running a mix of EK Blood red 50/50 mix with Iron Side coolant
> 
> Bracardi 151 Bottle as RES with three Returns and one Out


You need some full cover blocks STAT!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Well if you've got a plan you should be good. It will turn out looking good if you can wrangle all of that into place nicely, the colors match well. Have you thought about a backplate for the 6970 to match the 6990? I know Asus made some like that, they were pretty nice.


Yea I actuallualy planed to have dwood make some for me but for some reason his shipping takes forever so I might make my own and sandwich the metal with acrilic with LED lighting. Defenately have some show off space on the back of the 6990, I will come up with somthing.... Thanks by the way, I was careful to match the colors, I actually went out of my way to order the differant sizes of tubing from the same vendor to gurantee an exact match! I got 25' of 3/8"ID and 1/4"ID!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You need some full cover blocks STAT!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I actually planned to use these corsair parts it was kinda the point, but we will se once I test them thouroughly but looking good so far, as far as temps lol


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I actually planned to use these corsair parts it was kinda the point, but we will se once I test them thouroughly but looking good so far, as far as temps lol


It's definitely unique! Hopefully you can tidy up the tubing a little bit









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

SLI Titan build delayed again because I can't count PCIE slots correctly apparently and ordered the wrong length of Crytal Link tubes...











Now I get to wait til tomorrow for the correct set to arrive, after which I'm sure there will be a new stupid problem that will cause yet another delay...


----------



## wermad

crystal link?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol, yeah.


----------



## Red1776

Just adding a bit more detail...
I have a lot of sleeving and whatnot to do, but here it is for now despite a power outage/surge toasting the motherboard and two of my 7970's yesterday. Oddly enough we just had a transformer replaced from a ice storm last week. Anyway a trip to MicroCenter and the better part of an all nighter and she is up and running again.














The 2.2 kW Holodeck VII

[email protected]/
Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)/
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz/
4 X HD 7970 Quadfire /
1x Corsiar AX1200W/
2x FSP Group X5 1000W/
1XNexXxos XT45 360mm/
2 x NexXxos XT45 240mm/
1xNexXxos XT45 120mm Rads/
2X VPP-655 Pumps/
1X Phobya DC-12-400 Pump
Koolance 370 CPU Block/
4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks/
Rad Fans Coolermaster Excaliber/
Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings/
Primochill Tubing/
Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2/
Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
/BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir/
Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Just adding a bit more detail...
> I have a lot of sleeving and whatnot to do, but here it is for now despite a power outage/surge toasting the motherboard and two of my 7970's yesterday. Oddly enough we just had a transformer replaced from a ice storm last week. Anyway a trip to MicroCenter and the better part of an all nighter and she is up and running again.
> 
> 
> 
> The 2.2 kW Holodeck VII
> 
> [email protected]/
> Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)/
> 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz/
> 4 X HD 7970 Quadfire /
> 1x Corsiar AX1200W/
> 2x FSP Group X5 1000W/
> 1XNexXxos XT45 360mm/
> 2 x NexXxos XT45 240mm/
> 1xNexXxos XT45 120mm Rads/
> 2X VPP-655 Pumps/
> 1X Phobya DC-12-400 Pump
> Koolance 370 CPU Block/
> 4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks/
> Rad Fans Coolermaster Excaliber/
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings/
> Primochill Tubing/
> Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2/
> Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
> /BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir/
> Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors


I'm currently doing an orange build my self. Yours looks stunning!!

If you have it do you mind linking the tubing you are using? I'm interested
thanks


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Just adding a bit more detail...
> I have a lot of sleeving and whatnot to do, but here it is for now despite a power outage/surge toasting the motherboard and two of my 7970's yesterday. Oddly enough we just had a transformer replaced from a ice storm last week. Anyway a trip to MicroCenter and the better part of an all nighter and she is up and running again.
> 
> 
> 
> The 2.2 kW Holodeck VII
> 
> [email protected]/
> Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)/
> 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz/
> 4 X HD 7970 Quadfire /
> 1x Corsiar AX1200W/
> 2x FSP Group X5 1000W/
> 1XNexXxos XT45 360mm/
> 2 x NexXxos XT45 240mm/
> 1xNexXxos XT45 120mm Rads/
> 2X VPP-655 Pumps/
> 1X Phobya DC-12-400 Pump
> Koolance 370 CPU Block/
> 4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks/
> Rad Fans Coolermaster Excaliber/
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings/
> Primochill Tubing/
> Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2/
> Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
> /BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir/
> Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently doing an orange build my self. Yours looks stunning!!
> 
> If you have it do you mind linking the tubing you are using? I'm interested
> thanks
Click to expand...

Thanks








This is the stuff here. The color is 'Bloodshed Red" but I noticed in the store (MicroCenter) that it actually takes on a dark orange color and it worked out perfectly.
Primochill LRT 1/2" I.D. 3/4" O.D.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17888/ex-tub-1622/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_12ID_x_34_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-34-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?tl=g30c99


----------



## King4x4

Same tubing I have installed on my Hydra... good thing is I am using also Mayhems X1 UV and a bit more red die in it and it really turned blood red at last!


----------



## PTCB

Re-did the loop. I'll fill it up later on.





Sorry for the poor quality. More shots with better lighting soon.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ok B-neg I got my cards in and mounted... Kinda rigged because I havent receved my custom Dwood brackets yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ignore all the tubes and cableing I will rerout and tidy them after benching tonite. Will post in like 12hours, have any special requests as far as which benchmark you want me to run?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setup in a nutshell:
> Modded Corsair H100i as a waterblock for a FX-8350 with 3/8" ID hoses
> 
> 2x Corsair H70s mounted on a XFX HD 6990 with 1/4"ID Hoses to 3/8" joints
> 
> Modded Corsair H100i Mounted on a ASUS Direct CII HD6970 with 3/8" ID hoses
> 
> Whole system ran by a Industrial 12v-24v Pump that has been modified to run at 5v quietly
> 
> Each item in a full parraleled loop with one XSPC 360mm RAD each(3/8" ID hoses to g1/4 3/8"OD Compression fittings)
> 
> Running a mix of EK Blood red 50/50 mix with Iron Side coolant
> 
> Bracardi 151 Bottle as RES with three Returns and one Out


Do all the usual favorites MCC,IBT,prime and some Catzilla/3DMark?

What ID tube are you using for the pump intake?


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> How does this back plate look in a build called "Monsta's Inc" ?


Tacky.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Better pic of my temporary bench setup.


What bench is that, or is it custom made? I'd love to go back to a bench..

I miss my Clemens 003 techbench that I had before my loop...


















Testing a RIIIG:










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Re-did the loop. I'll fill it up later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the poor quality. More shots with better lighting soon.


Love the tubing.

On topic, one of my favourite shots of my old loop, RX480 in my TJ07.



















Wallet, y u no full?!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do all the usual favorites MCC,IBT,prime and some Catzilla/3DMark?
> 
> What ID tube are you using for the pump intake?


K thx!









Edit: forgot to add: Im using the same 3/8ID for the Pump inlet, I thought bout upgrading to 1/2" or 7/8" but it has worked good so far. I guess I will depend that upgrade on the temps.....







It already moves alot of coolant.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> How does this back plate look in a build called "Monsta's Inc" ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tacky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Better pic of my temporary bench setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What bench is that, or is it custom made? I'd love to go back to a bench..
> 
> I miss my Clemens 003 techbench that I had before my loop...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Testing a RIIIG:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Re-did the loop. I'll fill it up later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the poor quality. More shots with better lighting soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Love the tubing.
> 
> On topic, one of my favourite shots of my old loop, RX480 in my TJ07.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wallet, y u no full?!
Click to expand...

I miss my old bench too....





Dont miss the dust for one minute tho...


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> SLI Titan build delayed again because I can't count PCIE slots correctly apparently and ordered the wrong length of Crytal Link tubes...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I get to wait til tomorrow for the correct set to arrive, after which I'm sure there will be a new stupid problem that will cause yet another delay...


Wich fittings did you use with crystal link? And where to order crystal link? And where to order the proper fittings? And are they easy to set up? Do you like star trek? Is there a european shop with them? If so, wich one?

thanks


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Love the tubing.


Thank you. Me too. I was after the industrial look, OEM, etc. It was the Durelene before the Norprene.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I miss my old bench too....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont miss the dust for one minute tho...


Me neither,










I love my current case though. Looks like a snail.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Thank you. Me too. I was after the industrial look, OEM, etc. It was the Durelene before the Norprene.


You certainly pulled it off. I'd love to do a matte black build with that sort of tubing. Stealthy.


----------



## TonicX

Its not the size but how you use it, H60
http://valid.canardpc.com/2728836 ADD ME PLEASE. 3.5ghz stock

not too sexy but she bucks like a mule.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it is decent for posture.I want to replace it w/ an Embody, But justifying $1000 on a chair once was hard. Spending north of that again is even harder since there really isn't anything wrong w/ my current Aeron.


Yeah, I have mixed emotions about mine. It's definitely comfortable in the sense that it compares favorably to the typical $200 office store chairs. But I would still rather sit in almost any other chair in the house if I have to sit there for more than an hour at a time - which isn't that great since I work at the computer ~10hrs minimum per day.









Really wanted one of these...  but I'm in the same boat... if I got one now and sold my aeron for less than half what I paid... it would be close to 2K for a chair... and if I'm going that far then I'll just get an Eames Lounger and figure out how to shove it under my desk somehow.


----------



## Maximilium

Here is my rig:

*Specs:*
Motherboard: Sabertooth Z77
CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-3770K Processor
Corsair Dominator GT 32 GB
SLI EVGA Hydro Copper GTX 690
SeaSonic X-SERIES 1050W Power Supply
Raid 0 SAMSUNG 840 Series MZ-7TD250BW 2.5" 250GB
Koolance RP-452X2 Dual 5.25in Reservoir
2 koolance PMP-450/S Pumps, Rev.2.0


----------



## w-moffatt

^^ SLI 690's....when money doesnt matter LoL


----------



## PCModderMike

Excited to be back under water again!







Making some progress. The 690 feels like a brick when it's blocked







haha.


----------



## turbobnl

welcome back! love your switch 810 build, and now this!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Excited to be back under water again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some progress. The 690 feels like a brick when it's blocked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, that's looking real good. Can't wait to see if up and running.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Excited to be back under water again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some progress. The 690 feels like a brick when it's blocked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha.


That looks amazing, I love it! Love the blocks!


----------



## Dyceskynes

Leak check on an old Antec 1200 case with a new 180MM XT45 and a AP182.


----------



## bomberjun

New build for the cosmos 2.









Tri 680 sc with non csq wb on a parallel flow ek bridge.





Dual mcp 655 with bp mod kit and acetal top.



More to come.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> welcome back! love your switch 810 build, and now this!


Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Yeah, that's looking real good. Can't wait to see if up and running.


Can't wait myself! Thanks man
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> That looks amazing, I love it! Love the blocks!


Thank you!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Tacky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What bench is that, or is it custom made? I'd love to go back to a bench..
> 
> I miss my Clemens 003 techbench that I had before my loop...


It is a Tecnofront HWD. But I've removed the second shelf.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Yeah, I have mixed emotions about mine. It's definitely comfortable in the sense that it compares favorably to the typical $200 office store chairs. But I would still rather sit in almost any other chair in the house if I have to sit there for more than an hour at a time - which isn't that great since I work at the computer ~10hrs minimum per day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really wanted one of these... but I'm in the same boat... if I got one now and sold my aeron for less than half what I paid... it would be close to 2K for a chair... and if I'm going that far then I'll just get an Eames Lounger and figure out how to shove it under my desk somehow.


I'll have an Eams in my living room on day, I swear.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Excited to be back under water again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some progress. The 690 feels like a brick when it's blocked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha.


You've inspired me heavily in the past to go for the switch and water cooling
Its good to have you back!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> You've inspired me heavily in the past to go for the switch and water cooling
> Its good to have you back!


Wow, that's a real compliment thank you. It goes both ways for sure though. After seeing your work, I'm inspired to try new things and just get back into a nice clean loop myself.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Well the first part has arrived!


Purchased at liquid-extasy.de

now I gotta wait for the micro res and the rad to arrive..must wait..must!


----------



## goldry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> New build for the cosmos 2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tri 680 sc with non csq wb on a parallel flow ek bridge.


----------



## Canis-X

Looks like it is going to be a real looker, welcome back.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Well the first part has arrived!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Purchased at liquid-extasy.de
> 
> now I gotta wait for the micro res and the rad to arrive..must wait..must!


Interesting block, very clean. That website, do they manufacture the blocks themselves?


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ok B-neg I got my cards in and mounted... Kinda rigged because I havent receved my custom Dwood brackets yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ignore all the tubes and cableing I will rerout and tidy them after benching tonite. Will post in like 12hours, have any special requests as far as which benchmark you want me to run?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setup in a nutshell:
> Modded Corsair H100i as a waterblock for a FX-8350 with 3/8" ID hoses
> 
> 2x Corsair H70s mounted on a XFX HD 6990 with 1/4"ID Hoses to 3/8" joints
> 
> Modded Corsair H100i Mounted on a ASUS Direct CII HD6970 with 3/8" ID hoses
> 
> Whole system ran by a Industrial 12v-24v Pump that has been modified to run at 5v quietly
> 
> Each item in a full parraleled loop with one XSPC 360mm RAD each(3/8" ID hoses to g1/4 3/8"OD Compression fittings)
> 
> Running a mix of EK Blood red 50/50 mix with Iron Side coolant
> 
> Bracardi 151 Bottle as RES with three Returns and one Out


Curious as to what made you choose this seemingly overly complex setup as opposed to standard blocks? Was it a desire just to do something different or lack of availability for you in South Korea? Did you come across a bunch of otherwise trashed H70's/H100's to use as waterblocks or something?


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Curious as to what made you choose this seemingly overly complex setup as opposed to standard blocks? Was it a desire just to do something different or lack of availability for you in South Korea? Did you come across a bunch of otherwise trashed H70's/H100's to use as waterblocks or something?


^^^This x1000! That setup does not seem worth it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Curious as to what made you choose this seemingly overly complex setup as opposed to standard blocks? Was it a desire just to do something different or lack of availability for you in South Korea? Did you come across a bunch of otherwise trashed H70's/H100's to use as waterblocks or something?


Curious about that myself. I've seen his log before, and I applaud your dedication and hard work MCC....but the whole thing, just seems over complicated, and at the moment kind of a cluster.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Interesting block, very clean. That website, do they manufacture the blocks themselves?


yes, Marc Gaser does.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Curious about that myself. I've seen his log before, and I applaud your dedication and hard work MCC....but the whole thing, just seems over complicated, and at the moment kind of a cluster.


Ugliest cluster I've ever seen imho. Smdh


----------



## Dzuks

Waiting on a replacement 140 rad, but went ahead and installed some LED.

Yay!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Curious as to what made you choose this seemingly overly complex setup as opposed to standard blocks? Was it a desire just to do something different or lack of availability for you in South Korea? Did you come across a bunch of otherwise trashed H70's/H100's to use as waterblocks or something?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Curious about that myself. I've seen his log before, and I applaud your dedication and hard work MCC....but the whole thing, just seems over complicated, and at the moment kind of a cluster.


Well No, and yes....... I actually already had a surplus of corsair products because I used to own a computer biz and dident liquidate everything when I enlisted(Army). Also I was trying to get sponsored by Corsair, which is kinda 50/50 right now, got some red tape. As for the complication, hard round about way of doing things and the cluster of a build, well........ Thats just my style, despite the fact im new to OCN I have been doing custom builds for years. I usually go all out on my personal build which I usually do once a year but I may be only doing it like every 3 years or so due to my current government obligations. I kinda started as a average build with a small budget, which I already had a H100i so I decided not to throw away that investment and tested it to see how it did as far as temp with a custom loop and it did good! So basically I think I will be keeping my crazy setup unless for some reason I get bad temps which I doubt will happen.....


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Ugliest cluster I've ever seen imho. Smdh


Lolz I would have gave you your first REP+ for your build if it wasn't for that comment lol. You should read..... Just benching at this point not organized as far as tubing or cabling......


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> I'm currently doing an orange build my self. Yours looks stunning!!
> 
> If you have it do you mind linking the tubing you are using? I'm interested
> thanks


I have an orange build as well and I'm using XSPC High Flex UV Orange and it looks great. It matches the orange sleeve from MDPC-x almost perfectly. At the time I bought it, I couldn't find it for sale anywhere in the US, so I bought 25 feet from Specialtech. It might be available somewhere is the States now, but I haven't really looked.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Excited to be back under water again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some progress. The 690 feels like a brick when it's blocked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Interesting. i was surprised on how light my Koolance blocks are. They weigh less the the pig DD 580 block!


----------



## Hokies83

Getting closer...

Now to hook them up and wait 3 days to get the air out of my loop lol


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Interesting. i was surprised on how light my Koolance blocks are. They weigh less the the pig DD 580 block!


Yes, interesting! Normally would have worried me, I hate when a card sags. BUT, with running reverse ATX, no issues.


----------



## InsideJob

I cry myself to sleep every night after looking at this thread


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Well No, and yes....... I actually already had a surplus of corsair products because I used to own a computer biz and dident liquidate everything when I enlisted(Army). Also I was trying to get sponsored by Corsair, which is kinda 50/50 right now, got some red tape. As for the complication, hard round about way of doing things and the cluster of a build, well........ Thats just my style, despite the fact im new to OCN I have been doing custom builds for years. I usually go all out on my personal build which I usually do once a year but I may be only doing it like every 3 years or so due to my current government obligations. I kinda started as a average build with a small budget, which I already had a H100i so I decided not to throw away that investment and tested it to see how it did as far as temp with a custom loop and it did good! So basically I think I will be keeping my crazy setup unless for some reason I get bad temps which I doubt will happen.....


That explains a lot. I'm surprised they'd be willing to sponsor your build in any way given how much you've sort of hacked up their all in one kits. I mean typically the idea of a sponsored build is to showcase the product in its complete form and not how you can remove it and break it down and replace the radiators with better radiators and then swap out the internals on some of the pumps. I wish you the best of luck, but having experience with parts sponsorships in the automotive racing field I don't see how this would benefit Corsair in anyway aside from their fans and powersupply maybe.


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I cry myself to sleep every night after looking at this thread


me too


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Lolz I would have gave you your first REP+ for your build if it wasn't for that comment lol. You should read..... Just benching at this point not organized as far as tubing or cabling......


If only that rep could buy me a bottle of beer...


----------



## goldry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I cry myself to sleep every night after looking at this thread


+1


----------



## wermad

Since ppl are posting backplates, so shall I


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Since ppl are posting backplates, so shall I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well in that case...




























Jeffinslaw


----------



## kcuestag

Need a quick reply regarding HWLabs rad, I'm about to buy a HWLabs Black Ice SR1 420mm since the Alphacool Nexxos UT60 420mm is out of stock, wondering how the SR1 compares? It's a bit more expensive, so I hope it's at least as good.

Forgot to mention, it will be paired with 3x Noctua NF-A14 FLX on pull.


----------



## wermad

Love SR1s


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I cry myself to sleep every night after looking at this thread


Same... I can't wait for my first loop. I don't like the Raystorm block, so here's my plan so far:
Feel free to give me some input if my choices are obviously bad.
*Blocks:*

Koolance CPU-370SA (because black)
EK-FB ASUS Crosshair V-Z - Acetal (VRM/NB block)
*Fans:*

Gentle Typhoon 120mm AP-29 fans for the rads - PWM Mod planned, I'll probably run all of them from the same header/wire, either on the board or the fan controller.
*Rads:*

2x Slim 240mm rad (please suggest me something worth my money, under 100$.
1x Slim 120mm rad (please suggest me something worth my money, under 100$.
*Pump*: D5 vario/MCP655
*Liquid:* Distilled water (need to find a silver coil)
*Tubing:* I have no idea. Does not need to be transparent. I won't dye my water. Still unsure with the diameter...
*Bits:*

Temp sensor plug(s)
Drain port if possible
Fill port would be nice too.
matte black bits that aren't prone to leaks... Still unsure if I want Compression Fittings or barbs. Needs more reading.
I have to keep in mind that the pc will sometimes be moved in a car. So anything overkill on safety is welcomed.

Edit: fixed block branding.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Well in that case...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Now those are some nice looking back plates.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Need a quick reply regarding HWLabs rad, I'm about to buy a HWLabs Black Ice SR1 420mm since the Alphacool Nexxos UT60 420mm is out of stock, wondering how the SR1 compares? It's a bit more expensive, so I hope it's at least as good.
> 
> Forgot to mention, it will be paired with 3x Noctua NF-A14 FLX on pull.


As far a good quality rad goes, SR1's are one of the best when it comes to build quality and cooling performance. Paired up with those Noc fans, you can't go wrong.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Same... I can't wait for my first loop. I don't like the Raystorm block, so here's my plan so far:
> Feel free to give me some input if my choices are obviously bad.
> *Blocks:*
> 
> Koolance CPU-370SA (because black)
> EK-FB ASUS Crosshair V-Z - Acetal (VRM/NB block)
> 
> I have to keep in mind that the pc will sometimes be moved in a car. So anything overkill on safety is welcomed.
> 
> Edit: fixed block branding.


I'm a fan of the Bitspower blocks. They have a nice range of options and I think they look pretty clean.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c85/s139/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Water_Blocks_CPU-CPU_Water_Blocks_-Page1.html?o=title_az


----------



## Hokies83

filling loop atm.


----------



## LayerCakes

Will this work? Or do I have to use different inlet / outlet ports?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> Will this work? Or do I have to use different inlet / outlet ports?


If you're going to use parallel, the outlet has the to be the opposite side.
Quote:


>


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you're going to use parallel, the outlet has the to be the opposite side.


And I don't have any more tube. Daaaaaaammn.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> And I don't have any more tube. Daaaaaaammn.


Take off one of the tube/sli-connector to run series.


----------



## PwndN00b

If you just want the look of parrallel, just damn up the right hand tube with a 7/16 ball/plug what-have-you.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Take off one of the tube/sli-connector to run series.


I had series before but switching to parallel in hope of better cpu temps. I sorted it anyway. Thanks!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Take off one of the tube/sli-connector to run series.
> 
> 
> 
> I had series before but switching to parallel in hope of better cpu temps. I sorted it anyway. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Just be aware that parallel takes a loy of flow, much more than series. the temps however are phenomenal if you can provide the flow. I am running my quad setup and have three pumps doing it.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> That explains a lot. I'm surprised they'd be willing to sponsor your build in any way given how much you've sort of hacked up their all in one kits. I mean typically the idea of a sponsored build is to showcase the product in its complete form and not how you can remove it and break it down and replace the radiators with better radiators and then swap out the internals on some of the pumps. I wish you the best of luck, but having experience with parts sponsorships in the automotive racing field I don't see how this would benefit Corsair in anyway aside from their fans and powersupply maybe.


Yes you are right, that and my small amount of exposure is the reason my sponsorship is still in mitigation. But if you can show off a logo in just the right ways it can imprint in people and they will buy there products(3 out of 10) when walking around int here local best buy. Its nice to see someone that is in the automotive field on here, I am a mechanic by trait. I used to drag race in charlotte and Raleigh's drag strip(North Carolina), we had a small team. Got most of our stuff from Holcomb's Motorsports. I have a 1985 GT Mustang(the fox body) with a 302 stroked 40 over for 308 displacement. GT 40 heads, Keith black pistons, 90 lift cam, the works! I miss my baby!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Excited to be back under water again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making some progress. The 690 feels like a brick when it's blocked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks brilliant Mike! Only question is when are you going to post more vids on your Youtube channel????


----------



## Deaam

Took some new photos of my newest mod:





It is, or was.. Lian li PC-Q01 itx-case.

It has "slim"mATX motherboard, i5-3570k, GTX660, 4GB ram and 60Gb SSD.

GPU and CPU are in same loop, cooled by that 140rad, Airpenetrator 141 pushing air at 600Rpm~ and EK DCP 2.2 pumping at 950Rpm


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Just be aware that parallel takes a loy of flow, much more than series. the temps however are phenomenal if you can provide the flow. I am running my quad setup and have three pumps doing it.


I might add another DDC then when I have the money. Unfortunately I just lost my job and finding another is a pretty difficult thing for a seventeen year old.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> That explains a lot. I'm surprised they'd be willing to sponsor your build in any way given how much you've sort of hacked up their all in one kits. I mean typically the idea of a sponsored build is to showcase the product in its complete form and not how you can remove it and break it down and replace the radiators with better radiators and then swap out the internals on some of the pumps. I wish you the best of luck, but having experience with parts sponsorships in the automotive racing field I don't see how this would benefit Corsair in anyway aside from their fans and powersupply maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you are right, that and my small amount of exposure is the reason my sponsorship is still in mitigation. But if you can show off a logo in just the right ways it can imprint in people and they will buy there products(3 out of 10) when walking around int here local best buy. Its nice to see someone that is in the automotive field on here, I am a mechanic by trait. I used to drag race in charlotte and Raleigh's drag strip(North Carolina), we had a small team. Got most of our stuff from Holcomb's Motorsports. I have a 1985 GT Mustang(the fox body) with a 302 stroked 40 over for 308 displacement. GT 40 heads, Keith black pistons, 90 lift cam, the works! I miss my baby!
Click to expand...

Good luck with Corsair,you will need it.......


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deaam*
> 
> Took some new photos of my newest mod:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is, or was.. Lian li PC-Q01 itx-case.
> 
> It has "slim"mATX motherboard, i5-3570k, GTX660, 4GB ram and 60Gb SSD.
> 
> GPU and CPU are in same loop, cooled by that 140rad, Airpenetrator 141 pushing air at 600Rpm~ and EK DCP 2.2 pumping at 950Rpm


My Golly these is a marvelous build, Love it









could you share a bit more on that beautiful mod of yours with the fan? (and the possibility of letting us the permission to use a similar concept? though i would understand with you wouldn't want to)


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deaam*
> 
> Took some new photos of my newest mod:
> 
> It is, or was.. Lian li PC-Q01 itx-case.
> 
> It has "slim"mATX motherboard, i5-3570k, GTX660, 4GB ram and 60Gb SSD.
> 
> GPU and CPU are in same loop, cooled by that 140rad, Airpenetrator 141 pushing air at 600Rpm~ and EK DCP 2.2 pumping at 950Rpm


That is beautiful, I was wondering for a minute, how could you turn a prodigy to one like that
than the bottom comment explain everything








great job!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I might add another DDC then when I have the money. Unfortunately I just lost my job and finding another is a pretty difficult thing for a seventeen year old.


At that age, you already have that kind of a rig
You should be more than lucky my friend








Im working my *** out now, and modding has become my gateaway after a hectic day


----------



## rotary7

Just wanted to share my rig and yeah thats a 30'' dell that looks really small lol


----------



## LayerCakes

Fiiiinally added that drain line.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deaam*
> 
> Took some new photos of my newest mod:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is, or was.. Lian li PC-Q01 itx-case.
> 
> It has "slim"mATX motherboard, i5-3570k, GTX660, 4GB ram and 60Gb SSD.
> 
> GPU and CPU are in same loop, cooled by that 140rad, Airpenetrator 141 pushing air at 600Rpm~ and EK DCP 2.2 pumping at 950Rpm


this is one awesome @ss build man, i would love to own that! need more internal pics!


----------



## Kimir

The 680 Lightning LEDs are strong lol


blah, I can still post process the image, tho.

Indeed I need white tubing








Anyone know if white tubing exist in matte finish? I've seen black neoprene. I liked the matte finish of the H100i tubing, if it does exist in white, I want !
Primochill PrimoFlex LRT seems to be the less shiny-ish of what I can find.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I had series before but switching to parallel in hope of better cpu temps. I sorted it anyway. Thanks!


I tested loop order (gpu>cpu vs cpu>gpu) and there was no difference in temps. I used *four* gtx 480s in this test so that was the perfect scenario to observe possible differences in temps on the order. The difference was insignificant.

As far as parallel vs series flow, i found series maintains higher pressure in the loop which helps a ton with restrictive blocks. There was *no* difference in temps either running parallel or series (quad gtx 580s).


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I tested loop order (gpu>cpu vs cpu>gpu) and there was no difference in temps. I used *four* gtx 480s in this test so that was the perfect scenario to observe possible differences in temps on the order. The difference was insignificant.
> 
> As far as parallel vs series flow, i found series maintains higher pressure in the loop which helps a ton with restrictive blocks. There was *no* difference in temps either running parallel or series (quad gtx 580s).


I'm a good 8c cooler, Ive just tried both


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> The 680 Lightning LEDs are strong lol
> 
> Indeed I need white tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if white tubing exist in matte finish? I've seen black neoprene. I liked the matte finish of the H100i tubing, if it does exist in white, I want !
> Primochill PrimoFlex LRT seems to be the less shiny-ish of what I can find.


That is one awesome rig

You wont go wrong with the primoflex though; still, when choosing a tube IMHO is to watch out for the plasticizer
I'm currently using a clear one
How about masterkleer, I think I've seen their product in white
I've used their product in the past and seems to have no problem


----------



## xxxaksxxx

Here is my first WC build "ECHELON", specs are in signature and build log.


----------



## HF Venom

I just ordered the P630 case







watercooling adventures v2 starts soon! will post some pics as soon as I have something to show


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Finally got my paint today (although i am primarily using the blue and/or turquiose)
and can finally finish painting then assembling this comp.
primed my rads and remaining fans last night.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Well in that case...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


lookin good


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Finally got my paint today (although i am primarily using the blue and/or turquiose)
> and can finally finish painting then assembling this comp.
> primed my rads and remaining fans last night.


Amazing paint job, any build log maybe?


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Just installed a Seasonic X-850 PSU into my rig in order to quiet it down at idle. I was wondering if yall thought another 120mm rad in the rear is worth it considering I have 2x240mm rads already cooling an I5-2500k and an AMD HD7970. I'm running my AP-15 around 1400rpm with my fan controllers.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Amazing paint job, any build log maybe?


thanks.funny you should ask that...yes i'll be putting one up shortly..
been collecting pics on my comp for a while just
haven't had a chance to make an actual build log
on here yet.this weekend i plan on it.








it's only my second comp i am attempting to
build/built so we'll see how it goes..so far so good
though..


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> Just installed a Seasonic X-850 PSU into my rig in order to quiet it down at idle. I was wondering if yall thought another 120mm rad in the rear is worth it considering I have 2x240mm rads already cooling an I5-2500k and an AMD HD7970. I'm running my AP-15 around 1400rpm with my fan controllers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good looking rig







adding a 120mm rad to that setup will probably do nothing for temps. Wouldn't be worth the cost and the potential of having the loop look like a cluster mess.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Good looking rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> adding a 120mm rad to that setup will probably do nothing for temps. Wouldn't be worth the cost and the potential of having the loop look like a cluster mess.


Thanks, I was thinking that adding an additional 120mm rad would let me slow down the other fans for more silence without loss to cooling efficiency. Dang, I just realized how bad my pics are.


----------



## Hokies83

So im Wondering what to do with my PCI-E cables?

1. Between the 2 6pins tight to the gpus wraped behind the 400ML res

2. Or between PCB and back plates hidden and wraped around in behind MB tray

3. Once again coming undr the MB tray looking like a single braid?

what i got...


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Finally got my paint today (although i am primarily using the blue and/or turquiose)
> and can finally finish painting then assembling this comp.
> primed my rads and remaining fans last night.


SWEET!







I did the same thing with my Corsair SP120L's!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> thanks.funny you should ask that...yes i'll be putting one up shortly..
> been collecting pics on my comp for a while just
> haven't had a chance to make an actual build log
> on here yet.this weekend i plan on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's only my second comp i am attempting to
> build/built so we'll see how it goes..so far so good
> though..


I'll be waiting for the log








IMO its looking great, I love painted radiators

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> So im Wondering what to do with my PCI-E cables?
> 
> 1. Between the 2 6pins tight to the gpus wraped behind the 400ML res
> 
> 2. Or between PCB and back plates hidden and wraped around in behind MB tray
> 
> 3. Once again coming undr the MB tray looking like a single braid?
> 
> what i got...


Personally I love having straight line cables especially if its sleeved with a pattern, really show off the beautifulness of the sleeving
so I'm voting on the third one


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> Just wanted to share my rig and yeah thats a 30'' dell that looks really small lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build. Are you using UV PrimoChill tubes?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxxaksxxx*
> 
> Here is my first WC build "ECHELON", specs are in signature and build log.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good job on the sleeving. Always nice to see people taking the time and doing it right.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> OMG i'm so close to starting I can taste it! Just waiting on my fusion reservoir to arrive from the US.
> 
> Here's the goodies so far! I may have gotten carried away but it's my first watercooled rig, I'm allowed to


It's arrived!

Now to wait until next weekend where I have 2 weeks off to do the whole build.
So excited!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Must... resist... childish jokes...
> 
> 
> But seriously, *its like red spaghetti right now*. I like the color though.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> @MCC, how do you plan to route all of it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I'm a good 8c cooler, Ive just tried both


which method? There was an obvious issue with your loop (incorrect parallel setup) so you can't really compare temps, ?


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> It's arrived!
> 
> Now to wait until next weekend where I have 2 weeks off to do the whole build.
> So excited!


srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...

but to each his own I guess


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...
> 
> but to each his own I guess


I think there one of the best looking things that can be done to a build.

It makes it so you can have a nice looking res with out needing Dyes etc.

I think putting Dye in a loop is kinda Tacky but then again that is my Opinion.


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> SWEET!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the same thing with my Corsair SP120L's!


What kind of paint did you use?!


----------



## Plutonium10

Well, after an incredible 5 months of RMA disputes, I got my money back for a faulty 7970 I bought, and I'm going to get a GTX 680 instead. If only I hadn't bought the Watercool waterblock and backplate for my 7970 3 months ago...







Guess I'll need to build up some rep so I can sell it on the forums.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> What kind of paint did you use?!


Ive tried differant stuff but what has worked best for me is Krylon plastic paint, its light and hard. Takes 2 coats max. Also I bake @ 170 degrees or just hit it with a heatgun real quick!


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ive tried differant stuff but what has worked best for me is Krylon plastic paint, its light and hard. Takes 2 coats max. Also I bake @ 170 degrees or just hit it with a heatgun real quick!


Alright thanks!


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...
> 
> but to each his own I guess


Nope I agree with you. Don't fancy them at all


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Nope I agree with you. Don't fancy them at all


Yea I kinda agree too, I think they look cool, but they are begining to be played out. I can come up with somting way more creative for the same price.....


----------



## h2on0

I think they are awesome!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> So im Wondering what to do with my PCI-E cables?
> 
> 1. Between the 2 6pins tight to the gpus wraped behind the 400ML res
> 
> 2. Or between PCB and back plates hidden and wraped around in behind MB tray
> 
> 3. Once again coming undr the MB tray looking like a single braid?
> 
> what i got...
> 
> 
> 
> I would go for option 3 unt the MB tray so it does not distract from the res


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> Just wanted to share my rig and yeah thats a 30'' dell that looks really small lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude, awesome build! Never got to see it before now. Awesome desk as well!


----------



## Deaam

Someone asked more pics and details of some stuff in this build:



If you want more info, pls ask in y project log, so its easier to answer and show pictures os working methods asked









http://www.overclock.net/t/1355996/case-mod-watercooled-q08-itx-casemod-updated-15-3/0_50


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...
> 
> but to each his own I guess


Their money, their choice. With that said, there's definitely a market for them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> It's arrived!
> 
> Now to wait until next weekend where I have 2 weeks off to do the whole build.
> So excited!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...
> 
> but to each his own I guess
Click to expand...

Im with you on this too,its purely aesthetics tho.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...
> 
> but to each his own I guess


I also got Dominator platinums because I think they look bad ass

I'm still excited for my first WC build and am stoked I was able to get everything I wanted


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Need a quick reply regarding HWLabs rad, I'm about to buy a HWLabs Black Ice SR1 420mm since the Alphacool Nexxos UT60 420mm is out of stock, wondering how the SR1 compares? It's a bit more expensive, so I hope it's at least as good.
> 
> Forgot to mention, it will be paired with 3x Noctua NF-A14 FLX on pull.


If this is for your switch 810 build, be aware that you'll have to install it with the fittings to the front, which likely will require some modding.

It's core length is 10mm more than the UT60, that's why.

Additionally, while it will outperform the UT 60 at low fan speeds, it will fall behind around the 1000 to 1200 rpm point.

Basically the UT60 is more capable if you don't mind a bit more fan noise, the SR1 if you want the best at inaudible fan speeds.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> which method? There was an obvious issue with your loop (incorrect parallel setup) so you can't really compare temps, ?


One of my GPU blocks is a fair bit more restrictive than the other I think. And this was really slowing down the flow rate.


----------



## rotary7

Yeah, and the tubing seems like its almost kink free


----------



## rotary7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice build. Are you using UV PrimoChill tubes?


yeah thats the tubing im using right now, i might change it to white soon


----------



## rotary7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Dude, awesome build! Never got to see it before now. Awesome desk as well!


thanks bud, i love my desk to, its from bush office furniture.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Well, after an incredible 5 months of RMA disputes, I got my money back for a faulty 7970 I bought, and I'm going to get a GTX 680 instead. If only I hadn't bought the Watercool waterblock and backplate for my 7970 3 months ago...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I'll need to build up some rep so I can sell it on the forums.


Try ebay. You might be surprised what folks out there might be looking out for.


----------



## kkorky

Ok, to quote the FF "Done, done, and im onto the next one, done done and onto the next one"

Enough is enough-there is only so much work you can do on a HAF 922 before it starts to look cluttered.

Ive tried my best-and i hope this provides just a little inspiration to others who may want to try the same thing











Sorry about this photos quality but i didnt have the tripod for this shot:





I'm about to start work on a new loop using a Gunmetal grey case-mobo has a bit of blue on it, but i dont want to use blue again









Any suggestions on coolant colour-ie dye or pastel (ill be using clear tubing), silver fittings, all of the hardware will be black.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...
> 
> but to each his own I guess


I'm not a fan of them at all either. But I'm also not a fan of big flashy lights.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...
> 
> but to each his own I guess
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a fan of them at all either. But I'm also not a fan of big flashy lights.
Click to expand...

^This. I used to want a T-Virus, but then I took...








Nah, I just grew out of it. I prefer bay res more.

@builds since my last post: Nice. Very nice.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...
> 
> but to each his own I guess


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'm not a fan of them at all either. But I'm also not a fan of big flashy lights.


I'm also really not a huge fan of them, tube or bay style. I'm partial to my Lund PomPlex res


----------



## Rakin

This is what my current system looks like. Now, since I've ordered a Phoybia Balancer 250mm Reservior, I was thinking of putting the pump with the XSPC reservior top below the midplate, somewhat like the image shown below. The pump is a Swiftech MCP 355. Opinions, guys?


----------



## Michalius

Some more pics from my build log:


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic


Do you have an idea already on how those eLoops perform behind that grill?


----------



## Michalius

I do know that when they are placed on top of a grill they can whine. However, there is about 10-15mm of space between them and the grill. I plugged them in last night to make sure the noise wasn't present, and sure enough, they were as quiet as a mouse.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> This is what my current system looks like. Now, since I've ordered a Phoybia Balancer 250mm Reservior, I was thinking of putting the pump with the XSPC reservior top below the midplate, somewhat like the image shown below. The pump is a Swiftech MCP 355. Opinions, guys?


I have my phobya balancer 150 on the opposite side of the case to your diagram for 2 main reasons 1) The ventilation grille provides convenient fixing holes for the brackets whereas the HDD cage is a difficult shape to attach the reservoir. and 2) Depending on whether you have a windowed side panel or not the rear position allows you to see the reservoir whereas in my HAF-X it would be partially or wholly invisible if it was at the front.


----------



## nyk20z3

Off the Performancpc.com FB page lol -


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Off the Performancpc.com FB page lol -


LoL that was my Game plan till i found a Mountain Mods Asension for 230$


----------



## Michalius

Good lord.


----------



## wermad

Massive


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Off the Performancpc.com FB page lol -


i guess this is just for the CPU loop







(barely)


----------



## Nikola-Tesla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Off the Performancpc.com FB page lol -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Stealth UAV!


Can it fly?


----------



## Canis-X

.....but can it play Crysis?


----------



## wermad

Wind tunnel, ?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wind tunnel, ?


Nah my case is the wind tunnel XD




I had all of the fans on for the first time like 3 weeks ago and i swear there is so much air moving around it feels like my PC room has a ceiling fan running on MED speed lol.

Ah there is like 8 more fans not pictured there lol.


----------



## Arknoodle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Off the Performancpc.com FB page lol -


that's a fortune in fans alone lol


----------



## jomama22

I have 26 3800 rpm deltas screaming in an extended ascension. Literay sounds like a jet when I first start it up, but thankfully they are pwm.


----------



## wermad

I has 28 R4s, whisper quiet at 40% load


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Off the Performancpc.com FB page lol -


Wasteful fail.....

Still,it bought a smile to my face.

I bet there is some low end mATX in there just to ice the cake.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wasteful fail.....
> 
> Still,it bought a smile to my face.
> 
> I bet there is some low end mATX in there just to ice the cake.


Depends what delta t you are going for. With my 3 7970 lightnings and 3960x with 4x360 gtx rads i can get a delta as low as 3* under full load.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wasteful fail.....
> 
> Still,it bought a smile to my face.
> 
> I bet there is some low end mATX in there just to ice the cake.


If this is the same system as the one they posted pictures of before, it's a dual 2011 socket board with quad GPUs.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I has 28 R4s, whisper quiet at 40% load


nice. I contemplated the r4s but I wanted to be able to crank it up for all out benches. The deltas go as low as 12% (1100 ROMs) and max at 3800.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Off the Performancpc.com FB page lol -


I wont need an aircon anymore with that in my room
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> Depends what delta t you are going for. With my 3 7970 lightnings and 3960x with 4x360 gtx rads i can get a delta as low as 3* under full load.


thats amazing delta,
3c delta full load, too good to be true i guess?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wasteful fail.....
> 
> Still,it bought a smile to my face.
> 
> I bet there is some low end mATX in there just to ice the cake.
> 
> 
> 
> If this is the same system as the one they posted pictures of before, it's a dual 2011 socket board with quad GPUs.
Click to expand...

Still wasteful but at least the rig kind of justifies it..
Sadly 2011 Xeons just don't get hot,thanks for the lack of OCing Intel,way to go.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wasteful fail.....
> 
> Still,it bought a smile to my face.
> 
> I bet there is some low end mATX in there just to ice the cake.
> 
> 
> 
> If this is the same system as the one they posted pictures of before, it's a dual 2011 socket board with quad GPUs.
Click to expand...

Still wasteful but at least the rig kind of justifies it..
Sadly 2011 Xeons just don't get hot,thanks for the lack of OCing Intel,way to go.....


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Off the Performancpc.com FB page lol -
> 
> 
> 
> *I wont need an aircon anymore with that in my room*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> Depends what delta t you are going for. With my 3 7970 lightnings and 3960x with 4x360 gtx rads i can get a delta as low as 3* under full load.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thats amazing delta,
> 3c delta full load, too good to be true i guess?
Click to expand...

I want to point this out ... You would need more airconditioning. That thing puts out at least 1200W of heat into your room. Running a computer on full load doesn't magically decrease temperatures, no matter how many fans it has


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> nice. I contemplated the r4s but I wanted to be able to crank it up for all out benches. The deltas go as low as 12% (1100 ROMs) and max at 3800.


The r4s are forgiving at max going up to 2k only. Delta's sure are very powerful and noisy







. I went with the R4 mainly for the bling led factor and secondly that they can be dropped low in rpm w/out pwm.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I wont need an aircon anymore with that in my room
> thats amazing delta,
> 3c delta full load, too good to be true i guess?


I would say there is most surely a variance of at least 2*c. Not to mention that the air temp in my room can vary by up to 5*c when running fullboar. I built this for the absolute fact of pushing a lot of air. To put it this way, the top of my case hovers above it like an air hockey puck when I have them full blast, all pulling air into the case. That is with 3 exhaust fans and 3 open bays in the front. I'll take pics when I get home, have been reluctant because I wanted to wait until I sleeved all the cables to post my build Lol.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The r4s are forgiving at max going up to 2k only. Delta's sure are very powerful and noisy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I went with the R4 mainly for the bling led factor and secondly that they can be dropped low in rpm w/out pwm.


the hardest thing to decide was going with either pwm or fan controllers. I ended up with the pwm simply to not have 3 controllers in my front bay as I am constantly changing speed depending on what I am doing.

I wear headphones so the sounds wasn't to big a concern. But i will tell you, even at the lowest speed, it still produces a good amount of noise. I'd gander to say that the deltas bottomed out are probably louder than the r4s at max haha.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I want to point this out ... You would need more airconditioning. That thing puts out at least 1200W of heat into your room. Running a computer on full load doesn't magically decrease temperatures, no matter how many fans it has


The idea is to get it as close to ambient as possible and stay consistently at low delta even with increased ambient temps. Don't get confused, I am not saying it produces the lowest temps as that is all dependent on the ambient air.

The biggest hurdle is keeping the exhausted hot air away from my intake/rads and being able to exhaust the hot air out of the case quick enough.

I should probably also mention that I have 2 separate loops in my computer. CPU/gpu1 and gpu2/gpu3. Both loops use a mcp35x x2 with heatsinks. So I have 1 pump/rad for each chip.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I want to point this out ... You would need more airconditioning. That thing puts out at least 1200W of heat into your room. Running a computer on full load doesn't magically decrease temperatures, no matter how many fans it has
> 
> 
> 
> The idea is to get it as close to ambient as possible and stay consistently at low delta even with increased ambient temps. Don't get confused, I am not saying it produces the lowest temps as that is all dependent on the ambient air.
> 
> The biggest hurdle is keeping the exhausted hot air away from my intake/rads and being able to exhaust the hot air out of the case quick enough.
Click to expand...









I'm completely aware what watercooling does. What I'm addressing is the fact that you said "I wont need an aircon anymore with that in my room"


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm completely aware what watercooling does. What I'm addressing is the fact that you said "I wont need an aircon anymore with that in my room"


O...I didn't say that....Lol. Now it makes sense why I was so confused.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Does any other company make a nice pass through fitting?


Sorry for the newbie question but can someone explain to me how this works? Do you fit a another fitting into each end of this fitting example a plug/stop and a G1/4 barb fitting?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Sorry for the newbie question but can someone explain to me how this works? Do you fit a another fitting into each end of this fitting example a plug/stop and a G1/4 barb fitting?


That's a bulkhead or pass-through fitting. Basically its disign to add to a surface and attache to it. This then gives you threaded ports to add any fitting/plug you want.

Here's a DD one:
Quote:


>


----------



## D33G33

Thanks Wermad, exactly what I assumed just needed to clarify.


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> srsly am I the only one who thinks that those helix reservoirs look tacky a f*ck...? I mean, yeah, maybe if I was 12 year old, maybe then, maybe...
> 
> but to each his own I guess


When I first saw the helix reservoirs I was struck by how exotic they were, and found them quite fascinating, but as they spread, they started to seem overplayed. Now I see someone updating their '99 Gateway desktop with a helix res. Just like any fashion: once it reaches a saturation point, the community starts to reject it. Obviously, some people reach that point faster than others. Others never do.

After all, some women are still wearing Uggz boots and all I can think is, 'hey, Chewbacca called, and he wants his feet back.'


----------



## ginger_nuts

To all the old school water coolers out there, or any who have used T line fill ports before, how hard is it to fill a loop and get the air out using a T line res.?

Also is there and rules to how and where they should be fitted? Are they just a reversal of a drain line? ie. highest point of system.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prof Aronnax*
> 
> After all, some women are still wearing Uggz boots and all I can think is, 'hey, Chewbacca called, and he wants his feet back.'


Man I swear, these boots are fugly!








I was told they are really warm though, so I guess function wins thiz raound haha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> To all the old school water coolers out there, or any who have used T line fill ports before, how hard is it to fill a loop and get the air out using a T line res.?
> 
> Also is there and rules to how and where they should be fitted? Are they just a reversal of a drain line? ie. highest point of system.


Logically, it's best to have the T just before your pump's inlet. The rest does not matter much I would guess.

On a side note, finally got a log goin...so I'll throw this out here


----------



## kingchris

I have noticed some people just dont get 'quick one liner' jokes on these forums. Its only cool cos its hot!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I do know that when they are placed on top of a grill they can whine. However, there is about 10-15mm of space between them and the grill. I plugged them in last night to make sure the noise wasn't present, and sure enough, they were as quiet as a mouse.


Thanks!
I'm planning my new rig and a 180mm rad will be in it as well, the fan in front of it will be breathing through a grill but it does have 20mm of room. If Noiseblocker ever comes with a 180mm eLoop (heard they were planning on it) I'll probably be the first to buy one (unless the Silverstone AP182 is silent enough most of the time)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> To all the old school water coolers out there, or any who have used T line fill ports before, how hard is it to fill a loop and get the air out using a T line res.?
> 
> Also is there and rules to how and where they should be fitted? Are they just a reversal of a drain line? ie. highest point of system.


Its slower filling by t-line and its a pain to bleed with but it does work,you can fit them anywhere as long as they are feeding the pump.
The bigger the T-line length,the easier they are to work with.


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Man I swear, these boots are fugly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was told they are really warm though, so I guess function wins thiz raound haha
> Logically, it's best to have the T just before your pump's inlet. The rest does not matter much I would guess.
> 
> On a side note, finally got a log goin...so I'll throw this out here


yo dog, how you gonna get water through there if it's plugged?

also. crop circles make me a sad panda


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> yo dog, how you gonna get water through there if it's plugged?
> 
> also. crop circles make me a sad panda


Lol pretty sure he's just showing it off

Ive a build log with crop circle as the theme
Pretty sure it can make you go mad hahaha and yes i use CSQ!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its slower filling by t-line and its a pain to bleed with but it does work,you can fit them anywhere as long as they are feeding the pump.
> The bigger the T-line length,the easier they are to work with.


So I guess a loop with exceptional amounts of flow would create more trouble bleeding!!

I may just go a dual bay res. Keeps it easy.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Sorry for the newbie question but can someone explain to me how this works? Do you fit a another fitting into each end of this fitting example a plug/stop and a G1/4 barb fitting?


I used a simple G1/4 plug for one end and i used a coupler (in case
i want to remove the top of my case i still can due to the coupler)
and a 90 degree compression fitting.
hope this helps




***oops just noticed wermad already answered your question.oh well
more info can't hurt lol*****


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Lol pretty sure he's just showing it off
> 
> Ive a build log with crop circle as the theme
> Pretty sure it can make you go mad hahaha and yes i use CSQ!


The ideal computer room http://www.blenderwho.com/index_files/category-tardis.html


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> The ideal computer room http://www.blenderwho.com/index_files/category-tardis.html


Idk man, OCN isn't so keen on the whole circle design thing.


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quick question from a rookie:
I'm not seeing any compression x compression elbows? Is that a no no for some reason?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Quick question from a rookie:
> I'm not seeing any compression x compression elbows? Is that a no no for some reason?


Because most bends are done with tubing to relive restriction,look inside the average 90 fitting and you will see the bore size drop alarmingly.
The only exception I have noticed is the koolance low profile 90 when the screw position is in line with the run coming off it. Its hard to explain it,if someone can post pics of the koolance fitting when its broken down (im on my phone) then it will be clearer.


----------



## Mandrake7062

I was thinking of coming down the back of the case and shooting over to the res, so an od x od would work best I think. Would I use a od x male with a female x od? od = compression.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you are doing this like I think you are,then use a bulkhead fitting with a 90 on the outside leading to a straight run on the inside.
A few 90s in a loop is fine,just don't go over board on them is my advice.


----------



## Dzuks

Guys I just added aquacomp gpu blocks to my water cooling loop for the first with the twinconnect installed. However, I don't think the twinconnect it's installed correctly. Filled up my loop last night, and the gpu blocks got really hot. Anyone here have any experience installing those twinconnect?


----------



## TheNovice

My first case mod and watercooling project....
Thought I would start with my old and trusty components - not wanting to ruin new components like MB, GFX, etc.
Must admit I have been very much inspired by the Pipe Bending 101 thread.... I really like copper!








Next up - new hardware! (been bitten by the OCN bug!)
Sorry for Picture quality - only got my mobile for pics!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> My first case mod and watercooling project....


Wow, a build where Noctua fans don't clash with everything else! Looks good, and nice pipe bending.


----------



## Stickeelion

would anyone here know If one D5/MCP655 could handle the following loop:

Res>D5 Pump>RX240 Rad>EK-Supremacy CPU>Mobo (NB) Block>RX480 Rad>dual-7970 Block>RX420 Rad>Res

or would I need a second D5 in series?


----------



## Hokies83

Seems like alot for a 655 mcp 35X should be enough or a D5 Strong.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> My first case mod and watercooling project....
> Thought I would start with my old and trusty components - not wanting to ruin new components like MB, GFX, etc.
> Must admit I have been very much inspired by the Pipe Bending 101 thread.... I really like copper!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up - new hardware! (been bitten by the OCN bug!)
> Sorry for Picture quality - only got my mobile for pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very well done, and for the first mod +1

And the OCN bug can bite pretty hard.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I'm glad you found my pipe bending thread helpful TheNovice.


----------



## azrael36

WoW all these great looking custom loop systems are making me so jealous! I just started water cooling a few days ago. I bought an Antec Kuhler 920 to install in my sig rig. I will open it up and snap some photos. Though the guts of this build will soon be moved to a semi modded HAF X that I just bought from an OCN member yesterday. I am eagerly awaiting it's arrival and having the room that it will afford me for all the mods I want to do. My build is currently residing in a Thermaltake V3 AMD Edition mid tower which is very limited on room, extremely restrictive cable management and just plain to SMALL for the visions dancing in my head that want to come to life


----------



## Plutonium10

Has anybody here put a waterblock on any of EVGA's higher end GTX 680 Cards such as the SC Signature 2? I know they have an extra VRM stage, but apart from that they seem pretty much identical to reference. I'm just not sure wether I should play it safe and get a GTX 680 SC+ with ref PCB, or pay $20 more to get an extra VRM stage, 6+8 pin power connectors and possibly a better binned GPU.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Seems like alot for a 655 mcp 35X should be enough or a D5 Strong.


Well I want to use standard D5's not the strong version as I am after silence. So I take it you would suggest that I need 2 D5's in series?
out of curiosity would 2 loops perform any better as that will be only $40 more?

anyone else? I'm about to put my order through.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Has anybody here put a waterblock on any of EVGA's higher end GTX 680 Cards such as the SC Signature 2? I know they have an extra VRM stage, but apart from that they seem pretty much identical to reference. I'm just not sure wether I should play it safe and get a GTX 680 SC+ with ref PCB, or pay $20 more to get an extra VRM stage, 6+8 pin power connectors and possibly a better binned GPU.


Seeing as the 6xx series are not held back by the VRM section I would suggest getting the ref card.


----------



## turbobnl

That looks super good! good job
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> My first case mod and watercooling project....
> Thought I would start with my old and trusty components - not wanting to ruin new components like MB, GFX, etc.
> Must admit I have been very much inspired by the Pipe Bending 101 thread.... I really like copper!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up - new hardware! (been bitten by the OCN bug!)
> Sorry for Picture quality - only got my mobile for pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Guys I just added aquacomp gpu blocks to my water cooling loop for the first with the twinconnect installed. However, I don't think the twinconnect it's installed correctly. Filled up my loop last night, and the gpu blocks got really hot. Anyone here have any experience installing those twinconnect?


No response! No worries, I just fixed it myself... Smh


----------



## azrael36

OK so I popped the case and uploaded some pics of my antec kuhler 920 to post here. Please don't make fun of me because I just started into water cooling and have not grown to the stage where I am comfortable making my own customized loops, etc. I hope to one day reach that stage and with the help and guidance of the great people here at OCN I feel strongly that I will have great teachers and mentors! So without further ado...


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seeing as the 6xx series are not held back by the VRM section I would suggest getting the ref card.


Ok, makes sense. I don't think there's any significant difference in the chip binning anyways. Thanks.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Well I want to use standard D5's not the strong version as I am after silence. So I take it you would suggest that I need 2 D5's in series?
> out of curiosity would 2 loops perform any better as that will be only $40 more?
> 
> anyone else? I'm about to put my order through.


I'm not the one to tell you about if you nééd a second D5 (not enough experience) but if you do get a second D5 put them in series. A separate CPU/GPU loop won't gain you anything at all and having the D5's in series gives you some redundancy in case one pump fails => in my point of view a major vote for D5's in series.
If you can afford it I'd advise you to go for the swiftech PWM version of the D5. Especially since you're all after silence this will keep the sound level of the pumps at a minimum at all times.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> OK so I popped the case and uploaded some pics of my antec kuhler 920 to post here. Please don't make fun of me because I just started into water cooling and have not grown to the stage where I am comfortable making my own customized loops, etc. I hope to one day reach that stage and with the help and guidance of the great people here at OCN I feel strongly that I will have great teachers and mentors! So without further ado...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


you need to do some serious cable management


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Well I want to use standard D5's not the strong version as I am after silence. So I take it you would suggest that I need 2 D5's in series?
> out of curiosity would 2 loops perform any better as that will be only $40 more?
> 
> anyone else? I'm about to put my order through.


id order 2 D5s


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> id order 2 D5s


right on it


----------



## Dzuks

Loop completed... First custom full loop. Yay!


----------



## sanitarium

compression fittings going in when I get up the feels


----------



## jomama22

This is a work in progress. Still need to sleeve all the cables. Will be adding 4 exhaust holes in the side panels.
3960x
3x 7979 lightning
Asrock extreme9 x79
Gskill 1600 cl8 16gb

2 loops. CPU/gpu1 gpu2/gpu3
4x 360 gtx rads (2 per loop)
4x mcp35x (2 per loop)
28 fans (26 delta 3800rpm pwm, 2 crappy pwm fans)
....more to come, just a rundown of the basics....





Just a preview of what's to come...u wanted something different than just the same old bridge for the GPUs and the lightning blocks bade it possible. The plumbing will be matched with sleeving that will follow the same idea(be exposed and laid along the chassis...hard to explain but trust me.)


----------



## jomama22

Double post


----------



## azrael36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> you need to do some serious cable management


I know,







but it's really not possible with this box. There are no routing holes, there is maybe a 1/8th inch of space behind the mobo tray, and I am going to be selling this box to my brother so I don't want to go cutting on it just yet. I will have a Cooler Master HAF X sometime next week, so I'm just going to hold off on cable management until I move everything into that.

*ETA* This was the first computer I've built in more than 10 years, I'm still a little rusty


----------



## bomberjun

Build quad 360 rads inside the cosmos 2. Two more to go. One on the front pannel.. and another on top.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> OK so I popped the case and uploaded some pics of my antec kuhler 920 to post here. Please don't make fun of me because I just started into water cooling and have not grown to the stage where I am comfortable making my own customized loops, etc. I hope to one day reach that stage and with the help and guidance of the great people here at OCN I feel strongly that I will have great teachers and mentors! So without further ado...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pix


No laughs shall be given, everything water is accepted, last time I saw. The Antec looks better than the H80, for sure!
Try using tie-wraps for the cable management.








Also +1 for alt text. +1 +1 +1 

Edit: _Fixed double-quote_ -_-


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Loop completed... First custom full loop. Yay!


How good did it feel when you powered up and the coolant started pumping round and everything worked OK?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> This is a work in progress. Still need to sleeve all the cables. Will be adding 4 exhaust holes in the side panels.
> 3960x
> 3x 7979 lightning
> Asrock extreme9 x79
> Gskill 1600 cl8 16gb
> 
> 2 loops. CPU/gpu1 gpu2/gpu3
> 4x 360 gtx rads (2 per loop)
> 4x mcp35x (2 per loop)
> 28 fans (26 delta 3800rpm pwm, 2 crappy pwm fans)
> ....more to come, just a rundown of the basics....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a preview of what's to come...u wanted something different than just the same old bridge for the GPUs and the lightning blocks bade it possible. The plumbing will be matched with sleeving that will follow the same idea(be exposed and laid along the chassis...hard to explain but trust me.)


Sounds great! you have 2 pumps 2 much tho lol " well more is always good" but my huge loop is running 2 and man those bad boys move some water thru my quad monsta's!

Also is that a Mountain Mods Ascension i see?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> you need to do some serious cable management


I wasn't gonna say anything lol I figured someone would do it for me


----------



## azrael36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I wasn't gonna say anything lol I figured someone would do it for me


I know guys, in fact I will open her up tomorrow and straighten out as well as I can. I will resubmit photos and hopefully get a little more guidance


----------



## Hokies83

Yeah i find Cable management the hardest thing when u build on a massive scale it is easy to have 20+ hrs just in that alone.


----------



## macandy13

Some of these builds are monumental compared to my first attempt :O


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Sounds great! you have 2 pumps 2 much tho lol " well more is always good" but my huge loop is running 2 and man those bad boys move some water thru my quad monsta's!
> 
> Also is that a Mountain Mods Ascension i see?


Thanks man

Yea I know the pumps are overkill Lol. They send water around like it is a water park.

Its an extended ascension with a srx tray. Probably going to buy the eat tray soon but I wanted the 10pcie brackets and they didn't have it at the time.

I'm dreading/anxious about the sleeving. Have only done it a few times and there are and insane amount of cables in there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Some of these builds are monumental compared to my first attempt :O


We all start somewhere mate.


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> My lil contribution to the gallery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Loving that R4 and the AC blocks, really cool that you fit all that in there.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We all start somewhere mate.


True, looking to get a couple more GPU's to and add them to my loop before i OC them.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> I know guys, in fact I will open her up tomorrow and straighten out as well as I can. I will resubmit photos and hopefully get a little more guidance


Dont get me wrong im the outside of the box type when it comes to case setups, I personally think that it looks kinda bad ass with the red glow, reminds me of a bomb! But for most people its a aesthetic "no no"


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> How good did it feel when you powered up and the coolant started pumping round and everything worked OK?


Felt great and works great! My GPUs under full load don't even hit 47C... Sweet! I'm already thinking about getting another case and adding a monsta 360 Rad and a third GTX680 to my loop.
It's an addiction, I tell ya! Smdh


----------



## Scorpion49

Well, I added some LED lighting to my build and then tried to finagle my camera into taking some non-blurry pictures of everything. It did an admirable job with the addition of the lighting give that I dropped it and it doesn't auto-focus unless its zoomed in almost all the way. Also, you can see that halfway through I did notice my res wasn't topped off so I stopped to add some water.



















Spoiler: Moar Pics


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Well, I added some LED lighting to my build and then tried to finagle my camera into taking some non-blurry pictures of everything. It did an admirable job with the addition of the lighting give that I dropped it and it doesn't auto-focus unless its zoomed in almost all the way. Also, you can see that halfway through I did notice my res wasn't topped off so I stopped to add some water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Moar Pics


Green coolant, plexi CSQ, tidy...


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Green coolant, plexi CSQ, tidy...


lol thanks, I feel like this every time I go to take pictures of my machine:


----------



## Hokies83

PCI-E cables get on my Nerves An hr of fooling with them and this is what i have....

I have to " Layer them" so they look uniform ... Which anybody who has worked with the Mod Right UV cables knows they are a real PITA...

But im open to suggestions on there placement...




Pretty much the goal is only the top cards PCI-E cables are shown covering up the bottom 2...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> lol thanks, I feel like this every time I go to take pictures of my machine:


have you played around with the exposure?
should look at this Thread

alot of people with better photo result after reading that

i'm such a sissy for green coolant man.....


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> have you played around with the exposure?
> should look at this Thread
> 
> alot of people with better photo result after reading that
> 
> i'm such a sissy for green coolant man.....


Someday I'll pony up and buy a camera that actually has such settings, my bargain bin Sony isn't the one though. I haven't had the desire to spend any money on it after I lost $2000 worth of D3000 and lenses to salt water a couple years ago.


----------



## Hits9Nine




----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Snip


Holy ssd's batman!


----------



## Hits9Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Holy ssd's batman!


It's a little overboard, but well worth it.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> Loving that R4 and the AC blocks, really cool that you fit all that in there.


Thanks, I'm lovin' it too


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Holy ssd's batman!










Thought the same


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> PCI-E cables get on my Nerves An hr of fooling with them and this is what i have....
> 
> I have to " Layer them" so they look uniform ... Which anybody who has worked with the Mod Right UV cables knows they are a real PITA...
> 
> But im open to suggestions on there placement...
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much the goal is only the top cards PCI-E cables are shown covering up the bottom 2...


I personally like the way your running the GPU cables, when I get home and add my 3rd GPU I will run my cables the same


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Someday I'll pony up and buy a camera that actually has such settings, my bargain bin Sony isn't the one though. I haven't had the desire to spend any money on it after I lost $2000 worth of D3000 and lenses to salt water a couple years ago.


Haha you don't need a fancy camera to take good pictures. Follow the guide that jokrik linked you.

*edit* just read you don't have settings . Also helps if you can do a self-timer shot. I use a shirt or some piece of cloth to balance the camera on something as well









Here are some I took with my 7 year old 5 megapixel Canon










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Is there much a performance or sound difference running fans in Push? or Pull?

Is the static pressure rating of a fan for the air off side or air on side? Another words, is the ability the fan has to push air past resistance, or is it the ability to draw through that resistance.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is there much a performance or sound difference running fans in Push? or Pull?
> 
> Is the static pressure rating of a fan for the air off side or air on side? Another words, is the ability the fan has to push air past resistance, or is it the ability to draw through that resistance.


Static pressure is measured by 'blocking' the air going out of the fan. The pressure that's building up behind the fan (so air-out) is the static pressure mentioned in all the specs.

Whether or not a fan performs better in push or pull really depends on the type of fan you have. As a general guideline you can assume all fans work well in push, but not all fans like working in pull (like the noiseblocker eLoop fans, these will sound like a massive turbine in pull) So sound-wise there could be a difference between push and pull, performance wise not so much.


----------



## pc-illiterate

According to martin low rpm fans work best in pull while high rpm fans in push. Medium speed fans dont care if they push or pull. Still best is push and pull.


----------



## khemist




----------



## _REAPER_

^^ NICE Build. I like the color of the fluid.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> To all the old school water coolers out there, or any who have used T line fill ports before, how hard is it to fill a loop and get the air out using a T line res.?
> 
> Also is there and rules to how and where they should be fitted? Are they just a reversal of a drain line? ie. highest point of system.


Someone said "Its slower filling by t-line and its a pain to bleed with" .. Let me tell you, a full B$. anyway, its awesome option! I had a t-line res, and filled/bleed quickly for less 2-4hours without issues. it depends on pump's speed, Radiator size and tube's ID size.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*


Sexy rig!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> To all the old school water coolers out there, or any who have used T line fill ports before, how hard is it to fill a loop and get the air out using a T line res.?
> 
> Also is there and rules to how and where they should be fitted? Are they just a reversal of a drain line? ie. highest point of system.
> 
> 
> 
> Someone said "Its slower filling by t-line and its a pain to bleed with" .. Let me tell you, a full B$. anyway, its awesome option! I had a t-line res, and filled/bleed quickly for less 2-4hours without issues. it depends on pump's speed, Radiator size and tube's ID size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sexy rig!
Click to expand...

How is drip feeding a low cc tube going to be faster than a res? Or bleeding when the tube is not part of the flow path?
I too have run a t line and found it to be a pain to fill and bleed.
What might have worked for you may not apply to all,so its not as you put it 'BS'
Bear in mind most res setups bleed within 15 mins...


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Haha you don't need a fancy camera to take good pictures. Follow the guide that jokrik linked you.
> 
> *edit* just read you don't have settings . Also helps if you can do a self-timer shot. I use a shirt or some piece of cloth to balance the camera on something as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some I took with my 7 year old 5 megapixel Canon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! Its not the fanciness of it, its literally broken. I dropped it and some parts came out of the telescoping lens area, now it had a very very hard time focusing on anything. Sometimes I have to grab the lens and jiggle it with my fingers to get it to go.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*


If I may, I think I'd look even cleaner with an acrylic/metal plate covering the side of the bays!


----------



## Caples

To any of you who use 7970 Lightnings, are there any good blocks for them other than the one EK makes? I can't stand how it looks with all those indented circles on the block.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caples*
> 
> To any of you who use 7970 Lightnings, are there any good blocks for them other than the one EK makes? I can't stand how it looks with all those indented circles on the block.


No. And the circles look way better in person.


----------



## jomama22

Delete


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> If I may, I think I'd look even cleaner with an acrylic/metal plate covering the side of the bays!


No doubt but i can't be bothered man eh?.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> If I may, I think I'd look even cleaner with an acrylic/metal plate covering the side of the bays!


This

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> No doubt but i can't be bothered man eh?.


Bummer


----------



## Foolsmasher

Hey guys, updated my rig. Posted over in TJ 07 club and thought I'd share here as well!











Don't mind my ghetto tape job here.







I need to find a better solution soon


----------



## Foolsmasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caples*
> 
> To any of you who use 7970 Lightnings, are there any good blocks for them other than the one EK makes? I can't stand how it looks with all those indented circles on the block.


Funny you would worry about the circles to me, they look fantastic on that block.

The real issue is the Lightning card itself and the awful blue LED's, + the cheap plastic "GPU Reactor" on the back of the card. I purchased some Lightdims blackout film and put them over the blue led's under the backplate.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foolsmasher*
> 
> Hey guys, updated my rig. Posted over in TJ 07 club and thought I'd share here as well!


Clean! If I may, as stated before







, It would look even cleaner with an plate to cover the side of the bays. Plus I'd remove them center stickers on those NB, I bet it would look even better.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I do like an 07....


----------



## IT Diva

Thought you guys might like to see how my Gullwing side window has progressed;

It's in HD, so the detail is pretty good in full screen mode.

Darlene


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought you guys might like to see how my Gullwing side window has progressed;
> 
> It's in HD, so the detail is pretty good in full screen mode.
> 
> Darlene


Crikey! When can I move in?


----------



## azrael36

OK so I uploaded some photos yesterday to show my Antec Kuhler 920. I was already aware that the cable management was non existent before I uploaded the pics. I received some feedback with some tips and pointers to help clean up the mess so I thought that I would upload what I have after ~7 hours of trying to straighten out the rats nest. I think it is a 100% improvement, wondering what y'all think of it?
Before:

After:






How'd I do? Any other tips or tricks? There are no cable routing holes cut in the mobo tray and I'm selling this case shortly so I don't want to cut on it.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought you guys might like to see how my Gullwing side window has progressed;
> 
> It's in HD, so the detail is pretty good in full screen mode.
> 
> Darlene


WoW!! What Components are going in that Train Carriage Sized Rig? To me thats definitely a showroom case. LOOK At the side panel! Robotics up in here


----------



## SortOfGrim

Does anybody know if I can use two 4-pin pwm cables (using an y-splitter) on one mobo header?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Does anybody know if I can use two 4-pin pwm cables (using an y-splitter) on one mobo header?


yes you can


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you are doing this like I think you are,then use a bulkhead fitting with a 90 on the outside leading to a straight run on the inside.
> A few 90s in a loop is fine,just don't go over board on them is my advice.


Yep got ya, thanks BN, I may get one of those bitspower Q blocks and have a drainage port on it also.

Side not:e: These kit videos on youtube are a bit deceiving at first view because you can get everything separately, and that allow you to get the right stuff because some of the kits don't have the top to the res that you want and things like that.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foolsmasher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Caples*
> 
> To any of you who use 7970 Lightnings, are there any good blocks for them other than the one EK makes? I can't stand how it looks with all those indented circles on the block.
> 
> 
> 
> Funny you would worry about the circles to me, they look fantastic on that block.
> 
> The real issue is the Lightning card itself and the awful blue LED's, + the cheap plastic "GPU Reactor" on the back of the card. I purchased some Lightdims blackout film and put them over the blue led's under the backplate.
Click to expand...

Do you have some pics of this? I'm curious how this turned out as I'm really not a fan of the LEDs either.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> OK so I uploaded some photos yesterday to show my Antec Kuhler 920. I was already aware that the cable management was non existent before I uploaded the pics. I received some feedback with some tips and pointers to help clean up the mess so I thought that I would upload what I have after ~7 hours of trying to straighten out the rats nest. I think it is a 100% improvement, wondering what y'all think of it?
> 
> How'd I do? Any other tips or tricks? There are no cable routing holes cut in the mobo tray and I'm selling this case shortly so I don't want to cut on it.


Yeah - 100% improvement!!! Feels good too right?


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Does anybody know if I can use two 4-pin pwm cables (using an y-splitter) on one mobo header?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yes you can


Wouln't that depend on the wattage of that mobo header and the equipment you want to have wired to it?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Does anybody know if I can use two 4-pin pwm cables (using an y-splitter) on one mobo header?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yes you can
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wouln't that depend on the wattage of that mobo header and the equipment you want to have wired to it?
Click to expand...

Yes it does. do not put say a pump on it, you will have a meltdown.


----------



## pc-illiterate

but 12 watt worth of fans shouldnt be any problem at all.
2 fans with an amp rating of .45amps = 10.8 watt


----------



## azrael36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah - 100% improvement!!! Feels good too right?


Honestly, YES!!! It really does, I feel like I accomplished a good thing for my computer today, and it looks pretty darn good if I say so myself.


----------



## Dzuks

So more pics.


----------



## MusicalPulse

Would you guys recommend http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553012 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426024 or the Corsair SP series for a radiator?


----------



## Lazy Bear

You'd be better off with Coolermaster Sickle Flow fans in blue.

Both those fans have poor static pressure.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> You'd be better off with Coolermaster Sickle Flow fans in blue.
> 
> Both those fans have poor static pressure.


Many others here at OCN will disagree, the Gelid are actually quite decent.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> You'd be better off with Coolermaster Sickle Flow fans in blue.
> 
> Both those fans have poor static pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> Many others here at OCN will disagree, the Gelid are actually quite decent.
Click to expand...

You had the Corsair SP series as an option that does not have LED's, so I would offer another option.
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur%20(R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)



3.53 mmH²O static pressure and 5dB quieter than the SP series. I changed my Cougars out for these and they really move a lot of air through a rad.
Barometric ball bearing and removable blades.
Just an option.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Would you guys recommend http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553012 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426024 or the Corsair SP series for a radiator?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8410/fan-518/Noiseblocker_NB-Multiframe_M12-S3HS_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Fan_-_1800_RPM_-_27_dBA.html?tl=g36c15s60

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1850_RPM_D1225C12B5AP-15_Hot_Item_.html?tl=g36c15s60


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Many others here at OCN will disagree, the Gelid are actually quite decent.


Yeah, I saw other OCN users using the Gelid's are they look very nice. However, they are quite expensive, so if they aren't that much better than other fans then they probably are not worth it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> You had the Corsair SP series as an option that does not have LED's, so I would offer another option.
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur%20(R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)
> 
> 
> 
> 3.53 mmH²O static pressure and 5dB quieter than the SP series. I changed my Cougars out for these and they really move a lot of air through a rad.
> Barometric ball bearing and removable blades.
> Just an option.


Thanks! I'll look into that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8410/fan-518/Noiseblocker_NB-Multiframe_M12-S3HS_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Fan_-_1800_RPM_-_27_dBA.html?tl=g36c15s60
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1850_RPM_D1225C12B5AP-15_Hot_Item_.html?tl=g36c15s60


I would prefer fans with LEDs if possible D:


----------



## Hokies83

Not much going for rad fans with Leds but eh XD

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12122/fan-791/Silverstone_Air_Penetrator_AP121-RL_120_x_120_x_25mm_Fan_-_Red_LED_SST-AP121-RL.html?tl=g36c331s518#blank


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Does anybody know if I can use two 4-pin pwm cables (using an y-splitter) on one mobo header?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yes you can
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Wouln't that depend on the wattage of that mobo header and the equipment you want to have wired to it?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yes it does. do not put say a pump on it, you will have a meltdown.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Bummer, cause that's exactly what I intended to do.

So how do I control the second mcp-35x pump now? Will any of the other headers on the mobo (Asus Maximus IV Gene-z) work?
Or is there a fan controller that can control a 4-pin pwm cable?
**EDIT* error..can't compute.. "4-pin" cable is only 2 pin to control the speed of pump, not the power.*


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Does anybody know if I can use two 4-pin pwm cables (using an y-splitter) on one mobo header?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yes you can
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Wouln't that depend on the wattage of that mobo header and the equipment you want to have wired to it?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yes it does. do not put say a pump on it, you will have a meltdown.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bummer, cause that's exactly what I intended to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So how do I control the second mcp-35x pump now? Will any of the other headers on the mobo (Asus Maximus IV Gene-z) work?
> 
> Or is there a fan controller that can control a 4-pin pwm cable?
Click to expand...



There are cheaper models, but you get the idea. I have three VPP-655's in my system nd they have speed control, but I am getting on of these (similar) for exterior control.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13915/ex-pmp-143/Koolance_CTR-SPD12X2_Dual_12V_Pump_Controller.html?tl=g30c107s156


----------



## King4x4

MCP35x is powered by a normal 4-pin PSU cable and there is another PWM cable coming out from it to the mobo.

Meaning that the pump is not powered by the motherboard.

Meaning you can use a PWM splitter and only the pwm signal and response will be used. You can have as many as you want pumps connected that way cause all of them will be powered through the PSU directly.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> MCP35x is powered by a normal 4-pin PSU cable and there is another PWM cable coming out from it to the mobo.
> 
> Meaning that the pump is not powered by the motherboard.
> 
> Meaning you can use a PWM splitter and only the pwm signal and response will be used. You can have as many as you want pumps connected that way cause all of them will be powered through the PSU directly.


I think/thought he was talking about powering the pump through the MB.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I think/thought he was talking about powering the pump through the MB.


no, I got that wrong.. too much







& lack of sleep

I just noticed it's only a pwm connector (minus the power)

man, I feel stupid..mea culpa


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I think/thought he was talking about powering the pump through the MB.
> 
> 
> 
> no, I got that wrong.. too much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & lack of sleep
> 
> I just noticed it's only a pwm connector (minus the power)
> 
> man, I feel stupid..mea culpa
Click to expand...

Lot of that going around , I know the feeling


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Got a bunch of new pics after installing my Titans and re-configuring the loop:














Much happier with my new coolant color and my temps in series are far lower than they were on my 7970's in parallel (using EK's FC Bridge).Did I mention that these Titans are BEAST!









Btw, I plan on replacing all the front 5.25 bay covers with a piece of smoked plexi but its not finished yet...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Got a bunch of new pics after installing my Titans and re-configuring the loop:
> 
> 
> 
> Much happier with my new coolant color and my temps in series are far lower than they were on my 7970's in parallel (using EK's FC Bridge).Did I mention that these Titans are BEAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I plan on replacing all the front 5.25 bay covers with a piece of smoked plexi but its not finished yet...


----------



## PCModderMike

Dem Titans.








Nice job Majin SSJ Eric


----------



## KaRLiToS

Amazing Rig Eric


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Nice job Majin.

I am a firm believer of serial over parallel,glad its working for you too.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Got a bunch of new pics after installing my Titans and re-configuring the loop:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much happier with my new coolant color and my temps in series are far lower than they were on my 7970's in parallel (using EK's FC Bridge).Did I mention that these Titans are BEAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I plan on replacing all the front 5.25 bay covers with a piece of smoked plexi but its not finished yet...


Lovely


----------



## SeekerZA

Last 3 people that commented and Majin SSJ Eric with those Titans SMASHING its way through. . My inspiration to Watercooling.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Got a bunch of new pics after installing my Titans and re-configuring the loop:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much happier with my new coolant color and my temps in series are far lower than they were on my 7970's in parallel (using EK's FC Bridge).Did I mention that these Titans are BEAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I plan on replacing all the front 5.25 bay covers with a piece of smoked plexi but its not finished yet...


Awesome build, almost Titanic... (i had to pun this







)

but i think, and this is purely because of MY TASTE and TO MY TASTE ONLY, the red LED strips are a bit excessive. personally i would have opted for a single white strips, but then again this is your build and your style and i bet you like it that way. (and the pics probably don't do justice to it when compared to in person impression)


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Awesome build, almost Titanic... (i had to pun this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> but i think, and this is purely because of MY TASTE and TO MY TASTE ONLY, the red LED strips are a bit excessive. personally i would have opted for a single white strips, but then again this is your build and your style and i bet you like it that way. (and the pics probably don't do justice to it when compared to in person impression)


I actually agree with you here ... Way to much red ...

the Rig is absolutely amazing and SLI Titans is drool worth for sure ... ... but if you added a white LED strip instead it would illuminate the case clearer and the red accents would stand out more ...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Way ahead of you guys. Trying to decide between white ccfl or LEDs. I hate how there is no contrast with the red LEDs.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Would you guys recommend http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553012 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426024 or the Corsair SP series for a radiator?


Gentle Typhoon AP-29 (3000 RPM, PWM-moddable). Sorry, but I can't recommend "leds" on fans. I prefer paying more for a ledless fan and be sure that the product is built for the job it's supposed to do, not for the flashy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> *You'd be better off with Coolermaster Sickle Flow fans* in blue.
> 
> Both those fans have poor static pressure.


I bought 2 sickleflow and I found them to be garbage and having very annoying bearing whine... replaced them with 140mm cougar (for case fans)

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Awesome build, almost Titanic... (i had to pun this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> but i think, and this is purely because of MY TASTE and TO MY TASTE ONLY, *the red LED strips are a bit excessive. personally i would have opted for a single white strips,* but then again this is your build and your style and i bet you like it that way. (and the pics probably don't do justice to it when compared to in person impression)


I have to agree here. The excessive amount of colored light just ruins your carefully planned(or not, nonetheless nice) color scheme. *It looks great under natural light!*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Way ahead of you guys. Trying to decide between white ccfl or LEDs. I hate how there is no contrast with the red LEDs.


LEDs. Keep it Simple.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Way ahead of you guys. Trying to decide between white ccfl or LEDs. I hate how there is no contrast with the red LEDs.


Definitely LED's ... Easier to mount and much brighter (from my experience) and they last longer ... I have had a ton of CCFLs die on me


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Got a bunch of new pics after installing my Titans and re-configuring the loop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much hap
> 
> 
> new coolant color and my temps in series are far lower than they were on my 7970's in parallel (using EK's FC Bridge).Did I mention that these Titans are BEAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I plan on replacing all the front 5.25 bay covers with a piece of smoked plexi but its not finished yet...


Man that looks sweet, Tj and Titans I like that combo. +1


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> You had the Corsair SP series as an option that does not have LED's, so I would offer another option.
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur%20(R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)
> 
> 
> 
> 3.53 mmH²O static pressure and 5dB quieter than the SP series. I changed my Cougars out for these and they really move a lot of air through a rad.
> Barometric ball bearing and removable blades.
> Just an option.


I have always found that these fans make a lot of noise and don't move a lot of air through radiators, likely as a result of the holes everywhere on the frame.... They may work decently enough for a very low FPI radiator, but put them on something like an EX or GTX and they just don't move much air at all.
I'm pretty much certain that they were designed for use in free spaces, and not for use as radiator fans.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Way ahead of you guys. Trying to decide between white ccfl or LEDs. I hate how there is no contrast with the red LEDs.


i think that LED strip is a better option because there are many options and variants (some flexlights, corner strips, regular and bright etc)
CCFLs are essentially all the same and most have that bulky baby blue converter.

also, i think that a single strip would be enough but mybe i'm wrong and two would be amazing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I have to agree here. The excessive amount of colored light just ruins your carefully planned(or not, nonetheless nice) color scheme. *It looks great under natural light!*


some builds actually play with red lighting and pull off something great (hard though). usually it requires having black tubing and maybe another shining color but it is rare, difficult and too delicate (i.e. a single addition may ruin it)

on the other hand, red glow components can make a build. (red LED in a block or top or logo etc). This is why i'm extra excited for Majin's build since it essentially has what i plan for. (red coolant, red glow components and white lighting)


----------



## King4x4

Majin... There is always a good contrast between red and white... you just need the right coolant color... My babay!


----------



## wermad

I've had "red" builds and its really hard to get the colors right on picture. even with some great cameras, red can sometimes be shown as a bit....weird...or something like that. In other words, it looks better in person imho.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> You had the Corsair SP series as an option that does not have LED's, so I would offer another option.
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur%20(R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)
> 
> 
> 
> 3.53 mmH²O static pressure and 5dB quieter than the SP series. I changed my Cougars out for these and they really move a lot of air through a rad.
> Barometric ball bearing and removable blades.
> Just an option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always found that these fans make a lot of noise and don't move a lot of air through radiators, likely as a result of the holes everywhere on the frame.... They may work decently enough for a very low FPI radiator, but put them on something like an EX or GTX and they just don't move much air at all.
> I'm pretty much certain that they were designed for use in free spaces, and not for use as radiator fans.
Click to expand...

Actually the holes in the frame aid in the performance and high static pressure. Air is pulled in through the holes in the frame, not 'leaked' adding to the airflow. I have had them on rads from 30mm to 80mm and they pull/push the most air through rads than any 'non delta' fans. The static pressure is very high in comparison to the cougars that everyone raves about (not that they don't deserve it, they are great fans) but the amount of air moved is not even close. when I traded out the Cougar's (2.2mmH²O) for the Excalibur (3.53mmH²O) on my rads the difference was immediately obvious both in the amount of air and temperature, and I use them on high quality rads.
I guess like anything else, the results speak for themselves. and the results are great








Quote:


> I'm pretty much certain that they were designed for use in free spaces, and not for use as radiator fans


Actually thats exactly what they were designed for:

*From the Coolermaster website:*
Quote:


> Excalibur, as the name suggests, is inspired by the legendary sword of King Arthur from the middle ages. The nine massive sword-shaped blades are designed to produce exceptionally high air pressure, which fortify the cooling efficiency when used in dense water cooling radiators or performance heatsinks.


----------



## h2on0

This is my first water cool build. I started with a xspc d5 dual bay res but it started to leak out the warped top. I originally went with blue berry pastel but I switched to gigabyte orange pastel. The theme I guess if there is one is "sunset". I am thinking about purple led's.

I also wanted it to be a bit of a sleeper, so you can't really tell whats inside....

front...



front open....



side panel...



the insides...





This was with the dualbay/blue berry...


----------



## King4x4

Good job! Excellent work for a first time


----------



## macandy13

Personally I can only drool over some of these builds:drool: Just hoping my desk project works out just as well


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Got a bunch of new pics after installing my Titans and re-configuring the loop:
> 
> 
> 
> Much happier with my new coolant color and my temps in series are far lower than they were on my 7970's in parallel (using EK's FC Bridge).Did I mention that these Titans are BEAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I plan on replacing all the front 5.25 bay covers with a piece of smoked plexi but its not finished yet...


For what its worth, my opinion is that the lighting is just right - not too much or too little.
Awesome build, it looks like a Terminator factory.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Majin... There is always a good contrast between red and white... you just need the right coolant color... My babay!


DD cases, always recognizable. love it and i bet that the pic doesn't do any justice to the build compared to in person.
two question:
1) in person, what is the effect of the white light on the blocks with red coolant?
2) what is that red lighting?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've had "red" builds and its really hard to get the colors right on picture. even with some great cameras, red can sometimes be shown as a bit....weird...or something like that. In other words, it looks better in person imho.


i think that applies to every light effect in photos, excluding some cases with white and even then not all. (blue looks like purple, red looks like pink/orange, green usually has the wrong shade and white bleeds out like crazy)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2on0*
> 
> This is my first water cool build. I started with a xspc d5 dual bay res but it started to leak out the warped top. I originally went with blue berry pastel but I switched to gigabyte orange pastel. The theme I guess if there is one is "sunset". I am thinking about purple led's.
> 
> I also wanted it to be a bit of a sleeper, so you can't really tell whats inside....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> front...
> 
> 
> 
> front open....
> 
> 
> 
> side panel...
> 
> 
> 
> the insides...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was with the dualbay/blue berry...


love it







after a few minutes it really does remind me of a sunset. i think that you should get a few LEDs and experiment which is best. (i.e. purple, red, blue, white etc)

and to everyone else:
after watching Linus's video on their new gamin WC build with the H220 in the TJ10 and i noticed a *neat effect* (the glow effect created by an LED fan behind a radiator) and was wondering if you guys and gals have any input on this? is it a good thing to strive for or is it just tacky, bleeds (both into the internals and our eyes) and flushes the whole build with a sea of the chosen color?

since i want to create a stealthy (or at least partially) black with red accents i want to incorporate a few tasteful red glow tones in there and possibly white lighting. it is either the above glow solution or very low powered red LED fans in the front of the rad (which i know is pretty much non existent) or just red bladed fans.


----------



## Atham

Has anyone watercooled a GTX 670 Gigabyte WIndoforce card? What waterblock did you use?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Has anyone watercooled a GTX 670 Gigabyte WIndoforce card? What waterblock did you use?


I believe it uses the 680 reference pcb design.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> DD cases, always recognizable. love it and i bet that the pic doesn't do any justice to the build compared to in person.
> two question:
> 1) in person, what is the effect of the white light on the blocks with red coolant?
> 2) what is that red lighting?
> i think that applies to every light effect in photos, excluding some cases with white and even then not all. (blue looks like purple, red looks like pink/orange, green usually has the wrong shade and white bleeds out like crazy)
> love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after a few minutes it really does remind me of a sunset. i think that you should get a few LEDs and experiment which is best. (i.e. purple, red, blue, white etc)
> 
> and to everyone else:
> *after watching Linus's video on their new gamin WC build with the H220 in the TJ10 and i noticed a neat effect (the glow effect created by an LED fan behind a radiator) and was wondering if you guys and gals have any input on this?* is it a good thing to strive for or is it just tacky, bleeds (both into the internals and our eyes) and flushes the whole build with a sea of the chosen color?
> 
> since i want to create a stealthy (or at least partially) black with red accents i want to incorporate a few tasteful red glow tones in there and possibly white lighting. it is either the above glow solution or very low powered red LED fans in the front of the rad (which i know is pretty much non existent) or just red bladed fans.


You should check out Daniel's Cytotoxic build on Singularity Computer's Youtube channel. He went with an led fan lighting effect similar to what you are talking about in the front which I think turned out magnificent...


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I believe it uses the 680 reference pcb design.


I believe this may help if you don't mind using EK water blocks:

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

or this one might be suitable for your card:

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=691

Hope this helps


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> You should check out Daniel's Cytotoxic build on Singularity Computer's Youtube channel. He went with an led fan lighting effect similar to what you are talking about in the front which I think turned out magnificent...


have already seen it since the planing stage







. in Daniel's build the effect is more towards making a front effect with the smoked plexi rather than a glow effect towards the internals. not to mention he already using strips for that. i'm considering the glowing effect created by a fan that is behind a radiator towards the internals of the build (i.e. through the sides and the rad itself) and how good it might look in a loop.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> DD cases, always recognizable. love it and i bet that the pic doesn't do any justice to the build compared to in person.
> two question:
> 1) in person, what is the effect of the white light on the blocks with red coolant?
> 2) what is that red lighting?


1. I am using some Mayhem X1 with a bit more red dye thrown in for good measure... the lights give it a vein like look.

2. Red Lighting is a combination of NZXT red led strip and my Yate Loon Red Leds.

Fast Edit
Video showing the effect:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> I believe this may help if you don't mind using EK water blocks:
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/
> 
> or this one might be suitable for your card:
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=691
> 
> Hope this helps


That's what I use


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Should be getting all of my SLI Titan benches finished tonight and then start working on single Titan scores tomorrow. Hopefully you guys will check out my W/C 7970 vs Titan showdown when I post the results later this week!


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## K4IKEN

Bummer?


----------



## LayerCakes

Isn't that what saws we're invented for?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Isn't that what saws we're invented for?


You mean lots of fittings?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Isn't that what saws we're invented for?


More like tape measures...


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More like tape measures...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You mean lots of fittings?


Or.. you don't add pointless flow restrictions like HDD blocks


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More like tape measures...
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You mean lots of fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or.. you don't add pointless flow restrictions like HDD blocks
Click to expand...

Or you run separate loops for your mosfet + ram + hdd blocks.

PS it's been done


----------



## minicooper1

I love BP fittings









Inviato dal mio GT-I9100 con Tapatalk 2


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More like tape measures...
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You mean lots of fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or.. you don't add pointless flow restrictions like HDD blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or you run separate loops for your mosfet + ram + hdd blocks.
> 
> PS it's been done
Click to expand...

single loop for CPU 2 VGA RAM MB 2 HD 1 aquaero 2 480.... With 2 laing

Inviato dal mio GT-I9100 con Tapatalk 2


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Or you run separate loops for your mosfet + ram + hdd blocks.
> 
> PS it's been done


I can understand that, if you have a lot of extra rad space and no budget. I'd always rather have another / better GPU or CPU than cold hard drives and RAM.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I can understand that, if you have a lot of extra rad space and no budget. I'd always rather have another / better GPU or CPU than cold hard drives and RAM.


+1,000,000


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> 1. I am using some Mayhem X1 with a bit more red dye thrown in for good measure... the lights give it a vein like look.
> 
> 2. Red Lighting is a combination of NZXT red led strip and my Yate Loon Red Leds.
> 
> Fast Edit
> Video showing the effect:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


thanks for the vid, really does look sick (and i guess that it might look even better in person. i.e. the white lighting effect shouldn't look like half is only white and the other half as it should be)
and what is that dripping sound in the video? it drives me nuts.

didn't realize that you are using red LED fans and strips, they don't cover your loop in a *SEA OF RED* as some builds have.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


HDD blocks, redefining the enthusiast market








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i'm considering the glowing effect created by a fan that is behind a radiator towards the internals of the build (i.e. through the sides and the rad itself) and how good it might look in a loop.


^any suggestions?


----------



## LayerCakes

But even my 10K drive in a really warm case has no problems..


----------



## Canis-X

Ahhh...he wants to WC his HDD's....it's his rig....his vision, let him do what he wants.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I remember reading an article about one of the big corporations, Google or someone, showing that temperatures had no relationship to HDD's failing.

But non the less, this is OCN, so cooling the HDD









Saying that I did see once on the Koolance site a watercooled PSU, It would of been


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I remember reading an article about one of the big corporations, Google or someone, showing that temperatures had no relationship to HDD's failing.
> 
> But non the less, this is OCN, so cooling the HDD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saying that I did see once on the Koolance site a watercooled PSU, It would of been


last time I checked PPCs stop sold a watercooled PSU. That was a while ago though


----------



## Foolsmasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I remember reading an article about one of the big corporations, Google or someone, showing that temperatures had no relationship to HDD's failing.
> 
> But non the less, this is OCN, so cooling the HDD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saying that I did see once on the Koolance site a watercooled PSU, It would of been


I can't remember where I read it now either, but a study was done showing HDD's were MORE likely to fail when ran cold like that. 35C - 45C was the ideal operating temps for the lowest failure rate.

Here it is....

http://static.googleusercontent.com/external_content/untrusted_dlcp/research.google.com/en/us/archive/disk_failures.pdf


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foolsmasher*
> 
> I can't remember where I read it now either, but a study was done showing HDD's were MORE likely to fail when ran cold like that. 35C - 45C was the ideal operating temps for the lowest failure rate.
> 
> Here it is....
> 
> http://static.googleusercontent.com/external_content/untrusted_dlcp/research.google.com/en/us/archive/disk_failures.pdf


They are more likely but if you read the abstract and observe the charts it really doesn't make that much of a difference in a home PC environment - and you're more likely to just upgrade after a failure anyway. Just have backups and then who cares.









The spread on 24C-55C is something like +/- 3% AFR (avg failure rate) - and most of my hard drives without cooling run ~35C - but you're not going to get them below ambient with water with is likely around 24C-25C at the lowest... so probably at most you'd be increasing the likelihood of failure by no more than 2% max. Perhaps your drive fails in week 165 rather than week 168... really not that much of a difference.









Also as they found in that study and a couple of other large ones... drive failures are not consistently linked to a single environmental effect (i.e. it is just as likely for a brand new drive to fail in a given reasonable timeframe as it is for one that's been running for 2 years already) - so basically you are trusting your data to the universe's sense of humor even more than the temperature they're running at.

As an aside - taking apart PSUs (for painting, cable-sleeving, etc...), running multiple reservoirs, creating custom cables or splitters, case modding in general, overclocking, etc... all have a significantly greater potential to destroy or at least significantly shorten the lives of the components affected... but that doesn't mean it doesn't look cool.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


You could having your HDD's standing up on the short sides, and using several 90° or a snake rotary?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

so here's the koolance titan block.
I have a question though.
The black Acetal part of the titan waterblock - would
it be possible to paint (airbrush) that or would putting
paint on the top of the acetal part of the block ruin performance
in any way?..


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> so here's the koolance titan block.
> I have a question though.
> The black Acetal part of the titan waterblock - would
> it be possible to paint (airbrush) that or would putting
> paint on the top of the acetal part of the block ruin performance
> in any way?..


Plastic is an insulator. Painting it would do nothing. Just don't mess up the side that seals.


----------



## REPUBLICOFGAMER

still not done but that is as it sits


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's what I use


I prefer to use this because if there is something I'm not sure about I can just check it against this. It also gives a number of options

I like the plexi blocks, however they haven't released a specific 660 block yet and I don't want to use the 670 block even though it fits


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> I like the plexi blocks, however they haven't released a specific 660 block yet and I don't want to use the 670 block even though it fits


you mean acrylic ? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18039/ex-blc-1393/EK_GeForce_660_GTX_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC660_GTX_-_Nickel_CSQ.html?tl=g30c311s1851


----------



## ginger_nuts

What is people opinions about the following blocks?

I am after thoughts about performance / looks / cost. Keeping in mind I have the EK universal blocks with out the circles. I would also be looking at a coolant colour of say Silver or copper, not to sure yet. And wanting something to match most of my sig rig "My Current Project", which will be going into a new case which is going to either be black or silver (aluminum)

*XSPC Raystorm $79*
*Phobya UC-1 LT $65*
Koolance CPU-380A $75


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you mean acrylic ? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18039/ex-blc-1393/EK_GeForce_660_GTX_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC660_GTX_-_Nickel_CSQ.html?tl=g30c311s1851


Yeah, I'm just used to calling it plexi :L I've checked the compatibility list, but do you think this will also fit the 660 Ti?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What is people opinions about the following blocks?
> 
> I am after thoughts about performance / looks / cost. Keeping in mind I have the EK universal blocks with out the circles. I would also be looking at a coolant colour of say Silver or copper, not to sure yet. And wanting something to match most of my sig rig "My Current Project", which will be going into a new case which is going to either be black or silver (aluminum)
> 
> *XSPC Raystorm $79*
> *Phobya UC-1 LT $65*
> Koolance CPU-380A $75


I love the look of koolance one,
but seeing your rig, I think the XSPC will fit better with the color scheme, and there is no doubt about the performance as well


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Yeah, I'm just used to calling it plexi :L I've checked the compatibility list, but do you think this will also fit the 660 Ti?


dont know. i would just use the 670 block. why wont you?


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> dont know. i would just use the 670 block. why wont you?


I wouldn't mind using it its just it has 670 written on the block :/

guess it's just me being too fussy :L


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> I can understand that, if you have a lot of extra rad space and no budget. I'd always rather have another / better GPU or CPU than cold hard drives and RAM.


In comparison then, why not shave your head and buy nicer jeans since you'd save the money on hair care? Maybe he's more for the aesthetics?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Or you run separate loops for your mosfet + ram + hdd blocks.
> 
> PS it's been done
> 
> 
> 
> I can understand that, if you have a lot of extra rad space and no budget. I'd always rather have another / better GPU or CPU than cold hard drives and RAM.
Click to expand...

PS my friend who did this was running a 3930x and 4x 7970s. When you're watercooling your ram/mosfet in a separate loop ... you already have the best cpu/gpu.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> PS my friend who did this was running a 3930x and 4x 7970s. When you're watercooling your ram/mosfet in a separate loop ... you already have the best cpu/gpu.


I can understand that one, if you're really turning everything up to 11..


----------



## mr one

what is a good mcp 35x top and also im thinking on small tube res so what o should look for?


----------



## natsu2014

This bitspower 80ml res is pretty decent


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> This bitspower 80ml res is pretty decent


This is the res that I want to buy! super sexy!!


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> This bitspower 80ml res is pretty decent


Yeah but i cant find it in aquatuning


----------



## JMatzelle303

Is that res good enough for mini itx build in S3.

Looking to cool my 670 and i7 3770K


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> This is the res that I want to buy! super sexy!!


I'm gonna get it this week and finally finish my FT02 build. So long noisy xspc bayres with pump


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> This bitspower 80ml res is pretty decent


It's very decent. I love BP reservoirs, this is like my 4th one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I use BP res in all my personal rigs,fantastic quality and have a clean,understated look.
Good choice,remember to get the sponge disk for that particular res,it will aid with bleeding massively.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> what is a good mcp 35x top and also im thinking on small tube res so what o should look for?


The best MCP35X Top is the one it comes with....seriously. Unless, of course, you have two; then the MCP35X2 Housing would be the best option


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use BP res in all my personal rigs,fantastic quality and have a clean,understated look.
> Good choice,remember to get the sponge disk for that particular res,it will aid with bleeding massively.


Thanks for the tip. But does one have to buy I separate?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

What is the sponge disk? I have the 150mm BP reservoir and I love it...


----------



## DutchChilles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


Question: What are those fittings to get trough the metal wall?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use BP res in all my personal rigs,fantastic quality and have a clean,understated look.
> Good choice,remember to get the sponge disk for that particular res,it will aid with bleeding massively.


Sponge, no sponge, not a huge difference. Something as small as the 40mm yea I would definitely have the sponge in there. But, beyond that, I've had no issues bleeding if I'm not using a sponge.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's very decent. I love BP reservoirs, this is like my 4th one.


\

That's your running orientation, with the res on top of the pump / pump HS setup?
Permission to steal for my CaseLabs S3 Mercury build?









Thanks - T


----------



## dragam

I have been a lurker for some time! I have done simple water cooling in the past. This time I am going all out, I have started my new build but not even close to being done! When I get some time I will upload pictures of what is completed so far. My question that I have right now is, I have the Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Top V2 on the Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150. I am using the top as the feed in and coming out the bottom. Now since the bottom has two feeds in and an one out, I am going to use the out to feed the rest of the loop. Now what I want to do with the remaining two inlets, is to use one for the Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting and finally the question that I been wanting to ask is can I use the other inlet as a drain for the system, being that it is going to be the lowest part of the loop?....sorry for the long drawn out sentence for one question, but I thought more info would help! I have attached a picture of what I have done with the drain...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> \
> 
> That's your running orientation, with the res on top of the pump / pump HS setup?
> Permission to steal for my CaseLabs S3 Mercury build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


Yes that's the orientation. Have fun with it. A lot of people mount their res on top of the pumps like that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DutchChilles*
> 
> Question: What are those fittings to get trough the metal wall?


They're called "pass throughs", "bulk-heads", and sometimes "fill-ports". its basically designed to attach to a surface and provide a "pass through" for a loop. You simple screw on your fittings to both ends


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use BP res in all my personal rigs,fantastic quality and have a clean,understated look.
> Good choice,remember to get the sponge disk for that particular res,it will aid with bleeding massively.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. But does one have to buy I separate?
Click to expand...

Its not sold with the 250 and 400 red,it maybe bundled with the small one.
Just order one direct from Bitspower? They are cheap..


----------



## PwndN00b

Does anyone have any flow numbers to compare for 1/4 id vs 3/8 id? I ordered all 1/4 stuff but it's been killing me the last few weeks thinking about it. I'm not done my setup yet since I only have a couple days at home between out of town work shifts, but did I waste a few hundred $'s?

Eheim HIPPS pump--->Koolance 680--->Koolance 680--->EX140--->BP dram--->BP cpu--->BP dram--->EX360--->BP 200mm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Does anyone have any flow numbers to compare for 1/4 id vs 3/8 id? I ordered all 1/4 stuff but it's been killing me the last few weeks thinking about it. I'm not done my setup yet since I only have a couple days at home between out of town work shifts, but did I waste a few hundred $'s?
> 
> Eheim HIPPS pump--->Koolance 680--->Koolance 680--->EX140--->BP dram--->BP cpu--->BP dram--->EX360--->BP 200mm


There is no volumetric flow difference,they all drop down to 9mm bore for the 1/4 thread.
Its purely cosmetic until you go below 8mm ID.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love my 1/2 x 3/4 tubing. Perfect size for the TJ11....


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is no volumetric flow difference,they all drop down to 9mm bore for the 1/4 thread.
> Its purely cosmetic until you go below 8mm ID.


Thanks for the info. I was going with 1/4-3/8 to keep the visuals more on the components than the tubing, using the tubing as more of an accent. Now that I have some installed though, I kinda wish I went with 1/2 OD....lol. I'll wait until it's all done though and get some pics and opinions.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is no volumetric flow difference,they all drop down to 9mm bore for the 1/4 thread.
> Its purely cosmetic until you go below 8mm ID.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. I was going with 1/4-3/8 to keep the visuals more on the components than the tubing, using the tubing as more of an accent. Now that I have some installed though, I kinda wish I went with 1/2 OD....lol. I'll wait until it's all done though and get some pics and opinions.
Click to expand...

When I used to use plastic tube I was a big fan of 16/10mm. Nice bend radius and didn't look like sausage tubing.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Should be getting all of my SLI Titan benches finished tonight and then start working on single Titan scores tomorrow. Hopefully you guys will check out my W/C 7970 vs Titan showdown when I post the results later this week!


I hope you're using frame time rather than FPS.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

FRAPS is set to record frame times as well as min/max/avg FPS but I don't know how to graph it...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When I used to use plastic tube I was a big fan of 16/10mm. Nice bend radius and didn't look like sausage tubing.


Qft


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> FRAPS is set to record frame times as well as min/max/avg FPS but I don't know how to graph it...


I can help you with everything. All you need is excel and I can give you all the formulas. Available through Gchat/mumble tonight, tomorrow, and Thursday.

But so you know, FPS is only polled once a second and then averaged as opposed to looking at all of the data. It's an inherently less accurate test because of it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When I used to use plastic tube I was a big fan of 16/10mm. Nice bend radius and didn't look like sausage tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Qft
Click to expand...

We should start the 16/10 fan club Werm.









It just looks right and in scale with the fittings to me.


----------



## d3vour3r

id go the raystorm one. i have one and its great.

79 is a bit exxy, its 59 from pccg

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_879&products_id=18563


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We should start the 16/10 fan club Werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It just looks right and in scale with the fittings to me.


What does that convert to in inches?


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> What does that convert to in inches?


It's about 5/8 to 3/8,

I like 19mm to 12mm myself.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> id go the raystorm one. i have one and its great.
> 
> 79 is a bit exxy, its 59 from pccg
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_879&products_id=18563


I would go to PCCG, except they don't stock the AMD Raystorm or the Aquacomputer Shoggy Sandwhich


----------



## Michalius

Thought I would link this in here. Would be extremely helpful for us modders:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1373004/kickstarter-picsu-pc-controlled-12v-psu


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> It's about 5/8 to 3/8,
> 
> I like 19mm to 12mm myself.


Ah OK, thanks. I'm using 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD on my current build, works perfect for going over 1/2 inch barbs.


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ah OK, thanks. I'm using 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD on my current build, works perfect for going over 1/2 inch barbs.


From what I've seen and heard, the tighter the better lol. I think LinusTechTips on YouTube said that he boils his 5/8in and smaller tubing and stretches them over 1/2in barbs. He gives that a 100% no leak guarantee









And holy crud! I've got a rep....

What do I do with it?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> And holy crud! I've got a rep....
> 
> What do I do with it?


Make it breed


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's very decent. I love BP reservoirs, this is like my 4th one.


I have never seen a PC that I love the look of more. Absolutely phenomenal. Really, I absolutely adore everything about it. Not quite sure why but it really does it for me..

Edit: Direct quote from my girlfriend: _"That's purdy. Very purdy. I want it."_

Looks like I know what to do for her university PC I'm planning.









Or give build her a cheaper system in a spare case I have and save up for another full loop/case...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We should start the 16/10 fan club Werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It just looks right and in scale with the fittings to me.










...

It is a very good compromise for water cooling. Clears most if not all applications with ease and bends very fluidly to give you those curves one might need.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> What does that convert to in inches?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> It's about 5/8 to 3/8,
> 
> I like 19mm to 12mm myself.
Click to expand...

This


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> I have never seen a PC that I love the look of more. Absolutely phenomenal. Really, I absolutely adore everything about it. Not quite sure why but it really does it for me..
> 
> Edit: Direct quote from my girlfriend: _"That's purdy. Very purdy. I want it."_
> 
> Looks like I know what to do for her university PC I'm planning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or give build her a cheaper system in a spare case I have and save up for another full loop/case...


Thanks very much for the compliment! That's a very lucky gal if she is to go off to uni with a system similar to that IMO. What stand up chap you are!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is no thermal difference difference between nickel plated and copper,its purely cosmetic.


This


----------



## SortOfGrim

So still a bit baffled here..


Can I wire the signal wire to the graphics card if I knew the correct positions?



Or should a custom made pcb be better?


----------



## PCModderMike

Baffled about the 4 pin coming off the pump? I have mine plugged into the motherboard. Same pump.


----------



## Yukss

new pics , comments are welcome


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> new pics , comments are welcome


That desk needs tripple monitors!!


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> So still a bit baffled here..
> 
> 
> Can I wire the signal wire to the graphics card if I knew the correct positions?
> 
> 
> 
> Or should a custom made pcb be better?


That 4 pin fan connection is for reading the RPMS (revolutions per minute) of the pump...basically pump speed, through the operating system. That's what I'm thinking. . .


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> That 4 pin fan connection is for reading the RPMS (revolutions per minute) of the pump...basically pump speed, through the operating system. That's what I'm thinking. . .


It is capable of reading the speed of the pump. But it's primarily used to let the motherboard set the speed of the pump. I have mine running at 25 percent on idle, and as temps increase, the motherboard increases the speed of the pump.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> new pics , comments are welcome


What tubing are you using? I like that blue color. I had some "blue" primochill but it really looked purple..


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> What tubing are you using? I like that blue color. I had some "blue" primochill but it really looked purple..


That's because primochill uses UV colors. I have the blue and it does indeed look purple. Put a UV light or look at it in the sun and it will be blue like the picture you quoted.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It is capable of reading the speed of the pump. But it's primarily used to let the motherboard set the speed of the pump. I have mine running at 25 percent on idle, and as temps increase, the motherboard increases the speed of the pump.


Question, when you do something like that ie at certain load pump speed increase
Doesnt it shorten the lifespan of the pump, its like push/pulling the performance of the pump isnt it?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Question, when you do something like that ie at certain load pump speed increase
> Doesnt it shorten the lifespan of the pump, its like push/pulling the performance of the pump isnt it?


No not really. If anything, it increases the life of the pump because it's not running full blast at 100% all the time.

EDIT: Just in case, I was referencing the post asking where to stick the 4 pin PWM connector from a MCP35X pump....so when I was responding to your post just now, I was speaking specifically of that pump. Not sure this applies to all pumps in general.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> No not really. If anything, it increases the life of the pump because it's not running full blast at 100% all the time.


I missed what pump you are referring to but does it work with a mcp 350? Like can I control the ram's of it using the os?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> I missed what pump you are referring to but does it work with a mcp 350? Like can I control the ram's of it using the os?


The pump I was referencing was the MCP35X. With the 4 pin PWM connector attached to a header on the motherboard, the speed of the pump can be adjusted most commonly through the BIOS settings of the motherboard.

This is a snip from Swiftech's installation guide.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Picked up my smoked plexi panel to use for the front bay covers. Gonna look sweet installed!


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The pump I was referencing was the MCP35X. With the 4 pin PWM connector attached to a header on the motherboard, the speed of the pump can be adjusted most commonly through the BIOS settings of the motherboard.


Hmm I can't recall the connector on the 350 but i know there is either a 3 pin or a 4 pin I just have no idea what it's used for.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Picked up my smoked plexi panel to use for the front bay covers. Gonna look sweet installed!


That's a good looking shot of the rig!
I would have cropped yourself out though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hmm I can't recall the connector on the 350 but i know there is either a 3 pin or a 4 pin I just have no idea what it's used for.


According to their site - http://www.swiftech.com/mcp350.aspx
Quote:


> RPM sensor plugs to 3 pin motherboard fan connectors and reports impeller rotational speed


----------



## golfergolfer

Hmm not sure how I missed that before but I don't think I will be able to control the speed =( what is the opinion on voltage regulators? Like a 12V to 7V step down or something?


----------



## SortOfGrim

I know it plugs into a mobo header, I already have my cpu water cooled with a mcp35x. The thing is I want to use a separate mcp35x for my gpu loop.

I can hook it to mobo but that only reads cpu/mobo temps NOT gpu temps. I want the pump to be controlled in a way so that when the temp goes up the pump revs up too. Just thinking out loud here


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> I know it plugs into a mobo header, I already have my cpu water cooled with a mcp35x. The thing is I want to use a separate mcp35x for my gpu loop.
> 
> I can hook it to mobo but that only reads cpu/mobo temps NOT gpu temps. I want the pump to be controlled in a way so that when the temp goes up the pump revs up too. Just thinking out loud here


Well it's rare that the GPU is stressed out by itself while the CPU is just sitting idle. Generally, if you're in a game or benching, both the CPU and GPU are being taxed (as we all know) so why not just plug it into another 4 pin motherboard header? Or use a Y adapter and plug it into the same header as the pump for the CPU loop? As the CPU temp rises along with the GPU, it will ramp up the pump plenty enough just to be used for a GPU loop.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's a good looking shot of the rig!
> I would have cropped yourself out though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to their site - http://www.swiftech.com/mcp350.aspx


What do you mean? My image adds character to the shot!


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well it's rare that the GPU is stressed out by itself while the CPU is just sitting idle. Generally, if you're in a game or benching, both the CPU and GPU are being taxed (as we all know) so why not just plug it into another 4 pin motherboard header? Or use a Y adapter and plug it into the same header as the pump for the CPU loop? As the CPU temp rises along with the GPU, it will ramp up the pump plenty enough just to be used for a GPU loop.


Thanks! I will do that.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> What do you mean? My image adds character to the shot!


You're right!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Thanks! I will do that.


Cool. I was just thinking out loud myself.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> What tubing are you using? I like that blue color. I had some "blue" primochill but it really looked purple..


Hi, its primochill blue 7/16
Quote:


> That desk needs tripple monitors!!


Jaja you think so?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought you guys might like to see how my Gullwing side window has progressed;
> 
> It's in HD, so the detail is pretty good in full screen mode.
> 
> Darlene


Damn girl, you have got some mad skills. This is one of the coolest mods I have seen to date.


----------



## sebar

Sorry for the double post. I was catching up with the 200 post since my last visit.









I am using the XSPC Acetal Top for Laing DDC. It is good quality and looks good. My only complaint is that the side of the pump top with the outlet is cut at an angle. This made plumbing my system a little difficult.


----------



## itz.clint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A little update:
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/013bew.jpg/


Wow, bet that has some flow restrictions with all those bends.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Picked up my smoked plexi panel to use for the front bay covers. Gonna look sweet installed!


That is looking great,
But if I my make a suggestion, emblems and stickers just don't look good on a case like this. The Silverstone one maybe, but the ROG and Intel ones just don't look right.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol, are you kidding me?!?! I paid $1k for that Extreme Edition sticker, you better believe its going on the rig!!!









http://youtu.be/tk8C-38WVH0?t=6m15s


----------



## Hanoverfist

Just In...


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, are you kidding me?!?! I paid $1k for that Extreme Edition sticker, you better believe its going on the rig!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://youtu.be/tk8C-38WVH0?t=6m15s


lol, I understand. Love the video!!!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just In...


Obviously a man of discriminating tastes


----------



## Hanoverfist

Red1776.. So your the one causing all the Out of Stocks.. LOL!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Red1776.. So your the one causing all the Out of Stocks.. LOL!


Not me!







My back plates re are on back-order. Joe @ FrozenCPU said two weeks out.
...hey wait, did they have them when you ordered?

Hey did you get the bridge? and if so, what do you think of it?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Yep.. Back plates too. Crystal Links Instead of the Bridge.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yep.. Back plates too. Crystal Links Instead of the Bridge.


Which begs the question, where are mine?









Make sure you post pics would ya?


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Got a bunch of new pics after installing my Titans and re-configuring the loop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much happier with my new coolant color and my temps in series are far lower than they were on my 7970's in parallel (using EK's FC Bridge).Did I mention that these Titans are BEAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I plan on replacing all the front 5.25 bay covers with a piece of smoked plexi but its not finished yet...






I god. I hate you, by my whole wallet! Geez. I envy you x1000!
Must... Resist... Jelly... MONSTER!.

N1c3 s3t4p. "Jizz"


----------



## Hogwasher

CPU water cooled and overclocked to 4.8Ghz. Now need GPU water blocks then I'll finally be close to done


----------



## ledzepp3

Going through this thread, I can feel my wallet dying.. So I'm gonna order a CaseLabs case soon







might as well kill my wallet too ;D


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> CPU water cooled and overclocked to 4.8Ghz. Now need GPU water blocks then I'll finally be close to done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice rig. Very clean and simple. Good short tubing runs. Hopefully you have a side panel with fans on it for the gpus to breath!


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

http://www.overclock.net/t/1371900/plans-for-new-rad-and-new-pump/20

any advice from you experienced water coolers?


----------



## Mikecdm

Swapped out the cooling on my daily. A few pics of it, nothing fancy.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We should start the 16/10 fan club Werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It just looks right and in scale with the fittings to me.


I agree with that 110%... of course I use stupid measurements for it but that's because I live in the land of no metrics.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> I have never seen a PC that I love the look of more. Absolutely phenomenal. Really, I absolutely adore everything about it. Not quite sure why but it really does it for me..
> 
> Edit: Direct quote from my girlfriend: _"That's purdy. Very purdy. I want it."_
> 
> Looks like I know what to do for her university PC I'm planning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or give build her a cheaper system in a spare case I have and save up for another full loop/case...


Honestly I think it is the bends in the tubing that make this build amazing well that is what I like the most


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, are you kidding me?!?! I paid $1k for that Extreme Edition sticker, you better believe its going on the rig!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://youtu.be/tk8C-38WVH0?t=6m15s


I put my stickers on my Headphone holder lol but I completely understand about the use of the sticker


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> CPU water cooled and overclocked to 4.8Ghz. Now need GPU water blocks then I'll finally be close to done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice loop. Can you fit a 240 in the top?


----------



## Dyceskynes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> 
> 
> That's your running orientation, with the res on top of the pump / pump HS setup?
> Permission to steal for my CaseLabs S3 Mercury build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


I ran my res like that for a while with the aqua tube but had a miserable time getting the air out. So instead I added a fill tube and ran my res full.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, are you kidding me?!?! I paid $1k for that Extreme Edition sticker, you better believe its going on the rig!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://youtu.be/tk8C-38WVH0?t=6m15s


I lost mine


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Nice loop. Can you fit a 240 in the top?


yeah I should be able to. Plan on moving the rx240 to the top and buying a super thick 240 for the front since there is so much room up front.

Just thought it looked good like this for know until funds become available to finish the build









Going to need another Rad for sure If I plan on cooling the GPUs


----------



## InchuzaBANGKOK




----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyceskynes*
> 
> I ran my res like that for a while with the aqua tube but had a miserable time getting the air out. So instead I added a fill tube and ran my res full.


The system was being filled in that pic, and it's not full. I had a great time getting the air out.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The system was being filled in that pic, and it's not full. I had a great time getting the air out.


I personally always fill the res full, turn on the pumps, refill to full again, tip my computer flat on each side and shake it and just leave the pumps overnight. Gets 99% of the air out.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The system was being filled in that pic, and it's not full. I had a great time getting the air out.


LoL i feel you there...

My 250ML res had avery slow leak " frozenQ helix" Had to drain half the water out of the systems 3 times and keep putting more teflon tape..

3rd time i was like Grr this time or i give up .. i put so much teflon i could barely screw the nut down on it... so far 18hrs no leaks...


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought you guys might like to see how my Gullwing side window has progressed;
> 
> It's in HD, so the detail is pretty good in full screen mode.
> 
> Darlene


Awesomeness O.....O


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> I personally always fill the res full, turn on the pumps, refill to full again, tip my computer flat on each side and shake it and just leave the pumps overnight. Gets 99% of the air out.


That's what I do too bud, that's the most common practice.

EDIT: Well except for leaving it on it's side overnight, if that's what you're saying. But filling the res, turn pump on, let it drain, pump off, fill res again, pump on, let it drain....you get the point. Shake to bleed, yes. Works well for me too.


----------



## snef

my new rig
Snef's Extremmme Red Demon

still WIP


----------



## Dyceskynes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's what I do too bud, that's the most common practice.
> 
> EDIT: Well except for leaving it on it's side overnight, if that's what you're saying. But filling the res, turn pump on, let it drain, pump off, fill res again, pump on, let it drain....you get the point. Shake to bleed, yes. Works well for me too.


How did you keep the air bubbles coming from your aqua pipe from being sucked into the intake?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyceskynes*
> 
> How did you keep the air bubbles coming from your aqua pipe from being sucked into the intake?


Is that a problem you're experiencing? I just shake the rig as it's bleeding, and because they're air bubbles, of course they just float to the top and one of the fill ports on the top of the res is left open and the air escapes.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> my new rig
> Snef's Extremmme Red Demon
> 
> still WIP


hooooly.............!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> my new rig
> Snef's Extremmme Red Demon
> 
> still WIP
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hooooly is right! Although a WIP, looking great so far.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That's a beauty Snef!


----------



## Dyceskynes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Is that a problem you're experiencing? I just shake the rig as it's bleeding, and because they're air bubbles, of course they just float to the top and one of the fill ports on the top of the res is left open and the air escapes.


I had that issue before the tube was removed, because the res is so short they 30% would get sucked into the pump before getting the chance to rise. Maybe I was too impatient


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> CPU water cooled and overclocked to 4.8Ghz. Now need GPU water blocks then I'll finally be close to done


Perfect loop!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyceskynes*
> 
> I had that issue before the tube was removed, because the res is so short they 30% would get sucked into the pump before getting the chance to rise. Maybe I was too impatient


Maybe








I've had a 250mm BP res, a 100mm EK res, and two of these 80mm BP reservoirs. Understandably because the 250 was so large, no worries about air bubbles getting sucked right back into the intake at the bottom of the res....but in the 100 and both 80's from previous loops, bleeding is not a bad experience for me and doesn't take very long.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's very decent. I love BP reservoirs, this is like my 4th one.


Love the res, first cylinder res. I've used and looks awesome sauce. Nice job on the build bud. The size of the res is just perfect. Really clean and the barbs with the coolant looks especially nice. I have a soft spot for water cooling rigs with barbs.







More Pics! Are you going to add LED's to the cpu block?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Love the res, first cylinder res. I've used and looks awesome sauce. Nice job on the build bud. The size of the res is just perfect. Really clean and the barbs with the coolant looks especially nice. I have a soft spot for water cooling rigs with barbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics! Are you going to add LED's to the cpu block?


Thanks man!
Oh yea that's right, did you have many issues with bleeding your system using that 80mm res I sold you?
Yea I'm digging the barbs a lot too, you've got me hooked on them!

LEDs in the block??


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thanks man!
> Oh yea that's right, did you have many issues with bleeding your system using that 80mm res I sold you?
> Yea I'm digging the barbs a lot too, you've got me hooked on them!
> 
> LEDs in the block??


Fill that case big case needs big stuff!

On another note you gonna get a top or a ped for that bad boy?

I wanted a Th10 so bad.. but could not pass up Mountain Mod Asension for 230$ shipped =/


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's what I do too bud, that's the most common practice.
> 
> EDIT: Well except for leaving it on it's side overnight, if that's what you're saying. But filling the res, turn pump on, let it drain, pump off, fill res again, pump on, let it drain....you get the point. Shake to bleed, yes. Works well for me too.


Sorry, wasn't trying to seem condescending. No I don't leave it on its side over night, though if its sealed up tight it couldn't be any more dangerous.


----------



## nicoliani

> *Laing DDC-pump 12V DDC-1Plus inkl. Phobya Laing DDC* an already quite pump made more silent with an *Alphacool Laing DDC-SilentBox.*










> *Alphacool Laing DDC-SilentBox* modded with a noise reduction mat.










> *AcoustiFeet* for vibration absorption.



> Good to go.


----------



## driftingforlife

Ummmm. no air flow = dead pump very quickly. I thought DDC need air for cooling unlike the D5?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Fill that case big case needs big stuff!
> 
> On another note you gonna get a top or a ped for that bad boy?
> 
> I wanted a Th10 so bad.. but could not pass up Mountain Mod Asension for 230$ shipped =/


Haha yea it's pretty big (for a mATX case), but not enormous like most CaseLabs are, so I think it's filled up pretty good so far. Here is it next to my FT03 for scale.

I'm not sure if they make a pedestal for the SM5, definitely do for the SM8, I'm now curious about that! Could be a future upgrade.








Also nice score on a 230 dollar MM case!


----------



## nicoliani

I have been testing it, so far so good. There's also tests that have been made, that show just a slight 1-3 Celsius temp increase inside this box.


----------



## jjpctech

that pump will die very quickly.... They can reach 70c with airflow getting to them anyway, Now block all that off you will hit 100C easy and BOOM


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thanks man!
> Oh yea that's right, did you have many issues with bleeding your system using that 80mm res I sold you?
> Yea I'm digging the barbs a lot too, you've got me hooked on them!
> 
> LEDs in the block??


Did a 24hr leak test and bubbles were still there. shook it up a bit and let it run for a while longer with one of the ports open, and that helped out a lot. The bubbles go away with time. Just peaked in my rig and no bubbles to be seen. Oh you know what LED's I'm talking about!!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjpctech*
> 
> that pump will die very quickly.... They can reach 70c with airflow getting to them anyway, Now block all that off you will hit 100C easy and BOOM


Yeah, I'm not a really pump savvy guy yet, but this is not a smooth move, IMO... Those things are not known for staying cool on their own, unless we refer to submerged units, which this isn't...
I dunno... I'm getting an MCP35X, and I'm getting the heatsink WITH a fan for it, I'm that worried!









Thanks - T


----------



## wonderwall

^^


----------



## Dzuks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wonderwall*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^






Nice rig... More pics please!!


----------



## JMatzelle303

is this pump any good

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16737/ex-pmp-203/Swiftech_MCP655_Variable_Speed_12v_Water_Pump_w_G14_Thread_Ports_Perfectly_Tapped.html?tl=g30c107s153


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjpctech*
> 
> that pump will die very quickly.... They can reach 70c with airflow getting to them anyway, Now block all that off you will hit 100C easy and BOOM


Water block for water pump?


----------



## Dzuks

Guys, is it worth swapping out a Rasa for a Raystorm?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle303*
> 
> is this pump any good
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16737/ex-pmp-203/Swiftech_MCP655_Variable_Speed_12v_Water_Pump_w_G14_Thread_Ports_Perfectly_Tapped.html?tl=g30c107s153


Yup,a very good pump,one I use extensively

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Guys, is it worth swapping out a Rasa for a Raystorm?


Very much so,the RASA is a bit old and is out performed by most modern blocks.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,a very good pump,one I use extensively
> Very much so,the RASA is a bit old and is out performed by most modern blocks.


I have some trying to sell me a new XSPC Raystorm 240 Kit for 75 bucks. I'll take out the Raystorm and just sell everything else. Thanks!


----------



## kpforce1

Finally caught up with the 600+ posts whew.







Always sooooo many nice rigs and new water coolers in here








Quote:


> *Majin SSJ Eric:*
> 
> Lol, are you kidding me?!?! I paid $1k for that Extreme Edition sticker, you better believe its going on the rig!!!


lol.... aint that the truth. Maybe thats why I decided to do this:


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> my new rig
> Snef's Extremmme Red Demon
> 
> still WIP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build







it already looks like a masterpiece on my book and it isn't even finished








really dig your style. (which TBH i planned for myself something very similar. the hole red glow spots across the build and mainly black with some red touches)

i see you are using the XSPC razor blocks for those 7970's, how are they treating you? how temps are? (dye and VRM)

also checked your log and noticed you have koolance blocks before, why did you switch?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Finally caught up with the 600+ posts whew.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always sooooo many nice rigs and new water coolers in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.... aint that the truth. Maybe thats why I decided to do this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow painting the shroud like that is sexy!








Very interested to see how this works out for ya.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> The best MCP35X Top is the one it comes with....seriously. Unless, of course, you have two; then the MCP35X2 Housing would be the best option


Just saw this answer, sorry but i dont have the original top, i brought that pump from one of the members on this forum and it came with xspc res


----------



## DrewWyber

Just created an account and haven't had the time to post specs, but here she is

Edit: Here are the specs. Constructive criticism is welcomed!

Intel Core i7 3770k OC'd to a stable 4.8GHz
Asus Maximus V Formula Z77 Motherboard with watercooled VRM
16gb G.Skill RAM. 1866 9-10-9-27 timings
x2 Asus DCII Nvidia GTX 670 in SLI. Watercooled.
120gb Corsair Force GT3 Boot SSD
1TB WD Caviar Black HDD
1050w Seasonic PSU
Caselabs M8 case
Creative Sound-Blaster Recon 3D sound card
6 channel Sunbeam PWM fan controller
15 Yate Loon Medium Red LED fans.

Water-cooling Components:

*x2* 360mm Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Rads in Push/Pull configuration
Thermaltake Pump
XSPC Raystorm CPU waterblock with custom soldered red LED illumination
250ml Bitspower Tube reservoir
Two nickel plated EK Asus DCII GTX 670 Waterblocks
EK Triple slot SLI Bridge
Monsoon Compression Fittings
10ft of 3/8 ID 5/8 OD Red UV tubing
Antimicrobial Silver Kill Coil


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrewWyber*
> 
> Just created an account and haven't had the time to post specs, but here she is
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Here are the specs. Constructive criticism is welcomed!
> 
> Intel Core i7 3770k OC'd to a stable 4.8GHz
> Asus Maximus V Formula Z77 Motherboard with watercooled VRM
> 16gb G.Skill RAM. 1866 9-10-9-27 timings
> x2 Asus DCII Nvidia GTX 670 in SLI. Watercooled.
> 120gb Corsair Force GT3 Boot SSD
> 1TB WD Caviar Black HDD
> 1050w Seasonic PSU
> Caselabs M8 case
> Creative Sound-Blaster Recon 3D sound card
> 6 channel Sunbeam PWM fan controller
> 15 Yate Loon Medium Red LED fans.
> 
> Water-cooling Components:
> 
> *x2* 360mm Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Rads in Push/Pull configuration
> Thermaltake Pump
> XSPC Raystorm CPU waterblock with custom soldered red LED illumination
> 250ml Bitspower Tube reservoir
> Two nickel plated EK Asus DCII GTX 670 Waterblocks
> EK Triple slot SLI Bridge
> Monsoon Compression Fittings
> 10ft of 3/8 ID 5/8 OD Red UV tubing
> Antimicrobial Silver Kill Coil


Welcome to OCN. Great looking rig. I really wanted an M8 before deciding on my SM5. Yours is beast.


----------



## hammerforged

ST10 Bulid Log in Sig


----------



## Solonowarion

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ST10 Bulid Log in Sig






Looks awesome. Did you paint those pipes or?


----------



## xxxaksxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle303*
> 
> is this pump any good
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16737/ex-pmp-203/Swiftech_MCP655_Variable_Speed_12v_Water_Pump_w_G14_Thread_Ports_Perfectly_Tapped.html?tl=g30c107s153


I have this pump and its great, It's really silent even at full speed. I like the variable speed because it makes bleeding the air out of the loop easier.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> lol.... aint that the truth. Maybe thats why I decided to do this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great idea! That's going to be nice, I can't wait to see this completed! Will you be re-installing the window on the cooler?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrewWyber*
> 
> Just created an account and haven't had the time to post specs, but here she is
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Here are the specs. Constructive criticism is welcomed!
> 
> Intel Core i7 3770k OC'd to a stable 4.8GHz
> Asus Maximus V Formula Z77 Motherboard with watercooled VRM
> 16gb G.Skill RAM. 1866 9-10-9-27 timings
> x2 Asus DCII Nvidia GTX 670 in SLI. Watercooled.
> 120gb Corsair Force GT3 Boot SSD
> 1TB WD Caviar Black HDD
> 1050w Seasonic PSU
> Caselabs M8 case
> Creative Sound-Blaster Recon 3D sound card
> 6 channel Sunbeam PWM fan controller
> 15 Yate Loon Medium Red LED fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Water-cooling Components:
> 
> *x2* 360mm Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Rads in Push/Pull configuration
> Thermaltake Pump
> XSPC Raystorm CPU waterblock with custom soldered red LED illumination
> 250ml Bitspower Tube reservoir
> *Two nickel plated EK Asus DCII GTX 670 Waterblocks*
> EK Triple slot SLI Bridge
> Monsoon Compression Fittings
> 10ft of 3/8 ID 5/8 OD Red UV tubing
> *Antimicrobial Silver Kill Coil*


Hey welcome to OCN, and nice build!







I've only been in the water cooling world as of recently but one thing I found out through my research is that you are not supposed to mix nickel and silver in the same loop as it can cause the nickel plating to flake. I wanted nickel blocks originally and opted for copper blocks since I would be running distilled water with a silver bullet. I know EK was working on the nickel plating flaking issue and issued a statement in 2011 here. And Koolance states the following on every product page.
Quote:


> Koolance's product warranty does not cover the use of 3rd-party coolants, coolant additives, or corrosion. Koolance LIQ-702 or LIQ-705 coolants are strongly recommended to help avoid issues with mixed metals or biological growth. Additionally, do not use aluminum with bare (unplated) copper or bare (unplated) brass in the same system. *Do not use silver with nickel in the same system.*


Maybe this has changed and I just missed something but just noticed from your post and thought id give you a friendly notice. Maybe some veterans can debunk this if this no longer holds true...anyone


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> 
> Looks awesome. Did you paint those pipes or?


Yeap. Just a textured black spray paint from the local hardware place. Just sanded them smooth and removed all oils and residue.


----------



## xxxaksxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome. Did you paint those pipes or?


I agree! Those hard lines look really nice as does your build, awesome work!









I'm also curious to know if they have been painted, it looks like it









EDIT: just saw your post, nvm!


----------



## DrewWyber

Thanks for the info! I'll definitely do a little more research to see if I should remove the silver coil.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> So still a bit baffled here..
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1360338/width/500/height/1000
> 
> Can I wire the signal wire to the graphics card if I knew the correct positions?
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1360343/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1360348/width/500/height/1000
> 
> Or should a custom made pcb be better?


hey mate, plug the 4 pin signal wire into ur mobo cpu fan slot, and u can access the pump rpm through speedfan or any other fan monitoring program.


----------



## xxxaksxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrewWyber*
> 
> Thanks for the info! I'll definitely do a little more research to see if I should remove the silver coil.


No problem! Looks like your using water, is that correct? If you do remove your silver kill coil and keep using water you will get algae formation eventually so you should think about using an organic biocide unless you switch to a coolant with anti-microbial and anti-corrosion properties.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrewWyber*
> 
> Thanks for the info! I'll definitely do a little more research to see if I should remove the silver coil.


This seems to be quite a debated topic. Some will tell you that EK was just making excuses for their sub-par nickel plating, and decided to blame silver kill coils. I won't say EK's claims are false, but from what I've read, there doesn't seem to be much strong evidence to support them. Here are some anodic index numbers for different metals:

Silver: 0.15, Nickel: 0.30, Copper: 0.35, Brass: 0.40-0.45, Stainless steel: 0.50-0.60, Aluminum: 0.75-0.95.

The closer the metals are to each other on this scale, the smaller the chance of corrosion. As you can see from the numbers above, silver and nickel are actually fairly similar metals. This has led me to believe that silver and nickel are probably safe in the same system, but I'll let some people with more water cooling experience weigh in on this topic.


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Finally caught up with the 600+ posts whew.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always sooooo many nice rigs and new water coolers in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.... aint that the truth. Maybe thats why I decided to do this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-































I swear, I've been waiting to see someone put a universal GPU block in a shroud ever since I've been browsin this thread. And you did it, so very well! Excellent work.


----------



## DrewWyber

I think that's what I will end up doing, just using an anti-microbial coolant. Plus a bright red coolant might look better anyways. I'll shop around though see what my options are. Honestly I may just stick w/ the silver coil since it does it's job well. I read somewhere that EK made nickle plated blocks and it was done cheaply, therefore the nickel plating flaked off. They then blamed that silver was the cause, and also said water (lol!) also was causing the flaking. I honestly think they were just playing the blame game and that silver might not be so bad to use w/ nickel after all, but wth do I know. I also heard that everything on the internet is true from a State Farm commercial so


----------



## DrewWyber

o wow just read your post after i posted mine. Think we got this topic surrounded


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Nice build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it already looks like a masterpiece on my book and it isn't even finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really dig your style. (which TBH i planned for myself something very similar. the hole red glow spots across the build and mainly black with some red touches)
> 
> i see you are using the XSPC razor blocks for those 7970's, how are they treating you? how temps are? (dye and VRM)
> 
> also checked your log and noticed you have koolance blocks before, why did you switch?


thanks for your comments

i switch from koolance because i had issue with corrosion inside and outside of Koolance block and for my theme, they are not the best looking block
and koolance refuse my RMA, im not using certified coolant (Koolance Coolant), alway use feser red coolant

before removing my Koolance GPU waterblock with VRM watercooled, i took the temp with both GPU at 99% (furmark use only 99%)
these cards are little Factory OC at 1000Mhz

results:

Koolance

Ambiant:25C
GPU-1: 44C
VRM1: 42C
VRM2: 40C

GPU-2: 43C
VRM1: 43C
VRM2: 41C

now with XSPC water block with Passive heatsink on VRM
XSPC Razor 7970 (New Style)

Ambiant:26C
GPU-1: 47C
VRM1: 60C
VRM2: 54C

GPU-2: 47C
VRM1: 57C
VRM2: 59C

i think the results are good only 3C more on GPU

for sure koolance are better but i think they are best for performance

VRM temp is another story but still far away from air cooling, on air is around 90c
the XSPC passive vrm Heat sink do the job


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Finally caught up with the 600+ posts whew.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always sooooo many nice rigs and new water coolers in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.... aint that the truth. Maybe thats why I decided to do this:


This has solved the problem for people who like the original look of the titan but want to water cool the card
cant wait for final pictures
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ST10 Bulid Log in Sig


looking great, very sleek!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> thanks for your comments
> 
> i switch from koolance because i had issue with corrosion inside and outside of Koolance block and for my theme, they are not the best looking block
> and koolance refuse my RMA, im not using certified coolant (Koolance Coolant), alway use feser red coolant
> 
> before removing my Koolance GPU waterblock with VRM watercooled, i took the temp with both GPU at 99% (furmark use only 99%)
> these cards are little Factory OC at 1000Mhz
> 
> results:
> 
> Koolance
> 
> Ambiant:25C
> GPU-1: 44C
> VRM1: 42C
> VRM2: 40C
> 
> GPU-2: 43C
> VRM1: 43C
> VRM2: 41C
> 
> now with XSPC water block with Passive heatsink on VRM
> XSPC Razor 7970 (New Style)
> 
> Ambiant:26C
> GPU-1: 47C
> VRM1: 60C
> VRM2: 54C
> 
> GPU-2: 47C
> VRM1: 57C
> VRM2: 59C
> 
> i think the results are good only 3C more on GPU
> 
> for sure koolance are better but i think they are best for performance
> 
> VRM temp is another story but still far away from air cooling, on air is around 90c
> the XSPC passive vrm Heat sink do the job


Thanks for the comment. so i guess that with a bit more OC you'd reach mid 60's on the VRMs which a i think is quite good for passive cooling and is definitely better than the 90C of air. (maybe a bit airflow might help these)

the XSPC blocks are totally worth it aesthetically for me than most blocks out there but too bad there isn't a backplate (an official one that is).


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Perfect loop!


Thank you


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> ST10 Bulid Log in Sig


Absolutely incredible, stunning, knockout build! WOW!!

(hehehe...your rig has a landing strip...hehehehe)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxxaksxxx*
> 
> No problem! Looks like your using water, is that correct? If you do remove your silver kill coil and keep using water you will get algae formation eventually so you should think about using an organic biocide unless you switch to a coolant with anti-microbial and anti-corrosion properties.


PT-Nuke, preferably PHN (IMO), IandH Deadwater, or Mayhem's biocide are all phenomenal products that work better than any small strip of silver will while reducing any worry about plasticizer issues or nickel flaking.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> This seems to be quite a debated topic. Some will tell you that EK was just making excuses for their sub-par nickel plating, and decided to blame silver kill coils. I won't say EK's claims are false, but from what I've read, there doesn't seem to be much strong evidence to support them. Here are some anodic index numbers for different metals:
> 
> Silver: 0.15, Nickel: 0.30, Copper: 0.35, Brass: 0.40-0.45, Stainless steel: 0.50-0.60, Aluminum: 0.75-0.95.
> 
> The closer the metals are to each other on this scale, the smaller the chance of corrosion. As you can see from the numbers above, silver and nickel are actually fairly similar metals. This has led me to believe that silver and nickel are probably safe in the same system, but I'll let some people with more water cooling experience weigh in on this topic.


As someone with a very strong background in chemistry (Psychopharmacology, which = tons of Chem, Chem Engineering, and O-Chem), I can say this: there is no way to prove anything one way or the other, at least outside of a laboratory, due to vast number of inherently uncontrollable variables. Some distilled water is better than others, some distilled water is processed differently (and in fact, some of the Distilled water you can buy is also de-ionized without being explicitly labeled as such), the quality of nickel plating varies tremendously not only from company to company or generation to generation but even from block to block, the exact purity of the silver used for the kill coil, the metal with which the silver is alloyed, the relative amounts of copper and brass in the system, how often the system is drained, what type of dyes are used if any, what type of biocide apart from the kill coil is used if any, and so on and so forth....

That doesn't mean that we can't draw tentative, and well-informed, conclusions about what is and is not safe to put into a water loop, though.

Keep in mind that while, as you mentioned, silver and nickel are relatively close on the Galvanic index, Silver and Brass, for example, are not. You can't look at just two components, you have to take into account every metal present in the loop when figuring the potential for Galvanic corrosion.
Most fittings are brass, many are plated with nickel.
Most blocks are copper, some are plated with nickel.
Most radiators contain a mix of copper and brass.

I am of the opinion that the fewer metals you have in your loop, the better. Period. I intentionally did my best to ensure that I had as much copper as possible in my loop, with brass being the only other metal with which water will come into contact. This was relatively easy, as well: Swiftech CPU Block (copper), Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 radiator (copper), XSPC EX radiator (copper and brass), Watercool HeatKiller GPUx3 Block (copper), Bitspower Fittings in Black (brass), Monsoon Fittings in Black (brass).

I understand the aesthetic appeal of Nickel in blocks, although I am partial to visible copper (it just looks sweet), but just remember that you ARE taking a risk, no matter how small, by introducing multiple metals.
There are a number of potent corrosion inhibitors out there, one of the best being RedLine Water Wetter as unlike Ethylene Glycol or other anti-freeze, you need literally only a few drops (as a side benefit, it will actually help your loop's water to carry heat, rather than inhibit it as Glycols do). I would not recommend running it with any Dyes, though, as I have never done so and cannot vouch for what would happen.
The other thing you'll want to do is keep your water as PH-neutral as possible. You can get PH Testing Strips from tons of places, although pool supply stores tend to have the best quality for the least money (as in most accurate). Using a Biocide like PTNuke-PHN ("PH-Neutral"), using colored tubing instead of dyes, testing the water every-other month or so, and changing it 1-2x/year is the best way to keep the PH Levels in check. Should the water become to acidic or alkaline, it's quite likely that you'll not only have to deal with plasticizer leaching, but you'll also have to deal with pitting or other problems in your blocks.

Hope this is of some help!


----------



## xxxaksxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrewWyber*
> 
> I also heard that everything on the internet is true from a State Farm commercial so


LOL








Why would anyone on the internet ever lie


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Absolutely incredible, stunning, knockout build! WOW!!
> 
> (hehehe...your rig has a landing strip...hehehehe)


Ha! I will never be able to unthink that. Hilarious.


----------



## fakeblood

in the process of rebuilding my TJ07

mobo is officially kitted out


----------



## xxxaksxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> in the process of rebuilding my TJ07
> 
> mobo is officially kitted out


XSPC blocks all around. Nice picture, it looks real good!


----------



## MKHunt

That mSATA sticker is adorable.


----------



## wermad

UP7 Z77 so







. With Xspc mb block:


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> As someone with a very strong background in chemistry (Psychopharmacology, which = tons of Chem, Chem Engineering, and O-Chem), I can say this: there is no way to prove anything one way or the other, at least outside of a laboratory, due to vast number of inherently uncontrollable variables. Some distilled water is better than others, some distilled water is processed differently (and in fact, some of the Distilled water you can buy is also de-ionized without being explicitly labeled as such), the quality of nickel plating varies tremendously not only from company to company or generation to generation but even from block to block, the exact purity of the silver used for the kill coil, the metal with which the silver is alloyed, the relative amounts of copper and brass in the system, how often the system is drained, what type of dyes are used if any, what type of biocide apart from the kill coil is used if any, and so on and so forth....
> 
> That doesn't mean that we can't draw tentative, and well-informed, conclusions about what is and is not safe to put into a water loop, though.
> 
> Keep in mind that while, as you mentioned, silver and nickel are relatively close on the Galvanic index, Silver and Brass, for example, are not. You can't look at just two components, you have to take into account every metal present in the loop when figuring the potential for Galvanic corrosion.
> Most fittings are brass, many are plated with nickel.
> Most blocks are copper, some are plated with nickel.
> Most radiators contain a mix of copper and brass.
> 
> I am of the opinion that the fewer metals you have in your loop, the better. Period. I intentionally did my best to ensure that I had as much copper as possible in my loop, with brass being the only other metal with which water will come into contact. This was relatively easy, as well: Swiftech CPU Block (copper), Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 radiator (copper), XSPC EX radiator (copper and brass), Watercool HeatKiller GPUx3 Block (copper), Bitspower Fittings in Black (brass), Monsoon Fittings in Black (brass).
> 
> Hope this is of some help!


Glad to have some input from someone who knows a bit more about the topic. It's true that interactions between all the different metals (and non-metals) in a loop are complex and hard to accurately predict. The galvanic index certainly is not a comprehensive explanation but it is a decent rule of thumb to go by when assembling a loop.

I should also point out that stainless steel is a metal often forgotten about in liquid cooling loops. For example, your GPU-X3 block has a stainless steel top plate that comes into direct contact with the water, as do a number of other blocks. Food for thought...


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> That mSATA sticker is adorable.


I assure you it will be staying









motherboard is back in the box for now until my coldzero parts arrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> UP7 Z77 so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . With Xspc mb block:


Agreed! look B-E-A-UTIFUL


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxxaksxxx*
> 
> Great idea! That's going to be nice, I can't wait to see this completed! Will you be re-installing the window on the cooler?


Thanks!







I'm creating a custom window so I don't have to drill holes in the factory windows









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I swear, I've been waiting to see someone put a universal GPU block in a shroud ever since I've been browsin this thread. And you did it, so very well! Excellent work.


I appreciate it conntick







. At least now folks know it can be done









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> This has solved the problem for people who like the original look of the titan but want to water cool the card
> cant wait for final pictures


Well, i don't know about "solved" but it at least shows that it can be done. Not only that, but the MCW82 block is one of the bigger universal blocks and it fits (had to enlarge the GPU cutout on the heatsink though







). So if someone were to use a smaller GPU block like a heatkiller no mods would be necessary to the sink its self







. I can't wait to get it together







... then I have one more to do lol... and then a third in a few months









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> in the process of rebuilding my TJ07
> 
> mobo is officially kitted out
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is pretty sweet!


----------



## skyn3t

hey guys i have been work on this Mod for few days and i like to have some input and see what you guys think.

[Case Mod ] T-inv3rted ITX Work Log.

this is a sneak pick


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> in the process of rebuilding my TJ07
> 
> mobo is officially kitted out
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




















































wowowow me want bad!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> hey guys i have been work on this Mod for few days and i like to have some input and see what you guys think.
> 
> [Case Mod ] T-inv3rted ITX Work Log.
> 
> this is a sneak pick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! What case is that?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Got my smoked plexi window installed in the front of my TJ11. Loving it!


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Got my smoked plexi window installed in the front of my TJ11. Loving it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Me likey







I also LOVE the perfect lighting you have... everything is equally accented in the red glow of gloriousness that it is


----------



## pc-illiterate

where do those fans draw in fresh air with a solid cover over them?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Nice! What case is that?


It was a Thermaltake V3 Black Edition VL80001W2Z I shrinked the case and inverted the mobo tray


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> It was a Thermaltake V3 Black Edition VL80001W2Z I shrinked the case and inverted the mobo tray


Sweet!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> where do those fans draw in fresh air with a solid cover over them?


There's about a 4 inch gap between the window and the fans as well as gaps on either side and into the bottom of the case.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Glad to have some input from someone who knows a bit more about the topic. It's true that interactions between all the different metals (and non-metals) in a loop are complex and hard to accurately predict. The galvanic index certainly is not a comprehensive explanation but it is a decent rule of thumb to go by when assembling a loop.
> 
> I should also point out that stainless steel is a metal often forgotten about in liquid cooling loops. *For example, your GPU-X3 block has a stainless steel top plate that comes into direct contact with the water, as do a number of other blocks. Food for thought...*


Actually, the Stainless Steel doesn't contact the water at any point... Trust me, I checked into it lol.


----------



## Lazy Bear

"Raystorm" is right side up now; better?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Actually, the Stainless Steel doesn't contact the water at any point... Trust me, I checked into it lol.


http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15520

Second paragraph "All water carrying parts of the cooler are made from pure electrolytic copper or stainless steel"

I just thought since that stainless plate is sitting right on top of the water passages it would come into contact with the water. Is there something in between it and the base?

EDIT:







Page 4000!


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Got my smoked plexi window installed in the front of my TJ11. Loving it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Everything about this screams perfection. Well done!!


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Raystorm" is right side up now; better?


The planets have realigned


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> 
> "Raystorm" is right side up now; better?


I didn't have any problem with it the other way... flow and cooling performance is way more important than reading some text... but now all the OCD freaks can let the hair on the backs of their necks go back down.


----------



## Hokies83

I need to get some of you guys to take pictures of my Rig lol.

In person it looks Amazing i take a picture and it looks like dog crap lol.

I either suck at taking pics or my camera sucks " id wager on both tho "


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I need to get some of you guys to take pictures of my Rig lol.
> 
> In person it looks Amazing i take a picture and it looks like dog crap lol.
> 
> I either suck at taking pics or my camera sucks " id wager on both tho "


It's not in the camera or photographer, it's all about the lighting.


----------



## Lazy Bear

It's not all about the camera, it's about lighting.

however with my T3i I can take pictures like this:


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I need to get some of you guys to take pictures of my Rig lol.
> 
> In person it looks Amazing i take a picture and it looks like dog crap lol.
> 
> I either suck at taking pics or my camera sucks " id wager on both tho "


This might help. My pics suck too. I feel the same way.

http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig/0_20


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> It's not in the camera or photographer, it's all about the lighting.


This exactly. No matter what camera you have, if it has a program setting and you have a tripod... your problem is solved. It might require 2-3 second exposures to get enough light to make a dark shot (only interior lighting) show up with decent detail... but if you have the camera on a tripod or on a pile of books if you don't have a tripod... you'll still get pretty good pics.

Other than those... you can always haul it outside on an overcast (but not rainy obviously) day and the lighting should be just about perfect!


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I need to get some of you guys to take pictures of my Rig lol.
> 
> In person it looks Amazing i take a picture and it looks like dog crap lol.
> 
> I either suck at taking pics or my camera sucks " id wager on both tho "


Best way to get amazing looking pictures? Wait for a cloudy day and take your rig outside. Set your camera's white balance to cloudy and your pictures will turn out amazing. Use a tripod if you can, it really helps sometimes. This assumes you know how to properly frame a shot and use the general functions of a camera.

When it's cloudy, you have natural light which allows you to see the real, true colour of things. Other light sources emit a colour of their own so to speak, and skew your perception of colour. To be honest I'm not 100% if my reasoning is true, but it makes sense to me. Either way, the bit about cloudy skies is true, that is the best time to take pictures if you want true colours.

If you have a DLSR, or can change these settings, then shooting with your aperture set wide open can help too, but you'll want a tripod since the shutter speed will be quite slow.


----------



## DrewWyber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Me likey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also LOVE the perfect lighting you have... everything is equally accented in the red glow of gloriousness that it is


Agreed! This is one AMAZING setup! Those clear waterblocks for your Titans are awesome and the smoke plexi on the front makes a world of difference!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love my D5100. Makes taking pics of my rig so much more fun than it used to be...


----------



## Hogwasher

I like to take pictures in a dark room. I set my case right up to my monitor. Then a put a completely white background in the monitor and turn the brightness as high as it will go.

Turn the flash on my camera off and take a couple pics.

This is my personal routine


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I used normal lighting in my office for those shots I just posted using a 1/6 sec exposure and 1000 ISO. Tripods make a world of difference...


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

lookin for some advice!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1373501/buying-this-tomorrow-good-bad-what-am-i-thinking


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lookin for some advice!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1373501/buying-this-tomorrow-good-bad-what-am-i-thinking


First things first clean up the cables, second get new tubes those look a little green, third I would not put that fan on the top but hey that is just me


----------



## darkhorse77

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1373536/the-cube


----------



## darkhorse77

sorry im a noob and dont know how to do spoilers


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Glad to have some input from someone who knows a bit more about the topic. It's true that interactions between all the different metals (and non-metals) in a loop are complex and hard to accurately predict. The galvanic index certainly is not a comprehensive explanation but it is a decent rule of thumb to go by when assembling a loop.
> 
> I should also point out that stainless steel is a metal often forgotten about in liquid cooling loops. *For example, your GPU-X3 block has a stainless steel top plate that comes into direct contact with the water, as do a number of other blocks. Food for thought...*
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the Stainless Steel doesn't contact the water at any point... Trust me, I checked into it lol.
Click to expand...

No,but the SS impingement plates in their CPU blocks do,the same as the SS plates in a lot of CPU blocks by nearly all manus.
Had silver in a loop with nickel in for ages with no issues.
This only came up after EKs awful prep work causing the flaking issues,koolance jumped on that wagon not long after...surprising that they are the only 2 with that in their instructions,Watercool,Aquacomputer,Swiftech,Alphacool,Phobya,MIPS.....none of these have nickel issues and have no problem with silver.


----------



## nicoliani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Yeah, I'm not a really pump savvy guy yet, but this is not a smooth move, IMO... Those things are not known for staying cool on their own, unless we refer to submerged units, which this isn't...
> I dunno... I'm getting an MCP35X, and I'm getting the heatsink WITH a fan for it, I'm that worried!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


I can assure you that this pump runs very cool. Inside or outside a box. I don't know if they have made improvements on this second revision, but this pump rocks


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Actually, the Stainless Steel doesn't contact the water at any point... Trust me, I checked into it lol.


Wow thanks mate saved me heaps of work too, I stumbled on this by chance haha


----------



## Mandrake7062

Hey Bnegative..

I don't want to start a troll type thing here about the TIN I should use but I forget the one that everyone was talking about, so I called you out so I wouldn't start a big argument about TIN. Are one of these perferred TIN's OK?
Thanks.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=46_58


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Hey Bnegative..
> 
> I don't want to start a troll type thing here about the TIN I should use but I forget the one that everyone was talking about, so I called you out so I wouldn't start a big argument about TIN. Are one of these perferred TIN's OK?
> Thanks.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=46_58


My favorite TIM is Prolimatech PK-1. Close second, IC Diamond 7-Carat.

Thanks - T


----------



## Mandrake7062

Thrasher, thanks, I'll give your favorite a try!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> Best way to get amazing looking pictures? Wait for a cloudy day and take your rig outside. Set your camera's white balance to cloudy and your pictures will turn out amazing. Use a tripod if you can, it really helps sometimes. This assumes you know how to properly frame a shot and use the general functions of a camera.
> 
> When it's cloudy, you have natural light which allows you to see the real, true colour of things. Other light sources emit a colour of their own so to speak, and skew your perception of colour. To be honest I'm not 100% if my reasoning is true, but it makes sense to me. Either way, the bit about cloudy skies is true, that is the best time to take pictures if you want true colours.
> 
> If you have a DLSR, or can change these settings, then shooting with your aperture set wide open can help too, but you'll want a tripod since the shutter speed will be quite slow.


Great suggestions. Going to give that a go when I try to take final pics of my SM5 with my D3200.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Very nice. I miss Insomnia. Went to i41 and i42 with my gaming team then I left them due to other commitments, and I've not been back since. They were obscene amounts of fun to attend and be a part of.

Plus the fact it moved to Telford!


----------



## nicoliani




----------



## JMatzelle303

I have used AIO cooling solutions im really excited to build my first ever water cooling loop


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lookin for some advice!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1373501/buying-this-tomorrow-good-bad-what-am-i-thinking


This rig needs beyond cable management. Clean it up a bit and let your hardware shine.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> This rig needs beyond cable management. Clean it up a bit and let your hardware shine.


Ive seen Worse XD

It is messy but functional.

I think he posted to join the club and may not care about the cables.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Ive seen Worse XD
> 
> It is messy but functional.
> 
> I think he posted to join the club and may not care about the cables.


You must be kidding me?!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> You must be kidding me?!


LoL ive seen ALOT worse then that lol.

Stick around and you will see some things ... Some crazy things time to time.

I can remember this one where dude opened up a case and it was full of cob webs and bugs XD


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> You must be kidding me?!


Lemmie get home today so I can get on my guild's website, and I'll repost a shot of my raid group off-tank's rig... his PSU's fan died, so he daisy-chained paperclips together and suspended a fan BELOW the PSU (top mount) to try and get air to it. All the while, NO cable management of ANY kind, and an atrocious case to begin with.

It made me LOL though!

Thanks - T


----------



## Dzuks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Sure, its a promotional system for a gaming clan TCM Gaming and will be on show at Multiplay Insomnia LAN this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *System Spec:*
> CoolerMaster Cosmos II
> Coolermaster 1300W Hybrid PSU
> Asus Z9PE-D8 WS Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W s2011 CPU's
> GTX680 GPU's
> Kingston HyperX Predator 32GB Memory
> Kingston HyperX SSD's
> XSPC EX360
> XSPC EX240 Multiport x2
> XSPC Raystorm CPU + GPU Blocks
> XSPC Dual DDC Bay Res
> DDC Pumps
> Bitspower Fittings
> 7/16" Masterkleer Hose
> Thermochill FC6 Liquid
> Coolermaster120mm Fans






Amazing build! So impressed


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> LoL ive seen ALOT worse then that lol.
> 
> Stick around and you will see some things ... Some crazy things time to time.
> 
> I can remember this one where dude opened up a case and it was full of cob webs and bugs XD


Like THIS? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObktirfMcns


----------



## PhantomTaco

Though I no longer am a full on watercooler, I'm still partially, and that's enough justification in my head to post







. First a refresher on my old setup:



And the best photo I've taken so far of my new build:

Have to say I still feel the old one looked nicer, but the case was too big and sadly full on watercooling is no longer that viable for me because I move around a lot. Still proud of how it looks tho.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> LoL ive seen ALOT worse then that lol.
> 
> Stick around and you will see some things ... Some crazy things time to time.
> 
> I can remember this one where dude opened up a case and it was full of cob webs and bugs XD


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Lemmie get home today so I can get on my guild's website, and I'll repost a shot of my raid group off-tank's rig... his PSU's fan died, so he daisy-chained paperclips together and suspended a fan BELOW the PSU (top mount) to try and get air to it. All the while, NO cable management of ANY kind, and an atrocious case to begin with.
> 
> It made me LOL though!
> 
> Thanks - T


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Like THIS? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObktirfMcns


Yikes!







You guys weren't kidding...


----------



## wesnerer

This is my first venture into water cooling. I Just need a few angle fittings and some red coolant and it will be complete.




Asus Maximus V Formula
i3570K
G.Skill Sniper 8gb 1866
Sapphire HD 7950
Seasonic X750 Gold
Corsair C70

XSPC 360 and 240mm Radiators
Swiftech MCP35B pump
Bitspower 150 res
XSPC Raystorm CPU block
EK FC7950 GPU block with backplate
Primochill Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red tubing


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wesnerer*
> 
> This is my first venture into water cooling. I Just need a few angle fittings and some red coolant and it will be complete.
> 
> 
> 
> Asus Maximus V Formula
> i3570K
> G.Skill Sniper 8gb
> Sapphire HD 7950
> Seasonic X750 Gold
> 
> XSPC 360 and 240mm Radiators
> Swiftech MCP35B pump
> Bitspower 150 res
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block
> EK FC7950 GPU block with backplate
> Primochill Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red tubing


Looks beautiful but I think you need a few cable tidys round the back?


----------



## Solonowarion

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Though I no longer am a full on watercooler, I'm still partially, and that's enough justification in my head to post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . First a refresher on my old setup:






Dude! Green is my color but I never thought it had a tasteful place in PC builds. Looks super good. Clean.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wesnerer*
> 
> This is my first venture into water cooling. I Just need a few angle fittings and some red coolant and it will be complete.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Asus Maximus V Formula
> i3570K
> G.Skill Sniper 8gb
> Sapphire HD 7950
> Seasonic X750 Gold
> 
> XSPC 360 and 240mm Radiators
> Swiftech MCP35B pump
> Bitspower 150 res
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block
> EK FC7950 GPU block with backplate
> Primochill Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red tubing


What case is that?

Very interesting way of having the tubing, I like it, very original


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wesnerer*
> 
> This is my first venture into water cooling. I Just need a few angle fittings and some red coolant and it will be complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus Maximus V Formula
> i3570K
> G.Skill Sniper 8gb
> Sapphire HD 7950
> Seasonic X750 Gold
> 
> XSPC 360 and 240mm Radiators
> Swiftech MCP35B pump
> Bitspower 150 res
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block
> EK FC7950 GPU block with backplate
> Primochill Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red tubing


nice loop there








we have almost all the same things in our builds (just missing the WC







)

seriously, it is like everyone are reading my mind on what i wanted to do in the C70 WC wise or using that MoBo and now so many are doing similar things







(which are smoking)

btw, would you say it is possible to mount a D5 in the space created between the bottom rad and the HDD cage if a 45mm rad is used?
also, would you share on the 360 mount there?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What case is that?
> 
> Very interesting way of having the tubing, I like it, very original


It's the Corsair Vengeance C70 gunmetal black.


----------



## wesnerer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> nice loop there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we have almost all the same things in our builds (just missing the WC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> seriously, it is like everyone are reading my mind on what i wanted to do in the C70 WC wise or using that MoBo and now so many are doing similar things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (which are smoking)
> 
> btw, would you say it is possible to mount a D5 in the space created between the bottom rad and the HDD cage if a 45mm rad is used?
> also, would you share on the 360 mount there?
> It's the Corsair Vengeance C70 gunmetal black.


Well I have 60mm of rad+fan down there and it leaves 3.75 inches. Not sure how big a D5 is but it might fit with a mod top.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Raystorm" is right side up now; better?


Got a pic of the whole rig? I really like the colors man, and I never intended offense mentioning the block being upside down.

Also, how do you like that board? I was giving it some serious consideration with a 3820 to hold out for IB-E as an upgrade if my 8320 can't hack it.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wesnerer*
> 
> Well I have 60mm of rad+fan down there and it leaves 3.75 inches. Not sure how big a D5 is but it might fit with a mod top.


wait, that was a 60mm rad in the picture? (doesn't look like that to me at least)

anyway, a D5 pump top is 80mm high so by the looks of it sounds possible but kinda tight.


----------



## wesnerer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> wait, that was a 60mm rad in the picture? (doesn't look like that to me at least)
> 
> anyway, a D5 pump top is 80mm high so by the looks of it sounds possible but kinda tight.


The rad + the fan is 60mm. I missed the question about how i mounted the 360mm rad. I just used the 240 mount and put 6mm worth of washers on the top of the rad to level it all out.


----------



## WebsterXC

Here's my main rig build that I just finished. I haven't actually had the chance to take a full rig picture with the window on and stuff, but here's what I got. Unfortunately I didn't do a build log for it. Purple/Black Color scheme on the X79 platform. Need to work on the purple lighting inside, but this will do for now.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Here's my main rig build that I just finished. I haven't actually had the chance to take a full rig picture with the window on and stuff, but here's what I got. Unfortunately I didn't do a build log for it. Purple/Black Color scheme on the X79 platform. Need to work on the purple lighting inside, but this will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is gorgeous! Nice work... I look forward to seeing pics of the whole case









I have a little update on my KP Hybrid Cooled Edition Titan project







. Still not complete but I did get the new acrylic window made (what a pain) and fitted.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wesnerer*
> 
> The rad + the fan is 60mm. I missed the question about how i mounted the 360mm rad. I just used the 240 mount and put 6mm worth of washers on the top of the rad to level it all out.


so i guess it should wok. worst case scenario it wouldn't be completely under the cage or i'll use either those bitspower res tops or a compact DDC instead.

and it just worked? never expected it to be that simple to mount a 360 there. (which further proves what an epic case is the C70. if it had a pedestal it would be the best midtower out there IMO)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Here's my main rig build that I just finished. I haven't actually had the chance to take a full rig picture with the window on and stuff, but here's what I got. Unfortunately I didn't do a build log for it. Purple/Black Color scheme on the X79 platform. Need to work on the purple lighting inside, but this will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Crossfire bridges, their terror on beautiful builds never stops. always there to terrorize the aesthetics. (a cover to that bridge would do you so much)

have you considered white lighting or the picture isn't delivering the proper in person impression of that purple lighting?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> That is gorgeous! Nice work... I look forward to seeing pics of the whole case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a little update on my KP Hybrid Cooled Edition Titan project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still not complete but I did get the new acrylic window made (what a pain) and fitted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


so any plans for the fittings? (this mod is so awesome)

i wonder what a similar mod would ave been on a GTX 690 (or the possible future dual Titan card that would cost a fortune)


----------



## wesnerer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> so i guess it should wok. worst case scenario it wouldn't be completely under the cage or i'll use either those bitspower res tops or a compact DDC instead.
> 
> and it just worked? never expected it to be that simple to mount a 360 there. (which further proves what an epic case is the C70. if it had a pedestal it would be the best midtower out there IMO)
> 
> You have to remove the little brace across the 5.25 bays. There is just 2 rivets holding it in place. A drill makes quick work of them!!


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> That is gorgeous! Nice work... I look forward to seeing pics of the whole case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a little update on my KP Hybrid Cooled Edition Titan project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still not complete but I did get the new acrylic window made (what a pain) and fitted.


Love it, nice work cutting the acrylic.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> so any plans for the fittings? (this mod is so awesome)
> 
> i wonder what a similar mod would ave been on a GTX 690 (or the possible future dual Titan card that would cost a fortune)


Yes, I'm probably going to run the fittings below up from the block and put some female Koolance Pipe fittings on them (using copper tubing in my build) and run the tube straight back.



And it would have been awesome on a 690! If I had one I'd try it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Love it, nice work cutting the acrylic.


Thanks!







If you could actually see the edges you wouldn't say that lol... using the dremel by hand to cut the edges for the raise window look like stock was such a PITA for sure.... the second card will look better


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> And it would have been awesome on a 690! If I had one I'd try it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you could actually see the edges you wouldn't say that lol... using the dremel by hand to cut the edges for the raise window look like stock was such a PITA for sure.... the second card will look better


Very brave sir very brave, I like how you took advantage of the Titans awesome cover and utilized it with a water block. Can't let the sweet cooler go to waste, sitting in the closet collecting dust.


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Crossfire bridges, their terror on beautiful builds never stops. always there to terrorize the aesthetics. (a cover to that bridge would do you so much)
> 
> have you considered white lighting or the picture isn't delivering the proper in person impression of that purple lighting?


I'm having issues with my camera lately so the purple lighting doesn't do it justice. I have to sit down and really play around with camera and have a real picture session. I may switch to white lights though, I haven't decided. I'll probably get a hard bridge eventually.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Yes, I'm probably going to run the fittings below up from the block and put some female Koolance Pipe fittings on them (using copper tubing in my build) and run the tube straight back.
> 
> 
> 
> And it would have been awesome on a 690! If I had one I'd try it


so U turns, i guess nothing else can really be done.
and a 690 would be exactly like your titan but double the fun







(two blocks)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I'm having issues with my camera lately so the purple lighting doesn't do it justice. I have to sit down and really play around with camera and have a real picture session. I may switch to white lights though, I haven't decided. I'll probably get a hard bridge eventually.


just get black tape or some kind of cover to hide the bridge.


----------



## wholeeo

Here's my contribution to this thread. Actually need to update that picture since I now have a EVGA backplate on the card.


----------



## Killa Cam

^ goddammit. i have to finish my build with dat mobo. sleeving is taking sooo loong *sigh*


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Here's my main rig build that I just finished. I haven't actually had the chance to take a full rig picture with the window on and stuff, but here's what I got. Unfortunately I didn't do a build log for it. Purple/Black Color scheme on the X79 platform. Need to work on the purple lighting inside, but this will do for now.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is awesome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my contribution to this thread. Actually need to update that picture since I now have a EVGA backplate on the card.


That looks pretty darn good too!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## SpykeZ

Joining the hell out of this!







*From my build log *


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Joining the hell out of this!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *From my build log *


LOL nice, get 'em soldier!!


----------



## SpykeZ

Thanks







I'll be replacing the sata cables soon


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## KaRLiToS

Awsome Mike. Please I want more.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*


Very nice rig wholeeo, nice color theme.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Joining the hell out of this!


Haha, nice rig, this photo made me laugh


----------



## PCModderMike

LOL! That made me literally chuckle KaRLiToS....thanks!


----------



## fakeblood

If I were to use barbs (just for a change of look / never used just barbs before) what would be the best size for 3/8 - 5/8 tubing which I have already? Id be wanting to go clampless aswell

Thanks in advance


----------



## PCModderMike

For 1/2 inch barbs, 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD

EDIT: You edited your post....to say the tubing you already have. Not sure if you could squeeze 3/8 over 1/2 barbs....maybe with some heat.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Very nice rig wholeeo, nice color theme.


Thanks.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> For 1/2 inch barbs, 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD
> 
> EDIT: You edited your post....to say the tubing you already have. Not sure if you could squeeze 3/8 over 1/2 barbs....maybe with some heat.


Thanks, may aswell grab some extra tubing in that case. not all that expensive..

Cheers


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Thanks, may aswell grab some extra tubing in that case. not all that expensive..
> 
> Cheers


Sure thing.







Yea tubing is not very expensive at all, especially when you use something like Durelene.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Haven't post this one

*You can enlarge them* (4320x3420)


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Haven't post this one
> 
> *You can enlarge them* (4320x3420)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man that's nice!!!


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> That is gorgeous! Nice work... I look forward to seeing pics of the whole case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a little update on my KP Hybrid Cooled Edition Titan project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still not complete but I did get the new acrylic window made (what a pain) and fitted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*


Wow Mike, nice photos, loving your build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my contribution to this thread. Actually need to update that picture since I now have a EVGA backplate on the card.


I am really liking the sleeving on the water tubing mate!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Haven't post this one
> 
> *You can enlarge them* (4320x3420)


Your PC is so neat, and your setup is definitely drool worthy.

Edit: Fixed spelling/grammar.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Haven't post this one
> 
> *You can enlarge them* (4320x3420)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What kind of lighting are you using behind your monitors?


----------



## _REAPER_

OK DMN IT I am going to block my GPUS, how much rad space do I need for 3 680 classifieds and 3970x 4.6ghz


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> If I were to use barbs (just for a change of look / never used just barbs before) what would be the best size for 3/8 - 5/8 tubing which I have already? Id be wanting to go clampless aswell
> 
> Thanks in advance


Use non stubby 3/8" fittings. Koolance ones work great.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> What kind of lighting are you using behind your monitors?


Its Ikea LED http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/50192365/

The one inside my computer is RGB 5050 LED 300 / 5 meters (ebay)


----------



## fakeblood

I've seen some 7/16 barbs. Would they be better? Have been reading and seen you can fit 3/8 on 1/2 with a bit of work... Hmmm


----------



## Lazy Bear

Nothing special for now, Dwood hasn't gotten back to me about a PSU shroud, the pump's cables are loose, and I have to cut out some stuff for the RX240 to fit, and then, maybe, it'll be original. I also need to get some NZXT HUE lighting, as of right now had to use my phone's flashlight as a light. Otherwise too much green.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Has anyone else used Indigo Xtreme on a XSPC Rasa block?

I just did, and to my biggest disappointment







I am having higher temp's.

Like 4 degrees Celsius higher









And yes I did the reflow thing correctly, well it looked very similar to what all the video's etc showed.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Nothing special for now, Dwood hasn't gotten back to me about a PSU shroud, the pump's cables are loose, and I have to cut out some stuff for the RX240 to fit, and then, maybe, it'll be original. I also need to get some NZXT HUE lighting, as of right now had to use my phone's flashlight as a light. Otherwise too much green.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


TO MUCH GREEN...wash your mouth out there is no such thing as to much green LOL


----------



## _REAPER_

@ BNEG/ KARLITOS

Is a 360 RAD good enough for 3 680 Classifieds and a CPU at 4.6ghz or should I add another 120 RAD for good measure?


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Haven't post this one
> 
> *You can enlarge them* (4320x3420)


Is that a stray balloon that I spy in the second picture?

Amazing rig too KaRLiToS


----------



## w-moffatt

ok guys and girls its time for me to look at watercooling my toy.

Just planning stages at the moment. Below is the site im going through for parts (watercooling stuff isnt easy to get in melbourne)

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160

Ive got a phantom 410 case and have removed the hdd cage on bottom. Photos below



Apparently it supports a 240mm up front which is what i want. The 120mm rad im hoping to mount on the rear of the case as i want maximum cooling on my GPU (im only going to go a very mild OC if at all) so the main focus is to get my GPU underwater. I also plan on buying a 2nd and possibly 3rd 7970 so i want the headroom with the 240mm.

So the idea is res>240mm rad>pump>GPU>120mm rad>cpu>res

^not 100% sure this is right order.

I am super noob at WC'ing and my last attempt (XSPC RASA 240 KIT) was a flop (faulty pump) and left a really sour taste in my mouth.

My idea for parts are below

Koolance CPU-380A CPU Water Block for AMD - $75.00
Heatkiller GPU-X³ 79X0 Water Block Ni-Bl - $139.00
Black Ice SR1 240 Radiator - $79.00
Black Ice SR1 120 Radiator - $59.00
XSPC D5 Vario Pump with Front Cover - $99.00
XSPC Black Dual 5.25in Bay Reservoir Ball Front - $39.00
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Clear 1/2ID 3/4OD 10ft - $25.00
Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White Rotary 1/2 Compression Fitting CC5 x 14 - $196
Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White Sealing Plug x 3 - $18.00
Bitspower T-Block Silver Shining x 1 - $12.00

Total - $741.00

Just want to make sure im on the right track! and that ive got everything i need...Im just not 100% sure if i've got the correct fittings its always the part that confuses me. I want to have a drain line (i'll hide is as best i can). So any input you guys have would be awesome!

My credit card already hates me


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> @ BNEG/ KARLITOS
> 
> Is a 360 RAD good enough for 3 680 Classifieds and a CPU at 4.6ghz or should I add another 120 RAD for good measure?


No way a 360 will handle all that, i say you want 480 + 240.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> ok guys and girls its time for me to look at watercooling my toy.
> 
> Just planning stages at the moment. Below is the site im going through for parts (watercooling stuff isnt easy to get in melbourne)
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160
> 
> Ive got a phantom 410 case and have removed the hdd cage on bottom. Photos below
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently it supports a 240mm up front which is what i want. The 120mm rad im hoping to mount on the rear of the case as i want maximum cooling on my GPU (im only going to go a very mild OC if at all) so the main focus is to get my GPU underwater. I also plan on buying a 2nd and possibly 3rd 7970 so i want the headroom with the 240mm.
> 
> So the idea is res>240mm rad>pump>GPU>120mm rad>cpu>res
> 
> ^not 100% sure this is right order.
> 
> I am super noob at WC'ing and my last attempt (XSPC RASA 240 KIT) was a flop (faulty pump) and left a really sour taste in my mouth.
> 
> My idea for parts are below
> 
> Koolance CPU-380A CPU Water Block for AMD - $75.00
> Heatkiller GPU-X³ 79X0 Water Block Ni-Bl - $139.00
> Black Ice SR1 240 Radiator - $79.00
> Black Ice SR1 120 Radiator - $59.00
> XSPC D5 Vario Pump with Front Cover - $99.00
> XSPC Black Dual 5.25in Bay Reservoir Ball Front - $39.00
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Clear 1/2ID 3/4OD 10ft - $25.00
> Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White Rotary 1/2 Compression Fitting CC5 x 14 - $196
> Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White Sealing Plug x 3 - $18.00
> Bitspower T-Block Silver Shining x 1 - $12.00
> 
> Total - $741.00
> 
> Just want to make sure im on the right track! and that ive got everything i need...Im just not 100% sure if i've got the correct fittings its always the part that confuses me. I want to have a drain line (i'll hide is as best i can). So any input you guys have would be awesome!
> 
> My credit card already hates me


Just my









But change your rads for the XSPC EX equivalents, change the pump+res. for the XSPC D5 Dual bay combo. This would save you a few dollars and change them compression fittings for the Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White 1/2 Compression Fitting CC5 that alone will save you $70









You should only need one sealing plug, it goes on the bottom of the T piece. And my counting is you need only 13 compression fittings, if you go the D5 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump Combo

And half inch tube is good, but personally I find the 3/8"-5/8" is better for bending, there is that small an effect on performance (flow) that it can't be measure correctly.


----------



## w-moffatt

^^ but for the gpu block wont i need sealing plugs for the 2 ports that arent being used??

Also used one of those pump/res combos in the rasa kit and the pump was a dud, yes it is gunna save me a little cash but after my first experience i would prefer seperate...


----------



## _REAPER_

I went ahead and got the blocks for the GPUs.. Thanks to everyone for helping feed the addiction. I went ahead and purchase the crystal links from Bits-power with the fittings and back plates for the gpus. I already had one back plate so just got 2 more.

I am going to get one more 120 RAD and call it good.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> ^^ but for the gpu block wont i need sealing plugs for the 2 ports that arent being used??


Maybe someone who has used them can confirm, but it should come with the plugs









Most of the others do.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But change your rads for the XSPC EX equivalents, change the pump+res. for the XSPC D5 Dual bay combo. This would save you a few dollars and change them compression fittings for the Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White 1/2 Compression Fitting CC5 that alone will save you $70
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should only need one sealing plug, it goes on the bottom of the T piece. And my counting is you need only 13 compression fittings, if you go the D5 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump Combo
> 
> And half inch tube is good, but personally I find the 3/8"-5/8" is better for bending, there is that small an effect on performance (flow) that it can't be measure correctly.


firstly sorry for double posting but on my count i'd need 12 compression fittings? 2 for gpu, 2 for cpu, 2 for res, 4 for rads, 2 for t junction...

Also have i chosen the right block for my gpu, it says reference only how exactly do i tell?


----------



## ginger_nuts

check your GPU here:
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

and for the T line you need 3, one in two out.


----------



## w-moffatt

so you wouldnt use a sealing plug? instead run a bit of tube and run another compression fitting with sealing plug a the end? which would mean 14 would it not...sorry for all the Q's guys just wanna make sure i get this right!

ok sweet that website says its a ref design card...awesome


----------



## ginger_nuts

You have three compression fittings on the T block.

The bottom piece runs down to your plug, this is the one right. The plug fits into the tubing, and has a screw cap on it.

More questions you ask, the better chance you have in helping someone else.


----------



## w-moffatt

^ AHHHH that makes sense, So just need to confirm if the blocks for the GPU come with plugs or not cause if they do then ill only need the 1 plug!?


----------



## jbmayes2000

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Sure, its a promotional system for a gaming clan TCM Gaming and will be on show at Multiplay Insomnia LAN this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *System Spec:*
> CoolerMaster Cosmos II
> Coolermaster 1300W Hybrid PSU
> Asus Z9PE-D8 WS Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W s2011 CPU's
> GTX680 GPU's
> Kingston HyperX Predator 32GB Memory
> Kingston HyperX SSD's
> XSPC EX360
> XSPC EX240 Multiport x2
> XSPC Raystorm CPU + GPU Blocks
> XSPC Dual DDC Bay Res
> DDC Pumps
> Bitspower Fittings
> 7/16" Masterkleer Hose
> Thermochill FC6 Liquid
> Coolermaster120mm Fans






Dude you are the ****. I know you belong to a ton of websites and always get compliments but your SR-2 Stacker from the 2010 Coolermaster Contest was what got me started on all this. Are you a modern/contemporary furniture guy? Because all your builds are always slick and clean.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> my new rig
> Snef's Extremmme Red Demon
> 
> still WIP


Looking good









Any idea where the full Acrylic version of the BP reservoir (with the ends like the pic above) is available in Europe?

Specialtech has them, but with the black ends:

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-Z-Multi-250mm-Water-Tank-Reservoir--BP-WTZM250P-BK-pid-11461.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Had silver in a loop with nickel in for ages with no issues.
> This only came up after EKs awful prep work causing the flaking issues,koolance jumped on that wagon not long after...surprising that they are the only 2 with that in their instructions,Watercool,Aquacomputer,Swiftech,Alphacool,Phobya,MIPS.....none of these have nickel issues and have no problem with silver.


*THIS^^^*

Koolance have tried to distance themselves from nickel problems, but bottom line-they too have had major problems


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Haven't post this one
> 
> *You can enlarge them* (4320x3420)


Man that is one badass setup


----------



## Dyceskynes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> @ BNEG/ KARLITOS
> 
> Is a 360 RAD good enough for 3 680 Classifieds and a CPU at 4.6ghz or should I add another 120 RAD for good measure?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> No way a 360 will handle all that, i say you want 480 + 240.


I would agree I have a 3930K at 4.5 and two 680 Classifieds on water with a 360 + 180 with good temps but another classified would be pushing my setup.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyceskynes*
> 
> I would agree I have a 3930K at 4.5 and two 680 Classifieds on water with a 360 + 180 with good temps but another classified would be pushing my setup.


I am going to get another 140 rad for the back but that is all I can fit in the case. What are your temps on your setup Dyceskynes


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> New 6.2" touch screen fitted to the TCM Gaming Cosmos II rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Calibrating and generally messing about with a 6.2" Touch Screen in a Coolermaster Cosmos II_


Dude, all I can say ----



And Don't surprise your rig will be in PC Magazine eventually..


----------



## Dyceskynes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am going to get another 140 rad for the back but that is all I can fit in the case. What are your temps on your setup Dyceskynes


Idle: GPU:21C CPU:22C Running Heaven for an hour I was at GPU: 32C and CPU: 39C. XT45 180mm with AP182 push and RX360 with G15 push. I plan to run Prime 95 tonight

Before I added my cards I was getting up to CPU: 44C on prime 95 with a 360 Push Yates.


----------



## axipher

Well 3 of my 4 medium speed Yates have started to click above 8 V 

I haven't been following new fans lately but I'm looking for 4 new fans for Project Maple Leaf in my signature. I am running two 240 mm low FPI RAD's, one being double thickness.


----------



## smjxkab

H80i... it does the job well enough


----------



## canada2005

Got a new order from Dazmode today. Pic of rig it is going in and some hardware.
Aerocool Strike X-Air
Phobya 200mm + 240mm in the back possibly
2600k, Gigabyte Z77X-UD4H
Not using that ram just testing it (took the waterblock of them)
Waiting on an order for GTX 670





Limited Edition Dazmode EK Supreme LTX


----------



## tiborrr12

@canada2005: Ooo nice, I see you picked up Daz's custom EK-Supreme LTX water block.

This just in - *EK-FC Titan XXL incl. Backplate*


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> This just in - *EK-FC Titan XXL incl. Backplate*


Very nice. Simple and understated.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*


You are the only person I've seen that can consistently make colored LEDs look amazing. Usually it ends up looking way overdone, or even if done well they can look okay, but this is just gorgeous.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> You are the only person I've seen that can consistently make colored LEDs look amazing. Usually it ends up looking way overdone, or even if done well they can look okay, but this is just gorgeous.


I wished I could get my lighting to look half as good as his... Mine was so overwhelming a took the cathode out... Smdh


----------



## Lazy Bear

You just have to know where to saturate.


----------



## Michalius

And you do, definitely.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> @ BNEG/ KARLITOS
> 
> Is a 360 RAD good enough for 3 680 Classifieds and a CPU at 4.6ghz or should I add another 120 RAD for good measure?


I would consider 2 x 360 for all that







(1 x 360 and 1 x 240 can suffice with good water temps under load)

*Thanks for the comments guys*









(Yes its balloons, my cat doesn't like them, I found him behind my monitors yesterday







)


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> You just have to know where to saturate.


Why then dont you share some of your pearls of wisdom and experience to help?


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> You just have to know where to saturate.


You sure did that well


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Sure, its a promotional system for a gaming clan TCM Gaming and will be on show at Multiplay Insomnia LAN this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *System Spec:*
> CoolerMaster Cosmos II
> Coolermaster 1300W Hybrid PSU
> Asus Z9PE-D8 WS Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W s2011 CPU's
> GTX680 GPU's
> Kingston HyperX Predator 32GB Memory
> Kingston HyperX SSD's
> XSPC EX360
> XSPC EX240 Multiport x2
> XSPC Raystorm CPU + GPU Blocks
> XSPC Dual DDC Bay Res
> DDC Pumps
> Bitspower Fittings
> 7/16" Masterkleer Hose
> Thermochill FC6 Liquid
> Coolermaster120mm Fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude you are the ****. I know you belong to a ton of websites and always get compliments but your SR-2 Stacker from the 2010 Coolermaster Contest was what got me started on all this. Are you a modern/contemporary furniture guy? Because all your builds are always slick and clean.
Click to expand...

Qft.

Coolmiester is a good buddy of mine,he has hooked me up with people and produces stunning rigs.
He has been a source of inspiration for me,I love the clean style,anyone who has seen my work comments on how clean it is....you can blame him! XD
He can drink way more beer than me tho....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> @ BNEG/ KARLITOS
> 
> Is a 360 RAD good enough for 3 680 Classifieds and a CPU at 4.6ghz or should I add another 120 RAD for good measure?
> 
> 
> 
> I would consider 2 x 360 for all that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (1 x 360 and 1 x 240 can suffice with good water temps under load)
> 
> *Thanks for the comments guys*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Yes its balloons, my cat doesn't like them, I found him behind my monitors yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Also Qft.

Mod,can you merge with above.


----------



## bomberjun




----------



## AddictedGamer93

Question, lets say a certain someone wanted to cool an i7-3770 and two GTX 660 FTW's, would a 240 + 120 setup suffice? Using XSPC EX rads.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> Question, lets say a certain someone wanted to cool an i7-3770 and two GTX 660 FTW's, would a 240 + 120 setup suffice? Using XSPC EX rads.


The rule of thumb is 120mm of rad per block plus 120mm extra. I guess to break this rule it depends if OC'n is the pipelines!!!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The rule of thumb is 120mm of rad per block plus 120mm extra. I guess to break this rule it depends if OC'n is the pipelines!!!


^This
But also remember, this is OCN. No amount of rad is ever enough


----------



## iDurr

I'm actually looking to buy one, I just bought a reference 7970. If its a giveaway, i'll gladly take one off your hands!


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> Question, lets say a certain someone wanted to cool an i7-3770 and two GTX 660 FTW's, would a 240 + 120 setup suffice? Using XSPC EX rads.


MORE RAD!!!


----------



## Michalius

Depends on how quiet you want your system. The thing about that rule of thumb is that 360mm of radiator space with fans spinning at 2K+ could conceivably cool more than 600mm of rad space with fans that are spinning at 800.

Take a look at the rads you are interested in, see what kind of cooling capacity they have. You know how much heat in watts that your system puts out, so you should have a pretty good idea what your thermal limit is.


----------



## xxxaksxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> Question, lets say a certain someone wanted to cool an i7-3770 and two GTX 660 FTW's, would a 240 + 120 setup suffice? Using XSPC EX rads.


To put it in perspective, I have an i7-3770K OC'ed to 4.5GHz with two GTX 670 reference OC'ed in SLI with an XSPC EX240 and EX120 in one loop with 1/2" ID tubing and GELID Wing fans running at 1100rpm in push. With the CPU and the EX240 only in the loop under prime95 custom blend at 4.5GHz the maximum average temperature recorded was ~65C after ~19 hours. After an hour of running Heaven 4.0 on Extreme my GPU's are at ~40C and ~44C and my CPU has a maximum average temperature of ~53C with ambient temps of ~20C. Since I have put both GPUs under water and added the EX120 I have not done any extended prime95 custom blend runs except a short one hour run that brought my CPU to a maximum average temperature of ~69C.

I have never tried loading both GPU's to 100% and the CPU to 100% at the same time but I would bet that my temps would not be good and this is where the extra radiators would come in to help. Keep in mind that you may never encounter this scenario very often or never because it depends on what you do with your rig. I would love to have more rads but I don't want external rads as I want to keep the rig portable but If you can squeeze more rads, go for it!


----------



## RKTGX95

i just had the craziest ideas ever:
placing a very small tube reservoir between two GPUs (like a Crystal link).

only possible if using either the Bitspower 40mm tube res or the Koolance 30mm tube res. (and the fact i'm using an ASUS MoBo that has the famous dual spacing)
i know it would be problematic not only by the mere possibility of it but also the weight problem and lack of support that might happen


Spoiler: pictures for visualization




















Any thoughts?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i just had the craziest ideas ever:
> placing a very small tube reservoir between two GPUs (like a Crystal link).
> 
> only possible if using either the Bitspower 40mm tube res or the Koolance 30mm tube res. (and the fact i'm using an ASUS MoBo that has the famous dual spacing)
> i know it would be problematic not only by the mere possibility of it but also the weight problem and lack of support that might happen
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pictures for visualization
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?


To do what, specifically? Are you meaning GPU-res-GPU?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> To do what, specifically? Are you meaning GPU-res-GPU?


Yup.
Technically there isn't anything bad about doing it loop wise (essentially it would be like a wide crystal link to the loop). the question is how well could that be pulled of and how problematic it could be.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Yup.
> Technically there isn't anything bad about doing it loop wise (essentially it would be like a wide crystal link to the loop). the question is how well could that be pulled of and how problematic it could be.


Off the top of my head, putting a low restriction item that would need a massive amount of flow to move fluid through between two blocks sounds like a terrible idea. I'm not any kind of expert on fluid dynamics, but I bet money that while it might look cool it isn't going to work anywhere like you expect it to.


----------



## Goose194

Finished watercooling.


----------



## itz.clint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goose194*
> 
> Finished watercooling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice setup mate, not a fan of the red lighting tho. Will have to get around to uploading some pics of mine soon when I get time.


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Off the top of my head, putting a low restriction item that would need a massive amount of flow to move fluid through between two blocks sounds like a terrible idea. I'm not any kind of expert on fluid dynamics, but I bet money that while it might look cool it isn't going to work anywhere like you expect it to.


Actually the only issue would be water being more still in it. Otherwise would not affect performance at all.


----------



## skyn3t

for a small build a XSPC RS240 push pull and XSPC RS360 push should cool one 25k cpu block RayStorm and 670 GPU block koolance right?

CPU : 2500k
MOBO : Asrock z77 mini itx
PSU: Corsair TX 650W custom paracord sleeve black
Block : Xspc raystorm
GPU: GTX 670
Block: Koolance VID-NX680
Memory : CORSAIR XMS3 8GB
Rad: xpcrs 240mm slim
Rad: xpcrs 360mm slim
Fan: Two Yate's 120mm Red fan led
Tree: HD
One : SSD


----------



## Goose194

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itz.clint*
> 
> Nice setup mate, not a fan of the red lighting tho. Will have to get around to uploading some pics of mine soon when I get time.


haha yeah the red lighting is over powering, it looked good for the first couple of weeks, after that i added an on/off switch, allowing the GPU blocks red led to stand out, which does look a lot better in my opinion.

Edit:


----------



## itz.clint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goose194*
> 
> haha yeah the red lighting is over powering, it looked good for the first couple of weeks, after that i added an on/off switch, allowing the GPU blocks red led to stand out, which does look a lot better in my opinion.


I have white cold cathodes in mine which are good since its a neutral colour, lights the case up showing the components without an eyesore haha.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> for a small build a XSPC RS240 push pull and XSPC RS360 push should cool one 25k cpu block RayStorm and 670 GPU block koolance right?
> 
> CPU : 2500k
> MOBO : Asrock z77 mini itx
> PSU: Corsair TX 650W custom paracord sleeve black
> Block : Xspc raystorm
> GPU: GTX 670
> Block: Koolance VID-NX680
> Memory : CORSAIR XMS3 8GB
> Rad: xpcrs 240mm slim
> Rad: xpcrs 360mm slim
> Fan: Two Yate's 120mm Red fan led
> Tree: HD
> One : SSD


A 240 and 360 for one CPU and one GPU? Plenty, overkill really. But, might as well go with both rads for future expansion.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lookin for some advice!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1373501/buying-this-tomorrow-good-bad-what-am-i-thinking


& I almost bought this case, glad I went with the 650D


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lookin for some advice!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1373501/buying-this-tomorrow-good-bad-what-am-i-thinking


First you need to fix all your funk cable.


----------



## itz.clint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> A 240 and 360 for one CPU and one GPU? Plenty, overkill really. But, might as well go with both rads for future expansion.


Well I have a RX360 for my cpu, chipset and an RX360 for tri 7970 setup. More is never enough but you can only reach delta.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itz.clint*
> 
> Well I have a RX360 for my cpu, chipset and an RX360 for tri 7970 setup. More is never enough but you can only reach delta.


I have a Feser X-Changer *480, 360 and 240* for CPU, MOSFET, PCH, Quad 7970s and I have delta of 7-8'C during game.

I would like Delta of 3-5'C but don't have anymore room for another rad.

Idle has a delta of 1-2'C.


----------



## wermad

I have three monsta rads, its way more then i need


----------



## itz.clint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I have a Feser X-Changer *480, 360 and 240* for CPU, MOSFET, PCH, Quad 7970s and I have delta of 7-8'C during game.
> 
> I would like Delta of 3-5'C but don't have anymore room for another rad.
> 
> Idle has a delta of 1-2'C.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have three monsta rads, its way more then i need


Very nice, well Im sure I have enough rad from my single loop setup lol. Bet those are heavy cases, mines heavy enough was thinking of making a base with castor wheels so I didn't have to lift it anymore and can just wheel it.


----------



## _REAPER_

Just wanting to do some checking to ensure this is the correct way to run parallel on my GPUs


----------



## superericla

Yes, that's how you run them in parallel.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itz.clint*
> 
> Very nice, well Im sure I have enough rad from my single loop setup lol. Bet those are heavy cases, mines heavy enough was thinking of making a base with castor wheels so I didn't have to lift it anymore and can just wheel it.


I think I'm well over 50lbs. More likely, 75lbs for this beast







. I do have mine on castors and on the floor. Its a pita to lift it and place it on my desk when i need to work on it.


----------



## itz.clint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think I'm well over 50lbs. More likely, 75lbs for this beast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I do have mine on castors and on the floor. Its a pita to lift it and place it on my desk when i need to work on it.


Just work on it at floor level that's what it was put on castors for, saves heavy lifting unless you have back problems then its another story. Mine would be atleast 40-50kg since its got about 2.5 litres of water easily my old case was 25kg on its own.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itz.clint*
> 
> Just work on it at floor level that's what it was put on castors for, saves heavy lifting unless you have back problems then its another story. Mine would be atleast 40-50kg since its got about 2.5 litres of water easily my old case was 25kg on its own.


Wow, over 100lbs! I'll have to weigh mine when i get a chance







. I'm using a bit under one US Gallon (~3.73L).


----------



## itz.clint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, over 100lbs! I'll have to weigh mine when i get a chance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm using a bit under one US Gallon (~3.73L).


I think my reservoir holds about 500 mL of water just on its own, then you have the water in the loop, hardware, blocks, rads plus the case maybe I over estimated but yeah prob close to if not over 40kg.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itz.clint*
> 
> Well I have a RX360 for my cpu, chipset and an RX360 for tri 7970 setup. More is never enough but you can only reach delta.


you lie, a bong can get to 0 degrees Celsius if done right.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *itz.clint*
> 
> Well I have a RX360 for my cpu, chipset and an RX360 for tri 7970 setup. More is never enough but you can only reach delta.
> 
> 
> 
> you lie, a bong can get to 0 degrees Celsius if done right.
Click to expand...

He isn't talking about bong cooling and I doubt very much that a bong cooler can reach 0c without a chiller being involved,you will not get below ambient without a chiller,tec or phase unit.

Please refrain from calling members liars,especially when what you say is irrelevant to the post.


----------



## tiborrr12

Besides the four EK-FC Titan water blocks and the upcoming XXL version (which will include backplate) we now also offer the Original CSQ version: http://bit.ly/167mmSh


----------



## bomberjun

CM cosmos 2. Dual loop. Dual mcp 655 with bp modkit and top 360 rad x2, 240, 120.

2600k, evga 680 sc tri sli, z68x ud7, 2000mhz dominator gt.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Besides the four EK-FC Titan water blocks and the upcoming XXL version (which will include backplate) we now also offer the Original CSQ version: http://bit.ly/167mmSh


Nice block, really love that design.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, over 100lbs! I'll have to weigh mine when i get a chance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm using a bit under one US Gallon (~3.73L).


Mine must weigh around 100 lbs too


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He isn't talking about bong cooling and I doubt very much that a bong cooler can reach 0c without a chiller being involved,you will not get below ambient without a chiller,tec or phase unit.
> 
> Please refrain from calling members liars,especially when what you say is irrelevant to the post.


I'm not calling this guy a liar but he is def.using wrong terminology...Delta is not ambient.
as soon as you see delta..you are subtracting and/or dividing also.
delta is a comparison of the final result to the initial (Measure of change). (delta T -= T2-T1)
so yeah. delta is not ambient..you got it right B NEGATIVE when you said
ambient..
anyways that's my 2 cents..lol..just see alot of people saying delta when
they should say ambient. delta makes no sense really..
you can never reach below delta..
aka. you can never reach below a measurement of change?..
does not make sense. to me.
maybe i'm wrong to..but i dont think so.


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I'm not calling this guy a liar but he is def.using wrong terminology...Delta is not ambient.
> as soon as you see delta..you are subtracting and/or dividing also.
> delta is a comparison of the final result to the initial (Measure of change). (delta T -= T2-T1)
> so yeah. delta is not ambient..you got it right B NEGATIVE when you said
> ambient..
> anyways that's my 2 cents..lol..just see alot of people saying delta when
> they should say ambient. delta makes no sense really..
> you can never reach below delta..
> aka. you can never reach below a measurement of change?..
> does not make sense. to me.
> maybe i'm wrong to..but i dont think so.


Makes sense


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Off the top of my head, putting a low restriction item that would need a massive amount of flow to move fluid through between two blocks sounds like a terrible idea. I'm not any kind of expert on fluid dynamics, but I bet money that while it might look cool it isn't going to work anywhere like you expect it to.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> Actually the only issue would be water being more still in it. Otherwise would not affect performance at all.


thanks for the feedback. so i assume that other than the still problem there shouldn't be anything affecting the loop itself.

any thoughts on support and structural strength of the scenario?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Besides the four EK-FC Titan water blocks and the upcoming XXL version (which will include backplate) we now also offer the Original CSQ version: http://bit.ly/167mmSh
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


firstly, i know it wasn't intentional (?) but the block got a look that reminds a little a fish.

secondly, is it possible that EK might re-release the current 7970 & 680 blocks in the Titan blocks style? (and thus both camps are pleased. the CSQ camp and the Anti-CSQ camp)
i know it is a long shot for that to happen but considering we aren't getting a new gen of cards at least till August (depends on Nvidia mostly) it could still be viable.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

oh and a few people have asked me about making a build log
for my current "work in progress" build.
i put one up last week and will update more today.
i forget who it was but hopefully you read this..lol.


----------



## _REAPER_

Thank you to everyone who helped me decide to get another 360 RAD for my build. I am going to get another Aquacomputer 360 RAD once I get my KUYA to measure the available space in the HAF X. I dont like to put rads outside the case so measure twice cut once lol.


----------



## XerTo

http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=230320132270bhp1k.jpg

http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=230320132273p0ras.jpg

http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=230320132275hqrs1.jpg


----------



## XgenZeepee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XerTo*
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=230320132270bhp1k.jpg


Very nice!!!! Those light effects feeling from a refrigerator...

Finish it soon and POST MOARRRR after you finished it!


----------



## DarkX9109

Finally after years of looking at water cooled rigs on this site, I have done my own. Here is my contribution to the thread.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> secondly, is it possible that EK might re-release the current 7970 & 680 blocks in the Titan blocks style? (and thus both camps are pleased. the CSQ camp and the Anti-CSQ camp)
> i know it is a long shot for that to happen but considering we aren't getting a new gen of cards at least till August (depends on Nvidia mostly) it could still be viable.


Tiborr mentioned something about EK working on non-CSQ 7970/680 blocks a while back...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He isn't talking about bong cooling and I doubt very much that a bong cooler can reach 0c without a chiller being involved,you will not get below ambient without a chiller,tec or phase unit.
> 
> Please refrain from calling members liars,especially when what you say is irrelevant to the post.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not calling this guy a liar but he is def.using wrong terminology...Delta is not ambient.
> as soon as you see delta..you are subtracting and/or dividing also.
> delta is a comparison of the final result to the initial (Measure of change). (delta T -= T2-T1)
> so yeah. delta is not ambient..you got it right B NEGATIVE when you said
> ambient..
> anyways that's my 2 cents..lol..just see alot of people saying delta when
> they should say ambient. delta makes no sense really..
> you can never reach below delta..
> aka. you can never reach below a measurement of change?..
> does not make sense. to me.
> maybe i'm wrong to..but i dont think so.
Click to expand...

You are not wrong in the slightest,I saw the error and corrected it in my head,I see it a lot also..so much so that it doesn't even register.


----------



## PwndN00b

Teaser....


Finally got all my parts, and had some time to get it together.


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XerTo*
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=230320132270bhp1k.jpg


Tastefully done,! Bravo, sir!


----------



## Liqu1dShadow




----------



## Systemlord

Been a while guys, does anybody know if baking soda in your loop will harm your nickel plated components? The reason I ask is because I wanted to get my pH level up to within Mayham's 5.5 to 8.5 being neutral and I had to add baking soda to raise the pH level from being acidic. My bottled water in my area is showing my pH to be at four this is why I had to add the baking soda to up it to the two around 6 PH level.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He isn't talking about bong cooling and I doubt very much that a bong cooler can reach 0c without a chiller being involved,you will not get below ambient without a chiller,tec or phase unit.
> 
> Please refrain from calling members liars,especially when what you say is irrelevant to the post.


sorry for calling him a liar, you should do your research first, because bongs/volentis can get to 0 degrees, (possibly lower if you used a different liquid to water).


----------



## WebsterXC

I'm thinking about doing a small green/white build. Could anyone post pictures/links to builds with this scheme? Thanks


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*


Nice work here.
Can you tell me one thing ?

These standoffs look like they are not attached to the rest of metal cover.
This gives a possibility of chip cooler removal and replacing it with universal waterblocks(while maintaining VRM and memory cooling with solid metal plate).
So can you check if they are removable ?


----------



## RombieFitch

Here is my Everything Rig.. I have built five computer total but this was my first introduction to water cooling. I will eventually add another radiator at the bottom and water cool my video card.


----------



## siffonen

I`m planning on replacing my ex240 rad with a 120 rad, i am also adding my second gtx 680 into loop, so which rad would be good for me:
Phobya G-Changer 120 V2
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 120
EK-Waterblocks Ek-CoolStream Rad XTX 120
Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Full Copper 120

I`m looking for a rad with good performance, and i will use a GT-15 push/pull.
Monsta would probably be best performing, but would it look a bit stupid with 2 fans, and how would the piping go to cpu block


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I`m planning on replacing my ex240 rad with a 120 rad, i am also adding my second gtx 680 into loop, so which rad would be good for me:
> Phobya G-Changer 120 V2
> Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 120
> EK-Waterblocks Ek-CoolStream Rad XTX 120
> Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Full Copper 120
> 
> I`m looking for a rad with good performance, and i will use a GT-15 push/pull.
> Monsta would probably be best performing, but would it look a bit stupid with 2 fans, and how would the piping go to cpu block


If your adding more to the loop, wouldn't it be smarted to go from a 240 to a bigger 240/360?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I'm thinking about doing a small green/white build. Could anyone post pictures/links to builds with this scheme? Thanks





Spoiler: Does this help?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I'm thinking about doing a small green/white build. Could anyone post pictures/links to builds with this scheme? Thanks


Mine is green and white: pics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Does this help?


I like this, very clean!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XerTo*
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=230320132270bhp1k.jpg
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=230320132273p0ras.jpg
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=230320132275hqrs1.jpg


loop is so awesome the blue motherboard is practically invisible. so few can achieve this (actually only you that i've seen thus far without placing something to hide the board directly)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Tiborr mentioned something about EK working on non-CSQ 7970/680 blocks a while back...










i guess the "working' was implemented first on the Titan and the 7970/680 blocks should have the same design as the non-CSQ Titan blocks. (best argument for it is the new FC bridges for titan since EK is known for Bridge multi comparability and won't do bridges for only one card, hopefully)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Teaser....
> 
> 
> Finally got all my parts, and had some time to get it together.


small tubing love it. (looking for something between awesome and cute to describe this masterpiece)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The level 10GT is a great case with some love, and this is another proof of it. great build







(and so many people are getting my board lately







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RombieFitch*
> 
> Here is my Everything Rig.. I have built five computer total but this was my first introduction to water cooling. I will eventually add another radiator at the bottom and water cool my video card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Does this help?


as i previously said, those black and yellow cables compliment the overall look and fit well with the mobo color. (and now after some thinking, it is like Green -> military green shade -> yellow)

/long multi quote reply


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I'm thinking about doing a small green/white build. Could anyone post pictures/links to builds with this scheme? Thanks


There's been a few the past couple pages. Hmm went back a while and for white and green the most recent and well done one was pointed out above.

Scorpion49's is the main one I was thinking of


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Teaser....
> 
> 
> Finally got all my parts, and had some time to get it together.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


There has been so many great clean looking build recently
thumbs up guys!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*


Man that tubing is what I call a perfect bend


----------



## khemist

I use tygon e1000 and with pastel (yellow + white and emerald green+pastel there is no staining on the tubing or blocks.







I can only say about this tubing that it is working for me perfectly!. (3/8" 5/8")


----------



## Deaam

Final photos of my 100% finished mod:


----------



## Fonne

Is there any EU shop that sells the Swiftech D5 PWM drive ?

Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=g30c107s1802


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> If your adding more to the loop, wouldn't it be smarted to go from a 240 to a bigger 240/360?


Well yeah, but bigger 240 or 360 wont fit nicely to this case. Current 240 didnt affect my temps when i added it, but now i`m going to add second 680, and a 120 would look nicer than current 240, i would keep this 240 if i had a better case, like 900D


----------



## _REAPER_

Surgery on my case is starting today so I can fit another 360 rad in the front of my HAF X. Thanks to everyone for the guidance, and as Karlitos has done with his pc GO BIG OR GO HOME lol.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deaam*
> 
> Final photos of my 100% finished mod:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that's a really neat build, I like how you've gone with a small form factor that we don't see much these days









Is there a GPU in there?


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any EU shop that sells the Swiftech D5 PWM drive ?
> 
> Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=g30c107s1802


The PWM Drive was co-designed with and made especially for FrozenCPU. They're the only ones who carry it.


----------



## Deaam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Wow that's a really neat build, I like how you've gone with a small form factor that we don't see much these days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a GPU in there?


Sadly there arent so much small watercooled builds..









And yeah, this is my main gaming rig with following specs:

-i5-3570k
-GTX670
-4Gb ram
-60Gb SSD
-H61 Board for now
-Silverstone SFX psu, modular 80+ Plus gold

Cooled by Phobya 140radiator, EK Dcp 2.2 pump, Ek supreme LTX, Alphacool HF-14, Radiator push pull fans are silverstone ap141 and akasa apache.

Max. [email protected] BF3 with surround setup for gpu 48c and cpu 50c (Fans runnind at 500-600 RPM and pump at 900rpm)


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> There has been so many great clean looking build recently
> thumbs up guys!
> Man that tubing is what I call a perfect bend


Thanks Fella


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Will a 360 rad & 240 rad, be enough to cool a 3970x (I think that is the extreme i7 cpu?), 4 GTX 670 (via Universal SLI plate) (Or 2, 690, if i decide to sell my current 670's) a Maximus x79, and 2 ram coolers, in a Cosmos 2? This will be my future setup, which will be completed in 13-15 months.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Will a 360 rad & 240 rad, be enough to cool a 3970x (I think that is the extreme i7 cpu?), 4 GTX 670 (via Universal SLI plate) (Or 2, 690, if i decide to sell my current 670's) a Maximus x79, and 2 ram coolers, in a Cosmos 2? This will be my future setup, which will be completed in 13-15 months.


Usually the rule of thumb is 120mm of rad per component. In this case you have a cpu and 4 gpuz. Two 360s would be minimum imo. Two 480mm would be ideal.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Thanks Fella


I've just realized that we have a similar components
and from what I see in your rig details you're only using a single 240 rad?
hows the temp?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Will a 360 rad & 240 rad, be enough to cool a 3970x (I think that is the extreme i7 cpu?), 4 GTX 670 (via Universal SLI plate) (Or 2, 690, if i decide to sell my current 670's) a Maximus x79, and 2 ram coolers, in a Cosmos 2? This will be my future setup, which will be completed in 13-15 months.


I went with 2 360 rads for 3 680 classifieds and a 3970x.


----------



## khemist

delete


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> The PWM Drive was co-designed with and made especially for FrozenCPU. They're the only ones who carry it.


Dammit, the price after shipping and taxes to Denmark is going to be way higher than the normal version ...

Looks like I will get the Alphacool VPP655 Single Edition, hope its going to be a nice pump


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Dammit, the price after shipping and taxes to Denmark is going to be way higher than the normal version ...
> 
> Looks like I will get the Alphacool VPP655 Single Edition, hope its going to be a nice pump


I have an Alphacool VPP655 and honestly it's a fantastic pump. I see no need for the PWM version on the D5 pump to be honest. At least, I don't think that the massive price difference justifies purchasing it over the variable speed swiftech.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

i'm finally finish with InWin GRone build


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> The PWM Drive was co-designed with and made especially for FrozenCPU. They're the only ones who carry it.


Performance pc's has them, so they aren't that proprietary.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=36120

I like them better than my 35X's because they don't need the extra heatsink and run so much cooler.

As a nice feature, with no PWM signal, they run at 60% of max RPM instead of maxxed out as the 35X's do.

And of course the MOD Kits fit them so they can be made to look really nice.

Darlene


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i'm finally finish with InWin GRone build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those Bitspower crystal links or did you use tubes for your gpus


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Performance pc's has them, so they aren't that proprietary.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=36120
> 
> I like them better than my 35X's because they don't need the extra heatsink and run so much cooler.
> 
> As a nice feature, with no PWM signal, they run at 60% of max RPM instead of maxxed out as the 35X's do.
> 
> And of course the MOD Kits fit them so they can be made to look really nice.
> 
> Darlene


Frozen supplies Performance PC's with them. I mean I suppose you are correct though, thanks for correcting me









Unfortunately that doesn't help him any more, since the taxes and customs from the America's to Denmark are high. I'm surprised Swiftech doesn't market these in the EU.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Usually the rule of thumb is 120mm of rad per component. In this case you have a cpu and 4 gpuz. Two 360s would be minimum imo. Two 480mm would be ideal.


hmm. 480 x2 won't fit the stock cosmos. But... A 200mm, and a 120(or 140)mm rad as well, fit the need?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i'm finally finish with InWin GRone build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those Bitspower crystal links or did you use tubes for your gpus
> 
> 
> 
> yes they are bitspower crystal links... i love using them man especially when you need to make small connections they come in handy.
Click to expand...


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I've just realized that we have a similar components
> and from what I see in your rig details you're only using a single 240 rad?
> hows the temp?


Amb 21oC (water cooling sensor hung out the back of the PC









4.4Ghz
CPU Idle 6oC over ambient (27oC)
CPU 100% 38oC over ambient (59oC)

Water temps are always 5oC above the ambient temps

Not seen it go past 64oC yet,


----------



## ledzepp3

Sign me up for this club







didn't get pics posted of my last rig, but here's my most recent one- "Big Red"







pics taken on a Samsung NX1000


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Sign me up for this club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> didn't get pics posted of my last rig, but here's my most recent one- "Big Red"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pics taken on a Samsung NX1000
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice rig! I like the I <3 OCZ sticker


----------



## ledzepp3

Thanks







I'm actually not satisfied with it so I'm grabbing a CaseLabs SMH10 and going supreme overkill







can't wait to post pics of that when it's done


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm actually not satisfied with it so I'm grabbing a CaseLabs SMH10 and going supreme overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't wait to post pics of that when it's done


You won't be disappointed, my SM8 is the best case I have ever owned by a long shot.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

ill like my Level10GT, its not for everyone but I love it


----------



## pc-illiterate

i have a question voodoo. does it look possible to remove the side window and mesh it with some aftermarket mesh?


----------



## bomberjun

Ongoing project.

LaFerrari


----------



## natsu2014

Almost done. Just waiting for another 670


----------



## Shogon

One down, one more to go! <3 Cu


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Frozen supplies Performance PC's with them. I mean I suppose you are correct though, thanks for correcting me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately that doesn't help him any more, since the taxes and customs from the America's to Denmark are high. I'm surprised Swiftech doesn't market these in the EU.


Aquatuning.de, watercoolinguk.co.uk, specialtech.co.uk, Caseking,de, highflow.nl + more and nobody here in EU sells them, really a shame ... Looks like it going to be the Alphacool VPP655 then.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i have a question voodoo. does it look possible to remove the side window and mesh it with some aftermarket mesh?


yes you can...the original window that the case came with was held in place by 8 motherboard screws... so if you find mesh big enough to replace the side panel, you can easily drill so holes in the mesh screw down in the existing screws holes on the panel hope this helps


----------



## snef

Hi

finally, my finished rig
Extremmmme Red Demon Build Log


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> yes you can...the original window that the case came with was held in place by 8 motherboard screws... so if you find mesh big enough to replace the side panel, you can easily drill so holes in the mesh screw down in the existing screws holes on the panel hope this helps


sure does, helps a lot. i would personally want more airflow rather than all my intake air come from the 240 rads. i see a new case in my future.
A.C. Ryan MeshxPanel™ 500x500mm - Black, hehe. that should work to make a side panel from. actually perfornce pc has a few different kinds of mesh.

thanks:thumb:


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> finally, my finished rig
> Extremmmme Red Demon Build Log
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks freakin amazing. I like the red LED's in the blocks so much.


----------



## kpforce1

Wow!! So many awesome builds in here! I really have to quit not reading updated posts for a few days.... way to much to catch up on







I have an update on my hybrid coold titans for my Force1 build:

Trying to figure out the ambient lighting inside of the cards:


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Wow!! So many awesome builds in here! I really have to quit not reading updated posts for a few days.... way to much to catch up on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an update on my hybrid coold titans for my Force1 build:
> 
> Trying to figure out the ambient lighting inside of the cards:






You sir... You owe me a new set of pants







that card is.. beautiful..


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Wow!! So many awesome builds in here! I really have to quit not reading updated posts for a few days.... way to much to catch up on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an update on my hybrid coold titans for my Force1 build:
> 
> Trying to figure out the ambient lighting inside of the cards:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome..just awesome...30 Helens agree...Awesome







Love the mod.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> finally, my finished rig
> Extremmmme Red Demon Build Log


This is quite clearly fake because nothing on the planet looks this good lol, I'm now going to the bathroom with some tissues and an A to Z to find out where you live after I have finished, amazing beyond words!!!


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deaam*
> 
> Sadly there arent so much small watercooled builds..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah, this is my main gaming rig with following specs:
> 
> -i5-3570k
> -GTX670
> -4Gb ram
> -60Gb SSD
> -H61 Board for now
> -Silverstone SFX psu, modular 80+ Plus gold
> 
> Cooled by Phobya 140radiator, EK Dcp 2.2 pump, Ek supreme LTX, Alphacool HF-14, Radiator push pull fans are silverstone ap141 and akasa apache.
> 
> Max. [email protected] BF3 with surround setup for gpu 48c and cpu 50c (Fans runnind at 500-600 RPM and pump at 900rpm)


That's really neat and cute haha, It's something we don't see much these days. That's some pretty good specs too, I have often wondered about doing a small build, probably much cheaper too.
Maybe I'll do one after my massive 900D build that should be coming up soon.


----------



## IT Diva

Bitspower really needs to start making these dual res adapter blocks for the dual D5 pump tops.

These suckers are a whole frickin' shedload of work, wayyy more than it appears, but damn they look cool . . . .

and make another one of a kind mod on my buiild.

Now I need to order more parts so I can build out the res setups . . . triple loops; red, white & blue










Darlene







Here is an initial test run and a look at how they all plumb up:


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Bitspower really needs to start making these dual res adapter blocks for the dual D5 pump tops.
> 
> These suckers are a whole frickin' shedload of work, wayyy more than it appears, but damn they look cool . . . .
> 
> and make another one of a kind mod on my buiild.
> 
> Now I need to order more parts so I can build out the res setups . . . triple loops; red, white & blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Redundancy is a good thing, as Martha Stewart would say


----------



## owikh84




----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> img]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1369693/[/img]


Absolutely beautiful. It looks like you have dual loops. Single 480 and D5 for GPU's and dual 480's and dual D5's for CPU and mobo?


----------



## owikh84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Absolutely beautiful. It looks like you have dual loops. Single 480 and D5 for GPU's and dual 480's and dual D5's for CPU and mobo?


Thank you.
Yes, it is a dual loop setup and you are right.

1st loop (CPU):
EK-Supreme HF Plexi-Nickel
EK-M5E Acetal-Nickel
Swiftech MCP655 X2
EK-D5 Dual Top (Single Loop) Black Acetal
XSPC RX480 Quad Radiator X2
Scythe GT AP-15 1850rpm X8
EK-Multioptions X2 250 Advanced

2nd loop (GPUs):
EK-FC7970 Plexi-Nickel X3
Swiftech MCP655
EK-D5 X-Top Black Acetal
Feser TFC X-Changer 480 Quad Radiator X1
Scythe GT AP-15 1850rpm X8
EK-Multioptions X2 250 Advanced

PrimoFlex 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Tubing (Clear)
EK-EKoolant Blood Red


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> Thank you.
> Yes, it is a dual loop setup and you are right.
> 
> 1st loop (CPU):
> EK-Supreme HF Plexi-Nickel
> EK-M5E Acetal-Nickel
> Swiftech MCP655 X2
> EK-D5 Dual Top (Single Loop) Black Acetal
> XSPC RX480 Quad Radiator X2
> Scythe GT AP-15 1850rpm X8
> EK-Multioptions X2 250 Advanced
> 
> 2nd loop (GPUs):
> EK-FC7970 Plexi-Nickel X3
> EK-D5 X-Top Black Acetal
> Feser TFC X-Changer 480 Quad Radiator X1
> Scythe GT AP-15 1850rpm X8
> EK-Multioptions X2 250 Advanced
> 
> PrimoFlex 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Tubing (Clear)
> EK-EKoolant Blood Red


Thats a beastly setup, but why more radiators on the loop with much less heat?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> Thank you.
> Yes, it is a dual loop setup and you are right.
> 
> 1st loop (CPU):
> EK-Supreme HF Plexi-Nickel
> EK-M5E Acetal-Nickel
> Swiftech MCP655 X2
> EK-D5 Dual Top (Single Loop) Black Acetal
> XSPC RX480 Quad Radiator X2
> Scythe GT AP-15 1850rpm X8
> EK-Multioptions X2 250 Advanced
> 
> 2nd loop (GPUs):
> EK-FC7970 Plexi-Nickel X3
> EK-D5 X-Top Black Acetal
> Feser TFC X-Changer 480 Quad Radiator X1
> Scythe GT AP-15 1850rpm X8
> EK-Multioptions X2 250 Advanced
> 
> PrimoFlex 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Tubing (Clear)
> EK-EKoolant Blood Red


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Thats a beastly setup, but why more radiators on the loop with much less heat?


I was wondering the same thing. I would have thought single radiator for the CPU and mobo loop and dual radiators for the GPU loop. Not really an issue if you get good temps on everything though.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> finally, my finished rig
> Extremmmme Red Demon Build Log
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


amazing build







(it's like you knew what i want to achieve







, just with matt black fittings instead black chrome)

love the effect of the Bitfenix fans in the front, i hope they don't light up the internals too much (i.e. beyond wanted)

also, does the picture do any justice or 2 LEDs (single set) per block is enough?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Wow!! So many awesome builds in here! I really have to quit not reading updated posts for a few days.... way to much to catch up on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an update on my hybrid coold titans for my Force1 build:
> 
> Trying to figure out the ambient lighting inside of the cards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


as similarly stated before, you owe me a new monitor







(soft drinks are no good for monitors







)

checked your log and really loved your solution for a 90 degree turn. as for lights, i think it should either be the color of your main scheme or the second color of your scheme (e.g. one main color and second for contrast or two color theme) or just go on white which almost always works no matter what.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quick question hope someone knows the answer to.
What is the TPI (thread per inch) count on a standard
G1/4" fitting. i'm looking to buy a tap but not sure
what the TPI is of the standard PC G1/4 fitting.
i believe it is 19 but i just want to make sure.
have to tap/thread the top of my frozenq
res.
hope someone can help .


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Amb 21oC (water cooling sensor hung out the back of the PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.4Ghz
> CPU Idle 6oC over ambient (27oC)
> CPU 100% 38oC over ambient (59oC)
> 
> Water temps are always 5oC above the ambient temps
> 
> Not seen it go past 64oC yet,


thats a decent temp


----------



## icemanTM

Slightly different attempt


----------



## owikh84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Thats a beastly setup, but why more radiators on the loop with much less heat?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing. I would have thought single radiator for the CPU and mobo loop and dual radiators for the GPU loop. Not really an issue if you get good temps on everything though.


My CPU 3770K is overclocked to 5.0GHz @ 1.48v and hitting 90C on stability tests ie. LinX/IBT & Prime95.

The trifire 7970 will not hit 80C even they are overclocked to 1300MHz/1750MHz.

GPUs dissipate more efficient than CPU. The same loop setup i used for my previous platform, the 3960X + Asus Rampage IV Extreme that were hotter than this delidded Ivy.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> amazing build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (it's like you knew what i want to achieve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just with matt black fittings instead black chrome)
> 
> love the effect of the Bitfenix fans in the front, i hope they don't light up the internals too much (i.e. beyond wanted)
> 
> also, does the picture do any justice or 2 LEDs (single set) per block is enough?
> as similarly stated before, you owe me a new monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (soft drinks are no good for monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thanks

The bitfenix fan are just the right light i need,
Spedialy with black ronded grill

And for led, i have 4 led per block ( 2 set of 2)
They are behind fittings on all pics


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemanTM*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slightly different attempt


Very clean!
more pics, more pics, more pics


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> The bitfenix fan are just the right light i need,
> Spedialy with black ronded grill
> 
> And for led, i have 4 led per block ( 2 set of 2)
> They are behind fittings on all pics


what i meant is that to me 2 LED per block could have suffice but then again no matter how good of a photographer you are you can't capture the light effect that you see in person. (and black fan grills rock







)


----------



## kroks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemanTM*


best mouse ever ^^
nice rig


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemanTM*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slightly different attempt


Love the res/pump combo, what is that? :O


----------



## bocko57

My 1st water cooled machine. I learned a lot from this 1st build. My largest mistake was buying a block that did not fit my GPU. According to the site is should have fit. So the FYI is a Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 does not fit a HeatKiller 79X0 GPU block. Since I could not add the GPU to the mix, it is a fairly simple loop with just the CPU. Here are some pictures.

I had to do a 2 to 3 Push/Pull RAD because the 1st Push Fan would be sitting right on the CPU plug on the motherboard. And the loop passed the 24 hr loop test too. The longest 24 hrs of my life.









[IMG


And thanks to all who provide me with tons of technical support to get this up and running.
Bocko


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Wow!! So many awesome builds in here! I really have to quit not reading updated posts for a few days.... way to much to catch up on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an update on my hybrid coold titans for my Force1 build:
> 
> Trying to figure out the ambient lighting inside of the cards:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Starting to look very awesome!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!







Is that a Little Devil case? Bneg might mess himself once he catches that!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemanTM*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slightly different attempt


Super clean!


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Wow!! So many awesome builds in here! I really have to quit not reading updated posts for a few days.... way to much to catch up on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an update on my hybrid coold titans for my Force1 build:
> 
> Trying to figure out the ambient lighting inside of the cards:


coolest mod on gpu ever..... ..


----------



## owikh84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Starting to look very awesome!
> Very nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a Little Devil case? Bneg might mess himself once he catches that!
> Super clean!


Yes it's the LDPC V8 Reversed.
It is a perfect case for watercooling.


----------



## dumbazz

I`m pretty sure the G stands for British


----------



## dumbazz

I`m pretty sure the G stands for British


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bocko57*
> 
> My 1st water cooled machine. I learned a lot from this 1st build. My largest mistake was buying a block that did not fit my GPU. According to the site is should have fit. So the FYI is a Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 does not fit a HeatKiller 79X0 GPU block. Since I could not add the GPU to the mix, it is a fairly simple loop with just the CPU. Here are some pictures.
> 
> I had to do a 2 to 3 Push/Pull RAD because the 1st Push Fan would be sitting right on the CPU plug on the motherboard. And the loop passed the 24 hr loop test too. The longest 24 hrs of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks to all who provide me with tons of technical support to get this up and running.
> Bocko


Glad it is working, and sorry to hear about the HK block, that really stinks :/

Now, for some cable management...


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemanTM*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slightly different attempt


Is anyone else curious where the other GPU is? There's a bridge there, but there's only one GPU.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Is anyone else curious where the other GPU is? There's a bridge there, but there's only one GPU.


Looks like hes just using the bridge to hide tubing.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bocko57*
> 
> My 1st water cooled machine. I learned a lot from this 1st build. My largest mistake was buying a block that did not fit my GPU. According to the site is should have fit. So the FYI is a Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 does not fit a HeatKiller 79X0 GPU block. Since I could not add the GPU to the mix, it is a fairly simple loop with just the CPU. Here are some pictures.
> 
> I had to do a 2 to 3 Push/Pull RAD because the 1st Push Fan would be sitting right on the CPU plug on the motherboard. And the loop passed the 24 hr loop test too. The longest 24 hrs of my life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG
> 
> 
> And thanks to all who provide me with tons of technical support to get this up and running.
> Bocko


Well done bocko57, first time water cooler









And as nleksan posted you can look at some cable management


----------



## turbobnl

what I been working on for the last few days.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what I been working on for the last few days.


Awesome work!


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Awesome work!


Thank you Mike, Your switch 810 build was the reason why I went for the clear BP 250 reservoir and a vertical front radiator mount


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Thank you Mike, Your switch 810 build was the reason why I went for the clear BP 250 reservoir and a vertical front radiator mount


Very cool. You pulled it off nicely. Love the painted rads and the acrylic work. Every time I see a Switch 810 build, I kind of miss mine.....ever so slightly.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> 
> 
> what I been working on for the last few days.


How did you get such a clean cut on the drive bays? Well put together for sure, I like how carefully you put the tubing.


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Very cool. You pulled it off nicely. Love the painted rads and the acrylic work. Every time I see a Switch 810 build, I kind of miss mine.....ever so slightly.


I would trade the switch 810 for a CaseLab any day, nothing like a solid made in USA case and customer support.


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> How did you get such a clean cut on the drive bays? Well put together for sure, I like how carefully you put the tubing.


Thanks, I used a cut off wheel and a table belt sander to make it square and flush.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Thanks, I used a cut off wheel and a table belt sander to make it square and flush.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> I would trade the switch 810 for a CaseLab any day, nothing like a solid made in USA case and customer support.


Switch is a great case too, I've had the gloss black and the newer matte black myself. For the price you really can't beat its water cooling potential. You did a great job with that cut is looks almost like it came that way. Did you paint the edge back to match?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quick question hope someone knows the answer to.
> What is the TPI (thread per inch) count on a standard
> G1/4" fitting. i'm looking to buy a tap but not sure
> what the TPI is of the standard PC G1/4 fitting.
> i believe it is 19 but i just want to make sure.
> have to tap/thread the top of my frozenq
> res.
> hope someone can help .


Yes, G1/4 uses 19 threads per inch.
http://www.hengxing-group.com/faq/products-knowledge/British-standard-pipe-thread.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumbazz*
> 
> I`m pretty sure the G stands for British


"The terminology for the use of G and R originated from Germany (G for Gas, as it was originally designed for use on gas pipes ; R for Rohr (meaning pipe).)"
http://www.hengxing-group.com/faq/products-knowledge/British-standard-pipe-thread.html


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Switch is a great case too, I've had the gloss black and the newer matte black myself. For the price you really can't beat its water cooling potential. You did a great job with that cut is looks almost like it came that way. Did you paint the edge back to match?


I agree, and yes after cut and grinded down straight it was sanded down, prep and repainted.

here's another angle how it looks with the side case on.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quick thing can you run mayhems blue dye in your loop for around 4 years? Hypothetically?


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Thanks, I used a cut off wheel and a table belt sander to make it square and flush.


man what a super clean build. Exactly what i had planned for my phantom 410 just a 120 rad for cpu instead of a 360...(size restrictions) Do you mind if i ask you what total wc'ing setup was worth? i currently only run 1 7970 but am looking at a 2nd (watercooling first)..

Cheers


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Here's my main rig build that I just finished. I haven't actually had the chance to take a full rig picture with the window on and stuff, but here's what I got. Unfortunately I didn't do a build log for it. Purple/Black Color scheme on the X79 platform. Need to work on the purple lighting inside, but this will do for now.


WHERE in the WORLD did you find those purple inserts for the 7970 blocks? I have been trying to find them everywhere.







teeelll meee ._.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quick question hope someone knows the answer to.
> What is the TPI (thread per inch) count on a standard
> G1/4" fitting. i'm looking to buy a tap but not sure
> what the TPI is of the standard PC G1/4 fitting.
> i believe it is 19 but i just want to make sure.
> have to tap/thread the top of my frozenq
> res.
> hope someone can help .
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, G1/4 uses 19 threads per inch.
> http://www.hengxing-group.com/faq/products-knowledge/British-standard-pipe-thread.html
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dumbazz*
> 
> I`m pretty sure the G stands for British
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> "The terminology for the use of G and R originated from Germany (G for Gas, as it was originally designed for use on gas pipes ; R for Rohr (meaning pipe).)"
> http://www.hengxing-group.com/faq/products-knowledge/British-standard-pipe-thread.html
Click to expand...

G is a BSPP thread and R is a BSPT thread.

It does indeed come from the German Gaz and Rohr.

You will need a 11.8mm drill bit and a drill press to tap a g1/4,dont try to drill it freehand.

When tapping delrin or plexi,for every half turn in,do a quarter turn out and use a lube...you can use dishsoap for this if you are stuck.

+rep


----------



## D33G33

Finally got there!

Just about to finish leak testing but here she is
3770k
Asus Z77 Sabertooth
EVGA GTX 670 Superclocked 4gb
2x 8gb Corsair Dominator Platinum
2x 120gb Samsung 840's in RAID 0

Koolance 380
XSPC Raystorm GTX 670 Waterblock
Swiftech 655
FrozenQ Fusion Reservoir
BlackIce GT 240 and XSPC RX240 Radiators
6x 215p Gentle Typhoons.

I haven't built a PC since late '07 and this is my first every watercooled one. I had a blast doing up this one. Cant start to play with is until Wednesday but hopefully can get a decent Overclock out of it









And yes getting that 240 and fan s in the top with a Sabertooth proved VERY interesting indeed...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Feel free to join the LD V8 club.

Here is my old girl...sorry to those that already have seen this.....again.


----------



## bocko57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Glad it is working, and sorry to hear about the HK block, that really stinks :/
> 
> Now, for some cable management...


I took care of most it near the end of the 24 hr loop test (not shown in pics) It is not as good as I liked but good enough. I had a few delays. The PSU for this unit was DOA so I had to wait for the replacement. And I received a DOA MOB for another machine I am working on. So I had a few set backs and some frustrations. At this point, I needed a machine up and running.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Bitspower really needs to start making these dual res adapter blocks for the dual D5 pump tops.
> 
> These suckers are a whole frickin' shedload of work, wayyy more than it appears, but damn they look cool . . . .
> 
> and make another one of a kind mod on my buiild.
> 
> Now I need to order more parts so I can build out the res setups . . . triple loops; red, white & blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an initial test run and a look at how they all plumb up:


you got enough pumps there! that's got to be easily $700+ just in pumps.

Keen to see how it turns out


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> yes they are bitspower crystal links... i love using them man especially when you need to make small connections they come in handy.


Do you ever have any issues with leaks?


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> It's not a colored LED. It's a price of red plexi, and it can't be changed, or you cut your own, which I'm probably going to have to do. But on swiftechs apogee CPU cooler they send a blue and green plexi peice to change the original red. Just wish they did so here :/


Actually it can be changed. Take off the two small screws on the faceplate of the Swiftech block to reveal the red plexi. The plexi DOES come out, its just the thickness of the plexi and depth of the hole make it difficult to get your fingers on. I used the back side of a small cable magangement tie down to stick to the plexi and slide it right out. Its not glued to anything so its easy to get out, the key is to slide it out straight. To replace the red piece, I had to cut my own pieces of purple plexi. While most other colors of plexi can be found in 3/8", i couldn't find purple, so I cut three pieces of 1/8" per block.


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> man what a super clean build. Exactly what i had planned for my phantom 410 just a 120 rad for cpu instead of a 360...(size restrictions) Do you mind if i ask you what total wc'ing setup was worth? i currently only run 1 7970 but am looking at a 2nd (watercooling first)..
> 
> Cheers


Thank you, honestly I didnt keep track and the price may vary depending on the setup. It all depend on which fans, rad, pump, fitting, block, but for me roughly around 1200+


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bocko57*
> 
> I took care of most it near the end of the 24 hr loop test (not shown in pics) It is not as good as I liked but good enough. I had a few delays. The PSU for this unit was DOA so I had to wait for the replacement. And I received a DOA MOB for another machine I am working on. So I had a few set backs and some frustrations. At this point, I needed a machine up and running.


I was just giving you a hard time









Plus, if you ever want any help with say sleeving your cables, I'm only about 30-45min south of you


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Do you ever have any issues with leaks?


no i never had one that leak..they are pretty tight once you get it fitted in..if you thinking to get some, make you get the one with the duel rubber washers as it hold the crystal link tube better than the smaller single washer version it doesn't hold the crystal link tube very well









this is the one you want which is what i'm using
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishmuad1.html

this is the one you don't really want to use..i mean it does the job but is doesn't hole the crystal link tube as firm as the bigger one.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishmuad3.html

i hope this helps


----------



## Dyceskynes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyceskynes*
> 
> Idle: GPU:21C CPU:22C Running Heaven for an hour I was at GPU: 32C and CPU: 39C. XT45 180mm with AP182 push and RX360 with G15 push. I plan to run Prime 95 tonight
> 
> Before I added my cards I was getting up to CPU: 44C on prime 95 with a 360 Push Yates.


Running Valley looped I was getting GPU:38C and CPU: 50C at low fan speeds. Speeds to high dropped the GPU to 36C.


----------



## bocko57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I was just giving you a hard time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus, if you ever want any help with say sleeving your cables, I'm only about 30-45min south of you


Thanks nleksan. What I might need help on is the selling of the HeatKiller GPU block and looking for a GPU block what will work with my GPU. Also, I was thinking about some quick disconnects and trying to figure out if they are that beneficial in my setup. I just got this setup and already looking to modify it. Someone told me this can become an addiction. I am beginning to see it. I need more!!

But some nice sleeving would do me some good too.

Thanks
Bocko


----------



## _REAPER_

KARLITOS what are you temps on your GPUs and CPU with all of your rad space?


----------



## svtfmook

here's mine, not a full custom loop, but oh well


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfmook*
> 
> here's mine, not a full custom loop, but oh well


Sleek and tidy!
love it! well done


----------



## pc-illiterate

i have 3 somewhat stupid questions i probably can already answer.
1. has ek fixed the nickel fiasco? only ek makes a block for the asus dc2 670/680.
2. is it pretty much any 680 block fits the gigabyte wf3 670? it appears that both heatkiller and ek say their 680 blocks fit. sidewinder says heatkiller will definitely and ek says visually.
3.(this is the really stupid question) there shouldnt be a problem using links(crystal or block) connecting the 2 different blocks right? im assuming both will have the inlet and outlets in the same places to avoid this.


----------



## MillerModPCs

My latest client build. Cosmos 2 with 3570k and two gtx 670s sli. Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry coolant
Full video log is here. More parts to come!!
http://m.youtube.com/user/Famoussasdrummer182


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> WHERE in the WORLD did you find those purple inserts for the 7970 blocks? I have been trying to find them everywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> teeelll meee ._.


Rgb led mod perhaps?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> You sir... You owe me a new set of pants
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that card is.. beautiful..










lol Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Awesome..just awesome...30 Helens agree...Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the mod.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


lol 30 Helens? thats great and thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> as similarly stated before, you owe me a new monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (soft drinks are no good for monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> checked your log and really loved your solution for a 90 degree turn. as for lights, i think it should either be the color of your main scheme or the second color of your scheme (e.g. one main color and second for contrast or two color theme) or just go on white which almost always works no matter what.


lol, I don't think its my "fault" for the monitor







Thanks







. I think I'm going to sand down the 90 degree block to be almost flush with the window top the more I think about it. I spent another hour making an acrylic beauty cover to go over the GPU block bracket only to find that I didn't really like it lol. I'm pretty sure I will only be using white inside the cards more than likely... maybe a UV LED in the 90 degree block but nothing ridiculous like the pictures illustrate lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Starting to look very awesome!


Thanks Mike! Especially coming form someone that builds masterpieces







Did you get my PM regarding the screen by chance or is it hush hush








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> coolest mod on gpu ever..... ..


I don't know about that but thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Feel free to join the LD V8 club.
> 
> Here is my old girl...sorry to those that already have seen this.....again.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


B-Neg you should know people would never get tired of seeing that beasty "old girl" of yours


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> KARLITOS what are you temps on your GPUs and CPU with all of your rad space?


*Hi Reaper.*

Temps will rise up to 40'C 55'C when OCed during game play. Depends on which game.

Ambient 26'C
Water Temps 32'C - 34'C
Delta: 6'C - 8'C

All Radiators have push/pull fans set at 75% speed (always) and the pumps are set at 4 on 5 (always)

*But my room is a small room, so if the Computer gets stressed under game, the Ambient will rise. This rig is a heater.*



*My water Loop is not overkill anymore since I added Quad 7970s*. (I had TriFire 6970s before) No more space for more Rads. Waiting for the 900D to overkill it,








Temps are still pretty good.

Reservoir

EK D5 Dual Serial Top (Dual Pumps)

Feser X-Changer 240mm Radiator

4 x EK FC-7970 Blocks (with EK Quad Parallel Bridge)

Feser X-Changer 480mm Radiator

Bitspower Temperature Sensor

Feser X-Changer 360mm Radiator

MOSFET Block (Koolance)

CPU Block (EK HF Supreme)

PCH Block (Koolance)

BACK to Reservoir


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Thanks Mike! Especially coming form someone that builds masterpieces
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you get my PM regarding the screen by chance or is it hush hush


Oooh I've seen much better around, but thank you.








Also I don't recall ever getting any PMs from ya, resend it ya want.


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> finally, my finished rig


Wow, that is a fantastic rig. Rep+


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> finally, my finished rig
> Extremmmme Red Demon Build Log


Hey snef, great rig.......any chance i can pinch that last picture and stick it on our XSPC Facebook page


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Rgb led mod perhaps?


Actually already got answered







Purple Plexi inserts


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfmook*
> 
> here's mine, not a full custom loop, but oh well
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












but really love the side window. (which IMO that is how the 500R should have been released)


----------



## Fieel

GTX Titan on warranty, will come, will be mounted and everything will be finished finally.


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> GTXranty, will come, will be mounted and everything will be finished finally.


very clean and simple setup, like it a lot


----------



## KaRLiToS

*So many nice rigs, I cannot quote them all.*



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Feel free to join the LD V8 club.
> Here is my old girl...sorry to those that already have seen this.....again.


How can we get tired of seing that masterpiece


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GTX Titan on warranty, will come, will be mounted and everything will be finished finally.


This build should have been called Eridium Blight!!! Nice work!

The TTL10GT is a hard case to light up


----------



## minicooper1

my little devil black&white


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullix*
> 
> Please stop saying "trifire". Theres no such things. Its SLI, and Cross Fire, no matter how many cards you have. 4 way crossfire, not "quadfire".


I have quad sli.....wait....its 4-way....wait its sli x2....wait.....its 680x4.....wait....i'm confused now


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> my little devil black&white
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great! Can you upload some higher res shots with close ups of your fittings sections etc... ?


----------



## Dhalgren65




----------



## wermad

^^^Sweet!


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Looks great! Can you upload some higher res shots with close ups of your fittings sections etc... ?


going well?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> going well?



need a log


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> going well?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> need a log
Click to expand...









 don't like?

Inviato dal mio GT-I9100 con Tapatalk 2


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> going well?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/q


Again, looks great! For the custom length acrylic tubing what was your your process for cutting and fitting the tube? I'm assuming you used 12MM OD 10MM ID Acrylic tube so it fits the bitspower C47/C48 links properly (?)


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> going well?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I am liking the LD PC-V8 case more and more every time I see it, in fact I think it is everything the Corsair 800D wanted to be but never could, and then multiply by the awesomeness factor 10 (logarithmic), add a double heaping of awesomesauce with three servings of Creativity Juice, and you get a Little Devil Build like yours (and of course, the infamous almighty SR-2-based inferno-looking monster that pops up from time to time







).

I have had my heart set on a CL TH10 with the biggest available extended top, XXL Clear window on MB Side and PSU Side, XL Pedestal, 4-6x/ea Vertical/Horizontal XL HD Accessory Bars, 20-40 various Plates (some Fan Plates, some offset Fan plates, some blanks, some tube pass-thru, and so forth), fan mounts for the entire front with ~5-6x 5.25" Bays, 12-16x 3.5" bays, 4-8x 2.5" bays (throw one of my single 5.25 to 4x 2.5 hotswap cages with individual locking doors and dual-function backplane that will take either a single SAS or four individual SATA data plugs, up front for quick swaps of SSD's)....

AND IT MUST BE WHITE! I started saving pocket lint change about 18mo ago, and while I could get the case right now, I am waiting until I can afford all the H2O stuff that such a beauty deserves! 4x Monsta 560's + 1x 420 + 360 perhaps, all push-pull with shrouds? I think perhaps... Plus, at that point gotta go all out and get the matching white RAM blocks (gotta go 2x 4DIMM blocks, with the RIVE), grab two 400mL BP reservoirs with crystal end caps plumbed in semi-serial/semi-parallel, get a third MCP35X and run all 3 in the loop just because, make a custom mount from some of the accessory plate blanks, gotta add a motherboard block yet I've been trying for 6 months to get a MIPS R4E Ni/Blk Motherboard Block Kit (or preferably the MIPS Copper/Acetal kit but that's so rare I don't know if it truly exists!) with zero luck and the others just don't appeal to me in the same way...
Oh then there's all the sleeving, the extra GPU's and blocks, and the super-OCD-level attention to detail and immense patience, skill, talent... of which I possess very little, at least compared to the builds I see on here...

My point, besides rambling on and on, is that I recognize how much dedication, work, and blood/sweat/tears/whiskey it takes to get a build like this done, and I have an immense amount of respect for your talent, your dedication, and I am also VERY JEALOUS!!!!!!!


----------



## ledzepp3

So many of you guys that also posted pics of your setups owe me new pants


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> So many of you guys that also posted pics of your setups owe me new pants


Works better if you just stop wearing them...


----------



## ginger_nuts

In my long term build, which will hopefully be going in a scratched built full aluminium case, similar styling to a Mountain Mods or Case Labs case. Which I plan on keeping for a very very very long time.

Should I go dual 480mm rad or dual 420mm rad or extreme OVERKILL dual 560mm? Quite frankly I would never need more then dual 240mm rads but what the hell hay!!!!


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> In my long term build, which will hopefully be going in a scratched built full aluminium case, similar styling to a Mountain Mods or Case Labs case. Which I plan on keeping for a very very very long time.
> 
> Should I go dual 480mm rad or dual 420mm rad or extreme OVERKILL dual 560mm? Quite frankly I would never need more then dual 240mm rads but what the hell hay!!!!


I vote the OVERKILL way. Always love seeing how people go way over and how they hold it all together in one place.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> In my long term build, which will hopefully be going in a scratched built full aluminium case, similar styling to a Mountain Mods or Case Labs case. Which I plan on keeping for a very very very long time.
> 
> Should I go dual 480mm rad or dual 420mm rad or extreme OVERKILL dual 560mm? Quite frankly I would never need more then dual 240mm rads but what the hell hay!!!!


Order of preference?
1. EXTREME Overkill - Twin 560 Rads
2. Stealthy Overkill - Twin 420 Rads
3. Traditional Overkill - Twin 480 Rads

However, you could best all of the above by going with something like the new Phobya 1080 G-Changer, a MO-RA 3 Pro, or a 1260 radiator and design your case so that it has a "separate chamber", preventing radiator airflow from mixing with general system airflow, mounting the rad(s) either on the side(s) or top/bottom. Of course, you could simply build a matching rad box that could be "modular", looking almost identical to the case and even having a means of attaching directly to it, while at the same time being able to stand completely on it's own while providing a fully-enclosed large radiator (1260+) or set of radiators (3x 420's, 480's, 560's), and having multiple pump mounts, reservoir mounts, etc.


----------



## mr one

|How good are theese fittings?
*LINK*


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> |How good are theese fittings?
> *LINK*


I here good things about monsoons. I would use them.


----------



## OverSightX

Anyone think I would benefit from a second pump when I upgrade to 2x 480s and perhaps a 360, with 2 gpu blocks, and a CPU block? I currently have a VPP665 pushing thorugh a 360, a 120, 2GPU, and 1 CPU.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I here good things about monsoons. I would use them.


Good then, because im thinking about betting 6 pack but they has a kinda high price


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Good then, because im thinking about betting 6 pack but they has a kinda high price


the monsoon 6 pack is a good value, I got mine at frozencpu for 38.99, that's 6.50 a piece, which is a good price and it comes with tools and extra o-ring in very nice packaging box.

Here's my setup bitspower angle 90 and 45 + monsoon matt black. They're easy to use, I didn't have any problem with it.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> the monsoon 6 pack is a good value, I got mine at frozencpu for 38.99, that's 6.50 a piece, which is a good price and it comes with tools and extra o-ring in very nice packaging box.
> 
> Here's my setup bitspower angle 90 and 45 + monsoon matt black. They're easy to use, I didn't have any problem with it.


And how feels that matt black finish? because im thinking to get theese also. By the way thanks a lot


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> And how feels that matt black finish? because im thinking to get theese also. By the way thanks a lot


it looks really good, it matches the bitpower matt black very well. I would recommend it to anyone, I'm using 1/2 x 3/4 fitting and primochill advanced LRT tubing with no problem. I also recommend this tool for a clean straight cut over a knife and scissor. Can get it at any hardware store in the plumbing section.


----------



## turbobnl

that tool also makes it easier too, I just measure and cut on the spot vs pulling the tube out and cutting it.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> it looks really good, it matches the bitpower matt black very well. I would recommend it to anyone, I'm using 1/2 x 3/4 fitting and primochill advanced LRT tubing with no problem. I also recommend this tool for a clean straight cut over a knife and scissor. Can get it at any hardware store in the plumbing section.


I brought this tool even before my water cooling parts arrived


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> I brought this tool even before my water cooling parts arrived


its pretty useful, great for cutting cigar too


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> its pretty useful, great for cutting cigar too


Didnt tried that


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> |How good are theese fittings?
> *LINK*


I Absolutely LOVE monsoons fittings







never had a problem and the finishes are really tough. I keep scratching mine (gold and black) and never see anything other than the original finish


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Don't ruin a good thread by bringing up old arguments, it's not needed and messes up the thread. Cleaned.


----------



## Canis-X

Thanks


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> the monsoon 6 pack is a good value, I got mine at frozencpu for 38.99, that's 6.50 a piece, which is a good price and it comes with tools and extra o-ring in very nice packaging box.
> 
> Here's my setup bitspower angle 90 and 45 + monsoon matt black. They're easy to use, I didn't have any problem with it.


Turbobnl,
I'd like to get the three hole bitspower top like that. I see that tapered dip tube on there site and it seems to have a few threads but the top doesn't appear to have all that many threads in it, so how do you mount that elbow and dip tube in the same hole like that?
Thanks.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Turbobnl,
> I'd like to get the three hole bitspower top like that. I see that tapered dip tube on there site and it seems to have a few threads but the top doesn't appear to have all that many threads in it, so how do you mount that elbow and dip tube in the same hole like that?
> Thanks.


It threads from both sides, the top is actually pretty thick.


----------



## Mandrake7062

Sorry, very nice build turbo


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Turbobnl,
> I'd like to get the three hole bitspower top like that. I see that tapered dip tube on there site and it seems to have a few threads but the top doesn't appear to have all that many threads in it, so how do you mount that elbow and dip tube in the same hole like that?
> Thanks.


The drain tube is actually straight, the tapered look of the return tube is from the acrylic tube being round giving it a tapered look. the cap is roughly 1.5 cm thick and the threads on the fittings and tube is about .4 cm thick, so there's plenty of threads for both tube and fitting.


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> It threads from both sides, the top is actually pretty thick.


Thanks a bunch there Scorpion!!


----------



## Mandrake7062

Thanks again guys, those fitting are hard to figure out on there site/


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Thanks again guys, those fitting are hard to figure out on there site/


post your questions I'm sure we could figure out what you need for your loop


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Thanks a bunch there Scorpion!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> The drain tube is actually straight, the tapered look of the return tube is from the acrylic tube being round giving it a tapered look. the cap is roughly 1.5 cm thick and the threads on the fittings and tube is about .4 cm thick, so there's plenty of threads for both tube and fitting.


Yep, this is spot on. Here are some closer pics of mine just so you can easily get a good idea. I took them for my build log. I did have a problem with the finish flaking on the tube though.


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yep, this is spot on. Here are some closer pics of mine just so you can easily get a good idea. I took them for my build log. I did have a problem with the finish flaking on the tube though.


very nice, do u have a build thread?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> very nice, do u have a build thread?


I do, here: Build Log


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yep, this is spot on. Here are some closer pics of mine just so you can easily get a good idea. I took them for my build log. I did have a problem with the finish flaking on the tube though.


And what liquid are you using for that build?

EDIT: never mind, seems like I've already subscribed to your log and seems like you are using mayhem








Love your build btw, I love how beastly the cpu block looks with that green coolant
one of the best build around IMHO


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> And what liquid are you using for that build?
> 
> EDIT: never mind, seems like I've already subscribed to your log and seems like you are using mayhem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love your build btw, I love how beastly the cpu block looks with that green coolant
> one of the best build around IMHO


Thanks! I had fun building it, now I'm having fun playing with it. I do plan to update the log again with performance and overclocking figures I just haven't had very much free time lately.

It is indeed mayhems pastel+dye with distilled water. I flushed the radiators with vinegar+warm water before running pure distilled for a few hours and then draining again to ensure everything was kosher. My EK blocks have shown no signs of corrosion at all, and the BP tube didn't corrode, it just... flaked off. I got super scared when I saw the flakes though, I thought the EK blocks were already giving up on me.


----------



## pc-illiterate

nvm


----------



## KurruptAus

Fresh coolant and new tubing <3


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Thanks! I had fun building it, now I'm having fun playing with it. I do plan to update the log again with performance and overclocking figures I just haven't had very much free time lately.
> 
> It is indeed mayhems pastel+dye with distilled water. I flushed the radiators with vinegar+warm water before running pure distilled for a few hours and then draining again to ensure everything was kosher. My EK blocks have shown no signs of corrosion at all, and the BP tube didn't corrode, it just... flaked off. I got super scared when I saw the flakes though, I thought the EK blocks were already giving up on me.


I do have the same problem with EK fittings, if you see HERE
only a couple of fittings though and am using EK premix coolant

a bit disappointed, I hope monsoon will not give me the same problem

I have the same res as your but not using the tube since its only for display, have another bay res running in the same loop


----------



## briddell

I have been wondering if anyone has used glass for their tubing, before? In my upcoming loop, I want clean, solid, rigid lines, not curves. I have considered using metal tubing, but I want transparency, to match the EK blocks I will be getting. I have heard people mention using a glass tube inside before, but I don't have a clue, really. Also, I don't want to use an SLI/Crossfire Bridge, I want to run a piece of tubing/pipe between the two cards. However, that would add at least 4 extra 90 degree fittings; with a dual pump setup, such as the Swiftech MCP35X2, would there be enough flow for the loop not be damaged in thermal performance?

I want to do a system similar to this:


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> I have been wondering if anyone has used glass for their tubing, before? In my upcoming loop, I want clean, solid, rigid lines, not curves. I have considered using metal tubing, but I want transparency, to match the EK blocks I will be getting. I have heard people mention using a glass tube inside before, but I don't have a clue, really. Also, I don't want to use an SLI/Crossfire Bridge, I want to run a piece of tubing/pipe between the two cards. However, that would add at least 4 extra 90 degree fittings; with a dual pump setup, such as the Swiftech MCP35X2, would there be enough flow for the loop not be damaged in thermal performance?
> 
> I want to do a system similar to this:


Pretty sure what you meant is acrylic tube
HERE

you need a heat gun to bend it, its not that complicated


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Well bought my GPU block today for my soon to be Titan.
decided to go with Koolance.


going to airbrush(carefully) the black to a pearl blue to match the rest of my build.



and I have the rest of these painted white with blue mesh but just have to top coat them.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> I have been wondering if anyone has used glass for their tubing, before? In my upcoming loop, I want clean, solid, rigid lines, not curves. I have considered using metal tubing, but I want transparency, to match the EK blocks I will be getting. I have heard people mention using a glass tube inside before, but I don't have a clue, really. Also, I don't want to use an SLI/Crossfire Bridge, I want to run a piece of tubing/pipe between the two cards. *However, that would add at least 4 extra 90 degree fittings; with a dual pump setup, such as the Swiftech MCP35X2, would there be enough flow for the loop not be damaged in thermal performance?*


Here's a good article on the subject. It explains the impact of various fittings on flow rate and temperature. Hope that helps.









http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/

"Sure some extra fittings will add restriction, but it's very minor. As the chart shows, it would take almost 30 each 90 degree elbows to add up to 1 degree in CPU temp rise. Half a dozen to get to aesthetic perfection is perfectly fine from an art priority perspective."


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Well bought my GPU block today for my soon to be Titan.
> decided to go with Koolance.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> going to airbrush(carefully) the black to a pearl blue to match the rest of my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I have the rest of these painted white with blue mesh but just have to top coat them.


A bit disappointed with Koolance and their take on the Titan block. Late and it looks half baked imho. Well, here's hoping it keeps it cool









Love your Genesis!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That pearl blue is so......beautiful!!!! Would love to get a Genesis since you can easily do the inverted mb tray (and it looks Tron-tastic!).


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> the monsoon 6 pack is a good value, I got mine at frozencpu for 38.99, that's 6.50 a piece, which is a good price and it comes with tools and extra o-ring in very nice packaging box.
> 
> Here's my setup bitspower angle 90 and 45 + monsoon matt black. They're easy to use, I didn't have any problem with it.


Looking sweet, I have one minor concern though. Do you have any issues with noise/vibration emitting from the D5 since it is not decoupled?


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Looking sweet, I have one minor concern though. Do you have any issues with noise/vibration emitting from the D5 since it is not decoupled?


Thank you, what do yo mean by decoupled? The computer case does vibrate from the pump. And does make a hum noise.


----------



## turbobnl

Ahh, I just search on decoupling pump. The pump is a bit annoying and is the loudest thing in the pc, and now it makes since why I was having that problem. Thank you very much for bringing that up. +rep

I'm thinking unbolting the pump and use the foam that comes with the bitspower res to separate the pump from the case. Any ideas? Thank you for spotting my problem from a picture lol.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Ahh, I just search on decoupling pump. The pump is a bit annoying and is the loudest thing in the pc, and now it makes since why I was having that problem. Thank you very much for bringing that up. +rep
> 
> I'm thinking unbolting the pump and use the foam that comes with the bitspower res to separate the pump from the case. Any ideas? Thank you for spotting my problem from a picture lol.


I am using this ones on my DDC 1T+ (MCP35x). It's an Alphacool decouplings set.



Further I reduced the pump speed down to 50% as it was too powerful anyway and now you can hear the pump only by pressing an ear against my switch 810








The rubber part is about 1cm (3/8") long. There are also these sponge like decouplers but they do really look ugly.



For aesthetics I chose the Alphacool set.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> There are also these sponge like decouplers but they do really look ugly.


Shoggy sandwich.









They work *very* well, but do look a little unsightly. I had one on my pump when I had my loop, but the pump was hidden behind the radiator in the bottom of a TJ07 so it didn't matter.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Shoggy sandwich.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They work *very* well, but do look a little unsightly. I had one on my pump when I had my loop, but the pump was hidden behind the radiator in the bottom of a TJ07 so it didn't matter.


Yes they do look very functional, if I had my pump hidden in anyway I would have definitely chosen the shoggy sandwich or the.... ...forgotten the name, the same thing but from Phobya









But a visible pump doesn't like sanwiches









Edit:

A question: Does anybody have experience with *Primoflex Advanced* clear tubing? I'm thinking about to throw out my Masterkleer tubes as they already start to cloud after 6 weeks in use. I read about clouding issues on Tygon aswell, that's why I was thinking about trying out the "new" tubing from Primochill.


----------



## SeekerZA

I'n interested in finding out about the CLEAR tubing of primoflex advance. I've got the bloodshed red 1/2 x 3/4 and the only problem i came across aswell as a few others i've read up somewhere is that the tubing is sometimes too thick regardless of it being exactly the same as the compression fitting size.

I used Monsoon fittings and had problems getting tubing tight against barb and screwed secure. The screwing part on the tubing is A PAIN. Please let us know what the outcome is with the clear tubing. I am considering pastel


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> I am using this ones on my DDC 1T+ (MCP35x). It's an Alphacool decouplings set.
> 
> 
> 
> Further I reduced the pump speed down to 50% as it was too powerful anyway and now you can hear the pump only by pressing an ear against my switch 810
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rubber part is about 1cm (3/8") long. There are also these sponge like decouplers but they do really look ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> For aesthetics I chose the Alphacool set.


Thank you very much +rep, I just made my own using mouse pad and the foam that came with the bitspowers reservoir. So far so good. I was getting so annoyed, and thought to myself this is quiet? lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Shoggy sandwich.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They work *very* well, but do look a little unsightly. I had one on my pump when I had my loop, but the pump was hidden behind the radiator in the bottom of a TJ07 so it didn't matter.


yea they look pretty ugly, that would diff throw the looks of my build off. but if it works it work.

thanks guys for the help


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> I'n interested in finding out about the CLEAR tubing of primoflex advance. I've got the bloodshed red 1/2 x 3/4 and the only problem i came across aswell as a few others i've read up somewhere is that the tubing is sometimes too thick regardless of it being exactly the same as the compression fitting size.
> 
> I used Monsoon fittings and had problems getting tubing tight against barb and screwed secure. The screwing part on the tubing is A PAIN. Please let us know what the outcome is with the clear tubing. I am considering pastel


Not sure about other tubes or color, but I'm using primochill advance LRT 1/2 x 3/4 tubing with monsoon fitting with no problem. I was able to hand tighten all of the compression ring without any issues. Are you reusing the tube by any chance? (went from barb fitting to monsoon fitting) I was using all fresh cut tubing so the od of the tube didn't change.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> my little devil black&white
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's nice!


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> I'n interested in finding out about the CLEAR tubing of primoflex advance. I've got the bloodshed red 1/2 x 3/4 and the only problem i came across aswell as a few others i've read up somewhere is that the tubing is sometimes too thick regardless of it being exactly the same as the compression fitting size.
> 
> I used Monsoon fittings and had problems getting tubing tight against barb and screwed secure. The screwing part on the tubing is A PAIN. Please let us know what the outcome is with the clear tubing. I am considering pastel


I've used monsoon fittings twice. The first with Primochill LRT was a disaster. Tubing has more variance in production than the fittings do, and my batch was apparently slightly too fat and I ruined all of my fittings. This time around I used duralene from sidewinders and it was super easy to put together. I believe the rolled lip on the monsoon fittings locking ring makes it more susceptible to variances in tubing size than straight cut compressions, as I've seen several people have the same issues with them not being able to screw on over the tubing (usually with fatter 1/2x3/4 stuff).


----------



## SeekerZA

Wow Come on people. I guess my batch was slightly too fat as well because it was a hard to fully screw the cap on. Regardless though i still put in a order for More of same piping because i'll be using fresh pipes when doing the few fitting changes. What are the best looking black compression fittings in both straight and lets say 45degrees bends? Well only to use on the ek bridge which is black.


----------



## hammerforged

Good idea by EK. I would like to see Koolance and others follow suit with something similar.
Quote:


> EK-Supremacy PreciseMount Add-on Naked Ivy
> 
> 
> 
> Link


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> post your questions I'm sure we could figure out what you need for your loop


Thanks a bunch guys, the anxiety of dealing with the water is bad enough, but then throwing tons of extra cash just to pin down what fittings you need is bad.

My next fitting to figure out is the fill tube fitting for the top of my HAF932, I need to measure the hole first and it looks like it needs the fitting and the plug as separate pieces.
So far I've only seen them in the barb hose clamp type, and that's if I'm actually looking at the right fitting. lol








I'm at work so I can't get specific at the moment.

As long as were talking hardware, do you guys have a site in the US that you like for metric bolts, M3 and M4's for rads and fans.
I've seen some nice sites with SS bolts, like below, but I haven't seen anything in black yet.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_machine_screws_Phillips_pan_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_3mm_x_0.5mm.aspx


----------



## Mandrake7062

Another thing I thought was interesting was on one of Singularity's videos it looked like he was using some kind of sleeving for the fan bolts, so when the bolt passed between the holes on the fan it also passed between a sleeve. i don't think the could have been shoulder bolts.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Thanks a bunch guys, the anxiety of dealing with the water is bad enough, but then throwing tons of extra cash just to pin down what fittings you need is bad.
> 
> My next fitting to figure out is the fill tube fitting for the top of my HAF932, I need to measure the hole first and it looks like it needs the fitting and the plug as separate pieces.
> So far I've only seen them in the barb hose clamp type, and that's if I'm actually looking at the right fitting. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at work so I can't get specific at the moment.
> 
> As long as were talking hardware, do you guys have a site in the US that you like for metric bolts, M3 and M4's for rads and fans.
> I've seen some nice sites with SS bolts, like below, but I haven't seen anything in black yet.
> 
> http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_machine_screws_Phillips_pan_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_3mm_x_0.5mm.aspx


check McMaster-Carr. They have a massive screw and other hardware selection. It what I use whenever I need something


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Thanks a bunch guys, the anxiety of dealing with the water is bad enough, but then throwing tons of extra cash just to pin down what fittings you need is bad.
> 
> My next fitting to figure out is the fill tube fitting for the top of my HAF932, I need to measure the hole first and it looks like it needs the fitting and the plug as separate pieces.
> So far I've only seen them in the barb hose clamp type, and that's if I'm actually looking at the right fitting. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at work so I can't get specific at the moment.
> 
> As long as were talking hardware, do you guys have a site in the US that you like for metric bolts, M3 and M4's for rads and fans.
> I've seen some nice sites with SS bolts, like below, but I haven't seen anything in black yet.
> 
> http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_machine_screws_Phillips_pan_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_3mm_x_0.5mm.aspx


I would use this as a fill port
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html?tl=g30c101s460

Depending on the reservoir you go with, but for the bitspower cylinder res, there's 3 port on top one for the return loop, one for fill, and one extra port. U would need the fill port fitting w/ plug, 2 compression or barb fitting and maybe some angle fittings depends on where u mount the fill port.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Shoggy sandwich.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They work *very* well, but do look a little unsightly. I had one on my pump when I had my loop, but the pump was hidden behind the radiator in the bottom of a TJ07 so it didn't matter.


Spray paint it if the orange colour is obtrusive-i did when i had my Aquastream XT ULTRA-it worked fine,

Only thing is that it takes a few coats because the sponge absorbs the paint.


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> check McMaster-Carr. They have a massive screw and other hardware selection. It what I use whenever I need something


Nice site morencyam! I've heard of them. And the Black-Oxide is dipped in acid real quick to harden and turn it black?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Nice site morencyam! I've heard of them. And the Black-Oxide is dipped in acid real quick to harden and turn it black?


Yes, I believe that's how black oxide works. I think it's the same process as gun bluing


----------



## Mandrake7062

Just looked that up and the acid dip to turn it black has nothing to do with being heat treated to harden but just turns it black. I guess SS is pretty soft though..


----------



## Thrasher1016

I don't know WHO it was, but the person who linked McMaster-Carr is going to get a bill from me.









...

Not just for PC building either... man...

Thanks - T


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I don't know WHO it was, but the person who linked McMaster-Carr is going to get a bill from me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Not just for PC building either... man...
> 
> Thanks - T










don't know who that could have been









I love that website. My work orders all our hardware from there. I've used it for a few personal projects too. It's really nice since they are in the same state as me so I get all my orders next day


----------



## Plutonium10

Sort of a stupid question here, but I was just wondering. If I need to leave a liquid cooled computer in storage for 3 or 4 months (as I will this summer), is it fine to just drain the whole loop and leave it assembled?


----------



## ClaggyPants

I'd say drain it. Left my fist ever water cooled rig at my parents house for a couple of weeks whilst on honeymoon. When I returned I had to strip it down and clean the blocks and renew the hose. It was a total mess although I dont know what caused it. Distilled water with a UV blue dye. Can only put it down to the dye. One of the reasons I dont use anything in my water now other than a silver coil.


----------



## natsu2014

Finally finished my build


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Finally finished my build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Finally finished my build


It's all cooled with this 360mm rad ?


----------



## natsu2014

For now it is. As for the temps. 1h of Crysis 3 with Vsync On, No OC on GPU's and CPU up to 4.6. Not so bad for just one 360 rad


----------



## Pawelr98

Nice temps. With these temps you don't even need to add more rads







. But personally I would add 120mm rad with 1000rpm fan to get even lower temps (when using some higher gpu stressing software).


----------



## natsu2014

I will add 120mm rad (coolgate of course







) when I need more juice from my cards. I'll have to change the position of res 'cause FT02 is not the best chasis for LC (stil love it). For now my 1st LC build is done


----------



## MCCSolutions

My "Scorch" Build Completed.....


----------



## PCModderMike

Holy picture dump.

Nice rig.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Finally finished my build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've seen some creative cylinder res mounts in a RV02/FT02, and I can say that ^^ is a first for me. Nice job.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> My "Scorch" Build Completed.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


pics.....

haha, looks good though. A spoiler would have been nice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> My "Scorch" Build Completed.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome rig! Tons of pic to show it off, nice!


----------



## fakeblood

new GPU block arrived today








Just waiting on my coldzero and PPCs orders to arrive so I can start building


----------



## lowfat

That is one fine looking block.









EDIT: I can't tell from your shot but is the steel cover flush w/ the acetal on the other half of the block?


----------



## fakeblood

its not entirely flush all the way across, the steel cover pokes up maybe 1/4 - 1/2 a mm nothing to complain about


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*


Im from Myrtle beach, SC lol. Stationed Over seas now though







. I see your from Canada you must have went on vacation there im guessing.......


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Holy picture dump.
> Nice rig.


Sorry and thanks!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I've seen some creative cylinder res mounts in a RV02/FT02, and I can say that ^^ is a first for me. Nice job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pics.....
> haha, looks good though. A spoiler would have been nice.


Sorry, and Thanks!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome rig! Tons of pic to show it off, nice!


Thanks


----------



## Chomuco

Finally finished my ! go


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I've seen some creative cylinder res mounts in a RV02/FT02, and I can say that ^^ is a first for me. Nice job.


Thanks mate







It's a pain to put tube res in FT02 (and that "huge" pump) but I couldn't resist







Did not expect such positive feedback since it's my first real LC build


----------



## Void-Ray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> Finally finished my ! go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


im curious what is that blue thing on the top of your gpu sir?


----------



## Kimir

GPU reactor, one of the features of MSI 680/7970 Lightning.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Void-Ray*
> 
> im curious what is that blue thing on the top of your gpu sir?


its the reactor from tony starks chest....what you havent heard of this...


----------



## snowfree52

guys, any idea how I could improve my loop ?


----------



## natsu2014

This is a true monster. Haven't seen it till now and have to say it's a beast


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snowfree52*
> 
> guys, any idea how I could improve my loop ?


What the hell of a cooling system for a single CPU







But serious, what do you want to improve? You could easily also cool your GPU and two more with that rads and still would have enough headroom for overclocking








I would start with getting the GPU into the loop and I would have taken thicker tubes (16/10mm ; 5/8"/3/8"). Then for aesthetics I would hide and/or sleeve the cables or use sleeved extensions and I would use some dye in the coolant.


----------



## snowfree52

I meant aestetically, with the order or the loop or the way the tubes go throught the case,

















Do you guys like how it is now ?

I'm gonna watercool the GPU but not yet because I'm changing the graphic card soon.
And the sleeving is scheduled in a couple of months


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snowfree52*
> 
> I meant aestetically, with the order or the loop or the way the tubes go throught the case,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys like how it is now ?
> 
> I'm gonna watercool the GPU but not yet because I'm changing the graphic card soon.
> And the sleeving is scheduled in a couple of months


You could hide the tube which connects the rads and get the other tubes as short as possible. Routing is pretty good though








What tube size are you using? Everything just looks so tiny in that case


----------



## snowfree52

size is 10/13 mm









the tube going from the 480 to the 360 is actually the one I fing ugly, not sure how I can hide it but will try.


----------



## Tonky

Another thing you could try is building case around your PSU and your pump.
This is how I did it in my rig:


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snowfree52*
> 
> guys, any idea how I could improve my loop ?


Larger tubing maybe, not sure if you like colored tubing or coolant but its an option as well


----------



## PedroC1999

I cant seem to upload on this thread, the picture of the H100i is my sig rig pic.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> I cant seem to upload on this thread, the picture of the H100i is my sig rig pic.


You could upload to a image host then just paste the html provided from that


----------



## PedroC1999

Im on my phone right now - Havnt got the picture to access it.


----------



## sate200




----------



## driftingforlife

Just did 2 orders, just waiting on my 2nd Lightning to arrive


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*











You have a huge rad







. What pump do you use ?
And also post the temps.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have a huge rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What pump do you use ?
> And also post the temps.


Attached to the side of that rad stand, is what looks like a D5 with a top and the res mounted on top of that.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa! That's a sick build. How are your temps?


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Whoa! That's a sick build. How are your temps?


My temps in IDLE, CPU - 31 º,
VGA - 32º

temps CPU in test 3DMARK vantage - 4,9ghz 46 ºC
temps VGA in test 3DMARK vantage - 1375/1650mhz - 43 ºC

the radbox has a good performance in the loop of the VGA'S, have 2 separate loops, the loop CPU + mobo - 1 pump 1200lp / h + 2 radiators (Black ICE + XSPC RX240). In the loop VGA'S - 2 'pumps 1200lp / h 3 + radiators in series in radbox!!


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> My temps in IDLE, CPU - 31 º,
> VGA - 32º
> 
> temps CPU in test 3DMARK vantage - 4,9ghz 46 ºC
> temps VGA in test 3DMARK vantage - 1375/1650mhz - 43 ºC
> 
> the radbox has a good performance in the loop of the VGA'S, have 2 separate loops, the loop CPU + mobo - 1 pump 1200lp / h + 2 radiators (Black ICE + XSPC RX240). In the loop VGA'S - 2 'pumps 1200lp / h 3 + radiators in series in radbox!!


His pump being delivered, true story


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Ahh, I just search on decoupling pump. The pump is a bit annoying and is the loudest thing in the pc, and now it makes since why I was having that problem. Thank you very much for bringing that up. +rep
> 
> I'm thinking unbolting the pump and use the foam that comes with the bitspower res to separate the pump from the case. Any ideas? Thank you for spotting my problem from a picture lol.










glad that I was able to help, Yep decoupling can make all the difference, Martin says it all at pump noise testing article.

Indeed foam should do the trick:



I am opting for these, but i am not sure if the end result is going to be similar to the foam:


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glad that I was able to help, Yep decoupling can make all the difference, Martin says it all at pump noise testing article.
> 
> Indeed foam should do the trick:
> 
> 
> 
> I am opting for these, but i am not sure if the end result is going to be similar to the foam:


Thanks for spotting out the problem, at first I thought this was normal but a bit annoying like a loud fish tank pump. Now it sound pretty silent with a sandwich I made out of mouse pad and foam that came with my BP res. thank you +rep

Im also interested on the result using the bottom picture with bolts and nuts. But the sandwich does do wonder and stops most of the vibration from transferring to the case. Let me know what worked for you


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

I just have mine sat on packaging foam


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snowfree52*
> 
> guys, any idea how I could improve my loop ?


Dude, that is one heck of a setup you got there. I do have have some sugestions for you.

If you want to improve the look try rotating the top Rad so that the tube connections are toward the front of the case.

I read that you may bo adding athe GPU to the loop so you could change your loop order to go from Pump - Front Rad - Top Rad- GPU - CPU - Res.

For now, since it is just the CPU go straight out of the pump into the front radiator and then out of the radiator, hiding the tubing behind the front radiator, up into the top radiator. Come out of the top radiator into CPU and out of the CPU into the Reservior.

Short tubing runs look much better, Loop order will have no real impact on performance so always choose the tube routing that will look the best.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> I just have mine sat on packaging foam


This.
We use 1" thick, very soft foam for our shipping cases at work. I grabbed a piece of scrap and have my pump sitting on it. Quiet as a mouse.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Just did 2 orders, just waiting on my 2nd Lightning to arrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


You better be overclocking those things nice and proper.


----------



## Shoggy




----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*






My god that's amazing.


----------



## PinzaC55

I think I'll buy 2 of those even though I don't own a Titan


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Holy hell...


----------



## bundymania

AC will release this block in 1-2 weeks


----------



## GEEKICON

Damn this block looks so sexy. Now if only i had a titan


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










so beautiful (and suddenly something got into my eye)

is this design a Titan exclusive?


----------



## lowfat

No ifs, ands, or buts... That IS the best looking GPU block ever. ZOMG. I want a Titan just for that block.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm tempted to get those even though I already have the EK blocks...


----------



## Witchdoctor

Just got done with this build


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor*
> 
> Just got done with this build


Can I please come and live at your house!!!

Or can I pay you to do mine lol,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*












You make 680 blocks with that design and i will seriously reconsider my love affair with Watercool.
You send me 3 680 blocks with this design and i will get a Aquacomputer tattoo.

Nice fine channels and a lovely bit of engineering,between AC and WC no one comes close.

Ps....Niko,thats how its done man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor*
> 
> Just got done with this build


Nice work.









Not sure on the case tho with a ATX board....just looks wrong to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Can I please come and live at your house!!!
> 
> Or can I pay you to do mine lol,


You know im in the UK right? I can and already have gone to people just to plumb rigs up


----------



## Witchdoctor

I hear ya, looks like an MITX board in there ............. lmao

I needed the cooling prowless of quad/quads ,

the TH10 case represented a good chice for that and it also has enough wide open space to make copper tubing a viable solution


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*


WOW


----------



## Retaliation87

This is my recently built TJ07. Picked it up for a pretty good price last year and just finished cleaning it up. Sorry bout the phone pics














.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You make 680 blocks with that design and i will seriously reconsider my love affair with Watercool.


The GTX 680 block will be available in this design soon. This block will be also based on the kryographics series. So if someone already hoped to convert his aquagrafx block to a plexiglas variant - it will not be possible.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor*
> 
> Just got done with this build


At the risk of opening up an old sore that Sir is EPIC


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The GTX 680 block will be available in this design soon. This block will be also based on the kryographics series. So if someone already hoped to convert his aquagrafx block to a plexiglas variant - it will not be possible.


Between your block and XSPC's, my EK blocks may never leave their boxes. What threading are the screws? Basically, EVGA backplate fitment?


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The GTX 680 block will be available in this design soon. This block will be also based on the kryographics series. So if someone already hoped to convert his aquagrafx block to a plexiglas variant - it will not be possible.


How about a 7970 block with this design?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You make 680 blocks with that design and i will seriously reconsider my love affair with Watercool.


People in this club are sometimes so verbally creative









Also,
Quote:


> You send me 3 680 blocks with this design and i will get a Aquacomputer tattoo.


i can see a new and weird OCN gallery club thread emerging









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The GTX 680 block will be available in this design soon. This block will be also based on the kryographics series. So if someone already hoped to convert his aquagrafx block to a plexiglas variant - it will not be possible.
> 
> 
> 
> How about a 7970 block with this design?
Click to expand...

also interested to know.

(btw, was it considered Aquacomputer to have sort of a darker variant of the water blocks? i.e. like black chrome or some kind of a dark plating)


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sploooooge


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Between your block and XSPC's, my EK blocks may never leave their boxes. What threading are the screws? Basically, EVGA backplate fitment?


The block uses M3 threads but why do you want to use a passive backplate? That is so 2012









We will offer an active backplate for the Titan block very soon. So far I have only some renderings:



















And another little smart thing is also waiting around the corner








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> (btw, was it considered Aquacomputer to have sort of a darker variant of the water blocks? i.e. like black chrome or some kind of a dark plating)


There are so many possibilities but when should we produce all that stuff?







We already played with some different things from time to time but quite often we were not happy with the quality how it came out in the end or we had doubts if that would sell well.

*HD7970:* at the moment I can not tell if this one will be also available with a Plexiglas top.


----------



## Fonne

Some amazing new stuff from Aquacomputer


----------



## Kimir

I love the design of my Aquacomputer stuff, but those are really







indeed !


----------



## lowfat

Damn that is some fancy design work. I really hope your next CPU block will follow a similar pattern. Everything else out there seems so dull now.









EDIT: Wait, that is water through that pipe? I was expecting a heatpipe.

EDIT2: I don't suppose those fittings are something else you guys are coming out with?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The block uses M3 threads but why do you want to use a passive backplate? That is so 2012
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will offer an active backplate for the Titan block very soon. So far I have only some renderings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another little smart thing is also waiting around the corner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are so many possibilities but when should we produce all that stuff?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We already played with some different things from time to time but quite often we were not happy with the quality how it came out in the end or we had doubts if that would sell well.
> 
> *HD7970:* at the moment I can not tell if this one will be also available with a Plexiglas top.


This is next level. Pretty sure everyone else has some catching up to do. Amazing job. I now know why I have 2 of your 680 blocks.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The block uses M3 threads but why do you want to use a passive backplate? That is so 2012
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will offer an active backplate for the Titan block very soon. So far I have only some renderings:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [_....snip_]



















If you guys did that for the ASUS Rampage IV Extreme so that the VRM's on the backside of the motherboard were cooled like that I would buy that today!!!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> EDIT: Wait, that is water through that pipe? I was expecting a heatpipe.
> 
> EDIT2: I don't suppose those fittings are something else you guys are coming out with?


It is using a so called anti gravity heat pipe which means it does not matter in which direction the card is installed, the heat will be always transfered to the connection terminal on the side where it has direct contact to the water.

I found the heat transfer performance pretty impressive because so far I had not much to do with that kind of stuff. The boss just gave me one heatpipe and asked me to run some warm water from the tap and to stick the heatpipe into it. It took only a short moment before the other end between my fingers became damn hot









The fittings are also something that we have in development but there is no real date for them. They feature some nice functions which make them pretty complicated to produce. We only have a handful of 3D printed prototypes here for tests and so far that looks good. One day they will be available for sure


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The block uses M3 threads but why do you want to use a passive backplate? That is so 2012
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will offer an active backplate for the Titan block very soon. So far I have only some renderings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another little smart thing is also waiting around the corner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are so many possibilities but when should we produce all that stuff?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We already played with some different things from time to time but quite often we were not happy with the quality how it came out in the end or we had doubts if that would sell well.
> 
> *HD7970:* at the moment I can not tell if this one will be also available with a Plexiglas top.


firstly, that is one great looking masterpiece there








secondly, i juts wished to know if it was considered at any point and now i know that it has been. (i guess that if it hasn't produced good results then it is to be, though i am sure some around here would like to see the so called failed attempt so we could compare to the new sexy Ttan block







. who knows, maybe we would actually like it?)

the better question might be does the kryographics series include within it the red camp (aka 7970) and if it does, does all the GPUs which are in the series have all the variants of the block to their respective card?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It is using a so called anti gravity heat pipe which means it does not matter in which direction the card is installed, the heat will be always transfered to the connection terminal on the side where it has direct contact to the water.
> 
> I found the heat transfer performance pretty impressive because so far I had not much to do with that kind of stuff. The boss just gave me one heatpipe and asked me to run some warm water from the tap and to stick the heatpipe into it. It took only a short moment before the other end between my fingers became damn hot


Nice idea for a card (which for now, only the Titan really needs it though while other cards won't lose from it i guess it isn't that cheap to include in a block).
don't mean to sound offensive or mean but to me it sounded a bit like your boss enjoyed the demonstration a bit


----------



## Zaca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*


Now that is a waterblock
















and combined with this backplate



would be perfection

Beautiful


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I second the active cooling for RIVE blocks. Would love to solve that issue with something a bit more elegant than a random, out of place fan blowing over the back...


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> No ifs, ands, or buts... That IS the best looking GPU block ever. ZOMG. I want a Titan just for that block.


This, coming from Lowfat, is HIGH praise...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm tempted to get those even though I already have the EK blocks...


This, coming from the cat that just bought his EKs.... Makes me cry for him at night...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor*
> 
> Just got done with this build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And you sir, make me sick.









To the Titan blocks:
Aquacomputer is always *slightly* slower than the competition, but look at the results!
I swear I thought I was looking at a CAD rendering of the flowpath and not an actual block with clear cover plate...
That makes me so mad...









Thanks - T


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks amazing! Rival for BP blocks, ? (in terms of looks)


----------



## Solonowarion

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*






That is some next level ish


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow wish there had been a 680 equiv of that when I bought my block for my 670







. That is a work of art.









Also I'm thinking about upgrading from my 800D to a 900D. Are there any other good watercooling cases in its price range? I don't want a double width case like the Caselabs though.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Wow wish there had been a 680 equiv of that when I bought my block for my 670
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That is a work of art.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I'm thinking about upgrading from my 800D to a 900D. Are there any other good watercooling cases in its price range? I don't want a double width case like the Caselabs though.


One of the Cmstorm cases, the enforcer has 2 2x120mm and a 120mm. the stryker has even more


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> One of the Cmstorm cases, the enforcer has 2 2x120mm and a 120mm. the stryker has even more


*edit* Just ordered the 900D from amazon. But still open to suggestions as it is out of stock atm. Anyone interested in getting one they are probably the best retailer / etailer on price atm at $335. If you have prime it is prime eligible so free 2-day and $3.99 next day.

I'm wanting overkill







. I've already got a RX360 and planning on adding more. I'm probably just going to jump on the 900d for the room for a 480 on the bottom.


----------



## h2spartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*


Dammit and I just bought this koolance block. I might send it back and just hold out for the Aquacomputer one


Btw anyone here own the Koolance one? If so, how does it perform?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

So is the blue part of the block or is that just for an idea of what colored coolant will look like in the block? Probably a stupid question but whatever...


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canis-X*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you guys did that for the ASUS Rampage IV Extreme so that the VRM's on the backside of the motherboard were cooled like that I would buy that today!!!


THIS!!!

And I would buy it.... YESTERDAY!!!

For real, I have been wanting a motherboard block kit for my RIVE for so long, but the only one that I think looks at all good is the MIPS full board kit. I have been hoping and praying that the kit would become available again at a US Retailer for months no with no luck









However, if you guys were to produce a Rampage IV Extreme Motherboard Block Kit in the same design as your absolutely stunning new GPU Blocks, I can promise you I'd be one of the first people to start throwing money at you!


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*


Hot damn, this is beautiful.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> THIS!!!
> 
> And I would buy it.... YESTERDAY!!!
> 
> For real, I have been wanting a motherboard block kit for my RIVE for so long, but the only one that I think looks at all good is the MIPS full board kit. I have been hoping and praying that the kit would become available again at a US Retailer for months no with no luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, if you guys were to produce a Rampage IV Extreme Motherboard Block Kit in the same design as your absolutely stunning new GPU Blocks, I can promise you I'd be one of the first people to start throwing money at you!


I think my EK RIVE blocks in nickel plexi look really good but there is still the matter of VRM active cooling...


----------



## handi420

Just got mine finished!


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Pretty elegant, odd coolant color choice.


----------



## lowfat

Starting the water cooled HTPC project. So pumped.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> Just got mine finished!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that's all inside a Switch 810?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Starting the water cooled HTPC project. So pumped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What happened to "Big"?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So is the blue part of the block or is that just for an idea of what colored coolant will look like in the block? Probably a stupid question but whatever...


Yeah man I was actually thinking the same thing and didnt want to ask. I think there is blue coolant in there to show.


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow, that's all inside a Switch 810?
> What happened to "Big"?


Yeah i had to do a bit of grinding on the board heatsink to fit the top rad in there but.. fits like a glove now!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The block uses M3 threads but why do you want to use a passive backplate? That is so 2012
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will offer an active backplate for the Titan block very soon. So far I have only some renderings:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another little smart thing is also waiting around the corner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are so many possibilities but when should we produce all that stuff?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We already played with some different things from time to time but quite often we were not happy with the quality how it came out in the end or we had doubts if that would sell well.
> 
> *HD7970:* at the moment I can not tell if this one will be also available with a Plexiglas top.


I have an unopened EK block in front of me and another in the mail. Offer the block and backplate as a package (i'm assuming aquatuning.us is the place to get these the fastest?) and I will sell/send the EK blocks back at/for a loss in the blink of an eye. I am seriously in love with what you've done there.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> What happened to "Big"?


On the back burner but not forgotten. The board needs to be RMA'd. Will start up on it again likely after I finish w/ this.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I think my EK RIVE blocks in nickel plexi look really good but there is still the matter of VRM active cooling...


Not hating on the EK Blocks, I just don't think they fit my build AT ALL.... I suppose I could go with the Copper/Plexi one, but that would mean either my build takes on a lot more of a copper "theme" than the subtle hints it has now, or I use Dye in my loop (which I was hoping to avoid)....


----------



## DonPablo83

Hey guys, thought i'd come here and ask for some criticism and direction regarding my first water cool system.
my hardware specs are on my sig and i intend on running one single serial loop to keep things simple. so far, my list is as follows and i'd appreciate any input u folks might have.

Black Ice SR1 560 Radiator x 2 (externally mounted)
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Clear 1/2ID 3/4OD
MCP655 Pump x2 (one between res and first rad - the other between 2nd rad and cpu block)
XSPC RayStorm CPU Waterblock Chrome Edition
Bitspower Luxury Tube Clamp Silver (decided against compression fittings)
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 400 ICE Black Reservoir (mounted internally)
Noctua NF-A14 FLX 140mm Fan

my intended loop is as follows

x

Pump 1

Rad 1

Rad 2

Pump 2

Cpu Block

Gpu 1 Block

Gpu 2 Block

Gpu 3 Block

Res

x

i've already got 3x koolance titan blocks coming. these are the major components i'm looking to get, i didn't include things like fan shrouds/dist filters, etc, i just included the critical components.
am i on the right track here? any experienced users care to provide any kind of feedback, i'd be much appreciative. i'll post pics once i've received and assembled all my parts.

cheers!


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> Just got mine finished!


The Detail. . .That cabling. . Wow! One of a kind Really.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> Hey guys, thought i'd come here and ask for some criticism and direction regarding my first water cool system.
> my hardware specs are on my sig and i intend on running one single serial loop to keep things simple. so far, my list is as follows and i'd appreciate any input u folks might have.
> 
> Black Ice SR1 560 Radiator x 2 (externally mounted)
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Clear 1/2ID 3/4OD
> MCP655 Pump x2 (one between res and first rad - the other between 2nd rad and cpu block)
> XSPC RayStorm CPU Waterblock Chrome Edition
> Bitspower Luxury Tube Clamp Silver (decided against compression fittings)
> Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 400 ICE Black Reservoir (mounted internally)
> Noctua NF-A14 FLX 140mm Fan
> 
> my intended loop is as follows
> 
> x
> 
> Pump 1
> 
> Rad 1
> 
> Rad 2
> 
> Pump 2
> 
> Cpu Block
> 
> Gpu 1 Block
> 
> Gpu 2 Block
> 
> Gpu 3 Block
> 
> Res
> 
> x
> 
> i've already got 3x koolance titan blocks coming. these are the major components i'm looking to get, i didn't include things like fan shrouds/dist filters, etc, i just included the critical components.
> am i on the right track here? any experienced users care to provide any kind of feedback, i'd be much appreciative. i'll post pics once i've received and assembled all my parts.
> 
> cheers!


I'd put pumps in series right next to each other instead of separating them. Also placing them before a rad since it dumps a small amount of heat in loop depending on pumps used. Also let us know about tubing. I've never seen anyone use the clear from primoflex before and at that size.


----------



## Noskcaj

what two pumps would be best for a Volenti?
loop1: res, pump, heat exchanger, cpu block, gpu lock, res
loop2: Volenti box, pump, tubes.

i'm using 1/2" generic tubing for the volenti and primoflex red 7/16" for the PC.
i'm able to use submersible pumps due to the size of the volenti.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So is the blue part of the block or is that just for an idea of what colored coolant will look like in the block? Probably a stupid question but whatever...


It is blue coolant. The Plexiglas top itself is clear.


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> I'd put pumps in series right next to each other instead of separating them. Also placing them before a rad since it dumps a small amount of heat in loop depending on pumps used. Also let us know about tubing. I've never seen anyone use the clear from primoflex before and at that size.


Interesting thought. I considered putting two pumps together but I thought that separating them might create a more consistent flow and maintain pressure. Sounds like that might not be the case. I'll be uploading pics once I get it up and going regarding the 1/2 clear tubing. Steering away from uv reactive colours, im more interested in function/performance vs aesthetics


----------



## Marscorpion

Hi,
i had already shown these images but they were too small....


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> Hi,
> i had already shown these images but they were too small....


really nice job







love your cable sleeving and management







How are the Coolgate rads?


----------



## Marscorpion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> really nice job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love your cable sleeving and management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are the Coolgate rads?


Radiator on the top is a coolgate 420, while the other is a XSPC Rx360.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> Radiator on the top is a coolgate 420, while the other is a XSPC Rx360.


...could not see the second rad but I meant it generally. I don't know much about Coolgate rads, I just saw a couple of days ago that they are quite expensive. So my question was actually if Coolgate rads perform well and if they are better with low rpm fans or high rpm fans









Edit:
Of course every rad performs better with more airflow but some benifit alot from higher fanspeeds and others don't. Do you know the fpi of that rad?


----------



## natsu2014

Coolgate is low FPi rad, one the best on the market. Just look at this test and comparison of 360 radiators http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157540


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> Just got mine finished!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice







. def love the individual wires through the holes for your psu, gpu and
motherboard power. maybe I have never noticed on other builds but sort of first time
I have seen that.. good job.. only suggestion..throw a bit more of that same green/blue (turquoise?)
colour around in there..even RAM heatsink in that colour just to make a bit more a contrast..
but either way excellent .
I have a turquoise that I just noticed would match perfectin your
build..lol.and it's irisescent


----------



## DrewWyber

My build:


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . def love the individual wires through the holes for your psu, gpu and
> motherboard power. maybe I have never noticed on other builds but sort of first time
> I have seen that.. good job.. only suggestion..throw a bit more of that same green/blue (turquoise?)
> colour around in there..even RAM heatsink in that colour just to make a bit more a contrast..
> but either way excellent .
> I have a turquoise that I just noticed would match perfectin your
> build..lol.and it's irisescent


Thanks man.

Not too sure i'm going to be sticking with this liquid tho, its not supposed to be used with 24/7 every day use systems. Gonna try it for a month or two and see how much the pearl degrades. If its bad i'll change it out for some. Wonder what a copper colored liquid would look like in there.

But yeah i need to do something with the contrast.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Coolgate is low FPi rad, one the best on the market. Just look at this test and comparison of 360 radiators http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157540


That's a nice test, thanks


----------



## rationalthinking

This is my Titan build in its current state. NO WHERE NEAR BEING FINISHED but good enough for now. I will take better pictures this weekend and post, just didn't have time to set up my lamps with Easter Weekend.

Do you guys think I should change the black tubing for clear? Also switching to Pastel White from the Mayhem Pastel Black. Also what can I do to "bring out" my D5 a little more? I would it to be more of a center piece.


----------



## Kimir

Those black tubing look good to me.


White tubing on it's way for mine.







Will have to find the time to put them on...


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrewWyber*
> 
> My build:


Trade me your room setup


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> This is my Titan build in its current state. NO WHERE NEAR BEING FINISHED but good enough for now. I will take better pictures this weekend and post, just didn't have time to set up my lamps with Easter Weekend.
> 
> Do you guys think I should change the black tubing for clear? Also switching to Pastel White from the Mayhem Pastel Black. Also what can I do to "bring out" my D5 a little more? I would it to be more of a center piece.


Personally I would say red tubing. Red and black always make a striking combination.

Fabulous rig BTW


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> This is my Titan build in its current state. NO WHERE NEAR BEING FINISHED but good enough for now. I will take better pictures this weekend and post, just didn't have time to set up my lamps with Easter Weekend.
> 
> Do you guys think I should change the black tubing for clear? Also switching to Pastel White from the Mayhem Pastel Black. Also what can I do to "bring out" my D5 a little more? I would it to be more of a center piece.


I thought the HAF-x would be my upgrade from a level 10gt, or a COrsair 800D but man im loving the case you have more than ever... sweet setup








im confused, is Caselabs SM8 the same as the corsair obsidian 650d?


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> ... Also what can I do to "bring out" my D5 a little more? I would it to be more of a center piece.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You could get you some white acrylic and box in the psu, extending it past enough to flush mount your pump block. Either face up or on the side, the contrast of the pump block set against the white would look very nice I think.


----------



## bmacks1

Very nice rig. Would agree with the black\red color suggestion above. Would look sweet.


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> This is my Titan build in its current state. NO WHERE NEAR BEING FINISHED but good enough for now. I will take better pictures this weekend and post, just didn't have time to set up my lamps with Easter Weekend.
> 
> Do you guys think I should change the black tubing for clear? Also switching to Pastel White from the Mayhem Pastel Black. Also what can I do to "bring out" my D5 a little more? I would it to be more of a center piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> /quote]
> 
> I thought the HAF-x would be my upgrade from a level 10gt, or a COrsair 800D but man im loving the case you have more than ever... sweet setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im confused, is Caselabs SM8 the same as the corsair obsidian 650d?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh no, my 2nd rig is a 650D the rig posted is a SM8.
Click to expand...


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> ... Also what can I do to "bring out" my D5 a little more? I would it to be more of a center piece.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could get you some white acrylic and box in the psu, extending it past enough to flush mount your pump block. Either face up or on the side, the contrast of the pump block set against the white would look very nice I think.
Click to expand...

This is a nice idea I will looking into. Thanks.


----------



## mr one

Looks good cart and loop update?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Starting the water cooled HTPC project. So pumped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd like to see more of this......build log?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> Hi,
> i had already shown these images but they were too small....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice man! Very clean build!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> This is my Titan build in its current state. NO WHERE NEAR BEING FINISHED but good enough for now. I will take better pictures this weekend and post, just didn't have time to set up my lamps with Easter Weekend.
> Do you guys think I should change the black tubing for clear? Also switching to Pastel White from the Mayhem Pastel Black. Also what can I do to "bring out" my D5 a little more? I would it to be more of a center piece.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it the way it is, Stealthy looking. I would throw in some LED's if you wanted to brighten it up.


----------



## kcuestag

I need some help finding compatible waterblocks for this card:

http://www.informaticagarrido.es/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=51566&category_id=17&keyword=7970&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=65&lang=es

The reference number is 11197-11-21G, I believe it has reference PCB, but I can't find this exact card in the cooling configurator using that reference number. any ideas?

Also, do you know if it has voltage control?


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I need some help finding compatible waterblocks for this card:
> 
> http://www.informaticagarrido.es/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=51566&category_id=17&keyword=7970&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=65&lang=es
> 
> The reference number is 11197-11-21G, I believe it has reference PCB, but I can't find this exact card in the cooling configurator using that reference number. any ideas?
> 
> Also, do you know if it has voltage control?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I need some help finding compatible waterblocks for this card:
> 
> http://www.informaticagarrido.es/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=51566&category_id=17&keyword=7970&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=65&lang=es
> 
> The reference number is 11197-11-21G, I believe it has reference PCB, but I can't find this exact card in the cooling configurator using that reference number. any ideas?
> 
> Also, do you know if it has voltage control?


a quick search tells me that it is either a complete ref design card (pcb and blower) but also could be a 7970 Sapphire OC card which might be problematic. does it have a ref cooler?

either way, i'm sure that pictures could help. take a few (of the card in general, the back of it and the PCB) and compare to ref pics.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> a quick search tells me that it is either a complete ref design card (pcb and blower) but also could be a 7970 Sapphire OC card which might be problematic. does it have a ref cooler?
> 
> either way, i'm sure that pictures could help. take a few (of the card in general, the back of it and the PCB) and compare to ref pics.


I didn't buy it yet, that's why I'm asking.

The site shows it's a reference card with reference blower cooler.


----------



## kcuestag

I think I'll go for a pair of *VTX3D Radeon HD 7970 X-Edition* instead, they have black PCB and an extra phase.

Edit:

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=632

It says visual compatibility, does this mean it's 100% compatible with those full cover blocks?


----------



## driftingforlife

Why the change?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Why the change?


I feel like changing, I've had the cards since release a year ago, longest I've had a GPU!

Not to mention lately there's been too many issues with Battlefield 3 and their drivers, while other games are completely fine, BF3 is the only game I really play.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Anyone have experience with the Bitspower D5 mod kit? Does it do anything else besides visual modification?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I need some help finding compatible waterblocks for this card:
> 
> http://www.informaticagarrido.es/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=51566&category_id=17&keyword=7970&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=65&lang=es
> 
> The reference number is 11197-11-21G, I believe it has reference PCB, but I can't find this exact card in the cooling configurator using that reference number. any ideas?
> 
> Also, do you know if it has voltage control?


I had the same problem a few weeks ago. The closest number on the cooling configurator website is 11197-11, so my first thought was that maybe they just omitted the last three digits of the code for some reason. However, cooling configurator says that 11197-11 is a non-ref PCB with a custom cooler and when I search 11197-11-*21G* a lot of websites including Amazon show pictures of it with a stock cooler. Some further digging showed me that the non-ref card shown on cooling configurator might be 11197-11-*40G*, not 11197-11-*21G*.

I've also heard from some people that the newer Sapphire 7970s are voltage locked, although a lot of people still seem to be getting non-voltage locked cards as well so it may vary by model.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I had the same problem a few weeks ago. The closest number on the cooling configurator website is 11197-11, so my first thought was that maybe they just omitted the last three digits of the code for some reason. However, cooling configurator says that 11197-11 is a non-ref PCB with a custom cooler and when I search 11197-11-*21G* a lot of websites including Amazon show pictures of it with a stock cooler. Some further digging showed me that the non-ref card shown on cooling configurator might be 11197-11-*40G*, not 11197-11-*21G*.
> 
> I've also heard from some people that the newer Sapphire 7970s are voltage locked, although a lot of people still seem to be getting non-voltage locked cards as well so it may vary by model.


Yeah, I'm going for the VTX3D Radeon HD 7970 X-Edition instead, black reference PCB but with an extra power phase, cooling configurator says they're compatible with the EK blocks!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah, I'm going for the VTX3D Radeon HD 7970 X-Edition instead, black reference PCB but with an extra power phase, cooling configurator says they're compatible with the EK blocks!


Yeah, might be the safer bet. I'm not too fond of Sapphire either after I had a really terrible RMA experience with them here in Canada. I had to RMA a 7970 for coil whine and after about 2 months if came back with even worse coil whine. Sent it to them again and didn't hear anything for over 2 and a half months again so I eventually managed to get my money back but overall I lost about $100 and 4 months of gaming time out of the whole fiasco.


----------



## golfergolfer

Just a quick thing here I will be buying some tubing for my next build and want something that will last. I have had problems with plasiticizer before and dont want it again. Is there one brand of tubing that is fail safe? Perhaps some Tygon?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just a quick thing here I will be buying some tubing for my next build and want something that will last. I have had problems with plasiticizer before and dont want it again. Is there one brand of tubing that is fail safe? Perhaps some Tygon?


Not speaking from personal experience, but I have heard good things about Duralene and Primochill Advanced LRT. AFAIK, Duralene is only sold at Sidewinder


----------



## NewHighScore

Ive had no problems with my feser clear tubing and mayhem pastel. no plasticizer here.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just a quick thing here I will be buying some tubing for my next build and want something that will last. I have had problems with plasiticizer before and dont want it again. Is there one brand of tubing that is fail safe? Perhaps some Tygon?
> 
> 
> 
> Not speaking from personal experience, but I have heard good things about Duralene and Primochill Advanced LRT. AFAIK, Duralene is only sold at Sidewinder
Click to expand...

I've got Duralene from them. This is my first time for WC but as far as I can tell it's great.


----------



## kcuestag

Since I'll be running my cards with an extra slot space, like I run my 680's now, I'd need this right?

http://prosilentpc.com/es/slicrossfire/464--ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial-csq-plexi-.html

With that EK FC Triple bridge, can I actually use it for 2 cards (Slot 1 and 3) or do I need to use all 3 cards?

Edit:

These are the blocks I'll be using: http://prosilentpc.com/es/amd-ati-serie-7/269-ek-fc7970-nickel-csq-.html

It's a straight trade from a clan mate, the blocks are unused, and it has the EK Link thingie on them.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Since I'll be running my cards with an extra slot space, like I run my 680's now, I'd need this right?
> 
> http://prosilentpc.com/es/slicrossfire/464--ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial-csq-plexi-.html
> 
> With that EK FC Triple bridge, can I actually use it for 2 cards (Slot 1 and 3) or do I need to use all 3 cards?


You do not want that bridge, ek makes one for 2 cards in 3 slot spacing motherboards.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Since I'll be running my cards with an extra slot space, like I run my 680's now, I'd need this right?
> 
> http://prosilentpc.com/es/slicrossfire/464--ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial-csq-plexi-.html
> 
> With that EK FC Triple bridge, can I actually use it for 2 cards (Slot 1 and 3) or do I need to use all 3 cards?


You need this for the middle.

http://prosilentpc.com/es/slicrossfire/460-ek-fc-link-blank-serial-csq-plexi-.html


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> You do not want that bridge, ek makes one for 2 cards in 3 slot spacing motherboards.


http://prosilentpc.com/es/slicrossfire/466--ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel-3-slot-csq-plexi-.html

That one? But it's parallel though, can't find the serial one, hmm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> You need this for the middle.
> 
> http://prosilentpc.com/es/slicrossfire/460-ek-fc-link-blank-serial-csq-plexi-.html


Really? can't I just close those them with 1/4 threaded caps?


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Really? can't I just close those them with 1/4 threaded caps?


No, how will the water get to the next card, it a *serial* bridge (one after the other)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> No, how will the water get to the next card, it a *serial* bridge (one after the other)


http://prosilentpc.com/es/slicrossfire/466--ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel-3-slot-csq-plexi-.html

With a parallel I shouldn't need it right?

Not sure if I want parallel or serial cooling, I've always used Serial on my cards. Might just go the cheap route like I did w ith my 680's and use 90º fittings and some tubing. XD


----------



## driftingforlife

With a parallel you need this, I ran parallel on my 470 and i'm going to run it with my 680's.

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-link-blank-parallel-csq-plate


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> With a parallel you need this, I ran parallel on my 470 and i'm going to run it with my 680's.
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-link-blank-parallel-csq-plate


Thanks!









I'll think about doing that or just going cheap and using 90º fittings with some tubing.


----------



## Hogwasher

little update

got some orange tubing and a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm Radiator

made a mistake, can anyone find my goof?









I might need to break down and do a build log instead of putting updates here


----------



## Canis-X

upside-down PSU?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> 
> 
> little update
> 
> got some orange tubing and a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm Radiator
> 
> made a mistake, can anyone find my goof?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might need to break down and do a build log instead of putting updates here


Maybe something to do with the CPU block?

btw, i love how the monsta rad in your rig is essentially saying to the rest of the components:"you thought you were big huh? think again"


----------



## JerseyDubbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> 
> 
> little update
> 
> got some orange tubing and a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm Radiator
> 
> made a mistake, can anyone find my goof?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might need to break down and do a build log instead of putting updates here


You forgot the GPU blocks? 

Upside down PSU gets my vote too


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*
> 
> You forgot the GPU blocks?
> 
> Upside down PSU gets my vote too


You guys know there is no specified way for a PSU to mount right? It doesn't matter.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> You guys know there is no specified way for a PSU to mount right? It doesn't matter.


The electrons might get confused and go the wrong way.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*
> 
> You forgot the GPU blocks?
> 
> Upside down PSU gets my vote too
> 
> 
> 
> You guys know there is no specified way for a PSU to mount right? It doesn't matter.
Click to expand...

True,but when you are watercooling i think fan down is a safer prospect than fan up.

A drip into that PSU and its lights out.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> True,but when you are watercooling i think fan down is a safer prospect than fan up.
> 
> A drip into that PSU and its lights out.


Drips are terrible... I never get drips, something always gushes out somewhere. Like when I forget to put the tank caps on my radiators and start filling the other side of the loop


----------



## Rakin

Opinions?


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Maybe something to do with the CPU block?
> 
> btw, i love how the monsta rad in your rig is essentially saying to the rest of the components:"you thought you were big huh? think again"


yes it's the CPU block mistake. I have the flow going into the out port.

I'm too lazy so it's going to have to stay until the weekend.
But I'm getting good temps. So it shouldn't be the end of the world
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*
> 
> You forgot the GPU blocks?
> 
> Upside down PSU gets my vote too


Not forgotten just waiting on funds


----------



## natsu2014

Which tubing should I use if I want to do a straight line without using too many adapters? I need a tubing that can hold it's own weight and don't know which one should I choose. My masterkleer isn't the best for that


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> small tubing love it. (looking for something between awesome and cute to describe this masterpiece)





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Yeah, once I had it together, I thought the same thing, "cute". The word inspired me to order a completely new set of fittings and tube. Moving up to 1/2" OD. Going to do a little modding also, and move my loop order around a bit too, to try and lose some heat from the GPU's before it hits the CPU. Also, who-da thought that the 140mm rad wouldn't have fit against the rear of the case? Not me.



Looks alright there...



And then I went and put those plastic 90deg connectors on and ruined it.
So yeah, they'll be gone when my new fittings show up.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Which tubing should I use if I want to do a straight line without using too many adapters? I need a tubing that can hold it's own weight and don't know which one should I choose. My masterkleer isn't the best for that


I just ordered some of this stuff
http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Extruded-Plexiglass-Acrylic-Tubing/ACREXT-500X-375
was going to give it a try. Going to try it with compression fittings while applying some heat to it, and if that doesn't work, I'll use the Bitspower crystal link fittings.

If it doesn't work out, I'll have a bunch of giant straws...lol


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not speaking from personal experience, but I have heard good things about Duralene and Primochill Advanced LRT. AFAIK, Duralene is only sold at Sidewinder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Ive had no problems with my feser clear tubing and mayhem pastel. no plasticizer here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I've got Duralene from them. This is my first time for WC but as far as I can tell it's great.


Thanks for the answers guys! I will see if I can get my hands on some Duralene


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> True,but when you are watercooling i think fan down is a safer prospect than fan up.
> 
> A drip into that PSU and its lights out.


actually i'm thankful for this advice, never thought of this scenario and always wanted a fan up PSU for the looks (and i mainly blame TTL for that).

but on the other hand, the one time unforgettable experience, the unique sound and once in a lifetime smell of physical and metaphorical faliure would give you a life shaping experience that is a must








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions?


besides the lack of GPU (







) block it is very nice. i guess it is a DDC down there with the XSPC res top right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> yes it's the CPU block mistake. I have the flow going into the out port.
> 
> I'm too lazy so it's going to have to stay until the weekend.
> But I'm getting good temps. So it shouldn't be the end of the world
> Not forgotten just waiting on funds


the difference beside aestheticall is so small that i don't really think it is worth stripping your loop and refilling just to rotate the CPU block. (though i might be wrong on this, would like if someone corrected me if i am mistaken)

but when (not if







) you get GPU blocks consider it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, once I had it together, I thought the same thing, "cute". The word inspired me to order a completely new set of fittings and tube. Moving up to 1/2" OD. Going to do a little modding also, and move my loop order around a bit too, to try and lose some heat from the GPU's before it hits the CPU. Also, who-da thought that the 140mm rad wouldn't have fit against the rear of the case? Not me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: meantime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks alright there...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then I went and put those plastic 90deg connectors on and ruined it.
> So yeah, they'll be gone when my new fittings show up.


if you talk about the two red ones between the internals of the case and the basement then yeah, they are quite the wet party crashers.
but what are those black angle fittings in the rest of the loop?

also, waiting to see your build complete since you use a black theme with red accents with clear tubing and a red coolant and you have those red corsair cables. really want to see how those cables work in your build so i could decide whether to get black or red for myself (since i plan something in the same spirit)


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Ok so I realize I'm probably going to get crap for this, but here is the beginning of my career in watercooling. I am finally happy with my build for the time being (going to add a third 7950 (another TFIII) before I purchase everything. Got my second 7950 about a month ago, a new ASUS MVE (LOVE IT + It is SEXYYY) about a week ago, and with it I got a nice white Phantom 820 (lots and lots of room for rads). So I'm starting to do research on a full waterloop and I'm very excited to get started. So until then I purchased..... an H100i. Still, it does work pretty damn good. Better temps than my Noctua NH-D14 that I had before it. So here is my rig as it stands now (waiting for my Seasonic to get back from RMA







Also, another note: My GPU power cables were bothering the hell out of my so now they are neatly tucked away and look a lot better than it does in the picture. Anyways, those are my plans. EK blocks all around and some white UV tubing with a nice resevoir and I should be all set. Very excited to start this new project!!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Also, has anyone ever used a car radiator with some mounted shop fans to watercool? haha I think that would be so beastly!!! Just a silly though roaming around my head I wouldn't actually do it myself, but I know some people here like to go all out.

but for a serious question, can I mount two radiators pretty much on top of eachother? Like one on top of the inside of the case and one on the top of the outside of the case? Here I'll make a diagram.



Is something like that possible?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Also, has anyone ever used a car radiator with some mounted shop fans to watercool? haha I think that would be so beastly!!! Just a silly though roaming around my head I wouldn't actually do it myself, but I know some people here like to go all out.


I saw someone at the local forum with budget water cooling
He uses a bike radiator, it works but since the radiator is small , only a dual or triple 80mm fan can fit and its as loud as it can be.
Maybe if you can grab a proper size radiator it would work better, watch for the material of the radiator itself. Get a copper one


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys,
So I picked up a DDC pump, and it is just to loud for me. I do have a Eheim 1046 laying around somewhere around here and am wondering if it would be beneficial to use that(besides being dead silent) how is the flow compared to the DDC?
I know the GPH is lower on the Eheim but is that really a big deal?


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Also, has anyone ever used a car radiator with some mounted shop fans to watercool? haha I think that would be so beastly!!! Just a silly though roaming around my head I wouldn't actually do it myself, but I know some people here like to go all out.
> 
> but for a serious question, can I mount two radiators pretty much on top of eachother? Like one on top of the inside of the case and one on the top of the outside of the case? Here I'll make a diagram.
> 
> 
> 
> Is something like that possible?


it's been done. but you need a massive pump.
get heater cores or transmission coolers instead.

and yes, double mounting works.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> it's been done. but you need a massive pump.
> get heater cores or transmission coolers instead.
> 
> and yes, double mounting works.


Awesome thank you!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Also, has anyone ever used a car radiator with some mounted shop fans to watercool? haha I think that would be so beastly!!! Just a silly though roaming around my head I wouldn't actually do it myself, but I know some people here like to go all out.
> 
> but for a serious question, can I mount two radiators pretty much on top of eachother? Like one on top of the inside of the case and one on the top of the outside of the case? Here I'll make a diagram.
> 
> 
> 
> *Is something like that possible?*


Yes its possible and I recommend it if you don't have a lot of room for radiators. (Its basically like using a thick radiator)

sate200 build.

2 x Radiators in sandwhich and with parallel connection.


----------



## lowfat

Stacked radiators like that will not perform any better than just one radiator.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Stacked radiators like that will not perform any better than just one radiator.


Evidence pl0x


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Yes its possible and I recommend it if you don't have a lot of room for radiators. (Its basically like using a thick radiator)
> 
> sate200 build.
> 
> 2 x Radiators in sandwhich and with parallel connection.


Well I do have a phantom 820 so I have a lot of room for rads. I'm going to put a dual 120 on the bottom, single 140 on the rear, triple 120 on the top, and a dual 120 on the swivel fan mount on the hdd cage. I'm going for overkill and I hope that will achieve it!


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Stacked radiators like that will not perform any better than just one radiator.


I would think it would perform better. It's just acting like a super thick rad.

In my experience thicker rad perform better then thin ones


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Stacked radiators like that will not perform any better than just one radiator.


Why?

So there is no need to get thicker rad? I would like to understand why?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Also, has anyone ever used a car radiator with some mounted shop fans to watercool? haha I think that would be so beastly!!! Just a silly though roaming around my head I wouldn't actually do it myself, but I know some people here like to go all out.
> 
> but for a serious question, can I mount two radiators pretty much on top of eachother? Like one on top of the inside of the case and one on the top of the outside of the case? Here I'll make a diagram.
> 
> 
> 
> Is something like that possible?


first, someone on this forum used car rads in his bong loop. massive loop and great temps.

you can stack rads but fans, fan placement and water flow order through the rads matter and make the difference. there is info and links across google. just google stacked rads.


----------



## Jakusonfire

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?220874-More-Radiator-Sandwich-testing


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?220874-More-Radiator-Sandwich-testing


If you read the thread, you clearly see that the OP was messed. In other threads, he had different results.
Quote:


> I also tested with the radiators in parallel flow, but I lost some of the data and got the rest mixed up, so I'll have to redo those tests.


Lol.


----------



## KSIMP88

H80+Accelero HD7970


----------



## RingingEars

Here's my Pinnacle.
Next week I have a couple AquagraFX 670 blocks coming for the GPUs, another XSPC RX360 rad, and some more Bitspower fittings to complete it.
I'm planning on flipping the mobo upside down so you can see it from the right(my left)...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> If you read the thread, you clearly see that the OP was messed. In other threads, he had different results.
> Lol.


Uhhh ... not quite. If you read it he refers to the other threads as rudimentary and these done with better equipment.

How exactly does losing the parallel data (which is not included) affect anything.

LOL


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> first, someone on this forum used car rads in his bong loop. massive loop and great temps.
> 
> you can stack rads but fans, fan placement and water flow order through the rads matter and make the difference. there is info and links across google. just google stacked rads.


That is awesome. What is a bong loop? Does it just act like the flow of a bong? Maybe with some perculators? I mean... what is a bong?









Does anyone have links to pics to that? I would LOVE to see it


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> first, someone on this forum used car rads in his bong loop. massive loop and great temps.
> 
> you can stack rads but fans, fan placement and water flow order through the rads matter and make the difference. there is info and links across google. just google stacked rads.


That is awesome. What is a bong loop? Does it just act like the flow of a bong? Maybe with some perculators? I mean... what is a bong?









Does anyone have links to pics to that? I would LOVE to see it


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Uhhh ... not quite. If you read it he refers to the other threads as rudimentary and these done with better equipment.
> 
> How exactly does losing the parallel data (which is not included) affect anything.
> 
> LOL


Well, the pictures I have posted of the stack radiators are in parallel.

LOL


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Well, the pictures I have posted of the stack radiators are in parallel.
> 
> LOL


I remember Martin did a review about stacked radiators and came to the conclusion that 2 stacked would perform just like one alone.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That is awesome. What is a bong loop? Does it just act like the flow of a bong? Maybe with some perculators? I mean... what is a bong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have links to pics to that? I would LOVE to see it


https://www.google.com/search?q=pc+cooling+bong&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a

plenty of pics n links to mainly older set-ups. schmuckley on here still runs his bong.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So if I have 4 rads in my case should I run a single loop with three 7950's and a 3770k or would it be a good idea to run two loops . If I run two loops would I need two pumps and two resevoirs?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So if I have 4 rads in my case should I run a single loop with three 7950's and a 3770k or would it be a good idea to run two loops . If I run two loops would I need two pumps and two resevoirs?


You should have two pumps anyways with a loop like that. But I am always a fan of single loops. Plumbing the loop will generally be less of a headache.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So if I have 4 rads in my case should I run a single loop with three 7950's and a 3770k or would it be a good idea to run two loops . If I run two loops would I need two pumps and two resevoirs?


You'd be fine on a single loop, and single pump too (D5 for example).

But 3 7950's is a lot of heat, the CPU would get a bit hot, so 2 loops would be nice if you can afford it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You should have two pumps anyways with a loop like that. But I am always a fan of single loops. Plumbing the loop will generally be less of a headache.


Deppends on the pump, an MCX or D5 would do just fine with 3 GPU's and a CPU and 3-4 rads.


----------



## PwndN00b

All the fittings are Koolance, the straight and 90 deg compressions anyway. The 45 deg adapters on the CPU block are Phobya. I gotta get the cables sorted a little better, personalized a little, but here's how it sits so I can finally play a little.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I remember Martin did a review about stacked radiators and came to the conclusion that 2 stacked would perform just like one alone.


I believe Martin has posted the same data that was shown a little bit up :

clicky martinsliquidlab clicky

Heat transfer fundamentals will tell you what has been said before: as the air flows through the radiator, it heats up. As it heats up, the heat transfer becomes less important, making the whole cooling process less effective. Nothing you can do about it.









Now, I think everyone will agree that 2 separate radiators can't perform any worse than 2 stacked radiators.

Yes, technically, a thicker rad should perform better than a thinner one (it has more water to air surface), ASSUMING that the air exit temperature does not reach that of the water (or close). Since I haven't done any calculations or data acquisition , I can't tell if the common watercooling radiator/fan combo manages to "deplete" the cooling potential.

That being said, I'd be willing to bet hard money that the performance gain of going for a Monsta vs the UT60 is pretty insignificant on the average setup.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> You'd be fine on a single loop, and single pump too (D5 for example).
> 
> But 3 7950's is a lot of heat, the CPU would get a bit hot, so 2 loops would be nice if you can afford it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Deppends on the pump, an MCX or D5 would do just fine with 3 GPU's and a CPU and 3-4 rads.


How about this pump?
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sicumclad5wi.html


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> How about this pump?
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sicumclad5wi.html


This is a perfect pump, you can modify the inlet and outlet with Compression fittings if you want. No need for custom top. (Not vario though)


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So if I have 4 rads in my case should I run a single loop with three 7950's and a 3770k or would it be a good idea to run two loops . If I run two loops would I need two pumps and two resevoirs?


I would go with two pumps for that
For me two pumps isnt all about the pressure power. Its about safety, with that many water cooled valuable components. If the only pump you run died, you will pretty much ruin everything, but with dual pump...
Well you'll figure it out









But personally, not a fan of dual loop. It ruins the aesthetic if you dont have a compatible case


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I would go with two pumps for that
> For me two pumps isnt all about the pressure power. Its about safety, with that many water cooled valuable components. If the only pump you run died, you will pretty much ruin everything, but with dual pump...
> Well you'll figure it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But personally, not a fan of dual loop. It ruins the aesthetic if you dont have a compatible case


So I should get two of these ( tp://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sicumclad5wi.html )? It would probably be a good idea since It's going to have a bunch of rads and components to go through, the extra power would help push it through, right? I'm not really interested in doing a dual loop.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I should get two of these ( tp://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sicumclad5wi.html )? It would probably be a good idea since It's going to have a bunch of rads and components to go through, the extra power would help push it through, right? I'm not really interested in doing a dual loop.


You wouldnt go wrong with two of those. Make sure you also grab some good dual top something from the bitspower/ek or something along those line.
Though my favorite is still mcp35x. It runs hotter and louder but the heat dump to the liquid is less than those of d5. You can also control the speed to the loudness of your choice

But again you wouldnt go wrong with a d5 either


----------



## KaRLiToS

Dual loop is not even an option _for me_ , I would prefer adding another Dual D5 top in the middle of the loop if it was possible to have 8 x GPU cards.

*My choice order*


MCP 655
MCP35x


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I should get two of these ( tp://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sicumclad5wi.html )? It would probably be a good idea since It's going to have a bunch of rads and components to go through, the extra power would help push it through, right? I'm not really interested in doing a dual loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> You wouldnt go wrong with two of those. Make sure you also grab some good dual top something from the bitspower/ek or something along those line.
> Though my favorite is still mcp35x. It runs hotter and louder but the heat dump to the liquid is less than those of d5. You can also control the speed to the loudness of your choice
> 
> But again you wouldnt go wrong with a d5 either


it would be pointless to buy a pair of that particular pump if you will buy a dual top unless you plan to sell just the pumps or top later.


----------



## MNModder

ok so I know that this is an older case but its what I bought for my first build ever which slowly transitioned over to my current build. I recently changed over to water cooling and this is the result I Like it because I have not seen too many builds in this case and have yet to see anyone do what I've don or fit what I've fit in this case rad wise anyways. I know it would look way better painted but was too excited to get my WCing set up plus I plan on getting a new case soon!!!!!







Anyways let me know what you think I plan on still doing a few more things but would love to hear some ideas.










Top rad HWLabs GTX 480 GT AP 31 x 4 5400 rpm fan 150 cfm static pressure 15.24 mmH2O on a fan controller
one rear Corsair sp120 High performance
Koolance 370 cpu block
2 full cover 6970 EK EN blocks
lower rad XSPC EX 360 with 3 Corsair sp120 High performance fans
Alphacool VPP655 HF top variable speed pump
XSPC 5.25" bay res
case Thermaltake armour plus

Sorry for the crappy photos taken from my iphone


----------



## kingchris

Got one side finished nearly and the other sides not that far off!



The el wire lighting!


----------



## MNModder

wow Kingchris thanks for posting right after me making my set up look like doffy doodoo J/K looks great man jealous


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> wow Kingchris thanks for posting right after me making my set up look like doffy doodoo J/K looks great man jealous


Sorry man. Still looks good, if it fits! Fit it! do love the psu placement. had mine in the front bays on the last build..


----------



## MNModder

thanks man I had that idea for a long time was just afraid to actually cut up the case that color scheme looks great love the sleeving and the lighting


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys,
> So I picked up a DDC pump, and it is just to loud for me. I do have a Eheim 1046 laying around somewhere around here and am wondering if it would be beneficial to use that(besides being dead silent) how is the flow compared to the DDC?
> I know the GPH is lower on the Eheim but is that really a big deal?


Flow is not that important as many guys think. I reduced the pump speed of my DDC down to 50% without any changes at temps at all.

To adjust pump speed of a Laing DDC you can use a Aquacomputer Poweradjust which comes with a configurable startboost. As you probably know DDCs don't start at lower voltages than 9-10V. So my pump runs for the first 10 seconds on full speed and then slows down to inaudible 50% which is about 6.2V. I can only highly recommend the Poweradjust to all DDC users. Its around 30-40 bucks and works like a charme


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Stacked radiators like that will not perform any better than just one radiator.


+1
Martin did very through testing with rad stacking/sandwiching,the results were very poor compared to seperate rads and to be avoided.
The second rad gets warm air from the first rad with no dilution and also suffered from the airbrake effect from the first rad.


----------



## natsu2014

I want to change my fittings and I'm wondering (since I very much like EK fittings) is it possible to put 16/10 hose on 16/11 fitting? Also which fitting You would recommend (except BP caus'e I'm not gonna pay that much for fittings)


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I want to change my fittings and I'm wondering (since I very much like EK fittings) is it possible to put 16/10 hose on 16/11 fitting? Also which fitting You would recommend (except BP caus'e I'm not gonna pay that much for fittings)


I'm using 16/10 Alphacool fittings. They are very nice for the price


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Got one side finished nearly and the other sides not that far off!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The el wire lighting!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hehe..nice..







i used some EL wire to detail the whole outside of my first build..i love that stuff lol
not sure if you've also seen the EL Strips (like the wire but are 1 to 2 " thick/wide) and the
EL Sheets. the El sheets are cool.you can cut them into anything you want and it still glows.
I think after i'm done with my new build i'll go back and re-do my first build with some EL sheets
on my rads and pump etc.. also some fluorescent paint.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I want to change my fittings and I'm wondering (since I very much like EK fittings) is it possible to put 16/10 hose on 16/11 fitting? Also which fitting You would recommend (except BP caus'e I'm not gonna pay that much for fittings)


XSPC do nice simple working fittings. Usually a pretty good price as well.


----------



## bono2099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> All the fittings are Koolance, the straight and 90 deg compressions anyway. The 45 deg adapters on the CPU block are Phobya. I gotta get the cables sorted a little better, personalized a little, but here's how it sits so I can finally play a little.


Nice job with the rig. Aside from the cabling that you are going to improve, I would recommend you consider 2x bitspower case through fittings for the mid place section. It will make your build stand out even more


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bono2099*
> 
> Nice job with the rig. Aside from the cabling that you are going to improve, I would recommend you consider 2x bitspower case through fittings for the mid place section. It will make your build stand out even more


Any time someone does a build with a mid-plate they should be using these. Will cost a bit more on fittings but it looks so much better.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Any time someone does a build with a mid-plate they should be using these. Will cost a bit more on fittings but it looks so much better.


I agree, I really like the BP "Bulkhead" fittings!

Also, HOT DAM that EL Wire looks awesome! I have never used it before, but now I HAVE to buy some to try it out!!! :O


----------



## longroadtrip

Coming soon...


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Any time someone does a build with a mid-plate they should be using these. Will cost a bit more on fittings but it looks so much better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bono2099*
> 
> Nice job with the rig. Aside from the cabling that you are going to improve, I would recommend you consider 2x bitspower case through fittings for the mid place section. It will make your build stand out even more


Yeah, they're on order with a few other things. Upgrading tubing/size, going to add some acrylic also. Hoping to do a little modding, shifting all dependant of course on how lazy I get when I get home in the next few days.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Coming soon...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those look pretty sweet!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Coming soon...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










perty. (i ahve no idea why but for some unknown reason these remind me of cannons)

what tubing/coolant are you planning to use with these? (black?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Yeah, they're on order with a few other things. Upgrading tubing/size, going to add some acrylic also. Hoping to do a little modding, shifting all dependant of course on how lazy I get when I get home in the next few days.


i don't know how much you would care, but these have recently became available on PPCS:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=274&main_page=index


Spoiler: Acrylicy







Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> perty. (i ahve no idea why but for some unknown reason these remind me of cannons)
> 
> what tubing/coolant are you planning to use with these? (black?)
> i don't know how much you would care, but these have recently became available on PPCS:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=274&main_page=index
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Acrylicy


Using Advanced LRT clear with Mayhems Pastel White...









Yeah..I had seen those, but this is going into a Prodigy build. I was initially going to do copper pipe, but decided to go with tubing for this build instead.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Using Advanced LRT clear with Mayhems Pastel White...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah..I had seen those, but this is going into a Prodigy build. I was initially going to do copper pipe, but decided to go with tubing for this build instead.


nice choice on tubing and coolant for those beauties.

could you please give the link to that prodigy build? it already sounds like a great one and just want to see those fittings and tubes in action.


----------



## longroadtrip

It's in my siggy...Yin and Yang...


----------



## LuckyNumber13

so started to finally put my build together.
more pics to come in the next few days as I slap the rest of it in there















got my fans with final clear coat drying right now so will look better when those are on.


----------



## kcuestag

Hi guys,

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/VGA-Watercoolers/VGA-Coolers-for-ATI/Watercool-Heatkiller-GPU-X%B3-79X0-Ni-Bl::21090.html

That Heatkiller waterblock is for reference HD7970 right? I kinda like it a lot more than the EK CSQ model, and It's the one I'll buy as soon as I can confirm it'll work on reference design pcb of HD7970!

Thanks!


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/VGA-Watercoolers/VGA-Coolers-for-ATI/Watercool-Heatkiller-GPU-X%B3-79X0-Ni-Bl::21090.html
> 
> That Heatkiller waterblock is for reference HD7970 right? I kinda like it a lot more than the EK CSQ model, and It's the one I'll buy as soon as I can confirm it'll work on reference design pcb of HD7970!
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, it is the reference PCB waterblock.

Notice the reseller number in the middle of the description: 15021

That number is basically the "Heatkiller product number". The same block can be found here with the same product number: LINK


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Yes, it is the reference PCB waterblock.
> 
> Notice the reseller number in the middle of the description: 15021
> 
> That number is basically the "Heatkiller product number". The same block can be found here with the same product number: LINK


Thanks, I saw B NEGATIVE uses those blocks for his GTX670 Tri-SLI, and I really like them compared to the EK ones, so I'll be going with a pair of those for my 7970's.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks, I saw B NEGATIVE uses those blocks for his GTX670 Tri-SLI, and I really like them compared to the EK ones, so I'll be going with a pair of those for my 7970's.


switching from 680s to 7970s?


----------



## audioholic

Guys I know this has been asked a bazillion times, but I am thinking about getting a D5 Vario pump.
I currently have a DDC but it is way to loud for my liking. I also have an Eheim pump that I was spoiled with for awhile but do not feel like running a plug directly to the wall.
Would it be best to get just the D5 Vario motor only and then do the BP mod kit? I already have the reservoir(Z tank 150)
I am just looking for quiet, which is why I am thinking the Vario is the best choice, and I am only running a CPU and GPU block with very short tubing runs ( in my BF Prodigy)

I just want to make sure I am making a good purchase and wont be disappointed coming from the DDC to D5


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> switching from 680s to 7970s?


Yeah, tired of Nvidia drivers being crap lately, as much as I hated AMD for that before, I'm now starting to hate Nvidia haha.

I promise some nice pictures, specially for B NEGATIVE who loves heatkillers blocks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> switching from 680s to 7970s?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, tired of Nvidia drivers being crap lately, as much as I hated AMD for that before, I'm now starting to hate Nvidia haha.
> 
> I promise some nice pictures, specially for B NEGATIVE who loves heatkillers blocks
Click to expand...

I do like a bit of HK,that is true......

Those new kryographix from AC are also my flavour of the minute.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah, tired of Nvidia drivers being crap lately, as much as I hated AMD for that before, I'm now starting to hate Nvidia haha.
> 
> I promise some nice pictures, specially for B NEGATIVE who loves heatkillers blocks


Yeah, AMD has really stepped it up in the driver department! Almost makes me regret my GTX 680, but I do like the fact that it's from EVGA. If only they made AMD cards as well...


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> so started to finally put my build together.
> more pics to come in the next few days as I slap the rest of it in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got my fans with final clear coat drying right now so will look better when those are on.


you owe me (and possibly a few others) a new pair of pants









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah, tired of Nvidia drivers being crap lately, as much as I hated AMD for that before, I'm now starting to hate Nvidia haha.
> 
> I promise some nice pictures, specially for B NEGATIVE who loves heatkillers blocks


you know an industry has achieved something when both of the only competitors in it has managed to annoy the consumer by their offerings.
(but if you care you'll get those games)

also, those HK blocks should also fit on ref 7950.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Make sure you also grab some good dual top something from the bitspower/ek or something along those line.


What do you mean by this? I'm still confused by all of this stuff. I thought all I would need is a resevoir, enough tubing for one loop, all of the blocks, all of the rads, two pumps, and compression fittings. What else should I get?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1
> Martin did very through testing with rad stacking/sandwiching,the results were very poor compared to seperate rads and to be avoided.
> The second rad gets warm air from the first rad with no dilution and also suffered from the airbrake effect from the first rad.


What if I fed the water to the top rad first and then down to the rad on the bottom of the stack?


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah, tired of Nvidia drivers being crap lately, as much as I hated AMD for that before, I'm now starting to hate Nvidia haha.
> 
> I promise some nice pictures, specially for B NEGATIVE who loves heatkillers blocks


Don't forget me, I need a dose of HeatKiller p0rn!!!









BTW, they also happen to be THE top performers when it comes to 79x0 blocks


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What do you mean by this? I'm still confused by all of this stuff. I thought all I would need is a resevoir, enough tubing for one loop, all of the blocks, all of the rads, two pumps, and compression fittings. What else should I get?


The D5's, as they come, are not as well-optimized performance-wise as they could be (not to mention they are, quite frankly, ugly as sin). While it is certainly 100% possibly to simply plumb one pump into another, the dual pump tops makes everything easier, provides the performance benefits of an aftermarket top, makes the pumps look a LOT better, and makes mounting much easier. You can even, with a dual D5 top, connect a cylinder reservoir directly to the dual-pump top's G1/4 inlet via Bitspower Male to Male Rotary Coupler Fitting (and 10/15/20/25/40/50mm extension, if you want to give some distance between the res and pumps).

This one's my favorite:

*Bitspower BP-2D5TOPP-BK Dual D5 Mod Top (POM Version)*



You can pair it with the following to add a reservoir and whatnot:

*Bitspower Dual/Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit with 150mL Reservoir (Black POM Cap)*




And if you really want to make them pretty, you can add Mod Kits, such as the following:

*Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit - Matte Black Finish*





Other colors are available as well....







D5's, while not my personal choice in pump, sure are customizable!


----------



## Devildog83

I kow a lot of people do some strange things with watercooling and was wondering if anyone would want this hunk of aluminum that is a MAC water cooling system. Don't want money except maybe for shipping. The radiator is 7" wide by 5.5" tall and the fins are 1.25" thick and the tank are 1.5". The base is also solid aluminum 1/2" thick and 7"x7".


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I kow a lot of people do some strange things with watercooling and was wondering if anyone would want this hunk of aluminum that is a MAC water cooling system. Don't want money except maybe for shipping. The radiator is 7" wide by 5.5" tall and the fins are 1.25" thick and the tank are 1.5". The base is also solid aluminum 1/2" thick and 7"x7".


sell the pump alone, everything else is ****. the pump is similar to a ddc (i think)


----------



## spizzlo

I'd like to join the club. I'm new to liquid cooling. I got this Zalman-LQ320 for $40 after MIR and I'm loving it so far!


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> sell the pump alone, everything else is ****. the pump is similar to a ddc (i think)


Sell the pump and recycle the aluminum, OK.


----------



## DonPablo83

Heres a question for the u water coolers out there. Ive seen a lot more water cooled builds with tube reservoirs vs bay reservoirs. Is there some sort of benefit in having a tube reservoir vs a bay reservoir?


----------



## w-moffatt

So noob question guys still trying to price up and wrap my head around this watercooling stuff.

This is the compression fittings im looking at

Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White 1/2 Compression Fitting CC5

and im wanting to add the

Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White 45 Degree Rotary Adapter

Do i have to purchase compression fittings to adapt onto both ends or just one? cause looking at the photos i only need 1 fitting for 1 of the ends...


----------



## Sammyboy83

It's easier too fill and bleed the loop with tube reservoirs. And it's much easier to find a larger tube res(more coolant) vs bay res.


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> It's easier too fill and bleed the loop with tube reservoirs. And it's much easier to find a larger tube res(more coolant) vs bay res.


ah, very good. my choice between getting either or is based on ease of mounting it in the case. currently i'm looking at the koolance rp 452x2 rev2.0, as mentioned, because its said that its a little easier to bleed than previous versions... so i've read. any contrary thoughts?


----------



## Moheevi_chess

Still need to adjust the positioning of the pump in order to remove the slight kink in the tubing between the res and pump. Other than that I'm pretty happy with the build.


----------



## w-moffatt

Are you planning on cooling the gpus? Cause that's a lot of tubing for CPU cooling lol


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> ah, very good. my choice between getting either or is based on ease of mounting it in the case. currently i'm looking at the koolance rp 452x2 rev2.0, as mentioned, because its said that its a little easier to bleed than previous versions... so i've read. any contrary thoughts?


the other advantage with tube reservoirs is they have no "dead zones" some the take dye better.


----------



## Moheevi_chess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Are you planning on cooling the gpus? Cause that's a lot of tubing for CPU cooling lol


I can't find any full cover blocks for these cards. I'll be WCing my future GPU upgrade for sure.


----------



## PwndN00b

Lol...B Negative, I don't think I ever officially asked to join the club. Can you add me please?


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> the other advantage with tube reservoirs is they have no "dead zones" some the take dye better.


Never heard of 'dead zones'. Glad I came here before I pulled the trigger. Does dead zones have to do with dye related performance? No idea what it is.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What do you mean by this? I'm still confused by all of this stuff. I thought all I would need is a resevoir, enough tubing for one loop, all of the blocks, all of the rads, two pumps, and compression fittings. What else should I get?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> The D5's, as they come, are not as well-optimized performance-wise as they could be (not to mention they are, quite frankly, ugly as sin). While it is certainly 100% possibly to simply plumb one pump into another, the dual pump tops makes everything easier, provides the performance benefits of an aftermarket top, makes the pumps look a LOT better, and makes mounting much easier. You can even, with a dual D5 top, connect a cylinder reservoir directly to the dual-pump top's G1/4 inlet via Bitspower Male to Male Rotary Coupler Fitting (and 10/15/20/25/40/50mm extension, if you want to give some distance between the res and pumps).
> 
> This one's my favorite:
> 
> *Bitspower BP-2D5TOPP-BK Dual D5 Mod Top (POM Version)*
> 
> And if you really want to make them pretty, you can add Mod Kits, such as the following:
> 
> *Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit - Matte Black Finish*
> 
> D5's, while not my personal choice in pump, sure are customizable!


That








well explained
love the red one....


----------



## MNModder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> So noob question guys still trying to price up and wrap my head around this watercooling stuff.
> 
> This is the compression fittings im looking at
> 
> Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White 1/2 Compression Fitting CC5
> 
> and im wanting to add the
> 
> Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White 45 Degree Rotary Adapter
> 
> Do i have to purchase compression fittings to adapt onto both ends or just one? cause looking at the photos i only need 1 fitting for 1 of the ends...


Since one side is threaded on the outside of the 45 degree fitting (male) and the other side is threaded on the inside (female) Im assuming that you will be connecting this 45 degree fitting to a block, rad, pump, reservior, or another fitting in which case the male end will go into that block, rad, pump, reservior, or other fitting and the other will need only the one compression fitting. In short you should only need the one compression fitting unless your to put a 45 degree bend in a tubing run then I would just suggest trying to get the tubing to do that bend or look at one of these. Basically if tubing is going to be on both ends of this fitting then you will need another compression fitting and would want to check out something like a 45 degree female to female fitting. But if you are trying to do something else let us know specifically what that is and we will try to help you.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> Never heard of 'dead zones'. Glad I came here before I pulled the trigger. Does dead zones have to do with dye related performance? No idea what it is.


something i read in the mayhems users club. for aurora, i quote
"Q: Will Aurora block my system?
A: No it should not block you system as it contains particles smaller than 40nm. It can get caught up in crevices in rads and some reservoirs. It will fall out of suspension in dead water areas of systems. This is why a good flow in you system is a must with this liquid."


----------



## KSIMP88

Well, I ran Furmark, Skyrim, 3Dmark...My GPU temps stay below 48*C!!! W00t!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I installed my GTX 480 recently after I did the Easy-OFF trick on my back plate removing the anodize finish. I did the same thing with my GTX 690 EK back plate earlier. Also fixed up my cables a bit too:




I think it looks pretty good.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I installed my GTX 480 recently after I did the Easy-OFF trick on my back plate removing the anodize finish. I did the same thing with my GTX 690 EK back plate earlier. Also fixed up my cables a bit too:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I think it looks pretty good*.


So Humble. (looks great







)

Also, you like to live dangerously with that non filtered rear fan intaking.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> Since one side is threaded on the outside of the 45 degree fitting (male) and the other side is threaded on the inside (female) Im assuming that you will be connecting this 45 degree fitting to a block, rad, pump, reservior, or another fitting in which case the male end will go into that block, rad, pump, reservior, or other fitting and the other will need only the one compression fitting. In short you should only need the one compression fitting unless your to put a 45 degree bend in a tubing run then I would just suggest trying to get the tubing to do that bend or look at one of these. Basically if tubing is going to be on both ends of this fitting then you will need another compression fitting and would want to check out something like a 45 degree female to female fitting. But if you are trying to do something else let us know specifically what that is and we will try to help you.


yeah so the idea is one end will come off the cpu block and out to a piece of tubing. the tubing will then go to another 45 degree bend on the radiator. Same process with GPU. im trying to keep the lines in the tubing as straight as possible and let the fittings do the bending for me. So tubing will only be coming out of 1 end, the other end will be on either rad or block (cpu/gpu)


----------



## MNModder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> yeah so the idea is one end will come off the cpu block and out to a piece of tubing. the tubing will then go to another 45 degree bend on the radiator. Same process with GPU. im trying to keep the lines in the tubing as straight as possible and let the fittings do the bending for me. So tubing will only be coming out of 1 end, the other end will be on either rad or block (cpu/gpu)


So in that case you will only need one compression fitting per 45 degree fitting for where the tubing will connect to the fittings I hope This helps


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Probably one of the nicest looking black and white builds I've seen. Picture looks really grainy though, even opened in a new tab


----------



## minicooper1

thank you very much


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


those HDD blocks, always gets me off gourd









btw, do you plan colored coolant/dye or just distilled?


----------



## Lazy Bear

Looks like just distilled.


----------



## wonderwall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> Nice rig... More pics please!!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Looks like just distilled.


my bad, i meant to ask if colored coolant/dye is planned for the build. (edited OP)


----------



## minicooper1

mayhems distilled


----------



## nicoliani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> so started to finally put my build together.
> more pics to come in the next few days as I slap the rest of it in there


Looking forward on this update, on what fittings and how you will connect, as I have the same RAM-sinks.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wonderwall*


What is that EVGA Clock?? I want , i want.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> What is that EVGA Clock?? I want , i want.


http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=E00B-00-000002


----------



## Modest Mouse

I know it's only an AIO but it's watercooled, Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme. I have a bad feeling this is the first step towards a downward spiral...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> I know it's only an AIO but it's watercooled, Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme. I have a bad feeling this is the first step towards a downward spiral...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


With such a nice and clean rig, you my friend is a poor friend.

Or about to be









Nice setup


----------



## trippinonprozac

Almost finished my rig now so here are some updated shots


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> So in that case you will only need one compression fitting per 45 degree fitting for where the tubing will connect to the fittings I hope This helps


yep it does thanks! Also do you know if these gpu blocks

Heatkiller GPU-X³ 79X0 Water Block Ni-Bl come with plugs for the 2 openings im not using or do i need 2 buy 2 additional plugs?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> Looking forward on this update, on what fittings and how you will connect, as I have the same RAM-sinks.


here's a pic of the fittings i'm using for my build (minus my fillport and coupler as it's already installed on case).
I outlined the "koolance sliding 180 degree U- connectors" that i'm using for my RAM - 33 blocks.

not sure if this is what you meant but also see diagrahm below
I made this a while back kinda re-edited just now real quick...hope this helps..if not check back
in a few days when I have it mostly all done (just waiting on bonus in a week or so , so I can
order gtx titan then is complete..already have block for it and everything lol..)


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> I know it's only an AIO but it's watercooled, Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme. I have a bad feeling this is the first step towards a downward spiral...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


AIO = gateway drug to custom loop and empty wallet


----------



## Modest Mouse

I'm doomed!


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Almost finished my rig now so here are some updated shots


Lookin damm sexy mate









haven't seen oyu on OCAAU for a while


----------



## GEEKICON

trippinonprozac your build looks amazing. More pics please


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> I know it's only an AIO but it's watercooled, Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme. I have a bad feeling this is the first step towards a downward spiral...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With such a nice and clean rig, you my friend is a poor friend.
> 
> Or about to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice setup
Click to expand...

The downward spiral I highly recommend.









Sup guys, miss me?









Planning an htpc build for my girl, need somebody 2 refresh my bitfenix h2o memory. 1/4 or 3/8 fittings? Pic refresher would b helpful. Thanx.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sup guys, miss me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Honestly, I was wondering where you've been!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## PCModderMike

He's back!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Welcome back Ceadderman, I was wondering about you!


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Almost finished my rig now so here are some updated shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very impressive! I'm going to have stage fright while completing my build.


----------



## MNModder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> yep it does thanks! Also do you know if these gpu blocks
> 
> Heatkiller GPU-X³ 79X0 Water Block Ni-Bl come with plugs for the 2 openings im not using or do i need 2 buy 2 additional plugs?


I just watched an unboxing of the copper one and that comes with the two stop fittings so I'm guessing that the one your looking at will too I have EK blocks and they came with stop fittings as well I'm pretty sure most if not all gpu blocks come with them if they are needed


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sup guys, miss me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, I was wondering where you've been!
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> He's back!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Welcome back Ceadderman, I was wondering about you!


Thanks guys...

Still here in Kansas, got a new job M-Thurs and will be at it 4 a good minute. In the meantime looking at building a few systems.









I'm on my 3G tho so if someone has tha pics of a water cooled BitFenix, it would b preciated.









~Ceadder


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> I just watched an unboxing of the copper one and that comes with the two stop fittings so I'm guessing that the one your looking at will too I have EK blocks and they came with stop fittings as well I'm pretty sure most if not all gpu blocks come with them if they are needed


AWESOME thanks for your help! looks like my build is sorted...time to save cash LOL

so this is final build pieces guys just want to make sure im all clear on everything i need! im in the middle of saving the coin as its gunna cost me 750$ to do a basic gpu/cpu loop LOL.

let me know your thoughts!



p.s. sorry for size of image you can zoom if you save it


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> AWESOME thanks for your help! looks like my build is sorted...time to save cash LOL
> 
> so this is final build pieces guys just want to make sure im all clear on everything i need! im in the middle of saving the coin as its gunna cost me 750$ to do a basic gpu/cpu loop LOL.
> 
> let me know your thoughts!
> 
> p.s. sorry for size of image you can zoom if you save it


Welcome to the club!








beware, once youre in, you'll never get out
in a few months you'll be adding more WC components i wanna bet

blue theme loop hey?


----------



## w-moffatt

yep blue and white! going into my white 410 photos in my rig "the great white"... dont even start on the add more parts... i already am planning whats next after this setup LOL


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> AWESOME thanks for your help! looks like my build is sorted...time to save cash LOL
> 
> so this is final build pieces guys just want to make sure im all clear on everything i need! im in the middle of saving the coin as its gunna cost me 750$ to do a basic gpu/cpu loop LOL.
> 
> let me know your thoughts!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. sorry for size of image you can zoom if you save it


you could always hav a look at the koolance pump, also try koolroom and gammods for w/c bits


----------



## w-moffatt

tried both and yes they have great ranging however pc case gear has somewhat of a store front. I've had far to many bad runs with transport and getting rmas...id rather go through these guys (had great experience) But thanks for the input!

Also i'm thinking im gunna change pump and res into this

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21256

what do people think of the pump/res combo, yes it has dual pumps but im planning on running additional gpu's in future....plus i like getting the pump hidden away helps with cleanliness...

thoughts?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Almost finished my rig now so here are some updated shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love me some TJ07 builds. Looking good bud.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> tried both and yes they have great ranging however pc case gear has somewhat of a store front. I've had far to many bad runs with transport and getting rmas...id rather go through these guys (had great experience) But thanks for the input!
> 
> Also i'm thinking im gunna change pump and res into this
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21256
> 
> what do people think of the pump/res combo, yes it has dual pumps but im planning on running additional gpu's in future....plus i like getting the pump hidden away helps with cleanliness...
> 
> thoughts?


Im pretty sure a D5 can handle 2 GPU , 2 rads and 1 CPU blocks

but again for me dual pump isnt all about the pressure, its about protection your valuable components when the pump died

but yes, since youre running it in a mid case, a bay res can help the aesthetic and tidiness
when it comes to 'enough space' case (this is vary between individuals), I always prefer a tube res to show off the coolant


----------



## w-moffatt

^^ I'm not a huge fan for the tub res's personally. But appreciate your input...in terms of a bay res with the option of putting a d5 vario pump into it whats out there?
Cause im happy to go with a res that can house 2 but can run 1 if i choose to run 1 to start!>?


----------



## jokrik

You might find this article helpful to help you plan the pump for your loop HERE

how far is it until you add another gpu?


----------



## Eusbwoa18

I'm moving to a tube res in the hopes that it will be more quiet than my bay res. Too much vibration is transfered to the drive cage. YMMV.


----------



## kcuestag

Ordered a pair of Heatkiller blocks for my coming 2x HD7970's, I started loving them when I saw those blocks on B NEGATIVE's rig.









Also I'll be getting few other goodies this week, a HWLabs SR1 420mm, 3x noctua fans, an XSPC EX120, an EK full cover nickel block for my motherboard, and both HD7970's, holy crap, it's like christmas this week!


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> AWESOME thanks for your help! looks like my build is sorted...time to save cash LOL
> 
> so this is final build pieces guys just want to make sure im all clear on everything i need! im in the middle of saving the coin as its gunna cost me 750$ to do a basic gpu/cpu loop LOL.
> 
> let me know your thoughts!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. sorry for size of image you can zoom if you save it


I would go with a different res, unless you're planning to run your D5 in you dive bay area, I think it would just be a hassle for you and your loop.


----------



## bomberjun




----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> AWESOME thanks for your help! looks like my build is sorted...time to save cash LOL
> 
> so this is final build pieces guys just want to make sure im all clear on everything i need! im in the middle of saving the coin as its gunna cost me 750$ to do a basic gpu/cpu loop LOL.
> 
> let me know your thoughts!
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. sorry for size of image you can zoom if you save it


If you have an account with PCCG, make a "Wish List" then make it public, and share the link. It makes life so much easier









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Something about your builds!!!!!

I love them


----------



## Gleniu

Hello. Here's my first water-cooled rig. More photos under link in my sig.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Hello. Here's my first water-cooled rig. More photos under link in my sig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Now you just need to get that GPU under water and you're good to go! Looks great now by the way!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Now you just need to get that GPU under water and you're good to go! Looks great now by the way!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks Jeffinslaw. I'm just not convinced by the only full-cover water block available for Asus GTX 670 direct CU. I will do it for sure with my next GPU.


----------



## superericla

I updated my build with some led lighting and copper pipe, but need to find my camera since I refuse to go back to using my phone camera.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Hello. Here's my first water-cooled rig. More photos under link in my sig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


One of the cleanest builds I have ever seen for a first time water cooler, my first loop was horrible!


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I would go with a different res, unless you're planning to run your D5 in you dive bay area, I think it would just be a hassle for you and your loop.


im changing the res to a d5 pump and res combo. thoughts?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> You might find this article helpful to help you plan the pump for your loop HERE
> 
> how far is it until you add another gpu?


it'd be a while off as the wc'ing alone is around 850$...


----------



## nicoliani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Hello. Here's my first water-cooled rig. More photos under link in my sig.


All that for the CPU, why?

I can cool CPU, MOSFET/NB, SB, GPU with just two under volted fans on a 360 res.


----------



## PedroC1999

What radiators can you fit inside a Cm 690II Advanced with NO modding? A 240mm on top, can a 240mm go on the bottom with no mods? If so, what thickness for both?


----------



## jake93s

why that case??? such beautiful work being done here. in my mind if you had to have a rad outside your case you need a new and bigger case. i've had to do this with my pc atm, it looks ugly and its impractical. you will be regretting going down this road in time to come. that saying. can't wait to see the final product


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jake93s*
> 
> why that case??? such beautiful work being done here. in my mind if you had to have a rad outside your case you need a new and bigger case. i've had to do this with my pc atm, it looks ugly and its impractical. you will be regretting going down this road in time to come. that saying. can't wait to see the final product


Sorry, what?


----------



## jake93s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> so started to finally put my build together.
> more pics to come in the next few days as I slap the rest of it in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got my fans with final clear coat drying right now so will look better when those are on.


why that case??? such beautiful work being done here. in my mind if you had to have a rad outside your case you need a new and bigger case. i've had to do this with my pc atm, it looks ugly and its impractical. you will be regretting going down this road in time to come, unless you know something that i don't.
that saying. can't wait to see the final product, so please keep the posts coming


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jake93s*
> 
> why that case??? such beautiful work being done here. in my mind if you had to have a rad outside your case you need a new and bigger case. i've had to do this with my pc atm, it looks ugly and its impractical. you will be regretting going down this road in time to come, unless you know something that i don't.
> that saying. can't wait to see the final product, so please keep the posts coming


Ahh Ok, I didnt understand who you were referring to


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jake93s*
> 
> why that case??? such beautiful work being done here. in my mind if you had to have a rad outside your case you need a new and bigger case. i've had to do this with my pc atm, it looks ugly and its impractical. you will be regretting going down this road in time to come, unless you know something that i don't.
> that saying. can't wait to see the final product, so please keep the posts coming


meh..can't win them all over I guess lol..to each their own.
but I love that case. and rad isn't on outside..is now but I have an
extension being built in the process (shiny aluminum hollow bar
+ Clear Plexi (double plexi double etched with one with blue led and
one with white led but is one design in the end) + White acrylic sheet and blue frosted acrylic sheet
all with some led's.. keeping the very top the same just attaching it
to my extension..should look sweet.. I was going to have a slim 480 rad so I
wouldn't have to build extension but said the hell with that..go big or go home.
i'm not scared of a little extra work.
take a look at my build log. I show the alum. bar but haven't
cut it yet..


----------



## wermad

Azza should have done the slots 7+1 on the Genesis rather then xl-atx 10/11. This would have given the top a bit of space to add a good thick rad like a UT60.

Still, looks good Lucky


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> All that for the CPU, why?
> 
> I can cool CPU, MOSFET/NB, SB, GPU with just two under volted fans on a 360 res.


I love overkill







Plus, it helped me to reach 4.9Ghz on my i5-750


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> One of the cleanest builds I have ever seen for a first time water cooler, my first loop was horrible!


Thank you very much, Sir.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What radiators can you fit inside a Cm 690II Advanced with NO modding? A 240mm on top, can a 240mm go on the bottom with no mods? If so, what thickness for both?


No modding:
on top 240x30mm (you put 2 120mm fans on top, between metal top of the case and plastic cover - In my build fans are below and it required some modding)
bottom: 240 will fit tightly (see my build) with max 16cm PSU, thickness - there is a lot of space as you can see, depends on fan config, but 60mm easily.
for bottom watch out for the front fan, but you should be OK with 60mm rad, even with the stock front fan position

you can check Cm 690II Advanced owners thread - a lot of pics there.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1074616/to-the-cm-690-ii-advanced-owners-watercoolign-setups/40


----------



## wermad

^^Use the edit button please







(button with the pencil image).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sup guys, miss me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning an htpc build for my girl, need somebody 2 refresh my bitfenix h2o memory. 1/4 or 3/8 fittings? Pic refresher would b helpful. Thanx.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Wb buddy







Hows the DeathStar build coming along?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^Use the edit button please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (button with the pencil image).
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sup guys, miss me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning an htpc build for my girl, need somebody 2 refresh my bitfenix h2o memory. 1/4 or 3/8 fittings? Pic refresher would b helpful. Thanx.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wb buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hows the DeathStar build coming along?
Click to expand...

Currently shelved atm. Unless u kno how I can build it whilst in another state.







lol

Tho I may get the necessary cases andprep them for it.









~Ceadder


----------



## PedroC1999

What is the best WC case for about £110? Please use PCPartPicker for the prices


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> so started to finally put my build together.
> more pics to come in the next few days as I slap the rest


just my opinion, not even sure if its possible but, I would put the quad rad where the triple is and put the triple vertically in the drive bays


----------



## MiiX

And then place the PSU outside the case?


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> And then place the PSU outside the case?


I didn't think about that. putting this build aside, depending on a persons modding level it might be possible and can be done properly. Your comment has ideas running through my head.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What is the best WC case for about £110? Please use PCPartPicker for the prices


You don't say how much WC you want to put in and this would be important because you would need a larger case, but if you can stretch £16 to £126 I would say the Coolermaster Storm Stryker http://www.coolermaster.co.uk/product.php?product_id=6834


----------



## Ash2097

Ordered all the parts needed for my custom loop so will post back in a few weeks, but this is mine currently.


----------



## PedroC1999

Can I refer you ti this thread?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1377843/cm-690-ii-advanced-radiator-support/0_40#post_19658971


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Eventually another rad will be added and so will a GPU block.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What is the best WC case for about £110? Please use PCPartPicker for the prices


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> You don't say how much WC you want to put in and this would be important because you would need a larger case, but if you can stretch £16 to £126 I would say the Coolermaster Storm Stryker http://www.coolermaster.co.uk/product.php?product_id=6834


I agree. It can be anything such as:-
Cooler Master Storm Trooper
- Top: 240mm, 30mm Thick
- Bottom: 240mm, 30mm Thick
- Front: 240mm, 60mm Thick (two could be sandwiched together)
- Rear: 120mm

Corsair Vengeance C70
- Top: 240mm, 280mm, 360mm (360mm: with minor mod) (all: max 35mm or so thick rad)
- Bottom: 240mm (PSU max length 160mm)
- Rear: 120mm
- Front: 240mm (rad max length 275mm, both HDD bays removed, with minor mod)

Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced
- Top: 240mm, 45mm Thick
- Bottom: 240mm, 60mm Thick
- Rear: 120mm


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If any of my water cooling buddies want to see an in depth comparison between water cooled 7970's and Titans please check out my comparison and let me know what you think!









http://www.overclock.net/t/1377038/megatechpc-presents-sli-gtx-titan-vs-cf-r7970


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced
> - Top: 240mm, 45mm Thick
> - Bottom: 240mm, 60mm Thick
> - Rear: 120mm


I'm pretty sure 45mm in the top will overlap mobo, and it may just not work (e.g. conflict with CPU power socket or power section heatsinks). 30mm is a safe option for top, as it will not overlap mobo.
Even 40mm rad will overlap mobo slightly and may not work with some of the mobos.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

My modified water cooled system. Using the "water blocks" of two Kuhler 620's and a Corsair H80 after gutting them.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> My modified water cooled system. Using the "water blocks" of two Kuhler 620's and a Corsair H80 after gutting them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that's a lot of tubing


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> that's a lot of tubing


Since it's only go cart fuel line, it was pretty inexpensive.

it's not too much really, enough for 2 GPU's a CPU, 2 radiators, a reservoir and a pump.


----------



## ivanng213

hi i am just new to overclock,net
this is my wc computer from hong kong

stage1. cpu watercooling

http://i.uwants.com/u/attachments/day_120907/20120907_50128fab94f382a53d7dh93i7c0wstfk.jpg

stage2. CPU and GPU watercooling ( current )


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> New 6.2" touch screen fitted to the TCM Gaming Cosmos II rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Calibrating and generally messing about with a 6.2" Touch Screen in a Coolermaster Cosmos II_


What the..? How much did that cost man?


----------



## superericla




----------



## minicooper1




----------



## xintence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *canada2005*
> 
> Got a new order from Dazmode today. Pic of rig it is going in and some hardware.
> Aerocool Strike X-Air
> Phobya 200mm + 240mm in the back possibly
> 2600k, Gigabyte Z77X-UD4H
> Not using that ram just testing it (took the waterblock of them)
> Waiting on an order for GTX 670
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Limited Edition Dazmode EK Supreme LTX


omg that ek ltx looks amazing do u know if u can buy the clear top !!!


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I'm thinking about doing a small green/white build. Could anyone post pictures/links to builds with this scheme? Thanks


My Shinobi XL White/Green/Black:




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> just my opinion, not even sure if its possible but, I would put the quad rad where the triple is and put the triple vertically in the drive bays


I was actually thinking that but I was going to have triple on bottom, triple in drive bay area and slim quad ontop.
but changed my mind. really hurts to waste that that room I know but i'll fill it in eventually..
i'll def. re-visit and re-mod this build again and again even after I "finish" lol..
but the only thing i'm stuck on is the orientation of the bottom rad.
1. laying flat down
2. laying on side
any thoughts?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Yes its possible and I recommend it if you don't have a lot of room for radiators. (Its basically like using a thick radiator)
> 
> sate200 build.
> 
> 2 x Radiators in sandwhich and with parallel connection.


This is what I did to put three in my Corsair 800D

















Ignore the mess its a build in progress....


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> My Shinobi XL White/Green/Black:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I remember this build, has it been a year already? Are you still running the same coolant?


----------



## Plutonium10

Does anyone using Tygon Norprene tubing know a good way of taking the white writing off of it?


----------



## wsjackson5

Changed my color scheme and reconfigured my loop. Used Mayhem's pastel berry blue, no wonder it was hard to find in stock, It's awesome. switched from 1/2x5/8 to 7/16x5/8 tygon, WAY better. I really enjoy how I mounted my reservoir. Just need to switch to a triple rad on top and throw in a GPU block. Don't mind the cables, sleeving them is postponed until I order more paracord.


----------



## oelkanne

hope it works...

the rig im working on...still i´m wainting 4 new parts =)

Bitspower Red Fittings second MoRa 4*180 and I´m not shure wht to do with these sidepanels....starting to think of creating a complete custom one...


----------



## NomNomNom

Hey do you guys know how thick of a rad the Fractal R4 supports up top,front, and bottom? Many thanks!


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Hey do you guys know how thick of a rad the Fractal R4 supports up top,front, and bottom? Many thanks!


Fractal R4 supports up to 280 up front with a little modding or 240 without modding. The top will fit a 240 if you offset it a little to the left to avoid touching the motherboard heatsink or memory slots

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b24/fuji7l/Watercooled/20121229_012311_zpsdbb4a149.jpg
http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/fractal_design_define_280_2_140mm_r4_pc_case_mod_corsair_h100_mnpctech.com9s.jpg


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> My Shinobi XL White/Green/Black:


STOP









You make me wanna re-do my current rig to go green









seriously my next build will be using green theme because of you


----------



## mbondPDX

My first custom loop. Started out with the H100 and it somehow turned into this. There are still a lot of things on the to do list but this will do for now.


----------



## wsjackson5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> My first custom loop. Started out with the H100 and it somehow turned into this. There are still a lot of things on the to do list but this will do for now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks very nice and clean, good job


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Hey everyone I am currently in the middle of a rebuild of my water cooling rig that i did about 7 months ago. I started with the CPU and now I am adding my GPU to the loop along with some other things such as adding some Mayhems Pastel Mint Green, a bigger tube res, D5 mods, and fixing some issues with my fans and other things when i did my loop the first time around.

Currently a work in progress, still have a lot of work ahead of me. Never mind the mess.


----------



## jake93s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> meh..can't win them all over I guess lol..to each their own.
> but I love that case. and rad isn't on outside..is now but I have an
> extension being built in the process (shiny aluminum hollow bar
> + Clear Plexi (double plexi double etched with one with blue led and
> one with white led but is one design in the end) + White acrylic sheet and blue frosted acrylic sheet
> all with some led's.. keeping the very top the same just attaching it
> to my extension..should look sweet.. I was going to have a slim 480 rad so I
> wouldn't have to build extension but said the hell with that..go big or go home.
> i'm not scared of a little extra work.
> take a look at my build log. I show the alum. bar but haven't
> cut it yet..


can't wait to see it all done. i don't really mind the case, it fits with what your doing so im all for it


----------



## bundymania

Hello Folks, i´m back with some new pics


----------



## Stickeelion

I can't describe how great this thread is, I recently caught the WC disease and I put an order for a dual GPU, CPU and Mobo loop with all the bitspower and heatkiller bling.

I think I caught it bad too







I just spent $1700 on my WC loop order, Having never done water cooling before would that price be in the ballpark for that kind of loop?


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I can't describe how great this thread is, I recently caught the WC disease and I put an order for a dual GPU, CPU and Mobo loop with all the bitspower and heatkiller bling.
> 
> I think I caught it bad too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just spent $1700 on my WC loop order, Having never done water cooling before would that price be in the ballpark for that kind of loop?


.......

..
....

ouch!
australian dollars


----------



## KurruptAus

I got word of a new mod place opening up in aus to for wc gear


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> I got word of a new mod place opening up in aus to for wc gear


Please enlighten me? Any idea which brands they will stock?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Is dye really a bad idea? Any brands that work okay? Looking for red. Thanks!


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is dye really a bad idea? Any brands that work okay? Looking for red. Thanks!


Define 'bad idea' and 'work okay'? Have a look over at Mayhem Users club. Great info in the thread there especially on the dyes.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> .......
> 
> ..
> ....
> 
> ouch!
> australian dollars


No, that's about what my first shopping cart at FCPU will be like...
Is that abnormally high?

*EDIT: Ok, about $1,300.00 and change... but still!*

Thanks - T


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

This lol, Thanks!
Quote:


> Common Q&A for Dyes
> 
> Q: I have heard from a mystery man or women that dyes can cause a blockage in a water cooling block. Is this true?
> A: No it is not true at all. There are several root causes to the issue of blocking and that falls down to either plasticizer, inhibitors or algae the latter being the rarer of the causes. With tubing a lot of them contain plasticizer and these leach out of the plastic and into the water. This then gathers around the Pins of the block and over time builds up into a sticky residue. What happens at the same time is the dye in the water cooling fluids then "dyes" the residue making people think the route cause is the dye which it is not. The same happens with Inhibitors and algae but in a different manner.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> No, that's about what my first shopping cart at FCPU will be like...
> Is that abnormally high?
> 
> *EDIT: Ok, about $1,300.00 and change... but still!*
> 
> Thanks - T


All depends on what you're trying to cool and what performance you want. It's easy to get a quiet loop or one with a low water/air delta, but where it starts adding up is trying to get a loop that does both, and does it great. My first loop was around $800, 2nd was $2500, and my current one is around $4000. It all depends on what parts are "for you"


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium*
> 
> .......
> 
> ..
> ....
> 
> ouch!
> australian dollars


yeah that's AUS dollars but they are pretty much equal to USD at the moment. still ouch!?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> All depends on what you're trying to cool and what performance you want. It's easy to get a quiet loop or one with a low water/air delta, but where it starts adding up is trying to get a loop that does both, and does it great. My first loop was around $800, 2nd was $2500, and my current one is around $4000. It all depends on what parts are "for you"


Ok you are making me feel a little better now. For that money I'm getting dual D5's with dual bitspower top and mod kit, a 360 and 420 rad, 2xGPU block with bridge and backplates, mobo and CPU block and about 28 various bitspower fittings.
Edit: Oh and $150 shipping as I got it from performance-pcs

do you have a pic of that $4000 loop?


----------



## Qu1ckset

My first and second loop both costed About $1300 CAD, but my current one looks a hell of a lot cleaner then my first loop lol


----------



## Thrasher1016

I'm only cooling my CPU and GPU (with a universal block), and I'm going to have a 240 and a 280 radiator to start with.
Mild overclock, and I'll not ever have a 2- or 3-way card setup, since I'm in mITX (new CL S3 Mercury), so I'm thinking this will be plenty...

I've never bothered to believe the hype when people say "Oh, but I got into my first custom loop for $350!" There's always a catch...









Thanks - T


----------



## Adrenalined

Well after lots of reading and debating, I finally bit the bullet for my first WC loop. Leak testing before I drain and put in some Mayhem.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> yeah that's AUS dollars but they are pretty much equal to USD at the moment. still ouch!?
> Ok you are making me feel a little better now. For that money I'm getting dual D5's with dual bitspower top and mod kit, a 360 and 420 rad, 2xGPU block with bridge and backplates, mobo and CPU block and about 28 various bitspower fittings.
> Edit: Oh and $150 shipping as I got it from performance-pcs
> 
> 
> 
> do you have a pic of that $4000 loop?


His build logs are in his sig block.


----------



## NomNomNom

How thick of a rad can you fit in the top if you offset it?


----------



## mr one

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hello Folks, i´m back with some new pics






Gimme one of them


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hello Folks, i´m back with some new pics


Whoa, what's going on with that XT45 there?
nvm, the light glare made it look like it was bent in some crazy direction and my brain was struggling to see what was going on.
I want an Alphacool rad so bad. They are sooo schmexy


----------



## PwndN00b

It's ridiculous how addictive this is. Start with an H60, move to cooling loop before I even play a game, and again upgrade the loop before I even play a game. I've had my new rig for about 2 months and I'd be lucky to have 10 hrs of power through it. Is it weird to get more satisfaction during the build then after it? I wish it paid well enough to take on full time customs...


----------



## bundymania

...a part of the rad was eaten by the almighty white lightghost !









Look at this, a nice and relative rare block :


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Yay!!
Something that isn't alphacool/phobya!
Anyone would think you were getting paid to post their pics Bundy....XD


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> ...a part of the rad was eaten by the almighty white lightghost !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at this, a nice and relative rare block :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yup, I like it too. I got the red version.

Just wish it had some LED holes, but mine might after the weekend


----------



## Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> It's ridiculous how addictive this is. Start with an H60, move to cooling loop before I even play a game, and again upgrade the loop before I even play a game. I've had my new rig for about 2 months and I'd be lucky to have 10 hrs of power through it. Is it weird to get more satisfaction during the build then after it? I wish it paid well enough to take on full time customs...


We all feel this way


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> It's ridiculous how addictive this is. Start with an H60, move to cooling loop before I even play a game, and again upgrade the loop before I even play a game. I've had my new rig for about 2 months and I'd be lucky to have 10 hrs of power through it. Is it weird to get more satisfaction during the build then after it? I wish it paid well enough to take on full time customs...


Haha I hear ya bud! I started with a H60, went to H100, went to a crappy custom loop that was poorly designed aesthetically before I ended up where I am at now. And I am finally happy!


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> It's ridiculous how addictive this is. Start with an H60, move to cooling loop before I even play a game, and again upgrade the loop before I even play a game. I've had my new rig for about 2 months and I'd be lucky to have 10 hrs of power through it. Is it weird to get more satisfaction during the build then after it? I wish it paid well enough to take on full time customs...


Not at all. I used to buy antiques at auctions and part of the satisfaction was in getting something nobody else had or occasionally "making sure nobody else got it". I guess its a power thing?


----------



## DatNetherbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> It's ridiculous how addictive this is. Start with an H60, move to cooling loop before I even play a game, and again upgrade the loop before I even play a game. I've had my new rig for about 2 months and I'd be lucky to have 10 hrs of power through it. Is it weird to get more satisfaction during the build then after it? I wish it paid well enough to take on full time customs...


I know this feel - I spent months collecting my parts and assembling my loop and I finally finished it about a month ago. I had some real issues with the gpu block fitting my card and my copper pipe push fittings leaking so I was relieved when I finished it. I got about a couple of hours of use out of it and then I overclocked the cpu and the motherboard vrms blew up :'( I'm pretty gutted as I don't really know the extent of the damage yet but i've ordered a new motherboard and I really can't wait to get started on it again... new motherboard, pumps, tubing and all sorts now.


----------



## Noskcaj

Why are all you guys so excited about radiators, i've got an evap cooler, get on my level.


----------



## Noskcaj

Why are all you guys so excited about radiators, i've got an evap cooler, get on my level.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> It's ridiculous how addictive this is. Start with an H60, move to cooling loop before I even play a game, and again upgrade the loop before I even play a game. I've had my new rig for about 2 months and I'd be lucky to have 10 hrs of power through it. Is it weird to get more satisfaction during the build then after it? I wish it paid well enough to take on full time customs...


oh dear I certainly missed the first step of water cooling haha, Hope I manage to assemble it correctly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Not at all. I used to buy antiques at auctions and part of the satisfaction was in getting something nobody else had or occasionally "making sure nobody else got it". I guess its a power thing?


Haha yes! I do that all the time, even in games, in RPG games it's like I must collect eeeeverything


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Why are all you guys so excited about radiators, i've got an evap cooler, get on my level.


Good for you.
I have a few litres of Novac for an immersion build,now try to get on that level.
Or maybe you like phase? There are some guys in this thread that will show you serious cooling.
Also,that heat exchanger in the tank of your unfinished cooler is,in fact,a radiator.....


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I remember this build, has it been a year already? Are you still running the same coolant?


Nah, took it down about 2 months ago, working on the rig in my signature. And yeah, it's been about a year since the initial build, but it went through two different revisions.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> STOP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You make me wanna re-do my current rig to go green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seriously my next build will be using green theme because of you


TYVM!


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good for you.
> I have a few litres of Novac for an immersion build,now try to get on that level.
> Or maybe you like phase? There are some guys in this thread that will show you serious cooling.


true, but my whole system was $250


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good for you.
> I have a few litres of Novac for an immersion build,now try to get on that level.
> Or maybe you like phase? There are some guys in this thread that will show you serious cooling.


true, but my whole system was $250


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good for you.
> I have a few litres of Novac for an immersion build,now try to get on that level.
> Or maybe you like phase? There are some guys in this thread that will show you serious cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> true, but my whole system was $250
Click to expand...

And looks it.

Enjoy the dew point and endless refilling,even moving the rig about will be a chore....
Personally,I would like to move my rig around without dragging half of B+Qs plumbing section around.


----------



## driftingforlife

*off topic*

Did someone say phase










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







*on topic*

I have my 2nd Lightning block and I should get my 2nd 680 thursday, just waiting on SpecialTech to ship my 2 EK links and Koolance SLI fittings.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Just fitted my Red LED's today, really happy with the colour level as well







looks even better in person as the camera does not do it justice!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I really need to get some custom cables rather than this Corsair sleeved AX1200 kit. The kit cables are way too long and as a result I have so much cabling hidden in the bottom of my TJ11 that half of my 560mm rad is almost totally blocked on the back side. I need custom length sleeved cables (but am too lazy to do it myself). Any good custom cable guys on here?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I really need to get some custom cables rather than this Corsair sleeved AX1200 kit. The kit cables are way too long and as a result I have so much cabling hidden in the bottom of my TJ11 that half of my 560mm rad is almost totally blocked on the back side. I need custom length sleeved cables (but am too lazy to do it myself). Any good custom cable guys on here?


You've been on OCN how long?







And never heard of LutroO?









This might be a better place to start asking around. http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> *off topic*
> 
> Did someone say phase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *on topic*
> 
> I have my 2nd Lightning block and I should get my 2nd 680 thursday, just waiting on SpecialTech to ship my 2 EK links and Koolance SLI fittings.


Who mentioned Phase????










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Noskcaj

the advantage of evap is it's easy to make, silent and doesn't make dew.


----------



## bundymania

So the question is, why watercooling anymore, eh ?!
















@Daniel: They produce many new rads these days, so no wonder that i have tons of em


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You've been on OCN how long?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And never heard of LutroO?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a better place to start asking around. http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion


He doesn't have MDPC sleeve anymore so it's kind of a deal breaker IMO. Was going to have him do an entire harness for me, but looks like I'll be doing it myself again


----------



## ivanng213

finally all finished


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Why are all you guys so excited about radiators, i've got an evap cooler, get on my level.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> true, but my whole system was $250
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> the advantage of evap is it's easy to make, silent and doesn't make dew.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Should be careful, this could be considered Trolling









You could end up being


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Someone is trying to claim Milspec as their build on Face book......unimpressed...

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=240395006101000&set=o.343018322461286&type=1&theater&notif_t=comment_mention
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> So the question is, why watercooling anymore, eh ?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Daniel: They produce many new rads these days, so no wonder that i have tons of em


Yeah,I know Alphacool are having a big push on rads right now,seem to be producing good stuff too.


----------



## tiborrr12

Oh the drama!







Chill out people.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Someone is trying to claim Milspec as their build on Face book......unimpressed...
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=240395006101000&set=o.343018322461286&type=1&theater&notif_t=comment_mention
> Yeah,I know Alphacool are having a big push on rads right now,seem to be producing good stuff too.


Not sure if he is claiming it as his own as on his page he says hard pipes would be nice


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Someone is trying to claim Milspec as their build on Face book......unimpressed...
> 
> .


need some water marking work on every pic you have from now on i guess


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> He doesn't have MDPC sleeve anymore so it's kind of a deal breaker IMO. Was going to have him do an entire harness for me, but looks like I'll be doing it myself again


Hmm well damn.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> need some water marking work on every pic you have from now on i guess


This


----------



## kingchris

on water at last! - well leak test!


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Someone is trying to claim Milspec as their build on Face book......unimpressed...
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=240395006101000&set=o.343018322461286&type=1&theater&notif_t=comment_mention
> Yeah,I know Alphacool are having a big push on rads right now,seem to be producing good stuff too.


That Is really low of them to pass it off as their own but B Neg I guess this can be taken as credit to the fact that your builds are just so amazing.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> on water at last! - well leak test!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Where did you get the pcie ribbon?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Someone is trying to claim Milspec as their build on Face book......unimpressed...
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=240395006101000&set=o.343018322461286&type=1&theater&notif_t=comment_mention
> Yeah,I know Alphacool are having a big push on rads right now,seem to be producing good stuff too.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if he is claiming it as his own as on his page he says hard pipes would be nice
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Someone is trying to claim Milspec as their build on Face book......unimpressed...
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=240395006101000&set=o.343018322461286&type=1&theater&notif_t=comment_mention
> Yeah,I know Alphacool are having a big push on rads right now,seem to be producing good stuff too.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if he is claiming it as his own as on his page he says hard pipes would be nice
Click to expand...

Why did he use one of the pics before I started watermarking them when there are lots of pics of it completed with watermarks?


----------



## morencyam

Just watch, when/if he ever responds to it, he's going to say he was never claiming it was his own, he just found it on some forum and thought it was so beautiful that he just had to share it with FB. Some people








My faith in humanity dwindles daily


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why did he use one of the pics before I started watermarking them when there are lots of pics of it completed with watermarks?


that I don't know maybe because they are the first ones you come to in the build log, all I was thinking is because he put "Hard pipes would be something" above it maybe showing what he meant. But it was just a thought


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Someone is trying to claim Milspec as their build on Face book......unimpressed...
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=240395006101000&set=o.343018322461286&type=1&theater&notif_t=comment_mention


I found someone in India last year who tried to enter in one of my rigs in some sort of competition. I now add a watermark to every image I upload now .


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I found someone in India last year who tried to enter in one of my rigs in some sort of competition. I now add a watermark to every image I upload now .


You'd think that for a competition or contest they would require more than just a picture. At the very least a timestamp and username in the picture, like what OCN requires for marketplace postings. Something to prove that it's actually yours


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Someone is trying to claim Milspec as their build on Face book......unimpressed...
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=240395006101000&set=o.343018322461286&type=1&theater&notif_t=comment_mention
> 
> 
> 
> I found someone in India last year who tried to enter in one of my rigs in some sort of competition. I now add a watermark to every image I upload now .
Click to expand...

USForces had a similar problem.....


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Someone posted a screenshot of my 3dmark11 score of my GTX 680 on HWBot as their own. I guess a person does need watermarks in their screenshots.

Funny though, my screenshot had a notepad of "MrTOOSHORT" in it!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I don't really care if somebody steals my pics honestly. I have a Youtube channel with my rigs on them anyway...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I don't really care if somebody steals my pics honestly. I have a Youtube channel with my rigs on them anyway...


That's pretty much how I feel too. It would be almost flattering. Just as long as they aren't getting anything out of it. Not like mine are really anything special though.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Does anyone know whether Primoflex LRT Advanced in blood red is UV or not? Doesn't mention it anywhere, even on the package. Not up for wasting $50 on a led kit if it isn't.

I don't really care either if anyone uses my pics or stats. They don't own the computer, which is really what matters. I build for myself, not others. It's cool to get input on things I should change or modify since people have ideas that I simply don't.


----------



## handi420

If it dose not say that its uv it probably isint..


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> If it dose not say that its uv it probably isint..


Performance-pcs as well as other retailers claim it is while others do not. Would be nice to clarify with someone that has it.


----------



## Zamoldac

I like big blocks and I can not lie!









I finally got me a *GTX295* to play with







.


----------



## bundymania

Today...some thumbs..this and that in the mix

http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_3110muxry.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_404922zek.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_2499reyy9.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_2535u5a11.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_2964iwb65.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4051klx7p.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_41832sba3.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4467x7ag2.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_47351ml2x.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4907c1bke.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_49637olwo.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4966iy6ybm.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_24960hbvu.jpg


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> I like big blocks and I can not lie!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got me a *GTX295* to play with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Wow, old school dual PCB 295..._nice_


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Today...some thumbs..this and that in the mix
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_3110muxry.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_404922zek.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_2499reyy9.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_2535u5a11.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_2964iwb65.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4051klx7p.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_41832sba3.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4467x7ag2.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_47351ml2x.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4907c1bke.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_49637olwo.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4966iy6ybm.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_24960hbvu.jpg


...the images don't pop up. Open in another tab doesn't work either. Is there a trick or is it bugged?


----------



## superericla

I just ordered a pedestal for my ST10. Also, I have some higher quality updated pictures of my build:


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Today...some thumbs..this and that in the mix
> 
> http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_3110muxry.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_404922zek.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_2499reyy9.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_2535u5a11.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_2964iwb65.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4051klx7p.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_41832sba3.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4467x7ag2.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_47351ml2x.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4907c1bke.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_49637olwo.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_4966iy6ybm.jpg http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=img_24960hbvu.jpg


wow... all those fittings


----------



## wermad

I would imagine Bundy's home similar to a hoarder's home. Buried in stuff....wc stuff! I would love to live there!


----------



## Ceadderman

This.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would imagine Bundy's home similar to a hoarder's home. Buried in stuff....wc stuff! I would love to live there!


!This! I always come away from this thread a bit jealouz of Bundy.









~Ceadder


----------



## WiSK

Hello







I thought this thread needed to see an FT03-mini under water. For reference, internally it's only 11 liters, same frame as the SG05.





I still need to sleeve the 'front' panel wires and the GPU fan wire, which is controlling PWM to the pump. Might change the hose to white as well.

It's been folding for a couple of months now with the CPU @ 4200MHz undervolted a bit. Temps are 60-68C on CPU, 47-48C on GPU. Single AX120 used with fans at 1200 rpm (push) and 1400 rpm (pull).


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would imagine Bundy's home similar to a hoarder's home. Buried in stuff....wc stuff! I would love to live there!


I bet it's like Smaug's lair. he probably sleeps on a giant pile of Bitspower fittings.


----------



## Prof Aronnax

If someone is pimping out your rig pics on FB or any reputable site, you can submit a takedown notice and get the pic taken down. Not something to do lightly, but if you took the pic, you have the right to ask. There will be a DMCA link on the site somewhere.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This.
> !This! I always come away from this thread a bit jealouz of Bundy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Welcome back! Did you catch the pics of my new rig with dual Titans a few pages back???


----------



## Mandrake7062

Another not so nice sticker, and on the other side 1/3 of the logo does not stick.
Anyone pull these off, or does it make a mess.
That plastic EVG logo would look better.
Sorry about the cell pic.


----------



## NewHighScore

I took the alphacool stickers off my radiators as well. I had to get under there with the corner of a razor blade ever so carefully.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I took the alphacool stickers off my radiators as well. I had to get under there with the corner of a razor blade ever so carefully.


Where have *you* been?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Where have *you* been?


Oh here, there and everywhere else.









All that matters is I am back!







Glad someone remembers me hahaha


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Oh here, there and everywhere else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that matters is I am back!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad someone remembers me hahaha


who can forget that yellow awesome build? very inspiring!

does anyone has problem with bitspower full acrylic tube reservoir?
I've found out this morning that there is minor leakage , I think its coming from the bottom cap being not tight enough
however this is strange since I've it running for almost a month already


----------



## KaRLiToS

*NewHighScore* has the nicest and neatest Black and Yellow build I have seen in my life. (we remember you, I do)


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> who can forget that yellow awesome build? very inspiring!
> 
> does anyone has problem with bitspower full acrylic tube reservoir?
> I've found out this morning that there is minor leakage , I think its coming from the bottom cap being not tight enough
> however this is strange since I've it running for almost a month already


This is not what Im wanting to hear as I have just installed a full acrylic BP res :/

yet to complete my loop however


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Oh here, there and everywhere else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that matters is I am back!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad someone remembers me hahaha
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> who can forget that yellow awesome build? very inspiring!
Click to expand...

*This!*

...but still missing some final pics. Or did I just not get them in anyway?


----------



## NewHighScore

Thanks for all the love guys.







<3 <3 <3.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> *This!*
> 
> ...but still missing some final pics. Or did I just not get them in anyway?


Since I was afk for so long I wasn't in contact with dwood. The original backplates I ordered didn't fit but they are in the mail now! I will surely get some proper quality photos once the build is completely finished.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> does anyone has problem with bitspower full acrylic tube reservoir?
> I've found out this morning that there is minor leakage , I think its coming from the bottom cap being not tight enough
> however this is strange since I've it running for almost a month already


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> This is not what Im wanting to hear as I have just installed a full acrylic BP res :/
> 
> yet to complete my loop however


I don't have the full acrylic one but my POM and acrylic one doesn't leak at all. I made sure to really tighten the caps when I got it. I tightened them too much I can't get them back off lol.

Jeffiinslaw


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I don't have the full acrylic one but my POM and acrylic one doesn't leak at all. I made sure to really tighten the caps when I got it. I tightened them too much I can't get them back off lol.
> 
> Jeffiinslaw


Still at work, i've put some tissues on the leakage spot
see how it goes by the time I got home








damn i've not time to take it all off until mid month


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This.
> !This! I always come away from this thread a bit jealouz of Bundy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Any updates to the Empire's universal domination plans? aka your build(s)?


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Anyone pull these off, or does it make a mess.


it was OK to pull it off on mine - no mess, but slightly lighter color where the sticker was, quite hard to spot.
Alphacool should send those stickers separately or change the design - the current one does not work - it seems to be a common problem


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Still at work, i've put some tissues on the leakage spot
> see how it goes by the time I got home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> damn i've not time to take it all off until mid month


Funny that I found no leakage








this is weird


----------



## bundymania

Koolance - Magicool - XSPC


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! Where did you get the pcie ribbon?


good old ebay, with some wrap to cover it!


----------



## driftingforlife

Bridge is done, just waiting for the second card.

I still have the old pre-CSQ bridge, you guys think I should keep it (for benching older cards) or sell? would it be worth much now?.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Another not so nice sticker, and on the other side 1/3 of the logo does not stick.
> Anyone pull these off, or does it make a mess.
> That plastic EVG logo would look better.
> Sorry about the cell pic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Where did you get that fan shroud?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I took the alphacool stickers off my radiators as well. I had to get under there with the corner of a razor blade ever so carefully.


Welcome back. Like you're Avy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Bridge is done, just waiting for the second card.
> I still have the old pre-CSQ bridge, you guys think I should keep it (for benching older cards) or sell? would it be worth much now?.


Oh man, I like this look over the EK Bridge, looks a lot better imo. Thanks for the idea.


----------



## driftingforlife

Thanks







, they are Koolance 2-3 slot extenables btw.


----------



## Mandrake7062

@ mironccr345

Performan PC
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_172


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> it was OK to pull it off on mine - no mess, but slightly lighter color where the sticker was, quite hard to spot.
> Alphacool should send those stickers separately or change the design - the current one does not work - it seems to be a common problem


...had the same on mine too. It definitely *is* a common problem and yes, they should deliver that stickers seperately! Anybody here who knows a guy working at Alphacool?


----------



## Kimir

Send them a mail by using the contact form on their website, they answer fast.







(within 2 days for me)


----------



## Adrenalined

Ok so I finally finished my first loop. Just need to tidy up some cables and I'll be all set. Sorry for the poor cell phone quality picture.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Oh man, I like this look over the EK Bridge, looks a lot better imo. Thanks for the idea.


Yup. Never been a fan of bridges. Low profile sli fittings like those looks a lot better.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenalined*
> 
> Ok so I finally finished my first loop. Just need to tidy up some cables and I'll be all set. Sorry for the poor cell phone quality picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


...cough... 200rad in the front...cough...









nice rig, but you made it too good to stop now








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Send them a mail by using the contact form on their website, they answer fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (within 2 days for me)


I didn't mean it that serious but actually not a bad idea as they should know how the customers think about their products


----------



## Adrenalined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Adrenalined*
> 
> Ok so I finally finished my first loop. Just need to tidy up some cables and I'll be all set. Sorry for the poor cell phone quality picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...cough... 200rad in the front...cough...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice rig, but you made it too good to stop now
Click to expand...

Arrggghhh







I even debated that in my head, but I had sunk so much initial money into it I thought I don't need to rads for just the CPU. I know I'll need it when adding the GPU though. Realistically how much do you think I'd gain by adding that 200 with just the CPU? Now I'm already thinking about it...thanks!!


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenalined*
> 
> Arrggghhh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even debated that in my head, but I had sunk so much initial money into it I thought I don't need to rads for just the CPU. I know I'll need it when adding the GPU though. Realistically how much do you think I'd gain by adding that 200 with just the CPU? Now I'm already thinking about it...thanks!!


Only for the CPU... ...well, nearly nothing I guess, but than you have good reason to add the GPU to your loop









No forget that! I didn't say anything









This stuff is strongly addictive. I always try not wanting to upgrade my rig again but for some reason that doesn't work


----------



## khemist

Happy happy!.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Happy happy!.


I dig that color. It's probably the coolest tubing/coolant color I've seen.


----------



## Adrenalined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Adrenalined*
> 
> Arrggghhh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even debated that in my head, but I had sunk so much initial money into it I thought I don't need to rads for just the CPU. I know I'll need it when adding the GPU though. Realistically how much do you think I'd gain by adding that 200 with just the CPU? Now I'm already thinking about it...thanks!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only for the CPU... ...well, nearly nothing I guess, but than you have good reason to add the GPU to your loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No forget that! I didn't say anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This stuff is strongly addictive. I always try not wanting to upgrade my rig again but for some reason that doesn't work
Click to expand...

Tell me about it, I knew it was going to be an expensive venture, I never thought it would be cheap; however, I also didn't think I was going to spend as much as I did. Just a few quick questions, this being my first loop and all. Is having the drain tube at the bottom filled up an issue? I didn't buy a shutoff valve so the drain tube stays filled with a quick disconnect end. I'm not sure if the water sitting there is a problem or if it is circulating down there, if it's causing unneeded stress on the pump. Also, if the computer is set to go to sleep, it shouldn't be an issue just having the coolant sitting there and not circulating with the pump off right?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy happy!.


Scored a Titan eh? Nice.







Personally I do not like mismatched blocks, kinda bugs me...I would have either gotten an EK GPU block, or change the CPU block out to XSPC.


----------



## khemist

Never really thought about it tbh, i'm not that bothered about it i'm just glad to have a block on it.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist* ]
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1391741/%5B/IMG%5B/SPOILER]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1391741/[/IMG[/SPOILER[/URL]]] Happy happy!.[/QUOTE]
> 
> Looks great! what brand are those lower radiator shroud's?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Never really thought about it tbh, i'm not that bothered about it i'm just glad to have a block on it.


That's what's most important, whether or not you like it. I do gotta say, the XSPC block is very sleek and sexy compared to EK's offering IMO.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenalined*
> 
> Tell me about it, I knew it was going to be an expensive venture, I never thought it would be cheap; however, I also didn't think I was going to spend as much as I did. Just a few quick questions, this being my first loop and all. Is having the drain tube at the bottom filled up an issue? I didn't buy a shutoff valve so the drain tube stays filled with a quick disconnect end. I'm not sure if the water sitting there is a problem or if it is circulating down there, if it's causing unneeded stress on the pump. Also, if the computer is set to go to sleep, it shouldn't be an issue just having the coolant sitting there and not circulating with the pump off right?


This is/was also my first watercooled build but as I'm a plumber I can tell you that it is not stressing your pump in any significant way. The rest depends on the coolant/dye you use. Parts with less flow will get stained more quickly and coolants like Mayhems Aurora will "lose" their particles in that "dead zones". And I can tell you down in your drain line is nothing circulating at all.
But performance wise it is no issue.

Edit: Just had to take another look at your rig. I would either leave it like it is or change the tube into a ballvalve.
So leave it like that


----------



## Adrenalined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Adrenalined*
> 
> Tell me about it, I knew it was going to be an expensive venture, I never thought it would be cheap; however, I also didn't think I was going to spend as much as I did. Just a few quick questions, this being my first loop and all. Is having the drain tube at the bottom filled up an issue? I didn't buy a shutoff valve so the drain tube stays filled with a quick disconnect end. I'm not sure if the water sitting there is a problem or if it is circulating down there, if it's causing unneeded stress on the pump. Also, if the computer is set to go to sleep, it shouldn't be an issue just having the coolant sitting there and not circulating with the pump off right?
> 
> 
> 
> This is/was also my first watercooled build but as I'm a plumber I can tell you that it is not stressing your pump in any significant way. The rest depends on the coolant/dye you use. Parts with less flow will get stained more quickly and coolants like Mayhems Aurora will "lose" their particles in that "dead zones". And I can tell you down in your drain line is nothing circulating at all.
> But performance wise it is no issue.
> 
> Edit: Just had to take another look at your rig. I would either leave it like it is or change the tube into a ballvalve.
> So leave it like that
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply and all your help, I'll leave it.....for now


----------



## GhostDog99

new parts coming soon
going too chang the look a bit


----------



## sebkow

anyone try vinyl wrap moonson fittings?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Scored a Titan eh? Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I do not like mismatched blocks, kinda bugs me...I would have either gotten an EK GPU block, or change the CPU block out to XSPC.


Lol, I'm the same exact way...


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> new parts coming soon
> going too chang the look a bit






Nice. I like it. Maybe put a bitspower dress up chrome on your D5?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Looks great! what brand are those lower radiator shroud's?


Silverstone.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Nice. I like it. Maybe put a bitspower dress up chrome on your D5?


yes that is one of the many parts on the way from performance pc


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Nice. I like it. Maybe put a bitspower dress up chrome on your D5?


yes that is one of the many parts on the way from performance pc


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> new parts coming soon
> going too chang the look a bit
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Weirdly it kinda reminds me of my build.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Weirdly it kinda reminds me of my build.


thanks i just looked at your rig it is really nice
and mine will look even more like your becuase
im wanting on soome crystal link too come

but im still not sher witch coler i like more in the water red or purple but if i go with purple i will need to
sleeve all my cables and with work it will take me a long time but we will see


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This.
> !This! I always come away from this thread a bit jealouz of Bundy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, I'm accessing OCN using my Galaxy 3G LTE. Difficult to peruse pics in a fast paced threD like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> If u post them again I would appreciate it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build is currently on hold while I'm living in Kansas. I flew out here and wasn't trusting my high buck system with the airline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna b buildin my girl a i5 Sandy htpc system shortly tho. Yes on h2o.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome back! Did you catch the pics of my new rig with dual Titans a few pages back???
Click to expand...

Blsted Android.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> thanks i just looked at your rig it is really nice
> and mine will look even more like your becuase
> im wanting on soome crystal link too come
> 
> but im still not sher witch coler i like more in the water red or purple but if i go with purple i will need to
> sleeve all my cables and with work it will take me a long time but we will see
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would like to see a purple build as they are very rare









Would you mind telling me what tubing you have used?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> I would like to see a purple build as they are very rare
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you mind telling me what tubing you have used?


ya mate the tubing is Tygon E-1000 1/2 ID 3/4 OD

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34897


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This.
> !This! I always come away from this thread a bit jealouz of Bundy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, I'm accessing OCN using my Galaxy 3G LTE. Difficult to peruse pics in a fast paced threD like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> If u post them again I would appreciate it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build is currently on hold while I'm living in Kansas. I flew out here and wasn't trusting my high buck system with the airline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna b buildin my girl a i5 Sandy htpc system shortly tho. Yes on h2o.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome back! Did you catch the pics of my new rig with dual Titans a few pages back???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Blsted Android.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

This is why I rock a win7 phone,is just like desktop yes?
Is better than androidings.....

Except battery life is not as good...1.4ghz proc is eatings my battery,not like Soviet phone where battery eat you.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> ya mate the tubing is Tygon E-1000 1/2 ID 3/4 OD
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34897


Thank you


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'd love to get a Windows phone but Verizon has such a crappy selection...


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> thanks i just looked at your rig it is really nice
> and mine will look even more like your becuase
> im wanting on soome crystal link too come
> 
> but im still not sher witch coler i like more in the water red or purple but if i go with purple i will need to
> sleeve all my cables and with work it will take me a long time but we will see






I like the red but I say try white pastel. Should look nice.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

White pastel does look great...


----------



## morencyam

Very happy with my Android HTC One S. Not to mention the mobile OCN site is very nice. Much better than having to use TapaTalk.

On a more on topic note, I picked up an Alphacool ST30 120mm off eBay for $24 shipped last night. I know it won't make any difference in temps since I already have a Thermochill PA120.4, but I couldn't pass it up for the price.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> I like the red but I say try white pastel. Should look nice.


im building a mid range gaming rig now for my brother and using pastel white
so i dont want it too have the same color
maybe i will keep the red colant and change tyhe case from black to white


----------



## Thrasher1016

OK THEN.

I'm getting into a new CaseLabs S3 Mercury (already pre-ordered), and I want to do some form of water cooling.
I have the rest of my setup basically laid out in my FCPU wish list, so I'm good there...

I have a problem, however:
I have a Sapphire 7950 HD Flex OC Boost 3GB edition, and that's non-ref, so not only is there not a full cover block for it, the Swiftech full cover heatsink will most likely conflict as well.
Since the S3 is mITX and has the graphics card standing up directly against the side panel, for those that can do full blocks, there's a window option, but I chose the vented version, since I most likely can't get a good solution right away...
If I can get good airflow into that region, can I use a Swiftech or EK universal block and heatsinks, or what are good options?
Is the Arctic Cooling Universal Hybrid cooler something to even consider, or am I missing a better route?

FYI, as of right now, a different card is not a viable solution, as much as I'd like that to be the case.









Help?









Thanks - T


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> OK THEN.
> 
> I'm getting into a new CaseLabs S3 Mercury (already pre-ordered), and I want to do some form of water cooling.
> I have the rest of my setup basically laid out in my FCPU wish list, so I'm good there...
> 
> I have a problem, however:
> I have a Sapphire 7950 HD Flex OC Boost 3GB edition, and that's non-ref, so not only is there not a full cover block for it, the Swiftech full cover heatsink will most likely conflict as well.
> Since the S3 is mITX and has the graphics card standing up directly against the side panel, for those that can do full blocks, there's a window option, but I chose the vented version, since I most likely can't get a good solution right away...
> If I can get good airflow into that region, can I use a Swiftech or EK universal block and heatsinks, or what are good options?
> Is the Arctic Cooling Universal Hybrid cooler something to even consider, or am I missing a better route?
> 
> FYI, as of right now, a different card is not a viable solution, as much as I'd like that to be the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


Sell it and get a reference model!









What's stopping you getting a different card?

I'm thinking of replacing the radiator on my Khuler 620 with the XSPC one that BNEG is giving me (







), and I might throw in a bay res and redo the tubing whilst I'm there, although I'd need to have quick disconnects on the rad thanks to my case setup, the rad is directly opposite the motherboard, need to take it out/move the mount to access any internals. Also means all hot air is blown onto the socket which isn't ideal. Thinking of using this or this.

Why I have to use QDC's:










That fan filter/2x 120MM mount is removable, and needs to remain that way (if I ever want to change anything in my PC ever again)
Cheap way of getting back into watercooling a bit more properly as I can't afford to go all out at the moment, thoughts?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> new parts coming soon
> going too chang the look a bit
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Like this. Nice job bud.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> I like the red but I say try white pastel. Should look nice.
> 
> 
> 
> im building a mid range gaming rig now for my brother and using pastel white
> so i dont want it too have the same color
> maybe i will keep the red colant and change tyhe case from black to white
Click to expand...

Candylaaaaaand!









~Ceadder


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> anyone try vinyl wrap moonson fittings?


They aren't vinyl wrap, they are 1mm thick bands of actual carbon fiber.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Today as I intended to paint, but as the weather in Bcn not accompany much as I have been doing some things.
I spent an hour sanding and letting these little things and prepared for painting session (when the sun is shining). There are a couple of (L) left over some Ikea furniture, I think is a good plan B,
if it were not for convince me the Radiator Bracket AquaComputer.





Leak testing of the 2 remaining blocks, cleaning them and leaving them ready for installation only. Also I was testing the SLI connector in parallel.


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys just wanted to show you all alil update on where my Phantom 820i build stands. Going slow but it's getting there. Still working on the scissor door style side panels. And waiting on 2 new blocks for my 7970's so I can add the second one. But it's been a lot of fun working on this.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just wanted to show you all alil update on where my Phantom 820i build stands. Going slow but it's getting there. Still working on the scissor door style side panels. And waiting on 2 new blocks for my 7970's so I can add the second one. But it's been a lot of fun working on this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those the avexir core series white ram sticks? What do you think of them overall? Too bright? Been mulling over getting a set for a while. Also why didn't you go for the red ones given your build?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Like this. Nice job bud.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Candylaaaaaand!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks mates









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just wanted to show you all alil update on where my Phantom 820i build stands. Going slow but it's getting there. Still working on the scissor door style side panels. And waiting on 2 new blocks for my 7970's so I can add the second one. But it's been a lot of fun working on this.


Nice rig looking good


----------



## Michalius

Dear lord yes. The stars have aligned, and I have finally sourced an X900. I've been trying to get my hands on one of these for the better part of two years.



I'm thinking this is going to be perfect for the black/copper/z77-up7 build I've wanted to do...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Dear lord yes. The stars have aligned, and I have finally sourced an X900. I've been trying to get my hands on one of these for the better part of two years.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking this is going to be perfect for the black/copper/z77-up7 build I've wanted to do...


sweet case dude. I really like the footprint/layout of that case. Where did you find it?


----------



## Michalius

From someone local through the PDXLAN forums.


----------



## DonPablo83

Anyone here running 3+ 140mm rads low rpm? If so, how is the performance comparison with high rpm 3+ 120mm rad?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A little peek at what im working on right now........this one is going to be an OCN exclusive,coming soon!


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A little peek at what im working on right now........this one is going to be an OCN exclusive,coming soon!






A floppy disk!

Ha.

Looks interesting do you have a build log going for it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A little peek at what im working on right now........this one is going to be an OCN exclusive,coming soon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A floppy disk!
> 
> Ha.
> 
> Looks interesting do you have a build log going for it?
Click to expand...

Not yet.

You are looking at a 500x500x60 slab of delrin there,you will see where im going with this when i produce some renders.


----------



## k.3nny

My last 5 builds in 6 month's


----------



## kizwan

@k.3nny,

Those are just annoyingly beautiful!


----------



## khemist

Some acrylic in and LED.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Some acrylic in and LED.












Super rad!


----------



## Janac

My watercooled 7870 Tahiti LE with EK.- New Wave


----------



## PedroC1999

What are your VRM temps like?


----------



## Janac

51°C now in idle









Do i need heatsinks for VRMs?


----------



## tiborrr12

There are already heatsinks on the VRM. Ensure airflow and you're set! :up:


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> -snip-
> 
> Some acrylic in and LED.


Why did you decide to go with a 2x180 + 120 rad as opposed to 3x180?


----------



## khemist

Didn't want to mess with the drive cages.


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Didn't want to mess with the drive cages.


That makes sense. Well it looks great, and having that rad up there makes for better looking tubing runs anyhow.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> There are already heatsinks on the VRM. Ensure airflow and you're set! :up:


Oh, i meant the vram/ memory...

my bad


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just wanted to show you all alil update on where my Phantom 820i build stands. Going slow but it's getting there. Still working on the scissor door style side panels. And waiting on 2 new blocks for my 7970's so I can add the second one. But it's been a lot of fun working on this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those the avexir core series white ram sticks? What do you think of them overall? Too bright? Been mulling over getting a set for a while. Also why didn't you go for the red ones given your build?
Click to expand...

PhantomTaco yes those are Avexir Core Series 2000Mhz with White Dynamic LED's running at 2133Mhz. Not too bright at all. I really like them they run nice and smooth no issues overclocking the. I've pushed them up higher than the 2133 but decided to keep them there for folding. I chose the white instead of red because I wanted all white lighting in my build. I have all NZXT FZ's coming to replace all the fans in there now. Those are also going to be all white led. Also the tubing,fittings and coolant is being swapped out as we speak.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Like this. Nice job bud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Candylaaaaaand!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thanks mates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just wanted to show you all alil update on where my Phantom 820i build stands. Going slow but it's getting there. Still working on the scissor door style side panels. And waiting on 2 new blocks for my 7970's so I can add the second one. But it's been a lot of fun working on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice rig looking good
Click to expand...

Thank you very much *GhostDog99*.


----------



## Nikola-Tesla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Dem Tubes


Nice tidy-looking 90deg tubes, but how?
Please explain your sorcery.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Word, very neat looking bends in the tubing...


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikola-Tesla*
> 
> Nice tidy-looking 90deg tubes, but how?
> Please explain your sorcery.


he used acrylic tubing/SLI crystal link connectors and he bent it much in the way you would do with copper tubing except with a heat gun


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikola-Tesla*
> 
> Nice tidy-looking 90deg tubes, but how?
> Please explain your sorcery.


It's acrylic tube, 12mm OD 10mm ID, heated then bent. Bitspower C47 fittings for the connections


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

CSQ don't look too bad in your rig Mike!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> CSQ don't look too bad in your rig Mike!


Thanks, I like it.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The frosted finish gives the CSQ blocks a nice even glow with proper lighting. I've come around on the styling but I'm glad EK is offering a choice now instead of forcing one design down our throats.


----------



## Jinto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The frosted finish gives the CSQ blocks a nice even glow with proper lighting. I've come around on the styling but I'm glad EK is offering a choice now instead of forcing one design down our throats.


Wait, do the CSQ blocks come with pre-drilled LED holes are is that custom?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> Wait, do the CSQ blocks come with pre-drilled LED holes are is that custom?


The pump tops, sli bridges, ram blocks, bay res and cpu block all come with pre drilled holes for led's, some 5mm, some 3mm


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The frosted finish gives the CSQ blocks a nice even glow with proper lighting. I've come around on the styling but I'm glad EK is offering a choice now instead of forcing one design down our throats.


I saw the Harbringer team polished the frosted finish on the CSQ block
and they use UV green coolant, god its so sexy....

Guide


----------



## fakeblood




----------



## sivoloc

can i join this club?


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*


That's sexy


----------



## samwise67

So this is my build right now. just wanted to try and join you guys







. Just ordered Alphacool Nexxos 140mm rad for the front and a bitspower 400mL res to throw in the loop also and they should be in in a few days


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> CSQ don't look too bad in your rig Mike!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The frosted finish gives the CSQ blocks a nice even glow with proper lighting. I've come around on the styling but I'm glad EK is offering a choice now instead of forcing one design down our throats.


I actually liked the CSQ from the start
Never got why every one was hating
On it.
The only thing I didn't like is with the GPU
Water blocks is that the fitting holes
Are only at the bottom and you need to
Buy extra to make it dual


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwise67*
> 
> So this is my build right now. just wanted to try and join you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just ordered Alphacool Nexxos 140mm rad for the front and a bitspower 400mL res to throw in the loop also and they should be in in a few days
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What tubing are you using? looks so clear








...I'm not so happy with my 16/10 Masterkleer


----------



## minicooper1

aquasuite fantastic!!!!!


----------



## GridIroN

First proper build with a silver kill coil (silver ingot bought from a bank). Previous build used an EK EN block which still corroded to ****, and allowed algae to grow. Went to air for a long time on a 600T. Finally bought some CSQ blocks, soaked the ingot and rad in vinegar and back to my 800D and water cooling again!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwise67*
> 
> So this is my build right now. just wanted to try and join you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just ordered Alphacool Nexxos 140mm rad for the front and a bitspower 400mL res to throw in the loop also and they should be in in a few days
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. I'm curious though, why only two sticks of RAM in the board?


----------



## Janac

why is my card working only if there is stock cooler on GPU?

Even with no cooler on it wont boot.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> why is my card working only if there is stock cooler on GPU?
> 
> *Even with no cooler on it wont boot*.


You tried to power on your computer w/ no heatsink on the GPU?


----------



## PwndN00b

You may have to change the bios settings to ignore your cpu fan speed. On my rampage it's found in the monitor tab.


----------



## Janac

Its for GPU not the CPU.

Do anyone of you have a clue what it can be? I give up.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> why is my card working only if there is stock cooler on GPU?
> 
> Even with no cooler on it wont boot.


Do you have to have a fan plugged into the GPU for it to boot?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Dual Dual bay Res with a tapped front port.



And the mesh end of Arctic water...


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Do you have to have a fan plugged into the GPU for it to boot?


Also tried...


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## PwndN00b

Swapped out my "cute" 3/8 OD for some 1/2 OD. Here's the old...

Here's the new...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I like the bigger tubing myself, looks good PwndN00b!


----------



## justanoldman

New to this, so sorry for the newb question. I have noticed that there seems to be no hesitation to use 90 degree fittings by many people. I thought you would want to really minimize any angled fittings for performance reasons. Is that not correct, or does it depend on the individual setup?


----------



## GridIroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> New to this, so sorry for the newb question. I have noticed that there seems to be no hesitation to use 90 degree fittings by many people. I thought you would want to really minimize any angled fittings for performance reasons. Is that not correct, or does it depend on the individual setup?


It depends what pump you are using and how much equipment you are pumping water through...

The DDC (flat, square) pump is superior at pumping water through short loops with minimal occlusions. It's pressure is much stronger and allows it to "punch" for a short time.

Flow Rate: 8.7 L/min
Head Pressure: 7m

The D5 (cylindrical) pump is better at pumping through a lot of hardware and restrictions, as it's flow rate is much higher to compensate for weak pressure.

Flow Rate: 17.4L/min
Head Pressure: 5.1m

At the end of the day, unless you have triple cards or something with nothing with 90 degrees, it doesn't really matter what pump you use, or what fittings you use as long as you have good radiator cooling. My newest loop uses some 90's while my old one didn't and my temperatures are better than my previous loop.


----------



## morencyam

Martin, from martinsliquidlab, has done testing on the impact of angled fittings and shows that they really don't decrease flow that much unless you get into a large number of them
Quote:


> As the chart shows, it would take almost 30 each 90 degree elbows to add up to 1 degree in CPU temp rise.


Source


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GridIroN*
> 
> It depends what pump you are using and how much equipment you are pumping water through...
> 
> The DDC (flat, square) pump is superior at pumping water through short loops with minimal occlusions. It's pressure is much stronger and allows it to "punch" for a short time.
> 
> The D5 (cylindrical) pump is better at pumping through a lot of hardware and restrictions, as it's flow rate is much higher to compensate for weak pressure.


You got that backwards. DDC is what you'd want for higher restriction loops as it deals w/ drops in pressure better. It will also run a lot cooler in restrictive loops.

D5 is a great pump for loops w/ moderate restriction.


----------



## GridIroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You got that backwards. DDC is what you'd want for higher restriction loops as it deals w/ drops in pressure better. It will also run a lot cooler in restrictive loops.
> 
> D5 is a great pump for loops w/ moderate restriction.


Interesting. I figured the fact that it's flow rate is so much higher would keep the water moving through restriction. I wouldn't think head pressure would mean much if it's flow rate was low.


----------



## pc-illiterate

flow rate means nothing without pressure. it wouldnt matter if a pump flowed 2,000 gph if it only pushes 1 foot of head pressure. yes both are exaggerated but it makes a point.


----------



## phillyd

I can't seem to find the FPI of the Alphacool NexXxos ST30 radiators.


----------



## MiiX

I belive they are all 10 FPI

AP-29 + PWM mod=Awsome, works great on my old H50








Does anyone know if theese fans at the lowest sound as the AP-15s at max?


----------



## pc-illiterate

the xt45 is 11.4fpi or so, the ut60 is 9.6fpi, the monsta is 10fpi. im thinking i read somewhere that the st30 was 14.?fpi and please dont blame me if something is wrong. its my research im posting...


----------



## Rozyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Swapped out my "cute" 3/8 OD for some 1/2 OD. Here's the old...
> 
> Here's the new...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you get that from DigitalStorm?


----------



## phillyd

Thanks for the input! I'm gonna put a Monsta 240 in push/pull with Corsair Air SP Quiet editions and then a 360 up top. For 3 7950's OC'ed, and a delidded 3770k @5GHz, would you all recommend the monsta plus a ST30, XT45 or UT60 for the minimum?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks for the input! I'm gonna put a Monsta 240 in push/pull with Corsair Air SP Quiet editions and then a 360 up top. For 3 7950's OC'ed, and a delidded 3770k @5GHz, would you all recommend the monsta plus a ST30, XT45 or UT60 for the minimum?


I'm using a 30MM thick 360MM radiator + a 30MM thick 240MM radiator to cool two overclocked 7970's plus an i7 3820 at 4.2GHz. Temps are pretty great!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rozyn*
> 
> Did you get that from DigitalStorm?


Built it myself, flattered you think so though.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Swapped out my "cute" 3/8 OD for some 1/2 OD. Here's the old...
> 
> Here's the new...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ODD FTW









really like this, and the bigger tubing do look much better in the 800D. the only thing i didn't fully understand is why did you choose the red topped Bitspower CPU and RAM blocks and no just the clear ones since you have a (gorgeous) red coolant?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks for the input! I'm gonna put a Monsta 240 in push/pull with Corsair Air SP Quiet editions and then a 360 up top. For 3 7950's OC'ed, and a delidded 3770k @5GHz, would you all recommend the monsta plus a ST30, XT45 or UT60 for the minimum?


i think that if you have the space the XT45 is the best solution since it has almost identical performance to the UT60 and takes less space while at it. since it has a slightly higher FPI and being thinner the SP120 push/pull is (IMO) more effective on it. it only lacks the bleed plug if you really care for it.


----------



## DrewWyber

I have two UT60 360's and they are awesome. Really well built, except the sticker will peel off after some time..


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'm using a 30MM thick 360MM radiator + a 30MM thick 240MM radiator to cool two overclocked 7970's plus an i7 3820 at 4.2GHz. Temps are pretty great!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Which fans at what voltage?
I run a 420, a 240 and a 120 rad, all 30mm and Bitfenix spectre pro fans at 5V. It's enough for gaming but for stress testing I have to turn the fans higher. (i5 3570k @ 4,4 GHz and 1 gtx680 non OC)

Edit:
Never asked before...



...may I join the club?


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks for the input! I'm gonna put a Monsta 240 in push/pull with Corsair Air SP Quiet editions and then a 360 up top. For 3 7950's OC'ed, and a delidded 3770k @5GHz, would you all recommend the monsta plus a ST30, XT45 or UT60 for the minimum?


If Monsta's can go in . then Monsta's it shall be. But UT60's give great options and performance.


----------



## samwise67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nice. I'm curious though, why only two sticks of RAM in the board?


Im only using two sticks of ram cuz i had my quad channel kit fail and this is what i had laying around....i will be buying some more soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> What tubing are you using? looks so clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I'm not so happy with my 16/10 Masterkleer


The tubing im using is some 1/2in ID X 3/4in OD that i picked up at home depot. waiting for tax return to redo the fitting and get some primochill advanced LRT to put in. redid my loop and i got 10ft of this stuff for $6. its super stiff tho


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwise67*
> 
> The tubing im using is some 1/2in ID X 3/4in OD that i picked up at home depot. waiting for tax return to redo the fitting and *get some primochill advanced LRT* to put in. redid my loop and i got 10ft of this stuff for $6. its super stiff tho


...that's what I'm also thinking about but I'm not quite sure if that tubing is good and if it is compatible with my primochill dye (lol, it should actually!^^) or if it's leeching out plasticizer. Pretty hard to find some information...


----------



## samwise67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> ...that's what I'm also thinking about but I'm not quite sure if that tubing is good and if it is compatible with my primochill dye (lol, it should actually!^^) or if it's leeching out plasticizer. Pretty hard to find some information...


yea...i bought it cuz i have about a month or so to wait and im using mayhem blue dye in mine....only a very little but still some in there. testing this home depot tubing to see how it stacks up. i used to have tygon 3603 tubing but it got really cloudy after a few months.


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Which fans at what voltage?
> I run a 420, a 240 and a 120 rad, all 30mm and Bitfenix spectre pro fans at 5V. It's enough for gaming but for stress testing I have to turn the fans higher. (i5 3570k @ 4,4 GHz and 1 gtx680 non OC)


You have 800mm total rad space for cpu and 1 gpu and it's still not cool enough?


----------



## samwise67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'm using a 30MM thick 360MM radiator + a 30MM thick 240MM radiator to cool two overclocked 7970's plus an i7 3820 at 4.2GHz. Temps are pretty great!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I have a 360 Black Ice radiator up top and a 240 slim on the bottom with corsair performance fans. running two GTX 580's overclocked to 900MhZ and an i7-3820 on a 4.6 OC with temps at about 69 degrees on the cards and 55-60 degrees on CPU


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Which fans at what voltage?
> I run a 420, a 240 and a 120 rad, all 30mm and Bitfenix spectre pro fans at 5V. It's enough for gaming but for stress testing I have to turn the fans higher. (i5 3570k @ 4,4 GHz and 1 gtx680 non OC)


I'm using the Swiftech Helix fans at 100% during different stress tests and stuff and temps stay around the 40s-50s.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## hammadj

My first WC build!


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> My first WC build!


very nice and clean... but you seem to be missing a GPU


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> very nice and clean... but you seem to be missing a GPU


Long story, stay tuned here to find out: http://www.overclock.net/t/1379895/buildlog-project-no-gpu-my-first-wc-loop#post_19701359


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Hey, anybody here know what metal XSPC compression fittings are made out of? I hope it's brass and not plated aluminum or something because i chipped a bit of the fitting and I want to avoid galvanic corrosion.


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> Hey, anybody here know what metal XSPC compression fittings are made out of? I hope it's brass and not plated aluminum or something because i chipped a bit of the fitting and I want to avoid galvanic corrosion.


They sure dont feel like aluminum. They have quite a bit of heft.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> They sure dont feel like aluminum. They have quite a bit of heft.


True, they do feel way heftier than aluminum usually does, but still, does that mean it's steel, brass, or nickel?


----------



## NomNomNom

Does anyone know if the Arc Mini case has removable hard drive cages on the bottom and top? Or do i have to de-rivet the bottom hard drive cage?


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> True, they do feel way heftier than aluminum usually does, but still, does that mean it's steel, brass, or nickel?


I'd guess brass but I'm not 100% sure.


----------



## dangerdan87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> True, they do feel way heftier than aluminum usually does, but still, does that mean it's steel, brass, or nickel?


Maybe stainless?


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> Hey, anybody here know what metal XSPC compression fittings are made out of? I hope it's brass and not plated aluminum or something because i chipped a bit of the fitting and I want to avoid galvanic corrosion.


According to this review ist's made of brass http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-fittings-tubing-radstand-roundup/2/


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> If Monsta's can go in . then Monsta's it shall be. But UT60's give great options and performance.


Can't fit the Monsta 360 up top, so I need to know what is the least I can get away with on my setup. Tight on money.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dangerdan87*
> 
> Maybe stainless?


I seriously doubt they'd make fittings out of stainless. Those things would be a fair bit more money than just brass, and they would cause the extra headache of being essentially ruined when chipped.


----------



## golfergolfer

Hello everyone! I have always loved Mayhems Dyes and now I am going to be getting the chance to use some! I had originally planned on buying some Dark Blue Dye for my loop but then I also found out about Ocean Blue. Does anyone here have any pictures on what the difference is? I havent been able to find a good one that really shows it. But in my search I came across the beloved Mayhems Pastel (Blue Berry). I plan on using this rig for about 4 years and on the first page it has been tested for 3 which is pretty good but I find the color a little to bright for my liking and was wondering if I added either Dark Blue or Ocean Blue would it make a difference?

To sum it all up:

Dark Blue Dye VERSUS Ocean Blue Dye?

Dark Blue Dye PLUS Blue Berry Pastel = ?

Ocean Blue Dye PLUS Blue Berry Pastel = ?


----------



## golfergolfer

Double Post


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dangerdan87*
> 
> Maybe stainless?
> 
> 
> 
> I seriously doubt they'd make fittings out of stainless. Those things would be a fair bit more money than just brass, and they would cause the extra headache of being essentially ruined when chipped.
Click to expand...

Truth!









~Ceadder


----------



## Fickle Pickle

I emailed XSPC and they confirmed that it is made of brass. Man they are fast with their support, took 3-4 hours for a reply.


----------



## TwentyCent

Yeah I asked about a radiator a while ago, and also got a very fast response.








for customer support!


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> ODD FTW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really like this, and the bigger tubing do look much better in the 800D. the only thing i didn't fully understand is why did you choose the red topped Bitspower CPU and RAM blocks and no just the clear ones since you have a (gorgeous) red coolant?


I hummed and hawed about it and chose them to keep with the red theme. In hind sight, I should have went clear so I could change the color scheme if I wanted to without having to replace so many parts.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Which fans at what voltage?
> I run a 420, a 240 and a 120 rad, all 30mm and Bitfenix spectre pro fans at *5V*. It's enough for gaming but for stress testing I have to turn the fans higher. (i5 3570k @ 4,4 GHz and 1 gtx680 non OC)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> You have 800mm total rad space for cpu and 1 gpu and it's still not cool enough?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'm using the Swiftech Helix fans at *100%* during different stress tests and stuff and temps stay around the 40s-50s.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

This I was expecting. Mine on *5V*, Jeffinslaws on *100%*.
Of course I have enough rad space, but only if I run the fans on 100% no temp is getting over 61°C under full load.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> I emailed XSPC and they confirmed that it is made of brass. Man they are fast with their support, took 3-4 hours for a reply.


XSPC is ridiculously helpful and good at answering emails. I kind of wish I could buy more of their stuff. If they had a single bay 355 res and if I could source their rotary fittings, my loop would be 100% XSPC except tubing, titan blocks, and pump.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> XSPC is ridiculously helpful and good at answering emails. I kind of wish I could buy more of their stuff. If they had a single bay 355 res and if I could source their rotary fittings, my loop would be 100% XSPC except tubing, titan blocks, and pump.


Yeah they are pretty good at answering emails. I also wish they made angled compression fittings, would match the fittings that came with their kit. My entire loop is XSPC because I built it on top of their kit...just added a 7970 Razor block and an extra ex240 rad.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Can't fit the Monsta 360 up top, so I need to know what is the least I can get away with on my setup. Tight on money.


From what i understand the next best one is the UT60. Sigh if only i could fit it inside my case. I Went for XT45 and fans in push setup only. If you Both fit and have the cash for UT60 go for it. It Performs Very well at all Fan Speeds which makes it stand out so much more compared to the rest.

Here are results at different fan settings:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> XSPC is ridiculously helpful and good at answering emails. I kind of wish I could buy more of their stuff. If they had a single bay 355 res and if I could source their rotary fittings, my loop would be 100% XSPC except tubing, titan blocks, and pump.


Maybe you should switch that Titan block and round everything out....the XSPC version is very smexy.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Anyone had any experience with this deal?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18384/ex-res-475/Alphacool_Repack_Dual_525_Acrylic_Reservoir_-_Clear_-_Dual_D5_MCP655_w_2_x_Alphacool_VPP_Installed_50025.html?id=BgoxKSIc&mv_pc=165

Yay? Nay?

Thanks - T


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Anyone had any experience with this deal?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18384/ex-res-475/Alphacool_Repack_Dual_525_Acrylic_Reservoir_-_Clear_-_Dual_D5_MCP655_w_2_x_Alphacool_VPP_Installed_50025.html?id=BgoxKSIc&mv_pc=165
> 
> Yay? Nay?
> 
> Thanks - T


I'd say go with the koolance one. I have had mine 2 years no problems. Works great. Very well built.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Anyone had any experience with this deal?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18384/ex-res-475/Alphacool_Repack_Dual_525_Acrylic_Reservoir_-_Clear_-_Dual_D5_MCP655_w_2_x_Alphacool_VPP_Installed_50025.html?id=BgoxKSIc&mv_pc=165
> 
> Yay? Nay?
> 
> Thanks - T


Wont go wrong with XSPC one as well









but the koolance look so beastly


----------



## Thrasher1016

It may be a moot point since my setup might make it impossible to even install something like this...
So it might not even matter!
I'm thinking maybe a pair of Swiftech MCP655 PWMs and a Bitspower Dual D5 in the UV green...
Since I have to have the flexbay in my (not yet arrived) S3 for a radiator, the Repack won't work.

Soon as I know what I think I want, I'll post a list, and ya'll can redline it to death.









Thanks -


----------



## PCModderMike

+1 for the XSPC version.....some have said the Koolance res is a PIA to bleed.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> +1 for the XSPC version.....some have said the Koolance res is a PIA to bleed.


I can chyme in on this. Right now I have a Koolance RP-401x2 with an MCP35x in it.

I can't make it stop recycling bubbles. It's been shooting bubbles straight through for an entire week now.


----------



## Dzuks

I'm thinking about adding a 240 rad under the drive cages of my HAF X. I currently have not so thick 360 and 140 rads, and was wondering if the 240 addition might help better my temps. Under stress my GPUs don't go pass 50C, but I'd love to have them max out at 45 instead... All inputs are welcomed.
Current setup below.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I'm thinking about adding a 240 rad under the drive cages of my HAF X. I currently have not so thick 360 and 140 rads, and was wondering if the 240 addition might help better my temps. Under stress my GPUs don't go pass 50C, but I'd love to have them max out at 45 instead... All inputs are welcomed.
> Current setup below.


What rad is the 140 your using and what thickness? I too was thinking of a 240 below but how ?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Candylaaaaaand!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ceadder good to have you back man how have you been


----------



## mr one

how good is phobya balancer 150? or better to take something like Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 10 copper edition?


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> how good is phobya balancer 150? or better to take something like Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 10 copper edition?


I have been using the 150 nickel balancer for around 4 months. It's has been great so far, really like the multiple ports, and you can't beat the price!


Thanks for the excuse to post more pictures of my rig!


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I'm thinking about adding a 240 rad under the drive cages of my HAF X. I currently have not so thick 360 and 140 rads, and was wondering if the 240 addition might help better my temps. Under stress my GPUs don't go pass 50C, but I'd love to have them max out at 45 instead... All inputs are welcomed.
> Current setup below.


same setup, same cards, but my temps never go over 43C. Koolance full cover blocks, XSPC rads (140, 360). Maybe the 250mm res helps that much, dunno.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> I have been using the 150 nickel balancer for around 4 months. It's has been great so far, really like the multiple ports, and you can't beat the price!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the excuse to post more pictures of my rig!


Your rig looks awesome







and thanks







but i found that they almost at the same price point


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> What rad is the 140 your using and what thickness? I too was thinking of a 240 below but how ?


The 140 rad is a Magicool 140 Slim, and it's 30 thick. To be able to fit in the 240 rad at the bottom, I'd need to cut off part of the HDD cage.
Preferably the bottom 2 or 3 depending on how thick a rad I decide to go for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> same setup, same cards, but my temps never go over 43C. Koolance full cover blocks, XSPC rads (140, 360). Maybe the 250mm res helps that much, dunno.


Nice temps! I wonder what the contributing factors to your temps are, if we have almost identical setups. Your GPU blocks perhaps?!
My GPU temps under load however stay below 45, it's when I have them both running at 99% that the 2nd card hits 49.
I guess it's time for some research!


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> I have been using the 150 nickel balancer for around 4 months. It's has been great so far, really like the multiple ports, and you can't beat the price!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the excuse to post more pictures of my rig!


What case is that?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> What case is that?


He built it from scratch, so its 'His case'


----------



## Ash2097

First go at water cooling:


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> What case is that?


It is my first attempt at a scratch build. Here is the build log, check it out if you like.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Caustic soda.....anodizing didnt stand a chance.

Now the question is do i paint it white or copper........


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Caustic soda.....anodizing didnt stand a chance.
> 
> Now the question is do i paint it white or copper........


cooper


----------



## driftingforlife

You could do white, then have the FC7970 bit traced in copper?


----------



## PCModderMike

White


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> cooper


All copper would be overkill, I like the trace idea with white


----------



## kj1060

This may be a bit of a noob question, but I am thinking of redoing my loop (currently one loop for CPU and one for GPU). My idea is: Helix Res -> D5 -> XSPC RES/D5 -> CPU -> 360 -> 3x Komodos (currently only 1) -> 480 -> 240 -> Helix res. Will I run into any trouble with the XSPC bay reservoir? Thank you for the help.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> cooper






Copper and white!!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> You could do white, then have the FC7970 bit traced in copper?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> White


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> This may be a bit of a noob question, but I am thinking of redoing my loop (currently one loop for CPU and one for GPU). My idea is: Helix Res -> D5 -> XSPC RES/D5 -> CPU -> 360 -> 3x Komodos (currently only 1) -> 480 -> 240 -> Helix res. Will I run into any trouble with the XSPC bay reservoir? Thank you for the help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> cooper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper and white!!!!
Click to expand...

Seems pretty unanimous....I think it would of looked nice copper....if it was a proper sheet of it rather than spray.

The peoples haz spoken!


----------



## morencyam

I agree with the peoples. White with copper accents would look sick


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Caustic soda.....anodizing didnt stand a chance.
> 
> Now the question is do i paint it white or copper........


Hey B-could you please explain the process of stripping the paint off the BP -im presuming that it was black initially.

thanks in advance


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Make a solution of strong caustic soda then let it soak,it will just fall off.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> Hey, anybody here know what metal XSPC compression fittings are made out of? I hope it's brass and not plated aluminum or something because i chipped a bit of the fitting and I want to avoid galvanic corrosion.


Best way to find out, use a magnet XD

If is aluminum it wouldn't stick to it..


----------



## TwentyCent

^^Actually, brass is also non-ferrous...


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> ^^Actually, brass is also non-ferrous...


oh yeah ops lol


----------



## pc-illiterate

hey dzuks, are you really running 4 exhaust fans and only 1 intake? or did you not do a window mod?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Whats the performance difference between copper and nickel plated cpu blocks, whats the pros/cons of each?


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Whats the performance difference between copper and nickel plated cpu blocks, whats the pros/cons of each?


thermal difference is almost nothing, It's done mostly for looks and it doesn't corrode/oxidise like copper so you don't need to clean it as much, the only issue is that there are good platers and bad platers if the plating is not done well it will cause a world of pain and headaches as it flakes off but if it is good it's fantastic

copper blocks you don't need to worry about issues like that as copper is copper but you need to clean them every few months as they go black with oxidation


----------



## Thrasher1016

Ok all, THIS is my "HOLY MOLY" I-need-everything-to-get-going shoping cart.
The only thing not included is the GPU block, because I haven't picked one...

PrimoChill Base Intensified High Purity Deionized Water - 1 Gallon
IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal PC Coolant Additive - 15 mL
IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip
FrozenCPU 12V Ultra-Flex 30 LED Light Strip - Green
Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top Extreme - Acrylic / UV Green Version
Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE 12v Water Pump Module,PWM Enabled = 2 EA
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Dual 120mm Radiator
XSPC 240mm Radiator Gasket
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator
Bitspower UV Reactive Green O-Ring (10 Pack)
Bitspower Summit EF CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Intel LGA Series - White Acetal
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 7/16"ID x 5/8" OD - Elegant White
Bitspower G 1/4" Thread 45 Degree Rotary 1/2" Barb Fitting = 2 EA
Bitspower Matte Black G1/4" Barb Fitting - 1/2" ID X4
Bitspower Matte Black G1/4" Rotary Barb Fitting - 1/2" ID X4
Bitspower G1/4" Mini Valve - Matte Black
Bitspower G1/4" Female / Female Pass-Through Fitting - (Fillport) - Matte Black
Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4
Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread
Steel Spring Hose Clamp for 5/8" OD Tubing - Black = 2 EA
Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Kit - Matte Black = 2 EA
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 Inline Reservoir - Clear

Subtotal: $972.81

Impressions?

I'm cooling one 3770K and one 7950 HD, and yes, I like overkill.

Thanks - T


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> thermal difference is almost nothing, It's done mostly for looks and it doesn't corrode/oxidise like copper so you don't need to clean it as much, the only issue is that there are good platers and bad platers if the plating is not done well it will cause a world of pain and headaches as it flakes off but if it is good it's fantastic
> 
> copper blocks you don't need to worry about issues like that as copper is copper but you need to clean them every few months as they go black with oxidation


Any damage to the copper if you never clean as frequently? if I were going copper it wouldn't be seethrew and won't notice a black oxidation threw the block


----------



## Stickeelion

that looks good and very thorough what you have there Thrasher, you don't really need the O-ring pack, Bitspower already come with them and you don't really see them anyway

good luck with that loop


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any damage to the copper if you never clean as frequently as listed, as if I were going copper it wouldn't be seethrew and won't notice a black oxidation look..


yes if you get an acrylic block you will want to clean the block regularly so you don't see the black oxidation. otherwise you should generally clean copper blocks every 6-9 months which is when you should replace the coolant anyway. you should also give it a clean if you notice that your temps are getting worse (from build-up on the block). It's also good to check for any corrosion or other issues too.

It won't really cause any permanent damage to the block by not cleaning it often but the longer you leave it the harder it will be to clean and the worse your temps will get. you should not get any corrosion unless you're putting the wrong stuff in your loop, If you ever get corrosion you've done something wrong.


----------



## KaRLiToS

It's really important not to touch the copper blocks with bare hands while cleaning them. Always wear chemical gloves not to leave finger marks on it. It will badly stain the block.

Check this recent thread where I had to clean one. I never touch it with my skin.









*Complete copper block "Renewal" ✮✮✮✮✮*


----------



## nleksan

Some pics of my rig!


----------



## TwentyCent

Lookin good! I would remove those green dots on the fans ASAP though


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Some pics of my rig!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I never get tired of seeing a good loop inside a Switch 810, great work.


----------



## nleksan

Thanks!

(and the green dots, just like the little res bracket, will go eventually; but as I am still in the state of "constantly changing things", they both serve a purpose







)

EDIT: Oh, and the SATA cables are intentionally different-colored, it helps me when I'm mucking about with my hard drives/SSD's to differentiate them, but I will be sleeving the cables and just attaching some little zip-tie-esque labels to the drive-sides


----------



## morencyam

Hey nleskan, that is a beautiful loop you built yourself there. One question though. What size extender did you use to get the 45* fitting to clear the fan on the top radiator?


----------



## XgenZeepee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Some pics of my rig!


A clean finish.. now post a photo when its running let me see how good will it be


----------



## golfergolfer

Hi again I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a new gpu block and was wondering one thing.

For the GTX 670 EK block can anyone tell me how wide the entire block is? What I mean by this is from PCB (mobo side) to the bridge on the block. If ANYONE can answer this it will make someones life alot smoother


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hi again I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a new gpu block and was wondering one thing.
> 
> For the GTX 670 EK block can anyone tell me how wide the entire block is? What I mean by this is from PCB (mobo side) to the bridge on the block. If ANYONE can answer this it will make someones life alot smoother


----------



## golfergolfer

It's so beautiful makes me wanna cry but do you have the exact length from like the bottom side pcb where the card is resting on straight to the fc bridge? This is what I need to know because I plan on using this set up with two 90 degrees coming out those ports and I don't know if I have enough room between the card and side panel for my fittings if I could get a measurement like that I will be so happy


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hw much clearance do you need from the top of the card?

I will take the measure on my 7970 that has the same block and same link.

Can you just measure the difference between the top of the bracket and top of the card, its probably below 8mm


----------



## golfergolfer

Actually yes the measurement from the pci bracket on the left to the top of the link would do just fine that should be accurate enough for me =)


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Actually yes the measurement from the pci bracket on the left to the top of the link would do just fine that should be accurate enough for me =)


Its between 1/2" (4/8") to 5/8".

I had to take two rules to take the measurement.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Just took some more measurements for you.

*All width measures*

GTX 670 = PCB : 4,376 inches
HD 7970 = PCB : 4,376 inches

My block from link to other end of the block is 4" 3/16 = *4,1875 inches*

Will it fit in your Compact Splash ???


----------



## sakerfalcon

Anyone got experience with cutting the top of the 800D? Should I leave strips in the middle for structural integrity? Or do most people just cut a big fat rectangle in the middle of the 800D and call it a day? Anyone have experience with Koolance shroud + UT60 in particular?



Most of the loot came in today and I've done some final measurements, so tomorrow will be taping and cutting. This drawing was a couple weeks in the making.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Anyone got experience with cutting the top of the 800D? Should I leave strips in the middle for structural integrity? Or do most people just cut a big fat rectangle in the middle of the 800D and call it a day? Anyone have experience with Koolance shroud + UT60 in particular?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the loot came in today and I've done some final measurements, so tomorrow will be taping and cutting. This drawing was a couple weeks in the making.


http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation


----------



## R4V3N

Quick phone pic of the system I've been putting together recently, built to play DOS, Win95, Win98 games and, well, because I could.
I tried to keep it as authentic as possible, but put a modern pump in it for peace of mind. I still have to tidy it up a bit, but it's nearly there.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation


Did you leave the three fan mounts intact and just cut the hole for the fourth?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Did you leave the three fan mounts intact and just cut the hole for the fourth?


Yes, left the stock 360mm mounting hole and just cut a square for the 4th fan. the hole allowed me to route the cables from the top fans.


----------



## kcuestag

Look at all the goodies that arrived!











- Hardware Labs Black Ice SR1 420mm
- 2x Watercool Heatkiller GPU-X³ 79X0 Ni-Bl
- XSPC EX120
- 3x Noctua NF-A14 FLX

I'll be assembling everything tomorrow once the 2nd HD7970 arrives.


----------



## PCModderMike

Always fun getting parts delivered.








Didn't you have two 680's? What made you switch to 7970's?


----------



## TommyMoore




----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Always fun getting parts delivered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you have two 680's? What made you switch to 7970's?


really? I find it's a logistical and financial nightmare, Also I never seem to release my breath from the moment that the parts are shipped until all the components have arrived and been tested and work

(I must have really big lungs







)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Always fun getting parts delivered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you have two 680's? What made you switch to 7970's?


The GTX680's are nice but their drivers are not lately, so I decided to give AMD a try, and it does make a good difference in Battlefield 3, mainly because of the limited 256 BUS on the Kepler cards.

Just waiting for that 2nd card to arrive so I can build everything, we'll see if I can actually fit the 120mm there, still not 100% sure.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Anyone got experience with cutting the top of the 800D? Should I leave strips in the middle for structural integrity? Or do most people just cut a big fat rectangle in the middle of the 800D and call it a day? Anyone have experience with Koolance shroud + UT60 in particular?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the loot came in today and I've done some final measurements, so tomorrow will be taping and cutting. This drawing was a couple weeks in the making.


When I cut the 480 hole in my old 700D I just cut a big rectangle and called it a day. Didn't have any structural issues like bending or flexing. Especially with the Koolance shroud, I think you'll be okay too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TommyMoore*


Very nice build Tommy. Do I sense another rad being added to the front soon?


----------



## MiiX

PWM fans for a radiator... What would you guys reccomend? The Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-P looks like a good competitor to me.
I want to be able to run the fan at low speeds 1000RPM or lower and be able to push them to 1800RPM or higher.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> PWM fans for a radiator... What would you guys reccomend? The Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-P looks like a good competitor to me.
> I want to be able to run the fan at low speeds 1000RPM or lower and be able to push them to 1800RPM or higher.


gentle typhoon has some med speed pwm fans if I remember correctly. May be a bit cheaper than the noise blockers as well.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> PWM fans for a radiator... What would you guys reccomend? The Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-P looks like a good competitor to me.
> I want to be able to run the fan at low speeds 1000RPM or lower and be able to push them to 1800RPM or higher.


That's what I'm using, they are @ ~800 on idle and goes up when needed which keep my whole setup cool and silent.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Its between 1/2" (4/8") to 5/8".
> 
> I had to take two rules to take the measurement.


Thanks for taking the time to do this! From what I recall there is 39mm from pci bracket to side panel 5/8" is about 15.8mm that leaves me about 23mm left if I recall my fittings are 28mm tall... So I might be about 5mm off but once I get home I plan on checking again and confirming


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> gentle typhoon has some med speed pwm fans if I remember correctly. May be a bit cheaper than the noise blockers as well.


They kind of got some, the high RPM fans have a RPM channel that isnt wired, but they are 3k RPM and thats way to much(Using one now on my H50 with PWM)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That's what I'm using, they are @ ~800 on idle and goes up when needed which keep my whole setup cool and silent.


Nice







My idea was to put the pump im going to use and the fans all on the same channel to keep everything as silent as possible.

Still open for suggestions for other fans!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to do this! From what I recall there is 39mm from pci bracket to side panel 5/8" is about 15.8mm that leaves me about 23mm left if I recall my fittings are 28mm tall... So I might be about 5mm off but once I get home I plan on checking again and confirming


You can always use a Single link bridge for your card. With this bridge, it will save you a lot of questionning and hassle.









**** NEW *** EK-FC Bridge SINGLE - Acetal*

*9,99$*


----------



## PCModderMike

^ That's what I use. Kind of silly EK didn't include it with the blocks IMO....but, it's cheap and it makes a loop cleaner using it.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> ^ That's what I use. Kind of silly EK didn't include it with the blocks IMO....but, it's cheap and it makes a loop cleaner using it.


Any way to squeeze a few extra bucks out of their customers.


----------



## KaRLiToS

EK are good with this. Especially their blocks, they put like half the amount of copper in their blocks and charge the same price or more.

*Check this out*
I cleaned a copper block two years ago (EK FC 5870)




*And yesterday I cleaned a EK FC 7970 block (CSQ)*
_Look how thin they are._




Their copper used to be massive and thick and now they are anorexic but for more expensive.








They are still PRETTY GOOD blocks, its just the price.









_EK 7970 : http://www.overclock.net/t/1380323/complete-copper-block-renewal/0_30_
_EK 5870 : http://www.overclock.net/t/1076619/how-to-remove-stain-from-copper-blocks/0_30_


----------



## Shaitan

Finished my third loop, but never posted any pics of the previous two I don't believe. Anyway, I'll just leave these here.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> EK are good with this. Especially their blocks, they put like half the amount of copper in their blocks and charge the same price or more.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Check this out*
> I cleaned a copper block two years ago (EK FC 5870)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And yesterday I cleaned a EK FC 7970 block (CSQ)*
> _Look how thin they are._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Their copper used to be massive and thick and now they are anorexic but for more expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are still PRETTY GOOD blocks, its just the price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _EK 7970 : http://www.overclock.net/t/1380323/complete-copper-block-renewal/0_30_
> _EK 5870 : http://www.overclock.net/t/1076619/how-to-remove-stain-from-copper-blocks/0_30_


I still don't know why they change from that block design(EK FC5870). That's how my GTX470 blocks are and love them. I've already decided that when I upgrade my GPU I'm staying away from EK. It's the little things that companies in such a niche market do that make them stand out to me. And EK is beginning to stand out in a negative way, IMO. Which is a shame because I really like their old stuff. All three of my blocks are EK, along with a D5 top, and they've all been great. But the recent changes has made me question my future purchases.

I really need to tear my loop down and give everything a good scrubbing too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaitan*
> 
> Finished my third loop, but never posted any pics of the previous two I don't believe. Anyway, I'll just leave these here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm typically not a fan of blue themed loops, but that is just beautiful. Very well done


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> *I'm typically not a fan of blue themed loops*, but that is just beautiful. Very well done




lol


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaitan*
> 
> Finished my third loop, but never posted any pics of the previous two I don't believe. Anyway, I'll just leave these here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build you have there. Especially that coolant.


----------



## phantasml

Decided to join the fun







. Just finished my build... Still need a few things to do but too lazy


----------



## justanoldman

So I have now learned that you can't use distilled water and a silver kill coil with a nickel gpu waterblock. I got a recommendation to use PrimoChill Liquid Utopia additive instead of the kill coil.

Anyone have experience with that?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> So I have now learned that you can't use distilled water and a silver kill coil with a nickel gpu waterblock. I got a recommendation to use PrimoChill Liquid Utopia additive instead of the kill coil.
> 
> Anyone have experience with that?


Who or what told you that? That you can't use silver kill coil with distilled if you have nickel blocks?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Who or what told you that? That you can't use silver kill coil with distilled if you have nickel blocks?


The guy in charge of watercooling at Frozen, and Koolance blocks all state "Do not use silver with nickel in the same system."


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The guy in charge of watercooling at Frozen, and Koolance blocks all state "Do not use silver with nickel in the same system."


Well that sounds different, that's saying don't use silver with Koolance blocks. But to generalize that statement, and say every nickel block out there is a little out of hand IMO. I've been using silver coil and nickel blocks for a few years now and there have been no issues.

But at the same time I wonder why Koolance would discourage the use?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The guy in charge of watercooling at Frozen, and Koolance blocks all state "Do not use silver with nickel in the same system."
> 
> 
> 
> Well that sounds different, that's saying don't use silver with Koolance blocks. But to generalize that statement, and say every nickel block out there is a little out of hand IMO. I've been using silver coil and nickel blocks for a few years now and there have been no issues.
> 
> But at the same time I wonder why Koolance would discourage the use?
Click to expand...

Because EK set the precedent.
Because EK's plater is rubbish.

Koolance had plating issues as well a few years ago and this is a nice get out clause.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well that sounds different, that's saying don't use silver with Koolance blocks. But to generalize that statement, and say every nickel block out there is a little out of hand IMO. I've been using silver coil and nickel blocks for a few years now and there have been no issues.
> 
> But at the same time I wonder why Koolance would discourage the use?


Frozen said don't use silver kill coils with any nickel blocks and that he had personal experience with it causing real problems. Just repeating info though, don't have any personal experience, which is why I am asking.


----------



## Shaitan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm typically not a fan of blue themed loops, but that is just beautiful. Very well done


Thanks! I'm still kicking around the idea of swiching the fans for the white led/blue blade xigmatek fans. That way I keep the blue theme but light up the interior a bit more without it being too much blue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice build you have there. Especially that coolant.


Thanks, the coolant turned out better than I expected. It is a bit darker in person and matches everything almost perfectly.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Frozen said don't use silver kill coils with any nickel blocks and that he had personal experience with it causing real problems. Just repeating info though, don't have any personal experience, which is why I am asking.


Yea definitely understand that. Always good to follow the best practices. Well, since ya asked, from my personal experience...maybe I've been lucky...I've have had no issues.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because EK set the precedent.
> Because EK's plater is rubbish.
> 
> Koolance had plating issues as well a few years ago and this is a nice get out clause.


So if one has an EK nickel gpu waterblock, and can't use a silver kill coil, would you recommend the Liquid Utopia or something else?


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> So if one has an EK nickel gpu waterblock, and can't use a silver kill coil, would you recommend the Liquid Utopia or something else?


Since most manufacturers don't warranty the use of other products with theirs, I went with the solution that was recommended by the pump manufacturers liquid since that is the part most likely to fail.


----------



## KaRLiToS

*I never had bad experience with* _Copper + Nickel + Silver + Brass + Distilled Water_

*I had issue with* : _Copper + Nickel + Silver + Brass + Distilled Water + Vinegar_

I will never make that mistake again. In my head it was: " NICEEE !!! I think I found a way to clean my loop without dissassembling everything! "









*PS*: Don't use vinegar with Nickel


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *I never had bad experience with* _Copper + Nickel + Silver + Brass + Distilled Water_
> 
> *I had issue with* : _Copper + Nickel + Silver + Brass + Distilled Water + Vinegar_
> 
> I will never make that mistake again. In my head it was: " NICEEE !!! I think I found a way to clean my loop without dissassembling everything! "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *PS*: Don't use vinegar with Nickel


Ive never had issues either








I use premix coolant and a killcoil ( cause its in a awkward place in my res /pump cant get it out )
Try vodka next time , chuck a couple of nips in and one for yourself


----------



## KaRLiToS

So like some of you know, I have sold my Quadfire because I have been offered a great amount of money for it. And now its time to test some cards... on air









I notice that my *LED kit*, *dual pumps*, *21 fans* and a *small temperature sensor LCD* cost around *140watts*

This is how much the Quad damage cost in distilled water without the cards







almost two liters.




*Can someone tell me if I have enough radiators for CPU and motherboard blocks?*


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> So like some of you know, I have sold my Quadfire because I have been offered a great amount of money for it. And now its time to test some cards... on air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I notice that my *LED kit*, *dual pumps*, *21 fans* and a *small temperature sensor LCD* *cost around 140watts*
> 
> This is how much the Quad damage cost in distilled water without the cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> almost two liters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Can someone tell me if I have enough radiators for CPU and motherboard blocks?*


What you think?
I mean those are passive cooled with bare heatsinks...

I think it would be a waste and hassle to watercool those..Like watercooling ram as well..


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> So like some of you know, I have sold my Quadfire because I have been offered a great amount of money for it. And now its time to test some cards... on air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I notice that my *LED kit*, *dual pumps*, *21 fans* and a *small temperature sensor LCD* cost around *140watts*
> 
> This is how much the Quad damage cost in distilled water without the cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> almost two liters.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Can someone tell me if I have enough radiators for CPU and motherboard blocks?*


Oh my! What cards are you going with now?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> What you think?
> I mean those are passive cooled with bare heatsinks...
> 
> I think it would be a waste and hassle to watercool those..Like watercooling ram as well..


I think he was kidding with that question...kind of why he gave a







at the end.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

in OCN i believe anything lol


----------



## KaRLiToS

I have a HD 7970 to test.

I might get a GTX 680 too. Maybe a Titan, I want to try GTX 650ti boost in SLI and HD 7870 XT.

Unfortunately I have lost interest in playing games, its like if none interest me anymore. I am waiting for next gen of cards and awaiting the HD 8970 impatiently.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *Can someone tell me if I have enough radiators for CPU and motherboard blocks?*


no. you need a minimum of 480 more. better go with a ut60 or monsta with push/pull 38mm sanyos to make sure you have enough!


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys,

I've finally started my Phantom 630 builds and the cooling setup in one of them will be a white GT Xtreme 360 in the top, with a white Monsta 240 on the bottom.

It only took a tiny mod to be able to fit 38mm tall fans in the top area, so that even though I'll only be able to fit 1 set of fans to the 360, they can be 38mm push fans.

There is plenty of room for push-pull on the lower 240, even using 32mm thick fans.

I was looking at 3 of these for the top as push fans on the GTX 360:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=23747

And 4 of these in P-P on the Monsta 240 on the bottom:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=4633

Both have almost 6mm/H2O static pressure and 100+ cfm at the 2400 to 2600 RPM range.

I haven't used either of them before, and I was hoping I might find some one with some experience with either of these fans.

They will be on a controller, so the noise level can be adjusted when max performance is not needed.

Thanks in advance for your feedback,

Darlene


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I have a HD 7970 to test.
> 
> I might get a GTX 680 too. Maybe a Titan, I want to try GTX 650ti boost in SLI and HD 7870 XT.
> 
> Unfortunately I have lost interest in playing games, its like if none interest me anymore. *I am waiting for next gen of cards* and awaiting the HD 8970 impatiently.


^^this ^^
I want the titan pretty bad, and I'd give the 680's to my wife, but my curiosity sits with the 780's atm.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> I want the titan pretty bad, and I'd give the 680's to my wife, but my curiosity sits with the 780's atm.


Yeah, I'm waiting for GTX 780 or HD 8970 as well so I can upgrade my GTX 680. Apparently the HD 8970 is not due until the end of the year, but with AMD's new drivers killing Nvidia in the price/performance ratio, I wouldn't be overly surprised to see GTX 780 this summer, or even just a GTX 685. But then again, we might have a repeat of the GTX 200 series where NV just gives up for a while and waits it out.


----------



## NewHighScore

I have a question for the good folks of the water cooling club.

I ordered a reservoir faceplate from dwood for my XSPC D5 all black reservoir. Will I need to drain my loop to remove the current faceplate and put the new one on or will it be ok to just remove the current one and swap em out? I can't tell if those 4 screws are used to create any kind of seal or not.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've finally started my Phantom 630 builds and the cooling setup in one of them will be a white GT Xtreme 360 in the top, with a white Monsta 240 on the bottom.
> 
> It only took a tiny mod to be able to fit 38mm tall fans in the top area, so that even though I'll only be able to fit 1 set of fans to the 360, they can be 38mm push fans.
> 
> There is plenty of room for push-pull on the lower 240, even using 32mm thick fans.
> 
> I was looking at 3 of these for the top as push fans on the GTX 360:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=23747
> 
> And 4 of these in P-P on the Monsta 240 on the bottom:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=4633
> 
> Both have almost 6mm/H2O static pressure and 100+ cfm at the 2400 to 2600 RPM range.
> 
> I haven't used either of them before, and I was hoping I might find some one with some experience with either of these fans.
> 
> They will be on a controller, so the noise level can be adjusted when max performance is not needed.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your feedback,
> 
> Darlene


Looking forward to seeing the twins progress.
I had a SS FM 122 quite some time ago, but it was mounted on a Thermalright GT gpu air cooler. I found it to be very irritating for sound level at full tilt. Turning the included controller down helped, but really seemed to cut the static pressure down as well. As a rad fan, on a better controller, it may be better, but I wasn't impressed with it, I really prefer my AP-15's to that fan.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I have a question for the good folks of the water cooling club.
> 
> I ordered a reservoir faceplate from dwood for my XSPC D5 all black reservoir. Will I need to drain my loop to remove the current faceplate and put the new one on or will it be ok to just remove the current one and swap em out? I can't tell if those 4 screws are used to create any kind of seal or not.


You just swap it out with the four screws. No need to drain your whole loop.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> You just swap it out with the four screws. No need to drain your whole loop.


Thank you kind sir!


----------



## Bart

Yup. Here's what they look like naked:


----------



## MKHunt

Got enough flow there?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Yeah, I'm waiting for GTX 780 or HD 8970 as well so I can upgrade my GTX 680. Apparently the HD 8970 is not due until the end of the year, but with AMD's new drivers killing Nvidia in the price/performance ratio, I wouldn't be overly surprised to see GTX 780 this summer, or even just a GTX 685. But then again, we might have a repeat of the GTX 200 series where NV just gives up for a while and waits it out.


i was hoping for them to move along with the videocard releases so maxwell can come faster, at this rate maxwell is not gunne be here till 2015..


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Yup. Here's what they look like naked:


NSFW, cover that girl up! This is a PG zone


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> i was hoping for them to move along with the videocard releases so maxwell can come faster, at this rate maxwell is not gunne be here till 2015..


Yeah, who knows... But I would be really happy if they rolled out the 780 before mid-June, since that is when my EVGA Step-up ends.


----------



## MKHunt

Prepare for maximum offense.

My last Swiftech rotary after 5 minutes of bleeding had a drop of water the size of a hypodermic needle form.

So I hit that piece of crap with RTV black.



Of 10 Swiftech rotaries 8 have been wobbly and 3 have leaked. I will never buy another Swiftech product (pumps aside since they kind of a death grip on 35X) ever again.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Just found this for the first time, finally fullblocks from EK, i hate when the pcb is showing, hence why i went with the hydrocopper block for my 690


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Prepare for maximum offense.
> 
> My last Swiftech rotary after 5 minutes of bleeding had a drop of water the size of a hypodermic needle form.
> 
> So I hit that piece of crap with RTV black.
> 
> 
> 
> Of 10 Swiftech rotaries 8 have been wobbly and 3 have leaked. I will never buy another Swiftech product (pumps aside since they kind of a death grip on 35X) ever again.


Damn, not cool at all. I've never tried Swiftech fittings, always used Bitspower, and after seeing and hearing your experience I don't think I'll ever give them a go now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> -snip-
> 
> Just found this for the first time, finally fullblocks from EK, i hate when the pcb is showing, hence why i went with the hydrocopper block for my 690


It's only really recently with the Titan block that it oddly doesn't cover the entire PCB. My 690 EK block covers the entire card.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Damn, not cool at all. I've never tried Swiftech fittings, always used Bitspower, and after seeing and hearing your experience I don't think I'll ever give them a go now.


I can vouch for the EK fittings. They're dirt cheap and TIGHT. If I rotate them counter-clockwise they're so tight they'll unscrew themselves.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Soon.


A bunch of tape residue about the opening, not flaking. In my hurry to see what it looked like without tape, I forgot to drill the mounting holes.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I can vouch for the EK fittings. They're dirt cheap and TIGHT. If I rotate them counter-clockwise they're so tight they'll unscrew themselves.


EK compression fittings were the very first fittings I had ever used in a loop a few years ago, they were nice.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's only really recently with the Titan block that it oddly doesn't cover the entire PCB. My 690 EK block covers the entire card.


Oh didnt know they made a full block style for the gtx690.. to bad it has those horrid circles all over it!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Oh didnt know they made a full block style for the gtx690.. to bad it has those horrid circles all over it!


Ooooh I understand everyone has their own opinions about the circles...but dang you could at least hold back from the rudeness a little and refrain from telling me my block looks "horrid"


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ooooh I understand everyone has their own opinions about the circles...but dang you could at least hold back from the rudeness a little and refrain from telling me my block looks "horrid"


lol no offence bro, thats just my opinion.. everyone has different tastes


----------



## PCModderMike

Indeed, to each their own.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I find it so sexy.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found this for the first time, finally fullblocks from EK, i hate when the pcb is showing, hence why i went with the hydrocopper block for my 690


Every Titan block still looks unappealing compared to the 'glass' Aquacomputer block. Now if only the matching backplate was for sale.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Every Titan block still looks unappealing compared to the 'glass' Aquacomputer block. Now if only the matching backplate was for sale.


The version XSPC released is a close 2nd IMO. Very sleek and sexy.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> lol no offence bro, thats just my opinion.. everyone has different tastes


IMO, 590 was the best looking EK block because it covered the power connectors as well which made an incredibly symmetric look.



The backplate also made it look completely evil.


----------



## PCModderMike

OH yea, that definitely is nice! ^^
My buddy mironccr345 had the acrylic version, looked awesome with the coolant going through it.


----------



## MKHunt

The ice dragon/milky look and the Aurora are so incredibly stunning, but I could never commit to them because distilled is just so cheap and easy









I was also terrified of clouding in the tubes. Dat milky look though. Ohman.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> The ice dragon/milky look and the Aurora are so incredibly stunning, but I could never commit to them because distilled is just so cheap and easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was also terrified of clouding in the tubes. Dat milky look though. Ohman.


No reason to be scurred lol







I played with ID and dye at one time too. Block was totally fine, yea the tubing had some staining to it....but I always change out my tubing anyway from build to build like most people do, so what's the big deal.


----------



## MKHunt

I was more thinking about the tubing itself clouding. I've always used Primochill LRT because I've always had some super tight bends and that stuff, without fail, clouds within a month. At least the green and red do.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I was more thinking about the tubing itself clouding. I've always used Primochill LRT because I've always had some super tight bends and that stuff, without fail, clouds within a month. At least the green and red do.


Ah yea, I was really just messing with you. I have used their white, blue, and as you see in that picture clear tubing in the past....it was actually the colored tubing that formed the plasticizer inside of it, the clear held up alright. Currently trying out Durelene in the current loop, distilled with Mayhems dye, up and running a few weeks now and holding up good.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ah yea, I was really just messing with you. I have used their white, blue, and as you see in that picture clear tubing in the past....it was actually the colored tubing that formed the plasticizer inside of it, the clear held up alright. Currently trying out Durelene in the current loop, distilled with Mayhems dye, up and running a few weeks now and holding up good.


You're a bad influence. I'm now seriously considering how blue dye in red tubing might look. KB and mouse are already purple.

As an aside, Koolance RP-401x2 is the biggest pain to bleed. Either that or maybe the fact that my 35X is running 100%....


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> As an aside, Koolance RP-401x2 is the biggest pain to bleed. Either that or maybe the fact that my 35X is running 100%....


In nearly 10 years of water cooling, nothing has frustrated me as much as this reservoir. It was horrific to bleed and the front o-ring is nothing short of a nightmare to reinstall. I have sworn to never use it again.









As for dye, it definitely can stain. I'll be taking pics of my blue blocks in the next couple of days. I should be able to polish off the staining by hand more than likely though.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaitan*
> 
> Thanks! I'm still kicking around the idea of swiching the fans for the white led/blue blade xigmatek fans. That way I keep the blue theme but light up the interior a bit more without it being too much blue.


Those xigmatek fans are nice. I had the orange version in my build for a while and really liked them. They are pretty quiet and had pretty good airflow. I switched out the white LEDs with orange ones though. Even with the white LEDs they had a really nice effect. Not sure about the blue version, but the orange blades are UV reactive. The Gelid Wing fans are really nice as well and come with the same blue blades as the xigmatek fans


----------



## KaRLiToS

*I have used the RP-452x2 v1.2 and it was also the biggest pain to bleed. I had to put back my EK D5 Dual top because I was exasperated. I remember people were modding the reservoir to make it bleed better*


*Then Koolance released this*


*The Rev 2.0 is suppose to be much easier to bleed. It's sad because the look of it is superb and robust.*


----------



## Lazy Bear

I think that RAM matches now.


----------



## DizZz

^that looks amazing. just looked through your whole build log as well


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> In nearly 10 years of water cooling, nothing has frustrated me as much as this reservoir. It was horrific to bleed and the front o-ring is nothing short of a nightmare to reinstall. I have sworn to never use it again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for dye, it definitely can stain. I'll be taking pics of my blue blocks in the next couple of days. I should be able to polish off the staining by hand more than likely though.


Do you have any tips? I've got the v1.1 and my case has been I swear every direction it can manage for the past week while still having the cables connected and my computer still sounds like it had a questionable burrito earlier.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> IMO, 590 was the best looking EK block because it covered the power connectors as well which made an incredibly symmetric look.
> *snip*
> 
> The backplate also made it look completely evil.


yes the 590 block is very sexy, but dat back plate is really doing it for me!


----------



## wermad

This has my vote for prettiest gpu block







:



Here's another contender


----------



## MKHunt

Really? The nickel + stainless over the nickel+plexi?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Really? The nickel + stainless over the nickel+plexi?










its all about the look, not necessarily the materials. You can have a gold plated turd, but it will still look like a turd.


----------



## MKHunt

I was asking in terms of the look. The Aquagrafx for Titan with the plexi top is


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> So I have now learned that you can't use distilled water and a silver kill coil with a nickel gpu waterblock. I got a recommendation to use PrimoChill Liquid Utopia additive instead of the kill coil.
> 
> Anyone have experience with that?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Who or what told you that? That you can't use silver kill coil with distilled if you have nickel blocks?
Click to expand...

Just for getting some clearance in this:

Every chemist would tell you that it is never a good idea to use silver in a system which contains copper, nickel and brass. Having nickel or not doesn't make a difference. The only reason for the nickel flaking off is that it just is a thin layer. But copper and brass are corroding aswell.
If you have a look at this:



You can see that copper, zinc (brass is copper and zink) and nickel are very close to each other while silver has much higher worth (not talking about the marked price







)

Anyway, as long as you change your coolant very often (water needs to capture a specific amount of silver ions to lead to corrosion) and don't have a direct contact between your silver koil and the other metals you will probably never experience any problems whatsoever.

But if you leave your coolant too long in the system it will definitely corrode. It also depends on the quality of the different metals, means a higher silver (f.e. 999 silver) will lead to more corrosion and a cleaner copper will not corrode so quickly as cheaper not so clean copper...

So it's always risky to have silver kill koils but the risk can be minimized


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> *Do you have any tips?* I've got the v1.1 and my case has been I swear every direction it can manage for the past week while still having the cables connected and my computer still sounds like it had a questionable burrito earlier.


Not really.









I've tried it w/ the bleed tube installed and without. I've also tried both of the inserts available for the other chamber. Nothing really helped besides slowing the pump down and rocking the case. And that was a painful process.


----------



## superericla

Copper itself is naturally antibacterial, so anyone with enough copper in their loop wouldn't need a biocide.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it w/ the bleed tube installed and without. I've also tried both of the inserts available for the other chamber. Nothing really helped besides slowing the pump down and rocking the case. And that was a painful process.


My HDD platters are going to love me.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Just for getting some clearance in this:
> 
> -snip-
> 
> So it's always risky to have silver kill koils but the risk can be minimized


Then I guess it's actually a good thing I'm so indecisive about my builds and constantly changing things. I don't think I've ever had a loop up and running more than 6 months. Also the reason I don't make a big deal over tubing having the potential to cloud since I'm changing it out so often anyways.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> You can always use a Single link bridge for your card. With this bridge, it will save you a lot of questionning and hassle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **** NEW *** EK-FC Bridge SINGLE - Acetal*
> 
> *9,99$*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was looking at this but had the same problem, couldnt tell if it would fit or not... I am sure it does but might have to spend the $10 just incase....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> ^ That's what I use. Kind of silly EK didn't include it with the blocks IMO....but, it's cheap and it makes a loop cleaner using it.


I wish they included it over the other one as it is more of a basic block set up. If its not too much trouble maybe you could measure the width of this block








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaitan*
> 
> Finished my third loop, but never posted any pics of the previous two I don't believe. Anyway, I'll just leave these here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is almost exactly what I am going for







Is this just mayhems blue berry pastel?


----------



## wermad

Anyone interested, here's a *couple* of DD uni blocks w/ heatsinks for $65:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1078_1008&products_id=37482

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1078_1008&products_id=37483


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Prepare for maximum offense.
> 
> My last Swiftech rotary after 5 minutes of bleeding had a drop of water the size of a hypodermic needle form.
> 
> So I hit that piece of crap with RTV black.
> 
> 
> 
> Of 10 Swiftech rotaries 8 have been wobbly and 3 have leaked. I will never buy another Swiftech product (pumps aside since they kind of a death grip on 35X) ever again.


That is bad. Choice of fittings over here is very limited. The ones easily available are Swiftech & Enzotech. Koolance available too but they are expensive. I got Enzotech fittings & hopes it doesn't leak. My water cooling build is halted again & this time I can't get the angle rotary fittings I want. All seller I contacted in my country out of stock.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Just for getting some clearance in this:
> 
> Every chemist would tell you that it is never a good idea to use silver in a system which contains copper, nickel and brass. Having nickel or not doesn't make a difference. The only reason for the nickel flaking off is that it just is a thin layer. But copper and brass are corroding aswell.
> If you have a look at this:
> 
> 
> 
> You can see that copper, zinc (brass is copper and zink) and nickel are very close to each other while silver has much higher worth (not talking about the marked price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Anyway, as long as you change your coolant very often (water needs to capture a specific amount of silver ions to lead to corrosion) and don't have a direct contact between your silver koil and the other metals you will probably never experience any problems whatsoever.
> 
> But if you leave your coolant too long in the system it will definitely corrode. It also depends on the quality of the different metals, means a higher silver (f.e. 999 silver) will lead to more corrosion and a cleaner copper will not corrode so quickly as cheaper not so clean copper...
> 
> So it's always risky to have silver kill koils but the risk can be minimized


So, basically I don't have to worry the nickel flaking/corroding if I use distilled water without silver kill coil?


----------



## Ash2097

I only built my loop a few days ago using Mayhems UV blue, I want to drain the loop to add something will it be ok to just re-use the fluid?


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> I only built my loop a few days ago using Mayhems UV blue, I want to drain the loop to add something will it be ok to just re-use the fluid?


You will be fine reusing the coolant, Drain it in some container with a led on it to keep any debris out. The life span of the coolant is 6-12 months, a few days is still fresh.


----------



## wermad

I love my Enzotechs! Leak free and smooth to screw on compression fittings. They also give you extra o-rings in other colors for you to choose


----------



## driftingforlife

My phobya fittings are good, only one leeks but only when at a certain angle.


----------



## wermad

I've had phobyas and they were awesome. They don't look that great but they were easy to work with and never had a leak. The worst I've had was xspc and crappy TFC. I've got a couple of BP fittings and they sure are smooth as glass







Alphacool is pretty close in terms of quality and smoothness. They would be my choice if you want BP level but don't want to pay BP pricing


----------



## driftingforlife

I have some Alphacool 90's rotary's and they are great.


----------



## _REAPER_

Looking for some advise I am going to be mounting one of these rads in the front and the top of the case, do you think it would best to run the tubes on the back of the case or in the front?


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> You will be fine reusing the coolant, Drain it in some container with a led on it to keep any debris out. The life span of the coolant is 6-12 months, a few days is still fresh.


Thanks


----------



## turbobnl

NP







good luck on the build. I'm on the same boat planning out my drain and fill ports.


----------



## MiiX

I heard EVGA lets me use other coolers on the GPU's, is this true?
If so, this must be the best choice for a GPU that is going under water?


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I heard EVGA lets me use other coolers on the GPU's, is this true?
> If so, this must be the best choice for a GPU that is going under water?


Putting a aftermarket waterblock will not void your EVGA warranty, As long as everything is put back to factory (factory cooler, screws, bolts etc.) if you ever need to send it back for RMA.

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=309344&mpage=1


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I heard EVGA lets me use other coolers on the GPU's, is this true?
> If so, this must be the best choice for a GPU that is going under water?


If you're careful, you can add a water block and still retain warranty with any card. Just make sure you put back the original cooler. I've dealt w/ difference companies and they will honor your card. Just don't be a noob and send a soaking wet card or a modified/obvious-damaged


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Putting a aftermarket waterblock will not void your EVGA warranty, As long as everything is put back to factory and physical damage before sending it out for RMA.
> 
> http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=309344&mpage=1


here's a quote from there

"Question / Issue Does water-cooling or installing a third party cooling solution on my video card void the warranty?
Answer / Solution Installing third party cooling solutions does not void warranty on our products. Just be sure to keep the original cooling solution as it will have to be on the card if it is ever sent in for RMA. Any physical damage such as burn marks or damaged PCB will void ALL warranties. "


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Looking for some advise I am going to be mounting one of these rads in the front and the top of the case, do you think it would best to run the tubes on the back of the case or in the front?


I vote for front as long as you can route it well and look nice








I've a bad experience with front and top mount rad though, just for the sake of sharing

the front rad feeds warm air to the top rad and the top rad wont work efficiently
thats why I've my rear fan as intake to feed cool air for the top rad


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I vote for front as long as you can route it well and look nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've a bad experience with front and top mount rad though, just for the sake of sharing
> 
> the front rad feeds warm air to the top rad and the top rad wont work efficiently
> thats why I've my rear fan as intake to feed cool air for the top rad


I'm facing this problem as we speak. Front rad as intake blowing hot air to top rad which is the exhaust. I have to leave the side panel open for a instant 7c drop lol


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> I'm facing this problem as we speak. Front rad as intake blowing hot air to top rad which is the exhaust. I have to leave the side panel open for a instant 7c drop lol


Get your rear fan as intake and put some filter on it
guarantee performs better though not sure it would be better than taking your side off lol

cant imagine the dust when you've the side off


----------



## bundymania




----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Get your rear fan as intake and put some filter on it
> guarantee performs better though not sure it would be better than taking your side off lol
> 
> cant imagine the dust when you've the side off


One little problem with putting a fan in the rear is I blocked it off with acrylic =(, Someone mention switching the top fans and leave them as intake but I'm confused and don't know what I should do. Doing the top as intake and front as intake will cause positive pressure and no where to exit in my situation.

ps: your build thread was one of my aspiration and reason why I went with white acrylic for the rear, floor and side


----------



## turbobnl

wow that looks really good


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Get your rear fan as intake and put some filter on it
> guarantee performs better though not sure it would be better than taking your side off lol
> 
> cant imagine the dust when you've the side off


I am going to put the top rad as intake as well so it pulls in cold air from the top as well just have the one rear fan as exhaust


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! This is a great alternative over the cylinder res. I just checked the website and they come in diff. sizes and in white.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Putting a aftermarket waterblock will not void your EVGA warranty, As long as everything is put back to factory (factory cooler, screws, bolts etc.) if you ever need to send it back for RMA.
> 
> http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=309344&mpage=1


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> here's a quote from there
> 
> "Question / Issue Does water-cooling or installing a third party cooling solution on my video card void the warranty?
> Answer / Solution Installing third party cooling solutions does not void warranty on our products. Just be sure to keep the original cooling solution as it will have to be on the card if it is ever sent in for RMA. Any physical damage such as burn marks or damaged PCB will void ALL warranties. "


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you're careful, you can add a water block and still retain warranty with any card. Just make sure you put back the original cooler. I've dealt w/ difference companies and they will honor your card. Just don't be a noob and send a soaking wet card or a modified/obvious-damaged


Thanks alot for the info, both of you.

I think i will got for a EVGA card first time as its also the cheapest GTX 670 I can get my hands on







Just need to sell my MSI GTX 580 Lightning first


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> One little problem with putting a fan in the rear is I blocked it off with acrylic =(, Someone mention switching the top fans and leave them as intake but I'm confused and don't know what I should do. Doing the top as intake and front as intake will cause positive pressure and no where to exit in my situation.
> 
> ps: your build thread was one of my aspiration and reason why I went with white acrylic for the rear, floor and side


Youre being too generous with the compliment









anyway yeah I wouldn't do top for intake as for positive air pressure.
what about changing your side window to mesh?
maybe only the top half

mod it my friend







mod it....


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Thanks alot for the info, both of you.
> 
> I think i will got for a EVGA card first time as its also the cheapest GTX 670 I can get my hands on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to sell my MSI GTX 580 Lightning first


Np, 670 is a beast card, but why not wait it out for the 700 series card from nvidia? With the money spent on a water block and 670 card you could save in the mean time for the next generation. Either way good luck on the build.


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Youre being too generous with the compliment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyway yeah I wouldn't do top for intake as for positive air pressure.
> what about changing your side window to mesh?
> maybe only the top half
> 
> mod it my friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mod it....


Ahh that was one of my options that I was thinking of too, another would be to use my two open bay and stick a 120 fan. With a fan up front, I can somehow fab a design with mesh and sheet metal to blend with the case. So many ideas and options to sleep on. Thank you for the ideas


----------



## Shaitan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> This is almost exactly what I am going for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this just mayhems blue berry pastel?


Yes, it is just the blueberry pastel with no extra dye. I used about 1 and two-thirds bottles to give you a reference.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> So, basically I don't have to worry the nickel flaking/corroding if I use distilled water without silver kill coil?


...as long as you don't use a algae killer wich contains silver ions or any other high worthy metal or acid you should be fine.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> So, basically I don't have to worry the nickel flaking/corroding if I use distilled water without silver kill coil?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...as long as you don't use a algae killer wich contains silver ions or any other high worthy metal or acid you should be fine.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the explanation.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love my Enzotechs! Leak free and smooth to screw on compression fittings. They also give you extra o-rings in other colors for you to choose


The enzotech rotaries I have are definitely the worst that I have used.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaitan*
> 
> Yes, it is just the blueberry pastel with no extra dye. I used about 1 and two-thirds bottles to give you reference.


Interesting thanks! I am going to be having a very small loop so hopefully I will be able to get away with just one bottle


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hey dzuks, are you really running 4 exhaust fans and only 1 intake? or did you not do a window mod?


I didn't do a window mod, so i have the 200mm and 220mm fans serving as intake fans for now.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Np, 670 is a beast card, but why not wait it out for the 700 series card from nvidia? With the money spent on a water block and 670 card you could save in the mean time for the next generation. Either way good luck on the build.


I might just do that... Gives me more time to finish the case aswell
The 700 series are released in March or so?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I might just do that... Gives me more time to finish the case aswell
> The 700 series are released in March or so?


Nobody's really sure right now, but a lot of rumors are pointing to a June release for the 700 series. The only concrete information I can find at this point in time is that the AMD HD 8000 series won't launch until the end of the year. Hopefully Nvidia doesn't wait that long.


----------



## bundymania

Here´s a brandnew cpu waterblock from the small east german company L.E.


----------



## WebsterXC

Hey everyone I need some advice on my Raven RV02. I've been having a lot of fun overclocking my dual 7970's. In the process however, my voltage bumps cause the cards to jump to to 55C/60C on full load in FurMark (1.20V). Obviously these aren't horrible temperatures, but I'd like them to be lower if at all possible, especially since I'm planning to jump to 1.23V-1.25V.

Currently installed in my rig is a Magicool triple 180mm radiator, as well as an XSPC EX120 set up as an intake on the top of the case. I wanted to stay as Silverstone as possible, so the EX120 has a Silverstone fan mounted to it (45CFM, 1.00 mm H20). While it was dead silent and great performing at stock clocks, I feel like I'm wasting my 120mm fan hole space.

Basically my question is: would I benefit from swapping out the EX120 with a higher density 120 radiator (like a Black Ice GTS), replacing the fan (Gentle Typhoon 2150), or both? I'd like the radiator to be as thin as possible. I could probably go as thick as an Alphacool XT45 radiator; I feel a UT60 would be pushing it in terms of asthetics. Replacing the fan would be my favored option, as I would have to drain the loop to replace the radiator, but if the temperatures would be significantly better I'll definately do it.

Pictures are attached to help you see my rig (and because I love showing off!)


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Here´s a brandnew cpu waterblock from the small east german company L.E.


That block is beautiful. I may have found a replacement for my Supreme HF. Have you done any testing on it yet?


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've finally started my Phantom 630 builds and the cooling setup in one of them will be a white GT Xtreme 360 in the top, with a white Monsta 240 on the bottom.
> 
> It only took a tiny mod to be able to fit 38mm tall fans in the top area, so that even though I'll only be able to fit 1 set of fans to the 360, they can be 38mm push fans.
> 
> There is plenty of room for push-pull on the lower 240, even using 32mm thick fans.
> 
> I was looking at 3 of these for the top as push fans on the GTX 360:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=23747
> 
> And 4 of these in P-P on the Monsta 240 on the bottom:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=4633
> 
> Both have almost 6mm/H2O static pressure and 100+ cfm at the 2400 to 2600 RPM range.
> 
> I haven't used either of them before, and I was hoping I might find some one with some experience with either of these fans.
> 
> They will be on a controller, so the noise level can be adjusted when max performance is not needed.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your feedback,
> 
> Darlene


I use the Koolance fans, have been using them in Push-Pull on my UT60 240 since I got it (about a year), and I haven't seen a better fan for the money! I know you like to use fan controllers, and you will find that these undervolt extremely well! They also don't sound at all like a "cheap" fan at high speed, but have more of the "low-pitched" motor noise found in higher quality fans like Delta/San Ace/Nidec/etc, although the sound of the airflow is significantly greater than the sound of the motor.

The specs are not exaggerated either, or at least not by much. I don't have any expensive testing equipment, but some inexpensive tests and some math tells me that they are pretty close, within margin of error, of what they're advertised as.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> One little problem with putting a fan in the rear is I blocked it off with acrylic =(, Someone mention switching the top fans and leave them as intake but I'm confused and don't know what I should do. Doing the top as intake and front as intake will cause positive pressure and no where to exit in my situation.
> 
> ps: your build thread was one of my aspiration and reason why I went with white acrylic for the rear, floor and side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Youre being too generous with the compliment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyway yeah I wouldn't do top for intake as for positive air pressure.
> what about changing your side window to mesh?
> maybe only the top half
> 
> mod it my friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mod it....
Click to expand...

Why?
I run all my fans as intake (14) and have one 120 exhaust and I get great temps,cases are not airtight and hot air gets vented easily.
You do get raised board temps but this is only a few degrees c,nothing to worry about.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> EK are good with this. Especially their blocks, they put like half the amount of copper in their blocks and charge the same price or more.
> 
> Their copper used to be massive and thick and now they are anorexic but for more expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are still PRETTY GOOD blocks, its just the price.


Hehe, sure, we are EVIL.









You probably forgot about how expensive copper has become in the last three years. Also, your card will be grateful to carry a lighter water block than before, older blocks do carry a lot of dead weight.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Hehe, sure, we are EVIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You probably forgot about how expensive copper has become in the last three years. Also, your card will be grateful to carry a lighter water block than before, older blocks do carry a lot of dead weight.


Don't get me wrong Tiborrr.

I said they are *still very good blocks* and you are not the only company cutting out on material. Its a fact.

EK is tattooed on me. My rig is full of EK, and my next build will be full of EK.

Everytime I recommend a CPU block, a GPU block, a MOBO block, a pump top, a reservoir... *I always recommend EK*. (Not fittings, pumps or rad though)

And you know I love EK









(Yes yes my mobo block is koolance but there was none available at Dazmode on the RIVE release date)


----------



## tiborrr12

Haha, it's all good buddy!







:thumb:


----------



## MKHunt

Meanwhile, I will recommend without hesitation EK PSC rotaries. I ordered 5 and every single one was so incredibly tight it was amazing. I tried to wiggle them and instead wiggled my entire rig. The price is 100% right on them too.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


What the what!?!?! ...That res is so smexy, it makes me want to do another build just to be able to see it every day.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Meanwhile, I will recommend without hesitation EK PSC rotaries. I ordered 5 and every single one was so incredibly tight it was amazing. I tried to wiggle them and instead wiggled my entire rig. The price is 100% right on them too.


I haven't shop for fittings in a while though. I see the new design is great


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Hey everyone I need some advice on my Raven RV02. I've been having a lot of fun overclocking my dual 7970's. In the process however, my voltage bumps cause the cards to jump to to 55C/60C on full load in FurMark (1.20V). Obviously these aren't horrible temperatures, but I'd like them to be lower if at all possible, especially since I'm planning to jump to 1.23V-1.25V.
> 
> Currently installed in my rig is a Magicool triple 180mm radiator, as well as an XSPC EX120 set up as an intake on the top of the case. I wanted to stay as Silverstone as possible, so the EX120 has a Silverstone fan mounted to it (45CFM, 1.00 mm H20). While it was dead silent and great performing at stock clocks, I feel like I'm wasting my 120mm fan hole space.
> 
> Basically my question is: would I benefit from swapping out the EX120 with a higher density 120 radiator (like a Black Ice GTS), replacing the fan (Gentle Typhoon 2150), or both? I'd like the radiator to be as thin as possible. I could probably go as thick as an Alphacool XT45 radiator; I feel a UT60 would be pushing it in terms of asthetics. Replacing the fan would be my favored option, as I would have to drain the loop to replace the radiator, but if the temperatures would be significantly better I'll definately do it.
> 
> Pictures are attached to help you see my rig (and because I love showing off!)


I would try to get fans with better static pressure and maybe change the orientation of the top fan to exhaust. All that heat in case is probably raising your temps. Getting a thicker rad would be last resort as it wont guarantee a temp. drop.


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why?
> I run all my fans as intake (14) and have one 120 exhaust and I get great temps,cases are not airtight and hot air gets vented easily.
> You do get raised board temps but this is only a few degrees c,nothing to worry about.


I'll give this a shot, Thank You


----------



## WebsterXC

Wouldn't an intake fan guarantee colder temperatures though? The entire 3x180mm radiator is exhausting hot case air.


----------



## driftingforlife

Fitted the new card in under 50 mins


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Fitted the new card in under 50 mins


You are not afraid that the top card gets less flow of water like this with both fittings being on the same side of the bridge?


----------



## driftingforlife

Nope, never had a problem with parallel.

Still need to bleed the system.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Hey everyone I need some advice on my Raven RV02. I've been having a lot of fun overclocking my dual 7970's. In the process however, my voltage bumps cause the cards to jump to to 55C/60C on full load in FurMark (1.20V). Obviously these aren't horrible temperatures, but I'd like them to be lower if at all possible, especially since I'm planning to jump to 1.23V-1.25V.
> 
> Currently installed in my rig is a Magicool triple 180mm radiator, as well as an XSPC EX120 set up as an intake on the top of the case. I wanted to stay as Silverstone as possible, so the EX120 has a Silverstone fan mounted to it (45CFM, 1.00 mm H20). While it was dead silent and great performing at stock clocks, I feel like I'm wasting my 120mm fan hole space.
> 
> Basically my question is: would I benefit from swapping out the EX120 with a higher density 120 radiator (like a Black Ice GTS), replacing the fan (Gentle Typhoon 2150), or both? I'd like the radiator to be as thin as possible. I could probably go as thick as an Alphacool XT45 radiator; I feel a UT60 would be pushing it in terms of asthetics. Replacing the fan would be my favored option, as I would have to drain the loop to replace the radiator, but if the temperatures would be significantly better I'll definately do it.
> 
> Pictures are attached to help you see my rig (and because I love showing off!)


What would benefit you the most is cutting away the very restrictive grills at the bottom of the case so the bottom radiator gets more airflow.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Wouldn't an intake fan guarantee colder temperatures though? The entire 3x180mm radiator is exhausting hot case air.


Not if all the rads are intaking externally rather than recycling air.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Wouldn't an intake fan guarantee colder temperatures though? The entire 3x180mm radiator is exhausting hot case air.


Hot air blowing in the the case from the 540 rad and the hot air coming from the top rad, is more than likely heating up the components inside. All that positive pressure makes it harder for the heat to escape the case. I was only suggesting it as it might help drop the temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What would benefit you the most is cutting away the very restrictive grills at the bottom of the case so the bottom radiator gets more airflow.


Agreed, something I should have done when I was doing my build. Not necessarily for temps, but the noise.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I use the Koolance fans, have been using them in Push-Pull on my UT60 240 since I got it (about a year), and I haven't seen a better fan for the money! I know you like to use fan controllers, and you will find that these undervolt extremely well! They also don't sound at all like a "cheap" fan at high speed, but have more of the "low-pitched" motor noise found in higher quality fans like Delta/San Ace/Nidec/etc, although the sound of the airflow is significantly greater than the sound of the motor.
> 
> The specs are not exaggerated either, or at least not by much. I don't have any expensive testing equipment, but some inexpensive tests and some math tells me that they are pretty close, within margin of error, of what they're advertised as.


Thanks for the feedback.

I use the bigger koolance fans on my switch build, (20mmH2O / 184cfm) but don't want near that much noise this time around.

I've had good luck with all the Koolance products I've used so far, and these looked like a better alternative, (dual ball bearings, good static pressure & cfm specs, reasonable max speed) to the similarly spec'd and priced Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm fans that have sleeve bearings and a particularly irritating sound, at least to my ears.

I just ordered some of each of the ones I posted about, so I'll see how they do when they get here.

Darlene


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> One little problem with putting a fan in the rear is I blocked it off with acrylic =(, Someone mention switching the top fans and leave them as intake but I'm confused and don't know what I should do. Doing the top as intake and front as intake will cause positive pressure and no where to exit in my situation.
> 
> ps: your build thread was one of my aspiration and reason why I went with white acrylic for the rear, floor and side


Nice clean rig mate love it


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not if all the rads are intaking externally rather than recycling air.


So are you guys suggesting switching my giant 180 radiator to intake and the 120 to exhaust? Wouldn't that get the ambient case temperature too warm?


----------



## tiborrr12

Better late than never, but it's finally ready:


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Better late than never, but it's finally ready:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! Good work on all the new blocks. CSQ was OK, but these new ones are very nice in a subtle, understated way that I think will go well with more builds.


----------



## longroadtrip

Coming soon...


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Better late than never, but it's finally ready:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now THAT is very nice! Want to make a block for the X79 Extreme7 and the X79 Extreme9 please????

Jeffinslaw


----------



## tiborrr12

Maybe some high end ASRock X79, but this was our last Z77 water block. Don't know, have to sleep on it


----------



## justanoldman

Does anyone have experience with the Swiftech Lok-seal compression fittings?
I am just using the simple 3/8-5/8 ones, not angled.

It seems like you have to use a decent amount of force to turn the collet to make it go all the way down on the fitting. I have had an issue where while tightening the collet the whole fitting turned in the rad which ended up over tightening the fitting and breaking it.

Just wondering if anyone had experience with this and might be able to give me some pointers about the best way to install them.


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Better late than never, but it's finally ready:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's actually a quite nice looking block. Good work.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Better late than never, but it's finally ready:


Will it fit the extreme 9? The exteme 9 and exteme 11 look really similar in layouts the only difference I've seen is the number of PCIe slots


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Maybe some high end ASRock X79, but this was our last Z77 water block. Don't know, have to sleep on it


Please! I have the ASRock Extreme7 X79 and the chipset fan is just horrible! Please oh please make a block for that board!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> Will it fit the extreme 9? The exteme 9 and exteme 11 look really similar in layouts the only difference I've seen is the number of PCIe slots


I highly doubt it. There are lots of differences that you may not notice like caps and different components.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## xenomorph113

So I've been tinkering with the idea of parallel loops, this is my latest configuration





i think this is about the limit for my single D5 vario (setup shown plus 2 Koolance 3x120 radiators), when i add a second 670 i will also be adding a second D5 vario

PS: sorry for lower quality pics, taken with my cell


----------



## PCModderMike

Got a new lens, so just playing around with a block that I ended up not using.


----------



## TwentyCent

Flagged as pr0n


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Better late than never, but it's finally ready:


Tiborrr That is a very nice block but I think it's a shame to see the circles to go completely, even though the older CSQ may have been a bit overboard I still liked them and I would love to see some sort of design on your blocks as it gives it some character.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Check these pics, I made an EK Semi CSQ design.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Flagged as pr0n











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Check these pics, I made an EK Semi CSQ design.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Check these pics, I made an EK Semi CSQ design.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is really good, even better than the original as you've balanced the design yet it's still got character, If I ever buy an EK GPU block I'm doing that to it


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Got a new lens, so just playing around with a block that I ended up not using.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


For your server rig.


----------



## CRosko42

Just picked up some of the new advanced lrt clear tubing, some uv clear blue mayhem's, some extra fittings and an ax360.

Fun will be had this weekend!









Will post pics here once shes all put back together, needs a solid cleaning while its all apart.

Been running with just an rx240 for my gpu/cpu for a year now and somehow made it through last summer without any heat issues but came close on some warmer days, swapping to the ax360 should get rid of that problem moving forward. It is amazing really though that a gpu + cpu has reached the point of taking just a thick 240 or thin 360 for "adequate" temps with no AC during summer weather.

Also this ends my streak of 12 months and 2 weeks (yes I counted, it was a constant struggle







) of spending no money on my system other than the occasional gallon of distilled water. Excited to have some work to do on it.


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> Just picked up some of the new advanced lrt clear tubing, some uv clear blue mayhem's, some extra fittings and an ax360.
> 
> Fun will be had this weekend!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post pics here once shes all put back together, needs a solid cleaning while its all apart.
> 
> Been running with just an rx240 for my gpu/cpu for a year now and somehow made it through last summer without any heat issues but came close on some warmer days, swapping to the ax360 should get rid of that problem moving forward. It is amazing really though that a gpu + cpu has reached the point of taking just a thick 240 or thin 360 for "adequate" temps with no AC during summer weather.
> 
> Also this ends my streak of 12 months and 2 weeks (yes I counted, it was a constant struggle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) of spending no money on my system other than the occasional gallon of distilled water. Excited to have some work to do on it.


Congrats! I hate getting stuck in no-pc building dry spells.


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Maybe some high end ASRock X79, but this was our last Z77 water block. Don't know, have to sleep on it


If you make an extreme9 x79 block I will love you forever.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Check these pics, I made an EK Semi CSQ design.


Very nice work indeed


----------



## bleucharm28

Anyways, just wanted to share some pictures. I got rid of TJ07 and went with this type of build. I love them nickel Heatkiller waterblocks is freakin sexy, same with backplate. So is the Koolance CPU 380i block and those Quick Disconnects from Koolance is next best thing since slice bread. The way i had setup is so easy to clean. ENJOY!

*OK Fixed it, hope you'll can see bigger pictures*. Can't get it to post bigger picture. I hope the links will help.

http://postimage.org/image/kzu85g2tb/ http://postimage.org/image/okq3oo7cv/

http://postimage.org/image/90ipy4x8f/ http://postimage.org/image/ru4iv4vgf/

http://postimage.org/image/lugrrhanz/ http://postimage.org/image/6zs6db133/

[img=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1403179/] [img=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1403180/]

[img=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1403181/] [img=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1403182/]

[img=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1403183/] [img=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1403184/]


----------



## cafu02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bleucharm28*
> 
> Anyways, just wanted to share some pictures. I got rid of TJ07 and went with this type of build. I love them nickel Heatkiller waterblocks is freakin sexy, same with backplate. So is the Koolance CPU 380i block and those Quick Disconnects from Koolance is next best thing since slice bread. The way i had setup is so easy to clean. ENJOY!
> 
> http://postimg.org/image/ru4iv4vgf/http://postimg.org/image/90ipy4x8f/http://postimg.org/image/lugrrhanz/
> http://postimg.org/image/okq3oo7cv/http://postimg.org/image/kzu85g2tb/http://postimg.org/image/6zs6db133/


Hmmm can you maybe post bigger pics
Hard to enjoy them tiny tiny things


----------



## oelkanne

its me again


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That block is beautiful. I may have found a replacement for my Supreme HF. Have you done any testing on it yet?


Nope, it arrived today


----------



## kanaks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Better late than never, but it's finally ready:






I love the new clean look, very minimal and subtle it lets the hardware do the talk! Grats EK for listening the community.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Hi everyone, I would like to share some pics of some major changes to my build. Basically adding my GPU to the loop along with some changes and fixes to current problems. I set aside 2 days to complete this small overhaul but it ended it being more like 6 days due to some unexpected setbacks which involved me having to break out out the rotary tool. Sorry for some of the bad pics since I have terrible lighting and it has not helped that it has been cloudy outside for the past week







Here's revision 2 of my Switch 810 build with a UT60 420mm rad.

I know the coolant seems a little too yellow/green but I will be altering this in the future. The coolant is Mayhems pastel mint green with durelene tubing

Before



After


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











So what do you all think? comments are welcome. More in the build log in my sig


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Got a new lens, so just playing around with a block that I ended up not using.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


]

Very Nice. That block is nice looking always wanted that but also wanted everything to match.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> For your server rig.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> [/SPOILER]]
> 
> Very Nice. That block is nice looking always wanted that but also wanted everything to match.


Thanks. Yea that's why I ended up not using it, because I wanted my EK GPU block to have a matching EK CPU block.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Yea that's why I ended up not using it, because I wanted my EK GPU block to have a matching EK CPU block.


Ahh, never mind. Looked at them too quickly. I thought those were the ones you were going to get from LowFat for your server build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Check these pics, I made an EK Semi CSQ design.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job Karlitos.


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Nice clean rig mate love it


Thank you very much


----------



## Thrasher1016

Ok, are these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16920/fan-1050/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-P_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_PWM_Fan_-_800_-_2000_RPM_Hot_Item.html?tl=g36c365s936&id=BgoxKSIc&mv_pc=16101#blank

Actually worth the money?

I mean if I'm going to go push-pull on a 240 and a 280 (have to find the 140 version), is that going to be $200 wasted, or what?
I'm looking for PWM fans for radiators that have black bodies and white blades...

Thanks - T


----------



## Jetskyer

Those fans are great, I'll be getting them in the future as well. However they are NOT made for pull. At higher rpm they'll develop a turbine whine, even with just the restriction of a fan filter, let alone a radiator.
The 140mm version does not exist yet but is in the pipeline, as well as an 180mm version, but they can't say how soon those will hit the market.

[edit] at aquatuning.us they go for $22.22 a pop, might save you quite a bit


----------



## Thrasher1016

What's a good fan for pull against the push the already-mentioned NB?

Also, what's the best way to control all this air? PWM splitter? What? Oh yeah, and the two pumps too...









Thanks - T


----------



## PedroC1999

Some nice Gentle Typhoon AP 15s will be good


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Some nice Gentle Typhoon AP 15s will be good


Gray blades.... can't add a 4th color... noooooooo...









Thanks - T


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Gray blades.... can't add a 4th color... noooooooo...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


paint them! lol


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> paint them! lol


Should have clarified earlier...
Most of what I'm doing in this build is already way over my head... so I'd rather not be the guy who finds himself in the sand pit when the void collapses!
Translation: I'm already going to have to try to hide one BRIGHT YELLOW Akasa rear vent fan as best I can, I don't want the same chore for the front flex bay and the extended top too...
Call me lazy, but I'm sticking to stuff I can buy straight out at first!

EDIT: And if I WERE painting anything, I'd just buy all 120mm and 140mm Akasa Vipers and go that route... DARN YOU, now I WANT to do that...









Thanks - T


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Should have clarified earlier...
> Most of what I'm doing in this build is already way over my head... so I'd rather not be the guy who finds himself in the sand pit when the void collapses!
> Translation: I'm already going to have to try to hide one BRIGHT YELLOW Akasa rear vent fan as best I can, I don't want the same chore for the front flex bay and the extended top too...
> Call me lazy, but I'm sticking to stuff I can buy straight out at first!
> 
> EDIT: And if I WERE painting anything, I'd just buy all 120mm and 140mm Akasa Vipers and go that route... DARN YOU, now I WANT to do that...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


Hm, painting them or throwing some electrical tape oriented length-ways would be a really simple solution.


----------



## Thrasher1016

I'm now looking at just getting all the 120mm and 140mm Akasa Vipers and Piranhas I want and paining the blades (the bodies are already black)...

Darn you all to heck.









EDIT: What is the best method available to control eight PWM fans and two D5 pumps on a mITX motherboard?

Thanks - T


----------



## Jetskyer

Unless you use the swiftech/frozencpu PWM enabled D5 or the USB controlled D5 from Aquaero you can't control the D5's of the motherboard.
For the fans you can easily get a PWM splitter that delivers power from a molex connection to your fans.


----------



## PedroC1999

^^^ This

http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cables&type_sub=Fan%20Cable%20Adapters&model=AK-CBFA03-45

One end connects to Molex for almost unlimited power, and the control line is still PWM


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Check these pics, I made an EK Semi CSQ design.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's nice!

here's my attempt at "improving" the CSQ design:


----------



## solara2xb

Here is my recent build with the EK CSQ Blocks as well.

My build Log: Here


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> That's nice!
> 
> here's my attempt at "improving" the CSQ design:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was thinking about doing this with my soon to be Backplate for my GTX 670 (once they come back in stock....) But how did you do it? is it just some paint that got wiped off after?


----------



## IvantheDugtrio

Hey guys I'm wondering if it's worth water cooling my HIS HD 7870 and EVGA GTX 660 in a single loop? My 7870 stock cooler is pretty crummy as the whole fan shroud is secured with just 4 screws around the GPU. I already broke the TIM seal just from taking it out/putting it back in several times. Currently temps at stock clocks max out at 70C with the fan running at 40%. The heat sink is also pretty cheap considering the bottom was milled and has those tell-tale circular ridges. The GTX 660 is assembled much better though it also tends to run warm at around 70C on full load at stock clocks. If I water cool them I may end up doing the whole rig with the 3570k so I can get some better overclocking headroom.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IvantheDugtrio*
> 
> Hey guys I'm wondering if it's worth water cooling my HIS HD 7870 and EVGA GTX 660 in a single loop? My 7870 stock cooler is pretty crummy as the whole fan shroud is secured with just 4 screws around the GPU. I already broke the TIM seal just from taking it out/putting it back in several times. Currently temps at stock clocks max out at 70C with the fan running at 40%. The heat sink is also pretty cheap considering the bottom was milled and has those tell-tale circular ridges. The GTX 660 is assembled much better though it also tends to run warm at around 70C on full load at stock clocks. If I water cool them I may end up doing the whole rig with the 3570k so I can get some better overclocking headroom.


Honestly if you going to spend the money to cool those cards I would say sell them and buy a nicer card before dropping 200$ on blocks for those cards. Just my personal opinion.

But to answer your questions graphics cards benefit more from watercooling the cpu's so the temperatures will be much better. For example GTX Titan on air non-overclocked idles around 37C and load over 45-50C under water I idle around 24C and load no higher then 35C even after a few hours. Your 3570k would also benefit from watercooling, the IVY bridge chips tend to run hot out of the box. If you would like to get into watercooling my recommendation still stands as selling those two cards and getting a better card that would be worth watercooling and some of the higher-end cards have a little bit better ref. and after market cooling on them.

GL
-freitz


----------



## superericla

Just updated my build.


----------



## PCModderMike

Your res is crooked?







Intentional?
Overall very nice.


----------



## superericla

Wow, it does look a tad crooked in the pictures. In person it looks very straight so I'm assuming it's caused by the camera.


----------



## phillyd

My HWLabs Black Ice GTS360 is coming tomorrow, gahh I can't wait.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> My HWLabs Black Ice GTS360 is coming tomorrow, gahh I can't wait.


You water cooling again?


----------



## Seredin

@super
Looks kind of cavernous


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> @super
> Looks kind of cavernous


I know! Since I got the pedestal it hasn't been full enough. I need another 420mm radiator and another reservoir or something in there, the space is too much.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I know! Since I got the pedestal it hasn't been full enough. I need another 420mm radiator and another reservoir or something in there, the space is too much.


Why not fill it with aquatic-themed stuffed animals?
Or put shelves in it and use it to store old comic books/action figures?
Or put a stereo system inside it, and program the computer to talk to you in an ominously childlike voice when it starts up?
O-or you could build a mITX computer and keep it inside this one!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You water cooling again?


Yeah Finally. gonna be a CPU loop for now.
DD Clear Tubing (Duralene later on)
Monsoon LED Plug angled fittings and compressions, in black
Danger Den M6 Nickel block
Black Ice GTS 360 in push/pull with Corsair Air SP fans
MCP-655 pump
FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V res


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Yeah Finally. gonna be a CPU loop for now.
> DD Clear Tubing (Duralene later on)
> Monsoon LED Plug angled fittings and compressions, in black
> Danger Den M6 Nickel block
> Black Ice GTS 360 in push/pull with Corsair Air SP fans
> MCP-655 pump
> FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V res


Cool. Yea I couldn't stay away myself. Too much fun!


----------



## macandy13

hey guys see for solid acrylic tubing with 13mm OD 9mm ID (2mm Wall) or Clear Acrylic Tube 16mm OD 12mm ID (2mm Wall) which type of fittings would i be able to use?

or can anyone suggest a solid tubing type?

cheers


----------



## LuckyNumber13

got my titan block today..
time to take apart, prime and airbrush blue








should look real nice with the rest of my build.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Yeah Finally. gonna be *a CPU loop for now.*
> DD Clear Tubing (Duralene later on)
> Monsoon LED Plug angled fittings and compressions, in black
> Danger Den M6 Nickel block
> Black Ice GTS 360 in push/pull with Corsair Air SP fans
> MCP-655 pump
> FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V res


i have been too long on this club to know that you are either lying to yourself or just in denial. How long is this _For Now_?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> got my titan block today..
> time to take apart, prime and airbrush blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should look real nice with the rest of my build.


Nice one, might sell my XSPC block once the Aquacomputer copper comes into stock, miss not being able to see the coolant in it.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i have been too long on this club to know that you are either lying to yourself or just in denial. How long is this _For Now_?


Hah whenever I can affford my GPU block It's gonna move to a full loop
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Cool. Yea I couldn't stay away myself. Too much fun!


Yeah I could only stay away for so long!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hah whenever I can affford my GPU block It's gonna move to a full loop


*a mystirious GPU water block suddenly falls into phillyd's coat pocket*


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Hah whenever I can affford my GPU block It's gonna move to a full loop


*a mystirious GPU water block suddenly falls into phillyd's coat pocket*







[/quote]
I'd die XD
Anyone have a spare EK-FC-7950 nickel laying around?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'd die XD
> Anyone have a spare EK-FC-7950 nickel laying around?


Nope, just an XSPC HD 7970 waterblock.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Nice one, might sell my XSPC block once the Aquacomputer copper comes into stock, miss not being able to see the coolant in it.


if I had coloured coolant i'd be right there with you on that one. the AC block looks real slick..


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'd die XD
> Anyone have a spare EK-FC-7950 nickel laying around?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, just an XSPC HD 7970 waterblock.
Click to expand...

...go on...


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ...go on...


I'm currently using it, but I've ordered a new water block and will likely not need it soon.


----------



## phillyd

Hm...maybe if i manage the money, and for the right price...


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solara2xb*
> 
> Here is my recent build with the EK CSQ Blocks as well.
> 
> My build Log: Here


That's a nice 6990. I wonder where you got it from?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've got two Sapphire 7970's with EK blocks (pre-CSQ) ready to sell to whoever want them!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Hah whenever I can affford my GPU block It's gonna move to a full loop
> 
> 
> 
> *a mystirious GPU water block suddenly falls into phillyd's coat pocket*
Click to expand...

I'd die XD
Anyone have a spare EK-FC-7950 nickel laying around?[/quote]
I do, never used it, as I had to buy a second one from PPC for my second card, and wound up getting two copper ones instead.
But it's for the reference 7950 with the 7950 pcb, is that what you have?


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've got two Sapphire 7970's with EK blocks (pre-CSQ) ready to sell to whoever want them!


PM sent


----------



## bleucharm28

ok, I added links to show bigger pictures.


----------



## solara2xb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> That's a nice 6990. I wonder where you got it from?


Hahahaha.. I wonder!!!










I spruced it up a bit with a new back plate.... The card and block went really well with my build..lolz


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I do, never used it, as I had to buy a second one from PPC for my second card, and wound up getting two copper ones instead.
> But it's for the reference 7950 with the 7950 pcb, is that what you have?


Yeah I have a reference 7950 PCB


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I do, never used it, as I had to buy a second one from PPC for my second card, and wound up getting two copper ones instead.
> But it's for the reference 7950 with the 7950 pcb, is that what you have?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I have a reference 7950 PCB
Click to expand...

I honestly haven't even listed it for sale yet, I've got so much other stuff that I won't likely use that I'm looking at putting it all on the marketplace.
The problem is that I'm in Canada so idk how that would work for you, but you are welcome to pm me if you're interested.

The shipping costs from PPC in Florida for me are pricey, but somehow that never stops me from buying more stuff there!


----------



## soulreaper05

First WC Setup.



















The top two reservoirs are T-lined into the dual bay to remove air from the main line.


----------



## TEZTOUZ

No offence, but this is just way way too messy, you're tubing is too long and no need for all those res' and a single loop would be so much more efficient and cleaner on your build. Good luck.


----------



## _REAPER_

I would have to agree with TEZTOUZ, you probably would want to shorten up the tubes and clean it up a bit


----------



## soulreaper05

I made my lines long so that i can pull out my reservoirs to add fluid... I can shorten them some now that i have the air out of the system. I have two loops purely for aesthetics, but i can see that it is kind of messy.


----------



## natsu2014

I need some advice with my temp and setup. Just bought new 120mm rad and I had to flush it 'cause it was dirty inside and the smell was... (still smells like sh...). The temps are lower but now I see no temp drop when I stop playing games of testing (I used to see immediate drop to 24-26C on gpus and 37-38 on cpu). Have no idea why the temperatures are now higher (30C gpus and 41-42 cpu)


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I need some advice with my temp and setup. Just bought new 120mm rad and I had to flush it 'cause it was dirty inside and the smell was... (still smells like sh...). The temps are lower but now I see no temp drop when I stop playing games of testing (I used to see immediate drop to 24-26C on gpus and 37-38 on cpu). Have no idea why the temperatures are now higher (30C gpus and 41-42 cpu)


Just to clarify how long are you waiting when you stop gaming? What other things do you have running? And is there anything else that you have change within the loop? Adding another rad. shows it helps when gaming but when not gaming you actually saw the temperatures increase?

Do you have a fan speed profile that maybe you need to modify when not gaming if you want the temperatures to decrease?


----------



## natsu2014

5-10 minutes when I stop gaiming. Tomb Raider 45C GPU's and 57C CPU with just 360 rad. 360 + 120 gives me 42C on one card and 44C on another card, CPU still 57-58. The results are at least weird. Nothing else has changed in my loop, just added 120mm rad. Just finished with prime and now idle temps are between 39-45C. I have my fans running at 800rpm (360) and 1500rpm (120) and haven't changed that because it gives me total silence and one more rad should help with cooling.
Still don't know why this 120 rad stinks form inside. Even after flushing


----------



## phillyd

Where do you guys get duralene tubing? 3/8" 5/8"


----------



## MiiX

Most of them gets it from here, I belive
http://sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu3id5o.html


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I made my lines long so that i can pull out my reservoirs to add fluid... I can shorten them some now that i have the air out of the system. I have two loops purely for aesthetics, but i can see that it is kind of messy.


i think that if you moved your pumps to the front half of the case you could eliminate a fair bit of tubing and clean its looks up a tad too


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I made my lines long so that i can pull out my reservoirs to add fluid... I can shorten them some now that i have the air out of the system. I have two loops purely for aesthetics, but i can see that it is kind of messy.


Two loops for aesthetics is the wrong reason for two loops. You get two loops when you run two CPUs and four GPUs, or something of the sort. OCN almost always recommends one loop, because then we don't have crazy tubing like we have with yours, it looks like you just made things difficult for yourself. You couldn't fit your pumps in the drive bays under your res?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Two loops for aesthetics is the wrong reason for two loops. You get two loops when you run two CPUs and four GPUs, or something of the sort. OCN almost always recommends one loop, because then we don't have crazy tubing like we have with yours, it looks like you just made things difficult for yourself. You couldn't fit your pumps in the drive bays under your res?


You never know each of us has our own taste as to what is pleasing to the eye, me personally I think it is a bit crowded, I am still trying to find out a way to get BNEG to fly over to my next duty station in the Philippines to do some copper tubing for me LOL


----------



## RingingEars

Got the new GPU blocks in. Now I just need to get some water in it...


----------



## MKHunt

Thought I had finished bleeding my RP-401x2.

I was wrong.


----------



## Julsmba

Hi guys, i'm adding my HD7950 to tje loop of the H220, i have a Black Ice SR1 120 Rad and 6 Bequiet SilentWings 2 ( i buy them for 5€ each







).
That's my first watercooling project, i had to driil the top of the Zalman Z11 Plus to fit the Radiator of the H220.
But my question is: am i doing this right with the tubing?
Please Help.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingingEars*
> 
> Got the new GPU blocks in. Now I just need to get some water in it...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm curious to know if orienting your left radiator like that will make bleeding your loop difficult. I haven't water tested my loop yet either, but I assumed that having the radiator oriented with the fittings on the bottom would be the best way. My fear would be that if you accidentally left air pockets in your loop that with the outlet from the radiator being on the top, you would be more likely to get cavitation of your pump and air pockets passing through your waterblocks.

Any comments?


----------



## pc-illiterate

looks good to me juls, if youre going cpu block and pumpless lol. i like coolerless cpu's, its so sexy its hot!
are you planning to add a res too ?

*EDIT* for seredin- actually the rads should have the ports at the top. its easier to bleed that way. and dont 'accidently' leave air in your loop. bleed that puppy wet. its pretty easy.


----------



## Julsmba

lol i haven't mounted it yet







but thanks for your help


----------



## RingingEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I'm curious to know if orienting your left radiator like that will make bleeding your loop difficult. I haven't water tested my loop yet either, but I assumed that having the radiator oriented with the fittings on the bottom would be the best way. My fear would be that if you accidentally left air pockets in your loop that with the outlet from the radiator being on the top, you would be more likely to get cavitation of your pump and air pockets passing through your waterblocks.
> 
> Any comments?


It hasn't been so far... This is my WCing loops third incarnation in this case. I just tilt it back a little, put the pump on 5 for a while and air comes right out.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingingEars*
> 
> It hasn't been so far... This is my WCing loops third incarnation in this case. I just tilt it back a little, put the pump on 5 for a while and air comes right out.


Good. I have mine oriented the same way currently, and it took some modding of the fan to which it's attached in order to get it to sit comfortably. I wouldn't want to go through that again just for bleeding purposes


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Two loops for aesthetics is the wrong reason for two loops. You get two loops when you run two CPUs and four GPUs, or something of the sort. OCN almost always recommends one loop, because then we don't have crazy tubing like we have with yours, it looks like you just made things difficult for yourself. You couldn't fit your pumps in the drive bays under your res?
> 
> 
> 
> You never know each of us has our own taste as to what is pleasing to the eye, me personally I think it is a bit crowded, I am still trying to find out a way to get BNEG to fly over to my next duty station in the Philippines to do some copper tubing for me LOL
Click to expand...

Its a shame you cant swing by the UK with your rig,it would only take me a couple of hours to plumb it for you.
You should give it a go yourself tho Reaper,its not like you dont have a clue already,you have a good eye.


----------



## phillyd

Wow Duralene is cheap. $16 for 15' shipped. I can't wait to get water cooling!


----------



## khemist

Tygon e1000 was £18 shipped for 6ft.


----------



## phillyd

wow. that's expensive.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Wow Duralene is cheap. $16 for 15' shipped. I can't wait to get water cooling!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Tygon e1000 was £18 shipped for 6ft.


But its not....


----------



## phillyd

I don't have the time or patience or tools for that. or money.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Wow Duralene is cheap. $16 for 15' shipped. I can't wait to get water cooling!


Haha, that's a good price. I recently paid about $35 to get 10 feet of Tygon Norprene shipped to me here in Canada. It's good stuff but I haven't figured out a good way to take the white writing off it yet for that stealth black look.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But its not....


What kind of fittings do you use for pipe ?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Here in Australia we pay $25 for PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 10ft and then $14 postage.

Copper is only slightly dearer around the $30-$40 mark. But it lasts for ever.

BUT my biggest downer to copper is the cost of all new fittings.


----------



## DrewWyber

My CPU block has two red LED's connected to it, but not in any of these pics. Does make it look a little nicer though, so just use your imagination lol!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> What kind of fittings do you use for pipe ?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrewWyber*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My CPU block has two red LED's connected to it, but not in any of these pics. Does make it look a little nicer though, so just use your imagination lol!


Nice work. I'm really starting to like those cases, at first I thought they were fugly.


----------



## ugod987

Very Hot water or blow dryer on low settings allows tight tubing to stretch over any size on and off. Dip the tubing in very hot water and install. No stress on any component.


----------



## DrewWyber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Nice work. I'm really starting to like those cases, at first I thought they were fugly.


I love it. It allows for so many customization options it's not even funny. I do have the thing jam packed full already though







I can barely fit another SSD on the other side. BTW it doesn't look as tidy on the other side, but who cares right? It's like Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde lol


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Nice work. I'm really starting to like those cases, *at first I thought they were fugly.*


I still do but they are fantastic cases to be sure.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But its not....


This. I got 10' of copper pipe for <$10. Cheaper and better looking (IMO).


----------



## kingchris

guys a flow and pump question, just fitted my old D5 and block into my dual build and it nice a quite on one side, im still running the pmp500 on the other and its way too loud, i have fitted the pump controller and its still noiey on low speed. ive got flow sensors and they show the D5 running 1000 rpm on the fan controller slower (cant remember the calc to work out the flow rate) now the question is it worth running 2 D5 in a dual block or just stick with the one D5

figures of the rpms
D5 full speed 2550 rpm .. unaudiable
PMP500 low speed 3450 rpm .. need ear plugs

temps are good, im folding so getting full load on the cpu and gpu.
PMP500 cpu 60; gpu 45; water 34; amb >20
D5 cpu 30; gpu 45; water 30; amb>20

any thoughts


----------



## wermad

One D5 should be able to handle both loops imho


----------



## 40.oz to freedom

I changed up my case and before installing everything in the case i washed out my rads with vinegar and water mix shaking it violently, i took apart my gpu and cpu block they looked fine, but after installing everything and a 4 hour leak test i just sat down to play some cs and i see this in my res.



Any ideas what this could be it is yellow/ goldish in color , im thinking it's just some flux that i shook loose and didn't get it all out of the rads.


----------



## IT Diva

A little bit of new stuff starting to come in for the Stretched Limo Edition build:











And some stuff for the 630's builds: wish the rads & fans would hurry up and get here!



Darlene


----------



## subsven

I've posted here before but I have recently added a thing or two to my rig worth mentioning.









RX480, mounted to the back of the cheap filing cabinet my case is sitting on.











Everything hooked up.



Literally just completed this about 15 mins ago. Need to do a little cable management and some clean up, but so far my idle and load temps have dropped about 10c on average. GPU's both hit BARELY 30c at load (still testing.) CPU so far has only hit 88c at 4.75 Ghz @ 1.32 vCore.


----------



## PCModderMike

All them BP goodies.









And them blinds.


----------



## strong island 1

Finally got my 2 titan's under water. one xxl block and one regular with the 3 way parallel bridge. I ran out of fittings so I ordered a couple more. I had to use barbs for now. I also have to figure out what to do with the tubing and wiring, I have to move that one tube that goes thru the wires.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> All them BP goodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And them blinds.


The less well publicized joys of living in a tropical paradise; Sahara dust, Montserrat ash, and humid salt air. . . . helped along by the fact that I often spray paint small stuff there.

I need to put "new workshop blinds" on my K-Mart list.









Darlene


----------



## sebar

You still have K-Mart, I have not seen a K-Mart in forever.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Finally got my 2 titan's under water. one xxl block and one regular with the 3 way parallel bridge. I ran out of fittings so I ordered a couple more. I had to use barbs for now. I also have to figure out what to do with the tubing and wiring, I have to move that one tube that goes thru the wires.


Ugh, such a sexy block.. making me want the titan more and more!


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A little bit of new stuff starting to come in for the Stretched Limo Edition build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some stuff for the 630's builds: wish the rads & fans would hurry up and get here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Lots o' Bitspower goodness there Darlene!


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> You still have K-Mart, I have not seen a K-Mart in forever.


kmarts one of the biggest retailers down here in Australia LoL

But on another note, this is just more reason for me to get my a$$ into gear for wc'ing. Pulled apart my 7970 sapphire edition as i thought the temps i was getting (hovering around 79 degrees C under load) was to high...and when i opened the card up i was shocked...

This big fat blob of thermal paste that was somewhat rock solid was covering everything....very dissapointed (i know it happens alot) , so i wiped it clean and put on a MUCH smaller amount of thermal paste and believe it or not temps have dropped by almost 4 degrees! .



Just a question though im using HWinfo for temps and am unsure as to which temp i should be paying attn to as the GPU thermal diode is 75 but it says the vram is 55C?? photo below to show you what i mean...



Im assuming the highest temp is what i should pay attention to?

--Cheers , Will


----------



## sebkow

anyone try and put a 480 radiator in front section of a sth10? Im thinking of putting 4 x 480 radiators .


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Stop showing your GTX 690, now I miss mine.


----------



## PCModderMike

LOL doubt you'll miss it much once you get a Titan....that's in the works eh?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

As soon as I get the dough yeppers!


----------



## PCModderMike

Win....block to go with it?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*


The block doesnt look half bad with the lighting









cant make up my mind if i wanna keep or sell my 690 to get a titan.. decisions decisions


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

It has to be water cooled no doubt, It would bother me too much to have an air cooled card in my build when it's a water cooled theme.

ps, I never get tired of seeing your GTX 690 and EK block!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> The block doesnt look half bad with the lighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant make up my mind if i wanna keep or sell my 690 to get a titan.. decisions decisions


LOL OK
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> It has to be water cooled no doubt, It would bother me too much to have an air cooled card in my build when it's a water cooled theme.
> 
> ps, I never get tired of seeing your GTX 690 and EK block!


OH yea, that's what I was thinking...just kind of curious which block you were leaning towards, there are so many great options for Titan.







And thanks....I have it sitting to my left on my desk, I don't get tired of seeing it either lol.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a shame you cant swing by the UK with your rig,it would only take me a couple of hours to plumb it for you.
> You should give it a go yourself tho Reaper,its not like you dont have a clue already,you have a good eye.


I am going to give it a try once I get home, but coming off my 10th deployment I have found that I do not have the same amount of patience LOL. the Copper would match my RADs quite nice


----------



## _REAPER_

My CPU block has two red LED's connected to it, but not in any of these pics. Does make it look a little nicer though, so just use your imagination lol![/quote]

Just me thinking out loud and I could be wrong but aren't you supposed to run the tube in the left of your top gpu and out the right to run proper parallel on the gpu?


----------



## _REAPER_

Double post sorry


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am going to give it a try once I get home, but coming off my 10th deployment I have found that I do not have the same amount of patience LOL. the Copper would match my RADs quite nice


Dude, copper pipes would go perfect with your rad! You gotta do it but don't do anything to the copper except polish it!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> The block doesnt look half bad with the lighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant make up my mind if i wanna keep or sell my 690 to get *a titan*.. decisions decisions


I take issue with the bolded text.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I take issue with the bolded text.


whats the issue?


----------



## MKHunt

Why not two?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Why not two?


i dont have 2k plus money for blocks at the moment, or otherwise they would already be purchased


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ugh my Scythe Kaze Master ii is been really irritating me lately, 2 of 4 headers keep turning off, the second head is the worst, i think im just going to remove it tomorrow, so annoying!


----------



## DonPablo83

Anyone usin 140mm fans on their radiators? Trying to decide between noiseblockers vs noctua fans. Going for a quiet setup. Any suggestions?


----------



## macandy13

Does anyone know if regular fittings can be used with acrylic tubing or do you need a certain type of fitting?


----------



## DonPablo83

Anyone usin 140mm fans on their radiators? Trying to decide between noiseblockers vs noctua fans. Going for a quiet setup. Any suggestions?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Does anyone know if regular fittings can be used with acrylic tubing or do you need a certain type of fitting?


Not sure what you mean by "regular fittings", but these are what you see most often, (actually, pretty much exclusively) with acrylic tubing:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12746/ex-tub-816/Bitspower_G14_Silver_Shining_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-WTP-C68.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10741/ex-tub-666/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Silver_Shining_BP-WTP-C47.html

There are different colors available, but the Bitspower multi link adapters are what's used.

Now to be sure, they are made for 12mm OD tubing, and seeing as you're in the metric part of the world, should not be an issue.

Here, where everything is in imperial units, like inches, we have to either modify the fitting to accept the slightly larger diameter 1/2" tubing, or slightly reduce the tubing diameter where it goes into the fitting.

How much extra work you'll have to do depends on the exact tubing size you get.

Bitspower crystal link tubes are 12mm OD by 10mm ID, so they have a 1mm wall thickness.

Some if not most of the metric tubing I've seen advertised is 12mm OD by 8mm ID.

While it may not make much difference in a rig built more for aesthetics than overclocking and performance, I'd hesitate to use that small an ID tube in a multi GPU hi performance build.

But I'm just an old woman, so what could I know.

Darlene


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure what you mean by "regular fittings", but these are what you see most often, (actually, pretty much exclusively) with acrylic tubing:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12746/ex-tub-816/Bitspower_G14_Silver_Shining_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-WTP-C68.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10741/ex-tub-666/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Silver_Shining_BP-WTP-C47.html
> 
> There are different colors available, but the Bitspower multi link adapters are what's used.
> 
> Now to be sure, they are made for 12mm OD tubing, and seeing as you're in the metric part of the world, should not be an issue.
> 
> Here, where everything is in imperial units, like inches, we have to either modify the fitting to accept the slightly larger diameter 1/2" tubing, or slightly reduce the tubing diameter where it goes into the fitting.
> 
> How much extra work you'll have to do depends on the exact tubing size you get.
> 
> Bitspower crystal link tubes are 12mm OD by 10mm ID, so they have a 1mm wall thickness.
> 
> Some if not most of the metric tubing I've seen advertised is 12mm OD by 8mm ID.
> 
> While it may not make much difference in a rig built more for aesthetics than overclocking and performance, I'd hesitate to use that small an ID tube in a multi GPU hi performance build.
> 
> But I'm just an old woman, so what could I know.
> 
> Darlene


That's great thanks for clearing that up for me









Think I saw some 12OD, 10ID a little while ago, better go hunt it down again :L

Thanks again


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure what you mean by "regular fittings", but these are what you see most often, (actually, pretty much exclusively) with acrylic tubing:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12746/ex-tub-816/Bitspower_G14_Silver_Shining_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-WTP-C68.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10741/ex-tub-666/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Silver_Shining_BP-WTP-C47.html
> 
> There are different colors available, but the Bitspower multi link adapters are what's used.
> 
> Now to be sure, they are made for 12mm OD tubing, and seeing as you're in the metric part of the world, should not be an issue.
> 
> Here, where everything is in imperial units, like inches, we have to either modify the fitting to accept the slightly larger diameter 1/2" tubing, or slightly reduce the tubing diameter where it goes into the fitting.
> 
> How much extra work you'll have to do depends on the exact tubing size you get.
> 
> Bitspower crystal link tubes are 12mm OD by 10mm ID, so they have a 1mm wall thickness.
> 
> Some if not most of the metric tubing I've seen advertised is 12mm OD by 8mm ID.
> 
> While it may not make much difference in a rig built more for aesthetics than overclocking and performance, I'd hesitate to use that small an ID tube in a multi GPU hi performance build.
> 
> But I'm just an old woman, so what could I know.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> That's great thanks for clearing that up for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I saw some 12OD, 10ID a little while ago, better go hunt it down again :L
> 
> Thanks again
Click to expand...

If you search for pipebending 101,there is a list of fittings and methods of bending copper and acrylic tube.

There is a whole range of pushfit available in addition to the c47 fittings.


----------



## macandy13

Great, ill go have a read


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But I'm just an old woman, so what could I know.
> 
> Darlene


I know right? If only those were brains...


----------



## Ash2097




----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those white led's make it all look so *SHINY!* Great job there.


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Those white led's make it all look so *SHINY!* Great job there.


Thanks, first attempt at watercooling


----------



## PwndN00b

So while I was shopping, I came across this...

New res anyone?


----------



## minicooper1

some photos


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> Anyone usin 140mm fans on their radiators? Trying to decide between noiseblockers vs noctua fans. Going for a quiet setup. Any suggestions?


I am one of the few (it would seem) who prefers 140mm radiators over their 120mm counterparts, but I don't use Noctua or Noiseblocker fans... Personally, I go with Bgears Blasters 140mm, as they are inexpensive ($11/ea), have dual-ball-bearing motors (can be mounted in any orientation + reliable), undervolt very well (fan controller is a good idea), and they move a TON of air while also having more static pressure than just about any other 140x25mm fan. Rated specs are 103CFM and 3.5mmH2O at 1800rpm, and in push-pull on an EX420 (19 split-fins-per-inch = 38 fins per inch between tubes) they perform extremely well.

If I had to choose, though, I'd go with the Noiseblocker PK-3 fans, either in PWM or the high speed models (as even their high-speed fans are very quiet).


----------



## DrewWyber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 
> 
> My CPU block has two red LED's connected to it, but not in any of these pics. Does make it look a little nicer though, so just use your imagination lol!


Just me thinking out loud and I could be wrong but aren't you supposed to run the tube in the left of your top gpu and out the right to run proper parallel on the gpu?[/quote]
Hmm I guess I'm confused by what your asking? I have another rad on the other side if that makes any sense, and the loop is working fantastically w/ both GPU temps never exceeding 55C under load.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrewWyber*
> 
> Hmm I guess I'm confused by what your asking? I have another rad on the other side if that makes any sense, and the loop is working fantastically w/ both GPU temps never exceeding 55C under load.


As per picture...

The 'out' is mounted opposite of the 'in' on the bridge. The design would then *force* liquid around both gpu blocks. In your configuration, the liquid is more passive through the gpu blocks because you've give a direct route for the liquid to enter, then exit, the bridge.
I'd bet you'd see a 5-10c drop in temps if you moved either port on your bridge. My gpu's never go above 45c under load.


----------



## Jetskyer

If the bridge somehow is set up in series the configuration is right though. But I don't know if that is possible with the bridges of EK so you probably are right that the liquid isn't even flowing through the blocks (still amazing that the temps are lower than on air







)


----------



## GhostDog99

Got some new pictures for you guys just
Finish building a budget gaming PC for my
Brother


[/IMG]


----------



## phillyd

Hardware Labs Black Ice GTS360 in push/pull with Corsair Air SP120
More *here*


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> Hardware Labs Black Ice GTS360 in push/pull with Corsair Air SP120
> More *here*


are those the Quiet or the Performance fans?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> are those the Quiet or the Performance fans?


Quiet


----------



## Qu1ckset

Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Dual
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_912&products_id=36994

What would the cooling performance be if compared to 120mm rads ? a 480?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Dual
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_912&products_id=36994
> 
> What would the cooling performance be if compared to 120mm rads ? a 480?


Assuming the fans are pushing the same amount of air through, and the FPI, material and thickness are the same, the 2x180 would outdo the 4x120


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Dual
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_912&products_id=36994
> 
> What would the cooling performance be if compared to 120mm rads ? a 480?
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming the fans are pushing the same amount of air through, and the FPI, material and thickness are the same, the 2x180 would outdo the 4x120
Click to expand...

No,it wont.

2x180=360
4x120=480

What led you think otherwise?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,it wont.
> 2x180=360
> 4x120=480
> What led you think otherwise?


uhh...
what.
the length of a 480 is greater, but the surface area of a 2x180 would be more
180mm x 360mm = 64800mm^2
120mm x 480mm = 57600mm^2


----------



## TwentyCent




----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Got some new pictures for you guys just
> Finish building a budget gaming PC for my
> Brother
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]


Very nice


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> uhh...
> what.
> the length of a 480 is greater, but the surface area of a 2x180 would be more
> 180mm x 360mm = 64800mm^2
> 120mm x 480mm = 57600mm^2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,it wont.
> 
> 2x180=360
> 4x120=480
> 
> What led you think otherwise?


you two are confusing me.. , so a 2x180mm rad is equal or better? or is it worse?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> you two are confusing me.. , so a 2x180mm rad is equal or better? or is it worse?


It has the potential to be better, and is better if the fans on both radiators have the same static pressure and airflow and both radiators are the same thickness and have the same fpi.


----------



## TwentyCent

This.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It has the potential to be better, and is better if the fans on both radiators have the same static pressure and airflow and both radiators are the same thickness and have the same fpi.


Well my current rads are:
Black Ice® GT Stealth 240 (29.60mm thick, and 30 FPI with AP15s in push/pull)
Black Ice® GTX Gen Two Xtreme 240 (54mm thick, and 20 FPI with AP15s in push/pull)

And the rad id switch to:
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 180mm Dual (45mm thick, can't find info on FPI, and id be using silverstones AP181s in push/pull *unless there's a better fan i can buy*)

better or worse....


----------



## phillyd

yep the 2x180 is better.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Better late than never, but it's finally ready:






I know this is a bit off the motherboard block, but 7990 reference block coming soon? Like before the 22nd of April?








Kinda got excited after I read this


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> I know this is a bit off the motherboard block, but 7990 reference block coming soon? Like before the 22nd of April?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda got excited after I read this


The 7990 is Very similar to the S10000 by AMD and EK just announced that they made a block for the S10000 so it is very likely that that block will either fit the 7990 or they are working on one for the 7990.

*link*

Jeffinslaw


----------



## TheSurroundGamr

*Upgrade complete!*








I am now running three GTX 670s in 3-Way SLI cooled by three XSPC Razor GTX670 water blocks. I had to do some heavy modding in order to get them to fit, though! The stupid double-stacked DVI slot was getting in the way of the block, so, I had to Dremel it off:









At first, I was going to scrap the project and get new GPUs, I even browsed to see if Titans were in stock. Then, I decided to take my anger out on the blocks via the Dremel, haha! If the blocks wouldn't fit, I would MAKE them fit! The result:


















I wrapped the 670s in an anti-static bag to protect them from sparks and debris flying all over the place:









Not pretty. Not pretty at all, yet, it worked. Blocks fitted:









More over at the build log!


----------



## asakurahao

does anyone know the name of this red coolant? it looks amazing


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> 
> 
> does anyone know the name of this red coolant? it looks amazing


I'm gonna poke a guess that it's EK's blood red coolant.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSurroundGamr*
> 
> Not pretty. Not pretty at all, yet, it worked. Blocks fitted:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


actually turned out really good looking. shouldn't affect the build aesthetics.


----------



## TheSurroundGamr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> actually turned out really good looking. shouldn't affect the build aesthetics.


Affirmative, it also saved me $1300 in GPUs and Waterblocks.


----------



## phillyd

well once you sold the others, ~$250


----------



## TheSurroundGamr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> well once you sold the others, ~$250


That's enough money to eat MCDonald's for a week.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSurroundGamr*
> 
> That's enough money to eat MCDonald's for a week.


yeah that's enough money to pay me for a month. and have 10 mcdonalds meals left over


----------



## Unit789

Hi guys I completed my (first) build in a Cooler Master Storm enforcer about 3 weeks back and I want to consider adding watercooling to it but I dont know squat about it and this seems like the place to ask. What do I need to start, how hard is it to maintain and about what will it cost me to get an ok cooling system, and how much difference will I see in temps? I dont think Ill do any custom loops ( I think thats what somebody called them) or anything like that just something like a premade "loop" I guess where I just have to slap it on and put in the coolant which im sure none are that easy to do. I have an Asrock extreme6 and a 3570k oced to 4ghz with a CM Hyper 212 evo an temps sometimes get up to 62c and I want to take it farther but Im conscerned about temps. Thanks







I clicked the submit button like 10mins ago so if two or three of these pop up ill try to delete them.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> The block doesnt look half bad with the lighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant make up my mind if i wanna keep or sell my 690 to get a titan.. decisions decisions


I wasn't happy w/ my Titan. Went back to GTX680 SLI tonight.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wasn't happy w/ my Titan. Went back to GTX680 SLI tonight.


good. Titan is overrated/overpriced.


----------



## MKHunt

What are everyone's favorite matte black fan controllers? I purchased a bitfenix Hydra Pro because of its simple design, but all the sliders are constantly falling off and they haven't responded to my email from ~2 weeks ago. Seriously, I have completed a Gigabyte RMA in the time they haven't responded to my support inquiry.


----------



## IT Diva

The best part of lots of boxes of new stuff is putting it together to make something more than the sum of its parts.

This is all the parts I needed, plus a couple extras to have on hand, to build out the dual pump / dual res assemblies for the stretched build.

I needed a custom length res tube, ~120mm, since 150mm was about an inch too tall, and 80mm would be too short, so I ended up coupling an 80 and a 40 for each one.

I took the extra time and effort to sand and polish all the crystal Tee's, and it really pays off when you see them up close.

I'm pretty happy with how they came out, and I've got them all running to see how they do after some run time.

Started this morning with this pile of parts:





Here's the first one done and leak testing:



Here's the double assembly done and testing:



And here's all three in test mode:



Hope you like it,

Darlene


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I am one of the few (it would seem) who prefers 140mm radiators over their 120mm counterparts, but I don't use Noctua or Noiseblocker fans... Personally, I go with Bgears Blasters 140mm, as they are inexpensive ($11/ea), have dual-ball-bearing motors (can be mounted in any orientation + reliable), undervolt very well (fan controller is a good idea), and they move a TON of air while also having more static pressure than just about any other 140x25mm fan. Rated specs are 103CFM and 3.5mmH2O at 1800rpm, and in push-pull on an EX420 (19 split-fins-per-inch = 38 fins per inch between tubes) they perform extremely well.
> 
> If I had to choose, though, I'd go with the Noiseblocker PK-3 fans, either in PWM or the high speed models (as even their high-speed fans are very quiet).


Thanks for the advice. 140mm rads seem a little more suited to my required specs from the reviews ive read regarding cooling and acoustics. Will do some reading about these fans. Cheers.


----------



## phillyd

I like the Reeven RFC-01 but it isn't simple. NZXT Sentry Mix is good but has issues with some fans. Maybe a Lamptron FC9


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The best part of lots of boxes of new stuff is putting it together to make something more than the sum of its parts.
> 
> This is all the parts I needed, plus a couple extras to have on hand, to build out the dual pump / dual res assemblies for the stretched build.
> 
> I needed a custom length res tube, ~120mm, since 150mm was about an inch too tall, and 80mm would be too short, so I ended up coupling an 80 and a 40 for each one.
> 
> I'm pretty happy with how they came out, and I've got them all running to see how they do after some run time.
> 
> Started this morning with this pile of parts:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the first one done and leak testing:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the double assembly done and testing:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's all three in test mode:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it,
> 
> Darlene


It's like a bowling ball factory! JK, looks fab. I think your case is wider than my TV.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

May I ask what the point of the stretch limo build is, other than just being awesome?


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unit789*
> 
> Hi guys I completed my (first) build in a Cooler Master Storm enforcer about 3 weeks back and I want to consider adding watercooling to it but I dont know squat about it and this seems like the place to ask. What do I need to start, how hard is it to maintain and about what will it cost me to get an ok cooling system, and how much difference will I see in temps? I dont think Ill do any custom loops ( I think thats what somebody called them) or anything like that just something like a premade "loop" I guess where I just have to slap it on and put in the coolant which im sure none are that easy to do. I have an Asrock extreme6 and a 3570k oced to 4ghz with a CM Hyper 212 evo an temps sometimes get up to 62c and I want to take it farther but Im conscerned about temps. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clicked the submit button like 10mins ago so if two or three of these pop up ill try to delete them.


You have several choices here, it all depends on what you want and what your budget is. Here are some questions that you will need to ask yourself:

1- You want to watercool your CPU only, or your GPU also?
2- What is your budget?

If you don't want to go custom, you have pretty much 2 choices: you either get the Corsair Hxx variations, or kits. XSPC, EK and Swiftech make pretty decent kits. The Swiftech H220 is a nice hybrid.

Moreover, you have to check the radiator space you have in your case. I'm pretty sure you can put a 240 plus 2 fans inside your case, in the top. Plus you have space for 120 in the rear, all of this without modding. Depends on what you want. I just checked quickly, so have a look around and see what other Enforcer owners have done with it









In case you want to watercool your GPU too, you could always do so with a corsair H60 for example. You might want to look into this here, if this is something you'd consider.

With the parts available today, I'd say a loop is pretty simple to put together, as long as you've informed yourself.

I suggest you visit the following sites to have an idea of what's available on the market, at what price:
- Performance PCs
- FrozenCPU

And some inspiration:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




check http://www.million-dollar-pc.com











Have fun!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> May I ask what the point of the stretch limo build is, other than just being awesome?


I think it's well known the majority of the builds around OCN really only have the point of fulfilling the builders dreams and trying to be awesome, in most importantly their eyes.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I was more wondering if it was a show build, client build, or a "just because I can" build? I just can't imagine a scenario where you would ever need 6 D5's and three loops but then again I'm no where near as smart as Darlene...


----------



## PCModderMike

Good point....I imagine it would make an awesome show piece... thing is, once it's fully built and filled, I doubt that thing will be moving anywhere!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Without a forklift, yeah you're right!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> May I ask what the point of the stretch limo build is, other than just being awesome?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think it's well known the majority of the builds around OCN really only have the point of fulfilling the builders dreams and trying to be awesome, in most importantly their eyes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, I was more wondering if it was a show build, client build, or a "just because I can" build? I just can't imagine a scenario where you would ever need 6 D5's and three loops but then again I'm no where near as smart as Darlene...


It's a fair question, and Mike hit it pretty close.

I think all of us that build or game, have a desire to have their vision of the ultimate machine.

We know that for hi-res / multi screen / eyefinity gaming, you have to have at least 3 and preferably 4 of the top GPU's, and if you're spending over $2K on GPU's before you even look at blocks, it doesn't make sense to have less than the latest and greatest in the CPU and motherboard departments.

Then of course you have to cool it all, which takes a lot of rad, fan, and plumbing space.

Typically, most of the mega builds are in big boxy cases like MM, CL, LD, etc. . . . because they have room for enough rads and fans to handle an overclocked quad GPU setup.

While I appreciate the quality of those cases, I don't like the boxy, industrial, appliance look.

I do like the original Phantom, with its longer than high aspect ratio, I like it a lot.

I decided for my ultimate machine, to build a custom phantom, with the look I like, as much rad space as the mini-fridge cases to support quadfire, and a chance to flex my engineering talents to add some one of a kind eye candy in the res/pump setups, the acrylic gullwing side panel, and the custom electronics work.

Almost anyone with a fair amount of experience can assemble a hi end gaming machine,

My Stretched Limo Edition is about as custom and unique as a build can get, and it works for me, works very well indeed.

But as always, YMMV

Darlene


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

So a super awesome personal rig which has plenty of space while not needing a refrigerator-like Case Labs? Awesome (though I personally would've probably stretched the 600T instead)!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Good point....I imagine it would make an awesome show piece... thing is, once it's fully built and filled, I doubt that thing will be moving anywhere!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Without a forklift, yeah you're right!


And just how many LAN parties do you see 10 series CaseLabs or MM Ascension cases at!

Why would you assume that this is any heavier than a generic quad gpu, watercooled, mini-fridge case build?

Darlene


----------



## Servos

http://s589.photobucket.com/user/dukenukem_photo/media/IMG_20130414_001702.jpg.html

http://s589.photobucket.com/user/dukenukem_photo/media/IMG_20130414_001903.jpg.html

Sorry for img quality, cell phone pic.
x79 build, got a RIVE arriving monday, the rest by the end of the month.

Its a rack mount server all chopped up in my basement.
Not really a gamer, but use it for maple, some chemical sims, and vm's for the tv's around the house.


----------



## Egameman

my little rig =)


----------



## AaronMa

Anyone know if there are any z77x UD3H mobo waterblocks? (NB/SB 1 pc preferably)
If not, any that can fit the board well but made for another model?

I know most of the time they arent necessary.. but, this is OCN.. I NEED ONE!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,it wont.
> 2x180=360
> 4x120=480
> What led you think otherwise?
> 
> 
> 
> uhh...
> what.
> the length of a 480 is greater, but the surface area of a 2x180 would be more
> 180mm x 360mm = 64800mm^2
> 120mm x 480mm = 57600mm^2
Click to expand...

Yeah,Maths after smoking white rhino all day is not my strong point......you are correct.


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ...
> 
> Here's the first one done and leak testing:
> 
> ...
> 
> Hope you like it,
> 
> Darlene


Hi Darlene,

Your Limo project has certainly started to become more and more beautiful every day









Still, please allow me to express a concern of mine when i saw that you use INS-FM18 flowmeter, like i do. You have placed it vertically and as per koolance forum (refer mostly to ins-fm17) horizontal position gives more reliable-higher readings while vertical placement for some people gives erratical readings or at the best just lower readings than actual flow.

Perhaps you would like to have a look at this...

Keep up the good job


----------



## d3vour3r

just moved my pc so i can show it off more


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> As per picture...
> 
> The 'out' is mounted opposite of the 'in' on the bridge. The design would then *force* liquid around both gpu blocks. In your configuration, the liquid is more passive through the gpu blocks because you've give a direct route for the liquid to enter, then exit, the bridge.
> I'd bet you'd see a 5-10c drop in temps if you moved either port on your bridge. My gpu's never go above 45c under load.


Thank you for the pic and the clarification


----------



## _REAPER_

Hope you like it,

Darlene[/quote]

I think I am in love.... LOL great work


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it,
> 
> Darlene


I think I am in love.... LOL great work[/quote]



It's so...so..so.pretty...


----------



## Unit789

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> You have several choices here, it all depends on what you want and what your budget is. Here are some questions that you will need to ask yourself:
> 
> 1- You want to watercool your CPU only, or your GPU also?
> 2- What is your budget?
> 
> If you don't want to go custom, you have pretty much 2 choices: you either get the Corsair Hxx variations, or kits. XSPC, EK and Swiftech make pretty decent kits. The Swiftech H220 is a nice hybrid.
> 
> Moreover, you have to check the radiator space you have in your case. I'm pretty sure you can put a 240 plus 2 fans inside your case, in the top. Plus you have space for 120 in the rear, all of this without modding. Depends on what you want. I just checked quickly, so have a look around and see what other Enforcer owners have done with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you want to watercool your GPU too, you could always do so with a corsair H60 for example. You might want to look into this here, if this is something you'd consider.
> 
> With the parts available today, I'd say a loop is pretty simple to put together, as long as you've informed yourself.
> 
> I suggest you visit the following sites to have an idea of what's available on the market, at what price:
> - Performance PCs
> - FrozenCPU
> 
> And some inspiration:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check http://www.million-dollar-pc.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun!


Ok thanks I will take everything you said into consideration!


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> good. Titan is overrated/overpriced.


I don't know. I actually just moved from a titan to a pair of 680s and I'm kind of regretting the move. I agree that its over priced but I really do feel that its a bit underrated. At 1440p there aren't many games where I can all of a sudden pump higher settings on the 680s. Yeah, in Borderlands 2 I can use 4xSGSSAA now but I can't use Physx on high like I did with the Titan. The 680s seem to take a much larger hit in physx. Tomb Raider seems to have run better on the Titan, due to direct compute I would imagine. With AMD strengthening their gaming evolved direct compute may matter more and more in the future. GTA4 is smoother on the Titan.

So idk. They both seem to have their pros and cons.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> I don't know. I actually just moved from a titan to a pair of 680s and I'm kind of regretting the move. I agree that its over priced but I really do feel that its a bit underrated. At 1440p there aren't many games where I can all of a sudden pump higher settings on the 680s. Yeah, in Borderlands 2 I can use 4xSGSSAA now but I can't use Physx on high like I did with the Titan. The 680s seem to take a much larger hit in physx. Tomb Raider seems to have run better on the Titan, due to direct compute I would imagine. With AMD strengthening their gaming evolved direct compute may matter more and more in the future. GTA4 is smoother on the Titan.
> 
> So idk. They both seem to have their pros and cons.


How come you didn't try out a pair of 7970s?


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> I don't know. I actually just moved from a titan to a pair of 680s and I'm kind of regretting the move. I agree that its over priced but I really do feel that its a bit underrated. At 1440p there aren't many games where I can all of a sudden pump higher settings on the 680s. Yeah, in Borderlands 2 I can use 4xSGSSAA now but I can't use Physx on high like I did with the Titan. The 680s seem to take a much larger hit in physx. Tomb Raider seems to have run better on the Titan, due to direct compute I would imagine. With AMD strengthening their gaming evolved direct compute may matter more and more in the future. GTA4 is smoother on the Titan.
> 
> So idk. They both seem to have their pros and cons.


Why the move? Aside from the obvious over pricing, I dont see how a 680 can best a titan?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> Why the move? Aside from the obvious over pricing, I dont see how a 680 can best a titan?


Well seeing how my GTX690 is faster then the titan in pumping out more fps, the 680 SLI would be able to get even higher fps... but obvously the 680 SLI and 690 dont have the compute feature or sport 6GB Vram..

So the 680 SLI can best the Titan in fps...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That's why you just get two Titans!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's why you just get two Titans!


For the more than 4 680's?

I would have the Titans but they are definitely not worth the money....

These cards are only worth it for proper work use,not games,a cut down tesla is well worth it in that respect.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> I'm gonna poke a guess that it's EK's blood red coolant.


Yeah, that is the EK Blood Red premixed as its what I'm using in my loop


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For the more than 4 680's?
> 
> I would have the Titans but they are definitely not worth the money....
> 
> These cards are only worth it for proper work use,not games,a cut down tesla is well worth it in that respect.


gotcha


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it,
> 
> Darlene


I think I am in love.... LOL great work[/quote]

I second this greatly


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For the more than 4 680's?
> 
> I would have the Titans but they are definitely not worth the money....
> 
> These cards are only worth it for proper work use,not games,a cut down tesla is well worth it in that respect.


i agree. they are aggressively overpriced


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,Maths after smoking white rhino all day is not my strong point......you are correct.


Oou, BNeg's got some tasty exotic "herbs" over there in London eh?


----------



## MKHunt

Too bad they're rubbish for cooking.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,Maths after smoking white rhino all day is not my strong point......you are correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oou, BNeg's got some tasty exotic "herbs" over there in London eh?
Click to expand...











My clock is stuck at 4:20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Too bad they're rubbish for cooking.


You are doing it wrong.


----------



## InsideJob

This is not necessarily true

However this is horribly off topic and should probably cease this conversation now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> This is not necessarily true
> 
> However this is horribly off topic and should probably cease this conversation now


Its for the best
Back to the pronz then.....


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And just how many LAN parties do you see 10 series CaseLabs or MM Ascension cases at!
> 
> Why would you assume that this is any heavier than a generic quad gpu, watercooled, mini-fridge case build?
> 
> Darlene


I just have to say that you are awesome. I love your attitude and the way you approach things. I also really appreciate the help and input you gave me the other day. Keep rockin'!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Good point....I imagine it would make an awesome show piece... thing is, once it's fully built and filled, I doubt that thing will be moving anywhere!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Without a forklift, yeah you're right!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And just how many LAN parties do you see 10 series CaseLabs or MM Ascension cases at!
> 
> Why would you assume that this is any heavier than a generic quad gpu, watercooled, mini-fridge case build?
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I have seen a few CL cases at LANs.
I wouldnt want to move that case once full,it will flex quite badly i should imagine unless it has stiffening ribs.


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Bundy, is that modders mesh or some kind of vinyl wrap on everything? Beautiful build!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just updated my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All I can think about is how I would love a cappuccino when I look at this rig!







(Does it make cappucinos?)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> *Two loops for aesthetics is the wrong reason for two loops.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You get two loops when you run two CPUs and four GPUs, or something of the sort. OCN almost always recommends one loop, because then we don't have crazy tubing like we have with yours, it looks like you just made things difficult for yourself. You couldn't fit your pumps in the drive bays under your res?


Don't be dismayed by this comment soulreaper05 - two loops for aesthetic reasons is perfectly normal around here - this is OCN after all! I mean look at this entire thread - the life and soul of the water cooling thread is all about aesthetics! Now, opinions will & do vary on what is aesthetically pleasing - but I don't think you can ever say aesthetics are the wrong reason for doing anything in this venue. I mean hell, Bundy just put some bitspower blocks on a couple of HDDs a few weeks back - do you think his reasoning was based on attaining cooler HDDs or purely aesthetics? Besides, now that you have the water cooling bug - you'll be changing those loops around more than you care to think about right now.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A little bit of new stuff starting to come in for the Stretched Limo Edition build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some stuff for the 630's builds: wish the rads & fans would hurry up and get here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


OMGoodness! OMGoodness! I cannot wait to see that project completed! You da bomb D! I'm so jelly!

Darlene, do you have a money oak in the back yard? If so, I want a sapling please...


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> just moved my pc so i can show it off more


My god, a water cooled Antec 1100. such a rare species







(could you care giving us a few more internal pics?)

Does anyone have any recommendation or any sort of input on using the Primochil CTR (compression tube res) frosted version with red coolant? (have been considering it ever since these came out since the frosted EK blocks look so good with dyed coolant)

Also, does anyone have any suggestions on what RAM color scheme to use with the Maximus V Formula in a black with red accents themed lop? (not very fond of the 4x red DIMM setup but oppositely not sold on the 2x black + 2x red)


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Also, does anyone have any suggestions on what RAM color scheme to use with the Maximus V Formula in a black with red accents themed lop? (not very fond of the 4x red DIMM setup but oppositely not sold on the 2x black + 2x red)


These


----------



## nicoliani

Used to run with Noctua fans, thought they where quiet, but then I changed to Be Quiet.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Well seeing how my GTX690 is faster then the titan in pumping out more fps, the 680 SLI would be able to get even higher fps... but obvously the 680 SLI and 690 dont have the compute feature or sport 6GB Vram..
> 
> So the 680 SLI can best the Titan in fps...


Have you personally tried a Titan? The difference is much smaller than you might think in most games. A single card is generally a little smoother at similar framerates too. I don't know if the hardware frame metering on the 690 helps to balance that out. Even then you still have to rely on sli scaling.

I still think that Titan is better than most people give it credit for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> How come you didn't try out a pair of 7970s?


I had 7950 tri-fire, the microstutter is a killer on my 120hz catleap. With a 60hz 1440p display they worked great with a framerate cap though.


----------



## bundymania

*Monsoon Video Presentation:*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2b6OLjKlLZM


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Monsoon Video Presentation:*
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2b6OLjKlLZM


Quite the diverse selection there.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> *2 x kryographics for GTX TITAN acrylic glass edition, nickel plated version* - 92,35 EUR ea.
> 
> Sub-Total: 184,70 EUR
> Shipping: 108,90 EUR (UPS)
> 1,70% Fee: 3,14 EUR
> 
> Total: 296,74 EUR


So when are these going to be available in North America so I don't have to pay $400 cnd to get them?


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Servos*
> 
> Sorry for img quality, cell phone pic.
> x79 build, got a RIVE arriving monday, the rest by the end of the month.
> 
> Its a rack mount server all chopped up in my basement.
> Not really a gamer, but use it for maple, some chemical sims, and vm's for the tv's around the house.


Nice! Of course I've seen it in person...


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> My god, a water cooled Antec 1100. such a rare species
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (could you care giving us a few more internal pics?)


Yeh but im pretty sure you've seen them as you have commented a few times in my build thread, which is in my sig









But i will take some tonight when i get home from work.


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Bundy, is that modders mesh or some kind of vinyl wrap on everything? Beautiful build!
> All I can think about is how I would love a cappuccino when I look at this rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Does it make cappucinos?)
> Don't be dismayed by this comment soulreaper05 - two loops for aesthetic reasons is perfectly normal around here - this is OCN after all! I mean look at this entire thread - the life and soul of the water cooling thread is all about aesthetics! Now, opinions will & do vary on what is aesthetically pleasing - but I don't think you can ever say aesthetics are the wrong reason for doing anything in this venue. I mean hell, Bundy just put some bitspower blocks on a couple of HDDs a few weeks back - do you think his reasoning was based on attaining cooler HDDs or purely aesthetics? Besides, now that you have the water cooling bug - you'll be changing those loops around more than you care to think about right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OMGoodness! OMGoodness! I cannot wait to see that project completed! You da bomb D! I'm so jelly!
> 
> Darlene, do you have a money oak in the back yard? If so, I want a sapling please...


Thanks! It is my first attempt at water cooling. I have taken all opinions into account and redo my lines sometime in the near future. Probably go with compression fittings and closer fitting lines. Maybe I'll add motherboard blocks...


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> Yeh but im pretty sure you've seen them as you have commented a few times in my build thread, which is in my sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i will take some tonight when i get home from work.


now that you mention it, i do start to recall that one. Nevertheless these are still rare breads







(these become as rare as a 7950 with a 7970 pcb







)

any plans of case swap or mod?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> Have you personally tried a Titan? The difference is much smaller than you might think in most games. A single card is generally a little smoother at similar framerates too. I don't know if the hardware frame metering on the 690 helps to balance that out. Even then you still have to rely on sli scaling.
> 
> I still think that Titan is better than most people give it credit for.
> I had 7950 tri-fire, the microstutter is a killer on my 120hz catleap. With a 60hz 1440p display they worked great with a framerate cap though.


No i have not personally tried a titan, i think i might grab two for my next build when the prices come down by the fall a couple hundred used or something.. , but ya i have zero complaints about my gtx690 its smooth as butter and performs excellent.

sorry to hear that about your 7950 tri-fire setup, Im sticking with nvidia for awhile, ive been happy with the 460, sli 580s , and my current 690, when i had the cfx 2x5770s, cfx 2x5970s, and hd6990 they werent as smooth as the nvidia setups but they were beasts on the fps!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> Used to run with Noctua fans, thought they where quiet, but then I changed to Be Quiet.


any noticeable difference in performance and noise?


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> Used to run with Noctua fans, thought they where quiet, but then I changed to Be Quiet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That site has some interesting products. Unfortunately no retailer listed for U.S. A quick online search turned up nothing available online either


----------



## num1son

Yeah they're really quiet fans (don't move a lot of air) but not available in the U.S. yet. They are working on it though, so maybe soon.


----------



## phillyd

I'm having trouble finding out where I wanna put my pump in my Switch 810. I have 90 and 45 degree rotaries. I need to determine the best way from the bottom of my res to the pump (MCP-655) and from the pump to the cpu block.

I'd like to keep tubing straight. the only places I can think of land one piece of tubing bent severely. I'd really like to hide the pump in one of the drive cages. any ideas?


----------



## IT Diva

For those with good memories,



Blocks aren't much good unless they're on a GPU, so I got busy today on my Switch 810 build and worked on the GPU plan.

It was always planned as a tri-fire rig, but when the Matrix 7970 came out, I got some, but have been waiting on a full block instead of doing a dodgy universal block setup.

What a friggin' pita, . . . have to assemble the 3 and then install it, weighs way more than this old lady manages without back pain.

Anyway, once you start, you're pretty damn committed to it.

So here's the results of a long days efforts:

That's the external cooling module in the background.

I still need to run some cables from the PSU to the new GPU's, but have to take the cover out to do it, so that's a task for another day.

Darlene


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For those with good memories,
> 
> 
> 
> Blocks aren't much good unless they're on a GPU, so I got busy today on my Switch 810 build and worked on the GPU plan.
> 
> It was always planned as a tri-fire rig, but when the Matrix 7970 came out, I got some, but have been waiting on a full block instead of doing a dodgy universal block setup.
> 
> What a friggin' pita, . . . have to assemble the 3 and then install it, weighs way more than this old lady manages without back pain.
> 
> Anyway, once you start, you're pretty damn committed to it.
> 
> So here's the results of a long days efforts:
> 
> That's the external cooling module in the background.
> 
> I still need to run some cables from the PSU to the new GPU's, but have to take the cover out to do it, so that's a task for another day.
> 
> Darlene


Why are you not my wife!!! your build is really nice, my Mrs just says "your pc box thing looks like a space ship" then toddles off to bake,


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Why are you not my wife!!! your build is really nice, my Mrs just says "your pc box thing looks like a space ship" then toddles off to bake,


dude ever heard of spoilers? use them!


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> dude ever heard of spoilers? use them!


only ones I have heard of are stuck on the back of cars


----------



## dragam

Just thought I would share my build with everyone.

This system was months in the making. A lot of time has gone into this build (over 100 hours).The whole build is red to follow suite with the ROG theme. Every single cable was custom made to exact length and sleeved. As you can see in the pictures I did not want molex connectors all over the place, so I used terminal blocks. Not only does this clean up the aesthetics of build, It just looks awesome in my opinion! I have put in a Danger Den Fill port in the top of the case with connects directly to the XSPC Res. From the XSPC Res it goes to the 360 at the top and from there it flows into the Bitspower rez with another D5 pump, from there it goes into the south bridge block, then to the 680 GPU, from the 680 to the 120 rad at the back of the case then to the cpu block, from there to the north bridge and then back to the XSPC rez. The flow with the two D5 pumps is unbelievable, and the nice thing is the redundancy. All the sleeving in the case is Kobra High Density. All the fittings used are Bitspower. The Rads are all painted. I did a push/pull at the top of the case with a Koolance 360 shroud which I also painted. I cut the top of the case to get rid of the honeycomb sheet metal for better airflow. The lighting is all BitFenix Alchemy Connect. I changed the case led's from blue to red as well. The fans on the rads are Corsair Air SP High Performace, which there are 7 of them. The case fans are Corsair Air AF-120 and AF-140 quiet edition. There are three 140's and one 120.There are so many things I could talk about with this build!. All the extra mods that went into this build add up to well over $2000.00. I know a lot of people are going to say I am nuts, but you can just get lost in things when you are building and modding! The crazy thing is, it weighs 67 pounds!!

You can look at the exact specs in my sig! I hope you guys enjoy looking as much as I had building it. Still need to make a few changes to a couple of things, but for the most part I am very happy with it.


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> Just thought I would share my build with everyone.


Please explain the 12v Rail, 5v Rail, lighting and Pump power connections in the back? How did you do it, very interested?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> So when are these going to be available in North America so I don't have to pay $400 cnd to get them?


Aquatuning is your friend.







Cheaper and faster than ordering from anywhere in Canada or USA. Even faster than Dazmode.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Aquatuning is your friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheaper and faster than ordering from anywhere in Canada or USA. Even faster than Dazmode.


Don't they only ship UPS though? UPS usually equals serious duty rape.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Don't they only ship UPS though? UPS usually equals serious duty rape.


You can say that again!!!!


----------



## longroadtrip

Customs taxes are paid at checkout (at least for the dozen or so orders I've made through AquaTuning)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> Just thought I would share my build with everyone.
> 
> This system was months in the making. A lot of time has gone into this build (over 100 hours).The whole build is red to follow suite with the ROG theme. Every single cable was custom made to exact length and sleeved. As you can see in the pictures I did not want molex connectors all over the place, so I used terminal blocks. Not only does this clean up the aesthetics of build, It just looks awesome in my opinion! I have put in a Danger Den Fill port in the top of the case with connects directly to the XSPC Res. From the XSPC Res it goes to the 360 at the top and from there it flows into the Bitspower rez with another D5 pump, from there it goes into the south bridge block, then to the 680 GPU, from the 680 to the 120 rad at the back of the case then to the cpu block, from there to the north bridge and then back to the XSPC rez. The flow with the two D5 pumps is unbelievable, and the nice thing is the redundancy. All the sleeving in the case is Kobra High Density. All the fittings used are Bitspower. The Rads are all painted. I did a push/pull at the top of the case with a Koolance 360 shroud which I also painted. I cut the top of the case to get rid of the honeycomb sheet metal for better airflow. The lighting is all BitFenix Alchemy Connect. I changed the case led's from blue to red as well. The fans on the rads are Corsair Air SP High Performace, which there are 7 of them. The case fans are Corsair Air AF-120 and AF-140 quiet edition. There are three 140's and one 120.There are so many things I could talk about with this build!. All the extra mods that went into this build add up to well over $2000.00. I know a lot of people are going to say I am nuts, but you can just get lost in things when you are building and modding! The crazy thing is, it weighs 67 pounds!!
> 
> You can look at the exact specs in my sig! I hope you guys enjoy looking as much as I had building it. Still need to make a few changes to a couple of things, but for the most part I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Even though the 900D is out, I don't get tired of seeing 800D builds still. Great build, your cabling is superb.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Customs taxes are paid at checkout (at least for the dozen or so orders I've made through AquaTuning)


When I buy stuff from outside Norway:
$175*1.25=~$219 - Taxes and toll
$219+$35=~$255 - Charged from postoffice
Thats $80...









But AT makes me pay way less...







Love the UPS shipping to Norway. Would be more like $40-50


----------



## audioholic

My "Blue Rain" build in progress...2x240mm in a Prodigy


----------



## dragam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> Please explain the 12v Rail, 5v Rail, lighting and Pump power connections in the back? How did you do it, very interested?


Your molex connectors have +5 and +12 on them. Since i did custom cables I made one with only +5 from the power supply and another with +12. I hooked them up to the bottom of the terminal strips with the red being positive and the black negative. On the +12 rail I have the fan controller, and the power for the 3 switches for the lighting. The +5 rail has the fan controller as well because that takes both +12 and +5. I also have the led's from the CPU block. The lighting rails then have the power coming from the switches on the left and then I ran the wires for the Bitfenix Alchemy lights to the right side. For the pump power, I again just took +12 from the power supply and ran it to the bottom screws on the terminal block and ran the two pumps to them! I hope this all makes sense!


----------



## dragam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Even though the 900D is out, I don't get tired of seeing 800D builds still. Great build, your cabling is superb.


Thank you!

I know I so wanted to wait for the 900D, but I still like how the 800D has the power supply separated.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> When I buy stuff from outside Norway:
> $175*1.25=~$219 - Taxes and toll
> $219+$35=~$255 - Charged from postoffice
> Thats $80...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But AT makes me pay way less...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the UPS shipping to Norway. Would be more like $40-50


Last order I made from them:
Product: $412.02
6.4% Customs: $26.88
48 Hour shipping: $8.00

Customs on aquatuning.US is handled at checkout.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Great build, your cabling is superb.


THIS! I don't know if I've ever seen neater cabling in an 800D build. Heck, ANY build! That is some nice and tidy work!


----------



## dragam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> THIS! I don't know if I've ever seen neater cabling in an 800D build. Heck, ANY build! That is some nice and tidy work!


Thanks so much, a lot of time went into the cabling. Makes me feel good when people appreciate it. My wife laughs at me all the time, for how much time I spent on it!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> Thanks so much, *a lot of time went into the cabling*. Makes me feel good when people appreciate it. My wife laughs at me all the time, for how much time I spent on it!


It shows, and I believe the bolded text to be an understatement. That cabling and labeling is immaculate.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> Thanks so much, a lot of time went into the cabling. Makes me feel good when people appreciate it. My wife laughs at me all the time, for how much time I spent on it!


Yeah..I have to say that is some of the cleanest cabling I've seen in a very long time...amazing job and a flawless execution!


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> Thanks so much, a lot of time went into the cabling. Makes me feel good when people appreciate it. My wife laughs at me all the time, for how much time I spent on it!


You can thank us all by doing a tutorial thread with lots of pictures that details exactly how us noobs can do the same thing!!







I wish I knew how to do that electrical stuff without risking electrocution!


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> You can thank us all by doing a tutorial thread with lots of pictures that details exactly how us noobs can do the same thing!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I knew how to do that electrical stuff without risking electrocution!


I second this Bart!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Don't they only ship UPS though? UPS usually equals serious duty rape.


Yes they do ship UPS but they have special magical powers. Somehow the duty fees are always included at checkout and are considerably lower than you would expect. Average cost for me in shipping/custom duty fees is about $40 CAD. It ends up being way cheaper than ordering from somewhere like Frozencpu and 100x faster. My average wait time from FCPU is about 3 weeks and shipping is always around $40-50 with about $20-30 custom fees. And the best part about Aquatuning is the wait is only 3-4 business days. Like I said...... special magical powers. Even faster than ordering from Dazmode(for an Albertan).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Customs taxes are paid at checkout (at least for the dozen or so orders I've made through AquaTuning)


LRT knows whatsup!









Seriously man try them out. You won't be disappointed. One a canadian forum I post one one member got charged the duty fees from UPS(got unlucky and there was a mistake) and aquatuning refunded them the amount. Highly recommended.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Yes they do ship UPS but they have special magical powers. Somehow the duty fees are always included at checkout and are considerably lower than you would expect. Average cost for me in shipping/custom duty fees is about $40 CAD. It ends up being way cheaper than ordering from somewhere like Frozencpu and 100x faster. My average wait time from FCPU is about 3 weeks and shipping is always around $40-50 with about $20-30 custom fees. And the best part about Aquatuning is the wait is only 3-4 business days. Like I said...... special magical powers. Even faster than ordering from Dazmode(for an Albertan).
> LRT knows whatsup!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously man try them out. You won't be disappointed. One a canadian forum I post one one member got charged the duty fees from UPS(got unlucky and there was a mistake) and aquatuning refunded them the amount. Highly recommended.


I always order from performance-pcs.com and use usps and never get charged any duty...


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Aquatuning is your friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheaper and faster than ordering from anywhere in Canada or USA. Even faster than Dazmode.


No matter, the blocks aren't available untill 26/04/13....


----------



## Aftermath2006

i ordered the aquacomputer blocks from aquatuning but im still wondering about those backplates anybody know anything about those an eta or anything


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> i ordered the aquacomputer blocks from aquatuning but im still wondering about those backplates anybody know anything about those an eta or anything


I finally gave up. If I gotta wait, it'll be on these...
http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=06G-P4-2794-KR
Just ordered 2 from NCIX.ca but they're on back order, we'll see how long it takes.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I always order from performance-pcs.com and use usps and never get charged any duty...


Lucky you.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> I finally gave up. If I gotta wait, it'll be on these...
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=06G-P4-2794-KR
> Just ordered 2 from NCIX.ca but they're on back order, we'll see how long it takes.


no disrespect but I would never spend that kind of money on a video card! its outrageous they even have them selling at that price! there is no game or program out there that can utilize that kind of power, its a massive overkill on anything going to come out within the next two years!

however if I won the lottery, yea Id quad SLI those mofo's







,


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> no disrespect but I would never spend that kind of money on a video card! its outrageous they even have them selling at that price! there is no game or program out there that can utilize that kind of power, its a massive overkill on anything going to come out within the next two years!
> 
> however if I won the lottery, yea Id quad SLI those mofo's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,


This is overkill dot net afterall.









Even though my rig is far from being super boss it's still extremely overkill for my needs.







as is the case for most of the people around here.


----------



## w-moffatt

Whats the opinion on the bitspower cpu blocks??

One i'm looking at for a build im doing...Thoughts?

http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/bitspower-cpu-block-summit-ef-amd-clear-acrylic-top-version/

Also looking at this rad in both the 120mm and 240mm.by oxidisation does that mean it has a short life span and ill need to replace them?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22475


----------



## Gizzernl

Here are some pics of my frist custom loop build (cpu only) I tend to change out my gpu more then I ough too.









First the spec list:]

*#**Product*1Intel Core i7 3820 Tray1Asus Rampage IV Gene1EVGA GeForce GTX 670 FTW1Samsung Spinpoint F1 HD103UJ, 1TB1Fractal Design Define Mini1Scythe Kaze Master Flat1Antec H2O 6201Aqua-Computer Aquastream XT USB 12V1Aqua-Computer Flow sensor mps flow 400, G1/42Aqua-Computer Temperature sensor inline G1/41EK Waterblocks EK-Multioption RES 1501EK Waterblocks EK-Supreme LTX CSQ- Copper - Plexi1Thermochill PA 120.2 (2x120mm)2Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK 3, 140mm6Scythe Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B5AP-15 (1850 rpm) , 120mm*Bekijk collectie*
 
Testing the custom cpu loop


Pictures of the build completed:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Looks pretty good, i think it would look better without the anti kink coil in my opinion, your tube runs don't look like there in danger of kinking, and is that a Accelero Hybrid on your videocard? , first time I've seen one if so


----------



## Gizzernl

Thnx for the comment. It is not the hybrid, it just an antec 620 with a DWOOD bracket. I left the stock vram coolplate on with the stock fan. I use the flow from the rad fans and the fan in the door too provide additional airflow and fresh are to the block and gpu fan. I fixed the gpu fan to 40%.

The anti kink on the hose was supplied like this. I am thinking about getting some new hose, which is also a better harder red, this red is more like see through red. But that is in the future. I am also thinking about fixing an additional radiator on the outside in stead of the antec 620 and getting a gpu block with fast couplings. For now this is ok.

I am still looking for max settings, byt 4,8ghz at 1,45volt is ok on the 3820. It gets to about 68 degrees in intel burn in with the fans on full then. (the fans speed up because they are controlled by the aquastream). In games it does not get above 60. The gpu also sticks at 60 degrees with the fan (now single) @900rpm on the antec 620. The dual fan did not fit with the fan on the door and the door fitted. Since more fresh air was necessary in my opinion I opted for the fresh air intake instead of the dual fan on the rad.

The top 140mm and the 120mm on the 620 are used as outflow.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> That site has some interesting products. Unfortunately no retailer listed for U.S. A quick online search turned up nothing available online either


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Yeah they're really quiet fans (don't move a lot of air) but not available in the U.S. yet. They are working on it though, so maybe soon.


I see them available on Aquatuning:

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p15089_Be-Quiet-Case-Fan-SilentWings-2-PWM--140x140x25mm-.html

Will they not ship a non-released product to the U.S.?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Whats the opinion on the bitspower cpu blocks??
> 
> One i'm looking at for a build im doing...Thoughts?
> 
> http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/bitspower-cpu-block-summit-ef-amd-clear-acrylic-top-version/
> 
> Also looking at this rad in both the 120mm and 240mm.by oxidisation does that mean it has a short life span and ill need to replace them?
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22475


I'll be using the Bitspower Summit in White for mine, so maybe we both end up reviewing it at the same time!
I am going to kind-of wing it... They have quality fittings, but not a lot of user reviews on the blocks so far.

Thanks - T


----------



## dragam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> You can thank us all by doing a tutorial thread with lots of pictures that details exactly how us noobs can do the same thing!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I knew how to do that electrical stuff without risking electrocution!


No promises! But if I get some time I'll see what I can do.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I see them available on Aquatuning:
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p15089_Be-Quiet-Case-Fan-SilentWings-2-PWM--140x140x25mm-.html
> 
> Will they not ship a non-released product to the U.S.?
> 
> I'll be using the Bitspower Summit in White for mine, so maybe we both end up reviewing it at the same time!
> I am going to kind-of wing it... They have quality fittings, but not a lot of user reviews on the blocks so far.
> 
> Thanks - T


awesome! yeah im in love with the clear design and being an AMD user trying to find clear cpu blocks is hard LoL...spose ill stick with it and give it a go!


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Yes they do ship UPS but they have special magical powers. Somehow the duty fees are always included at checkout and are considerably lower than you would expect. Average cost for me in shipping/custom duty fees is about $40 CAD. It ends up being way cheaper than ordering from somewhere like Frozencpu and 100x faster. My average wait time from FCPU is about 3 weeks and shipping is always around $40-50 with about $20-30 custom fees. And the best part about Aquatuning is the wait is only 3-4 business days. Like I said...... special magical powers. Even faster than ordering from Dazmode(for an Albertan).
> LRT knows whatsup!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously man try them out. You won't be disappointed. One a canadian forum I post one one member got charged the duty fees from UPS(got unlucky and there was a mistake) and aquatuning refunded them the amount. Highly recommended.


Sweet!! That is some excellent news. Us poor beleagured canucks need every good option we can find! Thanks for the info! And thanks for almost making me spit coffee / muffin all over my keyboard when I read "special magical powers". That hit my funny bone hard for some reason!


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Whats the opinion on the bitspower cpu blocks??
> 
> One i'm looking at for a build im doing...Thoughts?
> 
> http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/bitspower-cpu-block-summit-ef-amd-clear-acrylic-top-version/
> 
> Also looking at this rad in both the 120mm and 240mm.by oxidisation does that mean it has a short life span and ill need to replace them?
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22475


Oxidization is just a reaction between the copper and air - it might turn greenish brown or so, like you sometimes see on your cpu block if it is made of copper.

It is only cosmetic, there should be no performance degradation and you do not need to replace them.

As for bitspower cpu blocks - a mate of mine has a summit, he is pretty happy with it. I think the general rule of thumb is that most (not all) cpu blocks are within 1-3 degrees of each other.

Just pick the one that catches your eye


----------



## w-moffatt

^^ Awesome info man thats great...im gunna have fans covering the rads so the internal aesthetics i dont care about its just the fact its a white rad which matches my build









Cheers


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> No promises! But if I get some time I'll see what I can do.


I was only kidding, but honestly, it would be an AWESOME help to the electrical noobs out there like me. Especially if you wrote something up from the perspective of a person who knows nothing about eletrical work. I write some technical procedures sometimes for work, and those things are INVALUABLE to noobs when written from that perspective. It would be a huge benefit to the OCN community for sure. LOTS of people would benefit from a good how-to like that!


----------



## SeekerZA

Few changes done to Loop


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Whats the opinion on the bitspower cpu blocks??
> 
> One i'm looking at for a build im doing...Thoughts?
> 
> http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/bitspower-cpu-block-summit-ef-amd-clear-acrylic-top-version/
> 
> Also looking at this rad in both the 120mm and 240mm.by oxidisation does that mean it has a short life span and ill need to replace them?
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22475


Oxidation only occurs when you mix different metal types in a single loop; they start to eat away at each other and eventually ruin the blocks. For instance you shouldn't mix copper and aluminum.

I love my Bitspower block so much. It's extremely well built; I mean holding it your hands you think "Wow, I'm suprised Bitspower did such a nice job". I have the Intel Clear Acrylic and the block even down to the mounting pieces and brackets blend in with the rest of the motherboard so well. Not to mention I have fantastically low deltas for my temperatures as well. I'd highly recommend. Reference pictures:


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Few changes done to Loop


Question: why do you need an external radiator u already have a triple radiator at the top, the quad out the back looks ridiculous (no offence just my opinion).

I feel as though these days people get out of hand with the radiators when they are just cooling CPU and gpu... The cases now are so big with a quad radiator on top, bottom and then dual out back... The point in water cooling is efficiency but also quieter, it's not going to be quieter replacing the 1-2 fans with 16 in push-pull config..

Not only does it not render better results past a point but it takes away from the look of the rig


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Question: why do you need an external radiator u already have a triple radiator at the top, the quad out the back looks ridiculous (no offence just my opinion).
> 
> I feel as though these days people get out of hand with the radiators when they are just cooling CPU and gpu... The cases now are so big with a quad radiator on top, bottom and then dual out back... The point in water cooling is efficiency but also quieter, it's not going to be quieter replacing the 1-2 fans with 16 in push-pull config..
> 
> Not only does it not render better results past a point but it takes away from the look of the rig


It's OCN nothing is overkill and all that rad surface area will help depending on how high an overclock he decides to use. I'm with you on not being a fan of external rads but to each there own.. next time you quote a post with that many pics use spoilers or remove some of the pics from th quote


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> the quad out the back looks ridiculous (no offence just my opinion).


Ridiculously awesome!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> The point in water cooling is efficiency but also quieter, it's not going to be quieter replacing the 1-2 fans with 16 in push-pull config..


Not everyone's goal is to make their systems quieter. People like overkill because it satisfies their vision of a custom rig that they wanted to build. Not everyone wants to have the "standard" water cooling setup. That's what makes us human. Life would be boring if we didn't have ideas like this.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Question: why do you need an external radiator u already have a triple radiator at the top, the quad out the back looks ridiculous (no offence just my opinion).
> 
> I feel as though these days people get out of hand with the radiators when they are just cooling CPU and gpu... The cases now are so big with a quad radiator on top, bottom and then dual out back... The point in water cooling is efficiency but also quieter, it's not going to be quieter replacing the 1-2 fans with 16 in push-pull config..
> 
> Not only does it not render better results past a point but it takes away from the look of the rig


Just to fit a Monsta on really and eliminate any difference in temps from cpu to gpu by placing rad in-between. Was going to put a 360 at back but saw there was more space so put that one on. One of my changes to ext rad was putting those 45degree rotaray angle fittings on inplace of just connecting pipe to rad with straight fittings. Looks much cleaner outside and inside compared to before ( Check Build log)

It's my first loop with new touch ups here and there really. Not yet able to grasp a proper visual on where to add fittings for cleaner bends and overall look. Any help there though? And what UV light is brightest based from experience please.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Few changes done to Loop
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can I ask what you used to mount that external radiator to the exhaust fan mount? A link would be great. I'm trying to figure out how to do the same thing and I would really appreciate it.


----------



## LayerCakes

Delilah update.


----------



## SeekerZA

Not a problem

Koolance Radiator Mounting bracket with quick release

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_982&products_id=25631


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> Delilah update.


That front rad. . . Tempting but i'm in a spot where more storage is required and cannot make away with the drive cage. .


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> 
> Delilah update.


Nice!







Did you re-build the loop? Look different than before.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Not a problem
> 
> Koolance Radiator Mounting bracket with quick release
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_982&products_id=25631


THANK YOU so much man. You just made my life a lot easier. REP to you for your help.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Not a problem
> 
> Koolance Radiator Mounting bracket with quick release
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_982&products_id=25631


May I also ask you what fittings you are using for the external rad? I hope they make them in black


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> May I also ask you what fittings you are using for the external rad? I hope they make them in black


The ones i use:

Red Monsoon free center compression fittings:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1028&products_id=33201

Red Monsoon Rotary Angle Fitting:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1139&products_id=35994

Here are the black one's in 3/4

Matte Black Monsoon free center compression fittings:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1028&products_id=33200

Black Chrome Monsoon free center compression fittings:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1028&products_id=33198

Matte Black Monsoon Rotary Angle Fitting:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1139&products_id=35530

Black Chrome Monsoon Rotary Angle Fitting:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1139&products_id=35524


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Classic......


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> Delilah update.


You seem to do everything I think about doing. What fans and rad in the front?

From now on could you send me details of your mods so I can just order the stuff?


----------



## SeekerZA




----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Classic......


It is classic. When I saw that on the Real Red Raider Forums, I thought it was brilliant:thumb:
Thanks for posting it!
Rep+

Edit:
Thanks for the invite! I'll have to give it a go.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Classic......
> 
> 
> 
> It is classic. When I saw that on the Real Red Raider Forums, I thought it was brilliant:thumb:
> Thanks for posting it!
> Rep+
Click to expand...

Im a regular over there,you should come and say hi


----------



## DrewWyber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> As per picture...
> 
> The 'out' is mounted opposite of the 'in' on the bridge. The design would then *force* liquid around both gpu blocks. In your configuration, the liquid is more passive through the gpu blocks because you've give a direct route for the liquid to enter, then exit, the bridge.
> I'd bet you'd see a 5-10c drop in temps if you moved either port on your bridge. My gpu's never go above 45c under load.


So your saying I should move the top "in" tube a couple inches over to the top-left port? That seems easy enough. I had someone help me a little w/ my build and he said this is how it should be setup, so I didn't ask too many Q's but I definitely see what your saying. I do have a possibly dumb question though, why even have two ports up there? Is it so you can customize your loop a little more and have a slightly different tube config? Seems kinda redundant and useless, but I'm no expert in water cooling..

Edit: I just noticed in the pic you provided that my bridge is upside down compared to that one. Should I turn it around? That may require new tubing so I'm not sure it's worth the effort, but I would like that little EK logo to be facing upright







(perfectionist, like all water cooler's are).

Edit #2 (lol): I think I'm looking at that pic wrong so I think it's setup similar, except for the tubing in the wrong ports etc. like you mentioned.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you re-build the loop? Look different than before.


I've moved my GPU's about, changed my CPU block and added some drives








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> That front rad. . . Tempting but i'm in a spot where more storage is required and cannot make away with the drive cage. .


How many drives do you need to mount? I've got three 3.5", two 2.5" and a 5.25" drive in mine as well as a fan controller. And I could easily get more in!


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> How many drives do you need to mount? I've got three 3.5", two 2.5" and a 5.25" drive in mine as well as a fan controller. And I could easily get more in!


This sounds like one of those crazy math questions from school. "If you have three 3.5 inch drives, two 2.5 inch drives and one 5.25 inch drives, how many 3.5 inch drives should you buy?

Riddle me this?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> This sounds like one of those crazy math questions from school. "If you have three 3.5 inch drives, two 2.5 inch drives and one 5.25 inch drives, how many 3.5 inch drives should you buy?
> 
> Riddle me this?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178326

one.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Oxidation only occurs when you mix different metal types in a single loop; they start to eat away at each other and eventually ruin the blocks. For instance you shouldn't mix copper and aluminum.
> 
> I love my Bitspower block so much. It's extremely well built; I mean holding it your hands you think "Wow, I'm suprised Bitspower did such a nice job". I have the Intel Clear Acrylic and the block even down to the mounting pieces and brackets blend in with the rest of the motherboard so well. Not to mention I have fantastically low deltas for my temperatures as well. I'd highly recommend. Reference pictures:


awesome thanks for the info! Yeah pretty pumped about this block (also my first build) im going to use mayhems blueberry pastel so it should come up a treat!


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Oxidation only occurs when you mix different metal types in a single loop; they start to eat away at each other and eventually ruin the blocks. For instance you shouldn't mix copper and aluminum.


That's corrosion, NOT oxidation. Oxidation is a natural process that occurs when copper is exposed to oxygen. Check the Statue of Liberty for a very clear example of this. Copper blocks typically have a coating on the outside to prevent this, but not on the inside. Nickel plating is the best defense, but done wrong it causes problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im a regular over there,you should come and say hi


I stopped going to that place specifically because the regulars there love spamming hate threads with those GIFs. It's the cool thing to hate for the sake of hating there, though the EK hate is understandable. Most of the other hate is greatly exaggerated or done with a poor understanding of the situation. There used to be more useful info than spam and hate over there, now there isn't.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey can you guys help me with this appraisal for the part out on my sig rig, most of its watercooling parts..


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> You seem to do everything I think about doing. What fans and rad in the front?
> 
> From now on could you send me details of your mods so I can just order the stuff?


Front rad is a Phobya Xtreme 200 with a Coolermaster Magaflow 200 in pull. The rad is double sided taped to the stock 230mm front fan.

The drives are in the 5.25" bays using 2 extra Coolermaster hot swap brackets. One of them has been modded to take two 2.5" drives and that's at the top as the smaller drivers actually fit under the 45mm thick rad.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrewWyber*
> 
> So your saying I should move the top "in" tube a couple inches over to the top-left port? That seems easy enough. I had someone help me a little w/ my build and he said this is how it should be setup, so I didn't ask too many Q's but I definitely see what your saying. I do have a possibly dumb question though, why even have two ports up there? Is it so you can customize your loop a little more and have a slightly different tube config? Seems kinda redundant and useless, but I'm no expert in water cooling..
> 
> Edit: I just noticed in the pic you provided that my bridge is upside down compared to that one. Should I turn it around? That may require new tubing so I'm not sure it's worth the effort, but I would like that little EK logo to be facing upright
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (perfectionist, like all water cooler's are).
> 
> Edit #2 (lol): I think I'm looking at that pic wrong so I think it's setup similar, except for the tubing in the wrong ports etc. like you mentioned.


You got it. The extra ports just allow you to customize layout, but the in should be opposite the out.


----------



## XKaan

I'm waiting on a 900D right now so I can get my new build going, but here is my 3 year old rig that I spent some serious time on. (Little dusty and sorry for the crappy pics)

(ATCS 840, EVGA X79 LE, 5970, EK full cover block etc) I completely replace the original mesh top with a custom piece of aluminum I was able to get cut, then powdercoated.


----------



## PCModderMike

Random pics for the gallery


----------



## sebar

Has anyone used nylon tubing in their water cooling loop? If so did you notice any advantages/disadvantages? I picked up some acetal fittings and was going to try to use nylon tubing. The tubing I got is supposed to have a radius of just over 1 inch but after trying it it seems closer to 2 inch radius.


----------



## TwentyCent

Oh you and your sexy-ass build


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Has anyone used nylon tubing in their water cooling loop? If so did you notice any advantages/disadvantages? I picked up some acetal fittings and was going to try to use nylon tubing. The tubing I got is supposed to have a radius of just over 1 inch but after trying it it seems closer to 2 inch radius.


I hope you mean circumference...if you put your pinky fingers side by side, that's close to an inch. 3/4" anyway.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Oh you and your sexy-ass build


Who mine?

If so, thanks!


----------



## sebar

I mean bend radius, how tight of a bend I can achieve without the tubing kinking. I just measured it and it is 1.62 radius before kink.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I mean bend radius, how tight of a bend I can achieve without the tubing kinking. I just measured it and it is 1.62 radius before kink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ic


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I mean bend radius, how tight of a bend I can achieve without the tubing kinking. I just measured it and it is 1.62 radius before kink.


Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but a guy on a local forum whipped up a quick tutorial on how to make very small, tight bends without kinking. Not sure if it will help, but here it is:

http://www.dazmode.com/_forum/showthread.php?369-Making-Tight-Tubing-Corners


----------



## sebar

Thanks, I was mostly wondering if anyone has used this type of tubing before.


----------



## dragam

Thought I would add some more pictures of the build.

This was everything before it went into the case



The case had a little bit of drilling and cutting.





And of course the table always gets out of control.



The Koolance shroud trial fitting after painting and mounting of the fans.





The 360 rad painted and mounting of the fans.





Start of the wiring of the terminal strips.







Temporary power hookup to make sure everything was working as intended.



Starting to put everything in the case, first with the rads.



A few more pics of things going in.









The start of putting everything in the case, and building the water loop.













The water loop is built.













Getting ready to fill the loop, keeping fingers crossed for no leaks!



The loop is filling and so far so good.







And not one leak!


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> Thought I would add some more pictures of the build.
> 
> This was everything before it went into the case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The case had a little bit of drilling and cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course the table always gets out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> The Koolance shroud trial fitting after painting and mounting of the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 360 rad painted and mounting of the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start of the wiring of the terminal strips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temporary power hookup to make sure everything was working as intended.
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to put everything in the case, first with the rads.
> 
> 
> 
> A few more pics of things going in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The start of putting everything in the case, and building the water loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The water loop is built.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting ready to fill the loop, keeping fingers crossed for no leaks!
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is filling and so far so good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And not one leak!


Great job. I have to say, 2nd to none on the wiring.


----------



## MKHunt

Dat setup. Just SO snazzy. Makes me ashamed of the mess behind my far side panel.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Dat setup. Just SO snazzy. Makes me ashamed of the mess behind my far side panel.


LOL , something like this?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> LOL , something like this?


I know everyone here is OCD and wants every wire in place at just the right length and even the ones not sen to the eye matter to them... but in honesty, its hard to justify cleaning up the wires you can't see and already have a clean interior for... its like the dirty closet everyone has in the house... nobody goes in there, but you cant see it when its closed so its ok







LOL

P.S. the back of mine will probably look like this once Im done my build. (Classy Blue), but there is a back cover for a reason to hide that ****!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I know everyone here is OCD and wants every wire in place at just the right length and even the ones not sen to the eye matter to them... but in honesty, its hard to justify cleaning up the wires you can't see and already have a clean interior for... its like the dirty closet everyone has in the house... nobody goes in there, but you cant see it when its closed so its ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL


Totally agree, I actually thing mine isn't to bad, ive seen worse sadly lol, but ya once a new builds up in running rarely does the back panel come off, especially to show people lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Oxidation only occurs when you mix different metal types in a single loop; they start to eat away at each other and eventually ruin the blocks. For instance you shouldn't mix copper and aluminum.
> 
> 
> 
> That's corrosion, NOT oxidation. Oxidation is a natural process that occurs when copper is exposed to oxygen. Check the Statue of Liberty for a very clear example of this. Copper blocks typically have a coating on the outside to prevent this, but not on the inside. Nickel plating is the best defense, but done wrong it causes problems.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im a regular over there,you should come and say hi
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I stopped going to that place specifically because the regulars there love spamming hate threads with those GIFs. It's the cool thing to hate for the sake of hating there, though the EK hate is understandable. Most of the other hate is greatly exaggerated or done with a poor understanding of the situation. There used to be more useful info than spam and hate over there, now there isn't.
Click to expand...

Aye,it did get a bit like that for a while,its calmed down a lot in the last 6 months or so tho.
Its a shame people don't look beyond the surface as there are some bang on guys there.


----------



## KurruptAus

*
JEALOUS ANYONE?*

more pics in my log


----------



## fakeblood

I wouldn't say jealous... But nice build regardless


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I wouldn't say jealous... But nice build regardless


haha thanks


----------



## phantasml

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> 
> 
> *
> JEALOUS ANYONE?*
> 
> more pics in my log


Very nice! How do you mount your power supply there?


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phantasml*
> 
> Very nice! How do you mount your power supply there?


Used the drive mounting rails off the HDD bays


----------



## XKaan

^ Looks awesome


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> ^ Looks awesome


Thanks guys!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> JEALOUS ANYONE?*
> more pics in my log


Me likey! Good idea on the PSU placement, really frees up the bottom of the case for bigger rads.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> 
> 
> *
> JEALOUS ANYONE?*
> 
> more pics in my log


Nice yes, jealous no.








Good job.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> 
> 
> *
> JEALOUS ANYONE?*
> 
> more pics in my log


Very nice, especially the psu mounting. You just need to find a cover for the original hole out the back...the panel board through the bottom just doesn't seem to go with the rest of the build


----------



## KurruptAus

I really don't know what to put there at this point







Maybe a piece of white acrylic or white aluminum..

Thanks for all the comments


----------



## PCModderMike

Yea some white acrylic back there would fit nicely.


----------



## KurruptAus

I know whats going on the to-buy list then









Should I have my fans in pull or push?


----------



## dragam

What do you guys think about painting the fan blades red, and leaving the center black would it be too much?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys so lately I've been planning on a water cooling setup for my MVE, Crossfire 7950's, and 3770k in my Phantom 820 case. I'm going with this CPU block:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supremacy-acetal.html
these GPU blocks:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088
and I have been looking for a full board block for the ASUS MVE.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/ek-fb-kit-asus-m5e-acetal-nickel.html

So my question is this: Since my CPU and GPU blocks are going to be copper and acetal I shouldn't use a nickel and acetal full board block, right? Is there any other options? I can't seem to find a copper one anywhere.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> I know whats going on the to-buy list then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I have my fans in pull or push?


Push is always better than pull.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> What do you guys think about painting the fan blades red, and leaving the center black would it be too much?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good as is IMO, I think if it was all red, would be overdone.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> What do you guys think about painting the fan blades red, and leaving the center black would it be too much?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No I don't think that would look good I love how it looks right now with just the subtle highlight of red on them.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Push is always better than pull.
> Looks good as is IMO, I think if it was all red, would be overdone.


Plus you ruin their resale value if/when you get new ones.


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> What do you guys think about painting the fan blades red, and leaving the center black would it be too much?


I say leave as is.. looks good


----------



## dragam

Yeah was thinking it would be too much, but you know how it is. When you think you are done with the build, you just want to do more!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragam*
> 
> What do you guys think about painting the fan blades red, and leaving the center black would it be too much?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The red trim on the fan case/shroud looks good enough. I say no to painting.


----------



## Derko1

Changed the direction of my 360 rad up top.











Getting air out of the loop... by flipping the case all around.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Changed the direction of my 360 rad up top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting air out of the loop... by flipping the case all around.


Always a happy sight to see a fellow Komodo user









I really like how you positioned the bottom radiator. Is that a 120mm or 140mm on the bottom?


----------



## tiborrr12

EK-Supremacy Clear CSQ:


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Always a happy sight to see a fellow Komodo user
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how you positioned the bottom radiator. Is that a 120mm or 140mm on the bottom?


140mm actually.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-Supremacy Clear CSQ:


Finally fixed that ugly circle design


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys so lately I've been planning on a water cooling setup for my MVE, Crossfire 7950's, and 3770k in my Phantom 820 case. I'm going with this CPU block:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supremacy-acetal.html
> these GPU blocks:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088
> and I have been looking for a full board block for the ASUS MVE.
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/ek-fb-kit-asus-m5e-acetal-nickel.html
> 
> So my question is this: Since my CPU and GPU blocks are going to be copper and acetal I shouldn't use a nickel and acetal full board block, right? Is there any other options? I can't seem to find a copper one anywhere.


Anyone?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Anyone?


You can mix copper and nickel just fine, don't worry


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> You can mix copper and nickel just fine, don't worry
Click to expand...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-Supremacy Clear CSQ:


Not sure if it's better then the circles design, the best design was the Ek-Supreme HF imo (I'm talking about the non-plexi version)

I wanna see it used in a loop..


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love my Supreme HF (though its the plexi version)...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-Supremacy Clear CSQ:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! I actually dont mid the original CSQ design.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love my Supreme HF (though its the plexi version)...


Not saying anything is wrong with the Supreme HF plexi version, im just not a fan of plexi blocks period, had my fun with clear tubes and die not fun, staining is brutal... solid blocks and colored tubing for me!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-Supremacy Clear CSQ:


They could do with a chamfer on the edges of plexi,just to add some detail as the block looks a little plain.

Nice tho.


----------



## Derko1

I think I got all the air out of the rads...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I just flushed my plexi blocks after 8 months of running pastel red and they came totally clean.


----------



## lowfat

Still a WIP.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3236_zps66053544.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3234_zps2ff28ecb.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3239_zpseaabde83.jpg.html

and a very poor quality pic showing the whole thing.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3243_zps12adb144.jpg.html


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That pastel berry blue is just awesome everytime I see it. Nice pre-CSQ 680 blocks as well!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I just flushed my plexi blocks after 8 months of running pastel red and they came totally clean.


This

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Still a WIP.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3236_zps66053544.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3234_zps2ff28ecb.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3239_zpseaabde83.jpg.html
> 
> and a very poor quality pic showing the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3243_zps12adb144.jpg.html


Wow lowfat, that's looking great.


----------



## bomberjun

Bleeding


----------



## dragam

Looks really good


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Still a WIP.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3236_zps66053544.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3234_zps2ff28ecb.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3239_zpseaabde83.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> and a very poor quality pic showing the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3243_zps12adb144.jpg.html


Wow, just love that loop, clean... Wow. Does the parralel GPU + CPU loop loose any performance compared to a "non-paralel" one?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Still a WIP.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3236_zps66053544.jpg.html
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3234_zps2ff28ecb.jpg.html
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3239_zpseaabde83.jpg.html
> and a very poor quality pic showing the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3243_zps12adb144.jpg.html


Another awesome build. Love that pastel blue.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Bleeding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean looking build. Nice work!


----------



## ElGreco

Hi all!

I am about to do some maintanance on my current loop and I would really appreciate your ideas on how *improve the flowrate of my loop*.
Currently I get *only 2ltrs/min with my D5 Pumps running at ~3400RPM.*

I started a new thread on this here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1382830/ideas-on-how-to-improve-flowrate-of-dual-d5-pump-loop

Thanks in advance


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> I think I got all the air out of the rads...


Glad to see you were able to get a new fan mounted. Did it improve temps and airflow at all?


----------



## phantasml

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I am about to do some maintanance on my current loop and I would really appreciate your ideas on how *improve the flowrate of my loop*.
> Currently I get *only 2ltrs/min with my D5 Pumps running at ~3400RPM.*
> 
> I started a new thread on this here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1382830/ideas-on-how-to-improve-flowrate-of-dual-d5-pump-loop
> 
> Thanks in advance


Wow really nice setup there. How do you bend the tube 90 degree like that?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Wow, just love that loop, clean... Wow. Does the parralel GPU + CPU loop loose any performance compared to a "non-paralel" one?


For GPUs it really doesn't matter near as much. The CPU is getting less flow but I haven't found it to be a problem. It was rather difficult to bleed though.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Glad to see you were able to get a new fan mounted. Did it improve temps and airflow at all?


I am pretty sure that it did... but I also delidded my 3770k at the same moment I put the fan in. I dropped a little over 20C in temps... so I don't know how much each is responsible for.









Thanks for the help btw!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> I am pretty sure that it did... but I also delidded my 3770k at the same moment I put the fan in. I dropped a little over 20C in temps... so I don't know how much each is responsible for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help btw!










that's quite an impressive drop.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-Supremacy Clear CSQ:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Those solid black blocks are completely rad


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phantasml*
> 
> Wow really nice setup there. How do you bend the tube 90 degree like that?


He's using clip on tubing guides:
http://www.xoxide.com/phobyaangledclip90-1310mm-tubingblack.html


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> He's using clip on tubing guides:
> http://www.xoxide.com/phobyaangledclip90-1310mm-tubingblack.html


It doesn't appear there are any clip on tubing guides mounted to the tubing in the picture.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Opinions, everyone?

In my upcoming CaseLabs S3 Mercury mITX build:

Swiftech Apogee Drive II pump / block combo unit, or the Bitspower Summit EF in white Acetal with a Swiftech MCP655-PWM and a Bitspower mod kit and Koolance matte black pump block?

Thanks - T


----------



## NostraD

Code:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> It doesn't appear there are any clip on tubing guides mounted to the tubing in the picture.


If we're talking about the same build - ElGreco's - in the third pic you can see the tubing running from the CPU and making a horseshoe down to the bottom GPU - all one piece but in perfect 90 deg angles. You can make out the edges of the black guides that the black tubing is snapped into. I would illustrate/hi-light them but I'm on my iPhone.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Opinions, everyone?
> 
> In my upcoming CaseLabs S3 Mercury mITX build:
> 
> Swiftech Apogee Drive II pump / block combo unit, or the Bitspower Summit EF in white Acetal with a Swiftech MCP655-PWM and a Bitspower mod kit and Koolance matte black pump block?
> 
> Thanks - T


Any reviews yet on how the Apogee performs? In an ITX case, that little puppy would make life easier, since you're not worrying about pump/res mounting. But if the performance is worse, I personally wouldn't go that route. But if the performance is at least close to equal, I'd go that route just for the space savings.


----------



## phillyd

Hey guys I have the Swiftech MCP-655 special edition pump, (PWM) and when I run the pump, the water doesn't move but the pump sounds like its working. Any ideas?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Any reviews yet on how the Apogee performs? .


It is a good performing block. Ever so slightly better than the Apogee HD IIRC. But unless you don't have the space for a pump elsewhere I wouldn't really suggest it. It really doesn't all that good. In a case w/ no space they are really nice but the CaseLabs ITX case is still rather large.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys I have the Swiftech MCP-655 special edition pump, (PWM) and when I run the pump, the water doesn't move but the pump sounds like its working. Any ideas?


If the water isn't moving there likely is a large air bubble in the pump.

EDIT: Really? I can't delete a double post.


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> It doesn't appear there are any clip on tubing guides mounted to the tubing in the picture.


If you are referring to El Greco's post at 41514, I can see a layer of black around the outside of the tubes. There are two 90 degree plastic(?) clips forming that rounded rectangular curve in the tube. An interesting look.


----------



## lowfat

Those 90 degree tubing clips he using are made by Alphacool/Phobya. PPCS sells them.

EDIT: Didn't see the link above.


----------



## Radmanhs

I want to join! even though my system isnt as impressive as some of the others here, its something

I am using a zalman lq320





my goal in life is to get a job, and make custom computers as a hobby and take the money from that and make the ultimate system for myself


----------



## Plutonium10

Finally figured out a way to plumb in a stealthy drain line on my D5, still have the in/out lines where I want them, and make it all fit under the intake fan. I had to make a stainless steel bracket for the base of the pump because the weight of all those fittings kept tipping it forward.


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phantasml*
> 
> Wow really nice setup there. How do you bend the tube 90 degree like that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> It doesn't appear there are any clip on tubing guides mounted to the tubing in the picture.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Code:


If we're talking about the same build - ElGreco's - in the third pic you can see the tubing running from the CPU and making a horseshoe down to the bottom GPU - all one piece but in perfect 90 deg angles. You can make out the edges of the black guides that the black tubing is snapped into. I would illustrate/hi-light them but I'm on my iPhone.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prof Aronnax*
> 
> If you are referring to El Greco's post at 41514, I can see a layer of black around the outside of the tubes. There are two 90 degree plastic(?) clips forming that rounded rectangular curve in the tube. An interesting look.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Those 90 degree tubing clips he using are made by Alphacool/Phobya. PPCS sells them.
> 
> EDIT: Didn't see the link above.


Guys,

I am happy that you still like the concept of the "horseshoe" tube design (2x 90 degrees angular fittings)...











You can find these here:
http://www.aquatuning.de/index.php/cat/c1034_angular.html

Still, i would appreciate your feedback on how to increase my flowrates, here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1382830/ideas-on-how-to-improve-flowrate-of-dual-d5-pump-loop

Is there any influence of the liquid gaining and loosing height 3 times within my loop in the flowrates?
Any fluid dynamics guru here?

Thanks for your kind words


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I want to join! even though my system isnt as impressive as some of the others here, its something
> I am using a zalman lq320
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my goal in life is to get a job, and make custom computers as a hobby and take the money from that and make the ultimate system for myself


Nice pics. Looks good!


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally figured out a way to plumb in a stealthy drain line on my D5, still have the in/out lines where I want them, and make it all fit under the intake fan. I had to make a stainless steel bracket for the base of the pump because the weight of all those fittings kept tipping it forward.


Not a bad idea.. I wouldn't mind a drain line on mine


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally figured out a way to plumb in a stealthy drain line on my D5, still have the in/out lines where I want them, and make it all fit under the intake fan. I had to make a stainless steel bracket for the base of the pump because the weight of all those fittings kept tipping it forward.


Wow, good job, looks nice !


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys I have the Swiftech MCP-655 special edition pump, (PWM) and when I run the pump, the water doesn't move but the pump sounds like its working. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> If the water isn't moving there likely is a large air bubble in the pump.
> 
> EDIT: Really? I can't delete a double post.
Click to expand...

how does one remedy this?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how does one remedy this?


Turn off, shake, turn on, repeat. At least that's how I've done all my pumps.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Turn off, shake, turn on, repeat. At least that's how I've done all my pumps.


Pretty much. Shake the case. Tilt the case to different angles. Power pump on run for a few seconds. Turn off. Repeat.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Pretty much. Shake the case. Tilt the case to different angles. Power pump on run for a few seconds. Turn off. Repeat.


hammer....


----------



## phillyd

So it's upside down, might that be the problem?


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So it's upside down, might that be the problem?


shouldn't matter once it's all circulating, but at start-up maybe.


----------



## phillyd

bout to flip it over


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys I have the Swiftech MCP-655 special edition pump, (PWM) and when I run the pump, the water doesn't move but the pump sounds like its working. Any ideas?


How is your loop set up? These pumps aren't self starting, so if gravity doesn't pull water to the pump it won't be able to start moving water. In other words, is your pump above your reservoir? If you have a bay pump/res then this shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## TwiggLe

Added an EK-FC7950 to my XSPC RayStorm 750 RS240 Kit.


----------



## Tnt6200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Bleeding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good! I really like the way you have the GPU bridge set up.


----------



## PCModderMike

Well I placed an order to change some things already, but figured I would post some "final" pics before those come in.


----------



## Joa3d43

Custom Loop question re *two MPC 655 in sequence*

....building a 2x ROG 'contraption' that will have quite a unique, shared custom water-loop....have two MPC 655 in sequence (sepearated by one of 3 rads)...what happens when one pump is on and one is off ? Does the one which is off block flow? I would think it certainly would restrict it some, but I'm wondering whether it would block it completely...this has to do with one mobo powering one pump, the other mobo powering the other in the common loop (or whether I should have two pumps on the same electrical circuit as well)...I add that when one system is loaded heavily, the other will be idle - and no GPUs in the loop. Tx in advance


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> How is your loop set up? These pumps aren't self starting, so if gravity doesn't pull water to the pump it won't be able to start moving water. In other words, is your pump above your reservoir? If you have a bay pump/res then this shouldn't be a problem.


The pump is about halfway up the heigh of the tube res.

I tried flipping it all over the place. I think the pump is broken, I'm gonna try to test it out of the loop.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys,

I just got some fans in for the mix 'n match 630's builds, and was trying to come up with a way to evaluate them for how effective they might be and how much work they might be expected to do.

Absolute quantification isn't needed, just how they compare to each other, and to other 120 and 140 fans I've used before and have at hand.

I got to thinking that the tach circuit in a fan is independent of the fan running under its own power, and that if I let the fan to be evaluated spin up a slave fan, how fast the slave fan spins would be a good indicator of how much energy the powered up fan was supplying.

To that end, I cobbled up a little adapter to measure the pulses from the slave fan's tach circuit and display the number on my Bench DMM and on the scope. The scope trace doesn't show up so well, but the DMM photos well and is easy to read the pulse per second count.

To convert that reading to RPM, multiply it by 30.

Since I had several 120 fans to test, and some 140's, I used a 120 as a slave fan, and a120 to 140 adapter to couple the 140's and a 120 phobia acrylic shroud to couple the 120's.

That gave a similar difference between the slave and test fans for both sizes, and eliminated errors that may have been the result of the larger blade hubs on the more powerful fans.

First I tried some 120 fans:

The test fan is the one on the right, and the slave is on the left.

For a baseline, I tried with a stock NZXT 120 case fan, it was unimpressive as expected, and the slave had to be nudged a bit to start spinning when I powered on the test fan: ~720 rpm



I've used the Aerocool shark fans in several builds, and having one handy, wanted to see how it compared: ~1140 rpm

]

Then I tried an old Thermaltake LED fan that used to be available at Radio Shack stores: ~1230 rpm



I've used the Silverstone FM121's before and consider them good air movers, so I put one to the test: ~1815 rpm



Now the bigger guns I was planning for the 630's builds, first up the Silverstone FM122 . . This puppy delivered: ~2130 rpm



The Koolance medium speed, 2600rpm, compared to their 4000 rpm monster was up next, and while I was expecting similar, if not better performance to the FM122, it was measurably less. It's definitely over spec'd, where the Silverstone is likely much closer to reality. ~1860 rpm



With most of the 120's at hand tested, I wanted to take a look at how the Prolimatech Vortex Aluminum compared. I have a lot of them in several builds and I've been happy with the performance, but something less subjective would be nice too. ~1230 rpm



I also tried the stock NZXT 140 case fans, a plain one and a LED one: both ~840 rpm





I should have tested an Aerocool shark 140, but didn't think of it until now, so I'll do it later.

Anyway, hope you find this bit of info worthwhile.

Darlene


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joa3d43*
> 
> Custom Loop question re *two MPC 655 in sequence*
> 
> ....building a 2x ROG 'contraption' that will have quite a unique, shared custom water-loop....have two MPC 655 in sequence (sepearated by one of 3 rads)...what happens when one pump is on and one is off ? Does the one which is off block flow? I would think it certainly would restrict it some, but I'm wondering whether it would block it completely...this has to do with one mobo powering one pump, the other mobo powering the other in the common loop (or whether I should have two pumps on the same electrical circuit as well)...I add that when one system is loaded heavily, the other will be idle - and no GPUs in the loop. Tx in advance


oops - answering my own post







- didn't want to do the 'blow test' out of fear of contamination, but decided to use a funnel and distilled water...very good flow-through on the MPC 655 even when powered off


----------



## LuckyNumber13

airbrushed my Titan block the other night


----------



## PCModderMike

Great work^^


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> airbrushed my Titan block the other night


Very nice, love the color!


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Great work^^


x2!! Nice job! The blue really pops!


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how does one remedy this?


Drop it down a flight of stairs. That's what I did with my Cosmos S. Just make sure the PSU isn't screwed into the case. Air bubbles are gone from all that tilting and rocking. Good to go.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Drop it down a flight of stairs. That's what I did with my Cosmos S. Just make sure the PSU isn't screwed into the case. Air bubbles are gone from all that tilting and rocking. Good to go.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*


Hahahaha I'm serious about dropping my case down a flight of stairs without the PSU screwed in, but not serious about him actually doing it to remove air bubbles









After an all-night LAN at a friends house I was carrying more like pulling, the case inside of it's box up the stairs. Handle ripped off of the box, the box opened up, and that's all I have to say about that.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Drop it down a flight of stairs. That's what I did with my Cosmos S. Just make sure the PSU isn't screwed into the case. Air bubbles are gone from all that tilting and rocking. Good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Lol!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Hahahaha I'm serious about dropping my case down a flight of stairs without the PSU screwed in, but not serious about him actually doing it to remove air bubbles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After an all-night LAN at a friends house I was carrying more like pulling, the case inside of it's box up the stairs. Handle ripped off of the box, the box opened up, and that's all I have to say about that.










Oh no....I think I would have been brought to tears had I been in the same situation lol


----------



## bobsaget541

I just got into water cooling, so to ease the transition I grabbed the h20-320 elite kit from swiftech. After getting it installed I'm concerned one of my hoses made too tight of a turn and is creating a flow restriction. Can someone tell me if I'm correct by looking at this picture? The preview is upside down but it's right side up if you click it for some reason.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget541*
> 
> I just got into water cooling, so to ease the transition I grabbed the h20-320 elite kit from swiftech. After getting it installed I'm concerned one of my hoses made too tight of a turn and is creating a flow restriction. Can someone tell me if I'm correct by looking at this picture? The preview is upside down but it's right side up if you click it for some reason.


Looks fine to me. Just looks like the fitting grabbed a little when you were tightening it. You could always back it off and try it again, but as I was told by BNeg, the fittings are all 1/4 ID and as long as your flow isn't restricted to less than that, your good.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Still a WIP.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130416-_MG_3239_zpseaabde83.jpg.html


How does that setup work for you? Never really understood how parallel CPU/GPU could work...

Looks badass though


----------



## friskiest

Added another 680 DCII TOP, Dominator Plats and the Supremacy block


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> How does that setup work for you? Never really understood how parallel CPU/GPU could work...
> 
> Looks badass though


The pressure drop over my CPU block is very similar to the pressure drop of each GPU block so it works well enough for me.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> How does that setup work for you? Never really understood how parallel CPU/GPU could work...
> 
> Looks badass though


----------



## wermad

I've had the cpu in parallel w/ the gpu(s) and it was a nightmare to bleed. Also, pressure dropped quite a bit. Switched everything to series and much, much better at bleeding air and maintaining great pressure.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Elder

Parallel works great...with 2x Koolance 450Strong 24V pump











or dual Swiftech 35X



or Iwaki RD30











more info about flow and pressure here...
http://forum.pclab.pl/topic/581684-Obsidian-LC-DARK-Project/page__st__560


----------



## bobsaget541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Looks fine to me. Just looks like the fitting grabbed a little when you were tightening it. You could always back it off and try it again, but as I was told by BNeg, the fittings are all 1/4 ID and as long as your flow isn't restricted to less than that, your good.


Thanks for the help, but I was perhaps unclear. I'm more concerned with the bend in the shorter tube being too tight, possibly creating a narrow passage for the fluid. Sorry if I'm not making sense.


----------



## Jetskyer

As long as there is no kink in the tubing you're fine. And as far as we can see your tubing has no problem with that bend at all.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The pump is about halfway up the heigh of the tube res.
> 
> I tried flipping it all over the place. I think the pump is broken, I'm gonna try to test it out of the loop.


I've had same problem with my pump. It was connected onto my drivebay res. I simply unscrewed it, took top part of pump off and removed this metal spinner thing which is only attached magnetically. Then placed that back in again hoping it works . . and it did! Give it a try


----------



## bundymania

Alphacool Res. with some Leds for different moods


----------



## _REAPER_

That is a nice RES good lord how much fluid does it hold


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Parallel works great...with 2x Koolance 450Strong 24V pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more info about flow and pressure here...
> http://forum.pclab.pl/topic/581684-Obsidian-LC-DARK-Project/page__st__560


Killer looking rig there! Is that ribbed thing with a window (centre right) a reservoir? Never seen one like that.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Alphacool Res. with some Leds for different moods
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ALL OF MY WANT! That is gorgeous. Was going to ask if it came in a smaller size but they only list a 340mm one on the site. Depending on space that might be going into my 900d.


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Killer looking rig there! Is that ribbed thing with a window (centre right) a reservoir? Never seen one like that.


It's LUND reservoir http://www.darmacz.pl/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=260


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> It's LUND reservoir http://www.darmacz.pl/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=260


Thanks! I just Google it and found it available in Aluminium also http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p8096_LUND-Pom-Plex-Reservoir.html


----------



## Elder

Anodized version may be available in several colors.
Quality of these reservoirs is amazing.
Piece of art.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> You can mix copper and nickel just fine, don't worry


Thanks. Sorry for bumping my original post got lost in between two picture filled posts so I knew no one saw it ha


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Anodized version may be available in several colors.
> Quality of these reservoirs is amazing.
> Piece of art.
> 
> ]


Thats even better! I dig the slightly Art Deco appearance. My Phobya Balancer may be on borrowed time.


----------



## dragam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> airbrushed my Titan block the other night


Looks amazing!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've had the cpu in parallel w/ the gpu(s) and it was a nightmare to bleed. Also, pressure dropped quite a bit. Switched everything to series and much, much better at bleeding air and maintaining great pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


+1
I'm all about series flow,parallel requires too many compromises and excessive pump power to make it work effectively.
I'm currently working the math on my bench regarding this after a pm convo with Red,expect a thread with the dynamics of both setups soon.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys, so are there any disadvantages with using a 5.25" res/pump? I'm thinking about getting this because I want the space in my Phantom 820 for rads. Also, I'm just wondering what do I use to connect my three 7950's together? They are going to be directly above each other. No empty slots in between. and how does the water flow through them? Like, how am I supposed to connect the tubes to them? I'm having a really hard time learning all of this stuff so some help would really be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, so are there any disadvantages with using a 5.25" res/pump? I'm thinking about getting this because I want the space in my Phantom 820 for rads. Also, I'm just wondering what do I use to connect my three 7950's together? They are going to be directly above each other. No empty slots in between. and how does the water flow through them? Like, how am I supposed to connect the tubes to them? I'm having a really hard time learning all of this stuff so some help would really be appreciated. Thanks.


Use bitspower d plugs for bridging the cards.
Bay res are a PITA to bleed but they do save space.


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, so are there any disadvantages with using a 5.25" res/pump? I'm thinking about getting this because I want the space in my Phantom 820 for rads. Also, I'm just wondering what do I use to connect my three 7950's together? They are going to be directly above each other. No empty slots in between. and how does the water flow through them? Like, how am I supposed to connect the tubes to them? I'm having a really hard time learning all of this stuff so some help would really be appreciated. Thanks.


5.25" res/pump ->sometimes (depends on the amount of free space) hard to fill,vibration level
Try parallel setup GPU (best flow) and connect Bitspower D-Plug (short,on pics is long rev)


----------



## MiiX

What cards are that?! :O


----------



## firstchoicett

My system .


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, so are there any disadvantages with using a 5.25" res/pump? I'm thinking about getting this because I want the space in my Phantom 820 for rads. Also, I'm just wondering what do I use to connect my three 7950's together? They are going to be directly above each other. No empty slots in between. and how does the water flow through them? Like, how am I supposed to connect the tubes to them? I'm having a really hard time learning all of this stuff so some help would really be appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 5.25" res/pump ->sometimes (depends on the amount of free space) hard to fill,vibration level
> Try parallel setup GPU (best flow) and connect Bitspower D-Plug (short,on pics is long rev)
Click to expand...

You get reduced flow thru the GPUs with a parallel setup,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction,they only way to increse flow is more pump speed.
You keep recommending parallel flow but you didn't ask what pump he has,kind of vital info to make that decision.

Btw,the pic you have posted is serial flow.......


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, so are there any disadvantages with using a 5.25" res/pump? I'm thinking about getting this because I want the space in my Phantom 820 for rads. Also, I'm just wondering what do I use to connect my three 7950's together? They are going to be directly above each other. No empty slots in between. and how does the water flow through them? Like, how am I supposed to connect the tubes to them? I'm having a really hard time learning all of this stuff so some help would really be appreciated. Thanks.


im looking at the 5.25" dual d5 vario pump res/combo...comes with rubber spacers to reduce noise vibration. Great space saver to, But after prevviously owning an AiO solution they are a bit of a pain to bleed but im with you, i want the space for rads (plus i like everything hidden







)


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You get reduced flow thru the GPUs with a parallel setup,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction,they only way to increse flow is more pump speed.
> You keep recommending parallel flow but you didn't ask what pump he has,kind of vital info to make that decision.
> 
> Btw,the pic you have posted is serial flow.......


I gave the quick pic to show GPU connected via D-Plug.
Who uses a weak pump with TRI SLI?

Ok,D-Plug in TRI SLI pic...


----------



## Akerue

just sharing my simple build....


----------



## dbthump

Subbing to this thread makes me mad as hell! Where the hell do you guys get all this money from!?!


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What cards are that?! :O


EVGA GTX 480 Hydro Coppers if I'm not mistaken. Very good looking card.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbthump*
> 
> Subbing to this thread makes me mad as hell! Where the hell do you guys get all this money from!?!


We steal, rob banks, or sell drugs.


----------



## dragam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akerue*
> 
> just sharing my simple build....


Loving the Yellow/Black Theme


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> We steal, rob banks, or sell drugs.


See, I'm not down for all that, I just run a simple "escort service" out of the alley next to my garage...










The call me Big Daddy T.

Thanks - T


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> We steal, rob banks, or sell drugs.


I sell myself


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I sell myself


OH NO YOU DON'T.

You're my strawberry bubblegum! Where's my cut from last night, HUH?!










Was that too much?

My bad, I'm just excited, because my CaseLabs S3 shipped yesterday!!!

Thanks -T


----------



## turbobnl

Lol, Find a sugar momma or daddy


----------



## dbthump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> We steal, rob banks, or sell drugs.


This thread is a drug for sure. I can't get enough and the more I do it the more I want!


----------



## PedroC1999

I havnt got one, but is a BONG style cooler allowed?


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Anodized version may be available in several colors.
> Quality of these reservoirs is amazing.
> Piece of art.


Is it me or are you mixing aluminum into your loop with that res? Or does it have a plexi interior or something?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> EVGA GTX 480 Hydro Coppers if I'm not mistaken. Very good looking card.


Thanks, would love to have them in a rig, just for aesthetics


----------



## firstchoicett

http://youtu.be/szFbhuJwjl4


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Is it me or are you mixing aluminum into your loop with that res? Or does it have a plexi interior or something?


Lund have POM tube inside not alu ofc.


----------



## Jetskyer

Thanks, that explains a lot. Definitely great looking res.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You get reduced flow thru the GPUs with a parallel setup,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction,they only way to increse flow is more pump speed.
> You keep recommending parallel flow but you didn't ask what pump he has,kind of vital info to make that decision.
> 
> Btw,the pic you have posted is serial flow.......
> 
> 
> 
> I gave the quick pic to show GPU connected via D-Plug.
> Who uses a weak pump with TRI SLI?
> 
> Ok,D-Plug in TRI SLI pic...
Click to expand...

You didn't take the time to find out what pump he has,serial flow could get away with a single D5 or high end Dec,a parallel flow setup requires much more pump power,all the loops you have posted have multiple top end pumps which the OP may not have.

Do you have a loop yourself?


----------



## Trolle BE

hey
i just started with watercooling my pc(i could buy a EK-KIt L360 very very cheap)
i am now looking to change the tubing,wich ones would you reccomend?


----------



## bomberjun

I've been on a parallel configuration for a quiet while and there is only a minimal temperature difference from a serial loop. However, going dual loop in a parallel is a different one since I noticed I had a 5'C drop from my full load before which is already a big improvement IMO.
2013(tri sli 680)


2012 rig(tri sli 580)



PS: please excuse my bad english.


----------



## MrGrievous

I have a question. If I was to have two D5 pumps and want to hook them up into a series setup but I want to use this top http://koolance.com/pump-nozzle-and-reservoir-base-for-pmp-450-60mm-od for each pump would that work hooking it to each other. Also will koolance's res be the only one that works with those tops?

If possible I would like to have a res on each top but am unsure how I would have it in series with two cylinder reservoirs.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I have a question. If I was to have two D5 pumps and want to hook them up into a series setup but I want to use this top http://koolance.com/pump-nozzle-and-reservoir-base-for-pmp-450-60mm-od for each pump would that work hooking it to each other. Also will koolance's res be the only one that works with those tops?
> 
> If possible I would like to have a res on each top but am unsure how I would have it in series with two cylinder reservoirs.


I am using that exact pump top, but only doing one Swiftech MCP655-PWM on it. I've heard great things about it, and I'm excited to get to see it!
I know you _want_ this one, but have you considered the twin tops, like the Bitspower Dual?
I will defer the res question to someone else, as I'm sectioning the res from the pump with tubing.

Thanks - T


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akerue*
> 
> just sharing my simple build....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Beautiful rig and great yellow and black theme which is achieved by excellent execution IMO









i love the black fluid (something so rare to see) and the yellow accents. Also well done CSQ loop too which isn't always easy to achieve.

only problem is the tube crossing near the RAM block (but this is just me) and the copper RAM block could have been nickel plated one but this is pure nitpicking and is barely noticeable at all.

Since i have the Maximus V Formula which has similar water cooling to the Asrock OC Formula (i.e. the Mosfet block with 3/8 barbs) i was wondering if you have any advice for making a loop order with such "problem". (to make the loop as clean as possible with tubing)


----------



## MrGrievous

Yea I have looked at all of the other dual pump tops and have found the koolance's single top version the better looking one


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Yea I have looked at all of the other dual pump tops and have found the koolance's single top version the better looking one


Totally agree with you.









Thanks - T


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK-Supremacy Clear CSQ:


Will the SLI bridges and GPU blocks have the same look?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I have a question. If I was to have two D5 pumps and want to hook them up into a series setup but I want to use this top http://koolance.com/pump-nozzle-and-reservoir-base-for-pmp-450-60mm-od for each pump would that work hooking it to each other. Also will koolance's res be the only one that works with those tops?
> 
> If possible I would like to have a res on each top but am unsure how I would have it in series with two cylinder reservoirs.


I have that very top and have them in series,they hook up just fine.



You dont need a res on each top tho...

I also had the rev1 model...these had ahabit of spitting out the pump and emptying your loop tho....


----------



## MrGrievous

Awesome your picture helped me get an idea on the size of the two tops in series, I was just thinking two reservoirs would look pretty ballin.


----------



## PedroC1999

How would i watercool a 7870 XT, with a Universal block and maybe some VRM blocks too?


----------



## phillyd

I've got a Swiftech MCP-655 pump that I've tried disassembling but I cannot get the outer part to twist off.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I've got a Swiftech MCP-655 pump that I've tried disassembling but I cannot get the outer part to twist off.


What outer part exactly?
Only the rotor comes off without tools.


----------



## phillyd

It's completely I assembled. The widest part with fins on it is supposed to spin off of the rest of the pump


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> It's completely I assembled. The widest part with fins on it is supposed to spin off of the rest of the pump


The ring isnt moving? Tried pipe grips and a vice? Failing that (if you have a new top) take a hammer to the top,it will break quite easily.


----------



## phillyd

I have vice grips but no vice


----------



## turbobnl

Use a flat head screw driver and pry the cap, use the base mount as leverage.







righty tightly, lefty loosie. took a picture for a better idea


----------



## CRosko42

Finally got my dust filters in today (demciflex for the top of my 800d + the bottom to supplement the stock filter for my only other intake fan) so I can run my computer and post this.

Took everything apart friday night and realized how terribly dirty everything was...



I scrubbed everything, cleaned every square inch of ever component including all of my blocks.

Swapped out my rx240 for a new ax360 with push/pull ap-15s.

Picked up some more fittings and some new advanced clear primoflex and this is the result:



I'm very happy with both the look and the function of the setup, temps dropped across the board by 10C+ idle and load moving from the push rx240 to p/p ax360.









Running positive pressure with the top intake to stop the dust from getting so bad and the filter should help, I don't want to spend 18+ hours cleaning my rig again anytime soon.









Can't get it to photograph correctly, but I added some mayhems clear/uv blue dye since I wanted a nice effect without the possibility of staining. Added a phobya uv led strip above and beside the side window and the effects are perfect, very happy with mayhems product. Wish I could get it to show up right in a photo, the effect is really nice imo.


----------



## rayweil

Can anyone help please?

Am thinking of water-cooling an i5 3570K with 2x reference GTX 670. Cooled by Noctua NH-D14 ATM. Temps are around the 75-80C when stressing with Prime95.

Would a XSPC D5 pump with twin bay 5.25" res drive an EX240, RX240 rads and 2x GTX670 GPU blocks comfortably? Or do I need 2 D5 pumps?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayweil*
> 
> Can anyone help please?
> 
> Am thinking of water-cooling an i5 3570K with 2x reference GTX 670. Cooled by Noctua NH-D14 ATM. Temps are around the 75-80C when stressing with Prime95.
> 
> Would a XSPC D5 pump with twin bay 5.25" res drive an EX240, RX240 rads and 2x GTX670 GPU blocks comfortably? Or do I need 2 D5 pumps?


It should be fine.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayweil*
> 
> Can anyone help please?
> 
> Am thinking of water-cooling an i5 3570K with 2x reference GTX 670. Cooled by Noctua NH-D14 ATM. Temps are around the 75-80C when stressing with Prime95.
> 
> Would a XSPC D5 pump with twin bay 5.25" res drive an EX240, RX240 rads and 2x GTX670 GPU blocks comfortably? Or do I need 2 D5 pumps?


one would be perfect and you could still add more. I have a gimpy ek dcp 4.0 with a 360 , 240 , i5 at 5ghz and a 670 oc'd with unlocked voltage and I have great temps and wouldnt hesitate getting another 670.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I use a single D5 to cool a 3960X, RIVE, and two Titans with 560 and 240 rads. I think you'll be fine.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> one would be perfect and ylu could still add more. I have a gimpy ek dcp 4.0 with a 360 , 240 , i5 at 5ghz and a 670 oc'd with unlocked voltage and I have great temps and wouldnt hesitate getting another 670.


never call our pumps gimpy. pretty damned good for the price.
http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Danger-Den_CPX-Pro-Pump-Review.html

and other than 5ghz, thats exactly what im doing


----------



## cafu02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> Finally got my dust filters in today (demciflex for the top of my 800d + the bottom to supplement the stock filter for my only other intake fan) so I can run my computer and post this.
> 
> Took everything apart friday night and realized how terribly dirty everything was...
> 
> 
> 
> I scrubbed everything, cleaned every square inch of ever component including all of my blocks.
> 
> Swapped out my rx240 for a new ax360 with push/pull ap-15s.
> 
> Picked up some more fittings and some new advanced clear primoflex and this is the result:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very happy with both the look and the function of the setup, temps dropped across the board by 10C+ idle and load moving from the push rx240 to p/p ax360.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running positive pressure with the top intake to stop the dust from getting so bad and the filter should help, I don't want to spend 18+ hours cleaning my rig again anytime soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't get it to photograph correctly, but I added some mayhems clear/uv blue dye since I wanted a nice effect without and possibility of staining. Added a phobya uv led strip above and beside the side window and the effects are perfect, very happy with mayhems product. Wish I could get it to show up right in a photo, the effect is really nice imo.


Spring cleaning is always a good thing








I like it


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> never call our pumps gimpy. pretty damned good for the price.
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Danger-Den_CPX-Pro-Pump-Review.html
> 
> and other than 5ghz, thats exactly what im doing


Yeah you are right. I just really dislike the size and shape but I really can't complain.


----------



## longroadtrip

Think you can get a waterblock for this?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Think you can get a waterblock for this?


You're the guy that paid the $96,100.00 for it?
Wow!
Ask EK if they'll do you a one-off block for it.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> You're the guy that paid the $96,100.00 for it?
> Wow!
> Ask EK if they'll do you a one-off block for it.


Not me...just been following it....I couldn't pay that much for an engineering sample if I wanted to!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Who would?


----------



## MrGrievous

apparently the one who did pay that much for it


----------



## MrGrievous

Oops double post


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

You sure it wasn't just a deadbeat bidder?


----------



## wermad

So, how you all like the new Supremacy "clean" edition? I likes the clear plexi one


----------



## tiborrr12

Hehe, 100k







I have like two sitting on my desk


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, how you all like the new Supremacy "clean" edition? I likes the clear plexi one


I dont like it. The frosted plexi was much better and gave fluid a really nice look.


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Hehe, 100k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have like two sitting on my desk


DO YOU ACTUALLY


----------



## tiborrr12

Sure, thanks to one specific AMD AIB partner


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> I dont like it. The frosted plexi was much better and gave fluid a really nice look.


I gotta say I completely agree. I'm one of the few who actually really likes the csq design.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I gotta say I completely agree. I'm one of the few who actually really likes the csq design.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> I dont like it. The frosted plexi was much better and gave fluid a really nice look.


Original CSQ is still available and will remain so until the whole Supremacy goes EOL


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I gotta say I completely agree. I'm one of the few who actually really likes the csq design.


I love it too I just ordered a full (kinda) system of it Supremacy and GTX 670 block, and x-res. I cannot wait for it to come in


----------



## bomberjun

good job for the nickel plexi.. I like it.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Original CSQ is still available and will remain so until the whole Supremacy goes EOL


I'm far too poor for that after doing my latest build but hey if EK wants to sponsor me I would be more than happy to switch all my stuff over to csq. *wink wink*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> I love it too I just ordered a full (kinda) system of it Supremacy and GTX 670 block, and x-res. I cannot wait for it to come in


I'm kinda jelly


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I'm kinda jelly


I really love your build though I dont know if I ever posted in it but followed it from the start







I will have to post some pics here when mine is all done


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, how you all like the new Supremacy "clean" edition? I likes the clear plexi one


I think they both look rather boring. Especially the acetal top. Still prefer the Supreme HF any day of the week.


----------



## PedroC1999

Could you guys take a look?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1383397/watercooling-a-7870-xt/0_40#post_19780108


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## DonPablo83

Hey folks. Im in need of some advice from subscribers here. Im planning a wc (my first) and im uncertain if I should go dual or single loop. My cpu is going to be [email protected] 5ghz and im running 3x overclocked titans (modded bios @1.21v). Thats a whole lot of heat. The rads ive selected are 2x 560 sr-1. My question is should I split the loop from cpu to gpu or will a singleloop do the trick with the rads I've selected? Im going for quiet and cool (hence over kill rads with low rpm fans). Any advice would be greatly appreciated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> Hey folks. Im in need of some advice from subscribers here. Im planning a wc (my first) and im uncertain if I should go dual or single loop. My cpu is going to be [email protected] 5ghz and im running 3x overclocked titans (modded bios @1.21v). Thats a whole lot of heat. The rads ive selected are 2x 560 sr-1. My question is should I split the loop from cpu to gpu or will a singleloop do the trick with the rads I've selected? Im going for quiet and cool (hence over kill rads with low rpm fans). Any advice would be greatly appreciated


Single loop is fine. I had four GTX 580 3gb, these suck more power and produce more heat then your Titans will. I had *one* ddc 3.25x running (still running that) through three Monsta 480 rads







. For cool and quiet, look for some high static pressure fans. I'm running my fans in low voltage (40% power) and I have great temps.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


If the board has green accents instead of red this would be perfect!


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Single loop is fine. I had four GTX 580 3gb, these suck more power and produce more heat then your Titans will. I had *one* ddc 3.25x running (still running that) through three Monsta 480 rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . For cool and quiet, look for some high static pressure fans. I'm running my fans in low voltage (40% power) and I have great temps.


Thanks buddy. Was concerned that the loop will run through the cpu then hit the gpus and heat them up a little faster. Looking at noctua 140mm fans. I hear they're quiet and perform well. The rads are 9fpi so do u think high static pressure fans will make a difference (noctua fans have decent static pressure from what I read).


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Hehe, 100k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have like two sitting on my desk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> DO YOU ACTUALLY


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Sure, thanks to one specific AMD AIB partner


Pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## MrGrievous

Oops guess I can't spoiler tag it on my iPhone







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


This is awesome, love it







CSQ was awesome with the frosted plexi but the circles were not to my liking


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You didn't take the time to find out what pump he has,serial flow could get away with a single D5 or high end Dec,a parallel flow setup requires much more pump power,all the loops you have posted have multiple top end pumps which the OP may not have.
> 
> Do you have a loop yourself?


Yep...testing in two rigs,but this is dead end ...like dual loop,tri loop etc...nothing special.
This solution for my is generally for look not for best working LC system.

Testbench







TYR X2000F rev (with ext 2x HWLabs Black Ice SR1 560 rad)



Many users say "total parallel loop can not work".
WORKS.
You must have a CPU block with a very small restrictions (I have installed Iceforce)
and a strong pump (dual Koolance 450 Strong)
Why have built such a system?
Because I wanted to see how it works ... that's all.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Pics or it didn't happen.


NDA.


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Yep...testing in two rigs,but this is dead end ...like dual loop,tri loop etc...nothing special.
> This solution for my is generally for look not for best working LC system.
> 
> Testbench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TYR X2000F rev (with ext 2x HWLabs Black Ice SR1 560 rad)
> 
> 
> 
> Many users say "total parallel loop can not work".
> WORKS.
> You must have a CPU block with a very small restrictions (I have installed Iceforce)
> and a strong pump (dual Koolance 450 Strong)
> Why have built such a system?
> Because I wanted to see how it works ... that's all.


How do u find the dual sr-560's performance? Ur components are very similar to what I had in mind for my upcoming build (minus the insane, but stylish loop). Looking at a single loop with dual 450 pumps. Also, what fans do u have for the rads? Great work!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, how you all like the new Supremacy "clean" edition? I likes the clear plexi one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think they both look rather boring. Especially the acetal top. Still prefer the Supreme HF any day of the week.
Click to expand...

+1
I am a big fan of the old HF,looked and performed great!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> NDA.


Was _gonna_ say that....

I scoff at those legal beagles. Snapchat that sucker, and they'll never know!

Thanks - T


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> How do u find the dual sr-560's performance? Ur components are very similar to what I had in mind for my upcoming build (minus the insane, but stylish loop). Looking at a single loop with dual 450 pumps. Also, what fans do u have for the rads? Great work!


THX








8x Noiseblocker PRO PK2 (push)

Performance of two SR1 560 is impressive, especially since it is not powerful PC ...
maximum power consumption is 625W (games) to 720W (BarsWf)
Actually, it was ... because components are changed,these are old pics.

I have an additional third radiator in 800D (XSPC RX480)
but this is overkill (it was removed)







Well ... I resigned from my 800D (too small to accommodate 2x SR1 560) but ... I have a solution.
Work in progress.


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Original CSQ is still available and will remain so until the whole Supremacy goes EOL


Any chance you'll be updating the Spin Bay Res with the new design philosophy?


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> THX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8x Noiseblocker PRO PK2 (push)
> 
> Performance of two SR1 560 is impressive, especially since it is not powerful PC ...
> maximum power consumption is 625W (games) to 720W (BarsWf)
> Actually, it was ... because components are changed,these are old pics.
> 
> I have an additional third radiator in 800D (XSPC RX480)
> but this is overkill (it was removed)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well ... I resigned from my 800D (too small to accommodate 2x SR1 560) but ... I have a solution.
> Work in progress.


Sweet...mother...of...god...


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Yep...testing in two rigs,but this is dead end ...like dual loop,tri loop etc...nothing special.
> This solution for my is generally for look not for best working LC system.
> 
> Testbench
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TYR X2000F rev (with ext 2x HWLabs Black Ice SR1 560 rad)
> 
> 
> 
> Many users say "total parallel loop can not work".
> WORKS.
> You must have a CPU block with a very small restrictions (I have installed Iceforce)
> and a strong pump (dual Koolance 450 Strong)
> Why have built such a system?
> Because I wanted to see how it works ... that's all.


How do you find those lian-li test benches?? was thinking of one for my test bench build..


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Stop that is 100% gorgeous


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> NDA.












Surely saying you have them alone is breaking the NDA? Then again I guess it depends on the terms of the contract..


----------



## phillyd

So my dad, being an engineer, had me put my pump completely below the res. and that fixed it.

So my loop is up and leak-free, gonna overclock today, I'm gonna buy some liquid ultra and delid soon.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> THX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8x Noiseblocker PRO PK2 (push)
> Performance of two SR1 560 is impressive, especially since it is not powerful PC ...
> maximum power consumption is 625W (games) to 720W (BarsWf)
> Actually, it was ... because components are changed,these are old pics.
> I have an additional third radiator in 800D (XSPC RX480)
> but this is overkill (it was removed)
> 
> 
> 
> Well ... I resigned from my 800D (too small to accommodate 2x SR1 560) but ... I have a solution.
> Work in progress


Dual 560 Rad's.....







What kind of case is that?


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So my dad, being an engineer, had me put my pump completely below the res. and that fixed it.
> 
> So my loop is up and leak-free, gonna overclock today, *I'm gonna buy some liquid ultra and delid soon*.


Make sure you use this guide, a *lot* safer than using a razor blade.

Planning to delid mine at the end of the month.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Dual 560 Rad's.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of case is that?


I'm going to guess it's a Lian Li PC-V1000, heavily modified. Either that, or custom made.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So my dad, being an engineer, had me put my pump completely below the res. and that fixed it.
> 
> So my loop is up and leak-free, gonna overclock today, I'm gonna buy some liquid ultra and delid soon.


Yay









If you're de-lidding, any reason why you're going with the Liquid Ultra and not the Liquid Pro? IME, the "Pro" is worth a few degrees over the "Ultra", which is odd considering the names of the two, but who knows...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Yay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're de-lidding, any reason why you're going with the Liquid Ultra and not the Liquid Pro? IME, the "Pro" is worth a few degrees over the "Ultra", which is odd considering the names of the two, but who knows...


No most tests have shown that their is no temp difference between the two. We use Ultra because it is easier to apply and take off. Pro can be a b**ch to get on and off. That is why I always recommend to use CLU over CLP.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Make sure you use this guide, a *lot* safer than using a razor blade.


Completely missed that! Brilliant way to delid.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, so are there any disadvantages with using a 5.25" res/pump? I'm thinking about getting this because I want the space in my Phantom 820 for rads. Also, I'm just wondering what do I use to connect my three 7950's together? They are going to be directly above each other. No empty slots in between. and how does the water flow through them? Like, how am I supposed to connect the tubes to them? I'm having a really hard time learning all of this stuff so some help would really be appreciated. Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You get reduced flow thru the GPUs with a parallel setup,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction,they only way to increse flow is more pump speed.
> You keep recommending parallel flow but you didn't ask what pump he has,kind of vital info to make that decision.
> 
> Btw,the pic you have posted is serial flow.......


I'm going to be using this res/pump. I would really like to be able to do something like this:



Would that require me to use two pumps? I plan on using an external 480mm monsta rad, a top 360mm ST30 rad, and a bottom 240mm monsta rad so I'm pretty sure cooling won't be a problem. I just like the look of that setup. It's very clean looking. I still have so much to learn, but that is why I'm asking questions. Thanks for your help.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Yay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're de-lidding, any reason why you're going with the Liquid Ultra and not the Liquid Pro? IME, the "Pro" is worth a few degrees over the "Ultra", which is odd considering the names of the two, but who knows...
> 
> 
> 
> No most tests have shown that their is no temp difference between the two. We use Ultra because it is easier to apply and take off. Pro can be a b**ch to get on and off. That is why I always recommend to use CLU over CLP.
Click to expand...

This exactly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Make sure you use this guide, a *lot* safer than using a razor blade.
> 
> Planning to delid mine at the end of the month.


Yeah I saw this after a guy killed his 3770k, definitely gonna do this.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, so are there any disadvantages with using a 5.25" res/pump? I'm thinking about getting this because I want the space in my Phantom 820 for rads. Also, I'm just wondering what do I use to connect my three 7950's together? They are going to be directly above each other. No empty slots in between. and how does the water flow through them? Like, how am I supposed to connect the tubes to them? I'm having a really hard time learning all of this stuff so some help would really be appreciated. Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You get reduced flow thru the GPUs with a parallel setup,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction,they only way to increse flow is more pump speed.
> You keep recommending parallel flow but you didn't ask what pump he has,kind of vital info to make that decision.
> 
> Btw,the pic you have posted is serial flow.......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> This exactly.
> Yeah I saw this after a guy killed his 3770k, definitely gonna do this.


Yep, I killed the IMC on my first 3570k with the razor. I was successful with the blade on my 3770k though. Wish I knew about this method before. Definetly going to do it on my next chip!


----------



## Bart

Maybe I'm old school, or just plain old, but I would have trouble using a hammer and vice on an expensive CPU. Hell, I'd be so nervous it would take 5 years off my life doing that!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yep, I killed the IMC on my first 3570k with the razor. I was successful with the blade on my 3770k though. Wish I knew about this method before. Definetly going to do it on my next chip!


Ya'll linked the "Thor's Hammer & grandpa's vise" approach, didn't you?









Thanks - T


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Maybe I'm old school, or just plain old, but I would have trouble using a hammer and vice on an expensive CPU. Hell, I'd be so nervous it would take 5 years off my life doing that!


My thoughts also, thats why I used fishing line. Got it started with a razor blade on a corner and just used fishing line. Took a while to do it but came out fine. O yea you gotta wrap the ends of the line around something (not your fingers either)


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Maybe I'm old school, or just plain old, but I would have trouble using a hammer and vice on an expensive CPU. Hell, I'd be so nervous it would take 5 years off my life doing that!


I'm still young, so I have plenty of years to waste with hammers and CPU's.


----------



## PedroC1999

Why not use a calibrated hammer? Like the one below...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I was joking, its what Jeremy Clarkson calls his hammer


----------



## SmokinWaffle




----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> No most tests have shown that their is no temp difference between the two. We use Ultra because it is easier to apply and take off. Pro can be a b**ch to get on and off. That is why I always recommend to use CLU over CLP.


Ah, well, ya learn something new every day! To be fair, the Z77 platform is not my strong point (I am an X79 guy







), so my experience is less, and when it comes to de-lidding, it's very limited. Thank you for correcting me, though! Got a friend who is getting ready to de-lid, so I'm glad you corrected me before I led him astray!


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> How do you find those lian-li test benches?? was thinking of one for my test bench build..


Lian Li PITSTOP T60 Open Air Test Bench is easy to buy.
Cheap,light,beautiful piece of anodised alu.
Not for hard work with LN2 or CO2 cooling (for this better solution is DIMASTECH)



Most often I use the AC version LL T60 for this ...





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Dual 560 Rad's.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of case is that?


You ask about dual unibody made of 5mm aluminum?
This is my latest project, full custom case.
BLACK ICE Project
http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=ldx8Sllp



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'm going to be using this res/pump. I would really like to be able to do something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Would that require me to use two pumps? I plan on using an external 480mm monsta rad, a top 360mm ST30 rad, and a bottom 240mm monsta rad so I'm pretty sure cooling won't be a problem. I just like the look of that setup. It's very clean looking. I still have so much to learn, but that is why I'm asking questions. Thanks for your help.


Send PM please ... This project is a long story.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Ah, well, ya learn something new every day! To be fair, the Z77 platform is not my strong point (I am an X79 guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), so my experience is less, and when it comes to de-lidding, it's very limited. Thank you for correcting me, though! Got a friend who is getting ready to de-lid, so I'm glad you corrected me before I led him astray!


No problem buddy! That's what makes life so fun! You learn something new everyday


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Maybe I'm old school, or just plain old, but I would have trouble using a hammer and vice on an expensive CPU. Hell, I'd be so nervous it would take 5 years off my life doing that!


As someone who is older than you







, I delidded two 3770k with a razor. It is not that hard and it makes Ivy a great chip, although I would consider the new hammer/vise method now.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> As someone who is older than you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I delidded two 3770k with a razor. It is not that hard and it makes Ivy a great chip, although I would consider the new hammer/vise method now.


Any idea if this method is valid with SB-E chips? Not that I'd be nuts enough to consider this.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Any idea if this method is valid with SB-E chips? Not that I'd be nuts enough to consider this.


Delidding is for chips with glue and TIM, not soldered chips, so you would only want/need to do it with Ivy.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Delidding is for chips with glue and TIM, not soldered chips, so you would only want/need to do it with Ivy.


Ahh, I didn't realize SB-E IHS's were soldered on. I just learned something new, thanks!


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Ahh, I didn't realize SB-E IHS's were soldered on. I just learned something new, thanks!


Everything AMD and Intel are soldered, except IVY and some earlier Pentiums/Celerons.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, so are there any disadvantages with using a 5.25" res/pump? I'm thinking about getting this because I want the space in my Phantom 820 for rads. Also, I'm just wondering what do I use to connect my three 7950's together? They are going to be directly above each other. No empty slots in between. and how does the water flow through them? Like, how am I supposed to connect the tubes to them? I'm having a really hard time learning all of this stuff so some help would really be appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You get reduced flow thru the GPUs with a parallel setup,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction,they only way to increase flow is more pump speed.
> You keep recommending parallel flow but you didn't ask what pump he has,kind of vital info to make that decision.
> 
> Btw,the pic you have posted is serial flow.......
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm going to be using this res/pump. I would really like to be able to do something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Would that require me to use two pumps? I plan on using an external 480mm monsta rad, a top 360mm ST30 rad, and a bottom 240mm monsta rad so I'm pretty sure cooling won't be a problem. I just like the look of that setup. It's very clean looking. I still have so much to learn, but that is why I'm asking questions. Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

He is using a full parallel loop,It requires excessive pump power and is not particularly efficient,you will benefit greatly from 2 pumps in series if you are set on this route.
Personally,I would recommend a single series loop...

Just to prove to Niko that i dont hate him or EK.....



EK FC blocks and back plates for Arctic Water.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*


You need to have a look around/post in this club,









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Everything AMD and Intel are soldered, except IVY and some earlier Pentiums/Celerons.


Incorrect.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He is using a full parallel loop,It requires excessive pump power and is not particularly efficient,you will benefit greatly from 2 pumps in series if you are set on this route.
> Personally,I would recommend a single series loop...
> 
> Just to prove to Niko that i dont hate him or EK.....
> 
> 
> 
> EK FC blocks and back plates for Arctic Water.


Just saw that on Facebook....


----------



## PedroC1999

Im having a bad day today, the 3rd time ive been corrected, I must be losing it...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Lian Li PITSTOP T60 Open Air Test Bench is easy to buy.
> Cheap,light,beautiful piece of anodised alu.
> Not for hard work with LN2 or CO2 cooling (for this better solution is DIMASTECH)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most often I use the AC version LL T60 for this ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You ask about dual unibody made of 5mm aluminum?
> This is my latest project, full custom case.
> BLACK ICE Project
> http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=ldx8Sllp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Send PM please ... This project is a long story.


Thanks! Looks like it's going to be an interesting build. Also, nice collection of RAM.


----------



## PinzaC55

I know this is an old question but getting ready for my latest upgrade I have found that the tubing I used (4 months ago) has faded so that the Mayhems X1 UV Red coolant now looks more of a sickly orange colour. I know it isn't the coolant because it still looks good in the reservoir. Since I have to replace some tubing anyway can anyone suggest a 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing which is colour stable? Doesn't matter whether clear or red, hopefully available in the UK.


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I know this is an old question but getting ready for my latest upgrade I have found that the tubing I used (4 months ago) has faded so that the Mayhems X1 UV Red coolant now looks more of a sickly orange colour. I know it isn't the coolant because it still looks good in the reservoir. Since I have to replace some tubing anyway can anyone suggest a 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing which is colour stable? Doesn't matter whether clear or red, hopefully available in the UK.


Primochill Advanced LRT. Crystal clear, and will stay that way.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Im planning on having a dual 180mm rad in my next build with two silverstone ap181 fans in push and was looking at fans for pull, i was wondering how much worse in degrees would a Phobya G-Silent 18 700rpm 32mm compared to a SilverStone (SST-AP181) 1200rpm like how many degrees do you think?

and how much worse would a Phobya G-Silent 18 700rpm 25mm be?


----------



## joejoe69

I de-lidded mine with a trapezoid shaped razor in less than a minute. It's all about knowing where the die is on the pcb/waffle and starting at the corner ends first. Also, the angle that you hold the razor blade is another factor, and that's why you don't use a razor blade with a handle of any kind.

I'm done, continue on with the porn...


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT. Crystal clear, and will stay that way.


Thanks , googled it and found it on Specialtech.


----------



## longroadtrip

Gearing up for my new Case Labs S3 that arrives Saturday...







This came in today...


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


It's gorgeous...
The following are my feelings while observing this image.

ldkjsdiopavneaela;ikdsafhuv;oaebnva;elfkashjdf

Something along those lines.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think I speak for everyone when I say MORE PICS PLEASE lol







good job ..I love green. my next build is prob going to be green n some other colour
but def. green.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I think I speak for everyone when I say MORE PICS PLEASE lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good job ..I love green. my next build is prob going to be green n some other colour
> but def. green.


Here ya go...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1380883/build-log-900csq-900d-maxed-out-everything-watercooled-acrylic-tubing


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Gearing up for my new Case Labs S3 that arrives Saturday...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This came in today...


----------



## sakerfalcon

Not a millimeter more to spare.











The 800D can fit two 60mm thick rads, both in push-pull configuration, making a super sandwich.


----------



## bundymania

Nickel plated by me at home :


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Gearing up for my new Case Labs S3 that arrives Saturday...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This came in today...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good. Did you get black or white?


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Nickel plated by me at home :
> -snip-


I was thinkin about getting those blocks and doing that myself! Then I figured I really probably didn't need to cool my ram








- It looks swell however!


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> I was thinkin about getting those blocks and doing that myself! *Then I figured I really probably didn't need to cool my ram*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - It looks swell however!


A friend asked me in a pub recently "why do you want to build such a large and powerful computer, far more powerful than it needs to be?". I was lost for an answer. It troubled me all the way home. I got in , pressed the "POWER" button and it sprang into life.
Then I realised! "The next upgrade!"


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good. Did you get black or white?


Went with the black...







Apparently it's not arriving until Tuesday now...


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Went with the black...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently it's not arriving until Tuesday now...


My S3 is due in Tues as well... I got Tuxedo (B&W) though...

Thanks - T


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> My S3 is due in Tues as well... I got Tuxedo (B&W) though...
> 
> Thanks - T


Very nice!







I really liked the tuxedo look, wish it would have matched what I am going to do...


----------



## bomberjun

Sharing my dual loop build inside the cosmos 2.


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Sharing my dual loop build inside the cosmos 2.


Cant go wrong with black and red. Looks awesome!


----------



## longroadtrip

^^ Very nice!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Sharing my dual loop build inside the cosmos 2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The paint job catches my eye more than the loop does, sexy.


----------



## bomberjun

@all thank you so much!









I used straight anzhal ferrari red car paint and made 3 stages of buffing my case.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> @all thank you so much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used straight anzhal ferrari red car paint and made 3 stages of buffing my case.


That looks gorgeous man!! You sir did it RIGHT!!!


----------



## K4IKEN

The hard work paid off, it looks awesome.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Sharing my dual loop build inside the cosmos 2.


Seriously looking awesome! very clean!
its just that I'm disappointed that there is no window to show the amazing look


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Seriously. What was CM thinking about when they designed the Cosmos II anyway? No window and a cramped interior relative to the enormous exterior? Such a beautiful case too...


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Seriously. What was CM thinking about when they designed the Cosmos II anyway? No window and a cramped interior relative to the enormous exterior? Such a beautiful case too...


totally agree. i think it is just for the "if we can make a big case we would with sport themed bars".

but on the other hand, The corsair 900D is just epic for its size and what it can accommodate. can't wait to see some loops in that little beast.


Spoiler: It's not caselabs



(yes, i know that a caselabs is probably a much better choice but Corsair has the normal case features that caselabs lacks and for some it would be easier to get the corsair one locally than order the caselabs for ridicules shipping costs+customs)



but TBH i think George (the guy who designs the Corsair cases) could have done a better job on the case top aesthetically or is it just me?


----------



## Dzuks

I'm thinking about cutting out the HDD case in my Haf X. Do any of you guys know of a tool that will help me achieve this?
Thanks


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I'm thinking about cutting out the HDD case in my Haf X. Do any of you guys know of a tool that will help me achieve this?
> Thanks


Should be just riveted in place. So a drill is more than likely all you need.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I'm thinking about cutting out the HDD case in my Haf X. Do any of you guys know of a tool that will help me achieve this?
> Thanks


Just drill them. Sometimes they will turn so you need to hold the other end with pliers.

Getting it back on though you will need rivets and a riveter. Small nuts and bolts would work to.


----------



## morencyam

A putty knife and hammer work too. Just position the knife on the side of the rivet head and smack it with the hammer. It should knock the head off and you can poke the rivet stem through the hole the rest of the way


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> A putty knife and hammer work too. Just position the knife on the side of the rivet head and smack it with the hammer. It should knock the head off and you can poke the rivet stem through the hole the rest of the way


I use a 1/4" chisel for the same effect,goes thru like butter


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I'm thinking about cutting out the HDD case in my Haf X. Do any of you guys know of a tool that will help me achieve this?
> Thanks


Just did it, here http://www.overclock.net/t/392179/the-official-cooler-master-haf-x-932-922-912-club/20990 drill the 6 bottom rivets out (they are only aluminium and very soft - I used a hand drill ) then use a hacksaw blade to remove the heads of the rivets at the top. Unscrew the middle 2 bracing rods and you can bend the cage enough to get it out. You need to remove the front fan BTW and any HDD's in the hot swap bay.


----------



## phillyd

Well I'm watercooled now, more on my build log
www.overclock.net/t/1266808


----------



## PedroC1999

That GPU is begging to be drenched.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> That GPU is begging to be drenched.


why do you say this?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> That GPU is begging to be drenched.


It's gonna get one of these fine blocks.


----------



## audioholic

Getting closer..just dropped about 200 more bucks on fittings and fans :O


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> why do you say this?


Think he's just suggesting including the GPU into the loop...


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Getting closer..just dropped about 200 more bucks on fittings and fans :O


That's looking good


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> That's looking good


Im starting to like more and more the horizontal motherboard layouts. Looking forward to seeing this bad boy


----------



## nismoskyline

I have a question about the frozen Q bay reservoirs. i know they accommodate D5 pumps, but are there any accessories that i need to attach a D5 to it?
specifically this reservoir: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_708&products_id=32044
if there are any specific D5 pumps or accessories you recommend please say so. thanks in advance


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> I have a question about the frozen Q bay reservoirs. i know they accommodate D5 pumps, but are there any accessories that i need to attach a D5 to it?
> specifically this reservoir: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_708&products_id=32044
> if there are any specific D5 pumps or accessories you recommend please say so. thanks in advance


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1164&products_id=37356
Need this to mount the pump


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> Im starting to like more and more the horizontal motherboard layouts. Looking forward to seeing this bad boy


I agree, I was just looking at the case lab s3 mercury case and. My mind is telling me noooo, but my body, my body is telling me yes.


----------



## TwentyCent

Ha everytime I look at their website, it seems they have a new model in the line-up ^^

I need a mini ITX board already!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> I agree, I was just looking at the case lab s3 mercury case and. My mind is telling me noooo, but my body, my body is telling me yes.


I know! I have a burning desire..... must.... have!

Switch 810 has gotta go! LOL


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I know! I have a burning desire..... must.... have!
> 
> Switch 810 has gotta go! LOL


is it a crime that I get a new case just after heavily mod my switch a month and a half ago?








that 900D.... crying... for.... mod.... must... resist....


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> I agree, I was just looking at the case lab s3 mercury case and. My mind is telling me noooo, but my body, my body is telling me yes.


Hmmm... that is though. If you follow your mind, good things can happen but if you follow your body, you'll get pleasure.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> is it a crime that I get a new case just after heavily mod my switch a month and a half ago?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that 900D.... crying... for.... mod.... must... resist....


Yes, it is crime indeed, punishable by expensive water cooling.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> is it a crime that I get a new case just after heavily mod my switch a month and a half ago?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that 900D.... crying... for.... mod.... must... resist....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yes, it is crime indeed, punishable by expensive water cooling.


LOL what he said^^^


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering what would be a better avenue would be









Looking for a replacement pump in "My Current Project" rig. Wanting something quite yet powerful enough.

I am tossing between the XSPC D5 (not sure to go the dual bay res combo or stand alone pump) Laing DDC 3.25 or even if needed the Swiftech MCP35X

Just wondering what peoples personal experiences are?


----------



## Elevenate

Just put my new case together, but it felt so mehh so i ordered a complete new "real" watercooling system.
Below shows my current moded khüler system BUT stay tuned, winter is coming


----------



## PedroC1999

Would a RX360mm kit justify its temperature devrease from a H100i?


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

my x20 750 dual bay res\pump combo died on me last week, replacement arrived yesterday... what should I be doing ... shutting down every night, or jut let her run 24\7 ... ran for 10 minutes with cap off tapping lines to get all air bubbles out, only way I know its running now is the slight vibration from the res. Advice appreciated. Thanks


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering what would be a better avenue would be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for a replacement pump in "My Current Project" rig. Wanting something quite yet powerful enough.
> 
> I am tossing between the XSPC D5 (not sure to go the dual bay res combo or stand alone pump) Laing DDC 3.25 or even if needed the Swiftech MCP35X
> 
> Just wondering what peoples personal experiences are?


will be interesting to find out, d5 is quite but i think i need 2. will have to redo my loop build though!


----------



## Seanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Sharing my dual loop build inside the cosmos 2.


Build looks great, looking at some of your previous pictures of your build, it looks like your red dye was more vibrant. Did you change your water?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> my x20 750 dual bay res\pump combo died on me last week, replacement arrived yesterday... what should I be doing ... shutting down every night, or jut let her run 24\7 ... ran for 10 minutes with cap off tapping lines to get all air bubbles out, only way I know its running now is the slight vibration from the res. Advice appreciated. Thanks


I have the same pump in my wife's rig, it's over a year old and still going strong. Although, the x20 750 res/pump has a bad rap, and xspc knows it. That's why they started selling the res with a D5 pump. Personally, I turn off my rigs when I'm not using it. I'd probably turn off you're computer to help extend the life of that pump. But that's just my opinion.


----------



## GhostDog99

here a update to my rig still more parts coming 

*Befor*

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4195.jpg.html

*After*

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4426.jpg.html
http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4420.jpg.html
http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4418.jpg.html
http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4416.jpg.html
http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4414.jpg.html


----------



## bomberjun

^









Love the loop..


----------



## MKHunt

It's kind of begging for sleeved cables isn't it.









Those and a PSU cover.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> here a update to my rig still more parts coming
> 
> *Befor*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4195.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> *After*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4426.jpg.html
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4420.jpg.html
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4418.jpg.html
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4416.jpg.html
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4414.jpg.html


A little bit of crystal link does wonders...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> It's kind of begging for sleeved cables isn't it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those and a PSU cover.


Eh, definitely doesn't look bad. Some sleeved cabling would finish it off nicely, but as is looks really good IMO.


----------



## Enrique602013

Hi everybody Mi first testing!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> here a update to my rig still more parts coming


Mostly greatly improved, gj.








But, and not to be mean at all, but I do not like that whole section of extensions put together. It doesn't look good as there are so many breaks, and it sags. Maybe try doing a piece of solid acrylic tubing instead?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Mostly greatly improved, gj.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, and not to be mean at all, but I do not like that whole section of extensions put together. It doesn't look good as there are so many breaks, and it sags. Maybe try doing a piece of solid acrylic tubing instead?


This, then it would be perfection


----------



## bomberjun

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanage*





Build looks great, looking at some of your previous pictures of your build, it looks like your red dye was more vibrant. Did you change your water?

I added more blood red this time.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1164&products_id=37356
> Need this to mount the pump


thank you so much!
+rep


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the loop..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> A little bit of crystal link does wonders...


thanks guys









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Mostly greatly improved, gj.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, and not to be mean at all, but I do not like that whole section of extensions put together. It doesn't look good as there are so many breaks, and it sags. Maybe try doing a piece of solid acrylic tubing instead?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> This, then it would be perfection


as you quoted me saying more parts on the way
some of the parts are more cristal link just for that
but till thay come i can not have down time because i use my pc
for work not only gaming
but you are right it dos not look the best right now but it will soon


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you quoted me saying more parts on the way
> some of the parts are more cristal link just for that
> but till thay come i can not have down time because i use my pc
> for work not only gaming
> but you are right it dos not look the best right now but it will soon


Order some of this and cut a single long tube, would be super clean looking (it's the same product as crystal links so you can use the bitspower C47 fittings, really really easy to do)


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Order some of this and cut a single long tube, would be super clean looking (it's the same product as crystal links so you can use the bitspower C47 fittings, really really easy to do)


Its out of stock. You must have bought all their stock James


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Its out of stock. You must have bought all their stock James


lol, I did over-order, I have 3 entire tubes of it left over







.......... I smell a 350D build for my girlfriend in the near future....


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Order some of this and cut a single long tube, would be super clean looking (it's the same product as crystal links so you can use the bitspower C47 fittings, really really easy to do)


thanks mate that is a really good idea









it is out of stock right now


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> thanks mate that is a really good idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is out of stock right now


Any 12mm/10mm acrylic tube will work, see if you can get some somewhere, it would be PERFECT for your build!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Any 12mm/10mm acrylic tube will work, see if you can get some somewhere, it would be PERFECT for your build!


ya your right been looking cant find it any were else
but sill looking


----------



## Overtorque

Hi mates,

here for sharing my simply Corsair H100i on a Zalman Z11 case....... hoping you like it!!


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enrique602013*
> 
> Hi everybody Mi first testing!


Crazy loop for a single gpu... Try to get the rad in the case, clean the cables out the back of the case, and shorten the tubing will make it look much cleaner









You going to wc the CPU? Main reason to wc!


----------



## Seredin

Making slow progress to join this club.
Sleeved tubes or not, thoughts?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Making slow progress to join this club.
> Sleeved tubes or not, thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> G]


My vote goes for unsleeved, the flat black looks great


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Making slow progress to join this club.
> Sleeved tubes or not, thoughts?


Looks great man I absolutely love smaller form factors. I would have to vote for the sleeved tubes.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> My vote goes for unsleeved, the flat black looks great


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Looks great man I absolutely love smaller form factors. I would have to vote for the sleeved tubes.


Agh, you people! Same as in my build log, the votes are 50/50 haha


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Making slow progress to join this club.
> Sleeved tubes or not, thoughts?


I'd go for sleeved. Its a unique look


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Crazy loop for a single gpu... Try to get the rad in the case, clean the cables out the back of the case, and shorten the tubing will make it look much cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You going to wc the CPU? Main reason to wc!


Doesnt look like a gpu loop, looks like a cpu block just hanging there for testing....but theres no heatsinks from what i can see on the gpu...if its a loop for JUST gpu its an interesting way to go about it..

Also looks like an XSPC RASA kit of some description...This rig definitely needs cable management and shorter tubing,moving the rad inside would be a better way to go but it looks quite thick and without some modding i doubt it'll fit in that case...


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Crazy loop for a single gpu... Try to get the rad in the case, clean the cables out the back of the case, and shorten the tubing will make it look much cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You going to wc the CPU? Main reason to wc!


Take a closer look at the picture.. its a CPU loop. That's not got the block on the CPU. That's a Raystorm hanging over the GPU :')


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> I'd go for sleeved. Its a unique look


I'm leaning away from it because it wasn't easy getting it to look right on the tube. But, it does add some nice texture that is otherwise missing. Gah I can't decide.

Maybe by the time I'm done sleeving everything else I will be totally unmotivated to do any more


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Take a closer look at the picture.. its a CPU loop. That's not got the block on the CPU. That's a Raystorm hanging over the GPU :')


Interesting setup to say the least...


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Making slow progress to join this club.
> Sleeved tubes or not, thoughts?


Definitely with! The sleeving gives a more "finished" look imo, and it just plain looks awesome!









Oh and I love that case, too bad I had an ATX board


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Making slow progress to join this club.
> Sleeved tubes or not, thoughts?


Sleeved for sure!


----------



## BadDad62

Nothing to see here


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*


I love how straight that bottom connection is.


----------



## MrGrievous

Does anyone know if any type of cylinder reservoir will attach to the koolance cov-rp450 D5 pump top besides the koolance res


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Nothing to see here


How did you get rid of the drive cage?


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> here a update to my rig still more parts coming
> 
> *Befor*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4195.jpg.html
> 
> *After*
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4426.jpg.html
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4420.jpg.html
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4418.jpg.html
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4416.jpg.html
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4414.jpg.html


Would you be able to tell me what sized tubing you're using?


----------



## D33G33

A slight update from mine. Mounted the res directly on top of the pump and a slight change to tubing. I also delidded the CPU with MASSIVE improvements.
Before delid @ 4.4ghz 1 hour session of OCCT max temp was 80 degrees, after the delidding max temp was 66 degrees.

Now i'm running at 4.6ghz 24/7 and after about 3 hours of Bioshock max temp recorded was 63 degrees









I also drilled in some nutserts to mount the full plexi side panel. I think it looks great


----------



## golfergolfer

I got some new toys today and couldnt wait to try them out so I through this little guy together!













I think I did a pretty good job I am proud of it (Look at that cable management!) I cannot wait for that waterblock though havent been on air for so long its kinda gross....

Also I ran Borderlands 2 at max for about 10 min and my temps were in the mid 70's but the card was so hot i couldnt even touch the back of it. Is this normal? I havent had this powerful of a card before.

Waiting for my new Compact Splash to show up at some point!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Making slow progress to join this club.
> Sleeved tubes or not, thoughts?


i say sleeved
something like this would look good for you


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> I got some new toys today and couldnt wait to try them out so I through this little guy together!
> 
> I think I did a pretty good job I am proud of it (Look at that cable management!) I cannot wait for that waterblock though havent been on air for so long its kinda gross....
> 
> Also I ran Borderlands 2 at max for about 10 min and my temps were in the mid 70's but the card was so hot i couldnt even touch the back of it. Is this normal? I havent had this powerful of a card before.
> 
> Waiting for my new Compact Splash to show up at some point!


Not got Borderlands 2 but I have Far Cry 3 and my GTX 690 hits a similar temperature ie "ouch!" so no, it isn't unusual. Try it on Unigine Valley with Extreme settings where my card hits 80 degrees!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Would you be able to tell me what sized tubing you're using?




the big tube is Tygon E-1000 1/2" ID 3/4" OD

the little tube is Bitspower Crystal Link


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Would you be able to tell me what sized tubing you're using?




the big tube is Tygon E-1000 1/2" ID 3/4" OD

the little tube is Bitspower Crystal Link


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> I think I did a pretty good job I am proud of it (Look at that cable management!) I cannot wait for that waterblock though havent been on air for so long its kinda gross....
> 
> Also I ran Borderlands 2 at max for about 10 min and my temps were in the mid 70's but the card was so hot i couldnt even touch the back of it. Is this normal? I havent had this powerful of a card before.
> 
> Waiting for my new Compact Splash to show up at some point!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Not got Borderlands 2 but I have Far Cry 3 and my GTX 690 hits a similar temperature ie "ouch!" so no, it isn't unusual. Try it on Unigine Valley with Extreme settings where my card hits 80 degrees!


That seems a tad high to me for a 670. What are your ambient temps. My 670 FTW never got above like 60-65C IIRC when it was on air and that was under heavy loads. My ambient was usually 73-78F if not higher at the time (poor circulation in the room







).


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> 
> 
> the big tube is Tygon E-1000 1/2" ID 3/4" OD
> 
> the little tube is Bitspower Crystal Link


Thank a heap mate +rep, I't always hard to gauge tube size from pictures and people never state the tube size in their work logs either so you're left looking at images trying for the life of you to figure out which one you think will look best in your build.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> That seems a tad high to me for a 670. What are your ambient temps. My 670 FTW never got above like 60-65C IIRC when it was on air and that was under heavy loads. My ambient was usually 73-78F if not higher at the time (poor circulation in the room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


I kinda thought so but I just finished a solid run through on Bioshock Infinite and temps were 75 degrees the entire way at 50% on the fans (i havent changed anything about the card yet just breaking it in now with the bioshock game) So perhaps you had your fan profile set different than mine?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Thank a heap mate +rep, I't always hard to gauge tube size from pictures and people never state the tube size in their work logs either so you're left looking at images trying for the life of you to figure out which one you think will look best in your build.


NP mate we are all here to help etch other


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> I got some new toys today and couldnt wait to try them out so I through this little guy together!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I did a pretty good job I am proud of it (Look at that cable management!) I cannot wait for that waterblock though havent been on air for so long its kinda gross....
> 
> Also I ran Borderlands 2 at max for about 10 min and my temps were in the mid 70's but the card was so hot i couldnt even touch the back of it. Is this normal? I havent had this powerful of a card before.
> 
> Waiting for my new Compact Splash to show up at some point!


EK Supremacy, scouting the area for a good loving and warmCPU to stay on


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I love how straight that bottom connection is.


Just happened like that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> How did you get rid of the drive cage?


They simply unscrew









the remaining 2 are riveted







But i have another CM690II that i've removed all the front bays from for a SR1 420mm


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Have a question what you guys think about sandwiching two radiators...
Like this


pic are not mine found them looking for cosmos 2 watercooling options..

Now, i have 2 AlphaCool XT45 240 that im planning on putting on the bottom of the cosmos 2, but havent decided on how to do that..
Was planning using 1x koolance sli bridge to add them together and put fans pushing air from the middle like this other photo
.

My question is if i decide to do the sandwich FAN/RAD/FAN/RAD/FAN what size of m3 screws i should use for the middle fans?
Was thinking on (Allen M3 x 6mm) or 8mm long better?

Not aiming for looks, dont care about that. Im aiming for performance and ease of installation.. Not like im having problems on my corsair 300R temps wise... But im changing my case and beloved Black ICE GTX rads for a more silent operation and less restrictive loop in a case where rads are inside the case (baby all over the place issues lol)..


----------



## WebsterXC

Most people will sway you away from sandwiched radiators. The performance increase is very very light, especially since you have hot air from one radiator going into the "cold side" of another. If you're going for performance like you said, you should relocate each radiator to it's own area.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> EK Supremacy, scouting the area for a good loving and warmCPU to stay on


EK Supremacy has found the target he just needs to wait for his back up from his bigger brother EK GeForce 670 to take on the bigger targets


----------



## R3apR369

Current stage of my build. I'm just about done, but got some more CZ part's coming in.







I should be receiving the Midplate, Top Window, and another ext. plate for the motherboard by the end of this week.







After that, All I need to do is find me a cheap Corsair AX 850!


----------



## Jonik

My extreme watercooling system









CPU: Intel Сore i7 3930К
MB: Asus Rampage IV Extreme
GPU: Asus GTX Titan SLI
RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum CL10 2666 MHz 4x4GB
SSD: Crucial M4 256Gb
Sound: Asus Xonar DX
Сase: Dimastech Bench Table MINI
PSU: Corsair AX1200


----------



## bundymania

Those new EK titan blocks looks nice !

Some more EK items:


----------



## Swisser

A few things have changed since my last post do I thought I'd throw up an update.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I used to work for a company that made EPDM for tubing. It was such a boring plant ha


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> Now, i have 2 AlphaCool XT45 240 that im planning on putting on the bottom of the cosmos 2, but havent decided on how to do that..
> Was planning using 1x koolance sli bridge to add them together and put fans pushing air from the middle like this other photo
> .


+1 1x koolance sli bridge (simple solution, No fiddly bits of tubing) I'd put it on the bottom and put the in and out up top(eaiser bleeding)


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Unsure if i like these fittings or not.. hmmmm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> +1 1x koolance sli bridge (simple solution, No fiddly bits of tubing) I'd put it on the bottom and put the in and out up top(eaiser bleeding)


Agreed, Looks nice!


----------



## wermad

Anyone know if EK makes a blank for their triple "fc-terminal"? I'm going to run two blocks and I need the spacing of the triple (blank will cover the middle). The notes (ppcs.com) says fc-terminals are not compatible w/ csq parts.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know if EK makes a blank for their triple "fc-terminal"? I'm going to run two blocks and I need the spacing of the triple (blank will cover the middle). The notes (ppcs.com) says fc-terminals are not compatible w/ csq parts.


UK site but these are it. I ran the same set-up and it worked a treat. Still got all my FC link bits.

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-link-blank-parallel-gpu-block

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-link-blank-serial

Ignore


----------



## wermad

Oh, the old blanks work with the new terminal bridges?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37221


----------



## driftingforlife

Oww, my bad, ignore me. Thought you meant the old FC bridge.

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel-use-to-cover-unused-slot-on-terminal-parallel-series


----------



## AstuteCobra

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34843


----------



## driftingforlife

^

Thats for CSQ.


----------



## AstuteCobra

Sorry i should be asleep LOL


----------



## driftingforlife

I got it wrong the first time myself


----------



## wermad

Ill hit ppcs about it. I have a couple of koolance sli links in the mean time. Thanks Drift


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know if EK makes a blank for their triple "fc-terminal"? I'm going to run two blocks and I need the spacing of the triple (blank will cover the middle). The notes (ppcs.com) says fc-terminals are not compatible w/ csq parts.


I have not seen any yet, but imagine they will come in time.

If you really need a blank, you could make your own from a suitably sized block of acrylic and a drill and dremel to make a channel if it's a serial, and no channel if it's parallel, just use some flat gasket material instead of the o rings.

You could drill and tap it to use the three original mounting holes, or go the easy way and thru bolt it on the ends only, unless you make the gasket to accommodate the middle position, which would only be possible for a parallel block off blank.

Darlene


----------



## bundymania

New 13/10mm Tubing incoming











http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0428h5din.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0419cue9k.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0420jciyp.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0421bidri.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0422dycd0.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_042568d0w.jpg


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New 13/10mm Tubing incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0428h5din.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0419cue9k.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0420jciyp.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0421bidri.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0422dycd0.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_042568d0w.jpg


Yes please!


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What res is this?


----------



## MiiX

Might be an EK-RES X3 with white top and bottom


----------



## Aventadoor

Is the EK DCP 4.0 pump enough for gpu+cpu+240+360radiators?


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Is the EK DCP 4.0 pump enough for gpu+cpu+240+360radiators?


Yep, it's fine.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Is the EK DCP 4.0 pump enough for gpu+cpu+240+360radiators?


Ya I'm using the ek dcp 4.0 for a cpu + gpu + 240rad + 240rad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I got it wrong the first time myself


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have not seen any yet, but imagine they will come in time.
> 
> If you really need a blank, you could make your own from a suitably sized block of acrylic and a drill and dremel to make a channel if it's a serial, and no channel if it's parallel, just use some flat gasket material instead of the o rings.
> 
> You could drill and tap it to use the three original mounting holes, or go the easy way and thru bolt it on the ends only, unless you make the gasket to accommodate the middle position, which would only be possible for a parallel block off blank.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks guys! I shot ppcs.com an email on eta. Not worth shipping from EU so I'll wait to order the bridge and backplates









http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-link-blank-parallel-csq.html


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> Have a question what you guys think about sandwiching two radiators...


Some time back Martin at Martin's Liquid Lab pointed to some great research data on radiator sandwiching, available here.

The research suggests, in a word, _don't_. From this fellow's results, it appears that setting up 1 rad in push-pull produces better results than 2 sandwiched rads. At least, that is how I read the results.


----------



## kcuestag

I need some help from the WC gurus here.









So I got a 420mm rad for my Switch 810, and it fits perfectly, but obviously had to mod the bays so I could fit the fittings there. Having 19/13mm tubing makes it very hard to do close turns in short lengths, I'm wondering if using 10/13mm tubing (Yes, 10/13, or 13/10 can't remember LOL) on a very short length of the loop (From pump/res to radiator, not even 5cm long), would it be OK considering rest of the loop is 19/13?

Aesthetics wise it's fine since that part won't be seen from outside the case, how about performance wise, will be fine?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I need some help from the WC gurus here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I got a 420mm rad for my Switch 810, and it fits perfectly, but obviously had to mod the bays so I could fit the fittings there. Having 19/13mm tubing makes it very hard to do close turns in short lengths, I'm wondering if using 10/13mm tubing (Yes, 10/13, or 13/10 can't remember LOL) on a very short length of the loop (From pump/res to radiator, not even 5cm long), would it be OK considering rest of the loop is 19/13?
> 
> Aesthetics wise it's fine since that part won't be seen from outside the case, how about performance wise, will be fine?


i think you would be perfectly fine since the difference in restrictiveness between tube diameter is so minuscule that it isn't even worth a second planning. (i think it would be equivalent to using the Bitspower crystal link in a loop since it also has a small diameter)

( we're not gurus, just people with too much time and money for a funny hobby in our hands which builds up strange skills







)


----------



## Destrto

Just adding my new setup to this amazing lot of systems. Trying an "All In One" Water Cooling setup first to see the benefits of water against air cooling. I plan to upgrade in the near future with a custom Water Cooling setup after I am more comfortable with the components and everything I'll actually need to get started. Hopefully the friendly guys and gals here will offer some advice.



Corsair Carbide 500R
Corsair H100
Kingston HyperX Blu DDR3 1600Mhz
AMD FX-8120 (OC'd to 4.5Ghz currently)

I guess that is the basics for now..??


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> +1 1x koolance sli bridge (simple solution, No fiddly bits of tubing) I'd put it on the bottom and put the in and out up top(eaiser bleeding)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prof Aronnax*
> 
> Some time back Martin at Martin's Liquid Lab pointed to some great research data on radiator sandwiching, available here.
> 
> The research suggests, in a word, _don't_. From this fellow's results, it appears that setting up 1 rad in push-pull produces better results than 2 sandwiched rads. At least, that is how I read the results.


+1 repped guys XD

I would use the sli bridge and use fans from the middle pushing air thru both rads then ..


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New 13/10mm Tubing incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0428h5din.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0419cue9k.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0420jciyp.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0421bidri.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0422dycd0.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_042568d0w.jpg


Yup, i got a 4metres of clear tubing waiting for my 900D build.
It`s a bit bluish, seems to be ok otherwise.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## Bart

Minicooper1: very nice!! Love the black/white scheme.


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Minicooper1: very nice!! Love the black/white scheme.


thanks


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Making slow progress to join this club.
> Sleeved tubes or not, thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean SDD mount.







I vote sleeved tubes.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Making slow progress to join this club.
> Sleeved tubes or not, thoughts?


id say sleeved if it was on display, but looks like this might be a HTPC so if its going in a cabinet then dont bother with the sleeving as the time and effort wont be worth it due to you not looking at it.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> id say sleeved if it was on display, but looks like this might be a HTPC so if its going in a cabinet then dont bother with the sleeving as the time and effort wont be worth it due to you not looking at it.


Not an HTPC, exactly. It's going to be my main computer, though it will do a fair bit of theater-izing








It'll sit on my desk, right next to me. And it might go under my pillow at night.

That being said, I doubt I'll put a window on it. But still, when I open it up, I want to be greeted by something nice









I'm thinking I'll sleeve the tubing when I add a waterblock on my gpu and leave it bare for now. I don't know if I have enough sata sleeving from MDPC to make the adjustment in the future without having to order some more sleeve.


----------



## Triggagnomic

Some lovelely rigs in here guys, makes me want to put some more effort in...











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is my first water build. One of my mates got fed up with the whole WC business and sent me his old bits which saved me loads of cash. It's not terribly tidy but it does the job...

TFC X-Changer 360 + 3 x CM sickleflow red
EK Supremecy (JP #3)
EK GTX 680 CSQ (on a GTX 670 FTW)
Phobya DC12-400 + EK res
Bitspower & XSPC fittings

Max temps are 44c on the GTX 670 @ 1293 core/7008 mem & 68c on the 3570K @ 4.7Ghz/ 1.344v (20 max memory IBT runs). I wanna get some better fans and a modular PSU/sleeving but I'm too poor and lazy right now. Also maybe a better block 'coz I think the supremecy holds me back...


----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*


DAT SLI Bridge









How did you go about mounting that to the actual bridge itself?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> DAT SLI Bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you go about mounting that to the actual bridge itself?


I don't know how he did it but velcro or two sided tape (3M #4010) can work pretty well.


----------



## OccultAssassin

After lurking for so long I can finally add some pictures of how my system turned out. Hope it's not too disappointing considering all the great systems I have been seeing lately.



Spoiler: Various other pics of the parts, setup, and specific areas.



















Still got a few more mods to finish before this is done. Adding 2 120 fans to the front and removing the preinstalled 200. Removing the front IO and power switches and installing Vandal switches. Making and installing an acrylic side panel.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> After lurking for so long I can finally add some pictures of how my system turned out. Hope it's not too disappointing considering all the great systems I have been seeing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Various other pics of the parts, setup, and specific areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still got a few more mods to finish before this is done. Adding 2 120 fans to the from and removing the preinstalled 200. Removing the front IO and power switches and installing Vandal switches. Making and installing an acrylic side panel.


Not disappointing at all man nice work. I think it looks really clean and well put together myself


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Not disappointing at all man nice work. I think it looks really clean and well put together myself


+1!! That looks great! All in such a tight space too. Job well done!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> After lurking for so long I can finally add some pictures of how my system turned out. Hope it's not too disappointing considering all the great systems I have been seeing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Various other pics of the parts, setup, and specific areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still got a few more mods to finish before this is done. Adding 2 120 fans to the from and removing the preinstalled 200. Removing the front IO and power switches and installing Vandal switches. Making and installing an acrylic side panel.


Looks great. Well done on the sleeving and cable management too.


----------



## cafu02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks great. Well done on the sleeving and cable management too.


Very nice
I have the same mootherboard, I'm dong a white theme, might need to add some blue to it also


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> After lurking for so long I can finally add some pictures of how my system turned out. Hope it's not too disappointing considering all the great systems I have been seeing lately.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still got a few more mods to finish before this is done. Adding 2 120 fans to the front and removing the preinstalled 200. Removing the front IO and power switches and installing Vandal switches. Making and installing an acrylic side panel.


Those wires look amazing. May I has what you used to keep them so tidy and tightly together?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Those wires look amazing. May I has what you used to keep them so tidy and tightly together?


Those cables look awesome, I am going to have to utilize that for my next build


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Might be an EK-RES X3 with white top and bottom


Yes, that is correct


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Those wires look amazing. May I has what you used to keep them so tidy and tightly together?


If I had to guess, I'd say he sewed them!

And to anyone who's ever considered that, it's a hand-burner, but well worth it.

That is just shockingly beautiful every time I see it done well.









Thanks - T


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i think you would be perfectly fine since the difference in restrictiveness between tube diameter is so minuscule that it isn't even worth a second planning. (i think it would be equivalent to using the Bitspower crystal link in a loop since it also has a small diameter)
> 
> ( we're not gurus, just people with too much time and money for a funny hobby in our hands which builds up strange skills
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thanks, I'll go with the smaller tubing (10/13 vs 19/13mm) for that part of the loop then, since I feel much safer using the smaller one in that part.


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> If I had to guess, I'd say he sewed them!
> 
> And to anyone who's ever considered that, it's a hand-burner, but well worth it.
> 
> That is just shockingly beautiful every time I see it done well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


How do you sew them? Ive been interested in this a while now..


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> How do you sew them? Ive been interested in this a while now..


Google "sewing computer cables" or something like that. There are some good youtube tutorials. It's really simple to do, albeit a tooch hard on the fingers.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> How do you sew them? Ive been interested in this a while now..


Click here for all the sewing love you could ever want!

Thanks - T


----------



## Qu1ckset

aircooling is so much easier when it comes to selling your videocards for upgrades... i really don't wanna tear my loop when i get a sale for my GTX690 lol


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> aircooling is so much easier when it comes to selling your videocards for upgrades... i really don't wanna tear my loop when i get a sale for my GTX690 lol


Three weeks ago I was able to sell my QuadFire 7970s in one piece. I didn't even remove the parallel bridge that connected the four cards.

I sold them locally and they guy drove to my house to get them. It was a *lucky shot*.









But like you say, 50% of the time you need to sell cards and blocks seperatly.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Those wires look amazing. May I has what you used to keep them so tidy and tightly together?


Thrasher1016 hit the nail on the head. I did sew them using the great guide by provided by Pongo and video tutorials from youtuber FrankNSteinPC. I would highly recommend using a no-stretch nylon string.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Thrasher1016 hit the nail on the head. I did sew them using the great guide by provided by Pongo and video tutorials from youtuber FrankNSteinPC. I would highly recommend using a no-stretch nylon string.


Thanks for the info Thrasher and Occult, +rep to you both. I'm definitely going to look into doing this. I've been fighting keeping my cables where I want them ever since my rebuild. They kept wanting to go back to their shape they were before transferring cases. I've seen plastic cable "combs" before but haven't really been able to find them for sale anywhere


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Thanks for the info Thrasher and Occult, +rep to you both. I'm definitely going to look into doing this. I've been fighting keeping my cables where I want them ever since my rebuild. They kept wanting to go back to their shape they were before transferring cases. I've seen plastic cable "combs" before but haven't really been able to find them for sale anywhere


Didn't one of the Artisans here (Dwood) used to sell custom made metal combs? I could have sworn I saw those somewhere on OCN a while ago.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Didn't one of the Artisans here (Dwood) used to sell custom made metal combs? I could have sworn I saw those somewhere on OCN a while ago.


That's what I thought too but I checked his website and couldn't find anything


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's what I thought too but I checked his website and couldn't find anything


Click here to get the skinny on DWood's merch in regards to spacers!!!

Thanks - T


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Click here to get the skinny on DWood's merch in regards to spacers!!!
> 
> Thanks - T


That would be why I couldn't find them. Lutro sells will be selling them on his site. Thanks again Thrasher!


----------



## Bart

Sweet, thanks Thrasher.







That's good info for us all.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Ain't a thing. As soon as I saw that thread, I subbed and started watching for the eventual home for the product!
I'm stalking the site regularly for their release too.









Until then I'm using the Mod/Smart cable clips from FCPU, just to tide me over.

Thanks - T


----------



## Poyri

I need to do some sleeving and cable management. Those thing will wait 900D.


----------



## wermad

Fyi, ppcs.com will have the Fc-Terminal blanks by next week. My 685s should be in by then and I'll place my order with some backplates (evga):







Here's a little teaser







:



Thinking of getting a 3rd for full powah 1200 Surround


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fyi, ppcs.com will have the Fc-Terminal blanks by next week. My 685s should be in by then and I'll place my order with some backplates (evga):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a little teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of getting a 3rd for full powah 1200 Surround


So you went with Titans eh? "685" is what the cool kids call it?








Nice though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So you went with Titans eh? "685" is what the cool kids call it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice though.


The opportunity came up and I made the plunge. I wanted to try them out. See what all the excitement was about. More of a sidegrade in terms of cost, a slight downgrade in terms of gpu power, but scaling and gaming might be a better experience.

My gpu setups are really getting better in terms of cooling. I really don't need much cooling for them so it really begs the question of needing this amount of cooling. Well, this is ocn, so it does have a need for overkill.

edit: I like to call them GTX 685 since Nvidia does classify it under the same 6xx series generation (I know its a difference core architecture). It is the once rumored powerhouse better then a 680. Sure Titan is its real name as per Nvidia. But I call em 685, which befits it quite well seeing it does fall between the 680 and 690.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Interesting. I may start calling them 685's as well...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Is it possible to get a res with a VPP655 attached to it? Or some other xxx655 pump attached? That would make my life a lot easier. Thanks guys!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Is it possible to get a res with a VPP655 attached to it? Or some other xxx655 pump attached? That would make my life a lot easier. Thanks guys!


You could buy something like THIS. Which mounts onto the top of a 655 pump. Of course you would need the pump itself already, and you would also need a pump top for the 655, such as THIS.


----------



## azasadny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks great. Well done on the sleeving and cable management too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quote
> 
> One of the nicest rigs I've ever seen! Great work!!


----------



## canada2005

Sell me one of those titans in 5 months for $300...


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Is it possible to get a res with a VPP655 attached to it? Or some other xxx655 pump attached? That would make my life a lot easier. Thanks guys!


Xspx makes a dual bay resort that you install a D5/665 into. I'd link it but my phone is acting up.


----------



## Bart

XSPC single D5 bay res: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/xspc_dual_5_25_reservoir_for_one_laing_d5_back_mount_
Dual D5: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/twin-d5-dual-5_25-bay-clear-reservoir-dual-laing-d5


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Xspx makes a dual bay resort that you install a D5/665 into. I'd link it but my phone is acting up.


http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-140-XS&adword=google/pla/PUP_Watercooling_Pumps/Main_Pump_Units/WC-140-XS/&pup_ptid=41170477235&pup_kw=&pup_c=pla&gclid=CL_K7cWE4rYCFYjLtAod5TYAPA


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You could buy something like THIS. Which mounts onto the top of a 655 pump. Of course you would need the pump itself already, and you would also need a pump top for the 655, such as THIS.


This is PERFECT. Anyone know what res that is? Link pleeease







Sorry if that is an obvious question I'm just new to all of this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Xspx makes a dual bay resort that you install a D5/665 into. I'd link it but my phone is acting up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> XSPC single D5 bay res: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/xspc_dual_5_25_reservoir_for_one_laing_d5_back_mount_
> Dual D5: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/twin-d5-dual-5_25-bay-clear-reservoir-dual-laing-d5


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-140-XS&adword=google/pla/PUP_Watercooling_Pumps/Main_Pump_Units/WC-140-XS/&pup_ptid=41170477235&pup_kw=&pup_c=pla&gclid=CL_K7cWE4rYCFYjLtAod5TYAPA


Thanks for your help guys. I was actually thinking of a bay res, but I think I'm going to go with one of the more traditional ones. I need to find the one in that top link!! Your help is much appreciated


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> *This is PERFECT. Anyone know what res that is? Link pleeease
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if that is an obvious question I'm just new to all of this.*
> 
> Thanks for your help guys. I was actually thinking of a bay res, but I think I'm going to go with one of the more traditional ones. I need to find the one in that top link!! Your help is much appreciated


That link is the res itself. The res is included in that kit, it's a 150mm version, it's all from Bitspower.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That link is the res itself. The res is included in that kit, it's a 150mm version, it's all from Bitspower.


Oh awesome! REP to you for your help









I see that the top you linked me to ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12199/ex-pmp-122/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Extreme_Pump_Mod_Top_V2_-_Acetal_BP-D5TOPP2EX-BK.html?tl=g30c107s1805#blank ) doesn't have the best review. Are there any other tops that you know of that are popular?

Would this fit?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16419/ex-pmp-198/EK_D5_X-Top_Acetal_Pump_Top_CSQ_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655_EK-D5_X-TOP_CSQ_-_Acetal.html?tl=g30c107s1805#blank


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Oh awesome! REP to you for your help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see that the top you linked me to ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12199/ex-pmp-122/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Extreme_Pump_Mod_Top_V2_-_Acetal_BP-D5TOPP2EX-BK.html?tl=g30c107s1805#blank ) doesn't have the best review. Are there any other tops that you know of that are popular?
> 
> Would this fit?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16419/ex-pmp-198/EK_D5_X-Top_Acetal_Pump_Top_CSQ_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655_EK-D5_X-TOP_CSQ_-_Acetal.html?tl=g30c107s1805#blank


Bitspower makes some of the best products around, I've used their tops before and they're great. That's one guys review, and he knocked off three stars basically because he went Hulk status on the top and over tightened the heck out of it stripping the threads.

Here is a whole list of other D5/655 pump tops out there.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c107/s1805/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Pumps-D5_Pump_Tops-Page1.html

EDIT: You added that EK top while I was composing my post, but yes it would fit.







But if you use any other top than the Bitspower, then that res mod kit I showed you will not be compatible.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Bitspower makes some of the best products around, I've used their tops before and they're great. That's one guys review, and he knocked off three stars basically because he went Hulk status on the top and over tightened the heck out of it stripping the threads.
> 
> Here is a whole list of other D5/655 pump tops out there.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c107/s1805/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Pumps-D5_Pump_Tops-Page1.html
> 
> EDIT: You added that EK top while I was composing my post, but yes it would fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you use any other top than the Bitspower, then that res mod kit I showed you will not be compatible.


Yea I was thinking that too, just one guys review. Bitspower has a reputation that speaks for itself. So do you think that res would hold enough water to cool a cpu, three 7950's, and go through a 360 rad and a 480 monsta rad?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea I was thinking that too, just one guys review. Bitspower has a reputation that speaks for itself. So do you think that res would hold enough water to cool a cpu, three 7950's, and go through a 360 rad and a 480 monsta rad?


The size of the res is more about aesthetics than it is how it performs usually. Usually that kind of question is asked about the pump itself, asking something like "is this pump (a D5 for example) strong enough to go through a 360, a 240, etc etc." In which case, if you were to ask that question, a single D5/655 would handle a setup like that just fine.
But in regards to the res, again, it could be a 80mm res, or a 250mm res, it's going to hold the water just the same to go through the loop. Some might say the smaller res is harder to bleed though when first filling the loop, but overall there is no issue with "will it hold enough water."


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I use a 150mm BP res and it does just fine in my loop...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright thanks a lot for your help guys. You are making this learning process a lot easier for me.


----------



## Bart

Be sure to post up a build thread too!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Alright thanks a lot for your help guys. You are making this learning process a lot easier for me.


Awesome, no problem.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Be sure to post up a build thread too!


I second this, I always like catching new builds.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Be sure to post up a build thread too!


I most definetly will! I'm planning some big and sexy things. Like a very modestly placed external 480 monsta rad, some custom work to the Phantom 820, and some color coordination to match the ASUS MVE. I still have a ton of planning before I start so it's going to be a while. I just built my first rig two months ago and I'm addicted. Loving every thing I learn. I'm having a bit of trouble learning all of the WC stuff, but you guys have been very helpful. This forum is now a second home to me. I can't believe all the posts I've gained in the past couple months! Now I actually help people and just pass it forward. Love it here


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I use a 150mm BP res and it does just fine in my loop...


acrylic version?
mine has been acting weird, my rig has been running for almost two months
2 weeks ago, it has some leakage from the BP res, than I put some towels for the next two days
no leakage detected until now, all has been tighten to the max since the beginning

my tube seriously has a mind of its own


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> acrylic version?
> mine has been acting weird, my rig has been running for almost two months
> 2 weeks ago, it has some leakage from the BP res, than I put some towels for the next two days
> no leakage detected until now, all has been tighten to the max since the beginning
> 
> *my tube seriously has a mind of its own*


Definitely sounds like it does.







I'm using my 4th BP res, never had a leak. I do recall out of the box though they come slightly loose, so they do have to be tightened down before put into service.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Been running mine nearly 24/7 since June 2012 with no leaks. Have done a few drain, flush, and refills as well. Of course no product is 100% fail proof but BP is one of the best IMO...


----------



## LuckyNumber13

just a quick question.
I will be ordering my GTX Titan on Thursday
and already have the block (Koolance).
was just wondering in everyone's opinion should
I use the thermal pads that koolance gives with
it or should I use some type of thermal paste (I have
arctic silver 5 and also Arctic MX-4)
what does everyone else use (pad,paste?)
when putting their block on their GPU.?


----------



## MKHunt

The pads are only used on the VRM components and the memory. I personally have used both EK pads and Koolance. In my opinion, the EK pads were more like a solid but squishy thermal paste made into a pad, but the Koolance ones worked 110% well on my 590.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Here's mine.









RAM block is next on my list.


IMG_8900 by b.han, on Flickr


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> acrylic version?
> mine has been acting weird, my rig has been running for almost two months
> 2 weeks ago, it has some leakage from the BP res, than I put some towels for the next two days
> no leakage detected until now, all has been tighten to the max since the beginning
> 
> my tube seriously has a mind of its own


i have the 250 and the 150 both of tham work 100%
never had any trouble with any BP products


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> acrylic version?
> mine has been acting weird, my rig has been running for almost two months
> 2 weeks ago, it has some leakage from the BP res, than I put some towels for the next two days
> no leakage detected until now, all has been tighten to the max since the beginning
> 
> my tube seriously has a mind of its own


i have the 250 and the 150 both of tham work 100%
never had any trouble with any BP products


----------



## nagle3092

Be gentle, its my first time.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.


----------



## tiborrr12

For all the AMD lovers: http://www.ekwb.com/news/338/19/EK-working-on-a-new-FC-water-block-for-AMD-Radeon-HD-7990-Malta/
Quote:


> In the mean time we are pleased to announce our EK-FCS10000 full-cover water block, originally designed for AMD® FirePro S10000 server graphics card, is compatible with the new AMD® Radeon HD 7990 Malta graphics card.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I only use BP res in my builds,never had a leak that wasn't PEBKAC....

Try a small smear of silicone grease on the oring and check for twisting or marks.

Ordering 2 of the 880ml aqualis res and pump tops this weekend....i may even go for a pair of 35X for some thorough testing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I only use BP res in my builds,never had a leak that wasn't PEBKAC....
> 
> Try a small smear of silicone grease on the oring and check for twisting or marks.
> 
> Ordering 2 of the 880ml aqualis res and pump tops this weekend....i may even go for a pair of *35X* for some thorough testing.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> 
> 
> Be gentle, its my first time.
> 
> Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.


Looks sweet nagle3092!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I only use BP res in my builds,never had a leak that wasn't PEBKAC....
> 
> Try a small smear of silicone grease on the oring and check for twisting or marks.
> 
> Ordering 2 of the 880ml aqualis res and pump tops this weekend....i may even go for a pair of *35X* for some thorough testing.
Click to expand...

Its the only pump i dont have 2 of Werm and im sick of trippin over D5's...they are secretly breeding in my 'spares' cupboard.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

How does this look guys? Ive been trying to plan this loop for a month now. Yesterday someone showed me a custom top with res so that made my life a lot easier. Here Is the diagram:

and here is my parts list:
Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump - HF Top Edition - $120
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13148/ex-pmp-132/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_HF_Top_Edition.html?tl=g30c107#blank
Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Extreme Pump Mod Top V2 - Acetal (BP-D5TOPP2EX-BK) - $60
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12199/ex-pmp-122/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Extreme_Pump_Mod_Top_V2_-_Acetal_BP-D5TOPP2EX-BK.html?tl=g30c107s1805
Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 - Black (BP-D5TOPUK150P-BKBKCL) - $50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16077/ex-res-370/Bitspower_Dual_Single_D5_Top_Upgrade_Kit_150_-_Black_BP-D5TOPUK150P-BKBKCL.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank
EK Supremacy - Acetal CPU Water Block - $77
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supremacy-acetal.html
(2x) Alphacool NexXxoS ATXP ATI 7970/50 Series V2 - Polished Stainless Steel - Black - $208
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088
(2x) Alphacool NexXxoS ATXP Back Plate - ATI 7970/50 - Black $42
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1042&products_id=36087
External Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 480 - $151
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1031_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Monsta-480.html
Top Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm - $70
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p979_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-360mm.html
Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 280 - $112
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1205_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Monsta-280.html
Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket with Quick-Release - $45
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_982&products_id=25631
(2x) BitFenix 6-pin Video Card Extension Cable - 45 cm - Red/Black Sleeve - $16
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_804_1011_1198&products_id=36228
BitFenix ATX 24pin Extension Cable - 30cm - Red/Black Sleeve - $10
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_804_1011_1198&products_id=36232
Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, 3/8" x 5/8" Single - Matte Black - $7
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1094&products_id=33204
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD - Bloodshed Red - $25
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17887/ex-tub-1620/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-58-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?tl=g30c99s1615
(13x) Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition CO-9050005-WW 120mm High Static Pressure Case Fan - $200
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181024&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Case+Fans-_-N82E16835181024&gclid=CJuj5pW71LYCFcfd4AodNE0AXw

Total = $1193

What do you guys think?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the only pump i dont have 2 of Werm and im sick of trippin over D5's...they are secretly breeding in my 'spares' cupboard.


Coming from anyone else, I'd call shenannigans.
Coming from you, Stren, or maybe one other, I believe it.









SPEAKING OF...
Here's the start of my stupidity, and a few choice shots from over on my log!













Only had time for the barest of unboxings last night, as I had a raid to attend to in SWTOR, but I'll plug away slowly!

Thanks - T


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> How does this look guys? Ive been trying to plan this loop for a month now. Yesterday someone showed me a custom top with res so that made my life a lot easier. Here Is the diagram:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here is my parts list:
> Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump - HF Top Edition - $120
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13148/ex-pmp-132/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_HF_Top_Edition.html?tl=g30c107#blank
> Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Extreme Pump Mod Top V2 - Acetal (BP-D5TOPP2EX-BK) - $60
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12199/ex-pmp-122/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Extreme_Pump_Mod_Top_V2_-_Acetal_BP-D5TOPP2EX-BK.html?tl=g30c107s1805
> Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 - Black (BP-D5TOPUK150P-BKBKCL) - $50
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16077/ex-res-370/Bitspower_Dual_Single_D5_Top_Upgrade_Kit_150_-_Black_BP-D5TOPUK150P-BKBKCL.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank
> EK Supremacy - Acetal CPU Water Block - $77
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supremacy-acetal.html
> (2x) Alphacool NexXxoS ATXP ATI 7970/50 Series V2 - Polished Stainless Steel - Black - $208
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_580&products_id=36088
> (2x) Alphacool NexXxoS ATXP Back Plate - ATI 7970/50 - Black $42
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1042&products_id=36087
> External Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 480 - $151
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1031_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Monsta-480.html
> Top Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm - $70
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p979_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-360mm.html
> Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 280 - $112
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1205_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Monsta-280.html
> Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket with Quick-Release - $45
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_982&products_id=25631
> (2x) BitFenix 6-pin Video Card Extension Cable - 45 cm - Red/Black Sleeve - $16
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_804_1011_1198&products_id=36228
> BitFenix ATX 24pin Extension Cable - 30cm - Red/Black Sleeve - $10
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_804_1011_1198&products_id=36232
> Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, 3/8" x 5/8" Single - Matte Black - $7
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1094&products_id=33204
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD - Bloodshed Red - $25
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17887/ex-tub-1620/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-58-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?tl=g30c99s1615
> (13x) Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition CO-9050005-WW 120mm High Static Pressure Case Fan - $200
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181024&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Case+Fans-_-N82E16835181024&gclid=CJuj5pW71LYCFcfd4AodNE0AXw
> 
> Total = $1193
> 
> What do you guys think?


Going against gravity?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Coming from anyone else, I'd call shenannigans.
> Coming from you, Stren, or maybe one other, I believe it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SPEAKING OF...
> Here's the start of my stupidity, and a few choice shots from over on my log!
> 
> 
> 
> Only had time for the barest of unboxings last night, as I had a raid to attend to in SWTOR, but I'll plug away slowly!
> 
> Thanks - T


What do you think of the Bitspower QDC? I was looking at them the other day and seem nice. They are much more expensive than their Koolance counterpart though. Especially the black ones. I'm still waiting for the prices of the new Swiftech QDC's to be released


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> What do you think of the Bitspower QDC. I was looking at them the other day. They are much more expensive than their Koolance counterpart. Especially the black ones. I'm still waiting for the prices of the new Swiftech QDC's to be released


Having obv. not used it yet, and only going on others' opinion, it's great!








Having held it in my hand, if I threw it at someone, it would kill them.








I'm going to have to fabricate a pipe stand for that part, and the flow shutoff valve.

Thanks - T


----------



## Shoggy

For those who wait for the GTX titan backplate. First real live photos









  

 

And for those who have no idea how that should work: it is only compatible to our kryographics blocks


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> Going against gravity?


What do you mean? Is there something I could do better? I figure that would be the best way to do it to use the least tubing possible. Every loop fights gravity in some areas, right? I didn't think it would matter with a pump like the VPP655. I think the most important rule is to use the least amount of tubing and to minimize the amount of 90 and 180 degree turns and I think I did that pretty efficiently, right?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What do you mean? Is there something I could do better? I figure that would be the best way to do it to use the least tubing possible. Every loop fights gravity in some areas, right? I didn't think it would matter with a pump like the VPP655. I think the most important rule is to use the least amount of tubing and to minimize the amount of 90 and 180 degree turns and I think I did that pretty efficiently, right?


The diagram looks fine, but it looks like your flow arrows are backward. It looks like you want the flow to come out the top of the reservoir. If that's exactly how you are going to connect the tubes, then the flow would be running the opposite direction of your arrows. So it would go res/pump-> 240 Monsta-> 480 Monsta-> GPU-> CPU-> ST30->res/pump


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What do you mean? Is there something I could do better? I figure that would be the best way to do it to use the least tubing possible. Every loop fights gravity in some areas, right? I didn't think it would matter with a pump like the VPP655. I think the most important rule is to use the least amount of tubing and to minimize the amount of 90 and 180 degree turns and I think I did that pretty efficiently, right?


Yes. What morencyam said. Other than that it looks good.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For those who wait for the GTX titan backplate. First real live photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for those who have no idea how that should work: it is only compatible to our kryographics blocks


Now that's sexy.


----------



## Elevenate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What do you mean? Is there something I could do better? I figure that would be the best way to do it to use the least tubing possible. Every loop fights gravity in some areas, right? I didn't think it would matter with a pump like the VPP655. I think the most important rule is to use the least amount of tubing and to minimize the amount of 90 and 180 degree turns and I think I did that pretty efficiently, right?


we just mean that ur arrows point in the wrong direction


----------



## Dzuks

I know the 900D is upon us, but I couldn't help picking up this 800D for a 100 bucks. Great deal in my opinion and good replacement for my Haf X... *Nods Twice*


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> How does this look guys? Ive been trying to plan this loop for a month now. Yesterday someone showed me a custom top with res so that made my life a lot easier. Here Is the diagram:
> 
> and here is my parts list:
> 
> ~ snip ~
> 
> What do you guys think?


Since you asked, . . .

As the guys have suggested, that you have the flow direction arrows essentially backwards, . . You'll also find it *significantly* easier to bleed if you put the rear rad with the fittings to the top. Add a Tee for a fill point.

Let me add a bit of thought worth considering as you reverse the flow direction:

Pump > Bottom rad > GPU > GPU > Rear rad (fittings @ top) > CPU > Top Rad > Res

You may also want to consider, using an alternate bitspower res that has three ports in the top, that would allow for a return line there (use the internal tube on the return port), as well as a vent/fill connection, and a spare or LED.

It still attached to the pump top, but with a male to male rotary, so that the res can be rotated to align the fitting locations if needed.

You can choose the length you want:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16936/ex-res-419/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM250AC-CL.html?tl=g30c97s165

Darlene


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The diagram looks fine, but it looks like your flow arrows are backward. It looks like you want the flow to come out the top of the reservoir. If that's exactly how you are going to connect the tubes, then the flow would be running the opposite direction of your arrows. So it would go res/pump-> 240 Monsta-> 480 Monsta-> GPU-> CPU-> ST30->res/pump


Yea I know it looks like it is coming out the top of the resevoir, but I meant it to go behind the res to an outlet on the pump top. So would it be better to go up into the rad and down through the cpu and gpu's or down the the rad and up through the gpu's and cpu? Or does it not matter?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea I know it looks like it is coming out the top of the resevoir, but I meant it to go behind the res to an outlet on the pump top. So would it be better to go up into the rad and down through the cpu and gpu's or down the the rad and up through the gpu's and cpu? Or does it not matter?


I think running it reverse to your arrows now with the return going into the top of the res would be the best option. With as much rad space as you have, I really doubt you will see any difference in temps. I switched directions of my loop when I changed cases and didn't see any change


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Since you asked, . . .
> 
> As the guys have suggested, that you have the flow direction arrows essentially backwards, . . You'll also find it *significantly* easier to bleed if you put the rear rad with the fittings to the top. Add a Tee for a fill point.
> 
> Let me add a bit of thought worth considering as you reverse the flow direction:
> 
> Pump > Bottom rad > GPU > GPU > Rear rad (fittings @ top) > CPU > Top Rad > Res
> 
> You may also want to consider, using an alternate bitspower res that has three ports in the top, that would allow for a return line there (use the internal tube on the return port), as well as a vent/fill connection, and a spare or LED.
> 
> It still attached to the pump top, but with a male to male rotary, so that the res can be rotated to align the fitting locations if needed.
> 
> You can choose the length you want:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16936/ex-res-419/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM250AC-CL.html?tl=g30c97s165
> 
> Darlene


Heyy thanks a lot for chiming in







For the external rad I have it with the inlet and outlet on the bottom because that is where the rear rubber grommets are on my case so it will line up well and use less tubing to go through it. If I had the inlet and the outlet above the case with the rad flipped I will have to use more tubing to run all the way down the length of the case to the rubber grommets near the GPU's. Also, I will have to use more tubing and have more bends in order to stick a rad in between the GPU's and CPU. I think I will just reverse the arrows in my diagram and run the loop that way. As long as no one sees any problems with the loop that way.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the only pump i dont have 2 of Werm and im sick of trippin over D5's...they are secretly breeding in my 'spares' cupboard.
> 
> 
> 
> Coming from anyone else, I'd call shenannigans.
> Coming from you, Stren, or maybe one other, I believe it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> SPEAKING OF...
> Here's the start of my stupidity, and a few choice shots from over on my log!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only had time for the barest of unboxings last night, as I had a raid to attend to in SWTOR, but I'll plug away slowly!
> 
> Thanks - T
Click to expand...

I have a habit of buying stuff for future builds and never using it but this time i have purpose,OC3D want me to do WC gear testing for them so im getting pumps together,mainly to see how different blocks and rads behave with different pumps.
Unfortunately i cant post the results here due to the OCN ToS but im sure someone will post the salient points if needed.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> For those who wait for the GTX titan backplate. First real live photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for those who have no idea how that should work: it is only compatible to our kryographics blocks


Interesting....so the backplate for titan is crucial, somehow, for the cooling? Rethinking my EVGA one and doing the EK one. Or change to new blocks w/ sexy active cooling on the backplate


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Heyy thanks a lot for chiming in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the external rad I have it with the inlet and outlet on the bottom because that is where the rear rubber grommets are on my case so it will line up well and use less tubing to go through it. If I had the inlet and the outlet above the case with the rad flipped I will have to use more tubing to run all the way down the length of the case to the rubber grommets near the GPU's. Also, I will have to use more tubing and have more bends in order to stick a rad in between the GPU's and CPU. I think I will just reverse the arrows in my diagram and run the loop that way. As long as no one sees any problems with the loop that way.


Less tubing is purely an aesthetics thing, it would take yards of tubing to make a single degree of temp difference. It takes a bunch of sharp 90 degree fittings to make a single degree change as well.

Martin and Skinee have done the testing on this.

A loop that you can't get properly filled or bled will have a much greater effect on temps, as well as create other problems.

never mind, it's your loop, do it your way, I'm gonna shut up and go back to the kitchen now.

Darlene


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Less tubing is purely an aesthetics thing, it would take yards of tubing to make a single degree of temp difference. It takes a bunch of sharp 90 degree fittings to make a single degree change as well.
> 
> Martin and Skinee have done the testing on this.
> 
> A loop that you can't get properly filled or bled will have a much greater effect on temps, as well as create other problems.
> 
> never mind, it's your loop, do it your way, I'm gonna shut up and go back to the kitchen now.
> 
> Darlene


Please don't shut up nor go back to the kitchen. I need info like that. I'm having a hard time learning all of this stuff. Ok, so should I do the loop like this?
Pump, Bottom 240 monsta, both GPU's, External 480 monsta, CPU, Top 360 rad, Res? I could just drill a couple holes higher up in the case and that will work perfectly with just a little modding.
So you are saying I should flip the external rad so the fittings are at the top? It will be easier to bleed that way?
Also, would you be able to recommend a pump top for this ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16936/ex-res-419/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM250AC-CL.html?tl=g30c97s165 ) that will be compatible with a xxx655 pump? I definetly want the pump attached to the bottom of the res. That much is a definite.
Also, I have no idea what a return line is so if you could explain what that is and how I can incorporate it into my loop I would really appreciated it.
I truly value your opinions and ideas Darlene so don't ever think I'm pushing them aside.









EDIT: So something like this?


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'll also find it *significantly* easier to bleed if you put the rear rad with the fittings to the top. Add a Tee for a fill point.
> 
> Darlene


Just curious on how this would make it easier to bleed


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'll also find it *significantly* easier to bleed if you put the rear rad with the fittings to the top. Add a Tee for a fill point.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious on how this would make it easier to bleed
Click to expand...

Air is less dense than water and depending on your pump it may have issues pushing the air bubbles down against the forces of physics.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Not disappointing at all man nice work. I think it looks really clean and well put together myself


Is that a dual and a Single radiator?


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Air is less dense than water and depending on your pump it may have issues pushing the air bubbles down against the nature of physics.


Ok ... yes I agree. i was getting bleeding and draining mixed up in my head.

They should start making radiators with the supply inlet on the bottom and the return on top. I guess then there would be issues with hoses and fans though


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Man I gotta stop thinking about those AC Titan blocks with active back plates! I've already pent way too much money on my rig...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Man I gotta stop thinking about those AC Titan blocks with active back plates! I've already pent way too much money on my rig...


What's the difference on the EK blocks? there's a new longer one??? Yes, I know, I haven't taking delivery and I'm already thinking of changing it


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Ok ... yes I agree. i was getting bleeding and draining mixed up in my head.
> 
> They should start making radiators with the supply inlet on the bottom and the return on top. I guess then there would be issues with hoses and fans though


Some have multiple ports, I know some which are like that, but selection is small.


----------



## wermad




----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


Jealous!!!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Hey wermad, the new EK blocks for the Titan run the card very cool. I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't break 30'C with them on your new beasts.









And congrats on your Titans too!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Please don't shut up nor go back to the kitchen. I need info like that. I'm having a hard time learning all of this stuff. Ok, so should I do the loop like this?
> Pump, Bottom 240 monsta, both GPU's, External 480 monsta, CPU, Top 360 rad, Res? I could just drill a couple holes higher up in the case and that will work perfectly with just a little modding.
> So you are saying I should flip the external rad so the fittings are at the top? It will be easier to bleed that way?
> Also, would you be able to recommend a pump top for this ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16936/ex-res-419/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM250AC-CL.html?tl=g30c97s165 ) that will be compatible with a xxx655 pump? I definetly want the pump attached to the bottom of the res. That much is a definite.
> Also, I have no idea what a return line is so if you could explain what that is and how I can incorporate it into my loop I would really appreciated it.
> I truly value your opinions and ideas Darlene so don't ever think I'm pushing them aside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: So something like this?


The res you were first looking at, mounts to the Bitspower pump top with 4 screws thru its square shaped base flange, and comes with a cap with a single hole in the center.

The one I recommended is almost just the same, except it's more flexible to use.

It has a cap at one end with one hole, but the other end cap has 3 holes, and it also comes with a metal tube that screws into one of the holes from the inside, reaching down into the res, so that when you use that top hole to return the loop back to, it won't suck air back into the loop when you turn it off.

The single hole cap can be used on the bottom with a male to male rotary adapter, which connects the res to the pump top. The benefit is that you can rotate the res as needed to get the fittings on the top to be in the best place for what connects to them.

Basically that gives you some more options, so you wouldn't have to try running tubing down behind it for instance, cuz you could connect it to the cap.

On the external 480, I'd look at coming off the rad ports with male to male rotary adapters into "T's" (fittings at the top)and then come out of the "T's" with either rotary 90's and run the tubing straight down behind the case and thru the grommets, or use a lesser angle adapter and route the tubing as you have it in the pic.

Your pic isn't to scale, so there's a lot that you should wait to start plumbing until you have the physicals mounted and can then choose the best approach.

One thing I don't get though, is how come only a 30mm thick top rad?

I measure ~70mm from the rad mounting panel down to the top edge of a mobo, that should fit a XT45 in push pull with about anything except a thermal armor mobo.

You're planning a pretty serious loop for a first timer, so be sure to take it slow and easy, and it'll all come together.

Darlene


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> For those who wait for the GTX titan backplate. First real live photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for those who have no idea how that should work: it is only compatible to our kryographics blocks


oh my lord... wow! damn, i would never drop a g on a single gpu like the titan, but this waterblock is effin awesome! vram cooling on the other side of the pcb too? shii... im a koolance fan boy, but this type of ingenuity has convinced me that aquacomputer is where its at. will you guys implement this type of backplate feature in the future for other graphics cards that have double sided vram such as possibly geforce 700 series and the amd 8000 series? good stuff!


----------



## Enrique602013

Nice your comments. Thanks Darwing


----------



## nleksan

Darlene providing first-class advice as always!

I agree, why not an XT45 up top in push-pull? It would fit, and while the temp differences wouldn't be much, neither is the cost... The only reason I can see to go with the ST30 is if you intend on running REAAAALLY slow fans, in which case it would have the advantage, but considering you have two MONSTA rads in your build, I don't see the point in running slow fans on just the one rad anyway? (You need some strong static pressure, ideally with push-pull, to take advantage of the Monstas' cooling abilities)

What I would consider doing is this:

Res - Pump - Bottom Rad - External Rad - GPU - Top Rad - CPU - Res

The twist is, get a pair of quick-disconnect fittings to mount "in" the rear grommets; this will allow you to move the rear radiator, or remove it, without draining your loop. Then, simply use some Bitspower 90-Degree Single Rotary Adapters to have the tubing shoot straight up, where it connects to the radiator's inlet (and outlet) via another pair of 90-Degree Single-Rotary Adapters.
Assuming you're running push-pull on the Monsta 480 (and I'd recommend that you do), you could simply route each hose along the sides of the fans between the case and the radiator.

Here's an "edited" (I am not a great artist with a mouse lol) version of your mock-up, showing what I mean, as best I can:


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Awesome! You guys are really amazing. I definetly am planning to go big with my first loop ever and it is probably going to be a couple more months before I get everything started. I just want to keep learning and thinking about every little detail before I start making purchases considering I'm going to be spending around $1200 on the loop.
I will reply to your posts after I am able to actually soak in the info and understand what the hell you are talking about















REP to both


----------



## lowfat

Plumbed my HTPC today. Having the PSU directly over top of the motherboard makes for an annoying loop.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCQ25B/20130424-_MG_3269_zps9a2dc662.jpg.html

and some artsy








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCQ25B/20130424-_MG_3267_zps0a822d8a.jpg.html


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Plumbed my HTPC today. Having the PSU directly over top of the motherboard makes for an annoying loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCQ25B/20130424-_MG_3269_zps9a2dc662.jpg.html
> 
> and some artsy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCQ25B/20130424-_MG_3267_zps0a822d8a.jpg.html


That's pretty cool! Nice DOF!


----------



## Bart

Lowfat: nice job in tight spaces man! There looks to be less than 1mm between that fitting and the GPU! Nice pics too.


----------



## PCModderMike

Mmm block looks better with pastel going through it IMO.










EDIT:
Figured might as well share my experience with Durelene over the past 6 weeks. Was running distilled with Mayhems dye and silver coil. At the same time I added the pastel, I also switched back to Primochill, using their new LRT advanced stuff.
Durelene on top and Primochill on the bottom.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Jealous!!!


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Hey wermad, the new EK blocks for the Titan run the card very cool. I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't break 30'C with them on your new beasts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And congrats on your Titans too!


Thanks







. So the longer one does better then the older one (goldfish cracker one I have)? If I don't go with the 3rd, ill swap out the blocks


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

No wermad. The XXL and normal version have the same contact to the pcb. The XXL version is just extended for looks.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Removed my videocard and one of my rads, this is my temp setup till i get a videocard and new case


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> No wermad. The XXL and normal version have the same contact to the pcb. The XXL version is just extended for looks.


Thanks bud









I'm liking the AC backplate, so might just switch to that.


----------



## MrGrievous

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> For those who wait for the GTX titan backplate. First real live photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for those who have no idea how that should work: it is only compatible to our kryographics blocks


[/SPOILER

How would having two Titans with this back plate on each work? Would you need sli links like bitspower's or can I use this bridge link with the backplate?


----------



## MrGrievous

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> For those who wait for the GTX titan backplate. First real live photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for those who have no idea how that should work: it is only compatible to our kryographics blocks


[/SPOILER

How would having two Titans with this back plate on each work? Would you need sli links like bitspower's or can I use this bridge link with the backplate?


----------



## Shoggy

A special variant of our SLI adapters will be available soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> will you guys implement this type of backplate feature in the future for other graphics cards that have double sided vram such as possibly geforce 700 series and the amd 8000 series? good stuff!


Yes, that is the plan


----------



## _REAPER_

Shoggy

I wish you would make a block for the 680 classified


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Darlene providing first-class advice as always!
> 
> I agree, why not an XT45 up top in push-pull? It would fit, and while the temp differences wouldn't be much, neither is the cost... The only reason I can see to go with the ST30 is if you intend on running REAAAALLY slow fans, in which case it would have the advantage, but considering you have two MONSTA rads in your build, I don't see the point in running slow fans on just the one rad anyway? (You need some strong static pressure, ideally with push-pull, to take advantage of the Monstas' cooling abilities)
> 
> What I would consider doing is this:
> 
> Res - Pump - Bottom Rad - External Rad - GPU - Top Rad - CPU - Res
> 
> The twist is, get a pair of quick-disconnect fittings to mount "in" the rear grommets; this will allow you to move the rear radiator, or remove it, without draining your loop. Then, simply use some Bitspower 90-Degree Single Rotary Adapters to have the tubing shoot straight up, where it connects to the radiator's inlet (and outlet) via another pair of 90-Degree Single-Rotary Adapters.
> Assuming you're running push-pull on the Monsta 480 (and I'd recommend that you do), you could simply route each hose along the sides of the fans between the case and the radiator.
> 
> Here's an "edited" (I am not a great artist with a mouse lol) version of your mock-up, showing what I mean, as best I can:


This would work nicely, and avoid making any new cutouts for tubing up top.

The addition of the 90 degree quick disconnects (QDC's) is a good idea.

Thanks for fleshing out what I was trying to convey. +R

Darlene


----------



## Noskcaj

Are there any recommendations for a submersible pump?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Are there any recommendations for a submersible pump?


any fist tank pump?


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> any fist tank pump?


helpful.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Are there any recommendations for a submersible pump?


Hydor pumps.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Here is something I have been working on today. In an attempt to quiet this PMP-500 down to something bearable.

Now some people may say, it might overheat etc. But I *DO NOT CARE*


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Here is something I have been working on today. In an attempt to quiet this PMP-500 down to something bearable.
> 
> Now some people may say, it might overheat etc. But I *DO NOT CARE*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That bad ah?


----------



## Boomstick68

Can you guys recommend a full cover water block for GTX 660's?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boomstick68*
> 
> Can you guys recommend a full cover water block for GTX 660's?


I see from the rig in your sig, you have the Asus DCii version. Unfortunately for you, that's not a reference PCB and no one makes a full cover for it.


----------



## Shoggy

Finally! - Card meets block and backplate


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Hate the block, love the backplate.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Hate the block, love the backplate.


Dood you must be crazy.









It is the best looking block ever.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Dood you must be crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the best looking block ever.


Don't think I would say *ever.* It is pretty darn sexy though.

Just wish it covered more of the PCB.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I love the block and backplate but the passive cooler strikes me as a gimmick rather than a contributing component.
Won't stop me buying the mainstream version when released tho.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Why doesn't more company's offer full blocks like the ek titan xxl and hydrocopper blocks, i hate when so much of the PCB is showing, i would never buy that, unless they made a black version that covered the whole card!


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Why doesn't more company's offer full blocks like the ek titan xxl and hydrocopper blocks, i hate when so much of the PCB is showing, i would never buy that, unless they made a black version that covered the whole card!


Because you simply don't need to make contact with the whole pcb to properly cool it.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Because you simply don't need to make contact with the whole pcb to properly cool it.


Not to mention that covering the entire block for no good reason also adds weight, adds materials, which in turn increases production costs, making it more expensive for you.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Dood you must be crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the best looking block ever.


Yup. Basically.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Why doesn't more company's offer full blocks like the ek titan xxl and hydrocopper blocks, i hate when so much of the PCB is showing, i would never buy that, unless they made a black version that covered the whole card!


BUT, This too.









Thanks - T


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

God I'm going to be forced to buy that block! Trouble is I like matching blocks and AC doesn't make a RIVE block do they?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Don't think I would say *ever.* It is pretty darn sexy though.
> 
> Just wish it covered more of the PCB.


Looking at that photo I would imagine that if it was going to cover the whole PCB it would have to be higher at either end so the design would be fundamentally different, plus it may spoil heat dissipation? It would probably also be far more expensive and it looks expensive to start with.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Just wish it covered more of the PCB.


I like the PCB to show as long as you don't have ugly GPUs. Stick w/ manufacturers who use black soldermasks for the PCBs. Galaxy uses a nice matte black generally. It is a shame to cover up something like that IMO.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Not to mention that covering the entire block for no good reason also adds weight, adds materials, which in turn increases production costs, making it more expensive for you.


But at the same time, those who really want it will dish out the money for it.

I'm a perfect example. Instead of purchasing EK blocks or XSPC blocks for my crossfire 7970's, I went with Komodo blocks. Yeah, they were over $40 more, but I just can't stand looking at bare PCB, especially since I've got a Raven with the 90 degree rotated motherboard tray. While an EK block would have worked fine, I was more than happy to spend the extra money to cover all the PCB.

That being said, it makes more sense for companies to offer a true full coverage solution along WITH a normal solution (what EK did with their Titan blocks). While the majority of their Titan blocks are the standard coverage, they still produce a small amount of the XXL true full coverage for a greater price. While I don't own Titans, this level of variety is impressive.


----------



## Bart

Agreed, variety is good. Let the consumer make the choice, but have options available for practical, cheap nerds like me.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I like the PCB to show as long as you don't have ugly GPUs. Stick w/ manufacturers who use black soldermasks for the PCBs. Galaxy uses a nice matte black generally. It is a shame to cover up something like that IMO.


Mmm matte black PCB, do like.


----------



## natsu2014

Final look of my build (PSU died today so I have to replace it)


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I've spent a little time putting together my build using paint and pictures around the internet (pathetic, I know). I'm just dying to start my loop. Here is what I had yesterday:

and today:

This is exactly how I want it. I wish I knew how use blender!


----------



## PCModderMike

So from looking at those pics...you're using a 360 up top and a 240 at the bottom is that right? Just curious, why do you think it's necessary to also include that rad on the back of the case?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Finally! - Card meets block and backplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, one of the nicest looking blocks on the market, imo. I like the passive cooler on the back too. Looks like it's cooling the back of the power phases?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So from looking at those pics...you're using a 360 up top and a 240 at the bottom is that right? Just curious, why do you think it's necessary to also include that rad on the back of the case?


Also wondering this. I know this is ocn and you can never do too much but was just curious because you will see great temps with a 360 and a 240.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So from looking at those pics...you're using a 360 up top and a 240 at the bottom is that right? Just curious, why do you think it's necessary to also include that rad on the back of the case?


OVERKILLLLL haha. It's not definite though. I might just stick with the 360 and 240 rad. Not sure though.


----------



## PedroC1999

3GPUs and a CPU will put out quite a bit of heat, but I dont really like external rads that are stuck like that, I would buy a stand and just have it on your desk/floor


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> OVERKILLLLL haha. It's not definite though. I might just stick with the 360 and 240 rad. Not sure though.


Overkill.net









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> 3GPUs and a CPU will put out quite a bit of heat, but I dont really like external rads that are stuck like that, I would buy a stand and just have it on your desk/floor


But, this. The build would look much cleaner leaving that rad off....or set it up in a rad box sitting somewhere on the floor maybe.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Overkill.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, this. The build would look much cleaner leaving that rad off....or set it up in a rad box sitting somewhere on the floor maybe.


Maybe even getting a bigger case that can accommodate more rads? Unless that's not in the budget.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> 3GPUs and a CPU will put out quite a bit of heat, but I dont really like external rads that are stuck like that, I would buy a stand and just have it on your desk/floor


I agree with this. I have a 4x140mm SR1 hanging off my desk leg. Keeps my rig significantly quieter and you have no idea it is back there.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Overkill.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, this. The build would look much cleaner leaving that rad off....or set it up in a rad box sitting somewhere on the floor maybe.


I personally like the look of an external rad mounted like that (as long as its neat). I'm going to use some 90 degree fittings and have a clip at the bottom so the tubes run straight down the side of the rad and it looks neat. Also going to sleeve the fan cables and hide them on their way down the rad and have them run inside with the tubes. I don't really want to get a new case because I really like this one and it is brand new. I'm going to do some custom painting on it. I agree that I should of gotten a case better suited for water cooling, but I'm definetly going to work with what I have.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I personally like the look of an external rad mounted like that (as long as its neat). I'm going to use some 90 degree fittings and have a clip at the bottom so the tubes run straight down the side of the rad and it looks neat. Also going to sleeve the fan cables and hide them on their way down the rad and have them run inside with the tubes. I don't really want to get a new case because I really like this one and it is brand new. I'm going to do some custom painting on it. I agree that I should of gotten a case better suited for water cooling, but I'm definetly going to work with what I have.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> THX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8x Noiseblocker PRO PK2 (push)
> 
> Performance of two SR1 560 is impressive, especially since it is not powerful PC ...
> maximum power consumption is 625W (games) to 720W (BarsWf)
> Actually, it was ... because components are changed,these are old pics.
> 
> I have an additional third radiator in 800D (XSPC RX480)
> but this is overkill (it was removed)


This looks good.


----------



## PCModderMike

^Wow, that does look good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I personally like the look of an external rad mounted like that (as long as its neat). I'm going to use some 90 degree fittings and have a clip at the bottom so the tubes run straight down the side of the rad and it looks neat. Also going to sleeve the fan cables and hide them on their way down the rad and have them run inside with the tubes. I don't really want to get a new case because I really like this one and it is brand new. I'm going to do some custom painting on it. I agree that I should of gotten a case better suited for water cooling, but I'm definetly going to work with what I have.


Sounds like a solid plan. I've done an external rad before, on my old 600T, and I agree if done right it can look good. Just a fine line though, between fitting in and looking good, or just looking busted.







But I'm curious to see how yours plays out and again sounds like a solid plan.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> This looks good.


Agreed. That does look good. I wish I had the desk space for that.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I'm looking for some 90 degree fittings for the monsta 480 and the specs are: Connection threads: 6x1/4“; Outlet Connection threads: 1x1/4“. So does that mean I should be looking for G1/4" fittings?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I'm looking for some 90 degree fittings for the monsta 480 and the specs are: Connection threads: 6x1/4"; Outlet Connection threads: 1x1/4". So does that mean I should be looking for G1/4" fittings?


Correct. G1/4.


----------



## ToothBear

i say go for the external radiator. i was alitle in doubt for a while, but i am glad i did it. lowered my temps noticeable. also, i think it looks pretty rad









http://s918.photobucket.com/user/TURBOFUNGUS/media/DSC_2740_zps437c589b.jpg.html


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> i say go for the external radiator. i was alitle in doubt for a while, but i am glad i did it. lowered my temps noticeable. also, i think it looks pretty rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s918.photobucket.com/user/TURBOFUNGUS/media/DSC_2740_zps437c589b.jpg.html


Yea some people like them, some people don't. I know I will like it so I'm definetly going to do it.

BTW I just found these fittings and they are PERFECT for my theme.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18344/ex-tub-1722/ModMyToys_Carbon_Fiber_Enhanced_Compression_Fitting_-_38ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Red_MMT-CFF-RD-BK-3858-6.html?tl=g30c409s1608#blank


----------



## ToothBear

those fittings are great, low profile, and good looking. great for use in tigth places.


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Why doesn't more company's offer full blocks like the ek titan xxl and hydrocopper blocks, i hate when so much of the PCB is showing, i would never buy that, unless they made a black version that covered the whole card!


Copper is expensive. Swiftech's full cover blocks like the Komodo are just covered by the Delrin, it's not fully covered by the copper. If AC were to fully cover the PCB in clear cast acrylic, it'd probably look sorta silly.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> i say go for the external radiator. i was alitle in doubt for a while, but i am glad i did it. lowered my temps noticeable. also, i think it looks pretty rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s918.photobucket.com/user/TURBOFUNGUS/media/DSC_2740_zps437c589b.jpg.html


More! I want more of this! Where can I find a build log?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Mrxxxxxxxxxx17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> More! I want more of this! Where can I find a build log?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


i agree


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This would work nicely, and avoid making any new cutouts for tubing up top.
> 
> The addition of the 90 degree quick disconnects (QDC's) is a good idea.
> 
> Thanks for fleshing out what I was trying to convey. +R
> 
> Darlene


No I hate the external rad!! Lol cases now a days are huge and can more then accommodate for a dual rad, I have a mid sized old antec 900 and it had enough room for a dual cross flow radiator and an additional 120mm rad without showing the radiators or tubes. Get a cross flow rad if you can in order to continue with the flow of your loop


Pump -> XSPC GPU Water Block -> XSPC Raystorm block -> XSPC Dual Cross flow radiator -> Frozen Q Reservoir -> Thermaltake 120mm Radiator -> back to the pump.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> No I hate the external rad!! Lol cases now a days are huge and can more then accommodate for a dual rad, I have a mid sized old antec 900 and it had enough room for a dual cross flow radiator and an additional 120mm rad without showing the radiators or tubes. Get a cross flow rad if you can in order to continue with the flow of your loop
> 
> 
> Pump -> XSPC GPU Water Block -> XSPC Raystorm block -> XSPC Dual Cross flow radiator -> Frozen Q Reservoir -> Thermaltake 120mm Radiator -> back to the pump.


LOVE the external rad


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> LOVE the external rad


Ewe ugh ?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> LOVE the external rad


Dbl post cause I am so appalled


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> No I hate the external rad!! Lol cases now a days are huge and can more then accommodate for a dual rad, I have a mid sized old antec 900 and it had enough room for a dual cross flow radiator and an additional 120mm rad without showing the radiators or tubes. Get a cross flow rad if you can in order to continue with the flow of your loop
> 
> 
> Pump -> XSPC GPU Water Block -> XSPC Raystorm block -> XSPC Dual Cross flow radiator -> Frozen Q Reservoir -> Thermaltake 120mm Radiator -> back to the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> LOVE the external rad
Click to expand...

Frogive me if I'm wrong but don't you lose cooling performance when you use crossflow rads ? I thought those crossflows were single pass rads as opposed to the regular double pass rads ? If I'm not wrong then you're basically cutting your loop in half almost. Be better off to ditch the crossflows and just use a few angled fittings to get your loop looking right.


----------



## MrGrievous

does anyone know of a reservoir that has a g 1/4 hole right ibn the middle at the bottom of the res? I'm trying to use this top with the use of this fitting (ideally) or this one (if the 1st is too hrd to screw in). I havn't seen anything yet and the closest thing I found would be this res that has enough room for a hole to be drilled for g 1/4 plug or just settle for a off centered res. Thoughts?


----------



## Lazy Bear

I'm not usually one for cell phone pictures, but here's where I am now.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> does anyone know of a reservoir that has a g 1/4 hole right ibn the middle at the bottom of the res? I'm trying to use this top with the use of this fitting (ideally) or this one (if the 1st is too hrd to screw in). I havn't seen anything yet and the closest thing I found would be this res that has enough room for a hole to be drilled for g 1/4 plug or just settle for a off centered res. Thoughts?


I can't think of one but you could grab any res with a hole in the middle of the top (most reservoirs) and just get an extra set of caps and take the top one of the spare set and screw it onto the bottom of the res


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My BP 150mm res has a G1/4 hole in the middle on one end and three G1/4 holes on the other. As far as I know it can be placed in either orientation.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I'm not usually one for cell phone pictures, but here's where I am now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would turn that bottom rad around to shorten the tube....other than that, looks good.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My BP 150mm res has a G1/4 hole in the middle on one end and three G1/4 holes on the other. As far as I know it can be placed in either orientation.


^^ as he said
I am using mine with the cap with middle hole for the bottom (outlet)


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I'm not usually one for cell phone pictures, but here's where I am now.


I agree with flipping the tube. Other than that, I love it. You balanced green with black perfectly, it doesn't look like it puked neon


----------



## Lazy Bear

Radiator does not fit because of the PSU, so, sorry, no can do.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Radiator does not fit because of the PSU, so, sorry, no can do.


ehh, it still looks good.


----------



## MrGrievous

Thats a great idea. but I'm actually in favor of the EK-Multioption RES X2 - 250 Basic over the Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 - POM. Why? Well the Bitspower doesn't seem to have the two acryril tubes inside hte res like the ek one does.

Now does anyone know if the ek res caps are reversible


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Thats a great idea. but I'm actually in favor of the EK-Multioption RES X2 - 250 Basic over the Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 - POM. Why? Well the Bitspower doesn't seem to have the two acryril tubes inside hte res like the ek one does.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now does anyone know if the ek res caps are reversible


Yes they are reversible

edit: I just screwed mine on the opposite ends to check


----------



## Lazy Bear

Better pictures:


Spoiler: Warning: Big pictures!


----------



## MrGrievous

Awesome! Thanks for all those who helped +rep


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Better pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Big pictures!


From one guy who loves green to another, looks great!


----------



## Lazy Bear

Thank you very much!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Better pictures:


A build as good as this does not deserve a spoiler








very classy finish!

did you change the led on the cpu block?
Id love to see that in green as well


----------



## Lazy Bear

I did, but for some reason they aren't working. I'm going to get new ones that have molex connectors, since I don't want to bother with figuring them out. I figured the 3pin connectors would be regular 3pins, but they're like what you see on case control headers. Very strange.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Frogive me if I'm wrong but don't you lose cooling performance when you use crossflow rads ? I thought those crossflows were single pass rads as opposed to the regular double pass rads ? If I'm not wrong then you're basically cutting your loop in half almost. Be better off to ditch the crossflows and just use a few angled fittings to get your loop looking right.


I'm fairly certain you are wrong, about the performance degration on cross-flow, I think that a continuous flow in your loop A) increases the ultimate flow of the water, the less bends and curves and 90 degree angles the better the flow. Granted we are talking minimal a few degrees at best!!!

I feel that esthetics out weighs the 2-3 degree difference, Hence the cross-flow usage, especially in a mid size tower where you don't have much room to conceal the second tube going back to the pump, where mine flows right to the reservoir, into another radiator without you seeing a single tube in the process.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Frogive me if I'm wrong but don't you lose cooling performance when you use crossflow rads ? I thought those crossflows were single pass rads as opposed to the regular double pass rads ? If I'm not wrong then you're basically cutting your loop in half almost. Be better off to ditch the crossflows and just use a few angled fittings to get your loop looking right.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm fairly certain you are wrong, about the performance degration on cross-flow, I think that a continuous flow in your loop A) increases the ultimate flow of the water, the less bends and curves and 90 degree angles the better the flow. Granted we are talking minimal a few degrees at best!!!
> 
> I feel that esthetics out weighs the 2-3 degree difference, Hence the cross-flow usage, especially in a mid size tower where you don't have much room to conceal the second tube going back to the pump, where mine flows right to the reservoir, into another radiator without you seeing a single tube in the process.
Click to expand...

There is a performance hit using xflow rads and it is because the rad is single pass.


----------



## Jameswalt1

My 900D build is 95% complete, just waiting on a couple of small custom pieces. Booted up and running great.


----------



## MKHunt

I see you aren't fond of EK









Love those pastels btw. Pastels are just so beautiful. Nice job on the fan rings as well! Great match.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a performance hit using xflow rads and it is because the rad is single pass.


I take looks and less tube runs over the small performance gain I'd say, but that's just me. There are a ton of people on here with like 3-4 rads sticking out the front back top bottom! Lol I think it's hideous but to eaches own


----------



## tanton

Just finished my first water cooled rig about a couple of weeks ago.











I am throwing in another 7970 later


----------



## Shultzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> I'm not usually one for cell phone pictures, but here's where I am now.


Are those the cooler master r4 fans? If they are, I was just curious as to how loud they actually are at full speed (2000rpm)? and maybe a little less at 1200 - 1500rpm?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a performance hit using xflow rads and it is because the rad is single pass.


This. But not much. The small hit is a fair trade off for a clean and easy loop IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> My 900D build is 95% complete, just waiting on a couple of small custom pieces. Booted up and running great.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You were right, I don't see but a speck of red on the motherboard now that you're done. Good job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tanton*
> 
> Just finished my first water cooled rig about a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am throwing in another 7970 later


Good work.


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Frogive me if I'm wrong but don't you lose cooling performance when you use crossflow rads ? I thought those crossflows were single pass rads as opposed to the regular double pass rads ? If I'm not wrong then you're basically cutting your loop in half almost. Be better off to ditch the crossflows and just use a few angled fittings to get your loop looking right.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm fairly certain you are wrong, about the performance degration on cross-flow, I think that a continuous flow in your loop A) increases the ultimate flow of the water, the less bends and curves and 90 degree angles the better the flow. Granted we are talking minimal a few degrees at best!!!
> 
> I feel that esthetics out weighs the 2-3 degree difference, Hence the cross-flow usage, especially in a mid size tower where you don't have much room to conceal the second tube going back to the pump, where mine flows right to the reservoir, into another radiator without you seeing a single tube in the process.
Click to expand...

Actually I looked it up and I was right there is a difference in crossflow rads due to them being single pass as opposed to a dual pass rad.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Frogive me if I'm wrong but don't you lose cooling performance when you use crossflow rads ? I thought those crossflows were single pass rads as opposed to the regular double pass rads ? If I'm not wrong then you're basically cutting your loop in half almost. Be better off to ditch the crossflows and just use a few angled fittings to get your loop looking right.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm fairly certain you are wrong, about the performance degration on cross-flow, I think that a continuous flow in your loop A) increases the ultimate flow of the water, the less bends and curves and 90 degree angles the better the flow. Granted we are talking minimal a few degrees at best!!!
> 
> I feel that esthetics out weighs the 2-3 degree difference, Hence the cross-flow usage, especially in a mid size tower where you don't have much room to conceal the second tube going back to the pump, where mine flows right to the reservoir, into another radiator without you seeing a single tube in the process.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There is a performance hit using xflow rads and it is because the rad is single pass.
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying this B Negative.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a performance hit using xflow rads and it is because the rad is single pass.
> 
> 
> 
> I take looks and less tube runs over the small performance gain I'd say, but that's just me. There are a ton of people on here with like 3-4 rads sticking out the front back top bottom! Lol I think it's hideous but to eaches own
Click to expand...

Definitely to each his own. But I have 4 rads inside my case and there is a very minimum amount of tubing. And my temps are awesome. But also my case is a full sized tower.


----------



## Scottypimpin

Here's one a did a while back in a Danger Den Water Box.
I7-920
6870
Evga X-58 board

2x black ice xtreme 240 rads
Ek gpu wb
Heat killer cpu wb
Ek motherboard wb
DDC pump with xspc top

Working on a Silverstone tj08-e as we speak.





































Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Stickeelion

A crossflow rad when designed properly can perform as well or even better than regular rads. The reason many crossflow rads for PC's don't perform as well is because most the time the companies take a regular rad and just change the end tanks on them. Look at automotive rads, there are many single pass radiators there that perform very well.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tanton*
> 
> Just finished my first water cooled rig about a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am throwing in another 7970 later


For a first timer, you did a good job.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> A crossflow rad when designed properly can perform as well or even better than regular rads. The reason many crossflow rads for PC's don't perform as well is because most the time the companies take a regular rad and just change the end tanks on them. Look at automotive rads, there are many single pass radiators there that perform very well.


Show me an automotive rad with dual pass to compare with then?
Saying the single pass rads perform equal or better when there is no point of comparison is misleading.
Crossflow rads just don't perform as well as the water doesn't stay in the dissapation area as long as a normal dual pass.
I did the testing for Mayhems quad pass rads,they performed as well as my GTX rads at the same fan speeds with less than half the FPI.

Xflow rads are good if you dont have room for fittings when used as a top rad.


----------



## Jakusonfire

If rads are from the same series but differ only in their flow design I don't see why water would spend any less time in them.

A random volume of water, moving through a dual pass rad moves through say 7 tubes one way, 7 tubes the other way.
The same volume through a single pass cross flow just moves through 14 tubes one way.

The volume of water moving through the dual pass rad moves at faster speed, because of the lower overall diameter of the 7 tubes, but has a longer distance to travel.
The volume moving through the single pass moves slower through a greater overall diameter of 14 tubes but has half the distance to travel.

In the end though the same volume of water is in the same size tubes of the same overall length and diameter. One design may work better than the other for some reason but I can't see any reason why there would be a huge difference.


----------



## ToothBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> More! I want more of this! Where can I find a build log?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


i doesn't have a proper buildlog on this one (a bad one in norwegian, LOL) but i can post some more pictures soon if you want. the inside looks like a mess rigth now, so i have no pictures of that.. i see from your signature that you also have a hackintosh, good job! looking forward to see more from your build, as the g5 is my favourite case.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If rads are from the same series but differ only in their flow design I don't see why water would spend any less time in them.


random number for distance from port in to port out = 20 ..... crossflow rad = single pass = 20 ...... 'normal' rad = dual pass rad = 40
it takes longer to travel 40 miles at 35mph than it does to travel 20 miles at 35mph
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The volume of water moving through the dual pass rad moves at faster speed, because of the lower overall diameter of the 7 tubes, but has a longer distance to travel.
> The volume moving through the single pass moves slower through a greater overall diameter of 14 tubes but has half the distance to travel.


how does water's speed change depending on dual pass vs single pass? 2gpm = 2gpm does it not?
im not a thermal dynamics major but math's addition, subtraction, division, multiplication and fractions is a no brainer for me.

*EDIT*
but after 2 minutes thought, less water staying in the 'cooling zone' for a longer amount of time. more water being in the cooling zone a shorter amount of time. with flow rate being equal, that would be why there is such a small difference.
just forget my post. im not an engineer and it would take 1 to explain why dual pass cools better than single pass.,or i've gotten dumb since finishing school.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Do you guys think a Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 180mm Dual Radiator with fans in push/pull will be enough to cool a 3930k and SLI Titans?
The surface area on this rad is a tad more then a 480 quad radiator..


----------



## PedroC1999

No, maybe that AND a 240 in conjunction


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If rads are from the same series but differ only in their flow design I don't see why water would spend any less time in them.
> 
> 
> 
> random number for distance from port in to port out = 20 ..... crossflow rad = single pass = 20 ...... 'normal' rad = dual pass rad = 40
> it takes longer to travel 40 miles at 35mph than it does to travel 20 miles at 35mph
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The volume of water moving through the dual pass rad moves at faster speed, because of the lower overall diameter of the 7 tubes, but has a longer distance to travel.
> The volume moving through the single pass moves slower through a greater overall diameter of 14 tubes but has half the distance to travel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> how does water's speed change depending on dual pass vs single pass? 2gpm = 2gpm does it not?
> im not a thermal dynamics major but math's addition, subtraction, division, multiplication and fractions is a no brainer for me.
> 
> *EDIT*
> but after 2 minutes thought, less water staying in the 'cooling zone' for a longer amount of time. more water being in the cooling zone a shorter amount of time. with flow rate being equal, that would be why there is such a small difference.
> just forget my post. im not an engineer and it would take 1 to explain why dual pass cools better than single pass.,or i've gotten dumb since finishing school.
Click to expand...

the gpm reading is normally read from the tubing,when it enters the rad the GPM normally drops as there is more volumetric flow room,the GPM goes back to normal when re-entering the tubing.

Either way,single pass gets beat by dual gets beat by quad.
The difference is small but noticeable.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Do you guys think a Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 180mm Dual Radiator with fans in push/pull will be enough to cool a 3930k and SLI Titans?
> The surface area on this rad is a tad more then a 480 quad radiator..


I have a Raven as well (RV02 though), and let me tell you modding for the triple 180mm was the best thing I could do for the build.

To kind of give you an idea, I've got an i7 3820 and two Radeon 7970's. CPU idles at about 25C in my basement, with deltas around 10-15 degrees depending on the weather (basement isn't heated/cooled). Cards run similar. I'm running a Magicool triple 180mm and an EX120 on the top.

I can't really tell what the RV04 has for radiator space from google images pictures, but you'll be using most of the fan holes for radiators, if not all of them. While you could cool all of those parts with a dual 180mm, you may not be happy with the delta temperatures when your system goes under load.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Do you guys think a Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 180mm Dual Radiator with fans in push/pull will be enough to cool a 3930k and SLI Titans?
> The surface area on this rad is a tad more then a 480 quad radiator..


O misread.

But I still think it should be sufficient.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I have a Raven as well (RV02 though), and let me tell you modding for the triple 180mm was the best thing I could do for the build.
> 
> To kind of give you an idea, I've got an i7 3820 and two Radeon 7970's. CPU idles at about 25C in my basement, with deltas around 10-15 degrees depending on the weather (basement isn't heated/cooled). Cards run similar. I'm running a Magicool triple 180mm and an EX120 on the top.
> 
> I can't really tell what the RV04 has for radiator space from google images pictures, but you'll be using most of the fan holes for radiators, if not all of them. While you could cool all of those parts with a dual 180mm, you may not be happy with the delta temperatures when your system goes under load.


Don't want to put more then one rad in the RV04..

In my RV03 I had a hwlab gt240 and hwlab gtx240 with ap15s in push/pull with my [email protected] and gtx690 and i was getting 40c on th cpu and 30-35c on the gpu and was happy with that.

The Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 180mm Dual is more surface area then a 480rad and is 10mm thicker then the Magicool 180mm Rads..

So how much hotter would SLI Titans be compared to a single Gtx690?


----------



## sakmeo95

Aerocool Strike-X Air Water Cooling :Orange Edition













mesh to acrylic.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkIJjSC2O9c


----------



## Scottypimpin

That's ridiculous, a 480 is plenty for 2 gpu's and a cpu. Just get yourself good fans and a strong pump, you'll be fine.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Actually I looked it up and I was right there is a difference in crossflow rads due to them being single pass as opposed to a dual pass rad.
> Thanks for clarifying this B Negative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely to each his own. But I have 4 rads inside my case and there is a very minimum amount of tubing. And my temps are awesome. But also my case is a full sized tower.


I'd have to say that is one of the better cleaner loops I've seen with as many rads as you have! It's direct and easy flow to follow ?

There are many rigs on here that have rads pumping out the back or just ugly sitting in the case with tubes everywhere. I chose cross flow because I'm using a mid tower (Antec 900!) and really wanted it to be clean placing two rads in there is nothing short of a miracle lol


----------



## nicoliani

*> Aquacomputer Poweradjust 2 USB Drive Bay Mounting*


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *> Aquacomputer Poweradjust 2 USB Drive Bay Mounting*


I am pretty sure you have done something wrong there with the assembly. The red status LED should be even with the front but in your photo I can not see anything of the LED.


----------



## nicoliani

You are right. Comparing the front screws I got with other images of the drive bay, mine stick out some mm, while the others are fully inside the hole.
But still the LED could not be even.



*EDIT:* OK, I see now, that the mount came with its own screws for the PA2, meaning I need to change them. How many rings should I attach to the two screws at the left side?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> Aerocool Strike-X Air Water Cooling :Orange Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> m
> 
> 
> o acrylic.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkIJjSC2O9c


That is really cool man!!!


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> Aerocool Strike-X Air Water Cooling :Orange Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mesh to acrylic.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkIJjSC2O9c


Diggin this, well done


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> the gpm reading is normally read from the tubing,when it enters the rad the GPM normally drops as there is more volumetric flow room,the GPM goes back to normal when re-entering the tubing.
> 
> Either way,single pass gets beat by dual gets beat by quad.
> The difference is small but noticeable.


GPM is the volumetric flow as you say, BUT volumetric flow does never change in a closed loop. The volumetric flow through a rad (single, quad, trizillion pass) and the flow through the tube leading to that rad is identical.
The only thing changing is the velocity of the water, not the quantity passing through.

If you compare a single pass radiator and a dual pass radiator the amount of flow going through the rad is identical. In essence you can compare it to a dual GPU loop. When in series (dual pass) the speed of the water through the channels is higher, due to less room to pass through. When parallel (single pass) the total surface of the cross-section of the channels is higher and thus is the speed of the water lower.
The only reason why a dual pass radiator could be more efficient is because water is more effective in passing away it's heat when you have a (very) turbulent flow. Because a radiator has a lot of parallel tubes to start with the velocity of the water is fairly low compared to the flow in a cpu-block. Because a single pass radiator has twice the tubes ran in parallel compared to the dual pass radiator the velocity of the water is even lower. And thus leading to worse performance.

In the automotive industry the flow of the water through the radiators is so much higher than what we work with it doesn't make a difference whether or not you have dual or single pass since the flow is always turbulent. Whatever you throw at it. However a single pass radiator won't perform better than a dual pass version.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> random number for distance from port in to port out = 20 ..... crossflow rad = single pass = 20 ...... 'normal' rad = dual pass rad = 40
> it takes longer to travel 40 miles at 35mph than it does to travel 20 miles at 35mph
> how does water's speed change depending on dual pass vs single pass? 2gpm = 2gpm does it not?
> im not a thermal dynamics major but math's addition, subtraction, division, multiplication and fractions is a no brainer for me.
> 
> *EDIT*
> but after 2 minutes thought, less water staying in the 'cooling zone' for a longer amount of time. more water being in the cooling zone a shorter amount of time. with flow rate being equal, that would be why there is such a small difference.
> just forget my post. im not an engineer and it would take 1 to explain why dual pass cools better than single pass.,or i've gotten dumb since finishing school.


The volume of water moves faster while in the dual pass rad because the same volume of water has to travel the length of the rad through 7 tubes rather than 14. To do that it increases velocity, the flow Volume ... remains the same. It is the same as getting the same flow volume rate through a wide pipe requires the water to move slower than it does through a narrow pipe.

7 tubes of 2 X your given 20 length is the same volume as 14 tubes 20 Length. The same Volume of water in the cooling zone, for the same amount of time.

The water moves faster inside the rad .... but travels from the in port to the out port at exactly the same Flow Rate.

Edit : This old paper compared two rads that were identical except for being normal vs crossflow and found a 5 Watt cooling difference, out of 160 watts or a 3% difference.
Not even worth considering.

http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_Papers/Assessment%20of%20Radiator%20Performance.pdf


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> the gpm reading is normally read from the tubing,when it enters the rad the GPM normally drops as there is more volumetric flow room,the GPM goes back to normal when re-entering the tubing.
> 
> Either way,single pass gets beat by dual gets beat by quad.
> The difference is small but noticeable.
> 
> 
> 
> GPM is the volumetric flow as you say, BUT volumetric flow does never change in a closed loop. The volumetric flow through a rad (single, quad, trizillion pass) and the flow through the tube leading to that rad is identical.
> The only thing changing is the velocity of the water, not the quantity passing through.
> 
> If you compare a single pass radiator and a dual pass radiator the amount of flow going through the rad is identical. In essence you can compare it to a dual GPU loop. When in series (dual pass) the speed of the water through the channels is higher, due to less room to pass through. When parallel (single pass) the total surface of the cross-section of the channels is higher and thus is the speed of the water lower.
> The only reason why a dual pass radiator could be more efficient is because water is more effective in passing away it's heat when you have a (very) turbulent flow. Because a radiator has a lot of parallel tubes to start with the velocity of the water is fairly low compared to the flow in a cpu-block. Because a single pass radiator has twice the tubes ran in parallel compared to the dual pass radiator the velocity of the water is even lower. And thus leading to worse performance.
> 
> In the automotive industry the flow of the water through the radiators is so much higher than what we work with it doesn't make a difference whether or not you have dual or single pass since the flow is always turbulent. Whatever you throw at it. However a single pass radiator won't perform better than a dual pass version.
Click to expand...

You are correct,I misapplied GPM.

The slower speeds of the water would generate less laminar flow which would give better,not worse,performance for a single pass.
High velocity water that you would find in a dual pass would encourage it,hence the use of flattened tubes to disrupt it.

The end tank also helps by remixing the water for return I would hazard a guess.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> *EDIT:* OK, I see now, that the mount came with its own screws for the PA2, meaning I need to change them. How many rings should I attach to the two screws at the left side?


I am already out of the office so I can not take a look in the parts list. How many washers do you have? If I remember correctly you do not apply any washers to the stand off parts in the left and right corner because the mounting brackets already add some height.


----------



## nicoliani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I am already out of the office so I can not take a look in the parts list. How many washers do you have? If I remember correctly you do not apply any washers to the stand off parts in the left and right corner because the mounting brackets already add some height.


I got it right now, I applied two washers, one next to the plate, and the other on the mount of the PA2. So now the device is in-line with the stand off parts.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicoliani*
> 
> So now the device is in-line with the stand off parts.


----------



## DonPablo83

Got a tricky question... if I set my wc loop to run from the bottom gpu 3 - gpu 2 - gpu 1 then cpu, would this have an adverse affect on flow rates? Is it more efficient to have your loop running down hill rather than up hill? Would this issue apply to vertical standing rads vs horizontal rads? Any help would be much appreciated. If I havent articulated my question clearly, my apologies its coz im on night work.


----------



## wermad

I has green liquid


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> Aerocool Strike-X Air Water Cooling :Orange Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mesh to acrylic.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkIJjSC2O9c


YESSS finally someone has done something with this case...i wanted to get one as a test bench (plus i think they look wicked)...good to see a wc'ing setup to....very nice man....my credit card hates you already


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> YESSS finally someone has done something with this case...i wanted to get one as a test bench (plus i think they look wicked)...good to see a wc'ing setup to....very nice man....my credit card hates you already


You need some fan guards, that thing will be turned into a meat blender in not time


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I can't think of one but you could grab any res with a hole in the middle of the top (most reservoirs) and just get an extra set of caps and take the top one of the spare set and screw it onto the bottom of the res


I would just buy (if you don't already have) a G1/4" Tap. (19 tpi)
then drill a hole where you want and tap it. I got mine off of ebay.
came in a week.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> YESSS finally someone has done something with this case...i wanted to get one as a test bench (plus i think they look wicked)...good to see a wc'ing setup to....very nice man....my credit card hates you already


I like the open concept as well and like what Sakmeo95 has done.








check these out if you want some more ideas.
http://www.pcworld.fr/images/galerie,aerocool-strike-x-air,172,1245944.htm
my next build is probally going to be green (and some other colour) and possibly this open case design modded.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I has green liquid


No pastel?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> Aerocool Strike-X Air Water Cooling :Orange Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mesh to acrylic.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkIJjSC2O9c


Awesome! Had been looking at that test bench, looks much better in person







. UP7 needs an XSPC block to complete it imho:


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> Aerocool Strike-X Air Water Cooling :Orange Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mesh to acrylic.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkIJjSC2O9c


Thought this bench looked like ass until you posted these pictures. Very very impressed, you made it look amazing. I love the 480 on the side and everything.


----------



## MrGrievous

This question goes out to shoggy who I think is the only one who can answer this. I want to use AQ Titan block with the newly released AQ Titan backplate but would I be/need to use the kryoconnect for two Titans or do I need some sli fitings to connects the Titans?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> No pastel?


Nope, you wouldn't be able to see the helix' in the bay reservoir(s). With the ccfl, you can see it even w/ the Mayhems Emerald green. Might pick up some mayhems uv green instead.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> This question goes out to shoggy who I think is the only one who can answer this. I want to use AQ Titan block with the newly released AQ Titan backplate but would I be/need to use the kryoconnect for two Titans or do I need some sli fitings to connects the Titans?


You will need a special variant of the kryoconnect adapter which is not available yet.


----------



## MrGrievous

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I would just buy (if you don't already have) a G1/4" Tap. (19 tpi)
> then drill a hole where you want and tap it. I got mine off of ebay.
> came in a week.





I was considering that but the problem I'm concerned about is that there isn't enough room for two fittings on the top as I would want one for the fill port and the other one to be part of the loop. Now the image below shows the X2 top that I will be using and then the X3 top to show the space available at the top. Do you think two fittings will fit on the top of the res?


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I would just buy (if you don't already have) a G1/4" Tap. (19 tpi)
> then drill a hole where you want and tap it. I got mine off of ebay.
> came in a week.


FrozenCPU sells them too

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11150/too-25/Industrial_High-Speed_Steel_British_Standard_Thread_Tap_-_14-19_BSPP.html?tl=g44c133s1365


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Finally! - Card meets block and backplate


That is by far the best block for the TItan


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> That is by far the best block for the TItan


Fix that for you.









Honestly, its the best *GPU* block I have seen.


----------



## wermad

If you fancy the AC Titan block in copper/plexi:

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p15410_Aquacomputer-kryographics-for-GTX-TITAN-acrylic-glass-edition.html


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> No I hate the external rad!! Lol cases now a days are huge and can more then accommodate for a dual rad, I have a mid sized old antec 900 and it had enough room for a dual cross flow radiator and an additional 120mm rad without showing the radiators or tubes. Get a cross flow rad if you can in order to continue with the flow of your loop
> 
> 
> Pump -> XSPC GPU Water Block -> XSPC Raystorm block -> XSPC Dual Cross flow radiator -> Frozen Q Reservoir -> Thermaltake 120mm Radiator -> back to the pump.


Why would you mount your RES like that can you put on the side of your case?


----------



## wermad

^^^ Maybe she/he ran out of space? Looks a bit cramped inside


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Agreed Karlitos. I really love my EK blocks but the AC's are incredible...


----------



## soulreaper05

Here is my updated and renovated rig.

Remember this...










Well, that is now this.




























Yes, I know that the pci cables look tangled and messy, but they are like 2" too short for me to be able to wrap them around.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Here is my updated and renovated rig.
> 
> Remember this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that is now this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I know that the pci cables look tangled and messy, but they are like 2" too short for me to be able to wrap them around.


What a transformation!!!!!!!!






























Tbh, I did like the colors in the "before" setup







.


----------



## Sethris225

Can't join this club quite yet but,
just a quick question:
is there any benefit to more liquid? For example, would my temps be any better if I had a 400mm res rather than a 160mm? Does the liquid have more space to dissipate heat?


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Can't join this club quite yet but,
> just a quick question:
> is there any benefit to more liquid? For example, would my temps be any better if I had a 400mm res rather than a 160mm? Does the liquid have more space to dissipate heat?


it increases the time for the loop to reach it's max temp, so lower temps for a few minutes.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Can't join this club quite yet but,
> just a quick question:
> is there any benefit to more liquid? For example, would my temps be any better if I had a 400mm res rather than a 160mm? Does the liquid have more space to dissipate heat?


In large applications, a larger reservior would mean the water has time to cool off before entering the pump again. However for computers, the application is so small that a larger reservior makes a negligible, if any difference. So no, a larger reservior will not yield lower temperatures.


----------



## _REAPER_

How long does it normally take a loop to reach max temp


----------



## WebsterXC

Well it all depends on what you mean by max temp. Are you talking about idle temperature or full load temperature?


----------



## sakmeo95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That is really cool man!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Diggin this, well done


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> YESSS finally someone has done something with this case...i wanted to get one as a test bench (plus i think they look wicked)...good to see a wc'ing setup to....very nice man....my credit card hates you already


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome! Had been looking at that test bench, looks much better in person
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . UP7 needs an XSPC block to complete it imho:


coming soon.in http://www.overclockzone.com/forums/showthread.php/2142064
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Thought this bench looked like ass until you posted these pictures. Very very impressed, you made it look amazing. I love the 480 on the side and everything.


Thanks so much everyone.


----------



## kingchris

question guys,
need a new gpu for my i5 2500k side of my Dual build, but i want a full cover block (not one showing the pcb's)
dont need to be high end, just able to have a full cover.

will be used for gaming, (has a hd6970 at the moment and it looks crap)
cheers.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> question guys,
> need a new gpu for my i5 2500k side of my Dual build, but i want a full cover block (not one showing the pcb's)
> dont need to be high end, just able to have a full cover.
> 
> will be used for gaming, (has a hd6970 at the moment and it looks crap)
> cheers.


GTX 670 w/ the small pcb. Most fullcover blocks cover the entire pcb:



edit: if you want to keep it w/ the ek theme like your 690 has:


----------



## khemist

Delete.


----------



## khemist

Got my Aquacomputer copper/plexi ordered for the titan, should be here Monday/Tuesday- XSPC one will be getting sold.


----------



## kingchris

thanks wermad!


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What a transformation!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tbh, I did like the colors in the "before" setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, got the rog board, thought I'd go with rog colors too.


----------



## darwing

I just finished the Antec 900 dual & Single Radiator modification!!!

final touches on the new window and Reservoir viewing! finished the cable management at the back (I cant believe it closed!)it doesn't even look like an antec 900 anymore!!!






The tight waterloop through a dual cross flow and single radiator, you can't even tell they are in there!!



I wanted it to be as clean, and short and efficient as possible. I bought a cross flow radiator so I didnt have to bring tubing down to the pump again, the flow goes as follows:

Pump -> XSPC GPU Water Block -> XSPC Raystorm block -> XSPC Dual Cross flow radiator -> Frozen Q Reservoir -> Thermaltake 120mm Radiator -> back to the pump.


----------



## DonPablo83

if I set my wc loop to run from the bottom gpu 3 - gpu 2 - gpu 1 then cpu, would this have an adverse affect on flow rates? Is it more efficient to have your loop running down hill rather than up hill? Would this issue apply to vertical standing rads vs horizontal rads? Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Yeah, got the rog board, thought I'd go with rog colors too.


Which dye? Maybe something like this:

Mayhems Deep Red



I know once in the tube its not the same but I've enjoyed Mayhem's nice colors.


----------



## soulreaper05

I used ekoolant blood red. It's not uv reactive though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I used ekoolant blood red. It's not uv reactive though.


Definitely try Mayhems. Its pretty awesome stuff.


----------



## phantasml

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Here is my updated and renovated rig.
> 
> Remember this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that is now this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I know that the pci cables look tangled and messy, but they are like 2" too short for me to be able to wrap them around.


Wow that's a big improvement!! Just need to sleeve some cables and should be epic! Congratz


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Definitely try Mayhems. Its pretty awesome stuff.


I'll have to look for it, some of the ekoolant colors can gum up the blocks.

Thanks phantasml! My CPU power connectors are next after making my pci cables 2" longer.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Only waiting for another top and c47's then its tube bending time....acrylic for a change.



And my BP res now feels inadequate,Never mind the length,feel the girth!


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> Got a tricky question... if I set my wc loop to run from the bottom gpu 3 - gpu 2 - gpu 1 then cpu, would this have an adverse affect on flow rates? Is it more efficient to have your loop running down hill rather than up hill? Would this issue apply to vertical standing rads vs horizontal rads? Any help would be much appreciated. If I havent articulated my question clearly, my apologies its coz im on night work.


I can't imagine you're using a pump where the half foot of liquid head built up in travelling vertically through blocks would make a noticeable difference. Typically you have your pump below your reservoir anyways, so pumping up through your blocks will almost always be better than pumping up through your reservoir (which could cause air pockets and ruin your pump, depending on your res).


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I can't imagine you're using a pump where the half foot of liquid head built up in travelling vertically through blocks would make a noticeable difference. Typically you have your pump below your reservoir anyways, so pumping up through your blocks will almost always be better than pumping up through your reservoir (which could cause air pockets and ruin your pump, depending on your res).


Thanks for the advice. Using two mcp655. I thought having the cpu as the last component to receive liquid on top of having upward traveling liquid may be a problem.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Show me an automotive rad with dual pass to compare with then?


Will Tripple Pass rads do









http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/triple_flow.htm


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> if I set my wc loop to run from the bottom gpu 3 - gpu 2 - gpu 1 then cpu, would this have an adverse affect on flow rates? Is it more efficient to have your loop running down hill rather than up hill? Would this issue apply to vertical standing rads vs horizontal rads? Any help would be much appreciated.


Gravity will only affect the initial priming of your pump. Once you have a everything cycling, it's considered a "closed" loop. Rad positioning only affects rad priming and draining, the length of time to remove the air/fluid from them. I personally wouldn't let it decide on positioning since eventually the air will move and draining can be controlled easily.


----------



## jake93s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> i say go for the external radiator. i was alitle in doubt for a while, but i am glad i did it. lowered my temps noticeable. also, i think it looks pretty rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s918.photobucket.com/user/TURBOFUNGUS/media/DSC_2740_zps437c589b.jpg.html


'

more pictures please


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Here is my updated and renovated rig.
> 
> Remember this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that is now this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I know that the pci cables look tangled and messy, but they are like 2" too short for me to be able to wrap them around.


WOW what a transformation, 'Very impressive'


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Here is my updated and renovated rig.
> 
> Remember this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that is now this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I know that the pci cables look tangled and messy, but they are like 2" too short for me to be able to wrap them around.


Schmo to Pro!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Show me an automotive rad with dual pass to *compare with* then?
> 
> 
> 
> Will Tripple Pass rads do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/triple_flow.htm
Click to expand...

Comparison?









Notice that these are bespoke service for high performance? Also,notice its just a pic with no contact details or links.

And its spelt Triple........


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Comparison?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that these are bespoke service for high performance? Also,notice its just a pic with no contact details or links.
> 
> And its spelt Triple........


Just to be pedant...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Spelled vs. spelt
In American English, spelt primarily refers to the hardy wheat grown mostly in Europe, and the verb spell makes spelled in the past tense and as a past participle. In all other main varieties of English, spelt and spelled both work as the past tense and past participle of spell, at least where spell means to form words letter by letter or (with out) to make clear. Outside the U.S., the two forms are interchangeable in these senses, and both are commonly used.

But when spell carries the sense to temporarily relieve (someone) from work, spelled is the preferred form throughout the English-speaking world. This is a minor point, though, as this sense of spell is rarely used outside the U.S., where it is most common.

Spelled is not a recent Americanism, as many people assume (including some who have commented on this post). Both spelled and spelt are old, and examples of each are easily found in historical Google Books searches covering the 17th and 18th centuries. It is true, however, that spelt was ascendant everywhere through most of the 19th century. This ended when the Americans permanently settled on spelled around 1900.
-Wiki-


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Comparison?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that these are bespoke service for high performance? Also,notice its just a pic with no contact details or links.
> 
> And its spelt Triple........


http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/index.htm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Comparison?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that these are bespoke service for high performance? Also,notice its just a pic with no contact details or links.
> 
> And its spelt Triple........
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be pedant...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Spelled vs. spelt
> In American English, spelt primarily refers to the hardy wheat grown mostly in Europe, and the verb spell makes spelled in the past tense and as a past participle. In all other main varieties of English, spelt and spelled both work as the past tense and past participle of spell, at least where spell means to form words letter by letter or (with out) to make clear. Outside the U.S., the two forms are interchangeable in these senses, and both are commonly used.
> 
> But when spell carries the sense to temporarily relieve (someone) from work, spelled is the preferred form throughout the English-speaking world. This is a minor point, though, as this sense of spell is rarely used outside the U.S., where it is most common.
> 
> Spelled is not a recent Americanism, as many people assume (including some who have commented on this post). Both spelled and spelt are old, and examples of each are easily found in historical Google Books searches covering the 17th and 18th centuries. It is true, however, that spelt was ascendant everywhere through most of the 19th century. This ended when the Americans permanently settled on spelled around 1900.
> -Wiki-
Click to expand...

If i was from the US then that would be fine but im from the UK. Spelt is in the English Dictionary.

World English Dictionary
spell 1 (spɛl) [Click for IPA pronunciation guide]

- vb , spells , spelling , *spelt* , spelled
1. to write or name in correct order the letters that comprise the conventionally accepted form of (a word or part of a word)
2. ( tr ) (of letters) to go to make up the conventionally established form of (a word) when arranged correctly: d-o-g spells dog
3. ( tr ) to indicate or signify: such actions spell disaster for our cause

[C13: from Old French espeller, of Germanic origin; related to Old Norse spialla to talk, Middle High German spellen ]

'spellable 1

- adj

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/spelled

I know my own language thanks...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Comparison?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that these are bespoke service for high performance? Also,notice its just a pic with no contact details or links.
> 
> And its spelt Triple........
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/index.htm
Click to expand...

Thanks but there is still no comparative data as explained in the first post regarding this.
Show me how these perform in comparison with a single pass automotive radiator?


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Here is my updated and renovated rig.
> 
> Remember this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that is now this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I know that the pci cables look tangled and messy, but they are like 2" too short for me to be able to wrap them around.


Wow, you did a GREAT job!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

One of the 2 going into my SR-2,just waiting on a second top...dual loopings FTW!
Bitspower temp probe in the back port.



Its bloody lovely!


----------



## webdevii

Here is my Rig, appropriately named "_"The Cube"_
Specs:
Lian-Li Model 343b Cube Case
ASUS P9X79 Deluxe
Intel 3930k Processor (Running Stable at 4.8 Ghz 117' F
64 Gigabytes DDR3-PC3 1600 Mushkin Memory 9-9-9-9-24
System Drive: Seagate Cheetah 15,000 RPM SAS 300 GB Drive
EVGA nVidia 580 GTX GPU 1.5 GB V-Ram
LSI 9207 8x PCI-e SAS Host Controller
Storage Drive #1 Internal 3 TB Seagate Constellation
Storage Drive #2 Qnap TS-659 Pro Turbo NAS Raid 0, 5 5 x 2TB Hitachi Drives 10 TB (8TB Usable)
Dual Lite-On Blu-Ray Writers
Pro 57U Smart Media Writer
7 Port Active USB 3.0 Hub
Custom Liquid Cooling Loop

Pics Below

This is my first High End custom Rig, I came into a nice inheritance and that gave me the flexibility to do it the right way not the get by way. The Case has been custom painted with high end automotive paint in a Burgandy-Root Beer w/ Gray trim. I happen to be a freelance airbrush and spray gun enthusiast as well. So I decided to add a touch to this build. This is also my first liquid cooled rig as well. I have been in the business for 35 years and really had to dig through all of my past knowledge and do a lot of reading and forum surfing but I pulled it off.

Thank you for considering me into the club

Regards
Dev


----------



## EnticingSausage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> One of the 2 going into my SR-2,just waiting on a second top...dual loopings FTW!
> Bitspower temp probe in the back port.
> 
> 
> 
> Its bloody lovely!


3 D5's? That beauty has the fountain effect right?


----------



## Gubz

Can anyone be so kind and tell me what size tubing I need for my fittings?
I know the ID is 1/2, but I'm not entirely sure what OD I need.




Spoiler: Couple more photos


----------



## mm67

Those look like 1/2" -3/4" fittings


----------



## NomNomNom

Do any of you guys have the problem of noise from your watercooling setup, but not from the pump?
Whenever i raise the rpm of my pump my rig gets considerably louder, but its not actually the pump, its coming from the case. This even happens when the pump is out of the case on the floor.

EDIT: what the hell.. i open the res and the noise amplified to ear splitting








levels!


----------



## TommyMoore

Betfenix Pro 200mm Fan installed, Phobya 200mm Rad being delivered Monday.... Sweeet!


----------



## snapsimo

Recent build. Love the new case and running a new EVGA NEX1500 as well

2 x AX360's, fully modded pumps and Tygon neoprene black tubing. Monsoon red fittings.
A bit of work to be done yet but getting there. What do you think?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Do any of you guys have the problem of noise from your watercooling setup, but not from the pump?
> Whenever i raise the rpm of my pump my rig gets considerably louder, but its not actually the pump, its coming from the case. This even happens when the pump is out of the case on the floor.
> 
> EDIT: what the hell.. i open the res and the noise amplified to ear splitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> levels!


How long has the loop been running? maybe it just need some proper bleeding first
If its coming from the case check on each of the joint/screws, probably the vibration from the loop make it squeeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapsimo*
> 
> Recent build. Love the new case and running a new EVGA NEX1500 as well 2 x AX360's, fully modded pumps and Tygon neoprene black tubing. Monsoon red fittings. A bit of work to be done yet but getting there. What do you think? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD[/QUOTE]
> 
> Looking good [IMG alt="smile.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/smile.gif but need better cable management (my ocd just cant stand it)
> whats that 80mm fan doing there? cooling the vram?


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> How long has the loop been running? maybe it just need some proper bleeding first
> If its coming from the case check on each of the joint/screws, probably the vibration from the loop make it squeeky
> Looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but need better cable management (my ocd just cant stand it)
> whats that 80mm fan doing there? cooling the vram?


Its been running for 3 years lol!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yf3pbCw9ZPY&feature=youtu.be
Heres a video of it


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Its been running for 3 years lol!
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yf3pbCw9ZPY&feature=youtu.be
> Heres a video of it


LOL thats the funniest sound I've even encountered in a loop
serious LOL you can even make a music out of it

it sounds the same as like when you blow an empty bottle or half full bottle
have you even drain it for that 3 years? change anything maybe?


----------



## snapsimo

Looking good







but need better cable management (my ocd just cant stand it)
whats that 80mm fan doing there? cooling the vram?[/quote]

Yep, thought it was a little warm when I went WC. Much cooler now.
Next MB I will WC the lot.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## OmniScience

Ironically enough, the last place I've posted my little project has been this thread:S Anyway enjoy. Still lots to do however. Also I've since upgraded to an AX1200 and have custom sleeving. I've carbonfibred a lot more, and have mounted the SSDs to new spots. I've moving these next few days so no time to take updated photos. The new place will have room for a photo spot. Stay tuned for some more shenanigans.

But yes. the triple parallel with 690s works.

Here's my Switch 810.

I'd love to see someone guess my loop order







,haha.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> LOL thats the funniest sound I've even encountered in a loop
> serious LOL you can even make a music out of it
> 
> it sounds the same as like when you blow an empty bottle or half full bottle
> have you even drain it for that 3 years? change anything maybe?


Nope never drained it never did anything to it in 3 years.
About a quarter of the res as evaporated though the tubes its been so long


----------



## Solonowarion

While I strip down for painting and get ready for acrylic tube


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> LOL thats the funniest sound I've even encountered in a loop
> serious LOL you can even make a music out of it


Agreed. That is so messed up.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmniScience*
> 
> Ironically enough, the last place I've posted my little project has been this thread:S Anyway enjoy. Still lots to do however. Also I've since upgraded to an AX1200 and have custom sleeving. I've carbonfibred a lot more, and have mounted the SSDs to new spots. I've moving these next few days so no time to take updated photos. The new place will have room for a photo spot. Stay tuned for some more shenanigans.
> 
> But yes. the triple parallel with 690s works.
> 
> Here's my Switch 810.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to see someone guess my loop order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,haha.


It looks like you have your GPU's and CPU in parallel


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Nope never drained it never did anything to it in 3 years.
> About a quarter of the res as evaporated though the tubes its been so long


Well than, try to drain the loop first
check each components, I'm just afraid something got clog up between the loop

its been a good 3 years anyway, why not do some cleaning up


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmniScience*
> 
> Ironically enough, the last place I've posted my little project has been this thread:S Anyway enjoy. Still lots to do however. Also I've since upgraded to an AX1200 and have custom sleeving. I've carbonfibred a lot more, and have mounted the SSDs to new spots. I've moving these next few days so no time to take updated photos. The new place will have room for a photo spot. Stay tuned for some more shenanigans.
> 
> But yes. the triple parallel with 690s works.
> 
> Here's my Switch 810.
> 
> I'd love to see someone guess my loop order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,haha.


How are the temps on the CPU? I do parallel as well in my loop however my CPU is just a locked 3.2GHz quad. Going to replacing it w/ a 3930k on Monday and I'm interested how well it does.


----------



## jonnL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmniScience*
> 
> Ironically enough, the last place I've posted my little project has been this thread:S Anyway enjoy. Still lots to do however. Also I've since upgraded to an AX1200 and have custom sleeving. I've carbonfibred a lot more, and have mounted the SSDs to new spots. I've moving these next few days so no time to take updated photos. The new place will have room for a photo spot. Stay tuned for some more shenanigans.
> 
> But yes. the triple parallel with 690s works.
> 
> Here's my Switch 810.
> 
> I'd love to see someone guess my loop order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,haha.


How many pumps are you using? How's the temps?


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Well than, try to drain the loop first
> check each components, I'm just afraid something got clog up between the loop
> 
> its been a good 3 years anyway, why not do some cleaning up


Well its always been this loud i just never open the res before.


----------



## Moheevi_chess

Added some water blocks to my GPUs and a Swiftech bridge connecting them.






Not sure how my Pug made it in.. but he loves the camera.


----------



## The Sandman

deleted


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PwndN00b*
> 
> Schmo to Pro!


Now that saying will be utilized on the Short Range here in AFG when dealing with the FOBITs that never leave the wire


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Agreed. That is so messed up.


Any ideas to fix it?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Any ideas to fix it?


What pump is it? Is the reservoir directly attached to the pump? Is it decoupled?


----------



## golfergolfer

Hey everyone I am going to be changing up my loop in about a week or two and I was curious what is the BEST way to flush out a system? and I mean everything including pumps and rads. Also should new blocks be washed out?


----------



## phantasml

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hey everyone I am going to be changing up my loop in about a week or two and I was curious what is the BEST way to flush out a system? and I mean everything including pumps and rads. Also should new blocks be washed out?


Not sure if it's the best way but I usually remove the lowest point tube from the fittings and put a bucket under it.Then I blow air to the other end of the tube. It's not so bad for me since I use QDC so it won't leak. Very important though: don't turn on the pump to flush out the coolant. You might risk damaging your pump that way.

After you make sure all the coolants are cleared, then carefully remove each fitting from the blocks, starting from the lowest point. Make sure to position your bucket below it in case there is still some fluid inside.

Finally when all have been disassembled, rinse them with warm distilled water for few hours to make sure no residue is left.

Hope it helps







. Been doing it for my loop and never encountered any problems so far.


----------



## Jetskyer

Hey everyone,
Quite a while back I posted here some pictures of my coming powermac G5 build.
I changed the tubing to copper and would love to hear everyone's opinion about it.

Before:


After:

Changed the res over to the Lund Alu Plex, looks terrible in the render though. I am sure it will look waaaaaay better in reality

Many thanks to B-Neg for giving me the dimensions of the push-in fittings!


----------



## Elder

The new version looks great.
Lund POM / PLEX is matte so it will fit perfectly.
Where is the pump located, I do not see it (below the reservoir?)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Board done for Arctic Water.



Board in its new home!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board done for Arctic Water.
> 
> Board in its new home!


Oh damn! That is gorgeous! Amazing work, as always, BNeg


----------



## Hogwasher

here is how it stands now.

almost done but my video cards keep overheating. tried reseating the universal block with no luck.(no overclock)

I've ordered full cover blocks so we'll see if that helps


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> 
> 
> here is how it stands now.
> 
> almost done but my video cards keep overheating. tried reseating the universal block with no luck.(no overclock)
> 
> I've ordered full cover blocks so we'll see if that helps


Have you got a build log mate im getting the same case just wanted a few ideas


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Have you got a build log mate im getting the same case just wanted a few ideas


Actually no, I've kept pictures as it's evolved so I could easily create one. But not today just got done working a 12 hour night shift









Maybe I'll put one together monday (got another 12 hours tonight)


----------



## kzim9

Spot the wrong.....



More pictures in my build log......

http://www.overclock.net/t/1383973/teardown-and-re-build-log-black-and-blue-3930k


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> 
> 
> here is how it stands now.
> 
> almost done but my video cards keep overheating. tried reseating the universal block with no luck.(no overclock)
> 
> I've ordered full cover blocks so we'll see if that helps


What GPU's and what universal blocks?

Some universal blocks require a thin (.5mm) copper shims between the GPU and the block for proper contact.

EK Supreme HF blocks on 7970's for example:

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109805138

Darlene


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What GPU's and what universal blocks?
> 
> Some universal blocks require a thin (.5mm) copper shims between the GPU and the block for proper contact.
> 
> EK Supreme HF blocks on 7970's for example:
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109805138
> 
> Darlene


video card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131478

water block in white

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcungpuwa1.html


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> Spot the wrong.....
> 
> 
> 
> More pictures in my build log......
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1383973/teardown-and-re-build-log-black-and-blue-3930k


What block is this card for? That is one hell of a mistake Koolance did. I am assuming you had the blocks in parallel otherwise I can't see how your loop would work at all.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board done for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Board in its new home!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job..love the contrast. I always like to see a fellow painted sabertooth.








What gpu(s) you planning on and what blocks for them?


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> Quite a while back I posted here some pictures of my coming powermac G5 build.
> I changed the tubing to copper and would love to hear everyone's opinion about it.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the res over to the Lund Alu Plex, looks terrible in the render though. I am sure it will look waaaaaay better in reality
> 
> Many thanks to B-Neg for giving me the dimensions of the push-in fittings!


Definitely prefer the hard lines and the new res! Great renders - can't wait to see it in production!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board done for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Board in its new home!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You've got skills bro - no doubt - as well as one sharp eye for the aesthetics! Good work!


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> video card
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131478
> 
> water block in white
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcungpuwa1.html


Normal MCW82 will not work with that card, you need MCW82-7900 which has a base like this :


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board done for Arctic Water.
> 
> Board in its new home!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh damn! That is gorgeous! Amazing work, as always, BNeg
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board done for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Board in its new home!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job..love the contrast. I always like to see a fellow painted sabertooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What gpu(s) you planning on and what blocks for them?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> Quite a while back I posted here some pictures of my coming powermac G5 build.
> I changed the tubing to copper and would love to hear everyone's opinion about it.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the res over to the Lund Alu Plex, looks terrible in the render though. I am sure it will look waaaaaay better in reality
> 
> Many thanks to B-Neg for giving me the dimensions of the push-in fittings!
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely prefer the hard lines and the new res! Great renders - can't wait to see it in production!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board done for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Board in its new home!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You've got skills bro - no doubt - as well as one sharp eye for the aesthetics! Good work!
Click to expand...

Thanks guys!

2 7970's with the old skool EK blocks in copper are going in.

Already done backplates for them.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What pump is it? Is the reservoir directly attached to the pump? Is it decoupled?


MCP355 Yes its a XSPC restop and it is decoupled


----------



## kzim9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What block is this card for? That is one hell of a mistake Koolance did. I am assuming you had the blocks in parallel otherwise I can't see how your loop would work at all.


Ya I had them in parallel......

Im pretty pissed....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Hey Daniel, is this a new client build or what? Looks amazing as always!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> The new version looks great.
> Lund POM / PLEX is matte so it will fit perfectly.
> Where is the pump located, I do not see it (below the reservoir?)


I was actually thinking of the Lund ALU version, since the whole case is anodized aluminium as well, though black (with some lightning internally maybe) will look badass as well. I think you're right that it will look better than the alu version.
But yes, the pump lies beneath the res. It has just a wee bit of wiggleroom there right next to the UT60 360 rad. It'll be the swiftech MCP35x, with a 'custom' heatsink mounted to the bottom. (with a 60mm fan blowing across it at ease)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Definitely prefer the hard lines and the new res! Great renders - can't wait to see it in production!


That's you and me both, I think the parts that have to be lasercut are ready now, so when I'm back at school I will be asking my teacher if he can put them on the waiting list. Hope they'll be able to cut them before the summer holiday but we'll see.

I like the hard lines better as well and to be honest that plexi res that I had planned before looked cheap as hell. Someone however did mention that he liked the soft tubing better in my 'build log', but he didn't really say why.


----------



## morencyam

Nice choice on the Lund res. I have the PomPlex version. I really like the uniqueness of it. Very versatile as well since is has three ports on the bottom and one on the top, although the top is G3/8


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Hey Daniel, is this a new client build or what? Looks amazing as always!


Yeah,its a client build.

He is stoked with the pics so its job done for me....he hasnt seen the front panel yet either


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Nice choice on the Lund res. I have the PomPlex version. I really like the uniqueness of it. Very versatile as well since is has three ports on the bottom and one on the top, although the top is G3/8


Actually will be throwing the res upside-down, so with the G3/8 port going straight into the MCP35x. Probably will use a G3/8-G1/4 + rotary extension fitting to couple those. In the top I will be using the port with the tube sticking down into the res as inlet.
One port for the koolance fill level sensor (since my case has no window and I'd hate it to accidentally let my pump run dry) and one port to just easily fill the *****. Or maybe use that one for an LED but I was more thinking about drilling a 5mm hole in the bottom for that.
That would probably look better since then it contacts the water directly. Having an RGB led there controlled by the aquaero would be pretty nice.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Actually will be throwing the res upside-down, so with the G3/8 port going straight into the MCP35x. Probably will use a G3/8-G1/4 + rotary extension fitting to couple those. In the top I will be using the port with the tube sticking down into the res as inlet.
> One port for the koolance fill level sensor (since my case has no window and I'd hate it to accidentally let my pump run dry) and one port to just easily fill the *****. Or maybe use that one for an LED but I was more thinking about drilling a 5mm hole in the bottom for that.
> That would probably look better since then it contacts the water directly. Having an RGB led there controlled by the aquaero would be pretty nice.


The one thing I noticed with LEDs in this res though. Using an LED plug and distilled water, the light really doesn't show up too well. It wasn't until I added Mayhem's orange dye that the light showed up better. There is a light module that is a plug with about a 2" probe that goes into the water and lights up real well. I haven't been able to find it in stock anywhere though.
Lighting Module
EDIT: I take that back. Aquatuning has them in stock


----------



## Jetskyer

I believe aquatuning has them, but I'm afraid since I flip the res upside down that tube will be out of the water for half it's length probably which isn't the greatest for lightening purposes.

I might get a 5mm stick of solid acrylic and glue that on top of the led so it will transfer the light. Then by roughening the surface I probably get the same effect. But I'm not one for big fancy lightshows and I think I would like it if just the surface of the water will light up and a slight general glow, but we'll see, all that can more or less be changed later on. You gotta stay busy right?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> I believe aquatuning has them, but I'm afraid since I flip the res upside down that tube will be out of the water for half it's length probably which isn't the greatest for lightening purposes.
> 
> I might get a 5mm stick of solid acrylic and glue that on top of the led so it will transfer the light. Then by roughening the surface I probably get the same effect. But I'm not one for big fancy lightshows and I think I would like it if just the surface of the water will light up and a slight general glow, but we'll see, all that can more or less be changed later on. *You gotta stay busy right?*


Idle hands are the devil's workshop lol


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> video card
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131478
> 
> water block in white
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcungpuwa1.html


This is your problem/solution. The universal blocks you have now probably aren't even touching the ihs of your GPUs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Normal MCW82 will not work with that card, you need MCW82-7900 which has a base like this :


However as ITDiva said, a shim is a common solution which can be found here as well as some other places.
http://triptcc.com/product/copper-shim/


----------



## Qu1ckset

So my GTX690 and second rad is sold, and just purchased a titan, this will be my temporary setup till i get my new case and w/c equipment









*Before*


*After*


----------



## whyscotty

Not up to the high standard of the rigs posted but here's mine









Before

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/dsc01768z.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

After

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/imgp1434c.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## bomberjun

now that's an awesome full xspc rig!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> *Not up to the high standard of the rigs posted but here's mine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/dsc01768z.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/imgp1434c.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Not up to the high standards?








Really? 3930K with 3 Titans, all water cooled in a very sexy loop IMO....and you say not up to the "high standards" of this thread?? LOL
I think you're doing just fine compared to some of the others around here....the *only* thing that throws it off for me, using the Noc fans on the bottom rad. But like I said, sexy overall.


----------



## whyscotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> now that's an awesome full xspc rig!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Not up to the high standards?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really? 3930K with 3 Titans, all water cooled in a very sexy loop IMO....and you say not up to the "high standards" of this thread?? LOL
> I think you're doing just fine compared to some of the others around here....the *only* thing that throws it off for me, using the Noc fans on the bottom rad. But like I said, sexy overall.


Thanks for the kind words

Can't seem to get rid of the Noc's - awesome fans .

Just a pity they are not made in different colours


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words
> 
> Can't seem to get rid of the Noc's - awesome fans .
> 
> Just a pity they are not made in different colours


I'll trade you prettier, crappier ones?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words
> 
> Can't seem to get rid of the Noc's - awesome fans .
> 
> Just a pity they are not made in different colours


Paint them?


----------



## Sethris225

Another question here,
If I'm using 8 90 degree fittings in a GPU/CPU loop (1 360mm rad), what kind of pump should I use? Will the fittings drastically increase pressure and need a more powerful pump? By the way, these will be pretty short runs- probably 190mm at most.
Feel free to recommend me something.


----------



## PedroC1999

A D5 should be enough, those things are very powerful.


----------



## Seredin

I would be surprised if a 90 degree fitting caused noticeable pressure increase for your pump. They'll be negligible compared to the blocks.

I could be wrong


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> A D5 should be enough, those things are very powerful.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I would be surprised if a 90 degree fitting caused noticeable pressure increase for your pump. They'll be negligible compared to the blocks.
> 
> I could be wrong


Alright, cool and thanks.
The one problem with all the D5s is that they're tall- let's just say this is going to be quite a thin build.
Would I be okay with one DDC (it's fine if the answer is no, lol)?


----------



## PedroC1999

Not sure, maybe 2 just incase


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Not sure, maybe 2 just incase


I could probably fit two MCP350s... Would be excessive monies though.

Yep, I could! But still more expensive than like, one D5 or one DDC. :L


----------



## Jetskyer

I bet a single DCC (if not then at least the mcp35x) will be good enough as well. It has better head pressure than the D5 which counts if you have more restriction.
They do run hot when the flowrate is high, but that can be dealt with.


----------



## Seredin

OCN: Where we watercool our water pumps


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> OCN: Where we watercool our water pumps


Haha. Probably don't even have the room to put a heatsink on it.
Actually, an MCP35x is too tall anyway. xD
two MCP350s + a top would be so expensive :l
Might have to do it anyway because
-insert this is ocn meme here-


----------



## Jetskyer

Haha, easy. All you have to do is throw a piece of copper into a CNC milling machine and build a full copper housing for a DCC.
I believe the only reason the D5 runs so cool (and dumps it's heat into the loop) is because of the metal housing.

Maybe if I got some time to spare one day (and don't mind accidentally killing the (soon to be mine) mcp35x) I'll give it a try


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Haha. Probably don't even have the room to put a heatsink on it.
> Actually, an MCP35x is too tall anyway. xD
> two MCP350s + a top would be so expensive :l
> Might have to do it anyway because
> -insert this is ocn meme here-


One MCP350 has an head pressure of 3.3 meter, against 3 meter for a mcp655b and 4 meters for the mcp655
I recon that in your still fairly modest loop the MCP350 will do just as well as a D5 temperature-wise. A 90 degree fitting isn't that bad really.


----------



## PedroC1999

what is the head pressure for a D5?


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> One MCP350 has an head pressure of 3.3 meter, against 3 meter for a mcp655b and 4 meters for the mcp655
> I recon that in your still fairly modest loop the MCP350 will do just as well as a D5 temperature-wise. A 90 degree fitting isn't that bad really.


Alright. This is going to be a very small ITX system, so I really feel as if an extremely powerful pump won't be necessary.
Will probably go with one MCP350.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> what is the head pressure for a D5?


The MCP655 and 655-b are D5 variants. About 4m and 3.1m respectively, Jetskyer got it right.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Haha. Probably don't even have the room to put a heatsink on it.
> Actually, an MCP35x is too tall anyway. xD
> two MCP350s + a top would be so expensive :l
> Might have to do it anyway because
> -insert this is ocn meme here-
> 
> 
> 
> One MCP350 has an head pressure of 3.3 meter, against 3 meter for a mcp655b and 4 meters for the mcp655
> I recon that in your still fairly modest loop the MCP350 will do just as well as a D5 temperature-wise. A 90 degree fitting isn't that bad really.
Click to expand...

Yup,all of this.

Pressure is a vastly overrated thing tho.....

If you want the best compromise then a D5 strong at 12v is great....when you want to gain more performance then add a 24 v controller.


----------



## illuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Not up to the high standard of the rigs posted but here's mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snip


Thought I recognised that build mate, excellent work


----------



## sproggit

Hey everyone...

I wonder if anybody would be willing to offer thoughts/suggestions/advice with respect to a reservoir/pump question on a build that I have asked a friend to help me with please?

Basic design comprises a Xigmatek Elysium case which is in the process of being fitted with a Gigabyte X79S-UP5-Wifi Board, a Core i7-3820 Quad-Core, water-cooled GTX-680 GPU and assorted components. The basic design will consist of a pair of discrete water cooling loops. The GPU is serviced by an XSPC Triple mounted horizontally beneath the uppermost surface of the case. The CPU is cooled by an XSPC double which is mounted in the area provided by the lower 7 of the 12 front-facing 5.25 Drive bays, using the drive bay locating bolt holes and some right-angled brackets - which works really well.

There's a pic of the build as it stands here:-

http://www.yteneweb.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/W1920XigmatekElysium002.jpg

My question relates to the pumps and reservoirs. Our current plan is to go with a pair of XSPC D5 vario pumps and the integrated XSPC acrylic reservoirs. These will sit side-by-side between the rear of the 2-fan radiator and the leading edge of the Zalman PSU. I notice in some of the other builds and designs here on the forum that there are quite a range of vertical cylinder reservoirs, some above pumps, some alongside. I have no experience of this particular configuration.

My primary interest is a cool and quiet machine. I'm not going to have clear side panels and although we're putting in a lot of effort to ensure that the final build is a neat and tidy as we can make it, primary focus is on cool and quiet (silent or as near-as) operation.

I would be very grateful if anyone would care to share their experiences of reservoir pump combinations please?

Oh, shameless plug... This little monster is being assembled for me by Simon over at Rapid PCs in Christchurch, Dorset, on the south coast of the UK. Brilliant bunch [they put up with me, which is a bonus] and they're always keen and ready to help. Check 'em out at

http://www.rapidpcs.co.uk/

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sproggit*
> 
> Hey everyone...
> 
> I wonder if anybody would be willing to offer thoughts/suggestions/advice with respect to a reservoir/pump question on a build that I have asked a friend to help me with please?
> 
> Basic design comprises a Xigmatek Elysium case which is in the process of being fitted with a Gigabyte X79S-UP5-Wifi Board, a Core i7-3820 Quad-Core, water-cooled GTX-680 GPU and assorted components. The basic design will consist of a pair of discrete water cooling loops. The GPU is serviced by an XSPC Triple mounted horizontally beneath the uppermost surface of the case. The CPU is cooled by an XSPC double which is mounted in the area provided by the lower 7 of the 12 front-facing 5.25 Drive bays, using the drive bay locating bolt holes and some right-angled brackets - which works really well.
> 
> There's a pic of the build as it stands here:-
> 
> http://www.yteneweb.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/W1920XigmatekElysium002.jpg
> 
> My question relates to the pumps and reservoirs. Our current plan is to go with a pair of XSPC D5 vario pumps and the integrated XSPC acrylic reservoirs. These will sit side-by-side between the rear of the 2-fan radiator and the leading edge of the Zalman PSU. I notice in some of the other builds and designs here on the forum that there are quite a range of vertical cylinder reservoirs, some above pumps, some alongside. I have no experience of this particular configuration.
> 
> My primary interest is a cool and quiet machine. I'm not going to have clear side panels and although we're putting in a lot of effort to ensure that the final build is a neat and tidy as we can make it, primary focus is on cool and quiet (silent or as near-as) operation.
> 
> I would be very grateful if anyone would care to share their experiences of reservoir pump combinations please?
> 
> Oh, shameless plug... This little monster is being assembled for me by Simon over at Rapid PCs in Christchurch, Dorset, on the south coast of the UK. Brilliant bunch [they put up with me, which is a bonus] and they're always keen and ready to help. Check 'em out at
> 
> http://www.rapidpcs.co.uk/
> 
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


Have you thought about using one of these with a pair of the PWM D5's:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12480/ex-res-254/Koolance_RP-452X2_Dual_525_Reservoir_Rev_20_Serial_or_Parallel_for_1_or_2_Pumps_RP-450_Laing_D5_MCP655-B_MCP655.html?tl=g30c97s168

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=g30c107s1802

You could run both loops, one from each pump and its side of the res. The PWM D5's would be quiet as they could be speed controlled from the mobo.

Darlene


----------



## golfergolfer

I am getting ready to start my new build in a Compact Splash case and if anyone was interested in following here are a few sample pics and the link









[Build Log] C O M P A C T - S P L A S H - 0 0 8 ☜(ﾟヮﾟ☜)


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

I'm considering upgrading my tower and adding a closed loop system but have never done so before and was looking for some advice and pointers. My rig is in my sig and here's what I'm looking at adding hardware wise to my build.

Upgrades:
Sapphire Radeon HD 7870XT
Corsair Force Series GS 180 GB SSD
Xigmatech XAF 120 mm fans (6 ea. for the 360 reservoir I am planning on)
Cooler Master R4 Series 120mm fans (4 ea. for rest of the case fan slots)

Here's what I've been considering... I'm not worried about including the cooling on the 7870 since there's no fullcover blocks for them on the market that I've found, so I'm thinking of setting up the loop as such res/pump -->CPU -->RAM -->rad --> res/pump.

Here's the part's list I'm looking at so far:

Bitspower Universal Ram Cooler set (2 DIMMs)
Bitspower Summit EF CPU Block
Bitspower Z-Multi 250 POM reservoir
Magicool Extreme slim profile 360mm radiator
Performance PCs Über 655 Fully Modded (D5) (blue)

I'm still unsure of whether I should go with standard barbs or compression fittings, or which tubing I want, but I'm looking at what I would spend here, and it kind of deters me from it since I'd been considering another build at the end of the year... linked here... http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5156068

Thoughts and suggestions?


----------



## twowheelz

my quite boring build but soon i shal upgrade to a LD PC-v8 case the. the real build will begin


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twowheelz*
> 
> my quite boring build but soon i shal upgrade to a LD PC-v8 case the. the real build will begin


Why you put all the RAM on the same side?


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Alright, cool and thanks.
> The one problem with all the D5s is that they're tall- let's just say this is going to be quite a thin build.
> Would I be okay with one DDC (it's fine if the answer is no, lol)?


The mcp35x will be good enough


----------



## audioholic




----------



## MrGrievous

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*





ROFL, I was thinking the same thing!! How does that single rad perform with the cpu?


----------



## Qu1ckset

So now that ive been using my computer since removing a 240 rad and videocard from it , the flow is much faster according to the water in the rez and now the bubbles going threw my loop are so noticeable has far as sounds goes, kinda annoying..


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So now that ive been using my computer since removing a 240 rad and videocard from it , the flow is much faster according to the water in the rez and now the bubbles going threw my loop are so noticeable has far as sounds goes, kinda annoying..


What reservoir? There are anti cyclone inserts for many reservoirs out there. It generally would help w/ that.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am going to run 2 655 pumps on my build, wondering if I should do them in parallel or run them one at the front of the loop and one at the back end after my gpus


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What reservoir? There are anti cyclone inserts for many reservoirs out there. It generally would help w/ that.


EK DCP4.0


----------



## twowheelz

Thats a good question? What benefits splitting them up? Aside better airflow


----------



## lowfat

You never want your pumps in parallel. Besides redundancy it doesn't give benefit the loop at all. In series is the way to go.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You never want your pumps in parallel. Besides redundancy it doesn't give benefit the loop at all. In series is the way to go.


not even redundancy in parallel lowfat, there is almost no reason to go parallel since in series they are much more redundant, (a dead pump only takes 2% off the flow rate)

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/26/pump-setup-series-vs-parallel/


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering upgrading my tower and adding a closed loop system but have never done so before and was looking for some advice and pointers. My rig is in my sig and here's what I'm looking at adding hardware wise to my build.
> 
> Upgrades:
> Sapphire Radeon HD 7870XT
> Corsair Force Series GS 180 GB SSD
> Xigmatech XAF 120 mm fans (6 ea. for the 360 reservoir I am planning on)
> Cooler Master R4 Series 120mm fans (4 ea. for rest of the case fan slots)
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've been considering... I'm not worried about including the cooling on the 7870 since there's no fullcover blocks for them on the market that I've found, so I'm thinking of setting up the loop as such res/pump -->CPU -->RAM -->rad --> res/pump.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the part's list I'm looking at so far:
> 
> Bitspower Universal Ram Cooler set (2 DIMMs)
> Bitspower Summit EF CPU Block
> Bitspower Z-Multi 250 POM reservoir
> Magicool Extreme slim profile 360mm radiator
> Performance PCs Über 655 Fully Modded (D5) (blue)
> 
> I'm still unsure of whether I should go with standard barbs or compression fittings, or which tubing I want, but I'm looking at what I would spend here, and it kind of deters me from it since I'd been considering another build at the end of the year... linked here... http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5156068
> 
> Thoughts and suggestions?


Full water block for 7870. Not ... pretty though.

http://www.liquid-extasy.de/gpu-kuehler/ati/narrow-line-ati-hd-7870-sapphire-boost-detail?showall=1#weitere-bilder


----------



## kcuestag

http://www.aquatuning.es/product_info.php/language/en/info/p13076_Watercool-HEATKILLER--GPU-Backplate-79X0.html

Can anyone confirm those are the backplates I'd need for my 7970 waterblocks? They're *Heatkiller GPU-X³ 79X0 NiBl*

My 2nd GPU, which has only been used for like 24h in total, all during this weekend, has died, which is a huge dissapointment as it was brand new... Time to RMA it... So I wanted to get some backplates for both cards as I don't like the back of the PCB's being uncovered.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.es/product_info.php/language/en/info/p13076_Watercool-HEATKILLER--GPU-Backplate-79X0.html
> 
> Can anyone confirm those are the backplates I'd need for my 7970 waterblocks? They're *Heatkiller GPU-X³ 79X0 NiBl*
> 
> My 2nd GPU, which has only been used for like 24h in total, all during this weekend, has died, which is a huge dissapointment as it was brand new... Time to RMA it... So I wanted to get some backplates for both cards as I don't like the back of the PCB's being uncovered.


Yup,those will fit.
Shame about the GPU tho....


----------



## xxhaloownerxx

Just ordered my heatkiller 79X0, should have some nice pics this week :v


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,those will fit.
> Shame about the GPU tho....


I didn't even get to try those waterblocks for over a day, they look amazing, but it looks like April is not a good month for me, first the motherboard dies, now one of the GPU's.

Oh well, thanks for confirming, I'll buy 2 of those backplates soon.


----------



## mavisky

My current setup. Down the road I'd like to replace the pump and go to a water block for the CPU and ditch the H80 all together. Had I known I was going to end up going water cooled I may not have gone with the HAF XB as it's not the easiest or best case to do water cooling in.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_20130417_204647_466_zps818ff9c9.jpg.html


----------



## khemist

Just had my Aquacomputer block delivered.







Will be fitting it shortly!.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Just had my Aquacomputer block delivered.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be fitting it shortly!.


Nice! Are you going to get the back-plate too?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! Are you going to get the back-plate too?


He better be.


----------



## khemist

Yeah, the active backplate, just need to wait for it to be released.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> My current setup. Down the road I'd like to replace the pump and go to a water block for the CPU and ditch the H80 all together. Had I known I was going to end up going water cooled I may not have gone with the HAF XB as it's not the easiest or best case to do water cooling in.


How did you remove the hoses on your H80? I'd like to do the same with mine at some point. Also, anyone know if the pump is powerful enough to handle a 360 rad instead of the 120, as well as an extra block? Not likely, but thought I'd ask since I won't be concerned with temps at all, as long as they aren't way out or something. The plan is to make a super cheap loop for a case mod I am doing with some old hardware...I'd just skip it and use the H80 before spending on a full loop. The plan would be something similar to this -

H80 pump/block + Swiftech MCR360-QP-RES + Swiftech MCW82

(Intel e5700 s775 + 320 rad/reservoir + Universal, GTX 460)

It's a strange plan that won't give the best performance, I know, but this would only cost me about $100 or so to get going, which is about the limit on what I am willing to spend on this. Oh, and obviously I already have the spare H80 that's collecting dust.


----------



## grazz1984

Hi does anyone know were i can get a waterblock for VTX ATI Radeon HD 7770 please?


----------



## mavisky

The pump is weak as all hell. I can't believe if handles the 240 rad as it's a slow trickle from my H80. The H100 and H80 use the same pump l

H100i flow rate
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZJoqj-N3Js

H100 flow rate
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXZ3rhffQ_k

To get the hoses off all you have to du is slice them at the fittings and you're good to go. They're just barb fittings holding the hose on and the plastic barb is a lot tougher than the tubing is, but still don't go crazy with the pressure. With the options available now I'd go with a Swiftech H220.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Hi does anyone know were i can get a waterblock for VTX ATI Radeon HD 7770 please?


They do not have full coverage blocks for the 7770. You'll need to use a universal one like THIS


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I'm considering upgrading my tower and adding a closed loop system but have never done so before and was looking for some advice and pointers. My rig is in my sig and here's what I'm looking at adding hardware wise to my build.
> 
> Upgrades:
> Sapphire Radeon HD 7870XT
> Corsair Force Series GS 180 GB SSD
> Xigmatech XAF 120 mm fans (6 ea. for the 360 reservoir I am planning on)
> Cooler Master R4 Series 120mm fans (4 ea. for rest of the case fan slots)
> 
> Here's what I've been considering... I'm not worried about including the cooling on the 7870 since there's no fullcover blocks for them on the market that I've found, so I'm thinking of setting up the loop as such res/pump -->CPU -->RAM -->rad --> res/pump.
> 
> Here's the part's list I'm looking at so far:
> 
> Bitspower Universal Ram Cooler set (2 DIMMs)
> Bitspower Summit EF CPU Block
> Bitspower Z-Multi 250 POM reservoir
> Magicool Extreme slim profile 360mm radiator
> Performance PCs Über 655 Fully Modded (D5) (blue)
> 
> I'm still unsure of whether I should go with standard barbs or compression fittings, or which tubing I want, but I'm looking at what I would spend here, and it kind of deters me from it since I'd been considering another build at the end of the year... linked here... http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5156068
> 
> Thoughts and suggestions?


I have the PPC 655 kit, and FYI, that thing is HUGE, and you need a place for the fan controller to be accessible from the outside (it has a rheostat).
I drilled holes in a brand new nearly-$400 case to get that thing mounted, so if you go with that kit, either commit fully, or don't bother!

Thanks - T


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> The pump is weak as all hell. I can't believe if handles the 240 rad as it's a slow trickle from my H80. The H100 and H80 use the same pump l
> 
> H100i flow rate
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZJoqj-N3Js
> 
> H100 flow rate
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXZ3rhffQ_k
> 
> To get the hoses off all you have to du is slice them at the fittings and you're good to go. They're just barb fittings holding the hose on and the plastic barb is a lot tougher than the tubing is, but still don't go crazy with the pressure. With the options available now I'd go with a Swiftech H220.


Thanks for the info, guess I'll just swap out the hoses and leave it at that. Maybe keep my eye out for another used H80 to use with the GTX 460. I'm really trying not to spend much on this, I'm only in $40 so far for the case. It's just a spare rig I'm modding out of boredom, so yeah.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Just finished mine









Thin ITX , G2020 , using a Alphacool DC-LT 12v Ceramic Pump and EK cpu block , alphacool universal block on chipset and 120mm Rad .

Temps are 24 C idle , 43 C Loaded to 100%


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys, could anyone link me to a male to male fitting I can use in between my GPU's with this much space in between them?

Thanks a lot guys!


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, could anyone link me to a male to male fitting I can use in between my GPU's with this much space in between them?
> 
> Thanks a lot guys!


I realize this isnt what you asked but have you considered crystal link and bp plug fittings?

Or even just your regular fittings and tubing


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I realize this isnt what you asked but have you considered crystal link and bp plug fittings?
> 
> Or even just your regular fittings and tubing


What do you mean by that? I'm a newbie so I don't know what that means. I'm getting an awesome deal on monsoon fittings so I'm going to use those along with a couple 45 degree fittings and a 90 degree on top of the resevoir.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, could anyone link me to a male to male fitting I can use in between my GPU's with this much space in between them?
> 
> Thanks a lot guys!


Bitspower d plugs.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bishg14sidse.html


----------



## khemist

Backplate will finish it off nicely.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, could anyone link me to a male to male fitting I can use in between my GPU's with this much space in between them?
> 
> Thanks a lot guys!


What Bneg said works well

But so do these, I've used them before liked them a lot.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13096/koo-286/Koolance_Dual_VID_Connector_-_Adjustable_2-3_Slot_Spacing_-_Black_CNT-VDA34-BK.html?tl=g30c101s873

I linked the 2-3 slot spacing just as an example, but there is a shorter version, or even a longer version if needed.


----------



## Dzuks

Started my first build log. It's crappy, but it's a start. See signature below if interested.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What do you mean by that? I'm a newbie so I don't know what that means. I'm getting an awesome deal on monsoon fittings so I'm going to use those along with a couple 45 degree fittings and a 90 degree on top of the resevoir.


Is the gap too small to have the monsoons and a little piece of tubing between the gpus?

Im on my gimped phone so my resources are limeted but look at ppcs for bitspower sli fittings and crystal link tubing. Imo those look the nicest in betwwen gpus


----------



## PCModderMike

Crystal link would look good. Monsoons with a tiny piece of tubing in between though would not look so great and would be a last resort if I were running the loop.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## justanoldman

First water cooling ever, and for someone past middle age it was an interesting experience. Not too concerned with how it looks, just wanted to do something simple with good performance and as quiet as possible. Feel free to tell me what I did wrong so I can take that into account for a rig in the future.



Delidded 3770k, 5.0 @ 1.41v, MVF, 16 gb TridentX 2400, Switch 810
Swiftech: H220, 220 rad bottom, 320 rad top, 140 rad back

5 NF-F12 fans on top/bottom rads, one NF-A14 on 140 rad, two more NF-A14 case fans

Heatkiller hole edition full cover copper block with backplate for the GTX 690

2 Bitspower 45 degree compression fittings, the rest are Swiftech Lok-seal compression, using Swiftech black Truflex 3/8-5/8 tubing

With the rad fans at 60% (the lowest bios settings I have), case fans on the low noise adapter, and the H220 pump at 30% this setup is very quiet. With those quiet settings my Prime95 max core temps with an 8k-8k torture test with 90% ram usage for 15 minutes with the chip at 5.0, 1.41v are:
68, 71, 70, 66 in a 22.7c room

Running a benchmark Valley 1.0 run with a max gpu overclock +155, +740 my two cores are about 40c max.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backplate will finish it off nicely.


can i take your cpu block top?







looks really good


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> First water cooling ever, and for someone past middle age it was an interesting experience. Not too concerned with how it looks, just wanted to do something simple with good performance and as quiet as possible. Feel free to tell me what I did wrong so I can take that into account for a rig in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Delidded 3770k, 5.0 @ 1.41v, MVF, 16 gb TridentX 2400, Switch 810
> Swiftech: H220, 220 rad bottom, 320 rad top, 140 rad back
> 
> 5 NF-F12 fans on top/bottom rads, one NF-A14 on 140 rad, two more NF-A14 case fans
> 
> Heatkiller hole edition full cover copper block with backplate for the GTX 690
> 
> 2 Bitspower 45 degree compression fittings, the rest are Swiftech Lok-seal compression, using Swiftech black Truflex 3/8-5/8 tubing
> 
> With the rad fans at 60% (the lowest bios settings I have), case fans on the low noise adapter, and the H220 pump at 30% this setup is very quiet. With those quiet settings my Prime95 max core temps with an 8k-8k torture test with 90% ram usage for 15 minutes with the chip at 5.0, 1.41v are:
> 68, 71, 70, 66 in a 22.7c room
> 
> Running a benchmark Valley 1.0 run with a max gpu overclock +155, +740 my two cores are about 40c max.


Well done old chap, the combo of the black with the Noc fans works very well here.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> can i take your cpu block top?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks really good


You wouldn't want it, it has micro cracks in it from overtightening







- i've got a replacement top here for it but it's Green and not clear.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> First water cooling ever, and for someone past middle age it was an interesting experience. Not too concerned with how it looks, just wanted to do something simple with good performance and as quiet as possible. Feel free to tell me what I did wrong so I can take that into account for a rig in the future.
> 
> 
> .


what a temp!
love the glossy tubing and honestly you are using the best fan in the market IMO !


----------



## khemist

Looking forward to trying this out.



Nice to see it in different colours.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> can i take your cpu block top?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks really good


http://www.overclock.net/t/1354251/watercooling-gear-and-accessories-ek-en-supreme-hf-black-megahalem-etc


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backplate will finish it off nicely.


Yes, I like it. Although, I think nickle plated one would look better with the coolant you're using. Still a sweet looking block.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> First water cooling ever, and for someone past middle age it was an interesting experience.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Not too concerned with how it looks, just wanted to do something simple with good performance and as quiet as possible. Feel free to tell me what I did wrong so I can take that into account for a rig in the future.
> 
> Delidded 3770k, 5.0 @ 1.41v, MVF, 16 gb TridentX 2400, Switch 810
> Swiftech: H220, 220 rad bottom, 320 rad top, 140 rad back
> 5 NF-F12 fans on top/bottom rads, one NF-A14 on 140 rad, two more NF-A14 case fans
> Heatkiller hole edition full cover copper block with backplate for the GTX 690
> 2 Bitspower 45 degree compression fittings, the rest are Swiftech Lok-seal compression, using Swiftech black Truflex 3/8-5/8 tubing
> With the rad fans at 60% (the lowest bios settings I have), case fans on the low noise adapter, and the H220 pump at 30% this setup is very quiet. With those quiet settings my Prime95 max core temps with an 8k-8k torture test with 90% ram usage for 15 minutes with the chip at 5.0, 1.41v are:
> 68, 71, 70, 66 in a 22.7c room
> Running a benchmark Valley 1.0 run with a max gpu overclock +155, +740 my two cores are about 40c max.


For you're first go at water cooling, you did a good job. I especially like the noctua fans, I have a sweet spot for them.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Yes, I like it. Although, I think nickle plated one would look better with the coolant you're using. Still a sweet looking block.


Maybe, i just didn't want to mix the two, i will probably give all nickel a go next time.


----------



## GridIroN

Quick question guys: I'm using silver as a kill coil for a biocide in my loop, and I'm getting pretty bad condensation in my reservoir. I'm told it's normal, but I'm concerned about algae growing in the condensation. My res has gotten lower from natural bleeding shortly after I made the loop a short while ago, and I'd like to add some water to top it back up. Right now the water is sitting maybe 1/3 of a 250ml.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GridIroN*
> 
> Quick question guys: I'm using silver as a kill coil for a biocide in my loop, and I'm getting pretty bad condensation in my reservoir. I'm told it's normal, but I'm concerned about algae growing in the condensation. My res has gotten lower from natural bleeding shortly after I made the loop a short while ago, and I'd like to add some water to top it back up. Right now the water is sitting maybe 1/3 of a 250ml.


With that low level of water, its pretty typical to get condensation as the components get hot (ie gaming or benching). Just top it off. The silver is there as a biocide to prevent growth so there shouldn't be any issues even if you have some condensation in the res.


----------



## GridIroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> With that low level of water, its pretty typical to get condensation as the components get hot (ie gaming or benching). Just top it off. The silver is there as a biocide to prevent growth so there shouldn't be any issues even if you have some condensation in the res.


Thanks man!


----------



## nismoskyline

My newest build and my main rig. Tell me what you think







This build has had a long time in the coming for me. I'd appreciate criticism or complements if you have any.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

got my titan today..
time to slap that block and backplate on now..


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Looking forward to trying this out.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to see it in different colours.


looks amazing


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> got my titan today..
> time to slap that block and backplate on now..


Nice









Just placed my order for some backplates


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey thanks for the help guys! Going to go do a trade tomorrow for a Phoyba Xtreme 200mm rad, monsoon 6 pack of black chrome fittings, dp600 pump, and a bitspower 250mm resevoir. Going to start my GPU loop sooner than I thought!

Justanoldmanm very nice to see you post here! Its hard to pull off using the noctua fans, but you did it with style and class. I was going to go with red tubing with my MVE, but you have officially convinced me to go with the glossy black!! Very nice job!


----------



## Bucshman

Quick question, do you guys think a Swiftech MCP350 with an EK pump top will be enough to run a RX360, EX360, LTX block, 7870 block and a 250 res?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> Quick question, do you guys think a Swiftech MCP350 with an EK pump top will be enough to run a RX360, EX360, LTX block, 7870 block and a 250 res?


You should be fine. I used to run a 480 and 240 rads, with CPU and two GPU blocks on the same pump with no problems


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board done for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Board in its new home!


That looks absolutely beautiful. I would have never thought white black and copper could work so well together. Generally I hate the copper look but you did an amazing job with it!


----------



## w-moffatt

^^ 1 word...stunning...


----------



## She loved E

jeebus theres some nice stuff up ^^ there. nice job B NEG, minicooper, khemist & twirywirly!


----------



## PinzaC55

New front 200mm radiator assembly ready to be shoehorned into my case.


----------



## mironccr345

I want that mobo!! Nice work B-neg.


----------



## skyn3t

dang i need to re-mod my case and updgrade some hardware, i will be doing it for the next coming month. my plan is add another Pump/XSPC RX240 and mode the 5" 1/2 to fit the other RX240 and make the front intake fan's.

PS: i do have my both GTX 67's for sale with WB + stock cooler if any are interested just drop me a MSG


----------



## Janac




----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice RiG







i wish we could be neighbors so i can sleeve all you cable and make it more stunning


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Loving the white 690II!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

More goodies for SR2.2.......


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, could anyone link me to a male to male fitting I can use in between my GPU's with this much space in between them?
> 
> Thanks a lot guys!


Your idea is exactly the same as mine was which is sweet ? I have a dual rad to the reservoir to a single rad to the pump to the Gpu then CPU and back to the dual rad

It's a cross flow radiator so it exits at the bottom into the res (out the side) then back into the single rad and back into the pump, it's all concealed and you cannot see any of it



]


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> New front 200mm radiator assembly ready to be shoehorned into my case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That should perform nicely.


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Hi all, here's an update to my watercooling journey. My first plunge into the watercooling world/club can be found on page 3665 of this thread and I have just finished updating the rig... much sooner than was originally planned (got the upgrade/modding bug again).

Top GPU now under water as this was the loudest and hottest part of the build due to being so close to the bottom card (less than 1cm between them). I had a 120mm fan and homemade duct just to the right of the two cards prior to re-doing my loop which worked very well. Temps were acceptable (just) but with summer looming here in the UK (touch wood) I set to work on improving the cooling.

Ordered an EK FC-580 gpu waterblock which I got for a very reasonable price thanks to a bargain bin offer. Threw in an alphacool all copper 120 rad for a little extra cooling to deal with the extra heat.

Leak testing went well again thankfully... so far no disastrous mistakes.

I am much more satisfied with this rig now (very happy with the tubing layout and looks wicked under the UV lights)

GPU temps... pretty much 40c knocked off the load temps at the same clocks (previously 80c under load using an aggressive jet engine fan profile, now 45c load).

Pics below... Feel free to comment


----------



## wermad

Good ol' HAF 932


----------



## japanesegorilla

http://imgur.com/ZJraGau

Crappy cell phone shot before I replace my pump and cpu block. It's so tough to get a good photo. At some point when I get my system finalized I'll have to set up some lighting and actually get some good shots.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys! I got this CPU block today and I'm wondering how I can get that crud inside out? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!



I could actually open it up because I don't care about the warranty, but I'm wondering if there is an easy way of cleaning it.

Also, would I be able to clean out a radiator with tap water now and then do a final rinse whenever I get distilled water? Or would that be bad?


----------



## Solonowarion

I just cleaned my ek supremacy block with a toothbrush and hot water. After opening it of course.

Rads I just used hot water and a tiny amount of vinegar ( not a lot it can corrode copper ) After two hours of rinsing with a pump I put a bit of vinegar in the sink and so much dye came out when before it was just clear.

If you can set your pump up and run it in with some hot sink water.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys! I got this CPU block today and I'm wondering how I can get that crud inside out? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> I could actually open it up because I don't care about the warranty, but I'm wondering if there is an easy way of cleaning it.


You can open it up and use a tooth brush to clean it. If you want to do bigger cleaning and polishing, use Simichrome, Flitz, Mother's, Maas or Nevr-Dull. And then clean thoroughly with distilled water before putting back together.

DO NOT USE VINEGAR ON NICKEL (Or brasso polisher)

Quote:


> Also, would I be able to clean out a radiator with tap water now and then do a final rinse whenever I get distilled water? Or would that be bad?


Yes, this is what I do.

I put Distilled water + Vinegar (1/10) inside the radiator. Let it inside for around 10-15 minutes. Than rinse with Hot tap water and then a final good rinse with distilled water.


----------



## goodforyou19

Some awesome builds here. OCN has definitely been the key-motivator for me watercooling my rig!

My first water-cooling build. (lots of pics!!!)
Went through quite a few revisions on this computer... recently just picked up my sapphire 7950 and put it under water, and finally finished sleeving my 24-pin, PCI-E, 8-pin, and my fans.












like i said, this is my first watercooling build. Please let me know what i did well and what i can improve!


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board done for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Board in its new home!


Amazing work B Neg! Out of curiosity, how did you hide the piping so well?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodforyou19*
> 
> Some awesome builds here. OCN has definitely been the key-motivator for me watercooling my rig!
> 
> My first water-cooling build. (lots of pics!!!)
> Went through quite a few revisions on this computer... recently just picked up my sapphire 7950 and put it under water, and finally finished sleeving my 24-pin, PCI-E, 8-pin, and my fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like i said, this is my first watercooling build. Please let me know what i did well and what i can improve!


Sleeving looks good. Extensions or no?


----------



## goodforyou19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Sleeving looks good. Extensions or no?


Its original cables. Extensions would make my cable management in the mess (already is kind of a mess right now...







)


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys! I got this CPU block today and I'm wondering how I can get that crud inside out? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> I could actually open it up because I don't care about the warranty, but I'm wondering if there is an easy way of cleaning it.
> 
> Also, would I be able to clean out a radiator with tap water now and then do a final rinse whenever I get distilled water? Or would that be bad?


I have used coke before to clean a block just flush it when your done


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board done for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Board in its new home!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing work B Neg! Out of curiosity, how did you hide the piping so well?
Click to expand...










I carved them from aerogel Tim,teh tube is invisible.

I sell it at 1000000000000000000 a foot.

Also,do not use acids for cleaning WC gear,there is no need for it at all.
Toothbrush and elbow grease is the best way,boiling water is enough for rads.


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodforyou19*
> 
> Some awesome builds here. OCN has definitely been the key-motivator for me watercooling my rig!
> 
> My first water-cooling build. (lots of pics!!!)
> Went through quite a few revisions on this computer... recently just picked up my sapphire 7950 and put it under water, and finally finished sleeving my 24-pin, PCI-E, 8-pin, and my fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like i said, this is my first watercooling build. Please let me know what i did well and what i can improve!


Nice job







sleeving looks great. I got some carbon fibre cable braiding gear but the pin removal tool would not remove my enermax pci-e cables no matter what, those things are tough. Tried bending the shape of the tool aswell but it was a no go, so its sitting in the cupboard for now.

Was wondering why you have a Y fitting on the outlet of the GPU block?


----------



## Janac

temps?


----------



## Janac

temps?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flamin9_t00l*
> 
> Nice job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sleeving looks great. I got some carbon fibre cable braiding gear but the pin removal tool would not remove my enermax pci-e cables no matter what, those things are tough. Tried bending the shape of the tool aswell but it was a no go, so its sitting in the cupboard for now.
> 
> Was wondering why you have a Y fitting on the outlet of the GPU block?


It's not a Y fitting.

He's using those funky EK fittings with the raised boss with their logo stamped in.

The only unattractive aspect of the build, IMHO. (well, and the way the drain is configured)

Darlene


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flamin9_t00l*
> 
> Nice job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sleeving looks great. I got some carbon fibre cable braiding gear but the pin removal tool would not remove my enermax pci-e cables no matter what, those things are tough. Tried bending the shape of the tool aswell but it was a no go, so its sitting in the cupboard for now.
> 
> Was wondering why you have a Y fitting on the outlet of the GPU block?


It looks great, congratulations on a really good first build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys! I got this CPU block today and I'm wondering how I can get that crud inside out? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> I could actually open it up because I don't care about the warranty, but I'm wondering if there is an easy way of cleaning it.
> 
> Also, would I be able to clean out a radiator with tap water now and then do a final rinse whenever I get distilled water? Or would that be bad?


Opening an EK block will not affect your warranty. Feel totally free to open it up and give a good cleaning.

Just don't leave the nickel or the acrylic top soaking in vinegar or anything like that. You should find the nickel quite easy to clean.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It looks great, congratulations on a really good first build.
> Opening an EK block will not affect your warranty. Fell totally free to open it up and give a good cleaning.


EK CPU blocks are fine to open. However I think it might affect warranty with GPU blocks though... I'm not entirely sure


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> EK CPU blocks are fine to open. However I think it might affect warranty with GPU blocks though... I'm not entirely sure


It does not affect the warranty of any EK block. Tibor has specifically stated that several times in threads, it should not be hard to search for.


----------



## TommyMoore

New Pump, Res and 200mm Rad.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TommyMoore*
> 
> 
> 
> New Pump, Res and 200mm Rad.


Lovely!

Just sleeve those cables now yo!


----------



## TommyMoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Lovely!
> 
> Just sleeve those cables now yo!


I agree yeh. Needs to be done. Cheers.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TommyMoore*
> 
> I agree yeh. Needs to be done. Cheers.


I would love to know what water temps you get with that. Air and water temps would be great and would def assist others looking to do effective mid tower builds.


----------



## TommyMoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I would love to know what water temps you get with that. Air and water temps would be great and would def assist others looking to do effective mid tower builds.


30-32 idle and 52-54 on Intelburn Standard. Overclocked to 4.5.

GPUs run at 40 degrees on Valley benchmark with +100 core, +400 memory.

Have only just finished building so temps may get better.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TommyMoore*
> 
> 30-32 idle and 52-54 on Intelburn Standard. Overclocked to 4.5.
> 
> GPUs run at 40 degrees on Valley benchmark with +100 core, +400 memory.
> 
> Have only just finished building so temps may get better.


Cool, thanks for posting but i'm really only interested in the water temps.

Those hardware temps look great !! but hardware temps are very affected by the ambient air temperature.

The only good way to get an idea of the effectiveness and capacity of your cooling system is to measure the difference between the temp of the air in your room and the temp of water in the loop.

Great results just the same, well done. Looks like you have a nice clocking CPU there.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Lovely!
> 
> Just sleeve those cables now yo!


Looks great. Wouldn't you think though that Phobya would have made the radiator badge self adhesive so you could have it upright?


----------



## TommyMoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Looks great. Wouldn't you think though that Phobya would have made the radiator badge self adhesive so you could have it upright?


Cheers and yeh, you would.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It looks great, congratulations on a really good first build.
> Opening an EK block will not affect your warranty. Feel totally free to open it up and give a good cleaning.
> 
> Just don't leave the nickel or the acrylic top soaking in vinegar or anything like that. You should find the nickel quite easy to clean.



Then it's a juicy contradiction


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 
> Then it's a juicy contradiction


Quote from EK 7970 block installation manual :
Quote:


> WARRANTY:
> Our products are warranted against defects in materials or workmanship for a period of 24 months beginning from the date of delivery to the final user. During
> this period, products will be repaired or have parts replaced at our discretion provided that: (I) the product is returned to the agent from whom it was
> purchased; (II) the product has been purchased by an end user and has not used for commercial purposes; (III) the product has not been misused, handled
> carelessly, or used in a manner other than in accordance with the instructions provided describing its installation and prop
> er use. This warranty does not conferrights other than those expressly set out above and does not cover any claims for consequential loss or damage. This
> warranty is offered as an extra benefit and does not affect your statutory rights as a consumer. This warranty is voided if the product comes in contact with
> aggressive UV additives or other improper liquids.
> 
> EK blocks are sealed with warranty void circular label, which proves that the block has withstood a pressure leak test. Removing it will void only leaking issues.
> Any other RMA issues can be reported to [email protected] for further analysis.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 
> Then it's a juicy contradiction


If you have any problems with a block the first thing they will tell you to do is to open it and clean it.

The sticker does make things a bit confusing though, for sure.

Edit: This also from Heatkiller

When do I have to clean my Heatkiller?
This depends upon usage of the block. Dirt and salts in the water greatly increase the possibility of soiling and should be avoided altogether. We recommend the usage of demineralised / distilled water (optionally with appropriate additives). In a closed loop, problem-free operation for several years is possible, but occasional controls are recommended. Open loops, taking up dust from the environment, and / or loops operated with tap water may require maintenance every 6-8 months.

Does this affect the guarantee?
Of course, the guarantee on material and workmanship remains unaffected. The guarantee on water tightness is voided upon opening of the cooler because we cannot guarantee that the user will not make any mistakes upon reassembly. However, if the cooler is sent to Watercool for maintenance, it will be tested and the guarantee renewed.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Haha alright thanks guys! Can't wait to get my CPU loop up and running and then sell my H100i to buy two Alphacool v2 7950 blocks and backplates. So far I haven't spent any money on my loop and all I need now are the alphacool GPU blocks, backplates, a 280 rad, 360 rad, and a 120 rad. Not bad!


----------



## Shogon

Pretty sure this can be used as a blunt weapon, it weighs a ton compared to my rx360.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Haha alright thanks guys! Can't wait to get my CPU loop up and running and then sell my H100i to buy two Alphacool v2 7950 blocks and backplates. So far I haven't spent any money on my loop and all I need now are the alphacool GPU blocks, backplates, a 280 rad, 360 rad, and a 120 rad. Not bad!


What about all the other stuff you need such as pump, reservoir, fittings and tubing plus fans for the rads? I have found out WC is far more expensive than you budget it


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Haha alright thanks guys! Can't wait to get my CPU loop up and running and then sell my H100i to buy two Alphacool v2 7950 blocks and backplates. So far I haven't spent any money on my loop and all I need now are the alphacool GPU blocks, backplates, a 280 rad, 360 rad, and a 120 rad. Not bad!


Before you star buying anything make sure you know your hardware and know how you going to run your loop
. Because you can end up some extra Fittings putting yoyr money in some others parts that you not going to use. If you don't mind for the looks go with bards and clamps.I'm talk about $500 at least and up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> What about all the other stuff you need such as pump, reservoir, fittings and tubing plus fans for the rads? I have found out WC is far more expensive than you budget it


He will going to know the numbers soon.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Pron.


----------



## n3gr0

new photos of my blue lagoon xd.


----------



## Dzuks

Almost done here...

Comments welcomed...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pron.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Which Aquaero did you get?

Love their reservoirs, might go that route in the future.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pron.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which Aquaero did you get?
> 
> Love their reservoirs, might go that route in the future.
Click to expand...

5 XT.


----------



## wermad

Any reviews (or thoughts) on the Koolance QD3 qdc's?

I can't find the VL3n any more (for the size I need).


----------



## Panzerfury

Just finished moving my stuff from my Phantom 410 to my new Phantom 630:

Leak testing:



No more leak testing:



And with the side panel on:


I needed room for another 120.2 rad, since i wasn't happy with temps in the phantom 410. I also added Corsair SP120 on all the rads. Used BitFenix Spectre Pro before


----------



## ventech

Hi everyone!

This is my water cooled rig. I hope you like it


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any reviews (or thoughts) on the Koolance QD3 qdc's?
> 
> .


They are awesome. The quick release is much nicer than the older QDCs. Better than Bitspower and Swiftech's upcoming ones too IMO.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They are awesome. The quick release is much nicer than the older QDCs. Better than Bitspower and Swiftech's upcoming ones too IMO.


Thanks Low. I'm debating on going w/ an external rad and I would like to have some QDCs to put a Monsta rad external (HAF XB).


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks Low. I'm debating on going w/ an external rad and I would like to have some QDCs to put a Monsta rad external (HAF XB).


Do it.









That is what i use one set of mine for. Have a SR1 560 hidden behind my desk. Makes a huge difference in coolant temps.


----------



## LayerCakes

Does anyone know of a water block for the Asus Rampage IV Formula? Really want to sort something out as it's getting so hot when OC'd


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is what i use one set of mine for. Have a SR1 560 hidden behind my desk. Makes a huge difference in coolant temps.


Lol, its gonna go on my do list. I just ordered a new "smaller" case. Wouldn't mind setting up the UT85 on my desk w/ a rad stand (id phobya).


----------



## xxhaloownerxx

Got 1/2 of my WC'ing equipment from Frozen CPU today. I still don't have a pump, or res so I can't do anything with it yet. But next paycheck I should be golden!

I know my fans are exhaust, I'm keeping it like that to keep dust out and enforce positive pressure in the case. I'm also adding another double loop rad once I get my CPU block sometime in June.

My only regret so far is the tubing, I've heard it'll cloud really fast, but oh well. In 3-4 months I'll just buy some Primochill Blue tubing and call it a day


----------



## PinzaC55

New front radiator loosely assembled and wired, just waiting for replumbing today!


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxhaloownerxx*
> 
> Got 1/2 of my WC'ing equipment from Frozen CPU today. I still don't have a pump, or res so I can't do anything with it yet. But next paycheck I should be golden!
> 
> I know my fans are exhaust, I'm keeping it like that to keep dust out and enforce positive pressure in the case. I'm also adding another double loop rad once I get my CPU block sometime in June.
> 
> My only regret so far is the tubing, I've heard it'll cloud really fast, but oh well. In 3-4 months I'll just buy some Primochill Blue tubing and call it a day


If your fans are in exhaust that's going to produce negative air pressure in the case and cause even more dust to get into it. But nice choice on the GPU WB. I love my heatkiller.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any reviews (or thoughts) on the Koolance QD3 qdc's?
> 
> I can't find the VL3n any more (for the size I need).


got both types on mt build, the new QD3's are a lot easier to use and mount, quick release is quick release and you dont loose even a drop, have not notice any effect on flow.
the older style, well,its a pain to release the quick release, and you still loose a few drops. these are getting changed out with 2.0 build.

and ive had mine coupled uncoupled a few times now


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> New front radiator loosely assembled and wired, just waiting for replumbing today!


That 690's just dying to go swimming..


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> That 690's just dying to go swimming..


That's the eventual plan, though I would rather buy an EVGA ready made one rather than do it myself, not for the work involved but for the fact I would have like half the 690 sitting in a box gathering dust!

BTW I didn't have to cut a bit out of the HAF-X to get it in; I modified the 2 plastic blanking plugs the Xtreme 200 was supplied with by cutting the heads off thus making them into "grub screws" and I put Araldite on the threads to seal them in. This gave me the necessary clearance to slide the radiator in and assemble the other parts in situ.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> That's the eventual plan, though I would rather buy an EVGA ready made one rather than do it myself, not for the work involved but for the fact I would have like half the 690 sitting in a box gathering dust!
> 
> BTW I didn't have to cut a bit out of the HAF-X to get it in; I modified the 2 plastic blanking plugs the Xtreme 200 was supplied with by cutting the heads off thus making them into "grub screws" and I put Araldite on the threads to seal them in. This gave me the necessary clearance to slide the radiator in and assemble the other parts in situ.


Is there a seal between your fans and the rad?

And it's not half the 690, just a cheap piece of metal


----------



## PinzaC55

Depends what you mean by "seal" - I don't live near the sea so couldn't get the type with flippers







-so I used the two supplied plates and drilled holes in one to make it fit the CMM 200.
The "other half" of the 690 is Trivalent Chrome/Magnesium, Fan and LED logo, not cheap lolz


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Depends what you mean by "seal" - I don't live near the sea so couldn't get the type with flippers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -so I used the two supplied plates and drilled holes in one to make it fit the CMM 200.
> The "other half" of the 690 is Trivalent Chrome/Magnesium, Fan and LED logo, not cheap lolz


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Depends what you mean by "seal" - I don't live near the sea so couldn't get the type with flippers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -so I used the two supplied plates and drilled holes in one to make it fit the CMM 200.
> The "other half" of the 690 is Trivalent Chrome/Magnesium, Fan and LED logo, not cheap lolz


No where near as much as the actual GPU and board


----------



## IT Diva

Hey gang,

My PPC's order just came in and it gave me the chance to add to the fan / rad tests that I did a couple weeks back.

Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/41540#post_19770305

As you know from the first round, I'm not looking for exact numbers like you get from Martin.

I'm looking for how one fan option works relative to another on each of the rads I have for the builds.

To measure how much air the fans are moving, I use the tach signal of a second fan that's not powered up and read out the pulses as Hertz on a bench DMM. Multiply the Hz times 30 to get the rpm. How fast the airflow spins the passive fan seems to be a good indicator of the level of airflow.

New in this round I'll test the 140 Bgears, and the outrageously expensive, 38mm thick San Ace 140's, as well as the Corsair SP120's

The first part of the testing was with just the fans and a passive slave or rpm measuring fan without a rad.

I used a 140 slave for the 140 fans this time for less skewed results than a 120 fan with a 120 to 140 adapter.

I only did the 140 fans by themselves without a rad, as it became clear that getting readings on unloaded fans is practically meaningless, and worse, . . . it leads to errant conclusions.

Here's what I got for the 140 fans without a rad. (did not take pics of the fans only tests)

NZXT LED case fan 780 rpm

Bgears Blaster 1000 rpm

Prolimatech, Aluminum Vortex 1350 rpm

San Ace 38mm thick ($50 on sale) 920 rpm

I did not expect much from the stock NZXT fan, and it delivered as little as expected.

The Bgears has a pretty good reputation, and I expected significantly more, even for its low price. This was a considerable disappointment.

The Prolimatech delivered quite well. I've been a proponent of this fan for a long time and have over 20 of them in various builds. Its ~$30 price tag is kind of off-putting for most builders though. Don't confuse the Aluminum Vortex model with the cheapo models, there's no comparison.

The San Ace performance really ticked me off on the fan only test. . . . This number is miserable compared to the others, even worse than the ~$11 Bgears, and barely better than the free NZXT case fan. I tried both of the San Aces to be sure one wasn't defective or something, . . . . . same result.

But the San Ace fan redeems itself later, . . . it's nothing until you put a load on it, then it goes into smokin' mode.

It also makes a funny noise on start up, like a clutch engaging sort of . . . it may well have some sort of load sensing hub, it's surely big enough.

Now for the 140 fans on the GT-X 280 rad:

This is the lower rad, so it's not particularly space constrained and will have fans setup in push pull.

What I want to determine, is what fan combination gets the most airflow thru the rad, and at what dollar cost.

All the tests were done using a push and a pull fan, with the measuring fan between the rad and the pull fan.

I used a strip of blue tape to seal the gap between the pull fan and the measuring fan since there aren't 55mm long screws in my parts bins.

First up, the Bgears Blasters: about 600 rpm on the airflow measuring fan



Next up were the Prolimatechs: about 830 rpm on the measuring fan



The Bgears didn't live up to their rep, but the Prolimatechs were solid.

Now this I did not expect, especially after doing the fans only tests, . . . The San Aces that seemed so lame a few moments ago . . . .

Absolutely Freakin' Smoked at 1285 rpm


















Now spending $200 for 4 fans for P-P is just a bit beyond what I feel comfortable with, and being they are 38mm thick, that would make a rather bulky rad package.

On the other hand, using the San Aces as push fans, and the Prolimatechs or Bgears on the pull side, could be a great performing compromise.

Here's the results of a San Ace with a Bgears: about 900 rpm measured



And here's a San Ace with a Prolimatech: about 1050 rpm



Talk about a tough decision . . . the San Aces are big bucks, but I've never seen anything move air thru a 140 sized GT-X like that. . . . . Imagine 8 of them on a 560!!!

But I digress . . . .

I also tested the newly arrived 120 fans, Corsair SP120's, and the planned Silverstone FM121's on the Alphacool XT45 360 that just came in.

I really wanted to get an idea of just how potent the Corsairs are against fans I've come to like already.

The build with the Monsta 240 on the bottom, will have the XT45 360 up top, so I wanted to see what kind of airflow results I'd get with single and push - pull fans, as well as to see how the Corsair SP120's do against the Silverstone FM121's, which I've had good results from in past builds.

First up, . . . Push only Corsair SP120: about 480 rpm measured



Next up, . . . Push only FM121: ~ 690 rpm . . . this thing is snowing the Corsair



Let' see if push - pull let's the Corsairs do any better: about 760 rpm . . . a lot better than just push, but not that much better than the push Silverstone.

]

And the FM121 in P-P: nearly 1200 rpm (1190) these little suckers are rockin'



So much for how the new Corsairs did on the XT45, I was not very impressed with the performance.

They were quieter than the Silverstones, . . . . . But the performance hit was just Wayyyyyy too much to pay for a few db.

While I had the setup, I wanted to get a baseline for the Corsairs on a higher fin density rad, who knows, maybe there was a surprise like the San Aces waiting . . . . .

NOT . . . .

Here's the GT-X with a SP120 in push only: about 410 rpm . . . a good drop from the XT45 speed



Here's the GT-X with a push only FM121: about 625 rpm . . . again a pretty good drop from the XT45 speed

The higher fpi is adding a lot of load.



The higher fin density on the thicker rad is really cutting the airflow flow thru it.

Push Pull really helps out a lot here when there's a lot of restriction to the airflow.

Here's the SP120's in P-P: 720 rpm . . . a very good pickup from push only's 410 rpm



Here's the FM121's in P-P: 1180 rpm . . . . This just surprised the crap out of me! . . . virtually the same as with the XT45 speed

Is it any wonder why a got 12 of these FM121's for the two upper 360 rads!



Hope you guys found these test results as interesting as I did,

Darlene

Edit to note, that I used the same little airdam setup to isolate the individual test fan and the measuring fan so there was no, or negligible, air leaks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The problem with the Corsair 140 fans is that they are Air/quiet versions with the high pitch but with unrefined blades for static pressure,im not surprised they didnt do well on a rad.
Hopefully 140 SP versions will arrive sooner or later.

Nice to see some 140 testing being done tho,140 rads are a better purchase,the sooner fan manu's jump on board the better.

I did some testing of a similar nature but a bit more 'agricultural',4" tube with the fan on the bottom and a plug loose inside,as the speed/pressure rises,the plug ascends the tube,more pressure =more height. Agricultural but gave good results of a comparative nature.

EDIT: The Corsairs were 120's....surprised as i found them to be excellent performers,easily on par with AP15's. Much like other tests i have seen,they perform well and have a less annoying pitch of working sound than the AP15


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I wanted Corsair SP's bad for my build (with the red rings) but they didn't come in 140mm for my 560 rad so I had to go with NB's (which are really great fans too)...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The problem with the Corsair 140 fans is that they are Air/quiet versions with the high pitch but with unrefined blades for static pressure,im not surprised they didnt do well on a rad.
> Hopefully 140 SP versions will arrive sooner or later.
> 
> Nice to see some 140 testing being done tho,140 rads are a better purchase,the sooner fan manu's jump on board the better.
> 
> I did some testing of a similar nature but a bit more 'agricultural',4" tube with the fan on the bottom and a plug loose inside,as the speed/pressure rises,the plug ascends the tube,more pressure =more height. Agricultural but gave good results of a comparative nature.
> 
> EDIT: *The Corsairs were 120's....surprised as i found them to be excellent performers,easily on par with AP15's.* Much like other tests i have seen,they perform well and have a less annoying pitch of working sound than the AP15


I don't have any AP15's handy to test against, but the FM121's do move a serious amount of air, and while not on the same level of quiet as the SP120's, are not that much louder as to pass up the performance gain.

On the other hand here, there's always window fans or air conditioners on, and lawn mowers and weed wackers outside, so my ambient noise level is well above average.

The real surprise was the San Aces were so quiet for their size and power. The slower speed, 1900 rpm, for a 38mm fan that we usually see at close to 3000 or more, is probably why.

I didn't have any of the Akasa's either, but from their power draw spec and blade design, I'd bet they fall right in with the Bgears.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The problem with the Corsair 140 fans is that they are Air/quiet versions with the high pitch but with unrefined blades for static pressure,im not surprised they didnt do well on a rad.
> Hopefully 140 SP versions will arrive sooner or later.
> 
> Nice to see some 140 testing being done tho,140 rads are a better purchase,the sooner fan manu's jump on board the better.
> 
> I did some testing of a similar nature but a bit more 'agricultural',4" tube with the fan on the bottom and a plug loose inside,as the speed/pressure rises,the plug ascends the tube,more pressure =more height. Agricultural but gave good results of a comparative nature.
> 
> EDIT: *The Corsairs were 120's....surprised as i found them to be excellent performers,easily on par with AP15's.* Much like other tests i have seen,they perform well and have a less annoying pitch of working sound than the AP15
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have any AP15's handy to test against, but the FM121's do move a serious amount of air, and while not on the same level of quiet as the SP120's, are not that much louder as to pass up the performance gain.
> 
> On the other hand here, there's always window fans or air conditioners on, and lawn mowers and weed wackers outside, so my ambient noise level is well above average.
> 
> The real surprise was the San Aces were so quiet for their size and power. The slower speed, 1900 rpm, for a 38mm fan that we usually see at close to 3000 or more, is probably why.
> 
> I didn't have any of the Akasa's either, but from their power draw spec and blade design, I'd bet they fall right in with the Bgears.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Yeah,38mm will monster any 25mm fan,I had Ultra Kazes for ages...38mm and 3000rpm,bloody excellent with the GTX rads i had at the time....



God i miss them sometimes.....


----------



## xxhaloownerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> If your fans are in exhaust that's going to produce negative air pressure in the case and cause even more dust to get into it. But nice choice on the GPU WB. I love my heatkiller.


oh yes, negative pressure is what I meant! I may have had 1, or 3 drinks when I wrote that









So I was under the impression that negative pressure is better for case flow, so air doesn't hang around inside the case, should I set it up for positive air pressure once I get my CPU/GPU under water? I'll be adding a 2nd rad to the front intake so its going to be pushing quite a bit of air inside the case with only a 140mm fan set to exhaust


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A little update.

The front panel is nearly ready for the buffer,just need to add the chamfers on the edges.


----------



## tezza192

Watercooled Rasberry Pi


----------



## Thrasher1016

I'll tell ya now, if you don't ever want to test the Akasas, especially the Viper and the Piranha, you're probably better off, whither you know it or not!









They're absolutely amazing for air movement (flow), and I'm soon to find out about their static pressure chops, as I'm putting twin 140mm Vipers on my XT45 in my CaseLabs S3...
...BUT...
They're straight TORNADO-like in their volume when given any kind of real power. I have all PWM models, and as my curve ramps up (in my old rig), the ones I was using were quite a source of noise.

I will attest to one serious positive point for Akasa fans; the blade / hub bodies are VERY strong. So strong in fact, that when you're removing them for painting, you're likely to snap a motor straight out of the housing. Don't ask me how I know. And yes, that's how they're made to come out...

So I may not be scientific about it, and my opinion may be just that, but the Akasa line is _very_ good for what they are!

Thanks - T


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3gr0*
> 
> new photos of my blue lagoon xd.


I love it more close pics of the cable management and inside, it's a tiny case I like it


----------



## IT Diva

One of the reasons I started the tests was because the top rad space on the Phantom 630's isn't very large, only ~55mm.

If you want to run push - pull, you're limited to a 30mm thick rad. . . . . At least without a major mod

There is however, room enough to run 32mm, or even 38mm with a tiny mod, fans above the rad.

I was looking to find out how normal 25mm fans in P-P stacked up against a 32 or 38mm fan in push only on a fairly full thickness rad to see if that would be a workable alternative to a 30mm rad in P-P.

It's not.

The P-P 25mm fans blew the big thick fans away, both on the GTX and the Monsta.

Edit To Add: I was specifically testing against the thicker fans with good listed specs for cfm and SP in the sub 3000 rpm range.

These fans offer similar noise levels to the 25mm fans and wouldn't be too hard to take on a controller, or for long periods of gaming at high speed.

Now the big fans in P-P is a whole 'nother chapter, but generally . . . .

The airflow was so much greater with 25mm fans in P-P over a single big fan, that I gave up that concept and started looking at a mod to fit a more normal sized rad with P-P fans.

Here's what I came up with:

It works perfectly without any mods to the fans themselves for the XT45, (and others of that size like the EK) and with some mods to the fan corners, it will work for the 55mm Black Ice rads.

The only difference is the spacer lengths.

Still waiting on my hardware from McMaster to arrive, so it's just with temporary hardware atm. It's also raining, so I won't get to paint the mounting plates and the XT45 until another day, but here's a little preview:









Darlene


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tezza192*
> 
> Watercooled Rasberry Pi


ridiculously amazing


----------



## Michalius

*PSA*

LD PC-V7's in stock at Frozen CPU.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g1/c547/list/p1/Cases-LD_Cooling_Cases.html

Just bought a house, I'm hoping there will still be one available in 2 weeks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> One of the reasons I started the tests was because the top rad space on the Phantom 630's isn't very large, only ~55mm.
> 
> If you want to run push - pull, you're limited to a 30mm thick rad. . . . . At least without a major mod
> 
> There is however, room enough to run 32mm, or even 38mm with a tiny mod, fans above the rad.
> 
> I was looking to find out how normal 25mm fans in P-P stacked up against a 32 or 38mm fan in push only on a fairly full thickness rad to see if that would be a workable alternative to a 30mm rad in P-P.
> 
> It's not.
> 
> The P-P 25mm fans blew the big thick fans away, both on the GTX and the Monsta.
> 
> Now the big fans in P-P is a whole 'nother chapter, but generally . . . .
> 
> The airflow was so much greater with 25mm fans in P-P over a single big fan, that I gave up that concept and started looking at a mod to fit a more normal sized rad with P-P fans.
> 
> Here's what I came up with:
> 
> It works perfectly without any mods to the fans themselves for the XT45, (and others of that size like the EK) and with some mods to the fan corners, it will work for the 55mm Black Ice rads.
> 
> The only difference is the spacer lengths.
> 
> Still waiting on my hardware from McMaster to arrive, so it's just with temporary hardware atm. It's also raining, so I won't get to paint the mounting plates and the XT45 until another day, but here's a little preview:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Something is amiss then
I found the 38mm kazes monstered 25mm PP setups,115+ CFM in free air and a high pitch is hard to argue with
38mm Delta

AP15's in push pull


Notice the CFM.





Did you try this on a Black Ice GTX?

I really hate not having recorded proper test results when i was doing a lot of testing,keeping quoting Martin is getting old but his results are pretty similar.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Question regarding cutting tubing (specifically Primochill):

Is it almost mandatory that I get a tubing cutter of some kind, of can I use the flat blade of an Xacto set and a block and straight edge and go about it that way?

All going on barbs, if it matters...









Thanks - T


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tezza192*
> 
> Watercooled Rasberry Pi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Watercooled HTPC? Who makes that waterblock?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Question regarding cutting tubing (specifically Primochill):
> 
> Is it almost mandatory that I get a tubing cutter of some kind, of can I use the flat blade of an Xacto set and a block and straight edge and go about it that way?
> 
> All going on barbs, if it matters...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


I used to use a stanley knife...sometimes a breadknife.....whatever is closest.....

Now,its copper or acrylic tube and a hacksaw/autocut


----------



## PinzaC55

OK she is up and running with no leaks (so far).

However I have learned a couple of lessons, bearing in mind I only watercooled her in January.
Lesson #1 NEVER be tempted to go for cheap clear tubing - this is the result after 4 months

Lesson #2 (gets ready to be flamed) There are constant discussions here about the merits or demerits of various brands of fittings. When I started watercooling I bought three different makes - Koolance, Bitspower and "Generic". I used a sole Bitspower Triple Rotary fitting on my CPU block, but finding another similar one impossible to acquire I used an Alphacool on the right in this picture. The Bitspower one is absolutely perfect with tight sliding joints but the Alphacool is so wobbly that I was sure it was going to leak - in fact, until I can replace it with a Bitspower fitting I will do a visual check every time I boot up, it is so worrying.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> OK she is up and running with no leaks (so far).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However I have learned a couple of lessons, bearing in mind I only watercooled her in January.
> Lesson #1 NEVER be tempted to go for cheap clear tubing - this is the result after 4 months
> 
> Lesson #2 (gets ready to be flamed) There are constant discussions here about the merits or demerits of various brands of fittings. When I started watercooling I bought three different makes - Koolance, Bitspower and "Generic". I used a sole Bitspower Triple Rotary fitting on my CPU block, but finding another similar one impossible to acquire I used an Alphacool on the right in this picture. The Bitspower one is absolutely perfect with tight sliding joints but the Alphacool is so wobbly that I was sure it was going to leak - in fact, until I can replace it with a Bitspower fitting I will do a visual check every time I boot up, it is so worrying.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That,unfortunately,is pretty much standard for red dye regardless of tubing.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys I've finally started my first water loop ever and I have the link to the build log in my signature and if you guys could check it out and subscribe to it I would really appreciate it. Thanks a lot guys!


----------



## illuz

Got a question as I'm setting up my first loop soon.
Got a monsta 240mm to go at the bottom of my 630 as exhaust, is it better to have it pulling or pushing; or buy a fourth gt15 and go all out push pull?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> Got a question as I'm setting up my first loop soon.
> Got a monsta 240mm to go at the bottom of my 630 as exhaust, is it better to have it pulling or pushing; or buy a fourth gt15 and go all out push pull?


I think it would be better to have it pushing into the case because you would be feeding it cold air from the outside of the case and in turn, cooler temps.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> Got a question as I'm setting up my first loop soon.
> Got a monsta 240mm to go at the bottom of my 630 as exhaust, is it better to have it pulling or pushing; or buy a fourth gt15 and go all out push pull?


Push pull for a monsta,its thick and will benefit from the second fan


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> *PSA*
> 
> LD PC-V7's in stock at Frozen CPU.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g1/c547/list/p1/Cases-LD_Cooling_Cases.html
> 
> Just bought a house, I'm hoping there will still be one available in 2 weeks


Must resist temptation to sell TJ11 and get LD V8 in red/black!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> *PSA*
> 
> LD PC-V7's in stock at Frozen CPU.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g1/c547/list/p1/Cases-LD_Cooling_Cases.html
> 
> Just bought a house, I'm hoping there will still be one available in 2 weeks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must resist temptation to sell TJ11 and get LD V8 in red/black!!!
Click to expand...

DOOOOOOOOOOOOO EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If I didn't love the 90 degree rotated mobo tray so much I definitely would...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> *PSA*
> 
> LD PC-V7's in stock at Frozen CPU.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g1/c547/list/p1/Cases-LD_Cooling_Cases.html
> 
> Just bought a house, I'm hoping there will still be one available in 2 weeks


Would order if I didn't have a MurderBox preordered.


----------



## longroadtrip

^^ This...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something is amiss then
> I found the 38mm kazes monstered 25mm PP setups,115+ CFM in free air and a high pitch is hard to argue with
> 38mm Delta
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AP15's in push pull
> 
> 
> Notice the CFM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did yo
> 
> 
> on a Black Ice GTX?
> 
> I really hate not having recorded proper test results when i was doing a lot of testing,keeping quoting Martin is getting old but his results are pretty similar.


My bad for not being a bit more detailed regarding the 38mm fans . . .

I was speaking of, and testing with, sub 3000 rpm ones, that on the whole, are not much more in the db range than the 25mm silverstones I tested them against. The ones I tested are 2400 to 2600 rpm, and about 6 mmH2O SP in their specs. This Koolance model seems way overspec'd. The FM122 at only 32mm thick, bests it demonstrably, and I'll be using 4 of those on the Monsta 240, if there's room.

I have the monster 184 cfm / 20mmH2O Koolance fans on my GTX 420 in my 810 build, but that's too much noise to take for long periods when the performance isn't needed.

Those things push air thru like an F5 tornado, but the mix 'n match builds are more daily driver, gamer builds.

Sorry for not being more detailed, added that caveat to the original post.

Darlene


----------



## illuz

Alrighty dudes I'll go push pull. Going to spray my GT15s too









As for pushing into the case, I'm exhausting out the bottom. The radiator will be pulling in cool air from 2 140mm apache fans at the front, down through the rad and out the bottom.


----------



## coolmiester

XSPC Rotary 90 and 45 fittings coming very soon


----------



## GEARjmr

Installed an XSPC 3-Slot Flow Bridge between 2 x GTX 670s on a Sabertooth P67 today. Went pretty smooth, just drained it and pulled the old pipe out and slid the Flow Bridge in and tightened the 8 screws down. Only had to watch that the small O-rings didn't slide out of place.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something is amiss then
> I found the 38mm kazes monstered 25mm PP setups,115+ CFM in free air and a high pitch is hard to argue with
> 38mm Delta
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AP15's in push pull
> 
> 
> Notice the CFM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did yo
> 
> 
> on a Black Ice GTX?
> 
> I really hate not having recorded proper test results when i was doing a lot of testing,keeping quoting Martin is getting old but his results are pretty similar.
> 
> 
> 
> My bad for not being a bit more detailed regarding the 38mm fans . . .
> 
> I was speaking of, and testing with, sub 3000 rpm ones, that on the whole, are not much more in the db range than the 25mm silverstones I tested them against. The ones I tested are 2400 to 2600 rpm, and about 6 mmH2O SP in their specs. This Koolance model seems way overspec'd. The FM122 at only 32mm thick, bests it demonstrably, and I'll be using 4 of those on the Monsta 240, if there's room.
> 
> I have the monster 184 cfm / 20mmH2O Koolance fans on my GTX 420 in my 810 build, but that's too much noise to take for long periods when the performance isn't needed.
> 
> Those things push air thru like an F5 tornado, but the mix 'n match builds are more daily driver, gamer builds.
> 
> Sorry for not being more detailed, added that caveat to the original post.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

If it doesn't come with the words Sanyo,Denki or Delta on the side of the box,take the specs with a pinch of salt,if it says Coolermaster on the side then disregard the specs completely.
I did wonder why the results were odd,I still have a pair of AP 29's and a Kaze or 2 here,I may try and replicate your testing with those.


----------



## Shogon

Just a pic of my new folding PC. Still a ways to go until I am done, used my iPad to take the picture. Hope it goes smoothly.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> XSPC Rotary 90 and 45 fittings coming very soon


bout damn time. love me some xspc fittings


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> XSPC Rotary 90 and 45 fittings coming very soon


Yeah, I'm surprised it has taken them this long. I used their compression fittings almost entirely in my setup. I have some monsoons but I actually like the XSPCs better.


----------



## MiiX

Monsoon fittings... I heard people did rip of a layer when thigning them with the tool thingy that comes with them, is this still a problem? I do like Monsoon fittings, but I wont be able to return them if I get that problem as I will just pay postage fees 3x the cost of new fittings


----------



## audioholic

Has anyone had a leaky Monsoon fitting? Rotary fitting specifically?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> OK she is up and running with no leaks (so far).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However I have learned a couple of lessons, bearing in mind I only watercooled her in January.
> Lesson #1 NEVER be tempted to go for cheap clear tubing - this is the result after 4 months
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lesson #2 (gets ready to be flamed) There are constant discussions here about the merits or demerits of various brands of fittings. When I started watercooling I bought three different makes - Koolance, Bitspower and "Generic". I used a sole Bitspower Triple Rotary fitting on my CPU block, but finding another similar one impossible to acquire I used an Alphacool on the right in this picture. The Bitspower one is absolutely perfect with tight sliding joints but the Alphacool is so wobbly that I was sure it was going to leak - in fact, until I can replace it with a Bitspower fitting I will do a visual check every time I boot up, it is so worrying.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've been running Bitspower rotaries for about a year. About a month ago I started incorporating in some copper Alphacool rotaries in one of my builds. Yes, they are pretty wobbly, but I've yet to see a drop leak from one....and they are quite a bit cheaper. Actually I've used the "wobbly" to my advantage when making some tight turns.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Has anyone had a leaky Monsoon fitting? Rotary fitting specifically?


Never had a problem with any of mine...


----------



## audioholic

My 90 is dripping...I made sure it was tight in just to be sure by using pliers wrapped in foam and e-tape...but still dripped...O-ring was installed and tubing was straight...


----------



## longroadtrip

Is it leaking from the rotary or the threads?


----------



## audioholic

seems to be from the threads


----------



## longroadtrip

It's probably cross threaded then...


----------



## audioholic

I took it off and tried again...even used a different cap and no go so youre probably right..something is happening
thanks LRT


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've been running all BP fittings (including a bunch of crystal link single O-rings) since last June and haven't had many issues with leaks. There was a very slow leak from one of the crystal links (slow as in like 1 drop per week) but when I tore down the loop and replaced the 7970's with Titans I also replaced all the O-rings and all is well now. BP FTW!


----------



## Seredin

How critical is having a drain valve or a quick disconnect?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> How critical is having a drain valve or a quick disconnect?


Not critical at all..people have drain and fill ports for convenience...Same with QDCs...Not necessary, but they will most definitely make your life easier when you do any maintenance on your loop...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Not critically important but my personal opinion is that a build looks less professional without a dedicated drain solution (I know BNeg and others fervently disagree but its my opinions)....


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not critically important but my personal opinion is that a build looks less professional without a dedicated drain solution (I know BNeg and others fervently disagree but its my opinions)....


That's what a shop-vac is for! Still the easiest way to drain the loop almost 100% IMO


----------



## wermad

I always do a drain line. Just makes it easy getting most of the water out.

Got some EK backplates in. No mb to test though (lame








). New case incoming


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've been running all BP fittings (including a bunch of crystal link single O-rings) since last June and haven't had many issues with leaks. There was a very slow leak from one of the crystal links (slow as in like 1 drop per week) but when I tore down the loop and replaced the 7970's with Titans I also replaced all the O-rings and all is well now. BP FTW!


more pics!!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> more pics!!


Sure!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Would order if I didn't have a MurderBox preordered.


A MKII?








I'll be looking forward to seeing that build!


----------



## Lazy Bear

*More pictures at my build log.*


----------



## wermad

Well...since ppl are posting/sharing their cases, here's my new incoming case







:



(Preparing for flak on case criticism):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Seredin

I was wondering when I'd see someone pick it up. I wonder what building in it will be like.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Sure!


Dude unreal!! Man I usually don't like red, but dayum that looks clean and tight! What pump did u use? Is it the acrylic bottom to your res? The front is so simple yet classy. I would put a clear front with exhaust logo for the rad in the front instead of the grated mesh but that's just me... Oh yeah and it's not my money so I can say anything lol hahaha









The builds on here make u so inspired! Thank you for sharing that build! Do you have video of it?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Thanks, I love my little beast for sure! The front cover is actually a solid piece of smoked plexiglass I had cut to size. The pump is an Alphacool VPP655 and the acrylic is actually the BP pump top...


----------



## ridgey1112

That looks amazing man.
I'm normally not a fan of large cases like the TJ11, but you did an amazing job.


----------



## Seredin

Everything about 90 degree rotated motherboards is awesome in my opinion.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well...since ppl are posting/sharing their cases, here's my new incoming case


I'm pretty interested in how its gonna turn out. I seen someone complaining about a tight fit in the H220 thread. I need to get a better bench though myself. Looking at the dimastech easy V3 currently, the import price is killing me though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Not critically important but my personal opinion is that a build looks less professional without a dedicated drain solution (I know BNeg and others fervently disagree but its my opinions)....


I don't disagree that drains are handy but saying a build is 'less professional' without one I do disagree with.
Semantics I know but it is a tiny bit offensive to say builds anyone does without described like this,especially as most 'pro's' don't bother with them.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am thinking about ordering a 900D not 100% sure, but I need more space for RADs and a HAF X just is not built for it


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Thanks, I love my little beast for sure! The front cover is actually a solid piece of smoked plexiglass I had cut to size. The pump is an Alphacool VPP655 and the acrylic is actually the BP pump top...


Great looking build, esp the clear tubing/links with the red lighting - very healthy glow without the dyed liquid look. Great fotos, too.

But I gotta ask - solid acrylic in front of the front fans ? Ok, the rig is w/c.ed, but how's that work ?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking about ordering a 900D not 100% sure, but I need more space for RADs and a HAF X just is not built for it


you need more rad space,
HAF does not provide that

whats not sure about it?


----------



## wermad

900D can't handle UT86, deal breaker







. HAF-X barely handles a 55-60mm rad, never bothered.

The super tower brothers (ie Elysium, Fulmo GT, Blackhawk Ultra, etc.) have a ton of space but they are sparsely detailed imho.

Is there a perfect case......STH10...is probably the closest you'll get but it will cost yah


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking about ordering a 900D not 100% sure, but I need more space for RADs and a HAF X just is not built for it


Thats what I've done to replace my 800d. Ready for more rads so i can turn my fans down even more and not worry about my temps.

Like wermad said the st10 is the best out there but for the price its a deal breaker for me. Hell I never thought I would spend 300+ on a case until I ordered the 900d.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> My 900D build is 95% complete, just waiting on a couple of small custom pieces. Booted up and running great.


ill just go throw mine in the trash now. if anyone wants some spare parts come to 164 carnegie dr newport news va 23606


----------



## SoloTwo

Do you guys think its worth doing push/pull on a Alphacool 360 UT60 rad? Just going to be cooling my cpu for now. Looking at using Noiseblocker PLPS fans.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> Do you guys think its worth doing push/pull on a Alphacool 360 UT60 rad? Just going to be cooling my cpu for now. Looking at using Noiseblocker PLPS fans.


Absolutely!

Push pull moves so much more air thru a rad than either one alone, particularly with slower fans, that if you're going to be using the PWM function tied to temp, then you'll be able to hold the same temp at lower rpm in P-P.

Lower rpm means more quiet, which I would assume is why you chose PWM fans.

Darlene


----------



## SoloTwo

Yeah I'm planning on pairing the fans with my MCP655 PWM pump, hopefully they will all work well together.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Sure!


Looks like this build


----------



## Thrasher1016

There are noticeable differences, however... the ROG X-Fire / SLI bridge, the fitting coming off the right side of the slot-#1 card, the RAM, the direction and type of the fitting coming from teh bottom of slot-#2 card..... I'm sure there's more.

Is it the same, and if so, did the fella customize it later?

Just stating the easily pronounced lack of symmetry!

Thanks - T


----------



## Dzuks

Done, but still working on getting rid of the some pesky air bubbles. I also need to pick up a thicker bottom Rad soon.


----------



## bundymania

Wow nice rig man !


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Done, but still working on getting rid of the some pesky air bubbles. I also need to pick up a thicker bottom Rad soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really clean build. Nice job.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Really clean build. Nice job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Wow nice rig man !


Thanks guys...


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

So with GPU blocks you can let the fluid go either way round the block?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> So with GPU blocks you can let the fluid go either way round the block?


Yup.
Its only impingement style blocks (ie CPU) that are directional.


----------



## mm67

Only gpu blocks that I know of to have dedicated in/out ports are EK universal blocks, both Supreme and Supremacy versions


----------



## B NEGATIVE

in other news...

TO THE BUFFER!!



One of the fill ports is slightly out which is annoying as i can really take any more out of the top face of the cover....


----------



## gotmilkmang

Changed the fluid and added a new rad...considering this is my first watercooled rig I don't think I did to bad....I was going to give this to my girlfriend when my new rig is done but its to much for her...so it's going to be my folding one.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Double 480 Pushpull? Say it ain't so!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotmilkmang*
> 
> Changed the fluid and added a new rad...considering this is my first watercooled rig I don't think I did to bad....I was going to give this to my girlfriend when my new rig is done but its to much for her...so it's going to be my folding one.


Everything looks good but I would change a couple of things around to change the flow of the system. Maybe get a tube rest and mount it at the motherboard tray and try to shorten up some of your tubing that one long one could run behind the system probably. I've never had a Switch 810 so Im not sure.

I like the liquid color.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Well, I took some night time pictures, you guys like?


Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!














(ew, need a new side panel)


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Double 480 Pushpull? Say it ain't so!


Do you have a build log for that I would be interested to see how you fit that in there.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Well, I took some night time pictures, you ugys like?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (ew, need a new side panel)






Love the Green and black combo looks great esp. at night. Keep it up


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> Looks like this build


My rig was actually more influenced by Daniel's other build called "Nighthawk" though I didn't bother with RAM cooling. I definitely got the idea of using crystal links to connect the CPU and mobo blocks from him though.

As for the plexi on the front, there is still plenty of room around the sides and from the top and bottom where the front rad can intake air.


----------



## gotmilkmang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Everything looks good but I would change a couple of things around to change the flow of the system. Maybe get a tube rest and mount it at the motherboard tray and try to shorten up some of your tubing that one long one could run behind the system probably. I've never had a Switch 810 so Im not sure.
> 
> I like the liquid color.


Thanks it's mayhems pastel red....i thought about a tube res...ill prolly add it when I break it down for another cleaning around August....the switch 810 is nice but I find I don't have enough room with three gpus so ill need bigger on my new one


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Do you have a build log for that I would be interested to see how you fit that in there.


I do, build log is in sig. Two 60mm rads in pushpull config does fit in the bottom of an 800D chassis, but there's a couple issues. On paper and my measurements it should have fit with a couple mm to spare, but it's currently very snug. One, Alphacool quality - it's a bit taller (wider, in this case) than specs. Two, the 800D door panel hinge was a bit wider than anticipated, making closing them very difficult. It's doable at the moment, but will require some more modding to make it as easy as I wanted.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Double 480 Pushpull? Say it ain't so!


What you have done there is reduced the performance of your rads,rad sandwiching doesnt work......you are feeding one rad with the hot air of another.


----------



## sakerfalcon

I'm very well aware and have read through that comparison thread. This was more of a thought exercise exploring how much I could cram into an 800D.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> I'm very well aware and have read through that comparison thread. This was more of a thought exercise exploring how much I could cram into an 800D.












If you had skinnier rads and had the fans as intakes then you could of got away with it,its the same as i set my rad bay up.
Post some temps when its done?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What you have done there is reduced the performance of your rads,rad sandwiching doesnt work......you are feeding one rad with the hot air of another.


Agreed. I think you'd be better off removing the interior fans on both rads and using either push or pull on them both...

EDIT - Just saw your reply. Nevermind.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What you have done there is reduced the performance of your rads,rad sandwiching doesnt work......you are feeding one rad with the hot air of another.


But surely if both rads are supplied with water at the same temperature that won't matter?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What you have done there is reduced the performance of your rads,rad sandwiching doesnt work......you are feeding one rad with the hot air of another.


This is true. ^


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> But surely if both rads are supplied with water at the same temperature that won't matter?


Sure it would because the rad intaking hot air wouldn't cool the water as well as the other rad making it basically useless (and possibly detrimental) in a single loop...


----------



## NewHighScore

I think if the air coming out of your radiator is "hot" something is seriously wrong.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Double 480 Pushpull? Say it ain't so!










you are loosing so much perfpormance of the second rad... if there was a gap between you could put the rads 'facing eachother' (fans) and have the hot air go out the top


----------



## Michalius

Read the thread, haters.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> in other news...
> 
> TO THE BUFFER!!
> 
> 
> 
> One of the fill ports is slightly out which is annoying as i can really take any more out of the top face of the cover....


I never thought copper could look good in anything but a steampunk style, but this has changed the way I think man, It's awesome







keep up the good work


----------



## MrGrievous

hello yet again I have a new question in trying to plan out this build I want to do. Well what I want to know this time which setup wold be better, gpu's in parallel or series? I'm thinking series is bette r:headscrat


----------



## sakerfalcon

Parallel is better, but the difference is neglible.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Parallel is better, but the difference is neglible.


Actually series is better but negligible. Easier to bleed plus a higher flow rate through the blocks. Twice the pressure drop though, so you'll have lower flow through the rest of the loop. Plus it generally doesn't look as clean.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> hello yet again I have a new question in trying to plan out this build I want to do. Well what I want to know this time which setup wold be better, gpu's in parallel or series? I'm thinking series is bette r:headscrat


i prefer series because it maintains a higher pressure compared to parallel. This comes in handy when you're running more then two gpu blocks.

Other then that, it makes little differences w/ two gpu blocks. There's no temp difference either (I tested this a few times).


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> hello yet again I have a new question in trying to plan out this build I want to do. Well what I want to know this time which setup wold be better, gpu's in parallel or series? I'm thinking series is bette r:headscrat


What ever looks nicer


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What ever looks nicer


agreed, IMO parallel looks better when done with crystal links but I prefer to use serial for performance.

I ordered a heatkiller bridge thinking it was serial but I got it and it turns out that it's parallel. I don't mind since I'm only using two cards but just a heads up if anyone else is thinking about getting those bridges.


----------



## joejoe69

This is how I look at it:

Parallel - if you got lots of blocks and rads but with a strong pump source.

Series - if you got less blocks and rads and with an adequate pump source.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> This is how I look at it:
> 
> Parallel - if you got lots of blocks and rads but with a strong pump source.
> 
> Series - if you got less blocks and rads and with an adequate pump source.


Id have to say its the reverse.

After running quad 480s and quad 580s, series works much better since it maintains a higher pressure through multiple blocks (including mb, ram, and the cpu).

As I mentioned before, if you're only running two gpu blocks (and a cpu), either works fine. If you're running three or more gpu blocks, series does a better job, especially at purging out air.

My advise would be to use which ever is appropriate to plumb and/or for looks when running two gpu blocks.

My


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I have a question for all you crazy insane watercoolers, would it be over the top ridiculous to get a Corsair 900D case, max it out with Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans (think its 12 all up) and then fit it with 2 480 rads and use it on my current setup (CPU and GPU)?









What kinda temps and potential overclocks would it be? Also thinking of future proofing

Thanks









Im seriously considering this to


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

All I know is that when I went to my Titans I had to switch to series from the parallel setup I had on my 7970's due to there not being any EK SLI bridges available for the Titan blocks at the time. I have noticed since then that my Titan temps are a good deal lower than my 7970's were. Now there are way too many variables here to say for sure that series gives lower temps than parallel but for my specific setup it certainly appears to hold true...


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I have a question for all you crazy insane watercoolers, *would it be over the top ridiculous to get a Corsair 900D case, max it out with Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans (think its 12 all up) and then fit it with 2 480 rads and use it on my current setup (CPU and GPU)?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kinda temps and potential overclocks would it be? Also thinking of future proofing
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im seriously considering this to


This is OCN, If you ask a question like that here the answer is going to be no.









You will get good temps with two 480 rads just for one GPU and CPU


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> *This is OCN, If you ask a question like that here the answer is going to be no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> You will get good temps with two 480 rads just for one GPU and CPU


I should know that by now









lol good temps... as in freezing?







im thinking of maybe getting another GTX 670 to just coz well im a nut


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> agreed, IMO parallel looks better when done with crystal links


How is it plumbed together using crystal links? I can figure how series would be plumbed but can see a way for parallel with use of crystal links


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> All I know is that when I went to my Titans I had to switch to series from the parallel setup I had on my 7970's due to there not being any EK SLI bridges available for the Titan blocks at the time. I have noticed since then that my Titan temps are a good deal lower than my 7970's were. Now there are way too many variables here to say for sure that series gives lower temps than parallel but for my specific setup it certainly appears to hold true...


My Titans are a good 5c lower then the 690s. 7970 is a tad bit hotter when i ran it. On my quad 580s, there wasn't a temp difference running parallel vs series.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> How is it plumbed together using crystal links? I can figure how series would be plumbed but can see a way for parallel with use of crystal links


Like so:


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I have a question for all you crazy insane watercoolers, would it be over the top ridiculous to get a Corsair 900D case, max it out with Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans (think its 12 all up) and then fit it with 2 480 rads and use it on my current setup (CPU and GPU)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kinda temps and potential overclocks would it be? Also thinking of future proofing
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im seriously considering this to


If I'm trying to fit 3 480 rads into my 800D, the answer should be obvious.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> If I'm trying to fit 3 480 rads into my 800D, the answer should be obvious.


Barely had room for *two* RX 480s:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Good luck









A bit of progress w/ my new case


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> If I'm trying to fit 3 480 rads into my 800D, the answer should be obvious.


3... 480 rads.... in an 800D...



lol Overclock.net doing insane crap with computers... simply because we can















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Barely had room for *two* RX 480s:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










wow that is just insane, love where your PSU is







, looks good tho


----------



## SeekerZA

@wermad That thing looks like it transformed. And the monster just makes it look [email protected]! Can you post bigger pictures please?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> @wermad That thing looks like it transformed. And the monster just makes it look [email protected]! Can you post bigger pictures please?


And more please, you got me interested.


----------



## wermad




----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


dont tell me i wont fit INSIDE....









careful if you fit a dvd drive it might tip it over..lol..you could always fit them as uprights


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thread up.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/0_20


----------



## ridgey1112

First watercooled PC I've built. Have to say i'm addicted to water now. Just have to find a way to turn down the DDC pump, because it vibrates like crazy.


----------



## mandrix

New res for Merlin...


This was a short-lived "in between changes" pic. As you can see, I like copper....and I wish I could fit RGB led's in the cpu bracket as I have in the res.


Dual cooled Aquaero's


Always working on something.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> First watercooled PC I've built. Have to say i'm addicted to water now. Just have to find a way to turn down the DDC pump, because it vibrates like crazy.


Very impressive build! Re the vibration I don't have that pump (I use a Phobya 220) but you can get one of these http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-Anti-Vibration-Damper-Pad-Noise-Destructor-V11_900.html or possibly hook it up to a fan controller as I have done? The Phobya pump is extremely quiet except if it touches something - looking at your photo's it looks as though it is mounted on top of a HDD cage which may be acting as a "sound box" and amplifying any noise?


----------



## Triggagnomic

I bought this: www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-Laing-DDC-Foam-Pad-Anti-Vibration-Damping-Kit_12.html for my old DDC-1 +XSPC res and it was silent to the point that when the pump died I wouldn't have noticed if I wasn't bleeding it at the time...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> hello yet again I have a new question in trying to plan out this build I want to do. Well what I want to know this time which setup wold be better, gpu's in parallel or series? I'm thinking series is bette r:headscrat


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Parallel is better, but the difference is neglible.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Actually series is better but negligible. Easier to bleed plus a higher flow rate through the blocks. Twice the pressure drop though, so you'll have lower flow through the rest of the loop. Plus it generally doesn't look as clean.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> i prefer series because it maintains a higher pressure compared to parallel. This comes in handy when you're running more then two gpu blocks.
> 
> Other then that, it makes little differences w/ two gpu blocks. There's no temp difference either (I tested this a few times).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> This is how I look at it:
> 
> Parallel - if you got lots of blocks and rads but with a strong pump source.
> 
> Series - if you got less blocks and rads and with an adequate pump source.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Id have to say its the reverse.
> 
> After running quad 480s and quad 580s, series works much better since it maintains a higher pressure through multiple blocks (including mb, ram, and the cpu).
> 
> As I mentioned before, if you're only running two gpu blocks (and a cpu), either works fine. If you're running three or more gpu blocks, series does a better job, especially at purging out air.
> 
> My advise would be to use which ever is appropriate to plumb and/or for looks when running two gpu blocks.
> 
> My


While it would seem that we're never going to reach a consensus on the serial versus parallel routing of GPU's, let me throw in a bit of thought here, that can make it clear why different setups get different results, and why you have to take more factors into account than just what pump and how many GPU's.

Everyone knows that putting blocks in parallel reduces the total amount of restriction by the number of blocks, 4 blocks equals 1/4 the restriction of 1 block.

Everyone also knows that each block then gets 1/4 of the total flow rate. If you have a flow rate of 1.2 GPM, then each block has a flow rate of 0.3 GPM.

We all pretty much also understand that there is a minimum flow rate that has to be maintained thru a block for it to function efficiently.

Rule of thumb for GPU blocks is ~ 0.5GPM

Now here's where the waters start to muddy up a bit;

It's often believed that reducing the overall restriction of the GPU component of the loop will allow the pump to have a big increase in flow.

While that may be reasonably true in a dedicated GPU loop, it's definitely Not True in a single loop setup.

The CPU block is normally the single most restrictive component in a loop, as a result of that fact, it by and large determines the highest possible flow rate you're going to be able to achieve.

Sure the rads add a bit of restriction, but not nearly the same magnitude of an impingement block.

In a multi-loop setup, where GPU's are on their own loop without the relatively huge restriction of the CPU block, the flow rates can be much higher, so that being able to maintain the minimal flow rate thru each GPU is no longer the problem it was in the single loop.

Where you have a dedicated GPU loop, it really doesn't make any difference whether it's series or parallel, both will maintain plenty of flow rate and possibly an edge, a degree maybe 2, to the parallel setup since all the GPUs get coolant at the same temp coming in.

But back to the most common setup . . . . . the single loop . . .

For up to 2 GPU's, the series versus parallel setup doesn't seem to make any difference.

Even a rig pushing the minimal rule of thumb rate of 1GPM, will make the minimal rate thru each of 2 GPU's.

It's when you get to 3 or 4 GPU's that results become so varied.

Some rigs that have enough pump to be running close to 1.5 GPM or more, could run parallel, and be fine.

Other rigs barely at 1GPM will suffer significantly with more than 2 parallel GPU's.

Quads just up the ante on required flow rate for parallel operation, and for pressure potential for series operation.

I would suggest that the best way to set up triples or quads in a single loop is to combine the best of both in a series of paralleled blocks.

Put the first 2 GPU's in parallel, then series that pair to the next single or pair of GPU's.

Flow rate wise, you'll never have less than 1/2 thru any block, and restriction wise, the system will not see it as any more than 1.5 blocks for the 3 gpu setup, and 1 block for a quad.

Anyway, that's my two rational cents,

Darlene

Edit to add:

If you look at what EK has available for the FC Terminal style blocks, you'll see exactly what I referred to in what they call "semi-parallel":

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868133.pdf

They don't even show a quad parallel.


----------



## TomahawkT10




----------



## Seredin

I dig that Tomahawk. I love seeing no colors. Very well done.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomahawkT10*


Oh my....
That is AWESOME!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> hello yet again I have a new question in trying to plan out this build I want to do. Well what I want to know this time which setup wold be better, gpu's in parallel or series? I'm thinking series is bette r:headscrat
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Parallel is better, but the difference is neglible.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Actually series is better but negligible. Easier to bleed plus a higher flow rate through the blocks. Twice the pressure drop though, so you'll have lower flow through the rest of the loop. Plus it generally doesn't look as clean.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> i prefer series because it maintains a higher pressure compared to parallel. This comes in handy when you're running more then two gpu blocks.
> 
> Other then that, it makes little differences w/ two gpu blocks. There's no temp difference either (I tested this a few times).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> This is how I look at it:
> 
> Parallel - if you got lots of blocks and rads but with a strong pump source.
> 
> Series - if you got less blocks and rads and with an adequate pump source.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Id have to say its the reverse.
> 
> After running quad 480s and quad 580s, series works much better since it maintains a higher pressure through multiple blocks (including mb, ram, and the cpu).
> 
> As I mentioned before, if you're only running two gpu blocks (and a cpu), either works fine. If you're running three or more gpu blocks, series does a better job, especially at purging out air.
> 
> My advise would be to use which ever is appropriate to plumb and/or for looks when running two gpu blocks.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> While it would seem that we're never going to reach a consensus on the serial versus parallel routing of GPU's, let me throw in a bit of thought here, that can make it clear why different setups get different results, and why you have to take more factors into account than just what pump and how many GPU's.
> 
> Everyone knows that putting blocks in parallel reduces the total amount of restriction by the number of blocks, 4 blocks equals 1/4 the restriction of 1 block.
> 
> Everyone also knows that each block then gets 1/4 of the total flow rate. If you have a flow rate of 1.2 GPM, then each block has a flow rate of 0.3 GPM.
> 
> We all pretty much also understand that there is a minimum flow rate that has to be maintained thru a block for it to function efficiently.
> 
> Rule of thumb for GPU blocks is ~ 0.5GPM
> 
> Now here's where the waters start to muddy up a bit;
> 
> It's often believed that reducing the overall restriction of the GPU component of the loop will allow the pump to have a big increase in flow.
> 
> While that may be reasonably true in a dedicated GPU loop, it's definitely Not True in a single loop setup.
> 
> The CPU block is normally the single most restrictive component in a loop, as a result of that fact, it by and large determines the highest possible flow rate you're going to be able to achieve.
> 
> Sure the rads add a bit of restriction, but not nearly the same magnitude of an impingement block.
> 
> In a multi-loop setup, where GPU's are on their own loop without the relatively huge restriction of the CPU block, the flow rates can be much higher, so that being able to maintain the minimal flow rate thru each GPU is no longer the problem it was in the single loop.
> 
> Where you have a dedicated GPU loop, it really doesn't make any difference whether it's series or parallel, both will maintain plenty of flow rate and possibly an edge, a degree maybe 2, to the parallel setup since all the GPUs get coolant at the same temp coming in.
> 
> But back to the most common setup . . . . . the single loop . . .
> 
> For up to 2 GPU's, the series versus parallel setup doesn't seem to make any difference.
> 
> Even a rig pushing the minimal rule of thumb rate of 1GPM, will make the minimal rate thru each of 2 GPU's.
> 
> It's when you get to 3 or 4 GPU's that results become so varied.
> 
> Some rigs that have enough pump to be running close to 1.5 GPM or more, could run parallel, and be fine.
> 
> Other rigs barely at 1GPM will suffer significantly with more than 2 parallel GPU's.
> 
> Quads just up the ante on required flow rate for parallel operation, and for pressure potential for series operation.
> 
> I would suggest that the best way to set up triples or quads in a single loop is to combine the best of both in a series of paralleled blocks.
> 
> Put the first 2 GPU's in parallel, then series that pair to the next single or pair of GPU's.
> 
> Flow rate wise, you'll never have less than 1/2 thru any block, and restriction wise, the system will not see it as any more than 1.5 blocks for the 3 gpu setup, and 1 block for a quad.
> 
> Anyway, that's my two rational cents,
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Pretty much this.

I still found series to be the better performer for tri sli that i have now tho,my loop is back to front with the GPU's getting first flow as it were, while the CPU's are at the end of the loop.


----------



## Jakusonfire

That's a good example of why the value of high flow CPU blocks is often overlooked. eg. to get 2 GPM through a Koolance 370 is getting towards twice the pressure drop of a Supreme HF. Others are much worse.


----------



## snef

my wife's rig

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0023_zpsf0e65723.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0019_zps219571cf.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0002_zpsbb6e88f2.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0013_zpsf55cd08b.jpg.html


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Wow, that's stellar execution my man! I'm not really a fan of the all white look personally but there's not doubt that the build is first class!


----------



## Seredin

It's interesting to think about how these builds would have been received in, say, 2003 or 4. They would have been mind shattering.


----------



## wermad

Needs its mb


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> First watercooled PC I've built. Have to say I'm addicted to water now. Just have to find a way to turn down the DDC pump, because it vibrates like crazy.


I have found a couple of ways to decouple the DDC pumps that seem to work well for me, other than the commonly suggested "hang from tubing" or "use Shoggy Sandwich"...

- Get some 3M Dual-Sided Adhesive-Backed Foam, which is about 5mm thick and on the stiffer side when it comes to foam, and cut out 4 small triangle-shaped pieces; stick a triangle to each corner of the pump leaving the other side's cover on, and then remove the cover right before you go to physically plant the pump in its location

- Use long screws, bolts, and rubber washers to create "standoff mounts" that raise the pump ~1/2" or so from the surface while the rubber washers isolate the pump from the case as much as is possible. You would essentially go something like, from bottom to top: screw head, rubber washer, Case (mount point), rubber washer, nut, any excess thread, nut, rubber washer, Pump, rubber washer, nut.

- Do a combination of the above, but use a (pair of?) aluminum/steel "L-brackets" to create a pump mount. The L-Brackets should allow you to mount the brackets to the case (perhaps in the screw holes formerly utilized by the HDD cage you moved, the one where the pump currently sits?), and the screws should be decoupled at that point (screw head - washer - case - washer - nut). You can then either make the mount even sturdier by bracing the two "arms" of the mount (the parts of the L Brackets that stick out, which the pump assembly will sit on) by using two flat aluminum strips and bolting together front-front and back-back, by using the same kind of aluminum strips but cross-bracing (making an "X", so front left to rear right, and vice-versa; this is sturdier, but you have to run one on top and one on bottom), or by mounting a solid sheet of aluminum to the top of the "arms" (ideally it'd be a solid square of aluminum, and the middle would have a square a bit smaller in size than the pump cut out to allow for a fan to be mounted). You can then mount the pump to this any way you want, whichever is most convenient.

I would just recommend against mounting it in any way that would entirely restrict the bottom of the pump from receiving airflow. I have found that my DDC's (MCP35X pumps) will run extremely cool with just a minimum of airflow across the bottom of the pumps, but if it is stagnant or the pump's base is completely blocked, then they WILL get hot (and this would reduce the life of the pump).


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> First watercooled PC I've built. Have to say I'm addicted to water now. Just have to find a way to turn down the DDC pump, because it vibrates like crazy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have found a couple of ways to decouple the DDC pumps that seem to work well for me, other than the commonly suggested "hang from tubing" or "use Shoggy Sandwich"...
> 
> - Get some 3M Dual-Sided Adhesive-Backed Foam, which is about 5mm thick and on the stiffer side when it comes to foam, and cut out 4 small triangle-shaped pieces; stick a triangle to each corner of the pump leaving the other side's cover on, and then remove the cover right before you go to physically plant the pump in its location
> 
> - Use long screws, bolts, and rubber washers to create "standoff mounts" that raise the pump ~1/2" or so from the surface while the rubber washers isolate the pump from the case as much as is possible. You would essentially go something like, from bottom to top: screw head, rubber washer, Case (mount point), rubber washer, nut, any excess thread, nut, rubber washer, Pump, rubber washer, nut.
> 
> - Do a combination of the above, but use a (pair of?) aluminum/steel "L-brackets" to create a pump mount. The L-Brackets should allow you to mount the brackets to the case (perhaps in the screw holes formerly utilized by the HDD cage you moved, the one where the pump currently sits?), and the screws should be decoupled at that point (screw head - washer - case - washer - nut). You can then either make the mount even sturdier by bracing the two "arms" of the mount (the parts of the L Brackets that stick out, which the pump assembly will sit on) by using two flat aluminum strips and bolting together front-front and back-back, by using the same kind of aluminum strips but cross-bracing (making an "X", so front left to rear right, and vice-versa; this is sturdier, but you have to run one on top and one on bottom), or by mounting a solid sheet of aluminum to the top of the "arms" (ideally it'd be a solid square of aluminum, and the middle would have a square a bit smaller in size than the pump cut out to allow for a fan to be mounted). You can then mount the pump to this any way you want, whichever is most convenient.
> 
> I would just recommend against mounting it in any way that would entirely restrict the bottom of the pump from receiving airflow. I have found that my DDC's (MCP35X pumps) will run extremely cool with just a minimum of airflow across the bottom of the pumps, but if it is stagnant or the pump's base is completely blocked, then they WILL get hot (and this would reduce the life of the pump).
Click to expand...

Excellent guide, nleksan!
Rep+


----------



## Void-Ray

can i join? this is my first time water cooling setup






any suggestion is welcomed


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Void-Ray*
> 
> can i join? this is my first time water cooling setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any suggestion is welcomed


Of course you can join.
Welcome to the club


----------



## Void-Ray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Of course you can join.
> Welcome to the club


thank you sir


----------



## MetallicAcid

I own a H80, and own a couple of watercooling parts.. Looking to have a real loop completed in the next 6months.


----------



## Nova.

Looks great Metallic! How are the GPu temps? It seems like wires would get in the way and prevent some air getting to the cards.


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> my wife's rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0023_zpsf0e65723.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0019_zps219571cf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0002_zpsbb6e88f2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0013_zpsf55cd08b.jpg.html


1st class build my friend, two thumbs up


----------



## TSXmike

almost ready to join the club.









http://s5.photobucket.com/user/blackaccordlx/media/20130503_180255_zps37b44c0b.jpg.html


----------



## ridgey1112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomahawkT10*


Its builds like this that made me choose a 650D.
Awesome, so clean. Lovin' the rads, is it just vinyl wrap?


----------



## vicyo

yay, a bitspower musket!


spare time without internet and rain make you do stupid stuff xD


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> yay, a bitspower musket!
> 
> 
> spare time without internet and rain make you do stupid stuff xD










awesome!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> yay, a bitspower musket!
> 
> 
> spare time without internet and rain make you do stupid stuff xD


Ready! Aim! Fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Awesome stuff


----------



## lowfat

Re did the bench again. Selling off a couple of my old videocards. QDCs are going to make it easy to swap over to GTX780s when they arrive.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130504-_MG_3385_zps7405f074.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tul...ront/20130504-_MG_3384-2_zpsc81be276.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130504-_MG_3383_zps67b14fbf.jpg.html


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Re did the bench again. Selling off a couple of my old videocards. QDCs are going to make it easy to swap over to GTX780s when they arrive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130504-_MG_3385_zps7405f074.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tul...ront/20130504-_MG_3384-2_zpsc81be276.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130504-_MG_3383_zps67b14fbf.jpg.html


Looking good @lowfat. What happen to your 2p build?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Re did the bench again. Selling off a couple of my old videocards. QDCs are going to make it easy to swap over to GTX780s when they arrive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130504-_MG_3385_zps7405f074.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tul...ront/20130504-_MG_3384-2_zpsc81be276.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130504-_MG_3383_zps67b14fbf.jpg.html


That is one stunning test bench!








Such a different look when there's no case involved, it's really unique.
But I'm waiting to see you stuff the 780's into that incoming MKII


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good @lowfat. What happen to your 2p build?


Priorities changed a bit. I started gaming like 50x more and it just doesn't have the clock speed I need to keep the framerate I want. I'll be finishing it this summer (hopefully







) but it won't ever become my main machine. It will be used as a virtualization box more than likely. I'm glad I didn't finish it last year anyways as I've had a few ideas to make it look cleaner.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> That is one stunning test bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Such a different look when there's no case involved, it's really unique.
> But I'm waiting to see you stuff the 780's into that incoming MKII


I have 5-6 other cases in my closet and can't bring myself to use any of them. Besides the lack of a power button and front panel I'd take the bench any day. But it definitely will be retired permanently when the MKII arrives.


----------



## nagle3092

Lowfat what bench is that? I'm looking to get a new one myself.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Lowfat what bench is that? I'm looking to get a new one myself.


Tecnofront HWD w/ the middle shelf removed.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Tecnofront HWD w/ the middle shelf removed.


Thanks checking it out now.


----------



## NewHighScore

Lowfat ALWAYS has the nicest rigs. Seeing his pictures on a different site are what inspired me to try and make a beautiful looking pc.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Re did the bench again. Selling off a couple of my old videocards. QDCs are going to make it easy to swap over to GTX780s when they arrive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130504-_MG_3385_zps7405f074.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tul...ront/20130504-_MG_3384-2_zpsc81be276.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130504-_MG_3383_zps67b14fbf.jpg.html


How do you like these fans?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> How do you like these fans?


Not bad but not great. I think AP15s push more air at a similar sound level. I really like PWM though so I'll stick w/ these.


----------



## skyn3t

I just want to give you guys a heads up , I'm selling a hole bunch stuff fro water cooling. most of the parts was put together but never saw water. check it out below my sig


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not bad but not great. I think AP15s push more air at a similar sound level. I really like PWM though so I'll stick w/ these.


Really? I'm quite happy with the amount of air my NB's push but they are PK-3's. Not sure of the difference?


----------



## kizwan

My budget water cooling setup.


----------



## TomahawkT10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> Its builds like this that made me choose a 650D.
> Awesome, so clean. Lovin' the rads, is it just vinyl wrap?


Thanks for all the positive comments everyone. Very kind.

Yes it's just 3M carbon fibre vinyl wrap off a well know auction site. Hasn't effected temps and looks pretty cool. Very easy to work with as well.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Very nice Kizwan!


----------



## phantasml

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My budget water cooling setup.


Interesting color scheme but it works lol!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Well I tidied up my computer again and I haven't showed off my new EK'd GTX TITAN yet so...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Well I tidied up my computer again and I haven't showed off my new EK'd GTX TITAN yet so...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that looks so neat nice job


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys!!!
Havent asked anything in awhile...But my question is will I be losing any bendability if I swtich from 1/2ID 3/4OD to 7/16ID 5/8OD?? I ask because I am using some old 1/2 barbs that I had here for my build. And there is one spot where there is a significant bend, and the 1/2" makes it pretty simple without kinks. I also have some Masterkleer 1/2 but the wall is so thin that it kinks way to easy.

So I am looking at the 7/16 PrimoFlex Advanced. This is the 1/2 tubing I bought but with the barbs the whole tubing practically slides over the whole fitting.
Thanks guys!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Very nice Kizwan!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phantasml*
> 
> Interesting color scheme but it works lol!


Thanks! I'm glad you guys like it.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomahawkT10*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love black & white color schemes. I have one myself in my HAF X.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


Where is that SLI/Xfire bridge from? Or how did you make it?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Where is that SLI/Xfire bridge from? Or how did you make it?


That it just Bitspower Crystal links with link adapter fittings.
Found HERE
EDIT: just realized you meant the actual bridge connecting the cards, not the fittings


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys!!!
> Havent asked anything in awhile...But my question is will I be losing any bendability if I swtich from 1/2ID 3/4OD to 7/16ID 5/8OD?? I ask because I am using some old 1/2 barbs that I had here for my build. And there is one spot where there is a significant bend, and the 1/2" makes it pretty simple without kinks. I also have some Masterkleer 1/2 but the wall is so thin that it kinks way to easy.
> 
> So I am looking at the 7/16 PrimoFlex Advanced. This is the 1/2 tubing I bought but with the barbs the whole tubing practically slides over the whole fitting.
> Thanks guys!


The half inch you have has a slightly thicker wall so it should bend better then the 7/16-5/8. There is some tubing out there that breaks this mold though apparently.

My personal preference is 3/8-5/8 tubing, it bends so easy and well. But many say it looks to small in many bigger cases.


----------



## audioholic

I have a Prodigy, so the tubing makes it look even more small









I do have a question. I am trying to decide on getting an MCP35-X. Just looking for quiet. I have a BF Recon I would plug into for the control. But will this still work because the Recon is not PWM?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That it just Bitspower Crystal links with link adapter fittings.
> Found HERE


I think he was referring to the XFX crossfire bridge connecting the two cards


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Where is that SLI/Xfire bridge from? Or how did you make it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That it just Bitspower Crystal links with link adapter fittings.
> Found HERE


no, it says 'xfx black edition' on the xfire bridge.


----------



## chino1974

Its just a XFX badge that comes with their Black Edition 7970's. I have 2 laying around from my old 7970's. They look nice on the cf link or also on the water block bridges.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Its just a XFX badge that comes with their Black Edition 7970's. I have 2 laying around from my old 7970's. They look nice on the cf link or also on the water block bridges.


Ah you just stuck it onto the bridge? Very crafty







. I wish companies would release decent looking sli bridges...


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My budget water cooling setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice setup







you just need to rid of the red color
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice B&W


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I have a Prodigy, so the tubing makes it look even more small
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a question. I am trying to decide on getting an MCP35-X. Just looking for quiet. I have a BF Recon I would plug into for the control. But will this still work because the Recon is not PWM?


That case I would highly recommend 3/8 tubing, but your choice.









As for the MCP35-X it is powered by molex and the PWM signal is separate. So ideally from the CPU fan header on the motherboard. That way it will increase speed as the extra cooling is needed.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The triple and quad SLI connectors that come with ROG mobos look pretty decent IMO...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The triple and quad SLI connectors that come with ROG mobos look pretty decent IMO...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, they're the perfect "OEM" bridge


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The triple and quad SLI connectors that come with ROG mobos look pretty decent IMO...


They look alright, definitely a huge step up from what we normally get, but I'd like to see something cleaner, and preferably without ROG logos







. Also something for normal 2 card SLI, not just tri and quad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The triple and quad SLI connectors that come with ROG mobos look pretty decent IMO...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They look alright, definitely a huge step up from what we normally get, but I'd like to see something cleaner, and preferably without ROG logos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also something for normal 2 card SLI, not just tri and quad.
Click to expand...

Hard bridges are everywhere and in all sizes,Coldzero.eu can make any cover you like for them.......

Here is my current bridge.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> They look alright, definitely a huge step up from what we normally get, but I'd like to see something cleaner, and preferably without ROG logos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also something for normal 2 card SLI, not just tri and quad.


Throw a few coats of Plasti-Dip over the bridge. It will even work on flexible bridges.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> They look alright, definitely a huge step up from what we normally get, but I'd like to see something cleaner, and preferably without ROG logos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also something for normal 2 card SLI, not just tri and quad.
> 
> 
> 
> Throw a few coats of Plasti-Dip over the bridge. It will even work on flexible bridges.
Click to expand...

Or chop a plexi cover yourself.

I did that for MilSpec....



DiNoc as a finishing touch.

In other news..AQ waterblock is on.....


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hard bridges are everywhere and in all sizes,Coldzero.eu can make any cover you like for them.......
> 
> Here is my current bridge.


Thanks for the site dude, I've been looking for someone to do something like this since dwood hasn't been taking custom work last I checked. Already sent them an email.


----------



## Shogon

Can use some more work (some lol), I think I'm going to paint some fans/case parts once the weather evens out and the wind stops. Maybe use this sunset yellow pastel from Mayhem.

i7 3930k @ 4.6 1.384V (might need more voltage if I get another BSOD, doing [email protected] as the stress test since 12 hours of prime95 =/= 8 hours of [email protected])
GTX 580 @ 920 Mhz core
GTX 690 @ 1124 offset core
10mm copper pipe + aquatuning silver push fits

I can name some other stuff but that's pretty much the main course. I'm glad I went with 2 Monsta's (I think lol), since this PC is primarily for [email protected] I wanted to get the best cooling I could in this arid humid location of mine.

CPU's max temps hit around 72C, right now its at 65C since I turned my ceiling fan off, smp -10. GTX 580 max of 57C, 690s max 55C with the overclocks. Generates 120k-155k PPD.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or chop a plexi cover yourself.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I did that for MilSpec....
> 
> 
> 
> DiNoc as a finishing touch.
> 
> 
> 
> In other news..AQ waterblock is on.....


you got nothing on me mate, I watercool my keyboard and mouse too


----------



## ridgey1112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Very impressive build! Re the vibration I don't have that pump (I use a Phobya 220) but you can get one of these http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-Anti-Vibration-Damper-Pad-Noise-Destructor-V11_900.html or possibly hook it up to a fan controller as I have done? The Phobya pump is extremely quiet except if it touches something - looking at your photo's it looks as though it is mounted on top of a HDD cage which may be acting as a "sound box" and amplifying any noise?


How have you hooked your pump up to the fan controller? My DDC-1T Plus 3.2 18W has a molex and a 3 pin cable coming from it, but the 3 pin only has one wire and is just for monitoring the speed of it. I want to get Lamptron FC5 V2, but the only way i can think of hooking my pump up to this is with a female molex to male 3 pin as well as a 3 pin female to female.
Any suggestions?


----------



## ScottAllyn

My latest build using a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2:



*More Images*:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



 



My priorities with this build were low noise (achieved), performance (still tweaking), and appearance. The appearance really isn't that important since the case is sitting in a location where nobody can easily see into the window, but I have a hard time NOT fussing over the appearance excessively.







The only aspect that I'm not quite happy with is that bit of a loop in the GPU cables; I may redo them at some point.

That bay reservoir was such a headache to bleed!

I initially went with a XSPX Raystorm Copper block for the CPU but was really uncomfortable with the mounting; the springs are so freakin strong that I couldn't get a feel as to whether I was applying even pressure on the block. I ended up pulling that block off and going with an EK Supremacy using the Naked Ivy kit, which is giving me 49 to 51C load temps under Prime95 at my initial test overclock of 4.6 Ghz (i7 3770k).

*Edit*: Added Parts List.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> My latest build using a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2:
> 
> -snip-
> 
> My priorities with this build were low noise (achieved), performance (still tweaking), and appearance. The appearance really isn't that important since the case is sitting in a location where nobody can easily see into the window, but I have a hard time NOT fussing over the appearance excessively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only aspect that I'm not quite happy with is that bit of a loop in the GPU cables; I may redo them at some point.
> 
> That bay reservoir was such a headache to bleed!
> 
> I initially went with a XSPX Raystorm Copper block for the CPU but was really uncomfortable with the mounting; the springs are so freakin strong that I couldn't get a feel as to whether I was applying even pressure on the block. I ended up pulling that block off and going with an EK Supremacy using the Naked Ivy kit, which is giving me 49 to 51C load temps under Prime95 at my initial test overclock of 4.6 Ghz (i7 3770k).


Looks really good. I love B&W builds. What are your 120mm fans sitting on? The white and clear pieces. Are those just shrouds?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> How have you hooked your pump up to the fan controller? My DDC-1T Plus 3.2 18W has a molex and a 3 pin cable coming from it, but the 3 pin only has one wire and is just for monitoring the speed of it. I want to get Lamptron FC5 V2, but the only way i can think of hooking my pump up to this is with a female molex to male 3 pin as well as a 3 pin female to female.
> Any suggestions?


Not sure about that one! The Phobya 220 has only a 3 pin connector which plugs straight into the fan controller which monitors the pump speed and controls the pump speed as if it were a fan. How many wires go from the pump into the Molex connector? If its only 2 it may be possible to move the wire from the "1 wire " connector to the Molex then use a Molex - 3pin adaptor to connect it to the FC5 V2? That's the only thing I can think of but I guess someone who has your pump may know better.


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Looks really good. I love B&W builds. What are your 120mm fans sitting on? The white and clear pieces. Are those just shrouds?


The clear pieces are TFC Shrouds (TFC-XTENDER-WH) and the white pieces are ModRight 120mm Fan Gaskets (MR-NINJA-120SILENCER-WH). The gaskets have a lip; I had to trim for the 240mm radiators so that I could butt them up against each other.

Btw, if you look closely at the upper-right shroud, you can see the tube passing through it from the pump/reservoir to the motherboard block. I had to dremel some holes into the shroud to allow that tube to pass.


----------



## ridgey1112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Not sure about that one! The Phobya 220 has only a 3 pin connector which plugs straight into the fan controller which monitors the pump speed and controls the pump speed as if it were a fan. How many wires go from the pump into the Molex connector? If its only 2 it may be possible to move the wire from the "1 wire " connector to the Molex then use a Molex - 3pin adaptor to connect it to the FC5 V2? That's the only thing I can think of but I guess someone who has your pump may know better.


The molex has 2 wires, ground and 12V. I've tried to find a solution, but the general consensus was just to put up with the noise.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> The molex has 2 wires, ground and 12V. I've tried to find a solution, but the general consensus was just to put up with the noise.


So either you could try what I suggested (BTW the FC5 V2 supplies 30W per channel so it has enough power for your pump or you may be able to simply plug it into an ordinary molex and plug its 3 pin connector into the FC5 V2 which should give you a speed readout?

Edit* or remove the wires from both connectors and put them into a single 3 pin connector?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Or chop a plexi cover yourself.
> 
> I did that for MilSpec....
> 
> DiNoc as a finishing touch.
> 
> In other news..AQ waterblock is on.....


Love the look, so clean.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just did the first cut on Arctic Waters front panel...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Sorry for all the questions but i have another, what case would you hardcore watercoolers recommend for a bigish build say maybe 2 360 rads, for a cpu, dual gpu with bay res/pump combo that has enough room to work in easily with watercooling and cable management?


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Sorry for all the questions but i have another, what case would you hardcore watercoolers recommend for a bigish build say maybe 2 360 rads, for a cpu, dual gpu with bay res/pump combo that has enough room to work in easily with watercooling and cable management?


900D


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Sorry for all the questions but i have another, what case would you hardcore watercoolers recommend for a bigish build say maybe 2 360 rads, for a cpu, dual gpu with bay res/pump combo that has enough room to work in easily with watercooling and cable management?


Depends how much money you have? As the previous poster said you could go for a 900D (if you have deep pockets) or the HAF X will hold a 360 rad and a 200 rad in the front as I have in mine.The 200 rad is 40000 square mm surface area compared to 43000 for the 360 assuming they are the same thickness. The Xigmatek Elysium will support a 360 and 480 rads and is cheap. http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/xigmatek_elysium_video_review/1


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Depends how much money you have? As the previous poster said you could go for a 900D (if you have deep pockets) or the HAF X will hold a 360 rad and a 200 rad in the front as I have in mine.The 200 rad is 40000 square mm surface area compared to 43000 for the 360 assuming they are the same thickness. The Xigmatek Elysium will support a 360 and 480 rads and is cheap. http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/xigmatek_elysium_video_review/1
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


lol well not more then $500 Aus -_- id love to use something like the Lian Li Black PC-D8000 but alas i have no room for such a beast







. i was thinking about doing a 360 rad in the HAF X but its dust filters annoy me trying to clean the top and PSU one is a mission and a half, id rather not mod the case either i like keeping my cases stock incase i ever sell them. i'll probably end up getting the 900D even tho there are a few things i really dont like about it









Nice build btw


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> lol well not more then $500 Aus -_- id love to use something like the Lian Li Black PC-D8000 but alas i have no room for such a beast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i was thinking about doing a 360 rad in the HAF X but its dust filters annoy me trying to clean the top and PSU one is a mission and a half, id rather not mod the case either i like keeping my cases stock incase i ever sell them. i'll probably end up getting the 900D even tho there are a few things i really dont like about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build btw


The Phobya UltraBig supports 2 x 480 and one 280 radiators and is relatively cheap in the UK at £181 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jse-DN6VWK0


----------



## bundymania

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_04862vf51.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0478w1d3x.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0479exevm.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0481vtcjn.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0485eed08.jpg


----------



## -Nub-

Hello everyone here is my current set up. It is my first build, and wondering if i could cool 2 7970's with an extra 240 rad? Currently i have a raystorm waterblock, ex240, mcp655 pump, and also cooling the maximus v formula through the thermo fusion.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

A 240 would be the bare minimum for two 7970's but should work. A 360 would be ideal but considering your other 240 a second would probably be fine for that setup.


----------



## PedroC1999

Guys, take a look at my build log, will that 260+240 be enough?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388999/build-log-april-2013-ultimate-rig/0_40


----------



## -Nub-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> A 240 would be the bare minimum for two 7970's but should work. A 360 would be ideal but considering your other 240 a second would probably be fine for that setup.


Thanks for the response. I guess what i'm really asking is if all i can fit is a 240 would it be worth doing? I'm limited on space, and dont want to mount it outside of the case.


----------



## nagle3092

Well I broke down and ordered the V3, cant wait till it gets here.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> 900D


As i said before i am considering it but theres 3 things i dont like about it.

1. At the back of the case near the PSU theres mesh out metal for air flow for the PSU its self which is all well and good but theres no easy way to get to it and no dust filters on it
2. The 5.25 bays when being used and the covers off doesnt match the rest of the case and you cant stealth it without modding
3. This is the big one, the PCI slots you cant get at with a screw driver this is a big problem for me coz some of my graphic cards dont sit right without brute force using a screw driver so this is a major problem. i know the case can probably be modded to fix this but as i said i dont like modding cases
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> The Phobya UltraBig supports 2 x 480 and one 280 radiators and is relatively cheap in the UK at £181 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jse-DN6VWK0


Thanks i'll have a look


----------



## superericla

Ordered a few more things for my build.


----------



## driftingforlife

^what about LittleDevil or CaseLabs, out of your budget?


----------



## Red1776

The 2.2 kW Holodeck VII

[email protected]
Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz
4 X HD 7970 Quadfire
1x Corsiar AX1200W
2x FSP Group X5 500W =1000W
1XNexXxos XT45mm x 360mm Rads
2 x NexXxos XT45mm x 240mm Rads
1x NexXxos XT45mm x 120mm Rads
3X VPP-655 Pumps
1X Phobya DC-12-400 Pump
Koolance 370 CPU Block
4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks (full parallel cooling)
Rad Fans: Coolermaster Excalibur
Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing
Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2
Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir
Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> ^what about *LittleDevil* or CaseLabs, out of your budget?


+1 for the LD.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1 for the LD.


Little Devil is big and nice to work with, EXCEPT for the screws. There's something like 18 per panel for the two top ones, it's a nightmare to open and close lol.


----------



## driftingforlife

I left my panels off


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1 for the LD.
> 
> 
> 
> Little Devil is big and nice to work with, EXCEPT for the screws. There's something like 18 per panel for the two top ones, it's a nightmare to open and close lol.
Click to expand...

Aye,they can be a pain......

How often do you open your case tho?


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aye,they can be a pain......
> 
> How often do you open your case tho?


A lot for me, why I left them off









Can't wait till I can finnish my build haha, then they can go back on.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> ^what about LittleDevil or CaseLabs, out of your budget?


These are a little bit expensive here in Australia


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> These are a little bit expensive here in Australia


hahaha a little bit? more like alot


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> The 2.2 kW Holodeck VII
> 
> [email protected]
> Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)
> 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz
> 4 X HD 7970 Quadfire
> 1x Corsiar AX1200W
> 2x FSP Group X5 500W =1000W
> 1XNexXxos XT45mm x 360mm Rads
> 2 x NexXxos XT45mm x 240mm Rads
> 1x NexXxos XT45mm x 120mm Rads
> 3X VPP-655 Pumps
> 1X Phobya DC-12-400 Pump
> Koolance 370 CPU Block
> 4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks (full parallel cooling)
> Rad Fans: Coolermaster Excalibur
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
> Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing
> Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2
> Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
> BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir
> Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors[/QUOTE]
> why do you need three VPP655 pumps?


----------



## bundymania

3 pumps are always good for posing














: D


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Ordered a few more things for my build.


Nice big res.
I like my Coolplex 25 copper version. Would have went with the 50 but it's just a tiny bit too long for my setup.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> The 2.2 kW Holodeck VII
> 
> [email protected]
> Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)
> 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz
> 4 X HD 7970 Quadfire
> 1x Corsiar AX1200W
> 2x FSP Group X5 500W =1000W
> 1XNexXxos XT45mm x 360mm Rads
> 2 x NexXxos XT45mm x 240mm Rads
> 1x NexXxos XT45mm x 120mm Rads
> 3X VPP-655 Pumps
> 1X Phobya DC-12-400 Pump
> Koolance 370 CPU Block
> 4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks (full parallel cooling)
> Rad Fans: Coolermaster Excalibur
> Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
> Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing
> Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2
> Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
> BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir
> 
> Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors
> [/QUOTE]
> why do you need three VPP655 pumps?[/QUOTE]
> 
> Quote:
> [QUOTE]Originally Posted by [B]bundymania[/B] [URL=https://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/42540#post_19915181][IMG alt="View Post"]https://www.overclock.net/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/URL]
> 
> 3 pumps are always good for posing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> : D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) redundancy
> 2 ( and more importantly) cooling 4 GPU's in full parallel take a huge amount of flow..and I mean a lot)....and it's 4 pumps ..
Click to expand...


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 3 pumps are always good for posing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> : D


Appropriate avatar is appropriate.

Thanks - T


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> why do you need three VPP655 pumps?


Probably because the parallel cooling?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> why do you need three VPP655 pumps?
> 
> 
> 
> Probably because the parallel cooling?
Click to expand...

I posted that above you, but Bingo. Three V-655 was the point at which air pockets stopped being developed in the GPU blocks.
Under Heaven 4.0 2 hour loop. the GPU temps moves a total of 8c from 29c to 38c.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

But... Why not run res > pump > gpu right away? Then have a second pump to handle the rads.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> ^what about LittleDevil or CaseLabs, out of your budget?


I was having a look at them the LittleDevil cases there ok but insanely expensive







. The CaseLabs one im really loving atm is the Merlin ST10 Im loving the space inside it and the hard drive mounts are perfect seeing i only run 3







but im gonna hold off on a new case as i really wanna build a desk from scratch to fit my needs, atm im using a normal kinda crappy desk for my keyboard etc and some cheapo shelf with a bit of wood on it for my pc







not the greatest setup i must admit


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> But... Why not run res > pump > gpu right away? Then have a second pump to handle the rads.


Because as I said, how you set them up does not have then impact of creating the amouhnt of flow needed for paralleling 4 GPU's. I am not kidding ..It takess a tremendous amount of flow to keep 4 GPU blocks filled with solid water without developing dry spots or air pockets. Its why the vast majority of folks run series cooling.
The GPU's BTW have a pump directly on the inlet and pulling through the outlet. The other pumps provide flow for the CPU block and the 4 rads.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Opinion needed:

Swiftech MCP655-B, Koolance 450M top w/ variable controller, XT45 240 and UT60 140 radiators, single 2500k (no OC at this time), single 7950 w/ Swiftech Komodo (mild OC)...

I have read plenty of times that reservoir volume doesn't really matter, but is there such thing as _too_ small?

I have the matching Koolance 57mL one to go with my pump top, and it's just so tiny...









Also, are those radiators sufficient for the stated hardware, with the stated clocks?

Thanks - T


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Opinion needed:
> 
> Swiftech MCP655-B, Koolance 450M top w/ variable controller, XT45 240 and UT60 140 radiators, single 2500k (no OC at this time), single 7950 w/ Swiftech Komodo (mild OC)...
> 
> I have read plenty of times that reservoir volume doesn't really matter, but is there such thing as _too_ small?
> 
> I have the matching Koolance 57mL one to go with my pump top, and it's just so tiny...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, are those radiators sufficient for the stated hardware, with the stated clocks?
> 
> Thanks - T


You are covered capacity wise there for sure. I prefer a larger res (250ml) or larger to dissfuse the heat to a greater volume of water, but a 150ml will work well as well.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> You are covered capacity wise there for sure. I prefer a larger res (250ml) or larger to dissfuse the heat to a greater volume of water, but a 150ml will work well as well.


_Tinier_.












That's how small it is...

Thanks - T


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> You are covered capacity wise there for sure. I prefer a larger res (250ml) or larger to dissfuse the heat to a greater volume of water, but a 150ml will work well as well.
> 
> 
> 
> _Tinier_.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how small it is...
> 
> Thanks - T
Click to expand...

hehe, that will work. you can have it as small as you like . preference only.
do me us a favor and show the finished project if you would


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> hehe, that will work. you can have it as small as you like . preference only.
> do me us a favor and show the finished project if you would


It'll be a while, but you'll all get it!

I'm slower than my other fellow S3 owners... Less knowledge of water cooling, and less true idea of how to finish, frankly!
I have been peppering this thread with pics as I go along!

Thanks - T


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Opinion needed:
> 
> Swiftech MCP655-B, Koolance 450M top w/ variable controller, XT45 240 and UT60 140 radiators, single 2500k (no OC at this time), single 7950 w/ Swiftech Komodo (mild OC)...
> 
> I have read plenty of times that reservoir volume doesn't really matter, but is there such thing as _too_ small?
> 
> I have the matching Koolance 57mL one to go with my pump top, and it's just so tiny...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, are those radiators sufficient for the stated hardware, with the stated clocks?
> 
> Thanks - T


All a big res does is delay the inevitable,it just takes slightly longer for your loop to reach equilibrium temp.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All a big res does is delay the inevitable,it just takes slightly longer for your loop to reach equilibrium temp.


Yeah, that's what I've been getting from the research and reading I've been doing....
Honestly, right now it's a "space vs. absolute necessity" thing, at least when it comes to the pump / block / reservoir setup I have.

So about that radiator setup? 240 + 140 good enough for 7950 + 2500k, later to be Haswell and same GPU?

Thanks - T


----------



## PedroC1999

UT60 360mm and UT60 240mm with AP-15 fans enough for 7950 CFx and i7 3820?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All a big res does is delay the inevitable,it just takes slightly longer for your loop to reach equilibrium temp.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's what I've been getting from the research and reading I've been doing....
> Honestly, right now it's a "space vs. absolute necessity" thing, at least when it comes to the pump / block / reservoir setup I have.
> 
> So about that radiator setup? 240 + 140 good enough for 7950 + 2500k, later to be Haswell and same GPU?
> 
> Thanks - T
Click to expand...

Yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> UT60 360mm and UT60 240mm with AP-15 fans enough for 7950 CFx and i7 3820?


Yes


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes
> Yes


Should I expect very good temps?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> _Tinier_.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Aww
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how small it is...
> 
> Thanks - T


it's so cute !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Should I expect very good temps?


well, if a 240 is considered the bare minimum for a CPU + GPU and a 360 is the convenient minimum / recommended setup for a CPU + GPU then i assume that a 360 + 240 is almost perfect for your setup.







(Why almost? because this is OCN, where there is no such thing as too much rad-estate or "too expensive")

btw, have anyone here tried the Primochill CTR tube reservoirs? (with or without the different mountings/fitting holes and/or pump mount)

does anyone have any speculation of how would the Frosted CTR res would look with dyed coolant? would it have a better or worse than the effect created in the EK frosted blocks with dyed coolant? would it match it in someway? (excluding the crop circles in the consideration)


----------



## ltulod

Kinda lazy on sleeving, I might just order it from moddyi.com.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltulod*
> 
> Kinda lazy on sleeving, I might just order it from moddyi.com.






Do you have any more pictures with the door off?

Looks good.


----------



## bleucharm28

OH ! Man! I like this one. Time to get rid of my old one.


----------



## superericla

If anyone is interested in a rev 1 XSPC 7970 water block, I'll be selling one soon.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Thanks for answering my questions.


----------



## fnyk

hey just wanna here what you guy say about my just in the moment water cooling setup

p.s. i am going to upgrate it when i get me a new case and use some more time to set it up realy nice


----------



## fnyk

the cpu and gpu is ek blocks and the res and pump top is ek to
a 60mm 480 rad and 2 D5 pumps i am normaly useing a much bigger loop
and i dont have the normal pump top becos it was singel version of the pumps that is with out the normal pump top
but its a vpp655 and not mcp655

the vpp655 have 1500L anf the mcp655 have only a 1200L


----------



## Valgaur

hey guys... who here knows how to use copper tubing for their pipping in a wc system? I'm wanting to very badly and I'm just curious about the diameter for the compression fitting and such.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

got it together (except of coarse my extension top..still waiting
on my blue acrylic mirror sheet).
just leak testing now. then it's just a few small things
like cable management etc.. probally going to buy a few fan grills also.


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> hey guys... who here knows how to use copper tubing for their pipping in a wc system? I'm wanting to very badly and I'm just curious about the diameter for the compression fitting and such.


B NEG is your man. Pipe Bending 101


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> got it together (except of coarse my extension top..still waiting
> on my blue acrylic mirror sheet).
> just leak testing now. then it's just a few small things
> like cable management etc.. probally going to buy a few fan grills also.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet!


----------



## MCCSolutions

My Fatal Build Progress:




Video of the Pump and lighting system in action:

http://youtu.be/MdQJ2-cPzYU


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> hey guys... who here knows how to use copper tubing for their pipping in a wc system? I'm wanting to very badly and I'm just curious about the diameter for the compression fitting and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B NEG is your man. Pipe Bending 101
Click to expand...

This.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I have a question, i was looking at the specs for silverstones Raven RV04 found Here and it says Expansion Cards Compatible up to 13.3" long, and i worded out what i need for my rad with a fan and my titan and it works out to 13.6" , my question is do you think they got the measurement from the red line or the yellow line, the red line is to a support bar for longer workstation cards but is removable.


----------



## wermad

Its what ever room a gpu card has *unobstructed* in the case.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its what ever room a gpu card has *unobstructed* in the case.


so would you say the red line or yellow line?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> so would you say the red line or yellow line?


Its hard to say on that pic but it looks like its the red line. There's seems to be something else up to the red line so that might be your obstruction that limits the gpu length.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its hard to say on that pic but it looks like its the red line. There's seems to be something else up to the red line so that might be your obstruction that limits the gpu length.


how long are workstation gpu's or dell alienware gpu's with the special metal bracket at the end for support, because thats what that is where the red line ends..


----------



## Emissary of Pain

I replied to your comment on the Silverstone page as well ... but I will post my opinion here cause I am interested in seeing what people think ...

I would say that the distance measured is the red line because if they required you to remove the retention bracket for workstation gpus to get the desired card length they would have informed the end user that you could fit "this length or optionally "this length" if so and so is removed


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> how long are workstation gpu's or dell alienware gpu's with the special metal bracket at the end for support, because thats what that is where the red line ends..


Don't know tbh. I would contact them for the bracket length and just add that to the gpu's length.

Why the bracket on your titan? blocks and the stock cooler aren't stock


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't know tbh. I would contact them for the bracket length and just add that to the gpu's length.
> 
> Why the bracket on your titan? blocks and the stock cooler aren't stock


no i dont have a bracket or anything on my titan, but i need at least 13.6" of space to fit my titan and my 45mm thick rad and 35mm thick fan.. so if the total space isnt bigger then 13.6" then this case wont work for me...

i did contact them a few hours ago lol, will probable get a reply in a few days


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> no i dont have a bracket or anything on my titan, but i need at least 13.6" of space to fit my titan and my 45mm thick rad and 35mm thick fan.. so if the total space isnt bigger then 13.6" then this case wont work for me...
> 
> i did contact them a few hours ago lol, will probable get a reply in a few days


For a cpu and gpu (especially the cool, as in temps, titan) a good dual 35mm rad will work great paired with some good fans like GTs.

When you're working with a small case, going big requires going external or making sacrifices. Or all out modding









I ended up going external rad for the first time to get my Monsta 480 hooked up to my HAF XB. Sure, I could easily add a dual and a single 45mm rads and that would be enough for my needs but for the amount of money it makes sense to keep the Monsta


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> For a cpu and gpu (especially the cool, as in temps, titan) a good dual 35mm rad will work great paired with some good fans like GTs.
> 
> When you're working with a small case, going big requires going external or making sacrifices. Or all out modding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up going external rad for the first time to get my Monsta 480 hooked up to my HAF XB. Sure, I could easily add a dual and a single 45mm rads and that would be enough for my needs but for the amount of money it makes sense to keep the Monsta


im not using a 120mm rad tho







, im going to be using the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 180mm Dual rad with fans in push/pull which equals to the same surface area as a 480mm rad lol, i will be going SLI Titans









Not a fan of external rads..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> im not using a 120mm rad tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , im going to be using the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 180mm Dual rad with fans in push/pull which equals to the same surface area as a 480mm rad lol, i will be going SLI Titans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a fan of external rads..


Ah, yes, you mentioned you were going w/ the 180mm fan


----------



## _REAPER_

I went ahead and ordered the 900D as well as 2 UT60 QUAD RADs.. Why not.. the Case should be in around June 1st and I sent it to my next duty station. I am thinking 2 480 RADs should be enough plus a little bit of OCN OVERKILL


----------



## kizwan

B NEGATIVE,

How to add my name in the list at post #2? I already post pictures of my rig here.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I went ahead and ordered the 900D as well as 2 UT60 QUAD RADs.. Why not.. the Case should be in around June 1st and I sent it to my next duty station. I am thinking 2 480 RADs should be enough plus a little bit of OCN OVERKILL


Why not 2 480.80 monsta?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Why not 2 480.80 monsta?


Don't fit on the 900D at the bottom, possible in the front and top w/ a single bank of fans.

This was heavily discussed in 900D information thread. Even CorsairGeorge said its gonna be a tight fit. Most likely, Corsair was planning this well before the Monsta rads came out and/our started becoming more and more popular. You shouldn't have any issues w/ the UT60 (or the like: RX480, SR1 480, GTX 480, etc.).

One of my put offs since I already had three Monstas and I was willing to get this case. Seems to be out of stock or backordered pretty much everywhere.


----------



## Thetbrett

Hi all. I would love to put some water coolers on my evga 670 ftw 4 gb's. I know i can get 680 blocks and put them on, but taking my cards apart leaves me cold. I am computer literate, I can install parts etc, but taking things apart and putting them back together i am a little apprehensive. so questions..
1: How easy hard/easy is it and what tools would I need?
2: Having my cpu WC on the rear, I have an Obsidian 650D, where would I put the fans. I guess in the top fan port. I assume that once I have the cards on water, the 200mm fan on top is less necessary.
3 Having said that, would the cpu fan be enough exhaust for the rest of the case?
4. I know about EK, any other suggestions for suppliers, perhaps any Aussie members can point me to local suppliers?

This thread is so massive, I thought I would just post this instead of going through them all. Some excellent looking results tho. Any help would be great, even point me to other threads etc. Cheers.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> B NEGATIVE,
> 
> How to add my name in the list at post #2? I already post pictures of my rig here.


I have to update the list,im behind the current post count,you will get added soon.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have to update the list,im behind the current post count,you will get added soon.


This thread moves or grow so quick, it would be a big task to keep on top of it.

But great work B Neg.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

You know I didn't even think about clearance issues. Le derp. hahaha So what case are you looking at? Then again you can always get Dwood to custom you some sort of add on for the 900D or even make a WC Box.


----------



## _REAPER_

yeah it looks as if I will be able to put the UT60 with push pull on the top which should be more than enough to cool my CPU lol, the other UT60 is for the GPUs.

Now I am glad I purchased 2 pumps I think I am going to need them


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> yeah it looks as if I will be able to put the UT60 with push pull on the top which should be more than enough to cool my CPU lol, the other UT60 is for the GPUs.
> 
> Now I am glad I purchased 2 pumps I think I am going to need them


Why not just run a big loop? You'd get better use out of all the rads that way.


----------



## _REAPER_

That is the plan I will use both pumps though because I want to ensure that the pressure stays up. Eventually when I have more time I will work on either acrylic tubing or copper.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> yeah it looks as if I will be able to put the UT60 with push pull on the top which should be more than enough to cool my CPU lol, the other UT60 is for the GPUs.
> 
> Now I am glad I purchased 2 pumps I think I am going to need them
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just run a big loop? You'd get better use out of all the rads that way.
Click to expand...

Good advice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> That is the plan I will use both pumps though because I want to ensure that the pressure stays up. *Eventually when I have more time I will work on either acrylic tubing or copper.*


I can help with this too.


----------



## Killa Cam

just got a brand new alphacool ut60 280 rad and a swiftech mcp35x on craigslist for a hunned.i didnt even need it, but i couldnt resist. damn you watercooling addiction! this is my first time owning a ddc pump, gonna see how it measures against my d5 strong @ 24v


----------



## audioholic

Guys need some experienced guys here...well maybe not








But my question is....what is the best way to figure out the length of extensions needed (15mm,25mm, etc) I understand the goal is to keep my tubing as straight as possible. Do I just kind of eyeball it?


----------



## MiiX

Well, not maybe as straight as possible, but as short as possible, as that looks better, but there is little performance loss when using longer tubing runs from A to B. Correct me if im wrong


----------



## audioholic

Well I am building in a Prodigy...with two 240mm radiators...so I dont think that tubing length is going to be an issue








I am using barb BP stubby fittings, and I just purchased 7/16ID tubing. And then I will just use zip ties for a little more security.


----------



## Cosworth

Hey guys just an update to say my CPU block is now in


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Just received my Raystorm and 7/16" tubing for my first custom loop. Can't wait until the rest gets here.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thetbrett*
> 
> Hi all. I would love to put some water coolers on my evga 670 ftw 4 gb's. I know i can get 680 blocks and put them on, but taking my cards apart leaves me cold. I am computer literate, I can install parts etc, but taking things apart and putting them back together i am a little apprehensive. so questions..
> 1: How easy hard/easy is it and what tools would I need?
> 2: Having my cpu WC on the rear, I have an Obsidian 650D, where would I put the fans. I guess in the top fan port. I assume that once I have the cards on water, the 200mm fan on top is less necessary.
> 3 Having said that, would the cpu fan be enough exhaust for the rest of the case?
> 4. I know about EK, any other suggestions for suppliers, perhaps any Aussie members can point me to local suppliers?
> 
> This thread is so massive, I thought I would just post this instead of going through them all. Some excellent looking results tho. Any help would be great, even point me to other threads etc. Cheers.


Check the Titan block installation guide in my sig. Its not a 670 but the process is pretty much the same for any blocks (just follow the block's individual instructions for specifics). Anyway, the video will show you what's involved with the process...


----------



## tiborrr12

EK-FC7990 SE for AMD reference design Radeon HD 7990 (Malta). Pictures of Nickel plated blocks to follow!


----------



## MiiX

Thats a


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



BIG


block right there








Love the clean look, but is the overhang in the top left corner needed? I feel its kinda "out of place" for the plexi one


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Anyone ever seen or tried for a 4x120mm radiator in stacker 830? I'm here with a plan to by the psu inside the bays 5:25 of the case and put 2x or 1x 3x120mm 4x120mm + 3x120mm


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> Anyone ever seen or tried for a 4x120mm radiator in stacker 830? I'm here with a plan to by the psu inside the bays 5:25 of the case and put 2x or 1x 3x120mm 4x120mm + 3x120mm


Where would you install the 4x120? Up top or at the bottom? You could possible throw on in the bottom if you are doing a reverse ITX build (which you definitely should be







). The radiator would need to be rather slim and mounted from the bottom of the case more than likely.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Thats a
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> BIG
> 
> 
> block right there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the clean look, but is the overhang in the top left corner needed? I feel its kinda "out of place" for the plexi one


I don't think there is any overhang. Its just the angle the picture is taken at that makes it look that way.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thetbrett*
> 
> Hi all. I would love to put some water coolers on my evga 670 ftw 4 gb's. I know i can get 680 blocks and put them on, but taking my cards apart leaves me cold. I am computer literate, I can install parts etc, but taking things apart and putting them back together i am a little apprehensive. so questions..
> 1: How easy hard/easy is it and what tools would I need?
> 2: Having my cpu WC on the rear, I have an Obsidian 650D, where would I put the fans. I guess in the top fan port. I assume that once I have the cards on water, the 200mm fan on top is less necessary.
> 3 Having said that, would the cpu fan be enough exhaust for the rest of the case?
> 4. I know about EK, any other suggestions for suppliers, perhaps any Aussie members can point me to local suppliers?
> 
> This thread is so massive, I thought I would just post this instead of going through them all. Some excellent looking results tho. Any help would be great, even point me to other threads etc. Cheers.


1. Screwdriver.

The block you choose will have instructions,just remember to use a non conductive TIM of bare dies and remember not to crank down to hard .
I tend to do the 4 screws around the die first then do the rest.
Remember to unscrew from the back plate as well,I always forget then wonder why the cooler has not come off......

Watercool currently have the best performing blocks for GPU's,I think they are the best looking too but that is subjective.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I don't know I've never been a fan of the plexi blocks especially the copper ones but ya the ek 7990 blocks look good but would look a lot better without the silver square in the middle but that's just me..


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I don't know I've never been a fan of the plexi blocks especially the copper ones but ya the ek 7990 blocks look good but would look a lot better without the silver square in the middle but that's just me..


That likely isn't a possibility. It isn't possible to mill down acetal/acrylic thin enough to clear some components on the PCB.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I don't think there is any overhang. Its just the angle the picture is taken at that makes it look that way.


You sure? For me the red edge is overhang from the green one


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> You sure? For me the red edge is overhang from the green one


To me it looks like it is flush w/ the edge of the PCB.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> To me it looks like it is flush w/ the edge of the PCB.


Correct.


----------



## MiiX

Yea, to the PCB, but I think, personally, it would look better if the plexi was following the red line


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> To me it looks like it is flush w/ the edge of the PCB.


I think he means the plexi overhanging the nickel in that corner, not overhanging the PCB. And yes, that looks weird.









Thanks - T


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Why not 2 480.80 monsta?


MOAR rads!!!!







5 is what im gonna use 4 at the least







this build is going to be soooooo heavy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have to update the list,im behind the current post count,you will get added soon.


I hope to be in here soon after a while







Pandora's Box should please all








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I think he means the plexi overhanging the nickel in that corner, not overhanging the PCB. And yes, that looks weird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


same


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Why not 2 480.80 monsta?
> 
> 
> 
> MOAR rads!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5 is what im gonna use 4 at the least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this build is going to be soooooo heavy.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have to update the list,im behind the current post count,you will get added soon.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I hope to be in here soon after a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pandora's Box should please all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I think he means the plexi overhanging the nickel in that corner, not overhanging the PCB. And yes, that looks weird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> same
Click to expand...

Should be up there with mine in the weight dept. 4 rads/three PSU's/ 4 x 7970 w/blocks/ four pumps etc,etc all wedged into a Cosmos 2 as well weighing in at 112lbs


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Should be up there with mine in the weight dept. 4 rads/three PSU's/ 4 x 7970 w/blocks/ four pumps etc,etc weighing in at 112lbs


yeah I'm actually really liking a new remodel of the case right now and thinking 4 480 80mm rads instead of 5 making it a bit slimmer and less hefty build. not sure if I want 4 or 3 gpus though.... the current bill is right on 6k with most of everything in it.....


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Should be up there with mine in the weight dept. 4 rads/three PSU's/ 4 x 7970 w/blocks/ four pumps etc,etc weighing in at 112lbs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah I'm actually really liking a new remodel of the case right now and thinking 4 480 80mm rads instead of 5 making it a bit slimmer and less hefty build. not sure if I want 4 or 3 gpus though.... the current bill is right on 6k with most of everything in it.....
Click to expand...

If you are a gamer and are going with ultra res (say 5760 x 1080) or so. You will benefit from the 4th GPU. Actually high res benching is starting to catch on as well.


Anyway moving it becomes a project, I think 12lbs of it is water weight alone









You goping to provide updates along the way if not a build log?


----------



## RingingEars

I just finished up the copper pipes on mine...


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingingEars*
> 
> I just finished up the copper pipes on mine...






Nice


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> If you are a gamer and are going with ultra res (say 5760 x 1080) or so. You will benefit from the 4th GPU. Actually high res benching is starting to catch on as well.
> 
> 
> Anyway moving it becomes a project, I think 12lbs of it is water weight alone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You goping to provide updates along the way if not a build log?


Yes im doing a build log! Just need to set it up is all....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingingEars*
> 
> I just finished up the copper pipes on mine...


Nice sir! How will it be to switch out cpus?? And what pipping sizes did you use and what fitting?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingingEars*
> 
> I just finished up the copper pipes on mine...


Let me add my WOW!, that looks great.


----------



## RingingEars

Thanks guys.

@Valgaur. CPU swap would be easy. The fittings are a push in type some of the guys are getting from "that auction place" and using in the pipe 101 thread. The pipe is 3/8" OD annealed...


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingingEars*
> 
> Thanks guys.
> 
> @Valgaur. CPU swap would be easy. The fittings are a push in type some of the guys are getting from "that auction place" and using in the pipe 101 thread. The pipe is 3/8" OD annealed...


have any links to the pipes or fittings so I can see? if they don't leak I will hands down use them!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> have any links to the pipes or fittings so I can see? if they don't leak I will hands down use them!


I PMed you a link.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I think it looks better that way haha.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingingEars*
> 
> Thanks guys.
> 
> @Valgaur. CPU swap would be easy. The fittings are a push in type some of the guys are getting from "that auction place" and using in the pipe 101 thread. The pipe is 3/8" OD annealed...


Glad my thread was a help, your rig looks good.


----------



## RingingEars

Thanks B NEG. I couldn't have done it without your informative thread...


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> how long are workstation gpu's or dell alienware gpu's with the special metal bracket at the end for support, because thats what that is where the red line ends..


if i remimber right then it is about 12,5-13"


----------



## webdevii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Can anyone be so kind and tell me what size tubing I need for my fittings?
> I know the ID is 1/2, but I'm not entirely sure what OD I need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Couple more photos


I would second that myself, 1/2 x 3/4" tubing assuming these are compression fittings.

Dev


----------



## RingingEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I PMed you a link.


Yep. Same ones superericla is using...


----------



## MrYakuZa

For finish yet.



More Pics:


----------



## XKaan

^ Clean so far!


----------



## animal0307

What are everyone thoughts about an ATI 5870 with a 2500k on a single 45mm thick 240mm will just push? From off the top of my head its a low fpi EK rad. I'm thinking about downsizing because I really don't need that and an external 420 rad for what I don't do with my system. I'm not too terribly concerned about temps because in my book its only hot when its throttled or it smells like it is on fire. I may break down the loop band just see for my self if I get some free time.


----------



## longroadtrip

Moved everything out of Yin into an S3..getting closer to being done...


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingingEars*
> 
> Thanks guys.
> 
> @Valgaur. CPU swap would be easy. The fittings are a push in type some of the guys are getting from "that auction place" and using in the pipe 101 thread. The pipe is 3/8" OD annealed...


You can say ebay. It isn't banned from this forum. haha.


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Where would you install the 4x120? Up top or at the bottom? You could possible throw on in the bottom if you are doing a reverse ITX build (which you definitely should be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). The radiator would need to be rather slim and mounted from the bottom of the case more than likely.


The following is an outline of the idea!!!





































Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

Psu in the drive bays, brings back memories


----------



## Valgaur

ugh..... just found an amazingly beautiful looking fluid for my build.... but not sure if it would work with a wood color... its the mayhems pastel green..... what would you guys think? and silver pipping and nickle plated blocks every last one.... maybe not the cpu as it's a custom made TEC cooler for my build.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> The following is an outline of the idea!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I bet you could fit a 4x120mm at the bottom a 2x120mm up front and a 2x120mm up top. Wouldn't even need to relocate the PSU.

The plan for mine (if I ever finish







) is a 180mm up top, 2x140mm up front and a 2x120mm at the bottom.


----------



## lilchronic

ok for my first wc setup


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> The following is an outline of the idea!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


front mount psu for the win!


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> ugh..... just found an amazingly beautiful looking fluid for my build.... but not sure if it would work with a wood color... its the mayhems pastel green..... what would you guys think? and silver pipping and nickle plated blocks every last one.... maybe not the cpu as it's a custom made TEC cooler for my build.


That would look just fine with wood, just don't add too many colours to your palette, you don't want it to end up looking like unicorn poop.
Jameswalt's build using that colour if you haven't seen it yet http://www.overclock.net/t/1380883/build-log-900csq-900d-maxed-out-everything-watercooled-acrylic-tubing/860#post_19927601

Also for those guys talking about those guys talking about push in fittings, I know that many people (including review sites that give them bad ratings respectively) don't trust those fittings due to the fact that because you only push them in they feel as though the tubing would come out easily. It's quite frustrating to see that as the mechanism that holds the tube in is extremely good (better than compression IMO and easier to use too), We use festo push in fittings and tubing on an automotive project at my university and they are rated to 145 psi which is more than any PC watercooling pump could do, We have had high pressure rated tubing split/burst on us before it even came close to coming out of those fittings.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> That would look just fine with wood, just don't add too many colours to your palette, you don't want it to end up looking like unicorn poop.
> Jameswalt's build using that colour if you haven't seen it yet http://www.overclock.net/t/1380883/build-log-900csq-900d-maxed-out-everything-watercooled-acrylic-tubing/860#post_19927601
> 
> Also for those guys talking about those guys talking about push in fittings, I know that many people (including review sites that give them bad ratings respectively) don't trust those fittings due to the fact that because you only push them in they feel as though the tubing would come out easily. It's quite frustrating to see that as the mechanism that holds the tube in is extremely good (better than compression IMO and easier to use too), We use festo push in fittings and tubing on an automotive project at my university and they are rated to 145 psi which is more than any PC watercooling pump could do, We have had high pressure rated tubing split/burst on us before it even came close to coming out of those fittings.


thats the kind of reassurance i needed on those fittings









Also switched the liwuid to mayhems pastel white with all copper and clear acrylic blocks then having (possible) white rads from alphacool and then black pumps with copper tubing to match the blocks and go with the wood color as well. thats not to many is it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I rate push fit and its what I recommend solid tubing of all types,50 bar blow out is far,far beyond what you could ever generate with a WC pump.
C47s are good but don't have that safety that push fit gives.


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> That would look just fine with wood, just don't add too many colours to your palette, you don't want it to end up looking like unicorn poop.
> Jameswalt's build using that colour if you haven't seen it yet http://www.overclock.net/t/1380883/build-log-900csq-900d-maxed-out-everything-watercooled-acrylic-tubing/860#post_19927601
> 
> Also for those guys talking about those guys talking about push in fittings, I know that many people (including review sites that give them bad ratings respectively) don't trust those fittings due to the fact that because you only push them in they feel as though the tubing would come out easily. It's quite frustrating to see that as the mechanism that holds the tube in is extremely good (better than compression IMO and easier to use too), We use festo push in fittings and tubing on an automotive project at my university and they are rated to 145 psi which is more than any PC watercooling pump could do, We have had high pressure rated tubing split/burst on us before it even came close to coming out of those fittings.


You just have to be careful on what they are rating that 145 psi with. If they are designed for 145 psi using air pressure they may leak using lower psi with liquid. When you are checking the pressure rating make sure you are using a fitting designed for liquid!
Just my two cents.


----------



## BadDad62

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> ok for my first wc setup






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> ok for my first wc setup


damm good for your first time









An idea for a simpler tubing run


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> ok for my first wc setup






Not bad for your first water build.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> ok for my first wc setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats on the first wc Lilchronic.







How are the gpu temps?
It is nice not to have to listen to those fans, and not have a floor fan pointed at them when benching.
Don't tell me that it is has helped the oc on those cards, they are too good already.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I agree. That tubing is a little gnarly. heh. We could help you cut the flow down a bit and it might help things out aesthetically and functionally as well.


----------



## jokrik

Can anyone tell me a good way to remove the ek badge on their blocks?
Im trying to polish the icy finish on the block but i need to remove the badge first
Manage to get the badge off on the bridge but the cpu block is killing me

Edit : nevermind, razor did the trick


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> ok for my first wc setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> damm good for your first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An idea for a simpler tubing run
Click to expand...

... or if still want the liquid from CPU go through radiator before go to GPU, just rotate the radiator up top so that the in/out ports at the back.

res >> pump >> front radiator >> CPU >> top radiator >> GPUs >> res >> pump

Just my









Good work for first water cooling.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A gentle reminder,can you spoiler all but one of quoted pics please.
This keeps the thread tidy and makes it easier for other members.

Thanks for your compliance.


----------



## Destrto

Hey all you awesome guys in the WC thread!! Sorry to bug you, but just wanted to share my very first project with mods and such, since I hear you guys like to see the progress and ideas.
Click Here

Currently waiting on the rest of my sleeving, due today. And if DWOOD continues to be unreachable, I'll have to get some tips from you guys with the ziptie method for the "Red Mod"..

Hope you enjoy!

*Now back to your regularly scheduled programming*


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey all you awesome guys in the WC thread!! Sorry to bug you, but just wanted to share my very first project with mods and such, since I hear you guys like to see the progress and ideas.
> Click Here
> 
> Currently waiting on the rest of my sleeving, due today. And if DWOOD continues to be unreachable, I'll have to get some tips from you guys with the ziptie method for the "Red Mod"..
> 
> Hope you enjoy!
> 
> *Now back to your regularly scheduled programming*


Looks good man! I'm currently doing a project myself. It is in my sig if you want to take a look at it.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Looks good man! I'm currently doing a project myself. It is in my sig if you want to take a look at it.


Thanks! I subbed yours to keep track of your work.

I'm working on a few pieces right now before my sleeving gets here.. UPS can be so slow sometimes.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> ok for my first wc setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why did you go for universal blocks when there is so many full covers out there?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> ok for my first wc setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why did you go for universal blocks when there is so many full covers out there?
Click to expand...

Because they are not wasted money when he upgrades his cards and they are better for GPU temps than full covers.

Also,please spoiler quoted pics,you should know that already tho.

In other news...COMING SOON!


----------



## MiiX

Woah, thats a nice res right there


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Congrats on the first wc Lilchronic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are the gpu temps?
> It is nice not to have to listen to those fans, and not have a floor fan pointed at them when benching.
> Don't tell me that it is has helped the oc on those cards, they are too good already.


nope, no help with my gpu's still 1346/3650 and temps on my gpu never exceed 40c








Quote:


> Why did you go for universal blocks when there is so many full covers out there?


well they were free







i got them from my brother. i do want to get a couple full coverage blocks so i can get rid of that black tubing i have on the gpu's its kida is kinked.


----------



## bleucharm28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Moved everything out of Yin into an S3..getting closer to being done...


What mount are you using for your pump? Looks like is on mounted on the radiator.


----------



## MiiX

Im looking for a PWM controller, small one. Going to be using two of them, one for fans and one for the pump.
If you got a suggestion, please post here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bleucharm28*
> 
> What mount are you using for your pump? Looks like is on mounted on the radiator.


I think its a Koolance DCC top and res


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Psu in the drive bays, brings back memories


I saw a picture of a mounted PSU so I give this idea! : p
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I bet you could fit a 4x120mm at the bottom a 2x120mm up front and a 2x120mm up top. Wouldn't even need to relocate the PSU.
> The plan for mine (if I ever finish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) is a 180mm up top, 2x140mm up front and a 2x120mm at the bottom.


'll have a better thought let's see what comes out! on the radiator at the bottom have to see if it would work because it has several separate pieces in this case just riveted.
Soon try another drawing!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> front mount psu for the win!


let's see if the right! when I had a RV02 had a fountain in front of the case found


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bleucharm28*
> 
> What mount are you using for your pump? Looks like is on mounted on the radiator.


Yes..it is the Koolance DDC top with res..comes with an adjustable mounting bracket for 120/140mm fans...and yes, it is mounted to the rad

EDIT: The same one that MiiX linked to...


----------



## Valgaur

Hey guys I got my build log finally all setup for peoples to enjoy









This is my first watercooling build btw









Also.... I have the opportunity to have a sponsorship with bitspower fittings.... should I take it and use normal hosing? or maybe try acrylic pipping and then work around that?

log has a link in my sigs


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A gentle reminder,can you spoiler all but one of quoted pics please.
> This keeps the thread tidy and makes it easier for other members.
> 
> Thanks for your compliance.


soz BN, I've fixed my last post for you.


----------



## HF Venom

I wonder if any of you guys could give me a quick hand. There was a build a few months ago and I believe it was the winner of the mod of the month award. It had two reservoirs and lots of acrylic if I recall correctly. Used the search feature, but could find it








If anyone knows what I'm talking about and could relink me to it I would really appreciate it


----------



## TwentyCent

XSPC is right on with a res that finally incorporates decent brackets!


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> I wonder if any of you guys could give me a quick hand. There was a build a few months ago and I believe it was the winner of the mod of the month award. It had two reservoirs and lots of acrylic if I recall correctly. Used the search feature, but could find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone knows what I'm talking about and could relink me to it I would really appreciate it


This one?

http://www.cooledpc.com/build/257


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> This one?
> 
> http://www.cooledpc.com/build/257


hmmm not sure cause I've seen this build before, but I'm not sure it's the one. Did this build win the Mod of the Month here on OCN? Cause I'm fairly sure the one that I mean did, cause the first time I saw it was on the site front page. Thanks for the links though.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> I wonder if any of you guys could give me a quick hand. There was a build a few months ago and I believe it was the winner of the mod of the month award. It had two reservoirs and lots of acrylic if I recall correctly. Used the search feature, but could find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone knows what I'm talking about and could relink me to it I would really appreciate it


You mean this one?


----------



## Destrto

Deleted. Wrong thread


----------



## wermad

Almost there


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Almost there


Iddy bitty case.....massive rad.
I like,much nicer than that MM case you had.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I like how you mounted that case on that rad wermad!


----------



## _REAPER_

@ BNEG

I will be putting in a UT 480mm and the 480 monsta in the 900D I was wondering what direction I should go with the flow should I go pump to cpu to monsta down to gpus to pump to res to rad to pump


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I like how you mounted that case on that rad wermad!


I like how you worded that statement. Haha.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> @ BNEG
> 
> I will be putting in a UT 480mm and the 480 monsta in the 900D I was wondering what direction I should go with the flow should I go pump to cpu to monsta down to gpus to pump to res to rad to pump


Loop order/layout makes very little difference,go with what requires the least tubing or what gives the best run.


----------



## zalbard

I have a question... With Alphacool radiators requiring stop plugs both at the front and at the back... I suppose there are issues with mounting them flush along flat surfaces, such as most chassis that do not have extra large openings to accommodate stop fittings?


----------



## MiiX

I see that it can be a problem if you dont mount the fan on the same side as the case "wall"
This might help:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1380767/build-log-fantome-nadir-800d#post_19724557


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I see that it can be a problem if you dont mount the fan on the same side as the case "wall"
> This might help:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1380767/build-log-fantome-nadir-800d#post_19724557


Yeah, that's exactly my primary concern. I suppose using fan gaskets to mount the rad would solve the problem...


----------



## MiiX

Ye, it probably would, you cant mount a fan on that side? Atleast that would work.
Theese would do the trick http://www.aquatuning.no/product_info.php/info/p7965_Phobya-Shroud---decoupling-120mm--7mm-thickness-.html 7mm


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Almost there


So you went with the HAF XB? Massive cooling for that little case, I like it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I like how you mounted that case on that rad wermad!


----------



## Muskaos

The rig listed under my profile as "influenza", in all it's glory.


When/if I can get a hold of a 900D, I will semi-retire this one, and put a water cooled Radeon HD 5790 back in it (the video I was using when I first built the rig.) The dual GTX 680s will join a third in the new 900d.


----------



## wendersnaven

been frequenting this thread for years to get ideas for my builds.

hope i can show 1 of my past builds as a thanks to other member's builds who inspired me.

i usually post my logs at a singapore based site.


----------



## illuz

Had this radiator for a little while, so to cure my upgrade itch I thought I'd pointlessly install it even though it wont be used for a while yet...









Didn't think it would be this fat, but I guess it is a Monsta 240. Going to buy another AP15 for the top of it and use my back exhaust AP15 for push/pull - Paint them blue to match my motherboard and UV lighting in the end







.

Got the CPU block and the compression fittings, just need the coolant tubes res and pump. Think I'll tidy up the cabling when I get round to installing it all.









edit// Yeah, ignore the stock cooler... Taken my K2 out as I'm selling it to cover wc'ing costs. I was running delidded 4.7 @ v1.368-74


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Iddy bitty case.....massive rad.
> I like,much nicer than that MM case you had.


It is a challenge since it seems smalls, looks big in person, but easily fills up! With a bit of modding, and some thought can get it going. The better half was totally pissed but she understands I can make some money back selling the old stuff. So, i had to set this thing up w/out buying anything (resisting a many cart check out







). I am thinking of buying some rad brackets as the fan shroud holding the Monsta can break. Or just stick a box on the back







. Buys me kudos w/ the wife when I diy (aiming for a 3rd titan and three 1440 screens down the road).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I like how you mounted that case on that rad wermad!


Lol, this made my day, tnx mate!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So you went with the HAF XB? Massive cooling for that little case, I like it.


Its been on my radar for a while. Very unique small package. I was looking at the AeroCool Strike-X air chassis but the HAF XB was cheaper. Since I switched to two Titans, its hellavu lot cooler then four 580s and a bit cooler then two 690s. I did manage to add one of my FrozenQ reservoirs. That thing is epic looking and i really didn't want to get rid of it. Lost all my drive bays but I still have my external enclosure for it. Had to get creative to plumb the rear rad. Now if the dvi connectors fit (







).

So more pics:


----------



## subsven

Added an RX480 to the cheap file cabinet I have next to my nice hardwood desk.







Re-plumbed everything, got a piece of fuzz that was stuck in my CPU block, remounted the pump, etc. Still need to add a few fittings and clean things up a bit more, but I'm running 1215 Mhz on both GTX 670's, 4.8 Ghz @ 1.3 on my 3770k, GPU temps ~30c under load, CPU ~85c under Prime95 (36 hours stable).

























This is my first attempt at WCing, so be kind.









Loop consists of a Swiftech MCP-35x2, Koolance 380i, 2x Heatkiller GPU X3's, 1x Swiftech 240mm x 25mm rad, 1x Phobia 200mm x 25mm rad, all Monsoon fittings, XSPC dual bay res, 1x rx480 60mm rad 4 Noctua's in Push.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Added an RX480 to the cheap file cabinet I have next to my nice hardwood desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-plumbed everything, got a piece of fuzz that was stuck in my CPU block, remounted the pump, etc. Still need to add a few fittings and clean things up a bit more, but I'm running 1215 Mhz on both GTX 670's, 4.8 Ghz @ 1.3 on my 3770k, GPU temps ~30c under load, CPU ~85c under Prime95 (36 hours stable).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first attempt at WCing, so be kind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop consists of a Swiftech MCP-35x2, Koolance 380i, 2x Heatkiller GPU X3's, 1x Swiftech 240mm x 25mm rad, 1x Phobia 200mm x 25mm rad, all Monsoon fittings, XSPC dual bay res, 1x rx480 60mm rad 4 Noctua's in Push.


Adding some pass through fittings or some threaded quick disconnects at the back of the case would really clean things up.


----------



## illuz

Is your chip delidded? Could probably hit 5GHz if it were!


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> Is your chip delidded? Could probably hit 5GHz if it were!


It is not. When things are cooler in my house temps won't go above 78-79c while running Prime. I don't want do delid as I have the Overclock warranty on the processor and that would void it. If I push it to the point of burning it out Intel will send me 1 free replacement, but not if I delid it.

And @lowfat, next on the list is a few different fitting types, I really don't like the angle of the tube at the bottom of the GPU blocks either. I've also heard that those QD4's that I have fit nicely into the grommets in the back of the case. The only thing I like about having them outside the case though is that I can pop them off of the rad loop back there and snap them into each other so that I can move the case if I need to, as the rad is hard mounted to the file cabinet.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Added an RX480 to the cheap file cabinet I have next to my nice hardwood desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-plumbed everything, got a piece of fuzz that was stuck in my CPU block, remounted the pump, etc. Still need to add a few fittings and clean things up a bit more, but I'm running 1215 Mhz on both GTX 670's, 4.8 Ghz @ 1.3 on my 3770k, GPU temps ~30c under load, CPU ~85c under Prime95 (36 hours stable).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first attempt at WCing, so be kind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop consists of a Swiftech MCP-35x2, Koolance 380i, 2x Heatkiller GPU X3's, 1x Swiftech 240mm x 25mm rad, 1x Phobia 200mm x 25mm rad, all Monsoon fittings, XSPC dual bay res, 1x rx480 60mm rad 4 Noctua's in Push.


Nice loop, loving the Xtreme 200









Maybe for a cleaner looking loop you could use a simpler tubing run? What do you think of this?


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In other news...COMING SOON!


oh man. first angled adapters and now this? dammit xspc, i don't need a new res but that looks so good
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wendersnaven*
> 
> been frequenting this thread for years to get ideas for my builds.
> 
> hope i can show 1 of my past builds as a thanks to other member's builds who inspired me.
> 
> i usually post my logs at a singapore based site.


lovely build


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Added an RX480 to the cheap file cabinet I have next to my nice hardwood desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-plumbed everything, got a piece of fuzz that was stuck in my CPU block, remounted the pump, etc. Still need to add a few fittings and clean things up a bit more, but I'm running 1215 Mhz on both GTX 670's, 4.8 Ghz @ 1.3 on my 3770k, GPU temps ~30c under load, CPU ~85c under Prime95 (36 hours stable).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first attempt at WCing, so be kind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop consists of a Swiftech MCP-35x2, Koolance 380i, 2x Heatkiller GPU X3's, 1x Swiftech 240mm x 25mm rad, 1x Phobia 200mm x 25mm rad, all Monsoon fittings, XSPC dual bay res, 1x rx480 60mm rad 4 Noctua's in Push.


Ah the good 'ol 600T. I have two of those kicking around my house now.







I like it. I think the routing of the tubes could be cleaned up a little though. Also the pump, looks like you're not using any kind of padding under the pump heatsink to reduce vibrations? I have a single MCP35X and I have found if not padded well, it can get loud at full speed. I can only imagine how the X2 would sound at 100% unpadded.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Had this radiator for a little while, so to cure my upgrade itch I thought I'd pointlessly install it even though it wont be used for a while yet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't think it would be this fat, but I guess it is a Monsta 240. Going to buy another AP15 for the top of it and use my back exhaust AP15 for push/pull - Paint them blue to match my motherboard and UV lighting in the end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Got the CPU block and the compression fittings, just need the coolant tubes res and pump. Think I'll tidy up the cabling when I get round to installing it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit// Yeah, ignore the stock cooler... Taken my K2 out as I'm selling it to cover wc'ing costs. I was running delidded 4.7 @ v1.368-74


That pic just reminded me that I have to install my new block that's been sitting in the box since Jan.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That pic just reminded me that I have to install my new block that's been sitting in the box since Jan.


I'd really rather not think about all the unused equipment I still need to start using. It is very depressing.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That pic just reminded me that I have to install my new block that's been sitting in the box since Jan.




lol


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hey guys I got my build log finally all setup for peoples to enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first watercooling build btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also.... I have the opportunity to have a sponsorship with bitspower fittings.... should I take it and use normal hosing? or maybe try acrylic pipping and then work around that?
> 
> log has a link in my sigs


Id go some some acrylic! Just because I just bought some e22 and am going to bend it. You seem seem to be going all out. Id like to see it in your build!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That pic just reminded me that I have to install my new block that's been sitting in the box since Jan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd really rather not think about all the unused equipment I still need to start using. It is very depressing.
Click to expand...

+1

Even the stuff i didnt pay for that is sitting around makes me sadpanda.

Still,the test bench is getting rebuilt for some block and rad testing so a lot of it will be used at least once!









The only thing i dont have a surplus of is GPU's,I need to get a hook up on those.


----------



## bundymania

Icebergs melting faster these days....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Icebergs melting faster these days....


Looking forward to your performance results.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd really rather not think about all the unused equipment I still need to start using. It is very depressing.


hmmmm, Wonder what kind of goodies you have?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1
> Even the stuff i didnt pay for that is sitting around makes me sadpanda.
> Still,the test bench is getting rebuilt for some block and rad testing so a lot of it will be used at least once!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing i dont have a surplus of is GPU's,I need to get a hook up on those.


I'll be more than happy to take some of those goodies off your hands.


----------



## GhostDog99

Up Date









http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4713.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4769.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4807.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4812.jpg.html


----------



## illuz

That's a sick rig







. What did that cost you if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## MiiX

I can count 19 extenders ;D Great rig!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Up Date
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4713.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4769.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4807.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4812.jpg.html


Wow, that rad! Looks good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I can count 19 extenders ;D Great rig!


And they are not cheap.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> That's a sick rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What did that cost you if you don't mind me asking?


a round 5k
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I can count 19 extenders ;D Great rig!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow, that rad! Looks good.
> And they are not cheap.


Thanks guys


----------



## macandy13

That is an incredibly tidy setup









also what chassis are you using?


----------



## audioholic

2x240mm Prodigy is coming along nicely


----------



## Thrasher1016

*NEW TOYS!!!*









Here's the eagerly anticipated Lamptron water cooling controller, and a few new fittings.
(Crap first pic, sorry... Didn't realize it didn't focus...)



Cleaning cloth. Nice!



Hot.



Ah-hah! So fine!











Rear end. Very well done...



Spanky! I'm gonna love having this in my rig, guys...











Nicely sleeved cables, straight from the box. Very well done, Lamptron!



I've fallen away from Bitspower for one needed device, a 90 degree female-to-female "L", and I chose Alphacool.
The four of them are lined along the right side, and a few new Bitspower ones are mixed among some that I already had!









Thought I'd show you guys what's going on with my S3 build! That's the latest stuff, and now to get a replacement radiator as well....

Anyone have a 140.1 they wanna sell? New, preferably? I'll even trade you a brand new 140.2 XT45!









*Appreciate the looks!!!*

Thanks - T


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering if anyone here has used Arctic Cooling F14 fans on low FPI rads?

I am looking at the F14's on XSPC EX280 and EX560 to be precise.

Any input about these fans will be great


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> That is an incredibly tidy setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also what chassis are you using?


the case is a XSPC H2


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Up Date
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4713.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4769.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4807.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4812.jpg.html


Gorgeous!


----------



## jakemfbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> You mean this one?


where do people get the color rings for the Corsair SP120 or do they paint them?


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakemfbacon*
> 
> where do people get the color rings for the Corsair SP120 or do they paint them?


I just painted mine and the Krylon Fusion paint works great.


----------



## jakemfbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> I just painted mine and the Krylon Fusion paint works great.


awesome thank you. How do you like the fans?


----------



## nagle3092

It took 3 days to get here from Italy. Pretty impressed in the shipping speed and build quality so far. I got 2 Alphacool XT45 360s coming tomorrow with more GTs and Im gonna get it put together Monday.

Dont mind the mess of parts laying on my desk.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> [IMG
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1453804/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took 3 days to get here from Italy. Pretty impressed in the shipping speed and build quality so far. I got 2 Alphacool XT45 360s coming tomorrow with more GTs and Im gonna get it put together Monday.
> 
> Dont mind the mess of parts laying on my desk.


That's a lovely bench, who makes it?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakemfbacon*
> 
> awesome thank you. How do you like the fans?


Love 'em. They look great and perform quite well at low rpms.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That's a lovely bench, who makes it?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Dimastech, shipping is steep for the US but after getting it in 3 days and the quality of it I'm very happy.


----------



## wermad

Nice bench









Here's my lowly build


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Dimastech, shipping is steep for the US but after getting it in 3 days and the quality of it I'm very happy.


They look lovely!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Thrasher1016

Any recommendations for a 140.1 radiator?

Thanks - T


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Any recommendations for a 140.1 radiator?
> 
> Thanks - T


depends on the size you want. Look into Alphacool as they have thicknesses in 30, 45, 60, and 86mm.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> hmmmm, Wonder what kind of goodies you have?


This thread needs this.



There. Now that I'm off my phone I can edit this post.


----------



## _REAPER_

So I have now ordered a Monsta 480 and the UT60 480 for my upcoming build I am trying to figure out how many pumps I will need I have 2 655 now but I want to keep good pressure throughout the loop any recommendations or is that enough?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> So I have now ordered a Monsta 480 and the UT60 480 for my upcoming build I am trying to figure out how many pumps I will need I have 2 655 now but I want to keep good pressure throughout the loop any recommendations or is that enough?


2 655 pumps is more than enough, don't worry.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> So I have now ordered a Monsta 480 and the UT60 480 for my upcoming build I am trying to figure out how many pumps I will need I have 2 655 now but I want to keep good pressure throughout the loop any recommendations or is that enough?


*One* ddc: 3x Monsta 480mm, 4x gpu blocks, cpu block, reservoir.











I'm sure your two D5s will have not trouble


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *One* ddc: 3x Monsta 480mm, 4x gpu blocks, cpu block, reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure your two D5s will have not trouble


That is good to know, now all I have to do is wait the 52 days until I leave AFG to get this thing put together


----------



## Red1776

Playing with some light, trying to put the 'holo' in holodeck


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Id go some some acrylic! Just because I just bought some e22 and am going to bend it. You seem seem to be going all out. Id like to see it in your build!


I agree just trying to figure out how to make it look good in my head is all







and with pastel white liquid will look sweet I think!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Up Date
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4713.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4769.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4807.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4812.jpg.html


Just permanently set me on the acrylic tubing now thanks!

Anyone know where I can get quadfire acrylic bridges for 7950's for ek blocks? and thats is serial? Also whats better serial or parallel/difference


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Playing with some light, trying to put the 'holo' in holodeck
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


@Red1776 Looks....









Just kind of bored ATM, so messing with some photos...just adding to the gallery


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Playing with some light, trying to put the 'holo' in holodeck
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Red1776 Looks....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kind of bored ATM, so messing with some photos...just adding to the gallery
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike








So where is this build heading?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Thanks Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So where is this build heading?


Who knows


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Thanks Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So where is this build heading?
> 
> 
> 
> Who knows
Click to expand...

Yeah thats usually how I start LOL


----------



## SoloTwo

Got my Noiseblockers in today and got bored waiting for my 900D...





Sorry for the awful camera phone photos.


----------



## Valgaur

what fans should I use for the monsta rads guys? im currently looking at gelid silent 120mm at 37 cfm and 1000 rpm. major silence and good for the low fpi of the monsta's


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> what fans should I use for the monsta rads guys? im currently looking at gelid silent 120mm at 37 cfm and 1000 rpm. major silence and good for the low fpi of the monsta's


These are tremendous fans for rads. very high pressure 3.5mm H2O+ they really move a lot of air through.

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur%20(R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> These are tremendous fans for rads. very high pressure 3.5mm H2O+ they really move a lot of air through.
> 
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur%20(R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)


arent these the 20 dollar a piece fans? Also I need 16 just for Rads alone then another 8 for the pulling of the air out of the case.

Also guys would anyone care to see a controlling unit for a wooden build called the Master's Box







Which will control Pandora's Box


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> what fans should I use for the monsta rads guys? im currently looking at gelid silent 120mm at 37 cfm and 1000 rpm. major silence and good for the low fpi of the monsta's


I went with NB eLoop fans


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my lowly build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like you may need a bigger case..lol..


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Looks like you may need a bigger case..lol..


He should call it the green goblin


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> 
> Gorgeous!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> 
> I agree just trying to figure out how to make it look good in my head is all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and with pastel white liquid will look sweet I think!
> Just permanently set me on the acrylic tubing now thanks!
> 
> Anyone know where I can get quadfire acrylic bridges for 7950's for ek blocks? and thats is serial? Also whats better serial or parallel/difference


thnaks guys

and the ther is no real difference in performance serial my get you like a 1c-2c cooler tamps but parallel gets you better flow IMO it dos not really mater just do what you like more


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> what fans should I use for the monsta rads guys? im currently looking at gelid silent 120mm at 37 cfm and 1000 rpm. major silence and good for the low fpi of the monsta's
> 
> 
> 
> These are tremendous fans for rads. very high pressure 3.5mm H2O+ they really move a lot of air through.
> 
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur%20(R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)
Click to expand...

No,these fans are not good mate.

The holes round the side are not conducive to performance and.....Coolermaster specs are the most untrustworthy specs attached to a fan.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,these fans are not good mate.
> 
> The holes round the side are not conducive to performance and.....Coolermaster specs are the most untrustworthy specs attached to a fan.


i think he is right IMO get AP 15 with a fan controller
this way you can get really good performance and you can turn tham down whan you want too


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> 
> Gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> 
> I agree just trying to figure out how to make it look good in my head is all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and with pastel white liquid will look sweet I think!
> Just permanently set me on the acrylic tubing now thanks!
> 
> Anyone know where I can get quadfire acrylic bridges for 7950's for ek blocks? and thats is serial? Also whats better serial or parallel/difference
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thnaks guys
> 
> and the ther is no real difference in performance serial my get you like a 1c-2c cooler tamps but parallel gets you better flow IMO it dos not really mater just do what you like more
Click to expand...

I have spent a great deal of time on the subject of parallel vs series and while that may be true (depending on the setup and the great many variables) for cooling a pair of GPU's , running a parallel setup can make a big difference in temps. Such is the case with my setup. It does however take a huge amount of flow to keep the water jacket from developing air pockets. Again, acknowledging that there are a great many variables and I would not claim this as a blanket statement.
Nice setup









@ Valgaur,
they were closer to $30 a copy when i got mine, so yeah...thats gonna add up in a hurry.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> the case is a XSPC H2


Sweet, I'm currently looking at getting an LD PC V8 but I'm pretty sure it wont take a monsta in the top without impeding the mobo









Was really looking forward to getting my hands on some big rads


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> what fans should I use for the monsta rads guys? im currently looking at gelid silent 120mm at 37 cfm and 1000 rpm. major silence and good for the low fpi of the monsta's
> 
> 
> 
> These are tremendous fans for rads. very high pressure 3.5mm H2O+ they really move a lot of air through.
> 
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur%20(R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No,these fans are not good mate.
> 
> The holes round the side are not conducive to performance and.....Coolermaster specs are the most untrustworthy specs attached to a fan.
Click to expand...

I heartily disagree.B. On the identical setup, temps dropped 4c over the Cougars they replaced and the increased air being pulled through was obvious by a large margin. I have tried a number of fans in the building of this setup including Cougars V12HP, Noctua NF-P12, and two Corsair models and have yet to find a better performing fan for radiators without getting into an undesirable noise range.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I have spent a great deal of time on the subject of parallel vs series and while that may be true (depending on the setup and the great many variables) for cooling a pair of GPU's , running a parallel setup can make a big difference in temps. Such is the case with my setup. It does however take a huge amount of flow to keep the water jacket from developing air pockets. Again, acknowledging that there are a great many variables and I would not claim this as a blanket statement.
> Nice setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Valgaur,
> they were closer to $30 a copy when i got mine, so yeah...thats gonna add up in a hurry.


thanks mate








and that is true mate it dos depend on so many variables and the best thing to do is to see what works
for you and your set up
like with my rig didnt see any difrance so i did parallel becuase it looks better IMO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Sweet, I'm currently looking at getting an LD PC V8 but I'm pretty sure it wont take a monsta in the top without impeding the mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was really looking forward to getting my hands on some big rads


i think you can fit a Monsta on top with out impeding on your mobo from waht i see but only with pull or push you cant do push pull IMO


----------



## driftingforlife

You can't fit a MONSTA in the top of a V8.

With a 60MM RAD.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> You can't fit a MONSTA in the top of a V8.
> 
> With a 60MM RAD.


I think you can mate,I have an RX 480 up there and still have a couple of inches to spare to the bottom of my SR2.



Mine is inverted tho.


----------



## wermad

Koolance fan shroud on top of the LD gives you ~30mm of space for that monsta









Here's my "little" Monsta:


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think you can mate,I have an RX 480 up there and still have a couple of inches to spare to the bottom of my SR2.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is inverted tho.


yes i think the inverted gives more room up top


----------



## wonderwall

My build for DotA haha


----------



## Yukss

awesome builds.....


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Here's my "little" Monsta:


so sweet, such a cute little thing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> so sweet, such a cute little thing.


Small package, large punch









Still have yet to see what it does in Surround


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Here's my "little" Monsta:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good werm.







Better get some use out of those cards before you upgrade to the 700 series.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wonderwall*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build for DotA haha
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build!


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Does anyone know if you can fit a bitspower temp sensor stop plug into the drain port on an Iandh stealthres?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can fit a bitspower temp sensor stop plug into the drain port on an Iandh stealthres?


Shouldnt be a problem.


----------



## MiiX

Will a UT60 with 1 fan push or a UT30 with push/pull be better?
Was thinking of using AP-45 if I can get my hands on then


----------



## Lazy Bear

On the subject of monstas, I can fit one in the front of a PC-V7, yes?


----------



## MrYakuZa

Well I have been doing and I'm still doing leak checks. At the moment I have not a wet napkin! xD











Sorry for the quality, is recorded with the Samsung Galaxy S3 and with flashlight on.


----------



## Chomuco

MrYakuZa gogo!! boww(by toxico pc) salu2 !! master...


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> MrYakuZa gogo!! boww(by toxico pc) salu2 !! master...


Hey Chomuco! Wass Up my friend?


----------



## RingingEars

Copper pipes complete, water in, comp working again...


----------



## Rognin

B has access to the facebook account now?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> B has access to the facebook account now?


I do?


----------



## Rognin

Dunno, but this is your thread right?

https://www.facebook.com/overclock.net?hc_location=stream


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Admin linked it,not me mate.


----------



## Valgaur

hmmm so then anybody know where to get a quad parallel EK acrylic bridge then? Also I'm looking into cougars right now as 14 isnt to bad a price for them.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and that is true mate it dos depend on so many variables and the best thing to do is to see what works
> for you and your set up
> like with my rig didnt see any difrance so i did parallel becuase it looks better IMO
> i think you can fit a Monsta on top with out impeding on your mobo from waht i see but only with pull or push you cant do push pull IMO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> You can't fit a MONSTA in the top of a V8.
> 
> With a 60MM RAD.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think you can mate,I have an RX 480 up there and still have a couple of inches to spare to the bottom of my SR2.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is inverted tho.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Koolance fan shroud on top of the LD gives you ~30mm of space for that monsta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my "little" Monsta:


I might just take a look at that shroud then as I am really hoping to use at least 1 monsta for my next build










Thanks for all the input guys, much appreciated


----------



## Jetskyer

Hey guys, just a quick question.

I'm thrown between the following two setups:

180x1 XT45 + AP182 with 120x3 UT60 + eLoop B12-3 and mcp35x
vs
180x3 XT45 + AP182 and dual swiftech D5 (pwm)

They will be cooling 2 GPU's and 3930k at most. Quiet computing is something that's high on my list.
Hope to hear your thoughts!

[edit]
In pure radiator estate the second option gives me 30% more radiator space, but since the 180mm rads are only 45 millimeters thick the difference isn't that large?
I honestly have no clue, it's just some idea I had this week.


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Hey guys, just a quick question.
> 
> I'm thrown between the following two setups:
> 
> 180x1 XT45 + AP182 with 120x3 UT60 + eLoop B12-3 and mcp35x
> vs
> 180x3 XT45 + AP182 and dual swiftech D5 (pwm)
> 
> They will be cooling 2 GPU's and 3930k at most. Quiet computing is something that's high on my list.
> Hope to hear your thoughts!
> 
> [edit]
> In pure radiator estate the second option gives me 30% more radiator space, but since the 180mm rads are only 45 millimeters thick the difference isn't that large?
> I honestly have no clue, it's just some idea I had this week.


Thickness will not play a large role at low RPMs. It will just help flow rates. Go for 180x3!


----------



## The_ocho

my POS got a makeover today, I need to paint that darn psu.

Before,
http://s233.photobucket.com/user/theocho1/media/IMAG0037_zps5aaa8356.jpg.html
After,
http://s233.photobucket.com/user/theocho1/media/IMAG0038_zps5032317f.jpg.html
http://s233.photobucket.com/user/theocho1/media/IMAG0039_zps67c13650.jpg.html
http://s233.photobucket.com/user/theocho1/media/IMAG0041_zps848a0e84.jpg.html


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Looks great other than those zip ties on the tubing. Is that for kinking?


----------



## lowfat

You should try shaping that one piece of tubing w/ the hot water rapid cool bend method. You'd likely be able to get rid of those zip ties.


----------



## The_ocho

Yep zip ties are for the kinking with the tight bend out of the pump. I never knew about the whole heating and cooling thing, Ill look into it. I wonder if it will hold its shape because I have to heat it up again to get it over the barb on the pump.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_ocho*
> 
> Yep zip ties are for the kinking with the tight bend out of the pump. I never knew about the whole heating and cooling thing, Ill look into it. I wonder if it will hold its shape because I have to heat it up again to get it over the barb on the pump.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/lowfats-big-lian-li-16-core-sb-e-gtx680-sli/240_20#post_18579777

You can do way more aggressive bends than this. If you can find springs the proper size they work better than rope as they are easier to slide inside the tubing. The springs I use are meant for bending thin walled copper tubing. Found them for a few bucks at a hardware store.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_ocho*
> 
> my POS got a makeover today, I need to paint that darn psu.
> 
> After,
> http://s233.photobucket.com/user/theocho1/media/IMAG0038_zps5032317f.jpg.html
> 
> MUCH BETTER Nice build


----------



## Stickeelion

Many people think that anti kink coils are ugly but if they are done on every piece of tubing and are done well I think they can look very nice


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Many people think that anti kink coils are ugly but if they are done on every piece of tubing and are done well I think they can look very nice


They need to have nice tight coils though. Stretching out the coils doesn't look near as good.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I dunno, I hate kink coils with a passion...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I dunno, I hate kink coils with a passion...


I agree, also hate when people use a multi-tude of rotary fittings togeather.

There is a fine line not to cross I think. If you want a wow looking rig. IMO


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalbard*
> 
> Thickness will not play a large role at low RPMs. It will just help flow rates. Go for 180x3!


Thanks! Back to the drawing board then


----------



## jokrik

Pretty sure with the right plan and some adapters, there is not coil needed
however a UV reactive build with UV reactive coil does look tempting


----------



## Servos

older:
http://s589.photobucket.com/user/dukenukem_photo/media/IMG_20130414_001702.jpg.html
I donno about uv. I was gonna go that route, but after deciding to go with a asus rive, it just stuck out too much (in the worst way).

Newer, however I still like the anti kink:
http://s589.photobucket.com/user/dukenukem_photo/media/IMG_20130509_102028.jpg.html
http://s589.photobucket.com/user/dukenukem_photo/media/IMG_20130509_102209.jpg.html
http://s589.photobucket.com/user/dukenukem_photo/media/IMG_20130509_102145.jpg.html
I think the stuff looks better when it maches your dye/tubing color.

In the end if I had thicker tubing I probably wouldn't of needed it in some spots.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wonderwall*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build for DotA haha
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I recognize this from the nvidia contest in Bangkok last month








I entered with the Titan SLI build.. we did not win.

Can't believe that car pc with a celeron placed second...










The winner of the contest had a massive kink. I guess that doesn't mean anything.


Nice build you got there, nevertheless


----------



## joejoe69

Just went SLI with Bitspower VG-NGTX680 waterblocks on my Gigabyte Winforce OC GTX 670s.
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1741_zps94ad9215.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1742_zpscf7b7365.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1743_zpse117aeb4.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1744_zps2f38d7d8.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1740_zps9e4d0d05.jpg.html


----------



## fnyk

Hey guys i need som help to a new name for my next custom watercooling build
I have 4 times 3Dmark advanced worth 20$ for the top 4 name's that i like if it's something that you guys want

Let mé know the name's that you guys Will Call it

Its going to have a rampage 4 gene in a corsair 350d with some internal and external rad's Dual loops with some vpp655 pumps
The only defreance from the vpp655 and the mcp655 is thats a 1500l pump and Not a 1200l pump

Pm me with the name's

Thanks


----------



## fnyk




----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> Well I have been doing and I'm still doing leak checks. At the moment I have not a wet napkin! xD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the quality, is recorded with the Samsung Galaxy S3 and with flashlight on.


Nice build ! Why did u mount ur res on ur rad? U have so much more room in the drive bays area for stuff


----------



## THC Butterz

Clean water is good water... summers coming up so i figured i would get a few supplies

In the next several weeks, im planing on getting Compression fittings, a bunch of 90 degree fittings to square up my loop, new tubing and probably either a second pump or a 24v adapter for my D5 to compensate for the restriction of the 12 to 15, 90 degree fittings im going to be using,


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Hey guys i need som help to a new name for my next custom watercooling build
> I have 4 times 3Dmark advanced worth 20$ for the top 4 name's that i like if it's something that you guys want
> 
> Let mé know the name's that you guys Will Call it
> 
> Its going to have a rampage 4 gene in a corsair 350d with some internal and external rad's Dual loops with some vpp655 pumps
> The only defreance from the vpp655 and the mcp655 is thats a 1500l pump and Not a 1200l pump
> 
> Pm me with the name's
> 
> Thanks


"The Humble Brag"

"I Should've Gone Phase Change..."

"Bursting at the Seams"


----------



## lowfat

I don't think you want to use copper sulphate when using dyes. It can affect the ph of the coolant and may cause the dyes to breakdown.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Hey guys i need som help to a new name for my next custom watercooling build
> I have 4 times 3Dmark advanced worth 20$ for the top 4 name's that i like if it's something that you guys want
> 
> Let mé know the name's that you guys Will Call it
> 
> Its going to have a rampage 4 gene in a corsair 350d with some internal and external rad's Dual loops with some vpp655 pumps
> The only defreance from the vpp655 and the mcp655 is thats a 1500l pump and Not a 1200l pump
> 
> Pm me with the name's
> 
> Thanks


Dave,My mate down the Pub.

A.S.S.H.A.T

Ron Jeremy

Classic names that i have toyed with in the past,maybe you can make it a reality........


----------



## fnyk

Just a thing that can help you guy's i hope
the color's og the tubing is clear and the res's are to but im going to have a red loop and a blue loop
the red for my gpu/gpu's stands for the amd card's with led's in the blocks
the blue loop is for my cpu and ram loop and that stands for intel

im going to have noiseblocker black silent pro pl-1 for the external rad's and aerocool red shark all on the inside
even in the psu

the color theme for the build is red,blue and black with a little bit of silver

and the former name from my other personal builds was fnyk and madtower
but this time i wanted to try a new name for a build and had some 3Dmark laying thay i wanted to give to people as a thanks for the name with the name

p.s. im going to pant the name of the pc on the case and the one that came up with the name

it can be the real name or the tag name ther is comming on it that is all up to the winner


----------



## Seredin

I small update. More can be found in my build log in my sig.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys just an update from my build log. Leak testing is done and I just have to wait for my cable sleeving to be done. Then I can tear everything apart in a month when I put in three more rads and my GPU blocks haha. More can be found in the build log in my sig.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Just went SLI with Bitspower VG-NGTX680 waterblocks on my Gigabyte Winforce OC GTX 670s.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1741_zps94ad9215.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1742_zpscf7b7365.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1743_zpse117aeb4.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1744_zps2f38d7d8.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1740_zps9e4d0d05.jpg.html


This is amazing. Great work!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Just went SLI with Bitspower VG-NGTX680 waterblocks on my Gigabyte Winforce OC GTX 670s.
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1740_zps9e4d0d05.jpg.html


nice clean build mate love the cable management good job


----------



## NinjaSushi2

The only thing i can think of that is red, blue, and black is spiderman.

*troll face* (now everyone googles spiderman just to be sure.)


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I want to take apart my EK Supreme LTX block and clean it with a toothbrush because there is some calcium build up inside, but I'm a little worried. Is there anything that I should know before doing this? I've never opened a block before. I'm afraid that the gaskets will be fragile or have to be tightened with a certain amount of pressure. Is there any tips anyone could give me or a tutorial someone could link me to? Or am I over thinking it?


----------



## KaRLiToS

There is nothing to worry about when dissassembling a waterblock.


The only thing you need to pay attention is the gasket when you put it back. It can take a while but on a CPU block it is very easy. It is not like on a GPU block where it is a long gasket.
Also, if you decide to wash the gasket, be careful not to stretch it.
When you put back the screws on the block, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them in case you strip the allen hole, you won't strip the threads, but it will strip the allen socket, so you will have hard time dissassembling the block again.
A good tip not to overtighten them is to use the allen key vertically instead of horizontally. You have less torque using it vertically.

*PS*: What I do to check if the blocks are well sealed: It is a bit ******* method but it is perfect.

I put fittings on the block and suck the air and stick my tongue on the fitting and a finger on the other fitting and hold the suction for a minute.
If the suction remains, then the block is perfectly sealed.

You can also use a low pressure compressor for this with proper fitting and a guage but it is more expensive.

I do the same method sometime to check if my rotary fittings has some leak and if they do have leak, the suction will not remain after 10 seconds.


----------



## lowfat

It really isn't hard to put a CPU block back together. I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## Kast

http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/Kast87/media/DSC00477_zps1dc2cb4f.jpg.html
http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/Kast87/media/DSC00479_zpsaf852375.jpg.html


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Great build!







Though I really can't stand those CPU blocks, but that's me.


----------



## PedroC1999

^^^ Why dont you watercool your flash drive?

Nice rig though!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Just went SLI with Bitspower VG-NGTX680 waterblocks on my Gigabyte Winforce OC GTX 670s.
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1741_zps94ad9215.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1742_zpscf7b7365.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1743_zpse117aeb4.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1744_zps2f38d7d8.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1740_zps9e4d0d05.jpg.html


Looks awesome! Love the coolant and the cable sewing!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I small update. More can be found in my build log in my sig.


Hmmm... something about that GPU doesn't fit...







Looks great by the way!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> ^^^ Why dont you watercool your flash drive?
> 
> Nice rig though!


Lawl. Hahahahahahahaha. I've had two flash drives die on me in the last month and both times I forgot to backup the data.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hmmm... something about that GPU doesn't fit...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great by the way!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


It's not staying for long, Jeff








I'll be replacing it with this

which I think matches the theme perfectly.


----------



## golfergolfer

Hi Everyone,

I am going to be flushing out my entire loop and I was just wonder what is the best way to do it? I have heard of boiling water?

I will also need to flush out my pump how shall I do this? What I was thinking of doing was:
running some warm tap through the entire loop (including pump) just to rinse it out
Then take some hot water through the rads then a rinse with distilled everywhere?

Thanks


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Just went SLI with Bitspower VG-NGTX680 waterblocks on my Gigabyte Winforce OC GTX 670s.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1741_zps94ad9215.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1742_zpscf7b7365.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1743_zpse117aeb4.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1744_zps2f38d7d8.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1740_zps9e4d0d05.jpg.html


Great looking build, everything works very well together.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I small update. More can be found in my build log in my sig.


Super clean...definitely gonna check out more in your log.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kast*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/Kast87/media/DSC00477_zps1dc2cb4f.jpg.html
> http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/Kast87/media/DSC00479_zpsaf852375.jpg.html


Stufing two 360's and a 120 in there, great work.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

This is what i sow when i opened my EK Block.


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## GoLDii3

May i ask a quick question so i don't have to open a new thread?

Do you think a XSPC RX120 will be enough to cool a 7870?


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> This is what i sow when i opened my EK Block.


dont tell me that its a copper base and you was useing ek blue or red coolend


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> This is what i sow when i opened my EK Block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What tubing were you using? A tooth brush and some metal polish should clean that up nicely.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> May i ask a quick question so i don't have to open a new thread?
> 
> Do you think a XSPC RX120 will be enough to cool a 7870?


if its only the 7870 then i say go for it but if you are getting the cpu in that look then i will say a biggere or tigger rad


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What tubing were you using? A tooth brush and some metal polish should clean that up nicely.


and flush the rad will help to ^^


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *PS*: What I do to check if the blocks are well sealed: It is a bit ******* method but it is perfect.
> 
> I put fittings on the block and *suck* the air and *stick my tongue* on the fitting and a finger on the other fitting and hold the suction for a minute.
> If the suction remains, then the block is perfectly sealed.


How do you come up with such method?
I am curious








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I am going to be flushing out my entire loop and I was just wonder what is the best way to do it? I have heard of boiling water?
> 
> I will also need to flush out my pump how shall I do this? What I was thinking of doing was:
> running some warm tap through the entire loop (including pump) just to rinse it out
> Then take some hot water through the rads then a rinse with distilled everywhere?
> 
> Thanks


Pretty sure you dont need it warm or hot,
what I usually do is flush it a couple of times withtap water, by couple of times means flush it until the drained water is pretty clear than the last two flush I would use a DI water


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> dont tell me that its a copper base and you was useing ek blue or red coolend


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What tubing were you using? A tooth brush and some metal polish should clean that up nicely.


I used Feser Tube. The Block was like that because i bough it used. I tried to clean it with Lemon Juice and Ketchup. Did not try Metal Polish though. I think most of the stuff is probably from dust that got in when the cap on the Res was open.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I used Feser Tube. The Block was like that because i bough it used. I tried to clean it with Lemon Juice and Ketchup. Did not try Metal Polish though. I think most of the stuff is probably from dust that got in when the cap on the Res was open.


som of it was gunk from the rad it self
know that from personal experiens


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*


This.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Pretty sure you dont need it warm or hot,
> what I usually do is flush it a couple of times withtap water, by couple of times means flush it until the drained water is pretty clear than the last two flush I would use a DI water


Thanks! I will try something along these lines. Can you run tap water through the pump? Just have to flush it out afterwards right?


----------



## Dzuks

Great build... Love the cable sewing... How did you manage that?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Just went SLI with Bitspower VG-NGTX680 waterblocks on my Gigabyte Winforce OC GTX 670s.
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1741_zps94ad9215.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1742_zpscf7b7365.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1743_zpse117aeb4.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1744_zps2f38d7d8.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1740_zps9e4d0d05.jpg.html


----------



## d3vour3r

my old motherboard died and got a new asus rampage iv formula. very nice board, looks cool, and ive got a stable overclock on my 3930k of [email protected]

NOTE in this pic i had my 2nd gpu in the PCIE 2 slot which is only 8x and was cause issues in game. i have since moved it to the pcie 3 slot which is 16x and everything is running beautifully.

PITA changing mobos on a fully watercooled build btw.... check my build log in sig for how i did it if interested.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> There is nothing to worry about when dissassembling a waterblock.
> 
> 
> The only thing you need to pay attention is the gasket when you put it back. It can take a while but on a CPU block it is very easy. It is not like on a GPU block where it is a long gasket.
> Also, if you decide to wash the gasket, be careful not to stretch it.
> When you put back the screws on the block, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them in case you strip the allen hole, you won't strip the threads, but it will strip the allen socket, so you will have hard time dissassembling the block again.
> A good tip not to overtighten them is to use the allen key vertically instead of horizontally. You have less torque using it vertically.
> 
> *PS*: What I do to check if the blocks are well sealed: It is a bit ******* method but it is perfect.
> 
> I put fittings on the block and suck the air and stick my tongue on the fitting and a finger on the other fitting and hold the suction for a minute.
> If the suction remains, then the block is perfectly sealed.
> 
> You can also use a low pressure compressor for this with proper fitting and a guage but it is more expensive.
> 
> I do the same method sometime to check if my rotary fittings has some leak and if they do have leak, the suction will not remain after 10 seconds.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It really isn't hard to put a CPU block back together. I wouldn't worry about it.


Alright thanks a lot guys. I will do it. I just don't like jumping into things without knowing what I'm getting in to.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys so I just held a flashlight up to my res and







all over the place.

I was wondering if there is a certain way to add an LED to my res so it can be lit up like that.
I have this:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html

Thanks!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys so I just held a flashlight up to my res and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all over the place.
> 
> I was wondering if there is a certain way to add an LED to my res so it can be lit up like that.
> I have this:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html
> 
> Thanks!


Hey,
Put an LED light right up against an ex[posed edge of the acrylic res. The light travels within the confines of the scrylic and bounces off the inside surface and will continue to the edges.

Thats not put the most eloquently, but I hope you get the idea. you can PM me if you want some better pics.

If you look closely you can see the external blue LED on the bottom right of the res. It is mounted to an exposed edge and the effect described happens. You can also get a clear bottom plug for your res as well with a 5mm hole for an bare LED light. (see Bitspower res's)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys so I just held a flashlight up to my res and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all over the place.
> 
> I was wondering if there is a certain way to add an LED to my res so it can be lit up like that.
> I have this:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html
> 
> Thanks!


While not exactly an led, this is a lot brighter.

Now that PPC's has the E22 tubing, you won't need to bore the fittings for 1/2" which saves a lot of work, and makes the mod doable for almost anyone. . . . so just skip past that part of the discussion

Just pick a ccfl tube the right length for your particular res, the color you want and some E22 acrylic tube.

From my build log:

I thought I'd walk you all thru the light tube mod, so that you could do it for yourself if you wanted.

It's not too hard, but it's water and high voltage electricity, so take your time and test before you put a CCFL tube in and turn it on.

Essentially, I'll be putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.

My reservoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical reservoirs, or shorter ones.

Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.

Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.

I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.

To give an idea to the newcomers, of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:



And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:



Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:

The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube until it fits in the fitting.

I opted for my own method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.

I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original o rings, which makes for a fit like a watermelon in a canary's butt.

I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the o rings hold the tube captive.

Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amount of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.

I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swapping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.

Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:



Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:



Here's all the parts layed out:



Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:



Tube end beveled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:



Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:



Partially assembled:



Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:



And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:





Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,

Darlene


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Thanks! I will try something along these lines. Can you run tap water through the pump? Just have to flush it out afterwards right?


pretty sure you can,
water cooling imho doesnt really need special treatment to the point that it becomes frustating
what I usually do is to clean everything normally with tap water, rewash it with DI water
this way whatever coolant you'll bee using will not get mix up with all those minerals from tap water which can end you up with gunks etc
I know coolant has premix stuff which kill all those thing but just to play it safe


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys so I just held a flashlight up to my res and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all over the place.
> 
> I was wondering if there is a certain way to add an LED to my res so it can be lit up like that.
> I have this:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> While not exactly an led, this is a lot brighter.
> 
> Now that PPC's has the E22 tubing, you won't need to bore the fittings for 1/2" which saves a lot of work, and makes the mod doable for almost anyone. . . . so just skip past that part of the discussion
> 
> Just pick a ccfl tube the right length for your particular res, the color you want and some E22 acrylic tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> From my build log:
> 
> I thought I'd walk you all thru the light tube mod, so that you could do it for yourself if you wanted.
> 
> It's not too hard, but it's water and high voltage electricity, so take your time and test before you put a CCFL tube in and turn it on.
> 
> Essentially, I'll be putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.
> 
> My reservoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical reservoirs, or shorter ones.
> 
> Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.
> 
> Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.
> 
> I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.
> 
> To give an idea to the newcomers, of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:
> 
> 
> 
> Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:
> 
> The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube until it fits in the fitting.
> 
> I opted for my own method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.
> 
> I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original o rings, which makes for a fit like a watermelon in a canary's butt.
> 
> I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the o rings hold the tube captive.
> 
> Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amount of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.
> 
> I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swapping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.
> 
> Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts layed out:
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:
> 
> 
> 
> Tube end beveled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> Partially assembled:
> 
> 
> 
> Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I just started working on this mod, thanks for posting this


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> While not exactly an led, this is a lot brighter.
> 
> Now that PPC's has the E22 tubing, you won't need to bore the fittings for 1/2" which saves a lot of work, and makes the mod doable for almost anyone. . . . so just skip past that part of the discussion
> 
> Just pick a ccfl tube the right length for your particular res, the color you want and some E22 acrylic tube.
> 
> From my build log:
> 
> I thought I'd walk you all thru the light tube mod, so that you could do it for yourself if you wanted.
> 
> It's not too hard, but it's water and high voltage electricity, so take your time and test before you put a CCFL tube in and turn it on.
> 
> Essentially, I'll be putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.
> 
> My reservoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical reservoirs, or shorter ones.
> 
> Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.
> 
> Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.
> 
> I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.
> 
> To give an idea to the newcomers, of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:
> 
> 
> 
> Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:
> 
> The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube until it fits in the fitting.
> 
> I opted for my own method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.
> 
> I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original o rings, which makes for a fit like a watermelon in a canary's butt.
> 
> I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the o rings hold the tube captive.
> 
> Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amount of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.
> 
> I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swapping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.
> 
> Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts layed out:
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:
> 
> 
> 
> Tube end beveled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> Partially assembled:
> 
> 
> 
> Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,
> 
> Darlene


Holy crap that is amazing. I might just have to do something like that myself. You really do incredible work!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Darlene's BP res mod with the CCFL is exactly the kind of look I'm looking for in my next build. Does anybody know if there are any reservoirs like that for sale rather than having to DIY?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Darlene's username should be DIY Diva


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Darlene's BP res mod with the CCFL is exactly the kind of look I'm looking for in my next build. Does anybody know if there are any reservoirs like that for sale rather than having to DIY?


I'm pretty sure FrozenQ makes a res like that


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> pretty sure you can,
> water cooling imho doesnt really need special treatment to the point that it becomes frustating
> what I usually do is to clean everything normally with tap water, rewash it with DI water
> this way whatever coolant you'll bee using will not get mix up with all those minerals from tap water which can end you up with gunks etc
> I know coolant has premix stuff which kill all those thing but just to play it safe


This is what I will do then just use some good ole tap water then rinse with DI water!
Rep+ for the help!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> While not exactly an led, this is a lot brighter.
> 
> Now that PPC's has the E22 tubing, you won't need to bore the fittings for 1/2" which saves a lot of work, and makes the mod doable for almost anyone. . . . so just skip past that part of the discussion
> 
> Just pick a ccfl tube the right length for your particular res, the color you want and some E22 acrylic tube.
> 
> From my build log:
> 
> I thought I'd walk you all thru the light tube mod, so that you could do it for yourself if you wanted.
> 
> It's not too hard, but it's water and high voltage electricity, so take your time and test before you put a CCFL tube in and turn it on.
> 
> Essentially, I'll be putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.
> 
> My reservoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical reservoirs, or shorter ones.
> 
> Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.
> 
> Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.
> 
> I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.
> 
> To give an idea to the newcomers, of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:
> 
> 
> 
> Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:
> 
> The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube until it fits in the fitting.
> 
> I opted for my own method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.
> 
> I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original o rings, which makes for a fit like a watermelon in a canary's butt.
> 
> I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the o rings hold the tube captive.
> 
> Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amount of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.
> 
> I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swapping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.
> 
> Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts layed out:
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:
> 
> 
> 
> Tube end beveled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> Partially assembled:
> 
> 
> 
> Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,
> 
> Darlene


This is really cool! I do also believe FrozenQ makes a res like this but Wow I never thought about doing it this style!


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Nice build ! Why did u mount ur res on ur rad? U have so much more room in the drive bays area for stuff


Moltes Gràcies!
In version 1.0 of the TJ11, I had 3 optical drives, hdds ......., now I want to have the front cleaner and better than the previous temperatures.

We're organizing cables.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Darlene's BP res mod with the CCFL is exactly the kind of look I'm looking for in my next build. Does anybody know if there are any reservoirs like that for sale rather than having to DIY?


The new XSPC res have a glow tube in them


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The new XSPC res have a glow tube in them


Can't wait for them to hit Australia


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Every time I see a TJ11 build I get a nerdgasm. haha.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> This is what i sow when i opened my EK Block.


Most likely leeched plasticizer from your tubing. Replace your tubing!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Just went SLI with Bitspower VG-NGTX680 waterblocks on my Gigabyte Winforce OC GTX 670s.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1741_zps94ad9215.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1742_zpscf7b7365.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1743_zpse117aeb4.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1744_zps2f38d7d8.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1740_zps9e4d0d05.jpg.html


This is an awesome build. Really like what you did with the cables and the way you routed the tubes. Nice work!


----------



## macandy13

Darlene that is one pretty sweet mod









Would give it a go but I don't have the proper equipment for it


----------



## Thrasher1016

YO!









Ya'll have any recommendations for 140mm fans that aren't PWM?
I'm using a Lamptron CW611 watercooling controller for my new S3 build, and these are my only requirements:

1. HIGH, HIGH, HIGHER, HIGHEST static pressure
2. All black

Thanks - T


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> YO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya'll have any recommendations for 140mm fans that aren't PWM?
> I'm using a Lamptron CW611 watercooling controller for my new S3 build, and these are my only requirements:
> 
> 1. HIGH, HIGH, HIGHER, HIGHEST static pressure
> 2. All black
> 
> Thanks - T


Check the Aircooling forum for fan recommendations.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Check the Aircooling forum for fan recommendations.


I'll do that, I just didn't know if any watercooling experts had any major likes or dislikes regarding radiator fans.

Thanks - T


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> YO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya'll have any recommendations for 140mm fans that aren't PWM?
> I'm using a Lamptron CW611 watercooling controller for my new S3 build, and these are my only requirements:
> 
> 1. HIGH, HIGH, HIGHER, HIGHEST static pressure
> 2. All black
> 
> Thanks - T


I Will say some Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-2 or with som higer h2o the PK-3


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dat looks good.









I generally don't like Case Labs but their ITX and MATX cases aren't half bad.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Come onnnn.....
now you make me drool for some caselabs love
just like what you did with your switch in the past...

must... resist.... temptation... so... harrdd....


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Looks nice PCModderMike, nice day too!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Dat looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I generally don't like Case Labs but their ITX and MATX cases aren't half bad.


Yea I'm not a big of their mammoth stuff either...but this SM5 hit the sweet spot for me. Thanks for the compliment.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Come onnnn.....
> now you make me drool for some caselabs love
> just like what you did with your switch in the past...
> 
> must... resist.... temptation... so... harrdd....










With all that work you put into your Switch, I would say stick to it....*but*, I have a feeling you would love a CaseLabs case.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Looks nice PCModderMike, nice day too!


Thank you....and yea the weather is starting to get real nice lately, love it.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Great rig Mike









Can someone tell me which colored tubing to pick these days, one without Plasticizers?

What about the new PrimoChill Advanced LRT?


----------



## PCModderMike

Thanks KaRLiToS.
I'm using the new Primochill LRT Advanced for this latest build...supposedly they have resolved their plasticizer issues.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Thanks man, + rep, I will be using it because I think my CPU block must look like ZealotKiller one.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I'll do that, I just didn't know if any watercooling experts had any major likes or dislikes regarding radiator fans.
> 
> Thanks - T


I like my NB PK-3's...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> YO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya'll have any recommendations for 140mm fans that aren't PWM?
> I'm using a Lamptron CW611 watercooling controller for my new S3 build, and these are my only requirements:
> 
> 1. HIGH, HIGH, HIGHER, HIGHEST static pressure
> 2. All black
> 
> Thanks - T


What radiator are you using?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What radiator are you using?


The radiator in question is a 140.1 Alphacool XT45, going in the top drop-in mount of my S3, next to an intake fan.
The two fans I want recommendations on will be the push / pulls on that radiator.
The other radiator in my loop is a 120.2 Alphacool XT45 with twin Bitfenix Spectre Pros in push only.

This rig will not see anything beyond 4.0 OC on the 2500k chip in it for the immediate term, and the 7950 HD (under a Komodo) will see only a mild OC as well.









Thanks - T


----------



## strong island 1

I had a major liquid explosion last night.

I spent 15hrs yesterday re-doing my entire loop in my STH10. A major over haul. I changed all tubing and routing and added another rad and 400ml res.

I started filling the EK 400ml res and I started the pump and it emptied the res a couple times and everything started filling up. I kept repeating the process to fill the loop.

I got about done with the 2nd bottle of coolant and something backed up into the reservoir when I started the pump and all the coolant exploded out of the top of the res. This was while the pump was running so I didn't fill it too high.

I always fill the res, start the pump, let it empty and shut the pump down and repeat the process,

Could you imagine EK blood red coolant all over the interior of a matte white sth10.

I have no clue what even survived yet, because I had work really early today. I might have lost 2 titans.

I couldn't believe that was the end result of 15hrs of work.

What would make the res explode out the top like that. I didn't have the top on which I figured was ok while filling up.

Should I have kept the top of the res on while starting the pump. I always leave the tops off at the beginning to bleed the loop and for filling and toping off.

I am so upset right now.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

OMG that is terrible! Hopefully you were just running power to the pump when it happened right? I usually leave one hole open in the top of my res when filling as well and have never had anything like that happen. Maybe somebody else knows what could cause that? Sorry man!


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I had a major liquid explosion last night.
> 
> I spent 15hrs yesterday re-doing my entire loop in my STH10. A major over haul. I changed all tubing and routing and added another rad and 400ml res.
> 
> I started filling the EK 400ml res and I started the pump and it emptied the res a couple times and everything started filling up. I kept repeating the process to fill the loop.
> 
> I got about done with the 2nd bottle of coolant and something backed up into the reservoir when I started the pump and all the coolant exploded out of the top of the res. This was while the pump was running so I didn't fill it too high.
> 
> I always fill the res, start the pump, let it empty and shut the pump down and repeat the process,
> 
> Could you imagine EK blood red coolant all over the interior of a matte white sth10.
> 
> I have no clue what even survived yet, because I had work really early today. I might have lost 2 titans.
> 
> I couldn't believe that was the end result of 15hrs of work.
> 
> What would make the res explode out the top like that. I didn't have the top on which I figured was ok while filling up.
> 
> Should I have kept the top of the res on while starting the pump. I always leave the tops off at the beginning to bleed the loop and for filling and toping off.
> 
> I am so upset right now.


Yeah that sucks









When i was filing my loop for the first time i got the same stuff all over my cream carpet, I've learned since then to fill my system in the kitchen or outside :L

Hope you haven't caused those titans to die either, that would be a real bummer


----------



## strong island 1

The EK res has a screw on top and then another g 1/4 hole in the middle. I had to fill it with a tube and funnel because it barely fits in the sth10.

So when I was filling it I didn't have the screw on top on. I still dont think it should have exploded like that. It really was like an eruption.

I couldn't figure out how to jump my power supply because all the wires are the same color so I had power running to my mobo also, but I had my titans unplugged and the pci lanes shut off, so I am hoping they are ok.

I am so upset right now. It was the worst feeling I ever had.

I didn't realize how complicated my loop has gotten. With 3 monsta rads, 2 pumps, mobo blocks, cpu block and gpu blocks and 400ml res and a ton of right angle fittings, it took forever to get it all installed yesterday.

It gets a little hard with so many components.


----------



## illuz

Hope everything is alright and you find the problem, that sucks and got me quite scared to do my first loop. Hope to god those Titans are alright, I'd be distraught if I lost a 670 let alone 2 Titans.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> Hope everything is alright and you find the problem, that sucks and got me quite scared to do my first loop. Hope to god those Titans are alright, I'd be distraught if I lost a 670 let alone 2 Titans.


Thanks, I really wanted to call in sick today but I had to be at work so early that I couldn't even test them yet.

I am pretty sure they are ok. I had paper towels on top of them just in case the mobo block leaked and when the res exploded the paper towels got soaked so if they weren't there it would have been bad.

I should have screwed the top on the res each time I started the pump. So even if it did explode there would have been only a g1/4 opening instead of the whole res open.

It was so dramatic because the EK blood red coolant looks crazy against the all white case. It was a disaster.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That's why I bought a cheap Cooler Master 500W PSU to use just for odds and ends like filling loops. $40 well spent IMO...


----------



## tiborrr12

This sucks big time. Did you had the reservoir connected to the suction side of the pump (i.e. the reservoir was feeding the pump's inlet)?

I cannot even imagine how a res could explode while it is connected to the low pressure side. The only thing It could do is to implode, not explode. I'd understand if it was connected to the high side of the pump (pressure port) but this....


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's why I bought a cheap Cooler Master 500W PSU to use just for odds and ends like filling loops. $40 well spent IMO...


Thats a good idea. I may do that.

I also spent a lot of money on all white cables for my psu and now they are all dyed pink from the coolant.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I also spent a lot of money on all white cables for my psu and now they are all dyed pink from the coolant.


Dye them white in bleach!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

This sounds like just a complete disaster. Sucks man! I hope I never have an issue like this, I'd probably need a padded room...


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> This sucks big time. Did you had the reservoir connected to the suction side of the pump (i.e. the reservoir was feeding the pump's inlet)?
> 
> I cannot even imagine how a res could explode while it is connected to the low pressure side. The only thing It could do is to implode, not explode. I'd understand if it was connected to the high side of the pump (pressure port) but this....


yes the reservoir was definitely feeding the pump correctly. I have re-done my loops so many times and nothing like this has ever happened.

Does it matter what inlets and outlets I am using on the reservoir. if the res is facing you I am using the 2 on the left side. The one in the back left is feeding the pump and the one in the front left is the return to the reservoir.

Is that ok to use the res that way.

When I say explode I mean it was like something caused the coolant to almost like errupt and fly out the top of the res and then it hit the ceiling of the case and went everywhere, My white shirt was covered in it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sounds bad.....could be debris in a block maybe?
was the loop full and running or was this during the fill?



Magoo is thinking about it and will get back to you


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> yes the reservoir was definitely feeding the pump correctly. I have re-done my loops so many times and nothing like this has ever happened.
> 
> Does it matter what inlets and outlets I am using on the reservoir. if the res is facing you I am using the 2 on the left side. The one in the back left is feeding the pump and the one in the front left is the return to the reservoir.
> 
> Is that ok to use the res that way.
> 
> When I say explode I mean it was like something caused the coolant to almost like errupt and fly out the top of the res and then it hit the ceiling of the case and went everywhere, My white shirt was covered in it.


The only thing I can think of that would possibly cause that would be back-pressure from your loop somehow pushing through your pump and into your reservoir. This could happen if the gasket on your pump failed. That's about the only think I could think of that would cause that. I'm really sorry to hear about this and hopefully when you check your Titans they'll be OK.


----------



## strong island 1

Also it wasn't like the coolant level in the res kept rising and just spilled over.

The level was pretty low and it was almost like a huge air pocket like exploded the coolant out the top.

I can't explain it. I have no clue what happened.

it was 3 in the morning so when I get home maybe I will find something I did wrong but I spent 15hours straight making sure evrything was perfect.

It was so crazy because right before it happened. I straightened every wire and completely cleaned the entire case removing every speck of dust and cleaning all marks on the case.

The next thing you know, blood red coolant evrywhere.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Also it wasn't like the coolant level in the res kept rising and just spilled over.
> 
> The level was pretty low and it was almost *like a huge air pocket like exploded the coolant out the top.*
> 
> I can't explain it. I have no clue what happened.
> 
> it was 3 in the morning so when I get home maybe I will find something I did wrong but I spent 15hours straight making sure evrything was perfect.
> 
> It was so crazy because right before it happened. I straightened every wire and completely cleaned the entire case removing every speck of dust and cleaning all marks on the case.
> 
> The next thing you know, blood red coolant evrywhere.


You have answered yourself right there i think.......


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds bad.....could be debris in a block maybe?
> was the loop full and running or was this during the fill?
> 
> Magoo is thinking about it and will get back to you


yes it was while I was filling. I had been running my loop for about a month and then decided to change the tubing to clear with red coolant. I also added the 400ml res and another rad and changed the entire tube routing. I basically rebuilt the enitre computer and changed everything. I removed all blocks and cleaned them with a tooth brush so I know nothing was stuck in them.

I filled the res and ran the pump until it emptied and then I shut the pump down and repeat the process. I got thru about 2 bottles of coolant and everything filled ok. I emptied the second bottle into the res and started the pump again and it sucked about half the coolant down and thats when it errupted.

Could it have been a big pocket of air was forced into the res and caused this.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have answered yourself right there i think.......


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds bad.....could be debris in a block maybe?
> was the loop full and running or was this during the fill?
> 
> Magoo is thinking about it and will get back to you
> 
> 
> 
> yes it was while I was filling. I had been running my loop for about a month and then decided to change the tubing to clear with red coolant. I also added the 400ml res and another rad and changed the entire tube routing. I basically rebuilt the enitre computer and changed everything. I removed all blocks and cleaned them with a tooth brush so I know nothing was stuck in them.
> 
> I filled the res and ran the pump until it emptied and then I shut the pump down and repeat the process. I got thru about 2 bottles of coolant and everything filled ok. I emptied the second bottle into the res and started the pump again and it sucked about half the coolant down and thats when it errupted.
> 
> Could it have been a big pocket of air was forced into the res and caused this.
Click to expand...

It always gushes like that when the return feed hits the res and you have a low fluid level.

Always leave the res half full when filling,cuts down on air potentially being pulled in.


----------



## strong island 1

I guess it was dumb to leave the top off but this has never happened to me before.

I'm no expert but I have been watercooling for about a year and I have a pretty complicated loop that was running perfectly, but I just never planned for something like this to happen.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It always gushes like that when the return feed hits the res and you have a low fluid level.
> 
> Always leave the res half full when filling,cuts down on air potentially being pulled in.


But this was different than a little gushing. I would say the res was about half full. It's a 400ml res so that's a lot of coolant.

Just imagine the computer was on my desk and my shirt ended up being covered in coolant.

If the res was really low it is so tall that it would have been very hard for this kind of mess to happen.

To be honest it happened so fast that I can't remeber how full the res was but I know it was more than half when it happened.

You wouldn't believe how much coolant there was everywhere. I wish I took a picture but after that happened I was not running for the camera.


----------



## GhostDog99

Did you see any smok or spark from Mobo or GPUs ?
If not I think every thing will be ok just dry every thing with a hear dryer and lat it be for
24 to 48 and only than tray too see if it works


----------



## strong island 1

Sorry to post so much but I had to tell you guys about this.

Nobody else really understands but you guys. I tell people at work or my family and they just don't really get how horrible it is. I know all you guys and gals understand.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Did you see any smok or spark from Mobo or GPUs ?
> If not I think every thing will be ok just dry every thing with a hear dryer and lat it be for
> 24 to 48 and only than tray too see if it works


No sparks and I had my pci lanes shut off. I am pretty sure most of the components survived.

The real thing that sucks is the coolant got in every crack and opening of my Matte White STH10. I am praying the coolant doesn't hurt the paint. I am going to have to take the entire case apart to clean it properly.


----------



## subsven

I had an SLI bridge fitting leak and get coolant onto the actual GPU of my 670 FTW. I didn't realize it until my display started looking like I was trying to play an old dirty NES cartridge and then wouldn't boot. Tore it down, pulled the blocks and found the water on the actual GPU itself. Freaked out a bit, dried everything off, put it back together and it was like it never happened. As a matter of fact, that card runs at almost +400 MHz from the stock base clock for hours with no issues. As long as you don't see anything that looks burnt and didn't hear anything pop or sizzle you should be fine once you clean and dry everything off, just make sure to take the time and do it right, and next time hook up a piece of tubing to one of the extra inlets on the res and fill it that way with a funnel or a large syringe like I use.







I also like to pull a quick disconnect and suck or blow to bleed most of the loop before I start the pump, but that's just me, ymmv.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> I had an SLI bridge fitting leak and get coolant onto the actual GPU of my 670 FTW. I didn't realize it until my display started looking like I was trying to play an old dirty NES cartridge and then wouldn't boot. Tore it down, pulled the blocks and found the water on the actual GPU itself. Freaked out a bit, dried everything off, put it back together and it was like it never happened. As a matter of fact, that card runs at almost +400 MHz from the stock base clock for hours with no issues. As long as you don't see anything that looks burnt and didn't hear anything pop or sizzle you should be fine once you clean and dry everything off, just make sure to take the time and do it right, and next time hook up a piece of tubing to one of the extra inlets on the res and fill it that way with a funnel or a large syringe like I use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also like to pull a quick disconnect and suck or blow to bleed most of the loop before I start the pump, but that's just me, ymmv.


Thanks for the advice. The funny thing is with my old res I always connected a barb to the top and then a tube to the barb with a funnel stuck in the other end of the tube. My old res only had a g1/4 hole in the top.

This EK res has a screw on top and it was the first time I just stuck the tube right into the res to fill it. BIG MISTAKE.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I am very sorry this happened to you but the silver lining is that we now know not to risk filling with a capless res. I would have never guessed this could even happen...


----------



## strong island 1

That would be cool if I helped even one person, I had to vent somehow. I would never wish that feeling on anyone.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Back to pastel I see. Looks really good with the coolant and new res placement. Well done *Bud*.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> YO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya'll have any recommendations for 140mm fans that aren't PWM?
> I'm using a Lamptron CW611 watercooling controller for my new S3 build, and these are my only requirements:
> 
> 1. HIGH, HIGH, HIGHER, HIGHEST static pressure
> 2. All black
> 
> Thanks - T


I got some of these and did some testing to see how they move air thru a GTX rad.

If you have room for the 38mm height, and survive the sticker shock when you see the price, these things blow away anything else in 140 size by a significant margin and at 1900 rpm, are not all that loud like you usually think of the monster 120 fans being.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=31238

You can see all the fan testing I did in my mix 'n match twins build log.

Darlene


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Back to pastel I see. Looks really good with the coolant and new res placement. Well done *Bud*.


Well thanks _*buuuuddy*_








I'm touched you noticed.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I had a major liquid explosion last night.
> 
> I spent 15hrs yesterday re-doing my entire loop in my STH10. A major over haul. I changed all tubing and routing and added another rad and 400ml res.
> 
> I started filling the EK 400ml res and I started the pump and it emptied the res a couple times and everything started filling up. I kept repeating the process to fill the loop.
> 
> I got about done with the 2nd bottle of coolant and something backed up into the reservoir when I started the pump and all the coolant exploded out of the top of the res. This was while the pump was running so I didn't fill it too high.
> 
> I always fill the res, start the pump, let it empty and shut the pump down and repeat the process,
> 
> Could you imagine EK blood red coolant all over the interior of a matte white sth10.
> 
> I have no clue what even survived yet, because I had work really early today. I might have lost 2 titans.
> 
> I couldn't believe that was the end result of 15hrs of work.
> 
> What would make the res explode out the top like that. I didn't have the top on which I figured was ok while filling up.
> 
> Should I have kept the top of the res on while starting the pump. I always leave the tops off at the beginning to bleed the loop and for filling and toping off.
> 
> I am so upset right now.


I could be wrong, but is the EK coolant non conductive when first opened? you might be ok. I am using the EK coolant clear and it says its none conductive on the bottle.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> That would be cool if I helped even one person, I had to vent somehow. I would never wish that feeling on anyone.


Here's a cheaper alternative than an old psu - 24 pin jumper

I know that we tend to be obsessive when that energy train gets a-chugging, but 15 hours straight ! 3am in the morning ? ouch ! I hope that you can soon laff about it, you had your own volcano EXPLOSION ! Complete in gory blood red coolant







I know it would have scared me straight out of my pants


----------



## Beakz

Definitely guna theme my next build like this! Imagine this, Nzxt Switch 810 in gunmetal, Gigabyte UP7 and mayhems Gigabyte orange dye!


----------



## wermad

Front reminds me of an lmp car.

Offtopic: Le Mans 2013, go Toy!!!!!!! (Sorry audi







).


----------



## Beakz

Definitely looks Le mans ready! Idk should it be a white switch or gunmetal?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> 
> Definitely guna theme my next build like this! Imagine this, Nzxt Switch 810 in gunmetal, Gigabyte UP7 and mayhems Gigabyte orange dye!


I think a white 810 with carbon fiber vinyl would work better


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> That would be cool if I helped even one person, I had to vent somehow. I would never wish that feeling on anyone.


Ive had the same thing happen to me, with Ice Dragon Nanofluid in my TJ07, was filling it up without the cap on the res (usually power on the pump with cap on. Not sure why I didnt this time) powered it up and BOOM white nanofluid all over my case! Actually stained a lot of my case parts so had to repaint and reassemble! So I feel your pain..


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Great rig Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me which colored tubing to pick these days, one without Plasticizers?
> 
> What about the new PrimoChill Advanced LRT?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thanks KaRLiToS.
> I'm using the new Primochill LRT Advanced for this latest build...supposedly they have resolved their plasticizer issues.


I might disappoint you guys but after two months of use, (clear one) with EK red blood coolant
the tube has clouding issue for me








I've just delided my ivy and found out straight away when I drained the loop
Ill post pic once I boot up my system

and I did use the sysprep


----------



## PCModderMike

Ruh oh


----------



## jomama22

Clouding can be caused by any number of variables, plasticizers leaching are not the only cause. The type of dyes/coolant/additives/acrylics/delrins used can cause clouding as well. I'm waiting for glass tubing so we can see this in action but since we only use flex tubing/copper, it will be tough to pinpoint.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Nevermind, will just post thread...


----------



## Lazy Bear

Double post, please delete.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well thanks _*buuuuddy*_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm touched you noticed.


Oh I did notice. All of it! _*BUUUDDDDNNNAAAAHHGGGHHHH.*_









How did you get such small text?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I'm getting the Phobya TPC 30W - 4 Channel 5.25" Bay Fan or Pump Controller. I have never used temperature sensors before and I am wondering how to use them. How do I measure the temp in my res or perhaps coming out of a rad?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19783/bus-349/Phobya_TPC_30W_-_4_Channel_525_Bay_Fan_or_Pump_Controller_70222.html?tl=g34c17s286


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I'm getting the Phobya TPC 30W - 4 Channel 5.25" Bay Fan or Pump Controller. I have never used temperature sensors before and I am wondering how to use them. How do I measure the temp in my res or perhaps coming out of a rad?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19783/bus-349/Phobya_TPC_30W_-_4_Channel_525_Bay_Fan_or_Pump_Controller_70222.html?tl=g34c17s286
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> you might wanna buy a few of these then...
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1459219/][IMG alt=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1459219/width/350/height/700/flags/LL[/URL]


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HF Venom*
> 
> you might wanna buy a few of these then...


Could you link me to that? So are the ones that come with the fan controller so you can measure the temp inside your case?


----------



## sakerfalcon

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24759

Looks like a regular temperature probe mounted in a G1/4 thread form factor, so you can plug it into reservoirs, extra ports on your res, or T-fittings.


----------



## HF Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Could you link me to that? So are the ones that come with the fan controller so you can measure the temp inside your case?


http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Watercooling/Controlling/Bitspower-1-4-Zoll-Temperatur-Sensor-shiny-black::12383.html

...this won't do you any good though since you're probably from the states








-edit-
for the second part of your sentence: those controllers usualy come with a few bits of thermal tape so that you can stick them on stuff


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> This is an awesome build. Really like what you did with the cables and the way you routed the tubes. Nice work!


Thanks man. If it wasn't for your YouTube videos, I wouldn't have made the "switch" to my Switch 810 from Corsair. This case is easier to work with than any Corsair case before the 900D.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> yes it was while I was filling. I had been running my loop for about a month and then decided to change the tubing to clear with red coolant. I also added the 400ml res and another rad and changed the entire tube routing. I basically rebuilt the enitre computer and changed everything. I removed all blocks and cleaned them with a tooth brush so I know nothing was stuck in them.
> 
> I filled the res and ran the pump until it emptied and then I shut the pump down and repeat the process. I got thru about 2 bottles of coolant and everything filled ok. I emptied the second bottle into the res and started the pump again and it sucked about half the coolant down and thats when it errupted.
> 
> Could it have been a big pocket of air was forced into the res and caused this.


To make you feel better, I myself had an accident while going SLI last night, which caused my lower GTX 670 to get bathed in Mayhem's Pastel Blue Berry. I forgot to plug the lower left port on my upper GTX 670 water block. I wiped the case up, disassembled it immediately, cleaned the card and block with an air can and a microfiber towel, re-applied TIM and thermal pads, and slapped it back in. Sorry for your apparent and unexplainable mishap, I just hope everything's okay.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Is there much a performance difference between XSPC EX560 and Black Ice SR1 560?

I am planning to use slow fans maybe something along the lines of ARCTIC COOLING F14 (1300RPM) or NZXT 140mm Rifle Bearing Fan (1300RPM)

OR

Because I will have massive overkill of rads (planning either two 560's or 1x 560 + 1x 420), will there be no difference what so ever?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ruh oh


Primochill Advanced LRT with EK Red blood 2 months use

http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...ld Log Progress/Clouding_zps277019c8.jpg.html


----------



## _REAPER_

Red always stains tubes


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is there much a performance difference between XSPC EX560 and Black Ice SR1 560?
> 
> I am planning to use slow fans maybe something along the lines of ARCTIC COOLING F14 (1300RPM) or NZXT 140mm Rifle Bearing Fan (1300RPM)
> 
> OR
> 
> Because I will have massive overkill of rads (planning either two 560's or 1x 560 + 1x 420), will there be no difference what so ever?


Im also in the market for 2x black ice sr560. Interested to see responses to ur post.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT with EK Red blood 2 months use


Yeah that's not necessarily plasticizer. If the tubing was there for two months it's bound to stain. In fact it doesn't really look cloudy at all, just red.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT with EK Red blood 2 months use
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...ld Log Progress/Clouding_zps277019c8.jpg.html


Looks more like staining.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Red always stains tubes


This

Here is what my Durelene looked like after 6 weeks of use, this is what plasticizer looks like. This was using distilled with Mayhems blue dye. Durelene is on the top and the Primochill is on the bottom before going into my loop.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonPablo83*
> 
> Im also in the market for 2x black ice sr560. Interested to see responses to ur post.


My last few questions on here have fallen on deaf ears









But *PCCG* have a clearance going ATM.

So I hope we get a response soon


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Yeah that's not necessarily plasticizer. If the tubing was there for two months it's bound to stain. In fact it doesn't really look cloudy at all, just red.


Yeah but it does look cloudy in person, I can even tell the difference since I've replaced the visible tubing with new one and currently bleeding it


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I got some of these and did some testing to see how they move air thru a GTX rad.
> 
> If you have room for the 38mm height, and survive the sticker shock when you see the price, these things blow away anything else in 140 size by a significant margin and at 1900 rpm, are not all that loud like you usually think of the monster 120 fans being.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=31238
> 
> You can see all the fan testing I did in my mix 'n match twins build log.
> 
> Darlene


Danke, and I DID see this in your results, and it intrigued me, but alas; 35mm extended top on my CaseLabs S3 is all the spaces I get!!!

I'm still at a loss as to exactly which ones to get, but I'm possibly going to just get a filler set for now, and see how it flies, then replace with the permanent fixtures later.









The failure with the Akasas makes me VERY mad.







I was looking forward to that fan as my primary method of cooling...









Thanks - T


----------



## PCModderMike

That's very disappointing. Well if I have trouble with this loop...I think I'll just throw my hands up to all the tubing out there and go with something like Tygon A-60-G Norprene.
I sure would miss clear with pastel though.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## ginger_nuts

Or just accept that tubing gets stained and factor that in.

No need then to spend big dollars on anything crazy.

Just my $0.02


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Or just accept that tubing gets stained and factor that in.
> 
> No need then to spend big dollars on anything crazy.
> 
> Just my $0.02


Of course that's factored in, IMO it's inevitable that when using a dye of some sort there will be staining. But come on, a thick coat of plasticizer after 6 weeks, that's ridiculous. And if someone wants to spend a good amount of money of their setup, that should be at their discretion.









Wow, dat board.


----------



## Gubz

Hi,
I have the weirdest problem with my Laing D5.
Whenever I turn it on it vibrates like crazy, and barely moves any water. Seems like something is loose inside the pump.
Any way to fix this, or do I have to buy a new pump?..

Appreciate any help!

Video below show how crazy it vibrates.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's very disappointing. Well if I have trouble with this loop...I think I'll just throw my hands up to all the tubing out there and go with something like Tygon A-60-G Norprene.
> I sure would miss clear with pastel though.


Erugh. Leave this place with your amazingly colour coded PC. You make me want to spend money.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Hi,


Open it up and see, something that creates that much of an issue should be pretty easy to spot.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man. If it wasn't for your YouTube videos, I wouldn't have made the "switch" to my Switch 810 from Corsair. This case is easier to work with than any Corsair case before the 900D.
> To make you feel better, I myself had an accident while going SLI last night, which caused my lower GTX 670 to get bathed in Mayhem's Pastel Blue Berry. I forgot to plug the lower left port on my upper GTX 670 water block. I wiped the case up, disassembled it immediately, cleaned the card and block with an air can and a microfiber towel, re-applied TIM and thermal pads, and slapped it back in. Sorry for your apparent and unexplainable mishap, I just hope everything's okay.


Thanks for the kinds words.







I wish my buddy didn't leave the country. I'd like to get my hands on that case and revise that build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


So much gooooooolllllllldddddd! I like it!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Erugh. Leave this place with your amazingly colour coded PC. You make me want to spend money.


Hol'up, hol'up, hol'up! Haha....


----------



## DonPablo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> My last few questions on here have fallen on deaf ears
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But *PCCG* have a clearance going ATM.
> 
> So I hope we get a response soon


Happens now and again. Hold out for a week or two buddy, ill have my system up and running by then using two sr560's cooling a 3 way titan and [email protected]


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Open it up and see, something that creates that much of an issue should be pretty easy to spot.


Like this?


Doesn't seem like anything is loose or broken though.
Does the magnetic round metal "thing" need any oil or lubricate? It's just metal against metal when I put it back in, doesn't seem like it's supposed to be like that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Open it up and see, something that creates that much of an issue should be pretty easy to spot.
> 
> 
> 
> Like this?
> 
> 
> Doesn't seem like anything is loose or broken though.
> Does the magnetic round metal "thing" need any oil or lubricate? It's just metal against metal when I put it back in, doesn't seem like it's supposed to be like that.
Click to expand...

That is exactly how its supposed to be.
The noise is very possibly an Airlock,I have had a similar experience.
My cure is re assemble,re fill then if it still makes noise,unscrew the toothed ring very slowly until the noise ceases then retighten.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


DAMN! What board is that?


----------



## Sethris225

Hey guys, since I would really rather not gunk up my blocks and stain my tubing and deal with dye in general, and I don't quite like the Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red's coloring (too transparent, not red enough) I have a question.
Is it possible/feasible to spraypaint/spray dye the outside of tubing? Has anyone ever tried this?

Might end up with pastel + extra red dye anyway, dunno yet.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> DAMN! What board is that?


It's an Elitegroup Computer Systems Z77H2-AX


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Hey guys, since I would really rather not gunk up my blocks and stain my tubing and deal with dye in general, and I don't quite like the Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red's coloring (too transparent, not red enough) I have a question.
> Is it possible/feasible to spraypaint/spray dye the outside of tubing? Has anyone ever tried this?
> 
> Might end up with pastel + extra red dye anyway, dunno yet.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I think the paint would just crack when you move around the tubing
by move around I mean bending it
have never seen anyone done that though


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Hey guys, since I would really rather not gunk up my blocks and stain my tubing and deal with dye in general, and I don't quite like the Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red's coloring (too transparent, not red enough) I have a question.
> *Is it possible/feasible to spraypaint/spray dye the outside of tubing?* Has anyone ever tried this?
> 
> Might end up with pastel + extra red dye anyway, dunno yet.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


No,you could dye it but paint will just fall off.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I think the paint would just crack when you move around the tubing
> by move around I mind bending it
> have never seen anyone done that though


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,you could dye it but paint will just fall off.


Alright. It'd make more sense to use Pastel and dye rather than dye the tubing at that point.
I might just go with Bloodshed Red. I still dunno. I have some irrational fear of dye I guess.

P.S. This has to be the most active thread on this forum, haha.
Nice work B NEG, I'm sure we all appreciate it!


----------



## ledzepp3

Alright, so throughout planning my new build I have decided that I wanna use white fluid. But now I'm torn about whether I should use premixed or concentrate







any suggestions? I will service this loop every 2-3 months if that helps


----------



## WebsterXC

Either will work pretty much the same. I'd get ice dragon if I were you. I've gotten nothing but great temps with it, and it doesn't stain your blocks.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Either will work pretty much the same. I'd get ice dragon if I were you. I've gotten nothing but great temps with it, and it doesn't stain your blocks.


It most definitely does stain blocks. Anything nickel plated will definitely require polishing afterwards.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Ive had the same thing happen to me, with Ice Dragon Nanofluid in my TJ07, was filling it up without the cap on the res (usually power on the pump with cap on. Not sure why I didnt this time) powered it up and BOOM white nanofluid all over my case! Actually stained a lot of my case parts so had to repaint and reassemble! So I feel your pain..


I'm going crazy. it happened to me again last night. I got home from work and checked all my lines and everything was perfect. I thought maybe I had messed something up because it was 3am last time.

So I screwed the cap on the res and just left the little g1/4 hole open for air to escape.

The res was half full I started the pump and

BOOM another explosion. It was so much pressure that it forced the coolant right out the top g1/4 hole and went everywhere. I had a lot of things covered and my titans were completely off so I didn't hurt my components, but I have blood red coolant all over my brand new white sth10. I am so mad.

The amount of pressure that was forced back into the res was unbelieveable. I mean the coolant went everywhere, it even hit my bed and monitor.

I guess I have to disassemble everything but I did everything correct. I even checked last night.

The res is above the pump and all my lines flow in the correct direction and the return line comes from a rad into the res.

The wierd part is it seems the pressure is coming from the line that feeds the pump. I could be wrong because it happened so fast.

I'm thinking I should unplug one of my 35x pumps and just use one while filling.


----------



## strong island 1

Should I completely close the top of the res and try again.

I'm kinda nervous trying this because it seemed like so much pressure that if it can't release thru the top of the res I feel like it will blow something else open.

I don't know what to do. I guess I just have to take everything apart and try again.

I put the STH10 together my self and it was a ton of flat panels that all come together so there are a lot of seems and cracks that I know the coolant went into. I guess I should completely take the case apart and clean every part of it.

Does anyone know if the EK coolant will damage paint and powder coating.

it seems to be coming off but it's so hard to keep a white case clean so I feel like the case will never be the same again.


----------



## strong island 1

someone asked me yesterday if maybe I had the pump pushing into the res.

I know it seems like that would explain it because that's what seems to happen.

But I had already filled the system with 2 bottles of coolant before this happened so I know this could not be the problem. So the loop filled up with about 2 bottles and now something is causing this blockage or pressure.


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> someone asked me yesterday if maybe I had the pump pushing into the res.
> 
> I know it seems like that would explain it because that's what seems to happen.
> 
> But I had already filled the system with 2 bottles of coolant before this happened so I know this could not be the problem. So the loop filled up with about 2 bottles and now something is causing this blockage or pressure.


Cursed loop I say, try this.

http://thepuck.hubpages.com/hub/Simple-curse-breaking-for-the-beginner


----------



## ez12a

i want to join


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Should I completely close the top of the res and try again.
> 
> I'm kinda nervous trying this because it seemed like so much pressure that if it can't release thru the top of the res I feel like it will blow something else open.
> 
> I don't know what to do. I guess I just have to take everything apart and try again.
> 
> I put the STH10 together my self and it was a ton of flat panels that all come together so there are a lot of seems and cracks that I know the coolant went into. I guess I should completely take the case apart and clean every part of it.
> 
> Does anyone know if the EK coolant will damage paint and powder coating.
> 
> it seems to be coming off but it's so hard to keep a white case clean so I feel like the case will never be the same again.


dude, im sorry but running a pump with the cap off your res and inside your case is a huge no no. even with cap on, you were suppose to use a compression or barb fitting with your tubing going out of the case to let air escape and fill your res at the same time. c'mon son, you got thousands of dollars at risk.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> dude, im sorry but running a pump with the cap off your res and inside your case is a huge no no. even with cap on, you were suppose to use a compression or barb fitting with your tubing going out of the case to let air escape and fill your res at the same time. *c'mon son*, you got thousands of dollars at risk.




Sorry just made me think of that lol...not trying to poke fun though strong island....very unfortunate situation you have there.


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> someone asked me yesterday if maybe I had the pump pushing into the res.
> 
> I know it seems like that would explain it because that's what seems to happen.
> 
> But I had already filled the system with 2 bottles of coolant before this happened so I know this could not be the problem. So the loop filled up with about 2 bottles and now something is causing this blockage or pressure.


Did you sleeve the cables on the pump? Any chance you reversed the ground and +12v contacts in the plug? Might sound stupid, but strange issues like this usually are. Almost sounds like your pump is working in reverse... Take the pump out, hook up some tubing to the inlet and outlet and drop them into a few buckets with some water in them and test that the pump is even operating properly.


----------



## subsven

I read that after I quoted it. Never mind if that isn't the issue, lol.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> dude, im sorry but running a pump with the cap off your res and inside your case is a huge no no. even with cap on, you were suppose to use a compression or barb fitting with your tubing going out of the case to let air escape and fill your res at the same time. c'mon son, you got thousands of dollars at risk.


Ya I'm not saying it wasn't my fault. But I have been using these pumps for a year and I have filled and changed my loop so many times and I have done it this way with no problems ever. This is like my third or 4th watercooled build and I drain and refill it like once a month because I make so many changes and I have never even had a drop of coolant leak out of anything. I have had a perfect experience with watercooling until this.

I always leave my cap off for the first few days to fill and bleed the loop.

You have to imagine how much pressure I am talking about. The 400ml ek res is very tall and it was half full. So the coolant was pushed all the way to the top and forced very violently out the top.

I bet even if I did have a tube on the top g1/4 hole it would have shot out the tube and all over my room and $3,000 tv.

I was also afraid if I completely sealed the res where would that pressure go.

It was so much pressure that I even think I saw coolant come out of the actual screw on cap where the threads are.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Ya I'm not saying it wasn't my fault. But I have been using these pumps for a year and I have filled and changed my loop so many times and I have done it this way with no problems ever. This is like my third or 4th watercooled build and I drain and refill it like once a month because I make so many changes and I have never even had a drop of coolant leak out of anything. I have had a perfect experience with watercooling until this.
> 
> I always leave my cap off for the first few days to fill and bleed the loop.
> 
> You have to imagine how much pressure I am talking about. The 400ml ek res is very tall and it was half full. So the coolant was pushed all the way to the top and forced very violently out the top.
> 
> I bet even if I did have a tube on the top g1/4 hole it would have shot out the tube and all over my room and $3,000 tv.
> 
> I was also afraid if I completely sealed the res where would that pressure go.
> 
> It was so much pressure that I even think I saw coolant come out of the actual screw on cap where the threads are.


This has got to be one of the craziest water cooling mishap stories I have ever heard. Got any pics of all this? Just curious.


----------



## strong island 1

I have pics of right before the explosion and right after but not with the coolant everywhere. My power supply is in the bottom of the case so I had to try and soak up the coolant fast before it hit my power supply so I didn't have time to take a picture.

I should take a pictue of all the paper towels in my garbage can. It looks like a massacre happened. It looks like blood all over. I used like 4 t-shirts and a roll of paper towels. It was a nightmare.


----------



## lowfat

You sure you have the reservoir on the inlet of the pump and not the outlet? If correct then I'd check the blocks for some sort of blockage or kink in some tubing.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You sure you have the reservoir on the inlet of the pump and not the outlet? If correct then I'd check the blocks for some sort of blockage or kink in some tubing.


I know for sure. The way I know for sure besides seeing the tube from the reservoir going into the inlet of the pump. Is that I had already filled the system with 2 bottles of coolant before this happened.

So what I am saying is that it filled perfectly fine for the first 2 bottles of coolant so I know the pump is connected correctly.

Since I have clear tubing I can see that coolant passed thru all the tubes. The return line for my res is even full so I know the coolant got around the entire loop with no problems and then all of the sudden this happened.

Like I said I fill the res start the pump until the res empties and then I repeat the process. I did this perfectly fine with 2 bottles of coolant and then I filled it again and started the pump and thats when it exploded.

I know I didn't use too much coolant because my last loop took 2 and a half bottles and now I have added another 360rad and went from a tiny res to a 400ml res which the res is almost a whole bottle of coolant all by itself. I got almost done with the second bottle before this happened.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You sure you have the reservoir on the inlet of the pump and not the outlet? If correct then I'd check the blocks for some sort of blockage or kink in some tubing.


It's funny you say this though because thats the only way I could try and explain to you guys what happened. It's like my pump reversed itself. It's like someone filled my reservoir with the outlet of the pump going into the res and then started the pump. That's the closest I can explain what happened, but I know my pump wasn't wrong because it filled the loop with 2 bottles of coolant perfectly fine.

I'm going to take evrything apart and start over, making sure there is nothing clogging and rads or blocks.

But since I was changing my loop and adding new components I took out every block and cleaned them with a tooth brush and I also rinsed out all my rads including the new one and I used a brand new res and brand new tubing. I really did do everything exactly the way I am supposed to.

And I know even if I had tubing connected to a fitting when filling the res, the coolant would have blown the tubing off the top or pushed all the way thru the tubing and went everywhere. Thats how much pressure there was.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Maybe you had a kink somewhere or something that would block the flow and when it hit that spot while filling the loop it had no where to go so it just reversed and exploded out the only way it could travel.


----------



## strong island 1

.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Maybe you had a kink somewhere or something that would block the flow and when it hit that spot while filling the loop it had no where to go so it just reversed and exploded out the only way it could travel.


I know that's exatly what seems to have happened but I checked a 100 time and no kinks. Nothing even close to a kink because I used a lot of right angles.

That is the only thing I really did different is use a lot of right angles. I tried to clean up the mobo area so I used right angles with small peices of tubing to connect the cpu, mobo and vrm blocks. I used right angles in the bottom and top compartments also.

Could a lot of right angles cause this kind of blockage.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I know that's exatly what seems to have happened but I checked a 100 time and no kinks. Nothing even close to a kink because I used a lot of right angles.
> 
> That is the only thing I really did different is use a lot of right angles. I tried to clean up the mobo area so I used right angles with small peices of tubing to connect the cpu, mobo and vrm blocks. I used right angles in the bottom and top compartments also.
> 
> Could a lot of right angles cause this kind of blockage.


No not unless they are defective and have something blocking it. When you take your loop apart go through each fitting and tube one at a time and blow through it and look for any restrictions. There is a logical answer for everything. Something went wrong there and there is a reason behind it.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I know that's exatly what seems to have happened but I checked a 100 time and no kinks. Nothing even close to a kink because I used a lot of right angles.
> 
> That is the only thing I really did different is use a lot of right angles. I tried to clean up the mobo area so I used right angles with small peices of tubing to connect the cpu, mobo and vrm blocks. I used right angles in the bottom and top compartments also.
> 
> Could a lot of right angles cause this kind of blockage.


Have you tried draining the loop and blow air into the line to see if you have a clog in one of the fittings or the rad? Better then having solution spraying all over.

Edit:
Or turn you flow around in the line(reverse pump direction). Just be sure to seal the line first.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I know that's exatly what seems to have happened but I checked a 100 time and no kinks. Nothing even close to a kink because I used a lot of right angles.
> 
> That is the only thing I really did different is use a lot of right angles. I tried to clean up the mobo area so I used right angles with small peices of tubing to connect the cpu, mobo and vrm blocks. I used right angles in the bottom and top compartments also.
> 
> Could a lot of right angles cause this kind of blockage.


I wouldn't think so. I really don't quite understand how this would have happened. The amount of back pressure you're talking about sounds really extreme. There usually is a small amount of back pressure when filing the loop for the first time, but I've never experienced anything even remotely close to that. I've got a dual pump (MCP35X2) setup as well and a tall reservoir. I was able to leave the top off of my reservoir when I filled it without any issues. This is a very strange issue that you're having.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I wouldn't think so. I really don't quite understand how this would have happened. The amount of back pressure you're talking about sounds really extreme. There usually is a small amount of back pressure when filing the loop for the first time, but I've never experienced anything even remotely close to that. I've got a dual pump (MCP35X2) setup as well and a tall reservoir. I was able to leave the top off of my reservoir when I filled it without any issues. This is a very strange issue that you're having.


I know I am so fustrated. To have this be the result of weeks of work and 15 hours on Sunday just feels really terrible.

It's also wierd because the return line that goes into my res is full of coolant so the coolant made it around the entire loop without getting clogged.

I'm going to tear everything down tonight so I will let you guys know what happens.

I always fill my loop with the cap off. I always get a little back pressure and air but I have never experienced this.


----------



## strong island 1

Sorry to take over this thread. I will stop for now. You guys are the only ones I really have to talk about this kind of stuff with.

I appreciate you guys listening to me vent and I appreciate all the recommendations. Hopefully everyone will be careful when filling because I know I did everything the way I am supposed to so I guess it could happen to anyone.

Hopefully I will have some nice pics to post in a couple days.

I wish I would have taken better pictures before it exploded. it was so beautiful.


----------



## PwndN00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Sorry to take over this thread. I will stop for now. You guys are the only ones I really have to talk about this kind of stuff with.
> 
> I appreciate you guys listening to me vent and I appreciate all the recommendations. Hopefully everyone will be careful when filling because I know I did everything the way I am supposed to so I guess it could happen to anyone.
> 
> Hopefully I will have some nice pics to post in a couple days.
> 
> I wish I would have taken better pictures before it exploded. it was so beautiful.


Post some pictures....I don't remember seeing any. Having a visual REALLY helps problem solving vs a panic/frustrated description.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

That thing exploding the way he says sound like air been trapped "pressure" and decided to get back at you..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's why I bought a cheap Cooler Master 500W PSU to use just for odds and ends like filling loops. $40 well spent IMO...


the hell?
http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1368566011&sr=8-3&keywords=psu+adapter+molex
I got it for $10 bucks on sale..
12v=2A

Enough to have your pump pumping XD
Thats what i use, 0 problems..

..
Now question...
*Somebody have ever used a datavac to help get the water out the loop?*
Was thinking how slow the process is even with a drain port, so i was wondering if the precious datavac would do the job for me lol...
Of course taking the precautions needed like making sure you hold the end tube very well...


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT with EK Red blood 2 months use
> 
> http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...ld Log Progress/Clouding_zps277019c8.jpg.html


You don't know plasticizer like I do. Primochill Pro LRT in one week with XSPC EC-6 UV Blue. Looks like someone had sex with my rig and blew his load in it...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's why I bought a cheap Cooler Master 500W PSU to use just for odds and ends like filling loops. $40 well spent IMO...


My donkey!


Cant beat a 1200w pump tester.


----------



## Namkab

Hey, just wanted to post my first build in the watercooling thread. Its nothing compared to the amazing builds in this thread, props to them. I learn much here and I think my next build can be a good step up from the current build because of this thread.





I wish the pictures were better but all i have is my phone.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Namkab*
> 
> Hey, just wanted to post my first build in the watercooling thread. Its nothing compared to the amazing builds in this thread, props to them. I learn much here and I think my next build can be a good step up from the current build because of this thread.
> 
> I wish the pictures were better but all i have is my phone.


That's a great looking build! You should be proud of it.


----------



## driftingforlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My donkey!
> 
> Cant beat a 1200w pump tester.


Cough..........I have used my Platimax 1500W as a pump tester


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Does it hurt anything using just a basic 12V power brick? That's what I've always done and never had any issues...but I have boxes of power bricks...I just can't toss them.


----------



## lowfat

As long as it is 12V and has enough amperage to drive the pump it will do fine.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My donkey!
> 
> 
> Cant beat a 1200w pump tester.


Didn't know you were a fan of CM. Nice sleeve job their mate









I kept an old 300w oem psu i took out of an old desktop pc. Its used just for testing components and its small enough to stow away when i don't need it.

Edit: My fan controller's 12v went out. Pos just feeds power dirty and causes the fans to buzz. Sucks







. Luckly, the 5v runs perfect and I have all my R4s running off it. I have no control but at least its very quiet for my needs. Just gonna delete the controller all together and run off the psu's 5v. Sure luv em R4s for having such a great voltage range







Might just get a 3.5" controller (Sunbeam) since I have an available 3.5 slot.


----------



## Mrxxxxxxxxxx17

Hi' i'm building a watercooling loop for cpu and gpu (on a low budget) i wanted to share with you my photos and i'd loke to know your opinions on what case could i get for cheap (really cheap i mean) that would be more spacious than the one i'm using right now, wich is a battle-case









I'd like also opinions on what could i use as a cheap reservoir, right now i'm using a chemical stuff container (2 Litres) with a gasket on the cap but i need something to put IN the case not ON the case xD

i'm sorry for the mess of wires but i'm using 2 PSU's






I love the last shot of the wb


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrxxxxxxxxxx17*
> 
> Hi' i'm building a watercooling loop for cpu and gpu (on a low budget) i wanted to share with you my photos and i'd loke to know your opinions on what case could i get for cheap (really cheap i mean) that would be more spacious than the one i'm using right now, wich is a battle-case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like also opinions on what could i use as a cheap reservoir, right now i'm using a chemical stuff container (2 Litres) with a gasket on the cap
> 
> i'm sorry for the mess of wires but i'm using 2 PSU's
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the last shot of the wb


There's a slew of options for you. if want something unique, the HAF XB is pretty good. If you don't like this unique setup, corsair makes some pretty good cases for a great price.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrxxxxxxxxxx17*
> 
> Hi' i'm building a watercooling loop for cpu and gpu (on a low budget) i wanted to share with you my photos and i'd loke to know your opinions on what case could i get for cheap (really cheap i mean) that would be more spacious than the one i'm using right now, wich is a battle-case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like also opinions on what could i use as a cheap reservoir, right now i'm using a chemical stuff container (2 Litres) with a gasket on the cap but i need something to put IN the case not ON the case xD
> 
> i'm sorry for the mess of wires but i'm using 2 PSU's
> 
> I love the last shot of the wb


Have you looked at our MCRES Micro? It's about 26 bucks and should suit your needs pretty well.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Namkab*
> 
> Hey, just wanted to post my first build in the watercooling thread. Its nothing compared to the amazing builds in this thread, props to them. I learn much here and I think my next build can be a good step up from the current build because of this thread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish the pictures were better but all i have is my phone.


I'm not a fan of Monsoon fittings, but you did great for a first build.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> You don't know plasticizer like I do. Primochill Pro LRT in one week with XSPC EC-6 UV Blue. Looks like someone had sex with my rig and blew his load in it...


LMAO seems like someone did!
I feel better with my tube after seeing yours now....


----------



## strong island 1

Here are some pictures of the aftermath. Obviously I didn't leave coolant everywhere and so I have no pictures of that. And now it looks like crap because I had to pull all the wires out because they got wet and the floor panels and everything are all removed. I tore it apart as fast as I could to catch all the liquid. My garbage is full of paper towels.

This is where I am at right now. I am going to start tearing it down now and start all over again.


----------



## strong island 1

It sucks too because I found some pictures before I was fully done and before I started filling it. It looked so nice. I am so mad right now I can't even look at my computer it makes me so sick.


----------



## fakeblood

I think you best option is to perhaps run a fitting off the top of the res with a run of tubing and fill via that. Allowing air in and if it does blow again atleast it wont go everywhere..

I see you havent come up with a name for your build either...might I suggest "Gusher"


----------



## pc-illiterate

hey strong, put everything in a box. ship it to me. problem solved.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> It sucks too because I found some pictures before I was fully done and before I started filling it. It looked so nice. I am so mad right now I can't even look at my computer it makes me so sick.


Try to cheer up, I can't imagine what you're feeling, but the past is gone...that will be a beautiful rig once again, and who knows, maybe the extra down time will let you realize some ways to make it even better than before. I feel your pain man, but it looks like the worst of it is behind you. Somewhat relevant story...a good friend of mine races stock cars, he is the driver, sponsor, and complete pit crew. His car gets damaged, over and over, and over and over...but yet, he always rebuilds it, each time better than before, because racing is what he loves to do. And we all love computers and water cooling. I've had an accident that cost me a motherboard many years ago, but it never put me off water cooling, and I hope you stick with it cause that rig was gorgeous, and I know it will be again. Looks like the cleanup is going well at least.


----------



## wermad

@Strong, good luck mate









If you have a heat gun (on low) or a hair dryer, it helps to dry stuff quickly. I double check everything.


----------



## strong island 1

Thanks you guys made me feel better. There are some things that I want to change anyway. It all came off the interior of the case pretty well but it's still in the cracks.

I think the idea of connecting a tube to the top with a bucket near by will be a good idea for next time.

I definitely didn't get turned off watercooling but after spending so much time and money and having to redo it all makes me a little sick.

I love watercooling so much and in the grand scheme of life it really isn't a big deal.


----------



## strong island 1

This is the first build I did in this case and I hated how messy it looked and I hated the tubing so much. Thats why I went to the 90 degree angles and tried to clean everything up. it really looked like a mess in these pics


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Namkab*
> 
> Hey, just wanted to post my first build in the watercooling thread. Its nothing compared to the amazing builds in this thread, props to them. I learn much here and I think my next build can be a good step up from the current build because of this thread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish the pictures were better but all i have is my phone.


Even with the external rad, you've manage to make it clean looking. Especially the plumbing at the rear. Nice job and welcome to the club.


----------



## Killa Cam

don't worry man. your build will be fine - i hope. we all make mistakes, but you have the right attitude. breaking down a loop is not fun and can be tedious, but that's how we progress, to learn from mistakes. your experience was unfortunate, but hopefully others will learn from that, and take preemptive measures. it sounds like an isolated incident, but let us know if you find the cause.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> This is the first build I did in this case and I hated how messy it looked and I hated the tubing so much. Thats why I went to the 90 degree angles and tried to clean everything up. it really looked like a mess in these pics
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Me likes


----------



## wermad

ocn double post (







)


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> This is the first build I did in this case and I hated how messy it looked and I hated the tubing so much. Thats why I went to the 90 degree angles and tried to clean everything up. it really looked like a mess in these pics


honestly man, i see nothing wrong with that. i think people put too much emphasis on having a "straight" lines and think that is the only way to achieve "clean aesthetics." bull! that was a very clean layout, and you get better flow rate by using less angled fittings. to each his own


----------



## Killa Cam

dpl pst


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> honestly man, i see nothing wrong with that. i think people put too much emphasis on having a "straight" lines and think that is the only way to achieve "clean aesthetics." bull! that was a very clean layout, and you get better flow rate by using less angled fittings. to each his own


Qft, I prefer fluid bends tbh. Looks smexier imho.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> honestly man, i see nothing wrong with that. i think people put too much emphasis on having a "straight" lines and think that is the only way to achieve "clean aesthetics." bull! that was a very clean layout, and you get better flow rate by using less angled fittings. to each his own


There's a certain charm in order, minimalism and symmetry. Much like we spend 90% of our time building computers in cable management. Hammering components together is the easy part.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> cable management


ugh.. the biggest drawback in building pc's/ my sworn enemy


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> dude, im sorry but running a pump with the cap off your res and inside your case is a huge no no. even with cap on, you were suppose to use a compression or barb fitting with your tubing going out of the case to let air escape and fill your res at the same time. c'mon son, you got thousands of dollars at risk.


I've never done that myself. I usually just fill the res with a syringe and plug the G1/4 hole with my finger when I turn on the pump. Rinse and repeat until its full...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> That thing exploding the way he says sound like air been trapped "pressure" and decided to get back at you..
> the hell?
> http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1368566011&sr=8-3&keywords=psu+adapter+molex
> I got it for $10 bucks on sale..
> 12v=2A
> 
> Enough to have your pump pumping XD
> Thats what i use, 0 problems..
> 
> ..
> Now question...
> *Somebody have ever used a datavac to help get the water out the loop?*
> Was thinking how slow the process is even with a drain port, so i was wondering if the precious datavac would do the job for me lol...
> Of course taking the precautions needed like making sure you hold the end tube very well...


Those are handy for sure but I wanted an actual extra PSU for other uses as well. Plus I don't like to use my system PSU while filling the loop because I usually finish all my cabling before filling...


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> This is the first build I did in this case and I hated how messy it looked and I hated the tubing so much. Thats why I went to the 90 degree angles and tried to clean everything up. it really looked like a mess in these pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like loops better than angles. Then again, I like brunettes better than blondes.

Awesome build strong. Hang in there. Take a step back then revisit it...


----------



## PCModderMike

Sorry should have posted all the my pics at once...but just got it all done.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If I ever do a blue themed build I will be using Mayhems berry blue for sure. I just can't ever see doing a blue build for myself though...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> If I ever do a blue themed build I will be using Mayhems berry blue for sure. I just can't ever see doing a blue build for myself though...


One day....one day I'll turn you.

lol


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol, its not that I don't like blue. I'm just stuck on ROG boards at the moment.


----------



## PCModderMike

Haha yea. I would love to pick me up a ROG board in the future, great performers....but I feel like you're forced into a black and red theme using them. Some nice blacked out versions would be great.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, its not that I don't like blue. I'm just stuck on ROG boards at the moment.


Get a WS-E and you'll turn to the blue side:


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Get a WS-E and you'll turn to the blue side:


That is absolutely ridiculous. I'm using a ROG MVE in my current project because of the red, black, and white theme, but I think I will try something different for my next build. That looks like it would fit the glove very well!

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love every aspect of my MOBO, but I like switching it up.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Haha yea. I would love to pick me up a ROG board in the future, great performers....but I feel like you're forced into a black and red theme using them. *Some nice blacked out versions would be great.*


Colour neutral boards FTW.

Also you could probably take your coolant a few shades darker. It would look a bit better IMO.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That is absolutely ridiculous. I'm using a ROG MVE in my current project because of the red, black, and white theme, but I think I will try something different for my next build. That looks like it would fit the glove very well!
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love every aspect of my MOBO, but I like switching it up.


It does 16x/16x/16x/16x like the Extreme11 X79 and its slightly cheaper (~$500 vs ~$600).

I love WS Asus boards. The standard WS X79 can be had for less then $200 (new ones are selling for ~$175 on ebay) and it has the same phase as the RIVF. I think the RIVE is a better overclocker though, but the WS-E is a beast in the likes of the Extreme11.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Haha yea. I would love to pick me up a ROG board in the future, great performers....but I feel like you're forced into a black and red theme using them. Some nice blacked out versions would be great.


I couldn't agree with you more. I'm just not a fan of the black and red thing since it's been done 10000x.


----------



## jokrik

This really make me wanna start a gold theme build

though not sure whether there are any gold color tubing/coolant


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I couldn't agree with you more. I'm just not a fan of the black and red thing since it's been done 10000x.


Haha yea most definetly. When I was looking for ideas I was like, "agh well at least I know that I'm DEFINETLY not doing a black and red theme."

......

http://www.overclock.net/t/1387344/yet-another-rog-build-log-phantom-820-mve-3770k-crossfire-7950s-custom-paint/0_30

I just don't know how it happened......


----------



## wermad

I went with a green theme and though the Sniper3 is a nice board, I've had better overclockers. Only option would be to go w/ the Assassin x79. Would rather get a mb w/ a block made for it







.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> This really make me wanna start a gold theme build
> 
> though not sure whether there are any gold color tubing/coolant


So not a fan of the direction Asus took w/ their Z87 boards.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I went with a green theme and though the Sniper3 is a nice board, I've had better overclockers. Only option would be to go w/ the Assassin x79. Would rather get a mb w/ a block made for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


The problem with Assassin2 is the sinks are rather silly, and you can't replace them with waterblocks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> The problem with Assassin2 is the sinks are rather silly, and you can't replace them with waterblocks.


Good lord that's so true. GB and MSI got really gimicky w/ some mb heatsinks. I'm glad my mb only has a goofy skull w/ knife. The Assassins pistol does bother me too much.

Honestly, I would rather get a RIVE or a MVE and slap a block on it


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> It sucks too because I found some pictures before I was fully done and before I started filling it. It looked so nice. I am so mad right now I can't even look at my computer it makes me so sick.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning (Click to open)


Now that I finally saw your loop, I think I know why it exploded. Your reservoir is not part of your loop and is like a huge tee so lots of air gets stuck in your loop instead of going back out and up to the res. I'm pretty sure someone a already guessed this. But as I mentioned before, hope you get it up and running okay.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Now that I finally saw your loop, I think I know why it exploded. Your reservoir is not part of your loop and is like a huge tee so lots of air gets stuck in your loop instead of going back out and up to the res. I'm pretty sure someone a already guessed this. But as I mentioned before, hope you get it up and running okay.


More likely the pump stopped for some reason and couldn't circulate the liquid any more. So the top rad's liquid had to flow down (gravity) and since the res was open, it spilled out of the reservoir. Coupled w/ the other rads and components its very probably the "backflow" occurred w/ an open reservoir. Happens to the best of us









edit: had a spill myself w/ my last build. With two Monsta 480s above the second res, it was inevitable and i had a spill when the pump lost power (accidentally disconnected).


----------



## Johnny Utah

My mid-tower loop has served me pretty well for the past year or so. Ever since adding that 2nd 7970 though, I've been wanting to beef up my rig all-around so this is the answer lol. Really pumped about joining the CaseLabs club. Bought a CSQ block since I have mis-matched blocks (CSQ and pre-CSQ). Now I'll get to use a proper bridge. Debating whether or not to go for a 3rd 7970 or just ride out dual 7970s until the 9970s show up.

Oh almost forgot. I fell in love with the Aqualis, but I can't find a complete 880 anywhere so I decided to see if I can make two tops work. Quad port on top and single port on the bottom feeding one of the pumps. I feel confident I'll be able to put it together this way, but the big question is if the loop will actually be able to be bled. I was thinking of maybe plugging up the tube with some foam to them force water out of the little waterfall jets up top and intake water through the jets at the bottom. Looking forward to messing with it.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> More likely the pump stopped for some reason and couldn't circulate the liquid any more. So the top rad's liquid had to flow down (gravity) and since the res was open, it spilled out of the reservoir. Coupled w/ the other rads and components its very probably the "backflow" occurred w/ an open reservoir. Happens to the best of us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: had a spill myself w/ my last build. With two Monsta 480s above the second res, it was inevitable and i had a spill when the pump lost power (accidentally disconnected).


The way he explained it, it sounded like it didn't just overflow, he said it exploded out the res. So the air was just building up somewhere until it couldn't hold and forced itself out of the little hole, taking water with it. Spills gotta happen to everyone though. It builds character, lol.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Now that I finally saw your loop, I think I know why it exploded. Your reservoir is not part of your loop and is like a huge tee so lots of air gets stuck in your loop instead of going back out and up to the res. I'm pretty sure someone a already guessed this. But as I mentioned before, hope you get it up and running okay.


I'm not sure I understand. I really want to figure this out. My pump is under my res and pulling directly from it and the rad installed in the flex bays is returning into the res. Is that not right? I'm not sure what else to do.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> The way he explained it, it sounded like it didn't just overflow, he said it exploded out the res. So the air was just building up somewhere until it couldn't hold and forced itself out of the little hole, taking water with it. Spills gotta happen to everyone though. It builds character, lol.


It didn't just overflow from back flow. it was literally like an explosion. I had a q-tip box 5 feet away and it got coolant on it also.

I spent all night completely tearing down my loop, everything is out of the case and rinsed out, even the tubing.

Someone said before my res isnt part of the loop but the pump is pulling directly from it and the final return line goes into the res. Isn't this correct. I really am asking seriously because I don't wan't the same mistake to happen again.

Can anyone see something really wrong with the way the loop flows. I would love to know before I put it back together.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhsownsbeta*
> 
> I like loops better than angles. Then again, I like brunettes better than blondes.
> 
> Awesome build strong. Hang in there. Take a step back then revisit it...


I really like the loop look better also but it just got to messy with the 2 mobo blocks, 2 gpu blocks and cpu block so close together. It really isn't easy trying to plumb a fully watercooled RIVE with a CPU block and the 2 GPU blocks.

Sometimes I think that the mobo block isn't even worth all the extra tubing and trouble.


----------



## strong island 1

.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bloody hell,learn to edit previous posts please.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

New Titan block from Alphacool...




























Source

Looks awful if you ask me..


----------



## Killa Cam

wha? alphacool running out of copper? end of days man


----------



## kingchris

will keep the weight down! good idea


----------



## GEARjmr

Made some changes to my SM8...a little paint, a new res and pump top and a RX 480 rad in p/p. Man that paintin' takes time...lol.



http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w680/GEARjmr/DAD004_zpse7f124d5.jpg~original


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> will keep the weight down! good idea


i actually don't mind blocks using less metal if it doesn't sacrifice performance. but it better be cheaper too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GEARjmr*
> 
> Made some changes to my SM8...a little paint, a new res and pump top and a RX 480 rad in p/p. Man that paintin' takes time...lol.
> 
> 
> http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w680/GEARjmr/DAD004_zpse7f124d5.jpg~original


nice progress


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Colour neutral boards FTW.
> 
> Also you could probably take your coolant a few shades darker. It would look a bit better IMO.


I could play with it some more. Once the coolant is in the loop though, if I add more dye it has trouble mixing thoroughly. But I'll see what it does.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GEARjmr*
> 
> Made some changes to my SM8...a little paint, a new res and pump top and a RX 480 rad in p/p. Man that paintin' takes time...lol.
> 
> 
> http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w680/GEARjmr/DAD004_zpse7f124d5.jpg~original


Looking real good.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bloody hell,learn to edit previous posts please.


Or at least learn how to use this.
http://hostthenpost.org
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> New Titan block from Alphacool...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152818968140650.1073741827.216841135649&type=1
> 
> 
> Source
> 
> Looks awful if you ask me..


Eww. It looks so cheap.


----------



## bundymania

Bling Bling Block


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> New Titan block from Alphacool...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> 
> Looks awful if you ask me..






Wow that's really sad. I love love LOVE Alphacool blocks. I'm getting some Alphacool 79xx v2 blocks in black for my 7950's. They are so sexy. I just don't know what they were thinking when they were making those.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> New Titan block from Alphacool...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awful if you ask me..


Yeah that looks absolutely terrible. It has zero visual appeal.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Bling Bling Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So much Bling!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GEARjmr*
> 
> Made some changes to my SM8...a little paint, a new res and pump top and a RX 480 rad in p/p. Man that paintin' takes time...lol.
> 
> 
> http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w680/GEARjmr/DAD004_zpse7f124d5.jpg~original


Top Notch rig!









you should've made a log


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> It sucks too because I found some pictures before I was fully done and before I started filling it. It looked so nice. I am so mad right now I can't even look at my computer it makes me so sick.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is very unfortunate event! Sorry to hear such terrible thing happen to you. That is complex loop. From the picture I see; res >> front radiator >> bottom radiator >> top radiator. Is that correct? I can imagine the pump going to have hard time to push the fluid to front radiator alone when filling the loop. From the picture I can see the pump was trying to push (the remaining) air out from front radiator when the "explosion" happen. Can you run the pump at lower speed (using fan controller)? I think too much restriction causing the liquid to go to the less restriction route which is the reservoir.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bloody hell,learn to edit previous posts please.


I'm sorry but I can never figure out why it does that. All I did was delete all but one pic so I wasn't replying to a ton of photos. I put my reply far apart from the photo and there was no quote around my reply. I am sorry but I tried really hard to fix it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I'm sorry but I can never figure out why it does that. All I did was delete all but one pic so I wasn't replying to a ton of photos. I put my reply far apart from the photo and there was no quote around my reply. I am sorry but I tried really hard to fix it.


I think he was referring to the fact that you make a separate post for each reply instead of editing the one post and having multiple replies. Which can also be done w/ the multi quote button right next to the reply and quote buttons.


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I'm not sure I understand. I really want to figure this out. My pump is under my res and pulling directly from it and the rad installed in the flex bays is returning into the res. Is that not right? I'm not sure what else to do.


Hey strong, I briefly mentioned this before but try this trick next time you fill:

Disconnect the return line that feeds into your res and put a few feet of extra tubing on it. Then, fill your res to the top and suck the fluid through your loop. Just stick the thing in your mouth and suck on it, lol, until you see the water moving into that extra tubing (or it ends up in your mouth, lol) block it off with your thumb and then plug it back into the res. this is obviously easier with quick disconnects, but I'm sure you can lay your case down or fashion something with a male-to-male barb fitting or something to limit any potential spillage. This way your loop is 90% bled out before you ever power the pump.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That is very unfortunate event! Sorry to hear such terrible thing happen to you. That is complex loop. From the picture I see; res >> front radiator >> bottom radiator >> top radiator. Is that correct? I can imagine the pump going to have hard time to push the fluid to front radiator alone when filling the loop. From the picture I can see the pump was trying to push (the remaining) air out from front radiator when the "explosion" happen. Can you run the pump at lower speed (using fan controller)? I think too much restriction causing the liquid to go to the less restriction route which is the reservoir.


Ya I think it has gotten a little above my skill level but I am learning a lot and getting better everyday. i think it's just a very long loop with a lot of right angles. I am going to try and shorten it and reduce right angles.

The pump is under the res in the bottom compartment so it goes - res>>down to pump>>up to monsta rad in top compartment>>vrm block>>cpu block>>chipset block>>gpu blocks>>down to rad in bottom compartment>>then to the rad in the flex bays>>then back to res.

I think I sent the coolant up and down too many times. That coupled with a lot of components and a ton of right angles I think just caused pressure to build up instead of the coolant making it to the end of the loop and the pressure just back up really violentely into the res.

Because I blew on all the components individually and nothing was clogged.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think he was referring to the fact that you make a separate post for each reply instead of editing the one post and having multiple replies. Which can also be done w/ the multi quote button right next to the reply and quote buttons.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think he was referring to the fact that you make a separate post for each reply instead of editing the one post and having multiple replies. Which can also be done w/ the multi quote button right next to the reply and quote buttons.


I'm really sorry, I didn't even realize I was doing this. I just have had a ton to say and have been really fustrated the past couple days.

Now that I look back in the thread I did make a ton of posts in a row. I apologize to everyone if interupted the thread. Maybe I can get a mod to delete my posts. I have to learn more about forum ettiquette. This is pretty much my first and only forum I have been to or post in.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I'm sorry but I can never figure out why it does that. All I did was delete all but one pic so I wasn't replying to a ton of photos. I put my reply far apart from the photo and there was no quote around my reply. I am sorry but I tried really hard to fix it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think he was referring to the fact that you make a separate post for each reply instead of editing the one post and having multiple replies. Which can also be done w/ the multi quote button right next to the reply and quote buttons.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Ya I think it has gotten a little above my skill level but I am learning a lot and getting better everyday. i think it's just a very long loop with a lot of right angles. I am going to try and shorten it and reduce right angles.
> 
> The pump is under the res in the bottom compartment so it goes - res>>down to pump>>up to monsta rad in top compartment>>vrm block>>cpu block>>chipset block>>gpu blocks>>down to rad in bottom compartment>>then to the rad in the flex bays>>then back to res.
> 
> I think I sent the coolant up and down too many times. That coupled with a lot of components and a ton of right angles I think just caused pressure to build up instead of the coolant making it to the end of the loop and the pressure just back up really violentely into the res.
> 
> Because I blew on all the components individually and nothing was clogged.


I see. That is definitely unnecessary complex loop IMO. I think better like this:-
res >> pump >> bottom rad >> GPUs >> chipset block >> CPU >> VRMs >> top rad >> front rad >> res

What do you think? The tube will be a lot shorter.

BTW, I just want to show you that I multi-reply the posts ^^^^. Just click "Multi" button at the posts you want to reply & finally click "Post a Reply" button when you're ready to write your reply. [EDIT] Look like you already got the idea.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I see. That is definitely unnecessary complex loop IMO. I think better like this:-
> res >> pump >> bottom rad >> GPUs >> chipset block >> CPU >> VRMs >> top rad >> front rad >> res
> 
> What do you think? The tube will be a lot shorter.
> 
> BTW, I just want to show you that I multi-reply the posts ^^^^. Just click "Multi" button at the posts you want to reply & finally click "Post a Reply" button when you're ready to write your reply. [EDIT] Look like you already got the idea.


Ya that does sound like a much better idea. I thought of something similar but the way that would work the best is by entering the gpu bridge on the bottom right and exiting out the top.

Is it ok to go in the bottom and out the top with a parallel gpu bridge. Thats the only thing I was worried about.


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I see. That is definitely unnecessary complex loop IMO. I think better like this:-
> res >> pump >> bottom rad >> GPUs >> chipset block >> CPU >> VRMs >> top rad >> front rad >> res
> 
> What do you think? The tube will be a lot shorter.
> 
> BTW, I just want to show you that I multi-reply the posts ^^^^. Just click "Multi" button at the posts you want to reply & finally click "Post a Reply" button when you're ready to write your reply. [EDIT] Look like you already got the idea.


I agree for the most part. Personally I like to design my loop to be as close to a "circle" as possible. When your loop doubles back on itself a lot, you're adding extra length and in my mind more complexity. I have no data to back it up, but my gut tells me the easier the path the water has, the more flow I'll have and the pump won't have to work as hard.

Personally I'd throw the front rad in the lower chamber and place the pump directly under the res if possible. Then it'll be much simpler.

res > pump > lower rads > gpu > top rad > vrm > cpu > chipset > res

I know fighting too much with your pc during builds or overclocking takes the fun out of it sometimes, but that's part of the hobby. When it's all up and running perfectly then it's a boring ol' computer.


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Ya that does sound like a much better idea. I thought of something similar but the way that would work the best is by entering the gpu bridge on the bottom right and exiting out the top.
> 
> Is it ok to go in the bottom and out the top with a parallel gpu bridge. Thats the only thing I was worried about.


That's how my frankenstein loop is currently running. two GPUs in parallel with flow entering the lower gpu and making a arc back down to the lower gpu again. No difference in card temps, but that's not at all a scientific claim as I have different blocks, gpus at different clocks (same voltage), and different asic quality.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Ya that does sound like a much better idea. I thought of something similar but the way that would work the best is by entering the gpu bridge on the bottom right and exiting out the top.
> 
> Is it ok to go in the bottom and out the top with a parallel gpu bridge. Thats the only thing I was worried about.


I think that would work ok with parallel. With the liquid travel opposite to the gravity, it would prevent the air pocket from trapping inside the GPU block, don't you think?

Also, if possible, run the pump at lower speed. At least you have plenty time to turn off the pump when you see liquid build-up in the reservoir.


----------



## subsven

+1 on the boring 'ok computer part, lol.

You're right about the loop complexity though. If you've ever read pump specs you've probably seen something related to head pressure. In the simplest of terms this is how high up, in feet, a pump can push water.

For example, a pump with 12 feet of head pressure can pump water vertically (assuming a length of tubing run straight up to the ceiling) 12 feet high. In more practical terms, this means that if you go up 2 feet, down 2 feet, up 2 feet, you're already talking 4 feet of head loss, ignoring block restriction, etc.

This is why I went with the MCP-35x2 right off the bat, 35 feet of head pressure.


----------



## Chomuco

:thumb:New Titan block


----------



## Mrxxxxxxxxxx17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you looked at our MCRES Micro? It's about 26 bucks and should suit your needs pretty well.


it looks nice and it's not too big but it's still 25$ + shipping to italy :\


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:New Titan block


Link?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Wow that's really nice. It's wierd though because all the components on the card look black.
> 
> I wish these blocks would fully cover the pcb. I'm not saying my EK XXL block looks the best but I love how it covers every inch of the card.
> 
> Also I just realized how important backplates are. Some coolant leaked on my backplate and probably saved my card.












Thought everyone just got done explaining this to you. Hit the "edit" button to add this quote to the one above.
But anyway, not trying to rag on ya.
All of the components on the PCB are black because that's not a real photo, it's a render.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:New Titan block
> 
> 
> 
> Link?
Click to expand...

Its just a render......

In other news.
No more Titan only loveliness,680's are getting in on it!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Its just a render......*
> 
> In other news.
> No more Titan only loveliness,680's are getting in on it!


I said that above -__-
Asking for a link to whatever site that might have been posted on. As in, if it was featured in some kind of article or something...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Link?


Colorful iGame is a videocard lineup in Asia. They do not sell the cards anywhere else as far as I know. I wouldn't expect to see the block for sale.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> iGame is a videocard manufacturer in Asia. They do not sell the cards anywhere else as far as I know. I wouldn't expect to see the block for sale.


OK, very good.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought everyone just got done explaining this to you. Hit the "edit" button to add this quote to the one above.
> But anyway, not trying to rag on ya.
> All of the components on the PCB are black because that's not a real photo, it's a render.


Sorry I didn't realize I was supposed to combine totally unrelated posts. I will stop posting now.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice.


----------



## lowfat

This is why I buy HWLabs. Absolutely flawless fins.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130515-_MG_3409.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130515-_MG_3410.jpg.html


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> This is why I buy HWLabs. Absolutely flawless fins.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130515-_MG_3409.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/20130515-_MG_3410.jpg.html


I am a big HWL fan,the build quality is fantastic and the performance is there too with good rads at each end of the scale,silence v performance


----------



## Jameswalt1

Took around 20 new photo's here's a few


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its just a render......
> 
> In other news.
> No more Titan only loveliness,680's are getting in on it!


And that more than any other factor is why I want to replace my 7970's. Those blocks are just stunning.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Took around 20 new photo's here's a few
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I see the red!!!! I see the red!!!! lol just kidding man. Absolutely awesome man. I've been lurking on your build log pretty much since you started. You have some serious talent! Good stuff. I hope my build comes out that good!


----------



## illuz

Incredible build, wow.


----------



## GEARjmr

That's a thing of beauty JW1, makes mine look, well minimal...lol...job well done!! But I had a helluva lot of fun tearin' it down and remodelling it. Seemed a lot of time was spent watin' for paint to dry. A great learning experience for a water coolin' noob like me.


----------



## OkanG

Ordered WC parts for my sig rig, see you in a couple of days!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am a big HWL fan,the build quality is fantastic and the performance is there too with good rads at each end of the scale,silence v performance


Agreed. I was a bit surprised that there aren't more HL rads around here...


----------



## cruisant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Agreed. I was a bit surprised that there aren't more HL rads around here...


Looks like NCIX has these rads stashed somewhere







Might pick up a 560 SR1 later on. Great pics lowfat, these rads are something else
 








http://us.ncix.com/search/?categoryid=0&q=hardware+labs


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GEARjmr*
> 
> That's a thing of beauty JW1, makes mine look, well minimal...lol...job well done!! But I had a helluva lot of fun tearin' it down and remodelling it. Seemed a lot of time was spent watin' for paint to dry. A great learning experience for a water coolin' noob like me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very Nicely done sir!







How exactly did you color the fans just spray paint and wait a few days I suppose? or what kind of paint?


----------



## superericla

Updates to my current build:


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Updates to my current build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


is that a 400ml res?! I hope not as I want 2 of them... will need to change to 250ml if that is one.... holy camolies


----------



## MiiX

I think you can fit 4 mobos in there, and still have space for everything inside the case.

Looks nice tho


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> is that a 400ml res?! I hope not as I want 2 of them... will need to change to 250ml if that is one.... holy camolies


It's an Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 50 LT, specifically.

Edit: It's a 500mm reservoir.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It's an Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 50 LT, specifically.


Will need to look... I was wanting 2 400ml Quad helix black res's from FrozenQ, but they only come in 250ml so just wondering exactly how long they would be is all


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Updates to my current build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That res


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That res


Haha, that's a great GIF. It's the largest reservoir that can physically fit in the ST10 without any modifications, and with mounting the pump directly to the reservoir.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Updates to my current build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that res looks like a colored florescent light bulb. 48" t12 34watts?
> 
> but it does look mighty fine in that case. now just to get bigger components to match the scale of the res.


----------



## GEARjmr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Very Nicely done sir!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How exactly did you color the fans just spray paint and wait a few days I suppose? or what kind of paint?


Thanks Valgaur, yup, took out the blades (watch out for the little spring clips holdin' the fan shaft in, cuz if ya lose one of these off the GTAP15s its gone for good...lol...plastic primered and used an acrylic enamel.


----------



## wermad

Impressive color combo!!!!


----------



## cruisant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GEARjmr*
> 
> Thanks Valgaur, yup, took out the blades (watch out for the little spring clips holdin' the fan shaft in, cuz if ya lose one of these off the GTAP15s its gone for good...lol...plastic primered and used an acrylic enamel.


Beautiful contrast of black and blue







Good job Gear


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Is there a tutorial on taking apart fans to paint them?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Is there a tutorial on taking apart fans to paint them?


http://www.overclock.net/t/493987/guide-paint-your-fans-uv

The removal of the blade will depend on your model. not all fans are built this way. Keep that in mind and good luck


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GEARjmr*
> 
> Thanks Valgaur, yup, took out the blades (watch out for the little spring clips holdin' the fan shaft in, cuz if ya lose one of these off the GTAP15s its gone for good...lol...plastic primered and used an acrylic enamel.


No problem! Thansk or the tips on the enamel and those bugger clips as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/493987/guide-paint-your-fans-uv
> 
> The removal of the blade will depend on your model. not all fans are built this way. Keep that in mind and good luck


Beat me to the question


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Took around 20 new photo's here's a few
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Loving this build the more I see it. Awesome work.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GEARjmr*
> 
> That's a thing of beauty JW1, makes mine look, well minimal...lol...job well done!! But I had a helluva lot of fun tearin' it down and remodelling it. Seemed a lot of time was spent watin' for paint to dry. A great learning experience for a water coolin' noob like me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet build and that mobo.


----------



## Chomuco




----------



## FlashGordon

test for uploading youTube ,,,, sory,,


----------



## FlashGordon

ohhhh,,,no,,, sorry for duplication of movie,,,,


----------



## Bucshman

Does anyone know where I can find a silver nickel plated female to female G1/4 bushing? I need one for a drain line and I can only find them available in the UK.


----------



## Bucshman

Does anyone know where I can find a silver nickel plated female to female G1/4 bushing? I need one for a drain line and I can only find them available in the UK.
Sorry for double post stupid iPhone


----------



## ToothBear

wcuk has some: http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/Other-Fittings_53.html


----------



## andre02

Sorry to post here off topic, but it's kind of about this thread.

Can i "unread" this thread so that it goes again from the first page or to start from page 3800 again, i accidentally went to the last page, and now everytime i go to it it goes to the last page. And i want to read from page 3800 through to the end. So that when i press this thread to go to the 3800th page ?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Sorry to post here off topic, but it's kind of about this thread.
> 
> Can i "unread" this thread so that it goes again from the first page or to start from page 3800 again, i accidentally went to the last page, and now everytime i go to it it goes to the last page. And i want to read from page 3800 through to the end. So that when i press this thread to go to the 3800th page ?


at the bottom of the page, right under the "post a reply" and "start a new thread" buttons, there is an "unread posts" link. If you click that, it should take you to where you left off


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Sorry to post here off topic, but it's kind of about this thread.
> 
> Can i "unread" this thread so that it goes again from the first page or to start from page 3800 again, i accidentally went to the last page, and now everytime i go to it it goes to the last page. And i want to read from page 3800 through to the end. So that when i press this thread to go to the 3800th page ?


Or you could click the little dots and go straight to whatever page you want to start with.









But really, next time this type of question should not be posted here and you should create a separate thread for help.


----------



## Takla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Sorry to post here off topic, but it's kind of about this thread.
> 
> Can i "unread" this thread so that it goes again from the first page or to start from page 3800 again, i accidentally went to the last page, and now everytime i go to it it goes to the last page. And i want to read from page 3800 through to the end. So that when i press this thread to go to the 3800th page ?


book mark the page you later wanna continue to read with your browser


----------



## andre02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> at the bottom of the page, right under the "post a reply" and "start a new thread" buttons, there is an "unread posts" link. If you click that, it should take you to where you left off


Ok, but it takes me to the last page, just because i pressed one time on the last page and shows only 3 unread posts, not to page 3800, showing 500 unread posts, and i don't know how to revert that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Or you could click the little dots and go straight to whatever page you want to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really, next time this type of question should not be posted here and you should create a separate thread for help.


It still takes a longer time, first taking me to the last page then i have to type the page,etc.., and.. ,the actual problem is that i don't rememember on which page i left off and i have to search several pages every time to figure it out.

Thanks and just let me know if you know a fix, maybe in pm if it's too much off topic, if else i will start another thread in the help thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

unsubcribe then try again


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GEARjmr*
> 
> That's a thing of beauty JW1, makes mine look, well minimal...lol...job well done!! But I had a helluva lot of fun tearin' it down and remodelling it. Seemed a lot of time was spent watin' for paint to dry. A great learning experience for a water coolin' noob like me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Curious to see if there's a reason you didn't mount the top radiator with the inlet/outlet at the rear? Your tubing would have stayed more confined to the area between the reservoir and the back of the case. That's the only flaw I could even try to come up with in this build. Very very well done overall.


----------



## GEARjmr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Curious to see if there's a reason you didn't mount the top radiator with the inlet/outlet at the rear? Your tubing would have stayed more confined to the area between the reservoir and the back of the case. That's the only flaw I could even try to come up with in this build. Very very well done overall.


Thanks much mavisky, I am still experimenting with this build and a few changes will be made. I was lookin' for the shortest and straightest runs possible. I'm now thinking along the lines of maybe chrome steel tubing with blue fittings or something like that. I'm certainly happy that you like what I've done so far, its a great hobby and I'm really gettin' into it...lol.


----------



## skyn3t

NM...


----------



## Michalius

Some pics from my build log.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find a silver nickel plated female to female G1/4 bushing? I need one for a drain line and I can only find them available in the UK.


http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c101/s744/list/p2/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Accessories-Fitting_Adapters-Page2.html?o=title_az

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c101/s1354/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Accessories-Fitting_Extenders-Page1.html


----------



## GEARjmr

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Michalius* 

Some pics from my build log.


> Dang nice collection of fittings bro!


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c101/s744/list/p2/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Accessories-Fitting_Adapters-Page2.html?o=title_az
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c101/s1354/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Accessories-Fitting_Extenders-Page1.html


Not sure how I missed those, thanks!


----------



## illuz




----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*


WOW!!


----------



## kcuestag

After RMA'ing my motherboard, and one of the HD7970's, I finally completed my build:



Not a perfect loop/design but I am very happy with it.


----------



## ltulod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> It sucks too because I found some pictures before I was fully done and before I started filling it. It looked so nice. I am so mad right now I can't even look at my computer it makes me so sick.


I know exactly what went wrong why the water exploded back out the reservoir....

You change your configuration to angle fittings, I've done it before, when you do this, the flow will be much slower and bleeding is much slower. The proper way of doing it is fill it halfway at a time and turn off psu power as soon as you see that the res is empty and fill it halfway again...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> EK Water Blocks and Aquatuning go separate ways.
> 
> With effect from 17.05.2013, the management of Aquatuning has decided to drop all EKWB products from the webshop. In 2007 and following years Aquatuning developed many products for EK Water Blocks under license and technology agreements among other products the EK Supreme CPU block, which immediately became the new No. 1 CPU water block. After many years of successful collaboration, EK Water Blocks surprisingly decided to stop the payment of the licenses to Aquatuning.


http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=259775

Oh dear,first they accuse Bundy of favoring German manu's then Sidewinders stops selling EK gear....now this...wow...just wow.


----------



## Killa Cam

what is going on with ek?


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> After RMA'ing my motherboard, and one of the HD7970's, I finally completed my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a perfect loop/design but I am very happy with it.


Just curious, what tubing is that?
Nice build, by the way.


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

So I'm thinking of adding more stuff to my watercooling project in my cosmos 2. Currently I only have one 480rad and one cpu block with a res/pump combo, and I'm wondering, if I add 2 or 3 rads and 2 or 3 gfx blocks is it necessary to have a dual pump or will one pump be strong enough to get a decent flow?


----------



## macandy13

See if you added mayhems pastel concentrate to the premixed stuff would it darken the colour to a degree that I would prefer?

It's the mint green colour I'm interested in but i would prefer it to be a shade or to darker.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Just curious, what tubing is that?
> Nice build, by the way.


It's Masterkleer PVC red (19/13mm).

Thanks, really like the outcome after all.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> See if you added mayhems pastel concentrate to the premixed stuff would it darken the colour to a degree that I would prefer?
> 
> It's the mint green colour I'm interested in but i would prefer it to be a shade or to darker.


Yes it will.


----------



## Pawelr98

What's the most silent D5 top ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> So I'm thinking of adding more stuff to my watercooling project in my cosmos 2. Currently I only have one 480rad and one cpu block with a res/pump combo, and I'm wondering, if I add 2 or 3 rads and 2 or 3 gfx blocks is it necessary to have a dual pump or will one pump be strong enough to get a decent flow?


Redundancy is never a bad thing. It will depend on what pump it is though and how constrictive those blocks are. Radiators tend to not be very constrictive, so it won't really matter about those. Just to be on the safe side though I would get a second pump to improve your flow rate/ head pressure, and just for peace of mind.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*


Was exactly what I was going for!


----------



## illuz

Childhood flashed before my eyes when I seen it, crash bandicoot 2 was the first game I ever played


----------



## PedroC1999

Guys, how and for how long should I flush my rads for? Cost effective way please


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yes it will.


Thanks, thought so but I thought it would be better to check


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> After RMA'ing my motherboard, and one of the HD7970's, I finally completed my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a perfect loop/design but I am very happy with it.


Now you just need backplates and then you are "done"









Jeffinslaw


----------



## strong island 1

Finally got evrything running. I took everything apart and shortened the lines and it seems ok. It didn't turn out exactly how I wanted. My custom extensions were dyed pink from the explosion so I didn't use those and I ran out of some fittings but after everything that happened I am really happy. I just took some really fast pics last night. I gotta get better ones once I clean or get new cables and fittings..



I had just added the coolant before I took the pics so the res looks a little funny but after running overnight it's all an even color now. I was so nervous while filling. I filled it and actually got another leak out of the extension on the cpu block and I was so sick. But I realized it wasn't tightened enough so I tightened it and everything ran overnight with no leaks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Finally got evrything running. I took everything apart and shortened the lines and it seems ok. It didn't turn out exactly how I wanted. My custom extensions were dyed pink from the explosion so I didn't use those and I ran out of some fittings but after everything that happened I am really happy. I just took some really fast pics last night. I gotta get better ones once I clean or get new cables and fittings..


That looks great and I'm glad you were able to get everything working.









I'm curious about one thing though. Why is your front intake set up as exhaust? Just curious.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Finally got evrything running. I took everything apart and shortened the lines and it seems ok. It didn't turn out exactly how I wanted. My custom extensions were dyed pink from the explosion so I didn't use those and I ran out of some fittings but after everything that happened I am really happy. I just took some really fast pics last night. I gotta get better ones once I clean or get new cables and fittings..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just added the coolant before I took the pics so the res looks a little funny but after running overnight it's all an even color now. I was so nervous while filling. I filled it and actually got another leak out of the extension on the cpu block and I was so sick. But I realized it wasn't tightened enough so I tightened it and everything ran overnight with no leaks.


Interested to know why you have both sides of the front rad as push?


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks great and I'm glad you were able to get everything working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious about one thing though. Why is your front intake set up as exhaust? Just curious.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interested to know why you have both sides of the front rad as push?


I know you guys think I'm retarted and I know it's wierd but actually only the fans on the front are pushing. The fans on the inside of the rad were just for the looks and aren't running. I know that blocks a lot of air but I didn't like the look of just a bare rad on the inside. I am probably just going to buy or design and rad grille. The corsair fans only have rings on one side and I wanted them to show in the front of the case and on the inside. I will probably just flip the front fans around because you can't see the rings thru the front of the case that well anyway.

That front flex bay rad was really just for looks. The STH10 is so huge and I have the xxl window and with nothing there it looks really empty. The monsta 480 and rx360 are plenty for my system but I'm sure the third rx360 still helps a little even with fans on one side not running.

I still have a lot of changes to make but I bought my titans when they first came out and haven't even gamed with them yet. With everything that happened I haven't had my computer forever so I was just really anxious to put it back together.

Now I can refine the looks a little bit. I think I want to try mayhems pastel red instead of ek red.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Guys, how and for how long should I flush my rads for? Cost effective way please


I set my rads and pump up in a way so that I can use the sink. A double sink works really well too. I start with hot water and when it start to get cool I drain a bit and add more.. Then I will drain a bit more and add some vinegar and you can really see it get clean then. I will do that for a while then slowly drain and add distilled water. When I am sure its like 90% dist water I will run for an hour or so. You can set up a small baking sieve to or something to catch the gunk so it doesnt keep circulating but as you drain the sink the stuff goes down anyways. Also dont use too much vinegar. About 9 : 1 ratio to keep it safe.

It can be tricky getting the pump going at first ( for me at least. ) but after a little balancing act you can get it started. once the sink is filled I set the tap up to the running water to fill it up and then turn on the pump and quickly set the hose in the water and it should start pumping.

This may sound like going totally overboard but I had seen some nasty stuff in my blocks from not properly rinsing.

You can also get an adapter from a plumbing store that matches your id of your tubing and screws right on to your tap so you dont have to use a pump at all.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I know you guys think I'm retarted and I know it's wierd but actually only the fans on the front are pushing. The fans on the inside of the rad were just for the looks and aren't running. I know that blocks a lot of air but I didn't like the look of just a bare rad on the inside. I am probably just going to buy or design and rad grille. The corsair fans only have rings on one side and I wanted them to show in the front of the case and on the inside. I will probably just flip the front fans around because you can't see the rings thru the front of the case that well anyway


Here, I need to school you on Corsair fan aesthetics. Glad to see it all done btw.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=118130


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Here, I need to school you on Corsair fan aesthetics. Glad to see it all done btw.
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=118130


Cool man. Thanks for the tip. Plus rep.

I still have to make a lot of changes but I really wanted to game this weekend with my titans so I needed to get it done last night.

I might even go back to more of a loop look because I am not sure if I like all the right angled fittings.

I just thought it was cool to have so many blocks and still keep it kinda clean and minimal.

I love the big res though. I also really want the mayhems pastel red. I don't like the see thru kind of look of the ek red. I think the pastel stands out in the clear tubing much better.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Cool man. Thanks for the tip. Plus rep.
> 
> I still have to make a lot of changes but I really wanted to game this weekend with my titans so I needed to get it done last night.
> 
> I might even go back to more of a loop look because I am not sure if I like all the right angled fittings.
> 
> I just thought it was cool to have so many blocks and still keep it kinda clean and minimal.
> 
> I love the big res though. I also really want the mayhems pastel red. I don't like the see thru kind of look of the ek red. I think the pastel stands out in the clear tubing much better.


wait, didnt u have a pair of 680 ftws in a cosmos 2 right? man, u really went big


----------



## ltulod

Ok here is mine on sm8 white case, just waiting on sleeve cable set from moddyi.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> wait, didnt u have a pair of 680 ftws in a cosmos 2 right? man, u really went big


Ya I did but once I got into watercooling the Cosmos wasn't enough. I really want to sell it or maybe build a second rig. I sold my 680's for a good price with the blocks to buy the titans. I have gotten so addicted to buying hardware.

I started out with a $1,200.00 build for my first custom computer maybe 7 months ago and I kept returning things and rebuilding and it turned into this.

This was my cosmos with the rad sticking out the top. I hated it. This was just a couple months ago. I think I have improved my skill a lot. I still have a lot of improving to do.

This was my very first loop a few months ago.


----------



## strong island 1

I thought this would make people laugh so I had to make a separate post. I finally found a name for my computer. With red liquid exploding it sounded appropriate.

VOLCANO


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Ya I did but once I got into watercooling the Cosmas wasn't enough. I really want to sell it or maybe build a second rig. I sold my 680's for a good price with the blocks to buy the titans. I have gotten so addicted to buying hardware.
> 
> I started out with a $1,000.00 for my first custom computer not even a year ago and I kept returning things and rebuilding and it turned into this.


lol i feel u man. i started from a 30 dollar cooler master hyper 212 evo to easily over a grand on a custom loop. oh the looks my girl gives me on this expensive hobby is priceless. the cosmos was huge, but didn't seem to provide enough rad space without modifying. i got my 680s for a steal, so i returned my 7970 ghz. i like caselabs, but i'm not too fond of the squared box look. i hope and pray they make smooth curved edged cases similar to the fractal arc midi 2. id easily invest in one, but i love the aspect of modding. im still learning with my fulmo gt, buts soo fun.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> lol i feel u man. i started from a 30 dollar cooler master hyper 212 evo to easily over a grand on a custom loop. oh the looks my girl gives me on this expensive hobby is priceless. the cosmos was huge, but didn't seem to provide enough rad space without modifying. i got my 680s for a steal, so i returned my 7970 ghz. i like caselabs, but i'm not too fond of the squared box look. i hope and pray they make smooth curved edged cases similar to the fractal arc midi 2. id easily invest in one, but i love the aspect of modding. im still learning with my fulmo gt, buts soo fun.


My whole family and friends think i am insane. I just realized that first picture of my cosmos was my very first loop and it was just a couple months ago. i can't believe how my loop has evolved.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Cool man. Thanks for the tip. Plus rep.
> 
> I still have to make a lot of changes but I really wanted to game this weekend with my titans so I needed to get it done last night.
> 
> I might even go back to more of a loop look because I am not sure if I like all the right angled fittings.
> 
> I just thought it was cool to have so many blocks and still keep it kinda clean and minimal.
> 
> I love the big res though. I also really want the mayhems pastel red. I don't like the see thru kind of look of the ek red. I think the pastel stands out in the clear tubing much better.


No prob. The tall res offsets the open space you have in that Case labs case. I'm also upgrading to a 250 from my current 150 res. Most guys I've seen that ran pastel red coolant always looked pink. I'd rather keep the clear. But that's my opinion...


----------



## strong island 1

Hey guys has anyone ever gotten random restarts after redoing your loop or having a leak. I keep getting random hard restarts.

Could it be my hard drive got wet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Hey guys has anyone ever gotten random restarts after redoing your loop or having a leak. I keep getting random hard restarts.
> 
> Could it be my hard drive got wet.


no bsod or debug code/led?


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> no bsod or debug code/led?


The debug codes are the same as usual. It says AA right now. I am in windows now and everything runs perfect. All temps ok. I tested the memory with windows memory diag and another memory diagnostic tool and no issues.

When putting the computer back together I had removed a back panel from my motherboard tray which I thought was only part of the tech station. Now that I look it looks too exposed. I just put the panel back and changed a sata cable that could have gotten wet.

I'm wondering if it was the panel I removed. it was the only thing I did different this time. Right now I have been running 30min without restart but sometimes it takes a couple hours.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> The debug codes are the same as usual. It says AA right now. I am in windows now and everything runs perfect. All temps ok. I tested the memory with windows memory diag and another memory diagnostic tool and no issues.
> 
> When putting the computer back together I had removed a back panel from my motherboard tray which I thought was only part of the tech station. Now that I look it looks too exposed. I just put the panel back and changed a sata cable that could have gotten wet.
> 
> I'm wondering if it was the panel I removed. it was the only thing I did different this time. Right now I have been running 30min without restart but sometimes it takes a couple hours.


Its just rebooting? try safe mode and see if shuts down there. I'm leaning on a mb issue, but I'm not 100% sure. Does it happen in the bios menu?


----------



## sakerfalcon

Does anyone know the fitting parts where it passes through the aluminum midpanel? (Circled in red)



(Build is Saate's Massively from OCAU)

The top is C47 silver, then spacer? What's the bottom part?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Does anyone know the fitting parts where it passes through the aluminum midpanel? (Circled in red)
> 
> (Build is Saate's Massively from OCAU)
> 
> The top is C47 silver, then spacer? What's the bottom part?


BP-WTP-C04

And it is my opinion that every single build that has a mid plate or where tubing passes to the exterior of the case, use these.


----------



## morencyam

Looks like a bitspower bulkhead/passthrough/fillport fitting.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys, quick question. What size male to male fitting do I need for this amount of space between my GPU's.


This one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=33973

or this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=34042

I'm going to be using these blocks for my 7950's
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1144_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ATXP-ATI-7970-50-Serie-V2---Edelstahl-poliert---Schwarz.html

I'm online and about to purchase one, but I want to be sure first. Thanks!


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question. What size male to male fitting do I need for this amount of space between my GPU's.
> 
> This one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=33973
> 
> or this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=33973
> 
> I'm going to be using these blocks for my 7950's
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1144_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ATXP-ATI-7970-50-Serie-V2---Edelstahl-poliert---Schwarz.html
> 
> I'm online and about to purchase one, but I want to be sure first. Thanks!


Those are the same fittings and the same links.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Those are the same fittings and the same links.


oh crap the other ones I meant to list are these

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=34042

I edited it in my original post


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question. What size male to male fitting do I need for this amount of space between my GPU's.
> 
> 
> This one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=33973
> 
> or this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=34042
> 
> I'm going to be using these blocks for my 7950's
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1144_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ATXP-ATI-7970-50-Serie-V2---Edelstahl-poliert---Schwarz.html
> 
> I'm online and about to purchase one, but I want to be sure first. Thanks!


You are using max v extreme from what I can see
Think the 20-33mm one will do

Man that swiftech look really good


----------



## ajs89

my first post in this thread







,and here is my first wc pc:


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> You are using max v extreme from what I can see
> Think the 20-33mm one will do
> 
> Man that swiftech look really good


Alright thanks a lot REP for you good sir.

I know they are very sexy. They will look perfect with those sexy Alphacool blocks. Sexy + sexy = VERY SEXY


----------



## kj1060

This may be a stupid question, but is there standard spacing between pci-e slots? I am trying to figure out which size D-Plugs I need for 3 7970s on the Big Bang X-Power II.


----------



## crazymofo




----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> BP-WTP-C04
> 
> And it is my opinion that every single build that has a mid plate or where tubing passes to the exterior of the case, use these.


Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> This may be a stupid question, but is there standard spacing between pci-e slots? I am trying to figure out which size D-Plugs I need for 3 7970s on the Big Bang X-Power II.


PCI spacing is standardized. For Slot 1, 3, 5 Crossfire/SLI, you'll need BP-MBWP-C07 (black) or BP-WTP-C07 (silver). Here's them being used:

http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092133


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PCI spacing is standardized. For Slot 1, 3, 5 Crossfire/SLI, you'll need BP-MBWP-C07 (black) or BP-WTP-C07 (silver). Here's them being used:
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092133


Depends on the block's thickness. I have the 1" ones, worked great on my DD blocks, not on my ek blocks.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Is monsoon ever going to ship out anymore of these premium LED plugs in red?? They have been sold out for so long. Screw it, I'll get an alphacool one for now.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajs89*
> 
> my first post in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,and here is my first wc pc:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmm, reminds me of my build!











I'm definitely switching over to white led's. Red's give no contrast...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Hmmm, reminds me of my build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm definitely switching over to white led's. Red's give no contrast...


Agreed. I'm using a red LED to light up the reservoir and then a white cold cathode to light up the case and I'm going to stick a white LED strip hidden at the bottom of the front panel so you can see it glowing through the front fan panel.


----------



## joostflux

I have a quick question for you guys. I currently have a 240mm NexXxos Monsta rad and it has six ports where I can put fittings. Is there any reason I couldn't put one fitting on say the front for inlet and use a fitting directly out the top for the outlet? Sorry if that's a stupid question, I just didn't want to start a new thread for something like this.

This is the rad in question (even though I'm sure most of you already know it)



Thanks in advance!


----------



## sakerfalcon

It doesn't matter if inlet/outlet ports don't face the same direction, but inlet must be one of the three, and outlet must be one of the other three. In the above picture's orientation, the top three and bottom three. The lone port on the left can be a drain port or fill port if you desire so.


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> It doesn't matter if inlet/outlet ports don't face the same direction, but inlet must be one of the three, and outlet must be one of the other three. In the above picture's orientation, the top three and bottom three. The lone port on the left can be a drain port or fill port if you desire so.


Perfect, thanks for the quick reply! +Rep


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quick question : Does the pump just need to be after the reservoir or does it literally need to be under it?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Just next in line, but directly below is helpful in some cases - like a gravity feed of sorts... doesn't really matter though cuz the pump will suck it down regardless.


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Just next in line, but directly below is helpful in some cases - like a gravity feed of sorts... doesn't really matter though cuz the pump will suck it down regardless.


Do I have to do anything special when I fill the loop then? Or will the water just get sucked up the tubing by the pump? Cause there won't be any water in the pump in the beginning so I don't know how it'll start


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Do I have to do anything special when I fill the loop then? Or will the water just get sucked up the tubing by the pump? Cause there won't be any water in the pump in the beginning so I don't know how it'll start


you should have the pump lower than the res, as first you fill the res and the water should flow down the tube to the pump. Turn the pump on briefly until the res is almost empty. then fill again and turn on pump briefly again, and repeat until full.

As long as your pump is after the res in the loop and it is below the res and there is not a mile of tubing between them you should not have issue


----------



## golfergolfer

My little plug for my build log in Compact Splash:



If anyone likes this there is more at:

[Build Log] C O M P A C T - S P L A S H - 0 0 8 ☜(ﾟヮﾟ☜)


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> you should have the pump lower than the res, as first you fill the res and the water should flow down the tube to the pump. Turn the pump on briefly until the res is almost empty. then fill again and turn on pump briefly again, and repeat until full.
> 
> As long as your pump is after the res in the loop and it is below the res and there is not a mile of tubing between them you should not have issue


Bleh, I guess my setup won't work then :/ If I fill the res water won't reach the pump unfortunately.

Time to figure out a new layout...


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Bleh, I guess my setup won't work then :/ If I fill the res water won't reach the pump unfortunately.
> 
> Time to figure out a new layout...












If it was going to work at all... then it would work - period.

If you have tubing going from the res to the pump... unless the pump is physically HIGHER than the RES... there is no way it would not flow to the pump. Can you be a little clearer on how your planned loop is set up?

As long as the reservoir is above the pump and connected with tubing... it will get there (even if it has to go through a couple of 90 degree bends to do so).

The only alternate to filling the res and running short pump cycles to fill everything else would be to have a radiator with an open port on the top (not being used obviously) or a Y-fitting with a fill tube and plug which you could then fill and let everything work it's way down through the return on the res. Note however, that this will only work if your return is located at the bottom of the res and the fill location is the highest point in your loop. If the return to the res is at the top, or close to it, there might not be enough gravity to get everything returned sufficiently without pump-cycling.

It just seems like you're overthinking this... have you looked at some of the simple loops in this thread?


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it was going to work at all... then it would work - period.
> 
> If you have tubing going from the res to the pump... unless the pump is physically HIGHER than the RES... there is no way it would not flow to the pump. Can you be a little clearer on how your planned loop is set up?
> 
> As long as the reservoir is above the pump and connected with tubing... it will get there (even if it has to go through a couple of 90 degree bends to do so).


Yes, the pump is higher than the res. I have a cylinder type res so the tubing comes out near the bottom and has to go up to the pump.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Yes, the pump is higher than the res. I have a cylinder type res so the tubing comes out near the bottom and has to go up to the pump.


Ah, then yes - you are doing it wrong.









Have a look here.

Basically, everything else can go just about anywhere... but the reservoir must always be above the pump.

Alternately you can do without a reservoir at all... but then your FILL TUBE would have to be above the pump. Essentially you want your pump (and drain if you're using one) at the lowest point in the case... or directly connected/inside the reservoir if it's a bay-res.. other than that it's up to you.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quick question:
For my loop (dual D5 pwm, tripple 180, aquaero waterblock, cpu, gpu) I'm thrown between getting two heatkiller blocks or two aquacomputer blocks.

Pure aesthetically my preference goes to the AquaComputer Kryos HF and the GTX680 kryographics. except for that the lettering on the cpu block would be upside down
However the blocks from aquacomputer are generally quite restrictive (the cpu block is practically twice as restrictive as the heatkiller 3.0) so I'm wondering if I'd still be fine with the D5's tuned down to absolutely silent-mode.

So, what would you guys do? Go for the slightly less good-looking heatkiller blocks which would be not as restrictive (thus more flow at the same pump-setting) or go with the stunning aquacomputer blocks?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quick question:
> For my loop (dual D5 pwm, tripple 180, aquaero waterblock, cpu, gpu) I'm thrown between getting two heatkiller blocks or two aquacomputer blocks.
> 
> Pure aesthetically my preference goes to the AquaComputer Kryos HF and the GTX680 kryographics. except for that the lettering on the cpu block would be upside down
> However the blocks from aquacomputer are generally quite restrictive (the cpu block is practically twice as restrictive as the heatkiller 3.0) so I'm wondering if I'd still be fine with the D5's tuned down to absolutely silent-mode.
> 
> So, what would you guys do? Go for the slightly less good-looking heatkiller blocks which would be not as restrictive (thus more flow at the same pump-setting) or go with the stunning aquacomputer blocks?


I'd say depends on the purpose... if you're looking to get the absolute maximum performance out of it - then aesthetics come second... if you're more interested in a really great looking rig... then maybe you're willing to give up those last few MHz in exchange.

Personally I think the heatkiller blocks are very attractive, but as with all beauty... it's in the eye of the beholder.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> PCI spacing is standardized. For Slot 1, 3, 5 Crossfire/SLI, you'll need BP-MBWP-C07 (black) or BP-WTP-C07 (silver). Here's them being used:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092133


Thanks for the answer, that is what I thought, but I couldn't find anything definitive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Depends on the block's thickness. I have the 1" ones, worked great on my DD blocks, not on my ek blocks.


I am planning on using the HD 7970 Swiftech Komodos, so 14.9mm.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I'd say depends on the purpose... if you're looking to get the absolute maximum performance out of it - then aesthetics come second... if you're more interested in a really great looking rig... then maybe you're willing to give up those last few MHz in exchange.
> 
> Personally I think the heatkiller blocks are very attractive, but as with all beauty... it's in the eye of the beholder.


Thanks! Technically the AquaComputer CPU block would be the best performer. Even though it's more restrictive it still out-performs the Heatkiller block on the same pump setting. However, since it's not a CPU-only loop I have no idea what the impact of the added restriction will be on the CPU temps.
That said, even though 2 D5's aren't two mcp35X's, they still manage to squeeze out 7.7mH2O at full blast. That ought to be enough for 1.5GPM, since at that flowrate the AquaComputer CPU block looses around 3.5mH2O, plenty of head pressure left for the GPU block and rads. At least, that's what I would say.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quick question:
> For my loop (dual D5 pwm, tripple 180, aquaero waterblock, cpu, gpu) I'm thrown between getting two heatkiller blocks or two aquacomputer blocks.
> 
> Pure aesthetically my preference goes to the AquaComputer Kryos HF and the GTX680 kryographics. except for that the lettering on the cpu block would be upside down
> However the blocks from aquacomputer are generally quite restrictive (the cpu block is practically twice as restrictive as the heatkiller 3.0) so I'm wondering if I'd still be fine with the D5's tuned down to absolutely silent-mode.
> 
> So, what would you guys do? Go for the slightly less good-looking heatkiller blocks which would be not as restrictive (thus more flow at the same pump-setting) or go with the stunning aquacomputer blocks?


Well, working with both the Aquacomputer 680 (Lightning) and Heatkiller GPUx3 680 (Hole Edition) Blocks, I can say that I prefer the Heatkiller for the GPU. It's a close call, as the Aquacomputer is leaps and bounds beyond any of the competition (other than Watercool), but in the end the Heatkiller nudges into first place for me.
I would HIGHLY recommend getting a backplate, though, especially with the Heatkiller. The AC blocks are fairly heavy, but the Heatkiller blocks can seriously be used as a weapon! One solid piece of milled copper, and it's about 1Kg!

As for the CPU block, while I own the HK3.0 I have to say it's getting a bit long in the tooth. It simply is outperformed by other, cheaper blocks. I agree that it's a beautiful looking block (I have the copper and silver one), but I simply can't recommend buying it when you can get one of three other far-better-performing blocks for about the same cost. Those three are:
- Swiftech Apogee HD - The best block for LGA2011 (aka X79) chips due to the large surface of the cold plate and the fact it has an extremely mildly bowed base; also has the best mounting system ever devised for ANY CPU Cooler!
- Koolance CPU-380i - Best performance block on the LGA1155 chips, taking back first place from the XSPC Raystorm. Not cheap, but not unreasonable at all.
- XSPC Raystorm + Metal Hold-Down Bracket - If you ditch the plexi hold-down plate and get the one that comes with the "Raystorm Copper", you shave another couple degrees off due to the MUCH more even mount (at least this was the case when I used it on a de-lidded chip). It has a lot of bowing in the base, so it's ideal for LGA1155 but not so much for LGA2011.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

No EK for you huh? Lol...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> No EK for you huh? Lol...


Nor me.....


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Yes, the pump is higher than the res. I have a cylinder type res so the tubing comes out near the bottom and has to go up to the pump.


Then you should seriously rethink that. Why not get a male to male fitting and just screw the pump right onto the bottom of the res? That's what I did.


----------



## AenonElec

*Question.
I'm about to place an order:
Xspc dual bay dual pump combo
Cpu xspc raystorm
Gpu xspc gtx 680 raystorm wb (2 OF THEM)
Radiator: 280mm xspc EX
120mm alphacool UT
120mm alphacool XT
Precessor i7 3770k Oc @ 4.5Ghz
Case CM 690 ii Nvidia advanced edition
Will this be enough to get everything cool?*


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AenonElec*
> 
> *Question.
> I'm about to place an order:
> Xspc dual bay dual pump combo
> Cpu xspc raystorm
> Gpu xspc gtx 680 raystorm wb (2 OF THEM)
> Radiator: 280mm xspc EX
> 120mm alphacool UT
> 120mm alphacool XT
> Precessor i7 3770k Oc @ 4.5Ghz
> Case CM 690 ii Nvidia advanced edition
> Will this be enough to get everything cool?*


Should be.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Totally unrelated, but did you guys know an Eggo waffles box from Costco perfectly stores 16 GTs?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So are you guys absolutely sure this is what I need to connect to my water blocks between my two GPU's? One person said yes, but I want more than one opinion. Thanks









Swiftech G¼ Male-Male Lok-Seal™ Medium Extension Fitting (20-33mm Range) - Black
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33973


----------



## kizwan

^^^ Yes.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Totally unrelated, but did you guys know an Eggo waffles box from Costco perfectly stores 16 GTs?


ROFL









Now thats a handy bit of information right there.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright so I wouldn't need the 41mm to 65mm one for that amount of spacing?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So are you guys absolutely sure this is what I need to connect to my water blocks between my two GPU's? One person said yes, but I want more than one opinion. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech G¼ Male-Male Lok-Seal™ Medium Extension Fitting (20-33mm Range) - Black
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33973


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Alright so I wouldn't need the 41mm to 65mm one for that amount of spacing?


Space between two PCI/PCIe slots are 0.8 inch = 20.32 mm. Your cards are at 1st & 4th slots. Which means the distance between 1st & 4th is 3 x 0.8 inch = 2.4 inch = 60.96 mm

So, for 60mm/2.4 inch PCI spacing, 20-33mm Range is the correct fitting. 41mm to 65mm one is for 3 slots spacing but yours only 2 slots spacing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> The debug codes are the same as usual. It says AA right now. I am in windows now and everything runs perfect. All temps ok. I tested the memory with windows memory diag and another memory diagnostic tool and no issues.
> 
> When putting the computer back together I had removed a back panel from my motherboard tray which I thought was only part of the tech station. Now that I look it looks too exposed. I just put the panel back and changed a sata cable that could have gotten wet.
> 
> I'm wondering if it was the panel I removed. it was the only thing I did different this time. Right now I have been running 30min without restart but sometimes it takes a couple hours.


I had the same issue a few years back with a leak that I thought had ruined everything. I dried everything off and it seemed to run fine. The only issue is that I would get random reboots. It turned out that it was my power supply. Once I replaced it the random reboots went away. I would look at trying another power supply and see if that solves your issue. I would think that if it were your motherboard you'd have much more serious issues than just random reboots. I hope this helps you to track down your issue and I hope you're able to get it resolved.


----------



## nagle3092

Alright guys I have some questions. After order my parts and getting it somewhat together I am getting concerned about the 90 degree barbs I have. If you look at the pics you'll see what I mean. Should I worry if there is some pressure on them, not being perfectly inline. I figured I would give them a try instead of having huge bends in my loop. I have filled my loop pretty high and plugged one end while trying to blow on the other to see if I could get any water to come out of them and it didnt but I just dont get the warm and fuzzy from just a straight barb with a worm clamp. Also the reason why there is slack on the in/out from the bay pump/res is so I can pull it out and access the fill port. I can get to it with it fully seated but its a PITA, so I went the route with some slack in the in/out tubes.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Alright guys I have some questions. After order my parts and getting it somewhat together I am getting concerned about the 90 degree barbs I have. If you look at the pics you'll see what I mean. Should I worry if there is some pressure on them, not being perfectly inline. I figured I would give them a try instead of having huge bends in my loop. I have filled my loop pretty high and plugged one end while trying to blow on the other to see if I could get any water to come out of them and it didnt but I just dont get the warm and fuzzy from just a straight barb with a worm clamp. Also the reason why there is slack on the in/out from the bay pump/res is so I can pull it out and access the fill port. I can get to it with it fully seated but its a PITA, so I went the route with some slack in the in/out tubes.


Great bench so far mate.









I don't think there is nothing to worry about the 90' degree fittings. Fill through ports and bitspower barbs are made tough,

But sometime if your tubing are just 2-3 millimeters too short, it can put to much pressure on the fittings. You can see the rig live, so you are the only one who can tell if you really see the barb having too much pressure.on them (sagging) and if they do, putting a tad longer tubing might solve your possible issue.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Great bench so far mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think there is nothing to worry about the 90' degree fittings. Fill through ports and bitspower barbs are made tough,
> 
> But sometime if your tubing are just 2-3 millimeters too short, it can put to much pressure on the fittings. You can see the rig live, so you are the only one who can tell if you really see the barb having too much pressure.on them (sagging) and if they do, putting a tad longer tubing might solve your possible issue.


Yeah the ones connected to the through ports are sagging a tad which has me worried. I cant use any more tubing though with them because it started to kink with anymore. I'm using the alphacool 90 degree and straight bards though if that matters. Im just wondering if I should change it now so the in/out from the pump are on top of the rads then have straight barbs on bottom of the through parts and do a large bend to the bottom ports on the rad.


----------



## Pawelr98

Cpu wb: MNP Poseidon
GPU wb: Heatkiller 6990 hole edition [Have to buy]
Pump; Laing D5(mp655)
Pump top: Here I need some help.What's the most silent top ?
Rads: 360mm (BlackWater Ultimate 123) 2 x Cooltek 120mm
Any thought's ?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Yeah the ones connected to the through ports are sagging a tad which has me worried. I cant use any more tubing though with them because it started to kink with anymore. I'm using the alphacool 90 degree and straight bards though if that matters. Im just wondering if I should change it now so the in/out from the pump are on top of the rads then have straight barbs on bottom of the through parts and do a large bend to the bottom ports on the rad.


having 'just worm clamps' is pretty good n tight. remember thats whats used in automotive cooling. the pressure buildup from the heat and waterpump cant push a hose off. the hose gets soft as it heats up so i wouldnt worry about it in your loop.


----------



## VWAudiGeek

My first attempt at a custom loop! Crappy cell phone pic...


----------



## Jetskyer

Don't get them too tight though, a (gas converted) T4 leaked a tiny bit of coolant, nothing big but just annoying since the owner had to carry a gallon of coolant with him on longer trips. The mechanic tried to fix it and reaaaaaally tightened it down.
A week later the owner was back because it leaked more, turned out the bard where it leaked before had become oval, not something you want with your expensive BP fittings.

On another note:
Me tried to fit 3x180mm rad in a PowerMac G5 case, possible? meh, not really, but this is the (theoretical) result:



Can't wait to finally start building


----------



## Stateless

Any thoughts on using Monsoon Free center fittings. I am looking at these from FrozenCpu:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16636/ex-tub-1322/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_716ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Blue_FCC-71658-6P-BL.html?tl=g30c569s1763

I never used compression fittings only barbs and am looking at going to compression on my next upgrade but then these caught my eye and am wondering if anyone have used them and how good are they?

Thanks for any feedback.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> having 'just worm clamps' is pretty good n tight. remember thats whats used in automotive cooling. the pressure buildup from the heat and waterpump cant push a hose off. the hose gets soft as it heats up so i wouldnt worry about it in your loop.


I know it wouldnt blow the hose off, Im willing to bet if there was that much pressure in my loop to push a hose off with a worm clamp on it the acryilic res would bust first. What I was concerned about was the construction of the 90 degree fittings since they are not just one piece but 2 fitted together with I'm guessing an o-ring inside of them to keep the seal and allow them to rotate.

I changed it though, I couldnt trust the sagging in them. Now I gotta go get more clamps and finish it for now. Next Im buying 2 XSPC razor blocks for my titans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> not something you want with your expensive BP fittings.


Im using alphacool matte black fittings.


----------



## lilchronic

new full coverage blocks for my 670 FTW's


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> I know it wouldnt blow the hose off, Im willing to bet if there was that much pressure in my loop to push a hose off with a worm clamp on it the acryilic res would bust first. What I was concerned about was the construction of the 90 degree fittings since they are not just one piece but 2 fitted together with I'm guessing an o-ring inside of them to keep the seal and allow them to rotate.
> 
> I changed it though, I couldnt trust the sagging in them. Now I gotta go get more clamps and finish it for now. Next Im buying 2 XSPC razor blocks for my titans.
> Im using alphacool matte black fittings.


Does that pass through port come stock w/ that Dimastech bench?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Does that pass through port come stock w/ that Dimastech bench?


Yeah it attaches to a couple different mounting spots on the back. I figured it would look best in the center though. At first I though you were talking about the xspc bulk heads.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Any thoughts on using Monsoon Free center fittings. I am looking at these from FrozenCpu:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16636/ex-tub-1322/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_716ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Blue_FCC-71658-6P-BL.html?tl=g30c569s1763
> 
> I never used compression fittings only barbs and am looking at going to compression on my next upgrade but then these caught my eye and am wondering if anyone have used them and how good are they?
> 
> Thanks for any feedback.


They are awesome! I have them in black chrome and they are pretty sweet! Very snug. No worrying about leaks with these fittings. The only thing is if you want to tighten them all the way down it will end up turning the tubing with it because it will be so snug so you have to plan for that. Also, when you try to undo it when it is tightened all the way down it usually unscrews from the rad first so then you have to wrestle with the compression part of the fitting and it is extremely hard to get off. To tell you the truth I am going to switch to all Bitspower fittings. If these were a matte black I would keep them, but they are chrome and I got them for free. So basically if you don't mind a little thread showing get these. Even when not tightened down all the way they are very snug.

If you tighten it any more than this you will have to wrestle.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> I know it wouldnt blow the hose off, Im willing to bet if there was that much pressure in my loop to push a hose off with a worm clamp on it the acryilic res would bust first. What I was concerned about was the construction of the 90 degree fittings since they are not just one piece but 2 fitted together with I'm guessing an o-ring inside of them to keep the seal and allow them to rotate.
> 
> I changed it though, I couldnt trust the sagging in them. Now I gotta go get more clamps and finish it for now. Next Im buying 2 XSPC razor blocks for my titans.


You probably overthinking it but nothing wrong with extra cautious when water cooling. I can tell you they will work without any problem. Even worst case scenario if it leaks, you should be able to caught it while leak test & bleeding. I also don't get the warm and fuzzy feelings with one of the connections in my loop which made up of a male-to-male rotary, T-adapter & 45 degrees rotary fittings. The male-to-male rotary adapter sagging a little bit but after 24 hours leak test, there was no problem with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Any thoughts on using Monsoon Free center fittings. I am looking at these from FrozenCpu:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16636/ex-tub-1322/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_716ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Blue_FCC-71658-6P-BL.html?tl=g30c569s1763
> 
> I never used compression fittings only barbs and am looking at going to compression on my next upgrade but then these caught my eye and am wondering if anyone have used them and how good are they?
> 
> Thanks for any feedback.
> 
> 
> 
> They are awesome! I have them in black chrome and they are pretty sweet! Very snug. No worrying about leaks with these fittings. The only thing is if you want to tighten them all the way down it will end up turning the tubing with it because it will be so snug so you have to plan for that. Also, when you try to undo it when it is tightened all the way down it usually unscrews from the rad first so then you have to wrestle with the compression part of the fitting and it is extremely hard to get off. To tell you the truth I am going to switch to all Bitspower fittings. If these were a matte black I would keep them, but they are chrome and I got them for free. So basically if you don't mind a little thread showing get these. Even when not tightened down all the way they are very snug.
> 
> If you tighten it any more than this you will have to wrestle.
Click to expand...

I used them up to 2 weeks now & they're good. Just don't over tighten them especially when using the wrench provided. I over tighten two of them which one I managed to undo them after a lot of swearing but for the other one, I have to cut the tube. After that I just use my thumb & index fingers strength to tighten them.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Any thoughts on using Monsoon Free center fittings. I am looking at these from FrozenCpu:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16636/ex-tub-1322/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_716ID_x_58OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Blue_FCC-71658-6P-BL.html?tl=g30c569s1763
> 
> I never used compression fittings only barbs and am looking at going to compression on my next upgrade but then these caught my eye and am wondering if anyone have used them and how good are they?
> 
> Thanks for any feedback.


I have a mix of Bitspower and Monsoon in my loop (BP Extensions, Male-Male Couplers, Ball-Valve Ports, 45+90deg single/dual rotary adapters, and a couple each of 45+90deg dual/triple rotary compressions, etc; Monsoon fittings used wherever I used the BP Rotary Adapters/Extensions or where I didn't have any other fittings, just the compressions).

My experience is very positive. They are easy to work with, they hold down the PrimoFlex Advanced 1/2x3/4 tubing extremely tightly (I "sacrificed" a fitting by screwing it into a tapped hole in a piece of sheet metal, locking it to a couple bench vises, attaching 4ft of tubing, and pulling as hard as possible and even with my entire body pulling, the tubing never gave out, in fact the threads did!), and they look very nice. Not to mention, they are actually a great deal when you buy them in multi-packs.

That said, while the regular compressions are quite great, I am not so sure about their 45/90 degree fittings.... I just think they look bulky/awkward and kinda ugly :S


----------



## phillyd

Hey guys, remember if you have any questions, problems, requests or need any information about Performance-PC's, ask me!


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys, remember if you have any questions, problems, requests or need any information about Performance-PC's, ask me!


Do you know if you'll be receiving any more EVGA 670 FTW or 680 backplates? I went to go order one and they were gone!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Oh great....









_Now_ I read all this about not overtightening Monsoons the morning after I use four of my six on my new loop, and tightened the dickens out of them!

Hilarious.









Here's the tubing I was speaking of. First time EVER doing a custom loop, criticism is welcome, and yes, I know the bottom looks ******ed.











Thanks - T


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Do you know if you'll be receiving any more EVGA 670 FTW or 680 backplates? I went to go order one and they were gone!


I'll get back to you as soon as I find out.


----------



## PedroC1999

How noisy are AP-15's at full load? In comparison to a SP120 @ 1200RPM?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> How noisy are AP-15's at full load? In comparison to a SP120 @ 1200RPM?


hope you have speakers. you might be able to hear for yourself


----------



## PedroC1999

I will buy some AP-15s in a few days, need to know If I can run them at full speed while having similar noise emission as my SP120s?


----------



## PedroC1999

I will buy some AP-15s in a few days, need to know If I can run them at full speed while having similar noise emission as my SP120s?


----------



## sakerfalcon

Having had both, SP120s are way louder than AP-15s. AP-15s are nearly silent, while SP120 has a very distinct whirring motor noise when ramped up at full speed. They were so loud I had to sell them.


----------



## tecuarenta

UPDATESSS!!!!

GTX670 SLI and new routing



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Few details left but nearly finished


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Having had both, SP120s are way louder than AP-15s. AP-15s are nearly silent, while SP120 has a very distinct whirring motor noise when ramped up at full speed. They were so loud I had to sell them.


Im talking about the [email protected] RPM, are they still louder than AP15s at full?


----------



## Fieldsweeper

What are the best brands out there for CPU GPU and Chipset cooling, and the radiators and pumps / res?? should I go with one brand or do some make better cpu blocks than gpu blocks and vice versa?

for my rig set up that is

I also may do ram cooling. idk yet


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> What are the best brands out there for CPU GPU and Chipset cooling, and the radiators and pumps / res?? should I go with one brand or do some make better cpu blocks than gpu blocks and vice versa?
> 
> for my rig set up that is
> 
> I also may do ram cooling. idk yet


All personal preference. Buy what you find appealing and in your price range..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Im talking about the [email protected] RPM, are they still louder than AP15s at full?


AP15s are not quiet at full speed. They definitely will be louder than any 1200 rpm fan.


----------



## wRRM

I've just assembled my new custom loop this weekend.






The cables is nowhere near done though.

(Would also like to join the club







)


----------



## vwmikeyouhoo




----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> UPDATESSS!!!!
> 
> GTX670 SLI and new routing
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few details left but nearly finished


awsome rig i want mine too look like that








im getting there, this was my first rig and and first time watercooling


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Im talking about the [email protected] RPM, are they still louder than AP15s at full?


currently I have 15 of em running in mine at full speed
but they move alot of air with no doubt
compared to the SP120, the SP120 is louder but the AP15 make some whinny noise at full speed while the AF120 whine is better on ear


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'll get back to you as soon as I find out.


Thanks


----------



## phillyd

Decided to take better pics, more pics and a big update at my *Build Log*


----------



## Namkab

Delete


----------



## phillyd

I need to delid but right now I get about 80C max.
http://valid.canardpc.com/2808076
I also need better TIM.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I need to delid but right now I get about 80C max.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2808076
> I also need better TIM.


mayo does it for you.


----------



## phillyd

huh?


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> huh?


I think he's telling you to use mayonnaise


----------



## phillyd

Ahhaha. AS5, should've done fine. I think I just applied it terribly or something.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Ahhaha. AS5, should've done fine. I think I just applied it terribly or something.


IIRC AS5 has a pretty long curing time, so if you wait a bit the temps should go down (if you recently applied the tim)


----------



## phillyd

Yeah true it's been a couple weeks. I'll check all the various things that could be causing the bad temps. After I delid if they're still too high I'll come back for help.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Yeah true it's been a couple weeks. I'll check all the various things that could be causing the bad temps. After I delid if they're still too high I'll come back for help.


Yeah like you said, it might've been just a bad mount. You might want to consider upgrading since AS5 is outdated now. It still performs great, but there are better and easier to apply thermal pastes now. I actually just ordered some Phobya HeGrease from PPCs last week, so I'm going to test it out as soon as I can. It's supposed to be pretty good. I'll let you know how it performs if you want


----------



## joejoe69

DIY Bitspower Solid SLI Bridge. When green SLI bridges just doesn't go well in any build...




http://www.overclock.net/t/1355177/build-log-project-shift-nzxt-switch-810/150#post_19992148


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> DIY Bitspower Solid SLI Bridge. When green SLI bridges just doesn't go well in any build...
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1355177/build-log-project-shift-nzxt-switch-810/150#post_19992148


very inspiring!
love the ghetto mode, you make me to start thinking some crazy ideas

so the bitspower emblem is just a sticker?


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> very inspiring!
> love the ghetto mode, you make me to start thinking some crazy ideas
> 
> so the bitspower emblem is just a sticker?


Yup. It's one of many badges included with every single purchase or their waterblocks. I finally made use of 1 out of 4 badges.


----------



## WebsterXC

Just got a new case, and my new build is going along wonderfully. I can't decide whether to use two single bay reserviors (for dual loop), or try and cram two 250 tube reserviors next to the motherboard. Anybody have any thoughts on what would look the best?

Also, my current plan is white/light blue/and lavender purple. However a co-worker brought up the idea of white and gold. What do you guys think would look better? Thanks


----------



## ginger_nuts

Two 250 tube res's will look great, side by side, with pumps directly beneath.

White and gold would look fantastic, but if not done right, may look a bit cheap IMO.

Maybe stick with white and blue. I think.


----------



## WebsterXC

I've got two MCP35x pumps and I was planning on mounting them down in the pedestal. You think pumps in the main case area would look better?

The thing I'm worried about with the gold is that I've got a black motherboard with video cards, would it clash with the white case?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Black and white are both neutrals - they can't 'clash' with anything - certainly not with each other. As long as the gold is your only dominant accent color I think it would look just fine. The only place I could see a problem might be with lighting if you're planning that... depending on the materials, lighter colors can look really different from each other under different lights. Not a problem with neutrals or with primaries... but sometimes with pastels or metallics it can be more of an issue.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Just got a new case, and my new build is going along wonderfully. I can't decide whether to use two single bay reserviors (for dual loop), or try and cram two 250 tube reserviors next to the motherboard. Anybody have any thoughts on what would look the best?
> 
> Also, my current plan is white/light blue/and lavender purple. However a co-worker brought up the idea of white and gold. What do you guys think would look better? Thanks


I quite like the V8 and thinking of getting one, I'm also thinking of a dual loop









Be nice to see how yours pans out. I also think you should stick with the blue


----------



## WebsterXC

Well keep in mind its blue and purple, since I've got purple monsoon fittings as well. CPU loop would be pastel blue with the cards behind pastel lavender. I really appreciate the input from you guys it helps so much.

As for the V8 itself, you should get one if you have the money. Its absolutely gorgeous, I've never seen such quality in a case.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Just got a new case, and my new build is going along wonderfully. I can't decide whether to use two single bay reserviors (for dual loop), or try and cram two 250 tube reserviors next to the motherboard. Anybody have any thoughts on what would look the best?
> 
> Also, my current plan is white/light blue/and lavender purple. However a co-worker brought up the idea of white and gold. What do you guys think would look better? Thanks


that case look amazing, really wanna get hold of one
I would go with dual loop for that

the only thing that stopping me to get one is the placement of the rad at the bottom
dont really fancy to sandwich rad


----------



## WebsterXC

The rads actually aren't sandwiched, there is a very impressive amount of space between them (using two EK 480XT).

FrozenCPU sells these cases now if you're really interested in getting one.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Just got a new case, and my new build is going along wonderfully. I can't decide whether to use two single bay reserviors (for dual loop), or try and cram two 250 tube reserviors next to the motherboard. Anybody have any thoughts on what would look the best?
> 
> Also, my current plan is white/light blue/and lavender purple. However a co-worker brought up the idea of white and gold. What do you guys think would look better? Thanks


Build log? This stuff isn't featured in the link in your sig?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Well keep in mind its blue and purple, since I've got purple monsoon fittings as well. CPU loop would be pastel blue with the cards behind pastel lavender. I really appreciate the input from you guys it helps so much.
> 
> As for the V8 itself, you should get one if you have the money. Its absolutely gorgeous, I've never seen such quality in a case.


Yeah it is a really good looking chassis, I'm looking at getting the black with white inside and running a darker shade of the mayhems mint green. Only downside is here in the uk for the chassis, a few spare slot covers and shipping is roughly £500. so its at least a month away yet :L


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Build log? This stuff isn't featured in the link in your sig?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


No build log unfortunately. Little too late to start one as well. I'll post my final pictures here in this thread when it's finished.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> No build log unfortunately. Little too late to start one as well. I'll post my final pictures here in this thread when it's finished.










okay

Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Just got a new case, and my new build is going along wonderfully. I can't decide whether to use two single bay reserviors (for dual loop), or try and cram two 250 tube reserviors next to the motherboard. Anybody have any thoughts on what would look the best?
> 
> Also, my current plan is white/light blue/and lavender purple. However a co-worker brought up the idea of white and gold. What do you guys think would look better? Thanks


I used a white and copper scheme for Arctic Water,it has been well received so gold and white should work well.





if you cant fill the front panel then use the bays,if you have controllers of any sort then go for tube res.


----------



## Namkab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I used a white and copper scheme for Arctic Water,it has been well received so gold and white should work well.
> 
> 
> 
> if you cant fill the front panel then use the bays,if you have controllers of any sort then go for tube res.


What paint is that?


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Namkab*
> 
> What paint is that?



Don't think its paint, I think its actual copper. B Neg will clear it up for you though


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I had the same issue a few years back with a leak that I thought had ruined everything. I dried everything off and it seemed to run fine. The only issue is that I would get random reboots. It turned out that it was my power supply. Once I replaced it the random reboots went away. I would look at trying another power supply and see if that solves your issue. I would think that if it were your motherboard you'd have much more serious issues than just random reboots. I hope this helps you to track down your issue and I hope you're able to get it resolved.


Thanks a lot for your reply. It's wierd because I put the panel back on behind my motherboard and I changed my sata cable and everything seems fine now. it ran for 24hrs. with no reboots. I have no clue what it was but it seems fine now.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Thanks a lot for your reply. It's wierd because I put the panel back on behind my motherboard and I changed my sata cable and everything seems fine now. it ran for 24hrs. with no reboots. I have no clue what it was but it seems fine now.


Glad to hear it


----------



## Namkab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> 
> Don't think its paint, I think its actual copper. B Neg will clear it up for you though


It just look like the rings on the corsair fans and the covers on thermal armour have been painted.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Namkab*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> 
> Don't think its paint, I think its actual copper. B Neg will clear it up for you though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It just look like the rings on the corsair fans and the covers on thermal armour have been painted.
Click to expand...

The front panel and the 2 covers for the dual loop top are 3mm copper sheet,the rest is paint.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The front panel and the 2 covers for the dual loop top are 3mm copper sheet,the rest is paint.


Sweet, the paint is very alike to the actual copper


----------



## joejoe69

Bitspower Summit EF water block with a Black Ice acrylic top and Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry running through it. Had to drill holes for the 3mm LEDs as the clear version is the only one with holes.

































Next up will be the RAM and VRMs, when time is available...


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Just went SLI with Bitspower VG-NGTX680 waterblocks on my Gigabyte Winforce OC GTX 670s.
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1741_zps94ad9215.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1742_zpscf7b7365.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1743_zpse117aeb4.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1744_zps2f38d7d8.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1740_zps9e4d0d05.jpg.html


----------



## Johnny Utah

ST10-X on its way to me.

Here's one of the two monstas going inside.


















Tapatalk 2 crew


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> ST10-X on its way to me.
> 
> Here's one of the two monstas going inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapatalk 2 crew


Is that a 480 or the monstrous 560?


----------



## Juthos

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/dsc03482f.jpg/


----------



## joejoe69

Spoiler: YAY, MORE BITSPOWER!!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/dsc03482f.jpg/






Bitspower, represent!!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower Summit EF water block with a Black Ice acrylic top and Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry running through it. Had to drill holes for the 3mm LEDs as the clear version is the only one with holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up will be the RAM and VRMs, when time is available...


That block, looks good!


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> 
> Bitspower, represent!!


What are your temperatures?
I had this and it's like having stock sinks .......


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Bitspower Summit EF water block with a Black Ice acrylic top and Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry running through it. Had to drill holes for the 3mm LEDs as the clear version is the only one with holes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up will be the RAM and VRMs, when time is available...


Oooo pretty blue, looks good.








I had looked into BP blocks a while ago, was interested in them...but then found the performance is not that great so decided against it.


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is that a 480 or the monstrous 560?


It's _only_ a 480.









I accidentally ordered two 560 UT60s, noticed the 480s were out of stock so just rolled with the monstas.


----------



## TeamBlue

I'll just leave these here.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That block, looks good!


Thanks!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> What are your temperatures?
> I had this and it's like having stock sinks .......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Oooo pretty blue, looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had looked into BP blocks a while ago, was interested in them...but then found the performance is not that great so decided against it.


My temps average 30C at idle, 47C at load, add 1-2C for the second card, ambient temps in my home is 29-31C (no AC







). I'll be putting them in parallel with dual D5s to see which is better. I was surprised to see they perform as good as my previous XSPC Razor block even though others have given them bad reviews. I guess it depends on how good you mount them and perhaps I was lucky!!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> I'll just leave these here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well done


----------



## PedroC1999

How would I go about cutting tubing, will a Utility Knife do? Or is it 100% essential for me to have tube cutters?


----------



## PCModderMike

Tube cutter is best for clean cuts. I use a heavy duty pair of kitchen scissors though. Cut through it real slowly and it's pretty clean, clean enough to be shown on barbs.
I think a sharp utility knife would do the trick too.


----------



## PedroC1999

Would the cleaness of the cut matter much if its in compression fittings?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Tube cutter is best for clean cuts. I use a heavy duty pair of kitchen scissors though. Cut through it real slowly and it's pretty clean, clean enough to be shown on barbs.
> I think a sharp utility knife would do the trick too.


Yeah, I did mine with a razor blade and a cutting guide, and that still wasn't quite good enough. I'm going to live with it for now, but next iteration it gets the cutters for sure!









Thanks - T


----------



## Solonowarion

Getting ready to bend some acrylic. Thanks for the guide B neg.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1334522/build-log-vanilla-royale-another-600t/190#post_20008945

BL is anyone interested.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Would the cleaness of the cut matter much if its in compression fittings?


Not so much. But still you don't want it so crooked that one side is half an inch higher than the other, won't make a good seal of course.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> DIY Bitspower Solid SLI Bridge. When green SLI bridges just doesn't go well in any build...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1355177/build-log-project-shift-nzxt-switch-810/150#post_19992148


how is it that you are doing/makeing that heatshrink less sleaving? ?? i realy wanna know how to do that


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> how is it that you are doing/makeing that heatshrink less sleaving? ?? i realy wanna know how to do that


It is not to hard using paracord.


I did a couple how to videos:
http://youtu.be/-slCg4nvMx0

http://youtu.be/lspSDIOhvGE


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> how is it that you are doing/makeing that heatshrink less sleaving? ?? i realy wanna know how to do that


There are many threads out there that can help you with that.
Here are a couple of the popular ones.
This first link even has some video guides.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1262904/video-sleeving-guide-series

http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion


----------



## fnyk

thanks guys


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> I'll just leave these here.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Usually I am not a fan of coils, but somehow it just makes sense with all the UV. It looks awesome! Nice build.


----------



## mironccr345

^^ Same here. Well done @_teamblue_!


----------



## GEARjmr

Sweet rig Idef1X...nice power cable. Have a friend making me up something like that.


----------



## SoloTwo

And my first picture from my new DSLR is terrible...



Proper studio equipment and lenses are coming tomorrow and the next day so much more to come including a build log. Sadly my 900D will be here before my last minute panic frozencpu order.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> And my first picture from my new DSLR is terrible...
> 
> 
> 
> Proper studio equipment and lenses are coming tomorrow and the next day so much more to come including a build log. Sadly my 900D will be here before my last minute panic frozencpu order.


Really, that pic isn't that bad considering the subject is almost entirely blacks. It's nice and clear and any more exposure would start washing out the blacks too much. It will definitely look better when it's the full setup I'm sure.

And on the panic order - if you got away with only one of those - then you planned far better than I did (or at least you stuck with your original plan much better).


----------



## Ash2097

I have been using XSPC tubing, but now there is a UK supplier of Primochill Primoflex Advanced tubing should I switch to this? Also will it be ok with Mayhems pastel red?


----------



## OkanG

If you're content with the tubing you have now, why should you change to another? It only makes sense to change your tubing if you actually don't like the one you have now, and that's only for you to decide. Interested to hear about the XSPC tubing though, that's the tubing I ordered for my upcoming watercooling build.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Really, that pic isn't that bad considering the subject is almost entirely blacks. It's nice and clear and any more exposure would start washing out the blacks too much. It will definitely look better when it's the full setup I'm sure.
> 
> And on the panic order - if you got away with only one of those - then you planned far better than I did (or at least you stuck with your original plan much better).


it's a rather good pic.

And you mean you can buy things that aren't from panic orders (my whole PC) or stupid impulse buys (my Ghillie suit)?


----------



## Ash2097

I have only had the XSPC tubing for a around a month so don't know how good it's going to be, and this weekend I will be re-making my loop and leaving it for a while. So if this is less likely to cause clouding over time I may as well switch now for what it costs.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> I have only had the XSPC tubing for a around a month so don't know how good it's going to be, and this weekend I will be re-making my loop and leaving it for a while. So if this is less likely to cause clouding over time I may as well switch now for what it costs.


Currently using the advanced LRT clear version with EK red blood

after 2 months of use I can see the staining and clouding when I drained it last week

I'm at the point of ignorance already where I changed 4 different brands of tube in a year.
As long as it doesnt really effect the performance


----------



## tiborrr12

jokrik: Every PVC/PUR tubing will cloud eventually. Clouding is just tubing absorbing some water. Most PVC/PUR tubing will absorb up to 1.5-2% of water and that is enough to make it appear 'cloudy'.

The most important thing is that it does not leech plasticizer which then deposits throughout your whole system.


----------



## SoloTwo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> And on the panic order - if you got away with only one of those - then you planned far better than I did (or at least you stuck with your original plan much better).


Well I had figured on the 900D being shipped out in another week or longer so I had been slowly ordering batches of parts then all of a sudden I get a email saying I'm getting it today. Plus two things were out of stock but supposed to be in stock within a couple days so I'm not sure when I'll get that order, which has about 500 in bitspower fittings...

I'm sure at some point during the build I will be firing off an order with next day air shipping.

Oh how I almost miss the day where I was just planning on a all in one setup...


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Really, that pic isn't that bad considering the subject is almost entirely blacks. It's nice and clear and any more exposure would start washing out the blacks too much. It will definitely look better when it's the full setup I'm sure.
> 
> And on the panic order - if you got away with only one of those - then you planned far better than I did (or at least you stuck with your original plan much better).


Haha........








Ain't that the truth.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> it's a rather good pic.
> 
> And you mean you can buy things that aren't from panic orders (my whole PC) or stupid impulse buys (my Ghillie suit)?


Again, this is sadly true; I've managed to get probably a solid 50% of this build I'm on from "CRAP, that doesn't FIT NOW" moments...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> Well I had figured on the 900D being shipped out in another week or longer so I had been slowly ordering batches of parts then all of a sudden I get a email saying I'm getting it today. Plus two things were out of stock but supposed to be in stock within a couple days so I'm not sure when I'll get that order, which has about 500 in bitspower fittings...
> 
> I'm sure at some point during the build I will be firing off an order with next day air shipping.
> 
> Oh how I almost miss the day where I was just planning on a all in one setup...


Those days existed? I had ONE day, where I placed a massive order from FCPU and PPC, and I thought that would be it. Naivete. Plain and simple.









Thanks - T


----------



## phantasml

Just upgraded my GPU and changed the coolant








Please comment. I know the cable is a bit messy. Maybe will spend some time to tidy them up in the weekend lol.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well done


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Usually I am not a fan of coils, but somehow it just makes sense with all the UV. It looks awesome! Nice build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^^ Same here. Well done @_teamblue_!


Thanks guys! Let me tell ya it was a lot of fun cramming a 690 in there with both of those rads. The loop had to be re-designed at least 4 times, and it has to be assembled in a particular order or it won't fit. Now, on to a caselabs build....


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Now, on to a caselabs build....


You don't even know what you have coming.

These cases are insane. I read about all of the features, watched videos, and still wasn't prepared.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phantasml*
> 
> Just upgraded my GPU and changed the coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please comment. I know the cable is a bit messy. Maybe will spend some time to tidy them up in the weekend lol.


Nice. Cable management looks good (I think it's no reason to make it even tidier).

I just ordered parts from aquatuning.
Heatkiller 6990 Hole edition
MCP655 Acetal top
2L of clear coolant
2 30cm red cathodes
2 90° fittings (in order to connect the loop properly)
I will do a "rebuild log" when i get the parts and also post a pics of a new setup.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Now, on to a caselabs build....


Welcome...hope you're ready to let your wallet go wild.


----------



## WebsterXC

Alright so I took the day off of work to crank on my Little Devil. Parts are in, liquid cooling system is primed and leak testing right now. I'm waiting on an AX1200 cable set from Corsair and I can go for the first boot.

I need some help though. I was originally going to do both loops in light blue, however I'm sort of liking the CPU white and the VGA's in light blue. However I want to know what you guys think? Should I add dye to my CPU loop to match the VGA loop? My only concern with leaving it white is the tubing blending in with the case too much. Need opinions!


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Alright so I took the day off of work to crank on my Little Devil. Parts are in, liquid cooling system is primed and leak testing right now. I'm waiting on an AX1200 cable set from Corsair and I can go for the first boot.
> 
> I need some help though. I was originally going to do both loops in light blue, however I'm sort of liking the CPU white and the VGA's in light blue. However I want to know what you guys think? Should I add dye to my CPU loop to match the VGA loop? My only concern with leaving it white is the tubing blending in with the case too much. Need opinions!


Awesome and unique color scheme you've got there. Looks great!


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Awesome and unique color scheme you've got there. Looks great!


Thanks!


----------



## SoloTwo

Testing my camera and lights.









Sneak peek of what I plan to do with my tubing, build log to come soon.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Alright so I took the day off of work to crank on my Little Devil. Parts are in, liquid cooling system is primed and leak testing right now. I'm waiting on an AX1200 cable set from Corsair and I can go for the first boot.
> 
> I need some help though. I was originally going to do both loops in light blue, however I'm sort of liking the CPU white and the VGA's in light blue. However I want to know what you guys think? Should I add dye to my CPU loop to match the VGA loop? My only concern with leaving it white is the tubing blending in with the case too much. Need opinions!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice LD build








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> Testing my camera and lights.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneak peek of what I plan to do with my tubing, build log to come soon.


Sweet looking sleeve on the tube there


----------



## SoloTwo

That sleeving is 1" but for the build I'll be using 3/4" on 3/4" tubing so it should be a bit tighter. Kind of a pain to deal with but I love the look and for my first loop I won't have much tubing.


----------



## fnyk

old rig
have to say my self dont look to bad when im thinking of it


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Welcome...hope you're ready to let your wallet go wild.


st10-x on its way as well as 20 fans. Already have the z77x up7, 3770k, memory, 7970s, 2 480's and a 240, fittings, tube, 2 d5's, psu. Just missing some small things and a lot of time!!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Alright so I took the day off of work to crank on my Little Devil. Parts are in, liquid cooling system is primed and leak testing right now. I'm waiting on an AX1200 cable set from Corsair and I can go for the first boot.
> 
> 
> I need some help though. I was originally going to do both loops in light blue, however I'm sort of liking the CPU white and the VGA's in light blue. However I want to know what you guys think? Should I add dye to my CPU loop to match the VGA loop? My only concern with leaving it white is the tubing blending in with the case too much. Need opinions!


Looks great if you ask me, the white looks definitely good with the colored monsoon fittings! I'd definitely go for this look instead of all light blue.
You can always add some dye if you end up not liking the slight lack of contrast, unadding the dye is far far more difficult.


----------



## fnyk

old rig
have to say my self dont look to bad when im thinking of it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> st10-x on its way as well as 20 fans. Already have the z77x up7, 3770k, memory, 7970s, 2 480's and a 240, fittings, tube, 2 d5's, psu. Just missing some small things and a lot of time!!


is it the mpc655 or the vpp655 d5 pumps? ??
just wanna know becos im runing with 2 vpp655 pumps


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Alright so I took the day off of work to crank on my Little Devil. Parts are in, liquid cooling system is primed and leak testing right now. I'm waiting on an AX1200 cable set from Corsair and I can go for the first boot.
> 
> I need some help though. I was originally going to do both loops in light blue, however I'm sort of liking the CPU white and the VGA's in light blue. However I want to know what you guys think? Should I add dye to my CPU loop to match the VGA loop? My only concern with leaving it white is the tubing blending in with the case too much. Need opinions!


i just dont understand why not run the tubing in a more straid line? ??


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Alright so I took the day off of work to crank on my Little Devil. Parts are in, liquid cooling system is primed and leak testing right now. I'm waiting on an AX1200 cable set from Corsair and I can go for the first boot.
> 
> I need some help though. I was originally going to do both loops in light blue, however I'm sort of liking the CPU white and the VGA's in light blue. However I want to know what you guys think? Should I add dye to my CPU loop to match the VGA loop? My only concern with leaving it white is the tubing blending in with the case too much. Need opinions!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i just dont understand why not run the tubing in a more straid line? ??
Click to expand...

Some folks like the looks of curves and radius(s) and some like the look of angles or linearity.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Can you all please spoiler quoted pics,leave one to use as an example but spoiler the rest.
Thanks for your compliance.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> Testing my camera and lights.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneak peek of what I plan to do with my tubing, build log to come soon.


Nice pics. And sleeved tubing looks great. Can't wait to see what you put together.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Can you all please spoiler quoted pics,leave one to use as an example but spoiler the rest.
> Thanks for your compliance.


*le sigh* Never fails does it.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Alright so I took the day off of work to crank on my Little Devil. Parts are in, liquid cooling system is primed and leak testing right now. I'm waiting on an AX1200 cable set from Corsair and I can go for the first boot.
> 
> I need some help though. I was originally going to do both loops in light blue, however I'm sort of liking the CPU white and the VGA's in light blue. However I want to know what you guys think? Should I add dye to my CPU loop to match the VGA loop? My only concern with leaving it white is the tubing blending in with the case too much. Need opinions!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmm, I'm on the edge about the coolant. Maybe the the purple fittings are throwing me off? Overall, looking good.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Hmmm, I'm on the edge about the coolant. Maybe the the purple fitting is throwing me off? Overall, looking good.


I agree. Purple fittings is throwing me off as well. I think he should switch them to white and have it all blend together.


----------



## Thrasher1016

I mean, the purple is *baller* (that's a technical term), and I appreciate that, but IMO, there needs to be either more or less purple to get the mojo right.

Maybe I'm crazy. Actually I am, but whatever.









Thanks - T


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I mean, the purple is *baller* (that's a technical term), and I appreciate that, but IMO, there needs to be either more or less purple to get the mojo right.
> 
> Maybe I'm crazy. Actually I am, but whatever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


Agreed, more or less. I really like everything else he has. White Black and Light Blue Pastel look really good together. Adding a strong color like purple either needs more support with other purple items or less purple.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I agree. Purple fittings is throwing me off as well. I think he should switch them to white and have it all blend together.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I mean, the purple is *baller* (that's a technical term), and I appreciate that, but IMO, there needs to be either more or less purple to get the mojo right.
> 
> Maybe I'm crazy. Actually I am, but whatever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Agreed, more or less. I really like everything else he has. White Black and Light Blue Pastel look really good together. Adding a strong color like purple either needs more support with other purple items or less purple.


Hmm well I appreciate the feedback, what would you guys reccommend I do? Would adding light purple dye to the CPU loop look good? Changing fittings is kind of out of the question at this point since my loop is filled. It took three bottles of ice dragon and I'd really like to not waste it haha.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

It would take some work to get something that looked right, but you should be able to make your light blue GPU loop a light purple by adding red (and probably some more blue) to it. If you don't mind wasting a little of whatever Ice Dragon you have left (if you have some left that is) in a shot glass or something small like that. First get it to the same blue as you're using and then find out how much of blue and red you have to add to get a purple that's similar to your fittings - then just multiply the number of drops of each color by the approximate amount of coolant in that loop.

I think the white loop with the purple fittings looks really nice and I wouldn't change it. It's the difference between the purple and the blue that looks a little off to me. But hey, it's your rig... if you like how it looks now - don't change anything! It's still a sweet rig!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Hmm well I appreciate the feedback, what would you guys reccommend I do? Would adding light purple dye to the CPU loop look good? Changing fittings is kind of out of the question at this point since my loop is filled. It took three bottles of ice dragon and I'd really like to not waste it haha.


I would change the white to a light pastel purple. I think that will help streamline the colors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It would take some work to get something that looked right, but you should be able to make your light blue GPU loop a light purple by adding red (and probably some more blue) to it. If you don't mind wasting a little of whatever Ice Dragon you have left (if you have some left that is) in a shot glass or something small like that. First get it to the same blue as you're using and then find out how much of blue and red you have to add to get a purple that's similar to your fittings - then just multiply the number of drops of each color by the approximate amount of coolant in that loop.
> 
> I think the white loop with the purple fittings looks really nice and I wouldn't change it. It's the difference between the purple and the blue that looks a little off to me. But hey, it's your rig... if you like how it looks now - don't change anything! It's still a sweet rig!


This is also a good idea maybe it is the blue that is throwing the purple fittings off maybe change the blue to a light pastel purple. Hard to say but like he said, play with the colors in a shot glass and post some pictures. People will be happy to comment and help out.


----------



## lowfat

So, where are the GTX780 blocks?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So, where are the GTX780 blocks?


Expect EK to have some a week before release,they are always first out of the blocks as it were.

The rest normally come on release or a week or so later.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I would change the white to a light pastel purple. I think that will help streamline the colors.
> This is also a good idea maybe it is the blue that is throwing the purple fittings off maybe change the blue to a light pastel purple. Hard to say but like he said, play with the colors in a shot glass and post some pictures. People will be happy to comment and help out.


A couple of my friends also suggested changing the white CPU line to purple. I think I'll try that and take some more pictures.


----------



## nleksan

I'm wondering if I should get a 780, or get a second GTX670FTW... I know the latter will be cheaper, and as I already have one, adding a second for SLI will likely give me better performance than a single 780 (single-monitor gaming only).... I guess part of it will depend on whether or not I can get another 670FTW for cheap (as well as the Heatkiller GPUx3 "Hole Edition" 680 block and backplate). Decisions, decisions...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I'm wondering if I should get a 780, or get a second GTX670FTW... I know the latter will be cheaper, and as I already have one, adding a second for SLI will likely give me better performance than a single 780 (single-monitor gaming only).... I guess part of it will depend on whether or not I can get another 670FTW for cheap (as well as the Heatkiller GPUx3 "Hole Edition" 680 block and backplate). Decisions, decisions...


I would get a second 670 if I were you
unless you are going to futureproof you rig again by getting 780 now and get another 780 when the 800 series appears (which would never end







)

but I've read an article somewhere regarding the frame drop or whatever on SLI setting
yeah two cards perform flawlessly but the gaming experience based on the frame dropping would be less than by having a single powerful card

main feature of the 780 from what I see is the GPU boost and since we are water cooler, we dont need to worry about that fan noise vs performance feature


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Expect EK to have some a week before release,they are always first out of the blocks as it were.
> 
> The rest normally come on release or a week or so later.


Reckon a Titan block will fit a 780? They use the same PCB design?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Expect EK to have some a week before release,they are always first out of the blocks as it were.
> 
> The rest normally come on release or a week or so later.
> 
> 
> 
> Reckon a Titan block will fit a 780? They use the same PCB design?
Click to expand...

Perhaps but i wouldnt bank on it,even small changes can render a block useless,ask anyone with XFX cards........


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I'm wondering if I should get a 780, or get a second GTX670FTW... I know the latter will be cheaper, and as I already have one, adding a second for SLI will likely give me better performance than a single 780 (single-monitor gaming only).... I guess part of it will depend on whether or not I can get another 670FTW for cheap (as well as the Heatkiller GPUx3 "Hole Edition" 680 block and backplate). Decisions, decisions...


you should totally search for someone selling one for getting a 780 which would be even cheaper for you. (and we all know that is very likely to find one)


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Perhaps but i wouldnt bank on it,even small changes can render a block useless,ask anyone with XFX cards........


This


----------



## loud681

Leak testing first water build


----------



## ltulod

cable sleeving applied, still working on fans, molex, and sata cables..


----------



## Thrasher1016

Does someone have a picture / diagram / really, really good description of the two wires that are to be "shorted" in order to power the PSU to prime and test a WC loop without main power on in a rig?

Much appreciated!

Thanks - T


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Does someone have a picture / diagram / really, really good description of the two wires that are to be "shorted" in order to power the PSU to prime and test a WC loop without main power on in a rig?
> 
> Much appreciated!
> 
> Thanks - T


Green wire and the adjacent black wire (it is not required that you have the amount of dust as I do there)


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Hmm well I appreciate the feedback, what would you guys reccommend I do? Would adding light purple dye to the CPU loop look good? Changing fittings is kind of out of the question at this point since my loop is filled. It took three bottles of ice dragon and I'd really like to not waste it haha.


Powdercoat your monsoon fittings a pastel purple.

The pastel blue combined with the white would be complimented really well by a pastel purple. The issue is that you have white, pastel blue, and FIERCE BRIGHT SHINY purple.


----------



## PedroC1999

How would you prime a pump which is bult into a res?

Im getting the dual 5.25" XSPC single D5 res


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Same way you would with any other pump, short the PSU/use a test PSU.

I hate bay reservoirs with a passion.


----------



## PedroC1999

Me and Smoke have had this conversation via PM's before lol

I mean, do I short PSU, let it run for 5secs, repeat until it is full?


----------



## SmokinWaffle

You can do that, or you can fill it as the pump runs if you are fast enough. Second option saves time but has more risk of the pump running dry.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Reckon a Titan block will fit a 780? They use the same PCB design?


Yeah, it will.


----------



## PedroC1999

Im obviously going to take my time on my first WC rig, should my D5 run at full, or minum speed?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Me and Smoke have had this conversation via PM's before lol
> 
> I mean, do I short PSU, let it run for 5secs, repeat until it is full?


Pretty much, good idea to take note of where the intake for the pump is inside the res. Fill it up and turn it on, water goes down, turn it off, then repeat until full. I got the XSPC Dual D5 acrylic bay res(due to someones mistake), worked great for me.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Me and Smoke have had this conversation via PM's before lol
> 
> I mean, do I short PSU, let it run for 5secs, repeat until it is full?


What I did is fill the reservoir until almost full, then run the pump until the reservoir half full, then turn off pump, then refill & ...... repeat the procedure until the liquid fully circulated in the loop.

BTW, my pump was set to 5.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Reckon a Titan block will fit a 780? They use the same PCB design?


EK has confirmed that their Titan blocks will fit GTX780s.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Reckon a Titan block will fit a 780? They use the same PCB design?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it will.
Click to expand...

Based on what? As previously mentioned,having the same basic PCB doesnt guarantee FC block compatibility.
I have yet to see a 780 naked,you have a link to your source?

EDIT: Lowfat has confirmed that EK are compatible


----------



## Pawelr98

Got my parts. Just installed heatkiller block on my 6990. I will add photos when my camera battery gets recharded.


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Based on what? As previously mentioned,having the same basic PCB doesnt guarantee FC block compatibility.
> I have yet to see a 780 naked,you have a link to your source?
> 
> EDIT: Lowfat has confirmed that EK are compatible


----------



## lowfat

I'd rather my blocks not say 'Titan' on them considering I won't have Titans. Hopefully Aquacomputer will release some info on what they plan to do for GTX780 in the next couple of days.

EDIT: Looks like Aquacomputer blocks will fit. But they do plan on releasing blocks that say GTX780 instead of Titan.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd rather my blocks not say 'Titan' on them considering I won't have Titans. Hopefully Aquacomputer will release some info on what they plan to do for GTX780 in the next couple of days.


They could say Almost Titan.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> They could say Almost Titan.


Or "More reasonably priced mini-Titan"


----------



## Valgaur

Hey guys what normal pipe threading is G 1/4" appropriate to?


----------



## sakerfalcon

What? G 1/4 refers to BSPP threading. Unless you mean tap drill size, in which case it'll be 15/32.


----------



## DutchChilles

Yay 780 came out today, good thing i bought an 680 a while back because i couldnt wait... -_-


----------



## PedroC1999

Are there any fans similar to the AP-15s that are as quiet/good as the AP-15, while being a bit cheaper?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> What? G 1/4 refers to BSPP threading. Unless you mean tap drill size, in which case it'll be 15/32.


like I'm tryign to figure out how I can get a certain piping for shower heads to work with g1/4" threads and I'm having trouble finding this


----------



## PedroC1999

Anyone Please?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1393915/cheap-but-good-radiator-fans/0_100#post_20030568


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Anyone Please?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1393915/cheap-but-good-radiator-fans/0_100#post_20030568


Cheap and ap-performance are mutually exclusive imho









Good cheap fans, og Yates

Close ap performance for a bit less: corsair sp


----------



## neSSa

I put another GPU and this is how the system looks like now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

First render of a scratch build im doing,just getting the quotes for the unibody as we speak.
And....this will be an OCN only log!
Unibody and structural panels are 5mm Alu
Side panels are 2mm Carbon Fibre,not DiNoc and there is space for 2 240 Monsta rads in the bottom.

Still need to do the IO panel and PSU mount but the 'look' is there.

I did say this is ITX right?












Keyshot wont let me resize the carbon twill either......


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> like I'm tryign to figure out how I can get a certain piping for shower heads to work with g1/4" threads and I'm having trouble finding this


I know for certain Lowes has pipe threading machines, so Home Depot probably has them too. Whether they have BSPP G1/4 is up in the air though, as I think the US uses NPT. I'm not sure if I fully understood your question.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> I put another GPU and this is how the system looks like now
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very beautiful tone of red, love it








and weirdly enough, RAM Air Cooling works so well in water cooled builds its astonishing. (when implemented well like you have)

I need some help with scheming:
Could anyone add some input if a the "good old" dark red (i.e. mainly black with red accents) theme can work with green in it in any way? Can it be pulled off?

Edity:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> First render of a scratch build im doing,just getting the quotes for the unibody as we speak.
> And....this will be an OCN only log!
> Unibody and structural panels are 5mm Alu
> Side panels are 2mm Carbon Fibre,not DiNoc and there is space for 2 240 Monsta rads in the bottom.
> 
> Still need to do the IO panel and PSU mount but the 'look' is there.
> 
> I did say this is ITX right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keyshot wont let me resize the carbon twill either......


i bet that in the next or some after renders you will get secret offerings from XXX Case company to buy the design from you, Because it looks fantastic.


----------



## Pawelr98

And little DIY


I had to do it in order to use this backplate with waterblock.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> First render of a scratch build im doing,just getting the quotes for the unibody as we speak.
> And....this will be an OCN only log!
> Unibody and structural panels are 5mm Alu
> Side panels are 2mm Carbon Fibre,not DiNoc and there is space for 2 240 Monsta rads in the bottom.
> 
> Still need to do the IO panel and PSU mount but the 'look' is there.
> 
> I did say this is ITX right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keyshot wont let me resize the carbon twill either......


Noyce


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> First render of a scratch build im doing,just getting the quotes for the unibody as we speak.
> And....this will be an OCN only log!
> Unibody and structural panels are 5mm Alu
> Side panels are 2mm Carbon Fibre,not DiNoc and there is space for 2 240 Monsta rads in the bottom.
> 
> Still need to do the IO panel and PSU mount but the 'look' is there.
> 
> I did say this is ITX right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keyshot wont let me resize the carbon twill either......


First time up to bat, knocks it out of the park.

Best looking (watercooled) ITX case right there.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> I know for certain Lowes has pipe threading machines, so Home Depot probably has them too. Whether they have BSPP G1/4 is up in the air though, as I think the US uses NPT. I'm not sure if I fully understood your question.


yup you answered it right.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thanks mate!
Cant wait to get started on this,just waiting for the guys bending the 5mm unibody to get back to me.

Panels are from here,proper Carbon rather than the DiNoc that i have used before.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> yup you answered it right.


If you want to screw the pipes directly to blocks, how exactly do you plan to attach them? You can't attach both ends directly to blocks, so you'll need to use unions / couplers / extenders or plain fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I see your 780 and raise you.....


----------



## wermad

VGA ftw!!!!!!

Savag4, brings back memories of my first self bought w/ my hard earned cash gpu


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> VGA ftw!!!!!!
> 
> Savag4, brings back memories of my first self bought w/ my hard earned cash gpu












Mine was a Matrox Mystique with a 3dFX card and the whacking great loop thru cable....happy times man.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Some folks like the looks of curves and radius(s) and some like the look of angles or linearity.


i was just meanig from the ram block to the cpu block
that i think whut loon relay nice with all the other curves and then that little one in a streat line whut look realy sharp


----------



## sebar

Nice ITX concept B Negative. I am looking forward to seeing the build log.


----------



## WebsterXC

Alright as suggested a couple pages prior, I was going to mix different dyes in order to find a great color for the CPU loop in my Little Devil build. I went ahead and did that just now. I'm really catching on to the idea of having the CPU loop a light grey, however I'm also torn between that and the lavender purple. Let me know what you guys think. This is the original loop (remember, the purple fittings are staying):



And the potential colors (pink, dark green, grey, purple):



What would replace the white loop best?


----------



## illuz

Definitely the purple!


----------



## pc-illiterate

go with the purple yes. then you can sleeve your wires in pastel yellow and green and call it " the easter bunny dump" build.


----------



## Namkab

Purple wins


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

I liked the white and baby blue, but I also like some of these new gold themed motherboards, so what do I know


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine was a Matrox Mystique with a 3dFX card and the whacking great loop thru cable....happy times man.


Got my pop to get me a Riva TNT for my b-day as a lad. Then started mowing lawns to make some money and fund my addiction









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Alright as suggested a couple pages prior, I was going to mix different dyes in order to find a great color for the CPU loop in my Little Devil build. I went ahead and did that just now. I'm really catching on to the idea of having the CPU loop a light grey, however I'm also torn between that and the lavender purple. Let me know what you guys think. This is the original loop (remember, the purple fittings are staying):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the potential colors (pink, dark green, grey, purple):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would replace the white loop best?


Blueberry blue looks nice


----------



## WebsterXC

Well seems the consensus is purple! I'll add some purple to the CPU loop and install the Corsair cables when they arrive next week. I'll post finished pictures soon!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> EK has confirmed that their Titan blocks will fit GTX780s.


Do you have a link to the confirmation? - how about the backplates? I just ordered 3 this morning and I'm a little worried that there's been no mention of official blocks yet (particularly from EK)


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Do you have a link to the confirmation? - how about the backplates? I just ordered 3 this morning and I'm a little worried that there's been no mention of official blocks yet (particularly from EK)


http://www.overclock.net/t/1391918/780-blocks/#post_20029696

Not specifically EK, but since Aquacomputer's does, it's a high likelihood.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Perhaps but i wouldnt bank on it,even small changes can render a block useless,ask anyone with XFX cards........


What happened with XFX cards?


----------



## fakeblood

added a new window to my build

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09773_zpsb0024ac2.jpg.html


----------



## sakerfalcon

They changed from reference to non reference while keeping the same model number.

Speaking of which, there appears to be a new variant of Heatkiller 7970 full blocks, now made for XFX non reference 7970s? They weren't listed on FCPU yesterday.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> added a new window to my build
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09773_zpsb0024ac2.jpg.html


Why don't you have it in the black pcie 16x slot? Looks? Curious








Quote:


> _3 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x16 (PCIEX16_1~3)
> * For optimum performance, if only one expansion card is to be installed, be sure to install it in the PCIEX16_2 slot._(aka the black pcie 16x slot)


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why don't you have it in the black pcie 16x slot? Looks? Curious


Yeh mainly due to looks, the cabling looked a bit odd running that much length up and behind the mobo, if I redo the loop will be moving it down for sure. Havent noticed any loss in performance so not a worry for now.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Do you have a link to the confirmation? - how about the backplates? I just ordered 3 this morning and I'm a little worried that there's been no mention of official blocks yet (particularly from EK)


Tiborrr posted on XS saying that they would fit. They will be testing backplates tomorrow.

What I am curious about is if EK backplates will work w/ Aquacomputer blocks.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Tiborrr posted on XS saying that they would fit. They will be testing backplates tomorrow.
> 
> What I am curious about is if EK backplates will work w/ Aquacomputer blocks.


Not likely, EK backplates typically screw into the waterblock itself via passing through a hole in the card


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Not likely, EK backplates typically screw into the waterblock itself via passing through a hole in the card


I think only two screws of the backplate mount to the block. So in theory it should work, I just may require a couple of different sized counter sunk screws.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> added a new window to my build
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09773_zpsb0024ac2.jpg.html


Windows 8 with a keyboard?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I see your 780 and raise you.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My favorite part of that card is the "curiously high-bandwidth LMNOPRAM" -too bad those GPU chips are meh... I'm with Cirrus Logic myself... they rock my CGA world!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Alright as suggested a couple pages prior, I was going to mix different dyes in order to find a great color for the CPU loop in my Little Devil build. I went ahead and did that just now. I'm really catching on to the idea of having the CPU loop a light grey, however I'm also torn between that and the lavender purple. Let me know what you guys think. This is the original loop (remember, the purple fittings are staying):
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the potential colors (pink, dark green, grey, purple):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would replace the white loop best?


I still say replace the baby blue loop as opposed to the white one, but in either case I'd go with that purple rather than introducing yet another color.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> go with the purple yes. then you can sleeve your wires in pastel yellow and green and call it " the easter bunny dump" build.


Nice. Not constructive necessarily, but still nice.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Windows 8 with a keyboard?


You know it!

Dont want to have a smudgy screen! Dont even use the start screen anyhow


----------



## Pawelr98

Rebuild log 

I will get better pics when i get my camera working.


----------



## phillyd

Windows 8 doesn't require a touch screen.


----------



## Pawelr98

A bit better pics.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Windows 8 doesn't require a touch screen.


Yeah, I'm going to use it on my new build, and I will have a Korean 1440p UHD monitor... I'd go bananas if I had to touch a screen... my OCD would go straight to level 9000.








....And I wash my hands about 20 to 30 times a day....

Thanks - T


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Windows 8 doesn't require a touch screen.


I don't require Windows 8. I bought it at the start of November but managed to remove it 2 weeks later. I phoned Microsoft and said "I want a ......" and they replied "Refund? OK".


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> added a new window to my build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09773_zpsb0024ac2.jpg.html


That's a clean looking TJ07. Well done.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Windows 8 doesn't require a touch screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't require Windows 8. I bought it at the start of November but managed to remove it 2 weeks later. I phoned Microsoft and said "I want a ......" and they replied "Refund? OK".
Click to expand...

so they actually gave you a refund?


----------



## phillyd

I love windows 8. If you don't like it you can easily remove metro and it looks just like windows 7 but with better features and better use if modules/hyperthreading,


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> so they actually gave you a refund?


Yeah , I paid for the digital upgrade and installation discs. By 2.5 weeks I had uninstalled it and the discs had never showed up (posted supposedly from Ireland to the UK mainland so shouldn't have been more than 2 days) so I phoned them. The Indian guy I spoke to just agreed straight away, even though I hadn't got round to quoting the UK Distance Selling Regulations http://www.out-law.com/page-430 . They sent an Electronic Notice Of Destruction to me which prevented me from trying to reinstall Windows 8 and then gave me a full refund. The discs turned up 2 days later and I binned them. Total 3 weeks.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I would comment - but this thread has gotten too









I respect BNeg's pipe-bending skills too much to mess with - and I like my pipe the way it is currently.









ON topic... I'm getting a pedestal for my M8, adding at least one more radiator, and hmmmm dunno what else might happen.

But I'll post pics of it here, so you can prove that it did.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> *I would comment - but this thread has gotten too*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I respect BNeg's pipe-bending skills too much to mess with - and I like my pipe the way it is currently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ON topic... I'm getting a pedestal for my M8, adding at least one more radiator, and hmmmm dunno what else might happen.
> 
> But I'll post pics of it here, so you can prove that it did.


This.

No more talk of that OS please,make a thread or join the other flamebait threads that are currently running about it.

In other news,rescaled the carbon twill and added PSU mount and IO backplate mount


----------



## nismoskyline

Wow B neg.. that case is truly amazing. Great work! If for some reason you make more than one i might be interested in buying one


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> No more talk of that OS please,make a thread or join the other flamebait threads that are currently running about it.
> 
> In other news,rescaled the carbon twill and added PSU mount and IO backplate mount


I dont see any PCIe slots, or is it just me?


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> I dont see any PCIe slots, or is it just me?


looks like theres 2 slots to me


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> I dont see any PCIe slots, or is it just me?


It's a proof of concept.


----------



## Namkab

Is that not the PCIe area right below the I/O knockout in the second picture?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> No more talk of that OS please,make a thread or join the other flamebait threads that are currently running about it.
> 
> In other news,rescaled the carbon twill and added PSU mount and IO backplate mount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont see any PCIe slots, or is it just me?
Click to expand...

There is an open space under the IO,ITX has only one PCIe slot so no need for loads of expansion slots.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> I dont see any PCIe slots, or is it just me?
> 
> 
> 
> It's a proof of concept.
Click to expand...

This is the render from the design drawings,Solidwork assembly of the components im making or getting made (i cant bend 5mm Alu...







)


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont see any PCIe slots, or is it just me?
Click to expand...

They're directly under the MB cutout. (B NEG beat me to it.)

In other news, all my WC parts came from PPCS today!
So excited to start this build- I will be making a log! I'll be posting a pic or two here to join the club finally, as well.
(Borrowing a camera from a friend, so can't start it until Saturday but so excited)


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> They're directly under the MB cutout. (B NEG beat me to it.)
> 
> In other news, all my WC parts came from PPCS today!
> So excited to start this build- I will be making a log! I'll be posting a pic or two here to join the club finally, as well.
> (Borrowing a camera from a friend, so can't start it until Saturday but so excited)










Stupid Me! I thought tat was the I/O cut out lol...

And please subscribe to my build log in my sig, I just ordered everything!


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> No more talk of that OS please,make a thread or join the other flamebait threads that are currently running about it.
> 
> In other news,rescaled the carbon twill and added PSU mount and IO backplate mount


i realy like that case
do you think that i can get it in a m-atx version ^^


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> How would I go about cutting tubing, will a Utility Knife do? Or is it 100% essential for me to have tube cutters?


The tube cutters they sell at frozen cpu are terrible. I bought one from home depot. It was only like 10 dollars. I think it's made for pvc pipes. you set the tube in it and then pull down the top blade like a paper cutter. I used to use scissors but this tube cutter is so amazingly clean and goes thru tubes like butter. I will never use anything else. It makes such a clean cut but also it makes it really easy to cut off little pieces if the tube is a little too long. Scissors are hard to cut off little pieces with but with this cutter you can slice off paper thin pieces without damaging anything.


----------



## PedroC1999

By dad has a heavy duty Ceramic meat knife, any idea if that would be good?


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The case is shaped like a "B" for "B NEGATIVE" right?


----------



## sakerfalcon

--


----------



## kcuestag

Guys, please stop quoting the same pictures over and over, put a spoiler so we don't have to load them again and again...


----------



## petriedish81

I would not use a knife or a razor blade. It wants to catch and will make awful cuts. I spent ten bucks on a cheap tube cutter on amazon and works way better.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> The tube cutters they sell at frozen cpu are terrible. I bought one from home depot. It was only like 10 dollars. I think it's made for pvc pipes. you set the tube in it and then pull down the top blade like a paper cutter. I used to use scissors but this tube cutter is so amazingly clean and goes thru tubes like butter. I will never use anything else. It makes such a clean cut but also it makes it really easy to cut off little pieces if the tube is a little too long. Scissors are hard to cut off little pieces with but with this cutter you can slice off paper thin pieces without damaging anything.


I also got my tube cutters from the Depot, they're Blue "scissor-style" PVC Pipe/Tube cutters for up to 2" PVC Pipe, and they cut through the notoriously tough PrimoFlex Advanced LRT like it's not even there! Prior to that I'd been using some (very expensive and ridiculously sharp) sewing scissors, which are essentially two knives that can chop, and even they were resulting in "pinched cuts".

Spend the $8-12 locally on some good ones, and you'll never have to worry about a bad cut again! I recommend one with a replaceable blade, too, as I got a 6-pack of replacement blades for like $8, with each blade being "good for up to 500 cuts of 2" PVC Piping or 1000 cuts of 1" PVC Tubing before showing any signs of blade fatigue/dulling". Seriously sharp stuff; if you happen to also be a mob enforcer, they'd probably work great for "enhanced interrogations" as well


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petriedish81*
> 
> I would not use a knife or a razor blade. It wants to catch and will make awful cuts. I spent ten bucks on a cheap tube cutter on amazon and works way better.


My chef cooking knife never failed me
one hit and its cut off, though i'm tempted to get tube cutter now since I changed to 3/8ID 5/8OD which is quite thick


----------



## sakerfalcon

Old school mini hacksaw.









or box cutters in a pinch if testing components/


----------



## NewHighScore

Haha I just use plain ol kitchen scissors


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hmm I'm going to have to get me some tube cutters. Good info guys, thanks!


----------



## phillyd

Miniature garden sheers work as AMAZING tube cutters btw.


----------



## SoloTwo

I use this tubing cutter, works great extremely clean cutting with no effort.



Different fans I'll be using in my build.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> I use this tubing cutter, works great extremely clean cutting with no effort.


Wow, you're living in the lap of luxury with those! I just grabbed these from Lowes - perfect cuts every time on 3/8X5/8 Advanced LRT! Don't let the reviews dissuade you - if you actually read them you can see that everyone that's leaving bad reviews was trying to cut PVC pipe for sprinkler systems with them..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> I use this tubing cutter, works great extremely clean cutting with no effort.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, you're living in the lap of luxury with those! I just grabbed these from Lowes - perfect cuts every time on 3/8X5/8 Advanced LRT! Don't let the reviews dissuade you - if you actually read them you can see that everyone that's leaving bad reviews was trying to cut PVC pipe for sprinkler systems with them..
Click to expand...

I beat both of yous







$3.99









http://www.harborfreight.com/ratchet-action-hose-pvc-pipe-cutter-39749.html


----------



## derickwm

I claim dibs on being part of the first batch of cases made B-Neg 

Individually numbered please and thank you.


----------



## tecuarenta

UPDATESSSS!!!!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Recently finished


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I claim dibs on being part of the first batch of cases made B-Neg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Individually numbered please and thank you.


For you Derick? Of course mate!!!

Individually numbered....I like the idea of this!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Haha I just use plain ol kitchen scissors


Haha same


----------



## TSXmike

Nearly finished


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I claim dibs on being part of the first batch of cases made B-Neg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Individually numbered please and thank you.


I'm right there with you.

Here's my sketchup prototype from a few months ago:



Smaller profile than most mid towers.


----------



## mattcube64

My first watercooling order arrived yesterday! Woo!



Lots more on the way! Excited to join your guys' ranks.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> My first watercooling order arrived yesterday! Woo!
> 
> 
> 
> Lots more on the way! Excited to join your guys' ranks.


Welcome to a most addicting hobby! Nice components for a first timer. Make sure to post a few pics once you get your build going!


----------



## illuz

Think I'm able buy the rest of my water cooling gear over the next few weeks. I'm so excited


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Coming along.....





If anyone feels that im clogging the thread with these design pics then tell me and i will stop posting them here,Im interested in this threads feedback tho.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Coming along.....
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone feels that im clogging the thread with these design pics then tell me and i will stop posting them here,Im interested in this threads feedback tho.


Really stellar design.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> My first watercooling order arrived yesterday! Woo!
> 
> 
> 
> Lots more on the way! Excited to join your guys' ranks.


nice a vpp655 singel and a ek xtx 240 and a xtx 360

trust me the vpp655 is realy good

im useing 2 of those in my loop just becos i can ^^


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Coming along.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone feels that im clogging the thread with these design pics then tell me and i will stop posting them here,Im interested in this threads feedback tho.


if ther is coming a black one with m-atx im on it ^^


----------



## ginger_nuts

B Neg. knowing you it will look awesome, but a window where the PSU is?

What are you planning?


----------



## derickwm

Mesh grills coming for bottom chamber?


----------



## Solonowarion

del


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> B Neg. knowing you it will look awesome, but a window where the PSU is?
> 
> What are you planning?


Ballin cables.

B Neg. Thanks for the acrylic guide!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Coming along.....
> 
> If anyone feels that im clogging the thread with these design pics then tell me and i will stop posting them here,Im interested in this threads feedback tho.


Visually it looks great just one question, how is the PSU going to be getting air?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mesh grills coming for bottom chamber?


Yeah,this is what it looks like in Solidworks...



I made the AQ5 but the fan was someone elses work
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> B Neg. knowing you it will look awesome, but a window where the PSU is?
> 
> What are you planning?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Coming along.....
> 
> If anyone feels that im clogging the thread with these design pics then tell me and i will stop posting them here,Im interested in this threads feedback tho.
> 
> 
> 
> Visually it looks great just one question, how is the PSU going to be getting air?
Click to expand...

I need to do vents in the back panel on the psu side and vents in the rad bay back panel.
While the body is done,the panels need some tweaking for airflow before getting them CNC'd


----------



## ssgwright

cracked my res... this will have to do until the new one arrives! lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgwright*
> 
> cracked my res... this will have to do until the new one arrives! lol


Awesome









I've done ghetto reservoirs before (interim res)







.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgwright*
> 
> cracked my res... this will have to do until the new one arrives! lol


Please tell me that reservoir is secured somehow. Someone could bump your computer and then you are kissing a whole lot of hardware goodbye.

EDIT: Fans + rad for my server. 6A worth of fan on a 3x120mm, I'd say that is a tad overkill.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-9.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-8.jpg.html


----------



## TampaChaz

Working on a new rig. I have a basic project log going over on the AMD Thread. I will post more pics after the loops are completely laid out if anyone would like to see.


----------



## SoloTwo




----------



## Namkab

[/quote]

Duuude


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgwright*
> 
> cracked my res... this will have to do until the new one arrives! lol


Very ghetto! Ill give you rep for that
really keep an eye on that, if you knock it over lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*


porn detected .....
nice photography


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Coming along.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone feels that im clogging the thread with these design pics then tell me and i will stop posting them here,Im interested in this threads feedback tho.


If anyone says that your clogging the thread we should all beat them..... just my thoughts on the matter.


----------



## SoloTwo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> porn detected .....
> nice photography


Thanks, and here's some Bokeh.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> If anyone says that your clogging the thread we should all beat them..... just my thoughts on the matter.


People better not be negative about B NEGATIVE posting about his new WC scratch build. I love all of his mods!


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Ballin cables.
> 
> B Neg. Thanks for the acrylic guide!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great.

My current build is coming along. Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1390841/build-log-dimastech-watercooled-test-bench-open-case-gtx-titan-ek-clean-blocks-portrait-surround#post_19957622

Finally found a Gigabyte GA X79 UD7 and got the EK waterblock to go with it so I can start modding the case and completing the rest of the loop.


----------



## nagle3092

Nice case , I got my xspx titan blocks and swiftech qdc coming on Tuesday. I'll have to post some updated pics of my dimastech.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Nice case , I got my xspx titan blocks and swiftech qdc coming on Tuesday. I'll have to post some updated pics of my dimastech.


Thanks.

For sure, yours will look good with some blocks in the loop. How is your tubing routed?

I'm a big fan of the big matt black Dimastech Easy V3 cases. They look great. Just hate how the motherboard standoffs and cable/tubing holes are positioned, much preferred the Easy V2.5 size and layout. Once I alter the case so they are all more towards the middle of the case I think it'll be closer to what I wanted.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> B Neg. knowing you it will look awesome, but a window where the PSU is?
> 
> What are you planning?
> 
> 
> 
> Ballin cables.
> 
> B Neg. Thanks for the acrylic guide!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Awesome sauce Amazeballs.

Looks great,you did a good job with the routing and lines.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Nice case , I got my xspx titan blocks and swiftech qdc coming on Tuesday. I'll have to post some updated pics of my dimastech.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> For sure, yours will look good with some blocks in the loop. How is your tubing routed?
> 
> I'm a big fan of the big matt black Dimastech Easy V3 cases. They look great. Just hate how the motherboard standoffs and cable/tubing holes are positioned, much preferred the Easy V2.5 size and layout. Once I alter the case so they are all more towards the middle of the case I think it'll be closer to what I wanted.
Click to expand...

I had the Easy/Hard bench,the paint finish was pretty rough and it was a massive dust magnet but it was an awesome bench.



Mick used this pic for Mayhems promotional work for ages...


----------



## SoloTwo




----------



## OkanG

Hi, I'll post pictures of my new watercooling soon! I just have a question. What do I do about a noisy pump? I have a Laing DDC-1T with an EK DDC X-res CSQ top and res combo. It's really noisy, and I don't know why, it's by far the noisiest component in my computer now, and it's not really quieter than when I only had air cooling in my rig, kinda ruins half the purpose of my new watercooling..


----------



## derickwm

You can either, limit the voltage going to it, or go with a Lang D5 which is generally regarded as quieter.


----------



## ssgwright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Please tell me that reservoir is secured somehow. Someone could bump your computer and then you are kissing a whole lot of hardware goodbye.


sure the window is on keeping it from falling out then the 780 next to it is holding it in place


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You can either, limit the voltage going to it, or go with a Lang D5 which is generally regarded as quieter.


How do I limit the voltage? Sorry for the noob questions, this is my first waterloop ever.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> How do I limit the voltage? Sorry for the noob questions, this is my first waterloop ever.


With something like this.

http://koolance.com/ctr-spd1224-pump-or-fan-speed-controller

Personally I'd just buy a D5 if you think it's too loud instead of dialling it back.


----------



## cruisant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Awesome sauce Amazeballs.
> 
> Looks great,you did a good job with the routing and lines.
> I had the Easy/Hard bench,the paint finish was pretty rough and it was a massive dust magnet but it was an awesome bench.
> 
> 
> 
> Mick used this pic for Mayhems promotional work for ages...


Those WC tech bench always looks awesome







My dream machine


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> B Neg. knowing you it will look awesome, but a window where the PSU is?
> 
> What are you planning?
> 
> 
> 
> Ballin cables.
> 
> B Neg. Thanks for the acrylic guide!
Click to expand...

That looks great


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ok,I started a log so i dont have to clog up this thread until I have some metal chopped up and WC in there.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1394697/scratch-build-prot07ype-ocn-exclusive-log/0_20

Thanks!


----------



## Pawelr98

Installed normal 120mm fan instead of 92mm secured by tape.
Also installed coolant temp sensor.Temp is displayed on Scythe Kaze Master Pro.
~30°C IDLE(internet browisng)
~40°C LOAD(gaming).
Cpu core temp increased from 50-52°C to about 55-57°C after installing gpu in the loop.It's still under 60°C so there's nothing to worry about(Phenom II get's unstable when running over 60°C).


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Working on a new rig. I have a basic project log going over on the AMD Thread. I will post more pics after the loops are completely laid out if anyone would like to see.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good - nice and tidy rig - but now my eyes are bleeding and I can't stop it!









Then again, you can look at it for a minute or two and then turn away... and still be looking at it for another 3 minutes or so while your retinas recover!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Nice case , I got my xspx titan blocks and swiftech qdc coming on Tuesday. I'll have to post some updated pics of my dimastech.


Let me know what you think of our QDCs and I can't wait to see the pics. Gabe put a lot of hard work into their design.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Let me know what you think of our QDCs and I can't wait to see the pics. Gabe put a lot of hard work into their design.


Do you guys plan on offering different size bulk heads for the qdc's? That's my only grip right now, I'm going to be using an xspc bulk head to male g1/4 fitting on the qdcs.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Do you guys plan on offering different size bulk heads for the qdc's? That's my only grip right now, I'm going to be using an xspc bulk head to male g1/4 fitting on the qdcs.


Yes, I believe we will be offering some different sized bulk head fittings in the near future.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Looks good - nice and tidy rig - but now my eyes are bleeding and I can't stop it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then again, you can look at it for a minute or two and then turn away... and still be looking at it for another 3 minutes or so while your retinas recover!


Yeah, sorry. I know how much everyone hates red builds, but I'm trying to tame it down with more black, I promise. Sorry about your retinas.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Hi all,

Would this be possible? Or would it too fragile because of vibrations from the pump?


----------



## PCModderMike

^I've done something similar in the past...should be fine.


----------



## mattcube64

I have an EK D5 X-Res pump/res combo - 140. After putting it together, I need to drill holes on my computer's backplate/motherboard plate. I'm kind of afraid to, and I'd rally rather mount the thing somewhere else. Is there any better way to attach an EK X-Res combo to your case?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> For sure, yours will look good with some blocks in the loop. How is your tubing routed?
> 
> I'm a big fan of the big matt black Dimastech Easy V3 cases. They look great. Just hate how the motherboard standoffs and cable/tubing holes are positioned, much preferred the Easy V2.5 size and layout. Once I alter the case so they are all more towards the middle of the case I think it'll be closer to what I wanted.


I agree with the standoffs, I dont know why they didnt center them but oh well. Here is some pics, I removed the 5.25 bay though and added some rubber strips the bay res since I took theses so its not hanging out anymore.





The threads on 2 alphacool bards are to long to use on the xspc bulk head so I had to use swiftech comps for now. Im playing with the idea of drilling 2 holes, one above each rad and putting a qdc at each end right now. Not sure when I would get to it but its a maybe for now.


----------



## fnyk

first time i try it ^^



second time i try ^^


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> I agree with the standoffs, I dont know why they didnt center them but oh well. Here is some pics, I removed the 5.25 bay though and added some rubber strips the bay res since I took theses so its not hanging out anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> The threads on 2 alphacool bards are to long to use on the xspc bulk head so I had to use swiftech comps for now. Im playing with the idea of drilling 2 holes, one above each rad and putting a qdc at each end right now. Not sure when I would get to it but its a maybe for now.


Great powerful beast nagle3092 !!!


----------



## K4IKEN

Man, I love norprene!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Yeah, sorry. I know how much everyone hates red builds, but I'm trying to tame it down with more black, I promise. Sorry about your retinas.


Don't get me wrong... if _you_ like red - hell, put more red in it!







I only have to look at the pictures... you have to look at it every day!


----------



## RKTGX95

Could anyone comment if the regular red and black theme of a loop could somehow work with a pinch of green in it? (in any shape or form?)


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Could anyone comment if the regular red and black theme of a loop could somehow work with a pinch of green in it? (in any shape or form?)


I can take another picture if you want with Much brighter green.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I can take another picture if you want with Much brighter green.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very Nice green







(what happened to the quad 7970's?)

i think that since i have started playing again C&C3 (and KW) the whole Red and (tib) Green got stuck in my head


----------



## RKTGX95

~a double


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I can take another picture if you want with Much brighter green.


Needs quad 780s


----------



## derickwm

It's Christmas in a box!


----------



## kcuestag

http://www.overclock.net/t/1394815/help-me-with-my-loop-re-design#post_20051497

Could use some help from the water cooling experts in this thread.


----------



## fakeblood

Guys, can I get some input on a query. Have created new thread for it http://www.overclock.net/t/1394827/two-loops-1-res

Cheers


----------



## Grey42O

For the most part this is my first build. It has been built then revamped several times.

Case: Cooler Master 690 II Advanced
Mainboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA UD-7
Processor: AMD FX 8350
Memory: G-SKill 16gb 2133Mhz
Graphics: 2x MSI 6870 Hawk
Power: Corsair HX1000
SSD Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 240gb
HDD: Western Digital 1tb & 1.5 tb
Cooling: Custom Liquid (Koolance and Heatkiller combination)


----------



## joostflux

Hey, just a quick question for you WC gurus. I just picked up some MIPS blocks for my mobo and I noticed a small ding on the nickel plated side. Should I be worried about this?

Here is a pic of what I'm trying to describe:



The ding is on the right side toward the bottom near my thumb.

Thanks!


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys, remember if you have any questions, problems, requests or need any information about Performance-PC's, ask me!


Does that code still work? i plan on making another purchase from them?


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wRRM*
> 
> I've just assembled my new custom loop this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cables is nowhere near done though.
> 
> (Would also like to join the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


NICE!!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Very Nice green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (what happened to the quad 7970's?)
> 
> i think that since i have started playing again C&C3 (and KW) the whole Red and (tib) Green got stuck in my head


Go back to RED.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> Does that code still work? i plan on making another purchase from them?


Yes -

ppcs.com: ocn55

5.5% off

Frozencpu: pcapex

5% off

Jab-tech: facebook

5% off


----------



## SilentX999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Hey, just a quick question for you WC gurus. I just picked up some MIPS blocks for my mobo and I noticed a small ding on the nickel plated side. Should I be worried about this?
> 
> Here is a pic of what I'm trying to describe:
> 
> 
> 
> The ding is on the right side toward the bottom near my thumb.
> 
> Thanks!


Nah, does it even come in contact with anything on that area?
Even if it did, it wouldnt change much. If youre still worried try using a thicker material interface, or pads.

I didnt enter this area of WC for long, im more of a DIY and there isnt so much need for absolute perfection as im used to. (at least not everywhere)


----------



## SoloTwo

It has begun.







Build log.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yes -
> 
> ppcs.com: ocn55
> 
> 5.5% off
> 
> Frozencpu: ocn
> 
> 5.1% off
> 
> Jab-tech: facebook
> 
> 5% off


Fixed.


----------



## Simplynicko

about to start reading... from the begging...


----------



## derickwm

Oooo shiny


----------



## RKTGX95

Have anyone here tried or considered the Primochill CTR Frosted tube reservoir? any ideas on the effect with either dyed liquid or LED lighting?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## derickwm

ThinkCell


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> I agree with the standoffs, I dont know why they didnt center them but oh well. Here is some pics, I removed the 5.25 bay though and added some rubber strips the bay res since I took theses so its not hanging out anymore.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The threads on 2 alphacool bards are to long to use on the xspc bulk head so I had to use swiftech comps for now. Im playing with the idea of drilling 2 holes, one above each rad and putting a qdc at each end right now. Not sure when I would get to it but its a maybe for now.


That's looking good.

I like the way you routed the tubing, is simple. I wanted my radiator in and outlets at the back also but couldn't get the right angled quick disconnects on the radiator and the existing holes at the front to work with my pump placement. Been considering drilling holes at the back when I bring the motherboard forward a bit will have to wait for the board before I have an idea for space and what I can do with it. Case is a lot more challenging than I first thought it would be, mostly because of the poor layout I think and big radiators.

I noticed yesterday the PCI slot holder that you screw onto the case is too tall. Is yours? My GTX Titan wasn't seated properly at all because of it. It's a good 2-2.5mm too tall.



Looking forward to seeing your GTX Titans under water.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <
> 
> 
> ref="http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/special-edition-ek-supremacy-clean-csq---gold-plexi" id="user_yui_3_7_3_1_1369650281257_906" style="font-family:verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif;line-height:normal;background-color:rgb(245,245,245);" target="_blank" name="user_yui_3_7_3_1_1369650281257_906">ThinkCell


Oh dam that's pretty. Thinkcell was a good idea, a lot of good is coming from it.


----------



## Alatar

Haven't bought any new watercooling gear in well over a year but got a delivery today















And I really need to learn to use my dslr. But oh well.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Which one is better: any Masterkleer or Tygon R3603 tubing?
Better as in flexibility and the change of plasticizing. They will be used with Feser One UV Red


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Haven't bought any new watercooling gear in well over a year but got a delivery today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I really need to learn to use my dslr. But oh well.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Haven't bought any new watercooling gear in well over a year but got a delivery today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I really need to learn to use my dslr. But oh well.


Yummi


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> I agree with the standoffs, I dont know why they didnt center them but oh well. Here is some pics, I removed the 5.25 bay though and added some rubber strips the bay res since I took theses so its not hanging out anymore.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The threads on 2 alphacool bards are to long to use on the xspc bulk head so I had to use swiftech comps for now. Im playing with the idea of drilling 2 holes, one above each rad and putting a qdc at each end right now. Not sure when I would get to it but its a maybe for now.
> 
> 
> 
> That's looking good.
> 
> I like the way you routed the tubing, is simple. I wanted my radiator in and outlets at the back also but couldn't get the right angled quick disconnects on the radiator and the existing holes at the front to work with my pump placement. Been considering drilling holes at the back when I bring the motherboard forward a bit will have to wait for the board before I have an idea for space and what I can do with it. Case is a lot more challenging than I first thought it would be, mostly because of the poor layout I think and big radiators.
> 
> I noticed yesterday the PCI slot holder that you screw onto the case is too tall. Is yours? My GTX Titan wasn't seated properly at all because of it. It's a good 2-2.5mm too tall.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to seeing your GTX Titans under water.
Click to expand...

Is there a second set of taller mobo stand offs or a set of holes or slot on the PCI bracket that will let you move the PCI bracket up and down some for adjustment? My buddy had a tech bench with two different length sets of stand offs and that's how his worked.


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yes -
> 
> ppcs.com: ocn55
> 
> 5.5% off
> 
> Frozencpu: pcapex
> 
> 5% off
> 
> Jab-tech: facebook
> 
> 5% off


Thank you, i am on it,...


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Is there a second set of taller mobo stand offs or a set of holes or slot on the PCI bracket that will let you move the PCI bracket up and down some for adjustment? My buddy had a tech bench with two different length sets of stand offs and that's how his worked.


No not at all which is pretty lame.

Going to have to get some longer screws and then plastic washers underneath the board to prop it up a bit higher I think because that'll be the only discrete way to give it some extra height.


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Which one is better: any Masterkleer or Tygon R3603 tubing?
> Better as in flexibility and the change of plasticizing. They will be used with Feser One UV Red


I would recommend Tygon myself. Masterkleer is kind of meh, budget solution.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Haven't bought any new watercooling gear in well over a year but got a delivery today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I really need to learn to use my dslr. But oh well.


Feels like Christmas on.... MAY hey?


----------



## Alatar

Installing the block now. Though I have to wait until wednesday before I can put the card in the loop.


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installing the block now. Though I have to wait until wednesday before I can put the card in the loop.


How is that XSPC X2O 750 pump/res treating you? i just bought the XSPC full Titan block w/back plate, will be using a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 140mm and that said pump/res to push it in it's own loop....good idea? i already have my cpu loop going, with that pump/res with the RS360 rad, i didn't want to go through the hassle of adding the Titan to that loop, pump only cost $50.00...i just want this setup to last til Chistmas, then, i will do one loop for system with better gear,...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A little change around,it will now accept mATX inverted ans well as ITX inverted,ATX spec PSU added for some scale and to see how it all fits.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's Christmas in a box!


_*Do you prefer the Halloween Box?*_



*Blue is also Nice*



*I also really love the pink and purple but the very best is....RED*


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> How is that XSPC X2O 750 pump/res treating you? i just bought the XSPC full Titan block w/back plate, will be using a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 140mm and that said pump/res to push it in it's own loop....good idea? i already have my cpu loop going, with that pump/res with the RS360 rad, i didn't want to go through the hassle of adding the Titan to that loop, pump only cost $50.00...i just want this setup to last til Chistmas, then, i will do one loop for system with better gear,...


It's fine. Not the best thing I've used but it does just fine as long as you aren't running a super complicated loop with multiple GPUs and all that.

Installed the block but the card isn't part of the loop yet:



(and yes I know it's in a x8 slot, it's just there for show, wanted to see how it looks like)


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> It's fine. Not the best thing I've used but it does just fine as long as you aren't running a super complicated loop with multiple GPUs and all that.
> 
> Installed the block but the card isn't part of the loop yet:
> 
> 
> 
> (and yes I know it's in a x8 slot, it's just there for show, wanted to see how it looks like)


I should have gotten THAT block, is it better than the XSPC JOINT?


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> It's fine. Not the best thing I've used but it does just fine as long as you aren't running a super complicated loop with multiple GPUs and all that.
> 
> Installed the block but the card isn't part of the loop yet:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and yes I know it's in a x8 slot, it's just there for show, wanted to see how it looks like)


I thought you were going to phase change the gpu as well? Or is that a later project


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's Christmas in a box!
> 
> 
> 
> _*Do you prefer the Halloween Box?*_
Click to expand...

Considering that's my birthday, yes!


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> I thought you were going to phase change the gpu as well? Or is that a later project


I was going to make a chiller for it (from an old AC) which requires a normal block as well so I'll be doing normal water first. Then assuming I have the time I'll work on the chiller in June.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> I should have gotten THAT block, is it better than the XSPC JOINT?


even if there's a difference I doubt it's big.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> _*Do you prefer the Halloween Box?*_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Blue is also Nice*
> 
> 
> 
> *I also really love the pink and purple but the very best is....RED*


you know, sometimes i confuse this with sorcery. (because both are equally awesome!)

btw, anyone:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Have anyone here tried or considered the Primochill CTR Frosted tube reservoir? any ideas on the effect with either dyed liquid or LED lighting?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> you know, sometimes i confuse this with sorcery. (because both are equally awesome!)


I can choose 16 colors total. White is also a nice one.

But to answer your yesterday question about my Quad HD 7970, I sold them for 2000$ last month, a price that I wouldn't get anymore (with blocks). My quad HD 7970 was used to browse the net lately so now I'm waiting for Volcanic Island.

I am also trying many cards and I'll try the GTX 780 this week, suppose to receive it soon.


----------



## Ash2097




----------



## SlaveOnDope

Old 45-40nm stuff but still proud.

EVGA E760
i7 920 D0 @ 3.8ghz 1.1v
3x4gb Samsung low volt/profiles @ 1814mhz 888 1.5v
5870+2x5970's
Crucial M225 128gb, 2xWD Blacks RAID0, Sammy 2tb
OCZ ZX 1250w

MCP655B->Apogee XT rev.2 modded->XSPC 5870->DD 5970x2->Coolgate 560->MCR120->Black Ice GT 120->MCR240 w/Res
Pushed by Aerocool 120/140 Sharks.
Piped with Primochill Flex Pro LRT


----------



## pc-illiterate

slave, that is 1 killer ghetto set-up right there. pure awesome


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Could anyone comment if the regular red and black theme of a loop could somehow work with a pinch of green in it? (in any shape or form?)


here is mine


----------



## mattcube64

Am I a fool if I get the EK Titan XXL waterblock/backplate combo? It's easily the most aesthetically pleasing combo in my eyes - I want simple, and I want all black. And I want complete coverage. The XSPC combo was close - but that visible copper when mounted drives me nuts.

I ask cause it's an Acetal + Nickel. Granted, the nickel plating seems to be interior, only, so you can't see anything. But still, I've heard bad things. It seems everything is good nowadays in mid-2013. But I gotta ask before I drop $150 + shipping on it.


----------



## ltulod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlaveOnDope*
> 
> Old 45-40nm stuff but still proud.
> 
> EVGA E760
> i7 920 D0 @ 3.8ghz 1.1v
> 3x4gb Samsung low volt/profiles @ 1814mhz 888 1.5v
> 5870+2x5970's
> Crucial M225 128gb, 2xWD Blacks RAID0, Sammy 2tb
> OCZ ZX 1250w
> 
> MCP655B->Apogee XT rev.2 modded->XSPC 5870->DD 5970x2->Coolgate 560->MCR120->Black Ice GT 120->MCR240 w/Res
> Pushed by Aerocool 120/140 Sharks.
> Piped with Primochill Flex Pro LRT


The geekness on this setup knows no bounds.


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*


WOW, nice Rig,......jelly.


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> Am I a fool if I get the EK Titan XXL waterblock/backplate combo? It's easily the most aesthetically pleasing combo in my eyes - I want simple, and I want all black. And I want complete coverage. The XSPC combo was close - but that visible copper when mounted drives me nuts.
> 
> I ask cause it's an Acetal + Nickel. Granted, the nickel plating seems to be interior, only, so you can't see anything. But still, I've heard bad things. It seems everything is good nowadays in mid-2013. But I gotta ask before I drop $150 + shipping on it.


I am already questioning my XSPC combo purchase, oh, well, i STILL can't wait to get it,.....


----------



## carlhil2

Has ANYONE used the Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 140mm rad, i am trying to find out if it is good enough on it's own to keep my Titan chilled, is the performance similar to a regular 240mm?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The color of the coolant is fantastic!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> Has ANYONE used the Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 140mm rad, i am trying to find out if it is good enough on it's own to keep my Titan chilled, is the performance similar to a regular 240mm?


I bet if you don't mind having two fans in push/pull at higher rpm on the monsta it would do, but I doubt you'd get a good deltaT.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> I bet if you don't mind having two fans in push/pull at higher rpm on the monsta it would do, but I doubt you'd get a good deltaT.


As long as he keeps it under 70C he'll be fine. Which he should definitely not have any problems maintaining.


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The color of the coolant is fantastic!


Thanks, colour came out well


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> I bet if you don't mind having two fans in push/pull at higher rpm on the monsta it would do, but I doubt you'd get a good deltaT.


Yeah, i'm going to be using a couple of 120mm 2500 rpm fans with 140-120mm adapters in push/pull,...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Thanks, colour came out well


Mayhems pastel red or just dye?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I can choose 16 colors total. White is also a nice one.
> 
> But to answer your yesterday question about my Quad HD 7970, I sold them for 2000$ last month, a price that I wouldn't get anymore (with blocks). My quad HD 7970 was used to browse the net lately so now I'm waiting for Volcanic Island.
> 
> I am also trying many cards and I'll try the GTX 780 this week, suppose to receive it soon.


that's a great price for 4 blocked 7970's that are that old. i'm also waiting for AMD's next offering and wonder if i should get another 7950 or two sometime soon or not... (which is twice as difficult to decide because i have 7970 PCB and now it is like a rare god card







)

so many colors, i bet you can sometimes just sit there, look at your water cooled loop and change colors for hours









btw, with my 7950 i just play TF2, Vice City, old C&C game occasionally and write these replies on OCN (and some Youtubez...). so i'm the totally perfect candidate for anothe 7950








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> here is mine


Ooh nice









i am considering either a bit darker green tone or the same with a slight UV glow. (which will require some close to red colored UV reactive fans or something too)

not sure but i feel that the camera haven't done enough justice to that loop. (i bet it looks great in person)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












gives me a feeling of:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Mayhems pastel red or just dye?


Pastel red with a little dye


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> Has ANYONE used the Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 140mm rad, i am trying to find out if it is good enough on it's own to keep my Titan chilled, is the performance similar to a regular 240mm?


Go back to the post i left for you:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Here's a tip: for every core (cpu or gpu), one (1) 120mm x 120mm x 35mm radiator will work good as a starting point.
> 
> Ie:
> 
> 2600k: RS120
> Titan: RS120
> 
> 2600k + Titan: RS240
> 
> 2600k + Sli Titan: RS360
> 
> RS series are ~35mm thick. So i used it as an example to start.
> 
> ***Anything*** larger or thicker or longer, etc. will be better to a certain point (law of diminishing return).


If you have any doubts, why not stick with air or buy a closed loop Titan cooler???:


----------



## SoloTwo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Go back to the post i left for you:
> If you have any doubts, why not stick with air or buy a closed loop Titan cooler???:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What in the hell is that thing...


----------



## lowfat

Before:


After:


----------



## mattcube64

Alright, gonna pull the trigger on the last of my watercooling parts tonight (outside of tubing/fittings) so that the order is in by tomorrow morning when everyone gets back to work.

I currently have a 360mm and 240mm rad. EK X-Res combo pump/res. I just need blocks and fans.

I had narrowed all my choices down to a few finalists - I want quality stuff with good reviews; but aesthetics also ultimately drove me to these:





Any reason I should hesitate? Thanks!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:


Ajhdfhtuiorweovufhvbsdnwe how?









Jeffinslaw


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Ajhdfhtuiorweovufhvbsdnwe how?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


LOL. I used Mother's aluminum polishing compound, a drill, a buffing pad that was from a headlight polishing kit, and about 10 minutes. Just went ham on it. I only wish I could get the insides of the block a bit better.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> What in the hell is that thing...


This is a close loop GPU block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Ajhdfhtuiorweovufhvbsdnwe how?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Its the new version of the block, lol

The clean version http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supremacy-clean-csq-nickel.html


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Go back to the post i left for you:
> If you have any doubts, why not stick with air or buy a closed loop Titan cooler???:


Lol, nah, i'm good, i already have cpu on water, already bought pump/res, block and rad for gpu, forgot about what you had said earlier, just trying to get input on the 140mm Monsta rad, good looking out,....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> What in the hell is that thing...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> This is a close loop GPU block.
> Its the new version of the block, lol
> 
> The clean version http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supremacy-clean-csq-nickel.html
Click to expand...

Yes, there's a been a few closed loop coolers now available. some where designed from the AIC. Arctic has this one now. I guess card makers and cooler makers took notice to the guys modding H40s and slapping them on their gpu







.

There's a need for this imho, since they're folks not too "ready" yet to go with a full custom loop and its potential dangers







. Just like an H40, its a bolt on water cooling kit ready to go.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Its the new version of the block, lol
> 
> The clean version http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supremacy-clean-csq-nickel.html


IMO that version is too boring.


----------



## rmcknight36

Mine as of right now, should be back up and running by the weekend


----------



## lilchronic

some pics


----------



## Valgaur

Hey guys thought I'd let you see the wood I'm using and the color of stains im choosing from.









Normal Pine Edge Glued wood


Traditional Cherry


Cabernet


Golden Mahogany on the Left and Red Oak on the Right


Red Mahogany on the Left and Red Chestnut on the right


Tell me which colors you guys like!









I know my camera sucks


----------



## setza

I finally got my desk I ordered because my pc wouldn't fit in the last one. At least everything turned out nicely.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hey guys thought I'd let you see the wood I'm using and the color of stains im choosing from.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Normal Pine Edge Glued wood
> 
> 
> Traditional Cherry
> 
> 
> Cabernet
> 
> 
> Golden Mahogany on the Left and Red Oak on the Right
> 
> 
> Red Mahogany on the Left and Red Chestnut on the right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tell me which colors you guys like!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know my camera sucks


Cabernet


----------



## Kaneda13

Here's how my mod ended up this weekend:


----------



## sakerfalcon

I'm a boring guy, so I like traditional Cherry.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Here's how my mod ended up this weekend:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing! I've always liked the FT03


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys,

I've been working on a little DIY electronics idea that would allow PWM fans or pumps to be controlled via PWM from a normal variable voltage fan controller.



This pic shows the speed control and the switch for fan controller or manual speed control operation.



Here it is set up on my electronics bench: . . .It's in manual mode and set at about 12% as a minimum:



I started a thread for it here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1395117/diy-voltage-controlled-scalable-pwm-controller

Feedback is appreciated,

Darlene


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've been working on a little DIY electronics idea that would allow PWM fans or pumps to be controlled via PWM from a normal variable voltage fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> This pic shows the speed control and the switch for fan controller or manual speed control operation.
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is set up on my electronics bench: . . .It's in manual mode and set at about 12% as a minimum:
> 
> 
> 
> Feedback is appreciated,
> 
> Darlene


Clean up your desk!







jk jk


----------



## wermad

Just noticed these new fittings from xspc. Their compression fittings are crap but their extensions and plugs are pretty good. Just curious on how these new ones are:


----------



## mattcube64

YOLO! 



I was one part away from going fully EK. I know people don't love them; but I like their aesthetic the best; and everywhere I've looked, outside the nickel stuff, everything reviews toward the top. I just couldn't go with the XSPC block and backplate for my GPU. Ended up going with the smaller block for my Titan, but still getting the backplate which is what you'll see most, anyway.

Also got some rigid e22 acrylic and a single push fitting, just to see how it looks in my case - as the tubing and fittings will likely be my very last purchase.

Got all the accessories I think I could ever need for mounting/hiding wires. I'm sure there's something I'll want - but for the most part, I'd rather pay $25 up front to not have to hit a brick wall every hour when building.

Got some white mayhems dye - gonna see how it looks; but I'm 99% sure I'll be sticking with it.

Got cutters; I have some; but they're covered in gunk - I'd rather have a clean kit.

Got thermal paste - the stuff EK recommends; seems to be decent from what I've read.

Anything I don't use I'll store for next time.

***

That leaves fans and the aforementioned tubing/fittings. And with that, though, we're all done.

A $1500-$2000 build has ballooned to the $4K mark, lol.


----------



## WizardontheJob

I recently caught the water cooling bug and just "finished" my WC build. I guess I'll start by telling you the hardware involved and follow up with some pics and temps. The purpose of this build was to build a silent, hidden, extreme HTPC capable of playing all my favorite games. Thanks for looking, please tell me what you think!

My build:

Mobo: MSI NF980-G65
CPU: AMD Phenom X4 3.2ghz 965 BE Daneb
Memory: 8gb G.Skill DDR3-1600 PC3-12800 CL7-8-7-24 1.6v 4x2gb configuration
Video Card: EVGA nVidia Geforce 660 TI FTW+ 3gb Edition
Sound: Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi
Power Supply: Antec Tru Power 750w
HDD1: Samsung 120gb SSD (OS)
HDD2: Intel 120gb SSD (Games)
HDD3: Western Digital 300gb Black
Slimline DVD/CD-RW
5 Channel fan speed controller
Windows 7 Professional 64bit
All hooked up to my 52" Toshiba Regza @ 1920x1080
Case: My TV stand. I gutted one of the pull out cabinets and mounted a mobo tray inside. I also cut holes and mounted inlet and outlet fans for the compartment.

Cooling:

Pump: Coolance PCP 450 w/speed control nob to about 1/3full (same as Swiftech MPC 655, they were out of stock) and a Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Pom version
CPU: Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 waterblock
Thermal Paste: Swiftech TIMate
Radiator: Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 240. 2x Noctua NF-P12 Fans in a pull config. I custom fab'd the mount to hold the radiator on the outside of the case.
Reservoir: Phobya Balancer 150
Coolant: Koolance LIQ-702BU High Performance Liquid Coolant
I have also added some tiny copper heat sinks to many of the hottest VRM's and capacitors, effectively lowering temps in that area by about 20c! I never thought I would see such improvements from such tiny little sinks. Here's to a longer lasting system!

So far I have the CPU up to a stable 3.8ghz @ 1.45v. Clocking this BE processor to 4ghz is proving to be a task and a half and will require more experimentation (I'm still green when it comes to OC'ing)

But now on to what people really want to see in these post, the pics!

















Oh yea, Temperatures! She idles at about 38c with ambient temps at 27c and heats up to 51c with both prime95 AND Furmark running at the same time. All that and she hardly makes a sound.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> I recently caught the water cooling bug and just "finished" my WC build. I guess I'll start by telling you the hardware involved and follow up with some pics and temps. The purpose of this build was to build a silent, hidden, extreme HTPC capable of playing all my favorite games. Thanks for looking, please tell me what you think!
> 
> My build:
> 
> Mobo: MSI NF980-G65
> CPU: AMD Phenom X4 3.2ghz 965 BE Daneb
> Memory: 8gb G.Skill DDR3-1600 PC3-12800 CL7-8-7-24 1.6v 4x2gb configuration
> Video Card: EVGA nVidia Geforce 660 TI FTW+ 3gb Edition
> Sound: Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi
> Power Supply: Antec Tru Power 750w
> HDD1: Samsung 120gb SSD (OS)
> HDD2: Intel 120gb SSD (Games)
> HDD3: Western Digital 300gb Black
> Slimline DVD/CD-RW
> 5 Channel fan speed controller
> Windows 7 Professional 64bit
> All hooked up to my 52" Toshiba Regza @ 1920x1080
> Case: My TV stand. I gutted one of the pull out cabinets and mounted a mobo tray inside. I also cut holes and mounted inlet and outlet fans for the compartment.
> 
> Cooling:
> 
> Pump: Coolance PCP 450 w/speed control nob to about 1/3full (same as Swiftech MPC 655, they were out of stock) and a Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Pom version
> CPU: Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 waterblock
> Thermal Paste: Swiftech TIMate
> Radiator: Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 240. 2x Noctua NF-P12 Fans in a pull config. I custom fab'd the mount to hold the radiator on the outside of the case.
> Reservoir: Phobya Balancer 150
> Coolant: Koolance LIQ-702BU High Performance Liquid Coolant
> I have also added some tiny copper heat sinks to many of the hottest VRM's and capacitors, effectively lowering temps in that area by about 20c! I never thought I would see such improvements from such tiny little sinks. Here's to a longer lasting system!
> 
> So far I have the CPU up to a stable 3.8ghz @ 1.45v. Clocking this BE processor to 4ghz is proving to be a task and a half and will require more experimentation (I'm still green when it comes to OC'ing)
> 
> But now on to what people really want to see in these post, the pics!
> 
> Oh yea, Temperatures! She idles at about 38c with ambient temps at 27c and heats up to 51c with both prime95 AND Furmark running at the same time. All that and she hardly makes a sound.


Looks awesome! I'm glad you were able to get a loop that works well for you. Your temps look pretty good too.


----------



## mattcube64

And fans ordered, too! An expensive night. Time for bed ;p


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Looks awesome! I'm glad you were able to get a loop that works well for you. Your temps look pretty good too.


Thanks Brian! I consider those high remarks coming from a WC veteran such as yourself.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Thanks Brian! I consider those high remarks coming from a WC veteran such as yourself.


Dude you deserve some REP for that. WOW. Now that is some original watercooling right there. Hard to come by these days. You did a great job!


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Dude you deserve some REP for that. WOW. Now that is some original watercooling right there. Hard to come by these days. You did a great job!


Staph it! You're making me blush!









No I'm totally kidding, please send me flowers.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Staph it! You're making me blush!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I'm totally kidding, please send me flowers.


They are on the way. Along with a fruit basket


----------



## Seredin

is your radiator on a hinge?
if so, *genius*!


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just noticed these new fittings from xspc. Their compression fittings are crap but their extensions and plugs are pretty good. Just curious on how these new ones are:


Just fitted a load of the 90 and 45's and there good quality no leaks etc.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Just fitted a load of the 90 and 45's and there good quality no leaks etc.


Got photos? Would like to know what they look like in a build


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Got photos? Would like to know what they look like in a build


There are some Bitspower 90's in there too, but mainly XSPC.

3x 90's on the reservoir, one 45 on the pump top and another 45 on the bottom rad.


----------



## derickwm

ThinkCell


----------



## Alatar

That's a lot of rad....


----------



## derickwm

Never enough


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Never enough


EK are finally making decent res clips then?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> Mine as of right now, should be back up and running by the weekend
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice loop, can't wait to see that beauty filled








nice backplate! where did you get one?

(btw, when you'll fill your system could you report on the VRM temps with that XSPC 7970 water block? really curious how god or badly it would compare to active VRM cooling)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


just out of curiosity, was the motherboard block ever considered to be a part of the loop and then dropped or it never was planned from the beginning?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just noticed these new fittings from xspc. Their compression fittings are crap but their extensions and plugs are pretty good. Just curious on how these new ones are:


some people including I would disagree with that. the XSPC comps are quite good and for the relatively humble price of 4$ a pop are a great option for many.


Spoiler: good example







Source


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> That's a lot of rad....


NO, it's just...
( •_•)
( •_•)>⌐■-■








Rad!

*CSI Miami one liner audio que*


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ThinkCell


It would be even better if it comes with removable fan filter
surely would get one if it comes that way


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ThinkCell


i thought mine was over the top..


----------



## derickwm

Quote:
Originally Posted by *jokrik* 



> It would be even better if it comes with removable fan filter
> surely would get one if it comes that way


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> i thought mine was over the top..


Stay tuned for V2 of this. Coming soon


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> I've had this in my drawer for over a year now and decided to share it with you guys and asky ou for your thoughts. It was originally made for hard copper tube but can be used also with hard acrylic tubes. The sealing is performed with 2 rubber o-rings. First O-ring is in the inner fitting groove and the second o-ring is being compressed by the compression ring and making perfect sealing.


ThinkCell

How about this? When would these compressionfittings be ready for sale?
Me wants..







16 to be precise


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> is your radiator on a hinge?
> if so, *genius*!


Indeed it is. The entire radiator mount is made of 5 simply parts

1/2" aluminum angle iron
all-thread (pretty much a screw with thread from tip to tip, cut to fit)
washers
lock nuts
2 flush mount hinges
oh, and a partridge in a pear tree









I wanted to be able to swing the rad out of the way for easy access to the back of my computer.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just noticed these new fittings from xspc. Their compression fittings are crap


i strong fully disagree.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> After:


I like that!


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ThinkCell


You know, I've got one of those X-Res for the D5 pump with a 250ml res attached to it. I need an additional res clip because the thing wasn't designed for such a big tube. That clip looks perfect.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ThinkCell


That is very tall & majestic reservoir!


----------



## sebkow

anyone try to fit 4 x480 black ice into a sth10 with 2 power supplies?


----------



## DutchChilles

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*






What case is this?


----------



## Ash2097

Corsair 650D


----------



## Thrasher1016

I know I'm days behind on these replies, etc, but I was on a mini-vacation! Bear with the out-of-date converations, please....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petriedish81*
> 
> I would not use a knife or a razor blade. It wants to catch and will make awful cuts. I spent ten bucks on a cheap tube cutter on amazon and works way better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I also got my tube cutters from the Depot, they're Blue "scissor-style" PVC Pipe/Tube cutters for up to 2" PVC Pipe, and they cut through the notoriously tough PrimoFlex Advanced LRT like it's not even there! Prior to that I'd been using some (very expensive and ridiculously sharp) sewing scissors, which are essentially two knives that can chop, and even they were resulting in "pinched cuts".
> 
> Spend the $8-12 locally on some good ones, and you'll never have to worry about a bad cut again! I recommend one with a replaceable blade, too, as I got a 6-pack of replacement blades for like $8, with each blade being "good for up to 500 cuts of 2" PVC Piping or 1000 cuts of 1" PVC Tubing before showing any signs of blade fatigue/dulling". Seriously sharp stuff; if you happen to also be a mob enforcer, they'd probably work great for "enhanced interrogations" as well


I used a combination of razor blades and a Milwaukee Tool tubing cutter on mine. I can't say I'm proud of all of the cuts (I was admittedly rushing toward the end), but on the razor part, I used a cutting block that bicyclists use to guide saw blades when we cut handlebars and fork steerer tubes to size, and that worked like a charm!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> I use this tubing cutter, works great extremely clean cutting with no effort.
> 
> 
> 
> Different fans I'll be using in my build.


I love my NB PK-3s! Glad to see some more going into action!










You may now return to the present day!









Thanks - T


----------



## Knight091

Hello all.

Here is my computer so far. I ran the system last night with no leaks and doing more testing today. I am going to add lighting and have both GTX 690 water blocks glowing red. More updates soon. Your thought...









My system.

Intel i7 3820 @ 4.7GHz
ASUS Rampage IV Formula x79
Corsair 32GB DDR3 1866 MHz
120GB Corsair SSD/WD 300GB VRaptor
QUAD SLI ASUS GTX 690
Corsair H100 water cooling
X-FI sound card
Antec 1200w PSU
Haf 932 case
HP Pro 30" LCD

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/1-42_zpsfe05c682.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/3-12_zps8891127d.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/2-23_zps70201971.jpg.html


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> just out of curiosity, was the motherboard block ever considered to be a part of the loop and then dropped or it never was planned from the beginning?


well this was my first build and first wc setup i did want to add the mobo block too the loop but the bars are too small. im using 1/2 id and the ones on the board are really small i think 3/8?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> well this was my first build and first wc setup i did want to add the mobo block too the loop but the bars are too small. im using 1/2 id and the ones on the board are really small i think 3/8?


so if you were going on 3/8 ID you would have gave it a second thought? (i'm with a similar situation with the Maximus V Formula)


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> so if you were going on 3/8 ID you would have gave it a second thought? (i'm with a similar situation with the Maximus V Formula)


no i want to get these
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p15457_MIPS-ASROCK-Z77-OC-Formula-Set-Nickel-POM-Limited-Edition.html


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> no i want to get these
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p15457_MIPS-ASROCK-Z77-OC-Formula-Set-Nickel-POM-Limited-Edition.html


----------



## LuckyNumber13

So would like everyones opinion on this one..
failing gpu or mobo gone wrong or cpu failure?
so a little back I put my build together (sabertooth z77, i7
3770k, gtx titan, 1200w psu.) so everyone was good
I could surf the net , watch 1080p movies but the moment
I went to try to play a game or do a graphical stress test
my comp would shutdown to a black screen (not reboot but
shutdown). so I reset gpu, got a second 1200w psu to test
with and done a bunch of other things..still freezing.
lately though now right off the start of the comp it start to
have lines/ depixel (even in bios) then when the windows trys
to start (at the logo part) it freezes and goes to black screen.
any thoughts.. i'm almost positive it's the gpu.
this is what it looks like.


not sure if I posted on here.i have these on my build log but I'll post neways
just to keep the flow of comp pics going lol


----------



## Sethris225

Bwahaha!
I can finally join!


'pologize for the carpet.
Thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1395419/build-log-dissonance-itx-wc-loop-2-5in-thin-all-bits-fittings-custom-case-670


----------



## morencyam

Lucky, have you tried a different pci-e slot? As a last resort you could put the stock cooler back on and see if the same thing happens.


----------



## jokrik

Lucky have you tested everything with stock setup and cooler at the beginning?


----------



## nagle3092

Shiney

















Dont mind the little hand in the background, my littlest loves computers too.

Little update, they sure do look and feel nice. Except for the cap that's on the female end. Already scratched the piss out of one trying to get the cap off to change it. And the cap didn't even come off. I already want to trash one now. The cap on the male end came off by hand, the other didn't budge, with 2 wrenches. User configurable my ass.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Lucky I had a similar issue that turned out to be poor contact between my gpu die and my block when I added a second card. Problem only presented itself under gpu load.


----------



## skyn3t

Facelift coming up









all my MDPC heatshrink "gone for good










Now heatshrink less looks way better.













Black Hawk Down going to receive aanother rx240 by this weekend.


----------



## lowfat

Heatshrinkless FTW. Looks better. Easier to do. And 11ty times more durable.


----------



## xxhaloownerxx

I spent money again!

Finally got my pump/res and my final rad. Still no fans for it yet. They weren't in stock.








I also got these really nice heatsinks to replace my Vengeance heatsinks.

How hot should your waterpump get? I was testing it with one of my other rads and it managed to get really, very hot. Not unbearable to the touch, but really uncomfortable to touch anyways.
Heading down to Micro Center to pick up my Raystorm and fittings tomorrow. Hope to be completely under water soon


----------



## lowfat

You don't want to run DDCs w/ a light load. That is actually the way most people kill them. The run significantly cooler when you have a loop w/ higher restriction.


----------



## xxhaloownerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You don't want to run DDCs w/ a light load. That is actually the way most people kill them. The run significantly cooler when you have a loop w/ higher restriction.


Gotcha, it should be okay once I get everything hooked up then. I just tested the res + pump + rad for 15 minutes to see how hard it was to fill up, then took it all apart to dry.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ThinkCell


I keep throwing my credit card at the screen but nothing happens...

But seriously. Has cutting it sideways in half been considered also? A triple 240mm version? That would be awesome to sit under the desk of my test bench.


----------



## _REAPER_

what is best to run pumps in parallel or series?


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> what is best to run pumps in parallel or series?


Series. Parallel adds minimaly more flow than a single pump, and if one of the two goes you lose almost all flow.

A pump does not restrict flow, and if one dies the pressure loss is not much greater than 2 90 fittings. Seperated or right next to each other has little impact as well.


----------



## wermad

Anyone know of some radiator brackets to extend a rad > 25mm? Need to push out my rad a bit more. Might just buy a dead 38mm fan and use the housing.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> I keep throwing my credit card at the screen but nothing happens...
> 
> But seriously. Has cutting it sideways in half been considered also? A triple 240mm version? That would be awesome to sit under the desk of my test bench.


Once we get this version updated and released then we might be able to visit a triple 240mm version


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Series. Parallel adds minimaly more flow than a single pump, and if one of the two goes you lose almost all flow.
> 
> A pump does not restrict flow, and if one dies the pressure loss is not much greater than 2 90 fittings. Seperated or right next to each other has little impact as well.


Do you have a picture of what this looks like, sorry for the stupid question but I want to make sure I do it right the first time


----------



## SoloTwo

Red Bitspower reservoir with 2 white led's, not exactly bright.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> 
> 
> Red Bitspower reservoir with 2 white led's, not exactly bright.


that sir is one heck of a res


----------



## jokrik

I've been having some problem
my pump has been very noisy because I can still see some bubbles in the loop since my last drain (which is around 2 weeks ago)
I've been loop bleeding for the first 3 days (with one pump)
and the rig is currently running with two pump while I keep the res plug off , its been active for more than 2 weeks already

and when its off, I keep getting back flow

any suggestion how to remove the bubbles?

I found no problem in the past with the exact same setup, 3 days of bleeding has removed all the bubbles but not this time


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I've been having some problem
> my pump has been very noisy because I can still see some bubbles in the loop since my last drain (which is around 2 weeks ago)
> I've been loop bleeding for the first 3 days (with one pump)
> and the rig is currently running with two pump while I keep the res plug off , its been active for more than 2 weeks already
> 
> and when its off, I keep getting back flow
> 
> any suggestion how to remove the bubbles?
> 
> I found no problem in the past with the exact same setup, 3 days of bleeding has removed all the bubbles but not this time


Does the flow seem as strong as it was (activity in the res as strong?) you might have a look inside your CPU block to make sure that debris has not built up around the jet plate opening for whatever reason restricting flow if this started happening right after the latest drain and fill.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Does the flow seem as strong as it was (activity in the res as strong?) you might have a look inside your CPU block to make sure that debris has not built up around the jet plate opening for whatever reason restricting flow if this started happening right after the latest drain and fill.


Yeah the flow is just as strong as usual
I've no idea where I did wrong and I found no debris around the jet
, I did clean the CPU block by taking it apart and change the jet (I found that I havent been using an optimize 1155 jet all along)
I'm pretty sure I've assembled it well though

there are so many bubbles inside, i've no clue whats going on


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Does the flow seem as strong as it was (activity in the res as strong?) you might have a look inside your CPU block to make sure that debris has not built up around the jet plate opening for whatever reason restricting flow if this started happening right after the latest drain and fill.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah the flow is just as strong as usual
> I've no idea where I did wrong, I did clean the CPU block by taking it apart and change the plate (I found that I havent been using an optimize 1155 plate all along)
> I'm pretty sure I've assembled it well though
> 
> there are so many bubbles inside, i've no clue whats going on
Click to expand...

I have a multi pump, rad, block system as well so if the jet plate is installed correctly and clean. Go back to the basics and make sure all rad tank plugs are tight as well as all the fittings. Its possible that it is pulling new air into the sytem rather than not being able to get all of the original air out ( I have had this happen) especially a plug at the highest part of the rad.
If you tighten the res cap and let it run for a while and then loosen it, does the water level jump up higher than the original fill line?
If it does you are probably pulling new air into the system somewhere.


----------



## wRRM

Is the EK-Supremacy CPU block fitted with a good jet plate from factory or should i change it for 1155?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wRRM*
> 
> Is the EK-Supremacy CPU block fitted with a good jet plate from factory or should i change it for 1155?


You'll need to change it out before installation to a J2 plate:



http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990556.pdf


----------



## wRRM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> You'll need to change it out before installation to a J2 plate:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990556.pdf


Oh, how much difference does J1 vs J2 make with a 3770k?

I have noticed very uneaven temps with the stock plate and just thought that this was the work of evil Intel and that deliding was my only option, maybe this was wrong?


----------



## derickwm

Depends when you bought it. If you bought it for before May 23rd 2013 then you will see improvements by switching your current jet plate to J3, but if you bought it after May 23rd, or haven't bought it yet, then it will come with J3 by default.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends when you bought it. If you bought it for before May 23rd 2013 then you will see improvements by switching your current jet plate to J3, but if you bought it after May 23rd, or haven't bought it yet, then it will come with J3 by default.


Whats the difference between the J1, J2 and J4 plates other than thickness?


----------



## wRRM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends when you bought it. If you bought it for before May 23rd 2013 then you will see improvements by switching your current jet plate to J3, but if you bought it after May 23rd, or haven't bought it yet, then it will come with J3 by default.


Great chart!

I bought it in april from a retailer in sweden, they have probably had it in stock for a couple of months too.

So i will "in the best scneario" see about 1 degree less in the water temp after the cpu?

How about the temps, can this make the temps more even or should i just delid it instead? I've already bought the Liquid Ultra and have a vise ready for action at home.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends when you bought it. If you bought it for before May 23rd 2013 then you will see improvements by switching your current jet plate to J3, but if you bought it after May 23rd, or haven't bought it yet, then it will come with J3 by default.
> 
> 
> 
> Whats the difference between the J1, J2 and J4 plates other than thickness?
Click to expand...

Slightly difference designs as well










Just small modifications here and there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wRRM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends when you bought it. If you bought it for before May 23rd 2013 then you will see improvements by switching your current jet plate to J3, but if you bought it after May 23rd, or haven't bought it yet, then it will come with J3 by default.
> 
> 
> 
> Great chart!
> 
> I bought it in april from a retailer in sweden, they have probably had it in stock for a couple of months too.
> 
> So i will "in the best scneario" see about 1 degree less in the water temp after the cpu?
> 
> How about the temps, can this make the temps more even or should i just delid it instead? I've already bought the Liquid Ultra and have a vise ready for action at home.
Click to expand...

For even temps delidding would probably be best. These mounting screws will help with that


----------



## wRRM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Slightly difference designs as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just small modifications here and there.
> 
> For even temps delidding would probably be best. These mounting screws will help with that


First of all, thanks for all the great answers!

I might try with the IHS just slapped on top for starters, im probably going to order some more stuff from EK and will get those precise mounting screws at the same time then!









I would +rep you if i could, but i guess your reputation is already high enough with those answers!


----------



## derickwm

Hehe it's np, I work for EK


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends when you bought it. If you bought it for before May 23rd 2013 then you will see improvements by switching your current jet plate to J3, but if you bought it after May 23rd, or haven't bought it yet, then it will come with J3 by default.


Interesting chart, still good to see that my Supreme HF Cu is still a decent waterblock for SB/IB CPU's. I had this idea to switch to the Supremacy line, hopefully the new ones without the circles, but i might wait until the next generation to change it.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe it's np, I work for EK


Well sir wanna hook me up for my build!


----------



## bundymania

Say Hello to this coolerfamily


----------



## derickwm




----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


I thought you guys were getting rid of the gold fish, not actually make it gold?


----------



## tiborrr12

That's the original fish block - EK-FC Titan, not the Titan SE.


----------



## derickwm

Goldfish for daysssss


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> That's the original fish block - EK-FC Titan, not the Titan SE.


Ok I wasn't aware both were still going to be sold. That is cool then.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends when you bought it. If you bought it for before May 23rd 2013 then you will see improvements by switching your current jet plate to J3, but if you bought it after May 23rd, or haven't bought it yet, then it will come with J3 by default.


I see conspicuous absences from that chart......

I still have my Supreme HF block,still one of the best looking blocks to date.


----------



## GEARjmr

Hi All!! Managed a few updates on my set up in the last few days. Switched out the plumbing lines for better flow and looks, went from Feser Blue UV Tubing to Primochill Blue UV. The Primo is much more clear but a helluva lot stiffer than the Feser making the short run from res to pump top a biatch...lol. Did a little more painting and re- installed the Block LEDs. Still gotta find some custom ram heat spreaders as the Vengeance ones are really harshin' my mellow, if anyone out there can throw up a link for those that would be awesome. Thanks in advance. Here's a little before and after pron.



Right after swapping out from HAF 932 tro SM8.



After adding Tube Res, RX480 Rad and Dual Pump Top.



Short run from Res bottom to Pump Top.



And how it looks now.



Sleeved a coupla Sata cables, didn't turn out too bad.



Leak testing.


----------



## derickwm

The only one I can think of that's missing is Heatkiller, not sure why Moonman left it out.


----------



## sate200

this pictures of Iphone 5, sorry for the quality!!!


----------



## PedroC1999

You could take that with a VGA camera and it would still look good, nice!


----------



## Jorvin

put in a second res, was so empty over the pumps before


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> this pictures of Iphone 5, sorry for the quality!!!


Nicely done


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Goldfish for daysssss


Really looking forward to the build this is going in


----------



## ledzepp3

Hey guys, I've got a quick question







I'd really like to light up the res in my upcoming "Project D'yer Mak'er", and I'm wondering how I could go about this to get a lice glow? I'll be using a 250mm Bitspower res and Mayhems pastel white


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hey guys, I've got a quick question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd really like to light up the res in my upcoming "Project D'yer Mak'er", and I'm wondering how I could go about this to get a *lice glow*? I'll be using a 250mm Bitspower res and Mayhems pastel white


Well, first you inject 'em with some phosphor, then let em go ! those lice will be lit up then !!

sorry, couldnt resist


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Well, first you inject 'em with some phosphor, then let em go ! those lice will be lit up then !!
> 
> sorry, couldnt resist






Actually, let's dial it back to something that ya know- I can use







you so clevah


----------



## Roikyou

First close call.

Sitting down playing Van Helsing, notice an artifact across the screen. Thought was kind of weird but okay. Little bit later, went from a little, to the whole screen was a rainbow of colors and computer froze, looked to the case, saw moisture on the inside of the plexiglass side panel.

Went to the back of the power supply, turned it off, pulled the plug, then pulled the side cover off. (been running xspc ec6 for almost a year except when I switched from 680's to a titan was my last change in plumbing little over a month or so ago (when they were released). After pulling the side panel, saw water on the power supply (fan pointing up, easy access for water), motherboard, and on top of the video card (titan) was a nice pool of water/xspc ec6. You could see a couple drips from the input of the CPU water block.

Didn't take any pictures, too busy cleaning up for fear of it sitting too long. Both fittings on the CPU were less than finger tight. Tightened them down, topped of the reservoir, tried to power up, nothing, thought I heard a fizz but nothing. Kept checking fixtures, plugs, etc for moisture, tried the power a couple hours later, nothing.

Was about ready to replace the power supply, put a jumper in the 24 pin to cycle pumps, darn thing started up. Ran for a little bit to check for leaks, decided what the heck, put power back in the motherboard, first it didn't power up. Snugged the power cord in the back, thing lit right up (power, not fire or spark) and booted right up. The only thing I lost was the game profile that I was playing (game ran, couldn't load the character I was playing). I don't know if I'm lucky or grateful or both for low electrical conductivity fluid, which I guess if you run distilled, it might work out the same.

Sorry for the long story.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Mock up board to check clearance....3mm round the edge is not enough,may jack up the unibody by 10mm to give a little breathing room...


----------



## Alatar

Testing loop, tubing is a bit long and so on but I intend to take all the stuff apart before vmodding my Titan so I don't care about details right now:







Spoiler: What my table always looks like after some watercooling installations


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mock up board to check clearance....3mm round the edge is not enough,may jack up the unibody by 10mm to give a little breathing room...


Looks siiiiick
Sign me up for one whenever you go to make more!


----------



## sakerfalcon

Hey B Neg, ever find out the clearance thing?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Hey B Neg, ever find out the clearance thing?


For?

In other news...







XSPC have been busy!


----------



## derickwm

Alatar, why not use the connectors on the other side of the Titan block? Seems like that'd be cleaner and have less tubing.


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alatar, why not use the connectors on the other side of the Titan block? Seems like that'd be cleaner and have less tubing.


Makes the CPU area too cramped. Removing the evap would be a pain. But as I said, it's not final so I'll probably end up trying out a few combos.

One thing I do know is that I'm getting rid of this backplate. Does horrible things for memory OCs.


----------



## derickwm

The backplate makes memory OC's worse? Go on...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For?
> 
> In other news...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC have been busy!


Needs this with some red paint:


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The backplate makes memory OC's worse? Go on...


Well it does lol. Killed a good few hundred MHz from my memory OC.

I mean it's not the block or anything else. There's literally no other option. The backplate is also burning hot.


----------



## derickwm

Interesting.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needs this with some red paint:


challenge accepted!







will do that for my build


----------



## Stateless

I am adding some back plates to my Titan GPU's and therefore need to drain my loop. I am currently running parallel cooling for the 2 GPU's, but was wondering if I should switch to series or not? What is the opinion here on what does a better job?

Thanks!


----------



## derickwm

Doesn't really matter too much.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> challenge accepted!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will do that for my build


Aewsome! Would have liked to get a RIVE but my trusty SB cpu will work fine with the MVE.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For?


Bitspower / fitting threads.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Aewsome! Would have liked to get a RIVE but my trusty SB cpu will work fine with the MVE.


I might do some custom paint on it for a symbol or something
as the way my mobo will be setup the writing on the side will be able to be read


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> very nice loop, can't wait to see that beauty filled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice backplate! where did you get one?
> 
> (btw, when you'll fill your system could you report on the VRM temps with that XSPC 7970 water block? really curious how god or badly it would compare to active VRM cooling)
> just out of curiosity, was the motherboard block ever considered to be a part of the loop and then dropped or it never was planned from the beginning?
> some people including I would disagree with that. the XSPC comps are quite good and for the relatively humble price of 4$ a pop are a great option for many.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: good example
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> 
> 
> NO, it's just...
> ( •_•)
> ( •_•)>⌐■-■
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rad!
> 
> *CSI Miami one liner audio que*


Will let you know about the vrm temps







And i got the backplate from coldzero


----------



## rmcknight36

Need 2 more fittings and i can start my leak test. Should be here by Friday. So in the meantime i did some work with my ssd


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends when you bought it. If you bought it for before May 23rd 2013 then you will see improvements by switching your current jet plate to J3, but if you bought it after May 23rd, or haven't bought it yet, then it will come with J3 by default.


No offence to the EK peeps... but charts like this always make me feel really good about going with the Raystorm... never the absolute best on any chart... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> No offence to the EK peeps... but charts like this always make me feel really good about going with the Raystorm... never the absolute best on any chart... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.


Which is why I bought mine.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> No offence to the EK peeps... but charts like this always make me feel really good about going with the Raystorm... never the absolute best on any chart... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.


All the benchmarks I've seen have the Koolance 380i perform more favorably than the Supermacy J3, and even if they were tied, it's certainly not terrible to the degree that graph states.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> No offence to the EK peeps... but charts like this always make me feel really good about going with the Raystorm... never the absolute best on any chart... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the benchmarks I've seen have the Koolance 380i perform more favorably than the Supermacy J3, and even if they were tied, it's certainly not terrible to the degree that graph states.
Click to expand...

What sake said. That chart doesn't jive with any other testing have seen or personal experience.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> No offence to the EK peeps... but charts like this always make me feel really good about going with the Raystorm... never the absolute best on any chart... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Which is why I bought mine.
Click to expand...

And it looks fantastic.







Raystorm ftw.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> Need 2 more fittings and i can start my leak test. Should be here by Friday. So in the meantime i did so work with my ssd
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice







is the ssd painted or vinyl?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is the ssd painted or vinyl?


Looks like vinyl if he painted that he is the man....


----------



## SoloTwo




----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> No offence to the EK peeps... but charts like this always make me feel really good about going with the Raystorm... never the absolute best on any chart... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the benchmarks I've seen have the Koolance 380i perform more favorably than the Supermacy J3, and even if they were tied, it's certainly not terrible to the degree that graph states.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> No offence to the EK peeps... but charts like this always make me feel really good about going with the Raystorm... never the absolute best on any chart... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the benchmarks I've seen have the Koolance 380i perform more favorably than the Supermacy J3, and even if they were tied, it's certainly not terrible to the degree that graph states.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What sake said. That chart doesn't jive with any other testing have seen or personal experience.
Click to expand...

We don't make the charts, if you're skeptical head over to Xtremesystems.org and ask Moonman about them. Stren's WB roundup shows the 380I pulling ahead on SB-E. Different core layout, different results.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> // ... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.


True. Second part because it is made in China.


----------



## Killa Cam

hey guys, so i just got me a mcp35x that i want to try in my loop. ive never had a ddc pump before, and i know they're best used for high restricted loops, so im wondering if my current setup is enough or is it too much restriction. loop: 250mm res> mcp35x> monsta 240> ut60 280> 2 gpu blocks> vrm/mosfet block> ut60 420> cpu block> res. im thinking about adding a 140mm ut60 after the gpu and before the vrm block. so will the pump be efficient, or is it safer to get another and add more head pressure? also, do i need a heatsink for the mcp35x?


----------



## wRRM

Did some rework on my loop yesterday.

Before

After


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is the ssd painted or vinyl?


Vinyl


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Looks like vinyl if he painted that he is the man....


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Looks like vinyl if he painted that he is the man....
> 
> 
> 
> I am the man! But its not painted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....Sorry for the double post
Click to expand...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends when you bought it. If you bought it for before May 23rd 2013 then you will see improvements by switching your current jet plate to J3, but if you bought it after May 23rd, or haven't bought it yet, then it will come with J3 by default.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offence to the EK peeps... but charts like this always make me feel really good about going with the Raystorm... never the absolute best on any chart... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All the benchmarks I've seen have the Koolance 380i perform more favorably than the Supermacy J3, and even if they were tied, it's certainly not terrible to the degree that graph states.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We don't make the charts, if you're skeptical head over to Xtremesystems.org and ask Moonman about them. Stren's WB roundup shows the 380I pulling ahead on SB-E. Different core layout, different results.
Click to expand...

That's result for IVY. You guys missed out the result for SB/SB-E. Still, Raystorm not too bad either.


----------



## macandy13

Well guys I just couldn't resist, been staring at these for days now :L Nice hefty step up from my lonesome 660 ti











Need to wait till next month before i get some blocks and fittings. least it gives me plenty of time to clean up what i have


----------



## wRRM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Well guys I just couldn't resist, been staring at these for days now :L Nice hefty step up from my lonesome 660 ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to wait till next month before i get some blocks and fittings. least it gives me plenty of time to clean up what i have


1k pounds?!

It sells for around 546 pounds in sweden and we think computer stuff is overpriced over here.

BIG EDIT

Sorry didnt see you bought two of them, my bad


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That's result for IVY. You guys missed out the result for SB/SB-E. Still, Raystorm not too bad either.


Oh we've seen SB and SB-E, but why would I show the SB/SB-E charts when the user I'm helping out has IB?


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wRRM*
> 
> 1k pounds?!
> 
> It sells for around 546 pounds in sweden and we think computer stuff is overpriced over here.
> 
> BIG EDIT
> 
> Sorry didnt see you bought two of them, my bad


:L yeah decided I would go pretty much all out on two of them


----------



## smex

660ti? alone? naahhw.. ^^


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> 660ti? alone? naahhw.. ^^


Yeah, it just wasn't enough for me :L I've been waiting for the 780's to come out so i could go for the upgrade


----------



## PedroC1999

Still waiting on second shipment, follow up on my buildlog in my sig


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Mock up board to check clearance....3mm round the edge is not enough,may jack up the unibody by 10mm to give a little breathing room...


i knew it would be beautiful, but not that beautiful








(and i swear you got me with that motherboard mock up)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> Will let you know about the vrm temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i got the backplate from coldzero


could you provide a link to thread/site of coldzero? (or a gallery)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> Need 2 more fittings and i can start my leak test. Should be here by Friday. So in the meantime i did some work with my ssd
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


what SSD's are those and what is the artwork itself? (it looks familiar but i can't remember from what)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> No offence to the EK peeps... but charts like this always make me feel really good about going with the Raystorm... never the absolute best on any chart... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.


i think all blocks are good, and those differences in Water cooling are usually barely something to be worried about. it is more a choice of what look/style you wan't than pure performance. (which is why i'm surprised the raystorm does so well at it's price and simplicity)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For?
> 
> In other news...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: XSPC goodness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC have been busy!


i wait for their angle fittings to arrive to retailers (e.g. PPCS) and for them to make a dual bay res that can house one OR two D5's. (not either or)

btw, i know i have asked this quite a bit but any thoughts on Primochill's CTR *Frosted* reservoir?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> hey guys, so i just got me a mcp35x that i want to try in my loop. ive never had a ddc pump before, and i know they're best used for high restricted loops, so im wondering if my current setup is enough or is it too much restriction. loop: 250mm res> mcp35x> monsta 240> ut60 280> 2 gpu blocks> vrm/mosfet block> ut60 420> cpu block> res. im thinking about adding a 140mm ut60 after the gpu and before the vrm block. so will the pump be efficient, or is it safer to get another and add more head pressure? also, do i need a heatsink for the mcp35x?


You should try out slowing the pump w/ PWM anyways. It would be a waste of IMO its best feature if you don't.


----------



## tiborrr12

@lowfat: Say bye bye to fish block, here comes the submarine block - the EK-FC Titan SE:


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @lowfat: Say bye bye to fish block, here comes the submarine block - the EK-FC Titan SE:


i'll admit, didn't see that one coming. (and i'm sure many others too)

any pics with LEDs?


----------



## lowfat

Will there be a non XXL version?


----------



## tiborrr12

So now you want a non-XXL version?










@RKTGX95: Yes, this is a pre-preduction sample, the production ones will feature two 3mm LED slots.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @lowfat: Say bye bye to fish block, here comes the submarine block - the EK-FC Titan SE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll admit, didn't see that one coming. (and i'm sure many others too)
> 
> any pics with LEDs?
Click to expand...

Might have some tomorrow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Will there be a non XXL version?


----------



## lowfat

Sorry but I don't like the acyclic across the entire block.









But if there won't be one I could likely manage w/ it.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh we've seen SB and SB-E, but why would I show the SB/SB-E charts when the user I'm helping out has IB?


Oh I know that. I'm just replying the reply after that. I just noticed sakerfalcon has SB-E, so I reply with SB-E graph to show Koolance 380i is the best for SB-E.


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @lowfat: Say bye bye to fish block, here comes the submarine block - the EK-FC Titan SE:


does this have any performance improvements? Especially for cooling secondary components such as the mosfets?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> does this have any performance improvements? Especially for cooling secondary components such as the mosfets?


TBH doubtful. furthermore, i'd even argue that it goes the opposite way a little. (since it covers what could have been cooled by the mere clearance of it which is now covered with acrylic)


----------



## derickwm

Performance is exactly the same.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> hey guys, so i just got me a mcp35x that i want to try in my loop. ive never had a ddc pump before, and i know they're best used for high restricted loops, so im wondering if my current setup is enough or is it too much restriction. loop: 250mm res> mcp35x> monsta 240> ut60 280> 2 gpu blocks> vrm/mosfet block> ut60 420> cpu block> res. im thinking about adding a 140mm ut60 after the gpu and before the vrm block. so will the pump be efficient, or is it safer to get another and add more head pressure? also, do i need a heatsink for the mcp35x?


With those components you should be able to get away with using a single MCP35X. Being that there will be a fair amount of restriction in your loop you shouldn't need a heat sink for it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Might have some tomorrow.


I see a whole over top of where the stock LEDs plug in, don't suppose you guys will be selling LEDs that will be a perfect fit for your block and the stock connector? Because that would be bauce.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> True. Second part because it is made in China.


I hear the people that make the Raystorms don't even get to have lunch at Ljubljanski Dvor either. That kind of working condition is worthy of contacting the UN about.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I hear the people that make the Raystorms don't even get to have lunch at Ljubljanski Dvor either. That kind of working condition is worthy of contacting the UN about.


i fear that XSPC might not be the only ones. (most of the PC industry is at stake)

yeah over-exaggerated there but still.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> // ... but never very far away from the top - and pretty darn reasonable price-wise on top of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> True. Second part because it is made in China.
Click to expand...

Like nearly everything else in the world.
I dont see a problem.
Saying that,your rads are made in china are they not?


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnL*
> 
> How many pumps are you using? How's the temps?


LOL, did anyone ever guessed the loop order?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Like nearly everything else in the world.


Yeah, I don't see much of an issue with that. I suppose the best part of having them made in house is that corrections and changes can be done during the whole process. With cross-world shipping being what it is, having that kind of lead time to catch errors seems like it'd be very helpful.

I was more just trying to make a referential joke about a really good pizza place in Ljubljana.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Like nearly everything else in the world.
> I dont see a problem.
> Saying that,your rads are made in china are they not?


Well, I guess then you don't have a problem with jobs being outsourced to China as well, right?
About the rads - yes, but if it would be possible we would be making them here in Slovenia. We're still looking into it.


----------



## chino1974

Here's an update to my Phantom 820i build. I know I could've gone with thicker rads instead of more thinner ones. But I really like the cleaner look of having less tubing. I just wish I could get a set of full blocks for my 7970's. But these XSPC Raystorm universal gpu blocks work awesome.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Well, I guess then you don't have a problem with jobs being outsourced to China as well, right?
> About the rads - yes, but if it would be possible we would be making them here in Slovenia. We're still looking into it.


So you mock your competitors for making things in China even though EK does? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black...









Just because you only have some of your products made there doesnt make EK any different.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Just because you only have some of your products made there doesnt make EK any different.


Speaking literally, since they fabricate most of their own parts in house, that does make them different.

With that being said, here's some copper pipe porn:


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Speaking literally, since they fabricate most of their own parts in house, that does make them different.
> 
> With that being said, here's some copper pipe porn:


But they are still outsourcing jobs to China, the jab he took at their competitor for doing the same thing.


----------



## Michalius

It wasn't a jab, it was an explanation for the difference in prices between EK CPU blocks and the Raystorm.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> It wasn't a jab, it was an explanation for the difference in prices between EK CPU blocks and the Raystorm.


Really? That looks like a jab to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Well, I guess then you don't have a problem with jobs being outsourced to China as well, right?


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> So you mock your competitors for making things in China even though EK does? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just because you only have some of your products made there doesnt make EK any different.


I didn't mock any, I simply stated the reason for the good price/performance ratio behind a certain product. You are putting words in my mouth.

Also, the only thing made in China is our radiator.

Swiftech, Alphacool, Phobya, XSPC... All of them manufacture (all of) their stuff in China. Only four bigger manufacturers I know are not making their gear in China/Asia - Watercool, Aquacomputer, MIPS and EK Water Blocks. Hell even DangerDen's M6, their last CPU water block made before they closed the doors, was partially made in China. Koolance is - as you may know - built in South Korea.

I can tell you that back in the day OCZ Hydroflow water block cost less than 5USD to manufacture (complete product, incl. shipping). If it were made in Europe or USA the production costs would be 4-5 times higher. The situation is pretty similar today. Just something to think about.

No need to argue now,
N.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Like nearly everything else in the world.
> I dont see a problem.
> Saying that,your rads are made in china are they not?
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I guess then you don't have a problem with jobs being outsourced to China as well, right?
> About the rads - yes, but if it would be possible we would be making them here in Slovenia. We're still looking into it.
Click to expand...

I care greatly about manufacturing being moved 'outcountry',my father has been an engineer for 45yrs,I grew up around bridgeports and could setup wire eroders at 15,the decline of the UK's engineering/manufacturing has been very visible to me and its upsetting that talented guys are going overseas,you must of seen similar things in your industry too Niko.
However,we are partly to blame by pricing ourselves out of the market and not being competitive in the world market.
Germany doesn't seem to have the same issues,they still have their engineering and heavy industry,Japan are similar.

You guys are thinking of making rads in house? Good work,im looking forward to that!
My comment was more focused on the actual products that China produces,the days of substandard,generally crap offerings from there are over.


----------



## wermad

On topic:

Going to retire my Ceramique. Any suggestions for something better. Been out of touch w/ TIM progress


----------



## tiborrr12

We think alike, B Negative, we really do. It is really frustrating, we have a ton of qualified engineers and hard workers but lack the industry since we - like the rest of the Europe - sold the sucessful companies to the private owners who closed these down and outsourced pretty much everything to where the labor and manufacturing costs are the lowest. Turbocapitalism at it's worst.

@Michalius: Damn that's a nice bend. I'm going to be bending a lot of these tomorrow since I have to assemble a 2-stage phase change cascade cooled (-100°C). Can post some pics if anyone's interested.

@wermad: Gelid GC-Extreme for best peformance, Arctic Cooling MX-2 for price/performance.


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i knew it would be beautiful, but not that beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and i swear you got me with that motherboard mock up)
> could you provide a link to thread/site of coldzero? (or a gallery)
> what SSD's are those and what is the artwork itself? (it looks familiar but i can't remember from what)
> i think all blocks are good, and those differences in Water cooling are usually barely something to be worried about. it is more a choice of what look/style you wan't than pure performance. (which is why i'm surprised the raystorm does so well at it's price and simplicity)
> i wait for their angle fittings to arrive to retailers (e.g. PPCS) and for them to make a dual bay res that can house one OR two D5's. (not either or)
> 
> btw, i know i have asked this quite a bit but any thoughts on Primochill's CTR *Frosted* reservoir?


the artwork is alienware and the ssd's are corsair gt 120gb
And the link to cold zero http://www.coldzero.eu/


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On topic:
> 
> Going to retire my Ceramique. Any suggestions for something better. Been out of touch w/ TIM progress


PK-3 has been serving me nicely.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> PK-3 has been serving me nicely.


Same; I am using only Prolimatech in my new build... And the Gelid is a solid choice as well.

Thanks - T


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Flaming stops here please,Niko has explained himself and his comments,He is correct in what he is saying,sad as it may be.
Nearly all the WC gear you see comes from Chinese factories,Niko has not lied or tried to cover this up.

Don't drive away the reps,because Niko comes to this thread many things that have been said here get back to design team at EK and things get done,no one liked the CSQ,EK changed it and gave an option. Don't ruin it by flaming him


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With those components you should be able to get away with using a single MCP35X. Being that there will be a fair amount of restriction in your loop you shouldn't need a heat sink for it.


thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @wermad: Gelid GC-Extreme for best peformance, Arctic Cooling MX-2 for price/performance.


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> PK-3 has been serving me nicely.


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Same; I am using only Prolimatech in my new build... And the Gelid is a solid choice as well.
> 
> Thanks - T


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> thanks


I've ran my 35x through five blocks, three Monsta 480mm rads, and two reservoirs. Still chugging along quite nicely


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've ran my 35x through five blocks, three Monsta 480mm rads, and two reservoirs. Still chugging along quite nicely


whoa... that makes me feel a lot better. repped


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Is it bad that im still rolling MX2? I have GC extreme but I can't be arsed to remount for the sake of a couple of c when im already getting good temps.

I'm getting lazy in my old age......


----------



## DizZz

IC Diamond > everything for me. It has been the most consistent between mounts and has given me excellent temps. Definitely better than mx-2


----------



## Michalius

I know Phobya HeGrease performs really well regardless of mount. It topped the charts at Skineelabs. I used it for quite awhile, but Newegg sent me a 30% discount on all TIM. So I stocked up on PK-3, and it works great. Its nice and thick, so it spreads really evenly with one of those little tools.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @lowfat: Say bye bye to fish block, here comes the submarine block - the EK-FC Titan SE:


Big fan of that, looks great.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> @lowfat: Say bye bye to fish block, here comes the submarine block - the EK-FC Titan SE:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


will that be coming in csq as well?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've ran my 35x through five blocks, three Monsta 480mm rads, and two reservoirs. Still chugging along quite nicely


Yep - my 35X pushes through 2 GPU blocks, CPU block and 3 360 rads and if not PWM-adjusted (i.e. bleeding/leak testing) can shoot water out the top of the res from a bottom return-feed! I know this because I'm stupid.









I had really good results on the PK-1 - used it on my GPU blocks as well as CPU on first run... I've since switched to Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra on the CPU - but haven't rebuilt to see how much better it is. I can only make a direct comparison between AS5 and PK-1 - which was good on identical systems for about 2C each. Definitely not _laboratory_ results, and actually within the margin of error most likely. However, it does definitely 'settle' (cure) faster - temps were up 5-10C during loading for the first 2 days and then by the third had dropped to 2-3C below the best with AS5. If I remember correctly the AS5 took nearly 2 weeks to start showing really good temperatures.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Hopefully someone can answer this. I also PM'd Niko a minute ago so he should get back to me too.

I have my 780's installed with blocks and I'm receiving the Triple Parallel FC Terminal tomorrow. I know that this works with the Original CSQ style triple SLI block, but I' m not sure about the FC Terminal style SLI blocks because of the inlet/outlet placements-

Does it work upside down?? The reason I'm not sure is because if it's upside down then the horizontal inlet being used would be technically under the internal hole for the first gpu. I've attached a picture from Origin that I turned upside down and circled the area I'm talking about. I'm just wondering if anybody has done it/seen it done and if the pressure pushes the liquid up any way. If it does work then I have a pack of the extra EK emblems so I can take of the existing one and put a new one on so I doesn't look upside down (although the terminal lettering will be upside down).

Also I realize if it were a Serial block it would be a different story.

Thanks!


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Hopefully someone can answer this. I also PM'd Niko a minute ago so he should get back to me too.




And yeah, that should work fine.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Hopefully someone can answer this. I also PM'd Niko a minute ago so he should get back to me too.
> 
> I have my 780's installed with blocks and I'm receiving the Triple Parallel FC Terminal tomorrow. I know that this works with the Original CSQ style triple SLI block, but I' m not sure about the FC Terminal style SLI blocks because of the inlet/outlet placements-
> 
> Does it work upside down?? The reason I'm not sure is because if it's upside down then the horizontal inlet being used would be technically under the internal hole for the first gpu. I've attached a picture from Origin that I turned upside down and circled the area I'm talking about. I'm just wondering if anybody has done it/seen it done and if the pressure pushes the liquid up any way. If it does work then I have a pack of the extra EK emblems so I can take of the existing one and put a new one on so I doesn't look upside down (although the terminal lettering will be upside down).
> 
> Also I realize if it were a Serial block it would be a different story.
> 
> Thanks!


it should, the spacing is equidistant to each other. It worked w/ the 1st gen of bridges and this one is very similar (albeit w/ three screw holes vs 2).


----------



## SoloTwo

Getting there, fittings I need to mount the res will be here tomorrow.


----------



## samoth777

hey guys,

will i see an improvement in temps if i mount my EK supreme hf block 90 degrees? the flow will be from top to bottom instead of left to right. i'm using sandy bridge.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> hey guys,
> 
> will i see an improvement in temps if i mount my EK supreme hf block 90 degrees? the flow will be from top to bottom instead of left to right. i'm using sandy bridge.


Id say no







. You can orient your block which ever direction is best for your loop.

edit: just make sure you have the correct inlet and outlet ports connect properly.


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Id say no
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can orient your block which ever direction is best for your loop.
> 
> edit: just make sure you have the correct inlet and outlet ports connect properly.


i did see a chart somewhere though showing the ek supremacy and the koolance 380i having dramatic improvements if mounted at a 90 degree angle.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> i did see a chart somewhere though showing the ek supremacy and the koolance 380i having dramatic improvements if mounted at a 90 degree angle.


Never heard of this. Since the mounting bracket is not fixed in one direction, it can be positioned in any direction. Would like to see chart too


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Never heard of this. Since the mounting bracket is not fixed in one direction, it can be positioned in any direction. Would like to see chart too


here ya go!









oh i said 380i. i meant 380, no i.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> here ya go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh i said 380i. i meant 380, no i.


Stren's review was done w/ an lga2011. hmm....well, give it a try and let us know what happens







Though, its only a few degrees of difference. I wouldn't mind giving up or gaining a couple of degrees in order for me to plumb the cpu block properly. Let us know


----------



## samoth777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stren's review was done w/ an lga2011. hmm....well, give it a try and let us know what happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, its only a few degrees of difference. I wouldn't mind giving up or gaining a couple of degrees in order for me to plumb the cpu block properly. Let us know


ahh didn't realize it was on lga2011


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> will that be coming in csq as well?


Yes.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am interested in this 90 Degree as well I have the Aquacomputer Kryos with SB-E and if I can get better temps if I rotate the block do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am interested in this 90 Degree as well I have the Aquacomputer Kryos with SB-E and if I can get better temps if I rotate the block do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?


It doesnt matter as the block is only being turned 90.

I wonder if this only applies to the micro channel plates rather than the pin style plates?


----------



## PedroC1999

Guys, do you know the AlphaCool 7950 blocks, how good are they compared to others?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Guys, do you know the AlphaCool 7950 blocks, how good are they compared to others?


Get v2 as its got active vrm cooling


----------



## PedroC1999

I bought these ones, Ive already payed, but I can cancel if its worth it

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-NexXxos-ATXP-Full-Cover-Waterblock-for-Reference-Design-AMD-ATI-7970--7950-Graphics-Card--Black-Nickel-pid-16190.html


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Get v2 as its got active vrm cooling


Does that fit in rev 1 pcbs (wf3)


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> Does that fit in rev 1 pcbs (wf3)


Thats the thing see, I have a rev 1.0 PCB, AND i BOUGHT THE FIRST ONE THINKING THE v2 WS FOR v2 pcb'S


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Thats the thing see, I have a rev 1.0 PCB, AND i BOUGHT THE FIRST ONE THINKING THE v2 WS FOR v2 pcb'S


Well that sucks







, can't you send it back?


----------



## PedroC1999

Possibly, as it has not been shipped yet, im buying from SpecialTech. My dad is ringing them tonight, as they have taken a week to process, and didn't even ship it yet. Will there be much difference to justify another £18? Can't I just use ram sinks? as Im having a fan pointed at it anyway (Switch 810 HDD bay fan)


----------



## Pebruska

I think the they are covered in both (v2 and non-v2), but in v2 the water flows over the vrm, cooling it more efficiently.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am interested in this 90 Degree as well I have the Aquacomputer Kryos with SB-E and if I can get better temps if I rotate the block do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?


I read, it useful if the block use channels, for SB-E of course. (Quoting) How the CPU cores laid out on SB-E, it favours the channels line up vertically in a normal ATX casing. The Kryos use pins though. So, you shouldn't need to rotate the block. You don't need to too, because the in/out ports are lined up vertically anyway, if you mounted with the Kryos lettering at the bottom or upside down.


----------



## PedroC1999

What would you do, it just shipped out of the store, so 5mins to late, would it make a definite reason to RMA and ask for a new one, and another £18 from my pocket??


----------



## Pebruska

Go look at the stores return policy, usually it's so you can return it within 14 days as long as the product is not opened or atleast it's in the original package.


----------



## illuz

Ask the delivery courier to take it back but make sure it's okay with the company, ask them to send out the ver you want explaining you made a mistake. Done this before


----------



## derickwm

The start of something new...










Build Log


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Possibly, as it has not been shipped yet, im buying from SpecialTech. My dad is ringing them tonight, as they have taken a week to process, and didn't even ship it yet. Will there be much difference to justify another £18? Can't I just use ram sinks? as Im having a fan pointed at it anyway (Switch 810 HDD bay fan)


Im a Specialtech forum mod and talk to the guys daily,gimme your order number and i can chase it for you?

If the vacuum pack is unbroken,they *should* be able to take it back.,however its not an RMA as the product is not faulty,its just a purchase error by yourself


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I didn't mock any, I simply stated the reason for the good price/performance ratio behind a certain product. You are putting words in my mouth.
> 
> Also, the only thing made in China is our radiator.
> 
> Swiftech, Alphacool, Phobya, XSPC... All of them manufacture (all of) their stuff in China. Only four bigger manufacturers I know are not making their gear in China/Asia - Watercool, Aquacomputer, MIPS and EK Water Blocks. Hell even DangerDen's M6, their last CPU water block made before they closed the doors, was partially made in China. Koolance is - as you may know - built in South Korea.
> 
> I can tell you that back in the day OCZ Hydroflow water block cost less than 5USD to manufacture (complete product, incl. shipping). If it were made in Europe or USA the production costs would be 4-5 times higher. The situation is pretty similar today. Just something to think about.
> 
> No need to argue now,
> N.


Thats great and all but making things in europe vs china doesnt really mean much of a difference to me as a American. Not like you're making stuff over here


----------



## jericho2013

Here is my watercooled build. I had it posted over in the 900D thread but figured I should post it over here. The entire loop is constructed of Bitspower matte black fittings with the exception of the Bitspower crystal link between the graphics cards.

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0671_zpsb8832a56.jpg.html

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0673_zpsaff2c23d.jpg.html

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0674_zpsc69b6fb3.jpg.html

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0675_zpse5068935.jpg.html

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0676_zps88050575.jpg.html

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0677_zps3eb424aa.jpg.html

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0679_zps9785e785.jpg.html

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0683_zps603a4979.jpg.html

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0687_zpsa0bf3dbc.jpg.html

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0688_zps5e193c5f.jpg.html


----------



## Shultzy

Just wanted to post my little mod I did myself to the ek-fc titan nickel/plexi block I ordered for my gtx 780. I drilled some holes for 3mm leds into the acrylic and although I kind of messed up on my first hole it turned out pretty good. I don't have the block installed yet because I had to work but here are some pictures.





If you want more info you can look here where I have a few more details. http://www.overclock.net/t/1396025/ek-fc-titan-waterblock-led-mod-gtx-780#post_20080548


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The start of something new...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


Block looks real nice.


----------



## derickwm

Just need the card to come in for it!


----------



## _REAPER_

Well another day another 400 dollars towards my RR build lol


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jericho2013*
> 
> Here is my watercooled build. I had it posted over in the 900D thread but figured I should post it over here. The entire loop is constructed of Bitspower matte black fittings with the exception of the Bitspower crystal link between the graphics cards.


Good lord how much did you spend on RAM?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Good lord how much did you spend on RAM?


Im wondering about the fittings...


----------



## jericho2013

I bought the stuff over time and I haven't added it up. I bought a lot of extra fittings and that's 64 gb of ram. Total overkill I know. The rotary fittings are expensive but the extension fittings are probably less than half that.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Pure fittings... not sure envious or facepalm.

In other news, a lot of pipe.


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Im wondering about the fittings...


those look like 50mm extensions..$$$$


----------



## derickwm

I"m more curious about the two beastly Fan Controllers O.O I don't even see that many fans in the case.


----------



## rmcknight36

Well ran the water test. Had 2 leaks!! Both my fault







. But everything is good now. Temps are great except for the vrm temps(65c). Not insane but xspc could have done a better job with the block. All in all i am happy. Now time for some sleeving


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I"m more curious about the two beastly Fan Controllers O.O I don't even see that many fans in the case.


Those cases hold a shizzle ton of fans, if he has push pull i count 17


----------



## derickwm

True, but even then it's really quite silly to run only 1 fan per channel


----------



## Lovidore

Dem lightbars. I'm always ready to pull out the plastic and pay the extra bucks for that premium look.

Sigh, I'm a sucker for for sleek looking ram.


----------



## sakerfalcon

I see at least another 240 rad in the rear (picture 4), so at least 19 fans, maybe 21. Having each fan on its own channel is sort of pointless though.


----------



## Michalius

You guys and your sharp knees comments crack me up.

Nice build Jericho


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just need the card to come in for it!


Sticking it on a riser Derick?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> 
> Well ran the water test. Had 2 leaks!! Both my fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But everything is good now. Temps are great except for the vrm temps(65c). Not insane but xspc could have done a better job with the block. All in all i am happy. Now time for some sleeving


MOSFETS are good for around 110c,65c is not even breaking a sweat so dont worry about it.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The start of something new...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


every-time i see a build with a card mounted like that it feels like sorcery









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jericho2013*
> 
> Here is my watercooled build. I had it posted over in the 900D thread but figured I should post it over here. The entire loop is constructed of Bitspower matte black fittings with the exception of the Bitspower crystal link between the graphics cards.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0671_zpsb8832a56.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0673_zpsaff2c23d.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0674_zpsc69b6fb3.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0675_zpse5068935.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0676_zps88050575.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0677_zps3eb424aa.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0679_zps9785e785.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0687_zpsa0bf3dbc.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0688_zps5e193c5f.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/jericho20071/media/IMG_0683_zps603a4979.jpg.html


very nice build. i think that the ROG symbol on the front of the case is a great detail.
if only Corsair would have made their RAM lighting upgrade kits in at least red and with the RAM or made the LED an RGB one i would have snagged those ASAP.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> 
> Well ran the water test. Had 2 leaks!! Both my fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But everything is good now. Temps are great except for the vrm temps(65c). Not insane but xspc could have done a better job with the block. All in all i am happy. Now time for some sleeving


very nice, especially how well the red works overall in your build.
65C is quite good considering that most cards on air can reach 90C. heck, if you get some airflow on the block you should (in theory) be able to lower the temps.

XSPC and Alphacool (v1) both made gorgeous blocks with passive VRM cooling and it is so annoying. and the Alphacool v2 block only fits 7950 ref design cards.


----------



## derickwm

Yup, speaking of which I need to order one.


----------



## Valgaur

if I did push pull... oh man.... it would be.... 44 fans total


----------



## derickwm

Once I get back to Seattle and finish off my STH10 I think I'll have a flat 50 Cougar fans total


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*


That is soooooo nice looking. Just wow.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Once I get back to Seattle and finish off my STH10 I think I'll have a flat 50 Cougar fans total


I'm fairly certain I'll actually be able to feel that airflow here in Oly.


----------



## illuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> That is soooooo nice looking. Just wow.


This. That's so clean dude









I need a better job







.


----------



## MrStrat007

43'785 posts later and I am finally up to date on this thread.. Building my own custom loop in a few months and I have found this thread very helpful!

Trying to decide on copper tubing (painted/sleeved/anodized??) vs. actual tubing for my Corsair 900D. Thoughts?


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> 43'785 posts later and I am finally up to date on this thread.. Building my own custom loop in a few months and I have found this thread very helpful!
> 
> Trying to decide on copper tubing (painted/sleeved/anodized??) vs. actual tubing for my Corsair 900D. Thoughts?


I'd love to see sleeved hard tubing.


----------



## ginger_nuts

All can look good if done right









B Neg is the best copper / hard tube fella around these parts









*BUT* if done wrong they can all look like something my cat just done on my carpet


----------



## sate200




----------



## Seredin

I normally don't go for cluttered builds, but that looks awesomely industrial. Very, very well done on your water loop.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Holy crap many of you guys have some fresh gear! I can finally join the water cooler club! Yay for me!









Now if I can only get my hands on the Swiftech Komodo 7900 GPU block...









Enjoy my ladies and fellas!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I'd love to see sleeved hard tubing.


Not sure that would be possible. Even w/ tubing and compression fittings it can be difficult to get the end of sleeving in the compression. No way you'd be able to get the sleeving inside the ffittings for pipe.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jericho2013*
> 
> Here is my watercooled build. I had it posted over in the 900D thread but figured I should post it over here. The entire loop is constructed of Bitspower matte black fittings with the exception of the Bitspower crystal link between the graphics cards.


awesome system! if i was gonna start a new build tomarrow, it would be very very similar. except I would go broke on the fittings


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not sure that would be possible. Even w/ tubing and compression fittings it can be difficult to get the end of sleeving in the compression. No way you'd be able to get the sleeving inside the ffittings for pipe.


Once I get the funds I will try it on a few fittings and pieces of pipe. If it works and looks good I will post the results.

Edit: if I can't get it to fit into the fittings I might be able to get it lined up with the edge and glue it down. I will update when I get some parts to play with.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Holy crap many of you guys have some fresh gear! I can finally join the water cooler club! Yay for me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I can only get my hands on the Swiftech Komodo 7900 GPU block...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy my ladies and fellas!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How loud is the Apogee Drive II? Like can you hear it above your gpu fans?


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> How loud is the Apogee Drive II? Like can you hear it above your gpu fans?


Not really... My Push/pull Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP29's running at 3000rpm are louder, and when I have my GPU fans at 75% (Whatever the hell that rpm range is...) you can barely hear it...

To be honest sound is subjective, even when my gear is on, it's not as loud as my music, games, and even in room AC so its pretty quiet in comparison...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well ran the water test. Had 2 leaks!! Both my fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But everything is good now. Temps are great except for the vrm temps(65c). Not insane but xspc could have done a better job with the block. All in all i am happy. Now time for some sleeving


Looks great...and bonus points for a fellow Charlestonian.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> That is soooooo nice looking. Just wow.


Wow that was posted forever ago....but thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Holy crap many of you guys have some fresh gear! I can finally join the water cooler club! Yay for me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I can only get my hands on the Swiftech Komodo 7900 GPU block...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy my ladies and fellas!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love how small and clean that is. Really good work.


----------



## kingchris

Question
Im using primoflex clear 1/2 id 3/4 od, using demineralised water and primochill liquid utopia, and i got this.



WHAT THE...

its a blue sediment.

any ideas please.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Question
> Im using primoflex clear 1/2 id 3/4 od, using demineralised water and primochill liquid utopia, and i got this.
> 
> WHAT THE...
> 
> its a blue sediment.
> 
> any ideas please.


Plasticizer. See the tubing or plasticizer threads for more details.


----------



## kingchris

thanks, looks like im getting new tubing or change the set up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> thanks, looks like im getting new tubing or change the set up.


Get Advance LRT mate







It supposed to be the one that prevents plasticizing









Wondering if this can hold my Monsta 480mm (w/ push/pull)


















I need a bit more access, its tight behind my XB. I can still connect things but I would like a bit more clearance. Other then that, maybe gut a 38mm fan and use that as an extender (like what I'm using now w/ a 25mm thick fan).


----------



## kingchris

err you have seen the size of the case your using...lol...


----------



## R3apR369

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> thanks, looks like im getting new tubing or change the set up.


As Wermad said, get the Advanced LRT version of the Primochill tubing. I'm not sure if your using a tube reservoir, but if you are, add the Monsoon .999 Silver Bullet to it.







It can replace a reservoir plug fitting, and you'll never know it's there. This is for a distilled water setup btw.

This is the setup I use, and I've had no issues whatsoever.







The Monsoon .999 Silver Bullet definitely does it's job.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> err you have seen the size of the case your using...lol...


With the two tians on water and all the other components, it was heavy enough to contra the weight of the heavy rear hanging Monsta 480. I'm relinquishing my Titans and might pick up a new gpu setup that might end up being heavier







.

The Koolance bracket looks appealing since it can extend out a bit. I would just need for it to extend out briefly and then retract. But its pricey. Might just pick up some rad brackets from Xspc.


----------



## PCModderMike

The Koolance bracket is a very solid piece and would hold your Monsta with ease. I used one on my old 600T in my sig.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The Koolance bracket is a very solid piece and would hold your Monsta with ease. I used one on my old 600T in my sig.


Thanks Mike







. Just a bit hesitant since its ~$50.I'll see how much money I have left after my gpu change.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I normally don't go for cluttered builds, but that looks awesomely industrial. Very, very well done on your water loop.


I don't think you can really call that 'cluttered'... it's definitely packed to capacity - but everything is placed very deliberately and orderly.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I don't think you can really call that 'cluttered'... it's definitely packed to capacity - but everything is placed very deliberately and orderly.


"busy" may have been more appropriate but damn it looks good


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just a bit hesitant since its ~$50.I'll see how much money I have left after my gpu change.


No problem







So another change coming up, care to share what's in store?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> "busy" may have been more appropriate but damn it looks good


This

Going a little







here....but we currently have "lowfat" and "fatfree" viewing the thread, wonder if they're related


----------



## wermad

^^^









Not sure yet but my last Titan is up for sale (pending).


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure yet but my last Titan is up for sale (pending).












So now you're just recycling hardware in the same month you receive it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now you're just recycling hardware in the same month you receive it?


Just one of those guys who can't pass up deals


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks great...and bonus points for a fellow Charlestonian.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow that was posted forever ago....but thanks!
> Love how small and clean that is. Really good work.


Thanks PCModderMike! It's my first water cooled build, I'm really looking forward to my next challenge with the Silverstone SG05: Build Log here


----------



## kingchris

thanks for all the help guys, have placed orders, have ordered, tube and plexi pipe, will see how it looks when it gets here.


----------



## SoloTwo

Quick question, normally how loud are D5 pumps? I'm leak testing with my PWM 655 right now without pwm connection so I believe its running around 60% power. Its not exactly loud but is humming a bit. Also not sure if this is normal being my first loop and everything, but if you hold the pump its got a really high frequency vibration, which might be what's causing the humming.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> Quick question, normally how loud are D5 pumps? I'm leak testing with my PWM 655 right now without pwm connection so I believe its running around 60% power. Its not exactly loud but is humming a bit. Also not sure if this is normal being my first loop and everything, but if you hold the pump its got a really high frequency vibration, which might be what's causing the humming.


If you are not running the PWM function then its running 100%,not 60%


----------



## SoloTwo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you are not running the PWM function then its running 100%,not 60%


Martin said in his review that it runs at around 60% when the PWM cable is not in use.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/3/


----------



## fatfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Going a little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here....but we currently have "lowfat" and "fatfree" viewing the thread, wonder if they're related


Yeah, we are. Sadly *nonGMO* and *SuitableForVegans* brothers couldn't be with us today.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you are not running the PWM function then its running 100%,not 60%
> 
> 
> 
> Martin said in his review that it runs at around 60% when the PWM cable is not in use.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/3/
Click to expand...

I wouldnt of thought that,excellent find and thanks for sharing.


----------



## SeekerZA

[email protected] PCModderMike!!









@wermad 

Still going to add fans on the other side. Feels STABLE and is most definitely of great quality.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not sure that would be possible. Even w/ tubing and compression fittings it can be difficult to get the end of sleeving in the compression. No way you'd be able to get the sleeving inside the ffittings for pipe.


see now, i think anything be done


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Floating rad mounts....


----------



## Mycelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> PK-3 has been serving me nicely.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> IC Diamond > everything for me. It has been the most consistent between mounts and has given me excellent temps. Definitely better than mx-2


Yes, I use GC Gelid-Extreme. That, along with IC-Diamond and Prolimatech PK-3 are all great TIMs








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Good lord how much did you spend on RAM?


How're you liking the LED kits btw? I was thinking I'd get the LED kits for the Platinums as well, are you satisfied with the way they look? Not too subtle, not too bright?


----------



## Gleniu

Water-cooled bench I've put together in less than 24hours (some dremel and painting included)








See my sig for the build log.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Floating rad mounts....


more like floating awesomeness







(nice rendering)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Water-cooled bench I've put together in less than 24hours (some dremel and painting included)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See my sig for the build log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i love how you went :"screw the case, i'll just use it as a bench and make it look great while at it".
really nice to look at.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Floating rad mounts....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that just piece of bent metal at the top that allows the fan screws to be mounted through it? From the pictures I've seen of the design so far it looks very promising. Keep up the good work.


----------



## BiaBia

Not completed yet but back up and running. I'll make a build log when I finish with the cable sleeving


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Water-cooled bench I've put together in less than 24hours (some dremel and painting included)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See my sig for the build log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was thinking of doing something similar with my 2 RX120 rads. Looks good.


----------



## nagle3092

Spoiler: My Commie blocks












Spoiler: Test fit












Spoiler: In business















Spoiler: Win!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Floating rad mounts....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that just piece of bent metal at the top that allows the fan screws to be mounted through it? From the pictures I've seen of the design so far it looks very promising. Keep up the good work.
Click to expand...

Its not bent,its 5mm Alu plate with 5 m3 threads in the top edge,it bolts directly to the 5mm Midplate. If the finished mounts flex with a full rad fitted then i will create 20mm legs to mate with the bottom of the base then bolt thru there too,it wont flex at all then.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Floating rad mounts....


hope its cooming out i matx realy soon

maybe buy it ^^


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering, All the independent testing of water blocks, show testing done on an Intel chip.

Do these test results still hold true for us on the other side? (AMD)

If NOT, does anyone know of an AMD water block test?


----------



## PedroC1999

Is leak testing over night a good idea? if not, how long do you suggest?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Is leak testing over night a good idea? if not, how long do you suggest?


I personally only leak test for a few hours, 3-4hrs, then let it sit for a few, still checking.

I had a leaky seal once, which only leaked whilst it was turned off.


----------



## PedroC1999

What do you think of everything unplugged, and PSU out of case when leak testing?? I just want a slkess of a risk as possible when testing


----------



## nleksan

It depends, because if you have to undo any of the loop to put the components back in, then you'll have to leak test again.

It's not a bad idea to leak test the water cooling components by setting up a "faux loop" outside of the case to ensure that the rad(s)/block(s)/pump(s) aren't a problem, but when it comes to fittings/tubing, you kinda need to do it with everything in place (and turned off/unplugged) in order to be sure...

Just unplug any power cables, put a few layers of paper towel over everything (so you can see if it's leaking, not just to protect the components), and use a SEPARATE power supply for the pump(s)....


----------



## Kenjiwing

Is there a 3.5 FC that can handle 4 san ace fans on a single connector or am I pretty much stuck with getting a aquaero 5 LT?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What do you think of everything unplugged, and PSU out of case when leak testing?? I just want a slkess of a risk as possible when testing


Should be fine then







Just set it up that in the mostly horrid situation, if something was to let go.

Where would the coolant go? If the PSU is away from it, then all should be sweet dreams









But if your anything like me, I find it hard to sleep when ever I just do a stability test overnight.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> 
> Well ran the water test. Had 2 leaks!! Both my fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But everything is good now. Temps are great except for the vrm temps(65c). Not insane but xspc could have done a better job with the block. All in all i am happy. Now time for some sleeving


really nice setup , short loop and very clean

prety similar to this one

same thing on VRM temp, all around 60c

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/IMG_0004_zpsb1d96395.jpg.html


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Is leak testing over night a good idea? if not, how long do you suggest?


Leak test for as long as you can monitor it.







If you are going to be home all day and can check on the system all the time....do it as long as you can.







I would not recommend overnight while sleeping.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Here are a couple of my rigs.










and the 800D


----------



## mattcube64

So how much did I screw up?

I have an Asus Rampage IV Formula and an i7 3820. Picked up the EK Supremacy waterblock. I changed the jet plate for the 2011 socket but other than that... didn't do anything. It had instructions for installing the backplate for every socket BUT 2011. And even though it said to cut something off for the rubber gasket - it never said *** to do with it. So basically I just changed the Jet Plate, put it back together, applied a bit of paste, and screwed it down.

Is that it? Or do I need to try again?

Here's what things look like:





... First timer, if you can't tell... ;p


----------



## fnyk

zooty cat and mattcube64 yoy two guys are a little mad do you know that ^^


----------



## CarbonDrift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> So how much did I screw up?
> 
> I have an Asus Rampage IV Formula and an i7 3820. Picked up the EK Supremacy waterblock. I changed the jet plate for the 2011 socket but other than that... didn't do anything. It had instructions for installing the backplate for every socket BUT 2011. And even though it said to cut something off for the rubber gasket - it never said *** to do with it. So basically I just changed the Jet Plate, put it back together, applied a bit of paste, and screwed it down.
> 
> Is that it? Or do I need to try again?
> 
> Here's what things look like:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... First timer, if you can't tell... ;p


If i remember correctly the EK block uses the stock lga 2011 backplate. So as long as you used the right screws you got it right.


----------



## SoloTwo

First loop completed. Not exactly as I had it drawn out but it will do until I redo the loop to watercool my Titans.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> 
> 
> First loop completed. Not exactly as I had it drawn out but it will do until I redo the loop to watercool my Titans.


Looks pretty smexy to me.


----------



## mataribot

Wbvc. C x x zx. Xx. Cbcf

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## wermad

$15 worth of hardware:



Needs a little paint and a bit of trimming to clear the top panel.


----------



## kingchris




----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> Leak test for as long as you can monitor it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are going to be home all day and can check on the system all the time....do it as long as you can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not recommend overnight while sleeping.


I was sleeping when leak test.







It was 4 am when I completed the loop. I only stayed up for 30min - 1h to watch if there is any leak then just go to sleep. But, yeah, I also recommend always monitor it when leak test, unless you're pretty confident.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> So how much did I screw up?
> 
> I have an Asus Rampage IV Formula and an i7 3820. Picked up the EK Supremacy waterblock. I changed the jet plate for the 2011 socket but other than that... didn't do anything. It had instructions for installing the backplate for every socket BUT 2011. And even though it said to cut something off for the rubber gasket - it never said *** to do with it. So basically I just changed the Jet Plate, put it back together, applied a bit of paste, and screwed it down.
> 
> Is that it? Or do I need to try again?
> 
> Here's what things look like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... First timer, if you can't tell... ;p


Installing water block on 2011 socket pretty straight forward. No backplate needed. I think you done it right.


----------



## PedroC1999

What do you think of about 2hours leak test, is that enough?


----------



## wermad

Stren's cpu block review shows the Supremacy having slight temperature variances depending on the orientation of block. His test was done on LGA 2011 btw.

Stayed up this night a bit but mostly to relax after fiddling with the radiator mounting. I've pulled late nighters before (wife not too pleased). Seems like at this hour, no one is bugging you. And there's some members (usually night owls or on the other side of the planet) who will be active here. Not much for me to do at the moment since I'm going through a change up (again







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What do you think of about 2hours leak test, is that enough?


If you don't see a leak right away, after an hour, your good. IF you like to run longer that's fine. Though, jump start your psu only and power on only the pump imho. If there's a leak, at least the main components won't be affected if one were to happen (heaven forbid







).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Hullo Mrs Water,are the twins home?


----------



## ToothBear

that look sweet, i rarely see good non- steampunk copper builds







the part seen to the most rigth with the two holes, what is it? a pump?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> that look sweet, i rarely see good non- steampunk copper builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the part seen to the most rigth with the two holes, what is it? a pump?


Yeah,EK dual loop d5 top


----------



## kingchris

or just buy a seperate power unit, mine does molex and sata, make life so much better, and easier to control


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hullo Mrs Water,are the twins home?


Holy molly, makes me want to go to a white/black/copper build my self. A plus brother.


----------



## shapin

b NEGATIVE, TOUR BUILD IS AWESOME!!!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hullo Mrs Water,are the twins home?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Copper awesomeness


B Neg, every time it is like: "you had a bad day? Here's B Neg's amazing loop #345 that will make you happy"









Every fricking time







(btw, i guess black tubing right?)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hullo Mrs Water,are the twins home?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Coming together very nicely


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> So how much did I screw up?
> 
> I have an Asus Rampage IV Formula and an i7 3820. Picked up the EK Supremacy waterblock. I changed the jet plate for the 2011 socket but other than that... didn't do anything. It had instructions for installing the backplate for every socket BUT 2011. And even though it said to cut something off for the rubber gasket - it never said *** to do with it. So basically I just changed the Jet Plate, put it back together, applied a bit of paste, and screwed it down.
> 
> Is that it? Or do I need to try again?
> 
> ... First timer, if you can't tell... ;p


You want the J3 or J4 jet plate and 2011 uses no back plate. ASUS boards have a built in mounting plate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Is leak testing over night a good idea? if not, how long do you suggest?


If it doesn't leak after 3-4 hours I think that's enough but I'd do it while you're able to monitor it. I do a first quick leak test with the pump on but the computer off (10-20min) and then under load while the loop is nice and warm for a few hours.

Only leaks I've ever had we're from fittings on radiators. Between the fitting and the radiator not between the tubing and the fitting and they took a few hours to develop but were never bad enough to actually drip a drop.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Coming together very nicely


DAMN man good work


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> DAMN man good work










That was BNEG's build I was quoting.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hullo Mrs Water,are the twins home?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Copper awesomeness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B Neg, every time it is like: "you had a bad day? Here's B Neg's amazing loop #345 that will make you happy"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every fricking time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (btw, i guess black tubing right?)
Click to expand...

Given it's B-Neg, I think hard copper tubing would be a better guess


----------



## PedroC1999

Probably a even better guess is coloured acrylic tubing


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was BNEG's build I was quoting.


Same here.. just quoting your quote


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Same here.. just quoting your quote


OK. But why? Appears as though you were complimenting me as if it was my build. If you wanted to tell BNEG, "damn man good work", it would have been more appropriate to quote his post.


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> really nice setup , short loop and very clean
> 
> prety similar to this one
> 
> same thing on VRM temp, all around 60c
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/IMG_0004_zpsb1d96395.jpg.html


Well yea it looks like yours! Who wouldn't take ideas from that gorgeous build


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> OK. But why? Appears as though you were complimenting me as if it was my build. If you wanted to tell BNEG, "damn man good work", it would have been more appropriate to quote his post.


It has been a long day and the temps here are over 120F.. I wish I had







today


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> It has been a long day and the temps here are over 120F.. I wish I had
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> today


Shew sounds intense. Well stay out there, I'll be visiting family in the Philippines end of this year...hope it's not so hot then.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Shew sounds intense. Well stay out there, I'll be visiting family in the Philippines end of this year...hope it's not so hot then.


I will be deployed in the Philippines by December where will you be going?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I will be deployed in the Philippines by December where will you be going?


One week in Quezon City and then one week in Boracay.

Sorry for the OT folks...to keep on track. Thinking of doing a rebuild of my SM5 soon....while it's torn down probably going to paint my rads like I did in my Switch. UV light makes that rad look purple? Haha


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hullo Mrs Water,are the twins home?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Copper awesomeness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B Neg, every time it is like: "you had a bad day? Here's B Neg's amazing loop #345 that will make you happy"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every fricking time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (btw, i guess black tubing right?)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Given it's B-Neg, I think *hard copper tubing* would be a better guess
Click to expand...











Damn,you know me too well.......


----------



## phillyd

NZXT Released the *H230*, looks pretty cool.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Looks cheap and nasty to me......

No WC support and no design flair.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks cheap and nasty to me......
> 
> No WC support and no design flair.


I agree, it looks quite crampt and the drive cages take up a lot of space as well.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks cheap and nasty to me......
> 
> No WC support and no design flair.


This


----------



## NewHighScore

Yeah I'm not a fan of their H series at all. I still do love the look of the Switch 810 though but it's massive size I'm getting tired of. Going to pick up a smaller case today and parting out my loop and going to an AIO cooler.









DOn't flame me.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks cheap and nasty to me......
> 
> No WC support and no design flair.


I'm bored with building in predesigned cases. Once the NZXT project is done, I'm starting a NEW project that doesn't involve a computer case, or bench. I will start a new thread and post a few pics here so that I don't clutter up b Neg's thread with my foolishness


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks cheap and nasty to me......
> 
> No WC support and no design flair.
> 
> 
> 
> *I'm bored with building in predesigned cases.* Once the NZXT project is done, I'm starting a NEW project that doesn't involve a computer case, or bench. I will start a new thread and post a few pics here so that I don't clutter up b Neg's thread with my foolishness
Click to expand...

Me too....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1394697/scratch-build-prot07ype-ocn-exclusive-log/0_20


----------



## Gleniu

A night view of my quickly-made bench


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I'm bored with building in predesigned cases. Once the NZXT project is done, I'm starting a NEW project that doesn't involve a computer case, or bench. I will start a new thread and post a few pics here so that I don't clutter up b Neg's thread with my foolishness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me too....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1394697/scratch-build-prot07ype-ocn-exclusive-log/0_20
Click to expand...

I third that.
Actually it's just that there are no cases that fit this kind of config, but whatevz.
There's a club for this...


----------



## lowfat

2P bench server WIP
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-8-1.jpg.html


----------



## Seredin

I will watercool a dual CPU server one day. Maybe when I'm older..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 2P bench server WIP
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-8-1.jpg.html


Welcome to 2CPU greatness!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Welcome to 2CPU greatness!


This is like my 5th attempt @ 2P. I use to have two SR2s for [email protected] a few years back. The other 2 newer actually made it in to fruition.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 2P bench server WIP
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-8-1.jpg.html


Your photography is always top notch! What camera/lens do you use?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Your photography is always top notch! What camera/lens do you use?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


T3i + 17-40 L f/4.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> T3i + 17-40 L f/4.


Thanks! +rep!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> T3i + 17-40 L f/4.


Love that camera, wish I had one.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Anyone here have any ideas on what water cooling accessories I should buy? I have around $30. So far I've thought of a drain & fill port, temperature sensor, or a flow indicator. Just anything to make my life easier when I redo my loop in my new build


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Anyone here have any ideas on what water cooling accessories I should buy? I have around $30. So far I've thought of a drain & fill port, temperature sensor, or a flow indicator. Just anything to make my life easier when I redo my loop in my new build


Maybe a kill coil/fitting? Other than that you thought of all the main stuff.


----------



## mattcube64

Got the Titan waterblock and backplate installed. Very sexy!



Gonna order a heat gun tonight and test my acrylic bending kung-fu later this week.


----------



## OverSightX

Done moving mine into the new case. Same components for now but a different look.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Maybe a kill coil/fitting? Other than that you thought of all the main stuff.


Already have a kill coil. Thanks for the suggestion though


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Anyone here have any ideas on what water cooling accessories I should buy? I have around $30. So far I've thought of a drain & fill port, temperature sensor, or a flow indicator. Just anything to make my life easier when I redo my loop in my new build


Honestly, I'd make sure I had the best fans I could be using. Possibly a fan controller too. Those are sometimes in that price range. Other than that, it looks like you could use some sleeving if your log's first post is up to date. I wouldn't hit up accessories til I had the basics covered, ya know?
(my idea of basics might be way off from yours though







)


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> Got the Titan waterblock and backplate installed. Very sexy!
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna order a heat gun tonight and test my acrylic bending kung-fu later this week.


interesting motherboard layout, ive never seen that before.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Isn't that just the Rampage IV Formula?


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Honestly, I'd make sure I had the best fans I could be using. Possibly a fan controller too. Those are sometimes in that price range. Other than that, it looks like you could use some sleeving if your log's first post is up to date. I wouldn't hit up accessories til I had the basics covered, ya know?
> (my idea of basics might be way off from yours though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I've got some Noctuas, so I'm good on the fans. But the fan controller caught my attention. I have one on my Phantom, but I just realized I won't on my 800D. Do you have any recommendations? I like the ones with screens, but they don't necessarily have to be touchscreen. And for sleeving, I am using extensions for now. I really want to sleeve my PSU, but I'd rather wait and do that when I have a fully modular one.


----------



## cafu02

So it was busy this weekend and here is the reason why








Corsair 800D

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cafu09/media/My Rig/087.jpg.html[/URL]

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cafu09/media/My Rig/080.jpg.html

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cafu09/media/My Rig/064.jpg.html

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cafu09/media/My Rig/063.jpg.html

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cafu09/media/My Rig/065.jpg.html

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cafu09/media/My Rig/079.jpg.html

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cafu09/media/My Rig/084.jpg.html


----------



## Jameswalt1

Nice job, really clean!


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> I've got some Noctuas, so I'm good on the fans. But the fan controller caught my attention. I have one on my Phantom, but I just realized I won't on my 800D. Do you have any recommendations? I like the ones with screens, but they don't necessarily have to be touchscreen. And for sleeving, I am using extensions for now. I really want to sleeve my PSU, but I'd rather wait and do that when I have a fully modular one.


I personally prefer physical sliders to the screens. Besides, finding one with a screen might be tough for $30. In fact, I only found 2 on FCU for around 30 that had screens.
Logysis
Lian Li
but they're both in silver and one is 3.5" and neither have reviews. Hm.


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Isn't that just the Rampage IV Formula?


probably







ive been out of the pc game for years, ive never seen one with the ram on both sides of the cpu socket


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> probably
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ive been out of the pc game for years, ive never seen one with the ram on both sides of the cpu socket


LGA2011. All of the boards are this way.


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> LGA2011. All of the boards are this way.


lol when i stopped building pc's i was on LGA775, so i never even had an opportunity to play with LGA2011, it was just coming into existence when I got out of it.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> One week in Quezon City and then one week in Boracay.
> 
> Sorry for the OT folks...to keep on track. Thinking of doing a rebuild of my SM5 soon....while it's torn down probably going to paint my rads like I did in my Switch. UV light makes that rad look *awesome*? Haha


FTFY


----------



## Juthos

Almost done:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/dsc04013b.jpg/


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Almost done:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/dsc04013b.jpg/


Looks like a minature candy factory, neat! XD


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Almost done:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/dsc04013b.jpg/


I have spent the last 5 minutes trying to follow the routes.

Very nice!


----------



## OkanG

Too lazy for better pictures, but yeah. You get the idea!


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deornoth*
> 
> Looks like a minature candy *factory*, neat! XD


I prefer a candy shop:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRcnnId15BA








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> I have spent the last 5 minutes trying to follow the routes.
> 
> Very nice!


It's gonna be easier when i'll fill the 3 loops with colored coolants


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 2P bench server WIP
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/tecnofront/export-8-1.jpg.html


Do want!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> FTFY


----------



## PedroC1999

Just waiting on the case now


----------



## PCModderMike

Lots of goodies...looking good.


----------



## PedroC1999

Join my build log for all the pictures, And the case should be here tomorrow or day after, Mega excited!


----------



## PCModderMike

Oh yea you won one of the ultimate dream rigs...going to check it out right meOw!


----------



## crazymofo

How long does ekwb take to process an order? I ordered & paid already on the 30th, the status is still "processing". Gonna be more than 3days soon









Is this normal?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazymofo*
> 
> How long does ekwb take to process an order? I ordered & paid already on the 30th, the status is still "processing". Gonna be more than 3days soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this normal?


2 of those days were the weekend though. Most businesses like that don't work weekends. My guess is that they will probably get it packed and ready for shipping today and ship either today or tomorrow


----------



## crazymofo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> 2 of those days were the weekend though. Most businesses like that don't work weekends. My guess is that they will probably get it packed and ready for shipping today and ship either today or tomorrow


30th is thursday & 31st is friday







Today is monday, but I guess I will 1-2days more otherwise will drop them an email.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> A night view of my quickly-made bench
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it. Makes me miss my old set up with UV cathodes.


----------



## PCModderMike

Same....that's why I posted that pic of my old rad with the Gelids...that UV blue...


----------



## Raid-The-Roach

Hey guys,

I've been lurking around the thread a bit until I felt comfortable showing off my rig









Let me know what you guys think, especially if you guys have any suggestions or ideas. I'm thinking about modding my case to fit a 360 Rad at the bottom... I'm not quite sure yet, I'm quite happy with my temps at the moment. I apologize beforehand for the crappy iPhone pics...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Almost done:
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/dsc04013b.jpg/


i dont know why but when i see that pc then the cocacola loge pop up in my head

but dont get me wrong it is a awesome build


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Almost done:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/dsc04013b.jpg/


Damn nice built


----------



## joostflux

^^Looks superb. But am I the only one that is bugged by the crooked res? Everything is just so angular and straight. The crooked res just seems out of place in a build that nice. But seriously though, it really does look amazing. Nice job!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Almost done:
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/dsc04013b.jpg/


----------



## PCModderMike

^^


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> ^^Looks superb. But am I the only one that is bugged by the crooked res? Everything is just so angular and straight. The crooked res just seems out of place in a build that nice. But seriously though, it really does look amazing. Nice job!


He said "almost done"


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> He said "almost done"


As we have come to realize though every build is "almost done". There is no such thing as a completely finished build because there's always the chance that something will be added to it or changed out.


----------



## Raid-The-Roach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As we have come to realize though every build is "almost done". There is no such thing as a completely finished build because there's always the chance that something will be added to it or changed out.


"You are never finished building your computer, you just run out of money."


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raid-The-Roach*
> 
> "You are never finished building your computer, you just run out of money."


Exactly!


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As we have come to realize though every build is "almost done". There is no such thing as a completely finished build because there's always the chance that something will be added to it or changed out.


I kept telling myself this wasn't true. $2000 later...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> He said "almost done"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As we have come to realize though every build is "almost done". There is no such thing as a completely finished build because there's always the chance that something will be added to it or changed out.
Click to expand...

My SR2 is a bit like that....bloody thing is a money pit.....and then I get it to render stuff and I remember why I love it like I do.


----------



## NewHighScore

Can anyone tell me how to properly dispose of my old mayhems pastel coolant? Is it safe to just dump it down the drain?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how to properly dispose of my old mayhems pastel coolant? Is it safe to just dump it down the drain?


your not "supposed" to pour down drain. Here in canada, most hardware stores have a place to drop off old oil and paint. Things like that. I just put it in some bottle and bring it there.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> your not "supposed" to pour down drain. Here in canada, most hardware stores have a place to drop off old oil and paint. Things like that. I just put it in some bottle and bring it there.


Excellent. Thanks for the swift reply. I didn't think it should go down the drain.







I am in Canada also and there is a Home Depot just 2 minutes away from my house. Will take it there this evening. Cheers!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raid-The-Roach*
> 
> "You are never finished building your computer, you just run out of money."


This is the exact reason why my build log is set up to never end.


----------



## Muskaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> I kept telling myself this wasn't true. $2000 later...


I think I'm well north of $5k on my new one, and my old one was quite close to $3k. I just had to order some more screws for my XSPC radiators, since there was only enough for one side in push/pull. Oh, and I was short four Corsair SP120mm fans, too.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Almost done:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm pretty sure I've seen this before on this thread a couple months ago. Looks even better!

Mirrors Edge anyone?


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I've seen this before on this thread a couple months ago. Looks even better!
> 
> Mirrors Edge anyone?


Now that you mention it...!


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muskaos*
> 
> I think I'm well north of $5k on my new one, and my old one was quite close to $3k. I just had to order some more screws for my XSPC radiators, since there was only enough for one side in push/pull. Oh, and I was short four Corsair SP120mm fans, too.


Haha yeah I always end up "forgeting" one thing, which gives me the urge to buy like 10 more things.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Haha yeah I always end up "forgeting" one thing, which gives me the urge to buy like 10 more things.


That always gets you. I was short one compression fitting for my build and "couldn't" wait to get it up and running. That 45 degree bitspower rotary ended up being $37...


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> That always gets you. I was short one compression fitting for my build and "couldn't" wait to get it up and running. That 45 degree bitspower rotary ended up being $37...


That literally just happened to me. I went to buy an extension because I couldn't fit a certain fitting. Ending buying the extension, some thermal paste, some rotaries, a GPU backplate, and a fan. I have the biggest love-hate relationship with this hobby. I think I have a problem


----------



## TSXmike

Almost ready!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> Almost ready!


Is that a Fractal Arc mini?


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> Almost ready!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Someone who knows how to route a loop.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Is that a Fractal Arc mini?


Yes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Someone who knows how to route a loop.


Thanks


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I've seen this before on this thread a couple months ago. Looks even better!
> 
> Mirrors Edge anyone?


That's actually why I liked this build so much. Reminds me a ton of the whole white modern + very slight color accent look of Mirror's Edge's environment.
But yeah, I see the resemblance on Juthos's build too.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


First one









Jeffinslaw


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.


personally I would go with the 1 piece.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.


i like the left setup better, the bridge looks so plain.. just my


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.


Bridges are IMO rather ugly. First one looks 11ty better.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.


Definitely the one on the left. IMO the one piece looks too clunky


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.


sent you a pm on the spacing. Both look great. hard to decide. I'm on the same boat XD


----------



## skyn3t

-=]░▒▓███ Black HawK Down re-build ███▓▒░[=-

sneak peak

Day 1 - Taking down my Hawk.


Day 2 - Cutting some parts.


Day 3 - Removing the MDPC heatshrink


Day 3 - working on my sleeving heat shrink less


Day 4 - work on the fan controller bay.


more to come i may do a log for it.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> First one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I agree with this!


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.


Definitely first one


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: RoboCop


Neither. Crystal Link all the way. Left side looks like Koolance, right side looks like a....bridge.


----------



## theseopenfields

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Installing three 780's tomorrow and I'd like a couple of opinions on the two bridge options in the attached crude phone-taken photo, I can't decide.


I like the first one more, the only EK bridges I really like are the transparent ones.


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Definitely first one


Yeah, the 1st one looks better.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I've seen this before on this thread a couple months ago. Looks even better!
> 
> Mirrors Edge anyone?


It was mine, but after that i changed motherboard, vgas, the back of the case.....
In my signature there's the link to my worklog


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Neither. Crystal Link all the way. Left side looks like Koolance, right side looks like a....bridge.


Crystal link 100%


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Get D-Plugs rather than those ugly adjustable vid connectors.

Blocks are bulky and ugly,the clear ones are ok as they have a level of detail,the POM ones just look like bricks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get D-Plugs rather than those ugly adjustable vid connectors.
> 
> Blocks are bulky and ugly,the clear ones are ok as they have a level of detail,the POM ones just look like bricks.


Just confirmed with him it won't work. I have the 1" version D-plugs, and its a few mm shy. He was able to measure 1.0625" which ~27mm. The D-plugs are 25mm (1"). The acetal piece does look a little bit slimmer compared to the DD blocks i used w/ the D-plugs with.

edit: I sent Fat-Italian_Stallion a pm for measurement as well to double check this.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Neither. Crystal Link all the way. Left side looks like Koolance, right side looks like a....bridge.


The only issue with that is that my build is comprised entirely of acrylic tube and the previous bridge I had on my 680's was the frosted csq style one. The issue is that I have two tubes of acrylic running up the left side of the gpu's next to where the bridge goes and I had some previous criticism that I agreed with that with the two lines of acrylic plus the two lines in the frosted bridge it looked too busy - like four lines of green running next to each other, so I'm trying to correct that issue with the 780's. Here's a pic of what I mean:


----------



## Spawne32

that build is insane.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> The only issue with that is that my build is comprised entirely of acrylic tube and the previous bridge I had on my 680's was the frosted csq style one. The issue is that I have two tubes of acrylic running up the left side of the gpu's next to where the bridge goes and I had some previous criticism that I agreed with that with the two lines of acrylic plus the two lines in the frosted bridge it looked too busy - like four lines of green running next to each other, so I'm trying to correct that issue with the 780's. Here's a pic of what I mean:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love your build man!!!!!!

anyways, EK does make a csq Titan block and you can use the same bridge you have there!


----------



## kanaks

If I was going to choose one of the two I would go with the first, If it was an all out contest I would choose this fine bridge.


----------



## crazymofo




----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love your build man!!!!!!
> 
> anyways, EK does make a csq Titan block and you can use the same bridge you have there!


I'm purposely avoiding using the frosted bridge to clean the area up and the black csq bridge is super ugly so I got the new FC Nickel blocks so I could use the alternate clean black bridge. But I was playing with the aqua links and kind of liked the look instead of the bridge. Grrrrrr can't decide.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm purposely avoiding using the frosted bridge to clean the area up and the black csq bridge is super ugly so I got the new FC Nickel blocks so I could use the alternate clean black bridge. But I was playing with the aqua links and kind of liked the look instead of the bridge. Grrrrrr can't decide.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1313632/ek-supremacy-as-it-should-be

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilfer*


----------



## derickwm

Build Log


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazymofo*


Now that is nice,I wonder if there will be an ITX version.....


----------



## derickwm

You ask and you shall receive


----------



## Sumner Rol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazymofo*


Just had to 1-up the Sabertooth


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazymofo*


Heh, sounds like fun. I wonder if it's possible to custom-make thermal armor for existing mobos using spacers. It something I have in mind but nothing concrete.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Heh, sounds like fun. I wonder if it's possible to custom-make thermal armor for existing mobos using spacers. It something I have in mind but nothing concrete.


totally gonna support you if you make one for the M5F ! (and get one from you if you do)
from the looks of it it could be possible if you use the MoBo mounting holes as what would hold the thermal armor somehow (and those spots need to be electrically isolated) and maybe some sort of clip or something with the heatsinks.


Spoiler: The Sabertooth without the armor



the white holes which aren't the motherboard mounting holes probably hold the armor on the sabertooth and i reckon that its similar with the M6F






and if you can make G1/4 adapters for those 3/8 barbs that would be so awesome


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> The only issue with that is that my build is comprised entirely of acrylic tube and the previous bridge I had on my 680's was the frosted csq style one. The issue is that I have two tubes of acrylic running up the left side of the gpu's next to where the bridge goes and I had some previous criticism that I agreed with that with the two lines of acrylic plus the two lines in the frosted bridge it looked too busy - like four lines of green running next to each other, so I'm trying to correct that issue with the 780's. Here's a pic of what I mean:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I'd buy that for a dollar


Too bad EK didn't tap another hole at the bottom left of that parallel bridge to swap that top left u-bend, it would have otherwise lessened the vertical lines on the left. Time for some C48 and acrylic to replace the short Bitspower Aqualinks.


----------



## Juthos

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/dsc00.JPG/


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/dsc00.JPG/


MUST KEEP EYES ON RIG, CAN'T LET ANYONE TOUCH IT









some people just can capture the funniest moments on tape.


----------



## Gleniu

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/dsc00.JPG/






I can see two very nice pieces of equipment in this picture


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Delete.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get D-Plugs rather than those ugly adjustable vid connectors.
> 
> Blocks are bulky and ugly,the clear ones are ok as they have a level of detail,the POM ones just look like bricks.
> 
> 
> 
> Just confirmed with him it won't work. I have the 1" version D-plugs, and its a few mm shy. He was able to measure 1.0625" which ~27mm. The D-plugs are 25mm (1"). The acetal piece does look a little bit slimmer compared to the DD blocks i used w/ the D-plugs with.
> They don't have to be fully closed up tho Werm,they extend about 4mm if I remember correctly.
> Mine are opened up about 2mm so they should work.
> 
> edit: I sent Fat-Italian_Stallion a pm for measurement as well to double check this.
Click to expand...

They don't need to be fully closed up Werm,they extend 4mm or so.
Mine are opened up around 2mm to bridge the cards.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They don't need to be fully closed up Werm,they extend 4mm or so.
> Mine are opened up around 2mm to bridge the cards.


Very true. With expensive gpu(s) I wouldnt want to risk it. The single o-ring sli fittings have leaked for me before. Going wth a bridge instead.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> 
> I can see two very nice pieces of equipment in this picture


the rig and the bitspower mod kit's


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Heh, sounds like fun. I wonder if it's possible to custom-make thermal armor for existing mobos using spacers. It something I have in mind but nothing concrete.


was thinking the same and make it white


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Board for PROT07YPE....I mean...just LOOK at it......


----------



## sakerfalcon

Except your case will catch on fire because Haswell.

Pair it with a 480 and you have the perfect mini-oven.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very true. With expensive gpu(s) I wouldnt want to risk it. The single o-ring sli fittings have leaked for me before. Going wth a bridge instead.


Be very careful with the new version of the bridge. The orings are very temperamental when trying to get them into an oval shape. Leak test like no other. Had a titan meets it's death b/c of it (replaced by evga).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Except your case will catch on fire because Haswell.
> 
> Pair it with a 480 and you have the perfect mini-oven.


No plastic to burn in my case....

Delid and all is good,some of the VRM section is on die,what did you expect?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Board for PROT07YPE....I mean...just LOOK at it......


love at first sight


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> love at first sight


Agreed, except ARGH, it's ROG red, and my build is too far deep into the UV green to turn back now!
ARGH.









Thanks - T


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Agreed, except ARGH, it's ROG red, and my build is too far deep into the UV green to turn back now!
> ARGH.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


Paint the red.


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Heh, sounds like fun. I wonder if it's possible to custom-make thermal armor for existing mobos using spacers. It something I have in mind but nothing concrete.


Was toying with the idea for my M5G and the mod I'm doing. Looking at some thin plexi


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Board for PROT07YPE....I mean...just LOOK at it......


Sexiest ITX board by a longshot! Nothing comes close at all. However the red and black theme is just played out at this point. Would love to see more colors being introduced. I mean I understand it is the ROG trademark colors but im just sayin.....


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> totally gonna support you if you make one for the M5F ! (and get one from you if you do)
> from the looks of it it could be possible if you use the MoBo mounting holes as what would hold the thermal armor somehow (and those spots need to be electrically isolated) and maybe some sort of clip or something with the heatsinks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The Sabertooth without the armor
> 
> 
> 
> the white holes which aren't the motherboard mounting holes probably hold the armor on the sabertooth and i reckon that its similar with the M6F
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and if you can make G1/4 adapters for those 3/8 barbs that would be so awesome


Sorry, I don't have a MVF. The Sabertooth has special screw holes from the backside of the PCB to mount the armor. I'm thinking of using the 9 standard mounting holes for the mobo + 1/2" spacers to create the armor. Spacer height may vary depending on armor thickness.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> was thinking the same and make it white


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomad692000*
> 
> Was toying with the idea for my M5G and the mod I'm doing. Looking at some thin plexi


So since I'm waiting for parts to become in-stock, I spent 10 minutes doing a proof of concept for thermal armor.






Lines up quite nicely.

Next step will be to do some cutouts on the printer paper, then cardboard, and then transfer that to acrylic / sheet metal.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Board for PROT07YPE....I mean...just LOOK at it......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sexiest ITX board by a longshot! Nothing comes close at all. However the red and black theme is just played out at this point. Would love to see more colors being introduced. I mean I understand it is the ROG trademark colors but im just sayin.....
Click to expand...

What red would you really see once the GPU and ram is in? Its entirely possible for me to paint the slots and go all black and badass.....


----------



## Thrasher1016

Actually......... That's a very good idea, and Solonowarion said it too, but I'm always wary of these types of mods.

What kind of paint do you use, and what's the procedure?

Thanks - T


----------



## derickwm

I was thinking about painting them a gunmetal grey or white myself


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I was thinking about painting them a gunmetal grey or white myself


Thats a good idea.....so good it's now my idea....


----------



## derickwm




----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Sorry, I don't have a MVF. The Sabertooth has special screw holes from the backside of the PCB to mount the armor. I'm thinking of using the 9 standard mounting holes for the mobo + 1/2" spacers to create the armor. Spacer height may vary depending on armor thickness.
> 
> So since I'm waiting for parts to become in-stock, I spent 10 minutes doing a proof of concept for thermal armor.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lines up quite nicely.
> 
> Next step will be to do some cutouts on the printer paper, then cardboard, and then transfer that to acrylic / sheet metal.


well, if you would have the opportunity to find a dead M5F that is not physically broken then that would be nice.







(or by some magic ask a store to lend you an open box one for a few hours







)

nice concept and idea, if you will make it i can't wait to see a prototype


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What red would you really see once the GPU and ram is in? Its entirely possible for me to paint the slots and go all black and badass.....


Would love that. Can't wait to see this in pro7otype.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I was thinking about painting them a gunmetal grey or white myself


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats a good idea.....so good it's now my idea....


oh no look what I have started ahahahaha.


----------



## TSXmike

Leak testing!










Only things are to add the lights and finish wiring her back up.


----------



## Azefore

Figured I'd come here and share after months of lurking at all the eye candy









Here's my budgeted first time water cooling loop I did a month or so ago, built upon a Swiftech H220 and includes a 120mm and a 240mm radiator. Dont mind the leaning tower of HDD, it'll be taken out soon and one 512gb SSD will take its spot hidden somewhere.



I have an Arc Midi R2 arriving today and looking forward to doing a full custom loop with that one with a paintjob, modded vents, etc

PS. ASUS board looks just epic


----------



## She loved E

Gorgeous... is the tubing/fluid UV or is it your lighting?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *She loved E*
> 
> Gorgeous... is the tubing/fluid UV or is it your lighting?


Thanks and it's the lighting. The tubing is XSPC's clear/UV blue so its a ghosty look in person.


----------



## sakerfalcon

That Noctua fan just kills the look.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> That Noctua fan just kills the look.


AP123 anyone? Or Wings I suppose.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Actually......... That's a very good idea, and Solonowarion said it too, but I'm always wary of these types of mods.
> 
> What kind of paint do you use, and what's the procedure?
> 
> Thanks - T


For me I would get some old ram and cut off the bottom to stick in while painting and just tape and paper the whole thing off.

Then get some primer and whatever color paint. ( or whatever brand you want ) Could airbrush it too.

Just give it a quick little sand to roughen it up.

Wouldnt take much. You wouldnt even necessarily have to use primer.

http://www.krylon.ca/ca/eng/products/indooroutdoor_paint/

Personally I like krylon for little things like this.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Figured I'd come here and share after months of lurking at all the eye candy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my budgeted first time water cooling loop I did a month or so ago, built upon a Swiftech H220 and includes a 120mm and a 240mm radiator. Dont mind the leaning tower of HDD, it'll be taken out soon and one 512gb SSD will take its spot hidden somewhere.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Arc Midi R2 arriving today and looking forward to doing a full custom loop with that one with a paintjob, modded vents, etc
> 
> PS. ASUS board looks just epic


Oh my god, that is absolutely drop dead gorgeous. Especially the tubing, it looks almost otherworldly.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Further adventures into Thermal Armor









The two sets of ram + big socket area + southbridge block + all those x16 lanes + lots of connectors means not much is actually covered.


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Further adventures into Thermal Armor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two sets of ram + big socket area + southbridge block + all those x16 lanes + lots of connectors means not much is actually covered.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks pretty sweet so far!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Further adventures into Thermal Armor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two sets of ram + big socket area + southbridge block + all those x16 lanes + lots of connectors means not much is actually covered.


I look forward to seeing how this turns out!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> That Noctua fan just kills the look.


Yah I've been debating making a change but in person it's a bit more dulled and plays with the UV a bit
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> AP123 anyone? Or Wings I suppose.


The AP looks like it'd fit, may go white bladed to give some contrast
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Oh my god, that is absolutely drop dead gorgeous. Especially the tubing, it looks almost otherworldly.


Thanks good sir


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Thanks and it's the lighting. The tubing is XSPC's clear/UV blue so its a ghosty look in person.


What uv light strips are you using... they seem very bright. Are they LED? I've been looking for a good set!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Figured I'd come here and share after months of lurking at all the eye candy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my budgeted first time water cooling loop I did a month or so ago, built upon a Swiftech H220 and includes a 120mm and a 240mm radiator. Dont mind the leaning tower of HDD, it'll be taken out soon and one 512gb SSD will take its spot hidden somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Arc Midi R2 arriving today and looking forward to doing a full custom loop with that one with a paintjob, modded vents, etc
> 
> PS. ASUS board looks just epic


Simply beautiful. Nice lighting too!


----------



## Namkab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Figured I'd come here and share after months of lurking at all the eye candy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my budgeted first time water cooling loop I did a month or so ago, built upon a Swiftech H220 and includes a 120mm and a 240mm radiator. Dont mind the leaning tower of HDD, it'll be taken out soon and one 512gb SSD will take its spot hidden somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Arc Midi R2 arriving today and looking forward to doing a full custom loop with that one with a paintjob, modded vents, etc
> 
> PS. ASUS board looks just epic


I get a little jealous of these h220s.. They are just so simple, effective and awesome.


----------



## Azefore

Thanks for the comments all, happy to see the effort wasn't for not lol and yah I can't say or find anything bad about the H220.
I do want to somehow make the block cover honeycomb holes transparent and put blue EL lighting behind it to make it centralized looking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spin Cykle*
> 
> What uv light strips are you using... they seem very bright. Are they LED? I've been looking for a good set!


It's actually the cheapy logisys 12" UV cathode, I've used my old blue cathode set for 7 years or more and they haven't failed me yet, a bit bulky with the inverter though.

I read a good amount of LED UV strips are dimmer and don't output enough for good fill light.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Namkab*
> 
> I get a little jealous of these h220s.. They are just so simple, effective and awesome.


It sure does clean up the loop, I'll give it that.


----------



## Qu1ckset

MVIE vs MVIF


----------



## lowfat

I wish they would try something other than red for once.


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wish they would try something other than red for once.


This! Personally I sick of seeing the high end boards always red, ASUS ROG, MSI Dragon and EVGA.......


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Figured I'd come here and share after months of lurking at all the eye candy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my budgeted first time water cooling loop I did a month or so ago, built upon a Swiftech H220 and includes a 120mm and a 240mm radiator. Dont mind the leaning tower of HDD, it'll be taken out soon and one 512gb SSD will take its spot hidden somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Arc Midi R2 arriving today and looking forward to doing a full custom loop with that one with a paintjob, modded vents, etc
> 
> PS. ASUS board looks just epic


You did very good for your first loop..


----------



## Sethris225

@Azefore
Just wondering, what were your CPU/GPU temps like?


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wish they would try something other than red for once.






Heresy!


----------



## sakerfalcon

Red makes things go faster.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Red makes things go faster.


Made me laugh.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Red makes things go faster.


And blue makes things run cooler.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Finally, after a year long battle, it brings me great honor to finally post my watercooled build in the OCN Water Cooling Club. I have dreamed of posting my rig in here ever since I started. Without further ado, enjoy!

Parts:
-PowerMac G5 Case
-GA-Z77X-UP7 Motherboard
-i7 3770k CPU
-2x AMD Radeon 7970
-Corsair TX850

Cooling:
-Black Ice 240MM
-Black Ice 360MM
-EK Supreme Nickel/Plexi
-2x Koolance VID-AR797
-Swiftech MCP35X
-Bitspower 80MM Watertank
-Swiftech Compression fittings 1/2in OD 3/8in ID

http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/ThisIsMyLastAccount/media/PowerMac G5 Mod/2_zps45f86909.jpg.html

http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/ThisIsMyLastAccount/media/PowerMac G5 Mod/8_zpsd28820ef.jpg.html

http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/ThisIsMyLastAccount/media/PowerMac G5 Mod/5_zps2f6459ee.jpg.html

You can read the whole saga in my build log by clicking on "MurderMac" in my signature.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Solonowarion

Looks awesome Jeff! Its done!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

G5 cases are baws.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> G5 cases are baws.


Baws?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Baws?


I think "baws" = "boss"

Glad to see it all came together mate







. Now where are those LD pics?!?!?!?!?!?!?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think "baws" = "boss"
> 
> Glad to see it all came together mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now where are those LD pics?!?!?!?!?!?!?


That would make sense! He hasn't shipped it yet! Waiting on funds to hit his account so he can pay to ship it. Really excited!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## sakerfalcon

That dangling SSD


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> That dangling SSD


I'm sure Jeff just put it together for some pics and use. He's moving on to a new case and its probable the ssd will be in a cage or mounted somewhere







. All the hard work he put into it, it would be fitting to see it complete (almost







) before he moves on. I would do the same









Bought a few things







:


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Finally, after a year long battle, it brings me great honor to finally post my watercooled build in the OCN Water Cooling Club. I have dreamed of posting my rig in here ever since I started. Without further ado, enjoy!
> 
> Parts:
> -PowerMac G5 Case
> -GA-Z77X-UP7 Motherboard
> -i7 3770k CPU
> -2x AMD Radeon 7970
> -Corsair TX850
> 
> Cooling:
> -Black Ice 240MM
> -Black Ice 360MM
> -EK Supreme Nickel/Plexi
> -2x Koolance VID-AR797
> -Swiftech MCP35X
> -Bitspower 80MM Watertank
> -Swiftech Compression fittings 1/2in OD 3/8in ID
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/ThisIsMyLastAccount/media/PowerMac G5 Mod/2_zps45f86909.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/ThisIsMyLastAccount/media/PowerMac G5 Mod/8_zpsd28820ef.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/ThisIsMyLastAccount/media/PowerMac G5 Mod/5_zps2f6459ee.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> You can read the whole saga in my build log by clicking on "MurderMac" in my signature.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Am I missing something







Where is the PSU?


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm sure Jeff just put it together for some pics and use. He's moving on to a new case and its probable the ssd will be in a cage or mounted somewhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . All the hard work he put into it, it would be fitting to see it complete (almost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) before he moves on. I would do the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a few things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


why did you not go for the xxl edition ???


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> why did you not go for the xxl edition ???


I already have two copper/plexi and the xxl doesn't add any benefit to the cooling and adds more weight.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bought a few things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wait... what?!?! I thought you just sold your titans!?!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Wait... what?!?! I thought you just sold your titans!?!


GTX 780 uses Titan blocks


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> GTX 780 uses Titan blocks










I knew that.... man it's been a long day.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Had a rejig of the backplate,got a 92mm fan in there now and changed the grills to something a bit more eye pleasing.


----------



## Juthos

A waterblock to cool, at the same time, the cpu and the chipset for ASUS P8Z77-I DELUXE

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/838/dsc0034jgx.jpg/


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A waterblock to cool, at the same time, the cpu and the chipset for ASUS P8Z77-I DELUXE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/838/dsc0034jgx.jpg/


Very nice... would be perfect for a WC micro server build or HTPC.


----------



## illuz

That's an awesome little build, so clean. Do I buy some new shoes or the rest of my wc'ing gear this Thursday... ?!?!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> That's an awesome little build, so clean. Do I buy some new shoes or the rest of my wc'ing gear this Thursday... ?!?!


Not sure if serious... at least when posting that question in _this_ thread.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I already have two copper/plexi and the xxl doesn't add any benefit to the cooling and adds more weight.


and a more clean look ^^

you know no nakedet pcb


----------



## derickwm

Oh wermad. And to think I thought you were downgrading to something sad, silly me.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> G5 cases are baws.


Yeah. Sad Jeffin is departing with his.


----------



## fnyk

the PROT07YPE-OCN is way more baws then the G5


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Am I missing something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where is the PSU?


Its probably disassembled and put back together to fit in the bottom chamber.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> You did very good for your first loop..


Thanks, it was much more straight forward than I though it would be however the h220 and it's radiator are to thank.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> @Azefore
> Just wondering, what were your CPU/GPU temps like?


Haven't been gaming much since I put it together but just average temps I've been seeing:

Idle: 31c CPU - 28c GPU

Load: ~53c CPU - 39c GPU (standard boost usage, haven't directly OCed the card)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A waterblock to cool, at the same time, the cpu and the chipset for ASUS P8Z77-I DELUXE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/838/dsc0034jgx.jpg/


All the WC prodigy builds just look too clean, looks great


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> and a more clean look ^^
> 
> you know no nakedet pcb


Its clean and no worries about nickel fears. I already had them so it was easier to move on to 780s.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oh wermad. And to think I thought you were downgrading to something sad, silly me.


Selling the titans going w/ 780s. More grunt for about the same cost


----------



## illuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Not sure if serious... at least when posting that question in _this_ thread.


Heh heh. It's gonna be water cooling gear for sure...


----------



## SortOfGrim

ot question: FrozenCPU or Performance-PCS? Or are they both equally good?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> ot question: FrozenCPU or Performance-PCS? Or are they both equally good?


Selection is a bit better a ppcs.com but shop both. Fcpu was a dollar more expensive for more current order but their shipping was six dollars less and the discount is pretty close for small to medium orders ( 5 vs 5.5). Generally, I order from ppcs.com since they tend to have all the items I need and its easier to place one single order.

edit: I've heard both great things and bad things about international shipping for both. So one isn't better then the other at shipping outside the US.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> ot question: FrozenCPU or Performance-PCS? Or are they both equally good?


They're both about equal. Here are two coupon codes for both retailers:

FrozenCPU: 5% off: *OCN*
Performance-PCs: 5.5% off: *OCN55*

I've always gone with FrozenCPU in the past and their service has been excellent but I've heard great stuff about performance-pcs as well so whichever one has the better price is the one I would go with. It's a win win


----------



## lowfat

For Canada PPCS charges ridiculous amounts for shipping. No idea about overseas though.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Selection is a bit better a ppcs.com but shop both. Fcpu was a dollar more expensive for more current order but their shipping was six dollars less and the discount is pretty close for small to medium orders ( 5 vs 5.5). Generally, I order from ppcs.com since they tend to have all the items I need and its easier to place one single order.
> 
> edit: I've heard both great things and bad things about international shipping for both. So one isn't better then the other at shipping outside the US.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> They're both about equal. Here are two coupon codes for both retailers:
> 
> FrozenCPU: 5% off: *OCN*
> Performance-PCs: 5.5% off: *OCN55*
> 
> I've always gone with FrozenCPU in the past and their service has been excellent but I've heard great stuff about performance-pcs as well so whichever one has the better price is the one I would go with. It's a win win


Both replies are spot on.









I use both regularly, as some things are more readily available from FCPU than PPCS, and vice versa.

It's all in what you're looking for, and also, it _could_ be down to how fast you need it, because they're in different geographical locations...

Thanks - T


----------



## jokrik

I prefer FrozenCpu, their customer support is just awesome
and they charge very reasonably with international shipping
and...
it is bad for my WC addiction


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Red makes things go faster.


If that's true, then my current project should reach warp drive capability in the next couple of weeks!


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> ot question: FrozenCPU or Performance-PCS? Or are they both equally good?


I use both as well. I have a disadvantage when it comes to PPCS though, I live in Florida so FedEx Next Business Day is cheaper than any other site's regular UPS ground. I'm totally spoiled ordering parts and getting them the next day for around $10! It's a major bonus for all those little bits I seem to forget when finalizing a build. I do still search around though. I'm always looking for a great deal, but that cheap and fast shipping always brings me back home to PPCS...


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Selection is a bit better a ppcs.com but shop both. Fcpu was a dollar more expensive for more current order but their shipping was six dollars less and the discount is pretty close for small to medium orders ( 5 vs 5.5). Generally, I order from ppcs.com since they tend to have all the items I need and its easier to place one single order.
> 
> edit: I've heard both great things and bad things about international shipping for both. So one isn't better then the other at shipping outside the US.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> They're both about equal. Here are two coupon codes for both retailers:
> 
> FrozenCPU: 5% off: *OCN*
> Performance-PCs: 5.5% off: *OCN55*
> 
> I've always gone with FrozenCPU in the past and their service has been excellent but I've heard great stuff about performance-pcs as well so whichever one has the better price is the one I would go with. It's a win win


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Both replies are spot on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use both regularly, as some things are more readily available from FCPU than PPCS, and vice versa.
> 
> It's all in what you're looking for, and also, it _could_ be down to how fast you need it, because they're in different geographical locations...
> 
> Thanks - T


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I prefer FrozenCpu, their customer support is just awesome
> and they charge very reasonably with international shipping
> and...
> it is bad for my WC addiction


Thx all!








Last thing I received from the states was from Dwood using USPS priority mail, it took (only?) 3 weeks.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> This! Personally I sick of seeing the high end boards always red, ASUS ROG, MSI Dragon and EVGA.......


Gigabyte FTW


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Gigabyte FTW


I'd rather them use a neutral colour for their high end boards. If I want a high end board I am pretty much stuck w/ red, orange, or lime green.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd rather them use a neutral colour for their high end boards. If I want a high end board I am pretty much stuck w/ red, orange, or lime green.


I wish someone would make a blacked out board


----------



## derickwm

My Rampage III Black Edition says hallo to you Philly


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My Rampage III Black Edition says hallo to you Philly


Oh yeah







there needs to be one for every chipset.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Gigabyte FTW


he was saying high end not middle end


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> he was saying high end not middle end


UD7=mid-range?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My Rampage III Black Edition says hallo to you Philly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there needs to be one for every chipset.
Click to expand...

I wish. I want to upgrade









Probably just end up painting my next board, whatever that may be.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its clean and no worries about nickel fears. I already had them so it was easier to move on to 780s.
> Selling the titans going w/ 780s. More grunt for about the same cost


----------



## derickwm

2 Titans ~= 3 780s in cost
2 Titans < 3 780s in performance

Unless somebody really needed 6GB of VRAM.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 2 Titans ~= 3 780s in cost
> 2 Titans < 3 780s in performance
> 
> Unless somebody really needed 6GB of VRAM.


Glad for us, a 6gb version is rumoured!


----------



## derickwm

I'm pretty sure the 6GB Classified is confirmed







just no price yet, which I'm sure won't be cheap.


----------



## PedroC1999

Yes, but it will be between the 780 and the Titan, so It will be better value for money instantly, depending on how far away from the Titan it is


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> That dangling SSD


That's all you notice?







It will be fixed when I truly complete the build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Am I missing something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where is the PSU?


It is that big black thing in the bottom of the case! I removed the PCB from the regular case and slapped it in there, cut the wires short and made extensions.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> UD7=mid-range?


no no no ud7=little over low end
ud9=mid range


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Further adventures into Thermal Armor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two sets of ram + big socket area + southbridge block + all those x16 lanes + lots of connectors means not much is actually covered.


Nice







can't wait to see what you will do next.
(i think a MoBo armor has a bit more aesthetic on 1155/1150 and not on the massive 2011)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd rather them use a neutral colour for their high end boards. If I want a high end board I am pretty much stuck w/ red, orange, or lime green.


Maybe MoBo Manufacturers are secretly trying to save some money for people like you by doing mid range neutral?









/conspiracy


----------



## ToothBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> SNIP!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


great to finaly see you rig here in this thread, jeff! good work!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> great to finaly see you rig here in this thread, jeff! good work!


Thanks!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 2 Titans ~= 3 780s in cost
> 2 Titans < 3 780s in performance
> 
> Unless somebody really needed 6GB of VRAM.


i do becos im realy soon runing with 3 times 2k monitors (2560x1440) as one big screan


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> ot question: FrozenCPU or Performance-PCS? Or are they both equally good?


Why not Aquatuning i buy everything from there good sortiment, good price, fast and cheap chipping.


----------



## SoloTwo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> ot question: FrozenCPU or Performance-PCS? Or are they both equally good?


I've been using FrozenCPU for a while but had a couple issues in my last order with the wrong stuff and some stuff not sent. But they quickly fixed it with no issues. They also always ship out same day and do a good job of packing.

But because of that I figured I'd give Performance PC a try. Took an extra day to get shipped and since I didn't feel like paying 15-20 bucks to ship a 19 dollar part I went with first class since it was an option. This happened.





And since there shipping department was apparently off yesterday I had to wait till today to get a response and thankfully after the wait they told me to go fly a kite. No attempt to even try and help me out. So make sure if you do order from them pay the highest shipping cost otherwise if something happens its on you, and not there shipping department that thinks its a good idea to stick a flat metal product into paper envelope with a handful of packing peanuts on one side.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> I've been using FrozenCPU for a while but had a couple issues in my last order with the wrong stuff and some stuff not sent. But they quickly fixed it with no issues. They also always ship out same day and do a good job of packing.
> 
> But because of that I figured I'd give Performance PC a try. Took an extra day to get shipped and since I didn't feel like paying 15-20 bucks to ship a 19 dollar part I went with first class since it was an option. This happened.
> 
> And since there shipping department was apparently off yesterday I had to wait till today to get a response and thankfully after the wait they told me to go fly a kite. No attempt to even try and help me out. So make sure if you do order from them pay the highest shipping cost otherwise if something happens its on you, and not there shipping department that thinks its a good idea to stick a flat metal product into paper envelope with a handful of packing peanuts on one side.


Interesting. I actually had a shipping issue with PPS's sending the wrong items recently. I ended up going with the wrong parts anyway. In general however, of all of the dozens and dozens and dozens of order's I've placed with PPC's and FCPU I've been nothing but happy with both, both have shipped fast and have great customer service. Mistakes can happen and I understand that, it's okay







I'm also a big fan of PPC's "New Products" section, always a fun daily read. I recommend both equally.


----------



## SoloTwo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Interesting. I actually had a shipping issue with PPS's sending the wrong items recently. I ended up going with the wrong parts anyway. In general however, of all of the dozens and dozens and dozens of order's I've placed with PPC's and FCPU I've been nothing but happy with both, both have shipped fast and have great customer service. Mistakes can happen and I understand that, it's okay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also a big fan of PPC's "New Products" section, always a fun daily read. I recommend both equally.


Frozen has a new products section also.







(I also go to each new product page every day -_-)

You pay a extreme premium to get products shipped from performancepc but they take much longer to ship and if something is damaged you are out of luck. But in retrospect I should have paid 15 bucks to ship my 19 dollar it via ups.


----------



## nagle3092

No they should have shipped it properly, I know when I bought the plates from EVGA they sent both plates in individual boxes, in the same package.

BTW what mat is that, looks pretty nice...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Yeah, every package I've had from PPC's has shipped almost immediately and, if anything, they overpack their packages with enough packing peanuts to please a large elephant









I think your packing issue was an isolated incident.


----------



## derickwm

PPCs has hiccups when it comes to First Class Mail, other than that they do a pretty excellent job. Always have tons of packing peanuts to play in after a big order


----------



## Fridge Gnome

FrozenCPU did send me plain clear tubing instead of the blue I ordered once, but I never asked for a replacement so I can't really blame them much there. Other than that I've had a great time ordering with them.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't wait to see what you will do next.
> (i think a MoBo armor has a bit more aesthetic on 1155/1150 and not on the massive 2011)
> Maybe MoBo Manufacturers are secretly trying to save some money for people like you by doing mid range neutral?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /conspiracy


Yeah, I'm inclined to agree. I'm going to grab some sheet metal and acrylic in the next few days. I'm not sure if it's worth it to find a shop that can do laser cutting.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Why not Aquatuning i buy everything from there good sortiment, good price, fast and cheap chipping.


true, I've bought from them in the past. But they don't have the items I want.


----------



## Jeemil89

Hi guys.

There is a lot of nice builds here and I was thinking that it's time to post pictures of my build as well.
It's not completed yet so if you guys are interested I could start a build log about my project.
Also it would be nice to join the club!

Sorry about the picture quality... got to get a decent camera...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> There is a lot of nice builds here and I was thinking that it's time to post pictures of my build as well.
> It's not completed yet so if you guys are interested I could start a build log about my project.
> Also it would be nice to join the club!
> 
> Sorry about the picture quality... got to get a decent camer
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean HAF X mod









Looking forward to the finished photo's.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I wish someone would make a blacked out board


Rumored RIVE Black Edition



LINK


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Rumored RIVE Black Edition
> 
> LINK


They only made two of those boards and that is all you will ever see.

EDIT: Seems they made three actually.

EDIT2: As for the R3BE. It is IMHO still the best looking motherboard ever. Pretty much every ROG board since has been disappointing in aesthetics.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They only made two of those boards and that is all you will ever see.
> 
> EDIT: Seems they made three actually.
> 
> EDIT2: As for the R3BE. It is IMHO still the best looking motherboard ever. Pretty much every ROG board since has been disappointing in aesthetics.


You mean like the R3BE that I purchased today?







Okay enough gloating, I agree, hands down the most beautiful board I have seen, right behind that would be the GA-Z77X-UP7 in my opinion.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Yeah, I'm inclined to agree. I'm going to grab some sheet metal and acrylic in the next few days. I'm not sure if it's worth it to find a shop that can do laser cutting.


Acrylic? i have a potentially awesome idea: do the armor in 2 layers, one metal and under it acrylic. that way you could make LED holes in the acrylic part (if it is possible to do without the acrylic being too thick) and then you could do some writing / illustrations on the metal layer to have a great effect. (and if not then just an awesome glow effect around the MoBo armor)

just throwing ideas. (in the hope ASUS won't still them from you next gen







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> There is a lot of nice builds here and I was thinking that it's time to post pictures of my build as well.
> It's not completed yet so if you guys are interested I could start a build log about my project.
> Also it would be nice to join the club!
> 
> Sorry about the picture quality... got to get a decent camera...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


maybe it is the camera, but i think that the coolant lacks some color intensity.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Rumored RIVE Black Edition
> 
> 
> 
> LINK


don't want to be the hope crusher, but the RIVE black Ed is a limited edition which won't be widely sold and for a high mark up.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They only made two of those boards and that is all you will ever see.
> 
> EDIT: Seems they made three actually.
> 
> EDIT2: As for the R3BE. It is IMHO still the best looking motherboard ever. Pretty much every ROG board since has been disappointing in aesthetics.
> 
> 
> 
> You mean like the R3BE that I purchased today?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay enough gloating, I agree, hands down the most beautiful board I have seen, right behind that would be the GA-Z77X-UP7 in my opinion.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Shhh when you talk about it like that I almost want to keep it


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Shhh when you talk about it like that I almost want to keep it










no way. lol


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Acrylic? i have a potentially awesome idea: do the armor in 2 layers, one metal and under it acrylic. that way you could make LED holes in the acrylic part (if it is possible to do without the acrylic being too thick) and then you could do some writing / illustrations on the metal layer to have a great effect. (and if not then just an awesome glow effect around the MoBo armor)
> 
> just throwing ideas. (in the hope ASUS won't still them from you next gen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> maybe it is the camera, but i think that the coolant lacks some color intensity.
> don't want to be the hope crusher, but the RIVE black Ed is a limited edition which won't be widely sold and for a high mark up.


Nope. They only made three and they all went to Nvidia. Will never see retail. Was probably just a stunt to guage interest for future blacks editions of future boards.


----------



## frank anderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd rather them use a neutral colour for their high end boards. If I want a high end board I am pretty much stuck w/ red, orange, or lime green.


I just recently picked up a MSI Bigbang X Power II, a pretty decent board coming from my last 3 builds all being Gigabyte boards, went with MSI this round because it's the only 2011 board that I can find that has dual NIC's which I need, apart from the Asrock Extreme 11 board, which is just way overkill and I dont need the onboard LSI raid anyways.

It comes in BLACK









also XSPC makes a nice block for the board, added a Koolance 380i with the perfect matching color theme, my GPU's are using nickel blocks, oh my... here's some pics !!

http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00049_zps999d7e48.jpg.html

http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00048_zps5ee86d4d.jpg.html

http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00047_zpsda280d49.jpg.html

http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00046_zpsfe854018.jpg.html

http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00045_zpsb27dca40.jpg.html

http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00040_zpscd669169.jpg.html

http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00039_zps45a6699c.jpg.html

http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00038_zps2b509b6e.jpg.html

http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00037_zpsd571d3bc.jpg.html


----------



## Seredin

holy crap that's gorgeous


----------



## TSXmike

fin!

http://s5.photobucket.com/user/blackaccordlx/media/20130605_231505_zps59c61c52.jpg.html

http://s5.photobucket.com/user/blackaccordlx/media/20130605_231851_zps116aecb8.jpg.html


----------



## Seredin

I dig it, but it looks to me like you're in desperate need of a tripod









I really like the shadows being cast around inside there.


----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I dig it, but it looks to me like you're in desperate need of a tripod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the shadows being cast around inside there.


it was taken with my galaxy s3.

will take some pro shots of it later this week.


----------



## Namkab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> fin!
> 
> http://s5.photobucket.com/user/blackaccordlx/media/20130605_231505_zps59c61c52.jpg.html
> 
> This is pretty close to what I would do if I rebuilt.


----------



## p2mob

Ello! I will be joining the club soon. I am planning on setting up some water cooling for my 8350 my CHVFZ to begin with.
I really don't have much idea about water cooling, but will deff be doing a lot of research this week. I currently have Corssair H110, 280mm rad.

one thing I know I saw this really nice motherboard water block for NB and the mofsets, I think it was around a 104$.

If you have any advises for me what to buy and what to stay away from...PLEASE FEEEEED MEEE the knowledge.


----------



## SoloTwo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> BTW what mat is that, looks pretty nice...


Modright extreme mod mat.

Honestly didn't need it but it looks pretty neat.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Question not entirely unrelated - has anyone done work involving copper foil with or without adhesive backing? How does it feel/look?


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> There is a lot of nice builds here and I was thinking that it's time to post pictures of my build as well.
> It's not completed yet so if you guys are interested I could start a build log about my project.
> Also it would be nice to join the club!
> 
> Sorry about the picture quality... got to get a decent camera...


Nice build! Why don't you flip around the top rad so you can keep the drive cages? It worked on mine!


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Nice build! Why don't you flip around the top rad so you can keep the drive cages? It worked on mine!


His front rad is a 240 so it wouldn't fit under the front bays if he retained them.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frank anderson*
> 
> I just recently picked up a MSI Bigbang X Power II, a pretty decent board coming from my last 3 builds all being Gigabyte boards, went with MSI this round because it's the only 2011 board that I can find that has dual NIC's which I need, apart from the Asrock Extreme 11 board, which is just way overkill and I dont need the onboard LSI raid anyways.
> 
> It comes in BLACK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also XSPC makes a nice block for the board, added a Koolance 380i with the perfect matching color theme, my GPU's are using nickel blocks, oh my... here's some pics !!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00049_zps999d7e48.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00048_zps5ee86d4d.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00047_zpsda280d49.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00046_zpsfe854018.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00045_zpsb27dca40.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00040_zpscd669169.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00039_zps45a6699c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00038_zps2b509b6e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/frankanderson_/media/IMG-20130603-00037_zpsd571d3bc.jpg.html


Curse you... you are making me want to get the chipset block set.







What fittings are you planning on using between the chipset and cpu blocks?


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frank anderson*
> 
> I just recently picked up a MSI Bigbang X Power II, a pretty decent board coming from my last 3 builds all being Gigabyte boards, went with MSI this round because it's the only 2011 board that I can find that has dual NIC's which I need, apart from the Asrock Extreme 11 board, which is just way overkill and I dont need the onboard LSI raid anyways.
> 
> It comes in BLACK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also XSPC makes a nice block for the board, added a Koolance 380i with the perfect matching color theme, my GPU's are using nickel blocks, oh my... here's some pics !!


I have a msi big bang x power II too but with this block:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/img0294bx.jpg/


----------



## mikailmohammed

I must say that looks really clean and well done. Love the fan as well. Using 3 of them for my rad soon.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Hey coolers, I recently changed out my old GTX 470 for a GTX 670 FTW (680 reference board) and after testing it for a couple of weeks I ordered some lovlies to go with it









An Alphacool backplate to match my rads and a copper Aquacomputer Kryographics acrylic cooler (and gummy bears yay)
I just grabbed a quick phone pic, I'll fit it tomorrow if I get time..


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Hey coolers, I recently changed out my old GTX 470 for a GTX 670 FTW (680 reference board) and after testing it for a couple of weeks I ordered some lovlies to go with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An Alphacool backplate to match my rads and a copper Aquacomputer Kryographics acrylic cooler (and gummy bears yay)
> I just grabbed a quick phone pic, I'll fit it tomorrow if I get time..


i bet you bought the water block just for the gummy bears









wonder if Aquacomputer would ever make a 79x0 version. (crosses fingers)


----------



## phillyd

I want to give a theme to my switch build. I will be using green black and silver/chrome. Any ideas for a show/game/movie...?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I want to give a theme to my switch build. I will be using green black and silver/chrome. Any ideas for a show/game/movie...?




And here's the car he drove:


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I want to give a theme to my switch build. I will be using green black and silver/chrome. Any ideas for a show/game/movie...?


i know it isn't that well known and possibly hard to pull off but you could try a Command & Conquer theme with the main focus on Tiberium (which is dark green).

the most difficult thing IMO would be to decide which C&C how it could be implemented and how to use green. (also, i recommend to more focus on C&C3 and/or the expansion to it since it has the most things that could potentially have a main theme)

i guess the biggest problem is that (for me) it is hard to think of a green themed game and that is the only one that i could think off where Green is very important.

Good luck


----------



## phillyd

I need some more suggestions because it needs to be something I have a connection to and like a lot. Hmmm...


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I need some more suggestions because it needs to be something I have a connection to and like a lot. Hmmm...


so a least of your favorite games or movies of all times could be a start.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i bet you bought the water block just for the gummy bears
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wonder if Aquacomputer would ever make a 79x0 version. (crosses fingers)


I wouldn't count on it. I asked Shoggy a while back and he told me that the demands for their 79x0 block were too low to make another version of it.
Understandable although I'd recon that if they made an Kryographics block for it it'd definitely outsell the heatkiller block.

But hey, new AMD cards are on their way (I hope







) so soon we'll have their lovelyness on the AMD cards as well


----------



## phillyd

Hah millions. Uhm...i like shooters (I'd never do a COD build), Tarantino, star trek, metal...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hah millions. Uhm...i like shooters (I'd never do a COD build), Tarantino, star trek, metal...


Tarantino or Stark Trek for sure!!!

(also if you'd seen Death Race 2000 you'd be choosing that







)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I need some more suggestions because it needs to be something I have a connection to and like a lot. Hmmm...


Why do you even need a theme?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> I wouldn't count on it. I asked Shoggy a while back and he told me that the demands for their 79x0 block were too low to make another version of it.
> Understandable although I'd recon that if they made an Kryographics block for it it'd definitely outsell the heatkiller block.
> 
> But hey, new AMD cards are on their way (I hope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so soon we'll have their lovelyness on the AMD cards as well


i also think that if they make a 7970 version it will sell well. (especially a nickel version)
i guess EK, xspc and the rest should suffice... (don't get me wrong, those are all great too)

btw, i am not sure how would everyone think of it but IMO more blocks in general could follow EK's frosted idea of design (but not circles







).doesn't sound like a difference but it does give a slight unique look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hah millions. Uhm...i like shooters (I'd never do a COD build), Tarantino, star trek, metal...


shooters eh? go on TF2







(i kid, it would be tons of hats that surround a rig within it)
just for the sake of it, i think that CoD 1 , UO and 2 were the best. *prepares flame suit just in case*

Tarantino's movies are awesome, but can't really think of anything really green in those. (random thought: Th Matrix has a green tint...)


----------



## phillyd

Thanks for the help guys, any more ideas?


----------



## PedroC1999

Any Idea why a Alphacool 7950/70 wont fit on my reference 7950, theres like a 1cm gap between GPU and block and it just doesn't fit on


----------



## LayerCakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> His front rad is a 240 so it wouldn't fit under the front bays if he retained them.


That's what the dremmel was made for


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Any Idea why a Alphacool 7950/70 wont fit on my reference 7950, theres like a 1cm gap between GPU and block and it just doesn't fit on


which 7950 is it exactly? it could be a later revision of the pcb (a mini update) which probably makes all the difference but it possibly doesn't state that on the box (you should check the pcb model number near the PCI-E connection and compare it with EK's cooling configurator and their PCB numbers since EK is mostly correct with their compatibility lists)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Redone back plate and a larger rad bay with a 120 exhaust in it.

Lowfat put me on to the diagonal grills,They do look rather nice


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Redone back plate and a larger rad bay with a 120 exhaust in it.
> 
> Lowfat put me on to the diagonal grills,They do look rather nice














































Looks awesome


----------



## lowfat

Is that a full sized ATX PSU and not an SFX?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that a full sized ATX PSU and not an SFX?


Yup,full size ATX,in this instance a scale AX 850.


----------



## Chomuco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*


baba neww !!!! salu2...!!god!! beleezaa


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks for the help guys, any more ideas?


What about Planet Terror ? Tarantino IN da movie, Rodriguez directing it, tons of green gas and goo.


----------



## thestache

Derikwm posted this up in my build log:



New EK Clean memory block. Looking good! They are now up on the EK web store with some other new items too like the SE block and it's backplate.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> Nice build! Why don't you flip around the top rad so you can keep the drive cages? It worked on mine!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LayerCakes*
> 
> That's what the dremmel was made for


I don't like the looks of those haf x drive cages, so it was the drives or the rad. I chose the rad







but it's not finished yet so there is going to be something special to fill the empty space up front.


----------



## Michalius

Couple pics from my build log:


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Couple pics from my build log:


Love that combination. Always wanted to do a build with that combination but the GTX Titan blocks don't come like that so I just went with clean acetal. Those CPU blocks look soo nice.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Any Idea why a Alphacool 7950/70 wont fit on my reference 7950, theres like a 1cm gap between GPU and block and it just doesn't fit on


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> which 7950 is it exactly? it could be a later revision of the pcb (a mini update) which probably makes all the difference but it possibly doesn't state that on the box (you should check the pcb model number near the PCI-E connection and compare it with EK's cooling configurator and their PCB numbers since EK is mostly correct with their compatibility lists)


More importantly (or equally importantly rather) which Alphacool block is it?

The V1 block fits 7970 PCB's
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1120_-Alphacool-NexXxoS-ATXP-ATI-7970-50-Serie---Edelstahl-poliert---Silber.html

The V2 fits 7950 PCB's
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1142_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ATXP-ATI-7970-50-Serie-V2---Edelstahl-geb-rstet---SchwarzV2.html

If your card is not a reference PCB it will not fit either of them.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> More importantly (or equally importantly rather) which Alphacool block is it?
> 
> The V1 block fits 7970 PCB's
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1120_-Alphacool-NexXxoS-ATXP-ATI-7970-50-Serie---Edelstahl-poliert---Silber.html
> 
> The V2 fits 7950 PCB's
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1142_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ATXP-ATI-7970-50-Serie-V2---Edelstahl-geb-rstet---SchwarzV2.html
> 
> If your card is not a reference PCB it will not fit either of them.


My card is 100% reference, but the block is a V1, is that why it wont fit?


----------



## thestache

Done all I can do without my EK X3 Reservoir so here is a teaser. Never buying from PLE again, worst shop ever, took them 6 days to post my order and I still haven't got it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> My card is 100% reference, but the block is a V1, is that why it wont fit?


Which gpu model?

http://coolingconfigurator.com/

Hmmm, the configurator says its a 7950 block. V1 might be only for the reference 79*7*0 and the V2 might be for V2 7950/7970.

Can you find a ek 7950 block?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> My card is 100% reference, but the block is a V1, is that why it wont fit?


The V1 block is for the reference 7970 PCB


If you look at the compatability list for the Alphacool blocks
http://www.alphacool.com/download/compatibility%20list%20ATI.pdf
The V1 is all 7970's with a few 7950's
the V2 is all 7950's with a couple of 7970


----------



## PedroC1999

PowerColor 7950 PCS+


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah, the powercolour PCS+ is a 7950 reference PCB
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Powercolor/HD_7950_PCS_Plus/3.html

The V1 block is only for 7970 PCB's

If you zoom into the PCB pictured on the Alphacool website you will see the differences for each block

It is also on the V2 block compatibility list.


----------



## PedroC1999

So the V2 7950/70 block will fit my 7950?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> So the V2 7950/70 block will fit my 7950?


As long as your PCB is this one


Then yes


----------



## PedroC1999

It is exactly the same, thanks


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Redone back plate and a larger rad bay with a 120 exhaust in it.
> 
> Lowfat put me on to the diagonal grills,They do look f'ing _incredible_!


FTFY


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> It is exactly the same, thanks


Sorry for dropping out like that. Wife asked me to do the dishes tonight







. Glad to hear you got it resolved. +1 to Jak for clarification. I had a hunch V2 was for 7950 & 7970 cards.


----------



## wermad

New definition of "full cover" mb block. Covers pretty much the entire board


----------



## SoloTwo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New definition of "full cover" mb block. Covers pretty much the entire board


Wow I hope that build was rushed or something.

You would think they'd put a bit more effort into a build that's going to be displayed at a trade show.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> New definition of "full cover" mb block. Covers pretty much the entire board


Awful looking build. Whoever put that together should be ashamed of themselves... With that out of the way though. Full board block is interesting. Apart from it looking new/strange it would eliminate a lot of issues with tubing and routing. Wonder how restrictive it would be and what kind of temps you'd get.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> New definition of "full cover" mb block. Covers pretty much the entire board


i think this is just a well done combination of a normal CPU + MoBo blocks with a ASUS Thermal Armor like cover over it. that's a good idea but it has to be done by more manufacturers out there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sorry for dropping out like that. Wife asked me to do the dishes tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Glad to hear you got it resolved. +1 to Jak for clarification. I had a hunch V2 was for 7950 & 7970 cards.


Actually, the V2 is *ONLY* for 7950 ref design. (the listed 7970s that are compatible with the block have a 7950 pcb design)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> Wow I hope that build was rushed or something.
> 
> You would think they'd put a bit more effort into a build that's going to be displayed at a trade show.


well, since Sapphire is mainly GPUs i bet either no modders were assigned to them or Sapphire came late and all of the modders/builders were already "taken" to other, bigger companies in the show or all went for the competitions. (plus maybe Sapphire had limited WC components available to them)


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> well, since Sapphire is mainly GPUs i bet either no modders were assigned to them or Sapphire came late and all of the modders/builders were already "taken" to other, bigger companies in the show or all went for the competitions. (plus maybe Sapphire had limited WC components available to them)


Maybe... but then again I would hope that at least 3-4 employees could put together something better than THAT! It doesn't have to be modded with a custom paint job and tons of one-off fabricated pieces to not look like a bargain bin at Fry's threw up on a case.

There's littlerally NOTHING right about that build except for the two water blocks... and it would take 10 minutes to even notice them with all the other noise going on inside that case. Just picking one or two colors, and thinking about the wire/tube runs for a few minutes should have resulted in something better than this.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Maybe... but then again I would hope that at least 3-4 employees could put together something better than THAT! It doesn't have to be modded with a custom paint job and tons of one-off fabricated pieces to not look like a bargain bin at Fry's threw up on a case.
> 
> There's littlerally NOTHING right about that build except for the two water blocks... and it would take 10 minutes to even notice them with all the other noise going on inside that case. Just picking one or two colors, and thinking about the wire/tube runs for a few minutes should have resulted in something better than this.


while i agree, i think that Sapphire simply came really late and didn't have the time and or right components. In trade shows anything that can go wrong will go wrong.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> while i agree, i think that Sapphire simply came really late and didn't have the time and or right components. In trade shows anything that can go wrong will go wrong.


It's not like they didn't have a year to prepare for it since the last one... When you're a company as big as they are, there really is no excuse. And we all know what most of us are capable of in a full day when we have everything we need and money isn't an issue. OCN and it's users are a prime example of that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i think this is just a well done combination of a normal CPU + MoBo blocks with a ASUS Thermal Armor like cover over it. that's a good idea but it has to be done by more manufacturers out there.
> Actually, the V2 is *ONLY* for 7950 ref design. (the listed 7970s that are compatible with the block have a 7950 pcb design)
> well, since Sapphire is mainly GPUs i bet either no modders were assigned to them or Sapphire came late and all of the modders/builders were already "taken" to other, bigger companies in the show or all went for the competitions. (plus maybe Sapphire had limited WC components available to them)


Should have clarified V2 is for 7950 and 7970 V2. V1 is for the reference 7970 (V1).

Its an interesting block they used for the cpu and mb. But, i would imagine its gonna be hella expensive and useless if you decide to change your mb down the road. I say stick with cpu blocks as they're more universal.

edit:

http://www.alphacool.com/download/compatibility%20list%20ATI.pdf


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Derikwm posted this up in my build log:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New EK Clean memory block. Looking good! They are now up on the EK web store with some other new items too like the SE block and it's backplate.


I think I actually prefer the CSQ circle versions.


----------



## tiborrr12

See ,I told you it will look plain once you see CSQ.









I do admit it's a bit over the top on the Full-Cover blocks but MB, RAM & CPU blocks look great with the circles.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


Haha, Alphacool copy-pasted our list. I bet If I hide some hidden words in that name list they won't even see it


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> See ,I told you it will look plain once you see CSQ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do admit it's a bit over the top on the Full-Cover blocks but MB, RAM & CPU blocks look great with the circles.


Do you have pics of the CSQ Titan SE block yet?


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I need some more suggestions because it needs to be something I have a connection to and like a lot. Hmmm...


Borderlands 2 "Corrosive" Build? Depending on how talented you are at fabricating, I could picture that coming out looking AWESOME...!!!! Make the case look like it's been hit with some acid or something, could look very nice!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> See ,I told you it will look plain once you see CSQ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do admit it's a bit over the top on the Full-Cover blocks but MB, RAM & CPU blocks look great with the circles.


Talking of over the top and something you will apprieciate,just picked up a Bridgeport interact series 2 for the workshop (the shed XD)

Costing me more to hook up a domestic 3 phase than it did for the machine!!

Far better than those desktop single phase bits of crap off eBay.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Do you have pics of the CSQ Titan SE block yet?


Not yet, they will be ready on Monday. Too hectic schedule lately









@B-NEG:


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> It's not like they didn't have a year to prepare for it since the last one... When you're a company as big as they are, there really is no excuse. And we all know what most of us are capable of in a full day when we have everything we need and money isn't an issue. OCN and it's users are a prime example of that.


Agree! Check my sig for what I put together in less than 24 hours, painting included, and I'm not even experienced modder (only my second WC build)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Haha, Alphacool copy-pasted our list. I bet If I hide some hidden words in that name list they won't even see it


Lol. Is your 7970 V2 block the FC7950 block? Just curious









Btw, what's the word on the terminals w/ the plexi blocks? I've been getting concerns that the plexi is cracking at the middle screw. Are the screws the same as the acetal piece or does the terminal have its own screws? Obviously, I won't over tighten them but I've been hearing reports (fyi) that it could easily happen even when you're not forcing/over-turning them. Thanks









Btw, I like the clean look. CSQ is still







for me if im honest.


----------



## WebsterXC

Looks like Swiftech is finally diversifying their product line. Komodo blocks for both the Titan and GTX780:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Looks like Swiftech is finally diversifying their product line. Komodo blocks for both the Titan and GTX780:


= EVGA hydro copper. Usually they make Nvidia blocks for AIC EVGA but on occasion they will brand one of their blocks under their name. I guess for those that don't have an EVGA or name but want the same block


----------



## gl0ry

Well I updated my rig. After a lot of RMA issues and other shenanigans I finally finished.

This is probably the proudest moment of my building "career". I was able to get a Black Ice Pro II Radiator from performance-pcs and it's the thinnest radiator I could find. I prayed that it would work.. Look at how close of a fit this is in my 600t.... there's literally maybe 1mm of room between the rad and motherboard fin!



Overall really happy. I spent a lot of time on aesthetics. Had a really close call with the Monsoon fittings. First time I've used compression fittings and I tightened them so hard not knowing the implications... I ended up having to use a wrench because the barbs came undone with the fittings... Pain in the ass but I'm glad they were still usable afterwards. Now I only finger tighten the fittings.

So far, the delidded 3770k is going strong right now at 5ghz @ 1.39v with idle temps at ~27c and full load at ~60-68c.





With the lights off!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> = EVGA hydro copper. Usually they make Nvidia blocks for AIC EVGA but on occasion they will brand one of their blocks under their name. I guess for those that don't have an EVGA or name but want the same block


Except the Swiftech looks way better. Cleaned front plate and one of the best looking backplates.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> New definition of "full cover" mb block. Covers pretty much the entire board


Where dó you guys get those full over bloks from ???


----------



## wermad

Congrats! Ahem, how will you secure your lan-box







? (j/k).


----------



## illuz

That's a damn nice bike.

And in other awesome news, my college paid me £100 today (even though I shouldn't have been) so I've just ordered the rest of my water-cooling gear, I should be joining the club next Wednesday. SO EXCITED


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats! Ahem, how will you secure your lan-box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? (j/k).


Thx Wermad, apparently you can buy 12v cigarette lighters so you can charge your phone ect on the go, Its on my list.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> See ,I told you it will look *clean* once you see CSQ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do admit it's a bit over the top on the Full-Cover blocks but MB, RAM & CPU blocks look great with the circles.


Fixed.

The clean blocks look perfect. Hope EK keeps this look for a long time. Modern, clean and crisp. Love it.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Way off topic and its air cooled, but its my first brand new bike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s25.photobucket.com/user/spritzen/media/P5300239_zps0b1ddb7d.jpg.html


Love the bike and the ape hangers bro. Can't wait to get my new forty eight with ape hangers. Will be a wild bike.

Speaking of which time for a ride.


----------



## sivoloc

Awesome!


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Fixed.
> 
> The clean blocks look perfect. Hope EK keeps this look for a long time. Modern, clean and crisp. Love it.


We'll keep both


----------



## Lisjak

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Way off topic and its air cooled, but its my first brand new bike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s25.photobucket.com/user/spritzen/media/P5300239_zps0b1ddb7d.jpg.html






I'm not really a Harley guy but that look pretty nice. Congrants and enjoy it!

That's a pretty awesome setup gl0ry







Do you plan on putting the gpu's under water as well?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I can just about get the smaller of the Aqualis res with a DDC top in,not made a D5 top yet..



Its the widest of the tube res available so any other res should fit easily.



Another thing that i have noticed,you can assemble the tray,backplate and midplate then add all the components then just bolt on the body for easy building.

I never studied gynecology so im not used to working in confined conditions.


----------



## wermad

I know its the shadow play, but would like to see a render in gloss/piano black after looking at these pics


----------



## B NEGATIVE

delete


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I can do that for you,one minute

EDIT: One minute later...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I know its the shadow play, but would like to see a render in gloss/piano black after looking at these pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tray and midplate are gloss black Werm. You want me to do the whole thing?
Click to expand...

If you don't mind


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can do that for you,one minute
> 
> EDIT: One minute later...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You do realize Bneg that once you build a case you never go back to store bought, just a warning for your wallet.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can do that for you,one minute
> 
> EDIT: One minute later...


That is beautiful B, nice work









* I didn't spoiler it cuz I think the next person should see it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I know its the shadow play, but would like to see a render in gloss/piano black after looking at these pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tray and midplate are gloss black Werm. You want me to do the whole thing?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you don't mind
Click to expand...





Better?


----------



## wermad




----------



## ginger_nuts

B Neg this is just plain showing off.

Keep it coming.

How about a matt purple? With a white background. If you can.


----------



## Hand_Grenade

Gifts from the watercooling fairy




and some red led to replace the stock led color to make this


----------



## derickwm

Ooo


----------



## NewHighScore

That is one beautiful little mITX case. I love the vertical mount of the motherboard. I been wanting to go mITX for a while but there aren't any cases I really agreed with but this one I absolutely love Bneg.

Will you be producing many of them?


----------



## Beakz

[quote name="B NEGATIVE"




Better? [/quote] great now I'm really kicking myself in the pants for going with an e-atx mobo..


----------



## Beakz

Please tell me you could make one a 90° rotated mobo and have it e-atx compatible. It would be like a mini TJ-07


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Seriously, when it comes time to get some of these made, I want in.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> That is one beautiful little mITX case. I love the vertical mount of the motherboard. I been wanting to go mITX for a while but there aren't any cases I really agreed with but this one I absolutely love Bneg.
> 
> Will you be producing many of them?


I will be making them 'on demand' with 3 initial prototypes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> Please tell me you could make one a 90° rotated mobo and have it e-atx compatible. It would be like a mini TJ-07


Im looking to something for my SR2 so im sure we can come up with something.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, when it comes time to get some of these made, I want in.
Click to expand...

]
Michalius,of course man!


----------



## ajs89

my new setup


----------



## toxic11b

Hello,

Wanted to share some pics of my FT02. Its old and my first build so dont laugh to much








Also here is a link to it on EVGA MOD Rigs. Please feel free to leave a comment .

http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=29956









Now that I sit and look at this pic ..... Tons of things I would redo but im soon to be in the market for a Caselabs M8 and a S5 " When its released " lol


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Better?


looks like Bitfenix's new Phenom M


----------



## Beakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toxic11b*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Wanted to share some pics of my FT02. Its old and my first build so dont laugh to much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also here is a link to it on EVGA MOD Rigs. Please feel free to leave a comment .
> 
> http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=29956
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I sit and look at this pic ..... Tons of things I would redo but im soon to be in the market for a Caselabs M8 and a S5 " When its released " lol


What's there to laugh about? that looks AMAZING







+rep!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better?
> 
> 
> 
> looks like Bitfenix's new Phenom M
Click to expand...

Mine was first.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Mine was first.


Correct. The bitfenix looks cheap. Not like Bnegs mighty fine case!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Correct. The bitfenix looks cheap. Not like Bnegs mighty fine case!


What exactly looks cheap about the bitfenix?

I'm quite impressed with bitfenix new lineup of cases. Most of them look quite interesting and aesthetically pleasing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Correct. The bitfenix looks cheap. Not like Bnegs mighty fine case!
> 
> 
> 
> What exactly looks cheap about the bitfenix?
> 
> I'm quite impressed with bitfenix new lineup of cases. Most of them look quite interesting and aesthetically pleasing.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

They are making a real effort with this latest range,seems the popularity of the Prodigy has given them a better insight into what users want.
Not sure if that mATX prodigy is viable for watercoolers tho,seems really tight.


----------



## MetallicAcid

I'm sorry, I wasn't meaning the latest or upcoming range. Before the prodigy, I didn't think that bitfenix was good quality. Maybe I was wrong. I just thought the linked case looked too plastic.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I'm sorry, I wasn't meaning the latest or upcoming range. Before the prodigy, I didn't think that bitfenix was good quality. Maybe I was wrong. I just thought the linked case looked too plastic.


I love Bneg's case but... isn't that going to be made from plastic or plexi or something of that sort as well?

The prodigy is not of any higher quality than any of their other cases.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I'm sorry, I wasn't meaning the latest or upcoming range. Before the prodigy, I didn't think that bitfenix was good quality. Maybe I was wrong. I just thought the linked case looked too plastic.
> 
> 
> 
> I love Bneg's case but... isn't that going to be made from plastic or plexi or something of that sort as well?
> 
> The prodigy is not of any higher quality than any of their other cases.
Click to expand...

No. 5mm Aluminium,not plastic.

There is a thread in my sig


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> looks like Bitfenix's new Phenom M
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine was first.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i bet that in the next or some after renders you will get secret offerings from XXX Case company to buy the design from you, Because it looks fantastic.


Awesome foreshadowing







(only that they just stole the idea and made it slightly worse)


----------



## Hand_Grenade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Mine was first.


I actually love the styling of your case over the Bitfenix case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toxic11b*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Wanted to share some pics of my FT02. Its old and my first build so dont laugh to much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also here is a link to it on EVGA MOD Rigs. Please feel free to leave a comment .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=29956
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I sit and look at this pic ..... Tons of things I would redo but im soon to be in the market for a Caselabs M8 and a S5 " When its released " lol


Very impressive for a first build


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No. 5mm Aluminium,not plastic.
> 
> There is a thread in my sig


Oh ok will check that out. The glossy finish of the black in the rendered image threw me off.


----------



## armanie55

First WC project. I rocked some CF as I hated the metal look. Grabbing a 3rd GTX 680 just because







Last pic is before the transformation.

Enjoy:thumb:

COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Modded CF
/ CPU I7 2600k 4.7 / 8 G Skill RAM / ASUS WS Rev MB /
/ GTX 680 SLI OC 1,280 / 27'' SAMSUNG /
/ Corsair 1200 PSU / CyberPower CP1500-900 watt UPS/
/ Lamptron FC5 & NZXT Fan Controller /
/ Razer N52te w/Razer Mamba /
/ XSPC Raystorm WB /
/ XSPC 680 WB x2 /
/ XSPC RES w/D5 Vario /
/ XSPC 360 ver.2 w/SP /
/ XSPC EX240 P/P w/SP /


----------



## ToothBear

does anyone happen to have picture of a casemod featuring two or more tube reservoir besides eachother? maybe a little to specific, but i am just playing ing to see how it looks like ''in action''


----------



## armanie55

BTW Jack Stand.. best purchase eva! keeps my cards nice and straight.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> does anyone happen to have picture of a casemod featuring two or more tube reservoir besides eachother? maybe a little to specific, but i am just playing ing to see how it looks like ''in action''


http://www.overclock.net/t/1312335/build-log-smokey-green-giant-enermax-fulmo-gt-titan-sli



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Ok so here is the latest full update:
> 
> I basically finally got all the parts finished that I've been working on. I ran into an issue trying to get the res' mounted well. So I decided to build a mount to keep them stable. Then I thought, you know what would look pretty cool? I'll stick my SSD's behind them! It turned out pretty well if I do say so myself. Then I got it all cleaned off again and started my (hopefully) final installation. I have to say I am soo happy with the way it is all looking. I also finished the front panel for the mid plate which I'm pretty happy with as well.
> 
> I still need to finish many things off, the rivets need painted, I need to get some molding for the holes. I should have the rads and fans installed soon at which point I will be able to see just how I need to route the tubing. And of course sleeving...the list goes on! Getting there though and I'm very excited!


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better?


----------



## ToothBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1312335/build-log-smokey-green-giant-enermax-fulmo-gt-titan-sli


exactly what i was thinking of! looks good, if anyone can think of more reservoir arrangements like this, i would like to know.


----------



## lowfat

Frosted my reservoir.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Frosted my reservoir.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: frosty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL[








































now i need another dose of pics


----------



## mattcube64

My first build is sloooowly getting there. Starting to begin to see the final product. Waiting for Primochill to release their rigid acrylic fittings next week before continuing...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> does anyone happen to have picture of a casemod featuring two or more tube reservoir besides eachother? maybe a little to specific, but i am just playing ing to see how it looks like ''in action''


One of the best I have seen is;
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Stealthres filled
> 
> 
> Both Stealthres' filled


I think the colour just works so well.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> exactly what i was thinking of! looks good, if anyone can think of more reservoir arrangements like this, i would like to know.


im planing on dual res im my pc with a red and a blue bitspower full clere version 250ml standing side by side in the PROT07YPE-OCN if i can ^^


----------



## derickwm

Going to be a tight to put 250s in B-Neg's case...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Going to be a tight to put 250s in B-Neg's case...




Thats a 250 res,you could mount it on D plugs and have a top fill port in the roof......or use the very handy sideports on an EK multioption

Definitely no dual loop side by side res action tho.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> does anyone happen to have picture of a casemod featuring two or more tube reservoir besides eachother? maybe a little to specific, but i am just playing ing to see how it looks like ''in action''


The main reason I decided to use the 2 res's is so it act as an airlock that wont allow any air bubbles to reenter the loop

http://s25.photobucket.com/user/spritzen/media/20121103_181658.jpg.html


----------



## XKaan

^ Damn dude....nice work!

Would you mind sharing what black plexi you used for the encasement on the right side?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> The main reason I decided to use the 2 res's is so it act as an airlock that wont allow any air bubbles to reenter the loop
> 
> http://s25.photobucket.com/user/spritzen/media/20121103_181658.jpg.html


----------



## Mycelus

Bitspowers res'?


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> They are making a real effort with this latest range,seems the popularity of the Prodigy has given them a better insight into what users want.
> Not sure if that mATX prodigy is viable for watercoolers tho,seems really tight.


The mATX prodigy is silly. They figured out the Prodigy was a waste of space and yet after switching to mATX they still failed at utilizing its space well. They should have learned from Prodigious.

Of course it's just a prototype (no pun intended).


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> exactly what i was thinking of! looks good, if anyone can think of more reservoir arrangements like this, i would like to know.


I think this one looks awesome.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> I think this one looks awesome.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ToothBear

thanks for helping me out guys! that last picture was exactly what i was looking for.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> The main reason I decided to use the 2 res's is so it act as an airlock that wont allow any air bubbles to reenter the loop
> 
> http://s25.photobucket.com/user/spritzen/media/20121103_181658.jpg.html


That sir is one nice build... Really nice work with the Dual Res


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a 250 res,you could mount it on D plugs and have a top fill port in the roof......or use the very handy sideports on an EK multioption
> 
> Definitely no dual loop side by side res action tho.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> I think this one looks awesome.


Interesting build. I like the mix of tubing.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> I think this one looks awesome.


is that plexiglass at the bottom? Where can I buy something like that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

SSD mount done....but out of date already,the plan now is to use CF plates and stack them using standoff's,getting 3-4 SSD's in the footprint of one.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SSD mount done....but out of date already,the plan now is to use CF plates and stack them using standoff's,getting 3-4 SSD's in the footprint of one.


when this will be out for sale? this case looks great B it really does. Good work


----------



## TomahawkT10

Anyone know if you can take the logo off this res easily and it looks clean etc? Anyone tried it?


----------



## GEARjmr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomahawkT10*
> 
> Anyone know if you can take the logo off this res easily and it looks clean etc? Anyone tried it?


I have 2 of these(outside and inside pump mount) and the faceplate logo is raised on both(not paint)...looks like you'd have to grind 'em down with a dremel and repaint the surface.


----------



## longroadtrip

Little bit of tweaking and a couple small bullet list items..but the monsterITX is almost done...


----------



## Nomad692000

@longroadtrip, That looks sweet. Very nice


----------



## GEARjmr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Little bit of tweaking and a couple small bullet list items..but the monsterITX is almost done...


Lookin' damn sweet there lrt!!


----------



## longroadtrip

Thanks guys...still have to get the new SSD, finish the lighting, and a couple small tweaks...but she's up and running now...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Thanks guys...still have to get the new SSD, finish the lighting, and a couple small tweaks...but she's up and running now...


Do you have a "Monsta" rad inside? If yes, that's one helluva fit and proper build name


----------



## Aftermath2006

new pics of my build update case mod and water cooling redo


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Little bit of tweaking and a couple small bullet list items..but the monsterITX is almost done...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks like it could really use one of them new ROG mITX boards.









Also hope you are getting a black or black/red SSD. The blue really throws things off.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do you have a "Monsta" rad inside? If yes, that's one helluva fit and proper build name


Dual XT45 240 rads...monsterITX because it's big and weighs about 70 pounds...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> That looks like it could really use one of them new ROG mITX boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also hope you are getting a black or black/red SSD. The blue really throws things off.


Yeah...the new SSDs will be here next week...I wanted to start getting the AQ5 programmed, so I threw an old spare SSD in to get it fired up...









Saw that new Asus board this week...really sharp, but I don't know that I'll be doing much with Haswell yet...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do you have a "Monsta" rad inside? If yes, that's one helluva fit and proper build name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dual XT45 240 rads...monsterITX because it's big and weighs about 70 pounds...
Click to expand...

Really, ? My old Custom MM with three Monsta 480mm rads,quad gpus, and 28 fans was ~75lbs. Bust out the bathroom scale. I say with the gear you have in there 30-50lbs.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Really, ? My old Custom MM with three Monsta 480mm rads,quad gpus, and 28 fans was ~75lbs. Bust out the bathroom scale. I say with the gear you have in there 30-50lbs.


You're right...I'm used to much lighter systems...came in at 43.8 pounds...


----------



## GEARjmr

30,50,70,100lbs...don't matter...heavy little sucker...lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Really, ? My old Custom MM with three Monsta 480mm rads,quad gpus, and 28 fans was ~75lbs. Bust out the bathroom scale. I say with the gear you have in there 30-50lbs.
> 
> 
> 
> You're right...I'm used to much lighter systems...came in at 43.8 pounds...
Click to expand...

Hows the stinger? evga z77 were very problematic for me (ftw). I really should do a sfc pc for the missus.


----------



## longroadtrip

I think I am one of the only people in the world besides Jacob at EVGA who like this board...







I've had zero issues with mine, but I don't OC my RAM much either (seems that is where most of the issues originate.) I have the latest BIOS revision and it seems pretty stable to me.


----------



## TSXmike




----------



## sdcalihusker

My contribution to the thread:


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> You're right...I'm used to much lighter systems...came in at *43.8 pounds*...


.

WOW !! and that case starts out empty at 9.5 lbs !! wow, that's a lotta weight for an aluminum 15" by 15" by 10" case. WOW !


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Hey guys... I'm about to "re-complete" my re-build...







I need some advice about loop order and pump capacity. First a diagram to help with the discussion:
CaseLabs M8+Pedestal


Component List:
(2) Alphacool UT60's (in pedestal)
Alphacool XT45 (in PSU side)
XSPC Raystorm CPU block
MPS MVE Full MB block
(2) XSPC Razor 7970 blocks
MCP35X pump
250ml Reservoir

So... proposed loop order and pump placements:
VERSION ONE
RES->PUMP (in CPU floor)->GPU->GPU->CPU->MB->XT45->UT60->UT60->RES
-or-
VERSION TWO
RES->PUMP (in Pedestal)->XT45->CPU->MB->GPU->GPU->UT60->UT60->RES

Version one is easiest and results in mostly straight runs - but the PUMP to GPU#2 run would be in the case and above the light panel I'm putting in (so not as attractive on the CPU side). Version Two would be the most aesthetically pleasing on the CPU side... but would have 3 passes through the light panel to achieve this and would put my pump in a location that would require completely dismantling my case if it failed and required repair/replacement. I guess a third option would be to have the pump in the PSU side feeding the XT45 - but that would require multiple curved fittings for feeding the pump... and in both the listed configurations it would be a straight run or nearly straight.

The second question is with the addition of a third rad (which shouldn't make much difference) and a fullcover MB block (which might) is one MCP35X going to be cutting it too close and a second 35X and dual top would be a worthwhile addition. I really don't think it will be too bad, but I have no idea about the MPS block as I can't really find much information - almost no one is using one that I can find.

Thanks for the input!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Hey guys... I'm about to "re-complete" my re-build...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need some advice about loop order and pump capacity. First a diagram to help with the discussion:
> CaseLabs M8+Pedestal
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Component List:
> (2) Alphacool UT60's (in pedestal)
> Alphacool XT45 (in PSU side)
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block
> MPS MVE Full MB block
> (2) XSPC Razor 7970 blocks
> MCP35X pump
> 250ml Reservoir
> 
> So... proposed loop order and pump placements:
> VERSION ONE
> RES->PUMP (in CPU floor)->GPU->GPU->CPU->MB->XT45->UT60->UT60->RES
> -or-
> VERSION TWO
> RES->PUMP (in Pedestal)->XT45->CPU->MB->GPU->GPU->UT60->UT60->RES
> 
> Version one is easiest and results in mostly straight runs - but the PUMP to GPU#2 run would be in the case and above the light panel I'm putting in (so not as attractive on the CPU side). Version Two would be the most aesthetically pleasing on the CPU side... but would have 3 passes through the light panel to achieve this and would put my pump in a location that would require completely dismantling my case if it failed and required repair/replacement. I guess a third option would be to have the pump in the PSU side feeding the XT45 - but that would require multiple curved fittings for feeding the pump... and in both the listed configurations it would be a straight run or nearly straight.
> 
> The second question is with the addition of a third rad (which shouldn't make much difference) and a fullcover MB block (which might) is one MCP35X going to be cutting it too close and a second 35X and dual top would be a worthwhile addition. I really don't think it will be too bad, but I have no idea about the MPS block as I can't really find much information - almost no one is using one that I can find.
> 
> Thanks for the input!


I'm always a sucker for duals, but redundancy is a good thing, and for the same flow rate, they can run slower than a single, which is usually quieter.

For a dual 35X setup, you might want to give the Watercool acrylic top a look, as it looks too good to want to hide it.



Darlene


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm always a sucker for duals, but redundancy is a good thing, and for the same flow rate, they can run slower than a single, which is usually quieter.
> For a dual 35X setup, you might want to give the Watercool acrylic top a look, as it looks too good to want to hide it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


+1 Thanks for that suggestion.... I didn't even know that top was available! Now I have even more to think about... it does look really nice. I had considered the XSPC clear acrylic dual top but had pretty much settled on just doing the MCP35X2 top + sink/stand instead. Although realistically they're all about the same cost and the clear tops definitely look nicer!







So do you think I actually _need_ more than a single pump can provide, or it that just for insurance/headroom mostly in your opinion?


----------



## PinzaC55

After looking at the last couple of pages on this thread "NEED............MORE..................UPGRADES!"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Hey guys... I'm about to "re-complete" my re-build...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need some advice about loop order and pump capacity. First a diagram to help with the discussion:
> CaseLabs M8+Pedestal
> 
> Thanks for the input!


Loop order makes no difference.
Pumps are best in series.
Darlene is right about dual pumps,redundancy is to be sought after.

However,the stock 35X top is the best one for it,no need for the HK top.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

double post.
delete


----------



## Ash2097

Just noticed these white bits in my reservior (using red pastel) anyone know what they are? The fluid is around 3 weeks old.

I was using Mayhems UV Blue in the system when I first made the loop a few months back (rads were flushed at time of building) since then I switched to Pastel Red but I did flush the hole system with Di-ionised water before using the Pastel as recommended. I am using part XSPC tubing (one 40cm run) and the rest is Primochill Primoflex Advanced.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Little bit of tweaking and a couple small bullet list items..but the monsterITX is almost done...


From the sleeved cables, to the way you routed you're tubes and the HDD and SDD mount, looks really good. Nice work.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> new pics of my build update case mod and water cooling redo
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like how good it looks with the QD's, super clean.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> From the sleeved cables, to the way you routed you're tubes and the HDD and SDD mount, looks really good. Nice work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how good it looks with the QD's, super clean.


Thanks!


----------



## Jeemil89

Rig updated.

Still gonna paint the noctua fans black and set up some lightning. Suggestions on lightning color?


----------



## SortOfGrim

I noticed a lot of bubbles from the Swiftech Micro-Res v2 getting sucked to the pump when using it on full speed. What if I added that round sponge?


----------



## sebar

How long have you had the system filled? After a few days all of the bubbles should be gone.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> I noticed a lot of bubbles from the Swiftech Micro-Res v2 getting sucked to the pump when using it on full speed. What if I added that round sponge?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> How long have you had the system filled? After a few days all of the bubbles should be gone.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

The return into the res is so close to the intake for the pump because the res is so small, so even if running it for a few days the system will never properly bleed. You would want to add that sponge as an anti cyclone.


----------



## Chomuco

new rig !!









http://foros.toxico-pc.com/showthread.php?62271-WC-Silverstone-TJ07-Pipe-Fusion&p=924825&viewfull=1#post924825


----------



## PedroC1999

Lovely work with the dual res, any pictures with liquid?


----------



## PCModderMike

That's what I'm wondering...really want to see it filled. Very nice though.


----------



## fnyk

this is the staid that my cpu is in right new
its not done i know thay and im working on it when i have time for it
cant wait to i get it done


----------



## Chomuco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Lovely work with the dual res, any pictures with liquid?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's what I'm wondering...really want to see it filled. Very nice though.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> new pics of my build update case mod and water cooling redo


Did you have trouble installing the backplate? It was a pain in the ass for me.


----------



## Svobey

ehe one on the left

dan


----------



## B NEGATIVE

SSD mounts changed....


----------



## Inglewood78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*


There are acrylic tubes inside the top of your reservoir. What are those for and what do I need to get to for those? Crystal links and the appropriate hardware?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inglewood78*
> 
> There are acrylic tubes inside the top of your reservoir. What are those for and what do I need to get to for those? Crystal links and the appropriate hardware?


Tubing inside the res its to keep the water flow smooth. if they werent there the water would just splash down from the top inlets. Most reservoirs come with them I think. Or you can buy as an accessory


----------



## Inglewood78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Tubing inside the res its to keep the water flow smooth. if they werent there the water would just splash down from the top inlets. Most reservoirs come with them I think. Or you can buy as an accessory


I'm planning on a Primochill CRT and I don't think it comes with one. What do you think I'll need? A passthrough and a crystal link?


----------



## Chomuco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inglewood78*
> 
> There are acrylic tubes inside the top of your reservoir. What are those for and what do I need to get to for those? Crystal links and the appropriate hardware?


----------



## Tarnix

^nice.

OKAY. So Step 1: Completed.



Killcoil and monsoon fittings to follow in 30 days. T_T


----------



## skyn3t

sky test bench







I shared this with my fellows members and I want to share it here too.








Test bench made from old oval table. I could not wait till my RiG get's ready to setup my loop.

3570k lapped 4.7MHz
GTX 780 Hydro's sli
RX360 rad
Rx240 rad
Ek res
MCP350 pump
and bench it like a crazy. the rest of the hardware is in my sig


----------



## hammerforged

Debating between two serial res. pump combos:

Koolance RP-452X2 Dual 5.25" Reservoir Rev 2.0



and

XSPC Twin D5 Dual 5.25" Bay Clear Reservoir - Dual Laing D5



Anyone have any thought or suggestion on either of these? Thanks!


----------



## sakerfalcon

I've heard some stories of the XSPC bay res cracking over time and leaking, so I'd go with the Koolance one to be safe.


----------



## wermad

I here a lot of negatives on the Koolance reservoirs. I would skip them tbh. XSPC one is solid.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I here a lot of negatives on the Koolance reservoirs. I would skip them tbh. XSPC one is solid.


The only thing negative I have heard about them is peoples trouble bleeding them.

Have pretty much heard that about every bay res though I never had a problem doing that myself.

I'd go with the koolance personally. Looks 100x cooler and with water cooling looks are everything.


----------



## hammerforged

Thanks for the reply's. Yeah I've certainly seen negatives about both. So thats what is making the decision that much harder









I'm pretty sure running a dual pump top such as the EK or Bitspower option would be better but they require a few more connections in the loop and I would like to minimize those.


----------



## wermad

My D5 XSPC reservoir, never had a leak but I ended up selling it since the D5 was noisy for my taste.


----------



## cafu02

That is sweet looking, Good work man


----------



## cafu02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> sky test bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shared this with my fellows members and I want to share it here too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test bench made from old oval table. I could not wait till my RiG get's ready to setup my loop.
> 
> 3570k lapped 4.7MHz
> GTX 780 Hydro's sli
> RX360 rad
> Rx240 rad
> Ek res
> MCP350 pump
> and bench it like a crazy. the rest of the hardware is in my sig


That is sweet looking, Good work man


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cafu02*
> 
> That is sweet looking, Good work man


I decide to make this test bench because i could no wait any longer to play with my cards. I'm still waiting for some new parts to arrive so my MOD still going to take some time so til there i a bit to play at least. by the way thank you.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I was choosing between the XSPC and the Koolance, except for the single bay versions. I ended up going with Koolance because it just looked so much cooler


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Now finally available in a color I can actually get behind. Worth the wait IMO...


----------



## wermad

^^^Sweet! Blew all my money on my new gpu setup so this will have to wait


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Now finally available in a color I can actually get behind. Worth the wait IMO...


yep the new black one's realy looks alot better then those ther was before


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> yep the new black one's realy looks alot better then those ther was before


I agree. I've always felt that their QDCs were superior to the competing manufacturers, but having to have silver QDCs in an all black-fittings build wasn't a compromise I was willing to make just to eliminate having to drain my system to get my MB out for hardware changes... now I can have the best of both worlds.


----------



## Killa Cam

i wish they printed the koolance brand name in white in their regular compression fittings. good stuff


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Now finally available in a color I can actually get behind. Worth the wait IMO...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love me some QD's.







These are looking really sleek!


----------



## thestache

My test bench is getting there.


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> I've heard some stories of the XSPC bay res cracking over time and leaking, so I'd go with the Koolance one to be safe.


Thats the all black POM one that the top seperates from the side.


----------



## illuz

Finally joined the watercooling club! I know it's badly done, but it works. I'll tidy it all up at a later time.

4.9GHz at about v1.47, temps hit 89 max on core P95, the rest about 70.


----------



## tiborrr12

1.47V? Degradation will kick in very soon. I'd run no more than 1.35V for 24/7 on Ivy Bridge CPUs.


----------



## Justinator




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> My test bench is getting there.


Thick tube ftw








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally joined the watercooling club! I know it's badly done, but it works. I'll tidy it all up at a later time.
> 
> 4.9GHz at about v1.47, temps hit 89 max on core P95, the rest about 70.


Nice







. Try to position the pump closer to the reservoir (use some velcro to make it stick). Should tidy up that part.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justinator*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you want to, move the reservoir down a few slots. Will make the tube runs a bit more short and clean. Like how the XTX is mounted w/ the xspc screws There's plenty of how-to for the 800/700D bottom 240mm radiator mod. I've done it a few times with different rads (240/360/480).


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally joined the watercooling club! I know it's badly done, but it works. I'll tidy it all up at a later time.
> 
> 4.9GHz at about v1.47, temps hit 89 max on core P95, the rest about 70.


I don't think it looks that bad. If you want a cleaner tubing run I would change the order to res>pump>cpu>rad>res. I really shouldn't affect temps at all since water temp equalizes over time. That way you won't have the cpu in and out overlapping each other


----------



## illuz

I plan on moving the rad from horizontal to vertical and moving the res and pump to the right of the graphics cards where the hdd holder is now.
The pump doesn't fit anywhere else unfortunately, it's all a tight fit at the minute hah. I'll sort it when I can afford more tubing but for now I'm happy to have removed that stock cooler hahaha


----------



## robcowboy73

out standing is that rig a transformer or wot. Thank's for the post it has inspired me to go WC


----------



## Justinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thick tube ftw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Try to position the pump closer to the reservoir (use some velcro to make it stick). Should tidy up that part.
> If you want to, move the reservoir down a few slots. Will make the tube runs a bit more short and clean. Like how the XTX is mounted w/ the xspc screws There's plenty of how-to for the 800/700D bottom 240mm radiator mod. I've done it a few times with different rads (240/360/480).


Thanks







I had originally planned to fit the res lower, but I read somewhere that if you don't install the res as high as possible it can promote air bubbles. What do you think? I'd much prefer to fit it lower tbh.


----------



## DatNetherbane

I managed to pick some of these up for £0.99 on overclockers.co.uk a little while ago. I've finally got around to using them in my budget wc build xD


All together it cost me ~£170 for the watercooling. Everything was bought used except for the tubing and the fittings (wouldn't buy those used!) Breakdown = £40 on all three rads (120mm, 240mm and 120mm monsta), £60 on gpu block, £15 for the cpu block, £25 on paint, £20 on fittings and £10 on tubing and de-ionised water and £20 for the reservoir and pump.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justinator*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had originally planned to fit the res lower, but I read somewhere that if you don't install the res as high as possible it can promote air bubbles. What do you think? I'd much prefer to fit it lower tbh.


Sounds like a plan









Btw:




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatNetherbane*
> 
> 
> I managed to pick some of these up for £0.99 on overclockers.co.uk a little while ago. I've finally got around to using them in my budget wc build xD
> 
> 
> All together it cost me ~£170 for the watercooling. Everything was bought used except for the tubing and the fittings (wouldn't buy those used!) Breakdown = £40 on all three rads (120mm, 240mm and 120mm monsta), £60 on gpu block, £15 for the cpu block, £25 on paint, £20 on fittings and £10 on tubing and de-ionised water and £20 for the reservoir and pump.


Nice white 690


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Debating between two serial res. pump combos:
> 
> Koolance RP-452X2 Dual 5.25" Reservoir Rev 2.0
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and
> 
> XSPC Twin D5 Dual 5.25" Bay Clear Reservoir - Dual Laing D5
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any thought or suggestion on either of these? Thanks!


I went from a Monsoon to the Koolance and this will stay with me for a while. Bleeding was not too bad and it looks great. Have dual VPP655's on it and no issues at all.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> I went from a Monsoon to the Koolance and this will stay with me for a while. Bleeding was not too bad and it looks great. Have dual VPP655's on it and no issues at all.
> 
> dual vpp655's ftw ^^
> im useing two vpp655's singen edition in a ek d5 dual pump top ^^


----------



## macandy13

Finally got around to updating the loop and added a few things. I do need to find a better fluid though











EDIT: Apologies for the poor picture quality


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Doors done to a more pleasing design,the vent for the PSU still needs to be done tho.
The aim is to put a gasket on the door that fits up to the PSU to create an airtight seal so the PSU only draws externally rather than swallowing all the air from the 92mm above. Mesh over the bottom opening,more like a woven mesh than a hole type...like high end speaker covers. Should make a good dust filter.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> I went from a Monsoon to the Koolance and this will stay with me for a while. Bleeding was not too bad and it looks great. Have dual VPP655's on it and no issues at all.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the reply. Yeah the Koolance ones seems like the better option at the moment. The XSPC one seems to be loud after researching some more.


----------



## Mycelus

How're the 780 Hydro Coppers treating ya?


----------



## wermad

Still waiting for one more gpu


----------



## Tarnix

Noob question, sorry if wrong thread...
Is my rad supposed to be 100% filled with water? I've been shaking it for the past 15min and the bubbles won't completely disappear. I also hear very faint water splotch sounds like it does when a bottle isn't totally filled... There's no sign of leaking, and my res is full of water.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Noob question, sorry if wrong thread...
> Is my rad supposed to be 100% filled with water? I've been shaking it for the past 15min and the bubbles won't completely disappear. I also hear very faint water splotch sounds like it does when a bottle isn't totally filled... There's no sign of leaking, and my res is full of water.


Yup,thats air in the rad,carry on bleeding it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Noob question, sorry if wrong thread...
> Is my rad supposed to be 100% filled with water? I've been shaking it for the past 15min and the bubbles won't completely disappear. I also hear very faint water splotch sounds like it does when a bottle isn't totally filled... There's no sign of leaking, and my res is full of water.


Try tilting it (make your loop is closed and everything is secured in place) or rock it back and forth. if you hear bubbles escaping, that's the tilt your looking for to bleed the air. Give it a day and most of it will purge out on its own.


----------



## macandy13

Still waiting on Overclockers.co.uk getting the EVGA 780 SC ACX cards in









Had two ordered for near 2 weeks now. Hope they get them in sometime soon


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Noob question, sorry if wrong thread...
> Is my rad supposed to be 100% filled with water? I've been shaking it for the past 15min and the bubbles won't completely disappear. I also hear very faint water splotch sounds like it does when a bottle isn't totally filled... There's no sign of leaking, and my res is full of water.


it dont have to be 100% but it performance on maximum when it is on 100% full


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still waiting for one more gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











3x780>2x785 methinks.


----------



## Tarnix

Kay, thanks all. I'll keep on rocking and poking things until it behaves









current state:

Great. I forgot to put the AMD bracket on it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting on Overclockers.co.uk getting the EVGA 780 SC ACX cards in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had two ordered for near 2 weeks now. Hope they get them in sometime soon


I was able to get two orders in that shipped w/in a couple of days. The third is now going two weeks but I have no choice since its already paid and everyone is out of stock. Hopefully it ships next week to arrive at the end of the week.

There's an ACX SC in the market, pm the member if he might ship to the UK








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3x780>2x785 methinks.


I do agree in terms of gpu grunt. And it ended up costing about the same (msrp vs msrp) with just the expensive of the 3rd block and backplate (and bridge).

Most Titan owners were cool but a few owners really bugged them. Its sad since you get crap when you go Titan and also when you leave Titan. Its awesome gpu but I think the 780 will offer me a better experience for what I'm needing.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Thanks for the reply's. Yeah I've certainly seen negatives about both. So thats what is making the decision that much harder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure running a dual pump top such as the EK or Bitspower option would be better but they require a few more connections in the loop and I would like to minimize those.


When people complain about the Koolance being hard to bleed they aren't joking. When I had mine it literally took days to bleed and even then I wasn't 100% convinced it was bleed properly.

Awesome looking unit and built VERY well but for me it was too much of a hassle. Good luck to you whatever you choose


----------



## Michalius

Anyone have any idea of when this is supposed to release?



I need it bad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Anyone have any idea of when this is supposed to release?
> 
> 
> 
> I need it bad.


+1
Not sure exactly what its cooling other than the SB,the VRM section is on the daughterboard.


----------



## Michalius

Not that any of that stuff even really needs to be cooled.

I'm interested in it because it takes an otherwise cluttered looking motherboard and gives you a nice pristine surface.

The aesthetics and layout of ITX boards is definitely the largest downside from a modder's perspective.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3x780>2x785 methinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do agree in terms of gpu grunt. And it ended up costing about the same (msrp vs msrp) with just the expensive of the 3rd block and backplate (and bridge).
> 
> Most Titan owners were cool but a few owners really bugged them. Its sad since you get crap when you go Titan and also when you leave Titan. Its awesome gpu but I think the 780 will offer me a better experience for what I'm needing.
Click to expand...

Right, since the Titan blocks fit the 780's anyway, that makes it even more cost-effective. No question that you'll gain performance over the Titans.
I was considering selling off the 7950's and getting [one] Titan when they came out, but decided against it, the $1000+, less the block, is a lot of dough for what you get.
Must...avoid....looking....at.....780's.........


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I was able to get two orders in that shipped w/in a couple of days. The third is now going two weeks but I have no choice since its already paid and everyone is out of stock. Hopefully it ships next week to arrive at the end of the week.
> 
> There's an ACX SC in the market, pm the member if he might ship to the UK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do agree in terms of gpu grunt. And it ended up costing about the same (msrp vs msrp) with just the expensive of the 3rd block and backplate (and bridge).
> 
> Most Titan owners were cool but a few owners really bugged them. Its sad since you get crap when you go Titan and also when you leave Titan. Its awesome gpu but I think the 780 will offer me a better experience for what I'm needing.


Cheers for the heads up









Just had a little look at the ad, he will only ship it within the US. I think the two I have ordered will do me for the time being until I feel the need for more power









Still need to get blocks and a bridge for the two coming so I'll be looking to get those on or around the 28th


----------



## Seredin

A quick update from my build. (yep, still workin on the GPU cable)


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> 
> A quick update from my build. (yep, still workin on the GPU cable)


Yay, small builds







Looks very clean, good job


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Right, since the Titan blocks fit the 780's anyway, that makes it even more cost-effective. No question that you'll gain performance over the Titans.
> I was considering selling off the 7950's and getting [one] Titan when they came out, but decided against it, the $1000+, less the block, is a lot of dough for what you get.
> Must...avoid....looking....at.....780's.........


Yup, I'm glad 780s use the same Titan blocks. That may have been the deal breaker for the 780s. I could have picked up three 680 4gbs w/ blocks for less (used).

I checked my vram usage and 3gb should be plenty. I really needed the gpu hp rather then the vram so I'm pretty happy w/ the 780s.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Cheers for the heads up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just had a little look at the ad, he will only ship it within the US. I think the two I have ordered will do me for the time being until I feel the need for more power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to get blocks and a bridge for the two coming so I'll be looking to get those on or around the 28th


Shame, but some members don't want to risk it (I guess). I don't have problems shipping stuff like this since I know you guys pay a lot more and could get it cheap from the states.

Well, glad you have your pending orders. Its a mad scramble to get these guys. I'm still waiting for my third which is bugging me after seeing a shiny new block sitting there with no card to go on to







.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Yay, small builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks very clean, good job


Hey thanks! More to come in my build log


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*


Holy acrylic batman


----------



## MNModder

Ok so I got my first tube res and put the out line at the bottom and the return line at the top I started to leak test and stopped because it was late and needed to go to bed the next morning when I went to start the pump it was air locked or what ever you want to call it it would not pump water and had to tip my case all over to get it to pump water again and every time I stop my pump the reservior fills up again and I think air gerts reintroduced into the system. is this an issue with the return being at the topand not constantl being under water and is it a problem? When the pump is on the res is half full but when its off its almost full? am I doing something wrong? This is nowhere my first experience with water cooling but is my first tube reservior any help is appreciated and thanks in advance


----------



## Killa Cam

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






ek reps, have you guys shipped out these waterblocks to u.s. vendors yet? can't wait til ppcs have em in stock


----------



## cafu02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> Ok so I got my first tube res and put the out line at the bottom and the return line at the top I started to leak test and stopped because it was late and needed to go to bed the next morning when I went to start the pump it was air locked or what ever you want to call it it would not pump water and had to tip my case all over to get it to pump water again and every time I stop my pump the reservior fills up again and I think air gerts reintroduced into the system. is this an issue with the return being at the topand not constantl being under water and is it a problem? When the pump is on the res is half full but when its off its almost full? am I doing something wrong? This is nowhere my first experience with water cooling but is my first tube reservior any help is appreciated and thanks in advance


Hey the Res will have more water when the pump is off until the system is completely full. When you turn the system on that water get pumped into your RAD and blocks. So nothing to worry about. Try not to let the pump goes dry. it will fail very quickly.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is the EVGA GTX 780 SC ACX videocard Reference design ?


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the EVGA GTX 780 SC ACX videocard Reference design ?


yes


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the EVGA GTX 780 SC ACX videocard Reference design ?


Yes, reference PCB, custom cooler.

Reference cooler versus custom cooler (ACX) - - - - ( Identical PCBs )


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Anyone have any idea of when this is supposed to release?
> 
> 
> 
> I need it bad.


OMG

10 points to Griffindor !!!!

100 points to Michalius !!!!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> yes


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Yes, reference PCB, custom cooler.
> 
> Reference cooler versus custom cooler (ACX) - - - - ( Identical PCBs )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [spoiler/]


I like the references cooler better but if I can get the evga cooler cheaper il buy it


----------



## Chomuco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> Holy acrylic batman


new ......














god !!









WC = Upgrading....!!


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> new ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> god !!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WC = Upgrading....!!


cot dayum!


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I like the references cooler better but if I can get the evga cooler cheaper il buy it


evga will be releasing the gtx 780 acx cooler @ base clock for $649.99 msrp soon.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> new ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> god !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WC = Upgrading....!!


Amazing build my man! One of the cleanest I have ever seen here on OCN!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> new ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> god !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WC = Upgrading....!!


REDRUM, REDRUM, ..........lol

Impressive build! Uber clean very awesome attention to detail


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> new ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> god !!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WC = Upgrading....!!


This is impressive!!!


----------



## Tarnix

Blargh. Here is some (messy) pics.

After much deserved sleep and some OCD at cleaning all of this, I'll post better pics.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> new ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> god !!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WC = Upgrading....!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is impressive!!!
Click to expand...

I second that statement


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ek reps, have you guys shipped out these waterblocks to u.s. vendors yet? can't wait til ppcs have em in stock


Likely will be going w/ these as well.


----------



## MNModder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by: ME
> 
> Ok so I got my first tube res and put the out line at the bottom and the return line at the top I started to leak test and stopped because it was late and needed to go to bed the next morning when I went to start the pump it was air locked or what ever you want to call it it would not pump water and had to tip my case all over to get it to pump water again and every time I stop my pump the reservior fills up again and I think air gerts reintroduced into the system. is this an issue with the return being at the topand not constantl being under water and is it a problem? When the pump is on the res is half full but when its off its almost full? am I doing something wrong? This is nowhere my first experience with water cooling but is my first tube reservior any help is appreciated and thanks in advance


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cafu02*
> 
> Hey the Res will have more water when the pump is off until the system is completely full. When you turn the system on that water get pumped into your RAD and blocks. So nothing to worry about. Try not to let the pump goes dry. it will fail very quickly.


Thanks for the responce I know not to let the pump run dry and knew where the water goes I was mainly wondering how I can stop the pump from getting air locked in the future ie. when I turn my system on when Im not leak testing as components will overheat







. Also I was wondering if when the pumps off and the air in the res goes back into the rads/loop wont the loop esentially have to be bleeded again since air got back into the system. I would assume that if i moved the return line to the bottom aswell this would aleviate this problem all together?

HELP PLEASE ANYONE









Nice build Chomuco that looks amazing doing the red and black theme and making it feel new and refreshing










just an Image of what im talking about


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ek reps, have you guys shipped out these waterblocks to u.s. vendors yet? can't wait til ppcs have em in stock


That's the Titan block right?


----------



## tiborrr12

That's EK-FC Titan SE, yes: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se-original-csq-nickel.html
EDIT: PPCs latest shipment already has these, yes.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Likely will be going w/ these as well.


csq has gotten a bad rap. i admit that i didn't prefer it, but since ek only made blocks for my ftw 680, i had no choice to to get it. i chose the plexi frosted version as i thought it looked better then the acetal counterpart.

i liked the circles but was indifferent about the frost, but once i got some mayhems pastel and hooked up some white leds on my csq bridge... man oh man. it made me order a csq plexi/nickel supremacy and csq plexi top for my mcp35x. now i understand the vision ek was going for.

when u have only distilled, its rather bland, but once u have colored coolant or dye with white leds giving it a nice contrast, its soo freaking beautiful. the frost gives it a chill effect and enough transparency to marvel at your loop. people can hate csq all they want, but if you haven't tried it yourself, you shouldn't cast such harsh judgement.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> That's the Titan block right?


titan/780
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> That's EK-FC Titan SE, yes: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se-original-csq-nickel.html
> EDIT: PPCs latest shipment already has these, yes.


awesome







. are they any plans for z87 and ivy bridge e motherboard blocks? if so, will you be doing csq blocks for them? it seems you have gotten away from csq plexi for your mobo blocks.


----------



## Ash2097

Anyone got any iea what's going on here: (Fluid is 2-3 weeks old)

Milky Mayhems pastel red in GPU block:



Also not sure if this is air bubbles or mould?



Going to drain and look properly tonight, but any guesses?


----------



## thestache

Finished re-building my waterloop and mods are done.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1390841/build-log-dimastech-watercooled-test-bench-open-case-gtx-titan-ek-clean-blocks-portrait-surround

Yes coolant is green and clashes with the orange. Mayhems Oil Black wasn't in stock but oh well, I'll update that when I get RAM blocks and another radiator and SLI the GTX Titan.







Any tips on how to fill the reservoir? I have a few ideas but haven't tried yet.


----------



## Seredin

I would just unclamp it and mount it vertically while I filled it up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I would just unclamp it and mount it vertically while I filled it up.


This.

My bench needed to be tipped on its side for filling or have the res removed from its clamps.

http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e4/900x900px-LL-e413db09_WP_000123.jpeg

My Scout need to use one of the ports and a filling bottle

http://cdn.overclock.net/0/0b/900x900px-LL-0bdecee9_SDC14188.jpeg

Im at work so having to use a OLD browser with chrome frame


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This.
> 
> My bench needed to be tipped on its side for filling or have the res removed from its clamps.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e4/900x900px-LL-e413db09_WP_000123.jpeg
> 
> My Scout need to use one of the ports and a filling bottle
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/0/0b/900x900px-LL-0bdecee9_SDC14188.jpeg
> 
> 
> 
> Im at work so having to use a OLD browser with chrome frame


moar renders plz and thx


----------



## thestache

Alright thanks guys I'll either tilt it on it's side or unmount it and run it vertically to fill it.


----------



## Shultzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Anyone got any iea what's going on here: (Fluid is 2-3 weeks old)
> 
> Milky Mayhems pastel red in GPU block:
> 
> 
> 
> Also not sure if this is air bubbles or mould?
> 
> 
> 
> Going to drain and look properly tonight, but any guesses?


I also purchased one of these blocks for my gtx 670 ftw and I had the same thing happen to me. It was only in my system for about the same amount of time (2 to 3 weeks) and with mayhem's pastel red. When I went to take my system apart for my gtx 780 I noticed a whitish color but I guess I didn't care since I was getting rid of it. Although now that I know it wasn't just me I would also like to know the cause of this.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Alright, quick question. For the xspc single bay res is there a specific intake and outtake or are the holes either? Thanks!


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Alright, quick question. For the xspc single bay res is there a specific intake and outtake or are the holes either? Thanks!


Is it this reservoir?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Yup thanks!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys just planning out my build which I will be starting soon, had a quick question, I will be using hwlabs gtx240 and gtx360 for my build and was wondering how would those corsair sp120 do compared to ap15s in both noise and performance?

I think the corsair fans would look much better but not going to put them in my build if they are much louder and perform horribly when compared to ap15s


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . are they any plans for z87 and ivy bridge e motherboard blocks? if so, will you be doing csq blocks for them? it seems you have gotten away from csq plexi for your mobo blocks.


For the most popular ones we'll do both, don't worry!


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys just planning out my build which I will be starting soon, had a quick question, I will be using hwlabs gtx240 and gtx360 for my build and was wondering how would those corsair sp120 do compared to ap15s in both noise and performance?
> 
> I think the corsair fans would look much better but not going to put them in my build if they are much louder and perform horribly when compared to ap15s


if noise is a factor, you should check out these vids from martin:

sp-120


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











ap-15


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











can't really say anything about performance as i have no experience with either of those fans or rad. ap-15 is highly regarded here, and the hp sp120 is occupied in a lot of builds as well.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys just planning out my build which I will be starting soon, had a quick question, I will be using hwlabs gtx240 and gtx360 for my build and was wondering how would those corsair sp120 do compared to ap15s in both noise and performance?
> 
> I think the corsair fans would look much better but not going to put them in my build if they are much louder and perform horribly when compared to ap15s


if noise is a factor, you should check out these vids from martin:

sp-120


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











ap-15


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











can't really say anything about performance as i have no experience with either of those fans or rad. ap-15 is highly regarded here, and the hp sp120 is occupied in a lot of builds as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> For the most popular ones we'll do both, don't worry!


cool


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys just planning out my build which I will be starting soon, had a quick question, I will be using hwlabs gtx240 and gtx360 for my build and was wondering how would those corsair sp120 do compared to ap15s in both noise and performance?
> 
> I think the corsair fans would look much better but not going to put them in my build if they are much louder and perform horribly when compared to ap15s


Those corsair fans are horribly loud. Would not recommend them as they defeat the purpose of a quiet water cooled build.

Had them in my Corsair C70 build but couldn't stand them so swapped them for CoolerMaster Excalibur's which are equally as loud and just as good performance wise but also PWM so I have them spinning as slow as possible when the system is idling and then when playing a game they spin up depending on the load.

Any reason why you're going a 54mm rad, just brand preference? Personally I go for the biggest radiator possible (thickness wise) with quiet fans in the 1200-1500RPM range, no louder than 16-20db. The fans I like at the moment are Cougar Vortex HDB PWM. They are 18db at load, have good static pressure for radiators, high CFM and also PWM so I have them close to silent idling and then they ramp up depending on the load. I only have them in push on an XSPC RX360 and that combination is far more efficient that my Corsair C70 build which is louder, has stronger fans and more radiator.

You really don't need high RPM fans or as many on thick radiators and is the best combination in my opinion. Thick and quiet. If you you're not fond of PWM then just go for quiet but high static pressure fans like the Cougar Vortex HDB, Nanoxia Depp Silence, CoolerMaster Sickleflow, Noctua NF-P12.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys just planning out my build which I will be starting soon, had a quick question, I will be using hwlabs gtx240 and gtx360 for my build and was wondering how would those corsair sp120 do compared to ap15s in both noise and performance?
> 
> I think the corsair fans would look much better but not going to put them in my build if they are much louder and perform horribly when compared to ap15s
> 
> 
> 
> Those corsair fans are horribly loud. Would not recommend them as they defeat the purpose of a quiet water cooled build.
> 
> Had them in my Corsair C70 build but couldn't stand them so swapped them for CoolerMaster Excalibur's which are equally as loud and just as good performance wise but also PWM so I have them spinning as slow as possible when the system is idling and then when playing a game they spin up depending on the load.
> 
> Any reason why you're going a 54mm rad, just brand preference? Personally I go for the biggest radiator possible (thickness wise) with quiet fans in the 1200-1500RPM range, no louder than 16-20db. The fans I like at the moment are Cougar Vortex HDB PWM. They are 18db at load, have good static pressure for radiators, high CFM and also PWM so I have them close to silent idling and then they ramp up depending on the load. I only have them in push on an XSPC RX360 and that combination is far more efficient that my Corsair C70 build which is louder, has stronger fans and more radiator.
> 
> You really don't need high RPM fans or as many on thick radiators and is the best combination in my opinion. Thick and quiet. If you you're not fond of PWM then just go for quiet but high static pressure fans like the Cougar Vortex HDB, Nanoxia Depp Silence, CoolerMaster Sickleflow, Noctua NF-P12.
> 
> Don't even know why people use Gentle Typhoons. Low CFM and low static pressure for the noise they generate.
Click to expand...

GT's are simply the best,the SP120s are also very good. I have used both extensively.
GT's are renowned for excellent noise/performance ratio.
Where did you get the low CFM specs from for GT's,that is simply not true,the specs are correct (they are enterprise class fans so lying about specs wont wash) and not over inflated like the CM specs.

Perhaps you should read some proper fan tests......


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys, long time no post. Right now I'm waiting for some goodies to arrive, looking out my window like a guard dog. I'm going to be receiving my Alphacool UT60 280mm radiator, Swiftech MCP655b pump, EK D5 X Pump Top Rev.2, and RASA CPU block. Will post pics after its all installed. Here are my latest pictures. Threw in the beautiful 1500w Maxrevo.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> GT's are simply the best,the SP120s are also very good. I have used both extensively.
> GT's are renowned for excellent noise/performance ratio.
> Where did you get the low CFM specs from for GT's,that is simply not true,the specs are correct (they are enterprise class fans so lying about specs wont wash) and not over inflated like the CM specs.
> 
> Perhaps you should read some proper fan tests......


1850RPM / 0.083A / 28dBA / 57CFM

Those are the official specs are they not?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Those corsair fans are horribly loud. Would not recommend them as they defeat the purpose of a quiet water cooled build.
> 
> Had them in my Corsair C70 build but couldn't stand them so swapped them for CoolerMaster Excalibur's which are equally as loud and just as good performance wise but also PWM so I have them spinning as slow as possible when the system is idling and then when playing a game they spin up depending on the load.
> 
> Any reason why you're going a 54mm rad, just brand preference? Personally I go for the biggest radiator possible (thickness wise) with quiet fans in the 1200-1500RPM range, no louder than 16-20db. The fans I like at the moment are Cougar Vortex HDB PWM. They are 18db at load, have good static pressure for radiators, high CFM and also PWM so I have them close to silent idling and then they ramp up depending on the load. I only have them in push on an XSPC RX360 and that combination is far more efficient that my Corsair C70 build which is louder, has stronger fans and more radiator.
> 
> You really don't need high RPM fans or as many on thick radiators and is the best combination in my opinion. Thick and quiet. If you you're not fond of PWM then just go for quiet but high static pressure fans like the Cougar Vortex HDB, Nanoxia Depp Silence, CoolerMaster Sickleflow, Noctua NF-P12.
> 
> Don't even know why people use Gentle Typhoons. Low CFM and low static pressure for the noise they generate.


Well I'm getting the new Corsair Carbide Air 540 (already ordered) and I'm going with 54mm for clearance reasons and the fact I already have the GTX240 and would prefer to have matching brands so that's why I'm picking up the GTX360, I already have 4 ap15s on my 240rad in my current RV03, used to have another 4 on the stealth GT240 I had, I thought they perform well, and there very quite imo, and OCN was recommending them saying they have amazing static pressure compared to others. Only reason I was asking about the Corsairs was because of there looks!

So those other fans your listed are better then the ap15s and run at the same sound levels?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> GT's are simply the best,the SP120s are also very good. I have used both extensively.
> GT's are renowned for excellent noise/performance ratio.
> Where did you get the low CFM specs from for GT's,that is simply not true,the specs are correct (they are enterprise class fans so lying about specs wont wash) and not over inflated like the CM specs.
> 
> Perhaps you should read some proper fan tests......
> 
> 
> 
> 1850RPM / 0.083A / 28dBA / 57CFM
> 
> Those are the official specs are they not?
Click to expand...

Yes, and they are correct,unlike the CM specs which are wildly over specced. So much so that they are considered a bit of an industry joke.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1389355/fan-testing-round-12-begins-thanks-to-cpachris-and-prymus-nb-e-loop-sp120-nf-f12-cougar-vortex-pwm-vortex-red-led-pirahna-ap-45/0_20


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes, and they are correct,unlike the CM specs which are wildly over specced. So much so that they are considered a bit of an industry joke.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1389355/fan-testing-round-12-begins-thanks-to-cpachris-and-prymus-nb-e-loop-sp120-nf-f12-cougar-vortex-pwm-vortex-red-led-pirahna-ap-45/0_20


Guess you can't argue with that even though it's left me rather confused.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes, and they are correct,unlike the CM specs which are wildly over specced. So much so that they are considered a bit of an industry joke.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1389355/fan-testing-round-12-begins-thanks-to-cpachris-and-prymus-nb-e-loop-sp120-nf-f12-cougar-vortex-pwm-vortex-red-led-pirahna-ap-45/0_20
> 
> 
> 
> Guess you can't argue with that even though it's left me rather confused.
Click to expand...

The problem you face ,as with all WC gear, is that its horses for courses,what works with one may not work for all. If your fans are working for you then its not a problem to worry about.

Unfortunately,the manu's muddy the waters with truths,half truths and outright lies.
The rule of thumb is that enterprise class fans,Nidec,Denki etc are reliable specs as they are for the server industry.
Everything else take with a pinch of salt.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The problem you face ,as with all WC gear, is that its horses for courses,what works with one may not work for all. If your fans are working for you then its not a problem to worry about.
> 
> Unfortunately,the manu's muddy the waters with truths,half truths and outright lies.
> The rule of thumb is that enterprise class fans,Nidec,Denki etc are reliable specs as they are for the server industry.
> Everything else take with a pinch of salt.


That's fair enough but I would swear that my Cougar HDB PWMs at load were significantly quieter than the Corsair SP120s but according to that video the Cougars and Corsairs are practically the same in noise output. Am I missing something here?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The problem you face ,as with all WC gear, is that its horses for courses,what works with one may not work for all. If your fans are working for you then its not a problem to worry about.
> 
> Unfortunately,the manu's muddy the waters with truths,half truths and outright lies.
> The rule of thumb is that enterprise class fans,Nidec,Denki etc are reliable specs as they are for the server industry.
> Everything else take with a pinch of salt.
> 
> 
> 
> That's fair enough but I would swear that my Cougar HDB PWMs at load were significantly quieter than the Corsair SP120s but according to that video the Cougars and Corsairs are practically the same in noise output. Am I missing something here?
Click to expand...

What you have here is a case of pure numbers v perception. The noise pitch that the SP's produce might be distinct to you while the Cougars are slightly different therefore not as noticeable.
There are endless threads on OCN about this.....pumps have a similar issue too.


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> new ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> god !!


beautiful work









I would explain how to make a middleplate? What do you use to cut and pierce?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What you have here is a case of pure numbers v perception. The noise pitch that the SP's produce might be distinct to you while the Cougars are slightly different therefore not as noticeable.
> There are endless threads on OCN about this.....pumps have a similar issue too.


That's very interesting. Didn't think about that, would make sense.


----------



## MetallicAcid

So guys, I have made an order today for some parts. What do you think?





Some items I already own..



Thank you to B negative for the acrylic pipe bending guide. I will be using it as reference when bending my pipes


----------



## Seredin

Acrylic hype!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> So guys, I have made an order today for some parts. What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some items I already own..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you to B negative for the acrylic pipe bending guide. I will be using it as reference when bending my pipes


My pleasure.

Post pics in the bending guide when you are done?


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> new ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> god !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WC = Upgrading....!!


damn that looks good


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My pleasure.
> 
> Post pics in the bending guide when you are done?


That goes without saying mate!


----------



## Janac

EK Supreme LTX on Tahiti LE ? Sounds wrong?


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> My last 5 builds in 6 month's


What are those metal things that curve along with the tubing?!


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> What are those metal things that curve along with the tubing?!


Elder dragon scales.


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> if noise is a factor, you should check out these vids from martin:
> 
> sp-120
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ap-15
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't really say anything about performance as i have no experience with either of those fans or rad. ap-15 is highly regarded here, and the hp sp120 is occupied in a lot of builds as well.


As you can barely hear in the video for it, the SP-120's have a very low volume "rumble" to them. I have six of the SP-120 PE's in my rig and all six produce this rumble from 5v all the way up to 12v (where it is drowned out by the sound of air rushing through). Where I have my computer set up is quiet enough that even with all the fans set to 5v, the rumble from them is loud enough to disturb me if I don't have any other ambient noise going (music, game, AC, heater, etc). If money were no object, I'd swap them out in a heartbeat and try out some other fans to get rid of that rumble.

That said, they do an excellent job of keeping temps under control, and there are no other audible noises from the fans other than airflow and that very quiet, low rumble. If you are in an area with (basically any amount of) ambient noise, the SP-120's should be completely silent in a build with proper speed settings until you rev them up to tap their power.


----------



## kcuestag

I hate summer, it's only June and my room is sitting at 30-32ºc right now, and my GPU's are hitting 50-51ºC in demanding games, CPU hit 72ºC on hottest core (Other cores below 69ºC).

Do you guys think these are normal temperatures for having my room at 30-31ºC? I mean I can't imagine what they'd be like if I was on air cooling right now lol.


----------



## Seredin

Seems like a delta of 40C is pretty high for CPUs.
(i know nothing)


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I hate summer, it's only June and my room is sitting at 30-32ºc right now, and my GPU's are hitting 50-51ºC in demanding games, CPU hit 72ºC on hottest core (Other cores below 69ºC).
> 
> Do you guys think these are normal temperatures for having my room at 30-31ºC? I mean I can't imagine what they'd be like if I was on air cooling right now lol.


In my current setup the CPU never goes above ambient temperature. 72*C is pretty scarey.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> In my current setup the CPU never goes above ambient temperature. 72*C is pretty scarey.


Really? You cool at 100% efficiency? Impressive..


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> In my current setup the CPU never goes above ambient temperature. 72*C is pretty scarey.


You have to explain me how you're bypassing the Laws of thermodynamics.


----------



## PinzaC55

Explain the laws of thermodynamics to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paYATcBrjEQ


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> So guys, I have made an order today for some parts. What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some items I already own..
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you to B negative for the acrylic pipe bending guide. I will be using it as reference when bending my pipes


I will nit regament the ek fluid it have been ******* the insode of my res up

Btw are you from sweden ???
Im from denmark xD


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Explain the laws of thermodynamics to me.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paYATcBrjEQ


More specific? You cannot have your computer UNDER ambient temperatures on air or water cooling, you can achieve that on a liquid nitrogen cooled computer.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> More specific? You cannot have your computer UNDER ambient temperatures on air or water cooling, you can achieve that on a liquid nitrogen cooled computer.


Or on a Phase Changer or TEC, basicly high end air conditioning


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> More specific? You cannot have your computer UNDER ambient temperatures on air or water cooling, you can achieve that on a liquid nitrogen cooled computer.


Where did I say it went under ambient temperature?


----------



## Sumner Rol

Just finished this today.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Where did I say it went under ambient temperature?


You didn't. But for your cpu to equal your ambient, that would be exceptional. What is your ambient ? and your cpu idle temp ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I hate summer, it's only June and my room is sitting at 30-32ºc right now, and my GPU's are hitting 50-51ºC in demanding games, CPU hit 72ºC on hottest core (Other cores below 69ºC).
> 
> Do you guys think these are normal temperatures for having my room at 30-31ºC? I mean I can't imagine what they'd be like if I was on air cooling right now lol.
> 
> 
> 
> In my current setup the *CPU never goes above ambient temperature.* 72*C is pretty scarey.
Click to expand...

Not possible without extreme cooling methods......your cooling does not come under this heading.
Please demonstrate this remarkable ability?


----------



## PedroC1999

The only form of water cooling which you can get sub ambient water temps is a good bong cooler, thats your best bet


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> For the most popular ones we'll do both, don't worry!


You guys should definitely follow suit with a full board ITX block. Would buy.


----------



## Tarnix

I'm going to think outside the box on this one: his cpu is not running, therefore at room temp.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> You guys should definitely follow suit with a full board ITX block. Would buy.


Agreed. I would much prefer an EK full board block than a bitspower, just my opinion.









THis very thing would cause me to get back into custom loop







.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I hate summer, it's only June and my room is sitting at 30-32ºc right now, and my GPU's are hitting 50-51ºC in demanding games, CPU hit 72ºC on hottest core (Other cores below 69ºC).
> 
> Do you guys think these are normal temperatures for having my room at 30-31ºC? I mean I can't imagine what they'd be like if I was on air cooling right now lol.


I see nothing unusual about those temps. considering your ambient conditions. You do live in Spain, after all! Do you have any kind of air conditioning available there?
In spite of the heat, it must be a beautiful country to live in, I would love to visit Spain one day.









Edit:
I had a look at the temperatures in Madrid, (in Celsius) it is quite warm there now. I can imagine it gets quite hot in the summer there:
www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/spain/madrid/madrid


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I hate summer, it's only June and my room is sitting at 30-32ºc right now, and my GPU's are hitting 50-51ºC in demanding games, CPU hit 72ºC on hottest core (Other cores below 69ºC).
> 
> Do you guys think these are normal temperatures for having my room at 30-31ºC? I mean I can't imagine what they'd be like if I was on air cooling right now lol.


IMO Your GPUs seem about right









But the CPU seems a bit high









But has the temp difference between ambient and load temps changed? If not, all is OK. It is just warm in your room


----------



## jamaican voodoo

i have quick question guys i just bough myself rosewill blackhawk ultra i was wondering if i can fit a monsta 360 rad in the top with one set of fans +rep. thank you!!!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I see nothing unusual about those temps. considering your ambient conditions. You do live in Spain, after all! Do you have any kind of air conditioning available there?
> In spite of the heat, it must be a beautiful country to live in, I would love to visit Spain one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> I had a look at the temperatures in Madrid, (in Celsius) it is quite warm there now. I can imagine it gets quite hot in the summer there:
> www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/spain/madrid/madrid


I was in Spain on a deployment about 3 years ago and it was very warm during the summer. I started out with an air cooled system that I purchased and built during that deployment. Needless to say, I ended up with a water cooled rig by the time summer started to set in. I had air conditioning, but with a delta T of about 25 degrees my temperatures were a little on the high side, even with liquid cooling.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I see nothing unusual about those temps. considering your ambient conditions. You do live in Spain, after all! Do you have any kind of air conditioning available there?
> In spite of the heat, it must be a beautiful country to live in, I would love to visit Spain one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> I had a look at the temperatures in Madrid, (in Celsius) it is quite warm there now. I can imagine it gets quite hot in the summer there:
> www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/spain/madrid/madrid


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> IMO Your GPUs seem about right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the CPU seems a bit high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But has the temp difference between ambient and load temps changed? If not, all is OK. It is just warm in your room


Yeah, my room is just too hot without the A/C. I do have an A/C, but I can't use it 24/7 as the electricity bill would get as high as $400 per month as we had last summer (Which got parents VERY pissed), so I'm limited to using it few hours a day.









Temperatures are fine when room is under reasonable temperatures (22-25ºC), the GPU's stay under 45ºC at all times and the CPU under 66-68ºC.









Oh, and it's VERY hot here in Madrid, but this has not even started, we're at about 34ºC (94ºF) today, but we'll be soon hitting 38ºC (100ºF) in the weekend (And as high as 40-41ºC / 105ºF during July and August).









I guess water cooling can't do miracles if my room is boiling, but still much better than air and dead silent. If the CPU hits above 75ºC during summer I might just drop it to 4.5GHz.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I was in Spain on a deployment about 3 years ago and it was very warm during the summer. I started out with an air cooled system that I purchased and built during that deployment. Needless to say, I ended up with a water cooled rig by the time summer started to set in. I had air conditioning, but with a delta T of about 25 degrees my temperatures were a little on the high side, even with liquid cooling.


Yeah, air conditioning is a must here in Spain for summer, last summer, I only had my old i7 2600k on water and my old GTX680 SLI was on stock coolers (air), I remember my room hitting 38ºC (100ºF) one day without the A/C, and my cards were crying for waterblocks!


----------



## indy500

Very nice work!


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not possible without extreme cooling methods......your cooling does not come under this heading.
> Please demonstrate this remarkable ability?


jesus wept. Ambient temp is about 28, CPU as measured by the LED on my mobo is about 28 rising to 31 under load, so maybe theres 3 degrees difference.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMxWLuOFyZM


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i have quick question guys i just bough myself rosewill blackhawk ultra i was wondering if i can fit a monsta 360 rad in the top with one set of fans +rep. thank you!!!


I had a Monsta 360 on the Elysium (they're very similar), w/ a single bank of fans it was good. You may not clear w/ push/pull unless you can push the rad with fans to the side to avoid the mb and ram.


----------



## JAM3S121

Is a 360 Alpacool Monsta, and UT60 240 overkill for a gpu and cpu? Going for haswell, and one gtx 780 (might sli in 2014 though around winter) in a sm5.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Is a 360 Alpacool Monsta, and UT60 240 overkill for a gpu and cpu? Going for haswell, and one gtx 780 (might sli in 2014 though around winter) in a sm5.


Yes, but this is ocn, overkill has no meaning









You can probably get away with the UT60 240mm but hey, the more the merrier









edit: I have a Monsta 480 and I'm about to drop three wc 780s w/ my cpu soon.


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yes, but this is ocn, overkill has no meaning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can probably get away with the UT60 240mm but hey, the more the merrier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I have a Monsta 480 and I'm about to drop three wc 780s w/ my cpu soon.


Thanks for quick response. I figure its overkill for only two blocks.. but eventually it will be 3 and I would rather have 5 fans total instead of more to keep up with temps.


----------



## wermad

So, i totally forgot to get some paste with my last order. My local store has these available:

-Shin-Etsu d23-7783D
-CM Fusion 4000
-Antec Nano Diamond Formula 7
-Antec Formula 6

Any thoughts or just use up whats left (quite a bit) of my Ceramique for my 780s and cpu???

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Thanks for quick response. I figure its overkill for only two blocks.. but eventually it will be 3 and I would rather have 5 fans total instead of more to keep up with temps.


Np


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> jesus wept. Ambient temp is about 28, CPU as measured by the LED on my mobo is about 28 rising to 31 under load, so maybe theres 3 degrees difference.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMxWLuOFyZM


will you please stop posting irrelevant links to youtube? for the amount of rads you have, you would need to be at stock clocks. what are you using to load your 3930k and for how long? the program called calculator is not a stress test even though it is doing mathematical equations.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> jesus wept. Ambient temp is about 28, CPU as measured by the LED on my mobo is about 28 rising to 31 under load, so maybe theres 3 degrees difference.


I'd be willing to bet there's a little wiggle room in the temperature transmitters. Either for your room or your CPU (or both).

We're not saying you have a crummy setup, we're just saying that 100% efficient heat transfer is impossible. You can't have 70 degree air cool water to 70 degrees which in turn cools a CPU down to 70 degrees. There's thermal dissipation everywhere in your loop.

Good on you man for having a good cooler, but people get really nitpicky about statements like "never gets above ambient" when 99% of our setups all use ambient air to some extent in the heat exchange process.

No worries.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had a Monsta 360 on the Elysium (they're very similar), w/ a single bank of fans it was good. You may not clear w/ push/pull unless you can push the rad with fans to the side to avoid the mb and ram.


thank you!! wermad i just order the monsta 360 and 240 from ppc i can't wait







here what my current setup look like.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> thank you!! wermad i just order the monsta 360 and 240 from ppc i can't wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here what my current setup look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Np, sweet looking rig there


----------



## jamaican voodoo

thanks mate


----------



## pc-illiterate

hey voodoo, did you et a new case? if its still that GRone, how did you get that window to not be an ugly assed beveled i ?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hey voodoo, did you et a new case? if its still that GRone, how did you get that window to not be an ugly assed beveled i ?


yes i got a new case, it's the rosewill blackhawk ultra...the GRone window was easy to mod it was help down by 8 screws...has for new case it had a mesh cover the pre-existing cut...i just took off the mesh and put plaxi glass their that was it, all this require little to no tools


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i have quick question guys i just bough myself rosewill blackhawk ultra i was wondering if i can fit a monsta 360 rad in the top with one set of fans +rep. thank you!!!


You will have more than enough room. I have one that is totally air cooled. Click the project link in my Signature. There are some pics that show the clearance available between an ATX mobo with the 2 230mm top fans attached. That's a Scythe 140mm CPU cooler attached to the board. You could build a house in this thing, so prepare some extra room in your work area when building this rig and be prepared to give up ALOT of space where it will live.

EDIT: Cannot updates the pics gallery on this from work for some silly security protocol reason....I will add the pics to the project log when I get home, MY BAD.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, i totally forgot to get some paste with my last order. My local store has these available:
> 
> -Shin-Etsu X23-7783D
> -CM Fusion 4000
> -Antec Nano Diamond Formula 7
> -Antec Formula 6


Any input appreciated


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any input appreciated


I've had really nice results with the Antec Nano Diamond Formula 7 .....but that's just lil ole me. Others may have better suggestions. I am taking my Flame Suit off the hanger just in case!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I've had really nice results with the Antec Nano Diamond Formula 7 .....but that's just lil ole me. Others may have better suggestions. I am taking my Flame Suit off the hanger just in case!


Thanks









The store still has the Zalman brush on compound. i used that and I got similar temps as AS5 but it was so much easier to brush it on. Sadly, they really skimp out on the large bottle they give you (looks like a nail polish bottle







). Might just use something to spatula the tim on the cores.


----------



## macandy13

I have a feeling this may have already been answered but is EK releasing a copper version of the EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ)?









Here's a link: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc-titan-se-original-csq-nickel.html

I know they have a copper version of the regular SE but I do like the frosted look, there seems to only be a nickel version on the website.


----------



## wermad

^^^Pm the ek rep:

http://www.overclock.net/u/222465/ek-tiborrr


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^Pm the ek rep:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/u/222465/ek-tiborrr


Will do, thanks


----------



## nleksan

Out of the TIM listed, I've had the best results with Antec Formula 7; dropped the temps on a Phenom II X4 960T by around 10C in my girlfriend's PC.

HOWEVER

Be careful, as it CAN remove the lettering from the IHS, so if warranty is a concern, either be very careful or use something else.

Also, it's a thick paste, but that's partially why it works so well.


----------



## Stickeelion

I would greatly appreciate help on this guys I have a primarily aesthetic problem, I have in my mind my loop set out like so:


I have come up with this and as you can see I am not sure whether I should have the reservoir inlet on the top or the bottom, If anyone can suggest any improvements on how I can connect everything between the GPU and reservoir (the CPU, Chipset and Top Radiator) I would greatly appreciate it. This is not for temperatures it is primarily aesthetic, I want to make the cleanest loop I can.

I am going for the look of smooth loops and I am doing it with normal tubing (ie the connection between the chip set and CPU will have the tubing bent in a U-shape to attach to straight fittings on the waterblock)

Also If I use the top inlet for the reservoir I only have the top cover with one hole in it so draining and filling will be a little more difficult.


----------



## Simplynicko

can anyone link me to a decent acrylic tubing guide/build log?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> can anyone link me to a decent acrylic tubing guide/build log?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Also If I use the top inlet for the reservoir I only have the top cover with one hole in it so draining and filling will be a little more difficult.


Do:

Top Radiator-->Top of MB Block-->Bottom of MB Block-->Left Side CPU Block-->Right Side CPU Block-->Top of Res


----------



## Muskaos

My 900D machine is now up and running.









Had some issues installing Windows 7, but after I got that figured out, it installed like a champ. Installing OS updates and utilities as I type...


----------



## Namkab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muskaos*
> 
> My 900D machine is now up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some issues installing Windows 7, but after I got that figured out, it installed like a champ. Installing OS updates and utilities as I type...


I see some tubing you need moar fittings, im kidding with you thats a cool build.


----------



## Muskaos

I needed someplace I could watch bubbles go through the system, and I didn't want to wrestle making a solid line up to the res (I didn't want to spend any more money on fittings; I must be in to Bitspower over a grand at this point.







)

Loop goes from bottom up through the bottom rad, up through all three video cards, into the top rad, down into the CPU, and then back to the res. I hung my drain point off a "Tee" at the very bottom of the loop, so gravity drains the whole thing.

My 800D system never looked this good, I must say...

Still need to tweak some stuff, though. For example, my pump isn't registering with the CPU fan header, so I get a CPU fan warning in the BIOS. I need to tighten down some of the wiring, too.

Overall, though, I'm pretty pleased.

Oh, word of warning on those Corsair SP120 fans: if you torque them down pretty hard, the frame warps, and the fan rubs. One of my top ones was rubbing when I first put power to the whole system. I was frantically adjusting mounting screws to get it to stop.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Can anyone help me out with this. I know it is an EK reservoir but what about the mounting mechanism? I hope it isn't custom...



Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Can anyone help me out with this. I know it is an EK reservoir but what about the mounting mechanism? I hope it isn't custom...
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Looks like its upside down (the vortex minimizer is on top). I've never seen those brackets before but the last ek res I had was the Adv 250mm one. It had ports on the top and bottom caps.

Did you get this already or looking to acquire it?


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Can anyone help me out with this. I know it is an EK reservoir but what about the mounting mechanism? I hope it isn't custom...
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


They're from Martmamod (original design from Murdermod)
http://www.martmamod.de/

http://www.martmamod.de/page1.php


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Can anyone help me out with this. I know it is an EK reservoir but what about the mounting mechanism? I hope it isn't custom...
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Murdermods who make the infamous murderbox make those mounts, They wouldn't be hard to make yourself, all it is is a piece of acrylic bent into a C shape with three bolts in it, one for mounting to the case and two to hold the reservoir in place.

Also murdermods overprice those things like crazy so you would be best of making your own with a heatgun and a drill

EDIT: well i didn't mean to answer it a third time, just took too long to write my post ^_^


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like its upside down (the vortex minimizer is on top). I've never seen those brackets before but the last ek res I had was the Adv 250mm one. It had ports on the top and bottom caps.
> 
> Did you get this already or looking to acquire it?


Looking to acquire it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7*
> 
> They're from Martmamod (original design from Murdermod)
> http://www.martmamod.de/
> 
> http://www.martmamod.de/page1.php


You ROCK! Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Murdermods who make the infamous murderbox make those mounts, They wouldn't be hard to make yourself, all it is is a piece of acrylic bent into a C shape with three bolts in it, one for mounting to the case and two to hold the reservoir in place.
> 
> Also murdermods overprice those things like crazy so you would be best of making your own with a heatgun and a drill
> 
> EDIT: well i didn't mean to answer it a third time, just took too long to write my post ^_^


Thanks! I doubt I'd be able to make it that nice lol. Me and acrylic don't get along nicely...

Thanks guys! +rep to you three!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## longroadtrip

Did you guys see that MIPS is shutting down? Sad to see, they made some really nice blocks...

Source: http://www.mips-computer.com/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Did you guys see that MIPS is shutting down? Sad to see, they made some really nice blocks...
> 
> Source: http://www.mips-computer.com/


NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

Right 2 Iceforce in the basket! BUY BUY BUY!!!!!!


----------



## longroadtrip

I had the same reaction...Already ordered 2 myself...


----------



## wermad

First DD and now MIPS, sad


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> First DD and now MIPS, sad


Maybe they are secretly making a single big company that would start with a bang sometime soon? My guess is DIPS









/hopes


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Did you guys see that MIPS is shutting down? Sad to see, they made some really nice blocks...
> 
> Source: http://www.mips-computer.com/


I know... it's insane... I _just_ ordered and received my MVE full-cover block... (as in TODAY) then stopped by the MIPS site to see if there were any other instructions available... and saw the message. Just checked them 2 days ago but wound up ordering from AquaTuning instead due to shipping and needing a couple other things...









Timing is everything I guess... not like I see many of their full-board blocks around these parts as it is... now it's even more rare!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Maybe they are secretly making a single big company that would start with a bang sometime soon? My guess is DIPS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /hopes


That would be great. DD apparently had a personal loss and with the economy, I guess the owner decided it was time to close shop. MIPS, well, I know in the EU the economy is hurting in many places. I did notice, even though their stuff is exclusive, there was less and less stock these last few months.

I wish all the employees and owners the best of luck in life


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That would be great. DD apparently had a personal loss and with the economy, I guess the owner decided it was time to close shop. MIPS, well, I know in the EU the economy is hurting in many places. I did notice, even though their stuff is exclusive, there was less and less stock these last few months.
> 
> I wish all the employees and owners the best of luck in life


i guess that if another company will close down (not that anyone wants that) they can all 3 make one company or MIPS and DD could team up with an existing not too big company. that would be an interesting thing that i'm sure a lot would like to see. We shouldn't let the talent of DD and MIPS disappear just like that.


----------



## wermad

Well, in these situation, another larger or more stable company may buy the rights and/or designs from them. DD, their stuff was very nice and high quality but the designs were a tad dated. My M6 wasn't leading the pack and now with the newer blocks, its been pushed back a bit. MIPS has some really nice stuff and their blocks may still have life in them (like the x79, cpu, and ram blocks).

The IceForce looks fantastic but my wallet is bone dry after going tri Titan LE


----------



## tiborrr12

Sad to see MIPS go, I hope they return some day


----------



## SoloTwo

Soooo, this might be a big deal.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Maybe they are secretly making a single big company that would start with a bang sometime soon? My guess is DIPS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /hopes


Maybe no one else did....but I laughed.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Sad to see MIPS go, I hope they return some day


----------



## khemist

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/dsc0006cpv.jpg/

Changing out the Tygon E1000 soon and fluid.

The only reason i'm changing the tubing (still clear) is because it doesn't really have any rigidity and sags bad.


----------



## Seredin

dem notification icons


----------



## khemist

Well it was meant for a show your setup thread really but lets go crazy!.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Sad to see MIPS go, I hope they return some day


that







got me thinking a little...







(builds hopes)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Maybe no one else did....but I laughed.


that makes us two


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/dsc0006cpv.jpg/
> 
> Changing out the Tygon E1000 soon and fluid.
> 
> The only reason i'm changing the tubing (still clear) is because it doesn't really have any rigidity and sags bad.


nice setup. What monitor do you use? the colors looks pretty amazing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Maybe no one else did....but I laughed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that makes us two
Click to expand...

Three!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> nice setup. What monitor do you use? the colors looks pretty amazing.


Dell 3007WFP-HC.


----------



## conwa

My Build in progress..


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> nice setup. What monitor do you use? the colors looks pretty amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> dELL 3007WFP-HC.
Click to expand...









thanks


----------



## conwa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Anyone got any iea what's going on here: (Fluid is 2-3 weeks old)
> 
> Milky Mayhems pastel red in GPU block:
> 
> 
> 
> Also not sure if this is air bubbles or mould?
> 
> 
> 
> Going to drain and look properly tonight, but any guesses?


Air locked in the system?


----------



## jokrik

My pump has been making whining noise after the last drain, I've thought it's because of the air bubbles but i've been bleeding it hard
now I"m thinking to change the pump from ddc to d5
currently running 2 x ddc 3.25, need some advice whether a d5 with aftermarket top can cover 1x480, 1x360, 1x240, 2xgpu block, 1xcpu block, and a motherboard block
anyone?

I can speculate that having 2 ddc is way too strong since the air keep getting suck into the loop in the bay res,
and yes I've been bleeding it with 1 pump only, I kept getting backflow when I run 2 pumps
btw i'm using 2 res, 1 bay and 1 tube (for looks)


----------



## ledzepp3

I know it's not "true" water cooling, but does anyone know of the rad compatibility (the NZXT Kraken X60 and the Corsair H110) in the roof of a Fractal R4? Shanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I know it's not "true" water cooling, but does anyone know of the rad compatibility (the NZXT Kraken X60 and the Corsair H110) in the roof of a Fractal R4? Shanks


Most of these CLS (closed loop systems) use aluminum radiators. You just have to modify it (and loose your warranty). A lot of folks switch to new tube and plumb the bigger or additional rad. Hit ebay for aluminum rads.

Btw, I'm not 100% sure if your model is aluminum. The product info included should say what material it is. If its copper/brass, you can use pretty much all standard rads out there.


----------



## ledzepp3

I mean will the radiators fit in the roof? They have different spacing, and I'm not sure what what the spacing is for the 140mm fan mounts in the roof of those cases are.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoloTwo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soooo, this might be a big deal.


Seems really nice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I mean will the radiators fit in the roof? They have different spacing, and I'm not sure what what the spacing is for the 140mm fan mounts in the roof of those cases are.


15mm is the standard spacing for mostly all radiators and cases that support radiators. If your's doesn't have one, you can always buy a rad grill and add it to your case. Check Fractal's site of their specs


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 15mm is the standard spacing for mostly all radiators and cases that support radiators. If your's doesn't have one, you can always buy a rad grill and add it to your case. Check Fractal's site of their specs


Not w/ 140mm radiators. Most radiators use 16mm but most cases use 20mm.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I know it's not "true" water cooling, but does anyone know of the rad compatibility (the NZXT Kraken X60 and the Corsair H110) in the roof of a Fractal R4? Shanks


Quote:


> The only issue we ran into was the fact that the Define XL R2 uses 16mm screw spacing for the top and front dual 140mm fan mounting, while the Corsair coolers use 20mm spacing. In our research, it appears to be almost random whether 2x140mm radiators use 16mm or 20mm spacing. So while we cannot fault Fractal Design for choosing 16mm spacing, it is something you need to consider if you are considering using this chassis for liquid cooling. What this means is that without modifying either the chassis or the radiator, you can only secure the radiator in four of the eight screw locations. This is plenty to keep the radiator securely in place, but requires a bit of creative mounting to get the fans attached as well.


http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Review-Fractal-Design-Define-XL-R2-187/

I'd assume their other cases use 16mm if the XL R2 does.


----------



## ledzepp3

Awesome, thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not w/ 140mm radiators. Most radiators use 16mm but most cases use 20mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Review-Fractal-Design-Define-XL-R2-187/
> 
> I'd assume their other cases use 16mm if the XL R2 does.


Good know, any specs on rad or case that shows this btw? I always like to see some concrete evidence please


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> dem notification icons


I know it shouldnt, but it drives me crazy.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys, a little update on my Phantom 820 build. I installed my new bottom 280mm and it fit perfectly under the front 200mm radiator and that is great because it means all my measurements for mounting the front rad were perfect. There was just one little thing I overlooked. The PSU...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good know, any specs on rad or case that shows this btw? I always like to see some concrete evidence please


Some manufacturers provide radiator diagrams that will show the fan spacing. But unfortunately not all of them do this. Sometimes you can find a reviewer or manufacturer that lists the fan spacing of cases but rarely so. Lian Li, Corsair, HWLabs use 20mm. Coolgate, Swiftech, XSPC, EK, Magicool, and Fractal use 16mm AFAIK. Then there are manufacturers who have used/use both like NZXT.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Some manufacturers provide radiator diagrams that will show the fan spacing. But unfortunately not all of them do this. Sometimes you can find a reviewer or manufacturer that lists the fan spacing of cases but rarely so. Lian Li, Corsair, HWLabs use 20mm. Coolgate, Swiftech, XSPC, EK, Magicool, and Fractal use 16mm AFAIK. Then there are manufacturers who have used/use both like NZXT.


----------



## CoolRonZ

add pls













thank you...

ps.. soon to be migrated over to my M8 and alot more cooling


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Some manufacturers provide radiator diagrams that will show the fan spacing. But unfortunately not all of them do this. Sometimes you can find a reviewer or manufacturer that lists the fan spacing of cases but rarely so. Lian Li, Corsair, HWLabs use 20mm. Coolgate, Swiftech, XSPC, EK, Magicool, and Fractal use 16mm AFAIK. Then there are manufacturers who have used/use both like NZXT.


That's weird, I thought all along that 15mm was the standard. Is 16 the new 15 ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> That's weird, I thought all along that 15mm was the standard. Is 16 the new 15 ?


For 140mm rads







Learned that myself today


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> For 140mm rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Learned that myself today


Didn't know that either.


----------



## thestache

Designing my own test bench. Not a fan of my Dimastech Easy V3.



http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-mod-build-log-custom-watercooled-test-bench-gtx-titans-ek-clean-blocks-19mm-tubing


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Didn't know that either.


140mm radiators sometimes even have 20mm spacing between fans.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Designing my own test bench. Not a fan of my Dimastech Easy V3.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-mod-build-log-custom-watercooled-test-bench-gtx-titans-ek-clean-blocks-19mm-tubing


How are you planning to bend this piece?







Or is it three piece? Where are the rivet/bolt points?


----------



## Sumner Rol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, a little update on my Phantom 820 build. I installed my new bottom 280mm and it fit perfectly under the front 200mm radiator and that is great because it means all my measurements for mounting the front rad were perfect. There was just one little thing I overlooked. The PSU...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I should have gone with the Monsoon fittings... Bitspower compression are hell on the fingers.


----------



## robcowboy73

I am sorry to see them go but its a sine of the times with the little guys getting hit hard in pocket. thank's for letting us now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Designing my own test bench. Not a fan of my Dimastech Easy V3.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-mod-build-log-custom-watercooled-test-bench-gtx-titans-ek-clean-blocks-19mm-tubing


Interesting but too similar to the LD bench,you have a clean slate,be different.

Remember to fully define the model otherwise it wont generate all the dimensions for an engineers drawing,you can go back afterwards and do it but if you have entities based on undefined entities then things move around.

Best to define everything in multiple axis while you work.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting but too similar to the LD bench,you have a clean slate,be different.
> 
> Remember to fully define the model otherwise it wont generate all the dimensions for an engineers drawing,you can go back afterwards and do it but if you have entities based on undefined entities then things move around.
> 
> Best to define everything in multiple axis while you work.


^^ This I found this out the hard way in high school for my advanced higher graphic communication, I should have known better but i was running short on time and decided to cut few corners. When it came to manufacturing the parts a lot of them were out by a few millimeters.


----------



## robcowboy73

why not mount the mb vertical on a sheet of perspex and if you mount that on a swivel you can get dam near 360 degrees and :see the back of the board as well now that would be over the top LOL but you still get a ten in my book for such a clean build


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting but too similar to the LD bench,you have a clean slate,be different.
> 
> Remember to fully define the model otherwise it wont generate all the dimensions for an engineers drawing,you can go back afterwards and do it but if you have entities based on undefined entities then things move around.
> 
> Best to define everything in multiple axis while you work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> ^^ This I found this out the hard way in high school for my advanced higher graphic communication, I should have known better but i was running short on time and decided to cut few corners. When it came to manufacturing the parts a lot of them were out by a few millimeters.


What would you suggest the best way to do that? I haven't used it in years and I'm fair rusty with it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> How are you planning to bend this piece?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or is it three piece? Where are the rivet/bolt points?


I won't have time to make it myself so I'll source someone to do it.

Was thinking of the body being just one piece, bent four times and welded or even just tacked together at the back in the middle. If that's not possible then maybe two pieces. There will be two supports tacked in place for the floor and roof. The floor will be tacked to the bottom support with the roof being removable and screwed into the top support with M2 screws.

You'll see the support is sunk in 2.5mm so with some paint the roof should sit flush with the sides when screwed in.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting but too similar to the LD bench,you have a clean slate,be different.
> 
> Remember to fully define the model otherwise it wont generate all the dimensions for an engineers drawing,you can go back afterwards and do it but if you have entities based on undefined entities then things move around.
> 
> Best to define everything in multiple axis while you work.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> ^^ This I found this out the hard way in high school for my advanced higher graphic communication, I should have known better but i was running short on time and decided to cut few corners. When it came to manufacturing the parts a lot of them were out by a few millimeters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What would you suggest the best way to do that? I haven't used it in years and I'm fair rusty with it.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> How are you planning to bend this piece?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or is it three piece? Where are the rivet/bolt points?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I won't have time to make it myself so I'll source someone to do it.
> 
> Was thinking of the body being just one piece, bent four times and welded or even just tacked together at the back in the middle. If that's not possible then maybe two pieces. There will be two supports tacked in place for the floor and roof. The floor will be tacked to the bottom support with the roof being removable and screwed into the top support with M2 screws.
> 
> You'll see the support is sunk in 2.5mm so with some paint the roof should sit flush with the sides when screwed in.
Click to expand...

I will explain in your thread.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I will explain in your thread.


Thanks. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys, a little update on my Phantom 820 build. I installed my new bottom 280mm and it fit perfectly under the front 200mm radiator and that is great because it means all my measurements for mounting the front rad were perfect. There was just one little thing I overlooked. The PSU...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a tight fit. Come up with any solutions? I would suggest cutting the front panel and sliding the rad forward. But, it looks like the top fan on the 280 rad will sit right under the 200mm rad. Any how, here's how I did it in the S810.



Hard to tell in the pic. But you have just enough room for the cables.

Check THIS out for more details.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, a little update on my Phantom 820 build. I installed my new bottom 280mm and it fit perfectly under the front 200mm radiator and that is great because it means all my measurements for mounting the front rad were perfect. There was just one little thing I overlooked. The PSU...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*


These guys were a life saver in many of my builds where I needed that extra 60mm of space w/ the extender. Hardest part is to carve the opening for the psu to pass through the rear of the case. With my current case, it already had an extender but I used this Lian Li I had lying around for the extra space


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Grills....


----------



## ledzepp3

Not gonna lie, I'd probably go broke from building my dream rig in this case... +1 for that phenomenal case design!


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Those corsair fans are horribly loud. Would not recommend them as they defeat the purpose of a quiet water cooled build.
> 
> Had them in my Corsair C70 build but couldn't stand them so swapped them for CoolerMaster Excalibur's which are equally as loud and just as good performance wise but also PWM so I have them spinning as slow as possible when the system is idling and then when playing a game they spin up depending on the load.
> 
> Any reason why you're going a 54mm rad, just brand preference? Personally I go for the biggest radiator possible (thickness wise) with quiet fans in the 1200-1500RPM range, no louder than 16-20db. The fans I like at the moment are Cougar Vortex HDB PWM. They are 18db at load, have good static pressure for radiators, high CFM and also PWM so I have them close to silent idling and then they ramp up depending on the load. I only have them in push on an XSPC RX360 and that combination is far more efficient that my Corsair C70 build which is louder, has stronger fans and more radiator.
> 
> You really don't need high RPM fans or as many on thick radiators and is the best combination in my opinion. Thick and quiet. If you you're not fond of PWM then just go for quiet but high static pressure fans like the Cougar Vortex HDB, Nanoxia Depp Silence, CoolerMaster Sickleflow, Noctua NF-P12.


How do you control your PWM fans?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Grills....


Pretty good.

Would like to see some slanted elongated ovals to mimic the overall shape of the case. Ie:



The vent shops, not the grill design.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Yeah,I did the rear grills like that,I should carry it thru,you are right there.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pretty good.
> 
> Would like to see some slanted elongated ovals to mimic the overall shape of the case. Ie:
> 
> 
> 
> The vent shops, not the grill design.


This. Looks great by the way.


----------



## wermad

Putting them slanted also breaks up the symmetry a bit to makes it more interesting


----------



## Solonowarion

I wonder what it would look like with the side panel matching the rest of the case?







eh B? eh?


----------



## WebsterXC

Fortunate enough to be one of the first people to have this. Got my hands on the brand new Primochill Acrylic Tubing, and I have to say it's pretty nice! I know acrylic tubing is nothing new to the PC watercooling scene, but now that its being marketed heavily by a fairly large company, it may catch on.

Pros:


Super cheap (Sold in packs of 4, 24" a piece for a total of 8 feet per pack. Only costs $15.)
Well packaged, solid enough not to break during shipping
Sold in almost every color imaginable, including four shades of orange, and both UV and non-UV colors.
Super time consuming (in a good way)! People are going to be making some cool designs that's for sure.

Cons:


End cuts are horrible
No instructions; prepare for endless threads in the watercooling section about bending this stuff.
Does not include any sort of bending tool. There's nothing to put inside of the tube to prevent it from collapsing in on itself when you go to bend it. Users are on their own for that.
The fittings. Primochill released fittings especially for their rigid tubing and they are horrible. Not only are they chunky, but when you tighten the rigid tube in the fitting, you can pull it right out. It's so easy to pull out I'm actually concerned something would come loose if you tried to transport the case or if you accidentally pumped a tube with liquid in it. With a little bit of sanding and patience, you can get this tubing to fit into Bitspower crystal link fittings, which are much much more solid.

For the future:


Primochill will also be offering 36" cuts for people who really need the extra length, and there is speculation of 48" pieces as well.
Primochill plans to release a "modders pack," which essentially includes instructions, fittings, tubing, and bending tools (one of the cons above).

For sale now at FrozenCPU and should be coming soon at all of the other big retailers.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So most of my watercooling parts that will be added to my loop have come in. The only thing missing is my MCP655. I am wondering though that while I wait if my current pump will be enough for these additions. Currently in the loop is my Rasa CPU block, heatkiller 680 gpu block, and a RX360 rad. I'm still using my XSPC rasa kit pump and I'm curious if it would be able to handle adding my new RX480 to the loop while I wait on my 655 pump?

Also the case is coming along nicely B-neg. Can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fittings. Primochill released fittings especially for their rigid tubing and they are horrible. Not only are they chunky, but when you tighten the rigid tube in the fitting, you can pull it right out. It's so easy to pull out I'm actually concerned something would come loose if you tried to transport the case or if you accidentally pumped a tube with liquid in it. With a little bit of sanding and patience, you can get this tubing to fit into Bitspower crystal link fittings, which are much much more solid.


Really? The guy in the video was saying that the fittings were really snug and wouldn't just pull out. That's sad to hear.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sumner Rol*
> 
> I should have gone with the Monsoon fittings... Bitspower compression are hell on the fingers.


Yea I have a couple Bitspower fittings in my built, but the monsoon are a bit easier. When I first got them I tightened them down all the way with the tool and that is the worst mistake you could ever make. I tried loosening it, but the whole thing loosened and I had to wrestle with each fitting for ten minutes each to get everything apart and I had scratched and slightly bloody hands in the end. So just tighten them with
your hands.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That is a tight fit. Come up with any solutions? I would suggest cutting the front panel and sliding the rad forward. But, it looks like the top fan on the 280 rad will sit right under the 200mm rad. Any how, here's how I did it in the S810.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to tell in the pic. But you have just enough room for the cables.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check THIS out for more details.


Wow that's a really good idea. I ended up cutting the back of the case to slide the PSU through and use a Lian Li Extender.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Aphid

Got some big updates on my watercooled rig since last I posted.
Pics!


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aphid*
> 
> Got some big updates on my watercooled rig since last I posted.
> Pics!






It might just be me, but I _love_ the copper heat sinks on the video card, I think it contrasts the blue-ish tubing and coolant beautifully, I think that's the first time ever that I've seen that type of GPU water cooling done that's also visually pleasing to me. Well done mate!


----------



## mm67

I wonder what the price for PWM controlled DDC with EK top will be, maybe MCP35X finally gets some competition : http://www.ekwb.com/news/360/19/EKWB-announces-partnership-with-Xylem-Inc-Laing-Thermotech/


----------



## Jeffinslaw

How to make old blocks new again? Simply re-plate them!











Jeffinslaw


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How to make old blocks new again? Simply re-plate them!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Looks great! Just out of curiosity, how much did that cost to do?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Looks great! Just out of curiosity, how much did that cost to do?


I had it professionally done and it cost me $20 per block, so $40 total.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jameswalt1

Now with 780's


----------



## wermad

^^^Glad to see the bridge hooked up and running









Again, amazing build


----------



## nepToon

Jameswalt, you are a boss!









Is that acrylic tubing? Loving the straight tube routing

/edit: oh it states in your build log that its acrylic, sry for the stupid question.


----------



## zmegati

Hello people...i see that here know very much about water cooling, so I'll first show you what I have, and then ask a few questions to hear your opinion.

I have cooling system ZALMAN RESERATOR 1 V2 with ZM-WB5 CPU water-block on AMD FX X8 8120, and ZM-GWB3 VGA Water Block on my XFX BLACK EDITION 7970 3GB and RAD XT 120.

I have a sensor for water temperature, considering that I have eyefinity and after a long playing at a resolution 5760*1080 show me the water temperature max 42 degrees









And it looks like the first couple of pictures











I planned put additional EK RAD XT 240, EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel, EK-FC7970 - Nickel CSQ and tube 12/16 and now my tube 8/12 and since i replaced pump which had flow 300 l/h and now has 600l/h and i think that a tube is too tight and there is no much water flow.

I am from Croatian and the problem is with us nothing can buy, but all ordering from other countries and everything is twice as expensive









Do you think that there is a need to change all that...and if it does all necessary???


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*


Who makes those inline flow spinners and where can I get them?









Just found them... bitspower. WAY COOL... superb build


----------



## Janac

Can EK DCP 2.2 handel a 360 + 120mm + 120mm rad?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Can EK DCP 2.2 handel a 360 + 120mm + 120mm rad?


Radiators are not really very restrictive, i'd be more worried about your blocks when it comes to restriction


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Who makes those inline flow spinners and where can I get them?


Bitspower


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How to make old blocks new again? Simply re-plate them!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Looks good! Thanks for the idea too.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

hey guys and gals wanted to share my new updated rig with you all enjoy


----------



## MetallicAcid




----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> hey guys and gals wanted to share my new updated rig with you all enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip


I knew that case looked familiar! Great job!


----------



## jamaican voodoo

thanks man!!...yea their practically the same case i'm using the black-hawk ultra...i saw your build it's beautiful man


----------



## IronDoq

New Stuff...







Loop would be full and operational right now if not for three damn screws on the back of my 780, managed to strip them and now they're refusing to budge; I've tried just about everything. I already asked about this in the 780 forum, but anybody here have experience with removing small stripped screws in fragile areas? I want to install that beautiful AQ block!!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> New Stuff...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lo
> 
> 
> ld be full and operational right now if not for three damn screws on the back of my 780, managed to strip them and now they're refusing to budge; I've tried just about everything. I already asked about this in the 780 forum, but anybody here have experience with removing small stripped screws in fragile areas? I want to install that beautiful AQ block!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You could use a dremel to cut a slit in the screw and then use a flat head to unscrew it, you could use a small drill bit and drill a hole in the middle to allow your Philips head to sit deeper in the screw and maybe catch something, you can buy something like this ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A4CWHO?ie=UTF8&tag=vicastingcom-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001A4CWHO ) , you can take a rubber band and Place it on top of the screw head then try to unscrew the screw slowly pushing really hard, you can just drill the head off of the screw, or you can take a hammer and gently bang the screw driver into the head of the screw.


----------



## tecuarenta

^ this
late 4 me...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Here is another couple pictures for you guys. This Maxrevo comes with so many cables that once my MOBO cables is finished being sleeved I'm going to be able to be up and running until my other cables are done being sleeved. Love it!!
Using a pair of Prolimatech Red LED Vortex 14 Aluminum Fans on the bottom of the Alphacool 280mm radiator and a pair of Corsair SP140's on the top. For now I'm using NZXT 200mm fans for the push pull on the front Phobya 200mm radiator. Using Prolimatech Vortex 12 & 14 red LED's on the rest of the case. Love these fans! I can't wait until I have the money to buy my Alphacool 7950 blocks. That is the whole reason I started water cooling in the first place!!!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> hey guys and gals wanted to share my new updated rig with you all enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What is that pump?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This oddly looks just like your avatar. (ZIM plans something... )


----------



## PedroC1999

For my 810 build, I want the cleanest look possible, what do you guys think of routing 1 30cm section of tubing in the cable management on the backside of the case, do you think it would work?


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> For my 810 build, I want the cleanest look possible, what do you guys think of routing 1 30cm section of tubing in the cable management on the backside of the case, do you think it would work?


Work yes
Performens bad
Hard to make it work right
I was trying it in the haf x case and that did not work


----------



## PedroC1999

Because the grommets in my 810 are rather long, I think I can get a pretty good angle in/out of the back, would it be worth a try??


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Because the grommets in my 810 are rather long, I think I can get a pretty good angle in/out of the back, would it be worth a try??


I've seen it in the past, it's possible
Well it comes back to which tube you are using, if it's thick than it would be easier


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I've seen it in the past, it's possible
> Well it comes back to which tube you are using, if it's thick than it would be easier


3/8"

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-PVC-AlphaTube-HF-1310-38-ID-1m_522.html

Do you think it is possible?


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I had it professionally done and it cost me $20 per block, so $40 total.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


That doesn't seem too bad. Did you have to strip any previous plating too?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> That doesn't seem too bad. Did you have to strip any previous plating too?


The nickel that was on there before had to be stripped off but the plater did that. You can see the sort of pattern the acid ate into the copper in some of the pictures. If you would like to see more close-up pictures, check out the build in my sig called "MurderMac."

Jeffinslaw


----------



## YouGotJaked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> The nickel that was on there before had to be stripped off but the plater did that. You can see the sort of pattern the acid ate into the copper in some of the pictures. If you would like to see more close-up pictures, check out the build in my sig called "MurderMac."
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks! Your build looks great by the way


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> What is that pump?
> This oddly looks just like your avatar. (ZIM plans something... )[/quote
> 
> the pumps is a dc 50c i get from a site call lightobjects
> here a link to it. it's running @ 12v atm and the flow its great.
> 
> http://www.lightobject.com/Solar-water-pump-40Lm-635GPH-DC24V-High-Temperature-100-39C-P570.aspx


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Because the grommets in my 810 are rather long, I think I can get a pretty good angle in/out of the back, would it be worth a try??


Measuring my Switch 810, there's about 22-24mm of space (0.866" to 0.945") between the back of the motherboard tray and rear panel.

IMHO, the best way to do something like this would be to use 90deg dual-rotary female-to-female adapters, right at each grommet, so that the tubing doesn't have to bend at all and instead is a straight run from one spot to the next. The fittings should prevent any possibility of kinking.


----------



## Aphid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> It might just be me, but I _love_ the copper heat sinks on the video card, I think it contrasts the blue-ish tubing and coolant beautifully, I think that's the first time ever that I've seen that type of GPU water cooling done that's also visually pleasing to me. Well done mate!


Aww thanks man, I've been debating whether or not to go full cover, but there's a part of me that says "full cover blocking a 470 at this point is a waste of money with no route for expansion or upgrade". Glad to hear you like it, I'll definitely be sticking with uni blocks on the GPU


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> 3/8"
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-PVC-AlphaTube-HF-1310-38-ID-1m_522.html
> 
> Do you think it is possible?


You should have no issues with that size tubing as long as you have the correct fittings to make it work...that will depend on your tubing route though.
I had a run go behind my motherboard tray in my Switch 810 build, and I was using 1/2" tubing.

Also a buddy of mine did it in his Switch 810 build using 1/2" tubing as well, his run was much longer, probably something similar to what you're trying.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1222267/nzxt-switch-810-420-280-build#post_16584694

EDIT: Here is a pic from his log, credit goes to mironccr345


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aphid*
> 
> Aww thanks man, I've been debating whether or not to go full cover, but there's a part of me that says "full cover blocking a 470 at this point is a waste of money with no route for expansion or upgrade". Glad to hear you like it, I'll definitely be sticking with uni blocks on the GPU






That's the first time I've *ever* liked one. As you can see from my last build, I'm a full cover kind of guy







I honestly hated the way my last build was because of my case, but damn- that block was my water cooling baby! I still love the Swiftech Komodo HD7970 blocks..


----------



## teamrushpntball

Little treat for all the watercoolers around here,and hopefully an incentive to help sway some perspective watercoolers. My build in it's current state, which in all honesty isn't ever done.

New Additions:
All new matte black Bitspower C47 fittings (Mighty snug I might add, was a bit worried)
E22 Acrylic Tubing
EK Single link bridges replacing the large clunky parallel bridge.
ColdZero Top 240 Hexx Grill
CZ Side 480 Hexx Grills
CZ Midplate
CZ PSU Plate
CZ Backplate
CZ 5.25 Side and back covers
CZ Motherboard Tray
CZ MB Extension with comb cuts for my cables
AND
CZ Front Panel with sexy red light box









Sorry for the quality, coming from my Note 2, and I swear that it isn't this dusty.

*WC Gear:*
MCP35X w/ EK CSQ Clear Top
EK 250mm Adv 2 Reservoir
EK CSQ Copper/Acrylic 7970 Blocks and Backplates
EK CSQ Copper/Acrylic Ram Block
EK CSQ Supremacy Copper/ACrylic CPU Block
EK CSQ Nickle/Acrylic Mobo Block
BP C47 Fittings
E22 Acrlic Tubing (Bent with help from B-neg's excellent guide)
EK XTX 480 Radiator
- 4 x Gentle Typhoon AP15 Fans on front of radiator
- 2 x Corsair SP120 on back of radiator
- 2 x Corsair AF120 as top exhaust

*General Hardware*
i7-3770k Delidded
Asus Maximus V Formula z77
2 x AMD 7970
2 x 4gb Samsung Ram
1tb WD Black
128gb Samsung 830
Corsair 860i PSU
And finally a Corsair Link unit to control the fans


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouGotJaked*
> 
> Thanks! Your build looks great by the way


Why thank you!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You should have no issues with that size tubing as long as you have the correct fittings to make it work...that will depend on your tubing route though.
> I had a run go behind my motherboard tray in my Switch 810 build, and I was using 1/2" tubing.
> 
> Also a buddy of mine did it in his Switch 810 build using 1/2" tubing as well, his run was much longer, probably something similar to what you're trying.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1222267/nzxt-switch-810-420-280-build#post_16584694
> 
> EDIT: Here is a pic from his log, credit goes to mironccr345


Unfortunately the only fittings I have left are 45*, I will have a test fit today an see if it kinks, if it doesnt, il stick with it


----------



## chefproject

Hi everybody,
cause i did go the way of the water







2 weeks ago and i would like to join the club, here some pics of my watercooled system.

Parts which are used:

CPU block: Phobya UC-1 extreme
GPU block: EK waterblocks 7870
Pump: Phobya DC12 400
Res: Phobya Balancer 150 with 2 lightmodules
Tube: Primochill 16/10 UV blue
Rad: 280 Alphacool rad 60mm thick
Fans:2x 140mm Enermax cluster

and here the pics























All blue sleeving is done by myself and yes i know it's not the cleanest build, but it's my first wc setup and the case was not really practical for a custom loop.

Greets from Belgium Chefproject

PS: the case is a Zalman Z9 plus


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chefproject*
> 
> Hi everybody,
> cause i did go the way of the water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 weeks ago and i would like to join the club, here some pics of my watercooled system.
> 
> Parts which are used:
> 
> CPU block: Phobya UC-1 extreme
> GPU block: EK waterblocks 7870
> Pump: Phobya DC12 400
> Res: Phobya Balancer 150 with 2 lightmodules
> Tube: Primochill 16/10 UV blue
> Rad: 280 Alphacool rad 60mm thick
> Fans:2x 140mm Enermax cluster
> 
> and here the pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All blue sleeving is done by myself and yes i know it's not the cleanest build, but it's my first wc setup and the case was not really practical for a custom loop.
> 
> Greets from Belgium Chefproject
> 
> PS: the case is a Zalman Z9 plus


What is that for? Oh, I see. They're temp sensor. BTW, I have mine on the radiators.

Nice work!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

PSU Grill finished.


----------



## Aphid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chefproject*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everybody,
> cause i did go the way of the water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 weeks ago and i would like to join the club, here some pics of my watercooled system.
> 
> Parts which are used:
> 
> CPU block: Phobya UC-1 extreme
> GPU block: EK waterblocks 7870
> Pump: Phobya DC12 400
> Res: Phobya Balancer 150 with 2 lightmodules
> Tube: Primochill 16/10 UV blue
> Rad: 280 Alphacool rad 60mm thick
> Fans:2x 140mm Enermax cluster
> 
> and here the pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All blue sleeving is done by myself and yes i know it's not the cleanest build, but it's my first wc setup and the case was not really practical for a custom loop.
> 
> Greets from Belgium Chefproject
> 
> PS: the case is a Zalman Z9 plus


Looks great, I like your res placement, really interesting. Have a think and with some tweaks you could get that really clean.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chefproject*
> 
> Hi everybody,
> cause i did go the way of the water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 weeks ago and i would like to join the club, here some pics of my watercooled system.
> 
> Parts which are used:
> 
> CPU block: Phobya UC-1 extreme
> GPU block: EK waterblocks 7870
> Pump: Phobya DC12 400
> Res: Phobya Balancer 150 with 2 lightmodules
> Tube: Primochill 16/10 UV blue
> Rad: 280 Alphacool rad 60mm thick
> Fans:2x 140mm Enermax cluster
> 
> and here the pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All blue sleeving is done by myself and yes i know it's not the cleanest build, but it's my first wc setup and the case was not really practical for a custom loop.
> 
> Greets from Belgium Chefproject
> 
> PS: the case is a Zalman Z9 plus


It's about time someone shows how things are done in the Zalman cases








really like the look of the external res and rad.

btw, the temp sensors make it look a bit cluttered. maybe you should route those under the tubing so it would be stealthily cleaner?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PSU Grill finished.


i fear that you threat the real case manufacturers. i bet in a few years i would recommend someone a case from B-NEG (ltd) which is notorious for it's high quality and attention for detail.


----------



## driftingforlife

Finnaly got the sides on my V8 after months


----------



## robcowboy73

It may be a work in progress but it looks sweet to me and love the clean look with the cable


----------



## ArtX38

,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,


----------



## driftingforlife

I just noticed my XSPC bay res has a bow in the top of it, I remember a convo about this before, what was the outcome?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtX38*


amazing build!
love all the tweaks you've done, need more rads


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> amazing build!
> love all the tweaks you've done, need more rads


I agree


----------



## chefproject

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aphid*
> 
> Looks great, I like your res placement, really interesting. Have a think and with some tweaks you could get that really clean.


Hey there thx for the comment and yes i know some different fittings and i can make the loop way shorter and cleaner, was planning to do that next month


----------



## gdesmo

Not done yet but built a pedestal for my XSPC H1 Cube. Three 480 rads in the basement and two 480's up top as well as a 240 for the video cooling, the five 480's are to cool three dual Tec blocks with a potential to cool down to about -30 C. 4 DDC pumps and 1 D5 will do the glycol and de- ionized water flow duties. Will be able to finish this rig early next month but not in time for Toronto Lan, Will have to bring a lesser unit for a little casual fun instead. >


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtX38*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,


Love the setup, so much curvature going on.


----------



## robcowboy73

I will agree that setup is sweet but I would not like the electric bill for running that for to long lol


----------



## bundymania




----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I got the exact two pcs of Hardware last week for my Cards-nice change from EKWB


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chefproject*
> 
> Greets from Belgium Chefproject
> 
> PS: the case is a Zalman Z9 plus


Love that zalman z9 case. That was my first case for my build. Great case. Too big for me tho. Itx all the way
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## PedroC1999

Mine Too!

I have the H100i in mine, does really well for a case of its size!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Backplate is not fitted correctly or doesnt fit correctly


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Backplate is not fitted correctly or doesnt fit correctly


Are you talking about the lip on the bottom left? It looks like he either needs to bend and adjust or it was defective. Besides that good looking backplate and block.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Are you talking about the lip on the bottom left? It looks like he either needs to bend and adjust or it was defective. Besides that good looking backplate and block.


definitely defective if it is actually completely installed. that entire left bottom corner is lifted. he should NOT NEED to bend it to get it to fit flush. and bending it would definitely make it not flat. if it is flat, start back at the beginning of my post.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtX38*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,
> ,


Nice build.


----------



## Simplynicko

that has to be the sexiest waterblock and backplate ive ever seen,


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Backplate is not fitted correctly or doesnt fit correctly


It looks like he has a screw and nut holing the tip of the i/o plate on the pcb. Screw head is probably a tad too high and it raises that corner of the backplate. A smaller screw or a flushed one will help. in a traditional or even inverted setup, the gpu's i/o plate continues to be part of the structure to hold the pcb and block.

Small order:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I hope my rad will fit


----------



## Killa Cam

theres definitely a flex. idk how you can have only four holes to mount a backplate to a waterblock.


----------



## wermad

Here's the nut holding the screw:

Quote:


>


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Small order:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope my rad will fit


You change stuff faster than anyone I've seen on this site lol. How do you keep your wife from strangling you???

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You change stuff faster than anyone I've seen on this site lol. How do you keep your wife from strangling you???
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Lol, it was already in the works. I just needed a budget case in the interim. I like the haf xb but ultimately I had my eye on this guy. I just lost a lot of interest after several delays and stories of damage from shipping (you know this first hand).

I was going to pick one up once supply was more steady (~xmas), but I got a nice amazon g/c from a relative and so I just ordered it for the heck of it.

I'm pretty much flat out of funds for my addiction....I mean hobby so the bigger loop will be on hold. I've been warned the Monsta my clash w/ my mb so there might be a chance the Monsta will go







. If it does, I'm thinking of two xt-45 480s and two xt-45 240s.

Wife, just keep her happy and letting her go shopping. She was a bit perplexed when the MM went but I got that out of impatiences waiting for Godzilla. Since amazon was always quoting 1-2 months, then i saw it available in a few days, I jumped on it.

There's plenty of nuts like me who change hardware every weekend







.

On forward.....


----------



## h3llRaiz3r

finally managed to get some pics... everything's plain vanilla, nothing fancy at all. i just have no talent for modding lol...

















Intel Core i7 3770K
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7
Corsair Dominator GT DDR3 1866MHz 16GB (2x8GB-Kit)
MSI R6990-4PD4GD5 (Main)
Palit GTS250 Green (Physx)
Creative Sound Blaster X-fi Fatal1ty Titanium
2 x Corsair Force GS 128GB (RAID0 - System)
4 x 3TB Seagate Barracuda ST3000DM001 (RAID5 - Data)
3 x 3TB Seagate Barracuda ST3000DM001 (JBOD)
Bitfenix Superspeed USB 3.0 Card Reader
Zalman MFC2
Zalman ZM-MH200 U3
Corsair AX1200
Coolermaster Cosmos S

EK Supreme HF Nickel+Plexi
EK FC6990 WB Copper+Acetal
EK Dominator Ram Block
Swiftech MCP655 Pump
XSPC D5 Pump Top
EK Multioption RES X2 - 150 Advanced
Tygon B-44-4X
BP Matte Black Compression Fittings
Black Ice GTX360
6 x Zalman ZM-F3 RL


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You change stuff faster than anyone I've seen on this site lol. How do you keep your wife from strangling you???
> 
> Jeffinslaw


why do people always sign of with their name when we can already see it?

Stickeelion


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, it was already in the works. I just needed a budget case in the interim. I like the haf xb but ultimately I had my eye on this guy. I just lost a lot of interest after several delays and stories of damage from shipping (you know this first hand).
> 
> I was going to pick one up once supply was more steady (~xmas), but I got a nice amazon g/c from a relative and so I just ordered it for the heck of it.
> 
> I'm pretty much flat out of funds for my addiction....I mean hobby so the bigger loop will be on hold. I've been warned the Monsta my clash w/ my mb so there might be a chance the Monsta will go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If it does, I'm thinking of two xt-45 480s and two xt-45 240s.
> 
> Wife, just keep her happy and letting her go shopping. She was a bit perplexed when the MM went but I got that out of impatiences waiting for Godzilla. Since amazon was always quoting 1-2 months, then i saw it available in a few days, I jumped on it.
> 
> There's plenty of nuts like me who change hardware every weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I think that the monsta will fit in the case
> 
> On forward.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I think that the monsta will fit in the case


An owner tried and his RIVE's cpu connector clashed with the fans. I did study my mb closely and I don't have anything on the top to conflict , so crossing fingers


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> why do people always sign of with their name when we can already see it?
> 
> Stickeelion


It's just a way of wrapping up posts I guess... sort of like an email, I always end with my name.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## ginger_nuts

A comment signature would be handy


----------



## Stickeelion

Well, I have been on this thread a while, but not had any watercooling gear, I can now actually join for real


----------



## driftingforlife

Just submitted a ticket to XSPC to replaced my defective D5 res with a Acrylic D5 res. Lets see how this goes.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtX38*


That looks great.


----------



## JohnnyEars

I got round to fitting it at last







(although I'm doubting my choice of copper, but wth..) and sorry for phone pix, I need a decent camera


----------



## robcowboy73

sweet cooler and the pic an't that bad . in fact there are a dam site better then my one's


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Small order:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope my rad will fit


:facepalm:


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> why do people always sign of with their name when we can already see it?
> 
> Stickeelion
> 
> 
> 
> It's just a way of wrapping up posts I guess... sort of like an email, I always end with my name.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

And it is a good way to sign off a post, imo, adds a touch of class so sorely lacking from many of the posts you see these days.
Rep+


----------



## xenomorph113

Hello all,

just showing a quick update of my fiance's computer

here's what it used to look like, eww what a mess




now lets see it all put back together in a LD-V7



much nicer









full build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1397915/build-log-project-sweetheart-aka-project-power-melon/0_100#post_20190666


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> just showing a quick update of my fiance's computer
> 
> here's what it used to look like, eww what a mess
> 
> now lets see it all put back together in a LD-V7
> 
> 
> 
> much nicer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> full build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1397915/build-log-project-sweetheart-aka-project-power-melon/0_100#post_20190666


GD the last photo was a relief


----------



## robcowboy73

locking good nice one keep up the good work:thumb:


----------



## tecuarenta

Summer is coming (to Spain)


----------



## lihoudis

hello guys as an water cooled owner i have read a lot of your posts and i have one question ???why noone use peltier module on resevoir???? i am asking because that what i did it and my temps were very low i will be able to upload some pics in few days because i am modding the case and the water peltier build once more


----------



## Chomuco

galery rig new god !! http://imgur.com/a/PJwRL


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lihoudis*
> 
> hello guys as an water cooled owner i have read a lot of your posts and i have one question ???why noone use peltier module on resevoir???? i am asking because that what i did it and my temps were very low i will be able to upload some pics in few days because i am modding the case and the water peltier build once more


my answer is water condensation.

As it happens when using peliter, the whole loop will begin to drop below ambient temperature, water drops will form and could risk the entire system to short circuit


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Had to make slight changes to make it easier to make but on the upside you can now replace the panels and go between form factors or use different panel materials really easily!

The first of the sizes,ITX!


----------



## lihoudis

thats what i thought vicyo and use coolant that we usually put in the radiator of the car. it can hold until -12 celsium


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lihoudis*
> 
> hello guys as an water cooled owner i have read a lot of your posts and i have one question ???why noone use peltier module on resevoir???? i am asking because that what i did it and my temps were very low i will be able to upload some pics in few days because i am modding the case and the water peltier build once more


I would guess because of the possibility of condensation. Condensation tends to equal dead components. Sorry I was so late with my response.


----------



## Destrto

I have a question for those familiar with these cpu block/pumps on the Corsair and antec AIO water coolers.. I'm curious to know if they are strong enough to push water through more than one radiator of similar size? The idea I had theoretically, was to use one of those blocks from an AIO unit, and (if this is even possible) attach 2 radiators in series to it.

Essentially like this - Block/pump ->radiator->radiator->block/pump

Are any of these AIO block/pumps strong enough to push water through like that?

Also, this might be better suited for the "red mod" thread, but I thought I would ask here for more responses. But I'm also curious about anyones input on this scenario.

AIO cpu block on each GPU, feeding into one radiator. Possibly with a T fitting? Had the idea at the store earlier.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Well, I have been on this thread a while, but not had any watercooling gear, I can now actually join for real


Welcome to the club mate







Are you posting on OCAU as well?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> galery rig new god !! http://imgur.com/a/PJwRL


*OhMyGOD!!!!*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Fixed







Lol, I almost gave up on the 900D but then the opportunity came up and i seized. Builds are slowly popping up here and there so I cave







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> galery rig new god !! http://imgur.com/a/PJwRL


Awesome rig mate! A great contender to motm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Had to make slight changes to make it easier to make but on the upside you can now replace the panels and go between form factors or use different panel materials really easily!
> 
> The first of the sizes,ITX!


Looking good








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a question for those familiar with these cpu block/pumps on the Corsair and antec AIO water coolers.. I'm curious to know if they are strong enough to push water through more than one radiator of similar size? The idea I had theoretically, was to use one of those blocks from an AIO unit, and (if this is even possible) attach 2 radiators in series to it.
> 
> Essentially like this - Block/pump ->radiator->radiator->block/pump
> 
> Are any of these AIO block/pumps strong enough to push water through like that?
> 
> Also, this might be better suited for the "red mod" thread, but I thought I would ask here for more responses. But I'm also curious about anyones input on this scenario.
> 
> AIO cpu block on each GPU, feeding into one radiator. Possibly with a T fitting? Had the idea at the store earlier.


One more rad should be fine. A popular modification for these CLS (closed loop systems) is to switch to a 240mm radiator (basically two 120mm rads). So it shouldn't be an issue. I would say the limit would be another block but I've seen quite a few mods where two block-pumps are plumbed in the same loop.

Honestly, consider this if you can get the parts for cheap. Otherwise, you can get yourself a nice custom starter kit loop. Good luck


----------



## Destrto

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, I almost gave up on the 900D but then the opportunity came up and i seized. Builds are slowly popping up here and there so I cave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Awesome rig mate! A great contender to motm.
> Looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more rad should be fine. A popular modification for these CLS (closed loop systems) is to switch to a 240mm radiator (basically two 120mm rads). So it shouldn't be an issue. I would say the limit would be another block but I've seen quite a few mods where two block-pumps are plumbed in the same loop.






Honestly, consider this if you can get the parts for cheap. Otherwise, you can get yourself a nice customer starter kit loop. Good luck









Thanks, it was a random thought I had at the store earlier, since I want to add water cooling to my GPU's, as I already have the H100 for my CPU and like it(except the corrugated tubing, ew), but dont have the money for GPU water blocks and the rest of what I would need for a custom loop.

I apprecaite the input though, it helps knowing I would be able to add atleast one more radiator if I wanted to.
My idea was, since I will be getting 2 CLS's for my 2 6850's, to hook the radiators up together in series and mount them right next to each other in my 500R. OR, now that you bring up the larger Reservoir option, maybe running both pumps into the 1 240 reservoir, granted it will fit where I would want it to. Which reminds me I now have the tools necessary to mod my front panel in order to fit a 25-27mm radiator in the front of my 500R.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> galery rig new god !! http://imgur.com/a/PJwRL


Nice work big fan of the double tube res.


----------



## Modest Mouse

Hey all, tried to post this in the Obsidian Club and got no response so I figured I'd try it here since this post is heavily trafficked. Think I'd have any luck fitting a Monsta 360 in the top of an 800D without hacking it? I've already taken the dremel to the case so that doesn't frighten me but I'm not a fan of external rads either. New build I'm putting together with a Asus Sabertooth Z77 board. I could always go UT60 with push/pull but this is overkill.net...


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> Hey all, tried to post this in the Obsidian Club and got no response so I figured I'd try it here since this post is heavily trafficked. Think I'd have any luck fitting a Monsta 360 in the top of an 800D without hacking it? I've already taken the dremel to the case so that doesn't frighten me but I'm not a fan of external rads either. New build I'm putting together with a Asus Sabertooth Z77 board. I could always go UT60 with push/pull but this is overkill.net...


I would say just go for the UT60 up top. I think you are going to have to mod a bit more. I haven't played with a 800D in quite sometime so Im not 100% on that.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Welcome to the club mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you posting on OCAU as well?


I will post in OCAU, however I can't seem to get pictures into my posts on that site


----------



## Modest Mouse

The beginnings of a build...white edition UT60 or monsta going up top. Trying to come up with an idea for a double helix theme. Any suggestions are welcome!


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> The beginnings of a build...white edition UT60 or monsta going up top. Trying to come up with an idea for a double helix theme. Any suggestions are welcome!


Double helix? I think you might be looking for one of those FrozenQ reservoirs:


I think that would look fantastic in your build with some black or white tubing.

you can also get those reservoirs in pretty much any other colour


----------



## Modest Mouse

Was thinking about one of those reservoirs for sure. Had a talk with one of the engineers at work and he said that copper tubing painted matte black would create the best emissivity for the loop.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> Was thinking about one of those reservoirs for sure. Had a talk with one of the engineers at work and he said that copper tubing painted matte black would create the best emissivity for the loop.


I had to google that word :/ and I'm even studying engineering.

I think that would look fantastic in combination of that res, and use white fittings.

or do it the other way with black fittings and white painted copper tubing


----------



## mattcube64

Getting closer and closer...



Ordered clear acrylic tubing and black Primochill rigid compression fittings. I'll be filling it with Pastel White Mayhems.

Should look very sexy in my build:


----------



## Destrto

I have another question about these CLSs. If I remove the tubing, obviously the stock fluid drains out. What would be best to replace it with?


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Summer is coming (to Spain)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that a Watercool radiator? 4x 180 mm? Looks nice (and it's the white version?) I would of loved to of gone with the 180mm version, would prefer 8 fans to 18 120mm ones lol.


----------



## Aphid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> I just noticed my XSPC bay res has a bow in the top of it, I remember a convo about this before, what was the outcome?


I had this on my xspc bay res, I couldn't be effed sending it back so I used silicone caulk to fill the gaps. Leak proof for 6months and counting.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have another question about these CLSs. If I remove the tubing, obviously the stock fluid drains out. What would be best to replace it with?


Glycol.
Don't use water,the rads are Alu.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> Was thinking about one of those reservoirs for sure. Had a talk with one of the engineers at work and he said that copper tubing painted matte black would create the best emissivity for the loop.


The dissipation from the tube doesn't have any effect on temps,paint it any colour you like.


----------



## robcowboy73

I am about to start a build and I keep hearing bad news on this res . can some one help point me in the right way this will be my first WC build


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Are you talking about the lip on the bottom left? It looks like he either needs to bend and adjust or it was defective. Besides that good looking backplate and block.


the slot bracket screw is a bit to long or the hole in the plate to low.
Screw needs to be a bit shorter, that´s all








i already contacted shoggy and told him that


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> theres definitely a flex. idk how you can have only four holes to mount a backplate to a waterblock.


there are 2 more screws on the other side what you can´t see on the pic


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Glycol.
> Don't use water,the rads are Alu.


OK, I knew I couldnt just use regular water, thanks for the info.


----------



## derickwm

Clean CSQ tops :wheee:


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Clean CSQ tops






Nice Find, if only they did the motherboard blocks as well. My titan is clear and my cpu and mobo block are CSQ.


----------



## ginger_nuts

They just need clear CSQ bridges now


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Clean CSQ tops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice Find, if only they did the motherboard blocks as well. My titan is clear and my cpu and mobo block are CSQ.
Click to expand...

Coming mobo blocks will feature non-csq options.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> They just need clear CSQ bridges now


----------



## Jakusonfire

I've been waiting for more Supremacy top options to be available from the EK store. What I have been especially looking for is a full Nickel CSQ top for my Nickel + Acetal block.

The colours are a nice option though, any chance of a solid white top again this time?


----------



## derickwm

Yes we will.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Glycol.
> Don't use water,the rads are Alu.


Hey B NEG, you are referring to Ethylene Glycol, correct?


----------



## Yukss

mine


----------



## Seredin

I thought at first that was in a mineral oil bath, inside an aquarium.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> mine


Where might I be able to find/buy one of those OCN Vinyls?


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Where might I be able to find/buy one of those OCN Vinyls?


i was also wondering that


----------



## TampaChaz

Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Case Mods - General Discussion › Looking for overclock.net stickers/decals.

points to the original thread from '09 that is now a dead thread. BUT, someone did a nice vector file that could be used to get one custom cut or get some vinyl and be adventurous!


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> xenomorph113
> Stickeelion


i made it myslef, download the image, revectorized and printed/cuted using a plotter


----------



## PedroC1999

Guys, I tried the tubes through the cable management, and it works great, has a great natural bend across, and is very loose, no kinking


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Guys, I tried the tubes through the cable management, and it works great, has a great natural bend across, and is very loose, no kinking


Nice! Glad it worked out for you.


----------



## superericla

I somehow broke one of the retaining clips for my reservoir, and can't find another online (with reasonable shipping costs). I'm currently holding my reservoir up with one working retaining clip and a stress ball underneath the reservoir. It's working surprisingly well.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Nice! Glad it worked out for you.


Literally, it work great, If I pull or wiggle the tube outside by the res, it wiggles at the bottom freely, the Swicth 810's compartment is huge!






These were from yesterday, its a bit better now


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Literally, it work great, If I pull or wiggle the tube outside by the res, it wiggles at the bottom freely, the Swicth 810's compartment is huge!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These were from yesterday, its a bit better now


Yea I have a Phantom 820 build that I'm currently working on. There is an extraordinary amount of space behind the motherboard tray for cable management. I got a switch 810 full window side panel though. Didn't like the 820 one. I wanted to be able to see all of that water cooled goodness. My build log is in my signature if you are interested. I put all of my updates in the first post so you don't have to go searching for all of them.


----------



## PedroC1999

Looks good, be sure to see mine too, in the sig as well, and my updates are all linked in the 2nd post for the same reason


----------



## MNModder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> Getting closer and closer...
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered clear acrylic tubing and black Primochill rigid compression fittings. I'll be filling it with Pastel White Mayhems.


I've been contemplating purchasing that tubing and those fittings. It would be great if you could post pics and let us know what you think. Can't wait to see how you finish your build looks great so far


----------



## sakerfalcon

My block from FCPU finally arrived, I thought you guys might appreciate some comparison pictures.









#1 top: My project Heatkiller from where it experienced a meltdown from a EK block. It's half-polished.

#2 middle: A Heatkiller grabbed from eBay in the interim, used with distilled + silver coil for a few months.

#3 brand new.




#1


#2


#3


Observations:
New blocks are matte / machined finish, not polished, with heavy mill marks in the channel areas, and brush(?) marks in other areas. My #1 block actually looks out-of-place by comparison. #2 is the usual stain/bruising/oxidation, which Brasso can get rid of easily. Minor tarnishing on the outside due to moisture in shipping. Remember when shipping secondhand blocks to dry wipe everything before throwing it in the mail.


----------



## kcuestag

I'm about to order some new tubing, I have Masterkleer at the moment but I'll go with Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT, and I don't know if I should go red or clear tubing?

This is my current build:



What do you guys think? It would be either red with just distilled water, or clear tubing with mayhems deep red dye.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Started the fun bit of tubing this up,I have not made it easy for myself at all but its all coming together.



Check the ass on that.....mmmmm sexy time.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Using Sabertooth Z77 board is cheating, it's too easy to make them look nice.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> My block from FCPU finally arrived, I thought you guys might appreciate some comparison pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #1 top: My project Heatkiller from where it experienced a meltdown from a EK block. It's half-polished.
> 
> #2 middle: A Heatkiller grabbed from eBay in the interim, used with distilled + silver coil for a few months.
> 
> #3 brand new.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #1
> 
> 
> #2
> 
> 
> #3
> 
> 
> 
> Observations:
> New blocks are matte / machined finish, not polished, with heavy mill marks in the channel areas, and brush(?) marks in other areas. My #1 block actually looks out-of-place by comparison. #2 is the usual stain/bruising/oxidation, which Brasso can get rid of easily. Minor tarnishing on the outside due to moisture in shipping. Remember when shipping secondhand blocks to dry wipe everything before throwing it in the mail.


Thanks for sharing, good info for all








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm about to order some new tubing, I have Masterkleer at the moment but I'll go with Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT, and I don't know if I should go red or clear tubing?
> 
> This is my current build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think? It would be either red with just distilled water, or clear tubing with mayhems deep red dye.


Clear. Then if you're dying for red, get some red dye. Made a killer looking pastel "strawberry" looking color with a mix of EK Red Coolant & White Dragon at work today









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Started the fun bit of tubing this up,I have not made it easy for myself at all but its all coming together.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check the ass on that.....mmmmm sexy time.


Mmm dat copper.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Is that a Watercool radiator? 4x 180 mm? Looks nice (and it's the white version?) I would of loved to of gone with the 180mm version, would prefer 8 fans to 18 120mm ones lol.


This is Watercool MO-RA3 360 PRO white with 8x180 fans P/P. Pratically silent @700rpms.


----------



## lihoudis

guys let me ask you something i am trying to find waterblock for the new gpu i am about to buy gtx 650 but i cant find something good i looked around in a few sites.does anyone know any othr place i can look ?? thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lihoudis*
> 
> guys let me ask you something i am trying to find waterblock for the new gpu i am about to buy gtx 650 but i cant find something good i looked around in a few sites.does anyone know any othr place i can look ?? thanks


Ti or non? You found a block but its not good for you, ? Its a medium-budget card so there may be no full cover block. You can always go universal.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lihoudis*
> 
> guys let me ask you something i am trying to find waterblock for the new gpu i am about to buy gtx 650 but i cant find something good i looked around in a few sites.does anyone know any othr place i can look ?? thanks


Check here...

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

If a block si available, then EK probably have one too


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lihoudis*
> 
> guys let me ask you something i am trying to find waterblock for the new gpu i am about to buy gtx 650 but i cant find something good i looked around in a few sites.does anyone know any othr place i can look ?? thanks


Tbh I'm not sure why you would even want a waterblock for a 650. I don't think it offers much overclocking and it's quite the low end card. A full cover block would likely cost near the cost of the card itself.

You'd be better off buying a 660 or 660ti and running it on air until you can afford a block for it, if they even make full cover blocks for those cards.


----------



## wermad

checked the coolingconfig and couldn't find anything for the gtx 650.

Agreed w/ NewHighScore; card should be cool already. Either go w/ a better card that has a block or go universal.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So with a panel swap,from ITX to HPTX
Need to do a mATX set next,then set about the backplates for each


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So with a panel swap,from ITX to HPTX
> Need to do a mATX set next,then set about the backplates for each


----------



## Modest Mouse

@ Stickeelion


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Double helix? I think you might be looking for one of those FrozenQ reservoirs:
> 
> 
> I think that would look fantastic in your build with some black or white tubing.
> 
> you can also get those reservoirs in pretty much any other colour






Looked at this 250mL res and I only have one reservation about it. If I'm reading the description right the fluid flows around the helix which to me would eliminate the option to dye the fluid. Would that not just block out the helix inside...? Maybe I'm not reading this right. It's most definitely been a long day and I'm not at my brightest right now.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_708&products_id=32108&zenid=7149461cf40f575928537e5a71198b55


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Tbh I'm not sure why you would even want a waterblock for a 650. I don't think it offers much overclocking and it's quite the low end card. A full cover block would likely cost near the cost of the card itself.
> 
> You'd be better off buying a 660 or 660ti and running it on air until you can afford a block for it, if they even make full cover blocks for those cards.


I'm running 2GTX660s in serial using EK blocks. Get nice results from the cards, graphics wise, and temps are nice and cold. I will be updating build log in my sig with new pics and adding benchmarks once i get everyone stable in OC without "Bambi legs"









EDIT: Backplates for the 660s are a no go, but I had mine custom cut and then i had to drill the screw holes myself. Each plate only cost me $12 plus $6 shipping though which was cheaper than $25 per plate plus shipping!


----------



## lihoudis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> checked the coolingconfig and couldn't find anything for the gtx 650.
> 
> Agreed w/ NewHighScore; card should be cool already. Either go w/ a better card that has a block or go universal.


ty guys i will go for the 660


----------



## lihoudis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I'm running 2GTX660s in serial using EK blocks. Get nice results from the cards, graphics wise, and temps are nice and cold. I will be updating build log in my sig with new pics and adding benchmarks once i get everyone stable in OC without "Bambi legs"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Backplates for the 660s are a no go, but I had mine custom cut and then i had to drill the screw holes myself. Each plate only cost me $12 plus $6 shipping though which was cheaper than $25 per plate plus shipping!


very nice man:thumb: i am interesting for the same mod can you pm for details ????


----------



## TampaChaz

Pm has been sent lilhoudis


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> @ Stickeelion
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Double helix? I think you might be looking for one of those FrozenQ reservoirs:
> 
> 
> I think that would look fantastic in your build with some black or white tubing.
> 
> you can also get those reservoirs in pretty much any other colour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked at this 250mL res and I only have one reservation about it. If I'm reading the description right the fluid flows around the helix which to me would eliminate the option to dye the fluid. Would that not just block out the helix inside...? Maybe I'm not reading this right. It's most definitely been a long day and I'm not at my brightest right now.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_708&products_id=32108&zenid=7149461cf40f575928537e5a71198b55
Click to expand...

yes you are correct the helix sit's inside the tube and the water flows around the helix, so if you have an opaque dye such as mayhems pastel range it will completely cover up the helix and you won't see it. Clear or Clear/UV coolant will work fine. I also have seen some pictures where people have used coolants with transparent dye, like most coolants out there which I think give a pretty cool effect, Like someone used red dye in a reservoir that had red and blue helix and with the red dye it looked red and purple, some colours won't look as good but other may work very well


----------



## wermad

I'm running Mayhems Emerald Green and when uv light is lit in my bay res, you can see the fluorescent blue and green helix'. If the uv light goes out, you can barely see the spirals.


----------



## Eze2kiel




----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What case is that? I LOOOOOVE the layout of it.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> What case is that? I LOOOOOVE the layout of it.


All aluminium, my guess its lianli
i've checked out their computex coverage, they've tons of water cooling compatible case coming this year


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> All aluminium, my guess its lianli
> i've checked out their computex coverage, they've tons of water cooling compatible case coming this year


It's definitely a Lian Li... that front panel and the way the rounded edges are done gives it away... but I can't for the life of me figure out which one...









EDIT... found it (I think)... looks like the PC-X1000.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> All aluminium, my guess its lianli
> i've checked out their computex coverage, they've tons of water cooling compatible case coming this year


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It's definitely a Lian Li... that front panel and the way the rounded edges are done gives it away... but I can't for the life of me figure out which one...


Yeah for sure lian li aside from what you mentioned the expansion slot mounting system gives it away for sure... BUT WHICH MODEL! I MUST know! hahaha


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Yeah for sure lian li aside from what you mentioned the expansion slot mounting system gives it away for sure... BUT WHICH MODEL! I MUST know! hahaha


Check my edited post... PC-X1000.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> xenomorph113
> Stickeelion
> 
> 
> 
> i made it myslef, download the image, revectorized and printed/cuted using a plotter
> -snip-
Click to expand...

would you possibly be able to share the revectorized version if the image?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Check my edited post... PC-X1000.


Thank you fine sir! I love the internal layout of the case. For someone like me who doesn't use much storage or optical drives it would be even more awesome without the top portion. I also not a huge fan of the outer aesthetics of the case but nonetheless, it's still damn sweet!


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lihoudis*
> 
> guys let me ask you something i am trying to find waterblock for the new gpu i am about to buy gtx 650 but i cant find something good i looked around in a few sites.does anyone know any othr place i can look ?? thanks
> 
> 
> 
> *Tbh I'm not sure why you would even want a waterblock for a 650.* I don't think it offers much overclocking and it's quite the low end card. A full cover block would likely cost near the cost of the card itself.
> 
> You'd be better off buying a 660 or 660ti and running it on air until you can afford a block for it, if they even make full cover blocks for those cards.
Click to expand...

*Tbh I'm not sure why you would even want a 650.*

first off, no, I don't think they make *full cover* blocks for GTX 660. _maybe_ some rare ones for the reference 660-Ti. In any case, the temps won't be limiting anyone with anything under a 670 and they're cool enough so that you can get away with a dual fan design like ASUS (or else) does.. They're limited by the core or the VRM, not quite sure which. my ASUS 660 spaz out after a low overclock (+30 core and +100 VRAM is the max I seem to be able to push it and stay 100% stable).








I would *highly* suggest saving more for the higher end cards. If you game, you'll probably be very disappointed with a 650. It's just not powerful enough. The next step, the GTX660, isn't quite powerful enough to max everything out that came after 2011. Considering the price of them (about 250$ here), going SLI would cost at least 500$. For $100 to $200 more, you can get a single card that completely blows them away, consumes runs at about the same clocks, and is about as cool as them (the GTX780).
/rant
/walloftext
TLR version:
Don't buy 650 unless you have a very specific reason to. Being impatient is not a valid answer.
Wait more, save your money, and get yourself a 780 or a 670. No point buying a 680 because 670 can overclock enough to catch up, and the 770 is almost a "fraud". it's a rebranded 680 with boost 2.0 on it. The gap is so huge that you can't even begin to catch up the 780 by overclocking. It looks like it's intended.

edit: OMG I reached one million folding points \o/


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lihoudis*
> 
> guys let me ask you something i am trying to find waterblock for the new gpu i am about to buy gtx 650 but i cant find something good i looked around in a few sites.does anyone know any othr place i can look ?? thanks
> 
> 
> 
> *Tbh I'm not sure why you would even want a waterblock for a 650.* I don't think it offers much overclocking and it's quite the low end card. A full cover block would likely cost near the cost of the card itself.
> 
> You'd be better off buying a 660 or 660ti and running it on air until you can afford a block for it, if they even make full cover blocks for those cards.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Tbh I'm not sure why you would even want a 650.*
> 
> first off, no, I don't think they make *full cover* blocks for GTX 660. _maybe_ some rare ones for the reference 660-Ti. In any case, the temps won't be limiting anyone with anything under a 670 and they're cool enough so that you can get away with a dual fan design like ASUS (or else) does.. They're limited by the core or the VRM, not quite sure which. my ASUS 660 spaz out after a low overclock (+30 core and +100 VRAM is the max I seem to be able to push it and stay 100% stable).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would *highly* suggest saving more for the higher end cards. If you game, you'll probably be very disappointed with a 650. It's just not powerful enough. The next step, the GTX660, isn't quite powerful enough to max everything out that came after 2011. Considering the price of them (about 250$ here), going SLI would cost at least 500$. For $100 to $200 more, you can get a single card that completely blows them away, consumes runs at about the same clocks, and is about as cool as them (the GTX780).
> /rant
> /walloftext
> TLR version:
> Don't buy 650 unless you have a very specific reason to. Being impatient is not a valid answer.
> Wait more, save your money, and get yourself a 780 or a 670. No point buying a 680 because 670 can overclock enough to catch up, and the 770 is almost a "fraud". it's a rebranded 680 with boost 2.0 on it. The gap is so huge that you can't even begin to catch up the 780 by overclocking. It looks like it's intended.
> 
> edit: OMG I reached one million folding points \o/
Click to expand...

I completely agree with you, however I do want to say that my mate has a 660-Ti and can run most games maxed out with very playable framerates, he recently did a bench on bioshock infinite and average was around 40fps at max settings, minimum FPS was 12

edit: at 1920x1080 too


----------



## Tarnix

Interesting. I can't max BF3 with constant 60 FPS







the Ti is more powerful, enough to be called a "665", imo. But yeah. _really_ maxed out is going to be hard, with these cards, especially facing games with requirements like Metro. Has anyone looked at the "Recommenced" hardware for Metro; Last Light? it's scary (but good) they even make games with so high "expected hardware"









edit: eventually i'll seal up my case and stop taking it apart, so that I can take pretty pics. x.x Currently trying to find out why I get 50 freaking degrees under load.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Interesting. I can't max BF3 with constant 60 FPS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the Ti is more powerful, enough to be called a "665", imo. But yeah. _really_ maxed out is going to be hard, with these cards, especially facing games with requirements like Metro. Has anyone looked at the "Recommenced" hardware for Metro; Last Light? it's scary (but good) they even make games with so high "expected hardware"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: eventually i'll seal up my case and stop taking it apart, so that I can take pretty pics. x.x Currently trying to find out why I get 50 freaking degrees under load.


I have a feeling bioshock infinite is less intensive than battlefield, also my mate gets up to 90 degrees celcius on his CPU under load. I can't convince him to throw away the stock intel cooler and get something better


----------



## Tarnix

Intel stock cooler?! Great Scott!









Also... I'm late but, nice renders, B-Neg.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It's definitely a Lian Li... that front panel and the way the rounded edges are done gives it away... but I can't for the life of me figure out which one...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT... found it (I think)... looks like the PC-X1000.


Yes, It's the *Lian-Li X1000*


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Thank you fine sir! I love the internal layout of the case. For someone like me who doesn't use much storage or optical drives it would be even more awesome without the top portion. I also not a huge fan of the outer aesthetics of the case but nonetheless, it's still damn sweet!


Maybe something like the PC-V750 would be more along the lines you're looking for then... although I would definitely check out the CaseLabs S5 when it comes out or the SM5/SM8 cases which are out now as alternatives that are _almost_ as 'cheap' as the Lian Li offerings - none of which are truly inexpensive but all are great cases.


----------



## kcuestag

I need the WC guru's to give me some light here. Currently have a HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240 on the bottom of my case with 2x Gentle Typhoon at ~1400RPM on pull mode.

Would it be worth it to change it for an Alphachool UT60 240mm (60mm thickness)? It would run with the same fans at same speed, would I notice any temp improvement? The HWlabs is 29mm vs 60mm from the UT60.

TLR

'Upgrade' to the UT60 or waste of money?


----------



## illuz

Personally, I would upgrade. The fatter the better, but you may want to get faster APs as the thicker the rad, the faster fans = better performance.

I have a 240 monsta and it's damn good with my AP-15s


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I need the WC guru's to give me some light here. Currently have a HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240 on the bottom of my case with 2x Gentle Typhoon at ~1400RPM on pull mode.
> 
> Would it be worth it to change it for an Alphachool UT60 240mm (60mm thickness)? It would run with the same fans at same speed, would I notice any temp improvement? The HWlabs is 29mm vs 60mm from the UT60.
> 
> TLR
> 
> 'Upgrade' to the UT60 or waste of money?


Yes it would be worth it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I need the WC guru's to give me some light here. Currently have a HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240 on the bottom of my case with 2x Gentle Typhoon at ~1400RPM on pull mode.
> 
> Would it be worth it to change it for an Alphachool UT60 240mm (60mm thickness)? It would run with the same fans at same speed, would I notice any temp improvement? The HWlabs is 29mm vs 60mm from the UT60.
> 
> TLR
> 
> 'Upgrade' to the UT60 or waste of money?


You are going to get an improvement of a few c at best.
Is there something wrong with your temps now?


----------



## Stickeelion

the lower FPI rads perform better with lower speed fans 800-1200Rpm approximately, and higher FPI rads are more effective at higher fan speeds


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are going to get an improvement of a few c at best.
> Is there something wrong with your temps now?


Not really, but when I read this thread it makes me feel sick for not upgrading anything in the last month.









Would an UT60 work fine with AP-15's at @1200-1400rpm?

Plus I think my 240mm rad is the worse/cheapest part of my loop by far in terms of quality/price, I feel like adding a decent RAD there, not sure if this current Black Ice GTS 240 is good enough.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It will work fine with those fans,no issue there.

If you want to upgrade for the sake of upgrading,then its all good,otherwise...probably not going to give the kind of increases to make it worthwhile.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I need the WC guru's to give me some light here. Currently have a HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240 on the bottom of my case with 2x Gentle Typhoon at ~1400RPM on pull mode.
> 
> Would it be worth it to change it for an Alphachool UT60 240mm (60mm thickness)? It would run with the same fans at same speed, would I notice any temp improvement? The HWlabs is 29mm vs 60mm from the UT60.
> 
> TLR
> 
> 'Upgrade' to the UT60 or waste of money?


Your current radiator has a very high fin density. I would guess that 1400 rpm fans are not enough for it. But I still doubt you'll see a measurable difference going to a thicker radiator. A thicker radiator may be able to dissipate a handful of watts more than other radiators, but it really isn't a big deal. If you saw a 1C decrease in water temps I'd be surprised. Adding 2 more fans in push would be more beneficial.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I need the WC guru's to give me some light here. Currently have a HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240 on the bottom of my case with 2x Gentle Typhoon at ~1400RPM on pull mode.
> 
> Would it be worth it to change it for an Alphachool UT60 240mm (60mm thickness)? It would run with the same fans at same speed, would I notice any temp improvement? The HWlabs is 29mm vs 60mm from the UT60.
> 
> TLR
> 
> 'Upgrade' to the UT60 or waste of money?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your current radiator has a very high fin density. I would guess that 1400 rpm fans are not enough for it. But I still doubt you'll see a measurable difference going to a thicker radiator. A thicker radiator may be able to dissipate a handful of watts more than other radiators, but it really isn't a big deal. If you saw a 1C decrease in water temps I'd be surprised. *Adding 2 more fans in push would be more beneficial.[/*quote]
> 
> +1
> 
> Add 2 more AP15's first and see what you gain.
> 
> Then at least you have them if you still want to go to a 60mm thick rad which really benefits from P-P.
> 
> Black Ice rads are among the finest made in build quality and finish, it's definitely not a "cheap" part of your system.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...


----------



## Destrto

I have a quick question with water block compatibility for the Northbridge of an ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0.

I'm looking at THIS and it looks like it is awfully close to the same layout of the M5A99FX PRO bridges. But it says that it is specifically for the Crosshair III Formula model board.

I was wondering if anyone happened to know if the layout is similar between these 2 boards, and if so, would this water block fit on the M5A99FX?

I'm putting together a wishlist of water cooling accessories with the board I currently have. (If the day came where I decided to build a WC system, I would probably upgrade to a better board altogether) but for now, I'm just curious to know if that block will fit this board.


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks *lowfat* and *IT Diva* for the suggestions.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So with a panel swap,from ITX to HPTX
> Need to do a mATX set next,then set about the backplates for each


Cant wait to see it in ATX, Now you can take my money! nice work.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Not really, but when I read this thread it makes me feel sick for not upgrading anything in the last month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would an UT60 work fine with AP-15's at @1200-1400rpm?
> 
> Plus I think my 240mm rad is the worse/cheapest part of my loop by far in terms of quality/price, I feel like adding a decent RAD there, not sure if this current Black Ice GTS 240 is good enough.


And people say that WC is addictive...









i always wonder, what will happen to all of us in the future because of this addiction?


----------



## nleksan

Copper will become so expensive that people have to make their loops out of Platinum and Titanium for budgetary reasons


----------



## lihoudis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Copper will become so expensive that people have to make their loops out of Platinum and Titanium for budgetary reasons


lol true !!!!!!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Copper will become so expensive that people have to make their loops out of Platinum and Titanium for budgetary reasons


i will set a life goal to live to that day. (and obviously make 3 loops: one of each metal)

btw, does it mean that "Corsair Platinum" is the lowest range


----------



## wermad

Now just need that 900D to arrive


----------



## PedroC1999

EYEGASM!!!

Looks Great!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Now just need that 900D to arrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chomuco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOOOOOVE the layout of it god!! toxico..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Added 120 support and an extra 120 in the bay,This is the ITX version.
Also possible 140 rad support.


----------



## wermad

A bit of a pita to install the bridge. I ended up installing outside because it was easier that way. The bridge is very reminiscent of the HK bridge but the o-rings don't stay in place. I had some silicone grease on hand and that helped. Then just slipped them all in.




Btw, all plexi tops had no cracking


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Added 120 support and an extra 120 in the bay,This is the ITX version.
> Also possible 140 rad support.


I really like the look of these, you're doing an awesome job









When do you think you'll have them finalised and ready for manufacture?


----------



## Gleniu

Water cooled Corsair 540









http://www.overclock.net/t/1402099/build-log-watercooled-corsair-carbide-series-air-540/20#post_20227929


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Water cooled Corsair 540
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1402099/build-log-watercooled-corsair-carbide-series-air-540/20#post_20227929


Awesome! First 540 wc I've seen (outside PR stuff).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That 540...what an awesome little case...


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A bit of a pita to install the bridge. I ended up installing outside because it was easier that way. The bridge is very reminiscent of the HK bridge but the o-rings don't stay in place. I had some silicone grease on hand and that helped. Then just slipped them all in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, all plexi tops had no cracking






Nice. However I give your graphics cards 3 months before you change them again lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Nice. However I give your graphics cards 3 months before you change them again lol.


Lol, I won't be going any where different any time soon (after the 900d). Promised wife a bigger family car and that's what's going to preoccupy our money pretty soon. Atenza estate is cramped with two baby seats and a chihuahua in the middle







. Might go all-american w/ a honking big-o suv (tohoe/burb, expedition/navigator, or armada). No way in hell I'm doing a mini-van


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, I won't be going any where different any time soon (after the 900d). Promised wife a bigger family car and that's what's going to preoccupy our money pretty soon. Atenza estate is cramped with two baby seats and a chihuahua in the middle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Might go all-american w/ a honking big-o suv (tohoe/burb, expedition/navigator, or armada). No way in hell I'm doing a mini-van


What about the Dodge Magnum? More room than a sedan, but not a big-o-honkin' SUV either.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A bit of a pita to install the bridge. I ended up installing outside because it was easier that way. The bridge is very reminiscent of the HK bridge but the o-rings don't stay in place. I had some silicone grease on hand and that helped. Then just slipped them all in.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, all plexi tops had no cracking


Find the EK recent bridge pretty funny though compare to the older one
dont you think that small holes really put some restriction rather than normal size tube hole on the older bridge?


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, I won't be going any where different any time soon (after the 900d). Promised wife a bigger family car and that's what's going to preoccupy our money pretty soon. Atenza estate is cramped with two baby seats and a chihuahua in the middle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Might go all-american w/ a honking big-o suv (tohoe/burb, expedition/navigator, or armada). No way in hell I'm doing a mini-van


MiniVan.....just typing it gave me the willies! Back when my son was in school (yeah I'm THAT old) I had a Honkin Big Ole Dodge RAM250 hightop conversion van. I upgraded the RV style TV screen and VCR with an XBox and Wii on a 24" flat screen. that V12 ate some serious gas! Now the kid is grown and on his own and Daddy gets to play!


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What about the *Dodge Magnum*? More room than a sedan, but not a big-o-honkin' SUV either.


That's what I got and I love it! Enough room for everything I need.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, I won't be going any where different any time soon (after the 900d). Promised wife a bigger family car and that's what's going to preoccupy our money pretty soon. Atenza estate is cramped with two baby seats and a chihuahua in the middle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Might go all-american w/ a honking big-o suv (tohoe/burb, expedition/navigator, or armada). No way in hell I'm doing a mini-van


Wuuuuut. Minivans are awesome. Totally ninja. Noone will ever look at you. That's the way I like it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What about the Dodge Magnum? More room than a sedan, but not a big-o-honkin' SUV either.


I will get flamed for this but.......

Japanese or get out.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What about the Dodge Magnum? More room than a sedan, but not a big-o-honkin' SUV either.


That was on our list before we went w/ the Atenza. I dropped it since early Magnums were plagued with issues and recalls. Now, I would only settle for the SRT8 w/ the 300C SRT8 wheels







. Still, need the space of a large suv. Will be a weekend/spare car.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> MiniVan.....just typing it gave me the willies! Back when my son was in school (yeah I'm THAT old) I had a Honkin Big Ole Dodge RAM250 hightop conversion van. I upgraded the RV style TV screen and VCR with an XBox and Wii on a 24" flat screen. that V12 ate some serious gas! Now the kid is grown and on his own and Daddy gets to play!


Nice!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> That's what I got and I love it! Enough room for everything I need.


Its a great looking car but Chrysler/Dodge is known for being flaky. There trucks are pretty solid though, but we've decided on the space of a dinasour large suv









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Find the EK recent bridge pretty funny though compare to the older one
> dont you think that small holes really put some restriction rather than normal size tube hole on the older bridge?


Its pretty much the same style as the HK bridge. It does look a bit restrictive but its pretty much the only way to get a bridge on without going back to the links. Which I think they're very impractical.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Finally got most of my new watercooling parts. Ditched my old Rasa kit pump/res combo for a bitspower res and Swiftect MCP655 pump. Will be buying some compression fitting in the next week to clean up the loop and rid myself of some of the extremely tight tube routes. But here it is in its current state. Haha ignore the white led xigmatec fan. One of my AP-15's came DoA so I had to improvise.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> I will get flamed for this but.......
> 
> Japanese or get out.


I actually prefer japanese cars as well. Was just offering a different option than SUV.. But he needs bigger space. *shrug*


----------



## wermad

My insurance is cheaper w/ domestic and the only large Japanese suv (I believe they're built here







) are the Armada and Sequoia. I like the Armada but Nissans are known to be flaky (I know first hand







) and the 1st gen Sequoia aren't really appealing to us. Plus, they tend to sell for more. Either way, they're all gas guzzlers and we just need something as a spare and weekend vehicle.

If I had my choice and the money, i would go with a Flex







I like funky and square









Ok, enough from me cus this is going off-topic.

No leaks so far. I tightened the screws on bridge very carefully as I was warned the plexi top can crack. No leaks after a couple of hours so I fired her up and the gpu(s) are idling in the mid 20s


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Wuuuuut. Minivans are awesome. Totally ninja. Noone will ever look at you. That's the way I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will get flamed for this but.......
> 
> Japanese German or get out.


/Fixed


----------



## sebar

Hello guys, I need a little help planning my next build. I got a Corsair 350D in the mail today. After examining the case I have determined that the max rad thickness I can use in the top of the case with a maximus gene motherboard is 30MM because of the placement of the eps power connection. What is available in a 280 rad that is 30mm thick? Any suggestions will be appreciated.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hello guys, I need a little help planning my next build. I got a Corsair 350D in the mail today. After examining the case I have determined that the max rad thickness I can use in the top of the case with a maximus gene motherboard is 30MM because of the placement of the eps power connection. What is available in a 280 rad that is 30mm thick? Any suggestions will be appreciated.


Alphacool Nexxxos ST30. Not sure how it performs against other 30mm thick rads but you should be able to run low RPM fans with it if silence is your thing.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Alphacool Nexxxos ST30. Not sure how it performs against other 30mm thick rads but you should be able to run low RPM fans with it if silence is your thing.


Thanks for the quick reply. The only thing I could find was MagiCool SLIM DUAL 280 MC Radiator. I was hoping for a 280 rad, I don't think the ST30's are available in 280.


----------



## lowfat

AFAIK the only 2x140mm radiators that will fit Corsair cases are HWLabs. The only quiet good HWLabs radiator is the SR-1 and unfortunately it will not fit. So you are going to have to stick w/ using 2x120mm radiators unless you don't care about noise. In that case grab a Black Ice Stealth and a pair of 1800+ RPM fans.


----------



## sebar

I would prefer quiet over performance. It will not be much trouble to use a 240 rad so that is always an option. I wave an XSPC EX20 that I can use as a reference. If possible I would like to keep to the same manufacturer in my builds. The Alpha cool ST30 paired with a UT 60 might be a good combo.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Hey Wermad how did you secure the bottom horizontal 480 rad in your old 800D build?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Hey Wermad how did you secure the bottom horizontal 480 rad in your old 800D build?


It actually just barely made it. I had to de-rivet the bottom section and then placed the rad inside. Its a nice snug fit so it really didn't need any securing.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It actually just barely made it. I had to de-rivet the bottom section and then placed the rad inside. Its a nice snug fit so it really didn't need any securing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh, that's a lot simpler than I thought. Maybe I can get away using medium-strength velcro.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Oh, that's a lot simpler than I thought. Maybe I can get away using medium-strength velcro.


I did add the soft side of some velcro to avoid scraping off the RX480s paint.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I did add the soft side of some velcro to avoid scraping off the RX480s paint.


Does the adhesive of the velcro strip peel away paint if removed?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Does the adhesive of the velcro strip peel away paint if removed?


I always heat up the velcro a bit to loosen the adhesive and avoid stripping the paint.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Finally got most of my new watercooling parts. Ditched my old Rasa kit pump/res combo for a bitspower res and Swiftect MCP655 pump. Will be buying some compression fitting in the next week to clean up the loop and rid myself of some of the extremely tight tube routes. But here it is in its current state. Haha ignore the white led xigmatec fan. One of my AP-15's came DoA so I had to improvise.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking almost squeaky clean to me


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Edit: wrong thread lol


----------



## Pebruska

So, could you guys give me a little push?







See, I have a problem, well decision to make, right now as i'm writing this there's few items in my shopping cart, what is it, you ask?









Well it's ingredients for a sff build, ofcourse









Now the problem is that i keep thinking that "what if i just cram my arc midi full of rad and be done with it", then all my components would be nice and cool.








"But then again, if i buy this and this, I would have a beast mitx rig WITH WATERCOOLING







" And that would just be kewl








The compromise in the small rig would be that i won't be able to overclock it that much.







I probably would oc my gpu first and then see how much i can overclock the cpu before the temps are too damn high.









So lets have it, give me a good reason to go either way... Or just ignore me


----------



## illuz

Do you take your PC anywhere or is it a small room so you prefer a small pc?

If not, go big. Bigggg wc setup


----------



## subsven

+1

Go big or go home.

I bought a Corsair 600t for my latest build. Originally got an H100 to cool it, but all that did was plant the seed. A few weeks later dropped all kinds of rads and fittings into the case, but because of how small it was I couldn't get all the fans I needed. Finally just mounted an RX480 behind my desk with 4 fans on it, and my GPUs (2x 670 FTWs) both idle at 18-19c, and my i7 3770k idles at 35c @ 4.8 Ghz and 1.32v. :-D


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> Do you take your PC anywhere or is it a small room so you prefer a small pc?
> 
> If not, go big. Bigggg wc setup


Well very very rarely and it is pretty small room but my current case fits just fine.

I really like the idea of as much hp per tonne as possible








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> +1
> 
> Go big or go home.
> 
> I bought a Corsair 600t for my latest build. Originally got an H100 to cool it, but all that did was plant the seed. A few weeks later dropped all kinds of rads and fittings into the case, but because of how small it was I couldn't get all the fans I needed. Finally just mounted an RX480 behind my desk with 4 fans on it, and my GPUs (2x 670 FTWs) both idle at 18-19c, and my i7 3770k idles at 35c @ 4.8 Ghz and 1.32v. :-D


Nice







But if i go with external rad, i most definitely go with mitx.
On the plus side, if i just wc my current rig, it would be a little cheaper (Edit: Both would be very close to each other, $$$ wise)


----------



## macandy13

I have an idea for a cage enclosure but I'm interested to see what you guys think on it











I've gone with orange on blue as thats the sort of theme I already have. It's not final yet as the colours may seem quite in you're face and it depends on the colour of acrylic I can get my hands on for fairly cheap.


----------



## ajs89

new looks,


----------



## SortOfGrim

!WIP!

As you can see I flipped the micro res, just to see if it would create less bubbles. It doesn't. At least not when the pump goes on full blast.
But the sponge does it work

Well back to work!


----------



## lowfat

That is too little restriction for a DDC. I would never run that at full speed. Likely a good way to kill the pump.

EDIT: Is that a single weird loop or two loops?


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That is too little restriction for a DDC. I would never run that at full speed. Likely a good way to kill the pump.
> 
> EDIT: Is that a single weird loop or two loops?


No mcp was harmed during this test.
it's a single weird loop. why? cause I'm weird

What pump would you recommend, lowfat?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Now just need that 900D to arrive


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That is too little restriction for a DDC. I would never run that at full speed. Likely a good way to kill the pump.
> 
> EDIT: Is that a single weird loop or two loops?


Its fine,the OH issues are only relevant to the 18w+ versions and thats normally the CPU only loop users
That loop is just fine for a DDC.


----------



## siffonen

Started today my 900D build, hard to decide that where i should put my rads. Planned to put a 360 in front, 480 to bottom and 120 to rear, but 360 wont probably fit to front, atleast with all 3 fans attached.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its fine,the OH issues are only relevant to the 18w+ versions and thats normally the CPU only loop users
> That loop is just fine for a DDC.


When I first looked at the loop I thought it was two separate loops, so I thought he was using an MCP35X for just the GPU.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its fine,the OH issues are only relevant to the 18w+ versions and thats normally the CPU only loop users
> That loop is just fine for a DDC.


phew, thanx for response. +rep


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> !WIP!
> 
> As you can see I flipped the micro res, just to see if it would create less bubbles. It doesn't. At least not when the pump goes on full blast.
> But the sponge does it work
> 
> Well back to work!


really lovin' the look of the straight tubes of the loop. Also, the res place works surprisingly well Aesthetically IMO. (And that M-ATX board looks so cute in that full tower)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its fine,the OH issues are only relevant to the 18w+ versions and thats normally the CPU only loop users
> That loop is just fine for a DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> When I first looked at the loop I thought it was two separate loops, so I thought he was using an MCP35X for just the GPU.
Click to expand...

Ah,for that situation,you are correct,that 35X will not last long like that


----------



## derickwm

Got an old friend back and a new friend to join him


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> I have an idea for a cage enclosure but I'm interested to see what you guys think on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've gone with orange on blue as thats the sort of theme I already have. It's not final yet as the colours may seem quite in you're face and it depends on the colour of acrylic I can get my hands on for fairly cheap.


I actually had that type of black acrylic enclosure in my haf x. It looks pretty sleek but i personally didn't like it in my setup, but go for it and see what it looks like (acrylic is quite cheap!).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Started today my 900D build, hard to decide that where i should put my rads. Planned to put a 360 in front, 480 to bottom and 120 to rear, but 360 wont probably fit to front, atleast with all 3 fans attached.


Build log? Nice to see some finnish dudes here







Hyvin menee!


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Build log? Nice to see some finnish dudes here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hyvin menee!


Havent planned doing a build log, just trying to move all the parts to a new case.
Nice to see Finnish dudes here also







Hyvää juhannusta!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Got an old friend back and a new friend to join him


one of us,one of us,one of us......


----------



## derickwm

3rd one's the charm right?


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> I actually had that type of black acrylic enclosure in my haf x. It looks pretty sleek but i personally didn't like it in my setup, but go for it and see what it looks like (acrylic is quite cheap!).


Thanks, what would be best to mount the acrylic in the case without having to use scews or that? I would like to be able to remove it to perform maintenance etc.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ah,for that situation,you are correct,that 35X will not last long like that


Can you explain why it wouldn't?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Started today my 900D build, hard to decide that where i should put my rads. Planned to put a 360 in front, 480 to bottom and 120 to rear, but 360 wont probably fit to front, atleast with all 3 fans attached.


Awesome









Mine arrives tomorrow. Verdict day if the Monsta 480 will fit









BTW: 35x >cpu>gpu>gpu>gpu>gpu>monsta 480>monsta480>monsta480>res>res. Nuff said


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Thanks, what would be best to mount the acrylic in the case without having to use scews or that? I would like to be able to remove it to perform maintenance etc.


Well if you are still keeping the 5,25'' bays in place, then some velcro could do it since the acrylic is pretty lightweight and it could be removed for maintenance.
Mounting it with screws would make it more solid an removable (but not as sleek), but remember to use some dampening material between the acrylic and the metal to eliminate resonance.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Well if you are still keeping the 5,25'' bays in place, then some velcro could do it since the acrylic is pretty lightweight and it could be removed for maintenance.
> Mounting it with screws would make it more solid an removable (but not as sleek), but remember to use some dampening material between the acrylic and the metal to eliminate resonance.


Great, cheers


----------



## PedroC1999

My D5 was faulty, sending it back and rig is on hold again


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Can you explain why it wouldn't?


With a DDC the lower the restriction the faster the pump runs. The faster it runs the hotter the PCB gets. Since the the PCB doesn't get cooled by the water it can get too hot and blow. This generally only happens if you are running a single block in the loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Can you explain why it wouldn't?
> 
> 
> 
> With a DDC the lower the restriction the faster the pump runs. The faster it runs the hotter the PCB gets. Since the the PCB doesn't get cooled by the water it can get too hot and blow. This generally only happens if you are running a single block in the loop.
Click to expand...

This is an accurate description of the weakness in the higher powered DDC pumps.








The 10w does not suffer with this failing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is an accurate description of the weakness in the higher powered DDC pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 10w does not suffer with this failing.


This is why I slapped a heat sink on mine. It does a great job of keeping my MCP35X2 running cool in all situations.


----------



## SortOfGrim

edit: ordered a heatsink


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I'm about to have 4 rads in my loop cooling a single 3770k with an Apogee HD block. Pump is a swiftech MCP655b. Am I in danger of my pump getting too hot since there is only one block? I don't have enough money to afford my GPU blocks yet. There is 1080mm of rad space total.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'm about to have 4 rads in my loop cooling a single 3770k with an Apogee HD block. Pump is a swiftech MCP655b. Am I in danger of my pump getting too hot since there is only one block? I don't have enough money to afford my GPU blocks yet. There is 1080mm of rad space total.


MCP655b is not a DDC pump, no problems there


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is an accurate description of the weakness in the higher powered DDC pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 10w does not suffer with this failing.
> 
> 
> 
> This is why I slapped a heat sink on mine. It does a great job of keeping my MCP35X2 running cool in all situations.
Click to expand...

Maybe Swiftech should of done this as stock instead of making people pay for something that is so obviously needed?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Can you explain why it wouldn't?
> 
> 
> 
> With a DDC the lower the restriction the faster the pump runs. The faster it runs the hotter the PCB gets. Since the the PCB doesn't get cooled by the water it can get too hot and blow. This generally only happens if you are running a single block in the loop.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is an accurate description of the weakness in the higher powered DDC pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 10w does not suffer with this failing.
Click to expand...

With that reasoning, the 35X should not be affected then, as it's speed is held under control by the electronics, and is not load dependent.

To some extent, adding restriction, or load, while slowing the speed a bit, should also serve to cause greater current draw, which would increase the heat it generates.

The fact that it's so compact with so little surface area to radiate the heat away or transfer it to the coolant is an inherent design weakness that they gouge you extra $ for to buy the heatsink.

Darlene


----------



## hammerforged

Started a new build today.



LINK

NOTICE: WILL CONTAIN COPPER PIPE


----------



## wermad

I actually had my 35x running my cpu only for a few weeks. No problems and was pretty much warm as usual







. Its running all gpu(s) now so its got the restriction on it







.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quick question, Is there any reason other than size to go with a swiftech apogee drive II? Any reason not to go with one? Thanks!


----------



## Destrto

HEy guys, finished with all my mods.. Just thought I would share my excitement!!



AWESOMENESS!!


----------



## ginger_nuts

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/120-H630.html

Anyone else seen this new NZXT case, and thought Hmmmm







?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/120-H630.html
> 
> Anyone else seen this new NZXT case, and thought Hmmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


I usually like the look of NZXT latest cases but I think this one is ugly as sin!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I usually like the look of NZXT latest cases but I think this one is ugly as sin!


I'd have to say I'm the exact opposite on this one... I normally HATE the look of NZXT cases... but this one doesn't rape my eyes nearly as much! (Though I can't say I'm really a fan of _anything_ that uses plastic for anything other than a window).


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/120-H630.html
> 
> Anyone else seen this new NZXT case, and thought Hmmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


It's square, it's plain...a couple of acrylic side windows it would look like a Scion xB!
Why NZXT? Why? Why? Did the R&D team run out of RedBull?


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I'd have to say I'm the exact opposite on this one... I normally HATE the look of NZXT cases... but this one doesn't rape my eyes nearly as much! (Though I can't say I'm really a fan of _anything_ that uses plastic for anything other than a window).


I might suggest that you avoid my builds then. I'm a serial "eye rapist"! I love me some sparklies!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I might suggest that you avoid my builds then. I'm a serial "eye rapist"! I love me some sparklies!


Yes, I think the name "Phantom Blood" is the description for the fluid that drips from my eyes while looking at your build... it _is_ very well done however - but yes, I do cringe at every single picture of it.


----------



## TampaChaz

I will take that as a compliment...i think.lol


----------



## wermad

Any one remember the nzxt Khaos aluminum case? msrp $400.....now for $140 + s/h:

http://www.amazon.com/KHAOS-Classic-Series-Aluminium-Chassis/dp/B001B8OGZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371775929&sr=8-1&keywords=NZXT+KHAOS



Too late for me and it really wouldn't have fit my bill tbh.


----------



## Muskaos

Not a big fan of lights and other bling in a case, either, but I also can admire when it is well done.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one remember the nzxt Khaos aluminum case? msrp $400.....now for $140 + s/h:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/KHAOS-Classic-Series-Aluminium-Chassis/dp/B001B8OGZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371775929&sr=8-1&keywords=NZXT+KHAOS
> 
> 
> 
> Too late for me and it really wouldn't have fit my bill tbh.


What were they smoking?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> What were they smoking?


Something good.


----------



## wermad

Its an older design. I guess NZXT was trying to persuade some Lian Li customers back then.

Gosh, when i got back into pc modding in 2009, I saw it for the first time. Very unique since it was aluminum and NZXT usually had steel cases.


----------



## socketus

Reading up on the Khaos - aluminum screws, 34 lbs for a 24" by 24" by 9" enclosure, 2 and 3mm thick aluminum .... and that weird front casters/rear feet. Looks like NZXT was stumbling to the 810. Interesting, with the tri-fan setup in front of the mobo, foldable mobo tray, dual psu mounts.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> HEy guys, finished with all my mods.. Just thought I would share my excitement!!
> 
> 
> 
> AWESOMENESS!!


Nice man! Good job!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Nice man! Good job!


Thanks! appreciate it!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its an older design. I guess NZXT was trying to persuade some Lian Li customers back then.
> 
> Gosh, when i got back into pc modding in 2009, I saw it for the first time. Very unique since it was aluminum and NZXT usually had steel cases.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I do recall looking at the Khaos when it was released back then.
It did have a lot of good things going for it, imo.
It's the batmobile doors I have a hard time with


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Thanks, what would be best to mount the acrylic in the case without having to use scews or that? I would like to be able to remove it to perform maintenance etc.


Shoot me a PM I have cut acrylic for my HAF X in the past and did not use screws you need to make exact cuts and it will just slide in and out.


----------



## Red1776

The last pieces for the Holodeck remodel just got here.

BTW I ordered my sleeving from a new OCN sponsor/vendor and the customer service has been great.
I ordered a three color themed sleeving arrangement and their specialty tools

http://lutro0-customs.com/collections/sleevingtools

and the reservoir(s) came in


----------



## lihoudis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Nice man! Good job!


very good work !!!enjoy it


----------



## Ash2097

Made a few changes:


----------



## derickwm

Sexy.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*


awesome photo this


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> awesome photo this


Thanks, I like the light coming across.


----------



## wermad

@Ash2097, very clean man









Waiting for my new case


----------



## derickwm

I think that motherboard might be a record for you wermad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I think that motherboard might be a record for you wermad


On board audio makes it really hard to let go







. Still chugging along w/ my SB









You get the Monsta rads over the pond yet? Nervous on my sole Monsta and the new case


----------



## derickwm

Nah I'm keeping them in WA. Have a Pedestal on the way for my STH10 so I can put them in there 

When does your case come in?


----------



## kcuestag

Do you guys know if 2x Gentle Typhoon at ~1400-1500RPM will be enough for an Alphachool Monsta 240mm rad?

I'm getting it next week and I'm wondering if I'll need another pair of fans or not for p/p (I don't have 4, just 2 atm), right now I'm using the HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240 which has 30fpi and I'm running them at ~1400rpm, wondering if the Monsta will perform good with just 2 pull (or push) AP-15's.


----------



## Jetskyer

I recon they'll do quite ok. The Monsta only has an FPI of around 11 or 12 so you definitely wouldn't get worse temps with the monsta. To see a gain in temps (which is the reason of the upgrade to the monsta?) I think pushpull would be needed. But it doesn't hurt to first try it? If you want more performance you can always order to more GT's.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Do you guys know if 2x Gentle Typhoon at ~1400-1500RPM will be enough for an Alphachool Monsta 240mm rad?
> 
> I'm getting it next week and I'm wondering if I'll need another pair of fans or not for p/p (I don't have 4, just 2 atm), right now I'm using the HWLabs Black Ice GTS 240 which has 30fpi and I'm running them at ~1400rpm, wondering if the Monsta will perform good with just 2 pull (or push) AP-15's.


They will work just fine for that rad,I think that P/P is massively overrated personally,I have not seen improvement worth the added cost of the 2 fans,people will disagree but im only saying what i see.

As for performance,I cant see you getting much improvement over the 240 you already have,we can talk hypothetical numbers all day but they rarely match RL use.

Do some testing and report back about it Kcue?


----------



## illuz

I use a 240 with 2 AP-15s and it's fine, excellent temps in fact.


----------



## ugotd8

Speaking of AP15s...  I just put a loop into an 800d. RX240 on the bottom with two AP15s, RX360 at the top with SP120s. So far so good.


----------



## PedroC1999

Oh yeah, the Swiftech Hilex (AP-15's) are quieter on full speed than my old SP120's on lowest speed, so great


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They will work just fine for that rad,I think that P/P is massively overrated personally,I have not seen improvement worth the added cost of the 2 fans,people will disagree but im only saying what i see.
> 
> As for performance,I cant see you getting much improvement over the 240 you already have,we can talk hypothetical numbers all day but they rarely match RL use.
> 
> Do some testing and report back about it Kcue?


Will do, I promise.









I guess I'll try with just 2 fans for now, that extra cash will come very handy for my driving lessons.









Would you recommend push or pull?


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Will do, I promise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I'll try with just 2 fans for now, that extra cash will come very handy for my driving lessons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you recommend push or pull?


From everything I have read, most people find push>pull, so I would recommend push!

(Someone correct me if this is wrong)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They will work just fine for that rad,I think that P/P is massively overrated personally,I have not seen improvement worth the added cost of the 2 fans,people will disagree but im only saying what i see.
> 
> As for performance,I cant see you getting much improvement over the 240 you already have,we can talk hypothetical numbers all day but they rarely match RL use.
> 
> Do some testing and report back about it Kcue?
> 
> 
> 
> Will do, I promise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I'll try with just 2 fans for now, that extra cash will come very handy for my driving lessons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you recommend push or pull?
Click to expand...

Pull does have a slight (very slight) advantage of not having a dead spot like push.
I tend to have everything push as it tends to show the fans off.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull does have a slight (very slight) advantage of not having a dead spot like push.
> I tend to have everything push as it tends to show the fans off.


In this case it'd be pull so fans are on top of the rad.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Ash2097, very clean man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for my new case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sadly I'm in the same boat waiting for my case to arrive but mine won't arrive till late next week!


----------



## Pebruska

If any of you guys have knowledge of rads and fans or insane math head, could you answer this question?

Which performs better, 140mm monsta rad with nf-a14 flx (p/p) or 120mm monsta with ap121 (p/p)?


----------



## Bucshman

I wasn't happy with just my pull EX360 cooling my cpu and gpu, so I went out and got a new case. Now with push-pull RX 360 up top and push-pull EX360 in the front.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Still need to finish my 24 pin cable, Just figured I would show it off here.
I didn't notice that big kink in the line till I took the pictures, its replaced and leak testing again.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Hey guys I would really appreciate it if some of you chimed in for some help!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1402877/first-time-wcing-gear-choices


----------



## sdcalihusker

Hey guys, I'm about to update my loop from barbs to compression fittings, and thought about changing around the loop order. Based on the equipment in my signature rig below (810 Switch), I want to go from this:
res-->CPU-->360 Rad-->GPU-->240 Rad-->res

To this:

res-->CPU-->GPU-->360 Rad-->240 Rad-->res

The pump is in the reservoir. Would I benefit in temps changing the configuration? As it sits right now, I get good cooling on both CPU and GPUs. I would imagine the temp might go up a few degrees on the GPUs (max out at 44C in current config during gaming). I'm just wondering if changing it up would improve temps to the CPU?


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice Case! What is the thing-device in the middle of the picture where a lot of cables come together?


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> If any of you guys have knowledge of rads and fans or insane math head, could you answer this question?
> 
> Which performs better, 140mm monsta rad with nf-a14 flx (p/p) or 120mm monsta with ap121 (p/p)?


The 140 has overall far more surface area, so it comes down to the fans. At full speed, the NF-A14s would probably win purely because of airflow. The AP121s static pressure might be very slightly better but it probably wouldn't justify a 1/2 drop in airflow (from the NF-A14s).


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice Case! What is the thing-device in the middle of the picture where a lot of cables come together?
Click to expand...

I think that's a "fan hub", very similar to the NZXT Grid. I would say it is a Grid, but it looks quite different.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> I think that's a "fan hub", very similar to the NZXT Grid. I would say it is a Grid, but it looks quite different.


Yeah, it's just a fan hub that's powered by a single Molex connector. It doesn't have any control functionality, so the fans plugged into it will will just run at full speed.


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> The 140 has overall far more surface area, so it comes down to the fans. At full speed, the NF-A14s would probably win purely because of airflow. The AP121s static pressure might be very slightly better but it probably wouldn't justify a 1/2 drop in airflow (from the NF-A14s).


Thank you, that helps. rep+


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They will work just fine for that rad,I think that P/P is massively overrated personally,I have not seen improvement worth the added cost of the 2 fans,people will disagree but im only saying what i see.
> 
> As for performance,I cant see you getting much improvement over the 240 you already have,we can talk hypothetical numbers all day but they rarely match RL use.
> 
> Do some testing and report back about it Kcue?


I've found the same thing... although I'll be running P/P on my pedestal rads... mostly because I can, but also because the one place I have noticed an improvement over single fan placement is in congested airspaces, and with very slow fan speeds. Although P/P @ 700RPM is nowhere near as good as single fans at 1400RPM (performance wise)... they are much closer to the performance of single fans at 1000RPM (at least in my experiments).

I also found that with good airflow space (in MB area for example) they offer almost no improvement, but in areas where the intake or the exhaust area is fairly congested (either by other cooling gear, or by cables, etc.) running P/P seems to give a little more of an advantage. Assumedly it just helps create some more turbulence in the airspace, thus making it easier/more likely for the exhausted air to escape the confines of the case itself - but that's just a guess on my part.


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Very nice Case! What is the thing-device in the middle of the picture where a lot of cables come together?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> I think that's a "fan hub", very similar to the NZXT Grid. I would say it is a Grid, but it looks quite different.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yeah, it's just a fan hub that's powered by a single Molex connector. It doesn't have any control functionality, so the fans plugged into it will will just run at full speed.


It's a Swiftech PWM fan hub, it does run off a single molex for power. But it also connects to the mother board with a 4pin fan cable, so you can control all the fans thru it. I have all 12 fans running off it, I used 6 PWM splitter cables. Works great found it on a whim looking around ppc's site, wanted something different than a regular fan controller.

Click


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> I wasn't happy with just my pull EX360 cooling my cpu and gpu, so I went out and got a new case. Now with push-pull RX 360 up top and push-pull EX360 in the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to finish my 24 pin cable, Just figured I would show it off here.
> I didn't notice that big kink in the line till I took the pictures, its replaced and leak testing again.


what case is that?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> It's a Swiftech PWM fan hub, it does run off a single molex for power. But it also connects to the mother board with a 4pin fan cable, so you can control all the fans thru it. I have all 12 fans running off it, I used 6 PWM splitter cables. Works great found it on a whim looking around ppc's site, wanted something different than a regular fan controller.
> 
> Click


Ahh, now I feel really stupid for not recognizing it.


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> what case is that?


Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra slightly modded. Just removed the hard drive cages, and cut out the bottom of the 5.25 bays to make room for the EX 360. I took out the mesh panel on the side and put in a piece of plexi for a window.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Ahh, now I feel really stupid for not recognizing it.


LOL it's a good piece of equipment and works great!


----------



## wermad

Time to stuff this bad boy:


----------



## derickwm

Stuff 'er good.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Stuff 'er good.


I did say i would rescale the HPTX/eATX for you....



Also,Wermad....nice score on the 900d,fairly priced this time around too!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Time to stuff this bad boy:


That thing is monsterous. I seen a video of Linus next to that case and holy moly!

I look forward to seeing it stuffed with all your goodies.

./waiting.


----------



## mattcube64

How about those new Primochill Rigid compression fittings for their acrylic tubing? Unfortunately, there's really zero reviews out there, and very few impressions. I went in blind; but I know I want to go with acrylic tube, I don't like the looks of the stuff currently out there, and I don't trust the Bitspower stuff.

However, I gotta say, I'm a bit disappointed. For all the hype and excitement, and explicit comments that the tube is "locked" into the fitting - it's really not THAT super secure? The tube "fits" into the fitting pretty well, and is snug. And the fitting itself and the O-ring are nice and tight. Once everything is in the case, it'll probably be fine. But I gotta say, I can easily "yank" the tube out of a very tight fitting. Sure, it take a bit of force - more than I expect the system would ever see - but it's certainly far from "locked" in. I wish I had more experience with other tubing/water cooling to compare - but being my first go-round, I can't really compare it to anything. I do have a push fitting in my garage I ordered a few weeks ago and some E22 pipe - I gotta find it and compare.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> How about those new Primochill Rigid compression fittings for their acrylic tubing? Unfortunately, there's really zero reviews out there, and very few impressions. I went in blind; but I know I want to go with acrylic tube, I don't like the looks of the stuff currently out there, and I don't trust the Bitspower stuff.
> 
> However, I gotta say, I'm a bit disappointed. For all the hype and excitement, and explicit comments that the tube is "locked" into the fitting - it's really not THAT super secure? The tube "fits" into the fitting pretty well, and is snug. And the fitting itself and the O-ring are nice and tight. Once everything is in the case, it'll probably be fine. But I gotta say, I can easily "yank" the tube out of a very tight fitting. Sure, it take a bit of force - more than I expect the system would ever see - but it's certainly far from "locked" in. I wish I had more experience with other tubing/water cooling to compare - but being my first go-round, I can't really compare it to anything. I do have a push fitting in my garage I ordered a few weeks ago and some E22 pipe - I gotta find it and compare.


Can you measure the outer diameter of the part that screws down and compresses the o ring, looks to be about .750", where the Bitspower is just under .710".

Reason for asking is that with the BP, you can use it on a stubby, non rotary 90 on a flat surface, (res cap for example) and have clearance, but not a lot.

Was wondering if the primochills would work in the same scenario.

It could be a big help in assembling small sections in tight spaces to be able to tighten the seal on the tube after working it into position while loose.

Darlene


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Stuff 'er good.
> 
> 
> 
> I did say i would rescale the HPTX/eATX for you....
> 
> 
> 
> Also,Wermad....nice score on the 900d,fairly priced this time around too!
Click to expand...

Come on now... that isn't nice! Trying to make less spontaneous decisions D:


----------



## nismoskyline

Final rendition of a build before a friend bought it. I thought you guys might enjoy it


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final rendition of a build before a friend bought it. I thought you guys might enjoy it


I sorta like the tube curl idea.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> I sorta like the tube curl idea.


im kinda a fan of that! when i had my switch 810 i made like fun arcs and use a little extra tubing than needed to make it look 'cool' hahah!
(idk if you were saying that it was a bad thing or not but i was just commenting in general







)


----------



## MetallicAcid

Set up for the acrylic tubing.


Here I am going to hide the drain port. I am thinking of ordering some Koolance QD's, with just attaching the two sides up when I need to drain.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Set up for the acrylic tubing.
> 
> 
> Here I am going to hide the drain port. I am thinking of ordering some Koolance QD's, with just attaching the two sides up when I need to drain.












The similarity is so... creepy (secretly awesome







)

i bet someone at EK watched a few Invader ZIM episodes (or a few to many)


----------



## derickwm

Seen plenty of Invader Zim in my days


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Seen plenty of Invader Zim in my days


guilty at that too










Spoiler: We might have biscuits







one of my fav moments


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> That thing is monsterous. I seen a video of Linus next to that case and holy moly!
> 
> I look forward to seeing it stuffed with all your goodies.
> 
> ./waiting.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did say i would rescale the HPTX/eATX for you....
> 
> 
> 
> Also,Wermad....nice score on the 900d,fairly priced this time around too!


I've spent more on custom cases but this is the most expensive mass produced case I've had. Its really nice. Lots of lovely little details and touches.Sucks that it was designed before alphacool/phobya dropped the Monsta rads to the market, but hey, it should work with a little thought. I hope


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm about to update my loop from barbs to compression fittings, and thought about changing around the loop order. Based on the equipment in my signature rig below (810 Switch), I want to go from this:
> res-->CPU-->360 Rad-->GPU-->240 Rad-->res
> 
> To this:
> 
> res-->CPU-->GPU-->360 Rad-->240 Rad-->res
> 
> The pump is in the reservoir. Would I benefit in temps changing the configuration? As it sits right now, I get good cooling on both CPU and GPUs. I would imagine the temp might go up a few degrees on the GPUs (max out at 44C in current config during gaming). I'm just wondering if changing it up would improve temps to the CPU?


Ive done a similiar setup, the difference is very microscopic
For me tube order is all about aesthetic but the rule of thumb is still pump after res
Whoever say that that kind of loop order would give you worse temp on the cpu is right, but does a difference like 0.1c to 0.5c matters?
Doubt it


----------



## wermad

Monsta 480 + 900D + Sniper3 = harmony (barely







)



I was still able to install the top right and middle screws. The top mb heatsink barely nudges the fan grill a bit.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I have a MCP655b. I've heard that I should go through the CPU first, but for aesthetic purposes I want to go through my GPU's first. Is that ok to do? Idk if it matters, but I care more about GPU temps more.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I have a MCP655b. I've heard that I should go through the CPU first, but for aesthetic purposes I want to go through my GPU's first. Is that ok to do? Idk if it matters, but I care more about GPU temps more.


Just make sure the pump is after the res and everything else don't matter in which order it gets plumbed. Plumb your loop as cleanly as possible imho.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Monsta 480 + 900D + Sniper3 = harmony (barely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was still able to install the top right and middle screws. The top mb heatsink barely nudges the fan grill a bit.


But, you managed to fit a 480 Monsta, with the fans installed, in the top. That speaks highly for the top rad clearance in the 900D.
Without the fan guards, the heatsink would probably clear it completely. Amazing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> But, you managed to fit a 480 Monsta, with the fans installed, in the top. That speaks highly for the top rad clearance in the 900D.
> Without the fan guards, the heatsink would probably clear it completely. Amazing.


I've been nicked by the R4s in the past and just recently so fan grills are a must. These are the standard wire ones which actually push out a bit. The steel ones (like the biohaz ones I had before) are flat so those would have cleared. The two bay reservoirs barely cleared the Monsta rad too.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> How about those new Primochill Rigid compression fittings for their acrylic tubing? Unfortunately, there's really zero reviews out there, and very few impressions. I went in blind; but I know I want to go with acrylic tube, I don't like the looks of the stuff currently out there, and I don't trust the Bitspower stuff.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> However, I gotta say, I'm a bit disappointed. For all the hype and excitement, and explicit comments that the tube is "locked" into the fitting - it's really not THAT super secure? The tube "fits" into the fitting pretty well, and is snug. And the fitting itself and the O-ring are nice and tight. Once everything is in the case, it'll probably be fine. But I gotta say, I can easily "yank" the tube out of a very tight fitting. Sure, it take a bit of force - more than I expect the system would ever see - but it's certainly far from "locked" in. I wish I had more experience with other tubing/water cooling to compare - but being my first go-round, I can't really compare it to anything. I do have a push fitting in my garage I ordered a few weeks ago and some E22 pipe - I gotta find it and compare.


y.... y...y..you don't trust Bitspower!


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I have a MCP655b. I've heard that I should go through the CPU first, but for aesthetic purposes I want to go through my GPU's first. Is that ok to do? Idk if it matters, but I care more about GPU temps more.


I don't think it matters much which direction you go. My setup flows to GPU first before CPU, and everything is running very cool.


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent more on custom cases but this is the most expensive mass produced case I've had. Its really nice. Lots of lovely little details and touches.Sucks that it was designed before alphacool/phobya dropped the Monsta rads to the market, but hey, it should work with a little thought. I hope


what case is this?


----------



## protzman

900D lol, they said it a few times


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> what case is this?


Corsair Obsidian 900D "Godzilla"



Its an awesome case and really is coming together uber nicely. Its turning out to be the best case I've owned








http://www.corsair.com/900d


----------



## protzman

what prior cases have you owned?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> what prior cases have you owned?


Since 2009:

Thermaltake Armor
Cooler Master HAF 932
Mountain Mods Extended Ascension
Corsair Obsidian 800D
XSPC H2 (hated this one)
*edit: forgot the mighty Danger Den Double Wide







*
Cooler Master 690 II Advance
Xigmatek Elysium
Mountain Mods custom Extended Ascension (biggest case I've owned)
Cooler Master HAF XB (used as an interim case. might keep it for bench testing).

Now: Corsair Obsidian 900D. This is one is definitely a keeper (I promise







).

I think that's it....not sure if I missed one....I'm terrible at commitment with computers







.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Corsair Obsidian 900D "Godzilla"
> 
> Its an awesome case and really is coming together uber nicely. Its turning out to be the best case I've owned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/900d


Stop tempting me! My next scheduled build is a scratch piece......Must...Resist....Buying.....900D....at least for now


----------



## protzman

hahah thats alot








I actually just ordered a new case today, the new case labs s3, and since i still live @ home (in college) i sometimes use my moms credit card and then pay her back when i get a check from work (just so i can go ahead and order what i need when i need it) and i was trying to explain why i needed a new case already hahah too funny. If i were you my rents would probably shun me, but your prob a grown ass man so you can do whatever you want


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Since 2009:
> 
> Thermaltake Armor
> Cooler Master HAF 932
> Mountain Mods Extended Ascension
> Corsair Obsidian 800D
> XSPC H2 (hated this one)
> Cooler Master 690 II Advance
> Xigmatek Elysium
> Mountain Mods custom Extended Ascension (biggest case I've owned)
> Cooler Master HAF XB (used as an interim case. might keep it for bench testing).
> 
> Now: Corsair Obsidian 900D. This is one is definitely a keeper (I promise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I think that's it....not sure if I missed one....I'm terrible at commitment with computers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> hahah thats alot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually just ordered a new case today, the new case labs s3, and since i still live @ home (in college) i sometimes use my moms credit card and then pay her back when i get a check from work (just so i can go ahead and order what i need when i need it) and i was trying to explain why i needed a new case already hahah too funny. If i were you my rents would probably shun me, but your prob a grown ass man so you can do whatever you want


I AM a grown ass man, indeed. In fact, my son just graduated college this year and started his first job in his career field. Now it's MY turn to play!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> hahah thats alot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually just ordered a new case today, the new case labs s3, and since i still live @ home (in college) i sometimes use my moms credit card and then pay her back when i get a check from work (just so i can go ahead and order what i need when i need it) and i was trying to explain why i needed a new case already hahah too funny. If i were you my rents would probably shun me, but your prob a grown ass man so you can do whatever you want


Wrong because most grown ass men like myself have to answer to the wrath of the woman! If it ain't mom it's the wifey.









Now they can act like they do whatever they want and they are THE MAN but most of us know the woman is the real boss(they crazy!).


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Monsta 480 + 900D + Sniper3 = harmony (barely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> [IM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> G ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1524796/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> I was still able to install the top right and middle screws. The top mb heatsink barely nudges the fan grill a bit.


Nicely done.. I had no luck with my RIVE, but very glad to see someone actually fit it. Congrats!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Stop tempting me! My next scheduled build is a scratch piece......Must...Resist....Buying.....900D....at least for now



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> hahah thats alot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually just ordered a new case today, the new case labs s3, and since i still live @ home (in college) i sometimes use my moms credit card and then pay her back when i get a check from work (just so i can go ahead and order what i need when i need it) and i was trying to explain why i needed a new case already hahah too funny. If i were you my rents would probably shun me, but your prob a grown ass man so you can do whatever you want


It gets worse as you get older








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I AM a grown ass man, indeed. In fact, my son just graduated college this year and started his first job in his career field. Now it's MY turn to play!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Wrong because most grown ass men like myself have to answer to the wrath of the woman! If it ain't mom it's the wifey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they can act like they do whatever they want and they are THE MAN but most of us know the woman is the real boss(they crazy!).


Yes, the missus. I've pretty much ran out of valid reasons to continue to upgrade. Its the end of the road for my "upgrades" as she has placed an embargo on more expensive stuff. She ok'd a few more rads down the road.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Nicely done.. I had no luck with my RIVE, but very glad to see someone actually fit it. Congrats!


Thanks







I did look at yours and a few more build logs just to get an idea on how things would go. I did manage to stuff a Monsta 360mm on the roof of an Elysium w/ the same mb so I had a bit of confidence I could clear it (barely). Its really hard to figure how things can go without having the case. Now that she's here, I can really start compiling a list of the last pieces I'll need to wrap this one up. Might be a while though.

So far, I'm thinking of a UT60 480 and 360 downstairs (might go w/ XT45s instead to clear the fittings/tube or just one Ut and one XT) and an ST30 360 in the front. I'm also open to getting some other brand of rads as long as they fit and are cheap (used of course). I like alphacool but I hate the fact they use M3 screws. Really tempted to tap the threads to M4.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Since 2009:
> 
> Thermaltake Armor
> Cooler Master HAF 932
> Mountain Mods Extended Ascension
> Corsair Obsidian 800D
> XSPC H2 (hated this one)
> Cooler Master 690 II Advance
> Xigmatek Elysium
> Mountain Mods custom Extended Ascension (biggest case I've owned)
> Cooler Master HAF XB (used as an interim case. might keep it for bench testing).
> 
> *Now: Corsair Obsidian 900D. This is one is definitely a keeper (I promise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).*
> 
> I think that's it....not sure if I missed one....I'm terrible at commitment with computers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I doubt it, in 6 months you'll get the caselabs fever
I have one right now


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I doubt it, in 6 months you'll get the caselabs fever
> I have one right now


There was an STH and there's a TH10 available right now (used). For the same money I paid for hte 900D I could have gone with those. But as much as i hold CL as the best custom case maker, they're still a custom case. After owning two MM and a DD double wide (ah, forgot this one!!!), its nice to have a mass produced case with so many little details built into it (and not having to buy a bunch of accessories).


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just make sure the pump is after the res and everything else don't matter in which order it gets plumbed. Plumb your loop as cleanly as possible imho.


Good stuff. Thanks. This good? I'm going to have to tear it down next week anyways to throw in a couple new rads and GPU block.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Good stuff. Thanks. This good? I'm going to have to tear it down next week anyways to throw in a couple new rads and GPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good







. I always prefer some clean and flowing lines to each component with little to no unnecessary excess tubing.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *Mountain Mods custom Extended Ascension (biggest case I've owned)*


You're not lying, its a beast







.

Fits my dual GTX Quad 480s, dual non modular PSU's, dual 655s, and two X-stations, all in the bottom no problem...and still have plenty of room for another Quad+fans if I wanted to LMAO







. If I ever get rid of the TEC setup I'd probably scale down to a 900D, but for now I need all the extra room







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> You're not lying, its a beast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Fits my dual GTX Quad 480s, dual non modular PSU's, dual 655s, and two X-stations, all in the bottom no problem...and still have plenty of room for another Quad+fans if I wanted to LMAO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If I ever get rid of the TEC setup I'd probably scale down to a 900D, but for now I need all the extra room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It can double as a shelter when hiding from the better half after viewing the credit card bills


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It can double as a shelter when hiding from the better half after viewing the credit card bills


.

LOL!!!!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It can double as a shelter when hiding from the better half after viewing the credit card bills


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> .
> 
> LOL!!!!


ROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOFL























Got room for 2 in there? hahahahaha


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> How about those new Primochill Rigid compression fittings for their acrylic tubing? Unfortunately, there's really zero reviews out there, and very few impressions. I went in blind; but I know I want to go with acrylic tube, I don't like the looks of the stuff currently out there, and I don't trust the Bitspower stuff.
> 
> However, I gotta say, I'm a bit disappointed. For all the hype and excitement, and explicit comments that the tube is "locked" into the fitting - it's really not THAT super secure? The tube "fits" into the fitting pretty well, and is snug. And the fitting itself and the O-ring are nice and tight. Once everything is in the case, it'll probably be fine. But I gotta say, I can easily "yank" the tube out of a very tight fitting. Sure, it take a bit of force - more than I expect the system would ever see - but it's certainly far from "locked" in. I wish I had more experience with other tubing/water cooling to compare - but being my first go-round, I can't really compare it to anything. I do have a push fitting in my garage I ordered a few weeks ago and some E22 pipe - I gotta find it and compare.


There is no reason not to trust the Bitspower fittings. I have been using them with Copper tube. They are are very secure. I dont see any reason why acrylic tube would be any different. The only thing you need to watch out for is cutting the orings. I figured as much and purchased a bag of 50 extra seals when I bought the fittings. I only had to replace a few after getting all the tubes fitted.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> The only thing you need to watch out for is cutting the orings. I figured as much and purchased a bag of 50 extra seals when I bought the fittings. I only had to replace a few after getting all the tubes fitted.


The standard o-rings you use on the G1/4 thread-side are the same as the internal o-rings?


----------



## derickwm




----------



## ginger_nuts

So considering putting acrylic tubing in the scratch build case.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


MIPS RIP


----------



## derickwm

No kidding









Hopefully get the MIPS SR-2 chipset/mosfet and MIPS RAM blocks mounted soon too!


----------



## wermad

I see some portrait dells, mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm


----------



## Shogon

It is sad to see MIPS go, as useless (some may say) as ram blocks are, I purchased there's from Aquatuning.



Only if MIPS had made Titan blocks before they went, would of loved to have a complete collection by them.



Guess they were not kidding labeling some of there blocks as, limited edition


----------



## ToothBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> How about those new Primochill Rigid compression fittings for their acrylic tubing? Unfortunately, there's really zero reviews out there, and very few impressions. I went in blind; but I know I want to go with acrylic tube, I don't like the looks of the stuff currently out there, and I don't trust the Bitspower stuff.
> 
> However, I gotta say, I'm a bit disappointed. For all the hype and excitement, and explicit comments that the tube is "locked" into the fitting - it's really not THAT super secure? The tube "fits" into the fitting pretty well, and is snug. And the fitting itself and the O-ring are nice and tight. Once everything is in the case, it'll probably be fine. But I gotta say, I can easily "yank" the tube out of a very tight fitting. Sure, it take a bit of force - more than I expect the system would ever see - but it's certainly far from "locked" in. I wish I had more experience with other tubing/water cooling to compare - but being my first go-round, I can't really compare it to anything. I do have a push fitting in my garage I ordered a few weeks ago and some E22 pipe - I gotta find it and compare.


i have tried the bitspower fittings, they do hold the pipe okay, but i did not think it was good enough, so i decided to use stainless tubing with compressionfittings instead. if you really want to lock down the tube, you must use compression fittings with ferrule. in my current build, i am using stainless steel lines, with compression fittings, here are some teaser pictures.

http://s918.photobucket.com/user/TURBOFUNGUS/media/DSC_2816_zps9b1ad247.jpg.html

http://s918.photobucket.com/user/TURBOFUNGUS/media/DSC_2818_zpse12077a2.jpg.html

http://s918.photobucket.com/user/TURBOFUNGUS/media/DSC_2821_zps3c779698.jpg.html

please mind that i have more work to do on my build before plumbing as i have ordered alot of parts, from america and germany, and i have to cut some more sheet metal. so this is a pretty slow build. the name is ''toothbears g5''

please note that i am not trying to diss bitspower or anything, just saying that their fittings, that is designed to hold a pipe between two gpus, did not provide enough security for the heavy stainless tubes in my build. i will not argue with anyone, just posting my experience and some pictures of my solution with rigid tubing. i like that a lot of people have shown interest in rigid tubing, and is looking forward to see more builds with it in the future.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Since 2009:
> 
> Thermaltake Armor
> Cooler Master HAF 932
> Mountain Mods Extended Ascension
> Corsair Obsidian 800D
> XSPC H2 (hated this one)
> *edit: forgot the mighty Danger Den Double Wide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Cooler Master 690 II Advance
> Xigmatek Elysium
> Mountain Mods custom Extended Ascension (biggest case I've owned)
> Cooler Master HAF XB (used as an interim case. might keep it for bench testing).
> 
> Now: Corsair Obsidian 900D. This is one is definitely a keeper (I promise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I think that's it....not sure if I missed one....I'm terrible at commitment with computers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


i don't think that the 900D would have an easy time trusting you based on how many promises you gave to most of your cases







(i bet that TT Armor still cries a little inside)
and to think that i have convinced myself that my transition from the Antec 1100 to the Corsair C70 would be final. i see that i am not the only one







(the real question is only when)


----------



## siffonen

Had to postpone my build, because i need more angle fittings







What do you guys think so far?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Had to postpone my build, because i need more angle fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think so far?


your build is coming alone nicely, what size rad is that on the bottom?


----------



## siffonen

I have a Alphacool UT60 480 and a EK XT360 rads on the bottom. XT360 fits with Corsair HX850 psu, cannot use all of the connectors in psu, but luckily i only need few of them


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Had to postpone my build, because i need more angle fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think so far?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I have a Alphacool UT60 480 and a EK XT360 rads on the bottom. XT360 fits with Corsair HX850 psu, cannot use all of the connectors in psu, but luckily i only need few of them
Click to expand...

Very nice!

So far I'm only doing with the "UT86" but i do plan to add a UT60 480 and an XT45 360 for the bottom and squeeze in a ST30 360 (or a 240 if it can't fit)


----------



## koniu777

sup everyone







haven't posted anything in this thread in a long time, few shots of my latest creation


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> sup everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haven't posted anything in this thread in a long time, few shots of my latest creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks like Crash!



I wouldn't use it for a daily machine, it's a bit too gaudy for me for that... but it does look amazingly well done, and is very unique! I like it!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> sup everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haven't posted anything in this thread in a long time, few shots of my latest creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WOW me like!!!


----------



## koniu777

thx guys







now i just need invest in a data vac, this thing might get dusty hehe


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> sup everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haven't posted anything in this thread in a long time, few shots of my latest creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks really awesome, i wanted to do a blue led spaceship themed build with lightnings as the center piece, but alas i cannot find any lightning waterblocks anywhere, so ill be going around a titan this build.

once again, really nice job


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> The standard o-rings you use on the G1/4 thread-side are the same as the internal o-rings?


Yes they are the same.


----------



## wermad

Made a bit of progress. Will finish up later, busy watching Le Mans


----------



## sebar

Looks great wermad. I cannot believe my eyes, that top rad is massive.


----------



## derickwm

Are you putting a rad below?


----------



## Justinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justinator*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I noticed the spreadsheet has been updated but I don't seem to be on there. Besides posting pix of my rig, is there something else I need to do? My pix are in Post 44313


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *edit: forgot the mighty Danger Den Double Wide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Mighty is a great word for the DDDW.









Here's my DDDWH


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justinator*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Justinator*
> 
> I noticed the spreadsheet has been updated but I don't seem to be on there. Besides posting pix of my rig, is there something else I need to do? My pix are in Post 44313
> 
> 
> 
> Im not up to you yet,be patient
Click to expand...


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Yeah... he's still trying to figure out how quotes work on here... you've got to cut him some slack on the updates.







(ducks)


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> sup everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haven't posted anything in this thread in a long time, few shots of my latest creation


Lol ther is one thing i do like
You have the rog logo as your profile photo but you are useing a sabertooth motherboard xD
I find that even more funny then me useing a asus rampage 4 gene in big full tower case (xspc h2) xD


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> sup everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haven't posted anything in this thread in a long time, few shots of my latest creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol ther is one thing i do like
> You have the rog logo as your profile photo but you are useing a sabertooth motherboard xD
> I find that even more funny then me useing a asus rampage 4 gene in big full tower case (xspc h2) xD
Click to expand...

Cool story bro.


----------



## XKaan

^ I fully intend on doing something with one of those in-win cases once my current build is done. Nice!


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cool story bro.


lol no kiddin, who cares about a logo lol... btw I used to have RIVE+3930k if that explains it


----------



## joostflux

Can't beat the looks of MIPS blocks.

RIP MIPS. You will not be forgotten.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't beat the looks of MIPS blocks.
> 
> RIP MIPS. You will not be forgotten.


Would look much nicer with black screws.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Would look much nicer with black screws.


Everything looks better w/ black screws. I don't allow silver screws in my rig.









Old vs new. What can I say, I definitely prefer the circles.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Lol ther is one thing i do like
> You have the rog logo as your profile photo but you are useing a sabertooth motherboard xD
> I find that even more funny then me useing a asus rampage 4 gene in big full tower case (xspc h2) xD


Could you do us all a favor and use spoiler tags when quoting a bunch of pictures please? It is the icon that looks like a black thinking cloud right outside of the reply box. Thanks


----------



## nleksan

Ugh... I am SO tempted to pull the trigger on a MIPS Rampage IV Extreme Ni/BLK block kit... I have been debating this for a while, but having just recently moved, money's a bit tight... But then again, I may never get another chance... But then again it's expensive... But then again it would make me happy... But then again...


----------



## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Ugh... I am SO tempted to pull the trigger on a MIPS Rampage IV Extreme Ni/BLK block kit... I have been debating this for a while, but having just recently moved, money's a bit tight... But then again, I may never get another chance... But then again it's expensive... But then again it would make me happy... But then again...


You won't do it...


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> You won't do it...


Yes he will. We have to believe, man. _We have to believe!_


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Do it! You just can't beat that look...


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Ugh... I am SO tempted to pull the trigger on a MIPS Rampage IV Extreme Ni/BLK block kit... I have been debating this for a while, but having just recently moved, money's a bit tight... But then again, I may never get another chance... But then again it's expensive... But then again it would make me happy... But then again...


I know how you feel, it took me a few days till I caved in and bought the ram block. The fact they are closing down, possibly for good, made me buy it.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> Do it! You just can't beat that look...


Is that a Maximus V Extreme?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Is that a Maximus V Extreme?


Correct!


----------



## Nomad692000

Just started work on my pedestal and cap. My Scout doesn't have enough room for my rads.


The OSHA safety supervisor


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Looks great wermad. I cannot believe my eyes, that top rad is massive.


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Are you putting a rad below?


Yup, maybe something cheap and good like some xspc EXs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

As we are all getting our MIPS out,how can i refuse?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As we are all getting our MIPS out,how can i refuse?


Showoff!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Correct!


My goddd, I wasn't aware that anyone else made a block for the MVE other than EK. I need that. It looks so much better than the EK version. I NEED IT!!


----------



## Justinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not up to you yet,be patient


Ok cool, apologies and thanks for explaining


----------



## robcowboy73

thews blocks are the dogs ? do you now if they will fit the 990fx as I have been hunting for mobo blocks with no luck. I end up going to something else if I cant get rid of this heat sinks







its no fair I am thinking about saying







to AMD as I love the look of the MAXIMUS V SERIES BOARDS with a full mobo water block


----------



## robcowboy73

I don't wish to sound dum but what is your board I don't think I have ever seen one and I must say


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I don't wish to sound dum but what is your board I don't think I have ever seen one and I must say


EVGA Classified SR-2 if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## robcowboy73

yes I just found the link and to say it packs a punch is an understatement.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> Do it! You just can't beat that look...


Lawd, I need that mobo block in my life... Would go very well with my MVE and Raystorm.


----------



## Nomad692000

I gots some stuff in.








2 - XSPC Rads a 240 and a 360. 2 - EK VVGA Supremacy Bridge Editions and a bridge. XSPC Raystorm CPU block. Almost forgot the Swiftech Helix's.

Sorry for the crappy pics, gotta find my camera.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I don't wish to sound dum but what is your board I don't think I have ever seen one and I must say


You talking about that server board with dual cpu's?? If I am not mistaken I believe that is the ridiculously sexy EVGA SR-2.


----------



## fnyk

It is the evga classifide super record 2(sr2)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im having a nightmare trying to get the radius sections made for my build...

I think i have found a cunning way out of it tho....


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im having a nightmare trying to get the radius sections made for my build...
> 
> I think i have found a cunning way out of it tho....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You may have to go that way. I heard SilverStone had to use some kind of automotive press to shape the TJ07 unibody with that similar front radius.
Would you then leave the connecting pieces open as they are in the render?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im having a nightmare trying to get the radius sections made for my build...
> 
> I think i have found a cunning way out of it tho....


I like this much more tbh. The original was to TJ07 esque.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im having a nightmare trying to get the radius sections made for my build...
> 
> I think i have found a cunning way out of it tho....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may have to go that way. I heard SilverStone had to use some kind of automotive press to shape the TJ07 unibody with that similar front radius.
> Would you then leave the connecting pieces open as they are in the render?
Click to expand...

Probably I would mesh them in from the back,would look tidier that way

Silverstone have a custom extrusion die and have a CNC former for the body bends.....too much money for me thats for sure!

This new design has grown on me quite a lot,no so sad that i couldnt follow thru on my initial design now.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I like this much more tbh. The original was to TJ07 esque.


Say what?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Probably I would mesh them in from the back,would look tidier that way
> 
> Silverstone have a custom extrusion die and have a CNC former for the body bends.....too much money for me thats for sure!
> 
> This new design has grown on me quite a lot,no so sad that i couldnt follow thru on my initial design now.


That's just it, such a nice radius would need that expensive equipment to form, which is beyond access to most.
Your solution would certainly work, with or without the mesh. The good part is that the development can continue!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Say what?


Not sure how I could make it any more clear.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im having a nightmare trying to get the radius sections made for my build...
> 
> I think i have found a cunning way out of it tho....


As previously stated you will need a hydraulic press break with a round top die and large V die in the bottom. if you do the math and designing and take your piece ( prefabbed or digital drawing) to any half decent fad shop they can bend both radius provided they have the top die to match your radius. Also the die can be made from a piece of cold roll round stock if they don't. I would contact some local shops and see what they have and can do first, then you can design your radius around their equipment. Also ask if they have a way to cover the dies to avoid scratching and marring of the material, I assume you are using aluminum is why I mention this.

Worked in a fab shop for three years, we've done this exact procedure a few times. It just takes some time to do the math right but the finished product would look much better in my opinion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im having a nightmare trying to get the radius sections made for my build...
> 
> I think i have found a cunning way out of it tho....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1527939/
> 
> 
> 
> As previously stated you will need a hydraulic press break with a round top die and large V die in the bottom. if you do the math and designing and take your piece ( prefabbed or digital drawing) to any half decent fad shop they can bend both radius provided they have the top die to match your radius. Also the die can be made from a piece of cold roll round stock if they don't. I would contact some local shops and see what they have and can do first, then you can design your radius around their equipment. Also ask if they have a way to cover the dies to avoid scratching and marring of the material, I assume you are using aluminum is why I mention this.
> 
> Worked in a fab shop for three years, we've done this exact procedure a few times. It just takes some time to do the math right but the finished product would look much better in my opinion.
Click to expand...

I already know this,the reason for the design change was excess scrappage projections and cost.


----------



## phillyd

So I've been having a problem where my line has been bubbling above my res, and I found out the other day that the res is upside down








I'm gonna use this on a T-fitting for a drain port.

I've got new ram coming, I just painted my case trim, I'll be delidding my CPU and redoing my loop soon. Check out the *build log*!


----------



## BramSLI1

Here's an upgrade that I recently did. Let me know what if any of you have any ideas for improving my routing. Right now my temperatures are about as good as they could possibly be. I'm getting 45C on my processor at full-load and 42C on my GPU. That equates to about a 15 degree delta on my processor and a 12 degree delta on my GPU.


----------



## pc-illiterate

bram, i just received my mcw82(s). am i right in finding no mount for the back side of the block? the knurled thumb bolts thread right down to the 670 pcb?


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As we are all getting our MIPS out,how can i refuse?


This isn't in the SR2 photo, but in the other photos of that rig, I soo some Corsair fans that don't have the Corsair blades. What blades ore you using, and what is the benefit?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> bram, i just received my mcw82(s). am i right in finding no mount for the back side of the block? the knurled thumb bolts thread right down to the 670 pcb?


Yes, I believe that's correct. Please let me know if you have any other issues or concerns with these blocks.


----------



## cliffhucker

my little loop


----------



## Seredin

Yay I can finally post some updates. I think I'm done for a while.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, I believe that's correct. Please let me know if you have any other issues or concerns with these blocks.


thanks for the info, bram









this loop update of mine should actually be worthy of post pics.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Yay I can finally post some updates. I think I'm done for a while.


Beauty of a little build there. Is the pump/reservoir mounted in the drive bays? Also love how the SSD is mounted.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Beauty of a little build there. Is the pump/reservoir mounted in the drive bays? Also love how the SSD is mounted.


Yes, in the drive bays. Yeah, I wanted to feature the SSD as a central theme, so hiding it just wouldn't do


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Yay I can finally post some updates. I think I'm done for a while.


Hmm... there is something off about that GPU but I just can't place my finger on it... oh that's right










Jeffinslaw


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> I know how you feel, it took me a few days till I caved in and bought the ram block. The fact they are closing down, possibly for good, made me buy it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> You won't do it...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Yes he will. We have to believe, man. _We have to believe!_


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> Do it! You just can't beat that look...


You guys are killing me!

ARGH!

I'll let you all explain to my girlfriend why I need more water cooling parts


----------



## skyn3t

I have been working on my 800D mod again I have decide to post one or two pics of each day that I had work on it. It still need a bit more work but here is what i got for now. some pics are better than others because I used most of the time my s3 to take those pics. RaD's to be mounted on this build rx360,rx240,rx240 with dual pump with MCP35X2-H top.







.

Day 1 tear down










Day 2 removin all the heatshirnk from my MDPC sleeve and going heatshrink less


Day 3 preparing some hard cut-out


Day 3 mounting the 5.25 fan controller cage


Day 4







my gpu's just arrived with other parts.


Day 5 preparing the rx240 mount hard for front intake


Day 6 some new parts arrive too.


Day 6 I just had to put this parts together looks how gorgeous it is










Day 7 Cutting the holes for the front rad mount from the day 5


Day 8 I had done this peace here but i forgot to take some pics but I do have some different angles and how i made it










Day 9 Front fan mod made with acrylic and mounted from inside with nice and even edges from outside.


Day 9 just finished my black panel base with two fillport in it. and monted the rx240 and right behind is another panel to mount res and ssd


PS: I'm still think in open a Build log but i think i'm kinda lazy this time. so what you guys thinking


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cliffhucker*
> 
> my little loop


What's up with your airflow? Your rear and front rads are both blowing hot air into the case.
It does still make sense, because you have the fans in the bottom and top pushing said air upwards, but still- wouldn't it make sense to reverse the fans in the back?


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I have been working on my 800D mod again I have decide to post one or two pics of each day that I had work on it. It still need a bit more work but here is what i got for now. some pics are better than others because I used most of the time my s3 to take those pics. RaD's to be mounted on this build rx360,rx240,rx240 with dual pump with MCP35X2-H top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Day 1 tear down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Day 2 removin all the heatshirnk from my MDPC sleeve and going heatshrink less
> 
> 
> Day 3 preparing some hard cut-out
> 
> 
> Day 3 mounting the 5.25 fan controller cage
> 
> 
> Day 4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my gpu's just arrived with other parts.
> 
> 
> Day 5 preparing the rx240 mount hard for front intake
> 
> 
> Day 6 some new parts arrive too.
> 
> 
> Day 6 I just had to put this parts together looks how gorgeous it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Day 7 Cutting the holes for the front rad mount from the day 5
> 
> 
> Day 8 I had done this peace here but i forgot to take some pics but I do have some different angles and how i made it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Day 9 Front fan mod made with acrylic and mounted from inside with nice and even edges from outside.
> 
> 
> Day 9 just finished my black panel base with two fillport in it. and monted the rx240 and right behind is another panel to mount res and ssd
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I'm still think in open a Build log but i think i'm kinda lazy this time. so what you guys thinking


Really love that dual front fan mod.
Yes, definitely make a build log.


----------



## cliffhucker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> What's up with your airflow? Your rear and front rads are both blowing hot air into the case.
> It does still make sense, because you have the fans in the bottom and top pushing said air upwards, but still- wouldn't it make sense to reverse the fans in the back?


I dunno, I been through this so much. I just wanted the coolest air possible across both rads and am less worried about the motherboard and other components getting hot. I don't game so the GPU is not overworked and everything else seems ok (so far) . I keep the 2 x 140mm fans at the top going pretty good so there is some good extraction.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im having a nightmare trying to get the radius sections made for my build...
> 
> I think i have found a cunning way out of it tho....


I like the new look, I feel it might look a little better with a few more of them fins and spaced a bit closer kinda like the heat sink fins on a air cooled CPU. If you get what I am thinking haha. Or just the right kind of mesh can make or break it. Either way good work!


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cliffhucker*
> 
> I dunno, I been through this so much. I just wanted the coolest air possible across both rads and am less worried about the motherboard and other components getting hot. I don't game so the GPU is not overworked and everything else seems ok (so far) . I keep the 2 x 140mm fans at the top going pretty good so there is some good extraction.


KK.
Makes sense. As long as your temps are okay, whatever works. The only real issue then is that the bottom fan is restricted in pulling air in, but like I said as long as it works.


----------



## phillyd

I need a way to mount/hide a MCP655 pump in an NZXT Switch 810 under a tube res. I will have the bottom drive cage out and a Monsta 240 RAD in push/pull


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I need a way to mount/hide a MCP655 pump in an NZXT Switch 810 under a tube res. I will have the bottom drive cage out and a Monsta 240 RAD in push/pull


I had a similar setup in my Switch and all I did was use tubing to kind of suspend the pump and then attached some adhesive Velcro to the retaining bracket that came with the reservoir. I fastened it to the lip just under the 5.25 drive cages and that held it in place pretty well.


----------



## Modest Mouse

Soooo I got bored and might have ordered the beginning components for my first custom loop for my 800D lol. Thank you OCN community for saving me some bucks! Going to attempt copper tubing painted matte black with white fittings for my loop.


----------



## Miniblazeu

But 2, 240 radiators (push pull setup) i7 920 d0 stepping at 4.10ghz. DX580OG Intel Mobo. ATi 6870 with a full Heatkiller waterblock. ^.^


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I had a similar setup in my Switch and all I did was use tubing to kind of suspend the pump and then attached some adhesive Velcro to the retaining bracket that came with the reservoir. I fastened it to the lip just under the 5.25 drive cages and that held it in place pretty well.


Can I see a pic?


----------



## robcowboy73

looking good to me I wish my build was at that stage but I am still cutting up the tower so I can fit bigger rads in.


----------



## Ninja Hedgehog

Picked up my first WC parts today!















Looking forward to joining the club once the system's done. Also, I have a build log.


----------



## driftingforlife

^check the res does not leak out the top where it is bowed.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> ^check the res does not leak out the top where it is bowed.


This.

That reservoir has some serious quality control issues, it may leak after time at the top where it's bowed. That's why I went with the acrylic version instead, even though that black version is nicer but I didn't feel safe with it.


----------



## Ninja Hedgehog

The bowing on my particular res does not seem as bad as some examples I've seen. I also have silicone grease laying around somewhere that I'll use on the O-ring.

Thanks for the warning, though. I'll keep a paper towel under the reservoir just in case.


----------



## kcuestag

I'm getting some nice WC goodies this week:

- Alphachool Monsta 240mm
- Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT - Red
- Temperature display for the water
- 30º and 60 adapters for fittings

I plan on changing my loop as I had here in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InYFZVV7EWY

Should have a much cleaner loop compared to the actual loop.









Also got some goodies to do a drain "port" on the Monsta rad:

- 2x Alphachool G1/4 male-male Connectors
- Alphachool 90º male-male Connectors
- Drain G1/4 Valve

I plan on placing the drain port in one of the middle ports of the Monsta, facing to the side panel of the case:



Should make draining much easier than it is now, will be very helpful so I can drain it fast for the lan party next month.









What do you guys think? Cheap and simple drain "port".


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Cut a piece of alu to size,drill for the screws then mount over the top of the cover,screw it down and the top will not bow.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm getting some nice WC goodies this week:
> 
> - Alphachool Monsta 240mm
> - Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT - Red
> - Temperature display for the water
> - 30º and 60 adapters for fittings
> 
> I plan on changing my loop as I had here in this video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InYFZVV7EWY
> 
> Should have a much cleaner loop compared to the actual loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some goodies to do a drain "port" on the Monsta rad:
> 
> - 2x Alphachool G1/4 male-male Connectors
> - Alphachool 90º male-male Connectors
> - Drain G1/4 Valve
> 
> I plan on placing the drain port in one of the middle ports of the Monsta, facing to the side panel of the case:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should make draining much easier than it is now, will be very helpful so I can drain it fast for the lan party next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think? Cheap and simple drain "port".


I'd use a Koolance female threaded QD3 on the actual drain port of that res and leave it at that.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> I'd use a Koolance female threaded QD3 on the actual drain port of that res and leave it at that.


I want it to look towards the side panel though, that's why I'm using the two male adapters and the 90º (Or L) adapter, to make the valve look towards the sidepanel.

Everything should ship tomorrow and arrive Wednesday, I'll post pictures when everything's up.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> ^check the res does not leak out the top where it is bowed.
> 
> 
> 
> This.
> 
> That reservoir has some serious quality control issues, it may leak after time at the top where it's bowed. That's why I went with the acrylic version instead, even though that black version is nicer but I didn't feel safe with it.
Click to expand...

I thought they fixed all those problems with the new revision?

I felt no worried about the quality of my res, in fact it felt really good. Acetal IIRC.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Yay I can finally post some updates. I think I'm done for a while.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean looking build.


----------



## TampaChaz

Waiting on the metal shop to ship my backplate pieces so I can final cut, drill the screw mounts, paint and install......tick tock, tick tock.
In the mean time, I have routed the two loops, then rerouted them, then rerouted again. LOL
I THINK I might finally be happy with the layout, so once the backplates arrive, I'll drop some pics in the build log and FINALLY put in the loops and start leak testing. Once the leak test is started, I'll post some rig porn here for everyone to see!


----------



## lihoudis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Waiting on the metal shop to ship my backplate pieces so I can final cut, drill the screw mounts, paint and install......tick tock, tick tock.
> In the mean time, I have routed the two loops, then rerouted them, then rerouted again. LOL
> I THINK I might finally be happy with the layout, so once the backplates arrive, I'll drop some pics in the build log and FINALLY put in the loops and start leak testing. Once the leak test is started, I'll post some rig porn here for everyone to see!


rerouting all the way














looking forward for your pics


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm getting some nice WC goodies this week:
> 
> - Alphachool Monsta 240mm
> - Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT - Red
> - Temperature display for the water
> - 30º and 60 adapters for fittings
> 
> I plan on changing my loop as I had here in this video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InYFZVV7EWY
> 
> Should have a much cleaner loop compared to the actual loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some goodies to do a drain "port" on the Monsta rad:
> 
> - 2x Alphachool G1/4 male-male Connectors
> - Alphachool 90º male-male Connectors
> - Drain G1/4 Valve
> 
> I plan on placing the drain port in one of the middle ports of the Monsta, facing to the side panel of the case:
> 
> 
> 
> Should make draining much easier than it is now, will be very helpful so I can drain it fast for the lan party next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think? Cheap and simple drain "port".


No reason to drain. I have yet to drain mine for any lans I've been to. I actually top it off before going so there isn't any sloshing around. As long as you're not traveling on a bumpy dirt trail you will be perfectly fine, assuming you don't have parts just laying the case and everything is screwed in.


----------



## phillyd

Just a note, if you're buying the XSPC dual bay res from Performance-PC's before it gets revised, we'll leak-test it for you if you'd like.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Revised cable management and SSD placement.
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02818_zps3d190092.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02821_zpsfe45cbff.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02822_zpse1c97fa2.jpg.html

Watercooling parts placement. I love how the pump sits just in front of the cut/design on the aluminium plate.
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02845_zps4f87197b.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02843_zpse3ae3cdd.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02853_zps99cfc7d8.jpg.html

Phobya and Vengeance.
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02849_zps8df9df59.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02848_zpsae4da265.jpg.html

MetallicAcid


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Revised cable management and SSD placement.
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02818_zps3d190092.jpg.html
> 
> Watercooling parts placement. I love how the pump sits just in front of the cut/design on the aluminium plate.
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02845_zps4f87197b.jpg.html
> ][/URL]
> 
> MetallicAcid


That looks amazing! Great job with the cable management too!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> No reason to drain. I have yet to drain mine for any lans I've been to. I actually top it off before going so there isn't any sloshing around. As long as you're not traveling on a bumpy dirt trail you will be perfectly fine, assuming you don't have parts just laying the case and everything is screwed in.


I still don't want to risk it though, it's a 5 hour trip in car, I definitely want to drain it just in case.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Revised cable management and SSD placement.
> 
> MetallicAcid


Sweet. I love the fact that you have bothered to sleeve the cables in a place where they can't be seen. True dedication.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I still don't want to risk it though, it's a 5 hour trip in car, I definitely want to drain it just in case.


Five hours?

You sure you can still call that a *LOCAL* Area Network Party?!










Oh Lord, that was so bad...









Thanks - T


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> No reason to drain. I have yet to drain mine for any lans I've been to. I actually top it off before going so there isn't any sloshing around. As long as you're not traveling on a bumpy dirt trail you will be perfectly fine, assuming you don't have parts just laying the case and everything is screwed in.
> 
> 
> 
> I still don't want to risk it though, it's a 5 hour trip in car, I definitely want to drain it just in case.
Click to expand...

I have carried my computer to numerous LANs. Bumpy roads and all.

Nothing at all has happened to my WC loop, maybe a little shake to loosen some few bubbles from the rad at the end - but that's about it.
My loop is pretty close to full.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Five hours?
> 
> You sure you can still call that a *LOCAL* Area Network Party?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh Lord, that was so bad...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


This is where I'm going:



I've been there the last 2 years, this is 3rd time in a row. Sorry for the off-topic.









So yeah, I'll definitely drain the loop before the car trip.


----------



## fnyk

that looks b eautiful woth all those monitors gloweing up in the dark dude ^^


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninja Hedgehog*
> 
> The bowing on my particular res does not seem as bad as some examples I've seen. I also have silicone grease laying around somewhere that I'll use on the O-ring.
> 
> Thanks for the warning, though. I'll keep a paper towel under the reservoir just in case.


ive had all sorts of leaky resiviors....

after i started using these....

not one drop since!!!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1164&products_id=36724


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Revised cable management and SSD placement.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02818_zps3d190092.jpg.html
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02821_zpsfe45cbff.jpg.html
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02822_zpse1c97fa2.jpg.html
> 
> Watercooling parts placement. I love how the pump sits just in front of the cut/design on the aluminium plate.
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02845_zps4f87197b.jpg.html
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02843_zpse3ae3cdd.jpg.html
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02853_zps99cfc7d8.jpg.html
> 
> Phobya and Vengeance.
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02849_zps8df9df59.jpg.html
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02848_zpsae4da265.jpg.html
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


I love how cute it is, the tubing is going to add to the clutter, are you just going pump, cpu, rad, pump?


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> This is where I'm going:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been there the last 2 years, this is 3rd time in a row. Sorry for the off-topic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, I'll definitely drain the loop before the car trip.


q cabrooooooon


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks amazing! Great job with the cable management too!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Sweet. I love the fact that you have bothered to sleeve the cables in a place where they can't be seen. True dedication.


Cheers guys!


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I love how cute it is, the tubing is going to add to the clutter, are you just going pump, cpu, rad, pump?


I think, done right (which he definitely will), acrylic tubing doesn't add to clutter at all.


----------



## robcowboy73

thank's for that info I was going to get one


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I love how cute it is, the tubing is going to add to the clutter, are you just going pump, cpu, rad, pump?


Hey darwing! Thanks or the (cute) compliment









For now, the cooling is just for the CPU, pure overkill in true OCN fashion. When I cool the GPU, I will be designing an external solution which houses all rads, pump(s) and reservoir(s).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I think, done right (which he definitely will), acrylic tubing doesn't add to clutter at all.


Thanks for the vote of confidence Seredin... No press or anything


----------



## robcowboy73

If it works I shale add the Pressure Equalization Membrane to my shopping list


----------



## fakeblood

Have jumped onto the acrylic tubing ship! Waiting on some silicone tube to arrive so I can bend some acrylic

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09803_zpse2939c09.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09805_zps3d447ec0.jpg.html
Removing the ram from the loop, figured it will look a lot cleaner (layout wise) without them there. Not sure if ill just leave the heatsinks as they are or put the originals back on but painted black









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09802_zps6a7adf23.jpg.html
Opted to run the fans the way they are as I have experienced previously running FAN -> RAD FAN -> RAD doesnt work so well

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09801_zps37558d35.jpg.html
Have replaced the top of my lightbox with a new piece of acrylic...no more holes









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09799_zps84696ae3.jpg.html
Excuse the stained tubing...dont have any spares so re using the old stuff in the pump/rad area. This front area is going to be jam packed! Still have to fit my himuro and fan controller in there


----------



## Nomad692000

Got my pedestal and cap done, gotta do some smoothing and paint. I think it will hold my wc gear now.



God I got to find my camera


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> ^check the res does not leak out the top where it is bowed.


owned several of those. never had a single issue. my guess its its peoples lack of experience with how tight to torque the top. all mine bowed, none leak.


----------



## bundymania

Here´s a new controller. It can handle 36 watts per channel, so you can connect several pumps !















http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_1051zrsbj.jpg


----------



## lowfat

My home server WIP


----------



## ginger_nuts

Or one PMP-500.

Looks good still. Hope we get it here in Australia.


----------



## longroadtrip

fini...for now anyways...


----------



## Ninja Hedgehog

Awesome build. I really like the Mercury S3.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> fini...for now anyways...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is a fantastic build! You should be proud!!

MetallicAcid


----------



## Kires

Its pretty tight spacing in there! Dang, Lookin good!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> fini...for now anyways...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man, that's a beauty!
Great view of that 6970, with the perfect block to show it off in the S3.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninja Hedgehog*
> 
> Awesome build. I really like the Mercury S3.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> This is a fantastic build! You should be proud!!
> 
> MetallicAcid


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kires*
> 
> Its pretty tight spacing in there! Dang, Lookin good!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Man, that's a beauty!
> Great view of that 6970, with the perfect block to show it off in the S3.


Thanks guys...It was a lot of fun to build!


----------



## Stickeelion

I have Started a build log check it out









http://www.overclock.net/t/1403983/buildlog-sticks-monster-900-zfx-900d-crossfire-rig

Teaser Pics




Cheers Guys


----------



## kingchris

just a little help please guys, i7 3770k and gtx 690 both stock, will a 240 monsta and 120 monsta be enough to cool the thing down, fans will only be push or pull??
any ideas please.
sorry cant go into too much more details just yet...


----------



## PedroC1999

No, just simply too much heat, you will need atleast a 360 and a thick 240


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> just a little help please guys, i7 3770k and gtx 690 both stock, will a 240 monsta and 120 monsta be enough to cool the thing down, fans will only be push or pull??
> any ideas please.
> sorry cant go into too much more details just yet...


if its at stock , imo it would be just barely made it as long as you stick with the monsta and good fans with good positive airflow
that 690 is a real heat source


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> just a little help please guys, i7 3770k and gtx 690 both stock, will a 240 monsta and 120 monsta be enough to cool the thing down, fans will only be push or pull??
> any ideas please.
> sorry cant go into too much more details just yet...


If at stock clocks that amount of rad space will do. Doesn't leave much room for OC'ing though.


----------



## kingchris

i might be able to get a 360 monsta in but its going to be close, but im not over clocking, just gaming. and going to show off a little


----------



## PedroC1999

KingChris, overclocking is free performance, and can get the last few FPS between smooth, and real life experience


----------



## derickwm

lol.


----------



## MetallicAcid

But KingChris is from Australia Pedro... Haven't you heard? We Australians do everything wrong, back-to-front and upside down










*DO ME PROUD KING!!*

MetallicAcid


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> just a little help please guys, i7 3770k and gtx 690 both stock, will a 240 monsta and 120 monsta be enough to cool the thing down, fans will only be push or pull??
> any ideas please.
> sorry cant go into too much more details just yet...


Should be but will depend on your house and how hot it gets in summer?

I had a i7 3930k at 5000mhz/1.47v and a GTX 690 at 1212mhz 6700mhz memory on a 35mm 280mm and 35mm 140mm only in push and temps were great. CPU never over 60deg and GPUs never over 40deg. However in summer it was a different story but last summer it was 40deg in Melbourne and I don't know of anyone that was able to run their rigs in that nonsense.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> But KingChris is from Australia Pedro... Haven't you heard? We Australians do everything wrong, back-to-front and upside down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DO ME PROUD KING!!*
> 
> MetallicAcid


Dont forget Christmas on July!









love Australia though, lived there for nearly 8 years, I regret coming back to my country

that Singularity guy who makes amazing modded water cooling rig also comes from Australia if I'm not mistaken


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Plus I got a MOTM nom at Bittech!

http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/mod-of-the-month/2013/06/25/mod-of-the-month-may-2013/1

So exciting! My second nom!

Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Nice!


----------



## Phobia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Plus I got a MOTM nom at Bittech!
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/mod-of-the-month/2013/06/25/mod-of-the-month-may-2013/1
> 
> So exciting! My second nom!
> 
> Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!


DAMMMMMMMMMMMMN


----------



## sebar

Way to go B NEGATIVE, you builds are awe-inspiring. The level of quality and detail you put into your builds is second to none.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Plus I got a MOTM nom at Bittech!
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/mod-of-the-month/2013/06/25/mod-of-the-month-may-2013/1
> 
> So exciting! My second nom!
> 
> Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!


Wow, I suddenly feel like an idiot for not thinking about painting the thermal armor on my sabertooth!

Looks great man.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> fini...for now anyways...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful. I love the S3.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus I got a MOTM nom at Bittech!
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/mod-of-the-month/2013/06/25/mod-of-the-month-may-2013/1
> 
> So exciting! My second nom!
> 
> Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!


And damn well deserved.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus I got a MOTM nom at Bittech!
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/mod-of-the-month/2013/06/25/mod-of-the-month-may-2013/1
> 
> So exciting! My second nom!
> 
> Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Plus I got a MOTM nom at Bittech!
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/mod-of-the-month/2013/06/25/mod-of-the-month-may-2013/1
> 
> So exciting! My second nom!
> 
> Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!


Quite well deserved. As I have said before, your builds inspire me to go that extra mile and let no detail go untouched. CHEERS to you for yet another brilliant build!


----------



## wermad

Good luck B









Ordered some pre-owned goodies: Black Ice GTX 480 (x2), GTX 360, and a GTX 240 for my 900D. I know they're dated designs but they were cheap and readily available to buy. Their thickness (54mm) gives me that bit of space when i run p/p fans. It was a nightmare removing the Monsta w/ the single bank of fans. Also, my R4s go up to 2k. Next year w/ my tax return, I'll switch them to SR1s or UT60s.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Plus I got a MOTM nom at Bittech!
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/mod-of-the-month/2013/06/25/mod-of-the-month-may-2013/1
> 
> So exciting! My second nom!
> 
> Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!


Fantastic work!









Mind sharing how you mounted those two pumps to the drive cage?


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Here´s a new controller. It can handle 36 watts per channel, so you can connect several pumps !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_1051zrsbj.jpg


That would look absolutely awesome without all those card reader slots. Those holes spoils the sleek black brushed aluminium look.

In my humble opinion, card readers are supposed to be on your desk, plugged on a USB cord, no on the front of a possibly heavily modded watercooled rig.

and b-Neg, that rig... I just imagined that theme on a TJ-11...
Seriously, its absolutely gorgeous, you deserve that motm. Congratulations


----------



## skyn3t

I was going to say the fc9 http://www.lamptron.com/product/controllers/fc9/ 50w per channel it hold a lot power. I do have one in my 800D, it does manage 14 fans and it can hold more.. the only thing I don't on this fan controller is the knobs. T style but I had a easy fix . I just removed those and it looks seamlessly.


----------



## Shogon

Thought about painting the backplates yellow, but for now I'm glad it works. I need to buy more BP crystal links though


----------



## Stickeelion

Wow, I love that orange, Some more unique colours than the usual blue or red


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought about painting the backplates yellow, but for now I'm glad it works. I need to buy more BP crystal links though


Nice pictures! Why is one tube yellow and all others orange?


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Nice pictures! Why is one tube yellow and all others orange?


Its propbably the way I took the picture, I'm pretty bad with this Panasonic Lumix







. Some of the tubing is Bitspower crystal links to show the Mayhem pastel yellow (which I love <3), and the others are 10mm copper pipe. I have a red light on top...well it could be orange


----------



## Kenjiwing

I need to replace my hwlabs gtx 480 due to the rad being too thick. I use San ace fans and want to get a swiftech mcr420-xp martin gave it great reviews last year. Is it still one of the best mid/high rpm rads for the price?


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> I need to replace my hwlabs gtx 480 due to the rad being too thick. I use San ace fans and want to get a swiftech mcr420-xp martin gave it great reviews last year. Is it still one of the best mid/high rpm rads for the price?


that would be a huge downgrade


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> I need to replace my hwlabs gtx 480 due to the rad being too thick. I use San ace fans and want to get a swiftech mcr420-xp martin gave it great reviews last year. Is it still one of the best mid/high rpm rads for the price?


It really depends on what your cooling? If its just a cpu and one gpu, will be pretty solid. Though, i find they work best with medium speed (~1500rpm) all the time which can get noisy.

Have you thought about an intermediate rad (~45-47mm thick)?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Hey guys I just wanted to show my painted apogee hd waterblock in jamaican flag colors. Tell me what you all think. My wife gave me the idea.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> Hey guys I just wanted to show my painted apogee hd waterblock in jamaican flag colors. Tell me what you all think. My wife gave me the idea.


Wow, that's some nice paint work there mate


----------



## WebsterXC

Does anyone know if EK is going to be releasing a Z77 Crossfire Bridge in plexi?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

@Wermad Thanks Bro!! I am working on rebuilding my Jamaican Black Hawk Ultra Build. I have some new goodies coming tomorrow for my birthday from my wifey. I will post some more pictures up soon.


----------



## fakeblood

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09816_zps157c4bd7.jpg.html

New loop complete.


----------



## wermad

Well this is disappointing:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners


----------



## Kires

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well this is disappointing:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well this is disappointing:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners


It's because I bought some one of the first days they were available... sorry guys! If I'd waited for a year... it would be THOSE that were bad and the earlier batches would be just fine.









I was considering the idea of just using mine for the drain rather than my main loop... looks like that decision has been made for me.


----------



## wermad

I'm having reservations on getting QDCs from them as well.


----------



## Sunreeper

Anybody know where I can get the hard acrylic tubing that is the same size as the e22 stuff they sell at performance PC in Canada. I'd buy it from them but they absolutely slaughter in terms of shipping prices it would would be really helpful if somebody pointed me to the right direction


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm having reservations on getting QDCs from them as well.


I don't get the fasination with them anyway....I was led to believe they are restrictive at best.
Either way,this finish issue keeps cropping up with QDCs from BP and Koolance.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I don't get the fasination with them anyway....I was led to believe they are restrictive at best.
> Either way,this finish issue keeps cropping up with QDCs from BP and Koolance.


Well they definitely are in comparison to regular fittings... but at least for me it seemed like a decent compromise (at first) for pulling my board for upgrades without having to drain everything. Then as the reality of the situation dawned on me it just seemed stupid. After all - if I already have to disconnect all the power, SATA, USB, etc.. connections to remove the board... is draining everything enough of a hassle to even rate in this process. Not really.

They really only have a really useful purpose if used for connecting (and disconnecting) external cooling equipment - like if you were using a chiller and had an ancillary loop connection that you wanted to be able to simply close off but still have the main loop functional during this period. That's a pretty narrow use-case however.


----------



## kingchris

thanks for the input guys.

sound like it might be a go for monsta rads then. The plan starts.







updates as they happen.


----------



## siffonen

Finally its done














offtopic: I have a Alphacool VPP655 pump, is that blue wire with a 3-pin fan connector a rpm-signal wire?
I cant get any rpm readout by using one of the motherboard fan connector or a corsail link


----------



## mbed0123

Okay now a quick question to all the liquid cooled gurus/aficionados

The pressure that is in my reservoir when the 3 pumps are on is enough to substantially lower my water level by about 2.5-3".

What is a good thing/rule to go by when "capping off" my reservoir?
Do I do it when the pumps are on and the liquid is at its lowest or do I do when the pumps are off and then cap the fill port on the reservoir when ???

 

I just want to make sure so as I do not have unesseccary pressure positive/negative in my loop? Whichever one is "bad" I don't know.

Please check out my build log on here. I am always open to advice as to what to do and or not to do....we're always learning right?

Build Loghttp://www.overclock.net/t/1398973/build-log-caselabs-magnum-sth10-quad-titan-liquid-cooled-insanity-introducing-the-deskstar/0_100#post_20273652


----------



## Pebruska

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT!? Sorry...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> Okay now a quick question to all the liquid cooled gurus/aficionados
> 
> The pressure that is in my reservoir when the 3 pumps are on is enough to substantially lower my water level by about 2.5-3".
> 
> What is a good thing/rule to go by when "capping off" my reservoir?
> Do I do it when the pumps are on and the liquid is at its lowest or do I do when the pumps are off and then cap the fill port on the reservoir when ???
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just want to make sure so as I do not have unesseccary pressure positive/negative in my loop? Whichever one is "bad" I don't know.
> 
> Please check out my build log on here. I am always open to advice as to what to do and or not to do....we're always learning right?
> 
> Build Loghttp://www.overclock.net/t/1398973/build-log-caselabs-magnum-sth10-quad-titan-liquid-cooled-insanity-introducing-the-deskstar/0_100#post_20273652


If your res level drops when the pumps come on, it means you have major air bubbles trapped in the system that are compressing and increasing the effective loop volume so the res level drops, that when the pumps are turned off, return to their normal size, reducing the effective volume so the res appears fuller again.

Darlene


----------



## kingchris

***


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> that would be a huge downgrade


Is the gtx 480 a lot better then the gtx 360 then? When I look at this review it looks like the swiftech is better. Martin labels the swiftech as one of the best high performance radiators and also says its the best value rad you can buy. Is there other reviews disproving this?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09816_zps157c4bd7.jpg.html
> 
> 
> New loop complete.


Nice build!


----------



## SortOfGrim

sorry for the bad quality, but flipping the reservoir and adding the sponge does work


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well this is disappointing:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners


Dam.

Makes me kind of glad I couldn't get black ones and had to go for nickel.


----------



## mbed0123

So..... how would I go about effectively making sure the loop is free of air?

There are less and less air bubble every time the system is ran, but seems to be that the level still continues to drop. When on and all three pumps are @ 100% the level still drops according to load of pumps.

But to make sure that there isn't an issue with the loop and what is the best way to "cap off the reservoir" so that there is not going to be an issue?

Do I do it with the Pumps Running and cap it, or make sure that they're Off and the level recedes again and then cap it?

So flat out there's that much air in my loop somewhere that is making the level of my Res drop almost 2-2.5" when pumps are at their max?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> So..... how would I go about effectively making sure the loop is free of air?
> 
> There are less and less air bubble every time the system is ran, but seems to be that the level still continues to drop. When on and all three pumps are @ 100% the level still drops according to load of pumps.
> 
> But to make sure that there isn't an issue with the loop and what is the best way to "cap off the reservoir" so that there is not going to be an issue?
> 
> Do I do it with the Pumps Running and cap it, or make sure that they're Off and the level recedes again and then cap it?
> 
> So flat out there's that much air in my loop somewhere that is making the level of my Res drop almost 2-2.5" when pumps are at their max?


My loop does the same and i can assure you there is no air in mine,The fluid has been in there over a year now and no amount of shaking,pump pulsing or any other bleeding techniques change that.

However,the 'less and less airbubbles' shouldnt even be evident if the loop is well bled already.


----------



## mbed0123

Okay cool I was beginning to think that I was going to or had some serious issues..... I appreciate the help for sure.

This is still in the process of bleeding out all of the air, but since the phobya cpu waterblock I've got has a leak now and I "just" received the XSPC Raystorm I will be rectifying it all today.

Just glad that I have the whole mobo on QD's so that I just have to disconnect them and unplug any power cables, so the tray slides right out for operation. Also to mention I'll only lose what little bit of water in the MOBO/CPU loop, so that is an added bonus.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> Okay cool I was beginning to think that I was going to or had some serious issues..... I appreciate the help for sure.
> 
> This is still in the process of bleeding out all of the air, but since the phobya cpu waterblock I've got has a leak now and I "just" received the XSPC Raystorm I will be rectifying it all today.
> 
> Just glad that I have the whole mobo on QD's so that I just have to disconnect them and unplug any power cables, so the tray slides right out for operation. Also to mention I'll only lose what little bit of water in the MOBO/CPU loop, so that is an added bonus.


tried tipping the PC nearly upside down as its running? I "thought" I had all the air out of mine, when I did this my res was nearly 50% empty lol


----------



## fnyk

I just want to make sure so as I do not have unesseccary pressure positive/negative in my loop? Whichever one is "bad" I don't know.

Please check out my build log on here. I am always open to advice as to what to do and or not to do....we're always learning right?

Build Loghttp://www.overclock.net/t/1398973/build-log-caselabs-magnum-sth10-quad-titan-liquid-cooled-insanity-introducing-the-deskstar/0_100#post_20273652[/quote]

Fill it when its turnd of or have a samll hiden res Or Slid your loop up in two


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well this is disappointing:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners


That does look like plasticizer to me (yes I know he says he is using neoprene, I don't see how flaking metal would look blue like that.

I should have a set by Monday but I expected them to chip when I bought them so I won't be playing around w/ them trying to chip them. I will be using them only when necessary.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm having reservations on getting QDCs from them as well.


Their silver QD3s are fantastic. I wouldn't buy any other brand IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I don't get the fasination with them anyway....I was led to believe they are restrictive at best.
> Either way,this finish issue keeps cropping up with QDCs from BP and Koolance.


The QD2/3s have next to no pressure drop. Much less than their previous design. I also thought they were kind of useless until I bought a set earlier this near. Now I have 5. If used properly they can make rig maintenance and upgrading completely painless.


----------



## Canis-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Dam.
> 
> Makes me kind of glad I couldn't get black ones and had to go for nickel.


I got the nickel ones as well, which was fine since the rest of my fittings are also nickel. Water can erode anything if given enough time, just look at the Grand Canyon.....that and it is the universal solvent as well. It is very frustrating to see your dollars get ruined but it is also kind of interesting to see how quickly it can find the weaknesses and break them down.


----------



## mbed0123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> tried tipping the PC nearly upside down as its running? I "thought" I had all the air out of mine, when I did this my res was nearly 50% empty lol


I'd need at least two people to even think of that. this thing is 3' 6" tall and man I don't know weighs probably around 200lbs now that its all full..... not to mention on wheels at that.

I will try after I replace my CPU block today that is if I can get my buddies over to help out.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> I'd need at least two people to even think of that. this thing is 3' 6" tall and man I don't know weighs probably around 200lbs now that its all full..... not to mention on wheels at that.
> 
> I will try after I replace my CPU block today that is if I can get my buddies over to help out.


I bet it works, air sticks in the rad and speeding up your pumps wont shift it, I had mine on setting 5 for 3 hours, thought right that's in, ill just tip it to make sure and fizzlefizzlefizzlefizlle load of air came out!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> tried tipping the PC nearly upside down as its running? I "thought" I had all the air out of mine, when I did this my res was nearly 50% empty lol
> 
> 
> 
> I'd need at least two people to even think of that. this thing is 3' 6" tall and man I don't know weighs probably around 200lbs now that its all full..... not to mention on wheels at that.
> 
> I will try after I replace my CPU block today that is if I can get my buddies over to help out.
Click to expand...

There's only 2 reasonable explanations, and they aren't mutually exclusive, for why the loop volume would be greater the harder the pumps run, the usual one, as mentioned, is air trapped in the system.

The other would be from tubing expansion / bulge that occurs as the tubing warms up and becomes softer and more flexible therefore expanding a bit as pressure and temp increase.

Normally that just wouldn't be much of a factor, but you have a lot of tubing in a system that size, and if it were 7/16" or 1/2" X 5/8", the thinner than usual wall would make the effect much more significant.

Next time you start up from cold, pay attention to whether the res level drops slowly as the coolant has a chance to come up to operating temp.

Relatively immediate res level drop is trapped air, and additional drop as higher temps are reached is tubing expansion.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> tried tipping the PC nearly upside down as its running? I "thought" I had all the air out of mine, when I did this my res was nearly 50% empty lol
> 
> 
> 
> I'd need at least two people to even think of that. this thing is 3' 6" tall and man I don't know weighs probably around 200lbs now that its all full..... not to mention on wheels at that.
> 
> I will try after I replace my CPU block today that is if I can get my buddies over to help out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There's only 2 reasonable explanations, and they aren't mutually exclusive, for why the loop volume would be greater the harder the pumps run, the usual one, as mentioned, is air trapped in the system.
> 
> The other would be from tubing expansion / bulge that occurs as the tubing warms up and becomes softer and more flexible therefore expanding a bit as pressure and temp increase.
> 
> Normally that just wouldn't be much of a factor, but you have a lot of tubing in a system that size, and if it were 7/16" or 1/2" X 5/8", the thinner than usual wall would make the effect much more significant.
> 
> Next time you start up from cold, pay attention to whether the res level drops slowly as the coolant has a chance to come up to operating temp.
> 
> Relatively immediate res level drop is trapped air, and additional drop as higher temps are reached is tubing expansion.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

All good points.

However.

My loop is all copper and wont suffer the expansion issue mentioned.

My line of thinking led me to think that impingement CPU blocks might be the cause. I know water doesnt compress but there is a pressure differential,would that create the fluid level drop?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> I'd need at least two people to even think of that. this thing is 3' 6" tall and man I don't know weighs probably around 200lbs now that its all full..... not to mention on wheels at that.
> 
> I will try after I replace my CPU block today that is if I can get my buddies over to help out.


You don't have to dead lift the thing and twirl it above your head ... just tip it on its back, then on its side and then back again.

Making sure the pump intake is submerged the whole time of course.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> tried tipping the PC nearly upside down as its running? I "thought" I had all the air out of mine, when I did this my res was nearly 50% empty lol
> 
> 
> 
> I'd need at least two people to even think of that. this thing is 3' 6" tall and man I don't know weighs probably around 200lbs now that its all full..... not to mention on wheels at that.
> 
> I will try after I replace my CPU block today that is if I can get my buddies over to help out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There's only 2 reasonable explanations, and they aren't mutually exclusive, for why the loop volume would be greater the harder the pumps run, the usual one, as mentioned, is air trapped in the system.
> 
> The other would be from tubing expansion / bulge that occurs as the tubing warms up and becomes softer and more flexible therefore expanding a bit as pressure and temp increase.
> 
> Normally that just wouldn't be much of a factor, but you have a lot of tubing in a system that size, and if it were 7/16" or 1/2" X 5/8", the thinner than usual wall would make the effect much more significant.
> 
> Next time you start up from cold, pay attention to whether the res level drops slowly as the coolant has a chance to come up to operating temp.
> 
> Relatively immediate res level drop is trapped air, and additional drop as higher temps are reached is tubing expansion.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All good points.
> 
> However.
> 
> My loop is all copper and wont suffer the expansion issue mentioned.
> 
> My line of thinking led me to think that impingement CPU blocks might be the cause. I know water doesnt compress but there is a pressure differential,would that create the fluid level drop?
Click to expand...

I can not see any mechanism by which the CPU block could be the cause, nothing inherent in impingement indicates causality, and keep in mind, that if it were, it would do the same thing in all systems to a similar degree, and twice as much in SR2 type builds.

It's either trapped air, tubing expansion, or a combination of both.

Darlene


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Has anyone come across a really good 140MM fan for radiators?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## mbed0123

well I can honestly say that it isn't tubing expansion as I do not have any power to any component that is waterblocked at the moment.

I did get the new CPU block on there and it isn't leaking as I can see now, but an 8-10 hr run test should be enough to weed that out. The old Phobya block under close look I could easily see that the block itself the bracket and the acetyl top are all one piece sandwiched together. As I moved one of the arms to the bracket a little it was obvious the damn thing was barely screwed together!!! I mean wholly **** I could "SEE" the O ring it was that damn loose!!

I'm sorry but I'm not going to want to/have to "tighten" up my blocks because I think they'll be loose or something.... Just poorly made all the way from what I could tell.

So back to what I was saying about the filling of the res..... As FNYK said should I fill it when it is off and cap it then?

Also thank you Darlene for your input I appreciate the assistance here that's for sure....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Has anyone come across a really good 140MM fan for radiators?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


What radiator?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What radiator?


The Monsta 560MM radiator by Alphacool.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Has anyone come across a really good 140MM fan for radiators?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


If you have room for a 38mm thick one, this one blows everything else I tested out of the water:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=31238

The next best one I found was this one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=36931

The B gears, which have a number of supporters, was quite disappointing, bested considerably by Aerocool Sharks. The specs, especially static pressure, are terribly exaggerated.

From the blade shape and number, I would bet that the Akasa is about on par with the B gears.

As it is, I settled on a the San Aces on the push side with the Aerocools on the pull side of the GT-X.

Darlene.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have room for a 38mm thick one, this one blows everything else I tested out of the water:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=31238
> 
> The next best one I found was this one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=36931
> 
> The B gears, which have a number of supporters, was quite disappointing, bested considerably by Aerocool Sharks. The specs, especially static pressure, are terribly exaggerated.
> 
> From the blade shape and number, I would bet that the Akasa is about on par with the B gears.
> 
> As it is, I settled on a the San Aces on the push side with the Aerocools on the pull side of the GT-X.
> 
> Darlene.


Thank you very much! +rep! However, I think spending $50 on a fan is wayyyyy to much lol. Not a big fan of the aesthetics of those two fans either... how do you think *this* fan would do?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have room for a 38mm thick one, this one blows everything else I tested out of the water:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=31238
> 
> The next best one I found was this one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=36931
> 
> The B gears, which have a number of supporters, was quite disappointing, bested considerably by Aerocool Sharks. The specs, especially static pressure, are terribly exaggerated.
> 
> From the blade shape and number, I would bet that the Akasa is about on par with the B gears.
> 
> As it is, I settled on a the San Aces on the push side with the Aerocools on the pull side of the GT-X.
> 
> Darlene.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much! +rep! However, I think spending $50 on a fan is wayyyyy to much lol. Not a big fan of the aesthetics of those two fans either... how do you think *this* fan would do?
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

From my experience bitfenix fans are terrible they look nice but perform extremely bad


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I've done the "Diva Mod" to my Phantom 820 to install a 54mm thick radiator in push/pull. Stock, the radiator mount only allows for 70mm of rad space to the top of my motherboard. The only problem now is fitting the top of the case back in place. What I'm going to do now is cut a hole in the top of the case of the exact dimesion of the three fans on top of the rad to allow the fans to stick through and have it look sleek and sexy. Here is where I'm at.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I have heard good things all about San Ace fans in general. Just can't find a good supplier in Australia









But what I have read and learnt is there is no manufacturer who's stats are truthful









I am personally going to be trying the Arctic Cooling F14 PWM, they seem to get good reviews, and the PWM function is supposedly able to be daisy chained.

So multi fans run off the one PWM header.

But if not mistaken the Monsta rads are low FPI so they perform good with slow spinning fans, better with higher ones.

But have you checked this review out;

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/12/10/r7-140mm-fan-testing-on-a-hwlabs-sr1-radiator/


----------



## IT Diva

WAIT !!!!!!

You shouldn't have to cut anything in the plastics!

I can put 38mm tall fans under the plastics with a couple screws and bosses removed from the plastics.

That's an additional 13mm over where you'd be with 25mm fans.

If you've got the rad spaced up right, you should have 10mm of rad in the top, up to 3mm for the mounting plate, then 25mm for the fans.

If you're having to cut holes in the top plastics, something else isn't right.

Keep in mind, that you may pick up a few mm by countersinking the fan bodies and using flat head mounting screws, and a couple more with a flat plate without the little "dimples" that your recycled cut offs have, (or grind them off) and of course, with a 360, you can let the rad sit a few mm below the edge line of the mobo and still get the 8 pin plug in OK.

Darlene


----------



## Modest Mouse

So the calendar says it's June 26th but if you ask me it feels a lot like Christmas today


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have room for a 38mm thick one, this one blows everything else I tested out of the water:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=31238
> 
> The next best one I found was this one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=36931
> 
> The B gears, which have a number of supporters, was quite disappointing, bested considerably by Aerocool Sharks. The specs, especially static pressure, are terribly exaggerated.
> 
> From the blade shape and number, I would bet that the Akasa is about on par with the B gears.
> 
> As it is, I settled on a the San Aces on the push side with the Aerocools on the pull side of the GT-X.
> 
> Darlene.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much! +rep! However, I think spending $50 on a fan is wayyyyy to much lol. Not a big fan of the aesthetics of those two fans either... how do you think *this* fan would do?
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

I wouldn't personally buy any Bitfenix fan, moreover, having taken a few Bitfenix cables apart, I wouldn't buy, or use even if it was free, any Bitfenix product.

Darlene


----------



## kcuestag

Quick question, I bought some angled adapters (30º and 60º) like these I'm using on the top radiator:



I noticed they LEAK if I move them around while the loop is running, if I don't touch them then no leaks at all. Is this normal on adapters? They're alphacool adapters I believe.

Should I keep them? They do not leak as long as I don't touch them, but if I move them around (I need to actually move them a lot and force them a bit) they leak a little bit (Few water goats, no major leak).


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Has anyone come across a really good 140MM fan for radiators?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I heard good things about these


Spoiler: these






I haven't got to install them yet though. You can get them *here*
They are pwm with a sharing lead and the cable is presleeved. I think I paid $16 each on sale.


----------



## kcuestag

I changed the 60º adapter for a 30º adapter on the one that was leaking (Below 2nd GPU) and it doesn't seem to leak anymore even if I move it, hmm....

Edit:

Nevermind, this one also leaks if I move it while loop is running, if I don't, it won't leak. Is this normal on these rotable adapters?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I heard good things about these
> 
> 
> Spoiler: these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't got to install them yet though. You can get them *here*
> They are pwm with a sharing lead and the cable is presleeved. I think I paid $16 each on sale.


Arent these made for 120 mounts though? wouldnt really suit the purpose of having them on a 140 rad


----------



## gdubc

Figured if I had the room for that thick of a fan I would have the room for an adapter. They're the only thing I could find with high static pressure and 4-pin pwm. I'm replacing the bgears myself. They never failed on me and the performance was okay but they ran full speed the whole time.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I changed the 60º adapter for a 30º adapter on the one that was leaking (Below 2nd GPU) and it doesn't seem to leak anymore even if I move it, hmm....
> Edit:
> Nevermind, this one also leaks if I move it while loop is running, if I don't, it won't leak. Is this normal on these rotable adapters?


No fittings is supposed to leak even if you move them around I do have some angles fittings in my loop I have touched them and move them couples of time with my system running and no leaking at all , looks like you do have a bad batch or the fittings is not good at all. remove it before you can damage your hardware,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I changed the 60º adapter for a 30º adapter on the one that was leaking (Below 2nd GPU) and it doesn't seem to leak anymore even if I move it, hmm....
> Edit:
> Nevermind, this one also leaks if I move it while loop is running, if I don't, it won't leak. Is this normal on these rotable adapters?
> 
> 
> 
> No fittings is supposed to leak even if you move them around I do have some angles fittings in my loop I have touched them and move them couples of time with my system running and no leaking at all , looks like you do have a bad batch or the fittings is not good at all. remove it before you can damage your hardware,
Click to expand...

+1
No fitting should leak,although rotaries are prone to this due to the sealing method.
Is the leaking a recent thing or a 'since new' deal?
If its recent then remove them as its a degenerative condition and will likely get worse.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1
> No fitting should leak,although rotaries are prone to this due to the sealing method.
> Is the leaking a recent thing or a 'since new' deal?
> If its recent then remove them as its a degenerative condition and will likely get worse.


They're brand new, unused, I got them today.

As I stated they won't leak unless I actually force/move them while loop is running. Should I exchange them?

I've considered buying some Bitspowers adapters instead, but meanwhile I'd have to use these for a few days.

Edit:

I've been "leak testing" for the last 50 minutes or so, as long as I don't move them while loop is running, there's no leaks at all.

What should I do?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> They're brand new, unused, I got them today.
> 
> As I stated they won't leak unless I actually force/move them while loop is running. Should I exchange them?
> 
> I've considered buying some Bitspowers adapters instead, but meanwhile I'd have to use these for a few days.


with Bitspower you not going to have any leak's like that and no regret. my loop is all bitspower I was using koolance fittings before but they start to be chep0 so I moved to BP







, if you don't mind in having some paper towel under the fitting just to be safe, I would do it but if you don't have any hardware under the fittings you are ok I think.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> with Bitspower you not going to have any leak's like that and no regret. my loop is all bitspower I was using koolance fittings before but they start to be chep0 so I moved to BP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , if you don't mind in having some paper towel under the fitting just to be safe, I would do it but if you don't have any hardware under the fittings you are ok I think.


I do have the PSU under one of them but not above the cables so a few water drops would be ok as they would drop in the PSU cover, not on the connectors, but I will definitely leave a paper towel below them until I get the bitspowers, just in case!









Very dissapointed with Alphacool, I got 4x angled adapters in total, all 4 are leaking???









PS: It's been over an hour now and still no leaks if I don't touch them, weird.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Finally its done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> offtopic: I have a Alphacool VPP655 pump, is that blue wire with a 3-pin fan connector a rpm-signal wire?
> I cant get any rpm readout by using one of the motherboard fan connector or a corsail link


Lol hahaha that case 350d is literally the size of your desk!!!


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> with Bitspower you not going to have any leak's like that and no regret. my loop is all bitspower I was using koolance fittings before but they start to be chep0 so I moved to BP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , if you don't mind in having some paper towel under the fitting just to be safe, I would do it but if you don't have any hardware under the fittings you are ok I think.


I'm with skyn3t. I love my BP fittings. I have a 90 deg that is loose from side to side and I was sure it would leak when I installed it. I spend a lot of time staring at the fitting waiting for it to leak and it still hasn't. it spins with ease compared to the fitting when it was new, but no leak. if I were you, I would replace you "leaky" fittings before they get worse as B neg said. better to be safe then sorry if it leaks and you don't catch it in time. you have put a lot of work into your rig as I have seen. it would be a shame to let it get ruined from a $10.00 fitting(probably a little more across the pod). good luck and keep us posted


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Lol hahaha that case 350d is literally the size of your desk!!!


That's a 900D


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's a 900D


ah, what's 550 d's between friends


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Anybody know where I can get the hard acrylic tubing that is the same size as the e22 stuff they sell at performance PC in Canada. I'd buy it from them but they absolutely slaughter in terms of shipping prices it would would be really helpful if somebody pointed me to the right direction


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks guys, I'm definitely ordering those Bitspower most likely tomorrow, meanwhile I'll place some paper towels below those "leaky" adapters just in case to play it safe.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks guys, I'm definitely ordering those Bitspower most likely tomorrow, meanwhile I'll place some paper towels below those "leaky" adapters just in case to play it safe.












PS: I was thinking do this order in my loop, I know it doesn't' matter but what you think?

pump/res250mm >> rx360 >> cpu >> rx240 >> gpu >> gpu >> rx240 >> and cycle again...


----------



## wermad

Deleted, not worth it folks.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Hey gals and guys just showing you some more pictures of my jamaican black hawk ultra build. Tell me what you think!! Will post more when finished.







:thumb:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> Hey gals and guys just showing you some more pictures of my jamaican black hawk ultra build. Tell me what you think!! Will post more when finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Saw this beauty at ppcs.com. Didn't know they are now carrying LE:
> 
> 
> 
> (MSI Big Bang Z77 Mpower)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38179


No no no no no no no, don't order it! It's no bueno.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> No no no no no no no, don't order it! It's no bueno.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


?

Leaks or something?

I don't need it tbh since I'm running 3-way







But just wanted to post a pic.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ?
> 
> Leaks or something?
> 
> I don't need it tbh since I'm running 3-way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But just wanted to post a pic.


The quality is crap. Another user here on OCN purchased it and he can't believe how horrible it was. He had his nickel plated and the guy that did that obviously didn't know anything because it turned out like crap so I offered to pay for the re-plating if he mails it out to me. I have a guy that I take my stuff too (you've seen his work, it's amazing).

I would avoid it, not that great of workmanship.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Xyrrath

Today received first part of my WC loop

XSPC RayStorm 750 RS240
XSPC RS120

There is something wrong with the tubing I got with the kit tho. looks like there are hairs inside the tube (might be tears)

Just now I ordered:

4-Pin PWM Y-Splitter (2x PWM + 1x 3-pin) 30CM
EK-FC Titan XXL Edition incl. Backplate
Mayhems Pastel - Sunset Yellow - MD-P-SY
Noctua 120mm NF-F12 PWM x4
Tygon R3603 Tubing

Hope to have this in house before the weekend so I can do something saturday/sunday


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> The quality is crap. Another user here on OCN purchased it and he can't believe how horrible it was. He had his nickel plated and the guy that did that obviously didn't know anything because it turned out like crap so I offered to pay for the re-plating if he mails it out to me. I have a guy that I take my stuff too (you've seen his work, it's amazing).
> 
> I would avoid it, not that great of workmanship.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Well, block is made by Liquid Extasy but if someone else plated it incorrectly, how does it make it a bad block?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Today received first part of my WC loop
> 
> XSPC RayStorm 750 RS240
> XSPC RS120
> 
> *There is something wrong with the tubing I got with the kit tho. looks like there are hairs inside the tube (might be tears)
> *
> Just now I ordered:
> 
> 4-Pin PWM Y-Splitter (2x PWM + 1x 3-pin) 30CM
> EK-FC Titan XXL Edition incl. Backplate
> Mayhems Pastel - Sunset Yellow - MD-P-SY
> Noctua 120mm NF-F12 PWM x4
> Tygon R3603 Tubing
> 
> Hope to have this in house before the weekend so I can do something saturday/sunday


Could be fibers from the packing materials. Have you tried flushing it out and see if it comes off?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Anybody know where I can get the hard acrylic tubing that is the same size as the e22 stuff they sell at performance PC in Canada. I'd buy it from them but they absolutely slaughter in terms of shipping prices it would would be really helpful if somebody pointed me to the right direction
Click to expand...

Try asking Dazmode if he intends to bring any in, that's about the only place that you would even have a remote chance of buying it in Canada.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, block is made by Liquid Extasy but if someone else plated it incorrectly, how does it make it a bad block?


Check out this thread, I linked you to the post where the guy who bought the blocks shows you how the block looks.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1301287/custom-waterblocks-any-like-liquid-extasy-de/20#post_20201365

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Check out this thread, I linked you to the post where the guy who bought the blocks shows you how the block looks.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1301287/custom-waterblocks-any-like-liquid-extasy-de/20#post_20201365
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Yikes! Yeah, not sure what went wrong there but apparently a lot did. And its a German company after all! Sucks for that member


----------



## nleksan

I think that the issue with the Liquid Extasy blocks is mostly surrounding how the owner/manufacturer handled the problem... As in, he blamed on his sub-contractor and refused to take responsibility for a product that HE made and sold. I could care less if they were so good they pooped rainbows, if a company basically tells its customers to bugger off, they are not getting my business. It's unfortunate, as this company seemed like it had some potential, but just because you are a talented craftsman doesn't mean you know how to run a business, or at least the PR side... :/


----------



## Modest Mouse

Are Bitspower CPU blocks any good? This one caught my eye but I don't remember seeing many people run much outside of EK, Phobya or XSPC blocks.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16246/ex-blc-1127/Bitspower_Summit_EF_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_Ice_Black_Acrylic_BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKIBK.html?tl=g30c323s1694


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> Are Bitspower CPU blocks any good? This one caught my eye but I don't remember seeing many people run much outside of EK, Phobya or XSPC blocks.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16246/ex-blc-1127/Bitspower_Summit_EF_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_Ice_Black_Acrylic_BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKIBK.html?tl=g30c323s1694


Pretty solid:



http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038985356


----------



## Modest Mouse

Ask and you shall receive. + Rep Wermad. Looking around for something that might be a bit off the radar but still a solid performer. Was looking at that Heatkiller 3.0 too. Ah hell too many to choose from lol.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Check out this thread, I linked you to the post where the guy who bought the blocks shows you how the block looks.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1301287/custom-waterblocks-any-like-liquid-extasy-de/20#post_20201365
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I put on my flame ******ant jumpsuit and read the whole thread. OUCH. I work for a four letter computer company that begins with the letter D and as a Level 3 Technical Supervisor I get to deal with people on a Global level. There are communication barriers, as well as cultural, regional law and ethics differences that all have to be overcome. This is a classic example of those differences. It is sad to see the entire situation spin chaotically out of control, particularly in a public forum. It's an epic fail for both parties involved.
I'm sure that nearly everyone in this group can relate to attempting a never before done modification and screwing it up royally. It's a risk everyone of us takes when we push-pull-cut-electrically enhance-manipulate or out and out create a wholly new device or product for our builds. BUT we accept that risk, both personally AND financially. NEITHER party in this particular case is without fault. The owner doesn't accept responsibility for HIS product, whether he personally crafts it or has someone else doing the work it is still HIS brand name. I support the systems mass produced by my employer with the same personal level of quality as the systems I custom build for people. I didn't build the mass produced system, nor did I personally construct every device installed in my custom built rigs but they still represent me and/or my brand. For the purchaser's part, shame on you for not reading the fine print and doing some homework before diving right into a deal to have one of a kind custom work done and then expect it to be done inexpensively and FAST. Custom work of ANY kind follows 2 very basic (albeit cliche) rules:
#1 You Get What You Pay For - Going cheaper GENERALLY means sacrificing some level of quality.
#2 Rome Was Not Built In a Day - If you don't have patience and you need everything done yesterday then PLEASE buy mass produced retail.
As I said, I do not condone EITHER party's actions regarding what I will always remember as the German Custom Block Fiasco and I hope everyone walks away with the knowledge to ASK QUESTIONS, Do research on the company you are shopping (especially if they are not in your local area or country) and either select companies that can effectively communicate in a language in which you are fluent or consult with a translator before laying down your hard earned coins. I am descending from my soapbox now....my most sincere apologies for the length of this post. B Negative, please forgive me, but this just hit a sore spot with me....I'm all better now


----------



## rationalthinking

Did I just waste $9.99?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Anybody know where I can get the hard acrylic tubing that is the same size as the e22 stuff they sell at performance PC in Canada. I'd buy it from them but they absolutely slaughter in terms of shipping prices it would would be really helpful if somebody pointed me to the right direction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Try asking Dazmode if he intends to bring any in, that's about the only place that you would even have a remote chance of buying it in Canada.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info +rep








Would you bye chance know of a place that sells them other than performance PC so I can save in some shipping?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Did I just waste $9.99?


Possibly the best 10 bucks you've ever spent. I woulda bought a few at that price


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

I hear they are about equivalent to the original Corsair H50, perhaps slightly inferior build quality...for $10, a steal though.


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Did I just waste $9.99?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Possibly the best 10 bucks you've ever spent. I woulda bought a few at that price
Click to expand...

Plan is to bench it against my H100i currently on the test bench. Will be awesome to compare $99.99 vs $9.99,


----------



## Sunreeper

Link to 10$ clc? I want to see how it performs against the cooler master 212 evo


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> Ask and you shall receive. + Rep Wermad. Looking around for something that might be a bit off the radar but still a solid performer. Was looking at that Heatkiller 3.0 too. Ah hell too many to choose from lol.


Np







. Keep in mind this was on an LGA2011, so it might run cooler on your SB. I've resisted the urge to switch out my DD M6 since i got it cheap and it keeps the cpu cores ~60-65c @ 4.8. @ 5.0 I'm skimming 80c on some of the cores. Might just get another one if I can drop a good 5-7c @ 5.0.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Did I just waste $9.99?


Awesome score!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Anybody know where I can get the hard acrylic tubing that is the same size as the e22 stuff they sell at performance PC in Canada. I'd buy it from them but they absolutely slaughter in terms of shipping prices it would would be really helpful if somebody pointed me to the right direction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Try asking Dazmode if he intends to bring any in, that's about the only place that you would even have a remote chance of buying it in Canada.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the info +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you bye chance know of a place that sells them other than performance PC so I can save in some shipping?
Click to expand...

Thank-you.








I have found FrozenCPU to have lower shipping rates to Canada than PerformancePC, but I only see Primochill Acrylic tubing and the Ghost fittings listed there.
www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c633/s2020/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Rigid_Acrylic-12_OD_Rigid_Tubing-Page1.html
You still get dinged buying from out of Canada though. The only thing in acrylic tubing that Dazmode sells right now is Bitspower Crystal Link and fittings.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pretty solid:
> 
> 
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038985356


I just installed a Summit EF. While the vast majority goes with EK or XSPC, I went with Bitspower for aesthetic reasons to match all my Bitspower parts. And to my surprise, it actually performs better than my Swiftech Apogee HD. The Summit EF yielded a lower delta in hotter ambient temps than my Apogee HD in colder ambient temps. Both blocks have excellent mounting solutions but the Apogee HD is a little better.

Here's a video I made of it:




Btw, here's a teaser of my build at the moment:


----------



## Modest Mouse

@ Wermad:

This block is going into my new build not the current sig rig. It'll be hopping on top of a 3770K I'm putting together









Damn Joejoe that is schmexy as all hell....you're post may have sealed the deal as Wermad posted that chart in response to my post about BP CPU Block performance







to both of you


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Link to 10$ clc? I want to see how it performs against the cooler master 212 evo


http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7622498

They are or was Free Shipping this past weekend, idk if that still applies. It looks to be exactly the same as my old H50.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> Damn Joejoe that is schmexy as all hell....you're post may have sealed the deal as Wermad posted that chart in response to my post about BP CPU Block performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to both of you


The Summit EF is a very attractive and effective block, at least in my system. Numbers don't mean anything until you get one yourself. Your system, which may have different CPU, rads, fans (or fan speeds), and ambient temps compared to the tester's system can either be better or worse. The proof is in the pudding.


----------



## Modest Mouse

Couldn't have said it better myself


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> @ Wermad:
> 
> This block is going into my new build not the current sig rig. It'll be hopping on top of a 3770K I'm putting together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn Joejoe that is schmexy as all hell....you're post may have sealed the deal as Wermad posted that chart in response to my post about BP CPU Block performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to both of you


Well, the BP is better then my M6 so its great choice all around, especially if you like the BP bling factor









As JoeJoe pointed out, sometimes, its nice to separate yourself from the mainstream pack. Even if it costs you a few, and very minor, degrees


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, the BP is better then my M6 so its great choice all around, especially if you like the BP bling factor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As JoeJoe pointed out, sometimes, its nice to separate yourself from the mainstream pack. *Even if it costs you a few, and very minor, degrees
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


+1

And we're definitely talking about minor... although the chart looks like there's a huge difference... from the very worst block to the very best block in it's optimal configuration you're talking about a difference in CPU temp of ~6.5C now it's possible that's enough to keep you from reaching your CPUs 'ultimate overclock' but it shouldn't keep you from achieving a 'very good one'.

And that's just the difference between the extremes... for most of the blocks listed the difference between them is ~1-1.5C... _at the CPU_ which is unlikely to even be noticed - even if you are going for the ultimate OC.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Link to 10$ clc? I want to see how it performs against the cooler master 212 evo
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7622498
> 
> They are or was Free Shipping this past weekend, idk if that still applies. It looks to be exactly the same as my old H50.
Click to expand...

Thanks +rep


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pretty solid:
> 
> 
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038985356
> 
> 
> 
> I just installed a Summit EF. While the vast majority goes with EK or XSPC, I went with Bitspower for aesthetic reasons to match all my Bitspower parts. And to my surprise, it actually performs better than my Swiftech Apogee HD. The Summit EF yielded a lower delta in hotter ambient temps than my Apogee HD in colder ambient temps. Both blocks have excellent mounting solutions but the Apogee HD is a little better.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a video I made of it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, here's a teaser of my build at the moment:
Click to expand...

Wow great job now I can't choose between the supremacy and this









No but seriously good job


----------



## mav2000

Two questions for you guys.

1. I am planning to have the drain fit to one of the four ports on the pump top. Is this safe. The pump will be the lowest part of the loop.

2. I changed the acrylic tube on the ek x2 res I have from a 100 to a 200mm. I now have a slow leak at the bottom between the acrylic and the bottom Pom piece, basically where the acrylic tube screws into the Pom. I added a slightly thicker liang ddc rubber o ring on top of the usual thin one and now the leaks have stopped. Is it safe to run it like this?

I had the leak problem earlier as well, but for some reason it went away. I don't remember what I did the last time around to stop it though,


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> Couldn't have said it better myself


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, the BP is better then my M6 so its great choice all around, especially if you like the BP bling factor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As JoeJoe pointed out, sometimes, its nice to separate yourself from the mainstream pack. Even if it costs you a few, and very minor, degrees


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> +1
> 
> And we're definitely talking about minor... although the chart looks like there's a huge difference... from the very worst block to the very best block in it's optimal configuration you're talking about a difference in CPU temp of ~6.5C now it's possible that's enough to keep you from reaching your CPUs 'ultimate overclock' but it shouldn't keep you from achieving a 'very good one'.
> 
> And that's just the difference between the extremes... for most of the blocks listed the difference between them is ~1-1.5C... _at the CPU_ which is unlikely to even be noticed - even if you are going for the ultimate OC.


Yes, I'm not one to achieve record breaking water cooling temps. Hell, I've already cut down almost 30°C at 4.7GHz by de-lidding my 3770K. Adding a couple degrees in exchange for matching bling is definitely worth it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> Two questions for you guys.
> 
> 1. I am planning to have the drain fit to one of the four ports on the pump top. Is this safe. The pump will be the lowest part of the loop.
> 
> 2. I changed the acrylic tube on the ek x2 res I have from a 100 to a 200mm. I now have a slow leak at the bottom between the acrylic and the bottom Pom piece, basically where the acrylic tube screws into the Pom. I added a slightly thicker liang ddc rubber o ring on top of the usual thin one and now the leaks have stopped. Is it safe to run it like this?
> 
> I had the leak problem earlier as well, but for some reason it went away. I don't remember what I did the last time around to stop it though,


I'd take that o-ring out and replace it for a brand new one that's made for it. Band-aid's aren't permanent...


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Could be fibers from the packing materials. Have you tried flushing it out and see if it comes off?


Yes I did with no luck scared to use it so i bought 2meters of new tubing just to be sure.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Possibly the best 10 bucks you've ever spent. I woulda bought a few at that price


I just bought this EK waterblock for my GTX 690 PLUS the aesthetic backplate, both new and unused, in an auction on ebay for £10.50. Normal list price for the two items totals £124.


----------



## kcuestag

Annnnnnnnnd it's done!



No leaks so far overnight!









But I'm definitely replacing the cheap 30º and 60º adapters for some bitspowers asap.

What do you guys think? Much better now? This is how I had it earlier:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Annnnnnnnnd it's done!
> 
> 
> 
> No leaks so far overnight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm definitely replacing the cheap 30º and 60º adapters for some bitspowers asap.
> 
> What do you guys think? Much better now? This is how I had it earlier:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dont tell me that you are runing a asus rampahe 4 extreme with only 2 ram blocks
That is a little fail in my eyes


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Dont tell me that you are runing a asus rampahe 4 extreme with only 2 ram blocks
> That is a little fail in my eyes


Yes I am, by the time I got it (December 2012) I had 8GB and for gaming and daily usage I don't need more than this, so I do not plan to buy more RAM sticks until I actually need them.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yes I am, by the time I got it (December 2012) I had 8GB and for gaming and daily usage I don't need more than this, so I do not plan to buy more RAM sticks until I actually need them.


Thats why I got the RIVF instead lol, my case arrives today, can finally get my rig up and running today!


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Annnnnnnnnd it's done!
> 
> 
> 
> No leaks so far overnight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm definitely replacing the cheap 30º and 60º adapters for some bitspowers asap.
> 
> What do you guys think? Much better now? This is how I had it earlier:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a whole lot of radiator power lol.

Looks nice! Id sleeve the cables and put some memory in that beast.


----------



## Ash2097

Does adding pull to a push system make much of a difference? I have a 200mm rad with push and a 240 (XT45) with push. I have the option off adding pull to the 240mm rad, will it be worth it?

EDIT- using Typhoon 1850 fans and the rad is a 240mm Alphacool XT45.


----------



## derickwm

Looks like it does have memory  although it does need a little bit more.


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Does adding pull to a push system make much of a difference? I have a 200mm rad with push and a 240 (XT45) with push. I have the option off adding pull to the 240mm rad, will it be worth it?
> 
> EDIT- using Typhoon 1850 fans and the rad is a 240mm Alphacool XT45.


Maybe 1-2c, so no, unless you're ready to make your rig louder for few degrees.


----------



## illuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Does adding pull to a push system make much of a difference? I have a 200mm rad with push and a 240 (XT45) with push. I have the option off adding pull to the 240mm rad, will it be worth it?
> 
> EDIT- using Typhoon 1850 fans and the rad is a 240mm Alphacool XT45.


It may decrease your temps by 1-2'c, but many say it doesn't affect them that much. Test it out? Think of it this way: you'll only benefit.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Does adding pull to a push system make much of a difference? I have a 200mm rad with push and a 240 (XT45) with push. I have the option off adding pull to the 240mm rad, will it be worth it?
> 
> EDIT- using Typhoon 1850 fans and the rad is a 240mm Alphacool XT45.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe 1-2c, so no, unless you're ready to make your rig louder for few degrees.
Click to expand...

Or he could make it quieter and have either the same performance or better by being able to lower RPMs on both fans.


----------



## Ash2097

Thanks for the info, not going to bother messing about for a few degrees.


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Or he could make it quieter and have either the same performance or better by being able to lower RPMs on both fans.


Yeah


----------



## kcuestag

So far seems like at full load I have a delta of ~13-14ºC, this is with all fans at around 1200 rpm, very happy with the results and the Monsta rad.









I'm ordering the Bitspower 30º 60º and 90º adapters tonight, they better be good, they're expensive as hell! D


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> So far seems like at full load I have a delta of ~13-14ºC, this is with all fans at around 1200 rpm, very happy with the results and the Monsta rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ordering the Bitspower 30º 60º and 90º adapters tonight, they better be good, they're expensive as hell! D


Definitely it worth the money. + it does look way better


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys on that small circle hole on the 3930k (no idea why it's there), there is thermal paste in there from my last mount, will that effect it? , why is there even a whole on the chip?


----------



## JohnnyEars

I've been using AMD's for years, I thought it was about time I joined the intel crowd at last.
So It was a lengthy battle as to the choice of CPU and motherboard, I eventually decided on the Haswell i5 4670k (unlocked) CPU and the MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming motherboard.
This decision gave me a few more "issues" mainly colour theme, as my pc is blue themed at the mo (inc my ram), and all the decent Z87 mobo's aren't, so I grabbed 16gb of the highly rated G.Skill Trident X RAM, rated at 2400MHz (nice red cooling fins) 2 ltrs of Mayhems new pastel red coolant, and a roll of Masterkleer 13/19 mm hose.
Luckily I purchased my CPU cooling block with a possible intel future in mind... (Koolance CPU 370)
So next I need to strip the whole lot down and flush all the rads and cooling blocks to shift any blue out of the system. Colour code the 24 pin, 8 pin and 2x 6 pin cables and whack it all together again..
I'll post a before/after pic in a few days


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Annnnnnnnnd it's done!
> 
> 
> 
> No leaks so far overnight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm definitely replacing the cheap 30º and 60º adapters for some bitspowers asap.
> 
> What do you guys think? Much better now? This is how I had it earlier:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The new one (first, not in spoiler) is much better and cleaner








btw, i think white PCI-E 6 & 8 pin extensions for the GPUs could be a great little touch. (also, just noticed the drain plug in the pic looks a bit like a wine bottle







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> So far seems like at full load I have a delta of ~13-14ºC, this is with all fans at around 1200 rpm, very happy with the results and the Monsta rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ordering the Bitspower 30º 60º and 90º adapters tonight, they better be good, they're expensive as hell! D


obviously they will be good, because they are the last order before the next storm (since WC is addictive







)


----------



## kcuestag

I just ordered them!



I've considered some white sleeved extensions but that'll have to wait. That EK top for the D5 pump is for another OCN member who lives in Spain, we did a "shared" order in Caseking.de so we could share the high shipping costs. p

Can't wait to test those Bitspower adapters, they look good.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yes I am, by the time I got it (December 2012) I had 8GB and for gaming and daily usage I don't need more than this, so I do not plan to buy more RAM sticks until I actually need them.


But it looks wrong
Im useing a rampage 4 gene with 16 gb and is only useing 5 gb max
I only use it becos it looks better and becos i got them for free from my work ^^ good part about working in a plase ther is building gaming pc's only ^^


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> But it looks wrong
> Im useing a rampage 4 gene with 16 gb and is only useing 5 gb max
> I only use it becos it looks better and becos i got them for free from my work ^^ good part about working in a plase ther is building gaming pc's only ^^


Don't worry, I'll get 16GB or more next month most likely when I go to the Euskal Encounter lan party, there's a hardware store that brings lots of goods there with nice discounts.


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Dont tell me that you are runing a asus rampahe 4 extreme with only 2 ram blocks
> That is a little fail in my eyes


I said the same thing!

If you can afford one of those monstas you can TOTALLY afford some more RAM, man! It looks so lonely in there









Also I really like what you did with your tubes, it looks much cleaner! I bet you get incredible temps with that much rad space, I have an RX240 and an EX360 and that's more than enough rad space for what I have, I idle at like 22c, so I imagine that you get SUPER low deltas!


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I just ordered them!
> 
> 
> 
> I've considered some white sleeved extensions but that'll have to wait. That EK top for the D5 pump is for another OCN member who lives in Spain, we did a "shared" order in Caseking.de so we could share the high shipping costs. p
> 
> Can't wait to test those Bitspower adapters, they look good.


Yeah, I am a little upset with last pump top ----> thread


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Don't worry, I'll get 16GB or more next month most likely when I go to the Euskal Encounter lan party, there's a hardware store that brings lots of goods there with nice discounts.


Remimber to run a memtest on them then
Its a program you download then burn it on to a usb by opeing the program and have a empty usb and the say in the boot menu boot from usb and let it run adlist one pass i rekameny 3 to be more save
Becos sometimes the error/fail first coms in later pass like pasd5 or ad i have seen it pass 20


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have room for a 38mm thick one, this one blows everything else I tested out of the water:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=31238
> 
> The next best one I found was this one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=36931
> 
> The B gears, which have a number of supporters, was quite disappointing, bested considerably by Aerocool Sharks. The specs, especially static pressure, are terribly exaggerated.
> 
> From the blade shape and number, I would bet that the Akasa is about on par with the B gears.
> 
> As it is, I settled on a the San Aces on the push side with the Aerocools on the pull side of the GT-X.
> 
> Darlene.


Late to the party, but the Akasa Vipers are gangbusters, in either the hybrid frame (14cm blade, 12cm mounting holes) or the standard 14cm frame. I bought them for their looks originally (the numbers were a gamble) and they turned out to be a total winner!

Other than that, the 35mm Silverstone FHP-141 is AMAZING, if you can get it to fit anywhere, but if you can and can spare, the Diva is correct; the San Aces are the bees' knees!

Thanks - T


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> So the calendar says it's June 26th but if you ask me it feels a lot like Christmas today


merry Christmas







love the presents Santa sold you


----------



## Modest Mouse

Haha thanks Rob...except I want to go back to the days when someone else footed the bill for "Santa's presents"


----------



## ToothBear

if i were to add a pressure gauge to myloop, what kind of range would i want to use?


----------



## robcowboy73

Thats sound good to me but can you see your self on a monster pc that can only play lemmings doom and it tacks 20 min to load I DON'T THINK SO can you remember the Commodore 64 with the tapes you load the games from I do


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> if i were to add a pressure gauge to myloop, what kind of range would i want to use?


I'd think only 2 or 3 bar if there was moor than that you will start blowing o-rings


----------



## B NEGATIVE

My bloody camera isnt coming up via USB so its the quite shocking cam phone.....

Needs the lines tweaking but the loop is almost done!!!



You cannot believe how much of a ba$74£d this was to get in....



Plenty tube yes?

Bittech said it looks like a 'nuclear powerplant'


----------



## ToothBear

looks great! phobya fittings, rigth?


----------



## khemist

Just trying new camera out.


----------



## MetallicAcid

A nuclear power plant of *"AWESOME!"*

MetallicAcid


----------



## ProfeZZor X

My D5 Alphacool pump just went out on me late last week, so I had to order a new one. From what it sounds like, there appears to be something chewing up the inside of the pump top, the propellor came loose, or something else entirely. Whatever the case is, without even deconstructing the bay/pump, you can hear something terrible going on in there that would scare any water cool enthusiast. I may end up making a video and posting it on Youtube, just to prove my point.

Aside from that, I've had my case up and running since October of last year and I'm already tired of my configuration. During that time I've had to shut my PC down daily when I go to sleep because of the amount of light it emits from the 13 LED fans entertwined in the case, and shining through my plexiglass side window, and front and top vents. If I leave it on at night, it illuminates the room to the point where I don't need to turn on the bedroom lights. So with that said, it's got me thinking about upgrading my rig without all the lighting. I'd also like to do a little case modding, so I'll have to think of a good case to modify but with excellent internal storage to fit a few extreme 360 or 480 rads... Any suggestions?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> My D5 Alphacool pump just went out on me late last week, so I had to order a new one. From what it sounds like, there appears to be something chewing up the inside of the pump top, the propellor came loose, or something else entirely. Whatever the case is, without even deconstructing the bay/pump, you can hear something terrible going on in there that would scare any water cool enthusiast. I may end up making a video and posting it on Youtube, just to prove my point.
> 
> Aside from that, I've had my case up and running since October of last year and I'm already tired of my configuration. During that time I've had to shut my PC down daily when I go to sleep because of the amount of light it emits from the 13 LED fans entertwined in the case, and shining through my plexiglass side window, and front and top vents. If I leave it on at night, it illuminates the room to the point where I don't need to turn on the bedroom lights. So with that said, it's got me thinking about upgrading my rig without all the lighting. I'd also like to do a little case modding, so I'll have to think of a good case to modify but with excellent internal storage to fit a few extreme 360 or 480 rads... Any suggestions?


Have you looked at the Switch 810? You can construct a pedestal for it that could be used to house a 480, or with some modding the top could even house a 480. There are also the Rosewill Black Hawk Utra and the Xigmatek Elysium that you could modify without too many issues for the water cooling that you're suggesting.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

A legend is reborn...



You can find more in my build log titled Mitternacht.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## _REAPER_

4 more days until I get to build my PC god I am looking forward to it...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Here are some pics of my current build, still a work in progress, just though id share my progress!


----------



## phillyd

Hey guys, I have a friend wanting to water cool his RAM with EK blocks. He has G.Skill RAM. Can you guys help me find a clear, nickel and non CSQ block for these?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a friend wanting to water cool his RAM with EK blocks. He has G.Skill RAM. Can you guys help me find a clear, nickel and non CSQ block for these?


Most of the ram blocks are for Dominators. Here's some universal ones:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/ram-blocks/ek-ram-monarch-module-black-2pcs.html

Koolance has universal ram blocks. It can get expensive and complex tbh. Easier to get some used Doms and a used block.

EK has three Dom blocks:

-X6 is for up to six dimms (lga 1366)
-x4 four dimms
-x2 two dimms


----------



## Sunreeper

Hey guys I would really appreciate some help from you guys. I've only made one water cooling build in which I have used only basic compression and some barb fittings. I have always wanted to do a hard acrylic water cooling build using the bitspower c47 and c48 fittings, however as I mentioned earlier I do not have any experience with all these different fittings. It would be really really helpful if you guys pointed out all the different fittings these people have used in their builds with hard acrylic. I live in Canada and the only big water cooling store we have here is Dazmodes when I checked the site for their bitspower fittings I was really overwhelmed and some of there fittings are really expensive so yeah I'd be really grateful if somebody could provide me links to dazmodes with the different fittings these guys use. The ones I'm really interested in are the angled ones which are useful for making the acrylic go in straight lines that are aesthetically pleasing.
Another question I have is if it would be possible to water cool corsair vengeance ram or will I have to sell it and try to pick up some dominator memory?
Once again guys thank you so much








These were the builds I was referring to:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Btw, here's a teaser of my build at the moment:


----------



## briddell

I believe they are called plug fittings, same ones you would use for copper piping, if I recall correctly.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> I believe they are called plug fittings, same ones you would use for copper piping, if I recall correctly.


Yeah people also use the bitspower c47 and c48 fittings as well but those are not the ones I'm interested in I'm talking about the angled fittings and all the others ones that connect to them so that you can actually use the hard acrylic tubing in straight lines if that makes sense


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> A legend is reborn...
> 
> 
> I had one of those but the i was selling it to a friend from work
> 
> You can find more in my build log titled Mitternacht.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


----------



## sebar

These guys are using rotary fittings, some are single rotary 90 degree fittings and some and dual and triple rotary fittings. Take a look here to see the different rotary fittings available from Bitspower. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_611
They are also using various sizes of extensions in order to get the different sections lined up properly. It is a lot of trial and error when getting the fittings to all line up.


----------



## Sunreeper

Thanks a lot for the information sebar +rep!







would all of those rotary and extension fittings work with the bitspower c47 and c48 fittings?
Edit: also what is the difference between single, dual,and triple rotary fittings?


----------



## JohnnyEars

@Sunreeper A single rotary allows swivel movement in one place, a dual allows movement in 2 places and a triple, 3.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Thanks a lot for the information sebar +rep!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would all of those rotary and extension fittings work with the bitspower c47 and c48 fittings?
> Edit: also what is the difference between single, dual,and triple rotary fittings?


Any of the fittings that do not already have a barb or compression fitting attached will work with the C47 and C48 fittings. Single dual and triple rotary refers to the number of rotation points on the fitting. Single rotary will rotate around the base of the fitting. Dual rotary will rotate around the base of the fitting and around the center. and triple rotary will rotate at the base on both ends and the center.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a friend wanting to water cool his RAM with EK blocks. He has G.Skill RAM. Can you guys help me find a clear, nickel and non CSQ block for these?


The actual block itself? I was actually looking for a non CSQ block myself and I ended up emailing support and found out how. You buy the regular nickle block, then you purchase the clean top from the spare parts area. It costs about 20$ more, but I was never a fan of CSQ myself so it won't bother me much when I end up buying it.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> @Sunreeper A single rotary allows swivel movement in one place, a dual allows movement in 2 places and a triple, 3.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Thanks a lot for the information sebar +rep!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would all of those rotary and extension fittings work with the bitspower c47 and c48 fittings?
> Edit: also what is the difference between single, dual,and triple rotary fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> Any of the fittings that do not already have a barb or compression fitting attached will work with the C47 and C48 fittings. Single dual and triple rotary refers to the number of rotation points on the fitting. Single rotary will rotate around the base of the fitting. Dual rotary will rotate around the base of the fitting and around the center. and triple rotary will rotate at the base on both ends and the center.
Click to expand...

Thanks to both of you so these guys loops are made with a combination of these rotatary and extension fittings? Just want to make sure I got everything correct and are there any main adavantages over going for one rotary over another or is it just to make everything fit using the least amount of pieces.
Thanks again


----------



## sebar

It really is just trial and error,especially on such a complicated set up like these guys have, use what fits the best.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> It really is just trial and error,especially on such a complicated set up like these guys have, use what fits the best.


Okey dokey thanks again







guess I'm going to have to buy a bunch of them and hope they fit, which is bad for my wallet D:


----------



## sebar

I know all about that. I have a couple hundred dollars worth of Bitspower fittings and extensions in a drawer.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Hey guys I would really appreciate some help from you guys. I've only made one water cooling build in which I have used only basic compression and some barb fittings. I have always wanted to do a hard acrylic water cooling build using the bitspower c47 and c48 fittings, however as I mentioned earlier I do not have any experience with all these different fittings. It would be really really helpful if you guys pointed out all the different fittings these people have used in their builds with hard acrylic. I live in Canada and the only big water cooling store we have here is Dazmodes when I checked the site for their bitspower fittings I was really overwhelmed and some of there fittings are really expensive so yeah I'd be really grateful if somebody could provide me links to dazmodes with the different fittings these guys use. The ones I'm really interested in are the angled ones which are useful for making the acrylic go in straight lines that are aesthetically pleasing.
> Another question I have is if it would be possible to water cool corsair vengeance ram or will I have to sell it and try to pick up some dominator memory?
> Once again guys thank you so much


What's up,

Alot of the fittings used for these type of builds are rotary fittings which comprise of rotary (single, dual, triple, even snake rotaries) and extension fittings, for example like here on PerformancePCs:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_611
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_616

There are no such things "exact fittings" that you need to use for your particular build and no one can tell you that for that matter. You have to look at your build, measure, and order more fittings than you actually need, which relatively costs way more than basic compression fittings because you're dealing with precise measurements. You may have to order longer acrylic tubing by made by E22. They use the same diameter acrylic tubing as Bitspower Crystal Link. However you need to cut and smooth out the ends otherwise you'll cut the o-rings in the fittings and cause a leak. You can watch Singularity Computers on YouTube, particularly this video as he explains it in detail:




As far as cooling Corsair Vengeance RAM, it can be done because I have done it with this Bitspower kit:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=33027

It requires you to take your RAM heat spreaders apart and install the Bitspower ones to utilize their water block as seen on my photo above.

I have a DIY video how to do it:



Hope I helped...


----------



## Sunreeper

Thanks man you helped a whole lot







and you also persuaded me to go with that bitspower CPU block


----------



## IT Diva

One thing I would suggest, is to use the C47 with its dual orings over the C48 which is a single oring.

It's only slightly longer, but the second oring is nice insurance.

On something like a mobo setup like you've pictured, the slightly greater length probably wouldn't even be noticed.

Darlene

This is a pretty tightly spaced setup, but the C47's work out OK here too.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


That's simply beautiful...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a friend wanting to water cool his RAM with EK blocks. He has G.Skill RAM. Can you guys help me find a clear, nickel and non CSQ block for these?


He can use the modules like wermad suggested

For clean non-csq he can buy a regular CSQ ram block for 2 or 4.

Then a corresponding clean csq plexi top, 2 or 4.


----------



## thestache

Only question is how do I fit two of them into a case.



Would you expect slightly less or slightly more cooling out of a single one of these compared to three 360mm raditors of the same thickness? Now we finally have them here and at the same price of a 360mm Monsta seems like my next project could be a double wide case with two of these. Unless they have any issues or dismissing returns compared to smaller radiators.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23931


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Only question is how do I fit two of them into a case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you expect slightly less or slightly more cooling out of a single one of these compared to three 360mm raditors of the same thickness? Now we finally have them here and at the same price of a 360mm Monsta seems like my next project could be a double wide case with two of these. Unless they have any issues or dismissing returns compared to smaller radiators.
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23931


The only way I see those inside the case is only if you get caselabs. Those are huge it may work well if you get a stand and put them on beside your rig. You may notice this hive making some noise if you don't mind.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Or stick a pair of them in another room (or better yet a basement if you have one) and plumb the lines through the wall/floor.


----------



## mandrix

Hey guys, where / what would be the best place to get enough .5mm TIM sheet for two EK waterblocks?
I'm moving my FC7950 water blocks to new cards soon.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Hey guys, where / what would be the best place to get enough .5mm TIM sheet for two EK waterblocks?
> I'm moving my FC7950 water blocks to new cards soon.


You mean like THESE?

You should be able to do about 20 GPUs out of one of these.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> You mean like THESE?
> 
> You should be able to do about 20 GPUs out of one of these.


Exactly! I was just looking at PPC's too.....I guess I need to figure out how much I need for two blocks....
Thanks digi.









EDIT: hey great they got the same thing at FCPU that comes with the EK blocks. Guess I'll be safe and order those.

Thanks again Digicidal


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Only question is how do I fit two of them into a case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you expect slightly less or slightly more cooling out of a single one of these compared to three 360mm raditors of the same thickness? Now we finally have them here and at the same price of a 360mm Monsta seems like my next project could be a double wide case with two of these. Unless they have any issues or dismissing returns compared to smaller radiators.
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23931


Mountain mods actually has a case panel that fits that perfectly


----------



## nicksasa

Finnaly had the time to redo my whole WC setup. Switched to a NZXT Pahntom 630, added a RX240, switched out the XSPC 750 pump/res combo for a MCP655 and a Bitspower Z-Multi 250 res









This loop is just .. terrible, I was still waiting on some adapters aswell. I was going to put the pump somewhere else but after adding the RX240 I couldn't find a suitable place for it, so now it's zip tied to the back of the case, and since I already did all of the other tubing .. oh well.


Mayhems Auora Galaxy Purple sure looks great, but when switching out the loop, I found that a lot of the pearl just got stuck in the rads ..


2 days later it was time to redo the loop again and replace the old XSPC Rasa with a EK Supremacy Nickel-Plexi. EK UV Lime Green + 2 UV leds in the cpu block makes the block stand out, I really like it.



Ignore the GTX460







Ever since my 6970 died I've been using the trusty 460, and since it's been ages since I've done any real gaming, I see no reason to buy a new card right now.

Pretty happy with the temps on my 3930K right now, with load the cores are 60°C-68°C @ 4.9Ghz 1.46V, water temp doesn't go above 30°C. Shortening the tubing and replacing the beat up XSPC Rasa seems like a really good choice I made, temps with the Rasa block were ~67-75°C.


----------



## derickwm

Hehe got fans?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe got fans?


No... so hook a brother up!


----------



## derickwm

Link :ninja:


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> No... so hook a brother up!


Yeah twin brother.  what fan is that?


----------



## derickwm

Feser Triebwerk V2 TK-123 120mm x 120mm x 55mm


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Link


Your link works but ninja fail lol


----------



## derickwm

Looks fine to me


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Looks fine to me


I hate mobile lol ifail


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Acoustical Noise: <65 dBA


Well, at least they're quieter than an airplane..









Hmmm... I'm so very tempted... but I can't for the life of me figure out what I would do with them if I bought some... I like quiet. I'll have to give it a day. It's definitely a great deal on them.


----------



## derickwm

Did you watch the video? Once you dial these things down they get quiet really quickly.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Did you watch the video? Once you dial these things down they get quiet really quickly.


Yes, I watched the video - actually, I think I had already watched it a few weeks ago (or a similar one). We have different views of quiet - I'm running GT AP-13's at 700RPM in my rig.







Still, if I can come up with something for them to go into I might have to just because. It's too tight in my pedestal to use them in my main rig - but I'm going to go through my server closet at work and see if maybe there isn't something I could justify it for.


----------



## derickwm

Hehe I like your train of thought :thumb:


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Your link works but ninja fail lol


My Bitspower adapters (30º 60º and 90º) shipped from Caseking.de, should be getting them around Wednesday.


----------



## Gleniu

5V mod for running 12 SP120's in my Corsair 540 air - I will use 3 of those widgets, one for each rad


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> The only way I see those inside the caseonly if you get caselabs. Those are huge it may work well if yoy get a stand and put them on beside your rig. You may notice this hive making some noise if you don't mind.


I have one for my GTX SLI GPU loop and I have 9 medium speed, basic, Yate Loon fans on it. Noise isn't an issue for me cause I got the 1080 external rad box and planned on having this in my ac cooled server (former linen) closet. I was very pleasantly surprised when I fired this baby up. I'm leaving the option open to have it live next to my rig rather than running the Alaska pipeline from my room to the closet.


----------



## PinzaC55

As I mentioned earlier I have recently acquired an EK FC690 waterblock and now I need to install it. Initially I thought of connecting it to the reservoir and top radiator but now I have realised I would be better off connecting the pump straight to the GPU block then to the front radiator thus ensuring that the heat gets dumped there.



So question 1) Is this good or is there a better way of doing it?
I've read the EK paperwork and it has a dire warning about using coolants containing Copper Sulphate. I'm using Mayhem's X1 UV Red which says it uses "Corrosion and Scale Inhibitors"
So question 2) Is Mayhems X1 UV red likely to cause any corrosion problem and will it stain the clear acetal parts?
Finally I have notice the top of the coolant has a bit of froth on it. Is this possibly algae and if it was, how would I know?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is a 30mm 280 rad + hwlabs GTX240 enough for two 780s and a 3930k with fans in just push config?


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is a 30mm 280 rad + hwlabs GTX240 enough for two 780s and a 3930k with fans in just push config?


I think that you are near limit


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> As I mentioned earlier I have recently acquired an EK FC690 waterblock and now I need to install it. Initially I thought of connecting it to the reservoir and top radiator but now I have realised I would be better off connecting the pump straight to the GPU block then to the front radiator thus ensuring that the heat gets dumped there.
> 
> 
> 
> So question 1) Is this good or is there a better way of doing it?
> I've read the EK paperwork and it has a dire warning about using coolants containing Copper Sulphate. I'm using Mayhem's X1 UV Red which says it uses "Corrosion and Scale Inhibitors"
> So question 2) Is Mayhems X1 UV red likely to cause any corrosion problem and will it stain the clear acetal parts?
> Finally I have notice the top of the coolant has a bit of froth on it. Is this possibly algae and if it was, how would I know?


I would do like this:-
*pump >> front radiator >> GPU >> CPU >> top radiator >> ......*
or
*pump >> front radiator >> CPU >> GPU >> top radiator >> ......*

Corrosion inhibitors supposedly prevent or reduced corrosion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is a 30mm 280 rad + hwlabs GTX240 enough for two 780s and a 3930k with fans in just push config?


Enough if running at stock clock or moderate overclock on the CPU only (~4.5GHz), I think.


----------



## PCModderMike

Flashback Friday....had just finished leak testing my Switch build March 2012.


----------



## derickwm

Lulz flashbacks!

First watercooled rig:


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lulz flashbacks!
> First watercooled rig:
> [IMG
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QtAvS91oh0g/Tte0A5oHw8I/AAAAAAAAA4w/3BbJElXhBes/w1477-h985-no/258884_240821562611617_100000513245447_993984_7195520_o.jpg
> 
> 
> [/IMG]


This was my firstie! Look at all the wire snakes in that case! LOL


----------



## mironccr345

My first loop.


----------



## PCModderMike

Ah the old 460's....still kicking aren't they?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I have one for my GTX SLI GPU loop and I have 9 medium speed, basic, Yate Loon fans on it. Noise isn't an issue for me cause I got the 1080 external rad box and planned on having this in my ac cooled server (former linen) closet. I was very pleasantly surprised when I fired this baby up. I'm leaving the option open to have it live next to my rig rather than running the Alaska pipeline from my room to the closet.


Sometimes I wondering why I sold my Yate loon. I know they are quite and have good performance.


----------



## Qu1ckset

My first loop!








SLI 580s and i7 950 in a RV01


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> My first loop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SLI 580s and i7 950 in a RV01




oh my


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ah the old 460's....still kicking aren't they?


Yeah man, still have them in my garage.


----------



## Sunreeper

My first and current loop


----------



## phillyd

Anyone know how to get non-CSQ plexi of the EK-FB Kit RE4? It's the full-cover for Asus Rampage IV Extreme. It's on the cooling configurator but I cannot find it anywhere else.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

How i popped my cherry......



Not pretty but damn it was a great loop!
Less than a foot of tube too.


----------



## wermad

I won't post my first loop....TT Big Water....nuff said....


----------



## BramSLI1

My first plunge into the wonderful world of water cooling.


----------



## Gleniu

This was my first one. I managed to have it clean thanks to OCN and good guys here helping with ideas


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How i popped my cherry......
> 
> 
> 
> Not pretty but damn it was a great loop!
> Less than a foot of tube too.


Hey I remember that...Storm Scout right?
My wife is using my old Scout...with an H100 modded into the roof.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> oh my


LOL, don't worry I do the same thing when I look back at that pick, but that's what happens when a newb gets together with a case that has Horrible cable management and decides to go watercool there computer!


----------



## grymok

Hey guys.

Been looking to upgrade, my 'first' wc loop, a XSPC rs240 kit.

Gonna run the new loop with 19/13 fittings and tube, a 360RX phobya rad and the rspc 750v2 pump.

My hardware:
Case: CM HAF932
CPU: Intel I7 930
GPU: AMD MSI 7950 tf3
MB: Rampage II Extreme
Ram: Corsair dominator TX
PSU: Corsair AX760.
Pt some Corsair sp fans on rad.

I have been looking on the following 2 setups:

First, Overclockers.co.uk with xspc and monsoon fittings:

Overclockers xspc fittings.PNG 66k .PNG file


Second, Aquatuning.de with alphacool angled fittings:

aquatuning order.PNG 29k .PNG file


Which of those 2 builds, will you choose, for best performance/look.
Planning for some Corsair fans later and a Lamptron fan/pump controller, a D5 pump, and maybe the Corsair 900d case, so i can fit my other 360 and 240 rad in







.

I'm exited to buy and put it together!







.


----------



## OverSightX

Here's my first attempt at custom after i had an H60! Only been doing this a few years myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SortOfGrim

my first non AIO loop


----------



## lowfat

We are doing first loops now? This would be mine. Many many moons ago now. O how times have changed.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/computer/amd2500/bdon030Large.jpg.html


----------



## Inglewood78




----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> We are doing first loops now? This would be mine. Many many moons ago now. O how times have changed.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/computer/amd2500/bdon030Large.jpg.html


I say thats a proper fish tank right there


----------



## kcuestag

First loop, on a Silverstone Raven RV02:



Then added the GPU's and a triple 180 rad and changed the EK DCP 4.0 for a Laing D5 with an EK top v2:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So...wood? Plexi? Delrin? or Aluminium?


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Qu1ckset

Defiantly Delrin or Aluminium!


----------



## Seredin

Probably aluminum. Though delrin is such a treat to work with, imo.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So...wood? Plexi? Delrin? or Aluminium?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Depends what are you color scheme? I think the wood/black combo could look good depending the wood/stain you use and the type of black you use. Also how do you plan to attach these corner pieces? I see holes in the plexi piece so I assume drill/tap and bolt together but I think bolts would take away the class of the wood and black.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> One thing I would suggest, is to use the C47 with its dual orings over the C48 which is a single oring.
> 
> It's only slightly longer, but the second oring is nice insurance.
> 
> On something like a mobo setup like you've pictured, the slightly greater length probably wouldn't even be noticed.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> This is a pretty tightly spaced setup, but the C47's work out OK here too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Wow!!


That's one crazy setup, Darlene!!

Yeah, for just my mobo, I like to use the C48s just because they show more acrylic in a tighter area and are more aesthetically pleasing to my eyes. I did my best to get the lengths right and made sure it didn't leak. For elsewhere in the build, I have used C47s and C68s, which are female multi-link versions of C47s.


----------



## ginger_nuts

What would be better value for money in your opinions;

BITSPOWER CPU Block Summit EF (AMD) $49

or

EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ $76

The reason I ask is becoz I am stuck in deciding. I have EK supreme Uni GPU blocks and bridge and the EK supremacy is a Universal mount.

But is it worth $27 extra?


----------



## Qu1ckset




----------



## lowfat

Is it easy to buy new Intel mounting for the Bitspower down the road? Do all retailers stock it? You could be in a situation like me w/ my Aquacomputer blocks. Have blocks you would like to use but new mounting hardware is rare and expensive.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I don't think I would be changing branded CPU's anytime soon, but we never know......


----------



## derickwm

This can help you with that decision









Full Review


----------



## ginger_nuts

Yeh looking at that before, there is no difference in performance.

So I was looking if it is worth the extra $26 to have a Universal mount and keeping all the blocks by the same brand?


----------



## wermad

Damn, just missed out on a Supremacy for ~$45 on ebay. Snooze, you loose









Pulled an all nighter breaking down my temporary loop as my 900D needs more surgery


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Yeh looking at that before, there is no difference in performance.
> 
> So I was looking if it is worth the extra $26 to have a Universal mount and keeping all the blocks by the same brand?


Yes.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> 2013/06/28 07:30 EDMONTON Item in transit


GTX780 blocks should be here Monday.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> GTX780 blocks should be here Monday.


Woot woot


----------



## sate200

my build!!! LD V8 black and white!!!


----------



## sakerfalcon

Some loop testing.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> my build!!! LD V8 black and white!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great work


----------



## Solonowarion

Some pics as I near the end of the build. Testing the Pastel Green with distilled.


----------



## Ftimster

Do you guys like the xspc razor water blocks with backplats for the titan? planing on running a triple parallel loop just for the cards with two xspc rx240 rads and two d5 pumps ek x3 250 ml rez and just waiting now on 300 dollars of bits power compression fittings what do you think should do the job right? Going with lots of fittings so I'm not left screwed I'm going to attempt many different types of layouts unfortunately all this is going to be packed in the bottom of a cosmos ii case


----------



## _REAPER_

Gentleman 3 days and a wake up.. not that I am counting but I will have updates to my build shortly and will be looking for some advice on looping. Looking forward to the constructive criticism from this Thread on my future build.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Gentleman 3 days and a wake up.. not that I am counting but I will have updates to my build shortly and will be looking for some advice on looping. Looking forward to the constructive criticism from this Thread on my future build.


Congrats! Get home safely and looking forward to your updated build.


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> my build!!! LD V8 black and white!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats man!!!!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Some pics as I near the end of the build. Testing the Pastel Green with distilled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Did you buy the tubing from PPCS? I can't find any other place that sells them but shipping to Canada is so ridiculous w/ them.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Some pics as I near the end of the build. Testing the Pastel Green with distilled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> Did you buy the tubing from PPCS? I can't find any other place that sells them but shipping to Canada is so ridiculous w/ them.
Click to expand...

Hey man I'm doing a buy with abenlog! Check out the last post here for more info and if you want to join just give him a pm and tell him I sent you








http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/220#post_20295014


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> Do you guys like the xspc razor water blocks with backplats for the titan? planing on running a triple parallel loop just for the cards with two xspc rx240 rads and two d5 pumps ek x3 250 ml rez and just waiting now on 300 dollars of bits power compression fittings what do you think should do the job right? Going with lots of fittings so I'm not left screwed I'm going to attempt many different types of layouts unfortunately all this is going to be packed in the bottom of a cosmos ii case


Here you go, a test of the Titan blocks available.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> my build!!! LD V8 black and white!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nicely done!







That is huge casing, must be expensive.


----------



## RemagCP

Anyone know if its possible to short a pump/res by placing it in a drive cage? My X2O 750 V4 will not work in my drive cage, but if I plop it down outside of my case it works fine.

Very strange.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Anyone know if its possible to short a pump/res by placing it in a drive cage? My X2O 750 V4 will not work in my drive cage, but if I plop it down outside of my case it works fine.
> 
> Very strange.


check your wires and connectors.


----------



## RemagCP

Done and done.

It seems like as long as the pump is on its fine, its just getting it to start after it turns off is the problem.
I have to shake it and knock on it with my knuckles carefully to get it to start again.


----------



## Seredin

That doesn't sound particularly good. In fact, it reminds me of when we have mechanical blockages in our pumps in my plant.

If you're confident, consider taking it apart and checking the internals for any rough edges or loose bits of metal; they could perhaps have become dislodged from within your radiators or exchange blocks during an initial flush and remained trapped in your pump housing.

Could be lots of things, really.


----------



## fakeblood

all filled up









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09846_zps559bcdb9.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09839_zps2c8ac195.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

eh, could be something lose inside the pump. The x20 750 is no known to be reliable. Try a different connector/plug on the psu. No luck then, hit up xspc rma. I'm sure they'll just send you a new one


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> all filled up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09846_zps559bcdb9.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09839_zps2c8ac195.jpg.html


This is a wow! build







Acrylic tube is catching on....might need to explore that....must resist....


----------



## bundymania




----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is a wow! build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic tube is catching on....might need to explore that....must resist....


DOOOOOOOOOOO IT


----------



## derickwm

fakeblood, need pastel mate.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> fakeblood, need pastel mate.


Considered going pastel again. However last lot of pastel turned pinky brown after a couple of weeks. Giving dye a go for now. Liking the transparency of the dye also


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> all filled up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09846_zps559bcdb9.jpg.html


Fake that looks rad. Love the coolant. Have you considered bending the acrylic for the other let on the cpu block so you dont use adapters?


----------



## SuperClocks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Acrylic tube is catching on....might need to explore that....must resist....


Yeah, I'm thinking about picking some up, too. The metal 90 degree fittings from the hardware store are just too ugly, and the 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD tubing that I have restricts waterflow just a tiny bit in the curves...


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Fake that looks rad. Love the coolant. Have you considered bending the acrylic for the other let on the cpu block so you dont use adapters?


Not until you just mentioned it. Might give a piece a go tomorrow and see how it looks


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> all filled up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09846_zps559bcdb9.jpg.html
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09839_zps2c8ac195.jpg.html


Looks amazing!! I got lots of acrylic tubing left over, I need to start practicing...


----------



## kingchris

question WERMAD, what fans you running on your monsta's and do they have good air flow.

cheers


----------



## lihoudis

here is a pic of my first attempt to water cooling







i know a little sloppy but actually work ..anyway now i am case modding and reconfigure my loop with more components


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Is it wrong for me to want to build in a 540 AIR?

I have a little chubby on for it.....must resist......


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Is it wrong for me to want to build in a 540 AIR?
> 
> I have a little chubby on for it.....must resist......


It's honestly a really nice case, and love the massive window!
CorsairGeorge said if it sells well (which I'm 90% sure it will) he will make a obsidian version with more features..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> To be honest that was one of the original concept ideas, but we had to divorce ourselves from it for a couple reasons.
> 
> 1) It would have required a ton of desktop real estate. Nobody would put that case on the floor that way, and the footprint of the case in that orientation is massive. Bigger than some laser printers.
> 2) It would have required adding a cosmetic panel to cover the bottom hard drive area, relocatable feet for the rear side panel, and a couple of other parts, all of which would have added significant cost. We'd be selling at $159-$169 instead of $139.
> 
> So if the Air 540 sells, maybe I'll make an Obsidian version of the case with that option. But I'll need a few months to see how many of you guys are buying this thing before I determine if I keep going with the cube style cases.
> 
> To be quite honest - it's very, very promising so far. Especially those reviews.


He was referring to the guys wanting to flip this case on its side like haf xb (which i hate that idea lol)


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So...wood? Plexi? Delrin? or Aluminium?


Aesthetics I prefer machined Aluminium/Delrin.

But thinking about costs without knowing anothing about your case, wouldn't thick laser cut acrylic be best to use for the fins? Delrin from my experiences with my case is pretty expensive. How expensive is it compared to aluminium?


----------



## szeged

can anyone help me out here.

Ive been wanting to clean this up for a bit, atm the tubing going from my cpu block to the res just looks and feels weird to me, the way its bent.

Ive been wanting to try some crystal link to clean it up into a straight line going from the res to cpu. since ive never used crystal link before, what kind of fittings would i need to make this possible? if anyone can help me out it would be much appreciated.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Is it wrong for me to want to build in a 540 AIR?
> 
> I have a little chubby on for it.....must resist......


Same here. I really need to get my S3 done, but it would be nice to throw sli 780s + soundcard with everything hidden in the back!!! FirstWorldProblems?

edit: maybe I should sell my S3? UGH!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> My Bitspower adapters (30º 60º and 90º) shipped from Caseking.de, should be getting them around Wednesday.


Nice Bro hey you want to play Backgammon












Day 11 just finished paint my tree rads last night. The original paint is a bit rough and i rad some slightly scratch on too so now everything is nice and even.



Today I will be looking into put all my tree Rad's one and my EK res included the mobo let's see how it goes.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lihoudis*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is a pic of my first attempt to water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i know a little sloppy but actually work ..anyway now i am case modding and reconfigure my loop with more components


nice first setup bro, In my country we used to say,
Quote:


> If you don't have a dog to hunt, you hunt with the cat. "It means you do whatever is possible for you".


----------



## soul801

what did you use to bend the tubing?


----------



## Kenjiwing

Guys is it possible to use the EK X3 250 in this layout?

I figure I could either buy a 2nd top with multi port or I could just flip the res upside down and I would have all the ports I need. I only need a single port on the bottom and ports on the top.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So...wood? Plexi? Delrin? or Aluminium?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aesthetics I prefer machined Aluminium/Delrin.
> 
> But thinking about costs without knowing anothing about your case, wouldn't thick laser cut acrylic be best to use for the fins? Delrin from my experiences with my case is pretty expensive. How expensive is it compared to aluminium?
Click to expand...

Dont ask for Delrin as its a trademark and expensive...ask for Acetal as its the base material.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Is it wrong for me to want to build in a 540 AIR?
> 
> I have a little chubby on for it.....must resist......
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. I really need to get my S3 done, but it would be nice to throw sli 780s + soundcard with everything hidden in the back!!! FirstWorldProblems?
> 
> edit: maybe I should sell my S3? UGH!
Click to expand...

I keep looking and wondering if my SR2 will fit.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> question WERMAD, what fans you running on your monsta's and do they have good air flow.
> 
> cheers


Cooler master R4s:
Quote:


> Specifications:
> 
> Model R4-L2R-20AG-R2
> 
> Dimension 120 x 120 x 25 mm
> 
> Speed (R.P.M.) 2000 R.P.M.
> 
> Air Flow (CFM) 69.69 CFM
> 
> Air pressure (mmH2O) 2.94 mmH2O
> 
> Noise Level 19 dB-A
> 
> Bearing Type Long Life Sleeve
> 
> Life Expectation 50,000 hours
> 
> Rated Voltage 12 VDC
> 
> Current (Ampere) 0.35A ± 10%
> 
> Power consumption 4.2W ± 10%
> 
> Weight 116 g
> 
> LED Color 4 Green LED
> 
> Connector 3 to 4 Pin Adapter
> 
> 3 to 4 pin Adapter 1 pcs
> 
> Screws 4 pcs
> 
> Warranty 1 year
> 
> UPC Code 884102007965


With the Monsta, I was actually running ~5v. I'm on GTX rads now, I'll be running them ~7v.


----------



## lihoudis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> nice first setup bro, In my country we used to say,




one from the inside with diy smal gpu waterblock


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> what did you use to bend the tubing?


Check out B negs acrylic bending guide. You put some fuel line inside the tube so it doesnt collapse on istself and heat up the tube with a heat gun. Bend till hearts desire.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lihoudis*
> 
> 
> 
> one from the inside with diy smal gpu waterblock


how about you get another rad? add to the loop at least 120mm dual thin rad


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Must resist.......


----------



## Sunreeper

Is buy if there was a waterblock to get rid of that ridiculous EVGA logo -_-


----------



## mbed0123

**** man I love it that the "enthusiast" of 'em all K1ngpin gets his hands on this thing months ago and it trickles it's way to us regular enthusiasts. Well if there was any sort of "field" testing it would the way to go....


----------



## lihoudis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> how about you get another rad? add to the loop at least 120mm dual thin rad


before of that i want to try a peltier module as well after the small rad but already have something in mind







you are bad influence ppl


----------



## derickwm

It'd be a beautiful board if all the red lettering was done in a dark grey.


----------



## skyn3t

This mobo is a beauty the way it is no need to change anything. love red and black grey is awful, I'm removing all my dark grey sleeve from my MDPC cables cuz some how I started to hate it. and you want grey on this beauty red/black mobo. If i had the cash to fill out all those slot I will buy it in a blink of the eye.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It'd be a beautiful board if all the red lettering was done in a dark grey.


Agreed.

I also am waiting for this beauty.


----------



## wermad

Let's see how evga redeems itself...

According to Jacob, they have a better development team. Still, I would be very weary tbh.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Nice Bro hey you want to play Backgammon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Day 11 just finished paint my tree rads last night. The original paint is a bit rough and i rad some slightly scratch on too so now everything is nice and even.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today I will be looking into put all my tree Rad's one and my EK res included the mobo let's see how it goes.


Sure, can I have some of those?


----------



## WebTourist

PC case for 30 euro












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebTourist*
> 
> PC case for 30 euro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That turned out great, Nice job!


----------



## Phobia

OMG, WebTourist.
Fabulous piece of art , sexxxxxxxxxxxxxy and you know it


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Sure, can I have some of those?


LOL all of them goes here







[Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues. I just got my tree rad in place with mobo / pump and res







I will going to take some pics and up later on, I still painting the GPU brackets and MY CSB z brackets. I may need to run down to a Autozone to get som,e paint i just ran out of my red paint


----------



## lowfat

Why do EVGA boards need to be an inch wider than other manufacturers? You can see tons of wasted space on the PCB.

That big E is just ridiculous. That is as bad as the guns/bullets on the Gigabyte G1.

The Z87 board is almost perfect minus the 90° 24-pin connector and being 'EATX'.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That turned out great, Nice job!


you just convinced me to open up the Case Mod for my re-build so here we go check the link above.


----------



## protzman

yeah looks good dude, just imagine now if you had a nice case







looks great tho!


----------



## WebTourist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> yeah looks good dude, just imagine now if you had a nice case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great tho!


I don't want other people know about my video game addiction.








CM force 500 is the best case for me.


----------



## RemagCP

Hey guys quick question.

What should my idle/load temps be for a 3770k (1.38v, 4.7GHz), X2O 750 pump, and a RS360 with a 86*F/30*C ambient?

Right now its idle is 45c on the hottest core and load is 88c!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Hey guys quick question.
> 
> What should my idle/load temps be for a 3770k (1.38v, 4.7GHz), X2O 750 pump, and a RS360 with a 86*F/30*C ambient?
> 
> Right now its idle is 45c on the hottest core and load is 88c!


With those high ambient temps that does seem about right. Maybe just a little on the high side by a degree or two, but other than that I'd say that's about normal.


----------



## Akula

A k u l a V 2

Build Log - LinusTechTips

All water-cooling components from EK









http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/203/19u5.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/515/82hz.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/n8pi.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/gfu0.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/i2uk.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/442/ucu9.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/afqc.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/4/6aln.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/ebhy.jpg/


----------



## kroks

Nice pics! What camera are you using?


----------



## Qu1ckset

I love that bench! , i wish i didn't have a cat sometimes so i could own one! lol


----------



## Cores

Very nice bench you have there.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I love that bench! , i wish i didn't have a cat sometimes so i could own one! lol


Sell the cat and get the bench


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Sell the cat and get the bench


Sell it for what? Free? Cuz that's how much cats cost.









Beautiful bench there and great photography!


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With those high ambient temps that does seem about right. Maybe just a little on the high side by a degree or two, but other than that I'd say that's about normal.


Okay thanks for clarification.

Also that is with Prime95, after a couple hours of regular gaming it only gets to about 65*c.


----------



## Sethris225

Hey, quick question; do you guys think it's better to use a Monsta with just pull or just push or a GTX push/pull? I'm talking a 420mm rad.

I was thinking the GTX probably has decently higher FPI than the Monsta; enough to justify the lesser width even without the extra fan, but I'm not sure about the later's FPI.


----------



## lowfat

What fans would you be using?


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What fans would you be using?


Probably these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10215/fan-659/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PK-3_140mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_Fan_-_1700_RPM_-_27_dBA.html
Or maybe NF-A14 PWMs.

Unless someone can find/recommend a better alternative. There isn't exactly a multitude of good 140mm fans.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Probably these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10215/fan-659/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PK-3_140mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_Fan_-_1700_RPM_-_27_dBA.html
> Or maybe NF-A14 PWMs.
> 
> Unless someone can find/recommend a better alternative. There isn't exactly a multitude of good 140mm fans.


1700 rpm on a 140mm fan just isn't enough for a GTX IMO. Either go w/ an SR1 or go w/ a UT60.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Sell it for what? Free? Cuz that's how much cats cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful bench there and great photography!


So no bench for you than


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 1700 rpm on a 140mm fan just isn't enough for a GTX IMO. Either go w/ an SR1 or go w/ a UT60.


I think there literally aren't any 140mms faster than that with regular 25mm thickness. So I don't see how you could even use a GTX or a Monsta without using like Deltas or Silverstone FHP141s if 90CFM push/pull won't cut it (assuming Noiseblocker is telling the truth, or at least near it).

*shrug*

BTW, I am taking your advice into account though, of course.


----------



## phillyd

I redid my loop. The layout was bad, the pump was poorly placed, the res was upside down so it bubbled, and I added a t-line with a ball valve. Will post good pictures tomorrow (probably).


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I redid my loop. The layout was bad, the pump was poorly placed, the res was upside down so it bubbled, and I added a t-line with a ball valve. Will post good pictures tomorrow (probably).


Pics pics pics we want pics







.

I'm just finishing my loop order I msy need some new fitting with different angles. I think is fine right now. One thing is scratch my head is I got a Gtx 780 hydros and I just bought creative sound blaster z I don't know if I put my sound card above my 1st Gpu or if I set the sound card between my 780's. Any input.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Pics pics pics we want pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'm just finishing my loop order I msy need some new fitting with different angles. I think is fine right now. One thing is scratch my head is I got a Gtx 780 hydros and I just bought creative sound blaster z I don't know if I put my sound card above my 1st Gpu or if I set the sound card between my 780's. Any input.


Old school you always put the sound card at least 1 to 2 slots below the graphics card.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Old school you always put the sound card at least 1 to 2 slots below the graphics card.


Old school won't work with my mobo. It must be on top or between. I jut set it between on top look awful. And I made a back plate for it too just to hide the solders behind the pcb it does looks way better now.


----------



## szeged

for all of you doing acrylic tubing, what fittings are usable with the e22/primo 10mm ID 12mm OD acrylic?

can you use the bitspower 3/8 x 1/2 ones? or do they have to be specific fittings?

any info/links appreciated.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> for all of you doing acrylic tubing, what fittings are usable with the e22/primo 10mm ID 12mm OD acrylic?
> 
> can you use the bitspower 3/8 x 1/2 ones? or do they have to be specific fittings?
> 
> any info/links appreciated.


Bitspower C47's or less preferably C48's. The fitting is one size - for 12mm OD hard tube. The difference between the C48's and 47's is that the 47's are deeper and have two o-rings instead of one, making them far more sturdy.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> for all of you doing acrylic tubing, what fittings are usable with the e22/primo 10mm ID 12mm OD acrylic?
> 
> can you use the bitspower 3/8 x 1/2 ones? or do they have to be specific fittings?
> 
> any info/links appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower C47's or less preferably C48's. The fitting is one size - for 12mm OD hard tube. The difference between the C48's and 47's is that the 48's are deeper and have two o-rings instead of one, making them far more sturdy.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html
Click to expand...

I think you meant the 47s are deeper and have two o-rings not the 48s. The 48s are less sturdy than the 47s


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Bitspower C47's or less preferably C48's. The fitting is one size - for 12mm OD hard tube. The difference between the C48's and 47's is that the 48's are deeper and have two o-rings instead of one, making them far more sturdy.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html


thanks









gonna try this new acrylic tubing everyones doing, gonna see if it looks better in my set up or if i should stick with traditional tubing, hopefully i can get some pics up soon.


----------



## sakerfalcon

So far I've been using some Chinese push fittings for 12mm copper pipe and these fittings are holding up well. I'm now more concerned about corrosion but the rep said it should be fine for water use.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> So far I've been using some Chinese push fittings for 12mm copper pipe and these fittings are holding up well. I'm now more concerned about corrosion but the rep said it should be fine for water use.


Pics


----------



## joejoe69

I prefer using C48s in tight areas like between the CPU, VRM, RAM, and chipset area and C47s elsewhere. Only because in tight quarters like the mobo, there is barely, if not, no movement or play at all if you get the lengths right. I also like to see more acrylic between the angles even though C47s and C48s are only a few mm apart in size.


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> my build!!! LD V8 black and white!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love the LD V8. It's everything you need for a great setup and looks great imo. But SO expensive







Beautiful build btw








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Some pics as I near the end of the build. Testing the Pastel Green with distilled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Acrylic tubing







It's the new copper/inox


----------



## Frankzro

is Using two different sized rads like a Double 120mm Rad and a Single 120 mm Rad a Good Idea? basically have it go through the single then to the double and loop back to the reservoir Gonna watercool two 6990s. I know this is weird , but I wanna know if its practical. Thanks!


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Pics


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frankzro*
> 
> is Using two different sized rads like a Double 120mm Rad and a Single 120 mm Rad a Good Idea? basically have it go through the single then to the double and loop back to the reservoir Gonna watercool two 6990s. I know this is weird , but I wanna know if its practical. Thanks!


Hey man. You can literally do whatever you want. Generally a double 120 we call a 240 etc. Like I have a 240 > 360 > cpu > gpu.

Are you cooling cpu with another loop? Air?

Not weird at all. Usually cases are built in a way where you need to mix and match rad sizes to accommodate space unless you are building in a large case.

Good luck.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*


Those look good. Nice and short. While still looking like theyre being sufficient enough. My phobya push fittings are a little long I find. Maybe your just look short because they are 12mm.


----------



## sakerfalcon

They are 26mm long with thread, 20mm long without thread, 19.5mm circular diameter, 23mm widest at the hex nut.

The best part is they cost about $2 a piece.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> They are 26mm long with thread, 20mm long without thread, 19.5mm circular diameter, 23mm widest at the hex nut.
> 
> The best part is they cost about $2 a piece.


Do they ship worlwide? Or do you have a link?


----------



## sakerfalcon

They do ship worldwide, but they only accept payment by wire (international bank transfer to a Chinese bank). It's not an actual storefront.

http://www.air-pneumatic-fittings.com/Nickel%20Plated%20Brass%20Air%20Fitting%20with%20BSPP%20Thread%20(O-Ring)/PMPC-G.html

Your price per fitting will vary significantly depending on your order quantity and location. They ship via DHL Worldwide Express or Fedex Express International, which is not cheap.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> They do ship worldwide, but they only accept payment by wire (international bank transfer to a Chinese bank). It's not an actual storefront.
> 
> http://www.air-pneumatic-fittings.com/Nickel%20Plated%20Brass%20Air%20Fitting%20with%20BSPP%20Thread%20(O-Ring)/PMPC-G.html
> 
> Your price per fitting will vary significantly depending on your order quantity and location. They ship via DHL Worldwide Express or Fedex Express International, which is not cheap.


I just had sent email to them and i got a replay very fast and they only can sell 100 units only not even a small quantity for samples. I had send them another email to see if they can give me a break on 20 units hope they can say yes and i will get it in a blink of the eye.

by they way I have been running WC for long time but one think i never did is change the way i run it like every buddy else.

pump/res >> rx360 >>cpu >> rx240 >> gpu >> gpu >> rx240 circle again.
I was thinking in running this way here, I know for a couples of hours water will have the same temp but question is. how bad or good having this order here

pump/res >> >> gpu >> gpu >> rx360 >>cpu >> rx240 >> rx240 circle again.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I just had sent email to them and i got a replay very fast and they only can sell 100 units only not even a small quantity for samples. I had send them another email to see if they can give me a break on 20 units hope they can say yes and i will get it in a blink of the eye.
> 
> by they way I have been running WC for long time but one think i never did is change the way i run it like every buddy else.
> 
> pump/res >> rx360 >>cpu >> rx240 >> gpu >> gpu >> rx240 circle again.
> I was thinking in running this way here, I know for a couples of hours water will have the same temp but question is. how bad or good having this order here
> 
> pump/res >> >> gpu >> gpu >> rx360 >>cpu >> rx240 >> rx240 circle again.


After a "couple of hours"? You must have a very slow pump. Your coolant temperature should actually stabilize after about 20 minutes or so. With that being said, you will get virtually no change in temperatures when you change the order of your components in the loop.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> After a "couple of hours"? You must have a very slow pump. Your coolant temperature should actually stabilize after about 20 minutes or so. With that being said, you will get virtually no change in temperatures when you change the order of your components in the loop.


Let's fix it. I was going to say minutes some how I end up typ0 "hours" so.I don't have a slow pump, I had used MCP655 before and now I have a dual MCP35X2







. I just want to make this loop more clean look instead having some tubing crossing my hardware. if you click on my work log right below my sig rig you will see all my parts and will know how my loop order will be. some more infor and pics coming up. thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Let's fix it. I was going to say minutes some how I end up typ0 "hours" so.I don't have a slow pump, I had used MCP655 before and now I have a dual MCP35X2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I just want to make this loop more clean look instead having some tubing crossing my hardware. if you click on my work log right below my sig rig you will see all my parts and will know how my loop order will be. some more infor and pics coming up. thanks


Just go with the cleanest routing of your tubing. Component order will make virtually no difference in your temperatures.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just go with the cleanest routing of your tubing. Component order will make virtually no difference in your temperatures.


I'm doing it right now, I need to order another 90 angle rotary because the new routing toke what i had here and my spares parts. I may run to MC close to me tomorrow and i will finish the tubing. Thank you.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quick lil update...The CPU loop is done inside the case. I think I'm FINALLY happy with it LOL
WARNING, PUT ON YOUR SUNGLASSES OR WELDING HELMET IF YOU ARE SENSITIVE TO RED RIGS!


----------



## ACMH-K

This is my first time going under water, so please take it easy on me. I need suggestions, comments, don't do that, do this, kind of stuff please.

Some quick questions before I get started with what I have planned already
1.) Is it ok to have the *IN* for the reservoir at the top instead of having it w/ the *out* on the bottom. (the reservoir I have has 3 ports on one side and 1 on the other. It'd be nice to have 3 up top so I can use one of them as a fill port)








2.) Compatibility with the parts?
XSPC RAYSTORM WATERBLOCK
BP 250 INLINE RESERVOIR
XSPC EX420 Triple 140mm Low Profile Split Fin Radiator
Swiftech MCP655-B 12v Water Pump w/ G1/4 Thread Ports

I've prepared a diagram of what I have planned for my loop:


For the Red area in the diagram I left it blank because drawing it would be more difficult for me than just explaining.

Coming out of the bottom of the reservoir to the pump's *in* I have these parts (in order) planned:

Compression
Tubing
Compression
60° Elbow
Y splitter
Coupler
Pump

Off the other part of the Y splitter I have this:
Coupler
Shut-off Valve
Stopper


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Quick lil update...The CPU loop is done inside the case. I think I'm FINALLY happy with it LOL
> WARNING, PUT ON YOUR SUNGLASSES OR WELDING HELMET IF YOU ARE SENSITIVE TO RED RIGS!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










WOW!!








EPIC!
Upcoming MOTM, When it's done


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Quick lil update...The CPU loop is done inside the case. I think I'm FINALLY happy with it LOL
> WARNING, PUT ON YOUR SUNGLASSES OR WELDING HELMET IF YOU ARE SENSITIVE TO RED RIGS!


WHAT FITTINGS ARE YOU USING TO PUT IN THAT HARD ACRYLIC TUBING. IS THE TUBING E22?


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> WHAT FITTINGS ARE YOU USING TO PUT IN THAT HARD ACRYLIC TUBING. IS THE TUBING E22?


That's actually PrimoChill LRT tubing, not acrylic. The fittings are Phobya rotary double 45s. I like them because they give you a "softer" 90 degree overall angle amd the fittings are Monsoon (Mod my toys) carbon fiber compression fittings.
My next build will use Acrylic thanks to B Negative always inspiring me to take the next leap


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Guys is it possible to use the EK X3 250 in this layout?
> 
> I figure I could either buy a 2nd top with multi port or I could just flip the res upside down and I would have all the ports I need. I only need a single port on the bottom and ports on the top.


Any ideas guys?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> This is my first time going under water, so please take it easy on me. I need suggestions, comments, don't do that, do this, kind of stuff please.
> 
> Some quick questions before I get started with what I have planned already
> 1.) Is it ok to have the *IN* for the reservoir at the top instead of having it w/ the *out* on the bottom. (the reservoir I have has 3 ports on one side and 1 on the other. It'd be nice to have 3 up top so I can use one of them as a fill port)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.) Compatibility with the parts?
> XSPC RAYSTORM WATERBLOCK
> BP 250 INLINE RESERVOIR
> XSPC EX420 Triple 140mm Low Profile Split Fin Radiator
> Swiftech MCP655-B 12v Water Pump w/ G1/4 Thread Ports
> 
> I've prepared a diagram of what I have planned for my loop:
> 
> 
> For the Red area in the diagram I left it blank because drawing it would be more difficult for me than just explaining.
> 
> Coming out of the bottom of the reservoir to the pump's *in* I have these parts (in order) planned:
> 
> Compression
> Tubing
> Compression
> 60° Elbow
> Y splitter
> Coupler
> Pump
> 
> Off the other part of the Y splitter I have this:
> Coupler
> Shut-off Valve
> Stopper


You appear to have everything routed pretty well. The only issue I see is that you may have some difficulty with filling and bleeding it because of the way the radiator dumps right into the reservoir. I really don't know if this will be an issue though because I've never tried it that way myself. Hopefully someone else that has tried this type of routing before can be of more assistance.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> WHAT FITTINGS ARE YOU USING TO PUT IN THAT HARD ACRYLIC TUBING. IS THE TUBING E22?
> 
> 
> 
> That's actually PrimoChill LRT tubing, not acrylic. The fittings are Phobya rotary double 45s. I like them because they give you a "softer" 90 degree overall angle amd the fittings are Monsoon (Mod my toys) carbon fiber compression fittings.
> My next build will use Acrylic thanks to B Negative always inspiring me to take the next leap
Click to expand...

Whoa that looks nice I thought it was hard acrylic tubing from the pictures nice job though the compression fittings look awesome


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Guys is it possible to use the EK X3 250 in this layout?
> 
> I figure I could either buy a 2nd top with multi port or I could just flip the res upside down and I would have all the ports I need. I only need a single port on the bottom and ports on the top.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Any ideas guys?


You can, just get the multiport top and internal tube (for no waterfall spray):

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=g57c585s1884

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

EDIT: fixed link :/


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Whoa that looks nice I thought it was hard acrylic tubing from the pictures nice job though the compression fittings look awesome


Thank you very much. It's always nice to hear that all the time effort and $$$$$ you put into a rig is appreciated.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Thank you very much. It's always nice to hear that all the time effort and $$$$$ you put into a rig is appreciated.


wow thats not hard acrylic tubing you put in your rig?

very very nicely done, love how you reversed the red and black theme, see lots of people do black with red accents, love the red with black accents.

bravo:thumbsups im gonna be redoing my rig to red in a few days when everything gets here, just need newegg to hurry and ship


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17773/ex-res-463/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Tube_-_250_EK-RES_X3_-_TUBE_250_204mm.html?tl=g57c585s1884


you do know this is the actual res body dont you? and the (3) acrylic tubes they refer to using for 'outlet ports' with the replacement top, have to be purchased separately? what you have listed would amount to only a top and res body tube? if this isnt what you wanted to convey, please be a little clearer. do you mean to purchase 2 tops and the body? and then not get the anti-cyclone and foam and stop fittings? and still need to purchase the small tube to keep the inlet below the water level in the res so it doesnt just fall into the res causing bubbles?
i would glady welcome any info showing im misinformed.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you do know this is the actual res body dont you? and the (3) acrylic tubes they refer to using for 'outlet ports' with the replacement top, have to be purchased separately? what you have listed would amount to only a top and res body tube? if this isnt what you wanted to convey, please be a little clearer. do you mean to purchase 2 tops and the body? and then not get the anti-cyclone and foam and stop fittings? and still need to purchase the small tube to keep the inlet below the water level in the res so it doesnt just fall into the res causing bubbles?
> i would glady welcome any info showing im misinformed.


Sorry, I pasted the wrong link, it's this, which comes in various sizes:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312


----------



## phillyd

Took some pics using my sisters Canon Rebel XS and I could not get it to focus anywhere but the far left center. Most pics came out fine but none of my far shots of the PC did. Apologies for the first blurry pic.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Took some pics using my sisters Canon Rebel XS and I could not get it to focus anywhere but the far left center. Most pics came out fine but none of my far shots of the PC did. Apologies for the first blurry pic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks really clean! I love that new Vengeance ram too.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Took some pics using my sisters Canon Rebel XS and I could not get it to focus anywhere but the far left center. Most pics came out fine but none of my far shots of the PC did. Apologies for the first blurry pic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice clean build phillyd







nice you see you got your rig up and running. I just got stuck because one missing 90 degree rotary fitting. gonna start doing some sleeve cuz i can't finish the tubing. I may need to order some new stuff.


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, couldnt find the thread I needed for this, but I thought I would ask here, since this is the best place to get the answer I'm looking for.

I'm planning to attempt to replace the tubing on my H100. Does anyone know of or could recomend a good coolant liquid when refilling the unit? I'm taking a guess that the stock coolant would not be sufficient to refill with, since there wont be enough to completely fill the block and radiator.

I will not need anything colored, as the tubing I'm using will be solid black. (Found some stuff that matches the look of the H100i model tubing.)


----------



## snef

Hi

still work in progress but this is my new build project with Purple and White theme

Snef's Purple Chimera

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/purple Chimera/IMG_0047_zps13497c04.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/purple Chimera/IMG_0061_zps2e565eaf.jpg.html


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> and still need to purchase the small tube to keep the inlet below the water level in the res so it doesnt just fall into the res causing bubbles?


I know you guys are talking about something different here, but as long as I have the Aqua pipe leading into the res under my fluid level, am I ok with having my inlet come in through the top on the res?

Revised pic below with a link to the tube that was touched on in the quote above:
(Bitspower Aqua Pipe)



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You appear to have everything routed pretty well. The only issue I see is that you may have some difficulty with filling and bleeding it because of the way the radiator dumps right into the reservoir. I really don't know if this will be an issue though because I've never tried it that way myself. Hopefully someone else that has tried this type of routing before can be of more assistance.


I understand where you're coming from:
When filling the loop it might get a little crammed what with the inlet coming into the res and all.
But can't I just use an extra compression fitting with a piece of (let's say 12 inch) tubing attached to it, funnel and fill it that way?
Once I have bled the system, take the compression fitting out and replace it with the already planned stopper on top (colored in orange)


----------



## pc-illiterate

ACMH-K, it should work fine.


----------



## ACMH-K

Thank you








Any red flags on where and how I have my drain port planned?
I figured putting a plug on the open end of the valve would be a good secondary precaution.


----------



## kcuestag

Quick question, if I were to use 2 of these Alphacool 45º Adapter combined with 2 of these Alphacool Male adapters, would I be able to make a "straight" line?

Not sure if I explain my self, here's how my rig looks:



Basically I want to separate the tubing from the rad to reservoir so that I have a bit of space between GPU's and the tubing because right now that piece of tubing is a bit forced, so I want to separate it a bit and make it go up again ,would 2 of those 45º help?

Not sure which angles I'd need to make it end straight.

Edit:

I want to do something like this:


----------



## ACMH-K

If you used 2x 90°'s it would jump it away from the GPU more drastically, or even 2x 60°'s for that matter. How close is the tubing to the GPU or is it actually pressing up against it with some force?
Are you thinking about putting the 45°'s right off the rad or in the middle somewhere closer to the GPU?

EDIT:
Any ° of angled fittings will work, (as long as they are the same °) it would definitely offset the straight line and be parallel to what's there already, just over a couple inches.
You would probably need to come off the rad enough initially to get yourself past the fan, if you aren't planning on putting the fittings closer to GPU.


----------



## pc-illiterate

2 double rotatory 90*s would work. 2x 60*s wont work. simple math. you need the fittings to equal 180*. 3x 60*s would be funny looking, a sideways stretched N.
cant you get a male AND female fitting? that is unless you already have 4 barbs and dont want to use just 2 (plus the male/male adapter in either set-ups).


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 2 double rotatory 90*s would work. 2x 60*s wont work. simple math. you need the fittings to equal 180*. 3x 60*s would be funny looking, a sideways stretched N.
> cant you get a male AND female fitting? that is unless you already have 4 barbs and dont want to use just 2 (plus the male/male adapter in either set-ups).


If what you're saying is actually correct then 2x 45° wouldn't work either, he isn't asking to do this


----------



## ACMH-K

From what I gather, kcuestag correct me if I'm wrong, but you're looking to do something like this:


Or this:


Whatever you have the first angle as, the second angle needs to be the same, to make the line parallel but not occupying the same space.
simple math no....
simple geometry... yes


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question, if I were to use 2 of these Alphacool 45º Adapter combined with 2 of these Alphacool Male adapters, would I be able to make a "straight" line?
> 
> Not sure if I explain my self, here's how my rig looks:
> 
> 
> 
> Basically I want to separate the tubing from the rad to reservoir so that I have a bit of space between GPU's and the tubing because right now that piece of tubing is a bit forced, so I want to separate it a bit and make it go up again ,would 2 of those 45º help?
> 
> Not sure which angles I'd need to make it end straight.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I want to do something like this:


Yup you can do that.


----------



## kcuestag

Thank you guys, *ACMH-K* got it right, I want to do that with angled fittings, so then two 45º would work?

To answer the previous post you asked me, the tubing is actually forced into the GPU cables, that's how tight it is.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thank you guys, *ACMH-K* got it right, I want to do that with angled fittings, so then two 45º would work?
> 
> To answer the previous post you asked me, the tubing is actually forced into the GPU cables, that's how tight it is.


Of topic but are you watching the soccer game?


----------



## akiles333

Would this pump/res be enough for 2x 240 rads and 1x 120 rad?http://www.aquatuning.no/product_info.php/info/p860_Alphacool-Eheim-600-Station-II-230V.html


----------



## lordhinton

seams the place for it









ok.. is 2 120mm radiators the same as 1 240mm radiator?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Of topic but are you watching the soccer game?


Hell yeah, go Spain!


----------



## BramSLI1

I understand where you're coming from:
When filling the loop it might get a little crammed what with the inlet coming into the res and all.
But can't I just use an extra compression fitting with a piece of (let's say 12 inch) tubing attached to it, funnel and fill it that way?
Once I have bled the system, take the compression fitting out and replace it with the already planned stopper on top (colored in orange)[/quote]

Yes, you can do that. I was just saying that it's a bit cramped in there and therefore it might be difficult to get in there and fill it.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Looks really clean! I love that new Vengeance ram too.[/quote]
Thanks! I love the RAM too. It overclocks great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Nice clean build phillyd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice you see you got your rig up and running. I just got stuck because one missing 90 degree rotary fitting. gonna start doing some sleeve cuz i can't finish the tubing. I may need to order some new stuff.


Thanks! I can't wait to see your work!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hell yeah, go Spain!


I fell sorry for spain lol Brasil







2 x 0 Spain


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thank you guys, *ACMH-K* got it right, I want to do that with angled fittings, so then two 45º would work?
> 
> To answer the previous post you asked me, the tubing is actually forced into the GPU cables, that's how tight it is.


2 of any same degree angled fittings would work. It just depends on how far away from the gpu you need to be.

How much is the Tubing bowed out, millimeters?


If you only use a 45° offset, the tubing might still be a little bowed and pressing or sitting right next to the gpu still. Like I said it depends on how much space you need to have that straight line of tubing.

Edit: The higher the degree of your offset, 45°, 60°, or 90° the more allowed space you will have. you will also have to factor in how long or large the elbow is.
45° would look the cleanest IMO, but if it's to short you could always use an extender or a long coupler in between each of the 45° elbows to get you those extra 10mm away from the gpu.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Looks really clean! I love that new Vengeance ram too.


Thanks! I love the RAM too. It overclocks great.
Thanks! I can't wait to see your work![/quote]

I'm working in my sleeve now I already got done both 6/8 pin Gpu wires


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you can do that. I was just saying that it's a bit cramped in there and therefore it might be difficult to get in there and fill it.


I guess that's why some people mod a fill port to the top of their case.









Edit: Top plastic bezel won't allow for that on the Strike X-ST, at least for a clean look.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> If what you're saying is actually correct then 2x 45° wouldn't work either, he isn't asking to do this


i didnt say 2x 45*s. i said 2x 90*s to make then mirror your next picture.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> From what I gather, kcuestag correct me if I'm wrong, but you're looking to do something like this:
> 
> 
> Or this:
> 
> 
> Whatever you have the first angle as, the second angle needs to be the same, to make the line parallel but not occupying the same space.
> simple math no....
> simple geometry... yes


from his picture, he showed a double rotary 90*. yes 2x 45*s will do that. i assumed he meant using 2x 90*s not 2x 45*s to 'jog' around his cables. i didnt realize he wanted to make a double rotary 90* using 2x 45*s. that is why i said what im saying below.
try making a 'line' using 2x 60* fittings or even just draw it. it wont happen. you would need another 60* angle in there to finish the 180*. simple trig to equal 180* if you want to break down math classes. it could also be algebra because you know 2 of 3 values and a sum. geometry could be considered since you want a line from point a to point b though most users deal with shapes and volumes. no i wont draw you a pretty crayon picture








2 years each of algebra, trigonometry and geometry ended 25 years ago. being a machinist you need to know and remember these things. i wonder how much i forget til i need to remember...


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question, if I were to use 2 of these Alphacool 45º Adapter combined with 2 of these Alphacool Male adapters, would I be able to make a "straight" line?
> 
> Not sure if I explain my self, here's how my rig looks:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically I want to separate the tubing from the rad to reservoir so that I have a bit of space between GPU's and the tubing because right now that piece of tubing is a bit forced, so I want to separate it a bit and make it go up again ,would 2 of those 45º help?
> 
> Not sure which angles I'd need to make it end straight.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I want to do something like this:


If it were me, I'd stick to the existing lines already created visually by your chassis and components. It's clean because it flows without distracting the eye by introducing another angular line. I did a quick scribble in MS paint to show you what i mean.

The red being your tubing and the white being Bitspower Silver 90 degree rotary fittings like these( for the Rad block): http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_625&products_id=37988 and these(for the corners): http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_624&products_id=25813.

It's just an idea. You go with what feels right to you. That's the beauty of building it yourself!


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i didnt say 2x 45*s. i said 2x 90*s to make then mirror your next picture.
> from his picture, he showed a double rotary 90*. yes 2x 45*s will do that. i assumed he meant using 2x 90*s not 2x 45*s to 'jog' around his cables. i didnt realize he wanted to make a double rotary 90* using 2x 45*s. that is why i said what im saying below.
> try making a 'line' using 2x 60* fittings or even just draw it. it wont happen. you would need another 60* angle in there to finish the 180*. simple trig to equal 180* if you want to break down math classes. it could also be algebra because you know 2 of 3 values and a sum. geometry could be considered since you want a line from point a to point b though most users deal with shapes and volumes. no i wont draw you a pretty crayon picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 years each of algebra, trigonometry and geometry ended 25 years ago. being a machinist you need to know and remember these things. i wonder how much i forget til i need to remember...


I am done:


----------



## Red1776

Rats!
I think I overlapped my A10-6800K


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question, if I were to use 2 of these Alphacool 45º Adapter combined with 2 of these Alphacool Male adapters, would I be able to make a "straight" line?
> 
> Not sure if I explain my self, here's how my rig looks:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically I want to separate the tubing from the rad to reservoir so that I have a bit of space between GPU's and the tubing because right now that piece of tubing is a bit forced, so I want to separate it a bit and make it go up again ,would 2 of those 45º help?
> 
> Not sure which angles I'd need to make it end straight.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I want to do something like this:


this is 2x45°
is the same as your picture .....this is rotated at 90 ° (2x45 °)

 
model BP-MSR3D


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> I am done:


omg, dont you understand what i typed twice? i guess i HAVE to draw you a pretty crayon picture
this is what i THOUGHT he wanted to do

#1


not this
#2


yes 2x 60* will do #2 but it sure as hell wont do #1. being from pennsylvania i thought you could comprehend what you read. i thought i explained it well enough the first 2 times. maybe you can understand the third try since it has a of couple pictures. would you like a third picture of 3x 60* angles doing the same thing as 2x 90* double rotary fittings?

i really dont want to be or try to be an ass but come on man, this is the third time i typed the same thing.


----------



## kcuestag

Come on guys, no need to start a discussion for all this.









Thanks everyone for the help.


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> omg, dont you understand what i typed twice? i guess i HAVE to draw you a pretty crayon picture
> this is what i THOUGHT he wanted to do
> 
> #1
> 
> 
> not this
> #2
> 
> 
> yes 2x 60* will do #2 but it sure as hell wont do #1. being from pennsylvania i thought you could comprehend what you read. i thought i explained it well enough the first 2 times. maybe you can understand the third try since it has a of couple pictures. would you like a third picture of 3x 60* angles doing the same thing as 2x 90* double rotary fittings?
> 
> i really dont want to be or try to be an ass but come on man, this is the third time i typed the same thing.











Missunderstanding methinks. I read your 1st and 2nd post over again like 3 times each.
I actually do comprehend better with pictures, (which is probably why I feel the need to draw pretty crayon pictures, it's hard to put on shoes that you can't feel and are invisible) and when I read, it doesn't matter what the topic is about, I have to read it multiple times to understand the point and actually comprehend what is written. So you are correct it is my fault for lacking the capability of being able to comprehend something the first time around.

Same goes with my writing, which is why if you look at a lot of my posts, the majority of them have been edited, not for the lack of understanding people, like I have with you just now, but because I ill word things and leave a lot of stuff out in my originals.
This post for instance has taken me like 15 minutes to put together, previewed 5 times but not yet edited.









Anyways, sounds like to me we are both right with how to "jog" the tubing out of the way of the gpu.


----------



## Ftimster

question I'm putting two rx 240 radiators in the bottom of my cosmos 2 with both rads facing each other and two Delta 38mm fans for spacing between the two radiators will I have space for 2 90 degree compression fittings at the top also planning on using a sli flow bridge to connect the rads at the bottom any thoughts help would be appreciated as I've ordered everything I need except for the fittings plan on going with bitspower compression fittings I think I'm somewhere close to $200 now in fittings just to be sure I don't miss anything. anyone visualize what I'm talking about?? Thanks


----------



## kcuestag

*ACMH-K*, here's a picture of how "forced" the tubing is right now:



You think a double 45º would be enough?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Missunderstanding methinks. I read your 1st and 2nd post over again like 3 times each.
> I actually do comprehend better with pictures, (which is probably why I feel the need to draw pretty crayon pictures, it's hard to put on shoes that you can't feel and are invisible) and when I read, it doesn't matter what the topic is about, I have to read it multiple times to understand the point and actually comprehend what is written. So you are correct it is my fault for lacking the capability of being able to comprehend something the first time around.
> 
> Same goes with my writing, which is why if you look at a lot of my posts, the majority of them have been edited, not for the lack of understanding people, like I have with you just now, but because I ill word things and leave a lot of stuff out in my originals.
> This post for instance has taken me like 15 minutes to put together, previewed 5 times but not yet edited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, sounds like to me we are both right with how to "jog" the tubing out of the way of the gpu.


all good. i was just getting irritated explaining myself, im sure you do also. peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> *ACMH-K*, here's a picture of how "forced" the tubing is right now:
> 
> 
> 
> You think a double 45º would be enough?


how about just a 45* off the rad and loop it around the cables as you go up?
do you want a picture too? lol


----------



## kcuestag

I want the tubing route to be as "natural" as possible without any forcing, that's why the two fittings with same angles.









Wondering if two 45º would be enough to separate the tubing from the GPU's.


----------



## ACMH-K

It looks like the inlet for the rad isn't even lined up with the outlet (I'm guessing) to your reservoir.
Yea you could do 45° methinks, if it turns out that isn't enough then throw a longer coupler in the middle of the 2 elbows later. I've seen 5mm, and 10mm G1/4 Male-Male connectors.

And if it is still to short, do your 2x 45°'s and stick these two in the middle Male to Male 5mm attached to this Bitspower Male to Female Extender

You'll have to figure out Brand, Color, and size preference of course, 40mm would probably be more than enough seeing as you would be adding a 5 or 10mm already with the M-M extender on top of what the 2x45° would give you already, I can't tell without any real mesurements of how far you need to come out, can you stick a ruler in there with the metric side showing.


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> all good. i was just getting irritated explaining myself, im sure you do also. peace


I do get irritated from time to time, more with myself because I feel the need to be right. My composure was growing thin, I had an excel document all worked up showing 6x 60° angles end to end creating a full 360° oblong circle








I'm glad I finally understood you before I embedded it.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> *ACMH-K*, here's a picture of how "forced" the tubing is right now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You think a double 45º would be enough?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I want the tubing route to be as *"natural"* as possible without any forcing, that's why the two fittings with same angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wondering if two 45º would be enough to separate the tubing from the GPU's.


I you put two 45º it will be one open 90º even if you you one 45º there you will force the tubing, the best way to have it done you just did there with
22º 1/2 angle there. just follow the angle fitting and you got a perfect sloop GPU to Rad. that's is *"natural"*


----------



## MrYakuZa

On topic!
I update the thread to put my project here TJ11 2.0 finished!


----------



## pc-illiterate

he isnt after gpu to rad. he wants to get the res rad tube off the gpu wires. im sure a 45* would work but he would also need an extender to get up to the top of the fan.


----------



## ACMH-K

Personally I would go with 2 of these because you can always add this in the middle if it isn't long enough

It's easier than having to return this if it isn't long enough or trying to mod it, which might not even be possible.

In conclusion my suggestion would be to go with 2 separate 45°'s at first, and if you need more room, get a Male-Female extender, (keeping brand, color, metal all in mind for same themed look)








Can you mod a rotary fittings to make it longer guys?


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> *ACMH-K*


After seeing this picture it almost looks like he doesn't have to worry about clearing the fan, just position the elbows so that they angle towards the side of the case and then straight up on the second one.


----------



## Ftimster

Anyone??


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> question I'm putting two rx 240 radiators in the bottom of my cosmos 2 with both rads facing each other and two Delta 38mm fans for spacing between the two radiators will I have space for 2 90 degree compression fittings at the top also planning on using a sli flow bridge to connect the rads at the bottom any thoughts help would be appreciated as I've ordered everything I need except for the fittings plan on going with bitspower compression fittings I think I'm somewhere close to $200 now in fittings just to be sure I don't miss anything. anyone visualize what I'm talking about?? Thanks


anyone?????


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> anyone?????


sandwiched/stacked rads perform poorly. this info is available all over the net. stacked fans, perform the same as 1 according to martin, and might perform worse.
put rads external or get a better case if you dont have the room.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> anyone?????










Let me wrap my head around the visual on this and the measurements and get back to you.......of course 20 other people will have responded by then and my response will be a moot point by then...LOL


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> question I'm putting two rx 240 radiators in the bottom of my cosmos 2 with both rads facing each other and two Delta 38mm fans for spacing between the two radiators will I have space for 2 90 degree compression fittings at the top also planning on using a sli flow bridge to connect the rads at the bottom any thoughts help would be appreciated as I've ordered everything I need except for the fittings plan on going with bitspower compression fittings I think I'm somewhere close to $200 now in fittings just to be sure I don't miss anything. anyone visualize what I'm talking about?? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> anyone?????
Click to expand...

I have a pair of 45mm x 240mm Alphacool rads in the bottom of my Cosmos 2. Rad #1 is up against the double fan door, and rad #2 is on the outside on the right. the fans are pulling air out of the case on both sides with the lower front fan feeding cold air right in between them and they perform wonderfully. I am also using Bitspower 90's comp fittings, and have them linked at the bottom fittings.

( there is also a 360mm. rad in the roof, and a 120mm in the exhaust position)


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Do they ship worlwide? Or do you have a link?


Hey GN if your after something like those fittings try Festo here in adelaide









http://www.festo.com/cat/en-au_au/products__01198

Also the Koolroom has Primochill acrylic tubing and matching fittings comming soon









http://www.thekoolroom.com/category/tubing/2/


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I just had sent email to them and i got a replay very fast and they only can sell 100 units only not even a small quantity for samples. I had send them another email to see if they can give me a break on 20 units hope they can say yes and i will get it in a blink of the eye.
> 
> by they way I have been running WC for long time but one think i never did is change the way i run it like every buddy else.
> 
> pump/res >> rx360 >>cpu >> rx240 >> gpu >> gpu >> rx240 circle again.
> I was thinking in running this way here, I know for a couples of hours water will have the same temp but question is. how bad or good having this order here
> 
> pump/res >> >> gpu >> gpu >> rx360 >>cpu >> rx240 >> rx240 circle again.


If these fittings end up being good and problem-free, I'll be selling some of them.


----------



## aaroc

My current PC, only closed loop WC for the moment. Maybe in the future i will do a big boy WC.








1 Corsair H100i for the CPU with 2 Corsair SP120 PWM Quiet Pull and 1 Push, I cant install the second for push because it doesn fit. Im looking for a slim 120mm fan. And 2 Antec H20 620 with Dwoods bracket to cool two XFX HD 7870 Core 2GB in CFX with 4 Corsair SP 120 Quiet Pull Push. May I join the club?


----------



## Destrto

Update to my (long ago) previous submission. Added some Antec coolers to my GPUs.


----------



## Seredin

I love seeing fellow /g/entlemen here.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> After seeing this picture it almost looks like he doesn't have to worry about clearing the fan, just position the elbows so that they angle towards the side of the case and then straight up on the second one.


Exactly what I thought, thanks a lot, already ordered them, should be here tomorrow.


----------



## Jeemil89

Updated my rig a bit this weekend. I made a psu cover from acrylic and noctua fans painted and did som sleeving (gonna take a week for my fingers to recover ).
I'm using all black coolant now and gonna upload some pictures later on. But this is after the small update

Pics.











Thoughts?


----------



## derickwm

Nicely done.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

That's beautiful!


----------



## skyn3t

Yup I have to agree with Genius jr, very nice love the psu cover.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Yup I have to agree with Genius jr, very nice love the psu cover.


Want to do it yourself?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1281014/acrylic-bending-101/0_20


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Nicely done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> That's beautiful!


Thanks guys!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Want to do it yourself?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1281014/acrylic-bending-101/0_20


That was one of the few threads i read before starting with acrylic bending. Very helpful!
Thanks B neg for your guides







!


----------



## Daredevil 720

Has any of you guys ever used XSPC compression fittings? They're priced pretty decently and I'm planning on buying some for my first watercooled rig.

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=12869

My main concern though is that they're nickel plated. Is this something to avoid, such as nickel plated waterblocks? I mean, do nickel plated fittings introduce the same maintenance issues as nickel plated waterblocks? But then again, Bitspower fittings are nickel coated, which I guess is the same thing.

IM CONFUS!


----------



## derickwm

Nickel plated fittings and waterblocks are fine these days. The problem was isolated.


----------



## Daredevil 720

But we still shouldn't use silver kill coils with nickel plated parts, am I right?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> But we still shouldn't use silver kill coils with nickel plated parts, am I right?


Why not? I've used a silver kill coil for over a year in my loop and had no issues.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Why not? I've used a silver kill coil for over a year in my loop and had no issues.


From what I've been reading (old posts) it accelerates corrosion. Things might have changed now, IDK..


----------



## derickwm

Keyword being old posts.


----------



## derickwm

Mmm


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mmm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip


Sex.


----------



## TampaChaz

Am I the only one who peed themselves a little looking at all the frozen condensation just waiting to thaw out and give the DIMM slots a thorough rinsing out? LOL

I live in Florida, on the coast. Water is a fact of life here. At 7AM this morning the humidity level was already 83% because of the stormy, wet weekend we just had. I would be terrified of subzero cooling in my environment. Even with an AC unit dedicated solely to my room, a can of cold soda still gets condensation on it. It's super smexy though!


----------



## derickwm

Or take the frozen bits out while they're still frozen then wipe them externally.


----------



## protzman

Hahah


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mmm


Motherboard waterblock in the background is looking good.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## mav2000

So, here's the update for the day on my build. Just thought I would share it here as well.

Here's the light panel. And its done....a huge task and a lot of work, but it justifies all of it.



Its looking very very nice......and I am totally floored


----------



## TampaChaz

I know....it's just my first reaction was AHHHHHHH condensation! It's a knee jerk reaction for those of us geeks who live AT sea level hehe.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Am I the only one who peed themselves a little looking at all the frozen condensation just waiting to thaw out and give the DIMM slots a thorough rinsing out? LOL
> 
> I live in Florida, on the coast. Water is a fact of life here. At 7AM this morning the humidity level was already 83% because of the stormy, wet weekend we just had. I would be terrified of subzero cooling in my environment. Even with an AC unit dedicated solely to my room, a can of cold soda still gets condensation on it. It's super smexy though!


And here it's already 103F at 7AM today - but condensation isn't usually a problem (today it might be as we have 11% humidity - but it's normally less than 5%).







Here your biggest problem with subzero cooling is having all of your LN2 evaporate before it hits the pot. (OK, I'm certainly not serious with that exaggeration - but I _am_ getting sick of these 117F days!)


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Or take the frozen bits out while they're still frozen then wipe them externally.


Or move somewhere less full of nopes and humidity. "Florida is the Australia of the US".


----------



## derickwm




----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


ROFL







That is PRECISELY why I keep my head shaved!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

And here I thought all this time that it was the ALIENS that made his hair that way... to think it was just humidity.


----------



## szeged

Here in north Florida its the same freakin way.

But you know what they say. If you don't like the weather in Florida, just wait 15 minutes.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Here in north Florida its the same freakin way.
> 
> But you know what they say. If you don't like the weather in Florida, just wait 15 minutes.


We same the same up here in Central IL. 80's in December snows in April... got figure..


----------



## _REAPER_

Right now in 47C here in Afghanistan right now.. normally over 110F by 11am


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Right now in 47C here in Afghanistan right now.. normally over 110F by 11am


Ouch... have me beat by 2C today... but we might have had you beat yesterday. Sorry you've got the heat to deal with along with everything else over there.


----------



## wermad

Little late June gloom (where july already







). Still holding in the mid 70s F









Waiting on ups to deliver some more rads


----------



## derickwm

Yeah I'm dying when it's 35C. You guys can keep that 40C+ nonsense to yourself.


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> We same the same up here in Central IL. 80's in December snows in April... got figure..


Great huh? ha

i'll keep our 20C in July though


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Great huh? ha
> 
> i'll keep our 20C in July though


And I'll keep my 20C in January!


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> And I'll keep my 20C in January!


I was just over in Vegas 3 weeks ago. Think it was around 12C here and I landed there with 42C. NO THANKS! lol


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> And I'll keep my 20C in January!


I'll keep my -30C thanks.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'll keep my -30C thanks.


Nooooo way Jose! I love our cool summers but I absolutely dread the dark, cold, depressing winters.


----------



## TampaChaz

I feel the urge to apologize to B Negative. One weather comment this morning and I've managed to completely derail the topic train....sorry! Lol


----------



## Frankzro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Hey man. You can literally do whatever you want. Generally a double 120 we call a 240 etc. Like I have a 240 > 360 > cpu > gpu.
> 
> Are you cooling cpu with another loop? Air?
> 
> Not weird at all. Usually cases are built in a way where you need to mix and match rad sizes to accommodate space unless you are building in a large case.
> 
> Good luck.
> Those look good. Nice and short. While still looking like theyre being sufficient enough. My phobya push fittings are a little long I find. Maybe your just look short because they are 12mm.


if you get the time check out some of the pictures I posted on my OCN account, I am using an ANTEC Skeleton Case ( Large Version)



I'll be taking more pictures of the parts I have, this will be my first attempt at a custom watercooling loop. I will not be using this on the CPU because this computer is for bitcoin ( LTC).

I have ALOT of parts and plugs and tubes and fans and fan mesh and all that --- bards and L barbs Silver Coils and other chemicals... its insane!... The hard part is working with the Antec Skeleton.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> And here it's already 103F at 7AM today - but condensation isn't usually a problem (today it might be as we have 11% humidity - but it's normally less than 5%).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here your biggest problem with subzero cooling is having all of your LN2 evaporate before it hits the pot. (OK, I'm certainly not serious with that exaggeration - but I _am_ getting sick of these 117F days!)


Tell me about it. I have to work out in it for most of the day. 117 is in the shade. Stand on the sidewalk and you shoes might melt.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Right now in 47C here in Afghanistan right now.. normally over 110F by 11am


Shouldn't you be on a transport by now. Welcome home and thanks for the service.


----------



## hawker

My current system:

I cut a hole in the top of my Fractal Design Define XL case to fit in a 240 radiator





Specs:
Intel i7 2600k @ 5.1Ghz
Gigabyte P67A-UD3H-B3
Corsair 16GB 1600
XFX HD7970 Ghz ed.

WC setup:
EK Supremacy
EK Pump/res frontbay combo.
Swiftech 240 Rad
Phobya 120 Rad


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I feel the urge to apologize to B Negative. One weather comment this morning and I've managed to completely derail the topic train....sorry! Lol


Don't worry. He generally has a sunny disposition and knows how to chill.


----------



## wermad

Rads are in












Still a bit away. Waiting on some last minute fittings (haven't we've all been here before







) and some minor items.


----------



## derickwm

Man oh man. Dem fans going to be fighting for air!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Man oh man. Dem fans going to be fighting for air!


How so? they're going to feed from the left and out to the right.


----------



## derickwm

Well that's not very efficient wermad









...Don't make me break out Martin's graphs


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Want to do it yourself
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1281014/acrylic-bending-101/0_20


I may doing it on my htpc







, I do love the look from my enermax s galaxy evo. I'm looking to give my psu to a artisan just to paint the brand name that is white to red color. I tried it one time but I messed up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> From what I've been reading (old posts) it accelerates corrosion. Things might have changed now, IDK..


Kill coil with tygon and primochill tubing are not made to mix. I had made a lit testing on plasticiser thread. I do know what I'm talking about. The best cheap tubing that hold's up very well is Durelene , and only sidewinder computers sells them. Primochill used to be a top notch tubing in the past but some how they end up changing the manufactory and messed up everything "they still no admit it but it is the truth" but right now the started to look after from they mistakes they did in the past. " I do have the new batch tubing in my hands and I will going to test it so hard just to see How they improvement. But the best thing to run in our Distilled water is mayhems biocider or old school pt nuke or dead water. I do say not to use kill coil by any means.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Sex.


Yup
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> We same the same up here in Central IL. 80's in December snows in April... got figure..


Lol you just make my day, if my mom reads this she will say " this is the end of the world.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well that's not very efficient wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...Don't make me break out Martin's graphs


Fans will be running at 5v and with two 480s, a 360, and a 240 I should have enough rad to trade off some efficiency









Btw, ppl stack fans like this with the massive air cpu coolers. Don't see the harm. And lets not get technical for now. Its about having fun with it too







.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fans will be running at 5v and with two 480s, a 360, and a 240 I should have enough rad to trade off some efficiency
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, ppl stack fans like this with the massive air cpu coolers. Don't see the harm. And lets not get technical for now. Its about having fun with it too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I do have to agree with derickwm, you must change the fan blow

back case <<< top rad ^^^^^ front intake<<<<<, cold air always stay in the bottom and looks like you don't have any fan blowing up. if you had at least one ot two fans in the bottom case blowing up it may work well. the way you setup the fans is like a human been with two heads one try to run to the left and the other trying to go right. so the air will be trap in the same location and not going to performance well. the front intake can work well bring the cold air in and give the top rad at least something to bread out.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I do have to agree with derickwm, you must change the fan blow
> 
> back case <<< top rad ^^^^^ front intake<<<<<, cold air always stay in the bottom and looks like you don't have any fan blowing up. if you had at least one ot two fans in the bottom case blowing up it may work well. the way you setup the fans is like a human been with two heads one try to run to the left and the other trying to go right. so the air will be trap in the same location and not going to performance well. the front intake can work well bring the cold air in and give the top rad at least something to bread out.


What.......









Two rads in the bottom chamber will blow from left to righ. Front rad/fans will blow from front to the top main chamber. Top rad will exhaust.

I've done things like this before, trust me kiddies







I'm not trying to cure cancer, just trying to wc fellas


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two rads in the bottom chamber will blow from left to righ. Front rad/fans will blow from front to the top main chamber. Top rad will exhaust.
> 
> I've done things like this before, trust me kiddies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not trying to cure cancer, just trying to wc fellas


The picture show something different, top rad blowing up and front rad blowing out. I think the fand grill made me see the same thing as derick


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> The picture show something different, top rad blowing up and front rad blowing out.


everything is in mock up right now.

edit: I have *not* finalized the fans so some of them maybe backwards, IF that's what you guys are pointing out. I'm debating painting or doing something else with the rads.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> everything is in mock up right now.
> 
> edit: I have *not* finalized the fans so some of them maybe backwards, IF that's what you guys are pointing out. I'm debating painting or doing something else with the rads.


Yeah bud, now you got it the fans are backwards. like you said you had not done it yet. but hey this case is so







keep it up I want to see this case lift up from the floor LOL so many rads and so mane fans.









can I have your case and I give mine to you. just a fair trade


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Yeah bud, now you got it the fans are backwards. like you said you had not done it yet. but hey this case is so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keep it up I want to see this case lift up from the floor LOL so many rads and so mane fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can I have your case and I give mine to you. just a fair trade


Ah, ok, my bad if I had caused confusion. The 240 took a bit of a beating trying to make it fit in the front. Most of the paint chipping on the screw hole area which you can't see once the fans are on there. Wanted to paint them but I'm not very good at painting if I'm honest. I'll see what I can figure out. So nothing finalized for now. Plus, I'm waiting on a small order for additional fittings from ppcs.com. Because of the holiday, it won't arrive until the week's end







.

Hmmm...I have a HAF XB we can trade


----------



## chino1974

Here's my 900d build being test fit. This rhing is a blast to work in!!!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ah, ok, my bad if I had caused confusion. The 240 took a bit of a beating trying to make it fit in the front. Most of the paint chipping on the screw hole area which you can't see once the fans are on there. Wanted to paint them but I'm not very good at painting if I'm honest. I'll see what I can figure out. So nothing finalized for now. Plus, I'm waiting on a small order for additional fittings from ppcs.com. Because of the holiday, it won't arrive until the week's end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Hmmm...I have a HAF XB we can trade


Not a problem bud,and yeah I'm still waiting some fittings too, I can't fill my loop till it get's here. Looks like we are in the same boat. by the way some tease here







the rest are here [Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues

I painted all my pci brackets eben tyhe IO mobo plate


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Little late June gloom (where july already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Still holding in the mid 70s F
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on ups to deliver some more rads


waiting on 4x 45* fittings. been down 2 weekends. this makes the second week ive tried using what i have. after 2 orders i still have to wait on a third. gtx275 = source games


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> waiting on 4x 45* fittings. been down 2 weekends. this makes the second week ive tried using what i have. after 2 orders i still have to wait on a third. gtx275 = source games


i can rig up my loop for now but Its a pita breaking it down and draining it. Since I have some more work that i want to do, the down time is going to come in handy. But, its an uber pita to wait a while for two 90° adapters (







).


----------



## pc-illiterate

yep. ive been looking at my case racking my brain on what i can do while i wait for the weekend 'assembly'. i got a few things accomplished: holes drilled, holes cut, pieces added.
did you guys know bitspower o-rings are larger in diameter than other fittings? i got 50 rings and 5 bitspower fittings. need smaller. poopy on me.
and that rig is going to be badass. you do great work. well, quite a few here do. all except b-neg. he sucks, doing all that copper and acrylic crap...


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me wrap my head around the visual on this and the measurements and get back to you.......of course 20 other people will have responded by then and my response will be a moot point by then...LOL


ya I'm not stacking fans more like sandwiching two rx240`s with the deltas in the middle just worried about the spacing with my compression fittings thanks..


----------



## Kires

I keep checking on EVGA's website to see if they will get more waterblocks for the GTX 680 Classified, does anyone have any ideas if they are going to restock?

Also on the same note, It says to use the GTX 680 Classified backplate and gives a link where to buy but it doesnt take me anywhere. Any suggestions?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kires*
> 
> I keep checking on EVGA's website to see if they will get more waterblocks for the GTX 680 Classified, does anyone have any ideas if they are going to restock?
> 
> Also on the same note, It says to use the GTX 680 Classified backplate and gives a link where to buy but it doesnt take me anywhere. Any suggestions?


Being that Swiftech manufactures the water block for EVGA's cards, let me look into this for you. I'll try to have and answer for you in the next couple of days since I won't be in tomorrow. Just PM me and remind me to look into it for you.


----------



## wermad

So I ordered some lrt green tube since I needed a bit more and I got this instead:



Never seen this "Atomic Green Limited" one, but I'll be using it







. But then again, i was lucky enough to get a "Pearl Blue" from them a while ago...


----------



## joejoe69

Project Shift progress...

















Dual D5 pumps to bottom EX240 cross flow rad.









Water cooled HDD.

























The full mockup. HDD plexi panel requires gloss black paint and custom bracket for front EX360 needs to be fabbed.









The clearance for both rads and fitting in the front.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Joe that's amazing!!! The HDD is really cool!


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> The HDD is really cool!


I get it!


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Project Shift progress...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dual D5 pumps to bottom EX240 cross flow rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water cooled HDD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The full mockup. HDD plexi panel requires gloss black paint and custom bracket for front EX360 needs to be fabbed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The clearance for both rads and fitting in the front.


Some nice lines in there. Good job.


----------



## joejoe69

Thanks all!!


----------



## Sunreeper

I hope the water cooling setup I'm thinking of with hard tubing looks nearly half as good as yours Joe


----------



## joejoe69

Compared to soft tubing, hard tubing done by anyone looks good to me!!


----------



## Daredevil 720

Anyone know how long it takes for stuff to restock at SpecialTech.co.uk?

EK Supremacy Clean, MCP35X, AP-15s and XSPC/EK compression fittings are all out of stock for some time now..









Want to order the parts for my first custom loop and this is driving me crazy...


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Anyone know how long it takes for stuff to restock at SpecialTech.co.uk?
> 
> EK Supremacy Clean, MCP35X, AP-15s and XSPC/EK compression fittings are all out of stock for some time now..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Want to order the parts for my first custom loop and this is driving me crazy...


Best thing is to email them or phone. Also try Watercooling.co.uk, Scan, Overclockers and C&C Central.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Anyone know how long it takes for stuff to restock at SpecialTech.co.uk?
> 
> EK Supremacy Clean, MCP35X, AP-15s and XSPC/EK compression fittings are all out of stock for some time now..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Want to order the parts for my first custom loop and this is driving me crazy...


They are very quick,im a mod for their site,i can pass the message on if there is specifics you need.

Open a support ticket as well for maximum speed.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are very quick,im a mod for their site,i can pass the message on if there is specifics you need.
> 
> Open a support ticket as well for maximum speed.


You have a PM.


----------



## PinzaC55

Specialtech have an MCP35X listed "In Stock" http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-MCP35X-PWM-DDC-18W-Pump--MCP35X-pid-13437.html


----------



## Daredevil 720

On my computer it says "out of stock". Are you sure?


----------



## derickwm

Works on mine, try clearing your cookies.


----------



## aaroc

When you move your custom loop wc pc for taking pictures, from one room to other in your house or to a lan party - home move, do you recheck every time for leaks? Do you drain the liquid before and refill it after?

Nice hdd wc!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> When you move your custom loop wc pc for taking pictures, from one room to other in your house or to a lan party - home move, do you recheck every time for leaks? Do you drain the liquid before and refill it after?
> 
> Nice hdd wc!


Nope,unless the case flexes badly when you move it.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope,unless the case flexes badly when you move it.


This. Basically, my rule of thumb is... if you didn't have to drain it to do whatever you did.. then you shouldn't have to leak test it either. If you replaced a segment of the loop or added something to it - then naturally (but you'd have to drain it for that as well).


----------



## geort45

Hi gals/guys,

I just had some corrosion problems, my computer has been off for about two weeks while I sleeved all the cables, when finished I decided to change my loop (incorporate another rad I had in a drawer) and when dissassembling it I found corrosion in my drain line, specifically the cap at the end of it was very corroded. All my fittings are nickel plated, all reservoirs are made of copper, the only differente metal AFAIK is a Monsoon silver plug. I use distilled water and some drops of biocide only.

I flushed the radiators with vinegar. I also proceded to clean all fittings with vinegar and let them sit for about a day, some of the fittings were cleaner (I have several brands: Koolance, bitspower, Swiftech) and some rust particles settled in the container. I washed all of them with *normal* tap water, dried them with a towel and let them dry for another day.

Some screw caps for my Koolance compression fittings started forming rust (brown) *after* that, but I managed to clean them all except two that were too bad. Some other fittings formed some GREEN rust which was easily cleaned. Many fittings showed darkening of its plating, specially my Koolance Quick Disconnects. I then used metal polishing cream to try to bring them back to a shinier color which worked very good, so I then also used it to clean some of the "cloudiness" inside some fittings.

I'm not sure what caused the corrosion, never had it this bad, maybe some impurities in the distilled water? All the fittings seem to be made of copper or brass (since handling them with pliers sometimes peels the plating a bit and all seem copperish).

I don't want this c**p happening again... Could I mix in some anti-corrosion conditioner for car radiators? The one that looks like milk.

Please advice







, thanks a lot


----------



## Auxillary Field

Just lose the fittings that are affected: when the plating is already flaking off it will not stop, even with an anti corrosion additive.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auxillary Field*
> 
> Just lose the fittings that are affected: when the plating is already flaking off it will not stop, even with an anti corrosion additive.


Hi!

yeah I won't use those again, but do you think the anti corrosion conditioner (looks like milk) + distilled water will help me AND not cause problems? I heard that sometimes they react with tygon tubing?

Thanks!


----------



## Frankzro

Guys I know there are a TON of you in here , I could REALLY use a hand with my setup up. Please! Its been up for hours and not a single hit! >_<

http://www.overclock.net/t/1406212/need-help-deciding-what-to-use-and-what-not-to-use-and-possibly-what-i-might-need-pictures-provided#post_20320929

Please help me get this thing started! I'm not sure on how to apply the Rads to my case and need an extra set of eyes on this! please!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frankzro*
> 
> oh Jesus! I have no clue how that happend!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


just edit and put: "double post" (optional apology if you wish







).


----------



## Auxillary Field

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> yeah I won't use those again, but do you think the anti corrosion conditioner (looks like milk) + distilled water will help me AND not cause problems? I heard that sometimes they react with tygon tubing?
> 
> Thanks!


I'm not sure if that'll work, since I haven't tried anything like that myself. There are anti corrosion additives designed for WC applications though I think, so maybe you should look at that.

In my case I had a similar problem with some phobya nickle plated fittings a while back (the plating came off after using them for 1 week) running distilled + a silver coil, after which i just decided to ditch all nickle in my loop and use painted brass parts only. Everything's been fine since then (2 months ago).


----------



## lowfat

I didn't realize that the EK original CSQ Titan / 780 blocks didn't have inlets and outlets from both sides. Totally throws a wrench in my build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize that the EK original CSQ Titan / 780 blocks didn't have inlets and outlets from both sides. Totally throws a wrench in my build.


'

CSQ has always had this. Did yours have the adapter?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> '
> 
> CSQ has always had this. Did yours have the adapter?


I know the old CSQ blocks did. But I've never really looked at the Titan ones as no one uses them







. Everyone I've seen has the clear or acetal tops. I just assumed the CSQ version was the same as the clear one but frosted + circles.









It did come w/ the adapters but they still only face off to the side. I don't have a bridge for it nor would it really work for my build.


----------



## pc-illiterate

good job lowfat, 2 flamer now...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I know the old CSQ blocks did. But I've never really looked at the Titan ones as no one uses them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Everyone I've seen has the clear or acetal tops. I just assumed the CSQ version was the same as the clear one but frosted + circles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did come w/ the adapters but they still only face off to the side. I don't have a bridge for it nor would it really work for my build.


You need this one. It will give you the traditional top and bottom vertical ports. Ek calls it "single bridge":

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37471



(pic is of the black acetal adapter).


----------



## phillyd

thanks for posting that wermad!


----------



## sheepcut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> yeah I won't use those again, but do you think the anti corrosion conditioner (looks like milk) + distilled water will help me AND not cause problems? I heard that sometimes they react with tygon tubing?
> 
> Thanks!


I had similar problem as you did, I'm gonna take a stab at the monsoon silver plug being the culprit (before this I ran a silver strip (frozencpu) inside tubing).

I had the monsoon plug in between a rad and the res/pump combo. After about 2-3 months took the loop apart to upgrade, but found some fittings to be somewhat corroded (flaked nickel plating, not extremely severe but definitely degraded), had a mix of xspc + bitspower fittings/angles. The xspc ones were affected the most, bitspower less so (stronger plating?).

My suggestion is to take the silver plug out. Kinda useless tbh, been running without for about 3 months now and no problems, no growth etc. Running de- mineral water only (distilled to hard to find where I live).

Hope this helps


----------



## MCCSolutions

*I WAS HERE.......







*

[IMG alt="My "FATAL" Build http://www.overclock.net/t/1359879/fatal-by-mccsolutions-fx-8350-6-monitors-hd7850-4gb-ddr5-hd6970-2gb-ddr5-32gb-1866-full-parallel-water-cooled/820"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1541771/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/IMG]




*BUT NOW IM HERE........







*





*ALL THANKS TO KOOLANCE........







*


----------



## sakerfalcon

RIVE Thermal Armor anyone?











(temporarily using long screws)


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> RIVE Thermal Armor anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (temporarily using long screws)


HOLY CRAP WOULD I BE ABLE TO BUY THIS PLEASE SAY YES HOW DID YOU MAKE ZOMGA WTH


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> *I WAS HERE.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> *BUT NOW IM HERE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ALL THANKS TO KOOLANCE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


I've gotta ask, what happened to that once beautiful build?!


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> *I WAS HERE.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="My "FATAL" Build http://www.overclock.net/t/1359879/fatal-by-mccsolutions-fx-8350-6-monitors-hd7850-4gb-ddr5-hd6970-2gb-ddr5-32gb-1866-full-parallel-water-cooled/820"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1541771/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUT NOW IM HERE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ALL THANKS TO KOOLANCE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


What happened here exactly?


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> *I WAS HERE.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="My "FATAL" Build http://www.overclock.net/t/1359879/fatal-by-mccsolutions-fx-8350-6-monitors-hd7850-4gb-ddr5-hd6970-2gb-ddr5-32gb-1866-full-parallel-water-cooled/820"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1541771/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUT NOW IM HERE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ALL THANKS TO KOOLANCE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


what happened? the 180 degree u joint leak?

*edit* on the koolance Ram-33 block

2nd edit, for those not familiar with the koolance ram blocks, there is a U connector (below)



i found that when i was using 2 blocks (spaced 1..x..2..x) a small leak would happen, to achieve that spacing you basically have to set the U joint to the "max" line, which only feels like it hits 1 of the 2 o-rings, thats why i stopped using the U joint, just couldnt trust it


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've gotta ask, what happened to that once beautiful build?!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> What happened here exactly?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> what happened? the 180 degree u joint leak?
> 
> *edit* on the koolance Ram-33 block
> 
> 2nd edit, for those not familiar with the koolance ram blocks, there is a U connector (below)
> 
> i found that when i was using 2 blocks (spaced 1..x..2..x) a small leak would happen, to achieve that spacing you basically have to set the U joint to the "max" line, which only feels like it hits 1 of the 2 o-rings, thats why i stopped using the U joint, just couldnt trust it


Yep Koolance RAM 133 Kit works great but is a pain if your benching, swaping RAM, or moving your system alot. And it was the stupid U-Joint fittings. I normaly have all 4 blocks in but I was only benching two sticks at the time. What happend in this particular instance I was doing a Installation of new ram and I had the system on after installing the RAM and I had the blocks Zip tied together as usual and they just started gushing my "FATAL"s Blood!!!!!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You need this one. It will give you the traditional top and bottom vertical ports. Ek calls it "single bridge":
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37471
> 
> 
> 
> (pic is of the black acetal adapter).












Looks like that might work. Hell it might even look better than I originally considered.









Ordered a pair.


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Yep Koolance RAM 133 Kit works great but is a pain if your benching, swaping RAM, or moving your system alot. And it was the stupid U-Joint fittings. I normaly have all 4 blocks in but I was only benching two sticks at the time. What happend in this particular instance I was doing a Installation of new ram and I had the system on after installing the RAM and I had the blocks Zip tied together as usual and they just started gushing my "FATAL"s Blood!!!!!!












anything permanently damaged? or just soaked in the short term?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> *I WAS HERE.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="My "FATAL" Build http://www.overclock.net/t/1359879/fatal-by-mccsolutions-fx-8350-6-monitors-hd7850-4gb-ddr5-hd6970-2gb-ddr5-32gb-1866-full-parallel-water-cooled/820"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1541771/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUT NOW IM HERE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ALL THANKS TO KOOLANCE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Good lord man, I hope things survived


----------



## huhh

Gotta install the UV lights and LED's some day.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> RIVE Thermal Armor anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (temporarily using long screws)


Turned out pretty good.


----------



## lowfat

Tomorrow I'll be polishing them clear.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-17-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-16.jpg.html


----------



## Sunreeper




----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> *I WAS HERE.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="My "FATAL" Build http://www.overclock.net/t/1359879/fatal-by-mccsolutions-fx-8350-6-monitors-hd7850-4gb-ddr5-hd6970-2gb-ddr5-32gb-1866-full-parallel-water-cooled/820"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1541771/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUT NOW IM HERE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ALL THANKS TO KOOLANCE........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Don't do that man, it scared me.








Reminds me of little Red Riding Hood skipping down the road with her basket & all the sudden the Big Bad Wolf pops out of the trees.
I'm sweatin bullets here.

I hope all turns out well.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> Don't do that man, it scared me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reminds me of little Red Riding Hood skipping down the road with her basket & all the sudden the Big Bad Wolf pops out of the trees.
> I'm sweatin bullets here.
> 
> I hope all turns out well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anything permanently damaged? or just soaked in the short term?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good lord man, I hope things survived


Yep! Its all good just got to get all that crap out of my case, the only sensative thing it got on was the back of the switches on my Front Switch panel but the fluid is non conductive so I think it will be fine!


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> RIVE Thermal Armor anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (temporarily using long screws)


I wish it were black. Can't say I'm a fan of the clear plexi. Not sure what the point of it is.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> RIVE Thermal Armor anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (temporarily using long screws)
> 
> 
> 
> I wish it were black. Can't say I'm a fan of the clear plexi. Not sure what the point of it is.
Click to expand...

I think that's just a prototype and the final will be black


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I think that's just a prototype and the final will be black


Awesome. THen it will look super sharp.


----------



## Red1776

Why would you want to hide all that electro-mechanical beauty??

Its like putting wheel covers on a Steam locomotive.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Why would you want to hide all that electro-mechanical beauty??
> 
> Its like putting wheel covers on a Steam locomotive.


Sabertooth armor is getting popular. Asus is making a few more this round w/ the z87 boards. Its catching on


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Why would you want to hide all that electro-mechanical beauty??
> 
> Its like putting wheel covers on a Steam locomotive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sabertooth armor is getting popular. Asus is making a few more this round w/ the z87 boards. Its catching on
Click to expand...

Yeah it really is, especially the carbon fiber look. I already supposed I was in the minority with these.


----------



## Kires

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> RIVE Thermal Armor anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (temporarily using long screws)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> HOLY CRAP WOULD I BE ABLE TO BUY THIS PLEASE SAY YES HOW DID YOU MAKE ZOMGA WTH


OMG!!! CAN I HAZ?!?!?!? TAKE MAI MONIES!!!!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sabertooth armor is getting popular. Asus is making a few more this round w/ the z87 boards. Its catching on


I would really like to have a board like the Sabertooth with that armor. I think it looks really clean.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Anyone know where to find a EK Supreme HF White Top Acetal?? (whole block, or just the top replacement?)


----------



## crazymofo

Awesome build (not mine, just sharing). 3 titans btw, check the specs at APES page











https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153003552885301&set=a.220281835300.271899.17437970300&type=1&theater


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazymofo*
> 
> Awesome build (not mine, just sharing)...
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153003552885301&set=a.220281835300.271899.17437970300&type=1&theater


Looks awesome but where the reservoir?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Looks awesome but where the reservoir?


Its on the right beside the 5.25 bay cage.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Looks awesome but where the reservoir?


Next to the sleeved ATX cable, its quite hidden because of the color


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Looks awesome but where the reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> Its on the right beside the 5.25 bay cage.
Click to expand...

Whoa now I see it thats amazing I've never seen a build where the reservoir blends in so well


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I wish it were black. Can't say I'm a fan of the clear plexi. Not sure what the point of it is.


Initially I thought it would be easier to cut/measure using clear acrylic, but that ended up being a non-issue. With clear acrylic though there could be lighting options. I'm not sure yet.

Plans are to paint it black and copper to go with the theme.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Why would you want to hide all that electro-mechanical beauty??
> 
> Its like putting wheel covers on a Steam locomotive.


Well, I don't like red. I think it looks too generic and overused. Also covering up the mobo will give it a cleaner look overall.


----------



## szeged

hi guys, quick help here please,

getting a 900d Friday/Monday and trying to think how im gonna set the loop up.

so far ive come out with this (excuse the bad paint attempt







)



i wish i had a bitspower pump upgrade kit so i could avoid that awkward tube routing in the bottom that goes from the pump to the 489 rad to the gpu, but since i dont, thats all i can think of.

what do you guys think? any improvements you can make for me?









also does anyone know if the corsair quiet edition sp120 fans are worth the price really? i have xspc ex rads so the low rpm wouldnt be too much of a problem, but the price is killing me atm. They do look great and would go with my build though.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I wish it were black. Can't say I'm a fan of the clear plexi. Not sure what the point of it is.
> 
> 
> 
> Initially I thought it would be easier to cut/measure using clear acrylic, but that ended up being a non-issue. With clear acrylic though there could be lighting options. I'm not sure yet.
> 
> Plans are to paint it black and copper to go with the theme.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Why would you want to hide all that electro-mechanical beauty??
> 
> Its like putting wheel covers on a Steam locomotive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well, I don't like red. I think it looks too generic and overused. Also covering up the mobo will give it a cleaner look overall.
Click to expand...

No, that was just personal preference and rhetoric. I think you are doing great work there.








I just prefer the look of the parts/components and the overall feel of seeing the machine. I would actually like a clear one for the build I'm starting now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I wish it were black. Can't say I'm a fan of the clear plexi. Not sure what the point of it is.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if you meant practically as well however, the idea from ASUS is that with active cooling moving air around under the 'thermal Armor' it cools the boards components (and the PCB for that matter) better and in a more uniform matter than the usual way of radiating it away and/or the case flow. Air trapped under the armor would have turbulence created going around components and such. Kind of the Chicago method of cooling I guess.
Click to expand...


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hi guys, quick help here please,
> 
> getting a 900d Friday/Monday and trying to think how im gonna set the loop up.
> 
> so far ive come out with this (excuse the bad paint attempt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> i wish i had a bitspower pump upgrade kit so i could avoid that awkward tube routing in the bottom that goes from the pump to the 489 rad to the gpu, but since i dont, thats all i can think of.
> 
> what do you guys think? any improvements you can make for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also does anyone know if the corsair quiet edition sp120 fans are worth the price really? i have xspc ex rads so the low rpm wouldnt be too much of a problem, but the price is killing me atm. They do look great and would go with my build though.


I would route it Pump>GPU>Bottom Rad>CPU>Top Rad> Reservoir>Pump

As it is there you have hot coolant coming out of the CPU to the Res then straight to the pump making the pump hot, then the coolant only gets cooled at the bottom rad. My GPU runs at 80 degrees under full load so I would want the larger rad to dissipate that heat before it goes anywhere else.
If you had the res at the back of the case you could avoid having the outlet tube from the CPU going off to the right. I have the HAF-X and there is sufficient space at the bottom to route the Res>Pump return tube out of sight.


----------



## kcuestag

Here's a picture of a watercooled Corsair 650D done by a friend in his store prosilentpc.com for a customer:



I kinda like the look of it, simple and powerful, I believe it's an i5 3570k and a GTX780 Titan with an EK Nickel block.

Also, the new Primochill Advanced LRT is awesome, I have it as well and it looks so much better than other brands, specially the clear tubing, looks epic.









On another note, Bitspower adapters arriving today, so I'll have to drain loop and install them.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hi guys, quick help here please,
> 
> getting a 900d Friday/Monday and trying to think how im gonna set the loop up.
> 
> so far ive come out with this (excuse the bad paint attempt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> i wish i had a bitspower pump upgrade kit so i could avoid that awkward tube routing in the bottom that goes from the pump to the 489 rad to the gpu, but since i dont, thats all i can think of.
> 
> what do you guys think? any improvements you can make for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also does anyone know if the corsair quiet edition sp120 fans are worth the price really? i have xspc ex rads so the low rpm wouldnt be too much of a problem, but the price is killing me atm. They do look great and would go with my build though.
> 
> 
> 
> I would route it Pump>GPU>Bottom Rad>CPU>Top Rad> Reservoir>Pump
> 
> *As it is there you have hot coolant coming out of the CPU to the Res then straight to the pump making the pump hot, then the coolant only gets cooled at the bottom rad.* My GPU runs at 80 degrees under full load so I would want the larger rad to dissipate that heat before it goes anywhere else.
> If you had the res at the back of the case you could avoid having the outlet tube from the CPU going off to the right. I have the HAF-X and there is sufficient space at the bottom to route the Res>Pump return tube out of sight.
Click to expand...

This simply is not true,

It takes 264 watts of power to raise the coolant temp 1C with a flow of 1 GPM.

In a single GPU with CPU setup, there's marginally enough heat available to raise the coolant even a full 2C from min to max under the most demanding benching.

The top rad will take off at least half, if not more, of whatever heat the GPU gives up, so the coolant into the res after the CPU, versus out of the lower rad, is barely more than 1C higher under the worst case scenario, and not measurable different under normal use.

His initial routing has no design flaw, it's completely a matter of personal aesthetics.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hi guys, quick help here please,
> 
> getting a 900d Friday/Monday and trying to think how im gonna set the loop up.
> 
> so far ive come out with this (excuse the bad paint attempt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> i wish i had a bitspower pump upgrade kit so i could avoid that awkward tube routing in the bottom that goes from the pump to the 489 rad to the gpu, but since i dont, thats all i can think of.
> 
> what do you guys think? any improvements you can make for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also does anyone know if the corsair quiet edition sp120 fans are worth the price really? i have xspc ex rads so the low rpm wouldnt be too much of a problem, but the price is killing me atm. They do look great and would go with my build though.
> 
> 
> 
> I would route it Pump>GPU>Bottom Rad>CPU>Top Rad> Reservoir>Pump
> 
> As it is there you have hot coolant coming out of the CPU to the Res then straight to the pump making the pump hot, then the coolant only gets cooled at the bottom rad. My GPU runs at 80 degrees under full load so I would want the larger rad to dissipate that heat before it goes anywhere else.
> If you had the res at the back of the case you could avoid having the outlet tube from the CPU going off to the right. I have the HAF-X and there is sufficient space at the bottom to route the Res>Pump return tube out of sight.
Click to expand...

You need to brush up on loop basics,order doesnt matter and the water doesnt get hot,it varies less than a c over the whole loop.


----------



## szeged

Yeah I wasn't worried about heat dissipation problems,n mostly just how the loop looked, for some reason with the draw up I have there, something seems off butiI can't tell what it is exactly.


----------



## joejoe69

Project Shift:

All rads finally holding up on their own and loop mockup complete. Time to paint, fill, and wire up.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I would route it Pump>GPU>Bottom Rad>CPU>Top Rad> Reservoir>Pump


That's one messy loop route with the case and rads that the OP has. It's fine the way he has it but I would switch the bottom rad inlet/outlet for bleeding purposes.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Yeah I wasn't worried about heat dissipation problems,n mostly just how the loop looked, for some reason with the draw up I have there, something seems off butiI can't tell what it is exactly.


Swap the inlet/outlet of your bottom rad. It looks fine.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here's a picture of a watercooled Corsair 650D done by a friend in his store prosilentpc.com for a customer:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda like the look of it, simple and powerful, I believe it's an i5 3570k and a GTX780 Titan with an EK Nickel block.
> 
> Also, the new Primochill Advanced LRT is awesome, I have it as well and it looks so much better than other brands, specially the clear tubing, looks epic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, Bitspower adapters arriving today, so I'll have to drain loop and install them.


I'm using the Primochill Adavanced LRT as well and I have to agree. The visual quality, especially in the clear is awesome. I posted pics of the CPU mock up in my project build and people thought it was hard acrylic!


----------



## Kenjiwing

Questions about painting motherboards/fixing color schemes

Im going a blue/black build and I have a red/black motherboard. Dont really have the option to change since I dont want to change my socket using a 980x.

Any ideas on the best way to paint the red either black or blue?



The only ports im concerned about are the 3 PCI-E ports and the 1 sata port.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Project Shift:
> 
> All rads finally holding up on their own and loop mockup complete. Time to paint, fill, and wire up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm really diggin that







Do you have a log so I can check out more?


----------



## derickwm

Tape up the rest of the board, insert a dead card into the pci-e slots and a sata cable into the sata port. Paint.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Tape up the rest of the board, insert a dead card into the pci-e slots and a sata cable into the sata port. Paint.


by hand,avoid spraying.


----------



## crazymofo

Hey guys can you help me in my thread? Basically i have bitspower flowsensor I it came with 2 set of flow diameter conversion. I dont know what is the use of it, mind explaining what it does exactly? Is it safe to not use it?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1406385/bitspower-flow-sensor-help#post_20328548


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> No, that was just personal preference and rhetoric. I think you are doing great work there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just prefer the look of the parts/components and the overall feel of seeing the machine. I would actually like a clear one for the build I'm starting now.
> I'm not sure if you meant practically as well however, the idea from ASUS is that with active cooling moving air around under the 'thermal Armor' it cools the boards components (and the PCB for that matter) better and in a more uniform matter than the usual way of radiating it away and/or the case flow. Air trapped under the armor would have turbulence created going around components and such. Kind of the Chicago method of cooling I guess.


It's practically worthless, since all the acrylic do is trap heat. However, I don't think there are any major heat-inducing components of note on the bottom half of the mobo, so I should be safe. If I was _really_ a tryhard, I'd just remove the southbridge block, stick some mini GPU heatsinks on it (and every single chip under the thermal armor), and then drill some holes to mount an AP-15 exactly over the SB area. The airflow ought to be enough to run things super chilly.









All the Sabertooth Z77 40mm does is to generate high-pitched noise while doing absolutely nothing.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> All the Sabertooth Z77 40mm does is to generate high-pitched noise while doing absolutely nothing.


Hey! It also performs the task of making an otherwise clean and purely aesthetic addition look busy and stupid. IMO of course.


----------



## kcuestag

Good news, the Bitspower adapters (30, 60 and 90º) arrived and already using them, great quality. Bad news, the two Alphacool 45º adapters (The ones I said I'd use to separate tubing from the GPU's on bottom rad) I bought are almost as bad as the previous non-branded adapters, so in the mean time I'm using teflon sealing tape on those two 45º adapters (No leaks at all even without it, unless I force it a lot) until I can replace them with Bitspower.

Do you guys know if it is normal for adapters (I'm using *these*) to leak slightly (Just few water drops) if you force them a lot?

As long as I don't force them they won't leak even if I rotate them, they seem to be better than the previous ones. not sure if I should keep them with the teflon tape as well for a while or replace them as soon as I can with Bitspower.

PS: I'll take some pictures tomorrow to show the bitspower, and the alphacool with teflon sealing tape, don't have the good camera at home right now.









Edit:

Here's a crappy phone picture (With panel on so even more crap







) showing the Alphacool adapters, the tubing is well separated from GPU cables now:



As you see I used some teflon tape on all rotation sides to prevent any kind of leaks just to be safe, only one of the adapters leaked a bit when forcing it on one of the rotation side but I still want to play it safe so I secured all 4 rotation sides.

You can also see one of the Bitspower below the 2nd GPU, they look so good.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Yep, the Bitspower fittings are definitely pricey (stupidly so IMO) but you can't fault their quality or aesthetics!


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> by hand,avoid spraying.


Completely agree. I've hand painted connectors before. In the case of the connectors you are referencing, you won't be connecting and disconnecting things on a daily basis. Paint them, let them dry and cure (24 hours) and then carefully attach the devices. You'll be good to go. Remember to choose Gloss or Matte finish for your paint depending on the finish of the surrounding connectors. You don't want to draw unwanted attention to them for seeming out of place.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Completely agree. I've hand painted connectors before. In the case of the connectors you are referencing, you won't be connecting and disconnecting things on a daily basis. Paint them, let them dry and cure (24 hours) and then carefully attach the devices. You'll be good to go. Remember to choose Gloss or Matte finish for your paint depending on the finish of the surrounding connectors. You don't want to draw unwanted attention to them for seeming out of place.


Can you tell me more about the process?

Just do basic taping off the area and hand paint with a brush? Any specific type of paint or did you use the acrylic markers? greatly appreciate the tips guys.

Also I assume you only paint the outside because going inside the connector would damage it correct/


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Do you guys know if it is normal for adapters (I'm using *these*) to leak slightly (Just few water drops) if you force them a lot?


If you force them too much not only can you cause leaks but you can damage the threads in your block/link/pump/res etc. Think of them like ****** tighties, a snug fit is a good fit, and if you pull(tighten) them too far up you just end up with a wedgie.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Can you tell me more about the process?
> 
> Just do basic taping off the area and hand paint with a brush? Any specific type of paint or did you use the acrylic markers? greatly appreciate the tips guys.
> 
> Also I assume you only paint the outside because going inside the connector would damage it correct/


I used model paint which can be purchased at any hobby or craft store....like this http://www.testors.com/category/133656/
Definately stay out of the PCI slot and off the SATA connector. These will be concealed by whatever you have connected to them.
tape off the area where the connector meets the board, use a small model painting brush and take your time. There's no need to rush. If you just slap some paint on them, it's gonna look amateur and defeat the whole purpose. Since these areas don't experience a great deal of touching or contact with other parts, there isn't a need to sand the surface before painting. I would recommend giving the paint a full 24 hours to completely cure before messing with it though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New XSPC res!

A beauty too!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New XSPC res!
> 
> A beauty too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Must... resist... don't need...

That is really, really nice. I like the integrated bracket / base (depending on orientation I suppose). How many ports, and are there other colors I assume?


----------



## briddell

Bending copper pipe to the right angles, and then realizing you cut it too long, or is a few mm off in some direction, is incredibly annoying. It will all be worth it soon, though


----------



## lowfat

Polished EK CSQ + Koolance heatsink.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-22.jpg.html


----------



## ChrisB17

Putting this into a small case wasn't easy lol. Opinions?


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Polished EK CSQ + Koolance heatsink.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-22.jpg.html






God, I need a new camera. What do you use?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> 
> God, I need a new camera. What do you use?


Canon T3i + 17-40 f4 L


----------



## TampaChaz

Just got an email from Rosewill about their new Throne full tower case. http://www.rosewill.com/landingpage/THRONE/ I was all excited, then i started feeling deja vu. It talks about how they spent a year of R&D on the design inside and out......but i can't help but notice the similarities between the Throne case and my Blackhawk Ultra.
Throne:

and my Ultra:

Anyone else thinking the same thing I am? It took them a year to redesign this to fit in a case that is half an inch shorter in width, 2 inches shorter in height and 4 inches shorter in length. I like the front bezel, but not enough to spend $170US to have a slightly smaller version of the system I have already...LOL


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> 
> Putting this into a small case wasn't easy lol. Opinions?


I would suggest removing the front hard drive cages and mounting the radiator there instead. It will tidy things up a bit and bring everything back inside the case.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Bending copper pipe to the right angles, and then realizing you cut it too long, or is a few mm off in some direction, is incredibly annoying. It will all be worth it soon, though


It's even more annoying to cut, build and drill a light panel only to realize you didn't factor in the bolt that pushes the whole thing to the side 1/4" - because you can easily just buy another length of pipe and re-bend or cut off the little extra... I'm not spending another 10 hours + days waiting for supplies to fix this:


Note that run from the GPU to the panel was *supposed to be straight* but isn't...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Just got an email from Rosewill about their new Throne full tower case. http://www.rosewill.com/landingpage/THRONE/ I was all excited, then i started feeling deja vu. It talks about how they spent a year of R&D on the design inside and out......but i can't help but notice the similarities between the Throne case and my Blackhawk Ultra.
> Throne:
> 
> and my Ultra:
> 
> Anyone else thinking the same thing I am? It took them a year to redesign this to fit in a case that is half an inch shorter in width, 2 inches shorter in height and 4 inches shorter in length. I like the front bezel, but not enough to spend $170US to have a slightly smaller version of the system I have already...LOL


Its just the latest trend: lots of hdd space, few 5.25, and 10-11 xl-atx style slots. Check the 900D.

Btw, the Ultra is a bit bigger and has more space at the top.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I would suggest removing the front hard drive cages and mounting the radiator there instead. It will tidy things up a bit and bring everything back inside the case.


I considered that actually was planning it. I don't mind the rad in the back. Especially with that koolance quick release adapter.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that run from the GPU to the panel was *supposed to be straight* but isn't...


This maybe, at the bottom compression fitting?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12079/ex-tub-749/Bitspower_Off-Center_Fitting_Adapter_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBOCB.html?tl=c101s1332b145#blank


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> This maybe, at the bottom compression fitting?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12079/ex-tub-749/Bitspower_Off-Center_Fitting_Adapter_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBOCB.html?tl=c101s1332b145#blank


That's a great idea, and I actually considered it at first (I have a Bitspower dual rotary snake I could have used)... the problem is that it's F-F G1/4 - so I'd need a M-M threaded adapter at the passthrough, and by the time all that's put in place:

Cost goes up by $40, tubing for that run is now less than 1" long (well visibly at least). However, I could go barbs there too like I did on the CPU-MB link above... I might have to go that route.









Most of that link will be hidden by the door frame around the window however, so I think in a few days my OCD will be able to better tolerate the offset.


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It's even more annoying to cut, build and drill a light panel only to realize you didn't factor in the bolt that pushes the whole thing to the side 1/4" - because you can easily just buy another length of pipe and re-bend or cut off the little extra... I'm not spending another 10 hours + days waiting for supplies to fix this:
> 
> 
> Note that run from the GPU to the panel was *supposed to be straight* but isn't...






I must say, the M8 with bottom pedestal looks much better than most other Case Labs configs I've seen.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> 
> I must say, the M8 with bottom pedestal looks much better than most other Case Labs configs I've seen.


Yeah, that's kinda what I thought! Originally I was feeling like I made the wrong decision going with the M8 rather than just biting the bullet and getting a T10 to begin with. Now that I've added the pedestal (despite the fact that it's basically the same size and was actually slightly MORE expensive to do this way) I think I actually prefer the M8+Ped route. Plus you get the added benefit of having the bottom rads entirely separated from the main body of the case.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I'm really diggin that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a log so I can check out more?


Yep, right here...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1355177/build-log-project-shift-nzxt-switch-810/0_20


----------



## skyn3t

Just received the rest of my fittings today going to finish my loop tonight and get my Bitspower x station in place soi can finishing routing the cable length and doing some paint on my fan blades too.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Just received the rest of my fittings today going to finish my loop tonight and get my Bitspower x station in place soi can finishing routing the cable length and doing some paint on my fan blades too.


I just got my last fittings too from ppcs.com. Love how fast they ship. I'm waiting on one more item. I bought it from an ebay seller in California thinking it would ship and arrive quickly. Still hasn't arrived







. Set backs are just the norm with any build imho. Will have to wait for the weekend to finish my build


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just got my last fittings too from ppcs.com. Love how fast they ship. I'm waiting on one more item. I bought it from an ebay seller in California thinking it would ship and arrive quickly. Still hasn't arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Set backs are just the norm with any build imho. Will have to wait for the weekend to finish my build


Right there with ya Wermad! I'm waiting on the metal shop to ship the aluminum cuts for my GPU backplates. THEN I have to drill the mounting holes, do the cutouts over the GPUs, get them powder coated and mount them before I can finish my build.......such a PITA to be this close to finished and playing the waiting game...









I added another $200 in groceries and toys to the project just to keep me occupied while I wait.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Right there with ya Wermad! I'm waiting on the metal shop to ship the aluminum cuts for my GPU backplates. THEN I have to drill the mounting holes, do the cutouts over the GPUs, get them powder coated and mount them before I can finish my build.......such a PITA to be this close to finished and playing the waiting game...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added another $200 in groceries and toys to the project just to keep me occupied while I wait.


I just ordered something simple and was hoping it would arrive sooner. Just irks when you expect something quickly but it doesn't turn out that way. Oh well, gives me plenty of time to do some other things and not rush the build.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Why would you want to hide all that electro-mechanical beauty??
> 
> Its like putting wheel covers on a Steam locomotive.


With you on that! Actually I like the clear plexi "armor", kinda like a best of both worlds. It may look even better with a light frost. But I'm partial to frosted acrylic, so...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Polished EK CSQ + Koolance heatsink.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-22.jpg.html


Oh you and your pretty pichers









Too bad I like the frosted look better though. If I could have it my way, I'd keep the frost but put them circles away


----------



## pc-illiterate

was waiting for the 'new' xspc 45* fittings. i got 4 of them. wish i had saved my money. they are too fat and imo, ugly as sin...


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> was waiting for the 'new' xspc 45* fittings. i got 4 of them. wish i had saved my money. they are too fat and imo, ugly as sin...


Pictures?


----------



## pc-illiterate

will edit this post if you want a nice crappy phone pic...

pics




bitspower and alphacool for size comparisons sake.
i am not a photograper. my daughter is and she isnt here.


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Yep, the Bitspower fittings are definitely pricey (stupidly so IMO) but you can't fault their quality or aesthetics!


I'm glad I decided on all bitspower fittings then.









The rest of my watercooling parts should be here Tuesday.
Darn holiday is preventing them from getting here Friday, oh well, delayed gratification as they say I guess.









Pictures will be posted of what I have, when I get the rest next week.


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> will edit this post if you want a nice crappy phone pic...


lol, sure why not.









Edit: Better than any pictures I've taken.
Still messing with the settings on my mobile to get the best pictures I can & still can't seem to get it just right.

On a different note, I have a copper rad, copper base on my CPU Block, the MCP-655 pump, Primochills clear Retail tubing & bitspower matte black fittings.
I recall seeing that different metals can cause damage to some of the metals, (corrosion, and other bad stuff I guess) Silver & Nickel don't mix? I don't know, but anyways am I going to have problems with my parts as listed above, also I bought a silver coil to put in the res.

Answers or Comments?


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that run from the GPU to the panel was *supposed to be straight* but isn't...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This maybe, at the bottom compression fitting?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12079/ex-tub-749/Bitspower_Off-Center_Fitting_Adapter_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBOCB.html?tl=c101s1332b145#blank
Click to expand...

Bump
On this solution/fix from Jameswalt1,

Good eye James.


----------



## Kires

I have a CM HAF 922, there are two spots for 200mm fans. If I go with 200mm rads for those spots, which ones should I get and fans to with?


----------



## Ftimster

Nzxt 200mm 1300rpm


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kires*
> 
> I have a CM HAF 922, there are two spots for 200mm fans. If I go with 200mm rads for those spots, which ones should I get and fans to with?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_672&products_id=26723

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_975&products_id=31028

For fans, I did luv my old Bitfenix 230/200 Spectre Pros.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazymofo*
> 
> Awesome build (not mine, just sharing). 3 titans btw, check the specs at APES page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153003552885301&set=a.220281835300.271899.17437970300&type=1&theater


to be honest that is one of the best nicest builds ive ever seen, you literally cant get much nicer than that i dont think i would change anything!


----------



## Seredin

I would have stitched the cables and painted over the seasonic sticker / removed it.
9.9/10, would bang


----------



## Sunreeper

What's he using to mount his pump onto the radiator?


----------



## Seredin

Some sort of bracket, which by the way looks super scuffed. Wow.


----------



## wermad

Just found out the Primochill Advance is stiffer the the LRT and screwing on the compression cap is a pita. Also, bends are a bit more stiff. Lame









Will just use one piece of the Advance as the LRT is all cut up and too short to for one run.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> 
> 
> Some sort of bracket, which by the way looks super scuffed. Wow.


its flawless... even the ram looks insane!!!




this is honestly a work of art.. its not using one of those MASSIVE cases too, its using the space and doesnt look cluttered all the lines are almost hand crafted to the millimeter!


----------



## Sunreeper

Holy crap what RAM is that?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazymofo*
> 
> Awesome build (not mine, just sharing). 3 titans btw, check the specs at APES page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153003552885301&set=a.220281835300.271899.17437970300&type=1&theater


Great, clean build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New XSPC res!
> 
> A beauty too!


Really nice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just found out the Primochill Advance is stiffer the the LRT and screwing on the compression cap is a pita. Also, bends are a bit more stiff. Lame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will just use one piece of the Advance as the LRT is all cut up and too short to for one run.


Yeah it's really stiff. Great for sharp U type bends like CPU>MB blocks. Hell trying to get the compression ring of a monsoon fitting on though when you've got any kind of a bend close to the fitting.

Mine has a slight tinge and stain to it from my coolant though which is a shame. Not anywhere near as bad as the tubing that came before it though. My tubing of choice though.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> What's he using to mount his pump onto the radiator?


Could be something like this
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewindercomputers_2266_512954865


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Holy crap what RAM is that?



Avexir Core Series - Overclock.net review


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> What's he using to mount his pump onto the radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> Could be something like this
> http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewindercomputers_2266_512954865
Click to expand...

Do you know what its called?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Holy crap what RAM is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Avexir Core Series - Overclock.net review
Click to expand...

Thanks man + rep


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Great, clean build.
> Really nice.
> Yeah it's really stiff. Great for sharp U type bends like CPU>MB blocks. Hell trying to get the compression ring of a monsoon fitting on though when you've got any kind of a bend close to the fitting.
> 
> Mine has a slight tinge and stain to it from my coolant though which is a shame. Not anywhere near as bad as the tubing that came before it though. My tubing of choice though.


Thanks bud









The Lrt has some staining and a slight hint of plasticizing but looks good anyways. A lot better then the LRT blue crap. I really just need one long piece to connect my bottom rad to the gpu(s) so that's I'll need for the Adv.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> New XSPC res!
> 
> A beauty too!


where do you even get that its not even on their site yet!!! do you have a video or pics with coolant in it?


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Do you know what its called?


It goes by the name of UN Designs Z2 Bracket Rev. 2 - for 120mm Fans.

Product info includes:
• Allows airflow over your accessories to help reduce heat, especially good for pumps
• Allows multiple mounting locations that would not normally be accessible
• Fits 120mm fans
• Can be used with any (UN)Designs Brackets, old or new
• Comes with fans screws too!

Sidewinder Computers have them in stock if you are interested









http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/undezfor3gor.html


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Do you know what its called?
> 
> 
> 
> It goes by the name of UN Designs Z2 Bracket Rev. 2 - for 120mm Fans.
> 
> Product info includes:
> • Allows airflow over your accessories to help reduce heat, especially good for pumps
> • Allows multiple mounting locations that would not normally be accessible
> • Fits 120mm fans
> • Can be used with any (UN)Designs Brackets, old or new
> • Comes with fans screws too!
> 
> Sidewinder Computers have them in stock if you are interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/undezfor3gor.html
Click to expand...

Thanks +rep







I don't know if it'll work but I have space at the bottom of my case to mount a 80mm radiator I was wondering if I'd be able to put a pump there with a pump top and then angle it in a way so that I could put a cylinder reservoir on top. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just found out the Primochill Advance is stiffer the the LRT and screwing on the compression cap is a pita. Also, bends are a bit more stiff. Lame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will just use one piece of the Advance as the LRT is all cut up and too short to for one run.


I spend almost 30 minutes yesterday just screwing down the compression caps on each fitting, it's quite hard on the Advanced LRT compared to my old Masterkleer tubing.









I'll post a picture soon.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> What's he using to mount his pump onto the radiator?


Looks like a UN Designs Z2 bracket.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> New XSPC res!
> 
> A beauty too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where do you even get that its not even on their site yet!!! do you have a video or pics with coolant in it?
Click to expand...

I know the XSPC rep really well,they have sponsored my last 3 builds with various bits.


----------



## Kires

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_672&products_id=26723
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_975&products_id=31028
> 
> For fans, I did luv my old Bitfenix 230/200 Spectre Pros.


Thanks for the response, I want to put my two gtx 680 classifieds, I7-3930K, NB, and SB (ROG RIVE) on one loop. Will those two 200mm rads be plenty with just one push and the other push/pull? Also, should I just use one pump? What would be the best pump for my situation?


----------



## derickwm

WB for Gainward/Palit 770


----------



## kcuestag

Here are the pictures I promised with the new Bitspower:





I only have 3 bitspower for now, but I'll try to replace them all with Bitspower slowly.









I had to use teflon tape on the black alphacool adapters on the bottom rad to prevent any leaks so that I can use the computer in the mean time until this Bitspower fitting arrives.


----------



## Phobia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here are the pictures I promised with the new Bitspower:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have 3 bitspower for now, but I'll try to replace them all with Bitspower slowly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to use teflon tape on the black alphacool adapters on the bottom rad to prevent any leaks so that I can use the computer in the mean time until this Bitspower fitting arrives.


Omg I haven't seen as fat as that 120 rad in your rig dmmmmm huge!


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here are the pictures I promised with the new Bitspower:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have 3 bitspower for now, but I'll try to replace them all with Bitspower slowly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to use teflon tape on the black alphacool adapters on the bottom rad to prevent any leaks so that I can use the computer in the mean time until this Bitspower fitting arrives.


Very clean loop man, sweet build!

Is the fitting on the 120mm rad the one from aquatuning?

Those are freakin horrible, their inner diameter is a joke.


----------



## Ninja Hedgehog

..


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kires*
> 
> Thanks for the response, I want to put my two gtx 680 classifieds, I7-3930K, NB, and SB (ROG RIVE) on one loop. Will those two 200mm rads be plenty with just one push and the other push/pull? Also, should I just use one pump? What would be the best pump for my situation?


According to this old thread those rads are Aluminium http://www.overclock.net/t/545909/antec-1200-200mm-radiator-opinions

I have one of these and they are Copper/Brass http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phobya-Xtreme-200-High-Performance-Radiator-/190730972632


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Very clean loop man, sweet build!
> 
> Is the fitting on the 120mm rad the one from aquatuning?
> 
> Those are freakin horrible, their inner diameter is a joke.


Yes they're the unbranded fittings from Aquatuning, except the ones I got from Bitspower and Alphacool, as I said I'll try to replace all of them with Bitspower slowly in the future.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> lol, sure why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Better than any pictures I've taken.
> Still messing with the settings on my mobile to get the best pictures I can & still can't seem to get it just right.
> 
> On a different note, I have a copper rad, copper base on my CPU Block, the MCP-655 pump, Primochills clear Retail tubing & bitspower matte black fittings.
> I recall seeing that different metals can cause damage to some of the metals, (corrosion, and other bad stuff I guess) Silver & Nickel don't mix? I don't know, but anyways am I going to have problems with my parts as listed above, also I bought a silver coil to put in the res.
> 
> Answers or Comments?


This has been discussed before. It should be fine.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here are the pictures I promised with the new Bitspower:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have 3 bitspower for now, but I'll try to replace them all with Bitspower slowly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to use teflon tape on the black alphacool adapters on the bottom rad to prevent any leaks so that I can use the computer in the mean time until this Bitspower fitting arrives.


I only use one Koolance 45 degrees angle to make the tube missed the PCIe power cable. On mine, the inner port is the one connected to the bay reservoir & the outer port connected to GPU (referring to in/out ports on the bottom radiator). Yours look nicer though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kires*
> 
> Thanks for the response, I want to put my two gtx 680 classifieds, I7-3930K, NB, and SB (ROG RIVE) on one loop. Will those two 200mm rads be plenty with just one push and the other push/pull? Also, should I just use one pump? What would be the best pump for my situation?


Yes. With the size constraints, a single fan on each rad would do pretty good. A second fan, if you can fit it, would yield a bit to no performance gain.

One pump is fine. I've rand large complex loops with 5 blocks and multiple rads with a single pump (35x).


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just got my last fittings too from ppcs.com. Love how fast they ship. I'm waiting on one more item. I bought it from an ebay seller in California thinking it would ship and arrive quickly. Still hasn't arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Set backs are just the norm with any build imho. Will have to wait for the weekend to finish my build


I was thining just to add my fittings that I just got yesterday and done. Yeah didn't happen I had to take every peace out of my case just to drill another fillport hole and repaint my base plate above the psu.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_672&products_id=26723
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_975&products_id=31028
> 
> For fans, I did luv my old Bitfenix 230/200 Spectre Pros.


The antec rad is made of "Aluminum" it won't mix good with copper. The phobya is copper better go with phobya.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just found out the Primochill Advance is stiffer the the LRT and screwing on the compression cap is a pita. Also, bends are a bit more stiff. Lame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will just use one piece of the Advance as the LRT is all cut up and too short to for one run.


I have to agree the new primochill adv is very hard to bend. My old Durelene is way soft and way better to work with compression fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> According to this old thread those rads are Aluminium http://www.overclock.net/t/545909/antec-1200-200mm-radiator-opinions
> 
> I have one of these and they are Copper/Brass http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phobya-Xtreme-200-High-Performance-Radiator-/190730972632


;-)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> The antec rad is made of "Aluminum" it won't mix good with copper. The phobya is copper better go with phobya.
> ;-)


You're right, overlooked that









Looks like Phobya makes the only copper/brass rad (?).....

Good thing I saved the pieces of LRT that I'll just reuse. This Advance stuff is a bit tough for me. I'll see how it goes but I'm not really looking forward to swore fingers/thumbs. Might pick up something else that's more LRT soft. Makes putting on the caps/rings easier (like the Duralene that plasticized).


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You're right, overlooked that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Phobya makes the only copper/brass rad (?).....
> 
> Good thing I saved the pieces of LRT that I'll just reuse. This Advance stuff is a bit tough for me. I'll see how it goes but I'm not really looking forward to swore fingers/thumbs. Might pick up something else that's more LRT soft. Makes putting on the caps/rings easier (like the Duralene that plasticized).


If you ask me wich tubing is good for wc I we ould say Durelene because it only create as slightly haze in it over time. But old primichill can give you a nightmare I still have all my old Durelene tuning it turn out yellowish a but because of the heat but when it has water on it or any dye ut won't show tge yellowish and still very clear


----------



## Modest Mouse

Anyone see any major issues with running http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1051&products_id=22033 x 3 on the UT60? If I read right it's a fairly lower fpi rad so I don't need something crazy fast like deltas or san ace. The noise to temp ratio seems pretty solid in a push config according to this little round up http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks
Input welcomed


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> Anyone see any major issues with running http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1051&products_id=22033 x 3 on the UT60? If I read right it's a fairly lower fpi rad so I don't need something crazy fast like deltas or san ace. The noise to temp ratio seems pretty solid in a push config according to this little round up http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks
> Input welcomed


Medium Yates will do very good. You might get a bad one so always order an extra one imho


----------



## Modest Mouse

I was going to order 8 as I'll likely dump a 240 in the bottom as well. Good looking out and thanks for the speedy reply. Thinking about pulling the trigger on these and a BP CPU block today


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> I was going to order 8 as I'll likely dump a 240 in the bottom as well. Good looking out and thanks for the speedy reply. Thinking about pulling the trigger on these and a BP CPU block today


Sounds like a plan


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You're right, overlooked that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Phobya makes the only copper/brass rad (?).....
> 
> Good thing I saved the pieces of LRT that I'll just reuse. This Advance stuff is a bit tough for me. I'll see how it goes but I'm not really looking forward to swore fingers/thumbs. Might pick up something else that's more LRT soft. Makes putting on the caps/rings easier (like the Duralene that plasticized).
> 
> 
> 
> If you ask me wich tubing is good for wc I we ould say Durelene because it only create as slightly haze in it over time. But old primichill can give you a nightmare I still have all my old Durelene tuning it turn out yellowish a but because of the heat but when it has water on it or any dye ut won't show tge yellowish and still very clear
Click to expand...

Alphacool's Rads are are copper all the way around. Fins, tanks, channels, etc. the only brass is the threaded inserts.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Alphacool's Rads are are copper all the way around. Fins, tanks, channels, etc. the only brass is the threaded inserts.


This, absolutely right, their my choice for WHATEVER rads I use. And the 6-7 ports on each is very useful, without them, I wouldn't be able to do my tubing through the back of my MB


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> This maybe, at the bottom compression fitting?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12079/ex-tub-749/Bitspower_Off-Center_Fitting_Adapter_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBOCB.html?tl=c101s1332b145#blank


Although I didn't use your suggestion (+rep on it however) it did get me thinking of a solution I already had at hand... Bitspower triple 90 rotary which I didn't end up needing on this rebuild... so without further ado (and still not 100% straight, but 100% _better_ IMO than it was):


Great suggestion regardless. Sometimes it just takes a second set of eyes/different perspective to deal with a problem that has you stumped. That's what's great about threads like this...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> This, absolutely right, their my choice for WHATEVER rads I use. And the 6-7 ports on each is very useful, without them, I wouldn't be able to do my tubing through the back of my MB


Mine as well... plus if you have one in the upper area of your build (and isn't that most likely no matter what case you have?) - then you have a prebuilt fill port solution without modding anything that's always the highest point in the case... stick another rad at the lowest point... and you've got the same with a drain port.







Alphacool FTW!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Alphacool's Rads are are copper all the way around. Fins, tanks, channels, etc. the only brass is the threaded inserts.


Lol, hence "copper/brass". Discussing 200mm rad








Antec one is aluminum.


----------



## PedroC1999

My top fill hole, is literally covered by a 1mm bit of aluminum in my switch 810, so I need to cut that off before filling lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> My top fill hole, is literally covered by a 1mm bit of aluminum in my switch 810, so I need to cut that off before filling lol


As long as its not in direct contact with the liquid your ok. There's a few aluminum and anodized fillports. I had a DD one in my old 932 build. Never had an issue.


----------



## PedroC1999

Its like the fill ports on the XT45 are 1 mm too close to the fan, so it hits something, I can spin it with allot of force, but im scratching the case :/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Its like the fill ports on the XT45 are 1 mm too close to the fan, so it hits something, I can spin it with allot of force, but im scratching the case :/


Ouch, sounds like a tight squeeze there. Got a pic?


----------



## PedroC1999

Not ATM, but If I add you on Skype, I can get one in 2 mins


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Not ATM, but If I add you on Skype, I can get one in 2 mins


No skype for me, I can't remember my log in










Its the lone plug at the end of the rad?


----------



## PedroC1999

No, the top plug on my top rad hits the roof of the case (Ie under the fans) so I can just about turn it. but the case seizes it after about a 1/3 of a turn


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I had a similar problem with the rad mounts in my pedestal (thought my top mounted rad is completely open). Get your Dremel warmed up!









I cut away much more than necessary... but didn't want to mess with doing a smaller precise area and there's still plenty of material for support. I think your's wouldn't need so much. Of course, my overlap was much more than 1mm as well.









Before:

After:


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Alphacool's Rads are are copper all the way around. Fins, tanks, channels, etc. the only brass is the threaded inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, hence "copper/brass". Discussing 200mm rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Antec one is aluminum.
Click to expand...

LOL what?
I saw (and was responding to) this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by wermad
> 
> You're right, overlooked that
> 
> Looks like Phobya makes the *only* copper/brass rad (?).....


1) Not the only (rad)
2) I pointed out that the brass in the Alphacool is the threaded inserts as some have brass tanks.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> LOL what?
> I saw (and was responding to) this:
> 1) Not the only
> 2) I pointed out that the brass in the Alphacool is the threaded inserts as some have brass tanks.


Plus (assuming it's the Phyobia G-Changer we're talking about) isn't that basically a UT60 with brass tanks? I thought I read somewhere that alphacool was the OEM (or at least designer) of the Phyobia G-Changer. I could be, and probably am, wrong on that... dunno.


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone seen Switch 810 builds with tubing smaller than 19/13?

Now that I'm considering changing all my fittings to Bitspower shiny silver, I am thinking of going to smaller tubing, maybe 19/13 was too big, but I'd love seen comparisons on the same case I use.









I was thinking of either 16/10 (Or 16/13, not sure which one is standard on 16?) or 13/10mm.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Anyone seen Switch 810 builds with tubing smaller than 19/13?
> 
> Now that I'm considering changing all my fittings to Bitspower shiny silver, I am thinking of going to smaller tubing, maybe 19/13 was too big, but I'd love seen comparisons on the same case I use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of either 16/10 (Or 16/13, not sure which one is standard on 16?) or 13/10mm.


Im using 13/10 and can use the cable management to pass tubes through, so I recommend it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> LOL what?
> I saw (and was responding to) this:
> 1) Not the only (rad)
> 2) I pointed out that the brass in the Alphacool is the threaded inserts as some have brass tanks.


You're still missing the point about discussing 200mm radiators. I lol when ppl just jump into a discussion and go somewhere else with the topic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Plus (assuming it's the Phyobia G-Changer we're talking about) isn't that basically a UT60 with brass tanks? I thought I read somewhere that alphacool was the OEM (or at least designer) of the Phyobia G-Changer. I could be, and probably am, wrong on that... dunno.


This.

They do have pretty similar products so I'm guessing they both get their stuff from the same oem. Though they do offer a few different items.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> No, the top plug on my top rad hits the roof of the case (Ie under the fans) so I can just about turn it. but the case seizes it after about a 1/3 of a turn
> 
> 
> 
> I had a similar problem with the rad mounts in my pedestal (thought my top mounted rad is completely open). Get your Dremel warmed up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut away much more than necessary... but didn't want to mess with doing a smaller precise area and there's still plenty of material for support. I think your's wouldn't need so much. Of course, my overlap was much more than 1mm as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> After:
Click to expand...

Monsta rads have the extra ports on both sides so if your Alphacool rad sits flat on a surface w/out fans, these plugs will interfere a bit. So time to start hacking away









You do have quite a bit of space inside the rad for the threads to go through. I used 6mm M3 screws and they grabbed on my 900D.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> LOL what?
> I saw (and was responding to) this:
> 1) Not the only (rad)
> 2) I pointed out that the brass in the Alphacool is the threaded inserts as some have brass tanks.


the only 200mm rad that is copper/brass. now its cleared up after 6 or so posts.
lets see how much i can accomplish on assembly of my rig today.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Im using 13/10 and can use the cable management to pass tubes through, so I recommend it.


I don't want to use the tray behind motherboard for tubing, I just want smaller tubing, that's all, my loop will be the same as it is now.


----------



## PedroC1999

The tubing lets a good amount of water in, and it doesn't kink much, but a bit thicker tubing would definitely stand out better in a case as big as a 810


----------



## Trolle BE

going to install my loop tommorow
gotta admit im nervous. hehe


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Forgot if i have put this up or not....



Need to do a bit of tweaking to get the lines right still.

And im now in the lead for Bittech MOTM!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Forgot if i have put this up or not....
> 
> 
> 
> Need to do a bit of tweaking to get the lines right still.
> 
> And im now in the lead for Bittech MOTM!


You really don't have any _real_ competition (IMO at least) so I think you should be a shoe-in for the win!


----------



## mattcube64

Cross-posting this, by the way, just to give people a heads up. I was enthralled by acrylic - but there's just not enough exactness to the craft, yet. Obviously, lots of people are having success, and I'm super happy for them. But as a college-educated, decently smart fellow with luckily enough money to not have to cheap out on anything - I've run into more frustration at this point than it's worth. So, if you find yourself interested in acrylic - I say go for it - I know I would have, even hearing my own story I'm about to share. But just please be aware it can be a time consuming, costly, and very frustrating process...

***

Welp, ~$500 in, and I officially give up on an acrylic system









Hopefully I can maybe recoup some of my cost by reselling the fittings - but man, 14 Primochill fittings and two sets of tube, 14 e22 fittings and five acrylic tubes, lots of sandpaper, a hobby saw, a heat gun, a bending tool lots of shipping costs, and countless items to fit inside the tube; and we're looking at about half a grand wasted. Boy am I frustrated.

I got the 8mm red silicone cord from Australia yesterday, and I was THRILLED to finally get going. A bit too thick. So I olive oil it up... still too thick. So I run to the store today and buy some medium and fine grit sandpaper. I sand it down, then clean it up with the fine paper, then rinse, then dry, then try. Just a tiny, TINY bit each time... unfortunately, after 90 minutes, it still doesn't fit. I I try going back and forth between two sets of e22 tube, knowing there might be slight differences in ID. So I run to the store, and buy some coarse and extra coarse paper... another hour, and it still won't fit. So, out of pure curiosity, I grab a third e22 tube... and now my silicone is WAY too small. It basically falls in :-/ I expected a slight difference, but at this point, my frustration has boiled over. I'm tired of getting my hopes up. I've been patient, I've spent the money, and I've scoured the net for every piece of instruction I can find.

At this point, it's time to cut my losses. It sucks - a several thousand dollar build won't achieve my vision. But fun is slowly turning to anger. It's life - of course - it's the most 1st World White Person Problem I could ever have - of course. I recognize it's not a huge deal, and I'll get over it, certainly. But boy do I feel a bit defeated









The damage I did in my kitchen:



***

SO!! With all that said.... what's the absolute best tube to buy nowadays? I want no kinks - no issues whatsoever. I want simple and sexy. Recommendations?

Also - I guess I'll be getting the Monsoon fittings I originally wanted back in the day, lol.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> No, the top plug on my top rad hits the roof of the case (Ie under the fans) so I can just about turn it. but the case seizes it after about a 1/3 of a turn


It was like that with my Phobya Xtreme 200 so I "modified" the plastic blanking plugs by cutting off the top 2-3 mm (the bit which projects when it is screwed in) thus converting them into "grub screws" then I Araldited them into position thus sealing the holes. If I ever needed to remove them I would simply cut them out.
It gave me enough clearance to install the rad without any force.


----------



## PedroC1999

I will need to just file it down, thats how close it is


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Forgot if i have put this up or not....
> 
> 
> 
> Need to do a bit of tweaking to get the lines right still.
> 
> And im now in the lead for Bittech MOTM!


I await a Steampunk build....


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know the XSPC rep really well,they have sponsored my last 3 builds with various bits.


How exactly does one become sponsored? Is it just who you know?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Looks like Phobya makes the only copper/brass rad (?).....


And I laugh when people do selective editing.
the above was a stand alone statement, and I responded in an attempt to be helpful.

Perhaps it should have read " Looks like Phobya makes the only copper/brass 200mm rad (?)"
knowing that it's a public forum and people enter into at different times. (especially those at least attempting to help)


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> How exactly does one become sponsored? Is it just who you know?


i've also wondered the samething


----------



## skyn3t

this is what I got so done far this is all the tubing you going to see







, as soon I pout the pump and res you going to see anoyher 2" 1/2 tubing for inlet and another 3" outlet. I'm sleeving the pump wires and moles and sata.


----------



## phillyd

You email companies, saying what you want, what you'll do with it, and why you deserve it. Then some companies say yes and most say no. It's best to email marketing and sales.Departments. Include lots of links of your previous work and have something special planned for what they give you.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Same way race teams get sponsored, or anything else for that matter...

Some get really lucky - but basically have a portfolio of evidence that you understand how to attract positive attention and market your own abilities (thus marketing their products in turn) and that you aren't just looking for a handout - i.e. that you can bring them eyeballs (and wallets) that they otherwise would have trouble attracting.

If you've done a few builds, and you have a detailed concept for a future or current one - draw up something and email it to the marketing heads of each company. It might not garner any responses... or you might get more than one sponsor. But in most cases - you do have to prove that you bring something to the table that they don't already have.

Either you win races, modding/building contests, car shows, etc...

or if you know someone in the industry, it might help you skip one or two steps.. but it won't do everything for you.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know the XSPC rep really well,they have sponsored my last 3 builds with various bits.
> 
> 
> 
> How exactly does one become sponsored? Is it just who you know?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> How exactly does one become sponsored? Is it just who you know?
> 
> 
> 
> i've also wondered the samething
Click to expand...

Produce good quality builds,get a few under your belt then approach your chosen manu.
Dont expect anything and show that you are willing to put your money where you mouth is and actually buy their products first.

Hard work is key.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

For those that run Clear Tube, do you get any fading? I have been using them for 3 times now and after ~ 2 weeks they lose the clarity. They start turning yellowish. I have tried different makes of Tube and use Distilled water only.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> For those that run Clear Tube, do you get any fading? I have been using them for 3 times now and after ~ 2 weeks they lose the clarity. They start turning yellowish. I have tried different makes of Tube and use Distilled water only.


Big thread on plasticizer leeching - which could be part of it... some is just the nature of the beast... and some might be something else. Do you run anything else in your loop? If you don't use _any_ form of biocide you could be growing something in there (although that would show in reservoir too usually).

Have you tried the Primochill Advanced LRT? I think people were having good luck with it in clear (although there were some problems too IIRC). I think others have had good luck with Duralene but I haven't personally tried it.


----------



## ginger_nuts

How well do Magicool radiators perform?

Their 3x140mm rads. to be precise.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> How well do Magicool radiators perform?
> 
> Their 3x140mm rads. to be precise.


Most radiators these days are actually made by Magicool. But you'd need to be specific on what model of radiator.


----------



## ginger_nuts

http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/magicool-slim-420-triple-radiator/

This is the one I am asking about. Not to sure about model!!!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> How exactly does one become sponsored? Is it just who you know?
> 
> 
> 
> i've also wondered the samething
Click to expand...

To get sponsors, you need sponsors.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> For those that run Clear Tube, do you get any fading? I have been using them for 3 times now and after ~ 2 weeks they lose the clarity. They start turning yellowish. I have tried different makes of Tube and use Distilled water only.


My Durelene crapped out in around a month. I will say it was the best tube I've worked with. Soft enough and slightly smaller for the od to screw on the cap/ring with very little effort. I had some LRT which is now turning. I now have some Advance and straight away its stiff as heck. But, a lot of folks are saying the Advance is probably the best clear tube right now that doesn't turn.


----------



## Nikola-Tesla

What is it?


----------



## ridgey1112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikola-Tesla*
> 
> What is it?


Similar to this with some 90 fittings on each end, I'm pretty sure
Alphacool Connection Terminal 5 Way
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Alphacool+Connection+Terminal+5+Way&rlz=1C1GIGM_enAU512AU512&oq=Alphacool+Connection+Terminal+5+Way&aqs=chrome.0.57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


----------



## Nikola-Tesla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> Similar to this with some 90 fittings on each end, I'm pretty sure
> Alphacool Connection Terminal 5 Way
> https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Alphacool+Connection+Terminal+5+Way&rlz=1C1GIGM_enAU512AU512&oq=Alphacool+Connection+Terminal+5+Way&aqs=chrome.0.57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


Thanks. Any thoughts why it's there?


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikola-Tesla*
> 
> Thanks. Any thoughts why it's there?


I think the exact one they're using is this since the rest of the fittings look to be Bitspower, but the concept is the same: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15398/ex-tub-1224/Bitspower_5-Way_G14_Connector_Block_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBMTFMB.html?tl=c499s1607b145

Maybe aesthetics, as it's in a bad place to be a pseud-drain line.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> To get sponsors, you need sponsors.


What does that mean though? How would one acquire sponsors?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> I think the exact one they're using is this since the rest of the fittings look to be Bitspower, but the concept is the same: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15398/ex-tub-1224/Bitspower_5-Way_G14_Connector_Block_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBMTFMB.html?tl=c499s1607b145
> 
> Maybe aesthetics, as it's in a bad place to be a pseud-drain line.


Or maybe it's because you can make it look like a little man if you put fittings in all of the ports.









My guess is the former (aesthetics) although perhaps the idea is to later on add an additional temp/flow/etc. probe in one or both ports for more loop statistics? Dunno really - Probably would have just gone with an extender myself. Maybe he just had it lying around and it was the right length and he wasn't going to use it elsewhere in the build... so why not?


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What does that mean though? How would one acquire sponsors?


Email companies with your reasoning.


----------



## Namkab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Or maybe it's because you can make it look like a little man if you put fittings in all of the ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My guess is the former (aesthetics) although perhaps the idea is to later on add an additional temp/flow/etc. probe in one or both ports for more loop statistics? Dunno really - Probably would have just gone with an extender myself. Maybe he just had it lying around and it was the right length and he wasn't going to use it elsewhere in the build... so why not?


I agree, most likely had the part on hand, it fit, and it works without and drawbacks.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *My Durelene crapped out in around a month*. I will say it was the best tube I've worked with. Soft enough and slightly smaller for the od to screw on the cap/ring with very little effort. I had some LRT which is now turning. I now have some Advance and straight away its stiff as heck. But, a lot of folks are saying the Advance is probably the best clear tube right now that doesn't turn.


You really did something very wrong in your loop I'm sure you did, what did you run gasoline? "I may be sarcasm sorry but in saying gasoline but this is the only thing I can think of. I had tested those tube for months and months and I'm still using it in my wife computer. Pure Distilled water + Biocide and all mixed crapped you can think of .Mike "Mayhems" has sent me in that time most of his products for free just to help him to diagnose what was wrong with that and many others cursing Mayhems products. All the crap thing was caused by flush duty loop and leave crap stuck inside and to make more worse Primochill crap LRT creating cheese cake all over the loop, Plasticize accelerate more when using Silver kill coin in it. For all tube around Durelene is the best tubing to hold up anything you throw at it. You may don't want to go fill hundreds pages back on Plasticize Thread even do I, but you will find many of my test there. also i had done many others test that I never posted before because it ended up with the same results.

Durelene can haze a bit it "cloud" you only able to see it when tube is drie or close to a new tubing other than that is a beauty it does turn yellowish because of the heat any clear tube does and any colored tube loose they color because of the heat. Durelene tubing will never create any duty crap in the blocks or generate plasticizer "cheese cake" that's the word we used to say back in the "Plasticize Thread" a white stuff that grows ridiculous anywhere in the loop.


----------



## szeged

whats your guys take on the tygon 3603 clear tubing? i just ordered some to replace some xspc clear uv blue i was using on a build and was just curious about the quality of them?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> whats your guys take on the tygon 3603 clear tubing? i just ordered some to replace some xspc clear uv blue i was using on a build and was just curious about the quality of them?


R3603 or E3603? The R is terrible stuff, the E is yet to be determined as it is relatively new.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Too bad I like the frosted look better though. If I could have it my way, I'd keep the frost but put them circles away


That could look good too. I do like the frosted blocks they just don't go w/ my current build. Took this tonight.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-15-1.jpg.html


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> R3603 or E3603? The R is terrible stuff, the E is yet to be determined as it is relatively new.


ah sorry didnt know there were two different ones, ill be using the E3603. Shows how much i know about tygon


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> whats your guys take on the tygon 3603 clear tubing? i just ordered some to replace some xspc clear uv blue i was using on a build and was just curious about the quality of them?


thats the worse tubing you going to buy. if you ordered it don't use return it.

start here go back few pages

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/1140

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/830

Here this is the Tygon 3603
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/720#post_17436237


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> thats the worse tubing you going to buy. if you ordered it don't use return it.
> 
> start here go back few pages
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/1140
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/830


is that plasticizer problem discussion for the r3063 or the e3603? i was just informed there are two types i didnt know about. i purchased the e3603.


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> R3603 or E3603? The R is terrible stuff, the E is yet to be determined as it is relatively new.
> That could look good too. I do like the frosted blocks they just don't go w/ my current build. Took this tonight.


Hey uhhh... lowfat.. I think you're (build is) cute.


----------



## skyn3t

Here you want to read more about a trusted guys about Durelene read here Martinm210 from his post forward you will going to see a lot bad things. I'm off for tonight peace


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> is that plasticizer problem discussion for the r3063 or the e3603? i was just informed there are two types i didnt know about. i purchased the e3603.


you want to know a funny thing, Saint Gobain creates Tygon r3603 one of the worse tubing after Primochill LRT and Saint Gobain create Durelene a bit stiff if you ask me. in other hands Tygon r3603 is very flexible like Primochill LRT.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

One of the reasons plasticizer is used is to increase flexibility and reduce kinking. Therefore it makes sense flexible tubing has plasticizer.


----------



## mattcube64

So what's the best clear tubing to buy right now? I'm so confused... Seems like they all kinda suck for one reason or another.

Gonna be using Mayhems pastel white and need to be able to make pretty tight bends.

Thoughts? Thank you!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> So what's the best clear tubing to buy right now? I'm so confused... Seems like they all kinda suck for one reason or another.
> 
> Gonna be using Mayhems pastel white and need to be able to make pretty tight bends.
> 
> Thoughts? Thank you!


Durelene For clear tubing with any colored Mayhems products. I had not used the New Primochill Adv LRT tubing but a lot people seems to like it, also I'm using the new Primochill Adv LRT on my build now I want to see how it going to hold up with Distilled water + Mayhems Biocide.


----------



## stickg1

My first attempt at watercooling. Collected various parts for a few weeks and this what my loop consists of:

Swiftech MCP655-B
Black Ice GTX 240mm rad
XSPC RS240 rad
Bitspower Multi-Z Tank 150mm
XSPC Raystorm 1155 Block
2x Thermalright 120's
2x Corsair AF120 Quiet (I think I need to get too stronger fans here)



Critiques and suggestions welcome, I'm trying to learn!

Also trying to figure out how to get my Maximus V Formula MOFSET block into the mix, but it uses 3/8" fixed barbs and I'm using 1/2" hose. Do they sell a reducer bushing of some sort?


----------



## szeged

add a gpu block so that long bit of tubing in the front doesnt look so out of place(in my opinion,if you like it like that keep it!)

over all looks pretty good







not my first choice of component placement but we all have different tastes.

also, they do sell reducers

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_616&sort=20a&page=1

check there, i dont know which one you want specifically, so just look around.

hope it helps!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm definitely sticking with Durelene. Its cheap and performs really well in my personal experience. Definitely clouds up over time but not bad at all...


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> Similar to this with some 90 fittings on each end, I'm pretty sure
> Alphacool Connection Terminal 5 Way
> https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Alphacool+Connection+Terminal+5+Way&rlz=1C1GIGM_enAU512AU512&oq=Alphacool+Connection+Terminal+5+Way&aqs=chrome.0.57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


Can't you see tve bitspower logo on the side of it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You really did something very wrong in your loop I'm sure you did, what did you run gasoline? "I may be sarcasm sorry but in saying gasoline but this is the only thing I can think of. I had tested those tube for months and months and I'm still using it in my wife computer. Pure Distilled water + Biocide and all mixed crapped you can think of .Mike "Mayhems" has sent me in that time most of his products for free just to help him to diagnose what was wrong with that and many others cursing Mayhems products. All the crap thing was caused by flush duty loop and leave crap stuck inside and to make more worse Primochill crap LRT creating cheese cake all over the loop, Plasticize accelerate more when using Silver kill coin in it. For all tube around Durelene is the best tubing to hold up anything you throw at it. You may don't want to go fill hundreds pages back on Plasticize Thread even do I, but you will find many of my test there. also i had done many others test that I never posted before because it ended up with the same results.
> 
> Durelene can haze a bit it "cloud" you only able to see it when tube is drie or close to a new tubing other than that is a beauty it does turn yellowish because of the heat any clear tube does and any colored tube loose they color because of the heat. Durelene tubing will never create any duty crap in the blocks or generate plasticizer "cheese cake" that's the word we used to say back in the "Plasticize Thread" a white stuff that grows ridiculous anywhere in the loop.


Plain old distilled







I've had this discussion quite a bit in the Plasticize thread. I actually had a brand new piece and used it in the interim. It started clouding. So unless Walmart is adding "gasoline" to their distilled water, its like the other reports and other brands, it goes too.

Btw, I've been doing wc for a while so I know I'm doing things "right". If you check my Mayhems Vs Feser thread, I had clear primochill (2011) and back then it held beautifully like many others. Enter 2012, and we have an explosion of plasticizing







.

I'm not using any biocide. After the Nickel Gate scandal, I've stopped using silver coils (only biocide I've used) and refrained from using anything else.

edit:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1142513/mayhems-uv-green-dye-vs-feser-one-uv-green-56k-warning-added-additional-mayhems-colors-dyes

http://img708.imageshack.us/i/dscn3250mt.jpg/


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> So what's the best clear tubing to buy right now? I'm so confused... Seems like they all kinda suck for one reason or another.
> 
> Gonna be using Mayhems pastel white and need to be able to make pretty tight bends.
> 
> Thoughts? Thank you!


I like the Advanced LRT. It's very stiff and doesn't kink at all in really tight bends compared to softer tubing or the Pro tubing it replaced which is great but does make putting the loop together a little more tricky because of course tightening fittings is harder. Mine hasn't gone cloudy at all, has a very slight yellow/green stain to it from the coolant but I'm happy to settle for that compared to the plasticiser problems I had with the Pro. The inside of my tubing was lined with a milimeter thick green milk like substance when I realised my Pro tubing had gone to hell, wasn't pretty

I did have to use some XSPC tubing for a few bends because I ran out of Advanced LRT and although it's a softer more cloudy looking tubing (which im not a fan of) it held up well and didn't have any problems. Can't vouch for its long term durability though and will be replacing it with Advanced LRT now my local is back in stock.

Hoping when I get my loop up and rubbing again with Mayhems Oil Black coolant that it doesn't stain the tubing too bad but I think it'll be fine.


----------



## ElGreco

Hi there,

I am about (finally) to do my BiAnnual maintenance to my loop and would like to ask the following:

a. Should I disconnect also the little motherboard battery during the works in progress in my build?
b. I saw that IT-Diva uses in her (marvellous) kit of reservoirs, Koolance flowmeters in vertical orientation. I believe i read somewhere that horizontal orientation of this flowmeter (which i also have) provides more accurate readings. Do you know anything about this?

Thanks!
(Keep the pictures comming







)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> I like the Advanced LRT. It's very stiff and doesn't kink at all in really tight bends compared to softer tubing or the Pro tubing it replaced which is great but does make putting the loop together a little more tricky because of course tightening fittings is harder. Mine hasn't gone cloudy at all, has a very slight yellow/green stain to it from the coolant but I'm happy to settle for that compared to the plasticiser problems I had with the Pro. The inside of my tubing was lined with a milimeter thick green milk like substance when I realised my Pro tubing had gone to hell, wasn't pretty
> 
> I did have to use some XSPC tubing for a few bends because I ran out of Advanced LRT and although it's a softer more cloudy looking tubing (which im not a fan of) it held up well and didn't have any problems. Can't vouch for its long term durability though and will be replacing it with Advanced LRT now my local is back in stock.
> 
> Hoping when I get my loop up and rubbing again with Mayhems Oil Black coolant that it doesn't stain the tubing too bad but I think it'll be fine.


I have to add my vote for Advance is the best clear option right now based on the opinions of users in the Plasticize thread.

Waiting on one last item. What a pain to wait several days knowing I'm almost so, so close.........


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> I am about (finally) to do my BiAnnual maintenance to my loop and would like to ask the following:
> 
> a. Should I disconnect also the little motherboard battery during the works in progress in my build?
> 
> Thanks!
> (Keep the pictures comming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Disco the power cord to your psu; push and hold your power button for ~10-15 seconds. If you take off the mb's battery, it will reset your bios to factory settings (you'll loose your oc settings). Best advise is to try and drain the loop as best as possible. I end up forcing out liquid by blowing through one end of the loop and catching as much as possible in a container.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Hoping when I get my loop up and rubbing again with Mayhems Oil Black coolant that it doesn't stain the tubing too bad but I think it'll be fine.


I found the Oil Black to be a little too transluscent for my liking. It almost looked like Ribena when held up against light.

I therefore picked Pastel Black which really is, well, black.









It hasn't stained the tubing in my loop yet, but then again, I've only had it in for about three weeks now.

Just out of curiosity, what made you choose Oil Black instead of Pastel Black?

This is what pastel black looks like with Advanced LRT


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I found the Oil Black to be a little too transluscent for my liking. It almost looked like Ribena when held up against light.
> 
> I therefore picked Pastel Black which really is, well, black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It hasn't stained the tubing in my loop yet, but then again, I've only had it in for about three weeks now.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what made you choose Oil Black instead of Pastel Black?
> 
> This is what pastel black looks like with Advanced LRT


Thanks for the picture and the information, appreciate it. It's hard to find people using the black.

I originally wanted to go with the Oil Black because I assumed it would be less likly to stain my blocks and tubing than the Pastel Black and here in Asurtalia for the same price you get double the amount of the Oil Black.

If you reckon it won't stain the loop I might get that if its instock instead.

Do you have any pictures of the Oil Black?


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the picture and the information, appreciate it. It's hard to find people using the black.
> 
> I originally wanted to go with the Oil Black because I assumed it would be less likly to stain my blocks and tubing than the Pastel Black and here in Asurtalia for the same price you get double the amount of the Oil Black.
> 
> If you reckon it won't stain the loop I might get that if its instock instead.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any pictures of the Oil Black?


I am at work right now, but I can take some later when I get home and stack them side by side if you like.

Come to think of it, the oil black was a bit cheaper for me too. I bought the concentrate bottles though, and mixed myself with distilled.

I can't guarantee that it won't stain your loop, but so far so good for me at least!

Will post photos later today


----------



## RemagCP

Took my forever to get my comp. fittings on the Primochill Adv. LRT tubing, and scratched the crap out of them and my Raystorm turning them with pliers.

I am not a smart man.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The oil black pastel turns to chocolate milk,there are a few documented cases of this and,contrary to what Mick tells you,its not acid leech.
One the users is well versed in WC and flushed/neutralised correctly.

One to avoid.


----------



## kcuestag

What's this theory of silver kill coils ruining nickel plated blocks? I have uses a silver kill coil for the last 12 months or so and never had an issue, should I be worried?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The oil black pastel turns to chocolate milk,there are a few documented cases of this and,contrary to what Mick tells you,its not acid leech.
> One the users is well versed in WC and flushed/neutralised correctly.
> 
> One to avoid.


The pastel pure black or the uv oil black?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The oil black pastel turns to chocolate milk,there are a few documented cases of this and,contrary to what Mick tells you,its not acid leech.
> One the users is well versed in WC and flushed/neutralised correctly.
> 
> One to avoid.
> 
> 
> 
> The pastel pure black or the uv oil black?
Click to expand...

Pastel black.

Black tube would be a vastly superior option.
Especially so as black tube doesnt have any of the issues that clear tube has.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pastel black.
> 
> Black tube would be a vastly superior option.
> Especially so as black tube doesnt have any of the issues that clear tube has.


I've considered that and running clear coolant would be a lot easier but how much harder is filling and draining a loop when you can't see the coolant?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pastel black.
> 
> Black tube would be a vastly superior option.
> Especially so as black tube doesnt have any of the issues that clear tube has.
> 
> 
> 
> I've considered that and running clear coolant would be a lot easier but how much harder is filling and draining a loop when you can't see the coolant?
Click to expand...

No difference at all,I cant see the coolant in any of the last 4 loops i have built and i have had no issues.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Plain old distilled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had this discussion quite a bit in the Plasticize thread. I actually had a brand new piece and used it in the interim. It started clouding. So unless Walmart is adding "gasoline" to their distilled water, its like the other reports and other brands, it goes too.
> 
> Btw, I've been doing wc for a while so I know I'm doing things "right". If you check my Mayhems Vs Feser thread, I had clear primochill (2011) and back then it held beautifully like many others. Enter 2012, and we have an explosion of plasticizing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'm not using any biocide. After the Nickel Gate scandal, I've stopped using silver coils (only biocide I've used) and refrained from using anything else.
> 
> edit:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1142513/mayhems-uv-green-dye-vs-feser-one-uv-green-56k-warning-added-additional-mayhems-colors-dyes
> 
> http://img708.imageshack.us/i/dscn3250mt.jpg/


just don't risk drink that water from walmart it may have it LOL. by the way I do have to agree with you on the 2011 Primochill bath they did had a good tubing in the past but like you said after 2012 they messed up so bad.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have to add my vote for Advance is the best clear option right now based on the opinions of users in the Plasticize thread.
> 
> Waiting on one last item. What a pain to wait several days knowing I'm almost so, so close.........


Can I have one of you rad ? Why you haveto show us all the goodies ;-) I want one. By the way how you going to fit so many rad in that case? Are you going to change the rads or mod a bit more with a big rad **** you showing in the pics.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What's this theory of silver kill coils ruining nickel plated blocks? I have uses a silver kill coil for the last 12 months or so and never had an issue, should I be worried?


Well it has been proved the killcoil with plate won't mix so good also it does accelerate the plasticize in the loop. Many people don't have this issue but many more had a disaster in the past and still. So avoiding killcoil you will have much more chance in nit have any issue. Just give a try on biocide. But if you don't have any issue just keep that way but keep eye on it when you change the hardware.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have to add my vote for Advance is the best clear option right now based on the opinions of users in the Plasticize thread.
> 
> Waiting on one last item. What a pain to wait several days knowing I'm almost so, so close.........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I have one of you rad ? Why you haveto show us all the goodies ;-) I want one. By the way how you going to fit so many rad in that case? Are you going to change the rads or mod a bit more with a big rad **** you showing in the pics.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What's this theory of silver kill coils ruining nickel plated blocks? I have uses a silver kill coil for the last 12 months or so and never had an issue, should I be worried?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Well it has been proved the killcoil with plate won't mix* so good also it does accelerate the plasticize in the loop. Many people don't have this issue but many more had a disaster in the past and still. So avoiding killcoil you will have much more chance in nit have any issue. Just give a try on biocide. But if you don't have any issue just keep that way but keep eye on it when you change the hardware.
Click to expand...

Not true.

I have had silver coils in nickel plated loops before with zero issues,the cause was poor plating prep.



Note that Gold is much lower than silver or solder components but that hasnt stopped EK and others gold plating blocks. Or that Stainless parts are widely used as jet plates.
The blaming of silver was just a smokescreen.

Also,solder used in rads is more reactive.

As for accelerating plasticizer leech,I can think of no mechanism of a silver coil affecting this in any way.

Basically,Proof?


----------



## kingchris

More rads needed WERMAD









hi guys, what do you think of this idea.
 

all fitted into a PS07 case


----------



## stickg1

My res is pretty much filled with tiny microscopic bubbles. Is this normal? I use the bitspower Z tank, output and intake are both on the bottom.


----------



## Red1776

I have also read that Copper, Silver, and nickel have very little reactivity with each other (electron transfer) as they are all transitional metals. b) close to each other (atomic weight). So in other words they do not create a destructive environment when used together trying to neutralize their differences in electrons. ( at least they are close enough where for practical purposes (say in our water loops) that they are close enough that a silver coil in a system would be very slow and negligible in a practical application.
Aluminum on the other hand, is not a transitional metal and has a lower atomic number (lower number of protons and electrons) and creates an environment of much more active ionization when put in the same environment with transitional metals that are closer in atomic weight/proton/electron count, pulls electrons from the other metals IE damages them.

Transitional metals/Abbr/Atomic weight

* Silver 'Ag' 47 Transitional Metal
*Copper 'Cu' 29 Transitional Metal
*Nickel 'Ni' 28 Transitional Metal

Non-Transitional metal/ABBR/ Atomic Weight

* Aluminum 'Al' 13 Non-Transitional Metal

just doing some reading about it quite a long time ago about non compatible metals 'eating/corroding/ ionizing or otherwise breaking each other down. Has anyone else read this?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I found the Oil Black to be a little too transluscent for my liking. It almost looked like Ribena when held up against light.
> 
> I therefore picked Pastel Black which really is, well, black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It hasn't stained the tubing in my loop yet, but then again, I've only had it in for about three weeks now.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what made you choose Oil Black instead of Pastel Black?
> 
> This is what pastel black looks like with Advanced LRT
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That pastel looks really good. Might have to use it in my next build.


----------



## Gleniu

3 rads inside Corsair 540...









Does it look like an overkill? - that was my intention









OK, full mock up ready - now I can get to work on panels to secure those babies.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> 3 rads inside Corsair 540...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does is look like an overkill? - that was my intention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, full mock up ready - now I can get to work on panels to secure those babies.


This looks fantastic.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I have also read that Copper, Silver, and nickel have very little reactivity with each other (electron transfer) as they are all transitional metals. b) close to each other (atomic weight). So in other words they do not create a destructive environment when used together trying to neutralize their differences in electrons. ( at least they are close enough where for practical purposes (say in our water loops) that they are close enough that a silver coil in a system would be very slow and negligible in a practical application.
> Aluminum on the other hand, is not a transitional metal and has a lower atomic number (lower number of protons and electrons) and creates an environment of much more active ionization when put in the same environment with transitional metals that are closer in atomic weight/proton/electron count, pulls electrons from the other metals IE damages them.
> 
> Transitional metals/Abbr/Atomic weight
> 
> * Silver 'Ag' 47 Transitional Metal
> *Copper 'Cu' 29 Transitional Metal
> *Nickel 'Ni' 28 Transitional Metal
> 
> Non-Transitional metal/ABBR/ Atomic Weight
> 
> * Aluminum 'Al' 13 Non-Transitional Metal
> 
> just doing some reading about it quite a long time ago about non compatible metals 'eating/corroding/ ionizing or otherwise breaking each other down. Has anyone else read this?


In theory what you just wrote is right. Now explain it in practice. Things are easy to say but is hard to do. I mean anything. ;-)


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> 3 rads inside Corsair 540...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does is look like an overkill? - that was my intention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, full mock up ready - now I can get to work on panels to secure those babies.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures


Where does the power supply go?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> just don't risk drink that water from walmart it may have it LOL. by the way I do have to agree with you on the 2011 Primochill bath they did had a good tubing in the past but like you said after 2012 they messed up so bad.


I'll see how the Advance green turns out. I just picked up a FrozenQ helix res for cheap, so I still wanna stick with distilled for now. From what I can tell, something changed maybe for the industry. Many brands that were safe just started giving out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Can I have one of you rad ? Why you haveto show us all the goodies ;-) I want one. By the way how you going to fit so many rad in that case? Are you going to change the rads or mod a bit more with a big rad **** you showing in the pics.
> Well it has been proved the killcoil with plate won't mix so good also it does accelerate the plasticize in the loop. Many people don't have this issue but many more had a disaster in the past and still. So avoiding killcoil you will have much more chance in nit have any issue. Just give a try on biocide. But if you don't have any issue just keep that way but keep eye on it when you change the hardware.


EK and Koolance seem to be the "affected" parties. I have an entire thread for this thing that started for me in 2010. I'm running copper so i don't have any major concerns. But, the DD M6 is nickel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.
> 
> I have had silver coils in nickel plated loops before with zero issues,the cause was poor plating prep.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that Gold is much lower than silver or solder components but that hasnt stopped EK and others gold plating blocks. Or that Stainless parts are widely used as jet plates.
> The blaming of silver was just a smokescreen.
> 
> Also,solder used in rads is more reactive.
> 
> As for accelerating plasticizer leech,I can think of no mechanism of a silver coil affecting this in any way.
> 
> Basically,Proof?


Well, I might consider it but I have not see any growth in my 3.5 years of water cooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> More rads needed WERMAD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hi guys, what do you think of this idea.
> 
> 
> all fitted into a PS07 case


Monsta....nuff said








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> 3 rads inside Corsair 540...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does is look like an overkill? - that was my intention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, full mock up ready - now I can get to work on panels to secure those babies.


I like this very much







. These Corsair fans are really sharp looking


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Where does the power supply go?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


In the back compartment, the same with pump, res, HDD and 2 SSD's - it is a new wide case - check my sig for build log and more pics


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Where does the power supply go?
> 
> Jeffinslaw




Its a sweet "small" case.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> In the back compartment, the same with pump, res, HDD and 2 SSD's - it is a new wide case - check my sig for build log and more pics


Ahhh very interesting! Will have to check out your build log!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Its a sweet "small" case.


Ah! I see! Very interesting.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'll see how the Advance green turns out. I just picked up a FrozenQ helix res for cheap, so I still wanna stick with distilled for now. From what I can tell, something changed maybe for the industry. Many brands that were safe just started giving out.
> EK and Koolance seem to be the "affected" parties. I have an entire thread for this thing that started for me in 2010. I'm running copper so i don't have any major concerns. But, the DD M6 is nickel.
> Well, I might consider it but I have not see any growth in my 3.5 years of water cooling.
> Monsta....nuff said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These Corsair fans are really sharp looking


You got it right buddy they did change but they never going to admit it. Because if they do you know what is going to happen. Big mess huge mess.

By the way let's keep this tubing test update so we can compare it together. Peace B-)


----------



## crazymofo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> You really did something very wrong in your loop I'm sure you did, what did you run gasoline? "I may be sarcasm sorry but in saying gasoline but this is the only thing I can think of. I had tested those tube for months and months and I'm still using it in my wife computer. Pure Distilled water + Biocide and all mixed crapped you can think of .Mike "Mayhems" has sent me in that time most of his products for free just to help him to diagnose what was wrong with that and many others cursing Mayhems products. All the crap thing was caused by flush duty loop and leave crap stuck inside and to make more worse Primochill crap LRT creating cheese cake all over the loop, Plasticize accelerate more when using Silver kill coin in it. For all tube around Durelene is the best tubing to hold up anything you throw at it. You may don't want to go fill hundreds pages back on Plasticize Thread even do I, but you will find many of my test there. also i had done many others test that I never posted before because it ended up with the same results.
> 
> Durelene can haze a bit it "cloud" you only able to see it when tube is drie or close to a new tubing other than that is a beauty it does turn yellowish because of the heat any clear tube does and any colored tube loose they color because of the heat. Durelene tubing will never create any duty crap in the blocks or generate plasticizer "cheese cake" that's the word we used to say back in the "Plasticize Thread" a white stuff that grows ridiculous anywhere in the loop.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1380775/what-is-plasticizer


----------



## noles1983

Got around to taking a pic of my Haswell beast.


----------



## Shogon

Pastel black looks beautiful, can't wait for it to get here! Replacing the yellow, and actually paint some stuff ( backplates, grills on mo-ra3, maybe fans) yellow to offset it.


----------



## TampaChaz

More delays in getting my rough cut backplates delivered.......GRRRRRR!








I want to lay on the floor and kick and scream, but I think my agents here at work might look upon this as something to reference the next time I get on them for not being more patient and taking their time to do it right the first time .... Oh well, practice what you preach, right?


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Disco the power cord to your psu; push and hold your power button for ~10-15 seconds. If you take off the mb's battery, it will reset your bios to factory settings (you'll loose your oc settings). Best advise is to try and drain the loop as best as possible. I end up forcing out liquid by blowing through one end of the loop and catching as much as possible in a container.


Thanks for the guidelines... so motherboard battery stays ON!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.
> 
> I have had silver coils in nickel plated loops before with zero issues,the cause was poor plating prep.
> 
> ...
> 
> Note that Gold is much lower than silver or solder components but that hasnt stopped EK and others gold plating blocks. Or that Stainless parts are widely used as jet plates.
> The blaming of silver was just a smokescreen.
> 
> Also,solder used in rads is more reactive.
> 
> As for accelerating plasticizer leech,I can think of no mechanism of a silver coil affecting this in any way.
> 
> Basically,Proof?


B-Neg, my experience is zero compared to yours, but please allow me to say that Silver KillCoil with Bitspower nickel plated fittings and nickel koolance cpu-370 block was a DISASTER for me! I did not use any anticorrosive just Mayhems ultra pure water with Silver killcoil and I "payed" it quite expensive!









http://www.overclock.net/t/1297422/koolance-cpu-370-and-bitspower-corrosion-solution

2 hours ago I reopened for maintenance my loop, after 8! months of using just Mayhems X1 (NO SILVER KILLCOIL) and was so happy to see that everything was almost crystal clear.









For me Silver and Nickel is a NO GO... premix is the solution!









Now, regarding placticiser, these last 8 months i used SAME Primochil LRT PRO tubes that i had cleaned thoroughly after the forementioned disaster last time (due to lots of placticiser leeching all over the place).

Guess what... now I found ZERO pacticiser in my reused (recleaned) tubes. I think that silver combination with the primchill LRT PRO could also play a role in plactisizer issues. I still have not opened the external part of my loop that connects the MORA3 with the inner part, where i used an old batch Primochill LRT PRO tube for first time (not reclened). if i see any pacticiser traces there, will let you know...


----------



## Sumner Rol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> 3 rads inside Corsair 540...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it look like an overkill? - that was my intention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, full mock up ready - now I can get to work on panels to secure those babies.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What is this "overkill" you speak of?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Disco the power cord to your psu; push and hold your power button for ~10-15 seconds. If you take off the mb's battery, it will reset your bios to factory settings (you'll loose your oc settings). Best advise is to try and drain the loop as best as possible. I end up forcing out liquid by blowing through one end of the loop and catching as much as possible in a container.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the guidelines... so motherboard battery stays ON!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.
> 
> I have had silver coils in nickel plated loops before with zero issues,the cause was poor plating prep.
> 
> ...
> 
> Note that Gold is much lower than silver or solder components but that hasnt stopped EK and others gold plating blocks. Or that Stainless parts are widely used as jet plates.
> The blaming of silver was just a smokescreen.
> 
> Also,solder used in rads is more reactive.
> 
> As for accelerating plasticizer leech,I can think of no mechanism of a silver coil affecting this in any way.
> 
> Basically,Proof?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> B-Neg, my experience is zero compared to yours, but please allow me to say that Silver KillCoil with Bitspower nickel plated fittings and nickel koolance cpu-370 block was a DISASTER for me! I did not use any anticorrosive just Mayhems ultra pure water with Silver killcoil and I "payed" it quite expensive!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1297422/koolance-cpu-370-and-bitspower-corrosion-solution
> 
> 2 hours ago I reopened for maintenance my loop, after 8! months of using just Mayhems X1 (NO SILVER KILLCOIL) and was so happy to see that everything was almost crystal clear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me Silver and Nickel is a NO GO... premix is the solution!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, regarding placticiser, these last 8 months i used SAME Primochil LRT PRO tubes that i had cleaned thoroughly after the forementioned disaster last time (due to lots of placticiser leeching all over the place).
> 
> Guess what... now I found ZERO pacticiser in my reused (recleaned) tubes. I think that silver combination with the primchill LRT PRO could also play a role in plactisizer issues. I still have not opened the external part of my loop that connects the MORA3 with the inner part, where i used an old batch Primochill LRT PRO tube for first time (not reclened). if i see any pacticiser traces there, will let you know...
Click to expand...

The reused tube had already leeched,there is a finite amount so im not surprised it didnt come back.

At the end of the day,its poor quality plating,Watercool,Aquacomputer,XSPC....they seem to get it right just fine. Koolance are not exempt from the poor quality list

This is what happens when the plating is poor


And here is a block that had no silver
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirectOverkill*
> 
> I did not want to be cry baby before this, but I waited for some time after seeing this http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1030201-distilled-silver-coil-gunk.html so I could post my observations (and yes it is copper / corrosion showing).
> 
> So here is my block with distilled water and PT NUKE copper < 2 months of use
> 
> I have been following this issue close enough from day one since I had (by coincidence) found corrosion on KL VID-NX580 block and I can tell this is not ek isolated problem.
> There have been many reports and complaints over other brands on more forums then this one.
> Even self proclaimed best plater in business has recently stopped doing plating, with excuse he cannot provide reasonable delivery, which is utter pr turd. His blocks are failling too--check xs forum.
> 
> Bottom line is--> do not use certain liquids, maintain your circuit frequently and go by the book. If something by sheer luck works for someone it does not mean it will work for the rest.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sumner Rol*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> What is this "overkill" you speak of?


You know, I was wondering the same thing.


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The reused tube had already leeched,there is a finite amount so im not surprised it didnt come back.
> 
> ...


Of course you are right and this was something i was counting on, since also recleaning the tubes was my only solution (ADVANCED LRT version was not available by that time)! Still -as mentioned above- from the total 3 meters of tube of my loop, i have used a 2ft LRT PRO in my loop the last 8 months that was unused and had not to reclean (so full of plactisizer) that i am curious to check if it has placticiser leeching traces. If not, then probably silver kill coil absence played its role on this. If plactisizer shows up in that tube then clearly silver killcoil has nothing to do (at least in my case) with placticiser leeching.

By the way, your picture showing the revealed coper and the field around it made me worry until i realized that after 8 months of using mayhems X1 clear with my half-"naked" cpu370 koolance block (that has copper revealed from my previous disaster's cleaning) i found no galvanic corrosion traces in it









Perhaps the anticorrosive ingredients of Mayhems x1 did their job









Note: I LOVE the new case you are designing, i just wish you could keep the initial concept of the bent one piece aluminum top-bottom front corners (i hope i express myself correctly here







)


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I have also read that Copper, Silver, and nickel have very little reactivity with each other (electron transfer) as they are all transitional metals. b) close to each other (atomic weight). So in other words they do not create a destructive environment when used together trying to neutralize their differences in electrons. ( at least they are close enough where for practical purposes (say in our water loops) that they are close enough that a silver coil in a system would be very slow and negligible in a practical application.
> Aluminum on the other hand, is not a transitional metal and has a lower atomic number (lower number of protons and electrons) and creates an environment of much more active ionization when put in the same environment with transitional metals that are closer in atomic weight/proton/electron count, pulls electrons from the other metals IE damages them.
> 
> Transitional metals/Abbr/Atomic weight
> 
> * Silver 'Ag' 47 Transitional Metal
> *Copper 'Cu' 29 Transitional Metal
> *Nickel 'Ni' 28 Transitional Metal
> 
> Non-Transitional metal/ABBR/ Atomic Weight
> 
> * Aluminum 'Al' 13 Non-Transitional Metal
> 
> just doing some reading about it quite a long time ago about non compatible metals 'eating/corroding/ ionizing or otherwise breaking each other down. Has anyone else read this?
> 
> 
> 
> In theory what you just wrote is right. Now explain it in practice. Things are easy to say but is hard to do. I mean anything. ;-)
Click to expand...

Well assuming you have made sure that you have limited the metals exposed to the water in the loop.

1) If you keep the main components (the vast majority of the metal) it to transitional metals
2) Limit the Non transitional metals in the loop to the Tin (Sn) in the solder. the Copper (Cu) and Zinc (Zn) comprising Brass (both transitional metals)
3) Do not introduce Aluminum to the internal system.

The practice would be (for myself) this is what I based my loops on. I use a Silver Coils and Distilled and thats it. I have not observed any ill effects on any part of the metallic loop. I keep an aye particularly on smaller edges and thinner areas like micro fins.
Wel, thats my practice of the above 'theory'.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The reused tube had already leeched,there is a finite amount so im not surprised it didnt come back.
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you are right and this was something i was counting on, since also recleaning the tubes was my only solution (ADVANCED LRT version was not available by that time)! Still -as mentioned above- from the total 3 meters of tube of my loop, i have used a 2ft LRT PRO in my loop the last 8 months that was unused and had not to reclean (so full of plactisizer) that i am curious to check if it has placticiser leeching traces. If not, then probably silver kill coil absence played its role on this. If plactisizer shows up in that tube then clearly silver killcoil has nothing to do (at least in my case) with placticiser leeching.
> 
> By the way, your picture showing the revealed coper and the field around it made me worry until i realized that after 8 months of using mayhems X1 clear with my half-"naked" cpu370 koolance block (that has copper revealed from my previous disaster's cleaning) i found no galvanic corrosion traces in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps the *anticorrosive ingredients* of Mayhems x1 did their job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: I LOVE the new case you are designing, i just wish you could keep the initial concept of the bent one piece aluminum top-bottom front corners (i hope i express myself correctly here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

This is the reason,not the absence of silver.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Although I think it's clear that there _may_ be evidence that using an SKC to the loop aggravates plasticizer leeching (at least anecdotal evidence) but I think there is at least as much evidence that average water temperature has a significant impact as well. Based on the user reports in the tubing thread - there were many (myself included) who ran Pro LRT without any issue at all... although in my case, I swapped it out after a month just in case.

The bottom line is that without a completely controlled experiment, and/or full disclosure from Primochill - there's little chance of finding a definitive cause. In fact (IMO at least) I think there's little chance that there even _is_ a definitive cause. It's much more likely a combination of nominally influencing factors of which silver, copper/zinc based biocides, loop temperatures, component manufacturing issues like plating quality and solder type are _all_ partially to blame for the results.

Just my







however...


----------



## wermad

Ok, so I suck at painting and metallic painting is an uber challenge, here's the next best thing







:


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ok, so I suck at painting and metallic painting is an uber challenge, here's the next best thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Sheer genius!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ok, so I suck at painting and metallic painting is an uber challenge, here's the next best thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that is pretty clever!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ok, so I suck at painting and metallic painting is an uber challenge, here's the next best thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


BAWS.

That is all,you can all go about your business.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Well assuming you have made sure that you have limited the metals exposed to the water in the loop.
> 
> 1) If you keep the main components (the vast majority of the metal) it to transitional metals
> 2) Limit the Non transitional metals in the loop to the Tin (Sn) in the solder. the Copper (Cu) and Zinc (Zn) comprising Brass (both transitional metals)
> 3) Do not introduce Aluminum to the internal system.
> 
> The practice would be (for myself) this is what I based my loops on. I use a Silver Coils and Distilled and thats it. I have not observed any ill effects on any part of the metallic loop. I keep an aye particularly on smaller edges and thinner areas like micro fins.
> Wel, thats my practice of the above 'theory'.


Well speach Red, This is the thing, The same hardware that works well for you it won't work well for me or anybody else. I have seen many people with the same hardware having good result and the other people having a nightmare. After a disaster with my Tygon r3603 in the beginning of my Black Hawk Down Build I never stop looking closely my loop like you mentioned above even a flush hardware I had put together just to make sure this will never happen to me before because we do pay a lot money I mean a lot we all know to have all the freaking hardware %$#$% up. I had put together all this hardware flushing loop to clean my things. If one days i decide to sell any of my hardware "I always do" you can buy it with confidence that i will provide a used parts "NEW" to you.

take a quick look at this vid here. this is what I put together

Plasticiser thread, Flushing system parts list






best
skyn3t


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ok, so I suck at painting and metallic painting is an uber challenge, here's the next best thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hat's of for you buddy you did find a way. nice.


----------



## derickwm

Nice one wermad!


----------



## wermad

Thanks guys









I nicked the top and bottom rads a bit so I might have to re-apply those. This is thicker vinyl normally for vehicle applications so a heat gun is a must to settle it in the curved/shaped parts. Unfortunaly, this stretches it and when you re position it, it leaves creases.

It looks pretty good and I hope it can stand out from some of the more gnarly 900Ds out there.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Well assuming you have made sure that you have limited the metals exposed to the water in the loop.
> 
> 1) If you keep the main components (the vast majority of the metal) it to transitional metals
> 2) Limit the Non transitional metals in the loop to the Tin (Sn) in the solder. the Copper (Cu) and Zinc (Zn) comprising Brass (both transitional metals)
> 3) Do not introduce Aluminum to the internal system.
> 
> The practice would be (for myself) this is what I based my loops on. I use a Silver Coils and Distilled and thats it. I have not observed any ill effects on any part of the metallic loop. I keep an aye particularly on smaller edges and thinner areas like micro fins.
> Wel, thats my practice of the above 'theory'.
> 
> 
> 
> Well speach Red, This is the thing, The same hardware that works well for you it won't work well for me or anybody else. I have seen many people with the same hardware having good result and the other people having a nightmare. After a disaster with my Tygon r3603 in the beginning of my Black Hawk Down Build I never stop looking closely my loop like you mentioned above even a flush hardware I had put together just to make sure this will never happen to me before because we do pay a lot money I mean a lot we all know to have all the freaking hardware %$#$% up. I had put together all this hardware flushing loop to clean my things. If one days i decide to sell any of my hardware "I always do" you can buy it with confidence that i will provide a used parts "NEW" to you.
> 
> take a quick look at this vid here. this is what I put together
> 
> Plasticiser thread, Flushing system parts list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> best
> skyn3t
Click to expand...

I agree. there are so many variables involved, so many varying results. i really had to research it, pick one. and experiment with it.
Thus far. the keeping separate of transitional metals and non transitional metals (to the greatest extent possible) and limiting the amount of metals that ionize each other to a minimum has worked well for me. thats why i did not speak in absolutes or say "hey everyone, do this' hehe.
It has worked for me, but thats as far as i have taken it


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

I'll break out the Chem books and do some math for you guys tomorrow.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ok, so I suck at painting and metallic painting is an uber challenge, here's the next best thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looking good, i liking the choice of paint it's very different


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ok, so I suck at painting and metallic painting is an uber challenge, here's the next best thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking good, i liking the choice of paint it's very different
Click to expand...

He used vinyl


----------



## jamaican voodoo

oh i see lol it look soo good i though it was paint lol


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You email companies, saying what you want, what you'll do with it, and why you deserve it. Then some companies say yes and most say no. It's best to email marketing and sales.Departments. Include lots of links of your previous work and have something special planned for what they give you.


gotta say though, is been over a year and you haven't provided much for your sponsors all other than an entry level build with no mods whatsoever..
kinda ruins it for the people who actually wanna do some sponsored stuff. You shouldn't bite off more than you can chew (aka just get free stuff)


----------



## pc-illiterate

Have a question.
I have a swiftech sli bridge for my uni blocks. Its a parralell block. If I have an inlet and outlet on the same end, it should be fine shouldn't it? It'll just be a pain to bleed to bleed both blocks. Am I correct? I don't exactly have enough room to 'in' one end and 'out' the other.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> looking good, i liking the choice of paint it's very different
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> He used vinyl
Click to expand...

Its metallic vinyl wrap. I'm terrible at painting so I'm not even going there. This is fine for me. Really digging it. Will have some more later....


----------



## Shogon

Looks stellar wermad, from the pictures it looks pretty much like you painted them. The green metallic is such a nice touch on the radiators.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ok, so I suck at painting and metallic painting is an uber challenge, here's the next best thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that's a unique approach....well done!


----------



## lowfat

Have you guys seen the gold themed MurderBox MKII yet?

http://million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2013/murderbox-mkii-gold/murderbox-mk2-gold.htm


----------



## Sunreeper

Only build I've seen where those fugly Asus motherboards look nice


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Only build I've seen where those fugly Asus motherboards look nice


Agreed.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Well speach Red, This is the thing, The same hardware that works well for you it won't work well for me or anybody else. I have seen many people with the same hardware having good result and the other people having a nightmare. After a disaster with my Tygon r3603 in the beginning of my Black Hawk Down Build I never stop looking closely my loop like you mentioned above even a flush hardware I had put together just to make sure this will never happen to me before because we do pay a lot money I mean a lot we all know to have all the freaking hardware %$#$% up. I had put together all this hardware flushing loop to clean my things. If one days i decide to sell any of my hardware "I always do" you can buy it with confidence that i will provide a used parts "NEW" to you.
> 
> take a quick look at this vid here. this is what I put together
> 
> Plasticiser thread, Flushing system parts list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> best
> skyn3t


Same exact video I used...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Have you guys seen the gold themed MurderBox MKII yet?
> 
> http://million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2013/murderbox-mkii-gold/murderbox-mk2-gold.htm


I had not. Thanks for the share.


----------



## kingchris

nice one WERMAD








a bit easier for you to change the colour as well


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Have a question.
> I have a swiftech sli bridge for my uni blocks. Its a parralell block. If I have an inlet and outlet on the same end, it should be fine shouldn't it? It'll just be a pain to bleed to bleed both blocks. Am I correct? I don't exactly have enough room to 'in' one end and 'out' the other.


I'm almost certain that those are parallel. In fact, I just looked at some pictures on our website and these are most definitely parallel. You can have one inlet right next to the outlet. Just look at the pictures on our website that shows examples of how to use it. The two that are right next to each other show that this is a parallel SLI bridge. The instructions indicate this as well.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Well assuming you have made sure that you have limited the metals exposed to the water in the loop.
> 
> 1) If you keep the main components (the vast majority of the metal) it to transitional metals
> 2) Limit the Non transitional metals in the loop to the Tin (Sn) in the solder. the Copper (Cu) and Zinc (Zn) comprising Brass (both transitional metals)
> 3) Do not introduce Aluminum to the internal system.
> 
> The practice would be (for myself) this is what I based my loops on. I use a Silver Coils and Distilled and thats it. I have not observed any ill effects on any part of the metallic loop. I keep an aye particularly on smaller edges and thinner areas like micro fins.
> Wel, thats my practice of the above 'theory'.
> 
> 
> 
> Well speach Red, This is the thing, The same hardware that works well for you it won't work well for me or anybody else. I have seen many people with the same hardware having good result and the other people having a nightmare. After a disaster with my Tygon r3603 in the beginning of my Black Hawk Down Build I never stop looking closely my loop like you mentioned above even a flush hardware I had put together just to make sure this will never happen to me before because we do pay a lot money I mean a lot we all know to have all the freaking hardware %$#$% up. I had put together all this hardware flushing loop to clean my things. If one days i decide to sell any of my hardware "I always do" you can buy it with confidence that i will provide a used parts "NEW" to you.
> 
> take a quick look at this vid here. this is what I put together
> 
> Plasticiser thread, Flushing system parts list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> best
> skyn3t
Click to expand...

I agree. there are so many variables involved, so many varying results. i really had to research it, pick one. and experiment with it.
Thus far. the keeping separate of transitional metals and non transitional metals (to the greatest extent possible) and limiting the amount of metals that ionize each other to a minimum has worked well for me. thats why i did not speak in absolutes or say "hey everyone, do this' hehe.
It has worked for me, but thats as far as i have taken it.

The question for me becomes why is that seemingly identical setups, or systems that have the same materials in them can have such a range of results. We are talking about basic laws of physics here regarding metals and materials that don't play nice together. Inside three minutes I can find advice that says a silver coil ate my GPU/CPU blocks and to never use them with copper, to advice that says they are harmless and go ahead.
Unless we have some weird quantum mechanics (yes I know that is redundant ) happening here and watercooling systems are just fine until we look at them a-la Schrödinger's cat. We are introducing the variables (possibly the difference between leaded and silver solder, Copper other than B370, higher content Zinc Brass, the use of de-ionized water etc etc) that are the difference between a watercooling system operating perfectly, or feeding on itself. I would think with all the brains in this room. It might be worth while to create a comprehensive chart/Guide that could be referenced for watercooling system building.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> nice one WERMAD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a bit easier for you to change the colour as well


Yup









Did a few more things w/ the vinyl for the heck of it


----------



## RxKx271

Here is a Pic of my H50


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ok, so I suck at painting and *metallic painting is an uber challenge*, here's the next best thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Naah, it's not that hard:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/22/st7h.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/h7by.jpg/

anyway great job


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Naah, it's not that hard:
> 
> anyway great job


I've been reading up on it and it can be challenging for a noob/novice. So, I'm already not-that-great at painting so I was just going to be a failure waiting to happen. I was looking into Krylon's X-Metals but you need a special base which is hard to find. And you have to apply it properly to get the metallic finish. In all, not my forte so I'm going with something similar. I'm sure there folks out there that have experience, and with metallic paints, but I'm not one of them.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Naah, it's not that hard:
> 
> anyway great job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been reading up on it and it can be challenging for a noob/novice. So, I'm already not-that-great at painting so I was just going to be a failure waiting to happen. I was looking into Krylon's X-Metals but you need a special base which is hard to find. And you have to apply it properly to get the metallic finish. In all, not my forte so I'm going with something similar. I'm sure there folks out there that have experience, and with metallic paints, but I'm not one of them.
Click to expand...

I don't know if this will help or not but the Mod Men paint a case with metallic paint in this one


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Have you guys seen the gold themed MurderBox MKII yet?
> 
> http://million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2013/murderbox-mkii-gold/murderbox-mk2-gold.htm


It does look good in a black and gold scheme, I must say.
Nice to see Nils showing it, as he left the murderbox crew some time ago.

Some food for thought, for those of us who may be doing a build in a MKII.


----------



## IronDoq

Well it's been a long time, I've come a long way, and lurked with the best of 'em. But, I've made some progress.











So. It's awesome, and I'm SUPER happy with it. With all fans at 60%, GPU doesn't go above 35c, and CPU above 65, with some serious volts going through it. Also a really cool thing, the *EK Titan backplate fits perfectly with the aquacomputer block* I have on my 780! Running 1254 +340 game stable 1.21v, it stays so cool... and looks so damn good, with the shiney EK block, to the black and white... mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I have another 780 to arrive in the mail, waiting for the second AQ block and EK backplate sitting in a box from PPCs. One thing I want to ask for some advice on. I really do llike how the curves have turned out, on everything but the top rad>cpu block. How do you guys think I could make it a more bendy curve to match the others in the loop?

Any feedback or comments are appreciated


----------



## wermad

One of the phobya 90°s decided to leak like a stuff big







. Had to breakdown the whole thing to get to it. Good thing I bought extras









Once again and hopefully no more surprises









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> Well it's been a long time, I've come a long way, and lurked with the best of 'em. But, I've made some progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So. It's awesome, and I'm SUPER happy with it. With all fans at 60%, GPU doesn't go above 35c, and CPU above 65, with some serious volts going through it. Also a really cool thing, the *EK Titan backplate fits perfectly with the aquacomputer block* I have on my 780! Running 1254 +340 game stable 1.21v, it stays so cool... and looks so damn good, with the shiney EK block, to the black and white... mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I have another 780 to arrive in the mail, waiting for the second AQ block and EK backplate sitting in a box from PPCs. One thing I want to ask for some advice on. I really do llike how the curves have turned out, on everything but the top rad>cpu block. How do you guys think I could make it a more bendy curve to match the others in the loop?
> 
> Any feedback or comments are appreciated


Looks awesome ID! How's Surround treating your 780?


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One of the phobya 90°s decided to leak like a stuff big
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Had to breakdown the whole thing to get to it. Good thing I bought extras
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again and hopefully no more surprises
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome ID! How's Surround treating your 780?


Why thank you, I do fancy it myself.







Well I have a display port cable in the mail, but I did test it a bit with an HDMI cable (shudders at the thought of 60hz). BF3 kept at about 80-90 GPS on low, didnt really test much else. That game has some sort of magical hold on me. But it did really well, even though the HDMI limited me to 60. Can't wait to add my second (if you remember the screw incident... they accepted it for RMA







) to the loop to see how fast it flies! I'm also picking up two BNIB 3770ks on Monday ($240 each







), will bin for the best clocker and dellid the sucker


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> Well it's been a long time, I've come a long way, and lurked with the best of 'em. But, I've made some progress.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So. It's awesome, and I'm SUPER happy with it. With all fans at 60%, GPU doesn't go above 35c, and CPU above 65, with some serious volts going through it. Also a really cool thing, the *EK Titan backplate fits perfectly with the aquacomputer block* I have on my 780! Running 1254 +340 game stable 1.21v, it stays so cool... and looks so damn good, with the shiney EK block, to the black and white... mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I have another 780 to arrive in the mail, waiting for the second AQ block and EK backplate sitting in a box from PPCs. One thing I want to ask for some advice on. I really do llike how the curves have turned out, on everything but the top rad>cpu block. How do you guys think I could make it a more bendy curve to match the others in the loop?
> 
> Any feedback or comments are appreciated


Maybe it's the shading, but that top tube looks really twisted. Otherwise, sick build.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Same exact video I used...


:-D this is how we keep our loop nice and neat without damage anything.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Okay so, Galvanic corrosion.
Quote:


> Galvanic corrosion is a process that degrades metals electrochemically. This corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are placed in contact with each other in the presence of an electrolyte, such as salt water, forming a galvanic cell.


Basically when two dissimilar metals are placed in an electrolyte (E.X. Water). They form a galvanic cell, which in effect is a type of battery. One metal becomes the anode another the cathode. (Oxidation occurs at anode, electrons are lost; Reduction occurs at cathode, electrons are received). Therefore electrons from the anode transfer to the cathode when a conductor is present (water). So the anode losses electrons making it microscopically smaller. This is the process of galvanic corrosion.

And?


This is the galvanic series, the bottom is the least reactive, the top the most. So say we had a loop with copper and nickel. The copper would be the cathode and the nickel would be the anode according to the chart.
So the equation for the cathode would be: Cu = Cu2+ + 2e- (copper oxidizes to copper(II) ion and 2 electrons) (unfortunately copper also has a plus 1 ion but for the sake of this example we will use the plus 2)
The equation for the anode would be: Ni+2 +2e- = Ni
Using the Standard Electrode Potential Table we find that the copper equation has a standard electropotential of -0.340
and the nickel −0.25. Using these we can find the overall cell potential.
Eocell = Eoreduction + Eooxidation
Eocell = -0.340 + -0.25
*Eocell = -0.59*
This is very very low. Because is is negative it is a galvanic cell. If it were a positive number it would be electrolytic. To give you an idea Al and Cu is about -1.9 (not technically but close enough, I can explain this if needed). This is why we don't want to use Al in our loops.
Silver and Copper is ~ -0.5
Silver and nickel is ~ -0.8
In short it is very unlikely any of the metals (except for Al and Cu) are reacting violently enough to have an effect on our loops.
The last couple of calculations are estimates to show the differences. If you would like exact numbers let me know (I would have to balance the equations)


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Okay so, Galvanic corrosion.
> Basically when two dissimilar metals are placed in an electrolyte (E.X. Water). They form a galvanic cell, which in effect is a type of battery. One metal becomes the anode another the cathode. (Oxidation occurs at anode, electrons are lost; Reduction occurs at cathode, electrons are received). Therefore electrons from the anode transfer to the cathode when a conductor is present (water). So the anode losses electrons making it microscopically smaller. This is the process of galvanic corrosion.
> 
> And?
> 
> -snip-
> This is the galvanic series, the bottom is the least reactive, the top the most. So say we had a loop with copper and nickel. The copper would be the cathode and the nickel would be the anode according to the chart.
> So the equation for the cathode would be: Cu = Cu2+ + 2e- (copper oxidizes to copper(II) ion and 2 electrons) (unfortunately copper also has a plus 1 ion but for the sake of this example we will use the plus 2)
> The equation for the anode would be: Ni+2 +2e- = Ni
> Using the Standard Electrode Potential Table we find that the copper equation has a standard electropotential of -0.340
> and the nickel −0.25. Using these we can find the overall cell potential.
> Eocell = Eoreduction + Eooxidation
> Eocell = -0.340 + -0.25
> *Eocell = -0.59*
> This is very very low. Because is is negative it is a galvanic cell. If it were a positive number it would be electrolytic. To give you an idea Al and Cu is about -1.9 (not technically but close enough, I can explain this if needed). This is why we don't want to use Al in our loops.
> Silver and Copper is ~ -0.5
> Silver and nickel is ~ -0.8
> In short it is very unlikely any of the metals (except for Al and Cu) are reacting violently enough to have an effect on our loops.
> The last couple of calculations are estimates to show the differences. If you would like exact numbers let me know (I would have to balance the equations)


+REP for sound chemistry.
There really shouldn't be any "evidence" disproving this, even on a case by case basis. Most likely, anyone saying otherwise hasn't considered all possible forms of contamination in their loop.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Okay so, Galvanic corrosion.
> Basically when two dissimilar metals are placed in an electrolyte (E.X. Water). They form a galvanic cell, which in effect is a type of battery. One metal becomes the anode another the cathode. (Oxidation occurs at anode, electrons are lost; Reduction occurs at cathode, electrons are received). Therefore electrons from the anode transfer to the cathode when a conductor is present (water). So the anode losses electrons making it microscopically smaller. This is the process of galvanic corrosion.
> 
> And?
> 
> 
> This is the galvanic series, the bottom is the least reactive, the top the most. So say we had a loop with copper and nickel. The copper would be the cathode and the nickel would be the anode according to the chart.
> So the equation for the cathode would be: Cu = Cu2+ + 2e- (copper oxidizes to copper(II) ion and 2 electrons) (unfortunately copper also has a plus 1 ion but for the sake of this example we will use the plus 2)
> The equation for the anode would be: Ni+2 +2e- = Ni
> Using the Standard Electrode Potential Table we find that the copper equation has a standard electropotential of -0.340
> and the nickel −0.25. Using these we can find the overall cell potential.
> Eocell = Eoreduction + Eooxidation
> Eocell = -0.340 + -0.25
> *Eocell = -0.59*
> This is very very low. Because is is negative it is a galvanic cell. If it were a positive number it would be electrolytic. To give you an idea Al and Cu is about -1.9 (not technically but close enough, I can explain this if needed). This is why we don't want to use Al in our loops.
> Silver and Copper is ~ -0.5
> Silver and nickel is ~ -0.8
> In short it is very unlikely any of the metals (except for Al and Cu) are reacting violently enough to have an effect on our loops.
> The last couple of calculations are estimates to show the differences. If you would like exact numbers let me know (I would have to balance the equations)


Bang goes my Magnesium based loop then


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Okay so, Galvanic corrosion.
> Basically when two dissimilar metals are placed in an electrolyte (E.X. Water). They form a galvanic cell, which in effect is a type of battery. One metal becomes the anode another the cathode. (Oxidation occurs at anode, electrons are lost; Reduction occurs at cathode, electrons are received). Therefore electrons from the anode transfer to the cathode when a conductor is present (water). So the anode losses electrons making it microscopically smaller. This is the process of galvanic corrosion.
> 
> And?
> 
> -snip-
> This is the galvanic series, the bottom is the least reactive, the top the most. So say we had a loop with copper and nickel. The copper would be the cathode and the nickel would be the anode according to the chart.
> So the equation for the cathode would be: Cu = Cu2+ + 2e- (copper oxidizes to copper(II) ion and 2 electrons) (unfortunately copper also has a plus 1 ion but for the sake of this example we will use the plus 2)
> The equation for the anode would be: Ni+2 +2e- = Ni
> Using the Standard Electrode Potential Table we find that the copper equation has a standard electropotential of -0.340
> and the nickel −0.25. Using these we can find the overall cell potential.
> Eocell = Eoreduction + Eooxidation
> Eocell = -0.340 + -0.25
> *Eocell = -0.59*
> This is very very low. Because is is negative it is a galvanic cell. If it were a positive number it would be electrolytic. To give you an idea Al and Cu is about -1.9 (not technically but close enough, I can explain this if needed). This is why we don't want to use Al in our loops.
> Silver and Copper is ~ -0.5
> Silver and nickel is ~ -0.8
> In short it is very unlikely any of the metals (except for Al and Cu) are reacting violently enough to have an effect on our loops.
> The last couple of calculations are estimates to show the differences. If you would like exact numbers let me know (I would have to balance the equations)
> 
> 
> 
> +REP for sound chemistry.
> There really shouldn't be any "evidence" disproving this, even on a case by case basis. Most likely, anyone saying otherwise hasn't considered all possible forms of contamination in their loop.
Click to expand...

Exactly,its a knee jerk reaction to blame silver when many users use it with no impact to loop integrity.
Normally its a plating issue,you see a lot of complaints about a lack of nickel in fins but this is atypical of traditional plating,electroless coats better.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Bang goes my Magnesium based loop then


lol Try a magnesium waterblocks with gold tubing, That be interesting


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Be interesting to see how EKs gold plated block fares,widening the gap even more.....


----------



## Seredin

Do want graphite / silver loop.


----------



## derickwm

We ran tests 24/7 tests on our gold plated blocks with multiple metals and fluids and saw no effects.


----------



## kzim9

Thought I would add an updated pic to this thread.....


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Maybe it's the shading, but that top tube looks really twisted. Otherwise, sick build.


I see that in the picture too. The last time I re-did the loop I actually was able to untwist it quite a bit; now it's just TINY BIT twisted, but I can live with it. The picture makes it looks much worse. And thank you!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> Thought I would add an updated pic to this thread.....


That. Looks. So good. To me my eyes are drawn towards the graphics cards, I freaking love Koolance blocks. VERY nicely done, enjoy that beast of a build! Got a log?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> It does look good in a black and gold scheme, I must say.
> Nice to see Nils showing it, as he left the murderbox crew some time ago.
> 
> Some food for thought, for those of us who may be doing a build in a MKII.


Patron 020 here









I just hope they can get the rest of the reorders required to start building.


----------



## szeged

so the general consensus is that primochill advanced lrt solved the plasticizer problem, and tygon E3603 still has plasticizer issues? If so, im gonna go ahead and order some primo A LRT tubing from ppc.


----------



## Xyrrath

How would I be able to see if my tubing will have some plasti issues?

I got 2 meters of Tygon snd Primo incoming


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so the general consensus is that primochill advanced lrt solved the plasticizer problem, and tygon E3603 still has plasticizer issues? If so, im gonna go ahead and order some primo A LRT tubing from ppc.


Pretty much, yes. I myself have some in white, I love the stuff. Were you planning on colored of using clear with dye?


----------



## szeged

clear with blood red dye from mayhems.


----------



## wermad

another phobya 90 adapter started leaking.......grrrrrrrrrrrrrr..............going back to the old ones i have left.


----------



## joejoe69

Phobya has some cheap fittings. I have 2 90° rotary barbs that I use for filling my loops and leak testing my components outside the case. Both leaked at the swivel points. I would be scared to use an all-Phobya assortment after experiencing that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Phobya has some cheap fittings. I have 2 90° rotary barbs that I use for filling my loops and leak testing my components outside the case. Both leaked at the swivel points. I would be scared to use an all-Phobya assortment after experiencing that.


I needed some really low profile ones. I"m using an old one I had already and its working fine. still leak testing.


----------



## oelkanne

Which Case for Watercooling???

Corsair 900D
LD V8
Caselabs STH 10


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Which Case for Watercooling???
> 
> Corsair 900D
> LD V8
> Caselabs STH 10


LD V7


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Which Case for Watercooling???
> 
> Corsair 900D
> LD V8
> Caselabs STH 10


Man, making us chose...? Probably the STH 10, it has amazing options, is incredibly well thought out, and has a ton of extras that can really make it your own, unique case. That being said, which do you like? Aesthetics matter, as they can all hold their worth of WC gear.


----------



## oelkanne

Problem one...shipping to germany
Problem two...dont want to have to use a driller to get that case into parts
Problem three...right now cooling my system with 2 - MoRa 3









And Yeah making you all to help me









because i cant decide witch one it might be....and you guys seems to me such freaking bad boys that puts the money u earned not into food...


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I needed some really low profile ones. I"m using an old one I had already and its working fine. still leak testing.


Hoping for no leaks because I like how your build is coming along.


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Problem one...shipping to germany
> Problem two...dont want to have to use a driller to get that case into parts
> Problem three...right now cooling my system with 2 - MoRa 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Yeah making you all to help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because i cant decide witch one it might be....and you guys seems to me such freaking bad boys that puts the money u earned not into food...


So you're leaning away from Caselabs? Duuuuude they're awesome, but hey. I'm in a lowly Switch 810







. In that case my vote goes for 900d. Damn SEXAY case with tons of options, a massive window, and readily available with great customer support from Corsair.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Hoping for no leaks because I like how your build is coming along.


So far so good. Just fired up the whole thing I'm testing the gpu(s) and cpu to make sure they're still ok. Might wrap this up today or tomorrow. Time to flex these 780s in Surround


----------



## oelkanne

I saw a video about tearing a 900D down aaaand...it sks...









The MB-tray is like a pice of paper...


----------



## wermad

Not uber perfect like some awesome builds here but its coming along.



Those front bottom 90°s where the culprit. Everything else was tight and sealed


----------



## sakerfalcon

God that 900D is huge.


----------



## PinzaC55

Well I couldn't wait for my new Bitspower fittings so I decided, this afternoon, to take the plunge. I stripped my GTX 690 apart and applied the EK FC 690 block to it (3.5 hours) with temporary fitting and tubes and what can I say? Results are stellar. I just ran Valley benchmark on Extreme HD and whereas before my GPU hit 80 degrees now the typical figure was 45 with an absolute max of 47. Before, if I ran a video game or benchmark I couldn't touch the backplate but now it is barely warm.
But my upgrade obsession is still with me and I can sense a Flow Meter coming on


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Which Case for Watercooling???
> 
> Corsair 900D
> LD V8
> Caselabs STH 10


the 900d is most bang for the buck, but the ld v8 is realy nice


----------



## wermad

WC:
Good: 900D
Better: LD V8
Best: STH-10

Price
Good: STH-10
Better: LD V8
Best: 900D


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Problem one...shipping to germany
> Problem two...dont want to have to use a driller to get that case into parts
> Problem three...right now cooling my system with 2 - MoRa 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Yeah making you all to help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because i cant decide witch one it might be....and you guys seems to me such freaking bad boys that puts the money u earned not into food...


Speaking of food.....I just realized I haven't eaten since lunch at work yesterday...ROFL
Between the NZXT build and migrating everything to Server 2012 from 2008 on the home network, I got a lil disctracted.


----------



## Modest Mouse

Well this is what happened on a rainy Saturday afternoon....


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

So I am in need of some help so I'm turning to you WCin' gurus. So i ordered a FC bridge system to connect my GPU's together, and i'm having major problems making the FC link system to stay leak free. Any tips? I tried with a little vaseline on the O-rings but that only worked for a couple of hours before it started leaking again. is it a production error or am i just doing it wrong?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> So I am in need of some help so I'm turning to you WCin' gurus. So i ordered a FC bridge system to connect my GPU's together, and i'm having major problems making the FC link system to stay leak free. Any tips? I tried with a little vaseline on the O-rings but that only worked for a couple of hours before it started leaking again. is it a production error or am i just doing it wrong?


Which blocks and which bridge system?


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

My Sapphire card has this waterblock: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16945/ex-blc-1211/EK_Radeon_HD_7970_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acrylic_CSQ_EK-FC7970_CSQ.html?tl=g57c599s1921

My newly purchased xfx card has this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17069/ex-blc-1226/EK_Radeon_HD_7970_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC7970_-_Nickel_CSQ.html?tl=g57c599s1921

the bridge: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16964/ex-blc-1213/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c593s1896#blank

The leak seems to be happing on my xfx card, between the waterblock and the FC link adapter.


----------



## wermad

Does it leak between the bridge and the adapter?


----------



## wermad

Red or blue arrow???


----------



## kj1060

Hey guys, I am having some troubles with my leak testing of my new tube route. It goes XSPC RES/D5 > CPU > 360 > 3x Komodos > Helix Res > D5 > 480 > 240 > XSPC RES/D5. When I attempt to run both pumps at the same time the bay reservoir begins to fill up. I have set both pumps to 5 and it still happens. Is there something I am missing or is it just a matter of dialing in the pumps to be the same speed even if they aren't both on same speed on the "outside"? Thank you for your help.


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

the red arrow chart is where it seems to be leaking. It looks like it doesn't seal properly under pressure when the pumps are running, when the pump / computer is off it seems to stop leaking.


----------



## lowfat

Finished polishing the last GPU block. I think they look good.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-17-2.jpg.html


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I think they look fantastic... well except for the circles - but that's a personal preferrence.







Regardless, _your work_ on them looks great!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Used a bad alphcool 45 fitting. I thought I threw it out. No leaks since I swapped it. Pcie cables run in front of my pump tubes but I can't do anything about it til I get my new pump. I'll put up a pic or 2 after I get her wired tomorrow. Glad ppcs sent me a replacement fitting.
Can't put up a pic of the fitting from my phone. What's up with that...


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Which Case for Watercooling???
> 
> Corsair 900D
> LD V8
> Caselabs STH 10


Maybe you shut look on the new corsair 540 case
And you can get it at caseking with is in german


----------



## TampaChaz

NZXT project build work (for today) completed - CHECK
Windows Server 2012 migration on Home Network Completed - CHECK
Windows 8.1 Preview Loaded on Lappy - CHECK
Ubuntu system in living room updater repaired and all updates completed - CHECK
All windows systems updates completed and full system scans run - CHECK
Ubuntu system/Windows 7 systems/windows 8 systems and MACs all resynched to the network - CHECK
And I mowed the front and back yards this morning before the Florida rains hit....
I feel like THISguy right now! LOL


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished polishing the last GPU block. I think they look good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-17-2.jpg.html


How'd you do that it looks stunning!


----------



## ginger_nuts

^^^^ What they said. Great job.

Need a how to guide.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Still need my full covers


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> NZXT project build work (for today) completed - CHECK
> Windows Server 2012 migration on Home Network Completed - CHECK
> Windows 8.1 Preview Loaded on Lappy - CHECK
> Ubuntu system in living room updater repaired and all updates completed - CHECK
> All windows systems updates completed and full system scans run - CHECK
> Ubuntu system/Windows 7 systems/windows 8 systems and MACs all resynched to the network - CHECK
> And I mowed the front and back yards this morning before the Florida rains hit....
> I feel like THISguy right now! LOL


ROLF so hard now lol.

Bahhh did I deserved this todsy?
Bump for hawk.  let's fly hawk come oneeeee.... I'm about to finish but I'm very sad because my mdpc clamps for my 24 pin cables didn't arrived today I cant get it done without th those bahhhhhhhhhhhhhh hahaha dangggggggggggggg.

Are you mad? :-(


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Don't you guys hate when your package doesn't come on Saturday and you know you have to wait alllll the way until Monday????


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Don't you guys hate when your package doesn't come on Saturday and you know you have to wait alllll the way until Monday????


why did you keep remind me about it ?









I just finished the last cable soldering and sleeving.

8 pin pw cable done
24 pin pw cable done
6/8 pin sli cable done
pump done
fan control done
extra molex pin done
all tubing done
cable management sucked no clamps for 24pin cable the rest is done.
gonna sand and repaint my side panel since I don't have the clamps I cannot put the 24 pin in place because of the clamps, why the clamps failed to deliver today? dang clamps I may use cable tie but i do hate it i want my clamps. clamps are so neat because the look good.

I may have a nightmare tonight because of my clamps that has not arrived. I'm my nut's I'm working on my rig since 7:30am it 940pm now. I need a bleak I think.







but I'm still thinking on my


Spoiler: don't click: Spoiler!











I want my freaking clamps clamp's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> the red arrow chart is where it seems to be leaking. It looks like it doesn't seal properly under pressure when the pumps are running, when the pump / computer is off it seems to stop leaking.


try swapping out the adapter with the other one from the second card. This will let you know if its a bad adapter or maybe something is weird with first block. Power on only the pump and don't plug any power connector to the mb or gpu(s).

To jump your psu, grab a large paperclip and bend it into a "U" shape. Facing the clip on the mb's 24-pin cable, find the green cable, insert one leg of the paperclip and the other into any ground (black).


----------



## wermad

No csq to hide but I couldn't resist


----------



## Knight091

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> I love the LD V8. It's everything you need for a great setup and looks great imo. But SO expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful build btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the new copper/inox


We're did you get the acrylic tubing? Also how did you bend the acrylic tubes? I am looking into doing the same thing with my computer build.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight091*
> 
> We're did you get the acrylic tubing? Also how did you bend the acrylic tubes? I am looking into doing the same thing with my computer build.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101

That's the one you're looking for!


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not uber perfect like some awesome builds here but its coming along.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Nice!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those front bottom 90°s where the culprit. Everything else was tight and sealed


Looking good!!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> NZXT project build work (for today) completed - CHECK
> Windows Server 2012 migration on Home Network Completed - CHECK
> Windows 8.1 Preview Loaded on Lappy - CHECK
> Ubuntu system in living room updater repaired and all updates completed - CHECK
> All windows systems updates completed and full system scans run - CHECK
> Ubuntu system/Windows 7 systems/windows 8 systems and MACs all resynched to the network - CHECK
> And I mowed the front and back yards this morning before the Florida rains hit....
> I feel like THISguy right now! LOL


Yeah, here's my day.
Have Windows 8 install on main computer become corrupt CHECK
Have Samsung Galaxy S3 die out of nowhere CHECK








lol


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No csq to hide but I couldn't resist


Looking goooood!!







(still got a leak) ...lol...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Looking goooood!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (still got a leak) ...lol...


Two new phobya 90s leaked







. Luckily i ordered a few of them and i had some of the old ones. No leaks at this point, just sorting out the fans. The brand new NZXT Mix controller is crap and this would be the last time i buy NZXT controllers. Gonna find me a good o' Lamptron. Not sure what's up with the R4s but they're very temperamental all of a sudden. Right now they're going on the psu's molex 5v line for now until I can get a new controller.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Looking goooood!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (still got a leak) ...lol...
> 
> 
> 
> Two new phobya 90s leaked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Luckily i ordered a few of them and i had some of the old ones. No leaks at this point, just sorting out the fans. The brand new NZXT Mix controller is crap and this would be the last time i buy NZXT controllers. Gonna find me a good o' Lamptron. Not sure what's up with the R4s but they're very temperamental all of a sudden. Right now they're going on the psu's molex 5v line for now until I can get a new controller.
Click to expand...

You're talking about the Mix 2, right? What's with it?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Gotta bring up my Silverstone TJ11 after seeing the earlier discussion about the best water cooling cases. Certainly the 900D, STH10, and LD V8 are fantasitc cases all with their own unique advantages but the TJ11 also has a few tricks up its sleeve like the 90-degree rotated mobo tray (which is great for hanging heavy GPU blocks), full aluminum construction, and space for a 560 rad in the bottom. The removable mobo tray is quite sturdy outside the case and the airflow with the included AP181's is probably best in class. Sure the price is steep and it lacks the customization of the Caselabs or LD cases but the TJ11 is still definitely in the discussion IMO...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> You're talking about the Mix 2, right? What's with it?


Mesh.

I got a MIx a year ago and it had the whine. I rma'd and they sent me the Mesh. The rma guy from NZXT said they were halting the Mix because of issues. It worked but recently the 12v started w/ the whine on the Mesh. I bought another one, same thing but like the old one the 5v was fine. rma'd that one and the same with this new one. I'm just going to use the old one as a 5v hub for now. I was going to pull the trigger on the Fan-Atic but the red led are putting me off.

I did get an emailer from NZXT about the Mix 2.0 coming soon but I really won't bother with them anymore.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Gotta bring up my Silverstone TJ11 after seeing the earlier discussion about the best water cooling cases. Certainly the 900D, STH10, and LD V8 are fantasitc cases all with their own unique advantages but the TJ11 also has a few tricks up its sleeve like the 90-degree rotated mobo tray (which is great for hanging heavy GPU blocks), full aluminum construction, and space for a 560 rad in the bottom. The removable mobo tray is quite sturdy outside the case and the airflow with the included AP181's is probably best in class. Sure the price is steep and it lacks the customization of the Caselabs or LD cases but the TJ11 is still definitely in the discussion IMO...


i wouldnt say the TJ11 is lacking in customization,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7sge4ybbGo&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PLWYPRHLWSBL4B04Ab1v3TNsj1akqyW_-E

i love following this guys builds, and this one is no exception.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I think they look fantastic... well except for the circles - but that's a personal preferrence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless, _your work_ on them looks great!


I feel the same, I hate those damn circles on every one of their products, wish they would just give it up already, they have some cool ideas just the circles are hideous!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Gotta bring up my Silverstone TJ11 after seeing the earlier discussion about the best water cooling cases. Certainly the 900D, STH10, and LD V8 are fantasitc cases all with their own unique advantages but the TJ11 also has a few tricks up its sleeve like the 90-degree rotated mobo tray (which is great for hanging heavy GPU blocks), full aluminum construction, and space for a 560 rad in the bottom. The removable mobo tray is quite sturdy outside the case and the airflow with the included AP181's is probably best in class. Sure the price is steep and it lacks the customization of the Caselabs or LD cases but the TJ11 is still definitely in the discussion IMO...


I was going to give mylself a TJ11, but my wife gave me the 800D beforevi pulled the trigger she found it for $160 or $170 on ebay.Imo the best looking cased for me still the 800D, 900D, TJ11 some how I don't like caselabs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mesh.
> 
> I got a MIx a year ago and it had the whine. I rma'd and they sent me the Mesh. The rma guy from NZXT said they were halting the Mix because of issues. It worked but recently the 12v started w/ the whine on the Mesh. I bought another one, same thing but like the old one the 5v was fine. rma'd that one and the same with this new one. I'm just going to use the old one as a 5v hub for now. I was going to pull the trigger on the Fan-Atic but the red led are putting me off.
> 
> I did get an emailer from NZXT about the Mix 2.0 coming soon but I really won't bother with them anymore.


Just mod the led if you can


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Just mod the led if you can


With 27 fans, 5v runs perfectly fine for me







. Just cancelled my Lamptron order from amazon and ordered something for the little one (she's been bugging me to get it for her).

Plus, i like the two slots cover vs one on the bays. Going top tackle wire management tonight


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wouldnt say the TJ11 is lacking in customization,
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7sge4ybbGo&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PLWYPRHLWSBL4B04Ab1v3TNsj1akqyW_-E
> 
> i love following this guys builds, and this one is no exception.


Hes a legend


----------



## wermad

C'est fini!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1407469/build-log-green-zilla-900d-wc-build-yes-another-one


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> ^^^^ What they said. Great job.
> 
> Need a how to guide.


its easy i have done the same to my ek supremacy ^^ im thinking on doing a guide


----------



## kingchris

good going wermad


----------



## neSSa

Here is a quick project for my little brother

















Intel 3570k
Asus z77 itx
RAM 8GB 2133Mhz
Asus Radeon 6990


----------



## Michalius

Some pics from a Proof of Concept fitting of my buddy's build, 'Radiance'. I'll be posting up a youtube video a bit later once it finishes upload.


----------



## Sumner Rol

Got around to shortening my lines. I had left them long since it was my first custom loop and I wanted to have material to work with in case I messed something up. So here's the before:

And the after:


----------



## Sumner Rol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Some pics from a Proof of Concept fitting of my buddy's build, 'Radiance'. I'll be posting up a youtube video a bit later once it finishes upload.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice paint work. Described in one word: Stunning


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sumner Rol*
> 
> Got around to shortening my lines. I had left them long since it was my first custom loop and I wanted to have material to work with in case I messed something up. So here's the before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


well, I don't see much difference TBH


----------



## joejoe69

Neptune, formerly Project Shift.


----------



## fnyk

my setup for new




and that is a 480 rad 60mm and dual d5 pumps from my forner setup

as you can see its easy to do that with ek blocks


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> my setup for new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and that is a 480 rad 60mm and dual d5 pumps from my forner setup
> 
> as you can see its easy to do that with ek blocks


Is that a RIVF?

I'm going to take some pictures of my case mod tonight, will post some here to make your guys :droool:


----------



## oelkanne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> WC:
> Good: 900D
> Better: LD V8
> Best: STH-10
> 
> Price
> Good: STH-10
> Better: LD V8
> Best: 900D


THX...going for a V8


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Is that a RIVF?
> 
> I'm going to take some pictures of my case mod tonight, will post some here to make your guys :droool:


What do you mean be RIVF?


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> my setup for new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and that is a 480 rad 60mm and dual d5 pumps from my forner setup
> 
> as you can see its easy to do that with ek blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a RIVF?
> 
> I'm going to take some pictures of my case mod tonight, will post some here to make your guys :droool:
Click to expand...

It looks like the Rampage IV Gene.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Is that a RIVF?
> 
> I'm going to take some pictures of my case mod tonight, will post some here to make your guys :droool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean be RIVF?
Click to expand...

RIVF = Rampage IV Formula.


----------



## szeged

rampage IV extreme motherboard


----------



## fnyk

No sorry its rivg ( rampage 4 gene )

Becos i wanted to make it smaller
Then it will be easy to get to lanparty's and dont have to take that big xspc h2 case with me all the time

The funny part is that my gtx titan is a little bit longer then my rampage xD


----------



## skyn3t

soo much power, just uploaded more to my work log check out.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I feel the same, I hate those damn circles on every one of their products, wish they would just give it up already, they have some cool ideas just the circles are hideous!


They sell non circle versions of damn near everything.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They sell non circle versions of damn near everything.


not until recently, which is why most people have the CSQ design, they didnt want to wait forever to get a waterblock that didnt have the design.


----------



## skyn3t

Extras pics from a random day.











My SBX


My SBX back plate


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Extras pics from a random day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My SBX
> 
> 
> My SBX back plate


looking really good! my 900d (should) arrive tomorrow so i can finally start my build log, definitely gonna be reviewing(stealing) some ideas from the corsair800/900d club


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> looking really good! my 900d (should) arrive tomorrow so i can finally start my build log, definitely gonna be reviewing(stealing) some ideas from the corsair800/900d club


For me to finish it 100% I need
3x slimmed sata cable 12" or I will need to open a small hole in the mobo tray below the mobo . ( My ssd will be hang out in the back of my case because I don't want to do something out of my plan.
repaint my door side panel
Led strip light It will be done latter ( no need it right now ) My vandal switch is there already








My 24 pin clamps it may arrive tomorrow


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Guys do any of you use alphacool compression fittings? Im usually bitspower all the way but with the amount of fittings im about to order I could save alot going with alphacool or enzotech. Anyone use these? Also will I need any special fittings to use tygon E-1000? I noticed PPCS.com sold some bitspower fittings just for tygon.


----------



## Chomuco

looking really good!new
















http://imgur.com/a/PJwRL#0


----------



## Modest Mouse

@ Joejoe


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune, formerly Project Shift.





Formerly project shift, formerly neptune, now Project Awesome


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Forgot if i have put this up or not....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to do a bit of tweaking to get the lines right still.
> 
> And im now in the lead for Bittech MOTM!


Very very nice, obviously. Out of curiosity, what fittings are you using?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> R3603 or E3603? The R is terrible stuff, the E is yet to be determined as it is relatively new.
> That could look good too. I do like the frosted blocks they just don't go w/ my current build. Took this tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-15-1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Finished polishing the last GPU block. I think they look good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-17-2.jpg.html


Absolutely beautiful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Have you guys seen the gold themed MurderBox MKII yet?
> 
> http://million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2013/murderbox-mkii-gold/murderbox-mk2-gold.htm


Jesus christ. Still prefer 042, but damn is that freaking beautiful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> C'est fini!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1407469/build-log-green-zilla-900d-wc-build-yes-another-one
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome!








Now wrap the ram? Haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> Here is a quick project for my little brother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intel 3570k
> Asus z77 itx
> RAM 8GB 2133Mhz
> Asus Radeon 6990


Wow, custom waterblock plate? Jeez.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Some pics from a Proof of Concept fitting of my buddy's build, 'Radiance'. I'll be posting up a youtube video a bit later once it finishes upload.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn, some awesome work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune, formerly Project Shift.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks amazing finished...

Also, can anyone find anywhere where the new XSPC res is actually for sale? They said on their facebook it would release within a month in may, but it's stil absent from their site.

Btw, sorry for massive post, you miss a lot when you don't have internet for a couple days.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I was going to give mylself a TJ11, but my wife gave me the 800D beforevi pulled the trigger she found it for $160 or $170 on ebay.Imo the best looking cased for me still the 800D, 900D, TJ11 some how I don't like caselabs.
> Just mod the led if you can


I think it's simply a matter of design ethic... they're coming from very different places. One is the epitome of style and grace - the other the epitome of strength and flexibility. I think it's fair to say that if someone likes the high-end cases of Silverstone or Lian-Li, then they probably do not find cases from Mountain Mods, Case Labs, or DangerDen (when avail) and to a lesser extent even the LD cases appealing.

I'm on the other side of your opinion... I used Lian Li and Silverstone cases exclusively for years (~15 ago was my first Lian Li build I think) and loved them. Now that I've owned a Case Labs case - I'll _never_ buy another case from them as long as I live (I won't even consider it for 1 minute in fact). It's not that I don't think the TJ11 or TJ08 aren't beautiful cases (especially the anodized/brushed finishes) but they all feel so flimsy, disposable, and lacking in capacity to me now.

Not saying that you can't build an absolute beast of a system into a TJ11 or a PCX-2000... nor that you can't build an absolutely beautiful show-rig in a TH10 or V8... but in general if LOOKS are much more important than POWER... you're better off with the high-end commercial cases... if POWER is your #1 priority however... it takes a ton of work to come anywhere close to the capacity of the boutique cases as they ship!


----------



## stickg1

How do I fix this? After 24 hours of running my loop the entire thing is filled with these micro-bubbles. I have shut it off and gotten rid of all the big bubbles, and tried topping off the res several times but after a few days my loop looks like this...

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/IMG_20130707_144629_663_zps2cc8bbab.jpg.html


----------



## TwiggLe

That bottom right hose looks like it has a nice kink in it.


----------



## fnyk

its maybe becos you have a lot of pressier in the end of the loop and the water then taks some air in from the top ther is left in the top of the res

i had the same in my one then i got something in wher the water is comming back then it dont take air in when it returns to the res


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> How do I fix this? After 24 hours of running my loop the entire thing is filled with these micro-bubbles. I have shut it off and gotten rid of all the big bubbles, and tried topping off the res several times but after a few days my loop looks like this...


The kink in your hose might be the culprit.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> The kink in your hose might be the culprit.


^This. Most likely the pressure change is causing any bleeding to form the micro bubbles... however, once they form since they're so small they just get sucked through over and over again.

The only other possibility is that you have some form of detergent solution that is still present (in adequate flushing perhaps) which is making the water more foamy. However, I think Karlitos and Twiggle are correct - and no matter what, until you fix _that_ there's really no point in doing any other troubleshooting. If it's still present after fixing the kink... then I'd flush everthing again and use fresh distilled.


----------



## PedroC1999

Need that damn CPU Block


----------



## AenonElec

Here is my green ting


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> How do I fix this? After 24 hours of running my loop the entire thing is filled with these micro-bubbles. I have shut it off and gotten rid of all the big bubbles, and tried topping off the res several times but after a few days my loop looks like this...
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/IMG_20130707_144629_663_zps2cc8bbab.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


just release the top fill port on your res and let it bread a bit when system are running. just lose the top fill port do not remove it completely and your res is too full. try that and post back.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> just release the top fill port on your res and let it bread a bit when system are running. just lose the top fill port do not remove it completely and your res is too full. try that and post back.


But the water shoots up into the res, if I take the top off while its running water will go everywhere.


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> How do I fix this? After 24 hours of running my loop the entire thing is filled with these micro-bubbles. I have shut it off and gotten rid of all the big bubbles, and tried topping off the res several times but after a few days my loop looks like this...
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/IMG_20130707_144629_663_zps2cc8bbab.jpg.html


Get rid of the kink at the bottom


----------



## pc-illiterate

OK. Problem. No leaks. PC powers right up. I get video for 15 seconds then it goes off. Restart and instantly get video back for 10-15 seconds then I lose it again. Any idea what the hell I did wrong or overlooked?


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> How do I fix this? After 24 hours of running my loop the entire thing is filled with these micro-bubbles. I have shut it off and gotten rid of all the big bubbles, and tried topping off the res several times but after a few days my loop looks like this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/IMG_20130707_144629_663_zps2cc8bbab.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get rid of the kink at the bottom
Click to expand...

Also, you can make one of these:

Fitting -> tubing -> syringe without the piston

attach to the top of the reservoir and suck hard on it (lol)

and say au revoir to long bleeding time and problems


----------



## skyn3t

damn EK res x3 won't accept Bitspower anti twister underneath







. I have to use a chrome adapter that comes with the EK res x3 with my black bitspower fittings not good if you ask me I wish I had not sold my other EK rex x2 I had no problem with that one. damn you EK next time you build something universal why not kept the same old styles without unification? where's is the EK rep so I can slap this crap thing on his face. [email protected]#$%^&*()*&$#@%R^&T**))_+(*&^%*&()_)+_()*&^% dang.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> But the water shoots up into the res, if I take the top off while its running water will go everywhere.


water is going from the bottom as an inlet and out the top?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> water is going from the bottom as an inlet and out the top?


No the in and out are on the same side, the bottom. I ordered some new fittings, I'm going to make the input on the top in a few days to see if that helps. Along with flushing everything and possibly changing out all the tubing.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> No the in and out are on the same side, the bottom. I ordered some new fittings, I'm going to make the input on the top in a few days to see if that helps. Along with flushing everything and possibly changing out all the tubing.


try just switching the inlet to the top and the outlet to the bottom, see if that helps at all.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> damn EK res x3 won't accept Bitspower anti twister underneath
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have to use a chrome adapter that comes with the EK res x3 with my black bitspower fittings not good if you ask me I wish I had not sold my other EK rex x2 I had no problem with that one. damn you EK next time you build something universal why not kept the same old styles without unification? where's is the EK rep so I can slap this crap thing on his face. [email protected]#$%^&*()*&$#@%R^&T**))_+(*&^%*&()_)+_()*&^% dang.


Because of the tube design, really the only size that clears is the 3/8x1/2 fittings. I had a 250 adv and the Frozenq reservoirs as well don't clear w/out adapters. They can't mill the end caps to accommodate larger fittings since it will take off a lot of material. So, in other words, its common w/ tube reservoirs


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> looking really good!new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/PJwRL#0


I only have one bad thing to say

WHY IS THE FRONT PANEL CORNEKTER'S NOT CORNEKTET !!!!!


----------



## pc-illiterate

OK. Top card is hitting 100-101*c then shutting itself off.
Swiftech uni blocks and swiftech ski bridge. Apparently I didn't get the top blockbled at all. Inlet and outlet on the top. Anyone with some help or advice on bleeding this thing?


----------



## PCBuilder94

My first loop is complete!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Because of the tube design, really the only size that clears is the 3/8x1/2 fittings. I had a 250 adv and the Frozenq reservoirs as well don't clear w/out adapters. They can't mill the end caps to accommodate larger fittings since it will take off a lot of material. So, in other words, its common w/ tube reservoirs


they sucked at the mill to our end. by they end it does looks well done when you use the stop plug it is nice and even. but when it comes to other brand adapter is about 1 to 2mm less this is why the BP anti twister won't fit. why why why? EK black extender I may need to pick one up or mill the freaking hole 1 to 2mm bigger.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> My first loop is complete!


NO GPU?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> My first loop is complete!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


you need to short those tubin. pump/res to cpu too much tubing there, rad to pump too much tubin too.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> NO GPU?


I'm on a crappy 720 monitor and I believe the Haswell IGPU should be strong enough. I'm gettin a 7970 or 9970 with a Qnix Evolution II next month or September. If I have enough money ill get a 780. IDK if ill wc my gpu in such a small case.


----------



## PCBuilder94

I realize that but I tried ahorter runs couldn't be done without kinks. I have great temps though.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> I realize that but I tried ahorter runs couldn't be done without kinks. I have great temps though.


which tubing are you using that is kinking if youre cutting it any shorter than it is in your picture?


----------



## Pis

July 2013 Updated:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> I'm on a crappy 720 monitor and I believe the Haswell IGPU should be strong enough. I'm gettin a 7970 or 9970 with a Qnix Evolution II next month or September. If I have enough money ill get a 780. IDK if ill wc my gpu in such a small case.


If you can buy a 9970 next month or September... (or even the 780/7970 which _actually exist_) you had probably better think about getting a decent monitor along with it!









Did you mean 7990 maybe?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> OK. Top card is hitting 100-101*c then shutting itself off.
> Swiftech uni blocks and swiftech ski bridge. Apparently I didn't get the top blockbled at all. Inlet and outlet on the top. Anyone with some help or advice on bleeding this thing?


Tip/shake the case while pump cycling... but you might want to try remounting that block if bleeding doesn't work almost immediately. If your rig is filled and bled properly (which really should be done during leak-testing without power to the MB+GPUs) then you shouldn't ever see those temps.

Either something is wrong with the loop, block (i.e. mount/TIM), or the card itself. Are those temps at idle?!?!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Yep that's at idle. Did all the tipping every which way and even shook it. I don't hear any air in the loop at all and figured the top block was air locked. Bottom 670 reads 70* so its either the mount or the blocks aren't making enough contact with the GPU. I'm wondering if there needs to be a shim in there. Where's that swiftech rep? Maybe he can find out tomorrow. 5 hours of leak testing and bleeding twice. This should be done and I should be checking temps...

*EDIT* oh hell no. Put a flashlight behind the blocks and cards. No flipping contact. Guess you're not supposed to use the plastic spacers on the mount bolts. I'm so mad at myself right now. Well tear it down and actually mount the blocks I guess...


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Yep that's at idle. Did all the tipping every which way and even shook it. I don't hear any air in the loop at all and figured the top block was air locked. Bottom 670 reads 70* so its either the mount or the blocks aren't making enough contact with the GPU. I'm wondering if there needs to be a shim in there. Where's that swiftech rep? Maybe he can find out tomorrow. 5 hours of leak testing and bleeding twice. This should be done and I should be checking temps...


Yeah something isn't right there - for that matter I wouldn't consider the 70C to be anything even close to normal for an idle temp on a blocked GPU. I have some very mediocre blocks on my 7970s (the original Razor) and under LOAD they don't get even close to those temps. I'd say either it's a design flaw, improper mounting - you took off any plastic protection layer and used the correct amount of TIM on the GPU core (i.e. not too much and not too little) correct? Something seems amiss in a major way - and I would definitely avoid further use until you can get in touch with Swiftech, or else you might damage the GPUs themselves.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Yep that's at idle. Did all the tipping every which way and even shook it. I don't hear any air in the loop at all and figured the top block was air locked. Bottom 670 reads 70* so its either the mount or the blocks aren't making enough contact with the GPU. I'm wondering if there needs to be a shim in there. Where's that swiftech rep? Maybe he can find out tomorrow. 5 hours of leak testing and bleeding twice. This should be done and I should be checking temps...
> 
> *EDIT* oh hell no. Put a flashlight behind the blocks and cards. No flipping contact. Guess you're not supposed to use the plastic spacers on the mount bolts. I'm so mad at myself right now. Well tear it down and actually mount the blocks I guess...


Let me know if the spacers work for you.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> If you can buy a 9970 next month or September... (or even the 780/7970 which _actually exist_) you had probably better think about getting a decent monitor along with it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you mean 7990 maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tip/shake the case while pump cycling... but you might want to try remounting that block if bleeding doesn't work almost immediately. If your rig is filled and bled properly (which really should be done during leak-testing without power to the MB+GPUs) then you shouldn't ever see those temps.
> 
> Either something is wrong with the loop, block (i.e. mount/TIM), or the card itself. Are those temps at idle?!?!


the 9970 is supposedly the end of next month and as I said I'm getting A Qnix Evolution II. but if the 9970 isn't out by then ill get a 7970 or two.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> the 9970 is supposedly the end of next month and as I said I'm getting A Qnix Evolution II. but if the 9970 isn't out by then ill get a 7970 or two.


If you're referring to the 'news articles' about it (like this or this) as your source then good luck with that... I'm not saying it definitely won't happen... but I've been through about 20 highly anticipated release cycles with all of the big chip companies in the last 25 years or so... and I've never yet seen one come out less than 6 months after _official_ press releases... and so far there isn't anything but silence from AMD other than a vague indication that it would be available "around the time BF4 gets released".

The 'leaked' images aren't even of a GPU core... and the others are mere speculation.

As far as the Qnix IPS panel... that should be just fine running on any of the mentioned GPUs so it really won't matter whether it's a 7970 (even single) or if the 9970 is actually out by then... but I'll be really surprised if AMD has 9970's in any type of quantity available before the holidays at the earliest. JMHO of course.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Let me know if the spacers work for you.


No bram, definitely not. Took off the plastic bushing/ spacer and used just the bolts n knurled nuts. Solid contact now. I don't even want anyone to know the gap between block n GPU was so big, I should have seen when I put them in the motherboard. Hell there was at least 1mm gap and possibly 2mm. I am an idiot.


----------



## Sunreeper

Anybody know if there's any water cooling stores located in Ohio?


----------



## Modest Mouse

Where are you at in Ohio? The only two I know of are Columbus and Cleveland. Both are Microcenters and their stock is fairly hit and miss. Check their website before making the trip there.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> Where are you at in Ohio? The only two I know of are Columbus and Cleveland. Both are Microcenters and their stock is fairly hit and miss. Check their website before making the trip there.


We're going to Cleveland. Families going there to see somebody there


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My TJ11 build is officially one year old now (though it recently underwent major reconstruction with the replacement of my 7970's with Titans) and it sucks that I can't really show off anything new around here! Problem is I'm really happy with the build and all the components and can't see replacing anything. I mean, I'd love a LD V8 case but not necessarily more so than my TJ11. meanwhile it looks like IB-E won't really be that much of a reason to ditch my 3960X, nothing is going to really surpass the Titans for a while and I don't even really have an excuse to change my loop setup as it is just how I want it as is. I guess this is the price for building the perfect rig in the first place; there's no need to change it! (kidding of course)


----------



## pc-illiterate

ahhh, they way they should be.

*EDIT* max in valley was 38* on both gpus. lets see what they do tomorrow. its bedtime.


----------



## Swag

Can someone construct me a wc build around $350 - $375 for CPU only watercooling? My only request is that the res will be a tube res.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Can someone construct me a wc build around $350 - $375 for CPU only watercooling? My only request is that the res will be a tube res.


That C70 isn't very space-friendly for watercooling, but here's a try:

XSPC Raystorm - $50
XSPC AX240 - $80
Bitspower Tank Z 150 - $36
MCP35X - $85
GT - AP-15 (2) - $30
Biocide - $4
Tubing (any) - $25
Barbs + clamps (8) (any) - $40
=========
Total - $350

You'll have to double check the height clearance at top for the AX240 to your mobo.


----------



## Swag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Can someone construct me a wc build around $350 - $375 for CPU only watercooling? My only request is that the res will be a tube res.
> 
> 
> 
> That C70 isn't very space-friendly for watercooling, but here's a try:
> 
> XSPC Raystorm - $50
> XSPC AX240 - $80
> Bitspower Tank Z 150 - $36
> MCP35X - $85
> GT - AP-15 (2) - $30
> Biocide - $4
> Tubing (any) - $25
> Barbs + clamps (8) (any) - $40
> =========
> Total - $350
> 
> You'll have to double check the height clearance at top for the AX240 to your mobo.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, I'll check on them right now and see how it'll fair.







Only thing that's hard for me to imagine is where would I put a pump...


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Sounds good, I'll check on them right now and see how it'll fair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing that's hard for me to imagine is where would I put a pump...


C70 has plenty of space for a decent water cooling setup. You can mount the pump similar the what I did. Water Tank Z 150 attached to an MCP35X with a dual G1/4 fitting and mounted to a 120 fan mount location on the HDD cage.


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> C70 has plenty of space for a decent water cooling setup. You can mount the pump similar the what I did. Water Tank Z 150 attached to an MCP35X with a dual G1/4 fitting and mounted to a 120 fan mount location on the HDD cage.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


if the LEDs where white ... this would had been a perfect build


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Sounds good, I'll check on them right now and see how it'll fair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing that's hard for me to imagine is where would I put a pump...
> 
> 
> 
> C70 has plenty of space for a decent water cooling setup. You can mount the pump similar the what I did. Water Tank Z 150 attached to an MCP35X with a dual G1/4 fitting and mounted to a 120 fan mount location on the HDD cage.
Click to expand...

That is really cool sebar. It looks like you took the pic in B&W


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I do love a C70,you can do so much.
Mine was the first seen with a 360 in the roof.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> C'est fini!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1407469/build-log-green-zilla-900d-wc-build-yes-another-one
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

You need a Supremacy with a green top wermad


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Do you have any pictures of the Oil Black?


Sorry for the delay. Turned out to be pretty busy over the weekend. My apologies.

Below you will find a series of photos that try and capture what I meant by the Oil Black being a bit like Ribena










I have read about the chocolate milk issues that have been encountered, but I have yet to experience any color change in my own loop.


*Pastel Pink, Pastel White, Pastel Black and X1 - Oil Black*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




*Primochill Advanced LRT 1/2-3/4 Clear.*

*Pastel Black, X1-Oil Black, Pastel White & Pastel Pink.*
*Fittings for color reference.*




*Pastel Black & X1-Oil Black side by side.*

*Pastel Black*

*Pastel Black*

*X1-Oil Black*

*X1-Oil Black*

*Pastel Pink*

*Pastel White*




*Ribena effect of the X1-Oil Black.*

*X1-Oil Black & Pastel Black ISO3200*




And, this is what all of the above looks like in white xspc tubing









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Hope you find those pictures useful in making your decision


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Sorry for the delay. Turned out to be pretty busy over the weekend. My apologies.
> 
> Below you will find a series of photos that try and capture what I meant by the Oil Black being a bit like Ribena
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have read about the chocolate milk issues that have been encountered, but I have yet to experience any color change in my own loop.
> 
> 
> *Pastel Pink, Pastel White, Pastel Black and X1 - Oil Black*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Primochill Advanced LRT 1/2-3/4 Clear.*
> 
> *Pastel Black, X1-Oil Black, Pastel White & Pastel Pink.*
> *Fittings for color reference.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pastel Black & X1-Oil Black side by side.*
> 
> *Pastel Black*
> 
> *Pastel Black*
> 
> *X1-Oil Black*
> 
> *X1-Oil Black*
> 
> *Pastel Pink*
> 
> *Pastel White*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ribena effect of the X1-Oil Black.*
> 
> *X1-Oil Black & Pastel Black ISO3200*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, this is what all of the above looks like in white xspc tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you find those pictures useful in making your decision


Thanks for that.

I like the look of the Oil Black. It looks a lot like well, oil. Will go well with my build.


----------



## _REAPER_

I just made it home and will have my build posted in the coming days. Thank God for Frozen CPU and 3 day shipping from the US to the Philippines because Corsair failed with this launch I am 5 days by boat from Taiwan and they could not get cases to the Philippines in time LOL. Oh well again FROZENCPU came to the rescue even on the 4th of July weekend they came through and for that I am grateful


----------



## Daredevil 720

Can't wait for tomorrow!







I've got a package worth 400 euros coming in, full of watercooling parts for my first loop.


----------



## ajs89

my new setup












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Namkab*
> 
> I get a little jealous of these h220s.. They are just so simple, effective and awesome.


It is a pity that I cannot get those in my country


----------



## protzman

Any july 4th ppcs coupon codes going on anyone know?


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> It is a pity that I cannot get those in my country


Ordering from germany might be an option?


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> looking really good!new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/PJwRL#0


Oh... Oh my.


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> looking really good!new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/PJwRL#0


Pure Computer Porn right there


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajs89*
> 
> my new setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet build. I love that neat cable management

Any reason for not choosing a bridge system on your graphic cards?


----------



## akiles333

Hey, i'm going to watercool cpu and two graphics cards and i was wondering whether to go for the jingway dp 4.0 or the alphacool vpp655? I'm also going to have two 240mm rads. is there any pump on this specific site that you would recommend instead? i just need a cheap pump that can handle this config.


----------



## ajs89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Sweet build. I love that neat cable management
> 
> Any reason for not choosing a bridge system on your graphic cards?


thanks...
Actually I Have No Specific Reason For Not Choosing Bridge System,just Like To find Way To Bend The Tube


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> Hey, i'm going to watercool cpu and two graphics cards and i was wondering whether to go for the jingway dp 4.0 or the alphacool vpp655? I'm also going to have two 240mm rads. is there any pump on this specific site that you would recommend instead? i just need a cheap pump that can handle this config.


655 all day long,jingway aint bad but they are no match for a Laing.

In other news,the first unibody prototype is done,slight deformation on the XT mount,the design has already been altered to fix tha issue.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Pure Computer Porn right there


I look at my current project and feel incredibly insignificant now....








But I'm a mortgage payment and SEVERAL car payments into this build already....I'll just have to settle for sexy instead of "smack your momma" amazing-ness


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 655 all day long,jingway aint bad but they are no match for a Laing.
> 
> In other news,the first unibody prototype is done,slight deformation on the XT mount,the design has already been altered to fix tha issue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I want that case.


----------



## Michalius

Vid for proof of concept, not yet completed:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlDoUdJRT3I


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 655 all day long,jingway aint bad but they are no match for a Laing.


yeah, i know.. but my question was; what is the cheapest pump that can handle that config?


----------



## Swag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do love a C70,you can do so much.
> Mine was the first seen with a 360 in the roof.


Haha, I remember yours.







Which pump do you have?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do love a C70,you can do so much.
> Mine was the first seen with a 360 in the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, I remember yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which pump do you have?
Click to expand...

There can be only one.

D5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 655 all day long,jingway aint bad but they are no match for a Laing.
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, i know.. but my question was; what is the cheapest pump that can handle that config?
Click to expand...

Jingway.

The 655 is a superior pump and ,as you had that as an option,it would be my choice.

Pretty sure your question was answered the first time.....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> Hey, i'm going to watercool cpu and two graphics cards and i was wondering whether to go for the *jingway dp 4.0 or the alphacool vpp655?*
Click to expand...


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jingway.
> 
> The 655 is a superior pump and ,as you had that as an option,it would be my choice.
> 
> Pretty sure your question was answered the first time.....


okay.. would this work for my config then? http://www.aquatuning.no/product_info.php/info/p7494_DC12-400-12Volt-Pump.html
The block are; ek supreme ltx (cpu), and dual 780 ek blocks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jingway.
> 
> The 655 is a superior pump and ,as you had that as an option,it would be my choice.
> 
> Pretty sure your question was answered the first time.....
> 
> 
> 
> okay.. would this work for my config then? http://www.aquatuning.no/product_info.php/info/p7494_DC12-400-12Volt-Pump.html
> The block are; ek supreme ltx (cpu), and dual 780 ek blocks.
Click to expand...

Yes,its not a bad pump,its not as long lived as a Laing pump and is noisier but the performance is not bad


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,its not a bad pump,its not as long lived as a Laing pump and is noisier but the performance is not bad


this one then? http://www.aquatuning.no/product_info.php/info/p11282_Phobya-DC12-220-12Volt-Pump.html


----------



## pc-illiterate

im loving my ek dcp 4.0 with the res. this baby is all i need for now. next thing i buy will be a 35x and vrm blocks.
*EDIT*- i cant hear my pump over my fans and they arent loud at all.**
yes its a cell phone pic outside against a white fence. im not a photographer. yes i still need to work on the cables. im replacing a few so its bad for now. look better than my first go 'round? lol


and this is a bad alphacool fitting


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,its not a bad pump,its not as long lived as a Laing pump and is noisier but the performance is not bad
> 
> 
> 
> this one then? http://www.aquatuning.no/product_info.php/info/p11282_Phobya-DC12-220-12Volt-Pump.html
Click to expand...

Its the same pump...all those pumps are Jingway just rebranded.


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the same pump...all those pumps are Jingway just rebranded.


No? thats the equivalent of a ek dcp 2.0 and the other one a dcp 4.0


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the same pump...all those pumps are Jingway just rebranded.
> 
> 
> 
> No? thats the equivalent of a ek dcp 2.0 and the other one a dcp 4.0
Click to expand...

Get the most powerful available.


----------



## skyn3t

MCP35X2 Housing for MCP355 missing wires for speed control.

I had bought me a MCP35X2 Housing for my MCP355, but I already had the MCP355's doing nothing in shelf for couple of month's.

I was looking at the *MCP35X2 Housing pump installation guide* and o saw the MCP35x has 4 wires, two yellow,one black and one blue. but both of my pump only has three wires, yellow,black and blue. as you can see below



I have a free spot to solder another wire. the question is can I add another wire there? what wire goes there? If i solder another wire there is will work like the MCP35X pump?

The MCP35X use the same PCB as the MCP355 both are DDC 3.1



I found the lef pic at martinsliquidlab.org/ and I flipped the pic to make things easy. The MCP35X has a different color wire beside the yellow wire. if I solder this wire that I'll be able to control both of my pump to mobo header.

Left to right

1 - 12v - Yellow
2 - PWM control - Green in the first pic and grey in the second pic.
3 - RPM sensor - Blue
4 - Ground - Black





Fan header look below.


I had goggled all morning but i can't find anything that proves me that it will work and I was thinking if any of you know this mod.

PS: I don't want to spend money in pump speed control I just want things simple my mobo header or software.

MCP355 on Apogee with PWM control wire see the pic below. same pcb as the mcp35X and DDC 3.1 version.


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> try swapping out the adapter with the other one from the second card. This will let you know if its a bad adapter or maybe something is weird with first block. Power on only the pump and don't plug any power connector to the mb or gpu(s).
> 
> To jump your psu, grab a large paperclip and bend it into a "U" shape. Facing the clip on the mb's 24-pin cable, find the green cable, insert one leg of the paperclip and the other into any ground (black).


So I finally got around to do some leak testing today and my newest 7970 is the culprit of the leak. I tried switching up the FC link blocks but nothing helps. then after a little inspection i realized that the mounting area where the O-rings go of the two cards are slightly different. is it supposed to be like this or is it a production error? advice / tips appreciated.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Sorry for ****ty pictures, my camera was having major problems with the auto focus.

http://i.imgur.com/yK35kxjh.jpg (leaky card)
http://i.imgur.com/v3MpZYsh.jpg (leaky card)
http://i.imgur.com/bSDU2Phh.jpg (leaky card)
http://i.imgur.com/z0BF4Q8h.jpg (the non leaky card)
http://i.imgur.com/rnRR3dzh.jpg (the non leaky card)


----------



## pc-illiterate

is it just me or do those threads look like someone cut them with razor knife?


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> is it just me or do those threads look like someone cut them with razor knife?


The threads are just fine, if we are thinking about the same thing. I am more curious about the circles around the holes. They are perfectly circular and the depth is consistant like it was made like that from production, but how come my other card isn't like that?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> So I finally got around to do some leak testing today and my newest 7970 is the culprit of the leak. I tried switching up the FC link blocks but nothing helps. then after a little inspection i realized that the mounting area where the O-rings go of the two cards are slightly different. is it supposed to be like this or is it a production error? advice / tips appreciated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for ****ty pictures, my camera was having major problems with the auto focus.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/yK35kxjh.jpg (leaky card)
> http://i.imgur.com/v3MpZYsh.jpg (leaky card)
> http://i.imgur.com/bSDU2Phh.jpg (leaky card)
> http://i.imgur.com/z0BF4Q8h.jpg (the non leaky card)
> http://i.imgur.com/rnRR3dzh.jpg (the non leaky card)


It looks like they milled the "CSQ" circle design over the ports which is a no-no. The port should have a bit of flat space around the opening to ensure the o-ring compresses and seals. Pm the EK rep here and they may just send you a new top. Good luck buddy


----------



## wermad

Double post









See how it should have a flat surrounding surface (ie gtx 670 block):


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> is it just me or do those threads look like someone cut them with razor knife?


If it bothers you,hit it with thread lock.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajs89*
> 
> my new setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build!
What about those AirPenetrators?


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If it bothers you,hit it with thread lock.


Be careful what thread lock you use as most are for metal only. I think the whole Loctite line is for metal only.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If it bothers you,hit it with thread lock.
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful what thread lock you use as most are for metal only. I think the whole Loctite line is for metal only.
Click to expand...

Really,i use it a lot and have noticed no issues?


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Really,i use it a lot and have noticed no issues?


Just relaying my experience









Edit added link to Loctite http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm


----------



## Xyrrath

Loctite is like a cat if it fits it sits









Just don't try to remove the barbs if the block is plastic/acryll

On the side:

If my EK-FC-Titan XXL is still in backorder tommorow i am gonna write a really angry mail to my webshop. Saying 3 days on their site and explaining that if it takes longer they will inform you well guess what after 8 working days still no word from these people


----------



## chino1974

Guys does anyone know how I can get in touch with an alphacool rep ? I bought a vpp655 pump at the microcenter in paterson n.j. while on vacation. WhenI got back home I found its not working. I called the Cambridge mass microcenter and was told they wouldnt give me an exchange because it was a store out of state. (Which I have no idea why it would matter since its a chain) So I tried filling an rma ticket on alphacools website but its in german. I have tried getting in touch with a rep all over to no avail. Amy help directing me to someone I can talk to would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys does anyone know how I can get in touch with an alphacool rep ? I bought a vpp655 pump at the microcenter in paterson n.j. while on vacation. WhenI got back home I found its not working. I called the Cambridge mass microcenter and was told they wouldnt give me an exchange because it was a store out of state. (Which I have no idea why it would matter since its a chain) So I tried filling an rma ticket on alphacools website but its in german. I have tried getting in touch with a rep all over to no avail. Amy help directing me to someone I can talk to would be greatly appreciated.


do you still have the purchase invoice? CC# in hands? if you do you just walk to they store and they are obligate to change it for you. I used to leave in Maryland MD and working at Virginia VA I had two Micro Center on my way to work I had done tons of returning and exchange @ Micro center MD to Va OR VA to MD, it takes 24 hours so the store can see your purchase out of state that's what they told me and it is the truth. by the phone they going to denied you.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajs89*
> 
> my new setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wait is that ek blode red you are useing ???


----------



## Michalius

I just wanted to say that I placed an order with Frozen CPU 30 minutes before they closed. 5:30 EST, 2:30 my time.

I'm in a bit of a rush to get it as PDXLAN is this weekend, and I want my build completed before Thursday (when I pack up). Did overnight shipping. They stayed late and got my order out for delivery tomorrow. That is some seriously good service right there.


----------



## derickwm

Always good to hear stories like that


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I just wanted to say that I placed an order with Frozen CPU 30 minutes before they closed. 5:30 EST, 2:30 my time.
> 
> I'm in a bit of a rush to get it as PDXLAN is this weekend, and I want my build completed before Thursday (when I pack up). Did overnight shipping. They stayed late and got my order out for delivery tomorrow. That is some seriously good service right there.


frozencpu has excellent employees, my first order i made with them got lost by usps, completely the mail deliverys fault, frozencpu could have told me to f off if they wanted to when i asked for a free replacement but instead they overnighted the new shipment and even added in some free stuff. great guys.


----------



## wermad

I got a free ppcs.com shirt due to late inventory arrival. Damn.....where did I leave it......hope wife didn't toss it in the donation box (noooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!).


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got a free ppcs.com shirt due to late inventory arrival. Damn.....where did I leave it......hope wife didn't toss it in the donation box (noooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!).


D: that would suck lol

lately (last 3 orders i made from ppcs) has been a day or two late, i dont know whats going on with them but its kind of dissapointing really, i order from them because i live a few hours from them and love supporting florida companies especially ones that support my hobby, but really at this rate it would be faster for me to drive to them and pick up the packages myself instead of wondering if they forgot to send my package again.


----------



## wermad

I placed my order on the previous sunday and it left monday morning. It arrived on wednesday right before the holiday. I do love they're always on top of things. Frozencpu has been pretty awesome too.


----------



## pc-illiterate

hey guys, might need some cooling for a 980x and ga-x58a-ud3r. those and 6gb of dominator ram was my awesome craigslist find. it was in an old nzxt case without a side panel or front bezel along with an ultra 1200watt chrome psu and 2 evga 216 core 260s. guy sold it to me for $20. i cried when i pulled the hyper 212+ hiding the 980x. what an awesome find.
now its, h100 on the 2500k and move my loop over to the x58 set-up or put the 980x where no chip of its caliber should be, under an all-in-one. pics will follow.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hey guys, might need some cooling for a 980x and ga-x58a-ud3r. those and 6gb of dominator ram was my awesome craigslist find. it was in an old nzxt case without a side panel or front bezel along with an ultra 1200watt chrome psu and 2 evga 216 core 260s. guy sold it to me for $20. i cried when i pulled the hyper 212+ hiding the 980x. what an awesome find.
> now its, h100 on the 2500k and move my loop over to the x58 set-up or put the 980x where no chip of its caliber should be, under an all-in-one. pics will follow.


Wow, what a score! I hear about these crazy craigslist scores. Most of them are ppl selling stuff they probably have no idea what it is and how much its worth. Some are scorned ex-spouses/partners









Most blocks are ready for lga1366. You can always sell both your cpu's and x58 board (and ram) and go w/ a 3930k


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hey guys, might need some cooling for a 980x and ga-x58a-ud3r. those and 6gb of dominator ram was my awesome craigslist find. it was in an old nzxt case without a side panel or front bezel along with an ultra 1200watt chrome psu and 2 evga 216 core 260s. guy sold it to me for $20. i cried when i pulled the hyper 212+ hiding the 980x. what an awesome find.
> now its, h100 on the 2500k and move my loop over to the x58 set-up or put the 980x where no chip of its caliber should be, under an all-in-one. pics will follow.


That's awesome, my local craigslist is horrible. Everyone tries to sell stuff for $20 less than they paid in 2009. A guy was asking $160 for his GTX 460 768MB, I offered him $70 and he called me an a-hole.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's awesome, my local craigslist is horrible. Everyone tries to sell stuff for $20 less than they paid in 2009. A guy was asking $160 for his GTX 460 768MB, I offered him $70 and he called me an a-hole.


Ouch, over here in DFW I managed to snag a Feser 360 rad in solid condition for only $40. Was a steal, and a heck of a good rad considering I'm planning on custom cooling my build (after having enough crap dealing with air and this XSPC kit I got. My wallet is going to weep).


----------



## stickg1

What are you guys' opinions on universal GPU waterblocks. My current card has a custom PCB. Should I switch out the card or are uni blocks decent?


----------



## pc-illiterate

my swiftech unis are awesome. just installed last night i couldnt be happier.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> my swiftech unis are awesome. just installed last night i couldnt be happier.


What do you use to cool memory and VRMs?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What do you use to cool memory and VRMs?


Hestsinks and make sure you have some air flow to them


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What do you use to cool memory and VRMs?


Memory doesn't really matter, it is the VRMs that need cooling. And I've just used cheap aluminum sinks. But I always replace the thermal tape w/ 3M stuff. Make sure you clean the VRMs good w/ alcohol before hand.


----------



## pc-illiterate

for now i have the original aluminum vrm heatsinks and added fans to the front side of the cards. 92mm blows half n half, top fan blades cooling the asus and the bottom blades doing the gb. so happy for salvaged fans


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's awesome, my local craigslist is horrible. Everyone tries to sell stuff for $20 less than they paid in 2009. A guy was asking $160 for his GTX 460 768MB, I offered him $70 and he called me an a-hole.


This is what I usually find as well... when I place an ad for a $2500 leather sectional for which I'm asking $1K obo (and it's flawless other than the normal wear lines that leather gets over 5 years)... all the callers are versions of this: "Can I send my cousin over to pick it up? I'm not in town at the moment, but I'll pay you $200 for it?" (that's assuming they can even speak English). Or "I've got $125 cash on me now... can I hold it until I get paid next Friday... then I'll give you another $125..."

However when I call on a non-HDMI AVR with an original retail price of $500 which they are asking $450obo for and I offer them $350 cash... I have to just hang up on all the cursing about trying to rip them off coming through the phone.


----------



## verydispleased

For my 2nd post ever I wish to join this club too!

EK Supremacy Clean Clear CSQ
EK Acetal Nickel 7970 w/ backplate
EK 240 Coolstream XT
EK X3 240 res
EK D5 Pumptop
Phobia 200mm Rad
1/2 x 3/4 Primochill Advanced LRT
Mayhems Blood Red X1
Various EK and Bitspower fittings
Lamptron Cw611
Corsair SP120 fans
Bitfenix 200mm Fans


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verydispleased*
> 
> For my 2nd post ever I wish to join this club too!


Looks very clean and nice (or will once the towels from leak testing are removed)! Good job!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> This is what I usually find as well... when I place an ad for a $2500 leather sectional for which I'm asking $1K obo (and it's flawless other than the normal wear lines that leather gets over 5 years)... all the callers are versions of this: "Can I send my cousin over to pick it up? I'm not in town at the moment, but I'll pay you $200 for it?" (that's assuming they can even speak English). Or "I've got $125 cash on me now... can I hold it until I get paid next Friday... then I'll give you another $125..."
> 
> However when I call on a non-HDMI AVR with an original retail price of $500 which they are asking $450obo for and I offer them $350 cash... I have to just hang up on all the cursing about trying to rip them off coming through the phone.


I've given up on craigslist because I constantly get "I am purchasing this for my brother's uncle's niece's son's daughter studying to be an Airforce mechanic while teaching kids in Africa while also studying abroad. I will give you $100 extra if you remove the listing. I will pay using the super safe method of PayPal. If you do not already have an account, sign up for one here."

Kill me now... plus, there is like nothing on the local craigslist.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## pc-illiterate

ok, pics of the steal from craigs






sorry only 1 evga sc 216 core 260. the other is just an evga vanilla ssc 260


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Can't wait for tomorrow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a package worth 400 euros coming in, full of watercooling parts for my first loop.


Same. Except its the second half of my wc parts and about 170 euros worth. 215 USD to be exact.








I think I've become addicted to the refresh button to see when my package will arrive @ my cities UPS location.


----------



## ajs89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Wait is that ek blode red you are useing ???


Yup, thats ek blood red coolant


----------



## ajs89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> Nice build!
> What about those AirPenetrators?


Thanks..
Im not using those fans,







.. One of the fans actually broken, so i also removed the 2nd one.. And i in my country, i cant find a retailer that sells that air penetrators fans


----------



## Kires

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I've given up on craigslist because I constantly get "I am purchasing this for my brother's uncle's niece's son's daughter studying to be an Airforce mechanic while teaching kids in Africa while also studying abroad. I will give you $100 extra if you remove the listing. I will pay using the super safe method of PayPal. If you do not already have an account, sign up for one here."
> 
> Kill me now... plus, there is like nothing on the local craigslist.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I totally hear ya!! I hate those cause you always think, OH someone wants to buy my stuffs! ....and then it turns out to be one of those peoples...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I run my Alphacool VPP-655 in my loop nearly 24-7 and haven't had any issues so far in over a year. Great pump that is plenty powerful, reliable, and quiet....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verydispleased*
> 
> For my 2nd post ever I wish to join this club too!


Nice looking rig! I live in Georgia too (Saint Simons Island).


----------



## rmcknight36

Beautiful and clean


----------



## Sunreeper

Is it better to go with a thick radiator or a slim one with push pull ? I can either fit an alphacool ut60 with one set of fans or an alphacool xt45 in push pull


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Is it better to go with a thick radiator or a slim one with push pull ? I can either fit an alphacool ut60 with one set of fans or an alphacool xt45 in push pull


Based on results from here:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/

I think for low RPM (600-1000) UT with one layer of fans will be the same or even slightly worse than XT with two layers (I'm not referring to lower restrictions of UT, just thermal performance).
For higher speeds (especially >2000rpm) - my guess is that UT with one layer of fans will be more effective than XT with two - I guess benefits of second fan layer on slim rad will be minimal.

This is how I understand it, I may be wrong.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Is it better to go with a thick radiator or a slim one with push pull ? I can either fit an alphacool ut60 with one set of fans or an alphacool xt45 in push pull


http://www.coolingtechnique.com/en-reviews/98-radiators/914-alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-120mm-and-360mm-full-copper-review.html?start=6

*From the CoolingTechnique.com Review*

*Alphacool NexXxos XT45 120mm and 360mm Full Copper Review*
Quote:


> Unexpected but true, XT45 are amazing.
> Starting from the single fan, its performance is even higher in a "tangible" than the higher-end model UT60 least to the very low RPM, with a gap of about 0,6° to 0,3° and 600 RPM to 800 RPM; go up with the RPM the gap is thinning and disappearing, with the UT60 single fan who manages to overcome his younger brother, but only a few hundredths of a degree, so minor difference.
> The same situation is found in the triple fans model where the gap always in favor of the XT series settles on 0,3/0,4° to 600 RPM to 800 RPM and a tenth of a degree, with the RPMs going up here too the gap disappears, advantage of the new model that does not come UT60 but never above the tenth of a degree.
> A real surprise to discover the essential equality of the two radiators we have an advantage with the XT45 at low RPM than the High-end brother, probably the reduced thickness compared to the UT60 series promotes a better draft of air at low RPMs, which will determine the superior performance.
> Seeing the performance of triple fans radiator we are also not too far from the performance of a G-Changer 360, with a gap to 0,6 to 1°C at low RPM, therefore first class performance.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Is the XSPC EX240 crossflow radiator any good? Want an intake at the back of the case from the cpu block and then an output at the front of the case to the bay res.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Updates for mine...
out with the AMD 1090T and in with the i5 4670k, MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming mobo, Gskill Trident X 16gb and Mayhems new pastel red


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is the XSPC EX240 crossflow radiator any good? Want an intake at the back of the case from the cpu block and then an output at the front of the case to the bay res.


the XSPC EX240 is a nice and thin rad with a lot ports. It does performance well. I had one of those in my HTPC with 25k at 4.8GHz it did the job I had only in push configuration with a low rpm Yate Loon 120x25mm D12SL-12 Red LED Case Fan - 38.5 CFM, 25.4 dBA what is your system info?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Updates for mine...
> out with the AMD 1090T and in with the i5 4670k, MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming mobo, Gskill Trident X 16gb and Mayhems new pastel red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice setup you got there. can you tell me what you thing about this beastly red MSI mobo?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> the XSPC EX240 is a nice and thin rad with a lot ports. It does performance well. I had one of those in my HTPC with 25k at 4.8GHz it did the job I had only in push configuration with a low rpm Yate Loon 120x25mm D12SL-12 Red LED Case Fan - 38.5 CFM, 25.4 dBA what is your system info?


I'll just be cooling an OC'ed i5-3570K. It will be in a Arc midi R2 so I have plenty of room for a thicker radiator though. Are there any other crossflow radiators available ? It would make my build look so much cleaner.


----------



## ChaosAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> *From the CoolingTechnique.com Review*
> 
> *Alphacool NexXxos XT45 120mm and 360mm Full Copper Review*


I have to admit i didnt expect the XT to be equal with the UT. I was thinking to upgrade my TC PA120.3 with the UT60 420, but after reading this, XT45 with 4xAP15 seems the best solution.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Based on results from here:
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/
> 
> I think for low RPM (600-1000) UT with one layer of fans will be the same or even slightly worse than XT with two layers (I'm not referring to lower restrictions of UT, just thermal performance).
> For higher speeds (especially >2000rpm) - my guess is that UT with one layer of fans will be more effective than XT with two - I guess benefits of second fan layer on slim rad will be minimal.
> 
> This is how I understand it, I may be wrong.


You're correct - however the difference starts being apparent long before 2K RPM. Either one is a great rad and will work well even with slower fans (the XT is just better if you're dedicated to _always_ running slow fans).

In general get as thick as you can fit and put some faster fans on it (one set) - then use a fan controller to make them 'comfortable' when you're not benching or gaming hard... and crank them up when you do. Although not as efficient at lower speeds (<1000RPM) the UT60s are able to get rid of plenty of heat (I'd run mine at ~700RPM push only and I still had deltas in the 5C range under normal use). If you value quiet, and you're only going to have one rad - go with the XT45... if you want the best cooling possible - get the UT60 and 1800RPM+ fans with great static pressure... and then run them at a lower speed when you want silence.


----------



## Sunreeper

Thanks for all the answers. I'm probably gonna run these rads with sp120s set at 1000rpm. I think that one of the biggest benefits to water cooling is silence especially when gaming and because of that the option to go with high-speed fans is null so I guess I'll go push pull with the xt45. I do intend to have a 120mm monsta as well so I guess I'll have to have it in push pull or the performance will be similar to the ut60


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I'll just be cooling an OC'ed i5-3570K. It will be in a Arc midi R2 so I have plenty of room for a thicker radiator though. Are there any other crossflow radiators available ? It would make my build look so much cleaner.


not that I know, I wish XSPC had the rx 360 crossflow rad it will going to reduce the tubing length and make some loop much cleaner look.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> *From the CoolingTechnique.com Review*
> 
> *Alphacool NexXxos XT45 120mm and 360mm Full Copper Review*
> 
> 
> 
> I have to admit i didnt expect the XT to be equal with the UT. I was thinking to upgrade my TC PA120.3 with the UT60 420, but after reading this, XT45 with 4xAP15 seems the best solution.
Click to expand...

I tried a number of combinations with my sig rig for the best results and have found that 45mm-50mm rads with Fans of between 3.0-3.5mmH2O static pressure deliver the best results. (unless you want to use 'mosta rads with fans that usually exceed the noise preference for most people'
I am using
1 x XT 120mm x 45mm x 360mm with CM Excalibur/ 120mm @ 3.53mmH2O SP
1 x XT 120mmx x 45mm x 240mm with CM Excalibur/ 120mm @ 3.53mmH2O SP
1 x XT 120mm X 45mm x 240mm with CM Excalibur /120mm @ 3.53mmH2O SP
1 X XT 120mm x 45mm x 120mm with CM Excalibur /120mm @ 3.53mmH2O SP
Cooling a FX-8350 clocked at 5.3GHz max 56c @ P95 load /OCCT/IBT
4 x HD 7970 Quadfire OC Max 37c under load (parallel cooled)

I have found the 45mm-50mm Radiators to be the most efficient option.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Hey guys, my parts arrived today and I'm in the process of setting it all up.

I warmed up some distilled water, made an 85% distilled water - 15% white vinegar solution and tried flushing the XSPC AX240 rad and EK Supremacy block. Initially I shook it and drained instantly, with very little stuff coming out. Then I refilled with my solution and left it there for like 30-45 minutes, flushed and nothing came out.

Am I doing something wrong here or could they be already clean? The block is pretty shiny inside, but the rad doesn't shine that much.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Hey guys, my parts arrived today and I'm in the process of setting it all up.
> 
> I warmed up some distilled water, made an 85% distilled water - 15% white vinegar solution and tried flushing the XSPC AX240 rad and EK Supremacy block. Initially I shook it and drained instantly, with very little stuff coming out. Then I refilled with my solution and left it there for like 30-45 minutes, flushed and nothing came out.
> 
> Am I doing something wrong here or could they be already clean? The block is pretty shiny inside, but the rad doesn't shine that much.


Do not use acid for cleaning rads or blocks,rad flux is water soluble,acid will do nothing but damage the solder.
Run hot water thru it,I tend to leave the tap running in one of the ports while the other port acts as a drain.


----------



## jiJa

some polishing on the ek-bridge.
still not the final way to go but here you got some inspiration, how it could look like.
after seeing the pics of polished ek cpu-blocks i cant stop my fingers on the bridge.








sry for the poor picture quality, just an quick and dirty handypic.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> nice setup you got there. can you tell me what you thing about this beastly red MSI mobo?


Thanks skyn3t. I mainly game, and I can definitely see improvements - lots smoother..
The mobo.. good and bad and ugly..
*The Good* Bios is great, overclocking etc is just so simple.
i.e. I updated the bios, set the date, set the cpu to 48x, volts to 1.3 and the xmp on - and that was it, cpu runs at 4800, memory at 2400







(max temp low 50's with low fans, it's high 20's ambient)

*The Bad*







USB3 barely runs any of my bits, just seems like there's not enough power at the sockets..
G19 keyboard and razer deathadder mouse run ok, and my g930 headset work fine
I mean my htc one x phone, nope, device not recognised
cruiser voyager usb3 stick, yup, but only in the usb2 ports
my usb dvb-t2 tv tuner - nope
rocksmith guitar cable - nope
Canon printer - nope
(I'm on to tech support about the problems, just hope it's a "switch" needs flicking in the bios lol)

*The Ugly* WHY OH WHY put a bloody bright blue led in the middle of something that is so obviously trying to be a red motherboard!
..oh and the audio boost lighting is a bit ghey pink

Verdict: a good looking motherboard with great features for the price (if you want red)


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Thanks skyn3t. I mainly game, and I can definitely see improvements - lots smoother..
> The mobo.. good and bad and ugly..
> *The Good* Bios is great, overclocking etc is just so simple.
> i.e. I updated the bios, set the date, set the cpu to 48x, volts to 1.3 and the xmp on - and that was it, cpu runs at 4800, memory at 2400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (max temp low 50's with low fans, it's high 20's ambient)
> 
> *The Bad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> USB3 barely runs any of my bits, just seems like there's not enough power at the sockets..
> G19 keyboard and razer deathadder mouse run ok, and my g930 headset work fine
> I mean my htc one x phone, nope, device not recognised
> cruiser voyager usb3 stick, yup, but only in the usb2 ports
> my usb dvb-t2 tv tuner - nope
> rocksmith guitar cable - nope
> Canon printer - nope
> (I'm on to tech support about the problems, just hope it's a "switch" needs flicking in the bios lol)
> 
> *The Ugly* WHY OH WHY put a bloody bright blue led in the middle of something that is so obviously trying to be a red motherboard!
> ..oh and the audio boost lighting is a bit ghey pink
> 
> Verdict: a good looking motherboard with great features for the price (if you want red)


reason to ask because I love red








thanks for you replay



almost done.

*RED*









@ wermad. did you know what this is ?


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ok, pics of the steal from ...
> sorry only 1 evga sc 216 core 260. the other is just an evga vanilla ssc 260


You should ask him for half of your money back.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I'll just be cooling an OC'ed i5-3570K. It will be in a Arc midi R2 so I have plenty of room for a thicker radiator though. Are there any other crossflow radiators available ? It would make my build look so much cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> *not that I know*, I wish XSPC had the rx 360 crossflow rad it will going to reduce the tubing length and make some loop much cleaner look.
Click to expand...

?! D:
don't forget Black Ice!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> ?! D:
> don't forget Black Ice!


I totally forgot about Black ice GT


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I totally forgot about Black ice GT


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Thanks! I'll take a look at those.


----------



## jiJa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Thanks skyn3t. I mainly game, and I can definitely see improvements - lots smoother..
> The mobo.. good and bad and ugly..
> *The Good* Bios is great, overclocking etc is just so simple.
> i.e. I updated the bios, set the date, set the cpu to 48x, volts to 1.3 and the xmp on - and that was it, cpu runs at 4800, memory at 2400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (max temp low 50's with low fans, it's high 20's ambient)
> 
> *The Bad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> USB3 barely runs any of my bits, just seems like there's not enough power at the sockets..
> G19 keyboard and razer deathadder mouse run ok, and my g930 headset work fine
> I mean my htc one x phone, nope, device not recognised
> cruiser voyager usb3 stick, yup, but only in the usb2 ports
> my usb dvb-t2 tv tuner - nope
> rocksmith guitar cable - nope
> Canon printer - nope
> (I'm on to tech support about the problems, just hope it's a "switch" needs flicking in the bios lol)
> 
> *The Ugly* WHY OH WHY put a bloody bright blue led in the middle of something that is so obviously trying to be a red motherboard!
> ..oh and the audio boost lighting is a bit ghey pink
> 
> Verdict: a good looking motherboard with great features for the price (if you want red)


bro first of all its not blue its white
second as i said its no final pic, its quick and dirty shoot on woorking process, so yes this is gonna be fixed of corse.
and last but not least the mosfetcooler gonna be changed cause its fckn ugly like your compliment " the ugly"


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sumner Rol*
> 
> Got around to shortening my lines. I had left them long since it was my first custom loop and I wanted to have material to work with in case I messed something up. So here's the before:
> 
> And the after:


i think your CPU inlet and outlet are the wrong way around, Or mine are


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Thanks! I'll take a look at those.


Shoulda linked it in the first place, sorry! Skyn3t's got your back, lol.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> i think your CPU inlet and outlet are the wrong way around, Or mine are


Maybe his block is flipped in comparison to yours? If I was him I'd flip it to make the runs make more sense, though.
Plus i'd shorten that run from the res, make it go in one of the top ports of the D5 top.

Edit: If the in is at the top, he's got it right.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jiJa*
> 
> some polishing on the ek-bridge.
> still not the final way to go but here you got some inspiration, how it could look like.
> after seeing the pics of polished ek cpu-blocks i cant stop my fingers on the bridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sry for the poor picture quality, just an quick and dirty handypic.


Don't stop now. Put a bit more elbow grease in to it and you can have it crystal clear. If you can't read text through the block it isn't good enough.


----------



## mangoloid

Here is my first WC built. Simple but performing well





CPU (4770K 4.6ghz) temps ~30C idle
GPU (780 overclocked) ~31C idle
Everything controlled with Koolance TMS-200 control system


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mangoloid*
> 
> Here is my first WC built. Simple but performing well
> 
> 
> CPU (4770K 4.6ghz) temps ~30C idle
> GPU (780 overclocked) ~31C idle
> Everything controlled with Koolance TMS-200 control system


Thats awesome for a first build. Hell its awesome for a 20th build!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mangoloid*
> 
> Here is my first WC built. Simple but perfoming well
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER
> CPU (4770K 4.6ghz) temps ~30C idle
> GPU (780 overclocked) ~31C idle
> Everything controlled with Koolance TMS-200 control system


The drain line is inspired on BHD rev 1 by me







in 2011 I think. But any ways good wok for the firts time you did very well.


----------



## stickg1

I don't know the technical term for the silver tube that was in my res, but I drained my loop, flushed it all, replaced the tube with the included bitspower cyclone bit, and my micro-bubbles seem to be no more! Although I'm only an hour in, but before with the silver tube my loop was saturated with bubbles in an hour.

Since I'm new to WC, I will assume I was not using the silver tube properly, either that or it's worthless.









BEFORE:


AFTER:


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I don't know the technical term for the silver tube that was in my res, but I drained my loop, flushed it all, replaced the tube with the included bitspower cyclone bit, and my micro-bubbles seem to be no more! Although I'm only an hour in, but before with the silver tube my loop was saturated with bubbles in an hour.
> 
> Since I'm new to WC, I will assume I was not using the silver tube properly, either that or it's worthless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE:
> 
> 
> AFTER:


The silver tube is for use if you are running the inlet from the top. Helps reduce/stop the splashing sound

example in my build

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09835_zps40a5edd6.jpg.html


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> The silver tube is for use if you are running the inlet from the top. Helps reduce/stop the splashing sound
> 
> example in my build
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09835_zps40a5edd6.jpg.html


This may have been asked before, but do the micro-bubbles in the tube res affect the fluid running through the loop? (i.e. Do the little bubbles cause bubbles throughout the loop?)


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jiJa*
> 
> some polishing on the ek-bridge.
> still not the final way to go but here you got some inspiration, how it could look like.
> after seeing the pics of polished ek cpu-blocks i cant stop my fingers on the bridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sry for the poor picture quality, just an quick and dirty handypic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't stop now. Put a bit more elbow grease in to it and you can have it crystal clear. If you can't read text through the block it isn't good enough.
Click to expand...

May you please make us a guide I'm really intrigued on how to do this and your images look amazing. Teach me your ways!!!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> The silver tube is for use if you are running the inlet from the top. Helps reduce/stop the splashing sound
> 
> example in my build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09835_zps40a5edd6.jpg.html


That makes sense, I have both the input and output on the bottom currently until I get some angled fittings. The tube was shooting the input like a jetstream straight towards the air pocket at the top of the res and mixing that air into the loop. (This is the explanation I have come up with anyway)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> May you please make us a guide I'm really intrigued on how to do this and your images look amazing. Teach me your ways!!!


Check this guys polishing:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313632/ek-supremacy-as-it-should-be
Quote:


>


I'm sure it will work even if you leave the csq circles on there.


----------



## lowfat

L3p has a guide on YouTube as well. The only sandpaper you would use is 2000 grit.. Then I polished with Autosol.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> L3p has a guide on YouTube as well. The only sandpaper you would use is 2000 grit.. Then I polished with Autosol.


Thanks +rep







the only thing I'm scared about is sanding the circles away D: but when I saw your pictures I was blown away! I actually like the csq design and making it transparent just makes it look better


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> This may have been asked before, but do the micro-bubbles in the tube res affect the fluid running through the loop? (i.e. Do the little bubbles cause bubbles throughout the loop?)


I wouldnt think so? After shaking the case round for a bit and bleeding the loop I have zero micro bubbles in the res


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I don't know the technical term for the silver tube that was in my res, but I drained my loop, flushed it all, replaced the tube with the included bitspower cyclone bit, and my micro-bubbles seem to be no more! Although I'm only an hour in, but before with the silver tube my loop was saturated with bubbles in an hour.
> 
> Since I'm new to WC, I will assume I was not using the silver tube properly, either that or it's worthless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE:
> 
> 
> AFTER:
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That makes sense, I have both the input and output on the bottom currently until I get some angled fittings. The tube was shooting the input like a jetstream straight towards the air pocket at the top of the res and mixing that air into the loop. (This is the explanation I have come up with anyway)


Nice setup, Is it good t o see the issue with the micro bubbles are gone







where did you get this power pump hum?









yes finished my build yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh







more pics coming soon..
*[Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues.*


----------



## ACMH-K

How tight should I crank my fittings down, hand tight, or crank em with a wrench with a towel or micro-fiber cloth to prevent scratching?
I notice on a couple of them that the green o-rings are still showing ever so slightly.


----------



## Halo_003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> How tight should I crank my fittings down, hand tight, or crank em with a wrench with a towel or micro-fiber cloth to prevent scratching?
> I notice on a couple of them that the green o-rings are still showing ever so slightly.


It's normal for o-rings to show, only hand tighten, don't use any tools on them or you can burst o-rings and then have leaks.


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Halo_003*
> 
> It's normal for o-rings to show, only hand tighten, don't use any tools on them or you can burst o-rings and then have leaks.


I have hands like vice grips so should I not completely tighten them seeing as I might burst an o-ring like you said, let me attach a picture:



And I bought the Swiftech MCP655 Special Edition with tapped G1/4 threads, on the inlet of the pump, none of my fittings hand tighten all the way in, (I have a T fitting that is supposed to go in there but won't) it looks like I might have to break out a wrench for it.
The outlet on the pump hand tightens just fine, I have a compression fitting in that one, and it threads all the way in.
I figured I'd ask before I break out a wrench because I don't want to strip the threads on the inlet or the fitting itself.


----------



## jiJa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> May you please make us a guide I'm really intrigued on how to do this and your images look amazing. Teach me your ways!!!


thanks for the kind words bro








as been said and posted theres a guide ( 1-2 pages back posted).
is just used the 3 steps of menzerna polish.
first step deep polishing, second polisch with smaller polishing pieces, after that an high gloss polish, and for the last step some plexi polish.
glad i have tht stuff back from my car









try it its kinda easy good luck.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i made an acrylic pen n pencil set (dice sitting on their corner) back in school. wetsanded with 2000 grit then hit em with a bernzamatic. move the torch too slow and they turn smoke tinted. to the 'trained pro', its called burnt.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> I have hands like vice grips so should I not completely tighten them seeing as I might burst an o-ring like you said, let me attach a picture:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I bought the Swiftech MCP655 Special Edition with tapped G1/4 threads, on the inlet of the pump, none of my fittings hand tighten all the way in, (I have a T fitting that is supposed to go in there but won't) it looks like I might have to break out a wrench for it.
> The outlet on the pump hand tightens just fine, I have a compression fitting in that one, and it threads all the way in.
> I figured I'd ask before I break out a wrench because I don't want to strip the threads on the inlet or the fitting itself.


Looks fine. You really don't have to put a lot of pressure on the fittings. Just make sure they are hand tight but don't try to break a finger tightening. The o-rings will do their job without massive pressure on them...


----------



## skyn3t

[Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues.

Quote:


> Ok all images from my [Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues. will be spoiled it will be easy for who has a slow connection Hope you guys like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .






Spoiler: Black Hawk Down: Click here to show images Part I !

















































































Spoiler: Black Hawk Down: Click here to show images Part II !











My 140mm Cougar fan frame less








Custom SSD bracket





































Custom paint on IO mobo plate and PCI brackets














Sleeve and cable management behind mobo tray.








Top case.


----------



## Sunreeper

Is there a guide for your frameless cougar fan mod?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Is there a guide for your frameless cougar fan mod?


no yest but i make one







thing you need

Guide to frame less fan Fan any size








Side Cutting Pliers
Scotch 1 in. x 60 ft. Extreme Mounting Tape
sand paper 120 grid

cut very carefully the arm's that hold the motor fan from the frame with the cutting pliers the only arm you going to leave is that one that carry the wire to the motor. sand the edges down nice and smooth cut a peace of scotch extreme tape, slap it behind the motor and push it firmly to get a nice touch down pill the tape off and slap it where you want to be and done







the scotch extreme tape will hold it for good, no worries in fall off I guarantee.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> I have hands like vice grips so should I not completely tighten them seeing as I might burst an o-ring like you said, let me attach a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I bought the Swiftech MCP655 Special Edition with tapped G1/4 threads, on the inlet of the pump, none of my fittings hand tighten all the way in, (I have a T fitting that is supposed to go in there but won't) it looks like I might have to break out a wrench for it.
> The outlet on the pump hand tightens just fine, I have a compression fitting in that one, and it threads all the way in.
> I figured I'd ask before I break out a wrench because I don't want to strip the threads on the inlet or the fitting itself.


you need to get a Bitspower G1/4 Anti-Twist Rotary Extender / Adapter - Matte Black (BP-MBDR-C) If were you I will get 3 of those and slap it on the e or 4 way BP you have there It does help a lot, after you put this Anti twister in place you can rotate it at 360 degree.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mangoloid*
> 
> Here is my first WC built. Simple but performing well
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU (4770K 4.6ghz) temps ~30C idle
> GPU (780 overclocked) ~31C idle
> Everything controlled with Koolance TMS-200 control system


Somebody might correct me here but maybe change up some fan orientation? Have the top radiator pushing air out of the case. And have the fan on the window bringing air into the case. Maybe have the "exhaust" on the back be an intake as well.


----------



## Xyrrath

Had contact with my webshop about my GPU waterblock (EK FC-Titan XXL) and they are saying it should aarive today at their depot so hopefully i get it with the mail tommorow


----------



## AzureTech

Should i get a cooler master seidon 120m or the antec kuhler 620


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Halo_003*
> 
> It's normal for o-rings to show, only hand tighten, don't use any tools on them or you can burst o-rings and then have leaks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have hands like vice grips so should I not completely tighten them seeing as I might burst an o-ring like you said, let me attach a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I bought the Swiftech MCP655 Special Edition with tapped G1/4 threads, on the inlet of the pump, none of my fittings hand tighten all the way in, (I have a T fitting that is supposed to go in there but won't) it looks like I might have to break out a wrench for it.
> The outlet on the pump hand tightens just fine, I have a compression fitting in that one, and it threads all the way in.
> I figured I'd ask before I break out a wrench because I don't want to strip the threads on the inlet or the fitting itself.
Click to expand...

That is not sealed,you will need to tighten that more.
As for 'bursting' o-rings,dont worry about that,there is a cut out in the fitting to stop that happening,not that o-rigs actually burst......
Tighten till it will tighten no more!


----------



## sate200

pictures my rig!!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Nice work


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> pictures my rig!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice







just clean the rad


----------



## jiJa

sweet one!
just a few tubes need more tightness and the rad some cleaning and it looks absolutly stunning.


----------



## derickwm

Wow, nice! Love black and white.


----------



## akiles333

i can use this;http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-backplate-black.html, with this;http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc-titan-acetal.html, right? Ek says that it's not a standalone or whatever and that it fits with all titan blocks,but i'd like to get a confirmation from one of you guys.


----------



## derickwm

You'll be good.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> pictures my rig!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What thickness radiator is that? Are you running push/pull on the top?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> i can use this;http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-backplate-black.html, with this;http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc-titan-acetal.html, right? Ek says that it's not a standalone or whatever and that it fits with all titan blocks,but i'd like to get a confirmation from one of you guys.


I have the exact same products that you linked on a gtx780 and they fit well and look good







go for it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> i can use this;http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-backplate-black.html, with this;http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc-titan-acetal.html, right? Ek says that it's not a standalone or whatever and that it fits with all titan blocks,but i'd like to get a confirmation from one of you guys.


Please visit the op of the 780 club. I have made a list of compatible blocks. Pretty much all Titan blocks and backplates will work:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1393791/official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club


----------



## Daredevil 720

Hey guys, could I get some opinions on my "issue"?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1402877/first-time-wcing-help-a-newcomer-out/30#post_20377444

Thanks!


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> What thickness radiator is that? Are you running push/pull on the top?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


The radiator is 60mm thickness, laid only in lung, temperatures are excellent because the spacings are large radiator. Alphacool today has one of the best radiators today.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> The radiator is 60mm thickness, laid only in lung, temperatures are excellent because the spacings are large radiator. Alphacool today has one of the best radiators today.


What about fans? Push/pull or just push or just pull?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Gleniu

A simple water cooling mod - front panel for Corsair 540 Air to install 240 rad.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> The silver tube is for use if you are running the inlet from the top. Helps reduce/stop the splashing sound
> 
> example in my build
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09835_zps40a5edd6.jpg.html


It looks realy realy good even tho i have to say in my eyes the water looks a little bit like beer ^^


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> It looks realy realy good even tho i have to say in my eyes the water looks a little bit like beer ^^


Nothing can go wrong with beer


----------



## Modest Mouse

You're not trying hard enough then


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> It looks realy realy good even tho i have to say in my eyes the water looks a little bit like beer ^^


Yeah, I have added considerably more dye since and looks much more orange


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Halo_003*
> 
> It's normal for o-rings to show, only hand tighten, don't use any tools on them or you can burst o-rings and then have leaks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have hands like vice grips so should I not completely tighten them seeing as I might burst an o-ring like you said, let me attach a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I bought the Swiftech MCP655 Special Edition with tapped G1/4 threads, on the inlet of the pump, none of my fittings hand tighten all the way in, (I have a T fitting that is supposed to go in there but won't) it looks like I might have to break out a wrench for it.
> The outlet on the pump hand tightens just fine, I have a compression fitting in that one, and it threads all the way in.
> I figured I'd ask before I break out a wrench because I don't want to strip the threads on the inlet or the fitting itself.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is not sealed,you will need to tighten that more.
> As for 'bursting' o-rings,dont worry about that,there is a cut out in the fitting to stop that happening,not that o-rigs actually burst......
> Tighten till it will tighten no more!
Click to expand...

No don't! Don't go ripping on a metal fitting in a plastic housing, A: you may strip it or B: You could split the housing.

Double check the threads aren't borked or cross threaded. Go to a local machine shop and see if they have a G1/4 tap and ask if they could run it through real quick. take a fitting and test it when you do.

Or try a refund/return if possible.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Finishing my loop tomorrow, will be posting some pics.

The EK PSC compression fittings I used on my build were pretty weird. Not every fitting's compression ring would fit with every other fitting. Looks like the rings are made specifically for one matching fitting.


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Yeah, I have added considerably more dye since and looks much more orange


But...beer color is a great color


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> But...beer color is a great color


----------



## skyn3t

Beer ? Where? Can I get one? Did I get late for beer? Lol

You guys still don't get the that. His rig is a brewing beer. First it get hot about 28c to 32c after some time it need to be cooled natural than you bottled it and put in the fridge. ;-) beer made by water loop I mean beer loop.


----------



## stickg1

Did some work on the loop to tidy up the hoses and added the VRM/MOFSET block to the loop. Plus added some fans (4x Corsair SP120 Performance on the front Black Ice GT)

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/IMG_20130710_193030_374_zpse0dfe8f8.jpg.html


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> No don't! Don't go ripping on a metal fitting in a plastic housing, A: you may strip it or B: You could split the housing.
> 
> Double check the threads aren't borked or cross threaded. Go to a local machine shop and see if they have a G1/4 tap and ask if they could run it through real quick. take a fitting and test it when you do.
> 
> Or try a refund/return if possible.


Sorry I posted that the other fittings didn't fit before I actually tried some I guess. Could of swore I tried them before I posted that.
Anyways, my coupler, compressions, & 90° rotary all fit and work, it seems to be a problem with just the rotary t fitting
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_629&products_id=27859&zenid=8c80eff4290ecc530e389e5b2b4d8a73
I forgot who mentioned putting a rotary adapter first then putting the t fitting on but no need for it ^ (Computer is out of commission and my patience to recall back is lacking since I'm on mobile)

I am encountering a different problem now, my compression fittings are not closeing all the way when I have my tubing installed.
I got these fittings
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=26555&zenid=8c80eff4290ecc530e389e5b2b4d8a73

And this tubing
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292_1154&products_id=36349&zenid=8c80eff4290ecc530e389e5b2b4d8a73

I can't understand why it seems like my tubings OD is to big.
The tubing goes on fine, (ID seems spot on) but when I screw the compression ring down, it doesn't go all the way. I'll see what I can do about getting a picture edited in.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> Sorry I posted that the other fittings didn't fit before I actually tried some I guess. Could of swore I tried them before I posted that.
> Anyways, my coupler, compressions, & 90° rotary all fit and work, it seems to be a problem with just the rotary t fitting
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_629&products_id=27859&zenid=8c80eff4290ecc530e389e5b2b4d8a73
> I forgot who mentioned putting a rotary adapter first then putting the t fitting on but no need for it ^ (Computer is out of commission and my patience to recall back is lacking since I'm on mobile)
> 
> I am encountering a different problem now, my compression fittings are not closeing all the way when I have my tubing installed.
> I got these fittings
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=26555&zenid=8c80eff4290ecc530e389e5b2b4d8a73
> 
> And this tubing
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292_1154&products_id=36349&zenid=8c80eff4290ecc530e389e5b2b4d8a73
> 
> I can't understand why it seems like my tubings OD is to big.
> The tubing goes on fine, (ID seems spot on) but when I screw the compression ring down, it doesn't go all the way. I'll see what I can do about getting a picture edited in.


I know what you did. you do have a 1/2 x 5/8 fittings and your tubing is 7/16 x 5/8 i had done it before. you can slide the tubing in but you can't get the compression seal down. the only tubing 7/16 x 5/8 that works on 1/2 x 5/8 fittings is tygon and durelene they are flexible. I had couple BP 1/2x5/8 new and used i had to sold it here couple weeks ago. why did you got the tygon fitting if you got the Primochill tubing? This is the right one (BP-MBCPF-CC5)


----------



## animal0307

According to his links they are both 1/2" x 3/4" tubing and fittings. I haven't used compression fittings so my guess is that its sealed but because it's so thick the fitting wont screw all the way down.

But... Thats just a guess until he gets some photos uploaded.


----------



## pc-illiterate

yeah i typed all that out and hit refresh animal. i read people were having problems with primochill advanced lrt and compression fittings. i have no clue though because i love barbs


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> According to his links they are both 1/2" x 3/4" tubing and fittings. I haven't used compression fittings so my guess is that its sealed but because it's so thick the fitting wont screw all the way down.
> 
> But... Thats just a guess until he gets some photos uploaded.


I'm 99% sure what I said in my last post Primochill tubing is not friendly like Durelene and tygon I should take some pics before I sold my brand new 1/2 x 5/8 let me check my box i may have on left not sure. stickg1 got my two last brand new fittings and my pump.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I'm 99% sure what I said in my last post Primochill tubing is not friendly like Durelene and tygon I should take some pics before I sold my brand new 1/2 x 5/8 let me check my box i may have on left not sure. stickg1 got my two last brand new fittings and my pump.


I can confirm this. Advance is really a pita to install. Durelene and the old LRT was far easier. I still have most of my loop composed of LRT and I have some pieces of Durelene for the drain line. Both don't compare to Advance in terms of installation.


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Are not tops but I paid just over $ 60 for all, to cool a mini itx is a good size!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> According to his links they are both 1/2" x 3/4" tubing and fittings. I haven't used compression fittings so my guess is that its sealed but because it's so thick the fitting wont screw all the way down.
> 
> But... Thats just a guess until he gets some photos uploaded.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm 99% sure what I said in my last post Primochill tubing is not friendly like Durelene and tygon I should take some pics before I sold my brand new 1/2 x 5/8 let me check my box i may have on left not sure. stickg1 got my two last brand new fittings and my pump.
Click to expand...

My bad. It was rough read but it does appear that is what you said.


----------



## Sunreeper

Where did you get all those rads for 60$!?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can confirm this. Advance is really a pita to install. Durelene and the old LRT was far easier. I still have most of my loop composed of LRT and I have some pieces of Durelene for the drain line. Both don't compare to Advance in terms of installation.


yes , hulk just got my back







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> Are not tops but I paid just over $ 60 for all, to cool a mini itx is a good size!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hey after you made out from the front door how fast and far did you ran ? j/k bro nice deal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> My bad. It was rough read but it does appear that is what you said.


you cool bro.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Where did you get all those rads for 60$!?


have you see a magic reveling they secret







J/K

yup i like to know







I may need one.


----------



## _REAPER_




----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















gonna watch retaliation

l8ter


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


showoff


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Where did you get all those rads for 60$!?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> you cool bro.


Thanks everyone, I bought my country of a shopkeeper friend were stopped in stock it they decided to take the cost and already have used these same type of radiators.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*


Wow, I envy you! Looks like you are about to be having lots of fun!


----------



## ACMH-K

Sorry it took sooo long,







I decided to cut the tubing to my loop, and fit everything in the case, after everything was attached and I had a full loop I took it out of the case all put together so I can rinse the loop and then leak test it tomorrow.
Here are the pictures of the compressions not completely threaded all the way (they are tight but like I said not threaded all the way down)
Please excuse the dust, (stupid high megapixel cameras, they always ruin a great shot.







)


----------



## ACMH-K

That sounds pretty spot on there animal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> According to his links they are both 1/2" x 3/4" tubing and fittings. I haven't used compression fittings so my guess is that its sealed but because it's so thick the fitting wont screw all the way down.
> 
> But... Thats just a guess until he gets some photos uploaded.


Correct me if I'm wrong here skyn3t, but your compressions don't look like they are threaded all the way down either?
And if they aren't threaded all the way, you did a pristine job of making sure all the gaps were the same







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> [Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Black Hawk Down: Click here to show images Part I !


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> That sounds pretty spot on there animal.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> According to his links they are both 1/2" x 3/4" tubing and fittings. I haven't used compression fittings so my guess is that its sealed but because it's so thick the fitting wont screw all the way down.
> 
> But... Thats just a guess until he gets some photos uploaded.
> 
> 
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong here skyn3t, but your compressions don't look like they are threaded all the way down either?
> And if they aren't threaded all the way, you did a pristine job of making sure all the gaps were the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> [Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Black Hawk Down: Click here to show images Part I !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Those look more than fine to me. I don't think you will ever be able to get the compression ring to screw "all the way down" when there is a hose in there. If you aren't, grab it and try pulling it out. or just run your pump through a couple loops of hose and fittings to give it a leak test but to me that looks just fine.


----------



## ACMH-K

So warm tap water to flush the system, and then distilled water to leak test or is tap water ok to use for testing as well?
I plan on a whopping 24-hour test.


----------



## Sunreeper

Might as well use the distilled water as a flush so yeah I'd do the 24 hour leak test with the distilled then drain and use some other liquid


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> So warm tap water to flush the system, and then distilled water to leak test or is tap water ok to use for testing as well?
> I plan on a whopping 24-hour test.


I would use distilled for the test if I were you unless you are planning to use coolant with biocide foe the long run.

Not worth risking it in the long run since distilled water isn't that expensive


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Might as well use the distilled water as a flush so yeah I'd do the 24 hour leak test with the distilled then drain and use some other liquid


Why?
All the parts should be flushed pre-installation,fill with your chosen fluid and leak test.
Flushing a loop once its installed means you have contaminants spread thru the loop,you won't get it all out.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Might as well use the distilled water as a flush so yeah I'd do the 24 hour leak test with the distilled then drain and use some other liquid
> 
> 
> 
> Why?
> All the parts should be flushed pre-installation,fill with your chosen fluid and leak test.
> Flushing a loop once its installed means you have contaminants spread thru the loop,you won't get it all out.
Click to expand...

I was saying that because he was flushing with warm tap water, which has impurities in it.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I was saying that because he was flushing with warm tap water, which has impurities in it.


In _theory_ you have a valid point - tap water does indeed have impurities... however, in practice, as many tests have shown... once you put your pure distilled water in your loop and run it for even a few days... you no longer have pure water in your loop anyway. I've always flushed with hot tap water first (it's very hot from my heater) for 10-15 mins... then fill with distilled and 'slosh and drain' a couple of times to flush out most of the residue... then install and go. Never seen problems, don't expect to.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I was saying that because he was flushing with warm tap water, which has impurities in it.
> 
> 
> 
> In _theory_ you have a valid point - tap water does indeed have impurities... however, in practice, as many tests have shown... once you put your pure distilled water in your loop and run it for even a few days... you no longer have pure water in your loop anyway. I've always flushed with hot tap water first (it's very hot from my heater) for 10-15 mins... then fill with distilled and 'slosh and drain' a couple of times to flush out most of the residue... then install and go. Never seen problems, don't expect to.
Click to expand...

This.

Its not open heart surgery,while I commend peoples fastidiousness,its really not neccessary.
Using acid to clean rads is a similar wc myth.....


----------



## _REAPER_

I am happy to report that you can fit a monsta 480 rad on the top of a 900D. The cable management is a bit of a pain in the well you know but it can be done. I am just mocking the build up currently not even close to being done with this yet though.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am happy to report that you can fit a monsta 480 rad on the top of a 900D. The cable management is a bit of a pain in the well you know but it can be done. I am just mocking the build up currently not even close to being done with this yet though.


WOW! That makes my fingers hurt just thinking about it.. (the cable management that is). However, it does look great!

Finally finished (for now) my rebuild... still need to do a little training on the GPU cables so I can cut the zip tie off - but they're still not fully relaxed so it will have to stay for a couple more days I think. Now on to the install and testing...













More HERE if anyone wants details...


----------



## wermad

Monsta 480 in 900D: been there, done that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Finally finished (for now) my rebuild... still need to do a little training on the GPU cables so I can cut the zip tie off - but they're still not fully relaxed so it will have to stay for a couple more days I think. Now on to the install and testing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More HERE if anyone wants details...


CL


----------



## derickwm

Working on a project, I need the type of radiators that are included in the kit 

Preferably this radiator:










But I can't seem to find it mentioned anywhere but on skinneelabs... which no longer is a functioning website besides what Google has cached.

Well I guess it's part of the Thermaltake Kandalf LCS case. So somebody find me one


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I think Magicool do a rad similar to that.


----------



## derickwm

Link?

All I've been able to find is Watercool and Aquacomputer has some, but I'm trying to get some radiators that have more than 5 bar worth of pressure.

I was actually able to track down one of those old Thermaltake 360 radiators though, just waiting for a PM back.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Link?
> 
> All I've been able to find is Watercool and Aquacomputer has some, but I'm trying to get some radiators that have more than 5 bar worth of pressure.
> 
> I was actually able to track down one of those old Thermaltake 360 radiators though, just waiting for a PM back.


Try automotive oil coolers Derick?


----------



## derickwm

Probably the next step, so much work though


----------



## Sunreeper

Derick is this project for your personal rig?


----------



## derickwm

Of course


----------



## skyn3t

[quote nam="A

MH-K" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/46090#post_20380883"]That sounds pretty spot on there animal.
Correct me if I'm wrong here skyn3t, but your compressions don't look like they are threaded all the way down either?
And if they aren't threaded all the way, you did a pristine job of making sure all the gaps were the same







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> [Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Black Hawk Down: Click here to show images Part I !


This is the max tolerance all the way down the more soft the more it get close Im on mobile now so I can't upload a proper pictures
Red Primochill adv lrt Clear is Durelene, the difference is about 1 to 2 mm I would saying 1mm. But if you have a 1/2 x 5/8 with tubing 7/16 x 5/8 you won't even catch the tread. This why I sold my both 1/2 x 5/8
http://i.imgur.com/fKwMHC1.jpg
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Those look more than fine to me. I don't think you will ever be able to get the compression ring to screw "all the way down" when there is a hose in there. If you aren't, grab it and try pulling it out. or just run your pump through a couple loops of hose and fittings to give it a leak test but to me that looks just fine.


I totally agree with you.


----------



## ACMH-K

I'm off today so I am going to unscrew my rotary 90° so I have an opened loop once again, it was to much of a pita to get the tubing installed so I will not be taking apart any tubing. It is all where it needs to be







.
Swooshing/flushing with distilled just to be safe. Should I use the cleaner that primochill provides with their tubing?


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> I'm off today so I am going to unscrew my rotary 90° so I have an opened loop once again, it was to much of a pita to get the tubing installed so I will not be taking apart any tubing. It is all where it needs to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Swooshing/flushing with distilled just to be safe. Should I use the cleaner that primochill provides with their tubing?


I use the Sys Prep that they include with the retail packaged 10 ft kits. It's in the kit, I paid for it (even though it says included free) and I figure it can't hurt so no point in wasting it. Some may be of the opinion that it's a waste of time and money or that it causes more bubbles, but I've never had an issue and it does help rinse any gunk out of new components.


----------



## MetallicAcid

I need some advice guys! I have a Swiftech MCP350 10w pump which has a molex connection. I want to be able to connect this pump to a fan controller or a motherboard header. Can someone advise me the best course of action? The main thing is that I want the molex gone, and being able to control the speed would be a nice bonus if possible.

MetallicAcid


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I use the Sys Prep that they include with the retail packaged 10 ft kits. It's in the kit, I paid for it (even though it says included free) and I figure it can't hurt so no point in wasting it. Some may be of the opinion that it's a waste of time and money or that it causes more bubbles, but I've never had an issue and it does help rinse any gunk out of new components.


I only washed it with warm water with tea spon of vinager flushed all my loop before the final Distilled + biocide. Since they never mentioned what it really does and what it is made out of. So I don't want it in it.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I need some advice guys! I have a Swiftech MCP350 10w pump which has a molex connection. I want to be able to connect this pump to a fan controller or a motherboard header. Can someone advise me the best course of action? The main thing is that I want the molex gone, and being able to control the speed would be a nice bonus if possible.
> 
> MetallicAcid


Check this tread here I made it a days back with Martinm210 and lowfat.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1407881/mcp355-pwm-control-evidence-proof-needed


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I need some advice guys! I have a Swiftech MCP350 10w pump which has a molex connection. I want to be able to connect this pump to a fan controller or a motherboard header. Can someone advise me the best course of action? The main thing is that I want the molex gone, and being able to control the speed would be a nice bonus if possible.
> 
> MetallicAcid


Don't suppose you have crimping tools? Cutting off the molex and crimping on a fan connector would be the easiest and cleanest solution.


----------



## SuperClocks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bindusar*
> 
> Here's mine, a little homemade deal that does the job...could be better
> 
> but could be worse.
> 
> D-Tek Fusion
> 
> Swiftech MCP655-B
> 
> Koolance Inline Reservoir
> 
> 2-120mm Thermaltake Thunderblades
> 
> Custom 1/2" Coiled Copper Tube Heat Exchange


I can honestly say that this is the first time that I have seen a framed rig hanging on a wall.. Nice


----------



## SuperClocks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*


Very clean.. I like it..







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*


Very nice, as well.. How much was that case?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Don't suppose you have crimping tools? Cutting off the molex and crimping on a fan connector would be the easiest and cleanest solution.


The mcp350/355 won't work in the fan header. It may work if you have koolace pcb like you have lowfat. The mcp35x already come with pwm control wire and rpm.

I think the koolace did not cuted in the trail just not to fabricate tge pcb without t pwn controller I think that's why you got so lucky in mod the wire and got it to work so well. ;-)

Jus ft my little 1/2cents


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> The mcp350/355 won't work in the fan header. It may work if you have koolace pcb like you have lowfat. The mcp35x already come with pwm control wire and rpm.
> 
> I think the koolace did not cuted in the trail just not to fabricate tge pcb without t pwn controller I think that's why you got so lucky in mod the wire and got it to work so well. ;-)
> 
> Jus ft my little 1/2cents


He is not talking about pwm control. He wants to just use it on a fan controller. He definitely can cut the molex pins off and crimp on fan crimps and use it in a 3-pin fan connector.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> He is not talking about pwm control. He wants to just use it on a fan controller. He definitely can cut the molex pins off and crimp on fan crimps and use it in a 3-pin fan connector.


I'm sorry I just miss read that. Yes he can do it. make sure the fan control has enough juice to carry that pump, a true 20w channel to connect it. But it still no recommend. I never did it but it may work well.


----------



## sebar

I did try this mod on my Pump conected to an NZXT Sentry Mesh. I was able tocontrol the pump speed somewhat, the pump would just shut off if I turned it down to much. At the end of the day I did not see much benefit running the pump like this and did not want to risk damaging the pump, the fan controller or anything else in my system.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I did try this mod on my Pump conected to an NZXT Sentry Mesh. I was able tocontrol the pump speed somewhat, the pump would just shut off if I turned it down to much. At the end of the day I did not see much benefit running the pump like this and did not want to risk damaging the pump, the fan controller or anything else in my system.


I do agree with you. The only reason I tried to mod my pump is because the mcp355 is noise like a very fine wining noise that kils me but when I wear my head phone it just gone. But at night it does drive me crazzy. I'm going to replace my mcp355 to a 350.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Skynet,enough with the double posts already.

Pumps are fine to be connected to a fan controller with the correct wattage per channel,I have had many D5's on FC's before and they all have worked well.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Skynet,enough with the double posts already.
> 
> Pumps are fine to be connected to a fan controller with the correct wattage per channel,I have had many D5's on FC's before and they all have worked well.


Really dude? Are you step with left foot today? I may using my mobile now but I don't see any double post here. I did step out with my left foot today so Don't say "enough" to me.

It is skyn3t . 3 not E


----------



## PinzaC55

I finally got some Phobya fittings and tidied up the tubes to the GPU , though I am still not happy with them. I had to use Phobya as suitable Bitspower seem to be as hard to find as hens teeth in the UK. Next priority is to tidy up the cables which are a nightmare.


----------



## Michalius

Couple more pics from my friend's build. Click on the thumbnails for extra sparkly.


----------



## Fanboy88

Is the yellow a powder coat or paint?


----------



## skyn3t

That's a yellow Ferrari. He should slap a Ferrari log on it . It does look good.


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> That's a yellow Ferrari. He should slap a Ferrari log on it . It does look good.


I agree. Makes me think it's fast like a Ferrari


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I finally got some Phobya fittings and tidied up the tubes to the GPU , though I am still not happy with them. I had to use Phobya as suitable Bitspower seem to be as hard to find as hens teeth in the UK. Next priority is to tidy up the cables which are a nightmare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice plumb job. Having no 45°s IMO makes it look nice and clean.

But you really do need some serious cable management.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I finally got some Phobya fittings and tidied up the tubes to the GPU , though I am still not happy with them. I had to use Phobya as suitable Bitspower seem to be as hard to find as hens teeth in the UK. Next priority is to tidy up the cables which are a nightmare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You did a great job. I gotta say though, the cluster of cables at the bottom is killing it though...throws off the whole build. I know you said you're gonna tidy it up, so good luck.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Couple more pics from my friend's build. Click on the thumbnails for extra sparkly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So, much, yellow.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nice plumb job. Having no 45°s IMO makes it look nice and clean.
> 
> But you really do need some serious cable management.


Thanks! I know I really need to bite the bullet and get into custom cables - I think I could probably half what is there with a little thought.


----------



## ACMH-K

I flushed all my parts separately, with some of them having tubing attached to them, (cpu block with fittings and tubes attached, rad with nothing attached, pump taken apart & res with one tube and fitting attached). I used distilled water to flush, however I did not use the primochill cleaner provided....

I have a lot of micro bubbles running through the loop as well as bigger bubbles stuck in the res, I'm guessing that once I install the loop in my rig and the res is completely vertical that these will dissipate as long as I continue to bleed. Could it be because I didn't clean with the cleaner?

Here are some pics of my leak testing:






At slower speeds, I can actually hear the micro bubbles running through the pump, at the 5th speed all I hear is the pump motor


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> Is the yellow a powder coat or paint?


It's a two tone Powdercoat. Yellow base with a gold sparkly clear coat finish.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So, much, yellow.


Indeed. The goal though is that the yellow serves as a canvas for the LED system. The build is called 'Radiance', and he wanted to get a shimmering interior in all the shades of gold. So, with some Raspberry Pi action on a LED strip, we get this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlDoUdJRT3I

The LED program is being changed slightly to go a bit faster, and there will of course be more strips. This was just a test run to get an idea of the effect.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Skynet,enough with the double posts already.
> 
> Pumps are fine to be connected to a fan controller with the correct wattage per channel,I have had many D5's on FC's before and they all have worked well.
> 
> 
> 
> Really dude? Are you step with left foot today? I may using my mobile now but I don't see any double post here. I did step out with my left foot today so Don't say "enough" to me.
> 
> It is skyn3t . 3 not E
Click to expand...

Go back thru the last 5 pages and you will see.

So,yeah,enough.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> I agree. Makes me think it's fast like a Ferrari


My favorite color is red but hey look the yellow








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You did a great job. I gotta say though, the cluster of cables at the bottom is killing it though...throws off the whole build. I know you said you're gonna tidy it up, so good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, much, yellow.


he just switched the scheme, instead black&yellow he is yellow&black like

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> I flushed all my parts separately, with some of them having tubing attached to them, (cpu block with fittings and tubes attached, rad with nothing attached, pump taken apart & res with one tube and fitting attached). I used distilled water to flush, however I did not use the primochill cleaner provided....
> I have a lot of micro bubbles running through the loop as well as bigger bubbles stuck in the res, I'm guessing that once I install the loop in my rig and the res is completely vertical that these will dissipate as long as I continue to bleed. Could it be because I didn't clean with the cleaner?
> 
> Here are some pics of my leak testing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At slower speeds, I can actually hear the micro bubbles running through the pump, at the 5th speed all I hear is the pump motor


make sure when you set the pump somewhere in your rig you add some rubber feet on it and anything to cut the vibration if you already have good work. I had the same pump with no speed control I could not hear a thing, even the water and flow was great and still perfect.

@ Jameswalt1
where are you when I want to







with ya ?







lol


----------



## ACMH-K

Has anyone ever run that primochill cleaner through their full loop?


----------



## MetallicAcid

Thanks for the info on the mcp350. The main goal I want is to just be able to recrimp into a fan header. Can anyone describe the pin out to me when I am ready to insert the pins in the connector?

MetallicAcid


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Thanks for the info on the mcp350. The main goal I want is to just be able to recrimp into a fan header. Can anyone describe the pin out to me when I am ready to insert the pins in the connector?
> 
> MetallicAcid




There you go


----------



## dr/owned

SetTitleMatchMode 1
SetTitleMatchMode Fast


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> make sure when you set the pump somewhere in your rig you add some rubber feet on it and anything to cut the vibration if you already have good work. I had the same pump with no speed control I could not hear a thing, even the water and flow was great and still perfect.


Honestly when I bought the pump I didn't realize it had a speed control, needless to say when I opened the box and inspected the pump it was a nice surprise.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACMH-K*
> 
> Honestly when I bought the pump I didn't realize it had a speed control, needless to say when I opened the box and inspected the pump it was a nice surprise.


awesome.







. just let's us know if ya need more input.


----------



## Dragoon

Hai guys. Here's my submission. My first dip. xD It's just an H100i but I do plan to go full custom in the future, as soon as funds allow me to do so









http://imgur.com/oOiD7bh.jpg

http://imgur.com/T92wIWW.jpg

http://imgur.com/6IQGgIH.jpg

Just an *H100i* using it's stock fans as pull, and a couple SP120 Performance as push. Temps are pretty good considering being an Ivy Bridge. I get around 4~7C delta on idle, and roughly 40~45C delta under Prime95 small FFT.

There's also a few things I'd like to ask the more seasoned builders.

First, how would you rate this setup? And do I need anything else (aside tubing)?
*CPU Block* EK-SUPREMACY
*GPU Block* EK-FC670 GTX - NICKEL x2
*GPU Conn* EK-FC BRIDGE DUAL PARALLEL 3-SLOT CSQ
*Pump* LAING DDC 12V 10W
*Rad 1* EK-COOLSTREAM RAD XTX (240)
*Rad 2* PHOBYA XTREME 200mm (1x 200MM)
*Res* EK-RES X3 250
*Fittings* EK COMPRESSION FITTING 11/16mm BLACK - G1/4 x10
*Optn 1* EK-DDC X-TOP CSQ - PLEXI
*Optn 2* EK-D5 Dual X-RES Link CSQ

That setup will set me back roughly 620€ ($810 USD), but usually prices here are 1:1 compared to US prices... so my take is that the same setup would probably cost me about $600ish USD

Yup, I'm quite a fan of EK's design, really like their blocks. And also the easiest and best bang for buck brand of water cooling products I can get in Portugal.

Second... How do you plan your builds? You make sketches, measurements or just... guess? lol


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You did a great job. I gotta say though, the cluster of cables at the bottom is killing it though...throws off the whole build. I know you said you're gonna tidy it up, so good luck.


I have invented a new acronym " *JBOC* " -Just a Bunch Of Cables


----------



## Rezidude

First water cooled system...


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Hai guys. Here's my submission. My first dip. xD It's just an H100i but I do plan to go full custom in the future, as soon as funds allow me to do so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/oOiD7bh.jpg
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/T92wIWW.jpg
> 
> http://imgur.com/6IQGgIH.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just an *H100i* using it's stock fans as pull, and a couple SP120 Performance as push. Temps are pretty good considering being an Ivy Bridge. I get around 4~7C delta on idle, and roughly 30~35C delta under Prime95 small FFT.
> 
> There's also a few things I'd like to ask the more seasoned builders.
> 
> First, how would you rate this setup? And do I need anything else (aside tubing)?
> *CPU Block* EK-SUPREMACY
> *GPU Block* EK-FC670 GTX - NICKEL x2
> *GPU Conn* EK-FC BRIDGE DUAL PARALLEL 3-SLOT CSQ
> *Pump* LAING DDC 12V 10W
> *Rad 1* EK-COOLSTREAM RAD XTX (240)
> *Rad 2* PHOBYA XTREME 200mm (1x 200MM)
> *Res* EK-RES X3 250
> *Fittings* EK COMPRESSION FITTING 11/16mm BLACK - G1/4 x10
> *Optn 1* EK-DDC X-TOP CSQ - PLEXI
> *Optn 2* EK-D5 Dual X-RES Link CSQ
> 
> That setup will set me back roughly 620€ ($810 USD), but usually prices here are 1:1 compared to US prices... so my take is that the same setup would probably cost me about $600ish USD
> 
> Yup, I'm quite a fan of EK's design, really like their blocks. And also the easiest and best bang for buck brand of water cooling products I can get in Portugal.
> 
> Second... How do you plan your builds? You make sketches, measurements or just... guess? lol


Looks like a good WC setup. What case is all this in? 250ml res's are big, I was surprised at how big my 150mL was.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Thanks B.

MetallicAcid


----------



## Gabrielzm

My first custom WC build. Quite happy although I think the addiction LC bug bite me. Already thinking about a bigger case where all rads would fit inside













Details and specs can be seen here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1407863/wc-in-fractal-design-xl-r2#post_20362362


----------



## Michalius

I couldn't help myself. Just put together the whole loop in my build, so I took a quick snapshot with my cell. Prettier pictures to follow.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I only washed it with warm water with tea spon of vinager flushed all my loop before the final Distilled + biocide. Since they never mentioned what it really does and what it is made out of. So I don't want it in it.


And I'm not a big fan of acids in my loop, but that's the beauty of Custom building and modification....to each his own. WE don't want what everyone has or uses that's why we are all here


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Looks like a good WC setup. What case is all this in? 250ml res's are big, I was surprised at how big my 150mL was.


Case is a Graphite 600T SE, the EK Res X3 250 actually takes around 440ml (according to EKWB), the 250 is the height of the res in mm, I also didn't know that until I checked on their website because I actually had "wishlisted" the X3 400, which is a monster... lol

I think I have enough space to place the res on top of the Dual XRES Link and the DDC X-Top between the mobo and the ODD cage. OR, even horizontally on the top part of the case (I can place a Res X3 horizontally, can't I?) if the radiator+fans fit, voiding the use of the XRES Link. I'm trying to plan this very well.


----------



## subsven

Dragoon, search for some of my posts or send me a PM, my first (and current) wc build was a 600T, learned a lot about do's and dont's and what does and doesn't work. I'd link pics but I'm currently using my phone to post.


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Dragoon, search for some of my posts or send me a PM, my first (and current) wc build was a 600T, learned a lot about do's and dont's and what does and doesn't work. I'd link pics but I'm currently using my phone to post.


Thanks for the info, I did read a few of your posts and your build log. You actually have a very similar setup. My 3570k @ 4.5 needs 1.29v to be stable, PLL is 1.7v... I just did a quick Small FFT and I got up to 76C (room temp is at about 28C) with the H100i fans at full power. I also never tinkered much more with voltages because I wasn't still really sure how high I could go, because I basically skipped two generations of CPUs lol, I have to do a little more research on Ivy OC and maybe I can get myself to lower voltages or higher OC









Aaaand... Holy crap...







You actually have 4 rads for a CPU/GPU setup?... I thought a single 480 would be enough lol.


----------



## subsven

lol, just 3, I did have 4 though. I took out the single 120 in the back because it reduced my airflow in the case too much. The single 60mm rx480 in the back is likely enough on its own, but my temps NEVER go above 35c on my GPUs and barely break into the 50s on the CPU. 670's are at 1215 Mhz and 3770k is at 4.8 Ghz.


----------



## Xyrrath

Question

Would i need hose clamps if i put 1/2 tube on 1/2 barbs. It sits pretty snug but want to be sure


----------



## derickwm

You'll probably be fine, but it's completely up to you and what makes you feel comfortable.


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> lol, just 3, I did have 4 though. I took out the single 120 in the back because it reduced my airflow in the case too much. The single 60mm rx480 in the back is likely enough on its own, but my temps NEVER go above 35c on my GPUs and barely break into the 50s on the CPU. 670's are at 1215 Mhz and 3770k is at 4.8 Ghz.


Those are really good temps! I see that you also fixed the problem you were having beyond what you got in your thread. You de-lidded it? I mostly want to go full loop because of the noise from the 670s... let's face it, they are whisper quiet when their temps are below 70C, but as soon as they hit 71C (custom fan curve) they sound like a couple A380s taking off.









I kind of like the idea of having an external rad, fixed to the case, also to reduce clutter and improve overall airflow.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Question
> 
> Would i need hose clamps if i put 1/2 tube on 1/2 barbs. It sits pretty snug but want to be sure


If they aren't compression barbs then I would suggest you put those plastic clamps or just a cable tie around each barb over the tubing just to be safe.


----------



## _REAPER_

Here is a progress update and it is hard to get the cables to fit with a RIVE and a Monsta rad but it works


----------



## derickwm

Nice build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> AquaComputer needs to release a new block...


Yeh,it looks a bit dated now.....


----------



## _REAPER_

Leak Testing now


----------



## subsven

I didn't de-lid it, turns out I just had some peach fuzz or something that managed to get into my CPU water block. I had my stuff laying around on a table for a few days while I was working on it, and I have 3 large dogs and young kids (6 months and 3 years old). Stuff happens,







.


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Leak Testing now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: le snip!


That build looks reaaaaly good, and that dye too!

Wow, what are the odds to actually have something like that in a loop? LOL

Glad you figured it out, looks like you have your hands full there


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Question
> 
> Would i need hose clamps if i put 1/2 tube on 1/2 barbs. It sits pretty snug but want to be sure


I would never trust 1/2 tubing without clamps. Thr tubing is too heavy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Question
> 
> Would i need hose clamps if i put 1/2 tube on 1/2 barbs. It sits pretty snug but want to be sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would never trust 1/2 tubing without clamps. Thr tubing is too heavy.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't trust any clampless setup that doesn't used oversized barbs.
Tube weight is immaterial from my observations on clampless rigs.


----------



## pc-illiterate

im hoping someone can shed some light here maybe with a similar set-up.
[email protected] and 1.336v , 2x 670s on swiftech uni blocks, 360 xt45 with push/pull loon 1350rpm exhaust out the top, 240 xt45 with push excaliburs at 9v in my rad box
air going in the case is about 25.5*C. my water temp reads 29*C under load 1 hour into p95 but my cpu temp reads 60*C max in real temp while gpus hit a max of 29*C.
do all of these temps sound right? its hard to believe my delta would be roughly 3.5*C and my 2500k still hits 60* while idling at 28-31*C


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modest Mouse*
> 
> @ Joejoe
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune, formerly Project Shift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formerly project shift, formerly neptune, now Project Awesome
Click to expand...

Mate, absolutely love it.

I want those colour cables, or perhaps a UV blue.

Is that the Mayhems coolant? Looks the same shade as the Maximum PC build in a Bitfenix Prodigy i have seen recently.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wouldn't trust any clampless setup that doesn't used oversized barbs.
> Tube weight is immaterial from my observations on clampless rigs.


I've done 3/8 on 3/8 clampless probably well over a dozen times. I've done 3/8" on 1/2" barbs once and the tubing actually came off easier than w/ the 3/8" fittings. The one time I did 1/2" tubing on 1/2" fittings clampless just didn't work. Tubes would easily fall off on some of the tighter bends.


----------



## TampaChaz

This work day needs to hurry up and get done already so I can get home. I have some serious geeking to do!








I pulled the trigger on the Phobya G-Changer 360mm V2 rad to replace the XSPC 240mm rad for the CPU loop. The size difference was working my OCD into overdrive. I may build an extension for the existing 1080 rad box and use the same mesh for the front to make everything match (I'm thinking about it a lot which means I will end up doing it).
I'm also going to polish the acrylic SLI bridge so that it's clear like the 240 res (another OCD moment).
Also the backplate rough cuts arrived so now it's time to drill the mounting holes, cut the GPU vent design, powder coat, detail and mount.
I will post a few pics here and update the build log pics (I've got a lot of pics to add already). Hope everyone has a great Friday!


----------



## derickwm

We be gettin' our orange on...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wouldn't trust any clampless setup that doesn't used oversized barbs.
> Tube weight is immaterial from my observations on clampless rigs.
> 
> 
> 
> I've done 3/8 on 3/8 clampless probably well over a dozen times. I've done 3/8" on 1/2" barbs once and the tubing actually came off easier than w/ the 3/8" fittings. The one time I did 1/2" tubing on 1/2" fittings clampless just didn't work. Tubes would easily fall off on some of the tighter bends.
Click to expand...

Do you not think it may be down to inconsistancies in tubing?

I used to run clampless many moons ago before copper,I have had similar experiences to yourself with matched barbs/ tube.

In other news....

I WON BITTECH MOTM!!!!!


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you not think it may be down to inconsistancies in tubing?
> 
> I used to run clampless many moons ago before copper,I have had similar experiences to yourself with matched barbs/ tube.
> 
> In other news....
> 
> I WON BITTECH MOTM!!!!!


Congratulations! You clearly deserved it. That is one sexy water cooling setup


----------



## _REAPER_

ALMOST FINISHED for now.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you not think it may be down to inconsistancies in tubing?
> 
> I used to run clampless many moons ago before copper,I have had similar experiences to yourself with matched barbs/ tube.
> 
> In other news....
> 
> I WON BITTECH MOTM!!!!!


Congrats mate!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In other news....
> 
> I WON BITTECH MOTM!!!!!


Fantastico!


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you not think it may be down to inconsistancies in tubing?
> 
> I used to run clampless many moons ago before copper,I have had similar experiences to yourself with matched barbs/ tube.
> 
> In other news....
> 
> I WON BITTECH MOTM!!!!!


Congratulations much deserved. Makes me wanna work extra hard on the NZXT so I can enter MOTM here


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wouldn't trust any clampless setup that doesn't used oversized barbs.
> Tube weight is immaterial from my observations on clampless rigs.
> 
> 
> 
> I've done 3/8 on 3/8 clampless probably well over a dozen times. I've done 3/8" on 1/2" barbs once and the tubing actually came off easier than w/ the 3/8" fittings. The one time I did 1/2" tubing on 1/2" fittings clampless just didn't work. Tubes would easily fall off on some of the tighter bends.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you not think it may be down to inconsistancies in tubing?
> 
> I used to run clampless many moons ago before copper,I have had similar experiences to yourself with matched barbs/ tube.
> 
> In other news....
> 
> I WON BITTECH MOTM!!!!!
Click to expand...

I have a thought, I think its because there is pyhically less material in smaller tubing to get fatigued and stretch over time. Also I'd be willing to bet wall thickness plays a big role in it. Personally I chose a thin wall tube for flexibility reasons and with my 655/D5 and a really restricted CPU block you can actually feel the pressure and see the tube expand when my tubing gets soft and mushy from the heat build up in my system. I won't run clampless from I've seen and for a just in case factor.

PS congrats on MOTM


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Congrats B-Neg! Great build!


----------



## Chromate

Got a smaller rig for you guys


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chromate*
> 
> Got a smaller rig for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So fresh and clean


----------



## ledzepp3

Damn, that's wicked clean! I never have really liked the Prodigy, but that's one _fine_ build. You should take some pics with the side panel off, and from the other side. I really like how the font panel is very clean, but you've still got the fan controller. Me likey.


----------



## Chromate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Damn, that's wicked clean! I never have really liked the Prodigy, but that's one _fine_ build. You should take some pics with the side panel off, and from the other side. I really like how the font panel is very clean, but you've still got the fan controller. Me likey.


Yeah I really love how the panel came out, still got some work though. The panel isn't quite flush yet, because the fan controller hits the radiator.


----------



## wermad

Congrats B-Negative









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chromate*
> 
> Got a smaller rig for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome rig. Just not a fan of the ehiem pumps. They're better under an aquarium tank imho


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chromate*
> 
> Got a smaller rig for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, I really like that! Nice job!


----------



## Daredevil 720

First watercooling build right here! Tell me what you think!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Got myself a nice and stable overclock of 4.5GHz on my 3770K. Max core temp is 77C after many hours of Prime95, with 30C ambient temperature. Plenty of voltage room left for 4.8GHz, will go there once I delid my chip!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, this AX240 radiator fits perfectly in my CM690 II Advanced. As you can see I mounted it at the top. I just had to trim the CPU power cable's plastic connector a bit. It doesn't interfere with the northbridge heatsink neither does the motherboard bend in any way. Next step: second AX240 at the bottom!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> First watercooling build right here! Tell me what you think!


I love 690 wc builds. Keplers need some water too









I had an RX240 on the bottom, an RS120 on the back and an RS240 on the top in my old 690 build. So, there's plenty of options to cool your 670s


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love 690 wc builds. Keplers need some water too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had an RX240 on the bottom, an RS120 on the back and an RS240 on the top in my old 690 build. So, there's plenty of options to cool your 670s


I really like how tight my build looks. The MVE is EATX which isn't officially supported by this case, but the only drawback is the cable management holes are half-covered.

I'm definitely planning on adding more rads. If everything works out as planned I'm going to end up with an AX120 at the back (external), the current AX240 at the top, one more AX240 at the bottom and another AX120 on the front (internal, will need to detach HDD cage for this, probably when I get an SSD to shove behind the mobo).

I bet that, until I get all these rads, the GTX880 will have already launched. I'm planning on replacing my 670s with one or two 880s which I will put under water. Until then I don't think it's worth it to watercool some placeholder GPUs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I really like how tight my build looks. The MVE is EATX which isn't officially supported by this case, but the only drawback is the cable management holes are half-covered.
> 
> I'm definitely planning on adding more rads. If everything works out as planned I'm going to end up with an AX120 at the back (external), the current AX240 at the top, one more AX240 at the bottom and another AX120 on the front (internal, will need to detach HDD cage for this, probably when I get an SSD to shove behind the mobo).
> 
> I bet that, until I get all these rads, the GTX880 will have already launched. I'm planning on replacing my 670s with one or two 880s which I will put under water. Until then I don't think it's worth it to watercool some placeholder GPUs.












Didn't know FrozenQ made a case. Reminds me of the DD cases:













They have a black, blue, red, and green one. Too late for me







. Priced ~900D/CosmosII territory....


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> First watercooling build right here! Tell me what you think!


love your setup looks nice and clean except for the bottom of your case, clean that dust off lol


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't know FrozenQ made a case. Reminds me of the DD cases:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have a black, blue, red, and green one. Too late for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Priced ~900D/CosmosII territory....


Too bad they don't have the front setup for another 360. The pricing is just a bit whack to me, don't get me wrong it would be a decent case but for 20ish more you could grab a caselabs case


----------



## ACMH-K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chromate*
> 
> Got a smaller rig for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I could







over that for 20 minutes straight.
Slick, subtle, like it very much!


----------



## szeged

anyone know what size thermal pads i need to replace the ones that come with the evga hydro copper titan block?


----------



## ACMH-K

My first Custom Watercooling loop!
Thank you all that helped and answer all my questions, reps will be given by the end of this weekend, I have a lot to still do, as well as work tomorrow.

Stay tuned for updates and explanations here:
[Build Log] EV3RGR3EN

Anyone interested in pictures for the time being?


Spoiler: I Thought So! :D



Case is sitting on the front bezel so I could drill holes out for the res mounts:



& fan installation easier:


Cable management later, I just wanted to get my rig back up and running so I could post my progress


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Didn't know FrozenQ made a case. Reminds me of the DD cases:
> 
> They have a black, blue, red, and green one. Too late for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Priced ~900D/CosmosII territory....


I think a company name laserworks or something like that made them first then merged with frozenq or something to that nature b/c I remember seeing them without frozenq attached to it. Anyway a friend of mine is likely picking up the double wide for a new build, IB-E/Haswell and sli whatevers. It'll be interesting to see how it turns out. I would like a couple of replacement panels for my DD case. Going to be ceramic coating it soon once I can stop spending money on other things.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Mate, absolutely love it.
> 
> I want those colour cables, or perhaps a UV blue.
> 
> Is that the Mayhems coolant? Looks the same shade as the Maximum PC build in a Bitfenix Prodigy i have seen recently.


Thanks!! It's Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry. I had UV Blue coolant in this build in another case (see Project Cobalt by my sig below) but I opted for Mayhems to match the ASUS motherboard, Corsair fans, and the Ensourced custom sleeved cables.


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Mate, absolutely love it.
> 
> I want those colour cables, or perhaps a UV blue.
> 
> Is that the Mayhems coolant? Looks the same shade as the Maximum PC build in a Bitfenix Prodigy i have seen recently.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!! It's Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry. I had UV Blue coolant in this build in another case (see Project Cobalt by my sig below) but I opted for Mayhems to match the ASUS motherboard, Corsair fans, and the Ensourced custom sleeved cables.
Click to expand...

Nice, i have a P8Z68-V going in my first ever watercooled rig, waiting on my TJ07 to arrive so i can plan out the loop in more detail.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Nice, i have a P8Z68-V going in my first ever watercooled rig, waiting on my TJ07 to arrive so i can plan out the loop in more detail.


----------



## lowfat

Black EK badge > silver


----------



## $ilent

Does anyone here use or heard of the EK L360 kit? http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-341-EK

It seems really good value for money and the few reviews online say it gets amazing temp results, like under 60C for a 3960X that is over volted?


----------



## Ishinomori

Why are they pitting a custom loop 360 rad against aio sealed 240 units?

I see the H220 isnt there, nor is the RX/RS360 kit from XSPC... :/


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Why are they pitting a custom loop 360 rad against aio sealed 240 units?
> 
> I see the H220 isnt there, nor is the RX/RS360 kit from XSPC... :/


good question


----------



## Ishinomori

Another question, why are the temps actual as opposed to "over ambient"?


----------



## $ilent

Im guessing the h220 isnt on the list due to swiftech having already sold all 10 units they made.

Its rithet the EK 369 kit or xspc raystorm rx360 for extra £35? This woukd be used to cool a 3770k and 2 gpus.


----------



## CptAsian

NZXT Kraken isn't there either. Just throwing that out there.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> I think a company name laserworks or something like that made them first then merged with frozenq or something to that nature b/c I remember seeing them without frozenq attached to it. Anyway a friend of mine is likely picking up the double wide for a new build, IB-E/Haswell and sli whatevers. It'll be interesting to see how it turns out. I would like a couple of replacement panels for my DD case. Going to be ceramic coating it soon once I can stop spending money on other things.


Yeah, Kirk Carpenter is behind those designs. He does amazing work. I recommend contacting him for any custom acrylic work you need. I recently had a small piece made and when it got here, there were a few things off. Kirk has already made changes and sent out 2 more pieces. Amazing customer service


----------



## TampaChaz

New 360Rad arrived so I was able to replace the 240 and satisfy part of my OCD...

Also Buffed out my EK SLI Bridge and blank using 400 grit sandpaper and then MacGuire's Scratch X and a polishing pad on my Dremel. It was fairly easy and came out nice, I think.
Before:


And After:


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> New 360Rad arrived so I was able to replace the 240 and satisfy part of my OCD...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also Buffed out my EK SLI Bridge and blank using 400 grit sandpaper and then MacGuire's Scratch X and a polishing pad on my Dremel. It was fairly easy and came out nice, I think.
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And After:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good job


----------



## mattcube64

After many months, a bigger dent in my wallet than I ever expected, and lots of highs and lots of lows - I finally got my very first water-cooled PC up and running today! Again, it's my first go at this, but what do you guys think?



Ambient GPU temp of 25c jumped up to only 33c after 15 minutes of 98% usage in FurMark. Pretty excited to see that!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> After many months, a bigger dent in my wallet than I ever expected, and lots of highs and lots of lows - I finally got my very first water-cooled PC up and running today! Again, it's my first go at this, but what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient GPU temp of 25c jumped up to only 33c after 15 minutes of 98% usage in FurMark. Pretty excited to see that!


Noice.

I like the little v7,was considering one myself but i have a dislike for the drive bay mounts.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> New 360Rad arrived so I was able to replace the 240 and satisfy part of my OCD...


I also have new rad!!!!
Now I have a 360 XT45 plus 240 UT60 (inside) plus MO-RA3 8x180 (outside) all in a massive single loop. Dual D5's are moving nearly 3 liters of DI water








Love my new drain port.



I am amazed with my new deltas. About 4ºC under full load and ultra silent operation @ 700rpm!!!


----------



## _REAPER_

Let me know what you guys think


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Very nice! I love those fans!


----------



## kingchris

^ looking good. nice colour usage.


----------



## tecuarenta

^ very tidy and clean


----------



## oelkanne

LD V8 Case??..getting mine soon...and then the fun part begin


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> LD V8 Case??..getting mine soon...and then the fun part begin


I think it is a 900D


----------



## _REAPER_

yes it is a 900D


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So,I was looking at the lighting now and decided (mainly as im crap at balancing lighting) to go for an Enermax Vegas for the exhaust,the colours are neutral so Omega can chose what light colour he likes on the fan easily,plus the swirly effect should give a nice water ripple look on all the shiny tubings.

It didnt get left stock either....


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> yes it is a 900D


Nice clean look build bud







i do love not to see tubing every where







very well done.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Let me know what you guys think


I'd say that looks just about perfect dude, very nicely done.


----------



## illuz

Amazing build B NEG - so so clean!


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Let me know what you guys think
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome job reaper!







Clean, solid, nice color choices. Looks very polished and professional.


----------



## stickg1

Real copper piping? That's genius. What type of fittings do you use?


----------



## Gleniu

Corsair 540 Air 'Slim triplets'


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> After many months, a bigger dent in my wallet than I ever expected, and lots of highs and lots of lows - I finally got my very first water-cooled PC up and running today! Again, it's my first go at this, but what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient GPU temp of 25c jumped up to only 33c after 15 minutes of 98% usage in FurMark. Pretty excited to see that!


Very nice but I think the GPU cables should be tucked out of sight.


----------



## stickg1

I changed my hoses so the water goes through both rads before the CPU. Hard to tell if it helped because I delidded while I had the loop taken apart.

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/deliddedWCloopRADseriesVIEW_zps71ca8633.jpg.html

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/deliddedWCloopRADseries_zps2c00231a.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

I highly doubt the loop order change made a difference in temps. nice job on delidding though


----------



## jeffblute

loop order does very little to nothing for temps, the delid would drop temps the most (if done correctly, I've seen some scary stuff lol). My general rule for doing any loop is having the least amount of tubing as possible.


----------



## Pheozero

Hey guys, quick question if i may ask, I have a EX360 going in the top of Switch 810 and was wondering if it was better to go push with some Yate Loons I have or use the XSPC fans that came with the kit and go Push/Pull with both sets of fans?


----------



## jeffblute

yes the EX will fit with no problem, I had an RX360 in the roof in push/pull and it fit fine.


----------



## Pheozero

Yeah, I checked to see if it would fit in the roof. I was just wondering what orientation I should have the fans in.


----------



## jeffblute

Go push pull, you have plenty of room.


----------



## ridgey1112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Corsair 540 Air 'Slim triplets'


Love it!!
That really makes me want to get a 540.


----------



## TheOwlHootHoot

Alright so I have been working on a water cooling loop for awhile and its coming along pretty strawng right now. I just finished the loop and I have my temps down to optimal temperatures. I've been looking through a lot of these photos for inspiration for my build. I'm hoping I can join your club.

*Parts that I used*

LG Radiator
Red "Dixie" Water Tank 2.0 Extreme 4 Cup
Pink Tubing


----------



## joostflux

Quick question for all you WC gurus.

I recently completed my first water cooling loop and I started leak testing and heard a strange noise, almost like a waterfall along with the pump itself. I have included a video of the sound and if you guys have any ideas what's up I'd really appreciate it. It sounds like it coming from the front mounted rad. So my guess is that it's trapped air, but it seems like a lot and I'm not sure what to do.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Quick question for all you WC gurus.
> 
> I recently completed my first water cooling loop and I started leak testing and heard a strange noise, almost like a waterfall along with the pump itself. I have included a video of the sound and if you guys have any ideas what's up I'd really appreciate it. It sounds like it coming from the front mounted rad. So my guess is that it's trapped air, but it seems like a lot and I'm not sure what to do.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yah, it sounds like trapped air, my rads sound like that during leak testing. Just do the usual tipping and shaking and eventually the air will work its way out.









Jeffinslaw


----------



## pc-illiterate

tip your pc in all directions. get the air bubbles to move around so they get to the res...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1185791/how-to-bleed-a-water-cooling-loop
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7k_rbibxHA&feature=player_embedded


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Quick question for all you WC gurus.
> 
> I recently completed my first water cooling loop and I started leak testing and heard a strange noise, almost like a waterfall along with the pump itself. I have included a video of the sound and if you guys have any ideas what's up I'd really appreciate it. It sounds like it coming from the front mounted rad. So my guess is that it's trapped air, but it seems like a lot and I'm not sure what to do.


Did you flush the rads out well before installing them?
Is the activity in your res 'Brisk?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

How long do the Mayhems Aurora coolants last? I came across an orange version that would just look sick with my GA-Z77X-UP7 and clear EK blocks.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17699/ex-liq-280/Mayhems_Aurora_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Orilla_Orange.html?tl=g30c337s1809

Jeffinslaw


----------



## protzman

Little teaser of my Caselabs S3,
gonna take some better pics wheni have time just wanted to enjoy it tonight









Well the picture is upside down for some reason!


----------



## joostflux

Awesome. Thanks for all the replies guys. And yes, I flushed everything out before leak testing. Although I would certainly not say that the activity in my res was 'brisk'. Stagnant would be a closer word.

+Rep to all


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Awesome. Thanks for all the replies guys. And yes, I flushed everything out before leak testing. Although I would certainly not say that the activity in my res was 'brisk'. Stagnant would be a closer word.
> 
> +Rep to all


well if the activity is stagnant. I would taken the CPU block apart and make sure that there is not a line of debris the shape of the jet plate opening sitting atop your microfins and/or just partially blocking the jet plate opening. Not uncommon for new loops to have soldering, manufacturing debris break loose in the first 10-20 hours of operation.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Quick question for all you WC gurus.
> 
> I recently completed my first water cooling loop and I started leak testing and heard a strange noise, almost like a waterfall along with the pump itself. I have included a video of the sound and if you guys have any ideas what's up I'd really appreciate it. It sounds like it coming from the front mounted rad. So my guess is that it's trapped air, but it seems like a lot and I'm not sure what to do.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks like you don't have any flow the noise is nromal till the flow goes all around it does make this noise in the first run. don't let it run dry you can damage the impeller.keep your ear open if you notice the pump are running dry turn it off add a bit water if need and turn on again, keep do it till you see the clear tubing full of water and no air inside. second the IN and OUT port are right according your loop.


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Quick question for all you WC gurus.
> 
> I recently completed my first water cooling loop and I started leak testing and heard a strange noise, almost like a waterfall along with the pump itself. I have included a video of the sound and if you guys have any ideas what's up I'd really appreciate it. It sounds like it coming from the front mounted rad. So my guess is that it's trapped air, but it seems like a lot and I'm not sure what to do.


I had the same with my dual d5 pumps
Its the air ther is parsing the pump and that it is running on 5
Try to get the air out and then run the pump on about 3.7-3.5


----------



## sectionsone

My cosmos project not finnish yet

Before

After


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Yeah, I checked to see if it would fit in the roof. I was just wondering what orientation I should have the fans in.


I use the Switch 810 and I have a 3x120 rad in the top with push pull configuration. It is the Black Ice Stealth. I have 3 fans in the top part that mount the rad to the top pulling air through the rad. On the bottom of the rad, I have 3 more fans mounted pushing air through the rad. This has worked great and fits with ease


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Very classy Sectionsone!


----------



## wot

So this is how my supreme hf full nickel looks after 1.5 year of use wirh silver + ph and distilled.
Should I be worried about it? Its in vinegar bath right now and I will try to clean it later on.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> So this is how my supreme hf full nickel looks after 1.5 year of use wirh silver + ph and distilled.
> Should I be worried about it? Its in vinegar bath right now and I will try to clean it later on.


Looks like plasticizer build up to me,give it a scrub and you will be golden


----------



## MykaAurora

Anyone painted their XSPC AX radiator? Do I need to strip original painting?


----------



## _REAPER_

I just wanted to thank everyone here for helping me with my build, I asked alot of questions from people to get it right and I appreciate the time taken to give me some guidance.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Anyone painted their XSPC AX radiator? Do I need to strip original painting?


Just give it a fine sand make sure the old scratch is nice and even don't bother to remove it all because it can be use as a base paint. Make sure you do use a very fiine paint nothing too ticker.


----------



## Ishinomori

What tube should i get in 1/2 x 5/8?

Have bought 16 BP comps second hand for a good price, now i need to change my loop plans to suit









Cheers.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Awesome. Thanks for all the replies guys. And yes, I flushed everything out before leak testing. Although I would certainly not say that the activity in my res was 'brisk'. Stagnant would be a closer word.
> 
> +Rep to all


Can you see the water flowing inside the tubes?

When I first tried leak testing my loop I almost damaged my pump. I was careful not to run the pump dry by priming its inlet port, but the water didn't flow until I primed the outlet port too. It was making a weird noise so I shut it off immediately to find out what was wrong. Nowhere had I read that the outlet port needs to be primed too.


----------



## MykaAurora

Alright, just fine sanding. But won't the color be darken as the base is black?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Corsair 540 Air 'Slim triplets'


That turned out great.

Reckon you'd be able to fit three 280mm's in push or a 360mm in the front (with fans in the front without the dust filter) and two 240mm's in push?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Alright, just fine sanding. But won't the color be darken as the base is black?


I you going to paint in light color you must prime it.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Black EK badge > silver


Nice.


----------



## MykaAurora

Alright, got it.

AX have better original paint compared to RX, so I've stripped RX's paint. But the AX's feel a lot better. Hence, the reason of asking.

Thanks!


----------



## SortOfGrim

Is water cooling the MOSFETs better than stock? Or is it only for the looks?


----------



## derickwm

For some higher end boards water cooling the mosfets can be beneficial, but for some it is generally for looks.


----------



## wot

Annnnnd this is after the cleaning *note that the top cover was clear before...


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Is water cooling the MOSFETs better than stock? Or is it only for the looks?


Depends on the board.

When overclocking X79 boards they can get pretty hot. If you were running 5GHZ 24/7 on an X79 board I'd certainly recommend it. Haven't played enough with Z77/Z87 to comment.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Depends on the board.
> 
> When overclocking X79 boards they can get pretty hot. If you were running 5GHZ 24/7 on an X79 board I'd certainly recommend it. Haven't played enough with Z77/Z87 to comment.


Funny though that on the EK site, they say that a VRM block provides the same cooling as the stock heat sink.









Quote:


> EK-FB KIT RE4 CSQ is a complete water cooling solution for ASUS Rampage IV Extreme motherboard consisting of two separate water blocks. The water blocks directly cools Intel X79 Express southbridge (PCH) chip and power regulation (VRM / MOSFETs) module. *Please note this water block cools exactly as much heat generating components as ASUS factory cooling solution*. It is medium-high to high flow water block that can be easily used with systems using weaker water pumps.


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/intel-x79/ek-fb-kit-re4-csq.html

I would think the VRM block should do much better.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> That turned out great.
> 
> Reckon you'd be able to fit three 280mm's in push or a 360mm in the front (with fans in the front without the dust filter) and two 240mm's in push?


thank you







I think 'yes' for both options.


----------



## Daredevil 720

I'm curious as well about what you get from a mobo block. An experienced overclocker I once asked told me that there's not much reason behind it for a Z77 platform.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I'm curious as well about what you get from a mobo block. An experienced overclocker I once asked told me that there's not much reason behind it for a Z77 platform.


Yupp that's right its basically for show for the z77 platform but it does help with x79 apparently


----------



## skyn3t

I'm thinking in my next buid to have a mobo capable of wb. Never had it before but like Daredevil 720. Like I skipped the z87 maybe next gen. I think the only thing I will be upgrade now is my cpu I want my 3570k into my wife's pc and sell my 25k perhaps a good chip and get me 3770k lije to increase my score and phys X. Just thinkng but same time doing it .;-)


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Annnnnd this is after the cleaning *note that the top cover was clear before...


you'll use new rubber seal? and thanks for sharing.


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Funny though that on the EK site, they say that a VRM block provides the same cooling as the stock heat sink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/intel-x79/ek-fb-kit-re4-csq.html
> 
> I would think the VRM block should do much better.


To me they're just saying it cools the same components, other factors in loop construction (water temp, flow rate, ect.) will determine the final efficiency vs the stock air-cooling?


----------



## Red1776

Hi gang,
I am just about ready to start 'Holodeck XI'
It is a 2.2kW, quad pump, quadfire, five radiator, Dual Res, custom painted, custom backplates, modded case with an *operating* custom side window. etc, etc.

decisions, decisions

maximum flow, quadfire parallel cooled




lots'O H2O

Da Color Scheme

Custom lighted backplates

Got all the sleeving stuff from OCN vendor LustroO Customs



Final color selection


it is an AMD build however








Is anyone interested in seeing the build log for it? I am going to log it for my own business purposes and wanted to know if any of you want to see it.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Quick question for all you WC gurus.
> 
> I recently completed my first water cooling loop and I started leak testing and heard a strange noise, almost like a waterfall along with the pump itself. I have included a video of the sound and if you guys have any ideas what's up I'd really appreciate it. It sounds like it coming from the front mounted rad. So my guess is that it's trapped air, but it seems like a lot and I'm not sure what to do.


That's completely normal on a bay reservoir with the D5, it'll take a few hours to get all the bubbles out and get quieter.









Mine sounds like a screaming cat when I first fill the loop.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Quick question for all you WC gurus.
> 
> I recently completed my first water cooling loop and I started leak testing and heard a strange noise, almost like a waterfall along with the pump itself. I have included a video of the sound and if you guys have any ideas what's up I'd really appreciate it. It sounds like it coming from the front mounted rad. So my guess is that it's trapped air, but it seems like a lot and I'm not sure what to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's completely normal on a bay reservoir with the D5, it'll take a few hours to get all the bubbles out and get quieter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine sounds like a screaming cat when I first fill the loop.
Click to expand...

Prop the back of the case up 4-6 inches for the first hour or two


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Black EK badge > silver


Where did you get this from?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

From here:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-single-plexi.html

The bridge was buffed to a clear finish and I assume the EK badge was just removed and painted, then reapplied.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys, I've been water cooling for a couple months now but didn't want to actually join this club until I got my rig where I wanted it. I recently got a water block for one of my 7950s and love it. It was just a universal block and I had to use a shim with it, but temps don't exceed 40c at the core. The VRMs still get around 70c though because of the heatsinks. I finally ordered myself two Alphacool Nexxos V2 7950 water block today. So excited to get them! Also, I'm ditching my "The Phantom Has Gone ROG" Phantom 820 build for a custom Extended ATX Mountain Mods Ascension case with Laser-Etched side windows and a mirror black finish. Going to throw my 360mm, 280mm, 240mm, and 200mm rads in it.. Very excited to get everything. Going to use my HAF912 test bench that I built until the case comes in.


----------



## brian1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOwlHootHoot*
> 
> Alright so I have been working on a water cooling loop for awhile and its coming along pretty strawng right now. I just finished the loop and I have my temps down to optimal temperatures. I've been looking through a lot of these photos for inspiration for my build. I'm hoping I can join your club.
> 
> *Parts that I used*
> 
> LG Radiator
> Red "Dixie" Water Tank 2.0 Extreme 4 Cup
> Pink Tubing


Looks like your room needs a solid cleaning LOL


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Where did you get this from?


What 'this' are you referring too? The black badge I painted. The CSQ single link bridge I bought from FCPU.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian1115*
> 
> Looks like your room needs a solid cleaning LOL


That's what I was thinking. His post would have been funny if I didn't throw up in my mouth when I saw that carpet and the green stains on his God awful wallpaper.


----------



## TheOwlHootHoot

Lol it looks like that because I turned the saturation on my photo up. My room isn't dirty at all.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOwlHootHoot*
> 
> Lol it looks like that because I turned the saturation on my photo up. My room isn't dirty at all.


LOL! I think it's safe to agree otherwise.


----------



## TheOwlHootHoot

The carpet is from the 60s....but it aint dirty


----------



## dr/owned

SetTitleMatchMode 1
SetTitleMatchMode Fast


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOwlHootHoot*
> 
> 
> The carpet is from the 60s....but it aint dirty


Shagtastic.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Prop the back of the case up 4-6 inches for the first hour or two


Good trick, I'll keep in mind since I'm draining my loop next week as I'm having a 5 hour trip to Spain's biggest lan party in north Spain so it'll be useful when re-filling once I arrive there.









Thanks.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I'm curious as well about what you get from a mobo block. An experienced overclocker I once asked told me that there's not much reason behind it for a Z77 platform.
> 
> 
> 
> Yupp that's right its basically for show for the z77 platform but it does help with x79 apparently
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No. My Z77 board comes with a WC capable block. I'm using it...voltage is a whole lot more stable with the VRMs being chilled. The VRMs were also getting quite warm when I was just cooling them with the fan on low.
Click to expand...

Well I stand corrected then


----------



## SuViC

OS: Windows 7 Ultimate
Antivirus: Kaspersky 2013
Case: Raidmax Super Altas (Modified)
CPU: AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core[OC'd 4.5Ghz @ 25c Idle]
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper 16GB 2x8GB DDR3 & G.Skill Ram Cooler
Videocard: Nvidia GTX 660 Ti [OC'd Core:1055Mhz Memory:1777Mhz Boost:1120Mhz]
Dedicated PhysX card: EVGA GeForce Superclocked GT 640
HDD: 500GB WD & 1TB External
DVD Drive: Lite-On iHas DL DVD burner
Powersupply: 750watt OCZ
Case Fans: 2x Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWM 120mm Black

WaterCooling:
Pump: XPSC X2O 750 Dual Bayres/Pump v4
Resevoir: XPSC X2O 750 Dual Bayres/Pump v4
Radiator: Swiftech MCR220 Rev 2
CPU Waterblock: XSPC RayStorm AMD
Fan Grill: x2 MNPCTech Skull 120mm Fan Grill
Fans: 2x ENERMAX T.B. Silence UCTB12N-R 120mm RED
Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2in.ID x 3/4in.OD with PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coil

Future plans are compression fittings adding another 660 Ti, Sound Card Etc.]

As it sits, Heres a video.
PC AMD FX-8350 16GB G.SKILL SWIFTECH XSPC WATERCOOLED HD


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hi gang,
> I am just about ready to start 'Holodeck XI'
> It is a 2.2kW, quad pump, quadfire, five radiator, Dual Res, custom painted, custom backplates, modded case with an *operating* custom side window. etc, etc.
> 
> decisions, decisions
> 
> 
> it is an AMD build however
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is anyone interested in seeing the build log for it? I am going to log it for my own business purposes and wanted to know if any of you want to see it.


I love my UD7 and it overclocks my Phenom II 1090T quite easily.


----------



## ACMH-K

Thank you all for the help and suggestions given with my first watercooling loop. So far so good, so far its been a success.
+1 rep's have been given,
I couldn't rep ya but thank you Animal for your input as well.


----------



## Tarnix

I'm 3 weeks late, but...
@MetallicAcid: Nice sleeving on that compact build! Looks very clean, and somehow cute.









I've been sick and all, didn't spend as much time as I wanted on my pc...
I need to work on the "clean" part of it, but slowly, it's getting prettier, better, and cleaner every month...
as of today:
*EDIT:* Better pic. Cleaned a bit more, changed some things.

What's new in this pic: Sleeved PCIE power extension, sleeved SATA cables, Mayhem's Dye (probably too much, first time...)


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Prop the back of the case up 4-6 inches for the first hour or two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good trick, I'll keep in mind since I'm draining my loop next week as I'm having a 5 hour trip to Spain's biggest lan party in north Spain so it'll be useful when re-filling once I arrive there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

Hey!I have an Idea!
You stay home and prop your case up to get the air out...and I will generously take your place at the LP.
,,huh....huh?


----------



## akiles333

What do you guys thinks looks best between sli connectors and sli bridges(ek-fc bridge)?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hi gang,
> I am just about ready to start 'Holodeck XI'
> It is a 2.2kW, quad pump, quadfire, five radiator, Dual Res, custom painted, custom backplates, modded case with an *operating* custom side window. etc, etc.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> decisions, decisions
> 
> maximum flow, quadfire parallel cooled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lots'O H2O
> 
> Da Color Scheme
> 
> Custom lighted backplates
> 
> Got all the sleeving stuff from OCN vendor LustroO Customs
> 
> 
> 
> Final color selection
> 
> 
> 
> it is an AMD build however
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Is anyone interested in seeing the build log for it?* I am going to log it for my own business purposes and wanted to know if any of you want to see it.


Of course we'd be interested in seeing a build log for it!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> What do you guys thinks looks best between sli connectors and sli bridges(ek-fc bridge)?


Which blocks? there's two bridges from ek at the moment. If you're using csq, look for the dual csq bridge. If not, look for a dual "terminal' bridge.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> What do you guys thinks looks best between sli connectors and sli bridges(ek-fc bridge)?


connectors if parallel


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> connectors if parallel


So you think this would look better with ek bridge?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> So you think this would look better with ek bridge?


It really is personal preference for something like this.


----------



## akiles333

Yeah... I did order a ek-fc bridge, but them i saw what a connector looked like in my build.. I kinda find the ek bridge a bit bulky really.. So i don't really know if i should return it or not...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> connectors if parallel
> 
> 
> 
> So you think this would look better with ek bridge?
Click to expand...

I am partial to bridges for aesthetics, but that is subjective obviously.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









PC brought up 'parallel' I am parallel cooling 4 GPU's with a bridge with excellent results. So you can get great performance either way. Pick the look you like


----------



## wermad

Stiffens the cards a bit.


----------



## lowfat

If you have blocks that cover the entire pcb plus backplanes you shouldn't need to worry about stiffness.


----------



## pc-illiterate

yes i think this looks better. build on bit-tech.net.
http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx233/kier1976/TJ14/DSC00831.jpg
actually looks pretty in his pictures.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you have blocks that cover the entire pcb plus backplanes you shouldn't need to worry about stiffness.


Try running three or four blocks, the bridges help quite a bit unless you have a horizontal mb layout







it gives that extra bit of tightness adjustable links don't have.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I really liked my older EK bridge better than the new ones but in general prefer bridges to connectors. The odd thing is that I used crystal link to connect my Titans because the FC Terminal wasn't out yet and I liked the look so much I never bothered to get the bridge...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I really liked my older EK bridge better than the new ones but in general prefer bridges to connectors. The odd thing is that I used crystal link to connect my Titans because the FC Terminal wasn't out yet and I liked the look so much I never bothered to get the bridge...


The old bridge was overtly complex. And even csq has the same complexity (albeit they include the adapter). They pretty much went with the same system as HK and AC use. And it works though its definitely bulkier then the HK bridged I used before.

As far as looks, I think the old bridge systems looked a lot better and they were more practical (like csq) w/ input/output ports.

edit: If you're running colored liquid, clear tube or crystal links are the best for looks.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I'm 3 weeks late, but...
> @MetallicAcid: Nice sleeving on that compact build! Looks very clean, and somehow cute.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been sick and all, didn't spend as much time as I wanted on my pc...
> I need to work on the "clean" part of it, but slowly, it's getting prettier, better, and cleaner every month...
> as of today:
> *EDIT:* Better pic. Cleaned a bit more, changed some things.
> 
> What's new in this pic: Sleeved PCIE power extension, sleeved SATA cables, Mayhem's Dye (probably too much, first time...)


Did you grow out of the phantom or switch or w/e it was that you had or is this a whole new build?


----------



## Garabatos

Hey Guys







. I know that you could help. I will buy a Waterblock (EK-FC770 GTX) for my video card . I'm using compression fitting Bitspower 7/16" ID (5/8" OD). Do you think, The GPU PCB will interfere the compression fitting?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Yupp that's right its basically for show for the z77 platform but it does help with x79 apparently


It can _possibly_ help with both, but on Z77 platform it's much less likely to do much - you are correct about that. It can help with stability maybe 5% but there's a caveat to that...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> No. My Z77 board comes with a WC capable block. I'm using it...voltage is a whole lot more stable with the VRMs being chilled. The VRMs were also getting quite warm when I was just cooling them with the fan on low.


I think that's actually almost all of the reason it's more useful to you. Based on anecdotal evidence only of course, it seems that with blocks like those on the Maximus V Formula, etc.. where a 'hybrid' block is used - that the passive cooling of the design itself is less capable, and therefore responds better when the added cooling is used. On my Maximus V Extreme - even with very high voltages (for water at least - 1.53V) the VRMs never got above 49C with the passive sinks on them... they're basically static at 34C now that I've added the waterblock - but they were always well below spec and still provided perfectly stable voltages at the higher temperatures.

Personally I agree with them being largely only for appearance in most cases - however, they also serve another purpose which is to keep all of the surrounding components cooler externally. And the way I figured it is, if I'm already using water to cool a CPU and two GPUs - why wouldn't I use the same cooling for the SB, VRM, and PLX bridge chips?


----------



## dr/owned

SetTitleMatchMode 1
SetTitleMatchMode Fast


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Personally I agree with them being largely only for appearance in most cases - however, they also serve another purpose which is to keep all of the surrounding components cooler externally. And the way I figured it is, if I'm already using water to cool a CPU and two GPUs - why wouldn't I use the same cooling for the SB, VRM, and PLX bridge chips?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the first iteration of my loop I didn't bother with the VRM block because it a) adds a huge restriction going from 1/2->3/8 and b) requires a lot more tubing and routing to get from my video cards to the VRM's. But eventually I decided that it was worth the effort to get rid of another fan. Now I only have 1 fan at the front of my case blowing over the hard drives. My rad chilling happens 25 feet away in a soundproofed room, so I'm nearly to the point of having a 100% silent home office.
Click to expand...

Thats why I spot fan the VRM/NB. A block screws with the flow needed for the GPU's. I put a 80mm spot fan on the VRM HS and it never sees 40c, hangs around 33-37c


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Thats why I spot fan the VRM/NB. A block screws with the flow needed for the GPU's. I put a 80mm spot fan on the VRM HS and it never sees 40c, hangs around 33-37c


Yeah an 80mm fan on any speed would not be an option for me - can't stand them unless they're running sub 500RPM... and below that they don't move enough air to even warrant using them. Mine would have been perfectly happy without ever being blocked as the peak temp I indicated was without any airflow at all... just testing on my desk... now that it's blocked and there's airflow from 4 120mm fans nearby it never budges from the 4-6C over ambient it gets to within a minute of booting.

Of course I'm running a more manageable OC and voltage for 24/7 ([email protected] - crap chip







) so now they're not even really being stressed. That being said... I love looking at my MIPS block through the window - even if it had _worse_ temps I'd like it... with the temps cut in half, what's not to love!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> On the first iteration of my loop I didn't bother with the VRM block because it a) adds a huge restriction going from 1/2->3/8 and b) requires a lot more tubing and routing to get from my video cards to the VRM's. But eventually I decided that it was worth the effort to get rid of another fan. Now I only have 1 fan at the front of my case blowing over the hard drives. My rad chilling happens 25 feet away in a soundproofed room, so I'm nearly to the point of having a 100% silent home office.










That's my next step... but I have to get AC into my phone/server/theater closet... and run a couple more 15A circuits to it while I'm at it... I'm looking forward to that immensely - and my system is far from loud - but still audible unless I'm listening to music while working. Seems like you've got a very nice setup there.


----------



## kingchris

just got my tubing, looks like amber is the way to go.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Funny though that on the EK site, they say that a VRM block provides the same cooling as the stock heat sink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/intel-x79/ek-fb-kit-re4-csq.html
> 
> I would think the VRM block should do much better.


It's worded poorly. I remember reading a post from Tibor (I think) stating it means 'cools the same components as the stock cooler', not cools to the same capacity. We all know watercooling is more efficient than passive cooling.

I remember when I first read that was I like hmmm that doesn't quite work inside my head. Lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think 'yes' for both options.


Thanks for the info.


----------



## kcuestag

I'm going to a lan party next week, it'll be a 5-6 hour trip in car, and the computer will be laying down in the car. Do you guys think draining the loop is enough? To be fair, I don't feel like removing any components except for the water.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Is there a way to know if a certain type of tubing will have plasticizer issues before I put it in a loop? I'm testing some tubing I ordered from Mcmaster carr but I don't want to put it in my loop only to find in a month it plasticizes, Is there something I can do to speed up the process on the test bench? Thanks!


----------



## Ishinomori

What are your guys thoughts on having the AP123's on the front of a RadXT240 (mounted onto the front of the case) with the speed turned down to ~1100rpm?


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


I would like one in each color please,









Side note: I HATE Newegg. They use to be a great resource, now it's mostly outdated products ( like overstock.com for geeks) at the same retail price they were offered at originally and then silly little sales, which of course they recoup with their bloated, slow, untrustworthy shipping costs. I really wish to God they hadn't added that Marketplace (Walmart) crap.....the site has gone downhill ever since and Customer service? HAHAHAHAHA ooops I just peed myself a lil. The only way to get a response from anyone is to blow up their Facebook wall with temper tantrums and then they send you a canned template letter to hopefully shut you up. (Deep breathe......OOOOSA!) .OK I feel better now....PPCS has spoiled me rotten!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Interesting. Going to be voting on those, or it's already decided they're rolling out?


----------



## JottaD

Loops are finished ready for testing


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. Going to be voting on those, or it's already decided they're rolling out?
Click to expand...

Hehe they're already for sale


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hehe they're already for sale












Now send me a blue one.


----------



## akiles333

Should i ditch the ek bridge and start filling?


----------



## Zamoldac

I need some opinions about a 90degree fitting between the reservoir and the pump, could this affect the pump flow? (starve it?) it seems to run ok but i wanted to double check with someone who has done something similar previously.










Any input is appreciated!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm going to a lan party next week, it'll be a 5-6 hour trip in car, and the computer will be laying down in the car. Do you guys think draining the loop is enough? To be fair, I don't feel like removing any components except for the water.


I wouldnt even bother to drain it if I were you








as long as you've a secure loop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> I need some opinions about a 90degree fitting between the reservoir and the pump, could this affect the pump flow? (starve it?) it seems to run ok but i wanted to double check with someone who has done something similar previously.
> 
> Any input is appreciated!


from what I read on martinlab , angled adapters has very minimal impact on the flow rate
I would not worry about it too much as long as you have good temps or no complains on the pump such as noise etc


----------



## jokrik

Double


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> I need some opinions about a 90degree fitting between the reservoir and the pump, could this affect the pump flow? (starve it?) it seems to run ok but i wanted to double check with someone who has done something similar previously.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any input is appreciated!


A single 90 like that will have hardly any effect at all on flow rate, temps, etc.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Only the door to do,she is going back to the customer tomorrow so i can just send the door on afterwards.


----------



## kcuestag

Looks beautiful B NEG!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I wouldnt even bother to drain it if I were you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as long as you've a secure loop


I would do that but I don't feel confident specially since there will be 3 other computers on the same car so if the water leaks all around the car they'll be mad at me.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Only the door to do,she is going back to the customer tomorrow so i can just send the door on afterwards.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well done.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Looks beautiful B NEG!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would do that but I don't feel confident specially since there will be 3 other computers on the same car so if the water leaks all around the car they'll be mad at me.


Here's what I would do. Just check everything first to be sure everything is tight and snug. Particularly your fittings. Then just place some towels under your rig. That way if there is a leak the towels should absorb most if not all of the fluid. I've transported water cooled systems a number of times and have yet to have any leak on me. One was a four hour drive in a trunk and the shocks weren't that great. It still didn't have any issues. I really do think you'll be fine if you don't drain it first.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Only the door to do,she is going back to the customer tomorrow so i can just send the door on afterwards.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is almost disgustingly beautiful. Well done.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Looks beautiful B NEG!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would do that but I don't feel confident specially since there will be 3 other computers on the same car so if the water leaks all around the car they'll be mad at me.


My loop is pretty simple, but I had no problems last time I transported my rig. Just threw it in the vehicle, though it was standing upright, and that was that. Arrived in one piece, and is still in one piece. Haven't had to take the loop down at all since it was put together. I too would say that as long you are confident all your fittings are tight, you should be OK, minus some air running through the system for the first few hours since it would be on it's side in the vehicle. I wouldn't want to be worrying about it the whole time either though, so if it makes you more comfortable, just drain it


----------



## pc-illiterate

I keep reading people advising about 90* fittings on pumps. How many in your loop doesn't matter too much but where they are do.
Martin said avoid 90* fittings on a pumps inlet. It compromises the flow into the pump and upsets the balance of the impeller. It puts unneeded stress on the impeller and somewhat hurts its performance. Anyone asking or answering can Google it and find the answer.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> I keep reading people advising about 90* fittings on pumps. How many in your loop doesn't matter too much but where they are do.
> Martin said avoid 90* fittings on a pumps inlet. It compromises the flow into the pump and upsets the balance of the impeller. It puts unneeded stress on the impeller and somewhat hurts its performance. Anyone asking or answering can Google it and find the answer.


I would say have no more that 4 90's in the loop. (I pull 4 outta no where because I used to work as an electrician, and when running conduit we would always stick to the rule of no more than 4 90's in a run....otherwise it's a huge pain in the arse when pulling wire through it - does this in anyway relate to the flow in a water cooling loop? Probably not)









As for avoiding a 90 on the inlet of a pump, I would agree with that. But if referring specifically to what Zamoldac was asking about, he has a 90 coming off the bottom of his res, then a tube feeds into his pump....I believe it was, kind of hard to tell from the photo. But, in that situation the 90 is hardly doing anything to effect the pump.


----------



## snef

im agree, if possible, avoiding 90 is a good thing but my purple chimera have 14 x 90 in the loop and I don't have any flow rate or performance issue

I think its not the same on each rig

I have a really good flow on this , little bit over 1.3 Gpm

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/purple Chimera/purplechimera-24_zps84a49997.jpg.html


----------



## dr/owned

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----------



## nleksan

I have my pump mounted directly to my reservoir courtesy a BP 90deg rotary adapter and BP m-m rotary coupler, and it has not a single issue....


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

It's entertaining to see how things have changed in the last year. People used to criticize harshly builds that had abrupt 90 degree turns instead of triple rotary fittings, now everyone and their mom is using 90 degree fittings and hard tube.

Running rotaries instead of abrupt 90s actually saved my build from needing more than 2 pumps, but I suppose it all depends on how much crap the liquid has to flow through


----------



## dr/owned

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## PCModderMike

What kind and where are you buying fittings that only cost 50 cents a piece?


----------



## dr/owned

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## dr/owned

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## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> Regular single barb white polyethylene stuff (EDIT: link). USPlastic sell them a little bit cheaper than McMaster, but I'm familiar / comfortable with McMaster.
> 
> Another example: I think Koolance charges something like $15 for a ball valve + you have to buy barbs. I use $2 irrigation valves. Sure they're plastic and not as sleek looking, but they get the job done.


Interesting, can't knock the ingenuity of using that stuff.








Personally though, I would rather stick to my BP fittings....even if I did spend 12 bucks a pop on some 90's last night.


----------



## wermad

I've never been afraid of using 90°s but If I can, I try to use fluid bends with 3/8x5/8 tube. I'm surprised not many ppl are bending/shaping the acrylic tube and instead going for a massive amounts of angled fittings/adapters. The primochill guide on bending makes it seem like its very doable for the experienced user.


----------



## gdubc

I think it's more about the space that it takes to get a 90 degree turn when you bend tubing


----------



## dr/owned

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## PedroC1999

How do you pump 1.575v into an Ivy? You mad?


----------



## dr/owned

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----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've never been afraid of using 90°s but If I can, I try to use fluid bends with 3/8x5/8 tube. I'm surprised not many ppl are bending/shaping the acrylic tube and instead going for a massive amounts of angled fittings/adapters. The primochill guide on bending makes it seem like its very doable for the experienced user.












So the 1st time I create my loop, it has to be perfect









MetallicAcid


----------



## PedroC1999

Best of luck with that!









Im running 4.9 @ 1.420+ EXTREME LCC, should last 4 years ish+


----------



## OPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I have a really good flow on this , little bit over 1.3 Gpm


What did you use to measure and read GPM? Koolance?


----------



## dr/owned

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## Jetskyer

AquaComputer makes flow sensors as well. Instead of an impeller they make use of the pressure differential, so zero moving parts and zero restriction.


----------



## sate200

pics for my rig!!!


----------



## Cosworth

dont mean to crash the party but here is a couple of fun night shots of my rig, internal redness from my rad fans


----------



## PinzaC55

I thought about getting a Flow Meter but a search here revealed many old threads suggesting they were needless, impeded flow and were rather cheesey. Not my opinion, just repeating what I read


----------



## defiler2k

Hi guys this is my build so far. Im looking to add another GTX 770 and contemplating rigid tubing when I go 3 way SLI.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the 1st time I create my loop, it has to be perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


Nice curves


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I thought about getting a Flow Meter but a search here revealed many old threads suggesting they were needless, impeded flow and were rather cheesey. Not my opinion, just repeating what I read


This is sort of incorrect.....Most of the flow meters basically are water wheel's with some electronics to read it's frequency, from which you can calculate the rate the fluid. An water wheel is used to restrict the fluid's ability to rapidly change in flow. Once the wheel is moving at the same rate of the fluid, the fluid can pass unimpeded. This is the theory, at least.

In reality, there will be a small amount of restriction, but such a small amount that it will not be noticeable. It would be on the same order as a little extra tubing (like a couple millimeters) and you will not notice it.

In electronics, this is the inductor....

Whether it is cheesy or an unneeded measurement is a matter of opinion, but restriction shouldn't be a concern.


----------



## dr/owned

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## Jetskyer

I think you mean the AquaComputer one, as far as I know isn't Alphacool in the game (yet).
I think you're right about them using the Doppler effect though, quite amazing that they could fit that in such a small package.

@cyphon:
It's not really true that a flowmeter only restricts when the flowrate changes. In essense the flowmeter internally looks mostly like a T-fitting, which has a restriction almost as bad as a 90 degree fitting (even when flow passes straight through)
That said, 90 degree fittings compared to a cpu block are nothing so what are we worrying about


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the 1st time I create my loop, it has to be perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


Looking good Metallic.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im agree, if possible, avoiding 90 is a good thing but my purple chimera have 14 x 90 in the loop and I don't have any flow rate or performance issue
> 
> I think its not the same on each rig
> 
> I have a really good flow on this , little bit over 1.3 Gpm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/purple Chimera/purplechimera-24_zps84a49997.jpg.html


that is so beautiful man, I rarely see a purple theme build... especially with white
Im sold


----------



## Cosworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I thought about getting a Flow Meter but a search here revealed many old threads suggesting they were needless, impeded flow and were rather cheesey. Not my opinion, just repeating what I read


I agree with you there I did a few searches about it when putting my shopping list together and after running it for a while I can honestly say as long as temps are kept an eye on flow rate isn't an issue but this is just my experience


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Best of luck with that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im running 4.9 @ 1.420+ EXTREME LCC, should last 4 years ish+


Although I commend you on that (my chip is absolute crap and can't even hit 4.7 util 1.46







) are you really planning on running your IB CPU in 4 years?!? I don't mean being able to - my S370 CPUs will still work fine... but that doesn't mean they're worth even putting power to any more.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good Metallic.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice curves


Thanks guys.I am wanting to get the last tbe bent this week... Let's see if time, and baby, allow this to happen









MetallicAcid


----------



## lowfat

Still a WIP but the loop is done.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-6.jpg.html


----------



## Sunreeper

Holy mother of poop that is good!


----------



## PedroC1999

That looks incredible, good job


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Still a WIP but the loop is done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-6.jpg.html


If only there is a way for you to do reverse ATX... those gorgeous blocks won't be seen with normal ATX









Jeffinslaw


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Still a WIP but the loop is done.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-6.jpg.html


Looks great. Got any close ups?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> If only there is a way for you to do reverse ATX... those gorgeous blocks won't be seen with normal ATX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


All you have to do to reverse ATX is the following....

Download the picture to your own PC,
Go into PhotoShop and rotate it 180*,
Re upload in your name.

Congrats! You have just reversed an ATX layout!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> If only there is a way for you to do reverse ATX... those gorgeous blocks won't be seen with normal ATX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Ya I'd be prefer inverse ATX but I'll still be able to take pics of the system and show off a lot of the blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Looks great. Got any close ups?


I'll be posting a bunch of pics in my worklog shortly. But very few actual pics of it at this stage. I took these pics after 10pm and I was losing light fast. I'll try to take better pics tomorrow during the day.


----------



## lvlrdka22

Well, no pictures for now, but I managed to squeeze in a custom loop into my Lian Li PC-Q25B







, with a 140mm radiator in the front and a Yate Loon that has its shroud mostly removed as pull (push won't work, had to almost destroy the entire fan to figure that out).
Currently running a used 2500K and 4 WD Reds (HDD cage still intact).
I ended up having to borrow the pumps from my other build since the pump I bought has aluminum casing







, so the graphics card slot is currently blocked. Ah well, once I find the need to get one (when I sell off my other build's main parts), the space will probably be free, since the next upgrade I'm thinking of is switching from the CPU-360 and the dual pump combination to the Apogee Drive.
The only mod I did was drill a fillport in the front.

I'm also thinking that I can probably make a 120mm radiator fit in the top without modding the case, provided I mod the fan a bit, which should be suffiicient for a CPU+GPU loop.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Still a WIP but the loop is done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-6.jpg.html


Goddamn...


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I would say have no more that 4 90's in the loop. (I pull 4 outta no where because I used to work as an electrician, and when running conduit we would always stick to the rule of no more than 4 90's in a run....otherwise it's a huge pain in the arse when pulling wire through it - does this in anyway relate to the flow in a water cooling loop? Probably not)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for avoiding a 90 on the inlet of a pump, I would agree with that. But if referring specifically to what Zamoldac was asking about, he has a 90 coming off the bottom of his res, then a tube feeds into his pump....I believe it was, kind of hard to tell from the photo. But, in that situation the 90 is hardly doing anything to effect the pump.


Thanks for your input guys!


----------



## SortOfGrim

In the quest for cool and rad, which of these slim 360 radiators performs the best?

Alphacool NexXxoS ST30
HL Black Ice GT Stealth 360
Koolance HX-CU1020V
MagiCool SLIM TRIPLE 360
Swiftech MCR320
XSPC EX360 Slim Line
XSPC EX360MP Multiport Series

Also would I see improvement, stated that I currently use a 240x30mm rad?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> In the quest for cool and rad, which of these slim 360 radiators performs the best?
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS ST30
> HL Black Ice GT Stealth 360
> Koolance HX-CU1020V
> MagiCool SLIM TRIPLE 360
> Swiftech MCR320
> XSPC EX360 Slim Line
> XSPC EX360MP Multiport Series
> 
> Also would I see improvement, stated that I currently use a 240x30mm rad?


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> In the quest for cool and rad, which of these slim 360 radiators performs the best?
> *[*] Alphacool NexXxoS ST30*
> [*] HL Black Ice GT Stealth 360
> [*] Koolance HX-CU1020V
> [*] MagiCool SLIM TRIPLE 360
> [*] Swiftech MCR320
> [*] XSPC EX360 Slim Line
> [*] XSPC EX360MP Multiport Series
> 
> Also would I see improvement, stated that I currently use a 240x30mm rad?


Sure would... even if you picked a rad that wasn't any more efficient - you'd still have a larger radiating area... but if you pick a more efficient one - then it should be even more than just 1/3rd better...


----------



## oelkanne

hmmm..now im asking myself...any tipps for an 480 Rad??

wanna put eloops to it...


----------



## thestache

Hoping someone with sub ambient cooling experience could chime in here.

Always wondered what the best way to combat condensation on the tubing was?

Would thin OD tubing for the initial tubing that carries the water and then a second set of larger ID tubing around that with its air barrier be enough to overcome condensation? Since that's what they do with anti fog goggles and such.

Also saw this which looks pretty neat.

http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/koolance_exc_800_portable_800w_liquid_chiller.html


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm going to a lan party next week, it'll be a 5-6 hour trip in car, and the computer will be laying down in the car. Do you guys think draining the loop is enough? To be fair, I don't feel like removing any components except for the water.


Definitely do not drain it. No Need. Waste of good lanning time to bleed.

Keep it upright and you'll be fine as for your friends boxes same thing applies.

I've carried 5 Water cooled systems in my car never an issue ever, I always pack old blankets around them and even use the seat belts on the outer ones


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Still a WIP but the loop is done.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-6.jpg.html


----------



## Kenjiwing

love the build lowfat.. only thing that looks a little off to me is the fact that you didnt sleeve the crystal link tubing.


----------



## illuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> love the build lowfat.. only thing that looks a little off to me is the fact that you didnt sleeve the crystal link tubing.


That would certainly be the finishing touch for me, awesome build there!


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> love the build lowfat.. only thing that looks a little off to me is the fact that you didnt sleeve the crystal link tubing.


Agreed


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Definitely do not drain it. No Need. Waste of good lanning time to bleed.
> 
> Keep it upright and you'll be fine as for your friends boxes same thing applies.
> 
> I've carried 5 Water cooled systems in my car never an issue ever, I always pack old blankets around them and even use the seat belts on the outer ones


Thing is the computer can't stay upright, it'll have to be layed down in the car's trunk, that's why I don't feel too confident in keeping the loop full.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Hoping someone with sub ambient cooling experience could chime in here.
> 
> Always wondered what the best way to combat condensation on the tubing was?
> 
> Would thin OD tubing for the initial tubing that carries the water and then a second set of larger ID tubing around that with its air barrier be enough to overcome condensation? Since that's what they do with anti fog goggles and such.
> 
> Also saw this which looks pretty neat.
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/koolance_exc_800_portable_800w_liquid_chiller.html


Not the prettiest, but neoprene foam tubing insulation is what should be put over tubing in a chilled loop.

This is from a post from our very own foxarena. Probably won't have to be this thick unless you are way under dew point.

.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> love the build lowfat.. only thing that looks a little off to me is the fact that you didnt sleeve the crystal link tubing.


It isn't possible. Plus I have a coolant mixed up that matches the tube sleeving perfectly.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It isn't possible. Plus I have a coolant mixed up that matches the tube sleeving perfectly.


I like that it is not sleeved, it matches the blocks









Great work!


----------



## dr/owned

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----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Did you grow out of the phantom or switch or w/e it was that you had or is this a whole new build?


Yeah, I grew out of them. I ended up buying the Define R4, and I'm saving for the 900D...

P.S.:
@sate200 Nice build! Very clean!
@MetallicAcid Yay, clear solid tubing!


----------



## 209ham




----------



## dr/owned

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----------



## 209ham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> Dear jesus that 900D is massive. I presume you're going to WC those graphics cards...because otherwise WAY too many rads.


haha, yeah I plan to WC both my GTX 780s down the road. However, I will prob add another quad on the bottom for it







LOL


----------



## Egami

Heya guys. I bought the Swiftech MCP35X but am having an issue with the fittings: They won't go in. The pics below show how far I can get the fittings by hand. Going further than that would require some serious wrenching and I have a creeping feeling that might not be the solution? All other gear I have behaves "normally", i.e. I can get the fittings fully in place by using fingers only.

I tried three different fittings; the Swiftech ones that came with the pump (1st pic), Bitspower and EK.







Is anyone else having this issue or is this pump really a serious wrench / rma case?


----------



## Kenjiwing

Did you inspect the threading on the pump inlet? Jamming the fittings in probably made it worse.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Heya guys. I bought the Swiftech MCP35X but am having an issue with the fittings: They won't go in. The pics below show how far I can get the fittings by hand. Going further than that would require some serious wrenching and I have a creeping feeling that might not be the solution? All other gear I have behaves "normally", i.e. I can get the fittings fully in place by using fingers only.
> 
> I tried three different fittings; the Swiftech ones that came with the pump (1st pic), Bitspower and EK.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is anyone else having this issue or is this pump really a serious wrench / rma case?


It looks like it wasn't threaded all the way in the factory?







I don't have an answer, I will wait for someone who has more knowledge to respond...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## cyphon

Bad threadings can happen...I've had them where the fitting goes in on an angle







. These of course leaked on me (tested before getting anywhere near my build







)

Looks like it is time for an RMA. They should send you another since it is a manufacturing issue.


----------



## mbondPDX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It looks like it wasn't threaded all the way in the factory?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have an answer, I will wait for someone who has more knowledge to respond...
> 
> Jeffinslaw


This would be my guess too. I have a 35x and it didn't have this issue.


----------



## defiler2k

Nice build specially how the red trim on the fans plays with the red cooling. Did you go with a 480 or a 360 rad? I was disappointed that installing my AX480 even with a push fan config I lost my top 5 1/4 bay.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> Dear jesus that 900D is massive. I presume you're going to WC those graphics cards...because otherwise WAY too many rads.


I think there is only one on the top, the chain of fans in the bottom doesn't seem to be attached to the loop.


----------



## Egami

Staring in the outlet and inlet holes it looks like the inlet's way too short and the outlet indeed has some threading anomalies going on. Thanks guys. RMA here we come...


----------



## 209ham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Nice build specially how the red trim on the fans plays with the red cooling. Did you go with a 480 or a 360 rad? I was disappointed that installing my AX480 even with a push fan config I lost my top 5 1/4 bay.


It is a 480 on the top. I also lost my top slot. But wasn't a loss for me either way.

And the bottom is just fans as well as the front. Will add another 480 on the bottom when I WC my 780s.


----------



## Egami

By the way, now as I got to asking things; I've seen loads of people attaching their reservoirs straight to the pumps. How is this done, and is it possible to pull it off with the MCP35X? Google didn't yield anything when I tried.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Hey guys, anyone have an old d5 or ddc their looking to sell? Or know of any place to get them cheap?


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Hey guys, anyone have an old d5 or ddc their looking to sell? Or know of any place to get them cheap?


Cheap ddcs

http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> By the way, now as I got to asking things; I've seen loads of people attaching their reservoirs straight to the pumps. How is this done, and is it possible to pull it off with the MCP35X? Google didn't yield anything when I tried.


I used a 20mm Bitspower Male to Male piece.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10363/ex-tub-609/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C08.html?tl=g30c101s1354

Jeffinslaw


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Staring in the outlet and inlet holes it looks like the inlet's way too short and the outlet indeed has some threading anomalies going on. Thanks guys. RMA here we come...


You don't have to go with an RMA. It's just the top that has the bad threads. We can just replace your top for you. Underneath it's just a Laing DDC. Send me a PM and we'll go from there.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> By the way, now as I got to asking things; I've seen loads of people attaching their reservoirs straight to the pumps. How is this done, and is it possible to pull it off with the MCP35X? Google didn't yield anything when I tried.


I'm pretty sure there are some mod tops for these pumps that allow you to attach a reservoir directly to the pump. However, use of one of these reservoir tops will void your warranty for the pump.


----------



## Wasupwitdat1

I am finally done with this build. I named it The SM8 Double & Twisted Snot Box. "Double" for the dual loop cooling, "Twisted" for the 90 degree orientation mod I did, and "Snot Box" well because I wanted some bragging rights so I threw in a lot of Bitspower fittings into a Caselabs box. I haven't upgraded the board to an ROG board yet and I'm still with the i7 970 CPU and 3 channel memory but it's fast @ 4.2 GHz and 1600 GHz Mem speed. I've been working on this for the better part of five months now and I'm finally to a point where I'm happy. I know you'll be saying, Yea right. I have the sickness for modding. I'm obsessed. But I'm taking a break for now. Got to get back on my bike. Anyway, here's the pics.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> By the way, now as I got to asking things; I've seen loads of people attaching their reservoirs straight to the pumps. How is this done, and is it possible to pull it off with the MCP35X? Google didn't yield anything when I tried.


I just connected mine with a male to male BP fitting:



You can also use a D-Plug or get a pump top/reservoir kit like EK's....


----------



## Jetskyer

Is it me or is everyone forgetting about the swiftech reservoir special made for the mcp35x?

See now it has not so nice reviews but like mentioned before you can just use a male-to-male plug.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm pretty sure there are some mod tops for these pumps that allow you to attach a reservoir directly to the pump. However, use of one of these reservoir tops will void your warranty for the pump.


Righto. Thanks for this. That pump thing has actually puzzled me for a really long time now so it's good to know I haven't missed something obvious. Original top and fittings are fine with me.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I just connected mine with a male to male BP fitting:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also use a D-Plug or get a pump top/reservoir kit like EK's....


Hmm. That's very handy. I like.
The planned res is going to be Alphacool's HF 38 Cape Cyclone 150 v.2 so it's actually a relief not to be able to direct-connect stuff to the pump. Would have required some serious magic to pull it off with that res.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wasupwitdat1*
> 
> I am finally done with this build. I named it The SM8 Double & Twisted Snot Box. "Double" for the dual loop cooling, "Twisted" for the 90 degree orientation mod I did, and "Snot Box" well because I wanted some bragging rights so I threw in a lot of Bitspower fittings into a Caselabs box. I haven't upgraded the board to an ROG board yet and I'm still with the i7 970 CPU and 3 channel memory but it's fast @ 4.2 GHz and 1600 GHz Mem speed. I've been working on this for the better part of five months now and I'm finally to a point where I'm happy. I know you'll be saying, Yea right. I have the sickness for modding. I'm obsessed. But I'm taking a break for now. Got to get back on my bike. Anyway, here's the pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jetskyer

Haha, very appropriate gif









Wondering though, does the top rad breathe the air of the bottom? or do they blow air towards each other.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wasupwitdat1*
> 
> I am finally done with this build. I named it The SM8 Double & Twisted Snot Box. "Double" for the dual loop cooling, "Twisted" for the 90 degree orientation mod I did, and "Snot Box" well because I wanted some bragging rights so I threw in a lot of Bitspower fittings into a Caselabs box. I haven't upgraded the board to an ROG board yet and I'm still with the i7 970 CPU and 3 channel memory but it's fast @ 4.2 GHz and 1600 GHz Mem speed. I've been working on this for the better part of five months now and I'm finally to a point where I'm happy. I know you'll be saying, Yea right. I have the sickness for modding. I'm obsessed. But I'm taking a break for now. Got to get back on my bike. Anyway, here's the pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pix










speechless.
Freaking awesome!


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *209ham*
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wasupwitdat1*
Click to expand...









Mind your back when lifting!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*










What lighting are you using? it looks ominous (but in a good way







)

--
PS; just ordered the Alphacool NexXxoS ST30!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wasupwitdat1*
> 
> I am finally done with this build. I named it The SM8 Double & Twisted Snot Box. "Double" for the dual loop cooling, "Twisted" for the 90 degree orientation mod I did, and "Snot Box" well because I wanted some bragging rights so I threw in a lot of Bitspower fittings into a Caselabs box. I haven't upgraded the board to an ROG board yet and I'm still with the i7 970 CPU and 3 channel memory but it's fast @ 4.2 GHz and 1600 GHz Mem speed. I've been working on this for the better part of five months now and I'm finally to a point where I'm happy. I know you'll be saying, Yea right. I have the sickness for modding. I'm obsessed. But I'm taking a break for now. Got to get back on my bike. Anyway, here's the pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's awesome man! Did you get the top panel done by Case Labs or diy? I would imagine if the dimensions are the same and CL are somewhat modular, it would be easy to diy, ?

Sweet rig all in all









Btw, go to your user profile. Scroll down and at the bottom its the rig builder. Click on edit and follow the prompts to fill out your system specs. This will auto populate w/ your posts and you can free up your signature for other things like a build log.


----------



## TampaChaz

Great builds! All of them. I feel like a little kid sitting in the window, watching everyone else play outside. I'm still stalled in finishing the NZXT until I get the back plates finished. I know patience is a virtue.....but I'm not feeling very virtuous right now, I wanna play!


----------



## Dankar

any of you use azxt phantom 820 full case. Just love the room and air flow


----------



## Wasupwitdat1

Thankx wermad I'll edit the profile. The top is Caselabs 31mm ventilated top cover. I cut the back opening of the cover for the cables to exit. There are more pics of the mod process in the case mods thread under Caselabs owners club.


----------



## dr/owned

SetTitleMatchMode 1
SetTitleMatchMode Fast


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> I like looking at what other people do, but for my build minimal effs are given about appearance. I couldn't justify spending so much time making it look awesome unless there were a performance benefit. Red LEDs are worth an extra 10C cooling right?


Nono, red makes your computer run faster, blue makes it run cooler, and green makes it use less power.


----------



## TampaChaz

Then I should be able to reach the end of the internet the first night of burn in! Hehe


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wasupwitdat1*
> 
> Thankx wermad I'll edit the profile. The top is Caselabs 31mm ventilated top cover. I cut the back opening of the cover for the cables to exit. There are more pics of the mod process in the case mods thread under Caselabs owners club.


Put a build log together. Would love to see how you put it together! Its just very kewl


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Agreed. The 90 degree mobo rotation was the main reason I went with my TJ11. Would've never even considered doing it myself!


----------



## lowfat

Just a couple of more pics w/ better lighting.









Not close to being done yet.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-11-4.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-33.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-14-3.jpg.html


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just a couple of more pics w/ better lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Not close to being done yet*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-11-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-33.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-14-3.jpg.html


Good lord man, hasn't it been like a year or so already? By the time you get done with this build we won't even be using desktop computers anymore!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Good lord man, hasn't it been like a year or so already? By the time you get done with this build we won't even be using desktop computers anymore!!


Bought the case in March or something of 2012.









I build at a very very slow pace. But it also gives me more time for better ideas.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just a couple of more pics w/ better lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not close to being done yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-11-4.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-33.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-14-3.jpg.html


Looking good


----------



## ledzepp3

Hey guys







I've decided that for my new build I'm going completely acrylic, but I'm wondering how could I possibly frost some of the tubing? Any suggestions, and experiences?

Thanks!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've decided that for my new build I'm going completely acrylic, but I'm wondering how could I possibly frost some of the tubing? Any suggestions, and experiences?
> 
> Thanks!


Sand it. The reservoir I posted above was originally clear. I wet sanded it w/ 800 grit. But I wanted a brushed look. Move to 1000 then 1500 if you want a smoother finish.


----------



## ledzepp3

You have any pictures of the finished product?


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just a couple of more pics w/ better lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not close to being done yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-11-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-33.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-14-3.jpg.html




That is an amazing build, did you plastidip your sli connector? Cause I was thinking about doing that to mines.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> You have any pictures of the finished product?


Scroll like 5 posts up.









Or one w/o coolant in it

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/tulcakelume/PCA77F/export-6-5.jpg
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> That is an amazing build, did you plastidip your sli connector? Cause I was thinking about doing that to mines.


Yessir.


----------



## ugod987

Use both silver coil or silver bullet and biocide.


----------



## ugod987

Also Uv lighting helps alot also


----------



## Triniboi82

Nice glad to know it's safe to do so


----------



## MetallicAcid

The acrylic tube bending is finally complete! Hopefully by the end of the week, I will have a functioning water cooling loop! It is photo barrage time









http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02982_zpsd148b3df.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02980_zpsb94ce0a6.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02976_zpse205a374.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02973_zps6c25b004.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02972_zps684d2499.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02971_zpsc9b11785.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02969_zps8b85b2d8.jpg.html

Very happy!
MetallicAcid


----------



## gdubc

That is incredible work. Especially the piece that goes from cpu to the rad...it flows with the line in the baseplate so well. How many tries did that take?


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That is incredible work. Especially the piece that goes from cpu to the rad...it flows with the line in the baseplate so well. How many tries did that take?


Just 3...







1m was wasted trying to get it right.

MetallicAcid


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm pretty sure there are some mod tops for these pumps that allow you to attach a reservoir directly to the pump. However, use of one of these reservoir tops will void your warranty for the pump.


Even though I understood what you meant here... in light of the question asked I thought it warranted a bit more clarity....

Putting a different top on an MCP35X will void the warranty... but directly connecting a reservoir (using a male-to-male adapter to the stock top) will NOT void the warranty... hence the Swiftech branded option which also does this (although the reservoir isn't made very well in that case apparently - as there are many poor reviews at numerous retailers for it).


----------



## wermad

Koolance makes a top that has a reservoir attachment for it. Both for the DDC and D5. If you have any warranty concerns, I'm sure they wouldn't void it by using their own products on their branded Laing pumps







. Unless they do.....


----------



## nleksan

I wouldn't suggest getting a different top for the MCP35X anyway, as the stock top is actually the top-performing pump-top available AFAIK....


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Now I've seen about enough of this acrylic tubing bending. It's of the devil and no mortal man can resist it!
*desperately clings to wallet


----------



## Shogon

Awesome job on the acrylic bending! Especially going from the CPU to the rad









Koolance makes a nice frosty reservoir too, does so well with that color of fluid.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I wouldn't suggest getting a different top for the MCP35X anyway, as the stock top is actually the top-performing pump-top available AFAIK....


All of this.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thing is the computer can't stay upright, it'll have to be layed down in the car's trunk, that's why I don't feel too confident in keeping the loop full.


Damm. Can it be stood up in the trunk or on the rear seat?


----------



## MetallicAcid

I need some help guys and girls.

Can someone please measure for me, your GTX Titan/780 EK backplate? I am wanting to fabricate my own, but need some measurements first before I can start cutting









MetallicAcid


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I need some help guys and girls.
> 
> Can someone please measure for me, your GTX Titan/780 EK backplate? I am wanting to fabricate my own, but need some measurements first before I can start cutting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


Two Titans... But no backplates...


----------



## oelkanne

hmmm sorry for OT People but...im Searching for somebody ho got some Badass Graffiti Skills...

The Idea behind is he Backlight Option in my new Build....and my problem is the fact that i got to "write" the "Letter´s" from top to bottom....

somebody anybody some idea who could help me??


----------



## derickwm

I'll just leave this here


----------



## nleksan

DO WANT!


----------



## Egami

Is so white...







Wants.


----------



## lowfat

Galaxy should start manufacturing matching motherboards.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just leave this here


Why you do dis to me?


----------



## derickwm

Yes they should lowfat.

Go vote if you want to see a block for it


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Galaxy should start manufacturing matching motherboards.


Agreed. Would be so awesome for white builds.


----------



## dr/owned

SetTitleMatchMode 1
SetTitleMatchMode Fast


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Even though I understood what you meant here... in light of the question asked I thought it warranted a bit more clarity....
> 
> Putting a different top on an MCP35X will void the warranty... but directly connecting a reservoir (using a male-to-male adapter to the stock top) will NOT void the warranty... hence the Swiftech branded option which also does this (although the reservoir isn't made very well in that case apparently - as there are many poor reviews at numerous retailers for it).


This is correct. Placing a reservoir on it, that doesn't require the pump to be taken apart, won't void your warranty for this pump. Also to clarify, if you use our Maelstrom reservoir or MCRx20 Drive radiator units that might require you to take the pump apart to install these devices, this also won't void your warranty for this pump because these are Swiftech branded devices that we've tested to be used with this pump.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> Another option might be spray paint. I know rustoleum makes a frosted-clear spray.


Wet sanding works great. I've used like a 320 then a 600 and it turned out pretty good. I used small circular motions to give it a clouded look, however.

I've heard steel wool works as well....I have not tried this


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes they should lowfat.
> 
> Go vote if you want to see a block for it


Definitely voted O.O


----------



## defiler2k

For those of you doing acrylic tubing, what are you using to cut the tubes? I think I might go this route when I add my other GPUS to the loop and do a refresh, however I have no clue what to use to cut the tubes.


----------



## Jetskyer

I believe B- uses a normal metal saw, you can see it here in the first post of his 101:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101


----------



## snef

I use dremel with cutting wheele

But u can use any mini or regular hacksaw


----------



## nismoskyline

Some progress! I finally attained enough parts to start my 800d build










Some rad goodness that will be going in the beast


specs:
xeon L5520
Corsair dominator 6gb
gtx 560ti sli
evga x58ftw3
60gb ssd
500gb hdd

i know the hardware isn't the latest generation, but i cannot complain since i got everything dirt cheap


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Some progress! I finally attained enough parts to start my 800d build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rad goodness that will be going in the beast
> 
> 
> specs:
> xeon L5520
> Corsair dominator 6gb
> gtx 560ti sli
> evga x58ftw3
> 60gb ssd
> 500gb hdd
> 
> i know the hardware isn't the latest generation, but i cannot complain since i got everything dirt cheap


Starting to look amazing! Let me know if you need any further assistance or if you have any questions or concerns about those cards.


----------



## lvlrdka22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lvlrdka22*
> 
> Well, no pictures for now, but I managed to squeeze in a custom loop into my Lian Li PC-Q25B
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , with a 140mm radiator in the front and a Yate Loon that has its shroud mostly removed as pull (push won't work, had to almost destroy the entire fan to figure that out).
> Currently running a used 2500K and 4 WD Reds (HDD cage still intact).
> I ended up having to borrow the pumps from my other build since the pump I bought has aluminum casing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so the graphics card slot is currently blocked. Ah well, once I find the need to get one (when I sell off my other build's main parts), the space will probably be free, since the next upgrade I'm thinking of is switching from the CPU-360 and the dual pump combination to the Apogee Drive.
> The only mod I did was drill a fillport in the front.
> 
> I'm also thinking that I can probably make a 120mm radiator fit in the top without modding the case, provided I mod the fan a bit, which should be suffiicient for a CPU+GPU loop.






I did some measurements. There's only 40mm of clearance from the PSU to the top of the case.
The PSU will always block one of the radiator ports, unfortunately, unless the ports are on the sides of the radiator, or extremely close to the center.
I can't find a thin 120mm radiator (25-30mm only) that has ports on the top







, and the only one that I know of that has holes extremely close to the center is the Swiftech one with built-in reservoir, but that's a little too long.
Ah well, I made the case feet a little longer, so now I can fit another thin 140mm radiator on the bottom without blocking the GPU slot if I mount the fan as push externally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Some progress! I finally attained enough parts to start my 800d build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs:
> xeon L5520
> Corsair dominator 6gb
> gtx 560ti sli
> evga x58ftw3
> 60gb ssd
> 500gb hdd
> 
> i know the hardware isn't the latest generation, but i cannot complain since i got everything dirt cheap


I don't know what blocks you're using, but some of them have distinct inlets and outlets. Reversing them can cause division by zero and the universe imploding







.


----------



## MillerModPCs

My "900D Elite"


----------



## sate200




----------



## bmartb18b1

My Thermaltake V3 case, with window mod and XSPC Raystorm kit (cathode is so dim I had to put right under tube to get it to glow)


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerModPCs*
> 
> My "900D Elite"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome build mate, im actually looking to do something similiar.

Are they gelid uv wings on the 480?
If so could you grab a picture of them lit up when it is dark and you have the side panel on?
Very interested to see how it looks through the mesh.

Cheers


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I need some help guys and girls.
> 
> Can someone please measure for me, your GTX Titan/780 EK backplate? I am wanting to fabricate my own, but need some measurements first before I can start cutting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


Metallic, I'll be able to get you some measurements tomorrow. Also, more pics with updates! I have a Z77 Mpower ($100 on eBay







) coming in tomorrow, some clips for a FrozenQ blue spiral res (thanks wermad!) and more 90 degree fittings.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> Metallic, I'll be able to get you some measurements tomorrow. Also, more pics with updates! I have a Z77 Mpower ($100 on eBay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) coming in tomorrow, some clips for a FrozenQ blue spiral res (thanks wermad!) and more 90 degree fittings.


Fantastic!! If you don't mind, can you also give screw hole locations?

MetallicAcid


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a beauty!


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Galaxy should start manufacturing matching motherboards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Would be so awesome for white builds.
Click to expand...

Or you could just be insane and and/or extremely brave...


Spoiler: Warning: insanity!


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Or you could just be insane and and/or extremely brave...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: insanity!


Insulation spray? Or just normal spray, crazy. Haha.


----------



## joejoe69

Plasti-dipped mobo?


----------



## 209ham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerModPCs*
> 
> My "900D Elite"


Loving the front you put on the DVD. Might have to do that myself


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Well, here's a rookie attempt at water cooling on first ever computer build.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Well, here's a rookie attempt at water cooling on first ever computer build.


...and thats a really nice first attempt.









what do you think of your AX 860i so far?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> ...and thats a really nice first attempt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you think of your AX 860i so far?


Thank you.. The 860i is doing its job. No problems so far. I leave my computr on 24-7 and no issues


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*


What brand of LED lights are you using in there? Love it!!


----------



## p5ych00n5

3rd WC Rig so far, I have the bug so bad


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Well, here's a rookie attempt at water cooling on first ever computer build.


Looks good!


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 3rd WC Rig so far, I have the bug so bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. Nice to see someone paying attention to lighting detail as much as "How big a rad can I cram in here".
I'm all about keeping it clean and keeping the tubing unobtrusive in my builds, but this works.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Well, here's a rookie attempt at water cooling on first ever computer build.


Well done WiLD FyeR. Nice attention to lighting detail and short, straight tubing runs. As a rookie attempt, you're well on your way to making the rest of us jealous of future builds!


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Thanks guys.. When I first started, it was air cooled, not sure if the H100i counts. Didn't think I would be diving in the world of water. All I can say is, it's a satisfying feeling. Building a computer from scratch to water cooling, what an accomplishment. Thanks to OCN for advise and suggestions.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks guys.. When I first started, it was air cooled, not sure if the H100i counts. Didn't think I would be diving in the world of water. All I can say is, it's a satisfying feeling. Building a computer from scratch to water cooling, what an accomplishment. Thanks to OCN for advise and suggestions.


Sounds like another one has gotten the bug, lol


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks guys.. When I first started, it was air cooled, not sure if the H100i counts. Didn't think I would be diving in the world of water. All I can say is, it's a satisfying feeling. Building a computer from scratch to water cooling, what an accomplishment. Thanks to OCN for advise and suggestions.


It sure is a great feeling. It will also wow your friends and family to the point where they will ask you to build computers for them and bother you with every little computer problem they run into.


----------



## its-butters

Hey guys, i just recently put together my rig(my first i might add). I am enjoying every step of the way. Installed my custom water loop yesterday just waiting on the coolant to arrive! always waiting on the delivery man! ( i plan on sleeving all the loose cables in black soon so u wont really see them and the pump mod is on the way







)
water cooling parts are as follows:

EK supremecy CPU block
EK fc-680 plexi full VGA blocks
XSPC clear uv tubing 3/8 5/8
swifteck MCP655 pump
alphacool nexxos monsta dual 120 rad
scyth gentle typhoons in push pull
cold cathodes and flex uv strips
lamptron 30W 4 channel controller
fusion blue 240 res








I would love any tips or advice you guys have







i could stay here looking at these awesome rigs forever..
any questions about build just check my sig


----------



## tecuarenta

I just wanted to show off a little









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKnj7i42XNE&list=HL1374261346&feature=mh_lolz


----------



## tecuarenta

Double post


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *its-butters*
> 
> Hey guys, i just recently put together my rig(my first i might add). I am enjoying every step of the way. Installed my custom water loop yesterday just waiting on the coolant to arrive! always waiting on the delivery man! ( i plan on sleeving all the loose cables in black soon so u wont really see them and the pump mod is on the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> water cooling parts are as follows:
> 
> EK supremecy CPU block
> EK fc-680 plexi full VGA blocks
> XSPC clear uv tubing 3/8 5/8
> swifteck MCP655 pump
> alphacool nexxos monsta dual 120 rad
> scyth gentle typhoons in push pull
> cold cathodes and flex uv strips
> lamptron 30W 4 channel controller
> fusion blue 240 res
> 
> I would love any tips or advice you guys have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i could stay here looking at these awesome rigs forever..
> any questions about build just check my sig


You cool all those with a single 240 Monta rad?
Need more rads, this is overkill.net


----------



## its-butters

lol for now, construction of the external rad box is currently under way, with a quad and tripple black ice rads, both push pull, dont plan on stress testing till its hooked up


----------



## Michalius

Here's my buddy's build after filled with Aurora.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YECQjX4YKM

So pretty


----------



## wermad

Swallowed my pride and picked up another NZXT controller







. This one is the Mix *2*. i had a newegg g/c and this was only good controller they offered so I got it. I know newegg would take it back if it was bad. The pcb is a lot more busy and the caps are much beefier and they have some type of insulation (looks like heatshrink). Bummer this one is downgraded from the 50w per channel on the 1.0, but those were pulled most likely (as it happened to me) there was a design flaw. I love the option to change the led color and my pump finally likes a controller and I can drop its voltage again (







).


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Here's my buddy's build after filled with Aurora.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YECQjX4YKM
> 
> So pretty


Ermmmm you couldn't really see it









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Michalius

Gotta wait for the light pulse.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Gotta wait for the light pulse.


and you still cant see it very well.


----------



## its-butters

love the res wermad







i just finished my cable management so that mass of cables made me shudder haha


----------



## Dragoon

Got a doubt here regarding rads...

Will a 240 rad be enough for SLI 670s? Considering an EK CoolStream XT 240 or an Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm, also between those two, which would be better?

I also take that a single Phobya Xtreme 200 is enough to keep a 3570k cool or do I need something bigger?


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Got a doubt here regarding rads...
> 
> Will a 240 rad be enough for SLI 670s? Considering an EK CoolStream XT 240 or an Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm, also between those two, which would be better?
> 
> I also take that a single Phobya Xtreme 200 is enough to keep a 3570k cool or do I need something bigger?


What fans do you want to use? rpms?
My pair of 670s oced can pull out around 550W.
A XT45 360 with push fans @ 1500rpm disipates 200W. See martinsliquidlab testing


----------



## PinzaC55

Can't speak for the GPU's but I have a Phobya Xtreme 200 with P/P fans and I think it could cool my whole rig by itself.


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> What fans do you want to use? rpms?
> My pair of 670s oced can pull out around 550W.


I still haven't decided on the fans, but most likely either SP120 Performance (2350RPM), or the SP120s that come with the H100i (2700RPM). Of course running at those speeds they get quite noisy.

EDIT: I also have a pair of Delta FFB1212EH fans, 4000RPM 11mmH2O static pressure







.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> I still haven't decided on the fans, but most likely either SP120 Performance (2350RPM), or the SP120s that come with the H100i (2700RPM). Of course running at those speeds they get quite noisy.
> 
> EDIT: I also have a pair of Delta FFB1212EH fans, 4000RPM 11mmH2O static pressure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I had SP120s performance in push/pull on my 240 UT60, I ended up selling them for being too noisy for me. Cooling wise, great performance.


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> I had SP120s performance in push/pull on my 240 UT60, I ended up selling them for being too noisy for me. Cooling wise, great performance.


Yeah, they move quite a bit of air. But at full speed they are noisy. Any other fans you'd recommend? I was going to try to sell these Delta fans, but I'm yet to see them in action, I wonder how loud they are at different voltages... 11mmH2O is ridiculously good... Maybe I'll hold on to them if they prove to be quiet enough (which I doubt lol)

Also, I'd most likely only do pull (exhaust) or push (intake), as the 600T doesn't have enough space for a rad so thick and fans to do push/pull or just push (exhaust).


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Staring in the outlet and inlet holes it looks like the inlet's way too short and the outlet indeed has some threading anomalies going on. Thanks guys. RMA here we come...


instead of wasting all of that time getting a new top,

id take the top down to your local machine shop and ask them to touch up those threads for you....

i doubt they'd charge more than $5


----------



## Cr4zy

He's my updated build in my trusty TJ07 which has seen a lot of changes.
Specs;
Intel 4770k
Gigabyte Z87X-OC
EVGA GTX 680
16GB Vengeance Pro
Asus Xonar D2X
Seasonic 760W

Cooled with;
EK Supreme HF
EK-FC680 GTX
Bitspower Z-Multi
Swiftech MCP35X
BlackIce SR1 480 w/ 4 GT AP15s
MasterKleer UV-Reactive Orange 7/16
Bitspower ShinySilver fittings/stubby 1/2" barbs


----------



## MillerModPCs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Yeah, they move quite a bit of air. But at full speed they are noisy. Any other fans you'd recommend? I was going to try to sell these Delta fans, but I'm yet to see them in action, I wonder how loud they are at different voltages... 11mmH2O is ridiculously good... Maybe I'll hold on to them if they prove to be quiet enough (which I doubt lol)
> 
> Also, I'd most likely only do pull (exhaust) or push (intake), as the 600T doesn't have enough space for a rad so thick and fans to do push/pull or just push (exhaust).


Gelid Gamer Wing fans. They are my favorite fans and are definitely underrated. They spin at 1500RPM and move a little more air then the SP120s and are way quieter as well. They have great static pressure and undervolt soooo well. The fan blade also pops right off for easy cleaning. They also have the LED version which spins at 1800RPM and at that speed they move over 70CFM! Did I mention they are also the sexiest looking fans? lol


----------



## stickg1

I want to water cool my GTX 760, I was going to switch it out with a reference 770 to get a full coverage block. But I rather not spend that much money, this 760 is plenty for my gaming habits and I fold on it 24/7 so I want it cool. It's the EVGA SC ACX which is a custom PCB.

So my question is, which Uni GPU Block should I get, and what should I get for ramsinks and VRM heatsinks? I thank you in advance for your suggestions especially if you're kind enough to provide links. I am in the US.


----------



## dr/owned

SetTitleMatchMode 1
SetTitleMatchMode Fast


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerModPCs*
> 
> Gelid Gamer Wing fans. They are my favorite fans and are definitely underrated. They spin at 1500RPM and move a little more air then the SP120s and are way quieter as well. They have great static pressure and undervolt soooo well. The fan blade also pops right off for easy cleaning. They also have the LED version which spins at 1800RPM and at that speed they move over 70CFM! Did I mention they are also the sexiest looking fans? lol


lol

Gamer wing fans do look really good! Unfortunately, they are green...







I want to make my build red and white and black. I'm seriously considering doing a dual loop... That's why I asked if a 240 rad was gonna be enough for two 670s.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> So question for the hive mind:
> 
> Anyone know of a case off hand that supports dual PSU's, *external watercooling ports* (eliminates MountainMods I think), and has more than 8 expansion slots?
> 
> I couldn't find any offhand, and I don't want to buy some giant case that's meant to hold 50 rads because all my cooling is external. Any places make full custom cases (not semi-custom "you can pick the color" stuff)?
> 
> Just putting a feeler out since my next build is probably going to be "The Future Proofer"...dual 8 core, quad SLI, raid card, network card, etc and it's going to need 2 psu's for sure.


Every real man should have a drill and a stepped bit.









But seriously a stepped bit is one of the best purchases a modder can make. Cut yourself two perfect sized holes on any case. Then throw in some bulkhead fittings.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-5-6.jpg.html


----------



## MillerModPCs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> lol
> 
> Gamer wing fans do look really good! Unfortunately, they are green...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make my build red and white and black. I'm seriously considering doing a dual loop... That's why I asked if a 240 rad was gonna be enough for two 670s.


Yeah green and blue. I have two 670s also and before I got my 900D I used just a 360mm and a 120mm rad and had great temps and I also had the CPU and a MOSFET block in the loop as well.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> I just wanted to show off a little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKnj7i42XNE&list=HL1374261346&feature=mh_lolz


Very Nice. Love the music too.


----------



## dr/owned

SetTitleMatchMode 1
SetTitleMatchMode Fast


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> So question for the hive mind:
> 
> Anyone know of a case off hand that supports dual PSU's, external watercooling ports (eliminates MountainMods I think), and has more than 8 expansion slots?
> 
> I couldn't find any offhand, and I don't want to buy some giant case that's meant to hold 50 rads because all my cooling is external. Any places make full custom cases (not semi-custom "you can pick the color" stuff)?
> 
> Just putting a feeler out since my next build is probably going to be "The Future Proofer"...dual 8 core, quad SLI, raid card, network card, etc and it's going to need 2 psu's for sure.


I would take a look at Caselabs cases, to me they are the true "future proofer" cases.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I want to water cool my GTX 760, I was going to switch it out with a reference 770 to get a full coverage block. But I rather not spend that much money, this 760 is plenty for my gaming habits and I fold on it 24/7 so I want it cool. It's the EVGA SC ACX which is a custom PCB.
> 
> So my question is, which Uni GPU Block should I get, and what should I get for ramsinks and VRM heatsinks? I thank you in advance for your suggestions especially if you're kind enough to provide links. I am in the US.


Given the lack of full coverage block you can use any of the GPU blocks out there to cool your GPU, I've been happy with the EKWB blocks so far (here is their cooling configuration link) http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

Another that I've seen use is the one by siwftech http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx

For the ram and the vr's you can use good old copper heat skins.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> So question for the hive mind:
> 
> Anyone know of a case off hand that supports dual PSU's, external watercooling ports (eliminates MountainMods I think), and has more than 8 expansion slots?
> 
> I couldn't find any offhand, and I don't want to buy some giant case that's meant to hold 50 rads because all my cooling is external. Any places make full custom cases (not semi-custom "you can pick the color" stuff)?
> 
> Just putting a feeler out since my next build is probably going to be "The Future Proofer"...dual 8 core, quad SLI, raid card, network card, etc and it's going to need 2 psu's for sure.


Well the 900D springs to mind since it has support for dual PSUs. A second PSU would use up an extra 240mm worth of rad space in the bottom of the case but if your cooling is external then it isn't a problem. It also does have 10 expansion slots and can hold 12 hard drives even with dual PSU installed. Unlike the 800D it does NOT have holes in the back for external water cooling but that could be very easily modded.


----------



## lvlrdka22

found a radiator that will work on the top of my case with no ports blocked!
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/120mm-water-cooling-radiator-copper-radiator-intensive-fins/907279_660156900.html

Looks like I'll be able to cram 2x 140mm and 1x 120mm single radiators into this ITX case, along with a semi-short GPU, and maybe a couple more WD Reds.


----------



## sakmeo95

800D never die.


----------



## Sunreeper

HOLY CRAP!!! Sakmeo you have done two things that I've always wanted to do but never knew how! I would really appreciate it if you gave me instructions on how you did such an amazing job.

1) how in the world did you rotate the motherboard and the motherboard tray so cleanly? I've been wanting to do that with my case so badly to show off a GPU block if I get one

2) How did you make that bottom water channel thing that has the coolant go through and attach to another block? I've had the exact same idea after I've seen people use an acrylic lightbox but I thought it was impossible I've obviously been proved wrong.

Excellent work man it looks so beautiful and unique just simply stunning. You've implemented ideas only I've dreamed about just looks awesome


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

That floor channel is sickening!


----------



## dr/owned

Removed


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Very nice. Nice to see someone paying attention to lighting detail as much as "How big a rad can I cram in here".
> I'm all about keeping it clean and keeping the tubing unobtrusive in my builds, but this works.


Cheers mate, I tried to make it as efficient as possible without miles and miles of tubing, still finetuning the build overall and it's always never finished


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cr4zy*
> 
> He's my updated build in my trusty TJ07 which has seen a lot of changes.
> Specs;
> Intel 4770k
> Gigabyte Z87X-OC
> EVGA GTX 680
> 16GB Vengeance Pro
> Asus Xonar D2X
> Seasonic 760W
> 
> Cooled with;
> EK Supreme HF
> EK-FC680 GTX
> Bitspower Z-Multi
> Swiftech MCP35X
> BlackIce SR1 480 w/ 4 GT AP15s
> MasterKleer UV-Reactive Orange 7/16
> Bitspower ShinySilver fittings/stubby 1/2" barbs


I think... *sniff* I think I'm in love.


----------



## sakmeo95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!! Sakmeo you have done two things that I've always wanted to do but never knew how! I would really appreciate it if you gave me instructions on how you did such an amazing job.
> 
> 1) how in the world did you rotate the motherboard and the motherboard tray so cleanly? I've been wanting to do that with my case so badly to show off a GPU block if I get one
> 
> 2) How did you make that bottom water channel thing that has the coolant go through and attach to another block? I've had the exact same idea after I've seen people use an acrylic lightbox but I thought it was impossible I've obviously been proved wrong.
> 
> Excellent work man it looks so beautiful and unique just simply stunning. You've implemented ideas only I've dreamed about just looks awesome


Watch bilud log. Doubt at any stage, please ask again.
Thai anguage only.








Click here.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cr4zy*
> 
> He's my updated build in my trusty TJ07 which has seen a lot of changes.
> Specs;
> Intel 4770k
> Gigabyte Z87X-OC
> EVGA GTX 680
> 16GB Vengeance Pro
> Asus Xonar D2X
> Seasonic 760W
> 
> Cooled with;
> EK Supreme HF
> EK-FC680 GTX
> Bitspower Z-Multi
> Swiftech MCP35X
> BlackIce SR1 480 w/ 4 GT AP15s
> MasterKleer UV-Reactive Orange 7/16
> Bitspower ShinySilver fittings/stubby 1/2" barbs
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I fell in love with the led you're using, makes the block look so much nicer, I have the same CPU block. May I ask what size led I need to use for our block? I'd like getting one.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Well the 900D springs to mind since it has support for dual PSUs. A second PSU would use up an extra 240mm worth of rad space in the bottom of the case but if your cooling is external then it isn't a problem. It also does have 10 expansion slots and can hold 12 hard drives even with dual PSU installed. Unlike the 800D it does NOT have holes in the back for external water cooling but that could be very easily modded.


I have the 900D and when I bought it it was the only case I found that had Dual PSU support. I love it, I have a 480 rad on the top and Im looking to add a second 480 to the bottom.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Cheers mate, I tried to make it as efficient as possible without miles and miles of tubing, still finetuning the build overall and it's always never finished


And speaking of never finished...LOL Here's some pics of test fitting the bridge and one card waterblocked.


Just wanted to make sure I had "eyed up" the placement correctly before doing final tubing cuts and finishing off the backplates.
Warming up the Drememl as we speak....time to give my roommates cat a real treat as I make the cuts in the backplate for the vents


----------



## Cr4zy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I fell in love with the led you're using, makes the block look so much nicer, I have the same CPU block. May I ask what size led I need to use for our block? I'd like getting one.


two holes for 3mm LEDs


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cr4zy*
> 
> two holes for 3mm LEDs


Ah so I can put two leds on it? Never really bothered inspecting the block, thanks.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Ah so I can put two leds on it? Never really bothered inspecting the block, thanks.


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/kuoc.jpg/

Yes, i use them in my block, excuse the microcracks, i really need to get around to fitting my replacement top.


----------



## kcuestag

Looks good, I'll have to get a pair of 3mm leds then!


----------



## stickg1

Do the LEDs use a 2 pin, 3 pin, or 4 pin (molex)? If it's two pin like the front panel LEDs where do you plug them in at?


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Do the LEDs use a 2 pin, 3 pin, or 4 pin (molex)? If it's two pin like the front panel LEDs where do you plug them in at?


LEDs are 2 pin, unless you get an RGB LED. It's just + and ground..


----------



## Shogon

Finished some stuff before the final card+block get here on Tuesday. Not the best at bends but I've managed the 1 on the ram finally







only took many tries and almost a meter lol..


----------



## Jetskyer

Lots of MIPS goodness, looking good!
Are you still going to change the VRM to MB run to copper? or take a bit longer run of acrylic to get rid of that adapter. Looks a bit off if you ask me. Congrats on the ram-ram run, I can imagine that run being a pain to get exactly right.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> 800D never die.


this needs to have a build log, this needs to be elaborated on and show more... WHAT ON EARTH IS THIS!!! I NEED MORE!!


----------



## ajs89

hi... i hv just finished changing tubes from 3/4 to 5/8 black matte tube








off

on


----------



## nismoskyline

Almost finished












Special thanks to BramSLI1 for the graphics cards








any feedback is appreciated


----------



## Justinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Almost finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Special thanks to BramSLI1 for the graphics cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any feedback is appreciated


Looks great to me, simple and elegant as well as eye-catching, well done!


----------



## Justinator

Does anyone know a method for estimating the water temp in a loop from the temps of the components?

I only just saw that my pump/res has a max water temp of 50c, and apparently the acrylic starts to split at 60c, hence the need to estimate the water temperature. I don't want to replace the res/pump combo unnecessarily because I don't want to take my loop apart if I can avoid it, so installing a water temp sensor would defeat the purpose.

My loop runs from the XSPC X20 750 to an EK XTX 360, to an i7-3770K fitted with EK Supremacy Acetal and Nickel block, to EK XTX 240, to EK Dual Parallel 3-slot SLI bridge servicing 2 GTX 680s via 2 EK FC680 blocks, back to pump/res. Tubing is XSPC, fittings are EK.

Apologies if this question has been answered somewhere else, I searched but came up empty.


----------



## Jetskyer

You could strap a temp sensor to the wall of the tubing, I've seen it done here and it should be accurate within 4 to 5 degrees.


----------



## Justinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> You could strap a temp sensor to the wall of the tubing, I've seen it done here and it should be accurate within 4 to 5 degrees.


Cheers, will do, you rock! +rep


----------



## Goofy Flow

This is my system just finished.









Specs:
Intel Core i7 3770k delidded
Asus Maximus V Formula
Corsair Dominator Platinum 2x4GB
EVGA GTX 670 SLI
Corsair AX850
Corsair 600T

Cooled:
EK Supremacy Nickel
EK Mosfet and Chipset Liquid Cooling
EK GeForce GTX 670 Nickel CSQ (SLI)
EK GeForce GTX 670 Backplate (SLI)
Kit Pump / Res Bitspower
2 radiators (front 240mm and thickness of 80 mm, higher by 360mm and 30mm thick)
Bitspower Fittings / Monsoon
Tubes Masterkleer 13/10
Mayhems Pastel red


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justinator*
> 
> Cheers, will do, you rock! +rep


No problem mate!
If your water temp goes above 40 degrees you're probably having a problem with your rad anyways (or really high ambient temps)


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justinator*
> 
> Looks great to me, simple and elegant as well as eye-catching, well done!


Thanks!


----------



## snef

My little S3 is done


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> My little S3 is done
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Easily my favorite build I've seen on here in the last month or so.

Stellar work.


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> What brand of LED lights are you using in there? Love it!!


. Hi man, I'm use Akasa vegas 60cm strip- white!!


----------



## cyphon

Finally got the build done. There are a couple tweaks left, but those will wait for some time. I am looking for naming suggestions as I have not named it yet....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> My little S3 is done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Because of you i just spent $400 on an S3 with a pedestal.

Damn it!


----------



## socketus

heh-heh .... B Neg got bit !! enjoY


----------



## snef

Thanks

@B-Neg
sorry









you will like it for sure
THATS the m-itx case for Builder/Modder

im waiting for the S5 now


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm usually not a fan of black and red but your balance of red, white and black is perfect. I love it! Great job!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful little build there snef. Awesome case and I love your original color scheme and nice little finishing touches like the custom stickers on the PSU and SSD.


----------



## IronDoq

@MettalicAcid, I'll be able to get your measurements in a bit. Refer to this for screw locations.


----------



## dr/owned

Removed


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> My little S3 is done


One of my favorite mini build ever, love the unique color theme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Finally got the build done. There are a couple tweaks left, but those will wait for some time. I am looking for naming suggestions as I have not named it yet....


The build brings back memory to my old rig, very similar
Job well done
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajs89*
> 
> hi... i hv just finished changing tubes from 3/4 to 5/8 black matte tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> off
> 
> on


Very sleek







the build just get better and better


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> This is my system just finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Intel Core i7 3770k delidded
> Asus Maximus V Formula
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 2x4GB
> EVGA GTX 670 SLI
> Corsair AX850
> Corsair 600T
> 
> Cooled:
> EK Supremacy Nickel
> EK Mosfet and Chipset Liquid Cooling
> EK GeForce GTX 670 Nickel CSQ (SLI)
> EK GeForce GTX 670 Backplate (SLI)
> Kit Pump / Res Bitspower
> 2 radiators (front 240mm and thickness of 80 mm, higher by 360mm and 30mm thick)
> Bitspower Fittings / Monsoon
> Tubes Masterkleer 13/10
> Mayhems Pastel red






Your RAM is in single channel. You might want to fix that.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> This is my system just finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Intel Core i7 3770k delidded
> Asus Maximus V Formula
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 2x4GB
> EVGA GTX 670 SLI
> Corsair AX850
> Corsair 600T
> 
> Cooled:
> EK Supremacy Nickel
> EK Mosfet and Chipset Liquid Cooling
> EK GeForce GTX 670 Nickel CSQ (SLI)
> EK GeForce GTX 670 Backplate (SLI)
> Kit Pump / Res Bitspower
> 2 radiators (front 240mm and thickness of 80 mm, higher by 360mm and 30mm thick)
> Bitspower Fittings / Monsoon
> Tubes Masterkleer 13/10
> Mayhems Pastel red
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a beautiful little 600T build you got there! Love the color scheme and the 600T is still one of my all time favorite cases (I was too chicken***** to do water cooling in mine so I bought my TJ11). I'd love to see your exact build done with acrylic tubing but as is its still amazing!


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Lots of MIPS goodness, looking good!
> Are you still going to change the VRM to MB run to copper? or take a bit longer run of acrylic to get rid of that adapter. Looks a bit off if you ask me. Congrats on the ram-ram run, I can imagine that run being a pain to get exactly right.


Unfortunately I don't have a long enough piece of the crystal link from bitspower on hand to do that. It's off true, but I'm not too partial on the looks, then again it might change though(when laziness doesn't occur







). I bought a different bender so I hope it will make bending easier, then I can do more copper runs. Looking forward to just filling it up and seeing the black pastel in action(previously had yellow and loved the look!). Feels like its been a while since I've gamed, in reality it's only been a week or so.

Had to show my support for MIPS







. I hope someone will bring them back because these blocks are well made and beautiful. I would of bought the p9x79 deluxe SB, but I'm not 100% sure it works on the regular p9x79 from Asus. Either way thank you!

So many awesome builds from you guys, more like works of art!


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes they should lowfat.
> 
> Go vote if you want to see a block for it


Would the block be white?


----------



## mattcube64

Hi all - would love a little insight - I'm pretty amateur at this stuff.

Been tinkering for about 8hrs now, and I'm exhausted. Gonna run my system overnight and hope for a stable rig in the morning; but I'd love a little input.

On a Asus Rampage IV Formula, and a full custom waterloop (360mm & 240mm), and an hour of testing in Prime and Kombuster, 100% usage on both - I'm looking at:

i7 3820 @ 4.4Ghz (EK Supremacy) - 55-62c (was 44c under load at stock)

EVGA Titan @ 1215Mhz (EK Titan Block) 34-37c (was 32c under load at stock)

Is this decent? It's not the crazy overclock I was hoping for - honestly, I feel like I could hit something close on air. Granted, this is much cooler (especially the GPU), but honestly 60c on the CPU isn't what I'd necessarily call "cold."

And my RAM - I'll be honest, a bit confused. It's 2133 Corsair Vengeance - but I was getting stability issues out the wazoo until I selected 1600mhz in my BIOS. Thoughts?

Thanks!


----------



## sakmeo95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> this needs to have a build log, this needs to be elaborated on and show more... WHAT ON EARTH IS THIS!!! I NEED MORE!!


build log







Thai Language only


----------



## kingchris

question guys, been reading up and i cant find the answer, can i mount a pmp-500 vertical.

as pictured



if i can it would make life easy with the new build.
cheers.


----------



## superericla

You can mount the pump in any orientation, and that orientation would actually help prevent air from being trapped inside the pump.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> You can mount the pump in any orientation, and that orientation would actually help prevent air from being trapped inside the pump.


That's not entirely true. Pumps may not be oriented upside down (so with the inlet coming in from under the pump)
But the way kingcris wants to mount his pump indeed is the most ideal orientation.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> @MettalicAcid, I'll be able to get your measurements in a bit. Refer to this for screw locations.


Thanks once again for the help Iron







Much appreciated!!

MetallicAcid


----------



## kingchris

thanks for the responce guys,


----------



## john7up

Here's my CPU LOOP for the moment, need another 360mm rad on top and moving the 240 one on bottom.
EK SUPREME HF Copper-Acetal
Alphacool NexXxos XT 45mm Full Copper
Laing DDC +1T
AquaComputer Aquatube Full Copper


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john7up*
> 
> Here's my CPU LOOP for the moment, need another 360mm rad on top and moving the 240 one on bottom.
> EK SUPREME HF Copper-Acetal
> Alphacool NexXxos XT 45mm Full Copper
> Laing DDC +1T
> AquaComputer Aquatube Full Copper


Holy crap that's the most extreme rig I have ever seen! Send that bottom rad to me.


----------



## MykaAurora

Anyone noticed Primochill Primo Advance LRT is a lot stiffer compared to Primo Pro LRT?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> question guys, been reading up and i cant find the answer, can i mount a pmp-500 vertical.
> 
> as pictured
> 
> 
> 
> if i can it would make life easy with the new build.
> cheers.


Don't know if they are new or not, but them PMP-500 pumps are pretty noisy. No matter how they are mounted.

I had to put mine in a pump box to make it bearable.


----------



## MykaAurora

This is what that tube caused me. LOL. I'm such a dip**** in trying to achive aesthetic.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> My little S3 is done
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah snef... that S3 has "so much winning" that for a minute I thought Charlie Sheen had an account on OCN.







Really like the way it turned out - and some fantastic lighting in it too.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Anyone noticed Primochill Primo Advance LRT is a lot stiffer compared to Primo Pro LRT?


That's because it doesn't have plasticizer in it... it's super stiff but at least it doesn't clog your blocks with cottage cheese the way the Pro does.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Ah snef... that S3 has "so much winning" that for a minute I thought Charlie Sheen had an account on OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really like the way it turned out - and some fantastic lighting in it too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's because it doesn't have plasticizer in it... it's super stiff but at least it doesn't clog your blocks with cottage cheese the way the Pro does.


Ahah! That's why I almost gave up on assembling my loop. It's super hard to squish into those tight places. I might have to redo with rigid tube in some tight areas.. Damn it.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Don't know if they are new or not, but them PMP-500 pumps are pretty noisy. No matter how they are mounted.
> 
> I had to put mine in a pump box to make it bearable.


yer i know, i had 2 in the dual and it was a bit OTT, with the controller its not too bad.

with my new build space is a little tight, and this will fit, it may get some sound proofing on the side panel


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Ahah! That's why I almost gave up on assembling my loop. It's super hard to squish into those tight places. I might have to redo with rigid tube in some tight areas.. Damn it.


It's actually pretty easy to work with if you know the secret... get a pyrex measuring cup... and microwave some water to very hot (but not boiling)... take it with you to your build... dip the ends of the tube you're about to place into the water for about 10 seconds... and voila... it slides right on without any fuss whatsoever.







I used it in my build and had some very short runs that still worked great doing it that way.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It's actually pretty easy to work with if you know the secret... get a pyrex measuring cup... and microwave some water to very hot (but not boiling)... take it with you to your build... dip the ends of the tube you're about to place into the water for about 10 seconds... and voila... it slides right on without any fuss whatsoever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used it in my build and had some very short runs that still worked great doing it that way.


I tried doing that with my build but the hot water didn't seem to help much..









I'm seriously contemplating on getting other tubing next time.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I tried doing that with my build but the hot water didn't seem to help much..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seriously contemplating on getting other tubing next time.


Well, I figured that's just the tradeoff you have - the XSPC tubing I had before was super soft and pliable (i.e. had plasticizer) and was good - as in it didn't leech plasticizer all over the place - but it also didn't feel as 'snug' on the fittings. With this stuff I'm sure I didn't even need to use the compression sleeves... it was so tight on the barb inside it probably would have held... and on the barbs where I used them I didn't have to worry about adding rings or ties to keep them in place despite not using slightly larger barbs than the tubing ID as you normally would.









Definitely was more work to put on... but I'm not worried about it coming off or leeching plasticizer - to me the peace of mind was worth the extra 20 minutes or so it took to plumb my system. (And I'm running 3/8IDx5/8OD so it's even stiffer than the 1/16" sidewall stuff).


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Well, I figured that's just the tradeoff you have - the XSPC tubing I had before was super soft and pliable (i.e. had plasticizer) and was good - as in it didn't leech plasticizer all over the place - but it also didn't feel as 'snug' on the fittings. With this stuff I'm sure I didn't even need to use the compression sleeves... it was so tight on the barb inside it probably would have held... and on the barbs where I used them I didn't have to worry about adding rings or ties to keep them in place despite not using slightly larger barbs than the tubing ID as you normally would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely was more work to put on... but I'm not worried about it coming off or leeching plasticizer - to me the peace of mind was worth the extra 20 minutes or so it took to plumb my system. (And I'm running 3/8IDx5/8OD so it's even stiffer than the 1/16" sidewall stuff).


It took me hours to get the tubes in. Maybe I did something wrong..


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> It took me hours to get the tubes in. Maybe I did something wrong..


Oh WOW!







Either something was really wrong or your tubing was much worse than mine! Basically once I had the ends heated I just had to push them on one side of the fitting and then kind of rock them back the other way while putting even pressure on the side that was over the fitting lip already (to make sure it didn't pop back off). I had to do that a couple of times to get the tubing all the way down to the base of the fittings but I'd be really surprised if it took me more than 4-5 minutes per section of working it back and forth. On the shorter pieces I kind of had to do a 'milking' action to stretch it over the second fitting - but that didn't take very long either.

I wonder if your tubing wasn't made quite right or something... sounds like the ID wasn't accurate - either that or they mismarked the package maybe.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> It took me hours to get the tubes in. Maybe I did something wrong..


Mine worst, it took the whole day to finish my rig. Plus the mind crunching to figure out the tube route.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It's actually pretty easy to work with if you know the secret... get a pyrex measuring cup... and microwave some water to very hot (but not boiling)... take it with you to your build... dip the ends of the tube you're about to place into the water for about 10 seconds... and voila... it slides right on without any fuss whatsoever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used it in my build and had some very short runs that still worked great doing it that way.


Really neat sir! I envy you for that short runs. What size of your tubing if I may ask?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Mine worst, it took the whole day to finish my rig. Plus the mind crunching figure out the tube route.


Well, if we're including loop planning (and changing my mind in the middle - then re-planning all over again) then yes, it took me two or three days to finish my loop... but it took only about an hour and a half to actually plum the loop itself (22 fittings on 11 segments IIRC) so on average I guess it took me about 8 minutes per segment or so.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Well, if we're including loop planning (and changing my mind in the middle - then re-planning all over again) then yes, it took me two or three days to finish my loop... but it took only about an hour and a half to actually plum the loop itself (22 fittings on 11 segments IIRC) so on average I guess it took me about 8 minutes per segment or so.


Wow, precise. Haha. I don't really know how many fittings I've used. How many minutes per segments. I just know, now my matrix gpu sagged, my tubing sucks, and I've got my PC run again.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Oh WOW!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either something was really wrong or your tubing was much worse than mine! Basically once I had the ends heated I just had to push them on one side of the fitting and then kind of rock them back the other way while putting even pressure on the side that was over the fitting lip already (to make sure it didn't pop back off). I had to do that a couple of times to get the tubing all the way down to the base of the fittings but I'd be really surprised if it took me more than 4-5 minutes per section of working it back and forth. On the shorter pieces I kind of had to do a 'milking' action to stretch it over the second fitting - but that didn't take very long either.
> 
> I wonder if your tubing wasn't made quite right or something... sounds like the ID wasn't accurate - either that or they mismarked the package maybe.


My tubing is 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Bloodshed Red and my fittings are EK PSC 1/2" ID compressions.

The hardest part was screwing the compression rings, not slipping the tubing on the barbs. Screwing the compression rings didn't get any easier with hot water, maybe even worse. Not only did I ruin my fingers to screw the damned things, but I'm also not sure if I did it right. The tubing on some fittings comes out with an angle, which means the tubing moved while I was screwing the rings. I've got no leaks from them, but I want to fix that. Can't decide on whether I should redo it with the same tubing or not.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> My tubing is 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Bloodshed Red and my fittings are EK PSC 1/2" ID compressions.
> 
> The hardest part was screwing the compression rings, not slipping the tubing on the barbs. Screwing the compression rings didn't get any easier with hot water, maybe even worse. Not only did I ruin my fingers to screw the damned things, but I'm also not sure if I did it right. The tubing on some fittings comes out with an angle, which means the tubing moved while I was screwing the rings. I've got no leaks from them, but I want to fix that. Can't decide on whether I should redo it with the same tubing or not.


I think the stiffness increased with the size of the tubing. I screw my hands too, hurt really bad under my nail whenever I dip my hands into water.

Btw, i'm using 1/2 3/4 too.


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone here with Watercool Heatkiller waterblocks and backplates, do you know if the 79x0 backplate comes (or needs?) any thermal pads for the back of an HD7970?

I should be recieving 2 backplates on Tuesday for my 7970's but I'm not sure if they come with thermal pads, or if they even need them.


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> I think the stiffness increased with the size of the tubing. I screw my hands too, hurt really bad under my nail whenever I dip my hands into water.
> 
> Btw, i'm using 1/2 3/4 too.


Using UV blue in the same size. Didnt realize how purple it was at first. Coming from xspc tubing this stuff was much stiffer and tougher to work with, but so far still no plasticizer. Was really happy I went with monsoon fittings. That little tool was a life saver


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Anyone here with Watercool Heatkiller waterblocks and backplates, do you know if the 79x0 backplate comes (or needs?) any thermal pads for the back of an HD7970?
> 
> I should be recieving 2 backplates on Tuesday for my 7970's but I'm not sure if they come with thermal pads, or if they even need them.


The b/plate is a floating one,no contact with the back of the card


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The b/plate is a floating one,no contact with the back of the card


Thanks, I'm going to a big lan party on Wednesday so hopefully I can install them before I get there.


----------



## TastyRabbitStew

Here's my rig: a little mad max!!!











Asus itx deluxe
i5 3570k - 4.8 GHz
8GB ddr3
HD 7870 XT
SSDs etc

1*240mm rad
1*120mm rad
lots of fans.
13mm to 3mm VRM cooling.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TastyRabbitStew*
> 
> Here's my rig: a little mad max!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus itx deluxe
> i5 3570k - 4.8 GHz
> 8GB ddr3
> HD 7870 XT
> SSDs etc
> 
> 1*240mm rad
> 1*120mm rad
> lots of fans.
> 13mm to 3mm VRM cooling.
> 
> Valley v1.0 score: 1665


Nice! How the heck you manged to get those small tubing and blocks. LOL.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Nice! How the heck you manged to get those small tubing and blocks. LOL.


Ah the MCX One. One day I shall use it (as well as a Micropumps m200s) to watercool a smartphone...

Just for the fck of it.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Ah the MCX One. One day I shall use it (as well as a Micropumps m200s) to watercool a smartphone...
> 
> Just for the fck of it.


Why the heck you want to cool smartphones. Better you use it for laptops. Small reservoir. Haha. Miniature DIY liquid cooling. I know someone already made for AW M18x. Pfft, portable device. Heh.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

This is what makes Aquacomputer so boss.



Know what it is?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Yup,you case stick the soft drink bottle of you choice on to it and it becomes a res.



How awesome is that!?!?!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

So weird... Need one for beer bottles!!!


----------



## robcowboy73

I wonder if it will fit a red bull bottle I want one.







with a drop of vodka lol


----------



## john7up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *john7up*
> 
> Here's my CPU LOOP for the moment, need another 360mm rad on top and moving the 240 one on bottom.
> EK SUPREME HF Copper-Acetal
> Alphacool NexXxos XT 45mm Full Copper
> Laing DDC +1T
> AquaComputer Aquatube Full Copper
> 
> 
> 
> Holy crap that's the most extreme rig I have ever seen! Send that bottom rad to me.
Click to expand...

Could all but sense the irony there..that was before 670 SLI and custom watercooling, with crappy H100.
How do you feel about the custom thingie?

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## Dragoon

Currently looking for decent radiator fans, and stumbled upon these peculiar ones. Has anyone had experience with or own these fans?



These fans are from BlackNoise, a.k.a. NoiseBlocker.
http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8/Noiseblocker-NB_eLoop_Series_120mm

I think they look good. But I wonder about the performance.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Currently looking for decent radiator fans, and stumbled upon these peculiar ones. Has anyone had experience with or own these fans?
> 
> 
> 
> These fans are from BlackNoise, a.k.a. NoiseBlocker.
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8/Noiseblocker-NB_eLoop_Series_120mm
> 
> I think they look good. But I wonder about the performance.


So far so good for me I like them, very silent fans.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john7up*
> 
> Could all but sense the irony there..that was before 670 SLI and custom watercooling, with crappy H100.
> How do you feel about the custom thingie?
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


No irony intended. The custom loop looks great but leaves a gaping hole at the bottom of your rig! It struck me particularly because I have a Phobya Xtreme 200 + Phobya plexi shrouds + 2 CM Megaflow 200's in my rig and it occurred to me the other night that a Phobya Xtreme 400 arranged the same way would look great, however I don't have room in my HAF-X case. I guess you plan to WC the GPU's too?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Currently looking for decent radiator fans, and stumbled upon these peculiar ones. Has anyone had experience with or own these fans?
> 
> 
> 
> These fans are from BlackNoise, a.k.a. NoiseBlocker.
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8/Noiseblocker-NB_eLoop_Series_120mm
> 
> I think they look good. But I wonder about the performance.


They are good fans but I do slightly prefer GTs. I do like how the eLoops have pwm versions though.


----------



## andom

Decided to re-do my loop. I have a lot of space, but I don't really need an extra rad and I have no need for extra storage yet. Either way, it's nice to know I can expand


----------



## holiday121

I got a question. How come I see people builds with long tubes ran but then I see clean builds like the couple above me where the wires are all short and snug? I like the short ones is it harder to do?

Looking to do a first time setup soon


----------



## Muskaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It's actually pretty easy to work with if you know the secret... get a pyrex measuring cup... and microwave some water to very hot (but not boiling)... take it with you to your build... dip the ends of the tube you're about to place into the water for about 10 seconds... and voila... it slides right on without any fuss whatsoever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used it in my build and had some very short runs that still worked great doing it that way.


I used a big pot on my stove for this. Got the water warm (about where it starts making bubbles on the side of the pot, but no hotter), and dipped my tubing in for a bit, let it warm up, and slide it over the compression fitting barbs.
It helps that I didn't use that much plastic tuning on my last build, though. Used fitting for most of the visible part.


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> So far so good for me I like them, very silent fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice setup! Is that a Monsta 480? Seems that these fans can handle rads that thick.








Thanks for the feedback.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They are good fans but I do slightly prefer GTs. I do like how the eLoops have pwm versions though.


Thanks for the feedback.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Decided to re-do my loop. I have a lot of space, but I don't really need an extra rad and I have no need for extra storage yet. Either way, it's nice to know I can expand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a ridiculously clean setup! Awesome


----------



## mav2000

And mines done....


----------



## MetallicAcid

I finally got around to filling my loop!! I am VERY happy with the results considering this is my first custom WC loop.


Unfortunately the GPU will not be put under water due to money/time restraints, but this is not an issue for me at all









MetallicAcid


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I finally got around to filling my loop!! I am VERY happy with the results considering this is my first custom WC loop.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the GPU will not be put under water due to money/time restraints, but this is not an issue for me at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


Your first loop uses acrylic tube?
seriously well done, been playing with water for a while and I still dont have the guts to bend acrylic tubes
my ocd would just be too troublesome and expensive if its not properly bend


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Ahah! That's why I almost gave up on assembling my loop. It's super hard to squish into those tight places. I might have to redo with rigid tube in some tight areas.. Damn it.


Just a lil something for you to try, warm the tubing up with a hair dryer. It becomes a little more pliable, but don't get it too soft or it'll kink or pinch closed on itself. I use a dowel rod that's just a hair smaller then Inner diameter of the hose. It helps get the curves out of shorter runs. Just remember to leave it on the dowel rod as it "cools down" so it keeps the straight formation. This should help with getting it to be more cooperative, but be careful cramming it into places that you don't pinch it off


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Your first loop uses acrylic tube?
> seriously well done, been playing with water for a while and I still dont have the guts to bend acrylic tubes
> my ocd would just be too troublesome and expensive if its not properly bend


I just jumped straight to the advanced, like in everything else I have done







But I probably wasted one meter of tubing on the most complex bend, but that was something which I had accounted for. Lucky for me, acrylic tubing that I bought here in Sweden was SO cheap, that I paid 88SEK/$12US for 4 meters. I thought it was extremely easy as well, but it just takes a little more time









MetallicAcid


----------



## john7up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> No irony intended. The custom loop looks great but leaves a gaping hole at the bottom of your rig! It struck me particularly because I have a Phobya Xtreme 200 + Phobya plexi shrouds + 2 CM Megaflow 200's in my rig and it occurred to me the other night that a Phobya Xtreme 400 arranged the same way would look great, however I don't have room in my HAF-X case. I guess you plan to WC the GPU's too?


Yes, just need to know if without serious modding I will be able to fit 360mm RAD on top and put the 45mm one on bottom, so I have enough headroom for the 450W TDP for gpus and also for CPU, so need to consider rad pricing but most importantly two very expensive gtx 670/680 Waterblocks.. but I'll need to do that because they reach above 85C..


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Currently looking for decent radiator fans, and stumbled upon these peculiar ones. Has anyone had experience with or own these fans?
> 
> 
> 
> These fans are from BlackNoise, a.k.a. NoiseBlocker.
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8/Noiseblocker-NB_eLoop_Series_120mm
> 
> I think they look good. But I wonder about the performance.


My experience:

Bought 5x B12-4's for my rig, 2 where defective and didn't start to spin. They don't undervolt very well. One is clicking @ 1000rpms very noticeably.
I have also found some weird resonances at certain rpms when decelerating .
Nevertheless, great looking fans and they move quite a lot of air at full speed.
Maybe slower ones are better. Hope it helped


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> My experience:
> 
> Bought 5x B12-4's for my rig, 2 where defective and didn't start to spin. They don't undervolt very well. One is clicking @ 1000rpms very noticeably.
> I have also found some weird resonances at certain rpms when decelerating .
> Nevertheless, great looking fans and they move quite a lot of air at full speed.
> Maybe slower ones are better. Hope it helped


Holy crap. That was some rotten luck. Thanks for the input.









Well, I am looking for fans that have a good CFM/noise ratio and can handle themselves well through a radiator. Although the SP120s move quite a bit of air and are silent when undervolted, cranked up, they are quite loud.

And of course something also as important the colors... I want to go red/white themed.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Hey guys, do you think this bend will be okay? No kinks anywhere in it.


----------



## claclaclacla

this is my liquid cooling on the Cosmos II .....


----------



## IT Diva

Hope you don't mind I post a few pics of the new "Lab Model" PWM controller that I'm building for Martin's Liquid Lab.

Thought it was the least I could do in return for all he's done for our community.

The thread for it is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1411639/precision-pwm-controller-for-martins-liquid-lab#post_20451677

Darlene

New "lab" PCB:



PCB assembled:



Stand alone controller module waiting on me to make the docking station:



Some all-important test time accumulating:


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> this is my liquid cooling on the Cosmos II .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you build yourself for that CM Cosmos II Windowed side panel?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Just a lil something for you to try, warm the tubing up with a hair dryer. It becomes a little more pliable, but don't get it too soft or it'll kink or pinch closed on itself. I use a dowel rod that's just a hair smaller then Inner diameter of the hose. It helps get the curves out of shorter runs. Just remember to leave it on the dowel rod as it "cools down" so it keeps the straight formation. This should help with getting it to be more cooperative, but be careful cramming it into places that you don't pinch it off


Thank you sir, I'll try to soften the tube first for my next rebuild. ( hot water dip, hair dryer ).

So I can bend it like acrylic tube? I hate it that the tube always curve, never straight.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> So I can bend it like acrylic tube? I hate it that the tube always curve, never straight.


You can do it similar yes.

1. Insert rope or spring on inside of tubing to prevent it from kinking. If you are using clear tubing use rope, springs will leave a marking on the inside of the tube.
2. Heat tubing w/ very hot water or heat gun/blow dryer. If using a heatgun use low temp as it will melt the tubing.
3. Hold the tubing straight and run it under cold tap water while holding the tubing in the shape you want it. Once it is cold you can remove the spring/rope.

You can get rather straight or ridiculously tight bends w/ tubing this way. Even w/ thin walled tubing.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can do it similar yes.
> 
> 1. Insert rope or spring on inside of tubing to prevent it from kinking. If you are using clear tubing use rope, springs will leave a marking on the inside of the tube.
> 2. Heat tubing w/ very hot water or heat gun/blow dryer. If using a heatgun use low temp as it will melt the tubing.
> 3. Hold the tubing straight and run it under cold tap water while holding the tubing in the shape you want it. Once it is cold you can remove the spring/rope.
> 
> You can get rather straight or ridiculously tight bends w/ tubing this way. Even w/ thin walled tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-15-3.jpg.html


Thank you sir. I've tried with hair dryer. I cant reshape it, and I know now, it's because of insufficient heat applied.

Even with 1/2 3/4 tubing?

Thank you again.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Thank you sir. I've tried with hair dryer. I cant reshape it, and I know now, it's because of insufficient heat applied.
> 
> Thank you again.


If you are using thick walled tubing hot water works a lot better. I tried using a heat gun w/ 3/8" ID 5/8" OD tubing and it didn't work near as good.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you are using thick walled tubing hot water works a lot better. I tried using a heat gun w/ 3/8" ID 5/8" OD tubing and it didn't work near as good.


Just leave in under hot water until it soft and pliable? No specific duration?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Just leave in under hot water until it soft and pliable? No specific duration?


Until it is soft and pliable. I hook mine up to the kitchen faucet and run hot water through it for maybe 30 seconds.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Just leave in under hot water until it soft and pliable? No specific duration?
> 
> 
> 
> Until it is soft and pliable. I hook mine up to the kitchen faucet and run hot water through it for maybe 30 seconds.
Click to expand...

Thank you again. I'll give it a try. It'll solve the problem.

Sent from my ONE TOUCH 4011X using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## TastyRabbitStew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is what makes Aquacomputer so boss.
> 
> 
> 
> Know what it is?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yup,you case stick the soft drink bottle of you choice on to it and it becomes a res.
> 
> 
> 
> How awesome is that!?!?!


I'm going to order one, thanks.

My mini ITX will be epic.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Can I ask for help in this thread? Want to start watercooling, but limited on options.


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> this is my liquid cooling on the Cosmos II .....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you build yourself for that CM Cosmos II Windowed side panel?.


yes, the window on the side panel of the Cosmos II was made by me...








this is the link to my work .. http://www.italiamodding.it/forum/showthread.php?4309-Modding-Cosmos-II-Realizzazione-finestra-trasparente-sul-pannello-laterale-SX


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Can I ask for help in this thread? Want to start watercooling, but limited on options.


Damn straight! Although if you have several questions, you are probably more likely to get all the input you are looking for if you create your own thread in the watercooling section


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> And speaking of never finished...LOL Here's some pics of test fitting the bridge and one card waterblocked.
> 
> 
> Just wanted to make sure I had "eyed up" the placement correctly before doing final tubing cuts and finishing off the backplates.
> Warming up the Drememl as we speak....time to give my roommates cat a real treat as I make the cuts in the backplate for the vents


That's awesome dude, makes my build look positively prehistoric







time for an upgrade methinks


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> yes, the window on the side panel of the Cosmos II was made by me...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is the link to my work .. http://www.italiamodding.it/forum/showthread.php?4309-Modding-Cosmos-II-Realizzazione-finestra-trasparente-sul-pannello-laterale-SX


Thank you for the link.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> That's awesome dude, makes my build look positively prehistoric
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> time for an upgrade methinks


Thank you. I'm afraid that by the time I finish it, it'll be time to upgrade it again LOL.
I've got the bug bad though. I'm already building project logs for the next TWO systems. I think my hobby has become an addiction. Glad I'm in good company here on OCN!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Thank you. I'm afraid that by the time I finish it, it'll be time to upgrade it again LOL.
> I've got the bug bad though. I'm already building project logs for the next TWO systems. I think my hobby has become an addiction. Glad I'm in good company here on OCN!


Hahahaha, isn't it always the way. As soon as you think the rig is finalised something new pops up and you're like "ooohhh shiny, me wants" and the cycle continues


----------



## jpongin




----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpongin*


What case is that?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> What case is that?


Think its mountain mods or something
cant remember the series though


----------



## Sunreeper

Maybe the UFO


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Think its mountain mods or something
> cant remember the series though


Thought so, maybe one of those crystal ship ones or something.


----------



## jpongin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> What case is that?


Mountain Mods U2UFO

Build log is in my sig.

Here's a better shot of the case with the old loop:


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiday121*
> 
> I got a question. How come I see people builds with long tubes ran but then I see clean builds like the couple above me where the wires are all short and snug? I like the short ones is it harder to do?
> 
> Looking to do a first time setup soon


Running long tubes usually happens when routing isn't sufficiently planned out or when aesthetics isn't important to the builder. The shorter the runs, the cleaner and more aesthetically pleasing the build is in most cases but it requires a good plan on how to route everything. This usually requires lots of thinking and visualization, not to mention experience. Best thing to do is to study as many loops as possible and learn what you can, then apply that to your particular installation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Currently looking for decent radiator fans, and stumbled upon these peculiar ones. Has anyone had experience with or own these fans?
> 
> 
> 
> These fans are from BlackNoise, a.k.a. NoiseBlocker.
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8/Noiseblocker-NB_eLoop_Series_120mm
> 
> I think they look good. But I wonder about the performance.


Noiseblocker makes some of the best fans on the market and I have heard almost nothing but good things about the eloops. I think they are fantastic looking fans that also perform very well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Hey guys, do you think this bend will be okay? No kinks anywhere in it.


Looks kinked to me but the picture isn't ideal. Do you have a different one?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Can I ask for help in this thread? Want to start watercooling, but limited on options.


This is not technically the correct thread for questions as this thread is really more for pictures of finished rigs. Specific issues are one thing but if you want advice on building a new water cooling loop you would do better by creating a new thread with your specific questions in mind.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can do it similar yes.
> 
> 1. Insert rope or spring on inside of tubing to prevent it from kinking. If you are using clear tubing use rope, springs will leave a marking on the inside of the tube.
> 2. Heat tubing w/ very hot water or heat gun/blow dryer. If using a heatgun use low temp as it will melt the tubing.
> 3. Hold the tubing straight and run it under cold tap water while holding the tubing in the shape you want it. Once it is cold you can remove the spring/rope.
> 
> You can get rather straight or ridiculously tight bends w/ tubing this way. Even w/ thin walled tubing.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-15-3.jpg.html


So you just run the hot water through the tubing first, then hold the shape you want while running cold water over? Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Botanica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> My experience:
> 
> Bought 5x B12-4's for my rig, 2 where defective and didn't start to spin. They don't undervolt very well. One is clicking @ 1000rpms very noticeably.
> I have also found some weird resonances at certain rpms when decelerating .
> Nevertheless, great looking fans and they move quite a lot of air at full speed.
> Maybe slower ones are better. Hope it helped


I think you got unlucky and got an awfully bad batch.

I have both the B12-4s and B12-Ps and they all run fine at max, undervolted, you name it. No clicks whatsoever.
Of course they're not GT's but you can't complain when you get all the accessories and such high quality made fans.


----------



## smileytown

after several years of using SFF PCs, ive decided to go back to ATX.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> My tubing is 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Bloodshed Red and my fittings are EK PSC 1/2" ID compressions.
> 
> The hardest part was screwing the compression rings, not slipping the tubing on the barbs. Screwing the compression rings didn't get any easier with hot water, maybe even worse. Not only did I ruin my fingers to screw the damned things, but I'm also not sure if I did it right. The tubing on some fittings comes out with an angle, which means the tubing moved while I was screwing the rings. I've got no leaks from them, but I want to fix that. Can't decide on whether I should redo it with the same tubing or not.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> I think the stiffness increased with the size of the tubing. I screw my hands too, hurt really bad under my nail whenever I dip my hands into water.
> Btw, i'm using 1/2 3/4 too.


I know it's been stated here in numerous sections (esp the intro to watercooling thread) but I believe it bears repeating here...

Compression sleeves (the threaded + knurled part) should not be tightened all the way down to flush against the base. The G1/4 threaded part with the O ring on the other hand _should_ be completely screwed in until the O-ring is either invisible or almost so - basically until tightening it more would cause damage to the block, res, rad, etc... to which it's attached. In general (in my experience at least) the gap between the compression sleeve and the fitting should be just slightly less than the width (sidewall thickness) of the tubing used. If you tighten it further you risk shearing the tubing itself which is _more likely_ to leak than if it's not as tight.

Because of the tightness of the threads it may take a little work to make sure it doesn't go on cross-threaded (which would make it very difficult to turn indeed and will permanently damage the fitting). In no way should the hardest part of this operation be tightening the compression sleeve... it should be pretty easy until the very last turn... and if it's really hard to turn at that point - it's because you're already done and going further is starting to shear the tubing itself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> And mines done....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats! Looks fantastic (although the pics are a little dark to truly appreciate it in all it's glory). Great job on your panel (looks much better than mine!)


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smileytown*
> 
> after several years of using SFF PCs, ive decided to go back to ATX.


welcome back








Dont you think the loop can be shorten in a way?
like the one from res to the pump?


----------



## smileytown

true.

notes for next rebuild. haha


----------



## MillerModPCs

Client Build in a Cosmos 2


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Love that berry blue pastel!


----------



## stevennoland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr/owned*
> 
> Dear jesus that 900D is massive. I presume you're going to WC those graphics cards...because otherwise WAY too many rads.


You can never have too many rads! LOL


----------



## airplaneman

New build!

Compact Splash #001 - ACE
Specs in sig


----------



## MillerModPCs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Love that berry blue pastel!


Thank you me too!


----------



## MillerModPCs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevennoland*
> 
> You can never have too many rads! LOL


^^ Couldnt agree more!. A lot of people dont realize that with more rads means more surface area for heat dissipation. Which means that you can run your fans a lot slower meaning a lot less noise or you can even run some of the rads passively depending on your setup. Basically having more rads give you way more flexibility.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevennoland*
> 
> You can never have too many rads! LOL


There's no additive benefit once you have the cooling capacity for the heat created by your parts. So there's definitely a point.


----------



## goddog

thought I would share my first water cooled PC ... I had just been running an h220 (and had a scare with a pump failure and noticing while gaming cpu was 99c) but moved ahead with a new unit to add gpu cooling to it and rad/res. i plan to have better pics added later. the gpu block is an EK 7970 ltg edition. so much quitter for much better temps. ... your thread has been a bit of an inspiration... also now planning out a additional pump (the failure left me a bit paranoid) and another rad external to the case.


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> My tubing is 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Bloodshed Red and my fittings are EK PSC 1/2" ID compressions.
> 
> The hardest part was screwing the compression rings, not slipping the tubing on the barbs. Screwing the compression rings didn't get any easier with hot water, maybe even worse. Not only did I ruin my fingers to screw the damned things, but I'm also not sure if I did it right. The tubing on some fittings comes out with an angle, which means the tubing moved while I was screwing the rings. I've got no leaks from them, but I want to fix that. Can't decide on whether I should redo it with the same tubing or not.


I ve been following your message exchange about the PC ADVANCED LRT and i must say that in my case, i found zero difference in stiffness between my old PC RT PRO and my new PC ADVANCED LRT which i got from specialtech. Thats strange and i even asked specialtech guys if there was a mix-up between the old and new tube but they reassured me its the new ADVANCED version.

So, the only assumption i can make is that the 7/16-5/8 version of ADVANCED LRT is not that stiff and with more accurate inner-outer dimensions that assist the tube to slide better on the compression fittings...


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> I ve been following your message exchange about the PC ADVANCED LRT and i must say that in my case, i found zero difference in stiffness between my old PC RT PRO and my new PC ADVANCED LRT which i got from specialtech. Thats strange and i even asked specialtech guys if there was a mix-up between the old and new tube but they reassured me its the new ADVANCED version.
> 
> So, the only assumption i can make is that the 7/16-5/8 version of ADVANCED LRT is not that stiff and with more accurate inner-outer dimensions that assist the tube to slide better on the compression fittings...


I'm thinking about changing to 3/8" ID 5/8" OD Primochill Advanced LRT with Monsoon compression fittings for less stiffness and easier installation.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I'm thinking about changing to 3/8" ID 5/8" OD Primochill Advanced LRT with Monsoon compression fittings for less stiffness and easier installation.


Advance is pretty stiff but 3/8x5/8 has a really good thickness in the wall which allows it to make some nice bends. Similar to 1/2x3/4.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> There's no additive benefit once you have the cooling capacity for the heat created by your parts. So there's definitely a point.


There's always gotta be at least one wet blanket.









Anyway.
Just got back up and running, quick snapshot for the gallery.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I'm thinking about changing to 3/8" ID 5/8" OD Primochill Advanced LRT with Monsoon compression fittings for less stiffness and easier installation.



Using the same stuff you are going to use
Love the bending capability!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> There's always gotta be at least one wet blanket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway.
> Just got back up and running, quick snapshot for the gallery.


so tidy mike!


----------



## wermad

for rads: law of diminishing return. By adding more, it doesn't mean you'll have more cooling. Your drop in temps will be smaller and smaller to the point of nill.

ie: I had three Monsta 480s cooling four gpu(s) and a cpu. I hooked up one monsta 480 and it cooled pretty much the same. For the looks and/or e-peen factor, go for it (looks at his own sig rig







).


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> New build!
> 
> Compact Splash #001 - ACE
> Specs in sig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy ***** what is that case? I want one so badly.


----------



## DarthBeavis

Made a jig for bending the tubing

















Primochill Rigid tubes bend well


















































added some lighting

























Configuring Corsair Link software (set image to my rig). For some reason the 4th GPU drops in and out of some utilities. I am setting the Corsair Link to make LEDS red if temps rise beyond 70 will lower it when I run load tests


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> Made a jig for bending the tubing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Primochill Rigid tubes bend well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> added some lighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Configuring Corsair Link software (set image to my rig). For some reason the 4th GPU drops in and out of some utilities. I am setting the Corsair Link to make LEDS red if temps rise beyond 70 will lower it when I run load tests


Wow! That looks awesome man!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## DarthBeavis




----------



## DarthBeavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Wow! That looks awesome man!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


thanks!


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> New build!
> 
> Compact Splash #001 - ACE
> Specs in sig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy ***** what is that case? I want one so badly.
Click to expand...

Case is called Compact splash its made by a member here called dwood. Just go to his website to order one


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Case is called Compact splash its made by a member here called dwood. Just go to his website to order one


Yup found it thanks!

http://www.craftograph.com/compactsplash/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*




If I may though, I'm not a big fan of that etching in the side window, it distracts from the goodness inside









Also, what fittings are those?


----------



## DarthBeavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> 
> 
> If I may though, I'm not a big fan of that etching in the side window, it distracts from the goodness inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, what fittings are those?


Not etching, routed







glows

Fittings are Primochill, they come in as many colors as Skittles but they will not get you shot


----------



## wermad

@DarthBeavis, what an amazing build!!!!! Hope you enter Motm


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @DarthBeavis, what an amazing build!!!!! Hope you enter Motm


Wermad I thought you would like that when I saw it.









And I agree btw!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @DarthBeavis, what an amazing build!!!!! Hope you enter Motm


He can't







it's a sponsored build.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @DarthBeavis, what an amazing build!!!!! Hope you enter Motm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He can't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's a sponsored build.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Sponsored builds can't enter mod of the month?


----------



## MillerModPCs

Where do you enter MOTM?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Sponsored builds can't enter mod of the month?


Quote from the Mod of the Month Rules section:
Quote:


> It is not a sponsored mod (as defined by the rules of the Sponsored Case Mods sub-forum)


http://www.overclock.net/t/1410524/july-2013-mod-of-the-month-open-for-business









Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Didn't know it was sponsored, never mind then


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*


I was beginning to wonder when you would get around to posting QoB up DB......

Perhaps you should post a little montage for those who don't know who you are mate.


----------



## robcowboy73

I have a quick question for the guy using Primochill Rigid tubes. Do you need to use a pipe insert to stop it from creasing or stopping it from folding which will slow the coolant down


----------



## kcuestag

Getting ready for tomorrow's lan party! Got some Bitfenix white sleeved extensions from Amazon, had them before but one of the 8pcie extensions broke (I broke it







) so ordered a replacement, and a CPU 8pin extension as well.









Will be draining the loop in a couple of hours before going to sleep.


----------



## DarthBeavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I have a quick question for the guy using Primochill Rigid tubes. Do you need to use a pipe insert to stop it from creasing or stopping it from folding which will slow the coolant down


yes


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I have a quick question for the guy using Primochill Rigid tubes. Do you need to use a pipe insert to stop it from creasing or stopping it from folding which will slow the coolant down


http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/0_20

You are welcome.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Sponsored builds can't enter mod of the month?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote from the Mod of the Month Rules section:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> It is not a sponsored mod (as defined by the rules of the Sponsored Case Mods sub-forum)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1410524/july-2013-mod-of-the-month-open-for-business
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

You also cant enter if your build is posted anywhere else,ie another forum.
Its screwed me royally several times.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You also cant enter if your build is posted anywhere else,ie another forum.
> Its screwed me royally several times.


That's a rule that I think should be changed, but the sponsored build rule I agree with.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was beginning to wonder when you would get around to posting QoB up DB......
> 
> Perhaps you should post a little montage for those who don't know who you are mate.


+1

Was awesome seeing that in person DB. Epic is a word that is often overused, but that is the best way to describe that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Time to shoehorn the SR2 into a new home i think


----------



## Sunreeper

Yeah that case is amazing


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've seen some properly mad builds on this site before but nothing has ever made my rig feel more inadequate than the DB build! Seriously incredible build even if I don't like the color scheme!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've seen some properly mad builds on this site before but nothing has ever made my rig feel more inadequate than the DB build! Seriously incredible build even if I don't like the color scheme!


That is one of his more restrained builds.........

True story.

Plus he can troll like a BAWS.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That is one of this more restrained builds.........


A certain "Home Server" springs to mind.

Going to PDXLAN and seeing DB's creations in person is the very reason why I got into case modding and enthusiast builds.


----------



## Razarach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by robcowboy73
> I have a quick question for the guy using Primochill Rigid tubes. Do you need to use a pipe insert to stop it from creasing or stopping it from folding which will slow the coolant down


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> yes


Where I can buy this silicone pipe insert?
Sorry for quoting image.


----------



## wermad

Is the psu behind the mb or in the drive bays???
Quote:


>


http://www.techpowerup.com/184912/phanteks-enthoo-primo-case-pictured.html


----------



## Sunreeper

Yeah it is its like a better corsair 540


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razarach*
> 
> Where I can buy this silicone pipe insert?
> Sorry for quoting image.


FrozenCPU and PPC's both carry it. It's a Primochill product that was released along with the rest of their acrylic fittings/pipe stuff.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Yeah it is its like a better corsair 540


Damn, i would have waited for this one. Oh well, 900D still pretty good imho








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razarach*
> 
> Where I can buy this silicone pipe insert?
> Sorry for quoting image.


Don't be sorry for quoting pics. Its encourage so we have a better understanding of your question.

Well, from what I remember on the Primochill video, they're including one. I checked their site and it doesn't show anything there but I do recall the rep in the vid saying you can get one. It is a silicone insert to prevent the tube from collapsing once you heat and bend it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is the psu behind the mb or in the drive bays???
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/184912/phanteks-enthoo-primo-case-pictured.html
Click to expand...

Its behind the bottom horizontal rad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razarach*
> 
> Where I can buy this silicone pipe insert?
> Sorry for quoting image.
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenCPU and PPC's both carry it. It's a Primochill product that was released along with the rest of their acrylic fittings/pipe stuff.
Click to expand...

Only works with primochills tube,they went Imperial rather than metric.

The tube i use is RC car fuel line or you can use any silicone rod that matches the ID (-.5mm)of your chosen tube.

Ie. 10mm ID means a 9 or 9.5mm rod.

Exact ID OD match will make it very hard to get the tube in and out.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its behind the bottom horizontal rad












One more rad for kicks. Still thinking on how it will fit back there


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> Holy ***** what is that case? I want one so badly.


Sent you a PM.


----------



## mattcube64

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Currently looking for decent radiator fans, and stumbled upon these peculiar ones. Has anyone had experience with or own these fans?
> 
> 
> 
> These fans are from BlackNoise, a.k.a. NoiseBlocker.
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8/Noiseblocker-NB_eLoop_Series_120mm
> 
> I think they look good. But I wonder about the performance.


I have red Phobya-branded ones. 1600RPM pushes a good amount of air and relatively quiet. I like em.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

It's OK to quote a single pic, just not a wall of them...


----------



## DarthBeavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its behind the bottom horizontal rad
> Only works with primochills tube,they went Imperial rather than metric.
> 
> The tube i use is RC car fuel line or you can use any silicone rod that matches the ID (-.5mm)of your chosen tube.
> 
> Ie. 10mm ID means a 9 or 9.5mm rod.
> 
> Exact ID OD match will make it very hard to get the tube in and out.


I had to sand the hell out of mine to make it work well (meaning the stuff Primochill recommends). They cover doing it in the video. I ordered from McMaster Carr


----------



## Simontr




----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Loving my Mayhems XT-1 red coolant so far. Been 5 months of constant use and its still as clear and fresh looking as the first day!


----------



## SuperB4d

Heres my current build. Cpu has been watercooled for over a year and added in the gpu just the other day. Switech Apogee HD, MCR QP320, XSPC Razor GTX 770, MCP 655 Pump, XSPC 5.25" Bay Res, and Bitspower 1/2" x 3/4" compression fitting on blocks and barbs on the rest (out of sight) and finally 1/2" x 3/4" UV Blue Tubing.
 [IMG


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperB4d*
> 
> Heres my current build. Cpu has been watercooled for over a year and added in the gpu just the other day. Switech Apogee HD, MCR QP320, XSPC Razor GTX 770, MCP 655 Pump, XSPC 5.25" Bay Res, and Bitspower 1/2" x 3/4" compression fitting on blocks and barbs on the rest (out of sight) and finally 1/2" x 3/4" UV Blue Tubing.










I love that color scheme


----------



## wermad

Little rad plumbed:


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, i would have waited for this one. Oh well, 900D still pretty good imho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't be sorry for quoting pics. Its encourage so we have a better understanding of your question.
> 
> Well, from what I remember on the Primochill video, they're including one. I checked their site and it doesn't show anything there but I do recall the rep in the vid saying you can get one. It is a silicone insert to prevent the tube from collapsing once you heat and bend it.


This silicone insert is pain in the bottom to try and find. Here in the UK can't even get the pip I have had to order from the US and pay a pretty penny on the old P&P


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, i would have waited for this one. Oh well, 900D still pretty good imho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't be sorry for quoting pics. Its encourage so we have a better understanding of your question.
> 
> Well, from what I remember on the Primochill video, they're including one. I checked their site and it doesn't show anything there but I do recall the rep in the vid saying you can get one. It is a silicone insert to prevent the tube from collapsing once you heat and bend it.
> 
> 
> 
> This silicone insert is pain in the bottom to try and find. Here in the UK can't even get the pip I have had to order from the US and pay a pretty penny on the old P&P
Click to expand...

You are joking right?

Silicone rod is widely available in the UK.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are joking right?
> 
> Silicone rod is widely available in the UK.


Where's a list of the compatible fittings? Same as the copper ones? Your acrylic guide (awesome btw







) don't have any.


----------



## thestache

Who needs a case?

Sick of waiting for new case, got new build and just laying on the box. Delidded my 4770k with the vice method which went well but somehow the PCB got a good nick in it, must have been when it separated from the IHS. Not sure if it's responsible for the instability of my CPU over 4600mhz or if my CPU just sucks. Shame since it doesn't get any hotter than 54deg running prime. I thought these things were supposed to be uncontrollably hot.

EK naked kit is great and I'm a fan of the black tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are joking right?
> 
> Silicone rod is widely available in the UK.
> 
> 
> 
> Where's a list of the compatible fittings? Same as the copper ones? Your acrylic guide (awesome btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) don't have any.
Click to expand...

There is list later in the thread,I will edit the first post with a list for you.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Who needs a case?
> 
> Sick of waiting for new case, got new build and just laying on the box. Delidded my 4770k with the vice method which went well but somehow the PCB got a good nick in it, must have been when it separated from the IHS. Not sure if it's responsible for the instability of my CPU over 4600mhz or if my CPU just sucks. Shame since it doesn't get any hotter than 54deg running prime. I thought these things were supposed to be uncontrollably hot.
> 
> EK naked kit is great and I'm a fan of the black tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Get that board off the anti static bag pronto! Other than that, it looks like it will be a great setup when you get your test bench!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Alastair

Hey Guys. I have some pics to post on my set-up. Raystorm block, EX280 rad P/P (Aerocool Sharkfan 140mm in push and CM Storm Force 200 pull) , 750 Pump/Res


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Get that board off the anti static bag pronto! Other than that, it looks like it will be a great setup when you get your test bench!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


How come?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Get that board off the anti static bag pronto! Other than that, it looks like it will be a great setup when you get your test bench!
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> How come?
Click to expand...

The outside of the antistatic bag is conductive! The bag itself is also only designed to protect devices that are not powered.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> The outside of the antistatic bag is conductive! The bag itself is also only designed to protect devices that are not powered.


Lol. Alright then, my bad.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> The outside of the antistatic bag is conductive! The bag itself is also only designed to protect devices that are not powered.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol. Alright then, my bad.
Click to expand...

No problem lots of people make the mistake and then end up accidently frying their motherboard lol


----------



## pooter

Reminds me when I first started out and thought motherboard standoff screws were meant to brace the motherboard for support and added some extra underneath...


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> No problem lots of people make the mistake and then end up accidently frying their motherboard lol


Lol. Well thanks for the heads up then.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> This silicone insert is pain in the bottom to try and find. Here in the UK can't even get the pip I have had to order from the US and pay a pretty penny on the old P&P


http://www.e22.biz/WC005E2.aspx#.Ue-noZ1H76k


----------



## illuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooter*
> 
> Reminds me when I first started out and thought motherboard standoff screws were meant to brace the motherboard for support and added some extra underneath...


Hahaha


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooter*
> 
> Reminds me when I first started out and thought motherboard standoff screws were meant to brace the motherboard for support and added some extra underneath...


My brother's been there..


----------



## PedroC1999

What is the smallest case that can fit a 360(45mm) and a 240(60mm)

My 810 is a bit too huge I think


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What is the smallest case that can fit a 360(45mm) and a 240(60mm)
> 
> My 810 is a bit too huge I think


200R?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> 200R?


Sorry, with at least 3 5.25" bays spare


----------



## Ishinomori

Not sure, i've been looking for a cheap case that can fit a 360 Rad for a friend of mines kid.

Good luck.


----------



## cyphon

The switch 810 at like $150 is really one of the most (if not most) affordable water cooling cases with 360 rad support and doesn't require modding.

Other cases in that price range will require some work, removing most or all hdd/5.25" bays, or using external rads for 360 support...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What is the smallest case that can fit a 360(45mm) and a 240(60mm)
> 
> My 810 is a bit too huge I think


Corsair c70?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Corsair c70?


The way this is going, I might have to build it myself,


----------



## derickwm

Don't drop that one down the stairs too.


----------



## PedroC1999

Il try not to.









Just in Sketchup designing it, the total height of the rig will be just shy of 2 radiators side by side, so much smaller


----------



## nepToon

The new Arc mini r2 will fit a 360 in the top natively, pretty badass for a mATX case.

Alibi:


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> The new Arc mini r2 will fit a 360 in the top natively, pretty badass for a mATX case.


Oh yeah! I forgot the new version could fit the 360! I think I am ordering one for my next build









What thickness 360 can you fit in it and does it take away one of the 5.25" slots?


----------



## robcowboy73

I am already there I am in the middle of min and it is a monster. it will stand H/700 mm D 600 mm W/400 mm with cooling goodies coming at a later date.
I just wanted a case that can cope with a O.T.T. build and I can say I built it from the ground up and it cost less than £100 bucks in aluminium. the expensive bit will be filling it with goodies


----------



## steelkevin

Finally got around to taking proper pictures, had a total of 64 with different levels of darkness / brightness, narrowed it down to 14 and a friend helped me pick the best ones I couldn't decide on so I've got 10 left.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Please go easy on me, I would have better top fans and components but I barely have any money, the loop including everything cost me 200€ (concentrate blue pastel and the blue dye was free, the four Apaches I got for 6€ unit on sale and sold the old noctuas for 7€ each, bought everything second hand for 150€ and the tubing, fittings and Yates cost me 50€).














As you can see, the Midi R2 has a smoked window because of which you can't see much of the inside of your case. I'm thinking about finally getting some internal lighting. I want it to look natural as opposed to flashy so I'm definitely going white. What would be the best option: strips like the NZXT ones, single LEDs or something like those UV bars ? Would it cost me much ?


----------



## illuz

That looks very very clean, lovely colour of blue too! I can't offer any advice on LEDs though, haven't used any yet personally.


----------



## DizZz

I really like that block. What is it?


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> I really like that block. What is it?


Looks like the EK Supreme HF (copper) to me:


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Oh yeah! I forgot the new version could fit the 360! I think I am ordering one for my next build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What thickness 360 can you fit in it and does it take away one of the 5.25" slots?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5HSirKRHmU 3min15

Looks like 45mm rads atleasst. about the drivebays; depends on how thick the Radiator ist gonna be, but since I haven't found any infos on the disassembly of the 5.25" drivebays I would assume its one piece so that would mean no 5.25" drivebays. That's just an assumption!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5HSirKRHmU 3min15
> 
> Looks like 45mm rads atleasst. about the drivebays; depends on how thick the Radiator ist gonna be, but since I haven't found any infos on the disassembly of the 5.25" drivebays I would assume its one piece so that would mean no 5.25" drivebays. That's just an assumption!


hmm, with that thick of one as in the video, you'd definitely have to scrap the 5.25" bays....a low profile 1 'may' slide in over the top of em, but I am doubting it. Possibly if you mounted the fans on top, but that is going to hurt the aesthetics. I really like the SSD mounts on the mobo plate though....

I am thinking I might be removing the HDD cages completely and using the SSDs...an 80mm think 280 rad up front and then the thickest 240 rad in the top. Maybe add a single or two to the back and/or in the bottom if need be. This would call for a bay res for sure tho


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Finally got around to taking proper pictures, had a total of 64 with different levels of darkness / brightness, narrowed it down to 14 and a friend helped me pick the best ones I couldn't decide on so I've got 10 left.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Please go easy on me, I would have better top fans and components but I barely have any money, the loop including everything cost me 200€ (concentrate blue pastel and the blue dye was free, the four Apaches I got for 6€ unit on sale and sold the old noctuas for 7€ each, bought everything second hand for 150€ and the tubing, fittings and Yates cost me 50€).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the Midi R2 has a smoked window because of which you can't see much of the inside of your case. I'm thinking about finally getting some internal lighting. I want it to look natural as opposed to flashy so I'm definitely going white. What would be the best option: strips like the NZXT ones, single LEDs or something like those UV bars ? Would it cost me much ?


Love that shade of blue. Good job, very clean build.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Not sure, i've been looking for a cheap case that can fit a 360 Rad for a friend of mines kid.
> 
> Good luck.


The fractal midi r2 can fit a 360 up top natively. You gan get them for $80 on sale. I got one for 80 shipped a couple months back.

The c70 fits one but blocks some of the rad. as it was made for 2x120 or 2x140.

In both cases the top optical bay is compromised. You could probably fit a fan controller but not an optical drive.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Not sure, i've been looking for a cheap case that can fit a 360 Rad for a friend of mines kid.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> The fractal midi r2 can fit a 360 up top natively. You gan get them for $80 on sale. I got one for 80 shipped a couple months back.
> 
> The c70 fits one but blocks some of the rad. as it was made for 2x120 or 2x140.
> 
> In both cases the top optical bay is compromised. You could probably fit a fan controller but not an optical drive.
Click to expand...

Not true,the C70 can take a 360 in the top without blocking the drivebays and it only loses around 1 inch from each end of the rad,including tanks.

This is dependent on the rad depth tho,the EX rad i used was not a problem.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,the C70 can take a 360 in the top without blocking the drivebays and it only loses around 1 inch from each end of the rad,including tanks.
> 
> This is dependent on the rad depth tho,the EX rad i used was not a problem.


I fit a 35x360mm rad in push in the top with a fan controller behind the front IO panel. Is plenty of room up there. gdubc you'd be surprised how much room there is in that case. Can fit a 360mm in the roof, 240mm in the front, 120mm in the floor and a 120mm in the rear and that's with all three drive bays untouched, room for a 200mm PSU and long GPUs.


----------



## gdubc

Really? I just worked on my kids last night and it has a sp120 top back exhaust and a zalman 120 rad. next to that. I have a shroud on the zalman and it basically touches the dvd/rw drive that is in the bottom od slot. I thought there was no way to fit a 360 up there and still use the slot. Good to know!


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> I really like that block. What is it?


Really xD ? I've had several people tell me it looks weird and feels out of place and I sort of thought that myself to be honest. It's uses the old mounting system though which is quite a hassle to use (I hated it so much that I'd contacted EK and asked them if they could send me the new mounting system for free, obviously they said no and gave me a link to buy it ^^).
Jetskyer is right though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Love that shade of blue. Good job, very clean build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illuz*
> 
> That looks very very clean, lovely colour of blue too! I can't offer any advice on LEDs though, haven't used any yet personally.


Thanks a lot, I guess the photos aren't that bad then







.
It could probably be much cleaner if the satas and other cables were sleeved or something (just can't afford that right now). But it's much better than the first time I put it together in my white Phantom (the four P14-FLX Noctuas didn't help too). And it's definitely way better than while waiting for the case to arrive:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The coolant was sponsored my Mayhems himself a while ago. He sent me two 250mL bottles of Concentrate Blue Berry Pastel and a 10mL bottle of blue dye. I used an entire concentrate bottle with 750mL of DI water and about 9mL of the dye.

The watercooling itself is useless for the moment though. It's only cooling a stock i7-860 that I can't overclock but I wanted to do it so I did xD. And now I've got the loop I won't need to buy it when I eventually upgrade components (either motherboard alone, or CPU+motherboard, and obviously a watercooled GPU sooner or later).


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Really? I just worked on my kids last night and it has a sp120 top back exhaust and a zalman 120 rad. next to that. I have a shroud on the zalman and it basically touches the dvd/rw drive that is in the bottom od slot. I thought there was no way to fit a 360 up there and still use the slot. Good to know!




What mine currently looks like.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> instead of wasting all of that time getting a new top,
> 
> id take the top down to your local machine shop and ask them to touch up those threads for you....
> 
> i doubt they'd charge more than $5


Sadly the outlet's issue is actually a pair of threads missing entirely, leaving a gaping hole in the threading.









Double sadly it transpired that the pump was out of warranty (second hand buy) and Swiftech was thus unable to help me out with a new top. The local shop has EK's tops but I'm unsure about their effect on performance. Not being a US based customer I would have to order Swiftech's own top from overseas, which would result in a major costs explosion. And the EK looks rather pretty too... Argh. Such difficult times.


----------



## cyphon

Has anyone used the Cougar Vortex fans on their rads? If so, how do they perfrom? I have an idea for an orange/black/white theme and they'd play into that pretty well


----------



## SuperB4d

next post... ooops


----------



## SuperB4d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love that color scheme


Thanks, black, blue and white just seem to work for me.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708123

Would these fittings work with a XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240? I want to have straight lines in my tubing, instead of it bending and looping.


----------



## derickwm

Yup.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Thanks!


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are joking right?
> 
> Silicone rod is widely available in the UK.


I am not a shopper and I am in south wales wear there are no ps shops that do water cooling so I have to rely on the net and Special tech are out of stock and have been for the past month or so.
If you now of a shop that carry's the bits and peaces the are need please do tell as I am a newbie at this most of my stuff comes from amazon or e bay


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are joking right?
> 
> Silicone rod is widely available in the UK.
> 
> 
> 
> I am not a shopper and I am in south wales wear there are no ps shops that do water cooling so I have to rely on the net and Special tech are out of stock and have been for the past month or so.
> If you now of a shop that carry's the bits and peaces the are need please do tell as I am a newbie at this most of my stuff comes from amazon or e bay
Click to expand...

Just put the tube OD and silicone rod into your browser and it will give you many choices.

http://www.silex.co.uk/silicone_cord_information.html

I use these guys.

Specialtech are getting it in as we speak.


----------



## robcowboy73

thank's for the link I will look in to it the mane problem is when you go to the big reps they sell it in bulk and I will only nee a foot at the most but I will send them an e mail and you never now I mite get a off cut


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Has anyone used the Cougar Vortex fans on their rads? If so, how do they perfrom? I have an idea for an orange/black/white theme and they'd play into that pretty well


They perform very well. Relatively quiet at full speed and maintains a medium static pressure of 1.7mm H20. I would recommend them, especially since their some of the only orange colored fans on the market. By the way, I noticed you linked a NewEgg picture, they're cheaper on FrozenCPU.


----------



## THC Butterz

I am really begining to resent seeing this thread those meny moons before... it seems like every time i see this thread it both gives me a new idea, and then im stuck working on my pc for another couple of days, or it makes my rig look bad and then I start window shopping for hardware i honestly cant afford... bad enough this thread made me spend all that money to water cool a 3 year old build in the first place... aah i need to shut up and buy new watercooling parts now that im thinking about it... noooooo!!!


----------



## Red1776

Hi guys,
I have started work on Holodeck XI. As well as a build log
The machine is going to be a Five Rad , Quad pump,Dual Resevoir, Triple PSU 2.2kW,Quadfire, Rig with many custom fabrications and modifications. Such as a side window unlike any i have ever seen, custom
Backplates and other goodies.
Not much is there yet, but soon will be

If you are interested, It can be found here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1412530/holodeck-xi-amd-quadfire-extreme-watercooling-buildlog#post_20472114


----------



## Dhalgren65

I love em'


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> They perform very well. Relatively quiet at full speed and maintains a medium static pressure of 1.7mm H20. I would recommend them, especially since their some of the only orange colored fans on the market. By the way, I noticed you linked a NewEgg picture, they're cheaper on FrozenCPU.


Might be a NewEgg sale, but they look the same price to me [$13.99]...the NewEgg one also has PWM control, the FrozenCPU does not

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18996/fan-1189/Cougar_120mm_x_25mm_Vortex_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearing_Fan_-_Orange_CFV12H.html?tl=c15s60b218#blank


----------



## stickg1

I also use the Fractal Arc Midi R2. I removed the HDDs cages and mounted a 256GB Crucial M4 and a WD 750GB Black 2.5" on the back of the mobo tray. I also removed the 5.25" bays because I have no plans of using them and it makes the res easier to fill.

I prefer the look of a mid tower to the full towers. Full towers are awesome, don't get me wrong but I like to try to keep it compact. I might try a mATX or mini-ITX build next.

I put a Black Ice GT 240mm up front with p/p Corsair SP120s and a 240mm XSPC RS240 up top with Thermalright High's.



Not the best pic but I am adding my GTX 760 to the loop this weekend and will clean it all up and take some pictures.


----------



## THC Butterz

I recently re did my rig and this is the result, I know its nothing special, but its mine and im proud of it


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I recently re did my rig and this is the result, I know its nothing special, but its mine and im proud of it :]
> 
> That is PRECISELY what makes it special! You built it, there's only one EXACTLY like it in the whole world and YOU are proud of it.
> That's the whole reason this forum is here, filled with all of us people that don't want the same box and set up as everyone else in a four country radius


----------



## stickg1

I agree, but is that just one 120/140mm rad for the CPU and GPU? What are your specs/clocks/temps/etc.?


----------



## brian1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> The new Arc mini r2 will fit a 360 in the top natively, pretty badass for a mATX case.
> 
> Alibi:


Ye that is why I am getting it lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian1115*
> 
> Ye that is why I am getting it lol


I ordered mine today as it was $30 off at micro center. Will take me awhile to build out due to funds but I will have plenty of planning time


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I agree, but is that just one 120/140mm rad for the CPU and GPU? What are your specs/clocks/temps/etc.?


Looks like there's a 360mm in the top, which would be plenty for CPU and 1 GPU including the rear 120/140mm rad he has.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I agree, but is that just one 120/140mm rad for the CPU and GPU? What are your specs/clocks/temps/etc.?


the rear rad is a 120, but I have a black ice stealth gt 360 going across the top.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> the rear rad is a 120, but I have a black ice stealth gt 360 going across the top.


Oh nice! I didn't see any tubing going up there, must be behind the 5.25" cage. I can see it in the first picture now. Looks good!


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I recently re did my rig and this is the result, I know its nothing special, but its mine and im proud of it :]
> 
> That is PRECISELY what makes it special! You built it, there's only one EXACTLY like it in the whole world and YOU are proud of it.
> That's the whole reason this forum is here, filled with all of us people that don't want the same box and set up as everyone else in a four country radius
Click to expand...

I like this quote.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I recently re did my rig and this is the result, I know its nothing special, but its mine and im proud of it :]
> 
> That is PRECISELY what makes it special! You built it, there's only one EXACTLY like it in the whole world and YOU are proud of it.
> That's the whole reason this forum is here, filled with all of us people that don't want the same box and set up as everyone else in a four country radius
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I like this quote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Know right...
Click to expand...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> The new Arc mini r2 will fit a 360 in the top natively, pretty badass for a mATX case.
> 
> Alibi:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good pic.


----------



## pc-illiterate

pfft, nobody likes mine but me. ive posted pics of before and after additions and never a word from anyone. doesnt matter to me. i did myself and i like it. pretty happy with the results except for the 1 question i asked 2-3 weeks. never got an answer either.
no love for the ugly pc.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> pfft, nobody likes mine but me. ive posted pics of before and after additions and never a word from anyone. doesnt matter to me. i did myself and i like it. pretty happy with the results except for the 1 question i asked 2-3 weeks. never got an answer either.
> no love for the ugly pc.


Let me see how ugly your pc is.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Let me see how ugly your pc is.


Unlike this forum... I've only experienced this when my biulds were sandwiched between some carat builds lol. Can't blame people for talking bout the insane rather than my standard yet clean build lol


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Unlike this forum... I've only experienced this when my bills for sandwiched between some carat builds lol. Can't blame people for taking not the insane rather than my standard yet clean build lol


Or in between hot conversation.


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Has anyone used the Cougar Vortex fans on their rads? If so, how do they perfrom? I have an idea for an orange/black/white theme and they'd play into that pretty well


they are top-notch. my opinion is that they are the best PWM fans for high static pressure.


----------



## Knight091

Update on my computer build.

I have most of the tubing in and fittings. Just waiting on more compression fittings that will be here today. Will be making the motherboard back plate and the lower cover to cover up the PSU and bottom parts this weekend.









http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C1_zps4f0a5911.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C2_zps66b21d0b.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C4_zpsb248f0d0.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C5_zps38b7301f.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C3_zpsc623f5cf.jpg.html


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight091*
> 
> Update on my computer build.
> 
> I have most of the tubing in and fittings. Just waiting on more compression fittings that will be here today. Will be making the motherboard back plate and the lower cover to cover up the PSU and bottom parts this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C5_zps38b7301f.jpg.html


Looking good man









but do you have enough space there for the ram on the left slot?
I see there is tube in the way...


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Looking good man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but do you have enough space there for the ram on the left slot?
> I see there is tube in the way...


That one tube appears to be coming up vertically, so they probably do...but the angle of the photo appears to make it look that way, doesn't it!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight091*
> 
> Update on my computer build.
> 
> I have most of the tubing in and fittings. Just waiting on more compression fittings that will be here today. Will be making the motherboard back plate and the lower cover to cover up the PSU and bottom parts this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C1_zps4f0a5911.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C2_zps66b21d0b.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C4_zpsb248f0d0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C5_zps38b7301f.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/C3_zpsc623f5cf.jpg.html


just leave that pice of tubing out and have a cool waterfall effect... lolz








looking good.


----------



## islandgam3r

@knight091 Sweeet RIG bro,cant wait until i build one of mine; but I honestly think that the 900D is only good if you plan to run custom loop water cooling with reservoir, at first I was planning to get it for my upcoming build (See Profile Threads) and some ppl steered me away from it due to wat I was looking to build....(if it were cheaper - $349.99 on Newegg =[ - I would def had stuck with it and not gone with CM HAF X gaming case.)

On another note I've seen alot of reviews that stated that the side aluminum panels are flimsy and cheaply made along with hot swap HDD tooless slots and that it dents easily and dirties quickly with fingerprints from touching it. but let us all know when you finalized that BEAST your building XD


----------



## ledzepp3

Hmmmm... I see all these 900D's, I raise to you my SMH10.


----------



## Justinator

Added a second GTX 680 w/ EK block and dual parallel bridge, as well as relocating the res. Thanks to Wermad for advice re res placement options.


----------



## sebar

Does anyone have the copper plugs for Alphacool rads that they no longer need or want?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Does anyone have the copper plugs for Alphacool rads that they no longer need or want?


How many you need?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> How many you need?


I need 5 extra to plug the holes in my pump top and the res so that they all match.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hmmmm... I see all these 900D's, I raise to you my SMH10.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ASO7

_Not finished..._


----------



## Shogon

Haven't installed the 3rd card, for now I did it like so just to get an idea of how things worked.






















Will buff up the copper pipe to give it that extra shiny glow in time











Going to sand down the backplates and radiator grills before the next coat, unfortunately some junk flew on it >__>. Still lots of painting, cutting, soldering, buying aluminum/plexiglass and other stuff to do before I can see how things go.

Sorry it is pretty bright outside (and using an iPad as a camera







), but I can't seem to take a half okay picture inside the house with our screens


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Looks good Shogon!

I can appreciate all the time and hard work you're putting into your build.


----------



## Knight091

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Looking good man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but do you have enough space there for the ram on the left slot?
> I see there is tube in the way...


Thanks. Yes their is a lot of room for the ram. It is just how the picture was shot. I will be finishing the water loop tonight other than the main system drain at the bottom of the case that will be in the back of the case coming out the extra PSU spot.


----------



## Buklyne

Hey guys i update my ASUS ROG rig, tell me what you think abou it


----------



## cyphon

Nice shade of red on the fluid


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Hey guys i update my ASUS ROG rig, tell me what you think abou it


LOVE that 24 pin!


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Hey guys i update my ASUS ROG rig, tell me what you think abou it


What tubing/coolant are you using? Is that clear tubing with Mayhems dye? If so which dye, the red one or the deep red?

My red tubing seems so cheap next to your setup...


----------



## Ftimster

Hay guys I have a lot of bitspower fittings like 8 90`s 8 45`s 10 rotary snake and so on still working out my loop and was wondering what are the fittings that let you connect two fittings together?? Would someone please post a link to frozencpu for what I need thanks  I'm using the black bits power compression fittings


----------



## Ftimster

Sorry 4 snake fittings was hoping for one solid fitting from bottom of the bits power 250ml red to the pump sorry for the double post


----------



## cyphon

Look up G1/4 male to male adapters. Bitspower and all the others make them.


----------



## PCModderMike

Yes I've found using a male to male adapter is one of the best ways to mount a res right onto the top of a pump. Here's what I'm currently using.


Bunch of different types and sizes and colors can be found - HERE


----------



## Ftimster

Thanks guys +1


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Has anyone used the Cougar Vortex fans on their rads? If so, how do they perfrom? I have an idea for an orange/black/white theme and they'd play into that pretty well


My favourite rad fans.

For my ears the pitch and noise output is hardly noticeable. Very similar noise output and pitch to the Corsair SP120s which I'm running at the moment.

Compare them here to other fans you might be interested in. I wanted to try GTs or NBs for my new build but the pitch of them seems more distinct and high pitched to my ears than the others so I went with the PWM Corsair SP120s and at 1450RPM they are super quiet *to me*.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/


----------



## cyphon

Good stuff thanks!


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Good stuff thanks!


No worries, the overall level of the sound output of other fans is quieter as seen in the videos but in the end it's up to your ears and how fast you want to run your fans.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Looks good Shogon!
> 
> I can appreciate all the time and hard work you're putting into your build.


Thank you so much! You have no idea how badly I just want to play a game on it >_<. I'm hoping this Saturday or Sunday I'll be finished. So long as painting goes well







that's the most time consuming at the moment.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> No worries, the overall level of the sound output of other fans is quieter as seen in the videos but in the end it's up to your ears and how fast you want to run your fans.


Totally! In the vid, I think they were real good at half speed in terms of noise to airflow. The max speed was a little loud lol. Don't wanna put my case in liftoff mode if I am wc


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yes I've found using a male to male adapter is one of the best ways to mount a res right onto the top of a pump. Here's what I'm currently using.
> 
> 
> Bunch of different types and sizes and colors can be found - HERE


Same here. Male-to-male works great!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Same here. Male-to-male works great!


Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.........eeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhh..............forget it









Anyone running 3/8" or 10mm od acrylic tube?


----------



## ridgey1112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7*
> 
> _Not finished..._


Love the colour scheme!!!
Can't wait to see when finished.


----------



## wermad

Here's an old question that hasn't been asked a for a while: 1/4"(6mm) id causes a lot of restriction?

I'm looking into going with Acrylic tube. I can buy 3/8x1/4 tube for cheap at my local plastics company. I found some bspp push fittings on ebay.


----------



## IronDoq

@MettalicAcid... I'm so sorry it's taken this long, I find myself continually distracted... These are just rough pics, but they should give you a general idea.





Also...







Reppin the Dominator Bling, ehh?


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Nice shade of red on the fluid


yeah dude i am proud of it. glad you like it too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> LOVE that 24 pin!


thanks dude







i made it and the rest also







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> What tubing/coolant are you using? Is that clear tubing with Mayhems dye? If so which dye, the red one or the deep red?
> 
> My red tubing seems so cheap next to your setup...


thanks dude it is tygoon tubing and ek waterblock red bloody liquid







not mayhems


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Here's an old question that hasn't been asked a for a while: 1/4"(6mm) id causes a lot of restriction?
> 
> I'm looking into going with Acrylic tube. I can buy 3/8x1/4 tube for cheap at my local plastics company. I found some bspp push fittings on ebay.


you could always run twin tubes??.. now these's an idea!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> you could always run twin tubes??.. now these's an idea!!!


It should put a good amount of resistance on the pump but I read some old threads where temp wise it won't make a difference. Going to my local hardware store tomorrow to check out the copper tube. That's also an option but the bending tool seems pricey. Prefer acrylic since I can bend it with my trusty heat gun.

But you mean something like this:


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It should put a good amount of resistance on the pump but I read some old threads where temp wise it won't make a difference. Going to my local hardware store tomorrow to check out the copper tube. That's also an option but the bending tool seems pricey. Prefer acrylic since I can bend it with my trusty heat gun.
> 
> But you mean something like this:


Running dual tubes will not increase flow rate (with the pictured Y piece) but sure would look nice.


----------



## cyphon

Smaller tube would be more restrictive and therefore hurt your flow. As long as you have a strong pump though, your temps will be fine.

Running dual tubes will cut the restriction per line (line being the series equivalent of having 2 lines in parallel) in half, but also cut the flow per tube in half.

I'd set up some test loops and see how your flow looks


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It should put a good amount of resistance on the pump but I read some old threads where temp wise it won't make a difference. Going to my local hardware store tomorrow to check out the copper tube. That's also an option but the bending tool seems pricey. Prefer acrylic since I can bend it with my trusty heat gun.
> 
> But you mean something like this:


thats the one, spiral them together, or run different direction. even different colour.. could match you res... just ideas.

if your using cooper, instead of buying tool, just fill tube with sand and bend it around something.


----------



## thestache

These are dreamy.

I'm bummed the nickel finish won't go with my build. I'd go crazy for straight copper versions.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sf3d-triple-point-evo-module-copper-2pcs.html


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Smaller tube would be more restrictive and therefore hurt your flow. As long as you have a strong pump though, your temps will be fine.


Smaller tube has negligible impact on flow rate unless you are using 1/4" or smaller ID tubing.

And running two lines of tubing from each block would not decrease resistance. More than likely it would actually increase resistance due to those silly Y fittings.


----------



## DarthBeavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Smaller tube would be more restrictive and therefore hurt your flow. As long as you have a strong pump though, your temps will be fine.
> 
> Running dual tubes will cut the restriction per line (line being the series equivalent of having 2 lines in parallel) in half, but also cut the flow per tube in half.
> 
> I'd set up some test loops and see how your flow looks


My wife says tube size is everything


----------



## DarthBeavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> My wife says tube size is everything


which is why she has several boyfriends


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> My wife says tube size is everything
> 
> 
> 
> which is why she has several boyfriends
Click to expand...

Dude, you just quoted yourself...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Smaller tube has negligible impact on flow rate unless you are using 1/4" or smaller ID tubing.
> 
> And running two lines of tubing from each block would not decrease resistance. More than likely it would actually increase resistance due to those silly Y fittings.


The fittings would be more resistance but when you run anything in parallel, the equivalent resistance is less.

Series equivalent is equal to inverse of the sum of inverses. Since the tubes are equal, we can represent them both as R.

R_eq = 1/(1/R + 1/R) = 1/(2/R) = R/2

So tubing is half the resistance when running 2 lines in parallel.

Again though, flow through each tube is effectively halved, which is the part you have to worry about


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> My wife says tube size is everything
> 
> 
> 
> which is why she has several boyfriends
Click to expand...

DB,I love you man,only you can troll yourself.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Smaller tube has negligible impact on flow rate unless you are using 1/4" or smaller ID tubing.
> 
> And running two lines of tubing from each block would not decrease resistance. More than likely it would actually increase resistance due to those silly Y fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> The fittings would be more resistance but when you run anything in parallel, the equivalent resistance is less.
> 
> Series equivalent is equal to inverse of the sum of inverses. Since the tubes are equal, we can represent them both as R.
> 
> R_eq = 1/(1/R + 1/R) = 1/(2/R) = R/2
> 
> So tubing is half the resistance when running 2 lines in parallel.
> 
> Again though, flow through each tube is effectively halved, which is the part you have to worry about
Click to expand...

You forget that it all reduces down to the same size bore as the 1/4 thread will allow,volumetric flow is unchanged from single tube,and as lowfat states,this method just doesnt really have an application in Watercooling.
The only use i have seen for those fittings is for spurring off of high restriction blocks such as the ASUS factory VRM block/heatsink from the main loop


----------



## Knight091

UPDATE

My 900D so far. I have finished the lower cover and finished most of the water loop. The pumps are hooked up and the rez and everything but just waiting on the main system drain for the lower rad to get here tomorrow then I will start her up after I get the motherboard back plate done. Think it is starting to really come together..
















http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/6786732_zpse9d06ece.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2528_zps6c9b25b4.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2519_zpsb6372836.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2526_zps071887aa.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2523_zpsb30a6135.jpg.html


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight091*
> 
> UPDATE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My 900D so far. I have finished the lower cover and finished most of the water loop. The pumps are hooked up and the rez and everything but just waiting on the main system drain for the lower rad to get here tomorrow then I will start her up after I get the motherboard back plate done. Think it is starting to really come together..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/6786732_zpse9d06ece.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2528_zps6c9b25b4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2519_zpsb6372836.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2526_zps071887aa.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2523_zpsb30a6135.jpg.html


Can you show me how you manage to squeeze 1/2 3/4 so tight between CPU and VRM.

Ehh, that's not 1/2 3/4 I think. Hmm.


----------



## Knight091

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Can you show me how you manage to squeeze 1/2 3/4 so tight between CPU and VRM.
> 
> Ehh, that's not 1/2 3/4 I think. Hmm.


Yes it is 1/2 3/4 fittings and tubing. It was not easy and took me some thinking of how to make it fit. The hard fit was from the mosfets to the CPU. That was a pain in the ass. The tubing is so short. I can't really show you because I am not going to undo what took me a long time to make fit right. It took many parts and just messing around and finding what parts fit well and with space. I work with Apache attack helicopters and see how to fit things were they should not go all the time in and around the helicopter. Give it in the engine or cockpit etc. The helicopter has fittings like this in it for water cooling etc. I am also a 3D artist and draw out plans etc to make stuff fit etc.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight091*
> 
> Yes it is 1/2 3/4 fittings and tubing. It was not easy and took me some thinking of how to make it fit. The hard fit was from the mosfets to the CPU. That was a pain in the ass. The tubing is so short. I can't really show you because I am not going to undo what took me a long time to make fit right. It took many parts and just messing around and finding what parts fit well and with space. I work with Apache attack helicopters and see how to fit things were they should not go all the time in and around the helicopter. Give it in the engine or cockpit etc. The helicopter has fittings like this in it for water cooling etc. I am also a 3D artist and draw out plans etc to make stuff fit etc.


That part of tubing completely fitted onto the barb? I mean no gap between the tubing and body of the compression?


----------



## Knight091

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> That part of tubing completely fitted onto the barb? I mean no gap between the tubing and body of the compression?


Their is a gap but only like an inch or less showing with the entire tubing being maybe 2 inches or so. I just put it together than made it fit on the VRM block. I had to make the fittings rotate a little so it would fit. That is why I got rotary fittings. Here are the fittings in order from VRM to CPU.

VRM
Bitspower G1/4 Matte BlackTriple Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 1/2" OD 3/4"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_625&products_id=28079

Tubing

Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10037/ex-tub-606/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1609

Bitspower Dual IG1/4" Matte Black 5-Way Rotary Snake-Style Adapter
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_624&products_id=29048

Bitspower Mini Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Black Matte Finish
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=26458

CPU


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight091*
> 
> Their is a gap but only like an inch or less showing with the entire tubing being maybe 2 inches or so. I just put it together than made it fit on the VRM block. I had to make the fittings rotate a little so it would fit. That is why I got roter fittings. Here are the fittings in order from VRM to CPU.
> 
> VRM
> Bitspower G1/4 Matte BlackTriple Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 1/2" OD 3/4"
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_625&products_id=28079
> 
> Tubing
> 
> Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10037/ex-tub-606/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1609
> 
> Bitspower Dual IG1/4" Matte Black 5-Way Rotary Snake-Style Adapter
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_624&products_id=29048
> 
> Bitspower Mini Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Black Matte Finish
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=26458
> 
> CPU


Great, thanks. I can fit one end, and can't with the other end. I have to try the tube bending first.

Thanks a lot mate.


----------



## Knight091

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Great, thanks. I can fit one end, and can't with the other end. I have to try the tube bending first.
> 
> Thanks a lot mate.


It really helps to get rotary fittings. It is really the only way to make it fit other than using tubing . The hard part other than the short tube was the CPU screw down bolts. It is right in the way. If you look I had to rotate it just the right way so it would not hit it.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight091*
> 
> It really helps to get rotary fittings. It is really the only way to make it fit other than using tubing . The hard part other than the short tube was the CPU screw down bolts. It is right in the way. It you look I had to rotate it just the right way so it would not hit it.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Yeah, I'm using rotaries, but still messy. LOL.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Hey, I have the Arc Midi R2. Looking at the 5.25 bays, there is some sort of metal bracket in the second one. Does anyone know if I can remove that? Gotta get the pump/res into those bays, and if that is there, it won't fit.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Here's an old question that hasn't been asked a for a while: 1/4"(6mm) id causes a lot of restriction?
> 
> I'm looking into going with Acrylic tube. I can buy 3/8x1/4 tube for cheap at my local plastics company. I found some bspp push fittings on ebay.


Those fittings are designed for air applications. I don't see any reason why they would not work for water except that they are nickle plated brass and could cause some corrosion problems similar to other nickle plated water blocks. Another problem would be that the threads could be to long to fit into most most water cooling components. You may need to cut the threads down in order to make it fit. I am currently building a system using 10mm copper tube and using Black Acetal Push-to-Connect fittings. I am bending the tube with a $7 tube bender I got from Harbor Freight.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Hey, I have the Arc Midi R2. Looking at the 5.25 bays, there is some sort of metal bracket in the second one. Does anyone know if I can remove that? Gotta get the pump/res into those bays, and if that is there, it won't fit.


Took the 5.25" cage out of the cupboard to check. There's nothing in mine so I'd say that yes you can remove whatever it is you're worried about or else it'd still be there


----------



## stickg1

You just have to take out the HDD cage and then there are some screws underneath the 5.25" bays.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Is the screws just holding in that bracket? I don't want to remove the bay itself, just that annoying bracket. Just trying to make sure.


----------



## steelkevin

Take a picture of it please. I only got mine a couple weeks ago and took the cages out right away so I really can't remember.


----------



## cyphon

I have an Arc Midi R2 being delivered today. I will look at mine tonight after work

EDIT: Just tracked the package and it has been delivered


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> R_eq = 1/(1/R + 1/R) = 1/(2/R) = R/2


You may want to check your equations, that's an equation for resistors in parallel...


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to shoehorn the SR2 into a new home i think






If you are, willing to sell your LD V8?


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm using rotaries, but still messy. LOL.


Here are a few setups I made up for you. You can use the holes on the NB/SB blocks as you please (inlet/outlet) but the CPU block has specific inlet and outlet ports. Using one of these or something close to these would make your system look pretty awesome IMO. Just imagine it in your head and use some 90s and 45s. Your current setup is one of the worst, aesthetically speaking.


----------



## MiiX

Does anyone know if the Apogee Drive II can be used with a delided CPU(no IHS) I know there was a problem with EK blocks...


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Apogee Drive II can be used with a delided CPU(no IHS) I know there was a problem with EK blocks...


I'm not sure but I don't think there's any block that works with a naked Intel without modding. And by modding I mean socket modding, like using the EK naked Ivy kit or something similar.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yes I've found using a male to male adapter is one of the best ways to mount a res right onto the top of a pump. Here's what I'm currently using.
> 
> 
> Bunch of different types and sizes and colors can be found - HERE


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Same here. Male-to-male works great!


Bitspower rotary one worked for me too


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> you could always run twin tubes??.. now these's an idea!!!


You can get them here Adelaide from Festo.








I got a few from the fitter at work









http://www.festo.com/cat/en-au_au/products_071000


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to shoehorn the SR2 into a new home i think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are, willing to sell your LD V8?
Click to expand...

If you live in the UK?


----------



## wermad

Thanks guys. If I do copper, has any tried filling it with dish soap detergent, freezing it and doing bends?

If my 35x has no issue running 1/4 id acrylic tube, it might be a possibility. Found some Mettle Air fittings (3/8" od BSPP 1/4) on ebay for ~$2.50 each (sold in 10 packs). Mettle Air does make a 10mm version but its really hard to find metric acrylic tube for cheap here in the us.

Just recalled a member's awesome build and he used this Mettle Air push fittings with copper pipe. I have a few free days coming up so I'll hit the local hardware store (Home depot







).


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks guys. If I do copper, has any tried filling it with dish soap detergent, freezing it and doing bends?
> 
> If my 35x has no issue running 1/4 id acrylic tube, it might be a possibility. Found some Mettle Air fittings (3/8" od BSPP 1/4) on ebay for ~$2.50 each (sold in 10 packs). Mettle Air does make a 10mm version but its really hard to find metric acrylic tube for cheap here in the us.
> 
> Just recalled a member's awesome build and he used this Mettle Air push fittings with copper pipe. I have a few free days coming up so I'll hit the local hardware store (Home depot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


this was the fitting i was thinking off.


then add you air fittings to it, i cannot see this having any issues. ( here we go again, wait for the replys.. lol...) i think your case will be big enough to run the piping.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks guys. If I do copper, has any tried filling it with dish soap detergent, freezing it and doing bends?
> 
> If my 35x has no issue running 1/4 id acrylic tube, it might be a possibility. Found some Mettle Air fittings (3/8" od BSPP 1/4) on ebay for ~$2.50 each (sold in 10 packs). Mettle Air does make a 10mm version but its really hard to find metric acrylic tube for cheap here in the us.
> 
> Just recalled a member's awesome build and he used this Mettle Air push fittings with copper pipe. I have a few free days coming up so I'll hit the local hardware store (Home depot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Benders are cheap Werm,the amount of times you change kit it would pay for itself quickly


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Benders are cheap Werm,the amount of times you change kit it would pay for itself quickly


I just got a bender from Harbor Freight for $7. It does the job but I did have to mod it a little.


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Bitspower rotary one worked for me too


Hey man, probably never said this, but your build pretty much convinced me of buying the tiny alphacool pump









I've got it sitting in a box though (been there for way too long







). Yours is still running strong?


----------



## PCModderMike

Flashback Friday...


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Nevermind! Delete post!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Flashback Friday...


orly now?

Back to 2011 then.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/650D/22.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/650D/16.jpg.html


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> orly now?
> 
> Back to 2011 then.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/650D/22.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/650D/16.jpg.html


My man
2011 was a good year.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> My man
> 2011 was a good year.


I agree.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/SR2/103.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/SR2/SR2Stacker.jpg.html


----------



## _REAPER_

I cannot find my old pics dang it.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Circa 2011:


----------



## wermad

2011, busy with my 800D.


----------



## PCModderMike

LOL looks like everyone was busy with a Corsair case.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Not Me









A CM 690 II Advanced, with my XSPC RX240 out the back







My GTX 570's were yet to be wet.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> My man
> 2011 was a good year.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




true


----------



## erayser

My build in 2011... LOL at the 42" TV monitor...


















Still kicking in 2013...










Big changes/case mods/updates coming in 2 months...


----------



## KaRLiToS

*2010*

2 x 5850 + i7 930 (First water build so poor tube arrangement)



Added a 5870 (5870 / 5850/ 5850 ), flip the bottom radiator, and added a third radiator (480mm)



*2011*

3930k with 3 x 6970



*2012*

3930k with 4 x 7970



*2013*

Waiting for AMD HD 9000 series


----------



## MykaAurora

The sudden rush of men showing their "rigs" LOL.


----------



## DarthBeavis

Flashback pics? I have WAY too many builds to list . . .


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> Flashback pics? I have WAY too many builds to list . . .


No need, people will go  over that.


----------



## briddell

How nice are Petra's tops? I am about to buy a Swiftech MCP355 with a Petra's top, small tube res, and Bitspower d-plug on it for, for $85 shipped (among other things from the seller), and would like to know the quality of what I would be getting, and if $85 for the lot is good.


----------



## lowfat

They are among the best when it comes to performance.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Flashback Friday...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hmmm, that wasn't Too long ago.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Was able to remove the bracket. After 3 hours, a trip to the hospital, two tubes of dermabond, and a pissed off attitude, I have completed my water cooling setup. Will have pictures within the next day or so.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Was able to remove the bracket. After 3 hours, a trip to the hospital, two tubes of dermabond, and a pissed off attitude, I have completed my water cooling setup. Will have pictures within the next day or so.


You must be doing something wrong, . . . .









Bracket removal usually only requires 1 tube of Dermabond, the rest sounds about right . . . .









Hope you're OK, . . . I've had a few nasty mishaps myself, not counting cutting off my pinky with a power saw. (re-attached, but no knuckle joint)

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Was able to remove the bracket. After 3 hours, a trip to the hospital, two tubes of dermabond, and a pissed off attitude, I have completed my water cooling setup. Will have pictures within the next day or so.
> 
> 
> 
> You must be doing something wrong, . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bracket removal usually only requires *1 tube of Dermabond*, the rest sounds about right . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you're OK, . . . I've had a few nasty mishaps myself, not counting cutting off my pinky with a power saw. (re-attached, but no knuckle joint)
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Dermabond eh?

I am a advanced user of electrical tape for wounds,this Dermabond......is better? Better than the mighty cyanoacrylate?

Grrrrrr.......


----------



## Darth Scabrous

I had incorrectly measured a length of tubing, and was trying to remove it from the barb. Couldn't do it, so I attempted to remove it using my knife. Halfway through, my arm started shaking, and I sliced my thumb to the bone. Was bleeding like a stuck pig lol.


----------



## stickg1

I put a EK Supremacy on my GTX 760 and now it wont get out of 2D clocks. All the power connectors are in, anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1413346/i-installed-uni-gpu-block-on-gtx-760-now-stuck-in-2d-mode/0_30


----------



## MetallicAcid

Alrighty everyone! I would like to present to you part 1 of 2, of the final pictures for my build.




http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03074-2_zpsdaaea579.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03072-2_zpsb2e7adac.jpg.html







http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03064_zpscff37a95.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03062-2_zpsd375e47d.jpg.html










MetallicAcid


----------



## luciddreamer124

Looks fantastic! Beautiful cable management and tubing


----------



## MetallicAcid

Cheers Lucid. As you could imagine, I am very happy









MetallicAcid


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Very nice indeed MA,You going to paint the bare Alu bits?


----------



## MetallicAcid

Cheers again B Neg. I do like them bare, but if there is too much oxidization, then I will paint or anodize them.

I do think that they would look killer in matt black though









MetallicAcid


----------



## Knight091

Almost done with the computer. I made the motherboard back plate and have small things left. I am going to put corner covers on all the corners and places were panels come together.

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2541_zps629dd543.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2556_zps331a4839.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2550_zpsc775d386.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2553_zpse9b8be39.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2551_zps84a1ca6e.jpg.html

http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2557_zps658425e1.jpg.html


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> I had incorrectly measured a length of tubing, and was trying to remove it from the barb. Couldn't do it, so I attempted to remove it using my knife. Halfway through, my arm started shaking, and I sliced my thumb to the bone. Was bleeding like a stuck pig lol.


WTH man, I can't really say be careful now eh? You've already cut your thumb.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Alrighty everyone! I would like to present to you part 1 of 2, of the final pictures for my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03074-2_zpsdaaea579.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03072-2_zpsb2e7adac.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03064_zpscff37a95.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03062-2_zpsd375e47d.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


Awesome job so far...now get that gpu underwater. I will be brave and say this is a lot better then the motm rendition and it can only get better. My








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight091*
> 
> Almost done with the computer. I made the motherboard back plate and have small things left. I am going to put corner covers on all the corners and places were panels come together.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2541_zps629dd543.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2556_zps331a4839.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2550_zpsc775d386.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2553_zpse9b8be39.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2551_zps84a1ca6e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Hunter_May09/media/IMG_2557_zps658425e1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> /CENTER]


Awesome job mate







Don't forget to post in the Obsidian club:

http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-900d-800d-700d-650d-550d-club


----------



## Jeffinslaw

How would you guys go about polishing a Koolance GPU block? Got new blocks for my 7970's so I want to get the Koolance ones cleaned up and sold. Thanks!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## FriskyGrub

Storm Enforcer; The case that was never meant to be water cooled.
So this I can call "Storm Water"?

Thought I would add my first water cooling attempt (repost from the club). Most parts are 2nd hand from the FS over at OCAU. My next build will be all shiny and spanky new









My build log for this thing.

I Apologise for the pic quality, turns out my digital camera is WORSE than my phone









I cut the back out, to partially externally mount the PSU, and made a bracket from 0.5mm aluminium. This gave me heaps more room







(allowing me to push/pull the bottom 240)









That top AP181 is INSANE! (Have filters on it normally as it is intake due to the bottom rad being exhaust now.)



I am happy with the temps, here are the results after 1 Hour PRIME 95, first 15min just with prime, then for the last 45min I was running 3x15m furmark 1080p burn-in tests (with prime still running) Here are the results. (Taken on the on the last furmark run)

Shot 1

Shot 2 (Showing the prime time-line)

Cooldown (shows the 3xfurmark runs)

So max was 61°C on CPU and 41°C on the GPU (Ambient 18°C). That is with the CPU OCed to 4.4Ghz, and 100% load CPU+GPU for ~1hr and fans on "medium"
2Hrs of BF3 (Ultra 1080p) on "low" fan speed sets GPU ~ 37°C CPU ~ 45°C.

Thanks for looking!


----------



## jhaze84

^^^ Awesome build! Great job!

Here is my very first water cooling loop. Apologies for the dark pic, I will take some better ones when the loop is 100% finished. I have a GPU block on the way, but I couldn't wait so I assembled everything I had.









I already found out that I hate my bay res. It is very inconvenient to work with crammed up in that corner. More of an issue with my case than the res, but I like my case more.







So I am replacing the bay res with acrylic tank res which will sit on the floor of the case next to the HDD cage. Then I get to do my loop all over!


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> Love the colour scheme!!!
> Can't wait to see when finished.


More...


----------



## Shogon

You'll love your build even more jhaze when you get that GPU block







I remember that very day when my 580s got wet, it was very quiet haha. Did you color in the XSPC name white on your rads (if you did it looks awesome)? Or do they come like that now?

Nice job metallic







you need to stop posting pics though, you're making me want to use acrylic tubing now







(makes your red coolant stand out beautifully)

I have 1 side of the AP-15s done and ready







the other 9 fans are out drying still. Wet sanded the backplates for the GPUs (messed up on the 2nd coat), those to are drying and hoping tomorrow I can do a proper coat of yellow.


----------



## TampaChaz

Leak testing and burn in this week! I'm so excited I could pee! OOPS, too late


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Leak testing and burn in this week! I'm so excited I could pee! OOPS, too late
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Leak testing?....what?...no guts?
















Good luck and nice looking machine


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FriskyGrub*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Storm Enforcer; The case that was never meant to be water cooled.
> So this I can call "Storm Water"?
> 
> Thought I would add my first water cooling attempt (repost from the club). Most parts are 2nd hand from the FS over at OCAU. My next build will be all shiny and spanky new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build log for this thing.
> 
> I Apologise for the pic quality, turns out my digital camera is WORSE than my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the back out, to partially externally mount the PSU, and made a bracket from 0.5mm aluminium. This gave me heaps more room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (allowing me to push/pull the bottom 240)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That top AP181 is INSANE! (Have filters on it normally as it is intake due to the bottom rad being exhaust now.)
> 
> 
> 
> I am happy with the temps, here are the results after 1 Hour PRIME 95, first 15min just with prime, then for the last 45min I was running 3x15m furmark 1080p burn-in tests (with prime still running) Here are the results. (Taken on the on the last furmark run)
> 
> Shot 1
> 
> Shot 2 (Showing the prime time-line)
> 
> Cooldown (shows the 3xfurmark runs)
> 
> So max was 61°C on CPU and 41°C on the GPU (Ambient 18°C). That is with the CPU OCed to 4.4Ghz, and 100% load CPU+GPU for ~1hr and fans on "medium"
> 2Hrs of BF3 (Ultra 1080p) on "low" fan speed sets GPU ~ 37°C CPU ~ 45°C.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Awesome build man, my current build in progress is mainly made up of second hand parts from OCAU as well, link in sig









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> Love the colour scheme!!!
> Can't wait to see when finished.
> 
> 
> 
> More...
Click to expand...

Awesome build mate.

Not sure if ive asked before, but is that the uv blue tubing from koolance? Looks awesome.

Cheers


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How would you guys go about polishing a Koolance GPU block? Got new blocks for my 7970's so I want to get the Koolance ones cleaned up and sold. Thanks!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


There's a version of Brasso for nickle. Forgot the name though. Btw, they say don't use brasso, though i have seen a few applications with great results. Better to err on the side of caution. . How about some silver polish?


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Not sure if ive asked before, but is that the uv blue tubing from koolance? Looks awesome.


Just clear Primochill Advanced tube + Mayhem Dyes Ultra Deep Blue dye....


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How would you guys go about polishing a Koolance GPU block? Got new blocks for my 7970's so I want to get the Koolance ones cleaned up and sold. Thanks!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Do you have the articlean thermal paste removing kit?

The step 2 bottle works as a great polishing compound!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's a version of Brasso for nickle. Forgot the name though. Btw, they say don't use brasso, though i have seen a few applications with great results. Better to err on the side of caution. . How about some silver polish?


Ooh! Thanks! I will look into that! +rep!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Do you have the articlean thermal paste removing kit?
> 
> The step 2 bottle works as a great polishing compound!


No sir, I do not have it. I just use plain old rubbing alcohol and Q-tips. I will look into getting that as well, thanks! +rep

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I absolutely love my ArctiClean TIM removal kit. Never mount a block without it!


----------



## cyphon

I usually just use alcohol as well. I have used the 2-step compound before...personally, I don't think it does any better and it takes longer and costs more money.


----------



## wermad

I use 90% alcohol to clean the cpu block but I still have my trusty AC cleaning kit. Bottle #1 is great cleaning stuff. I use it when the alcohol really doesn't make copper shine any more. For nickel, I use alcohol and then just wipe it down and it was back to the same finish









@ Jeff, Btw, just recalled the name. Its called "Brasso Silvo"


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I use 90% alcohol to clean the cpu block but I still have my trusty AC cleaning kit. Bottle #1 is great cleaning stuff. I use it when the alcohol really doesn't make copper shine any more. For nickel, I use alcohol and then just wipe it down and it was back to the same finish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Jeff, Btw, just recalled the name. Its called "Brasso Silvo"


Thanks! Will see if anyone local has it.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## ridgey1112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7*
> 
> More...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


... I think I'm in love!!!
Fantastic build mate.
Really like the idea of the light panel.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Can you all remember to spoiler quoted pics please,this keeps the thread tidy,not everyone wants to scroll thru lots of quoted pics.

Thank you.


----------



## Kurio

Hi guys. Many nice builds here for sure. i'll post my later, its not so cool but hey


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rezidude*
> 
> First water cooled system...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats!!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

First WCed build done


----------



## Illuminati

Thought I'd share my build! It's almost done!


----------



## luciddreamer124

Love it! You should try to get the left tubing run going down from the res to the pump more vertical, I think it would look better. Other than that build looks amazing!!

Hoping to see a build log, but seeing as that was your first post, I doubt you have one







. You can always start late though haha


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Illuminati*
> 
> Thought I'd share my build! It's almost done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking amazing! but... can this be straightened?


----------



## bundymania

...up to 1° better than the normal HeGrease Compound


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Experiencing parts watercooler in the new case!





Bonus:





















My old GTZ lost the retaining screws, as he had a kit extra EK used it and it turns out it worked!


----------



## RickRockerr

Heres my build







Had little problem with soft tubing so I improvised with zipties







Im waiting for new red uv tubing and 1200w corsair power with red cables. And I have 2x 120mm monsta's because 240mm is very hard to get here :/


----------



## luciddreamer124

hahahaaa that is awesome! Those 120 monstas even look pretty good actually. I also like the sabertooth / black supremacy combo, that's what I have.


----------



## TwentyCent




----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Illuminati*
> 
> Thought I'd share my build! It's almost done!


where is this build log!!!???? i need to see more!! videos pics specs MORE I SAY!!!


----------



## Illuminati

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Looking amazing! but... can this be straightened?


Thank you!! I already thought about it, will most likely change it.


----------



## mattcube64

Welp, today I made a nice, long post to finish up my Build Log after spending the afternoon doing my final tinkering. Still a bit of work to be done here and there - but I think I can officially say _this_ is my new gaming rig:



Build Log for anyone that cares: http://www.overclock.net/t/1394229/ld-pc-v7-all-done-pics-and-specs-in-op-rivf-3820-titan-16gb-700gb-ssd-fully-wcd

Specs:

Little Devil PC-V7 in Black/Red
Asus Rampage IV Forumula
i7 3820 @ 4.6Ghz
Nvidia/EVGA Titan @ +100Mhz
16GB Corsair Vengeance @ 2333
256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD
480 OWC Mercury Extreme 6G SSD
Seasonic X750 Modular PSU w/ White/Red PsychoSleeve cables and Modright extensions
Blu-Ray Burner

Cooling:

360mm EK XTX Rad
240mm EK XTS Rad
Phobya E-Loop 16RPM fans x6
AlphaCool D5 Pump
EK X-Res Res/PumpTop combo 240
EK Supremacy CPU Block
EK Titan GPU Block
EK Titan Backplate
Primochill tube
Monsoon fittings

Temps:

Ambient: AC set to 72f, so about 22-23c

CPU: Idle @ 28c; Gaming @ 45-52c; Prime95 @ 65-72c

GPU: Idle @ 27c, Gaming @ 30-35c; Haven/FurMark/3dMark @ 34-36c


----------



## lowfat

Nice V7. Wish more people would grab that case as it is IMO the best w/c case around stock. Although I would suggest the 140mm fronts/top.


----------



## cyphon

How many feet of cable sleeve do you guys usually buy to single braid your psu cables?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> How many feet of cable sleeve do you guys usually buy to single braid your psu cables?


To do just a single 8pin + 6 pin VGA, 8 pin EPS, and 24-pin you'll need 70 feet if you make no mistakes. Add another 21 feet for each other videocard you have. Then add another 20-30 feet for the rest of your cables and mistakes. These are all assuming the cables are 18", which is pretty normal for stock cables.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> To do just a single 8pin + 6 pin VGA, 8 pin EPS, and 24-pin you'll need 70 feet if you make no mistakes. Add another 21 feet for each other videocard you have. Then add another 20-30 feet for the rest of your cables and mistakes. These are all assuming the cables are 18", which is pretty normal for stock cables.


Ok, so since I will be making mistakes, I will estimate like 200-220 ft for 2-3 gpu. Whole lotta sleeving...is that bout $100 for it all?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> How many feet of cable sleeve do you guys usually buy to single braid your psu cables?
> 
> 
> 
> To do just a single 8pin + 6 pin VGA, 8 pin EPS, and 24-pin you'll need 70 feet if you make no mistakes. Add another 21 feet for each other videocard you have. Then add another 20-30 feet for the rest of your cables and mistakes. These are all assuming the cables are 18", which is pretty normal for stock cables.
Click to expand...

Precisely this much:


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Heres my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had little problem with soft tubing so I improvised with zipties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im waiting for new red uv tubing and 1200w corsair power with red cables. And I have 2x 120mm monsta's because 240mm is very hard to get here :/


I don't know where in Finland you live but the monsta 240 and 280 is available at Jimms.fi and Aquatuning.fi. Not in stock though, but should not take more than couple of weeks.
But i like that setup too. Makes it stand out.


----------



## n3farious

My build is pretty much done. Check it out for more pics.


Water System by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr


Left Side by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr


----------



## fat_italian_stallion




----------



## bundymania

There is space for maaaany pics of pizza & pasta on that hdd farm


----------



## wermad

Was at home depot and fell in love with a spool of shiny and purrrrrrrrrrrrrrrtty copper tube









Had to force my self from not buying it


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> There is space for maaaany pics of pizza & pasta on that hdd farm


They need to get tossed for WD 4TB black drives, but laziness has taken over. The rear hdd cage takes about 3 hours to get out since I have to drain, remove multiple radiators and the res, call a buddy to hold things so I don't get crushed, and so on and so forth.

I can confirm that there is at least one picture of pizza and a few of pasta on those drives. I cannot confirm how many or of what nature.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> I don't know where in Finland you live but the monsta 240 and 280 is available at Jimms.fi and Aquatuning.fi. Not in stock though, but should not take more than couple of weeks.
> But i like that setup too. Makes it stand out.


Yep







I asked from jimms and aquatuning and the answer was that they can get 240 monsta maybe in October. And it was big maybe


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked from jimms and aquatuning and the answer was that they can get 240 monsta maybe in October. And it was big maybe


It's also very expencive to order anything from abroad, since the shipping and taxes are very high.







Guess we just have to bee patient


----------



## MetallicAcid

Hey guys. Here is some low light shots of my mod/build.









MetallicAcid


----------



## 3930sabertooth

Hi,

Would an XSPC RayStorm 750 RS240 kit work for cooling two titans? like just the cards i have a corsair 650D and though i could install an h80i for the cpu (3930K) and put the xspc kit in just for my titans with Ek blocks etc, i'm broke after the Titans mobo upgrade etc, just want these titans under water already.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey guys. Here is some low light shots of my mod/build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


Looking good


----------



## Brulf

New build finally finished, potato shot i know but i only have a phone


----------



## MetallicAcid

Cheers Rick!









MetallicAcid


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930sabertooth*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Would an XSPC RayStorm 750 RS240 kit work for cooling two titans? like just the cards i have a corsair 650D and though i could install an h80i for the cpu (3930K) and put the xspc kit in just for my titans with Ek blocks etc, i'm broke after the Titans mobo upgrade etc, just want these titans under water already.


The combined max power consumtion of 2 titans is a lot more than the heat dissipation of a 240mm radiator. 2 240mm radiators would be my recommendation.
Pro watercoolers can correct me if i'm wrong


----------



## friskiest

A couple of shots of the htpc airbox


----------



## Juthos

Original backplate:



actual versions


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930sabertooth*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Would an XSPC RayStorm 750 RS240 kit work for cooling two titans? like just the cards i have a corsair 650D and though i could install an h80i for the cpu (3930K) and put the xspc kit in just for my titans with Ek blocks etc, i'm broke after the Titans mobo upgrade etc, just want these titans under water already.
> 
> 
> 
> The combined max power consumtion of 2 titans is a lot more than the heat dissipation of a 240mm radiator. 2 240mm radiators would be my recommendation.
> Pro watercoolers can correct me if i'm wrong
Click to expand...

It will be okay to use a 240 for 2 titans,it would be preferable to have a 360 in there tho.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930sabertooth*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Would an XSPC RayStorm 750 RS240 kit work for cooling two titans? like just the cards i have a corsair 650D and though i could install an h80i for the cpu (3930K) and put the xspc kit in just for my titans with Ek blocks etc, i'm broke after the Titans mobo upgrade etc, just want these titans under water already.
> 
> 
> 
> The combined max power consumtion of 2 titans is a lot more than the heat dissipation of a 240mm radiator. 2 240mm radiators would be my recommendation.
> Pro watercoolers can correct me if i'm wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It will be okay to use a 240 for 2 titans,it would be preferable to have a 360 in there tho.
Click to expand...

According to my personal experience, it's not the rad who's the problem, but the pump. I have a a 240mm Kit with the *non*-D5 pump (whatever it is) to cool a FX-8350 (until my VRM died, now cooling a phenom) and there's a point where upping the fan speed doesn't do anything. So two titans... You'll definitely need a D5 or better solution.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey guys. Here is some low light shots of my mod/build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


Seems like you've been playing too much Deus Ex mate. But I don't blame you, Deus Ex better than sex.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey guys. Here is some low light shots of my mod/build.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


What block has those traces? Or did you make em? and if so, how did you make em? etching?


----------



## derickwm




----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Seems like you've been playing too much Deus Ex mate. But I don't blame you, Deus Ex better than sex.


Deus EX was one of the greatest games







But I have not played that game for years







It is a shame that the most recent one didn't live up to my high expectations.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What block has those traces? Or did you make em? and if so, how did you make em? etching?


Hey cyphon. All of the plates are custom made







I plotted the line out on the plate, drilled holes at each turn, then used a coping saw to cut from hole to hole. I then took needle files and straightened out each line... It was alot of work









MetallicAcid


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey guys. Here is some low light shots of my mod/build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like you've been playing too much Deus Ex mate. But I don't blame you, *Deus Ex better than sex*.
Click to expand...

You are doing it wrong.....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Deus EX was one of the greatest games
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I have not played that game for years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a shame that the most recent one didn't live up to my high expectations.
> Hey cyphon. All of the plates are custom made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plotted the line out on the plate, drilled holes at each turn, then used a coping saw to cut from hole to hole. I then took needle files and straightened out each line... It was alot of work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


Didang.....great work!

I do not have the space nor am I coordinated to do all of that, lol

Thinking El Tape could be an alternative for a similar effect???


----------



## ASO7

more !


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Didang.....great work!
> 
> I do not have the space nor am I coordinated to do all of that, lol
> 
> Thinking El Tape could be an alternative for a similar effect???


El tape would be the best as the lighting would be even across each line. But the picking are slim when it comes to El tape here in Sweden









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7*
> 
> more !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is one sweet build you have there, and great photography to boot!

MetallicAcid


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> more !


Is it me or is that res leaning a bit precariously to the right >.>?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7*
> 
> more !


I like the wall of light!


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Is it me or is that res leaning a bit precariously to the right >.>?


Yes, i had some problems and i can only use the top holder, i'll fix it ASAP....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I like the wall of light!


Me too








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> That is one sweet build you have there, and great photography to boot!


Thanks ! your's is also a great build.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Those blocks look a bit too short..


----------



## kcuestag

Recent picture after installing the Watercool backplates on my GPU's and Bitfenix (Alchemy) white sleeved extensions:



Next step: Replace all fittings for Bitspower (And reduce tubing size from 19/13mm to 16/11mm), clear tubing (Primochill Advanced LRT 16/11), and Mayhems Pastel White.









Only problem? The Bitspower fittings are going to cost me as much as a new HD7970.









PS: I also forgot, I want to cover my PSU so that the "rainbow" cables aren't visible.


----------



## cyphon

Good God that Alphacool Monsta rad is quite literally a monster......................................

Hope you got push/pull on that thing, as well as some jet turbines to get air through it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Good God that Alphacool Monsta rad is quite literally a monster......................................
> 
> Hope you got push/pull on that thing, as well as some jet turbines to get air through it


I had three 480mm in push/pull. Required a massive case







. Wouldn't fit in my 900D properly so I sold em all


----------



## Shogon

Must stop frequenting this thread ( while my PC is down) lol.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Good God that Alphacool Monsta rad is quite literally a monster......................................
> 
> Hope you got push/pull on that thing, as well as some jet turbines to get air through it


It's in pull mode, only 2 AP-15 fans at ~1400RPM, this is way less restrictive than my old HWLabs Black Ice GTS240, lower fan speed and I get better temps than old rad at much higher speed, this thing doesn't need push/pull.


----------



## sebar

I did some copper tube bending today.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I did some copper tube bending today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's look really sweet! I like it!


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Must stop frequenting this thread ( while my PC is down) lol.


I tried that once, then I came back to some 400 unread posts.


----------



## fakeblood

swapped out my Orange Mayhems dye as it kept turning redish pink! so have jumped back to Ice Dragon.

Made a few changes to the loop/system overall also

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mo...6-4900-a58b-13916f33d005_zps64c3f668.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mo...f-4665-8c2a-2b29e5e00b13_zps8da7bd67.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mo...8-4497-a52a-c7cec0505ee2_zps8aeeb64d.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mo...5-477b-89cf-dbac1fa8ad8c_zps8e075775.jpg.html


----------



## stickg1

What fittings and size copper pipe do you guys use?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Recent picture after installing the Watercool backplates on my GPU's and Bitfenix (Alchemy) white sleeved extensions:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step: Replace all fittings for Bitspower (And reduce tubing size from 19/13mm to 16/11mm), clear tubing (Primochill Advanced LRT 16/11), and Mayhems Pastel White.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only problem? *The Bitspower fittings are going to cost me as much as a new HD7970.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I also forgot, I want to cover my PSU so that the "rainbow" cables aren't visible.


I wouldn't say that. I did my entire rig with BP fittings (dual/triple rotaries, compressions, crystal links, extensions, etc) and bought enough to have leftovers and only spent about $250 on them brand new....


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What fittings and size copper pipe do you guys use?


Check this thread out. Super helpful info and if the answer isn't there you can always ask


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Must stop frequenting this thread ( while my PC is down) lol.


Good gosh me to my M5G went and took my 3570k with it, so I'm stuck on my socket 775/linux box. Tho DOTA2 does play pretty nice on linux.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are doing it wrong.....






I don't think we should get into that B Neg... I'm not sure what he's doing..?


----------



## wermad

If you don't mind a nickel (or black nickel) finish, ek has 12mm and 16mm od fittings for about the same as the BP in cost. Other then that, Primochill fittings are imperial but you have a slew of colors and acrylic tube colors to choose from and they're priced between the ek and the BP.


----------



## ajs89

just bought new xspc raystorm,im very glad with its performance







running full load @4.0ghz at 45-47C


----------



## Rayleyne

My new 540 air build


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajs89*
> 
> just bought new xspc raystorm,im very glad with its performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> running full load @4.0ghz at 45-47C
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build, I really like that tubing.


----------



## ajs89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nice build, I really like that tubing.


thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> 
> 
> My new 540 air build


That came out pretty nicely. I think the inlet to your pump/ water block though is on the bottom. Did you have any issues bleeding or priming your pump?


----------



## zmegati

Greeting.

Once I have made my post with a few questions and asking for help but no one said nothing...Please help me

I have XFX7970 CORE EDITION and I need to take a water cooler for it but do not know which, and for CPU AM3+

Please give me a help!!!


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I did some copper tube bending today.


Nice bends









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I tried that once, then I came back to some 400 unread posts.


It's a vicious cycle this is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomad692000*
> 
> Good gosh me to my M5G went and took my 3570k with it, so I'm stuck on my socket 775/linux box. Tho DOTA2 does play pretty nice on linux.


I'm about to download steam on my laptop (i5 450/HD 5470) so I can play something haha. Both desktops are in pieces and my HTPC only has a G1610 so..


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Greeting.
> 
> Once I have made my post with a few questions and asking for help but no one said nothing...Please help me
> 
> I have XFX7970 CORE EDITION and I need to take a water cooler for it but do not know which, and for CPU AM3+
> 
> Please give me a help!!!


If you dont get help here, just make a thread, chances are your post gets lost in between all of this discussion


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Greeting.
> 
> Once I have made my post with a few questions and asking for help but no one said nothing...Please help me
> 
> I have XFX7970 CORE EDITION and I need to take a water cooler for it but do not know which, and for CPU AM3+
> 
> Please give me a help!!!


This might be useful to you.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.ekwb.com/uploads/images/xfx7970_fx-797a-tdbc.JPG&imgrefurl=http://www.ekwb.com/news/233/19/New-revision-od-XFX-7970-cards-brings-compatibility-issues/&usg=__RLR1lJ5aDayqWD_8PMhoy-454Zo=&h=473&w=1024&sz=422&hl=en&start=2&sig2=14hjqvOHASCP7Mo4V5BVSg&zoom=1&tbnid=hPoJq9Su1-2PEM:&tbnh=69&tbnw=150&ei=7dr3UcySN6K6igL22oDwDQ&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dxfx%2B7970%2Bwaterblock%26sa%3DX%26hl%3Den%26gbv%3D2%26tbm%3Disch&itbs=1&sa=X&ved=0CC4QrQMwAQ


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Greeting.
> 
> Once I have made my post with a few questions and asking for help but no one said nothing...Please help me
> 
> I have XFX7970 CORE EDITION and I need to take a water cooler for it but do not know which, and for CPU AM3+
> 
> Please give me a help!!!


This article by EKWB will get you informed: http://www.ekwb.com/news/233/19/New-revision-od-XFX-7970-cards-brings-compatibility-issues/

XFX changed their PCB layout unannounced a couple months ago, leaving most people with XFX "reference" cards, unable to use reference 7970 waterblocks. You'll have to verify which XFX card you have (EK explains how to do this in the article above). There is currently only ONE waterblock on the market that fit's these video cards: LINK

As for the AM3+ waterblock, I would recommend an EK Supremacy, but if you want to stick with the Heatkiller theme, HERE is their waterblock that debatably performs just as well. Yes, it will fit socket AM3+.


----------



## wermad

Any one know of a discount code for ekwb.com? Looking to place a small order from them


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one know of a discount code for ekwb.com? Looking to place a small order from them


PM Derick or i can ask him now on FB?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PM Derick or i can ask him now on FB?


I will have an order for several (at least 4) blocks from EK in the coming months as I can afford to purchase them as well.


----------



## TampaChaz

I had a really crazy thought. Wouldn't it be awesome for Nvidia to release two versions of the most popular video cards - One for air cooling that has all the fans, additonal blower housings, etc and One that is just the bare card for those of us that watercool? Keeping boxes of unused fans and blower housings shelved so that I can revert them to air cooling or resell them used with the watercooling blocks AND air cooling components gets a bit annoying. The reduction in wasted plastics and electronics would save NVidia a sizeable amount of resources and they could offer the cards at a slightly reduced cost due to less man hours to assemble the units and less component resources used. We could save money (which we always spend on MORE geek toys) and Nvidia could reduce some of their resource overhead...win, win....right? It'll NEVER happen LOL


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I did some copper tube bending today.


Masterpiece.

What benders are you using?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I had a really crazy thought. Wouldn't it be awesome for Nvidia to release two versions of the most popular video cards - One for air cooling that has all the fans, additonal blower housings, etc and One that is just the bare card for those of us that watercool? Keeping boxes of unused fans and blower housings shelved so that I can revert them to air cooling or resell them used with the watercooling blocks AND air cooling components gets a bit annoying. The reduction in wasted plastics and electronics would save NVidia a sizeable amount of resources and they could offer the cards at a slightly reduced cost due to less man hours to assemble the units and less component resources used. We could save money (which we always spend on MORE geek toys) and Nvidia could reduce some of their resource overhead...win, win....right? It'll NEVER happen LOL


Would be nice...chances are that the fans/shrouds are only like 1/5th or less of the cost to make them, however. The disruption in flow and additional packaging for the two versions and number of returns/support cases from people purchasing the wrong ones would cost them more than they would save......

A man can dream though....a man can dream......


----------



## Shogon

backplates!

getting ready for fans, and plexiglass ( still need to get some carbide bits )
round 2 on painting

He wants to help


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Would be nice...chances are that the fans/shrouds are only like 1/5th or less of the cost to make them, however. The disruption in flow and additional packaging for the two versions and number of returns/support cases from people purchasing the wrong ones would cost them more than they would save......
> 
> A man can dream though....a man can dream......


^This. It would also be a logisitical nightmare for the companies who resell nVidia products.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Would be nice...chances are that the fans/shrouds are only like 1/5th or less of the cost to make them, however. The disruption in flow and additional packaging for the two versions and number of returns/support cases from people purchasing the wrong ones would cost them more than they would save......
> 
> A man can dream though....a man can dream......


To put the cost of shrouds in perspective, the GTX 690 is still listed online by a major UK retailer at £823. The shroud/fan/superstructures were listed on ebay New OEM at £20 a couple of months ago. I am thinking of putting mine on a base (I nearly said mounting it







) and displaying it on the mantlepiece.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I had a really crazy thought. Wouldn't it be awesome for Nvidia to release two versions of the most popular video cards - One for air cooling that has all the fans, additonal blower housings, etc and One that is just the bare card for those of us that watercool? Keeping boxes of unused fans and blower housings shelved so that I can revert them to air cooling or resell them used with the watercooling blocks AND air cooling components gets a bit annoying. The reduction in wasted plastics and electronics would save NVidia a sizeable amount of resources and they could offer the cards at a slightly reduced cost due to less man hours to assemble the units and less component resources used. We could save money (which we always spend on MORE geek toys) and Nvidia could reduce some of their resource overhead...win, win....right? It'll NEVER happen LOL


Think of how many RMA's they would get for botched block mounts,they wouldnt be able to guarantee anything as the block would be user mounted and they consider this high risk,especially as the said block will not be manufactured by Nvidia/AMD. EVGA are your best bet for watercooling cards as they allow blocks to be used without voiding anything,there are others for AMD too.

Watercooling is a fringe activity,GPU's in general are not.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PM Derick or i can ask him now on FB?


Thanks









See you in the acrylic thread









+1


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Masterpiece.
> 
> What benders are you using?


I am using these. http://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html
I had to modify them a little so that they would not mar the finish of the copper tube.


----------



## Michalius

Not too worried about the finish as I'm painting all of my pipes.

Worth a shot at least.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Think of how many RMA's they would get for botched block mounts,they wouldnt be able to guarantee anything as the block would be user mounted and they consider this high risk,especially as the said block will not be manufactured by Nvidia/AMD. EVGA are your best bet for watercooling cards as they allow blocks to be used without voiding anything,there are others for AMD too.
> 
> Watercooling is a fringe activity,GPU's in general are not.


i know.....I'm a hardware technician for Dell in my day job.....as I said, it was a CRAZY thought. It would be a nightmare for the manufacturers. It just seems like such a waste of materials and resources. Also thought about "what if" they had a buy back program for those of us that remove and never use the air cooling portions, but again, they would be saying it's ok to remove the factory installed components which goes against MOST warranty agreements
AS I said early...a guy can dream LOL


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> i know.....I'm a hardware technician for Dell in my day job.....as I said, it was a CRAZY thought. It would be a nightmare for the manufacturers. It just seems like such a waste of materials and resources. Also thought about "what if" they had a buy back program for those of us that remove and never use the air cooling portions, but again, they would be saying it's ok to remove the factory installed components which goes against MOST warranty agreements
> AS I said early...a guy can dream LOL


Perhaps a more sane idea from them would be to sell a version with water blocks already installed. Still though, I think it disrupts too many things for such a small share of the market, lol. Also, we all wanna pick and choose our blocks and would probably rip theirs off and put on another vendor's anyway......so problem not solved :/

Plus: Can you imagine, now you gotta match the heat sink colors on the mobo, to the undoubtedly awful green, blue, or orange schemes they would put on the GPUs, to the coolant and lighting you want, lol....once again, everything is probably getting the ax, haha


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That came out pretty nicely. I think the inlet to your pump/ water block though is on the bottom. Did you have any issues bleeding or priming your pump?


It's actually my second pump (The Drive 2 that is) My main is an XSPC X2O 720 on the otherside, Had to tilt the case on it's side but ultimatly it took only a few minutes to get all the air our and it was up and running.


----------



## Pheozero

How would I go about bleeding this bay res? Leave the cap off while cycling the power switch? I'm talking about bleeding this one specifically.


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> How would I go about bleeding this bay res? Leave the cap off while cycling the power switch? I'm talking about bleeding this one specifically.


Thats what i use, Get a funnel and a bottle full of water, Turn the pump on and just keep pouring, It'll bleed itself in a few moments.


----------



## Michalius

Yeah, that does bleed really quickly compared to the other pump/res's I've had. Good unit.


----------



## Pheozero

Thanks guys.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Perhaps a more sane idea from them would be to sell a version with water blocks already installed. Still though, I think it disrupts too many things for such a small share of the market, lol. Also, we all wanna pick and choose our blocks and would probably rip theirs off and put on another vendor's anyway......so problem not solved :/
> 
> Plus: Can you imagine, now you gotta match the heat sink colors on the mobo, to the undoubtedly awful green, blue, or orange schemes they would put on the GPUs, to the coolant and lighting you want, lol....once again, everything is probably getting the ax, haha


This already exists. EVGA teamed with Swiftech to make the hydro-copper series.

Example:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19538/ex-vga-27/EVGA_GeForce_GTX_TITAN_HydroCopper_Signature_SLI_Ready_Graphics_Card_06G-P4-2795-KR.html?tl=g56c559s1729


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> This already exists. EVGA teamed with Swiftech to make the hydro-copper series.
> 
> Example:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19538/ex-vga-27/EVGA_GeForce_GTX_TITAN_HydroCopper_Signature_SLI_Ready_Graphics_Card_06G-P4-2795-KR.html?tl=g56c559s1729


but from what ive read, the hydrocopper doesnt do a very good job especially for the amount of money evga charges.


----------



## Rayleyne

zzzz my sabertooth z77 is dead, Again, God i hate this board and can't wait for my p8z77 ws to get here.


----------



## Rayleyne

zzzz my sabertooth z77 is dead, Again, God i hate this board and can't wait for my p8z77 ws to get here.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> zzzz my sabertooth z77 is dead, Again, God i hate this board and can't wait for my p8z77 ws to get here.


I have had nothing but problems with the last 2 Sabertooth boards i have used for customer builds,they are on my 'do not bother to use' list now.


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> i know.....I'm a hardware technician for Dell in my day job.....as I said, it was a CRAZY thought. It would be a nightmare for the manufacturers. It just seems like such a waste of materials and resources. Also thought about "what if" they had a buy back program for those of us that remove and never use the air cooling portions, but again, they would be saying it's ok to remove the factory installed components which goes against MOST warranty agreements
> AS I said early...a guy can dream LOL


why cant the manufacturers get together like ford and Cosworth or Austin mini and cooper. just think Nvidia supply's EK with bear card and then EK fits the block for a small fee and then is just a choice of water or air with a nvidia / EK Warranty that keeps all party's happy


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> why cant the manufacturers get together like ford and Cosworth or Austin mini and cooper. just think Nvidia supply's EK with bear card and then EK fits the block for a small fee and then is just a choice of water or air with a nvidia / EK Warranty that keeps all party's happy


Powercolour LCS
http://www.powercolor.com/au/products_features.asp?id=394

http://www.powercolor.com/au/techzone.asp?id=48

EK waterblock on a factory card. Its been done before and no doubt will again, its just a very small market for the card makers.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> but from what ive read, the hydrocopper doesnt do a very good job especially for the amount of money evga charges.


Does it matter? That wasn't the issue at hand. The issue was whether or not companies should or should not do it; and EVGA does. You will always save money by doing it yourself, at least in this hobby.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> why cant the manufacturers get together like ford and Cosworth or Austin mini and cooper. just think Nvidia supply's EK with bear card and then EK fits the block for a small fee and then is just a choice of water or air with a nvidia / EK Warranty that keeps all party's happy


Once again, this exists. FrozenCPU offers this service to all their customers for both EK Waterblocks and Heatkiller Waterblocks on the high-end nVidia cards. It's too much of a logistical and financial nightmare for a company like nVidia or AMD to offer this, nor do they have interest, so they leave it to the distributors instead. And like Jakuson said, it's just too small of a market. Computer enthusiasts like us are a minority market.

LINK for proof


----------



## scouter238

my build that took forever


----------



## flamin9_t00l

My latest creation









Rig now housed in the beauty that is the Obsidian 900D.







Need a new camera, lens must have gone wonky... took about 15 and only 5 were worth keeping

EDIT: Just made the finishing touches, a couple of white cold cathodes (top and rear).

Respect to all you guys out there who get involved in the PC and watercooling hobby







some truly epic builds in this thread and I haven't seen half of them.

Expensive taste we have but very satisfying.


----------



## Ishinomori

Anyone had a look at how the LED's look on the Hydrocopper when changed to blue?

I've heard that it is just a setting in Precision.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Coming soon......


----------



## ginger_nuts

What sizes are they B neg?

120 or 140mm?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coming soon......


Interested...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Coming soon......


Any specs on those? All CU i imagine. FPI? I like the access on all side of the tank a-la Alphacool, even on the opposite side.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What sizes are they B neg?
> 
> 120 or 140mm?


120's going all the way up to 600mm

Brass/Copper construction like all the others on the market.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Can't imagine how overpriced these will be.


----------



## Botanica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Coming soon......


Looks like a HWL SR1 + Alpha monsta's combined.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What sizes are they B neg?
> 
> 120 or 140mm?
> 
> 
> 
> 120's going all the way up to 600mm
> 
> Brass/Copper construction like all the others on the market.
Click to expand...

Are the chambers CU?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Can't imagine how overpriced these will be.


but but....
it has the dragon logo on the radiator.....


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Can't imagine how overpriced these will be.
> 
> 
> 
> but but....
> it has the dragon logo on the radiator.....
Click to expand...

Yeah , but those tanks look really cool!


----------



## RickRockerr

I was looking ek supremacy jet plates and wondered how big temp difference will be if use jet plate that is not optimized for your cpu


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I was looking ek supremacy jet plates and wondered how big temp difference will be if use jet plate that is not optimized for your cpu


what now ?

Are you saying that depending on CPU I should use different jet plates  ? I hesitated trying the one with the most slits but ending up just using the stock one. Sorry I can't answer your question but do you know which one I should use with an i7-860 ?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> what now ?
> 
> Are you saying that depending on CPU I should use different jet plates  ? I hesitated trying the one with the most slits but ending up just using the stock one. Sorry I can't answer your question but do you know which one I should use with an i7-860 ?


lol its in the instruction guide
unless you never read it, dont know the temp difference but its there for a reason
I changed it straight away


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> lol its in the instruction guide
> unless you never read it, dont know the temp difference but its there for a reason
> I changed it straight away


Never had the instruction guide. My block was bought second hand







.
I'm off to find the .pdf version for it !


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> why cant the manufacturers get together like ford and Cosworth or Austin mini and cooper. just think Nvidia supply's EK with bear card and then EK fits the block for a small fee and then is just a choice of water or air with a nvidia / EK Warranty that keeps all party's happy


Yea right EK is too stuck up to do something like that.


----------



## steelkevin

Only instruction I could find was this:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990228.pdf

And it doesn't mention anything about which jet plate should be used. Plus the stock jet plate is the one with the 4 slits and on their picture it's the 6 slit one. That's not the only thing wrong with that .pdf too... the easy mount system didn't come with those old blocks (unless there was a revision model with it bundled).

Would somebody be kind enough to do EK's job and upload the instruction guide







?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> why cant the manufacturers get together like ford and Cosworth or Austin mini and cooper. just think Nvidia supply's EK with bear card and then EK fits the block for a small fee and then is just a choice of water or air with a nvidia / EK Warranty that keeps all party's happy
> 
> 
> 
> Yea right EK is too stuck up to do something like that.
Click to expand...

Please describe to me how we are stuck up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Only instruction I could find was this:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990228.pdf
> 
> And it doesn't mention anything about which jet plate should be used. Plus the stock jet plate is the one with the 4 slits and on their picture it's the 6 slit one. That's not the only thing wrong with that .pdf too... the easy mount system didn't come with those old blocks (unless there was a revision model with it bundled).
> 
> Would somebody be kind enough to do EK's job and upload the instruction guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


What exactly are you looking for? An instructional guide how to change the jet plates or one that describes which is better for each CPU?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I was looking ek supremacy jet plates and wondered how big temp difference will be if use jet plate that is not optimized for your cpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what now ?
> 
> Are you saying that depending on CPU I should use different jet plates  ? I hesitated trying the one with the most slits but ending up just using the stock one. Sorry I can't answer your question but do you know which one I should use with an i7-860 ?
Click to expand...

It;s not the CPU that it's optimized for , but the amount of restriction ( or lack of ) for the system.

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=843853&mpage=1


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea right EK is too stuck up to do something like that.


I would have to personally disagree with that. My personal interactions with the crew at EK have been very pleasant. I get rather quick responses to questions and have never been made to feel inferior or a bother to the team. Again, this is just MY personal experience and others may have had less than ideal experiences with them.
I will remind everyone of the same often overlooked fact that I tell my support team at work all the time........the people you deal with are not all from the same geographical location and therefore, their verbiage, and conduct can be misread as something completely different than what is intended. Being based in the U.S., my guys have a bad habit of expecting everyone to respond to them like a fellow American. As with EK, being headquartered in Slovenia, many of our clients are across the pond and have different customs, sayings, and modes of business etiquette. I try my hardest to keep this in mind, especially when dealing with a frustrated German IT director.....they can be seriously brutal!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea right EK is too stuck up to do something like that.
> 
> 
> 
> I would have to personally disagree with that. My personal interactions with the crew at EK have been very pleasant. I get rather quick responses to questions and have never been made to feel inferior or a bother to the team. Again, this is just MY personal experience and others may have had less than ideal experiences with them.
> I will remind everyone of the same often overlooked fact that I tell my support team at work all the time........the people you deal with are not all from the same geographical location and therefore, their verbiage, and conduct can be misread as something completely different than what is intended. Being based in the U.S., my guys have a bad habit of expecting everyone to respond to them like a fellow American. As with EK, being headquartered in Slovenia, many of our clients are across the pond and have different customs, sayings, and modes of business etiquette. I try my hardest to keep this in mind, especially when dealing with a frustrated German IT director.....they can be seriously brutal!
Click to expand...

Wish everyone had this mindset









I took an international management course a while back and it was really interesting to learn about all the different business customs from different countries around the globe.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Can't imagine how overpriced these will be.


Lol I was going to say this exact same thing


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What exactly are you looking for? An instructional guide how to change the jet plates or one that describes which is better for each CPU?


I don't know. I was just told that the block came with different jet plates for a reason and that the one that was mounted initially isn't necessarily adapted to my CPU. I'm still confused myself.
And I saw a youtube video while looking for said instructions in which somebody unboxed the same block as mine and I noticed said instruction guide and there was a picture of all the jetplates in the middle. I guess that's the manual I'm looking for.
If you don't have it it doesn't really matter I guess.

Being an EK employee could you explain the purpose of having different jet plates and the consequences of not using the "right" one (I'm still not sure there even is a "right" one). I've got an i7-860 if that makes any odds







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> It;s not the CPU that it's optimized for , but the amount of restriction ( or lack of ) for the system.
> 
> http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=843853&mpage=1


I really don't know anything about the jet plates. I was just going by what somebody said on the previous page







.
How do you decide which one to use then ? All my water cooling loop parts are in my signature if that helps


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Wish everyone had this mindset
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took an international management course a while back and it was really interesting to learn about all the different business customs from different countries around the globe.


I'm a Level 3 Technical Support Supervisor for Dell, supporting Federal and Military Workstation systems. This means I have to deal with end users, field techs and IT support "professionals" on a Global basis. Not surprisingly, the most difficult individuals come from right here in the Americas. We have such an "entitled" perspective that is refreshingly absent in other cultures


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What exactly are you looking for? An instructional guide how to change the jet plates or one that describes which is better for each CPU?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know. I was just told that the block came with different jet plates for a reason and that the one that was mounted initially isn't necessarily adapted to my CPU. I'm still confused myself.
> And I saw a youtube video while looking for said instructions in which somebody unboxed the same block as mine and I noticed said instruction guide and there was a picture of all the jetplates in the middle. I guess that's the manual I'm looking for.
> If you don't have it it doesn't really matter I guess.
> 
> Being an EK employee could you explain the purpose of having different jet plates and the consequences of not using the "right" one (I'm still not sure there even is a "right" one). I've got an i7-860 if that makes any odds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> It;s not the CPU that it's optimized for , but the amount of restriction ( or lack of ) for the system.
> 
> http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=843853&mpage=1
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I really don't know anything about the jet plates. I was just going by what somebody said on the previous page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> How do you decide which one to use then ? All my water cooling loop parts are in my signature if that helps
Click to expand...

For the vast majority the the standard plate (#2 now I think) yields the best performance. The one that provides The optimum flow/amount of restriction. An example of using a different plate might be if you use a MB block or Ram block that can mess up the flow of your cooling system.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> why cant the manufacturers get together like ford and Cosworth or Austin mini and cooper. just think Nvidia supply's EK with bear card and then EK fits the block for a small fee and then is just a choice of water or air with a nvidia / EK Warranty that keeps all party's happy
> 
> 
> 
> Yea right EK is too stuck up to do something like that.
Click to expand...

EK are not stuck up,at least any dealings i have had with them have been ok,the only time i have seen anything less than professional was around the plating debacle and that was Eddy himself and that was partly language barrier.

Watercool (Who i like very much) are much more snobby than EK....the only way to get a drink out of Watercool is stick a finger down their throats.


----------



## derickwm

EK-Supreme HF Installation.pdf 802k .pdf file


Different generation CPUs have different core layouts usually and slight adjustments via jetplates can help lower temps. See below.

With LGA2011










With Ivy Bridge:










The EK Supreme HF was already phased out when I started working here so I'm not 100% sure which jet plate is best for it, but I believe it was Jet Plate 1. In the end, it's not completely necessary to have the best one, they all work just fine.

Attached is the manual you're looking for I believe.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> For the vast majority the the standard plate (#2 now I think) yields the best performance. The one that provides The optimum flow/amount of restriction. An example of using a different plate might be if you use a MB block or Ram block that can mess up the flow of your cooling system.


Ok... I won't ask why just using the jet plate with the maximum flow wouldn't be the best option because I feel it'll get complicated and if I can avoid a headache I will







.
Well the plate in all the .pdfs I can find is the one with the most slits / channels. Mine had the four slits / channels one pre-installed.

What I'm really asking here is how important would the temp difference be between one jet plate and another ?
If it's not much then that's it, I won't bother









EDIT: just saw your post derick. Will read it right now. Headache incoming








. Thanks a lot for helping
EDIT: That was exactly the manual I was looking for thanks a lot







.
So the first graph shows that it doesn't really make much of a difference on 2011 CPUs and the second that it doesn't really matter on Ivy Bridge CPUs either. That's all the information I need thanks again







.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

This is jjust my personal opinion from a past experience with the company. I cannot comment on how they handle their customer service now adays, but I was scared away a little while back. This was probably an isolated incident and I'm sure that their customer service is great, but that's not what I experienced. I apologize for my statement and I don't want to make EK out to be a horrible company because I'm sure they are not. Again, sorry for that statement. I should have been more clear when I wrote it. That being said, I do own some EK products and they are great performers.


----------



## Jameswalt1

I'm sure it was an isolated incident. My interactions with them has been nothing short of stellar. Extremely helpful customer service and very cool about sharing peoples builds on their social media sites, both big builds and small builds. They shared photos of my build several times with kind words as they do with all of them. They obviously love what they do and I'm sure that's why the end product is so good. No company is perfect and from time to time every company has a situation that may have been handed poorly, but chances are they acknowledge it and use the rare bad handling to learn from it and handle a future similar situation better.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> For the vast majority the the standard plate (#2 now I think) yields the best performance. The one that provides The optimum flow/amount of restriction. An example of using a different plate might be if you use a MB block or Ram block that can mess up the flow of your cooling system.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok... I won't ask why just using the jet plate with the maximum flow wouldn't be the best option because I feel it'll get complicated and if I can avoid a headache I will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Well the plate in all the .pdfs I can find is the one with the most slits / channels. Mine had the four slits / channels one pre-installed.
> 
> What I'm really asking here is how important would the temp difference be between one jet plate and another ?
> If it's not much then that's it, I won't bother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: just saw your post derick. Will read it right now. Headache incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks a lot for helping
> EDIT: That was exactly the manual I was looking for thanks a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> So the first graph shows that it doesn't really make much of a difference on 2011 CPUs and the second that it doesn't really matter on Ivy Bridge CPUs either. That's all the information I need thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Here is the problem with this scenario.
I have seen reviews/and the charting of them and what they leave out is the rest of the setup. the choice of rad, pump, pump speed and the head pressure and flow of the pump at different speeds. Change the parameters and the Koolance 370 R1.1 comes out on top, Change one of the above factors and the EK supreme does, etc etc. I have also tried many blocks and pump/flow scenarios myself and the effectiveness can be changed by many factors.
The bes way is to do the legwork and try different combinations of jet plates, pumps, pump speeds and restrictiveness to see what works best. As an example I did this with my 8350 and my 3770 and ended up using the Koolance 370 R1.1 for my systems, but that may not be the best for your setup depending on the fluid dynamics and behavior of your set of components.
Good luck with the build


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Of courseyou haven't had a problem with EK JamesWalt, look at your build!!! LOL JK

I'm sure EK kisses the ground you walk on haha


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Coming soon......


5x120mm Dang it. I'm buying that shiet.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey guys.. need to extend some wiring. Anyone know what gauge wire is used for standard power switches? Using the tj07 talking about the HDD led and power sw the connectors that have the dupont end.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Hey guys.. need to extend some wiring. Anyone know what gauge wire is used for standard power switches? Using the tj07 talking about the HDD led and power sw the connectors that have the dupont end.


22g will work.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm sure it was an isolated incident. My interactions with them has been nothing short of stellar. Extremely helpful customer service and very cool about sharing peoples builds on their social media sites, both big builds and small builds. They shared photos of my build several times with kind words as they do with all of them. They obviously love what they do and I'm sure that's why the end product is so good. No company is perfect and from time to time every company has a situation that may have been handed poorly, but chances are they acknowledge it and use the rare bad handling to learn from it and handle a future similar situation better.


I had a recent interaction with EK support and it was very pleasant. In short I had ordered the quad SLI link block for my GTX770's and the package did not include the mounting hardware (missing 7 out of 8 gaskets and 11 out of 12 screws). The rep was very apologetic and offered to express mail the missing hardware.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 22g will work.


Thx as always.. connectors easy to take off pop on? I didnt look at it last night.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Anyone had a look at how the LED's look on the Hydrocopper when changed to blue?
> 
> I've heard that it is just a setting in Precision.


Not a hydrocopper but close enough!







And not blue, but maybe you could use your imagination!













Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea right EK is too stuck up to do something like that.


You couldn't be more incorrect.

I've had the pleasure of meeting the owner of EK himself, and he is not only kind and funny, but a pleasure to talk to. I have always recommended EK products, and always will because they not only value their customers (they have a representative on forums), but maintain a high level of quality at the same time. EK is almost always the first to come out with new VGA blocks, CPU blocks, and are constantly changing designs based on their customers preferences (example: they got rid of CSQ and switched to a cleaner design, but still offer CSQ to those who prefer it).

EDIT: Saw your post on the last page, and completely understand where you're coming from as well. Although companies like EK try really hard to keep customer service at a high level, s*** happens


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Anyone had a look at how the LED's look on the Hydrocopper when changed to blue?
> 
> I've heard that it is just a setting in Precision.


I would be curious to know too or if it's piece that can be swapped out?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I would be curious to know too or if it's piece that can be swapped out?


No, it's not just a setting that can be changed in Precision. There is colored acrylic insert that needs to be changed out. PM me and I'll attempt to put you in touch with someone that we know that's done it.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> This is jjust my personal opinion from a past experience with the company. I cannot comment on how they handle their customer service now adays, but I was scared away a little while back. This was probably an isolated incident and I'm sure that their customer service is great, but that's not what I experienced. I apologize for my statement and I don't want to make EK out to be a horrible company because I'm sure they are not. Again, sorry for that statement. I should have been more clear when I wrote it. That being said, I do own some EK products and they are great performers.


Did you buy the EN nickel blocks like I did way back when? I'm just glad my Titan blocks weren't made as crappy as those were, pretty much my EK full board X58 classified, 2 580 EN blocks, and an Ek HF all looked like hell. Or as if the lava from hell was flowing through them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

http://www.corsair.com/us/900d-seb

Want.

Well......not really.....


----------



## wermad

Is that beige one???? Ugh, hated that when the rendering came out. White, needs a white version.

@B-neg, reminding you its hp-atx


----------



## derickwm

Kill it with fire


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that beige one???? Ugh, hated that when the rendering came out. White, needs a white version.
> 
> @B-neg, reminding you its hp-atx


I do want a new case for my SR2...maybe after the S3 has been done then i have a rig to use while 'the magic'* happens

*may involve a small dog,small dog not available separately,may contain choking hazard,ages 25+ for insurance purposes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Kill it with fire


But Derick,i heard you love a bit of beige action?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do want a new case for my SR2...maybe after the S3 has been done then i have a rig to use while 'the magic'* happens
> 
> *may involve a small dog,small dog not available separately,may contain choking hazard,ages 25+ for insurance purposes


Magoo strikes again


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But Derick,i heard you love a bit of beige action?


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I would be curious to know too or if it's piece that can be swapped out?
> 
> 
> 
> No, it's not just a setting that can be changed in Precision. There is colored acrylic insert that needs to be changed out. PM me and I'll attempt to put you in touch with someone that we know that's done it.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply!


----------



## Michalius

So, what do people know about these? Awesome concept. 30 Degree swivel in any direction.


----------



## MiiX

I only know 1 thing, They look awsome.


----------



## SpeedBump613

Too much discussion..more pictures. 

Mine.


































BTW, since these pictures were taken the graphic has been redone. At the time, I was under a deadline to get it finished so it didn't turn out as good as I had wanted. Here is the final version after some photoshop time.


----------



## theseekeroffun

That is slick SpeedBump! It beats my idea of the Johnnie Walker Blue case.........


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, it's not just a setting that can be changed in Precision. There is colored acrylic insert that needs to be changed out. PM me and I'll attempt to put you in touch with someone that we know that's done it.


If you need any help, I've done it successfully


----------



## pc-illiterate

yes speedbump, thats flippin awesome


----------



## wermad

Awesome graphics. First thing that popped into my head was American McGee's Snow White:


----------



## Swag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/900d-seb
> 
> Want.
> 
> Well......not really.....


I feel like that'll be easier to paint with the lighter colors. White version would be better.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/900d-seb
> 
> Want.
> 
> Well......not really.....


This was supposed to be an april fools day joke I think.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> This was supposed to be an april fools day joke I think.


Yep. I just learned that the hard way after telling a friend.


----------



## TampaChaz

I almost fell out of my office chair when I saw this.....i operate a website that ironically got its name from this very color rofl


----------



## n3farious

I decided to take some pr0n shots since someone was nice enough to nominate me for mod of the month.









Check them out here.

Here's a teaser...


Left-front-top 3/4 by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr


----------



## Swag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3farious*
> 
> I decided to take some pr0n shots since someone was nice enough to nominate me for mod of the month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check them out here.
> 
> Here's a teaser...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left-front-top 3/4 by Satterwhite.C


Looks beautiful but I was just wondering why did you need such a thick piece of acrylic? Love the belt sander work though.


----------



## n3farious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Looks beautiful but I was just wondering why did you need such a thick piece of acrylic? Love the belt sander work though.


Thanks Swag! 1/4" because I wanted the acrylic to stick through the opening and have the halo effect from the lighting.. and it worked better than expected.


----------



## Swag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3farious*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Looks beautiful but I was just wondering why did you need such a thick piece of acrylic? Love the belt sander work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Swag! 1/4" because I wanted the acrylic to stick through the opening and have the halo effect from the lighting.. and it worked better than expected.
Click to expand...

Looked really nice though, I was just wondering why.







I sanded mine too but I used a far thinner piece than yours.


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpeedBump613*
> 
> Too much discussion..more pictures.
> 
> Mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, since these pictures were taken the graphic has been redone. At the time, I was under a deadline to get it finished so it didn't turn out as good as I had wanted. Here is the final version after some photoshop time.


Top job m8 very nice snow white gone bad


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/900d-seb
> 
> Want.
> 
> Well......not really.....


That doesn't look right... not liking


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Good to see a single block and no split blocks for the chipset, is more trouble than its worth. I do like the subtle EK heatsinks for the chipset though like the X79 UD7 and RIVE LE block.

The copper fittings also look great.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> So, what do people know about these? Awesome concept. 30 Degree swivel in any direction.


That's awesome.


----------



## Pheozero

Hey guys, quick question again. Turns out there isn't anything in my house sharp enough to cut any tubing with a clean enough cut. Anyone have any suggestions of cutters I can pick up at like a Home Depot or something?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question again. Turns out there isn't anything in my house sharp enough to cut any tubing with a clean enough cut. Anyone have any suggestions of cutters I can pick up at like a Home Depot or something?


What you want are conduit cutters.

I'm a telecommunications tradesmen and just used my conduit cutters one day and are by far the best things I've ever used for cutting 19mm tubing. This is sort of what I have and they are excellent, perfect clean cuts everytime.

Mine cost $14 and can cut up to 42mm.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_cutter-conduit-crescent-incl-square-cut-adapter-ccc42_P6110171.aspx?filter=categoryname--Cutters+and+Snips


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question again. Turns out there isn't anything in my house sharp enough to cut any tubing with a clean enough cut. Anyone have any suggestions of cutters I can pick up at like a Home Depot or something?


PVC cutters works great. If you have a harborfreight near by they're cheap ~$4. Home depot he's em for a bit more.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/900d-seb
> 
> Want.
> 
> Well......not really.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was supposed to be an april fools day joke I think.
Click to expand...

It was indeed,one so funny it needed airing again.


----------



## wermad

Ordered some EK 16mm fittings from ppcs.com and I'll be buying some 5/8 (~15.9mm) six foot acrylic tube for ~$5. Hope it doesn't leak









Opted for USPS Priority so it should arrive hopefully by Saturday. Picking up some tube tomorrow or Friday.

I'll be running a small sample connected to my loop but outside the case to be on the safe side. Will subject it to some minor movement and check for leaks.


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It was indeed,one so funny it needed airing again.




*This is the funny part.*


----------



## Tarnix

that Beige thing made me grin. I remember having a beige pc... Pentium 233.. Aah. Memories.


----------



## SpeedBump613

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3farious*
> 
> I decided to take some pr0n shots since someone was nice enough to nominate me for mod of the month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check them out here.
> 
> Here's a teaser...
> 
> 
> Left-front-top 3/4 by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr


Love this one. Really nice faux paint work. Looks great.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome graphics. First thing that popped into my head was American McGee's Snow White:


For sure. That was one of the pictures I had been looking into as well, but needed the 7 little guys to fully get the i7 connection. Thanks. Glad you guys like it. It was a fun build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So,been to the hospital,finger is broken in 4 places and the knuckle has rolled over. Operation tomorrow to wire and plate it and a full hand cast for 2 weeks min.

So Pornhub will have a little less traffic this month. - feeling annoyed.

Does mean i can catch up on the database instead of hammering DayZ origins and CoH2 tho.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,been to the hospital,finger is broken in 4 places and the knuckle has rolled over. Operation tomorrow to wire and plate it and a full hand cast for 2 weeks min.
> 
> So Pornhub will have a little less traffic this month. - feeling annoyed.
> 
> Does mean i can catch up on the database instead of hammering DayZ origins and CoH2 tho.


Geez, what happened? I hope you feel better soon x_x


----------



## Ishinomori

It'll be a while till he feels "better" due to the pornhub reference I would imagine.









Hope it heals well for you bud!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,been to the hospital,finger is broken in 4 places and the knuckle has rolled over. Operation tomorrow to wire and plate it and a full hand cast for 2 weeks min.
> 
> So Pornhub will have a little less traffic this month. - feeling annoyed.
> 
> Does mean i can catch up on the database instead of hammering DayZ origins and CoH2 tho.


Hey, well you know who you have to face punch with that full hand case, right?


----------



## driftingforlife

Good old EK quality


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Good old EK quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks a little cross threaded...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Good old EK quality


sucks man.

I bought the XXL Titan block and back plate and they forgot to drill out a hole for one screw on the back plate. I was annoyed.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Good old EK quality


yikes









Pm DerickWM or Ek_Tiborrr

@BNegative, speedy recovery to you sir


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *driftingforlife*
> 
> Good old EK quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks a little cross threaded...
Click to expand...

Ya that's what I'm thinking too. Is it hard to thread? I can't believe they do those by hand as a seperate process from the CNC milling


----------



## pooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,been to the hospital,finger is broken in 4 places and the knuckle has rolled over. Operation tomorrow to wire and plate it and a full hand cast for 2 weeks min.
> 
> So Pornhub will have a little less traffic this month. - feeling annoyed.
> 
> Does mean i can catch up on the database instead of hammering DayZ origins and CoH2 tho.


Ouch... very ouch... get better soon. My first thought was the whole torture bit of last Game of Thrones season... practice on a hot dog first!

1) Guide to Bending Pipe
2) Guide to Bending Acrylic
3) Guide to Bending ....
4) PROFIT


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,been to the hospital,finger is broken in 4 places and the knuckle has rolled over. Operation tomorrow to wire and plate it and a full hand cast for 2 weeks min.
> 
> So Pornhub will have a little less traffic this month. - feeling annoyed.
> 
> Does mean i can catch up on the database instead of hammering DayZ origins and CoH2 tho.


Speedy recovery sir! I got the willies just thinking about that. Considering I'm an eSupport (online chat) supervisor, loosing use of one of my hands would be a major struggle! Not to mention what it would do to my internet "love life" LOL

DragonSpeak anyone?


----------



## zmegati

Guys i need recommendation for some solid liquid cooling plizz!


----------



## macandy13

Not long back from my work rotation and thought I would catch up on things. I also got myself a nice new camera, Canon 550D and I've just had a little play with it. Here are a few of the shots I've taken with my nice new sheet of acrylic and some vinyl transfers. Albeit the Gigabyte one is a little squint


















Let me know what you think and it is my first time using a proper camera


----------



## pc-illiterate

ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww anti-kink


----------



## RavageTheEarth

That's such a beautiful build please take off the anti-kink its a total eye sore. But to every man his own and if you like it then you should keep it. Personally I hate it LOL! Love the build though.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww anti-kink


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That's such a beautiful build please take off the anti-kink its a total eye sore. But to every man his own and if you like it then you should keep it. Personally I hate it LOL! Love the build though.


I quite like the kink coil to be honest. It adds a little contrast to it apart from the memory heat sinks being the only other contrasting factor. Also thanks for your comments, they are appreciated.

Need to get some night shots as you can't see the effects of the cathode behind the radiator.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Guys i need recommendation for some solid liquid cooling plizz!


Can you give us some information about your system and what components you're trying to cool?


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww anti-kink
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That's such a beautiful build please take off the anti-kink its a total eye sore. But to every man his own and if you like it then you should keep it. Personally I hate it LOL! Love the build though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I quite like the kink coil to be honest. It adds a little contrast to it apart from the memory heat sinks being the only other contrasting factor. Also thanks for your comments, they are appreciated.
> 
> Need to get some night shots as you can't see the effects of the cathode behind the radiator.
Click to expand...

Is that UV orange kinkcoil?

I'm looking to do a build with Mayhems UV blue/clear dye and blue dye, as well as orange kinkcoil.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Guys i need recommendation for some solid liquid cooling plizz!


Solid liquid cooling? What does this even mean?

Please*


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Is that UV orange kinkcoil?
> 
> I'm looking to do a build with Mayhems UV blue/clear dye and blue dye, as well as orange kinkcoil.


Yeah its the Primochill UV Orange one. My original plan was to use the EK UV stuff but it didn't appear very UV so I went for this instead and took the UV LED's out. Glad I did as I really like how it looks now









Hope the UV combo works out better for you


----------



## zmegati

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you give us some information about your system and what components you're trying to cool?


My system:
Processor: AMD FX-8120 3.1Ghz, 16MB cache, Eight Core
Graphic Card: XFX 7970 BLACK EDITION 3Gb
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA 990 XA-UD3
Memories: G.SKILL - RIPJAWS X 4X2GB 1333Mhz
Hard Drive: SSD OCZ AGILITY 3 60 Gb
Hard Drive: 2x WD Green 1Tb
Hard Drive: 1x WD Black 1Tb
Hard Drive: 1x WD Green 2Tb
Case: Coler Master 690 II advance
PSU: 850W, XFX Black Edition, Modular Cables

I just ordered EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ and Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ 79X0, I have tube, fittings

and now I just need some cooling liquid.

My cooling system currently looks like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1414174/help-in-selecting
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Solid liquid cooling? What does this even mean?
> 
> Please*


Sry for my english...I meant to say some liquid with great performance of cooling, and do not affect bad on cooling system.


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Is that UV orange kinkcoil?
> 
> I'm looking to do a build with Mayhems UV blue/clear dye and blue dye, as well as orange kinkcoil.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah its the Primochill UV Orange one. My original plan was to use the EK UV stuff but it didn't appear very UV so I went for this instead and took the UV LED's out. Glad I did as I really like how it looks now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope the UV combo works out better for you
Click to expand...

One can only hope, i'm even considering putting the coil on the Bitspower crystallink, for the added effect.


----------



## pc-illiterate

are you sure you got the right block for your 7970? i hate to see someone else get a block and it not fit.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> My system:
> Processor: AMD FX-8120 3.1Ghz, 16MB cache, Eight Core
> Graphic Card: XFX 7970 BLACK EDITION 3Gb
> Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA 990 XA-UD3
> Memories: G.SKILL - RIPJAWS X 4X2GB 1333Mhz
> Hard Drive: SSD OCZ AGILITY 3 60 Gb
> Hard Drive: 2x WD Green 1Tb
> Hard Drive: 1x WD Black 1Tb
> Hard Drive: 1x WD Green 2Tb
> Case: Coler Master 690 II advance
> PSU: 850W, XFX Black Edition, Modular Cables
> 
> I just ordered EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ and Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ 79X0, I have tube, fittings
> 
> and now I just need some cooling liquid.
> 
> My cooling system currently looks like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1414174/help-in-selecting
> Sry for my english...I meant to say some liquid with great performance of cooling, and do not affect bad on cooling system.


Plain distilled water is the best, add some biocide to prevent algae growth and you're set.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> One can only hope, i'm even considering putting the coil on the Bitspower crystallink, for the added effect.


One thing for sure if you put it on the crystal link it would be a lot easier to adjust with the hard surface and better smoothness over the regular tubing :L


----------



## zmegati

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> are you sure you got the right block for your 7970? i hate to see someone else get a block and it not fit.


Do not frighten me! xD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> This article by EKWB will get you informed: http://www.ekwb.com/news/233/19/New-revision-od-XFX-7970-cards-brings-compatibility-issues/
> 
> XFX changed their PCB layout unannounced a couple months ago, leaving most people with XFX "reference" cards, unable to use reference 7970 waterblocks. You'll have to verify which XFX card you have (EK explains how to do this in the article above). There is currently only ONE waterblock on the market that fit's these video cards: LINK
> 
> As for the AM3+ waterblock, I would recommend an EK Supremacy, but if you want to stick with the Heatkiller theme, HERE is their waterblock that debatably performs just as well. Yes, it will fit socket AM3+.


I hope he is right!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Solid liquid cooling? What does this even mean?
> 
> Please*


Ice?


----------



## TampaChaz

My brain hurts. 9 hours of IT support at my day job, came home and two hours of MS Virtual Academy to update my MCSE to include Windows 8. I'm all "putered" out for the night LOL


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys. Can somebody help real fast? If I'm looking for compression fittings to fit 3/8" ID hose, should I be looking for *10/8mm*, or *13/10mm*? These are just examples to help me understand what I would need.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys. Can somebody help real fast? If I'm looking for compression fittings to fit 3/8" ID hose, should I be looking for *10/8mm*, or *13/10mm*? These are just examples to help me understand what I would need.


Compressions match inner and outer....

If you have a 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tube then you get 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD fitting.

3/8 ID usually has 5/8 OD or 1/2 OD...Which do you use?

5/8 OD http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=27726

1/2 OD http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=27725

EDIT: just realized you put up the links for metric sizes.
3/8 in = 9.5mm, which is compatible with the 13/10mm, but you need the 1/2 OD tube which maps to 12.7mm


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Compressions match inner and outer....
> 
> If you have a 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tube then you get 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD fitting.
> 
> 3/8 ID usually has 5/8 OD or 1/2 OD...Which do you use?
> 
> 5/8 OD http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=27726
> 
> 1/2 OD http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_614&products_id=27725


I don't have a water cooling setup yet, I'm trying to better understand what I would need if I were to put together one. And, yeahh, I'm not paying 9 dollars for one fitting.

I'm trying to understand the mm to inch conversion that Phobya is using. So those links don't exactly help me. I understand there is an ID and OD to hoses and fittings. But 3/8" to mm is approximately 9.5mm.

My hoses would be 3/8" ID 1/2" OD.. *Corrected*


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I don't have a water cooling setup yet, I'm trying to better understand what I would need if I were to put together one. And, yeahh, I'm not paying 9 dollars for one fitting.
> 
> I'm trying to understand the mm to inch conversion that Phobya is using. So those links don't exactly help me. I understand there is an ID and OD to hoses and fittings. But 3/8" to mm is approximately 9.5mm.
> 
> My hoses would be 3/8" ID 1/2" OD.. *Corrected*


Yeah. please see edit in above post.

Also, from the link you sent:

Compatibility:
The 13/10 fittings are compatible to 13/10mm and 12,7/9,5mm (3/8") hoses


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah. please see edit in above post.
> 
> Also, from the link you sent:
> 
> Compatibility:
> The 13/10 fittings are compatible to 13/10mm and 12,7/9,5mm (3/8") hoses


Gotcha, I was editing mine and didnt see your edit. haha.

That makes more sense to hear it from someone else though, so thank you.

I do realize that the examples I had linked wouldve been incorrect for the scenario I explained in my previous post. It wasnt making sense at first, so I didnt know what was for what.

So if I'm looking to get 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing, and the fittings are in metric, I want 13/10..


----------



## cyphon

Yep! Should be good with those you linked.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yep! Should be good with those you linked.


Aweome, thank you. Glad to know I was on the right track. Too bad those 13/10 fittings I linked (and wanted) are on backorder at PPCS


----------



## Destrto

While this watercooling is fresh on my mind, I have another question. How well would running from one radiator straight to another radiator work(or not work) before hitting the cpu block? I'm trying to flesh out the ideas i have in my head about how I would want my setup to look.

Right now, for those that can picture it: (not relevant to the question above)

I want 2 radiators in this proposed setup. But I dont know how the route would work.

I'm theorizing using this XSPC Pump/Res combo. the way I want my flow to work right now, starting at the pump for ease of part listing, is from the pump/res up to this radiator block (imagine the Azza 9000's layout). From there, down to the IN side of this Block. OUT to the second radiator, located in the front panel or bottom, and then back to the pump/res.

Is the routing ok on that? It seems ok in my head trying to picture it. But any thoughts? I'm no good with editing pictures like I've seen on here. So I apologize for making you work your imagination to envision this. I am currently trying to draw up what I am describing. I will edit this post when I get it done.

best I could do..


----------



## WebsterXC

Yes that will work fine.

There really isn't a set requirement on loop order or what needs to go where. As long as you post pictures when you're finished building


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Yes that will work fine.
> 
> There really isn't a set requirement on loop order or what needs to go where. As long as you post pictures when you're finished building


This will be my first attempt at watercooling. So I wanted to get the issues bugging me out of my system first. Rather than struggle over it once I actually have the parts in my hand. haha. I'll definitely have to figure out how the tubing will have to go around the GPU's I would have.

Also, how easy/difficult is it when transferring a watercooling setup from one case to another? Would I just have to make sure I could rerun the tubing? Or possibly completely re-do the tubing runs?


----------



## WebsterXC

Since cases are so different, you'd have to completely re-do the tubing. If you plan on doing that, make sure you buy extra tubing, but it's more than okay to reuse tubing!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Since cases are so different, you'd have to completely re-do the tubing. If you plan on doing that, make sure you buy extra tubing, but it's more than okay to reuse tubing!


I sortof figured I would have to re-do the tubing with a new case. But that's no biggie. I want to at least attempt water cooling with my 500R, but I can already tell that it does not have quite the room I would need for radiators. Thanks for the help though. Appreciate it.


----------



## RickRockerr

Im thinking of lapping my cpu and I have EK-Supremacy - Acetal block. Is there need to lap the block?


----------



## _REAPER_

Gentleman headed back to the land of sand here is a pic of my office as it will stay until I get home in December


----------



## Elder

27" Dell + 42" Cisco LCD 110L PRO 42.
Latest version of my place to work and play


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> While this watercooling is fresh on my mind, I have another question. How well would running from one radiator straight to another radiator work(or not work) before hitting the cpu block? I'm trying to flesh out the ideas i have in my head about how I would want my setup to look.
> 
> Right now, for those that can picture it: (not relevant to the question above)
> 
> I want 2 radiators in this proposed setup. But I dont know how the route would work.
> 
> I'm theorizing using this XSPC Pump/Res combo. the way I want my flow to work right now, starting at the pump for ease of part listing, is from the pump/res up to this radiator block (imagine the Azza 9000's layout). From there, down to the IN side of this Block. OUT to the second radiator, located in the front panel or bottom, and then back to the pump/res.
> 
> Is the routing ok on that? It seems ok in my head trying to picture it. But any thoughts? I'm no good with editing pictures like I've seen on here. So I apologize for making you work your imagination to envision this. I am currently trying to draw up what I am describing. I will edit this post when I get it done.
> 
> best I could do..


It looks as though you are looking to use crossflow radiators, i would advise against this as all of them are single pass (i.e the water only flows through them once) where as most other Rads with the in/outlets on one side are dualpass, more efficient cooling. But seeing as how you only plan to cool your CPU, it shouldn't matter with 600 worth of Rad (MoarRAD!).

I would consider changing your bottom 240 to a dual pass, that way you dont have to run the tube all the way to the bottom of the case!









Links for your reading pleasure.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1396672/single-vs-dual-pass-radiators-cross-flow/0_40
http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_Papers/Assessment%20of%20Radiator%20Performance.pdf

Cheers,

*Edit:* Also, with routing to the bottom rad, you you introduce GPU blocks, it will be much easier (depending on how the case is)


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> It looks as though you are looking to use crossflow radiators, i would advise against this as all of them are single pass (i.e the water only flows through them once) where as most other Rads with the in/outlets on one side are dualpass, more efficient cooling. But seeing as how you only plan to cool your CPU, it shouldn't matter with 600 worth of Rad (MoarRAD!).
> 
> I would consider changing your bottom 240 to a dual pass, that way you dont have to run the tube all the way to the bottom of the case!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Links for your reading pleasure.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1396672/single-vs-dual-pass-radiators-cross-flow/0_40
> http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_Papers/Assessment%20of%20Radiator%20Performance.pdf
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> *Edit:* Also, with routing to the bottom rad, you you introduce GPU blocks, it will be much easier (depending on how the case is)


When you look at that swiftech PDF where they compare crossflow to dual pass you see the difference is no more than 5 watt of heat dissipated, barely 3%. Advising against single pass radiators while it can be of great help to get a loop in order seems a little out of proportion.


----------



## Muskaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Gentleman headed back to the land of sand here is a pic of my office as it will stay until I get home in December


Come home safe, I just finished my 7th and last deployment in May this year.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muskaos*
> 
> Come home safe, I just finished my 7th and last deployment in May this year.


I am hoping that in December I will be done but it is looking like June of next year 11 years in the Middle East is enough for me


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> It looks as though you are looking to use crossflow radiators, i would advise against this as all of them are single pass (i.e the water only flows through them once) where as most other Rads with the in/outlets on one side are dualpass, more efficient cooling. But seeing as how you only plan to cool your CPU, it shouldn't matter with 600 worth of Rad (MoarRAD!).
> 
> I would consider changing your bottom 240 to a dual pass, that way you dont have to run the tube all the way to the bottom of the case!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Links for your reading pleasure.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1396672/single-vs-dual-pass-radiators-cross-flow/0_40
> http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_Papers/Assessment%20of%20Radiator%20Performance.pdf
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> *Edit:* Also, with routing to the bottom rad, you you introduce GPU blocks, it will be much easier (depending on how the case is)
> 
> 
> 
> When you look at that swiftech PDF where they compare crossflow to dual pass you see the difference is no more than 5 watt of heat dissipated, barely 3%. Advising against single pass radiators while it can be of great help to get a loop in order seems a little out of proportion.
Click to expand...

Sure, but you have to agree that a dualpass rad would be better for tube management in the front of the case.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Gentleman headed back to the land of sand here is a pic of my office as it will stay until I get home in December
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All the best. Again, great job on your build.


----------



## kcuestag

Here's a Raven 3 build from a friend, a store from Spain built it for him, I was impressed because I've only seen one watercooled Raven 3 in OCN and his result was amazing, since it's not really a case for water cooling:







You can check the progress here starting in page 3: http://elchapuzasinformatico.com/foro/showthread.php?7394-Raven-3-fotos-y-modificaciones


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> When you look at that swiftech PDF where they compare crossflow to dual pass you see the difference is no more than 5 watt of heat dissipated, barely 3%. Advising against single pass radiators while it can be of great help to get a loop in order seems a little out of proportion.


^ This

Additionally, the single passes are less restrictive.


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> When you look at that swiftech PDF where they compare crossflow to dual pass you see the difference is no more than 5 watt of heat dissipated, barely 3%. Advising against single pass radiators while it can be of great help to get a loop in order seems a little out of proportion.
> 
> 
> 
> ^ This
> 
> Additionally, the single passes are less restrictive.
Click to expand...

Rads are the least restrictive component in a watercooling loop regardless.


----------



## rickyman0319

when you build a watecooled system with corsair SP120 fan, do you guys use SP120 w/PWM or w/o PWN ?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> when you build a watecooled system with corsair SP120 fan, do you guys use SP120 w/PWM or w/o PWN ?


I prefer PWM


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I prefer PWM


I am wondering If i can use fan controller for those fan w/o PWM or not. cause I bought Sp120 w/o PWM and try to adjust the speed of it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering If i can use fan controller for those fan w/o PWM or not. cause I bought Sp120 w/o PWM and try to adjust the speed of it.


Most fan controllers use voltage regulation and therefore you'll want to use non-PWM fans with them. Using PWM fans with a voltage regulated fan controller can cause the fans to tick and fail more quickly.


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering If i can use fan controller for those fan w/o PWM or not. cause I bought Sp120 w/o PWM and try to adjust the speed of it.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but fan controllers use voltage to control speed and not really PWM. So your fan controller should work with the non-PWM fans you have.

edit: BramSTI1 beat me to it...lol


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Most fan controllers use voltage regulation and therefore you'll want to use non-PWM fans with them. Using PWM fans with a voltage regulated fan controller can cause the fans to tick and fail more quickly.


I did not know that all. thanks for telling me.

I am wondering is this a good choice for a fan controller or not.

I am using H80i with those Sp120 fan. I would use fan controller rather than plugin slot for h80i,.

Lamptron FC5 v2 is this a good one.


----------



## kyismaster

lol, well the only fans i've bought in pwm are deltas


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And im back.......


----------



## PinzaC55

Just been finishing off tidying up the cables on the old girl and replacing the Lamptron FC5 V2 fan controller damaged during the initial tidy. Another £35 down the drain.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And im back.......


Ouch! Just looking at that makes me cringe. Get well soon Bro!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And im back.......


Ouch







Meds treating you ok?

Fittings come in today


----------



## Destrto

Read through the posts. Thanks guys for the suggestions and tips. Although I do agree a traditional radiator would work a bit better in the front of the case, some of what was said started to get into semantics. 5W difference is negligible to me, and I would prefer a cleaner tubing route to a possible1C-2C difference in temps.

It would actually work better for me to have a crossflow there for the "just in case" factor of if I do upgrade to GPU cooling.

The second radiator in the picture at the bottom was put there to show the 2 places I had thought of placing it, not that I planned to put one in each position.

Again, thanks for all the assistance guys. It really does help me understand the details behind water cooling.

EDIT: B NEG, get well soon buddy.


----------



## MiiX

Getting a MCP35X inside a SG05 with the heatsink is HARD :\
How would this work out?
Push fan -> Shroud -> Radiator -> 120 to 80/90mm fan adapter -> MCP35X heatsink

Would it be better to cut the 4 corners off, so I just got the mounting points? Or would it just be much simpler using a MCP355?

I want the MCP35X cause I want to be able to ramp down the pump with PWM rather than squeeze a controller in there to manage the pump

Or do i even need the heatsink?


----------



## wermad

We have lift off!!!!!!!!!!









EK 16mm od HD acrylic tube connector w/ 5/8" od acrylic tube (15.9mm) works so far in this test. Next step is to plumb this sample into my loop (will be outside of the case, re-routed with traditional tube). If all goes well, I'll be ordering ~18 of them for my loop. 5/8" od acrylic tube (1/2" id) is cheap at my local store (~$4 for six feet). I haven't heard or seen anyone try 16mm tube (other then sli links) for the entire loop. Ppcs.com has the female fittings (ones I ordered) but you can order directly form EK (both male and female in male nickel or black nickel). Nickel finish is ok but I plan to spray paint them satin black.


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And im back.......


Ouch!!! It wasn't that new machine you got was it?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> We have lift off!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK 16mm od HD acrylic tube connector w/ 5/8" od acrylic tube (15.9mm) works so far in this test. Next step is to plumb this sample into my loop (will be outside of the case, re-routed with traditional tube). If all goes well, I'll be ordering ~18 of them for my loop. 5/8" od acrylic tube (1/2" id) is cheap at my local store (~$4 for six feet). I haven't heard or seen anyone try 16mm tube (other then sli links) for the entire loop. Ppcs.com has the female fittings (ones I ordered) but you can order directly form EK (both male and female in male nickel or black nickel). Nickel finish is ok but I plan to spray paint them satin black.


Cool. I can not wait to see some updates.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And im back.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ouch!!! It wasn't that new machine you got was it?
Click to expand...

No,my S3 is over the Atlantic right now...


----------



## grymok

Sign me up in this beautiful club









Fitting a watercool build into a HAF 932, was pretty hard. It took me like 14-18 hours to get it to work(First build also)

But some pics:


----------



## kcuestag

That build looks nice, I miss my old HAF 932.









Something I'd do is move the rear fan outside the case, this way the radiator doesn't "hide" part of the motherboard, might look a bit ugly outside, but inside the case should look better.


----------



## steelkevin

Is that rear fan pulling air through the rad ? It may not make a big difference but I've always thought pushing was a better option.
Plus if you that it wouldn't be hiding the motherboard so much (like kcuestag said) and the rad being a bit wore out wouldn't be an aesthetic issue anymore.
And I wouldn't trust the noctua holding my rad especially if you're using rubber anti vibration things instead of screws.

I can't really see how each tube is routed but turning the pump/res so the tube that goes to the top rad is on the other side would look much cleaner and less tubing is always a good thing.


----------



## fnyk

My new setup ^^ realy happy new ^^


----------



## grymok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Is that rear fan pulling air through the rad ? It may not make a big difference but I've always thought pushing was a better option.
> Plus if you that it wouldn't be hiding the motherboard so much (like kcuestag said) and the rad being a bit wore out wouldn't be an aesthetic issue anymore.
> And I wouldn't trust the noctua holding my rad especially if you're using rubber anti vibration things instead of screws.
> 
> I can't really see how each tube is routed but turning the pump/res so the tube that goes to the top rad is on the other side would look much cleaner and less tubing is always a good thing.


The fan outside of the case, hmm, didn't thought about that







. Could be a solution, and then i can maybe just use a SHORT tube to my cpu.
But that will have to wait, cba to pull it all apart right now.
The 120rad is hold my screws, so there shouldn't be a problem








i can't turn the RES/top/pump. Already now there isn't a lot of space for my sound card







Just got it fitted in, after the tubing.

The temps is measured while folding.
temps on Intel i7 930 4.0 1.38v:
idle: 30-40C
load 56-63

Temps on msi 7950:
idle: 32-35
load: 40-43


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grymok*
> 
> The fan outside of the case, hmm, didn't thought about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Could be a solution, and then i can maybe just use a SHORT tube to my cpu.
> But that will have to wait, cba to pull it all apart right now.
> The 120rad is hold my screws, so there shouldn't be a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can't turn the RES/top/pump. Already now there isn't a lot of space for my sound card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got it fitted in, after the tubing.
> 
> The temps is measured while folding.
> temps on Intel i7 930 4.0 1.38v:
> idle: 30-40C
> load 56-63
> 
> Temps on msi 7950:
> idle: 32-35
> load: 40-43


Nice temperatures!









Whenever you feel like draining the loop, let us know, I'm sure we could work out a cleaner loop design. In the mean time, enjoy it, haven't seen many water cooling loops in a HAF 932, I miss that case, had it for a bit over a year.


----------



## Hefner

This thread is better than porn. Just scrolled through 1500 pages of awesomeness I cannot afford.


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> This thread is better than porn. Just scrolled through 1500 pages of awesomeness I cannot afford.


Slowly accumulate parts second hand


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grymok*
> 
> The fan outside of the case, hmm, didn't thought about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Could be a solution, and then i can maybe just use a SHORT tube to my cpu.
> But that will have to wait, cba to pull it all apart right now.
> The 120rad is hold my screws, so there shouldn't be a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can't turn the RES/top/pump. Already now there isn't a lot of space for my sound card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got it fitted in, after the tubing.
> 
> The temps is measured while folding.
> temps on Intel i7 930 4.0 1.38v:
> idle: 30-40C
> load 56-63
> 
> Temps on msi 7950:
> idle: 32-35
> load: 40-43


The fan outside wasn't my suggestion







.
What I meant was putting the fan inside but on the other side of the radiator pushing air through the rad outside the case









I'm really jealous of your temps though







. What's your ambient ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Slowly accumulate parts second hand


That's the best option if you're either broke or still a student with no income living with your parents







.
I got my entire loop for a bit less than 200€. What I bought used was the CPU block, the two rads, the pump, its top and the reservoir







.
BUT, I got lucky, I sold the four noctuas that I got second hand at the same time as the other parts for 7€ and got 4 Apache fans on sale for 6€ each







. Add to that I didn't pay a penny for the liquid, it was all sponsored (saved me A LOT of money) and the fact that I went with 8/11mm fittings beause aquatuning had straight and angled fittings for 0.70€-1.60€ each that really don't look cheap or bad. And the top two yate loons were 3€ each from aquatuning.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Slowly accumulate parts second hand


Or start with a really good case, then transfer the bits of your old PC into it then gradually upgrade the parts like this guy did.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0UPQGA3qvo

This is one of a series he has.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Getting a MCP35X inside a SG05 with the heatsink is HARD :\
> How would this work out?
> Push fan -> Shroud -> Radiator -> 120 to 80/90mm fan adapter -> MCP35X heatsink
> 
> Would it be better to cut the 4 corners off, so I just got the mounting points? Or would it just be much simpler using a MCP355?
> 
> I want the MCP35X cause I want to be able to ramp down the pump with PWM rather than squeeze a controller in there to manage the pump
> 
> Or do i even need the heatsink?


From my own experience with these pumps you only really need the heat sink if you're planning to run the pump at full speed most of the time. I would suggest throttling the speed down to about 65 to 70% or so and just leave it at that. Or you can have it only run at full speed when you're at full load. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From my own experience with these pumps you only really need the heat sink if you're planning to run the pump at full speed most of the time. I would suggest throttling the speed down to about 65 to 70% or so and just leave it at that. Or you can have it only run at full speed when you're at full load. I hope this answers your question.


Even then I'd say the heat sink is only necessary if you are running a lower restriction loop. Like just a single CPU block. I run mine @ 1200-1300 rpm all day long so heat isn't something I have to worry about.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> This thread is better than porn. Just scrolled through 1500 pages of awesomeness I cannot afford.


It's such a awesome thread to read through from the very beginning. It's like reading through the documented evolution of water cooling.


----------



## robcowboy73

http://postimg.org/image/89ok6xklz/[/quote]
that is off the hook loving it keep it up:thumb:


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From my own experience with these pumps you only really need the heat sink if you're planning to run the pump at full speed most of the time. I would suggest throttling the speed down to about 65 to 70% or so and just leave it at that. Or you can have it only run at full speed when you're at full load. I hope this answers your question.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Even then I'd say the heat sink is only necessary if you are running a lower restriction loop. Like just a single CPU block. I run mine @ 1200-1300 rpm all day long so heat isn't something I have to worry about.


Im just going to run a CPU loop at first, but I will add in a GPU when I get the cash for it. Will I then need the heatsink? Im very limited in space, so if any of you if I can mount the pump as I said without loosing performance from the rad, i'd be jumping rooftops


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Im just going to run a CPU loop at first, but I will add in a GPU when I get the cash for it. Will I then need the heatsink? Im very limited in space, so if any of you if I can mount the pump as I said without loosing performance from the rad, i'd be jumping rooftops


Just check the pump to see if it's getting hot. If it is then just turn down the speed. If you're just adding a graphics card to your loop you still shouldn't need to run it at full speed anyway.


----------



## grymok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> The fan outside wasn't my suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> What I meant was putting the fan inside but on the other side of the radiator pushing air through the rad outside the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really jealous of your temps though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What's your ambient ?


Actually i don't know, but i think something around 26-29C. Theres hotter inside than the outside atm, and google tell me, theres around 27C outside.
But i don't love the temps on my CPU:S 56-60C in cpu tin and like 70-75 on the cores.
But the Graphics card, rules ALL expectations. Can push it to 1300/1800 and get like 42-43C









The problem with the tubing from the 120rad to CPU is that, I need this big loop, to get it to fit.
Not sure if it will help to move the fan outside.

Just got some final pics:




I did buy some LEDs for the CPU block and the Reservoir, but these LEDs is getting REALLY REALLY hot. Is this normal?

EDIT: Ups, some junk in the button of the case:doh:


----------



## steelkevin

Holy **** ! I couldn't see what was going on in the other pictures. That 120mm rad to CPU is insane







!

I'm not sure but with a 90° and a 45° you could probably just go straight to the CPU. It may take two 45°s or 90°s.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Im just going to run a CPU loop at first, but I will add in a GPU when I get the cash for it. Will I then need the heatsink? Im very limited in space, so if any of you if I can mount the pump as I said without loosing performance from the rad, i'd be jumping rooftops


If you are short of space your first purchase should be a bigger case. I have the HAF -X but I wish I had something bigger like a Corsair 900d.


----------



## grymok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Holy **** ! I couldn't see what was going on in the other pictures. That 120mm rad to CPU is insane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> I'm not sure but with a 90° and a 45° you could probably just go straight to the CPU. It may take two 45°s or 90°s.


But i don't got any 90° and 45° left. Only bought 4 45° and 2 90°. Shold have bought 2 extra of each.
But it wasn't planned to put the 120 rad into the loop, it was just an impulsive thing. But i kinda love it








I don't think i will change much in the setup, I think i will wait till i'm going to buy a new case


----------



## marc0053

My current setup with an expanded H220 with added 2x240mm UT60 rads and 2 EKWB GTX Titan waterblocks.
I'm using 4 x Noctua NF F12s and 2x Swiftech stock H220 fans.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> If you are short of space your first purchase should be a bigger case. I have the HAF -X but I wish I had something bigger like a Corsair 900d.


Silverstone Sugo 05, I dont want it bigger


----------



## snef

hi

just finish put plasti-dip on a motherboard and it work

I really like the finish, pretty similar to bitfenix soft touch

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0068_zpsf8c16315.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0062_zpsc2ea8a7c.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0058_zpsaa06e572.jpg.html


----------



## Mr357

Looks pretty sweet!









Wait, this the watercooling thread


----------



## snef

yep I know







but this rig will run under water, this is just a test, maybe move it to the right place ?


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> hi
> 
> just finish put plasti-dip on a motherboard and it work
> 
> I really like the finish, pretty similar to bitfenix soft touch
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0068_zpsf8c16315.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0062_zpsc2ea8a7c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0058_zpsaa06e572.jpg.html


That looks awesome! What did you use there?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Looks pretty sweet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, this the watercooling thread


It's gonna be a WC rig anyway! Relax!


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> hi
> 
> just finish put *plasti-dip* on a motherboard and it work
> 
> I really like the finish, pretty similar to bitfenix soft touch
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0068_zpsf8c16315.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0062_zpsc2ea8a7c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0058_zpsaa06e572.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks awesome! What did you use there?
Click to expand...


----------



## PCModderMike

Working on getting some more photos together...but just wanted to share with the gallery what I have right now.


----------



## Ishinomori

Nice mate.

I wish they still done the Gelid Wing 4packs! *sigh*


----------



## protzman

a little less blue than usual pcmm


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Nice mate.
> 
> I wish they still done the Gelid Wing 4packs! *sigh*


Thanks mate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> a little less blue than usual pcmm












Weaning myself off my blue and white addiction.


----------



## Triniboi82

Small update to my build, wanted to share


----------



## grymok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Small update to my build, wanted to share
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice mate!.
Wish a build like that









Btw is it normal that small LEDs getting REALLY REALLY hot?.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> If you are short of space your first purchase should be a bigger case. I have the HAF -X but I wish I had something bigger like a Corsair 900d.


But once you go big, the next stop is a smaller case
first world problem,
well at least thats what happening to me


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grymok*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Looks nice mate!.
> Wish a build like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw is it normal that small LEDs getting REALLY REALLY hot?.


Thanks man, with regards to the LEDs that's not the case at all, they're very cool.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Working on getting some more photos together...but just wanted to share with the gallery what I have right now.


Hey MM, that looks Awesome, my only critique would be to rotate the pump/res so the sticker and fitting are facing the front rad. Will give a clearer view of the res/pump









Edit: might need a 90* on the rad if you change.


----------



## Illuminati




----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> hi
> 
> just finish put plasti-dip on a motherboard and it work
> 
> I really like the finish, pretty similar to bitfenix soft touch
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0068_zpsf8c16315.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0062_zpsc2ea8a7c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0058_zpsaa06e572.jpg.html






That uncooled VRM makes me cringe.

Gorgeous board, though. Galaxy should make white motherboards to match their white GPUs.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Illuminati*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! That's a lot of milk!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Hey MM, that looks Awesome, my only critique would be to rotate the pump/res so the sticker and fitting are facing the front rad. Will give a clearer view of the res/pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: might need a 90* on the rad if you change.


Thanks







I like your suggestion...but my main reason for having the pump face the way it is right now is so the wires coming off the back of the pump go straight up behind the motherboard tray.


----------



## sebar

FYI, you can rotate the pump and the top around so that the wires can be any direction you want.









But that would require you to disassemble the pump and possibly void your warranty.


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Hey MM, that looks Awesome, my only critique would be to rotate the pump/res so the sticker and fitting are facing the front rad. Will give a clearer view of the res/pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: might need a 90* on the rad if you change.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like your suggestion...but my main reason for having the pump face the way it is right now is so the wires coming off the back of the pump go straight up behind the motherboard tray.
Click to expand...

Black tape over the sticker perhaps? lol


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Illuminati*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LOVE this! Is there a build log?


----------



## DarkHollow

So this is my EN block after several months, did a teardown to clean my CPU block and change some fans around.

Before Cleaning:


After Cleaning:





Wonderful EK quality on these EN blocks. Good thing they fixed the issues with the EN revision. /s


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My 7970 EN blocks were nearly new looking after a year of 24/7 use so this issue is definitely a YMMV situation. Don't assume that your misfortune is universal...


----------



## hatrix216

I sooooo want to do a loop for my crossfire 7850s. It would give me so much better overclocking ability and I wouldn't have to crank any fans when I play demanding games. Plus they definitely heat up my room, not helping their situation.

The waterblocks look so nice too....

I just don't think it's worth it considering a single block is going to cost me $100. I'd be better off selling both cards or something and getting a better single card.

Thoughts ?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> I sooooo want to do a loop for my crossfire 7850s. It would give me so much better overclocking ability and I wouldn't have to crank any fans when I play demanding games. Plus they definitely heat up my room, not helping their situation.
> 
> The waterblocks look so nice too....
> 
> I just don't think it's worth it considering a single block is going to cost me $100. I'd be better off selling both cards or something and getting a better single card.
> 
> Thoughts ?


That is about as subjective as you can get. I am into WC'ing for over $2500, but it's my thing. on a practical note. the WC'ing is the difference between 4.8GHz and 5.340GHz on the CPU and 1175MHz and 1330MHz on the GPU's
so...is it your 'thing?'


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> That is about as subjective as you can get. I am into WC'ing for over $2500, but it's my thing. on a practical note. the WC'ing is the difference between 4.8GHz and 5.340GHz on the CPU and 1175MHz and 1330MHz on the GPU's
> so...is it your 'thing?'


I mean I'm no newbie to building rigs, but I've only recently gone with water on my CPU, though it's an H100i.

I would say I'm also going to become addicted to doing custom loops for whatever if I start one for my current build. If I was going to do the cards, I would probably ditch the H100i and do a full loop.

Now is that increase in overclock worth it..... It would be pretty nice. Definite performance gain for me. I would love how quiet it would be too.

And the looks, the right done custom loops looks so sick.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My 7970 EN blocks were nearly new looking after a year of 24/7 use so this issue is definitely a YMMV situation. Don't assume that your misfortune is universal...


Don't assume your fortune is universal.
I have not seen any other manu blocks here with anything like that...have you?
I'm a betting man,I would bet there has not been a coil in there to 'cause' that either.

Op-contact EK for an RMA


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Don't assume your fortune is universal.
> I have not seen any other manu blocks here with anything like that...have you?
> *I'm a betting man*,I would bet there has not been a coil in there to 'cause' that either.
> 
> Op-contact EK for an RMA


is that how your pinky got smashed up?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> I sooooo want to do a loop for my crossfire 7850s. It would give me so much better overclocking ability and I wouldn't have to crank any fans when I play demanding games. Plus they definitely heat up my room, not helping their situation.
> 
> The waterblocks look so nice too....
> 
> I just don't think it's worth it considering a single block is going to cost me $100. I'd be better off selling both cards or something and getting a better single card.
> 
> Thoughts ?
> 
> 
> 
> That is about as subjective as you can get. I am into WC'ing for over $2500, but it's my thing. on a practical note. the WC'ing is the difference between 4.8GHz and 5.340GHz on the CPU and 1175MHz and 1330MHz on the GPU's
> so...is it your 'thing?'
Click to expand...

It was the difference between 2.6Ghz and 4.1 with mine.....





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Don't assume your fortune is universal.
> I have not seen any other manu blocks here with anything like that...have you?
> *I'm a betting man*,I would bet there has not been a coil in there to 'cause' that either.
> 
> Op-contact EK for an RMA
> 
> 
> 
> is that how your pinky got smashed up?
Click to expand...

I bet with money,not body parts....not since i gave up street and ramp riding 10 years a go anyway......


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I bet with money,not body parts....not since i gave up street and ramp riding 10 years a go anyway......


I think he was refering to money, too much of someone elses!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I bet with money,not body parts....not since i gave up street and ramp riding 10 years a go anyway......
> 
> 
> 
> I think he was refering to money, too much of someone elses!
Click to expand...

Sadly not,I could do with a loan to speed up my S3 build.......


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> hi
> 
> just finish put plasti-dip on a motherboard and it work
> 
> I really like the finish, pretty similar to bitfenix soft touch


I've had that same idea for a while now. Have you run this board under power yet? I'm curious to know if there are any problems with heat or anything for that matter. Nice job. If you say there were no problems, I see me doing the same thing with my build. very clean look


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That looks awesome! What did you use there?


He used Plasti Dip http://www.plastidip.com/


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly not,I could do with a loan to speed up my S3 build.......


How much of a Loan?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly not,I could do with a loan to speed up my S3 build.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much of a Loan?
Click to expand...

About $1200 or £1000......GPUs....so expensive.....


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> About $1200 or £1000......GPUs....so expensive.....


I am about to spend pretty close to 4k on GPUs,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> About $1200 or £1000......GPUs....so expensive.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am about to spend pretty close to 4k on GPUs,
Click to expand...

Thats the good thing about ITX,one GPU,keeps upgrades cheap.
So its got to be a Titan.


----------



## _REAPER_

yeah I want to get 3 titans


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> He used Plasti Dip http://www.plastidip.com/


I already found out myself, thanks anyway







Shame on me that I didn't know that stuff.
But that's definitely something I wanna try out on my next build.


----------



## DarkHollow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My 7970 EN blocks were nearly new looking after a year of 24/7 use so this issue is definitely a YMMV situation. Don't assume that your misfortune is universal...


I don't assume it is universal however, I feel EK needs to truly remedy the issue not just say that a new way of plating changes things when it clearly doesn't. It may have lessened the occurrence of the issues but a lower count of issues does not mean it is fixed. I have not ran a thing but distilled in this loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My 7970 EN blocks were nearly new looking after a year of 24/7 use so this issue is definitely a YMMV situation. Don't assume that your misfortune is universal...
> 
> 
> 
> Don't assume your fortune is universal.
> I have not seen any other manu blocks here with anything like that...have you?
> I'm a betting man,I would bet there has not been a coil in there to 'cause' that either.
> 
> Op-contact EK for an RMA
Click to expand...

I ran only straight distilled but that isn't the point. I don't know of any blocks with the issues EK has had with the plating, even in the same conditions. I bought the block used so AFAIK I cannot do an RMA. It was used with distilled prior to me owning it. It is mainly just annoying as hell, I got it used because I didn't have another $50 for the heatkiller block at the time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My 7970 EN blocks were nearly new looking after a year of 24/7 use so this issue is definitely a YMMV situation. Don't assume that your misfortune is universal...
> 
> 
> 
> I don't assume it is universal however, I feel EK needs to truly remedy the issue not just say that a new way of plating changes things when it clearly doesn't. It may have lessened the occurrence of the issues but a lower count of issues does not mean it is fixed. I have not ran a thing but distilled in this loop.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> My 7970 EN blocks were nearly new looking after a year of 24/7 use so this issue is definitely a YMMV situation. Don't assume that your misfortune is universal...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't assume your fortune is universal.
> I have not seen any other manu blocks here with anything like that...have you?
> I'm a betting man,I would bet there has not been a coil in there to 'cause' that either.
> 
> Op-contact EK for an RMA
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I ran only straight distilled but that isn't the point. I don't know of any blocks with the issues EK has had with the plating, even in the same conditions. I bought the block used so AFAIK I cannot do an RMA. It was used with distilled prior to me owning it. It is mainly just annoying as hell, I got it used because I didn't have another $50 for the heatkiller block at the time.
Click to expand...

Get it stripped and replated,its not that expensive as they normally stick something that small alongside their main work


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> So this is my EN block after several months, did a teardown to clean my CPU block and change some fans around.
> 
> Wonderful EK quality on these EN blocks. Good thing they fixed the issues with the EN revision. /s


What did you use to clean the block?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> So this is my EN block after several months, did a teardown to clean my CPU block and change some fans around.
> 
> Wonderful EK quality on these EN blocks. Good thing they fixed the issues with the EN revision. /s
> 
> 
> 
> What did you use to clean the block?
Click to expand...

Lemon juice


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> So this is my EN block after several months, did a teardown to clean my CPU block and change some fans around.
> 
> Before Cleaning:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After Cleaning:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful EK quality on these EN blocks. Good thing they fixed the issues with the EN revision. /s


I know how you feel, I've had 4 blocks turn out like that on just distilled water from them. Next time go German for nickel







(if funds permit)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Sorry guys but every single EK nickel block I have ever owned has been nearly flawless so I'll just leave the witch hunting to you guys. They work fine for me apparently...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Sorry guys but every single EK nickel block I have ever owned has been *nearly* flawless so I'll just leave the witch hunting to you guys. They work fine for me apparently...


Only nearly?
You are not everyone,im glad you are happy with your purchases tho,

Where is this witch hunt? All i see is one guy showing a knackered block and another expressing sympathy as he lost 4 blocks.....hardly a witch hunt.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Only nearly?
> You are not everyone,im glad you are happy with your purchases tho,
> 
> Where is this witch hunt? All i see is one guy showing a knackered block and another expressing sympathy as he lost 4 blocks.....hardly a witch hunt.


I must agree, hardly a witch hunt. This seems to have been a real issue for a lot of people and it put me off EK nickel products for a while. Yes, they HAVE gotten much better and I have no problem with EK products now, but it DID happen so I don't see why people shouldn't share their experiences.

In other news, what do you guys think about the new Asus Formula VI board? They did another hybrid air/liquid design for the VRMs but this time went with G1/4 holes instead of those silly little barbs they had on the Formula V. Much better!


----------



## TampaChaz

Down to the boring details to clean up the project. I added an 8 fan PWM expansion board to the case exterior rather than snaking 12 fan cables around my mobo. Cleaned up the mess of cables with some simple slit tube...





Adding the Phobya quick releases to both loops to separate rad box from system for maintenance and such


Almost there


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Adding the Phobya quick releases to both loops to separate rad box from system for maintenance and such


You have seen this thread ? http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?286694-Stren-s-QDC-Roundup&highlight=


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> You have seen this thread ? http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?286694-Stren-s-QDC-Roundup&highlight=


I had not seen this. Thanks.









I will be checking out flow and all that fun stuff during testing and burn in. I take reviews with a grain of salt. Kinda like cinema reviews, what some people like, others hate. In watercooling, what works for some is complete flop for others. I'm running dual loops and there isn't much in the way of restriction so I'm not worried about a lil bit of flow loss, but I will definitely watch it more carefully now.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I had not seen this. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be checking out flow and all that fun stuff during testing and burn in. I take reviews with a grain of salt. Kinda like cinema reviews, what some people like, others hate. In watercooling, what works for some is complete flop for others. I'm running dual loops and there isn't much in the way of restriction so I'm not worried about a lil bit of flow loss, but I will definitely watch it more carefully now.


I tested those myself some time ago and they were seriously restrictive. I wouldn't recommend them to be used as anything else but drain valves


----------



## DarkHollow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> I ran only straight distilled but that isn't the point. I don't know of any blocks with the issues EK has had with the plating, even in the same conditions. I bought the block used so AFAIK I cannot do an RMA. It was used with distilled prior to me owning it. It is mainly just annoying as hell, I got it used because I didn't have another $50 for the heatkiller block at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> Get it stripped and replated,its not that expensive as they normally stick something that small alongside their main work
Click to expand...

Yea I was thinking of maybe just getting it stripped and plated. When I can of course, that or just stripping the interior nickel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> So this is my EN block after several months, did a teardown to clean my CPU block and change some fans around.
> 
> Wonderful EK quality on these EN blocks. Good thing they fixed the issues with the EN revision. /s
> 
> 
> 
> What did you use to clean the block?
Click to expand...

To clean it I actually just used a clean towel to remove the residue. Its really odd it was like the nickel had a layer of copper on it. Really strange, my res had nickel flakes though as did my CPU block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> So this is my EN block after several months, did a teardown to clean my CPU block and change some fans around.
> 
> Wonderful EK quality on these EN blocks. Good thing they fixed the issues with the EN revision. /s
> 
> 
> 
> I know how you feel, I've had 4 blocks turn out like that on just distilled water from them. Next time go German for nickel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (if funds permit)
Click to expand...

Yea, Like I said I will not be buying anything EK new and only bought this used since I didn't have the extra for a Heatkiller. Next time I wont even bother unless its copper. If it isn't I will just wait.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> In other news, what do you guys think about the new Asus Formula VI board? They did another hybrid air/liquid design for the VRMs but this time went with G1/4 holes instead of those silly little barbs they had on the Formula V. Much better!


Hmm I had not seen that. That would be pretty nice. Its 1155 so I could easily swap to it.... If I need an upgrade from this board I know what I want.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I had not seen this. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be checking out flow and all that fun stuff during testing and burn in. *I take reviews with a grain of salt.* Kinda like cinema reviews, what some people like, others hate. In watercooling, what works for some is complete flop for others. I'm running dual loops and there isn't much in the way of restriction so I'm not worried about a lil bit of flow loss, but I will definitely watch it more carefully now.


Stren's reviews are top notch. Using a fitting like that in any loop is going to just cripple flow rate.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> Hmm I had not seen that. That would be pretty nice. Its 1155 so I could easily swap to it.... If I need an upgrade from this board I know what I want.


You mean 1150? (I wish it was 1155 though).

I would probably buy this new board if not for Haswell's craptastic/inconsistent OC performance. Instead I will most likely end up going with X79/4820k for my upcoming build. Ivy-E should be awesome for liquid cooled OCing unless Intel somehow gimps it.

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_VI_FORMULA/#overview


----------



## RickRockerr

Maybe little bit off topic but my first time painting fans







I love gentle typhoon's but I want red/black setup. So here's the results:





I have 6 gentle's but painted only 3 because I cant see rest of them







I will paint them when I get red tubing








In second picture you can see poor pain job on middle fan but I managed to fix it with sand paper and thin layer of paint.


----------



## PinzaC55

/\ /\ /\ Great work. Scythe should offer you a job!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> FYI, you can rotate the pump and the top around so that the wires can be any direction you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that would require you to disassemble the pump and possibly void your warranty.


Yep. But I don't want to void that warranty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Black tape over the sticker perhaps? lol


Nah.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Maybe little bit off topic but my first time painting fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love gentle typhoon's but I want red/black setup. So here's the results:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 6 gentle's but painted only 3 because I cant see rest of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will paint them when I get red tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In second picture you can see poor pain job on middle fan but I managed to fix it with sand paper and thin layer of paint.


Are you sure that's not going to mess up your fans? I've heard that painting fans will jeopardize their functionality. Also, in the last picture what are they mounted on? Those aren't rads are they?

You should join the Painted Hardware Club!


----------



## stickg1

I think I'm done tinkering for a bit. It will likely stay like this for a while.

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/watercoolMVF1_zps42f91082.jpg.html

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/watercoolMVF2_zps0e4e627d.jpg.html

Specs:

3770K @ 4.7GHz
Maximus V Formula Z77
G.Skill Trident X 8GB CL10 2600MHz
EVGA GTX 760 SC ACX w/ EK-VGA Supremacy Bridge Edition Nickel Acetal
Seasonic X-650
256GB Crucial M4
750GB WD Black 2.5"
Fractal Designs Arc Midi R2
XSPC Raystorm
Black Ice GT 240mm w/ P/P Corsair SP120
XSPC RS240mm w/ Thermalright Highs
Swiftech MCP-655B
Bitspower Z-Tank 150mL

A couple of blemishes, I have a final order to place for appropiate fittings. There's a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer on the return line from the GPU to the res because I ran out of 45 deg 1/2" rotary barbs but I had a 3/8" barb and reducer on hand


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Are you sure that's not going to mess up your fans? I've heard that painting fans will jeopardize their functionality. Also, in the last picture what are they mounted on? Those aren't rads are they?
> 
> You should join the Painted Hardware Club!


Mounted on rads. I think that paint doesn't effect to fans if there is thin layer of paint. Just enough to cover the blades. I hold painted gentle on my hand and stock on another, about same vibration and sound level.


----------



## dminzi

I was wondering if anyone can give me some pointers on a custom watercooled setup for my rig thats in my sig nothing to crazy but still better that a prebuilt system for watercooling


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzzdannn*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone can give me some pointers on a custom watercooled setup for my rig thats in my sig nothing to crazy but still better that a prebuilt system for watercooling


Well, is that G45 board you've got acceptable for overclocking?


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Stren's reviews are top notch. Using a fitting like that in any loop is going to just cripple flow rate.


Well I guess I will have to blow another $100 on fittings. It just chaps my ass that companies will continue to sell crap that has been tested to have issues. Why would you sell a product that could potentially damage a person's entire (not to mention expensive) system? Oh wait, never mind. I just remembered, MOST of what we do when we mod voids the warranties on nearly everything so then we have to buy new. Oh well....guess no playing with the new computer for my birthday......MAYBE I will have this done before Christmas. At this rate, it's just MAYBE......


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Was finally able to put up pics of my system! XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 in Arc Midi R2!

Comments and help would be great! I'm worried, because I have no idea how I'm going to empty this loop to take it out without damaging anything. After this, no more bay reservoirs!


----------



## Destrto

That one big long tube in the front could be cleaned up and possibly a fill/drain port placed somewhere along there? Maybe? Just what i see. It looks like it just dangles there, really. That would alleviate the hassle of draining and filling?


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Well, it was dangling because I found that a smaller piece of tubing wouldn't give me room to pull out the res to fill. That's one of the reasons I don't like the bay res. But, I know that there is a drain port on the back of the res, but its still gonna be difficult to get it emptied.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Well, it was dangling because I found that a smaller piece of tubing wouldn't give me room to pull out the res to fill. That's one of the reasons I don't like the bay res. But, I know that there is a drain port on the back of the res, but its still gonna be difficult to get it emptied.


Ahh I see. Its there for a reason then. While looking at it, I had a mental image to use a couple right angle fittings at either end of the tube. I dont know if thats even possible, recommended. Could the bay res be pulled out through the front of the case? Would that make things any easier?


----------



## Daredevil 720

Agreed. This front tube reminds me of a fat man's belly.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

The way it is set up now, yes, it can be pulled out. So when I drain, I won't risk destroying the rest of the rig. I'm gonna look for another res/pump combo, something better. May house it in the middle hdd cage. Hell, it could fit next to the psu, I'm not going to install a fan there.

And yeah, I had wanted to do right angle fittings, but it was coming close for me to go back to school, and I destroyed my thumb by cutting all the way to the bone trying to get a wasted tube off of a barb. Just decided I wasn't going to touch it anymore, lest I cut off my bloody hand next.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> The way it is set up now, yes, it can be pulled out. So when I drain, I won't risk destroying the rest of the rig. I'm gonna look for another res/pump combo, something better. May house it in the middle hdd cage. Hell, it could fit next to the psu, I'm not going to install a fan there.
> 
> And yeah, I had wanted to do right angle fittings, but it was coming close for me to go back to school, and I destroyed my thumb by cutting all the way to the bone trying to get a wasted tube off of a barb. Just decided I wasn't going to touch it anymore, lest I cut off my bloody hand next.


Dang, dangerous work this water cooling is. haha.

Yea I just imagined like, 2 right angle fittings. one at the far end of the radiator to make that tube follow straight along to the res, then possibly the 2nd one at the res to position and allow it to be rotated and maneuvered? Not entirely sure im seeing it correctly in my head.

I'm sure if you placed a right angle fitting at the far end of the radiator it would allow for more tubing to be able to pull the res out of the front.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

lol, that means I made it in my image!


----------



## Darth Scabrous

lol, that means I made it in my image!


----------



## Destrto

I have a question about Reservoir sizes and whats recommended, required. Right now my plan is to create a loop for just my CPU, with the room to upgrade to dual GPU blocks in the future. My question is, more specifically, is there a certain size reservoir I need or should try for? Or are they mostly for looks aesthetics?


----------



## Darth Scabrous

In a loop, I've always understood that the amount of radiators is paramount. While having a bigger res means that it would take longer to heat up, it also means that it would take longer to cool down as well. I would just get bigger/more radiators, and fans with good air pressure.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> In a loop, I've always understood that the amount of radiators is paramount. While having a bigger res means that it would take longer to heat up, it also means that it would take longer to cool down as well. I would just get bigger/more radiators, and fans with good air pressure.


Well, I'm asking because if I dont need a big huge reservoir I'm not going to get one. In the setup I have picked out currently, I just have a regular dual bay res. I was wondering if there was a certain size to shoot for depending on the number of blocks or radiators. Like a number guide to go off of? Example being, if I had 2 radiators and 1 block, per se, i would need approximately 125ml, and for 3 radiators with 2 blocks i would need 250ml. (Just making numbers up).

Is there any kind of guide like that, that you guys work off of when deciding how big of a reservoir to use?


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a question about Reservoir sizes and whats recommended, required. Right now my plan is to create a loop for just my CPU, with the room to upgrade to dual GPU blocks in the future. My question is, more specifically, is there a certain size reservoir I need or should try for? Or are they mostly for looks aesthetics?


Bigger reservoir = more coolant volume = slower heating/cooling of coolant. Nothing to gain in terms of cooling potential however.

Another use for a bigger reservoir is easier loop filling. Using a small reservoir will take lots of power cycles and reservoir filling sessions to get the loop full.

That's all.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Bigger reservoir = more coolant volume = slower heating/cooling of coolant. Nothing to gain in terms of cooling potential however.
> 
> Another use for a bigger reservoir is easier loop filling. Using a small reservoir will take lots of power cycles and reservoir filling sessions to get the loop full.
> 
> That's all.


Simple enough. Thanks.

So if all I wanted was the dual bay reservoir, it's safe to say I would be fine with that?


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Not really a guide. See, at any given point of time, most of your coolant is going to be traveling through the tubing. Think of the res as a rest point in a race. There will be a bit there, but usually not the majority.

As for more cycles, I'm an oddball. I kind of like doing the prep more than anything, so its kinda cool to build up to the point where everything works perfect.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Yeah, a dual bay res should be plenty. But depending on how many things you are cooling, and what case you have, I would maximize cooling area, ie, get more rads.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Not really a guide. See, at any given point of time, most of your coolant is going to be traveling through the tubing. Think of the res as a rest point in a race. There will be a bit there, but usually not the majority.
> 
> As for more cycles, I'm an oddball. I kind of like doing the prep more than anything, so its kinda cool to build up to the point where everything works perfect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Yeah, a dual bay res should be plenty. But depending on how many things you are cooling, and what case you have, I would maximize cooling area, ie, get more rads.


Good to know, and makes sense. I would definitely go more radiators before getting a bigger reservoir. The new case I'm looking at will have room for quite a few. With the largest being a 480mm. But given the layout, I only want a 360 to be my largest. for routing reasons.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Honestly 360s are great. I don't mess with full sized towers, so I've never had a chance to see a 480. That's why I love my comp. I have space for a rad up top, up front, and if I use only ssd and put them behind the motherboard, another one beside the psu. SO MUCH SPACE!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Honestly 360s are great. I don't mess with full sized towers, so I've never had a chance to see a 480. That's why I love my comp. I have space for a rad up top, up front, and if I use only ssd and put them behind the motherboard, another one beside the psu. SO MUCH SPACE!


Check out the Azza Genesis 9000. That will be my next case when school starts.

Room for a 480 in the top, a 360 in the bottom, possibly another 360 in the front. and multiple 120's.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Honestly 360s are great. I don't mess with full sized towers, so I've never had a chance to see a 480. That's why I love my comp. I have space for a rad up top, up front, and if I use only ssd and put them behind the motherboard, another one beside the psu. SO MUCH SPACE!


Lol, you should see my 560!


----------



## lowfat

Newest WIP.


----------



## Pheozero

Speaking of bay reservoirs, do you guys flush that too? If so, how would I do that considering I have compression fittings?


----------



## Ishinomori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Newest WIP.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What board is that?

Nevermind, found it!


----------



## lvlrdka22

Ended up cutting out the bottom where the fan grill is, after finding out how much airflow it reduces







.
I think I'll be upgrading to a 240 on the bottom some time soon. 280 won't fit, at least the fans won't (it'll probably compromise the case integrity as well, since the case is only a little longer than the entire 280 radiator length).
Then it's a 120 on the top whenever time permits.
Then GPU, eventually.


----------



## f33t

Hey folks,

Just recently built my first WCed build, and would love to join!


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Or start with a really good case, then transfer the bits of your old PC into it then gradually upgrade the parts like this guy did.
> 
> This is one of a series he has.


That is exactly what I will be doing. At the moment I am on the waiting list of the water cooling optimized mini itx Compact Splash case. Though it's quite an expensive case, I am totally in love with it and it will hopefully be my entrance into the water cooling world.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> hi
> 
> just finish put plasti-dip on a motherboard and it work
> 
> I really like the finish, pretty similar to bitfenix soft touch
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0068_zpsf8c16315.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0062_zpsc2ea8a7c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/plasti-dip/IMG_0058_zpsaa06e572.jpg.html


That looks incredible! Could you give me some explanation on how you did that without damaging your motherboard? I can afford a can plasti dip but I cannot afford screwing up my motherboard.


----------



## steelkevin

Does anybody here have an i7-860 and P55 motherboard ?

I'm asking because that's what I've got and I feel my temps are way too high for the sort of cooling I've got (second "rig" in my signature, check my default album for pictures).
If anybody still has that CPU it'd really help. that way I can maybe get some proper overclocking advice (I did follow a complete guide and then another one which I preffered but either I'm missing something or my CPU is really a bad overclocker) and I can compare my temps to yours







.

Thanks in advance, would really help a lot.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Does anybody here have an i7-860 and P55 motherboard ?
> 
> I'm asking because that's what I've got and I feel my temps are way too high for the sort of cooling I've got (second "rig" in my signature, check my default album for pictures).
> If anybody still has that CPU it'd really help. that way I can maybe get some proper overclocking advice (I did follow a complete guide and then another one which I preffered but either I'm missing something or my CPU is really a bad overclocker) and I can compare my temps to yours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanks in advance, would really help a lot.


Mine is cooled with a noctua NH-D14 and oced to 3.8 GHz. Hovers 80ºC with 30ºC ambient.


----------



## DarkHollow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> Hmm I had not seen that. That would be pretty nice. Its 1155 so I could easily swap to it.... If I need an upgrade from this board I know what I want.
> 
> 
> 
> You mean 1150? (I wish it was 1155 though).
> 
> I would probably buy this new board if not for Haswell's craptastic/inconsistent OC performance. Instead I will most likely end up going with X79/4820k for my upcoming build. Ivy-E should be awesome for liquid cooled OCing unless Intel somehow gimps it.
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_VI_FORMULA/#overview
Click to expand...

>.> I saw the V didn't realize there was a VI haha Well.... that sucks. Haswell isn't worth it. I would go 2011 vs sidegrading to a Haswell 1150.


----------



## oelkanne

just to throw that into..."reading" over 4000 pages takes time in here









Big THX 4 that Thread and I never know how far the Watercooling-thing become...until now

"Back in the Day´s" sometimes Watercooling looks a littl bit like an Adventure

BTW: I dont like the "WC"because in GoG means Toilet....and i dont want to call my becoming Beauty so....


----------



## PCModderMike

Just adding to this awesome gallery.

Think I shared this one already....but oh well.


----------



## Juthos

Finally installed:


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Just adding to this awesome gallery.
> 
> Think I shared this one already....but oh well.


That's absolutely my next case in black or painted custom. Awesome build.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> That's absolutely my next case in black or painted custom. Awesome build.


Thanks. It's been a great case to work with...when I do my next major hardware upgrade I plan on doing a custom paint job as well.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Just adding to this awesome gallery.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I shared this one already....but oh well.


Liking the black tubes and the dye. Awesome build as usual.


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Newest WIP.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










The hell of a mobo!







keep us updated!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f33t*
> 
> Hey folks,
> 
> Just recently built my first WCed build, and would love to join!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


excellent work









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> Just adding to this awesome gallery.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I shared this one already....but oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]































...kinda looks like you have a natural sponge in your res, but I bet it's not








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Finally installed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks promising. *More pics!*


----------



## HesterDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> That is exactly what I will be doing. At the moment I am on the waiting list of the water cooling optimized mini itx Compact Splash case. Though it's quite an expensive case, I am totally in love with it and it will hopefully be my entrance into the water cooling world.
> That looks incredible! Could you give me some explanation on how you did that without damaging your motherboard? I can afford a can plasti dip but I cannot afford screwing up my motherboard.


Plastidip is non conductive. Just cover the slots and anything you don't want to spray.


----------



## tarkatehen

Hello,

Finished the water cooling in my PC:


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> That is exactly what I will be doing. At the moment I am on the waiting list of the water cooling optimized mini itx Compact Splash case. Though it's quite an expensive case, I am totally in love with it and it will hopefully be my entrance into the water cooling world.
> That looks incredible! Could you give me some explanation on how you did that without damaging your motherboard? I can afford a can plasti dip but I cannot afford screwing up my motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HesterDW*
> 
> Plastidip is non conductive. Just cover the slots and anything you don't want to spray.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

But Plastidip does act as an insulator, so don't paint over parts that create heat.


----------



## SpeedBump613

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Agreed. This front tube reminds me of a fat man's belly.


Or a big smilie face!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Was finally able to put up pics of my system! XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 in Arc Midi R2!
> 
> Comments and help would be great! I'm worried, because I have no idea how I'm going to empty this loop to take it out without damaging anything. After this, no more bay reservoirs!


You could also try turning the radiator 180deg to get rid of the long run from the res? Maybe?


----------



## Darth Scabrous

I couldn't, because it ended up hitting the back fan, and not aligning with the mounts. I could drop to a 120mm fan, but whats the fun in that?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> I couldn't, because it ended up hitting the back fan, and not aligning with the mounts. I could drop to a 120mm fan, but whats the fun in that?


I thought more about how you might clean up that tube hanging there. Still the right angle fitting at the radiator end to keep it up close to the Rad, then at the pump side, 2 right angle fittings to make a "Z" to come up over the drive bay and then bend right back straight into the pump.

That way the long stretch of tubing would still not be arrow straight along that line, but also not be hanging down in front like it is. ANd then you could easily detach the 2 right angle fittings as a makeshift drain port. If that would work?

Just my helpful opinion/suggestion.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Thats...actually a pretty good thing to try. I'll buy a couple of fittings and test it out.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Thats...actually a pretty good thing to try. I'll buy a couple of fittings and test it out.


Really?! Yay! \( '.')/

Haha glad it came off as understandable in writing as it did in my head.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I thought more about how you might clean up that tube hanging there. Still the right angle fitting at the radiator end to keep it up close to the Rad, then at the pump side, 2 right angle fittings to make a "Z" to come up over the drive bay and then bend right back straight into the pump.
> 
> That way the long stretch of tubing would still not be arrow straight along that line, but also not be hanging down in front like it is. ANd then you could easily detach the 2 right angle fittings as a makeshift drain port. If that would work?
> 
> Just my helpful opinion/suggestion.


Another option (not sure if doable in this case):
-front rad fitting to the block then to res/pump
-90 degree for the second outlet on the rad and have the tubing going in the back of the case, going to pump/res


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip of awesome
> 
> 
> 
> Down to the boring details to clean up the project. I added an 8 fan PWM expansion board to the case exterior rather than snaking 12 fan cables around my mobo. Cleaned up the mess of cables with some simple slit tube...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the Phobya quick releases to both loops to separate rad box from system for maintenance and such
> 
> 
> Almost there











I wish my system was that clean...

Current:


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> looks promising. *More pics!*


----------



## joejoe69

Neptune gets EVGA GTX 680s and new cables.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1416170/neptune-nzxt-switch-810-water-cooled-build

http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...1-4967-86af-9fd73ed03d69_zpse12caf83.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...6-4a40-b8c5-cdae8e603ead_zpsbeef7fe7.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1926_zpsd874e5bf.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...f-40f7-8cbf-9c3ed8a177fc_zps8bc182da.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1944_zps3f8bbf39.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1942_zps5ea6db99.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1947_zpsc407bf5b.jpg.html
http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1946_zpsa2bef1c8.jpg.html


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune gets EVGA GTX 680s and new cables.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416170/neptune-nzxt-switch-810-water-cooled-build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...1-4967-86af-9fd73ed03d69_zpse12caf83.jpg.html
> 
> 
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...6-4a40-b8c5-cdae8e603ead_zpsbeef7fe7.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1926_zpsd874e5bf.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...f-40f7-8cbf-9c3ed8a177fc_zps8bc182da.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1944_zps3f8bbf39.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1942_zps5ea6db99.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1947_zpsc407bf5b.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1946_zpsa2bef1c8.jpg.html


So pretty!


----------



## Stickeelion

hey guys, you probably have seen my build log with my rig:


now I ahve a question, I was filling my loop with just distilled water, and I was foolish enough to seal the res and some water bubbled back up out of the funnel (about 1/4 to 1/2 a handful worth) and dropped straight down onto the top of the HDD cage which caught most of it however some splashed up and I noticed some on the GPU backplates and on the bottom of the PC, I was worried some may be on the motherboard (I can't see if there is though) and I have a half filled loop with just distilled and probably some water on the electronics (which were off at the time).

Should I put paper towels in and fill the loop the rest of the way and leak test while I wait a few days for it to dry?
or should I put the whole thing in front of a fan and leave it there for a few days and then proceed to fill it?


----------



## KostVouts

NZXT Phantom 410 Watercooling Build (Black/White theme)


----------



## steelkevin

I don't know how that pump works but if the top is the OUT port then you're entering the CPU by the OUT port instead of the IN (unless on those older blocks IN and OUT were inverted).
If the pump's other port is the OUT one then it probably would be able to pass the reservoir so I'm assuming the top is the OUT port.

I'll go check which is the IN and OUT port for those old EK blocks.

Oh and don't forget to add your specs to your signature









EDIT: yeah, the right one is the outlet and the left one the inlet.
How bad are the temps ?


----------



## jiJa

that res-position would scare the **** out of me


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I don't know how that pump works but if the top is the OUT port then you're entering the CPU by the OUT port instead of the IN (unless on those older blocks IN and OUT were inverted).
> If the pump's other port is the OUT one then it probably would be able to pass the reservoir so I'm assuming the top is the OUT port.
> 
> I'll go check which is the IN and OUT port for those old EK blocks.
> 
> Oh and don't forget to add your specs to your signature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: yeah, the right one is the outlet and the left one the inlet.
> How bad are the temps ?


Nice catch. I did the same mistake when I was leak testing my own loop but hopefully spotted it and fixed it.

It could be easily resolved by rotating the block 180 degrees. The port that's near the center of the block is the inlet, and the outter one is the outlet.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> hey guys, you probably have seen my build log with my rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I ahve a question, I was filling my loop with just distilled water, and I was foolish enough to seal the res and some water bubbled back up out of the funnel (about 1/4 to 1/2 a handful worth) and dropped straight down onto the top of the HDD cage which caught most of it however some splashed up and I noticed some on the GPU backplates and on the bottom of the PC, I was worried some may be on the motherboard (I can't see if there is though) and I have a half filled loop with just distilled and probably some water on the electronics (which were off at the time).
> 
> Should I put paper towels in and fill the loop the rest of the way and leak test while I wait a few days for it to dry?
> or should I put the whole thing in front of a fan and leave it there for a few days and then proceed to fill it?


if you have started finish off the fill, and get a fan running. you can always hit it with some contact cleaner. ( would be best just incase) stop any corrosion.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune gets EVGA GTX 680s and new cables.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416170/neptune-nzxt-switch-810-water-cooled-build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...1-4967-86af-9fd73ed03d69_zpse12caf83.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...6-4a40-b8c5-cdae8e603ead_zpsbeef7fe7.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1926_zpsd874e5bf.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...f-40f7-8cbf-9c3ed8a177fc_zps8bc182da.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1944_zps3f8bbf39.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1942_zps5ea6db99.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1947_zpsc407bf5b.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1946_zpsa2bef1c8.jpg.html


Awesome work. What are the temps. on the HDD?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Om.....nom nom


----------



## Sunreeper

I would never be able to make that with one hand lol.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I would never be able to make that with one hand lol.


Was just going to say this, lol

Good luck B Negative!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I would never be able to make that with one hand lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I would never be able to make that with one hand lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Was just going to say this, lol
> 
> Good luck B Negative!
Click to expand...

Magoo will do the spanner work on this one......


----------



## kcuestag

This is insane, room temperature of 34-35ºC, water in the loop hitting ~46ºC, I can't stand playing like this, I'm going to melt!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> This is insane, room temperature of 34-35ºC, water in the loop hitting ~46ºC, I can't stand playing like this, I'm going to melt!


How do you stand room temps of 35C??????? I think I'd literally just roll over and die......


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> This is insane, room temperature of 34-35ºC, water in the loop hitting ~46ºC, I can't stand playing like this, I'm going to melt!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> How do you stand room temps of 35C??????? I think I'd literally just roll over and die......


This^

That's *HOT!*


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> This is insane, room temperature of 34-35ºC, water in the loop hitting ~46ºC, I can't stand playing like this, I'm going to melt!


Same here, it is absolutely dreadful 

Gets up to 41 on Thursday, I might just melt away.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> This is insane, room temperature of 34-35ºC, water in the loop hitting ~46ºC, I can't stand playing like this, I'm going to melt!


Next upgrade


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Same here, it is absolutely dreadful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gets up to 41 on Thursday, I might just melt away.


Good god







..........

Hope you have some serious AC.........


----------



## wermad

SD, Cali @ ~21°C









@Bneg, thought you didn't like em CL cases


----------



## tengtium

Hi guys,

just want to share some image of my water cooled CM Storm Scout 2.



I need to remove the bay at the front and cut 5.25 bay in order to fit the EK-CoolStream RAD XTX 240 and i bought hdd mounting (3.5 to 5.25) to hold my harddisk.



its a push pull configuration but be noted that the hole of the lower fan of scout is not exact to the hole of the radiator so only the upper fan is securing the radiator..



and then i remove the fan at the back and put my reservoir. as you can see i used two 45 degrees in the intake of the reservoir the reason i can't find 90 degrees fitting here in the philippines









then i use another 45 degree in reservoir outlet going to the EK-DCP 4.0 Pump.



i used another two 45 degrees frown.gif for the intake of the pump and another 45 degrees in the outlet of the pump going to radiator.



if you will mount your pump using the mounting plate included in the kit.. make sure that you mount the plate that it will touch the motherboard try at the back.. because i need to use the two fans of the case cover as exhaust fan.



thanks guys..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> SD, Cali @ ~21°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Bneg, thought you didn't like em CL cases


I dont like the big ones but that S3 is just begging for it.

I need a LAN rig and something to use while im rebuilding teh SR2.









And my Z87 Impact will look baws in there.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> How do you stand room temps of 35C??????? I think I'd literally just roll over and die......


A week ago my room was sitting at 38ºC nicely, it was like a microwave!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Same here, it is absolutely dreadful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gets up to 41 on Thursday, I might just melt away.


Ugh, we had 43ºC the other day, it sucks. Good thing we do have A/C on each room but can't use it much as it's expensive as hell.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Next upgrade


No need, the 3930k @ 4.7GHz never goes above 75ºC (This is with room at +35ºC) and GPU's sit below 55ºC. With normal room temperatures (Let's say 23-24ºC) the CPU never hits above 68ºC and GPU's don't go above 45ºC.

As long as CPU stays below 80ºC and GPU's below 55-60ºC with this crazy summer temperatures I'm happy, plus none of my rads run in push/pull and their fans only run at 900rpm, could improve them 2-3ºC if I bumped fans to 1200-1500 but I like having it quiet.


----------



## lvlrdka22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> now I ahve a question, I was filling my loop with just distilled water, and I was foolish enough to seal the res and some water bubbled back up out of the funnel (about 1/4 to 1/2 a handful worth) and dropped straight down onto the top of the HDD cage which caught most of it however some splashed up and I noticed some on the GPU backplates and on the bottom of the PC, I was worried some may be on the motherboard (I can't see if there is though) and I have a half filled loop with just distilled and probably some water on the electronics (which were off at the time).
> 
> Should I put paper towels in and fill the loop the rest of the way and leak test while I wait a few days for it to dry?
> or should I put the whole thing in front of a fan and leave it there for a few days and then proceed to fill it?


What I always do is not worry about minor splashes, and set all fans to run at max overnight. You don't want to leak test and dry the components at the same time







, destroys the purpose of leak testing.
I'd also dry it first (via fans at max), so it's easier to detect leaks (not that I ever get any).


----------



## Jorj103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Good god
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..........
> 
> Hope you have some serious AC.........


You should all come to Greece at this time.....40 degrees is what we call " a mild summer" ...... here in my city it goes up to 45 -46 degrees in the afternoon and at night it drops to 36 -37 and an AC is just a luxury for most..... we have just got used to it being toooooooo damn hot.....


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> So pretty!


Thanks!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Awesome work. What are the temps. on the HDD?


Thanks, it's at 32C. I originally wanted the Bitspower S350 HDD block but the inlet and outlets of it clashed with my tube routing.


----------



## Kimir

I already hate it here with 28°c with no wind and my proc neither.
I can't imagine how you can resist with 30+ (depend, is it "real feel" temp?







)

/offtopic on
@derickwm, Awww that avatar !

/offtopic off


----------



## Tonky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*










stunning backplates!

did you paint the blocks and backplates yourself?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f33t*
> 
> Hey folks,
> 
> Just recently built my first WCed build, and would love to join!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's an SM8 - get yourself over to the Case Labs club and sign up !! nice build, btw ;-)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*












Love the backplates!! How you do this? There would be about a 0.2% chance I could produce anything half as nice as that but, still curious


----------



## bundymania




----------



## derickwm

Quote:
Originally Posted by *cyphon* 

Quote:
Originally Posted by *derickwm* 

Same here, it is absolutely dreadful









Gets up to 41 on Thursday, I might just melt away.

Good god







..........

Hope you have some serious AC.........

Nope no AC 

Quote:
Originally Posted by *wermad* 

SD, Cali @ ~21°C









:sozo:

Quote:
Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 



> Ugh, we had 43ºC the other day, it sucks. Good thing we do have A/C on each room but can't use it much as it's expensive as hell.


At least you have AC, come Thursday I won't even care about the costs!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I already hate it here with 28°c with no wind and my proc neither.
> I can't imagine how you can resist with 30+ (depend, is it "real feel" temp?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> /offtopic on
> @derickwm, Awww that avatar !
> 
> /offtopic off


hehe 

Also, coming soon:


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Finally installed:










THATS MY BABY I PLAN TO BUILD...UGGGHHH I LOVVVEEE THW XPOWER!!!! I'm building a haswell gaming rig...4770k and it will b nicely sitting on the MSi Z87 XPower..... cant wait, using CLC though because I'm lazy and I want MINIMUM maintenance... sweet rig


----------



## Pheozero

So is it me or is Primochill Advanced a giant pain in the ass to install with compression fittings?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

I find it is also with 3/8 5/8 and monsoon compression fittings


----------



## Darth Scabrous

I won't use them. Have they fixed the problem with the plasticizer in the tubing?


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I find it is also with 3/8 5/8 and monsoon compression fittings


I found it very hard to get over bitspower compression fittings too


----------



## sate200




----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## PCModderMike

^


----------



## HesterDW

This is really cliche but...

:O


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonky*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stunning backplates!
> 
> did you paint the blocks and backplates yourself?











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the backplates!! How you do this? There would be about a 0.2% chance I could produce anything half as nice as that but, still curious


I painted them and then i made acrylic stickers with a plotter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THATS MY BABY I PLAN TO BUILD...UGGGHHH I LOVVVEEE THW XPOWER!!!! I'm building a haswell gaming rig...4770k and it will b nicely sitting on the MSi Z87 XPower..... cant wait, using CLC though because I'm lazy and I want MINIMUM maintenance... sweet rig


Thanks, mine is the x79 version and it rocks. Good choice


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*


My rig just turned green


----------



## ridgey1112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune gets EVGA GTX 680s and new cables.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416170/neptune-nzxt-switch-810-water-cooled-build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...1-4967-86af-9fd73ed03d69_zpse12caf83.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...6-4a40-b8c5-cdae8e603ead_zpsbeef7fe7.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1926_zpsd874e5bf.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/jo...f-40f7-8cbf-9c3ed8a177fc_zps8bc182da.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1944_zps3f8bbf39.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1942_zps5ea6db99.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1947_zpsc407bf5b.jpg.html
> http://s183.photobucket.com/user/joejoe69_album/media/IMG_1946_zpsa2bef1c8.jpg.html


Epic build man.
Love it.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ridgey1112*
> 
> Epic build man.
> Love it.


Thanks!!


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I find it is also with 3/8 5/8 and monsoon compression fittings


Really? I currently have the same tubing in 1/2 3/4 with EK compression fittings and I was thinking about switching to 3/8 5/8 and Monsoons. If it's the same PITA I should better avoid it. As much as I love the looks of this tubing I also love my fingers, my nerves and my free time.

Only thing that stops me from going acrylic is the outrageously priced fittings.

What's some good (no plasticizer issues) tubing to get instead? Durelene has good reputation but it's non-existant outside the US.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## bundymania




----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Awesome work.


----------



## oelkanne

U know that moment when think...FUUUUUUUUUUU


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New log.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/cl0s3-impact/0_20


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Well, it was dangling because I found that a smaller piece of tubing wouldn't give me room to pull out the res to fill. That's one of the reasons I don't like the bay res. But, I know that there is a drain port on the back of the res, but its still gonna be difficult to get it emptied.


Try turning the rad so the fittings are at the front and closer to res, it might help shorten your tubing


----------



## sate200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> 
> Thanks!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Really? I currently have the same tubing in 1/2 3/4 with EK compression fittings and I was thinking about switching to 3/8 5/8 and Monsoons. If it's the same PITA I should better avoid it. As much as I love the looks of this tubing I also love my fingers, my nerves and my free time.
> 
> Only thing that stops me from going acrylic is the outrageously priced fittings.
> 
> What's some good (no plasticizer issues) tubing to get instead? Durelene has good reputation but it's non-existant outside the US.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> Awesome work.


thanks!!!


----------



## Egami

It sure sucks when everything's dependent on that one bit that causes the whole project's body work to queue.









I know this is a bit of an ot but since many of you here have done extensive mods I figured I'd ask you anyway: What should I be looking when buying a soldering station? The plan is to do some basic work on leds and related cabling while waiting for the hardware to sort itself out.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New log.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/cl0s3-impact/0_20
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## By-Tor

New Toy..

I've been running 2 closed loops for 4 years in my rig and wanted to reroute my tubing and thought I would give this res. a try.

Cheers to Gary @ Sidewinder..

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_1864_zpsa92ed273.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_1865_zps14eb5fcc.jpg.html


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Try turning the rad so the fittings are at the front and closer to res, it might help shorten your tubing


He's already responded explaing why he cannot do that..


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> U know that moment when think...FUUUUUUUUUUU
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not really sure what Im looking at, are the ram blocks getting in the way of the gpu?


----------



## MenaceX




----------



## stickg1

Is that dual loops?


----------



## oelkanne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> I'm not really sure what Im looking at, are the ram blocks getting in the way of the gpu?


Jepp...if i try to stick my first grafik in the firts Slot then it hits the Ramblocks....hopefully my system runs with my cards in Slot 2+4 ....


----------



## JohnnyEars

Since I have had upgrades, it's time to pass stuff on down the line..

I passed on my old AMD 1090T, meh motherboard, 2x 4gb corsair vengeance and my old GTX 470 to my son.
I also added my ex XSPC dual bay reservoir/pump, a rs360 rad, a rs240 rad (roof mounted on XSPC brackets)
A rasa cpu block, an Aquacomputer GPU block, EK backplate.. and used 5/8 hose on 1/2 barb fittings - so no need for clamps.
plus 5 coolermaster led fans (running at 7v for silence er, well you know..)
I'm hoping to do a side window mod tomorrow if I get a chance. But it looks like I'll have to use the back panel because the fan perforations are right on the edge of where I need to cut on the front one..

The build is just for fun, so no fancy cabling lol

And I also passed on his old triple core amd in a mobo to a very grateful chap who's been a bit down on his luck.. so it's all good


----------



## cky2k6

Here's a shot of my work in progress. The cables are temporary until my psu gets sleeved. Also gotta replace that fan, its kinda old and ugly.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Here's a shot of my work in progress. The cables are temporary until my psu gets sleeved.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does your res cause the liquid to swirl like that? or is it painted on there? Either way, looks pretty friggin' sweet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Here's a shot of my work in progress. The cables are temporary until my psu gets sleeved.


This confirms my suspicion of what pastel will do to my lovely FrozenQ res. Just needed a pic to confirm this. If I do switch to pastel, it'll have to go sadly









Sweet looking rig. Is that the standard pastel or adding/added any additional dye?


----------



## cky2k6

Its ice white with ocean blue dye, which I had from when I was intent on making two different colored loops. Decided to just stick with a blue pastel, I don't think the frozenq looks too weird with it. Destro, those swirls are from the tube inside the res.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Its ice white with ocean blue dye, which I had from when I was intent on making two different colored loops. Decided to just stick with a blue pastel, I don't think the frozenq looks too weird with it. Destro, those swirls are from the tube inside the res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ahh, ok gotcha.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Its ice white with ocean blue dye, which I had from when I was intent on making two different colored loops. Decided to just stick with a blue pastel, I don't think the frozenq looks too weird with it. Destro, those swirls are from the tube inside the res.


It will still have to go due to my rads will be re positioned (and lack of space in my case). I love the frozenq res but pastel won't show it off. Lame







. On the plus side, selling it will completely cover my cost of going hard acrylic tubing.


----------



## Ishinomori

I think it looks sweet, decisions decisions.


----------



## spikezone2004

Just finished my first custom loop, hopefully it doesnt look too bad.

I left the cables from the rad a little longer to avoid any kinks and less sharp of a turn to keep the flow going. If anyone has any suggestions on how it looks let me know









Also, I didnt put the kill coil in the tubing I saw a video where people put there kill coil in the res, is that an ok place to put it?


----------



## Ishinomori

Double post, stupid phone.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Here's a shot of my work in progress. The cables are temporary until my psu gets sleeved. Also gotta replace that fan, its kinda old and ugly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks really good mate. I like the blue and copper, it's different and the res looks really good too.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sate200*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not a fan of those LD cases but that looks real good, be proud of that thing for sure.


----------



## thestache

Might finally have a rig in a case soon and not one laying on bubble wrap...


----------



## lvlrdka22

Now my ITX rig has a 240mm radiator on the bottom (instead of original 140mm) and a 140mm in the front! Bleeding and drying the components at the moment, we'll see tomorrow morning.
I was going to paint it metallic/silverish, but the color didn't come out how I wanted it to be, so I had to sand it all off since I didn't want an ugly-looking thing hidden under my desk







. Right now, the plan is to paint it red (or something, but most likely red) and fit a 120mm radiator on top over the winter.
I'm going to paint the side panels (prime them tomorrow, paint on Friday) to see how they come out.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Just finished my first custom loop, hopefully it doesnt look too bad.
> 
> I left the cables from the rad a little longer to avoid any kinks and less sharp of a turn to keep the flow going. If anyone has any suggestions on how it looks let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I didnt put the kill coil in the tubing I saw a video where people put there kill coil in the res, is that an ok place to put it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just wondering, why didn't you squeeze that rad down in the bottom ?


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Just finished my first custom loop, hopefully it doesnt look too bad.
> 
> I left the cables from the rad a little longer to avoid any kinks and less sharp of a turn to keep the flow going. If anyone has any suggestions on how it looks let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I didnt put the kill coil in the tubing I saw a video where people put there kill coil in the res, is that an ok place to put it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Just wondering, why didn't you squeeze that rad down in the bottom ?


I was wondering the same thing. Would look a lot cleaner if the rad was at the bottom and the fans at the top, and shorter tube runs.


----------



## derickwm

Alright ladies... for all of you that have been waiting patiently:


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Just wondering, why didn't you squeeze that rad down in the bottom ?


It looks to me as though the rad would leave no room for the PSU cables if it was in the bottom. There seems to be plenty of room for a 200mm rad in push/pull though?


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alright... for all of you that have been waiting patiently:












Just for that block I want that mobo


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> It looks to me as though the rad would leave no room for the PSU cables if it was in the bottom. There seems to be plenty of room for a 200mm rad in push/pull though?


It would leave enough room but I understand what you're saying. That's why I used the word "squeeze"







.


----------



## tiborrr12

Derick is a tard. I told him to take a photo yet he turns the badge incorrectly!


----------



## derickwm

Wasn't me who applied the badge, I'll give you two guesses who it was and the first doesn't count


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3farious*
> 
> My build is pretty much done. Check it out for more pics.
> 
> 
> Water System by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
> 
> 
> Left Side by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr


Is that a serial or a parallel bridge for those GPU's?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Derick is a tard. I told him to take a photo yet he turns the badge incorrectly!


Bwahahahahahah!

Where you been Niko?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Wasn't me who applied the badge, I'll give you two guesses who it was and the first doesn't count


Peter?


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Is that a serial or a parallel bridge for those GPU's?


It's a parallel bridge.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Bought an XT45 240mm rad locally for $20, brandnew!









Installed it tonight in my 800d:


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Bought an XT45 240mm rad locally for $20, brandnew!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed it tonight in my 800d:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You lucky guy!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Bought an XT45 240mm rad locally for $20, brandnew!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed it tonight in my 800d:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> You lucky guy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

^This. Sweet deal!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its arrived!!


----------



## derickwm

Off topic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Off topic


Aw Derick,jealousy only stings for a while.....


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Is that a serial or a parallel bridge for those GPU's?
> 
> 
> 
> It's a parallel bridge.
Click to expand...

Im looking to get 2 EK VGA supremacy's bridge editions and the parallel bridge for my 2 6850's. Then I can put any future graphics cards (Whatever is next for the red team at a 6850-70 level) under water when they arrive!


----------



## derickwm

I have this waiting for me at home


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have this waiting for me at home


Looks like a otaku filco









love mine


----------



## Pebruska

Which would be better Black Ice GTS 120 and GTX 240(or gts 240 with P/P) or something with lower FPI, fans would be either AP-15 @5v/7v or e-loops b12-3(Or do you recommend something else)
I know that those rads have extremely high fpi (and that gtx240 has "only" 20 fpi), but the fins are only 25 microns thick so there's little more room for air to move. So any comments/ideas?


----------



## Sasame87

Just finished my W/C loop based around a Swiftech H220. MIght add gpu blocks in soon once i receive my water chiller to add into my loop. bust first im going to swapp out my mobo with a triple sli board then get a third gtx 680.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sasame87*
> 
> Just finished my W/C loop based around a Swiftech H220. MIght add gpu blocks in soon once i receive my water chiller to add into my loop. bust first im going to swapp out my mobo with a triple sli board then get a third gtx 680.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice!


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sasame87*
> 
> Just finished my W/C loop based around a Swiftech H220. MIght add gpu blocks in soon once i receive my water chiller to add into my loop. bust first im going to swapp out my mobo with a triple sli board then get a third gtx 680.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet looking rig, once i get mine built in a few weeks, i will post pics, CANT WAIT!!! going to be running H100i with 4 Cougar Vortexs in push/pull config on radiator, 2 EVGA GTX Superclocked ACX Cooled 4GB 770s in SLI, alll sitting sexily in my Xpower enclosed in a Rosewill Black Hawk Ultra case XDXDXD


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Sweet looking rig, once i get mine built in a few weeks, i will post pics, CANT WAIT!!! going to be running H100i with 4 Cougar Vortexs in push/pull config on radiator, 2 EVGA GTX Superclocked ACX Cooled 4GB 770s in SLI, alll sitting sexily in my Xpower enclosed in a Rosewill Black Hawk Ultra case XDXDXD


You forgot to hide all of those pics in a spoiler


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> You forgot to hide all of those pics in a spoiler


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might finally have a rig in a case soon and not one laying on bubble wrap...


what is it mad from if that's steel it will way a ton
but looking good at first glance it looks like someone has sliced 1/4 inch of the top of a engine block


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> what is it mad from if that's steel it will way a ton
> but looking good at first glance it looks like someone has sliced 1/4 inch of the top of a engine block


Its acetal









Picked up 24' of acrylic tube for $7







. Ordered primochill fittings and mayhems pastel


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do not quote pics without a spoiler,one pic per quote can be left visible,the rest get spoilered.


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its acetal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason I ask is the color and its got that old look going on if you now what I mean still


----------



## Illuminati

All done!


----------



## B3L13V3R

I guess I should post this PIA rig in here too...











Tight squeeze...



Info:

GPU stress load is around *63C-65C* @ *1920 x 1080*, and all games so far sit at *57C* max using @ *5760 x 1080*




This has been a frustrating build with more issues with NEW hardware than I care to explain. 3 RMA's, water leak from AIO res, cable management nightmare, crappy airflow from a crappy case. Bah...

It's fast though and OC's well for what it is. I got some nice GPU's for being 4GB versions. These things don't normally OC well at all...




Really need to go custom for this...


----------



## Ishinomori

What 4gb cards did you go?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> What 4gb cards did you go?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121659


----------



## roflcopter159

So, I am planning on doing a modding/watercooling project on my silver 600T, and I need some advice. I am planning on putting a 360mm radiator in the top of my case and use a double 5.25" bay reservoir and pump. So far, this is my parts list:
(Prices do not include shipping)

XSPC Raystorm 750 RS360 Kit ($162.99)
Lamptron FC5V2 Fan Controller ($53)
6 Corsair SP120 High Performance Fans ($83.97)
2 1/2"x3/4" Black Alphacool Compression 45 Degree Rotary Fittings ($19.98)
4 1/2"x3/4" Black Bitspower Compression Fittings ($37.96)
6 Feet of Black PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2"x3/4" Onyx Black Tubing ($16.50)
2 Packages of PrimoChill 3/4" OD Glossy Red Anti-Kink Coils ($7.98)
ModSmart 20 2-pin LED Control Board ($15.95)
Tailed Red 5mm LED with 2-Pin Connection ($2)
4 Tailed Red 3mm LEDs with 2-Pin Connection ($8)
So now for my thought process. The XSPC combo is decently priced allowing me to spend some money on parts to customize their kit. The 360mm radiator is a bit overkill for just one overclocked FX-8350, but it will allow me to add a GPU block when I get the money for it. The fan controller will be able to power the two rows of fans on the radiator as well as the front 200mm and rear 120mm fans in my case. I have heard that the SP120 High Performance fans are great and will match my case colors. The 45 Degree rotary compressions will go on the CPU block. The straight compressions will go on the radiator and pump/reservoir. I decided to change out the barbs for compression because I am not sure I trust barbs to not leak, plus these are black, much better for my build than the chrome barbs XSPC provides. I don't know much about the different tubing brands out there, so I decided to just use the one FrozenCPU has. If someone has a different suggestion, they are definitely welcome. As for the Anti-Kink, I know they are not really necessary, but I added them in for purely aesthetic purposes. Also, the length for those two are what I saw in XSPC's included list from the kit and from the Anti-Kink's description page. The LED control board has way too many ports on it, but its the cheapest that FrozenCPU has with a 4 pin power. The LEDs are to replace the blue ones that come in XSPC's kit for the reservoir and CPU block. Finally, I want to put in a drain and a fill port as it seems those would be highly convenient. If someone has suggestions on which fittings to use and where to put them, that would be awesome.

Here is my plan on where things will go. Suggestions on ways to change this up to be more efficient?


So, what do you think? Should I revamp the list completely? Are there certain parts I should reconsider? General suggestions?


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Just wondering, why didn't you squeeze that rad down in the bottom ?


I was going too but I felt like it was a very tight fit, would of only been an inch clearance to my hdd bays felt like it would be squashed in there


----------



## ginger_nuts

Has anyone had experience with this, *Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic 12V DC Pump* ?

I was thinking of using the *Alphacool Repack Dual DC-LT 5.25 Single Bay V1* to run two in series.

What is or are peoples thoughts?


----------



## Ishinomori

I have no personal experience of the alphacool fittings, but I have heard they are prone to leaking, if money is an issue? Look to angled barbs perhaps?


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> So, I am planning on doing a modding/watercooling project on my silver 600T, and I need some advice. I am planning on putting a 360mm radiator in the top of my case and use a double 5.25" bay reservoir and pump. So far, this is my parts list:
> (Prices do not include shipping)
> 
> XSPC Raystorm 750 RS360 Kit ($162.99)
> Lamptron FC5V2 Fan Controller ($53)
> 6 Corsair SP120 High Performance Fans ($83.97)
> 2 1/2"x3/4" Black Alphacool Compression 45 Degree Rotary Fittings ($19.98)
> 4 1/2"x3/4" Black Bitspower Compression Fittings ($37.96)
> 6 Feet of Black PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2"x3/4" Onyx Black Tubing ($16.50)
> 2 Packages of PrimoChill 3/4" OD Glossy Red Anti-Kink Coils ($7.98)
> ModSmart 20 2-pin LED Control Board ($15.95)
> Tailed Red 5mm LED with 2-Pin Connection ($2)
> 4 Tailed Red 3mm LEDs with 2-Pin Connection ($8)
> So now for my thought process. The XSPC combo is decently priced allowing me to spend some money on parts to customize their kit. The 360mm radiator is a bit overkill for just one overclocked FX-8350, but it will allow me to add a GPU block when I get the money for it. The fan controller will be able to power the two rows of fans on the radiator as well as the front 200mm and rear 120mm fans in my case. I have heard that the SP120 High Performance fans are great and will match my case colors. The 45 Degree rotary compressions will go on the CPU block. The straight compressions will go on the radiator and pump/reservoir. I decided to change out the barbs for compression because I am not sure I trust barbs to not leak, plus these are black, much better for my build than the chrome barbs XSPC provides. I don't know much about the different tubing brands out there, so I decided to just use the one FrozenCPU has. If someone has a different suggestion, they are definitely welcome. As for the Anti-Kink, I know they are not really necessary, but I added them in for purely aesthetic purposes. Also, the length for those two are what I saw in XSPC's included list from the kit and from the Anti-Kink's description page. The LED control board has way too many ports on it, but its the cheapest that FrozenCPU has with a 4 pin power. The LEDs are to replace the blue ones that come in XSPC's kit for the reservoir and CPU block. Finally, I want to put in a drain and a fill port as it seems those would be highly convenient. If someone has suggestions on which fittings to use and where to put them, that would be awesome.
> 
> Here is my plan on where things will go. Suggestions on ways to change this up to be more efficient?
> 
> 
> So, what do you think? Should I revamp the list completely? Are there certain parts I should reconsider? General suggestions?


rad will not fit, because of the shape at the end, you need rad like Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm or Magicool SLIM TRIPLE 360 Radiator......


----------



## roflcopter159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So, I am planning on doing a modding/watercooling project on my silver 600T, and I need some advice. I am planning on putting a 360mm radiator in the top of my case and use a double 5.25" bay reservoir and pump. So far, this is my parts list:
> (Prices do not include shipping)
> 
> XSPC Raystorm 750 RS360 Kit ($162.99)
> Lamptron FC5V2 Fan Controller ($53)
> 6 Corsair SP120 High Performance Fans ($83.97)
> 2 1/2"x3/4" Black Alphacool Compression 45 Degree Rotary Fittings ($19.98)
> 4 1/2"x3/4" Black Bitspower Compression Fittings ($37.96)
> 6 Feet of Black PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2"x3/4" Onyx Black Tubing ($16.50)
> 2 Packages of PrimoChill 3/4" OD Glossy Red Anti-Kink Coils ($7.98)
> ModSmart 20 2-pin LED Control Board ($15.95)
> Tailed Red 5mm LED with 2-Pin Connection ($2)
> 4 Tailed Red 3mm LEDs with 2-Pin Connection ($8)
> So now for my thought process. The XSPC combo is decently priced allowing me to spend some money on parts to customize their kit. The 360mm radiator is a bit overkill for just one overclocked FX-8350, but it will allow me to add a GPU block when I get the money for it. The fan controller will be able to power the two rows of fans on the radiator as well as the front 200mm and rear 120mm fans in my case. I have heard that the SP120 High Performance fans are great and will match my case colors. The 45 Degree rotary compressions will go on the CPU block. The straight compressions will go on the radiator and pump/reservoir. I decided to change out the barbs for compression because I am not sure I trust barbs to not leak, plus these are black, much better for my build than the chrome barbs XSPC provides. I don't know much about the different tubing brands out there, so I decided to just use the one FrozenCPU has. If someone has a different suggestion, they are definitely welcome. As for the Anti-Kink, I know they are not really necessary, but I added them in for purely aesthetic purposes. Also, the length for those two are what I saw in XSPC's included list from the kit and from the Anti-Kink's description page. The LED control board has way too many ports on it, but its the cheapest that FrozenCPU has with a 4 pin power. The LEDs are to replace the blue ones that come in XSPC's kit for the reservoir and CPU block. Finally, I want to put in a drain and a fill port as it seems those would be highly convenient. If someone has suggestions on which fittings to use and where to put them, that would be awesome.
> 
> Here is my plan on where things will go. Suggestions on ways to change this up to be more efficient?
> 
> 
> So, what do you think? Should I revamp the list completely? Are there certain parts I should reconsider? General suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rad will not fit, because of the shape at the end, you need rad like Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm or Magicool SLIM TRIPLE 360 Radiator......
Click to expand...

So, I am going to have to find a new rad, pump, res, and block. Do you have any suggestions for those? Ideally able to keep the cost closer to the $163 that the XSPC kit was?


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Has anyone had experience with this, *Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic 12V DC Pump* ?
> 
> I was thinking of using the *Alphacool Repack Dual DC-LT 5.25 Single Bay V1* to run two in series.
> 
> What is or are peoples thoughts?


Check out http://www.overclock.net/t/1253497/alphacool-dc-lt-ceramic-and-dual-dc-lt-5-25-single-bay-station-unboxing-pictures/90_30#post_20462921

Helped me a lot, cheers.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> what is it mad from if that's steel it will way a ton
> but looking good at first glance it looks like someone has sliced 1/4 inch of the top of a engine block


It's 10mm acetal sheet cnc machined. Love the machined look so made a case that would match my acetal/copper clean EK blocks for a different themed build.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-mod-build-log-custom-cnc-machined-acetal-test-bench-gtx-titans-ek-watercooled-19mm-tubing


----------



## lvlrdka22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lvlrdka22*
> 
> Now my ITX rig has a 240mm radiator on the bottom (instead of original 140mm) and a 140mm in the front! Bleeding and drying the components at the moment, we'll see tomorrow morning.
> I was going to paint it metallic/silverish, but the color didn't come out how I wanted it to be, so I had to sand it all off since I didn't want an ugly-looking thing hidden under my desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Right now, the plan is to paint it red (or something, but most likely red) and fit a 120mm radiator on top over the winter.
> I'm going to paint the side panels (prime them tomorrow, paint on Friday) to see how they come out.





I have slain (mostly, it's about 87% dead) the cable spaghetti monster!
New case feet is supposed to arrive today, but UPS is still stuck at origin scan







.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lvlrdka22*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have slain (mostly, it's about 87% dead) the cable spaghetti monster!
> New case feet is supposed to arrive today, but UPS is still stuck at origin scan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Half your build is nearly hard drives. Lol.

Looks good though.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Check out http://www.overclock.net/t/1253497/alphacool-dc-lt-ceramic-and-dual-dc-lt-5-25-single-bay-station-unboxing-pictures/90_30#post_20462921
> 
> Helped me a lot, cheers.


Cheers for that, it seems they have had their problems.

Can anyone suggest a good low foot print / volume res+pump setup? Will be doing a CPU + GPU (maybe two) + 2x Rads and maybe a ram or MB block.

Don't want dual bay, I am doing a build in a CM690 III.


----------



## kcuestag

Quick newbie question, I want to get a Watercool Heatkiller bridge/link for my GPU's as I currently use tubing instead.

Which would I need out of these two?

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/10196

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/10198

I use 2 cards, with enough space to fit a third one between them, so I believe there's a 1 PCI-e slot separation between them:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I think the ideal would be the smaller one (GPU-X Dual-Link), but I want someone to confirm it for me before I actually order it. Another question is, does this bridge do parallel cooling or serial? Just curious, not like it matters to me.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Check out http://www.overclock.net/t/1253497/alphacool-dc-lt-ceramic-and-dual-dc-lt-5-25-single-bay-station-unboxing-pictures/90_30#post_20462921
> 
> Helped me a lot, cheers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Cheers for that, it seems they have had their problems.
> 
> Can anyone suggest a good low foot print / volume res+pump setup? Will be doing a CPU + GPU (maybe two) + 2x Rads and maybe a ram or MB block.
> 
> Don't want dual bay, I am doing a build in a CM690 III.


Hey GN the bay res version does have it's issues







I got one with a single pump from OCAU forums a little while ago and it definitely needs the proper o ring to work properly. The single pump and plexi top is a little killer as in DAMM Quiet







Got one in my server








It does have a res top that screws to the top of the plexi top as well.

let me know if you want to look at some time before you buy

http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/alphacool-reservoir-for-dc-lt-pump/

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?2850-The-ALPHACOOL-REPACK-SINGLE-5-25-quot-Drive-Bay-amp-2-x-DC-LT-PUMPS-BUNDLE&p=29626#post29626


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Kimir

From this pic I'd say the dual will not be good. (On the rampage IV we use the slot one and four but there is no 2nd slot like the following pic, so we are in fact using the Ast and 5th).

But owners of the GPU-X will know better.


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exek*
> 
> Hey everyone from mother Russia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After like two months of research, ordering and stuff... here is result - my first custom loop.


I love how that 'grill' on the ram cooler looks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Can you spoiler quoted pic please,leave one for display but spoiler the rest.
Thanks.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> From this pic I'd say the dual will not be good. (On the rampage IV we use the slot one and four but there is no 2nd slot like the following pic, so we are in fact using the Ast and 5th).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But owners of the GPU-X will know better.


If you check my picture, you can see that I use slot 1 and 4, so there's 2 slots between the cards (One used for sound card







), and that image says Dual-Link X is fine for slots 1 and 4.

I'll wait for someone to confirm it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ooo pretty.


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone has a clue about my question above regarding the Watercool GPU links/bridges? I need to know it for sure TODAY as I'm placing the order within few hours.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> If you check my picture, you can see that I use slot 1 and 4, so there's 2 slots between the cards (One used for sound card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), and that image says Dual-Link X is fine for slots 1 and 4.
> 
> I'll wait for someone to confirm it.


Yes, we are using (I'm in SLI with RIVE too) slot 1 and 4 but those numbers are from Asus, the slot 2 from the pic I posted (only multilink XL one) is non existent on the RIVE, the spacing is there tho.
You'd better have a confirmation before purchase, ask the shop maybe they can confirm.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, we are using (I'm in SLI with RIVE too) slot 1 and 4 but those numbers are from Asus, the slot 2 from the pic I posted (only multilink XL one) is non existent on the RIVE, the spacing is there tho.
> You'd better have a confirmation before purchase, ask the shop maybe they can confirm.


You're right, I didn't notice until now, that our board has no slot right below the first one (Where my 1st GPU is) so according to that Watercool picture, my 2nd GPU would be considered te be in slot "5".

Edit:

A friend just told me he has the Multi-Link and it's as big as a "Tri-SLI" bridge from ASUS motherboards, and that's the space between my cards (I used a tri-sli bridge when I had my 680 SLI), so I guess the Multi-Link is the right choice indeed.

Thank you for the help *Kimir*, much appreciated.


----------



## skyhigh2004

I would personally get the largest link. I have purchased all three now since I keep adding GPUs. I also have a RIVE and the largest link now and it just fits with 4 GPUs. The difference in price isn't enough to justify the small one if you think you may ever upgrade.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

S3 with 400mm BP res....such a diddy case...


----------



## wthenshaw

Just been pointed here, lovely set ups guys!

Here's my (in progress) water cooled Raspberry Pi for you guys to poke fun at







feel free to check out the build log in my sig if it interests you


----------



## Sasame87

I would do the H100i i had one and they sux big time. at least with the h220 you can add on to them and there ultra quiet even at full rpms. plus they are cheaper for the better performance


----------



## Ehpik

I just want to join the club, so I'm going to post a picture of my "completed" rig.


----------



## Shogon

Finally fixed my problem! Apparently when I had it originally setup water was completely bypassing the 2nd card, I knew it wasn't a bad mount because temps would drop dramatically after a few seconds and then rise. Now, it's all set and working nicely







and not too bad temps either, maybe the Gelid GC Extreme does a little better then MX4.

Current temps while folding are 47, 45, and 47C. The card that is running lower temp wise is in the middle, which is also my 61% ASIC Titan that needs +104, the other 2 are both 72 and 79% ASIC (maybe explains why they run a bit warmer). All cards at 1097 MHz 6250 MHz on the memory with EK SE blocks. Sold 2 of my XXLs to a local guy for his 780s, but I kept the backplates







. Unfortunately I started the WUs last night (when I was having all the temp and water flow issues) but now they will get done.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> S3 with 400mm BP res....such a diddy case...


I want that wallpaper...


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You guys need to sell a 250mL version of those X-Res pump top/res. 100/140 is just so tiny


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ooo pretty.


Yeah... I actually got a little thirsty looking at those shots...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> You guys need to sell a 250mL version of those X-Res pump top/res. 100/140 is just so tiny


^ THIS ^


----------



## wermad

First attempt and bending


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> First attempt and bending
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can stop that pinching look before and after each bend if you heat a wider section.

Nice first attempt tho.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> First attempt and bending
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not bad for your first


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can stop that pinching look before and after each bend if you heat a wider section.
> 
> Nice first attempt tho.


I figured I was just heating one area, so Ill give that a try. Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Not bad for your first


Thanks. Got some practicing to do this weekend


----------



## szeged

pics of new build when it was just getting set up





plan on converting it to hard acrylic when EK releases blocks for the maximus hero board.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

OK Panic time!!! Bitspower D5 Res adapter top here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37573
I know it shows one hole in the bottom square one, but it has two right? So it matches up to the V2 D5 pump top in/out... Otherwise you would have to put your "in" on the top (of the res) and "out" around the bottom...
I'm troubled by this...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> OK Panic time!!! Bitspower D5 Res adapter top here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37573
> I know it shows one hole in the bottom square one, but it has two right? So it matches up to the V2 D5 pump top in/out... Otherwise you would have to put your "in" on the top (of the res) and "out" around the bottom...
> I'm troubled by this...


Just has 1 actual hole.

Not all that compatible with the V2 top, if you want to use the inlet on the top of the pump top.

It does however have a blind tapped hole with an o-ring that the little short bit of acrylic rod in the pictures screws into so when you remove that inlet cap, it stays sealed and precludes the air pocket.

You have to use a side inlet on the pump top, (without the little acrylic bit) or the top of the res as the 2 possible inlet points.

I always get a 3 port top so I have better top port options, but I like that res setup a lot and use it frequently.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1161&products_id=36970

And always go with the bigger ported diversion fitting instead of the little bugger that comes with it:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=30181

Darlene

Maybe a pic will help:


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Thanks Darlene. I have the Z Tank already... So I guess I'll be going back to the drawing board.... Those three ports could be in/out and drain... anywho, thanks again!


----------



## spikezone2004

On radiators is there an in and out? I was just thinking about this, I figured a radiator has water flow through it and that both ways are the same so I just picked one side for my in and the other for my out.

I have the RX240 I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't a specific in and out.


----------



## briddell

Glamor shot of my MCP355, with Petra's top, and MDPC-X


----------



## cyphon

Anyone know of anywhere that has Orange cathodes?????


----------



## lowfat

For Flashback Friday







. Never posted this one before.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/IMG_0971-1.jpg.html


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> For Flashback Friday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Never posted this one before.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/IMG_0971-1.jpg.html


I feel as if I should have a clever comment for this, but instead I'll ask the obvious question of why your PC was there?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> On radiators is there an in and out? I was just thinking about this, I figured a radiator has water flow through it and that both ways are the same so I just picked one side for my in and the other for my out.
> 
> I have the RX240 I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't a specific in and out.


No rads don't. They are symmetrical.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> No rads don't. They are symmetrical.


Thanks, I was pretty sure it didnt matter but always best to double check dont want to mess anything up lol. Now I am just trying to get stable now that I have more room with temps


----------



## By-Tor

I wanted to change my water setup around on my rig that was 5 years old. The guts were changed out about 4 years ago to the MB I have now and a 4870x2 and about a month ago I replaced the video card with a Asus 7850. The 360 Rad is now in the CPU loop and the 240 rad is in the GPU loop.

Here's the build from 5 years ago.
http://www.overclock.net/t/346392/project-the-dark-spider

Yes Hockey Pucks!! They make great feet!!!

Added a XSPC Dual Laing pump res. and removed the 2 closed loops.

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_1864_zpsa92ed273.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_1867_zps258644f3.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_1878_zpsa4d3ef01.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_1879_zps1f90257e.jpg.html


----------



## Daredevil 720

A guy from the Delidded Club had his 4770K's die cracked. He says it happened after about a month of use. After some close inspection he noticed his IHS is bowed, and believes this was done by his Supreme HF waterblock which has an LGA1150 optimized jet plate that gives the block a slight bow. The slight IHS bow then cracked his die because after delidding the inner side of the IHS is really close to the die.

So this now has me concerned and I'm looking for some answers:

1) What is the purpose of different jet plates? Do they only control the waterblock's bow?

2) With a lapped CPU do you even need a bowed waterblock at all? I would say the jet plate that gets you the straightest surface would be the best.

Can I please get some answers?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> A guy from the Delidded Club had his 4770K's die cracked. He says it happened after about a month of use. After some close inspection he noticed his IHS is bowed, and believes this was done by his Supreme HF waterblock which has an LGA1150 optimized jet plate that gives the block a slight bow. The slight IHS bow then cracked his die because after delidding the inner side of the IHS is really close to the die.
> 
> So this now has me concerned and I'm looking for some answers:
> 
> 1) What is the purpose of different jet plates? Do they only control the waterblock's bow?
> 
> 2) With a lapped CPU do you even need a bowed waterblock at all? I would say the jet plate that gets you the straightest surface would be the best.
> 
> Can I please get some answers?


The jet plates have a different spread pattern relating to the chip die and are varying thicknesses to bow the contact patch.

You lap a chip,not the block. the primary purpose of lapping is to remove material,not to make it shiny.

By delidding,he brought the block closer to the die,the contact bow from EK is for stock chips. Tolerances are Tolerances....and he stepped over them.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The jet plates have a different spread pattern relating to the chip die and are varying thicknesses to bow the contact patch.
> 
> You lap a chip,not the block. the primary purpose of lapping is to remove material,not to make it shiny.
> 
> By delidding,he brought the block closer to the die,the contact bow from EK is for stock chips. Tolerances are Tolerances....and he stepped over them.


Since a lapped CPU has a flat surface, shouldn't the waterblock also be flat to get the most contact area?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The jet plates have a different spread pattern relating to the chip die and are varying thicknesses to bow the contact patch.
> 
> You lap a chip,not the block. the primary purpose of lapping is to remove material,not to make it shiny.
> 
> By delidding,he brought the block closer to the die,the contact bow from EK is for stock chips. Tolerances are Tolerances....and he stepped over them.
> 
> 
> 
> Since a lapped CPU has a flat surface, shouldn't the waterblock also be flat to get the most contact area?
Click to expand...

No,you want pressure on the contact patch and the bow makes TIM dispersal even.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,you want pressure on the contact patch and the bow makes TIM dispersal even.


Alright then. By the way I have screwed the thumb screws of my EK Supremacy fully. Is this wrong?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> A guy from the Delidded Club had his 4770K's die cracked. He says it happened after about a month of use. After some close inspection he noticed his IHS is bowed, and believes this was done by his Supreme HF waterblock which has an LGA1150 optimized jet plate that gives the block a slight bow. The slight IHS bow then cracked his die because after delidding the inner side of the IHS is really close to the die.
> 
> So this now has me concerned and I'm looking for some answers:
> 
> 1) What is the purpose of different jet plates? Do they only control the waterblock's bow?
> 
> 2) With a lapped CPU do you even need a bowed waterblock at all? I would say the jet plate that gets you the straightest surface would be the best.
> 
> Can I please get some answers?


What... no. Stahp.

Jetplates are internal plates that control the water, they do absolutely nothing for the "bow" of the waterblock. The bow is physical and cannot be altered by an internal plate. Supreme HF eh? I don't believe there are any Jetplates for the Supreme HF that are optimized for 1150.

Using waterblocks on delidded CPUs you must be extremely careful because they are meant to be tightened down very well, we offer a Precise Mounting kit to allow delidders to use waterblocks, but we still recommend to be very very careful.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,you want pressure on the contact patch and the bow makes TIM dispersal even.
> 
> 
> 
> Alright then. By the way I have screwed the thumb screws of my EK Supremacy fully. Is this wrong?
Click to expand...

That's not wrong.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,you want pressure on the contact patch and the bow makes TIM dispersal even.
> 
> 
> 
> Alright then. By the way I have screwed the thumb screws of my EK Supremacy fully. Is this wrong?
Click to expand...

As Derick has pointed out,thats fine.

EK have ended the threads so you cant damage thru overtightening...at least its been like that with the mounts i have used before..Derick?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> A guy from the Delidded Club had his 4770K's die cracked. He says it happened after about a month of use. After some close inspection he noticed his IHS is bowed, and believes this was done by his Supreme HF waterblock which has an LGA1150 optimized jet plate that gives the block a slight bow. The slight IHS bow then cracked his die because after delidding the inner side of the IHS is really close to the die.
> 
> So this now has me concerned and I'm looking for some answers:
> 
> 1) What is the purpose of different jet plates? Do they only control the waterblock's bow?
> 
> 2) With a lapped CPU do you even need a bowed waterblock at all? I would say the jet plate that gets you the straightest surface would be the best.
> 
> Can I please get some answers?
> 
> 
> 
> What... no. Stahp.
> 
> *Jetplates are internal plates that control the water, they do absolutely nothing for the "bow" of the waterblock. The bow is physical and cannot be altered by an internal plate.* Supreme HF eh? I don't believe there are any Jetplates for the Supreme HF that are optimized for 1150.
Click to expand...

Not true Derick.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supremacy-nickel.html
Quote:


> EK-Supremacy is also the first CPU water block on the market which has been optimized for every modern CPU platform independently with the *use of different type of jet plates to ensure the best contact with the CPU* integrated heat spreader (IHS). *These jet plates of different shape and thickness* are enclosed with the product.


Niko told me that himself also.

oops....double post...mods:merge please


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Using waterblocks on delidded CPUs you must be extremely careful because they are meant to be tightened down very well, we offer a Precise Mounting kit to allow delidders to use waterblocks, but we still recommend to be very very careful.


Would you say that a direct-to-die mount using such a kit is safer than the traditional mount with IHS in place?


----------



## renrenderla

Hi guys!

Just wanna share my modded BitFenix Prodigy who won 1st Runner up
during the Annual Davao Cyber Expo last July 26-28,2013 - Davao City, Philippines







Hope you like em guys!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As Derick has pointed out,thats fine.
> 
> EK have ended the threads so you cant damage thru overtightening...at least its been like that with the mounts i have used before..Derick?
> 
> Not true Derick.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/ek-supremacy-nickel.html


Oops. Hehe haven't had my coffee this morning.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Using waterblocks on delidded CPUs you must be extremely careful because they are meant to be tightened down very well, we offer a Precise Mounting kit to allow delidders to use waterblocks, but we still recommend to be very very careful.
> 
> 
> 
> Would you say that a direct-to-die mount using such a kit is safer than the traditional mount with IHS in place?
Click to expand...

Yeah


----------



## Zooty Cat

Get red they look orange.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Anyone know of anywhere that has Orange cathodes?????


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renrenderla*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Just wanna share my modded BitFenix Prodigy who won 1st Runner up
> during the Annual Davao Cyber Expo last July 26-28,2013 - Davao City, Philippines
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like em guys!


Looks great







Hard to believe there was a mod there that looked better :/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Oops. Hehe haven't had my coffee this morning.












Tea my man,get into tea......


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tea my man,get into tea......


You would say that, being a Brit and all


----------



## Eze2kiel

I've a Tygon E-1000 1/2 ID - 5/8 OD

The question is... Which connectors should I use?

Currently I have the Koolance: http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-compression-for-13mm-x-16mm-1-2in-x-5-8in

I see that the hose is loose ...

What do you suggest?

PS: I don't want to put clamps.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> I've a Tygon E-1000 1/2 ID - 5/8 OD
> 
> The question is... Which connectors should I use?
> 
> Currently I have the Koolance: http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-compression-for-13mm-x-16mm-1-2in-x-5-8in
> 
> I see that the hose is loose ...
> 
> What do you suggest?
> 
> PS: I don't want to put clamps.


tighten the ring?


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> tighten the ring?


How to fix it?
I said I didn't want to use clamps to keep original aesthetics.

What I can get inside you so it is sturdy and doesn't leave the hose?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> How to fix it?
> I said I didn't want to use clamps to keep original aesthetics.
> 
> What I can get inside you so it is sturdy and doesn't leave the hose?


Get tubing with a smaller ID - like 7/16" ID but use your 1/2" barbs... that's about the only way I know to safely use barbs throughout without clamps. Or just get compression fittings...


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> I've a Tygon E-1000 1/2 ID - 5/8 OD
> 
> The question is... Which connectors should I use?
> 
> Currently I have the Koolance: http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-compression-for-13mm-x-16mm-1-2in-x-5-8in
> 
> I see that the hose is loose ...
> 
> What do you suggest?
> 
> PS: I don't want to put clamps.


I have that tube but with different size, in my case 1/2 3/4, and with bitspower compression fittings i had the same problem.

Btw in you signature there's a link to Tygon user club, read the opening post :" E1000 does not work with compression fittings".


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> I have that tube but with different size, in my case 1/2 3/4, and with bitspower compression fittings i had the same problem.
> 
> Btw in you signature there's a link to Tygon user club, read the opening post :" E1000 does not work with compression fittings".


thanks for that info I was going to place an order but you have saved the day


----------



## Kurio

I'd like to say 1/2 ID 3/4 OD is a nice size, but there are better options.


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renrenderla*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Just wanna share my modded BitFenix Prodigy who won 1st Runner up
> during the Annual Davao Cyber Expo last July 26-28,2013 - Davao City, Philippines
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like em guys!


Wow. That front panel looks amazing. Internals are very clean!

Whoever took 1st must have had quite the system to take the title from you.


----------



## oelkanne

Help


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> 
> 
> Help


I use MX-4 all the time.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I use MX-4 all the time.


IC Diamond is where it's at


----------



## oelkanne

MX 4 for GPU´s and GPU Chips
Nano Grease for CPU
and IC-diamond for RAM-Cooling


----------



## 094145

Hi,guys here's my recent build for 2013 hope u guys like it....


----------



## Sunreeper

This isn't instagram!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *094145*
> 
> Hi,guys here's my recent build for 2013 hope u guys like it....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Normal pictures? It's impossible to admire that beast with those photo's.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Normal pictures? It's impossible to admire that beast with those photo's.


My thoughts exactly.


----------



## robcowboy73

look like the camera is set to ghost mode or something you find on webcam software


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> This isn't instagram!


----------



## Sunreeper

So I've got around 300$ to spend on water cooling gear and I'm going to be spending 200$ on some water blocks for my GPU's, which leaves me with around 150$. I want to go hard acrylic tubing so can anyone recommend me about 150$ worth of bitspower fittings for hard acrylic tubing? An alternate I can take is to go with primochill's new acrylic tubing and fittings and then buy a radiator.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> So I've got around 300$ to spend on water cooling gear and I'm going to be spending 200$ on some water blocks for my GPU's, which leaves me with around 150$. I want to go hard acrylic tubing so can anyone recommend me about 150$ worth of bitspower fittings for hard acrylic tubing? An alternate I can take is to go with primochill's new acrylic tubing and fittings and then buy a radiator.


Do you have a loop route diagram?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> So I've got around 300$ to spend on water cooling gear and I'm going to be spending 200$ on some water blocks for my GPU's, which leaves me with around 150$. I want to go hard acrylic tubing so can anyone recommend me about 150$ worth of bitspower fittings for hard acrylic tubing? An alternate I can take is to go with primochill's new acrylic tubing and fittings and then buy a radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a loop route diagram?
Click to expand...

Not yet but I have a rough idea of how the loops going to be in my head. I'm actually at vacation in Florida so I can't really take a picture of my build and draw a loop order.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Not yet but I have a rough idea of how the loops going to be in my head. I'm actually at vacation in Florida so I can't really take a picture of my build and draw a loop order.


It will be easy to come up with a bitspower order with a loop diagram/pic. Access to MS Paint?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> It will be easy to come up with a bitspower order with a loop diagram/pic. Access to MS Paint?


Thanks for all the help and quick responses James







Yes I do have access to paint but I've never made one of these diagrams before.


----------



## Sunreeper

So I've failed horribly at creating a loop diagram with google images and paint







But I did find a build with an order that I'd like to emulate:



*All credit to this amazing build belongs to Boweezie check out his amazing build log here.*

Anyways I'd like a build that has a lot of visible acrylic tubing like the build above and not one with a lot of fittings and crystal link in the CPU area like I commonly see. That way I can also save money because I won't have to buy as many fittings







Hopefully what I've said makes sense and I'd appreciate more help on the matter


----------



## lvlrdka22

Feet arrived yesterday, finally got around to installing them. Had to grab longer screws since the ones I had were a tiny bit too short.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I've failed horribly at creating a loop diagram with google images and paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I did find a build with an order that I'd like to emulate:
> 
> 
> 
> *All credit to this amazing build belongs to Boweezie check out his amazing build log here.*
> 
> 
> Anyways I'd like a build that has a lot of visible acrylic tubing like the build above and not one with a lot of fittings and crystal link in the CPU area like I commonly see. That way I can also save money because I won't have to buy as many fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully what I've said makes sense and I'd appreciate more help on the matter


im trying to convert my current rig to acrylic also, but have no idea on where to start also lol, mostly on what fittings to get for the 10/12 acrylic, so if you get any good info, be sure to share









ive read the acrylic bending guide so im sure im ready for that, but someone really needs to put a complete acrylic watercooling guide up, like what fittings to get, where to get, etc









good luck.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im trying to convert my current rig to acrylic also, but have no idea on where to start also lol, mostly on what fittings to get for the 10/12 acrylic, so if you get any good info, be sure to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ive read the acrylic bending guide so im sure im ready for that, but someone really needs to put a complete acrylic watercooling guide up, like what fittings to get, where to get, etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good luck.


Bitspower C47 Crystal link fittings are most commonly used. I have used them, and they fit perfectly around the tubing without any modification to the tubing, besides from de-burring.

MetallicAcid


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im trying to convert my current rig to acrylic also, but have no idea on where to start also lol, mostly on what fittings to get for the 10/12 acrylic, so if you get any good info, be sure to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ive read the acrylic bending guide so im sure im ready for that, but someone really needs to put a complete acrylic watercooling guide up, like what fittings to get, where to get, etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good luck.


I'm sure that question has been asked and answered many times before in this thread and the bending thread.

Most acrylic builds are using e22 with Bitspower c47 fittings or primochill rigid and their rigid compression fittings.

I didn't have any issues using 8/12 acrylic from a local plastics distributor with my c47s.

Also bending the acrylic will save you a ton on fitting costs.


----------



## briddell

The big question I am dealing with... Acrylic tubing, or copper pipe, nickel plated?


----------



## L0nestar

HERE's mine... acrylic for the win .

http://imageshack.com/i/nmolm3j/

http://imageshack.com/i/eux68jj/


----------



## Sunreeper

I think I'm going to be going with primochill tubing I've been looking and bitspower fittings are expensive!!


----------



## luciddreamer124

I'm so glad acrylic loops have taken off. They look amazing. They don't cloud so very little maintenance. The only con is that its very expensive if you only want straight runs, but can be cheaper if you bend it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I'm sure that question has been asked and answered many times before in this thread and the bending thread.
> 
> Most acrylic builds are using e22 with Bitspower c47 fittings or primochill rigid and their rigid compression fittings.
> 
> I didn't have any issues using 8/12 acrylic from a local plastics distributor with my c47s.
> 
> Also bending the acrylic will save you a ton on fitting costs.


so 20 or so bitspower c47 fittings and some bitspower angle fittings, how much acrylic tubing would you recommend to get for a first time bender? i dont want to end up short because half my tubing is in the garbage after i mess up lol


----------



## wermad

Fittings came in today so I'll be busy getting started with acrylic hard tube







. I hope to get my rig plumbed in a few days.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so 20 or so bitspower c47 fittings and some bitspower angle fittings, how much acrylic tubing would you recommend to get for a first time bender? i dont want to end up short because half my tubing is in the garbage after i mess up lol


Order 3 meters to be safe


----------



## Rognin

I'm bored, so I stopped by to say hi!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> I'm bored, so I stopped by to say hi!


What up!


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so 20 or so bitspower c47 fittings and some bitspower angle fittings, how much acrylic tubing would you recommend to get for a first time bender? i dont want to end up short because half my tubing is in the garbage after i mess up lol


As James said, about 3 meters. I ordered 3 and only ended up using about 2.


----------



## h2spartan

I like the look of Swiftech compression fittings but I'm not sure about their quality. Anyone use Swiftech fittings? Pretty reliable?


----------



## szeged

heres what ill order i guess, got to cool a cpu block, two gpu blocks, motherboard blocks (when ek releases them, their page says monday), two radiators, pump and res.



think this looks good? or should i maybe get the red tubing instead of going for dyed water? also, added the primochill insert to the cart but took this pic before it was added.

let me know what you guys think.

also, just watched the primochill vid on their fittings/tubing, theyre saying the bitspower fittings wont work with their tubing? is that just a marketing ploy or do they really think that?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2spartan*
> 
> I like the look of Swiftech compression fittings but I'm not sure about their quality. Anyone use Swiftech fittings? Pretty reliable?


They're okay. The collars fit really tight and sometimes the only way to get them off is with a pair of pliers. Also, sometimes when you're unscrewing the collar, the fittings unscrews with it. I'm sure that's just because I over tightened the collar but just a heads up









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Sunreeper

Wait does this actually come with 2 fittings
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=27585

If so it's actually cheaper than the primochill fittings and I can go with bitspower like I originally wanted









Edit: also should I buy this or can I find it for cheaper at somewhere like a hardware store?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23975


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*


Sorry for this beginner question, but is there a diagram for how coolant flows in this configuration for the graphics cards? If each port on each graphics card block is an inlet and outlet, why would everything be connected to each other? Could you have two tubes between just two graphics cards?


----------



## Eze2kiel

Tygon E-3603 is rigid or flexible?


----------



## wermad

I have access to cheap acrylic tube (~$3 for 6 feet) so I went with the Primochill ghost fittings. I bought 24 feet (four rods) just to make sure and have a bit of practice. I bought 20 fittings and its expensive (~$120 shipped) but the cheap and local access to tube ensures I don't have to order more tube if I mess up. And you do make a few mistakes the first time


----------



## h2spartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> They're okay. The collars fit really tight and sometimes the only way to get them off is with a pair of pliers. Also, sometimes when you're unscrewing the collar, the fittings unscrews with it. I'm sure that's just because I over tightened the collar but just a heads up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Okay thanks! I would probably have gone with Bitspower but I really want to use one of those newer Swiftech QDCs and would rather just go all Swiftech in that case.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> heres what ill order i guess, got to cool a cpu block, two gpu blocks, motherboard blocks (when ek releases them, their page says monday), two radiators, pump and res.
> 
> 
> 
> think this looks good? or should i maybe get the red tubing instead of going for dyed water? also, added the primochill insert to the cart but took this pic before it was added.
> 
> let me know what you guys think.
> 
> also, just watched the primochill vid on their fittings/tubing, theyre saying the bitspower fittings wont work with their tubing? is that just a marketing ploy or do they really think that?


Thats right, the Primo rigid if too big for the C47 fittings. If your wanting to use C47s youll need tubing with a max OD of 12mm

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=37277


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Thats right, the Primo rigid if too big for the C47 fittings. If your wanting to use C47s youll need tubing with a max OD of 12mm
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=37277


okay thanks, ill change the tubing to the e22 10/12 tubing then, once again thanks







i almost made a mistake and i havent even started yet


----------



## wermad

First run (second attempt







):


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Wait does this actually come with 2 fittings
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=27585
> 
> If so it's actually cheaper than the primochill fittings and I can go with bitspower like I originally wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: also should I buy this or can I find it for cheaper at somewhere like a hardware store?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23975


So to add to my extremely stupid questions up there I'd like to add one more








What fitting is this?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> So to add to my extremely stupid questions up there I'd like to add one more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fitting is this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's THIS with a C47 attached


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> So to add to my extremely stupid questions up there I'd like to add one more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fitting is this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's THIS with a C47 attached
Click to expand...

Ahh thanks James! +rep again


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> So to add to my extremely stupid questions up there I'd like to add one more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fitting is this?


Typical 90 degree adapter I think, with fittings for acrylic screwed on.


----------



## TampaChaz

FINALLY! Leak testing/sys prep is underway!










So far, so good.....Dry when I started and dry an hour in.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> FINALLY! Leak testing/sys prep is underway!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, so good.....Dry when I started and dry an hour in.


looks good, cant wait to see how it turns out.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> looks good, cant wait to see how it turns out.


Thank you very much.
Here she is with all her panels in place and the rads running









Can't wait to get through burn in and get some overclocking stats posted.


----------



## saophen

Still not done, got another gtx 680 4gb to add to the loop! But my x16 slot is bent all to hell, so i need a new mobo to run sli







.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys, . . . I've been a busy beaver lately, and my "Lab" series of PWM controllers has advanced quite a bit from the initial "Lab" version I built for Martin's lab in the last couple weeks.

Here's a preview:







Newest PCB for the next and final version, just waiting on parts:



The thread is here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1411639/precision-pwm-controller-for-martins-liquid-lab/10#post_20585797

Darlene


----------



## kingchris

unreal work!


----------



## BadDad62

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys, . . . I've been a busy beaver lately, and my "Lab" series of PWM controllers has advanced quite a bit from the initial "Lab" version I built for Martin's lab in the last couple weeks.
> 
> Here's a preview:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newest PCB for the next and final version, just waiting on parts:
> 
> 
> The thread is here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1411639/precision-pwm-controller-for-martins-liquid-lab/10#post_20585797
> 
> Darlene






Awesome work Darlene


----------



## robcowboy73

I have just had to look up the meaning of PWM controllers as I'm no good with electronic but looks good IT Diva


----------



## Tarnix

I'm reaching out to you guys (and girls







) for a bit of help with my build...
I don't know what to do anymore to make this build look more clean.









re-doing the tubing and dye concentration is planned, I just need to wait next month to buy more tubing distilled water (I need to flush and refill, I used to much dye and the tubing is not optimal, all scratched up and turned yellow).


Sorry for the lame quality, All I have is a webcam that takes JPEG shots :/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I'm reaching out to you guys (and girls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) for a bit of help with my build...
> I don't know what to do anymore to make this build look more clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> re-doing the tubing and dye concentration is planned, I just need to wait next month to buy more tubing distilled water (I need to flush and refill, I used to much dye and the tubing is not optimal, all scratched up and turned yellow).
> 
> 
> Sorry for the lame quality, All I have is a webcam that takes JPEG shots :/


Sort the cabling and that fan just hanging there.
It will look much better.


----------



## Tarnix

if I remove the fan, I'll run into temp instability...
About cabling.. Not much more I can do, the back of the motherboard doesn't have that much space.







I can't tuck much more without risking to break or short something.
Due to how the motherboard fan headers are done, I can't really plug them elsewhere... The more I play around, the more I dislike this case and this motherboard.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> if I remove the fan, I'll run into temp instability...
> About cabling.. Not much more I can do, the back of the motherboard doesn't have that much space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't tuck much more without risking to break or short something.
> Due to how the motherboard fan headers are done, I can't really plug them elsewhere... The more I play around, the more I dislike this case and this motherboard.


You can buy some 3-pin/4-pin extensions for your fans as well as some sleeved 6-pin extensions for your lower graphics card.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> You can buy some 3-pin/4-pin extensions for your fans *as well as some sleeved 6-pin extensions for your lower graphics card.*


Thanks, planning on it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sort the cabling and that fan just hanging there.
> It will look much better.


That's about all I can do without buying anything (no budget this month, already bought a GPU)


Just noticed the front fans cable.. Oh well, I don't want to re-do it again.

I just hope that the NB doesn't die...
*EDIT:* Folding, 80C. We got a problem... I think I'll have to keep the fan there :/

Meh, I'll probably end up buying a motherboard block and a D5...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> unreal work!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys, . . . I've been a busy beaver lately, and my "Lab" series of PWM controllers has advanced quite a bit from the initial "Lab" version I built for Martin's lab in the last couple weeks.
> 
> Here's a preview:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newest PCB for the next and final version, just waiting on parts:
> 
> 
> The thread is here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1411639/precision-pwm-controller-for-martins-liquid-lab/10#post_20585797
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome work Darlene
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I have just had to look up the meaning of PWM controllers as I'm no good with electronic but looks good IT Diva


Thanks guys,

Sometimes a little pat on the back makes it all seem so much more worthwhile, lol

Darlene


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> Sorry for this beginner question, but is there a diagram for how coolant flows in this configuration for the graphics cards? If each port on each graphics card block is an inlet and outlet, why would everything be connected to each other? Could you have two tubes between just two graphics cards?


I had a tough time understanding parallel when I first started as well. Above picture is parallel. Coolant flows through both at the same time and cooling stays consistent. Usually with a little bit of lot pressure . Series is one after another. The last card may get a few degrees hotter. Lots of debates on which is better and I dont believe one is better than the other. Preference.

Series is easy enough to understand.

Here is parallel.


----------



## robcowboy73

there shod only be one pipe running from graphic card one in to graphic card 2

card 1____card 2 that way you keep the flow going throw both cards.
your first card will only get 50% cooling as the water is bypassing throw the top link pipe that's if i'm reading your pic right


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> if I remove the fan, I'll run into temp instability...
> About cabling.. *Not much more I can do, the back of the motherboard doesn't have that much space*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't tuck much more without risking to break or short something.
> Due to how the motherboard fan headers are done, I can't really plug them elsewhere... The more I play around, the more I dislike this case and this motherboard.


Both your R4 and my Midi R2 have the same space behind the motherboard. I swear that you're far from done and that there is much more you can do to tidy those cables up. Tell you what, I've got quite a bit of stuff to do today but I'll try and take pictures of my rig in a bit. Mobo side and the other. It's a hard fit and I have to use both my hands and feet (or a knee) and sometimes event the wall to get the back pannel closed but with such good quality pannels you're not taking any sort of risk (the phantom really had rubbish pannels).

What you can do right now though is take those ugly "stands" off the top of the bottom 3.5" cage and the bottom of the top 5.25" cage


----------



## robcowboy73

From the top


----------



## oelkanne

Just to show what it could look like if the finish line comes closer


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Just to show what it could look like if the finish line comes closer


Nice!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> if I remove the fan, I'll run into temp instability...
> About cabling.. *Not much more I can do, the back of the motherboard doesn't have that much space*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't tuck much more without risking to break or short something.
> Due to how the motherboard fan headers are done, I can't really plug them elsewhere... The more I play around, the more I dislike this case and this motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> Both your R4 and my Midi R2 have the same space behind the motherboard. I swear that you're far from done and that there is much more you can do to tidy those cables up. Tell you what, I've got quite a bit of stuff to do today but I'll try and take pictures of my rig in a bit. Mobo side and the other. It's a hard fit and I have to use both my hands and feet (or a knee) and sometimes event the wall to get the back pannel closed but with such good quality pannels you're not taking any sort of risk (the phantom really had rubbish pannels).
> 
> What you can do right now though is take those ugly "stands" off the top of the bottom 3.5" cage and the bottom of the top 5.25" cage
Click to expand...

Getting there!










I know, the back looks like hell.


----------



## steelkevin

Already looks much better







.

I just noticed you had no rear fan. Have you got any fans up top ? That could and mostly likely would explain your high NB temps.
Maybe put the white fan as a rear exhaust and that sickleflow down in the bottom ?

I'll get you some quick pictures in a couple minutes. Trust me, that looks no way near as bad as behind my mobo, you've still got plenty of space







. I've considered cutting off useless molex and sata cords but never did.

EDIT: nevermind about the rear fan thing, just went back to your first picture, you did have one







.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Already looks much better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I just noticed you had no rear fan. Have you got any fans up top ? That could and mostly likely would explain your high NB temps.
> Maybe put the white fan as a rear exhaust and that sickleflow down in the bottom ?
> 
> I'll get you some quick pictures in a couple minutes. Trust me, that looks no way near as bad as behind my mobo, you've still got plenty of space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've considered cutting off useless molex and sata cords but never did.
> 
> EDIT: nevermind about the rear fan thing, just went back to your first picture, you did have one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I had, I put it on top, and the rad is above that.
Temps are better.


----------



## oelkanne

THX Tanrix









I´ll give my best to make it OCN WC-Club Proud...and HWLX-germany


----------



## robcowboy73

I know, the back looks like hell.[/quote]

they all do from the back mate we have all the same problem
the front is looking good and as far as the VRM fen go I am using a Kingston hyper x ddr fans on a L bracket
I only suffer over heating on my Gigabyte 990FXA - UD3 mobo
my Saber tooth board gets up to 62c under load


----------



## steelkevin

I managed to take as bad pictures as yours but with my old trusty phone instead of a crappy webcam







.







Can't be bothered to get those photos the right way up, sorry








(just noticed one of the fan's cables had got loose and is showing above the res, fixing that right now









The 24pin is a mess because it was bent the other way around on my old motherboard for years. It just won't bend well in any other position now :/.

And yeah, I've got no I/O shield which is way I haven't taken any good pictures with that new motherboard yet. I bought the board over a week ago now and the bloke forgot the I/O shield and I didn't think of it at the time. Got home, installed everything and realized I didn't have the damn I/O shield. So I sent him an email telling him it was missing and he said he was terribly sorry and would mail it. Recieved it yesterday. Well, not really:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








As you can see the enveloppe is all torn up. Never seen such a thing. The 20g stamp is crossed out though. So I suppose the cheap bastard tried to save a couple pennies (litterally, one of those stamps are like 0.20€), some chap just happened to be doing his job and caught the fraud, shred the enevelope to pieces and ceased the I/O shield (my Dell I/O shield weighs 31g). Now I've got to wait tomorrow to call them and find out if they're going to ask me for 0.20€ to get it back or if they'll just denny they tore the enveloppe apart and crossed the stamp in which case I'm screwed. I'm pretty mad about this crap because the motherboard cost me 50€ and one of those I/O shields go for 15-20€ on Ebay, there's no way I'm paying that much.


----------



## Ishinomori

What do you guys use to free up your rotary bit "rotation"?

I have some silicon spray which I am considering as it shouldnt hurt the O-rings, not sure though.

Cheers


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I had a tough time understanding parallel when I first started as well. Above picture is parallel. Coolant flows through both at the same time and cooling stays consistent. Usually with a little bit of lot pressure . Series is one after another. The last card may get a few degrees hotter. Lots of debates on which is better and I dont believe one is better than the other. Preference.
> 
> Series is easy enough to understand.
> 
> Here is parallel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you! Makes much more sense now. Still seems like the first card where coolant flows into would have a higher amount of pressure or flow, but the diagram makes sense.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I managed to take as bad pictures as yours but with my old trusty phone instead of a crappy webcam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't be bothered to get those photos the right way up, sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (just noticed one of the fan's cables had got loose and is showing above the res, fixing that right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 24pin is a mess because it was bent the other way around on my old motherboard for years. It just won't bend well in any other position now :/.
> 
> And yeah, I've got no I/O shield which is way I haven't taken any good pictures with that new motherboard yet. I bought the board over a week ago now and the bloke forgot the I/O shield and I didn't think of it at the time. Got home, installed everything and realized I didn't have the damn I/O shield. So I sent him an email telling him it was missing and he said he was terribly sorry and would mail it. Recieved it yesterday. Well, not really:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the enveloppe is all torn up. Never seen such a thing. The 20g stamp is crossed out though. So I suppose the cheap bastard tried to save a couple pennies (litterally, one of those stamps are like 0.20€), some chap just happened to be doing his job and caught the fraud, shred the enevelope to pieces and ceased the I/O shield (my Dell I/O shield weighs 31g). Now I've got to wait tomorrow to call them and find out if they're going to ask me for 0.20€ to get it back or if they'll just denny they tore the enveloppe apart and crossed the stamp in which case I'm screwed. I'm pretty mad about this crap because the motherboard cost me 50€ and one of those I/O shields go for 15-20€ on Ebay, there's no way I'm paying that much.


wow, quite a story! Some people really do anything to save a penny...

Indeed, the "front" and the back are really two different views








Looking good, though. I wish I could fit a rad inside my case. Someone did it in _another forum_ and I tried it, wouldn't work. I would need a 140mm rad and the poor fan selection just made me go "nope". So I just cut a hole. I wish I had a dremel, though. it was "cut" by bending the grill with a screwdriver and pliers until it broke, so it's terribly sharp and totally not clean. Next time I take the pc apart, i'll go give more metal file treatment to it...









Though, I really want a 900D...
Anyway, random story over, lol.
After a few folding time and some resting:

At least now it's pretty and I can close the case and stop sweating over it.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L0nestar*
> 
> HERE's mine... acrylic for the win .
> 
> http://imageshack.com/i/eux68jj/


That's gorgeous... My next build may be similar, but in Miami Dolphins colors.


----------



## NewHighScore

I'm starting to see a trend of rigid acrylic tube/ copper tube bending which has almost become a standard to have a top notch build now. I'm lovin it.

Great builds everyone.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I'm starting to see a trend of rigid acrylic tube/ copper tube bending which has almost become a standard to have a top notch build now. I'm lovin it.
> 
> Great builds everyone.


I so want to do acrylic tubing....but I live on the 14th floor of a condo, so no space for a workshop to do the bending.....guess I am stuck with the plain ole flex tubing that is getting increasingly lame.....


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys, got my Mountain Mods Extended Ascension in Anodized black a couple days ago. I absolutely love it!!! I even got the name of the company I work for laser engraved in the side panel. Running dual loops. One loop consists of an Alphacool Dual Laing Dual Bay Reservoir > MCP655-b >Alphacool UT60 280mm > EK Coolstream 140mm > Reservoir. The other consists of an Alphacool Dual Laing Dual Bay Reservoir > MCP655 > VPP655 > Swiftech MCR320 > Black Ice GTX 360mm > 7950 > 7950 > Reservoir. Loving this setup. I'm just having a problem with the Swiftech Lok-Seal fitting leaking







I'll let the pics do the talking though.











Here is a link to my build log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1415138/yet-another-build-log-mountain-mods-ascension-dual-mcp655s-wcd-7950s-asus-mve-1140mm-rad-space/0_30

Enjoy


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I so want to do acrylic tubing....but I live on the 14th floor of a condo, so no space for a workshop to do the bending.....guess I am stuck with the plain ole flex tubing that is getting increasingly lame.....


I would think the kitchen counter would be enough workshop for some rigid acrylic tube bending.







When there is a will, there is a way.


----------



## lowfat

You definitely don't need a workshop to use a heatgun. My living room is my workshop.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You definitely don't need a workshop to use a heatgun. My living room is my workshop.


Any chance we will see some rigid acrylic tubing in your amazing builds in the near future lowfat?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Still need to fix a new GPU lol













Spoiler: More...


----------



## robcowboy73

what a monster


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I so want to do acrylic tubing....but I live on the 14th floor of a condo, so no space for a workshop to do the bending.....guess I am stuck with the plain ole flex tubing that is getting increasingly lame.....
> 
> 
> 
> I would think the kitchen counter would be enough workshop for some rigid acrylic tube bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When there is a will, there is a way.
Click to expand...

This.

You can bend tube in an armchair.....


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Any chance we will see some rigid acrylic tubing in your amazing builds in the near future lowfat?


You definitely don't need a workshop to use a heatgun. My living room is my workshop.









Ordered some earlier today.







But I forgot to add the damn bending tool to my cart before checking out. Hopefully FCPU can remedy my error in the morning before they ship it out.


----------



## wermad

First attempt. I'm pretty happy but I need to learn a bit more. Time to go buy some more tube


----------



## kcuestag

That looks good!

I've always wanted acrylic tubing but I know I'd mess it up and probably break something.









I'm getting clear tubing plus smaller (Going from 19/13 to 16/11mm) and I'll go with mayhems pastel white.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That looks good!
> 
> I've always wanted acrylic tubing but I know I'd mess it up and probably break something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting clear tubing plus smaller (Going from 19/13 to 16/11mm) and I'll go with mayhems pastel white.


The cpu to gpu is giving me a lot of issues. I've done about four runs and the last one was the best looking one but it had cracks







. Using what ever is left of the 8m of tube i bought







. Its a lot of work and to get the bends right is critical. I have a few angle adapters and those helped a ton. Tbh, I'm not too happy with the results I may just go back to nylon tube


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOwlHootHoot*
> 
> Alright so I have been working on a water cooling loop for awhile and its coming along pretty strawng right now. I just finished the loop and I have my temps down to optimal temperatures. I've been looking through a lot of these photos for inspiration for my build. I'm hoping I can join your club.
> 
> *Parts that I used*
> 
> LG Radiator
> Red "Dixie" Water Tank 2.0 Extreme 4 Cup
> Pink Tubing


Are those straws or is that edited via paint?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Are those straws or is that edited via paint?


1337 tubing









pink straws....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> You can bend tube in an armchair.....


The girl might not like this...lol...but maybe I do when she is out and she don't have to know


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The cpu to gpu is giving me a lot of issues. I've done about four runs and the last one was the best looking one but it had cracks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Using what ever is left of the 8m of tube i bought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its a lot of work and to get the bends right is critical. I have a few angle adapters and those helped a ton. Tbh, I'm not too happy with the results I may just go back to nylon tube


It would be a shame to give up. It seems pretty nice to me!









I think you will only feel rewarded once you fill that up with some colored coolant and see how crisp the dye will look.


----------



## Tarnix

I'm considering Acrylic too, but I'm not too hot (har har) on the list of tools I need to buy to do it. :/


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I'm considering Acrylic too, but I'm not too hot (har har) on the list of tools I need to buy to do it. :/


A heatgun and a bending cord? That is like $25 total.









Anyone who does any sleeving should have a heagun anyways.


----------



## Tarnix

Oh, interesting. Plus a couple of clamps.








if you're referring to my sleeved SATA and pcie, I bought them. I might do the next ones, with a more matte sleeving.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> First attempt. I'm pretty happy but I need to learn a bit more. Time to go buy some more tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good for a first attempt.


----------



## jhaze84

GPU block and new reservoir came in. I'm definitely enjoying not having to deal with a bay res anymore.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Looks good. Might I suggest simply using a drain valve right off the GPU instead of a whole other length of tubing? I think it would look cleaner.


----------



## jhaze84

Thanks, and yeah, the drain tube is the part I like the least and something I will probably change soon.


----------



## Ishinomori

How about a t-piece in the front of your pump?


----------



## L0nestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhaze84*
> 
> GPU block and new reservoir came in. I'm definitely enjoying not having to deal with a bay res anymore.


I love your choice of CPU Cooler!

http://imageshack.com/i/nmolm3j


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhaze84*
> 
> GPU block and new reservoir came in. I'm definitely enjoying not having to deal with a bay res anymore.


did you have alot of problems with a bayres?


----------



## jhaze84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> How about a t-piece in the front of your pump?


I was thinking that, but I was having problems getting it fitted correctly. Ideally I want a small drain tube tucked away to pull outside of the case. But there's not much space between the res inlet and the case floor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L0nestar*
> 
> I love your choice of CPU Cooler!


Yours looks pretty awesome as well







and the rigid tubing looks great!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> did you have alot of problems with a bayres?


Yeah. I thought it would be convenient to have the pump and res tucked away in the 5.25 bays but it brought several problems. It made accessing those parts unnecessarily difficult due to the cramped location. And the fit was extremely tight and awkward. But mostly I didn't like how I had to slide the res forward to access the fill port. I had to build slack into my tubing to account for that and it made the case look messy. The tank res is much easier to deal with.


----------



## Stickeelion

ok since we are slightly on the topic of draining, I want to drain out my large 2 litre loop with a res and a drain valve at the bottom, I drained once before by blowing into the loop but I only got about 1/2 of the fluid out, since this time I just want to change coolant I don't want to blow through it to drain it.

I don't really want to disassemble either so I am planning on draining, filling with DI water, running pumps for a few hours drain and repeat. several times until clear. is there a better (read easier) way to go about this? also if I drain by blowing though it will that be ok? (I'm thinking on the lines of introducing bacteria to the loop)


----------



## Ishinomori

Whats the lowest point in your rig?

Pictures?


----------



## defiler2k

So I went in and cleaned up my setup a bit and added a second 770 to my loop.


The GPU's weigh over 10 pounds with the blocks and link attached!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is how much was left of the distilled water after done


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Kyouki

Update on the old TJ10 rig, I added the rest of my RAM Overkill maybe but man it looks good with it all filled up! So you're looking at 64gig at 1866mhz. For future updates, I am looking at moving to acrylic tubes and putting my card under water soon. I might even do a color theme change that a big maybe though because if I decide to do that I might as well just build a new case. Enjoy the RAM Porn.


----------



## _REAPER_

Update I am going to try to find one more of these but atleast I found 2 of them


----------



## cyphon

You guys may have convinced me to go acrylic tube and that I do not need as much space as I thought to do it.

My question is, how do you guys put the tubes in? Do you attach the connectors to the tube first and then try to screw them it? or do you screw them in first and try to press the tube into them without breaking it? or is there some other way I havent thought about?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I need to get some more lighting in here. What are you guys thinking? Any recommendations? It's the biggest case I've seen in my life and I want the light to spread nice and evenly throughout. So what should I do? A combination of red and white? Or just red? I just threw the pics in a spoiler tag because I posted the build a couple pages back. How no one noticed a Mountain Mods build, I will never understand









Thanks










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## cam51037

Just curious, why do people buy links for their GPUs? Do they do anything really?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Just curious, why do people buy links for their GPUs? Do they do anything really?


Cleaner/easier/better looking way to connect their GPU blocks...more efficient than looping tube between them as well


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Cleaner/easier/better looking way to connect their GPU blocks...more efficient than looping tube between them as well


Ah ok thanks.


----------



## luciddreamer124

They also make your GPU config more rigid and less prone to sag


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Just curious, why do people buy links for their GPUs? Do they do anything really?


All personal preference.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> They also make your GPU config more rigid and less prone to sag


I noticed this when I started using a bridge. A little less card sag when they're installed into the PCI-e slots.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Especially if you use the ones like Bitspower telescoping fittings. They are extremely strong.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> They also make your GPU config more rigid and less prone to sag


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> All personal preference.


I use the Asus Direct CU II cards and they were saggin really bad before tossing blocks on em and using the bridge. Even without the bridge and just the blocks on em, the PCB's had a slight bend from sagging with the air coolers on them for only a few months. They were sagging out of the box actually.

The rig in my sig might show the difference before and after.


----------



## islandgam3r

Question for everyone, I'm trying to decide the BEST possible pre-mix or coolant to use for my res. Do u guys recommend the *Ice Dragon Nano Fluid, the EK coolant line, Fluid XP nano liquid or just regular coolant where I dye it myself and add the additives needed? I want maximum protection from corrosion and algae developing, which I heard Nano fluid eliminates.*
Appreciate all assistance and suggestions.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Just curious, why do people buy links for their GPUs? Do they do anything really?


Personally I prefer the link to individual tubing because it makes things easier to handle and keeps everything stable on the case, like others mentioned there is less sag and it keeps the cards aligned.


----------



## lowfat

If you are using nickel plated blocks you shouldn't really use Ice Dragon. It stains nickel heavily. It can be polished off but it is a lot of work.


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you are using nickel plated blocks you shouldn't really use Ice Dragon. It stains nickel heavily. It can be polished off but it is a lot of work.


I was looking at getting Raystorm 750 AX360 kit or RX360. It's my first liquid cooled rig, and everyone recommended those two to be the best kits esp for beginners. I will be cooling my 4770K, my 2 EVGA GTX 4GB ACX Superclocked 770s in SLI mainly, but I saw some rigs with RAM water blocks, are they good? Are they necessary to have maximum performance/cooling temps? Please help me out here ANYONE. I want this rig to b flawless and High End, cuz I do plan on OC'ing CPU and Vid card, benchmarking and alot of gaming. Also wanted to know *what are you guys recommended tubing diameters? which size is sturdy, but also flexible enough for tight bends?* see list below.



Any suggestions or assistance will be appreciated.


----------



## WebsterXC

RAM blocks are primarily for asthetics only and have a negligible increase in overclocks and performance. I used a RAM block in my rig for the sole reason that it looked cool in the loop. My memory still sits at 1866Mhz, nothing higher.

If you're going to be overclocking, benchmarking, and you want your rig to be "high end", you're going to need way more radiator space than a single RX360.

Rule of thumb is 120mm of radiator space per block +120mm extra.


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> RAM blocks are primarily for asthetics only and have a negligible increase in overclocks and performance. I used a RAM block in my rig for the sole reason that it looked cool in the loop. My memory still sits at 1866Mhz, nothing higher.
> 
> If you're going to be overclocking, benchmarking, and you want your rig to be "high end", you're going to need way more radiator space than a single RX360.
> 
> Rule of thumb is 120mm of radiator space per block +120mm extra.


How much more do i need? what other rads should I get to go with my RX or AX360??? Because I want to bench really well and I dn't want anything to "Under Perform" my rigs potential or performance.


----------



## WebsterXC

I don't know what your case is, so I couldn't tell you for sure.

Any tubing size will work fine, strength and bendability of tubing is determined more on it's formulation rather than size. I personally use 1/2 x 3/4 tubing, but it's mostly personal preference.


----------



## fnyk

Just becos i can


----------



## macandy13

Has anyone noticed the new SLI bridges EVGA have just released, I'm not sure if i like them or not. Thinking of getting one for my 780's when I put them under water









EDIT: I was just looking at some RAM blocks and was thinking of getting some for the next build but after reading that, it pretty much confirms what i was thinking about the negligible performance difference


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Has anyone noticed the new SLI bridges EVGA have just released, I'm not sure if i like them or not. Thinking of getting one for my 780's when I put them under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I was just looking at some RAM blocks and was thinking of getting some for the next build but after reading that, it pretty much confirms what i was thinking about the negligible performance difference


RAM blocks are eye candy


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> 
> Just becos i can


Uhh u missing something chump...



and



Becasue its ROG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! XDXDXDXD









Now your set is COMPLETE!!!! LOL


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> RAM blocks are eye candy


Yeah they look pretty sweet but am still unsure about them :/


----------



## szeged

EK needs to hurry up and release the z87 asus rog waterblocks.


----------



## szeged

and until EK gets the blocks in, ill go ahead and try hard acrylic for now, heres what i got in PPC cart atm for just 1 cpu block, 1 gpu block, 1 tube res, 1 d5 pump, 1 360 rad, 1 420 rad.



everything look good to everyone? enough fittings to go around the entire loop?

also, before i buy, anyone know if the primochill silicon insert will fit in the e22 tubing? the e22 insert is sold out atm. if not, i could get primochill tubing and primochill fittings instead.


----------



## Tarnix

I woke up this afternoon with my fire alarm ringing in my ears. I look at the pc and I see flames...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Uhh u missing something chump...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Becasue its ROG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! XDXDXDXD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now your set is COMPLETE!!!! LOL


Where do they sell that board with the "armored" cover? I can't see it for sale here in Europe...

Edit:

Nevermind, found it, but out of stock everywhere.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I woke up this afternoon with my fire alarm ringing in my ears. I look at the pc and I see flames...
> 
> That was the first and last ROG board I ever bought.
> 
> And my next pc will be Intel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy crap, what happened there man?


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I woke up this afternoon with my fire alarm ringing in my ears. I look at the pc and I see flames...
> 
> That was the first and last ROG board I ever bought.
> 
> And my next pc will be Intel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy crap, what happened there man?
Click to expand...

The cpu ATX 4pin went up in flames, after the 8-pin died a month ago. IT wasn'T even under abuse, only folding at 4.6Ghz (FX-8350, stock 4.0GHz)


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> The cpu ATX 4pin went up in flames, after the 8-pin died a month ago. IT wasn'T even under abuse, only folding at 4.6Ghz (FX-8350, stock 4.0GHz)


Sorry to hear that. It definitely sounds like a bad board though, that doesn't usually happen unless you have a weird mining computer running wired incorrectly, or something like that.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I woke up this afternoon with my fire alarm ringing in my ears. I look at the pc and I see flames...
> 
> That was the first and last ROG board I ever bought.
> 
> And my next pc will be Intel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ahhhhhhhhhh....it's like scorched earth









Sucks big time.................


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Where do they sell that board with the "armored" cover? I can't see it for sale here in Europe...
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Nevermind, found it, but out of stock everywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg has it right now for 329.99 USD
> 
> Holy crap, what happened there man?


Jesus wow that's horrible. Wat happened?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I woke up this afternoon with my fire alarm ringing in my ears. I look at the pc and I see flames...
> 
> That was the first and last ROG board I ever bought.
> 
> And my next pc will be Intel.


That sucks dude. Usually the 4-pin is an auxiliary cpu power connector to provide extra juice to the cpu in conjunction with the 8-pin cpu (for extreme oc'ing). I strongly feel that 4-pin was not enough for a high end cpu and it overloaded and heated and burnt







Too late for rma but I think (in hindsight) you should have taken care of this when the 8-pin went out, as it was avoidable.

Good luck and tbh, imho wouldn't blame Asus/Rog.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

guys, I hate the dual bay res that came with my XSPC kit. I want to know if anyone has any advice on a pump and a tube res that I can fit where my first HDD cage should be. The case is a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That sucks dude. Usually the 4-pin is an auxiliary cpu power connector to provide extra juice to the cpu in conjunction with the 8-pin cpu (for extreme oc'ing). I strongly feel that 4-pin was not enough for a high end cpu and it overloaded and heated and burnt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too late for rma but I think (in hindsight) you should have taken care of this when the 8-pin went out, as it was avoidable.
> 
> Good luck and tbh, imho wouldn't blame Asus/Rog.


even if it was asus fault, i wouldnt try to rma it with them, you could get a minimum wage job, and in the 4 months time it takes them to even consider replacing your product, you could have bought a new one


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> even if it was asus fault, i wouldnt try to rma it with them, you could get a minimum wage job, and in the 4 months time it takes them to even consider replacing your product, you could have bought a new one


No way there gonna take that as soon as they see it







. But, I have seen cases where the user didn't do anything out of the ordinary and things like this have happened. Usually there's a lengthy back-and-forth between asus support but there have been cases where Asus will take it in. Usually you may need supervisor/management approval. I know some companies like Corsair will sometimes take the hit for any fall out damage their products may have cause.

Personally, i wouldn't rma it, but it don't hurt to ask


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> even if it was asus fault, i wouldnt try to rma it with them, you could get a minimum wage job, and in the 4 months time it takes them to even consider replacing your product, you could have bought a new one


When I RMA'd my Asus Z9PE-D8 WS it was the fastest turn around I have ever had. Gigabyte and EVGA were a joke in comparison.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No way there gonna take that as soon as they see it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But, I have seen cases where the user didn't do anything out of the ordinary and things like this have happened. Usually there's a lengthy back-and-forth between asus support but there have been cases where Asus will take it in. Usually you may need supervisor/management approval. I know some companies like Corsair will sometimes take the hit for any fall out damage their products may have cause.
> 
> Personally, i wouldn't rma it, but it don't hurt to ask


i got my asus boards knowing that ill probably never rma them even if theyre under warranty because id rather just buy a new one than wait 3-4 months to be told it was my fault and i have to pay the price of a new board to get a refurbished one from them.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> When I RMA'd my Asus Z9PE-D8 WS it was the fastest turn around I have ever had. Gigabyte and EVGA were a joke in comparison.


ive never had to rma with asus, how long did it take you? ive rma'd with evga and from time of arrival of my titan, to getting it back was about 3-4 days. They overnight shipped it for free to me to make sure i got it back in time, even though i originally said just do 5 day ground.


----------



## wermad

GB was uber fast. Got a my Sniper3 replacement back in a week after sending it. It don't hurt they're just a few hours away from me and i sent it via priority mail









Back on-topic: Made some purchases today:





Will look sweet with my incoming Mayhems Sunset Yellow Pastel


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> GB was uber fast. Got a my Sniper3 replacement back in a week after sending it. It don't hurt they're just a few hours away from me and i sent it via priority mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back on-topic: Made some purchases today:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will look sweet with my incoming Mayhems Sunset Yellow Pastel


are you no longer doing hard acrylic?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> are you no longer doing hard acrylic?


Despite everyone telling him not to give up, I think he gave up


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Despite everyone telling him not to give up, I think he gave up


that sucks lol, just as i was starting to go for hard acrylic in my 900d, was hoping to be able to steal...i mean, ask for ideas from him


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> are you no longer doing hard acrylic?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Despite everyone telling him not to give up, I think he gave up
Click to expand...

I wasn't getting results i wanted to. My rig is just a bit too cramped and over complex for some of the shorter runs. I had a lot of cracked and pinched lines. You really need a simple loop and/or a bit of room to make some nice fluid lines. Just for the cpu and gpu alone I made ~5 lines and they were all crap. Ran through 24 feet of tube in day trying to sort this out. If you look at Darth Beavis build, its just amazing and that extra space in the CL does help. I have a couple too many rads to make acrylic work but I rather keep my rads then go w/ acrylic. In the end, it was all about showing off the Mayhems Pastel Yellow rather then acrylic tube. I just went with the idea since I have access to a lot of acrylic that's cheap to buy.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I wasn't getting results i wanted to. My rig is just a bit too cramped and over complex for some of the shorter runs. I had a lot of cracked and pinched lines. You really need a simple loop and/or a bit of room to make some nice fluid lines. Just for the cpu and gpu alone I made ~5 lines and they were all crap. Ran through 24 feet of tube in day trying to sort this out. If you look at Darth Beavis build, its just amazing and that extra space in the CL does help. I have a couple too many rads to make acrylic work but I rather keep my rads then go w/ acrylic. In the end, it was all about showing off the Mayhems Pastel Yellow rather then acrylic tube. I just went with the idea since I have access to a lot of acrylic that's cheap to buy.


I understand everything but a 900D not having enough space :/ This seems crazy to me, lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I wasn't getting results i wanted to. My rig is just a bit too cramped and over complex for some of the shorter runs. I had a lot of cracked and pinched lines. You really need a simple loop and/or a bit of room to make some nice fluid lines. Just for the cpu and gpu alone I made ~5 lines and they were all crap. Ran through 24 feet of tube in day trying to sort this out. If you look at Darth Beavis build, its just amazing and that extra space in the CL does help. I have a couple too many rads to make acrylic work but I rather keep my rads then go w/ acrylic. In the end, it was all about showing off the Mayhems Pastel Yellow rather then acrylic tube. I just went with the idea since I have access to a lot of acrylic that's cheap to buy.


aw well thats unfortunate. Im gonna try to do a acrylic loop this week, might buy a few extra angle fittings just incase i run into problems of really small bends cracking. I was originally planning to do all straight acrylic with tons of fittings kind of like in the singularity computer videos, but i didnt want to straight up copy someones technique lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I understand everything but a 900D not having enough space :/ This seems crazy to me, lol


Lol, yeah, I stuffed that like a pig. Had to hack it a bit but I have two 480s, a 360, a 240, and a 120 HL gtx rads in there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> aw well thats unfortunate. Im gonna try to do a acrylic loop this week, might buy a few extra angle fittings just incase i run into problems of really small bends cracking. I was originally planning to do all straight acrylic with tons of fittings kind of like in the singularity computer videos, but i didnt want to straight up copy someones technique lol.


By all means if you need some pics for help, feel free to look at mine. Its pretty much the same concept for everyone and for nylon tube as well. You can always play with it and make some nice designs but keep in mind the restriction you'll be adding







.

Left you some more info/reply in the Acrylic bending thread


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That sucks dude. Usually the 4-pin is an auxiliary cpu power connector to provide extra juice to the cpu in conjunction with the 8-pin cpu (for extreme oc'ing). I strongly feel that 4-pin was not enough for a high end cpu and it overloaded and heated and burnt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too late for rma but I think (in hindsight) you should have taken care of this when the 8-pin went out, as it was avoidable.
> 
> Good luck and tbh, imho wouldn't blame Asus/Rog.


Well perhaps I had a bit of user error by not using both of the connectors at once, however I have other reasons not to buy a ROG board again. I rarely do things with a single reason. I have issues with the USB stuff, the voltages are everything but stable, etc etc. Either way, that was the only board who was 100% FX ready, and I don't want to buy an inferior board, nor the same.








I'm not raging at it, I just see it as a stepping stone to more knowledge.
Quote:


> you should have taken care of this when the 8-pin went out, as it was avoidable.


yeah, but it's hard to conjure 270$ in a single month.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, yeah, I stuffed that like a pig. Had to hack it a bit but I have two 480s, a 360, a 240, and a 120 HL gtx rads in there.


Starting to make sense now, lol....that is so much radiator


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ive never had to rma with asus, how long did it take you? ive rma'd with evga and from time of arrival of my titan, to getting it back was about 3-4 days. They overnight shipped it for free to me to make sure i got it back in time, even though i originally said just do 5 day ground.


They shipped out a new board within hours of receiving the bad board.


----------



## TampaChaz

I feel like such a noob! I bought blood red primochill ice and didn't get extra dye.....now I have a pink loop in my red nzxt phantom...rofl. This is what happens when I rush! Doh!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Well perhaps I had a bit of user error by not using both of the connectors at once, however I have other reasons not to buy a ROG board again. I rarely do things with a single reason. I have issues with the USB stuff, the voltages are everything but stable, etc etc. Either way, that was the only board who was 100% FX ready, and I don't want to buy an inferior board, nor the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not raging at it, I just see it as a stepping stone to more knowledge.
> yeah, but it's hard to conjure 270$ in a single month.


How about a used ud7 990? i hear this is one if not the best am3 mb.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Starting to make sense now, lol....that is so much radiator


Lol, I'm trying to plot my loop and it still causes some head scratching. But after some thought, its coming along. Just ran out of angle adapters


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They shipped out a new board within hours of receiving the bad board.


wow that is exceptionally fast, glad it worked out for you









i have no personal experience with asus as of late, my last board from them was for my e8400







but ive read so many horror stories about them that i usually stuck with gigabyte until the hero was released.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How about a used ud7 990? i hear this is one if not the best am3 mb.


yeah, I considered GB for my future builds. I however would rather invest in an i7-4770 than keep buying motherboards for a CPU that doesn't really satisfies me anymore.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, I'm trying to plot my loop and it still causes some head scratching. But after some thought, its coming along. Just ran out of angle adapters


Hate it when that happens.........


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> yeah, I considered GB for my future builds. I however would rather invest in an i7-4770 than keep buying motherboards for a CPU that doesn't really satisfies me anymore.


If you don't have a lot of cash, SB is s till a great buy. There's a ton of P67/Z68 mb out there for cheap. A while ago I bought a used MIVE-P67 for ~$90 USD. 2500ks are cheap but 2600k/2700k are still holding a bit strong since ppl shy away from the heat issues of IB and Haswell. I'm sure you can find a SB setup for ~$200 USD. Other then that, if you have money to spend, I would go w/ IB since Haswell has no major advantage and it still has the heat issues or go SB-E or IB-E.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hate it when that happens.........


I placed a quick order on ebay since the seller is closer then ordering from FL or NY (ppcs.com and frozencpu.com). Eventually I might go w/ all same fittings since its coming down to a hosh posh of a few different extensions/adapter of several makes.


----------



## stickg1

Back to the board that set fire. You should have RMA'd when the 8-pin stopped working first and foremost. But having USB issues as well just sounds like it was a lemon. You should have RMA'd already. The 4-pin is auxiliary power, because it says this in the manual, ASUS might not accept your RMA now because of user error. However, you should still fill out a support ticket and before they even respond call them.

On the topic of RMA's. I have RMA'd motherboards with ASUS twice, motherboard with Gigabyte one, GPU with EVGA last week, and even a mobo with Biostar. All of them were taken care of in two weeks or less, EVGA was the best, I had a new GPU shipped to me 2 day shipping in advance.

Biostar sent me back the same board unfixed, so I sent it back again, then they sent me a board with the RAM slot working again but the USB was messed up. It was a $60 AMD board, I had already spent $40 shipping it to them twice so I just gave up on it and as a result will never buy a Biostar product again.

That being said, ASUS, Giga, and EVGA were great. But as I advised burnt cap Crosshair dude at the beginning of my post, call them. Explain your situation, but more importantly, assert yourself as being knowledgeable as a PC enthusiast. They will take care of you, they don't want you to have a bad experience. They just have to be thorough because of all the noobs out there messing up products and claiming they don't know what happened to it. If you explain in detail, it expedites the process for both parties.

Good luck!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Can we stop talking about the burnt board and get back to watercooling pics?


----------



## WebsterXC

Some final shots of my rig:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Some final shots of my rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you contacted ek on making a special request Z77-CSQ bridge in plexi? I definitely understand why you didn't go w/ the acetal one. Awesome looking btw


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Have you contacted ek on making a special request Z77-CSQ bridge in plexi? I definitely understand why you didn't go w/ the acetal one. Awesome looking btw


I wish I would have, but I'm going to college in a week so I don't have time


----------



## CircuitFreak

Well this will be the third case I've water cooled now and probably the one I'm most happy with.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you don't have a lot of cash, SB is s till a great buy. There's a ton of P67/Z68 mb out there for cheap. A while ago I bought a used MIVE-P67 for ~$90 USD. 2500ks are cheap but 2600k/2700k are still holding a bit strong since ppl shy away from the heat issues of IB and Haswell. I'm sure you can find a SB setup for ~$200 USD. Other then that, if you have money to spend, I would go w/ IB since Haswell has no major advantage and it still has the heat issues or go SB-E or IB-E.


Feel free to PM me about heat issues thing, because I'd like to know more, but feel like I'm topic bashing. I'm still debating between *K or virtualization.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Can we stop talking about the burnt board and get back to watercooling pics?


Gladly








Though, I'm not posting my current setup. it quite color clashes right now since backup MB.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*
> 
> Well this will be the third case I've water cooled now and probably the one I'm most happy with.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is one of the weirdest loops I have ever seen.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*
> 
> Well this will be the third case I've water cooled now and probably the one I'm most happy with.


I like! Nice and tidy! So clean







Would go with this any day over a cls like the h100.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I like! Nice and tidy! So clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would go with this any day over a cls like the h100.


if he sleeved those cables to all black i would say its one of the cleanest watercooled loops ive seen in a long time.


----------



## wermad

Just buy some Alchemy extensions and your set


----------



## szeged

ive heard of extensions damaging psus/components after a while, which is why i prefer to always sleeve my own stuff







that and the satisfaction of doing everything myself lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ive heard of extensions damaging psus/components after a while, which is why i prefer to always sleeve my own stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that and the satisfaction of doing everything myself lol


How could you damage a psu with an extension? Physically it is the same for both ends. Electrically, the longer cable and extra connector is such a negligible difference in resistance. So the current draw will be basically the same and it is a regulated voltage. You end up with essentially the same power consumption. How could this cause any type of problem?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> How could you damage a psu with an extension? Physically it is the same for both ends. Electrically, the longer cable and extra connector is such a negligible difference in resistance. So the current draw will be basically the same and it is a regulated voltage. You end up with essentially the same power consumption. How could this cause any type of problem?


i dont know specifics but there have been a few posts here where the people end up with extensions melted to motherboard pcbs or melted to the connection point of the psus cable/extension. I would say it was a psu problem but some of the posts had high quality psus that werent known to blow up like that with just their cables, and in all instances the bitfenix alchemy extensions were used.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ive heard of extensions damaging psus/components after a while, which is why i prefer to always sleeve my own stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that and the satisfaction of doing everything myself lol


Good lord, after doing several psu(s) I'm no longer sleeving them. What a pita and time consuming job. I don't find any satisfaction in the work tbh (unless you're a masochist







). I had some Alchemy extensions and loved them. Sold them to make some money back after buying three GTX 780s. I wanted to pick some up but they don't have any yellow colored ones. I know some ppls say its cheating but i see it as a quick mod to make things look better. Plus, the quality has been really good in the Alchemy line.

btw: I actually used extensions with quad 580 3gbs, quad 690s, sli Titans, and now w/ 780s and I have had no damage







. I think these are myths since they fallow atx standards so there shouldn't be any issues.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good lord, after doing several psu(s) I'm no longer sleeving them. What a pita and time consuming job. I don't find any satisfaction in the work tbh (unless you're a masochist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I had some Alchemy extensions and loved them. Sold them to make some money back after buying three GTX 780s. I wanted to pick some up but they don't have any yellow colored ones. I know some ppls say its cheating but i see it as a quick mod to make things look better. Plus, the quality has been really good in the Alchemy line.
> 
> btw: I actually used extensions with quad 580 3gbs, quad 690s, sli Titans, and now w/ 780s and I have had no damage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I think these are myths since they fallow atx standards so there shouldn't be any issues.


hey if you like them and it saves you time and frustration, go for it









i just personally enjoy sleeving all my own cables lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey if you like them and it saves you time and frustration, go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just personally enjoy sleeving all my own cables lol


I need yellow ones to match my Sunset Yellow Pastel









Damn you! Now I'm thinking of sleeving my psu....Must resist, remembering old ocz psu and what a pita due to caps....aaarrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhh. Paracord is still sucky for sleeving (imho)......

Anyone running a Supremacy??? Which is the best plate for SB LGA1155? Thanks


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I need yellow ones to match my Sunset Yellow Pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn you! Now I'm thinking of sleeving my psu....Must resist, remembering old ocz psu and what a pita due to caps....aaarrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhh. Paracord is still sucky for sleeving (imho)......
> 
> Anyone running a Supremacy??? Which is the best plate for SB LGA1155? Thanks


just getting done sleeving the evga supernova 1000g2, has so many capacitors on it, i wanted to die after finishing the 24 pin lol, but i must push on! this build demands greatness, no....it deserves it!

anyways pics inc soon after acrylic gear arrives


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running a Supremacy??? Which is the best plate for SB LGA1155? Thanks


It says which one in the manual. IIRC it's not the one installed by default though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> It says which one in the manual. IIRC it's not the one installed by default though.


I pulled the manual and it cites 1366/2011/775 but not 1155/1150


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I pulled the manual and it cites 1366/2011/775 but not 1155/1150


Looking at the manual that came with my Supremacy Clean CSQ block, it has to be J2 (1.0mm thick).

My manual states that J2 is optimized for LGA-1155/1156 and it's the only one with 1.0mm thickness. On the manual from EK's website the only 1.0mm thick jet plate is J2 (mentions LGA-755) so I would go with that one.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Looking at the manual that came with my Supremacy Clean CSQ block, it has to be J2 (1.0mm thick).
> 
> My manual states that J2 is optimized for LGA-1155/1156 and it's the only one with 1.0mm thickness. On the manual from EK's website the only 1.0mm thick jet plate is J2 (mentions LGA-755) so I would go with that one.


Awesome







+1


----------



## Daredevil 720

The jet plate's thickness actually regulates how concave the copper base will be. From what I understand by reading the manual, the smaller the chip is the more concave the copper base needs to be.

LGA-775/1155/1156 needs the 1.0mm jet plate.
LGA-1366 needs the 0.8mm jet plate.
LGA-2011 needs the 0.7mm jet plate.

There may be some variation on the slit in the center, but that's what I understood regarding the thickness.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> The jet plate's thickness actually regulates how concave the copper base will be. From what I understand by reading the manual, the smaller the chip is the more concave the copper base needs to be.
> 
> LGA-775/1155/1156 needs the 1.0mm jet plate.
> LGA-1366 needs the 0.8mm jet plate.
> LGA-2011 needs the 0.7mm jet plate.
> 
> There may be some variation on the slit in the center, but that's what I understood regarding the thickness.


I always think the larger slit for larger chip on the CPU. IDK.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> How could you damage a psu with an extension? Physically it is the same for both ends. Electrically, the longer cable and extra connector is such a negligible difference in resistance. So the current draw will be basically the same and it is a regulated voltage. You end up with essentially the same power consumption. How could this cause any type of problem?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont know specifics but there have been a few posts here where the people end up with extensions melted to motherboard pcbs or melted to the connection point of the psus cable/extension. I would say it was a psu problem but some of the posts had high quality psus that werent known to blow up like that with just their cables, and in all instances the bitfenix alchemy extensions were used.


You mean like these?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> You mean like these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ouch, you sleeved those yourself? Maybe crossed a few wires there. Painful


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont know specifics but there have been a few posts here where the people end up with extensions melted to motherboard pcbs or melted to the connection point of the psus cable/extension. I would say it was a psu problem but some of the posts had high quality psus that werent known to blow up like that with just their cables, and in all instances the bitfenix alchemy extensions were used.


I have used the bitfenix extensions and i had a problem with them once. The graphics card did not produce any image, so i checked the power cable and there was a pin loose from the connector. Now that is the only reason i can think of that could possibly ''burn'' something if the pin started to ''weld/spark'' due to bad contact. So I recommend checking connections before powering the PC to avoid this.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ouch, you sleeved those yourself? Maybe crossed a few wires there. Painful


Actually, I did not!

Paid a relatively known website for a full set of cables and that's what happened..

They then offered me a discount on my next set of cables from them when I brought it to their attention


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Actually, I did not!
> 
> Paid a relatively known website for a full set of cables and that's what happened..
> 
> They then offered me a discount on my next set of cables from them when I brought it to their attention


That's got to be some kind of welding going on due to loose wires. The amperage is high enough to make some sirius heat.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> EK needs to hurry up and release the z87 asus rog waterblocks.


The Hero, Gene, and Extreme are designed and we have prototypes. All that's left is to see the other SKUs then shipping will start 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> GB was uber fast. Got a my Sniper3 replacement back in a week after sending it. It don't hurt they're just a few hours away from me and i sent it via priority mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back on-topic: Made some purchases today:


:wheee:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey if you like them and it saves you time and frustration, go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just personally enjoy sleeving all my own cables lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone running a Supremacy??? Which is the best plate for SB LGA1155? Thanks
Click to expand...

Jetplate 3 is the best Wermad


----------



## wermad

Thanks Derick


----------



## oelkanne

@friskiest

That is some Bullshhhhhh...and the best ive ever Read...(They then offered me a discount on my next set of cables from them when I brought it to their attention )

*** do they think they are?....is like...i dont care if youre cards burn to Hell but i sold my cables...

So People of WC Club

I need youre Help again?How should i do my tubing on this? Im kind of confused and out of Ideas right now
THX for every Help







My Problem is the Ram sektion the Rest of the System comes when my Grafiks arrived back from doing shiny









So this?



or like this?



As a non US-member i hope you Understand what i meant to explain


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Jetplate 3 is the best Wermad


My block only came with 3 jet plates (not 4 as in the latest manual on your website) and it mentions that the one optimized for LGA-1155 is J2 with 1.0mm thickness.

What's going on here?


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*


This one. It looks cleaner then version 2.

MetallicAcid


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Jetplate 3 is the best Wermad
> 
> 
> 
> My block only came with 3 jet plates (not 4 as in the latest manual on your website) and it mentions that the one optimized for LGA-1155 is J2 with 1.0mm thickness.
> 
> What's going on here?
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you bought your block a while ago? J4 is relatively new, we started officially bundling it around late May or early June I believe? These results found by Moonman over on XS are also relatively new info from late spring/early summer. We try to keep everything updated but we can't really change orders that have already shipped


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> @friskiest
> 
> That is some Bullshhhhhh...and the best ive ever Read...(They then offered me a discount on my next set of cables from them when I brought it to their attention )
> 
> *** do they think they are?....is like...i dont care if youre cards burn to Hell but i sold my cables...


I know, I was and I still am pretty pissed.

Luckily, I was able to RMA my Asus 680 TOP for a 1 to 1 replacement. Imagine if I'd had both my cards in at the same time.

I wrote a poor review on the sellers website, and that got taken down magically.

I cut my losses and moved on. Not much else I can do.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm assuming you bought your block a while ago? J4 is relatively new, we started officially bundling it around late May or early June I believe? These results found by Moonman over on XS are also relatively new info from late spring/early summer. We try to keep everything updated but we can't really change orders that have already shipped


But my manual says J2 is for LGA-1155/1156 and J3 is for LGA-2011. How can J3 outperform J2 by 2 whole °C on the 3770K? That's not outdated, that's mistaken.

And now J2 is for LGA-775 (not there before), J3 is for LGA-1155/1156 and J4 is for LGA-2011. Really disappointed by this...

Can I change from the 1.0mm thick J2 to the 0.7mm thick J3 after 1-2 months of use or has the copper base become too stretched for it?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm assuming you bought your block a while ago? J4 is relatively new, we started officially bundling it around late May or early June I believe? These results found by Moonman over on XS are also relatively new info from late spring/early summer. We try to keep everything updated but we can't really change orders that have already shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But my manual says J2 is for LGA-1155/1156 and J3 is for LGA-2011. How can J3 outperform J2 by 2 whole °C on the 3770K? That's not outdated, that's mistaken.
> 
> And now J2 is for LGA-775 (not there before), J3 is for LGA-1155/1156 and J4 is for LGA-2011. Really disappointed by this...
> 
> Can I change from the 1.0mm thick J2 to the 0.7mm thick J3 after 1-2 months of use or has the copper base become too stretched for it?
Click to expand...

Nobody is perfect and we don't try to be. Stuff happens and we provide the latest up to date info that is available.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Could you please then try and get the info to answer my question?


----------



## Swag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Could you please then try and get the info to answer my question?


Nobody *needs* to answer your question. While asking, you should attempt to look for the answer yourself. Your post to me sounds kind of forceful and rude-toned.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Could you please then try and get the info to answer my question?


It'll be fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Could you please then try and get the info to answer my question?
> 
> 
> 
> Nobody *needs *to answer your question. While asking, you should attempt to look for the answer yourself. Your post to me sounds kind of forceful and rude-toned.
Click to expand...


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Nobody *needs* to answer your question. While asking, you should attempt to look for the answer yourself. Your post to me sounds kind of forceful and rude-toned.


I didn't mean to be rude nor forceful. I'm just kinda pissed that's all.

And I don't think the answer I'm looking for exists out there..

Of course he's not obliged to answer me, that's why I said "Could you please..".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It'll be fine.


Thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> even if it was asus fault, i wouldnt try to rma it with them, you could get a minimum wage job, and in the 4 months time it takes them to even consider replacing your product, you could have bought a new one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I RMA'd my Asus Z9PE-D8 WS it was the fastest turn around I have ever had. Gigabyte and EVGA were a joke in comparison.
Click to expand...

ASUS RMA dept is staffed with chickens with no heads......this is well documented.
Glad your RMA went well tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> I woke up this afternoon with my fire alarm ringing in my ears. I look at the pc and I see flames...
> 
> That was the first and last ROG board I ever bought.
> 
> And my next pc will be Intel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That sucks dude. Usually the 4-pin is an auxiliary cpu power connector to provide extra juice to the cpu in conjunction with the 8-pin cpu (for extreme oc'ing). I strongly feel that 4-pin was not enough for a high end cpu and it overloaded and heated and burnt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too late for rma but I think (in hindsight) you should have taken care of this when the 8-pin went out, as it was avoidable.
> 
> Good luck and tbh, imho wouldn't blame Asus/Rog.
Click to expand...

This...so very much this
Intel are not exempt either,google burnt ASUS 8 pin......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Jetplate 3 is the best Wermad
> 
> 
> 
> My block only came with 3 jet plates (not 4 as in the latest manual on your website) and it mentions that the one optimized for LGA-1155 is J2 with 1.0mm thickness.
> 
> What's going on here?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm assuming you bought your block a while ago? J4 is relatively new, we started officially bundling it around late May or early June I believe? These results found by Moonman over on XS are also relatively new info from late spring/early summer. We try to keep everything updated but we can't really change orders that have already shipped
Click to expand...

Didnt EK offer the plates for free for the early adopters? Im sure Niko posted something about this.......


----------



## derickwm

Yup, and we're still offering them. I'm not allowed to post the link though so you're on your own there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yup, and we're still offering them. I'm not allowed to post the link though so you're on your own there.


Let me help.

http://www.ekwb.com/news/349/19/EK-Supremacy-Jet-J3-now-standard-new-jet-plate-J4-for-LGA-2011/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

ooooh! got an unexplained delivery today......




















Thanks Lamptron!

Time for testings!


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ooooh! got an unexplained delivery today......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Lamptron!
> 
> Time for testings!


So jealous...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ooooh! got an unexplained delivery today......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Lamptron!
> 
> Time for testings!


Want


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhaze84*
> 
> GPU block and new reservoir came in. I'm definitely enjoying not having to deal with a bay res anymore.


Is that the AX360 or the RX360? Because I was planning to get either one of those kits for my upcoming build.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ooooh! got an unexplained delivery today......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Lamptron!
> 
> Time for testings!


Lets hope it is more reliable than the FC5 V2


----------



## defiler2k

So I ran in to an issue last night while I was playing, I moved my 480rad to the bottom of my 900D to clean up the loop and I noticed that the panel restricts airflow dramatically causing the radiator to not get enough cool air through to cool the coolant. I noticed that after an hour of Metro my temps on the coolant were steadily climbing and were close to 42C, this never happened when I had the rad on the top of the loop. If I pop open the window that hides the fans/rad temperatures drop dramatically, coolant temperatures dropped from 42.8C to 21C in a few minutes with the fans on high. I even left Valley running to see if temperatures would continue to lower and even with the fans in silent operation the coolant never got past 24C with the fans on their lowest.

I decided I want to add another rad to the top to deal with the heat however, I was wondering if I can invert my loop meaning that instead of going in the top of my GPU link I would be coming in from the bottom?

I can also ad a 240 behind the drive cages also. Plus Im debating if I should ditch the bay reservoir and and move to a tube Res with a twin MCP655 top mod attached. See my crappy diagram below.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ooooh! got an unexplained delivery today......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Lamptron!
> 
> Time for testings!


It's a beaut!!!









You'll love it, really you will...









Mine will be finding a new home in my MH10 (Haswell) build.

Thanks - T


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Is that the AX360 or the RX360? Because I was planning to get either one of those kits for my upcoming build.


These are two AX240s.


----------



## Kurio

Nice build. Keep em' coming. Atm working on Arc Midi build with 2x 780 and 1x 240 and 1x 280.

I'll swap the case to something with quality soon. A LD V7 maybe or LD V8. V7 is better for LAN tho.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> Nice build. Keep em' coming. Atm working on Arc Midi build with 2x 780 and 1x 240 and 1x 280.
> 
> I'll swap the case to something with quality soon. A LD V7 maybe or LD V8. V7 is better for LAN tho.




But you have so much room to play around in the V8


----------



## Ishinomori

http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Archaon27/media/Fusion/P1010459_zps52262ea0.jpg.html

Beginnings of my first ever watercooling loop.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ooooh! got an unexplained delivery today......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Lamptron!
> 
> Time for testings!


Have fun and be patient . . .

I bought 2 of them when they came out, and have since decided not to use them.

All the scrolling around with the little wheel, push, push-hold, push - scroll . . . . total PITA

The temp referenced, settable range, auto fan speed control is a really nice feature though.

It's not a touch screen, but it's bright and very readable.

I just prefer having everything displayed simultaneously without having to scroll thru to select one thing to view at a time.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ooooh! got an unexplained delivery today......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Lamptron!
> 
> Time for testings!
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun and be patient . . .
> 
> I bought 2 of them when they came out, and have since decided not to use them.
> 
> All the scrolling around with the little wheel, push, push-hold, push - scroll . . . . total PITA
> 
> The temp referenced, settable range, auto fan speed control is a really nice feature though.
> 
> It's not a touch screen, but it's bright and very readable.
> 
> I just prefer having everything displayed simultaneously without having to scroll thru to select one thing to view at a time.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

The 5 mins i have spent with it have run much along the same way as yourself....

All that screen yet its not used...

Its no Aquaero but its not priced like one either,its not bad at all for the money.


----------



## Trolle BE

my first loop is finally installed,sorry for the cellphone pics
http://s645.photobucket.com/user/trollebolle/media/goed2_zpseec9addf.jpg.html
http://s645.photobucket.com/user/trollebolle/media/goed_zpsb6f025e4.jpg.html

nothing to special but im happy with it


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> my first loop is finally installed,sorry for the cellphone pics
> http://s645.photobucket.com/user/trollebolle/media/goed2_zpseec9addf.jpg.html
> http://s645.photobucket.com/user/trollebolle/media/goed_zpsb6f025e4.jpg.html
> 
> nothing to special but im happy with it


What CPU do you have in there, at what clocks, and what kind of temps do you get?

Sorry for like, interrogating, but I'm trying to figure out what my loop will be like, I think mine will be very similar to yours.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> What CPU do you have in there, at what clocks, and what kind of temps do you get?
> 
> *Sorry for like, interrogating,* but I'm trying to figure out what my loop will be like, I think mine will be very similar to yours.


WHERE ARE THE REBEL BASES?!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ooooh! got an unexplained delivery today......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Lamptron!
> Time for testings!


Great FC! I used one on a build I did for a buddy and I really liked it.


----------



## islandgam3r

*QUICK QUESTION: Hey guys I am looking at waterblocks for my EVGA ACX 4 GB GTX 770s (2 of them) I wanted to know if the XSPC Razor waterblock will fit them no issues and how would I go about installing it? Please HELP!!!!*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I ran in to an issue last night while I was playing, I moved my 480rad to the bottom of my 900D to clean up the loop and I noticed that the panel restricts airflow dramatically causing the radiator to not get enough cool air through to cool the coolant. I noticed that after an hour of Metro my temps on the coolant were steadily climbing and were close to 42C, this never happened when I had the rad on the top of the loop. If I pop open the window that hides the fans/rad temperatures drop dramatically, coolant temperatures dropped from 42.8C to 21C in a few minutes with the fans on high. I even left Valley running to see if temperatures would continue to lower and even with the fans in silent operation the coolant never got past 24C with the fans on their lowest.
> 
> I decided I want to add another rad to the top to deal with the heat however, I was wondering if I can invert my loop meaning that instead of going in the top of my GPU link I would be coming in from the bottom?
> 
> I can also ad a 240 behind the drive cages also. Plus Im debating if I should ditch the bay reservoir and and move to a tube Res with a twin MCP655 top mod attached. See my crappy diagram below.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you take off the filters? Its mesh and can resist airflow. Since I keep my fans at 5v and I have a few rads it really doesn't affect temps.


----------



## fnyk

is it the same pcb as the gtx 780 and titan ???

if it is then maybe go with the swiftech gtx titan block

i have seen that it shut bee the best block you can get for them


----------



## fnyk

i was useing a gtx 580 on my evga gtx 570 when it was on water


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> is it the same pcb as the gtx 780 and titan ???
> 
> if it is then maybe go with the swiftech gtx titan block
> 
> i have seen that it shut bee the best block you can get for them


This is the card I plan to get 2 of both with XSPC Razor. see link below

*http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130945*

Will 2 of above cards in SLI work with water block below? How does one install a Waterblock?

*http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20925/ex-blc-1506/XSPC_Razor_GTX_770_Full_Coverage_VGA_Block_-_Reference_Design.html?tl=g30c311s2023&id=j8MGHiid#blank*


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> *QUICK QUESTION: Hey guys I am looking at waterblocks for my EVGA ACX 4 GB GTX 770s (2 of them) I wanted to know if the XSPC Razor waterblock will fit them no issues and how would I go about installing it? Please HELP!!!!*


I have the EVGA 770 2GB SC and I was able to fit the XSPC Razor waterblock on it with no issues.


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> This is the card I plan to get 2 of both with XSPC Razor. see link below
> 
> *http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130945*
> 
> Will 2 of above cards in SLI work with water block below? How does one install a Waterblock?
> 
> *http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20925/ex-blc-1506/XSPC_Razor_GTX_770_Full_Coverage_VGA_Block_-_Reference_Design.html?tl=g30c311s2023&id=j8MGHiid#blank*


OR

*http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/heatkiller-gpu-x-gtx-770-hole-edition-ref-design/*


----------



## fnyk

it looks like its the same pcb as the normal 2 gb just with some extre ram on the other side

like with the gtx titan and gtx 780 its the same pcb just some more ram on the back side and the titan have a gk110 and the 780 have a gk10 gpu

but as i can see then yes it shut fit


----------



## islandgam3r

How do u install a water block? Do u have to do anything like modify card? Help me out because this is my first time doing this.


----------



## Fanboy88

No modification, just remove the old cooler and apply the new thermal pads and re-apply thermal paste before attaching the block. The block comes with everything you need and some instructions as well.


----------



## fnyk

her you go dude

let LinusTechTips show you how to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kF-Hf-z1Jk


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> is it the same pcb as the gtx 780 and titan ???
> 
> if it is then maybe go with the swiftech gtx titan block
> 
> i have seen that it shut bee the best block you can get for them


Titan PCB. =gtx 780 pcb
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> How do u install a water block? Do u have to do anything like modify card? Help me out because this is my first time doing this.


CPU block is similar to a hsf. Normally a backplate + hardware.

Gpu blocks are more involved. Please check out guides and videos to ensure you do it right. Reread the instructions and take your time. And don't be afraid to ask. Recommend to have precision screw drivers (Philips head and torx/star).


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> No modification, just remove the old cooler and apply the new thermal pads and re-apply thermal paste before attaching the block. The block comes with everything you need and some instructions as well.


Thx for info, i really appreciate it. now the vcrd already is superclocked. Do you think tweaking it slightly would be necessary? If so, do i really NEED a waterblock? Will there be a BIG performance diff between the ACX cooler and waterblock? Reason i'm asking is because I've heard and seen great things about the ACX cooling heatsink, and it seems to do a fine job at keeping card really cool. If one cad is really great at cooling, i'm sure SLI wouldnt push the temp too high in SLI mode. Wat r you guys thoughts?


----------



## Fanboy88

Did you buy the card already? Because I think the only reason to buy the ACX version of that card would be if you're cooling on air.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Thx for info, i really appreciate it. now the vcrd already is superclocked. Do you think tweaking it slightly would be necessary? If so, do i really NEED a waterblock? Will there be a BIG performance diff between the ACX cooler and waterblock? Reason i'm asking is because I've heard and seen great things about the ACX cooling heatsink, and it seems to do a fine job at keeping card really cool. If one cad is really great at cooling, i'm sure SLI wouldnt push the temp too high in SLI mode. Wat r you guys thoughts?


I have two EVGA 780 SC ACX cards with the stock cooler in SLI and I must admit it does a pretty damn good job at keeping them cool. I play a lot of demanding games and the cards plough through them as if the game was released 5 years earlier. If you're not planning on overvolting them or similar then I recommend keeping the ACX cooler unless you want to put them under water for the aesthetic look.


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> I have two EVGA 780 SC ACX cards with the stock cooler in SLI and I must admit it does a pretty damn good job at keeping them cool. I play a lot of demanding games and the cards plough through them as if the game was released 5 years earlier. If you're not planning on overvolting them or similar then I recommend keeping the ACX cooler unless you want to put them under water for the aesthetic look.


This ^^


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> Did you buy the card already? Because I think the only reason to buy the ACX version of that card would be if you're cooling on air.


Jus trying to get as much info as possible so I dnt mess something up. Havent bought card yet, but i will be when everything is finalized with build parts, I have 3 wish lists of parts on newegg, with 3 diff mobos, still trying to finalize the selection, ATM the mobo choices i have in front of me are *MSi Z87 Xpower, AsRock Z87 OC Formula or ASUS Maximus VI Z87 Formula*

*http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132038

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157380

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130689 <<Getting from Amazon, has it $30 less than Newegg

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147157 <<Case
*

That is where im at right now.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Jus trying to get as much info as possible so I dnt mess something up. Havent bought card yet, but i will be when everything is finalized with build parts, I have 3 wish lists of parts on newegg, with 3 diff mobos, still trying to finalize the selection, ATM the mobo choices i have in front of me are *MSi Z87 Xpower, AsRock Z87 OC Formula or ASUS Maximus VI Z87 Formula*
> 
> *http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132038
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157380
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130689 <<Getting from Amazon, has it $30 less than Newegg
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147157 <<Case
> *
> 
> That is where im at right now.


You may have already answered this but what are you going to be using the rig for?


----------



## cyphon

mobo came in today











First ROG board...looks pretty slick from the unboxing. Just need to save some $$ for some blocks now


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> I have two EVGA 780 SC ACX cards with the stock cooler in SLI and I must admit it does a pretty damn good job at keeping them cool. I play a lot of demanding games and the cards plough through them as if the game was released 5 years earlier. If you're not planning on overvolting them or similar then I recommend keeping the ACX cooler unless you want to put them under water for the aesthetic look.


Wat r the temp diff between ACX and watercooling? Is it big???

I was thinking of benching my rig when built, so I was told to get best results, watercool everything and the performance will increase, I LOVE the aesthetics of having the whole rig under water, but I also LOVE how the ACX EVGAs look, U gotta love Black and gold....its so nice. and If I get Z87 Xpower with black and yellow contrast it would look pretty sweet imo esp with the fact that all MSI logos on mobo light up and the "X" logo in cpu block area throbs like a Heart beating...so if you see my links I posted earlier all 3 mobos are sooo good, but i just cant decide...


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> You may have already answered this but what are you going to be using the rig for?


Mainly Benching and Hardcore gaming,


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> mobo came in today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First ROG board...looks pretty slick from the unboxing. Just need to save some $$ for some blocks now


gotta love the black and red, especially on that SEXY ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO!!!! or is it the EXTREME?? Doesnt matter to me +INFINITY


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Wat r the temp diff between ACX and watercooling? Is it big???
> 
> I was thinking of benching my rig when built, so I was told to get best results, watercool everything and the performance will increase, I LOVE the aesthetics of having the whole rig under water, but I also LOVE how the ACX EVGAs look, U gotta love Black and gold....its so nice. and If I get Z87 Xpower with black and yellow contrast it would look pretty sweet imo esp with the fact that all MSI logos on mobo light up and the "X" logo in cpu block area throbs like a Heart beating...so if you see my links I posted earlier all 3 mobos are sooo good, but i just cant decide...


I couldn't tell you about the temp difference as I haven't put mine under water yet but they would be like most cards ( around the 40-50C mark) If your benching then go for standard 780's and put them under water. They will handle any game you toss at them regardless.

Only thing bad about leaving them on air coolers is after a while they will heat up the room even with a window open.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Mainly Benching and Hardcore gaming,


Board choice is primarily about whether you are going to be doing more benching than gaming or vice versa.


----------



## kcuestag

@islandgam3r you realize there are edit buttons? There's no need to triple post, use the edit button please.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> my first loop is finally installed,sorry for the cellphone pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s645.photobucket.com/user/trollebolle/media/goed2_zpseec9addf.jpg.html
> http://s645.photobucket.com/user/trollebolle/media/goed_zpsb6f025e4.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> *nothing to special but im happy with it*


That's all that matter brah! Good work!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> @islandgam3r you realize there are edit buttons? There's no need to triple post, use the edit button please.


This


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Wat r the temp diff between ACX and watercooling? Is it big???
> 
> I was thinking of benching my rig when built, so I was told to get best results, watercool everything and the performance will increase, I LOVE the aesthetics of having the whole rig under water, but I also LOVE how the ACX EVGAs look, U gotta love Black and gold....its so nice. and If I get Z87 Xpower with black and yellow contrast it would look pretty sweet imo esp with the fact that all MSI logos on mobo light up and the "X" logo in cpu block area throbs like a Heart beating...so if you see my links I posted earlier all 3 mobos are sooo good, but i just cant decide...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Mainly Benching and Hardcore gaming,


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> gotta love the black and red, especially on that SEXY ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO!!!! or is it the EXTREME?? Doesnt matter to me +INFINITY






Or better yet use the "Multi" button.
Select all the post you want to respond to in order...then at the last post, click "Quote" and that will combine them all into one single post.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> This
> 
> Or better yet use the "Multi" button.
> Select all the post you want to respond to in order...then at the last post, click "Quote" and that will combine them all into one single post.


You should do video tutorial









anyway found that XSPC has been releasing great product recently
that AX series radiator is so beautiful


and the LCD Temperature Display + G1/4″ Inline Sensor
is a bargain!
seriously thinking to get one


----------



## TampaChaz

I am moving the NZXT from workbench to "playroom" tonight after work. I have to have my roomate help me! I didn't use the quick disconnects since everyone told me how horrible they are and so my system and external rad box have to be moved together. I have been building the system on a lazy susan that I use for modding cause it's easy to spin the case around. I picked this beast up for the first time last night since all the components have been added........Needless to say, no LAN parties for THIS bad boy LOL.


----------



## jlhawn

I don't do liquid cooling but I like too look at nice liquid cooling setups.
so can you guys post more pictures and less post of just chatting??
I only see maybe 1 picture every 10 pages.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I don't do liquid cooling but I like too look at nice liquid cooling setups.
> so can you guys post more pictures and less post of just chatting??
> I only see maybe 1 picture every 10 pages.


Might I recommend you select GALLERY from the top navigation bar if you want the picture book version


----------



## szeged

hey EK, any spoilers of the asus z87 rog board waterblocks? if not, how about a status update on their arrival at resellers


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I don't do liquid cooling but I like too look at nice liquid cooling setups.
> so can you guys post more pictures and less post of just chatting??
> I only see maybe 1 picture every 10 pages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Might I recommend you select GALLERY from the top navigation bar if you want the picture book version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

He's got a point though. I like to pop in here now and then for a good look at the "gallery", but lately it has mostly been chatter.


----------



## nepToon

I can't sleep because im afraid of what I've just put together:


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> I can't sleep because im afraid of what I've just put together:


and the ghetto award goes tooooooooooooooo


----------



## wermad

Meh, child's play









Try tackingling three or worse yet, three 480s


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Meh, child's play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try tackingling three or worse yet, three 480s


^I've seen this guys projects err monsters...he's tackled some tough stuff.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> He's got a point though. I like to pop in here now and then for a good look at the "gallery", but lately it has mostly been chatter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











I love this build more and more each time I see it


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> and the ghetto award goes tooooooooooooooo


HUH? How is that ghetto in any way?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this build more and more each time I see it


Thanks I appreciate that very much...I love your TJ07, it's nice to get a compliment from someone who does such good work.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Only thing bad about leaving them on air coolers is after a while they will heat up the room even with a window open.


You would still get the same room heating effect if the GPUs were on water. All that thermal energy has got to go _somewhere_. Water cooling just does a more efficient job of getting it out of the computer and into the room.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> and the ghetto award goes tooooooooooooooo


I don't see how it is ghetto. Lian li case has the cleanest tops of any case IMO. Assuming he is using countersunk screws for the radiator.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> He's got a point though. I like to pop in here now and then for a good look at the "gallery", but lately it has mostly been chatter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you have another 90° white rotary? Turning the pump 90° and have the tubing going straight up and down would look better IMO.

EDIT: Opps. Didn't realize I double posted. Why is there no delete?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Do you have another 90° white rotary? Turning the pump 90° and have the tubing going straight up and down would look better IMO.
> 
> EDIT: Opps. Didn't realize I double posted. Why is there no delete?


Agreed!! That would polish it up nicely...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Do you have another 90° white rotary? Turning the pump 90° and have the tubing going straight up and down would look better IMO.
> 
> EDIT: Opps. Didn't realize I double posted. Why is there no delete?


I think I've mentioned it before...but the reason the pump is oriented the way it currently sits is because I felt it looked better to have the wires coming off the back kinda hidden away going straight up behind the motherboard tray. I dunno...I felt like if the pump was turned, as you're suggesting, I would annoy me seeing the wires more...although I sleeved them, so it wouldn't have been horrible. But yes, I do have another 90 so it's a possibility.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ooooh! got an unexplained delivery today......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Lamptron!
> 
> Time for testings!


Nice! This wasn't to replace the dead one a while ago?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think I've mentioned it before...but the reason the pump is oriented the way it currently sits is because I felt it looked better to have the wires coming off the back kinda hidden away going straight up behind the motherboard tray. I dunno...I felt like if the pump was turned, as you're suggesting, I would annoy me seeing the wires more...although I sleeved them, so it wouldn't have been horrible. But yes, I do have another 90 so it's a possibility.


Pull the pump out then rotate the top. That way the wires are still at the back.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> You would still get the same room heating effect if the GPUs were on water. All that thermal energy has got to go _somewhere_. Water cooling just does a more efficient job of getting it out of the computer and into the room.


This ^

Except, the cards will not get as hot, so prly not as much heating effect


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Pull the pump out then rotate the top. That way the wires are still at the back.


I like it.

Voids the warranty...but at this point, after running for about a year with no issues, I think just rotating the top would not cause any issues.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I like it.
> 
> Voids the warranty...but at this point, after running for about a year with no issues, I think just rotating the top would not cause any issues.


I don't think opening the pump voids warranty w/ Swiftech. Using any other pump top besides their own is what voids warranty AFAIK.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't think opening the pump voids warranty w/ Swiftech. Using any other pump top besides their own is what voids warranty AFAIK.


IIRC...and I can't really see it right now because it's at the back of the pump...there's a little sticker, that goes from the top to the bottom, that says if removed warranty voided. But to be technical, as long as the sticker isn't broken in half while removing the stock top, no worries.

EDIT: Stuck my phone back there to get a photo


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> This is the card I plan to get 2 of both with XSPC Razor. see link below
> 
> *http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130945*
> 
> Will 2 of above cards in SLI work with water block below? How does one install a Waterblock?
> 
> *http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20925/ex-blc-1506/XSPC_Razor_GTX_770_Full_Coverage_VGA_Block_-_Reference_Design.html?tl=g30c311s2023&id=j8MGHiid#blank*


According to a thread in the EVGA forums
you should be able to use refrence 770 blocks however, you might need a Titan backplate to cool the memory on the back of the card as the standard plate won't fit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> IIRC...and I can't really see it right now because it's at the back of the pump...there's a little sticker, that goes from the top to the bottom, that says if removed warranty voided. But to be technical, as long as the sticker isn't broken in half while removing the stock top, no worries.
> 
> EDIT: Stuck my phone back there to get a photo


I can confirm that this is correct. If you take apart the pump this will void your warranty on it. However, since you're letting me know that all you're doing is rotating the top, I think we can accommodate that. The real issue is with using aftermarket pump tops that we can't ensure are compatible and use o-rings that won't otherwise leak.


----------



## Ishinomori

And you've just alert Swiftech to that fact...


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can confirm that this is correct. If you take apart the pump this will void your warranty on it. However, since you're letting me know that all you're doing is rotating the top, I think we can accommodate that. The real issue is with using aftermarket pump tops that we can't ensure are compatible and use o-rings that won't otherwise leak.


Glad to hear this as well for next months changes to my rig...


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did you take off the filters? Its mesh and can resist airflow. Since I keep my fans at 5v and I have a few rads it really doesn't affect temps.


When I went to remove the filter I noticed the fans were not spinning. When I checked the fan curb on my mobo was set too aggressive and the fans were not spinning at all until the CPU temps hit 60C. Some quick tweaking and removing the vent panel opposite to my AX480 and problem solved. Coolant is idling at 19c and on load it is hovering in the mid 20's.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> When I went to remove the filter I noticed the fans were not spinning. When I checked the fan curb on my mobo was set too aggressive and the fans were not spinning at all until the CPU temps hit 60C. Some quick tweaking and removing the vent panel opposite to my AX480 and problem solved. Coolant is idling at 19c and on load it is hovering in the mid 20's.


Awesome


----------



## Stickeelion

well I finished my first ever water cooled rig after months of planning.

I am changing the coolant to Pastel White as soon as I can as I don't like how my red turned out (I wanted the reservoir to stand out more) and I really wanted to sleeve my cables but I couldn't afford it


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> well I finished my first ever water cooled rig after months of planning.
> 
> I am changing the coolant to Pastel White as soon as I can as I don't like how my red turned out (I wanted the reservoir to stand out more) and I really wanted to sleeve my cables but I couldn't afford it


I think that coolant and the rig looks amazing! For a first WC build that really does look good.


----------



## Stickeelion

Really? It looks too brown and not vibrant enough and you can hardly see the reservoir which I really wanted to stand out, I am going to be changing to mayhems pastel white which I think will look better.

I probably also change the fan rings to white then the only red thing left will be the RAM sticks which won't be too bad for a White/black/red theme IMO

here is a closer pic for you


----------



## wermad

Looks like coca cola


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Really? It looks too brown and not vibrant enough and you can hardly see the reservoir which I really wanted to stand out, I am going to be changing to mayhems pastel white which I think will look better.
> 
> I probably also change the fan rings to white then the only red thing left will be the RAM sticks which won't be too bad for a White/black/red theme IMO
> 
> here is a closer pic for you


Yeah, that does look brown. Have you tried adding more dye? That's what I had to do to get it to look more like blood.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like coca cola


haha true, also for some reason what you said just seems to sit well with your avatar

and BRAMSLI1 yes I've added like 3x times the recommended amount (bit by bit though) it looks ok in more yellow light like the light from the sun or my light fixture but the LED's in the case are pure white.

This is why I'm thinking pastel white will be miles better


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> well I finished my first ever water cooled rig after months of planning.
> 
> I am changing the coolant to Pastel White as soon as I can as I don't like how my red turned out (I wanted the reservoir to stand out more) and I really wanted to sleeve my cables but I couldn't afford it


Just a thought you might want to drill a hole through your cabinet to put the cables


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> haha true, also for some reason what you said just seems to sit well with your avatar
> 
> and BRAMSLI1 yes I've added like 3x times the recommended amount (bit by bit though) it looks ok in more yellow light like the light from the sun or my light fixture but the LED's in the case are pure white.
> 
> This is why I'm thinking pastel white will be miles better


What dye are you uing? Are you adding dye directly to loop? If so, how long did you wait before taking the pic?


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Just a thought you might want to drill a hole through your cabinet to put the cables


I wanted to but I can't as it's a college dorm room

I'm using Mayhems Deep red dye with clear X1 coolant, I added the dye straight into the reservoir after it was filled, after each time I added some it only took a few minutes to disperse, that picture is 3 days after I got it running


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I wanted to but I can't as it's a college dorm room
> 
> I'm using Mayhems Deep red dye with clear X1 coolant, I added the dye straight into the reservoir after it was filled, after each time I added some it only took a few minutes to disperse, that picture is 3 days after I got it running


Let Mayhem know in the Mayhem's User Group or a PM...he may be able to help....definitely seems like it is not as red as it normally be....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Let Mayhem know in the Mayhem's User Group or a PM...he may be able to help....definitely seems like it is not as red as it normally be....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club


ahh yes I already talked to mayhems, he offered some dye to fix it, then I told him not to worry as I'll get some pastel white. But then he offered me free pastel white coolant









That guy is amazing


----------



## fnyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> gotta love the black and red, especially on that SEXY ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO!!!! or is it the EXTREME?? Doesnt matter to me +INFINITY


Just as you know it that is the amd bord

Not one of the intel one's ^^


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> haha true, also for some reason what you said just seems to sit well with your avatar
> 
> and BRAMSLI1 yes I've added like 3x times the recommended amount (bit by bit though) it looks ok in more yellow light like the light from the sun or my light fixture but the LED's in the case are pure white.
> 
> This is why I'm thinking pastel white will be miles better


Lol.










Going pastel, waiting on stuff to arrive soon. Decided on yellow w/ some Primochill Advance. White would look sweet in your build


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> ahh yes I already talked to mayhems, he offered some dye to fix it, then I told him not to worry as I'll get some pastel white. But then he offered me free pastel white coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That guy is amazing


Yep! He will take care of his customers


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Just as you know it that is the amd bord
> 
> Not one of the intel one's ^^


Yes, it is the AMD3+ socket...

It is actually the Crosshair V Formula-Z not the Maximus


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey EK, any spoilers of the asus z87 rog board waterblocks? if not, how about a status update on their arrival at resellers


Check our Facebook page, I'm not allowed to post pictures here anymore. The Gene, Hero, and Extreme all have prototypes. Formula and Impact are on their way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like coca cola


This. Yummm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

No pics D? Why is that?

Bundy puts up sponsored pics all the time....

Send any future pics to me and I will post them for you.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> You would still get the same room heating effect if the GPUs were on water. All that thermal energy has got to go _somewhere_. Water cooling just does a more efficient job of getting it out of the computer and into the room.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This ^
> 
> Except, the cards will not get as hot, so prly not as much heating effect


Yeah, don't think it would be quite as bad with the heat being dispersed by rads rather than straight out from the card. I'm now thinking whether I should drown them now or wait until my next build as I'm just gonna use the same cards


----------



## protzman

Quick question; I have the mcp35x2 and was jw if a d5 would be quieter? Can anyone comment on this?


----------



## derickwm

In my experience the D5 is quieter than the MCP35X2


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quick question; I have the mcp35x2 and was jw if a d5 would be quieter? Can anyone comment on this?


Personally I found my D5 was quieter than my single MCP35X....at 100%. But I love the PWM on my MCP35X and it idles at 34%, super quiet, and with the curve I'm using, even under full load never goes above 50%. Although I'm still kind of torn myself, thinking about going back to a D5 with PWM...heck they're both great pumps IMO.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Yeah, don't think it would be quite as bad with the heat being dispersed by rads rather than straight out from the card. I'm now thinking whether I should drown them now or wait until my next build as I'm just gonna use the same cards


yes you are infact dispersing more heat as you are keeping the chip cooler so more heat must be dissipated,


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Quick question; I have the mcp35x2 and was jw if a d5 would be quieter? Can anyone comment on this?


I have a single MCP35X and it's really inaudible at anything under 2000 RPMs. It only starts vibrating the case audibly after 2500 RPMs.

The MCP35X2 shouldn't need to run at anything above 2000 RPMs, so fix that and enjoy your pump. If it's still loud revise your decoupling method.


----------



## chaonoy

Rookie
V for Vendetta PC


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> well I finished my first ever water cooled rig after months of planning.
> 
> I am changing the coolant to Pastel White as soon as I can as I don't like how my red turned out (I wanted the reservoir to stand out more) and I really wanted to sleeve my cables but I couldn't afford it


I was thinking rum and coke, but nonetheless.........
I certainly agree that the Pastel White will look great. It will really make the loop and the tube res. stand out.
That is an outstanding first water cooled build.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaonoy*
> 
> Rookie
> V for Vendetta PC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is awesome. End of story.


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaonoy*
> 
> Rookie
> V for Vendetta PC


looking good you cross a PC and a ROV


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Check our Facebook page, I'm not allowed to post pictures here anymore. The Gene, Hero, and Extreme all have prototypes. Formula and Impact are on their way.


What? Why? - that's ridiculous


----------



## derickwm

It's "advertising".


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I was thinking rum and coke, but nonetheless.........
> I certainly agree that the Pastel White will look great. It will really make the loop and the tube res. stand out.
> That is an outstanding first water cooled build.


haha yes, I planned this for about 3 months
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaonoy*
> 
> Rookie
> V for Vendetta PC


o.0 that's godlike, Well gentleman, It looks my time has come, I must stand down and hand over the reign of this thread
















... also dust must be a huge issue with that open case


----------



## islandgam3r

So guys, you all have been really helping out as far as decisions for watercooling kits etc. I was doing some more browsing and i came across the *Aphacool NexXxoS Monsta Quad 120mm Radiator* and the *Swiftech MCR420 "Quiet Power" Quad 120mm Radiator*. So my question is, if i am OCing my 4770K to between 4.5 - 5GHZ considering I get a robust chip batch, tweaking my superclocked evga acx 770s to higher than their factory OC level, how do they fair against RX or AX360 XSPC, an do u guys recommend quad rad vs triple rad push/pull?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's "advertising".


Good lord. I think at this stage you're presence here should be considered far more constructive than plain advertising, considering you participate in the conversation. Not to mention you ask for feedback on the EK product instead of just "advertising" it. I think that's a pretty good community service.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's "advertising".


Hmm, is a product release pic an advertisement....or.....a public service announcement....

I vote on a PSA so we can have more shiny pics of things we want in here


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaonoy*
> 
> Rookie
> V for Vendetta PC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wowie! love that!


----------



## cyphon

Is there a performance difference in the EK copper blocks and the nickel plated ones? Or is it roughly the same performance and just a looks preference?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Is there a performance difference in the EK copper blocks and the nickel plated ones? Or is it roughly the same performance and just a looks preference?


I'd say no there may be one but its probably extremely negligible to the point where its in margin of error territory.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaonoy*
> 
> Rookie
> V for Vendetta PC


Nice!. And for the ultimate test, sink in underwater. Back there, plenty of water for test.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I'd say no there may be one but its probably extremely negligible to the point where its in margin of error territory.


This is what I thought. Appreciate it.

The nickle does look pretty sick tho


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> I was looking at getting Raystorm 750 AX360 kit or RX360. It's my first liquid cooled rig, and everyone recommended those two to be the best kits esp for beginners. I will be cooling my 4770K, my 2 EVGA GTX 4GB ACX Superclocked 770s in SLI mainly, but I saw some rigs with RAM water blocks, are they good? Are they necessary to have maximum performance/cooling temps? Please help me out here ANYONE. I want this rig to b flawless and High End, cuz I do plan on OC'ing CPU and Vid card, benchmarking and alot of gaming. Also wanted to know *what are you guys recommended tubing diameters? which size is sturdy, but also flexible enough for tight bends?* see list below.
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions or assistance will be appreciated.






I like 12mm tubing; anything larger is obscene, aesthetically, to me.


----------



## cyphon

I use 1/2" ID 3/4" OD. It gets good flow as it is not very restrictive. Only problem is that sometimes the fittings are too large for some blocks and you cannot put two on without some sort of adaptor


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> well I finished my first ever water cooled rig after months of planning.
> 
> I am changing the coolant to Pastel White as soon as I can as I don't like how my red turned out (I wanted the reservoir to stand out more) and I really wanted to sleeve my cables but I couldn't afford it






Maybe if you hadn't gotten that Bitspower mod kit for your pump, you could have gotten the sleeving


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I use 1/2" ID 3/4" OD. It gets good flow as it is not very restrictive. Only problem is that sometimes the fittings are too large for some blocks and you cannot put two on without some sort of adaptor


There is no measurable difference in flow rate between 3/8" and 1/2" tubing. You could even drop to 1/4" tubing w/ no noticeable impact on flow rate.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaonoy*
> 
> Rookie
> V for Vendetta PC


Dooood!! Make that thing float, and you got my vote!!!









Awesome build!!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> 
> Maybe if you hadn't gotten that Bitspower mod kit for your pump, you could have gotten the sleeving


^ This ^

But that kit is soooo preeeetttyy... and preeecciooouussss.... my... prec... (sorry)


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaonoy*
> 
> Rookie
> V for Vendetta PC


Reminds me of the underwater flange assembly scene from Men of Honor. Awesome.


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yes, it is the AMD3+ socket...
> 
> It is actually the Crosshair V Formula-Z not the Maximus


As is said doesnt matter wat platform or mobo, ASUS ROG b and r color scheme is AWESOME!!!!!


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> So guys, you all have been really helping out as far as decisions for watercooling kits etc. I was doing some more browsing and i came across the *Aphacool NexXxoS Monsta Quad 120mm Radiator* and the *Swiftech MCR420 "Quiet Power" Quad 120mm Radiator*. So my question is, if i am OCing my 4770K to between 4.5 - 5GHZ considering I get a robust chip batch, tweaking my superclocked evga acx 770s to higher than their factory OC level, how do they fair against RX or AX360 XSPC, an do u guys recommend quad rad vs triple rad push/pull?


Any thoughts on this question guys???


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> As is said doesnt matter wat platform or mobo, ASUS ROG b and r color scheme is AWESOME!!!!!


Hahahah, this is true


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's "advertising".
> 
> 
> 
> Good lord. I think at this stage you're presence here should be considered far more constructive than plain advertising, considering you participate in the conversation. Not to mention you ask for feedback on the EK product instead of just "advertising" it. I think that's a pretty good community service.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's "advertising".
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, is a product release pic an advertisement....or.....a public service announcement....
> 
> I vote on a PSA so we can have more shiny pics of things we want in here
Click to expand...

Yeah that was my thought process on it, but oh well I guess. Trying to work with upper management on it.

On a positive side of things, my sponsored STH10 Pedestal is ready to be shipped! It'll be coming here to Slovenia to build a beefy chiller in it


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> 
> Maybe if you hadn't gotten that Bitspower mod kit for your pump, you could have gotten the sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ This ^
> 
> But that kit is soooo preeeetttyy... and preeecciooouussss.... my... prec... (sorry)
Click to expand...

True True but I had decided on getting a mod kit from the beginning, I couldn;t stand the look of the pumps. in fact there are 2 pumps there, those with the dual top and housings cost me around $350 all up


----------



## kcuestag

So I'm probably going to replace my XSPC Dual Bay reservoir for an EK D5 X-RES CSQ Acetal, so I will be forced to use the GPU's as the first part of the loop to keep it all clean (I'm used to actually having the CPU very first thing on the loop after the first big rad).

Current order: RES/PUMP - TOP RAD - CPU - REAR 120 RAD - GPUs - BOTTOM 240 rad - back to RES/PUMP


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The res/pump would go placed next to the drive cage between GPU's and the cage, most likely screwed into the hdd cage.

And the planned future order: RES/PUMP - BOTTOM 240 rad - GPUs - REAR 120 RAD - CPU - TOP 420 RAD - Back to RES/PUMP (from behind motherboard panel, to keep it all clean, since I can't use the top of this reservoir as an in or outlet, just as fillport).

Do you guys think my overall CPU and GPU temperatures will stay the same even if I change the loop order? That's my only doubt right now, I don't want hotter CPU temperatures.









It will be interesting to see how I'll route the tubing from the top radiator to the pump/res.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Loop order will have no impact Kcue,you know that already?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaonoy*
> 
> Rookie
> V for Vendetta PC












Impressive!!!!!!!1


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> It will be interesting to see how I'll route the tubing from the top radiator to the pump/res.


Just run a tube from the top rad to one of the two inlets of the X-RES (one on each side) using a 90 degree rotary adapter on the inlet and possibly a 45 on the top rad.

Other way around would be connecting the top rad to the filling port on top of the X-RES but that would complicate loop filling and you would need to somehow hook a piece of tube internally on that port to make the flow silent.

I would go with option A.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Just run a tube from the top rad to one of the two inlets of the X-RES (one on each side) using a 90 degree rotary adapter on the inlet and possibly a 45 on the top rad.
> 
> Other way around would be connecting the top rad to the filling port on top of the X-RES but that would complicate loop filling and you would need to somehow hook a piece of tube internally on that port to make the flow silent.
> 
> I would go with option A.


Yeah, option A seems the better option.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Not sure if this has been done before or not.

My water loop isn't a traditional water loop. With that said, when I need to drain and refill it, I usually get a mouth full of water because it's difficult to get my pump primed enough to run with gravity only. After looking though some DIY power bleeder setups to change my brake fluid, I thought it would be perfect for the cooling loop in my PC.

Anyway here it is.

Material used:
Smallest pressure sprayer @ lowes
6" hose
female g1/4 coupling (I had some bulk head adapters laying around)
2 barbs (also had laying around)
Clamps (Probably not necessary)

Originally I was going to cut off the nozzle end and just throw on one of my barbs at the end of the sprayer hose, but I realized that I could attach my bulkhead adapter to the end of the nozzle. It's obviously not g1/4, but close enough to allow me to thread it nice and snug. I'm probably not using more than 3-5 PSI, so it works fine.

I just hooked it up to my drain, opened my fill port, pumped the handle 4 or 5 times and slowly pressed down. Once the reservoir filled up, I ran the pump until it hit an air pocket. Shut it down and did it again until the pump could run freely.

I only have my reservoir and both rads in my loop now, but I don't see the water blocks keeping this from working in the future.

Also helped in draining - opened the drain and used the sprayer to blow air through the system.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

That's awesome. Make sure and check your blocks psi ratings... I could swear I've seen some lower than 5 psi...







Maybe it was bars not psi?








Either way I dig it


----------



## WebsterXC

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaonoy*
> 
> Rookie
> V for Vendetta PC





Is this a custom case?


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> That's awesome. Make sure and check your blocks psi ratings... I could swear I've seen some lower than 5 psi...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it was bars not psi?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either way I dig it


5 bar would be such an enormous pressure.

Anyone used Dremel 4000 and 3000 before, which is best for normal PC cutting stuff?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> 5 bar would be such an enormous pressure.
> 
> Anyone used Dremel 4000 and 3000 before, which is best for normal PC cutting stuff?


I've got the Dremel stylus and it takes some time but cuts thick 2-3mm sheet steel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Good lord. I think at this stage you're presence here should be considered far more constructive than plain advertising, considering you participate in the conversation. Not to mention you ask for feedback on the EK product instead of just "advertising" it. I think that's a pretty good community service.


They're good at shooting themselves in the foot sometimes.

Hopefully both parties can work it out.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> 5 bar would be such an enormous pressure.
> 
> Anyone used Dremel 4000 and 3000 before, which is best for normal PC cutting stuff?


MNPCTech swears by the Dremel 300 which I also have used and found it pretty good for the job. It all depends on your flywheels.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> I've got the Dremel stylus and it takes some time but cuts thick 2-3mm sheet steel.


Alright, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> MNPCTech swears by the Dremel 300 which I also have used and found it pretty good for the job. It all depends on your flywheels.


Wait, when you're talking about flywheel, does it refer to the cutting blade or actually there's a flywheel in the dremel unit similar to those in cars.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Wait, when you're talking about flywheel, does it refer to the cutting blade or actually there's a flywheel in the dremel unit similar to those in cars.


The cutting wheel dude.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> The cutting wheel dude.


Whew! I thought this thing actually have a flywheel. Thanks.


----------



## Deano12345

I've got two months 'till I buy my WC, and this thread is 4500~ pages long. Challenge accepted !

I'm in need of some serious inspiration since theres just too much choice


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I've got two months 'till I buy my WC, and this thread is 4500~ pages long. Challenge accepted !
> 
> I'm in need of some serious inspiration since theres just too much choice


if you're looking for inspiration you found the right thread, totally worth reading the 45000+ posts, lots of information and some truly amazing builds


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Not sure if this has been done before or not.
> 
> My water loop isn't a traditional water loop. With that said, when I need to drain and refill it, I usually get a mouth full of water because it's difficult to get my pump primed enough to run with gravity only. After looking though some DIY power bleeder setups to change my brake fluid, I thought it would be perfect for the cooling loop in my PC.
> 
> Anyway here it is.
> 
> Material used:
> Smallest pressure sprayer @ lowes
> 6" hose
> female g1/4 coupling (I had some bulk head adapters laying around)
> 2 barbs (also had laying around)
> Clamps (Probably not necessary)
> 
> Originally I was going to cut off the nozzle end and just throw on one of my barbs at the end of the sprayer hose, but I realized that I could attach my bulkhead adapter to the end of the nozzle. It's obviously not g1/4, but close enough to allow me to thread it nice and snug. I'm probably not using more than 3-5 PSI, so it works fine.
> 
> I just hooked it up to my drain, opened my fill port, pumped the handle 4 or 5 times and slowly pressed down. Once the reservoir filled up, I ran the pump until it hit an air pocket. Shut it down and did it again until the pump could run freely.
> 
> I only have my reservoir and both rads in my loop now, but I don't see the water blocks keeping this from working in the future.
> 
> Also helped in draining - opened the drain and used the sprayer to blow air through the system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


Nice setup.

Being able to fill from the bottom up, especially if you have strategic vent points where air is prone to trap, makes it a relatively painless process with very little air that ultimately needs to be bled.

I built a similar air powered fill system for my Switch 810 build a couple years back, since I'm old and feeble and don't have the grunt to muscle it around to bleed it by physical manipulation.

Using a pump sprayer was a slick idea.

I used a modded water filter with a low pressure reg on the shop air supply and valves on the in and out sides.
The Schrader valve bleeds the supply container so I can refill it thru a G1/4 port without having to disassemble the setup.

Darlene


----------



## Stickeelion

guys I would greatly appreaciate some troubleshooting help.

I may have sprung a leak in my PC.


well if you see the pic there and have a look at it you might be able to help me find and work out how to fix this
I think it may possibly be the bottom radiator or a fitting down there or basically anything below the bottom GPU
I found drops on:
1) the side of the PSU (that faces the radiator)
2) the tube that runs along the bottom
3) the underside of the bottom GPU (only on the block so far so pretty lucky)
4) and on one of the USB2 headers along the bottom of the mobo

now the drops are quite small and fairly sparse so I think some pressure may have built up in the loop when the water got warm and caused it to spray like that, I inspected it to kingdom come and have not been able to find and source of the leak, I have cleaned it up and I've since been eyeballing it for a while (I'm using it right now) and haven't seen anything happen, I have loosened the cap on the res to allow it to equalise pressure at the moment in case that was the issue

I don't if I can just continue on and not bother about the leak in the long term or maybe a tube got a pinhole leak or the rad burst which may cause issues down the line (I know 100% I did not puncture it while assembling it)

is it even possible for pressure to build up enough to cause a leak like this?

also if it is of relevance the water level has gone down about 1/4 - 1/2" in the last few days, and it's only been operating a week so far with the res sealed almost the entire time


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> guys I would greatly appreaciate some troubleshooting help.
> 
> I may have sprung a leak in my PC.
> 
> 
> well if you see the pic there and have a look at it you might be able to help me find and work out how to fix this
> I think it may possibly be the bottom radiator or a fitting down there or basically anything below the bottom GPU
> I found drops on:
> 1) the side of the PSU (that faces the radiator)
> 2) the tube that runs along the bottom
> 3) the underside of the bottom GPU (only on the block so far so pretty lucky)
> 4) and on one of the USB2 headers along the bottom of the mobo
> 
> now the drops are quite small and fairly sparse so I think some pressure may have built up in the loop when the water got warm and caused it to spray like that, I inspected it to kingdom come and have not been able to find and source of the leak, I have cleaned it up and I've since been eyeballing it for a while (I'm using it right now) and haven't seen anything happen, I have loosened the cap on the res to allow it to equalise pressure at the moment in case that was the issue
> 
> I don't if I can just continue on and not bother about the leak in the long term or maybe a tube got a pinhole leak or the rad burst which may cause issues down the line (I know 100% I did not puncture it while assembling it)
> 
> is it even possible for pressure to build up enough to cause a leak like this?
> 
> also if it is of relevance the water level has gone down about 1/4 - 1/2" in the last few days, and it's only been operating a week so far with the res sealed almost the entire time


Put some paper towels down and keep an eye on it to see where the leak is. If you have dye then this is easier to spot of course. Preemptively you can go ahead and go around and try to tighten each fitting a little more. No tools, hand tighten only.

It is normal for the water in your res to go down after filling a loop. As your system bleeds air out, fluid takes the place of the air so the level goes down. I usually just fill it back up after it has run for a week or so.


----------



## sdcalihusker

I've updated my build.




Build log Here


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> I've updated my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log Here


Looking real good, I like the custom paint job.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> i may have sprung a leak


If its on the bottom of your GPU block check the block and the fittings on it. Have you ever taken it apart? If so make sure its all put back together right.


----------



## bundymania

New toys for old boys


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Put some paper towels down and keep an eye on it to see where the leak is. If you have dye then this is easier to spot of course. Preemptively you can go ahead and go around and try to tighten each fitting a little more. No tools, hand tighten only.
> 
> It is normal for the water in your res to go down after filling a loop. As your system bleeds air out, fluid takes the place of the air so the level goes down. I usually just fill it back up after it has run for a week or so.


I agree with this as air is blead out to the reservoir your levels will go down. I recently rebuilt my loop and I have had to top it off twice as the air bled out of the rads and such specially since the position of things in my setup do not allow for a lot of moving around to get the air out. If after a week or two you still see levels going down then you do have a leak somewhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> If its on the bottom of your GPU block check the block and the fittings on it. Have you ever taken it apart? If so make sure its all put back together right.


Since you did find drops the paper towel trick suggested by Animal would be your best friend specially since you have colored coolant, just make sure to use white paper towels so you can clearly see the color of the dye and do not have to guess if it is part of the pattern on the paper towel or if it is dye.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> 5 bar would be such an enormous pressure.
> 
> Anyone used Dremel 4000 and 3000 before, which is best for normal PC cutting stuff?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> MNPCTech swears by the Dremel 300 which I also have used and found it pretty good for the job. It all depends on your flywheels.


^^ This

I have the 3000 and it worked like a charm. I used it to mod my haf x so I could fit my monsta 140 in the front and so i could move my 360 forward so it wasn't pressing down on my memory. I am well happy with the result and the investment


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> ^^ This
> 
> I have the 3000 and it worked like a charm. I used it to mod my haf x so I could fit my monsta 140 in the front and so i could move my 360 forward so it wasn't pressing down on my memory. I am well happy with the result and the investment


Yeah, in my place, 3000's price is half of what 4000 priced. I don't think I need those fancy stuff (for 4000) since I'm doing hobby mod.


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## briddell

Could I just mount my MCP355 on its side instead of vertically? Working with a small space, and Petra's top does not help.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Could I just mount my MCP355 on its side instead of vertically? Working with a small space, and Petra's top does not help.


I _think_ it's going to be OK. Don't got any proof though so don't do it just yet.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Could I just mount my MCP355 on its side instead of vertically? Working with a small space, and Petra's top does not help.


What is wrong w/ Petra's top?


----------



## wermad

Cpu block (EK supremacy) came in









Is the tim that comes with the block any good? I have a bit of Ceramique left.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cpu block (EK supremacy) came in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the tim that comes with the block any good? I have a bit of Ceramique left.


Isn't it MX-4? I use it, good stuff.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Isn't it MX-4? I use it, good stuff.


Says "EK Gelid", ?


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Says "EK Gelid", ?


better use what they sent you or it might void the warrenty knowing EK.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> better use what they sent you or it might void the warrenty knowing EK.


Lol


----------



## Daredevil 720

If I ever decided I need a new copper base for my EK Supremacy would I be able to buy just that from EK?


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Says "EK Gelid", ?


i got the same tim with my ek kit
ive read somewhere that its gelid gc extreme


----------



## Daredevil 720

I think mine says Gelid GC Extreme on it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Says "EK Gelid", ?


Back when I bought my blocks, it was MX-4....but yea, that's the GC Extreme, I've used that before as well and thought it did alright.


----------



## wermad

Thanks guys


----------



## derickwm

It's solid TIM wermad :thumb:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's solid TIM wermad


I use GE,real good TIM...enough for me to drop my trusty MX2.

When are the black 12mm tube fittings coming D?


----------



## stickg1

My EK VGA Supremacy Black Acetal Nickel came with MX-2.


----------



## wermad

Thanks again guys, I dabbed some one the cpu and got the block on. I have say this is not an "easy" mount hardware/installation kit. I actually found the old mounting system much more friendly









So, my ppcs.com order came in. I ordered a retail roll of Advance clear and 4' piece of Advance clear as extra (not really needing two rolls). The 4' piece seems a bit softer then the Advance roll. I know from my green advance, it should be a little stiff. I'm suspecting ppcs.com has sent me old LRT clear









Gotta wait for the pastel to go in and in a few days I'll know, meh...


----------



## stickg1

I like PPCS, good service and fast shipping. Really close by too, I tend to get stuff in two days and typically I select the cheapest shipping possible.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I like PPCS, good service and fast shipping. Really close by too, I tend to get stuff in two days and typically I select the cheapest shipping possible.


i live a couple hours from them, for some reason i always get a delay in shipping even though its like...right there. It always take two days for them to deliver, because it takes one day for them to process a tiny shipment, that i usually place in the morning, and it doesnt get shipped out till the next day, its kind of ridiculous. I might just go pick up my next order instead.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i live a couple hours from them, for some reason i always get a delay in shipping even though its like...right there. It always take two days for them to deliver, because it takes one day for them to process a tiny shipment, that i usually place in the morning, and it doesnt get shipped out till the next day, its kind of ridiculous. I might just go pick up my next order instead.


The wonderful people at PPCS have been my saviours on more than one occasion. I'm on the coast, about 3 hours from them. I love that I can order on a Thursday afternoon, select Fed Ex Next Day (for around $9US) and have my package on my doorstep around noon on Saturday. I'm TOTALLY spoiled. I ordered a package of various items (including four 32oz bottles of PrimoChill) from them this past week. It was a fairly heavy box, but was still less than $10 for Next Day.


----------



## cyphon

I'm not that close and I usually get stuff from ppcs in 3-4 days from placing order.

Frozencpu is insanely fast and it usually takes 2 days from placing order.

Both cases are us priority. Ppcs usually takes a day to processwhere frozen cpu ships in like 10minutes from order lol.

I use both bout the same in terms of number of orders


----------



## bundymania

Let there be light - with build in RGB Leds





http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_1574x0z16.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_15688tbo6.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_1569o0yjb.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_1570bdzvx.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_15714elfx.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_1572pdaj4.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_1573aqbv1.jpg


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cpu block (EK supremacy) came in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the tim that comes with the block any good? I have a bit of Ceramique left.


Gelid GC is great stuff and easy to use. I use it on everything.


----------



## mxthunder

small update to my rig. replaced some of the chrome compression fittings with all black to go along with my all black theme, and setup the 580's in parallel instead of serial.
I also bought some UV green tubing that I will install over the weekend. what do you guys think, should I stick with the black tubing or go with green?

Does it look better before or after?

Before:






After:






Stage 2 to come with the green tubing.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Isn't it MX-4? I use it, good stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Says "EK Gelid", ?
Click to expand...

A bit late here but it's Gelid GC extreme and it is very good, I have used it on mine, it's a bit viscous and a little difficult to spread but great temps. I thought it was pretty good and I bought another large syringe of it too


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> small update to my rig. replaced some of the chrome compression fittings with all black to go along with my all black theme, and setup the 580's in parallel instead of serial.
> I also bought some UV green tubing that I will install over the weekend. what do you guys think, should I stick with the black tubing or go with green?
> 
> Does it look better before or after?
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stage 2 to come with the green tubing.


The main reason I ditched 1/2x3/4 compression fittings is the clearance issues. 3/8x5/8 has been great so far









Rig does look awesome







. Post in the Obsidian club too


----------



## Heff04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> well I finished my first ever water cooled rig after months of planning.
> 
> I am changing the coolant to Pastel White as soon as I can as I don't like how my red turned out (I wanted the reservoir to stand out more) and I really wanted to sleeve my cables but I couldn't afford it


The contrast of the pastel white, red and black will look awesome my friend! Can't wait to see it


----------



## Solonowarion

Had the acrylic done for months. Finally got around to filing the loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Had the acrylic done for months. Finally got around to filing the loop.


Sweet! I gave up on mind since my loop was just overtly complex and I had limited space. Which fittings are you using btw?


----------



## TampaChaz

Finally got the PINK coolant in my loop adjusted to RED.....I was too embarrassed to post pics of it pink.....it looked sickly anywhere but the reservoirs, and the bottle it came in LOL.


----------



## sdcalihusker

TampaChaz, I have the same type EK bridge. Are you using LEDs in them? I thought about using some super bright white LEDs in mine, and then using a lot of red LEDs for the internal lighting.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Had the acrylic done for months. Finally got around to filing the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice looking, about to convert to acrylic in my current build, which will be practice for my 8 titan double build coming soon


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet! I gave up on mind since my loop was just overtly complex and I had limited space. Which fittings are you using btw?


Thanks. These are the phobya push fittings from. PPC. Highly recommend them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> very nice looking, about to convert to acrylic in my current build, which will be practice for my 8 titan double build coming soon


Thanks. A lot of trial and error but worth it.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Finally got the PINK coolant in my loop adjusted to RED.....I was too embarrassed to post pics of it pink.....it looked sickly anywhere but the reservoirs, and the bottle it came in LOL.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


now THAT is an amazing red! well done, nice rig


----------



## wermad

Pastel, yummy:



Still leak testing.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pastel, yummy:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still leak testing.


Interesting colour combo going on there









The yellow pastel does look sweet


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Had the acrylic done for months. Finally got around to filing the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pastel, yummy:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still leak testing.


Love the choice of yellow, have always wanted a yellow loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Interesting colour combo going on there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The yellow pastel does look sweet


I've wanted yellow for a while and decided on pastel. Yellow and green are a good combo. Green is still more abundant since I have green led fans and the green chrome film on the rads. Was gonna do mint green but there's enough 900D out there with green already









edit: I should pester Derick to get a plexi clean bridge







.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've wanted yellow for a while and decided on pastel. Yellow and green are a good combo. Green is still more abundant since I have green led fans and the green chrome film on the rads. Was gonna do mint green but there's enough 900D out there with green already


It blends really well with the green color scheme, plus it's a pleasant shade of yellow to look at, imo.
I think you'll be pleased with Mayhems pastel as a coolant as well.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've wanted yellow for a while and decided on pastel. Yellow and green are a good combo. Green is still more abundant since I have green led fans and the green chrome film on the rads. Was gonna do mint green but there's enough 900D out there with green already


Looking at it again, the green and yellow is good. I think its the bright blue Ram that erks me


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Looking at it again, the green and yellow is good. I think its the bright blue Ram that erks me


'
Everyone hates the ram, lol. With today's prices, I'm not moving. I wanted some Patriot Viper "Jungle" green ones but they're elusive. Might pick up some Geil or AData yellow sticks if ram comes down again in prices.


----------



## Sunreeper

or just paint them


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Had the acrylic done for months. Finally got around to filing the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


More, where can I see more


----------



## mbondPDX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pastel, yummy:
> 
> 
> 
> Still leak testing.


All that's missing is an Oregon logo.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pastel, yummy:
> 
> 
> 
> Still leak testing.


nice, I didn;t realise that was another 900D at first.









it looks like you've got an air pocket in your CPU block at the top of it. I hope that isn't happening to mine, I can't tell as I have an acetal top on mine


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> All that's missing is an Oregon logo.


Go ducks! Lol









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> nice, I didn;t realise that was another 900D at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it looks like you've got an air pocket in your CPU block at the top of it. I hope that isn't happening to mine, I can't tell as I have an acetal top on mine


Lol, damn, didn't see sig-rig link or specs (







).

Yup, big o' bubble up there. It'll eventually work its way it in the next few days.

One more shot of pastel. Mmmmmmmmmm, gold fish crackers........


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Swiftech MCR420-XP eXtreme Performance Quad 120mm Slim Radiator - (MCR420-XP

or

Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Quad 120mm Radiator

I need 2 radiators for my 900D, well I really only need one for both cards and cpu. But I wanna use the space. So which of these two will perform better with low rpm fans?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Swiftech MCR420-XP eXtreme Performance Quad 120mm Slim Radiator - (MCR420-XP
> 
> or
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Quad 120mm Radiator
> 
> I need 2 radiators for my 900D, well I really only need one for both cards and cpu. But I wanna use the space. So which of these two will perform better with low rpm fans?


UT60s


----------



## sebar

Hi guys, I wanted to share this awesome custom made acrylic reservoir that I made today and will be using in my 350D build. I will leak test it tomorrow to be sure it is water tight.


----------



## mbondPDX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to share this awesome custom made acrylic reservoir that I made today and will be using in my 350D build. I will leak test it tomorrow to be sure it is water tight.


That looks really good. Looking forward to seeing pictures of the build when it's done.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to share this awesome custom made acrylic reservoir that I made today and will be using in my 350D build. I will leak test it tomorrow to be sure it is water tight.


Nice diy


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to share this awesome custom made acrylic reservoir that I made today and will be using in my 350D build. I will leak test it tomorrow to be sure it is water tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How'd you make that! Build log?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> How'd you make that! Build log?


No build log, just had the idea because space is limited in the 350D with a 280 XT45 in the roof and a 280 UT60 in the front. If I do another I will post a video or a picture log.


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to share this awesome custom made acrylic reservoir that I made today and will be using in my 350D build. I will leak test it tomorrow to be sure it is water tight.


this has got to be the most innovative watercooling part OF THE YEAR

man ... OCN community never ceases to amaze me , i love this forum


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> this has got to be the most innovative watercooling part OF THE YEAR
> 
> man ... OCN community never ceases to amaze me , i love this forum


There are brackets to install a tube res or a pump-res combo reservoir on any 120mm fan opening


----------



## soulreaper05

Planning some upgrades to my sig rig, I recently acquired two more GTX 680's to go quad sli with the 680s already installed, I am going red tubing this time with mayhems x1 oil black coolant ( non UV). I am adding an EK nickel + plexi full board block and cpu block. I was planning on drilling small holes in the back edge of my gpu blocks to install red leds to shine through the plexi, I was wondering if anyone has done this or seen it done before? I want to install lights in my cpu block and mosfet block as well. I just wondered if this would be possible? If it is possible, i want to power the leds with the fan power connector on the cards themselves does anyone know the voltage of that connector?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> '
> Everyone hates the ram, lol. With today's prices, I'm not moving. I wanted some Patriot Viper "Jungle" green ones but they're elusive. Might pick up some Geil or AData yellow sticks if ram comes down again in prices.


You could replace the heat spreaders with EK Monarch DIMM Modules. They can be run without a waterblock and turn any stick of RAM into something aesthetically pleasing.

I ran mine like that for a while until I got my block for them. I'll never use RAM without the EK DIMM Modules again, love the look of them and makes buying RAM easy, get the best performing DIMMs for the price no matter how horrible looking.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to share this awesome custom made acrylic reservoir that I made today and will be using in my 350D build. I will leak test it tomorrow to be sure it is water tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's very interesting.

Which are the in and out ports and have you thought about what you'll do if you get bubbles, cycloning, or loss of flow or anything?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Interesting colour combo going on there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The yellow pastel does look sweet
> 
> 
> 
> I've wanted yellow for a while and decided on pastel. Yellow and green are an *awesome* combo. Green is still more abundant since I have green led fans and the green chrome film on the rads. Was gonna do mint green but there's enough 900D out there with green already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I should pester Derick to get a plexi clean bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Fixed.

MilSpec drew a lot of attention just for the colours alone.




It is an excellent contrast colour.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to share this awesome custom made acrylic reservoir that I made today and will be using in my 350D build. I will leak test it tomorrow to be sure it is water tight.


Very nice SEBAR.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> That's very interesting.
> 
> Which are the in and out ports and have you thought about what you'll do if you get bubbles, cycloning, or loss of flow or anything?


Naturally the bottom will be the outlet, the center will be inlet, and the top is the fill port. I will have to see how it performs after I am finished leak checking. I considered adding some baffles but decided against it to achieve a cleaner look. If needed I can add them in the next build,


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pastel, yummy:
> 
> 
> 
> Still leak testing.


I dig the clear tubing - yellow pastel combo.

The clear tubing gives it a nice cell shaded look while the yellow is just awesome.







Reminds me of Borderlands.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Naturally the bottom will be the outlet, the center will be inlet, and the top is the fill port. I will have to see how it performs after I am finished leak checking. I considered adding some baffles but decided against it to achieve a cleaner look. If needed I can add them in the next build,


I would definitely be interested in a reservoir like that...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pastel, yummy:
> 
> 
> 
> Still leak testing.


Supremacy looks a little thirsty still 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Interesting colour combo going on there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The yellow pastel does look sweet
> 
> 
> 
> I've wanted yellow for a while and decided on pastel. Yellow and green are a good combo. Green is still more abundant since I have green led fans and the green chrome film on the rads. Was gonna do mint green but there's enough 900D out there with green already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I should pester Derick to get a plexi clean bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

It's in the works my friend. Plexi is unfortunately harder to work with than Acetal and that is the only thing stopping us from bringing it to market currently. It is in the works though 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> All that's missing is an Oregon logo.
> 
> 
> 
> Go ducks! Lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> nice, I didn;t realise that was another 900D at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it looks like you've got an air pocket in your CPU block at the top of it. I hope that isn't happening to mine, I can't tell as I have an acetal top on mine
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Lol, damn, didn't see sig-rig link or specs (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Yup, big o' bubble up there. It'll eventually work its way it in the next few days.
> 
> One more shot of pastel. Mmmmmmmmmm, gold fish crackers........
Click to expand...

Hehe goldfish.


----------



## bomberjun

As per request

























EDIT: Added more pictures.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*


I am envious that you managed to fit all that in a Cosmos II


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*


More pics!


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> As per request
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Added more pictures.






Looks great.

Only thing I would do different is pastel red to match the case.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> As per request
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Added more pictures.


Awesome build. The paint job looks really clean too.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There are brackets to install a tube res or a pump-res combo reservoir on any 120mm fan opening


Rain on peoples parade much


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> TampaChaz, I have the same type EK bridge. Are you using LEDs in them? I thought about using some super bright white LEDs in mine, and then using a lot of red LEDs for the internal lighting.


I am using two red 3mm leds in the side of the bridge. I also buffed the frosted texture off so the bridge is clear. You may want to consider doing that if you haven't already. White LEDs inside that frosted bridge will glow like a triangular shaped light bulb!








Make sure you post some pics.....I like Rig porn!


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> now THAT is an amazing red! well done, nice rig


Thank you thank you. I'm going to run this coolant for a while and when it's time for a cleaning, I'm thinking of trying pastel red. HA HA! I have to laugh at myself. Just finished the build and already thinking about the next changes to this one and what I want to do for the scratch build.........I think it's time to seek a therapist LOL


----------



## Egami

Some sexy and rather hard tubing found its way on my table...



It left me wondering if any of you had experience coupling Bitspower's matt black C47 multi-link adapters with EK's 90' angle fittings - and how close their blacks are to each other a.k.a could I get away mixing the two?


----------



## oelkanne

hehe...just to show how good this looks













soooo shiny


----------



## Darylrese

Here's mine





Looking to add my GTX 670's into the loop soon.


----------



## briddell

Love the sleeving!


----------



## sebar

I have started leak checking the reservoir. So far everything is looking good. I will let it sit for a while and see if any leaks show up then I will add it to a loop to see how it performs.


----------



## briddell

Are those rubber grommets threaded, or are they a softer rubber?


----------



## freitz

Added some things to my rig, here is a quick snap shot. For more pictures please see my build log. (Link in Sig)


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Are those rubber grommets threaded, or are they a softer rubber?


The grommets are soft neoprene rubber.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

That thing could be posted in the top as well... Pretty neat!


----------



## khemist

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/5r98.jpg/

I wanted to try an external rad setup for ages so now is the time.

AX480 rad and stand + 4x Akasa Piranha fans.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> As per request
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Added more pictures.


Do you have a build log? Is the external case parts painted or what? So many questions









Jeffinslaw


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Do you have a build log? Is the external case parts painted or what? So many questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Im sorry, I dont have any buildlogs in my cosmos 2 build which I regret because building was in a fast pace(2weeks before rigshow). Its also the reason I lost the MOTM July.









Those are just some of the photos I took when I was building this.

Yes external parts are painted separately using anzhal car paint(base to top) and I buffed them(3stages). That was the easy part, modding the cosmos II to accommodate the radiator, pump, routing of my tubing and passthrough fittings took a lot of time , cuts & bruises and some sleepless nights just to fit perfectly.

You can message me your questions and I'll try to answer them.









@all thanks for the kind words. Appreciated.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Im sorry, I dont have any buildlogs in my cosmos 2 build which I regret because building was in a fast pace(2weeks before rigshow). Its also the reason I lost the MOTM July.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are just some of the photos I took when I was building this.
> 
> Yes external parts are painted separately using anzhal car paint(base to top) and I buffed them(3stages). That was the easy part, modding the cosmos II to accommodate the radiator, pump, routing of my tubing and passthrough fittings took a lot of time , cuts & bruises and some sleepless nights just to fit perfectly.
> 
> You can message me your questions and I'll try to answer them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @all thanks for the kind words. Appreciated.


Thanks! PM coming your way!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Finally got the PINK coolant in my loop adjusted to RED.....I was too embarrassed to post pics of it pink.....it looked sickly anywhere but the reservoirs, and the bottle it came in LOL.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that looks sharp. well done.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've wanted yellow for a while and decided on pastel. Yellow and green are a good combo. Green is still more abundant since I have green led fans and the green chrome film on the rads. Was gonna do mint green but there's enough 900D out there with green already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I should pester Derick to get a plexi clean bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


*cough* new ram *cough*.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to share this awesome custom made acrylic reservoir that I made today and will be using in my 350D build. I will leak test it tomorrow to be sure it is water tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1262.photobucket.com/user/sebar1/media/IMG_4232_zps6d724695.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


great idea. if you can't find one that works for you, build your own. great job.


----------



## mbondPDX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Im sorry, I dont have any buildlogs in my cosmos 2 build which I regret because building was in a fast pace(2weeks before rigshow). Its also the reason I lost the MOTM July.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are just some of the photos I took when I was building this.
> 
> Yes external parts are painted separately using anzhal car paint(base to top) and I buffed them(3stages). That was the easy part, modding the cosmos II to accommodate the radiator, pump, routing of my tubing and passthrough fittings took a lot of time , cuts & bruises and some sleepless nights just to fit perfectly.
> 
> You can message me your questions and I'll try to answer them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @all thanks for the kind words. Appreciated.


I was a fan of your 800d build and this one is no slouch either. Excellent work.


----------



## briddell

Never got a definitive answer; can I mount my MCP355 on its side? Not used to these impeller-based pumps!


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/5r98.jpg/
> 
> I wanted to try an external rad setup for ages so now is the time.
> 
> AX480 rad and stand + 4x Akasa Piranha fans.


Must.. resist.. going.. external!!

Once you go external you have unlimited space for rads and your wallet will be forever empty.

After viewing your post I started thinking about an external rad box consisting of 4x EX480 radiators. Not going to happen..


----------



## halukkilic




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> You could replace the heat spreaders with EK Monarch DIMM Modules. They can be run without a waterblock and turn any stick of RAM into something aesthetically pleasing.
> 
> I ran mine like that for a while until I got my block for them. I'll never use RAM without the EK DIMM Modules again, love the look of them and makes buying RAM easy, get the best performing DIMMs for the price no matter how horrible looking.


Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Looked for some cheap used doms but they're going for much more then a year ago. Lame








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fixed.
> 
> MilSpec drew a lot of attention just for the colours alone.


I think Yellow is one of those colors you have to be careful with. It goes great with black and looks *awesome* with green.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I dig the clear tubing - yellow pastel combo.
> 
> The clear tubing gives it a nice cell shaded look while the yellow is just awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reminds me of Borderlands.


Thanks, i do love it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Supremacy looks a little thirsty still
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's in the works my friend. Plexi is unfortunately harder to work with than Acetal and that is the only thing stopping us from bringing it to market currently. It is in the works though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe goldfish.


Thanks Derick. I'll keep an eye out for the plexi one. Hopefully its not frosted and csq'd








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> As per request
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Added more pictures.


Awesome stuff







. Think you should re-enter Motm








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Rain on peoples parade much










It is a first for me for an integrated res w/ fan mount. But mounting a res on a fan mounting is not new








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Here's mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking to add my GTX 670's into the loop soon.


Love the pastel! Is that Blueberry Mayhems? Very nice looking and can't wait to see em gpu's on water








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I have started leak checking the reservoir. So far everything is looking good. I will let it sit for a while and see if any leaks show up then I will add it to a loop to see how it performs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work! Patent that sucka' quickly








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Added some things to my rig, here is a quick snap shot. For more pictures please see my build log. (Link in Sig)


More pastel/di goodness








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Do you have a build log? Is the external case parts painted or what? So many questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Going with a Cosmos II?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> that looks sharp. well done.
> *cough* new ram *cough*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> great idea. if you can't find one that works for you, build your own. great job.


Lol, I found some green ram but I'm all out of cash atm. Gonna have to wait







. Plus, I have to remove the gpu(s) to undo the bottom clips of the ram slots (thank you GB for not doing slots like Asus w/ only one clip needed







). Other then that, I might pick up some AData 2400 XGP ram w/ yellow heatsinks. I'll be limited w/ the speed with my cpu but I can always get an IB chip later







.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Must.. resist.. going.. external!!
> 
> Once you go external you have unlimited space for rads and your wallet will be forever empty.
> 
> After viewing your post I started thinking about an external rad box consisting of 4x EX480 radiators. Not going to happen..


I went with 1080 and an EX 360










4 480s extrnally might be fun for the server cabinet I'm building


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Going with a Cosmos II?


Thinking about it... not sure though. Might apply the painting process to my LD PC-V8.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Thinking about it... not sure though. Might apply the painting process to my LD PC-V8.
> 
> Jeffinslaw












More pics:


----------



## szeged

Looking good wermad, did you notice that you made it onto EK's facebook page with your build
















still no e22 bending rod for my acrylic build in stock at PPC


----------



## vaporizer

@wermad. your going to need a crane to lift that thing to shake that air bubble out of the cpu block. that thing looks heavy(and awesome as well).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Looking good wermad, did you notice that you made it onto EK's facebook page with your build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still no e22 bending rod for my acrylic build in stock at PPC


Didn;t know that









Damn, You can always get the Primochill one, its only slightly smaller but should be negligible.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> @wermad. your going to need a crane to lift that thing to shake that air bubble out of the cpu block. that thing looks heavy(and awesome as well).


Its almost completely out. I just fired it up and everything is running. After a while, these large pockets will make their way out. A little rocking side to side or back to front helps. My case is less sturdy since I hacked it a bit, so no flipping like a pizza for now.

Sorry, double post. sleeping 6 month old on me and difficult to type and navigate. This kid likes to sleep to Motörhead's "Overkill"


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Didn;t know that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, You can always get the Primochill one, its only slightly smaller but should be negligible.


Considering switching from the xspc raystorm to a EK supremacy clean nickle block - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_490&products_id=37658

doubt ill see much of a temp drop, more of a aesthetics change really







was planning on pairing it with an EK ram dominator block, and a EK maximus vi hero block(when they release....release them already EK!), i still dont think id drop the hydro coppers off my titans though, i like them too much


----------



## TampaChaz

This work day needs to END already! I wanna go home and PLAY......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Considering switching from the xspc raystorm to a EK supremacy clean nickle block - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_490&products_id=37658
> 
> doubt ill see much of a temp drop, more of a aesthetics change really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was planning on pairing it with an EK ram dominator block, and a EK maximus vi hero block(when they release....release them already EK!), i still dont think id drop the hydro coppers off my titans though, i like them too much


To rrun color liquid, go for it


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To rrun color liquid, go for it


thinking about just ordering everything ppc has in stock now, and waiting to redo the loop in acrylic when EK releases the motherboard blocks, instead of redoing everything 10 times lol









yep thats right EK...youre ruining my build by not having products that are difficult to develop out faster. Way to go.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> This work day needs to END already! I wanna go home and PLAY......


i agree. temps over 100F with humidity in the 20's (usually in the low single digits). there will be lots of beer flowing tonight at Casa de Vaporizer


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Thanks. These are the phobya push fittings from. PPC. Highly recommend them.
> Thanks. A lot of trial and error but worth it.


I didn't think those fittings would be good for acrylic, heck I got a bunch still unused, I might just try it out sometime soon







Wonderful job by the way, I love the coolant.


----------



## Trolle BE

im thinking of changing my ap-15's on my rad to nanoxia fx's(for the looks mainly)
would that be worth it?


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> im thinking of changing my ap-15's on my rad to nanoxia fx's(for the looks mainly)
> would that be worth it?


If you do, I'd buy those AP-15s off of you!


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics:






i'm looking at your rig and got ask are you representing my Jamaican flag colors in you build lol.... either i love it very eye catching...nice setup bra!!!


----------



## Daredevil 720

@wermad: What kind of clear tubing is that? According to Mayhems this better not be Primochill.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> @wermad: What kind of clear tubing is that? According to Mayhems this better not be Primochill.


it looks to be primo advanced lrt.


----------



## Daredevil 720

That's why I'm asking him, I also think it's Advanced LRT.

According to Mayhems the pastel coolants react with this tubing making it green.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> That's why I'm asking him, I also think it's Advanced LRT.
> 
> According to Mayhems the pastel coolants react with this tubing making it green.


well...then itll just blend in with the rest of his build


----------



## Daredevil 720

Something tells me it's going to look like mold..


----------



## szeged

New build idea, waterlogged run down house, featuring....mold cooling.


----------



## kcuestag

@Wermad might want to tilt the case sideways and up/backwards to bleed the bubbles, you got some nice big bubbles in the CPU block.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> @Wermad might want to tilt the case sideways and up/backwards to bleed the bubbles, you got some nice big bubbles in the CPU block.


moving a watercool filled 900d is not easy task lol, i built my 900D rig on the floor...only to realize my desk is upstairs.......next time i do a build in a case this big im doing it ON the desk im gonna have it on lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> @Wermad might want to tilt the case sideways and up/backwards to bleed the bubbles, you got some nice big bubbles in the CPU block.


I've been doing that and usually the rads expelled their air bubbles out. The block, its been slowly working its way out. I say about a couple more days and the air should purge out on its own.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> @wermad: What kind of clear tubing is that? According to Mayhems this better not be Primochill.


Its Primochill Advane.

Haven't heard that and I've seen a few builds with Pastel and Advance already. But I'll keep an eye on it


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've been doing that and usually the rads expelled their air bubbles out. The block, its been slowly working its way out. I say about a couple more days and the air should purge out on its own.


I had an air bubble in one of my GPU blocks this last fill. I shook, tilted, and tapped on the case for two days and no luck. I bothered me so much every time I looked at the case, I thought I would go crazy. then on the third day, it went away. darn stubborn air pockets. I brush off micro bubbles as no big deal, but air pockets drive me bonkers.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> I had an air bubble in one of my GPU blocks this last fill. I shook, tilted, and tapped on the case for two days and no luck. I bothered me so much every time I looked at the case, I thought I would go crazy. then on the third day, it went away. darn stubborn air pockets. I brush off micro bubbles as no big deal, but air pockets drive me bonkers.


It's like a "stuck" fart......bothers ya until it finally works it's way out.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> It's like a "stuck" fart......bothers ya until it finally works it's way out.


I had one of those at work today that I finally got rid of when I was on top of a ladder with 3 of my co workers below me making sure nothing caught on fire. I blamed the smell on the welding fumes,iI blamed the sound on the fart


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> moving a watercool filled 900d is not easy task lol, i built my 900D rig on the floor...only to realize my desk is upstairs.......next time i do a build in a case this big im doing it ON the desk im gonna have it on lol.


I have to move the NZXT and external rad box from one end of the house to the other. I picked it up the other day for the first time since adding all the fun parts and almost fell over on it! I have a set of casters from my Blackhawk Super Tower that I didn't install and I've been eyeing them for this beast......problem is, I need a rig-sized hydralic lift to hold this thing while I install the wheels. Uh oh....I just had a vision. NO...stop it! Go away little mod monster! This project is done ( at least for this month).


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've been doing that and usually the rads expelled their air bubbles out. The block, its been slowly working its way out. I say about a couple more days and the air should purge out on its own.
> Its Primochill Advane.
> 
> Haven't heard that and I've seen a few builds with Pastel and Advance already. But I'll keep an eye on it


I think primochill advanced lrt is supposed to work well with mayhems according to his post in users club. Pretty sure he also sells it from his webpage along with tygon as the tubing he recommendeds.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> @wermad: What kind of clear tubing is that? According to Mayhems this better not be Primochill.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> I think primochill advanced lrt is supposed to work well with mayhems according to his post in users club. Pretty sure he also sells it from his webpage along with tygon as the tubing he recommendeds.


Thanks







I was also thinking the same thing. Time will tell


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> @wermad: What kind of clear tubing is that? According to Mayhems this better not be Primochill.


The Primochill Pro LRT was the one with problems. As seen in the image below from when I had it in my old loop



Primochill Advance LRT should be fine from everything I have seen. Wermad has also posted quite a bit in the Mayhem User Club about the tubing and no one, including Mayhem, brought it up, so I'd assume that he should be fine


----------



## Daredevil 720

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/pastel.html
Quote:


> Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour. This is not the fault of Primochill, Tygon or Mayhems it is just a incompatibility issue. Pastel works fine with XSPC, Thermochill, Clear Flex, Masterclear and a few other brands.


Not sure if he's talking about the Advanced or not.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/pastel.html
> Not sure if he's talking about the Advanced or not.


I am pretty sure that is old information that was posted before the release of the Advanced. They are currently redoing their website, so I do not think they will update until the new site is released.


----------



## wermad

Mike hasn't said anything to me and Advance is pretty much the darling right now to avoid plasticizing. I'll wait to see how this develops in a next few weeks.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The Primochill Pro LRT was the one with problems. As seen in the image below from when I had it in my old loop
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Primochill Advance LRT should be fine from everything I have seen. Wermad has also posted quite a bit in the Mayhem User Club about the tubing and no one, including Mayhem, brought it up, so I'd assume that he should be fine


That's exactly what happened to my PRO LRT. Except mine was mint coloured from the green coolant.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Added some things to my rig, here is a quick snap shot. For more pictures please see my build log. (Link in Sig)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the routing between the CPU block and motherboard blocks. What tubing is that?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Th
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I had one of those at work today that I finally got rid of when I was on top of a ladder with 3 of my co workers below me making sure nothing caught on fire. I blamed the smell on the welding fumes,iI blamed the sound on the fart


they knew it was you...


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mike hasn't said anything to me and Advance is pretty much the darling right now to avoid plasticizing. I'll wait to see how this develops in a next few weeks.


So long as you check it often you'll be fine. You'd catch it before it would become a major problem, if it even does since this is a new batch from Primochill and not the older stuff.


----------



## szeged

If it does mess up for wermad, I vote he goes hard acrylic again


----------



## wermad

My Advance green didn't turn w/ the Mayhems Emerald green dye and then just running pure distilled. Crossing fingers it holds


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> If it does mess up for wermad, I vote he goes hard acrylic again


Me too!

Just made my first bend of acrylic and I'm pretty excited so I'm posting a pic


----------



## justplainslow

Well the 900D is almost complete. Still got some detail work to do then it's time to play.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Me too!
> 
> Just made my first bend of acrylic and I'm pretty excited so I'm posting a pic


Porn on the way?
sigh i really wanna update mine with acrylic, but too busy lately

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justplainslow*
> 
> Well the 900D is almost complete. Still got some detail work to do then it's time to play.


No build log?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> If it does mess up for wermad, I vote he goes hard acrylic again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Me too!
> 
> Just made my first bend of acrylic and I'm pretty excited so I'm posting a pic
Click to expand...

Not for my rig







. Its just way to cramped in the main components area. I'm really happy w/ the clear tube and pastel. I love the fluid bends you can do. I was thinking of doing 3/8x1/4 tube but the MettleAir fittings, its recommended to bore them out as they're restrictive. Other then that, I love the phobya 10mm fittings but tube is gonna get expensive (E22).


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Porn on the way?
> sigh i really wanna update mine with acrylic, but too busy lately


It is in progress...it will probably be a little while as I am acquiring parts still and haven't ordered any blocks yet. I got a small amount of acrylic to test out and practice with before I get fully invested into it. So far, I LIKE IT!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Hello Everyone. I got parts ordered and will go shopping for a Rad or 2 this weekend.

I got two possible layouts, hoping to get some feedback on wich will work better.

Option 1 has 2 120mm quad radiators.


Option 2 has 1 480 rad and 1 140mm rad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Hello Everyone. I got parts ordered and will go shopping for a Rad or 2 this weekend.
> 
> I got two possible layouts, hoping to get some feedback on wich will work better.
> 
> Option 1 has 2 120mm quad radiators.
> 
> 
> Option 2 has 1 480 rad and 1 140mm rad.










upside down

Just put the pump after the res, everything else, there's no specific order. Plumb your loop as cleanly as you'd wish,


----------



## defiler2k

I have a question for the Acrylic experts here, I was thinking of changing my tubing to acrylic however, I'm a fan of having the QDC fittings on my GPU's to add or swap out GPU's without having to drain the entire loop. Any ideas on how to possibly do this with hard tubing? I can use the koolance QDC's with G1/4 to attach the fittings to the tubing to the QDC but I don't see how I would have enough room to connect and disconnect the fitting to the other end.


----------



## ChaosAD

I was thinking to upgrade my current rad, so, is the UT60 480 with 4xAP15 the best possible solution for the bottom of a TJ07? I find the APs at 1850rpm totaly silent for me, thats why i dont change them. But if you have any better rad/fan combination please advice before i make the order.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I have a question for the Acrylic experts here, I was thinking of changing my tubing to acrylic however, I'm a fan of having the QDC fittings on my GPU's to add or swap out GPU's without having to drain the entire loop. Any ideas on how to possibly do this with hard tubing? I can use the koolance QDC's with G1/4 to attach the fittings to the tubing to the QDC but I don't see how I would have enough room to connect and disconnect the fitting to the other end.


QDC's won't work with acrylic tubing it'd be better to make a drain port and just use that.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> upside down
> 
> Just put the pump after the res, everything else, there's no specific order. Plumb your loop as cleanly as you'd wish,


Geez, don't know why that happens.

So then, a single 480 be enough?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I have a question for the Acrylic experts here, I was thinking of changing my tubing to acrylic however, I'm a fan of having the QDC fittings on my GPU's to add or swap out GPU's without having to drain the entire loop. Any ideas on how to possibly do this with hard tubing? I can use the koolance QDC's with G1/4 to attach the fittings to the tubing to the QDC but I don't see how I would have enough room to connect and disconnect the fitting to the other end.


While you could connect it to a QDC, it wouldn't accomplish much for you as there would be no play in the tube to actually disconnect the tube!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Geez, don't know why that happens.
> 
> So then, a single 480 be enough?


A single 480 would be enough for CPU and 2 GPU, however, having more doesn't hurt









I suggest getting the rads in place and some sample tube and play with the layout to see what you like best and what you can manage to fit. Sometimes it is hard to completely visualize it ahead of time.


----------



## wermad

Acrylic has a subtle play to it but I don't recommend qdc's for it. Just have a good drainage plan.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Hello Everyone. I got parts ordered and will go shopping for a Rad or 2 this weekend.
> 
> I got two possible layouts, hoping to get some feedback on wich will work better.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Option 1 has 2 120mm quad radiators.
> 
> 
> Option 2 has 1 480 rad and 1 140mm rad.


I have something similar to your option #2 the only difference is that my pump is mounted to my reservoir, Im going to the CPU first, then the 140 and then the 480 however I have the 480 on the bottom to keep the tubing aligned. My coolant temperatures are about 0.5 degrees C over ambient on idle and about 13-20C above ambient on load (depending if it is CPU load, GPU load or both) with fans at 50% on load (My fan curb doesn't go to 100% unless my CPU goes beyond 70C which has never happened). I actually had to recently adjust my fan curb because when gaming my CPU was not getting hot but my GPU's were warming up the coolant because I had my curb set to 0% until the CPU hit 40C which did not happen after about an hour or two of Metro.

I was thinking about adding another AX480 to my loop but I honestly cant justify it since now that I adjusted the fans this work extremely well.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> A single 480 would be enough for CPU and 2 GPU, however, having more doesn't hurt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest getting the rads in place and some sample tube and play with the layout to see what you like best and what you can manage to fit. Sometimes it is hard to completely visualize it ahead of time.


Gotcha.
Thanks for the input


----------



## ZnJ

Wow, ton of awesome builds here, well here's mine












http://www.overclock.net/t/1401467/build-log-julian


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Geez, don't know why that happens.
> 
> So then, a single 480 be enough?


More can't hurt especially if you have a 900D. This is ocn, its must tbh







. I currently have two 480s, a 360, a 240, and a 120 in my 900D


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZnJ*
> 
> Wow, ton of awesome builds here, well here's mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No acrylic bending huh? Still love it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> More can't hurt especially if you have a 900D. This is ocn, its must tbh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I currently have two 480s, a 360, a 240, and a 120 in my 900D


Out of curiosity, what are your temps?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZnJ*
> 
> Wow, ton of awesome builds here, well here's mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Build log? I must see more!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Out of curiosity, what are your temps?


I haven't checked w/ the new Supremacy but the gpu(s) idle in the high 20s to low 30s and load between 40-45c, depending on ambient..

edit: I know pastel you take a small hit.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Acrylic has a subtle play to it but I don't recommend qdc's for it. Just have a good drainage plan.


TAKE A HACKSAW TO IT!!!!

Haha, jk...better add that drain line


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I haven't checked w/ the new Supremacy but the gpu(s) idle in the high 20s to low 30s and load between 40-45c, depending on ambient..
> 
> edit: I know pastel you take a small hit.


On idle. the pastel will be at worst 1 degree hotter. At full load, slightly more, but within a couple degrees


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> I was thinking to upgrade my current rad, so, is the UT60 480 with 4xAP15 the best possible solution for the bottom of a TJ07? I find the APs at 1850rpm totaly silent for me, thats why i dont change them. But if you have any better rad/fan combination please advice before i make the order.


I don't like to use the term "best", but a UT60 480 would be an excellent rad for a TJ07. I have a 480 Monsta in mine, but that's a tight squeeze compared to the UT60. As for the AP-15s, I run six of them at 1850 rpm all the time, four on the Monsta, and two on an XSPC RX 240, and also find them acceptable for their sound level vs performance.


----------



## szeged

proposed loop layout of acrylic, let me know what you guys think, will be adding in the motherboard blocks and ram blocks whenever EK gets around to releasing the mobo blocks











open to suggestions and critiques. Its basically the same layout as my current design because...well, its simple and it works







but let me know if you got any better ideas


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> proposed loop layout of acrylic, let me know what you guys think, will be adding in the motherboard blocks and ram blocks whenever EK gets around to releasing the mobo blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> open to suggestions and critiques. Its basically the same layout as my current design because...well, its simple and it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but let me know if you got any better ideas


could you turn the bottom rad the other way? This would allow for some cleaner and shorter routing. Also, perhaps a pump top with res fitting might look nice


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> proposed loop layout of acrylic, let me know what you guys think, will be adding in the motherboard blocks and ram blocks whenever EK gets around to releasing the mobo blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> open to suggestions and critiques. Its basically the same layout as my current design because...well, its simple and it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but let me know if you got any better ideas


You're bound to run into the same issues i had (top rad > cpu). Turn the top rad 180. you might have to push back the i/o compartment a bit (if its a 480). I loosened mine up a bit and does stick out. Or, just cut off a bit. If you go w/ slim rads and no top bank of fans, you can probably pull it off but its gonna be tight though.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> could you turn the bottom rad the other way? This would allow for some cleaner and shorter routing. Also, perhaps a pump top with res fitting might look nice


The power supply will get in the way unfortunately, also have a drain port connected to the bottom raid aswell lol so that would get in the way also.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You're bound to run into the same issues i had. Turn the top rad 180. you might have to push back the i/o compartment a bit. I loosened mine up a bit and does stick out. Or, just cut off a bit.


yeh im think the short runs near the cpu/top rad will be hell, i think ill try them like this and see if i have any luck, if not ill try to turn the rad around.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> The power supply will get in the way unfortunately, also have a drain port connected to the bottom raid aswell lol so that would get in the way also.
> yeh im think the short runs near the cpu/top rad will be hell, i think ill try them like this and see if i have any luck, if not ill try to turn the rad around.


Quicker then I can edit









Is it a 360 or 480 and if its a slim rad, with no top bank of fans, you can probably pull it off.


----------



## szeged

its a xspc ex360 on top, 35mm wide, push pull config. I might also do straight acrylic runs with extra bitspower fittings near the cpu/top rad if i do have some trouble. Would cost a little extra, but if it helps out no biggie then


----------



## soul801

Has anyone here tried the rigid tubing? If so how is it to work with, just got mine in today and looks hard to measure out bend and cut.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Has anyone here tried the rigid tubing? If so how is it to work with, just got mine in today and looks hard to measure out bend and cut.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101

I would highly recommend sacrifice a small piece to practice on.

Also, check out this vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJxAd94t_j0

Captain Hindsight tip: always research before you jump the gun on new stuff. I looked into this for ~2 months but didn't like the results after doing mine. Good luck


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101
> 
> I would highly recommend sacrifice a small piece to practice on.
> 
> Also, check out this vid:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJxAd94t_j0
> 
> Captain Hindsight tip: always research before you jump the gun on new stuff. I looked into this for ~2 months but didn't like the results after doing mine. Good luck


Thanks for the info.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I have a question for the Acrylic experts here, I was thinking of changing my tubing to acrylic however, I'm a fan of having the QDC fittings on my GPU's to add or swap out GPU's without having to drain the entire loop. Any ideas on how to possibly do this with hard tubing? I can use the koolance QDC's with G1/4 to attach the fittings to the tubing to the QDC but I don't see how I would have enough room to connect and disconnect the fitting to the other end.


Whilst you can't use qdc's with acrylic you could install a bitspower shut-off valve on both sides of the GPU loop in the middle of the acrylic tubing or connected to the next components before and after the GPU loop section. That way you can just stop the before and after flow and disconnect the whole GPU section. Here's the valve:

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=FFiII25X&searchspec=bitspower+mini+valve&go.x=0&go.y=0


----------



## kingchris

paint time


----------



## jerry1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bindusar*
> 
> Here's mine, a little homemade deal that does the job...could be better
> 
> but could be worse.
> 
> D-Tek Fusion
> 
> Swiftech MCP655-B
> 
> Koolance Inline Reservoir
> 
> 2-120mm Thermaltake Thunderblades
> 
> Custom 1/2" Coiled Copper Tube Heat Exchange


Like it!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> paint time


Is that a monsta rad?


----------



## kingchris

they sure are.


----------



## Trolle BE

hmm gotta say that my temps are quite high tho (for what i expected anyway)
i idle at 25degrees at stock and when my cpu boosts up to 4.1ghz(100% load with linpack) i peak at 65degrees at the highest core

isnt that a bit high?


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> paint time


I hate when paint will chip at the brass part of the rad.


----------



## signalpuke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fixed.
> 
> MilSpec drew a lot of attention just for the colours alone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is an excellent contrast colour.
> Very nice SEBAR.


What case, and ram cooler, are in the pics?

Also, does anyone have recommendations for a case that places the motherboard directly in the middle, so there is room on all four sides between the top/bottom/front/back?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> hmm gotta say that my temps are quite high tho (for what i expected anyway)
> i idle at 25degrees at stock and when my cpu boosts up to 4.1ghz(100% load with linpack) i peak at 65degrees at the highest core
> 
> isnt that a bit high?


Not really,65c is in the normal bracket.
Depends on the chip.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signalpuke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed.
> 
> MilSpec drew a lot of attention just for the colours alone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is an excellent contrast colour.
> Very nice SEBAR.
> 
> 
> 
> What case, and ram cooler, are in the pics?
> 
> Also, does anyone have recommendations for a case that places the motherboard directly in the middle, so there is room on all four sides between the top/bottom/front/back?
Click to expand...

Corsair C70 case,Corsair Dominator Airflow Ram cooler.

There are no cases like you described,there is always the IO on one side.

Inwin do a cage case that may suit you.


----------



## Ehpik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> paint time


Omg. That's a huge rad.


----------



## defiler2k

I don't think those are bad temps, you also have to take in to account your ambient temperatures, if the delta between ambient and idle is high then there could be issues.


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signalpuke*
> 
> What case, and ram cooler, are in the pics?
> 
> Also, does anyone have recommendations for a case that places the motherboard directly in the middle, so there is room on all four sides between the top/bottom/front/back?


InWin D frame....

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/dfriiggi_zps45799448.png.html

you're welcome


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZnJ*
> 
> Wow, ton of awesome builds here, well here's mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1401467/build-log-julian


I hear the song "Smooth Operator" by Sade running through my head when I see that rig. It's very soothing and easy on the eyes.


----------



## ChaosAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I don't like to use the term "best", but a UT60 480 would be an excellent rad for a TJ07. I have a 480 Monsta in mine, but that's a tight squeeze compared to the UT60. As for the AP-15s, I run six of them at 1850 rpm all the time, four on the Monsta, and two on an XSPC RX 240, and also find them acceptable for their sound level vs performance.


I know that it sounds like a total noob question, but i use the term "best" for the rad ans fans as a combination. I think that i cant fit 140mm fans at the bottom of the TJ07 thats why i chose the 480. But also i didnt know that i can fit a 480 monsta in there. Can i really fit it with the psu in place? But with the monsta i ll also need push/pull right? Are you happy with 4xAP only? Is it better to get UT60 480 with 4xAP15, Monsta 480 with 4xAP15 or Monsta 480 with 8xsome cheaper also good performing but not noisy fans (is there space for this)?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> I didn't think those fittings would be good for acrylic, heck I got a bunch still unused, I might just try it out sometime soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful job by the way, I love the coolant.


These fittings are made for hard pipe. Acrylic or copper.


----------



## briddell

Now that I have my push-fittings, do I want acrylic or copper tubing?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

What fittings are those?


----------



## Daredevil 720

Hey people, take a look at this if you got the time.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1419371/radiator-space-benchmarks


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not really,65c is in the normal bracket.
> Depends on the chip.
> Corsair C70 case,Corsair Dominator Airflow Ram cooler.
> 
> There are no cases like you described,there is always the IO on one side.
> Inwin do a cage case that may suit you.


The Mountain Mods Ascension almost has a motherboard tray in the middle.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I don't like to use the term "best", but a UT60 480 would be an excellent rad for a TJ07. I have a 480 Monsta in mine, but that's a tight squeeze compared to the UT60. As for the AP-15s, I run six of them at 1850 rpm all the time, four on the Monsta, and two on an XSPC RX 240, and also find them acceptable for their sound level vs performance.
> 
> 
> 
> I know that it sounds like a total noob question, but i use the term "best" for the rad ans fans as a combination. I think that i cant fit 140mm fans at the bottom of the TJ07 thats why i chose the 480. But also i didnt know that i can fit a 480 monsta in there. Can i really fit it with the psu in place? But with the monsta i ll also need push/pull right? Are you happy with 4xAP only? Is it better to get UT60 480 with 4xAP15, Monsta 480 with 4xAP15 or Monsta 480 with 8xsome cheaper also good performing but not noisy fans (is there space for this)?
Click to expand...

Not a noob question at all, it's a good question!








I say "best" as well sometimes, it isn't a crime!







I just don't want to claim something as best, because that varies depending on the individual.
Have a look in my build log, I explained how initially I was going to use the 80mm thick 480 Monsta, then tried a slim rad, then decided to use the Monsta.
I did have to move the psu over a few mm, which required moving it back slightly, but I did manage to work it out.

If you want to avoid that hassle, a UT60 would be a great way to go, imo. There was no way I was able to have a push-pull fan arrangement on the Monsta, but I have been very pleased with a single set of AP-15s mounted to the outside of the rad, the temps. have been great in this 90F+ heat we've been having. I'm super happy with push-only!








I chose to stick with a push fan arrangement on my front-mounted XSPC RX240 rad as well.

Imo, I would suggest getting the UT60 480 rad if you want a good thick rad, without the hassles of the 80mm thick Monsta rad.
The difference in temps., if any, would be minimal at best.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Now that I have my push-fittings, do I want acrylic or copper tubing?


Its hard because Acrylic seems more of a challenge then soft copper tube. It really comes down imho if you want to show-off the liquid/coolant, then go w/ acrylic. Buy lots of angle adapters and extensions or get some bending going on. Good luck


----------



## signalpuke

Thanks for the suggestions everyone








The InWin, Mountain Mods, and CaseLabs cases all look like something I can design around.

One more quick question: Are there any 100% Aluminum cases? I see some like the Silverstone TF have aluminum exteriors, but it looks like it still has a steel chassis. Maybe that is asking too much


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signalpuke*
> 
> One more quick question: Are there any 100% Aluminum cases? I see some like the Silverstone TF have aluminum exteriors, but it looks like it still has a steel chassis. Maybe that is asking too much


All Lian Li's are aluminum in and out.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Now that I have my push-fittings, do I want acrylic or copper tubing?
> Quote:
Click to expand...

Depends, copper is more expensive







it looks good polished, dirty, it just looks good to me







(you can also paint it). I am thinking of trying acrylic with my Phobya push fits for my 2nd PC, as its 1/3rd the price of 1 meter hard copper from McMaster-Carr. Plus you can see the liquid in your loop and no worries about plasticizer clouding up the tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> These fittings are made for hard pipe. Acrylic or copper.


I knew they work on copper pipe (have them now) but also acrylic







That's why early on I didn't care or think about acrylic so much as I thought I would need BP c47, EK HD tubes, or something like those Primochill fittings in order for it to work. Nice to know the fittings I have I can do both copper and acrylic.


----------



## briddell

You guys are killing me. I'll probably just buy a few meters of acrylic, and see if I like it, and if not, I just need some copper.


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> What fittings are those?


Good question. Bought them from another user here on OCN, after almost buying some 10mm Festo fittings elsewhere. Let me find the link to these; they're 12mm OD brass, nickel plated somethings...


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Good question. Bought them from another user here on OCN, after almost buying some 10mm Festo fittings elsewhere. Let me find the link to these; they're 12mm OD brass, nickel plated somethings...


Thanks Brid.


----------



## d3adsy

Hey ya'll! Can i join WC Club with my home made monstrosity?







Here are some "glamour" shots



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Can't take the honor by saying that i soldered that CPU block. It's soldering was made by professional but the rest is my handywork










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I have replaced that hose by the rad and this is my first WC build


----------



## signalpuke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> All Lian Li's are aluminum in and out.


Good to know, thanks








I will take another look at those...they didn't seem to have any designs that I thought would be fun to build on.


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Thanks Brid.


Here they are: http://www.air-pneumatic-fittings.com/Nickel%20Plated%20Brass%20Air%20Fitting%20with%20BSPP%20Thread%20%28O-Ring%29/PMPC-G.html


----------



## briddell

Double post.


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3adsy*
> 
> Hey ya'll! Can i join WC Club with my home made monstrosity?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some "glamour" shots
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't take the honor by saying that i soldered that CPU block. It's soldering was made by professional but the rest is my handywork
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have replaced that hose by the rad and this is my first WC build


That's awesome!


----------



## d3adsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> That's awesome!


Thanks!


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Here they are: http://www.air-pneumatic-fittings.com/Nickel%20Plated%20Brass%20Air%20Fitting%20with%20BSPP%20Thread%20%28O-Ring%29/PMPC-G.html


Just adding on to that, here's a link to a PC watercooling company that sells them:

http://www.aquatuning.us/index.php/cat/c451_Push-In-nickel-silver.html


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signalpuke*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The InWin, Mountain Mods, and CaseLabs cases all look like something I can design around.
> 
> One more quick question: Are there any 100% Aluminum cases? I see some like the Silverstone TF have aluminum exteriors, but it looks like it still has a steel chassis. Maybe that is asking too much


If you want an aluminum case from SilverStone, there's always the venerable TJ07. Nice thick aluminum unibody, as opposed to some of the thin aluminum construction found on some other brands.


----------



## szeged

Caselabs as well


----------



## wermad

Not really a wc update, but at least the bubble is almost gone







. Oh, new ram too, to appease the ocd ocn'ers







.


----------



## gdubc

Nice lookin ram wermad...wasn't that the stuff you were looking for?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not really a wc update, but at least the bubble is almost gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Oh, new ram too, to appease the ocd ocn'ers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That real nice there...


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> I know that it sounds like a total noob question, but i use the term "best" for the rad ans fans as a combination. I think that i cant fit 140mm fans at the bottom of the TJ07 thats why i chose the 480. But also i didnt know that i can fit a 480 monsta in there. Can i really fit it with the psu in place? But with the monsta i ll also need push/pull right? Are you happy with 4xAP only? Is it better to get UT60 480 with 4xAP15, Monsta 480 with 4xAP15 or Monsta 480 with 8xsome cheaper also good performing but not noisy fans (is there space for this)?


I don't think that there will be space for push/pull with either monsta or UT60 480mm rad down there. Pretty sure you cannot fit a fan between the psu/radiator without moving the psu over. I currently have a UT60 480 and a 240mm Black Ice compact radiator in the bottom. You could fit a 3.140 mm radiator in the bottom if you really wanted as long as you don't use a radiator mount or anything it would be a really tight fit. UT60 is a great rad though and one of the top performers except at 600 rpms. UT60 with Ap-15s would be a really nice setup.

Nice radiator comparison at variety of fan speeds if you haven't seen it already.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> I know that it sounds like a total noob question, but i use the term "best" for the rad ans fans as a combination. I think that i cant fit 140mm fans at the bottom of the TJ07 thats why i chose the 480. But also i didnt know that i can fit a 480 monsta in there. Can i really fit it with the psu in place? But with the monsta i ll also need push/pull right? Are you happy with 4xAP only? Is it better to get UT60 480 with 4xAP15, Monsta 480 with 4xAP15 or Monsta 480 with 8xsome cheaper also good performing but not noisy fans (is there space for this)?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think that there will be space for push/pull with either monsta or UT60 480mm rad down there. Pretty sure you cannot fit a fan between the psu/radiator without moving the psu over. I currently have a UT60 480 and a 240mm Black Ice compact radiator in the bottom. You could fit a 3.140 mm radiator in the bottom if you really wanted as long as you don't use a radiator mount or anything it would be a really tight fit. UT60 is a great rad though and one of the top performers except at 600 rpms. UT60 with Ap-15s would be a really nice setup.
> 
> Nice radiator comparison at variety of fan speeds if you haven't seen it already.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/
Click to expand...

Check my build log, I'm running a 480 Monsta, but it requires moving the psu over. A push-pull fan arrangement isn't necessary for a Monsta rad.
As I mentioned previously, an Alphacool 480 Monsta 480 works fine with an AP-15 push arrangement just fine.
I recommend a UT-60 however, with a TJ07, unless you are willing to move the psu. Having done that, it works great.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Nice lookin ram wermad...wasn't that the stuff you were looking for?


Yes, it was right under my nose all this time. I totally forgot to checkout the local Fry's and they had it. They didn't have the 16gb kit which is 1600 1.35v but I'm fine with two 8gb kits (1600 1.5v).

Bubble is almost gone and I'm very pleased with the Pastel








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> That real nice there...


Thank you


----------



## Ehpik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not really a wc update, but at least the bubble is almost gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Oh, new ram too, to appease the ocd ocn'ers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I really like the way the color looks in the tubing.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not really a wc update, but at least the bubble is almost gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Oh, new ram too, to appease the ocd ocn'ers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thank you for the updated RAM SHOTS OCD did kick in but what a nice build. I am interested to see your GPU temps once you get up in running


----------



## Juthos

A semantical question :
Why do you define a radiator as a 360 ? Because you can fit 3x120mm fans, or because the heat dissipation surface area is 360 mm long.
My latest rad is a feser admiral *360*


but




result


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A semantical question :
> Why do you define a radiator as a 360 ? Because you can fit 3x120mm fans, or because the heat dissipation surface area is 360 mm long.
> My latest rad is a feser admiral *360*


First one, because you can fit 3x120mm fans


----------



## wermad

^^^The former. Accommodates three 120mm fans


----------



## golfergolfer

Hmm I finished my build a little while ago but I think I forgot to post it here







Well here it is now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You wasted money on that rad,its junk at best.....
360s are 360s because they take 3 120 fans....also,try taking measurements from the external faces,not from an internal face like your first pic shows.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hmm I finished my build a little while ago but I think I forgot to post it here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here it is now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very clean.


----------



## Juthos

My last two pictures really bother me, i can not understand the reason for that. It's well built and nice looking, i hope they'll show up and explain it, and also disclose the eta of the transparent end tanks.
External measurements= 378 mm.


----------



## Ehpik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hmm I finished my build a little while ago but I think I forgot to post it here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here it is now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man, I really like that build. I think you did a good job with it.


----------



## jerry1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hmm I finished my build a little while ago but I think I forgot to post it here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here it is now










i like too your work!


----------



## DrakeZ

Hello guys

Please advise, i want to know if these 2 options has significant differences and which one is better?

Option 1:
Res -> pump -> wb -> rad

Option 2:
Res -> pum -> rad -> wb

Sorry for the noob question


----------



## signalpuke

option 2.


----------



## Eyedea

Whichever results in the shortest tubing. Dont think it makes much diff going from rad to wb as after a while the temps will even themselves out.

Could be wrong though, im sure more experienced persons will chime in.


----------



## mbondPDX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Whichever results in the shortest tubing. Dont think it makes much diff going from rad to wb as after a while the temps will even themselves out.
> 
> Could be wrong though, im sure more experienced persons will chime in.


^ This. I'm no expert but I've seen this answered a few times. Go with whatever looks the best.


----------



## cyphon

Not really water cooling specific here, but...........

Anyone try these yet? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147247

Sustained write speed of 410 MB/s.......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> Please advise, i want to know if these 2 options has significant differences and which one is better?
> 
> Option 1:
> Res -> pump -> wb -> rad
> 
> Option 2:
> Res -> pum -> rad -> wb
> 
> Sorry for the noob question


Either one (like Eyedea said). As long as you have the pump after the res, you can then plumb the loop which ever order you wish. Have fun with it too. Part of wc is the imagination that goes into of how you connect things. A good pump should handle that loop w/ ease


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Either one (like Eyedea said). As long as you have the pump after the res, you can then plumb the loop which ever order you wish. Have fun with it too. Part of wc is the imagination that goes into of how you connect things. A good pump should handle that loop w/ ease


This ^

Pump needs res before it to draw water from. Your rad is there to remove heat from the system and will do this no matter where it is in the loop. Make clean routes and do what works best and looks best in your case


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea*
> 
> Whichever results in the shortest tubing. Dont think it makes much diff going from rad to wb as after a while the temps will even themselves out.
> 
> Could be wrong though, im sure more experienced persons will chime in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> ^ This. I'm no expert but I've seen this answered a few times. Go with whatever looks the best.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Either one (like Eyedea said). As long as you have the pump after the res, you can then plumb the loop which ever order you wish. Have fun with it too. Part of wc is the imagination that goes into of how you connect things. A good pump should handle that loop w/ ease


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This ^
> 
> Pump needs res before it to draw water from. Your rad is there to remove heat from the system and will do this no matter where it is in the loop. Make clean routes and do what works best and looks best in your case


Wow guys thank you for all the advice!

I just changed my case and still thinking the loop

My previous loop has radiator before wb and for the new case, option 1 has cleaner look than option 2, but i'm scared it will make my processor temp goes up

Now without doubt i will go to the option 1!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New fans for me....when they actually appear.....

They will look good in the S3 i think....

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/Scythe-Grand-Flex-120,news-45073.html


----------



## steelkevin

I need to get a temp sensor but right now I want to know my delta.

Can I open my reservoir while the PC's on and dip the sensor that's currently giving me ambient temps into it or will the reservoir overflow ?
Do you calculate Delta on idle or running prime or IBT ?

And about the temp sensors, I want a basic 1/4" plug that I can just have at the bottom of the reservoir but they all seems quite expensive (16-20€) is there an ebay shop with cheap ones people here use ?

Thanks in advance


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> very clean.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ehpik*
> 
> Man, I really like that build. I think you did a good job with it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerry1998*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i like too your work!


Thanks all! I am really happy with how it all turned out and had so much fun building it!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not really a wc update, but at least the bubble is almost gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Oh, new ram too, to appease the ocd ocn'ers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


People gave me crap about my Samsung 30nm ram because it does not look good. However overclocks to 2133 easily so screw it. I like the ram update though.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hmm I finished my build a little while ago but I think I forgot to post it here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here it is now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks Great. Did you make that case?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Looks Great. Did you make that case?


No he didn't ^^. It's some sort of community project (but not really) come true.
You can go to the following page to read about it and order one if you want to:
http://www.craftograph.com/compactsplash/index.php?route=common/home

Anything about this ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I need to get a temp sensor but right now I want to know my delta.
> 
> Can I open my reservoir while the PC's on and dip the sensor that's currently giving me ambient temps into it or will the reservoir overflow ?
> Do you calculate Delta on idle or running prime or IBT ?
> 
> And about the temp sensors, I want a basic 1/4" plug that I can just have at the bottom of the reservoir but they all seems quite expensive (16-20€) is there an ebay shop with cheap ones people here use ?
> 
> Thanks in advance


I really don't feel like finding out the hard way.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> People gave me crap about my Samsung 30nm ram because it does not look good. However overclocks to 2133 easily so screw it. I like the ram update though.


Think some of their ocd is rubbing on me







. Wife approved, so I got the nod from the highest authority. Nuff said


----------



## soulreaper05

I ordered bitspower G 1/4 matte black temperature stop fittings from frozenCPU for $10.95 each.

Delta is measured at idle after letting your coolant reach a constant temperature.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Looks Great. Did you make that case?


No I didnt, it was made by Dwood the artisan here. There is a wait list in Sheloved E's artisan thread if you are interested in one


----------



## kcuestag

For those with EK waterblocks (If you have a RIVE, better) or those with knowledge about it, I'm going to get these blocks for my Rampage IV Extreme off a friend (Pic from his rig):



And I was wondering if they'll match the height of my EK Supreme HF Plexi (CPU Waterblock) so that I could use 90º adapter/fittings and do straight lines between them. Do you guys think that will be possible? Or these blocks combined with my CPU block will be uneven? Not sure if I explained my self properly.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those with EK waterblocks (If you have a RIVE, better) or those with knowledge about it, I'm going to get these blocks for my Rampage IV Extreme off a friend (Pic from his rig):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I was wondering if they'll match the height of my EK Supreme HF Plexi (CPU Waterblock) so that I could use 90º adapter/fittings and do straight lines between them. Do you guys think that will be possible? Or these blocks combined with my CPU block will be uneven? Not sure if I explained my self properly.


You will need extenders, they do not sit even.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> You will need extenders, they do not sit even.


Since I'm using tubing (Not acrylic) and only CPU/Mobo blocks (No RAM) you reckon it'll be fine without the extenders?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Since I'm using tubing (Not acrylic) and only CPU/Mobo blocks (No RAM) you reckon it'll be fine without the extenders?


Physics tell me yes, my OCD tells me NO









EDIT: Actually, looking at it, it may be a little tight without an extender, using a compression fitting. I would just invest in a few short extenders just in case.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Physics tell me yes, my OCD tells me NO


Damn, I wish I had someone with my very same configuration to try it out.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Physics tell me yes, my OCD tells me NO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Actually, looking at it, it may be a little tight without an extender, using a compression fitting. I would just invest in a few short extenders just in case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Since I'm using tubing (Not acrylic) and only CPU/Mobo blocks (No RAM) you reckon it'll be fine without the extenders?


Get extenders. Or you'll end up like mine.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Freakin' tight. Worst of you're using Primo ADV LRT, it's really stiff.


----------



## kcuestag

By extenders do you guys mean this? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/adapter-fittings/ek-extender-g1-4-nickel.html


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I need to get a temp sensor but right now I want to know my delta.
> 
> Can I open my reservoir while the PC's on and dip the sensor that's currently giving me ambient temps into it or will the reservoir overflow ?
> Do you calculate Delta on idle or running prime or IBT ?
> 
> And about the temp sensors, I want a basic 1/4" plug that I can just have at the bottom of the reservoir but they all seems quite expensive (16-20€) is there an ebay shop with cheap ones people here use ?
> 
> Thanks in advance


I use the XSPC G 1/4 sensors I have two of them to measure the fluid that is leaving the hottest point of the loop (GPUS) and the fluid that is returning to my reservoir. I also use this to check how much of a difference I see in temps when running the fans in the case at certain speeds.

You would measure Deltas in fluid by subtracting the ambient vs the coolant temps at the points you are checking.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> By extenders do you guys mean this? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/adapter-fittings/ek-extender-g1-4-nickel.html


You could use those, but Bitspower has an array of different sizes in different finishes that will help to better get a precision fitment.

Here's an example search of what I mean:
http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=fheupkP2&searchspec=Bitspower+G+1%2F4%22+Thread+Fitting+Extender


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For those with EK waterblocks (If you have a RIVE, better) or those with knowledge about it, I'm going to get these blocks for my Rampage IV Extreme off a friend (Pic from his rig):
> 
> 
> 
> And I was wondering if they'll match the height of my EK Supreme HF Plexi (CPU Waterblock) so that I could use 90º adapter/fittings and do straight lines between them. Do you guys think that will be possible? Or these blocks combined with my CPU block will be uneven? Not sure if I explained my self properly.


I've you're using 19/12 or 16/10mm tube, you can easily bend a nice curve


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've you're using 19/12 or 16/10mm tube, you can easily bend a nice curve


It will be 16/11mm tubing, the thing is I want to use 90º angled adapter/fittings to keep straight lines, you think it'll be possible?









I don't want to do curves around the board like the picture I actually posted from my friend, I want all to be 90º angled adapters to make it as straight as possible.


----------



## briddell

Thinking of making waterblocks, using my mill and/or CNC, but I want to know what you guys look for in blocks, both aesthetically, and functionally?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Thinking of making waterblocks, using my mill and/or CNC, but I want to know what you guys look for in blocks, both aesthetically, and functionally?


Aesthetically, make them non-chunky. I don't really know how to explain it but the EK board block for the OC Force is absolutely gorgeous. It is all the same height and just looks good. Also, a mixture of materials like POM and copper and you could design them so that if someone wanted an acrylic top, it would easy on your end to make one.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Sunreeper

Functionality wise it depends on what you're cooling certain waterblocks have specific channels and fin arrangements to ensure that the water cools the necessary areas of the product.


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Aesthetically, make them non-chunky. I don't really know how to explain it but the EK board block for the OC Force is absolutely gorgeous. It is all the same height and just looks good. Also, a mixture of materials like POM and copper and you could design them so that if someone wanted an acrylic top, it would easy on your end to make one.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


That OC Force block is a complete ripoff of Mips! I love their style, will probably try to mirror it with my own little twist.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Thinking of making waterblocks, using my mill and/or CNC, but I want to know what you guys look for in blocks, both aesthetically, and functionally?


Good luck, its a small market.

Clean looks are very popular now it seems. Square edges and flat surfaces are king. The EK block is not a rip off of the MIPS, where on earth did you get that conclusion from?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Thinking of making waterblocks, using my mill and/or CNC, but I want to know what you guys look for in blocks, both aesthetically, and functionally?


Clean is important. As someone mentioned, variety of materials is nice. Also, make sure the inlets/outlets are in good places and can fit even the larger compression fittings.

Try to find a signature that sets your design apart from the other guys. Example:

Koolance: All shiny silver finishes
EK: Acrylic tops
XSPC: Black top over acrylic, lit up by LED

Obviously there are many others, but those are the ones that came to mind immediately


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Clean is important. As someone mentioned, variety of materials is nice. Also, make sure the inlets/outlets are in good places and can fit even the larger compression fittings.
> 
> Try to find a signature that sets your design apart from the other guys. Example:
> 
> Koolance: All shiny silver finishes
> EK: Clean and acrylic tops
> XSPC: Black top over acrylic, lit up by LED
> 
> Obviously there are many others, but those are the ones that came to mind immediately


I was thinking raw copper tops, with both a shiny and _brushed_ style top, probably coated in a thin clear coat to prevent damage to the copper itself.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Hey all!! Would you folks mind taking a look at these temps and telling me what you think? Here's the deal... I am moving part by part, as many of us do with our first water loops, into a full custom loop. Currently, I am using this H220, the original res/rad, an add-on 120, and more importantly, two EK 670 DCUII blocks and the EK CSQ bridge (all in my rig in the sig below).

Also, can you more experienced WC'ers out there tell me what I might expect from a fully custom loop with a snugly fit 250mm res, I don't know what pump I should use, and if it's worth looking at the Phobia 400 rad for the front since it's already modded a bit, and should I not have a rad at the top or the back for airflow??

Here are the temps I am getting now. The load is BF3 for 1 hour over 5760 x 1080. Not the most stable game in the world for overclockers...











Here is the rig for easy visual reference again:

Now:



Before water, but the front situation is the same.



3820 @ 4.3
16GB @ 2133
SSD - OS only
SSD R0 - for games only
3TB HDD - Storage and games I dont want to re-download from Steam
670 4GB SLI @ +120 Core +200 Mem +100 CV +122 PL

So the goal of the rig is *GAMING*... almost *exclusively* outside of a few days a month I use it for a larger project for the screen real estate.

Thanks for your help!! Let me know if something doesn't make sense...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> The EK block is not a rip off of the MIPS, where on earth did you get that conclusion from?


That looks pretty similar to the mips blocks for the Asus MVE if you ask me! I do like it though. I really ike the OC Force board also...nothin like a little overkill!!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all!! Would you folks mind taking a look at these temps and telling me what you think? Here's the deal... I am moving part by part, as many of us do with our first water loops, into a full custom loop. Currently, I am using this H220, the original res/rad, an add-on 120, and more importantly, two EK 670 DCUII blocks and the EK CSQ bridge (all in my rig in the sig below).
> 
> Also, can you more experienced WC'ers out there tell me what I might expect from a fully custom loop with a snugly fit 250mm res, I don't know what pump I should use, and if it's worth looking at the Phobia 400 rad for the front since it's already modded a bit, and should I not have a rad at the top or the back for airflow??
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the temps I am getting now. The load is BF3 for 1 hour over 5760 x 1080. Not the most stable game in the world for overclockers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the rig for easy visual reference again:
> 
> Now:
> 
> 
> 
> Before water, but the front situation is the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 3820 @ 4.3
> 16GB @ 2133
> SSD - OS only
> SSD R0 - for games only
> 3TB HDD - Storage and games I dont want to re-download from Steam
> 670 4GB SLI @ +120 Core +200 Mem +100 CV +122 PL
> 
> So the goal of the rig is *GAMING*... almost *exclusively* outside of a few days a month I use it for a larger project for the screen real estate.
> 
> Thanks for your help!! Let me know if something doesn't make sense...


Temps quite high @4.3GHz. Does running BF3 at large resolution causing the CPU to run a lot harder







I'm guessing ambient around 29 - 30C







Mine max at 62C @4.5GHz in 31C ambient with H100 but BF3 is 1080p only.


----------



## Juthos

New titan's waterblock from Bitspower:


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I use the XSPC G 1/4 sensors I have two of them to measure the fluid that is leaving the hottest point of the loop (GPUS) and the fluid that is returning to my reservoir. I also use this to check how much of a difference I see in temps when running the fans in the case at certain speeds.
> 
> You would measure Deltas in fluid by subtracting the ambient vs the coolant temps at the points you are checking.


Thanks for answering to part of my post







.

I wouldn't invest in two 1/4 sensors even if they weren't so expensive. I was expecting you lot knew about some cheap sensors like with LEDs but I guess I'll have to cash out 20€ then :/.

I know how to calculate Delta temps, I was wondering if it was done @idle or full load but I think somebody answered that and said you had to do it once the liquid's temp was stable (so not right after booting up).

As for opening the reservoir while the pump's running I guess I'll have to find out on my own since it looks like not a single one of you knows...

EDIT:
So yes, you can remove a reservoir's cap while the pump is running without it overflowing which means that I've lost a lot of time when filling my loop. I used to fill the res, close it, run the pump and repeat until the loop was full... this means I could've just turned the pump on and poored the liquid into the reservoir until the loop was full







.

My Delta T° is between 4.7°C and 5.2°C so that just taught me there's nothing wrong with my loop and it's running great (Martin's liquid lab says 5°C is extreme performance, 10°C decent and 15°C bad or something like that).
For the testing I used a single sensor which is why the reading can't be 100% accurate since I wasn't reading both temps at the same time and ambient may have changed. I booted the computer and used it for a good 30-45minutes and then ran IBT Maximum Ram / Xtreme Stress mode for five runs and wrote down the highest water T°.

Does anybody here have any experience with the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2's dust filters ? For the testing the top and side pannels were removed and so was the front dust filter / mesh thing and my CPU never went above 60°C (HWMonitor, RealTemp and HWiNFO64), last night with a 28°C ambient instead of ~22.5°C my max CPU temp under max / Xtreme IBT was 72°C with everything on the case.

EDIT:
forget about the Arc Midi R2's dust filters, they were much filthier than they looked. I closed my bathroom's sink and ran water through the front dust filter + mesh and the water was full of dust. I couldn't do that with the top dust filter because it's way too big so I just used the bath tub but I guess it would've been even worse.


----------



## oelkanne

any suggestions???tubing or so?....


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> any suggestions???tubing or so?....


Need closer look picture
though its looking good from far


----------



## oelkanne

if im back from my appointment like an houre...i coud post some more....thanks so far


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> That OC Force block is a complete ripoff of Mips! I love their style, will probably try to mirror it with my own little twist.


LOL what?









MIPS blocks were never single level, they were always more levels of POM and no stainless steel.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Aesthetically, make them non-chunky. I don't really know how to explain it but the EK board block for the OC Force is absolutely gorgeous. It is all the same height and just looks good. Also, a mixture of materials like POM and copper and you could design them so that if someone wanted an acrylic top, it would easy on your end to make one.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> That OC Force block is a complete ripoff of Mips! I love their style, will probably try to mirror it with my own little twist.
Click to expand...




















lolwut.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> That OC Force block is a complete ripoff of Mips! I love their style, will probably try to mirror it with my own little twist.
> 
> 
> 
> LOL what?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MIPS blocks were never single level, they were always more levels of POM and no stainless steel.
Click to expand...



true story.

That OC block looks really good too....

And where is my impact block?


----------



## derickwm

We haven't even got the board yet


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We haven't even got the board yet


http://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-maximus-vi-impact-intel-z87-s-1150-ddr3-sata-iii-6gb-s-sata-raid-pcie-30-%28x16%29-dp-hdmi-mini-itx

Just sayin'










I have mine already if you want a tester?


----------



## derickwm

Ah it's already on order, just whenever the post gets it here.

Not allowed to post photos but I think this bit of news is relevant to enough people here:

http://www.ekwb.com/news/385/19/Two-new-custom-PCB-GeForce-GTX-780-water-blocks-in-the-works/


----------



## briddell

I want a block for the 780 HOF, though. Pastel White on a nickel plated block with a white PCB. I would punch babies to get it.


----------



## derickwm

"Give an inch take a mile"


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-maximus-vi-impact-intel-z87-s-1150-ddr3-sata-iii-6gb-s-sata-raid-pcie-30-%28x16%29-dp-hdmi-mini-itx
> 
> Just sayin'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mine already if you want a tester?


Wow, I want to do a ITX rig just so I can use that board.


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Thanks for answering to part of my post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I wouldn't invest in two 1/4 sensors even if they weren't so expensive. I was expecting you lot knew about some cheap sensors like with LEDs but I guess I'll have to cash out 20€ then :/.
> 
> I know how to calculate Delta temps, I was wondering if it was done @idle or full load but I think somebody answered that and said you had to do it once the liquid's temp was stable (so not right after booting up).
> 
> As for opening the reservoir while the pump's running I guess I'll have to find out on my own since it looks like not a single one of you knows...
> 
> EDIT:
> So yes, you can remove a reservoir's cap while the pump is running without it overflowing which means that I've lost a lot of time when filling my loop. I used to fill the res, close it, run the pump and repeat until the loop was full... this means I could've just turned the pump on and poored the liquid into the reservoir until the loop was full
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> My Delta T° is between 4.7°C and 5.2°C so that just taught me there's nothing wrong with my loop and it's running great (Martin's liquid lab says 5°C is extreme performance, 10°C decent and 15°C bad or something like that).
> For the testing I used a single sensor which is why the reading can't be 100% accurate since I wasn't reading both temps at the same time and ambient may have changed. I booted the computer and used it for a good 30-45minutes and then ran IBT Maximum Ram / Xtreme Stress mode for five runs and wrote down the highest water T°.
> 
> Does anybody here have any experience with the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2's dust filters ? For the testing the top and side pannels were removed and so was the front dust filter / mesh thing and my CPU never went above 60°C (HWMonitor, RealTemp and HWiNFO64), last night with a 28°C ambient instead of ~22.5°C my max CPU temp under max / Xtreme IBT was 72°C with everything on the case.
> 
> EDIT:
> forget about the Arc Midi R2's dust filters, they were much filthier than they looked. I closed my bathroom's sink and ran water through the front dust filter + mesh and the water was full of dust. I couldn't do that with the top dust filter because it's way too big so I just used the bath tub but I guess it would've been even worse.






Sorry I totally forgot that part of your question, glad you found out. I actually leave the fill port open after the pump has been primed enough to not run dry at any point while I'm filling the loop. You don't want to have the pump run dry at any point. I cap it once Im ready to walk away to leak test.

If you add GPU's to your loop you should look at your coolant temps under heavy load, acrylic components start to deform if the fluid goes beyond 50C.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That looks pretty similar to the mips blocks for the Asus MVE if you ask me! I do like it though. I really ike the OC Force board also...nothin like a little overkill!!


EK has had that design way before MIPS. Both have their own unique aspects though.

By the way, it may not be super cost efficient, but making blocks on request would be incredible. I know so many people dying yo water cool their AMD boards but have no options. Even though Intel holds more of the enthusiast PC market, allowing the option of someone send their board to you and fabricating a waterblock would be awesome.

I don't own a CNC/Mill though, so that may be extremely difficult and impractical.


----------



## kcuestag

Not sure this has been posted or not, but I present you the most beautiful water cooling rig I've ever seen:




That thing is ART, I love the way he is routing the coolant!


----------



## WebsterXC

I think this was posted in one of Jeffinslaw's build logs, but it needed to be posted here. I agree; the ingenuity and acrylic work is just incredible.


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> EK has had that design way before MIPS. Both have their own unique aspects though.
> 
> By the way, it may not be super cost efficient, but making blocks on request would be incredible. I know so many people dying yo water cool their AMD boards but have no options. Even though Intel holds more of the enthusiast PC market, allowing the option of someone send their board to you and fabricating a waterblock would be awesome.
> 
> I don't own a CNC/Mill though, so that may be extremely difficult and impractical.


That is a pretty great idea; I may setup a site for people to contact me with their requests.


----------



## islandgam3r

Hey guys, which one would u go with and which cools better?

GTX 4GB ACX Supeclocked 770s with XSPC RAZOR full waterblock for each 770 @459.99 per card , 2 Razor waterblocks at 122.99 each plus TITAN back plates @30.00 each?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130945

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20925/ex-blc-1506/XSPC_Razor_GTX_770_Full_Coverage_VGA_Block_-_Reference_Design.html?tl=g30c311s2023&id=j8MGHiid#blank

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19433/ex-blc-1432/XSPC_Razor_GTX_Titan_780_770_Backplate_Full_Coverage_VGA_Backplate.html

OR

Buy the Classified Hydro Copper 770s @639.99 per card which includes compression fittings and comes with 770 backplate already?[/B]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130947

Please let me know wat u guys think. yessir.gif


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Not sure this has been posted or not, but I present you the most beautiful water cooling rig I've ever seen:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That thing is ART, I love the way he is routing the coolant!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1408451/project-n-v


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> New fans for me....when they actually appear.....
> 
> They will look good in the S3 i think....
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/Scythe-Grand-Flex-120,news-45073.html


I'm definitely interested to hear what your impressions of them are. I'm a little concerned about the SP stats of them... CFM is fine but between the gap around the edge and the notch near the hub, coupled with this statement in the press release:
Quote:


> The series also includes a new nine-bladed fan design with an indentation close to the center hub for _more focused and concentrated air flow_, a set of vibration dampers, and a 500 mm sleeved cable for use in larger enclosures.


I realize that I might be splitting hairs here, but that seems to be to be the opposite goal of a radiator fan (i.e. it should be attempting to maximize static pressure and _diffused_ air flow - not concentrating it in one spot). I'm sure they'll perform fine - but I'm guessing they will be better used as chassis fans - at least in comparison to the venerable GT's. Am I completely off-base on this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Aesthetically, make them non-chunky. I don't really know how to explain it but the EK board block for the OC Force is absolutely gorgeous. It is all the same height and just looks good. Also, a mixture of materials like POM and copper and you could design them so that if someone wanted an acrylic top, it would easy on your end to make one.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


THIS! And if you offered them in basic colors as well (yes I know you can just paint the POM tops - but if it's all throughout the material it's easier and nicer IMO) that would definitely be worth a 'luxury premium' to many on OCN.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> That OC Force block is a complete ripoff of Mips! I love their style, will probably try to mirror it with my own little twist.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Good luck, its a small market.
> 
> Clean looks are very popular now it seems. Square edges and flat surfaces are king. The EK block is not a rip off of the MIPS, where on earth did you get that conclusion from?


Totally not a ripoff of the MIPS block - the MIPS block is much more attractive!







Seriously though you can ignore that previous bit... I'm a MIPS fanboy through and through. Although EK is definitely much more accomplished at providing solutions for a much wider variety of hardware (and with a much more consistent look - like it or not).

To some extent though, aren't all blocks for the same board almost guaranteed to look very similar? At least assuming that they are all engineered _correctly_ for the purposes of optimally cooling the components that require it. It's not like there can really be much variation other than height, port placement, and materials. The blocks themselves should almost always be an _exact copy_ of each other - if not then someone is doing it wrong!


----------



## xenomorph113

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Not sure this has been posted or not, but I present you the most beautiful water cooling rig I've ever seen:





That thing is ART, I love the way he is routing the coolant!








jaw dropping is an understatement

WANT


----------



## MrGrievous

Does anyone know what the power draw for the COUGAR CF-V14HB Vortex fan is at 12v. I'm trying to figure out how many of these suckers I can safely run on the Aquacomputer aquaero 5 since each of the 4 fan headers can handle 1.65 amps? I've googled it and found a nice video of what I'm needing but it was for the 120mm version unfortunately.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Does anyone know what the power draw for the COUGAR CF-V14HB Vortex fan is at 12v. I'm trying to figure out how many of these suckers I can safely run on the Aquacomputer aquaero 5 since each of the 4 fan headers can handle 1.65 amps? I've googled it and found a nice video of what I'm needing but it was for the 120mm version unfortunately.


Looking at this picture I'd say 0.3 A


----------



## steelkevin

Do you lot use dust filters on your radiator fans or not ?

I've tested the Arc Midi R2's stock dust filters today and found out they increased CPU temps by 5-7°C.
Open the spoiler if you want to read about it:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



After 4 hours of testing split in two sessions of 2 hours each with an idle time of about on hour in between I have results on the impact of the Arc Midi's dust filters.
You have to take into account that I didn't remove just the dust filters so results could be influenced by the addition of the mesh too (top pannel and front magnetic mesh/filter).
The filters were cleaned and absolutely dust free.
The ambient temp remained between 25.9°C and 26.6°C throughout the entire testing.

*Without dust filters:*
-HWMonitor: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
-RealTemp: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
-HWiNFO64: 65° | 64° | 62° | 64°

*With dust filters:*
-HWMonitor: 71° | 70° | 66° | 70°
-RealTemp: 71° | 70° | 66° | 71°
-HWiNFO64: 70° | 70° | 67° | 71°

*Conclusion:* the use of the Arc Midi R2's stock Dust Filters increase CPU temperature by 5-7°C.

These results may vary depending on your setup. I have a front 280mm rad in push/pull pulling air into the case through the front dust filter and another 280mm in push pushing the air out through the top dust filter.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Looking at this picture I'd say 0.3 A
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1618955/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


O wow thank you, the thought of looking at the label sticker on the fan completely flew past my head lol +1 for the help


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> New fans for me....when they actually appear.....
> 
> They will look good in the S3 i think....
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/Scythe-Grand-Flex-120,news-45073.html
> 
> 
> 
> I'm definitely interested to hear what your impressions of them are. I'm a little concerned about the SP stats of them... CFM is fine but between the gap around the edge and the notch near the hub, coupled with this statement in the press release:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The series also includes a new nine-bladed fan design with an indentation close to the center hub for _more focused and concentrated air flow_, a set of vibration dampers, and a 500 mm sleeved cable for use in larger enclosures.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I realize that I might be splitting hairs here, but that seems to be to be the opposite goal of a radiator fan (i.e. it should be attempting to maximize static pressure and _diffused_ air flow - not concentrating it in one spot). I'm sure they'll perform fine - but I'm guessing they will be better used as chassis fans - at least in comparison to the venerable GT's. Am I completely off-base on this?
Click to expand...

If you see the airflow from a normal fan then focused airflow is a good thing.

Scythe specs are trustworthy,they dont inflate their figures (coolermaster,im looking at you here),what they say,they do.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Do you lot use dust filters on your radiator fans or not ?
> 
> I've tested the Arc Midi R2's stock dust filters today and found out they increased CPU temps by 5-7°C.
> Open the spoiler if you want to read about it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> After 4 hours of testing split in two sessions of 2 hours each with an idle time of about on hour in between I have results on the impact of the Arc Midi's dust filters.
> You have to take into account that I didn't remove just the dust filters so results could be influenced by the addition of the mesh too (top pannel and front magnetic mesh/filter).
> The filters were cleaned and absolutely dust free.
> The ambient temp remained between 25.9°C and 26.6°C throughout the entire testing.
> 
> *Without dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -RealTemp: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -HWiNFO64: 65° | 64° | 62° | 64°
> 
> *With dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 71° | 70° | 66° | 70°
> -RealTemp: 71° | 70° | 66° | 71°
> -HWiNFO64: 70° | 70° | 67° | 71°
> 
> *Conclusion:* the use of the Arc Midi R2's stock Dust Filters increase CPU temperature by 5-7°C.
> 
> These results may vary depending on your setup. I have a front 280mm rad in push/pull pulling out into the case through the front dust filter and another 280mm in push pushing the air out through the top dust filter.


I use a dust filter on the fans for my bottom rad. This is very good information and thank you for posting it.









Now that I think about it, I've got a Data Vac so I really don't know why I bother using dust filters in the first place.


----------



## mxthunder

took some outdoor pics today

still debating the green tubing


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I use a dust filter on the fans for my bottom rad. This is very good information and thank you for posting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I think about it, I've got a Data Vac so I really don't know why I bother using dust filters in the first place.


So you don't have to DATA vac as much!

Also, if you wanna live dangerously...use the data vac without it's filter!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> took some outdoor pics today
> 
> still debating the green tubing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not sure what you mean by "green tubing", I'm assuming you're thinking of switching the tubing, but honestly man that build looks stellar as-is - don't change a thing!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Temps quite high @4.3GHz. Does running BF3 at large resolution causing the CPU to run a lot harder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing ambient around 29 - 30C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine max at 62C @4.5GHz in 31C ambient with H100 but BF3 is 1080p only.


Yes. These 3820's definitely get warmer running in surround. My ambient is around 26-27C in this room. But rises a few when gaming for an hour or more.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I use a dust filter on the fans for my bottom rad. This is very good information and thank you for posting it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I think about it, I've got a Data Vac so I really don't know why I bother using dust filters in the first place.


You're welcome







.

I don't think my results are quite relevant to your situation though. If you've googled pictures of the Arc Midi R2's dust filters you already know this but they're nothing like "normal" dust filters (like those that came with my NZXT Phantom which are probably the same as your Switch'es). They're a bit like some sort of thick black foam / sponge.

EDIT: Here's what they look like. As you can see they're no where near what you usually see.


And a last one:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Do you lot use dust filters on your radiator fans or not ?
> 
> I've tested the Arc Midi R2's stock dust filters today and found out they increased CPU temps by 5-7°C.
> Open the spoiler if you want to read about it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> After 4 hours of testing split in two sessions of 2 hours each with an idle time of about on hour in between I have results on the impact of the Arc Midi's dust filters.
> You have to take into account that I didn't remove just the dust filters so results could be influenced by the addition of the mesh too (top pannel and front magnetic mesh/filter).
> The filters were cleaned and absolutely dust free.
> The ambient temp remained between 25.9°C and 26.6°C throughout the entire testing.
> 
> *Without dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -RealTemp: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -HWiNFO64: 65° | 64° | 62° | 64°
> 
> *With dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 71° | 70° | 66° | 70°
> -RealTemp: 71° | 70° | 66° | 71°
> -HWiNFO64: 70° | 70° | 67° | 71°
> 
> *Conclusion:* the use of the Arc Midi R2's stock Dust Filters increase CPU temperature by 5-7°C.
> 
> These results may vary depending on your setup. I have a front 280mm rad in push/pull pulling air into the case through the front dust filter and another 280mm in push pushing the air out through the top dust filter.


I use the stock filters in the front and bottom intakes of my case (Bottom has a Monsta 240mm rad) and I also added 3 Silverstone Magnetic 140mm filters on the top as my 420mm radiator is intaking from the top.

Prevents from ANY dust getting into the case and I didn't notice any temperature increase. These Silverstone filters are quite good, not too restrictive but they keep ALL dust out of the case.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Not sure what you mean by "green tubing", I'm assuming you're thinking of switching the tubing, but honestly man that build looks stellar as-is - don't change a thing!


i agree. it looks good as is. only thing i would do is try to hide the long runs to the drive bays a little. gpu to drive bay, i would go into and out of the basemant with bulkheads. and maybe some angles on the res/pump to rad to help with the "sag" of the lines. maybe acrylic? but again, it looks great the way it is.


----------



## APhamX

Dear watercooling gods.
I have a 650d.
I'm looking at the Photon 270 as a reservoir.

These are my planned parts.


How hard would it be to mount a tube reservoir?
Black or silver compression fittings for white tubes 
Also, is there an alternative to that pump, that one is quite a hefty price.

Also I was looking into the ek280, not sure how much of a difference a 240mm vs 280mm would be.

This will be a cpu loop ONLY for now, then later I'll add my 7870xt cf into the loop with a 120mm rear rad.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> Dear watercooling gods.
> I have a 650d.
> I'm looking at the Photon 270 as a reservoir.
> 
> These are my planned parts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How hard would it be to mount a tube reservoir?
> Black or silver compression fittings for white tubes
> Also, is there an alternative to that pump, that one is quite a hefty price.
> 
> Also I was looking into the ek280, not sure how much of a difference a 240mm vs 280mm would be.
> 
> This will be a cpu loop ONLY for now, then later I'll add my 7870xt cf into the loop with a 120mm rear rad.


You can replace the pump by an MCP350, MCP355, MCP35X, or any other DDC variant, they're all good pumps.

A 280mm rad in theory is quite a bit better than a 240mm one:
-120*120*2= 28800
-140*140*2= 39200

A 280 has almost as much surface as a 360:
-120*120*3= 43200

But then you've got to take into account thikness, fpi, etc... and some people don't bother with 140mm radiators because of the "poor" selection of fans you can pick from as opposed to 120mm radiators.

EDIT: sorry, didn't realize the DDC variants were so expensive in the US.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you see the airflow from a normal fan then focused airflow is a good thing.
> 
> Scythe specs are trustworthy,they dont inflate their figures (coolermaster,im looking at you here),what they say,they do.


I've seen the smoke turbulence demos if that's what you mean. And I'm not questioning their specs - I agree that they are very honest in their specs... however, that's where my problem lies.

I can't seem to find anywhere that they actually specify what the tested (or theoretical for that matter) pa/mmH2O specs are for the GTs so it's nearly impossible to determine (they provide an almost useless P/Q curve chart for the multiple varieties however). Thankfully on the new fans they do provide this information - despite tom's not bothering to publish it in the article you linked. The two that are the easiest to compare are of course the D1225C12B2AP-12 and the SM1225GF12SL as they are both 800RPM fans so it's (at least in theory) an apples to apples comparison.

Airflow is easy, the GT puts in a figure of 48 m³/h (28.25 CFM) vs. the Grand Flex's 51.8 m³/h (30.5 CFM) - here the GFlex wins (although at 18dBA vs 9dBA for the GT - sone ratings unavailable for either). Despite generally agreeing with your assessment of their stats validity... I question whether or not they tested these in a completely inert anechoic chamber to measure values this _ridiculously low_ in both cases.

As far as pressure is concerned this is more difficult. The GFlex is listed at 0.53 mmH²O / 5.20 Pa and the closest thing I can find for the GT would be taken from the chart - which would put the highest Pa at just over 5 (is it more than .2 over or not... who knows?).

The question I have however, is whether or not directional airflow is of any benefit against a radiator. It seems to me that the very idea of using spacers, gaskets, etc... is based around maximizing pressure and dispersing airflow more (i.e. making sure that air is flowing equally through all of the fins opposite the fan) in order to avoid dead spaces or inefficient/uneven dissipation. I'm not debating whether or not these new fans will be fantastic for general cooling - I love my S-Flex's and I know I'll like these too. However, I've seen poor performance generally using the S-Flex fans on radiators... so I'm wondering whether or not this is also the case with the new ones.

Based on the specs I would guess these fans have at least similar if not slightly superior pressure to the GT's - but as I can't compare equal specs unfortunately that's purely conjecture on my part.


----------



## Egami

Horror of the day. Is there anything I, or anyone, can do about this?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Sand it down? metal polish?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Horror of the day. Is there anything I, or anyone, can do about this?


As dmanstasiu said, sand it down.
I didn't want to bother figuring out how to clean my CPU waterblock so I just sanded it down too


----------



## Egami

Won't that remove the nickel plating and expose the copper?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Won't that remove the nickel plating and expose the copper?


That was my first thought as well... I'd definitely try just metal polish for at least a few runs before moving to sanding.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you see the airflow from a normal fan then focused airflow is a good thing.
> 
> Scythe specs are trustworthy,they dont inflate their figures (coolermaster,im looking at you here),what they say,they do.
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen the smoke turbulence demos if that's what you mean. And I'm not questioning their specs - I agree that they are very honest in their specs... however, that's where my problem lies.
> 
> I can't seem to find anywhere that they actually specify what the tested (or theoretical for that matter) pa/mmH2O specs are for the GTs so it's nearly impossible to determine (they provide an almost useless P/Q curve chart for the multiple varieties however). Thankfully on the new fans they do provide this information - despite tom's not bothering to publish it in the article you linked. The two that are the easiest to compare are of course the D1225C12B2AP-12 and the SM1225GF12SL as they are both 800RPM fans so it's (at least in theory) an apples to apples comparison.
> 
> Airflow is easy, the GT puts in a figure of 48 m³/h (28.25 CFM) vs. the Grand Flex's 51.8 m³/h (30.5 CFM) - here the GFlex wins (although at 18dBA vs 9dBA for the GT - sone ratings unavailable for either). Despite generally agreeing with your assessment of their stats validity... I question whether or not they tested these in a completely inert anechoic chamber to measure values this _ridiculously low_ in both cases.
> 
> As far as pressure is concerned this is more difficult. The GFlex is listed at 0.53 mmH²O / 5.20 Pa and the closest thing I can find for the GT would be taken from the chart - which would put the highest Pa at just over 5 (is it more than .2 over or not... who knows?).
> 
> The question I have however, is whether or not directional airflow is of any benefit against a radiator. It seems to me that the very idea of using spacers, gaskets, etc... is based around maximizing pressure and dispersing airflow more (i.e. making sure that air is flowing equally through all of the fins opposite the fan) in order to avoid dead spaces or inefficient/uneven dissipation. I'm not debating whether or not these new fans will be fantastic for general cooling - I love my S-Flex's and I know I'll like these too. However, I've seen poor performance generally using the S-Flex fans on radiators... so I'm wondering whether or not this is also the case with the new ones.
> 
> Based on the specs I would guess these fans have at least similar if not slightly superior pressure to the GT's - but as I can't compare equal specs unfortunately that's purely conjecture on my part.
Click to expand...

These are more aimed at minimizing the dead spot behind the motor hub..at least that what im thinking,will know more when they release them.

Dont base the performance of one fan against another of a very different design.


----------



## APhamX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> You can replace the pump by an MCP350, MCP355, MCP35X, or any other DDC variant, they're all good pumps.
> 
> A 280mm rad in theory is quite a bit better than a 240mm one:
> -120*120*2= 28800
> -140*140*2= 39200
> 
> A 280 has almost as much surface as a 360:
> -120*120*3= 43200
> 
> But then you've got to take into account thikness, fpi, etc... and some people don't bother with 140mm radiators because of the "poor" selection of fans you can pick from as opposed to 120mm radiators.
> 
> EDIT: sorry, didn't realize the DDC variants were so expensive in the US.


I guess I'll mod my case a bit to fit the 280mm then, that being said. Do you think an extra 15 dollars is worth it for a pump speed controller? Or I probably won't end up touching it.

Also would these be ok fans for a pull? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Edition-CO-9050008-WW/dp/B007RESFYK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376943638&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair+140mm+fan

Edit: It appears that corsair doesn't have 140mm performance edition fans, so I guess I'll go with these http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Edition-Single-CO-9050009-WW/dp/B007RESGGC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376943836&sr=8-1&keywords=AF140

Edit Edit: These fans are meant for air flow, not static pressure..


----------



## steelkevin

haha slow down there xD.

If I were you I'd wait for second opinions before taking the wrong decision ^^. I barely know anything about fans and radiators, I just said what made sense to me







. Sorry I guess.

As for the extra $15 for that D5 I'm sure nobody (or atleast barely anybody) here will tell you to save those $15. I won't either, I've only ever had an MCP350 which works great but in France those cost around 50€ brand new where one of those D5s could cost twice that amount which is why I suggested the DDC variants in the first place but then I checked on fronzencpu and saw the cost of those in the US.


----------



## MrGrievous

Well, I'm back with another question.I want to know if one D5 pump be enough for 840mm of rad two gpu and a cpu? I feel it'll be a lil under-powered.


----------



## lootbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Well, I'm back with another question.I want to know if one D5 pump be enough for 840mm of rad two gpu and a cpu? I feel it'll be a lil under-powered.


I ran a single D5 vario for (1) CPU, (2) GPU and 720 of high restriction radiators.
It was not a problem, did not even have to run the pump at max.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Well, I'm back with another question.I want to know if one D5 pump be enough for 840mm of rad two gpu and a cpu? I feel it'll be a lil under-powered.


That's pretty much exactly what I have on a D5, 840 mm rads, cpu, gpu and a motherboard block. Works fine.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Horror of the day. Is there anything I, or anyone, can do about this?


Yes! Metal Polish.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahRnDvh4j4I

I have used this stuff on all kinds of plate. Don't sweat it.

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-91048-Marine-PowerMetal/dp/B00144COBO/ref=sr_1_1?srs=2596858011&ie=UTF8&qid=1376944920&sr=8-1&keywords=Mothers+Marine+Metal+Polish


----------



## APhamX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> haha slow down there xD.
> 
> If I were you I'd wait for second opinions before taking the wrong decision ^^. I barely know anything about fans and radiators, I just said what made sense to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Sorry I guess.
> 
> As for the extra $15 for that D5 I'm sure nobody (or atleast barely anybody) here will tell you to save those $15. I won't either, I've only ever had an MCP350 which works great but in France those cost around 50€ brand new where one of those D5s could cost twice that amount which is why I suggested the DDC variants in the first place but then I checked on fronzencpu and saw the cost of those in the US.


Haha, I know. I've been posting in the watercooling forums for the past two weeks, but I can't get a straightforward answer. I really need/want a watercooling loop right now, the stock cooler on my 4770k isn't cutting it as it's hitting 90-100C while rendering videos.


----------



## steelkevin

Wow, sorry to whoever mentioned the XSPC temperature sensors, seeing as they're XSPC branded I figured they'd be even more expensive than the random ones (only ones available in France) that cost 16€. But I was entirely mistaken.
I had no idea specialtech did internationnal shipping either !

Is anybody here aware of their stocks ? I want to order this one but it's out of stock.



I'll order an ambient version too whenever the water one is in stock


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Yes! Metal Polish.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahRnDvh4j4I
> 
> I have used this stuff on all kinds of plate. Don't sweat it.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-91048-Marine-PowerMetal/dp/B00144COBO/ref=sr_1_1?srs=2596858011&ie=UTF8&qid=1376944920&sr=8-1&keywords=Mothers+Marine+Metal+Polish


The youtube demo was impressive. As the nickel coating is really thin (I presume?) and the stains look to be running way deep is there how big of a possibility I'll end up rubbing off the coating? Naturally the rest of the block is shiny example of perfection and only the top looks like diarrhea.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> I guess I'll mod my case a bit to fit the 280mm then, that being said. Do you think an extra 15 dollars is worth it for a pump speed controller? Or I probably won't end up touching it.
> 
> Also would these be ok fans for a pull? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Edition-CO-9050008-WW/dp/B007RESFYK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376943638&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair+140mm+fan
> 
> Edit: It appears that corsair doesn't have 140mm performance edition fans, so I guess I'll go with these http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Edition-Single-CO-9050009-WW/dp/B007RESGGC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376943836&sr=8-1&keywords=AF140
> 
> Edit Edit: These fans are meant for air flow, not static pressure..


Woah, wait before you jump into the 280mm rad and modding your case........

Three main things for Radiator efficiency:

1) Radiator surface area
2) Air flow across the radiator fans
3) Water flow through the radiator

Point 3 will be roughly the same between a 240 and 280, so don't worry about that.

point (1): The surface area of a 280 is greater than the 240, yes. You must take into account the FPI, but, let's assume those are the same for now.

point (2): 120mm fan vs 140mm fan, in terms of air flow through the radiator. Typically, 120mm fans win the category, however, 140mm fans are quieter, however.

Overall, I doubt that you will see a big difference between the two (1-2 deg C max...perhaps worse than the 240rad). If you can fit the 240 without modding the case, then I'd go with that. If you can fit a 280 and can find decent fans, then maybe give it a shot, but I would not mod the case to add it unless you really want to do it, lol


----------



## lowfat

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4024-1.jpg.html


----------



## Sunreeper

Ohhhhhh my that colour scheme


----------



## APhamX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Woah, wait before you jump into the 280mm rad and modding your case........
> 
> Three main things for Radiator efficiency:
> 
> 1) Radiator surface area
> 2) Air flow across the radiator fans
> 3) Water flow through the radiator
> 
> Point 3 will be roughly the same between a 240 and 280, so don't worry about that.
> 
> point (1): The surface area of a 280 is greater than the 240, yes. You must take into account the FPI, but, let's assume those are the same for now.
> 
> point (2): 120mm fan vs 140mm fan, in terms of air flow through the radiator. Typically, 120mm fans win the category, however, 140mm fans are quieter, however.
> 
> Overall, I doubt that you will see a big difference between the two (1-2 deg C max...perhaps worse than the 240rad). If you can fit the 240 without modding the case, then I'd go with that. If you can fit a 280 and can find decent fans, then maybe give it a shot, but I would not mod the case to add it unless you really want to do it, lol


Well the "mod" would be to widen two holes a couple mm so I can screw it. I can't find really high performance 140mm fans. I guess I can save myself the hassle and go with the ex240 instead with 2x corsair performance fans in pull.


----------



## Sunreeper

Just a heads up corsair is considering making 140mm sp fans so you could always wait a little


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> Well the "mod" would be to widen two holes a couple mm so I can screw it. I can't find really high performance 140mm fans. I guess I can save myself the hassle and go with the ex240 instead with 2x corsair performance fans in pull.


I think it is more drilling new holes rather than 'widening a hole a couple mm'. 120mm fans have a 105mm distance between screw holes and 140mm fans have a 125mm distance between screw holes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Just a heads up corsair is considering making 140mm sp fans so you could always wait a little


True...and this could be a game changer in the 120mm vs 140mm match


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Wow, sorry to whoever mentioned the XSPC temperature sensors, seeing as they're XSPC branded I figured they'd be even more expensive than the random ones (only ones available in France) that cost 16€. But I was entirely mistaken.
> I had no idea specialtech did internationnal shipping either !
> 
> Is anybody here aware of their stocks ? I want to order this one but it's out of stock.
> 
> I'll order an ambient version too whenever the water one is in stock


still available here http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/flow-temp-meters/temp-meters/xspc-lcd-display-temperature-sensor-white-v2-g1-4-plug-sensor.html


----------



## thestache

Good to see EK stepping up and committing to a GTX 780 classified and lightning block.


----------



## briddell

GPU with only a single 6 pin connector? I though you had 780s.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> GPU with only a single 6 pin connector? I though you had 780s.


click on "hide details". Click the down arrow below "CMS83X MK3". Its his dual lga2011 build. By his specs, its a 650 Ti


----------



## Daredevil 720

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=17952

Would I be able to dip this into the reservoir and get my coolant's temp?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=17952
> 
> Would I be able to dip this into the reservoir and get my coolant's temp?


Well you _could_ but I wouldn't recommend it. It would be better to use one of THESE for that purpose.

Note the breadcrumbs of the product indicated:
Quote:


> Home :: Monitoring :: Temperature Monitoring :: Air Temperature Monitors


----------



## pc-illiterate

you mean a complete unit like this
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-14-Thread-Temperature-Sensor-with-Blue-LCD-V2-pid-17940.html


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> New titan's waterblock from Bitspower:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice to see BP steeping up with those beauty


----------



## szeged

I like that top bitspower block, if only it came in nickle. Also, im not a fan of their inlet and outlet design really, i like the option the EK link/bridge gives over just crystal link really.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=17952
> 
> Would I be able to dip this into the reservoir and get my coolant's temp?


So, theoretically, yes. As long as the wires aren't in the fluid.

Should you? No. You would have a hard time getting a sealed system with this solution. They make G 1/4" plugs that you can just put into an extra inlet or something (your GPU blocks will often have an extra) or add a manifold for it or something.

there are also in-line sensors that you can just connect anywhere in your tube routes.

I believe those XSPC displays expect 10k ohm thermistor [needs some verification], so any of the sensors that are 10k ohm you could always put a connector on and use with the display.


----------



## protzman

Does anyone know if ek plans to make a dual ddc pump top? Preferably without the res built in? tired if this swiftech pump top and there are 0 ways to mount this MCP35x2 anywhere but sitting flat!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Does anyone know if ek plans to make a dual ddc pump top? Preferably without the res built in? tired if this swiftech pump top and there are 0 ways to mount this MCP35x2 anywhere but sitting flat!


Been wondering the same thing..


----------



## protzman

thank you, glad im not the only one! I would just get one of their old current ones but i dont want that hole for the reservoir to be in the top i just want it to be flat like this one:


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Does anyone know if ek plans to make a dual ddc pump top? Preferably without the res built in? tired if this swiftech pump top and there are 0 ways to mount this MCP35x2 anywhere but sitting flat!


This doesnt work? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-ddc-dual-top-v-2-g1-4-black-acetal.html

Or did you want the acrylic?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This doesnt work? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-ddc-dual-top-v-2-g1-4-black-acetal.html
> 
> Or did you want the acrylic?


That's one of their old ones I believe with a hole for a res. It would just be nice if they made a flat CSQ or Clean CSQ top - and without the hole in the top for the res.


----------



## protzman

yeah what james said, just a flat one w/o the hole (as i first said) btw james; just looked over your 900d and i was thinking of doing what you did with your pumps but in such a small case (my caselabs mercury s3) it seems impossible to have that sort of setup!


----------



## briddell

On the subject of DDC tops, if you have the option to get one, Petra's tops are great, both aesthetically, and in terms of quality of construction.


----------



## fakeblood

New toys arrived yesterday









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00557_zps9600a7b0.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00575_zpse008884a.jpg.html


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> The youtube demo was impressive. As the nickel coating is really thin (I presume?) and the stains look to be running way deep is there how big of a possibility I'll end up rubbing off the coating? Naturally the rest of the block is shiny example of perfection and only the top looks like diarrhea.


You won't rub anything off... you just use a little on a microfiber cloth and make little circles until you start seeing the ugly go away. Then polish it off with the dry side of the cloth. I like to use a little water when I take it off, then buff it nice and shiny with the dry microfiber.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> You won't rub anything off... you just use a little on a microfiber cloth and make little circles until you start seeing the ugly go away. Then polish it off with the dry side of the cloth. I like to use a little water when I take it off, then buff it nice and shiny with the dry microfiber.


Righto. I shall give it a go and will report back with the results. Pre-emptive rep to your good sir o7


----------



## protzman

is a cyclone going into your pump? I just moved my comp from the floor to desk and noticed from the bottom of my bitspower res that has a 'anti' cyclone fitting there is a cyclone -_____-

what do?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Some new goodies











One seriously heavy CPU block










Some seriously small pumps and res.


Pitty the card looks so nice. I don't plan on letting this card ever smell the air.


But I may order the free EVGA back plate, just because I can


----------



## fakeblood

How much of a performance hit is to be expected running a loop parallel rather than series?


----------



## ChaosAD

Anyone know where in uk i can find the UT60 480 available and at a good price? Everywhere seems to be out of stock. I found it at highflow.nl at 104 euros but shipping is killing me, while from uk i ll have a friend buy it for me.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> How much of a performance hit is to be expected running a loop parallel rather than series?


Check this out
http://www.overclock.net/t/519131/series-versus-parallel-liquid-cooling-loops

My personal opinion?
The difference is negligible unless you're really a bench marking enthusiast
My ocd just couldn't stand _one_ tube/connector running between the two cards, or something like how the loop look on EK bridge serial edition one

for me WC is all about aesthetic


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Check this out
> http://www.overclock.net/t/519131/series-versus-parallel-liquid-cooling-loops
> 
> My personal opinion?
> The difference is negligible unless you're really a bench marking enthusiast
> My ocd just couldn't stand _one_ tube/connector running between the two cards, or something like how the loop look on EK bridge serial edition one
> 
> for me WC is all about aesthetic


+rep

Thanks for the link bud. Will have a good read through it


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> How much of a performance hit is to be expected running a loop parallel rather than series?
> 
> 
> 
> Check this out
> http://www.overclock.net/t/519131/series-versus-parallel-liquid-cooling-loops
> 
> My personal opinion?
> The difference is negligible unless you're really a bench marking enthusiast
> My ocd just couldn't stand _one_ tube/connector running between the two cards, or something like how the loop look on EK bridge serial edition one
> 
> for me WC is all about aesthetic
Click to expand...

I have tested this debate with the current quad GPU build. Part of what i found is that parallel makes a significant difference when running three and four GPU setups, HOWEVER, I also found that there are so many different fluid and air dynamics that can change the result that I would not personally make a blanket statement or recommendation based on my experience.
I have found that one mistake that many people make is writing off parallel (or finding little to no difference) because they do not understand the amount of flow that it takes to feed the water jackets of four GPU waterblocks without air being trapped or sitting in them. I have 4 x D5 pumps in my rig and removing the development of air pockets increased cooling of my GPU's by 6c. This of course is something I can only claim for my system with 5 rads, 4 x pumps, 4 x GPU's etc.
Change any of those dynamics and the results change. For anyone serious about water-cooling, I highly recommend trying it both ways, it is very educational lesson in fluid/cooling/ heat dissipation dynamics.


----------



## derickwm

As a heads up we will now be making a full board block for the Gigabyte G1.Sniper 5 motherboard


----------



## JohnnyEars

@ derickwm is there any thoughts about a motherboard block for the MSI Z87-GD65-GAMING?


----------



## derickwm

Unfortunately we don't plan on making a block for that motherboard  the MSI Mpower will most likely receive blocks though.


----------



## joejoe69

More black 'n blue for ya...

-Neptune


----------



## derickwm

Not really a fan of how you routed the GPU power cables, other than that it looks great.


----------



## kingchris

^^ nice build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Unfortunately we don't plan on making a block for that motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the MSI Mpower will most likely receive blocks though.


ummm........


----------



## derickwm

For Z87


----------



## vaapukkamehu

Hey,

Could somebody point out the differences between Swiftech MCP35X and EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pumps?

EK released a new res/pump combo with the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump included and that would be about 20€ (26.67$) cheaper than buying the normal top/res combo and the MCP35X pump.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> More black 'n blue for ya...
> 
> -Neptune
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This so made its way straight into the modpr0n folder.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaapukkamehu*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Could somebody point out the differences between Swiftech MCP35X and EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pumps?
> 
> EK released a new res/pump combo with the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump included and that would be about 20€ (26.67$) cheaper than buying the normal top/res combo and the MCP35X pump.


Not sure about the difference but on top of the price difference you'd be voiding your warranty by slapping your proposed top/res on the MCP35X


----------



## derickwm

O.O


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> is a cyclone going into your pump? I just moved my comp from the floor to desk and noticed from the bottom of my bitspower res that has a 'anti' cyclone fitting there is a cyclone -_____-
> 
> what do?


I removed the little anti cyclone fitting from the bottom of my BP res, and I'm just using a sponge that came with a small 40mm BP res I never ended up using.


----------



## signalpuke

Anyone using the Aquacomputer AMS radiators with integrated pump? How do they perform, and how large are they with the pump on?
I assume two 420mm radiators would do fine, with one using an integrated D5 pump.


----------



## Egami

derickwm you seriously saying you don't have a folder with all the cookiest builds' final shots that you open every so often to drool over, hoping that one day you'd be like Them?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Wow, sorry to whoever mentioned the XSPC temperature sensors, seeing as they're XSPC branded I figured they'd be even more expensive than the random ones (only ones available in France) that cost 16€. But I was entirely mistaken.
> I had no idea specialtech did internationnal shipping either !
> 
> Is anybody here aware of their stocks ? I want to order this one but it's out of stock.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll order an ambient version too whenever the water one is in stock


That is the exact one that I'm using on my setup, I have two of them and didn't find them expensive. I even have them mounted on their temp display on the front of the case.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> derickwm you seriously saying you don't have a folder with all the cookiest builds' final shots that you open every so often to drool over, hoping that one day you'd be like Them?


As an EK employee it's not really necessary


----------



## Dragoon

Hey guys.

Got some fan question. Looking into some fans for a Phobya 400, getting 4 for push pull...

I'm currently in between BitFenix Spectre 200mm white for £9.59 each and the Yate Loon D22SL-12H, which I found a pretty good deal for £7.18 each .

First thing... Are the 220mm Yate Loon compatible with the Phobya 400? And lastly, which ones are better? I've heard very well about Yate Loons, but only from their 120mm fans... regarding bigger ones not really.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> Got some fan question. Looking into some fans for a Phobya 400, getting 4 for push pull...
> 
> I'm currently in between BitFenix Spectre 200mm white for £9.59 each and the Yate Loon D22SL-12H, which I found a pretty good deal for £7.18 each .
> 
> First thing... Are the 220mm Yate Loon compatible with the Phobya 400? And lastly, which ones are better? I've heard very well about Yate Loons, but only from their 120mm fans... regarding bigger ones not really.


using the fans on a radiator? or just in general?


----------



## minicooper1

new main and ram...... ALL LIQUID!!!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> Got some fan question. Looking into some fans for a Phobya 400, getting 4 for push pull...
> 
> I'm currently in between BitFenix Spectre 200mm white for £9.59 each and the Yate Loon D22SL-12H, which I found a pretty good deal for £7.18 each .
> 
> First thing... Are the 220mm Yate Loon compatible with the Phobya 400? And lastly, which ones are better? I've heard very well about Yate Loons, but only from their 120mm fans... regarding bigger ones not really.


I'd get a pair of Silverstone AP182s.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> new main and ram...... ALL LIQUID!!!!


grats on your formula board, its a really high quality board if youre into extreme overclocking or just general use, be careful though, the included waterblock is made from aluminum, though it does have a protective coating on it to fight galvanic corrosion. The coating should help but there is always a chance it could get scratched or wear off, so id check every now and then just incase









i had a formula for about a week, sent it back to stick with my hero because i dont need all the super extreme overclock features the formula put on for the extra money







spent it on a second 4770k to compare to my first one


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> Got some fan question. Looking into some fans for a Phobya 400, getting 4 for push pull...
> 
> I'm currently in between BitFenix Spectre 200mm white for £9.59 each and the Yate Loon D22SL-12H, which I found a pretty good deal for £7.18 each .
> 
> First thing... Are the 220mm Yate Loon compatible with the Phobya 400? And lastly, which ones are better? I've heard very well about Yate Loons, but only from their 120mm fans... regarding bigger ones not really.


Great link for fan performance on rads. They use a number of the popular ones on there.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As a heads up we will now be making a full board block for the Gigabyte G1.Sniper 5 motherboard


I have to admit I'm excited about that, Im already looking at a dual D5 pump top to switch out my current integrated res pump combo . Little by little my setup is turning in to a full EK setup.


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> the MSI Mpower will most likely receive blocks though.


*derickwm* Mpower or Mpower Max?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> the MSI Mpower will most likely receive blocks though.
> 
> 
> 
> *derickwm* Mpower or Mpower Max?
Click to expand...

Should be a universal block that fits both but can't say for sure as it's too early and we haven't seen the detailed PCB yet.


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> using the fans on a radiator? or just in general?


To use on a Phobya xtreme 400
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd get a pair of Silverstone AP182s.


Damn! Those fans look really good, and I've seen the video demoing them. But they are ridiculously expensive. I can buy a couple Spectres or all 4 D22S' for the price of one AP182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Great link for fan performance on rads. They use a number of the popular ones on there.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/


Of course!







I'll check it out ASAP.










EDIT: Also, please do recommend other fans around the same price as the Spectres or the YL D22S


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Hey guys,
Is swifttech hydrx worth using?
Got some for $2 at microcenter today so I figured I might as well buy it instead of going back for it later if it turns out to be good.
Thanks!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Is swifttech hydrx worth using?
> Got some for $2 at microcenter today so I figured I might as well buy it instead of going back for it later if it turns out to be good.
> Thanks!


Why not?








no such thing as bad coolant as far as I know, theyre just distilled water with biocide, coloring and anti static


----------



## oelkanne

leak testing in a few minites


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> new main and ram...... ALL LIQUID!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grats on your formula board, its a really high quality board if youre into extreme overclocking or just general use, be careful though, the included waterblock is made from aluminum, though it does have a protective coating on it to fight galvanic corrosion. The coating should help but there is always a chance it could get scratched or wear off, so id check every now and then just incase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had a formula for about a week, sent it back to stick with my hero because i dont need all the super extreme overclock features the formula put on for the extra money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spent it on a second 4770k to compare to my first one
Click to expand...

That's a scary thought. I'm really surprised that the block is aluminum on such a high end board. I assume it's also possible to run it as passive for air right, it would explain why it is aluminum though. I understand want to pass the saving on to the consumer but with this hobby being as overkill as it is some times the extra $25-50 might not be missed for a copper block.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> That's a scary thought. I'm really surprised that the block is aluminum on such a high end board. I assume it's also possible to run it as passive for air right, it would explain why it is aluminum though. I understand want to pass the saving on to the consumer but with this hobby being as overkill as it is some times the extra $25-50 might not be missed for a copper block.


yeah it is pretty weird that they would opt for it to be aluminum over copper, but then theres always EK blocks. Yes it can be used for air cooling as well though. I just dont like the fact that they feature the crosschillX waterblock on the formula as one of the main features, and forget to mention that it is aluminum instead of copper. what if someone accidentally scratched the coating, and didnt give any attention to it thinking it was copper and not aluminum. There goes the rest of their loop.


----------



## derickwm

We'll have a block coming for it in the coming weeks.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We'll have a block coming for it in the coming weeks.


wheres that hero/extreme block! <3 patiently waiting to finish my acrylic loop, just missing the hero block and PPC to get more EK ram blocks


----------



## protzman

@ Derick - any plans in making a gtx 680 replacement top thats acetal like the new titan blocks? I feel like the 680 kinda got forgotten since the new stuff came out and not all people can go and fork out ANOTHER 1000 bucks for a new gpu, but i would sure like to just do a little reboot of my build ( like buy clean black supremacy top / clean black ram monarch top / clean black 680 block ).

I think alot of people would be interested in this and it should be considered (maybe in low quantities even) because its like you already have the design in the computer just remove the circles from the old csq blocks and bam!

lemme know


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We'll have a block coming for it in the coming weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> wheres that hero/extreme block! <3 patiently waiting to finish my acrylic loop, just missing the hero block and PPC to get more EK ram blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's in production.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> @ Derick - any plans in making a gtx 680 replacement top thats acetal like the new titan blocks? I feel like the 680 kinda got forgotten since the new stuff came out and not all people can go and fork out ANOTHER 1000 bucks for a new gpu, but i would sure like to just do a little reboot of my build ( like buy clean black supremacy top / clean black ram monarch top / clean black 680 block ).
> 
> I think alot of people would be interested in this and it should be considered (maybe in low quantities even) because its like you already have the design in the computer just remove the circles from the old csq blocks and bam!
> 
> lemme know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## protzman

well dang..


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Any plans for a new universal southbridge block for Z77/Z87 boards? Kinda like what you guys used to do for older generation boards?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> new main and ram...... ALL LIQUID!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grats on your formula board, its a really high quality board if youre into extreme overclocking or just general use, be careful though, the included *waterblock is made from aluminum*, though it does have a protective coating on it to fight galvanic corrosion. The coating should help but there is always a chance it could get scratched or wear off, so id check every now and then just incase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had a formula for about a week, sent it back to stick with my hero because i dont need all the super extreme overclock features the formula put on for the extra money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spent it on a second 4770k to compare to my first one
Click to expand...

No it isnt.

Its has a copper waterchannel,no alu is in contact with water.

Where did you get that from?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> well dang..


We keep busy enough with trying to keep up with all the newest GPUs and Motherboards, no time to make stuff for older products.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Any plans for a new universal southbridge block for Z77/Z87 boards? Kinda like what you guys used to do for older generation boards?


All major Z87 boards are pretty different and we're not too fond of making blocks for Z77/Z87 southbridge there isn't a high demand for them.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No it isnt.
> 
> Its has a copper waterchannel,no alu is in contact with water.
> 
> Where did you get that from?


http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1774355

[email protected] confirms its an aluminum waterblock that has been anodized.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?35094-Maximus-VI-Formula-Discussion-Thread/page9


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No it isnt.
> 
> Its has a copper waterchannel,no alu is in contact with water.
> 
> Where did you get that from?


Doesn't look like copper to me.

http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/xcgal/displayimage.php?pid=43509

The anodizing won't help one bit. I honestly have a hard time believing Asus could be so short sighted here.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No it isnt.
> 
> Its has a copper waterchannel,no alu is in contact with water.
> 
> Where did you get that from?


Raja at Asus said even thought its aluminum its treated and should work without problems, so I am pretty sure it is aluminum. I think all z87 boards with built in wb use aluminum, the
gigabyte z87 Oc force is aluminum.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We keep busy enough with trying to keep up with all the newest GPUs and Motherboards, no time to make stuff for older products.


I want a CSQ block for my BFG 260, make it happen.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No it isnt.
> 
> Its has a copper waterchannel,no alu is in contact with water.
> 
> Where did you get that from?
> 
> 
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1774355
> 
> [email protected] confirms its an aluminum waterblock that has been anodized.
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?35094-Maximus-VI-Formula-Discussion-Thread/page9
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No it isnt.
> 
> Its has a copper waterchannel,no alu is in contact with water.
> 
> Where did you get that from?
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't look like copper to me.
> 
> http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/xcgal/displayimage.php?pid=43509
> 
> The anodizing won't help one bit. I honestly have a hard time believing Asus could be so short sighted here.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No it isnt.
> 
> Its has a copper waterchannel,no alu is in contact with water.
> 
> Where did you get that from?
> 
> 
> 
> Raja at Asus said even thought its aluminum its treated and should work without problems, so I am pretty sure it is aluminum. I think all boards with built in wb use aluminum. The gigabyte z87 Oc force is aluminum and so is my mvf.
Click to expand...

Woops,Maximus V has the copper waterchannel,not the VI.....

Anodizing it will make no difference at all once the fittings are screwed in,they will create the damage to the anodizing and the water will creep under from there.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I want a CSQ block for my BFG 260, make it happen.


Consider it done, bro!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Woops,Maximus V has the copper waterchannel,not the VI.....
> 
> Anodizing it will make no difference at all once the fittings are screwed in,they will create the damage to the anodizing and the water will creep under from there.


ive been telling people that its easier to scratch the anodized coating than they think. 90% of them thank me for the info and proceed with caution and im happy i could help them and give them a heads up.

the other 10% are to stubborn to admit their product has any faults at all (read : fanboy) and go for it anyways, we'll be seeing them back asking for help on what to do with their corroded blocks soon enough


----------



## derickwm

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We keep busy enough with trying to keep up with all the newest GPUs and Motherboards, no time to make stuff for older products.
> 
> 
> 
> I want a CSQ block for my BFG 260, make it happen.
Click to expand...

I GOTCHU BRO. NOBODY NEEDS DEM 780 CLASSY BLOCKS RIGHT?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Here is my loop as it stands now. Any recommendations for a drain and fill port location?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As an EK employee it's not really necessary


That statement has just so much [devastating] I had to go and make an extra cup of coffee.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lootbag*
> 
> I ran a single D5 vario for (1) CPU, (2) GPU and 720 of high restriction radiators.
> It was not a problem, did not even have to run the pump at max.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> That's pretty much exactly what I have on a D5, 840 mm rads, cpu, gpu and a motherboard block. Works fine.


Thanks for the replies, but I forgot to add the the 2 gpus will be plumbed in a parallel config and since there is now a block for the Sniper 5 in the works that will be added. So that's a total of 4 blocks and 840mm of rad. The two rads will be a 420mm ut 60 and a 420 Monsta. I'm worried that my loop wont have enough flow for the parallel gpus. Also does anyone have any experience with the Koolance 450S pump, like how noisy it is?


----------



## stickg1

If I switch to 7/16x5/8 tubing on 1/2" barbs I should be able to go with no hose clamps right?

Is it hard to get the smaller tubing over the barb? Is there any tricks too it like dipping the end of the tube into hot water?


----------



## derickwm

I don't recommend that... Just use compression fittings. Yes it's possible and yes the chance of the tubing coming off the fitting is nearly impossible but man it is a pain in the ass to setup. Soaking the tubing in hot water is absolutely necessary. I did my first loop with the same sizes you mentioned and have never done so again. All personal preferences but it just wasn't my thing.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If I switch to 7/16x5/8 tubing on 1/2" barbs I should be able to go with no hose clamps right?
> 
> Is it hard to get the smaller tubing over the barb? Is there any tricks too it like dipping the end of the tube into hot water?


hot water works, my primochill advance lrt didnt want to budge over my BP 1/2 x 3/4 compressions. Hot water solved it np.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If I switch to 7/16x5/8 tubing on 1/2" barbs I should be able to go with no hose clamps right?
> 
> Is it hard to get the smaller tubing over the barb? Is there any tricks too it like dipping the end of the tube into hot water?


I just got done doing that about a week ago and boy is it tough. I just spit all over my pinky and rubbed the inside of the tube to make it wet and that worked fairly well. I'm sure dipping the end in boiling water would be much easier. You are correct that if you do that, you don't need barbs. The only way to get the tube off is to cut it off the barb, it is very snug.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## stickg1

Yeah compressions would be awesome, l but I can't really afford all new fittings right now. The tubing was on sale for $2 per foot and I need a little less than 5 feet. Only doing it because first off the 1/2" x 3/4" tubing I have looks huge next to my 3/8" x 1/2" I have to use on the Maximus V Formula VRM Block barbs. And I'm using the reusable hose clamps that plumbers use and they're really ugly. So I want to get rid of those, I did order 4 nicer hose clamps that I will still use on my 4 barbs that use 3/8 ID tubing and 3/8" barbs which all happen to be close to the mobo and above the GPU, so a leak would be less than ideal!


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I just got done doing that about a week ago and boy is it tough. I just spit all over my pinky and rubbed the inside of the tube to make it wet and that worked fairly well. I'm sure dipping the end in boiling water would be much easier. You are correct that if you do that, you don't need barbs. The only way to get the tube off is to cut it off the barb, it is very snug.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


You're right in saying boiling water makes it much easier. I just did this with 1/2" Barbs and 3/8" Primochill tubing this past weekend, it was fairly painless. I'd say it was no tougher than trying to screw a Monsoon compression fitting together all the way once tube is on the barb.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Thanks for the replies, but I forgot to add the the 2 gpus will be plumbed in a parallel config and since there is now a block for the Sniper 5 in the works that will be added. So that's a total of 4 blocks and 840mm of rad. The two rads will be a 420mm ut 60 and a 420 Monsta. I'm worried that my loop wont have enough flow for the parallel gpus. Also does anyone have any experience with the Koolance 450S pump, like how noisy it is?


You should be fine my GPU's are parallel through a 4way bridge without an issue. I currently have a dual pump setup with dual rads and if I just run one pump the flow doesn't get restricted enough to cause temperature issues. I actually bled my system running one pump at the time and the flow was great.

Once the Sniper 5 block is released I and I fill my 4 way link then I'm sure I will need the extra pressure from the second pump but for now CPU, GPU's and 2 rads would be fine with one D5.


----------



## mbondPDX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If I switch to 7/16x5/8 tubing on 1/2" barbs I should be able to go with no hose clamps right?
> 
> Is it hard to get the smaller tubing over the barb? Is there any tricks too it like dipping the end of the tube into hot water?


I used the hot water method and it was pretty easy to work with. Like you, I have been considering going clampless but I just haven't worked up the courage yet. The tubing is on there so tight that I really don't see it being an issue, but still...


----------



## JohnnyEars

I did my sons clampless, like Jeffinslaw says, the only way to get the hose off is to cut it - I'm confident there is no way of them slipping off


----------



## 420Killah

Dem low tempsssss <3


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Killah*
> 
> Dem low tempsssss <3






kkkkkk Typical ASUS great software!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Killah*
> 
> Dem low tempsssss <3
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


lol! temps so low the chips will fail


----------



## 420Killah

I really dont know why they dont fix this tho? Both software's are pretty big and soooo many people are having this problem!


----------



## gdubc

Guess they like being the ongoing joke of the forums.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As an EK employee....


Any plans for "clean" X79 blocks? Or least bring back the pre-csq ones ("classic ek")? I'm more inclined to go x79 in the future then Z87.


----------



## szeged

Hey derickwm, i saw the prototypes for the hero and extreme boards on your facebook, any chance we will see a clear plexi version? for the two blocks?


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any plans for "clean" X79 blocks? Or least bring back the pre-csq ones ("classic ek")? I'm more inclined to go x79 in the future then Z87.


THIS!!!

Ever since MIPS disappeared, I have been in mourning









However, if you guys (EK) came out with some fancy new Rampage IV Extreme blocks, something similar in design to the Z87 ROG blocks, I'd snatch up a set in a heartbeat!


----------



## wermad

These weren't that bad but I can't stand CSQ....


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> These weren't that bad but I can't stand CSQ....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


CSQ is just over the top for me. I can put up w/ acetal but the frosted plexi is horrendous









With all due respect to your amazing build, i still can't stand CSQ, especially frosted.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> CSQ is just over the top for me. I can put up w/ acetal but the frosted plexi is horrendous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all due respect to your amazing build, i still can't stand CSQ, especially frosted.


Understood. I like it but I'm a much bigger fan of the new "clean" products, they look amazing. I'm in the process of planning a re-build and will not be using any of the frosted products, strictly the new clean stuff - if I even stick with EK that is... I haven't decided yet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Understood. I like it but I'm a much bigger fan of the new "clean" products, they look amazing. I'm in the process of planning a re-build and will not be using any of the frosted products, strictly the new clean stuff - if I even stick with EK that is... I haven't decided yet.


My first choice in gpu block is HK but the two Titans I previously owned already had EK clean blocks so it made sense to keep them for the 780s. It worked out great since I love how the pastel looks through the blocks. BP has a new titan block in clear plexi w/ nickel. Yummy


----------



## briddell

I wish Mips were still around. Your 900D with Mips goodness would be amazing.


----------



## MrGrievous

Speaking of the "clean" blocks from EK, is there a "clean" CSQ parallel bridge available? I cant seem to find one, even on the EK's website.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Speaking of the "clean" blocks from EK, is there a "clean" CSQ parallel bridge available? I cant seem to find one, even on the EK's website.


I asked derick and he said its being worked on. He did site its harder to mill plexi vs acetal for the bridges. If you need something w/ a clear setup, get some crystal links or the like, ?


----------



## Convex

Here is my 900D Build... I haven't finished because college just started, and i have another 3k worth of parts and fittings laying around ready to be installed, but I cant spare the time to build until the semester ends.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















hmm...just used the *spoiler* for the first time.. interesting..

anyways, 900D case, asrock x79 extreme 11, 4 of 8 dom-plat 1866 CL9 are installed...the other 32gb haven't arrived yet, 1 out of 3 7970s is actually installed, 400x200mm rad on the roof, 360 on the left side, a 140 on the right side, soon to be a 140 for exhaust, and getting a chip set and vrm waterblock for my board soon too.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Understood. I like it but I'm a much bigger fan of the new "clean" products, they look amazing. I'm in the process of planning a re-build and will not be using any of the frosted products, strictly the new clean stuff - if I even stick with EK that is... I haven't decided yet.


im in the same boat as you. I would like to just update with all clean black but derick said there are no plans to make a clean 680 top replacement (i'd just keep same hardware and replace the tops).
in my mind the 680 is still very relevant / not every college student or anyone for that matter just go get a new $500 + gpu, i'd rather just spruce it up a bit by changing the tops on everything for less than $100!

for that reason alone i prob will stray away from ek in the next couple months when i wanna do a refresh but as of now there really aren't many companies that have nice matching cpu / gpu (gtx 680) / ram / pump tops even. So idk, kinda stuck between a rock and a hard place as of now.

I wish Aquacomputer would release a cpu cooler that is at least half as sexy as the Kyrographics gpu blocks. (also gotta say I kinda respect them as a company because the newer kyrographics blocks weren't even released too long ago -- after the 780's came out but they know like i said above the 680 is still pretty relevant!)

/rant


----------



## zzorro

AIO temporary setup







... while waiting for all equipment w / c custom arrive










haha now only have stop fitting


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> AIO temporary setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... while waiting for all equipment w / c custom arrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks really clean.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> Here is my 900D Build... I haven't finished because college just started, and i have another 3k worth of parts and fittings laying around ready to be installed, but I cant spare the time to build until the semester ends.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmm...just used the *spoiler* for the first time.. interesting..
> 
> anyways, 900D case, asrock x79 extreme 11, 4 of 8 dom-plat 1866 CL9 are installed...the other 32gb haven't arrived yet, 1 out of 3 7970s is actually installed, 400x200mm rad on the roof, 360 on the left side, a 140 on the right side, soon to be a 140 for exhaust, and getting a chip set and vrm waterblock for my board soon too.


Looks awesome, love the floor


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> AIO temporary setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... while waiting for all equipment w / c custom arrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha now only have stop fitting


where did you get those led strips you have on your drive bays?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> where did you get those led strips you have on your drive bays?


That kind of looks like the SSD mount from the copperHead mod. Here's the link to buy it:

http://www.coppermod.de/

Jeffinslaw


----------



## zzorro

Clear Acrylic Shee 12mm thickness...


close picture


----------



## WebsterXC

Wait I'm confused what's the blowtorch for?

Badass rig by the way. I used to have a Raven and it was a disaster for me.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Wait I'm confused what's the blowtorch for?
> 
> Badass rig by the way. I used to have a Raven and it was a disaster for me.


I believe to flame polish (gets rid of the frost).

Btw, I still have no clue what that mod was for in his build


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I believe to flame polish (gets rid of the frost).
> 
> Btw, I still have no clue what that mod was for in his build


yes








before flame polish can look the led..










after...










Btw, to look more attractive than empty...


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Understood. I like it but I'm a much bigger fan of the new "clean" products, they look amazing. I'm in the process of planning a re-build and will not be using any of the frosted products, strictly the new clean stuff - if I even stick with EK that is... I haven't decided yet.


aaaannndd all that ugly CSQ could go up for sale... right?









I like CSQ because it looks like ice cubes...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> before flame polish can look the led..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, to look more attractive than empty...


Ah, ok, you glazed it. Gotcha







, looks great


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> aaaannndd all that ugly CSQ could go up for sale... right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like CSQ because it looks like ice cubes...


Haha, absolutely. I still have the 3 GTX 680's with csq blocks laying around that I need to sell asap, before they're extinct.


----------



## MNModder

Derckwm I am curious if you guys (EK) are planning on releasing an acrylic dual d5 top. J/W I like the war the pumps are mounted on your dual d5 top but want an acrylic one


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Haha, absolutely. I still have the 3 GTX 680's with csq blocks laying around that I need to sell asap, before they're extinct.


Wow, thought you already sold em


----------



## oelkanne

lets say so .... water onto PCB on both sides...i may think that this fakt is not sooo good to power the system...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As an EK employee....
> 
> 
> 
> Any plans for "clean" X79 blocks? Or least bring back the pre-csq ones ("classic ek")? I'm more inclined to go x79 in the future then Z87.
Click to expand...

Depends if any new boards come out when IB-E is launched. If new boards do come out then we'll more than likely follow the same look we've been doing with our Z87 OC Force & Z87 MVIE blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey derickwm, i saw the prototypes for the hero and extreme boards on your facebook, any chance we will see a clear plexi version? for the two blocks?


Hero, no. Extreme is being talked about for clear plexi.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> CSQ is just over the top for me. I can put up w/ acetal but the frosted plexi is horrendous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all due respect to your amazing build, i still can't stand CSQ, especially frosted.
Click to expand...

You know the frosted can be polished off yeah?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Speaking of the "clean" blocks from EK, is there a "clean" CSQ parallel bridge available? I cant seem to find one, even on the EK's website.


The "Clean CSQ" ones are terminals: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals.html?limit=all

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Speaking of the "clean" blocks from EK, is there a "clean" CSQ parallel bridge available? I cant seem to find one, even on the EK's website.
> 
> 
> 
> I asked derick and he said its being worked on. He did site its harder to mill plexi vs acetal for the bridges. If you need something w/ a clear setup, get some crystal links or the like, ?
Click to expand...

As far as clean csq plexi terminals go, this pretty much is the reason why. They are in the works though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> Derckwm I am curious if you guys (EK) are planning on releasing an acrylic dual d5 top. J/W I like the war the pumps are mounted on your dual d5 top but want an acrylic one


At this time we not plan on doing so. Again because plexi is a little harder to work with than Acetal.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Wait I'm confused what's the blowtorch for?
> 
> Badass rig by the way. I used to have a Raven and it was a disaster for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Wait I'm confused what's the blowtorch for?
> 
> Badass rig by the way. I used to have a Raven and it was a disaster for me.
> 
> 
> 
> *I believe to flame polish* (gets rid of the frost).
> 
> Btw, I still have no clue what that mod was for in his build
Click to expand...

Did a guide for that too.....quite a while a go tho.

www.overclock.net/t/1287020/acrylic-flame-polishing-101


----------



## briddell

Has anyone used frosted acrylic tubing, before?


----------



## ginger_nuts

B neg a tive

To the rescue again


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Haha, absolutely. I still have the 3 GTX 680's with csq blocks laying around that I need to sell asap, before they're extinct.


PM me... I have two 670's all blocked up as well that I would like to sell, they just don't quite cut the mustard for surround gaming. I assume your 680's are 2GB though, eh? I may just try a scratch the money up somehow, but may have to research the feasibility of 2GB cards for future "proofing" if that's what they are.

Do you have pics? Or are these the ones in the sig CSQ rig? (boy that thing is just dreamy)


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> PM me... I have two 670's all blocked up as well that I would like to sell, they just don't quite cut the mustard for surround gaming. I assume your 680's are 2GB though, eh? I may just try a scratch the money up somehow, but may have to research the feasibility of 2GB cards for future "proofing" if that's what they are.
> 
> Do you have pics? Or are these the ones in the sig CSQ rig? (boy that thing is just dreamy)


If you're running eyefininity or the NVIDIA equivalent, 2GB of VRAM isn't going to cut it, I'd say 3GB minimum, although that too would be pushing it a little bit, like it might need more than that.

For example, BF3 uses around 1.9GB of VRAM in 1440p with a single GTX 670 2GB.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Haha, absolutely. I still have the 3 GTX 680's with csq blocks laying around that I need to sell asap, before they're extinct.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> PM me... I have two 670's all blocked up as well that I would like to sell, they just don't quite cut the mustard for surround gaming. I assume your 680's are 2GB though, eh? I may just try a scratch the money up somehow, but may have to research the feasibility of 2GB cards for future "proofing" if that's what they are.
> 
> Do you have pics? Or are these the ones in the sig CSQ rig? (boy that thing is just dreamy)


Perhaps both of you could PM prices on what you're looking for per card. I have an EVGA ACX SC 760 that I put a uni-block on (custom PCB) and there's no backplate available, the PCB sags and I can't even stand to look at it anymore. I something different. A 680 or 670 with full cover block sounds right up my alley.


----------



## Molemend

Hi guys! I thought I'd Post up my rig







See If I can't join this watercooling club where all the cool kids are! Some of the pics are before I brought my new 770 and stuck a block on it. The one where she is naked is the most up to date







I'm looking at re-doing the tubing and getting some non staining tubes because the UV coolant has stained the tubing I have a funny green colour and the UV is no longer affective. I may change my mind and just get some UV anti kink coils







Let me know what you think, also I have noticed that the loop is in the wrong order. So will be changing that when I get my new tubing!


----------



## GTX670

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molemend*
> 
> Hi guys! I thought I'd Post up my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See If I can't join this watercooling club where all the cool kids are! Some of the pics are before I brought my new 770 and stuck a block on it. The one where she is naked is the most up to date
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking at re-doing the tubing and getting some non staining tubes because the UV coolant has stained the tubing I have a funny green colour and the UV is no longer affective. I may change my mind and just get some UV anti kink coils
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think, also I have noticed that the loop is in the wrong order. So will be changing that when I get my new tubing!


these colors doesn't match


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTX670*
> 
> these colors doesn't match


Red White and Blue?

Murica


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> If you're running eyefininity or the NVIDIA equivalent, 2GB of VRAM isn't going to cut it, I'd say 3GB minimum, although that too would be pushing it a little bit, like it might need more than that.
> 
> For example, BF3 uses around 1.9GB of VRAM in 1440p with a single GTX 670 2GB.


I actually ran 5760 x 1080 with the 3 2gb 680's and no issues. Crysis 3, BF3, Metro LL all maxed out. No MSAA or SSAA obviously. 60 frames per second in all games. I believe BF3 has a habit of reporting the memory being maxed out regardless of if it actually is or not. Crysis 3 would hit 1700-1800 and Metro LL 1500. BF3 would show 1999 all the time and on my 780's BF3 shows 2999. I read somewhere thats typical of the game, I don't remember the technical reason however, but I fail to believe BF3 uses more memory than Crysis 3 maxed out. Don't get me wrong I think the 2gb limit could be restricting down the road but honestly for the next 12 months or maybe more I think games can still be maxed out in surround with no issue with them. New consoles coming out will be the real game changer for developers though, but the resources probably won't be tapped out for a couple of years.

On a side note I'll pm those that requested it, regarding the 680's I have.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I actually ran 5760 x 1080 with the 3 2gb 680's and no issues. Crysis 3, BF3, Metro LL all maxed out. No MSAA or SSAA obviously. 60 frames per second in all games. I believe BF3 has a habit of reporting the memory being maxed out regardless of if it actually is or not. Crysis 3 would hit 1700-1800 and Metro LL 1500. BF3 would show 1999 all the time and on my 780's BF3 shows 2999. I read somewhere thats typical of the game, I don't remember the technical reason however, but I fail to believe BF3 uses more memory than Crysis 3 maxed out. Don't get me wrong I think the 2gb limit could be restricting down the road but honestly for the next 12 months or maybe more I think games can still be maxed out in surround with no issue with them. New consoles coming out will be the real game changer for developers though, but the resources probably won't be tapped out for a couple of years.
> 
> On a side note I'll pm those that requested it, regarding the 680's I have.


Did you take the VRAM usage readings from GPU-z? That's where I got mine.

I know KarLitoS had a tri-1440p quadfire 7970 setup, I'll have to ask him what his VRAM usage was like when he still had the quadfire setup, but I think 1 GB of VRAM per screen in 1440p is a little bit low, and it seems newer games are using more VRAM.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Perhaps both of you could PM prices on what you're looking for per card. I have an EVGA ACX SC 760 that I put a uni-block on (custom PCB) and there's no backplate available, the PCB sags and I can't even stand to look at it anymore. I something different. A 680 or 670 with full cover block sounds right up my alley.


PM'ed on the 670's...

These 670's used to sag before the blocks. Now they look amazing!! Just need some backplates to match these pretty blocks.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I actually ran 5760 x 1080 with the 3 2gb 680's and no issues. Crysis 3, BF3, Metro LL all maxed out. No MSAA or SSAA obviously. 60 frames per second in all games. I believe BF3 has a habit of reporting the memory being maxed out regardless of if it actually is or not. Crysis 3 would hit 1700-1800 and Metro LL 1500. BF3 would show 1999 all the time and on my 780's BF3 shows 2999. I read somewhere thats typical of the game, I don't remember the technical reason however, but I fail to believe BF3 uses more memory than Crysis 3 maxed out. Don't get me wrong I think the 2gb limit could be restricting down the road but honestly for the next 12 months or maybe more I think games can still be maxed out in surround with no issue with them. New consoles coming out will be the real game changer for developers though, but the resources probably won't be tapped out for a couple of years.
> 
> On a side note I'll pm those that requested it, regarding the 680's I have.


I can't imagine that with AA set to 2x, three 2gb 680's couldn't handle 5760 @ 144hz just fine. If two 670's handle it at 40+ fps on Ultra, AA 2x, lower post processing, man... I don't know.









I certainly don't HAVE to sell these 670's, and a third one would probably set me straight for another year or so, but the 680's might buy me 2+ years with the raw power of the GPU. They slightly gimped the 670, but with this two of these 4GB cards I can run Crysis 3 on high settings in surround. I do get dips in the hgh 20's though during the more epic scenes, but the other 80-90% of the game is just smooth... I do like the single player games in 3D and for that I need to run a single monitor for C3. Tomb Raider runs like a champ though on 2x AA in 3D Surround, and that MAY be due to the 4GB... that and of course a healthy stable OC @ 1100 core and 3200 Mems. Temps reach about 57C on 3 monitors and + or -52C for that.

I just have a hard time believing that 3x 680's would struggle with much of anything TBH...

If only every game could look as nice and run as smooth as Portal 2 in 3D Surround does with all settings FULL BORE, no matter what level, I'd never need 680's. I have that game running with EVERYTHING as high as it will go (in-game settings) in 3DS.

{Other game engines}









Sorry for the ramble, but I thought some real world experience might be food for thought on the topic.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Did a guide for that too.....quite a while a go tho.
> 
> www.overclock.net/t/1287020/acrylic-flame-polishing-101


Thanks for the link B-Neg, I'll have to check it out.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> Here is my 900D Build... I haven't finished because college just started, and i have another 3k worth of parts and fittings laying around ready to be installed, but I cant spare the time to build until the semester ends.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmm...just used the *spoiler* for the first time.. interesting..
> 
> anyways, 900D case, asrock x79 extreme 11, 4 of 8 dom-plat 1866 CL9 are installed...the other 32gb haven't arrived yet, 1 out of 3 7970s is actually installed, 400x200mm rad on the roof, 360 on the left side, a 140 on the right side, soon to be a 140 for exhaust, and getting a chip set and vrm waterblock for my board soon too.


Where did you get the bottom cover for the PS compartment of your 900D or is that custom made?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Well I was thinking of running 780 sli, but I could order 770 sli this weekend... Not to mention 4gb ACX ones!!! Guess it's time to get rid of the Ek Titan block...
*sigh


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Well I was thinking of running 780 sli, but I could order 770 sli this weekend... Not to mention 4gb ACX ones!!! Guess it's time to get rid of the Ek Titan block...
> *sigh


Isn't the PCB on the 770 the same size as the Titan?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I've heard that, but... derickwm is that correct?


----------



## Fanboy88

Edit: Well I may be wrong and you may have to get a new block...lol...since the layout of the 770 is more like a 680, a 680 block should work, but the titan block will probably only work with the 780


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> Edit: Well I may be wrong and you may have to get a new block...lol...since the layout of the 770 is more like a 680, a 680 block should work, but the titan block will probably only work with the 780


Here's some info...

More Pictures Surface of GTX 780; Almost GTX Titan PCB


----------



## cyphon

That is pretty close....doubt that any of those differences would affect a water block.....


----------



## vaapukkamehu

I'm sorry for posting this again, but my post kind of went unnoticed the first time.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaapukkamehu*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Could somebody point out the differences between Swiftech MCP35X and EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pumps?
> 
> EK released a new res/pump combo with the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump included and that would be about 20€ (26.67$) cheaper than buying the normal top/res combo and the MCP35X pump.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaapukkamehu*
> 
> I'm sorry for posting this again, but my post kind of went unnoticed the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vaapukkamehu*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Could somebody point out the differences between Swiftech MCP35X and EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pumps?
> 
> EK released a new res/pump combo with the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump included and that would be about 20€ (26.67$) cheaper than buying the normal top/res combo and the MCP35X pump.
Click to expand...

There should be little to no difference,the base motor is the same,just with added PWM control


----------



## stickg1

So is CSQ just anything EK makes with those little circles on it? I don't really mind that, in fact, I will soon be the proud owner of a 680 with little circles on the block and backplate. Looks pretty sexy!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Two 770s and EK blocks will be a lot cheaper than 780s and blocks!


----------



## khemist

Got my XSPC AX480mm rad, stand, Demciflex filter + 4 Akasa Piranha fans for an external rad setup together.

Just need to keep a hold of it now until i change to a MATX case.


----------



## wermad

Titan PCB = 780

edit: 770 uses a different design then the 680. Not sure if there are any 770s using the exact layout as 680.


----------



## Beakz

So, does that mean I can use a 770 wb on a ref 680?


----------



## nepToon

It's obviously not finished but the mini loop is complete and flowing as I'm writing from this system, my only system atm.
So it constitutes my de-virginization to wc, sry for unfinished pics


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> So, does that mean I can use a 770 wb on a ref 680?


Reference GTX 770:



Reference GTX 680:



So to answer your question, nope. It will require a water-block specifically for the GTX 680.


----------



## nismoskyline

finished my 800d











any criticism is welcome


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Reference GTX 770:
> 
> 
> 
> Reference GTX 680:
> 
> 
> 
> So to answer your question, nope. It will require a water-block specifically for the GTX 680.


Had a nagging suspicion it was not gonna be the same









I'm guessing from the initial speculations and announcements, there was mention of using the same pcb as the 680. Its probably using the same board but the components layout is a bit different, especially the vrm design.


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> finished my 800d
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any criticism is welcome


Nice work! very clean
The picture is really shaky. That is my only criticism

Shouldve gone with white tubing aswell


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The beefed up VRM....didnt nvidiot open voltages again?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The beefed up VRM....didnt nvidiot open voltages again?


No, even the GTX Titan which costs almost 1000€ is voltage capped, real shame on such expensive cards, it's the main reason I moved to AMD.


----------



## Beakz

Darn, I REALLY like the new EK waterblocks, so much cleaner than the old csq. Oh well looks like I'll just go with an XSPC block or a Heatkiller


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> Darn, I REALLY like the new EK waterblocks, so much cleaner than the old csq. Oh well looks like I'll just go with an XSPC block or a Heatkiller


That sentence makes no sense.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> Darn, I REALLY like the new EK waterblocks, so much cleaner than the old csq. Oh well looks like I'll just go with an XSPC block or a Heatkiller


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That sentence makes no sense.


I am not sure what he's on..


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I am not sure what he's on..


<=====#~~~~
He's friend Bob.


----------



## briddell

_Man, I love these new blocks! Guess I won't use them!_


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> No, even the GTX Titan which costs almost 1000€ is voltage capped, real shame on such expensive cards, it's the main reason I moved to AMD.


Actually, the newest MSI Afterburner allows for unlocked voltages on the gtx 770, 780, and Titan (the latter two in not fully sure about). I do know the MSI gtx 770 gaming edition specifically has unlocked voltages through the new MSI Afterburner, but other cards ymmv. It all has to do if your card has a certain vrm. However, I don't remember exactly which one.


----------



## protzman

he was asking if he could use a 770 block on a 680 because like me he likes the clean design of the newer blocks, but since he cant... he will use a xspc / heatkiller block.

lol makes sense to me!


----------



## wermad

PhillyD is selling a 680 DD copper/plexi block:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1324211/danger-den-680-block-g-vans-fc9

Great price. Blocks cool pretty good (had 480s and 580s).


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> finished my 800d
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any criticism is welcome


Looks pretty good from what I can see.







Try taking a picture with more light or may be a flash to get the shot more in focus. It is next to impossible to get a clear shot while holding the camera with out it.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Had a nagging suspicion it was not gonna be the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing from the initial speculations and announcements, there was mention of using the same pcb as the 680. Its probably using the same board but the components layout is a bit different, especially the vrm design.


The reference board for a 770 is different than the 680 so you wouldn't be able to use a 770 block on a 680 however given that some 770's are using the 680 pcb you can use the 680 block on some 770's like for example some of the ASUS cards.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> The reference board for a 770 is different than the 680 so you wouldn't be able to use a 770 block on a 680 however given that some 770's are using the 680 pcb you can use the 680 block on some 770's like for example some of the ASUS cards.


The Asus 770 DC2s are using the same pcb as the DC2 680. And the DC2 is not a reference design. So this makes it a unique situation. I'm wondering if any 770 is actually using the reference 680 pcb.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> Darn, I REALLY like the new EK waterblocks, so much cleaner than the old csq. Oh well looks like I'll just go with an XSPC block or a Heatkiller


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That sentence makes no sense.


I Agree.....

You really like the new EK blocks, yet you wanna go with another block?


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I Agree.....
> 
> You really like the new EK blocks, yet you wanna go with another block?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> he was asking if he could use a 770 block on a 680 because like me he likes the clean design of the newer blocks, but since he cant... he will use a xspc / heatkiller block.
> 
> lol makes sense to me!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The Asus 770 DC2s are using the same pcb as the DC2 680. And the DC2 is not a reference design. So this makes it a unique situation. I'm wondering if any 770 is actually using the reference 680 pcb.


A lot of them do. Pretty much only the EVGA use the ref 770 PCB.

Have a look at the compatibility list for the EK 680 Block and the 770 block

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856963

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109868232


----------



## cyphon

@protzman when you add that other information it makes more sense. Didn't have time to go back and read everything lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A lot of them do. Pretty much only the EVGA use the ref 770 PCB.
> 
> Have a look at the compatibility list for the EK 680 Block and the 770 block
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856963
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109868232


Lol, I forgot to just check the block info to get a comp list







. That's what I'm looking for. So what they said was true, some 770s are using the 680 reference pcb. Not all of them. I'm helping out some colleagues put together some builds and they're most likely going w/ 770s. Good to know which ones are reference 680 design


----------



## skyn3t

After debating with myself and getting some info here and there I....I...i...I...i...I
*[Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues. Part II*
dang I could not resist anymore. I pulled the trigger on ASUS MAXIMUS VI FORMULA Next step is getting a 4770k and delide it










@ wermad , I think you just spread some contagious buying things on me


----------



## sebar

Hey guys, version 2 of my custom reservoir is finished. I added a zigzag baffle system to settle the water down.









The video is processing now and will be available shortly. http://youtu.be/gCxddV7cBmE



Here are some pics of the first version.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hey guys, version 2 of my custom reservoir is finished. I added a zigzag baffle system to settle the water down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video is processing now and will be available shortly. http://youtu.be/gCxddV7cBmE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the first version.


Looking good man! It is has a unique look, which scores really high in my book









Do you have access to do the machining yourself? or did you send it off? You gonna dye the fluid at all? I am thinking it'd look sweet with some colored fluid in there...maybe some LEDs illuminating the acrylic as well?

I'd still try to calm the water down a little more if possible.


----------



## Beakz

Hahaha, I knew I should have used quotes. Lazy me on my phone. What meant was, I wished I could use the new EK blocks (700 series blocks) on my reference 680, some how thinking that the 770 had the same PCB as a reference 680, so instead I'm probably going to go with either a full cover XSPC block or a full nickel heat killer block. Well looks like I learned my lesson to use quotes more often








Edit: nice looking res you have there sebar, keep up the good work.


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Had a big scare earlier today. Alt-Tab'd out of CS:Go, looked down at my keyboard's lcd, cpu temps were hovering around 75-79c, my heart stopped. Opened up Core Temp, maximum of 80c on the hottest core, no idea what the maximum gpu temps were. I immediately knew something was wrong, so I sprang out of my chair, and took the side panel of my case off. Radiator fans were not running. Turns out, the radiator fans had been powered off for nearly 4 hours while I was playing CS:Go. I'm surprised It didn't completely shut down due to overheating. Never want that to happen again.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> Had a big scare earlier today. Alt-Tab'd out of CS:Go, looked down at my keyboard's lcd, cpu temps were hovering around 75-79c, my heart stopped. Opened up Core Temp, maximum of 80c on the hottest core, no idea what the maximum gpu temps were. I immediately knew something was wrong, so I sprang out of my chair, and took the side panel of my case off. Radiator fans were not running. Turns out, the radiator fans had been powered off for nearly 4 hours while I was playing CS:Go. I'm surprised It didn't completely shut down due to overheating. Never want that to happen again.


On the upside however, you can obviously get by with some mighty slow fans on that sucker - considering it keeps you from reaching truly critical temps while running passively!


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> On the upside however, you can obviously get by with some mighty slow fans on that sucker - considering it keeps you from reaching truly critical temps while running passively!


That is true. I usually run the three fans around 7v, not sure about the rpm.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I like that top bitspower block, if only it came in nickle.


Nickle version( also fit 780):





and the back plate


To answer some pms, i don't work for bitspower so i can't give you price, ETA etc., and naturally i can't help you get sponsored


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> Had a big scare earlier today. Alt-Tab'd out of CS:Go, looked down at my keyboard's lcd, cpu temps were hovering around 75-79c, my heart stopped. Opened up Core Temp, maximum of 80c on the hottest core, no idea what the maximum gpu temps were. I immediately knew something was wrong, so I sprang out of my chair, and took the side panel of my case off. Radiator fans were not running. Turns out, the radiator fans had been powered off for nearly 4 hours while I was playing CS:Go. I'm surprised It didn't completely shut down due to overheating. Never want that to happen again.


Because your temp nowhere near the thermal shutdown temperature. Temps are high but not overheating yet. Considering it can keep temp at 80C max (average under 80C) for 4 hours show you have very good cooling system even without fans running.


----------



## nismoskyline

Thanks for the feedback







i'll try and get a tripod and take some good pics of my rig soon


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looking good man! It is has a unique look, which scores really high in my book
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have access to do the machining yourself? or did you send it off? You gonna dye the fluid at all? I am thinking it'd look sweet with some colored fluid in there...maybe some LEDs illuminating the acrylic as well?
> 
> I'd still try to calm the water down a little more if possible.


Thanks, I built it by myself from 3/8 acrylic sheet and 4 inch acrylic tube. The baffles are cut from 3 mm acrylic sheet. I could drill some small holes for LED's to dd some color. Once I add in a couple rads and a block or two the water should calm down more.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering if there would be much benefit changing two Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 for two Alphacool NexXxoS XT45.

Whilst cooling an AMD 8350 (overclocked as high as I can) and two GTX770's (EVGA 2Gb version)?


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering if there would be much benefit changing two Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 for two Alphacool NexXxoS XT45.


Volume wise, it would be like adding another st30, in reality it may give you a degree or more better temp - but the bling factor would be worth it


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering if there would be much benefit changing two Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 for two Alphacool NexXxoS XT45.
> 
> Whilst cooling an AMD 8350 (overclocked as high as I can) and two GTX770's (EVGA 2Gb version)?


Not enough benefit to outweigh the cost and effort.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Volume wise, it would be like adding another st30, in reality it may give you a degree or more better temp - but the bling factor would be worth it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Not enough benefit to outweigh the cost and effort.


I guess then I will keep what I have,


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Hey guys, version 2 of my custom reservoir is finished. I added a zigzag baffle system to settle the water down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video is processing now and will be available shortly. http://youtu.be/gCxddV7cBmE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the first version.


LOVE THIS!!

This res would mount cleanly on the outside of a small system and could be a feature of the rig...

Suggestions for a future model:

4 Holes for LED's on the mounting plate. Like the ones on acrylic waterblocks and bridges.
Acrylic mounting assembly. Yes acrylic thumb screws...
iPod connector... oh wait! wrong product!!








PM me with a cost for making one for me... I wouldn't be in a hurry or anything.


----------



## akiles333

My first build ever.


----------



## szeged

Not bad except for the visible leds, just an opinion really, I just don't like builds that have been packed with leds all around








But I can imagine it with the leds out or off, and in that case, it looks good:thumb:


----------



## islandgam3r

*HEY GUYS FAN CNTRL QUESTION: I know that everyone LOVES the Lamptron FC Touch BUUT Which the following would u guys recommend:

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Aerocool-Touch-2100-Dual-525-5-Channel-Fan-and-Temperature-Controller--Touch-2100-pid-17761.html

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Kaze-Master-Pro-525-6-Channel-Fan-and-Temperature-Controller-Black--KM03-BK-pid-11687.html*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> *HEY GUYS FAN CNTRL QUESTION: I know that everyone LOVES the Lamptron FC Touch BUUT Which the following would u guys recommend:
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Aerocool-Touch-2100-Dual-525-5-Channel-Fan-and-Temperature-Controller--Touch-2100-pid-17761.html
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Kaze-Master-Pro-525-6-Channel-Fan-and-Temperature-Controller-Black--KM03-BK-pid-11687.html*


Neither,they are both crap.

Please,no need for bold type.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> *HEY GUYS FAN CNTRL QUESTION: I know that everyone LOVES the Lamptron FC Touch BUUT Which the following would u guys recommend:
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Aerocool-Touch-2100-Dual-525-5-Channel-Fan-and-Temperature-Controller--Touch-2100-pid-17761.html
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Kaze-Master-Pro-525-6-Channel-Fan-and-Temperature-Controller-Black--KM03-BK-pid-11687.html*


I would take aerocool's controller







But in limited space i'd take scythe's







in my opinion both are good but let the "experts" say what they think


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Not bad except for the visible leds, just an opinion really, I just don't like builds that have been packed with leds all around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I can imagine it with the leds out or off, and in that case, it looks good:thumb:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Not bad except for the visible leds, just an opinion really, I just don't like builds that have been packed with leds all around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I can imagine it with the leds out or off, and in that case, it looks good:thumb:


you can't see the leds at all, its just the camera being stupid. thanks anyway


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> you can't see the leds at all, its just the camera being stupid. thanks anyway


Pictures never do capture the real deal 100%







it does look good though! Good job


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Neither,they are both crap.
> 
> Please,no need for bold type.


Spoken like a tride and true Lamptron fanny







(sorry for bold didnt realize it was, maybe my laptop screen is too zoomed out)

i just asked which one is better, i specifically didnt compare them to lamptron i compared them to each other


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Spoken like a tride and true Lamptron fanny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry for bold didnt realize it was, maybe my laptop screen is too zoomed out)
> 
> i just asked which one is better, i specifically didnt compare them to lamptron i compared them to each other


I still think he will say they are both crap


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Neither,they are both crap.
> 
> Please,no need for bold type.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoken like a tride and true Lamptron fanny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry for bold didnt realize it was, maybe my laptop screen is too zoomed out)
> 
> i just asked which one is better, i specifically didnt compare them to lamptron i compared them to each other
Click to expand...

You are a fool,I roll with real toys...



I have 4 blown Scythe controllers sitting in my spares bin and the Aerocool has poor control of fans.
I base my comments on actually using these products.

At what point did i even mention Lamptron?

Surely there is a GPU pissing contest thread for you to infest?


----------



## steelkevin

Quick question.

I wanted postive pressure in my Midi R2 like I had in my old Phantom but because I have a 280mm rad up top I couldn't put the fans above the radiator pushing outside air through the rad so I just set up the fans as if I didn't even have the radiator. So they're under the radiator blowing hot air from the motherboard and GPU (it's only a crappy GTS240 but it idles at 60°C and while playing BF3 it's never under 80°C).
Would it be bad to pull air through the rad knowing that I run all my fans @5V and the top of the Arc Midi R2 has some rather thick foam dust filters ?

PS: pictures of my rig can be found in my default album.
Oh and yes, that GTS240 can handle BF3 @1080p surprisingly. I only play 24-32p games with everything set to the lowest setting possible but the resolution and it averages 45 fps and I've never seen it drop below 30.


----------



## islandgam3r

@bnegative Whoa whoa whoa slow your roll man no need for insults lighten up we r all watercooling fans here i clearly put a tongue out smiley cuz i was cracking a joke in prev post. I used aerocool b4 in prev air builds never had issues. I just needed to know diff between those two brands thats all. And i didn't say u mentioned lamptron, i said "i know everyone here loves lamptrom fc touch"
And THEN AND ONLY THEN i cracked a joke on ur response shooting down both links i posted. Lets just b real here


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Neither,they are both crap.
> 
> Please,no need for bold type.
> 
> 
> 
> *Spoken like a tride and true Lamptron fan*ny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry for bold didnt realize it was, maybe my laptop screen is too zoomed out)
> 
> i just asked which one is better, *i specifically didnt compare them to lamptron* i compared them to each other
Click to expand...

I didnt mention Lamptron and im certainly no fan boy.


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I didnt mention Lamptron and im certainly no fan boy.


So wat do u use NZXT? Im gettin all the info from everyone i can because im pretty psyched about my upcoming first watercooling build n i want it to b perfect i got most of the parts together that i want to purchase just getting some info makin sure i not overspending on things i don't need


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> So wat do u use NZXT? Im gettin all the info from everyone i can because im pretty psyched about my upcoming first watercooling build n i want it to b perfect i got most of the parts together that i want to purchase just getting some info makin sure i not overspending on things i don't need


You're talking about watercooling. Everything you'll buy is stuff you don't "need".


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> You're talking about watercooling. Everything you'll buy is stuff you don't "need".


Haha good point forgot that when u going watercooling theres no such thing as "limited" or "too much" either you go big or go home =]


----------



## mbondPDX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> Haha good point forgot that when u going watercooling theres no such thing as "limited" or "too much" either you go big or go home =]


My wife constantly shoots me down when I have plans to "go big" with my rig. I dunno how you guys pull off some of the rigs I see in here. Tell me you're secrets.


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> My wife constantly shoots me down when I have plans to "go big" with my rig. I dunno how you guys pull off some of the rigs I see in here. Tell me you're secrets.


Maybe they don't have wives?


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> My wife constantly shoots me down when I have plans to "go big" with my rig. I dunno how you guys pull off some of the rigs I see in here. Tell me you're secrets.


the wives are a serious problem


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> My wife constantly shoots me down when I have plans to "go big" with my rig. I dunno how you guys pull off some of the rigs I see in here. Tell me you're secrets.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> Maybe they don't have wives?


Or the alternative to the "no wife" theory is that the builder (let's assume man, like me) makes 99.999% of the money coming into the household, and the contributions the wife brings are not paid, but extensive in their own right.
When I want to build or buy a new bike, or another gun or something, I tell her what I'm going to do, and she is usually between nonchalant to dismissive about it, unless I disclose that it will be a ton of money...
If she ever needs anything; clicky clicky in the bank, she gets the cash she needs and can move about and do what she likes...

So I guess my scenario is rare and somewhat unique, but not unheard of!

Thanks - T


----------



## TampaChaz

Single dad here. Son is grown and out of the house, so it's time for dad to play!


----------



## ginger_nuts

If and when the wife asks I tell her "Not much dear, didn't cost much at all"









I have learnt wisely, transfer money to Paypal, she can't monitor that.


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> the wives are a serious problem


Lol lmao wow that's sooo true i have a gf but she is wife-to-be she is a serious penny pincher but wen it comes to her womanly stuff noone can tell her anythin so I'm like U DO KNOW U R WITH A GEEK RIGHT? LOL


----------



## tiborrr12

Finally: http://www.ekwb.com/news/387/19/New-water-block-for-ASUS-DC2-series-GeForce-GTX-780-released/


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Finally: http://www.ekwb.com/news/387/19/New-water-block-for-ASUS-DC2-series-GeForce-GTX-780-released/


Better late than never.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> @bnegative Whoa whoa whoa slow your roll man no need for insults lighten up we r all watercooling fans here i clearly put a tongue out smiley cuz i was cracking a joke in prev post. I used aerocool b4 in prev air builds never had issues. I just needed to know diff between those two brands thats all. And i didn't say u mentioned lamptron, i said "i know everyone here loves lamptrom fc touch"
> And THEN AND ONLY THEN i cracked a joke on ur response shooting down both links i posted. Lets just b real here


His name isn't "B Real" or "B Supportive"... It's "B _Negative_"... Just sayin'







(But he does know his stuff).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> So wat do u use NZXT? Im gettin all the info from everyone i can because im pretty psyched about my upcoming first watercooling build n i want it to b perfect i got most of the parts together that i want to purchase just getting some info makin sure i not overspending on things i don't need


I've had good luck with Lamptron - better than many it seems but then I don't use the touch... B Neg basically answered you with that pic of a Aquaero and waterblock. Although that's not even remotely in the same budget as any of the controllers you mentioned. I'd personally have to agree with the statement that they are both crap... but the Aerocool is a level or two _below_ crap IMO... I'd definitely shy away from their products unless you basically just want something 'pretty' in your drive bay without much usefulness.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I didnt mention Lamptron and im certainly no fan boy.


I think it's reasonably implied based on the first part of the post... but that's just my take on it. How's the finger by the way?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> You're talking about watercooling. Everything you'll buy is stuff you don't "need".


By the same token, for most people on here, having anything other than an i3 and 2GB of RAM is unnecessary - it's not medical equipment keeping us alive... although some days it feels almost like it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> My wife constantly shoots me down when I have plans to "go big" with my rig. I dunno how you guys pull off some of the rigs I see in here. Tell me you're secrets.


See Below...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Or the alternative to the "no wife" theory is that the builder (let's assume man, like me) makes 99.999% of the money coming into the household, and the contributions the wife brings are not paid, but extensive in their own right.
> When I want to build or buy a new bike, or another gun or something, I tell her what I'm going to do, and she is usually between nonchalant to dismissive about it, unless I disclose that it will be a ton of money...
> If she ever needs anything; clicky clicky in the bank, she gets the cash she needs and can move about and do what she likes...
> 
> So I guess my scenario is rare and somewhat unique, but not unheard of!
> 
> Thanks - T


This. My wife hasn't worked in years, we have no kids (nor do we want any), and she actually handles all the finances - the _paying bills_ part. I was actually putting off my rig until I paid off the rest of my mortgage, but she convinced me to do it sooner rather than later - and recommended I bump up my budget by a couple grand while I was at it. She's a little less enthusiastic with my projected budget for my home theater build-out... but she hasn't yelled yet so I'm proceeding with caution...


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are a fool,I roll with real toys...
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4 blown Scythe controllers sitting in my spares bin and the Aerocool has poor control of fans.
> I base my comments on actually using these products.
> 
> At what point did i even mention Lamptron?
> 
> Surely there is a GPU pissing contest thread for you to infest?


Wow....................


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> My wife constantly shoots me down when I have plans to "go big" with my rig. I dunno how you guys pull off some of the rigs I see in here. Tell me you're secrets.


Buy first, talk second


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Buy first, talk second


Yep, as they say: "It's better to ask for forgiveness than permission"


----------



## wermad

Love lamptrons but they're getting harder to find. Avoid rip-off G-Vanns. I've had bad luck w/ NZXT controllers but this last "Mix 2" is performing well. Looks like they fixed the first craptastic one. Mesh is a crapshoot too. Make sure you have a good return policy from the store. I've had Scythe Kaze but they're weak and mine over heated. Tried the Akaza, looks like a rebrand from something, and that was crap too.

I bought my Mix 2 from newegg so I had the security of a decent return policy. So far its working out great. You can tell they really went all out (ie insulating the caps) on this one. I like that you can change the led colors. Its 30w per six channels so that's middle of the road. Not like the v1 50w per channel but this one works. I do miss my old Fan-Atics w/ a beefy 60w per five channels but only two mode (12v/7v).


----------



## islandgam3r

I know his name is b negative that's y at beginning of post i said @b negative anyways i know he knows his stuff because ive been following his post since i joined
Remember I'm the watercooling rookie so i have to ask questions i am in no place to question anybody which i didn't all i can say is wat i know and heard


----------



## derickwm

Hmm


----------



## muffyn

For a thread about water cooling, things are getting awfully _heated_ in here.


----------



## pc-illiterate

you guys saw this right?

D5 Dual Bay Reservoir Safety Notice

We have become aware of a fault effecting a small percentage of the first batch of our nylon D5 Dual Bay Reservoir. The issue is caused by the top of the reservoir warping and allowing a tiny gap to open up. In most cases the warping of the top will not cause a leak and is purely a visual issue, but in some cases it can lead to a very slow leak of coolant..
- See more at: http://www.xs-pc.com/d5-dual-bay-reservoir-safety-notice/#sthash.aeX8CMbD.dpuf


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *islandgam3r*
> 
> I know his name is b negative that's y at beginning of post i said @b negative anyways i know he knows his stuff because ive been following his post since i joined
> Remember I'm the watercooling rookie so i have to ask questions i am in no place to question anybody which i didn't all i can say is wat i know and heard


Apologies,i came across harshly.

Question everything,nothing wrong with that,just dont label people as 'fanboys'

PS. B NEGATIVE is my blood type,not my mental outlook,im a happy minded person
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you guys saw this right?
> 
> D5 Dual Bay Reservoir Safety Notice
> 
> We have become aware of a fault effecting a small percentage of the first batch of our nylon D5 Dual Bay Reservoir. The issue is caused by the top of the reservoir warping and allowing a tiny gap to open up. In most cases the warping of the top will not cause a leak and is purely a visual issue, but in some cases it can lead to a very slow leak of coolant..
> - See more at: http://www.xs-pc.com/d5-dual-bay-reservoir-safety-notice/#sthash.aeX8CMbD.dpuf


If you make a alu plate,1.5mm will be enough,copying the top cover and put this on top,screwing thru it,it acts like a stiffener,it stops the warping.
Dunno why they used that ABS (?) TBH.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Love lamptrons but they're getting harder to find. Avoid rip-off G-Vanns. I've had bad luck w/ NZXT controllers but this last "Mix 2" is performing well. Looks like they fixed the first craptastic one. Mesh is a crapshoot too. Make sure you have a good return policy from the store. I've had Scythe Kaze but they're weak and mine over heated. Tried the Akaza, looks like a rebrand from something, and that was crap too.
> 
> I bought my Mix 2 from newegg so I had the security of a decent return policy. So far its working out great. You can tell they really went all out (ie insulating the caps) on this one. I like that you can change the led colors. Its 30w per six channels so that's middle of the road. Not like the v1 50w per channel but this one works. I do miss my old Fan-Atics w/ a beefy 60w per five channels but only two mode (12v/7v).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I, on the other hand, bought my Mix 2 (just realized I have to add that to my sig rig) from FrozenCPU, as it was unavailable from Newegg at the time. Channel four is dead, and due to their RMA policy, I decided that it's much more worth it to stick with a five channel fan controller. Other than that, it's great. However, it is my first fan controller, so I can't really make any comparisons.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> I, on the other hand, bought my Mix 2 (just realized I have to add that to my sig rig) from FrozenCPU, as it was unavailable from Newegg at the time. Channel four is dead, and due to their RMA policy, I decided that it's much more worth it to stick with a five channel fan controller. Other than that, it's great. However, it is my first fan controller, so I can't really make any comparisons.


Sucks about that. I've had about 5 crappy ones (different makes) so far and I've had to eat the cost of four of them. So I know the pain. When I rma'd w/ NZXT, I sent it using a $5 usps flat rate box (barely fits). I got a new controller so if you're willing to send it in with them. You can always fight it and have them prepay the label for you.


----------



## oelkanne

Still few things to do but up and running

The second Card is in Grafiks Heaven now...gonna replace it ... nearly

Any suggestions??


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> I, on the other hand, bought my Mix 2 (just realized I have to add that to my sig rig) from FrozenCPU, as it was unavailable from Newegg at the time. Channel four is dead, and due to their RMA policy, I decided that it's much more worth it to stick with a five channel fan controller. Other than that, it's great. However, it is my first fan controller, so I can't really make any comparisons.
> 
> 
> 
> Sucks about that. I've had about 5 crappy ones (different makes) so far and I've had to eat the cost of four of them. So I know the pain. When I rma'd w/ NZXT, I sent it using a $5 usps flat rate box (barely fits). I got a new controller so if you're willing to send it in with them. You can always fight it and have them prepay the label for you.
Click to expand...

I have 4 scythes,1 fc6,2 fc5's....all dead for no good reason....

The CW611 im running in the SR2 on test for Lamptron seems solid...but for £60 retail,I would expect it to be.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Is it just me or are fan controllers very unreliable lol


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> I, on the other hand, bought my Mix 2 (just realized I have to add that to my sig rig) from FrozenCPU, as it was unavailable from Newegg at the time. Channel four is dead, and due to their RMA policy, I decided that it's much more worth it to stick with a five channel fan controller. Other than that, it's great. However, it is my first fan controller, so I can't really make any comparisons.
> 
> 
> 
> Sucks about that. I've had about 5 crappy ones (different makes) so far and I've had to eat the cost of four of them. So I know the pain. When I rma'd w/ NZXT, I sent it using a $5 usps flat rate box (barely fits). I got a new controller so if you're willing to send it in with them. You can always fight it and have them prepay the label for you.
Click to expand...

Ouch!
One dead Lamptron for me, the NZXT controller I replaced it with also stopped working, so I've sworn off fan controllers for now.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is it just me or are fan controllers very unreliable lol
Click to expand...

They seem unreliable. I have not had the best luck with them when they become anymore detailed then a simple knob. All the ones with the screens seem to have problems for me.


----------



## wermad

With 27 R4s, I really need a controller. I can drop them down to ~5v and they're whisper quiet. I may push them to ~75% when its hot but hell's no I'm running them 100%. It sounds like a dozen hives, angry and coming at you









Controllers, they're getting crappier tbh, but its a gamble. That's why I prefer to buy them from retailers that have a good return policy (ie amazon). Sometimes you do get a good one but it only last around a year.


----------



## AddictedGamer93

My junky sunbeam rheobus caught fire last year. All of the LED's stopped working, and this IC would get extremely hot if I powered the controller, even with no load. I did some research and found out that the IC's (there are two) are simply for controlling the (now dead) LED's, so I just tore the bad IC off the board with some pliars. It still works perfectly, and is actually better than it was new after all of that, since the bright ass LED's are gone. Still dreaming of that elusive Aquaero 5 XT though.


----------



## wermad

The only controller that has been rock solid for me was the Fan-Atic but its only a two voltage mode controller (well technically three if you count 0v/off







).


----------



## pc-illiterate

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/vantecnexusfancontroller/
i bought this 2nd hand off DexNFx. great controller for what i need. 7v to 12v, 4 channels and 15-18watt per channel. too bad its discontinued. i would buy a backup for when/if this dies.

btw, DexNFx is a great guy/seller


----------



## jokrik

I find that i dont have time to use the fan controller
"Im gonna game, ok lets turn it up! "
"Im done ! Ok lets turn it down half way"

I think pwm is the way to go for my next build


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> With 27 R4s, I really need a controller. I can drop them down to ~5v and they're whisper quiet. I may push them to ~75% when its hot but hell's no I'm running them 100%. It sounds like a dozen hives, angry and coming at you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Controllers, they're getting crappier tbh, but its a gamble. That's why I prefer to buy them from retailers that have a good return policy (ie amazon). Sometimes you do get a good one but it only last around a year.


Yikes! I wanted to mention that I used CM R4's exclusively, in my previous build. I bought them on sale at five bucks apiece, from NCIX, and they worked great. But they had some AP-15's on sale a few months later, so I couldn't refuse that for the rad fans.


----------



## freitz

*Night Shot of the MOBO and CPU*


----------



## Deano12345

So it turns out browsing EK's website may not have been the best idea. I basically want one of everything ! Few questions since I'm still trying to sort my build out.

I'm gonna run a 360mm rad up top and a 140 out back. Will that be able to keep my sig rig cool ? Push pull SP120/AF140's for reference.

I'm going with that new EK pump/res I think. That pump won't have any issues will it ? (Everything I've read online in regards to pumps say it's fine)

Are the bitspower fittings worth the extra cost over other compression fittings ? I don't mind spending the extra, but I don't want to throw money away either !


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> So it turns out browsing EK's website may not have been the best idea. I basically want one of everything ! Few questions since I'm still trying to sort my build out.
> 
> I'm gonna run a 360mm rad up top and a 140 out back. Will that be able to keep my sig rig cool ? Push pull SP120/AF140's for reference.
> 
> I'm going with that new EK pump/res I think. That pump won't have any issues will it ? (Everything I've read online in regards to pumps say it's fine)
> 
> Are the bitspower fittings worth the extra cost over other compression fittings ? I don't mind spending the extra, but I don't want to throw money away either !


1- What in your sig rig are you cooling? MOBO CPU AND GPU it will be fine. A good rule of thumb is 120mm of Rad space to start the loop and 120mm of space for each block you add.

2- I moved on to a D5 pump now but I myself started with a EK loop that came in the box. I think most come with the DCP 4.0 pumps they are fine.

3- Fittings are a personal choice the ek ones that come with the starter kit are fine. If I recommend you get anything to start would be better tubing.

Also if you are going to switch out the fittings tubing and pump anyways there is no point on getting one of the kits just read up here in this section on custom loops. People in here will be more then willing to help. We all hard to start somewhere with water cooling.

Good luck


----------



## szeged

Ek doing their own line of hard acrylic and accessories. Gonna try it out


----------



## Deano12345

I wasn't actually looking at the kits, since I figured I'd be adding things to the loop anyway, I'd just make up my own , definitely going to be based off those kits just with a little bit of tweaking.

Plan is to WC just the CPU and GPU's so I'm good there !

The bitspower bits are really expensive relative to pretty much everything so I think the EK ones seem to be a good compromise price wise. I can buy them in euros instead of the bitspower which I'd have to buy in pounds which would cost me even more !. Im still looking at things like fittings.

Plan is to go for the new Primochill LRT tubing in either black or white. From what I've read seems to be very well recommended, plus it looks damn clean









Chances are I'll be posting back in here when I finalise my fittings and stuff to make sure I've got everything right !

Thanks for your help


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Ek doing their own line of hard acrylic and accessories. Gonna try it out


I have their 16mm fittings and its great quality. The fittings are similar in design to the c47s. And they're priced about the same (12mm).

Hmmm....thinking of going 16x10mm acrylic







. Will ponder that


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is it just me or are fan controllers very unreliable lol


Yes and I honestly do not understand why...even the more featured ones are pretty simple devices......


----------



## animal0307

Anyone have experience with switching from 1/2" ID tubing to 3/8" ID? right now I'm running 1/2"x5/8" but was thinking of switching to 3/8"x1/2" No real need to switch just wanted to try something different. Any options/observations are welcome.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Anyone have experience with switching from 1/2" ID tubing to 3/8" ID? right now I'm running 1/2"x5/8" but was thinking of switching to 3/8"x1/2" No real need to switch just wanted to try something different. Any options/observations are welcome.


I went to 3/8 x 5/8 because of the 1/8" thickness of the tubing walls helps with tight bends and kinking.


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Apologies,i came across harshly.
> 
> Question everything,nothing wrong with that,just dont label people as 'fanboys'
> 
> PS. B NEGATIVE is my blood type,not my mental outlook,im a happy minded person
> If you make a alu plate,1.5mm will be enough,copying the top cover and put this on top,screwing thru it,it acts like a stiffener,it stops the warping.
> Dunno why they used that ABS (?) TBH.


No prob man, i wasnt serious wen I said "lamptron fanny" i really just was cracking a joke, i apologize if it insulted u, thought that the "smiley face with tongue out" wud of given it away as a joke


----------



## freitz




----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> I, on the other hand, bought my Mix 2 (just realized I have to add that to my sig rig) from FrozenCPU, as it was unavailable from Newegg at the time. Channel four is dead, and due to their RMA policy, I decided that it's much more worth it to stick with a five channel fan controller. Other than that, it's great. However, it is my first fan controller, so I can't really make any comparisons.


What's wrong with their RMA policy?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> What's wrong with their RMA policy?


Through personal experience and what I've seen from others, these smaller retailers for the most part will not take back any defective items. You'll have to rma w/ the manufacturer. The only times I've seen them take back things is if they sent the wrong item.


----------



## WebsterXC

Frozen takes back all defective items, and fan controllers especially.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Frozen takes back all defective items, and fan controllers especially.


If it arrives bad then they normally do. I think you have only like 5 days or something to return though.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Here's the current shopping cart for my 900D rebuild. Any input on those rads is appreciated, They're mainly the choice because of the theme which is a ROBOCOP themed build - all silver/polished, black and gray. There will be two loops again, but with 4 pumps this time. I'll be modding the case [a little] this time also.



Also 2 of these:



I also may switch to an MSI big bang II motherboard for the all black coloring + the XSPC block


----------



## wermad

Should wait if EK launches the clean bridges, then just go all clean







. Btw, why no Extreme11.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Should wait if EK launches the clean bridges, then just go all clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Btw, why no Extreme11.


Everything will be clean - the CPU block, and ram. I have the titan/780 fc link bridge which is clean, but I'm opting to use the silver bitspower sli links for theme reasons


----------



## skyn3t

I will be getting my mobo today







, I may call sick


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Everything will be clean - the CPU block, and ram. I have the titan/780 fc link bridge which is clean, but I'm opting to use the silver bitspower sli links for theme reasons


Sweet








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I will be getting my mobo today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I may call sick


lol, its very contagious


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmmm....thinking of going 16x10mm acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will ponder that


"Just when I think I'm out....they pull me back in."


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> "Every time I think I'm out....they pull me back in."


Lol, I'm thinking if a thicker wall will allow you some more tighter bends compared to the 1/2x3/8 (or 12x10mm). I surely know the difference between nylon and acrylic but due the same bending principles apply? I had a few pinched lines w/ the 1/2 acrylic and the constant reheating to get those notorious bends caused a few of them to crack.


----------



## Brulf

Wasn't sure if i already posted a pic of my 800D rebuild... but if i did.. i did it again







love this case

couple of small things i have yet to finish but they will be done in my spare time whilst bored


----------



## Jameswalt1

Very nice!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Here's the current shopping cart for my 900D rebuild. Any input on those rads is appreciated, They're mainly the choice because of the theme which is a ROBOCOP themed build - all silver/polished, black and gray. There will be two loops again, but with 4 pumps this time. I'll be modding the case [a little] this time also.
> 
> 
> 
> Also 2 of these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also may switch to an MSI big bang II motherboard for the all black coloring + the XSPC block


Damn. That shopping cart makes me feel poor.


----------



## sn8kedr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> Wasn't sure if i already posted a pic of my 800D rebuild... but if i did.. i did it again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love this case
> 
> couple of small things i have yet to finish but they will be done in my spare time whilst bored


Good lord peeps, am getting ready to post up some pics of my build but after looking at some of the quality builds on here I'm thinking I might just tidy things up a bit lol

Tight as rig bud, very nice indeed!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> Wasn't sure if i already posted a pic of my 800D rebuild... but if i did.. i did it again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love this case
> 
> couple of small things i have yet to finish but they will be done in my spare time whilst bored


Noticed you have an ocz zx psu, how did you get around the caps on the harness'? Looks uber clean, awesome job


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Noticed you have an ocz zx psu, how did you get around the caps on the harness'? Looks uber clean, awesome job


Cut them off... lol turns out there not a necessity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sn8kedr*
> 
> Good lord peeps, am getting ready to post up some pics of my build but after looking at some of the quality builds on here I'm thinking I might just tidy things up a bit lol
> 
> Tight as rig bud, very nice indeed!


Thanks, front side might look tidy but i don't dare post a pic of the backside until i figure out a decent way to manage it lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Very nice!


would have loved a 900D like yours but the wifey couldn't understand the need for something so big







so went with the 800D


----------



## sn8kedr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> Thanks, front side might look tidy but i don't dare post a pic of the backside until i figure out a decent way to manage it lol


Haha yeah - don't you just hate it when your backside is all untidy


----------



## Juthos

And finally the 780's block:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Here's the current shopping cart for my 900D rebuild. Any input on those rads is appreciated, They're mainly the choice because of the theme which is a ROBOCOP themed build - all silver/polished, black and gray. There will be two loops again, but with 4 pumps this time. I'll be modding the case [a little] this time also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also 2 of these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also may switch to an MSI big bang II motherboard for the all black coloring + the XSPC block


If you haven't pulled the trigger yet . . . . . or can change the order . .

I'd go with the copper fins on those rads, or choose different rads.

I use the copper finned 420's paired as 840's in my Stretch build, and since the AMS rads have round tubes with restrictive end caps, you need all the help you can get.

You're on the right track running dual 35X setups with them.

They are not such good rads, mediocre at best, really, from a cooling perspective compared to most others, but they do have a unique look with the stainless steel side panels that may make them particularly suitable from an aesthetic perspective.

Important Point!

Also be aware of their physical size. . . Suckers are huge, and they are the same size, width wise, whether for 120 or 140 fans.

The tubing core is the same for both the 120 and 140 sized rads, . .

It's the side rails that are different, the sides for 120 fans extend further in to mate with the mounting holes, but the overall width is the same as for a very wide 140 rad.

Darlene


----------



## _REAPER_

One more to go


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Here's the current shopping cart for my 900D rebuild. Any input on those rads is appreciated, They're mainly the choice because of the theme which is a ROBOCOP themed build - all silver/polished, black and gray. There will be two loops again, but with 4 pumps this time. I'll be modding the case [a little] this time also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also 2 of these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also may switch to an MSI big bang II motherboard for the all black coloring + the XSPC block
> 
> 
> 
> If you haven't pulled the trigger yet . . . . . or can change the order . .
> 
> I'd go with the copper fins on those rads, or choose different rads.
> 
> I use the copper finned 420's paired as 840's in my Stretch build, and since the AMS rads have round tubes with restrictive end caps, you need all the help you can get.
> 
> You're on the right track running dual 35X setups with them.
> 
> *They are not such good rads, mediocre at best, really, from a cooling perspective compared to most others, but they do have a unique look with the stainless steel side panels that may make them particularly suitable from an aesthetic perspective.*
> 
> Important Point!
> 
> *Also be aware of their physical size. . . Suckers are huge, and they are the same size, width wise, whether for 120 or 140 fans.
> 
> The tubing core is the same for both the 120 and 140 sized rads, . .
> 
> It's the side rails that are different, the sides for 120 fans extend further in to mate with the mounting holes, but the overall width is the same as for a very wide 140 rad.*
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

+1 on both points,they look awesome but perform mid-low end.
They are very good at sub 900rpm and passive tho.

Im using a pair of 240's for my S3 build,on build quality alone.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> What's wrong with their RMA policy?


If I can recall properly, I have to pay for shipping, along with a restocking fee. In the end, I would have to pay something like 15 or 17 dollars (and lose two weeks) to fix a slightly broken $35 fan controller. I can also just use splitters. I do/did have 30 days, though.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> One more to go


Nice!


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I also may switch to an MSI big bang II motherboard for the all black coloring + the XSPC block


Good choice. I have the BBXPII and it works effortlessly.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mmm Fridays.


Good day for ya'll?

Tastes like customers saying "GET THAT TO ME TODAY!!!" here......









On a watercooling note: New radiator for my stupid idea:

That fan's not going in there...



Here's the stupid idea:



Thanks - T


----------



## cyphon

Is that a car rad?????????????

It takes up like a quarter of the case lol


----------



## islandgam3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> One more to go


Very nicceee!!!! Cant wait to get mine, i'm getting two EVGA GTX 4GB 770 Hydro Copper Classifieds for my upcoming build. CANT WAIT!!!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Is that a car rad?????????????
> 
> It takes up like a quarter of the case lol


Silverstone SG05BB case w/ Black Ice Xtreme 120.1 radiator...









Your size ratios were all off 'cause I forgot to put a scale comparison object in the shot!

Thanks - T


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Silverstone SG05BB case w/ Black Ice Xtreme 120.1 radiator...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your size ratios were all off 'cause I forgot to put a scale comparison object in the shot!
> 
> Thanks - T


Lol yeah looked enormous in pic


----------



## gdubc

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you haven't pulled the trigger yet . . . . . or can change the order . .
> 
> I'd go with the copper fins on those rads, or choose different rads.
> 
> I use the copper finned 420's paired as 840's in my Stretch build, and since the AMS rads have round tubes with restrictive end caps, you need all the help you can get.
> 
> You're on the right track running dual 35X setups with them.
> 
> They are not such good rads, mediocre at best, really, from a cooling perspective compared to most others, but they do have a unique look with the stainless steel side panels that may make them particularly suitable from an aesthetic perspective.
> 
> Important Point!
> 
> Also be aware of their physical size. . . Suckers are huge, and they are the same size, width wise, whether for 120 or 140 fans.
> 
> The tubing core is the same for both the 120 and 140 sized rads, . .
> 
> It's the side rails that are different, the sides for 120 fans extend further in to mate with the mounting holes, but the overall width is the same as for a very wide 140 rad.
> 
> Darlene





Thanks for that rad info and +rep to you for it! I had been drooling over the looks of those but they are so expensive I cant see how they would be worth it.


----------



## TampaChaz

Thank the Goddess this week is finally coming to a close! Work has been like riding a psychotic horse toward a burning stable. Of course, I'd be able to handle it all a little better if I wasn't up playing Blacklist until after 2AM every night, but that's a minor detail.








I will post the final and completely finished build pics this weekend. I absolutely LOVE my new rig. It's totally worth the 3 grand, 5+ months and hours of work I put into it. I will post some Temps and OC specs as well. Having the additional window AC unit in my room has made a serious improvement over my past builds. My CPU idle has been steady at 24c and I haven't been able to push it over 36c. The GTX 660s are like 34-36c under load. I just reminded myself that I need to post some benches too....


----------



## Jameswalt1

Thanks Darlene! Particularly on the size info.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1 on both points,they look awesome but perform mid-low end.
> They are very good at sub 900rpm and passive tho.
> 
> Im using a pair of 240's for my S3 build,on build quality alone.


Yeah I chose them for the same reason - the build quality looks stellar and fits the build theme perfectly. With the performance issue in mind, the only alternative looks-wise might be the Watercool HTSF2's - any experience with those?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Dose cards REAPER!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So,while im unable to chop anything up right now,i will have to amuse myself by planning the res.

I came up with this.







The window has a nice chamfer on the raised section to mirror the Aquacomputer GPU blocks,when i first saw those GPU blocks,i wanted them soooooo bad,enough to buy a 780/Titan for that awesome active backplate.

I think it will look mint in there.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Looking good B NEG!

I got a question! How hard is it to get admin approval to list in buy/sell? I haven't met the rep amount... Lurk to much!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Looking good B NEG!
> 
> I got a question! How hard is it to get admin approval to list in buy/sell? I haven't met the rep amount... Lurk to much!


Just gotta up that rep.


----------



## derickwm

You have to have the rep amount, there's no way around it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Thanks Darlene! Particularly on the size info.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1 on both points,they look awesome but perform mid-low end.
> They are very good at sub 900rpm and passive tho.
> 
> Im using a pair of 240's for my S3 build,on build quality alone.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I chose them for the same reason - the build quality looks stellar and fits the build theme perfectly. With the performance issue in mind, the only alternative looks-wise might be the Watercool HTSF2's - any experience with those?
Click to expand...

The build quality is quite good.

They use 3mm fan hardware and have brass inserts for it in the relatively thin stainless steel side panels. Use care during assembly to have the screws aligned properly, as no doubt you could spin the insert if you jam a screw thread.

Also be careful of screw length, as there is no "guard plate" like Alphacool for example.

Depending on what fittings you're using, the threaded end caps may be a slight problem and require 5mm extensions.

They are all recessed slightly so as to allow the use of the pass-thru couplers that allow the rads to be joined modularly, the bore diameter of that recess can be a bit small. I have temp sensors at the rad ports, and need the 5mm extensions at each one.

The heat transformers seem to be about the same kind of setup, so they'd offer about the same performance, and I'd expect they're about the same size, just set up to be used externally.

Darlene


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Just gotta up that rep.


Yeah... I know, but I could swear someone just posted about selling something with mods approval... OH WELL!
Thanks dudes!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I had 2 480s for my SR 2 but they wouldn't fit,not even after threatening them with teh hammer,they went back but I noticed the port issue.
Also look for delrin swarf,mine also had some sort of cutting oil/lube all over the machined plastics.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Good day for ya'll?
> 
> Tastes like customers saying "GET THAT TO ME TODAY!!!" here......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> On a watercooling note: New radiator for my stupid idea:
> 
> That fan's not going in there...
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the stupid idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


More pics please.









Edit: Headed to the build log.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> More pics please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Headed to the build log.


There will be next week, but probably not before then.

That BL is what used to be my CL S3 log, then I decided to split up my builds, and then I decided to just go insane.

I can't wait to show people how I'm gonna do the reservoir...









Thanks - T


----------



## signalpuke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Here's the current shopping cart for my 900D rebuild. Any input on those rads is appreciated, They're mainly the choice because of the theme which is a ROBOCOP themed build - all silver/polished, black and gray. There will be two loops again, but with 4 pumps this time. I'll be modding the case [a little] this time also.
> 
> 
> 
> Also 2 of these:
> 
> 
> 
> I also may switch to an MSI big bang II motherboard for the all black coloring + the XSPC block


Have you thought about using the rads with the integrated pumps?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you haven't pulled the trigger yet . . . . . or can change the order . .
> 
> I'd go with the copper fins on those rads, or choose different rads.
> 
> I use the copper finned 420's paired as 840's in my Stretch build, and since the AMS rads have round tubes with restrictive end caps, you need all the help you can get.
> 
> You're on the right track running dual 35X setups with them.
> 
> They are not such good rads, mediocre at best, really, from a cooling perspective compared to most others, but they do have a unique look with the stainless steel side panels that may make them particularly suitable from an aesthetic perspective.
> 
> Important Point!
> 
> Also be aware of their physical size. . . Suckers are huge, and they are the same size, width wise, whether for 120 or 140 fans.
> 
> The tubing core is the same for both the 120 and 140 sized rads, . .
> 
> It's the side rails that are different, the sides for 120 fans extend further in to mate with the mounting holes, but the overall width is the same as for a very wide 140 rad.
> 
> Darlene


What size pumps, and tubing, do you recommend, for that setup?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1 on both points,they look awesome but perform mid-low end.
> *They are very good at sub 900rpm and passive tho.*
> 
> Im using a pair of 240's for my S3 build,on build quality alone.


Good info, that is what I want out of my next build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,while im unable to chop anything up right now,i will have to amuse myself by planning the res.
> 
> I came up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The window has a nice chamfer on the raised section to mirror the Aquacomputer GPU blocks,when i first saw those GPU blocks,i wanted them soooooo bad,enough to buy a 780/Titan for that awesome active backplate.
> 
> I think it will look mint in there.


That is awesome! I would be interested in buying one if you made another


----------



## tecuarenta

n00b question:

I have seen lots of builds with carbon fiber wrapped radiators. Will it hurt temps or it is negligible?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> n00b question:
> 
> I have seen lots of builds with carbon fiber wrapped radiators. Will it hurt temps or it is negligible?


Not going to make a difference at all.


----------



## kcuestag

Got a package today:

- EK D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal (To get rid of bay reservoir)
- 12x EK CSQ 16/12mm Niquel fittings (To replace the non-branded fittings from Aquatuning)
- 4x 45º EK PSC Niquel adapters
- 4x 90º EK PSC Niquel adapters
- 2x Mayhems Pastel White (250ml Concentrate to mix with 750Ml of DI water)
- 3 meters of Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT 16/11mm clear
- 2x White 3mm LEDs for the CPU block
- Watercool Heatkiller Multi-Link



Sadly the store confused and instead of sending me 16/11 tubing, they sent me 19/13mm tubing, so I couldn't use the new EK fittings and had to use my old 19/13mm fittings, I'll replace them for the new EK 16/12 fittings once the appropiate tubing arrives next week.









Here are a few pictures of the process:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











And here's the final pictures:





I know pictures aren't great (First ones are from the phone), plus it is night time here, I'll do some proper pictures during day time tomorrow. I will also re-do everything next week once I get the appropiate tubing for my new fittings.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Got a package today:
> 
> - EK D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal (To get rid of bay reservoir)
> - 12x EK CSQ 16/12mm Niquel fittings (To replace the non-branded fittings from Aquatuning)
> - 4x 45º EK PSC Niquel adapters
> - 4x 90º EK PSC Niquel adapters
> - 2x Mayhems Pastel White (250ml Concentrate to mix with 750Ml of DI water)
> - 3 meters of Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT 16/11mm clear
> - 2x White 3mm LEDs for the CPU block
> - Watercool Heatkiller Multi-Link
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly the store confused and instead of sending me 16/11 tubing, they sent me 19/13mm tubing, so I couldn't use the new EK fittings and had to use my old 19/13mm fittings, I'll replace them for the new EK 16/12 fittings once the appropiate tubing arrives next week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a few pictures of the process:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the final pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know pictures aren't great (First ones are from the phone), plus it is night time here, I'll do some proper pictures during day time tomorrow. I will also re-do everything next week once I get the appropiate tubing for my new fittings.


You're always changing things in your Switch, gotta say so far I like this revision the best. Looking forward to your better pics.


----------



## tecuarenta

Really tight fit between pump top and graphics card


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You're always changing things in your Switch, gotta say so far I like this revision the best. Looking forward to your better pics.


Hehe, I'm really happy with this reservoir, much quieter than my previous Bay reservoir. I'll get the new tubing next week and do better pictures.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Really tight fit between pump top and graphics card


Yeah, there's not even 1mm of space, it fits just there, next when I get the smaller tubing (16/11mm) I might remove the fan 'support' from the HDD cage so that I get more space between the top and the GPUs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I made a quick and dirty 'playdoh model' ,rather than the full assembly of individual panels that i prefer to do, to have a look at how it fits and looks.



Fits rather well i think.

If anyone wants a full SW assembly of the Caselabs S3 for their own project then let me know,im well over half way finished doing it


----------



## wermad

Will Magoo be attending the conference to further evaluate the new res?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Will Magoo be attending the conference to further evaluate the new res?


He was active in the design stage,he leaves the work to his human lackeys....the punishment for failing his vision is poop in your slippers.....no one wants that.


----------



## wermad




----------



## signalpuke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I made a quick and dirty 'playdoh model' ,rather than the full assembly of individual panels that i prefer to do, to have a look at how it fits and looks.
> 
> 
> 
> Fits rather well i think.
> 
> If anyone wants a full SW assembly of the Caselabs S3 for their own project then let me know,im well over half way finished doing it


Looks great, what is the capacity of it, and how large is it?


----------



## TampaChaz

Let's see how many people can find the issue here....LOL


Sorry...totally OFF TOPIC, just found this funny and yet all too common!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Let's see how many people can find the issue here....LOL


So the open box fan is actually more expensive due to shipping? That's crazy.


----------



## szeged

Rofl 50% of the cost in shipping.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I made a quick and dirty 'playdoh model' ,rather than the full assembly of individual panels that i prefer to do, to have a look at how it fits and looks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fits rather well i think.
> 
> If anyone wants a full SW assembly of the Caselabs S3 for their own project then let me know,im well over half way finished doing it


Oh my...


----------



## skyn3t

I got some new toys today


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I made a quick and dirty 'playdoh model' ,rather than the full assembly of individual panels that i prefer to do, to have a look at how it fits and looks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fits rather well i think.
> 
> If anyone wants a full SW assembly of the Caselabs S3 for their own project then let me know,im well over half way finished doing it


That looks outstanding.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quick question; Do I have to cut the new pads to the exact same shape? Or can I get away with just using a square shape?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question; Do I have to cut the new pads to the exact same shape? Or can I get away with just using a square shape?


If you have a large or enough pad, a good size square to cover the vrm parts is what I do. I try to keep the pieces to a min.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> If I can recall properly, I have to pay for shipping, along with a restocking fee. In the end, I would have to pay something like 15 or 17 dollars (and lose two weeks) to fix a slightly broken $35 fan controller. I can also just use splitters. I do/did have 30 days, though.


You only have to pay a restocking fee if the item is being returned, not defective. 95% of the time customers send back fully working items.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I made a quick and dirty 'playdoh model' ,rather than the full assembly of individual panels that i prefer to do, to have a look at how it fits and looks.
> 
> 
> 
> Fits rather well i think.
> 
> If anyone wants a full SW assembly of the Caselabs S3 for their own project then let me know,im well over half way finished doing it


Might I suggest a silver frame around your window on the side panel, so that the frame and window tie in with your custom Aqua computer fan control/res?

MetallicAcid


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you have a large or enough pad, a good size square to cover the vrm parts is what I do. I try to keep the pieces to a min.


Cool, So I take it there is no concern with the pads shorting something out? Are the pads non-conductive and have no capacitance value?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Cool, So I take it there is no concern with the pads shorting something out? Are the pads non-conductive and have no capacitance value?


Pads are non conductive( especially so when dealing with the vrm). Make sure you cover the vrm with the pad. I really don't like to skimp on them since one touch w/ the block can short and kill your gpu.

The vram has always had the option to use tim *but* it really depends on the thickness of the pad required for your block. Say your block only needs 0.5mm thick pad on the vram, then you can use tim. Personally, I would stay away from this option, and just use a nice strip of pad to cover the vram chips. Its also quite messy using tim on the vram. Keep it for the core









If you need extra pad, the usual retailers have some. I buy mine from ebay through Chinese sellers as you can buy huge pads for a few $$s. Just takes a few weeks though.


----------



## soul801

Just finished with my new build


----------



## wermad

Sweet acrylic setup there


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet acrylic setup there


You helped me with a lot of my questions, so thank you and B NEGATIVE for the guide.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> You helped me with a lot of my questions, so thank you and B NEGATIVE for the guide.


Np









Is that the 540???


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Np
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the 540???


It sure is!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet acrylic setup there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You helped me with a lot of my questions, so thank you and B NEGATIVE for the guide.
Click to expand...











Looks really good!

I had that avatar for a long time.....


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks really good!
> 
> I had that avatar for a long time.....


Thank you, I probably got it from you lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> It sure is!


Damn, really like that case







. Gonna keep my lil o' 900d


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, really like that case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gonna keep my lil o' 900d


I had the 800d for along time, needed a change. But love your 900d looks good and I like the color theam. Do you still wish you went with acrylic? I know you said your wife would just cut you off if the acrylic leaked.


----------



## Killa Cam

im debating on a getting a second mcp35x to run in serial. the only problem is that there isn't a dual ddc top for my needs. since ek hasn't made a csq dual ddc top, i was wondering if i could run them in serial still with single csq ddc top.


----------



## Ehpik

Finally finished my build.


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ehpik*
> 
> Finally finished my build.


Nice, what fans are you running?


----------



## Ehpik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Nice, what fans are you running?


Rosewill's and the rear fan is Apevia (I'm a bit disappointed in the Apevia fan. The Rosewill's are amazing, though. I'm actually really surprised how well they're doing).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> I had the 800d for along time, needed a change. But love your 900d looks good and I like the color theam. Do you still wish you went with acrylic? I know you said your wife would just cut you off if the acrylic leaked.


I would but I can't make those tight bends. I would need to make some elaborate runs to avoid those bends. I'm quite happy w/ the nylon tube and most importantly, so is the missus


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Just finished with my new build


External PSU?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> External PSU?


Its in the other chamber behind the mb:



http://www.corsair.com/us/pc-cases/carbide-series-pc-case/carbide-series-air-540-high-airflow-atx-cube-case.html


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its in the other chamber behind the mb:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/pc-cases/carbide-series-pc-case/carbide-series-air-540-high-airflow-atx-cube-case.html


Aha, perspective of the shot weirded me out


----------



## dumbazz

Your Fittings .I`m wondering what they are?


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumbazz*
> 
> Your Fittings .I`m wondering what they are?


Mine are Rigid Ghost Compression fittings


----------



## kcuestag

Here are some pictures with day light:









That's it for now, I'll recieve the proper tubing (16/11mm) next week and then I'll install the new EK CSQ Nickel fittings (And get of my cheap non-branded fittings







) I recieved yesterday, which look awesome!


----------



## derickwm

Lookin good, glad it fit well for you


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lookin good, glad it fit well for you


It fit just perfectly by less than 1mm, I didn't measure before buying it.









Might remove the fan 'support' on the HDD cage that way I get more space between GPU's and the top/res.









Either ways it looks great, and it bleed my loop within seconds, the sponge+anti-cyclone is awesome, I'm running both.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pads are non conductive( especially so when dealing with the vrm). Make sure you cover the vrm with the pad. I really don't like to skimp on them since one touch w/ the block can short and kill your gpu.
> 
> The vram has always had the option to use tim *but* it really depends on the thickness of the pad required for your block. Say your block only needs 0.5mm thick pad on the vram, then you can use tim. Personally, I would stay away from this option, and just use a nice strip of pad to cover the vram chips. Its also quite messy using tim on the vram. Keep it for the core
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need extra pad, the usual retailers have some. I buy mine from ebay through Chinese sellers as you can buy huge pads for a few $$s. Just takes a few weeks though.


I guess I overkill it a bit because I use a dot of TIM on each chip and then the cut pad on top of that. The TIM helps hold the pads in place so they don't slide off while you're wrestling the block in place and it gives a little extra contact assurance. Just don't go nuts or you'll have a freakin' mess on your hands ( and the board, the table, your shirt, your pants, the computer )


----------



## cyphon

The new gpu blocks are here! Gotta say I love the clear acrylic. Once again, great work ek!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I guess I overkill it a bit because I use a dot of TIM on each chip and then the cut pad on top of that. The TIM helps hold the pads in place so they don't slide off while you're wrestling the block in place and it gives a little extra contact assurance. Just don't go nuts or you'll have a freakin' mess on your hands ( and the board, the table, your shirt, your pants, the computer )


Best to use a strip to avoid the hassle of smaller individual pieces that can start moving. I know some will use tim to hold them in place but through experience buying used blocks that were done like this, it ends up tearing the pad. If you're careful, the pad included can be cut into several strips to cover things. I have a bunch of pad that i ordered from ebay so had plenty in case the stock pad was short (going w/ long pieces). For the third Titan block i bought new, it was barely enough but I made it work using large pieces.


----------



## wermad

More pics, love this Sunset Yellow pastel XD


----------



## stickg1

Yeah that looks sweet. I still haven't decided between red dye, pastel red, or pastel white. I have a Midi R2 and ROG board, so red or white would look decent.

I'm waiting on my new GPU to come. Then I got new fittings to ditch that reducer, and I got some undersize tubing (7/16" over 1/2" barbs) so I can ditch the hose clamps.

I can't decide on dye/coolant though.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> More pics, love this Sunset Yellow pastel XD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Agreed!







I ran that good stuff in my rig when it was under water. It sure pops.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

ok so finally got my build finish..no more updates for a while lol...let me know what yall think


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> ok so finally got my build finish..no more updates for a while lol...let me know what yall think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great. You've got a good balance of green black and yellow in there. I really like what you've done with the waterblock too even though I am not Jamaican.









If you had some sleeved cables and all water blocks matching the middle block it would look even better! I love that avexir Mpower themed memory. I really wish it was available in Canada and I would totally have used it in my build.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

thank bro!!... i agree the nickel plated block would look much better.. i though about sleeving the psu it's still on the table though, i know it will make everything cleaner for sure.


----------



## signalpuke

Love the use of fittings, everything is setup perfectly


----------



## jamaican voodoo

thank you bro!!. i'm happy with the way it turn out....though theirs are few thing i would like to change but overall i'm quite please with it.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The new gpu blocks are here! Gotta say I love the clear acrylic. Once again, great work ek!


CSQ bridge is only compatible with CSQ blocks :/


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> CSQ bridge is only compatible with CSQ blocks :/


Just found that out the hard way lol

No worries, I will just run some acrylic between em









Now I guess I gotta decide on series or parallel...I think parallel will look nicer, but I'm a little worried bout the flow in parallel (using a mcp350 and will have just the gpus and 2 240 rads on the loop)


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just found that out the hard way lol
> 
> No worries, I will just run some acrylic between em


----------



## IT Diva

* * Geek Alert * *

As most of you who've followed my build logs know, I've shelled out not an insignificant pile of $$ looking for just the right controller / display for the current builds.

I've got a pair of FC 9's, a pair of CW611's, three Phobya Max Guide 6's, and most recently the little Reeven 6 Eyes.

I was going to post a little review of the MaxGuide 6 and the 6 Eyes, but as I started taking some pics and seeing how the new 6 eyes works, . . . .

It struck me that the Max Guide while rated at 36W per channel, has no output transistors, heatsinks, coils, or capacitors that you'd normally expect.

I found that intriguing, and set out to see how it could do what it does without those parts.

I looked up the big chips on the PCB, and the ones with markings are just VFD display driver chips.

There are a pair with all markings removed, however, and that was even more mysterious, so off to the lab I went.

The only way this could work is if they use something akin to a PWM buck converter.

Putting a multi meter on the output to check voltage revealed that without any load, either a fan or resistor, the voltage stayed at ~12V regardless of the control setting.

That's a sure tip off that they're doing things differently . . .

As soon as a load was attached, the multi meter showed ~0.5V in the OFF position, and at the lowest speed attainable, about 5V, scaling nicely to ~12V at max setting.

I also determined that the output is referenced to the system's gnd, as opposed to being referenced to the +12V line which is common with the Lamptron controllers.

Then I put the frequency counter and scope on the output to dig a little deeper . . . .

And here it got totally unique.

With the control at zero, where the display reads "OFF", there's almost zero DC output, maybe a couple tenths of a volt or so.

As the control is increased just to its minimum point above OFF, the output jumps up to 4V DC level . . . With an 8V PWM rider.

The PWM frequency measures at 45.4 to 45.5 Hz.

You can see in this pic, that the output voltage on the multimeter, (yellow one) is showing 4.62V . . . . The duty cycle of the PWM pulse is 11.9 % (gray multimeter), . . . . The frequency is 45.4 Hz, . . . The scope trace has it's zero at the first horizontal line up from the bottom, with a 2V per division vertical setting.

You can see the PWM pulse adds to a 4V base and extends 4 divisions (8V) up to the 12V mark.



The output range from about 4V to 12V is directly proportional to the pulse width, which seems to control the 7.4V over a range of 88% that adds to the base 4.6V that comes at the minimum of ~12%.

What the h3ll does this mean to me, and how is it related to water cooling, you're asking yourself . . . . . . .

And here. I believe is the answer . . .

Most all of us would like to be able to control pump speed easily and on the fly.

Most pumps do not respond very well to speed control from analog voltage output fan controllers, at least not below about 8V, which is often a lot higher RPM than we'd like.

I don't have a plain jane fixed speed pump to test with, but I'll go out on a limb here and predict that using this controller to control pump speed will work really well with any non-PWM pump.

Not as well as a real PWM pump, but damned decently.

Hope some of you find this interesting;

Darlene

Here's a few pics as I raise the output voltage . . . you can see the fan RPM increase and the pulse width increase.

Here's a better pic of the baseline minimum output:



About 25% output:



About 50% output:



About 75%:



Almost at max, ~99%:



And at max, 100%:


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Agreed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran that good stuff in my rig when it was under water. It sure pops.


wait, what's with the past tense







?

EDIT: +Rep for that post IT Diva. I read it from start to end


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> wait, what's with the past tense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> EDIT: +Rep for that post IT Diva. I read it from start to end


I got really tired of the massive size of the 810 and moved down to something smaller and went back to air. While conceptualizing and building that rig was super fun water just isn't for me. I like to change my parts and tinker far too often.

I still love to browse this thread and see all the goodies though. Loving the rigid acrylic tubing that has become oh so popular as of late.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I got really tired of the massive size of the 810 and moved down to something smaller and went back to air. While conceptualizing and building that rig was super fun water just isn't for me. I like to change my parts and tinker far too often.
> 
> I still love to browse this thread and see all the goodies though. Loving the rigid acrylic tubing that has become oh so popular as of late.


What a shame, really loved what you'd done







.

(off to find pictures of your smaller case and all)


----------



## SortOfGrim

Is it possible to use (red arrow) this port as a return line?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> ok so finally got my build finish..no more updates for a while lol...let me know what yall think


Nice setup man! What size is you front radiator? I'm wanting to do a push/pull config in the front of my case also. I like how yours lines up nicely underneath the 5.25 bays.


----------



## kcuestag

Please only quote one picture per quote... Put the rest of them on a SPOILER.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

@ pimphare thanks bro!! the rad is alpha cool monsta 240 it's 80mm thick!!! so make sure you have the space for it especially if you doing push/pull, i love the rad it's does it job well.


----------



## kcuestag

Here's the red Primoflex Advanced LRT I was using for 4-5 months:



I compared it to some new red tubing I had left on the box from the time I bough it and it looked exactly the same, really nice to finally see plasticizer-free tubing.


----------



## Alex132

I've been running the same loop, no draining etc. Primochill LRT since Jan.
No clouding nothing, I mean... is there even a point to draining etc. at this stage?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> @ pimphare thanks bro!! the rad is alpha cool monsta 240 it's 80mm thick!!! so make sure you have the space for it especially if you doing push/pull, i love the rad it's does it job well.


Wo! That is big! I have plenty of room in my case so I don't think it'd be a problem. I'd like to get a thick 200mm rad if I can find one. I have a Corsair Obsidian 650D case btw.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Just finished with my new build


Nice!








Did you use a heat gun on the acrylic tubing? I've been thinking about buying some acrylic tubing, but I don't have a heat gun. I was wondering if there might be another method.


----------



## Solonowarion

Thanks for that Darlene. Good. Read.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Thanks for that Darlene. Good. Read.


Thanks,

And it just sort of occurred to me that I may be able to pick off just 5V of the PWM part of the output, which would then be able to control any 4 wire PWM fan or pump. . . . .

That is if they'll run OK with a 45Hz PWM frequency instead of the 25,000Hz that's standard.

That would be really effin' cool . . . .









Let you know if it works in a couple hours or so . . .

Darlene


----------



## MrGrievous

Awesome stuff there Diva, thanks for the info!!!!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Help!! Does anyone know where I can get one of these... and who makes them?? I'm at a loss in my head for a proper search string to use.











Saw that _kingchris_ is using one on his new build

I wanna use one on this 650D so I can run a push/pull without having to miss-align the rad. So perfect, even if I have to mod a bit to make it work after cutting the grill out of the case. I don't have the tools to fabricate anything like this that would satisfy my OCD. My build is already ugly as it is.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Agreed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran that good stuff in my rig when it was under water. It sure pops.


still love your build


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Help!! Does anyone know where I can get one of these... and who makes them?? I'm at a loss in my head for a proper search string to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw that _kingchris_ is using one on his new build
> 
> I wanna use one on this 650D so I can run a push/pull without having to miss-align the rad. So perfect, even if I have to mod a bit to make it work after cutting the grill out of the case. I don't have the tools to fabricate anything like this that would satisfy my OCD. My build is already ugly as it is.


They've been around for a while:

Koolance

I've used them before, great stuff


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They've been around for a while:
> 
> Koolance
> 
> I've used them before, great stuff


AHH!!! +1 Thanks!!!!


----------



## kingchris

^ glad you found it.

good work as always Diva.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you use a heat gun on the acrylic tubing? I've been thinking about buying some acrylic tubing, but I don't have a heat gun. I was wondering if there might be another method.


A heat gun is like $25 and definitely needed.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A heat fun is like $25 and definitely needed.


^ this

You don't need a real fancy or expensive one with temp controlour anything. Get the simple 1 or 2 speed ones. Ppcs actually carries some so you can order one with your other parts


----------



## sn8kedr

Hi Lads - quick post of my current rig - will be changing the tubing to rigid at some point to tidy things up a bit. But this is it as it stands for the moment.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

great job man!! its real simple and clean


----------



## sn8kedr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> great job man!! its real simple and clean


Thanks mate. Could be cleaner but will do until I start the new build soon in a DD Double Wide 21 case


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> ok so finally got my build finish..no more updates for a while lol...let me know what yall think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Killer ball valve dude! Awesome!


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you use a heat gun on the acrylic tubing? I've been thinking about buying some acrylic tubing, but I don't have a heat gun. I was wondering if there might be another method.


I sure did. I used PORTER-CABLE PC1500HG 1500-Watt Heat Gun got it from Amazon for $35. I don't think there is another method, someone tried a mold but it burnt.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

@ MykaAurora thanks bro!!!... the valve work like a charm the bitspower valve is way too expensive for my liking, i paid 6 dallors at homedepot for it....i approve it for use of watercooling lol


----------



## wermad

Got mine at harbortools for $10. Its a 1500w unit too and was great at heating the acrylic tube to bend it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Thanks for that Darlene. Good. Read.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> And it just sort of occurred to me that I may be able to pick off just 5V of the PWM part of the output, which would then be able to control any 4 wire PWM fan or pump. . . . .
> 
> That is if they'll run OK with a 45Hz PWM frequency instead of the 25,000Hz that's standard.
> 
> That would be really effin' cool . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let you know if it works in a couple hours or so . . .
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I'm encouraged









I was able to pick off just the PWM part of the output, and limit it to 5V so that it matches the voltage for a standard PWM signal.

Better yet, it only took a few passive parts and can be simplified a bit more with a 7V zener diode.

Naturally, I'll have to order some since all I have close are 5.1V ones, necessitating a divider network to knock down the 6.9V to 5V.

To test so far, I used a PWM CPU fan to see what kind of results I got since the PWM frequency from the controller is only ~45Hz, and PWM devices are normally run with a 25KHz PWM frequency.

I got nice linear speed control with the fan powered from a 12V molex and controlled by the 45Hz PWM component of the controller's output.

The controller displays the RPM just fine as well.

I'll let it run a while tomorrow morning while I have my coffee and decide whether to try it on a pair of $100 pumps.

I'll post an update with pics in the morning,

Darlene


----------



## gdubc

Thanks for that info, Darlene....been waiting for your post cuz i am a geek like that.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Have you guys seen THIS!!??













Has to be the most impressive custom case build log ever. Not to mention a DREAM of a case for many of us... it's almost too perfect.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys got a couple questions for you....Which of these kits would be the better buy and why..?http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=24227.And also would any of these kits plus a 200mm phobya extreme be enough to cool both gpu's plus cpu..?..Thanks for any help in advance....http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=24227......http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=24225


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I've been running the same loop, no draining etc. Primochill LRT since Jan.
> No clouding nothing, I mean... is there even a point to draining etc. at this stage?


Depending on the time frame there is always a point to draining and cleaning - as well as flushing and replacing your coolant/water. The primary reason is that even if your tubing isn't clouding you might still have some sediment (although not placticizer at least) in your blocks - although if you log cooling performance you can safely rule out the need to completely dissasemble and reassemble your loop. As long as everything appears to be just as efficient as it was when you started, it's reasonable to assume you have no clogging or corrosion. However, depending on what coolant you use, and how confident you are with your loop's integrity - I still think at least a bi-annual drain, clean, flush, and refill is a good practice... because otherwise a small leak or problem with the coolant might go unnoticed until it's terminal.







YMMV naturally.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> And it just sort of occurred to me that I may be able to pick off just 5V of the PWM part of the output, which would then be able to control any 4 wire PWM fan or pump. . . . .
> 
> That is if they'll run OK with a 45Hz PWM frequency instead of the 25,000Hz that's standard.
> 
> That would be really effin' cool . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let you know if it works in a couple hours or so . . .
> 
> Darlene


Great observation and research...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Have you guys seen THIS!!??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has to be the most impressive custom case build log ever. Not to mention a DREAM of a case for many of us... it's almost too perfect.


Looks really great, although there already is a line of cases that's almost too perfect... they're called Case Labs.







This looks fantastic however - is there a log? I'm curious how much the fabrication and anodizing wound up costing... it might wind up being more expensive than even a very pricey boutique case.









Edited for silly grammar mistakes.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Looks really great, although there already is a line of cases that's almost too perfect... they're called Case Labs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks fantastic however - is there a log? I'm curious how much the fabrication and anodizing wound up costing... it might wind up being more expensive than even a very pricey boutique case.


Yeah, the link is in my first sentence.... in the word "THIS"


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Yeah, the link is in my first sentence.... in the word "THIS"


Yup I'm an idiot... or at least blind. I saw the imgur link and assumed it was just more pictures... I just came back to edit my post but you'd already replied.







Damn ninjas...









Yeah, I think it's safe to say the cost of that case is way over what a even a high-end boutique case would run... but the results are indeed beyond belief... nearly flawless in fact:


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys got a couple questions for you....Which of these kits would be the better buy and why..?http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=24227.And also would any of these kits plus a 200mm phobya extreme be enough to cool both gpu's plus cpu..?..Thanks for any help in advance....http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=24227......http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=24225


The second link, the one with the d5, is better because it has a better pump. Also the kit plus the 200mm rad should be enough to cool a cpu and two gpus


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Yup I'm an idiot... or at least blind. I saw the imgur link and assumed it was just more pictures... I just came back to edit my post but you'd already replied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn ninjas...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I think it's safe to say the cost of that case is way over what a even a high-end boutique case would run... but the results are indeed beyond belief... nearly flawless in fact:


Uhh what case is this and is there more pics?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Yup I'm an idiot... or at least blind. I saw the imgur link and assumed it was just more pictures... I just came back to edit my post but you'd already replied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn ninjas...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I think it's safe to say the cost of that case is way over what a even a high-end boutique case would run... but the results are indeed beyond belief... nearly flawless in fact:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uhh what case is this and is there more pics?
Click to expand...

It's a scratch case meaning the whole case was custom built from scratch


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> It's a scratch case meaning the whole case was custom built from scratch


This... and the link to all of the pics from start to finish are in the link B3L13V3R posted 3 posts above mine.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Cheers Wermad for your help













But I will have to dismantle and buy new pads







Whilst putting the backing plate on, some of the VRM pads have moved. But this will happen when I get the EVGA backing plate I think.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just needing some help on thermal conduction;

what is a better pad for transferring heat;

China pad Thermal conductivity: 3.2W/mK.

or

Phobya Thermalpad Ultra 5W/mk

Both are 1mm thick. So do I want a lower or higher thermal conductivity?


----------



## armageddong7

*CORSAIR HX Series HX1050 1050W
Asus Maximus IV Extreme
Intel Core i7-4770K @3.50GHz OC @4.8GHz
ASUS GeForce® GTX 770 DirectCU II
Corsair Dominator GT 16GB DDR3-2133MHz
Kingston HyperX 3K SSD 120GB
Seagate 3TB Barracuda 7200.12 ST3000DM001 SATA III 7200rpm 64MB*


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just needing some help on thermal conduction;
> 
> what is a better pad for transferring heat;
> 
> China pad Thermal conductivity: 3.2W/mK.
> 
> or
> 
> Phobya Thermalpad Ultra 5W/mk
> 
> Both are 1mm thick. So do I want a lower or higher thermal conductivity?


The higher the better


----------



## Alex132

I've been running the same loop, no draining etc. Primochill LRT since Jan.
No clouding nothing, I mean... is there even a point to draining etc. at this stage?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> I sure did. I used PORTER-CABLE PC1500HG 1500-Watt Heat Gun got it from Amazon for $35. I don't think there is another method, someone tried a mold but it burnt.


Yeah, I suppose I'd just get the proper tools and do it right the first time. I'll be water cooling my new build soon and it'll be my first WC'd system. I've been leaning towards Primochills acrylic tubing as it looks really nice and clean.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just got back from i 49,good to see Tom and Sub there along with the Specialtech forum guys,Coolmiester,Namron and the hammer flinger Skully,plus the PARVUM guys (you should see the cases they dont show the world...)

Anyway...
I want to fill that gap under the res,I think a touch screen will do very nicely..this one to be precise.
http://www.lilliputuk.com/monitors/open-frame/of701/

I will lose around 5mm around the sides and bottom of the screen but i can just resize the display to suit.



Grills cut in the doors to match the existing S3 slotwork.

My hand cant heal fast enough im telling you.


----------



## Dragoon

Can you guys recommend me the best clear tubing to use with Mayhems pastel coolants? (3/8 ID 1/2 OD)

Most important is that it doesn't get fogged/colored from the coolant over time. I heard that tubing has to be free of plasticizers, right?

I was looking at Primochill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced...


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> Can you guys recommend me the best clear tubing to use with Mayhems pastel coolants? (3/8 ID 1/2 OD)
> 
> Most important is that it doesn't get fogged/colored from the coolant over time. I heard that tubing has to be free of plasticizers, right?
> 
> I was looking at Primochill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced...


Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT. Your welcome









Kcuestag posted his red tubing over on the Plasticizer thread, and the Advanced LRT showed absolutely no signs of plasticizer even 4-5 months after continuous use (according to his post).


----------



## Egami

Primochill's LRT Advanced seems to be keeping itself clear. Another alternative is always to use rigid acrylic. Tygon and old Primochill will pretty much cloud for sure.

Edit: Late


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> After debating with myself and getting some info here and there I....I...i...I...i...I
> *[Case Mod] BHD Corsair 800D Upgrade/Mod Continues. Part II*
> dang I could not resist anymore. I pulled the trigger on ASUS MAXIMUS VI FORMULA Next step is getting a 4770k and delide it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ wermad , I think you just spread some contagious buying things on me


That would looks so good underwater...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT. Your welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kcuestag posted his red tubing over on the Plasticizer thread, and the Advanced LRT showed absolutely no signs of plasticizer even 4-5 months after continuous use (according to his post).


Yeah, here it after 4-5 months:



No signs of plasticizer at all, it looks as good as new, and it surprised me because some days we have ambients of +40ºC and the water in my loop was near 50ºC.


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT. Your welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kcuestag posted his red tubing over on the Plasticizer thread, and the Advanced LRT showed absolutely no signs of plasticizer even 4-5 months after continuous use (according to his post).


Awesome









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Primochill's LRT Advanced seems to be keeping itself clear. Another alternative is always to use rigid acrylic. Tygon and old Primochill will pretty much cloud for sure.
> 
> Edit: Late


Thanks for the input







I wanted to use acrylic tubing... but I don't feel confident enough lol...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah, here it after 4-5 months:
> 
> 
> 
> No signs of plasticizer at all, it looks as good as new, and it surprised me because some days we have ambients of +40ºC and the water in my loop was near 50ºC.


Sweet just what I wanted to read







That piece of tubing looks as new!

I was kind of in a doubt since on Mayhems website it says to not use with Tygon or Primochill... But I guess that was with the old ones. Heh, they do sell some really flexible Tygon tubing, apparently without any kind of plasticizer...

Thanks everyone.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That would looks so good underwater...


As long as you don't use the stock *aluminum* vrm block Asus has decided to include. EK should be coming along some time soon with their block.


----------



## IT Diva

* * * Serious Geek Alert * * *

This post is an update to the really interesting discovery I ran across and detailed in this post:

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48470#post_20676443

In short, the Phobya Maxguide6 dual bay controller has a really unique output, whereby once turned above the minimum or OFF position, (where there's only a few tenths of a volt output) there's a 4VDC base voltage, and an 8V PWM rider that starts at about 10% and increases to 100% as you turn the control to maximum position.

It's a very low PWM frequency, only 45.4Hz, but it is PWM.

I thought it might be interesting to see if I could pick off 5V of the PWM and use it as the control signal to control a regular PWM controlled fan or pump that takes its power from a PSU molex.

I posted here that I had pretty good luck with my initial attempt to do so, but some refinement was needed:

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48500#post_20678661

The one issue was that the Maxguide6 needs a significant load before it produces a decent looking pulse shape, which prompted a RadioShack run this morning.

With a minimal load, the trailing edge of the pulse drags out instead of cutting off cleanly which effectively makes it behave as a wider pulse width percentage than it is.

That yields a higher effective output voltage and higher speeds on whatever it's running.

One of the prime reasons for using PWM devices is to gain lower operating speeds and better low speed control and start up.

With that concept in mind I worked up a little adapter board that takes the Maxguide 6 output, picks off 5V of PWM and conditions the pulse shape by adding a resistive load, which then can be used as the PWM control signal for normal 4 pin PWM fans or pumps.

To give you some more details, here's the pics:

These first few show the actual output of the Maxguide6, before splitting out the PWM component.

Basic test bench setup;

The scope is showing the 4V base with the 10% duty cycle 8V PWM rider. The effective voltage is 4.6V on the yellow meter and the fan rpm is 750. . . . With the 3W fan and a 7W resistor pack attached, the wave form is pretty fair.



Now here's the same setup with the load resistor plugged out:

Fan is at 1020RPM, voltage is showing at 5.7V, PW showing at 19.5%, The trailing edge of the pulse is badly drawn out, not nicely cut off.



Here's a close up to show the details:



And here's a close up with the load resistors plugged back in:

The effective voltage is back where it should be, along with the PW percentage and the fan RPM



These next few pics show the picked off PWM component of the output.

The little board loads the output to shape up the PWM pulse, and then a zener diode is used to drop out the first 5.1V, so all that's left is 7V of pulse, which a resistive divider then gives me the 5V needed.

Here's the little board:



Here's the 5V PWM signal; The shape is nice and clean, 11% duty cycle, and an effective voltage of 4.6V

The PWM cpu fan speed is 1260RPM, which is really close to the 1200 RPM minimum that it gives from an actual 0% pulse width.



Since it seemed like everything was working surprisingly well, controlling well at 45Hz where the norm would be 25KHz, I plugged up the Maxguide6 and the little board to one of my dual 35X setups, hoping like h3ll that I wasn't blowing $200 down the tubes . . . . .

Damn this was an awesome hack, works fine, with the lowest I can get at ~1600RPM . . . and of course it maxes out easily.



The really cool thing here is that with one controller, you could control all your rad fans (36W per channel) and with one little board, you could use another channel to control a PWM 35X or D5.

Hope you found this interesting

Darlene


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 
> 
> I've been running the same loop, no draining etc. Primochill LRT since Jan.
> No clouding nothing, I mean... is there even a point to draining etc. at this stage?


is anyone going to answer me?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> is anyone going to answer me?


You aren't getting a answer because usually most people see a picture and move on. But to answer your question, if its not Primochill LRT I would drain and check for plasticizer. If it is, I would just leave it alone.


----------



## ginger_nuts

IT Diva that is one awesome find


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> * * * Serious Geek Alert * * *
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This post is an update to the really interesting discovery I ran across and detailed in this post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48470#post_20676443
> 
> In short, the Phobya Maxguide6 dual bay controller has a really unique output, whereby once turned above the minimum or OFF position, (where there's only a few tenths of a volt output) there's a 4VDC base voltage, and an 8V PWM rider that starts at about 10% and increases to 100% as you turn the control to maximum position.
> 
> It's a very low PWM frequency, only 45.4Hz, but it is PWM.
> 
> I thought it might be interesting to see if I could pick off 5V of the PWM and use it as the control signal to control a regular PWM controlled fan or pump that takes its power from a PSU molex.
> 
> I posted here that I had pretty good luck with my initial attempt to do so, but some refinement was needed:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48500#post_20678661
> 
> The one issue was that the Maxguide6 needs a significant load before it produces a decent looking pulse shape, which prompted a RadioShack run this morning.
> 
> With a minimal load, the trailing edge of the pulse drags out instead of cutting off cleanly which effectively makes it behave as a wider pulse width percentage than it is.
> 
> That yields a higher effective output voltage and higher speeds on whatever it's running.
> 
> One of the prime reasons for using PWM devices is to gain lower operating speeds and better low speed control and start up.
> 
> With that concept in mind I worked up a little adapter board that takes the Maxguide 6 output, picks off 5V of PWM and conditions the pulse shape by adding a resistive load, which then can be used as the PWM control signal for normal 4 pin PWM fans or pumps.
> 
> To give you some more details, here's the pics:
> 
> These first few show the actual output of the Maxguide6, before splitting out the PWM component.
> 
> Basic test bench setup;
> 
> The scope is showing the 4V base with the 10% duty cycle 8V PWM rider. The effective voltage is 4.6V on the yellow meter and the fan rpm is 750. . . . With the 3W fan and a 7W resistor pack attached, the wave form is pretty fair.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the same setup with the load resistor plugged out:
> 
> Fan is at 1020RPM, voltage is showing at 5.7V, PW showing at 19.5%, The trailing edge of the pulse is badly drawn out, not nicely cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close up to show the details:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a close up with the load resistors plugged back in:
> 
> The effective voltage is back where it should be, along with the PW percentage and the fan RPM
> 
> 
> 
> These next few pics show the picked off PWM component of the output.
> 
> The little board loads the output to shape up the PWM pulse, and then a zener diode is used to drop out the first 5.1V, so all that's left is 7V of pulse, which a resistive divider then gives me the 5V needed.
> 
> Here's the little board:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the 5V PWM signal; The shape is nice and clean, 11% duty cycle, and an effective voltage of 4.6V
> 
> The PWM cpu fan speed is 1260RPM, which is really close to the 1200 RPM minimum that it gives from an actual 0% pulse width.
> 
> 
> 
> Since it seemed like everything was working surprisingly well, controlling well at 45Hz where the norm would be 25KHz, I plugged up the Maxguide6 and the little board to one of my dual 35X setups, hoping like h3ll that I wasn't blowing $200 down the tubes . . . . .
> 
> Damn this was an awesome hack, works fine, with the lowest I can get at ~1600RPM . . . and of course it maxes out easily.
> 
> 
> 
> The really cool thing here is that with one controller, you could control all your rad fans (36W per channel) and with one little board, you could use another channel to control a PWM 35X or D5.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you found this interesting
> 
> Darlene


Interesting sure but not really required,pump control is superfluous and nothing that a normal controller cant do,35x excepted.
Just set the pump to the most acceptable noise level and forget it.
Great bit of work tho.
This would be better posted in the controllers thread (did it make it over from the migration? im not sure)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> * * * Serious Geek Alert * * *
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This post is an update to the really interesting discovery I ran across and detailed in this post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48470#post_20676443
> 
> In short, the Phobya Maxguide6 dual bay controller has a really unique output, whereby once turned above the minimum or OFF position, (where there's only a few tenths of a volt output) there's a 4VDC base voltage, and an 8V PWM rider that starts at about 10% and increases to 100% as you turn the control to maximum position.
> 
> It's a very low PWM frequency, only 45.4Hz, but it is PWM.
> 
> I thought it might be interesting to see if I could pick off 5V of the PWM and use it as the control signal to control a regular PWM controlled fan or pump that takes its power from a PSU molex.
> 
> I posted here that I had pretty good luck with my initial attempt to do so, but some refinement was needed:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48500#post_20678661
> 
> The one issue was that the Maxguide6 needs a significant load before it produces a decent looking pulse shape, which prompted a RadioShack run this morning.
> 
> With a minimal load, the trailing edge of the pulse drags out instead of cutting off cleanly which effectively makes it behave as a wider pulse width percentage than it is.
> 
> That yields a higher effective output voltage and higher speeds on whatever it's running.
> 
> One of the prime reasons for using PWM devices is to gain lower operating speeds and better low speed control and start up.
> 
> With that concept in mind I worked up a little adapter board that takes the Maxguide 6 output, picks off 5V of PWM and conditions the pulse shape by adding a resistive load, which then can be used as the PWM control signal for normal 4 pin PWM fans or pumps.
> 
> To give you some more details, here's the pics:
> 
> These first few show the actual output of the Maxguide6, before splitting out the PWM component.
> 
> Basic test bench setup;
> 
> The scope is showing the 4V base with the 10% duty cycle 8V PWM rider. The effective voltage is 4.6V on the yellow meter and the fan rpm is 750. . . . With the 3W fan and a 7W resistor pack attached, the wave form is pretty fair.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the same setup with the load resistor plugged out:
> 
> Fan is at 1020RPM, voltage is showing at 5.7V, PW showing at 19.5%, The trailing edge of the pulse is badly drawn out, not nicely cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close up to show the details:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a close up with the load resistors plugged back in:
> 
> The effective voltage is back where it should be, along with the PW percentage and the fan RPM
> 
> 
> 
> These next few pics show the picked off PWM component of the output.
> 
> The little board loads the output to shape up the PWM pulse, and then a zener diode is used to drop out the first 5.1V, so all that's left is 7V of pulse, which a resistive divider then gives me the 5V needed.
> 
> Here's the little board:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the 5V PWM signal; The shape is nice and clean, 11% duty cycle, and an effective voltage of 4.6V
> 
> The PWM cpu fan speed is 1260RPM, which is really close to the 1200 RPM minimum that it gives from an actual 0% pulse width.
> 
> 
> 
> Since it seemed like everything was working surprisingly well, controlling well at 45Hz where the norm would be 25KHz, I plugged up the Maxguide6 and the little board to one of my dual 35X setups, hoping like h3ll that I wasn't blowing $200 down the tubes . . . . .
> 
> Damn this was an awesome hack, works fine, with the lowest I can get at ~1600RPM . . . and of course it maxes out easily.
> 
> 
> 
> The really cool thing here is that with one controller, you could control all your rad fans (36W per channel) and with one little board, you could use another channel to control a PWM 35X or D5.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you found this interesting
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting sure but not really required,pump control is superfluous and nothing that a normal controller cant do,35x excepted.
> Just set the pump to the most acceptable noise level and forget it.
> Great bit of work tho.
> This would be better posted in the controllers thread (did it make it over from the migration? im not sure)
Click to expand...

Normal controllers don't usually do a very good job of running pumps below about 8V or so, and with dual series pump setups becoming more common, being able to run them at lower speeds becomes more important.

Dual setups with PWM pumps like the 35X or PWM D5 are able to run much slower and hence more silently than their non-PWM counterparts while still maintaining good flow rates.

The problem is, that it seems the controller industry has not kept up with the increasing release of PWM pumps and fans with suitable PWM output offerings in the mainstream price range.

To me it seems quite exceptional that a controller that wasn't meant to be a PWM capable controller can so easily be used as one on as few or many of its 6 channels as you might want.

That to me, is what makes it relevant to the watercooling thread, . . . but if you don't feel it fits, I know where the delete key is.

Darlene


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> is anyone going to answer me?


No.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> * * * Serious Geek Alert * * *
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This post is an update to the really interesting discovery I ran across and detailed in this post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48470#post_20676443
> 
> In short, the Phobya Maxguide6 dual bay controller has a really unique output, whereby once turned above the minimum or OFF position, (where there's only a few tenths of a volt output) there's a 4VDC base voltage, and an 8V PWM rider that starts at about 10% and increases to 100% as you turn the control to maximum position.
> 
> It's a very low PWM frequency, only 45.4Hz, but it is PWM.
> 
> I thought it might be interesting to see if I could pick off 5V of the PWM and use it as the control signal to control a regular PWM controlled fan or pump that takes its power from a PSU molex.
> 
> I posted here that I had pretty good luck with my initial attempt to do so, but some refinement was needed:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48500#post_20678661
> 
> The one issue was that the Maxguide6 needs a significant load before it produces a decent looking pulse shape, which prompted a RadioShack run this morning.
> 
> With a minimal load, the trailing edge of the pulse drags out instead of cutting off cleanly which effectively makes it behave as a wider pulse width percentage than it is.
> 
> That yields a higher effective output voltage and higher speeds on whatever it's running.
> 
> One of the prime reasons for using PWM devices is to gain lower operating speeds and better low speed control and start up.
> 
> With that concept in mind I worked up a little adapter board that takes the Maxguide 6 output, picks off 5V of PWM and conditions the pulse shape by adding a resistive load, which then can be used as the PWM control signal for normal 4 pin PWM fans or pumps.
> 
> To give you some more details, here's the pics:
> 
> These first few show the actual output of the Maxguide6, before splitting out the PWM component.
> 
> Basic test bench setup;
> 
> The scope is showing the 4V base with the 10% duty cycle 8V PWM rider. The effective voltage is 4.6V on the yellow meter and the fan rpm is 750. . . . With the 3W fan and a 7W resistor pack attached, the wave form is pretty fair.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the same setup with the load resistor plugged out:
> 
> Fan is at 1020RPM, voltage is showing at 5.7V, PW showing at 19.5%, The trailing edge of the pulse is badly drawn out, not nicely cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close up to show the details:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a close up with the load resistors plugged back in:
> 
> The effective voltage is back where it should be, along with the PW percentage and the fan RPM
> 
> 
> 
> These next few pics show the picked off PWM component of the output.
> 
> The little board loads the output to shape up the PWM pulse, and then a zener diode is used to drop out the first 5.1V, so all that's left is 7V of pulse, which a resistive divider then gives me the 5V needed.
> 
> Here's the little board:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the 5V PWM signal; The shape is nice and clean, 11% duty cycle, and an effective voltage of 4.6V
> 
> The PWM cpu fan speed is 1260RPM, which is really close to the 1200 RPM minimum that it gives from an actual 0% pulse width.
> 
> 
> 
> Since it seemed like everything was working surprisingly well, controlling well at 45Hz where the norm would be 25KHz, I plugged up the Maxguide6 and the little board to one of my dual 35X setups, hoping like h3ll that I wasn't blowing $200 down the tubes . . . . .
> 
> Damn this was an awesome hack, works fine, with the lowest I can get at ~1600RPM . . . and of course it maxes out easily.
> 
> 
> 
> The really cool thing here is that with one controller, you could control all your rad fans (36W per channel) and with one little board, you could use another channel to control a PWM 35X or D5.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you found this interesting
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting sure but not really required,pump control is superfluous and nothing that a normal controller cant do,35x excepted.
> Just set the pump to the most acceptable noise level and forget it.
> Great bit of work tho.
> This would be better posted in the controllers thread (did it make it over from the migration? im not sure)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Normal controllers don't usually do a very good job of running pumps below about 8V or so, and with dual series pump setups becoming more common, being able to run them at lower speeds becomes more important.
> 
> Dual setups with PWM pumps like the 35X or PWM D5 are able to run much slower and hence more silently than their non-PWM counterparts while still maintaining good flow rates.
> 
> The problem is, that it seems the controller industry has not kept up with the increasing release of PWM pumps and fans with suitable PWM output offerings in the mainstream price range.
> 
> To me it seems quite exceptional that a controller that wasn't meant to be a PWM capable controller can so easily be used as one on as few or many of its 6 channels as you might want.
> 
> That to me, is what makes it relevant to the watercooling thread, . . . but if you don't feel it fits, I know where the delete key is.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

You misunderstand me,there was separate subforums for this,it makes it much easier to search for and its more relevant ,you are always welcome to post your findings here.
Again,as i have said before,I like your homebrew work.
Pumps (for me anyway) are normally the quietest things in the rig,if mounted correctly,I cant see the need to lower pump speeds to that extent when flow rate is the objective.
I will say this tho,i wouldnt expect that Phobya controller to have a long MTBF,Phobya are renowned for poor QC. Have you really pushed it yet?

While you are here,I have had that CW611 for a week now with no problems,2 D5s on it and they seem to be just fine,they attain full speed and control all the way down to 6.9-7v.
There is something odd with the output tho,i sometimes get sympathetic vibration which i never had on the FC5 nor on the 24v controller. Odd but nothing that concerns me greatly.

The setup tho...PITA,that little jog wheel is irritating like thrush......


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> * * * Serious Geek Alert * * *
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This post is an update to the really interesting discovery I ran across and detailed in this post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48470#post_20676443
> 
> In short, the Phobya Maxguide6 dual bay controller has a really unique output, whereby once turned above the minimum or OFF position, (where there's only a few tenths of a volt output) there's a 4VDC base voltage, and an 8V PWM rider that starts at about 10% and increases to 100% as you turn the control to maximum position.
> 
> It's a very low PWM frequency, only 45.4Hz, but it is PWM.
> 
> I thought it might be interesting to see if I could pick off 5V of the PWM and use it as the control signal to control a regular PWM controlled fan or pump that takes its power from a PSU molex.
> 
> I posted here that I had pretty good luck with my initial attempt to do so, but some refinement was needed:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48500#post_20678661
> 
> The one issue was that the Maxguide6 needs a significant load before it produces a decent looking pulse shape, which prompted a RadioShack run this morning.
> 
> With a minimal load, the trailing edge of the pulse drags out instead of cutting off cleanly which effectively makes it behave as a wider pulse width percentage than it is.
> 
> That yields a higher effective output voltage and higher speeds on whatever it's running.
> 
> One of the prime reasons for using PWM devices is to gain lower operating speeds and better low speed control and start up.
> 
> With that concept in mind I worked up a little adapter board that takes the Maxguide 6 output, picks off 5V of PWM and conditions the pulse shape by adding a resistive load, which then can be used as the PWM control signal for normal 4 pin PWM fans or pumps.
> 
> To give you some more details, here's the pics:
> 
> These first few show the actual output of the Maxguide6, before splitting out the PWM component.
> 
> Basic test bench setup;
> 
> The scope is showing the 4V base with the 10% duty cycle 8V PWM rider. The effective voltage is 4.6V on the yellow meter and the fan rpm is 750. . . . With the 3W fan and a 7W resistor pack attached, the wave form is pretty fair.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the same setup with the load resistor plugged out:
> 
> Fan is at 1020RPM, voltage is showing at 5.7V, PW showing at 19.5%, The trailing edge of the pulse is badly drawn out, not nicely cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close up to show the details:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a close up with the load resistors plugged back in:
> 
> The effective voltage is back where it should be, along with the PW percentage and the fan RPM
> 
> 
> 
> These next few pics show the picked off PWM component of the output.
> 
> The little board loads the output to shape up the PWM pulse, and then a zener diode is used to drop out the first 5.1V, so all that's left is 7V of pulse, which a resistive divider then gives me the 5V needed.
> 
> Here's the little board:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the 5V PWM signal; The shape is nice and clean, 11% duty cycle, and an effective voltage of 4.6V
> 
> The PWM cpu fan speed is 1260RPM, which is really close to the 1200 RPM minimum that it gives from an actual 0% pulse width.
> 
> 
> 
> Since it seemed like everything was working surprisingly well, controlling well at 45Hz where the norm would be 25KHz, I plugged up the Maxguide6 and the little board to one of my dual 35X setups, hoping like h3ll that I wasn't blowing $200 down the tubes . . . . .
> 
> Damn this was an awesome hack, works fine, with the lowest I can get at ~1600RPM . . . and of course it maxes out easily.
> 
> 
> 
> The really cool thing here is that with one controller, you could control all your rad fans (36W per channel) and with one little board, you could use another channel to control a PWM 35X or D5.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you found this interesting
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting sure but not really required,pump control is superfluous and nothing that a normal controller cant do,35x excepted.
> Just set the pump to the most acceptable noise level and forget it.
> Great bit of work tho.
> This would be better posted in the controllers thread (did it make it over from the migration? im not sure)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Normal controllers don't usually do a very good job of running pumps below about 8V or so, and with dual series pump setups becoming more common, being able to run them at lower speeds becomes more important.
> 
> Dual setups with PWM pumps like the 35X or PWM D5 are able to run much slower and hence more silently than their non-PWM counterparts while still maintaining good flow rates.
> 
> The problem is, that it seems the controller industry has not kept up with the increasing release of PWM pumps and fans with suitable PWM output offerings in the mainstream price range.
> 
> To me it seems quite exceptional that a controller that wasn't meant to be a PWM capable controller can so easily be used as one on as few or many of its 6 channels as you might want.
> 
> That to me, is what makes it relevant to the watercooling thread, . . . but if you don't feel it fits, I know where the delete key is.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You misunderstand me,there was separate subforums for this,it makes it much easier to search for and its more relevant ,you are always welcome to post your findings here.
> Again,as i have said before,I like your homebrew work.
> Pumps (for me anyway) are normally the quietest things in the rig,if mounted correctly,I cant see the need to lower pump speeds to that extent when flow rate is the objective.
> I will say this tho,i wouldnt expect that Phobya controller to have a long MTBF,Phobya are renowned for poor QC. Have you really pushed it yet?
> 
> While you are here,I have had that CW611 for a week now with no problems,2 D5s on it and they seem to be just fine,they attain full speed and control all the way down to 6.9-7v.
> There is something odd with the output tho,i sometimes get sympathetic vibration which i never had on the FC5 nor on the 24v controller. Odd but nothing that concerns me greatly.
> 
> *The setup tho...PITA,that little jog wheel is irritating like thrush.*.....
Click to expand...

That's one of the reasons I nixxed using them . . . . . that and you have to scroll every time you want to see data on a different channel . . .

Too much effort just to check fan speeds and flow rates.

I found that they had a tendency to sort of "surge", like a supercharged race car engine at idle . .

The output would range up and down a little.

I had a big electrolytic cap to smooth it out when I built the interface to let the CW611 control my PWM controller

Getting down to 7V is excellent, a lot of D5's don't get more than a couple tenths below 8V before they mysteriously turn off and maybe back on by themselves.

What RPM are you getting at 7V?

I'm anything but a Phobya fan, but they are not that expensive, and they have the nice display that my senior citizen eyes can read easily at an angle.

I need them to run 6 fans on each of 4 channels, and will do some test running before I button everything up.

They are actually just Chinese oem controllers; Sunshine Tipway Electronics.

http://www.stw.hk/english/productss.asp?id=170

Darlene

Another thing you may notice on the Lamptron, if you're using a channel as an RPM / flow rate display, it will show 0 until you set the output, (even if you're not using the output) above 28%.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> is anyone going to answer me?


THIS link may help answer your question.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 
> 
> I've been running the same loop, no draining etc. Primochill LRT since Jan.
> No clouding nothing, I mean... is there even a point to draining etc. at this stage?


Sorry if you haven't gotten an answer. It can get really busy here.

-Primochill LRT is known to plasticize. Through my personal experience, some go quickly (days to a week or two) while some can take a few months.

-This just started last year so if you have purchased any LRT within 2012-2013, there's a high probably it may have affected you.

-There have been cases were people got lucky and it has not turned.

-It happens with plain distilled or dyed, and some other liquids/coolants.

-its many makes of tube, even those sold as "plasticize free".

-Best solution without having to play the tube lotto or spending a lot is Advance LRT. I've been using the green for a couple of months and no turning. I'm on there clear after I switched to Pastel.Though its a bit stiffer so you may struggle a bit to get it on.

-Don't be discouraged if it happens. So far, no one has lost any components (especially pumps) when this happened. In the past, it would be a few months or years before this happened. I ran like this for a few months with the old LRT. Still using the same components.

-Only annoying thing is if you run clear, it shows. Other then that, its a pita to discard tube (if you did) and to clean things. Cleaning is simple with some hot distilled or break down your rig and wash things (rinse with distilled).

So, you're in no danger of damaging anything *BUT* if you have any concerns, drain your loop and inspect the inside of your tubes. If you run no dyes or colored liquid, it looks whitish or grayish. If your do run color, it looks like a pasty film inside the tube with a hue of the color your running. When i ran Mayhems Emerald green, the plasticize turned a bit greenish almost pastel like. Same with the Deep Blue, a light bluish almost pastel like.

Here's a whole thread dedicated to this:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery

The bullet points above in my post pretty much cover a lot of the relevant things.

Good luck


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been running the same loop, no draining etc. Primochill LRT since Jan.
> No clouding nothing, I mean... is there even a point to draining etc. at this stage?


You do really need to flush & clean your loop bi-annually or annually. You don't need to wait before there is a problem with your loop to clean it. Don't be the guy that run the loop for years without cleaning & when problem occur, blamed the manufacturer/industry.

+rep *wermad* for productive & useful reply.


----------



## wermad

Some say 6 months maintenance is recommended, but I know some that go up to year if. Its really up to the user. I've never done any maintenance because of my impulsive drive to keep changing my build *too* frequently


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some say 6 months maintenance is recommended, but I know some that go up to year if. Its really up to the user. I've never done any maintenance because of my impulsive drive to keep changing my build *too* frequently


I'm in the same path


----------



## Rickles

Cell photo, go easy.

Top gpu block is giving me a headache with the shim, they are the mcw82s, so I bought the "mount" for the 7900 series. That being said the GPU stays around 40c.

What is bothering me is the res I am using, I was thinking it would be a small square fillport res I could put up top, but it is a cylinder... guess I will have to find a better mount then a zip tie.

I do really like my purple though.

and yes the top GPU is not plugged in, it is idling at about 80c.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> 
> 
> Cell photo, go easy.
> 
> Top gpu block is giving me a headache with the shim, they are the mcw82s, so I bought the "mount" for the 7900 series. That being said the GPU stays around 40c.
> 
> What is bothering me is the res I am using, I was thinking it would be a small square fillport res I could put up top, but it is a cylinder... guess I will have to find a better mount then a zip tie.
> 
> I do really like my purple though.
> 
> and yes the top GPU is not plugged in, it is idling at about 80c.


Nice can you post a picture from right in front of everything? I haven't seen purple liquid before. Looks good.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Posted a few months ago - redid the case, decided to post again


----------



## Kokin

^Very clean and nice theme of white/red. Very refreshing to see compared to all the black/red builds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sorry if you haven't gotten an answer. It can get really busy here.
> 
> -Primochill LRT is known to plasticize. Through my personal experience, some go quickly (days to a week or two) while some can take a few months.
> 
> -This just started last year so if you have purchased any LRT within 2012-2013, there's a high probably it may have affected you.


The line that was known to have plasticizer issues was the Primochill *Pro* LRT. The current Primochill *Advanced* LRT has no known plasticizer issue and is actually recommended by users in the Mayhem's Dye Club.

Great post otherwise.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> ^Very clean and nice theme of white/red. Very refreshing to see compared to all the black/red builds.
> The line that was known to have plasticizer issues was the Primochill *Pro* LRT. The current Primochill *Advanced* LRT has no known plasticizer issue and is actually recommended by users in the Mayhem's Dye Club.
> 
> Great post otherwise.


Pretty much what I said







If it don't say Advance, then it has the chance of plasticizing, if you want to sum up my post.

edit: I bought some of the older LRT a few months ago it held for a couple of months. Not caring, I ordered some more since it was cheap and they sent me the Advance this time. They took down the old lrt listing eventually (amazon.com) and just sell the advance version.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Posted a few months ago - redid the case, decided to post again


Very smooth clean build there trickster. I like.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> is anyone going to answer me?


Apparently I'm not "anyone" so I don't know if they will or not... but an answer was posted previously... perhaps I should ask if you are going to _read_ any answers?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> * * * Serious Geek Alert * * *
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This post is an update to the really interesting discovery I ran across and detailed in this post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48470#post_20676443
> 
> In short, the Phobya Maxguide6 dual bay controller has a really unique output, whereby once turned above the minimum or OFF position, (where there's only a few tenths of a volt output) there's a 4VDC base voltage, and an 8V PWM rider that starts at about 10% and increases to 100% as you turn the control to maximum position.
> 
> It's a very low PWM frequency, only 45.4Hz, but it is PWM.
> 
> I thought it might be interesting to see if I could pick off 5V of the PWM and use it as the control signal to control a regular PWM controlled fan or pump that takes its power from a PSU molex.
> 
> I posted here that I had pretty good luck with my initial attempt to do so, but some refinement was needed:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48500#post_20678661
> 
> The one issue was that the Maxguide6 needs a significant load before it produces a decent looking pulse shape, which prompted a RadioShack run this morning.
> 
> With a minimal load, the trailing edge of the pulse drags out instead of cutting off cleanly which effectively makes it behave as a wider pulse width percentage than it is.
> 
> That yields a higher effective output voltage and higher speeds on whatever it's running.
> 
> One of the prime reasons for using PWM devices is to gain lower operating speeds and better low speed control and start up.
> 
> With that concept in mind I worked up a little adapter board that takes the Maxguide 6 output, picks off 5V of PWM and conditions the pulse shape by adding a resistive load, which then can be used as the PWM control signal for normal 4 pin PWM fans or pumps.
> 
> To give you some more details, here's the pics:
> 
> These first few show the actual output of the Maxguide6, before splitting out the PWM component.
> 
> Basic test bench setup;
> 
> The scope is showing the 4V base with the 10% duty cycle 8V PWM rider. The effective voltage is 4.6V on the yellow meter and the fan rpm is 750. . . . With the 3W fan and a 7W resistor pack attached, the wave form is pretty fair.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the same setup with the load resistor plugged out:
> 
> Fan is at 1020RPM, voltage is showing at 5.7V, PW showing at 19.5%, The trailing edge of the pulse is badly drawn out, not nicely cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close up to show the details:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a close up with the load resistors plugged back in:
> 
> The effective voltage is back where it should be, along with the PW percentage and the fan RPM
> 
> 
> 
> These next few pics show the picked off PWM component of the output.
> 
> The little board loads the output to shape up the PWM pulse, and then a zener diode is used to drop out the first 5.1V, so all that's left is 7V of pulse, which a resistive divider then gives me the 5V needed.
> 
> Here's the little board:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the 5V PWM signal; The shape is nice and clean, 11% duty cycle, and an effective voltage of 4.6V
> 
> The PWM cpu fan speed is 1260RPM, which is really close to the 1200 RPM minimum that it gives from an actual 0% pulse width.
> 
> 
> 
> Since it seemed like everything was working surprisingly well, controlling well at 45Hz where the norm would be 25KHz, I plugged up the Maxguide6 and the little board to one of my dual 35X setups, hoping like h3ll that I wasn't blowing $200 down the tubes . . . . .
> 
> Damn this was an awesome hack, works fine, with the lowest I can get at ~1600RPM . . . and of course it maxes out easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The really cool thing here is that with one controller, you could control all your rad fans (36W per channel) and with one little board, you could use another channel to control a PWM 35X or D5.
> 
> Hope you found this interesting
> 
> Darlene


Having been totally unaware of the controller thread's existence, you have no idea how happy I am to see you posting this here. Main reason being that I find hacks like that really fascinating but also very useful. Working currently on turning a fan controller into led lights controller/dimmer, seeing this is like tossing fuel into the fire.







Call me a sad nerd but I can't imagine anyone not wanting to be able to control their pump, fans and lighting all from a single unit. And better yet, being able to see the pump rpm accurately while at it.

Furthermore, to see this done on a "budget" Phobya controller means that people interested in this kind of rigging now have an alternative, rather than having to cough up the dosh to go Aquaero and then some before even starting to think about bringing their desires reality.

The only thing I might wish to see in the future would be someone crossbreeding that with something like the NZXT's external touch screen controller (as most mods do away with the 5.25" bays that leaves you really struggling with any kind of controller placement).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They are actually just Chinese oem controllers; Sunshine Tipway Electronics.
> 
> http://www.stw.hk/english/productss.asp?id=170


Is it just me but does the Sunshine-Tipway's touch screen fan controller look awfully lot like the oem version of the Lamptron touch?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> * * * Serious Geek Alert * * *
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This post is an update to the really interesting discovery I ran across and detailed in this post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48470#post_20676443
> 
> In short, the Phobya Maxguide6 dual bay controller has a really unique output, whereby once turned above the minimum or OFF position, (where there's only a few tenths of a volt output) there's a 4VDC base voltage, and an 8V PWM rider that starts at about 10% and increases to 100% as you turn the control to maximum position.
> 
> It's a very low PWM frequency, only 45.4Hz, but it is PWM.
> 
> I thought it might be interesting to see if I could pick off 5V of the PWM and use it as the control signal to control a regular PWM controlled fan or pump that takes its power from a PSU molex.
> 
> I posted here that I had pretty good luck with my initial attempt to do so, but some refinement was needed:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48500#post_20678661
> 
> The one issue was that the Maxguide6 needs a significant load before it produces a decent looking pulse shape, which prompted a RadioShack run this morning.
> 
> With a minimal load, the trailing edge of the pulse drags out instead of cutting off cleanly which effectively makes it behave as a wider pulse width percentage than it is.
> 
> That yields a higher effective output voltage and higher speeds on whatever it's running.
> 
> One of the prime reasons for using PWM devices is to gain lower operating speeds and better low speed control and start up.
> 
> With that concept in mind I worked up a little adapter board that takes the Maxguide 6 output, picks off 5V of PWM and conditions the pulse shape by adding a resistive load, which then can be used as the PWM control signal for normal 4 pin PWM fans or pumps.
> 
> To give you some more details, here's the pics:
> 
> These first few show the actual output of the Maxguide6, before splitting out the PWM component.
> 
> Basic test bench setup;
> 
> The scope is showing the 4V base with the 10% duty cycle 8V PWM rider. The effective voltage is 4.6V on the yellow meter and the fan rpm is 750. . . . With the 3W fan and a 7W resistor pack attached, the wave form is pretty fair.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the same setup with the load resistor plugged out:
> 
> Fan is at 1020RPM, voltage is showing at 5.7V, PW showing at 19.5%, The trailing edge of the pulse is badly drawn out, not nicely cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close up to show the details:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a close up with the load resistors plugged back in:
> 
> The effective voltage is back where it should be, along with the PW percentage and the fan RPM
> 
> 
> 
> These next few pics show the picked off PWM component of the output.
> 
> The little board loads the output to shape up the PWM pulse, and then a zener diode is used to drop out the first 5.1V, so all that's left is 7V of pulse, which a resistive divider then gives me the 5V needed.
> 
> Here's the little board:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the 5V PWM signal; The shape is nice and clean, 11% duty cycle, and an effective voltage of 4.6V
> 
> The PWM cpu fan speed is 1260RPM, which is really close to the 1200 RPM minimum that it gives from an actual 0% pulse width.
> 
> 
> 
> Since it seemed like everything was working surprisingly well, controlling well at 45Hz where the norm would be 25KHz, I plugged up the Maxguide6 and the little board to one of my dual 35X setups, hoping like h3ll that I wasn't blowing $200 down the tubes . . . . .
> 
> Damn this was an awesome hack, works fine, with the lowest I can get at ~1600RPM . . . and of course it maxes out easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The really cool thing here is that with one controller, you could control all your rad fans (36W per channel) and with one little board, you could use another channel to control a PWM 35X or D5.
> 
> Hope you found this interesting
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having been totally unaware of the controller thread's existence, you have no idea how happy I am to see you posting this here. Main reason being that I find hacks like that really fascinating but also very useful. Working currently on turning a fan controller into led lights controller/dimmer, seeing this is like tossing fuel into the fire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Call me a sad nerd but *I can't imagine anyone not wanting to be able to control their pump, fans and lighting all from a single unit. And better yet, being able to see the pump rpm accurately while at it.*
> 
> Furthermore, to see this done on a "budget" Phobya controller means that people interested in this kind of rigging now have an alternative, rather than having to cough up the dosh to go Aquaero and then some before even starting to think about bringing their desires reality.
> 
> The only thing I might wish to see in the future would be someone crossbreeding that with something like the NZXT's external touch screen controller (as most mods do away with the 5.25" bays that leaves you really struggling with any kind of controller placement).
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They are actually just Chinese oem controllers; Sunshine Tipway Electronics.
> 
> http://www.stw.hk/english/productss.asp?id=170
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is it just me but does the Sunshine-Tipway's touch screen fan controller look awfully lot like the oem version of the Lamptron touch?
Click to expand...

All pumps and fans can be controlled with a normal fancontroller,they also report the RPMs correctly.
Darlene has made this control board for controlling PWM fans which are normally just plugged into a PWM header on the mobo for automated control via a profile curve.


----------



## bundymania

Bitspower Titan:

http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpac-cwu15.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpac-9dus0.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpac-study.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpaciz1u2z.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpacifruai.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpaciduuqa.jpg

Bitspower GTX780:

http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpac-68sjk.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtx780ac--102amsl9.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpacim3s9p.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpacii7sff.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtx780ac--10267sze.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtx780ac--102h1syx.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtx780acibk--ans7c.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtx780acibk--32sx1.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtx780acibk--dfsm7.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpac-0bsqu.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpac-p8sve.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=bp-wbvgngtxtitannpacih6sb7.jpg


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> * * * Serious Geek Alert * * *
> 
> This post is an update to the really interesting discovery I ran across and detailed in this post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48470#post_20676443
> 
> In short, the Phobya Maxguide6 dual bay controller has a really unique output, whereby once turned above the minimum or OFF position, (where there's only a few tenths of a volt output) there's a 4VDC base voltage, and an 8V PWM rider that starts at about 10% and increases to 100% as you turn the control to maximum position.
> 
> It's a very low PWM frequency, only 45.4Hz, but it is PWM.
> 
> I thought it might be interesting to see if I could pick off 5V of the PWM and use it as the control signal to control a regular PWM controlled fan or pump that takes its power from a PSU molex.
> 
> I posted here that I had pretty good luck with my initial attempt to do so, but some refinement was needed:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/48500#post_20678661
> 
> The one issue was that the Maxguide6 needs a significant load before it produces a decent looking pulse shape, which prompted a RadioShack run this morning.
> 
> With a minimal load, the trailing edge of the pulse drags out instead of cutting off cleanly which effectively makes it behave as a wider pulse width percentage than it is.
> 
> That yields a higher effective output voltage and higher speeds on whatever it's running.
> 
> One of the prime reasons for using PWM devices is to gain lower operating speeds and better low speed control and start up.
> 
> With that concept in mind I worked up a little adapter board that takes the Maxguide 6 output, picks off 5V of PWM and conditions the pulse shape by adding a resistive load, which then can be used as the PWM control signal for normal 4 pin PWM fans or pumps.
> 
> To give you some more details, here's the pics:
> 
> These first few show the actual output of the Maxguide6, before splitting out the PWM component.
> 
> Basic test bench setup;
> 
> The scope is showing the 4V base with the 10% duty cycle 8V PWM rider. The effective voltage is 4.6V on the yellow meter and the fan rpm is 750. . . . With the 3W fan and a 7W resistor pack attached, the wave form is pretty fair.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the same setup with the load resistor plugged out:
> 
> Fan is at 1020RPM, voltage is showing at 5.7V, PW showing at 19.5%, The trailing edge of the pulse is badly drawn out, not nicely cut off.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close up to show the details:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a close up with the load resistors plugged back in:
> 
> The effective voltage is back where it should be, along with the PW percentage and the fan RPM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These next few pics show the picked off PWM component of the output.
> 
> The little board loads the output to shape up the PWM pulse, and then a zener diode is used to drop out the first 5.1V, so all that's left is 7V of pulse, which a resistive divider then gives me the 5V needed.
> 
> Here's the little board:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the 5V PWM signal; The shape is nice and clean, 11% duty cycle, and an effective voltage of 4.6V
> 
> The PWM cpu fan speed is 1260RPM, which is really close to the 1200 RPM minimum that it gives from an actual 0% pulse width.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since it seemed like everything was working surprisingly well, controlling well at 45Hz where the norm would be 25KHz, I plugged up the Maxguide6 and the little board to one of my dual 35X setups, hoping like h3ll that I wasn't blowing $200 down the tubes . . . . .
> 
> Damn this was an awesome hack, works fine, with the lowest I can get at ~1600RPM . . . and of course it maxes out easily.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The really cool thing here is that with one controller, you could control all your rad fans (36W per channel) and with one little board, you could use another channel to control a PWM 35X or D5.
> 
> Hope you found this interesting
> 
> Darlene


Very nice work, Darlene.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Posted a few months ago - redid the case, decided to post again


I don't normally like small tubing but in your case it works and looks good. Nice job.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> ^Very clean and nice theme of white/red. Very refreshing to see compared to all the black/red builds.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Very smooth clean build there trickster. I like.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I don't normally like small tubing but in your case it works and looks good. Nice job.


Thanks - I think it came out nice too.


----------



## Trolle BE

my loop is in place and working almost 2 weeks now.
is it normal that my waterlevel in my reservoir dropped a bit?
i checked for leaks but havent found any(i use mayhems laser green so should be easy to see)


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> my loop is in place and working almost 2 weeks now.
> is it normal that my waterlevel in my reservoir dropped a bit?
> i checked for leaks but havent found any(i use mayhems laser green so should be easy to see)


A "bit" is hard to define, it is normal as air bleeds though, by now it should be somewhat stable though.


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> A "bit" is hard to define, it is normal as air bleeds though, by now it should be somewhat stable though.


i moved my pc around a bit 2 days ago to install new fans and stuff so maybe that released some air stuck somewhere

im a bit worried now tho lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> i moved my pc around a bit 2 days ago to install new fans and stuff so maybe that released some air stuck somewhere
> 
> im a bit worried now tho lol


Keep an eye on it. I'd put some paper towels around your fittings to try to catch a possible leak.


----------



## Sunreeper

Mandrix please please use spoilers lol


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Mandrix please please use spoilers lol


Yeah....I did.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hopefully one day soon I'll be ripping my aircooled setup out of my rig, just looking into what I want to use and how far I want to take it, lol.







Still some amazing rigs in here!


----------



## SortOfGrim

Whatever you do NEVER buy the Bitspower QDC's. Such a pita they are.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Whatever you do NEVER buy the Bitspower QDC's. Such a pita they are.


I ran into the same problem with one of mine... complete PITA. It would not go together for the life of me and eventually broke. However the other one works flawlessly.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Whatever you do NEVER buy the Bitspower QDC's. Such a pita they are.


Hmm... the pair I bought works fine. I'd say you just got a bad pair.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hmm... the pair I bought works fine. I'd say you just got a bad pair.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


It was just the one I got. The other worked great. I forced it to much and cracked the thing metal ring so I felt bad returning it and wanted to finish the build... Ill add another one in when I tear down again.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was looking at piecing it together via Dazmode PC's store, but might start with one of their kits then add to it like I did when I originally bought my IBuyPower via Fry's (Only original components left are the CPU, MoBo, and the 1TB 7200RPM HDD(other than the case of course - hard to find a NZXT Source 210 w/ a stock Windowed side panel))


----------



## stickg1

Got my new card. Picked it up off a regular in here. Very clean, very well packed, and I'm very excited! Tomorrow is my b-day and I'm taking the entire day off to rework my system, I have all the tubing, lighting, and cable mgmt accessories I need and I am going to get it 100% for the first time since I pieced it together over a few months. Will post pics tomorrow, here is my new GTX 680 kitted out in EK

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/IMG_20130826_191957_564_zps6a8d07d3.jpg.html
http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/IMG_20130826_192014_564_zps35c8b045.jpg.html


----------



## Drifbau5

This is my first try at watercooling and also my first computer build. I'm open to any suggestions to improve it. My motherboard has four PMW headers but I couldn't control the MCP35X. I only wad able to control it on the CPU header. Oh well, haha. That was the only issue I had in my build. Here are some pictures. More are in the album. GPU will be added to the loop sometime in the future.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> This is my first try at watercooling and also my first computer build. I'm open to any suggestions to improve it. My motherboard has four PMW headers but I couldn't control the MCP35X. I only wad able to control it on the CPU header. Oh well, haha. That was the only issue I had in my build. Here are some pictures. More are in the album. GPU will be added to the loop sometime in the future.


Looks really good to me from the angle of the shots, simple and clean.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> This is my first try at watercooling and also my first computer build. I'm open to any suggestions to improve it. My motherboard has four PMW headers but I couldn't control the MCP35X. I only wad able to control it on the CPU header. Oh well, haha. That was the only issue I had in my build. Here are some pictures. More are in the album. GPU will be added to the loop sometime in the future.


I wish my first rig looked that nice ! That is one tidy looking PC


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I wish my first rig looked that nice ! That is one tidy looking PC


Well the great thing is this is an amazing community. I got many ideas from the Prodigy owners club, it really helped me make it look nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks really good to me from the angle of the shots, simple and clean.


Thanks man. I didn't want to use many rotaries but the only way I could make it look clean in the prodigy was by using lots of them haha.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> This is my first try at watercooling and also my first computer build. I'm open to any suggestions to improve it. My motherboard has four PMW headers but I couldn't control the MCP35X. I only wad able to control it on the CPU header. Oh well, haha. That was the only issue I had in my build. Here are some pictures. More are in the album. GPU will be added to the loop sometime in the future.


Looking great! Very tidy
If youre running out of pwm slot maybe try getting something like this?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html


----------



## cyphon

Might be a dumb question, but how does this EK block fit an AMD3+ Socket?


Looks pretty Intel LG-115X socket shaped to me. Is there an adapter?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Might be a dumb question, but how does this EK block fit an AMD3+ Socket?
> 
> 
> Looks pretty Intel LG-115X socket shaped to me. Is there an adapter?


It comes with the amd bracket for am2->am3+,

I have the copper version and it came w/ the amd bracket. switching it easy and you also will need to change the jet plate for the best performance.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990877.pdf


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It comes with the amd bracket for am2->am3+,
> 
> I have the copper version and it came w/ the amd bracket. switching it easy and you also will need to change the jet plate for the best performance.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990877.pdf


Ah ha! That works









I'm assuming that J1 would be the best jetplate for AMD3+ socket


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> This is my first try at watercooling and also my first computer build. I'm open to any suggestions to improve it. My motherboard has four PMW headers but I couldn't control the MCP35X. I only wad able to control it on the CPU header. Oh well, haha. That was the only issue I had in my build. Here are some pictures. More are in the album. GPU will be added to the loop sometime in the future.


Very nice!!
As you discovered, most motherboards usually only have one or two true PWM headers usually like the CPU and the CPU_opt.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Got my new card. Picked it up off a regular in here. Very clean, very well packed, and I'm very excited! Tomorrow is my b-day and I'm taking the entire day off to rework my system, I have all the tubing, lighting, and cable mgmt accessories I need and I am going to get it 100% for the first time since I pieced it together over a few months. Will post pics tomorrow, here is my new GTX 680 kitted out in EK
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/IMG_20130826_191957_564_zps6a8d07d3.jpg.html
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/IMG_20130826_192014_564_zps35c8b045.jpg.html


I spy a *bit'o'green* in that CSQ link...


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Very nice!!
> As you discovered, most motherboards usually only have one or two true PWM headers usually like the CPU and the CPU_opt.


Yeah pretty lame. Whats the point in making the all 4 pin if they don't provide PWM support?


----------



## Killa Cam

hey folk, im going to do acrylic tubing, but i need help finding the right size for what i need. im going to be using ek's new hd fittings here. i'd prefer to go with the 12/16 size fittings, but im not sure where i can get longer tubing for that size. if that size is hard to find, should i settle for the 10/12?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Ah ha! That works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming that J1 would be the best jetplate for AMD3+ socket


Not sure, I would wait for Derick on that one or pm him. The instructions may be dated so it may not have the best suggested plate for amd.

Anyone know can chime in if they like









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> hey folk, im going to do acrylic tubing, but i need help finding the right size for what i need. im going to be using ek's new hd fittings here. i'd prefer to go with the 12/16 size fittings, but im not sure where i can get longer tubing for that size. if that size is hard to find, should i settle for the 10/12?


12mm is much more readily available. I've found 16mm od tube on ebay through UK sellers. You're going to spend a lot more to ship this. The 16mm fittings can be done w/ acrylic but I have yet to see anyone do this or bend this.

edit: Check out Jameswalt1's post below, EK is selling 50cm ones.

Forget about 5/8" tube as I've tried that with the EK 16mm fittings and its not secured.

You can also go w/ Primochill ghost fittings. There's lots of places you can pick up 1/2" acrylic tube.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> hey folk, im going to do acrylic tubing, but i need help finding the right size for what i need. im going to be using ek's new hd fittings here. i'd prefer to go with the 12/16 size fittings, but im not sure where i can get longer tubing for that size. if that size is hard to find, should i settle for the 10/12?


EK actually sells that size tubing themselves in 50cm lengths, which is perfect length (it's also the length that most acrylic tube ships in for shipping reasons)

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/solid-tubing/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2-pcs.html

Performance PC's also has it at the bottom of the page you linked

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1259&products_id=38772&zenid=8fc7cbaa9b1bbd2a4538efb255418cfb

I think you should do it. Everyone is using the 12mm OD tube (including myself), do something new


----------



## wermad

^^^good find.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> EK actually sells that size tubing themselves in 50cm lengths, which is perfect length (it's also the length that most acrylic tube ships in for shipping reasons)
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/solid-tubing/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2-pcs.html
> 
> Performance PC's also has it at the bottom of the page you linked
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1259&products_id=38772&zenid=8fc7cbaa9b1bbd2a4538efb255418cfb
> 
> I think you should do it. Everyone is using the 12mm OD tube (including myself), do something new


hmm.. 50cm in length? will that be long enough? because i think i'll have at most 2 long runs. anyway, thanks (rep)


----------



## Jameswalt1

50cm is plenty long. Order several obviously though, around 6 to be safe (you'll make a few mistakes)









Plus you should have a bit left over for future loop changes.


----------



## Killa Cam

can u suggest me a good tool to cut acrylic tubing?


----------



## shiney2512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> can u suggest me a good tool to cut acrylic tubing?


a mini hacksaw will do the trick, just sand the ends and flush out before you install it.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiney2512*
> 
> a mini hacksaw will do the trick, just sand the ends and flush out before you install it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> can u suggest me a good tool to cut acrylic tubing?


Yeah any small hacksaw. Then my personal method is use a file on the end after cutting it to make sure its a straight cut, then I file around the end at 45 degrees to give a gradual edge then I wet sand all around the end to make sure it's all smooth. Then, like shiney2512 said, flush it out.

Once you have the hang of it you'll be able to knock out [straight] sections in 5-8 minutes.


----------



## wermad

Yup, small hack saw works. I wouldn't use a dremel (or the type) as it could melt.

I would get something hold the tube in place as I had a lot of slight crooked cuts (ended up sanding them).


----------



## Killa Cam

i actually found a place that sells cheaper acrylic 12/16mm tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> i actually found a place that sells cheaper acrylic 12/16mm tubing.


If you do end up going w/ 16mm and do some bends, let us know in the acrylic guide on how it goes


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you do end up going w/ 16mm and do some bends, let us know in the acrylic guide on how it goes


okay. i just need to find something that'll help be bend that type of tubing


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> okay. i just need to find something that'll help be bend that type of tubing


if you're going w/ 16/12mm, look for a 12mm od silicone rod or tube (make sure to get the smallest id for a silicone tube, shore 70 recommended).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I would recommend a OD 1mm smaller than the ID of the tube you wish to bend,makes tube removal and insertion much easier.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would recommend a OD 1mm smaller than the ID of the tube you wish to bend,makes tube removal and insertion much easier.


true this. I ended up w/ a slightly smaller od silicone tube (9mm). and it was easier to work with.


----------



## Juthos




----------



## wermad

Nice


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


Really excited about this. The 680s/670s still need some love!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*


These are genius.

I hope Bitspower prices these fairly.


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OMG! amazing idea for wb


----------



## shiney2512

This is my recent build with primochill rigid in a CaseLabs SM8 case.


----------



## wermad

Very nice


----------



## bomberjun

just came into my doorstep..


----------



## wot

^^very nice! I need one sr1 480 so bad...


----------



## JohnnyEars

Looking forward to seeing another bomberjun build


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> just came into my doorstep..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. What case are you going to use this time?


----------



## fnyk

To me it looks like the 900D


----------



## mironccr345

Maybe he'll build it like his 800D????


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> just came into my doorstep..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!


----------



## bomberjun

They will be all in my abandoned 800D. I'm still chopping the case to accommodate all the radiators. It will look stock outside but different inside. Will be also using acrylic tubes this time.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> just came into my doorstep..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That 480


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> I wanted postive pressure in my Midi R2 like I had in my old Phantom but because I have a 280mm rad up top I couldn't put the fans above the radiator pushing outside air through the rad so I just set up the fans as if I didn't even have the radiator. So they're under the radiator blowing hot air from the motherboard and GPU (it's only a crappy GTS240 but it idles at 60°C and while playing BF3 it's never under 80°C).
> Would it be bad to pull air through the rad knowing that I run all my fans @5V and the top of the Arc Midi R2 has some rather thick foam dust filters ?
> 
> PS: pictures of my rig can be found in my default album.
> Oh and yes, that GTS240 can handle BF3 @1080p surprisingly. I only play 24-32p games with everything set to the lowest setting possible but the resolution and it averages 45 fps and I've never seen it drop below 30.


I don't think I ever got an answer about this, if I did then sorry for having missed it







.

Basically the question is what's best between:

-Pushing hot air out of the case knowing the GPU idles @60°C and doesn't send the heat out of the case.
-Pulling cool air in.

It's for my top 280mm rad.

Additionnal info: right now with the fans @5V pushing air out I can feel airflow above the case so I guess the foamy dust filters aren't all that restrictive.


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiney2512*
> 
> This is my recent build with primochill rigid in a CaseLabs SM8 case.


Wowwwiiii


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiney2512*
> 
> This is my recent build with primochill rigid in a CaseLabs SM8 case.


I'm jelly


----------



## briddell

Is the labyrinth design outdated for CPU blocks, or would I be better off with a linear pattern, or even a spiral/radial inside?

Found some old 12,000 Amp grounds they used at Toyota years ago, cleaned them up with some sandpaper, and touched up with scotch-brite, and will be milling them into some waterblocks soon


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Very nice!!
> As you discovered, most motherboards usually only have one or two true PWM headers usually like the CPU and the CPU_opt.


Mostly it is Asus that does this. Almost all of my non-Asus boards have fully working pwm.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> -Pushing hot air out of the case knowing the GPU idles @60°C and doesn't send the heat out of the case.
> *-Pulling cool air in.*
> .


Is what I would do.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Is the labyrinth design outdated for CPU blocks, or would I be better off with a linear pattern, or even a spiral/radial inside?


Definitely outdated. You really can't beat jet impingement blocks with micro channels / pins.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> They will be all in my abandoned 800D. I'm still chopping the case to accommodate all the radiators. It will look stock outside but different inside. Will be also using acrylic tubes this time.


oh man! Sounds like it's going to be another beast build.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Mostly it is Asus that does this. Almost all of my non-Asus boards have fully working pwm.


Agreed, my Gigabyte boards have multiple PMW fan headers, in fact my Sniper 5 has 5 of them and 2 three pin.


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Mostly it is Asus that does this. Almost all of my non-Asus boards have fully working pwm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Agreed, my Gigabyte boards have multiple PMW fan headers, in fact my Sniper 5 has 5 of them and 2 three pin.


Thats a bummer I should have researched that more, I really thought all headers supported PWM when I bought it. I bought all PWM fans haha.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Is what I would do.


+Rep for being the first to bother giving an answer









I actually noticed before going to work that I'd tried to do that after all. It's just that the yate loons are inverted. Most fans expulse air through the part where the frame is visible. These intake from that part ^^. I'll switch them before heading out tonight







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Is the labyrinth design outdated for CPU blocks, or would I be better off with a linear pattern, or even a spiral/radial inside?
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely outdated. You really can't beat jet impingement blocks with micro channels / pins.
Click to expand...

So. Much. This.


----------



## zmegati

Finally all parts are arrived















I had little adjust case for Rad 280



This is a temporary look



I have acrylic 16/13 and i have problem, i to not have fittings for this acrylic and i have to order it by custom made, for a few days will be made..but for now I put silicone tubing.

I played now Battlefield 3 with resolution 5760x1080 with ultra settings and i have this temp











I disassembled my old Zalman CPU and GPU coolers and after a 1 year used they look very good:


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> The 680s/670s still need some love!


THIS!


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely outdated. You really can't beat jet impingement blocks with micro channels / pins.


Alright, good to know. That will make manufacturing a lot more difficult, but I think I'm up to the challenge









Now, the question of how many jet pipes!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> +Rep for being the first to bother giving an answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually noticed before going to work that I'd tried to do that after all. It's just that the yate loons are inverted. Most fans expulse air through the part where the frame is visible. These intake from that part ^^. I'll switch them before heading out tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


which yates do you have exactly? i have never seen a fan intake from the frame side.


----------



## briddell

So, would having an inlet G1/4" thread feed into a centered "jet", down onto a system of fins like this be ideal?



It would go inlet, jet, fins, outlet, like outlined in this picture.



I feel like that would be pretty effective in terms of flow. Thoughts?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> which yates do you have exactly? i have never seen a fan intake from the frame side.


They're 1400rpm D14SM-12s that I got for 3.62€ untit.

EDIT: just opened my case and stopped one of those Yates. I was wrong, they're normal which is really weird since on the frame side I can't feel any airflow but on the top of the case from where it is apparently intaking I can. Oh well, that's surprising but probably less than if they had really been inverted







. They're pretty damn good for 3.62€ fans then to be pulling air through that 55mm rad AND the foam dust filter on the Arc Midi R2


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*


That is adorable!


----------



## stickg1

Alright I just got done fixing and finalizing my loop, I made a little log so if you want to see all the pictures check me out: http://www.overclock.net/t/1422171/build-log-stickg1s-marketplace-monster-aka-the-1080p-power-house/0_30

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/outside1_zpsb9d6e9e6.jpg.html


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Agreed, my Gigabyte boards have multiple PMW fan headers, in fact my Sniper 5 has 5 of them and 2 three pin.


Just because they are 4 pin connections doesn't mean they are PWM controlled. I would double check your manual as even on the top of the line OC Force z87 board only cpu header is a true pwm.
On pages 26-27 of your manual for the sniper, it shows the cpu fan header as the only one that has the 4th pin as the speed control. All others would be voltage. Disappointing, right?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All pumps and fans can be controlled with a normal fancontroller,they also report the RPMs correctly.
> Darlene has made this control board for controlling PWM fans which are normally just plugged into a PWM header on the mobo for automated control via a profile curve.


Still pretty new to this water cooling business, I was labouring under the illusion that you couldn't reliably slap a pwm controlled dcc pump to a normal 3 pin fan controller which is why Darlene's test got me so excited. But if you can then that's just great stuff








All in all I prefer to be able to control everything from one place rather than having some of the stuff behind a controller and some behind software. Tends to reduce those "I think we forgot something" moments.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All pumps and fans can be controlled with a normal fancontroller,they also report the RPMs correctly.
> Darlene has made this control board for controlling PWM fans which are normally just plugged into a PWM header on the mobo for automated control via a profile curve.
> 
> 
> 
> Still pretty new to this water cooling business, I was labouring under the illusion that you couldn't reliably slap a pwm controlled dcc pump to a normal 3 pin fan controller which is why Darlene's test got me so excited. But if you can then that's just great stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all I prefer to be able to control everything from one place rather than having some of the stuff behind a controller and some behind software. Tends to reduce those "I think we forgot something" moments.
Click to expand...

PWM does offer more control,the actual pump motor is no different to the normal DDC,the board is modified to allow PWM control
Much like the D5,the vario can be converted to PWM with a 12euro board from Aquacomputer.

My understanding is that PWM has a better torque curve when used as pump control due to the non voltage reducing method of control.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PWM does offer more control,the actual pump motor is no different to the normal DDC,the board is modified to allow PWM control
> Much like the D5,the vario can be converted to PWM with a 12euro board from Aquacomputer.
> 
> My understanding is that PWM has a better torque curve when used as pump control due to the non voltage reducing method of control.


Righto. That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for this, your answer actually brings together a bunch pwm theory stuff that's felt disjointed so far.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> They're 1400rpm D14SM-12s that I got for 3.62€ untit.
> 
> EDIT: just opened my case and stopped one of those Yates. I was wrong, they're normal which is really weird since on the frame side I can't feel any airflow but on the top of the case from where it is apparently intaking I can. Oh well, that's surprising but probably less than if they had really been inverted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They're pretty damn good for 3.62€ fans then to be pulling air through that 55mm rad AND the foam dust filter on the Arc Midi R2


impossible to beat a loon for the price. best performing fan under $10. frys had the enermax magma on sale a few weeks ago $5. i couldnt make it in time or i would have swapped out all my yates.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PWM does offer more control,the actual pump motor is no different to the normal DDC,the board is modified to allow PWM control
> Much like the D5,the vario can be converted to PWM with a 12euro board from Aquacomputer.
> 
> My understanding is that PWM has a better torque curve when used as pump control due to the non voltage reducing method of control.
> 
> 
> 
> Righto. That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for this, your answer actually brings together a bunch pwm theory stuff that's felt disjointed so far.
Click to expand...

Im no PWM expert by any means,IT Diva is leaps and bounds ahead of me with that.

PWM works on 12v being applied on/off over a cycle (duty cycle),the cycle wave is then altered to produce the speed required,the longer on the 'on' part of cycle,the more speed results.

The torque curve is better as the pump is operated fully on at 12v rather than reduced voltage.

This is my understanding,feel free to comment.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PWM does offer more control,the actual pump motor is no different to the normal DDC,the board is modified to allow PWM control
> Much like the D5,the vario can be converted to PWM with a 12euro board from Aquacomputer.
> 
> My understanding is that PWM has a better torque curve when used as pump control due to the non voltage reducing method of control.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im no PWM expert by any means,IT Diva is leaps and bounds ahead of me with that.
> 
> PWM works on 12v being applied on/off over a cycle (duty cycle),the cycle wave is then altered to produce the speed required,the longer on the 'on' part of cycle,the more speed results.
> 
> The torque curve is better as the pump is operated fully on at 12v rather than reduced voltage.
> 
> This is my understanding,feel free to comment.


That would be correct


----------



## cyphon

Why does no one have the EK 7950 backplates :/ PPCs finally got 2 in, but I need 3....so frustrating


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Why does no one have the EK 7950 backplates :/ PPCs finally got 2 in, but I need 3....so frustrating


Its an older (slight tbh) product so its whatever they have in stock. Its like trying to find things for the 5xx and 6xxx series. What ever is out there is pretty much in stock. I'm sure they're prepping for 9xxx series and continuing to do the 7xx series.


----------



## kcuestag

Here it is, with the new smaller tubing (from 19/13mm to 16/11mm) and the EK CSQ fittings and PSC adapters (Some bitspower too):





Looks much better now, I've also added two more AP-15's to the bottom MONSTA rad. I really like this Mayhems Pastel white coolant, it's amazing.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Finally all parts are arrived


Is that a flow meter? ...If so, where would one mount it in the case?


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*











beautiful
http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092836&kind2=22


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Why does no one have the EK 7950 backplates :/ PPCs finally got 2 in, but I need 3....so frustrating


Grab'em while you can. At the very least, you'll have two in the hand rather than none at all...

I just bought a couple of the hard to get EK blocks for my Titan early this morning, but didn't think to get the backplates or acrylic bridge while placing my order.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Grab'em while you can. I just bought a couple of the hard to get EK blocks for my Titan early this morning.


780 (and titan) are still fairly new so blocks and parts should be plentiful for now. Retailers will stock up on demand. I like that frozencpu.com lets you pre-order stuff.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here it is, with the new smaller tubing (from 19/13mm to 16/11mm) and the EK CSQ fittings and PSC adapters (Some bitspower too):
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks much better now, I've also added two more AP-15's to the bottom MONSTA rad. I really like this Mayhems Pastel white coolant, it's amazing.


Wonderful! Much better now. Did you remove that single rad from the back?

By 16/11mm you mean 3/8x5/8?

Also what was your tubing before and what's the new one? Was the smaller tubing easier to install on the fittings?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 780 (and titan) are still fairly new so blocks and parts should be plentiful for now. Retailers will stock up on demand. I like that frozencpu.com lets you pre-order stuff.


No disrespect to "Frozen", but PPCs sold me on their prices and impecable customer service. So for that, if they don't have what I need, then I'll just have to wait it out until they do.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Is that a flow meter? ...If so, where would one mount it in the case?


Yes it is a flow meter
Anywhere you'd like to mount it
You really do not need it unless you really want a spinning wheel in your case


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Wonderful! Much better now. Did you remove that single rad from the back?
> 
> By 16/11mm you mean 3/8x5/8?
> 
> Also what was your tubing before and what's the new one? Was the smaller tubing easier to install on the fittings?


Thanks.









To be honest, I have no idea what the sizes are in the US system, but I went from 19/13mm (Biggest available I think) to 16/11mm. The tubing was harder to install on these, but once inside the fitting, the compression 'ring' from the fitting was much easier to tighten, so overall a better tubing/fitting choice, and it looks better imo, the other one was way too big.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Grab'em while you can. At the very least, you'll have two in the hand rather than none at all...
> 
> I just bought a couple of the hard to get EK blocks for my Titan early this morning, but didn't think to get the backplates or acrylic bridge while placing my order.


Lol, yeah I grabbed em and hit the 'notify me' button. I could order directly from EK, but I think the shipping on it was gonna be rough


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Lol, yeah I grabbed em and hit the 'notify me' button. I could order directly from EK, but I think the shipping on it was gonna be rough


I did the same thing and checked EK's prices before discovering PPCs had them. And as it turned out, PPCs was cheaper than EK by $22 dollars per block... And that's not even including the shipping costs from EK.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> No disrespect to "Frozen", but PPCs sold me on their prices and impecable customer service. So for that, if they don't have what I need, then I'll just have to wait it out until they do.


ppcs.com is my first stop







Selection is better at ppcs.com but frozencpu sometimes has better shipping rates.
Frozen will usually mark up a few dollars more then ppcs.com







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Specialtech.co.uk.

That is all.

Carry on.


----------



## wermad

Here are the shops i buy stuff from (in order of most frequent):

performance-pcs.com
frozencpu.com
sidewindercomputers.com
jab-tech.com
koolertek.com
svc.com (cali tax







)


----------



## zmegati

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Is that a flow meter? ...If so, where would one mount it in the case?


When I get absolutely all parts and when it's all over as I imagined You see where I'm going to place it.


----------



## PhantomTaco

While this is only CLC cooling, I'm really proud of this and wanted to show it off, sure no one will mind?












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








What do you guys think?? Also sorry they load sideways...i have no freaking clue why


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here it is, with the new smaller tubing (from 19/13mm to 16/11mm) and the EK CSQ fittings and PSC adapters (Some bitspower too):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks much better now, I've also added two more AP-15's to the bottom MONSTA rad. I really like this Mayhems Pastel white coolant, it's amazing.


Great! looks better with the smaller tubing.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> While this is only CLC cooling, I'm really proud of this and wanted to show it off, sure no one will mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?? Also sorry they load sideways...i have no freaking clue why






Neat Light box.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> "zmegati"
> 
> I disassembled my old Zalman CPU and GPU coolers and after a 1 year used they look very good:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those zalman parts aluminum or copper? If they are aluminum, I seriously hope you're not planning on actually using them in a loop, with the galvanic corrosion and all


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Here are the shops i buy stuff from (in order of most frequent):
> 
> performance-pcs.com
> frozencpu.com
> sidewindercomputers.com
> jab-tech.com
> koolertek.com
> svc.com (cali tax
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Looks like my list as well, lol

Every now and then I will order direct from the manufacture


----------



## mironccr345

Love my buddies build.


----------



## Lucky 23

My Eisberg


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Why does no one have the EK 7950 backplates :/ PPCs finally got 2 in, but I need 3....so frustrating


Order directly from EK then


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> impossible to beat a loon for the price. best performing fan under $10. frys had the enermax magma on sale a few weeks ago $5. i couldnt make it in time or i would have swapped out all my yates.


I got my four 140mm Akasa Apache Blacks for 6€ each but while they do beat the Yates on an purely aesthetical level I'm not sure if they do performance-wise ^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> While this is only CLC cooling, I'm really proud of this and wanted to show it off, sure no one will mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?? Also sorry they load sideways...i have no freaking clue why


What are those "light walls" I've been seeing lately ?
Are they expensive and can you make them any size and shape you want







?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Love my buddies build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like those sideways cases, much more than rATX ones







.
I'll be getting a good GPU and I'm 100% the block will be from EK (since bitspower products are way overpriced and other then those two nobody else does acrylic blocks), is that last part on your block included in the box (would make sense, otherwise most people would need 90° fittings and that would look any good) or did you have to pay extra for it ? I'm talking about that "single card bridge"







.


----------



## fakeblood

External Rad / Res / Pump / Fan Controller shroud

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00618_zps42594a11.jpg.html


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> External Rad / Res / Pump / Fan Controller shroud
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00618_zps42594a11.jpg.html


Do you have any log? never mind its in your sig
I'm dreaming of having a M-ITX build with external cooling


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> PWM does offer more control,the actual pump motor is no different to the normal DDC,the board is modified to allow PWM control
> 
> 
> Much like the D5,the vario can be converted to PWM with a 12euro board from Aquacomputer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My understanding is that PWM has a better torque curve when used as pump control due to the non voltage reducing method of control.


I'm very interested in this kind of mod. Would you be so kind and share a link or part details? Thanks.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> What are those "light walls" I've been seeing lately ?
> Are they expensive and can you make them any size and shape you want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Those tend to be DIY copies of the murderMod's original luminous panel. More experienced peeps correct me if I'm wrong but at the moment there doesn't seem to be ready made commercial alternative, so your options are to either to make one yourself or have a fellow moder craft one for you. I would not rate materials costs as terribly high as basically what you're going to need will be a length of led strip, clear acrylic and opaque / satic ice acrylic. The panels come in thick and nowadays also increasingly thin (mine will be 5mm) versions.
Banthracis has a really good how-to study on this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1187138/banthracis-led-acrylic-lighting-testing-murdermod-luminous-panel-analysis


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Those tend to be DIY copies of the murderMod's original luminous panel. More experienced peeps correct me if I'm wrong but at the moment there doesn't seem to be ready made commercial alternative, so your options are to either to make one yourself or have a fellow moder craft one for you. I would not rate materials costs as terribly high as basically what you're going to need will be a length of led strip, clear acrylic and opaque / satic ice acrylic. The panels come in thick and nowadays also increasingly thin (mine will be 5mm) versions.
> Banthracis has a really good how-to study on this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1187138/banthracis-led-acrylic-lighting-testing-murdermod-luminous-panel-analysis


Thanks for the link. I'll bookmark it but it's probably one of those things I'll never bother doing ^^


----------



## RickRockerr

Can someone recommend good 13/10mm tubing from aquatuning? Clear or red. at the moment I have masterkleer tubing and i think this is way too soft


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Love my buddies build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. Like the green. I think he should go pastel


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All pumps and fans can be controlled with a normal fancontroller,they also report the RPMs correctly.
> Darlene has made this control board for controlling PWM fans which are normally just plugged into a PWM header on the mobo for automated control via a profile curve.
> 
> 
> 
> Still pretty new to this water cooling business, I was labouring under the illusion that you couldn't reliably slap a pwm controlled dcc pump to a normal 3 pin fan controller which is why Darlene's test got me so excited. But if you can then that's just great stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all I prefer to be able to control everything from one place rather than having some of the stuff behind a controller and some behind software. Tends to reduce those "I think we forgot something" moments.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> PWM does offer more control,the actual pump motor is no different to the normal DDC,the board is modified to allow PWM control
> Much like the D5,the vario can be converted to PWM with a 12euro board from Aquacomputer.
> 
> My understanding is that PWM has a better torque curve when used as pump control due to the non voltage reducing method of control.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PWM does offer more control,the actual pump motor is no different to the normal DDC,the board is modified to allow PWM control
> Much like the D5,the vario can be converted to PWM with a 12euro board from Aquacomputer.
> 
> My understanding is that PWM has a better torque curve when used as pump control due to the non voltage reducing method of control.
> 
> 
> 
> Righto. That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for this, your answer actually brings together a bunch pwm theory stuff that's felt disjointed so far.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PWM does offer more control,the actual pump motor is no different to the normal DDC,the board is modified to allow PWM control
> Much like the D5,the vario can be converted to PWM with a 12euro board from Aquacomputer.
> 
> My understanding is that PWM has a better torque curve when used as pump control due to the non voltage reducing method of control.
> 
> 
> 
> Righto. That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for this, your answer actually brings together a bunch pwm theory stuff that's felt disjointed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Im no PWM expert by any means,IT Diva is leaps and bounds ahead of me with that.
> 
> PWM works on 12v being applied on/off over a cycle (duty cycle),the cycle wave is then altered to produce the speed required,the longer on the 'on' part of cycle,the more speed results.
> 
> The torque curve is better as the pump is operated fully on at 12v rather than reduced voltage.
> 
> This is my understanding,feel free to comment.
Click to expand...

At the risk of some oversimplification, here's basically why PWM has better low speed control and torque, and can run a pump slower than just lowering the voltage can;

Given that current draw, (amps) is proportional to the applied voltage when the resistance, (load) stays the same . . . .

If we take a D5, for example, that draws nominally 2A, (amps) at 12V, that would be 24W of power.

If we apply half the voltage, 6V, then it draws half the current, 1A, and therefore 6W of power.

*Notice that as we applied 1/2 the voltage, we cut the power to only 1/4 of the original value.*

Now let's see what PWM gives us:

Same D5 with 12V at 100% pulse width . . .

12V, times 2A, times 100%, equals 24W . . .

Now cut the PW to 50%;

12V, times 2A, times 50%, equals 12W

*At 50% duty cycle (PW) we now have 12W of power instead of 6W.*

Darlene


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I got my four 140mm Akasa Apache Blacks for 6€ each but while they do beat the Yates on an purely aesthetical level I'm not sure if they do performance-wise ^^
> What are those "light walls" I've been seeing lately ?
> Are they expensive and can you make them any size and shape you want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> I really like those sideways cases, much more than rATX ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I'll be getting a good GPU and I'm 100% the block will be from EK (since bitspower products are way overpriced and other then those two nobody else does acrylic blocks), is that last part on your block included in the box (would make sense, otherwise most people would need 90° fittings and that would look any good) or did you have to pay extra for it ? I'm talking about that "single card bridge"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks! The part you're referring to does not come with the block. I know, I was PO that I had to spend another 10.00+shipping for the bridge. You can get it here if you're interested.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Nice. Like the green. I think he should go pastel


I tried to mix ID with UV Green, turned out to be a pastel Mint. I didn't like it so I used UV Green Dye for his build. It looks better than pastel.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Thanks! The part you're referring to does not come with the block. I know, I was PO that I had to spend another 10.00+shipping for the bridge. You can get it here if you're interested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to mix ID with UV Green, turned out to be a pastel Mint. I didn't like it so I used UV Green Dye for his build. It looks better than pastel.


How can one not feel robbed when buying thoses... Hopefully they'll have better blocks for next Gen AMD GPUs.


----------



## akiles333

I have the airflow coming in trough the front and out the top and back. I was wondering how big of an impact this has on my temps, i have 2x 240 rads cooling 2 780 and a 3770k. Some guy has a similar build that he called zebra II, and he's getting 42 max on the 780's and i'm getting around 60.. ambient is around 22-24 degrees. so, is all the hot air coming from the front "crippling" the performance of the top 240?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> 
> I have the airflow coming in trough the front and out the top and back. I was wondering how big of an impact this has on my temps, i have 2x 240 rads cooling 2 780 and a 3770k. Some guy has a similar build that he called zebra II, and he's getting 42 max on the 780's and i'm getting around 60.. ambient is around 22-24 degrees. so, is all the hot air coming from the front "crippling" the performance of the top 240?


NEED MORE RAD


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> 
> I have the airflow coming in trough the front and out the top and back. I was wondering how big of an impact this has on my temps, i have 2x 240 rads cooling 2 780 and a 3770k. Some guy has a similar build that he called zebra II, and he's getting 42 max on the 780's and i'm getting around 60.. ambient is around 22-24 degrees. so, is all the hot air coming from the front "crippling" the performance of the top 240?


Flip the fans on the top rad to intake to answer your question,if the temps remain the same then no.


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flip the fans on the top rad to intake to answer your question,if the temps remain the same then no.


Yeah, i'm gonna try that


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know on my air cooled I have 3 intakes (2 on front and 1 on bottom of my case) then my 3 exhaust are on the 2 top (140mm) and 1 rear (120mm) and I seem to keep my temps low on my air setup (Idle 10c, just surfing 18-20c, full gaming load 30-38c). But with liquid might not have enough airflow and coolant flow/size of rad to cause a significant cool down of the system. Also alot of manufacturers have a preferred layout of how the airflow in their case should be for best results (that's what I went by, but again I'm aircooled at the moment not liquid). Really for the top I'd have the fans as an exhaust and if I had room I'd try a push/pull on the rad to see if it dropped the temps. Also the exterior air coming in isn't helping you too much either.


----------



## Destrto

I have a quick question about full cover water blocks for the 7950's. Do they require shims? Or are they made to fit without needing extra equipment?


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a quick question about full cover water blocks for the 7950's. Do they require shims? Or are they made to fit without needing extra equipment?


Full cover do not require shims as they are made specific.

As far as performance pcs I have had them order a block for a 9800 gtx+ straight from EK so that I didn't have to pay import fees, they just had me prepay via paypal, just had to email their support. Ended up paying like $35 total for the block, where shipping it from EK was going to cost like $30 in shipping..

That is why they are always my first stop.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Full cover do not require shims as they are made specific.
> 
> As far as performance pcs I have had them order a block for a 9800 gtx+ straight from EK so that I didn't have to pay import fees, they just had me prepay via paypal, just had to email their support. Ended up paying like $35 total for the block, where shipping it from EK was going to cost like $30 in shipping..
> 
> That is why they are always my first stop.


Thank you. That is exactly what I was wanting to know.


----------



## Daredevil 720

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999249
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999234

Are these fan filters any good? Which one would you get?

I want some low-restriction fan filters that won't get sucked on the blades of my AP-15s.

The first one, although nicer, seems very thin and I'm worried that it will get sucked by the AP-15s and collide with the blades. This same thing happens currently with my case's filter and is the reason why I want to move on to fan filters. It makes a really bad noise.


----------



## acefblue

Finally finished my first water cooling build.

Everything seems to be fine but there is still a question.

I only overclock the 4770K to 4.2G @1.24V, but the temp was over 80℃ during Prime95. Is that normal for a XSPC raystorm? By the way the cpu and 2 GTX780s are in series, the temps of GPU are around 40℃ after 30mins furmark test. So I assume that there should be nothing wrong with the loop.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acefblue*
> 
> Finally finished my first water cooling build.
> 
> Everything seems to be fine but there is still a question.
> 
> I only overclock the 4770K to 4.2G @1.24V, but the temp was over 80℃ during Prime95. Is that normal for a XSPC raystorm? By the way the cpu and 2 GTX780s are in series, the temps of GPU are around 40℃ after 30mins furmark test. So I assume that there should be nothing wrong with the loop.


Did you take the plastic off of the block? It is hard to see on the Raystorm, and that is about 40c high.

and what pump do you have?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

4770k stock lidding...sounds about right.

*sarcasm*


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Looking at that block, I can already tell that I bought the wrong ones for my Titan, if I'm ever to do a dual bridge link between the two. But, I can always do crystal links, so it's not that big a deal. Plus, EK doesn't offer those CSQ blocks in clear acrylic to match my existing Supreme blocks - unless I wet sanded those CSQ blocks down to match... So, I supose it's all for the best.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acefblue*
> 
> Finally finished my first water cooling build.
> 
> Everything seems to be fine but there is still a question.
> 
> I only overclock the 4770K to 4.2G @1.24V, but the temp was over 80℃ during Prime95. Is that normal for a XSPC raystorm? By the way the cpu and 2 GTX780s are in series, the temps of GPU are around 40℃ after 30mins furmark test. So I assume that there should be nothing wrong with the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your temps seem high, I have a raystorm block and after 24hr's of prime my high has not gone past 69 running 4.6Ghz at 1.3V , you should be lower than that at your OC and voltage. You might want to check your mounting. However, it also depends on your ambient temperature. What is your ambient and idle temps?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999249
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999234
> 
> Are these fan filters any good? Which one would you get?
> 
> I want some low-restriction fan filters that won't get sucked on the blades of my AP-15s.
> 
> The first one, although nicer, seems very thin and I'm worried that it will get sucked by the AP-15s and collide with the blades. This same thing happens currently with my case's filter and is the reason why I want to move on to fan filters. It makes a really bad noise.


I have used the FF123B's without any issue in the past, however I think the FF122's would be better for your case because of the inner frame should prevent the fan from sucking in the filter.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acefblue*
> 
> Finally finished my first water cooling build.


Which Caselabs case is that? I was going to get the SM8, but I like the idea of hiding the HDD's/SSD's and PSU.


----------



## acefblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Did you take the plastic off of the block? It is hard to see on the Raystorm, and that is about 40c high.
> 
> and what pump do you have?


The plastic was taken off. I use two MCP655 pumps in series.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Those tend to be DIY copies of the murderMod's original luminous panel. More experienced peeps correct me if I'm wrong but at the moment there doesn't seem to be ready made commercial alternative, so your options are to either to make one yourself or have a fellow moder craft one for you. I would not rate materials costs as terribly high as basically what you're going to need will be a length of led strip, clear acrylic and opaque / satic ice acrylic. The panels come in thick and nowadays also increasingly thin (mine will be 5mm) versions.
> Banthracis has a really good how-to study on this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1187138/banthracis-led-acrylic-lighting-testing-murdermod-luminous-panel-analysis


Jeffinslaw is a guy on here that had intentions of making remade light boxes, but its not profitable enough so it fell through. However what he did looked beautiful, I'd PM him about making one he should be able to help you out.


----------



## acefblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Your temps seem high, I have a raystorm block and after 24hr's of prime my high has not gone past 69 running 4.6Ghz at 1.3V , you should be lower than that at your OC and voltage. You might want to check your mounting. However, it also depends on your ambient temperature. What is your ambient and idle temps?


The ambient temp is 28. Idel temp is 31. I checked the mounting and could not find anything abnormal.


----------



## acefblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Which Caselabs case is that? I was going to get the SM8, but I like the idea of hiding the HDD's/SSD's and PSU.


It is a caselabs T10.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acefblue*
> 
> Finally finished my first water cooling build.
> 
> Everything seems to be fine but there is still a question.
> 
> *I only overclock the 4770K to 4.2G @1.24V, but the temp was over 80℃ during Prime95*. Is that normal for a XSPC raystorm? By the way the cpu and 2 GTX780s are in series, the temps of GPU are around 40℃ after 30mins furmark test. So I assume that there should be nothing wrong with the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is pretty much expected, even on water (







) for IB and Haswell. As some have mentioned, delid (vise or blade), replace the crap intel crud with the good stuff. The Haswell club should have the recommendations for the new thermal compound. Expect ~50-60°c 4.2-4.5. Temps are pretty much inline w/ SB once you delid.


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Jeffinslaw is a guy on here that had intentions of making remade light boxes, but its not profitable enough so it fell through. However what he did looked beautiful, I'd PM him about making one he should be able to help you out.


I know that ricardo at coldzero makes light boxes for the tj07. I would shoot him a message whenever he opens his site back up and check with him if he would make one for a different case


----------



## stickg1

So I'm not sure what I did wrong. I installed brand new Primochill Advance LRT tubing, started out clear and is starting to get foggy. I flushed everything with distilled water. The only liquid I have run in any of these components is distilled water with a drop or two of mayhems biocide.

Started clear:
http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/closefinished1_zps6b3212f9.jpg.html

Now it's fogged, 24 hours later.
http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/samcam2_zpseecd442b.jpg.html

EDIT: Notice the water is still crystal clear in the reservoir. I just put in this tubing yesterday....

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/samcam3_zps2d5cb725.jpg.html


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So I'm not sure what I did wrong. I installed brand new Primochill Advance LRT tubing, started out clear and is starting to get foggy. I flushed everything with distilled water. The only liquid I have run in any of these components is distilled water with a drop or two of mayhems biocide.
> 
> Started clear:
> 
> Now it's fogged, 24 hours later.
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/samcam2_zpseecd442b.jpg.html
> 
> EDIT: Notice the water is still crystal clear in the reservoir. I just put in this tubing yesterday....


This sucks. I was just looking at purchasing some of this for my own loop. Maybe it's time to start looking into acrylic.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acefblue*
> 
> Finally finished my first water cooling build.
> 
> Everything seems to be fine but there is still a question.
> 
> I only overclock the 4770K to 4.2G @1.24V, but the temp was over 80℃ during Prime95. Is that normal for a XSPC raystorm? By the way the cpu and 2 GTX780s are in series, the temps of GPU are around 40℃ after 30mins furmark test. So I assume that there should be nothing wrong with the loop.


nvm you answered that already (what case it is)
Looks good btw.


----------



## stickg1

I had some 3/4 OD last week that went a month with no fogging. This 5/8 fogged overnight.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is pretty much expected, even on water (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) for IB and Haswell. As some have mentioned, delid (vise or blade), replace the crap intel crud with the good stuff. The Haswell club should have the recommendations for the new thermal compound. Expect ~50-60°c 4.2-4.5. Temps are pretty much inline w/ SB once you delid.


I have a 3570k non delid overclocked to 4.7ghz with only a 240mm rad (no where near the amount of rad space he has) and max temps are around 70c


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I have a 3570k non delid overclocked to 4.7ghz with only a 240mm rad (no where near the amount of rad space he has) and max temps are around 70c


Wow....."And Ladies and Gentlemen.......I Believe We Have Found A Winner For This Evening's Silicon Lottery Drawing"

"Applause"









"Music Cues"


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> nvm you answered that already (what case it is)
> Looks good btw.


It's a Caselabs T10, and probably my new reason for choosing it as my next case build


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow....."And Ladies and Gentlemen.......I Believe We Have Found A Winner For This Evening's Silicon Lottery Drawing"
> 
> "Applause"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Music Cues"


LOL


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I have a 3570k non delid overclocked to 4.7ghz with only a 240mm rad (no where near the amount of rad space he has) and max temps are around 70c


Then you're probably part of the minority who got decent chips







. This is what they were referring to as the cpu lottery and getting lucky with a nice chip. Take a look at the reviews and see how many of the IB and Haswell chips easily hit 90c w/ mild overclocks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow....."And Ladies and Gentlemen.......I Believe We Have Found A Winner For This Evening's Silicon Lottery Drawing"
> 
> "Applause"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Music Cues"


Yeah, but what is his ambient temperature? Are we sure he's not running his system in a refrigerator?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow....."And Ladies and Gentlemen.......I Believe We Have Found A Winner For This Evening's Silicon Lottery Drawing"
> 
> "Applause"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Music Cues"


Everyone I've talked to has said that I have an average to slightly above average chip Just provided that to show wermad and acefblue that there might be something wrong with his system. I have a raystorm and it's kind of hard to get a good mount so it may be that.

Edit: Ambient temps were around the 20s in Celsius however that was in winter time so ambients may have changed now.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yeah, but what is his ambient temperature? Are we sure he's not running his system in a refrigerator?


True, I never actually asked. Ok Here We Go....
Sir, are you an Eskimo? It's OK. We don't judge here at OCN

No Seriously....
But you do live in an Igloo, correct?

I bet he has one of those Asrock boards with the "Frost-Proof" coating


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> True, I never actually asked. Ok Here We Go....
> Sir, are you an Eskimo? It's OK. We don't judge here at OCN
> 
> No Seriously....
> But you do live in an Igloo, correct?
> 
> I bet he has one of those Asrock boards with the "Frost-Proof" coating


----------



## mr. biggums

jumped down to this 350D been having fun with it so far











Can't really get a good shot of it in the dark, since the only camera I own makes it look terrible but this is the best shot.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> jumped down to this 350D been having fun with it so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't really get a good shot of it in the dark, since the only camera I own makes it look terrible but this is the best shot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The 1st picture looks beautiful. I think you should edit the post and delete that 2nd pic =P
Maybe take a cpl pics without the side panel. Love the rig though









You know that your sig shows that you have a Rampage IV Formula Gene? Just a heads up


----------



## Sunreeper

No I live in Canada again ambients were around 21c. The average overclock for most non delid ivy's is 4.5-4.6ghz.


----------



## wermad

I'm ~30c ambient right now in the summer. So my cpu does go up a few ticks. With a *winter* ambient of 20c, that could be lending to the lower temps. with a higher ambient, I'm sure you'll start scratching 75-80c. Or you have four delta fans









On a serious note, if you have a golden chip there, then deliding show drop the temps even further. Have you pushed it beyond 4.7 btw? If its this good, you may be able to hit 4.9-5.3


----------



## Sunreeper

I'm telling you my chip is only slightly above average there are chips that can do 5.00ghz at only 1.21 volts those are true golden chips







Almost anybody with a high end air cooler can hit 4.6ghz with an ivy their really not that bad. I just checked my ambient right now and its at 22c with air conditioning I don't think it'd make much of a difference. I'm pretty sure I can hit 5ghz but I'm going to need more rads most likely since I don't want temps to reach 80c also I have a 3930k just sitting here waiting for a motherboard so I'd rather overclock that and give this chip to my brother.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> True, I never actually asked. Ok Here We Go....
> Sir, are you an Eskimo? It's OK. We don't judge here at OCN
> 
> No Seriously....
> But you do live in an Igloo, correct?
> 
> I bet he has one of those Asrock boards with the "Frost-Proof" coating












...then again I used to get cpu -1'C warning every time I opened my balcony door for a bit for ventilation last winter.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> also I have a 3930k just sitting here waiting for a motherboard so I'd rather overclock that and give this chip to my brother.


Lol I have a RIVE just sitting here with no CPU waiting for my 4930k =P
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...then again I used to get cpu -1'C warning every time I opened my balcony door for a bit for ventilation last winter.


So we DO have an Eskimo in the forum


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So I'm not sure what I did wrong. I installed brand new Primochill Advance LRT tubing, started out clear and is starting to get foggy. I flushed everything with distilled water. The only liquid I have run in any of these components is distilled water with a drop or two of mayhems biocide.
> 
> Started clear:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/closefinished1_zps6b3212f9.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's fogged, 24 hours later.
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/samcam2_zpseecd442b.jpg.html
> 
> EDIT: Notice the water is still crystal clear in the reservoir. I just put in this tubing yesterday....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/samcam3_zps2d5cb725.jpg.html


That's a real shame








Could it possibly be due to flux etc from the rads? or a ph issue?
I was thinking about changing to adv lrt, but after seeing these pics I've taken the plunge and just bought hard acrylic fittings and I'll try that route


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That's a real shame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could it possibly be due to flux etc from the rads? or a ph issue?
> I was thinking about changing to adv lrt, but after seeing these pics I've taken the plunge and just bought hard acrylic fittings and I'll try that route


IDK man, I mean I had the same exact components only I was using a 3/4" OD size Advance LRT and I decided to go 7/16"/5/8" to get rid of the hose clamps and now all the sudden I am completely fogged. Both are Advance LRT, IDK what the hell happened but I'm pretty upset about it. I can't just clean the hoses out, when you do undersize tubing it has to be cut off of the barbs it wont slide off, I would have to order all new tubing....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> IDK man, I mean I had the same exact components only I was using a 3/4" OD size Advance LRT and I decided to go 7/16"/5/8" to get rid of the hose clamps and now all the sudden I am completely fogged. Both are Advance LRT, IDK what the hell happened but I'm pretty upset about it. I can't just clean the hoses out, when you do undersize tubing it has to be cut off of the barbs it wont slide off, I would have to order all new tubing....


Hit up primochill and I'm sure they will send you a new roll.


----------



## Pimphare

Hello all, I have a water cooling question for those experienced with overclocking. I have a Corsair Obsidian 650D midsize tower and plan on running a custom water loop in it eventually. My CPU is an Intel I5-3570K and I'll have two Nvidia GTX 760's in SLI. Now I'll have a single water loop and I plan on doing some overclocking the CPU for sure and probably the GPU's a little. I can fit a 280mm rad at the top and a 200mm rad in the front. I'll also be getting a Swiftech MCP655 water pump. I'm not exactly sure on what radiators I'll be going with yet. I understand it also boils down to the fpi and the thickness of the rads plus fan configuration.

With the information I've given, will this be sufficient enough to keep things nice and frosty? Or should I go with another configuration? I'd like to hear your suggestions. Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hello all, I have a water cooling question for those experienced with overclocking. I have a Corsair Obsidian 650D midsize tower and plan on running a custom water loop in it eventually. My CPU is an Intel I5-3570K and I'll have two Nvidia GTX 760's in SLI. Now I'll have a single water loop and I plan on doing some overclocking the CPU for sure and probably the GPU's a little. I can fit a 280mm rad at the top and a 200mm rad in the front. I'll also be getting a Swiftech MCP655 water pump. I'm not exactly sure on what radiators I'll be going with yet. I understand it also boils down to the fpi and the thickness of the rads plus fan configuration.
> 
> With the information I've given, will this be sufficient enough to keep things nice and frosty? Or should I go with another configuration? I'd like to hear your suggestions. Thanks!


Recommend alphacool xt45 280mm 45mm thick (if you have enough space, UT60, 60mm thick). Other big brands are recommended too (phobya, ek, xspc, bi, coolgate, swiftech, etc.).

For the 200mm, recommend a Phobya 200mm rad, 45mm thick.

There's an Antec 200mm rad, skip it as its aluminum.

a 280 and 200 should be enough for your loop.

Alternatively for the 200mm rad, you go w/ an Alphacool or Magicool 180mm rad.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Recommend alphacool xt45 280mm 45mm thick (if you have enough space, UT60, 60mm thick). For the 200mm, recommend a Phobya 200mm rad, 45mm thick.
> 
> There's an Antec 200mm rad, skip it as its aluminum.
> 
> Alternatively for the 200mm rad, you go w/ an Alphacool or Magicool 180mm rad.


Idk
but Ive never been a fond of any 140 rads or even 200
technically , more surface area = more cooling performance, yes...
but the options for the fans are very limited, i'd rather go 120 with good fans both for performance and look


----------



## pc-illiterate

on the 140 end of that though, you can use 140 to 120 adapters and have the best of both. you just lose about 12-13mm of space for fans per adapter.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a quick question about full cover water blocks for the 7950's. Do they require shims? Or are they made to fit without needing extra equipment?


Look in my build log for crowbar (see signature) I just put 3 ek blocks on my 3 7950s. You don't need any extra equipment and I am just going to use a SLI fitting or Crystal link between them


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Idk
> but Ive never been a fond of any 140 rads or even 200
> technically , more surface area = more cooling performance, yes...
> but the options for the fans are very limited, i'd rather go 120 with good fans both for performance and look


Well, Pimphare asked for a 280 and 200 rad. So this are some suggestions. Personally, I would stick to 120mm fan size rads. but cases are now accommodating 140mm rads and some will have 200mm fans.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, Pimphare asked for a 280 and 200 rad. So this are some suggestions. Personally, I would stick to 120mm fan size rads. but cases are now accommodating 140mm rads and some will have 200mm fans.


not criticising you
just wanna look out for a bit of discussion with you since I know you are the man to listen to


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Hey guys/gals, i do plan on putting my system under-water,and i just would like to know would a 240mm on top and a 200mm in front be enough to cool my setup properly,and if possible i would add a 120mm in the rear,i know the case wasnt build for watercooling,but i have invested alot in the case and the acrylic panel and i will admit i love the case and wouldnt want to change it...Any help would be welcome,also if possible any idea's on what parts would be ideal for a setup like this....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> not criticising you
> just wanna look out for a bit of discussion with you since I know you are the man to listen to


No worries,







. I prefer 120mm rads mainly for the fan options. My current fans are great but some of them are unbalanced. Rather then spending extra dough on a new platform, i may switch to new rads and fans. Liking the corsair fans


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, Pimphare asked for a 280 and 200 rad. So this are some suggestions. Personally, I would stick to 120mm fan size rads. but cases are now accommodating 140mm rads and some will have 200mm fans.


Thanks for your replies. I'm not stuck on getting a 280mm or 200mm rad. I'm open to different sizes. Those are just the sizes I can go up to. I can also mount an additional 120mm rad at the back as long as I have enough clearance. Basically what I'd like to know is what is enough to keep my cpu and gpu's cool under load with some variations of overclocking? This will be my first water cooling experience.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Thanks for your replies. I'm not stuck on getting a 280mm or 200mm rad. I'm open to different sizes. Those are just the sizes I can go up to. I can also mount an additional 120mm rad at the back as long as I have enough clearance. Basically what I'd like to know is what is enough to keep my cpu and gpu's cool under load with some variations of overclocking? This will be my first water cooling experience.


Use this tip: for every core, 120x35 is fine (starting point). Anything bigger would be better (to a certain extent - law of diminishing return).

Ie. a 360mm rad can do fine

or a 280 + a 140

or 240 + 240

etc.

What's going to decide which rads you will need comes down to your fan choice(s). With a 280 and a 200, you'll need 140mm fans and a 200mm fan.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Use this tip: for every core, 120x35 is fine (starting point). Anything bigger would be better (to a certain extent - law of diminishing return).
> 
> Ie. a 360mm rad can do fine
> 
> or a 280 + a 140
> 
> or 240 + 240
> 
> etc.
> 
> What's going to decide which rads you will need comes down to your fan choice(s). With a 280 and a 200, you'll need 140mm fans and a 200mm fan.


I see. So other than this I suppose I'll have to decide on fan noise vs performance.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I see. So other than this I suppose I'll have to decide on fan noise vs performance.


Yup, also, you have a ton of options with 120mm fans. Selection for 140 has grown. 200mm, be careful as some 200mm fans have smaller mounting diameters.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup, also, you have a ton of options with 120mm fans. Selection for 140 has grown. 200mm, be careful as some 200mm fans have smaller mounting diameters.


Good points.

Also, its getting better, but historically, 120mm fans outperform the 140mm fans...


----------



## kpoeticg

120 rads have a much wider selection of high quality fans. But if you want a 140 rad, I highly recommend Akasa Vipers. They have excellent static pressure and are pretty quiet. I have a 280 UT60 with 4 Vipers on it, and GT AP-15's for all my 120's


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No worries,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I prefer 120mm rads mainly for the fan options. My current fans are great but some of them are unbalanced. Rather then spending extra dough on a new platform, i may switch to new rads and fans. Liking the corsair fans


Ive just found out yesterday
I am using a corsair 140 quiet edition for rear intake
at full speed , it really works well
the thing is once I put a demciflex fan filter, the spins become unbalance and it feels like the fan in working harder to spin

this really turns me off for 140 fans
thinking to swap it to a good 120 fan


----------



## kpoeticg

The Corsair 140's are Chassis fans though. They don't make their SP fans in 140 yet. Again, I highly recommend Akasa Viper 140's. In my opinion they're comparable to GT AP-15's. The only issue is they have yellow blades. I'm dying all my fans blades red with Rit Dye so that's not an issue for me


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The Corsair 140's are Chassis fans though. They don't make their SP fans in 140 yet. Again, I highly recommend Akasa Viper 140's. In my opinion they're comparable to GT AP-15's. The only issue is they have yellow blades. I'm dying all my fans blades red with Rit Dye so that's not an issue for me


Cougar isnt that bad i heard
but its orange -_-

how are you gonna rit dye a yellow blade with red?
wont it change to orange instead?


----------



## fakeblood

Leak testing









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00632_zpsabf48f59.jpg.html


----------



## skyn3t

@ wermad, read this lol and tell me what ya think post #57


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Cougar isnt that bad i heard
> but its orange -_-
> 
> how are you gonna rit dye a yellow blade with red?
> wont it change to orange instead?


No, it's not hard to dye anything ANY darker color. Dyeing things lighter colors is more difficult and would probly take ALOT of dye AND time. Like dyeing red blades to yellow for instance. Yellow -> Red is easy
Cougar fans are good from what i hear too. Akasa Vipers are excellent though. Vipers and Gentle Typhoons are the only fans i've ever referred to as Excellent. I'm not extremely experienced myself, but i have done alot of research on the topic. B-Gears B-Blaster's are supposed to be real good 140 rad fans too. I'd absolutely go with Akasa Vipers though. Especially if you don't mind dyeing the blades to the color you want.
If you want me to post a link to the tutorial that taught me how to dye fan blades let me know and i'll link it.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> No, it's not hard to dye anything ANY darker color. Dyeing things lighter colors is more difficult and would probly take ALOT of dye AND time. Like dyeing red blades to yellow for instance. Yellow -> Red is easy
> Cougar fans are good from what i hear too. Akasa Vipers are excellent though. Vipers and Gentle Typhoons are the only fans i've ever referred to as Excellent. I'm not extremely experienced myself, but i have done alot of research on the topic. B-Gears B-Blaster's are supposed to be real good 140 rad fans too. I'd absolutely go with Akasa Vipers though. Especially if you don't mind dyeing the blades to the color you want.
> If you want me to post a link to the tutorial that taught me how to dye fan blades let me know and i'll link it.


Yes please!
I really wanna dye my GT fans


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Yes please!
> I really wanna dye my GT fans


Guide For Dying Noctua Fans

It's a pretty informative thread. I learned a decent amount

If you wanna dye the housing too, you have to get the circuit board off first, and it's usually glued on there pretty well. Some people have broken their fans by using heat guns on that part for too long. If you just wanna dye the blades though it's pretty simple =)


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Guide For Dying Noctua Fans
> 
> It's a pretty informative thread. I learned a decent amount
> 
> If you wanna dye the housing too, you have to get the circuit board off first, and it's usually glued on there pretty well. Some people have broken their fans by using heat guns on that part for too long. If you just wanna dye the blades though it's pretty simple =)


Thx !
+1 will try it as soon as I can get a hold of rit/dylon dye


----------



## kpoeticg

I just ordered mine from the Rit website HERE It's being delivered to my house this week. Glad to help









Here's a color chart i found with a bunch of color recipes using rit powder dyes

Most of the color charts on the Rit site are using their Liquid Dyes. It probably works the same, but I'm real paranoid about throwing off the balance of my fan blades (Obviously, otherwise I'd just paint them







)


----------



## protzman

dem blues


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup, also, you have a ton of options with 120mm fans. Selection for 140 has grown. 200mm, be careful as some 200mm fans have smaller mounting diameters.


Yeah, I've been doing a lot of shopping around for parts and noticed the much wider selection of 120mm fans vs 140 and furthermore 200.
How about these fans?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-181-028%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20
Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition
RPM 1150
RPM Air Flow 67.8
CFM Noise Level 24 dBA

VS

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181027
Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition
RPM 2350
RPM Air Flow 62.74
CFM Noise Level 35 dBA


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yeah, I've been doing a lot of shopping around for parts and noticed the much wider selection of 120mm fans vs 140 and furthermore 200.
> How about these fans?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181027
> Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition
> RPM 1150
> RPM Air Flow 67.8
> CFM Noise Level 24 dBA
> 
> VS
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181027
> Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition
> RPM 2350
> RPM Air Flow 62.74
> CFM Noise Level 35 dBA


Same fans







The newegg product # is the same as well as the model number.

That's a great choice if you're looking for some of the best performance out a 120mm fan.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Same fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newegg product # is the same as well as the model number.
> 
> That's a great choice if you're looking for some of the best performance out a 120mm fan.


Oops. The top link was supposed to be this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-181-028%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Oops. The top link was supposed to be this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-181-028%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20


First one you linked is 120mm and its their performance range.

This one is the 140mm fan and are the "quiet" edition.


----------



## steelkevin

Is there a recent review of a 240mm rad setup vs a 280mm rad setup ?

It would ease my mind to know this 140mm bashing is actually justified.

Is there a wider choice of good 120mm rad fans ? Undeniable. But who cares ? You'll only need the one model.
Are there no good 140mm rad fans ? Entirely false. As people suggested Akasa Vipers are great and if you don't like the yellow touch the Akasa Apache are pretty much the same but black (or military style if you like those and can actually find them).


----------



## kpoeticg

240 rad vs 280 rad vs 120 rad vs 360 rad and so on isn't really debatable in my opinion. More surface area = more cooling
There is by far a wider selection of 120mm fans, especially for watercooling, but like you just stated, you only need ONE.
B Gears B-Blasters are also supposed to be very good rad fans. Those Corsair 140's are Chassis fans and probably have horrible static pressure, while the Sp120's hold their own with most fans. I mean, I look at it like Akasa Vipers are the GT AP-15's of the 140 rads, and GT AP-15's are the GT AP-15's of the 120 rads =P. If you want the best cooling then there's what you should get. Well unless you wanna go with super fans with louder noise.

But just like i don't think it's debatable that there's way more options for fans for 120 rads, i don't think its debatable that there's more surface area which means more cooling for 140 rads....

Just my humble opinion

If you really want the best cooling you can get, you should get the biggest rad you can fit. I have a 280 because its the biggest that will fit in the front. A 120 cuz its the biggest that will fit in the rear. And a 240 in the basement cuz it's the biggest i could fit without sacrificing much. If I wuz willing to sacrifice more, I woulda gone with another 280 or a 360. Bigger rad = Better cooling ( With exceptions like FPI density w/Fan speed )


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yeah, I've been doing a lot of shopping around for parts and noticed the much wider selection of 120mm fans vs 140 and furthermore 200.
> How about these fans?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-181-028%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20
> Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition
> RPM 1150
> RPM Air Flow 67.8
> CFM Noise Level 24 dBA
> 
> VS
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181027
> Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition
> RPM 2350
> RPM Air Flow 62.74
> CFM Noise Level 35 dBA


The sp120 are a high static pressure fan, and the af models are not. The af models move a lot of air but not if there is a lot of resistance. I use sp models on rads or as intake through filters and the af models work great as exhaust to dump all that air back out.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> First one you linked is 120mm and its their performance range.
> 
> This one is the 140mm fan and are the "quiet" edition.


Yes I know. I was looking at similar air flow with different size and noise.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 240 rad vs 280 rad vs 120 rad vs 360 rad and so on isn't really debatable in my opinion. More surface area = more cooling
> There is by far a wider selection of 120mm fans, especially for watercooling, but like you just stated, you only need ONE.
> B Gears B-Blasters are also supposed to be very good rad fans. Those Corsair 140's are Chassis fans and probably have horrible static pressure, while the Sp120's hold their own with most fans. I mean, I look at it like Akasa Vipers are the GT AP-15's of the 140 rads, and GT AP-15's are the GT AP-15's of the 120 rads =P. If you want the best cooling then there's what you should get. Well unless you wanna go with super fans with louder noise.
> 
> But just like i don't think it's debatable that there's way more options for fans for 120 rads, i don't think its debatable that there's more surface area which means more cooling for 140 rads....
> 
> Just my humble opinion
> 
> If you really want the best cooling you can get, you should get the biggest rad you can fit. I have a 280 because its the biggest that will fit in the front. A 120 cuz its the biggest that will fit in the rear. And a 240 in the basement cuz it's the biggest i could fit without sacrificing much. If I wuz willing to sacrifice more, I woulda gone with another 280 or a 360. Bigger rad = Better cooling ( With exceptions like FPI density w/Fan speed )


This is what I had figured. I just like to hear the opinions of others who have experience with water cooling before I spend a bunch of hard earned cash on this stuff.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The sp120 are a high static pressure fan, and the af models are not. The af models move a lot of air but not if there is a lot of resistance. I use sp models on rads or as intake through filters and the af models work great as exhaust to dump all that air back out.


Okay I think I see now. So sp=static pressure and af= air flow? I suppose I'll have to sacrifice noise for performance then. I'd rather have better performance overall.


----------



## kpoeticg

You don't want AF fans on a radiator. AF fans are for you mounting on your case for intake or exhaust when no radiator is involved. You don't necessarily have to sacrifice performance for noise. AF fans just aren't meant or used for water cooling. Good chassis fans aren't really hard to find in any size. Good rad fans are fewer and farther between. There's plenty of good fans that aren't loud. Just do your research.

Just to clear this up, I'm not an experienced watercooler. I'm in the process of doing my first build. But i researched ALOT before i even got started. One of the most common things i read when i got interested in watercooling and case-modding was "Plan, Plan, Plan". There's tons of research and user experiences out there. I don't think you'll find too many opinions that would differ about....Larger Rad = More Cooling Area = Better Cooling. But it's whatever you can fit in the case you want. And then whether or not you wanna mod that case to try and squeeze another rad or two =P

Just read up on the forums. Martinsliquidlab.org is a great place to go to see performance testing charts. He's only one person so he can only test so much but you'll get a better idea of what to look for if you spend some time between there and here. Do some searches here on OCN. There's a TON of build logs on here that will be helpful.

When you're looking at a fans stats, dBA = noise (lower is better), SP or mmH20 = Static Pressure = How well the fan will push air through a radiator (which is very important) (higher is better), CFM = Airflow (Cubic Feet Per Minute) (that's how much air the fan can move with no resistance, like a radiator, in front of it), RPM's important too (most of the better rad fans have high RPM's.

Keep in mind that most/all manufacturers pad their stats. But reading a fan's stats will give you a better idea of what it's capable of. Then searching on forums like OCN or sites like martinsliquidlab.org will give a much better idea of a particular fan.

That's my advice anyway. Good Luck!!!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You don't want AF fans on a radiator. AF fans are for you mounting on your case for intake or exhaust when no radiator is involved. You don't necessarily have to sacrifice performance for noise. AF fans just aren't meant or used for water cooling. Good chassis fans aren't really hard to find in any size. Good rad fans are fewer and farther between. There's plenty of good fans that aren't loud. Just do your research.
> 
> Just to clear this up, I'm not an experienced watercooler. I'm in the process of doing my first build. But i researched ALOT before i even got started. One of the most common things i read when i got interested in watercooling and case-modding was "Plan, Plan, Plan". There's tons of research and user experiences out there. I don't think you'll find too many opinions that would differ about....Larger Rad = More Cooling Area = Better Cooling. But it's whatever you can fit in the case you want. And then whether or not you wanna mod that case to try and squeeze another rad or two =P
> 
> Just read up on the forums. Martinsliquidlab.org is a great place to go to see performance testing charts. He's only one person so he can only test so much but you'll get a better idea of what to look for if you spend some time between there and here. Do some searches here on OCN. There's a TON of build logs on here that will be helpful.
> 
> When you're looking at a fans stats, dBA = noise (lower is better), SP or mmH20 = Static Pressure = How well the fan will push air through a radiator (which is very important) (higher is better), CFM = Airflow (Cubic Feet Per Minute) (that's how much air the fan can move with no resistance, like a radiator, in front of it), RPM's important too (most of the better rad fans have high RPM's.
> 
> Keep in mind that most/all manufacturers pad their stats. But reading a fan's stats will give you a better idea of what it's capable of. Then searching on forums like OCN or sites like martinsliquidlab.org will give a much better idea of a particular fan.
> 
> That's my advice anyway. Good Luck!!!


Right now I don't have the funds for all of the things I'd like to get for my build so in the meantime I've been doing a lot of researching and asking a lot questions on different forums. I agree, the best thing to do is to talk with people on the forums with experience. This is my second build I'm currently working on btw. I was completely blind building my first rig, but now I'm more focused and taking my time. I've learned a lot through the forums and tinkering around with my builds. It's becoming a hobby that's growing on me. Thanks for your help!


----------



## kpoeticg

I meant this is my first watercooling build. Not my first build =P. Also my first casemod.
Talking with people is a great way to work out issues. But since i got into watercooling and modding, for every hour i've spent talking to people about it, I've probly spent 99 hours reading and researching all the conversations that have already been had and tests that have already been done.

Seriously, between OCN and Martinsliquidlab, there's a plethora of info thats just sitting there for people that wanna learn

It's the same for me with the funds too. I started learning about watercooling/modding in May/June. I ordered some some stuff in June that I'll never use because i didn't read enough before i ordered it. Then in July i placed my first real order for this build. This month I ordered a bunch of stuff. And then in probly October I'll be ordering the last of what i need for this build.

There's a ton of different opinions and different info out there. So just because you have a convo with some1, even ME, you should still take the advice/info and research it yourself. That way you can make an informed decision, and KNOW you have the best fans/rads/pump/blocks for your particular build. What works for one person might not be optimal for some1 else. Ya know?

Most likely, for every 5 questions you would wanna ask, 4 of them have already been asked, talked through, debated, and answered, on THIS forum =) Running an Overclock.net search is one of my favorite ways to learn things that i'm wondering about.

I hope this isn't coming across as condescending, cuz i'm in NO WAY any kind of guru. Its just a few months ago I was wondering what the best fans and rads to use were too. I'm just sharing what I've learned in that time


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just ordered mine from the Rit website HERE It's being delivered to my house this week. Glad to help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a color chart i found with a bunch of color recipes using rit powder dyes
> 
> Most of the color charts on the Rit site are using their Liquid Dyes. It probably works the same, but I'm real paranoid about throwing off the balance of my fan blades (Obviously, otherwise I'd just paint them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Remember to post pics of your dyed fans once you're done!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Remember to post pics of your dyed fans once you're done!


Of course =D
After the rest of my deliveries get here between tomorrow and Monday (FrozenCPU, Performance-PCs, Lutro0, Rit), and i get myself organized I'll be starting a build log cuz I'm doing a decent mod (I think) on my HAF XB. I'll post some pic's of the fans in here for sure. I should have my build log started by then too so I'll probly post a link to that in here too for any1 that's interested =)


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Cougar isnt that bad i heard
> but its orange -_-


They also come in black


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flip the fans on the top rad to intake to answer your question,if the temps remain the same then no.


i flipped the fans, and the temps dropped by like 20 degrees!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flip the fans on the top rad to intake to answer your question,if the temps remain the same then no.
> 
> 
> 
> i flipped the fans, and the temps dropped by like 20 degrees!
Click to expand...

I always run fans as intakes,20c does seem a bit over the top tho...


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> i flipped the fans, and the temps dropped by like 20 degrees!


20°C, does seem a bit extreme as B Neg just said...
I was looking for 2-5°C but I then realized I was already running them as intakes xD.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Thx !
> +1 will try it as soon as I can get a hold of rit/dylon dye


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just ordered mine from the Rit website HERE It's being delivered to my house this week. Glad to help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a color chart i found with a bunch of color recipes using rit powder dyes
> 
> Most of the color charts on the Rit site are using their Liquid Dyes. It probably works the same, but I'm real paranoid about throwing off the balance of my fan blades (Obviously, otherwise I'd just paint them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


For those that are going to dye blades, there's also the option to spray paint them!

Lutr0 did a guide on it here, and I used it to great effect with _my_ Akasa Vipers! As the other fella said, those blades are VERY YELLOW.








A salient point while still speaking of paining fan blades, etc: Don't forget that the paint adds weight, so if the blades are already heavy (like Akasa's Viper and Apache lines), then you have to be _extremely_ careful with the weight of the coats that you lay down. Maybe when you do the math that paint weight doesn't matter, but mentally, I tried for the lightest coverage I could, just to be sure!

Thanks - T


----------



## kcuestag

Final update with proper pictures during day time:





I have yet to see a temperature increase because of the move from Distilled water only to Mayhems pastel (Concentrate) with DI water.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Final update with proper pictures during day time:
> 
> I have yet to see a temperature increase because of the move from Distilled water only to Mayhems pastel (Concentrate) with DI water.


lol just how often do you update your rig
wish I can update mine, but i've no idea what to update

btw whats with the ram?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> lol just how often do you update your rig
> wish I can update mine, but i've no idea what to update
> 
> btw whats with the ram?


Many people have asked this, I don't feel like upgrading RAM (8GB is enough for my needs) just to get Quad Channel.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Many people have asked this, I don't feel like upgrading RAM (8GB is enough for my needs) just to get Quad Channel.


lol, RAM is one of the easiest/least expensive things to upgrade tho, lol

Also, that mobo really wants more ram







It doesn't like having blank sockets


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I always run fans as intakes,20c does seem a bit over the top tho...


nevermind.. i played some splinter cell blacklist, my cpu hit 70 and gpu's 60... ***.. how can this guy(http://www.overclock.net/t/1396332/build-log-zebra-ii-watercooled-350d-with-gtx780-sli) have 40 degrees and i 60 when we have just the same amount of rads, the same pump and the same blocks..?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> nevermind.. i played some splinter cell blacklist, my cpu hit 70 and gpu's 60... ***.. how can this guy(http://www.overclock.net/t/1396332/build-log-zebra-ii-watercooled-350d-with-gtx780-sli) have 40 degrees and i 60 when we have just the same amount of rads, the same pump and the same blocks..?


he has better Ambient temps, different fluids, different fans, different fan speed, he got lucky with better hardware, he has better contact with blocks than you, the list really goes on....


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> he has better Ambient temps, different fluids, different fans, different fan speed, he got lucky with better hardware, he has better contact with blocks than you, the list really goes on....


okey... is 70 on a 3770k at 4,5 ghz and max like 65-70 on my two 780 bad for a pc with only two 240 rads, one being 60mm?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> okey... is 70 on a 3770k at 4,5 ghz and max like 65-70 on my two 780 bad for a pc with only two 240 rads, one being 60mm?


Hard to say without more information:

What do your ambient temps look like?
What fans do you have? The thickness of your rad 'may' help (probably max a couple degrees C), but you have to have strong enough fans to move air through them or else you are going to get worse temps.
what is the FPI on your rads?
the 2 240 rads should provide adequate cooling for your system, but it depends on a lot of things to determine what is good or bad temps


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hard to say without more information:
> 
> What do your ambient temps look like?
> What fans do you have? The thickness of your rad 'may' help, but you have to have strong enough fans to move air through them or else you are going to get worse temps.
> the 2 240 rads should provide adequate cooling for your system, but it depends on a lot of things to determine what is good or bad temps


ambient is around 25 degrees, my fans are bitfenix spectre pro's and as i said i have a 60mm rad and a normal 30mm rad.. would it help if i changed the fans on the 60mm thick rad to noctua nf f12's?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> ambient is around 25 degrees, my fans are bitfenix spectre pro's and as i said i have a 60mm rad and a normal 30mm rad.. would it help if i changed the fans on the 60mm thick rad to noctua nf f12's?


I think the static pressure on those fans are a little low...do you have push/pull config on your 60mm rad?


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I think the static pressure on those fans are a little low...do you have push/pull config on your 60mm rad?


no, i only have 2 of the bitfenix fans pushing air trough the rad.. could try the nf f12 though? they have 2.6mm in static pressure..


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> no, i only have 2 of the bitfenix fans pushing air trough the rad.. could try the nf f12 though? they have 2.6mm in static pressure..


Try the nf fans and see if it helps....I'd also run push/pull on the 60mm rad if you can


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Try the nf fans and see if it helps....I'd also run push/pull on the 60mm rad if you can


i can't the tubing is in the way.. gonna try it right now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> he has better Ambient temps, different fluids, different fans, different fan speed, he got lucky with better hardware, he has better contact with blocks than you, the list really goes on....
> 
> 
> 
> okey... is 70 on a 3770k at 4,5 ghz and max like 65-70 on my two 780 bad for a pc with only two 240 rads, one being 60mm?
Click to expand...

The CPU temp isn't too bad but those GPU temps are horrible.
Spectre pros are rubbish fans,consider swapping them out.
As for rad space,you can always do with more.....you are on the skinny edge of cooling.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The CPU temp isn't too bad but those GPU temps are horrible.
> Spectre pros are rubbish fans,consider swapping them out.
> As for rad space,you can always do with more.....you are on the skinny edge of cooling.


Yep...I think he is trying some Noctuas out now. Should help a bit


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The CPU temp isn't too bad but those GPU temps are horrible.
> Spectre pros are rubbish fans,consider swapping them out.
> As for rad space,you can always do with more.....you are on the skinny edge of cooling.


the cpu is delidded btw, so the cpu temps should be alot better..
I'm gonna play some splinter cell to check if the temps have improved.. be back with the results in like an hour


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> the cpu is delidded btw, so the cpu temps should be alot better


What CPU block are you using again? I am no expert with delidding, but I believe depending on the block, it may not get a good enough contact with the delidded cpu, which can lead to bad temps. I think EK for example, makes a precise mount kit to fit a delidded cpu better and recommends that you use it with their blocks


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Final update with proper pictures during day time:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have yet to see a temperature increase because of the move from Distilled water only to Mayhems pastel (Concentrate) with DI water.


Nice job....now get some more RAM.









Only giving you a hard time because you said *everybody* else mentions the same thing on the previous page. Had to get mine in too.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What CPU block are you using again? I am no expert with delidding, but I believe depending on the block, it may not get a good enough contact with the delidded cpu, which can lead to bad temps. I think EK for example, makes a precise mount kit to fit a delidded cpu better and recommends that you use it with their blocks


coolermaster seidon 120xl according to his sig rig


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> coolermaster seidon 120xl according to his sig rig


I'm guessing not as he is also cooling 2 GPUs and has 2 240 rads and the seidon 120 is a 120mm closed loop system....

EDIT:

Looking at a link he put up earlier, I think he has a EK Supermacy Acetal. Please confirm this.

If you are using EK, did you use the precise mount kit?


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What CPU block are you using again? I am no expert with delidding, but I believe depending on the block, it may not get a good enough contact with the delidded cpu, which can lead to bad temps. I think EK for example, makes a precise mount kit to fit a delidded cpu better and recommends that you use it with their blocks


i have the ek supremacy, and the cpu temps dropped by 10 degrees and the gup's by 5 degrees.


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What CPU block are you using again? I am no expert with delidding, but I believe depending on the block, it may not get a good enough contact with the delidded cpu, which can lead to bad temps. I think EK for example, makes a precise mount kit to fit a delidded cpu better and recommends that you use it with their blocks


the gpu's are at 57 degrees now after a 30 min or so btw


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> the gpu's are at 57 degrees now after a 30 min or so btw


Still seems a little high on the GPUs.....

Just trying to cover every angle here, did you make sure the blocks are fastened down enough and have appropriate thermal paste?


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Still seems a little high on the GPUs.....
> 
> Just trying to cover every angle here, did you make sure the blocks are fastened down enough and have appropriate thermal paste?


yes, and i'm using mx-4 on the gpu and cpu ( and clu on the die)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nice job....now get some more RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only giving you a hard time because you said *everybody* else mentions the same thing on the previous page. Had to get mine in too.


I am considering 16GB, I just don't have the funds at the moment, spent them on the new fittings, pump/res, coolant, tubing... Plus the RAM is not in my priority list, but definitely on the to do list in the future.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> yes, and i'm using mx-4 on the gpu and cpu ( and clu on the die)


What's your ambient? 57ºC on GPU's still sounds high. I get up to 50-54ºC on my 7970's with fans on low speed when my room hits 34-35ºC, Normally they're ALWAYS below 50ºC though.


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What's your ambient? 57ºC on GPU's still sounds high. I get up to 50-54ºC on my 7970's with fans on low speed when my room hits 34-35ºC, Normally they're ALWAYS below 50ºC though.


the weird thing is, it only hits those kinds of temps when i run splinter cell and furmark (hits 50 with the witcher 2).. if i run unigine heaven, i maxes out at 45-46.. ambient is around 23-25


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> the weird thing is, it only hits those kinds of temps when i run splinter cell and furmark (hits 50 with the witcher 2).. if i run unigine heaven, i maxes out at 45-46.. ambient is around 23-25


I've also heard of another guy with AMD cards saying Splinter Cell gave him crazy high temperatures on his computer, not quite sure if it's game related or poor cooling, but it does sound like poor cooling considering the fans you're using, even those Noctua's aren't the ideal for radiators.

You're also on 2x 240mm rads, way too tight to cool that computer, I had 360 + 240 on 2600k and 2x 680 and already was tight.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I've also heard of another guy with AMD cards saying Splinter Cell gave him crazy high temperatures on his computer, not quite sure if it's game related or poor cooling, but it does sound like poor cooling considering the fans you're using, even those Noctua's aren't the ideal for radiators.
> 
> You're also on 2x 240mm rads, way too tight to cool that computer, I had 360 + 240 on 2600k and 2x 680 and already was tight.


He is on the light end of rads and doesn't have the best fans...either of those points would help (more rads and/or better fans). Also not having really good fans on that 60mm rad (and not push/pull).

Are your fans currently pushing or pulling btw? lower RPM works better in pull, so if you have push, then maybe pull would help?


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> He is on the light end of rads and doesn't have the best fans...either of those points would help (more rands and/or better fans). Also not having really good fans on that 60mm rad (and not push/pull).
> 
> Are your fans currently pushing or pulling btw? lower RPM works better in pull, so if you have push, then maybe pull would help?


the bitfenix fans are pulling and the noctua's are pushing. bitfenix fans spin at 1200 rpm and the noctua's at 1500rpm. could it be air trapped in my loop?
i think i could squeeze in a 360 rad, 280 rad and 120 rad in the 350d.. but i would be quite a while before i can afford to do something like that..


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> the bitfenix fans are pulling and the noctua's are pushing. bitfenix fans spin at 1200 rpm and the noctua's at 1500rpm. could it be air trapped in my loop?
> i think i could squeeze in a 360 rad, 280 rad and 120 rad in the 350d.. but i would be quite a while before i can afford to do something like that..


it is possible there is air trapped if it is a newly filled loop...try tilting the case around a bit to see if you can get any air out of the rads/blocks.


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> it is possible there is air trapped if it is a newly filled loop...try tilting the case around a bit to see if you can get any air out of the rads/blocks.


there is some air coming out, but not much... im gonna disconnect everything except the power cable and give it a good shake.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> the bitfenix fans are pulling and the noctua's are pushing. bitfenix fans spin at 1200 rpm and the noctua's at 1500rpm. could it be air trapped in my loop?
> i think i could squeeze in a 360 rad, 280 rad and 120 rad in the 350d.. but i would be quite a while before i can afford to do something like that..


It could also be an obstruction in the loop or in one of the blocks. I've had a similar issue with cooling performance after putting together a new loop. It turned out that I didn't clean out everything well enough and there was a piece of flux that got stuck in my CPU block. My temperatures were fine until I started really stressing the system.


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It could also be an obstruction in the loop or in one of the blocks. I've had a similar issue with cooling performance after putting together a new loop. It turned out that I didn't clean out everything well enough and there was a piece of flux that got stuck in my CPU block. My temperatures were fine until I started really stressing the system.


i didnt bother to clean the blocks, and i didnt do a really good job flushing the rads either.. so maybe that's the issue..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> i didnt bother to clean the blocks, and i didnt do a really good job flushing the rads either.. so maybe that's the issue..


I hope for your sake that this isn't the issue. It's a real pain having to break everything down to flush it all out.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I hope for your sake that this isn't the issue. It's a real pain having to break everything down to flush it all out.


Agreed. And if you are breaking it down, then double check all your blocks are making good contact as well...might as well right?


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> it is possible there is air trapped if it is a newly filled loop...try tilting the case around a bit to see if you can get any air out of the rads/blocks.


nothing.. turned it in every possible direction and no air bobbles.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Can you make a thread for this?
This is not the place for protracted problems.


----------



## steelkevin

I request, I demand, (yes really







) a picture of that rig, it would really help and might even lead us right to the solution.
Bad TIM or bad TIM spreading has been ruled out since you're using MX-4 and every component is hotter than it should be.
Bad fans I'm ruling out because I've had totally inappropriate fans running on low and yours are running quite fast.


----------



## akiles333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Can you make a thread for this?
> This is not the place for protracted problems.


yeah, will do!


----------



## stickg1

Well I've filled a support ticket with Primochill about my foggy tubing, I did it through their website. Do they have a hardware rep on OCN?


----------



## akiles333

here's the link to my thread if anyone wants to help: http://www.overclock.net/t/1422687/weird-temps


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Why does no one have the EK 7950 backplates :/ PPCs finally got 2 in, but I need 3....so frustrating


I had to buy mine from two different stores. I got the first one from PPC, but they were out of stock when I needed a second backplate.

Dazmode still has some in stock:
www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-fc7950_backplate_-_black/


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> For those that are going to dye blades, there's also the option to spray paint them!
> 
> Lutr0 did a guide on it here, and I used it to great effect with _my_ Akasa Vipers! As the other fella said, those blades are VERY YELLOW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A salient point while still speaking of paining fan blades, etc: Don't forget that the paint adds weight, so if the blades are already heavy (like Akasa's Viper and Apache lines), then you have to be _extremely_ careful with the weight of the coats that you lay down. Maybe when you do the math that paint weight doesn't matter, but mentally, I tried for the lightest coverage I could, just to be sure!
> 
> Thanks - T


Yeah that's the reason for dyeing them. Dyeing them doesn't add weight. I don't wanna end up buying top of the line fans and turning em into hummingbirds =)


----------



## bomberjun

Moved on to 900D from 800D. Radiators I bought are just too thick to fit in....

Now, how are you guys feeling the bottom config? SR-1 with SP120 Quiet Edition.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Moved on to 900D from 800D. Radiators I bought are just too thick to fit in....
> 
> Now, *how are you guys feeling the bottom config?* SR-1 with SP120 Quiet Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Im not.
SR1's dont need push pull at all and there is no room for the rads to exhaust properly,not a good design...you want a minimum of 50-60mm between the rads and some extraction to encourage airflow.

EDIT: You have the rads sandwiched and that is definitely a bad idea,feeding one rad directly with the exhaust from another is really poor.


----------



## Sunreeper

That already looks amazing!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I had to buy mine from two different stores. I got the first one from PPC, but they were out of stock when I needed a second backplate.
> 
> Dazmode still has some in stock:
> www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-fc7950_backplate_-_black/


Thanks for the post.

The shipping is a little much for just 1 backplate. I will probably have another order coming up that I might be able to justify the shipping. Otherwise I guess I will be waiting for PPCs to get a new shipment


----------



## bomberjun

+1 rep for you Bnegative.

I will redo this right away. Thanks again.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Moved on to 900D from 800D. Radiators I bought are just too thick to fit in....
> 
> Now, how are you guys feeling the bottom config? SR-1 with SP120 Quiet Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great (apart from what B Negative already pointed out), I switched from push/pull to push for the same reason. I'm curious to see the PSU fit in there... Pic of that?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Orders placed for new epic Robocop 900D [re]build...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










900D again (albeit slightly modified), acrylic tubing, two loops, 4 pumps, Silver/Black/Gray Robocop color scheme.

EDIT: Sorry, didn't mean to do 2 posts in a row, I didn't realize my post from 3 hours ago was still the most recent post.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Orders placed for new epic Robocop 900D [re]build...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 900D again (albeit slightly modified), acrylic tubing, two loops, 4 pumps, Silver/Black/Gray Robocop color scheme.
> 
> EDIT: Sorry, didn't mean to do 2 posts in a row, I didn't realize my post from 3 hours ago was still the most recent post.


Good lordy, how can you make epic, more epic!?!?!?!?!?!?!

You starting a new log btw?


----------



## kyismaster

Anyone know why my silver coil turned gold lol.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Anyone know why my silver coil turned gold lol.


alchemy.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Anyone know why my silver coil turned gold lol.


Its just tarnishing, normal







. If it bothers you, get some silver polish, rinse very well.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Anyone know why my silver coil turned gold lol.
> 
> 
> 
> alchemy.
Click to expand...

HE'S GOT THE PHILOSOPHER'S STONE MAKE ME IMMORTAL PLEASE


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good lordy, how can you make epic, more epic!?!?!?!?!?!?!
> 
> You starting a new log btw?


But of course!


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> But of course!


Where art thou so I may sub thee?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> But of course!


Your 680 is a total stud. Running 1280MHz/1800MHz now on stock voltage. I'm really happy! Thanks again. If I can throw my wife off of my frivolous spending scent, I might get a 2nd 680 from you, lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Moved on to 900D from 800D. Radiators I bought are just too thick to fit in....
> 
> Now, how are you guys feeling the bottom config? SR-1 with SP120 Quiet Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know you've already been answered, but have you considered flipping them so they intake/exhaust out the bottom? It looks like they would fit. And if you wanna use em both as intakes, you could always get some new chassis feet to raise it higher off the ground like these...



It's kind of an expensive solution if you want it raised more than an inch like me. But you've obviously already invested a decent amount in your rig, might be worth it. That pictures shows a set of Lian Li SD-01B, SD-03, SD-04B. It gives me something like 45mm

Actually, I had to do a TINY bit of dremeling to get them to fit together perfectly. So after screwing them into the case, it's exactly 41mm off the ground. Just an idea...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Your 680 is a total stud. Running 1280MHz/1800MHz now on stock voltage. I'm really happy! Thanks again. If I can throw my wife off of my frivolous spending scent, I might get a 2nd 680 from you, lol.


Haha, I just posted the other two for sale in the marketplace about 10 mins ago









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Where art thou so I may sub thee?










I'll start the log once I receive the first order and another 900D. I can't start one without some epic photos!


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start the log once I receive the first order and another 900D. I can't start one without some epic photos!


ah hell. i gotta hurry up and finish my build before robo james comes and take names


----------



## kyismaster

My rig is going through its phases, I am GLAD GLAD GLAD, I fixed the cable routing.

Semi Glory Days:









Before:









AFTER:



no filter


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Order shipping from PPCS and Newegg in the morning. Got my 4770K and Sabertooth from the local shop today!!! Stoked!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Orders placed for new epic Robocop 900D [re]build...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 900D again (albeit slightly modified), acrylic tubing, two loops, 4 pumps, Silver/Black/Gray Robocop color scheme.
> 
> EDIT: Sorry, didn't mean to do 2 posts in a row, I didn't realize my post from 3 hours ago was still the most recent post.


wow, No. 52 x c47, a really impressive number.


----------



## 3930sabertooth

On my way to something beautiful!


----------



## Squashie

My 800D is almost complete, its already up and running but im gonna put more stuff inside XD



Work log is here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1422828/dccc-4

Is this good enough application?


----------



## 3930sabertooth

When putting my block on it said be careful installing card back into pc or you could easily crack the Die, how hard is it to crack the die from putting the block on and over tightening the screws? I just hand tightened all screws when doing mine i'm waiting oo a Phobya 200mm rad for the frond of my 650D before i can put this titan in with another titan i'm using now, i'm doing a separate GPU loop from the Cpu. so i have a few weeks of this card just sitting on my desk before i can put it back in and finish the loop. hope i did not over tighten anything..


----------



## Im Batman

Please add me to the list. My first water cooled rig.

I'm looking forward to including the graphics card when I upgrade.

Parts.

XSPC Raystorm D5 EX360 Water Cooling Kit


----------



## steelkevin

Could you take a shot without the NZXT 2m strip turned on please ^^ ?


----------



## tiborrr12

@3930sabertooth: It's hard to kill the card with a block that uses built-in standoffs (like the EK-FC Titan above). But it's better to caution people than to be sorry for their mistakes, right?


----------



## 3930sabertooth

Cheers EK Dude







Really glad i got the back plate as well


----------



## kyismaster

__

Phone pictures










Spoiler: Massive spread











Fan Controller behind my dual bay res













Higher Res Links (In Order):
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635429/
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635431/
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635432/
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635434/
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635435/
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635437/
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635439/
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635442/


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> __
> 
> Phone pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Massive spread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan Controller behind my dual bay res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Higher Res Links (In Order):
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635429/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635431/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635432/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635434/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635435/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635437/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635439/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1635442/


Looks good but.....

Why oh why the photo filters?!?!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks good but.....
> 
> Why oh why the photo filters?!?!


Because Instagram?

Also what's w/ the lone tubing by the PSU?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im not adding links to the database,post pics please.


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Could you take a shot without the NZXT 2m strip turned on please ^^ ?


I would like to be able to route more of the cables away in the front bays but the Lamptron FC8 Fan Controller gives you about 5cm before its first Molex.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Because Instagram?
> 
> Also what's w/ the lone tubing by the PSU?


A) Hate Instagram
B) Instagram filters ruin the beauty of a WC PC, imo

The lone tube looks like a drain line perhaps?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I only like instagram if used properly (not food shots and such) lol.
But yeah no need to add photo filters to a rig shot


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> A) Hate Instagram
> B) Instagram filters ruin the beauty of a WC PC, imo
> 
> The lone tube looks like a drain line perhaps?


Just out of curiosity, when doing a drainage line like that is it worth being concerned that algae may grow in the line and get into the rest of the loop because the water would be more or less stagnant at the bottom?


----------



## cyphon

Before I jump into this, I wanna get some confirmation from others that may have done it.....

Everything in my new build is clean acrylic EK blocks, except the RAM block, which is the frosted CSQ. I'd like to polish off the frosted and make it clean (circles are ok, just want it clear







)

Does this sound right and am I missing anything?
- Rub the surface over 2000 grit sandpaper
- Polish it with some sort of polish (car polish maybe? any recommendations?)
- Wash it off

Seems pretty simple, but wanna make sure before I destroy something









Alternatively, I know I could buy one of these, but if I can save the extra cash and it looks good polished, then might be worth it
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=38276


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Before I jump into this, I wanna get some confirmation from others that may have done it.....
> 
> Everything in my new build is clean acrylic EK blocks, except the RAM block, which is the frosted CSQ. I'd like to polish off the frosted and make it clean (circles are ok, just want it clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Does this sound right and am I missing anything?
> - Rub the surface over 2000 grit sandpaper
> - Polish it with some sort of polish (car polish maybe? any recommendations?)
> - Wash it off
> 
> Seems pretty simple, but wanna make sure before I destroy something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternatively, I know I could buy one of these, but if I can save the extra cash and it looks good polished, then might be worth it
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=38276


yes, sounds about right... but for $14 I'd say just go ahead and buy the top


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> yes, sounds about right... but for $14 I'd say just go ahead and buy the top


Sort of what I was thinking....I should have another order coming up anyway, so that may be the best course of action. Although, I think I have the sand paper and polish lying around, so may give that a shot anyway


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sort of what I was thinking....I should have another order coming up anyway, so that may be the best course of action. Although, I think I have the sand paper and polish lying around, so may give that a shot anyway


Try it and have that feeling of satisfaction that you polished a block yourself


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks good but.....
> 
> Why oh why the photo filters?!?!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Because Instagram?
> 
> Also what's w/ the lone tubing by the PSU?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> A) Hate Instagram
> B) Instagram filters ruin the beauty of a WC PC, imo
> 
> The lone tube looks like a drain line perhaps?


Because, If I didn't add the filters my camera turns anything dark/black space pink. I only applied filters to fix the color. "fix"

And its a phone, so, I'd hope you'd expect less









That lone line is the drain line so I don't have to tilt my case upside down by the tub, its a messy thing, drain lines make life 1000% easier.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, when doing a drainage line like that is it worth being concerned that algae may grow in the line and get into the rest of the loop because the water would be more or less stagnant at the bottom?


If the loop sits off yes, if the flow keeps going, no, plus You just change out the water every so often, It helps a lot, drain lines just make it that much easier.

Edit:

Heres an example of the pink haze im talking about.

*Note. thats with filters off.*


----------



## jokrik

Changed my top fans as intake
in fact running AP15 as pull on rad really not a good idea, its noisy especially on high density rad

the hump noise is more acceptable now even on full speed and the temp is like 2-3c lower


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Heres an example of the pink haze im talking about.
> 
> *Note. thats with filters off.*


Even by camera phone standards this is bad.........what phone do you have? Is there some setting you turned on by accident?


----------



## stickg1

Try cleaning the lens with a q-tip dabbed in isoprophyl alcohol


----------



## xenomorph113

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Heres an example of the pink haze im talking about.

*Note. thats with filters off.*[/quote]



if i had to take a guess, you're using an iphone 5, because of the sapphire lens (which is very strong/scratch resistant) light from unusual angles cause a purple-ish glare. its likely more showing more because you're taking photos inside so its in more of a low light mode.

http://forums.imore.com/iphone-5/241349-iphone-5-camera-purple-haze.html

i would try moving the lights in the room around to limit the glare/ use a shade to soften the light

just my $0.02


----------



## snef

Still work in progress

my new peoject Snef's Red Poseidon
http://www.overclock.net/t/1422107/snefs-red-poseidon/10#post_20710737

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0172_zpsdb8cb13f.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0170_zpsb4ec3cd3.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0152_zpsd43fe243.jpg.html


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Still work in progress
> 
> my new peoject Snef's Red Poseidon
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0152_zpsd43fe243.jpg.html


That's gorgeous! What tubing are you using if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Before I jump into this, I wanna get some confirmation from others that may have done it.....
> 
> Everything in my new build is clean acrylic EK blocks, except the RAM block, which is the frosted CSQ. I'd like to polish off the frosted and make it clean (circles are ok, just want it clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Does this sound right and am I missing anything?
> - Rub the surface over 2000 grit sandpaper
> - Polish it with some sort of polish (car polish maybe? any recommendations?)
> - Wash it off
> 
> Seems pretty simple, but wanna make sure before I destroy something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternatively, I know I could buy one of these, but if I can save the extra cash and it looks good polished, then might be worth it
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=38276


I did mine with ScratchX and my Dremel with a buffing pad....




It took like 20 minutes and my arms weren't tired. Just keep the dremel moving or you'll "dig a hole"


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's gorgeous! What tubing are you using if you don't mind me asking?


Thanks

i used Primochill Advanced except for one (only for leak testing)
the one from the bottom to ram block is a XSPC, little bit less crystal clear, if you look at the picture you see a small difference


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Before I jump into this, I wanna get some confirmation from others that may have done it.....
> 
> Everything in my new build is clean acrylic EK blocks, except the RAM block, which is the frosted CSQ. I'd like to polish off the frosted and make it clean (circles are ok, just want it clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Does this sound right and am I missing anything?
> - Rub the surface over 2000 grit sandpaper
> - Polish it with some sort of polish (car polish maybe? any recommendations?)
> - Wash it off
> 
> Seems pretty simple, but wanna make sure before I destroy something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternatively, I know I could buy one of these, but if I can save the extra cash and it looks good polished, then might be worth it
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=38276


very easy to do

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek5_zpsc1204cb2.jpg.html
before

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek11_zps2e3766dd.jpg.html
after

very easy to do
wet sanding with p2000
and use car counpond Meguiar's Ultimate counpond
NOTE: the ram block nbeed to be polished on all side (6)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Still work in progress
> 
> my new peoject Snef's Red Poseidon
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1422107/snefs-red-poseidon/10#post_20710737
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0172_zpsdb8cb13f.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0170_zpsb4ec3cd3.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0152_zpsd43fe243.jpg.html


Looks awesome as always







! I love your builds








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I did mine with ScratchX and my Dremel with a buffing pad....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took like 20 minutes and my arms weren't tired. Just keep the dremel moving or you'll "dig a hole"


Awesome, I was wondering about the dremel buff pads. I know for sure I have some of those around








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> very easy to do
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek5_zpsc1204cb2.jpg.html
> before
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-ek11_zps2e3766dd.jpg.html
> 
> 
> after
> 
> very easy to do
> wet sanding with p2000
> and use car counpond Meguiar's Ultimate counpond
> NOTE: the ram block nbeed to be polished on all side (6)


Looks nice! I may just polish it...Can always grab the new top if I don't like.

Thanks guys!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Even by camera phone standards this is bad.........what phone do you have? Is there some setting you turned on by accident?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Try cleaning the lens with a q-tip dabbed in isoprophyl alcohol


HTC one, its a software issue.




lol, don't ask why my seagate still has the original box plastic wrap xD


----------



## defiler2k

Anyone know where can you get spare parts for EK VGA blocks? I went to add an additional 770 to my system and the bridge on the new block is cross threaded. Granted Im using their FC terminal bridges so I wont be using the original that came with the block however I would like to have the original working in case I want to part it out or go a different route. I sent a note to EK through their site a couple of weeks back but they have not responded.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> A) Hate Instagram
> B) Instagram filters ruin the beauty of a WC PC, imo
> 
> The lone tube looks like a drain line perhaps?


Or maybe it's a CYPHON!!









_(sorry)_


----------



## mbondPDX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Anyone know where can you get spare parts for EK VGA blocks? I went to add an additional 770 to my system and the bridge on the new block is cross threaded. Granted Im using their FC terminal bridges so I wont be using the original that came with the block however I would like to have the original working in case I want to part it out or go a different route. I sent a note to EK through their site a couple of weeks back but they have not responded.


I would send a PM to ek_tiborrr or derickwm. They might be able to help.


----------



## cyphon

Just got done polishing the block. I think it turned our pretty good. Thanks again snef and TampaChaz


----------



## Fanboy88

That polished top looks pretty good!


----------



## 3dMuk

Damn, that looks so much better. I still can't understand why EK went with the frosted finish


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just got done polishing the block. I think it turned our pretty good. Thanks again snef and TampaChaz


Did you polish them on a plane or boat?


----------



## Pimphare

Hello everyone, does anybody know how well the XSPC AX line of radiators perform? I'm a bit confused on which model I should get. They have RS, EX, RX, and AX versions. I understand they have different fin densities, but I'd like to know about their performance. I'll probably be using Corsair SP120 fans with them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hello everyone, does anybody know how well the XSPC AX line of radiators perform? I'm a bit confused on which model I should get. They have RS, EX, RX, and AX versions. I understand they have different fin densities, but I'd like to know about their performance. I'll probably be using Corsair SP120 fans with them.


If someone doesnt answer straight away,do not repost your question immediately.

AX are probably your best bet.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Did you polish them on a plane or boat?


Living room lol

I'm in a high rise on the lake (Lake Michigan) lol

Here is a pic installed on the board


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If someone doesnt answer straight away,do not repost your question immediately.
> 
> AX are probably your best bet.


Yes sir! I wasn't trying to be pushy or anything. The weather here is bad and my internet is acting up. Thanks for your reply.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yes sir! I wasn't trying to be pushy or anything. The weather here is bad and my internet is acting up. Thanks for your reply.


Pesky Satellite dishes!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just got done polishing the block. I think it turned our pretty good. Thanks again snef and TampaChaz


to hell with the block looking great. that view is awesome. lucky butthead you are.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Pesky Satellite dishes!


What can you do..lol


----------



## cyphon

Here is a side by side for those of you interested in doing it yourselves


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Here is a side by side for those of you interested in doing it yourselves


That cleaned up quite good! It'll look awesome with some color running through it now!


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Living room lol
> 
> I'm in a high rise on the lake (Lake Michigan) lol
> 
> Here is a pic installed on the board


Smexy for sure. great job. one day I will grow a pair and do that to mine. i just dread doing the GPU blocks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That cleaned up quite good! It'll look awesome with some color running through it now!


That's the plan....it will be Mayhems Pastel (probably Orange)


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That's the plan....it will be Mayhems Pastel (probably Orange)


I was actually thinking about using Mayhems Pastel a while back. They look amazing. I'm just curious about contaminants and blockage. Anyhow that will look fantastic!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I was actually thinking about using Mayhems Pastel a while back. They look amazing. I'm just curious about contaminants and blockage. Anyhow that will look fantastic!


Pastel has biocide and anti-corrosion in it already. It is rated to keep in your system for like 2-3 years without draining.

Furthermore, it is exceptional at clearing microbubbles from your system. My build (Ice Pick) has pastel in there and it bled completely in like an hour.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Pastel has biocide and anti-corrosion in it already. It is rated to keep in your system for like 2-3 years without draining.
> 
> Furthermore, it is exceptional at clearing microbubbles from your system. My build (Ice Pick) has pastel in there and it bled completely in like an hour.


That's good to know. I haven't got wet yet. lol I love the look of the pastel coolants. I may just get some. Thanks for the info.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that looks amazing. Hell of a polishing job


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hello everyone, does anybody know how well the XSPC AX line of radiators perform? I'm a bit confused on which model I should get. They have RS, EX, RX, and AX versions. I understand they have different fin densities, but I'd like to know about their performance. I'll probably be using Corsair SP120 fans with them.


I was in the same boat as you back when I was making up my shopping list. After a bit of searching I found out a chart showing that the AX performed equally or better than the RX at all fan RPM ranges so I went with the AX.

It's not that much of a difference though, besides the RS all of them perform withing a few degrees of each other.


----------



## kpoeticg

AX is their crossflow rad right? I always thought the RX was the best performing they had. Good to know...


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I was in the same boat as you back when I was making up my shopping list. After a bit of searching I found out a chart showing that the AX performed equally or better than the RX at all fan RPM ranges so I went with the AX.
> 
> It's not that much of a difference though, besides the RS all of them perform withing a few degrees of each other.


Thanks man. The AX's sure look awesome. They look good enough to mount on the outside. I like getting new computer parts but I hate shopping for them. My wife complains that I think too hard. lol


----------



## wermad

@BNeg, so the AX is comparable to the RX series? I was thinking of getting some UT60s, or RXs, or SR1s next year. But the AXs perform the same, I would take them due to space issues in my case







.

Anyone have some data on the AX vs the other rads????


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah that looks amazing. Hell of a polishing job


It really isn't hard to do either. That block could be done in 5 minutes. The only ones that really take a while are the GPU blocks.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @BNeg, so the AX is comparable to the RX series? I was thinking of getting some UT60s, or RXs, or SR1s *next year*. But the AXs perform the same, I would take them due to space issues in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Anyone have some data on the AX vs the other rads????


haswell e?


----------



## Pimphare

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







What do you guys think of this setup? I'm thinking about going with XSPC AX rads. I might just put a 240mm rad in the front and a 240mm rad up top and a fan only at the rear to exhaust the ambient air better. I'm not sure what tubing I'll be using yet or how I plan to route it. The cpu and gpu's will have full water blocks.

I forgot to add that I'll be using Corsair SP120 fans most likely.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of this setup? I'm thinking about going with XSPC AX rads. I might just put a 240mm rad in the front and a 240mm rad up top and a fan only at the rear to exhaust the ambient air better. I'm not sure what tubing I'll be using yet or how I plan to route it. The cpu and gpu's will have full water blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of this setup? I'm thinking about going with XSPC AX rads. I might just put a 240mm rad in the front and a 240mm rad up top and a fan only at the rear to exhaust the ambient air better. I'm not sure what tubing I'll be using yet or how I plan to route it. The cpu and gpu's will have full water blocks.


do u already own this case? if so, do that, and include a 120 rad in the rear.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> haswell e?


Nah, just switching my fans and rads. I already had a ton of R4s but a few of them are starting to fail me. I got the GTX rads but i want something a bit better that can work w/ lower rpm fans.

I'm probably gonna go IB and delid just for the pcie 3.0 jump.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nah, just switching my fans and rads. I already had a ton of R4s but a few of them are starting to fail me. I got the GTX rads but i want something a bit better that can work w/ lower rpm fans.
> 
> I'm probably gonna go IB and delid just for the pcie 3.0 jump.


the xspc ex series are great with low rpm fans, only ones i use since i got all quiet edition fans, titans under load never go over 40c with them on a hot day in florida, 35c for a more average day at 100% load.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> do u already own this case? if so, do that, and include a 120 rad in the rear.


Yes sir. I have the case up and running with one gpu and no water cooling so far. So do you mean two 240mm rads and one 120mm rad?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the xspc ex series are great with low rpm fans, only ones i use since i got all quiet edition fans, titans under load never go over 40c with them on a hot day in florida, 35c for a more average day at 100% load.


Man that's great! And the EX's are a good bit cheaper.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Man that's great! And the EX's are a good bit cheaper.


rig is completely silent also, only way to know its on is the HDD led lol


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> rig is completely silent also, only way to know its on is the HDD led lol


Silence is golden! How many rads, pumps and blocks do you have in your loop? Or do you have multiple loops?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Silence is golden! How many rads, pumps and blocks do you have in your loop? Or do you have multiple loops?


a 480 ex rad, a 360 ex rad. 4 evga titan hydro copper blocks, 4770k xspc block, and soon to be ek maximus vi extreme block, one xspc d5 vario pump. Plan on splitting it into dual loops soon though when i switch to hard acrylic tubing. also might add another 240 ex rad in there if i can redo my drain port area, since its directly in the way


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> a 480 ex rad, a 360 ex rad. 4 evga titan hydro copper blocks, 4770k xspc block, and soon to be ek maximus vi extreme block, one xspc d5 vario pump. Plan on splitting it into dual loops soon though when i switch to hard acrylic tubing. also might add another 240 ex rad in there if i can redo my drain port area, since its directly in the way


You have one beast of a set up dude.







Primochill's acrylic tubing looks quite nice. I'm still on the fence on whether to go acrylic or "traditional" tubing. I may start out with regular tubing since it will be my first water cooling experience. I'll always have something better to look forward to.


----------



## Dhalgren65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Still work in progress
> 
> my new peoject Snef's Red Poseidon
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1422107/snefs-red-poseidon/10#post_20710737
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0172_zpsdb8cb13f.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0170_zpsb4ec3cd3.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/IMG_0152_zpsd43fe243.jpg.html


Just caught this in my evening review.
Vewwy vewwy niiiice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the xspc ex series are great with low rpm fans, only ones i use since i got all quiet edition fans, titans under load never go over 40c with them on a hot day in florida, 35c for a more average day at 100% load.


Its around 30c in socal right now and with the fans in their lowest voltage, I'm hitting ~45c on the cards. W/ a lower ambient, I'm right at 40c.. I got the GTX since they were available at that time. Though, i would rather get something better for lower rpm fans. I'm tight on space so the AX would be nice


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Man that's great! And the EX's are a good bit cheaper.


I have both an EX and an AX and the difference in performance or non at all (0.1C) on my coolant temp meters and no difference on my inner temps. The main difference on the AX is the shroud which is removable and its much better looking. Their RX have rave reviews, they have higher flow than the AX series and are thicker which allows better thermal performance, however there is a space premium that comes along with it, also, the RX performs better on lower fan speeds where the higher FPI of the AX which allow better cooling at higher fan speeds due to airflow restriction, the EX series has about 6 more FPI than the AX.

I think the key is your particular setup, do you value a quiet case vs wanting to get the absolute best thermal performance. Again the differences are minimal depending fan speed. PureOC has a decent review that covers the RX,AX and EX 360's and with the exception of low speed fans the AX comes out on top.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I have both an EX and an AX and the difference in performance or non at all (0.1C) on my coolant temp meters and no difference on my inner temps. The main difference on the AX is the shroud which is removable and its much better looking. Their RX have rave reviews, they have higher flow than the AX series and are thicker which allows better thermal performance, however there is a space premium that comes along with it, also, the RX performs better on lower fan speeds where the higher FPI of the AX which allow better cooling at higher fan speeds due to airflow restriction, the EX series has about 6 more FPI than the AX.
> 
> I think the key is your particular setup, do you value a quiet case vs wanting to get the absolute best thermal performance. Again the differences are minimal depending fan speed. PureOC has a decent review that covers the RX,AX and EX 360's and with the exception of low speed fans the AX comes out on top.


Thanks for the info. Looking at the review, from low rpm, there's a slight advantage to the RX but once they go up, they trade blows. Price is very close but the space advantage is definitely sided to the AX. Would like to see how the AX stacks up against the XT45 from Alphacool.



http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-ax360-radiator/4/


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Here is a side by side for those of you interested in doing it yourselves


A. How?

and B. Jeez, Now I wanna get me some EK blocks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> A. How?
> 
> and B. Jeez, Now I wanna get me some EK blocks.


Use 1500-2000 grit wet sandpaper to take off the frost. Then use a car polish compound to finish the surface. You can also use a dremel tool buff pad to work it as well.


----------



## skyhigh2004

My new 900D rig is finally starting to take shape. Now that I have all the rads and fans painted and mounted it's time for some hardware and of course more WC components.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Use 1500-2000 grit wet sandpaper to take off the frost. Then use a car polish compound to finish the surface. You can also use a dremel tool buff pad to work it as well.


Might need to buy a new dremel for this, mine only does 10,000 /12,000 rpm









I'll take a shot at this some time.

edit:

or not:


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Might need to buy a new dremel for this, mine only does 10,000 /12,000 rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take a shot at this some time.
> 
> edit:
> 
> or not:


Unfortunately the gigabyte amd cards don't use reference design so the blocks don't fit right









Also, the EK amd blocks I think mostly all come in clean acrylic anyway so polishing wouldn't be necessary


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I have both an EX and an AX and the difference in performance or non at all (0.1C) on my coolant temp meters and no difference on my inner temps. The main difference on the AX is the shroud which is removable and its much better looking. Their RX have rave reviews, they have higher flow than the AX series and are thicker which allows better thermal performance, however there is a space premium that comes along with it, also, the RX performs better on lower fan speeds where the higher FPI of the AX which allow better cooling at higher fan speeds due to airflow restriction, the EX series has about 6 more FPI than the AX.
> 
> I think the key is your particular setup, do you value a quiet case vs wanting to get the absolute best thermal performance. Again the differences are minimal depending fan speed. PureOC has a decent review that covers the RX,AX and EX 360's and with the exception of low speed fans the AX comes out on top.


It's a war inside my head. I like the look of the AX, but don't like the higher price. I like the price of the EX, but I'll have to be crafty to get the best performance out of them. I like the thickness of the RX but space can be an issue. Maybe I'll just mix and match. I can put an EX240 up top, an EX120 at the rear, and a RX240 at the front. I have the Corsair Obsidian 650D btw.

Here is a rough draft that I came up with earlier today.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kpoeticg

Don't forget about the Alphacool NexXxos rads too =D


----------



## chefproject

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Don't forget about the Alphacool NexXxos rads too =D


^ This

Very good rads, love mine.


It's a 280 rad 60mm with 2 Enermax Cluster on push, gives me very nice temps



Greetings from Belgium Chefproject


----------



## wermad

Alphacool XT45 perform pretty well w/ low to medium. But they're a bit thicker. AX prices are putting me tbh







.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/15/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-360-radiator/4/


----------



## kpoeticg

I have a 280 UT60, 120 UT60, & 240 XT45. If you're tight on space, the ST30's always a good option too. Performs well in testing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Alphacool XT45 perform pretty well w/ low to medium. But they're a bit thicker. AX prices are putting me tbh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It's funny watching you say that about the thickness of the XT45 after reading your build logs


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @BNeg, so the AX is comparable to the RX series? I was thinking of getting some UT60s, or RXs, or SR1s next year. But the AXs perform the same, I would take them due to space issues in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Anyone have some data on the AX vs the other rads????


You might interested with this roundup review.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283133-Bundymania-User-Review-Triple-Radiator-(360)-Roundup-with-22-Rads-!

According to the test result, AX radiator only start to perform well at 1200RPM.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey got a quick question, with an SM5 going AX360 & AX240 rads for a 2500K and GTX 670, maybe a GTC 780 would you do a single set of AP-15s on 7v or push/pull on 5v?, want it quiet but still good performance







, build logs in sig if you wanna check the parts

Thanks


----------



## Squashie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Might need to buy a new dremel for this, mine only does 10,000 /12,000 rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take a shot at this some time.
> 
> edit:
> 
> or not:


http://www.liquidextasy.de/component/content/article/7-news/178-gv-r787oc-2gd-gv-r795wf3-3gd-fx795a

Google translate:
Against early Setpember, we expect again some new additions. So we already have samples for the gigabyte 7870 2 GB GDDR5 (GV-R787OC-2GD), gigabyte 7950 3072MB GDDR5 (GV-R795WF3-3GD) and the XFX double D FX 795A TDFC exist. More cards are located in the inlet. Many greetings your liquid Extasy team


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hey got a quick question, with an SM5 going AX360 & AX240 rads for a 2500K and GTX 670, maybe a GTC 780 would you do a single set of AP-15s on 7v or push/pull on 5v?, want it quiet but still good performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , build logs in sig if you wanna check the parts
> 
> Thanks


AP-14 7v pull!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hey got a quick question, with an SM5 going AX360 & AX240 rads for a 2500K and GTX 670, maybe a GTC 780 would you do a single set of AP-15s on 7v or push/pull on 5v?, want it quiet but still good performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , build logs in sig if you wanna check the parts
> 
> Thanks


Well one of the things that make AP-15's so absolutely perfect is how quiet they are while outperforming pretty much every other fan RPM for RPM. I'd just get a fan controller and not complicate things for myself. Push/Pull is always best with very few exceptions. If you don't have an extra 5.25 bay for a fan controller, you can get a PCI slot controller, or something like a Zalman FanMate that you can Velcro wherever you want. If money's an issue, PPC's has a Sunbeam 4-Channel Rheobus on sale for $8.99. Definitely get push/pull if you can fit it, and just get a controller if full speed is too loud.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> AP-14 7v pull!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well one of the things that make AP-15's so absolutely perfect is how quiet they are while outperforming pretty much every other fan RPM for RPM. I'd just get a fan controller and not complicate things for myself. Push/Pull is always best with very few exceptions. If you don't have an extra 5.25 bay for a fan controller, you can get a PCI slot controller, or something like a Zalman FanMate that you can Velcro wherever you want. If money's an issue, PPC's has a Sunbeam 4-Channel Rheobus on sale for $8.99. Definitely get push/pull if you can fit it, and just get a controller if full speed is too loud.


Well I was thinking depending on how many fans I go it would be the Phobya 4Pin Molex to 6x 3Pin Fan Splitter PCB for 7v single lot of fans or NZXT Grid Fan Hub for 5v push/pull, I dont want to really have anything in the 5.25 bay going for as clean a look as I can







, the noise isnt really an issue but I know the more fans I put in the louder they get.

Is the 7v mod still dangerous to do seeing you take the ground out (only way I know of doing it) or is it ok now a days? only asking seeing the last time I watched a friend do it he cooked his PSU


----------



## kpoeticg

There's a few ways to undervolt. A great way is to add a resistor if you can solder. Also, Phobya makes a 4-Pin Molex -> 3 x 3pin cables (One's 12v, One's 7v, One's 5v). Also, if you've seen that Phobya Molex -> 6 x 3pin board, you must've seen the Bitspower, Akust, FrozenCpu, etc... boards that have ports with different voltages like the Bitspower X-Station 2. I still don't think it makes any type of sense to spend money on GT AP-15's and then permanently undervolting them. Makes much more sense to get a controller. Even getting an NZXT Grid and connecting it to one of THESE would be a great solution. It's pretty much just a single knob that you can hide or mount it so just the knobs accessible through your case. Your call. It's just AP-15's are 1850 RPM. They make slower models too. Good luck =)

I've never heard of it being okay to remove the ground from a molex connector. Maybe I'm missing something, but that doesn't sound like a "Mod" as much as an "I don't want my PSU anymore" =P

THIS is the same thing i linked to before except it has a 4-Pin Molex on both ends so you could just stick it in line between your PSU and your Phobya 4-Pin Molex -> 6 x 3pin terminal


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's a few ways to undervolt. A great way is to add a resistor if you can solder. Also, Phobya makes a 4-Pin Molex -> 3 x 3pin cables (One's 12v, One's 7v, One's 5v). Also, if you've seen that Phobya Molex -> 6 x 3pin board, you must've seen the Bitspower, Akust, FrozenCpu, etc... boards that have ports with different voltages like the Bitspower X-Station 2. I still don't think it makes any type of sense to spend money on GT AP-15's and then permanently undervolting them. Makes much more sense to get a controller. Even getting an NZXT Grid and connecting it to one of THESE would be a great solution. It's pretty much just a single knob that you can hide or mount it so just the knobs accessible through your case. Your call. It's just AP-15's are 1850 RPM. They make slower models too. Good luck =)
> 
> I've never heard of it being okay to remove the ground from a molex connector. Maybe I'm missing something, but that doesn't sound like a "Mod" as much as an "I don't want my PSU anymore" =P
> 
> THIS is the same thing i linked to before except it has a 4-Pin Molex on both ends so you could just stick it in line between your PSU and your Phobya 4-Pin Molex -> 6 x 3pin terminal


I can solder... not great but it works most of the time. I did see the Phobya Molex to 3 pins but i didnt wanna go that way, Yeah I seen the other powerboard things, they all look a bit big or have leds in the thats whats kinda put my off of those. That 12v speed controller is what I've been looking for, for ages I asked on the Aussie Overclock forum but they said it was stupid or couldnt be done







thats pretty much the exact thing I want, its easier then a fan controller but I still have full control over the fans, but Id want them all hooked up at one :O lol so it would ahve to handle the power









Last time I messed with a ground wire things went well um... bad
















Ah now thats more like it, I was gonna hunt and see if I could build one but that seems a much easier way, if I can get it or something like it in Aus


----------



## Trolle BE

added 2 nanoxia fans(might add some to my rad to instead of the gt15's) and added some more mayhems uv laser green
im quite happy with my loop so far


sorry for the crappy pic again


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> added 2 nanoxia fans(might add some to my rad to instead of the gt15's) and added some more mayhems uv laser green
> im quite happy with my loop so far
> 
> 
> sorry for the crappy pic again


It will be interesting to see how they perform


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Don't forget about the Alphacool NexXxos rads too =D


Yes, I was looking at this one for the top, but I think I might just stay with the 120mm fan profile throughout. Idk....lol
















http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_458&products_id=34835


----------



## kpoeticg

The Alphacool NexXxos rads come in 30mm thick (ST30), 45mm thick (XT45), 60mm thick (UT60, and 86mm thick (Monsta). They also come in 120, 240, 360, 480, 140, 280, 420, & 560. So you can really get any size you want =)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I can solder... not great but it works most of the time. I did see the Phobya Molex to 3 pins but i didnt wanna go that way, Yeah I seen the other powerboard things, they all look a bit big or have leds in the thats whats kinda put my off of those. That 12v speed controller is what I've been looking for, for ages I asked on the Aussie Overclock forum but they said it was stupid or couldnt be done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats pretty much the exact thing I want, its easier then a fan controller but I still have full control over the fans, but Id want them all hooked up at one :O lol so it would ahve to handle the power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last time I messed with a ground wire things went well um... bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah now thats more like it, I was gonna hunt and see if I could build one but that seems a much easier way, if I can get it or something like it in Aus


You should never not get something because it has LED's. Especially if you know how to solder even a little bit. Most LED's can be removed pretty easily. And worst case scenario, you would just have to heat up the solder joint and pull em out with tweezers.

Also, FrozenCPU ships international, if worse came to worse. But there's a bunch of things like that. Lamptron makes a manual controller, Zalman makes a few, Phobya makes one. Silenx makes THIS which even has the choice of AC or DC power if you ever had a need to run it off a wall socket. But there's tons of different kinds of fan controllers to suit different needs. If you can't find the molex to molex one that i linked to earlier near you, I'm sure you could find a PCI slot controller with a knob. Just remove the PCI bracket and place it where you want. Or keep the bracket and just mount it elsewhere. I don't think i've ever seen one that actually takes up a PCI slot on a motherboard. It's just a plate with a knob.
Anyway i gotta run to home depot before i go to sleep so i can get the rest of the stuff for the filtration system i'm putting together to flush all my new rads and blocks.
Good Luck!!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nah, just switching my fans and rads. I already had a ton of R4s but a few of them are starting to fail me. I got the GTX rads but i want something a bit better that can work w/ lower rpm fans.
> 
> I'm probably gonna go IB and delid just for the pcie 3.0 jump.


I'd go with the SR1s. Especially if you like the quality of the GTXs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Use 1500-2000 grit wet sandpaper to take off the frost. Then use a car polish compound to finish the surface. You can also use a dremel tool buff pad to work it as well.


Actually you should be using a plastic polish like Megiar's PlastX and definitely do not use a dremel. The PlastX makes things about 2-3x quicker. The dremel has a good chance of melting and scuffing the acrylic.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You should never not get something because it has LED's. Especially if you know how to solder even a little bit. Most LED's can be removed pretty easily. And worst case scenario, you would just have to heat up the solder joint and pull em out with tweezers.
> 
> Also, FrozenCPU ships international, if worse came to worse. But there's a bunch of things like that. Lamptron makes a manual controller, Zalman makes a few, Phobya makes one. Silenx makes THIS which even has the choice of AC or DC power if you ever had a need to run it off a wall socket. But there's tons of different kinds of fan controllers to suit different needs. If you can't find the molex to molex one that i linked to earlier near you, I'm sure you could find a PCI slot controller with a knob. Just remove the PCI bracket and place it where you want. Or keep the bracket and just mount it elsewhere. I don't think i've ever seen one that actually takes up a PCI slot on a motherboard. It's just a plate with a knob.
> Anyway i gotta run to home depot before i go to sleep so i can get the rest of the stuff for the filtration system i'm putting together to flush all my new rads and blocks.
> Good Luck!!!


Lol thats true

Yeah I know they do but shipping to Aus... I'd need to sell a kidney







, I have seen the Zalman one, I might try and get the Zalman one I've seen or one of the PCI slot ones

Thanks for the help now I know what direction to go in


----------



## bundymania

Koolance QD3 Series


----------



## khemist

Got a backplate for my Titan at last, going to install in the next few days.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> I did mine with ScratchX and my Dremel with a buffing pad....
> 
> 
> 
> It took like 20 minutes and my arms weren't tired. Just keep the dremel moving or you'll "dig a hole"


I bet that would look insanely nicer if the internal chambers were also polished, or had some sort of flow indicator incorporated into that link.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking









are't you worried about the aluminium wb ?


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Great looking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are't you worried about the aluminium wb ?


which wb aluminum


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> which wb aluminum


the waterblock of the asus maximus vi formula is made of aluminum. be very careful when using, the protective coating on it is easily scratched, even by screwing in a fitting :x


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> which wb aluminum


the waterblock of the asus maximus vi formula is made of aluminum. be very careful when using, the protective coating on it is easily scratched, even by screwing in a fitting :x


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


great


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I bet that would look insanely nicer if the inside tubes were also polished


Agreed. Although I used single links so it was a bit easier.


----------



## SuperB4d

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Agreed. Although I used single links so it was a bit easier.






that looks really nice!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Agreed. Although I used single links so it was a bit easier.


polished mine as well but still using EK red blood coolant
man, I really wanna change to mayhem pastel but shipping cost is hell


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> polished mine as well but still using EK red blood coolant
> man, I really wanna change to mayhem pastel but shipping cost is hell


IMHO I think the non-pastel coolants look better in the polished blocks anyways.


----------



## Daredevil 720

So if I were to undervolt a Gentle Typhoon AP-15 to 9V using a resistor:

One of them draws 0.083A at 12V (confirmed), so its resistance should be ~145Ω. Using a DMM I measured 0.033A at 5V (molex cables swapped), which shows a resistance of ~150Ω. So I'll assume the fan's resistance is between 145-150Ω.

Using a simple voltage divider, I found out that to get 9V to the AP-15 through the 12V rail I would have to put a ~50Ω resistor in series to the fan.

Through measuring with the DMM I also found out that the current draw of the fan also goes down linearly with the voltage, so at 9V the current draw should be around 0.062A, giving us ~0.56W power consumption on the fan.

The power consumption of the resistor would be different though. If I'm correct it should be 3V (the voltage drop) * 0.062A ~= 0.19W. So the ideal resistor should be a 50Ω resistor rated at 1/4W, right?
__________________

If I were to connect multiple AP-15s to a single molex connector, I would actually be connecting them in parallel, right? In this case should I use a 50Ω 1/4W resistor in series with each fan, or could I use a single resistor on the 12V node? If the latter is possible/advisable how would I go about calculating what resistor is needed?

Thanks for reading.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMHO I think the non-pastel coolants look better in the polished blocks anyways.


you think so?
I know UV works really well with the polished one
guess Ill see how it goes ...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Agreed. Although I used single links so it was a bit easier.


"I can see clearly now, the rain is gone"... +1 Rep.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> So if I were to undervolt a Gentle Typhoon AP-15 to 9V using a resistor:
> 
> One of them draws 0.083A at 12V (confirmed), so its resistance should be ~145Ω. Using a DMM I measured 0.033A at 5V (molex cables swapped), which shows a resistance of ~150Ω. So I'll assume the fan's resistance is between 145-150Ω.
> 
> Using a simple voltage divider, I found out that to get 9V to the AP-15 through the 12V rail I would have to put a ~50Ω resistor in series to the fan.
> 
> Through measuring with the DMM I also found out that the current draw of the fan also goes down linearly with the voltage, so at 9V the current draw should be around 0.062A, giving us ~0.56W power consumption on the fan.
> 
> The power consumption of the resistor would be different though. If I'm correct it should be 3V (the voltage drop) * 0.062A ~= 0.19W. So the ideal resistor should be a 50Ω resistor rated at 1/4W, right?
> __________________
> 
> If I were to connect multiple AP-15s to a single molex connector, I would actually be connecting them in parallel, right? In this case should I use a 50Ω 1/4W resistor in series with each fan, or could I use a single resistor on the 12V node? If the latter is possible/advisable how would I go about calculating what resistor is needed?
> 
> Thanks for reading.


There is a way better approach to this, use a voltage divider circuit:



You would put this between your power supply and whatever you want powered at 9V, effectively creating a 9V rail.

Example:

Say use 1k and 3k resistors

Vout = Vs * R2/(R1+R2) = 12v * 3k/(1k+3k) = 12 * 3/4 = 9v

Again, with this approach, adding more fans to that 9V rail will not effect the voltage divider.

Whats more is, you can use add a potentiometer to give you a variable controller. All yo do here is use a constant for R2 and a pot for R1 to vary the output voltage

Example

Vs = 12v
R1 [10k Potentiometer] = 0->10k
R2 = 10k

Vmax (R1 = 0) = 12 * 10k/(10k + 0) = 12 * 1 = 12v
Vmin (R1 = 10k) = 12 * 10k/(10k + 10k) = 12 * 1/2 = 6v

Now you can turn the potentiometer and have a linear ramp from 6v-12v. Oh look, we just built a simple fan speed controller









EDIT:

If you'd like an example, I have all the parts lying around and could put together an example video


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Unfortunately the gigabyte amd cards don't use reference design so the blocks don't fit right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the EK amd blocks I think mostly all come in clean acrylic anyway so polishing wouldn't be necessary


I believe gigabyte 7950/7970 windforces are compatible though


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I believe gigabyte 7950/7970 windforces are compatible though


The first rev was, but the 2nd rev (which are all I could find for the 7950s now) are not


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> So if I were to undervolt a Gentle Typhoon AP-15 to 9V using a resistor:
> 
> One of them draws 0.083A at 12V (confirmed), so its resistance should be ~145Ω. Using a DMM I measured 0.033A at 5V (molex cables swapped), which shows a resistance of ~150Ω. So I'll assume the fan's resistance is between 145-150Ω.
> 
> Using a simple voltage divider, I found out that to get 9V to the AP-15 through the 12V rail I would have to put a ~50Ω resistor in series to the fan.
> 
> Through measuring with the DMM I also found out that the current draw of the fan also goes down linearly with the voltage, so at 9V the current draw should be around 0.062A, giving us ~0.56W power consumption on the fan.
> 
> The power consumption of the resistor would be different though. If I'm correct it should be 3V (the voltage drop) * 0.062A ~= 0.19W. So the ideal resistor should be a 50Ω resistor rated at 1/4W, right?
> __________________
> 
> If I were to connect multiple AP-15s to a single molex connector, I would actually be connecting them in parallel, right? In this case should I use a 50Ω 1/4W resistor in series with each fan, or could I use a single resistor on the 12V node? If the latter is possible/advisable how would I go about calculating what resistor is needed?
> 
> Thanks for reading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a way better approach to this, use a voltage divider circuit:
> 
> 
> 
> You would put this between your power supply and whatever you want powered at 9V, effectively creating a 9V rail.
> 
> Example:
> 
> Say use 1k and 3k resistors
> 
> Vout = Vs * R2/(R1+R2) = 12v * 3k/(1k+3k) = 12 * 3/4 = 9v
Click to expand...

It wouldn't quite work that way . . . .

Reason being that the effective resistance of the fan motor would then be a parallel resistance with R2, and being much, much lower, would be the only effective resistance to figure with, so you'd be looking at 150 ohms out of 1150 ohms which would give the fan ~1.5 volts.

In a series circuit, the OP was correct with the 50 Ohm resistor, and also correct with his 3V drop across the resistor times the current thru the loop to get 0.19W as the power dissipation of the resistor

Pretty much all the resistors I've seen in the low voltage adapters that come with a lot of fans use 1W resistors, as they have more surface area to dissipate heat, especially where they are all covered in a layer or two of heat shrink.

47, 51, & 56 Ohms are the standard values in that range for common resistor types.

I'd go with a 1W for the same reason that most fan makers that include low voltage adapters do.

Darlene


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> There is a way better approach to this, use a voltage divider circuit:
> 
> 
> 
> You would put this between your power supply and whatever you want powered at 9V, effectively creating a 9V rail.
> 
> Example:
> 
> Say use 1k and 3k resistors
> 
> Vout = Vs * R2/(R1+R2) = 12v * 3k/(1k+3k) = 12 * 3/4 = 9v
> 
> Again, with this approach, adding more fans to that 9V rail will not effect the voltage divider.
> 
> Whats more is, you can use add a potentiometer to give you a variable controller. All yo do here is use a constant for R2 and a pot for R1 to vary the output voltage
> 
> Example
> 
> Vs = 12v
> R1 [10k Potentiometer] = 0->10k
> R2 = 10k
> 
> Vmax (R1 = 0) = 12 * 10k/(10k + 0) = 12 * 1 = 12v
> Vmin (R1 = 10k) = 12 * 10k/(10k + 10k) = 12 * 1/2 = 6v
> 
> Now you can turn the potentiometer and have a linear ramp from 6v-12v. Oh look, we just built a simple fan speed controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> If you'd like an example, I have all the parts lying around and could put together an example video


I used a voltage divider too, putting the fan in place of R2 (150Ω) and a resistor with 1/3rd of the resistance as R1 (50Ω).

What you're suggesting is actually adding the fans in parallel to R2, which in my original plan is adding the fans in parallel to the first fan, using just one 50Ω resistor. I would have to use a much bigger resistor with a bigger wattage rating though as the current draw will be multiplied by the number of fans effectively multiplying the wattage by the same amount.

Am I correct?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It wouldn't quite work that way . . . .
> 
> Reason being that the effective resistance of the fan motor would then be a parallel resistance with R2, and being much, much lower, would be the only effective resistance to figure with, so you'd be looking at 150 ohms out of 1150 ohms which would give the fan ~1.5 volts.
> 
> In a series circuit, the OP was correct with the 50 Ohm resistor, and also correct with his 3V drop across the resistor times the current thru the loop to get 0.19W as the power dissipation of the resistor
> 
> Pretty much all the resistors I've seen in the low voltage adapters that come with a lot of fans use 1W resistors, as they have more surface area to dissipate heat, especially where they are all covered in a layer or two of heat shrink.
> 
> 47, 51, & 56 Ohms are the standard values in that range for common resistor types.
> 
> I'd go with a 1W for the same reason that most fan makers that include low voltage adapters do.
> 
> Darlene


I knew it wouldn't be that simple..









So what are you suggesting, usual daisy-chaining and one resistor per fan?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please create a thread.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> There is a way better approach to this, use a voltage divider circuit:
> 
> 
> 
> You would put this between your power supply and whatever you want powered at 9V, effectively creating a 9V rail.
> 
> Example:
> 
> Say use 1k and 3k resistors
> 
> Vout = Vs * R2/(R1+R2) = 12v * 3k/(1k+3k) = 12 * 3/4 = 9v
> 
> Again, with this approach, adding more fans to that 9V rail will not effect the voltage divider.
> 
> Whats more is, you can use add a potentiometer to give you a variable controller. All yo do here is use a constant for R2 and a pot for R1 to vary the output voltage
> 
> Example
> 
> Vs = 12v
> R1 [10k Potentiometer] = 0->10k
> R2 = 10k
> 
> Vmax (R1 = 0) = 12 * 10k/(10k + 0) = 12 * 1 = 12v
> Vmin (R1 = 10k) = 12 * 10k/(10k + 10k) = 12 * 1/2 = 6v
> 
> Now you can turn the potentiometer and have a linear ramp from 6v-12v. Oh look, we just built a simple fan speed controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> If you'd like an example, I have all the parts lying around and could put together an example video
> 
> 
> 
> I used a voltage divider too, putting the fan in place of R2 (150Ω) and a resistor with 1/3rd of the resistance as R1 (50Ω).
> 
> What you're suggesting is actually adding the fans in parallel to R2, which in my original plan is adding the fans in parallel to the first fan, using just one 50Ω resistor. I would have to use a much bigger resistor with a bigger wattage rating though as the current draw will be multiplied by the number of fans effectively multiplying the wattage by the same amount.
> 
> Am I correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It wouldn't quite work that way . . . .
> 
> Reason being that the effective resistance of the fan motor would then be a parallel resistance with R2, and being much, much lower, would be the only effective resistance to figure with, so you'd be looking at 150 ohms out of 1150 ohms which would give the fan ~1.5 volts.
> 
> In a series circuit, the OP was correct with the 50 Ohm resistor, and also correct with his 3V drop across the resistor times the current thru the loop to get 0.19W as the power dissipation of the resistor
> 
> Pretty much all the resistors I've seen in the low voltage adapters that come with a lot of fans use 1W resistors, as they have more surface area to dissipate heat, especially where they are all covered in a layer or two of heat shrink.
> 
> 47, 51, & 56 Ohms are the standard values in that range for common resistor types.
> 
> I'd go with a 1W for the same reason that most fan makers that include low voltage adapters do.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I knew it wouldn't be that simple..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what are you suggesting, *usual daisy-chaining and one resistor per fan*?
Click to expand...

Yep,

That's what's been proven to work the most reliably if you're not using a controller.

The low voltage adapters that comes with some fans use two 1W resistors in series to spread the heat dissipation across more surface area., but the AP15's current draw is very low compared to some fans, so a single 1W per fan would be fine.

Darlene


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It wouldn't quite work that way . . . .
> 
> Reason being that the effective resistance of the fan motor would then be a parallel resistance with R2, and being much, much lower, would be the only effective resistance to figure with, so you'd be looking at 150 ohms out of 1150 ohms which would give the fan ~1.5 volts.
> 
> In a series circuit, the OP was correct with the 50 Ohm resistor, and also correct with his 3V drop across the resistor times the current thru the loop to get 0.19W as the power dissipation of the resistor
> 
> Pretty much all the resistors I've seen in the low voltage adapters that come with a lot of fans use 1W resistors, as they have more surface area to dissipate heat, especially where they are all covered in a layer or two of heat shrink.
> 
> 47, 51, & 56 Ohms are the standard values in that range for common resistor types.
> 
> I'd go with a 1W for the same reason that most fan makers that include low voltage adapters do.
> 
> Darlene


You're right, just woke up and wasn't thinking it all through, lol.

I overlooked the output would be in parallel with the R2...Ignore what I said previously.

To accomplish what I was saying, you'd need some op amps in there and control the gain level with a pot


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please create a thread.


BNEG's jealous at our mad science skillz..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yep,
> 
> That's what's been proven to work the most reliably if you're not using a controller.
> 
> The low voltage adapters that comes with some fans use two 1W resistors in series to spread the heat dissipation across more surface area., but the AP15's current draw is very low compared to some fans, so a single 1W per fan would be fine.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the info. I'll proceed with one 50Ω 1W per fan, and if they're getting hot I'll make them double 25s.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The first rev was, but the 2nd rev (which are all I could find for the 7950s now) are not


and to think I sold the rev 1.


----------



## TampaChaz

The Final Pics of the NZXT Phantom in all her Red Glory
















I'm finally happy with it







Now I can move on to my Scratch Build....I need a cheaper hobby


----------



## szeged

its glorious!

nominated for motm august imo!


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its glorious!
> 
> nominated for motm august imo!


WOW...thank you. What a flattering and unexpected compliment


----------



## Juthos

Talking about controller:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPQaMowIrmU&feature=c4-overview&list=UUgfhtVdModYnnBj0VbXagbQ

Thanks mini


----------



## Fanboy88

@khemist That backplate is sexy.


----------



## kcuestag

I got a sleeved NZXT 2m led kit!



I also hid the led cables from the CPU block so they don't go over the RAM.









Thoughts?









PS: B-Negative, this is my final upgrade for a while, so you can update it on the spreadsheet if you'd like.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please create a thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BNEG's jealous at our mad science skillz..
Click to expand...

Not at all,the last 7 pages or so are answering problems that are not related to this thread,specific help requires its own thread.
Dont clutter up this one.

Anyway....
I made some changes to the res design to more mimic the AC kit im planning on.



Thicker window and adding the bolt thru face plate ties in nicely with the 780/Titan blocks.
Also etched aquacomputer into the front.



+ Pins came out of my finger yesterday!

-Splint stays on for another 2 weeks....

Alu is on its way for the backplate and interior,still 2 weeks before i can do anything with it,its just going to sit in the corner.....staring at me......


----------



## SinatraFan

B Neg...

Fine job on that S3


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I got a sleeved NZXT 2m led kit!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also hid the led cables from the CPU block so they don't go over the RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: B-Negative, this is my final upgrade for a while, so you can update it on the spreadsheet if you'd like.


Nice rig you have there. Do you find the heatkiller gpu blocks to be heavy? Did you use an assisting bracket on the upper gpu backplate going to the reservoir pump mount?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice rig you have there. Do you find the heatkiller gpu blocks to be heavy? Did you use an assisting bracket on the upper gpu backplate going to the reservoir pump mount?


Every GPU block is heavy, I previously had Aquacomputer Aquagrafx GTX680 blocks and they were just as heavy.









And no, I didn't use anything to keep the reservoir/pump there, except their own installation holder which comes with it already and is screwed into the hard drive bays.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Talking about controller:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPQaMowIrmU&feature=c4-overview&list=UUgfhtVdModYnnBj0VbXagbQ
> 
> Thanks mini


Thank you for making me hate my life. I FINALLY pulled the trigger and bought an Aquaero 5 Pro, that came in the mail 2 days ago an isn't even hooked up yet. Guess I'll have to send it back....


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Every GPU block is heavy, I previously had Aquacomputer Aquagrafx GTX680 blocks and they were just as heavy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no, I didn't use anything to keep the reservoir/pump there, except their own installation holder which comes with it already and is screwed into the hard drive bays.


Ok lol. It just kinda looked like there was a bracket there. I couldn't see clearly from that angle. I have a couple of XSPC GTX670 blocks that I'm going to use on GTX760's. When I got the blocks delivered I was like man these things feel quite heavy. I was concerned about the PCIe slots bearing the weight of everything. The Heatkiller blocks are a tad bit heavier than the XSPC blocks for the GTX670. That's why I was asking.


----------



## kpoeticg

"The Aquaero 6 has also been issued to all the fan connectors with the possibility for connection of PWM fans. This may be in addition to the PWM control also switched off completely. "

Yep that settles it. My brand new unused Aquaero 5 Pro is goin back


----------



## Clockwerk

Well rig is done for now until I can find time for sleeving/custom cables, shroud and grill/dust filter for bottom radiator. Would also love to throw some mobo blocks on if anybody decides to release them for the mpower max. Have a newborn at home now so most of that is not happening any time soon. Would appreciate some suggestions on case lighting though, I am at a loss and it has been driving me nuts. Pics are cell phone pics and not the greatest (Also a terrible photographer so it probably wouldn't matter what the camera was







) Hopefully didn't embarrass myself to bad after seeing some of the outstanding work posted in this thread. Simply jaw dropping work being done around here.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Well rig is done for now until I can find time for sleeving/custom cables, shroud and grill/dust filter for bottom radiator. Would also love to throw some mobo blocks on if anybody decides to release them for the mpower max. Have a newborn at home now so most of that is not happening any time soon. Would appreciate some suggestions on case lighting though, I am at a loss and it has been driving me nuts. Pics are cell phone pics and not the greatest (Also a terrible photographer so it probably wouldn't matter what the camera was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Hopefully didn't embarrass myself to bad after seeing some of the outstanding work posted in this thread. Simply jaw dropping work being done around here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean build you got there.







How's the I5-4670K with the Raystorm block treating you? Assuming you have the K version for overclocking on a water cooled build.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Well rig is done for now until I can find time for sleeving/custom cables, shroud and grill/dust filter for bottom radiator. Would also love to throw some mobo blocks on if anybody decides to release them for the mpower max. Have a newborn at home now so most of that is not happening any time soon. Would appreciate some suggestions on case lighting though, I am at a loss and it has been driving me nuts. Pics are cell phone pics and not the greatest (Also a terrible photographer so it probably wouldn't matter what the camera was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Hopefully didn't embarrass myself to bad after seeing some of the outstanding work posted in this thread. Simply jaw dropping work being done around here.


Love yellow build!
maybe put some pass through and add angled fittings on the mid plate would make it tidier?
looks like the tube from the mid plate to card is pretty stiff


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Love yellow build!
> maybe put some pass through and add angled fittings on the mid plate would make it tidier?
> looks like the tube from the mid plate to card is pretty stiff


Yeah, I didn't really think of doing that until after it was all together (I also did not realize how stiff the Primochill Advanced LRT is)and I didn't want to make an order for PPCs for just a few fittings. I don't really have time to do a full tear down right now anyway so I will probably do that if/when motherboard blocks come out and I can find time to slap those on as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Clean build you got there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's the I5-4670K with the Raystorm block treating you? Assuming you have the K version for overclocking on a water cooled build.


Going pretty well so far. Got up to 4.5 at 1.26v but then hit a bit of a voltage wall to get stable at 4.6/4.7, still not 100% stable past 4.5. At 4.5 temps stay around 60C under load, room temp around 25C. Probably will end up swapping the chip out at Microcenter and taking another shot at the silicon lottery if i cant get stable at at least 4.7 with a reasonable voltage. Gotta love 30 day return policy with no questions asked. Would love to hit 4.8 or higher.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Yeah, I didn't really think of doing that until after it was all together (I also did not realize how stiff the Primochill Advanced LRT is)and I didn't want to make an order for PPCs for just a few fittings. I don't really have time to do a full tear down right now anyway so I will probably do that if/when motherboard blocks come out and I can find time to slap those on as well.
> Going pretty well so far. Got up to 4.5 at 1.26v but then hit a bit of a voltage wall to get stable at 4.6/4.7, still not 100% stable past 4.5. At 4.5 temps stay around 60C under load, room temp around 25C. Probably will end up swapping the chip out at Microcenter and taking another shot at the silicon lottery if i cant get stable at at least 4.7 with a reasonable voltage. Gotta love 30 day return policy with no questions asked. Would love to hit 4.8 or higher.


by voltage wall you mean the voltage wont go higher?
any plan to delid the chip as well?


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> by voltage wall you mean the voltage wont go higher?
> any plan to delid the chip as well?


Oh no, it goes much higher







. I just meant that the increase in voltage that it takes me to go from 4.5 to 4.6 is a pretty significant jump and it is an even worse jump at 4.7. I am playing around with other settings and options, but so far all the bsod's I get are 0124 which I believe is usually caused from a lack of voltage. No plans on delidding at the moment. From what I have read the results for delidding Haswell chips provides nowhere near the results people saw from delidding Ivy chips so I don't really think it is worth it at the moment. Besides, heat isn't really an issue at all right now and I have plenty of thermal headroom to play with.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Going pretty well so far. Got up to 4.5 at 1.26v but then hit a bit of a voltage wall to get stable at 4.6/4.7, still not 100% stable past 4.5. At 4.5 temps stay around 60C under load, room temp around 25C. Probably will end up swapping the chip out at Microcenter and taking another shot at the silicon lottery if i cant get stable at at least 4.7 with a reasonable voltage. Gotta love 30 day return policy with no questions asked. Would love to hit 4.8 or higher.


I wish I lived near a Microcenter. They have great prices on a lot of their in store pickup only stuff. I've read that the 4670k was a little trickier to overclock. I ended up going with the 3570k. I haven't tried to overclock mine yet as I haven't got all of my water cooling parts. That sounds like a pretty decent overclock though. I'd be happy with a 4.2 stable, but I'm just getting started with all of the water cooling and overclocking madness.


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I wish I lived near a Microcenter. They have great prices on a lot of their in store pickup only stuff. I've read that the 4670k was a little trickier to overclock. I ended up going with the 3570k. I haven't tried to overclock mine yet as I haven't got all of my water cooling parts. That sounds like a pretty decent overclock though. I'd be happy with a 4.2 stable, but I'm just getting started with all of the water cooling and overclocking madness.


Have a 4770k, but essentially the same for overclocking purposes. I never tried overclocking an Ivy chip, came from Sandy which was a piece of cake to OC. Haswell so far is a bit trickier and just doesn't seem to like to go as high. Honestly the only thing nice about Microcenter is their processor/mobo prices and that I can just go their so I don't have to wait for stuff to be shipped (horribly impatient person). Their prices on just about everything else component related are not that awesome unless you catch a sale or get them to price match. I would love them to expand their watercooling and case modding/accessory selection, it is fairly bad. I do love their return policy though.


----------



## Buehlar

I thought this place was for pics only??? Whats all this talking about?
You guy's are such a terrible influance...ruined my social life! Not to mention my empty wallet








j/k... It's a great source of info indeed









Only problem is that I just recently finished my build and now I'm itching to tear it down to polish the freaking blocks









Maybe go back with Pastel White? IDK I need some help here so what you guy's think?

Any suggestions (besides rehab) are welcomed


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Have a 4770k, but essentially the same for overclocking purposes. I never tried overclocking an Ivy chip, came from Sandy which was a piece of cake to OC. Haswell so far is a bit trickier and just doesn't seem to like to go as high. Honestly the only thing nice about Microcenter is their processor/mobo prices and that I can just go their so I don't have to wait for stuff to be shipped (horribly impatient person). Their prices on just about everything else component related are not that awesome unless you catch a sale or get them to price match. I would love them to expand their watercooling and case modding/accessory selection, it is fairly bad. I do love their return policy though.


Oh okay. You got the big boy 4770k. That's what I get for assuming. I too am an impatient person, but I suppose I don't have much of a choice since I live in a small town that doesn't have all the good high tech stuff.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I thought this place was for pics only??? Whats all this talking about?
> You guy's are such a terrible influance...ruined my social life! Not to mention my empty wallet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k... It's a great source of info indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only problem is that I just recently finished my build and now I'm itching to tear it down to polish the freaking blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe go back with Pastel White? IDK I need some help here so what you guy's think?
> 
> Any suggestions (besides rehab) are welcomed


Dont you think it would be too much in term of color if you use white pastel?
Its pretty packed in there already

Brw what size of heatsink do you use on that motherboard capacitors?
Im talking about the one near the vram block, ive ordered some but its too big and there is a gap left near where the L corner of the vram block


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Dont you think it would be too much in term of color if you use white pastel?
> Its pretty packed in there already
> 
> Brw what size of heatsink do you use on that motherboard capacitors?
> Im talking about the one near the vram block, ive ordered some but its too big and there is a gap left near where the L corner of the vram block


IDK that's where the suggestions would be of help









For the heatsinks...this vv



I had to file the corner one a little bit for it to fit closer.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> IDK that's where the suggestions would be of help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the heatsinks...this vv


thx! +1

any would stick to mayhem pastel red to keep the theme intact
or probably mix red and black pastel to make it dark dark red

or...
go for UV red, it would look awesome in the dark!
UV+Polished block = fluidgasm


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> thx! +1
> 
> any would stick to mayhem pastel red to keep the theme intact
> or probably mix red and black pastel to make it dark dark red
> 
> or...
> go for UV red, it would look awesome in the dark!
> UV+Polished block = fluidgasm


No problem and thanks for the input.

Noticed that you also have the dual parallel bridge. Have you noticed any difference in your GPU core temps?
My bottom GPU runs average 15~17 degree hotter under load and 2~3 hotter at idle than the top GPU. It cant be the TIM because I've swapped the cards between PCIe slots but the bottom GPU temps are still higher. Top GPU temps run 27~29 idle and 41~43 load. Bottom 31~33 idle and 57~59 load
IDK what it could be other than the parallel bridge. I thought about getting a serial bridge and trying that.
Just wondering if you had this experience because our specs are very simular.

BTW congrats on Guru3D.com AUG rig of the month. Sexy build


----------



## szeged

Hey guys, i have two questions that maybe someone here can help me out with.

Im trying to clean out and reassemble an EK titan block so i can do a giveaway in the titan club (shhh dont tell anyone







) but currently im facing two problems, one, no matter how much i scrub and clean i cannot get the transparent residue stuck in the water channels out, it looks like the stereotypical plasticizer residue, but it may just be dried dye residue from previous use.

the second problem im having is, the bigger O ring will simply not stay put when i attempt to put the plexi cover back on, so i currently have it painters taped down while typing this hoping itll maybe hold its shape lol, ive heard silicon jelly can help hold it in place, any other suggestions of household items i can use to keep it in place while applying the top?

heres a couple bad phone pics i just took, hopefully the quality isnt so awful that you can actually see my problems.




you can see the residue im talking about best near the inlet and outlet of the FC link area, ive been scrubbing with soapy water and a soft bristle tooth brush for hours, no advances in cleanliness so far.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, i have two questions that maybe someone here can help me out with.
> 
> Im trying to clean out and reassemble an EK titan block so i can do a giveaway in the titan club (shhh dont tell anyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but currently im facing two problems, one, no matter how much i scrub and clean i cannot get the transparent residue stuck in the water channels out, it looks like the stereotypical plasticizer residue, but it may just be dried dye residue from previous use.
> 
> the second problem im having is, the bigger O ring will simply not stay put when i attempt to put the plexi cover back on, so i currently have it painters taped down while typing this hoping itll maybe hold its shape lol, ive heard silicon jelly can help hold it in place, any other suggestions of household items i can use to keep it in place while applying the top?
> 
> heres a couple bad phone pics i just took, hopefully the quality isnt so awful that you can actually see my problems.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can see the residue im talking about best near the inlet and outlet of the FC link area, ive been scrubbing with soapy water and a soft bristle tooth brush for hours, no advances in cleanliness so far.


try putting the o ring gasket in a bowl of distilled water then in the freezer for an hour. it should shrink it enough for you to put it in place. if that doesn't work, silicone grease or super glue can help. yes, ive use super glue on one of my old gtx 680 ftw blocks as the small gasket was a pita to place. and thank you for sending me a titan with a waterblock. i think our new friendship is starting to blossom


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> No problem and thanks for the input.
> 
> Noticed that you also have the dual parallel bridge. Have you noticed any difference in your GPU core temps?
> My bottom GPU runs average 15~17 degree hotter under load and 2~3 hotter at idle than the top GPU. It cant be the TIM because I've swapped the cards between PCIe slots but the bottom GPU temps are still higher. Top GPU temps run 27~29 idle and 41~43 load. Bottom 31~33 idle and 57~59 load
> IDK what it could be other than the parallel bridge. I thought about getting a serial bridge and trying that.
> Just wondering if you had this experience because our specs are very simular.
> 
> BTW congrats on Guru3D.com AUG rig of the month. Sexy build


Thank you!

well, there isnt much different between my cards, mine run idle with 1c temp difference (@24c and 25c)
haven't try on load but when gaming the difference is only 3c max (I run 1x 1440p monitor, highest setting Call Of Duty at 96hz)
it should be your TIM, I use the TIM which comes with the block
would like to change the TIM with IC Diamond but the stupid backplate bolt get dull/stuck and I have no idea how to remove it

I am really thinking to change my coolant to pastel as well, but man it would cost me 100$ for 3 bottles of the pastel incl shipping to my country

I think you need more rads to suit your need my friend!
must poison you with more overkill!









thinking of it we really do have similar build


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> thx! +1
> 
> any would stick to mayhem pastel red to keep the theme intact
> or probably mix red and black pastel to make it dark dark red
> 
> or...
> go for UV red, it would look awesome in the dark!
> UV+Polished block = fluidgasm


Personally wouldn't mix red and black. I'd just add more deep red dye and a touch of blue dye to get a really dark red


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> well, there isnt much different between my cards, mine run idle with 1c temp difference (@24c and 25c)
> haven't try on load but when gaming the difference is only 3c max (I run 1x 1440p monitor, highest setting Call Of Duty at 96hz)
> it should be your TIM, I use the TIM which comes with the block
> would like to change the TIM with IC Diamond but the stupid backplate bolt get dull/stuck and I have no idea how to remove it
> 
> I am really thinking to change my coolant to pastel as well, but man it would cost me 100$ for 3 bottles of the pastel incl shipping to my country
> 
> I think you need more rads to suit your need my friend!
> must poison you with more overkill!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thinking of it we really do have similar build


It cant be the TIM its OK, because when I exchange PCIe slots It doesn't matter which card I installed in the bottom, it will always runs hot
But I agree with needing more rad. I wan't plannng on getting this extreme when I started








My only option inside this case would be to replace the top 240 with a 360.
Or go external which I'd like to avoid.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> try putting the o ring gasket in a bowl of distilled water then in the freezer for an hour. it should shrink it enough for you to put it in place. if that doesn't work, silicone grease or super glue can help. yes, ive use super glue on one of my old gtx 680 ftw blocks as the small gasket was a pita to place. and thank you for sending me a titan with a waterblock. i think our new friendship is starting to blossom


thanks ill try the freezing, and if that doesnt work maybe some light glue









any idea on what i should do to clean the plexi top?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> It cant be the TIM its OK, because when I exchange PCIe slots It doesn't matter which card I installed in the bottom, it will always runs hot
> But I agree with needing more rad. I wan't plannng on getting this extreme when I started
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My only option inside this case would be to replace the top 240 with a 360.
> Or go external which I'd like to avoid.


Are you really in love with your c70?
I know its a great case but to see you are turning into one of us (WC freak)
I dont think it would serve you any good

I mean like you live in the US and getting case such as Caselabs is just not too troublesome
its a really good investment that case is

really trying to get a hold of one but man, the shipping is killing me (again)


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Are you really in love with your c70?
> I know its a great case but to see you are turning into one of us (WC freak)
> I dont think it would serve you any good
> 
> I mean like you live in the US and getting case such as Caselabs is just not too troublesome
> its a really good investment that case is
> 
> really trying to get a hold of one but man, the shipping is killing me (again)


I like the case but now its too small for my addiction








Really been wanting to do a reverse layout in a SM8


----------



## tipes

More likely a bad seating of the raystorm - when I had my raystorm last year it only had a sticky sheet over the copper base. Sounds like you removed that -
hence my suggestion you may need to re mount. Possibly too much paste????


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quick question.

I have a mcp355 pump and no longer have the small sponge pad that came with it. Is it required to run the pump? If so can someone link me to a replacement pad or another thing that would do the same thing??


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> I have a mcp355 pump and no longer have the small sponge pad that came with it. Is it required to run the pump? If so can someone link me to a replacement pad or another thing that would do the same thing??


For $1.50 you can buy a replacement pad from our website. They're under water cooling and accessories.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> I have a mcp355 pump and no longer have the small sponge pad that came with it. Is it required to run the pump? If so can someone link me to a replacement pad or another thing that would do the same thing??


It's not required, no.


----------



## Daredevil 720

I'm currently using a piece of sound proofing sponge under my MCP35X and it's dead silent. The whole point of this sponge is to absorb the vibrations.


----------



## badtaylorx

i run a MCP35X2,

and mine is really really quiet (because of the de-coupling)

i can actually hear the sound of the fluid over the pump


----------



## skyhigh2004

That feeling you get right before you put water in for the first time lol. Shouldn't have any leaks but keeping my fingers crossed anyway


----------



## wermad

Tempting to go quad 7970/7950s as they're very cheap these days.


----------



## nleksan

Hmm, something seems off about that build, I just can't quite place it....









Oh, of course! It needs MOAR GPU's!!!!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, i have two questions that maybe someone here can help me out with.
> 
> Im trying to clean out and reassemble an EK titan block so i can do a giveaway in the titan club (shhh dont tell anyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but currently im facing two problems, one, no matter how much i scrub and clean i cannot get the transparent residue stuck in the water channels out, it looks like the stereotypical plasticizer residue, but it may just be dried dye residue from previous use.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> the second problem im having is, the bigger O ring will simply not stay put when i attempt to put the plexi cover back on, so i currently have it painters taped down while typing this hoping itll maybe hold its shape lol, ive heard silicon jelly can help hold it in place, any other suggestions of household items i can use to keep it in place while applying the top?
> 
> heres a couple bad phone pics i just took, hopefully the quality isnt so awful that you can actually see my problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can see the residue im talking about best near the inlet and outlet of the FC link area, ive been scrubbing with soapy water and a soft bristle tooth brush for hours, no advances in cleanliness so far.


so anyone know what i should do here to try to clean out the plexi block?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

vinegar and water is the only thing I know of... Maybe 2000 grit wet sand?


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Hmm, something seems off about that build, I just can't quite place it....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, of course! It needs MOAR GPU's!!!!!!


If only there was a version of windows that supported more than 4 GPUs.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> That feeling you get right before you put water in for the first time lol. Shouldn't have any leaks but keeping my fingers crossed anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love your build.


----------



## homermartinez1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> great


sexy sexy!


----------



## defiler2k

So I introduced Mr. 4770K to Mr. Hammer, Mr. Vice and Mr. Block of Pine and dropped my temperatures by about 19C on load, now my temps are so low that my fans don't kick in as high and my pumps are the loudest thing on my case. Any suggestion for quieter pumps? I have a pair of standard Swiftech MCP-655-B on my system running in parallel. Or any mods that can quiet down these things?


----------



## Sunreeper

I've heard a pump top and upgrade kit can actually help decrease noise with that pump. Another suggestion would be to get a lot noise absorbing anti vibration foam and place your pumps on and around it.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I introduced Mr. 4770K to Mr. Hammer, Mr. Vice and Mr. Block of Pine and dropped my temperatures by about 19C on load, now my temps are so low that my fans don't kick in as high and my pumps are the loudest thing on my case. Any suggestion for quieter pumps? I have a pair of standard Swiftech MCP-655-B on my system running in parallel. Or any mods that can quiet down these things?


Option IMO would be to change the pump with speed control
not sure about your components but i've run into the same problem as yours before, and I decided to only run one pump instead of two
I dont see any temp change instead it reduce the temp by 1c on daily use
might be the heat dump from the pump is less

fyi Im running 2 cards, an oc cpu (4.8ghz), 360+480+240 rad and two reservoirs
with mcp355


----------



## bond32

Here's my current setup :


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tempting to go quad 7970/7950s as they're very cheap these days.


Yeah it's getting increasingly more difficult for me to wait for V.I. 7970's/7990's are doing the limbo right now. Every time i check it seems to be a little bit cheaper than the last time


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I introduced Mr. 4770K to Mr. Hammer, Mr. Vice and Mr. Block of Pine and dropped my temperatures by about 19C on load, now my temps are so low that my fans don't kick in as high and my pumps are the loudest thing on my case. Any suggestion for quieter pumps? I have a pair of standard Swiftech MCP-655-B on my system running in parallel. Or any mods that can quiet down these things?


Pumps in parallel=big no no.
Pumps should be run in serial.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I introduced Mr. 4770K to Mr. Hammer, Mr. Vice and Mr. Block of Pine and dropped my temperatures by about 19C on load, now my temps are so low that my fans don't kick in as high and my pumps are the loudest thing on my case. *Any suggestion for quieter pumps?* I have a pair of standard Swiftech MCP-655-B on my system running in parallel. Or any mods that can quiet down these things?


D5 Vario turned down to the lowest setting.







Pretty damn near silent.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> For $1.50 *before shipping* you can buy a replacement pad from our website. They're under water cooling and accessories.


Fixed that for you, you're welcome







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Here's my current setup :


Second person in a couple pages who has both GPU bridge fittings up top. Why is that, it just looks weird, are you supposed to do that or something ?
In your case it would even look better and be more practical to have the right fitting at the bottom of the bridge with a 90 degree fitting going into a straight fitting on the rad insteaf of the two 90s.


----------



## DoktorTerror




----------



## bundymania

Where is the BP Block available ?


----------



## _REAPER_

That Bitspower block is a nice looking block just wish it was clear so you could see the fluid go through it


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Where is the BP Block available ?


http://www.bitspower.com.tw/








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> That Bitspower block is a nice looking block just wish it was clear so you could see the fluid go through it


like this


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

DoktorTerror, you're going to cause me to buy all new blocks!!! My Sabertooth board would look real nice with those smoked blocks!!!


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/


OK so you bought it directly in taiwan ?


----------



## DrakeZ

finally my build has done!









i need your opinion guys!













anyway i want to add one loop to GPU and i'll use universal block
currently i have one radiator, Black Ice Pro III, 360 rad

and if i add one 140 radiator, it would be enough or not?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Very clean. Always a fan of black and white


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> finally my build has done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i need your opinion guys!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyway i want to add one loop to GPU and i'll use universal block
> currently i have one radiator, Black Ice Pro III, 360 rad
> 
> and if i add one 140 radiator, it would be enough or not?


IMO, looks good. But if you're going to add the GPU soon, it doesn't need to be on a separate loop. It sounded like your intention was to run another loop just for the GPU. It would get messy fast and look too cluttered for that case. Running the CPU and one GPU in your current loop, with just that 360 should be fine for cooling.


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Very clean. Always a fan of black and white


thanks!








i used to be a fan of black and red, now i fall in love with black and white so that's why i choose this color
and i love a white case!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> IMO, looks good. But if you're going to add the GPU soon, it doesn't need to be on a separate loop. It sounded like your intention was to run another loop just for the GPU. It would get messy fast and look too cluttered for that case. Running the CPU and one GPU in your current loop, with just that 360 should be fine for cooling.


upss my bad, what i really meant before was add GPU to the loop, not add another loop







sorry for the bad explanation









so it should be enough right with only one 360 radiator? i plan to get either 140 rad or 240 rad


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i used to be a fan of black and red, now i fall in love with black and white so that's why i choose this color
> and i love a white case!
> upss my bad, what i really meant before was add GPU to the loop, not add another loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the bad explanation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it should be enough right with only one 360 radiator? i plan to get either 140 rad or 240 rad


Cooling a MSI R5850 and an i5 3570K? The 360 should do fine. If you do plan on adding another rad though, like for future expansion, I would try to get a 240 in there somewhere.


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Cooling a MSI R5850 and an i5 3570K? The 360 should do fine. If you do plan on adding another rad though, like for future expansion, I would try to get a 240 in there somewhere.


Okay then i'll get one 240 soon, lucky my case has a great support for water cooling!

Thanks anyway for the advice


----------



## By-Tor

New pic with new parts...

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/20130902_125617_zpsee9bfd29.jpg.html


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> DoktorTerror, you're going to cause me to buy all new blocks!!! My Sabertooth board would look real nice with those smoked blocks!!!


it often happens










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> OK so you bought it directly in taiwan ?


yes, directly from them


----------



## benito

updated my rig











what it was like before



and before that


----------



## homermartinez1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> updated my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what it was like before
> 
> 
> 
> and before that


Just pure awesomeness


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> updated my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what it was like before
> 
> 
> 
> and before that


looks really nice, but it will even look nicer if you will mix cable colors like white and green


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> updated my rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love the green. You've done a great job at placing everything in the right place. Nice job!


----------



## JohnnyEars

Lovely cpu to gpu bend Benito


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Lovely cpu to gpu bend Benito


i tried making that piece 4 different times and it still isn't perfect, it was a real pain in the A


----------



## 3dMuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> i tried making that piece 4 different times and it still isn't perfect, it was a real pain in the A


Looks pretty perfect to me! Good job


----------



## Art128

Awesome work on the tubing and general moding, benito!

Looks awesome, almost perfect.









Also guys, remember to put the pictures into spoiler ( keep at least one visible..) when you quote someone. It's really annoying to view 3 times the same thing in 20 seconds.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> New pic with new parts...


those thick fans...
You've even stacked it up on the bottom rad
how loud is it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> updated my rig
> 
> what it was like before
> 
> and before that


Like!


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> finally my build has done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i need your opinion guys!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyway i want to add one loop to GPU and i'll use universal block
> currently i have one radiator, Black Ice Pro III, 360 rad
> 
> and if i add one 140 radiator, it would be enough or not?


I like this. I really dig the matte black tubing!


----------



## WebsterXC

Would anyone be kind enough to post some links of some Green&White and Gold&White builds/build logs?

It was cool when I made it, but I'm starting to get sick of my purple/blue fluid. At the same time, I think I want to try my hand at acrylic over my winter break.


----------



## kyismaster

I haven't really seen many gold themed builds lol, hard to match really, I've seen a Gold waterblock if that counts. but other than that, its usually gold black, the classy way.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Would anyone be kind enough to post some links of some Green&White and Gold&White builds/build logs?
> 
> It was cool when I made it, but I'm starting to get sick of my purple/blue fluid. At the same time, I think I want to try my hand at acrylic over my winter break.


Gold&Black build? http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2013/murderbox-mkii-gold/murderbox-mk2-gold.htm

Jeffinslaw


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Gold&Black build? http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2013/murderbox-mkii-gold/murderbox-mk2-gold.htm
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Kudos, forgot about that MDPC build


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Would anyone be kind enough to post some links of some Green&White and Gold&White builds/build logs?
> 
> It was cool when I made it, but I'm starting to get sick of my purple/blue fluid. At the same time, I think I want to try my hand at acrylic over my winter break.


There was a guy with a white shinobi XL who had quite a nice lookin green and white build but I can't find his posts for the life of me. I thought his name was Michaelus but I'm totally wrong as it's not showing in the search feature or the spreadsheet.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> There was a guy with a white shinobi XL who had quite a nice lookin green and white build but I can't find his posts for the life of me. I thought his name was Michaelus but I'm totally wrong as it's not showing in the search feature or the spreadsheet.


Here it is









http://www.overclock.net/t/1277048/build-log-arrival-shinobi-xl-white-full-loop


----------



## NewHighScore

Cheers! Thanks James.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Finally done!


----------



## Squashie

Nais rig m8, if i was to pick on something i would put the VGA powercable behind the tubing and the 24pin cable, small detail


----------



## GlassGamer

Guys... proud to present my own build... let me know what you think:



Check out the rest here:

GlassGamer


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now that's an awesome build.








Too many ideas to incorporate into my own (swap from air to liquid cooling)


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Nice one Glass!!!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlassGamer*
> 
> Guys... proud to present my own build... let me know what you think:
> 
> Check out the rest here:


holy crap!
so good...


----------



## WebsterXC

Thanks to the guys that responded to my build log requests. There was another Green/White/Black build on here a couple months back if anyone knows what I'm talking about. I saved all the finals to my hard drive, but I've since wiped it for college.


----------



## TampaChaz

Need some advice from my favorite gurus. A member from the Red Club thread suggested boxing the pump in the bottom of the case.


I was thinking about making a black carbon fiber cover for it, and wanted some input from you guys for the following:

1 - I'm going to incorporate a 120mm fan to one end of the enclosure to help keep the pump cool. I was thinking of keeping the end open that butts up against the HDD cage and placing the 120mm fan on the opposite end (facing the power supply) since it is visible. There is a front fan that pulls cool air in as well as a side fan and the pump is directly over the bottom chassis vent grate. The power supply pulls it's own cool air in from under the chassis as well and is exhausted right out the back. I don't think the warmed air exhausting onto the power supply will have an impact. Thoughts?

2 - Should I leave the enclosure solid black carbon fiber or incorporate the ROG logo in red carbon fiber, similar to the drive cage cover shown here:


It's busy enough inside so I don't want to over clutter the build. In your opinion, would the logo add to the aesthetics or detract from the cleanliness?

As always, I appreciate everyone's input and criticisms. In the end, it's my build and I have to look at it everyday, but I want something that others enjoy looking at as much as I do.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Thanks to the guys that responded to my build log requests. There was another Green/White/Black build on here a couple months back if anyone knows what I'm talking about. I saved all the finals to my hard drive, but I've since wiped it for college.


This one?


----------



## homermartinez1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Finally done!


I love the red and black theme you have going on!


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> This one?


Nope, I remember it had two tube reservoirs, one pastel green the other pastel black.


----------



## Zoide

Yo guys! I got a quick question for you







Is it possible to use the third inlet/outlet on a tube res, for a drain port? I mean I guess it is, but I cant find anything really









Zoide.

Edit: Figured it all out, ill post pics when its up and running!


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Need some advice from my favorite gurus. A member from the Red Club thread suggested boxing the pump in the bottom of the case.
> 
> I was thinking about making a black carbon fiber cover for it, and wanted some input from you guys for the following:
> 
> 1 - I'm going to incorporate a 120mm fan to one end of the enclosure to help keep the pump cool. I was thinking of keeping the end open that butts up against the HDD cage and placing the 120mm fan on the opposite end (facing the power supply) since it is visible. There is a front fan that pulls cool air in as well as a side fan and the pump is directly over the bottom chassis vent grate. The power supply pulls it's own cool air in from under the chassis as well and is exhausted right out the back. I don't think the warmed air exhausting onto the power supply will have an impact. Thoughts?
> 
> 2 - Should I leave the enclosure solid black carbon fiber or incorporate the ROG logo in red carbon fiber, similar to the drive cage cover shown here:
> 
> 
> It's busy enough inside so I don't want to over clutter the build. In your opinion, would the logo add to the aesthetics or detract from the cleanliness?
> 
> As always, I appreciate everyone's input and criticisms. In the end, it's my build and I have to look at it everyday, but I want something that others enjoy looking at as much as I do.


I'd simply hide the ssd you have in the hdd cage in the back of the case, pull out all the hdd trays and move the pump there. Then you'd just have to "continue" the black cover plate you have on the right all the way down and declare victory. The front intake fan would keep the pump cool too.

Oh, and no to the rog logo. That would def make things way too chaotic.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zoide*
> 
> Yo guys! I got a quick question for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to use the third inlet/outlet on a tube res, for a drain port? I mean I guess it is, but I cant find anything really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zoide.


Yes it's done commonly, however you will have better results with your drain port if it's connected to the absolute bottom point in your loop.

For example, if you have a radiator lower than the reservoir, you will be able to drain the loop fine, but water will stay in the bottom radiator.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Nope, I remember it had two tube reservoirs, one pastel green the other pastel black.


HERE


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> I'd simply hide the ssd you have in the hdd cage in the back of the case, pull out all the hdd trays and move the pump there. Then you'd just have to "continue" the black cover plate you have on the right all the way down and declare victory. The front intake fan would keep the pump cool too.
> 
> Oh, and no to the rog logo. That would def make things way too chaotic.


Interesting thought, but not do-able. There are three other SATA HDDs you can't see. Also this system will be increased to another SSD in the near future. Also, I'd have to move the Res, which isn't possible do to the bay res being used for the CPU. Interesting thought though for a future rendition of this case


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> HERE


That's exactly what I'm looking for thanks!









EDIT: Actually, I don't think it is. I'm almost sure the build I was looking for had a white case (perhaps a Shinobi XL).


----------



## WebsterXC

Double post


----------



## JohnnyEars

@ TampaChaz, the pump looks like it fits well where it is. I'd perhaps just dress the pump up with a red bitspower kit and clear acrylic top


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> @ TampaChaz, the pump looks like it fits well where it is. I'd perhaps just dress the pump up with a red bitspower kit and clear acrylic top


That is a possibility....+rep to you


----------



## Drifbau5

I finished my water cooling a little while ago but now noticed I have a something stuck on my cpu block. I did a proper radiator flush but i guess I didn't get that guy. I'm pretty sure it is just the radiator dirt your supposed to flush out.

Should I be concerned about it? Is it something that requires immediate attention? Could it cause any sort of corrosion? It doesn't really bother me so I was just going to get it out the next time I clean my loop.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> I finished my water cooling a little while ago but now noticed I have a something stuck on my cpu block. I did a proper radiator flush but i guess I didn't get that guy. I'm pretty sure it is just the radiator dirt your supposed to flush out.
> 
> Should I be concerned about it? Is it something that requires immediate attention? Could it cause any sort of corrosion? It doesn't really bother me so I was just going to get it out the next time I clean my loop.


Got a pic? Does it look like its disrupting flow? How are your temps?


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Need some advice from my favorite gurus. A member from the Red Club thread suggested boxing the pump in the bottom of the case.
> 
> I was thinking about making a black carbon fiber cover for it, and wanted some input from you guys for the following:
> 
> 1 - I'm going to incorporate a 120mm fan to one end of the enclosure to help keep the pump cool. I was thinking of keeping the end open that butts up against the HDD cage and placing the 120mm fan on the opposite end (facing the power supply) since it is visible. There is a front fan that pulls cool air in as well as a side fan and the pump is directly over the bottom chassis vent grate. The power supply pulls it's own cool air in from under the chassis as well and is exhausted right out the back. I don't think the warmed air exhausting onto the power supply will have an impact. Thoughts?
> 
> 2 - Should I leave the enclosure solid black carbon fiber or incorporate the ROG logo in red carbon fiber, similar to the drive cage cover shown here:
> 
> It's busy enough inside so I don't want to over clutter the build. In your opinion, would the logo add to the aesthetics or detract from the cleanliness?
> 
> As always, I appreciate everyone's input and criticisms. In the end, it's my build and I have to look at it everyday, but I want something that others enjoy looking at as much as I do.


Really enjoy your build. I would say that there is just way too much going on already. I wouldnt add anymore logos unless I had to.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Interesting thought, but not do-able. There are three other SATA HDDs you can't see. Also this system will be increased to another SSD in the near future. Also, I'd have to move the Res, which isn't possible do to the bay res being used for the CPU. Interesting thought though for a future rendition of this case


In other words nothing a good helping of chainsaw wouldn't fix!


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Got a pic? Does it look like its disrupting flow? How are your temps?


Way too small to get pic and really hard to get a sharp image because of the small case and lighting. Doesn't look like I have any flow disruption really. Around 30 degrees idle, never seen it go past 45 when I'm playing games, haven't stress tested it yet though. I don't think that such a small piece of debris would have an impact on temps, but i could be wrong. I was just wondering if it could lead to corrosion or damage to my block


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlassGamer*
> 
> Guys... proud to present my own build... let me know what you think:
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the rest here:
> 
> GlassGamer


Subscribed...

I've always wanted to do a table project like that, but never knew how to go about it.. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Deano12345

Just about to finalize my parts, someone please shout at me loudly if I'm missing anything, or if stuff wont work together !

CPU : EK Supremacy (Acetal + Nickel)
Res/Pump :EK Bay DCP2.2 Combo Unit
Rads : EK XTX 360 & XTC 140
GPU's : EK FC680 Lightning with EK FC Bridge Dual Serial
Fittings : 10x EK CSQ 10/13 Nickel
Tubing : 5m Primochill LRT


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Need my UT60s and the second GPU block!!! I'm ready!!!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Need my UT60s and the second GPU block!!! I'm ready!!!


Nice! Looks like you're going to have quite a build there.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice! Looks like you're going to have quite a build there.


Oh yeah. I'm sooo pumped!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Need my UT60s and the second GPU block!!! I'm ready!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Build log?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Build log?


I'll start one Thursday morning! I'll be off for four days, so it will be a once a day update!!!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlassGamer*
> 
> Guys... proud to present my own build... let me know what you think:
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the rest here:
> 
> GlassGamer


WOW! that looks good. However it does not look very tall. Whats the height.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Need my UT60s and the second GPU block!!! I'm ready!!!


Nice. Love my UT 60's


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> That's exactly what I'm looking for thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Actually, I don't think it is. I'm almost sure the build I was looking for had a white case (perhaps a Shinobi XL).


I think this is what you're talking about; http://www.overclock.net/t/1277048/build-log-arrival-shinobi-xl-white-full-loop/0_100, his name is Michalius on Overclock, it's a pretty awesome build! He has started another one in a Case Labs case but I don't think it has been updated recently.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> WOW! that looks good. However it does not look very tall. Whats the height.
> Nice. Love my UT 60's


I believe the table is adjustable


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> Finally done!


nice build and NICE case,

but friendly future tips







your case will look 100 times better with indirect lighting, serious!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so anyone know what i should do here to try to clean out the plexi block?


Megiar's PlastX.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> i run a MCP35X2,
> 
> and mine is really really quiet (because of the de-coupling)
> 
> i can actually hear the sound of the fluid over the pump


Normally you shouldn't ever hear the water. That generally means the loop isn't fully bled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Gold&Black build? http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2013/murderbox-mkii-gold/murderbox-mk2-gold.htm
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I hate gold but Charles did such a ridiculously good job on that. Martin's cable management is absolutely ridiculous too. Shame the MurderBox will likely never get made.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlassGamer*
> 
> Guys... proud to present my own build... let me know what you think:
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the rest here:
> 
> GlassGamer


Very nicely done.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> I think this is what you're talking about; http://www.overclock.net/t/1277048/build-log-arrival-shinobi-xl-white-full-loop/0_100, his name is Michalius on Overclock, it's a pretty awesome build! He has started another one in a Case Labs case but I don't think it has been updated recently.


No it's not it. This build log has already been linked, thanks though! I could be completely wrong though, this build may not exist.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Just got my two brand new Titan blocks today, and I noticed the inside plexiglass along the main water channels has some scoring from being machined. Two things: 1) I hear reinstalling the gasket on these blocks is a nightmare, and 2) What do you recommend I do to get it crystal clear transparent?

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/Titanblock.jpg.html


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Just got my two brand new Titan blocks today, and I noticed the inside plexiglass along the main water channels has some scoring from being machined. Two things: 1) I hear reinstalling the gasket on these blocks is a nightmare, and 2) What do you recommend I do to get it crystal clear transparent?
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/Titanblock.jpg.html


You're going to have to open it up and give it a light sanding using like 2000 grit or so.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You're going to have to open it up and give it a light sanding using like 2000 grit or so.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I just bought a grinding tool on Sunday, so I'll give it a try with a polishing compound and polishing bit. I'll try it on the outer pockets first, where I won't have to open the block up.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I just bought a grinding tool on Sunday, so I'll give it a try with a polishing compound and polishing bit. I'll try it on the outer pockets first, where I won't have to open the block up.


That might work. Will have to try it. I'm going off of the video on how to polish the CSQ blocks. Sand with 2000 grit, then 3000 grit and then some polish, can't remember which kind off hand.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## tiborrr12

When the blocks are filled with coolant (even transparent) the white shade goes away.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> When the blocks are filled with coolant (even transparent) the white shade goes away.


This

Also the gasket is a pain to eat back on. At least mine was when I was cleaning oxidation off. Good luck.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That might work. Will have to try it. I'm going off of the video on how to polish the CSQ blocks. Sand with 2000 grit, then 3000 grit and then some polish, can't remember which kind off hand.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Could you post a link to that video?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> This
> 
> Also the gasket is a pain to eat back on. At least mine was when I was cleaning oxidation off. Good luck.


So guessing re-sealing w/ automotive Black RTV or Honda Bond RTV would be a no go as I would think that would work well since it works well at hold automotive components together (especially Honda Bond RTV/Silicone)







but water/liquid cooling computers is still new ground for me vs. autos (cars & trucks)


----------



## Zoide

Currently leak testing!







Still need to do wires on the back tho.. Ill post some more pics once its all up & running!



And wow, the MCP655 is barely making a sound compared to the EK DCP 4.0, even at max


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> This
> 
> Also the gasket is a pain to eat back on. At least mine was when I was cleaning oxidation off. Good luck.


Yea eating those gaskets can be tough, not good for your stomach.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So guessing re-sealing w/ automotive Black RTV or Honda Bond RTV would be a no go as I would think that would work well since it works well at hold automotive components together (especially Honda Bond RTV/Silicone)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but water/liquid cooling computers is still new ground for me vs. autos (cars & trucks)


No you don't want to use any kind of silicone/sealants with PC water cooling blocks. If you have to take a block apart, put it back together the same way with just using the included o-ring.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yea eating those gaskets can be tough, not good for your stomach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No you don't want to use any kind of silicone/sealants with PC water cooling blocks. If you have to take a block apart, put it back together the same way with just using the included o-ring.


Driving and on the ipad auto correct without re reading seems to be a problem lol


----------



## Egami

Ahem. This is an embarrassing one...
I have the EK-FC580 DCII - Acetal+EN (Nickel) block and am about to open it up for cleaning - but I have no idea how to. There's about a million different little bits I could try and screw up/open/over but which ones are the key to success? Naturally the block only has how-to-install-to-gpu instructions with it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> This
> 
> Also the gasket is a pain to eat back on. At least mine was when I was cleaning oxidation off. Good luck.


omg, hate those gaskets. Took me the better part of an hour to get the damn RAM block gasket back on.......can only imagine on a GPU......

Although, the CPU block wasn't terrible......


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> When the blocks are filled with coolant (even transparent) the white shade goes away.


But wouldn't micro polishing help the fluid flow more efficiently and faster?

...Kind of like extrude honing a car intake to allow a better air flow.


----------



## clone38

Done my EK blocks last nite took about 30 minutes to do I used 1500 grit wet and dry them some car polish and the seals where a pita


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clone38*
> 
> Done my EK blocks last nite took about 30 minutes to do I used 1500 grit wet and dry them some car polish and the seals where a pita


Looks good!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> This
> 
> Also the gasket is a pain to eat back on. At least mine was when I was cleaning oxidation off. Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> So guessing re-sealing w/ automotive Black RTV or Honda Bond RTV would be a no go as I would think that would work well since it works well at hold automotive components together (especially Honda Bond RTV/Silicone)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but water/liquid cooling computers is still new ground for me vs. autos (cars & trucks)
Click to expand...

No,use a smear of silicone grease and the o-ring will stick in place

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> When the blocks are filled with coolant (even transparent) the white shade goes away.
> 
> 
> 
> But wouldn't micro polishing help the fluid flow more efficiently and faster?
> 
> ...Kind of like extrude honing a car intake to allow a better air flow.
Click to expand...

You want a small amount of roughness to break up laminar action,adding turbulence is a good thing.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clone38*
> 
> Done my EK blocks last nite took about 30 minutes to do I used 1500 grit wet and dry them some car polish and the seals where a pita


The last thing I need to do is upgrade my blocks on my new build... Don't tempt me.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,use a smear of silicone grease and the o-ring will stick in place
> You want a small amount of roughness to break up laminar action,adding turbulence is a good thing.


See, I would have thought the opposite. I would think that by allowing a quicker flow of coolant through the smoothened block surface, there would be a constant flow of cooler water, versus having internal turbulance to slow it down - causing higher temperatures.

...Granted the coolant is still flowing, maybe there's more heat absorbsion into the water by slowing the flow with turbulance. Is that where you're going with this?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> See, I would have thought the opposite. I would think that by allowing a quicker flow of coolant through the smoothened block surface, there would be a constant flow of cooler water, versus having internal turbulance to slow it down - causing higher temperatures.
> 
> ...Granted the coolant is still flowing, maybe there's more heat absorbsion into the water by slowing the flow with turbulance. Is that where you're going with this?


I could be wrong but I think that the advantage of turbulence is that more water particles will be coming into direct contact with the cooling fins within the block rather than some of it flowing smoothly between/around them, resulting in more efficient heat transfer. The small amount of roughness in the block would probably have a very negligible impact on overall flow rate anyways.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,use a smear of silicone grease and the o-ring will stick in place
> You want a small amount of roughness to break up laminar action,adding turbulence is a good thing.


Ok that's good to know and yeah I wouldn't plan on globbing it on since I don't do that w/ water pumps and such on cars since it can break off and cause damage to a w/p prop or a blockage in a system.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Could you post a link to that video?


On my iPhone so the link may be a mobile one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW-HadrjjIU&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DQW-HadrjjIU&nomobile=1

Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,use a smear of silicone grease and the o-ring will stick in place
> You want a small amount of roughness to break up laminar action,adding turbulence is a good thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See, I would have thought the opposite. I would think that by allowing a quicker flow of coolant through the smoothened block surface, there would be a constant flow of cooler water, versus having internal turbulance to slow it down - causing higher temperatures.
> 
> ...Granted the coolant is still flowing, maybe there's more heat absorbsion into the water by slowing the flow with turbulance. Is that where you're going with this?
Click to expand...

A good read on laminar flow in laymans terms
http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/328742/laminar-flow

Also worth remembering,an irregular surface will have a greater surface area than a smooth surface for the same footprint,although to consider it as a performance factor is irrelevent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,use a smear of silicone grease and the o-ring will stick in place
> You want a small amount of roughness to break up laminar action,adding turbulence is a good thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok that's good to know and yeah I wouldn't plan on globbing it on since I don't do that w/ water pumps and such on cars since it can break off and cause damage to a w/p prop or a blockage in a system.
Click to expand...

The best method is get a blob between two fingers then run the ring thru them so the ring gets a shine then that should be enough.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol that's what I do on automotive gaskets (cooling system based ones)







really a lil RTV goes a loooong way


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A good read on laminar flow in laymans terms
> http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/328742/laminar-flow
> 
> Also worth remembering,an irregular surface will have a greater surface area than a smooth surface for the same footprint,although to consider it as a performance factor is irrelevent.


Thanks for the link... Okay then, it's settled. I'll just leave the two blocks the way they are and skip the water channel polishing.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> On my iPhone so the link may be a mobile one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW-HadrjjIU&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DQW-HadrjjIU&nomobile=1
> 
> Jeffinslaw


That looked incredibly easy to do. 4 items (sandpaper, cloth, solivent, water), and a little elbow grease is all it takes.

Since I bought the wrong blocks for my Titans and there's no way I'm going to return them, I'm thinking about creatively plumbing one of the bridge links with a few EK fittings. I just need to make sure I'm buying the right bridge link to fit an R4E (dual parallel).


----------



## tecuarenta

I want to place my external radiator "a little" further from the desk. Will 8 meters of tube be a problem? I am running dual D5's in serial.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I just bought a grinding tool on Sunday, so I'll give it a try with a polishing compound and polishing bit. I'll try it on the outer pockets first, where I won't have to open the block up.


I don't suggest using any machine to polish acrylic. Very good chance you'll score or burn the acrylic. Do it by hand.


----------



## ChrisB17




----------



## baby6packs

I just build up my Water Cooling PC few days ago. Here is my rig.


----------



## Aphid

Update with some pics, now with SLI!






Try to ignore the dust haha, but got any suggestions to tidy it further?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't suggest using any machine to polish acrylic. Very good chance you'll score or burn the acrylic. Do it by hand.


After seeing the video in Jeffinslaw's post above, I agree. It literally took the guy (in the video) just minutes to sand the block down by hand. Hands down, that's definitely the way to go.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> After seeing the video in Jeffinslaw's post above, I agree. It literally took the guy (in the video) just minutes to sand the block down by hand. Hands down, that's definitely the way to go.


I wanted mine to look like glass so it took quite a bit longer than that. I probably spent 2 hours on each GPU block but that includes about 30 minutes on just polishing up the nickel to a mirror finish.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-17-3.jpg.html


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wanted mine to look like glass so it took quite a bit longer than that. I probably spent 2 hours on each GPU block but that includes about 30 minutes on just polishing up the nickel to a mirror finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-17-3.jpg.html


Do you think you could do a guide (with pictures) on how you did yours?







I as long with a few other people would greatly appreciate it!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Do you think you could do a guide (with pictures) on how you did yours?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I as long with a few other people would greatly appreciate it!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


When EK releases their GTX780 Classified block I'll do one up.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wanted mine to look like glass so it took quite a bit longer than that. I probably spent 2 hours on each GPU block but that includes about 30 minutes on just polishing up the nickel to a mirror finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-17-3.jpg.html


That... Is... INSANE!! At first glance, I thought I was looking at transparent blocks. You did an incredible job with your polishing.


----------



## tiborrr12

Incredible feat. Congrats!


----------



## 3930sabertooth

Hi quick question, I see a lot of people have put a Phobya extreme 200mm rad in the front of their 650D cases, so i ordered one, but have just read that its a V2 and has dif dimensions, does anyone know if it will still fit in the front of a 650D?

Thanks


----------



## bomberjun

Done installing the radiators in the 900D.
Black Ice SR1 480 Raidiator Top Panel
Black Ice SR1 480 Raidiator Bottom Cage
Black Ice SR1 240 Radiator Bottom Cage
Black Ice SR1 120 Radiator Back
Black Ice Stealth GT 360 Radiator Front Panel
14pcs of SP Quiet Ed. on push config

I'd like to thank again BNEGATIVE for his inputs. You saved me a lot of fans and space.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Nice Bomberjun!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

No problem bomberjun.

XSPC are on a roll!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Looks great apart from the giant xspc logo. Hopefully that's removable.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> When EK releases their GTX780 Classified block I'll do one up.


I would love to catch that guide. Keep us posted.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That... Is... INSANE!! At first glance, I thought I was looking at transparent blocks. You did an incredible job with your polishing.


Lol, I thought this too. Sorcery!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No problem bomberjun.
> 
> XSPC are on a roll!


What board is this block for?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> What board is this block for?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I believe it is for the Z87 Xpower and M Power

http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-other/z87-xpower-waterblock


----------



## neSSa

my little pc

















http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjBDeOBEAMs


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I believe it is for the Z87 Xpower and M Power
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-other/z87-xpower-waterblock


Only the XPower I believe: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21280/ex-blc-1533/XSPC_MSI_Z87_XPower_High_Performance_Liquid_Cooling_Motherboard_Block_.html


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> my little pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjBDeOBEAMs


Nice little rig you got there! I love that case. That sure is some FAT tubing! Almost looks like you just slipped it right over some compression fittings. lol


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> my little pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjBDeOBEAMs


Nice little rig! I'm all for going clampless when running barbs...but the way I do it, the tubing I buy is one size smaller than what the barbs are designed for. That way the tubing is super tight and secure. It looks like you bought tubing that's made to match that barb size? And the tubing slipped right on for ya...in which case, I would be a little worried about how secure that it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice little rig you got there! I love that case. That sure is some FAT tubing! Almost looks like you just slipped it right over some compression fittings. lol


Those are barbs.


----------



## neSSa

Thnx, for now works great









and new one


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Those are barbs.


Yeah I know. I was joking.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> Thnx, for now works great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and new one
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice photography!


----------



## Trolle BE

anyone got a suggestion of what more i can change on my pc?(pic is in my signature)


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> anyone got a suggestion of what more i can change on my pc?(pic is in my signature)


Put a water block on that gpu or at least a back plate.


----------



## Squashie

Get two more monitors or a 2nd graphics card.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> anyone got a suggestion of what more i can change on my pc?(pic is in my signature)


Moar rads


----------



## yanks8981

Dear water cooling gods,

I am looking to do a CPU only loop in my Bitfenix Prodigy and am unsure if I should go with DDC or D5. I am leaning towards D5, but I cannot decide between the Swiftech with speed control or the Swiftech PWM model. I am not sure how the PWM works on pumps exactly. Also, I was looking at this res/top to hang inside on the front of the case:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36034:5e5d2456803e6419918c6e814f827c3e

As for fittings, I was looking at these:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_365&products_id=37676

I've always used the XSPC radiators, but any other suggestions are welcome.

Any issues with these picks? Thanks!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No problem bomberjun.
> 
> XSPC are on a roll!


im sure you can buff it out...


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Dear water cooling gods,
> 
> I am looking to do a CPU only loop in my Bitfenix Prodigy and am unsure if I should go with DDC or D5. I am leaning towards D5, but I cannot decide between the Swiftech with speed control or the Swiftech PWM model. I am not sure how the PWM works on pumps exactly. Also, I was looking at this res/top to hang inside on the front of the case:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36034:5e5d2456803e6419918c6e814f827c3e
> 
> As for fittings, I was looking at these:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_365&products_id=37676
> 
> I've always used the XSPC radiators, but any other suggestions are welcome.
> 
> Any issues with these picks? Thanks!


No issues with the picks. For such a small case, I'd try to sway you towards higher FPI radiators (more fins=more surface area and heat capacity). If you have the extra money, I say go with a Black Ice radiator. Higher quality, more heat dissipation.

As for the pump, I'd also for the DDC for the sole reason that it has a smaller footprint, allowing you to put it in more places than the bulky D5. The PWM works the same way as PWM fans: the two PWM signal lines (green and blue) go to a motherboard header or PWM controler, while power for the pump is taken from a separate molex power connector (12V, GND).


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> No issues with the picks. For such a small case, I'd try to sway you towards higher FPI radiators (more fins=more surface area and heat capacity). If you have the extra money, I say go with a Black Ice radiator. Higher quality, more heat dissipation.
> 
> As for the pump, I'd also for the DDC for the sole reason that it has a smaller footprint, allowing you to put it in more places than the bulky D5. The PWM works the same way as PWM fans: the two PWM signal lines (green and blue) go to a motherboard header or PWM controler, while power for the pump is taken from a separate molex power connector (12V, GND).


How would this do?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=4537


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> my little pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjBDeOBEAMs


cool little rig. I'd probably switch the tube to clear and use blood red dye. But that's just me.


----------



## lowfat

Should be able to leak test / bleed tomorrow.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4048-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4049-1.jpg.html


----------



## szeged

Just started work on planning a build in a caselabs magnum sth10, heres what i got so far, all gonna be hard acrylic tubing, just thinking of two way sli titans for now, might throw in 4 way just because, but so far only two. Was thinking dual loops but im tired and dont want to spend the next hour planning it out







maybe tomorrow lol.

remember, very basic, half asleep planned out very very early design -



might get some crossflow rads instead to make some of the routing feel/look less weird, such as the tubing going across the front of the res.

let me know what you guys think. This build will get underway soon, just gotta wait for everywhere to get all the stuff i need in stock.

also, think i should go for an all plexi EK WB build? Or use some existing evga titan hydro coppers for the gpu blocks, with EK everything else, cpu ram and mobo.

suggestions, tips, criticism on the plan so far is very welcome.

ill update it to a better plan tomorrow when im not almost asleep in my chair.

theme will be blood red/black btw (i know, very overdone, but my last build log that was supposed to be black/red had to take a sudden stop due to work







)


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Should be able to leak test / bleed tomorrow.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4049-1.jpg.html


That looks delicious sir... Looking forward to seeing the end result.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just got a delivery of fittings. Should be able to get a lot done this weekend in my 690 III


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just got a delivery of fittings. Should be able to get a lot done this weekend in my 690 III


they are good fittings


----------



## DarthBaggins

ooh like the copper


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Get two more monitors or a 2nd graphics card.


was planning to add another card later this year
but watercooling the gpu's might be a bit to much for me








i was already scared enough to make this loop hehe


----------



## khemist

Well since my Titan died i got a lightning.





This is 100% temporary so excuse the crazy tubing, it's only until i get a block and then i will make it tidy again... i don't have my 120 rad in the top just now either.


----------



## kcuestag

What happened to your Titan? And are you running that 2500k + Lightning on just the 180x2 rad? Impressive.









Don't bother with a 120mm rad on the top as it'll breath hot air from the bottom rad, best thing you can do in the Raven 2 is get a 180x3 radiator like I did, it had awesome cooling cappabilities.


----------



## khemist

The Titan is dead, say no more.

The 120 rad will go back in just as soon as i get a block for the lightning, i'm actually going to be doing a MATX case next with an external XSPC ax480 rad + stand, i've already got that setup.


----------



## Trolle BE

Is that blue light shining against ur psu from the lightning or from ur mobo?


----------



## khemist

The motherboard, i like how it highlights the the Silverstone logo.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Well since my Titan died i got a lightning.


RMA the card. I lost 2 b/c of a leak and had new ones within the week replaced for only the cost of me shipping the cards. You seem to get better service with a Titan than other parts.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Well since my Titan died i got a lightning.
> 
> 
> 
> RMA the card. I lost 2 b/c of a leak and had new ones within the week replaced for only the cost of me shipping the cards. You seem to get better service with a Titan than other parts.
Click to expand...

For the cost,I would expect it to come with Drew Barrimore in lingerie...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For the cost,I would expect it to come with Drew Barrimore in lingerie...


I'll second that.







This is why I'm sticking with my GTX 680 Hydro Copper for now.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Well since my Titan died i got a lightning.
> 
> 
> 
> RMA the card. I lost 2 b/c of a leak and had new ones within the week replaced for only the cost of me shipping the cards. You seem to get better service with a Titan than other parts.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> For the cost,I would expect it to come with Drew Barrimore in lingerie...
Click to expand...

Lol!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Edit:
Spoilered, for those who don't approve.


----------



## Thrasher1016

RAWFUL.

I come here for technical information and opinions, not has-been actresses in terrible brassieres.









Thanks - T


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> RMA the card. I lost 2 b/c of a leak and had new ones within the week replaced for only the cost of me shipping the cards. You seem to get better service with a Titan than other parts.


\

At their price point, I would hope so


----------



## adriankiller

_hi all
some pictures from me_

date pic 07.21.13









spec


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



i7 3770K 4.8ghz - msi TF II gtx 580 1000- 2000 - 2200 ( for now ) avexir core 4x4 1600mhz - corsair d800 - samsung 840 p 128GB - segate 2x 1TB - bq p8 1000w



+movie if someone had a craving


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> RAWFUL.
> 
> I come here for technical information and opinions, not has-been actresses in terrible brassieres.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


You have something bad to say about Drew?

Leave the thread.


----------



## Bobbika

Nevermind me posting my rig


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have something bad to say about Drew?
> 
> Leave the thread.


Your favorite?
















Nothing bad, just not _my_ fav.

ON TOPIC:

Got my HWL Black Ice 280 and 360 radiators last night! Going in the 540 Air this weekend in preparation for the Haswell build!

Thanks - T


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> ON TOPIC:
> 
> Got my *HWL Black Ice 280 and 360 radiators* last night! Going in the 540 Air this weekend in preparation for the Haswell build!
> 
> Thanks - T


SR1s, Stealths , or Extremes?


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Just about to finalize my parts, someone please shout at me loudly if I'm missing anything, or if stuff wont work together !
> 
> CPU : EK Supremacy (Acetal + Nickel)
> Res/Pump :EK Bay DCP2.2 Combo Unit
> Rads : EK XTX 360 & XTC 140
> GPU's : EK FC680 Lightning with EK FC Bridge Dual Serial
> Fittings : 10x EK CSQ 10/13 Nickel
> Tubing : 5m Primochill LRT


I think my question got lost, or no one here likes me









Another question actually, how well does a pump work on a fan controller ? Not sure if I'll need the full flow or not. May need to get an upgraded FC if I'm planning on adding the pump to it too !


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I think my question got lost, or no one here likes me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question actually, how well does a pump work on a fan controller ? Not sure if I'll need the full flow or not. May need to get an upgraded FC if I'm planning on adding the pump to it too !


Posts can get lost easily here, especially if hot topic or a bunch of pics get posted...for specific questions, it is often better to start separate threads

But, to answer your questions:
Your parts look ok. If you can fit more rads, then I'd try to squeeze more in. What fans do you plan on using on those rads?

What fan controller do you have or which are you looking at?


----------



## stickg1

Filling with Mayhems Pastel Ice White today, I love it!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> SR1s, Stealths , or Extremes?


Stealth, both. Want to do P/P, so needed a little bit more room, or I woulda gone for Xtremes.

Of note, the B.I. 360 I got is the cross-flow version, just for kicks and giggles... Still a good option?

Thanks - T


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have something bad to say about Drew?
> 
> Leave the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your favorite?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing bad, just not _my_ fav.
> 
> ON TOPIC:
> 
> Got my HWL Black Ice 280 and 360 radiators last night! Going in the 540 Air this weekend in preparation for the Haswell build!
> 
> Thanks - T
Click to expand...

I would do things to her you wouldnt do to a farm yard animal.....


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobbika*
> 
> Nevermind me posting my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Filling with Mayhems Pastel Ice White today, I love it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would do things to her you wouldnt do to a farm yard animal.....


You caught me, I wouldn't even







to the calves.. let alone the one nut bull.









Seriously it tried to kill me.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Posts can get lost easily here, especially if hot topic or a bunch of pics get posted...for specific questions, it is often better to start separate threads
> 
> But, to answer your questions:
> Your parts look ok. If you can fit more rads, then I'd try to squeeze more in. What fans do you plan on using on those rads?
> 
> What fan controller do you have or which are you looking at?


My thread got lost too









I dont have any space to fit more rads, since I really want to keep it clean looking, and stay in the top section of the case, using fans I already have so its going to be push pull AF140's on the 140 rad, and the 360 will have either push or pull SP120's, since I want to keep it all internal, and running push pull I'd run out of space.

As far as fan controllers go, I have a Scythe Kaze Master, but the screen is broken so I think its time for a change anyway. Lamptron FC6 will replace it I think. Open to suggestions on that one though.

Thanks for the help !


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> my little pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjBDeOBEAMs


I like that case, what is it ?


----------



## Sunreeper

It's the compact splash


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> RMA the card. I lost 2 b/c of a leak and had new ones within the week replaced for only the cost of me shipping the cards. You seem to get better service with a Titan than other parts.


It was thanks to the Aquacomputer active backplate, leaking from where the heatpipe comes out, i've sent for rma so will see what happens.

The backplate went in the bin and then a standoff broke on the actual block so that went in the bin also, i was slightly mad.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> It was thanks to the Aquacomputer active backplate, leaking from where the heatpipe comes out, i've sent for rma so will see what happens.
> 
> The backplate went in the bin and then a standoff broke on the actual block so that went in the bin also, i was slightly mad.


Why not ask Aquacomputer for compensation (AKA replacement for your new card) for the damage caused?

I wouldn't just let it go, unless of course you have a tree which grows money in your garden, which I wish I had.


----------



## khemist

Too late now, rubbish has been taken away, wont use the stuff again though is all i will say.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I like that case, what is it ?


Good question. I'd like to know as well. To me it looks like a modded Fractal Design Core 1000 or something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> It's the compact splash


I don't think that is the compact splash. CS is mITX form factor and mounts the power supply in a complete different place/orientation.


----------



## WebsterXC

Alright so I need you guys' help. I'm in need of a new color for my rig, and I've narrowed my choices down to two. I love my LD build to death, but the color scheme is getting very old, very quick. I'm debating two different re-colorings, which would look best to you guys?

White/Gold: Would be gold plated copper tubing, EK blocks plated gold, polished EK blocks, white fluid and new fittings. This would be the more expensive route since I'd be using 24K gold for most of the things except the tubing (tubing would be anodized).

White/Green: Clear acrylic tubing, frosted acrylic blocks and tops, resleeved cables, Mayhems "Apple" pastel, Primochill white fittings. This would be the lesser expensive route.

Pictures for reference (rest are in my sig):


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey guys another random question.

People who use slights in their builds what do you all use as mid plate fittings? Meaning something that fits in the slight and accepts g1/4 male on both sides. I was going to use a bitspower fillport but the actual fitting isn't long enough to go through the slight


----------



## fakeblood

I used Bitspower pass through fittings without any issues


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Hey guys another random question.
> 
> People who use slights in their builds what do you all use as mid plate fittings? Meaning something that fits in the slight and accepts g1/4 male on both sides. I was going to use a bitspower fillport but the actual fitting isn't long enough to go through the slight


Edit: didn't read all the way down :/


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Hey guys another random question.
> 
> People who use slights in their builds what do you all use as mid plate fittings? Meaning something that fits in the slight and accepts g1/4 male on both sides. I was going to use a bitspower fillport but the actual fitting isn't long enough to go through the slight


Aquatuning sells a longer one that should fit. I think it sold under their house brand.


----------



## Beaker076

After peoples recommendations / experience on External Rads & Pumps

I'm looking to do a small mATXt build, and cooling a Single GPU (most likely a GTX780) and Haswell CPU (i4770k)

I've decided to go with an external RAD setup such as a Phoyba Nova 1080 or a Watercool MO-RA3 and have a single set of fans running at 5v.

The Rad would be up to a max of 6ft / 1.8meters away from the PC (maybe less).

Would a single D5 be suitable? I'm wanting to run as low speeds etc to reduce noise.

I've read that the MO-RA3 is fairly restrictive. Would I be better off with Dual D5's in Serial config or something like a Single or Dual DDC setup such as a Swiftech MCP35B or MCP35X2 etc.

People's thoughts??


----------



## lowfat

It will be sufficient.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beaker076*
> 
> After peoples recommendations / experience on External Rads & Pumps
> 
> I'm looking to do a small mATXt build, and cooling a Single GPU (most likely a GTX780) and Haswell CPU (i4770k)
> 
> I've decided to go with an external RAD setup such as a Phoyba Nova 1080 or a Watercool MO-RA3 and have a single set of fans running at 5v.
> 
> The Rad would be up to a max of 6ft / 1.8meters away from the PC (maybe less).
> 
> Would a single D5 be suitable? I'm wanting to run as low speeds etc to reduce noise.
> 
> I've read that the MO-RA3 is fairly restrictive. Would I be better off with Dual D5's in Serial config or something like a Single or Dual DDC setup such as a Swiftech MCP35B or MCP35X2 etc.
> 
> People's thoughts??


Ive done exactly what you are planning, running CPU/GPU/MORA-3 with a single D5 and have zero issues.


----------



## Beaker076

@fakeblood, I've been following your build over the past few weeks Awesome btw looks great. I see you mounted the RAD to the side of your desk.

Would you estimate that it's roughly 2 to 3 feet in tubing length from your system to the Rad?

Thanks for the info.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Hey guys another random question.
> 
> People who use slights in their builds what do you all use as mid plate fittings? Meaning something that fits in the slight and accepts g1/4 male on both sides. I was going to use a bitspower fillport but the actual fitting isn't long enough to go through the slight


That's for a TJ07, right?
Make sure you really need/want to run tubing through the midpanel area before you commit to drilling holes in the slight.
I was able to completely avoid running my loop through the midpanel and slight, it wasn't that difficult to route the tubing through the front bay of the TJ07 instead.


----------



## fakeblood

Thanks Beaker

I order 3 meters of ZMT from EK and still have over a meter to spare. The run of tubing is excessive for what I actually needed


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Good question. I'd like to know as well. To me it looks like a modded Fractal Design Core 1000 or something.
> I don't think that is the compact splash. CS is mITX form factor and mounts the power supply in a complete different place/orientation.


Good call on that one, NHS ! it is the FD core 1000, he's slotted a new cover, makes it look like that Compact Splash's front. But you can see that neSSa's case has the same panel cutouts as the Core 1000. Combine the build with photo skills and you've got a sharp dressed case











compare it to ekg84's Core 1000 build


----------



## stickg1




----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Alright so I need you guys' help. I'm in need of a new color for my rig, and I've narrowed my choices down to two. I love my LD build to death, but the color scheme is getting very old, very quick. I'm debating two different re-colorings, which would look best to you guys?
> 
> White/Gold: Would be gold plated copper tubing, EK blocks plated gold, polished EK blocks, white fluid and new fittings. This would be the more expensive route since I'd be using 24K gold for most of the things except the tubing (tubing would be anodized).
> 
> White/Green: Clear acrylic tubing, frosted acrylic blocks and tops, resleeved cables, Mayhems "Apple" pastel, Primochill white fittings. This would be the lesser expensive route.
> 
> Pictures for reference (rest are in my sig):


If I may give my opinion....

I think white/gold would be INCREDIBLY hard to pull off, as you'd have to walk that insanely narrow line between "what gold?" and "So where's its spinners at, yo?"...

White/Green, well, there have been a lot of these lately, and I think your unique case deserves a more unique color scheme.

I think that purple could actually look fantastic in your build, but since you've already got the purple Monsoon fittings, what about BLACK liquid???


----------



## ginger_nuts

OK So I have a slight problem, _MAYBE?_

I ordered XSPC 3/8"-5/8" tubing which is to be used on Alphacool 16/10 compression fittings. (thought they would be fine :SOURCE: )

Now!!!! upon test fitting, the outer ring cuts into the tubing, and I am unable to do the outer ring up any more then half way.

Should I be worried ? or Do I just put up with the look ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> OK So I have a slight problem, _MAYBE?_
> 
> I ordered XSPC 3/8"-5/8" tubing which is to be used on Alphacool 16/10 compression fittings. (thought they would be fine :SOURCE: )
> 
> Now!!!! upon test fitting, the outer ring cuts into the tubing, and I am unable to do the outer ring up any more then half way.
> 
> Should I be worried ? or Do I just put up with the look ?


I've used alphacool compression fifttings w/ 3/8x5/8 tube before. All tube can have subtle variances in size. I know my first roll of adv. LRT was great but this new on is uber tight. Also, 5/8 ~ 15.89mm so the tube's od is slight smaller then the locking ring.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Alright so I need you guys' help. I'm in need of a new color for my rig, and I've narrowed my choices down to two. I love my LD build to death, but the color scheme is getting very old, very quick. I'm debating two different re-colorings, which would look best to you guys?
> 
> White/Gold: Would be gold plated copper tubing, EK blocks plated gold, polished EK blocks, white fluid and new fittings. This would be the more expensive route since I'd be using 24K gold for most of the things except the tubing (tubing would be anodized).
> 
> White/Green: Clear acrylic tubing, frosted acrylic blocks and tops, resleeved cables, Mayhems "Apple" pastel, Primochill white fittings. This would be the lesser expensive route.
> 
> Pictures for reference (rest are in my sig):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I may give my opinion....
> 
> *I think white/gold would be INCREDIBLY hard to pull off*, as you'd have to walk that insanely narrow line between "what gold?" and "So where's its spinners at, yo?"...
> 
> White/Green, well, there have been a lot of these lately, and I think your unique case deserves a more unique color scheme.
> 
> I think that purple could actually look fantastic in your build, but since you've already got the purple Monsoon fittings, what about BLACK liquid???
Click to expand...

Why?

Copper and white go very well,cant see gold being much different.....


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> OK So I have a slight problem, _MAYBE?_
> 
> I ordered XSPC 3/8"-5/8" tubing which is to be used on Alphacool 16/10 compression fittings. (thought they would be fine :SOURCE: )
> 
> Now!!!! upon test fitting, the outer ring cuts into the tubing, and I am unable to do the outer ring up any more then half way.
> 
> Should I be worried ? or Do I just put up with the look ?


i had that with the some of the monsoon compression fittings, i just put it down to been real tight!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Cheers for the help Wermad and Kingchris









Tomorrow I will finish it.


----------



## kingchris

looking good GN, what colour tubing you using.


----------



## niveK

Here's my LD-V8


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> looking good GN, what colour tubing you using.


XSPC Clear UV Blue. With Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> XSPC Clear UV Blue. With Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green


colours sound as mixed as mine, cant wait for the pics.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have something bad to say about Drew?
> 
> Leave the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your favorite?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing bad, just not _my_ fav.
> 
> ON TOPIC:
> 
> Got my HWL Black Ice 280 and 360 radiators last night! Going in the 540 Air this weekend in preparation for the Haswell build!
> 
> Thanks - T
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *I would do things to her you wouldnt do to a farm yard animal.....*
Click to expand...

I'm intrigued . . . .

Do go on . . .

Diva


----------



## neSSa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I like that case, what is it ?


Tnx, that is Fractal Designe Core 1000


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would do things to her you wouldnt do to a farm yard animal.....


So you would grill her until well done? If so then you are correct... I like my meat closer to medium thank you.


----------



## Deano12345

Finalised all my parts, just gotta wait till Monday to order ! Then the wait till my birthday begins (5th of next month)









OT : Rare is the only way to eat steak/burgers/etc


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have something bad to say about Drew?
> 
> Leave the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your favorite?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing bad, just not _my_ fav.
> 
> ON TOPIC:
> 
> Got my HWL Black Ice 280 and 360 radiators last night! Going in the 540 Air this weekend in preparation for the Haswell build!
> 
> Thanks - T
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *I would do things to her you wouldnt do to a farm yard animal.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm intrigued . . . .
> 
> Do go on . . .
> 
> Diva
Click to expand...

You are making me blush Darlene,stop it.

I have a gooey bit for Drew.....


----------



## GhostDog99

Juts swapped my 680s for some 780s 

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6380.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6386.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6376.jpg.html


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Juts swapped my 680s for some 780s
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6380.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6386.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6376.jpg.html


So good







but the things it makes me want to do to those cables...


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> So good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the things it makes me want to do to those cables...


thanks mate









i know the cables are not 100% but that is because im going to brad tham whan i have some free time to black and rad not just rad
than i will put in the extra time so the cabels are 100%


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Because its funny,I thought i should post this too.



EPIC form factor v the pocket rocket


----------



## MetallicAcid

Do want.

MetallicAcid


----------



## lemniscate

guys, if I plan to water-cool my corsair 540 case (spec in sig) with one 240mm and one 360 rads, which one(s) would be best?

I was thinking about getting the alphacool ST30 series, but I wonder if the low fpi count would be sufficient to cool an i7 3820 and two 780s under full load.. I'm now looking at black ice GTS rads. btw I'm using corsair SP120 high performance fans on a controller (~800rpm-2200rpm).

I think I'm going push-pull, so the max thickness should be around 30-40mm.

thanks..


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> guys, if I plan to water-cool my corsair 540 case (spec in sig) with one 240mm and one 360 rads, which one(s) would be best?
> 
> I was thinking about getting the alphacool ST30 series, but I wonder if the low fpi count would be sufficient to cool an i7 3820 and two 780s under full load.. I'm now looking at black ice GTS rads. btw I'm using corsair SP120 high performance fans on a controller (~800rpm-2200rpm).
> 
> I think I'm going push-pull, so the max thickness should be around 30-40mm.
> 
> thanks..


If you are looking for slim rads for your billed i would say the XSPC EX and the Alphacool ST30 series are the best slim rads out right now

the XSPC EX has a higher fpi but thay are both really good rads

i have an XSPC EX240 Radiator + Phobya XTREME 200 Radiator cooling an i7 3770k @ 4.6GHz and 2 evga GTX 680s FTW in SLI and it is good
so i think a 360 + 240 will be good cooling for you and your rig


----------



## neSSa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because its funny,I thought i should post this too.
> 
> 
> 
> EPIC form factor v the pocket rocket


Grate, That photo reminds me of my photo, which I compared the size of the components











GPU is 6990


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> If you are looking for slim rads for your billed i would say the XSPC EX and the Alphacool ST30 series are the best slim rads out right now
> 
> the XSPC EX has a higher fpi but thay are both really good rads
> 
> i have an XSPC EX240 Radiator + Phobya XTREME 200 Radiator cooling an i7 3770k @ 4.6GHz and 2 evga GTX 680s FTW in SLI and it is good
> so i think a 360 + 240 will be good cooling for you and your rig


I see.. what do you think about the one I mentioned (black ice GTS)?

I checked XSPC rads, and it seems like their new line is the AX series, how do they compare to the EX ones?

thanks, +rep..


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Juts swapped my 680s for some 780s
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6380.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6386.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6376.jpg.html


Hands down one of the nicest builds i've seen here in a while.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> I see.. what do you think about the one I mentioned (black ice GTS)?
> 
> I checked XSPC rads, and it seems like their new line is the AX series, how do they compare to the EX ones?
> 
> thanks, +rep..


The black ice GTS i never had and never seen a review of it but i know it has a very high fpi but it is prrty old rad
i have the black ice GTX and i can say it is one of the best rads ever but you need 1850 RPM + for that rad to really shine

the AX is the same as the EX in performance but the AX can come a part so it is good if you wan too pant the rad and thing like that
but it is thiker than the EX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Hands down one of the nicest builds i've seen here in a while.


Thanks mate


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> The black ice GTS i never had and never seen a review of it but i know it has a very high fpi but it is prrty old rad
> i have the black ice GTX and i can say it is one of the best rads ever but you need 1850 RPM + for that rad to really shine
> 
> the AX is the same as the EX in performance but the AX can come a part so it is good if you wan too pant the rad and thing like that
> but it is thiker than the EX
> Thanks mate


I see... thanks a lot.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Good call on that one, NHS ! it is the FD core 1000, he's slotted a new cover, makes it look like that Compact Splash's front. But you can see that neSSa's case has the same panel cutouts as the Core 1000. Combine the build with photo skills and you've got a sharp dressed case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> compare it to ekg84's Core 1000 build
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1647366/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


Thanks bud.







Oddly enough I have researched cases more than any other component. I care way too much about aesthetics.









I'm still waiting for that perfect mini ITX case to release! Haven't found one that I adore yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why?
> 
> Copper and white go very well,cant see gold being much different.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think your mod is the exception B Neg. I don't think just anyone can make it work the way you did. If I had been told about the colors to be used in this build(without seeing pictures) I would have assumed it would come out looking like crap. You have an eye for aesthetics that many don't have.

I see so many builds on here with such potential to look amazing but a few components and wrong choices make them look just average. You seem to always come out with the perfect balance.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I think your mod is the exception B Neg. I don't think just anyone can make it work the way you did. If I had been told about the colors to be used in this build(without seeing pictures) I would have assumed it would come out looking like crap. You have an eye for aesthetics that many don't have.
> 
> I see so many builds on here with such potential to look amazing but a few components and wrong choices make them look just average. You seem to always come out with the perfect balance.


I have to agree with this whole heartedly. B Negative is the bomb-diggity when it comes to internal component arrangements - design, and color scheme themes.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I think your mod is the exception B Neg. I don't think just anyone can make it work the way you did. If I had been told about the colors to be used in this build(without seeing pictures) I would have assumed it would come out looking like crap. You have an eye for aesthetics that many don't have.
> 
> I see so many builds on here with such potential to look amazing but a few components and wrong choices make them look just average. You seem to always come out with the perfect balance.


This.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Juts swapped my 680s for some 780s
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6380.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6386.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6376.jpg.html


Just scrap that SLI bridge sticker off already!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Just scrap that SLI bridge sticker off already!


Then Plasti-Dip it. Clean SLI bridges ftw.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-20-2.jpg.html


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Then Plasti-Dip it. Clean SLI bridges ftw.


ColdZero ftw!


----------



## Daredevil 720

How would the Phobya G-Changer Xtreme Nova 1080 V2 compare to 3x Alphacool NexXxos UT60 360?

I'm considering going external and I'm trying to decide how to do it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> How would the Phobya G-Changer Xtreme Nova 1080 V2 compare to 3x Alphacool NexXxos UT60 360?
> 
> I'm considering going external and I'm trying to decide how to do it.


Either one is extremely more then necessary. One UT60 360 can run your loop with great temps. Why not the regular NOva 1080 which is less then half the cost of the V2? put the extra money towards a 3rd 670








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> ColdZero ftw!










James, you're giving my wallet a heart-attack









Can't wait for the RC build log


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Then Plasti-Dip it. Clean SLI bridges ftw.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-20-2.jpg.html


Hmmmmmmmm...........I am thinking that I may do this. The crossfire bridges i got are a bit of an eye sore

Good idea


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Just scrap that SLI bridge sticker off already!


Lol mate
I was thinking of getting one
Of evgas Bling SLI bridges
Just whiting for it to be in stock


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> How would the Phobya G-Changer Xtreme Nova 1080 V2 compare to 3x Alphacool NexXxos UT60 360?
> 
> I'm considering going external and I'm trying to decide how to do it.


Well obviously the Nova's already put together in a single unit, so it's more plug and play. But if you don't mind rigging it up yourself, i would definitely think the 3 x UT60's would perform better.
But if you're goin external anyway, why not go for the Nova 1260 or 3 x Monsta's =D

BTW, I completely agree with Wermad that it would be overkill. But it seems like that's what you were goin for. I've been wanting to see some1 using one of the Xtreme Nova 1260's

On another note, I never woulda thought to Plasti-Dip an SLI Bridge. It's good to know that it won't mess with the electronics


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Either one is extremely more then necessary. One UT60 360 can run your loop with great temps. Why not the regular NOva 1080 which is less then half the cost of the V2? put the extra money towards a 3rd 670


I doubt one UT60 360 could give me great temps with the GPUs under water. Currently with my AX240 I'm getting 85-90C (summer temps) on P95 and that's with just the CPU in the loop. I know there's a point where more rad space gives you negligible temp drops but I'm far from it as my tubing gets quite warm, meaning my air-water delta has much room for improvement.

I couldn't find any comparison between the old one and the G-Changer V2, but a newer design has to be better. Please do tell if you know anything about this.

Also a 3rd 670 isn't quite in my plans. The 2GB of VRAM on these cards makes me want to upgrade..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well obviously the Nova's already put together in a single unit, so it's more plug and play. But if you don't mind rigging it up yourself, i would definitely think the 3 x UT60's would perform better.
> But if you're goin external anyway, why not go for the Nova 1260 or 3 x Monsta's =D
> 
> BTW, I completely agree with Wermad that it would be overkill. But it seems like that's what you were goin for. I've been wanting to see some1 using one of the Xtreme Nova 1260's


Three UT60s would be quite more expensive, monstas even more so. The only reason I would go with them is if I were to buy a Caselabs case to go internal again without buying new rads (highly unlikely) or if the performance difference was worth it which from what it seems it isn't. I just wanted to know if the quality and performance of the Nova is close to that of the UT60s to see if it's a solid rad.

The Nova 1260 is tempting but I would have a limited options on fans there I guess.


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why?
> 
> Copper and white go very well,cant see gold being much different.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Psh. Now you are just showing off.







Looks fantastic.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I doubt one UT60 360 could give me great temps with the GPUs under water. Currently with my AX240 I'm getting 85-90C (summer temps) on P95 and that's with just the CPU in the loop. I know there's a point where more rad space gives you negligible temp drops but I'm far from it as my tubing gets quite warm, meaning my air-water delta has much room for improvement.
> 
> I couldn't find any comparison between the old one and the G-Changer V2, but a newer design has to be better. Please do tell if you know anything about this.
> 
> Also a 3rd 670 isn't quite in my plans. The 2GB of VRAM on these cards makes me want to upgrade..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


time to delid







Once you delid you should drop a good 20-30c. Keplers aren't that hot so a single UT 60 360 will give you good temps. So three won't give you much of a gain. I would go w/ the nova v1 (45mm thick). i didn't find a difference running three monsta vs one monsta in a loop w/ four gpu(s) and a cpu.

2gb is still pretty good for 1080. IF you make the jump to Surround, the 2gb may hold you back a bit but you'll most likely run out of gpu power first. A 3rd would give you icing on the cake for a single 1080p monitor maxing out a lot of things. We still have some guys in the Surround club running 2gb keplers without any issues as long as you tone down some settings. Even with my triple 3gb 780s, I don't break more then 2gb in most games.

I'm going to delid my Haswell as soon I get it test it. No way I'm putting up w/ 80-90c. Intel, you fudged up on IB and Haswell


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> time to delid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you delid you should drop a good 20-30c. Keplers aren't that hot so a single UT 60 360 will give you good temps. So three won't give you much of a gain. I would go w/ the nova v1 (45mm thick). i didn't find a difference running three monsta vs one monsta in a loop w/ four gpu(s) and a cpu.
> 
> 2gb is still pretty good for 1080. IF you make the jump to Surround, the 2gb may hold you back a bit but you'll most likely run out of gpu power first. A 3rd would give you icing on the cake for a single 1080p monitor maxing out a lot of things. We still have some guys in the Surround club running 2gb keplers without any issues as long as you tone down some settings. Even with my triple 3gb 780s, I don't break more then 2gb in most games.
> 
> I'm going to delid my Haswell as soon I get it test it. No way I'm putting up w/ 80-90c. Intel, you fudged up on IB and Haswell


Already delidded, running an OC of 4.8GHz at 1.375V.









Now that I get to think of it It's indeed quite overkill to have a rad space of 1320 (Nova 1080 + AX240) for any system I could ever afford. Maybe I should go a step back and reconsider.

Adding a single UT60/Monsta 360 to my loop would probably be the best. If I'm not satisfied with the temps I can always add one more, but not a third one as I would never need it. This still keeps me on the Nova V2's price level, _if_ I add a second one. I also get to keep the flexibility of going internal again if I ever get a new case.

Regarding VRAM I guess I'll wait a little more for the next-gen games to arrive. BF4 showed some ridiculous VRAM usage on the alpha so we'll have to see if this changes. Adding a 3rd GPU would give me more horsepower, meaning there's more possibility to get bottlenecked by the VRAM. Thinking about selling them and getting an 880 Classified/Lightning when it comes out. More VRAM, no multi-GPU hassle, less watercooling costs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Already delidded, running an OC of 4.8GHz at 1.375V.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I get to think of it It's indeed quite overkill to have a rad space of 1320 (Nova 1080 + AX240) for any system I could ever afford. Maybe I should go a step back and reconsider.
> 
> Adding a single UT60/Monsta 360 to my loop would probably be the best. If I'm not satisfied with the temps I can always add one more, but not a third one as I would never need it. This still keeps me on the Nova V2's price level, _if_ I add a second one. I also get to keep the flexibility of going internal again if I ever get a new case.
> 
> Regarding VRAM I guess I'll wait a little more for the next-gen games to arrive. BF4 showed some ridiculous VRAM usage on the alpha so we'll have to see if this changes. Adding a 3rd GPU would give me more horsepower, meaning there's more possibility to get bottlenecked by the VRAM. Thinking about selling them and getting an 880 Classified/Lightning when it comes out. More VRAM, no multi-GPU hassle, less watercooling costs.


Wow, you reaching that much???? Seems a bit high for 4.8 and delidded.

Anyways, I had a 690 ii w/ an RX240 at the bottom, and RS240 and the top and an RS120 in the rear. Had no issues cooling three 470s and a SB cpu







.

Keep the AX240, add a UT60 240, and an AX120 for the rear


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Then Plasti-Dip it. Clean SLI bridges ftw.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-20-2.jpg.html


Sounds like a plan... I'll definitely keep it in mind for my build. The fewer the distractions (brand names), the better.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> guys, if I plan to water-cool my corsair 540 case (spec in sig) with one 240mm and one 360 rads, which one(s) would be best?
> 
> I was thinking about getting the alphacool ST30 series, but I wonder if the low fpi count would be sufficient to cool an i7 3820 and two 780s under full load.. I'm now looking at black ice GTS rads. btw I'm using corsair SP120 high performance fans on a controller (~800rpm-2200rpm).
> 
> I think I'm going push-pull, so the max thickness should be around 30-40mm.
> 
> thanks..


I have GTS 360 & EX 240 cooling my 3820 & one GPU. They performed well with SP120s running at 70%. @4.8GHz, I get 48 - 51C delta (difference between hottest core & ambient) when CPU fully loaded with P95. 35 - 38C delta when gaming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, you reaching that much???? Seems a bit high for 4.8 and delidded.


Sounds about right since he mentioned "summer temps".


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Sounds about right since he mentioned "summer temps".


I'm in summer temps too (~30-32c ambient). 80-90c seems too high for a delided IB especially at 4.8. I'll have check this out when i delid my cpu. Even my old 2700k @ 5.0 barely teases the 80s. This same cpu ran usually at 4.8 and temps stuck in the 60s.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpm666*
> 
> Ira is the king of function/form.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm STILL working on completing mine!
> 
> Sys1 - GTZ, 2x355's w/XSPC tops, 2xMCR320's, (now) 1xXSPC 4870X2 Razor FC
> 
> Sys2 - GT, 2x355's w/XSPC tops, 2xMCR220's, 2x3870's w/EK 3870 FC's


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm in summer temps too (~30-32c ambient). 80-90c seems too high for a delided IB especially at 4.8. I'll have check this out when i delid my cpu. Even my old 2700k @ 5.0 barely teases the 80s. This same cpu ran usually at 4.8 and temps stuck in the 60s.


I was thinking between 35 - 36C ambient. I read summer temperature in Greece can go up to 40s Celsius.

My 3820 @4.8GHz in 36C ambient, hottest core is 87C with P95 (GTS 360 + EX 240 & SP120s in mid-range speed).


----------



## ginger_nuts

So I have started to leak check everything on my new build









But the pumps (Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic 12 Volt ) are very noisy, at a full 12v, at 5v they are only just turning.

I am wanting to know how can I run them at 7v or 9v *without* a controller?

Cheers for any help


----------



## ledzepp3

What I did to control fans is use a Bitspower X-Station, and some ModMyToys splitter PCB's to hook up multiple devices









-Zepp


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So I have started to leak check everything on my new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the pumps (Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic 12 Volt ) are very noisy, at a full 12v, at 5v they are only just turning.
> 
> I am wanting to know how can I run them at 7v or 9v *without* a controller?
> 
> Cheers for any help


You could wire up a 7V circut:

http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/137

Or purchase an "extension" with a resistor:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1137/cab-67/FrozenCPU_3-pin_12V_to_9V_Power_Lead.html

Or purchase resistors locally and wire up a small extension yourself to bring the power down. You''d have to do some math on which resistor to purchase. Unfortunately I have no business doing math in my current state of mind, so another member will have to pick up where I left off. You do have to use Ohm's Law (V=I*R).


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> You could wire up a 7V circut:
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/137
> 
> Or purchase an "extension" with a resistor:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1137/cab-67/FrozenCPU_3-pin_12V_to_9V_Power_Lead.html
> 
> Or purchase resistors locally and wire up a small extension yourself to bring the power down. You''d have to do some math on which resistor to purchase. Unfortunately I have no business doing math in my current state of mind, so another member will have to pick up where I left off. You do have to use Ohm's Law (V=I*R).


I tried that 7v trick, but the PSU seems to sense a short and trips immediately. I also found one of those 9v cables from Noctua (just laying around), and when I used that, the same happened.









Would it make a difference running them of the same molex plug as I am?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Then Plasti-Dip it. Clean SLI bridges ftw.
> 
> 
> 
> ColdZero ftw!
Click to expand...











Indeed.


----------



## DoktorTerror

i add


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, you reaching that much???? Seems a bit high for 4.8 and delidded.
> 
> Anyways, I had a 690 ii w/ an RX240 at the bottom, and RS240 and the top and an RS120 in the rear. Had no issues cooling three 470s and a SB cpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Keep the AX240, add a UT60 240, and an AX120 for the rear


I had a 10C temp drop after delidding using just Gelid GC Extreme, then after adding CLU (on both sides) I got another 10C lower. Overall 15-20C. Not enough to put me on the "cool" side.

IMO 120 sized rads are way too cost inefficient. Especially for the price of the AX120 you could buy a good 240 radiator. So I must say no to that one. Also I don't think I've got the clearance needed for a 240 radiator on the bottom, since I'm getting a Be Quiet Dark Power Pro P10 unit which is 190mm long. I recently went through much trouble with PSUs and I want the most silent one I can get, no matter the cost.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I was thinking between 35 - 36C ambient. I read summer temperature in Greece can go up to 40s Celsius.
> 
> My 3820 @4.8GHz in 36C ambient, hottest core is 87C with P95 (GTS 360 + EX 240 & SP120s in mid-range speed).


While such temps are common here in the summer, the temps I mentioned were measured in a 30-35C environment.

I sometimes wonder if I can fix the temps by reapplying the CLU, but I've done that multiple times getting worse temps most of the time. I think I'll go direct-die once I get some smaller tubing and a few angled fittings to decrease the stress on the waterblock due to tubing pull. I've been eyeballing this Naked Ivy kit for quite some time now.


----------



## Deano12345

Will need one of those ColdZero bridges too. This club is costing me money !


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So I have started to leak check everything on my new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the pumps (Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic 12 Volt ) are very noisy, at a full 12v, at 5v they are only just turning.
> 
> I am wanting to know how can I run them at 7v or 9v *without* a controller?
> 
> Cheers for any help


Using the low speed fan adapters isn't going to work well, if at all, since even these little pumps draw more power than most common fans, which means the adapter will drop wayyyy more voltage than it would with a fan as the load.

I did a little quick math for you.

The pump is listed as drawing 0.408A which is right at 4.9W with 12V power.

That translates to an effective resistance of 29.4 Ohms.

To run at 7V, you'll need ~21 ohms in series with the pump with a power drop in the resistor of ~1.2W.

To get what you need with readily available resistors, (meaning RadioShack) . . . .

Get a pack of five 68 Ohm, 1/2W resistors . . . . Catalog #: 271-1106

By using appropriate combinations in parallel, you can get very close to what you're looking for with respect to overall resistance and power sinking ability.

Use 3 in parallel to get ~23 ohms for ~ 7V operation

Use 4 in parallel to get ~17 ohms for ~ 7.6V operation

Use all 5 in parallel to get ~13 ohms for ~ 8.3V

If you want to try ~9V to ~10V operation, get the 33 Ohm resistor pack too . . . Catalog #: 271-1104

3 in parallel will get you ~9V

4 in parallel will get you ~9.4V

5 in parallel will get you to ~10V

Be sure to put the resistors in the +12V lead. . . . If you put them in the Gnd lead, it could keep the tach signal from being readable.

Once you do some experimenting and determine a speed that fits your target of noise versus flow rate, then you can look for a more aesthetically pleasing options to a bunch of little resistors with the legs all twisted together.

Darlene


----------



## pascualbad

This is my rig as it stand today. I'm thinking of outing in a custom loop in to get rid of the h100i but I'm not sure as to what rad will fit in the 650d where t
It won't look too messy and full. I apreciate any help I can get from u guys


----------



## Squashie

This *LINK* should give you a few pointers


----------



## GhostDog99

Where can I buy an SLI bridge like this ?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Where can I buy an SLI bridge like this ?


http://www.coldzero.eu/193-3way-sli

He can also make you a custom one too. He's doing a Robocop one for me for my new build.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> http://www.coldzero.eu/193-3way-sli
> 
> He can also make you a custom one too. He's doing a Robocop one for me for my new build.


nice thanks mate


----------



## DarthBaggins

Seeing all these setups makes me wonder if I could use aluminum or copper/brass flared automotive brake/fuel lines in place of the traditional plastic based tubing? well of course I would have to use fittings that would be compatible with the cooler mounts (CPU, GPU, & Memory). But I don't see why that wouldn't work let alone cut down on cost also I could bend however needed. Just thought I'd ask. Also if possible then I could use a Braided style line like I use for my current brake lines on my 4Runner


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Seeing all these setups makes me wonder if I could use aluminum or copper/brass flared automotive brake/fuel lines in place of the traditional plastic based tubing? well of course I would have to use fittings that would be compatible with the cooler mounts (CPU, GPU, & Memory). But I don't see why that wouldn't work let alone cut down on cost also I could bend however needed. Just thought I'd ask. Also if possible then I could use a Braided style line like I use for my current brake lines on my 4Runner


Guides that may help are in my sig


----------



## wermad

Where's Derick









Waiting for the Sniper 5 block









He comes and goes....pondering what he's scheming in his lab at ek









Tore most of my loop apart. May not use the stock wc pipe on the board. I prefer to pickup the fc mb block from EK. Hoping its clean plexi copper too XD



According to the think tank forum on their site, it should look like the OC fc block:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Guides that may help are in my sig


Awesome thanks, just wasn't sure if it was possible or recommended to do due to heat or impurities etc.


----------



## szeged

i want the maximus vi hero and extreme boards to get blocks already


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Where's Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for the Sniper 5 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He comes and goes....pondering what he's scheming in his lab at ek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tore most of my loop apart. May not use the stock wc pipe on the board. I prefer to pickup the fc mb block from EK. Hoping its clean plexi copper too XD
> 
> 
> 
> According to the think tank forum on their site, it should look like the OC fc block:


Dunno mate,he has been copping flak from the admins tho,maybe he is taking a break?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dunno mate,he has been copping flak from the admins tho,maybe he is taking a break?


Well that sucks. Thought he was considered a "manufacturer" rep/member??? Hope he can be back soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i want the maximus vi hero and extreme boards to get blocks already


Seems like everyone is waiting. I'm guessing the new gpu blocks are keeping them busier and from launching the mb blocks. Well, hope its not too long.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Where's Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for the Sniper 5 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tore most of my loop apart. May not use the stock wc pipe on the board. I prefer to pickup the fc mb block from EK. Hoping its clean plexi copper too XD
> 
> According to the think tank forum on their site, it should look like the OC fc block:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i hope it looks like that, that block is stunning.


----------



## Trolle BE

gotta say that the EK DCP pump/reservoir bay combo aint so quiet.
sometimes you cant hear it but other times,holy hell that pump is loud


----------



## fnyk

Hey nwed som help on my thread

But take it easy on my please its my first one and have being trying fore a realy long time to find out how to make it
I have to friday max and i will be realy happy forecthe help to make a good tread and getting some help and idear









http://www.overclock.net/t/1425216/doozy-rebuild-and-upgradeing


----------



## pc-illiterate

ive got the ek dcp 4.0 plus res. i cant hear it over my fans. some people have some sensitive ears.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> Hey nwed som help on my thread
> 
> But take it easy on my please its my first one and have being trying fore a realy long time to find out how to make it
> I have to friday max and i will be realy happy forecthe help to make a good tread and getting some help and idear


Which pump is it? DDC, D5, Jingway???


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Where's Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for the Sniper 5 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He comes and goes....pondering what he's scheming in his lab at ek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tore most of my loop apart. May not use the stock wc pipe on the board. I prefer to pickup the fc mb block from EK. Hoping its clean plexi copper too XD
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to the think tank forum on their site, it should look like the OC fc block:


He's back in the U.S. now....his time at EK was apart of him studying abroad I think, so now that has ended I'm not sure what his relationship with EK will be now.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> He's back in the U.S. now....his time at EK was apart of him studying abroad I think, so now that has ended I'm not sure what his relationship with EK will be now.


That's really interesting. What a great opportunity that was!

On a side note, I received most of the parts for my new build and I must say that the build quality on the Aquacomputer Modularity rads is absolutely stunning. It seriously makes any other rad look like total turd in terms of build quality. I can't express enough how impressed I am right now.


----------



## fnyk

Im useing dual vpp655 D5 pumps in a ek dual D5 xtop


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That's really interesting. What a great opportunity that was!


Yea really....wish I could have done something like that while going through college.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> gotta say that the EK DCP pump/reservoir bay combo aint so quiet.
> sometimes you cant hear it but other times,holy hell that pump is loud


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ive got the ek dcp 4.0 plus res. i cant hear it over my fans. some people have some sensitive ears.


I have used an EK DCP 4.0 pump and it was loud as hell at full blast even with LOADS of foam under the pump to reduce vibrations. That pump is far from being quiet, unless you drop it to like half speed which then moves no water at all.









If you think the DCP 4.0 is quiet, either your rig is way far from your ears, or you have hearing issues, this pump is far from quiet, I can assure you, it was my first pump when I got into WC a bit over a year ago and I got rid of it as soon as I could.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> On a side note, I received most of the parts for my new build and I must say that the build quality on the Aquacomputer Modularity rads is absolutely stunning. It seriously makes any other rad look like total turd in terms of build quality. I can't express enough how impressed I am right now.


Man...don't tease us...show some pic of those bad boys!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That's really interesting. What a great opportunity that was!
> 
> On a side note, I received most of the parts for my new build and I must say that the build quality on the Aquacomputer Modularity rads is absolutely stunning. It seriously makes any other rad look like total turd in terms of build quality. I can't express enough how impressed I am right now.


Even comparing them against HWLabs Black Ice SR1 rads?









Didn't hear about those Aquacomputer rads until now, they look nice.


----------



## lowfat

The copper Aquacomputers are also considerably more expensive than SR1s.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The copper Aquacomputers are also considerably more expensive than SR1s.


Yeah, you definitely pay for the quality! (double







)


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

It's getting there...
Got a ton of sleeving to do!


----------



## wermad

Stumbled on this new Primochill test bench dubbed "Wet Bench"





They have different colored mb trays:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103_1261


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The copper Aquacomputers are also considerably more expensive than SR1s.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, you definitely pay for the quality! (double
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Shame you are not paying for performance too...

They are one of the least performing rads around.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Shame you are not paying for performance too...
> 
> They are one of the least performing rads around.


but when you have more than 2 480s in your loop, I think you can still get good temp.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Shame you are not paying for performance too...
> 
> They are one of the least performing rads around.


Yeah I read they're pretty average performance-wise, but I got them for build quality and looks alone. They'll perform just fine though, I got two 480's and a 240.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Shame you are not paying for performance too...
> 
> They are one of the least performing rads around.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I read they're pretty average performance-wise, but I got them for build quality and looks alone. They'll perform just fine though, I got two 480's and a 240.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Shame you are not paying for performance too...
> 
> They are one of the least performing rads around.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I read they're pretty average performance-wise, but I got them for build quality and looks alone. They'll perform just fine though, I got two 480's and a 240.
Click to expand...

I had 3 480s for the SR2 but they didn't fit in the rad bay of the LD V7...

Using 2 240s in the S3 build tho...unless Bitspower come thru with a 'package'.....


----------



## eastoahu

Aloha from Hawaii!!!

My first watercooling build is near completion (waiting on one single 1/2 barb in the mail before i can mount my GPU waterblock -_-) But I am running the loop CPU only for now.

I wanted to go liquid first off for my lucky chip (i5 2500k @1.4v @5ghz stable) and just purely because i hate big ugly air coolers. If this were a car this project would be like an engine rebuild. It really let me tear the case apart and find the best mounting points and wire routes and then putting it all back together with new parts. Good fun.

Anyway I',m just going to post some pics and the details will be in my Rigbuilder link in my sig









Running with no back exhaust fans in this pic, i dont think it really affects temps at all.







*Someone tell me if this hard drive mounting is okay lmao, it is resting on zipties with a cooling fan on it*



Please let me know what you guys think of the build!


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there...
> Got a ton of sleeving to do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it very much







Build log? what rad config will you use?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Stumbled on this new Primochill test bench dubbed "Wet Bench"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have different colored mb trays:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103_1261


I like the angled mobo tray. What about rads? Is this only one 360 or am I missing some other rads locations?


----------



## ChristianUshuaia

Hi there OCN this is my first Custom Water Cooling Loop and I wanted to share with you. Cheers.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green, sorry not the best pics, but hope you get some idea


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I have used an EK DCP 4.0 pump and it was loud as hell at full blast even with LOADS of foam under the pump to reduce vibrations. That pump is far from being quiet, unless you drop it to like half speed which then moves no water at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you think the DCP 4.0 is quiet, either your rig is way far from your ears, or you have hearing issues, this pump is far from quiet, I can assure you, it was my first pump when I got into WC a bit over a year ago and I got rid of it as soon as I could.


I am using the 2.2 combo reservoir.
To bad i cant turn the speed down(i think)
But that thing is so loud sometimes


----------



## Squashie

*My system is pretty much done now:*

[email protected]/1.29v,
MSI GTX 670 PE OC [email protected]/1163MHz
EK-Supremacy and EK-VGA Supremacy

Im monitoring VGA VRM and VRAM on both cards with the Lamptro CW611. Also got one probe by the front AF120 intake fan for ambient and one stuck behind the heat shield of the Kingston RAMs. Not sure how accurate the RAM temps would be, dont know if the probe is touching the chip itself or the PCB only, anyway i should be able to detect high temperature changes.

Temps are read of OpenHardwareMonitor except VRM, VRAM, RAM and Intake/Ambient which come from the Lamptron CW611. Cabinet fans set to 80%, could look into lowering this, but when gaming i dont notice them. Fans are set to 40% when not under heavy load.

*Idle:*
Shut down computer for 5-10mins, started up, waited a few mins til temps stabilized, took reading.

*Heaven 4.0:*
Extreme settings, 1600x900, running in loop for 25-30mins.

*Planetside2:*
Running 6020 x 1080, ultra settings, playing for 30-40mins

*Results:*


Temps at 50c+ is orange, 60c+ is read.

Highest temps are found on the top VGA, with the hottest component in this setup being the VRAM on VGA1 at 68.7c

If u want more details on my setup and experiences with universal GPU blocks, check my BUILDLOG


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green, sorry not the best pics, but hope you get some idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does it get how toxic under uv light?


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> It's getting there...
> Got a ton of sleeving to do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I have used an EK DCP 4.0 pump and it was loud as hell at full blast even with LOADS of foam under the pump to reduce vibrations. That pump is far from being quiet, unless you drop it to like half speed which then moves no water at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you think the DCP 4.0 is quiet, either your rig is way far from your ears, or you have hearing issues, this pump is far from quiet, I can assure you, it was my first pump when I got into WC a bit over a year ago and I got rid of it as soon as I could.


well either my pump is quiet as can be because a) i got a great pump or b) it still flows well even though its worn out. maybe you got 1 of the bad pumps because as i said, i can not hear it over my fans. it was quiet during bleeding and leak checking once the bubbles were gone. if you want, i can upload a video from my PHONE with only the pump running once i get home and get to it.
it also doesnt matter a lot because i'll be buying either an mcp35x or a d5. i cant make up my mind as my space is very limited.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> I like it very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log? what rad config will you use?


No build log yet... I'll be using UT60s in the back half.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> I like it very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log? what rad config will you use?
> 
> I like the angled mobo tray. What about rads? Is this only one 360 or am I missing some other rads locations?


I guess because its designed to be a test bench it only occupies a 360mm rad.

I do like the other colors:


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stumbled on this new Primochill test bench dubbed "Wet Bench"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG[/URL] ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1650405/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]They have different colored mb trays:http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103_1261


OMG just the thing I was looking for, anyone know when they are coming out?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> OMG just the thing I was looking for, anyone know when they are coming out?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4


Looks like they are out...PPCs has them in stock it looks like


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks like they are out...PPCs has them in stock it looks like


Says it's coming out soon and that you can preorder it, guess i'll have to call them up to find out.

Called up primochill and they're saying that the product has been released. Most resellers will get them by the end of the week and they also told me that frozencpu has them in stock now, but after checking their website it says that they are orderable.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Where's Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for the Sniper 5 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He comes and goes....pondering what he's scheming in his lab at ek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tore most of my loop apart. May not use the stock wc pipe on the board. I prefer to pickup the fc mb block from EK. Hoping its clean plexi copper too XD
> 
> According to the think tank forum on their site, it should look like the OC fc block:


I was on vacation  Venice. I am back in the states now, no more scheming in the lab 

The Sniper 5 block will be nearly identical to the OC Force Block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i want the maximus vi hero and extreme boards to get blocks already


Soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Where's Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for the Sniper 5 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He comes and goes....pondering what he's scheming in his lab at ek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tore most of my loop apart. May not use the stock wc pipe on the board. I prefer to pickup the fc mb block from EK. Hoping its clean plexi copper too XD
> 
> According to the think tank forum on their site, it should look like the OC fc block:
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno mate,he has been copping flak from the admins tho,maybe he is taking a break?
Click to expand...

Small one yes. Still working with enterprise on details.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dunno mate,he has been copping flak from the admins tho,maybe he is taking a break?
> 
> 
> 
> Well that sucks. Thought he was considered a "manufacturer" rep/member??? Hope he can be back soon.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i want the maximus vi hero and extreme boards to get blocks already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Seems like everyone is waiting. I'm guessing the new gpu blocks are keeping them busier and from launching the mb blocks. Well, hope its not too long.
Click to expand...

Slowly but surely. Unfortunately the process involved with making our 3D models into retail blocks and ready for shipping is a lengthy one. Something we're also working on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Where's Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for the Sniper 5 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He comes and goes....pondering what he's scheming in his lab at ek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tore most of my loop apart. May not use the stock wc pipe on the board. I prefer to pickup the fc mb block from EK. Hoping its clean plexi copper too XD
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to the think tank forum on their site, it should look like the OC fc block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He's back in the U.S. now....his time at EK was apart of him studying abroad I think, so now that has ended I'm not sure what his relationship with EK will be now.
Click to expand...

^This. Again, details are currently being ironed out but I most likely will continue to be EK's main rep on here, as well as many other forums.


----------



## Squashie

Ey Derick, how did u come up with the name "Aldri Fornøyd"?


----------



## wermad

@Derick

Thanks dude









Didn't you know were doing an internship. Pretty exciting stuff going abroad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Where's Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for the Sniper 5 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He comes and goes....pondering what he's scheming in his lab at ek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tore most of my loop apart. May not use the stock wc pipe on the board. I prefer to pickup the fc mb block from EK. Hoping its clean plexi copper too XD
> 
> According to the think tank forum on their site, it should look like the OC fc block:
> 
> 
> 
> I was on vacation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Venice. I am back in the states now, no more scheming in the lab
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Sniper 5 block will be nearly identical to the OC Force Block.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i want the maximus vi hero and extreme boards to get blocks already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Soon.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Where's Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for the Sniper 5 block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He comes and goes....pondering what he's scheming in his lab at ek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tore most of my loop apart. May not use the stock wc pipe on the board. I prefer to pickup the fc mb block from EK. Hoping its clean plexi copper too XD
> 
> According to the think tank forum on their site, it should look like the OC fc block:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Dunno mate,he has been copping flak from the admins tho,maybe he is taking a break?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Small one yes. Still working with enterprise on details.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dunno mate,he has been copping flak from the admins tho,maybe he is taking a break?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well that sucks. Thought he was considered a "manufacturer" rep/member??? Hope he can be back soon.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i want the maximus vi hero and extreme boards to get blocks already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Seems like everyone is waiting. I'm guessing the new gpu blocks are keeping them busier and from launching the mb blocks. Well, hope its not too long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Slowly but surely. Unfortunately the process involved with *making our 3D models into retail blocks and ready for shipping is a lengthy one. Something we're also working on.*
Click to expand...

Maybe i should send some models to Niko to look at.......


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Ey Derick, how did u come up with the name "Aldri Fornøyd"?


Norwegian background and the meaning fits the project.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Derick
> 
> Thanks dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you know were doing an internship. Pretty exciting stuff going abroad.


Yup! I had a great time. 8 months away from everything, studying in Prague first, then working in Slovenia and of course traveling around and seeing lots of other countries/cities. By the end though, I was ready to come back. It'll be nice to finish my rig at some point and start school again. I'm a bit behind...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe i should send some models to Niko to look at.......


Heh heh


----------



## skyhigh2004

Hey guys, I just wanted to share my finished rig. Its my first WC rig that I have finished completely. It took forever with the cables but it was worth it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I like!

Mismatched SSD's are fail tho.....








Stacking rads is a bit of a no-no too.

But otherwise,seriously,nice work.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like!
> 
> Mismatched SSD's are fail tho.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacking rads is a bit of a no-no too.
> 
> But otherwise,seriously,nice work.


Yeah I wished my funds would have allowed me to get another Samsung SSD before I took pics







. I was really surprised as to how little air gets recycled into that other rad. I know any recycled air is bad but this way since its my smaller 240 pushing warm air into the case its minimized.

Thanks a lot. Its really appreciated coming from you.


----------



## stickg1




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like!
> 
> Mismatched SSD's are fail tho.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacking rads is a bit of a no-no too.
> 
> But otherwise,seriously,nice work.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I wished my funds would have allowed me to get another Samsung SSD before I took pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was really surprised as to how little air gets recycled into that other rad. I know any recycled air is bad but this way since its my smaller 240 pushing warm air into the case its minimized.
> 
> Thanks a lot. Its really appreciated coming from you.
Click to expand...

Make your own stickers,you have a printer? Get some sticky sheets and invest some time in Paint/Photochop. Guarantee it will look amazing.


----------



## PCModderMike

EDIT: Just wanted to say that's a great idea there^^ Won't cost much at all...well assuming you have a decent printer to begin with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Hey guys, I just wanted to share my finished rig. Its my first WC rig that I have finished completely. It took forever with the cables but it was worth it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Smexy.....really very nice work.


----------



## Killa Cam

To any ek reps here, will u guys be distributing more of the supremacy tops in the u.s.? Specifically the clean acetal version. All the vendors here only have the red, green and blue. I'd order directly from ek, but the shipping is cray.


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> To any ek reps here, will u guys be distributing more of the supremacy tops in the u.s.? Specifically the clean acetal version. All the vendors here only have the red, green and blue. I'd order directly from ek, but the shipping is cray.


Do you mean this one?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_490&products_id=37630


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Do you mean this one?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_490&products_id=37630


yes, but the top part only.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> To any ek reps here, will u guys be distributing more of the supremacy tops in the u.s.? Specifically the clean acetal version. All the vendors here only have the red, green and blue. I'd order directly from ek, but the shipping is cray.


Harass FrozenCPU about it, they always have a large stock of our parts.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Harass FrozenCPU about it, they always have a large stock of our parts.


If they don't have it in stock, them and PPCs as well, will often add it into their next order from EK as well if there is a demand for it...at least this has been my experience


----------



## wermad

Sell your old one and buy a new one.

A new top is $20 + s/h, total investment $90 with the original block.

-or-

You'll be spending ~$70 for a new clean block, used supremacy's are selling for $50.

$70 old + $70 new - $50 sell old = ~$90.

Same outcome, just different approach









yeah, I know you'll end up w/ two tops but it might be quicker to sell the old block and get a new one.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Hey guys, I just wanted to share my finished rig. Its my first WC rig that I have finished completely. It took forever with the cables but it was worth it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the quad action. A clean build all around. Well Done.


----------



## sectionsone

Just work for gold plating my ek compression
http://img197.imageshack.us/i/ijr2.jpg/
http://img834.imageshack.us/i/4ma7.jpg/
http://img62.imageshack.us/i/gxlj.jpg/
http://img51.imageshack.us/i/i8nu.jpg/
http://img38.imageshack.us/i/t7f0.jpg/
http://img801.imageshack.us/i/1su8.jpg/
http://img42.imageshack.us/i/ep6s.jpg/
http://img849.imageshack.us/i/4nek.jpg/


----------



## 4Yub1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Just work for gold plating my ek compression
> http://img197.imageshack.us/i/ijr2.jpg/


muantebbbb om


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Just work for gold plating my ek compression


Who can resist real gold temptation?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Love the quad action. A clean build all around. Well Done.


I agree. I'm in the middle of my first case mod/custom loop. I hope it comes out looking that nice








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Just work for gold plating my ek compression
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://img197.imageshack.us/i/ijr2.jpg/
> http://img834.imageshack.us/i/4ma7.jpg/
> http://img62.imageshack.us/i/gxlj.jpg/
> http://img51.imageshack.us/i/i8nu.jpg/
> http://img38.imageshack.us/i/t7f0.jpg/
> http://img801.imageshack.us/i/1su8.jpg/
> http://img42.imageshack.us/i/ep6s.jpg/
> http://img849.imageshack.us/i/4nek.jpg/


Those look sweet! Where does gold fall in the whole metal interactions grouping? And was it expensive to have em custom plated?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Parts arrived the other day, new loop:


----------



## DoktorTerror




----------



## bundymania




----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*


Man thay are sexy im regrating getting the XSPC ones now


----------



## TampaChaz

Totally off topic, but I have to share with my friends. I got my promotion to level 4 workstation team manager. I'm really excited!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I agree. I'm in the middle of my first case mod/custom loop. I hope it comes out looking that nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those look sweet! Where does gold fall in the whole metal interactions grouping? And was it expensive to have em custom plated?


Gold is all the way at the bottom of the chart...at the cathodic end.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Killa Cam

I just got my alphacool nexxxos xt 45 single 140 rad and noticed they stickers aren't placed but given separately if u want to slap it on ur rad. Guess they listened to tiny tom Logan. The fans screws aren't copper as well.. possibly black nickel brass? And they only gave me 4 plugs; they gave me 5 when I bought my ut60 and monsta


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Totally off topic, but I have to share with my friends. I got my promotion to level 4 workstation team manager. I'm really excited!


Congratz!
now lets celebrate by upgrading your rig!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Totally off topic, but I have to share with my friends. I got my promotion to level 4 workstation team manager. I'm really excited!











But hey that's cool.....now buy more parts for your rig!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Congratz!
> now lets celebrate by upgrading your rig!


Had already clicked quote on him before seeing your post....so QFT lol


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hey that's cool.....now buy more parts for your rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had already clicked quote on him before seeing your post....so QFT lol


Thats what I always do when I've successfully turn a profitable project








its either shoes, pc parts and recently its custom keyboards

Next stop, caselabs!

YOLO!


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Thats what I always do when I've successfully turn a profitable project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its either shoes, pc parts and recently its custom keyboards
> 
> Next stop, caselabs!
> 
> YOLO!


heh, interesting... tell me about it later, especially about customs and duties. I never import anything from Indonesia, lol.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*


Should of bought those for my black & white build instead of the EK's, but oh well. Besides, I'd prefer those without all the artwork and lettering.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> Totally off topic, but I have to share with my friends. I got my promotion to level 4 workstation team manager. I'm really excited!


Congrats! Way to go man.


----------



## TampaChaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Thats what I always do when I've successfully turn a profitable project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its either shoes, pc parts and recently its custom keyboards
> 
> Next stop, caselabs!
> 
> YOLO!


WAY ahead of you! ALready started ordering parts for the scratch build server "closet". Watercooled and completely different than anything seen before









Also bought new shoes, new suits, new shirts, vests, ties.....basically blew my bonus and a chunk of my pay increase, but I'm worth it ROFL


----------



## badtaylorx

hey guys... just want to draw attn. to my build log....

hope its ok.....this is my first ROG build....and its a watercooled D-frame to boot.....

hope you'll check it out....(it's for my younger brother..)

P.S. im not very neat or oranized, but i dont let that creep into my builds....

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/jeffsrigstarto029_zps2fcc8b98.jpg.html

http://www.overclock.net/t/1425630/case-mod-build-log-gol-d-frame-r-o-g-er


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TampaChaz*
> 
> WAY ahead of you! ALready started ordering parts for the scratch build server "closet". Watercooled and completely different than anything seen before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also bought new shoes, new suits, new shirts, vests, ties.....basically blew my bonus and a chunk of my pay increase, but I'm worth it ROFL


We should make our own forum and discuss on that shoes haha

start a build log , will you?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> hey guys... just want to draw attn. to my build log....
> 
> hope its ok.....this is my first ROG build....and its a watercooled D-frame to boot.....
> 
> hope you'll check it out....(it's for my younger brother..)
> 
> P.S. im not very neat or oranized, but i dont let that creep into my builds....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1425630/case-mod-build-log-gol-d-frame-r-o-g-er


Love how unique D-frame is but arent you worried with the dust?


----------



## lemniscate

anyone knows if Aquacomputer's Titan/780 block is compatible with EVGA backplate?


----------



## Michalius

A few pics of my build before I tore it down (motherboard died):







Wasn't happy with that front bend, and re-did the pipe three times. I couldn't get the bend radius small enough with my benders though. I'll try to find a smaller bender for the rebuild.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> A few pics of my build before I tore it down (motherboard died):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wasn't happy with that front bend, and re-did the pipe three times. I couldn't get the bend radius small enough with my benders though. I'll try to find a smaller bender for the rebuild.


I like it. Very simple and clean. Good luck with getting the right bend you're looking to do.


----------



## pascualbad

Hey guys quick question. I'm thinking of upgrading my h100i and getting the xspc raystorm ax240. What are ur thoughts on that kit. And are there any add ons I can get to increase the look and the performance of it. I plan on fitting this in a 650d.


----------



## kcuestag

I'm looking into getting an Aquaero 5 XT to "complete" my water loop and have it perfectly, and I noticed Aquaero 6 is coming out next month. Will the wait be worth it or should I go for the 5 XT?

I want to mainly control all the fans and my D5 Vario pump.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> hey guys... just want to draw attn. to my build log....
> 
> hope its ok.....this is my first ROG build....and its a watercooled D-frame to boot.....
> 
> hope you'll check it out....(it's for my younger brother..)
> 
> P.S. im not very neat or oranized, but i dont let that creep into my builds....
> 
> http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/jeffsrigstarto029_zps2fcc8b98.jpg.html
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1425630/case-mod-build-log-gol-d-frame-r-o-g-er


Dat case









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> anyone knows if Aquacomputer's Titan/780 block is compatible with EVGA backplate?


You can make it fit. Only issue would be if the some of the screws reach. You may have some that don't so they will need to go under the plate (might need to bore out the holes on the backplate to clear). You can always buy some slightly longer screws. Or, just install the backplate on a few holes where the block doesn't attach through the pcb (the backplate is not stiff enough to support structural integrity imho).

Why not sell them and get the AC ones?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1042&products_id=38619

I'm not 100% sure but the HK might be compatible too (or you can make it







).

I've installed the EVGA backplate a few times and all those times required some modding because it was setup w/ another make's block (ie ek, hk, Koolance, etc.).

Over all, this backplate is purely cosmetic. Even under air cooling, it provides little thermal advantages







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pascualbad*
> 
> Hey guys quick question. I'm thinking of upgrading my h100i and getting the xspc raystorm ax240. What are ur thoughts on that kit. And are there any add ons I can get to increase the look and the performance of it. I plan on fitting this in a 650d.


Its a solid first step before going full custom (and blowing a lot of cash). Some of the areas that leave something to be desired are the pump/res combo unit and the tube. XSPC does sell kits w/ reservoirs designed for some of the best pumps out there (DDC or D5) but they cost more. The tube is also very "cheap" and may cloud/plasticize immediately (just buy some Primochill Adv. LRT later on). A lot of the parts can be reused since technically its a pieced custom loop. Its easy to go w/ a better pump and/or res, tube, fittings, etc. The block and rad are probably the best components and can serve you well for a while (before the upgrade bug kicks in, don't worry, it'll hit you soon after







).


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm looking into getting an Aquaero 5 XT to "complete" my water loop and have it perfectly, and I noticed Aquaero 6 is coming out next month. Will the wait be worth it or should I go for the 5 XT?
> 
> I want to mainly control all the fans and my D5 Vario pump.


I'd def wait for the Aquaero 6. I got my 5 Pro in the mail the day before the announcement and i sent it right back. The Aquaero 6 has all 4 Fan Channels PWM capable. 2.5 amps per channel in Analog Mode. Supposedly no more heat buildup on the fan headers. In the demo they show 2 fan channels voltage controlling 20 fans each and 2 channels voltage controlling a D5 each. They seem to have improved every area they needed to in the 6. I'm def. waiting for it. I think it's worth a month wait for anybody


----------



## lowfat

Couple new WIP pics. See worklog for more pics.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4110-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4104-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4099-1.jpg.html


----------



## Zooty Cat

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Couple new WIP pics. See worklog for more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4110-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4104-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4099-1.jpg.html


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Couple new WIP pics. See worklog for more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4110-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4104-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4099-1.jpg.html


Dem tubes!







Looking good LowFat.


----------



## stickg1

Clinical tube bending. That 1st and 2nd picture, showing the two tubes with nearly identical margins between each other running parallel with compound bends, just a real treat. Thanks lowfat.


----------



## yanks8981

Anyone have feedback about this res?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37660

I saw bundy post these a ways back and I like the look over an xspc. Not that it matters, but it'd be paired with the swiftech d5 pwm.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

That is one helluva wiring job Lowfat... Much respect. + rep


----------



## B3L13V3R

Finally breaking away from the AIO and adding another 670 4GB. Just a mock up for the snap.

Will be leaning on the thought leaders here. Once you see what this is goin into, you'll know why I'll be needing some serious input.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can make it fit. Only issue would be if the some of the screws reach. You may have some that don't so they will need to go under the plate (might need to bore out the holes on the backplate to clear). You can always buy some slightly longer screws. Or, just install the backplate on a few holes where the block doesn't attach through the pcb (the backplate is not stiff enough to support structural integrity imho).
> 
> Why not sell them and get the AC ones?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1042&products_id=38619
> 
> I'm not 100% sure but the HK might be compatible too (or you can make it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I've installed the EVGA backplate a few times and all those times required some modding because it was setup w/ another make's block (ie ek, hk, Koolance, etc.).
> 
> Over all, this backplate is purely cosmetic. Even under air cooling, it provides little thermal advantages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I like the EVGA backplates, lol.. yeah I know it's purely cosmetic, but if I like it then it stays.









thanks for the answer. +rep


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> http://www.coldzero.eu/193-3way-sli
> 
> He can also make you a custom one too. He's doing a Robocop one for me for my new build.


thnaks mate for the tip and telling me where to buy one









just got it in the mail 

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6451.jpg.html


----------



## p33k

First water build, wish I hadn't waited so long!


----------



## Jameswalt1

@ghostdog

No problem, looks great!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> thnaks mate for the tip and telling me where to buy one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just got it in the mail
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6451.jpg.html


Wow!! Love that build!!

PWM pump arrives tonight, so I'll be testing the new GPU added to the SLI config. My first Tri-SLI so I've got some high hopes for BF4 on this 3820 platform.









Need to pickup some DW. That's what the EK Blood Red did to the tubes after a month. Any suggestions, besides acrylic? Live acrylic but I can't swing the build-out this year, running off a tight, already blown budget.



Does this loop look right on the BP kit? Someone said that they had air issues until they got the triple top and dumped the hot water into the top.

Also... This Lian Li V2000 is what I "think" I will mod with a 480 on the bottom in P/P. I've seem a few really nice rigs using this case. I got it for a trade for an old system I never use.



It's in really great shape, but has a few very minor scratches and is very dusty. I just see some potential and I love the open airflow for watercooling since I'm passive cooling the MB.

I'm just a gamer, so I like the raw look with clean cabling and short hose lengths where applicable. Not looking for the lowest temps ever because I won't be pushing the system to the limit. I would need to use the BLCK tweaks since I'm running a 3820 and until I have a MB I can properly block, I don't wanna heat it up more than I should. 4.3Ghz is pretty decent for BF3/BF4.









Feedback?? And thanks!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Couple new WIP pics. See worklog for more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4110-1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4104-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4099-1.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Gold fish anyone?



Patiently waiting on my new cpu to arrive. Sigh....keeps me somewhat busy


----------



## JohnnyEars

1st attempt at acrylic pipe








(need to redo the lower cpu one as it's a bit too long)


----------



## defiler2k

So I finally received my parts to update my build

I went with the EK Supremacy and the Precision mount kit to do on die mounting and figured while I was at it to change my pump configuration and remove the dual bay dual D5 res and go with a dual pump top and cylinder res to clean up things.

To my surprise, this thing http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=28420

Does not include the brackets to secure the top to the case and although the feet have a part number, it appears nobody has any in stock or even carry them. Does anyone know of a compatible bracket that would work to mount these? Or would the brackets that came with the cylinder be enough to hold the weight of everything installed, I have some reservations on that? Otherwise I might end up selling these and just getting an EK kit which actually includes the mount.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I finally received my parts to update my build
> 
> I went with the EK Supremacy and the Precision mount kit to do on die mounting and figured while I was at it to change my pump configuration and remove the dual bay dual D5 res and go with a dual pump top and cylinder res to clean up things.
> 
> To my surprise, this thing http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=28420
> 
> Does not include the brackets to secure the top to the case and although the feet have a part number, it appears nobody has any in stock or even carry them. Does anyone know of a compatible bracket that would work to mount these? Or would the brackets that came with the cylinder be enough to hold the weight of everything installed, I have some reservations on that? Otherwise I might end up selling these and just getting an EK kit which actually includes the mount.


I used the mounts that came with my pumps. I just cut off one side of each one(opposite sides) and it worked for me. you could use one of THESE as well. or two


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I finally received my parts to update my build
> 
> I went with the EK Supremacy and the Precision mount kit to do on die mounting and figured while I was at it to change my pump configuration and remove the dual bay dual D5 res and go with a dual pump top and cylinder res to clean up things.
> 
> To my surprise, this thing http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=28420
> 
> Does not include the brackets to secure the top to the case and although the feet have a part number, it appears nobody has any in stock or even carry them. Does anyone know of a compatible bracket that would work to mount these? Or would the brackets that came with the cylinder be enough to hold the weight of everything installed, I have some reservations on that? Otherwise I might end up selling these and just getting an EK kit which actually includes the mount.


That's right you only get the feet for it with the upgrade kit


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> I used the mounts that came with my pumps. I just cut off one side of each one(opposite sides) and it worked for me. you could use one of THESE as well. or two


Rep +
Thanks for the link, I sent a note to PPC's to see when will they get them in black otherwise I will have a date with a can of black spray paint!


----------



## kcuestag

Ok, here it is in it's final state, won't be changing anything any time soon apart from getting he Aquaero 6 XT when it launches.





And here's a video I did:


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> 1st attempt at acrylic pipe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (need to redo the lower cpu one as it's a bit too long)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pretty dad-gum sweet!


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Ok, here it is in it's final state, won't be changing anything any time soon apart from getting he Aquaero 6 XT when it launches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a video I did:






Not even more 7970s?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> 
> Not even more 7970s?


No, after having 3x GTX580's in the past, I don't think I'll ever go with more than 2 GPU's, the amount of heat and power consumption is not worth the extra performance again.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Gold fish anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> Patiently waiting on my new cpu to arrive. Sigh....keeps me somewhat busy


Makes me want to go eat a banana creamsicle.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Makes me want to go eat a banana creamsicle.


Reminds me of some lemon sorbet


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Rep +
> Thanks for the link, I sent a note to PPC's to see when will they get them in black otherwise I will have a date with a can of black spray paint!


don't forget about these guy too
or these guys


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah EK and (UN)Designs both make really good pump mounts. If you can't find the one u want in stock one place, somewhere else'll have it for sure


----------



## Daredevil 720

Hey wermad how does the Advance LRT hold up with the pastel? All good?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Hey wermad how does the Advance LRT hold up with the pastel? All good?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Hey wermad how does the Advance LRT hold up with the pastel? All good?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Hey wermad how does the Advance LRT hold up with the pastel? All good?


----------



## wermad

Double post







(stupid tablet







)


----------



## NewHighScore

I've said it before and I'll say it again. LOVE the new trend of rigid tubing.

Great rigs everyone!


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quick question for you guys about pump speed control. Many D5 pumps come with an rpm sensor that you can plug into the motherboard like these ones:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33825:00a9c57b375641268958f5b31cfa68fb

Or this: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html

They don't have PWM control, but they have that voltage input cable. Can you still control the pumps speed using this cable through software? Or is that strictly for the PWM models, and if so, what is the difference between the 2 types of control?

thanks


----------



## Jakusonfire

A standard D5 Vario has a manual speed control dial on the back of its body. The 3 pin fan cable is only for reporting the speed of the pump, it only has a single wire going to the 3 pin fan connector.
The PWM version has 2 wires going to the 3 pin connector. This pump uses PWM signals from the motherboard to control its speed.


----------



## defiler2k

So I start parting everything out to install the new parts and find this gunk in my tubing and fittings.




The QDC's were in place for about a month maybe 2 tops along with the longer tube. The short end of tube was on there for probably a week!
At this point Im 100% disappointed with the XSPC quality on the tubes and coolant. I have a brand new roll I was going to use as part of my re-build and I guess Im going to the PrimoChill camp. Any tips on how to clean the fittings or should I just scrap them?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I start parting everything out to install the new parts and find this gunk in my tubing and fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QDC's were in place for about a month maybe 2 tops along with the longer tube. The short end of tube was on there for probably a week!
> At this point Im 100% disappointed with the XSPC quality on the tubes and coolant. I have a brand new roll I was going to use as part of my re-build and I guess Im going to the PrimoChill camp. Any tips on how to clean the fittings or should I just scrap them?


Any pitting in the Koolance fittings? I've seen them corrode (even the new ones).

I gave my enzos a hot soapy wash to get rid of the dyed gunk from the plasticize. And, if you're brave enough w/ painted fittings like mine, I used a bit of acetone and some cotton swabs. I rinsed them out immediately with tap and then distilled water. Let them air dry. Most of it is gone but a second go at it would have gotten them spot clean.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I start parting everything out to install the new parts and find this gunk in my tubing and fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QDC's were in place for about a month maybe 2 tops along with the longer tube. The short end of tube was on there for probably a week!
> At this point Im 100% disappointed with the XSPC quality on the tubes and coolant. I have a brand new roll I was going to use as part of my re-build and I guess Im going to the PrimoChill camp. Any tips on how to clean the fittings or should I just scrap them?


I've read in a few threads about people soaking them in a distilled water + vinegar solution for a little bit and having excellent results. I think people are using something like 10/90 vinegar/distilled. Do a search here on OCN b4 you try it though in case i got something wrong.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Quick question for you guys about pump speed control. Many D5 pumps come with an rpm sensor that you can plug into the motherboard like these ones:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33825:00a9c57b375641268958f5b31cfa68fb
> 
> Or this: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html
> 
> 
> They don't have PWM control, but they have that voltage input cable. Can you still control the pumps speed using this cable through software? Or is that strictly for the PWM models, and if so, what is the difference between the 2 types of control?
> 
> thanks


Voltage Control is controlling the speed of something by turning a knob and reducing the amount of power it receives. Some D5's are 12V and some are 24V. Either one shouldn't be voltage controlled through a mobo, but you could buy an external controller to take care of it. The 24V versions i think can only be Voltage Controlled by the Koolance Controller. If I'm wrong on that, some1 correct me.
The D5 Vario versions have a physical knob on the pump with 5 different speeds u can turn it to and the mobo cable provided would only report the speed back to your mobo so you can monitor it.
PWM control is completely different. A pump that has PWM control would receive it's power straight from a PSU. Then it has a cable with the RPM and PWM signal that you connect to a 4-pin fan header. The PWM signal is a 25kHZ signal that pulses from your mobo or fan/pump controller telling the fan/pump how fast to spin. Since the pump or fan is still getting constant power from a separate source, this is a safer/cleaner way to control it.

If you wanna be able to control your pump through software, I'd definitely go with the PWM version


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys just got a question....Would a 240 and a 200 rad be enough to properly cool my cpu plus dual 780's....


----------



## kpoeticg

In my opinion, it's possible but would be a bit borderline. I'm still new to WC'ing, but the general rule of thumb would be a 120 per component + an extra 120. It also depends if you're OC'ing and if you're using good Static Pressure fans on the rads

Some1 with more experience than me might chime in with a better answer tho =)


----------



## CAxVIPER

Yes a 240+200 would be fine


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys just got a question....Would a 240 and a 200 rad be enough to properly cool my cpu plus dual 780's....


Should be fine with some good fans


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Should be fine with some good fans


What fans would be considered good fans....? I currently have a couple corsair sp for the 240 and i would use a spectre pro on the 200....Also if i added another 120 rad to the rear exhaut would that be even better cooling....


----------



## wermad

Those are great fans


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> What fans would be considered good fans....? I currently have a couple corsair sp for the 240 and i would use a spectre pro on the 200....Also if i added another 120 rad to the rear exhaut would that be even better cooling....


An extra 120 would definitely improve your cooling. SP 120's are excellent rad fans. I don't know much about the Spectre's but Wermad knows what he's talkin about


----------



## Juthos

A little change to regular white c47, invisible when installed











This radiator did not match my color scheme:



so


----------



## macandy13

I should really start taking my laptop out with me :L That was a fair read to get caught up. I came back after 2 weeks work to my loop looking like this, any thought on what the white substance is would be greatly appreciated? Apologies for the poor quality but my 550D would focus on the tubing, it would focus on the board in the background.


----------



## Daredevil 720

What tubing is this and what's your coolant? Is it pastel?

My guess is that the white substance you're seeing is plasticizer building up.

Be prepared for some new tubing.


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> ...
> 
> Also... This Lian Li V2000 is what I "think" I will mod with a 480 on the bottom in P/P. I've seem a few really nice rigs using this case. I got it for a trade for an old system I never use.
> 
> 
> 
> It's in really great shape, but has a few very minor scratches and is very dusty. I just see some potential and I love the open airflow for watercooling since I'm passive cooling the MB...


Fitting a 480mm rad in the bottom is easy, it fits perfectly above the psu _(it's a tight fit but will work)_.
That's what i did in my build.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> What tubing is this and what's your coolant? Is it pastel?
> 
> My guess is that the white substance you're seeing is plasticizer building up.
> 
> Be prepared for some new tubing.


Using Masterkleer tubing and its pastel berry blue


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> Using Masterkleer tubing and its pastel berry blue


Then that tubing has surely plasticized, I'd drain the loop and grab some Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing, and if you want to re-use that coolant, get a coffee filter (Suggested by Mayhem) to filter any gunk that there may be, then place it back in the loop with the new tubing.


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Then that tubing has surely plasticized, I'd drain the loop and grab some Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing, and if you want to re-use that coolant, get a coffee filter (Suggested by Mayhem) to filter any gunk that there may be, then place it back in the loop with the new tubing.


Sounds like a good idea although I was going to go the acrylic route when I changed things out. I'll get some advanced and some new pastel while I'm at it, leave the acrylic for the next build.

Quite like the look of the RIVE Black Edition


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A little change to regular white c47, invisible when installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This radiator did not match my color scheme:
> 
> 
> 
> so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice paint job. I have one of those fans, but I bought mine from MNPCTECH a couple years ago. Still using it in my garage rig.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> Fitting a 480mm rad in the bottom is easy, it fits perfectly above the psu _(it's a tight fit but will work)_.
> That's what i did in my build.


Might we see a snapshot of said rig? The one that I am using as a reference does not have enough pics.



This guy mounted the rad on the bottom and is using the openings (perforation/grill/vents) on the floor of the case on each side of the rad to accomplish a push/pull even when the sides (doors) are on with no holes. I would assume that the efficiency of such a config would NOT be the best with the sides on. Even of the floor vents were helpful, you would think that a lot of the air would get recycled sue to the proximity of the exhaust side to the intake side underneath.

It's really nicely done though with that powder-coating.

Anyone know what that might cost a brother??


----------



## B3L13V3R

Does anyone have an extra Bitspower Z-CAP II With G1/4 x3 in one of there bins. It almost doesn't matter what it looks like.



Let me know what you want for it if you have one.









Thanks!!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Does anyone have an extra Bitspower Z-CAP II With G1/4 x3 in one of there bins. It almost doesn't matter what it looks like.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what you want for it if you have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!!


I have one mate but not clear it is black

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/BP-WTZPC2-BK_01.jpg.html

im useing the clear one


----------



## B3L13V3R

That's OK... How much to send er' on over? I'm looking for a deal here...


----------



## sivoloc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> I have one mate but not clear it is black
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/BP-WTZPC2-BK_01.jpg.html
> 
> im useing the clear one


so tasty!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Some shots from my new Build log:


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some shots from my new Build log:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You have another log. Link!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some shots from my new Build log:


LOL mate whats rong with the rig you have now ?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Would a Monsta 360 plus a Monsta 240 be enough for two Titans and a R4E? That's what I have going on for my upcoming build, and I don't want to use the flex bays because they're reserved for something else I have planned.

I don't plan on doing any heavy overclocking, folding or anything of the sort. Just mostly gaming.

Thanks.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some shots from my new *Build log*:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> You have another log. Link!
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Click where it says "Build Log"








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> LOL mate whats rong with the rig you have now ?


LOL don't think he ever said anything was "wrong" with what he has....this is just OCN, the pursuit of performance, home of overkill...the man just wants to upgrade and tinker.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Click where it says "Build Log"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL don't think he ever said anything was "wrong" with what he has....this is just OCN, the pursuit of performance, home of overkill...the man just wants to upgrade and tinker.


i know mate but he didnt say upgrad he wants a new rig that is a new level of overkill lol








but wwe all love it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Would a Monsta 360 plus a Monsta 240 be enough for two Titans and a R4E? That's what I have going on for my upcoming build, and I don't want to use the flex bays because they're reserved for something else I have planned.
> 
> I don't plan on doing any heavy overclocking, folding or anything of the sort. Just mostly gaming.
> 
> Thanks.


Yes, more then enough.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Would a Monsta 360 plus a Monsta 240 be enough for two Titans and a R4E? That's what I have going on for my upcoming build, and I don't want to use the flex bays because they're reserved for something else I have planned.
> 
> I don't plan on doing any heavy overclocking, folding or anything of the sort. Just mostly gaming.
> 
> Thanks.


Ya it will be good
the way i do the minimum requirements for water cooling is
240 rad + for CPU
120 rad + for every GPU
So for CPU + 2 GPUs 480 rad is the minimum
You have 120 rad more than the minimum so you will be ok


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> LOL mate whats rong with the rig you have now ?


Nothing wrong with the rig, just something wrong with me


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Ya it will be good
> the way i do the minimum requirements for water cooling is
> 240 rad + for CPU
> 120 rad + for every GPU
> So for CPU + 2 GPUs 480 rad is the minimum
> You have 120 rad more than the minimum so you will be ok


I think you missed something. I think he's planning to add his motherboard into the loop as well. If that's the case then he'll be just within the minimum for radiator surface area.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Nothing wrong with the rig, just something wrong with me


Lol.









If I had the $$$ I would be doing the same thing


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think you missed something. I think he's planning to add his motherboard into the loop as well. If that's the case then he'll be just within the minimum for radiator surface area.


Ya that's true but Mobo and RAM don't really add that much heat they don't really count so he will sill be ok with what he is planing
But they do add restriction so get a good pump like a D5


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Nothing wrong with the rig, just something wrong with me


Its common around here

been trying to find some flaws on my rig, but I cant
help me lol


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Nothing wrong with the rig, just something wrong with me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I had the $$$ I would be doing the same thing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Its common around here
> 
> been trying to find some flaws on my rig, but I cant
> help me lol


*I HAVE RELATIVES EVERYWHERE ON THIS FORUM!!!!!*


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Might we see a snapshot of said rig? The one that I am using as a reference does not have enough pics.
> 
> This guy mounted the rad on the bottom and is using the openings (perforation/grill/vents) on the floor of the case on each side of the rad to accomplish a push/pull even when the sides (doors) are on with no holes. I would assume that the efficiency of such a config would NOT be the best with the sides on. Even of the floor vents were helpful, you would think that a lot of the air would get recycled sue to the proximity of the exhaust side to the intake side underneath.
> 
> It's really nicely done though with that powder-coating.
> 
> Anyone know what that might cost a brother??


Have anymore pics of that build?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Have anymore pics of that build?


No... I want to find more. Would be great if someone knew this cat so we can see more of this.


----------



## mavisky

New pics with a better camera.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_0899_zps20def5b3.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_0895_zpsbcdd847b.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_0894_zpscee52dd0.jpg.html

Emerald Green UV from Mayhem.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Ya that's true but Mobo and RAM don't really add that much heat they don't really count so he will sill be ok with what he is planing
> But they do add restriction so get a good pump like a D5


I currently have a D5 in use, and another one set aside.. I also have 3 120 rads if I really need more cooling surface... Oh, and thanks for everyone's input. It's really appreciated.


----------



## Sazz

Here's what I am working on right now, watercooling is pretty much done, just have to do the cable sleeving (ugh, not looking forward to that..) and lighting. and maybe if I don't get lazy, a PSU Shroud to cover it up.


----------



## Ftimster

finally done post some more pictures after I'm done with leak testing


----------



## Ftimster

Ahhh one more then the lighting


----------



## Jameswalt1

Looks really good, love the black tubing.


----------



## Ftimster

Had to do some moding on the sli bridge can you c what I did? Had to drill out the bottom two so i could run parallel 65mm m3 screws pain in the... But I got a seal!!!


----------



## Ftimster

Thanks my first real WC build now wating on ive-e can't hardly wait


----------



## Ftimster

Was actually able to find one of the lamptron fc v3 fan controllers I like it... Like the volt readout


----------



## WebsterXC

Put your pictures in one freaking post.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Put your pictures in one freaking post.


Yep, its just common courtesy.

I mean I had 16pictures of the build I am doing right now and it would be messed up if I posted them one by one on different consecutive posts right? LOL


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Put your pictures in one freaking post.


Im sure he meant to say it in a nicer way, but yes we would appreciate it all in one post as to not clutter up the thread.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Im sure he meant to say it in a nicer way, but yes we would appreciate it all in one post as to not clutter up the thread.


My apologies, there's been a lot of this lately, along with quoting 10 pictures in a reply as well.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> What fans would be considered good fans....? I currently have a couple corsair sp for the 240 and i would use a spectre pro on the 200....Also if i added another 120 rad to the rear exhaut would that be even better cooling....


If you plan to use a 200mm rad I would guess you are using the Phobya Xtreme 200 since the Antec one is made of Aluminium? This is a good thread on the Phobya Xtreme 200. I use Coolermaster Megaflow 200's and it gives great performance. Depending on what case you use (I use a HAF X) you may find a Bitfenix won't fit but I can't swear to that.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1034195/phobya-xtreme-200-radiator


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> If you plan to use a 200mm rad I would guess you are using the Phobya Xtreme 200 since the Antec one is made of Aluminium? This is a good thread on the Phobya Xtreme 200. I use Coolermaster Megaflow 200's and it gives great performance. Depending on what case you use (I use a HAF X) you may find a Bitfenix won't fit but I can't swear to that.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1034195/phobya-xtreme-200-radiator


You are correct the rad i was referring to is the phobya extreme,and the case is a 600t with a bitfenix 200mm pro in the front....


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> You are correct the rad i was referring to is the phobya extreme,and the case is a 600t with a bitfenix 200mm pro in the front....


Bitfenix Spectre Pro are good fans and doo a really good job

i have to in the front of my 600t

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4345-1.jpg.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Bitfenix Spectre Pro are good fans and doo a really good job
> 
> i have to in the front of my 600t
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_4345-1.jpg.html


The bitfenix fans are crap on rads. They are really only 'ok' for air cooling as well. I wouldn't use these in your rads at all. I've seen people drop 10+ degrees by switching them out for good rad fans


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The bitfenix fans are crap on rads. They are really only 'ok' for air cooling as well. I wouldn't use these in your rads at all. I've seen people drop 10+ degrees by switching them out for good rad fans


Part of that problem may be having them mounted flat against the rad which creates a "dead zone" where the motor is and no air circulates past the fins. Thats why I have the Megaflows mounted on Phobya Plexi Shrouds


----------



## Kenjiwing

new frontplate for my tj07 build.. will cover the 3 1/2 drive bay as the stock one has been removed.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> new frontplate for my tj07 build.. will cover the 3 1/2 drive bay as the stock one has been removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice







I'm heading over to your build log now


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The bitfenix fans are crap on rads. They are really only 'ok' for air cooling as well. I wouldn't use these in your rads at all. I've seen people drop 10+ degrees by switching them out for good rad fans


and what fas would thay be ???

i have used maga flo fans and the bitfenix give me better tamps


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Part of that problem may be having them mounted flat against the rad which creates a "dead zone" where the motor is and no air circulates past the fins. Thats why I have the Megaflows mounted on Phobya Plexi Shrouds


Does this apply to all fans / fan sizes? I don't think such a setup is common, and if it helps indeed why isn't it?


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Does this apply to all fans / fan sizes? I don't think such a setup is common, and if it helps indeed why isn't it?


Because it's so ugly.


----------



## RickRockerr

New sexy tubing But it have to wait in the closet until I buy new rad


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Does this apply to all fans / fan sizes? I don't think such a setup is common, and if it helps indeed why isn't it?


It applies proportionately to all fan sizes because obviously the centre motor disc on a 200mm is about 2 inches and if you have them in push/pull you have a 2 inch diameter circle in the rad which sees no cooling effect whatsoever! I guess the reason they are less common is because the shrouds take up one inch each more space. I would love to have 6 x Phobya 120 shrouds on my 360 rad but there just ain't the headroom. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12587/ex-rad-217/Phobya_120x120x20mm_Fan_Radiator_Shroud_-_Plexi.html?tl=c429s163b189&id=rR7mzBDG


----------



## kyismaster

note: I've found that taking best photo's around 6-8AM or 6-8PM sitting the case on a table near a window w/o flash looks soooo sexy.

If you can get a roll of white vinyl photosheeting ( around 30 bucks off amazon ) it looks so professional o.o

I just need a new camera to take better macro's now


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> new frontplate for my tj07 build.. will cover the 3 1/2 drive bay as the stock one has been removed.






Is that a MurderMod... mod?


----------



## Eeyore888

Still new to the acrylic tubing... That stuff is difficult to say the least...

My build isn't done yet


----------



## cyphon

@eeyore888 looks good







. I share the frustration with acrylic. fortunately you don't have any super tight bends.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> @eeyore888 looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I share the frustration with acrylic. fortunately you don't have any super tight bends.


I had one part where my CPU block is connecting to my pump, it was pretty hard and probably wasted two 24" rods just for that one part. LOL

here's some picture's of it in this album.

http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1024841/2013-rig-build-in-progress/


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm heading over to your build log now


Amazing work


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Hey peeps! Do we have a Alphacool rep here? I've got a bad solder joint on my UT60 I just got in...


----------



## Trolle BE

hmm bitfenix recon fancontroller is acting weird,i guess il will look to buy a aquaero 6 and buy 3 nanoxia 120mm fans to place on my rad


----------



## gdubc

From a Recon to an Aquero is quite a step up! I hope that Aquacomputer is just setting the new norm for fan controllers, and everyone gets on board to put out more pwm models.

What does everyone think of the new Lian-Li Pc-d600?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eeyore888*
> 
> Still new to the acrylic tubing... That stuff is difficult to say the least...
> 
> My build isn't done yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Who is that sexy coolant? And those fans?
I have secret thing for purple/green things.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Who is that sexy coolant? And those fans?
> *I have secret thing for purple/green things.*


----------



## gdubc

Hahahahahahahaha!


----------



## zmegati

New for acryling tube 12\16:



http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/hd-tube-adapter-system/fittings/ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-nickel.html


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> New for acryling tube 12\16:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/hd-tube-adapter-system/fittings/ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-nickel.html


They also sell 10/12 and 12/16 acrylic tubing.


----------



## kpoeticg

10/12 and 12/16 = 5/6 and 3/4 or 10mm ID 12mm OD, 12mm ID 16mm OD?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You sir have scarred my soul in an entirely new way.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> You sir have scarred my soul in an entirely new way.


Lol, j/k









That green tube/dye and purpel (yes, purpel) looks great under UV. Never had luck keeping em ccfls alive


----------



## stickg1

Idk man, Barney is pretty hawt for a dinosaur...


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> We should make our own forum and discuss on that shoes haha
> 
> start a build log , will you?
> Love how unique D-frame is but arent you worried with the dust?


no, open air makes for a really clean rig....

got a saying in 'murka,

"Easy come, Easy go"

and this is its current state...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1425630/case-mod-build-log-gol-d-frame-r-o-g-er
http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/WP_20130914_10_33_21_Pro_zpsc14388ba.jpg.html


----------



## Sammyboy83

I finaly got my rig up running. Last gaming rig got toasted. Ek motherboard block will arrive in 2 weeks, can't wait.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> I finaly got my rig up running. Last gaming rig got toasted. Ek motherboard block will arrive in 2 weeks, can't wait.


nice rig, just one question though, 3970x, RIVE, dominator platinum ram, only one 7970?


----------



## Sammyboy83

More will come, I sold my last 7970 because I thought I wouldn't upgrade for awhile. I need at least one more 7970.


----------



## szeged

ah lol, was just curious







the 7970 looks lonely!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> I finaly got my rig up running. Last gaming rig got toasted. Ek motherboard block will arrive in 2 weeks, can't wait.


I like the mobo lighting, what'd you use?

also the orange lights?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> no, open air makes for a really clean rig....
> 
> got a saying in 'murka,
> 
> "Easy come, Easy go"
> 
> and this is its current state...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1425630/case-mod-build-log-gol-d-frame-r-o-g-er
> http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/WP_20130914_10_33_21_Pro_zpsc14388ba.jpg.html


Looks good!!

Knowing myself though, I'd spill a beer over it or something and fry it all to hell....enclosures are better for me


----------



## Sammyboy83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I like the mobo lighting, what'd you use?
> 
> also the orange lights?


All credit to my canon 600D. The lighting you see is the light from the dominators. The red light is from the mobo(debug leds). When I took the picture, it was completely dark in the room. The camera blender was set to 8 seconds. The orange light may be the bios led.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> All credit to my canon 600D. The lighting you see is the light from the dominators. The red light is from the mobo(debug leds). When I took the picture, it was completely dark in the room. The camera blender was set to 8 seconds. The orange light may be the bios led.


Sorcery!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> no, open air makes for a really clean rig....
> 
> got a saying in 'murka,
> 
> "Easy come, Easy go"
> 
> and this is its current state...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1425630/case-mod-build-log-gol-d-frame-r-o-g-er
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/WP_20130914_10_33_21_Pro_zpsc14388ba.jpg.html


That 120 rad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That 120 rad.


Looks like slim BI 360 Rad at the bottom and Monsta 140mm.


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like slim BI 360 Rad at the bottom and Monsta 140mm.


right....

it was either that 140 montsa or the HWlabs 92x2 rad....

i needed more cooling then just the 360, and the monsta's dimensions are close to that of the hdd cage it replaces


----------



## Daredevil 720

The price of a Monsta 120/140 is so close to that of a UT60 240/280. Is the performance close too?

IMO single rads are quite cost ineffective..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> The price of a Monsta 120/140 is so close to that of a UT60 240/280. Is the performance close too?
> 
> IMO single rads are quite cost ineffective..


I think it comes down to practicality. Does it fit is always a question we ask ourselves when fitting rads inside the case. There has to be compromises due to the case's design.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Or you can mod its brains out and make it fit.









...









Currently in a dilemma, wondering if I should remove the drive bays of my CM690 II Adv. to fit a 240/280 instead of a 120/140. They're not of any use to me, but I don't _really_ need the rad space either as I'm going external with a 360 in the back and already have a 240 inside. It's just that the unused space bothers me. I guess I could scratch that itch by going external in a better way, with multiple rads in a rad box/frame.

I was thinking about a wooden box/frame that I could hang on my wall with two nails. I could put some rads on it, a big tube reservoir and my pump for further silence. I would also like to have a small 100W (or less) PSU in it to power the pump and fans in order to avoid all the cable fest. That way it would just be two tubes and a power cable.

Are silent PSUs of this wattage easy to find? The last thing I want is a source of unstoppable coil whine.


----------



## ernieleo

Computer with no name or build log.......
SM8
i7-3770K @ 4.2gh
ZOTAC 770 4GB x 2 in SLI
Swiftech Maelstrom w/ Dual MCP35X
Black Ice GT Stealth 360 & 240


----------



## wermad

Very nice and tidy









I love the dual loop split and junction


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, j/k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That green tube/dye and purpel (yes, purpel) looks great under UV. Never had luck keeping em ccfls alive


My soul will heal. That was bad though. Makes me shudder even still.

The main issue for me with ccfls was always their bulky size. They should invent uv led strips already.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Idk man, Barney is pretty hawt for a dinosaur...


You dodgy people >.>


----------



## Eeyore888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Who is that sexy coolant? And those fans?
> I have secret thing for purple/green things.


No coolant









Just water! Those are UV Green Primochill Rigid tubes.

The fans are Cougar CF-V12HP that have been spray painted fluorescent green









And the purple is the glow from my UV cathode.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Progress!


----------



## nleksan

What RIVE block is that????


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> What RIVE block is that????


XSPC


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Or you can mod its brains out and make it fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently in a dilemma, wondering if I should remove the drive bays of my CM690 II Adv. to fit a 240/280 instead of a 120/140. They're not of any use to me, but I don't _really_ need the rad space either as I'm going external with a 360 in the back and already have a 240 inside. It's just that the unused space bothers me. I guess I could scratch that itch by going external in a better way, with multiple rads in a rad box/frame.
> 
> I was thinking about a wooden box/frame that I could hang on my wall with two nails. I could put some rads on it, a big tube reservoir and my pump for further silence. I would also like to have a small 100W (or less) PSU in it to power the pump and fans in order to avoid all the cable fest. That way it would just be two tubes and a power cable.
> 
> Are silent PSUs of this wattage easy to find? The last thing I want is a source of unstoppable coil whine.


The fully self contained external approach is the way I went for a way to cool quadfire / trifire setups where there just isn't really sufficient interior rad space to do it right.

I can use it amongst multiple rigs by switching the QD's.

The onboard PSU is 400W, which is overkill for the 18 fans and 3 D5's, but it's designed as an auxiliary PSU for GPU's and has 12V outputs only. That it mounts in a 5.25" bay helps too.

I set it up to turn on and off with the PC via a single molex connection.

If you don't like the PSU idea I used, I'd suggest this as the best alternative, since it's physically significantly smaller, but still more than enough at 300W:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=2094872&catalogId=10001&CID=DCAT

I use a pair of these on the stretch build for the fans and pumps.

The nice aspect is that they have a 5V standby source internally, like a PC PSU, and they can turn on and off with external dry contacts so that you can use a 12v relay on the PC's molex to turn the external unit on and off with the PC easily.

Darlene


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The fully self contained external approach is the way I went for a way to cool quadfire / trifire setups where there just isn't really sufficient interior rad space to do it right.
> 
> I can use it amongst multiple rigs by switching the QD's.
> 
> The onboard PSU is 400W, which is overkill for the 18 fans and 3 D5's, but it's designed as an auxiliary PSU for GPU's and has 12V outputs only. That it mounts in a 5.25" bay helps too.
> 
> I set it up to turn on and off with the PC via a single molex connection.
> 
> If you don't like the PSU idea I used, I'd suggest this as the best alternative, since it's physically significantly smaller, but still more than enough at 300W:
> 
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=2094872&catalogId=10001&CID=DCAT
> 
> I use a pair of these on the stretch build for the fans and pumps.
> 
> The nice aspect is that they have a 5V standby source internally, like a PC PSU, and they can turn on and off with external dry contacts so that you can use a 12v relay on the PC's molex to turn the external unit on and off with the PC easily.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It has its own Generator Set?









Nice stuff you got there.


----------



## Egami

Is there anyone other than EK who makes white reservoir tops? The urge to go black coolant & white res tops with this baby is growing on my mind.


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ernieleo*
> 
> Computer with no name or build log.......
> SM8
> i7-3770K @ 4.2gh
> ZOTAC 770 4GB x 2 in SLI
> Swiftech Maelstrom w/ Dual MCP35X
> Black Ice GT Stealth 360 & 240






Love it! Especially that top radiator "grill"; just gorgeous work.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Is there anyone other than EK who makes white reservoir tops? The urge to go black coolant & white res tops with this baby is growing on my mind.


I'm sorry I can't answer your question but I must say that is BEAUTIFUL


----------



## pc-illiterate

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/st225mureexw.html
NO MOUNTING CLAMPS!
also 225mm. sold out of 175mm


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Ya that's true but Mobo and RAM don't really add that much heat they don't really count so he will sill be ok with what he is planing
> But they do add restriction so get a good pump like a D5


I don't now what motherboard he's running but I do now nearly all AM3 boards run with a hot VRM I don't now about Intel board.
My Sabertooth mk1 VRM runs just a bit cooler then the 8320 and that is not overclock
and my gigabyte board over heats so badly I had to remove the 8320 and drop it down to a Phenom 4 core and mount a 80mm fan over it


----------



## robcowboy73

Can some one tell me if there is much difference in the Alphacool ST30 480 Full Copper rad and the 480 ST45. I am planing on putting two of these but I just can't find a chart showing the best and when the rads have reach it peek .
If two 480x30 will do the same job as the 480x45 I can save a bit and buy a new fan controller


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I'm sorry I can't answer your question but I must say that is BEAUTIFUL


Thanks! It'll get better once I manage to find two more sticks of ram (and get to taking the stickers out)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/st225mureexw.html
> NO MOUNTING CLAMPS!
> also 225mm. sold out of 175mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!


Ooh. Nice one!
...except that the 225 is just that tiny bit too big and won't fit









Do we by any chance have an Alphacool rep lurking somewhere?


----------



## luciddreamer124

Egami that is simply outstanding.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Thanks! It'll get better once I manage to find two more sticks of ram (and get to taking the stickers out)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ooh. Nice one!
> ...except that the 225 is just that tiny bit too big and won't fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do we by any chance have an Alphacool rep lurking somewhere?


look on the site, they have a 175 version

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/st175mureexw.html


----------



## JohnnyEars

@ Egami, could you find the res you like, if it's tube res it should be easy enough to just paint the top and bottom - and the threaded part would be disguised/covered by the black fluid.
Or go for the phobya balancer type res with metal top/bottom and get it powder coated.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I don't now what motherboard he's running but I do now nearly all AM3 boards run with a hot VRM I don't now about Intel board.
> My Sabertooth mk1 VRM runs just a bit cooler then the 8320 and that is not overclock
> and my gigabyte board over heats so badly I had to remove the 8320 and drop it down to a Phenom 4 core and mount a 80mm fan over it


\

your Mobos my run hot for a Mobo but the total heat it adds to a wartercooled pc is little

as you can see Mobo and ram a pasive cooled with a hitsink (maybe a little fan fo some Mobo )
because thay do not have as much heat just look ant any wartecooling guid and you will see


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> Can some one tell me if there is much difference in the Alphacool ST30 480 Full Copper rad and the 480 ST45. I am planing on putting two of these but I just can't find a chart showing the best and when the rads have reach it peek .
> If two 480x30 will do the same job as the 480x45 I can save a bit and buy a new fan controller


the 45 is thiker so thay will perform better
i cant say how much better becuse i never had one but if you can fit the 45 i would go fot that
it is always better too have more performance whan watercooling that means you can run your fans at lower speeds


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> Can some one tell me if there is much difference in the Alphacool ST30 480 Full Copper rad and the 480 ST45. I am planing on putting two of these but I just can't find a chart showing the best and when the rads have reach it peek .
> If two 480x30 will do the same job as the 480x45 I can save a bit and buy a new fan controller


There is practically no difference between them until fan speeds get very high like 2000+RPM

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283133-Bundymania-User-Review-Triple-Radiator-(360)-Roundup-with-22-Rads-

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/

The XT45 has a small percentage better performance at higher airflows but in a real system the temp differences will be tiny if at all.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is practically no difference between them until fan speeds get very high like 2000+RPM
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283133-Bundymania-User-Review-Triple-Radiator-(360)-Roundup-with-22-Rads-
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/
> 
> The XT45 has a small percentage better performance at higher airflows but in a real system the temp differences will be tiny if at all.


nice info


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Egami that is simply outstanding.


You make me pants feel all in need of a wash. And look what you did to my grammar!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> look on the site, they have a 175 version
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/st175mureexw.html


I got the impression that it was a final round and when things were up that was it? And it says all sold out on that 175 version.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> @ Egami, could you find the res you like, if it's tube res it should be easy enough to just paint the top and bottom - and the threaded part would be disguised/covered by the black fluid.
> Or go for the phobya balancer type res with metal top/bottom and get it powder coated.


I have the alphacool's HF 38 Cape Cyclone 150, which is the perfect in every way down to the amount of holes to stick no let's not go there - except that it has black tops. You're right, maybe I will try to find someone to paint them ends white. I don't trust myself with that after all the drama with the rad plate.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/st225mureexw.html
> NO MOUNTING CLAMPS!
> also 225mm. sold out of 175mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Thanks! It'll get better once I manage to find two more sticks of ram (and get to taking the stickers out)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ooh. Nice one!
> ...except that the 225 is just that tiny bit too big and won't fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do we by any chance have an Alphacool rep lurking somewhere?
> 
> 
> 
> look on the site, they have a 175 version
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/st175mureexw.html
Click to expand...

The 175mm version is out of stock now, and no longer in production.

I bought the 225mm version from Sidewinder a few months ago, and it's been a great res.:


But after IandH went out of business, Sidewinder bought out their remaining reservoirs, they are the white end-cap versions.
I was able to source an IandH clamp set from PerformancePC, but they are sold out now, idk if anyone has any left.
A 50mm res. clamp set could be adapted to be used with the res. though. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the res., it won't be available much longer.


----------



## kcuestag

Is there much to improve with a Delta of ~11-12ºC?

Today I hit 55-56ºC on the GPU's and my CPU hit as high as 72ºC while playing Arma 3 (One loop only, GPU's heating CPU







) but I also need to mention my room was at a nice 34-36ºC.









Might be paranoid, maybe those temperatures are normal considering I run my fans at ~900-1050rpm (Top SR1 420mm only has 3 fans on push, might switch to pull just for aesthetics) and my room temperature being that high... I'm just hoping summer goes away soon enough so that I don't reach high levels of paranoia and grab an external 1080 rad LOL!


----------



## _Killswitch_

Have Question for you Watercooling pro's. Well one mainly for one's who have used the new Noiseblocker E-loops. Do they perform good to justify their price?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is there much to improve with a Delta of ~11-12ºC?
> 
> Today I hit 55-56ºC on the GPU's and my CPU hit as high as 72ºC while playing Arma 3 (One loop only, GPU's heating CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but I also need to mention my room was at a nice 34-36ºC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might be paranoid, maybe those temperatures are normal considering I run my fans at ~900-1050rpm (Top SR1 420mm only has 3 fans on push, might switch to pull just for aesthetics) and my room temperature being that high... I'm just hoping summer goes away soon enough so that I don't reach high levels of paranoia and grab an external 1080 rad LOL!


my room is just as hot but i only get to 73c whan im benching if im gaming it wont go more than 60c

how did you munt your top fans on the rad pushing air out of the case or pushing air in to the case ?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> my room is just as hot but i only get to 73c whan im benching if im gaming it wont go more than 60c
> 
> how did you munt your top fans on the rad pushing air out of the case or pushing air in to the case ?


Pushing air into the case.

I run a single loop so when GPU's are at 99% the CPU reaches just as high as Prime 95 for example in intensive games like Arma 3 or Battlefield 3.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is there much to improve with a Delta of ~11-12ºC?
> 
> Today I hit 55-56ºC on the GPU's and my CPU hit as high as 72ºC while playing Arma 3 (One loop only, GPU's heating CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but I also need to mention my room was at a nice 34-36ºC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might be paranoid, maybe those temperatures are normal considering I run my fans at ~900-1050rpm (Top SR1 420mm only has 3 fans on push, might switch to pull just for aesthetics) and my room temperature being that high... I'm just hoping summer goes away soon enough so that I don't reach high levels of paranoia and grab an external 1080 rad LOL!


From what I know, doubling the rad space (with same models and fans) drops the delta halfway.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is there much to improve with a Delta of ~11-12ºC?
> 
> Today I hit 55-56ºC on the GPU's and my CPU hit as high as 72ºC while playing Arma 3 (One loop only, GPU's heating CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but I also need to mention my room was at a nice 34-36ºC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might be paranoid, maybe those temperatures are normal considering I run my fans at ~900-1050rpm (Top SR1 420mm only has 3 fans on push, might switch to pull just for aesthetics) and my room temperature being that high... I'm just hoping summer goes away soon enough so that I don't reach high levels of paranoia and grab an external 1080 rad LOL!


You would probably be better off with faster fans, although they would be louder


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is practically no difference between them until fan speeds get very high like 2000+RPM
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283133-Bundymania-User-Review-Triple-Radiator-(360)-Roundup-with-22-Rads-
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/
> 
> The XT45 has a small percentage better performance at higher airflows but in a real system the temp differences will be tiny if at all.


thank's for that I am not going for power and don't need to overclock as I don't play the high speck shooter games moor the simulator type


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> You would probably be better off with faster fans, although they would be louder


That's a no go for me, I'm already annoyed if I turn the AP-15's above 1200RPM and the Noctua's above 1000.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's a no go for me, I'm already annoyed if I turn the AP-15's above 1200RPM and the Noctua's above 1000.


AP-15s make some kind of clicking noise when running as low as 1000RPM. Doesn't that bother you?


----------



## robcowboy73

do you guys now if someone don fan testing this year as I will need some for this rads I am running Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Low Noise High Airflow 120mm on a 360 but i will need some new ones


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Progress!


Picasso couldn't have painted a better picture... That's gorgeous.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> AP-15s make some kind of clicking noise when running as low as 1000RPM. Doesn't that bother you?


They don't unless you got some bad fans, I can't hear any clicking noise anywhere from 900 to 1200rpm.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> They don't unless you got some bad fans, I can't hear any clicking noise anywhere from 900 to 1200rpm.


Yup. Mine are my best fans up down to even 700 rpm. Only if I switch the fan controller to PWM does it produce any clicking.


----------



## JohnnyEars

I run 5x AP-15's on mine at about 7 volts, and to be honest I expected them to be quieter than they are. I'm considering switching them out for some corsairs SP quiets in the future.


----------



## 4Yub1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Progress!


damn !!! i love it !!!
goodjob james


----------



## B3L13V3R

Got an issue with a new pump.

I just got this *Swiftech MCP655-PWM* from PPC and the PWM function stopped working. I stopped the pump to top off the water in the res, and when I turned it back on the system stated a *CPU fan error*.









I verified that the header was still reading by attaching a fan to the header, and it read the fan speed perfectly. The pump itself runs fine and is fairly quiet, but that is certainly not what I bought.

So if a few of you experienced WC'ers might have a few troubleshooting tips before I RMA this thing, I would much appreciate it.

*PLEASE* > I'm not interested in derogatory replys in the vein of _"I would never by a PWM pump"_, or... _"pumps don't belong on PWM"_. That's not helpful in any way.









Thanks in advance.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Got an issue with a new pump.
> 
> I just got this *Swiftech MCP655-PWM* from PPC and the PWM function stopped working. I stopped the pump to top off the water in the res, and when I turned it back on the system stated a *CPU fan error*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I verified that the header was still reading by attaching a fan to the header, and it read the fan speed perfectly. The pump itself runs fine and is fairly quiet, but that is certainly not what I bought.
> 
> So if a few of you experienced WC'ers might have a few troubleshooting tips before I RMA this thing, I would much appreciate it.
> 
> *PLEASE* > I'm not interested in derogatory replys in the vein of _"I would never by a PWM pump"_, or... _"pumps don't belong on PWM"_. That's not helpful in any way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Hooked it up straight to the psu? Verify it runs at max first? My 35x, though not in pwm, will stop working if power gets cut all of a sudden. Five to ten minutes later, it starts up again. I haven't setup my pwm but I hear its better to control it via software such as SpeedFan


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hooked it up straight to the psu? Verify it runs at max first? My 35x, though not in pwm, will stop working if power gets cut all of a sudden. Five to ten minutes later, it starts up again. I haven't setup my pwm but I hear its better to control it via software such as SpeedFan


Thanks Wer...

Pump is plugged into it's own PSU all by itself. PWM cable is plugged into MB.

The max CPUFANIN is from the fan I had plugged in to test and show that the MB does in fact read OK.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Got an issue with a new pump.
> 
> I just got this *Swiftech MCP655-PWM* from PPC and the PWM function stopped working. I stopped the pump to top off the water in the res, and when I turned it back on the system stated a *CPU fan error*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I verified that the header was still reading by attaching a fan to the header, and it read the fan speed perfectly. The pump itself runs fine and is fairly quiet, but that is certainly not what I bought.
> 
> So if a few of you experienced WC'ers might have a few troubleshooting tips before I RMA this thing, I would much appreciate it.
> 
> *PLEASE* > I'm not interested in derogatory replys in the vein of _"I would never by a PWM pump"_, or... _"pumps don't belong on PWM"_. That's not helpful in any way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> *Hooked it up straight to the psu? Verify it runs at max first?* My 35x, though not in pwm, will stop working if power gets cut all of a sudden. Five to ten minutes later, it starts up again. I haven't setup my pwm but I hear its better to control it via software such as SpeedFan
Click to expand...

The PWM variant of the D5 doesn't run at 100% when there's no PWM signal present.

It runs at ~60% with no PWM signal, a significant difference from the 35X's behavior.

You could do a simple test:

with the pumps Molex plugged into the PSU, if you bridge the PWM signal wire from the pump to a gnd connection in a molex, it should run at minimum speed, about 900 to 1000 rpm.

If you connect the PWM signal wire to a 5V pin in the molex, it will run at max, or about 4700 rpm.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hooked it up straight to the psu? Verify it runs at max first? My 35x, though not in pwm, will stop working if power gets cut all of a sudden. Five to ten minutes later, it starts up again. I haven't setup my pwm but I hear its better to control it via software such as SpeedFan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Wer...
> 
> *Pump is plugged into it's own PSU all by itself. PWM cable is plugged into MB.*
> The max CPUFANIN is from the fan I had plugged in to test and show that the MB does in fact read OK.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

That's likely the problem,

and not information contained in the original post . . .

Connect a ground between the pumps psu and the mobo's psu.

Just a single wire from gnd of one psu's molex to a gnd of the other psu's molex

Without that, there's no way the mobo can reference the tach signal, and no way the pump can reference the PWM signal.

Darlene


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PWM variant of the D5 doesn't run at 100% when there's no PWM signal present.
> 
> It runs at ~60% with no PWM signal, a significant difference from the 35X's behavior.
> 
> You could do a simple test:
> 
> with the pumps Molex plugged into the PSU, if you bridge the PWM signal wire from the pump to a gnd connection in a molex, it should run at minimum speed, about 900 to 1000 rpm.
> 
> If you connect the PWM signal wire to a 5V pin in the molex, it will run at max, or about 4700 rpm.
> 
> Darlene


Interesting


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PWM variant of the D5 doesn't run at 100% when there's no PWM signal present.
> 
> It runs at ~60% with no PWM signal, a significant difference from the 35X's behavior.
> 
> You could do a simple test:
> 
> with the pumps Molex plugged into the PSU, if you bridge the PWM signal wire from the pump to a gnd connection in a molex, it should run at minimum speed, about 900 to 1000 rpm.
> 
> If you connect the PWM signal wire to a 5V pin in the molex, it will run at max, or about 4700 rpm.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting
Click to expand...

Martin reached the same conclusion, about the 60%.

B3L13V3R's problems should be solved once he has a common ground for the mobo and the pump.

Darlene


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PWM variant of the D5 doesn't run at 100% when there's no PWM signal present.
> 
> It runs at ~60% with no PWM signal, a significant difference from the 35X's behavior.
> 
> You could do a simple test:
> 
> with the pumps Molex plugged into the PSU, if you bridge the PWM signal wire from the pump to a gnd connection in a molex, it should run at minimum speed, about 900 to 1000 rpm.
> 
> If you connect the PWM signal wire to a 5V pin in the molex, it will run at max, or about 4700 rpm.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> *That's likely the problem,*
> 
> and not information contained in the original post . . .
> 
> Connect a ground between the pumps psu and the mobo's psu.
> 
> Just a single wire from gnd of one psu's molex to a gnd of the other psu's molex
> 
> Without that, there's no way the mobo can reference the tach signal, and no way the pump can reference the PWM signal.


Rgr tht Darlene,

I'll do those tests. But what could have _changed_? It was working perfectly regarding the readout. It was displaying the pump/fan speed.

Also, I just ran a load test to see if maybe the MB would tell the pump to rev more with a load even though the CPU fan reading isn't showing anything. And it most certainly does... Dont worry, the ASUS software is only controlling fans. I don't have the patience for Speedfan and this was / is working really well. My system isn't complicated at all.



So as you can see, the pump is getting something from that header... so strange that it wouldn't push a reading back to the MB.

Don't you think?

I'll start running those tests D... standby


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PWM variant of the D5 doesn't run at 100% when there's no PWM signal present.
> 
> It runs at ~60% with no PWM signal, a significant difference from the 35X's behavior.
> 
> You could do a simple test:
> 
> with the pumps Molex plugged into the PSU, if you bridge the PWM signal wire from the pump to a gnd connection in a molex, it should run at minimum speed, about 900 to 1000 rpm.
> 
> If you connect the PWM signal wire to a 5V pin in the molex, it will run at max, or about 4700 rpm.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> *That's likely the problem,*
> 
> and not information contained in the original post . . .
> 
> Connect a ground between the pumps psu and the mobo's psu.
> 
> Just a single wire from gnd of one psu's molex to a gnd of the other psu's molex
> 
> Without that, there's no way the mobo can reference the tach signal, and no way the pump can reference the PWM signal.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Rgr tht Darlene,
> 
> I'll do those tests. But what could have _changed_? It was working perfectly regarding the readout. It was displaying the pump/fan speed.
> 
> Also, I just ran a load test to see if maybe the MB would tell the pump to rev more with a load even though the CPU fan reading isn't showing anything. And it most certainly does... Dont worry, the ASUS software is only controlling fans. I don't have the patience for Speedfan and this was / is working really well. My system isn't complicated at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as you can see, the pump is getting something from that header... so strange that it wouldn't push a reading back to the MB.
> 
> Don't you think?
> 
> I'll start running those tests D... standby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Forget the tests for the moment, and just connect the grounds for both PSU's together first.

Could have been something as simple as where the pump's psu was sitting, that maybe created a psu case to pc case ground connection that's no longer there.

Darlene


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Progress!


Beautiful!


----------



## Daredevil 720

I'm completely blown away by Darlene. Man you're a genious!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Forget the tests for the moment, and just connect the grounds for both PSU's together first.
> 
> Could have been something as simple as where the pump's psu was sitting, that maybe created a psu case to pc case ground connection that's no longer there.
> 
> Darlene


No change D, when grounding the PSU's. FYI, one PSU (system) is partially in a case. The other is free standing about 8 inches away from the other. (see pics)





So I plugged the PWM to the 5V and it went to 100%. PWM to PSU ground stops the pumps as you expected. I'm leaving it on 100% for the moment as it's puching a few small air bubbles out...









What next??


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I'm completely blown away by Darlene. Man you're a genious!


Let's see if I turn out to be right first, . . . then I'll agree with you.









Could turn out to be information that's still not conveyed yet . . .

But as soon as he mentioned that he was running the pump on a separate PSU, it clicked immediately.

as I've had a similar situation.

When I first started working with the PWM D5's, I set some up to run from a 24V supply, with my PWM controller also running from that supply.

Everything worked perfectly . . .

I then went to see if there was a difference if I ran the pumps from a 12V supply, so I plugged the pump's molexes to the 12V supply, while the PWM controller was still running from the 24V supply.

The pumps ran at ~3400 rpm, (based on the sound) and no longer controlled from the PWM controller or displayed their RPM.

I scratched my head for a bit and then the light bulb came on . . . no common ground between the 12V supply and the 24V supply.

I added a single wire between a molex from each and everything worked properly again, Also, I found no significant benefit to running a 24V supply.

Darlene

Notice the single yellow wire at the lower right which made everything work properly:



And here it is before the wire and it's not controlling or reading out rpm on the display:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Forget the tests for the moment, and just connect the grounds for both PSU's together first.
> 
> Could have been something as simple as where the pump's psu was sitting, that maybe created a psu case to pc case ground connection that's no longer there.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> No change D, when grounding the PSU's. FYI, one PSU (system) is partially in a case. The other is free standing about 8 inches away from the other. (see pics)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I plugged the PWM to the 5V and it went to 100%. PWM to PSU ground stops the pumps as you expected. I'm leaving it on 100% for the moment as it's puching a few small air bubbles out...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What next??
Click to expand...

This just mimics a lack of a common reference point, (ground) issue to a "T".

You just proved that the pump electronics are working OK.

Can you plug the pump's molex into the system PSU and see if that works?

Also, how did you connect the ground between the PSU's?

Darlene


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This just mimics a lack of a common reference point, (ground) issue to a "T".
> 
> You just proved that the pump electronics are working OK.
> 
> Can you plug the pump's molex into the system PSU and see if that works?
> 
> Also, how did you connect the ground between the PSU's?
> 
> Darlene


OK... so you are saying that because the 5V connection to the PWM is causing the pump to run at ~100%, that the pump does not have an issue with PWM control...?

I plugged the pump into the system PSU, no change in the status reading, not change in the pumps behavior. For example when under load as the pump speed is ~100%. Just by sight, it seems to be just under 100% actually...

I have no way of measuring voltages outside of the software that I use on the PC.

Judging by your yellow cable in your pics, I did the same thing as you. PSU 1 MOLEX ground to PSU 2 MOLEX ground. That's what you asked me to do right?

The big mystery still to me is that the CPU fan reading no longer works. Leading me to believe that something is still broken since that worked perfectly before.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Progress!


Very nice.

Sneaky using the clean XSPC block instead of the CSQ EK block.

I'm planning on using the EK RE4 LE block but fabricating my own clean acetal top for it when I go back to X79 but I'll keep that in mind as a backup since it turned out so well, is a nice idea.

Clean EK blocks really look great, especially that nickel supremacy block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I'm completely blown away by Darlene. Man you're a genious!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see if I turn out to be right first, . . . then I'll agree with you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could turn out to be information that's still not conveyed yet . . .
> 
> But as soon as he mentioned that he was running the pump on a separate PSU, it clicked immediately.
> 
> as I've had a similar situation.
> 
> When I first started working with the PWM D5's, I set some up to run from a 24V supply, with my PWM controller also running from that supply.
> 
> Everything worked perfectly . . .
> 
> I then went to see if there was a difference if I ran the pumps from a 12V supply, so I plugged the pump's molexes to the 12V supply, while the PWM controller was still running from the 24V supply.
> 
> The pumps ran at ~3400 rpm, (based on the sound) and no longer controlled from the PWM controller or displayed their RPM.
> 
> I scratched my head for a bit and then the light bulb came on . . . no common ground between the 12V supply and the 24V supply.
> 
> I added a single wire between a molex from each and everything worked properly again, Also, I found no significant benefit to running a 24V supply.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Notice the single yellow wire at the lower right which made everything work properly:
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is before the wire and it's not controlling or reading out rpm on the display:
Click to expand...

D5s don't get any advantage from 24v unless they are Strongs. Strongs are not varios and,sadly,don't have PWM nor the capacity to be converted to PWM.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> D5s don't get any advantage from 24v unless they are Strongs. Strongs are not varios and,sadly,don't have PWM nor the capacity to be converted to PWM.


That's why I use my D5 strong hooked up to an adjustable 0-24V power regulator. It allows me to increase and decrease the pump power as needed.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I'm completely blown away by Darlene. Man you're a genious!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see if I turn out to be right first, . . . then I'll agree with you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could turn out to be information that's still not conveyed yet . . .
> 
> But as soon as he mentioned that he was running the pump on a separate PSU, it clicked immediately.
> 
> as I've had a similar situation.
> 
> When I first started working with the PWM D5's, I set some up to run from a 24V supply, with my PWM controller also running from that supply.
> 
> Everything worked perfectly . . .
> 
> I then went to see if there was a difference if I ran the pumps from a 12V supply, so I plugged the pump's molexes to the 12V supply, while the PWM controller was still running from the 24V supply.
> 
> The pumps ran at ~3400 rpm, (based on the sound) and no longer controlled from the PWM controller or displayed their RPM.
> 
> I scratched my head for a bit and then the light bulb came on . . . no common ground between the 12V supply and the 24V supply.
> 
> I added a single wire between a molex from each and everything worked properly again, Also, I found no significant benefit to running a 24V supply.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Notice the single yellow wire at the lower right which made everything work properly:
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is before the wire and it's not controlling or reading out rpm on the display:
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D5s don't get any advantage from 24v unless they are Strongs. Strongs are not varios and,sadly,don't have PWM nor the capacity to be converted to PWM.
Click to expand...

At the time I tried that, the PWM versions were brand new, and while not expecting any real benefit from 24V, testing was the best way to know for sure. I've since changed out the 24V supply for a 12V, and redesigned the associated peripheral boards.

Given what I've learned from running the 35X's with a very low frequency PWM from the Phobya MaxGuide6, I'm actually looking at building a PWM power source that would run a pair of D5 Strongs on a Bitspower dual top Extreme.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This just mimics a lack of a common reference point, (ground) issue to a "T".
> 
> You just proved that the pump electronics are working OK.
> 
> Can you plug the pump's molex into the system PSU and see if that works?
> 
> Also, how did you connect the ground between the PSU's?
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OK... so you are saying that because the 5V connection to the PWM is causing the pump to run at ~100%, that the pump does not have an issue with PWM control...?*
> 
> I plugged the pump into the system PSU, no change in the status reading, not change in the pumps behavior. For example when under load as the pump speed is ~100%. Just by sight, it seems to be just under 100% actually...
> 
> I have no way of measuring voltages outside of the software that I use on the PC.
> 
> Judging by your yellow cable in your pics, I did the same thing as you. PSU 1 MOLEX ground to PSU 2 MOLEX ground. That's what you asked me to do right?
> 
> The big mystery still to me is that the CPU fan reading no longer works. Leading me to believe that something is still broken since that worked perfectly before.
Click to expand...

We should probably take this to PM at this point, unless B chimes in with no objections to keeping it here for others to perhaps learn from.

If the pump runs at 100% with the pwm line connected to 5V, stops when connected to gnd, and runs at ~60% when left floating, not connected to anything, then that's a fair indication that the pump's electronics are working OK.

Just to be sure, you do have the pump's 4pin tach and PWM connector plugged onto the CPU fan's header on the mobo, not a CPU-OPT header?

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I'm completely blown away by Darlene. Man you're a genious!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see if I turn out to be right first, . . . then I'll agree with you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could turn out to be information that's still not conveyed yet . . .
> 
> But as soon as he mentioned that he was running the pump on a separate PSU, it clicked immediately.
> 
> as I've had a similar situation.
> 
> When I first started working with the PWM D5's, I set some up to run from a 24V supply, with my PWM controller also running from that supply.
> 
> Everything worked perfectly . . .
> 
> I then went to see if there was a difference if I ran the pumps from a 12V supply, so I plugged the pump's molexes to the 12V supply, while the PWM controller was still running from the 24V supply.
> 
> The pumps ran at ~3400 rpm, (based on the sound) and no longer controlled from the PWM controller or displayed their RPM.
> 
> I scratched my head for a bit and then the light bulb came on . . . no common ground between the 12V supply and the 24V supply.
> 
> I added a single wire between a molex from each and everything worked properly again, Also, I found no significant benefit to running a 24V supply.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Notice the single yellow wire at the lower right which made everything work properly:
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is before the wire and it's not controlling or reading out rpm on the display:
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D5s don't get any advantage from 24v unless they are Strongs. Strongs are not varios and,sadly,don't have PWM nor the capacity to be converted to PWM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> At the time I tried that, the PWM versions were brand new, and while not expecting any real benefit from 24V, testing was the best way to know for sure. I've since changed out the 24V supply for a 12V, and redesigned the associated peripheral boards.
> 
> Given what I've learned from running the 35X's with a very low frequency PWM from the Phobya MaxGuide6, I'm actually looking at building a PWM power source that would run a pair of D5 Strongs on a Bitspower dual top Extreme.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

You build a 24v PWM D5 and i will be first in the queue!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This just mimics a lack of a common reference point, (ground) issue to a "T".
> 
> You just proved that the pump electronics are working OK.
> 
> Can you plug the pump's molex into the system PSU and see if that works?
> 
> Also, how did you connect the ground between the PSU's?
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OK... so you are saying that because the 5V connection to the PWM is causing the pump to run at ~100%, that the pump does not have an issue with PWM control...?*
> 
> I plugged the pump into the system PSU, no change in the status reading, not change in the pumps behavior. For example when under load as the pump speed is ~100%. Just by sight, it seems to be just under 100% actually...
> 
> I have no way of measuring voltages outside of the software that I use on the PC.
> 
> Judging by your yellow cable in your pics, I did the same thing as you. PSU 1 MOLEX ground to PSU 2 MOLEX ground. That's what you asked me to do right?
> 
> The big mystery still to me is that the CPU fan reading no longer works. Leading me to believe that something is still broken since that worked perfectly before.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We should probably take this to PM at this point, unless B chimes in with no objections to keeping it here for others to perhaps learn from.
> 
> If the pump runs at 100% with the pwm line connected to 5V, stops when connected to gnd, and runs at ~60% when left floating, not connected to anything, then that's a fair indication that the pump's electronics are working OK.
> 
> Just to be sure, you do have the pump's 4pin tach and PWM connector plugged onto the CPU fan's header on the mobo, not a CPU-OPT header?
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

As long as it doesnt turn into a load of pages,im cool with this.


----------



## kcuestag

Darlene, I'm always amazed about your knowledge on water cooling and eletricity related stuff, I always learn something new when I read your posts (Same goes for B-NEGATIVE







).









Quick question for a quick answer, 11-13ºC DELTA in the water (full load of course in CPU and both GPU's), good? average? bad?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> We should probably take this to PM at this point, unless B chimes in with no objections to keeping it here for others to perhaps learn from.
> 
> If the pump runs at 100% with the pwm line connected to 5V, stops when connected to gnd, and runs at ~60% when left floating, not connected to anything, then that's a fair indication that the pump's electronics are working OK.
> 
> 
> 
> *Just to be sure, you do have the pump's 4pin tach and PWM connector plugged onto the CPU fan's header on the mobo, not a CPU-OPT header?*
> 
> Darlene


Yup, CPU header... not CPU_OPT.









And did I say *THANK YOU* for helping me on this yet?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As long as it doesnt turn into a load of pages,im cool with this.


Thanks B! I will spoiler and redact any bloat as no one will be helped if they feel like they have to read through a pile of quoted material.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene, I'm always amazed about your knowledge on water cooling and eletricity related stuff, I always learn something new when I read your posts (Same goes for B-NEGATIVE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question for a quick answer, 11-13ºC DELTA in the water (full load of course in CPU and both GPU's), good? average? bad?


I'm also interested in this answer. My delta seems pretty tight, but I'm not sure of I am looking at the right numbers in the first place... Maybe someone could link me to a tutorial on delta math and expectations?


----------



## macandy13

^ I second that, think it would make for a great read


----------



## stickg1

I don't mind reading the information on PWM pumps and troubleshooting, however, I think it would be better to have a separate thread so when someone encounters this problem in the future there is an entire thread to help them troubleshoot instead of sifting through thousands of pages of posts in a thread called Watercooling Gallery.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I don't mind reading the information on PWM pumps and troubleshooting, however, I think it would be better to have a separate thread so when someone encounters this problem in the future there is an entire thread to help them troubleshoot instead of sifting through thousands of pages of posts in a thread called Watercooling Gallery.


Well it is "Watercooling Club" and Gallery, but I agree that it may be more beneficial in a thread. Let's see where we get in a few more posts.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I'm also interested in this answer. My delta seems pretty tight, but I'm not sure of I am looking at the right numbers in the first place... Maybe someone could link me to a tutorial on delta math and expectations?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macandy13*
> 
> ^ I second that, think it would make for a great read


Take a look here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1419371/radiator-space-benchmarks


----------



## macandy13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Take a look here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1419371/radiator-space-benchmarks


Thanks, seems quite straight forward if I'm honest +1


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Darlene,make a thread for it but post the salient points here too?
Best of both then.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Take a look here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1419371/radiator-space-benchmarks


Very interesting discussion! So does the temperature inside of a custom loop vary from one component to the next? I'm guessing it would be minuscule if any? The reason I ask is because when I make the switch to a water cooled system, I think I'm going to get an inline temperature sensor and an air temperature sensor to do some calculating.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Very interesting discussion! So does the temperature inside of a custom loop vary from one component to the next? I'm guessing it would be minuscule if any? The reason I ask is because when I make the switch to a water cooled system, I think I'm going to get an inline temperature sensor and an air temperature sensor to do some calculating.


Water temps tend to reach a max and stay there, pending power draw of components. Component temperatures are higher then water temps, provided that you can dissipate more heat then you generate. The ideal water loop will have low delta temps and low noise. The average water loop will tend to sacrifice one for the other.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Very interesting discussion! So does the temperature inside of a custom loop vary from one component to the next? I'm guessing it would be minuscule if any? The reason I ask is because when I make the switch to a water cooled system, I think I'm going to get an inline temperature sensor and an air temperature sensor to do some calculating.


You're right. It doesn't vary much at all from one component to the next. That's why it really doesn't matter what order you place the components in.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You're right. It doesn't vary much at all from one component to the next. That's why it really doesn't matter what order you place the components in.


Good point!







Is there a formula for calculating delta temps before you have your water loop? Assuming how your projected loop will perform that is.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Good point!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a formula for calculating delta temps before you have your water loop? Assuming how your projected loop will perform that is.


No there really isn't. That's because there are just so many different variables that will need to be taken into account.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No there really isn't. That's because there are just so many different variables that will need to be taken into account.


Okie dokie. I suppose I'll have to wait and do some tests when I get all of my parts. Thanks for your prompt replies.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Water temps tend to reach a max and stay there, pending power draw of components. Component temperatures are higher then water temps, provided that you can dissipate more heat then you generate. The ideal water loop will have low delta temps and low noise. The average water loop will tend to sacrifice one for the other.


Hopefully I'll have an ideal water loop soon! lol Thank you sir for your informative answer.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Okie dokie. I suppose I'll have to wait and do some tests when I get all of my parts. Thanks for your prompt replies.


Here's something that can help you figure out how well your loop will work though. The general rule is to have one 120mm fan area of radiator for each water block and then an additional 120mm fan area on top of it all. For example, if you have 3 water blocks you want to have 2 120mm x 2 fan radiators. This is just a guideline though and actual performance will depend on what radiators you're using, what fans your using on them, how good your air flow in your case is, and what your ambient temperatures are. It will also depend on how much heat is being dumped into the loop by your components, so the higher the overclock, the worse the loop will generally perform.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Water temps tend to reach a max and stay there, pending power draw of components. Component temperatures are higher then water temps, provided that you can dissipate more heat then you generate. The ideal water loop will have low delta temps and low noise. The average water loop will tend to sacrifice one for the other.


Mine's an average loop then, I'm sacrificing 3-5ºC on the loop by running the fans on low.









Wish I could add moar rad space.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Mine's an average loop then, I'm sacrificing 3-5ºC on the loop by running the fans on low.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I could add moar rad space.


It seems to be a compromise between temp and noise, compared to stock cpu coolers ours are relatively chilly, even with the fans turned off


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here's something that can help you figure out how well your loop will work though. The general rule is to have one 120mm fan area of radiator for each water block and then an additional 120mm fan area on top of it all. For example, if you have 3 water blocks you want to have 2 120mm x 2 fan radiators. This is just a guideline though and actual performance will depend on what radiators you're using, what fans your using on them, how good your air flow in your case is, and what your ambient temperatures are. It will also depend on how much heat is being dumped into the loop by your components, so the higher the overclock, the worse the loop will generally perform.


I have a Corsair Obsidian 650D case with plans to mod it. Inside I have an I5-3570K and two GTX 760 reference cards in sli. I was thinking of getting an Alphacool ST30 240 and Monsta 360. I'll be using a MCP655 variable pump and probably Corsair SP120 performance or quite fans. I'd be happy with a stable 4.2ghz cpu overclock and good temps. Not sure what I'll do with the gpu's, but I'm sure I'll try overclocking them some as well.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I have a Corsair Obsidian 650D case with plans to mod it. Inside I have an I5-3570K and two GTX 760 reference cards in sli. I was thinking of getting an Alphacool ST30 240 and Monsta 360. I'll be using a MCP655 variable pump and probably Corsair SP120 performance or quite fans. I'd be happy with a stable 4.2ghz cpu overclock and good temps. Not sure what I'll do with the gpu's, but I'm sure I'll try overclocking them some as well.


That amount of radiator surface area should get you some pretty good temperatures. You shouldn't have any problems with overclocking either.


----------



## tecuarenta

My hard is:

3770K @ 4.4GHz, 1.26V with EKWB Supremacy and EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F, both nickel plated
GTX670 FTW SLI BIOS unlocked @1.212v/1293MHz with EKWB FC680 GTX+ - nickel plated blocks and EK-FC680 GTX backplates.

cooled by:

1x Alphacool 360 XT45 + 3x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B12-4 (always stopped)
1x Alphacool 240 UT60 + 2x Nidec GT AP-13 (@800rpm) pull
1x MO-RA3 1080 PRO + 8x180 Phobya G-Silent Slim Red LED (@700rpm) P/P
Dual D5's single loop (level 3)

and my air to water deltas never pass 4ºC on full load.

Yes, overkill









This is OCN, right?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> My hard is:
> 
> Intel Core i7 3770K @ 4.4GHz, 1.26V with EKWB EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F, nickel plated
> EVGA GTX670 FTW SLI BIOS unlocked @1.212v/1293MHz with EKWB FC680 GTX+ - Nickel blocks and EK-FC680 GTX Backplates.
> 
> and is cooled by:
> 1x Alphacool 360 XT45 + 3x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B12-4 (always stopped)
> 1x Alphacool 240 UT60 + 2x Nidec GT AP-13 (@800rpm) pull
> 1x MO-RA3 1080 PRO + 8x180 Phobya G-Silent Slim Red LED (@700rpm) P/P
> Dual D5's single loop (level 3)
> 
> and my air to water deltas never pass 4ºC on full load.
> 
> Yes, overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is OCN right?


I hate you, you're the only reason I'm considering a MO-RA3 1080, but I don't want to add a 2nd D5 pump.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I hate you, you're the only reason I'm considering a MO-RA3 1080, but I don't want to add a 2nd D5 pump.


Thats the reason I posted my data


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I hate you, you're the only reason I'm considering a MO-RA3 1080, but I don't want to add a 2nd D5 pump.


You don't need a second pump IMO. I am running a 4x140mm SR1, a 2x140mm SR1, a 3x140mm Coolgate plus 3 blocks all w/ an MCP35X @ 1200rpm, which is slower than a D5 Vario @ 1.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That amount of radiator surface area should get you some pretty good temperatures. You shouldn't have any problems with overclocking either.


Oh, I forgot to add the blocks. I have two XSPC GTX670 blocks that are compatible with GTX760 reference cards. I'll probably go with the XSPC Raystorm cpu block.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Oh, I forgot to add the blocks. I have two XSPC GTX670 blocks that are compatible with GTX760 reference cards. I'll probably go with the XSPC Raystorm cpu block.


I'm really not going to comment on a competitor's products.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm really not going to comment on a competitor's products.


Well I was contemplating on the Swiftech Apogee, but I'd kinda like to stick with one brand of blocks and one brand of rads also. I may get a Swiftech 655 pump though! lol


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm really not going to comment on a competitor's products.


Are they working on making you an official vendor rep? Just curious.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Are they working on making you an official vendor rep? Just curious.


I'm just one that doesn't want an official badge. I've been using this forum before I started working for Swiftech, so there are other threads that I follow and post to besides the ones just for our products.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> My hard is:
> 
> 3770K @ 4.4GHz, 1.26V with EKWB Supremacy and EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F, both nickel plated
> GTX670 FTW SLI BIOS unlocked @1.212v/1293MHz with EKWB FC680 GTX+ - nickel plated blocks and EK-FC680 GTX backplates.
> 
> cooled by:
> 
> 1x Alphacool 360 XT45 + 3x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B12-4 (always stopped)
> 1x Alphacool 240 UT60 + 2x Nidec GT AP-13 (@800rpm) pull
> 1x MO-RA3 1080 PRO + 8x180 Phobya G-Silent Slim Red LED (@700rpm) P/P
> Dual D5's single loop (level 3)
> 
> and my air to water deltas never pass 4ºC on full load.
> 
> Yes, overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is OCN, right?


Pics.

Or it didn't happen.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pics.
> 
> Or it didn't happen.


I'm getting annoyed to see people with such low delta's, seeing how I have a delta of 11-13ºC.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm getting annoyed to see people with such low delta's, seeing how I have a delta of 11-13ºC.


Don't feel too bad, that's about what my delta temperatures are too. I'm fine with it though because even with those deltas none of my hardware registers above 45 C with an ambient of about 24 C.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Don't feel too bad, that's about what my delta temperatures are too. I'm fine with it though because even with those deltas none of my hardware registers above 45 C with an ambient of about 24 C.


Yeah, only reason I'm a bit bothered is because I'm having ambients of 30-34ºC these days (Yesterday I had up to 36ºC at some point in the evening) and my GPU's reached up to 55-56ºC while the CPU (4.7GHz) reached a bit over 71ºC.

I know it's still well within same range of temperatures, specially the GPU's, but still would love to have them even lower.







Once the heat is gone here in Spain and my room ambients lower to 22-26ºC I should have the GPU's well below 45-46ºC.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pics.
> 
> Or it didn't happen.


I second this.


----------



## wermad

Ambient is hanging ~23-25c in my area. I'm happy cpu has settled and it loads ~55c (4.8). Was reading ~65 initially but I guess the Ice Diamond and the Gelid needed to cure first. Oh, and i switched to jetplate #2 (1.0mm) on the Supremacy.

I did ran 4.9 for a few hours and found temps right under 60c. But after around 8 hours of stability testing, something went wrong. Back to 4.8 but I just love the difference a delid does to your temps.

Intel crud; I should have poured gasoline and my tears on you, then set you on fire. Watching you burn in this personal hell for the malicious deeds you've commited







. Meh, i just tossed the crap away immediately


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm just one that doesn't want an official badge. I've been using this forum before I started working for Swiftech, so there are other threads that I follow and post to besides the ones just for our products.


Understandable.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Understandable.


And thank you for your understanding. I've followed you, Darlene and B - for some time now and I appreciate all of the insightful water cooling advice that you've all given. I just hope that others find me to be helpful too from time to time. I don't always get stuff right, but I do my best to put out the most accurate information that I can.


----------



## Rickles

I could see idle deltas of 4-5c but no way if you are at full load on all components, while being a great medium for heat dissipation ambient water is just not that efficient.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I could see idle deltas of 4-5c but no way if you are at full load on all components, while being a great medium for heat dissipation ambient water is just not that efficient.


You're forgetting to take into account the amount of surface area that he has for heat dissipation. It's entirely possible for him to hit those deltas. Not likely, but possible. And again, no pictures and it didn't happen.







Anything lower though and he'd need to go with something like LN2.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Anyone had problems with Alphacool rads and Bitspower fittings... I'm told by Alphacool that Bitspower fitting quality isn't as good as theirs...








So that's why my rad is leaking...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Anyone had problems with Alphacool rads and Bitspower fittings... I'm told by Alphacool that Bitspower fitting quality isn't as good as theirs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's why my rad is leaking...


LOL hahahahaha. I strongly doubt that's the case.


----------



## ginger_nuts

My experience with Alphacool is thier quality is not that high either.


----------



## jiJa

90°`s from alphacool are one hell of a fingerkiller,
the surface of alphacool isnt that good too at all.
a big + is the bang for the money point since bitspower is up in the sky, however


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Anyone had problems with Alphacool rads and Bitspower fittings... I'm told by Alphacool that Bitspower fitting quality isn't as good as theirs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's why my rad is leaking...


Wut?










Phobya/Alphacool=Garbage.

/.


----------



## wermad

The 90s I bought from Phobya recently leak with the slightest movement. The old one's are holding pretty well. One actually almost fell apart. I'm still running Enzotechs and only one has given me issues. One of the 90 adapters the bottom threaded portion is stuck completely and won't rotate. It still has some use as the phobya ones were just crap.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Anyone had problems with Alphacool rads and Bitspower fittings... I'm told by Alphacool that Bitspower fitting quality isn't as good as theirs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's why my rad is leaking...
> 
> 
> 
> LOL hahahahaha. I strongly doubt that's the case.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> My experience with Alphacool is thier quality is not that high either.


Yea, . . .

What they said +1

On the other hand, if it's leaking at the juncture of the rad boss and the fitting face seal, You'll need to pull it apart to inspect to know for sure which is at fault.

I have to assume at this point that you tightened it properly and that it's not somehow come loose, like from trying to work a piece of acrylic tube into a C47 by twisting it back and forth.

Darlene


----------



## Sirstiv

Here's my rig guys.




CPU: 4770K @4.6Ghz
MOB: ROG MAXIMUS VI IMPACT
GFX: 570GTX
RAM: G.Skill 2400 Trident-X
PSU: Silverstone 600W Bronze
CSE: Silverstone SG08
CLR: Corsair H80i
SSD: 2x Sandisk 240gb
ODD: 1 x HL/LG Slim Bluray

Water cooling done in a push pull config, it's very tight and very cool. Hot air rises and I've removed the filter to allow better airflow.


----------



## Killa Cam

My latest alphacool rad (140 xt45) build quality was kinda disappointing. The paint always sucked as it chipped to easily, but I notice how easily the fins bend with a slight touch. My ut60s and monsta aren't like that at all. Is this common among rads that are below 50mm thick?


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sirstiv*
> 
> Here's my rig guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: 4770K @4.6Ghz
> MOB: ROG MAXIMUS VI IMPACT
> GFX: 570GTX
> RAM: G.Skill 2400 Trident-X
> PSU: Silverstone 600W Bronze
> CSE: Silverstone SG08
> CLR: Corsair H80i
> SSD: 2x Sandisk 240gb
> ODD: 1 x HL/LG Slim Bluray
> 
> Water cooling done in a push pull config, it's very tight and very cool. Hot air rises and I've removed the filter to allow better airflow.


nice and tightly.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yea, . . .
> 
> What they said +1
> 
> On the other hand, if it's leaking at the juncture of the rad boss and the fitting face seal, You'll need to pull it apart to inspect to know for sure which is at fault.
> 
> I have to assume at this point that you tightened it properly and that it's not somehow come loose, like from trying to work a piece of acrylic tube into a C47 by twisting it back and forth.
> 
> Darlene


After making sure it is tight. I've held a light to it and watched the water leak from under the boss. It never gets water between the fitting base and top of the boss, but it will form a pool of water out to the side. So when that one was brazed they didn't get enough braze... I've could always break out the torch and braze rods...


----------



## kcuestag

Speaking of Alphacool, remember this picture?



If you see the adapters used in the MONSTA on the bottom, those are alphacool angled adapters, well, all of them actually leaked on arrival, so I had to use some teflon tape until I got new ones few weeks later.

Since then, I won't be touching an Alphacool product (Or at least fitting/adapter) again.


----------



## yanks8981

Are all alpha cool products bad? I have an ST30 240MM rad on the way


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> My latest alphacool rad (140 xt45) build quality was kinda disappointing. The paint always sucked as it chipped to easily, but I notice how easily the fins bend with a slight touch. My ut60s and monsta aren't like that at all. Is this common among rads that are below 50mm thick?


Dunno if it's the trend but my Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm at least suffers from the very same things you just described. Plus the paint has a few runoff blotches and when you look at the fins from the side you can see copper due to only partial paint coverage.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> My latest alphacool rad (140 xt45) build quality was kinda disappointing. The paint always sucked as it chipped to easily, but I notice how easily the fins bend with a slight touch. My ut60s and monsta aren't like that at all. Is this common among rads that are below 50mm thick?


I bought a UT60 280, UT60 120, and XT45 240. Out of the 3, the UT60 280 was the only one that came with bent fins. It had a little patch of em but i fixed em myself. But all of em have fins that bend pretty damn easy. I think alot of rads are like that though. Alot of used rads i see for sale have crazy amounts of bent fins. They're always easy to bend back. I think the rads themselves r good enough to compensate for it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Are all alpha cool products bad? I have an ST30 240MM rad on the way


Not in my opinion. I think the Alphacool NexXxos rads are one of the top rads on the market right now, if not THE top. But that's definitely my OPINION. Unless you wanna go with dense fins which will always have better cooling when you have your fans blasted all the time. XSPC and Hardware Labs have real good rads out right now too. I'd def. go with the Alphacools though. Just keep in mind it might come with some bent fins.

As far as leaks, I haven't had any probs yet, but plumbers thread sealing tape and extra O-Rings always come in handy for those situations.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Dunno if it's the trend but my Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm at least suffers from the very same things you just described. Plus the paint has a few runoff blotches and when you look at the fins from the side you can see copper due to only partial paint coverage.


My UT60 280 is the one that came with bent fins so it's def not just XT's and ST's. But the copper showing through the fins is because they use full copper channels and fins. The copper showing through the fins isn't a negative.

I've never tried alphacool fittings though. Never really crossed my mind to tell u the truth


----------



## kanaks

This is my first attempt at watercooling. Excuse the crappy phone pic I was tired after the build/leak test

Res lights are off due to leak issue in the bulb cylinder.










how it was supposed to be ...


----------



## yanks8981

I went with the Alpha cool rad because its only 30mm thick and is going in the top of my storm trooper. The other rad thats available in that size is the black ice. the AC will be here today, but I dont want to put anything in my rig that has a better chance of leaking down the road.


----------



## B3L13V3R

It's EXTREMELY clear that "saving money" by buying the cheapest components in water-cooling is not the wisest. I get it that not everyone can afford the top of the line products. But man... if my (or worse, my customers) $3000 worth of computer gear is under water and there is more of a chance that my "affordable" WC component(s) will spray water all over everything, well... I say it's not worth the rush. Especially if you are NEWish to WC like me. I chose BitsPower based on all of the pro's recommendations. I have designed and re-designed my first few loops with these fittings and they have yet to change a gasket on a single fitting. Not one leak from a fitting. Although I did leak from a improperly clamped barb... totally my negligence.

Now don't get me wrong! I also know that there is a failure rate for every mass produced product , especially "eastern made" products.









BUT!! Putting your most expensive and precious gear (at least to some of us) at risk by buying the cheapest (ehem.... most affordable) watercooling products is a huge risk.

Sorry for the rant... no offense intended. Just had to get that out there...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> This is my first attempt at watercooling. Excuse the crappy phone pic I was tired after the build/leak test
> 
> Res lights are off due to leak issue in the bulb cylinder.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's awesome for a first time watercooling man!


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's awesome for a first time watercooling man!


Thanks for you kind words, found tons of help here


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> It's EXTREMELY clear that "saving money" by buying the cheapest components in water-cooling is not the wisest. I get it that not everyone can afford the top of the line products. But man... if my (or worse, my customers) $3000 worth of computer gear is under water and there is more of a chance that my "affordable" WC component(s) will spray water all over everything, well... I say it's not worth the rush. Especially if you are NEWish to WC like me. I chose BitsPower based on all of the pro's recommendations. I have designed and re-designed my first few loops with these fittings and they have yet to change a gasket on a single fitting. Not one leak from a fitting. Although I did leak from a improperly clamped barb... totally my negligence.
> 
> Now don't get me wrong! I also know that there is a failure rate for every mass produced product , especially "eastern made" products.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT!! Putting your most expensive and precious gear (at least to some of us) at risk by buying the cheapest (ehem.... most affordable) watercooling products is a huge risk.
> 
> Sorry for the rant... no offense intended. Just had to get that out there...


I totally agree with ya man


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> This is my first attempt at watercooling. Excuse the crappy phone pic I was tired after the build/leak test
> 
> Res lights are off due to leak issue in the bulb cylinder.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how it was supposed to be ...


LOVE!! I miss that case... Just sold mine a few months ago. Really like the box on the bottom. I wish I had the patience.


----------



## defiler2k

So I finished rebuilding the loop, Im leak testing the loop as it stands and after a full night running o leaks. I kind of feel sad that I went with the Mayhem coolant this iteration because the cleaner tubing that doesn't showcase the awesome coolant.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> This is my first attempt at watercooling. Excuse the crappy phone pic I was tired after the build/leak test
> 
> Res lights are off due to leak issue in the bulb cylinder.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how it was supposed to be ...


Nice build man! I love that custom cover at the bottom.







I plan on doing something similar in my 650D. It will be my first time WC'd build.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I finished rebuilding the loop, Im leak testing the loop as it stands and after a full night running o leaks. I kind of feel sad that I went with the Mayhem coolant this iteration because the cleaner tubing that doesn't showcase the awesome coolant.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That coolant looks sweet in the res. What brand of tubing are you using? You could always change it out.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> This is my first attempt at watercooling. Excuse the crappy phone pic I was tired after the build/leak test
> 
> Res lights are off due to leak issue in the bulb cylinder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how it was supposed to be ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ωραίος!

I'm interested in your PSU cover. Is that custom made? I need one for my CM690 II Adv. and I would like some advice on how to make it.

PM me if you can help.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I finished rebuilding the loop, Im leak testing the loop as it stands and after a full night running o leaks. I kind of feel sad that I went with the Mayhem coolant this iteration because the cleaner tubing that doesn't showcase the awesome coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That CPU to GPU bend seems like it was a major PITA to install..









What do you mean by "the cleaner tubing that doesn't showcase the awesome coolant"? What tubing would you prefer for this coolant?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That coolant looks sweet in the res. What brand of tubing are you using? You could always change it out.


Im using the PrimoChill Advanced LTR 1/2 ID - 3/4OD in clear paired with the Mayhem Aurora Ring Tail Gold coolant, the coolant is supposed to look a bit more black than purple but I'm happy with it, pictures do not do it justice, the swirl effect of the particles is just amazing.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Ωραίος!
> 
> I'm interested in your PSU cover. Is that custom made? I need one for my CM690 II Adv. and I would like some advice on how to make it.
> 
> PM me if you can help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That CPU to GPU bend seems like it was a major PITA to install..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean by "the cleaner tubing that doesn't showcase the awesome coolant"? What tubing would you prefer for this coolant?


Both bends on the CPU were a major PITA because of the short tubing.

The tubing is awesome because is clear, I cant complain about the PrimoChill Advanced LTR. What I meant is that since most of the tubing runs are hidden behind the Mother Board tray you can only see the coolant on the out from the top rad to the CPU, CPU to GPU and then on the Res. All other tubing is hidden.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Im using the PrimoChill Advanced LTR 1/2 ID - 3/4OD in clear paired with the Mayhem Aurora Ring Tail Gold coolant, the coolant is supposed to look a bit more black than purple but I'm happy with it, pictures do not do it justice, the swirl effect of the particles is just amazing.


That's the tubing I plan on using also. I'm not sure what color yet. You could always add some dye to the coolant to darken it.


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> This is my first attempt at watercooling. Excuse the crappy phone pic I was tired after the build/leak test
> 
> Res lights are off due to leak issue in the bulb cylinder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how it was supposed to be ...






That is a very nice build, specially for a fist time. How did you get your light box at the bottom of your case, I so want one for my 900D!


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's the tubing I plan on using also. I'm not sure what color yet. You could always add some dye to the coolant to darken it.


I had used the XSPC flex last time and I admit the Primo stuff is more flexible and easier to use. Also it cut a lot cleaner than the XSPC, I use a PVC pipe cutter to cut all of my tubing however, with other tubes I would still get jagged cuts but the Primo cuts clean. I might add dye later but I like the purple, it looks like the Galaxy Purple which was my second choice in coolant.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Ωραίος!
> 
> I'm interested in your PSU cover. Is that custom made? I need one for my CM690 II Adv. and I would like some advice on how to make it.
> 
> PM me if you can help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That CPU to GPU bend seems like it was a major PITA to install..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean by "the cleaner tubing that doesn't showcase the awesome coolant"? What tubing would you prefer for this coolant?


You could probably get some acrylic and bend it with a heat gun or make it in two separate pieces and fasten them together. Then put some vinyl over it for the nice finished look. Here's a video on how to make a homemade acrylic bender if you're interested.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVEf7PfuKxo


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I had used the XSPC flex last time and I admit the Primo stuff is more flexible and easier to use. Also it cut a lot cleaner than the XSPC, I use a PVC pipe cutter to cut all of my tubing however, with other tubes I would still get jagged cuts but the Primo cuts clean. I might add dye later but I like the purple, it looks like the Galaxy Purple which was my second choice in coolant.


Good to know that the Primo tubing cuts nice and clean. I'll probably get a cutter for it. Thanks for the info!


----------



## num1son

Hey guys check out my latest build SM8 Erakith, A Tribute:

Link to log.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> Hey guys check out my latest build SM8 Erakith, A Tribute:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to log.


There's another trendy psu cover!







NIce! What material did you use for the cover? Acrylic or aluminum?


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ernieleo*
> 
> Computer with no name or build log.......
> SM8
> i7-3770K @ 4.2gh
> ZOTAC 770 4GB x 2 in SLI
> Swiftech Maelstrom w/ Dual MCP35X
> Black Ice GT Stealth 360 & 240
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


could we get a digonal down pic of that...

aww hell,

can we get all angles???


----------



## stickg1

Has anyone bought Primochill Advance LRT from PPCs lately and had any issues?

A few weeks ago my brand new tubing was fogging. I contacted Primochill and they said to wait it out a few days. Well it just kept getting worse and I had enough tubing to redo the loop so I flushed all components and tubing thoroughly before redoing the loop. Well my recently purchased 7/16ID-5/8OD and 3/8ID-1/2OD fogged again. But I had to use a short run of my older Advance LRT 1/2ID-3/4OD and that tubing didn't fog. I drained flushed and filled with Mayhems Ice White Pastel coolant. It was all good for a few days now the 7/16ID-5/8OD and 3/8ID-1/2OD tubing are yellowing, but the 1/2ID-3/4OD and reservoir are still showing the coolant milky white...



IDK if it was a bad batch of tubing or if PPCs sent me the wrong stuff. But I'm trying to get to the bottom of it, so I was just wondering if anyone else had any problems like this?


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> My hard is:
> 
> 3770K @ 4.4GHz, 1.26V with EKWB Supremacy and EK-FB KIT ASUS M5F, both nickel plated
> GTX670 FTW SLI BIOS unlocked @1.212v/1293MHz with EKWB FC680 GTX+ - nickel plated blocks and EK-FC680 GTX backplates.
> 
> cooled by:
> 
> 1x Alphacool 360 XT45 + 3x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B12-4 (always stopped)
> 1x Alphacool 240 UT60 + 2x Nidec GT AP-13 (@800rpm) pull
> 1x MO-RA3 1080 PRO + 8x180 Phobya G-Silent Slim Red LED (@700rpm) P/P
> Dual D5's single loop (level 3)
> 
> and my air to water deltas never pass 4ºC on full load.
> 
> Yes, overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is OCN, right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I'm getting annoyed to see people with such low delta's, seeing how I have a delta of 11-13ºC.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pics.
> 
> Or it didn't happen.


You have to believe what I say because I can not post any good photos as I am monitoring my water temperature with an external unit (Sentry LXE)
I have performed "proper full load testing" and the result isnot what I figured out in the past. My bad. BF3 was not stressful enough to be representative.
After 30 min of Furmark + P95, pulling around 620W from the wall, I am getting deltas of 7ºC .
 







5 minutes after that, with all my fans spinning at full speed I can not even see a drop in temps









Kevin, accept my apologies


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> You have to believe what I say because I can not post any good photos as I am monitoring my water temperature with an external unit (Sentry LXE)
> I have performed "proper full load testing" and the result isnot what I figured out in the past. My bad. BF3 was not stressful enough to be representative.
> After 30 min of Furmark + P95, pulling around 620W from the wall, I am getting deltas of 7ºC .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5 minutes after that, with all my fans spinning at full speed I can not even see a drop in temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin, accept my apologies


No need to apologize, 7ºC DELTA is still awesome.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> You have to believe what I say because I can not post any good photos as I am monitoring my water temperature with an external unit (Sentry LXE)
> I have performed "proper full load testing" and the result isnot what I figured out in the past. My bad. BF3 was not stressful enough to be representative.
> After 30 min of Furmark + P95, pulling around 620W from the wall, I am getting deltas of 7ºC .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5 minutes after that, with all my fans spinning at full speed I can not even see a drop in temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin, accept my apologies


The same sensor that reached 30ºc during testing now idles at 25ºC.
To set air temperature, I used a cheap thermometer which is still at 23ºC, which temp do I have to trust?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> The same sensor that reached 30ºc during testing now idles at 25ºC.
> To set air temperature, I used a cheap thermometer which is still at 23ºC, which temp do I have to trust?


What do you mean? I don't see the problem, you have 2º DELTA on idle which is normal.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Has anyone bought Primochill Advance LRT from PPCs lately and had any issues?
> 
> A few weeks ago my brand new tubing was fogging. I contacted Primochill and they said to wait it out a few days. Well it just kept getting worse and I had enough tubing to redo the loop so I flushed all components and tubing thoroughly before redoing the loop. Well my recently purchased 7/16ID-5/8OD and 3/8ID-1/2OD fogged again. But I had to use a short run of my older Advance LRT 1/2ID-3/4OD and that tubing didn't fog. I drained flushed and filled with Mayhems Ice White Pastel coolant. It was all good for a few days now the 7/16ID-5/8OD and 3/8ID-1/2OD tubing are yellowing, but the 1/2ID-3/4OD and reservoir are still showing the coolant milky white...
> 
> 
> 
> IDK if it was a bad batch of tubing or if PPCs sent me the wrong stuff. But I'm trying to get to the bottom of it, so I was just wondering if anyone else had any problems like this?


*UPDATE*

Based on the images I sent him/her, the Primochill rep suspects that PPCs sent me Pro instead of Advance tubing on accident. Because my problems looked exactly like what they experienced with their PRO line of tubing.

The problem is being resolved, Primochill is sending me a few feet of Advance LRT for free.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Based on the images I sent him/her, the Primochill rep suspects that PPCs sent me Pro instead of Advance tubing on accident. Because my problems looked exactly like what they experienced with their PRO line of tubing.
> 
> The problem is being resolved, Primochill is sending me a few feet of Advance LRT for free.












Scared me...! I'm ordering some Advanced this week...


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Based on the images I sent him/her, the Primochill rep suspects that PPCs sent me Pro instead of Advance tubing on accident. Because my problems looked exactly like what they experienced with their PRO line of tubing.
> 
> The problem is being resolved, Primochill is sending me a few feet of Advance LRT for free.


You should update your post in the Mayhem thread as well.


----------



## defiler2k

So I redid my mount with EK's direct die kit for the supremacy. I have to say Im very disappointed as my temperatures are 5C higher than with my old Raystorm and IHS on idle and on load it gets up to 15C higher. I would think that direct contact would provide better performance. Thinking I did something wrong I re did the mount on the CPU I switched out to MX4 to see if that made a difference and still running 5C higher on idle and a full 15C higher on load than with the IHS and the Raystorm. I was expecting better temperatures since I added to the mix a new 480. I wonder if my Mayhem coolant is not performing as it should. I had never used Mayhem before but that is the only variable left to factor out of the equation other than switching back to the Raystorm with the IHS. Any thoughts?


----------



## lowfat

I'd guess it is a bad mount. Mounting perfectly on a bare die can take a bit of work.


----------



## Sazz

Added an 6" LED Lightbar, pics with the lighting on xD




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## soulreaper05

That Computer is beautiful!! That acrylic bending is amazing! props dude!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> Added an 6" LED Lightbar, pics with the lighting on xD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing job again there mate


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Amazing job again there mate


Thanks! and thanks for supplying the rigid fittings xD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> That Computer is beautiful!! That acrylic bending is amazing! props dude!


Thanks! those bending (specially the one that connects the CPU Block to the Res/Pump) took a lot of trial and error, the bend is so tight within the small piece of acrylic tube, it was the headache of the bending part, just glad that it all worked out in the end xD


----------



## MetallicAcid

I have a question for you guys. Where can I find a guide on how to make water channels which run through an acrylic light panel? I am planning to make one for my next project, but have not found any guide yet.

MetallicAcid


----------



## Silent8Strike

Just got a new camera and took some good pics of my rig. They are all raw from the camera, no Photoshop or other editing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I have a question for you guys. Where can I find a guide on how to make water channels which run through an acrylic light panel? I am planning to make one for my next project, but have not found any guide yet.
> 
> MetallicAcid


I've seen this build where liquid flows through acrylic pieces. I'm guessing you'll need something like a cnc machine to carve channels through a piece of acrylic. Then use an o-ring to seal both top and bottom pieces. I'm guessing screwing down would be the best choice.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've seen this build where liquid flows through acrylic pieces. I'm guessing you'll need something like a cnc machine to carve channels through a piece of acrylic. Then use an o-ring to seal both top and bottom pieces. I'm guessing screwing down would be the best choice.


Yes, and you are gonna need some Tap to on the holes you drill to get those fittings/barb to fit, of course G1/4 tap, and the tricky part is that you need the pre-drilled hole to be perfectly straight.

Basically you would need quite a resource of tools to do it, or atleast know some place that does all the stuff that you can't do by yourself.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I have a question for you guys. Where can I find a guide on how to make water channels which run through an acrylic light panel? I am planning to make one for my next project, but have not found any guide yet.
> 
> MetallicAcid


You're going to want to check out this build: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1655149










Jeffinslaw


----------



## superericla

I finally bought a datavac so I can clear out the caked on dust in my system. Planning some big upgrades soon as well, any suggestions?


----------



## Mtnd3w89

Hey all! I am looking into getting into watercooling but im a little lost when it comes to where to get WC parts as well as good quality brands etc. Is there a specific website anyone uses? Also, would one pump (and which one is recommended?) be enough to pump to rad(420mm)-cpu-rad(240mm)-gpu-res-pump?

Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You're going to want to check out this build: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1655149
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


There you, here's a nice diy one.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mtnd3w89*
> 
> Hey all! I am looking into getting into watercooling but im a little lost when it comes to where to get WC parts as well as good quality brands etc. Is there a specific website anyone uses? Also, would one pump (and which one is recommended?) be enough to pump to rad(420mm)-cpu-rad(240mm)-gpu-res-pump?
> 
> Thanks!


Looks like we're in the same boat then! I was probably going to take the plunge in the next week or so myself. As for sites I've been looking at Frozen CPU. Another is Performance PC.

Not sure about your pump question. I'll let someone with more wisdom on the subject get that on ^_^


----------



## Mtnd3w89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Looks like we're in the same boat then! I was probably going to take the plunge in the next week or so myself. As for sites I've been looking at Frozen CPU. Another is Performance PC.
> 
> Not sure about your pump question. I'll let someone with more wisdom on the subject get that on ^_^


Thanks for the websites! I'll start looking at pieces now. Truth be told it probably wont be complete for a while until I can buy everything... I dont like to start a project I cant finish in one sitting (its maddening to wait)


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mtnd3w89*
> 
> Thanks for the websites! I'll start looking at pieces now. Truth be told it probably wont be complete for a while until I can buy everything... I dont like to start a project I can't finish in one sitting (its maddening to wait)


Yea, I know what you mean. Even though I think I'm going to start small and get some stuff for my CPU only for now. Will probably get more blocks and rads when, and if, I decide to put my video card(s) under water as well.


----------



## Jameswalt1

GPU loop now integrated, will hopefully be mounted in the case by next week. More pics in the log.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> LOVE!! I miss that case... Just sold mine a few months ago. Really like the box on the bottom. I wish I had the patience.


It's a good case with excellent cable management, but it's not perfect for watercooling. I regret my choice to have a 360 rad on top... to much modding to accommodate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice build man! I love that custom cover at the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on doing something similar in my 650D. It will be my first time WC'd build.


Thanks! Its not dificult to make, it only takes some basic corelDraw skills, and if you are not familiar with power tools (like me) you can give the design to a shop with a laser cutter. ;-)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Ωραίος!
> 
> I'm interested in your PSU cover. Is that custom made? I need one for my CM690 II Adv. and I would like some advice on how to make it.
> 
> PM me if you can help.


You' ve got mail!


----------



## kanaks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> GPU loop now integrated, will hopefully be mounted in the case by next week. More pics in the log.






*Too cool to not subscribe... must subscribe *
that holster embedded in his thigh is the coolest thing in the history of cool things.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> Added an 6" LED Lightbar, pics with the lighting on xD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I redid my mount with EK's direct die kit for the supremacy. I have to say Im very disappointed as my temperatures are 5C higher than with my old Raystorm and IHS on idle and on load it gets up to 15C higher. I would think that direct contact would provide better performance. Thinking I did something wrong I re did the mount on the CPU I switched out to MX4 to see if that made a difference and still running 5C higher on idle and a full 15C higher on load than with the IHS and the Raystorm. I was expecting better temperatures since I added to the mix a new 480. I wonder if my Mayhem coolant is not performing as it should. I had never used Mayhem before but that is the only variable left to factor out of the equation other than switching back to the Raystorm with the IHS. Any thoughts?


My 4770K pushing 4600mhz and 1.45v doesn't go over 45deg under load in games like BF3 or 52deg in prime95 with my supremacy and die mount. Idles at 20-25deg.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> GPU loop now integrated, will hopefully be mounted in the case by next week. More pics in the log.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice...too many fittings for my taste but the lines are pleasing to me.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> GPU loop now integrated, will hopefully be mounted in the case by next week. More pics in the log.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. I like all the fittings.


----------



## devilhead

done for now my 600T, soon will be upgraded with 780 Classified or new amd cards







depends which will be better


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Nice tubing.
> My 4770K pushing 4600mhz and 1.45v doesn't go over 45deg under load in games like BF3 or 52deg in prime95 with my supremacy and die mount. Idles at 20-25deg.


I was at 19C on idle at 4.8 and 1.38 on the raystorm. I'm going to try and re do my mount again and Im going to change one of the hoses going in to the CPU as it is so tight that it might be affecting the distribution of the pressure on the mount.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> done for now my 600T, soon will be upgraded with 780 Classified or new amd cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> depends which will be better

































Did you BOLT IT DOWN when you were taking that picture?!?!

I'd be having a heart attack doing that...









Thanks - T


----------



## soulreaper05

Here is my new loop for IB-E!! The wiring in the bottom needs some work, any suggestions are appreciated!


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> done for now my 600T, soon will be upgraded with 780 Classified or new amd cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> depends which will be better


Gust of wind, gone!


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> done for now my 600T, soon will be upgraded with 780 Classified or new amd cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> depends which will be better


That perch is a bit... Precarious...

Love the rig, though! Always nice when you see white+red, not just red+black.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Gust of wind, gone!


it have standing really stable, now have checked the weight of all pc it was 25.3k kg, really heavy


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Gust of wind, gone!
> 
> 
> 
> it have standing really stable, now have checked the weight of all pc it was 25.3k kg, really heavy
Click to expand...

Think yourself lucky,mine weighs in at 44 kg


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> done for now my 600T, soon will be upgraded with 780 Classified or new amd cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> depends which will be better


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> it have standing really stable, now have checked the weight of all pc it was 25.3k kg, really heavy


Great looking build, but wow that would have me nervous sitting the rig up there. Again though, great job.


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Here is my new loop for IB-E!! The wiring in the bottom needs some work, any suggestions are appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? is it me or dos that tube coming out CPU in to the SLI bridge a bit pissed. if it was a Acrylic tubing it would leek still you have a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from me


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Here is my new loop for IB-E!! The wiring in the bottom needs some work, any suggestions are appreciated!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: warning spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? is it me or dos that tube coming out CPU in to the SLI bridge a bit pissed. if it was a Acrylic tubing it would leek still you have a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from me
> 
> 
> 
> It is not one hundred percent lined up, and the quick disconnect on the CPU block doesn't allow much wiggle room.
Click to expand...


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Don't know if anyone posted them but just saw these available on ppcs.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> Don't know if anyone posted them but just saw these available on ppcs.


If they were green you could do a rigid tube Mario Bro's themed rig.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Here is my new loop for IB-E!! The wiring in the bottom needs some work, any suggestions are appreciated!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> ? is it me or dos that tube coming out CPU in to the SLI bridge a bit pissed. if it was a Acrylic tubing it would leek still you have a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from me


^ This ^

The fittings not being aligned on those short runs throw me off. We are all pretty geometrically ADD on this forum and that's why I haven't posted my current project yet.









Your's has got some serious potential though... Nice stuff for sure.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> If they were green you could do a rigid tube Mario Bro's themed rig.


Ha! yes! someone do it!


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Here is my new loop for IB-E!! The wiring in the bottom needs some work, any suggestions are appreciated!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> ? is it me or dos that tube coming out CPU in to the SLI bridge a bit pissed. if it was a Acrylic tubing it would leek still you have a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from me
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ^ This ^
> 
> The fittings not being aligned on those short runs throw me off. We are all pretty geometrically ADD on this forum and that's why I haven't posted my current project yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your's has got some serious potential though... Nice stuff for sure.
Click to expand...

Thanks!! I've been slowly adding for over a year to this, the next stop is a 900D with dual 480s, but almost $600.00 will have to wait for a little bit. I get pretty good temps with my current setup however, so the new case would be merely for aesthetics...


----------



## derickwm

soulreaper we do have have a 4 way clear acrylic csq bridge available to buy now  might match the rest of your acrylic blocks a little better.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> If they were green you could do a rigid tube Mario Bro's themed rig.


Funny you say that...


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> I have a question for you guys. Where can I find a guide on how to make water channels which run through an acrylic light panel? I am planning to make one for my next project, but have not found any guide yet.


Oh my freaking god I have been wanting to do this forever I've looked around but didn't find anything. A couple of months ago somebody actually did a build with one and posted it in this thread. It looked so amazing he was using a 800d but he also rotated the motherboard tray and used hard acrylic tubing so everything connected in a straight line. I asked him how he made it but unfortunately english is not his first language and the build log, which was on another website was not English as well. I tried Google translating the build log but to no avail







I'm super excited though if anybody can do something like this it'd be you. Your build has everything I've wanted and hopefully if you do find out how you could post some good instructions on your build.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Oh my freaking god I have been wanting to do this forever I've looked around but didn't find anything. A couple of months ago somebody actually did a build with one and posted it in this thread. It looked so amazing he was using a 800d but he also rotated the motherboard tray and used hard acrylic tubing so everything connected in a straight line. I asked him how he made it but unfortunately english is not his first language and the build log, which was on another website was not English as well. I tried Google translating the build log but to no avail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm super excited though if anybody can do something like this it'd be you. Your build has everything I've wanted and hopefully if you do find out how you could post some good instructions on your build.


Look at the link I posted a few pages back









Jeffinslaw


----------



## ginger_nuts

Over the last few pages are some nice looking builds









Don't know if this fits in or not.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Over the last few pages are some nice looking builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know if this fits in or not.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












MOAR PLZ


----------



## Squashie

*Final photos:*




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















If u wanna see what i had to do to make my Universal GPU blocks work, check my BUILD LOG


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Over the last few pages are some nice looking builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know if this fits in or not.


Love it. What tubing and coolant are you using?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You're going to want to check out this build: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1655149
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


That's an amazing build... And the vertical GPU works well too. I was planning on doing the same in my current build.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Oh my freaking god I have been wanting to do this forever I've looked around but didn't find anything. A couple of months ago somebody actually did a build with one and posted it in this thread. It looked so amazing he was using a 800d but he also rotated the motherboard tray and used hard acrylic tubing so everything connected in a straight line. I asked him how he made it but unfortunately english is not his first language and the build log, which was on another website was not English as well. I tried Google translating the build log but to no avail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm super excited though if anybody can do something like this it'd be you. Your build has everything I've wanted and hopefully if you do find out how you could post some good instructions on your build.
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the link I posted a few pages back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

I'm looking at it now. I got a little too excited when I saw somebody post the question


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> soulreaper we do have have a 4 way clear acrylic csq bridge available to buy now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> might match the rest of your acrylic blocks a little better.


I looked when I originally bought that acetal one, but I couldn't find any in stock anywhere! I guess I'll wait til there are some in stock somewhere and pick one up. That QD on the CPU was just for that purpose, taking out my gpus without draining everything...


----------



## NRD

Hey guys, let me start out by saying thank you to B NEGATIVE for this awesome thread and to the community for filling it with a ton of information and a lot of really amazing builds. I've always been a hardware enthusiast but I've never dipped my toes in H2O. I've recently been pushing my new GTX 780 to it's limit thanks to some unlocked voltage hacks, and my VRMs are screaming for better cooling. So I've decided to build my first ever water loop, and even though this loop is going to initially just cover the 780, I do plan on adding a 240 rad up top in the future for my CPU (most likely when I finally upgrade from Sandy Bridge). But at the moment my Scythe Mine2 keeps my i5 [email protected] at or below 60-62C under load (with the help of a custom shroud made out of a CD-R spindle top and a Silverstone FM121 Exhausting out the back









That being said I've already taken about 3-4 days of reading and planning to come up with my list of parts and a plumbing plan/layout for my case and I think it's going to work out well. However I'd be a fool to not take advantage of this awesome community and ask for any sort of advice or tips for my first WC build.

So without further ado, the parts list:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Aquatuning;

Phobya Xtreme 200 - V.2 - Full Copper Rad
Phobya 180x180x20mm Shroud Plexi ~ $147.31
Bitfenix 200m spectre pro - Already own, may add another for push pull after seeing what temps are like with just 1 fan

Dazmode;
EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal D5 Top-Reservoir Combo
DazMode STORM D5 VARIO 8-24V Pump w/TACH cable
EK-FC Titan SE - Plexi Copper
EK-FC Titan SE Backplate - Black
4X Bitspower 1/2"ID - 3/4"OD Straight Compression Fitting - Matt Black
2X Bitspower 1/2"ID - 3/4"OD Rotary 45 Degree Angled Compression Fitting - Black
1X Bitspower Coolant Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Black (will fit into bottom of rad)
XSPC 1/2" ID Tubing - Barb - Chrome - for fill line which will connect to top of res
Koolance - 1/2"ID-3/4"OD Tubing Hose Clamp
DazMode Protector - Anti corrosive/algae additive ~ $474.54

NCIX;
PrimoChill PRIMOFLEX™ Advanced LRT™ Crystal Clear 1/2 in 3/4 OD Tubing (10 Ft) ~ $31.63

Total: $653.48 ouch! Should I just get another 780 instead?







(rhetorical question, yes I do know what thread im in







)



The plan: (sorry for crappy cell phone shot and paint skills!)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






The idea here is to build a loop with a possibility to add to in the future that has a high flow rate and takes the least amount of maintenance possible. Hence the use of 1/2" 3/4" tubing and a D5 vario, which as I understand it is capable of a decent flow rate with this setup on a setting of 2/5 so there should be plenty of umf left in it should I decide to add more blocks/rads down the road. For fluid I've decided to go with distilled water with the Dazmode additive which is made specifically for Dazmode by Feser. I do love the look of Mahem's Pastel green ever since Jameswalt's 900D build, but I'd like to keep things simple to start with. Maybe down the road when I add the CPU block I'll consider it, of course after more research. Any suggestions are welcomed, thanks OCN!


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Hey guys, let me start out by saying thank you to B NEGATIVE for this awesome thread and to the community for filling it with a ton of information and a lot of really amazing builds. I've always been a hardware enthusiast but I've never dipped my toes in H2O. I've recently been pushing my new GTX 780 to it's limit thanks to some unlocked voltage hacks, and my VRMs are screaming for better cooling. So I've decided to build my first ever water loop, and even though this loop is going to initially just cover the 780, I do plan on adding a 240 rad up top in the future for my CPU (most likely when I finally upgrade from Sandy Bridge). But at the moment my Scythe Mine2 keeps my i5 [email protected] at or below 60-62C under load (with the help of a custom shroud made out of a CD-R spindle top and a Silverstone FM121 Exhausting out the back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That being said I've already taken about 3-4 days of reading and planning to come up with my list of parts and a plumbing plan/layout for my case and I think it's going to work out well. However I'd be a fool to not take advantage of this awesome community and ask for any sort of advice or tips for my first WC build.
> 
> So without further ado, the parts list:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Aquatuning;
> 
> Phobya Xtreme 200 - V.2 - Full Copper Rad
> Phobya 180x180x20mm Shroud Plexi ~ $147.31
> Bitfenix 200m spectre pro - Already own, may add another for push pull after seeing what temps are like with just 1 fan
> 
> Dazmode;
> EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal D5 Top-Reservoir Combo
> DazMode STORM D5 VARIO 8-24V Pump w/TACH cable
> EK-FC Titan - Nickel Plexi
> EK-FC Titan SE Backplate - Black
> 4X Bitspower 1/2"ID - 3/4"OD Straight Compression Fitting - Matt Black
> 2X Bitspower 1/2"ID - 3/4"OD Rotary 45 Degree Angled Compression Fitting - Black
> 1X Bitspower Coolant Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Black (will fit into bottom of rad)
> XSPC 1/2" ID Tubing - Barb - Chrome - for fill line which will connect to top of res
> Koolance - 1/2"ID-3/4"OD Tubing Hose Clamp
> DazMode Protector - Anti corrosive/algae additive ~ $474.54
> 
> NCIX;
> PrimoChill PRIMOFLEX™ Advanced LRT™ Crystal Clear 1/2 in 3/4 OD Tubing (10 Ft) ~ $31.63
> 
> Total: $653.48 ouch! Should I just get another 780 instead?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (rhetorical question, yes I do know what thread im in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> The plan: (sorry for crappy cell phone shot and paint skills!)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build a loop with a possibility to add to in the future that has a high flow rate and takes the least amount of maintenance possible. Hence the use of 1/2" 3/4" tubing and a D5 vario, which as I understand it is capable of a decent flow rate with this setup on a setting of 2/5 so there should be plenty of umf left in it should I decide to add more blocks/rads down the road. For fluid I've decided to go with distilled water with the Dazmode additive which is made specifically for Dazmode by Feser. I do love the look of Mahem's Pastel green ever since Jameswalt's 900D build, but I'd like to keep things simple to start with. Maybe down the road when I add the CPU block I'll consider it, of course after more research. Any suggestions are welcomed, thanks OCN!


That radiator should be enough for a 780, but from what I hear the Spectre Pro's are kinda mehhh for radiators. Cooling down GPUs is pretty easy though so it should suffice.

The X-RES series from EK is pretty nice. I have one for my MCP-35X DDC pump and I love it.

The pump, I can't comment on this specific model, but a good D5 is enough to run quite more than what you're planning to. They're pretty silent too.

Waterblock & backplate are solids choices.

Now, about the fittings/tubing size. You chose 1/2-3/4 for maximum flow rate, but you should know that anything above 1/4 ID provides no extra flow rate. The openings on the waterblocks/pumps/radiators and such are all 1/4, so they will bottleneck any thicker tubing. Now there's the looks, and functionality. IMO the best all around size is 3/8-5/8 but everyone has his preference. All I know is I regret going with 1/2-3/4 as it's quite difficult to manage and too stiff on my components. Other than the size, solid choices on both.

The fill line on top of the res is not needed as you can simply open the cap and fill it without any difficulties. So I would discard the barb and the clamp.

I would also like some info on how you're planning to fit the temperature sensor. You need an extra tubing that leads to nothing so that you can use the stop fitting. You would be better off with an inline temp sensor, however that would cost you two extra fittings. XSPC makes some nice ones.

I also have to disagree with the choice of running distilled, even with additives. I know many people will tell you otherwise but my opinion is that you would be way safer with a premixed coolant such as the Mayhems X1. All you'll need for this loop is about half a liter so it's not that expensive. People have run their loops this way with very little maintenance and their stuff look crystal clear. Especially since you're gonna use a nickel plated block this could save you many headaches. Think about it.

And about the price, just bite the bullet and jump aboard. I'm so glad I did!


----------



## Jakusonfire

The Titan Block and the Titan SE block are different and their backplates are too.

A 200mm rad provides about the same cooling as a 360 rad at the same fan speeds. Its just that there are not many higher speed large fans like there is for 120mm rads.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The Titan Block and the Titan SE block are different and their backplates are too.
> 
> A 200mm rad provides about the same cooling as a 360 rad at the same fan speeds. Its just that there are not many higher speed large fans like there is for 120mm rads.


The backplate is indeed incompatible with the block, sorry for missing that. You would either have to get the normal backplate or the SE waterblock.

Also correct about the 200 rad, almost same surface area as a 360. Although due to the fans I would say it performs closer to a 240.


----------



## wermad

If you're using the small top EK titan block, then you use the "fc-titan" backplate. This has to thread inserts on the rear to insert retaining screws from the pcb side.

If you're using the EK XXL or the SE Titan blocks w/the longer top, you'll need the "SE titan" backplates. These don't have the threaded inserts on the rear but a hole to pass through and attack to the block.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> GPU loop now integrated, will hopefully be mounted in the case by next week. More pics in the log.


OMG your doing another build!! amazing !!


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That radiator should be enough for a 780, but from what I hear the Spectre Pro's are kinda mehhh for radiators. Cooling down GPUs is pretty easy though so it should suffice.
> 
> The X-RES series from EK is pretty nice. I have one for my MCP-35X DDC pump and I love it.
> 
> The pump, I can't comment on this specific model, but a good D5 is enough to run quite more than what you're planning to. They're pretty silent too.
> 
> Waterblock & backplate are solids choices.
> 
> Now, about the fittings/tubing size. You chose 1/2-3/4 for maximum flow rate, but you should know that anything above 1/4 ID provides no extra flow rate. The openings on the waterblocks/pumps/radiators and such are all 1/4, so they will bottleneck any thicker tubing. Now there's the looks, and functionality. IMO the best all around size is 3/8-5/8 but everyone has his preference. All I know is I regret going with 1/2-3/4 as it's quite difficult to manage and too stiff on my components. Other than the size, solid choices on both.
> 
> The fill line on top of the res is not needed as you can simply open the cap and fill it without any difficulties. So I would discard the barb and the clamp.
> 
> I would also like some info on how you're planning to fit the temperature sensor. You need an extra tubing that leads to nothing so that you can use the stop fitting. You would be better off with an inline temp sensor, however that would cost you two extra fittings. XSPC makes some nice ones.
> 
> I also have to disagree with the choice of running distilled, even with additives. I know many people will tell you otherwise but my opinion is that you would be way safer with a premixed coolant such as the Mayhems X1. All you'll need for this loop is about half a liter so it's not that expensive. People have run their loops this way with very little maintenance and their stuff look crystal clear. Especially since you're gonna use a nickel plated block this could save you many headaches. Think about it.
> 
> And about the price, just bite the bullet and jump aboard. I'm so glad I did!


Thanks for the advice, I'm gonna check my temps with the spectre pro I have, but i'll most likely end up mounting 2 120/140mm fans on it to achieve enough static pressure. I was initially leaning towards the 3/8-5/8 but after reading about some people preferring 1/2-3/4 I chose to go with that. I think I'll swap that out and save a bit of cash on fittings. I actually put the wrong block in my list, I've since corrected it. I'm going with the EK-FC Titan SE - Plexi Copper block that is compatible with the SE backplate obviously.

I'll do a little more research about the fluid, but I don't really see any Mayhem's X1 at any of the 3 retailers I'm going to be using. Do you suggest any other good brands? I'm looking for longevity of life before having to change it, so what ever has been shown to last a long time is preferred. How about Koolance Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, 700mL (Colorless)? There some at the Dazmode shop for $20, says it has a recommended replacement period of 2-3 years. I'll also ditch the barb for the fillport, oh and I was planning on mounting the temp sensor to the bottom of the rad, but if there isn't enough room for some reason I was going to find an EK extension and connect it to the extra inlet port on the X-Res.

Edit: Okay scratch that save a few bucks on fittings part lol Same price as 1/2-3/4. Any suggestions on rad fans for the 200mm? Are there better 180mm fans?


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> ^ This ^
> 
> The fittings not being aligned on those short runs throw me off. We are all pretty geometrically ADD on this forum and that's why I haven't posted my current project yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your's has got some serious potential though... Nice stuff for sure.


I will agree with that I haven't posted my as I am still rounding up the parts I don't have deep pockets so its bit by bit as I am buying the better gear .I only need 2 480 rads for the roof of case then its a go .
your rig has a lot of good things going for it as you rightly say it a work in progress there is all ways some thing to improve on .


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> GPU loop now integrated, will hopefully be mounted in the case by next week. More pics in the log.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Thanks for the advice, I'm gonna check my temps with the spectre pro I have, but i'll most likely end up mounting 2 120/140mm fans on it to achieve enough static pressure. I was initially leaning towards the 3/8-5/8 but after reading about some people preferring 1/2-3/4 I chose to go with that. I think I'll swap that out and save a bit of cash on fittings. I actually put the wrong block in my list, I've since corrected it. I'm going with the EK-FC Titan SE - Plexi Copper block that is compatible with the SE backplate obviously.
> 
> I'll do a little more research about the fluid, but I don't really see any Mayhem's X1 at any of the 3 retailers I'm going to be using. Do you suggest any other good brands? I'm looking for longevity of life before having to change it, so what ever has been shown to last a long time is preferred. How about Koolance Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, 700mL (Colorless)? There some at the Dazmode shop for $20, says it has a recommended replacement period of 2-3 years. I'll also ditch the barb for the fillport, oh and I was planning on mounting the temp sensor to the bottom of the rad, but if there isn't enough room for some reason I was going to find an EK extension and connect it to the extra inlet port on the X-Res.
> 
> Edit: Okay scratch that save a few bucks on fittings part lol Same price as 1/2-3/4. Any suggestions on rad fans for the 200mm? Are there better 180mm fans?


I completely forgot about the extra ports on the rad / second inlet on the X-RES. Go for the stop fitting temp sensor then, much tidier.

Besides Mayhems who I fully trust, my next choice for premixed coolant would be EK. They've had many angry customers in the past due to corrosion issues with their nickel plated waterblocks, so their coolant should be pretty safe.

Just to be clear on this, running distilled water with anti-corrosive additives and biocide shouldn't cause any problems, but personally I don't like to cheap out on something that makes up less than 5% of the total cost anyway.


----------



## Eagle1337

I really hate watercooling sometimes

http://imgur.com/BphKuj1
http://imgur.com/9btL1CZ
what my loop is like now, probably could use a 90 on the res


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I completely forgot about the extra ports on the rad / second inlet on the X-RES. Go for the stop fitting temp sensor then, much tidier.
> 
> Besides Mayhems who I fully trust, my next choice for premixed coolant would be EK. They've had many angry customers in the past due to corrosion issues with their nickel plated waterblocks, so their coolant should be pretty safe.
> 
> Just to be clear on this, running distilled water with anti-corrosive additives and biocide shouldn't cause any problems, but personally I don't like to cheap out on something that makes up less than 5% of the total cost anyway.


I've read that distilled water actually cools better than most mixes that use glycol, so I don't know if I would call it cheaping out if it actually cools better. Not sure if you caught it, but I'm going with the copper EK block not the nickel one if that makes a difference. I'm still undecided on what to run in it, anyone else have personal experience on this they'd like to share?

As for fans, I think I'm going to go with a couple of Silverstone AP182's. I already have 3 FM121's and they are beastly 120mm fans. As for mounting them, I was thinking of getting two of the Phobya 180mm shrouds, what do you think? First I like the idea of having airspace around the rad for efficiency and secondly I can add some leds to these down the road to replace the white light I've come to like in my case. But this setup with bring the total width of the assembly up to 149mm which takes up pretty much all of the space leading up to where I want to place my X-Res/pump. I know I've seen this exact setup before on OCN, just need to find those posts again and see if I can glean any info about spacing/effectiveness from it.

Edit: After looking through some pics I think I'll just go with one shroud at the front. Otherwise my inlet to the Res will be making one hell of a bend to get around the shroud 20mm + fan 32mm Bah screw it, I'll get another 45 rotary and see if I can tuck it around the back corner of the fan. If not I'll run it sans second shroud.


----------



## siffonen

I have going on small mod to my 900D. SSD-mount for my dual samsung 830 by using a plexiglass and some white leds. Also i made a 3-way sli bridge cover, which has EKWB logo in it:


----------



## gliggo

Switched my case from the Cosmos II to the Corsair 900D and upgraded my cards to 2 x 780s - loving the case and the cards are amazing









Happy watercooling to everyone!


----------



## NRD

Okay so I went ahead and bit the bullet and decided to get some Mayhems Pastel green. I went way over what I initially thought I would spend, and ended up dropping $760 but it's going to be worth it! Wish me luck! Can't wait to see that radioactive looking green cooling my 780


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Okay so I went ahead and bit the bullet and decided to get some Mayhems Pastel green. I went way over what I initially thought I would spend, and ended up dropping $760 but it's going to be worth it! Wish me luck! Can't wait to see that radioactive looking green cooling my 780


Good luck! And don't worry, I always spend at least double what I think I am going to


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Okay so I went ahead and bit the bullet and decided to get some Mayhems Pastel green. I went way over what I initially thought I would spend, and ended up dropping $760 but it's going to be worth it! Wish me luck! Can't wait to see that radioactive looking green cooling my 780


Good call!









Premixed coolants may perform a little worse than water but it's only like 1-2C of a difference. It's definitely worth the loss for the awesome looks of the pastel.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switched my case from the Cosmos II to the Corsair 900D and upgraded my cards to 2 x 780s - loving the case and the cards are amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy watercooling to everyone!


WOW!!! NICE MAN!


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switched my case from the Cosmos II to the Corsair 900D and upgraded my cards to 2 x 780s - loving the case and the cards are amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy watercooling to everyone!


Builds like this make me want to forget all about CaseLabs and get a 900D just for the looks of it.


----------



## mikailmohammed

Can someone recommend me a good quite pump? I have a EX360 rad, alphacool xt45 240 and a xt 45 140mm. My current pump is making a weird grinding noise. But it is still working. I want to make my pc as silent as possible. I am also using some noctua fans and geid wings silent for the thicker rads.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Can someone recommend me a good quite pump? I have a EX360 rad, alphacool xt45 240 and a xt 45 140mm. My current pump is making a weird grinding noise. But it is still working. I want to make my pc as silent as possible. I am also using some noctua fans and geid wings silent for the thicker rads.


Laing D5 or Laing DDC (They're both sold by many companies like Swiftech, EK, XSPC... etc). To me the best 2 pumps I've seen next to me. I run a D5 Vario at Speed 5 (max) and it's dead quiet.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Can someone recommend me a good quite pump? I have a EX360 rad, alphacool xt45 240 and a xt 45 140mm. My current pump is making a weird grinding noise. But it is still working. I want to make my pc as silent as possible. I am also using some noctua fans and geid wings silent for the thicker rads.


I recommend Swiftechs 35X

http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x12vdcpump.aspx

monster for how small it is.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Can someone recommend me a good quite pump? I have a EX360 rad, alphacool xt45 240 and a xt 45 140mm. My current pump is making a weird grinding noise. But it is still working. I want to make my pc as silent as possible. I am also using some noctua fans and geid wings silent for the thicker rads.


+1 for D5 & DDC. The DDC is small and very powerful for it's size.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Can someone recommend me a good quite pump? I have a EX360 rad, alphacool xt45 240 and a xt 45 140mm. My current pump is making a weird grinding noise. But it is still working. I want to make my pc as silent as possible. I am also using some noctua fans and geid wings silent for the thicker rads.


D5 is king of silence and reliability.


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [quote name="mikailmohammed" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/49660_20#post_20828430"]Can someone recommend me a good quite pump? I have a EX360 rad, alphacool xt45 240 and a xt 45 140mm. My current pump is making a weird grinding noise. But it is still working. I want to make my pc as silent as possible. I am also using some noctua fans and geid wings silent for the thicker rads.


D5 is king of silence and reliability.[/QUOTE]

D5 what? Liang?

Sent from ULTIMAROM


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> D5 what? Liang?
> 
> Sent from ULTIMAROM


Laing D5, which is named differently deppending on the company selling it, like the Swiftech 655, Swiftech 655-B, EK D5 Vario... etc


----------



## stickg1

So another update on my yellowing/fogging issue. Primochill and I are certain that I was sent PRO instead of Advanced. Today at my doorstep was a 10ft retail package of 7/6ID-5/8OD Advanced LRT Tubing and ~6ft of 3/8ID-5/8OD Advanced LRT. I had only ordered 5ft and 2ft respectively and was able to do my loop twice. Now I have tubing for my next few builds!

So hats off to any Primochill reps lurking. I am very happy!

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/20130919_141503_zps6b13445b.jpg.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> D5 what? Liang?
> 
> Sent from ULTIMAROM


D5 look like: 

DDC Look like: 

Most resellers rename em, so depends on who you like to get an exact model


----------



## SeeThruHead

So, at this time. Which rads would you guys say have the best build quality. I was planning to purchase alphacool rads as they seem like the highest quality from photos and are good low FPI rads but a couple pages back people are going on and on about how bad alphacool products are.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So another update on my yellowing/fogging issue. Primochill and I are certain that I was sent PRO instead of Advanced. Today at my doorstep was a 10ft retail package of 7/6ID-5/8OD Advanced LRT Tubing and ~6ft of 3/8ID-5/8OD Advanced LRT. I had only ordered 5ft and 2ft respectively and was able to do my loop twice. Now I have tubing for my next few builds!
> 
> So hats off to any Primochill reps lurking. I am very happy!
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/20130919_141503_zps6b13445b.jpg.html


Pro is softer then the Advance so that's an immediate difference to distinguish one from the other. Glad to see they sorted this for you


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> So, at this time. Which rads would you guys say have the best build quality. I was planning to purchase alphacool rads as they seem like the highest quality from photos and are good low FPI rads but a couple pages back people are going on and on about how bad alphacool products are.


HWLabs + Aquacomputer are top notch for build quality. My HWLabs SR1s always came w/ flawless fins, can't say that about any other radiator I've ever owned.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> HWLabs + Aquacomputer are top notch for build quality. My HWLabs SR1s always came w/ flawless fins, can't say that about any other radiator I've ever owned.


^This. I use HWlabs pretty exclusively for my rads. Price per performance is great and the build quality is great as you say as well. I love the fin density and form avaliable factors on em too

I have an aquacomputer rad as well and like it, very solid .


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pro is softer then the Advance so that's an immediate difference to distinguish one from the other. Glad to see they sorted this for you


Exactly, my problem tubing was much softer than the 3/4OD Advanced LRT that I owned. That is what was the dead give-a-way. Also the fact that the liquid (whether it was water or Ice White Pastel) was perfect looking in the one run of 3/4OD and the reservoir while the rest of the tubing looked like poo.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*


This KILLED me!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I have going on small mod to my 900D. SSD-mount for my dual samsung 830 by using a plexiglass and some white leds. Also i made a 3-way sli bridge cover, which has EKWB logo in it:


Cool. I like the roughy cut look of the logo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switched my case from the Cosmos II to the Corsair 900D and upgraded my cards to 2 x 780s - loving the case and the cards are amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy watercooling to everyone!


DROOL....


----------



## SeeThruHead

Yeah I had forgot about hardware labs. The sr1 seems to also beat all the other rads in I was interested in at the 1200 rpm range. Thanks.


----------



## Maximus Knight

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> ^This. I use HWlabs pretty exclusively for my rads. Price per performance is great and the build quality is great as you say as well. I love the fin density and form avaliable factors on em too
> 
> I have an aquacomputer rad as well and like it, very solid .


I initially wanted the GTS then a friend told me their designs(HWLabs) are dated. Only the SR-1 is good and he said as good as Alphacool UT60/MONSTA. Should I get a SR-1 lol. Have a EK XT240 in p/p ATM =]


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I initially wanted the GTS then a friend told me their designs(HWLabs) are dated. Only the SR-1 is good and he said as good as Alphacool UT60/MONSTA. Should I get a SR-1 lol. Have a EK XT240 in p/p ATM =]


SR1s perform great around 900rpm and the build/finish quality is stunning. Do it.

... Assuming that's in your ballpark of rpms of course...


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I
> I initially wanted the GTS then a friend told me their designs(HWLabs) are dated. Only the SR-1 is good and he said as good as Alphacool UT60/MONSTA. Should I get a SR-1 lol. Have a EK XT240 in p/p ATM =]


sr1 build quality is certainly better than the alphacool, but when u factor in price/performance, multiple g1/4 ports and features such as plugs and screws to run push/pull. the alphacool rads imo are unbeatable.


----------



## _Killswitch_

I'm just wondering what's the deal with all the 480 rad's being sold out on most websites(well non slim ones anyways). Makes me sad since I need two =(


----------



## WebsterXC

Cases are getting bigger and bigger. Manufacturers are starting to catch on to the ever growing watercooling scene so they're producing cases that will fit bigger and bigger radiators. The Corsair 800D was an incredibly popular case, and now the 900D can support two quads and selling incredibly fast as well. Other examples would be CaseLabs and Little Devil.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhsownsbeta*
> 
> SR1s perform great around 900rpm and the build/finish quality is stunning. Do it.
> 
> ... Assuming that's in your ballpark of rpms of course...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> sr1 build quality is certainly better than the alphacool, but when u factor in price/performance, multiple g1/4 ports and features such as plugs and screws to run push/pull. the alphacool rads imo are unbeatable.


I bought a EK XT240..=\ just b4 he recommended me. But hey, I'm WC'ing my CPU ATM with it. My 780 needs a thick 240








I would use Noise Blocker Blaclsilent Pro PL-2's or the Enermax Magma. EK XT240 is in push/pull ATM with eLoop B12-3(pull) & AP-15(push).


----------



## siffonen

Almost finished my ssd mount, still waiting for the leds.









Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4


----------



## Maximus Knight

God it's making me want to get a 900D. But I like TJ-11 :S


----------



## szeged

hey derick if youre there, any word on those classified blocks being full length like the latest revision of titan blocks? or will they be like the original titans and only cover the essentials?


----------



## tiborrr12

They will not be full lenght, the card is simply too wide, they'll be like original EK-FC Titan block (lenght-wise). It's hard to assure quality on the milling on such big top because it tends to flex.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> They will not be full lenght, the card is simply too wide, they'll be like original EK-FC Titan block (lenght-wise). It's hard to assure quality on the milling on such big top because it tends to flex.


thanks for the heads up, ill still be getting one either way







just wanted an idea of how it was gonna look in the rig







thanks again!


----------



## NRD

Quick question: Do EK blocks come with plugs or do I need to get some? Specifically does the EK-FC SE Plexi Copper Titan block come with them? I doesn't mention them in the product listing or on the EK site.


----------



## tiborrr12

Plugs are enclosed with EACH water block (and product in general) that has more than 2 ports!


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Plugs are enclosed with EACH water block (and product in general) that has more than 2 ports!


Thank you! I got worried there for a minute









Edit: Since you're here, if I were to go with an aftermarket TIM to use with my water block, which one would you suggest?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Thank you! I got worried there for a minute


EK wouldnt leave you hangin like that







one of the best companies there is!


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> EK wouldnt leave you hangin like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one of the best companies there is!


Haha, seems like it when I just asked a question on a random forum (okay OCN is not random) and an EK R&D employee is right here to answer it for me!


----------



## tiborrr12

Consider this a coincidence. I was just sipping coffee and slacking a little bit, spending some work time on the forums


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Consider this a coincidence. I was just sipping coffee and slacking a little bit, spending some work time on the forums


Haha, well now you can say you did some work and go back to drinking your coffee









Oh yea not sure if you saw, but I was wondering what TIM you would recommend using if I was planning to use an aftermarket brand on my new block when it arrives?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Haha, well now you can say you did some work and go back to drinking your coffee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yea not sure if you saw, but I was wondering what TIM you would recommend using if I was planning to use an aftermarket brand on my new block when it arrives?


i believe EK recommends gelid extreme, unless things have changed.


----------



## tiborrr12

Yes, GC-Extreme, this is also what we bundle with our water blocks. Does great at -196°C and also does great at +50°C!


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i believe EK recommends gelid extreme, unless things have changed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Yes, GC-Extreme, this is also what we bundle with our water blocks. Does great at -196°C and also does great at +50°C!


Awesome, thanks guys! I can't wait to take the plunge!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Awesome, thanks guys! I can't wait to take the plunge!


good luck with it, post pics when you do


----------



## robcowboy73

As there is an EK rep on what is the best staff for cleaning a nickle plated block as my is stained form red die plain water will not shift it







EK


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> As there is an EK rep on what is the best staff for cleaning a nickle plated block as my is stained form red die plain water will not shift it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK


ive seen a lot recommend using distilled vinegar and water, after removing the rubber O ring of course.


----------



## robcowboy73

I will give it a go and were can I buy a replacement O-ring for EK Supreme LTX AMD CPU Waterblock. I like to keep a spear handy


----------



## szeged

performance-pcs.com and frozencpu.com sell them in the USA, idk about UK though :x


----------



## tiborrr12

Don't use vinegar. Use mild soap + warm water.

Staining is probably your tubing's plasticizer that has soaked up colour of the coolant.


----------



## robcowboy73

I just found them on EK site and the shipping was three times the price of the parts


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> As there is an EK rep on what is the best staff for cleaning a nickle plated block as my is stained form red die plain water will not shift it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK


Any bathroom cleaner will do,remember to flush the component after.
No acids are required.

EDIT: Niko is on fire this morning apparently....


----------



## Maximus Knight

I'd like to share mine. Just completed it


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I'd like to share mine. Just completed it


Wow, I really like how you've done the tubing. Looks good having the 2 tubes parallel with each other like that.


----------



## kcuestag

Such weird tubing route. Also curious as to why you're using the 3-Way SLI bridge on one card.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Consider this a coincidence. I was just sipping coffee and slacking a little bit, spending some work time on the forums


Get back to work


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Such weird tubing route. Also curious as to why you're using the 3-Way SLI bridge on one card.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Wow, I really like how you've done the tubing. Looks good having the 2 tubes parallel with each other like that.


thank you very much. i thought it was unique positioning tubes side by side. i put the SLI bridge there to protect the slots and also to make pple think i have more than one 780 LOL Zzz


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> thank you very much. i thought it was unique positioning tubes side by side. i put the *SLI bridge there to protect the slots and also to make pple think i have more than one 780 LOL Zzz*


be happy with what you got. take it off.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> be happy with what you got. take it off.


=C i paid for a Maximus V Extreme!


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> i put the SLI bridge there to protect the slots


Sure, but now you have four other unused ports on the bridge, I imagine dust and stuff could build up in there and cause more problems. Or maybe not, I just kinda guessing. BTW, interesting tubing routing method.

I hope to take the plunge soon myself. Right now i'm having a hard time deciding between the EK clean nickel plexi block, or the full clean nickel one









Question: how did you hook up those leds?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> be happy with what you got. take it off.


I agree. Whenever I feel GPU envy I must remind myself that the single 780 I have is more than enough for gaming at 1080p and 3D modelling on dual monitors.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Sure, but now you have four other unused ports on the bridge, I imagine dust and stuff could build up in there and cause more problems. Or maybe not, I just kinda guessing. BTW, interesting tubing routing method.
> 
> I hope to take the plunge soon myself. Right now i'm having a hard time deciding between the EK clean nickel plexi block, or the full clean nickel one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question: how did you hook up those leds?


hmm..that makese sense but my case is closed and has fan filters where intakes are =)

LED's for CPU block i assume? i inserted 2 3mm led's into the block. case lighting is NZXT HUE RGB =]


----------



## DarthBaggins

doesn't mean dust and such wont get into the case as it's not hermetically sealed


----------



## Sunreeper

So has ek said anything about making a waterblock for the new rampage dark board?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> So has ek said anything about making a waterblock for the new rampage dark board?


they hinted at it on their facebook.


----------



## derickwm

We talked about it on Facebook. Unless something unforeseen stops us, we will be making a block for it.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ive seen a lot recommend using distilled vinegar and water, after removing the rubber O ring of course.


As Niko said, absolutely not. Never introduce vinegar into your loop unless it's all you have, and even then make sure it's at least diluted by 10:1, and don't leave it in for more than a few hours. The reason ketchup is popular is because the vinegar in ketchup has been diluted a fair amount by all of the other ingredients, making it safe enough to use.


----------



## Sunreeper

Awesome







I hope it has the CSQ design say what you will I actually really like it especially when the frosting is removed. The nickel CSQ blocks also look amazing.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> As Niko said, absolutely not. Never introduce vinegar into your loop unless it's all you have, and even then make sure it's at least diluted by 10:1, and don't leave it in for more than a few hours. The reason ketchup is popular is because the vinegar in ketchup has been diluted a fair amount by all of the other ingredients, making it safe enough to use.


sorry when i posted it i was under the impression that he had the block disassembled on a table or something, outside of the loop, and was trying to clean it by hand. I would not recommend to just pour vinegar into your res and watch it go lol. I thought he was trying to scrub it or something lol.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it has the CSQ design say what you will I actually really like it especially when the frosting is removed. The nickel CSQ blocks also look amazing.


We haven't decided what variations will be available but since we did decided to do CSQ and clean CSQ versions of the M6E, the R4BE will probably receive the same treatment. Don't quote me on that though as it's definitely not the guaranteed end result.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Wondering EK will make block for the new Formula VI where we can have the armor on it with the blocks. Be cool since ASUS for some reason made it out of of Alum.


----------



## szeged

They are making blocks for the formula, i dont think they would make a block that would require you to take the armor off


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sorry when i posted it i was under the impression that he had the block disassembled on a table or something, outside of the loop, and was trying to clean it by hand. I would not recommend to just pour vinegar into your res and watch it go lol. I thought he was trying to scrub it or something lol.


I posted what I did knowing it was either scenario; it applies to both.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> I posted what I did knowing it was either scenario; it applies to both.


ah, well you learn every day







i was just going off what ive seen recommended in a few threads such as the mayhems club, i had a problem with staining and quite a few people recommended distilled vinegar, but i didnt have any so i gave it a soap bath and viola lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sorry when i posted it i was under the impression that he had the block disassembled on a table or something, outside of the loop, and was trying to clean it by hand. I would not recommend to just pour vinegar into your res and watch it go lol. I thought he was trying to scrub it or something lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I posted what I did knowing it was either scenario; *it applies to both.*
Click to expand...

Very much this.
Acid cleaning,unless its a seriously tatty block with heavy oxidization,is not the way to do it.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i sent you a question in pm b-neg. help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Moving along with a retro case build with no so retro hardware.



My first sleeves...


----------



## NRD

I got my fittings, x-res top combo, EK-FC Copper plexi Titan SE, Vario D5 and EK backplate delivered today. So fun playing around with this stuff, I can't wait till the rad comes on Monday so I can put everything together. I assembled the D5 and X-res and tested what I planned on doing in the case and realized there was no way I was getting the dual shouds/fans on the 200mm rad with the pump return on the right side. Luckily I can use the left side for both intake/return which I don't like the look of really, but there isn't much I can do working in a 600t.

I'm still amazed at the weight of the GPU block, and love how cool it is to the touch, even through the plastic bag it's still sitting in. My only gripe is with the EK backplate, the EK logo isn't aligned properly with the bottom edge of the card. It's not completely off tilt, but it's enough for it to bug me. There is a screw hole that it's covering so it should be possible to pop something through there and get it to come off without scratching the face of the backplate by trying to peel it off from the front. But I'm not confident that the glue will stick back on properly if I try to reapply it. Not a huge deal, but I am going to have to fix it







Luckily the logo on the X-Res was straight as a die









Quick noob question: Is it okay to flush my rad when I first get it with tap water?


----------



## pc-illiterate

as long as you rinse it a few times with distilled.


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> as long as you rinse it a few times with distilled.


Roger that, thanks bud!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> I got my fittings, x-res top combo, EK-FC Copper plexi Titan SE, Vario D5 and EK backplate delivered today. So fun playing around with this stuff, I can't wait till the rad comes on Monday so I can put everything together. I assembled the D5 and X-res and tested what I planned on doing in the case and realized there was no way I was getting the dual shouds/fans on the 200mm rad with the pump return on the right side. Luckily I can use the left side for both intake/return which I don't like the look of really, but there isn't much I can do working in a 600t.
> 
> I'm still amazed at the weight of the GPU block, and love how cool it is to the touch, even through the plastic bag it's still sitting in. My only gripe is with the EK backplate, the EK logo isn't aligned properly with the bottom edge of the card. It's not completely off tilt, but it's enough for it to bug me. There is a screw hole that it's covering so it should be possible to pop something through there and get it to come off without scratching the face of the backplate by trying to peel it off from the front. But I'm not confident that the glue will stick back on properly if I try to reapply it. Not a huge deal, but I am going to have to fix it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily the logo on the X-Res was straight as a die
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick noob question: Is it okay to flush my rad when I first get it with tap water?


You can pop the EK badges off relatively easily, just be careful. The glue is usually sticky enough to put it right back on without worry


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You can pop the EK badges off relatively easily, just be careful. The glue is usually sticky enough to put it right back on without worry


I need to do the same thing with the EK badges. Gonna carefully heat them with a hair dryer. And lightly pry with a little hard plastic spreader. Should do the trick. Only have 2 to change.

A little progress on the Lian Li V 2000 project.


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You can pop the EK badges off relatively easily, just be careful. The glue is usually sticky enough to put it right back on without worry


I got it sorted now and my OCD thanks you


----------



## Tarnix

catching up 505 posts... Will edit this post as long as I have more stuff to say







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Just work for gold plating my ek compression
> 
> 
> 
> Who can resist real gold temptation?
Click to expand...

Me. I don't agree with gold whenever it doesn't server a true purpose. I dislike it's color.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Couple new WIP pics. See worklog for more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4099-1.jpg.html


So clean, it shames my attempts to make MY cable management look "okay"







awesome job








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Nothing wrong with the rig, just something wrong with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its common around here
> 
> *been trying to find some flaws on my rig, but I cant*
> help me lol
Click to expand...

I'm trying to ignore the flaws of mine! D:


----------



## gliggo

Girlfriend's rig, bit of pink for the forum!


----------



## Fulvin

Used an old NB block I had laying around on the GPU with the help of a spacer and it works fairly well. Around 50C load temps with 1.25V. I did some UV additive and Mayhems Biocide in the loop, which turned the blue UV color a lot darker. I hope it the two aren't harmfully reacting with each other.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Girlfriend's rig, bit of pink for the forum!


Pink done right. All pink with black accents would not work as well.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> Used an old NB block I had laying around on the GPU with the help of a spacer and it works fairly well. Around 50C load temps with 1.25V. I did some UV additive and Mayhems Biocide in the loop, which turned the blue UV color a lot darker. I hope it the two aren't harmfully reacting with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip!


man I love seeing GPUs. not sure why. They seem to say "I GOT POWER"









The whole thing looks pretty nice.








I wonder if I should just take my ASUS cards apart and buy two gpu-compatible universal blocks. I wonder how well that would work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent8Strike*
> 
> Just got a new camera and took some good pics of my rig. They are all raw from the camera, no Photoshop or other editing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip


Something is rising, and it's not Jesus...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Over the last few pages are some nice looking builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know if this fits in or not.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: yum


That green/blue effect on your tubing... It,s so pretty, I melt a bit inside.

*EDIT:*
OK, this is going to be a silly question but...
I'm planning to eventually re-do my loop since I'm changing CPU and all in a few months... I have made a few mistakes with the tubing length, and I will add a drain port, so I'm changing my tubing altogether for some primoflex. XSPC tubing turned yellow over time/temp...

How do I get around to take the tubes off my barb fittings? they're so tight! Do I have to cut the tubing parallel to the barb so that it loosens up?









edit2: Finally read everything. That took a while.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Girlfriend's rig, bit of pink for the forum!


Definitely not something you see very often, looks good though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Pink done right. All pink with black accents would not work as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> man I love seeing GPUs. not sure why. They seem to say "I GOT POWER"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The whole thing looks pretty nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if I should just take my ASUS cards apart and buy two gpu-compatible universal blocks. I wonder how well that would work.
> Something is rising, and it's not Jesus...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That green/blue effect on your tubing... It,s so pretty, I melt a bit inside.
> 
> *EDIT:*
> OK, this is going to be a silly question but...
> I'm planning to eventually re-do my loop since I'm changing CPU and all in a few months... I have made a few mistakes with the tubing length, and I will add a drain port, so I'm changing my tubing altogether for some primoflex. XSPC tubing turned yellow over time/temp...
> 
> How do I get around to take the tubes off my barb fittings? they're so tight! Do I have to cut the tubing parallel to the barb so that it loosens up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit2: Finally read everything. That took a while.


I would think drain the system the use a razor blade to cut away the tube to allow you to pull it off a bit easier, but not sure on that.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Girlfriend's rig, bit of pink for the forum!


Looks good but the pastel pink reminds me of pepto bismol.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> How do I get around to take the tubes off my barb fittings? they're so tight! Do I have to cut the tubing parallel to the barb so that it loosens up?


I would cut from the base of the fitting to its edge, but carefully not to scratch the finish. The coolant doesn't get in contact with the sides of the barb, but you could scratch the barb's edge which does get soaked.


----------



## cyphon

Gotta brag a bit here, lol. Definitely got the best girlfriend ever. I had to go on s 2 week business trip, I finally get home and she had made me a workshop in our guest bedroom for all my water cooling stuff and hardware projects. No more working on the floor with bad lighting for me!


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Gotta brag a bit here, lol. Definitely got the best girlfriend ever. I had to go on s 2 week business trip, I finally get home and she had made me a workshop in our guest bedroom for all my water cooling stuff and hardware projects. No more working on the floor with bad lighting for me!


Awesome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would think drain the system the use a razor blade to cut away the tube to allow you to pull it off a bit easier, but not sure on that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> I would cut from the base of the fitting to its edge, but carefully not to scratch the finish. The coolant doesn't get in contact with the sides of the barb, but you could scratch the barb's edge which does get soaked.


Thanks! That's about what I had in mind, thanks for the warning about the tip of the bard


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Gotta brag a bit here, lol. Definitely got the best girlfriend ever. I had to go on s 2 week business trip, I finally get home and she had made me a workshop in our guest bedroom for all my water cooling stuff and hardware projects. No more working on the floor with bad lighting for me!


That's marriage material right there


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Gotta brag a bit here, lol. Definitely got the best girlfriend ever. I had to go on s 2 week business trip, I finally get home and she had made me a workshop in our guest bedroom for all my water cooling stuff and hardware projects. No more working on the floor with bad lighting for me!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



You have an awesome Gal.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looks good but the pastel pink reminds me of pepto bismol.


Oh man I hated that pink crap when I was a kid!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have an awesome Gal.


Using the same GIF twice in one day....I expected better from you...


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Gotta brag a bit here, lol. Definitely got the best girlfriend ever. I had to go on s 2 week business trip, I finally get home and she had made me a workshop in our guest bedroom for all my water cooling stuff and hardware projects. No more working on the floor with bad lighting for me!


Awesome girl you have there. But she'll be disappointed after few days. Your table will be a mess in a jiffy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have an awesome Gal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the same GIF twice in one day....I expected better from you...
Click to expand...

Using GIF's in this thread?


----------



## MiiX

OT: Is a 7mm shroud worth it in terms of performance and noise?
UT60 120mm <-- Shroud <-- AP29 PWM modded.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Using GIF's in this thread?


Using GIF's in this thread, and as an avvy...




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Gotta brag a bit here, lol. Definitely got the best girlfriend ever. I had to go on s 2 week business trip, I finally get home and she had made me a workshop in our guest bedroom for all my water cooling stuff and hardware projects. No more working on the floor with bad lighting for me!


my gf would have finished it for me....









jk, i hope she didnt find your hidden stash of (insert vice here) in your mess...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Is a 7mm shroud worth it in terms of performance and noise?
> UT60 120mm <-- Shroud <-- AP29 PWM modded.


Have you checked out *this*? Or *this*?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Using GIF's in this thread?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using GIF's in this thread, and as an avvy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Using a GIF to answer a gif post.



My avatar is awesome.


----------



## PCModderMike

EDIT: Just saw that^^








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OT: Is a 7mm shroud worth it in terms of performance and noise?
> UT60 120mm <-- Shroud <-- AP29 PWM modded.


Not really an OT question since this is a water cooling club, and various questions do get thrown around.
For performance, don't think you're really notice any improvement by using a shroud....what it will do for noise though, probably quieter. But I can't say for certain since I've never used a shroud personally.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Have you checked out *this*? Or *this*?


Thanks alot, seems like there is little/no benefit in terms of performance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> EDIT: Just saw that^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really an OT question since this is a water cooling club, and various questions do get thrown around.
> For performance, don't think you're really notice any improvement by using a shroud....what it will do for noise though, probably quieter. But I can't say for certain since I've never used a shroud personally.


I didn't expect any performance gains really, but noise is something a wanna dodge :>

Was asking as my future build is going to be inside a SG05, where only one 120mm fan/rad will fit. a 7mm shroud may fit with some modding and was really wondering if it was worth modding the case for a 7mm shroud.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> They will not be full lenght, the card is simply too wide, they'll be like original EK-FC Titan block (lenght-wise). It's hard to assure quality on the milling on such big top because it tends to flex.


Yeah I can understand that.

Will the top be like the original EK-FC Titan block, ie a single piece of acetal or will it be like the Palit and ASUS GPU blocks and be two piece? Also just out of interest is there a reason those blocks are two piece?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> I got it sorted now and my OCD thanks you


I pop them out with a Stanley blade. Had two upside down before.


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Have you checked out *this*? Or *this*?


Thank you very much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Thanks alot, seems like there is little/no benefit in terms of performance.
> I didn't expect any performance gains really, but noise is something a wanna dodge :>
> 
> Was asking as my future build is going to be inside a SG05, where only one 120mm fan/rad will fit. a 7mm shroud may fit with some modding and was really wondering if it was worth modding the case for a 7mm shroud.


Shrouds certainly can improve performance in certain radiators and under certain conditions. I'm not sure what you're drawing your conclusion off of but from what I just read in those two articles and from what I know from my own personal experience with them, shrouds can make a huge difference in cooling performance. Have you never noticed that most every diesel or gas engine's radiator has a shroud on it in a pull configuration?

The trick is finding the optimum shroud thickness/design for your particular radiator. Radiator size/fin density, fan size/design and speed all play a factor here.

It would be awesome if he did a round up test to find optimum shroud configs for a bunch of commonly used WC rads, then we would actually know if it's worth it or not. Or you could always do your own testing. That's what I'm planning on doing when my Phobya 200mm rad gets here. I've also got two 20mm phobya shrouds coming with it, so I plan on playing around with them in my 600T case to see what works best and/or what fits


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Have you never noticed that most every diesel or gas engine's radiator has a shroud on it in a *pull* configuration?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Using a GIF to answer a gif post.
> 
> 
> 
> My avatar is awesome.


Can't decided which is cooler... Bale or Jackson.


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Can't decided which is cooler... Bale or Jackson.


Combine Both, and it makes bacon.


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*


Oops, yea you're right. I don't know why I put push, was thinking about PC rads too much lol I fixed it. A fan in push on a car would block incoming air when the car is in motion as well, which is probably one of the reasons it's mounted in pull..


----------



## kingchris

close, its only in pull because all the other coolers have to be forward of the rad, a/c ,trans and p/s are mounted forward of the rad with fans attached. also mounted in a pull config to stop debris blocking fan blades.. and causing overheat.







(too many years in the motor game)


----------



## _REAPER_

What is the best kit for cooling RAM (Dominator Platinum)


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What is the best kit for cooling RAM (Dominator Platinum)


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=34466

made with the corsair dominators in mind


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What is the best kit for cooling RAM (Dominator Platinum)


Due to ram not actually worth being WC,it doesnt matter in the slightest,choose the kit you like the look of most.


----------



## ZnJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What is the best kit for cooling RAM (Dominator Platinum)


I don't believe the EK Monarch will work with the Platinum, found this here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1329254/dominator-platinum-watercooling/10

Seems they are waiting to hear back from Corsair


----------



## tiborrr12

A new workstation for my father I built yesterday:

Ci7 3770K @ 4700MHz, 1.26V (use to go 6.72GHz under LN2 for Pi32M)
MSI Z77 MPower (leftover from MSI MOA qualifier)
4x4GB DDR3-1600 (leftover I had, will be upgraded to 32GB once the prices settle)
2x 120GB Samsung 840 EVO in RAID0
AMD FirePro W7000
Seventeam V-Force 650W PSU (Seasonic design)
Silverstone Raven RV-02

All EK water cooled:
- EK-Supremacy
- EK-VGA Supremacy
- EK-D5 Vario X-RES 100
- EK-CoolStream PE 360 (2x180) prototype
- Mayhem Pastel White /w black dye to make it "MSI heatsink" grey

De-lidded - Coolaboratory Liquid Pro between core and block, full load went down by about 15°C. - from mid 75s (IBT with AVX) to high 50s / low 60s (°C).

Very frustrated with the MSI board, doesn't run 4 sticks properly. Every reboot it puts the memory divider to 1333 and Vdimm to 1.5V. Apparently there's no workaround. Will get replaced this week with Maximus V Formula and this board goes to RMA, I'll take something else.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 
> 
> A new workstation for my father I built yesterday:
> 
> Ci7 3770K @ 4700MHz, 1.26V (use to go 6.72GHz under LN2 for Pi32M)
> MSI Z77 MPower (leftover from MSI MOA qualifier)
> 4x4GB DDR3-1600 (leftover I had, will be upgraded to 32GB once the prices settle)
> 2x 120GB Samsung 840 EVO in RAID0
> AMD FirePro W7000
> Seventeam V-Force 650W PSU (Seasonic design)
> Silverstone Raven RV-02
> 
> All EK water cooled:
> - EK-Supremacy
> - EK-VGA Supremacy
> - EK-D5 Vario X-RES 100
> - EK-CoolStream PE 360 (2x180) prototype
> - Mayhem Pastel White /w black dye to make it "MSI heatsink" grey
> 
> De-lidded - Coolaboratory Liquid Pro between core and block, full load went down by about 15°C. - from mid 75s (IBT with AVX) to high 50s / low 60s (°C).
> 
> Very frustrated with the MSI board, doesn't run 4 sticks properly. Every reboot it puts the memory divider to 1333 and Vdimm to 1.5V. Apparently there's no workaround. Will get replaced this week with Maximus V Formula and this board goes to RMA, I'll take something else.


Is norprene tubing platiziser free?


----------



## derickwm

Yes, the only "guaranteed" one to not have it.


----------



## tiborrr12

Besides EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black, which is also rubber type tubing.


----------



## Plutonium10

I really like the matte black look and chemical resistance of norprene tubing but I wish it didn't come with the white writing on it (is there a good way of taking it off?) Also the bend radius isn't very good even for 3/8-5/8 but it's perfectly manageable with a few angled fittings.


----------



## tiborrr12

EK ZMT tubing has this issues solved - no writing (apart from hardly visible 'ekwb') and nice bend radius characteristics.


----------



## Trolle BE

anyone here used http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/thermal-interface-materials/thermal-greases/ek-tim-indigo-xtreme-intel-1155and1156.html
looks pretty good to me,if its any good i might use it when i upgrade my loop


----------



## szeged

yes it is pretty good.


----------



## mr. biggums

primoflex advanced LRT clear starting to yellow


----------



## tiborrr12

As long as it doesn't leach plasticizer it's good if you ask me. All PVC tubing will eventually cloud (the water soaked in the PVC makes it cloudy) and discolour, there is no way around it.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK ZMT tubing has this issues solved - no writing (apart from hardly visible 'ekwb') and nice bend radius characteristics.


Hmm, sounds good. I will probably pick some up when I need new tubing.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> primoflex advanced LRT clear starting to yellow


Just installed some in my rig... curious to see what happens to mine using EK Blood Red coolant. How long did it take to start normal clouding? I know the plastisizer free TYGON only takes a couple days to cloud. Even though it's normal. Seems too soon...


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> primoflex advanced LRT clear starting to yellow


Does the tubing feel soft? This happened to me, turns out I was sent Pro instead of Advanced by the retailer.


----------



## mr. biggums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> primoflex advanced LRT clear starting to yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just installed some in my rig... curious to see what happens to mine using EK Blood Red coolant. How long did it take to start normal clouding? I know the plastisizer free TYGON only takes a couple days to cloud. Even though it's normal. Seems too soon...
Click to expand...

Mine has been in the system for about a month now and the yellowing started to occur not really clouding noticeable yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> primoflex advanced LRT clear starting to yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the tubing feel soft? This happened to me, turns out I was sent Pro instead of Advanced by the retailer.
Click to expand...

still solid as rock I have some of the old lrt here it's noticeable different feeling, just kind of annoying must be a bad batch or it's just how it goes.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> primoflex advanced LRT clear starting to yellow


All clear tubing will yellow eventually. If you want clear tubing to stay clear your only real choice is acrylic.


----------



## ernieleo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> 
> 
> A new workstation for my father I built yesterday:


Excellent looking build.........I'm old enough to be your father......want to build me one to.......hell I'm old enough to be your grandfather


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> EK ZMT tubing has this issues solved - no writing (apart from hardly visible 'ekwb') and nice bend radius characteristics.


Ever going to release in 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Looking for a budget choice case to re-locate "My Current Project".

Can't be white and not to plain looking, yet not to complex either. I can change some things in the rig, like coolant colour, ram and can even give the case a small paint job (just nothing to major)

The boss (WIFE) is telling me it must be a red and black theme, but more a blood red then a Orange red.

What are your thoughts?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Looking for a budget choice case to re-locate "My Current Project".
> 
> Can't be white and not to plain looking, yet not to complex either. I can change some things in the rig, like coolant colour, ram and can even give the case a small paint job (just nothing to major)
> 
> The boss (WIFE) is telling me it must be a red and black theme, but more a blood red then a Orange red.
> 
> What are your thoughts?


Phantom 630? 530? 820? Big, not plain looking and decent WC features


----------



## Daredevil 720

Would the EK ZMT be better than Primo Adv. LRT in terms of maintenance? I mean, clouding aside (which is just aesthetic) is there anything else worrying about the Adv. LRT?


----------



## szeged

hey guys quick question, recently had to clean out one of my EK titan blocks, got it all clean, got the super annoying ass o ring back in, filled it with some water to see how the o ring held up, everything seems fine leak wise, but i am having a problem with water getting onto the part of the block thats not in the water channel, around the gpu core area and what not. its not leaking at all, but i was wondering if the water getting up to the top of the nickle block would cause any problems at all. i would post pics but i only have a phone on me atm and you wouldnt be able to see anyways.


----------



## lowfat

A few updated pics of my WIP PC-A77F. See log for more pics.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4231-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4222-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4227-1.jpg.html


----------



## protzman

quick question, 3/8 id x 1/2 od the thinnest of the tubing? amirite?


----------



## Ftimster




----------



## Ftimster

Just put my new 4960x in and guess I got lucky 1.4 vcore 4.6 all cores runs very cool and very fast!!! Sorry in advance for the double post.......


----------



## derickwm

I wouldn't say that's terribly lucky...


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*


omg, fellow alaska bro! and you're a watercooler too







. just installed dem heat killaz...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A few updated pics of my WIP PC-A77F. See log for more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4231-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4222-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4227-1.jpg.html


what motherboard is that?


----------



## gdubc

Gigabyte z87 ud5h looks to be.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> what motherboard is that?


Gigabyte Z87X-UD5H.


----------



## gdubc

Like a ninja


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Gigabyte Z87X-UD5H.


Did you paint the heatsinks?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Did you paint the heatsinks?


I painted some of the trim pieces on the heatsinks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Like a ninja


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey guys quick question, recently had to clean out one of my EK titan blocks, got it all clean, got the super annoying ass o ring back in, filled it with some water to see how the o ring held up, everything seems fine leak wise, but i am having a problem with water getting onto the part of the block thats not in the water channel, around the gpu core area and what not. its not leaking at all, but i was wondering if the water getting up to the top of the nickle block would cause any problems at all. i would post pics but i only have a phone on me atm and you wouldnt be able to see anyways.


sorry if it got lost in all the posts, if anyone can help me out on this it would be much appreciated.

pic of the area where water is -


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A few updated pics of my WIP PC-A77F. See log for more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4231-1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4222-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4227-1.jpg.html


Love that sleeving look.


----------



## NRD

Testing out a loop I set up to flush my rad when it arrives tomorrow, figured I'd flush the GPU while I'm at it. The return line going back to that rez (plastic bin) has a Brita water filter on the end of it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sorry if it got lost in all the posts, if anyone can help me out on this it would be much appreciated.
> 
> pic of the area where water is -


Liquid will get into those parts as it doesn't make a 100% seal w/ the block and plexi. Its normal









Btw, grab some silicone grease (plumbing section of hardware store) to keep the o-ring in place when re-assembling.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Liquid will get into those parts as it doesn't make a 100% seal w/ the block and plexi. Its normal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, grab some silicone grease (plumbing section of hardware store) to keep the o-ring in place when re-assembling.


the O ring is fine, nothing leaking as far as the O ring goes, but for some reason i guess the block and plexi arent connecting correctly right there, ill try to redo it and see whats up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the O ring is fine, nothing leaking as far as the O ring goes, but for some reason i guess the block and plexi arent connecting correctly right there, ill try to redo it and see whats up.


It wouldn't matter as its not design to make a 100% seal at those spots. The channels are there to guide the flow of liquid but those small pockets will get liquid on them. If it bothers you, try redoing the screws but be careful in over torquing or breaking the screws/top.


----------



## wermad

This is just settled in there but there are some parts where the liquid over flows past the channel(s) (near the top but the ports).

Btw, yup, that's some small debris there. Already took care of it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It wouldn't matter as its not design to make a 100% seal at those spots. The channels are there to guide the flow of liquid but those small pockets will get liquid on them. If it bothers you, try redoing the screws but be careful in over torquing or breaking the screws/top.


well i just wanted to make sure it wasnt gonna cause any problems because i plan on giving this block away in an upcoming thread to a lucky titan/780 owner who wants to add their gpu to their loop but spent all their money on their cards


----------



## Juthos

Upcoming full block for asus maximus vi impact by Bitspower:






The included audio card will fit.

ETA a couple of weeks.


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I wouldn't say that's terribly lucky...


well let me put It this way that's just out of the box and I'm already faster than my previous 3960x at 4.8 i have been benching most of the day its faster... now I will start pushing on I'm not completely delusional I paid a lot of money for this 10 percent increase in performance if that but on to 4.8 and beyond!!!! shout out to my fellow Alaskan computer junkie we both got it made in this cold air!!!!!


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> omg, fellow alaska bro! and you're a watercooler too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . just installed dem heat killaz...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hay I lived in anchorage for years Diomnd high!!!!


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A few updated pics of my WIP PC-A77F. See log for more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4231-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4222-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4227-1.jpg.html


Oooh very nice. Ever thought about painting the battery?

Heres what I've been working on:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> hay I lived in anchorage for years Diomnd high!!!!


im not originally from here (im from cali) but ive been living here for over 4 years. awesome setup you have there


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Would the EK ZMT be better than Primo Adv. LRT in terms of maintenance? I mean, clouding aside (which is just aesthetic) is there anything else worrying about the Adv. LRT?


Not at all. Best tubing I've ever used and no dramas for me. The Pro I had was a mess but Advanced is good. The clear I had didn't stain badly at all. I use black now with clear coolant to avoid dramas with coolant though.

I'd be keen to try the EK tubing though if they do it in 3/4 OD. I'd love matt black instead of gloss black.


----------



## SeeThruHead

I've got the duralene tubing on my radiator, moved the radiator around a bit and the tubing pops out. It's too soft for the compression fittings to get a good hold on it. I wonder if the EK tubing is the same.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Looking for a budget choice case to re-locate "My Current Project".
> 
> Can't be white and not to plain looking, yet not to complex either. I can change some things in the rig, like coolant colour, ram and can even give the case a small paint job (just nothing to major)
> 
> The boss (WIFE) is telling me it must be a red and black theme, but more a blood red then a Orange red.
> 
> What are your thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Phantom 630? 530? 820? Big, not plain looking and decent WC features
Click to expand...

I understand cases are a personal thing, but any other input?







The BOSS is like'n the look of the Bitfenix XL Shinobi.

But would it not look odd having 240mm rads in a such big case?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I understand cases are a personal thing, but any other input?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BOSS is like'n the look of the Bitfenix XL Shinobi.
> 
> But would it not look odd having 240mm rads in a such big case?


I guess the oddity would be personal. So long as ur runs are well thought out, temps are good, there's no reason to detest it at all IMO


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums*
> 
> primoflex advanced LRT clear starting to yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just installed some in my rig... curious to see what happens to mine using EK Blood Red coolant. How long did it take to start normal clouding? I know the plastisizer free TYGON only takes a couple days to cloud. Even though it's normal. Seems too soon...
Click to expand...

Mine already 4 months now. Still clear with Mayhems Pastel coolant.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Oooh very nice. Ever thought about painting the battery?
> 
> Heres what I've been working on:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet! What did you use to paint those with?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A few updated pics of my WIP PC-A77F. See log for more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4231-1.jpg.html


Sometimes I wish I would have bought that block instead... That looks amazing with the coolant running through that connector.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Oooh very nice. Ever thought about painting the battery?
> 
> Heres what I've been working on:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What did you use on the battery? I was thinking about it yesterday. I'll try it out when I try to polish my caps.


----------



## cyphon

What gauge wire and sleeve you guys use for single braiding your cables?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What gauge wire and sleeve you guys use for single braiding your cables?


18AWG wire + approximately 2mm sleeving.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Sometimes I wish I would have bought that block instead... That looks amazing with the coolant running through that connector.


CSQ FTW. I love the polished single link bridges.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What did you use on the battery? I was thinking about it yesterday. I'll try it out when I try to polish my caps.


Just Rustoleum flat black universal paint and primer. Same Paint everywhere else. Just stuck it down on a piece of tape, with a tiny sliver covering where the side connects to the contact.


----------



## Unhooked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A few updated pics of my WIP PC-A77F. See log for more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4231-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4222-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4227-1.jpg.html


How do you get the tubing to bend like that?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unhooked*
> 
> How do you get the tubing to bend like that?


its acrylic tubing

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Hey guys!

I'm proud to be part of this club (hopefully) at last! Here's my...sort of..build log and I'm glad to be part of the watercooling master-race!

Here are some pictures of the end-resullt:


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kipsofthemud*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> I'm proud to be part of this club
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (hopefully) at last! Here's my...sort of..build log and I'm glad to be part of the watercooling master-race!
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the end-resullt:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice... very clean...


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kipsofthemud*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> I'm proud to be part of this club (hopefully) at last! Here's my...sort of..build log and I'm glad to be part of the watercooling master-race!
> 
> Here are some pictures of the end-resullt:


Nice build man! So clean... it makes me miss my 700D.


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Thanks a lot, it means more to me than you'd think


----------



## air tree

This is my first build but what waterblock do you think would look better? I'm going for a mostly all white build with the accents of purple.

What do you guys think would look better.
 This would have purple mayhems coolant running through it.

Or this


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> This is my first build but what waterblock do you think would look better? I'm going for a mostly all white build with the accents of purple.
> 
> What do you guys think would look better.
> This would have purple mayhems coolant running through it.
> 
> Or this


If running mayhem go for the clear top one...


----------



## snef

Yes clear one and paint the metal bracket white


----------



## derickwm

Depends on the rest of your components I'd say.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends on the rest of your components I'd say.


well, if aesthetics doesn't matter. then the cheaper clear acrylic should suffice. the clean full nickel wouldnt perform any better


----------



## BonzaiTree

Hey guys n' gals, sorry if this is in the wrong spot, but does anyone have a cpu block for sale?

Just bought some watercooling parts off of another OCN member but their block wasn't compatible.

I need an AM3+ block or a block with an AM3+ plate still in production.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Hey guys n' gals, sorry if this is in the wrong spot, but does anyone have a cpu block for sale?
> 
> Just bought some watercooling parts off of another OCN member but their block wasn't compatible.
> 
> I need an AM3+ block or a block with an AM3+ plate still in production.


Which block did you buy? Might be a compatible bracket/kit to make it fit. For more block buying options, hit the marketplace.


----------



## kpoeticg

+1 on the marketplace


----------



## BonzaiTree

Hey guys,

I have been looking in the marketplace, and found another one that would be perfect!
Except it's missing mounting screws and I can only find them on frozen pc--and shipping on them to Canada is HORRENDOUS.

Oh, and it was an Apogee GTZ--and they did sell AM3 brackets but I couldn't find any in stock anywhere.

So I didn't buy it. All good! Just need a block now.


----------



## Zamoldac

Finally done with the "downgrade" _(went from a 990FX/ FX8350 to my current rig)_ and window mod on my rig.



Time to focus on GTA V







!


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have been looking in the marketplace, and found another one that would be perfect!
> Except it's missing mounting screws and I can only find them on frozen pc--and shipping on them to Canada is HORRENDOUS.
> 
> Oh, and it was an Apogee GTZ--and they did sell AM3 brackets but I couldn't find any in stock anywhere.
> 
> So I didn't buy it. All good! Just need a block now.


Yes, shipping to Canada is terrible, isn't it? I find it's often cheaper to buy things from Aquatuning. They have the Apogee HD block in stock and I think Swiftech will send you an AM3 adapter upon request for the cost of shipping. Not sure how much that would cost.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Oooh very nice. Ever thought about painting the battery?
> 
> Heres what I've been working on:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Aren't the IO components on the back side of the motherboard supposed to be in good electrical contact with the IO backplate and the case? Something to do with static electricity and grounds and stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Not at all. Best tubing I've ever used and no dramas for me. The Pro I had was a mess but Advanced is good. The clear I had didn't stain badly at all. I use black now with clear coolant to avoid dramas with coolant though.
> 
> I'd be keen to try the EK tubing though if they do it in 3/4 OD. I'd love matt black instead of gloss black.


I'm contemplating changing to silver fittings / black tubing. Could you post a few pictures of your black Adv. LRT? I'd love to see it.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Aren't the IO components on the back side of the motherboard supposed to be in good electrical contact with the IO backplate and the case? Something to do with static electricity and grounds and stuff.


asus motherboards come with a foam backed i/o panel to help with vibration noises. no grounding needs as they are grounded to the case by being connected(soldered) to the mobo.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Yes, shipping to Canada is terrible, isn't it? I find it's often cheaper to buy things from Aquatuning. They have the Apogee HD block in stock and I think Swiftech will send you an AM3 adapter upon request for the cost of shipping. Not sure how much that would cost.


This is correct. Just PM me and I can send you instructions on how to obtain the AMD bracket if you decide to go with the Apogee HD.


----------



## Alfaa

I haven't posted in a LONG time, but here's our latest project. All the clear links are plastic CrystalLink tubes.

Next step is hard copper!












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm really debating on running a copper tubing system for mine just due to discounts through part supplier accounts w/ my shop (automotive)


----------



## gdubc

Has anyone checked *this* out? Seemed interesting, but that price!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Has anyone checked *this* out? Seemed interesting, but that price!


Someone posted it to the [NEWS] section here, and I was looking at it....

I mean, maybe if CaseLabs, Silverstone, or Lian Li never existed, _sure_, I'd buy one... But in this universe, there's better for that money!

Thanks - T


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> Finally done with the "downgrade" _(went from a 990FX/ FX8350 to my current rig)_ and window mod on my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Time to focus on GTA V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Awesome... Just modding my side panels on my V2000... Cool to see others rockin some ol' school cases. It's a huge challenge to make them work with no cable / hose routing options.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Has anyone checked *this* out? Seemed interesting, but that price!


Love the fact that they use aluminum over ugly pressed steel. However the case itself looks awful. To me it looks like they grabbed a Mac Pro and decided to make it ugly.


----------



## gdubc

Or a prodigy on roids.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Has anyone checked *this* out? Seemed interesting, but that price!
> 
> 
> 
> Love the fact that they use aluminum over ugly pressed steel. However the case itself looks awful. To me it looks like they grabbed a Mac Pro and decided to make it ugly.
Click to expand...

I doubt you could make a Mac Pro that ugly if you ran it over with a truck, set it on fire, and pissed it out. . . . .

I also doubt its build quality is any better than any other Phobya product.

Darlene


----------



## gdubc

But Darlene, what do you really think about it?lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> But Darlene, what do you really think about it?lol


It's lovely . . . .


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Has anyone checked *this* out? Seemed interesting, but that price!
> 
> 
> 
> Love the fact that they use aluminum over ugly pressed steel. However the case itself looks awful. To me it looks like they grabbed a Mac Pro and decided to make it ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I doubt you could make a Mac Pro that ugly if you ran it over with a truck, set it on fire, and pissed it out. . . . .
> 
> I also doubt its build quality is any better than any other Phobya product.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Both former and latter +1,Phobya is budget junk . Avoid .


----------



## wermad

If you guys want to discuss the Phobya case:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1426434/btn-phobya-black-owl-preview

Read my op, I'm not the only one who shares the same sentiment that Mick64 should have won.

ok, enough







already.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I doubt you could make a Mac Pro that ugly if you ran it over with a truck, set it on fire, and pissed it out. . . . .
> 
> I also doubt its build quality is any better than any other Phobya product.
> 
> Darlene


LOL!!


----------



## B3L13V3R

One side filed. 3 sides to go. This should provide some nice airflow. And go with my CSQ'ish theme.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> One side filed. 3 sides to go. This should provide some nice airflow. And go with my CSQ'ish theme.


Punch or drill?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I'll be incorporating some of this acrylic material in my build since it simulates water, but I'm not so sure about the build name "Waterworks". I was strongly considering the title "The Liquidator" instead. Once I physically get my hands on the precut pieces of this material, I'll officially start my build log.


----------



## cyphon

@Profezzor X, I really hope you are illuminating that piece of crazy acrylic


----------



## Sunreeper

Where does one get a piece of acrylic like that?


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'll be incorporating some of this acrylic material in my build since it simulates water, but I'm not so sure about the build name "Waterworks". I was strongly considering the title "The Liquidator" instead. Once I physically get my hands on the precut pieces of this material, I'll officially start my build log.
> /w192/Profezzor_X/PC%20Build/IMAG1478.jpg[/IMG][/URL]


"Waterworld" is what I'd go with.


----------



## derickwm

Wow that's a cool chunk. Nice find.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys back for some help,ordered my 750D and now i want to get 2 rads (1 x EX360 & 1 x EX 240),just wanted to know if these rads are good or i should go with the AX version of both....? Also what fans would be ideal to use on these rads,im thinking corsair sp's....


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> "Waterworld" is what I'd go with.


"Waterworld" and "The Liquidator" are both cool names.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys back for some help,ordered my 750D and now i want to get 2 rads (1 x EX360 & 1 x EX 240),just wanted to know if these rads are good or i should go with the AX version of both....? Also what fans would be ideal to use on these rads,im thinking corsair sp's....


AX is pretty much exactly the same but w/ a removable and IMO better looking case.

And I will continue to always suggest GT AP-15s. They have a great noise profile. I also like Noiseblocker eLoops but they are more expensive. However they do come w/ PWM models.


----------



## Pheozero

Speaking of eLoops, I want to buy different fans because my Yate Loons are a bit too loud for me. Does it matter if it's the B12-1 or B12-2 version for some SR-1 Rads?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Punch or drill?


Sadly... drill...







I don't have nice tools, or even a real work bench. But I am motivated to make something unique but really clean and modern.

Took forever but I got the panel in the pic filed on both sides. Just need to file the other panel tomorrow night, then they'll be ready for sanding and then paint.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'll be incorporating some of this acrylic material in my build since it simulates water, but I'm not so sure about the build name "Waterworks". I was strongly considering the title "The Liquidator" instead. Once I physically get my hands on the precut pieces of this material, I'll officially start my build log.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's real nice there...


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Has anyone checked *this* out? Seemed interesting, but that price!


Vomits.


----------



## thestache

This is never fun but these were particularly annoying.




Also gammods finally have EK Z87X OC blocks in stock again so ordered some of those and when they arrive and I've polished the case I'll finally be able to start my build. Going to build with a single GTX Titan and throw the second in with or without a block before BF4 comes out. Decided to be nice and pay for the girlfriends tattoo removal. Sigh. Being single is so much better, can't imagine how horrible it is being married and having to not be selfish all the time. Hat off to you guys.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Actually thought the same thing, lol, about that case and on the significant other front mine wants me to build her a rig too lol


----------



## siffonen

Bought the coldzero midplate for my 900D, ssd-mount is complete, only led are still missing.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> Sigh. Being single is so much better, can't imagine how horrible it is being married and having to not be selfish all the time. Hat off to you guys.


Marriage is just the start. Wait until you have kids. Do you know how enticing vandal switches are to a three year old?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhsownsbeta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> Sigh. Being single is so much better, can't imagine how horrible it is being married and having to not be selfish all the time. Hat off to you guys.
> 
> 
> 
> Marriage is just the start. Wait until you have kids. Do you know how enticing vandal switches are to a three year old?
Click to expand...

Not very once they have 240v going thru them....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not very once they have 240v going thru them....


240v don't scare me as a parent, finding toy soldiers, cars, pencils, Lego men body parts inside my case scares me.

Let alone when I leave a screwdriver or any other tool laying around







children can destroy things in an instance.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhsownsbeta*
> 
> Marriage is just the start. Wait until you have kids. Do you know how enticing vandal switches are to a three year old?


Yeah, they can be younger than that and start pushing buttons...
And you can't really just shoo them out of the room; mine is very attached to us (needy type), and when I'm sitting working, she wants to help all the time!

She'll pick up a screwdriver, and before I know it, she's trying to screw in or out something that daddy was just trying to do himself.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 240v don't scare me as a parent, finding toy soldiers, cars, pencils, Lego men body parts inside my case scares me.
> 
> Let alone when I leave a screwdriver or any other tool laying around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> children can destroy things in an instance.


So true...

And to the first comment about marriage, it's not really about the "selfish vs. selfless" aspect, it is more about sharing most things, and then sparing some for personal stuff.

Not to mention, if you're the sole breadwinner like I am, I pretty much call the shots...









...

Sort of.









Thanks - T


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 240v don't scare me as a parent, finding toy soldiers, cars, pencils, Lego men body parts inside my case scares me.
> 
> Let alone when I leave a screwdriver or any other tool laying around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> children can destroy things in an instance.


You don't even need to leave tools laying around!

Apparently the dust caps on my paradigm studios look a lot like buttons...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not married but my g/f has a 1.5 yr old luckily my case is out of her reach along w/ anything else of value I have, which things will change once she and I have a place together. lol







But yeah kids get into all sorts of crap just hard to keep an eye on them all the time,


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone else getting Aquaero 6? I just pre-ordered the PRO version.


----------



## cyphon

Lol, I just thought about it and the horror of walking into the room to discover a lone Lego brick sitting in the bottom of my wc computer as evidence..........

Like a horror film lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Anyone else getting Aquaero 6? I just pre-ordered the PRO version.


Oooh Fancy, I want for the small setup I'm piecing together now for my gutted build's GPU.


----------



## Maximus Knight

I guess we all were once kids..


----------



## Yondersoup

I'm finally looking to build my next PC and I want this one to be under water. This is the list of parts i have picked out for it:



It's all going in a CM Stryker with a 4770K and an EVGA 770 card with ACX cooler.

The biggest potential problem is that the XSPC kit comes with 7/16" x 5/8" fittings but the tubing I want to use is only available in 3/8" x 5/8", would I be able to make that work or would the extra 1/16" on the inner diameter for the fittings be a problem with the hose?

The Cooling Configurator resource from EK says that uses a reference PCB and i couldn't find anything that said otherwise but i also couldn't find anything else confirming it so does anyone else know if it is?

Has anyone tried the Akasa 6 channel V2 fan controller that is on the list above? It was the cheapest and cleanest controller I saw and liked.

The XSPC AX rads, from what I've read, run better at lower fan speeds and don't benefit as much from higher speeds so I was planning on running them in just pull, are there any other fans that you would recommend over the AP-15s? I prefer performance over keeping it quiet to an extent.


----------



## DarthBaggins

on the fittings I would think you should be able to change them out to the size you want/need.


----------



## Yondersoup

Totally missed that I can change the fitting size, thanks!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Not married but my g/f has a 1.5 yr old luckily my case is out of her reach along w/ anything else of value I have, which things will change once she and I have a place together. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah kids get into all sorts of crap just hard to keep an eye on them all the time,


getting married in a year, I love kids
but you guys scares the hell out of me

guess I'm gonna make a secure mancave and lock it when Im not around
finding lego in your case is one thing

stepping on to one is another thing zzzzzzzzz


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Bought the coldzero midplate for my 900D, ssd-mount is complete, only led are still missing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like how you mounted the SSD's gives me an idea how to clean up mine. What did you use to cut through the cold zero plate to route your tubing? I was thinking of using that myself for my 900D and wanted to install pass through fittings on the plate to get my pumps hidden under the plate and also route the tubing to the bottom rad.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> getting married in a year, I love kids
> but you guys scares the hell out of me
> 
> guess I'm gonna make a secure mancave and lock it when Im not around
> finding lego in your case is one thing
> 
> stepping on to one is another thing zzzzzzzzz


You don't have to be scared at all. It's called Duct Tape. That stuff solves everything.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You don't have to be scared at all. It's called Duct Tape. That stuff solves everything.


Ha!


----------



## gdubc

You can always take the mental approach and have monsters guard your stuff.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yondersoup*
> 
> I'm finally looking to build my next PC and I want this one to be under water. This is the list of parts i have picked out for it:
> 
> 
> 
> It's all going in a CM Stryker with a 4770K and an EVGA 770 card with ACX cooler.
> 
> The biggest potential problem is that the XSPC kit comes with 7/16" x 5/8" fittings but the tubing I want to use is only available in 3/8" x 5/8", would I be able to make that work or would the extra 1/16" on the inner diameter for the fittings be a problem with the hose?
> 
> The Cooling Configurator resource from EK says that uses a reference PCB and i couldn't find anything that said otherwise but i also couldn't find anything else confirming it so does anyone else know if it is?
> 
> Has anyone tried the Akasa 6 channel V2 fan controller that is on the list above? It was the cheapest and cleanest controller I saw and liked.
> 
> The XSPC AX rads, from what I've read, run better at lower fan speeds and don't benefit as much from higher speeds so I was planning on running them in just pull, are there any other fans that you would recommend over the AP-15s? I prefer performance over keeping it quiet to an extent.


You could go with our kit... comes with that tubing and of course the proper fittings to match. Our 770 blocks are a little less expensive as well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> getting married in a year, I love kids
> but you guys scares the hell out of me
> 
> guess I'm gonna make a secure mancave and lock it when Im not around
> finding lego in your case is one thing
> 
> stepping on to one is another thing zzzzzzzzz


just keep things out of their reach, works for me so far, lol.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You could go with our kit... comes with that tubing and of course the proper fittings to match. Our 770 blocks are a little less expensive as well.


Plus the reservoir is a lot easier to fill and it includes the coolant which is much better than the XSPC stuff (although the XSPC kits do not include coolant).

I really like the AX radiators from XSPC but after my recent experience with their support or lack there of, I refuse to buy any more of their products. I had to get the folks from FrozenCPU to help get contact info for XSPC support as they do not respond to support requests made through their site and even then I'm still waiting for them to respond.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Great news! Alphacool wants me to jump through flaming hoops to get my rad RMA'd. lol I would rather sell them for scrap copper!









Anywho, I'll be ordering two new 360mm rads Friday and was wondering what would go well with AP14's in push/pull?

Anyone try out the Bitspower rads yet?


----------



## derickwm

We just released our new EK PE radiators


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We just released our new EK PE radiators


40 fpi is..1500 rpm work ok in pull???


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We just released our new EK PE radiators


Noted, I need another 480 for my 900D to run a bench but sadly no stock @ Frozen CPU or PPC's


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Plus the reservoir is a lot easier to fill and it includes the coolant which is much better than the XSPC stuff (although the XSPC kits do not include coolant).
> 
> I really like the AX radiators from XSPC but after my recent experience with their support or lack there of, I refuse to buy any more of their products. I had to get the folks from FrozenCPU to help get contact info for XSPC support as they do not respond to support requests made through their site and even then I'm still waiting for them to respond.


Yeah, you are right about their support. I was trying to get measurements for one of their accessory type products and never even got a reply. Lame sauce


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We just released our new EK PE radiators


I've been liking the look of those as well...







Not to mention they'll be right at home with all those EK blocks!
Edit: I was thinking of getting the XTX 360!


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Noted, I need another 480 for my 900D to run a bench but sadly no stock @ Frozen CPU or PPC's


Nevermind, I just found them on Frozen CPU and couldnt help but ad to cart!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Noted, I need another 480 for my 900D to run a bench but sadly no stock @ Frozen CPU or PPC's


Dazmode?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Noted, I need another 480 for my 900D to run a bench but sadly no stock @ Frozen CPU or PPC's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nevermind, I just found them on Frozen CPU and couldnt help but ad to cart!
Click to expand...


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Dazmode?


Found them at Frozen CPU, they just dont have them linked on their EK Product page

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21321/ex-rad-647/EK_High_Performance_CoolStream_480_PE_Series_Liquid_Cooling_Radiator_EK-CoolStream_PE_480_Quad.html?tl=g30c95s570

Now to compare this with my current 480's and see who wins!


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We just released our new EK PE radiators


Well I think I found my new rads of choice for my 900D build. I was looking for radiators with a high fpi.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Noted, I need another 480 for my 900D to run a bench but sadly no stock @ Frozen CPU or PPC's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dazmode?
Click to expand...

Dazmode has them as well here: Link


----------



## DarthBaggins

I normally go through them, just due to ease of navigation of their store.


----------



## Yondersoup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You could go with our kit... comes with that tubing and of course the proper fittings to match. Our 770 blocks are a little less expensive as well.


The info on the kit doesn't show that the CPU block fits the 1150 socket, and the info for the kit on the EK site is the same. The page for the CPU block says it does so it's safe to assume the block in the kit fits 1150 as well right?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yondersoup*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You could go with our kit... comes with that tubing and of course the proper fittings to match. Our 770 blocks are a little less expensive as well.
> 
> 
> 
> The info on the kit doesn't show that the CPU block fits the 1150 socket, and the info for the kit on the EK site is the same. The page for the CPU block says it does so it's safe to assume the block in the kit fits 1150 as well right?
Click to expand...

Ah I will let someone know to update those. Yes any CPU block that fits 1155 will fit 1150.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah, you are right about their support. I was trying to get measurements for one of their accessory type products and never even got a reply. Lame sauce


Yeah their support is useless that is why I have an unopened box of their tubing that is just getting scrapped, along with their dual D5 reservoir, raystorm CPU block and a few smaller rads. At this point I went from having almost everything in my loop be an XSPC product to switching out to EK stuff. If the Coolstream out performs my AX480 I will be replacing those as well. I'm just keeping the fittings because they are the only things in good shape and I'm contemplating rigid tubing for the future so that might go also. I have 0 tolerance for poor support.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Hey guys,

Again not sure if I should start a separate thread, but this seems to be very active, so I'll post it here!

For my first ever water cooling build I have a random assortment of watercooling parts on their way to me, but I still need:

- CPU block (for AM3+)
- Tubing (probably coloured)
- Coolant / silver coil / biocide / anti-corrosive (thinking I'll probably go distilled with a coil and coloured tubing)
- Probably another rad (have a 360 incoming, but I'll be cooling the CPU and one GPU (GTX 670).
- A new case! I need something that can fit a 360-inch rad plus whatever other rad(s) you might suggest
Budget of $100-200 for the case. No real budget on the rest.

I also may need some fittings, I'll have to see once I get all of the parts.

Currently I have (on its way here):

- Heatkiller full block for GTX 670 (NIB)
- used Swiftech 360mm rad
- used EK 4.0 pump
- used compression fittings (not sure on size, I'll find out when they show up tonight or tomorrow)
- used EK reservoir

Suggestions? Any and all are welcome.

Also, let me know if I should post this as its own thread. I plan to do a build log anyways.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Again not sure if I should start a separate thread, but this seems to be very active, so I'll post it here!
> 
> For my first ever water cooling build I have a random assortment of watercooling parts on their way to me, but I still need:
> 
> - CPU block (for AM3+)
> - Tubing (probably coloured)
> - Coolant / silver coil / biocide / anti-corrosive (thinking I'll probably go distilled with a coil and coloured tubing)
> - Probably another rad (have a 360 incoming, but I'll be cooling the CPU and one GPU (GTX 670).
> - A new case! I need something that can fit a 360-inch rad plus whatever other rad(s) you might suggest
> Budget of $100-200
> 
> I also may need some fittings, I'll have to see once I get all of the parts.
> 
> Currently I have (on its way here):
> 
> - Heatkiller full block for GTX 670 (NIB)
> - used Swiftech 360mm rad
> - used EK 4.0 pump
> - used compression fittings (not sure on size, I'll find out when they show up tonight or tomorrow)
> - used EK reservoir
> 
> Suggestions? Any and all are welcome.
> 
> Also, let me know if I should post this as its own thread. I plan to do a build log anyways.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Tight budget, fittings are gonna be expensive. Keep searching used. Oh, and that rad you already have can cool your system for now.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Sorry, 100-200 dollars was just the budget for the case, not all of the parts. I should have clarified. --Fixed

I don't really have a budget for the rest, I just don't want to go too crazy. Don't mind spending on tubing and fittings though, I've seen so many horrible plasticizer issues on here, and I'd rather not cheap on fittings to avoid leaks.

Also, I do have some compression fittings on the way. Hopefully they're usable!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tight budget, fittings are gonna be expensive. Keep searching used. Oh, and that rad you already have can cool your system for now.


He could forgo getting any 45/90 adapters, and just use straight up compressions. And in terms of CPU blocks, they pop up quite often on the OCN Marketplace for solid prices. I believe Stren is currently selling some there.


----------



## derickwm

For that much info you may want to create your own thread. It'll be tough to fit all that in a $200 budget.

For CPU block I'd PM Stren, he's selling a bunch right now.

For tubing I'd recommend EK ZMT as there won't be any worry about plasticizer and it's nice to work with.

To find a cheap 360 rad I'd watch the marketplace. 360 radiators new will eat most of that budget.

Not sure on case. Corsair 750D is new and for the price (160) is pretty great.

Lol ninja'd.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> For that much info you may want to create your own thread. It'll be tough to fit all that in a $200 budget.
> 
> For CPU block I'd PM Stren, he's selling a bunch right now.
> 
> For tubing I'd recommend EK ZMT as there won't be any worry about plasticizer and it's nice to work with.
> 
> To find a cheap 360 rad I'd watch the marketplace. 360 radiators new will eat most of that budget.
> 
> Not sure on case. Corsair 750D is new and for the price (160) is pretty great.
> 
> Lol ninja'd.


Hey the 750D suggestion shouldn't be X'd out!

I was really considering it anyways. I like that it's not as big as the 900D but still supports lots of watercooling options. Also, I don't need another 360 necessarily, I was saying I already HAD a 360. I just might need another 240/280 or something. Heck, I could probably even get by with one thick 120 eh? Currently have an FX4170 but I'm switching to an 8350 at some point.

Also, I found all of the parts I listed above on the marketplace--but I'll keep checking it. I might just buy a new CPU block, we'll see.

Anyways, sounds like I should make my own thread--which I'll do at some point tonight after work and tennis.

Thanks guys (and girls)!


----------



## Sunreeper

The 750D is awesome especially at its price. Has nice look and can hold a decent amount of rads.


----------



## ChrisB17

My new addition. Happy with it so far...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I am a sucker for that awesome Black and Gold look


----------



## Zeus

Well, I've finally taken the step into H2O cooling

Here's a quick picture I took just after the leak testing (sorry for the crappy picture). I do plan to re do it as I'm not 100% happy with the way it looks (but I am loving the temps)



And before you spot it, yes there are 2 different hose sizes & colors. It will be a single size & color once I've done the rework (waiting on a few fittings, etc)

Rads: Phobya G-Changer 360 V2 (top) & Alpacool ST30 240 (front)
Blocks: EK Supremacy Clean CSQ & Watercool GPU-X 6990 LT
Res: Phobya Balancer 150
Pump: EK DCP 4.0


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 18AWG wire + approximately 2mm sleeving.


I plan on doing some custom cable sleeving with 18awg wire. Is 2mm sleeving tough to feed 18awg wire through? Also where would you recommend I get my sleeving, wire, and heatshrink?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I plan on doing some custom cable sleeving with 18awg wire. Is 2mm sleeving tough to feed 18awg wire through? Also where would you recommend I get my sleeving, wire, and heatshrink?


I only use MDPC-X for sleeving and heatshrink. Wire I buy locally. And no it isn't hard to push the wire through.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lutro0-Customs is a great source too. Those are probly the only 2 places that you'll see recommendations for


----------



## gdubc

Also, with Lutro0's wire it is specifically chosen for ease of sleeving. Both places are great with outstanding customer service.


----------



## Pimphare

Thanks guys! I might check out some wire at the local hardware store or Radio Shack and just order the sleeving and heatshrink.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Again not sure if I should start a separate thread, but this seems to be very active, so I'll post it here!
> 
> For my first ever water cooling build I have a random assortment of watercooling parts on their way to me, but I still need:
> 
> - CPU block (for AM3+)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> - Tubing (probably coloured)
> - Coolant / silver coil / biocide / anti-corrosive (thinking I'll probably go distilled with a coil and coloured tubing)
> - Probably another rad (have a 360 incoming, but I'll be cooling the CPU and one GPU (GTX 670).
> - A new case! I need something that can fit a 360-inch rad plus whatever other rad(s) you might suggest
> Budget of $100-200 for the case. No real budget on the rest.
> 
> I also may need some fittings, I'll have to see once I get all of the parts.
> 
> Currently I have (on its way here):
> 
> - Heatkiller full block for GTX 670 (NIB)
> - used Swiftech 360mm rad
> - used EK 4.0 pump
> - used compression fittings (not sure on size, I'll find out when they show up tonight or tomorrow)
> - used EK reservoir
> 
> Suggestions? Any and all are welcome.
> 
> Also, let me know if I should post this as its own thread. I plan to do a build log anyways.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I have a koolance 370 that is working nicely on my 8120, also it looks nice with my heatkiller 670 block


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> 
> 
> My new addition. Happy with it so far...


Could you link me that valve fitting for the drain port? That's exactly what I've been looking for!


----------



## SeeThruHead

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14596/ex-tub-1035/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Matte_Black_BP-MVV-MBK.html
probably that


----------



## WaitWhat

First proper custom water cooling loop







Adding the GPU in a week or two

http://s558.photobucket.com/user/aw...0-40eb-a8fe-fdfac468c70e_zps5fdc3e54.jpg.html


----------



## cyphon

Build looks good.

This next part is in no way a dig at you, simply social commenting:

It amazes me how many first time builds (myself included in this statement) use UV reactive. Then subsequent builds tend to ditch the UV.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Build looks good.
> 
> This next part is in no way a dig at you, simply social commenting:
> 
> It amazes me how many first time builds (myself included in this statement) use UV reactive. Then subsequent builds tend to ditch the UV.


This.

Was thinking the same thing. Either that or a lot of colour/fan lighting.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14596/ex-tub-1035/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Matte_Black_BP-MVV-MBK.html
> probably that


Yup thats it


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Build looks good.
> 
> This next part is in no way a dig at you, simply social commenting:
> 
> It amazes me how many first time builds (myself included in this statement) use UV reactive. Then subsequent builds tend to ditch the UV.


I'm assuming this is aimed at me

The UV effect isn't actually on purpose
The liquid I'm using is a mayhems pastel (I think it was yellow) plus some green dye to make it that sort of colour (it looks darker with no LED turned on)

The NZXT 820 case comes with variable LEDs inside which, if changed to a purpley/blue make it appear to be UV.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> I'm assuming this is aimed at me
> 
> The UV effect isn't actually on purpose
> The liquid I'm using is a mayhems pastel (I think it was yellow) plus some green dye to make it that sort of colour (it looks darker with no LED turned on)
> 
> The NZXT 820 case comes with variable LEDs inside which, if changed to a purpley/blue make it appear to be UV.


That is indeed interesting...


----------



## Maximus Knight

Heheh I bought a Hue RGB for my Phantom 630 lol make it like a 820 lol


----------



## thestache

I didn't realise how heavy this thing would be.


----------



## derickwm

Lookin good


----------



## Ftimster

Hay guys is there a official 4960x thread anywhere???


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> I'm assuming this is aimed at me
> 
> The UV effect isn't actually on purpose
> The liquid I'm using is a mayhems pastel (I think it was yellow) plus some green dye to make it that sort of colour (it looks darker with no LED turned on)
> 
> The NZXT 820 case comes with variable LEDs inside which, if changed to a purpley/blue make it appear to be UV.


It definitely looks uv lol. Interesting note on the switch 820.

As I said it was no dig at you or anyone else or anything. UV is awesome when done right. In my first build everything down to the cable ties were uv lol. Just started to notice now that I'm seeing first and second or third builds from individuals, I was just noticing that a good percentage of first time builds seem to go uv, then the next ones go away from it lol


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It definitely looks uv lol. Interesting note on the switch 820.
> 
> As I said it was no dig at you or anyone else or anything. UV is awesome when done right. In my first build everything down to the cable ties were uv lol. Just started to notice now that I'm seeing first and second or third builds from individuals, I was just noticing that a good percentage of first time builds seem to go uv, then the next ones go away from it lol


"Phantom 820".


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> Hay guys is there a official 4960x thread anywhere???


http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/advanced/?search=


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> For that much info you may want to create your own thread. It'll be tough to fit all that in a $200 budget.


Created one here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1429365/first-foray-into-h20-advice-please-dear-fellows


----------



## saophen

Here is my build XD


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saophen*
> 
> Here is my build XD


love those bends


----------



## thestache

I really thought a slight kink in the tubing to and from the CPU would be fine (always has been in the past) and figured it'd stay as is/open up a bit with some coolant in it if anything but nope did the opposite and filling the loop made it far worse, dam things nearly closed up and CPU was +30deg hotter under load than it was before. Guess they were just too tight/short, which is a bummer, pulled it apart and time to re-do them. Looked good though.

If I can't get the kinks out with some longer tubing though I'm not even sure how I'd route this. Maybe ie: GPU > bottom RAM | top RAM > top VRM | bottom VRM > CPU inlet. Thoughts?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> I really thought a slight kink in the tubing to and from the CPU would be fine (always has been in the past) and figured it'd stay as is/open up a bit with some coolant in it if anything but nope did the opposite and filling the loop made it far worse, dam things nearly closed up and CPU was +30deg hotter under load than it was before. Guess they were just too tight/short, which is a bummer, pulled it apart and time to re-do them. Looked good though.
> 
> If I can't get the kinks out with some longer tubing though I'm not even sure how I'd route this. Maybe ie: GPU > bottom RAM | top RAM > top VRM | bottom VRM > CPU inlet. Thoughts?


what tubing are you using? advance lrt? good luck getting it to bend on such short routes without 45s and 90 fittings lol, imo, if you cant get em out...acrylic time


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> I really thought a slight kink in the tubing to and from the CPU would be fine (always has been in the past) and figured it'd stay as is/open up a bit with some coolant in it if anything but nope did the opposite and filling the loop made it far worse, dam things nearly closed up and CPU was +30deg hotter under load than it was before. Guess they were just too tight/short, which is a bummer, pulled it apart and time to re-do them. Looked good though.
> 
> If I can't get the kinks out with some longer tubing though I'm not even sure how I'd route this. Maybe ie: GPU > bottom RAM | top RAM > top VRM | bottom VRM > CPU inlet. Thoughts?


Use 45 angles to straighten the run.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> what tubing are you using? advance lrt? good luck getting it to bend on such short routes without 45s and 90 fittings lol, imo, if you cant get em out...acrylic time


Yeah using Advance LRT. I've always done tight bend with it but maybe I was just too cocky with these ones and took too much out. Maybe just an extra 10-15mm of tubing will do it but there's no way I'm using angled adapters.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Yeah using Advance LRT. I've always done tight bend with it but maybe I was just too cocky with these ones and took too much out. Maybe just an extra 10-15mm of tubing will do it but there's no way I'm using angled adapters.


good luck with it, when i switched to advance lrt i had to bust out a couple extra 45s for it lol


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Yeah using Advance LRT. I've always done tight bend with it but maybe I was just too cocky with these ones and took too much out. Maybe just an extra 10-15mm of tubing will do it but there's no way I'm using angled adapters.


well u better get some smaller tubing because dem tubes don't bend so well in such a tight area


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> good luck with it, when i switched to advance lrt i had to bust out a couple extra 45s for it lol


Yeah damn, hate the look of angled adapters not to mention I doubt they'd even help with the way it's routed. Changing the routing would be the only option I think.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Yeah damn, hate the look of angled adapters not to mention I doubt they'd even help with the way it's routed. Changing the routing would be the only option I think.


from the looks of it, angle adapters arent gonna really help you much unless you use a quite a few to eventually get a straight run with the tube, and at that point the tube would be so small you might aswell just finish it with just fittings lol.

try to reroute your tubing so everything is run longer with less tight bends.

oh btw, you made it onto EK's facebook frontpage when you tore off your gskill stock heatsinks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Yeah damn, hate the look of angled adapters not to mention I doubt they'd even help with the way it's routed. Changing the routing would be the only option I think.
> 
> 
> 
> from the looks of it, *angle adapters arent gonna really help you much* unless you use a quite a few to eventually get a straight run with the tube, and at that point the tube would be so small you might aswell just finish it with just fittings lol.
> 
> try to reroute your tubing so everything is run longer with less tight bends.
> 
> oh btw, you made it onto EK's facebook frontpage when you tore off your gskill stock heatsinks
Click to expand...

I disagree,they will take 90 of the tube bend,those kinks will be much reduced,you dont need to make a straight run.

Or switch to a hardline,those bends will be a POP with hardline.....


----------



## Maximus Knight

Guys ik this is the wrong section but I wanna match my WC look. Where can I buy individually sleeved cables for Seasonic Platinum 1000W? Paracord sleeving. Only need 24pin, 8pin CPU, 8pin pci X2 and 6pin pci X2.

Really fed up with moddiy as the price is high and am seriously considering swapping to a Corsair AX860i as I can just buy a cable pack.


----------



## briddell

Just sleeve them yourself; it'd be cheaper, more fun, and exactly what you want aesthetically.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Just sleeve them yourself; it'd be cheaper, *more fun*, and exactly what you want aesthetically.


Just No.

At no point is sleeving fun,sore fingers with stab wounds are not fun


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> I really thought a slight kink in the tubing to and from the CPU would be fine (always has been in the past) and figured it'd stay as is/open up a bit with some coolant in it if anything but nope did the opposite and filling the loop made it far worse, dam things nearly closed up and CPU was +30deg hotter under load than it was before. Guess they were just too tight/short, which is a bummer, pulled it apart and time to re-do them. Looked good though.
> 
> If I can't get the kinks out with some longer tubing though I'm not even sure how I'd route this. Maybe ie: GPU > bottom RAM | top RAM > top VRM | bottom VRM > CPU inlet. Thoughts?


I'd say go from the GPU to the cpu inlet, cpu outlet to the bottom of the vrm, top of vrm to the ram (whichever) and then out.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Yeah using Advance LRT. I've always done tight bend with it but maybe I was just too cocky with these ones and took too much out. Maybe just an extra 10-15mm of tubing will do it *but there's no way I'm using angled adapters.*


Good.









Adapters are IMO ugly 95% of the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just No.
> 
> At no point is sleeving fun,sore fingers with stab wounds are not fun


Sleeving is awesome. Well the first maybe dozen power supplies it kind of sucks but now it ain't so bad.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Sleeving is awesome. Well *the first maybe dozen power supplies* it kind of sucks but now it ain't so bad.


that might discourage those who want to start sleeving their first psu...


----------



## gdubc

Look at the results of sleeving your own though. Well worth the pain. The tediousness of getting them perfect makes them that much more precious.


----------



## DarthBaggins

well started getting parts to start my first w/c build on my current rig, looks like I'm going to have to rip out the 3.5 drive stand section in my Source 210 case to make room for the rad and pump, and will be ditching the fan controller and 15 in 1 reader (I have an external I can use). Decided to get it piece by piece as I go along and can afford at the time.









Picked up a 120mm Siftech rad for 34.99 at Microcenter (only going to be using for the CPU for now, was going to do a GPU loop only but don't have room for an internal 220/240 in this case)


Hoping to pick up a CPU block and Res w/ pump next (Used both XPSC).


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saophen*
> 
> Here is my build XD


what did you use to light up the reservoir?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just No.
> 
> At no point is sleeving fun,sore fingers with stab wounds are not fun


Fo reeew!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Look at the results of sleeving your own though. Well worth the pain. The tediousness of getting them perfect makes them that much more precious.


This is still true.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adapters are IMO ugly 95% of the time.
> Sleeving is awesome. Well the first maybe dozen power supplies it kind of sucks but now it ain't so bad.


Speaking of sleeving and how much it sucks...........

CANNOT GET DAMN PIN OUT OF THE ATX CONNECTORS ON MY PSU.......I've tried extraction tool and the staple trick....those suckers will NOT come out.... What?!
























































































































\


----------



## Thrasher1016

Chances are that there might be a pinched release pin edge, or... other than that, who's got an idea?

ALSO, PAGE 5,000?!
Edit: Almost...

Thanks - T


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Chances are that there might be a pinched release pin edge, or... other than that, who's got an idea?
> 
> ALSO, PAGE 5,000?!
> Edit: Almost...
> 
> Thanks - T


On every pin??????????? lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like I'll keep sleeving my cables to someone else for now, lol. Woot Woot 5000 Pages!


----------



## B3L13V3R

So... EK question please:

What is the known performance gain and / or the true purpose between the standard Supremacy jet plate, and the "2011" jet plate on a 2011 CPU?

Hope that makes sense.

The reason I'm asking us that I feel like I may not be getting the performance I should with my current configuration. But then I again I can't say that I know what to realistically expect.

Currently, using a quiet 480 in p/p (not sure if I should be in p/p) and 3 GTX 670 4GB in the loop under EK blocks as well. Everything is nickel plexi CSQ BTW...

So far my idle temps are:

3820 @4.7 - 34C-38C
GPU's all sit at 26C-30C as primary is always about 2-4C higher then the other two cards.

Full load:

3820 @4.7 - 61C-64C (maxes at 56C under BF3 though in NVIDIA Surround)

GPU's never go over 51C so far except when benching with Unigine Heaven, then they can reach just over 60C after 15 min.

Any guidance is appreciated.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## szeged

lol that xspc rasa really stepped it up and showed everyone what NOT to make


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> So... EK question please:
> 
> What is the known performance gain and / or the true purpose between the standard Supremacy jet plate, and the "2011" jet plate on a 2011 CPU?
> 
> Hope that makes sense.
> 
> The reason I'm asking us that I feel like I may not be getting the performance I should with my current configuration. But then I again I can't say that I know what to realistically expect.
> 
> Currently, using a quiet 480 in p/p (not sure if I should be in p/p) and 3 GTX 670 4GB in the loop under EK blocks as well. Everything is nickel plexi CSQ BTW...
> 
> So far my idle temps are:
> 
> 3820 @4.7 - 34C-38C
> GPU's all sit at 26C-30C as primary is always about 2-4C higher then the other two cards.
> 
> Full load:
> 
> 3820 @4.7 - 61C-64C (maxes at 56C under BF3 though in NVIDIA Surround)
> 
> GPU's never go over 51C so far except when benching with Unigine Heaven, then they can reach just over 60C after 15 min.
> 
> Any guidance is appreciated.


You have just a single 480 for 3 GPU and a CPU??? And what fans you have?

Need more rads!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You have just a single 480 for 3 GPU and a CPU??? And what fans you have?
> 
> Need more rads!


Haha! Yup! Guess the push pull must be working.









Using Cougar Vortex

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_69_1233&products_id=37207&zenid=1d2164342db91676daeb451dcbf4a037

I have room for another 480... How should I configure the fans. I know I shouldn't p/p when rads share the same space.

Otherwise I could easily fit a monster 240 in the bay in p/p...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Haha! Yup! Guess the push pull must be working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using Cougar Vortex
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_69_1233&products_id=37207&zenid=1d2164342db91676daeb451dcbf4a037


Yeah, I'd say those are good temps for your setup!

If you want lower temps, you will probably want more rad space. Some stronger fans may help a bit too (Cougar Vortex are good fans for rads, but there are of course better







)


----------



## liberato87

GTX 780 + EK FC TITAN FULLCOVER + EK FC TITAN BACKPLATE


----------



## lowfat

I so wish I could find an unmodified PC-V2000/V2100/Black Pearl these days.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> GTX 780 + EK FC TITAN FULLCOVER + EK FC TITAN BACKPLATE


Thanks for using bulkhead fittings in your mid-plate. It really bothers me when people don't do this.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks for using bulkhead fittings in your mid-plate. It really bothers me when people don't do this.


----------



## derickwm

50,000 reply


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> lol that xspc rasa really stepped it up and showed everyone what NOT to make


The RASA is one of the oldest blocks in that test,maybe even EOL before that test.
The RASA used to be one of the best.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The RASA used to be one of the best.


Especially for its price point.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The RASA used to be one of the best.
> 
> 
> 
> Especially for its price point.
Click to expand...

Very true.
I think Dimastech still license the block,theirs looks so similar.

A bit of a classic,much like the old HF Supreme or the HK3.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I so wish I could find an unmodified PC-V2000/V2100/Black Pearl these days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for using bulkhead fittings in your mid-plate. It really bothers me when people don't do this.


That's cool to hear that someone else dig them.









It's been a lot of fun modding this one. I still find myself wanting to mod the Lian Li stuff. Huge challenge with huge payoff if done right. These V2000's are like giant passive heatsinks. Just put your hands on one under full load, or while gaming. It tosses of heat but makes the ambient of this room hotter in about 10 minutes... crazy effect.

Still lots of work to do on this little beast, but it's coming along as I have time. I need to do a couple bulkheads in the midplate...













I also have a fully functional and original PC-60 I would love to mod. I have this weird bezel that came with it when I bought it back in 2002 but I have the original too:




This guy did an amazing WC job with a PC-A60C (Copper touched PC-60). I would imagine replacing the rad he used with a Monsta 120 in P/P and a better pump to add a GPU into the mix. Real nice.

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showpost.php?p=2724671&postcount=24


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I so wish I could find an unmodified PC-V2000/V2100/Black Pearl these days.


http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1781263


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1781263


Buying a case from the US would like cost me $150 in shipping.


----------



## derickwm

Beggars can't be choosers


----------



## thestache

Wow my build got a lot of hate on EKs Facebook page. Was it really that bad?

Anyways I settled on this. No kinks and doesn't look too bad. Temps are slighty up from the CPU and GPU loop but not by more than 5-10deg in prime. Idling and games seem the same. Think that's from the added restriction of the loop?

And thanks for all the suggestions.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> 
> 
> Wow my build got a lot of hate on EKs Facebook page. Was it really that bad?
> 
> Anyways I settled on this. No kinks and doesn't look too bad. Temps are slighty up from the CPU and GPU loop but not by more than 5-10deg in prime. Idling and games seem the same. Think that's from the added restriction of the loop?
> 
> And thanks for all the suggestions.


i saw that hate being spewed on facebook and almost made a facebook account just to tell them how dumb they sound, its obviously a first draft, and if they did any investigation at all they could find out very easily that you were trying your best to clean up the runs on the tubing.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i saw that hate being spewed on facebook and almost made a facebook account just to tell them how dumb they sound, its obviously a first draft, and if they did any investigation at all they could find out very easily that you were trying your best to clean up the runs on the tubing.


Thanks mate.

Guess Facebook is as bad a YouTube comments sometimes. I'm happy with the loop now it's day time and can actually see it. Turned out alright.

Might play with some 45s and EK rigid fittings t see what they're like and if they'd be good options for this or future builds. If love to go copper but the layout of the test bench just won't accommodate it I don't think.


----------



## derickwm

We get a lot of...wonderful characters on our Facebook page


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Buying a case from the US would like cost me $150 in shipping.


Not necessarily. But yeah it is expensive








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We get a lot of...wonderful characters on our Facebook page


Ladies and gentlemen, the internet.


----------



## Simplynicko

for the koolance cpu-380, what does it mean by 90 degrees?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> for the koolance cpu-380, what does it mean by 90 degrees?


You can rotate it 90°s for better temps. I've only seen this benefit on SB-E and IB-E cpu(s). But, if you need to place your ports in a certain position, why not


----------



## Tarnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Just sleeve them yourself; it'd be cheaper, *more fun*, and exactly what you want aesthetically.
> 
> 
> 
> Just No.
> 
> At no point is sleeving fun,*sore fingers with stab wounds* are not fun
Click to expand...

Well, there's people who.. Nope, not going there.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> [...]
> Guess *Facebook is as bad a YouTube comments sometimes.* I'm happy with the loop now it's day time and can actually see it. Turned out alright.
> [...]


*Wrong. it's even worse.* Facebook has family-related drama.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Well, there's people who.. Nope, not going there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wrong. it's even worse.* Facebook has family-related drama.


I know first hand it ain't fun. I switched to extensions but recently i haven't found the colors I want for this build. I just bought another atx pin removal tool and I'm gonna tough it out sleeving this psu


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Speaking of sleeving and how much it sucks...........
> 
> CANNOT GET DAMN PIN OUT OF THE ATX CONNECTORS ON MY PSU.......I've tried extraction tool and the staple trick....those suckers will NOT come out.... What?!
> 
> 
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Because you are using a Corsair PSU. Silverstone PSU's are so much easier to do.

I make and crimp my cables from scratch. That way I can have them as straight as possible and the pins are much easier to pull out and insert.

Due to OCD I need my entire case to have good cable management including right @ the PSU and behind the motherboard tray so definitely no extension for me.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4171-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4216-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-24.jpg.html

Also I might add, do shrinkless sleeving. It is so much easier it ain't even funny.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Because you are using a Corsair PSU. Silverstone PSU's are so much easier to do.
> 
> I make and crimp my cables from scratch. That way I can have them as straight as possible and the pins are much easier to pull out and insert.
> 
> Due to OCD I need my entire case to have good cable management including right @ the PSU and behind the motherboard tray so definitely no extension for me.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4171-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4216-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-24.jpg.html
> 
> Also I might add, do shrinkless sleeving. It is so much easier it ain't even funny.


Awesome work man! That's exactly what I want. What tools do you use?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarnix*
> 
> Well, there's people who.. Nope, not going there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wrong. it's even worse.* Facebook has family-related drama.


Lol.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Awesome work man! That's exactly what I want. What tools do you use?


To remove pins I use two staples. Heavy duty ones that I have filled down to fit with a piece of wire insulation over the tops so they are easier on the fingers. They will never ever break and they are much easier to use then an ATX pin remover. It takes me maybe 10 seconds to pull a pin with them.

For crimpers I use MDPC-X ones as honestly they do a significantly better job than the ones you buy @ FCPU and PPCS. I've heard good things about Lutro0's crimpers.

Wire I buy locally, 18AWG. The stuff from PPCS is actually not 18AWG, the stands are slightly smaller and there is more insulation. It won't hold its shape near as well.

A sharp set of angle cutters is also very important to cut the sleeving straight.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Omg..OCD is beneficial


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Because you are using a Corsair PSU. Silverstone PSU's are so much easier to do.
> 
> I make and crimp my cables from scratch. That way I can have them as straight as possible and the pins are much easier to pull out and insert.
> 
> Due to OCD I need my entire case to have good cable management including right @ the PSU and behind the motherboard tray so definitely no extension for me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4171-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4216-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-24.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Also I might add, do shrinkless sleeving. It is so much easier it ain't even funny.


I would be happy with something like 1/10th as nice as that, lol

Working up to trying to extract the pins again...this connector is a total pain. It has to be possible though
Quote:


> To remove pins I use two staples. Heavy duty ones that I have filled down to fit with a piece of wire insulation over the tops so they are easier on the fingers. They will never ever break and they are much easier to use then an ATX pin remover. It takes me maybe 10 seconds to pull a pin with them.
> 
> For crimpers I use MDPC-X ones as honestly they do a significantly better job than the ones you buy @ FCPU and PPCS. I've heard good things about Lutro0's crimpers.
> 
> Wire I buy locally, 18AWG. The stuff from PPCS is actually not 18AWG, the stands are slightly smaller and there is more insulation. It won't hold its shape near as well.
> 
> A sharp set of angle cutters is also very important to cut the sleeving straight.


I have done a lot of pin removal and connector building....we're talking 60+ pin connectors that have tiny pins. the connectors on this PSU are just ridiculous, never seen pin extraction this difficult


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would give sleeving a shot, but my current PSU's (TX650M) only partially modular


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I would be happy with something like 1/10th as nice as that, lol
> 
> Working up to trying to extract the pins again...this connector is a total pain. It has to be possible though


If you have staples try them. Insert them on each side of the pin. They should hold in place. Then take a small hex driver and push on the pin from the front. That is what I usually do for stubborn pins.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> To remove pins I use two staples. Heavy duty ones that I have filled down to fit with a piece of wire insulation over the tops so they are easier on the fingers. They will never ever break and they are much easier to use then an ATX pin remover. It takes me maybe 10 seconds to pull a pin with them.
> 
> For crimpers I use MDPC-X ones as honestly they do a significantly better job than the ones you buy @ FCPU and PPCS. I've heard good things about Lutro0's crimpers.
> 
> Wire I buy locally, 18AWG. The stuff from PPCS is actually not 18AWG, the stands are slightly smaller and there is more insulation. It won't hold its shape near as well.
> 
> A sharp set of angle cutters is also very important to cut the sleeving straight.


Thanks! I appreciate it!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow my build got a lot of hate on EKs Facebook page. Was it really that bad?
> 
> Anyways I settled on this. No kinks and doesn't look too bad. Temps are slighty up from the CPU and GPU loop but not by more than 5-10deg in prime. Idling and games seem the same. Think that's from the added restriction of the loop?
> 
> And thanks for all the suggestions.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Its pretty funny the hate being said.


----------



## szeged

i almost lost it when the guy said its a dumb idea to use a gpu and cpu in the same loop.


----------



## DarthBaggins

There are some "special" people on Facebook lol


----------



## wermad

I got a few comments on my pic Derick posted. Tbh, i didn't see any negative comments. Don't know what happened there.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Its pretty funny the hate being said.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i almost lost it when the guy said its a dumb idea to use a gpu and cpu in the same loop.


Yeah like the morons that had a go at me for taking the heat spreaders off my Ripjaws to put the waterblock on them.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you have staples try them. Insert them on each side of the pin. They should hold in place. Then take a small hex driver and push on the pin from the front. That is what I usually do for stubborn pins.


I tried the staples as well.........I may need to file the staples ends down or something.....I have a paper for work to finish tonight, but will give it a shot after that...thanks for the thoughts


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i almost lost it when the guy said its a dumb idea to use a gpu and cpu in the same loop.


Lol, I didn't read through it, but someone must be trolling or has zero clue if they said this


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> To remove pins I use two staples. Heavy duty ones that I have filled down to fit with a piece of wire insulation over the tops so they are easier on the fingers. They will never ever break and they are much easier to use then an ATX pin remover. It takes me maybe 10 seconds to pull a pin with them.
> 
> For crimpers I use MDPC-X ones as honestly they do a significantly better job than the ones you buy @ FCPU and PPCS. I've heard good things about Lutro0's crimpers.
> 
> Wire I buy locally, 18AWG. The stuff from PPCS is actually not 18AWG, the stands are slightly smaller and there is more insulation. It won't hold its shape near as well.
> 
> A sharp set of angle cutters is also very important to cut the sleeving straight.


while we're discussing about cable sleeving/crimping, can anyone tell me if crimping fan cables is similar to crimping 24 pin / pcie cables? can the MDPC-X crimper do that?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> while we're discussing about cable sleeving/crimping, can anyone tell me if crimping fan cables is similar to crimping 24 pin / pcie cables? can the MDPC-X crimper do that?


Yes it is similar. Crimpers have two sections for crimping. One for the larger 18AWG cables/crimps (atx, molex, sata). And one for the 20-24AWG cables crimps (fans, front panel, usb, etc).


----------



## wermad

I use one of these guys, cheap and it works ok


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I use one of these guys, cheap and it works ok


God I hate those, lol. I usually am better with needle nose pliers crimping than those kind, lol.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yes it is similar. Crimpers have two sections for crimping. One for the larger 18AWG cables/crimps (atx, molex, sata). And one for the 20-24AWG cables crimps (fans, front panel, usb, etc).


thanks, +rep..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> God I hate those, lol. I usually am better with needle nose pliers crimping than those kind, lol.


They're not precise and i have wasted a few pins but it gets the job done. I have not gone as far as making all new custom lines but I use it when i have a pin that falls of the wire (most notably the fan pins).

I don't have the patience to sleeve a psu, let alone to create all new custom lines


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its wandered a little off topic neh?


----------



## DoktorTerror




----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its wandered a little off topic neh?


THIS THREAD?!?! Surely you jest my good sir!


----------



## ginger_nuts

"My Current Project" is going to the children as a gaming machine for them.

So the Rasa block is being replaced with














Maybe I could put the Rasa in the HTPC


----------



## DoktorTerror




----------



## pc-illiterate

looking very nice doktor


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*


*I AM IN UR RIG STEALIN' UR TUBING LAYOOOOOUUUT!!!*

Thanks - T


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> *I AM IN UR RIG STEALIN' UR TUBING LAYOOOOOUUUT!!!*
> 
> Thanks - T


Not if I steal it first...









Herr Doktor, I like the way you route.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*


HOLY (expletive'ing expletive)!!!!

That's (expletive'ing) awesome/gorgeous!


----------



## saophen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> what did you use to light up the reservoir?


2 4 inch cathodes one is super bright blue the other is UV


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*


Really nice lines.


----------



## DesktopDoctorNZ




----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DesktopDoctorNZ*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As old as this case is, I still love the way it looks. Especially when it's water cooled. Clean build.


----------



## DesktopDoctorNZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> As old as this case is, I still love the way it looks. Especially when it's water cooled. Clean build.


Hehe the case is 5 years old and still blows a hole in my wallet.. Guess silverstone are the only company that don't reduce their prices over time 

Thanks


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> As old as this case is, I still love the way it looks. Especially when it's water cooled. Clean build.


About to say the same thing. Such an iconic case.


----------



## cyphon

Omg finally got the pins out of the atx connector....broke my extractor tool though so I'm using the staples.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Omg finally got the pins out of the atx connector....broke my extractor tool though so I'm using the staples.


I was about to say I had the same problem with my silvestone but missed the convo. It was stupidly tight and none of the pins would come out - only so that now the connectors are too loose.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I had so much fun with my Corsair AX1200 that I completely scrapped the idea and just bought their pack for $50. Figured I saved myself about $400 (that is if I actually had to pay myself for my time).







Doesn't look nearly as nice as I'd planned originally... but after spending nearly 20 minutes getting a single wire un-pinned... I saw the writing on the wall and award-winning sleeving wasn't written there.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*


Omg that case is sexy! Where can I get the dimensions for that? It's almost exactly the same as the one I was designing. Does that have a clear plexiglass lid/cover of somesort? I see the 4 mouting points. I want to try and segregate the roms/hdd/sPSU etc under the MB platform, just have the tubing up there for the waterblocks and have 2x 360 rads at the bottom. The one thing I'm unsure about is how to manage the flow for both of the rads. I want to mount them parralell and for them both to be intake. Perhaps I could do that, and have one side with just exhaust fans on it?

So itll be like:


Where the green are 2x 360 rads in push+pull as Intake.
and the red 3x 120mm fans as exhaust.

Will this be enough? Or should I just cut a hole in the red side and put a grill there?

Im worried that if the heat from both rads (Plus the pump/Roms/HDD's/PSU will be in there would start to heat it up. I could make little chambers for everything but I would like for the intake from the rads to be used to cool the other components and having chambers would pretty much eliminate my airflow through the case. there will also be fans blowing up into the back of the MB.

Opinions?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Omg that case is sexy! Where can I get the dimensions for that? It's almost exactly the same as the one I was designing. Does that have a clear plexiglass lid/cover of somesort? I see the 4 mouting points. I want to try and segregate the roms/hdd/sPSU etc under the MB platform, just have the tubing up there for the waterblocks and have 2x 360 rads at the bottom. The one thing I'm unsure about is how to manage the flow for both of the rads. I want to mount them parralell and for them both to be intake. Perhaps I could do that, and have one side with just exhaust fans on it?
> 
> So itll be like:
> 
> 
> Where the green are 2x 360 rads in push+pull as Intake.
> and the red 3x 120mm fans as exhaust.
> 
> Will this be enough? Or should I just cut a hole in the red side and put a grill there?
> 
> Im worried that if the heat from both rads (Plus the pump/Roms/HDD's/PSU will be in there would start to heat it up. I could make little chambers for everything but I would like for the intake from the rads to be used to cool the other components and having chambers would pretty much eliminate my airflow through the case. there will also be fans blowing up into the back of the MB.
> 
> Opinions?


I say, a grill on the exhaust side, but with 3 fans, so 3 fans mounted on the grill


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I woke up grumpy but this made me laugh.



Oh dear......


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Omg that case is sexy! Where can I get the dimensions for that? It's almost exactly the same as the one I was designing. Does that have a clear plexiglass lid/cover of somesort? I see the 4 mouting points. I want to try and segregate the roms/hdd/sPSU etc under the MB platform, just have the tubing up there for the waterblocks and have 2x 360 rads at the bottom. The one thing I'm unsure about is how to manage the flow for both of the rads. I want to mount them parralell and for them both to be intake. Perhaps I could do that, and have one side with just exhaust fans on it?
> 
> So itll be like:
> 
> 
> Where the green are 2x 360 rads in push+pull as Intake.
> and the red 3x 120mm fans as exhaust.
> 
> Will this be enough? Or should I just cut a hole in the red side and put a grill there?
> 
> Im worried that if the heat from both rads (Plus the pump/Roms/HDD's/PSU will be in there would start to heat it up. I could make little chambers for everything but I would like for the intake from the rads to be used to cool the other components and having chambers would pretty much eliminate my airflow through the case. there will also be fans blowing up into the back of the MB.
> 
> Opinions?


Its totally fine like that. The flow rate of fans on radiators can be is little as half the rate in free air. Even if the two rads intaking do produce more flow than the exhausts it just serves to effectively supercharge the exhaust fans. They don't have to gather air into themselves so their flow rate is increased. A grill with no fans will just add to the resistance the rad fans have to work against.
If the water temps are kept relatively low the air temp in the case will be lower too. Its a much better airflow system than most cases.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Omg that case is sexy! Where can I get the dimensions for that? It's almost exactly the same as the one I was designing. Does that have a clear plexiglass lid/cover of somesort? I see the 4 mouting points. I want to try and segregate the roms/hdd/sPSU etc under the MB platform, just have the tubing up there for the waterblocks and have 2x 360 rads at the bottom. The one thing I'm unsure about is how to manage the flow for both of the rads. I want to mount them parralell and for them both to be intake. Perhaps I could do that, and have one side with just exhaust fans on it?
> 
> So itll be like:
> 
> 
> Where the green are 2x 360 rads in push+pull as Intake.
> and the red 3x 120mm fans as exhaust.
> 
> Will this be enough? Or should I just cut a hole in the red side and put a grill there?
> 
> Im worried that if the heat from both rads (Plus the pump/Roms/HDD's/PSU will be in there would start to heat it up. I could make little chambers for everything but I would like for the intake from the rads to be used to cool the other components and having chambers would pretty much eliminate my airflow through the case. there will also be fans blowing up into the back of the MB.
> 
> Opinions?


Really unnecessary to have exhaust fans on the bottom in my opinion. The air can escape easily and isn't hot.

The build log for my case will run you through the case, it's layout and how it'll work and you can ask questions about it there if you want.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-build-log-custom-solidworks-designed-cnc-machined-acetal-case-gtx-titans-ek-watercooling

Mine has two 360x60mm radiators as intakes on the sides with a single set of fans in push. The air that is being pushed into the case even under load is cool, so don't stress about it heating things up. Nothing in my loop heats up very much at all. The top of the case has two fans which exhaust the air out of the bottom section and also actively cool the backside of the motherboard.

It's similar to my last build which I cut a hole for a single 140mm fan in the top to do the same thing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Omg that case is sexy! Where can I get the dimensions for that? It's almost exactly the same as the one I was designing. Does that have a clear plexiglass lid/cover of somesort? I see the 4 mouting points. I want to try and segregate the roms/hdd/sPSU etc under the MB platform, just have the tubing up there for the waterblocks and have 2x 360 rads at the bottom. The one thing I'm unsure about is how to manage the flow for both of the rads. I want to mount them parralell and for them both to be intake. Perhaps I could do that, and have one side with just exhaust fans on it?
> 
> So itll be like:
> 
> 
> Where the green are 2x 360 rads in push+pull as Intake.
> and the red 3x 120mm fans as exhaust.
> 
> Will this be enough? Or should I just cut a hole in the red side and put a grill there?
> 
> Im worried that if the heat from both rads (Plus the pump/Roms/HDD's/PSU will be in there would start to heat it up. I could make little chambers for everything but I would like for the intake from the rads to be used to cool the other components and having chambers would pretty much eliminate my airflow through the case. there will also be fans blowing up into the back of the MB.
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> 
> 
> Really unnecessary to have exhaust fans on the bottom in my opinion. The air can escape easily and isn't hot.
> 
> The build log for my case will run you through the case, it's layout and how it'll work and you can ask questions about it there if you want.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-build-log-custom-solidworks-designed-cnc-machined-acetal-case-gtx-titans-ek-watercooling
> 
> Mine has two 360x60mm radiators as intakes on the sides with a single set of fans in push. The air that is being pushed into the case even under load is cool, so don't stress about it heating things up. Nothing in my loop heats up very much at all. The top of the case has two fans which exhaust the air out of the bottom section and also actively cool the backside of the motherboard.
> 
> It's similar to my last build which I cut a hole for a single 140mm fan in the top to do the same thing.
Click to expand...

Yours is open both ends,much like my Dimastech.



His is boxed in and would benefit from an exhaust.

They are not the same


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I woke up grumpy but this made me laugh.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh dear......


So umm what exactly is that? Are those barbed compression fittings lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I woke up grumpy but this made me laugh.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh dear......
> 
> 
> 
> So umm what exactly is that? Are those barbed compression fittings lol
Click to expand...

Racing series fittings,they are supposed to look like tyres.....


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I woke up grumpy but this made me laugh.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh dear......


I want them, now to watercool the shop computer!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I woke up grumpy but this made me laugh.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh dear......


They look like tires, I like them. What are they? Compression fittings?


----------



## PedroC1999

Sure looks awesome!


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its totally fine like that. The flow rate of fans on radiators can be is little as half the rate in free air. Even if the two rads intaking do produce more flow than the exhausts it just serves to effectively supercharge the exhaust fans. They don't have to gather air into themselves so their flow rate is increased. A grill with no fans will just add to the resistance the rad fans have to work against.
> If the water temps are kept relatively low the air temp in the case will be lower too. Its a much better airflow system than most cases.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Really unnecessary to have exhaust fans on the bottom in my opinion. The air can escape easily and isn't hot.
> 
> The build log for my case will run you through the case, it's layout and how it'll work and you can ask questions about it there if you want.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-build-log-custom-solidworks-designed-cnc-machined-acetal-case-gtx-titans-ek-watercooling
> 
> Mine has two 360x60mm radiators as intakes on the sides with a single set of fans in push. The air that is being pushed into the case even under load is cool, so don't stress about it heating things up. Nothing in my loop heats up very much at all. The top of the case has two fans which exhaust the air out of the bottom section and also actively cool the backside of the motherboard.
> 
> It's similar to my last build which I cut a hole for a single 140mm fan in the top to do the same thing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


Thanks for the great advice guys. One last question. I was thinking about doing a plexiglass "Lid" that would sit ontop of the platform and screw it down on the edges with thumb screwes like you would a normal case panel.

The question I have is. Will the closed section of the plexiglass capture heat? Would I need to have some kind of port?

I was also thinking of doing a stainless steel Mesh as the cover. So it could also be free-flow air but restrict dust.

I do not think that there will much sound to dampen, as the top section will be insulted by the 1/2" thick material (12mm)(which I still havent decided which to use, I was going to use a stained Jarrah, Brushbox, or something, I really like the look of high quality stained timber)


----------



## ChrisB17

Those tire compression fittings look cool. I doubt I'd ever use them but they do look cool.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Thanks for the great advice guys. One last question. I was thinking about doing a plexiglass "Lid" that would sit ontop of the platform and screw it down on the edges with thumb screwes like you would a normal case panel.
> 
> The question I have is. Will the closed section of the plexiglass capture heat? Would I need to have some kind of port?
> 
> I was also thinking of doing a stainless steel Mesh as the cover. So it could also be free-flow air but restrict dust.
> 
> I do not think that there will much sound to dampen, as the top section will be insulted by the 1/2" thick material (12mm)(which I still havent decided which to use, I was going to use a stained Jarrah, Brushbox, or something, I really like the look of high quality stained timber)


Wouldn't a steel mesh cover for the whole unit essentially be putting a Faraday cage over it?

As for plexiglass, yes, you'd want some active ventilation.... I really, really like thestache's bench, the fans blowing upward under the motherboard is awesome (PERFECT for a RIVE!), but if you're going to have a cover, perhaps a hybrid aluminum/plexiglass design with a few fans would work best?


----------



## snef

Do we have a thread for test bench?

I have one and want to discuss about this type of rigs


----------



## Egami

To polish or not to polish...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> To polish or not to polish...


polish 100%


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Do we have a thread for test bench?
> 
> I have one and want to discuss about this type of rigs


if nothing comes under search then probably not


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> To polish or not to polish...


Do it.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Do it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!


Ohhhh... Lead me to your method?


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Ohhhh... Lead me to your method?


Please do. Im about to get some CSQ blocks that need polishing as well.


----------



## DoktorTerror

I am also interested


----------



## lowfat

Similar to this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW-HadrjjIU

Except I wet sanded, I used Meguiar's PlastX, and I spent way longer than 5 minutes on each block.


----------



## muffyn

Hey y'all.
I've had my rig for just over a month by now, and haven't posted here yet, becase of various reasons.
However during my tinkering today I figured I'd do a visual inspection, and it seems my cheapy fittings are ****e. Not sure whether this is rust, algae, or both.
Anyone got something to say about this?

I'm sorry about the bad focus, ain't got some nice camera.


Spoiler: Warning: pictures












Yeah man... Here's another angle and lighting.









There's more than one going bad, here's another one:










Also this might have something to do with my Primochill Advance LRT going not-Crystal-Clear.
I'm about to order some EK CSQ fittings, but I'm hesitant to open the blocks up and give them a brush.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Similar to this.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW-HadrjjIU
> 
> Except I wet sanded, I used Meguiar's PlastX, and I spent way longer than 5 minutes on each block.


You can also use a buff pad attachment on a dremel at a slow to mid speed to help give it a great shine









I use a combination of sanding and buff pad on my RAM block. Here is the before and after


----------



## snef

its not pump top but do it, a way better

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-8_zpsee036d95.jpg.html


----------



## szeged

buffing the frosted look off EK blocks just looks soooooo good lol.


----------



## lowfat

I'd never use a dremel personally. Too easy for the acrylic to get to hot and melt. Then you'll be polishing for days trying to fix it.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> its not pump top but do it, a way better
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-8_zpsee036d95.jpg.html


That looks incredible


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd never use a dremel personally. Too easy for the acrylic to get to hot and melt. Then you'll be polishing for days trying to fix it.


It is a concern, but if you are using slow or mid speeds and you keep it moving it doesn't burn through at all. Obviously you don't want to use a ton of force either lol


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Thanks for the great advice guys. One last question. I was thinking about doing a plexiglass "Lid" that would sit ontop of the platform and screw it down on the edges with thumb screwes like you would a normal case panel.
> 
> The question I have is. Will the closed section of the plexiglass capture heat? Would I need to have some kind of port?
> 
> I was also thinking of doing a stainless steel Mesh as the cover. So it could also be free-flow air but restrict dust.
> 
> I do not think that there will much sound to dampen, as the top section will be insulted by the 1/2" thick material (12mm)(which I still havent decided which to use, I was going to use a stained Jarrah, Brushbox, or something, I really like the look of high quality stained timber)


Like BNEG said if the front and rear are open you don't need the exhaust but it they are closed then yes you would. I'd say keep two sides open so it can escape on it own or run push pull on the rads exhausting. Keep in mind you need easy access inside to build the thing.

And for the plexiglass/acrylic top that'd be a bad idea. Would keep the heat in and be very hard to exhaust air out of and still look good. My test benches don't gather much dust but I know some peoples really do. I'd explore leaving it open and air compressed air cans or an air compressor once every two weeks for 10 seconds to just blast the dust off.

The performance benefits of an open case are really great and worth exploring. If not, I'd change up your design and explore mountainmods cases and something like the H2GOs look/HAFX with a clear top or something with a look like this.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is a concern, but if you are using slow or mid speeds and you keep it moving it doesn't burn through at all. Obviously you don't want to use a ton of force either lol


Alright so I did a test patch with my Dremel and a spare frosted CSQ top and it took ages to show any difference and was a lot harder to polish than acetal. Not sure if I'd recommend that.

Sanding it with 1200grit and then polishing with the Dremel worked a lot better but wasn't perfect.


----------



## smoke420

ok i want in the club. I had this rig a few years and finally got some money together to water cool it. well its technically been under water a while but I upgraded a week ago.
don't laugh please
h50-cpu
h60-gpu1
h60-gpu2
Get it in there, however you can...

way too much pressure on the block, severely bent hoses, pcb being twisted it cooled great but fail...

Now lets see if we can do better.I know lets cut the hose and add a t-line to get the air out. it will fit great no more pressure on the hoses.A quick stop at home depot is all you need.

I cant post a pic of that, this is hideous.Not only did it look like crap the hose was too short on the left side so i had to put something under the fan to stop it from rattling against the case then there's the brass plug from home depot that i had to rap in tape just to be safe. It didn't leak but I wanted to be shore it would't move and short something out. Not just a fail but a ugly one.

I know now I can cut the hose without my pc blowing up, or getting a puddle of water in my case.Lets cut some hoses and make this work.

ok better im liking this.lets boot it up and see what we get.


im liking this even more.this is a view from the front drive bays i hid that ugly t-line in there as you can see. i wanted to paint but im too lazy and don't want to be without my pc for days.I was very happy with this but I don't think I can stop.the corsair pumps are at there limits and I am getting board.time to save some money for more upgrades.

ok money saved what did we get.

cpu- ek supremacy clean csq
gpu's- Heatkiller GPU-X³ 6850 (the only full cover blocks available for the hd 6850) still great quality all copper and stainless steel and very heavy 650g each
pumps- 2 mcp350
pump top- EK-DDC Dual Top Version 2
res- ek 150
rads- koolance 120, black ice 120, swiftech 360

other than the fingerprints these things look awesome. the green spots are stars reflecting off the ceiling.


----------



## szeged

im not much of a fan of bright leds, more of a soft glow kinda person, but i really like that second to last pic with the green lighting up the room, very nice job!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Alright so I did a test patch with my Dremel and a spare frosted CSQ top and it took ages to show any difference and was a lot harder to polish than acetal. Not sure if I'd recommend that.
> 
> Sanding it with 1200grit and then polishing with the Dremel worked a lot better but wasn't perfect.


think it woulda been good with 1200 + 2000 + 4000 grit then polish with a soft dremel buffer.


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im not much of a fan of bright leds, more of a soft glow kinda person, but i really like that second to last pic with the green lighting up the room, very nice job!


Thank you very much. The lights are controlled by remote and are at there highest setting for the pics. I took the pics with an older phone so had no choice.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> think it woulda been good with 1200 + 2000 + 4000 grit then polish with a soft dremel buffer.


This is basically what I did. As i previously said, i did a mix of sand and Dremel buff. I would not do the whole thing with a dremel but it can be done. Doing a final last step with the dremel made mine super clear with no evidence of scratches from the sanding


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> think it woulda been good with 1200 + 2000 + 4000 grit then polish with a soft dremel buffer.


You shouldn't need a dremel. I don't think it will save time. The polishing part doesn't take long if you are using the right stuff. Wet sand up to 2000 grit, no need for higher. The wet sanding is the most important part. It should be clear by the time you are done sanding. Then use PlastX to give it a glass like clarity.



http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4244-1.jpg.html


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You shouldn't need a dremel. I don't think it will save time. The polishing part doesn't take long if you are using the right stuff. Wet sand up to 2000 grit, no need for higher. The wet sanding is the most important part. It should be clear by the time you are done sanding. Then use PlastX to give it a glass like clarity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah.. I don't get why you guys are doing something different than those that are seeing HUGE results.









Those pics are enough for me. Once I have the rest of the build figured out here, all these blocks are getting the treatment lowfat mentioned.


----------



## lowfat

Going to post this pic as well because I think it is awesome







.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4238-1.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Noyce


----------



## derickwm

Almost looks like the circle on the left needs a plug as well


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Yeah.. I don't get why you guys are doing something different than those that are seeing HUGE results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those pics are enough for me. Once I have the rest of the build figured out here, all these blocks are getting the treatment lowfat mentioned.


there are multiple rivers to get to the same sea.

i guess i just like to take the complicated route.


----------



## wermad

@Derick, do you know if ek is still pursuing the compression hard acrylic fittings?


----------



## Killa Cam

guys, i need ur help. im thinking about giving in to ivy bridge e and getting at least 3 290x gpus. idk know the exact tdp for each when overclocked, but lets speculate that a ivy bridge e and 3 amd 290x gpus have a total draw of 1600w of heat. how much rad space would suffice to dissipate this setup while being silent? lets say, fans running no more than 1200rpm? thoughts?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> To polish or not to polish...


Polish 100%


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> guys, i need ur help. im thinking about giving in to ivy bridge e and getting at least 3 290x gpus. idk know the exact tdp for each when overclocked, but lets speculate that a ivy bridge e and 3 amd 290x gpus have a total draw of 1600w of heat. how much rad space would suffice to dissipate this setup while being silent? lets say, fans running no more than 1200rpm? thoughts?


A pair of 480 rads? HWLabs SR-1 or UT60?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You shouldn't need a dremel. I don't think it will save time. The polishing part doesn't take long if you are using the right stuff. Wet sand up to 2000 grit, no need for higher. The wet sanding is the most important part. It should be clear by the time you are done sanding. Then use PlastX to give it a glass like clarity.


Turned out real nice. I might try and source some 2000 grit or higher to polish my case. Highest I can find is 1200 grit and is no where near fine enough.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You shouldn't need a dremel. I don't think it will save time. The polishing part doesn't take long if you are using the right stuff. Wet sand up to 2000 grit, no need for higher. The wet sanding is the most important part. It should be clear by the time you are done sanding. Then use PlastX to give it a glass like clarity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out real nice. I might try and source some 2000 grit or higher to polish my case. Highest I can find is 1200 grit and is no where near fine enough.
Click to expand...

http://amzn.com/B0002MSY90


----------



## DarthBaggins

I use that same paper for ensuring water pump & thermostat housings are smooth and clean on vehicles I work on (before installing new components). So that's more than enough to polish up an acrylic block/cover.


----------



## tecuarenta

To get it so clear, do you guys sand and polish the inside part of waterblocks aswell? I mean the part in contact with the copper.


----------



## jiJa

i would go for an MoRa


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> To get it so clear, do you guys sand and polish the inside part of waterblocks aswell? I mean the part in contact with the copper.


You polish all 6 sides of the acrylic


----------



## NRD

Finally got my first loop ever put together and temps are looking awesome on my 780. I ran valley for 30 mins @1293Ghz 1.269V and saw a max GPU temp of 39C and VRM temp (read with IR thermo off back of PCB) of 60.8C with an ambient temp of 23.4C. Fluid temp got up to 32.6C with both fans at 100%, which if I understand it correctly gives me a delta of 9.2C which I'm happy with as I've got some serious dust filters holding up a lot of the flow through the rad.

This will do nicely for BF4, and right in time for the beta







Thanks for the help and for the inspiration to finally do this guys. It was quite the adventure













PS: I'll add the CPU to the loop when I upgrade from my 2500K, which will probably end up being a whole new build in a 900D or similar as I now realize why water coolers complain about tight cases. I'll throw up a mini build log eventually, but for now I'm off to test this baby out in some BF3.


----------



## MiiX

I just noticed this:

Anyone know anything? All I found was this: http://www.ekwb.com/news/364/19/


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I just noticed this:
> 
> Anyone know anything? All I found was this: http://www.ekwb.com/news/364/19/


The sata ports are awkwardly positioned. Seems it would be a bit tricky for cable management.


----------



## derickwm

@wermad AFAIK EK is.

Our M6I block should be being previewed this week with hopefully ordering starting in the next 2-3 weeks if everything goes smoothly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> @wermad AFAIK EK is.
> 
> Our M6I block should be being previewed this week with hopefully ordering starting in the next 2-3 weeks if everything goes smoothly.


You know where to send one Derick....


----------



## hotrod717

Anyone know where I can pickup FC 7970 non csq waterblocks? Performance and Frozen do not have them. Got a couple reference cards and I'd like to keep similar theme as my Matrix and it's wb.



Out of my system right now as I test the reference cards.


----------



## DarthBaggins

You check on DazMode?


----------



## hotrod717

No. Forgot about him and just rembered Sidewinder and Petra. Haven't been in the market for gear in a few months and between ppcs and frozen they usually have it.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You shouldn't need a dremel. I don't think it will save time. The polishing part doesn't take long if you are using the right stuff. Wet sand up to 2000 grit, no need for higher. The wet sanding is the most important part. It should be clear by the time you are done sanding. Then use PlastX to give it a glass like clarity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4244-1.jpg.html


Have to say this makes the CSQ look sooo much better!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Finally got my first loop ever put together and temps are looking awesome on my 780. I ran valley for 30 mins @1293Ghz 1.269V and saw a max GPU temp of 39C and VRM temp (read with IR thermo off back of PCB) of 60.8C with an ambient temp of 23.4C. Fluid temp got up to 32.6C with both fans at 100%, which if I understand it correctly gives me a delta of 9.2C which I'm happy with as I've got some serious dust filters holding up a lot of the flow through the rad.
> 
> This will do nicely for BF4, and right in time for the beta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help and for the inspiration to finally do this guys. It was quite the adventure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I'll add the CPU to the loop when I upgrade from my 2500K, which will probably end up being a whole new build in a 900D or similar as I now realize why water coolers complain about tight cases. I'll throw up a mini build log eventually, but for now I'm off to test this baby out in some BF3.


Been a while since I've seen a gpu only loop. Btw, most cpu block these days come with different LGA brackets, so you can switch to any LGA without much complication. So its not a bad idea to wc your lovely SB cpu now







.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> The sata ports are awkwardly positioned. Seems it would be a bit tricky for cable management.


Was thinking about the fullcover block, not the board, as the board is released









Ports aitn A problem, I think you can easily bend them between the RAM and the GPU ;>


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Almost looks like the circle on the left needs a plug as well


I'd honestly remove the other badge if the circle underneath wasn't recessed. Blocking the view of the coolant. Same goes w/ the CPU block.


----------



## szeged

i like the EK badges on their blocks :x


----------



## MiiX

Finally I'm buying items for my first loop!
But, I'm looking at tubes here in Norway, and we finally got Primochill Advanced LRT in stores, in transparent and red. Since I'm going for a Asus Impact very soon, its going to be red. I was thinking of using distilled water, but would adding red coolant instead be a better choice? I love how the EK Blood red looks, but would it matter when I'm already using red tubing? Also, would a premixed red coolant usually make more mess/gunk/whatever-buildup in a loop than distilled water? All new to this, sorry for having a lot of questions but I'm so excited!









What do you guys use with distilled water(if you use it) copper sulfate/PTNuke?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys need your help again,some of my wc parts came in today including a raystorm cpu block im running an asus x79 riv4 and I was wondering will I need to change the mobo backplate to add the cpu block or will it work with the backplate that came with the mobo....


----------



## MiiX

http://static.squarespace.com/static/51998404e4b0ef02d1bd9c2c/t/51ac31fee4b00e0c6e19b7c2/1370239486863/raystorm-kit-revised.pdf
Page 3 should help you out


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> http://static.squarespace.com/static/51998404e4b0ef02d1bd9c2c/t/51ac31fee4b00e0c6e19b7c2/1370239486863/raystorm-kit-revised.pdf
> Page 3 should help you out


Thx for that,at work on my phone so it wont open,get off work in another 9hrs so will have a look at it then....


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Been a while since I've seen a gpu only loop. Btw, most cpu block these days come with different LGA brackets, so you can switch to any LGA without much complication. So its not a bad idea to wc your lovely SB cpu now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Since this was my first time delving into WC I wanted to try to keep it (somewhat) simple, and I still ended up spending close to $1000 by the time I add in fittings and the stuff I bought to flush my rad. Which btw had a ton of gunk left in it from manufacturing

(This was after a 12 hour flush of just the rad/pump with the Primochill sys prep that came with my tubing)
*Note I did not use it with my block or tubing


.I'll probably end up getting a CPU block before too long though, as this hobby is quite addictive







I'd rather not add it to a loop with just the 200mm rad though as I think for where I'd like temps to be, I'd need at least another 240-360 in the loop. And space is already at a premium in this 600T. Besides my Scythe Mine2 handles 4.7 @1.4v on this chip with a max of ~60C. I really just wanted the loop to allow me to OC the 780 as far as it will go, and it sure has. Earlier today I played a couple hours of BF3 @ 1293/3175 1.269v and my core never got higher than 36C and that was briefly, most of the time it was sitting at 33-34C which I'm just astounded by. I checked VRM temps with IR from back of PCB and couldn't find anywhere hotter than ~52C and my water/air delta never rose above 7C


----------



## Ftimster

Hay guys just wondering I'm guessing ivy-e was a real flop as I was able to gain 1000 points in 3d mark 11 and others but if you search the net for anything on 4960x its like it never happened :-( how to over clock ext.... Thanks


----------



## kpoeticg

Well it's still a new chip, and I think alot of people like myself are still waiting on the RIVE BE to dive in


----------



## gdubc

^this.


----------



## DevilGear44

Can anyone offhand recommend a decent all-around rad that fits the approximate profile of an H100? As in, preferably thinner than 30mm.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Can anyone offhand recommend a decent all-around rad that fits the approximate profile of an H100? As in, preferably thinner than 30mm.


Koolance CU720V is similar, cheap and performs well but I'd recommend the thickest radiator you can fit.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Can anyone offhand recommend a decent all-around rad that fits the approximate profile of an H100? As in, preferably thinner than 30mm.


Black Ice GTS radiators.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Need some help,just wanted to know whats the best way to flush my rads and also the best water solution mean distilled/boiled or just regular tap water.....still at work but found out my rads and blocks came in today,and this will be my first time W.C so I just want to get everything right....also do I need to flush my gpu/cpu blocks or even the tubing...also is there a particular method to add paste to a gpu block....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need some help,just wanted to know whats the best way to flush my rads and also the best water solution mean distilled/boiled or just regular tap water.....still at work but found out my rads and blocks came in today,and this will be my first time W.C so I just want to get everything right....also do I need to flush my gpu/cpu blocks or even the tubing...also is there a particular method to add paste to a gpu block....


For flushing, I personally flush everything out just with tap water, in both directions, in the out, then out the in.









For best performance, nothing beats distilled water, along with an anti-fungal, ie pure silver. But coolants like Mayhems only adds 1-5 degrees Celsius.









Best method to put paste on the chips, refer to the install manuals, they show how very well. Personally I spread it on with the edge of an old credit card, as thin as I can whilst making sure the entire surface is covered. It has worked well for me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need some help,just wanted to know whats the best way to flush my rads and also the best water solution mean distilled/boiled or just regular tap water.....still at work but found out my rads and blocks came in today,and this will be my first time W.C so I just want to get everything right....also do I need to flush my gpu/cpu blocks or even the tubing...also is there a particular method to add paste to a gpu block....
> 
> 
> 
> For flushing, I personally flush everything out just with tap water, in both directions, in the out, then out the in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For best performance, nothing beats distilled water, along with an anti-fungal, ie pure silver. But coolants like Mayhems only adds 1-5 degrees Celsius.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best method to put paste on the chips, refer to the install manuals, they show how very well. Personally I spread it on with the edge of an old credit card, as thin as I can whilst making sure the entire surface is covered. It has worked well for me.
Click to expand...

This.

Although i use the pea/line method of TIM rather than spreading.

No acids (ie,vinegar) to be used for cleaning a loop before use.


----------



## stickg1

I want a frosty CSQ Supremacy block for 1155. Anyone have one they want to part with. I saw them the other day new for about $70, but I'm kind of a tight wad so was looking for a used one lol. I mostly want it for aesthetics, it should perform similar (or slightly better) than my Raystorm.

I have a frosty CSQ 680 block and I personally like the frosty CSQ look, polished or not, I think it's hawt. Anyway, if you got one, hit me up via PM.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> For flushing, I personally flush everything out just with tap water, in both directions, in the out, then out the in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For best performance, nothing beats distilled water, along with an anti-fungal, ie pure silver. But coolants like Mayhems only adds 1-5 degrees Celsius.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best method to put paste on the chips, refer to the install manuals, they show how very well. Personally I spread it on with the edge of an old credit card, as thin as I can whilst making sure the entire surface is covered. It has worked well for me.


Thx for the reply....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Although i use the pea/line method of TIM rather than spreading.
> 
> No acids (ie,vinegar) to be used for cleaning a loop before use.


Have you tried both ways or have you always use the pea/line method instead of pasting....?


----------



## bomberjun

I cant straighten up the acrylic tubing from reservoir to pump... what to do? leave it that way?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> For flushing, I personally flush everything out just with tap water, in both directions, in the out, then out the in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For best performance, nothing beats distilled water, along with an anti-fungal, ie pure silver. But coolants like Mayhems only adds 1-5 degrees Celsius.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best method to put paste on the chips, refer to the install manuals, they show how very well. Personally I spread it on with the edge of an old credit card, as thin as I can whilst making sure the entire surface is covered. It has worked well for me.


Warm/hot tap water works for me. Got a bit of gunk out of mine tonight doing it. Is love to use distilled water to flush blocks and rads but I don't have the time for that.


----------



## thestache

Busy busy night but I'm loving how it's coming to life...


----------



## ginger_nuts

After seeing your bench, I would so love a bench, but with two cats, two dogs and three boys with NERF guns, footballs, cricket balls and a multitude of other things that become air borne.

I don't think it is wise just yet









Great work thestache


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> After seeing your bench, I would so love a bench, but with two cats, two dogs and three boys with NERF guns, footballs, cricket balls and a multitude of other things that become air borne.
> 
> I don't think it is wise just yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work thestache


Lol. Be a shame to hide something cool like that away in cupboard or something.

But thanks mate appreciate it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> I cant straighten up the acrylic tubing from reservoir to pump... what to do? leave it that way?


I would think if you remove the bottom drive cages and adjust the placement of the pumps it should straighten out the lines leading from the Res's


----------



## bomberjun

Nope. I cant sacrifice my hdd cages. Well... ill leave it like that at the moment. Will try some other routes.







thanks.


----------



## SeriousBlack

Well this was my last watercooled build. Spec in my sig.

I'm about to start a new build: 4930K, Rampage IV Gene, 2 x GTX Titans in a Corsair 350D. Just hoping that 2 x 240mm rads will cope with the heat.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Finally I'm buying items for my first loop!
> But, I'm looking at tubes here in Norway, and we finally got Primochill Advanced LRT in stores, in transparent and red. Since I'm going for a Asus Impact very soon, its going to be red. I was thinking of using distilled water, but would adding red coolant instead be a better choice? I love how the EK Blood red looks, but would it matter when I'm already using red tubing? Also, would a premixed red coolant usually make more mess/gunk/whatever-buildup in a loop than distilled water? All new to this, sorry for having a lot of questions but I'm so excited!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys use with distilled water(if you use it) copper sulfate/PTNuke?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need some help,just wanted to know whats the best way to flush my rads and also the best water solution mean distilled/boiled or just regular tap water.....still at work but found out my rads and blocks came in today,and this will be my first time W.C so I just want to get everything right....also do I need to flush my gpu/cpu blocks or even the tubing...also is there a particular method to add paste to a gpu block....
> 
> 
> 
> *For flushing, I personally flush everything out just with tap water, in both directions, in the out, then out the in.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For best performance, nothing beats distilled water, along with an anti-fungal, ie pure silver. But coolants like Mayhems only adds 1-5 degrees Celsius.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best method to put paste on the chips, refer to the install manuals, they show how very well. Personally I spread it on with the edge of an old credit card, as thin as I can whilst making sure the entire surface is covered. It has worked well for me.
Click to expand...

^This. Final step is flush with distilled water 2 to 3 times.

You have SB-E, I recommend applying TIM using "X" (or "+") method. If you use IC Diamond then you need spread it yourself to a thin layer.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> For flushing, I personally flush everything out just with tap water, in both directions, in the out, then out the in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For best performance, nothing beats distilled water, along with an anti-fungal, ie pure silver. But coolants like Mayhems only adds 1-5 degrees Celsius.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best method to put paste on the chips, refer to the install manuals, they show how very well. Personally I spread it on with the edge of an old credit card, as thin as I can whilst making sure the entire surface is covered. It has worked well for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for the reply....
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Although i use the pea/line method of TIM rather than spreading.
> 
> No acids (ie,vinegar) to be used for cleaning a loop before use.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you tried both ways or have you always use the pea/line method instead of pasting....?
Click to expand...

I have tried many ways,i didnt see any temp variation but im wary of mixing air in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> After seeing your bench, I would so love a bench, but with two cats, two dogs and three boys with NERF guns, footballs, cricket balls and a multitude of other things that become air borne.
> 
> I don't think it is wise just yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work thestache


QFT,i had many near misses with my bench....


----------



## DarthBaggins

would this tubing work on a WC setup, or would I need to go with something else?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-2-in-x-3-8-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Tubing-SVIG20/202257575#.UkmsFhBBrFc


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> would this tubing work on a WC setup, or would I need to go with something else?
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-2-in-x-3-8-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Tubing-SVIG20/202257575#.UkmsFhBBrFc


Seems like it could, but you might have some pliability/kink issues with it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

there was a review on it and the guy had used it on his setup and said once the coolant heated up a little bit the tubing became more pliable, I could always use a heat gun to preset the bends I need to since unlike acrylic it should heat a bit easier, I would think.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> there was a review on it and the guy had used it on his setup and said once the coolant heated up a little bit the tubing became more pliable, I could always use a heat gun to preset the bends I need to since unlike acrylic it should heat a bit easier, I would think.


I wouldn't use a heat gun. You're likely to melt it. I would try using some hot water instead. This way you're less likely to ruin the tubing and it should still soften it up a bit for you.


----------



## DarthBaggins

ah yeah true, lol. Don't need to melt it, well even though I have 20ft of it to play with. I was going to use some as a flush loop for pre-install as well.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> would this tubing work on a WC setup, or would I need to go with something else?
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-2-in-x-3-8-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Tubing-SVIG20/202257575#.UkmsFhBBrFc


It works but it kinks easy and will fog up in a matter of days.

(I used it on a trial basis when I first got into water cooling)


----------



## NostraD

I used Watts tubing from Home Depot in my first wc rig! I had it in there about a year. It went cloudy like most tubing - but worked fine otherwise.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm just wanting function for now, and to get a setup running before I get a higher priced tubing, would rather screw up inexpensive tubing rather than the pricier stuff







also I'm going to have to mod the Source 210 case I have now for this all to fit (taking out the 3.5 bay tower







)


----------



## kcuestag

For some reason today my D5 Vario pump started doing some weird noise, as if it were coil whine from a GPU or PSU capacitors (That kind of noise)...

Any ideas as to what may be causing this? My D5 dying?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> For some reason today my D5 Vario pump started doing some weird noise, as if it were coil whine from a GPU or PSU capacitors (That kind of noise)...
> 
> Any ideas as to what may be causing this? My D5 dying?


I'm sorry to hear about that. How long have you had it and are you sure that you've got it positioned correctly in your loop? In other words that you have it situated to be gravity fed by the reservoir.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about that. How long have you had it and are you sure that you've got it positioned correctly in your loop? In other words that you have it situated to be gravity fed by the reservoir.


I've had it for a year, but it was previously owned by a clan mate which had it in use for 2-3 years.

I did not modify the loop at all, and yes, the pump is fed by gravity from the reservoir.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I've had it for a year, but it was previously owned by a clan mate which had it in use for 2-3 years.
> 
> I did not modify the loop at all, and yes, the pump is fed by gravity from the reservoir.


If it's been in operation for that long it could simply be dying. Our warranty for these pumps unfortunately is only 2 years so there wouldn't be any way to RMA it for you if it was one of ours. I think it might simply be time to get it replaced before it does actually go out on you.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about that. How long have you had it and are you sure that you've got it positioned correctly in your loop? In other words that you have it situated to be gravity fed by the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> I've had it for a year, but it was previously owned by a clan mate which had it in use for 2-3 years.
> 
> I did not modify the loop at all, and yes, the pump is fed by gravity from the reservoir.
Click to expand...

3-4 years is reasonable,without knowing the previous owners diligence.

Im surprised tho,they normally roll on much longer.

You sure its the pump making the noise and not some weird resonance issue?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 3-4 years is reasonable,without knowing the previous owners diligence.
> 
> Im surprised tho,they normally roll on much longer.
> 
> You sure its the pump making the noise and not some weird resonance issue?


That's a great question B Neg. If the mounting for the pump has come loose this would account for the noise you're hearing. If you're just using the neoprene pad that we include with it then how it's mounted won't be the issue. Like B Negative says, you don't know how the previous owner used it or maintained it.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 3-4 years is reasonable,without knowing the previous owners diligence.
> 
> Im surprised tho,they normally roll on much longer.
> 
> You sure its the pump making the noise and not some weird resonance issue?


I opened the side panel and stuck my ear next to the pump, I'm pretty sure that's causing the noise.









The previous owner is a person I know and he used it for no more than 1-2 years (Although pump is like a total of 3-5 years old now) and he used it carefully.

I hope the pump is not dying, can't afford one right now.


----------



## szeged

time to buy a hand pump and hook it up



they made me use one of these at work to fill all the pipes we just got done installing because we left the pressure washer at the shop -_- 3 hours later of straight pumping yay its 70% done, f it lets go home.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 3-4 years is reasonable,without knowing the previous owners diligence.
> 
> Im surprised tho,they normally roll on much longer.
> 
> You sure its the pump making the noise and not some weird resonance issue?
> 
> 
> 
> I opened the side panel and stuck my ear next to the pump, I'm pretty sure that's causing the noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The previous owner is a person I know and he used it for no more than 1-2 years (Although pump is like a total of 3-5 years old now) and he used it carefully.
> 
> I hope the pump is not dying, can't afford one right now.
Click to expand...

Just put your finger on the pump and push gently,if the noise changes or stops then its resonance.

Could also be air trapped round the bearing.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just put your finger on the pump and push gently,if the noise changes or stops then its resonance.
> 
> Could also be air trapped round the bearing.


Right, I'll give that a try in half an hour once I get back to the computer.

Thanks for the help, I'll keep you updated.


----------



## LunaP

Hi everyone, had a few questions, and completely new to "custom" water cooling. I'm moved away from AIR and currently on a Corsair h90, recently bought an H100i for my new rig I'm building, but while deciding on a case, then picking on, I started picking up on the latest and greatest, and was really turned on by alot of the artwork people were making with their cases using custom loops.

So I'm here to learn, (and read 5000+ pages in between my hw assignments ) and hoping to get some better insight, as well as top recommendations for a good loop. I'm looking for top recommended parts, CPU Blocks, GPU Blocks, RAD's , sizes, pipe sizes, fittings, etc. So far the top 2 I keep seeing mentioned are EK ( mainly people sanding down the blocks which looks AMAZING crystal clear ) and XSBC.

I have just about everything purchased for my rig except for the motherboard which won't be out till the end of the month.

My Rig parts:

Corsair Carbide Air540 Case
Corsair H100i Cooler (Still have time to return it)
Corsair AX1200i PSU
Corsair professional braided cables (red)
Corsair SP 120 Extreme performance 2 pack x 4

Samsung 1TB Evo SSD
Corsair 3 196gb SSD ( from previous system)

Evga Stock Titan x1 (looking to get a 2nd )

G.Skill Trident X 32gb 8 x 4 2400 (looking to get a 2nd pack for 64gb next New egg sale )

4960x CPU

Mother board will be the Asus RIVE BE, originally was going to go with the setup above, but someone made a good point in the Asus thread, stating if you're going to get high end parts, then it would be insane NOT to research into WC.

I'd love to either get a colored loop or understand how to get the colored liquid as Red would be my preferred color running through the case.

Appreciate any input and direction!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hi everyone, had a few questions, and completely new to "custom" water cooling. I'm moved away from AIR and currently on a Corsair h90, recently bought an H100i for my new rig I'm building, but while deciding on a case, then picking on, I started picking up on the latest and greatest, and was really turned on by alot of the artwork people were making with their cases using custom loops.
> 
> So I'm here to learn, (and read 5000+ pages in between my hw assignments ) and hoping to get some better insight, as well as top recommendations for a good loop. I'm looking for top recommended parts, CPU Blocks, GPU Blocks, RAD's , sizes, pipe sizes, fittings, etc. So far the top 2 I keep seeing mentioned are EK ( mainly people sanding down the blocks which looks AMAZING crystal clear ) and XSBC.
> 
> I have just about everything purchased for my rig except for the motherboard which won't be out till the end of the month.
> 
> My Rig parts:
> 
> Corsair Carbide Air540 Case
> Corsair H100i Cooler (Still have time to return it)
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> Corsair professional braided cables (red)
> Corsair SP 120 Extreme performance 2 pack x 4
> 
> Samsung 1TB Evo SSD
> Corsair 3 196gb SSD ( from previous system)
> 
> Evga Stock Titan x1 (looking to get a 2nd )
> 
> G.Skill Trident X 32gb 8 x 4 2400 (looking to get a 2nd pack for 64gb next New egg sale )
> 
> 4960x CPU
> 
> Mother board will be the Asus RIVE BE, originally was going to go with the setup above, but someone made a good point in the Asus thread, stating if you're going to get high end parts, then it would be insane NOT to research into WC.
> 
> I'd love to either get a colored loop or understand how to get the colored liquid as Red would be my preferred color running through the case.
> 
> Appreciate any input and direction!


for waterblocks, EK are my recommended choice, excellent products, excellent customer service. XSPC have great waterblocks aswell, i love my raystorm cpu block, they also have excellent customer service, one of my xspc pump res combos came with messed up threads on the outlet port, they overnight shipped a replacement for free from china to USA. Havent had to rma with EK yet but just talking to them, they all seem like great people.

for fittings, i have to recommend bitspower, they are more expensive, but theres a reason. Quality. Every bitspower fitting ive had has just been the absolute best ive ever used.

When i use soft tubing i go for 1/2 x 3/4 inner and outer diameter, just personal preference, i like the larger tubing look better.

For radiators i really like the xspc EX series for slim rads, cheap and they work great with low rpm fans to keep noise down.

Alphacool monsta rads are my choice for really really thick rads lol.

for fans, i use corsair sp120 quiet editions in one rig, in the other i use scythe AP-15s, best fans ive owned. though xspc xinruilian 1650 fans are surprisingly amazing, for cheap!

soft tubing i like is primochill adv lrt. crystal clear, kinda hard to make tight bends though.

If you want to do rigid acrylic theres a whole thread dedicated to it here on OCN









hope any of this helped, i know its not the most in depth lol.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Sounds like a plan LunaP, do a search for previous Air 540 build logs and take a look at some of the rads and options they are using - may give you some solid info


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> for waterblocks, EK are my recommended choice, excellent products, excellent customer service. XSPC have great waterblocks aswell, i love my raystorm cpu block, they also have excellent customer service, one of my xspc pump res combos came with messed up threads on the outlet port, they overnight shipped a replacement for free from china to USA. Havent had to rma with EK yet but just talking to them, they all seem like great people.
> 
> for fittings, i have to recommend bitspower, they are more expensive, but theres a reason. Quality. Every bitspower fitting ive had has just been the absolute best ive ever used.
> 
> When i use soft tubing i go for 1/2 x 3/4 inner and outer diameter, just personal preference, i like the larger tubing look better.
> 
> For radiators i really like the xspc EX series for slim rads, cheap and they work great with low rpm fans to keep noise down.
> 
> Alphacool monsta rads are my choice for really really thick rads lol.
> 
> for fans, i use corsair sp120 quiet editions in one rig, in the other i use scythe AP-15s, best fans ive owned. though xspc xinruilian 1650 fans are surprisingly amazing, for cheap!
> 
> soft tubing i like is primochill adv lrt. crystal clear, kinda hard to make tight bends though.
> 
> If you want to do rigid acrylic theres a whole thread dedicated to it here on OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope any of this helped, i know its not the most in depth lol.


That actually helps alot, as fittings are a big part of it, and Price isn't a concern when it comes to something like this for me, I'd rather have high quality parts than sacrifice for something that might not live up to expectations.

I have teh extreme performance (2350 RPM ) SP's though I was looking @ getting a fan controller, if I end up not being able to return them I can just use the fan controller to tune them down to quiet right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Sounds like a plan LunaP, do a search for previous Air 540 build logs and take a look at some of the rads and options they are using - may give you some solid info


Yeah I've been asking for people to post theirs in that thread, though they only post 1 side, as I wanted to get a feel for best structured design..

I just fell in love w/ one persons "Poseidon build" Shown here


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> just finished my Red Poseidon
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-7_zpsd2aeab23.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-8_zpsee036d95.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-5_zpsbcf9d23b.jpg.html
> 
> CSQ polished are awsome






Looking up his parts and so far I'm seeing EK, and that is gorgeous, for those clear blocks do they require sanding or can you purchase them like so? Trying to find the fluid type he used.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> That actually helps alot, as fittings are a big part of it, and Price isn't a concern when it comes to something like this for me, I'd rather have high quality parts than sacrifice for something that might not live up to expectations.
> 
> I have teh extreme performance (2350 RPM ) SP's though I was looking @ getting a fan controller, if I end up not being able to return them I can just use the fan controller to tune them down to quiet right?
> Yeah I've been asking for people to post theirs in that thread, though they only post 1 side, as I wanted to get a feel for best structured design..
> 
> I just fell in love w/ one persons "Poseidon build" Shown here
> 
> Looking up his parts and so far I'm seeing EK, and that is gorgeous, for those clear blocks do they require sanding or can you purchase them like so? Trying to find the fluid type he used.


Titan EK waterblocks come with a frosted CSQ design, and a standard polished non CSQ design, so if you want the circle design without the frosted finish, youll have to polish them down yourself, if you dont want the circles you can get the other block.

frosted csq design - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=38209

polished plexi design - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=38213


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hi everyone, had a few questions, and completely new to "custom" water cooling. I'm moved away from AIR and currently on a Corsair h90, recently bought an H100i for my new rig I'm building, but while deciding on a case, then picking on, I started picking up on the latest and greatest, and was really turned on by alot of the artwork people were making with their cases using custom loops.
> 
> So I'm here to learn, (and read 5000+ pages in between my hw assignments ) and hoping to get some better insight, as well as top recommendations for a good loop. I'm looking for top recommended parts, CPU Blocks, GPU Blocks, RAD's , sizes, pipe sizes, fittings, etc. So far the top 2 I keep seeing mentioned are EK ( mainly people sanding down the blocks which looks AMAZING crystal clear ) and XSBC.
> 
> I have just about everything purchased for my rig except for the motherboard which won't be out till the end of the month.
> 
> My Rig parts:
> 
> Corsair Carbide Air540 Case
> Corsair H100i Cooler (Still have time to return it)
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> Corsair professional braided cables (red)
> Corsair SP 120 Extreme performance 2 pack x 4
> 
> Samsung 1TB Evo SSD
> Corsair 3 196gb SSD ( from previous system)
> 
> Evga Stock Titan x1 (looking to get a 2nd )
> 
> G.Skill Trident X 32gb 8 x 4 2400 (looking to get a 2nd pack for 64gb next New egg sale )
> 
> 4960x CPU
> 
> Mother board will be the Asus RIVE BE, originally was going to go with the setup above, but someone made a good point in the Asus thread, stating if you're going to get high end parts, then it would be insane NOT to research into WC.
> 
> I'd love to either get a colored loop or understand how to get the colored liquid as Red would be my preferred color running through the case.
> 
> Appreciate any input and direction!


Just a word of caution, posts like these can often get lost in this thread, so it may be best to create a new thread and someone will be able to focus on it more there

A lot of people like EK blocks (myself included) for their performance and asthetics (they have employees that are also pretty active in this forum for support). XSPC make some decent blocks as well. Both are at decent price points as well, so that is another reason why you see them used a lot. Watercool/Heatkiller blocks are good as well.

Tubing size is a preference thing. A lot of newer builds are doing hard acrylic, though I'd stick to traditional tubing for a first build.

General rule of thumb for rads is as follows: Have at least 1 120mm rad space per block you have in your system, plus an additional 120mm rad space. So if you have 1 CPU and 1 GPU, you'd want at least 3 120mm rad spaces (for example this could be 1 360 or 1 240 + 1 120). Having more will only help. Too many and you hit diminishing returns though lol. Fans also play a big part into radiator performance. Those SP120s are good fans.

Pumps: Go DDC(small footprint and powerful) or D5(quiet and powerful). Most manufacturers carry these, but may name them differently. Example Swiftech DDC pump is called the MCP35X.

In terms of coloring coolant, you can use dyes or pre-colored coolants/nano fluids. Some people prefer colored tubes and tops, others prefer to color the coolant. I like the looks of colored coolant better. See Mayhems fluids for example (X1 for translucent or Pastel for opaque), they have the best dyes and fluids imo. You can post questions to their thread (see signature) in regards to getting any specific color you'd like.

Hope this helped. I'd again recommend starting a new thread under Water Cooling. Good luck!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> http://static.squarespace.com/static/51998404e4b0ef02d1bd9c2c/t/51ac31fee4b00e0c6e19b7c2/1370239486863/raystorm-kit-revised.pdf
> Page 3 should help you out


Thanks so much for this....Just what i was looking for....


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thanks so much for this....Just what i was looking for....


Glad I could help


----------



## bundymania

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_2285frs0n.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_2228g9s1r.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_2234uzsw3.jpg http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_2236blsi7.jpg


----------



## lowfat

Those blue eLoops look wicked.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah, snef's builds are sick...


----------



## Pheozero

Snef's builds make me happy in the pants.

Anyways, I'm pretty sure this has been mentioned somewhere in this thread, but does it matter if my cards go series or parallel? Is there a noticeable difference between them?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Those blue eLoops look wicked.


Agreed


----------



## bomberjun

res-pump loop.


----------



## thestache

Clear EK coolant smells sweet. It makes me want to taste it. I won't, but I want to...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-build-log-custom-solidworks-designed-cnc-machined-acetal-case-gtx-titans-ek-watercooling/100#post_20899151



More in the build log.


----------



## kcuestag

Quick update on my Laing D5 Vario pump squeeling noise. I tried pushing it with my finger as B-NEGATIVE suggested and the noise does not stop or reduce, it's the same.

Does this mean the pump is dying?


----------



## Killa Cam

got my first black ice rad which is a sr1 480. damn, the build quality hype is real.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> got my first black ice rad which is a sr1 480. damn, the build quality hype is real.


Agreed . . . . Well worth the premium price
















Now if they'd just come out with 80mm thick versions of the SR1









Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Those blue eLoops look wicked.


Yeah, I'm glad Phobya made red ones and Alphacool made blue ones


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I just fell in love w/ one persons "Poseidon build" Shown here
> 
> Looking up his parts and so far I'm seeing EK, and that is gorgeous, for those clear blocks do they require sanding or can you purchase them like so? Trying to find the fluid type he used.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah, snef's builds are sick...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Snef's builds make me happy in the pants.
> 
> Anyways, I'm pretty sure this has been mentioned somewhere in this thread, but does it matter if my cards go series or parallel? Is there a noticeable difference between them?


thanks everyone very appreciate comments

i used EK blood red coolant

for serie or parallel, never did a test, and a lot of post say one or other
me i used parallel for esthetic only and my gpu stay under 47 under 100%, no need for more


----------



## kpoeticg

Thank YOU for your SICK build logs. Also how do you compare EK coolant to others? Any dye buildup or corrosion?


----------



## snef

i used ek coolant from March with xspc and ek water block and no issue, no corrosion , gunk, nothing

on parallel, i used Mayhem Pastel in 2 rigs and exact same thing, no corrosion, gunk or any issue

i used feser coolant last year, used it for 18 month
still no issue

the only issue i had is with distilled water and kill coil

corosion appears on one of my koolance gpu block


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Got 2 more questions to ask.....1) How would one drain a loop without having a valve or Quick Disconnects..?....2) Doing my first WC loop and by all means im nervous as hell with wondering if i have put the blocks/tubes on properly or will it leak once i finally fire it up....? The question is whats more likely to cause a leak in a newly build system....?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Got 2 more questions to ask.....1) How would one drain a loop without having a valve or Quick Disconnects..?....2) Doing my first WC loop and by all means im nervous as hell with wondering if i have put the blocks/tubes on properly or will it leak once i finally fire it up....? The question is whats more likely to cause a leak in a newly build system....?


if you have a reservoir with a fill port on top, the 750D isnt what i would call a monstrous case, just tilt and let it flow out









the #1 thing i saw leak when i first started building was minor leaks where fittings werent tightened down all the way, its not gonna be a firehose type leak unless you pretty much just didnt even put them in at all, itll be small trickles really, nothing to worry about, just have lots of paper towels ready.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Got 2 more questions to ask.....1) How would one drain a loop without having a valve or Quick Disconnects..?....2) Doing my first WC loop and by all means im nervous as hell with wondering if i have put the blocks/tubes on properly or will it leak once i finally fire it up....? The question is whats more likely to cause a leak in a newly build system....?


I have neither a valve nor a qdc. I just put a container under an extra port of my res and let it flow out.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I have neither a valve nor a qdc. I just put a container under an extra port of my res and let it flow out.


Thanks for this. I've been looking at the fittings I'd need for a drain valve and I'm not sure I want to spend all that extra money for it.

Still debating.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i used ek coolant from March with xspc and ek water block and no issue, no corrosion , gunk, nothing
> 
> on parallel, i used Mayhem Pastel in 2 rigs and exact same thing, no corrosion, gunk or any issue
> 
> i used feser coolant last year, used it for 18 month
> still no issue
> 
> the only issue i had is with distilled water and kill coil
> 
> corosion appears on one of my koolance gpu block


Dammit Lol, that didn't help me at all. I've been trying to choose between EK, Pastel, and Feser =P


----------



## Pheozero

I do love me some Mayhems Blueberry Pastel. +1 to Mayhems. Only downside is that it doesn't smell like blueberries.


----------



## DarthBaggins

would be huge if it did smell of blueberries.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if you have a reservoir with a fill port on top, the 750D isnt what i would call a monstrous case, just tilt and let it flow out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the #1 thing i saw leak when i first started building was minor leaks where fittings werent tightened down all the way, its not gonna be a firehose type leak unless you pretty much just didnt even put them in at all, itll be small trickles really, nothing to worry about, just have lots of paper towels ready.


Thank for your speedy reply,only hope i have done up all the fittings properly,also the gpu blocks....Time will tell....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I have neither a valve nor a qdc. I just put a container under an extra port of my res and let it flow out.


Would love to see how you do this....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Thanks for this. I've been looking at the fittings I'd need for a drain valve and I'm not sure I want to spend all that extra money for it.
> 
> Still debating.


In the same boat as you,if i needed it i would get it,but for the fact it can be done without i just dnt want to spend the extra money,need a cheaper hobby now....


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I do love me some Mayhems Blueberry Pastel. +1 to Mayhems. Only downside is that it doesn't smell like blueberries.


I'm thinking of doing Pastel White with Red Tubing. I'm doing a Red/White/Black build with the upcoming RIVE BE. Only thing is I bought an XSPC Photon Res and i doubt the LED will show through the Pastel. Might just have to sacrifice the light beam...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I do love me some Mayhems Blueberry Pastel. +1 to Mayhems. Only downside is that it doesn't smell like blueberries.


One more plus for pastel is it is rated to stay in your system for 2-3 years without draining lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> One more plus for pastel is it is rated to stay in your system for 2-3 years without draining lol


Did not know that, but I'm seeing it's not recommended w/ certain types of tubing and cooling components. But I can see why as most have anti-corrosive properties in them much like automotive cooling fluids.


----------



## kpoeticg

I know it's not recommended for types of tubing that have plasticizer/leeching problems


----------



## kpoeticg

Primochill Advanced LRT seems to be the top choice nowadays for non-plasticizer tubing. Can anybody let me know the deal with acrylic tubing as far the negatives like platicizer etc....?

Sorry, didn't mean to do 2 posts in a row, thought i hit the edit button....


----------



## lowfat

There shouldn't be any negatives of acrylic besides all the work it takes to bend and install them. The lack of plasticizer is one of the major reasons I am moving all my rigs over to acrylic. Well that and the fact that it looks awesome when done right.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thank for your speedy reply,only hope i have done up all the fittings properly,also the gpu blocks....Time will tell....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to see how you do this....
> In the same boat as you,if i needed it i would get it,but for the fact it can be done without i just dnt want to spend the extra money,need a cheaper hobby now....


Sure, it's exactly the same as flipping a filled water bottle upside down and unscrewing the cap. Just make sure u have a container for the liquid to flow down into.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> There shouldn't be any negatives of acrylic besides all the work it takes to bend and install them. The lack of plasticizer is one of the major reasons I am moving all my rigs over to acrylic. Well that and the fact that it looks awesome when done right.


Thanx for the info. I'm considering acrylic too. Good to know it has more benefits than just the great looks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Did not know that, but I'm seeing it's not recommended w/ certain types of tubing and cooling components. But I can see why as most have anti-corrosive properties in them much like automotive cooling fluids.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I know it's not recommended for types of tubing that have plasticizer/leeching problems


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT seems to be the top choice nowadays for non-plasticizer tubing. Can anybody let me know the deal with acrylic tubing as far the negatives like platicizer etc....?
> 
> Sorry, didn't mean to do 2 posts in a row, thought i hit the edit button....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> There shouldn't be any negatives of acrylic besides all the work it takes to bend and install them. The lack of plasticizer is one of the major reasons I am moving all my rigs over to acrylic. Well that and the fact that it looks awesome when done right.


All of this, lol.

Acrylic doesn't have any issues other than a pain to put in. People have been using the Bitspower crystal links long before the full acrylic rigs started showing up and to my knowledge, there have never been issues with the crystal links.

For standard tubing, the Primochill Advance LRT is a top choice


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanks for the info. The "pain to put in" is the rewarding part though =). I'm strongly considering acrylic for my build. I've heard good things about the Primochill, E22, & EK fittings for acrylic too. Between those and Bitspower, is there any that clearly stand out above others? Also, i need Brass with no Nickel. I've gone pretty far in my build sticking with copper/brass and avoiding bling. I can't let my fittings be the component that changes that =P


----------



## bomberjun

^
So true on what you said. Acrylic tubing is so challenging to install. And im enjoying every piece of it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> There shouldn't be any negatives of acrylic besides all the work it takes to bend and install them. The lack of plasticizer is one of the major reasons I am moving all my rigs over to acrylic. Well that and the fact that it looks awesome when done right.


All of this.

The time it takes to do should be looked at as an investment,be secure in the knowledge you will never have to change it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need some help,just wanted to know whats the best way to flush my rads and also the best water solution mean distilled/boiled or just regular tap water.....still at work but found out my rads and blocks came in today,and this will be my first time W.C so I just want to get everything right....also do I need to flush my gpu/cpu blocks or even the tubing...also is there a particular method to add paste to a gpu block....


To flush ALL my components, I use a Pond Pump, Home Depot 5 Gallon Bucket, GE 5 Micron Filtration Unit, and Distilled Water. I went through about 10 Gallons of CVS Distilled Water to flush 3 rads, Apogee Drive II, Reservoir, and EK Rive Full Board Block. Just a heads up.

If you want the links that helped me or exact parts i used, just let me know. If you ask in the thread and i don't respond feel free to shoot me a PM. If i don't respond in here it's just cuz this thread progresses fast and i missed the post =P



I have the Bucket Cover on when I'm flushing. I just took the pic like that to show the pump


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All of this.
> 
> The time it takes to do should be looked at as an investment,be secure in the knowledge you will never have to change it.


That's why no matter the suffering, I'm going to finish my acrylic and then sell all my pretty colored tubing!

Thanks - T


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> To flush ALL my components, I use a Pond Pump, Home Depot 5 Gallon Bucket, GE 5 Micron Filtration Unit, and Distilled Water. I went through about 10 Gallons of CVS Distilled Water to flush 3 rads, Apogee Drive II, Reservoir, and EK Rive Full Board Block. Just a heads up.
> 
> If you want the links that helped me or exact parts i used, just let me know. If you ask in the thread and i don't respond feel free to shoot me a PM. If i don't respond in here it's just cuz this thread progresses fast and i missed the post =P
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Bucket Cover on when I'm flushing. I just took the pic like that to show the pump


i was going to flush mine the same way, and was debating on just going ahead and flushing the radiator now before I get the block and pump.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've heard that acrylic tubing isn't good for pre-made coolants. Like Feser, Koolance, EK, etc...
Is that true?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> i was going to flush mine the same way, and was debating on just going ahead and flushing the radiator now before I get the block and pump.


I flushed all my components 1 at a time. Then i flushed them altogether and turned on my Apogee Drive II and turned it up to full blast just to do a leak test.
No reason to wait for your other stuff before u flush your rad if your doing it the way i do it.

I got everything I needed at Home Depot too


----------



## Sunreeper

I've never heard anybody have any problems with acrylic tubing


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> To flush ALL my components, I use a Pond Pump, Home Depot 5 Gallon Bucket, GE 5 Micron Filtration Unit, and Distilled Water. I went through about 10 Gallons of CVS Distilled Water to flush 3 rads, Apogee Drive II, Reservoir, and EK Rive Full Board Block. Just a heads up.
> 
> If you want the links that helped me or exact parts i used, just let me know. If you ask in the thread and i don't respond feel free to shoot me a PM. If i don't respond in here it's just cuz this thread progresses fast and i missed the post =P
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Bucket Cover on when I'm flushing. I just took the pic like that to show the pump


Can I ask what pump you are using? Just looked up several pumps and they range from $10 - 250! Also, which filter are you using? Thanks


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I've never heard anybody have any problems with acrylic tubing


I don't remember the thread i saw it or if it was OCN or not. I just remember reading that pre-made coolants aren't supposed to be used with acrylic. Dunno if there's any truth in it, that's why i asked =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Can I ask what pump you are using? Just looked up several pumps and they range from $10 - 250! Also, which filter are you using? Thanks


Well all the info I read recommended the 130GPH pump they have at home depot which is like 20 bux. But the one i went to only had the 60GPH which is the smallest/cheapest, the 130GPH with UV Protection which was like $60, and the regular 350GPH and up. They were out of stock on all the ones i wanted. So i got the regular 350GPH. I think it was $40




The regular 130GPH one they sell at Home Depot is really all u need though. It's like $20-$25.
Also, make sure you get a 5 micron filter to put in the housing. You can get a cheaper housing than the one i got.


----------



## defiler2k

So I finally got a response from XSPC on my support ticket and even after all this time all that I hear from them is "It shouldn't do that" but nothing on replacing the faulty reservoir and tubing. Fail!

On the other hand, EK sent me a replacement bridge for the one that arrived cross threaded after a quick email exchange. Now that is good customer support!

I ordered a ColdZero plate for my 900D and Im looking to install bulkhead adapters to route my tubing through the plate, any suggestions to cut the plate and bulkhead adapters?


----------



## derickwm

Lulz who's ready?


----------



## SinatraFan

Thanks for the help


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've heard that acrylic tubing isn't good for pre-made coolants. Like Feser, Koolance, EK, etc...
> Is that true?


Don't think that would be the case...If that is true, then you shouldn't use blocks such as EK's acrylic top with pre-made coolants, lol

Chemically, I do not think anything in any pre-mixed coolant would react with acrylic....whoever said that seems missinformed


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Thanks for the help


NP. THIS is the filter i used cuz I'm pretty sure it's 5 Micron.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Don't think that would be the case...If that is true, then you shouldn't use blocks such as EK's acrylic top with pre-made coolants, lol
> 
> Chemically, I do not think anything in any pre-mixed coolant would react with acrylic....whoever said that seems missinformed


Good to hear. Thanx =)


----------



## Trolle BE

a bad picture but i kinda like the effect of my shaky hands











when i get more money its time to do some upgrades again


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lulz who's ready?


I'm ready for you to send me them


----------



## kcuestag

So....

Another update on my D5 Vario pump noise. Today it stopped doing that noise, it's completely gone, back to silent.









What could have caused this noise that was similar to a coil whine? I never heard of air bubbles causing such type of noise.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> So....
> 
> Another update on my D5 Vario pump noise. Today it stopped doing that noise, it's completely gone, back to silent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What could have caused this noise that was similar to a coil whine? I never heard of air bubbles causing such type of noise.


All it takes is a small one in the bearing,it will 'squeal like a pig'


----------



## Magical Eskimo

I would like to join the club!







my rig Stormtide, first time watercooling.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lulz who's ready?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ready for you to send me them
Click to expand...

You and everyone else


----------



## wermad

fyi: Koolance QDC recall -

http://www.techpowerup.com/191830/koolance-issues-recall-for-qd2-fxx-quick-disconnects.html


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> I would like to join the club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my rig Stormtide, first time watercooling.


I don't like blue but I love it when people use that blue, always looks really juicy.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Back with 2 more questions....Hopefully will be finishing my loop tomorrow and i was just wondering what should i do if i leak happens ?,keep in mind i'm building without a valve or a qdc....Question 2 does the size of the res matter ?,why im asking is because i just went with a bitspower multi 80 res because the bitspower mulit-z 150 is out of stock and i wanted something to test my rig with....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Back with 2 more questions....Hopefully will be finishing my loop tomorrow and i was just wondering what should i do if i leak happens ?,keep in mind i'm building without a valve or a qdc....Question 2 does the size of the res matter ?,why im asking is because i just went with a bitspower multi 80 res because the bitspower mulit-z 150 is out of stock and i wanted something to test my rig with....


1) Leak test first. Jump start your psu only and power on only the pump. Try to keep the main components disconnected if possible.

2) No, reservoir size has no impact on your temps. It really comes down to practicality and looks tbh. Having large res vs a small one has no thermal advantages. I prefer a medium size res so I don't have to be filling the reservoir frequently when getting the loop going.

Additional notes: If you don't have a drainage system, just disconnect a line to drain your loop. I do recommend a drain line or option. It makes it a lot easier to drain the loop when needed. I have a male-to-male xspc adapter attached to the Phobya qdc at an used port on the pump top. My pump is attached to the reservoir so it drains better this way. You can also setup a "T" line at any low point.


----------



## LiquidHaus

redid the loop on my amd rig last night. love the nzxt hue with the 800d.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> redid the loop on my amd rig last night. love the nzxt hue with the 800d.


Can you take a pic with the lights on


----------



## szeged

hey anyone from EK, always wondered, do you think you guys will ever do a "black sparkle" like finish for your copper blocks? would look nice with the bitspower fittings


----------



## Johnny Rook

My modded case:







This is a project in constant renovation; it's never really finished.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 1) Leak test first. Jump start your psu only and power on only the pump. Try to keep the main components disconnected if possible.
> 
> 2) No, reservoir size has no impact on your temps. It really comes down to practicality and looks tbh. Having large res vs a small one has no thermal advantages. I prefer a medium size res so I don't have to be filling the reservoir frequently when getting the loop going.
> 
> Additional notes: If you don't have a drainage system, just disconnect a line to drain your loop. I do recommend a drain line or option. It makes it a lot easier to drain the loop when needed. I have a male-to-male xspc adapter attached to the Phobya qdc at an used port on the pump top. My pump is attached to the reservoir so it drains better this way. You can also setup a "T" line at any low point.


I definitely will do a leak test first and also bought a psu jumper,but what if it leaks while doing a test....Do i immediately empty the loop are try and tighten the fittings....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 1) Leak test first. Jump start your psu only and power on only the pump. Try to keep the main components disconnected if possible.
> 
> 2) No, reservoir size has no impact on your temps. It really comes down to practicality and looks tbh. Having large res vs a small one has no thermal advantages. I prefer a medium size res so I don't have to be filling the reservoir frequently when getting the loop going.
> 
> Additional notes: If you don't have a drainage system, just disconnect a line to drain your loop. I do recommend a drain line or option. It makes it a lot easier to drain the loop when needed. I have a male-to-male xspc adapter attached to the Phobya qdc at an used port on the pump top. My pump is attached to the reservoir so it drains better this way. You can also setup a "T" line at any low point.
> 
> 
> 
> I definitely will do a leak test first and also bought a psu jumper,but what if it leaks while doing a test....Do i immediately empty the loop are try and tighten the fittings....
Click to expand...

Pretty much depends on the nature of the leak . . . . .

You'll have to make a judgment call . . . . and it's always better to err on the conservative side.

If it looks like seepage where the fitting screws into a block for example, power down and see if it can be tightened a bit, sometimes you "forget" one and the o rings leaks.

Always power down before doing anything though, as in case you crack something while tightening, at least it won't be under pressure.

If it doesn't fix easily where something was noticeably loose, then something is wrong and you'll need to drain and investigate.

I usually do an overnight air leakdown test and save the mess of discovering coolant oozing out onto expensive hardware or having to drain to investicate.

Darlene


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Pretty much depends on the nature of the leak . . . . .
> 
> You'll have to make a judgment call . . . . and it's always better to err on the conservative side.
> 
> If it looks like seepage where the fitting screws into a block for example, power down and see if it can be tightened a bit, sometimes you "forget" one and the o rings leaks.
> 
> Always power down before doing anything though, as in case you crack something while tightening, at least it won't be under pressure.
> 
> If it doesn't fix easily where something was noticeably loose, then something is wrong and you'll need to drain and investigate.
> 
> I usually do an overnight air leakdown test and save the mess of discovering coolant oozing out onto expensive hardware.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the reply,but i must ask whats an ''air leakdown'' ?....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Pretty much depends on the nature of the leak . . . . .
> 
> You'll have to make a judgment call . . . . and it's always better to err on the conservative side.
> 
> If it looks like seepage where the fitting screws into a block for example, power down and see if it can be tightened a bit, sometimes you "forget" one and the o rings leaks.
> 
> Always power down before doing anything though, as in case you crack something while tightening, at least it won't be under pressure.
> 
> If it doesn't fix easily where something was noticeably loose, then something is wrong and you'll need to drain and investigate.
> 
> I usually do an overnight air leakdown test and save the mess of discovering coolant oozing out onto expensive hardware.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply,but i must ask whats an ''air leakdown'' ?....
Click to expand...

Charge the system with low pressure air, max is 5 to 7.5 psi, and wait overnight to see if it drops any.

I charge thru my drain lines with a gage in a fill/vent line and close off the drain valve to lock the air in the system.

Darlene


----------



## stickg1

^ genius Darlene


----------



## Magical Eskimo

That is a stroke of genious right there. However I'm not sure how many people have that sort of kit


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 1) Leak test first. Jump start your psu only and power on only the pump. Try to keep the main components disconnected if possible.
> 
> 2) No, reservoir size has no impact on your temps. It really comes down to practicality and looks tbh. Having large res vs a small one has no thermal advantages. I prefer a medium size res so I don't have to be filling the reservoir frequently when getting the loop going.
> 
> Additional notes: If you don't have a drainage system, just disconnect a line to drain your loop. I do recommend a drain line or option. It makes it a lot easier to drain the loop when needed. I have a male-to-male xspc adapter attached to the Phobya qdc at an used port on the pump top. My pump is attached to the reservoir so it drains better this way. You can also setup a "T" line at any low point.
> 
> 
> 
> I definitely will do a leak test first and also bought a psu jumper,but what if it leaks while doing a test....Do i immediately empty the loop are try and tighten the fittings....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Pretty much depends on the nature of the leak . . . . .
> 
> You'll have to make a judgment call . . . . and it's always better to err on the conservative side.
> 
> If it looks like seepage where the fitting screws into a block for example, power down and see if it can be tightened a bit, sometimes you "forget" one and the o rings leaks.
> 
> Always power down before doing anything though, as in case you crack something while tightening, at least it won't be under pressure.
> 
> If it doesn't fix easily where something was noticeably loose, then something is wrong and you'll need to drain and investigate.
> 
> *I usually do an overnight air leakdown test* and save the mess of discovering coolant oozing out onto expensive hardware or having to drain to investicate.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

This.

Standard plumbing trick,hook up a compressor of air pump to the loop with a pressure gauge.
Pump the loop up to 10 psi and leave it with the gauge connected.
Any leak will cause pressure loss,leak testing with no fluids in sight.

I have detailed this earlier in the thread as my preferred test method


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Standard plumbing trick,hook up a compressor of air pump to the loop with a pressure gauge.
> Pump the loop up to 10 psi and leave it with the gauge connected.
> Any leak will cause pressure loss,leak testing with no fluids in sight.


That is a great idea!

The only con I could think of is not knowing where it's leaking, but you could always use a leak-test solution or a mild solution of soap and glycerin around suspect spots if you noticed a pressure drop.

If it foams then there is the leak.

Here is a how-to:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5993424_make-leak_detection-soap.html

Edit: Actually, would this be pressurized enough for most leak testers? I think so, but maybe others could chime in.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Standard plumbing trick,hook up a compressor of air pump to the loop with a pressure gauge.
> Pump the loop up to 10 psi and leave it with the gauge connected.
> Any leak will cause pressure loss,leak testing with no fluids in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a great idea!
> 
> The only con I could think of is not knowing where it's leaking, but you could always use a leak-test solution or a mild solution of soap and water around suspect spots if you noticed a pressure drop.
> 
> If it foams then there is the leak.
> 
> They do this at the dry ice plant I work at.
Click to expand...

Exactly.

Again,there is a post from me much earlier in the thread detailing this technique,I will have to link it to the front page.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Or you can use the opposite - a vacuum tester like _this_ super super cheap


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Or you can use the opposite - a vacuum tester like _this_ super super cheap


That wont work with leaktest solutions,it will suck rather than blow bubbles,any contaminants (the solution) will be sucked into your clean loop and the rubber tube could collapse.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Plumbers use vacuum leak testing all the time, you can test an empty loop - but you're right, this may only work on hard line systems.

(the one I quoted does pressure and vacuum)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Need something like a automotive coolant pressure tester, could rig something up w/ and guage and a hand pump w/ a fitting and pump to desired system pressure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Plumbers use vacuum leak testing all the time, you can test an empty loop - but you're right, this may only work on hard line systems.


Erm,you know i am a plumber right?
I have not used vacuum testing for anything but im a domestic plumber,the commercial HVAC guys may use something like this.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Erm,you know i am a plumber right?


Erm no... but I do now lol.. I was a motor mechanic for 26 yrs - you scratch my back and all that


----------



## stickg1

It's not only a trick but most counties I have built in, the rough-in plumbing has to be pressurized and checked by a building inspector at a set pressure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It's not only a trick but most counties I have built in, the rough-in plumbing has to be pressurized and checked by a building inspector at a set pressure.


Yup,even soil stacks are required to pass this pressure test.

in other news,Admirals are indeed garbage...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Most liquid based systems only show leaks under pressure, under vacuum you'll only be able to test on a dry system even then would be hard to find said leak I would think.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Or you can use the opposite - a vacuum tester like _this_ super super cheap


Hmm, I'd rather use a bubble solution personally, but that's just me.

However, that seems like a great option to quickly *bleed* a loop.

Would this cause any problems guys and gals?


----------



## Willi

I think using positive pressure for bleeding purposes will quicken it a bit until air bleeds into your drain and leaks instead of pushing the water out, but by then I imagine that with a well-positioned drain, most, if not all water has been pushed out. Good idea there, BonzaiTree

I'd use positive pressure test for leak-testing/draining and vacuum to help bleed the loop from any air bubbles (might help on a hard-line loop like copper or acrylic piping).
It's really annoying to know that your rads and blocks are air-free, but there is a squealing bubble in your pump refusing to leave... Last time it took me 3 hours of moving the case around, tuning the pump off and back on to see if it was still there, then moving again and letting it rest a bit to get rid of those. Bay-res with pumps are really a pain...


----------



## defiler2k

Update on my argument with XSPC..

They declined my request to replace the reservoir due to the cracking on the front acrylic which only happened after I followed the instructions provided by the support rep to flush with vinegar and water. Their response is that cracking shouldn't happen under normal use... well I guess Im not buying anything XSPC related ever again.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Update on my argument with XSPC..
> 
> They declined my request to replace the reservoir due to the cracking on the front acrylic which only happened after I followed the instructions provided by the support rep to flush with vinegar and water. Their response is that cracking shouldn't happen under normal use... well I guess Im not buying anything XSPC related ever again.


Pics of the crack?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pics of the crack?


Happened here too, but mine fell down the stairs....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Standard plumbing trick,hook up a compressor of air pump to the loop with a pressure gauge.
> Pump the loop up to 10 psi and leave it with the gauge connected.
> Any leak will cause pressure loss,leak testing with no fluids in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a great idea!
> 
> The only con I could think of is not knowing where it's leaking, but you could always use a leak-test solution or a mild solution of soap and glycerin around suspect spots if you noticed a pressure drop.
> 
> If it foams then there is the leak.
> 
> Here is a how-to:
> 
> http://www.ehow.com/how_5993424_make-leak_detection-soap.html
> 
> Edit: Actually, would this be pressurized enough for most leak testers? I think so, but maybe others could chime in.
Click to expand...

Another less messy way to sort out what's leaking is to take a popsicle stick, or the little thin sticks you used in chemistry class and light one end, and once it's burning blow it out.

You'll notice that if you blow lightly on the end, the red ember glows more brightly, use that to trace for leaks.

When it glows a bit brighter, the leak is blowing on it.

As long as you have patience and the surrounding air is still, you'll find your leak without any mess.

Darlene


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pics of the crack?




The front of the reservoir looks like a roadmap. Funny thing is that it is only on the front no other part of the reservoir is like that. If it were because of something I did to the reservoir wouldn't this be in other parts of the acrylic instead of just concentrating on the front.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Standard plumbing trick,hook up a compressor of air pump to the loop with a pressure gauge.
> Pump the loop up to 10 psi and leave it with the gauge connected.
> Any leak will cause pressure loss,leak testing with no fluids in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a great idea!
> 
> The only con I could think of is not knowing where it's leaking, but you could always use a leak-test solution or a mild solution of soap and glycerin around suspect spots if you noticed a pressure drop.
> 
> If it foams then there is the leak.
> 
> Here is a how-to:
> 
> http://www.ehow.com/how_5993424_make-leak_detection-soap.html
> 
> Edit: Actually, would this be pressurized enough for most leak testers? I think so, but maybe others could chime in.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Another less messy way to sort out what's leaking is to take a popsicle stick, or the little thin sticks you used in chemistry class and light one end, and once it's burning blow it out.
> 
> *You'll notice that if you blow lightly on the end, the red ember glows more brightly, use that to trace for leaks.*
> 
> When it glows a bit brighter, the leak is blowing on it.
> 
> As long as you have patience and the surrounding air is still, you'll find your leak without any mess.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

A solid idea,practical and clean.
+rep for an elegant alternative.


----------



## wermad

Damn, getting way too overtly complicated when leaking testing







. I've had my share of leaks, mostly do due







on my part, and my components have survived. As long as you try to not feed power into them you simply break down the part affected and dry it up as much as possible.

Most of my leaks were small ones. With large ones occurring away from the main components. If you do get some liquid on your main components, just break down things and clean things up. You might have to remove blocks and/or heatsinks (recommended) just to get every last bit of water. Then let it air dry if you wish or use a blow dryer (or heat gun in low).

Triple check things and most of the time, you won't have a leak. Granted, you can't stop crappy build quality which can cause leaks but things that are avoidable you can. Check your compression rings are as tight as possible. everything is screwed on right, nothing looks out of place. Have a small (led) flashlight ready to help you peak into the small areas where its harder to see.

If you have a leak. Cut the power to the psu, don't panic, start draining the system, clean up the leak, and fix the leak


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, getting way too overtly complicated when leaking testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yup. My leak test is about 5 minutes long. If the system isn't leaking by the times finish bleeding then it is good enough for me. In 10 years of watercooling I've never had a leak that I didn't notice during the bleed. And I've never had one develop out of no where.


----------



## szeged

if youre getting random leaks out of no where, you probably just didnt notice it leaking during the leak test months before


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help me out,really appreciate it and I must admit I learned a few things from this discussion. Last parts wont be in til tomorrow so knock on wood a first time watecooling noob like myself would've learned enough from you guys to do this properly....


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yup. My leak test is about 5 minutes long. If the system isn't leaking by the times finish bleeding then it is good enough for me. In 10 years of watercooling I've never had a leak that I didn't notice during the bleed. And I've never had one develop out of no where.


+1


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if youre getting random leaks out of no where, you probably just didnt notice it leaking during the leak test months before


Maybe sometimes, but leaking from bad solder joints on a poor QC rad often won't show up until enough thermal cycles of heating and cooling expansion and contraction have imparted the requisite amount of mechanical stress.

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

^True


----------



## kpoeticg

One of the reason I like flushing all my components with the Pond Pump/Ge Filter method is because it also dbl's as a leak test =)


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A solid idea,practical and clean.
> +rep for an elegant alternative.


We were on the topic earlier of plumbing, well this happened to me earlier today at work, actually right after my comment about plumbing inspections...

Anyway I was ripping out some studs on the jobsite today in an old bathroom, I thought I had all brackets pulled off and the pipes loose, well I ripped the stud away and cracked a pipe. Water gushing out like a geyser! Took a while to find the water main, and the handle actually broke while trying to turn it!!! Lol, good thing we're wrecking the place! I got it shut off after a minute or two, it was a major







moment. Anyway just thought I would share, I found it ironic that it happened right when we were talking about plumbing in this thread...


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> We were on the topic earlier of plumbing, well this happened to me earlier today at work, actually right after my comment about plumbing inspections...
> 
> Anyway I was ripping out some studs on the jobsite today in an old bathroom, I thought I had all brackets pulled off and the pipes loose, well I ripped the stud away and cracked a pipe. Water gushing out like a geyser! Took a while to find the water main, and the handle actually broke while trying to turn it!!! Lol, good thing we're wrecking the place! I got it shut off after a minute or two, it was a major
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moment. Anyway just thought I would share, I found it ironic that it happened right when we were talking about plumbing in this thread...


Oh my gosh, especially with the handle breaking it sounds like it was out of a movie!

That sucks, I'm glad you got it sorted out though


----------



## Chomuco

tremend http://imageshack.us/user/gonzag88


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> tremend http://imageshack.us/user/gonzag88


not a fan of the excessive black fittings, but everything else looks wonderful!


----------



## lowfat

Repost from the Mayhems thread. I recently changed the colour in my loop to something a lot darker.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4262-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4264-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4279-1.jpg.html


----------



## grimmy

looked to good not to post my rig got a build log at bottom



http://www.overclock.net/t/1213648/project-dream-eater-first-water-set-up-and-case-mod-cheers-finished


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Repost from the Mayhems thread. I recently changed the colour in my loop to something a lot darker.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4262-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4264-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4279-1.jpg.html


Is that clear acrylic tubing? Looks beautiful


----------



## DevilGear44

Here's what I got after leaving the scene for two and a half years: EK blocks are fine again, coolants and dyes are in, and everyone is bending copper and acrylic tubing. Anything else?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Is that clear acrylic tubing? Looks beautiful


Yessir.


----------



## rickyman0319

how do i make UV light inside the pc grow? what do i need to make it work. i got UV blood red tube from primchill.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Here's what I got after leaving the scene for two and a half years: EK blocks are fine again, coolants and dyes are in, and everyone is bending copper and acrylic tubing. Anything else?


Also: tons of angled / specialty compression fittings to make straight runs, don't see barbs very often, Primochill has fixed its plasticizer issues and their Advanced LRT is considered one of the best soft (regular) tubings.

This is what I've gathered from lurking and planning my first loop.


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Also: tons of angled / specialty compression fittings to make straight runs, don't see barbs very often, Primochill has fixed its plasticizer issues and their Advanced LRT is considered one of the best soft (regular) tubings.
> 
> This is what I've gathered from lurking and planning my first loop.


Remember when fittings were the cheapest part of a loop? Pepperidge Farm remembers.

Here's a popycasta from the small form factor forum:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> I used to post in this thread every day 2.5 years ago, and then the military happened. Been saving up for a couple months and just had to pull the trigger after years of waiting. Always knew it would have to be SFF because we're by far the coolest, most interesting, and often the most frustrated enthusiasts in the entire community. Yay for us!
> 
> Specs as follows:
> 
> EVGA Hadron (fell in love with the look and window; don't mind the power supply )
> 4770K with Maximus VI Impact (I would have given a left nut for a RoG ITX just a couple years ago)
> GTX 780
> 840 Pro 256GB with a WD Black 4TB
> 16GB Mushkin 2133
> Slim slot-load Bluray burner
> 
> Also got a Korean IPS monitor (QNIX QX2710 2560x1440) and a Corsair K70 keyboard with brown switches.
> 
> As for cooling... couldn't resist, just had to go back to water.
> 
> 
> 
> Putting UV LEDs in the blocks to bring out the glow in the yellow tubing, hoping to get an Iron Man vibe with the tubing and fittings; also using UV yellow O-rings and UV orange zip ties for cable management. A small amber LED strip in the bottom should give it a nice yellow glow. Fans will be AP-15s.
> 
> Planning on heavily modding the top panel to fit the 280mm inside the case, with the 2 fans in pull on the outside; I don't think it'll ruin the small compact look of the case too bad so long as I can do it right.
> 
> I realize what I'm trying to cool here but I'm going to be undervolting if anything, and my ambients are stupidly low here in Washington so I'm not too worried.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> looked to good not to post my rig got a build log at bottom
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1213648/project-dream-eater-first-water-set-up-and-case-mod-cheers-finished


Not normally a fan of multi color builds but for some reason this build takes me back to my youth lol


----------



## Squashie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how do i make UV light inside the pc grow? what do i need to make it work. i got UV blood red tube from primchill.


Maybe try something like this:
http://www.maxfps.no/produkt/341


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its my Birthday!

So where are all the things?


----------



## Beakz

HAPPY BIRTHDAY! Hope all your WC dreams come true


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Just wanted to run my loop by you guys just to make sure i'm doing it right....I am using an EX 360 on top and a EX 240 at the bottom,the loop will be like this,res/pump~240 rad~gpu blocks~360 rad~cpu block then back to res....Also how much distilled water should be enough to buy....?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> HAPPY BIRTHDAY! Hope all your WC dreams come true


i think you mean " i hope your wet dreams come true"


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i think you mean " i hope your wet dreams come true"


I see you are using the same cpu block like i have,did you flip the block around so the top rad goes to the inlet then outlet to res....


----------



## szeged

yep


----------



## Im Batman

Hey,

Was planning out the addition of a GPU to my loop and had a couple of questions.

Currently I have a 360mm rad for the CPU only with load temps at 50 degrees or so maximum, would this 360 rad still enough to add the GPU?

Alternatively I can add a 120 in push/pull or I can add a 240 but with no fans. Just how ineffective is a rad without fans?

The only reason I would go with the 240 if it's not too ineffective is for the sake of not having to buy one when I eventually get a bigger case.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Was planning out the addition of a GPU to my loop and had a couple of questions.
> 
> Currently I have a 360mm rad for the CPU only with load temps at 50 degrees or so maximum, would this 360 rad still enough to add the GPU?
> 
> Alternatively I can add a 120 in push/pull or I can add a 240 but with no fans. Just how ineffective is a rad without fans?
> 
> The only reason I would go with the 240 if it's not too ineffective is for the sake of not having to buy one when I eventually get a bigger case.


A 360 rad will be plenty, but what pump do you have?


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A 360 rad will be plenty, but what pump do you have?


A sigular XSPC D5 Vario in a bay res.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=21256


----------



## ginger_nuts

Your all good.









Get that GPU under water.









P.s My sons love your avatar.


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Your all good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get that GPU under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.s My sons love your avatar.


Haha yeah it still makes me laugh









Glad I can go without the extra rad, would have been a pain to work around.

For the sake of argument though, with a second rad could the loop run pump/res > 240rad > GPU > CPU > 360rad > pump/res or vice versa to avoid back-tracking with your tubing?

Thanks ginger_nuts.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Sure you could, as you have a res/pump combo, loop order doesn't matter. The coolant will equalise in temp, and it doesn't effect performance one bit.The pump is more then capable of running everything. So aim to keep the tube runs short and neat.









But having a rad with no fans is not worth the trouble in your case. No performance increase.

If you were to add fans, the only benefit would be, that you could run slower speed fans, make it quiet.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> Haha yeah it still makes me laugh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad I can go without the extra rad, would have been a pain to work around.
> 
> For the sake of argument though, with a second rad could the loop run pump/res > 240rad > GPU > CPU > 360rad > pump/res or vice versa to avoid back-tracking with your tubing?
> 
> Thanks ginger_nuts.


Yeah lots of people have that sort of loop set up. As long as you have the res higher up and before the pump the loop order doesn't reeaaalllyyyy matter too much.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my Birthday!
> 
> So where are all the things?


Happy birthday, B-!
edit: I'm too poor to send you things, all my money goes to my builds








---
If I do my leak test without any fans on the rads, would this matter much? I do have a small fan on the pump (mcp35x). Oh and the system is separated from the mobo/gpu etc.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my Birthday!
> 
> So where are all the things?


Many happy returns, now eat cake and get back to work on the S3


----------



## DesktopDoctorNZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Charge the system with low pressure air, max is 5 to 7.5 psi, and wait overnight to see if it drops any.
> 
> I charge thru my drain lines with a gage in a fill/vent line and close off the drain valve to lock the air in the system.
> 
> Darlene


For one thing... Whats that tubing! I love the colour...


----------



## stickg1

Happy B-Day brosef!


----------



## Noviets

For making a case, is spypainting a better option to powder coating?
Would Mild Steel be a better option than Aluminium?

Just wondering about conductivity and the like. First time building a case. I know some guys like to use timber/acrylic etc, but do they experience grounding problems? Especially with airflow causing static?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys me again....Just wanted to know did you guys use just your hands when tighten the compression fittings or did you also use a tool like a spanner,also when first testing the loop for leaks how do i connect the pump do i just use a molex and thats it or is there anything else i'll need to connect....


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys me again....Just wanted to know did you guys use just your hands when tighten the compression fittings or did you also use a tool like a spanner,also when first testing the loop for leaks how do i connect the pump do i just use a molex and thats it or is there anything else i'll need to connect....


I always hand tighten compressions.

You would want to connect just your molex to your pump and then an adapter to your 24 PIN, otherwise the PSU wont come on. I forget which pins you need to jump, I always used the adapter that came with my Rasa kit.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> I always hand tighten compressions.
> 
> You would want to connect just your molex to your pump and then an adapter to your 24 PIN, otherwise the PSU wont come on. I forget which pins you need to jump, I always used the adapter that came with my Rasa kit.


Thanks yanks8981,i figured as much just wanted to make sure,i also bought a 24 pin adapter,remembered i need one at the last minute....


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thanks yanks8981,i figured as much just wanted to make sure,i also bought a 24 pin adapter,remembered i need one at the last minute....


This thing?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5141/psu-218/FrozenCPU_24-pin_Power_Supply_Jump_Start_Connector.html

You could do it without the adapter, I just never could remember which pins to jump.


----------



## derickwm

Wermad your board block is in prototype stage, check our Facebook







should be available to order soon hopefully.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just a word of caution, posts like these can often get lost in this thread, so it may be best to create a new thread and someone will be able to focus on it more there
> 
> A lot of people like EK blocks (myself included) for their performance and asthetics (they have employees that are also pretty active in this forum for support). XSPC make some decent blocks as well. Both are at decent price points as well, so that is another reason why you see them used a lot. Watercool/Heatkiller blocks are good as well.
> 
> Tubing size is a preference thing. A lot of newer builds are doing hard acrylic, though I'd stick to traditional tubing for a first build.
> 
> General rule of thumb for rads is as follows: Have at least 1 120mm rad space per block you have in your system, plus an additional 120mm rad space. So if you have 1 CPU and 1 GPU, you'd want at least 3 120mm rad spaces (for example this could be 1 360 or 1 240 + 1 120). Having more will only help. Too many and you hit diminishing returns though lol. Fans also play a big part into radiator performance. Those SP120s are good fans.
> 
> Pumps: Go DDC(small footprint and powerful) or D5(quiet and powerful). Most manufacturers carry these, but may name them differently. Example Swiftech DDC pump is called the MCP35X.
> 
> In terms of coloring coolant, you can use dyes or pre-colored coolants/nano fluids. Some people prefer colored tubes and tops, others prefer to color the coolant. I like the looks of colored coolant better. See Mayhems fluids for example (X1 for translucent or Pastel for opaque), they have the best dyes and fluids imo. You can post questions to their thread (see signature) in regards to getting any specific color you'd like.
> 
> Hope this helped. I'd again recommend starting a new thread under Water Cooling. Good luck!


Greatly appreciate it, opened a thread yesterday but so far haven't heard anything back, though I believe between you and the other, most of my questions concerning parts were answered. Wanted to ask you since I found a Microcenter near where I'm currently staying, if I could find most parts there or should I just order online?

Also piping etc, I believed I'd wanna go with transparent acrylic as that seems to look best when combined w/ colored cooling fluid. Looking @ the polished EK block for GPU's which looks nice. Can you recommend a similar one for the CPU? That or something aesthetically appealing?

Fittings you mentioned so I'll probably go with those, the tubing not so sure, guessing 3/8 or 1/2 ? I don't want to huge but big enough to move around and be able to curve a bit.

From my understanding you need @ least 120 per block so a 360 would cover 3? I'll be mainly building this with 2x titans in mind, and the 4960x.

Since I'm using the 540 as it gracefully displays clean builds in a sexy format, was hoping to clarify on the above. Was looking @ a 240/360 RAD for the top and a 360 for the front for intake. I see alot of people put Rads on the bottom but I doubt the airflow will be good enough and it blocks some of the look, so looking to stick a possible 120 on the PSU side. Given that setup would that be enough to keep my setup cool?

Are there any RAD's you'd highly recommend? I heard one brand (ice something) seemed to have a good rating.

Reservoir wise do they have ones with a draining function or is this something u need to setup on the side, I'd like to know the best practice for refilling, maintaining and cleaning if possible.

Price isn't an issue so anything of high quality would be most appreciated, this is my first WC build so def want to make sure I have the proper parts in order.

Once again appreciate everyone's input, I'm getting more and more excited to do this, and can't wait to return my h100i when I get back from my trip.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> This thing?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5141/psu-218/FrozenCPU_24-pin_Power_Supply_Jump_Start_Connector.html
> 
> You could do it without the adapter, I just never could remember which pins to jump.


There's one green logic wire, connect it to any black (ground) wire.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Also piping etc, I believed I'd wanna go with transparent acrylic as that seems to look best when combined w/ colored cooling fluid. Looking @ the polished EK block for GPU's which looks nice. Can you recommend a similar one for the CPU? That or something aesthetically appealing?


If you're looking to do the polishing yourself you might want this block, if you want the block to come clear stock (keeps warranty) you might want this block.


----------



## lowfat

I think the polished LTX looks better personally. Although you need need to give up a couple degrees of cooling power.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you're looking to do the polishing yourself you might want this block, if you want the block to come clear stock (keeps warranty) you might want this block.


yeah someone linked me earlier in the post, glad for that too, saves me time on sanding etc. Appreciated !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think the polished LTX looks better personally. Although you need need to give up a couple degrees of cooling power.


Is it due to the lack of metal?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Greatly appreciate it, opened a thread yesterday but so far haven't heard anything back, though I believe between you and the other, most of my questions concerning parts were answered. Wanted to ask you since I found a Microcenter near where I'm currently staying, if I could find most parts there or should I just order online?
> 
> Also piping etc, I believed I'd wanna go with transparent acrylic as that seems to look best when combined w/ colored cooling fluid. Looking @ the polished EK block for GPU's which looks nice. Can you recommend a similar one for the CPU? That or something aesthetically appealing?
> 
> Fittings you mentioned so I'll probably go with those, the tubing not so sure, guessing 3/8 or 1/2 ? I don't want to huge but big enough to move around and be able to curve a bit.
> 
> From my understanding you need @ least 120 per block so a 360 would cover 3? I'll be mainly building this with 2x titans in mind, and the 4960x.
> 
> Since I'm using the 540 as it gracefully displays clean builds in a sexy format, was hoping to clarify on the above. Was looking @ a 240/360 RAD for the top and a 360 for the front for intake. I see alot of people put Rads on the bottom but I doubt the airflow will be good enough and it blocks some of the look, so looking to stick a possible 120 on the PSU side. Given that setup would that be enough to keep my setup cool?
> 
> Are there any RAD's you'd highly recommend? I heard one brand (ice something) seemed to have a good rating.
> 
> Reservoir wise do they have ones with a draining function or is this something u need to setup on the side, I'd like to know the best practice for refilling, maintaining and cleaning if possible.
> 
> Price isn't an issue so anything of high quality would be most appreciated, this is my first WC build so def want to make sure I have the proper parts in order.
> 
> Once again appreciate everyone's input, I'm getting more and more excited to do this, and can't wait to return my h100i when I get back from my trip
> 
> 
> .


- What is the link for the other post?
- Buy online and not from Microcenter for wc stuff. They have limited supply and way overcharge for em.
- I'd get the EK clean block as opposed to the frosted and polishing it....unless you really want the circles.
- For a CPU and 2 GPU, you'd want at least 4 120mm radspace...more if you can
- 360 in front and 240or360 in top would be solid cooling...always run rads as intake
- Most cases are a little above the ground leaving a gap where air can come in from the bottom. The bottom mounts are usually fine unless your machine sits on carpet and sinks down
- The Alphacool UT60 are good, the Hardware Labs/BlackIce SR1 are good, many others are good as well. Partly depends on what fans/rpms you want to run and what form factor you need for the case
- I wouldn't recommend acrylic for a first time build, but if you want to, the main sizes are 10mm ID x 12mm OD and 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD. Depending on size, you will need appropriate bending tube and appropriate fittings. The Bitspower c47 are good for the 10mm ID x 12mm OD tube and the Primichill Ghost are good for the 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD tube. Look through B NEGATIVE's Acrylic guide on how to bend and what parts are available and people like and what not.
- Otherwise, get a tubing size you like and then get the compressions to match. I am a Bitspower fittings fan personally.
- You need to add a drain line, usually at the lowest point in your system. There are many ways to tackle this and it usually helps to see how everything fits in your system to determine the best way to add it.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> - What is the link for the other post?
> - Buy online and not from Microcenter for wc stuff. They have limited supply and way overcharge for em.
> - I'd get the EK clean block as opposed to the frosted and polishing it....unless you really want the circles.
> - For a CPU and 2 GPU, you'd want at least 4 120mm radspace...more if you can
> - 360 in front and 240or360 in top would be solid cooling...always run rads as intake
> - Most cases are a little above the ground leaving a gap where air can come in from the bottom. The bottom mounts are usually fine unless your machine sits on carpet and sinks down
> - The Alphacool UT60 are good, the Hardware Labs/BlackIce SR1 are good, many others are good as well. Partly depends on what fans/rpms you want to run and what form factor you need for the case
> - I wouldn't recommend acrylic for a first time build, but if you want to, the main sizes are 10mm ID x 12mm OD and 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD. Depending on size, you will need appropriate bending tube and appropriate fittings. The Bitspower c47 are good for the 10mm ID x 12mm OD tube and the Primichill Ghost are good for the 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD tube. Look through B NEGATIVE's Acrylic guide on how to bend and what parts are available and people like and what not.
> - Otherwise, get a tubing size you like and then get the compressions to match. I am a Bitspower fittings fan personally.
> - You need to add a drain line, usually at the lowest point in your system. There are many ways to tackle this and it usually helps to see how everything fits in your system to determine the best way to add it.


Nice, thanks and here's the thread link, 44 views so far http://www.overclock.net/t/1430826/new-to-water-cooling-looking-for-suggestions-for-air540-case

As for the concern on acrylic, is there anything wrong w/ it or would there be other types of tubing that would be best for transparency to see the fluid?
If by any chance you could toss me a partslist I'd greatly appreciate it. I've heard good things about BlackIce. Though since you're saying 360 front and 240/360 top would be fine I take it the additional 120 wouldn't be needed (would save me space on other things if so ) And you're recommending BOTH top and front to be intake? If so any reason for the top to be intake or ? Since I'd assume that hot air going out the back would likely be picked up by the top and repulled back in vs clean fresh air no?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Nice, thanks and here's the thread link, 44 views so far http://www.overclock.net/t/1430826/new-to-water-cooling-looking-for-suggestions-for-air540-case
> 
> As for the concern on acrylic, is there anything wrong w/ it or would there be other types of tubing that would be best for transparency to see the fluid?
> If by any chance you could toss me a partslist I'd greatly appreciate it. I've heard good things about BlackIce. Though since you're saying 360 front and 240/360 top would be fine I take it the additional 120 wouldn't be needed (would save me space on other things if so ) And you're recommending BOTH top and front to be intake? If so any reason for the top to be intake or ? Since I'd assume that hot air going out the back would likely be picked up by the top and repulled back in vs clean fresh air no?


Acrylic isnt as easy to work with or you need a ton of adaptor fittings. A lot more flexibility with standard tube.

I'd do 2 360 rads if you can. But a 360 and a 240 should work too.

You are on the right track with the rads being on intake. The air inside of the case is always case is at best equal temperature to the air outside but other than startup after being powered off for a long time, it is always hotter. The rads can't cool the fluid lower than the air that is being forced through it without refrigeration. This means using air from inside your case can and probably will increase your temps.


----------



## Egami

Is there anyone / any builds that have used the Bp Crystal Elbow Blocks? Thinking of possibly using some so would appreciate any user experiences peeps may have had with these.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I so need this for my build... I didn't see them on P-PCs, but I hope they show up soon.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys me again....Just wanted to know did you guys use just your hands when tighten the compression fittings or did you also use a tool like a spanner,also when first testing the loop for leaks how do i connect the pump do i just use a molex and thats it or is there anything else i'll need to connect....


I usually grab a piece of foam that usually comes inside waterblock packaging and use that to get a better grip for hand tightening.


----------



## szeged

rubber coated pliers work for me


----------



## zmegati

Is anyone working with this:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2-pcs.html

Do it pays to take and work with these tubes or not?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-nickel.html

There are also of course and fittings...Slovenia near me and my little shipping...PrimoChill tubes and fitings cost me 80$ shiping


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> For making a case, is spypainting a better option to powder coating?
> Would Mild Steel be a better option than Aluminium?
> 
> Just wondering about conductivity and the like. First time building a case. I know some guys like to use timber/acrylic etc, but do they experience grounding problems? Especially with airflow causing static?


Depend on how much money you have.

I'd say steel is easier to work with in some cases and the cheapest so yes I'd recommend it as the first choice but it depends on the case and design. I had mine CNC machined from acetal sheet, however the original design was out of sheet steel and half the price. Depends on what you're going for.

Grounding isn't an issue.

Check my thread about it, should give you some insight maybe some ideas: http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-build-log-custom-solidworks-designed-cnc-machined-acetal-case-gtx-titans-ek-watercooling/110#post_20917714


----------



## Servos

Small upgrade to the 4930k. While I was added decided to put on a full board block and add the gpu to the loop.

The pastel red came out very... pink. However mayhem was nice enough to send some red dye that should arrive in a week or two.






shout-out to sakerfalcon for his template and idea.


----------



## derickwm

Upload your images as images not attachments


----------



## Servos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Upload your images as images not attachments


Thanks , I noticed that right after I did it.


----------



## derickwm

Wow nicely done! 4U chassis? What material is that black bit made out of that you have covering the "unsused" parts of the motherboard?


----------



## Servos

Yea, stuck it in a 4u so I could see it top down.

Painted acrylic. sakerfalcon cut his out via dremel... Too much work for me lol. I just made a vector image and had a local shop laser cut it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys me again....Just wanted to know did you guys use just your hands when tighten the compression fittings or did you also use a tool like a spanner,also when first testing the loop for leaks how do i connect the pump do i just use a molex and thats it or is there anything else i'll need to connect....


The methods people have already said work. Also, if you don't have rubber coated pliers, covering the compression with a towel and tightening with a wrench/pliers works too. Just be careful. Generally, hand tighten til you see blood, then wipe the blood with a towel and use it the rest of the way =P

Just kiddin, tightening a ton of compressions by hand can be a PITA though, so the towel method or anything that will keep the wrench/pliers from scraping off the paint works well.

When I'm testing for leaks, I have a AC->DC Power Brick that has a wall plug on one end and a 4-pin molex on the other end. If you're pump has PWM, you can use a ModMyToys Power PCB like i have that has a Molex input and a bunch of other outputs so you can use a fan controller or PWM controller to change the pump speeds. Or you can just plug the pump straight into the Molex and let it run at full speed since you're testing for leaks anyway. That way i can do my leak tests away from PC. Most people just jump their PSU though....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Servos*
> 
> Small upgrade to the 4930k. While I was added decided to put on a full board block and add the gpu to the loop.
> 
> The pastel red came out very... pink. However mayhem was nice enough to send some red dye that should arrive in a week or two.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: SPOILER!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shout-out to sakerfalcon for his template and idea.


I agree with derickwm. Amazing work!!!


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Servos*
> 
> Small upgrade to the 4930k. While I was added decided to put on a full board block and add the gpu to the loop.
> 
> The pastel red came out very... pink. However mayhem was nice enough to send some red dye that should arrive in a week or two.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shout-out to sakerfalcon for his template and idea.


what motherboard is that? or its just a cover you made with acrylic?


----------



## dumbazz

Awsome


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

O.K guys just finished my loop,just need a little help before i start up the pc,there is a fan like connection on the pump,do i plug that into the motherboard cpu fan header....? Also the pump has 5 different settings at the bottom,which is the best to leave it on....


----------



## kpoeticg

What pump is it? Sounds like a D5 Vario?

If it's not a PWM pump or an Aquacomputer D5, the fan header is just for RPM feedback. You'd connect that to your mobo fan header or any fan controller that you would want to see how fast you're pump's going.

You generally want around a 1.5 GPM flowrate, so the speed setting on your pump depends how much restriction is in your loop. I don't have a D5 so I can't help you much besides that.


----------



## Servos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> what motherboard is that? or its just a cover you made with acrylic?


Its an asus rive, but its is an acrylic cover.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....


----------



## szeged

It turned out great, I love it.


----------



## Chomuco

rig 8pack wc !!


----------



## szeged

did he shave his face with a lawnmower?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> It turned out great, I love it.


Thanks man,like i said i have all you guys to thank for aiding me in doing my first custom build....


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> rig 8pack wc !!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love this case... someday... (sniff)









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tight!!


----------



## Striker36

I got a box in the mail today









the first parts on my second adventure into water cooling!


now my only problem is that I have no idea what sort of fans work well with EX type radiators... I seem to remember seeing somewhere that high static pressure fans seem to work well with them. does that make since? it does in my head given the double fin nature of them causing lots of restriction......


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice solid build without going extreme over-the-top!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Love this case... someday... (sniff)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tight!!


Thx man.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice solid build without going extreme over-the-top!


Thx i wanted something nice and subtle and i think i achieved it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> I got a box in the mail today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now my only problem is that I have no idea what sort of fans work well with EX type radiators... I seem to remember seeing somewhere that high static pressure fans seem to work well with them. does that make since? it does in my head given the double fin nature of them causing lots of restriction......


No matter what type of rad you have, you want to have high static pressure fans. If your rad has a high fin density, you need "faster" fans. If your rad has a lower fin density you can get away with running your fans slower. But no matter what you want your fans to have high static pressure. If it's a 120 rad (120, 240, 360) Gentle Typhoons are considered the best by most people. Noctua NF-F12's, Corsair SP120's, and NB E-Loop's are also good static pressure optimized fans


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice solid build without going extreme over-the-top!


Agreed - I love simple slick loops just as much as forged gold tubing with diamond plated compression fittings filled with mercury and moon rock and Mayhem UV rainbow dye.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Agreed - I love simple slick loops just as much as forged gold tubing with diamond plated compression fittings filled with mercury and moon rock and Mayhem UV rainbow dye.


LOL You're too hilarious!!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Agreed - I love simple slick loops just as much as forged gold tubing with diamond plated compression fittings filled with mercury and moon rock and Mayhem UV rainbow dye.


This had me laughing hard when i read it....


----------



## DevilGear44

I said it mostly because I'm very much jealous of the people that know how to forge gold tubing, have enough money to buy moon rocks, and figured out how to obtain that much mercury without a license. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the taste out of my mouth.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....


Turned out pretty good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> rig 8pack wc !!


That guy just makes me laugh.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> rig 8pack wc !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That guy just makes me laugh.
Click to expand...

Why?


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Why?


Because he looks ridiculous.


----------



## szeged

im tellin ya, he shaves with a lawnmower


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im tellin ya, he shaves with a lawnmower


Haha hilarious


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....


Nice and clean









If I was going to add something, it would be a second pair of fans on the lower rad. . . . . . and maybe go to a taller res tube.

As something to watch for and be thinking about;

I could not tell for sure from the pic, but you want to make very sure that you have the tube that goes down inside the res screwed in under the top fitting from the CPU block, and that you keep the coolant level well above the outlet of that tube.

The reason is that gravity is working against you. . . .

The line from the top rad to the CPU block, and the tube from the CPU block to the res, are going to want to drain down into the res and you'll be left with air pockets in your tubing and CPU block at every start up.

The internal tube in the res is what prevents that as long as there's little air space and the tube outlets below the coolant level, . . . . . a taller res would be a bit more fail safe.

Darlene


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nice and clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was going to add something, it would be a second pair of fans on the lower rad. . . . . . and maybe go to a taller res tube.
> 
> As something to watch for and be thinking about;
> 
> I could not tell for sure from the pic, but you want to make very sure that you have the tube that goes down inside the res screwed in under the top fitting from the CPU block, and that you keep the coolant level well above the outlet of that tube.
> 
> The reason is that gravity is working against you. . . .
> 
> The line from the top rad to the CPU block, and the tube from the CPU block to the res, are going to want to drain down into the res and you'll be left with air pockets in your tubing and CPU block at every start up.
> 
> The internal tube in the res is what prevents that as long as there's little air space and the tube outlets below the coolant level, . . . . . a taller res would be a bit more fail safe.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the adivice,still new to this so whatever help i can get i'm grateful,also i had planned on getting a bigger res but the 250mm just seemed too huge and the 150 that i wanted just wasnt available at the shops here,so i just went with the 80 for now until the 150 comes back in stock,also will be adding 2 more fans to the bottom rad like you mentioned just need a fan controller thats better than what i've got now....Thx again for your time and advice....


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thanks for the adivice,still new to this so whatever help i can get i'm grateful,also i had planned on getting a bigger res but the 250mm just seemed too huge and the 150 that i wanted just wasnt available at the shops here,so i just went with the 80 for now until the 150 comes back in stock,also will be adding 2 more fans to the bottom rad like you mentioned just need a fan controller thats better than what i've got now....Thx again for your time and advice....


Also the bottom RAD to PUMP tubing looks a bit kinked from this angle, is it?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Also the bottom RAD to PUMP tubing looks a bit kinked from this angle, is it?


It's just the turn i made,no kinks thought i had an extra fitting then realized i didn't so just used what i had to make the turn,but kink free so i'm happy....


----------



## ledzepp3

I had the exact same kind of tubing run from my pump to my old 7970 block, he's fine









-Zepp


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> I got a box in the mail today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the first parts on my second adventure into water cooling!
> 
> 
> now my only problem is that I have no idea what sort of fans work well with EX type radiators... I seem to remember seeing somewhere that high static pressure fans seem to work well with them. does that make since? it does in my head given the double fin nature of them causing lots of restriction......


THAT URS!?


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was going to add something, it would be a second pair of fans on the lower rad. . . . . . and maybe go to a taller res tube.
> 
> As something to watch for and be thinking about;
> 
> I could not tell for sure from the pic, but you want to make very sure that you have the tube that goes down inside the res screwed in under the top fitting from the CPU block, and that you keep the coolant level well above the outlet of that tube.
> 
> The reason is that gravity is working against you. . . .
> 
> The line from the top rad to the CPU block, and the tube from the CPU block to the res, are going to want to drain down into the res and you'll be left with air pockets in your tubing and CPU block at every start up.
> 
> The internal tube in the res is what prevents that as long as there's little air space and the tube outlets below the coolant level, . . . . . a taller res would be a bit more fail safe.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Or make an "anti bubble tube" or whatever they are called in the res. I had one of those pump red combo and in the lid the thread should go all the way through and you can screw a fitting on the inside of the rest. Put a bard or a compression or what ever you have there and stick a short piece of tubing on it so it sticks bellow the top line of the water. This way you wount cause unneed turbulence and splashing in your loop. It will stop bubble and make it quieter.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Or make an "anti bubble tube" or whatever they are called in the res. I had one of those pump red combo and in the lid the thread should go all the way through and you can screw a fitting on the inside of the rest. Put a bard or a compression or what ever you have there and stick a short piece of tubing on it so it sticks bellow the top line of the water. This way you wount cause unneed turbulence and splashing in your loop. It will stop bubble and make it quieter.


That's exactly what I was hoping to achieve! I've been trying to find out if it were possible. I see that EK reservoirs have this capability, but I'm probably going to go with a Koolance res/pump combo. Glad to finally hear that somebody has done this.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> No matter what type of rad you have, you want to have high static pressure fans. If your rad has a high fin density, you need "faster" fans. If your rad has a lower fin density you can get away with running your fans slower. But no matter what you want your fans to have high static pressure. If it's a 120 rad (120, 240, 360) Gentle Typhoons are considered the best by most people. Noctua NF-F12's, Corsair SP120's, and NB E-Loop's are also good static pressure optimized fans


Thanks for the clarification.kinda been out of the game for a while and couldn't remember exactly what I need...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> THAT URS!?


Haha. No. Im just an airplane mechanic and the box showed up right as I was leaving for work. As private jets go that one is honestly pretty crappy...


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> I got a box in the mail today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the first parts on my second adventure into water cooling!
> 
> 
> now my only problem is that I have no idea what sort of fans work well with EX type radiators... I seem to remember seeing somewhere that high static pressure fans seem to work well with them. does that make since? it does in my head given the double fin nature of them causing lots of restriction......


i think you are going to need more rad to cool the jet plane. just saying.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> i think you are going to need more rad to cool the jet plane. just saying.


haha. actually the oil coolers on that particular Citation are only a little bit bigger than those two radiators together. you can fit one in a big shoe box. and their are only 2 or 3 for each engine (depending on what engine they are using)


----------



## bomberjun

First attempt in acrylic bending. Thanks to bnegative again for the tutorial vids.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> First attempt in acrylic bending. Thanks to bnegative again for the tutorial vids.


other than the photo effect........

looking good


----------



## Ashuiegi

this is my first custom loop:
the rest of the piscture are on this thread :http://www.overclock.net/t/1426981/here-is-my-first-custom-watercooling-loop/0_20#post_20908565


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> First attempt in acrylic bending. Thanks to bnegative again for the tutorial vids.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you use the silicon bending insert? What method did you use?


----------



## Gadgety

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Nickel plated by me at home :


Impressive. Did you do several dips, and polish in between each? Care to share some details?


----------



## Pimphare

What he said ^


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification.kinda been out of the game for a while and couldn't remember exactly what I need...
> Haha. No. Im just an airplane mechanic and the box showed up right as I was leaving for work. As private jets go that one is honestly pretty crappy...


i like Bombardier


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> *other than the photo effect........*
> 
> looking good


This... if you haven't noticed, none of us here like effects on photo's. We want the *raw* goodness so we can see it better. Especially dooods like me so I can learn something!









Pretty tight runs there... yikes... I'd wimp out down there and use standard tubing!


----------



## bomberjun

Forgive the instagram effect. I have no camera rather than my phone. Still busy redoing some acrylic bending.



Yes I used the silicon + heat gun method.

My technique is not to remove the silicon even after the heat desipated on the bended acrylic. The reason is that, I still can reheat the tubing and make some minor adjustments.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Forgive the instagram effect. I have no camera rather than my phone. Still busy redoing some acrylic bending.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I used the silicon + heat gun method.
> 
> My technique is not to remove the silicon even after the heat desipated on the bended acrylic. The reason is that, I still can reheat the tubing and make some minor adjustments.


I hear it can be quite difficult do work with. I suspect as much being the first time using it. I'm going with standard tubing for my first water cooled solution. I may try some acrylic later on. It looks awesome!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Or make an "anti bubble tube" or whatever they are called in the res. I had one of those pump red combo and in the lid the thread should go all the way through and you can screw a fitting on the inside of the rest. Put a bard or a compression or what ever you have there and stick a short piece of tubing on it so it sticks bellow the top line of the water. This way you wount cause unneed turbulence and splashing in your loop. It will stop bubble and make it quieter.
> 
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I was hoping to achieve! I've been trying to find out if it were possible. I see that EK reservoirs have this capability, but I'm probably going to go with a Koolance res/pump combo. Glad to finally hear that somebody has done this.
Click to expand...

Bitspower also do it.


----------



## Kimir

Last time I posted pictures of my rig, it was said I should have gone with white tubing instead of black, so I did.
(it's been more than 2 weeks I put it all in, but I was hesitating in posting since last time I posted a pic on fractal design case club, it ended up badly. But hey, why do I care anyway) .


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....


Looks great!

I only hope my build will look as nice!
I'll probably be making a build log soon, still waiting on parts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> I said it mostly because I'm very much jealous of the people that know how to forge gold tubing, have enough money to buy moon rocks, and figured out how to obtain that much mercury without a license. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the taste out of my mouth.


Link? lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Last time I posted pictures of my rig, it was said I should have gone with white tubing instead of black, so I did.
> (it's been more than 2 weeks I put it all in, but I was hesitating in posting since last time I posted a pic on fractal design case club, it ended up badly. But hey, why do I care anyway) .


I think it looks pretty good. What did they have an issue with?


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> This... if you haven't noticed, none of us here like effects on photo's. We want the *raw* goodness so we can see it better. Especially dooods like me so I can learn something!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty tight runs there... yikes... I'd wimp out down there and use standard tubing!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I hear it can be quite difficult do work with. I suspect as much being the first time using it. I'm going with standard tubing for my first water cooled solution. I may try some acrylic later on. It looks awesome!


I agree that standard tubing is the easiest way to route with this kind of space. I actually tried it at first, it I did not find it challenging, then I ran out of compression fittings(a good sign), so I pulled them off and started bending acrylics when I saw I have a ton of tubing adapters.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower also do it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This!!

I *LOOOOVVVEEE* the quality and look of the Bitspower res. EK is most certainly nice stuff, but Bitspower takes me back a little to the days when I WISHED there were things like this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> I agree that standard tubing is the easiest way to route with this kind of space. I actually tried it at first, it I did not find it challenging, then I ran out of compression fittings(a good sign), so I pulled them off and started bending acrylics when I saw I have a ton of tubing adapters.


Very cool! Forced to be more AWESOME!!


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> I got a box in the mail today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the first parts on my second adventure into water cooling!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now my only problem is that I have no idea what sort of fans work well with EX type radiators... I seem to remember seeing somewhere that high static pressure fans seem to work well with them. does that make since? it does in my head given the double fin nature of them causing lots of restriction......


I see two perfect candidates for fans attached to that big, white aluminum tub back there









Lovely jet that one, awesome photo.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Just received my new monsoon D5 basic res!


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Turned out pretty good.
> That guy just makes me laugh.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Because he looks ridiculous.


thats kinda mean. could be someone in this thread..


----------



## DesktopDoctorNZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's exactly what I was hoping to achieve! I've been trying to find out if it were possible. I see that EK reservoirs have this capability, but I'm probably going to go with a Koolance res/pump combo. Glad to finally hear that somebody has done this.


The bitspower z multi's come with this tube already installed. And they have a variety of different colours as well. Oooo


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> this is my first custom loop:
> the rest of the piscture are on this thread :http://www.overclock.net/t/1426981/here-is-my-first-custom-watercooling-loop/0_20#post_20908565
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice,how are you liking your temps since going custom water....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> I only hope my build will look as nice!
> I'll probably be making a build log soon, still waiting on parts.
> Link? lol


Thanks mate,i have no doubt your build will look even better....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think it looks pretty good. What did they have an issue with?


The white tubing looks awesome,matches the case well....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DesktopDoctorNZ*
> 
> The bitspower z multi's come with this tube already installed. And they have a variety of different colours as well. Oooo


^^^^^ This my res does come with the tube on the inside....


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think it looks pretty good. What did they have an issue with?


Cable management on the back since I was showing how my ssds are mounted on plate and not directly on the case. And I don't remember when/how/why it ended up blaming me for using 120mm fan and a 240 rad on top instead of 140mm fan and a 280 rad... I let it go since the one that started it seems to have absolutely no idea that I can't even put a finger between the fan and ram lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

The good thing about the Bitspower and EK res's is also, if you get a res and realize it's too small or large, you can buy the larger tube as an accessory for like 10 bux. FrozenCPU and Performance-PCs pretty much carries all the extra size tubes you can buy if you wanna go bigger and not buy a new res


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Last time I posted pictures of my rig, it was said I should have gone with white tubing instead of black, so I did.
> (it's been more than 2 weeks I put it all in, but I was hesitating in posting since last time I posted a pic on fractal design case club, it ended up badly. But hey, why do I care anyway) .


----------



## Pimphare

Looks good to me! Nice n' tidy. No unused space and not over crowded.


----------



## Jacoblab

Does anyone know what length of SLI fitting I would need with two 780s (or 290x) on the asus rampage iv extreme black edition?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34772
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=34773


----------



## Beaker076

What are peoples thoughts on the new XSPC Photon reservoirs and the new D5 Photon series??
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=39186

&

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_665&products_id=38689


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Turned out pretty good.
> That guy just makes me laugh.


yyou guys suck come on he's a fellow water cooling enthusiast get over ourselves gezzzz


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beaker076*
> 
> What are peoples thoughts on the new XSPC Photon reservoirs and the new D5 Photon series??
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=39186
> 
> &
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_665&products_id=38689


I have a photon 170. Build quality's amazing. Solid glass. No acrylic. And it has a solid bracket made of steel. Unfortunately the D5 series was released after i bought my Photon 170 and Apogee Drive II. I'm sure they'll release the end cap/pump top as an accessory though in case i wanna sell my Apogee and get a sexier block
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> yyou guys suck come on he's a fellow water cooling enthusiast get over ourselves gezzzz


Him being a water cooling enthusiast doesn't make it any less funny LOL


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Back again with more questions, first what settings should i leave/keep my pump on,it came on 2 so i left it there,will i see an improvement in temps if i bump it up,secondly whats a good programme if any that i can use to monitor said pump. This is the pump in question http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=21315&zenid=74aa6a476bc088abc363d7dfc2c0afdc


----------



## GenoOCAU

My build, now featuring a hell of a lot more ghetto! Slightly different setup to my LD V10 professionalism









2x 360 rads, 4 different types of fans on them, free-floating D5 vario. Mandatory out-of-case cable monster. hahahah

Looks like crap, but cools amazingly with the aircon blowing straight over the rads.



My old LD setup.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Turned out pretty good.
> That guy just makes me laugh.
> 
> 
> 
> yyou guys suck come on he's a fellow water cooling enthusiast get over ourselves gezzzz
Click to expand...

Beast mode overclocker as well


----------



## Beaker076

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I have a photon 170. Build quality's amazing. Solid glass. No acrylic. And it has a solid bracket made of steel. Unfortunately the D5 series was released after i bought my Photon 170 and Apogee Drive II. I'm sure they'll release the end cap/pump top as an accessory though in case i wanna sell my Apogee and get a sexier block
> Him being a water cooling enthusiast doesn't make it any less funny LOL


Thanks for the info.

I e-mailed XSPC support to ask if they sell the D5 Photon end caps separately or without the Pump as part of the res kit.

Excellent response time from the XSPC support staff member, however they advised they don't do the end caps separately or without the pump.

I'm looking at putting the D5 Photon 170 or another D5 cylinder res combo in my 350D. I'll have plenty of space as i'm planning on having and external RAD setup.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Back again with more questions, first what settings should i leave/keep my pump on,it came on 2 so i left it there,will i see an improvement in temps if i bump it up,secondly whats a good programme if any that i can use to monitor said pump. This is the pump in question http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=21315&zenid=74aa6a476bc088abc363d7dfc2c0afdc


Well like i said b4 the setting isn't really as relevant as the flowrate your getting. You want a flowrate of around 1.5 GPM. That's why people buy flowrate sensors. After 1.5 GPM there's not really any performance benefits to increasing your pumps speed, but you gotta find out the flowrate first. So the answer could be yes or no. Speedfan is a popular program for monitoring pumps and fans. There's some good fan controllers for that too. Especially the Aquaero
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beaker076*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> I e-mailed XSPC support to ask if they sell the D5 Photon end caps separately or without the Pump as part of the res kit.
> 
> Excellent response time from the XSPC support staff member, however they advised they don't do the end caps separately or without the pump.
> 
> I'm looking at putting the D5 Photon 170 or another D5 cylinder res combo in my 350D. I'll have plenty of space as i'm planning on having and external RAD setup.


Did they say if they do it seperately WITH the pump? That kinda sucks. I just figured cuz it was a new res they didn't add the extra's as accessories yet. Being able to throw an AC D5 with Aquabus in the side of my Photon would be great.


----------



## Beaker076

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Did they say if they do it seperately WITH the pump? That kinda sucks. I just figured cuz it was a new res they didn't add the extra's as accessories yet. Being able to throw an AC D5 with Aquabus in the side of my Photon would be great.


Who knows what they may do in the future regarding end caps for the Photon series. I had seen a Youtube review on the Photon res and it mentioned that its not advised to remove the end caps and also that each res is pressure tested etc.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, they just screw on and off. As long as your careful it shouldn't be an issue. They probly warn against it cuz of all the o-rings. Also you gotta be careful with the glass tube in the middle but it's nothing crazy. Just pay attention to where the o-rings are when you take the cap off.


----------



## DevilGear44

After being out of the scene for 2 years, this was my only thought as I dove back in and started viewing users' newer loops...



Will post pictures of my build once the last few parts come in (planning to delid and use the EK precisemount; can't wait for temps.)


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Cable management on the back since I was showing how my ssds are mounted on plate and not directly on the case. And I don't remember when/how/why it ended up blaming me for using 120mm fan and a 240 rad on top instead of 140mm fan and a 280 rad... I let it go since the one that started it seems to have absolutely no idea that I can't even put a finger between the fan and ram lol.


I remember that and tried to get in on that discussion a little but those guys were pretty much idiots and I wouldnt worry too much about them. Looks good by the way!


----------



## Ashuiegi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Nice,how are you liking your temps since going custom water....


its definitely better then AIO , specially on the gpu but now i m stuck at 1411mhz on my gtx 670 and no matter the voltage it wont go further,...
had trouble with my temp sensor that didn't work with any cable extension , they gave no signal even with 1x20 cm extension.
i m suprised by the temp of the water , which is only 2 degres higher then ambient and the air from the rad are only 1 degre higher then ambient.


----------



## gow3

A few pictures of my new setup.

Change Log:
1. Pipes replaced.
2. Angled fittings used to give a cleaner look.
3. Darker liquid replaces the brighter red.

*Old setup:*



*New and improved setup:*


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Back again with more questions, first what settings should i leave/keep my pump on,it came on 2 so i left it there,will i see an improvement in temps if i bump it up,secondly whats a good programme if any that i can use to monitor said pump. This is the pump in question http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=21315&zenid=74aa6a476bc088abc363d7dfc2c0afdc


Be careful there . . . . .

That isn't usually set on 2, . . . . . you're looking at the tail end of the arrow on the adjuster, not the head, . . . . it's usually set on 5.

You would not be the first guy to break it trying to turn it clockwise.

Turn it back to 3 to start and see how your temps are, once you get a good baseline on the temps, turn it to 4 and see if they improved, if so, then try it at 5.

You're looking for the point when faster and noisier stops translating to demonstrably better temps, so you can then set it for best temps versus noise.

Your loop isn't all that large or restrictive, so you should end up fine in the 3 to 4 range.

Darlene


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> After being out of the scene for 2 years, this was my only thought as I dove back in and started viewing users' newer loops...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post pictures of my build once the last few parts come in (planning to delid and use the EK precisemount; can't wait for temps.)


I'm in the SAME EXACT place. that being said... I like it.... I like it alot im even thinking about running rigid acrylic tubes in my new build.

now. I have a question for all you lovely water cooling people. what do you guys think of the Lamptron FV5v3 fan controllers? I really like the look of them and Im seriously considering putting one in my new case but I have no idea if they are quality or not. I remember a couple years ago they (Lamptron) had a decent reputation but I know a lot can change in a short time in the world of higher end computers

this one: http://www.lamptron.com/product/controllers/fc5-v3/


----------



## Giancarlo124

This is my new setup:

This is my old setup:


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> A few pictures of my new setup.
> 
> Change Log:
> 1. Pipes replaced.
> 2. Angled fittings used to give a cleaner look.
> 3. Darker liquid replaces the brighter red.
> 
> *Old setup:*
> 
> *New and improved setup:*


Whats that fan on top of the card doing there?

You need to add water to that graphics, make it more awesome









love the sleeving


----------



## gow3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Whats that fan on top of the card doing there?
> 
> You need to add water to that graphics, make it more awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love the sleeving


I had a couple of extra fans. I was benching so needed better air circulation









Originally the plan was to watercool them. I'll be upgrading soon, so collecting cash for watercooling newer cards









Thanks, sleeving looks even better in real life!


----------



## koniu777

what's up everyone, after going through what seems like 100 cases lol I'm back to my Stryker and this is what the setup looks like now, planning on doing primochill rigid tubing in a week or two


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be careful there . . . . .
> 
> That isn't usually set on 2, . . . . . you're looking at the tail end of the arrow on the adjuster, not the head, . . . . it's usually set on 5.
> 
> You would not be the first guy to break it trying to turn it clockwise.
> 
> Turn it back to 3 to start and see how your temps are, once you get a good baseline on the temps, turn it to 4 and see if they improved, if so, then try it at 5.
> 
> You're looking for the point when faster and noisier stops translating to demonstrably better temps, so you can then set it for best temps versus noise.
> 
> Your loop isn't all that large or restrictive, so you should end up fine in the 3 to 4 range.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for that good thing i didn't touch it,wanted to make sure first,will have to redo the tim on gpu 2 tomorrow because its 8c hotter than card 1 when gaming,do you think its tim related or could it be an air bubble....?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thanks for that good thing i didn't touch it,wanted to make sure first,will have to redo the tim on gpu 2 tomorrow because its 8c hotter than card 1 when gaming,do you think its tim related or could it be an air bubble....?


When you have 2 GPUs one will usually be hotter than the other depending if you cool in series or in parallel you can see higher difference. Mine are parallel and have a difference of 4C.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> When you have 2 GPUs one will usually be hotter than the other depending if you cool in series or in parallel you can see higher difference. Mine are parallel and have a difference of 4C.


Yeah i know in sli one card (the top card) is generally higher than the bottom card,but since going water cooling my bottom card is hotter than my top card....idle top card-25c~~bottom 28c....load top card 38c~~bottom card 47,so i know something is wrong just want to figured it out....I have never seen an instance when the bottom card temp is higher than the top card....


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Yeah i know in sli one card (the top card) is generally higher than the bottom card,but since going water cooling my bottom card is hotter than my top card....idle top card-25c~~bottom 28c....load top card 38c~~bottom card 47,so i know something is wrong just want to figured it out....I have never seen an instance when the bottom card temp is higher than the top card....


How long did you run them for at times things will have a lot of variance until they settle. Now to keep in mind since you have your cards in a series your hot coolant from the top card will flow to the bottom card and won't be as effective at transferring heat. I notice when I game coolant temps sky rocket and my cards settle at between 39-44 depending on the game. Still it might be worth checking the mounting on the GPU block but if you are not seeing outrageous temps I wouldn't worry too much about it.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> After weeks of bothering you guys about bits and pieces do's and don'ts i have finally finished my build....Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who assisted me when i needed it....


Nice work!







What is your temp when CPU fully loaded (Prime95 or IBT) and/or when gaming? Fans RPM?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Yeah i know in sli one card (the top card) is generally higher than the bottom card,but since going water cooling my bottom card is hotter than my top card....idle top card-25c~~bottom 28c....load top card 38c~~bottom card 47,so i know something is wrong just want to figured it out....I have never seen an instance when the bottom card temp is higher than the top card....


If you have that difference at idle, check for bubbles first if none are found then re apply TIM.

At idle there should be minimal difference. Mind you, you never know how reliable the temp sensors are on the GPUs.

Oh and a big







on your build.


----------



## grifftech

Hopefully it's OK to ask questions in here. I am going to be doing my first WC rig and getting everything sorted is quite a task









Anyone know of or use a Z87 mobo that has more than 1 PWM fan header besides the CPU_FAN. I will be controlling my Swiftech PWM pump with the CPU_FAN and would love to be able to have my fans throttle in sync with the pump depending on CPU load.

Are there any good PWM LED radiator fans out there?

I will stop there, don't want to do a brain dump in one post.

Thanks,
Chris


----------



## Lourad

Watercooled.png 8151k .png file


This is my first attempt at watercooling.


----------



## lowfat

With my Z87X-UD5H I have 5. Withe the Gigabyte software I can control the speed of everyone of them even if they aren't PWM fans.


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Hopefully it's OK to ask questions in here. I am going to be doing my first WC rig and getting everything sorted is quite a task
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know of or use a Z87 mobo that has more than 1 PWM fan header besides the CPU_FAN. I will be controlling my Swiftech PWM pump with the CPU_FAN and would love to be able to have my fans throttle in sync with the pump depending on CPU load.
> 
> Are there any good PWM LED radiator fans out there?
> 
> I will stop there, don't want to do a brain dump in one post.
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris


I have the Asus Z87 Sabertooth , it has plenty of 4pin headers. 2 for the CPU, and I think 3 others.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> With my Z87X-UD5H I have 5. Withe the Gigabyte software I can control the speed of everyone of them even if they aren't PWM fans.


Is that manually or can you set it up to throttle them the same as the CPU_FAN header?


----------



## kpoeticg

Get an Aquaero 6. Should only be a cpl more weeks til release =)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Is that manually or can you set it up to throttle them the same as the CPU_FAN header?


It can do it automatically if you can setup your own fan curves.
http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> I have the Asus Z87 Sabertooth , it has plenty of 4pin headers. 2 for the CPU, and I think 3 others.


Yeah I was just looking at the manual for the Sabertooth, and the 2 CPU ones are PWM but the other 4 pin ones are not, I believe those work via straight voltage control from those headers, not via a PWM signal like the CPU ones.


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, I Do like the look of that setup though.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Get an Aquaero 6. Should only be a cpl more weeks til release =)


Maybe so.. one expensive fan controller


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah it's expensive. But the 6 has full PWM control. And as far as level of automatic control, nothing really compares.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Hopefully it's OK to ask questions in here. I am going to be doing my first WC rig and getting everything sorted is quite a task
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know of or use a Z87 mobo that has more than 1 PWM fan header besides the CPU_FAN. I will be controlling my Swiftech PWM pump with the CPU_FAN and would love to be able to have my fans throttle in sync with the pump depending on CPU load.
> 
> Are there any good PWM LED radiator fans out there?
> 
> I will stop there, don't want to do a brain dump in one post.
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> With my Z87X-UD5H I have 5. Withe the Gigabyte software I can control the speed of everyone of them even if they aren't PWM fans.


While you may be able to control the speed of fans connected to the sysfan and cpu-opt headers, they are clearly not PWM headers in the same way that we refer to a CPU fan header as PWM, meaning for a designated 4 pin fan, with the 4th pin being a 5V duty cycle modulated control signal.

Pages 26 & 27 of the manual clearly show that the 4th pin is a fixed 5V pin, (VCC)

The normal +12V second pin is used for speed control, either by controlling voltage, or pulse width modulating the 12V supply.

If you were to connect a 4 wire PWM fan to one of these headers, it would appear to work, but only because the VCC pin would be telling the fan to run at full speed, while the power delivery from the 2nd pin would be the actual controlling factor.

For fans, it really wouldn't make a crap load of difference whether 3 pin or 4, as either fan will change speed,

For controlling a PWM pump, that gets its power from a molex, it won't do squat. . . .

And powering the pump from the header, while it would likely work at first, would ultimately fry the header, as they are not typically designed for that much load.

To grifftech who asked the question, . . . yes, with a PWM pump on the CPU fan header, it will throttle based on CPU temp, though that doesn't really gain you anything more than annoying variations in noise, . . . . and fans, whether they are 3 pin or 4 pin, can be controlled from the other headers.

There's actually no reason to spend the extra cost for real 4 wire PWM fans either, if you plan to run them from sys fan headers anyway.

If you're using the Swiftech 35X, beware that the published graph is typically crap, it stays at min speed until about 17%, and then is fully maxed out slightly before 50% PWM.

If you're going to use the CPU temp to control the speed anyway, use the info I posted to set up your curve.

In reality, you're really just better off setting the pump at a fixed speed that gives a nominal 1 to 1.5 GPM flow rate and varying just the fan speeds to control temps.

Unfortunately, there's yet another downfall to the plan to run the pump from the CPU header and the fans from the sysfan headers, in that the mobo headers seldom have the current sourcing capacity to run the number of fans on a water cooling setup.

The only work around for that would be to use real PWM fans, power them from the PSU, and use just the PWM signal from the CPU header . . . . and then you'd still need a way to have a real PWM signal for your pump.

Just stuff to think about as you plan . . .

Darlene


----------



## fnyk

Hey ypu guy's i just wantet to show you guy's what i have been working on lately

I know the pic is not the best bit i am planing to get a canon to take some better one's insted of useing my phone

But this is what i have got right new


----------



## Ftimster

To the guy about the lamptron fc5 v3 I am using one on my system and like it allot only small grip the dials are very sensitive to the touch my take a few getting you preferred rpm but it looks and performs awesome!


----------



## ginger_nuts

What do you think?

I am having trouble removing the coolant from my current project, I was going to replace the Rasa with a Bitspower EF block. But to do so I need to remove the MB as well.

Is it worth it even if the Rasa will keep my temps good enough at the max OC?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> I am having trouble removing the coolant from my current project, I was going to replace the Rasa with a Bitspower EF block. But to do so I need to remove the MB as well.
> 
> Is it worth it even if the Rasa will keep my temps good enough at the max OC?


If you are happy with the temps, then why upgrade?

Additionally, if you do upgrade it looks like you are going to have to tear down the loop anyway, so I'd see what else I could upgrade at the same time


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If you are happy with the temps, then why upgrade?
> 
> Additionally, if you do upgrade it looks like you are going to have to tear down the loop anyway, so I'd see what else I could upgrade at the same time


THIS ^^^^^^.....If it ain't broken don't fix it,but if you prefer the looks of the EF block then go ahead and get it,we all know what it feels like to want something that looks better....


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While you may be able to control the speed of fans connected to the sysfan and cpu-opt headers, they are clearly not PWM headers in the same way that we refer to a CPU fan header as PWM, meaning for a designated 4 pin fan, with the 4th pin being a 5V duty cycle modulated control signal.
> 
> Pages 26 & 27 of the manual clearly show that the 4th pin is a fixed 5V pin, (VCC)
> 
> The normal +12V second pin is used for speed control, either by controlling voltage, or pulse width modulating the 12V supply.
> 
> If you were to connect a 4 wire PWM fan to one of these headers, it would appear to work, but only because the VCC pin would be telling the fan to run at full speed, while the power delivery from the 2nd pin would be the actual controlling factor.
> 
> For fans, it really wouldn't make a crap load of difference whether 3 pin or 4, as either fan will change speed,
> 
> For controlling a PWM pump, that gets its power from a molex, it won't do squat. . . .
> 
> And powering the pump from the header, while it would likely work at first, would ultimately fry the header, as they are not typically designed for that much load.
> 
> To grifftech who asked the question, . . . yes, with a PWM pump on the CPU fan header, it will throttle based on CPU temp, though that doesn't really gain you anything more than annoying variations in noise, . . . . and fans, whether they are 3 pin or 4 pin, can be controlled from the other headers.
> 
> There's actually no reason to spend the extra cost for real 4 wire PWM fans either, if you plan to run them from sys fan headers anyway.
> 
> If you're using the Swiftech 35X, beware that the published graph is typically crap, it stays at min speed until about 17%, and then is fully maxed out slightly before 50% PWM.
> 
> If you're going to use the CPU temp to control the speed anyway, use the info I posted to set up your curve.
> 
> In reality, you're really just better off setting the pump at a fixed speed that gives a nominal 1 to 1.5 GPM flow rate and varying just the fan speeds to control temps.
> 
> Unfortunately, there's yet another downfall to the plan to run the pump from the CPU header and the fans from the sysfan headers, in that the mobo headers seldom have the current sourcing capacity to run the number of fans on a water cooling setup.
> 
> The only work around for that would be to use real PWM fans, power them from the PSU, and use just the PWM signal from the CPU header . . . . and then you'd still need a way to have a real PWM signal for your pump.
> 
> Just stuff to think about as you plan . . .
> 
> Darlene


Good info. I think I like the idea of keeping the pump at a steady state. Because once I find a good stable OC I dont see wanting to change the flow but if anything ramping up fans.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> When you have 2 GPUs one will usually be hotter than the other depending if you cool in series or in parallel you can see higher difference. Mine are parallel and have a difference of 4C.


Will be running parallel eventually....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> How long did you run them for at times things will have a lot of variance until they settle. Now to keep in mind since you have your cards in a series your hot coolant from the top card will flow to the bottom card and won't be as effective at transferring heat. I notice when I game coolant temps sky rocket and my cards settle at between 39-44 depending on the game. Still it might be worth checking the mounting on the GPU block but if you are not seeing outrageous temps I wouldn't worry too much about it.


Remounted the block this morning,temps now see a 3 degree difference which i can now live with....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your temp when CPU fully loaded (Prime95 or IBT) and/or when gaming? Fans RPM?


CPU with prime95 fully loaded was 63c highest with all fans running between 1000-1050 rpm's....Gaming in BF3 with all fans at the same rpm like with prime 95 cards did 53 highest temps....33c degrees here today,with a really high humidity....


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> CPU with prime95 fully loaded was 63c highest with all fans running between 1000-1050 rpm's....Gaming in BF3 with all fans at the same rpm like with prime 95 cards did 53 highest temps....33c degrees here today,with a really high humidity....


63C in 33C ambient quite good. Mine max at 78C with fans at ~1400 RPM in 32C ambient. That is @4.5GHz, right?


----------



## superericla

I just ordered some acrylic tubing and primochill acrylic compression fittings.
*insert shameless build log reference here*


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 63C in 33C ambient quite good. Mine max at 78C with fans at ~1400 RPM in 32C ambient. That is @4.5GHz, right?


yes i'm at 4.5 with cpu but my gpu's more often than not runs at stock clocks,only pump the voltage/core clocks up when running BF3 to test temps....


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> yes i'm at 4.5 with cpu but my gpu's more often than not runs at stock clocks,only pump the voltage/core clocks up when running BF3 to test temps....


Can you run prime95 with 90% memory for 30 minutes & post the screenshot at 3820 - 4820 overclock club?


----------



## chefproject

Hi everybody,

a few weeks ago i decided to swap cases and do a little rebuild on my Sig rig.
The new "case" i was using is actually a very nice benchtable and the only thing i am missing right now, is a second GPU to go crossfire









The benchtable i was using is a Banchetto 101 and for the people who don't know it, it looks like that





The first thing, i had to do, was to order some sleeving stuff and because i called that project "Shades of blue" it was some different blue colors of course.

Did a mix of paracord and MDPC-X sleeving which gave me nice shades of blue









Here some pics of the sleeved stuff

















And finally it looks like that

















And some night shots





















Greetings and regards chefproject


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chefproject*
> 
> Hi everybody,
> 
> a few weeks ago i decided to swap cases and do a little rebuild on my Sig rig.
> The new "case" i was using is actually a very nice benchtable and the only thing i am missing right now, is a second GPU to go crossfire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The benchtable i was using is a Banchetto 101 and for the people who don't know it, it looks like that
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing, i had to do, was to order some sleeving stuff and because i called that project "Shades of blue" it was some different blue colors of course.
> 
> Did a mix of paracord and MDPC-X sleeving which gave me nice shades of blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pics of the sleeved stuff
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally it looks like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some night shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings and regards chefproject


Looks awesome!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Base coat done.









Effects paint next weekend for the panels.

Annnnnnd...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8WrGJ4GLm4&feature=youtu.be&t=1h38m11s


----------



## Aftermath2006

can i get a good reservoir recommendation to go in a 900d I've looked at some but would like to get a little help before i pull the trigger

Thanks for any help


----------



## WebsterXC

Tube or bay?


----------



## snef

Nice
Gratz for build of the week


----------



## TampaChaz

I threw my NZXT build in for Mod of the Month....let's see what happens! The builds are all really cool, so it's gonna be interesting to see the results


----------



## Aftermath2006

oh yeah Tube reservoir my bad thought i put that i guess i just thought it


----------



## kpoeticg

Aqualis or Photon are probly the 2 best quality. EK and Bitspower tube res's are more modular, meaning you can switch out the parts for em. 900D's a nice big case though so you really can choose any res you want. Or even 2


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> A few pictures of my new setup.
> 
> Change Log:
> 1. Pipes replaced.
> 2. Angled fittings used to give a cleaner look.
> 3. Darker liquid replaces the brighter red.
> 
> *Old setup:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


those 670's look sick. do not water cool them


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> those 670's look sick. do not water cool them


Blasphemy....Did you just say ''do not water cool them'' in the water cooling club....


----------



## ginger_nuts

I agree, the first thing I thought was "That would look awesome if them cards had some blocks"


----------



## Aftermath2006

the Aqualis Reservoir does it blow down into there's like in the videos and if so would the air bubbles not get into the loop some times

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_zz1k9-G0g


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't have an Aqualis because you can't really mount em horizontally, so i can't speak from first hand experience. But AC makes great quality products. It's supposed to have that waterfall effect. It's one of the highest quality res's tho, so I wouldn't expect that waterfall to cause air bubbles. Maybe if a no-name company made it I'd be a little concerned. I'm sure if you search OCN, you'll find some build logs or threads about it.


----------



## JohnnyEars

I couldn't stand the aqualis waterfall effect, I'm getting older and the sound of running water makes me wee


----------



## kpoeticg

LMAO


----------



## briddell

I think I've finally got enough information to go ahead and mill my first CPU block, but I wanted to bounce the general specs off of you guys to see if it sounds right.

A 1.25mm thick base, plus 2mm deep microchannels spaced .25mm apart, with a jet plate 2mm above the top of the microchannels.

The jet plate has 50 jet holes, in a 5x10 rectangle, the jet holes each 2mm in diameter, with 1mm in-between them all.

2mm above the jet plate, the block "top" start, and you have your G1/4" threads (drill an 11.8mm hole before you tap, right?). Everything except the mounting hardware will be solid oxygen-free copper. Total dimensions are 43mm x 43mm, and between 17 and 19mm tall, depending on how much I have to take off to get a mirror finish on the base.

Does that sound right? Most of my information I drew from the mid 2000s and a history in fluid dynamics, so I don't have modern waterblock design knowledge. Is there anyone from EK here that would be willing to talk to me about the more specific design questions I have?

Side note, does $75 sound good for these blocks, if they perform on-par with modern CPU blocks out there?


----------



## PollytheParrot

Do you guys think two 240s would be enough for a delidded cpu and a 780 sli? What about two 240s and a 120?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well I can't speak for the specs, but I love the 100% copper. As far as price, it obviously depends how good the finished product is =P. But genereally "On Par" isn't what I'd recommend shooting for. Usually what makes a name for people that make blocks is when they release one that "Out Performs" most/all of the blocks on the market at time of release.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PollytheParrot*
> 
> Do you guys think two 240s would be enough for a delidded cpu and a 780 sli? What about two 240s and a 120?


4 x 120 is minimum for SLI IMO. So if you have the space for an extra 120 it'll help your temps


----------



## rickyman0319

i am trying to make black and red theme on my wc system.

UT60 (240 rad)
UV red or red led fans for rad = what fans?
Primochill blood red tube

I need to find a 140 UV red or red led fans for rear exchast and 120 fans for bottom.


----------



## kpoeticg

The Phobya NB E-Loops are Red UV, I'm not sure if they have LED's. They should be just fine


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The Phobya NB E-Loops are Red UV, I'm not sure if they have LED's. They should be just fine


should I get single blade fan or double blade fans for it? which one is better?


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well I can't speak for the specs, but I love the 100% copper. As far as price, it obviously depends how good the finished product is =P. But genereally "On Par" isn't what I'd recommend shooting for. Usually what makes a name for people that make blocks is when they release one that "Out Performs" most/all of the blocks on the market at time of release.


Well, most modern blocks are within at least 7C of each other, so my "selling point" is the full copper construction, the sand-blasted raw copper finish, and the super clean design.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> I think I've finally got enough information to go ahead and mill my first CPU block, but I wanted to bounce the general specs off of you guys to see if it sounds right.
> 
> A 1.25mm thick base, plus 2mm deep microchannels spaced .25mm apart, with a jet plate 2mm above the top of the microchannels.
> 
> The jet plate has 50 jet holes, in a 5x10 rectangle, the jet holes each 2mm in diameter, with 1mm in-between them all.
> 
> 2mm above the jet plate, the block "top" start, and you have your G1/4" threads (drill an 11.8mm hole before you tap, right?). Everything except the mounting hardware will be solid oxygen-free copper. Total dimensions are 43mm x 43mm, and between 17 and 19mm tall, depending on how much I have to take off to get a mirror finish on the base.
> 
> Does that sound right? Most of my information I drew from the mid 2000s and a history in fluid dynamics, so I don't have modern waterblock design knowledge. Is there anyone from EK here that would be willing to talk to me about the more specific design questions I have?
> 
> Side note, does $75 sound good for these blocks, if they perform on-par with modern CPU blocks out there?


Sounds good but I have no idea if it will perform or not lol.

If you are intending to sell em, it may be tough to get a 'competing' company to help you with design









$75 sounds reasonable as a boutiquey block if it performs well and looks good/unique.

What sockets you going to support?


----------



## briddell

1155/1150, 2011, 1366, AM3/AM3+, and FM2 at least.


----------



## rickyman0319

http://www.xoxide.com/phobya-nano2g12pwmsilent-1500rpmredled-doubleblade.html

is this fan okay for radiator?


----------



## darkhorse77

Hey Guys, got busy on my lathe thismorning and made this













only 3 more to go


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> should I get single blade fan or double blade fans for it? which one is better?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> http://www.xoxide.com/phobya-nano2g12pwmsilent-1500rpmredled-doubleblade.html
> 
> is this fan okay for radiator?


Those are OK. I said the Phobya NB E-Loops though. There's only 1 model =)


----------



## cyphon

@darkhorse77, Ooooh fancy. Want!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Well, most modern blocks are within at least 7C of each other, so my "selling point" is the full copper construction, the sand-blasted raw copper finish, and the super clean design.


I'm talking about when like DT started making blocks. His first block outperformed every single block on the market. When i say outperform, I'm talking about flowrate vs pressure drop. Just pointing out to pay alot of attention to flowrate. If you execute it right, along with full copper, and if it's a tight design, you could generate a ton of interest.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Those are OK. I said the Phobya NB E-Loops though. There's only 1 model =)


what about 140mm fan in the rear? what model I shall buy?


----------



## XFaega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what about 140mm fan in the rear? what model I shall buy?


Sorry jumped the gun. Responding without thinking.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XFaega*
> 
> I'm using Noctua NF-P14 FLX. Does really will.


I forget it has to be UV red or red led fan also.


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't know of any real good red 140 rad fans. Akasa Vipers r probly the best 140 rad fans but they're yellow. I'm dyeing mine red and adding my own LED's. It's not hard to add LED's.

The biggest reason 120 rads are so popular is they have a much better fan selection. 140 rads only have a couple to choose from


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't know of any real good red 140 rad fans. Akasa Vipers r probly the best 140 rad fans but they're yellow. I'm dyeing mine red and adding my own LED's. It's not hard to add LED's.
> 
> The biggest reason 120 rads are so popular is they have a much better fan selection. 140 rads only have a couple to choose from


140mm fan is for rear exhast fan and not for rad fan.

120 mm fan is for rad fan only.


----------



## kpoeticg

Ohhhhh, i gotcha. Chassis fans you don't really need to be picky. Check out Bitfenix Spectre's or Enermax fans. They have nice LED effects


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ohhhhh, i gotcha. Chassis fans you don't really need to be picky. Check out Bitfenix Spectre's or Enermax fans. They have nice LED effects


which one u prefer? enemax or other one?


----------



## kpoeticg

I've never used either. Check out youtube. You'll find vidz of both fans. Enermax puts RGB strips in some of their fans with real crazy LED effects. If you wanna be able to do that go for the Enermax. Higher CFM and higher RPM = better airflow.


----------



## rickyman0319

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_69_1052&products_id=35944

is this one okay ?


----------



## kpoeticg

That's a 120mm....


----------



## kpoeticg

But yeah, for chassis fans, the Spectre Pro PWM 140 should be fine. You don't need to be as picky with chassis fans. Pick what you think looks good and just pay attention to CFM and RPM.


----------



## rickyman0319

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_1086&products_id=35961

this one

what model is Spectre Pro PWM 140 ?


----------



## badtaylorx

as far as the 140 rad fans go, these are the same as the vipers, but black....Rosewill ROCF-11003 Hyperborea

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200067 great price @$13 too!!!

anywho, just finished the main part of my lil brothers d-frame.......

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/041_zps102a2937.jpg.html

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/058_zpsd2d07ca4.jpg.html

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/068_zps0294e906.jpg.html

i really liked this one


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't think they've released an LED version of the PRO 140 PWM actually. Listen to what I'm saying, pick what looks good to you. You don't need to go crazy looking at chassis fan specs.
THIS is the regular Spectre PWM Red.
You gotta make your own choice based on how fast/loud you wanna run it, how your gonna control it, and what you want it to look like. Don't overthink it =P But yeah, the fan you showed will be fine


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> as far as the 140 rad fans go, these are the same as the vipers, but black....Rosewill ROCF-11003 Hyperborea
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200067 great price @$13 too!!!


Those are the same design as Vipers but not same specs. They're basically Akasa Apache knockoffs =P Vipers are 1600RPM PWM. The ones you posted are 1300RPM, closer to Apache's

Love the rig though, I'd like to build in one of those chassis someday =)


----------



## rickyman0319

http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-P1425R&c=FR&pid=74fd3044d6ff84258e161264c2629685150d4fc3d3583d5966e89fb607ba465c&gclid=COnuudPsg7oCFevm7AodOF8A-Q

r u talking about this one?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well yeah, i gave you a link to it. If you clicked on it, it would bring you to the same fan at FrozenCPU


----------



## rickyman0319

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17313/fan-1122/BitFenix_Spectre_LED_140mm_PWM_Fan_-_Red_BFF-BLF-P14025R-RP.html?tl=g36c365s1507

I am assume this is the one u r talking about?


----------



## IT Diva

If you're looking for the best 140 out there with red led's that moves a lot of air with decent static pressure, and works very well for rads and cases, go with this one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14514/fan-947/Prolimatech_Aluminum_Vortex_Series_140mm_x_25mm_CPU_Fan_-_Red_LED_1600RPM_127CFM.html?tl=g36c331s877

It actually moves more air than all the other 25mm thick 140's that I've tested.

You'll pay for the performance, and have to wait until it's back in stock, but you can't get any better.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Keep in mind he doesn't need it for a rad. It's just exhaust for his chassis. That's why i'm telling him he's overthinking it. He's using 120's for his rad and he needs a 140 for his chassis. The only person I've known that's owned both Vipers and those Prolimatech's said the Vipers were a noticeable improvement in cooling and noise. I've never used the Prolimatech's though. And I've been dying for martin to do an updated fan roundup. I don't know if you noticed in the thread for the controller you did for him, I mentioned how bad I could use a 140 roundup. That was b4 i got my Vipers.

Good pointout on those for the red LED's. I completely forgot those were red LED fans.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> But yeah, for chassis fans, the Spectre Pro PWM 140 should be fine. You don't need to be as picky with chassis fans. Pick what you think looks good and just pay attention to CFM and RPM.


Stay away from the Specter Pro fans. I had a rig with several in them, and they were so _awful_ (clicking motor noise, warped blades, ridiculously loud) that I tore my whole Red Nuke rig apart, and sold it as fast as I could. For the love of everything that is silent and good, get a better fan. I personally will not use anything other than a Noiseblocker, Noctua, Fractal (if I have to), Gelid, and Gentle Typhoon fan in any build, even if it's coming out of my own pocket.

-Zepp


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Stay away from the Specter Pro fans. I had a rig with several in them, and they were so _awful_ (clicking motor noise, warped blades, ridiculously loud) that I tore my whole Red Nuke rig apart, and sold it as fast as I could. For the love of everything that is silent and good, get a better fan. I personally will not use anything other than a Noiseblocker, Noctua, Fractal (if I have to), Gelid, and Gentle Typhoon fan in any build, even if it's coming out of my own pocket.
> 
> -Zepp


I second that mate









GT , Noiseblocker , Noctua FTW


----------



## DarthBaggins

Good to know on the fans as I know I'll be changing out a few of my AF140 & 120's to SP's to work w/ my watercooling setup, just got my CPU waterblock last night thanks to a member on here







now I just need to get my fittings, pump, and resevior (and coolant of course, lol). This thread has helped alot.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Good to know on the fans as I know I'll be changing out a few of my AF140 & 120's to SP's to work w/ my watercooling setup, just got my CPU waterblock last night thanks to a member on here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I just need to get my fittings, pump, and resevior (and coolant of course, lol). This thread has helped alot.


Corsair fans are nice, but they're so overrated... At this point, I'm sick of them and would be very happy if I didn't have to see another one ever. If you want a stupidly subtle fan, grab a NoiseBlocker PL-2. They're all black, have a nice black sleeved cable, vibration dampening materials included with it, and it's got a fairly nice air flow and pressure rating for a silence optimized fan. They are pricey, but with the warranty and how they perform, I think the price is justified. Hence why I'm using strictly Noiseblocker PL-2's, and eLoops









Gelid Wing fans are good as well, they're very quiet for the price point they are offered at. If you want a nice, white fan that's fairly cheap, get the Gelid fans.

-Zepp


----------



## DarthBaggins

really I'm looking for function more than anything, also when I got the AF's it was due to their price since they were mis-marked lower lol. But yeah I'd rather have something better that can more more air especially through a radiator and out of the case to keep my temps low, as on air my idle is from what I'm seeing low (13c - 9c) Ambient in my apartment is kept at 68 - 74f (due to one of my dogs - husky).


----------



## ledzepp3

Gelid Wing fans would probably be one of your best choice for a fairly inexpensive radiator fan. I'd check them out, and plus with all the fan testing being done by Tator Tot, he recommends them like crazy! Because they made a wicked good fan









-Zepp


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well looks like that's who I'm going with since I've been itching for a reason to order from Frozen-Cpu, lol


----------



## ledzepp3

I'd still check reviews for the best fan, and check around of recently posted fan/radiator threads. Also, buzz over to Tator Tot's round up and see what's happening there









-Zepp


----------



## rickyman0319

I am looking to buy some 120mm fan with UV red or red led . is that good radiator fans for it?


----------



## kizwan

Oh my godddddd! Enough with fans. I want to see pics.









J/K.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Oh my godddddd! Enough with fans. I want to see pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J/K.


No but seriously......

Time for a separate thread at this point


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Stay away from the Specter Pro fans. I had a rig with several in them, and they were so _awful_ (clicking motor noise, warped blades, ridiculously loud) that I tore my whole Red Nuke rig apart, and sold it as fast as I could. For the love of everything that is silent and good, get a better fan. I personally will not use anything other than a Noiseblocker, Noctua, Fractal (if I have to), Gelid, and Gentle Typhoon fan in any build, even if it's coming out of my own pocket.
> 
> -Zepp


Lol I've got Spectre Pro in my Switch, and I have to agree, when turned up they're noisy buggers! Fortunately I have them on a fan controller and keep them quite low









I'm using XSPC Xinrulians on my rads, not bad to be honest, cheap also.


----------



## DarthBaggins

My goodies so far:
XSPC Raystorm CPU Block:


Swiftech 120mm Rad (I have limited space in my Source 210 case of which I will be removing a 3.5" drive bay tower to make room for a majority of the cooling system)


and some bulk vynal pvc tubing (mainly for use w/ flushing the system and initial setup till I find better for a good price):


can't wait to get the remainder of what's left so I can finally install in my system, but still hunting for deals and obtaining the info I need before fully pulling the trigger on parts.
So far what I've been thinking (visual aid)


----------



## Ashuiegi

go for Alpenfohn for fan , they are really on another league of quality , noctua look like toys next to them , and the best part they look fantastic. they have the best bundle from far and are the same price as corsair sp's.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> I second that mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GT , Noiseblocker , Noctua FTW


I told him to go with the Phobya NB E-Loops for his 120's =P. Those are the only fan outta that bunch with Red UV or LED. 140's have less options. I agree with what u said, except Akasa Vipers def. deserve to be on that list in the 140 category. I have GT AP-00's for all my 120 fans


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I told him to go with the Phobya NB E-Loops for his 120's =P. Those are the only fan outta that bunch with Red UV or LED. 140's have less options. I agree with what u said, except Akasa Vipers def. deserve to be on that list in the 140 category. I have GT AP-00's for all my 120 fans


Thee is only one prob with E-Loops you can only mount them in push

But really the best Fas for rads are the GT AP-15
I have tryd so many fans nothing can touch the AP 15s
And if you want a really quite rig just get a fan controller
And turn them down a bit when you don't need max performance
That is what I did
If you can't get a fan controller and still want a really qute rig just get the AP-14s


----------



## kpoeticg

AP-00 > AP-15 =)

You can mount E-Loops in Pull for push/pull setups. They just sound better in push. At least that's my understanding. They're in the top 5 affordable rad fans for sure tho

Noctua's are fairly overrated as well. They're OK for their speedrange, but a fan that tops out at 1500RPM shouldn't have such a high value. Noctua's struggle at 1500RPM and are loud at that point, while AP-15's, AP-00/45's, SP120's, E-Loops all sound like nothing at 1500.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> AP-00 > AP-15 =)
> 
> You can mount E-Loops in Pull for push/pull setups. They just sound better in push. At least that's my understanding. They're in the top 5 affordable rad fans for sure tho
> 
> Noctua's are fairly overrated as well. They're OK for their speedrange, but a fan that tops out at 1500RPM shouldn't have such a high value. Noctua's struggle at 1500RPM and are loud at that point, while AP-15's, AP-00/45's, SP120's, E-Loops all sound like nothing at 1500.


AP -15 > AP-00 
I have both in my rig the AP-00 are just a little better
But make more nose

Nose to performance = AP-15

And yes you can do pull with E-loops but the prom is not
That that just sound funny
The prob is the the blades hit that rad fins
That is way you can read any were that everyone
Is saying not to use them in pull not only so you don't get
Bad sound but so you don't damage you Rad fins


----------



## kpoeticg

I didn't know that about the blades hitting the fins. Wow. I have 15's and 00's too =) I like 00's better
I also use shrouds on all my rads though. I always recommend at least the XSPC 3mm shrouds to people. That would probly take care of the blades -> fins issue

15's and 00's both are quieter than the other at different speeds throughout the range. But I don't think either one is ultimately quieter than the other. The fact that the 00's can move more air wins the tie for me. The higher speed GT's are too loud for me though. I wanted to get some 3000's just cuz u can add PWM functionality to em but they sound like a friggen air plane taking off lol


----------



## ginger_nuts

I wont mention these things pushing air through my rads and case, but they are the best I have came across so far. PWM works a treat, especially since I can have up to since daisy chained together. The price is just a bonus









Oh IMO if you want colour, buy some CCFL, not coloured fans.

My


----------



## ledzepp3

That is possibly the single most beautiful, perfectly executed loops I have ever seen. Congratulations sir, she's gorgeous.

-Zepp


----------



## kpoeticg

CCFL's and LED's are both great for adding color. I like CCFL's for the inside of the rig, just sucks that they don't last long.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I didn't know that about the blades hitting the fins. Wow. I have 15's and 00's too =) I like 00's better
> I also use shrouds on all my rads though. I always recommend at least the XSPC 3mm shrouds to people. That would probly take care of the blades -> fins issue
> 
> 15's and 00's both are quieter than the other at different speeds throughout the range. But I don't think either one is ultimately quieter than the other. The fact that the 00's can move more air wins the tie for me. The higher speed GT's are too loud for me though. I wanted to get some 3000's just cuz u can add PWM functionality to em but they sound like a friggen air plane taking off lol


Ya I tried the 3000RPM ones too sold them after 2 days lol
Could not stand the nose


----------



## treyp77

After viewing this forum for months my attempt at my first build is finished, just the reading post from you guys helped me so much... I enjoy seeing such cool builds...


----------



## lowfat

The AP-00's are the PWM capable GT's?


----------



## kpoeticg

Nah. The AP-00's/AP-45's are the 2150RPM version of the GT AP-15's


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Okay, stupid question: What do y'all use to cleanly cut tubing (flexible kind)? Currently in the middle of building my loop, and this is my first time delving into custom WCing. Knives/sharp scissors don't seem to give me the clean cut I need, but I'm trying to do this without having to buy a tubing cutter.


----------



## Cr4zy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Okay, stupid question: What do y'all use to cleanly cut tubing (flexible kind)? Currently in the middle of building my loop, and this is my first time delving into custom WCing. Knives/sharp scissors don't seem to give me the clean cut I need, but I'm trying to do this without having to buy a tubing cutter.


A good sharp stanley knife will do a good job. Tubing cutters are really just a knife with an easier way to hold the tube and apply the pressure. I have used a pair of scissors in the past, but normally you'll end up with a uneven cut.
Knife is your best bet, secure the tube down and force a knife all the way through.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Okay, stupid question: What do y'all use to cleanly cut tubing (flexible kind)? Currently in the middle of building my loop, and this is my first time delving into custom WCing. Knives/sharp scissors don't seem to give me the clean cut I need, but I'm trying to do this without having to buy a tubing cutter.


I hate to tell you this, but if sharp scissors or a sharp knife won't do, then you'll need to break down and get a proper tube cutter.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Okay, stupid question: What do y'all use to cleanly cut tubing (flexible kind)? Currently in the middle of building my loop, and this is my first time delving into custom WCing. Knives/sharp scissors don't seem to give me the clean cut I need, but I'm trying to do this without having to buy a tubing cutter.


I used a razor. Sort of stretched the tube out then sawed it.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Okay, stupid question: What do y'all use to cleanly cut tubing (flexible kind)? Currently in the middle of building my loop, and this is my first time delving into custom WCing. Knives/sharp scissors don't seem to give me the clean cut I need, but I'm trying to do this without having to buy a tubing cutter.


I used scissors, I worked out a technique that involved kind of twisting the tubing in the scissors. Most of the time the cut ended up okay, I wouldn't say quite as good as a tube cutter but I haven't had any leaking so no problems there


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Okay, stupid question: What do y'all use to cleanly cut tubing (flexible kind)? Currently in the middle of building my loop, and this is my first time delving into custom WCing. Knives/sharp scissors don't seem to give me the clean cut I need, but I'm trying to do this without having to buy a tubing cutter.


Something like this, it should be available in any hardware stores plumbing or sometimes electrical section. Usually under $20:

http://www.sydneytools.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=2988&bc=no


----------



## Murder3D

Hi all, new here.

Just wanted to share some pics of my upcoming watercooling build. I already have my custom case made that I need to paint and I already have some of the parts I need. Water-cooling loop is going to be huge so I'm just collecting some parts atm. Hope these pics are ok.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/dsc0017ay.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/dsc0020qpy.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://www.flickr.com/photos/marco88it/8750677926/
EK D5 Res/Top + BP Premium White Stop Fittings di Marco88it, su Flickr

best regards,

Marco


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treyp77*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After viewing this forum for months my attempt at my first build is finished, just the reading post from you guys helped me so much... I enjoy seeing such cool builds...


Awesome work with fitting everything into that case. I always find it impressive to see a custom loop in a small case. I also absolutely adore that front panel. Looks amazing.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Okay, stupid question: What do y'all use to cleanly cut tubing (flexible kind)? Currently in the middle of building my loop, and this is my first time delving into custom WCing. Knives/sharp scissors don't seem to give me the clean cut I need, but I'm trying to do this without having to buy a tubing cutter.


I just grabbed one of THESE for like 13 bux from Home Depot


----------



## treyp77

i work for at&t i used the scissors we use to cut wire... (thin wire)


----------



## treyp77

thanks... so much:thumb:


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murder3D*
> 
> Hi all, new here.
> 
> Just wanted to share some pics of my upcoming watercooling build. I already have my custom case made that I need to paint and I already have some of the parts I need. Water-cooling loop is going to be huge so I'm just collecting some parts atm. Hope these pics are ok.
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/dsc0017ay.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/dsc0020qpy.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/marco88it/8750677926/
> EK D5 Res/Top + BP Premium White Stop Fittings di Marco88it, su Flickr
> 
> best regards,
> 
> Marco


Looks great


----------



## WebsterXC

I know this isn't exactly watercooling, but these may be of interest to many of you. SLI bridges are often the final piece missing from a perfect color-scheme build:

EVGA Pro SLI- Bridges (they even light up







):

2-Way

3-Way

4-Way


----------



## protzman

dope


----------



## freitz

Love those bridges


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Thanks so much for the help to anyone that answered. Much appreciated!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> I used scissors, I worked out a technique that involved kind of twisting the tubing in the scissors. Most of the time the cut ended up okay, I wouldn't say quite as good as a tube cutter but I haven't had any leaking so no problems there


That is what I'm doing right now, with minimal success to get an okay cut. I have a bunch of crap tubing that I'm using to figure out lengths before I start cutting up my Advance LRT.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just grabbed one of THESE for like 13 bux from Home Depot


Unfortunately, it looks like I'm gonna have to break down and buy one of those >.>. I have some remorse from going into full custom WCing.....because my wallet weeps gently.


----------



## lowfat

I don't like the big EVGA branding.


----------



## rickyman0319

what does it meant by xflow radiator? is there any different between reg. radiator vs. xflow radiator if so? what is the difference?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what does it meant by xflow radiator? is there any different between reg. radiator vs. xflow radiator if so? what is the difference?


http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_297_1270&products_id=20423&zenid=636ee11b7168a93d538e2bbf440c298a Basically it has ports on different sides of the rad,it works for some but not all,meaning it all depends on how you want to run your tubings....


----------



## MykaAurora

Anyone came across damaged parcel from Mountain Mods? I'm thinking to get that case.


----------



## Sunreeper

Those giant EVGA sli bridges look super inelegant and just ugly


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what does it meant by xflow radiator? is there any different between reg. radiator vs. xflow radiator if so? what is the difference?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_297_1270&products_id=20423&zenid=636ee11b7168a93d538e2bbf440c298a Basically it has ports on different sides of the rad,it works for some but not all,meaning it all depends on how you want to run your tubings....


For some reason i think X-Flow rads add a little extra restriction too. Just a heads up


----------



## Tnt6200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_297_1270&products_id=20423&zenid=636ee11b7168a93d538e2bbf440c298a Basically it has ports on different sides of the rad,it works for some but not all,meaning it all depends on how you want to run your tubings....


I believe those crossflow rads are also only single-pass instead of dual-pass, so they will be less effective than a normal rad.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> For some reason i think X-Flow rads add a little extra restriction too. Just a heads up


Is Apogee Drive II a good or bad waterblock for i7 4770k / 2700k cpu?


----------



## kpoeticg

Apogee Drive II's a great waterblock for any system. It's just an Apogee HD Waterblock with an MCP35x mounted on it so it actually increases flow instead of restricting it.

It's most common for people with limited room in their chassis. It doesn't have the sex appeal of say an EK Supremacy with acrylic top. But it function's outstanding. I'm thinking of switching out for a Supremacy just for visual reasons, if i can find somewhere else in my XB to mount a pump. I've already modded it to the skeleton LOL


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what does it meant by xflow radiator? is there any different between reg. radiator vs. xflow radiator if so? what is the difference?


Single pass vs double pass is the difference. Xflow are single pass.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> For some reason i think X-Flow rads add a little extra restriction too. Just a heads up


Incorrect, xflow are less restrictive
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tnt6200*
> 
> I believe those crossflow rads are also only single-pass instead of dual-pass, so they will be less effective than a normal rad.


Yes but it isn't a ton of difference between the same rad in xflow vs non xflow. I have seen numbers somewhere where it is usually 5% or less watts difference in heat removed by the two.

The one benefit to an xflow rad is that it has inlets and outlets on opposite sides which can sometimes really make your loop cleaner looking and or way easier to route in certain situations.

Honestly, I'd use the normal versions unless there is a strong reason to use xflow and you don't mine giving up a tiny bit of performance.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, single pass would def be less restrictive. Wonder where i read that. Sorry for misinfo. Thanx 4 correcting =\


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Anyone came across damaged parcel from Mountain Mods? I'm thinking to get that case.


I ordered an Ext. Ascension a few years ago. Since MM cases are modular, its easy for them to pack the case. Mine arrived unscathed but seeing your profile, it looks you're looking to ship it international? Contact them for a bit more extra padding/packaging









I did mail out both that Ext Ascension and a bigger custom designed Ext. Ascension across the US and both arrived in perfect shape. I over pack a bit an I wrapped all panels individually in clear plastic wrap (I believe MM still does this).


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I ordered an Ext. Ascension a few years ago. Since MM cases are modular, its easy for them to pack the case. Mine arrived unscathed but seeing your profile, it looks you're looking to ship it international? Contact them for a bit more extra padding/packaging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did mail out both that Ext Ascension and a bigger custom designed Ext. Ascension across the US and both arrived in perfect shape. I over pack a bit an I wrapped all panels individually in clear plastic wrap (I believe MM still does this).


Thank you for your kind reply. Yes, they have to ship it internationally. I'll try to ask if they can add extra padding. And I'll have to find out about the UPS / FedEx loss/damaged insurance that they've offered.

Thank you again.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Thank you for your kind reply. Yes, they have to ship it internationally. I'll try to ask if they can add extra padding. And I'll have to find out about the UPS / FedEx loss/damaged insurance that they've offered.
> 
> Thank you again.


Which MM case you're going to get?


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Which MM case you're going to get?


I'm thinking of MM Ascension or the Extended version.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> I'm thinking of MM Ascension or the Extended version.


Definitely get the horizon option and if you plan to run 4-way, get the xl-atx slot option on the mb tray. If I could go back to when I ordered my MM, I would go w/ the extended U2UFO. The Ext. Ascension is big, really big!

-Extended U2Ufo
-Duality front
-ATX Horizon mb layout w/ T stand (moves the psu next to the mb, leaving a 360 on the bottom rear)
-Top, right, left acrylic panels (to view your parts!)
-wrinkle finish (piano leaves way too many finger prints)

As exciting as these cases are, keep in mind the little things we generally take for granted in mass produced cases are not available. Like cable management, i/o panels, drive brackets, etc. These little things are gonna be extra. In the end, I'm just sticking with mass produced cases.

If you want more custom case options, check out Case Labs. They take MM up a level in terms of everything! If I had a lot of mulla to burn, I wouldn't hesitate to get one


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Definitely get the horizon option and if you plan to run 4-way, get the xl-atx slot option on the mb tray. If I could go back to when I ordered my MM, I would go w/ the extended U2UFO. The Ext. Ascension is big, really big!
> 
> -Extended U2Ufo
> -Duality front
> -ATX Horizon mb layout w/ T stand (moves the psu next to the mb, leaving a 360 on the bottom rear)
> -Top, right, left acrylic panels (to view your parts!)
> -wrinkle finish (piano leaves way too many finger prints)
> 
> As exciting as these cases are, keep in mind the little things we generally take for granted in mass produced cases are not available. Like cable management, i/o panels, drive brackets, etc. These little things are gonna be extra. In the end, I'm just sticking with mass produced cases.
> 
> If you want more custom case options, check out Case Labs. They take MM up a level in terms of everything! If I had a lot of mulla to burn, I wouldn't hesitate to get one


Thank you for your suggestion. I'll check out Case Labs too, thanks.

BTW, wont the HPTX tray will support all?

Yeah, the cable management sure will cost a bomb. Might do wiring by my self. LOL.

Thanks again.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Thank you for your suggestion. I'll check out Case Labs too, thanks.
> 
> BTW, wont the HPTX tray will support all?
> 
> Yeah, the cable management sure will cost a bomb. Might do wiring by my self. LOL.
> 
> Thanks again.


HPTX uses the 10-11 XL-ATX slots. Its just wider, which in an Ext. Ascension or U2UFO, there's plenty of room. Horizon is when the mother board is laid out horizontally rather then the traditional vertical. This helps w/ heavy wc gpu blocks (especially multiple cards).

There's a few ways to tackle cable management in these cases. One is to use anchors; there's a bunch of different types of anchors out there to really jazz up and organize your cables. I used sticky cable tie anchors, not the best, but they did the job. Others use anchors that screw on or bolt on to the panel for a much more secure setup (adhesive stickies tend to unstick frequently).

Case Labs does a tad better w/ cable management (ie pass throughs, grommets, punched cable tie anchor points). All these little extras really make them stand out from MM imho. But, it gets expensive. If you have enough mulla for an Ext. Ascension, check out the Case Labs M10 or better yet, the STH-10.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> HPTX uses the 10-11 XL-ATX slots. Its just wider, which in an Ext. Ascension or U2UFO, there's plenty of room. Horizon is when the mother board is laid out horizontally rather then the traditional vertical. This helps w/ heavy wc gpu blocks (especially multiple cards).
> 
> There's a few ways to tackle cable management in these cases. One is to use anchors; there's a bunch of different types of anchors out there to really jazz up and organize your cables. I used sticky cable tie anchors, not the best, but they did the job. Others use anchors that screw on or bolt on to the panel for a much more secure setup (adhesive stickies tend to unstick frequently).
> 
> Case Labs does a tad better w/ cable management (ie pass throughs, grommets, punched cable tie anchor points). All these little extras really make them stand out from MM imho. But, it gets expensive. If you have enough mulla for an Ext. Ascension, check out the Case Labs M10 or better yet, the STH-10.


Alright. This case can become an awesome server rack.







And yeah, the horizon will help with the GPU sagging problem.

I'm not worrying so much about tiding up the cable, but more on insufficient length problem.

I'll check those out. Thanks again.


----------



## derickwm

The STH10 is a wonderful case, check out my Aldri build log


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The STH10 is a wonderful case, check out my Aldri build log


the STH10 is a delight to work with, best case ive had the privilege of building in. You know what they say, once you go caselabs......you go broke...but die happy.

or maybe thats just what i say?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the STH10 is a delight to work with, best case ive had the privilege of building in. You know what they say, once you go caselabs......you go broke...but die happy.
> 
> or maybe thats just what i say?


900D, poor man's STH10


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 900D, poor man's STH10


true







i put them side by side, the resemblance is shocking lol.


----------



## steelkevin

Hi all !

Been a while (I've got 1193 posts to go through ^^) so the following may already have been answered.

I'm getting a 280X but I need to be 100% I'll be able to get a Clear CSQ Nickel EK water block for it. The one I'm looking at is the *HIS R9 280X iPower IceQ X² Boost Clock 3GB GDDR5* which goes for 259.95€ in France on a trusted website. I heard one of the best 7950s was one of HIS'es ICE Q cards because of its PCB's quality or whatnot. Considering the 280X is a 7970 GHz edition I'm going to assume it would be the same (more or less). Does anybody know whether or not the Turbo version @279.95€ is worth it or if it's the same card but overclocked ?

Really need an answer from EK themselves here.
Simply being sure it's a Ref design would help too







.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Hi all !
> 
> Been a while (I've got 1193 posts to go through ^^) so the following may already have been answered.
> 
> I'm getting a 280X but I need to be 100% I'll be able to get a Clear CSQ Nickel EK water block for it. The one I'm looking at is the *HIS R9 280X iPower IceQ X² Boost Clock 3GB GDDR5* which goes for 259.95€ in France on a trusted website. I heard one of the best 7950s was one of HIS'es ICE Q cards because of its PCB's quality or whatnot. Considering the 280X is a 7970 GHz edition I'm going to assume it would be the same (more or less). Does anybody know whether or not the Turbo version @279.95€ is worth it or if it's the same card but overclocked ?
> 
> Really need an answer from EK themselves here.
> Simply being sure it's a Ref design would help too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanks in advance.


i have HIS 7970 ice qx2 ghz cards, the EK waterblocks will fit it perfectly, so i can only assume it will fit their 280x card aswell. The HIS 7970 cards are pretty amazing overclockers.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Hi all !
> 
> Been a while (I've got 1193 posts to go through ^^) so the following may already have been answered.
> 
> I'm getting a 280X but I need to be 100% I'll be able to get a Clear CSQ Nickel EK water block for it. The one I'm looking at is the *HIS R9 280X iPower IceQ X² Boost Clock 3GB GDDR5* which goes for 259.95€ in France on a trusted website. I heard one of the best 7950s was one of HIS'es ICE Q cards because of its PCB's quality or whatnot. Considering the 280X is a 7970 GHz edition I'm going to assume it would be the same (more or less). Does anybody know whether or not the Turbo version @279.95€ is worth it or if it's the same card but overclocked ?
> 
> Really need an answer from EK themselves here.
> Simply being sure it's a Ref design would help too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanks in advance.


As of right now, we can't say for sure as it's a little too early and we haven't seen the PCB. But from what I've seen, most cards that fit the 7970 ref blocks, the 280X version will fit. We will be working to try and get all the 7970/280X block compatibility sorted out asap and updated on coolingconfigurator.com


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As of right now, we can't say for sure as it's a little too early and we haven't seen the PCB. But from what _I've _seen, most cards that fit the 7970 ref blocks, the 280X version will fit. We will be working to try and get all the 7970/280X block compatibility sorted out asap and updated on coolingconfigurator.com


Thanks a lot







.

Not quite sure if I should understand that you won't be making 280X blocks for ref cards because the 7970 ones fit or not though. Because I really don't like any of the available 7970 blocks which is why I've been holding off so long to get a GPU. I guess it'll all be revealed in due time though. I'll just hold off my order for a little while longer then


----------



## kpoeticg

These are gonna be popular cards. Either...
A. The 7970 Blocks will fit
B. You'll have to wait a month or so like all new hardware


----------



## derickwm

The biggest problem is there is no "reference 280X". So there will either be people who re-use 7970 PCBs, or come up with their own altogether. Kind of a mess in terms of compatibility.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well a "reference" 280x is really a "reference" 7970 with 280x written on it. That's how i understand it anyway.....

I don't know how you could like the look a EK block for one card but not like the look of their block for a different card....


----------



## Egami

EK has many different types of blocks? Some of them look way spiffy, even cute whilst some have me scratching my head. Guess it can be build specific too.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> EK has many different types of blocks? Some of them look way spiffy, even cute whilst some have me scratching my head. Guess it can be build specific too.


Well that's why we offer so many variations these days. So many people like different thing and expect different products, but only from us


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> EK has many different types of blocks? Some of them look way spiffy, even cute whilst some have me scratching my head. Guess it can be build specific too.


Yeah they have different types of blocks, but all their blocks can be spotted as EK blocks from a mile away. It's not like EK has 1 7970 and 1 780 etc....
Most of their styles are available for the more popular cards


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well that's why we offer so many variations these days. So many people like different thing and expect different products, but only from us


And kudos to you for that. But then again I'm a sucker for the polishing option people have come up with with regard to the EK blocks. *cough* lowfat's glass like blocks *cough*

I only wish you did a wider selection of fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah they have different types of blocks, but all their blocks can be spotted as EK blocks from a mile away. It's not like EK has 1 7970 and 1 780 etc....
> Most of their styles are available for the more popular cards


Umm... which manufacturer's blocks can't?


----------



## kpoeticg

Bitspower has the widest selection of fittings that i've seen. Monsoon has nice looking fittings too if you want something that looks different. EK offers the essentials though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Umm... which manufacturer's blocks can't?


Alot of people make great blocks. I think EK offers the widest selection by far for all the popular cards though. I'm continuing on what i was saying at the end of the previous page BTW.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The biggest problem is there is no "reference 280X". So there will either be people who re-use 7970 PCBs, or come up with their own altogether. Kind of a mess in terms of compatibility.


hmmm well I didn't know that. I'm not going to order any card until I'm 100% sure then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well a "reference" 280x is really a "reference" 7970 with 280x written on it. That's how i understand it anyway.....
> 
> I don't know how you could like the look a EK block for one card but not like the look of their block for a different card....


That's what I thought too so I figured they'd just take the 7970 blocks and write r9 280X on them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> EK has many different types of blocks? Some of them look way spiffy, even cute whilst some have me scratching my head. Guess it can be build specific too.


Exactly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah they have different types of blocks, but all their blocks can be spotted as EK blocks from a mile away. It's not like EK has 1 7970 and 1 780 etc....
> Most of their styles are available for the more popular cards


I don't even understand what your point is in that first half...
Well obviously the different blocks they offer for 7970s aren't to my liking or I wouldn't even be here in the first place.

I was never a CSQ fan but if that's the way they've decided to go then I can settle for a Clean CSQ Plexi / Niquel block but until I can get one I'm not buying anything and that's my right.


----------



## kpoeticg

What i was trying to say is they offer the same style blocks for pretty much all the popular cards. They may be shaped differently because of the card their connected to, but i dont expect the r9 series blocks to look much different from the 7970, 780, 770, 680, 670 blocks. For instance, if you can't find an EK 7970 block that you like the way it looks, then you shouldn't expect to like the look of their 280x/290x blocks.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What i was trying to say is they offer the same style blocks for pretty much all the popular cards. They may be shaped differently because of the card their connected to, but i dont expect the r9 series blocks to look much different from the 7970, 780, 770, 680, 670 blocks. For instance, if you can't find an EK 7970 block that you like the way it looks, then you shouldn't expect to like the look of their 280x/290x blocks.


How does that even make any sense ?

They offer Clean CSQ Plexi / Nickel blocks for many cards but the 7970 is so old that they didn't release any. Hell the 7970s even have the old non-csq design blocks.
And even if I was looking for something completely new whose to say that they won't and can't release a whole new design just like they did when they first released the CSQ blocks.


----------



## kpoeticg

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16945/ex-blc-1211/EK_Radeon_HD_7970_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acrylic_CSQ_EK-FC7970_CSQ.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17069/ex-blc-1226/EK_Radeon_HD_7970_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC7970_-_Nickel_CSQ.html

Like that?
I'm not trying to pick a fight. Of course they can release new designs. EK just generally has a specific look that (to me at least) is consistent with all their blocks. I haven't seen any particular GPU that has a block that I like but can't find it in another GPU.

I'm also waiting on the r9 blocks. I'm grabbing at least 1 290x at launch. I'm waiting on the RIVE BE block too...


----------



## steelkevin

Haha nope. Those are classic CSQ (frosted). I'm looking for Clear CSQ which is fully transparent and without the silly circles. And those are probably the ugliest blocks available for the 7970s because of the mix between CSQ and that weird CSQ metal plate ^^.

Doesn't really matter though considering the R9 280Xes are out now and sell for dirt cheap (I had 350€ aside for the GPU alone). No point in getting a 7970 even if they made a block I felt like spending money on ^^


----------



## kpoeticg

How did i miss the release?!?!
Also, all the Acrylic blocks are frosted. People sand and polish them to make em have that Glass look. I hear what your saying about the plates on those though.


----------



## Solonowarion

All the acrylic blocks are not frosted.


----------



## kpoeticg

Really? Well i guess I'm dumber than i thought. I thought they were all frosted like that.

Now I understand why what i was saying b4 didn't make any sense


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> How did i miss the release?!?!
> Also, all the Acrylic blocks are frosted. People sand and polish them to make em have that Glass look. I hear what your saying about the plates on those though.


They are not all frosted and they do not all have circles either.

Take for example, the 7950s in my WIP



The steel plate over the VRMs is what steelkevin doesn't like


----------



## kpoeticg

I guess it's all the posts i've seen about people sanding/polishing their blocks that confused me a bit. Sorry for the misunderstanding. So....which one's is it that aren't frosted? Cuz I'm thinking of switching my Apogee Drive II out for a Supremacy and a res with a D5 top =)

The Clean CSQ?
Clean Plexi?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

wow been a while since I've posted but not
too much to update.rig is done practically.
RMA'd a titan a little while back.
added some fan grills,
sleeved usb/HD audio and mobo connectors
added blue light to res. and white lights all around.
bought some white and blue connectors for my 8pin and 6 pin gpu as well as the rest of
the connectors but just haven't gotten around to doing so.




newayz since this rig Is done i'm moving back to my phantom i7 2700k rig to re-vamp it.
gave it to my girlfriend for now and ordered some wicked new airbrush paint (2 tone/gem/chameleon paint)
paint should be here by end of this week..can't wait..i love new projects.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Really? Well i guess I'm dumber than i thought. I thought they were all frosted like that.
> 
> Now I understand why what i was saying b4 didn't make any sense


The product line is called "Clean CSQ"


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> wow been a while since I've posted but not
> too much to update.rig is done practically.
> RMA'd a titan a little while back.
> added some fan grills,
> sleeved usb/HD audio and mobo connectors
> added blue light to res. and white lights all around.
> bought some white and blue connectors for my 8pin and 6 pin gpu as well as the rest of
> the connectors but just haven't gotten around to doing so.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER}
> 
> newayz since this rig Is done i'm moving back to my phantom i7 2700k rig to re-vamp it.
> gave it to my girlfriend for now and ordered some wicked new airbrush paint (2 tone/gem/chameleon paint)
> paint should be here by end of this week..can't wait..i love new projects.


Great job man. That color scheme came out beautiful
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> The product line is called "Clean CSQ"


Thanks =)


----------



## fnyk

Got it from my work

And no that dont mean that i work on nvidia


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The biggest problem is there is no "reference 280X". So there will either be people who re-use 7970 PCBs, or come up with their own altogether. Kind of a mess in terms of compatibility.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well a "reference" 280x is really a "reference" 7970 with 280x written on it. That's how i understand it anyway.....
> 
> I don't know how you could like the look a EK block for one card but not like the look of their block for a different card....
Click to expand...

Meh, I figured it was going to come to this. Someone brought this up in the review thread. It looks like AMD is not going to release a reference model. But, as Derick said, some may use it. It looks like the DC2T has the same connectors as the "reference" 280x.

Wait for the Matrix 280X imho if you want a 7970/280X.

Any chance of the Lightning block coming back if MSI releases a 280X lightning (rebadged 7970 Lightning)?


----------



## steelkevin

If there's no reference 280X then why the hell did they bother changing the cooler from reference 7*** cards ? So basically they designed something, showed it to the public, made a couple and they're not going to use it ?
Now THAT is confusing.

@EK reps any idea when you'll have selected which models are getting waterblocks ? Hopefully it'll be before BF4 :s.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> If there's no reference 280X then why the hell did they bother changing the cooler from reference 7*** cards ? So basically they designed something, showed it to the public, made a couple and they're not going to use it ?
> Now THAT is confusing.


Its a bone-head move by amd. A lot of ppl go w/ the reference design because it can easily be wc. As far as the custom AIB boards, I suspect only a few of the very few, will be compatible w/ the older blocks. I found it really strange that all reviews did not mention anything about this new reference cooler in terms of temperatures. And some pointed out the fact these were custom boards w/ different coolers instead. It makes sense now and just totally surprising. It all comes down to the AIB/AIC choosing to use the reference 7970 setup or not. I doubt there will be a lot of them who will opt in as the turbine cooler is not a good as the custom ones. I'm sure EK is ready to tackle a few of the custom boards to give them blocks. At least it gives 280x owners some option to wc.


----------



## steelkevin

Well lets just hope they'll look at some of the cheapper cards like that HIS ICE Q and not just the overly expensive models (*cough* Matrix *cough*).

Edit: yeah well I'm now realising that the 2-weeks to a ?onth wait for a waterblock I had in mind could very well became a couple months if not even half a year







.


----------



## chang87

Finished Product!









I call him "Toothless"

Intel Core i7-3770k @ 4.7GHz
Asus GTX 660 Direct CU II TOP Edition
Asus P8Z77M-Pro
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB @ 2200Mhz (9-11-10-28-1)
120GB SanDisk Extreme
550W Seasonic G-550 (Gold Rating Efficiency)
Swiftech H220 (Modded)
Corsair Obsidian 350D
Cougar Dual-X Fans (1x120mm, 2x140mm)


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Looking good Chang! I've always loved green builds!


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Looking good Chang! I've always loved green builds!


Thanks man! I really appreciate it!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Seeing that makes me wants that tower, too many choices lol


----------



## MykaAurora

Is there such a thing called GPU support bracket? I really like the horizon mode, but I'm into the normal motherboard mounting.

WB sure is heavy, my matrix sag quite a lot. Had to put a support for it.


----------



## derickwm

There's the Power Jack.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> There's the Power Jack.


Awesome, but how does this mounted for multi GPU?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Well lets just hope they'll look at some of the cheapper cards like that HIS ICE Q and not just the overly expensive models (*cough* Matrix *cough*).
> 
> Edit: yeah well I'm now realising that the 2-weeks to a ?onth wait for a waterblock I had in mind could very well became a couple months if not even half a year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc7970-matrix-acetal-nickel.html

argh... first block is:
- 110€ instead of the usual 80-100€ (-)
- for a card that costs 130€ more than a regular 280X (-)
- Clean CSQ (+)
- Not see-through (-)

EDIT: oh, it's actually just exactly the same as the 7970 Matrix so I guess it makes sense.


----------



## nepToon

My first WC build is not really finished but can I join?
I know it's ghetto, don't be too harsh


----------



## kpoeticg

Doesn't look ghetto. Just looks clean. Good job


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Awesome, but how does this mounted for multi GPU?


Maybe the bridge links between the blocks will serve as additionalweight bearing support.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> My first WC build is not really finished but can I join?
> I know it's ghetto, don't be too harsh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can't be harsh when it looks good







Nice and clean

Only gripe is those tiny pics (I know I can click to enlarge, but it is an extra step and I'm lazy)...why not just upload em on here??


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> My first WC build is not really finished but can I join?
> I know it's ghetto, don't be too harsh


Yeah looks good to me







not bad for your first time, looking to do my first watercooled setup soon as well.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Maybe the bridge links between the blocks will serve as additional support.


Yeah. If not, can fabricate an acrylic block and sandwich between the cards.

Thanks.

More information to gather before placing order with Mountain Mods.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> My first WC build is not really finished but can I join?
> I know it's ghetto, don't be too harsh


Very nice work


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Is there such a thing called GPU support bracket? I really like the horizon mode, but I'm into the normal motherboard mounting.
> 
> WB sure is heavy, my matrix sag quite a lot. Had to put a support for it.


http://www.cardkeeper.net/


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah looks good to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not bad for your first time, looking to do my first watercooled setup soon as well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Doesn't look ghetto. Just looks clean. Good job


Thanks! I've tryed a little bit of everything, 90° graphic card connectors, sewing and modding(rad holder and paint job, even the mobo wasnt safe







).
Good luck darthbaggins, it's really a joy to build a WC rig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Can't be harsh when it looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and clean
> 
> Only gripe is those tiny pics (I know I can click to enlarge, but it is an extra step and I'm lazy)...why not just upload em on here??


ty, ive uploaded it like you asked mr lazy


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> http://www.cardkeeper.net/


For PCI _and_ AGP.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> For PCI _and_ AGP.


Before I switched to a bench I used them on my 7970's w/o a problem


----------



## JottaD

new update


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> new update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks AMAZING!!!


----------



## Close2Death

Just finished it up:





i5 - 3570K @ 4.8GHz
Asus Maximus V Extreme
Mushkin Redline 16GB 7-8-7-24 4x4GB
PowerColor HD 7990 @ 1125MHz/1575MHz
Samsung 840 PRO 256GB SSD
Western Digital Black 2TB HDD
Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid 1050W
Asus DVD/CD Burner
Razer Deathadder 3.5G
Dell MX 23" LED monitor
Dell MX 23" LED monitor
Dell MX 23" LED monitor

Case:
Corsair 900D
HDD cages removed (SSD and HDD mounted in top optical bays)
Stealthed DVD drive
Floor installed (Plexi covered in carbon fiber overlay)
2x Corsair AFL 120mm fans (front)
2x Cooler Master Excalibur 120mm (HDD cooling)

Cooling:
NZXT Sentry Mesh fan controller (internal)
Koolance HL 480mm radiator (bottom side mount)
4x Cooler Master SickleFlow 120mm Silent red LED fans
Alphacool UT60 360mm radiator (top)
3x Cooler Master FetFlo 120mm white LED fans
Internal water temperature LCD readout
Swiftech Apogee HD CPU Block - white
EK HD 7990 Acetal + Nickel Full cover water block with backplate RAM cooler
Alphacool UT60 140mm 60mm thick radiator - rear mount
Bitspower Z-Multi 250 full acrylic reservoir
Swiftech MCP-655 variable pump
EK D5 X-Top pump top
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8"x5/8" tubing (Bloodshed red )
Mayhems Aurora Cooling Concentrate - Tharsis Red
All Bitspower Fittings


----------



## kpoeticg

Looks nice. Did you not add the Aurora yet?
Also, i think you shoulda gone with a cpl elbow fittings and a straight run on that rad -> GPU.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> 
> 
> Got it from my work
> 
> And no that dont mean that i work on nvidia


Ooooh oooh!! I want one!!


----------



## Close2Death

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Looks nice. Did you not add the Aurora yet?
> Also, i think you shoulda gone with a cpl elbow fittings and a straight run on that rad -> GPU.


Thought about it, but it didn't look as good with straight pipes. Looked plain, and it just disappeared into the background. I have not put in the Mayhem's yet.


----------



## kpoeticg

I understand, u wanted the tubing to pop a little bit. I'm still new to WC'ing, I wuz just commenting from everything I've read about "Short Runs" and all that. Still looks real good though. Nice work


----------



## stickg1

Any good cases for mini-ITX watercooling? I just want one 240mm/280mm rad. I know of the Case Labs one, it's awesome, but any other options? The smaller the better.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Compact Splash!!!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Compact Splash!!!


Are they still making those?


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Any good cases for mini-ITX watercooling? I just want one 240mm/280mm rad. I know of the Case Labs one, it's awesome, but any other options? The smaller the better.


There is the semi-obvious Prodigy, and you should probably keep an eye out for the EVGA Hadron Hydro. Not too many details on the latter quite yet.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> new update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks familiar.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MykaAurora*
> 
> Is there such a thing called GPU support bracket? I really like the horizon mode, but I'm into the normal motherboard mounting.
> 
> WB sure is heavy, my matrix sag quite a lot. Had to put a support for it.


Besides the ones mentioned, CM has a "vga support bracket" from the HAF-X available to buy separately.



If your blocks have a bridge available, that stiffens it up substantially. With my current triplets w/ the EK bridge, there's little to no sag at all.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Any good cases for mini-ITX watercooling? I just want one 240mm/280mm rad. I know of the Case Labs one, it's awesome, but any other options? The smaller the better.


If i was gonna do an mitx build i'd go with either CL, or wait for the EVGA Hadron Hydro. Theres gonna be some sick builds in that


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

http://www.overclock.net/t/1372677/compact-splash-watercooling-optimized-mitx-case-wait-list-open
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Are they still making those?


Also, I have the EK FC Bridge and it makes both cards straight as an arrow!


----------



## wermad

Prodigy M











Going to transfer my wife's oem m-atx system into one of these.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Prodigy M
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to transfer my wife's oem m-atx system into one of these.


Can the motherboard tray be flipped easily? Also is it the same size as the old one? Or more importantly will a window side panel from the miniITX fit?


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm pretty sure it's a little bigger since it's the matx version. It's a sweet case so i'm pretty sure most of the stuff that came out for the original Prodigy will be coming out for it


----------



## SeeThruHead

I think its the same size. Still ugly as sin too.


----------



## PollytheParrot

Compact Splash


----------



## stickg1

Yeah the Compact Splash is awesome, but I don't think I could get one anytime soon it looks like.


----------



## derickwm

I loved the prodigy...till I saw it in person.


----------



## IT Diva

Prodigy M is the same size as the original.

It's made so that mobo mounts in reverse atx format.

Little video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTzKZZp48lM

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Interesting. I was expecting it to be a tiny bit bigger to support the extra GPU as well as the bigger mobo. That's a bit of a letdown then....
Thanx for the info IT DIVA


----------



## kpoeticg

If I ever did a build in a compact splash, my Dremel would get lonely =(
It's already too perfect for a WC mitx build

Edit: Sorry for the b2b post. I wasn't paying attention =\


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I loved the prodigy...till I saw it in person.


This. That being said if you agree with the size/aesthetics it's actually a decent mITX case for water cooling.

To each their own.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've never seen one in person. I think it's a great looking mitx case though.


----------



## derickwm

It's a lot bigger in person than one would imagine, at least to me.


----------



## kpoeticg

Alot of the reviews i read about the XB before i bought it (months ago) said the same thing. It was exactly how i pictured it though. I wonder if it's the same type of personal preference situation. I have always pictured the Prodigy being really tiny though.


----------



## MykaAurora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> http://www.cardkeeper.net/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Besides the ones mentioned, CM has a "vga support bracket" from the HAF-X available to buy separately.
> 
> 
> 
> If your blocks have a bridge available, that stiffens it up substantially. With my current triplets w/ the EK bridge, there's little to no sag at all.


Thank you.


----------



## rickyman0319

is UT60 rad enough for i7 4770k and mosfet on MB? or do I need to buy at least 120 or 140 rad for it also. I got 360 rad in the system.


----------



## reycarp

hi, where can I buy that window?


----------



## wermad

C'mon, you'll love the prodigy. Thinking of this or white for the missus:


----------



## nismoskyline

So i took a good shot of my rig finally











and one of my setup











any comments/criticism is welcome


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> So i took a good shot of my rig finally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one of my setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any comments/criticism is welcome


The pictures are rather fuzzy, but your rig looks great!


----------



## szeged

i like that second pic, all darkness with white tubing showing up looks like something from a space horror movie, good job


----------



## hellphyre




----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is UT60 rad enough for i7 4770k and mosfet on MB? or do I need to buy at least 120 or 140 rad for it also. I got 360 rad in the system.


You would probably get away with a 240mm rad, but to keep things quiet, I would suggest going 240 + 120.

That's me.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys wanted to ask if these temps were o.k....While gaming today on a water cooling setup my cards were hitting 56c with and ambient of 37c, also my fans rpm speed was 1100 on all fans,and its still spring here cant image what summer is going to bring....


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys wanted to ask if these temps were o.k....While gaming today on a water cooling setup my cards were hitting 56c with and ambient of 37c, also my fans rpm speed was 1100 on all fans,and its still spring here cant image what summer is going to bring....


for that ambient, those temps are definitely fine imo


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys wanted to ask if these temps were o.k....While gaming today on a water cooling setup my cards were hitting 56c with and ambient of 37c, also my fans rpm speed was 1100 on all fans,and its still spring here cant image what summer is going to bring....


I agree, they are fine. 37 is a really high ambient, where the hell in NSW are you to reach those temps?


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys wanted to ask if these temps were o.k....While gaming today on a water cooling setup my cards were hitting 56c with and ambient of 37c, also my fans rpm speed was 1100 on all fans,and its still spring here cant image what summer is going to bring....


Jesus christ 37c in spring?!
My room at home is probably usually about 18ish I'd say at the moment, and it's autumn.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Jesus christ 37c in spring?!
> My room at home is probably usually about 18ish I'd say at the moment, and it's autumn.


thats australia for you


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its not that surprising. GPU's wll normally be around 10C above water temps at load. Your water temps could easily be 10C above ambient at load. 1100 RPM is not masses of airflow.

Its warm here too ... at 9PM


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just checked BOM. Gees you guys are warm.









Here in Adelaide we didn't even reach 30 yesterday.


----------



## Beaker076

31c today in the heart of Brissy, forcast of 36c or 37c tomorrow. Absolutely awesome weather, can't wait for Summer to set in. Anything below 24c is Freezing in my books.

Although it does seriously cramp the cool running temps of my rig. Soon to put my rig in Scuba School







Not long now, water here we come.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> C'mon, you'll love the prodigy. Thinking of this or white for the missus:


I think it's cool looking. I'm looking at the green one with a side window. It would match my keyboard nicely. I think I will just go ahead with the older Prodigy and a mini-ITX board.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think it's cool looking. I'm looking at the green one with a side window. It would match my keyboard nicely. I think I will just go ahead with the older Prodigy and a mini-ITX board.


I love how your case need to match your keyboard
Not the other way around

My brother from another mother


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> for that ambient, those temps are definitely fine imo


Thanks,was just worried it was too high for a water loop....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I agree, they are fine. 37 is a really high ambient, where the hell in NSW are you to reach those temps?


I'm in Ashfield....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Jesus christ 37c in spring?!
> My room at home is probably usually about 18ish I'd say at the moment, and it's autumn.


We do have weather like that here,it could be hot as hell today and freezing tomorrow....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its not that surprising. GPU's wll normally be around 10C above water temps at load. Your water temps could easily be 10C above ambient at load. 1100 RPM is not masses of airflow.
> 
> Its warm here too ... at 9PM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was just too lazy to get off the bed and ramp the fan speed up....Its 10.30 at night now and its 31c....If i hadnt water cooled my gpu's i wouldnt have been able to game today....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just checked BOM. Gees you guys are warm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here in Adelaide we didn't even reach 30 yesterday.


Count your blessings....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beaker076*
> 
> 31c today in the heart of Brissy, forcast of 36c or 37c tomorrow. Absolutely awesome weather, can't wait for Summer to set in. Anything below 24c is Freezing in my books.
> 
> Although it does seriously cramp the cool running temps of my rig. Soon to put my rig in Scuba School
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not long now, water here we come.


Amen to that,i hate the cold,i'm always freezing here i dnt even sweat....







Must be because i'm from jamaica and i'm use to the warm weather....I freeze 9 months out of the year here,i only look forward to summer....Jamaican's complain when the weather back home drops to 24-25c thats its too cold....


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> We do have weather like that here,it could be hot as hell today and freezing tomorrow....


Define freezing? haha in England it probably gets to about under 5c and I'll walk outside and go 'oooo it's freezing'

It's about 10c out today and I'd say it's a bit chilly


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Define freezing? haha in England it probably gets to about under 5c and I'll walk outside and go 'oooo it's freezing'
> 
> It's about 10c out today and I'd say it's a bit chilly


I'm jamaican so anything below 20-25c for me is freezing....







10c to you chilly,10c for me freezing....


----------



## Yakikuze

HI guys check out my worklog, moded Silverstone FT-03 mini!!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1423648/magnus-opus-2-0-sff-build/20


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm jamaican so anything below 20-25c for me is freezing....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10c to you chilly,10c for me freezing....


Shouldn't 0 be freezing?









Try -20C or colder outside lol....then wind chill on top of that

Fortunately the house won't get under 16ish lol. PC temps get real nice in winter


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah can't wait for when it drops outside so I can see lower temps on my computer since I only keep my heat set to 65-67f


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah can't wait for when it drops outside so I can see lower temps on my computer since I only keep my heat set to 65-67f


the south heat is finally going away







it borke into the high 60s last night here in florida, was feelin great before it shot back up to the 80s lol.

I went to your town once (Dunwoody) when i lived in atlanta, to grab a pizza from Marcos....went in to grab my pizza and came back and there was a stray dog in the bed of my truck







took 5 mins to convince him to get out on his own, was a friendly dog atleast lol.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lmao sounds about right, yeah it was in the low 50's here last night


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Shouldn't 0 be freezing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try -20C or colder outside lol....then wind chill on top of that
> 
> Fortunately the house won't get under 16ish lol. PC temps get real nice in winter


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah can't wait for when it drops outside so I can see lower temps on my computer since I only keep my heat set to 65-67f


Yeah... that is really great when you have the WX for it, but I just left my colder climate to trade it back in for the warmer Florida (sucks), and I have been wishing I hadn't!

Out in CO was my best temps, sitting it near an open window (not while snowing hard) and wearing a nice long robe over sweats... Ahh, that was the life!

Thanks - T


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the south heat is finally going away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it borke into the high 60s last night here in florida, was feelin great before it shot back up to the 80s lol.
> 
> I went to your town once (Dunwoody) when i lived in atlanta, to grab a pizza from Marcos....went in to grab my pizza and came back and there was a stray dog in the bed of my truck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> took 5 mins to convince him to get out on his own, was a friendly dog atleast lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lmao sounds about right, yeah it was in the low 50's here last night


I used to live in north Florida and also Atlanta lol. I moved up here to get away from the heat, lol. I know it's backwards from what most people do, but I like cold weather


----------



## AsanteSoul

saw this photo on the ek website..very curious to know how I can obtain the waterblock in the gold color..in fact...I want to know how i can obtain the majority of the parts used in this pic.. I am looking to get into water cooling and stumbled across this amazing build.. I see the cpu block on the EK website...what about the other stuff? Help would be very appreciated !


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I used to live in Florida and also Atlanta lol. I moved up here to get away from the heat, lol. I know it's backwards from what most people do, but I like cold weather


i love winter and colder weather better as well







florida is killing me, but ive been here 20 years (except that one year in atlanta) so itll be hard for me to leave it behind









i would like to move to the Scandinavian area though. Or Svalbard...Svalbard would be nice.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> We do have weather like that here,it could be hot as hell today and freezing tomorrow....


That's how it is here in Ontario (Canada).

It can get into the -20's Celcius in winter and get up to 40 celsius in the summer (and above with the humidex...damn humidity).

On topic:

Question--should I be okay with a slim 360mm radiator for an 8350 and a GTX 670?
Or should I get a 240mm rad as well.

I don't have space for push/pull on the 360, but I can get push/pull on the 240mm.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> That's how it is here in Ontario (Canada).
> 
> It can get into the -20's Celcius in winter and get up to 40 celsius in the summer (and above with the humidex...damn humidity).
> 
> On topic:
> 
> Question--should I be okay with a slim 360mm radiator for an 8350 and a GTX 670?
> Or should I get a 240mm rad as well.
> 
> I don't have space for push/pull on the 360, but I can get push/pull on the 240mm.


You might be pushing it a bit. You could try it first. How much are you overclocking.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsanteSoul*
> 
> 
> 
> saw this photo on the ek website..very curious to know how I can obtain the waterblock in the gold color..in fact...I want to know how i can obtain the majority of the parts used in this pic.. I am looking to get into water cooling and stumbled across this amazing build.. I see the cpu block on the EK website...what about the other stuff? Help would be very appreciated !


As you mentioned, the CPU block is currently for sale. As of right now it isn't set in stone that we'll be bringing gold plated GPU blocks to market. The one seen here was done specially for [email protected]

Other than that, the motherboard is an Asus mainstream Z87 chipset board. The fittings are Monsoon and the case is a Murderbox MKII which is available for pre-order @http://murderbox.com/.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> You might be pushing it a bit. You could try it first. How much are you overclocking.


Even with a decent OC, he should be 'ok' in terms of not overheating, lol. This would mean running full speed fans too tho

Definitely would recommend adding the 240 if you have the space. That will get you more cooling power and the ability to run slower fan speeds for light to moderate operation, and crank em up when you need the extra heat removal.


----------



## AsanteSoul

Thank you kindly for your response! Rather bummed that it may not see an official release...it's quite nice..but thank you for the reply


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> That's how it is here in Ontario (Canada).
> 
> It can get into the -20's Celcius in winter and get up to 40 celsius in the summer (and above with the humidex...damn humidity).
> 
> On topic:
> 
> Question--should I be okay with a slim 360mm radiator for an 8350 and a GTX 670?
> Or should I get a 240mm rad as well.
> 
> I don't have space for push/pull on the 360, but I can get push/pull on the 240mm.


Can never have too much rad.









If you've got the space and cash add it for sure.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Thanks guys, I was already pretty convinced that I would need that 240mm.

Already picked up my Gentle Typhoons









One more question--is it worth it to have the 240mm in push pull? I have the space, but I'd have to buy a couple more fans.
Right now I have enough GT's for both rads in push *or* pull.

This build has been getting more and more expensive as it goes


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Thanks guys, I was already pretty convinced that I would need that 240mm.
> 
> Already picked up my Gentle Typhoons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more question--is it worth it to have the 240mm in push pull? I have the space, but I'd have to buy a couple more fans.
> Right now I have enough GT's for both rads in push *or* pull.
> 
> This build has been getting more and more expensive as it goes


What thickness rads are you using again? If it is the 60 or 80, then it would probably be a good idea. 30-45, then you will probably be fine.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What thickness rads are you using again? If it is the 60 or 80, then it would probably be a good idea. 30-45, then you will probably be fine.


The 360 is 45mm, and I think the 240mm I was planning on buying was either 45mm or 60mm. I'll have to check.

I know it wouldn't be a bad idea, but if it's only a couple degree of difference I'll hold off on buying more fans for now.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsanteSoul*
> 
> Thank you kindly for your response! Rather bummed that it may not see an official release...it's quite nice..but thank you for the reply


You could always buy a copper block and have it gold plated? I've been thinking about doing that for a gold themed build. Not sure how expensive it would be...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## WebsterXC

Incredibly expensive, that's why I never did it with my LD.


----------



## szeged

crayola still makes gold colored crayons....get to it!

if you cant afford premium crayola crayons, roseart has gold still i think.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Incredibly expensive, that's why I never did it with my LD.


Whelp, there goes that idea


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> The 360 is 45mm, and I think the 240mm I was planning on buying was either 45mm or 60mm. I'll have to check.
> 
> I know it wouldn't be a bad idea, but if it's only a couple degree of difference I'll hold off on buying more fans for now.


360mm for two blocks would be fine, you only need 120mm per block and plus another 120mm of rad space. Unless you go a very high FPI you would also be fine for just push or pull.

Yes you probably would gain a 1-3 degrees Celsius on the loop if you go push pull, but usually that is not enough to change your OC. Just the noise.

My


----------



## MiniMaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yakikuze*
> 
> HI guys check out my worklog, moded Silverstone FT-03 mini!!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423648/magnus-opus-2-0-sff-build/20


Looks pretty epic. Nice one!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Incredibly expensive, that's why I never did it with my LD.


Also why we haven't committed to doing it for GPU blocks yet.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Also why we haven't committed to doing it for GPU blocks yet.


any diamond encrusted blocks in the near future for EK?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 360mm for two blocks would be fine, you only need 120mm per block and plus another 120mm of rad space. Unless you go a very high FPI you would also be fine for just push or pull.
> 
> Yes you probably would gain a 1-3 degrees Celsius on the loop if you go push pull, but usually that is not enough to change your OC. Just the noise.
> 
> My


That is not true to gat any ok performance
It would be 120mm per GPU , Ram , MoBo block
And 240mm per CPU

So for CPU + 1 GPU 360mm will be ok but it will be ok but won't be optimal
And he is getting only a 45mm thick rad so I would say
Get 360 + 240 and you are good to go and you could even add a nother
GPU in later on if you would like and I would go with pull
There is not big deference and if you go pull it will be easy for you to clean the rad with out taking the fans off


----------



## kpoeticg

120 per block + an extra 120
&
240 for CPU + 120 per other block

are 2 different ways of saying the same exact thing =)


----------



## air tree

A little off topic but what would be the best copper tubing size for a loop? And where would i get copper tubing for the right ID and OD?

And what compression fittings would i be using.


----------



## kpoeticg

How is that off topic? If you check out the MOTM build log from the home page, he used copper pipes. I could be wrong, but i always assumed if you use the same ID/OD as acrylic you can use the same fittings for your blocks.

You could probly thread the copper too, but that would be a huge PITA to connect blocks except for 100% straight runs


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> How is that off topic? If you check out the MOTM build log from the home page, he used copper pipes. I could be wrong, but i always assumed if you use the same ID/OD as acrylic you can use the same fittings for your blocks.


the MOTM build used 8/10mm copper pipe with the matching phobya push fittings.

BNeg has a 'how to bend copper' guide. I am sure the people that frequent that thread would also be able to help with various different options


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> the MOTM build used 8/10mm copper pipe with the matching phobya push fittings.
> 
> BNeg has a 'how to bend copper' guide. I am sure the people that frequent that thread would also be able to help with various different options


Does anyone know what size of copper tubing and fittings was used in the murderbox prototype build? I'm thinking of chrome plating my copper tubing also.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Does anyone know what size of copper tubing and fittings was used in the murderbox prototype build? I'm thinking of chrome plating my copper tubing also.


If I had do take a guess, I'd say those are Bitspower c47 fittings, so 12mm OD tube.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 120 per block + an extra 120
> &
> 240 for CPU + 120 per other block
> 
> are 2 different ways of saying the same exact thing =)


No it is not you my not get what I was saying but in short
He was saying that 240mm is the minimum
I'm saying 360mm is the minimum for that set up


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 360mm for two blocks would be fine, you only need 120mm per block and plus another 120mm of rad space. Unless you go a very high FPI you would also be fine for just push or pull.
> 
> Yes you probably would gain a 1-3 degrees Celsius on the loop if you go push pull, but usually that is not enough to change your OC. Just the noise.
> 
> My


120 for CPU + 120 for GPU + 120 = 360
240 for CPU + 120 for GPU = 360


----------



## ginger_nuts

Why do AMD then use only a 120mm rad on their monster of a heat deamon FX-9370?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Why do AMD then use only a 120mm rad on their monster of a heat deamon FX-9370?


IMO, both ways of saying it are completely valid. But it works out to the same thing. 120 per block + 120 or 240 for CPU + 120 per block. I was just pointing out that he was agreeing with what you said but disagreeing with how u said it. You can't really use those bundles as a rule of thumb, cuz most processors come with a Stock Air Cooler.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> A little off topic but what would be the best copper tubing size for a loop? And where would i get copper tubing for the right ID and OD?
> 
> And what compression fittings would i be using.


Guide in my sig.

I have seen you on Linustech forum I think....


----------



## JohnnyEars

As for gold plated stuff... gold leaf can be effective if it's done right - and diy kits are cheap. Obviously it's not a very robust, but for a showpiece it could look cool.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 360mm for two blocks would be fine, you only need 120mm per block and plus another 120mm of rad space. Unless you go a very high FPI you would also be fine for just push or pull.
> 
> Yes you probably would gain a 1-3 degrees Celsius on the loop if you go push pull, but usually that is not enough to change your OC. Just the noise.
> 
> My


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> That is not true to gat any ok performance
> It would be 120mm per GPU , Ram , MoBo block
> And 240mm per CPU
> 
> So for CPU + 1 GPU 360mm will be ok but it will be ok but won't be optimal
> And he is getting only a 45mm thick rad so I would say
> Get 360 + 240 and you are good to go and you could even add a nother
> GPU in later on if you would like and I would go with pull
> There is not big deference and if you go pull it will be easy for you to clean the rad with out taking the fans off


That's basically what I figured, thanks guys.

And yes, I want to not be too thermally restricted when OC'ing, and I also want everything to run quietly--so I was already 99% convinced to get the 240mm as well.

You guys cinched it









As far as push pull, that's what I figured as well--a couple degrees isn't worth the extra 40 - 60 bucks (after shipping, taxes, etc.) I'd be spending on fans. At least right now









+rep!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 360mm for two blocks would be fine, you only need 120mm per block and plus another 120mm of rad space. Unless you go a very high FPI you would also be fine for just push or pull.
> 
> Yes you probably would gain a 1-3 degrees Celsius on the loop if you go push pull, but usually that is not enough to change your OC. Just the noise.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> That is not true to gat any ok performance
> It would be 120mm per GPU , Ram , MoBo block
> And 240mm per CPU
> 
> So for CPU + 1 GPU 360mm will be ok but it will be ok but won't be optimal
> And he is getting only a 45mm thick rad so I would say
> Get 360 + 240 and you are good to go and you could even add a nother
> GPU in later on if you would like and I would go with pull
> There is not big deference and if you go pull it will be easy for you to clean the rad with out taking the fans off
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's basically what I figured, thanks guys.
> 
> And yes, I want to not be too thermally restricted when OC'ing, and I also want everything to run quietly--so I was already 99% convinced to get the 240mm as well.
> 
> You guys cinched it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as push pull, that's what I figured as well--a couple degrees isn't worth the extra 40 - 60 bucks (after shipping, taxes, etc.) I'd be spending on fans. At least right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep!
Click to expand...

Don't forget that you can run 2 sets of fans in P-P slower and quieter and still get the same airflow for the same cooling with less noise than a single set of fans.

P-P on a controller is the best way to have quiet when you want it, without sacrificing performance when you need it.

Darlene


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> That is not true to gat any ok performance
> It would be 120mm per GPU , Ram , MoBo block
> And 240mm per CPU
> 
> So for CPU + 1 GPU 360mm will be ok but it will be ok but won't be optimal
> And he is getting only a 45mm thick rad so I would say
> Get 360 + 240 and you are good to go and you could even add a nother
> GPU in later on if you would like and I would go with pull
> There is not big deference and if you go pull it will be easy for you to clean the rad with out taking the fans off


Actually, there are a LOT more variables affecting radiator performance to a much larger degree (hmm....pun-y) than just radiator thickness. Look at Martin's library of data, and you'll see that just because something is 60mm thick doesn't mean it will out-perform something 45mm thick.
Just to name a few of the other factors:
- Build Material
- Build Quality
- Fin Density
- Find Design/Shape
- Row Count
- Tube Shape
- Restriction
- Number of Passes
- Airflow Restriction (similar, but not the same as fin density)
- Distance from Fan Mount to Radiator Core

Furthermore, the fan speed (or rather, not the speed, but the static pressure to airflow relationship of the fan) and the airflow pattern and velocity will have a large effect. Air moving slowly through a thick radiator is worse for cooling than air moving quickly through a thinner radiator, because every little bit of heat absorbed (by the air) decreases its ability to absorb any more; i.e. 65F air through a 90F radiator will have excellent heat transfer, but 85F air through a 90F radiator will have poor heat transfer. The thing is, air temperature is NOT a constant when traveling through a radiator, and the differences in temperature are not nearly as extreme as the example I just gave.

You'll know you're getting good cooling if the airflow and air velocity is enough that the air coming out of the rad exhaust side is not significantly different in temperature than the air going in. That means there's lots of air molecules each responsible for a small amount of heat transfer, as opposed to fewer where each molecule has to carry away a lot more heat (which is immensely ineffective).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Don't forget that you can run 2 sets of fans in P-P slower and quieter and still get the same airflow for the same cooling with less noise than a single set of fans.
> 
> P-P on a controller is the best way to have quiet when you want it, without sacrificing performance when you need it.
> 
> Darlene


As always, spot on!

Airflow velocity, as mentioned above, is another important benefit of P-P fans.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Actually, there are a LOT more variables affecting radiator performance to a much larger degree (hmm....pun-y) than just radiator thickness. Look at Martin's library of data, and you'll see that just because something is 60mm thick doesn't mean it will out-perform something 45mm thick.
> Just to name a few of the other factors:
> - Build Material
> - Build Quality
> - Fin Density
> - Find Design/Shape
> - Row Count
> - Tube Shape
> - Restriction
> - Number of Passes
> - Airflow Restriction (similar, but not the same as fin density)
> - Distance from Fan Mount to Radiator Core
> 
> Furthermore, the fan speed (or rather, not the speed, but the static pressure to airflow relationship of the fan) and the airflow pattern and velocity will have a large effect. Air moving slowly through a thick radiator is worse for cooling than air moving quickly through a thinner radiator, because every little bit of heat absorbed (by the air) decreases its ability to absorb any more; i.e. 65F air through a 90F radiator will have excellent heat transfer, but 85F air through a 90F radiator will have poor heat transfer. The thing is, air temperature is NOT a constant when traveling through a radiator, and the differences in temperature are not nearly as extreme as the example I just gave.
> 
> You'll know you're getting good cooling if the airflow and air velocity is enough that the air coming out of the rad exhaust side is not significantly different in temperature than the air going in. That means there's lots of air molecules each responsible for a small amount of heat transfer, as opposed to fewer where each molecule has to carry away a lot more heat (which is immensely ineffective).
> As always, spot on!
> 
> Airflow velocity, as mentioned above, is another important benefit of P-P fans.


Man don't put words in my mouth I never sed that rad thickness is the only factor for good water cooling
And I have read martin's stuf and most other water cooling guides
rad , fans , pump , CPU ... You get it
I was not going in to details of ever aspect of water cooling
He ask a question and I answerd him
If you fill that you would like to give him a full water cooling guid
Than good for you

And push pull is not all ways worth it
He dos not what too spend extra $$ he dos not need too
And the 2-3 c he my get from push pull or running the fans a little
Slower and quieter is not worth it for him over saving 40$


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Don't forget that you can run 2 sets of fans in P-P slower and quieter and still get the same airflow for the same cooling with less noise than a single set of fans.
> 
> P-P on a controller is the best way to have quiet when you want it, without sacrificing performance when you need it.
> 
> Darlene


This. Diva strikes again









Reason why I have 27 R4s. Got them at 40% (4.8v) on the NZXT Mix2 controller. Pump (mcp35x @ 100%) is the loudest thing. I can drop the pump (also on the controller) to quell that also. Love that this newer controller sends full power upon start up. Makes sure my pump starts up then drops it to the lower voltage I have selected. Same with the fans, though 27 2k rpm fans are noisy for a few seconds


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This. Diva strikes again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reason why I have 27 R4s. Got them at 40% (4.8v) on the NZXT Mix2 controller. Pump (mcp35x @ 100%) is the loudest thing. I can drop the pump (also on the controller) to quell that also. Love that this newer controller sends full power upon start up. Makes sure my pump starts up then drops it to the lower voltage I have selected. Same with the fans, though 27 2k rpm fans are noisy for a few seconds


27 fans..........good God.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 27 fans..........good God.....


p/p 480
p/p 480
p/p 360
p/p 240
p 120


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> As for gold plated stuff... gold leaf can be effective if it's done right - and diy kits are cheap. Obviously it's not a very robust, but for a showpiece it could look cool.


I've tried this. Not to be offensive but don't try. It's nowhere close to a smooth gold finish, and you'd be doing more damage to blocks than good.


----------



## Nikola-Tesla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 360mm for two blocks would be fine, you only need 120mm per block and plus another 120mm of rad space. Unless you go a very high FPI you would also be fine for just push or pull.
> 
> Yes you probably would gain a 1-3 degrees Celsius on the loop if you go push pull, but usually that is not enough to change your OC. Just the noise.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> That is not true to gat any ok performance
> It would be 120mm per GPU , Ram , MoBo block
> And 240mm per CPU
> 
> So for CPU + 1 GPU 360mm will be ok but it will be ok but won't be optimal
> And he is getting only a 45mm thick rad so I would say
> Get 360 + 240 and you are good to go and you could even add a nother
> GPU in later on if you would like and I would go with pull
> There is not big deference and if you go pull it will be easy for you to clean the rad with out taking the fans off
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's basically what I figured, thanks guys.
> 
> And yes, I want to not be too thermally restricted when OC'ing, and I also want everything to run quietly--so I was already 99% convinced to get the 240mm as well.
> 
> You guys cinched it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as push pull, that's what I figured as well--a couple degrees isn't worth the extra 40 - 60 bucks (after shipping, taxes, etc.) I'd be spending on fans. At least right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget that you can run 2 sets of fans in P-P slower and quieter and still get the same airflow for the same cooling with less noise than a single set of fans.
> 
> P-P on a controller is the best way to have quiet when you want it, without sacrificing performance when you need it.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Question before first WC attempt:
Setup with SR1 rads and (mostly) 140mm fans (sub-900rpm), more than enough rad space

Is it worth (in that case) going P-P or single pull should be fine?
Low noise levels on idle are very important to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 27 fans..........good God.....


That'll be Aeolus, god of winds ^^


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikola-Tesla*
> 
> Question before first WC attempt:
> Setup with SR1 rads and (mostly) 140mm fans (sub-900rpm), more than enough rad space
> 
> Is it worth (in that case) going P-P or single pull should be fine?
> Low noise levels on idle are very important to me.
> That'll be Aeolus, god of winds ^^


U'd be fine with pull. I always prefer push/pull for all rads but I have issues lol

Why is so much of ur work classified?


----------



## Beaker076

Ok a quick question for all the knowledgeable folk.

Does anyone know if the Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Mod Kit like this
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=27891

will fit the new XSPC D5 Photon 170 / 270 ? like this
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=39186


----------



## Akula

Project Mercury
Caselabs Mercury S3

Build Log - https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/1r8v.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/802/kq3i.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/20/nw0u.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/o8nc.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/3zi6.jpg/


----------



## bomberjun

rigid bottom loop.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> rigid bottom loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Unless the darkness of the pic is making something too difficult to see clearly, the lower 90 degree curved piece of tubing going from the right horizontal T to the left vertical T with its back to back 90 degree fittings looks terribly convoluted.

Why not use a straight piece of tubing from the left side vertical T with a single 90 degree fitting into the right side horizontal T.

It would look a lotttt cleaner.

Darlene


----------



## bomberjun

Nope.. cant do that. Im on a dual loop.

Left loop is for the gpu and right is for the cpu loop. It just looks convuluted because i not done yet.

The t tubings were used to connect them to a single drain port. That's it. Looks dark because I dont have a flash.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Nope.. cant do that. Im on a dual loop.
> 
> Left loop is for the gpu and right is for the cpu loop. It just looks convuluted because i not done yet.
> 
> The t tubings were used to connect them to a single drain port. That's it. Looks dark because I dont have a flash.


Put a small light next to your build if you dont have a flash.. Easy fix


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Project Mercury
> Caselabs Mercury S3
> 
> Build Log - https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/1r8v.jpg/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/802/kq3i.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/20/nw0u.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/o8nc.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/3zi6.jpg/


Looking good Akula,dat Scythe silencer........


----------



## bomberjun




----------



## Thrasher1016

Ya'll see DEEZ???

So much sexier than the original ghost fittings!

Thanks - T


----------



## steelkevin

*Ek is preparing a block for the ASUS R9280X-DC2(T)-3GD5*.

A 310€ model 280X against 260€ for a HIS ICE Q².
Maybe some of you are interested in that, I can't justify an extra 50€ (or ~20% of the HIS) so I'll have to keep waiting and see what they do.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Ya'll see DEEZ???
> 
> So much sexier than the original ghost fittings!
> 
> Thanks - T


Yeah......they are









I don't like the vertical line version tho...the cross-hatch version is pretty slick.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey gang,

I'm about to pull the trigger on water blocks for my stretched limo build while I can find the ram, supremacy and mobo all in plexi-nickel, and in stock at the same place at the same time.

I'll be getting the RIVE-BE when it comes out.

Sooooooo, . . . . . .

Does anyone know yet whether the EK mobo block for the RIVE,

This one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_241_589&products_id=35209

will also fit the BE?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Project Mercury
> Caselabs Mercury S3
> 
> Build Log - https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/1r8v.jpg/


Really nice build so far! Like the Himuro!







Here's how I did mine...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger on water blocks for my stretched limo build while I can find the ram, supremacy and mobo all in plexi-nickel, and in stock at the same place at the same time.
> 
> I'll be getting the RIVE-BE when it comes out.
> 
> Sooooooo, . . . . . .
> 
> Does anyone know yet whether the EK mobo block for the RIVE,
> 
> This one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_241_589&products_id=35209
> 
> will also fit the BE?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


Hey Darlene,

We haven't tested it yet as we don't have the board in office yet but most of us are thinking it'll most likely not fit. We are developing a block for it and are hoping to have it for sale within a month of launch date of the R4BE.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger on water blocks for my stretched limo build while I can find the ram, supremacy and mobo all in plexi-nickel, and in stock at the same place at the same time.
> 
> I'll be getting the RIVE-BE when it comes out.
> 
> Sooooooo, . . . . . .
> 
> Does anyone know yet whether the EK mobo block for the RIVE,
> 
> This one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Darlene,
> 
> We haven't tested it yet as we don't have the board in office yet but most of us are thinking it'll most likely not fit. We are developing a block for it and are hoping to have it for sale within a month of launch date of the R4BE.
Click to expand...

Thanks for chiming in so promptly!

Guess I'll not be adding it to my cart.

The fact that the pics of the BE show nothing in the location between the top GPU slot and CPU, where there is usually a heatsink on the heatpipe line, had me suspecting exactly that answer.

Thanks again for the quick confirmation,

Darlene


----------



## Trolle BE

what would you guys reccommend for uv lights?
cathodes or flexlights(LED)?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> As for gold plated stuff... gold leaf can be effective if it's done right - and diy kits are cheap. Obviously it's not a very robust, but for a showpiece it could look cool.


The little gilding I did back in the days, you can get very nice results with gold leaf if you can be bothered with the right prepping, installation and aftercare. Guess it'll be a question of what people want to gild that will define the answer. DIY fittings, unlikely. DIY block exteriors, sure.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> what would you guys reccommend for uv lights?
> cathodes or flexlights(LED)?


Good question. I have only used the cathodes, but the LEDs seem like they'd give you more options assuming they give off enough light.

I saw an excellent build the other day that looks like it uses the LEDs.


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Good question. I have only used the cathodes, but the LEDs seem like they'd give you more options assuming they give off enough light.
> 
> I saw an excellent build the other day that looks like it uses the LEDs.


im also using leds for the moment but they seems to get dim quite fast
some barely give any light anymore


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Guys, I want to go full water, but I have 2 Sapphire Vapor-X 6950s, so no waterblocks. How hard would it be to get someone to either trade for others or sell them for others?

Also, I'm using a RS240 XSPC kit. I hate this resevoir. Anyone want to help me with a parts list? Would always go clear tubing, since I'm going for Mayhems dye. Probably would like a tube resevoir.

Plus, I'm in a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2. Should I get another case?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Guys, I want to go full water, but I have 2 Sapphire Vapor-X 6950s, so no waterblocks. How hard would it be to get someone to either trade for others or sell them for others?
> 
> Also, I'm using a RS240 XSPC kit. I hate this resevoir. Anyone want to help me with a parts list? Would always go clear tubing, since I'm going for Mayhems dye. Probably would like a tube resevoir.
> 
> Plus, I'm in a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2. Should I get another case?


Well, have you confirmed that waterblocks exist for your cards?


----------



## Darth Scabrous

They don't, that's why I'm looking for someone to trade them for other 6950s. I know a lot of miners use them, as do I, but I'd rather my system be uniform, so I'll have to trade or buy new ones.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> They don't, that's why I'm looking for someone to trade them for other 6950s. I know a lot of miners use them, as do I, but I'd rather my system be uniform, so I'll have to trade or buy new ones.


Read your post out of context, sorry. My recommendation would be to just see what you can get for your 6950's, and buy something else, but that may be a bad idea seeing as you probably won't be able to sell them for more than $150 a piece.


----------



## hellphyre

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

They don't even list a 6950 vapor. You are going to need a universal. If it were a reference card the 6970 blocks would have fit.

If you are looking for a different reservoir, I use bitspower water tanks in my builds and I like them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellphyre*
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/
> 
> They don't even list a 6950 vapor. You are going to need a universal. If it were a reference card the 6970 blocks would have fit.
> 
> If you are looking for a different reservoir, I use bitspower water tanks in my builds and I like them.


Because they are the best res around,whats not to like?

I has a big one.and a pair of small ones.



Thats next to a full fat S3....400mm of resygreatness.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd take a look into a pair of 7870's or 7950's or even the newer R7's/R9's, other than seeing the new R9's I'm thinking of putting my ASUS HD7870 2GB Direct CUII GPU up for sale.


----------



## hellphyre

Damn B Neg, I thought my 250mm was a little excessive lol. You win.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> im also using leds for the moment but they seems to get dim quite fast
> some barely give any light anymore


It sounds like your LED's are wired with resistors that are too small.

That's a big reason people use LED's over Cathodes. Cathodes burn out quick


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I have my LED's hooked to a 4-pin Molex at the moment so they get power directly from the PSU, but are dim compared to the Green I had before (now UV, lol)


----------



## kpoeticg

That could either be cuz the LED's have too BIG of a resistor or the particular LED's just have less MCD brightness to tthem

You can get much better LED's from electronics reseller's if you Google than you will from watercooling/modding spots. Performance-PC's has some like 4000mcd's but you can get wayyyyyyy brighter from other places.


----------



## Squashie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Guys, I want to go full water, but I have 2 Sapphire Vapor-X 6950s, so no waterblocks. How hard would it be to get someone to either trade for others or sell them for others?
> 
> Also, I'm using a RS240 XSPC kit. I hate this resevoir. Anyone want to help me with a parts list? Would always go clear tubing, since I'm going for Mayhems dye. Probably would like a tube resevoir.
> 
> Plus, I'm in a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2. Should I get another case?


You could always go with universal GPU blocks, cools good on GPU but need additional air cooling, check my build:

*BUILDLOG*


----------



## hellphyre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That could either be cuz the LED's have too BIG of a resistor or the particular LED's just have less MCD brightness to tthem
> 
> You can get much better LED's from electronics reseller's if you Google than you will from watercooling/modding spots. Performance-PC's has some like 4000mcd's but you can get wayyyyyyy brighter from other places.


I use these and they are perfect. I am sure he has other colors.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB007O1WZVK%2Fref%3Doh_details_o00_s00_i00%3Fie%3DUTF8%26psc%3D1


----------



## kpoeticg

Those are the best specs i've seen for prewired LED's. +1

I've just recently started learning about electronics so I like to wire my own nowadays for the learning experience.

Plus it gives me an excuse to use my Breadboards =P


----------



## hellphyre

if you look at my rig you can see them, i have 4 - 3mm in my cpu block and 1 - 3mm in my res.... that's it.



Super bright.


----------



## kpoeticg

That looks great. I might have to grab a 10 pack of em. I could at least use one in my Photon 170 =P. That Raystorm looks great like that too. Thanks for the pic


----------



## hellphyre

no problem, fyi the 3mm fits in the raystorm block but loosely, a little hot glue handled that. Don't use permanent glue, you can remove hot glue easy enough to switch colors or change bad lights.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Guys, I want to go full water, but I have 2 Sapphire Vapor-X 6950s, so no waterblocks. How hard would it be to get someone to either trade for others or sell them for others?
> 
> Also, I'm using a RS240 XSPC kit. I hate this resevoir. Anyone want to help me with a parts list? Would always go clear tubing, since I'm going for Mayhems dye. Probably would like a tube resevoir.
> 
> Plus, I'm in a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2. Should I get another case?


The arc midi r2 is a great mid case for wc. My current WIP is in one. If you want more space then the arc midi is not a good choice as it is quite a tight fit.

I'd buy a couple 7950s as they are a great price now. I'm using the 3 of the HIS IceQ 7950s in my WIP as well.

You May be hard pressed to sell the 6950s now.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellphyre*
> 
> if you look at my rig you can see them, i have 4 - 3mm in my cpu block and 1 - 3mm in my res.... that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> Super bright.


I did the same thing with my raystorm in my ice pick build. Made such a big difference


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellphyre*
> 
> no problem, fyi the 3mm fits in the raystorm block but loosely, a little hot glue handled that. Don't use permanent glue, you can remove hot glue easy enough to switch colors or change bad lights.


He sells the same LED's in 5mm. I'm gonna grab a 10 pack of each just to have handy for situations where i need a single LED (Like my Photon res), For a Raystorm it would be easier and cheaper just to wire up a Series a 4. You just made me like the Raystorm though. Was never a fan of it before that pic =)


----------



## hellphyre

It is a really good block. Oh, and the black cover plate can be removed so its all transparent.


----------



## kpoeticg

Ughhh life was sooo much easier an hour ago when i was trying to decide between my current Apogee Drive II and an EK Copper/Clean CSQ block....


----------



## hellphyre

Not to make your head hurt even more but... Martins Liquid Lab Review...

Pros

#1 (tied) in thermal performance
#1 (tied) in ultra low restriction
Easy mount back plate reduces the # of small parts and significantly speeds up back plate installation
Full coverage back plate provides ample MB support and protection
Very complete package, everything except barbs & clamps included
Wide barb spacing compatible with most G1/4 fittings including 3/4″ OD compression fittings
LED (Sleeved) module option, provides blue in package and an easy modified option for other colors
Two materials options (lower cost) Acetal + Acrylic Hold Down & Full Copper + Aluminum Hold Down

Cons

Mounting screw system has some loose small parts

Bottom line, best overall performing block on the i7-2600K processor to date! (9/26/11) It is the new King of 2011 generation low restriction blocks and also ties for first place thermally.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, I'm still a bit of a n00b and as such I've spent ALOT of time martins sight lol. I've probly read every letter he has typed on his website =P


----------



## Cyanix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellphyre*
> 
> Not to make your head hurt even more but... Martins Liquid Lab Review...
> 
> Pros
> 
> #1 (tied) in thermal performance
> #1 (tied) in ultra low restriction
> Easy mount back plate reduces the # of small parts and significantly speeds up back plate installation
> Full coverage back plate provides ample MB support and protection
> Very complete package, everything except barbs & clamps included
> Wide barb spacing compatible with most G1/4 fittings including 3/4″ OD compression fittings
> LED (Sleeved) module option, provides blue in package and an easy modified option for other colors
> Two materials options (lower cost) Acetal + Acrylic Hold Down & Full Copper + Aluminum Hold Down
> 
> Cons
> 
> Mounting screw system has some loose small parts
> 
> Bottom line, best overall performing block on the i7-2600K processor to date! (9/26/11) It is the new King of 2011 generation low restriction blocks and also ties for first place thermally.


That was 2 years ago.

I too bought the Raystorm upon release, and it has been replaced by a Koolance cpu-380, which is much better in every aspect imho.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyanix*
> 
> That was 2 years ago.
> 
> I too bought the Raystorm upon release, and it has been replaced by a Koolance cpu-380, which is much better in every aspect imho.


But....depending on aesthetics, the 380 doesn't look as sexy


----------



## kpoeticg

It also only comes Nickel plated


----------



## hellphyre

That is true, the review is 2 years old. Here is one from Early 2013 though. It still performs very well. The 380 is a monster however!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup


----------



## kpoeticg

sigh
Poor Phobya LOL
Wow, I wuz under the impression the 5noz had alot better performance than that.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> sigh
> Poor Phobya LOL
> Wow, I wuz under the impression the 5noz had alot better performance than that.


The 5noz was more for high flowrates than anything else. The DT sniper focused more on thermals than flowrate and performs much better than the 5noz did.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Crap... I meant sapphire HD 7950 vapor-x, not 6950


----------



## kpoeticg

I see. I thought the Sniper was more about fixing the mounting issue's with the 5noz. Thanx for clearing that up for me. I've only been into watercooling about 6 months so I've only read a limited amount about both blocks.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Finally finished my build. Going custom water-cooling was an extremely fun experience (and my ears thank me too for how silent my rig is running.

(Wish I had a DSLR >.>. Crappy point-n-shoot camera pics inc below)

Pics:





Spoiler: Another Daytime Shot

















Spoiler: Night-time Shot Through Side Window















Unfortunately, I had to downgrade my GPU to a GTX 670 4GB, which I snagged really cheap. But I think in the end, the loop was worth it over the GPU power I had with my GTX 780, and will last me until probably Maxwell considering I don't game a ton.


----------



## ForDo

hi, can a mcp355 pump strong enough to support 1 240mm thick rad, and a thin 360mm rad? thanks


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Finally finished my build. Going custom water-cooling was an extremely fun experience (and my ears thank me too for how silent my rig is running.
> 
> (Wish I had a DSLR >.>. Crappy point-n-shoot camera pics inc below)
> 
> Pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Another Daytime Shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Night-time Shot Through Side Window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I had to downgrade my GPU to a GTX 670 4GB, which I snagged really cheap. But I think in the end, the loop was worth it over the GPU power I had with my GTX 780, and will last me until probably Maxwell considering I don't game a ton.


Nice work!







Welcome to the 360 + 240 brotherhood.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> what would you guys reccommend for uv lights?
> cathodes or flexlights(LED)?


I have some phobya led uv strips. they work extremely well!


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> 
> 
> Got it from my work
> 
> And no that dont mean that i work on nvidia


Wow that's lame.


----------



## MykaAurora

Kinda think of it, I'll sure need a heck lot of fan filters for MM Ascension. And probably not going to fit all of the fan holes with radiator yet. Only some.

If I may ask, what else do I need after I buy the ascension? For example, PCIE slot cover, 5.25" bays cover, ( all those cover for if I'm not going to use it all yet ). Or, the box contains it all?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well it time to start unveiling what im trying to..

Today is the turn of the Spectracoat top coat.



And smooth as a babies bum.



The pics dont do it justice,the panel shimmers thru all the prismatic spectrum,looks awesome.
When its clearcoated and buffed,it should pop out really well

And something we all like.....
A glorious MIPS Iceforce HF block!
Last of the breed and very possibly the block i will use in this S3 build,unless i can find another then it will be going in the SR2














Now i need to ask myself,does that awesome machined retainer need painting to match the panels....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well it time to start unveiling what im trying to..
> 
> Today is the turn of the Spectracoat top coat.
> 
> 
> 
> And smooth as a babies bum.
> 
> 
> 
> The pics dont do it justice,the panel shimmers thru all the prismatic spectrum,looks awesome.
> When its clearcoated and buffed,it should pop out really well
> 
> And something we all like.....
> A glorious MIPS Iceforce HF block!
> Last of the breed and very possibly the block i will use in this S3 build,unless i can find another then it will be going in the SR2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i need to ask myself,does that awesome machined retainer need painting to match the panels....


Lookin good as always BNEG. I do love the looks of that block


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForDo*
> 
> hi, can a mcp355 pump strong enough to support 1 240mm thick rad, and a thin 360mm rad? thanks


Yes, this pump can handle that without a problem.


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone heard about this pump?





It looks to be good, similar to a D5 (Not as good) but it's half the price, now we just need to know it's reliability.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Did see them the other day on Ebay, I was wondering the same thing









Here they are about 3/4 the price of a D5, so a little less tempting. But still interesting.


----------



## hotrod717

Now that AMD has rebadged the 7970 as R9 280x, I'm hoping and wondering if EK will start manufacturing the "End Of Life" FC waterblocks like a clear acrylic-copper and the like???


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Now that AMD has rebadged the 7970 as R9 280x, I'm hoping and wondering if EK will start manufacturing the "End Of Life" FC waterblocks like a clear acrylic-copper and the like???


Sadly, AMD is not releasing a "reference 280X". Most of the boards are custom. Some are carryovers from the 7970 versions just rebadged to 280X. The Matrix 280X is a facsimile of the 7970 Matrix so the block will fit. I have yet to see if anyone will be using a reference 7970 pcb (aka reference 280x). What a crappy move by amd. They showed us a reference 280x and then decide not to sell it.

Funny how i protested this on their FB Radeon page. My post got removed within 15 minutes









Since there's no reference card, it will be up to board makers to cover these custom designs. I know EK is making a DC2T block and you can still use the DC2T 7970 block w/ the DC2T 280X V2 design (7970 DC2T clone).

In all honesty, the 280X is now a midrange card and blocks usually are prioritized to the highend spectrum. Its also cheaper to buy a reference 7970 and add a block from the many current options you have.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sadly, AMD is not releasing a "reference 280X". Most of the boards are custom. Some are carryovers from the 7970 versions just rebadged to 280X. The Matrix 280X is a facsimile of the 7970 Matrix so the block will fit. I have yet to see if anyone will be using a reference 7970 pcb (aka reference 280x). What a crappy move by amd. They showed us a reference 280x and then decide not to sell it.
> 
> Funny how i protested this on their FB Radeon page. My post got removed within 15 minutes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since there's no reference card, it will be up to board makers to cover these custom designs. I know EK is making a DC2T block and you can still use the DC2T 7970 block w/ the DC2T 280X V2 design (7970 DC2T clone).
> 
> In all honesty, the 280X is now a midrange card and blocks usually are prioritized to the highend spectrum. Its also cheaper to buy a reference 7970 and add a block from the many current options you have.


Yeah I'm puzzled by their decision as well...pretty hilarious that they removed your post so fast, lol

You are probably right regarding which ones will get water blocks...definitely will be demand driven. I think this hurts the wc block makers most and it's pretty unfortunate that it went this way. Maybe AMD will wake up and release a ref for the next gen???????


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah I'm puzzled by their decision as well...pretty hilarious that they removed your post so fast, lol
> 
> You are probably right regarding which ones will get water blocks...definitely will be demand driven. I think this hurts the wc block makers most and it's pretty unfortunate that it went this way. Maybe AMD will wake up and release a ref for the next gen???????


Who knows, two more years, again, ? Things are a little mixed up w/ them right now. Damn, almost two years since Tahiti was launched







.

I've lost interest with the 290x due to the price, lack of info, lack of effort, and stumbles by amd on the entire new range. Pre-orders was crap and ppl kept blaming the retailer not realizing amd was/is pulling the strings. @ $699 USD, 290X is too pricey for me. Titans are getting cheaper but scaling is poor in 4-way to not justify the price imho (poor enough on three-way 780/Titans). Going to stick w/ 780s until next gen Nvidia or the 290X drops in price. itching to get back to quads


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sadly, AMD is not releasing a "reference 280X". Most of the boards are custom. Some are carryovers from the 7970 versions just rebadged to 280X. The Matrix 280X is a facsimile of the 7970 Matrix so the block will fit. I have yet to see if anyone will be using a reference 7970 pcb (aka reference 280x). What a crappy move by amd. They showed us a reference 280x and then decide not to sell it.
> 
> Funny how i protested this on their FB Radeon page. My post got removed within 15 minutes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since there's no reference card, it will be up to board makers to cover these custom designs. I know EK is making a DC2T block and you can still use the DC2T 7970 block w/ the DC2T 280X V2 design (7970 DC2T clone).
> 
> In all honesty, the 280X is now a midrange card and blocks usually are prioritized to the highend spectrum. Its also cheaper to buy a reference 7970 and add a block from the many current options you have.


Actually from what I've seen, the MSI roster which is predominately reference design pcb( including TFIII), will still be. As I'm sure a few others will also use reference design pcb's. And as far as I know, ek has always made waterblocks for mid-range cards as well as top-end.
When the 290X launches and benchies come in, if it performs as well or better than a Titan, I believe you'll have a 2nd thought on laying down $700. But, hopefully within a few months, the price will have dropped and the new Matrix's and Lightnings will come out. I seem to be in the minority, in thinking more phases and higher quality components make a difference!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Actually from what I've seen, the MSI roster which is predominately reference design pcb( including TFIII), will still be. As I'm sure a few others will also use reference design pcb's. And as far as I know, ek has always made waterblocks for mid-range cards as well as top-end.
> When the 290X launches and benchies come in, if it performs as well or better than a Titan, I believe you'll have a 2nd thought on laying down $700. But, hopefully within a few months, the price will have dropped and the new Matrix's and Lightnings will come out. I seem to be in the minority, in thinking more phases and higher quality components make a difference!


I know the MSI is not a reference "280X" since its not using a revised (and better) video output connectors. But, looking at the rear of the pcb, its very similar to the reference 7970. According to the coolingconfigurator.com it is a reference design.

Also, my post never said block makers never make blocks for midrange cards, its just a less priority to them then the higher end cards


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I know the MSI is not a reference "280X" since its not using a revised (and better) video output connectors. But, looking at the rear of the pcb, its very similar to the reference 7970. According to the coolingconfigurator.com it is a reference design.
> 
> Also, my post never said block makers never make blocks for midrange cards, its just a less priority to them then the higher end cards


This is true that it's a lesser priority than the higher-end cards. The main reason for this is that people that purchase a "mainstream" graphics card are not likely to be in the market to water cool it. This is because they are looking to save a few bucks and it usually doesn't make a lot of sense to water cool one of these cards anyway. Not for performance reasons. These cards don't usually produce enough heat to warrant water cooling and therefore a company that produces water blocks isn't going to be as interested in producing water blocks for these cards. It's simple economics.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is true that it's a lesser priority than the higher-end cards. The main reason for this is that people that purchase a "mainstream" graphics card are not likely to be in the market to water cool it. This is because they are looking to save a few bucks and it usually doesn't make a lot of sense to water cool one of these cards anyway. Not for performance reasons. *These cards don't usually produce enough heat to warrant water cooling and therefore a company that produces water blocks isn't going to be as interested in producing water blocks for these cards.* It's simple economics.


QFT,

Looking at the 270x and the 280x, both with the same type of cooler, the 270X is a good 10c cooler at load then a 280x (Asus).


----------



## steelkevin

The 7870 had almost as many if not more waterblocks from EK than the more expensive cards.

The 280X Toxic performs quite surprisingly well on air, it's around a stock 780's performance so to me it does make sense to watercool them. Plus the 280X being a renamed 7970 also means it heats as much and draws as much power than the 7970s so why would it make more sense to watercool a 7970 than a 280X ? I don't understand why they're making a (several ?) block for the DCU Top when the Toxic at 10€ less seems better from the reviews. In the end I just hope they'll have a clear block for any 280X so long as it doesn't cost over 300€ (regular cards retailing for 260€).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> The 7870 had almost as many if not more waterblocks from EK than the more expensive cards.
> 
> The 280X Toxic performs quite surprisingly well on air, it's around a stock 780's performance so to me it does make sense to watercool them. Plus the 280X being a renamed 7970 also means it heats as much and draws as much power than the 7970s so why would it make more sense to watercool a 7970 than a 280X ? I don't understand why they're making a (several ?) block for the DCU Top when the Toxic at 10€ less seems better from the reviews. In the end I just hope they'll have a clear block for any 280X so long as it doesn't cost over 300€ (regular cards retailing for 260€).


7870- One model, two flavors: CSQ plexi/nickel, acetal nickel.

7970: FC-7970, CSQ & Classic, DC2T, Lightning, Matrix, FC-7950 (some 7970s used the 7950 pcb). Plexi/copper, plexi/nickel, acetal/copper, acetal/nickle; CSQ pleix/copper, CSQ plexi/nickel, CSQ acetal/copper, CSQ acetal/nickel.

The point is, the upper tier cards will be first on a waterblock maker's to do list. Some companies don't even bother with the mid-range or entry level cards and just make reference blocks for the higher end units. Obviously 280X is an exception as this is just a rebranded previous gen upper tier card (7970).

If you fallowed the news, AMD did not release a specific 280X reference design which we were all hoping it was the exact one as the reference 7970. Instead, they're leaving it to the partners to choose their boards. Some 280X are using the reference 7970 pcb and some are still using custom ones. Others are using brand new custom designs. Its up to the block maker if they want to design and implement these newer versions of these custom 280Xs (like the DC2T 280X V1).

edit: here are the 280X that are compatible w/ the reference 7970 block:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good news for MSI 280x, it is using the 7970 reference pcb design and so any reference 7970 block will fit. Sadly, it does not have the new reference 280X video output connectors (a'la DC2T 280X).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127759
> 
> edit: A few more cards that are using the reference 7970 design (per coolingconfigurator.com):
> 
> -HIS ICE-Q X also is using reference: H280XQM3G2M & H280XQMT3G2M
> 
> 
> 
> -Sapphire Dual-X (11221-00)


----------



## ginger_nuts

So it looks like I will be joining the masses.

After starting with the XSPC X20 750 then moving to the PMP-500 and now the Dual Alphacool DC-LT.

And yet to be happy with sound / performance on any of them







I have finally bought (2nd hand) a Alphacool VPP665 (vario) and XSPC Acrylic Reservoir.

Hoping this is better


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So it looks like I will be joining the masses.
> 
> After starting with the XSPC X20 750 then moving to the PMP-500 and now the Dual Alphacool DC-LT.
> 
> And yet to be happy with sound / performance on any of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have finally bought (2nd hand) a Alphacool VPP665 (vario) and XSPC Acrylic Reservoir.
> 
> Hoping this is better


D5 man,cant go wrong.


----------



## Nornam

*^ ^* This... (D5 convert)


----------



## DevilGear44

Here's my new build, EVGA Hadron (mini-ITX) with an Alphacool ST30 240mm. So sorry about the quality, my phone takes terrible pictures, and the lighting in my barracks room is a couple dirty incandescents. I put UV LEDs in the blocks to give the tubing a nice yellow glow, and no picture I could take would capture that, but it actually does look nice.

Loop testing. Top tube on the res is a temporary fill line. Plexi 240mm grill went on the fans, to match the look of the front of the case.
The lights are really a nice light purple glow (UV), but my phone thinks they're blinding hyper-pink or something.


Still installing everything and getting the hang of the system before overclocking and seeing what my (delidded) 4770K and 780 can do on a single 240mm.

Maybe one day I'll manage to take better pictures. At any rate, I'm pretty sure this is the first Hadron water build so far.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Here's my new build, EVGA Hadron (mini-ITX) with an Alphacool ST30 240mm. So sorry about the quality, my phone takes terrible pictures, and the lighting in my barracks room is a couple dirty incandescents. I put UV LEDs in the blocks to give the tubing a nice yellow glow, and no picture I could take would capture that, but it actually does look nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Loop testing. Top tube on the res is a temporary fill line. Plexi 240mm grill went on the fans, to match the look of the front of the case.
> The lights are really a nice light purple glow (UV), but my phone thinks they're blinding hyper-pink or something.
> 
> 
> Still installing everything and getting the hang of the system before overclocking and seeing what my (delidded) 4770K and 780 can do on a single 240mm.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe one day I'll manage to take better pictures. At any rate, I'm pretty sure this is the first Hadron water build so far.


And that,Ladies and Gentlemen,is what happens when you dont buy angled fittings.....

Im sure you will tidy it up tho.


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And that,Ladies and Gentlemen,is what happens when you dont buy angled fittings.....
> 
> Im sure you will tidy it up tho.


For sure. I need to figure out how I want to go about it and put a fittings shopping list together. It was all fine and dandy until I found out my case was missing about 1cm of room so I couldn't internally mount my pump.


----------



## jiJa

thats it for the moment,
after my maximus died and killed my other 2 670dc 2 ( cause of mosfet block)
i got to rma this sabertooth, gosh i think i wont by any asus stuff again.
by the way its no final loop waiting for an new mainboard after i got my rma done and sold that asus-sh it

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/59bn.jpg/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Paint is done on my CLOS3 IMPACT build....


----------



## hellphyre

Looks sweet. Always wanted to use some colorshift on a build.









Some copper going in this one?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellphyre*
> 
> Looks sweet. Always wanted to use some colorshift on a build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some copper going in this one?


Acrylic...or chromed copper again....not sure yet.


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Acrylic...or chromed copper again....not sure yet.


I vote for chromed copper


----------



## hellphyre

Ive never seen brass done but it would be different.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s9828.htm


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Back to bother you guys and gals some more,currently running a EX 360+240 rad in my loop....I have space for another 280 or 240 rad,i was just wondering if i would see a temp decrease by going with another rad,also will my D5 be good enough to run 3 rads,,,,? Just for the record temps are fine/great never been over 55c even with 37c ambient,but the fact that i have the space i'm just eager to put another rad in....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Back to bother you guys and gals some more,currently running a EX 360+240 rad in my loop....I have space for another 280 or 240 rad,i was just wondering if i would see a temp decrease by going with another rad,also will my D5 be good enough to run 3 rads,,,,? Just for the record temps are fine/great never been over 55c even with 37c ambient,but the fact that i have the space i'm just eager to put another rad in....


If not mistaken you will not see a temp drop. You will simply will have the ability to run the fans at a slower speed, whilst not losing performance. This is presuming that your blocks are at their limit of heat absorption.

If not mistaken also, the D5 should be more then able to run it all. Rads add minimal restriction. I believe.

Someone with extensive D5 knowledge like BNegative or Wermad might have a more first hand experience.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

On that same note is there any reason to run more than one 240mm on an single CPU(oc'ed of course). I'm at 60 full load right now, would more rads help me?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Back to bother you guys and gals some more,currently running a EX 360+240 rad in my loop....I have space for another 280 or 240 rad,i was just wondering if i would see a temp decrease by going with another rad,also will my D5 be good enough to run 3 rads,,,,? Just for the record temps are fine/great never been over 55c even with 37c ambient,but the fact that i have the space i'm just eager to put another rad in....


A single d5 is plenty.
As for the rad,it certainly won't hurt and it will have more overhead.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If not mistaken you will not see a temp drop. You will simply will have the ability to run the fans at a slower speed, whilst not losing performance. This is presuming that your blocks are at their limit of heat absorption.
> 
> If not mistaken also, the D5 should be more then able to run it all. Rads add minimal restriction. I believe.
> 
> Someone with extensive D5 knowledge like BNegative or Wermad might have a more first hand experience.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A single d5 is plenty.
> As for the rad,it certainly won't hurt and it will have more overhead.


Thx Guys for the quick the response,next time i pull the loop down i will add another 240/280 in the mix....


----------



## DevilGear44

Slightly better pictures...




Again, WIP - need to order more angled fittings/adapters, and get after some cable management.


----------



## szeged

glad to see a hadron build finally lol, might have been others but i probably missed them.


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> glad to see a hadron build finally lol, might have been others but i probably missed them.


When the Hydro version comes out, I suspect we'll see quite a few water builds with them.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> When the Hydro version comes out, I suspect we'll see quite a few water builds with them.


btw can you confirm if they used cheap black tape to cover up the inside like that review showed? or did they actually paint it?


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> btw can you confirm if they used cheap black tape to cover up the inside like that review showed? or did they actually paint it?


Mine didnt have tape, but the inside rear of the case by the IO was unpainted like everyone elses. Apparently, these aren't final products and were meant for reviewers I guess. The real case ships at the end of this month, and an EVGA rep said they will ship with an all-black interior. Not sure if they tweaked and fixed anything else, though.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Anyone here using a RIVE and ek blocks for the VRM, the cpu, and the southbridge and using crystal links to connect them all? I got the cpu connected to the southbridge but I cant get the VRM block connected to the CPU due to height differences. Anyone care to chime in? Or point me in the right direction. Ive spent about 60$ on various fittings trying to get this to work and failed miserably
I posted the same question in the RIVE owners thread but this thread is much more active.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Mine didnt have tape, but the inside rear of the case by the IO was unpainted like everyone elses. Apparently, these aren't final products and were meant for reviewers I guess. The real case ships at the end of this month, and an EVGA rep said they will ship with an all-black interior. Not sure if they tweaked and fixed anything else, though.


ah, well nothing a little DIY painting could cover up.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Anyone here using a RIVE and ek blocks for the VRM, the cpu, and the southbridge and using crystal links to connect them all? I got the cpu connected to the southbridge but I cant get the VRM block connected to the CPU due to height differences. Anyone care to chime in? Or point me in the right direction. Ive spent about 60$ on various fittings trying to get this to work and failed miserably
> I posted the same question in the RIVE owners thread but this thread is much more active.


Yes look at my rig and you can see how I did it


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> On that same note is there any reason to run more than one 240mm on an single CPU(oc'ed of course). I'm at 60 full load right now, would more rads help me?


What fans are you running?

-Zepp


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Yes look at my rig and you can see how I did it


Looks the same as what I am doing except I cant see in the photos what you used to even the height differences out. Do you recall what fittings you used to get them all evened out?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Anyone here using a RIVE and ek blocks for the VRM, the cpu, and the southbridge and using crystal links to connect them all? I got the cpu connected to the southbridge but I cant get the VRM block connected to the CPU due to height differences. Anyone care to chime in? Or point me in the right direction. Ive spent about 60$ on various fittings trying to get this to work and failed miserably
> I posted the same question in the RIVE owners thread but this thread is much more active.


here's a copy a and paste of a diagram I made for someone else on a previous build of mine. Should help give you an idea of fittings to use:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Here's a diagram, number coded. The figures marked "?" are 15mm Bitspower extenders. For the crystal links it's hard for me to tell while they are installed - they can vary by 2-5mm. I recommend ordering a few packs of 1,2,3 and 4 slot links.

Each number is a link to the part and you can match it to the diagram. Hope this helps.

1. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c497s1361b145

2. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2Fmessages%2Fview%2Fid%2F2733581%2Fbox%2F7762329&v=1&libId=d5292977-4305-4614-9f8f-b68d72097fe5&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.performance-pcs.com%2Fcatalog%2Findex.php%3Fmain_page%3Dproduct_info%26cPath%3D59_346_393_611_624%26products_id%3D29045&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2F&title=Private%20Message%3A%20Crystal%20Link%20config%20question%20%3A)&txt=2&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13680747822499

3. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2Fmessages%2Fview%2Fid%2F2733581%2Fbox%2F7762329&v=1&libId=d5292977-4305-4614-9f8f-b68d72097fe5&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.frozencpu.com%2Fproducts%2F12085%2Fex-tub-743%2FBitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Dual_Rotary_90_Adapter_BP-MB90R2.html%3Ftl%3Dc497s1361b145&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2F&title=Private%20Message%3A%20Crystal%20Link%20config%20question%20%3A)&txt=3&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_136807480765610

4. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2Fmessages%2Fview%2Fid%2F2733581%2Fbox%2F7762329&v=1&libId=d5292977-4305-4614-9f8f-b68d72097fe5&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.performance-pcs.com%2Fcatalog%2Findex.php%3Fmain_page%3Dproduct_info%26cPath%3D59_346_393_766%26products_id%3D27586&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2F&title=Private%20Message%3A%20Crystal%20Link%20config%20question%20%3A)&txt=4&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_136807483354611

5. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2Fmessages%2Fview%2Fid%2F2733581%2Fbox%2F7762329&v=1&libId=d5292977-4305-4614-9f8f-b68d72097fe5&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.performance-pcs.com%2Fcatalog%2Findex.php%3Fmain_page%3Dproduct_info%26cPath%3D59_346_393_766%26products_id%3D27593&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2F&title=Private%20Message%3A%20Crystal%20Link%20config%20question%20%3A)&txt=5&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_136807484842512


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx Guys for the quick the response,next time i pull the loop down i will add another 240/280 in the mix....


Adding a radiator might give you a slight drop in water temp. An easy way to do the same is to just optimise your airflow. At the moment your top rad is exhausting and in this case I can guarantee swapping the fans to intake will drop water temp.
If your bottom rad is intaking it could make a quite big difference.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> here's a copy a and paste of a diagram I made for someone else on a previous build of mine. Should help give you an idea of fittings to use:
> 
> Here's a diagram, number coded. The figures marked "?" are 15mm Bitspower extenders. For the crystal links it's hard for me to tell while they are installed - they can vary by 2-5mm. I recommend ordering a few packs of 1,2,3 and 4 slot links.
> 
> Each number is a link to the part and you can match it to the diagram. Hope this helps.
> 
> 1. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c497s1361b145
> 
> 2. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2Fmessages%2Fview%2Fid%2F2733581%2Fbox%2F7762329&v=1&libId=d5292977-4305-4614-9f8f-b68d72097fe5&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.performance-pcs.com%2Fcatalog%2Findex.php%3Fmain_page%3Dproduct_info%26cPath%3D59_346_393_611_624%26products_id%3D29045&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2F&title=Private%20Message%3A%20Crystal%20Link%20config%20question%20%3A)&txt=2&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13680747822499
> 
> 3. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2Fmessages%2Fview%2Fid%2F2733581%2Fbox%2F7762329&v=1&libId=d5292977-4305-4614-9f8f-b68d72097fe5&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.frozencpu.com%2Fproducts%2F12085%2Fex-tub-743%2FBitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Dual_Rotary_90_Adapter_BP-MB90R2.html%3Ftl%3Dc497s1361b145&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2F&title=Private%20Message%3A%20Crystal%20Link%20config%20question%20%3A)&txt=3&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_136807480765610
> 
> 4. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2Fmessages%2Fview%2Fid%2F2733581%2Fbox%2F7762329&v=1&libId=d5292977-4305-4614-9f8f-b68d72097fe5&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.performance-pcs.com%2Fcatalog%2Findex.php%3Fmain_page%3Dproduct_info%26cPath%3D59_346_393_766%26products_id%3D27586&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2F&title=Private%20Message%3A%20Crystal%20Link%20config%20question%20%3A)&txt=4&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_136807483354611
> 
> 5. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2Fmessages%2Fview%2Fid%2F2733581%2Fbox%2F7762329&v=1&libId=d5292977-4305-4614-9f8f-b68d72097fe5&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.performance-pcs.com%2Fcatalog%2Findex.php%3Fmain_page%3Dproduct_info%26cPath%3D59_346_393_766%26products_id%3D27593&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fmessages%2F&title=Private%20Message%3A%20Crystal%20Link%20config%20question%20%3A)&txt=5&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_136807484842512


Thank you so much. Ill take a look at this all and see where im going wrong.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Looks the same as what I am doing except I cant see in the photos what you used to even the height differences out. Do you recall what fittings you used to get them all evened out?


Sorry mate I'm overseas right now for work
So I can't tall you the fittings till I get back home
In 4 more days


----------



## ceskii

Hey guys, new to these parts but have been trawling through all the posts for a while. Finally dived right in and did my first custom loop about 2 months ago. Use to have a thermaltake AIO system but just didn't cut it. Built a new PC for the heck of it and here were my results.

Case: NZXT Switch 810
CPU: Intel 4770K OCed @ 4.5ghz (Has hit 5ghz but slightly unstable)
RAM: 16gb Corsair Vengeance 1866mhz
GPU: EVGA GTX 780 SC @ 1.2ghz
PSU: Cooler Master Silent Pro 1200W 80+ Gold

Cooling:
XSPC EX360 Radiator
XSPC RayStorm CPU Waterblock for Intel
Alphacool Reservoir
Koolance PMP-450 12V Variable Speed Pump with EK D5 Top
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Tubing Black
Swiftech Komodo GTX 780 Waterblock
XSPC EX240 Radiator
7 x Scythe Gentle Typhoons
2 x Corsair AF120 silents
2 x NZXT 140 case fans
Bitfenix Recon Fan controller

Let me know your thoughts


----------



## hellphyre

Ceskii, nice job. Looks clean.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Sorry mate I'm overseas right now for work
> So I can't tall you the fittings till I get back home
> In 4 more days


No problem at all man thanks for the help.


----------



## cyphon

Looks good ceskii.

would look awesomer with another GPU or two


----------



## iandroo888

my rig as it is currently. recently got a MCP655 pump so re-did my loop (new tubing). originally had Rad => pump => Res but caused a lot of bubbles and an awkward kink from pump to res..

re-did the area with the pump and made it Rad => Res => Pump. Little more tubing but no kink. no bubbles. running Pure H2O (from lab) and a silver kill coil. Had the XSPC X2O running with the MCP655 originally but now pulled it offline and using it as a res only.

had a NZXT led sleeved kit but for some odd reason, this one burned out after i plugged it in. Getting a new one tomorrow sent to me. Then i can finally light this baby up with some white LEDs :]

if only i had a newer/w/c'ed gfx too =[


----------



## szeged

whats that silver box thing?


----------



## LiquidHaus

so i finally got some shots with the lights on to share.

recently redid the loop in my 800d build.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Looks great! I'm such a fan of black tube. AMD build too, nice to see something different


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> so i finally got some shots with the lights on to share.
> 
> recently redid the loop in my 800d build.
> 
> Really nice! Looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't get enough of WC pics TY


----------



## ceskii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks good ceskii.
> 
> would look awesomer with another GPU or two


Haha totally agreed, waiting for my wallet to stop hurting in the next few months and will definitely go down that road, originally was going to sli 770s but thought may as well go one up

just really hope they still have the waterblock in stock


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> so i finally got some shots with the lights on to share.
> 
> recently redid the loop in my 800d build.


Black tubing looks good. Contrasts well with the fittings.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> whats that silver box thing?


exhausting fan. helps get rid of air in that area.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> exhausting fan. helps get rid of air in that area.


ah thanks, i had 0 idea what it coulda been from that angle lol.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ah thanks, i had 0 idea what it coulda been from that angle lol.


yeah. the fan pulls air in and exhausts thru the back. helps since theres not much circulation within the case. and the video card is in that area. may consider removing it if i ever get a gfx with waterblock and chipset blocks.. dont wanna block the view XD


----------



## air tree

Oh i just found a place to get some bendable copper tubing, And it's the perfect Od and Id.

http://www.orphanespresso.com/12mm-Soft-Copper-Tubing--sold-by-the-foot_p_3962.html

Now should i get it nickel plated or chrome plated when i bend it for my build?

What is cheaper do you guys think.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Oh i just found a place to get some bendable copper tubing, And it's the perfect Od and Id.
> 
> http://www.orphanespresso.com/12mm-Soft-Copper-Tubing--sold-by-the-foot_p_3962.html
> 
> Now should i get it nickel plated or chrome plated when i bend it for my build?
> 
> What is cheaper do you guys think.


platinum plated and diamond encrusted


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Oh i just found a place to get some bendable copper tubing, And it's the perfect Od and Id.
> 
> http://www.orphanespresso.com/12mm-Soft-Copper-Tubing--sold-by-the-foot_p_3962.html
> 
> Now should i get it nickel plated or chrome plated when i bend it for my build?
> 
> What is cheaper do you guys think.


Chrome has a mirror finish,nickel needs work to make is mirror...its totally up to you.

Check my sig for a bending guide


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> platinum plated and diamond encrusted


Hmm, Not high end enough for me on second thought. Maybe pure gold tubing with Rubys, Diamonds, And emeralds.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Hmm, Not high end enough for me on second thought. Maybe pure gold tubing with Rubys, Diamonds, And emeralds.


now youre thinking.


----------



## alpenwasser

Well then, it's about time I joined up if I may say so.








Sadly I do not have documentation about my earliest forays into water cooling (~2001-ish),
so my current rig will have to do. It will be serving as my personal rig until HELIOS (log) is up
and running, then it will be our HTPC/server/BOINC machine.

It has been named _Zwieback Exceeding Useful Specifications_, or








for short.

The major mods are:

replaced the back panel with a new one in order to fit a 360 radiator at the back
(no need for dedicated GPU in this rig)
took the PSU apart for some proper sleeving and made an extra cutout into the
PSU housing for better cable routing
relocated the PSU to the front where the 5.25" bays used to reside
For those interested in the building process, you can check that out here.

Looks almost like stock, doesn't it?

(click image for full res)


Haha! But it is not!









(click image for full res)


I must say I rather like how the 24 pin turned out (cable lacing tutorial for those who wish to
know how to do this).

(click image for full res)


The back side:

(click image for full res)


And a close-up of the CPU area:



Overall I'm pretty happy with the rig, although considering ZFS is better run with ECC memory I
would probably have chosen different hardware if I'd known I was going to run ZFS (it became
production-ready on Linux shortly before this build was up and running, and after all the parts
had already been bought). Ah well, Xeon boards do tend to be less smexy, so there's at least
that. Plus, this rig actually got featured on Fractal Design's Facebook page.

So yeah, it's been good to me so far.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Well then, it's about time I joined up if I may say so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly I do not have documentation about my earliest forays into water cooling (~2001-ish),
> so my current rig will have to do. It will be serving as my personal rig until HELIOS (log) is up
> and running, then it will be our HTPC/server/BOINC machine.
> 
> It has been named _Zwieback Exceeding Useful Specifications_, or
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for short.
> 
> The major mods are:
> 
> replaced the back panel with a new one in order to fit a 360 radiator at the back
> (no need for dedicated GPU in this rig)
> took the PSU apart for some proper sleeving and made an extra cutout into the
> PSU housing for better cable routing
> relocated the PSU to the front where the 5.25" bays used to reside
> For those interested in the building process, you can check that out here.
> 
> Looks almost like stock, doesn't it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (click image for full res)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha! But it is not!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (click image for full res)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say I rather like how the 24 pin turned out (cable lacing tutorial for those who wish to
> know how to do this).
> 
> (click image for full res)
> 
> 
> The back side:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (click image for full res)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a close-up of the CPU area:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I'm pretty happy with the rig, although considering ZFS is better run with ECC memory I
> would probably have chosen different hardware if I'd known I was going to run ZFS (it became
> production-ready on Linux shortly before this build was up and running, and after all the parts
> had already been bought). Ah well, Xeon boards do tend to be less smexy, so there's at least
> that. Plus, this rig actually got featured on Fractal Design's Facebook page.
> 
> So yeah, it's been good to me so far.


Welcome to the party Alpenwasser,good to see you make it over!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Back to bother you guys and gals some more,currently running a EX 360+240 rad in my loop....I have space for another 280 or 240 rad,i was just wondering if i would see a temp decrease by going with another rad,also will my D5 be good enough to run 3 rads,,,,? Just for the record temps are fine/great never been over 55c even with 37c ambient,but the fact that i have the space i'm just eager to put another rad in....


55C in 37C ambient? That just not possible....


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Welcome to the party Alpenwasser,good to see you make it over!


Hehe, it was about time methinks.


----------



## szeged

cant decide if i wanna grab an EK supremacy cpu block over the xspc raystorm i currently have, mostly for looks, but on the performance side, what do you guys think? worth the money?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> cant decide if i wanna grab an EK supremacy cpu block over the xspc raystorm i currently have, mostly for looks, but on the performance side, what do you guys think? worth the money?


The supremacy is a great block and will perform better than the raystorm. What temps you have now?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The supremacy is a great block and will perform better than the raystorm. What temps you have now?


my 4770k @ 4.8ghz with 1.25v pulls about 85 to 87c full load with intel burn test, i really need to delid this thing already lol.


----------



## ledzepp3

Get the Supremacy so that way you can run it bare against the die.

-Zepp


----------



## szeged

yeah i might aswell







itll look wierd with 4 EK gpu blocks and then a xspc block on the cpu anyways









also, performance pcs has the rigid acrylic and fittings i need, but not the waterblocks i need.

frozencpu has the waterblocks i need but not the acrylic and fittings i need.

yay shipping fees.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah i might aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> itll look wierd with 4 EK gpu blocks and then a xspc block on the cpu anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also, performance pcs has the rigid acrylic and fittings i need, but not the waterblocks i need.
> 
> frozencpu has the waterblocks i need but not the acrylic and fittings i need.
> 
> yay shipping fees.


My word, what are you working on man? What do you need 4 cards for?


----------



## szeged

planning a dual system case labs build full rigid acrylic on both sides, 4770k/asus vi extreme with 4x titans on one side, 3930k/asus iv extreme with 4x titans on the other side. Was gonna go with hydro copper blocks from evga on all the titans, but really they arent worth the extra price to me. Couldnt decide if i wanted to go with xspc or EK cpu block to match lol, but might aswell


----------



## bomberjun

all rigid...



just ran out of fittings, will continue it once they arrive.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> 
> 
> my rig as it is currently. recently got a MCP655 pump so re-did my loop (new tubing). originally had Rad => pump => Res but caused a lot of bubbles and an awkward kink from pump to res..
> 
> re-did the area with the pump and made it Rad => Res => Pump. Little more tubing but no kink. no bubbles. running Pure H2O (from lab) and a silver kill coil. Had the XSPC X2O running with the MCP655 originally but now pulled it offline and using it as a res only.
> 
> had a NZXT led sleeved kit but for some odd reason, this one burned out after i plugged it in. Getting a new one tomorrow sent to me. Then i can finally light this baby up with some white LEDs :]
> 
> if only i had a newer/w/c'ed gfx too =[


Nice build. I like it.







I'm using ancient GPU too but still works well in games at high settings.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> planning a dual system case labs build full rigid acrylic on both sides, 4770k/asus vi extreme with 4x titans on one side, 3930k/asus iv extreme with 4x titans on the other side. Was gonna go with hydro copper blocks from evga on all the titans, but really they arent worth the extra price to me. Couldnt decide if i wanted to go with xspc or EK cpu block to match lol, but might aswell


holy crap....


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> planning a dual system case labs build full rigid acrylic on both sides, 4770k/asus vi extreme with 4x titans on one side, 3930k/asus iv extreme with 4x titans on the other side. Was gonna go with hydro copper blocks from evga on all the titans, but really they arent worth the extra price to me. Couldnt decide if i wanted to go with xspc or EK cpu block to match lol, but might aswell


which case you are looking at that support both motherboard in one case? I am thinking to build 2 system in one case but I don't know where to buy it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> planning a dual system case labs build full rigid acrylic on both sides, 4*770k/asus vi extreme with 4x titans on one side, 3930k/asus iv extreme with 4x titans on the other side.* Was gonna go with hydro copper blocks from evga on all the titans, but really they arent worth the extra price to me. Couldnt decide if i wanted to go with xspc or EK cpu block to match lol, but might aswell


Why?

A vulgar waste of money tbh.


----------



## szeged

http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-tx10-d/ is the one im going with, expensive but worth it.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why?
> 
> A vulgar waste of money tbh.


Consider it an economic stimulus package.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why?
> 
> A vulgar waste of money tbh.


thats exactly what it is


----------



## friskiest

I changed my rig to e22 acrylic tubing.
The TJ11 was hard to work with, but a fun challenge


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thats exactly what it is


Your local power company is going to love you!









Pictures when it is done please.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Your local power company is going to love you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures when it is done please.


will have plenty of pics up when the planning phase ends and i can finally start building


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> planning a dual system case labs build full rigid acrylic on both sides, 4770k/asus vi extreme with 4x titans on one side, 3930k/asus iv extreme with 4x titans on the other side. Was gonna go with hydro copper blocks from evga on all the titans, but really they arent worth the extra price to me. Couldnt decide if i wanted to go with xspc or EK cpu block to match lol, but might aswell


Wait... wut? 8 Titans over two beast system specs... and you're worried about the block cost?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Wait... wut? 8 Titans over two beast system specs... and you're worried about the block cost?


sorry i should have been a bit more clear, the EK blocks are way better than the hydro coppers when it comes to vrm cooling, so i decided to get those instead, while saving a bit of money


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Wait... wut? 8 Titans over two beast system specs... and you're worried about the block cost?


Lol I was thinking the same thing lol....$8k just on gpu definitely puts you in the 'money is no object' category
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sorry i should have been a bit more clear, the EK blocks are way better than the hydro coppers when it comes to vrm cooling, so i decided to get those instead, while saving a bit of money


Makes more sense


----------



## luciddreamer124

Must see this build log when you start!

Although, even if I had unlimited $ I would still only go tri-SLI personally. I think it looks better.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I changed my rig to e22 acrylic tubing.
> The TJ11 was hard to work with, but a fun challenge


That was my plan for my next build
same case, same fittings, same coolant and tube type
any full picture of the case you can share?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice build. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using ancient GPU too but still works well in games at high settings.


right? tho the other day, it freaked out and i thought it died.. but it turned back on... so >_> maybe its on its way to the grave... xD 4 yrs old now i can play BF4 pretty well still so its ok i guess lol

at least ur 5870 is newer than mine ! XD i think its the hd4870 that matches my gtx260 =X


----------



## B NEGATIVE

This is why i dont use Mayhems....now all copper rads dont work with his product and its Alphacools fault??!!??!



Jesus wept......


----------



## wermad

I ran Mayhems deep blue and emerald green w/ three Mosta 360s, one 240, and three 480s. Neither color broke down. I don't get this. It may just be an isolated issue.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I ran Mayhems deep blue and emerald green w/ three Mosta 360s, one 240, and three 480s. Neither color broke down. I don't get this. It may just be an isolated issue.


Its not...by a long shot.

Its the answer that Mayhems gave,Alphacool rads are to blame and they dont work well with his product?
What rubbish.


----------



## Sunreeper

Yeah I've heard stories of mayhem doing that a lot. Too bad there's no other manufacturer with a line like the pastel line


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not...by a long shot.
> 
> Its the answer that Mayhems gave,*Alphacool rads are to blame and they dont work well with his product*?
> What rubbish.


NO!!!! My nice new build, is all Alphacool







Well mind you, I was never happy with Alphacool's quality either


----------



## wermad

All those who got upside down alphacool logos on their rads, please direct the blame on Mayhems dye


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> All those who got upside down alphacool logos on their rads, please direct the blame on Mayhems dye


Bwahahahahahahahahaaaaaa!

Wermad,have a cookie.


----------



## wermad




----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not...by a long shot.
> 
> Its the answer that Mayhems gave,*Alphacool rads are to blame and they dont work well with his product*?
> What rubbish.
> 
> 
> 
> NO!!!! My nice new build, is all Alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well mind you, I was never happy with Alphacool's quality either
Click to expand...

Mayhem's putting the blame on the rads even though there's a problem with the coolant. You won't have any problems with your rad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not...by a long shot.
> 
> Its the answer that Mayhems gave,*Alphacool rads are to blame and they dont work well with his product*?
> What rubbish.
> 
> 
> 
> NO!!!! My nice new build, is all Alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well mind you, I was never happy with Alphacool's quality either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mayhem's putting the blame on the rads even though there's a problem with the coolant. You won't have any problems with your rad.
Click to expand...

Wrong tubes....wrong res and now wrong rad.....the words 'not fit for purpose' spring to mind....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is why i dont use Mayhems....now all copper rads dont work with his product and its Alphacools fault??!!??!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jesus wept......


Hrrmmm...why would all copper cause a problem versus copper+brass not causing a problem?

Also, do we know if the guy flushed the rads out before using and/or if their pH is off in the fluid? I've seen rad flux cause some color issues with his products and unbalanced pH can do weird things as well.

For example: I've seen the white turn yellow because of rad flux, but after draining and filtering it, it was as white as it started out.


----------



## wermad

I know what the problem is, he's not running pcie 3.0. Everyone knows pcie 2.0 will turn your dye into gunk. I shall accept my peace prize now...









Seriously, I think their (and any company's) customer service needs to take things slowly and work with the customer rather then jumping too quickly to unusual conclusions.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is why i dont use Mayhems....now all copper rads dont work with his product and its Alphacools fault??!!??!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jesus wept......
> 
> 
> 
> Hrrmmm...why would all copper cause a problem versus copper+brass not causing a problem?
> 
> Also, do we know if the guy flushed the rads out before using and/or if their pH is off in the fluid? I've seen rad flux cause some color issues with his products and unbalanced pH can do weird things as well.
> 
> For example: I've seen the white turn yellow because of rad flux, but after draining and filtering it, it was as white as it started out.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. Sounded like he didn't do the necessary prep work to ensure a clean loop.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is why i dont use Mayhems....now all copper rads dont work with his product and its Alphacools fault??!!??!
> 
> 
> 
> Jesus wept......


lol i saw that XD i loled


----------



## steelkevin

For starters I've never seen mayhems himself openly blame another product.
Secondly, even if that was mayhems himself answering he never said something was wrong with Alphacool's rads. He just said they didn't work well with his coolant. If I say *insert food here* doesn't work well with *insert more food here* it doesn't mean either is bad. It just means the mix of both are.

From what I've read it would have to be caused by the person's PH. And if mayhem had actually had word of it he would've had him checked his ph and if the coolant was really to blame he would've sent him some more for free and asked if he could send them the faulty product.

PS: I spent way too much time trying to find delicious food that doesn't mix and it just made me really hungry and full of ideas that would actually work well x)


----------



## wermad

Well, this doesn't explain loops like mine where I'm running three copper gpu and one copper cpu block. Just poor handling of customer service. Rather then working with the customer, their turning this against the customer. I know customer service. Defending your company and/or product is a natural reaction, but take a step back, put yourself in the customers shoes, and think this out rationally, even if your product/company is at fault.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> For starters I've never seen mayhems himself openly blame another product.
> Secondly, even if that was mayhems himself answering he never said something was wrong with Alphacool's rads. He just said they didn't work well with his coolant. If I say *insert food here* doesn't work well with *insert more food here* it doesn't mean either is bad. It just means the mix of both are.
> 
> From what I've read it would have to be caused by the person's PH. And if mayhem had actually had word of it he would've had him checked his ph and if the coolant was really to blame he would've sent him some more for free and asked if he could send them the faulty product.
> 
> PS: I spent way too much time trying to find delicious food that doesn't mix and it just made me really hungry and full of ideas that would actually work well x)


Like peanut butter and chocolate...wait a minute, that's delicious!


----------



## LiquidHaus

i ran the emerald green dye with distilled for about 10 months and the dye left green residue everywhere. not sure if it was normal but it was a pain to clean. dye ended up fading a lot as well. now i just run regular distilled with no dye. still, its only the first time i tried anything with mayhems. i'm willing to try again.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> i ran the emerald green dye with distilled for about 10 months and the dye left green residue everywhere. not sure if it was normal but it was a pain to clean. dye ended up fading a lot as well. now i just run regular distilled with no dye. still, its only the first time i tried anything with mayhems. i'm willing to try again.


Yup, this happened to my stuff too. Pretty common though most wipes or cleans of easily. My old DD M6 cpu block had some gnarly staining inside and no matter what there was still some left over. Could have been the poor plating/prepping done for the inside (it was pitted). Copper blocks, a good clean and some Brasso (or soda or ketchup) and they're shiny. The plexi can get a little stained but a good scrub and they're good.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> i ran the emerald green dye with distilled for about 10 months and the dye left green residue everywhere. not sure if it was normal but it was a pain to clean. dye ended up fading a lot as well. now i just run regular distilled with no dye. still, its only the first time i tried anything with mayhems. i'm willing to try again.


a dye is a dye. It is going to dye anything that it can for the most part. If there is a residue present, then it will dye it, which would remove the intensity of the dye from the fluid. Where was the residue and what did it look like? If it was chalky and in the tubes, then that is probably plasticizer from the tubes.


----------



## GhostDog99

Lol it is not the Rad
I have Alphacool Rad with mayhems red
And I was having the same problem I found out that
The problem is the Red coolant dos something to the tubes
And that changes the coolant
After I Chang my tubes to Acrylic tubs no more problem
Now with the coolant for more than 6 months and it is still same beautiful red


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> For starters I've never seen mayhems himself openly blame another product.
> Secondly, even if that was mayhems himself answering he never said something was wrong with Alphacool's rads. He just said they didn't work well with his coolant. If I say *insert food here* doesn't work well with *insert more food here* it doesn't mean either is bad. It just means the mix of both are.
> 
> From what I've read it would have to be caused by the person's PH. And if mayhem had actually had word of it he would've had him checked his ph and if the coolant was really to blame he would've sent him some more for free and asked if he could send them the faulty product.
> 
> PS: I spent way too much time trying to find delicious food that doesn't mix and it just made me really hungry and full of ideas that would actually work well x)


PH.....the default answer.

But thats not what Mick blamed,he specifically blamed Alphacool rads for its all copper construction. No mention of PH at all.

Anyone can see that blaming copper when 90% of your loop is copper in one form or another is just pathetic.
Im for a good looking loop but this is ridiculous.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup, this happened to my stuff too. Pretty common though most wipes or cleans of easily. My old DD M6 cpu block had some gnarly staining inside and no matter what there was still some left over. Could have been the poor plating/prepping done for the inside (it was pitted). Copper blocks, a good clean and some Brasso (or soda or ketchup) and they're shiny. The plexi can get a little stained but a good scrub and they're good.


yeah I may just buy a couple bottles of coca cola and run it thru the system before grabbing another 7970 to completely clean the system. I got XSPC, Heatkiller, and EK blocks so i'd like to think they're in good shape. the reservoirs were annoying to scrub out though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> a dye is a dye. It is going to dye anything that it can for the most part. If there is a residue present, then it will dye it, which would remove the intensity of the dye from the fluid. Where was the residue and what did it look like? If it was chalky and in the tubes, then that is probably plasticizer from the tubes.


it was indeed aided by a small bit of plasticizer that my tubing created. but I was glad about the small amount of plasticizer, always comparing to how other people's experiences are on OCN.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> For starters I've never seen mayhems himself openly blame another product.
> Secondly, even if that was mayhems himself answering he never said something was wrong with Alphacool's rads. He just said they didn't work well with his coolant. If I say *insert food here* doesn't work well with *insert more food here* it doesn't mean either is bad. It just means the mix of both are.
> 
> From what I've read it would have to be caused by the person's PH. And if mayhem had actually had word of it he would've had him checked his ph and if the coolant was really to blame he would've sent him some more for free and asked if he could send them the faulty product.
> 
> PS: I spent way too much time trying to find delicious food that doesn't mix and it just made me really hungry and full of ideas that would actually work well x)


But he's blaming the alphacool rads because they are completely made out of copper. That doesn't make any sense considering waterblocks can be made completely out of water too. He's just shifting the blame onto something else.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I guess the very old saying

"If you want colour, use coloured tubing. If you want performance use water"

comes true once again.


----------



## derickwm

Apparently you actually get ever so slightly better temps with ice dragon


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Apparently you actually get ever so slightly better temps with ice dragon


at 80c+ fluid temp maybe.....


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I know what the problem is, he's not running pcie 3.0. Everyone knows pcie 2.0 will turn your dye into gunk. I shall accept my peace prize now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, I think their (and any company's) customer service needs to take things slowly and work with the customer rather then jumping too quickly to unusual conclusions.


I must be over tired or something but I seen your post and could not stop laughing, I think I need a nap!








up to you good sir


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Apparently you actually get ever so slightly better temps with ice dragon


ice dragon is okay


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Apparently you actually get ever so slightly better temps with ice dragon


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> at 80c+ fluid temp maybe.....


Yes, Ice Dragon is better at high temps, but is not as good at the operating temps you see in PC cooling.
Mayhems Pastel is a diluted version of Ice Dragon.

On the same front, Mayhem recently put out some preliminary tests in his thread on a new fluid he has been working on that has better heat transfer than pure water at the operating temps we see in PCs, however, it is no where near done. Will be interesting to see the results when the fluid is fine tuned and is ready for production.


----------



## Joyride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> ice dragon is okay


What color is that coolant in the system on the right?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joyride*
> 
> What color is that coolant in the system on the right?


Looks like Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing Clear and just distilled water. I could be wrong...


----------



## air tree

What would be a good coolant for copper pipes then? Just visable in my blocks and res of course.

It's either up to Acrylic and copper pipes chromed.

I'm thinking purple coolant. Too bad i'm thinking of using copper pipes because mayhems purple is just beautiful.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> at 80c+ fluid temp maybe.....


It also stains nickel and PVC tubing horribly. I haven't had great experiences with undiluted IDC.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> What would be a good coolant for copper pipes then? Just visable in my blocks and res of course.
> 
> It's either up to Acrylic and copper pipes chromed.
> 
> I'm thinking purple coolant. Too bad i'm thinking of using copper pipes because mayhems purple is just beautiful.


Pure water with silver kill coil.


----------



## ledzepp3

What's a good liquid that's white to run in acrylic? I've never really thought about it until now.... I'd be running all nickel EK blocks









-Zepp


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> What's a good liquid that's white to run in acrylic? I've never really thought about it until now.... I'd be running all nickel EK blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


human milk i find to be best


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> human milk i find to be best


That is more of a cream/yellow color than white.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> What's a good liquid that's white to run in acrylic? I've never really thought about it until now.... I'd be running all nickel EK blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


I'm pretty partial to the Mayhem's Ice White Pastel..


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> planning a dual system case labs build full rigid acrylic on both sides, 4770k/asus vi extreme with 4x titans on one side, 3930k/asus iv extreme with 4x titans on the other side. Was gonna go with hydro copper blocks from evga on all the titans, but really they arent worth the extra price to me. Couldnt decide if i wanted to go with xspc or EK cpu block to match lol, but might aswell


I wish I could excrete bullions for such a system.


----------



## GhostDog99

I'm Using Ice Dragon in my Snow Shadow Rig

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6732.jpg.html


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joyride*
> 
> What color is that coolant in the system on the right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Looks like Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing Clear and just distilled water. I could be wrong...


its just distilled with the emerald mayhems dye. tubing is indeed advanced lrt.

moar pictures! this is a gallery thread after all...

still working on this little guy...
needs a gpu that'll fit. im thinking just a 660ti, needs to be short.


----------



## iandroo888

finally.. a working NZXT sleeved led kit =X what u think?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finally.. a working NZXT sleeved led kit =X what u think?


ohhhhhhh that looks good. that looks really good.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finally.. a working NZXT sleeved led kit =X what u think?


Looks absolutely fantastic!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> 
> 
> finally.. a working NZXT sleeved led kit =X what u think?


That looks great!


----------



## DevilGear44

Pulled the trigger on a MCP35X with acrylic top, and a 40mm Bitspower res. This loop will be 100% internal eventually, dammit!


----------



## Ashuiegi

i finished to upgrade my first custom watercooling loop

it s in a hafx , with a asus rog hero and i5 4670k , hd 7970 matrix.
the coolant is some mayhem pastel sunset yellow with a tiny bit of red dye.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> i finished to upgrade my first custom watercooling loop
> 
> it s in a hafx , with a asus rog hero and i5 4670k , hd 7970 matrix.
> the coolant is some mayhem pastel sunset yellow with a tiny bit of red dye.


How's the Raidr..?


----------



## Ashuiegi

well frankly i can't feel any difference between the raidr and a corsair force gs 240 gb , but i ve yet to play with some feature like hybrid disk and ramdisk as cach for the raidr . with the os on it , i can start windows 8 in under 10 sec with all the bios setting right.
at the same time i did change from windows 7 to 8 and from p67 sabretooth- i52500k to maximus hero- 4670k and this raidr have been back and forth between the 2 build and 2 OS so i don't have a good reference.
it feel sturdy and solid , it look awesome in your case but it s running a little hot , much more then a traditional 2,5 ssd
the sad thing is that the underside is magnificent and hidden in most case , the back plate is nice too but ,....
i 've to put my pheobus sound card back in here too , ....

on that matter i have a question , why are all pcie card basically upside down ? , why don't they put the component and cooler on top instead of having the heat rising in the pcb ? it would look better , it will be better for heat dissipation , i don't understand why they leave it the way it is now ,....


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is why i dont use Mayhems....now all copper rads dont work with his product and its Alphacools fault??!!??!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jesus wept......










number 1 rule. ALWAYS go by the 'vessel' warranty and if unsure ask them.

over 25 years in the motor game dealing with people using and filling up with whatever they like. ' its the same thing' or 'it says on the bollte i can'

i always laugh when i tell them that there $4 bottle just cost them $4000 to replace everything it stuffed.


----------



## Idef1x

Not much has happened since my last post, but since it has been a while I thought I would post a few recent pictures.

I don't remeber when I last did an update, but I have removed the 120 radiator and moved back to distilled and clear tubing (which is Masterkleer, and still seems quite transparent after around ½ year of use btw). I also added the ASUS wireless AC card recently. I hope you like it.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> well frankly i can't feel any difference between the raidr and a corsair force gs 240 gb , but i ve yet to play with some feature like hybrid disk and ramdisk as cach for the raidr . with the os on it , i can start windows 8 in under 10 sec with all the bios setting right.
> at the same time i did change from windows 7 to 8 and from p67 sabretooth- i52500k to maximus hero- 4670k and this raidr have been back and forth between the 2 build and 2 OS so i don't have a good reference.
> it feel sturdy and solid , it look awesome in your case but it s running a little hot , much more then a traditional 2,5 ssd
> the sad thing is that the underside is magnificent and hidden in most case , the back plate is nice too but ,....
> i 've to put my pheobus sound card back in here too , ....
> 
> on that matter i have a question , why are all pcie card basically upside down ? , why don't they put the component and cooler on top instead of having the heat rising in the pcb ? it would look better , it will be better for heat dissipation , i don't understand why they leave it the way it is now ,....


RAIDR is meant for motherboard like the X48 or X58 that don't have SATA6GB ports and/or enough bandwidth to handle SSDs in RAID0, not for modern motherboards as it is just essentially a waste. This has been stated by ASUS. Therefore it is better to just grab 2 SSDs, and RAID0 them. As this will be faster and cheaper.

Also why buy a Phoebus


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> RAIDR is meant for motherboard like the X48 or X58 that don't have SATA6GB ports and/or enough bandwidth to handle SSDs in RAID0, not for modern motherboards as it is just essentially a waste. This has been stated by ASUS. Therefore it is better to just grab 2 SSDs, and RAID0 them. As this will be faster and cheaper.
> 
> Also why buy a Phoebus


All of this


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> its just distilled with the emerald mayhems dye. tubing is indeed advanced lrt.
> 
> moar pictures! this is a gallery thread after all...
> 
> still working on this little guy...
> needs a gpu that'll fit. im thinking just a 660ti, needs to be short.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!


Evga's 760? It's way tiny.


----------



## ToothBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> its just distilled with the emerald mayhems dye. tubing is indeed advanced lrt.
> 
> moar pictures! this is a gallery thread after all...
> 
> still working on this little guy...
> needs a gpu that'll fit. im thinking just a 660ti, needs to be short.


a 670 is much shorter than your average gpu, when watercooled: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721936


----------



## defiler2k

So I'm getting back on the horse after my wife having our first born last week and keeping my rig off for over a week.

I have to replace my tubing since the aurora particles stuck to the tubing and the tubing is ruined. Besides I did what I was planning with the rig running aurora.

Any advice as to how to clean-up the rads and other components on the loop? I was planning on running a couple of loops filled with Primochill sysprep, also what is the best performing coolant out there? Initially I was running Distilled Water but I had issues with my XSPC components and moved to coolant. Now I swapped out my XSPC components (save for the fittings) for EK components but I want to make sure I dont have corrosion or algage issues on my loop. I noticed that thermal performance was 5-15C better on water vs coolant and I want to make sure I use something that still has the anti corrosion protection and anti algae.

Im going to use black tubing for the loop so coolant color is not an issue, I will still have a tube reservoir and I was thinking on upgrading to a FrozenQ or the waterfall reservoirs to the loop and since Im planning to ad a 3rd card to the mix Im going to split my loop (one for Mobo + CPU and one for the GPUS).


----------



## Maximus Knight

Under 10sec boot time with win8 on Raidr?
My 840 Pro boots under 10 too on win7 :]
Gotta say it looks slick tho


----------



## DarthBaggins

^same here w/ my 840 pro


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is why i dont use Mayhems....now all copper rads dont work with his product and its Alphacools fault??!!??!
> 
> 
> 
> Jesus wept......


Mayhem posted some notes on his fluid with the Copper in his thread today:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/3720#post_20990037*

Looks like it should be fine assuming you are prepping your loop appropriately before use


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, right after that akira749 posted that the same thing happened to him even though he flushed thoroughly beforehand. I have all Alphacool rads and don't know what to do now. Guess I should be happy since i haven't bought cooant yet =\


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PH.....the default answer.
> 
> But thats not what *Mick* blamed,he specifically blamed Alphacool rads for its all copper construction. No mention of PH at all.
> 
> Anyone can see that blaming copper when 90% of your loop is copper in one form or another is just pathetic.
> Im for a good looking loop but this is ridiculous.


Yeah, well maybe, just maybe, it's the default answer because it's the most common issue.

He didn't even bother posting proof that Mick himself told him anything. Actually, he didn't mention Mick at all.
If you go to the mayhems thread you'll see an explanation on the last page. He isn't saying Alphacool rads are crap nor was the person who that random FaceBook user was in contact with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> But he's blaming the alphacool rads because they are completely made out of copper. That doesn't make any sense considering waterblocks can be made completely out of water too. He's just shifting the blame onto something else.


"He"s blaming the rads because that's the info "he" worked with.

Some of you are making it sound almost as if that guy rang Mick on his phone and Mick said "Alphacool rads are the problem. They of poor quality. Throw them away, get something proper and don't you dare ever doubt my product again or I'll ram my truck through your front door" and hang up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much has happened since my last post, but since it has been a while I thought I would post a few recent pictures.
> 
> I don't remeber when I last did an update, but I have removed the 120 radiator and moved back to distilled and clear tubing (which is Masterkleer, and still seems quite transparent after around ½ year of use btw). I also added the ASUS wireless AC card recently. I hope you like it.


I've always loved water cooled builds with those cases and this one doesn't disapoint one bit, congratulations


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PH.....the default answer.
> 
> But thats not what *Mick* blamed,he specifically blamed Alphacool rads for its all copper construction. No mention of PH at all.
> 
> Anyone can see that blaming copper when 90% of your loop is copper in one form or another is just pathetic.
> Im for a good looking loop but this is ridiculous.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, well maybe, just maybe, it's the default answer because it's the most common issue.
> 
> He didn't even bother posting proof that Mick himself told him anything. Actually, he didn't mention Mick at all.
> If you go to the mayhems thread you'll see an explanation on the last page. He isn't saying Alphacool rads are crap nor was the person who that random FaceBook user was in contact with.
Click to expand...

Ask Mick to tell you how to PH test distilled water.

He didnt post proof because he wasn't asked to.
Mayhems is Mick.
Read the middle post by the OP,it clearly says Mayhem is blaming the Alphacool rad for the colour change,even his FB post blames a 'certain' manufacturer.


----------



## Ashuiegi

i got the raidr because i had a good price on a damaged open box .was cheaper then 2 sdd ,... plus it comes with good application such as hybrid disk and some sdd management tools , i got it for something like 50 bucks more then a corsair force 240 gb
i got the phoebus because on board audio is just crap , i wanted a black good looking sound card and the noise reducing function works very well , you can watch tv and skype with the other person hearing nothing of the tv.
no ways i would put a green pcb ugly cheap sound card in my build and i dont like the creative at all
it s like for screen resolution and mechanical keyboard , once you have try sound card you can't go back to crappy on board audio


----------



## kkorky

From this:



To this :



To this: (proper plating job)



From this:



To thisproper plating job)



For added effect also this:





And finally this for added measure which i got a few hours ago:



I may do a build log.


----------



## Solonowarion

Nice man.


----------



## RickRockerr

I have strange problem with Laing DDC 3.25 18W pump. When I turn computer on pump starts up normally, but when I wake it from sleep mode the pump doesn't start up until i get BSOD (~30sec.)
Temps never raise over 60 but I get BSOD because pump isn't running. I tried to fix this issue by connecting the pump to molex cable instead of MB 3pin but there is no difference.
This is what I did:


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I have strange problem with Laing DDC 3.25 18W pump. When I turn computer on pump starts up normally, but when I wake it from sleep mode the pump doesn't start up until i get BSOD (~30sec.)
> Temps never raise over 60 but I get BSOD because pump isn't running. I tried to fix this issue by connecting the pump to molex cable instead of MB 3pin but there is no difference.
> This is what I did:


It sounds like a power issue at start up. I had a customer that had a similar issue not too long ago and he resolved by using a higher wattage power supply. Let me know if you're able to try a higher wattage power supply and if this resolves your issue.


----------



## Ashuiegi

what about other molex and 3 pins devices such as cathodes or fans ?do they start when comming out of sleep on the same port ? is it only your pump ?


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It sounds like a power issue at start up. I had a customer that had a similar issue not too long ago and he resolved by using a higher wattage power supply. Let me know if you're able to try a higher wattage power supply and if this resolves your issue.


I cant try any higher wattage power supply right now but im going to buy AX1200 for sli and for future upgrading. But I start looking power supply for testing this


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> what about other molex and 3 pins devices such as cathodes or fans ?do they start when comming out of sleep on the same port ? is it only your pump ?


everything else works like a charm, it's just the pump.


----------



## PollytheParrot

Build log please


----------



## Ashuiegi

how old is the pump ? they do have mtbf , if the pc run 24/7 it can be sooner then we realize


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> From this:
> 
> 
> 
> To this :
> 
> 
> 
> To this: (proper plating job)
> 
> 
> 
> From this:
> 
> 
> 
> To thisproper plating job)
> 
> 
> 
> For added effect also this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally this for added measure which i got a few hours ago:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a build log.


plating them afterwards eh? you must know somewhere that it can be done for cheap. fill me in


----------



## WebsterXC

If I'm correct he does it himself.


----------



## wermad

There are diy plating kits. I tossed the idea around but decided it would be best not to do it myself. I called a plating shop and they quoted ~$100 for electrode and electrode-less plating per block (DD, both copper base and top). With just the base, I think it would have been about half as much.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> If I'm correct he does it himself.


even better lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There are diy plating kits. I tossed the idea around but decided it would be best not to do it myself. I called a plating shop and they quoted ~$100 for electrode and electrode-less plating per block (DD, both copper base and top). With just the base, I think it would have been about half as much.


i gotta agree with you there wermad. i mean im all for doing as many things as possible myself but plating things doesn't sit right with me. i doubt it'd be done 100% correctly.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> even better lol
> i gotta agree with you there wermad. i mean im all for doing as many things as possible myself but plating things doesn't sit right with me. i doubt it'd be done 100% correctly.


Me too lol. I wouldn't trust myself. Those that can do it and are comfortable with it, more power to ya lol


----------



## IT Diva

D5-strong meets 24V PWM speed control . . . .









So I had a go at setting up a D5 strong to run from a 24V source with PWM control . . . .

So far it's been interesting and I have more experimenting to do to while I try to get some kind of a baseline on the way this particular pump responds to The PWM frequency at a given duty cycle.

For now, everything is kinda disorganized while I gather data and change component values.

Once I get it as good as it will get, I'll organize it all into a neater package.

For now, a few pics of what I'm working with.

Darlene


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> how old is the pump ? they do have mtbf , if the pc run 24/7 it can be sooner then we realize


it's only 3 months old, my pc in on about 8 hours per day


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There are diy plating kits. I tossed the idea around but decided it would be best not to do it myself. I called a plating shop and they quoted ~$100 for electrode and electrode-less plating per block (DD, both copper base and top). With just the base, I think it would have been about half as much.


Yikes! The guy I take stuff to plate charges me basically nothing! $40 for two GTX 580 blocks. I'm sure if you shipped your stuff to me, got it plated, and then sent it back, it would still be cheaper than taking it to the place near you.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Striker36

Its a start.







I think I'm going to push pull the 420 and just push the 360 in the top... I still need to find decent 140mm fans though


----------



## ledzepp3

Has anyone here water cooled a 690/Titan/780 while keeping the reference cooler and that beautiful glowing Geforce logo? I'd love to know how









-Zepp


----------



## gdubc

I like these 
but they have 120mm mounts. Easy peasy to make some little brackets though.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Has anyone here water cooled a 690/Titan/780 while keeping the reference cooler and that beautiful glowing Geforce logo? I'd love to know how
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


there have been people in the titan owners club that have done it, you can unscrew the side logo easily from the reference cooler, how they got it mounted? idk i havent done it in person, when my EK blocks get here ill give it a try and see how to do it for you if you havent gotten it done by friday


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> there have been people in the titan owners club that have done it, you can unscrew the side logo easily from the reference cooler, how they got it mounted? idk i havent done it in person, when my EK blocks get here ill give it a try and see how to do it for you if you havent gotten it done by friday






I mean those who I guess have just cut a hole in the plexi where the GPU(s) sit, and installed like a Swiftech block or something along the lines of that. I want to keep the stock cooler on it, turn the fans down to the lowest setting keeping the memory air cooled, and just have the card be nice and quiet like that.

-Zepp


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> I mean those who I guess have just cut a hole in the plexi where the GPU(s) sit, and installed like a Swiftech block or something along the lines of that. I want to keep the stock cooler on it, turn the fans down to the lowest setting keeping the memory air cooled, and just have the card be nice and quiet like that.
> 
> -Zepp


What if something went wrong with your card and you had to do a rma wont that void your warranty....


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> What if something went wrong with your card and you had to do a rma wont that void your warranty....






I know I will be taking a risk with modding the card. If it dies, I'll be pretty pissed but left with one sweet paperweight.









-Zepp


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> What if something went wrong with your card and you had to do a rma wont that void your warranty....


My exact thoughts when I was removing the factory heatsink from my GTX770, which I had never tested. Not even to check if it ran.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to push pull the 420 and just push the 360 in the top... I still need to find decent 140mm fans though


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13819/fan-901/Akasa_140mm_x_25mm_VIPER_PWM_Fan_w_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearings_AK-FN063.html?tl=g36c365s1507&id=tWVrtZR4&mv_pc=4653
Fan speed: 600 -1600 RPM
Max airflow: 110.61 CFM (141.75 m3/h)
Max static air pressure: 3.12 mm H2O
Noise level: 12.5-26.01 dB(A)


----------



## ginger_nuts

Not saying them fans are good or bad, but if I have learnt one thing about fans in the computer scene.

It would be that manufacturers tend to be very generous in their statistics about their products.


----------



## LiquidHaus

added some more red leds


----------



## Maximus Knight

How on earth can a 140mm 1600rpm fan generate 3.0+ static pressure..gotta be exaggerated alil


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> I mean those who I guess have just cut a hole in the plexi where the GPU(s) sit, and installed like a Swiftech block or something along the lines of that. I want to keep the stock cooler on it, turn the fans down to the lowest setting keeping the memory air cooled, and just have the card be nice and quiet like that.
> 
> -Zepp


Yeah it's been done. Was pretty clean in the end, forget who did it though, was a nice copper tube build.

Not my kind of thing, not worth the effort and the VRMs get none of the cooling they need but whatever you're into.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> How on earth can a 140mm 1600rpm fan generate 3.0+ static pressure..gotta be exaggerated alil


There is no way the fans have a SP of 3.0+
GT-15 @ 1850 RPM only have a round 2.9 SP or so
And they are like the best Rad Fans out there

Don't believe everything the manufactures say about their fans


----------



## CptAsian

It's one of the most popular galleries here on OCN.

http://www.overclock.net/g/a/764995/force1-rig-sr-2-xeon-x5679s-sli-gtx-titans-copper-and-water/sort/display_order/page/320/


----------



## GhostDog99

here are some pictures for fun








my 3 rigs

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6451.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6758.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/Water-Cooling Rig 3/IMG_0310.jpg.html


----------



## KostVouts

The Dark Knight Rises

Phantom 410 (Black/White)
Upgrade my GPU to Asus GTX 770 + http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc770-gtx-dcii-nickel.html

Specs:

Intel i7 3770K (Overclocked: 4.2Ghz)
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Kingston Beast 2400Mhz 16Gb
Asus Gtx 770
Xilence 750W Gaming PSU
OCZ Vertex 2 120Gb( too old but still awesome)
Intel 550 60Gb ( for games )
EK+Alphacool Watercooling

And this is the result ! ! !


----------



## szeged

i normally dont like white tube/coolant builds, or white builds in general, but that looks pretty good imo







nicely done.

except that second to last pic...fix that kink before i have a stroke pls


----------



## stickg1

You have a kink in your short rear rad to GPU run.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Nice black and white build,but like stated b4 that kink just pops out at ya....


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You have a kink in your short rear rad to GPU run.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Nice black and white build,but like stated b4 that kink just pops out at ya....


lol this will go for days

seems like a kink is a sin for the watercoolers

anyway it still looks great


----------



## GhostDog99

Nice build mate
And yes kinks are a big no no here


----------



## KostVouts

This is not a big problem i check it twice !

CPU 31 C
GPU 28 C


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I like these
> but they have 120mm mounts. Easy peasy to make some little brackets though.


These are really great fans, and they are absolutely beast-mode for moving air!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Not saying them fans are good or bad, but if I have learnt one thing about fans in the computer scene.
> 
> It would be that manufacturers tend to be very generous in their statistics about their products.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> There is no way the fans have a SP of 3.0+
> GT-15 @ 1850 RPM only have a round 2.9 SP or so
> And they are like the best Rad Fans out there
> 
> Don't believe everything the manufactures say about their fans


True enough, but whither Akasa lies or not, they are still quality fans that move a lot of air!

Thanks - T


----------



## num1son

Akasa's are excellent fans and move a ton of air even at slow speeds. I don't doubt their ratings one bit. At least not respective to other manufacturers ratings.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> These are really great fans, and they are absolutely beast-mode for moving air!
> 
> True enough, but whither Akasa lies or not, they are still quality fans that move a lot of air!
> 
> Thanks - T


I never said they are bad fans just that I don't think they have
3.0 SP


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Not saying them fans are good or bad, but if I have learnt one thing about fans in the computer scene.
> 
> It would be that manufacturers tend to be very generous in their statistics about their products.


**Cough** cooler master **cough** silenx


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i normally dont like white tube/coolant builds, or white builds in general, but that looks pretty good imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nicely done.
> 
> except that second to last pic...fix that kink before i have a stroke pls


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You have a kink in your short rear rad to GPU run.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Nice black and white build,but like stated b4 that kink just pops out at ya....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> lol this will go for days
> 
> seems like a kink is a sin for the watercoolers
> 
> anyway it still looks great


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Nice build mate
> And yes kinks are a big no no here


All of this. Kinks are the worst lol. Otherwise good work








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KostVouts*
> 
> This is not a big problem i check it twice !
> 
> CPU 31 C
> GPU 28 C


Those are idle temps and do look ok. What about your full load?

Also, the kink may not cause many issues but it adds unnecessary restriction in your loop and just looks bad. Removing the kink could improve your cooling though as the water flow will be better


----------



## Kenjiwing

Thats the best thing about acrylic is that it cant kink


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I doubt that kink is bad enough to hurt the temps but it sticks out like a sore thumb.

I think I have a dying and out off warranty i7-3770K, sigh. My wallet is going to be in bad shape


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I doubt that kink is bad enough to hurt the temps but it sticks out like a sore thumb.
> 
> I think I have a dying and out off warranty i7-3770K, sigh. My wallet is going to be in bad shape


Ouch


----------



## Ashuiegi

keep in mind that the diameter important for conductance in turbulent flow is the inner one of the fittings which is surely smaller then this kink anyway ,......


----------



## KostVouts

I will buy an adapter to lift it up and put one 90 fitting to solve this problem...


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> I never said they are bad fans just that I don't think they have
> 3.0 SP


Oh yeah, no doubt you're probably correct, was just my







!!

Thanks - T


----------



## midnytwarrior

Hello all,

I've been lurking for quite a while and honestly can say I love the builds here!

Now I guess it's time to share mine


----------



## GhostDog99

Beautiful rig mate









Really like the GPU backplate you did
But that I don't like the 120rad


----------



## midnytwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Beautiful rig mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really like the GPU backplate you did
> But that I don't like the 120rad


Thanks!

I ordered the backplates from here http://www.coldzero.eu/173-custom-requested-parts?id_category=173&n=50

Is the rad too thick?

Thanks again


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnytwarrior*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I ordered the backplates from here http://www.coldzero.eu/173-custom-requested-parts?id_category=173&n=50
> 
> Is the rad too thick?
> 
> Thanks again


Coldzero is a great site! They will do custom work too! Highly recommend


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Thats the best thing about acrylic is that it cant kink


Best thing? Not even close IMO.

The best thing is that there are no plasticizers. Next would be how vibrant coloured coolants look in it.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnytwarrior*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I ordered the backplates from here http://www.coldzero.eu/173-custom-requested-parts?id_category=173&n=50
> 
> Is the rad too thick?
> 
> Thanks again


No the rad is not to thick I just don't like 120mm rads in the back
Just dos not loot so good Too me

And ya I know coldzero I have 3 of his SLI bridges
One fir each rig


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, I need some help with picking out the proper Crosssfire bridges for my 7950's. If i install the cards side by side, will i need single or dual bridges for them?

I'll be using the EK-FC R9, which are said to be compatible with 7950's on each card.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KostVouts*
> 
> The Dark Knight Rises


I see a pretty restraining kink on that link between the rad and the GPU waterblock inlet... You might want to add an angled adapter there...


----------



## GhostDog99

Lol I think he gets it there's a kink


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Not saying them fans are good or bad, but if I have learnt one thing about fans in the computer scene.
> 
> It would be that manufacturers tend to be very generous in their statistics about their products.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> How on earth can a 140mm 1600rpm fan generate 3.0+ static pressure..gotta be exaggerated alil


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> There is no way the fans have a SP of 3.0+
> GT-15 @ 1850 RPM only have a round 2.9 SP or so
> And they are like the best Rad Fans out there
> 
> Don't believe everything the manufactures say about their fans


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Not saying them fans are good or bad, but if I have learnt one thing about fans in the computer scene.
> 
> It would be that manufacturers tend to be very generous in their statistics about their products.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> How on earth can a 140mm 1600rpm fan generate 3.0+ static pressure..gotta be exaggerated alil


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> I never said they are bad fans just that I don't think they have
> 3.0 SP


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> **Cough** cooler master **cough** silenx


Sorry, i kinda posted that before i went to sleep last night. GT's are such amazing fans not just cuz of the SP. It's cuz of the noise to SP ratio. Alot of fans move alot of SP at high speeds and are loud as hell doing it. I have no way to judge if Viper's move the manufacturers spec but for 140 fans they're excellent rad fans. IMO and alot of other people they rule the 140 range while AP-15's and AP-00's rule the 120 range. CM are absolutely infamous for exaggerating their specs that's why I'm still waiting to see a legit comparison (martin cough cough) on their new JetFlo's. I always use manufacturer specs as a general starting point and then do my own research and everybody should do the same. But I'd be suprised if you see a more recommended 140 rad fan, other than maybe B Gears B-Blasters which are alot louder and probly move the same amount of air. IT DIVA highly recommends THESE fans. Knowing how informed she usually is, those are probly amazing 140 rad fans too..


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> But he's blaming the alphacool rads because they are completely made out of copper. That doesn't make any sense considering waterblocks can be made completely out of water too. He's just shifting the blame onto something else.


Waterblocks can be made out of water? Now that I'd like to see









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> i finished to upgrade my first custom watercooling loop
> 
> it s in a hafx , with a asus rog hero and i5 4670k , hd 7970 matrix.
> the coolant is some mayhem pastel sunset yellow with a tiny bit of red dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lies! You're totally using Sunny D to cool that rig









Looks awesome!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sorry, i kinda posted that before i went to sleep last night. GT's are such amazing fans not just cuz of the SP. It's cuz of the noise to SP ratio. Alot of fans move alot of SP at high speeds and are loud as hell doing it. I have no way to judge if Viper's move the manufacturers spec but for 140 fans they're excellent rad fans. IMO and alot of other people they rule the 140 range while AP-15's and AP-00's rule the 120 range. CM are absolutely infamous for exaggerating their specs that's why I'm still waiting to see a legit comparison (martin cough cough) on their new JetFlo's. I always use manufacturer specs as a general starting point and then do my own research and everybody should do the same. But I'd be suprised if you see a more recommended 140 rad fan, other than maybe B Gears B-Blasters which are alot louder and probly move the same amount of air. IT DIVA highly recommends THESE fans. Knowing how informed she usually is, those are probly amazing 140 rad fans too..


Reading all this makes me even happier that I bought GT's for my first liquid loop. My case and new CPU should be arriving today and I just have to order a salvo of parts from Dazmode (and he's out of stock on some of what I need, D'oh!) and I can finally build it!


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, u can never go wrong with GT's


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Yeah it's been done. Was pretty clean in the end, forget who did it though, was a nice copper tube build.
> 
> Not my kind of thing, not worth the effort and the VRMs get none of the cooling they need but whatever you're into.


Well the air cooling isn't too bad on Titans, the VRMs would still get cooled with the memory, but not as effectively. I wouldn't be going for some stupidly high OC, I just want to maybe build a silent folding rig in a Mercury S5









-Zepp


----------



## Ashuiegi

thanks !
i was thinking about calling it sunny d or tropicanna , no it s just the fiew drop of red dye in some sunset yellow , it would be pretty sad for your copper to put acid orange juice in the loop lol, at the same time who hasn't seen the video of the guy frying an egg with his gpu ,..... so why not


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I like these
> but they have 120mm mounts. Easy peasy to make some little brackets though.


I appreciate the lead but I have no one idea what fan that is....


----------



## kpoeticg

It's a Silverstone FHP141. The box is right behind it


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> I appreciate the lead but I have no one idea what fan that is....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's a Silverstone FHP141. The box is right behind it












Thanks - T


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> But he's blaming the alphacool rads because they are completely made out of copper. That doesn't make any sense considering waterblocks can be made completely out of water too. He's just shifting the blame onto something else.
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblocks can be made out of water? Now that I'd like to see
Click to expand...

Meant copper it was a long day


----------



## Iniura

I'm new to the watercooling scene and have a question.

I'm looking to to do a build in the near future and did a lot of researching and skimming trough these threads already, and i've seen a lot of people praising PrimoChill Advanced LRT advanced tubing because it won't or atleast not as much as other tubing plasticize.

I however want to know some opinions on EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black tubing, on the website it says it doesnt plasticize because it is made of rubber, can anyone tell me their experience with this tubing or anyone know of some disadvantages for taking this tubing over the Advanced LRT? I'm planning to use this with mayhems pastel if that matters.


----------



## Sunreeper

All tubing has plasticizer issues as far as I know the best tubing that has the least amount of plasticizer build up like you said is the advanced lrt. If you want to avoid the plasticizer issue altogether I'd recommend using hard acrylic tubing.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


this.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> I'm new to the watercooling scene and have a question.
> 
> I'm looking to to do a build in the near future and did a lot of researching and skimming trough these threads already, and i've seen a lot of people praising PrimoChill Advanced LRT advanced tubing because it won't or atleast not as much as other tubing plasticize.
> 
> I however want to know some opinions on EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black tubing, on the website it says it doesnt plasticize because it is made of rubber, can anyone tell me their experience with this tubing or anyone know of some disadvantages for taking this tubing over the Advanced LRT? I'm planning to use this with mayhems pastel if that matters.


That tube is Norprene and has no plasticizer in its construction.
Excellent tube and worth the money


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That tube is Norprene and has to plasticizer in its construction.
> Excellent tube and worth the money


Excuse me but I don't understand what you are saying, what does ''has to plasticizer in its contruction'' mean?

That it will placticize?(I don't think you mean that because the next sentence you say ''Excellent tube and worth the money''

Also your stating that EK ZMT tubing is of norprene material?

But on the EKWB site http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-10mm.html they state that is is EPDM and not norprene.

''EK ZMT (Zero Maintainance Tubing) is a high quality, zero maintainance industrial grade EPDM rubber tubing in stylish matte black.

This tubing is - just like Norprene - designed to withstand harsh conditions for a very long period of time, offering a truly exceptional lifespan even under UV, ozone and heat exposure for many years.''

I found this link and tubing in another topic on OCN http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10486/ex-tub-646/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_38_ID_58_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s1615&id=UxKZ2jKN&mv_pc=2197

And they state this ''Norprene Industrial Grade Tubing outperforms neoprene, EPDM and other general-purpose tubings in test after test and application after application. It will not weaken or crack after years of exposure to heat and ozone. This provides long service in a wide range of applications such as gasketing, abrasion-resistant sleeving and cable insulation.''

Mayb you are unintentional switching them in your brain(srry english is not my native language and don't know how to explain this but I think you know what I mean.

But what you are saying is that I should go for norprene?

So maybe the second link tubing is better to go with then the EK ZMT Tubing?

Thank you for your quick reply


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That tube is Norprene and has to plasticizer in its construction.
> Excellent tube and worth the money
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse me but I don't understand what you are saying, what does ''has to plasticizer in its contruction'' mean?
> 
> That it will placticize?(I don't think you mean that because the next sentence you say ''Excellent tube and worth the money''
> 
> Also your stating that EK ZMT tubing is of norprene material?
> 
> But on the EKWB site http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-10mm.html they state that is is EPDM and not norprene.
> 
> ''EK ZMT (Zero Maintainance Tubing) is a high quality, zero maintainance industrial grade EPDM rubber tubing in stylish matte black.
> 
> This tubing is - just like Norprene - designed to withstand harsh conditions for a very long period of time, offering a truly exceptional lifespan even under UV, ozone and heat exposure for many years.''
> 
> I found this link and tubing in another topic on OCN http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10486/ex-tub-646/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_38_ID_58_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s1615&id=UxKZ2jKN&mv_pc=2197
> 
> And they state this ''Norprene Industrial Grade Tubing outperforms neoprene, EPDM and other general-purpose tubings in test after test and application after application. It will not weaken or crack after years of exposure to heat and ozone. This provides long service in a wide range of applications such as gasketing, abrasion-resistant sleeving and cable insulation.''
> 
> Mayb you are unintentional switching them in your brain(srry english is not my native language and don't know how to explain this but I think you know what I mean.
> 
> But what you are saying is that I should go for norprene?
> 
> So maybe the second link tubing is better to go with then the EK ZMT Tubing?
> 
> Thank you for your quick reply
Click to expand...

edited typo,either are good.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Excuse me but I don't understand what you are saying, what does ''has to plasticizer in its contruction'' mean?
> 
> That it will placticize?(I don't think you mean that because the next sentence you say ''Excellent tube and worth the money''
> 
> Also your stating that EK ZMT tubing is of norprene material?
> 
> But on the EKWB site http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-10mm.html they state that is is EPDM and not norprene.
> 
> ''EK ZMT (Zero Maintainance Tubing) is a high quality, zero maintainance industrial grade EPDM rubber tubing in stylish matte black.
> 
> This tubing is - just like Norprene - designed to withstand harsh conditions for a very long period of time, offering a truly exceptional lifespan even under UV, ozone and heat exposure for many years.''
> 
> I found this link and tubing in another topic on OCN http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10486/ex-tub-646/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_38_ID_58_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s1615&id=UxKZ2jKN&mv_pc=2197
> 
> And they state this ''Norprene Industrial Grade Tubing outperforms neoprene, EPDM and other general-purpose tubings in test after test and application after application. It will not weaken or crack after years of exposure to heat and ozone. This provides long service in a wide range of applications such as gasketing, abrasion-resistant sleeving and cable insulation.''
> 
> Mayb you are unintentional switching them in your brain(srry english is not my native language and don't know how to explain this but I think you know what I mean.
> 
> But what you are saying is that I should go for norprene?
> 
> So maybe the second link tubing is better to go with then the EK ZMT Tubing?
> 
> Thank you for your quick reply


I think B- meant to say "no" plasticizer in its construction.


----------



## Iniura

Ok thank you guys, if anyone else with experience using this tubing and willing to share that would be great.


----------



## johnnybra

Here's some pics of my (very) unfinished rig

http://imgur.com/mYPRDkJ

http://imgur.com/R0MoFea

http://imgur.com/xz3fEpU


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> If I'm correct he does it himself.


Wish i could, but i leave such jobs to the professionals.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There are diy plating kits. I tossed the idea around but decided it would be best not to do it myself. I called a plating shop and they quoted ~$100 for electrode and electrode-less plating per block (DD, both copper base and top). With just the base, I think it would have been about half as much.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> even better lol
> i gotta agree with you there wermad. i mean im all for doing as many things as possible myself but plating things doesn't sit right with me. i doubt it'd be done 100% correctly.


I agree 100%

For those of you in the UK, (as i am at the moment)

-i originally had the faulty EK block stripped (first batch of EK nickel plating) and polished.

-then got a great deal on the RAM cooler.

-I am about to start a new build, when i decided on the colour scheme, nickel was the best colour for the blocks, so i sent them off and had them plated.

-The price was great.

-These are the guys that did it for me:http://www.lathco.co.uk/contact.php

-Very professional, and as you can see, a great job (the photography does not do their finish justice though-too many reflections)

-The plating is and i quote:

'I have carried out an XRF test and there is over 50 microns of plating (test results are over range which means they are greater than 50 microns) on most of the items with the lower limit being on the smaller items at an average of around 30 microns. The two main parts have over 50 microns at every point I tested including the block's fins.'

-That depth of properly applied Nickel plating is exactly what is needed.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Here's some pics of my (very) unfinished rig
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/mYPRDkJ
> 
> http://imgur.com/R0MoFea
> 
> http://imgur.com/xz3fEpU


I'm not a huge fan of image filters. But I can appreciate your work, thanks for sharing!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> If I'm correct he does it himself.
> 
> 
> 
> Wish i could, but i leave such jobs to the professionals.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There are diy plating kits. I tossed the idea around but decided it would be best not to do it myself. I called a plating shop and they quoted ~$100 for electrode and electrode-less plating per block (DD, both copper base and top). With just the base, I think it would have been about half as much.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> even better lol
> i gotta agree with you there wermad. i mean im all for doing as many things as possible myself but plating things doesn't sit right with me. i doubt it'd be done 100% correctly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I agree 100%
> 
> For those of you in the UK, (as i am at the moment)
> 
> -i originally had the faulty EK block stripped (first batch of EK nickel plating) and polished.
> 
> -then got a great deal on the RAM cooler.
> 
> -I am about to start a new build, when i decided on the colour scheme, nickel was the best colour for the blocks, so i sent them off and had them plated.
> 
> -The price was great.
> 
> -These are the guys that did it for me:http://www.lathco.co.uk/contact.php
> 
> -Very professional, and as you can see, a great job (the photography does not do their finish justice though-too many reflections)
> 
> -The plating is and i quote:
> 
> 'I have carried out an XRF test and there is over 50 microns of plating (test results are over range which means they are greater than 50 microns) on most of the items with the lower limit being on the smaller items at an average of around 30 microns. The two main parts have over 50 microns at every point I tested including the block's fins.'
> 
> -That depth of properly applied Nickel plating is exactly what is needed.
Click to expand...

That link will be handy.
EK plating is around a fith of that,that plating won't fail in hurry


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Well the air cooling isn't too bad on Titans, the VRMs would still get cooled with the memory, but not as effectively. I wouldn't be going for some stupidly high OC, I just want to maybe build a silent folding rig in a Mercury S5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


With a bit of voltage you know Titans can do like 225k PPD eh? But they will need great VRM cooling.


----------



## LazarusIV

Hey guys, I might finally have an opportunity to dunk my computer! Can I get some feedback on this loop please?



I know there's a lot of rad space in there but I'm waiting to get a new gfx card and I'd like to get a block for it and add it too, so I'm just holding off on that for right now. I'll do it all at once if I can but if not no big deal...

Thanks in advance, I love following this thread!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Hey guys, I might finally have an opportunity to dunk my computer! Can I get some feedback on this loop please?
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's a lot of rad space in there but I'm waiting to get a new gfx card and I'd like to get a block for it and add it too, so I'm just holding off on that for right now. I'll do it all at once if I can but if not no big deal...
> 
> Thanks in advance, I love following this thread!!!


Looks like a great list


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like a great list


Awesome man, thanks for the quick reply!!!

Another question: Anyone know of a VRM/NB block for my 990FXA-UD5? I'm having trouble locating one. Or maybe a generic block that'll work on the UD5?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Awesome man, thanks for the quick reply!!!
> 
> Another question: Anyone know of a VRM/NB block for my 990FXA-UD5? I'm having trouble locating one. Or maybe a generic block that'll work on the UD5?


Don't think they make a MB block for that board


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Don't think they make a MB block for that board


Well balls.


----------



## wermad

MB block are mostly for looks. With decent air flow, it should keep the vrm cool.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Well balls.


Most motherboard blocks are for Intel only, and only Intel's most popular boards such as the Rampage and Maximus series boards, as well as many X79 boards.

I think the last MB block I saw for AMD was for the UD7, but it's since reached EOL status.


----------



## kpoeticg

Between HERE and HERE u may be able to find a Northbridge block that'll work if you don't mind measuring and comparing

Same goes with Mosfet Blocks HERE and HERE


----------



## Destrto

Has anyone used these *Alphacool DC-LT* Pumps? Can anyone give an opinion of the performance or reliability of these? They claim on the site to be for quiet operation, and less for extreme overclocking. Which works for me.


----------



## WebsterXC

Pretty much use them for small tubing, small applications. I've used one for a small, RAM only loop. They're a cheap alternative for people who want to cool their Xbox's and stuff.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm pretty sure that's the same pump used in the Cooler Master Eisberg Prestige. Last time i googled it, I saw some stuff about it being noisy on the search page, but i was only a little curious so i didn't really dig farther than that. A D5 with a decent top would probly be the quietest option. I'm sure if I'm wrong about any of that some1 will chime in


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Ok thank you guys, if anyone else with experience using this tubing and willing to share that would be great.


I used it a bit(the tubing was packed with my l360 kit) but i found it to soft and it kinked very easily(but that might be me).
But it was the softness of the tube that made me switch to lrt


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Has anyone used these *Alphacool DC-LT* Pumps? Can anyone give an opinion of the performance or reliability of these? They claim on the site to be for quiet operation, and less for extreme overclocking. Which works for me.


It depends on the res you are planning on using. I currently have two in the 5.25"bay res. One is noisy the other is OK. One is good enough for a CPU and GPU loop at 12v. At which they are as noisy as the XSPC 750 pump res.

IMO running two at 5v would be good for only a CPU loop. I have mine running at 5v with a CPU + GPU + 2 rads and it doesn't keep temps well.

I would say lash out and buy a D5 or DDC.


----------



## adjago

hai all i am new in here and very glad to be here
i have new project with old item... check it























I am still waiting some parts and I will try to make Build Log in this project thanks


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adjago*
> 
> hai all i am new in here and very glad to be here
> i have new project with old item... check it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am still waiting some parts and I will try to make Build Log in this project thanks


Unique. I dig.


----------



## Alatar

New rad + bench and finally got the thing running after some pretty annoying trouble shooting (apparently I had a dead dimm)


----------



## szeged

Looks good alatar, hope that monsta helps out during benching.


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Looks good alatar, hope that monsta helps out during benching.


With the temps dropping


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







opening a door will help the most







But yeah compared to the mediocre EK rad I had before this should be nice.


----------



## adjago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Unique. I dig.


thanks


----------



## szeged

Im so jealous lol, winter here is just as bad as summer except the sky is grey now. Doesnt help temps at all lol.


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Im so jealous lol, winter here is just as bad as summer except the sky is grey now. Doesnt help temps at all lol.


I've been to Florida once and it was pretty uncomfortable. Especially since it was in mid July lol.

Anything over 21C or so is too much


----------



## szeged

was it the humidity or the heat that was worse for you? been here for over 20 years and the humidity still gets me lol.


----------



## Alatar

Both lol. I'm just used to something completely different (hat goes on when the temps drop below -20C...







).

Can't imagine overclockign in any hot and humid place. Every above ambient cooling solution is less effective and sub-zero stuff will get you tons of condensation...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Im so jealous lol, winter here is just as bad as summer except the sky is grey now. Doesnt help temps at all lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been to Florida once and it was pretty uncomfortable. Especially since it was in mid July lol.
> 
> *Anything over 21C or so is too much*
Click to expand...

This....I hate being hot....


----------



## szeged

so jealous









30c in winter in florida is never fun.


----------



## beele

Hey guys A few days ago I finished my build with the corsair carbide air 540 codenamed: Project Poseidon =D





You can check more photo's and the full article about it on my website

So what do you guys think. It's my first watercooling build.


----------



## adjago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beele*
> 
> Hey guys A few days ago I finished my build with the corsair carbide air 540 codenamed: Project Poseidon =D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can check more photo's and the full article about it on my website website
> 
> So what do you guys think. It's my first watercooling build.


looking great


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Unique. I dig.


I shall dig with you.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beele*
> 
> Hey guys A few days ago I finished my build with the corsair carbide air 540 codenamed: Project Poseidon =D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can check more photo's and the full article about it on my website
> 
> So what do you guys think. It's my first watercooling build.


Norprene tubing? Looks very nice IMO!


----------



## beele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> I shall dig with you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Norprene tubing? Looks very nice IMO!


yup norprene tubing =D


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beele*
> 
> yup norprene tubing =D


I must admit, as much as I live copper tubing, ever since seeing theseekeroffun's SR-2 build I've been
feeling a bit of an itch for using norprene tubing in a build. Ah well, we shall see...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *beele*
> 
> yup norprene tubing =D
> 
> 
> 
> I must admit, as much as I live copper tubing, ever since seeing theseekeroffun's SR-2 build I've been
> feeling a bit of an itch for using norprene tubing in a build. Ah well, we shall see...
Click to expand...

Its good stuff,Niko recommends it and uses it himself so thats good enough for me.


----------



## LazarusIV

Thanks for the info on the mobo block guys, I appreciate it! I guess I'll just leave that on air then, no reason to get crazy.

I can't wait to start ordering my stuff, hopefully in the next month or so...


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Im so jealous lol, winter here is just as bad as summer except the sky is grey now. Doesnt help temps at all lol.


Oh don't complain! At least it gets colder there than in Orlando!

I _have_ been digging the recent cold snap we have been enjoying though...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> was it the humidity or the heat that was worse for you? been here for over 20 years and the humidity still gets me lol.


Always the humidity. Forever the humidity.

Thanks - T


----------



## DarthBaggins

And by cold snap you mean 60deg weather lol. But yeah anywhere in the SE US humidity is the worst part, if it was dry and 80-90f it wouldn't be bad.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Yeah, I'm at 26C in my case currently, and that's nice. We are in Sarasota but we keep it on the chilly side in the house in general though and this room / office doesn't get much sun. Keeps the delta's reasonable for what I have. Another 480 and I should be golden.


----------



## szeged

i have my AC at about 13c atm, i like everything cold lol.

why do i live in florida again? whyyyyyyyy


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Both lol. I'm just used to something completely different (hat goes on when the temps drop below -20C...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Can't imagine overclockign in any hot and humid place. Every above ambient cooling solution is less effective and sub-zero stuff will get you tons of condensation...


Overclocking 24/7 in 32 - 37C over here.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Overclocking 24/7 in 32 - 37C over here.


That's just gross lol

I would be so uncomfortable that I'd just be immobilized in uncomfortableness lol

But hey, I like negative temps


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And by cold snap you mean 60deg weather lol. But yeah anywhere in the SE US humidity is the worst part, if it was dry and 80-90f it wouldn't be bad.


Hey, for bloody Floridians, that's a cold snap! (I am one, I can say that...)

I have spent years in CO, WV, and the mountains of Afghanistan, so I really like cold, and I like DRY COLD (I'm talkin' to YOU, WV...), so being back in FL of my own accord is kinda like kicking myself in the nuts.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i have my AC at about 13c atm, i like everything cold lol.
> 
> why do i live in florida again? whyyyyyyyy


Disney?
Nope. Mom worked there for 18 years. I go there to visit friends, not sight-see...

Beaches?
Hate the beach. Hate sand. Hate salt water.

I dunno... why do _you_ live here?









Thanks - T


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Hey, for bloody Floridians, that's a cold snap! (I am one, I can say that...)
> 
> I have spent years in CO, WV, and the mountains of Afghanistan, so I really like cold, and I like DRY COLD (I'm talkin' to YOU, WV...), so being back in FL of my own accord is kinda like kicking myself in the nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disney?
> Nope. Mom worked there for 18 years. I go there to visit friends, not sight-see...
> 
> Beaches?
> Hate the beach. Hate sand. Hate salt water.
> 
> I dunno... why do _you_ live here?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


tallahasse has neither beaches nor disney









we have ******** and swamps lol.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That's just gross lol
> 
> I would be so uncomfortable that I'd just be immobilized in uncomfortableness lol


Anything below 25C, my feets & hands stop working (read numb). It would take me twice the time to solved simple problem (exaggerated little bit) in cold ambient.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> But hey, I like negative temps


Who doesn't?! For overclock & benching of course.


----------



## BonzaiTree

It's funny, up here in Canadialand (Southern Ontario) we get both extremes. It'll get into the high 30's Celsius in the summer (40's with humidex) and in the winter it can drop below -20 C.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Anything below 25C, my feets & hands stop working (read numb). It would take me twice the time to solved simple problem (exaggerated little bit) in cold ambient.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who doesn't?! For overclock & benching of course.


Below 25C your hands are numb???!????
Holy.

I have the office at work set at 20C, lol.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> It depends on the res you are planning on using. I currently have two in the 5.25"bay res. One is noisy the other is OK. One is good enough for a CPU and GPU loop at 12v. At which they are as noisy as the XSPC 750 pump res.
> 
> IMO running two at 5v would be good for only a CPU loop. I have mine running at 5v with a CPU + GPU + 2 rads and it doesn't keep temps well.
> 
> I would say lash out and buy a D5 or DDC.


Thanks for the input guys, I think I will look for a decent Laing, XSPC, or similar pump instead.

I have another question now, about these new XSPC Photon series Reservoirs. As well as other reservoirs like the Alphacool's that are similar (the tube style). Is it possible to attach a pump to one side or another with those? Say if I wanted to mount this vertically in a bare spot on next to my motherboard tray, and have the pump directly underneath it.. If it is possible, which pumps should I look at in order to do that?

I'm also looking at a couple of the reservoir tops for Laing DDC's and D5's, but since I cannot see it in person to really get an idea of how they attach to pumps like the Laing DDC-1T or the Swiftech MCP355, I can't tell if they can only attach to reservoirs of that type or if they are compatible with others.

My Google fu is not at its strongest this morning, as I am having a bit of a struggle finding decent pictures of what I'm looking for.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> tallahasse has neither beaches nor disney
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we have ******** and swamps lol.


Oh, We have swamps in S and E Orlando, and we had ******** where I came from (Lakeland), and while I consider myself a hybrid person (a little of a lot of sensibilities rolled into one), I can't say I would like Tally for one specific reason: FSU.

I'm a Gator.










Thanks - T


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> tallahasse has neither beaches nor disney
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we have ******** and swamps lol.


Yep...I grew up in Wakulla actually, lol


----------



## Michalius

Had a question for those that often use barbs, maybe someone from EK could answer as well.

I am dead set on using the ZMT Tubing for my test bench. Unfortunately, as I was previously a 7/16x5/8" guy, I dont have any 3/8x5/8" bits.

I really like the idea of these pivoting barbs, but I'm unsure as to whether they will provide a secure enough fit. Of course, I'd be looking at swapping out the clamps for the proper OD size.

When I've used barbs in the past, I did the 7/16" ID over 1/2" barbs, so I'm a bit wary of matching ID with barb size.

Can anyone assuage my fears?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks for the input guys, I think I will look for a decent Laing, XSPC, or similar pump instead.
> 
> I have another question now, about these new XSPC Photon series Reservoirs. As well as other reservoirs like the Alphacool's that are similar (the tube style). Is it possible to attach a pump to one side or another with those? Say if I wanted to mount this vertically in a bare spot on next to my motherboard tray, and have the pump directly underneath it.. If it is possible, which pumps should I look at in order to do that?
> 
> I'm also looking at a couple of the reservoir tops for Laing DDC's and D5's, but since I cannot see it in person to really get an idea of how they attach to pumps like the Laing DDC-1T or the Swiftech MCP355, I can't tell if they can only attach to reservoirs of that type or if they are compatible with others.
> 
> My Google fu is not at its strongest this morning, as I am having a bit of a struggle finding decent pictures of what I'm looking for.


If you're interested in the Photon, you might as well get the Photon that has a D5 attached to it =P. The build quality's incredible on the Photon. You won't be disappointed with it. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39186


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you're interested in the Photon, you might as well get the Photon that has a D5 attached to it =P. The build quality's incredible on the Photon. You won't be disappointed with it. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39186


That partially helps, but that isnt really what I'm asking for. What is at the end of that reservoir that allows the pump to attach to it? And where can I find those for other pumps/reservoirs? Is a "pump top" what I need to be looking at?

Also, with these similar pumps, like the Swiftech MCP655, koolance pmp-300, will these fit with other brand reservoirs? And if so, with which pump tops? THey look to be the same design to me. But I am only looking at pictures.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well i linked that because u specifically mentioned the Photon. If you want the Photon with a D5 Top attached to it, you HAVE TO buy it like that. Believe me, I bought the Photon b4 they released the D5 version. They don't sell the end-caps seperate. But yeah, either look at pump tops or pump/reservoir combo's.

The Swiftech MCP655 IS a Laing D5, that's why they look the same. The Laing D5 and Laing DDC have been rebranded and sold 100 different ways. The MCP35x is a Laing DDC with PWM added. As long the pump top is made for a D5, it'll work with any brand D5. You can also get D5's with just the pump mechanics like the Alphacool and Aquacomputer versions if you're buying a top for it anyway. Same goes for Laing DDC, any MCP3__ or any other brand DDC will fit.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That partially helps, but that isnt really what I'm asking for. What is at the end of that reservoir that allows the pump to attach to it? And where can I find those for other pumps/reservoirs? Is a "pump top" what I need to be looking at?
> 
> Also, with these similar pumps, like the Swiftech MCP655, koolance pmp-300, will these fit with other brand reservoirs? And if so, with which pump tops? THey look to be the same design to me. But I am only looking at pictures.


Yes it is usually a pump top. The tops typically require you to remove the pump from the stock top and you put it into the other top. The tops meant for res have a threaded part that the res screws onto. The top also correctly routes the fluid from the inlet through res and sucks in fluid from the res and pushes thru the outlet.

As far as mixing and matching tops with reservoirs, some may work but I can't for sure which ones will. I like the koolance d5 res top assembly personally. With it you do need to buy the pump, top, res, and res cap, however.


----------



## kpoeticg

The only pump tops that fit reservoirs that i know about, were made to fit each other and made by the same brand.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well i linked that because u specifically mentioned the Photon. If you want the Photon with a D5 Top attached to it, you HAVE TO buy it like that. Believe me, I bought the Photon b4 they released the D5 version. They don't sell the end-caps seperate. But yeah, either look at pump tops or pump/reservoir combo's.
> 
> The Swiftech MCP655 IS a Laing D5, that's why they look the same. The Laing D5 and Laing DDC have been rebranded and sold 100 different ways. The MCP35x is a Laing DDC with PWM added. As long the pump top is made for a D5, it'll work with any brand D5. You can also get D5's with just the pump mechanics like the Alphacool and Aquacomputer versions if you're buying a top for it anyway. Same goes for Laing DDC, any MCP3__ or any other brand DDC will fit.


Awesome, that helps me understand things a lot better. Thank you for the explanation of this as I'm not familiar with it myself.

Right now it's looking like EK is winning this little battle with me picking through all of these different parts. (Would be awesome if I could ever get some free parts by sponsoring) but anyway...

I'm also looking at the Alphcool Cape Corp series Reservoirs, but it doesnt state whether a pump can be attached. And I'm not seeing anything in the accessories list that looks like it matches.

Is there anything equivalent to the EK DDC Pump? They look like the Swiftech MCP35_ series to me.

I'm also asking about mixing and matching because it's looking, so far anyway, like I can buy the parts seperately for cheaper than the combo's.


----------



## kpoeticg

No problem. Glad to help. DDC and MCP35_ are the same model pump. So tops will be compatible. You could put any DDC top that i know of on an MCP35x, EK DDC, MCP355 and so on. They are all Laing DDC Pumps.

If it looks the same as a DDC pump than most likely it is. If it looks like a D5 than most likely it is. It's like any electronics OEM situation. Laing makes great waterpumps. Companies like Swiftech, EK, Koolance, XSPC they change or improve them in their own different ways, but it's still the same pump on the inside so the tops will be compatible.

For instance, that Photon Res with the D5 attached, you have to buy it that way because XSPC doesn't sell the Res End-Caps separate. But if you bought the Photon + D5 Combo, you could take out the XSPC D5 and replace it with any D5/MCP655 that you want.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> No problem. Glad to help. DDC and MCP35_ are the same model pump. So tops will be compatible. You could put any DDC top that i know of on an MCP35x, EK DDC, MCP355 and so on. They are all Laing DDC Pumps.


That's great news. Thank you again.

I believe the EK DDC 3.2 X-Res 140 is the one I am choosing. I dont need any huge reservoir, and nor do I need any fancy lights (may change when I get everything together).

Has anybody used these yet? I'm curious about the mounting mehanism is claims it has, and how I will be able to mount this inside the case.


----------



## Destrto

One last question.. In all honesty, how much of a difference does Acetal+Nickel and Copper Acetal have between each other?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well pretty much any Nickel u see in watercooling is Nickel Plated Copper. Alot of fittings that have Nickel are Nickel Plated Brass. It depends how good the plating is. If/when the Nickel plating starts to flake is when it causes alot of problems in peoples loops. Some people never have issue's. I go with all copper but I'm still a bit of a noob myself. If it's plated right and you use decent coolant or the right additives you shouldn't have issues. But so many things that are fine in watercooling suddenly become not okay anymore after you've already invested money, so i try to play it safe =P


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well pretty much any Nickel u see in watercooling is Nickel Plated Copper. Alot of fittings that have Nickel are Nickel Plated Brass. It depends how good the plating is. If/when the Nickel plating starts to flake is when it causes alot of problems in peoples loops. Some people never have issue's. I go with all copper but I'm still a bit of a noob myself. If it's plated right and you use decent coolant or the right additives you shouldn't have issues. But so many things that are fine in watercooling suddenly become not okay anymore after you've already invested money, so i try to play it safe =P


Yea, it seems as though most of the Nickel plated blocks are a bit more expensive. Althouh a few of the EK models are cheaper currently.

I'd rather not have to worry about flaking though, as this would be my very first time in watercooling, not counting the Closed loop coolers I have. So I think I will stick to the copper acetal for now.


----------



## derickwm

You don't have to worry about your nickel flaking, and if for the bizarre reason it does, we will replace it. Assuming you haven't voided the warranty in a different way.

As far as performance between the different variations, there isn't any. Just aesthetics.

For mounting maybe this will help:


----------



## PCSarge

my cpu/gpu loop is in the prodigy in my sig, i was just wondering if my 90/10 distilled/antifreeze mix is safe, as i had no algaecide so i figured, antifreeze is the next best thing









on a side note. derick you should love me long time









everything with a block in my rig is under an EKWB. even my DDC got your X-top


----------



## Devastater6194

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beele*
> 
> Hey guys A few days ago I finished my build with the corsair carbide air 540 codenamed: Project Poseidon =D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can check more photo's and the full article about it on my website
> 
> So what do you guys think. It's my first watercooling build.


Talk about great minds thinking alike i'm planning a build almost identical except i will be placing the pump under the drive cages.
Couple of questions. Do you think the tubing will still fit at the bottom of the 360mm rad if there was 2 hard drives installed in the bottom?
Also would you say there is room up the top for push/pull?
PS did you see your build got posted on EKs Facebook page? https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=573969529323749&set=a.288479541206084.77684.182927101761329&type=1&theater
Congrats


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> 
> 
> my cpu/gpu loop is in the prodigy in my sig, i was just wondering if my 90/10 distilled/antifreeze mix is safe, as i had no algaecide so i figured, antifreeze is the next best thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on a side note. derick you should love me long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> everything with a block in my rig is under an EKWB. even my DDC got your X-top












Post some more pics up!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You don't have to worry about your nickel flaking, and if for the bizarre reason it does, we will replace it. Assuming you haven't voided the warranty in a different way.
> 
> As far as performance between the different variations, there isn't any. Just aesthetics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For mounting maybe this will help:


Thanks for the info. it's much appreciated.

Is that UNI Holder what is mentioned as "mounting mechanism" on the PPCS site?

Also Derickwm, my entire part list currently is EK products, I'm very impressed by not only the pricing, but the consistency as well. I just sent an email to [email protected], any chance you might know how long that would take to get answered?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Post some more pics up!


ill grab some more after work, gotta fix the cable mess on the backside for you first bro.

in the meantime heres some crummy ones


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You don't have to worry about your nickel flaking, and if for the bizarre reason it does, we will replace it. Assuming you haven't voided the warranty in a different way.
> 
> As far as performance between the different variations, there isn't any. Just aesthetics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For mounting maybe this will help:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. it's much appreciated.
> 
> Is that UNI Holder what is mentioned as "mounting mechanism" on the PPCS site?
> 
> Also Derickwm, my entire part list currently is EK products, I'm very impressed by not only the pricing, but the consistency as well. I just sent an email to [email protected], any chance you might know how long that would take to get answered?
Click to expand...

Yes, http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37567

But that pump/res combo you linked earlier includes this as well.

Glad you've had a pleasant experience  I'd imagine within the next 48 hours. We try to get back within 24 hours but due to time zones and the amount of emails we get everyday, we can't always do so,

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Post some more pics up!
> 
> 
> 
> ill grab some more after work, gotta fix the cable mess on the backside for you first bro.
> 
> in the meantime heres some crummy ones
Click to expand...


----------



## Destrto

Alright thanks Derickwm. Good to know.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Hello Everyone! Quick question:

I'm debating between the koolance 380i block or the EK Supreme Elite block. Is the EK worth the extra $30.00usd? Any thoughts?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17067/ex-blc-1224/EK_Supremacy_ELITE_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Full_Nickel_-_Socket_2011_w_Indigo_Xtreme_EK-Supremacy_Elite_-_Intel_2011.html?tl=g57c603s1912

VS.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17580/ex-blc-1376/Koolance_CPU-380I_Intel_Liquid_Cooling_CPU_Block_-_No_Fittings_.html


----------



## Destrto

I personally think it would depend on how "shiny" you'll want your CPU block to look. To me, that seems to be the only discernable difference between the two. I also like the way the koolance block looks a little better personally.


----------



## tiborrr12

Remember there's Indigo Xtreme bundled for that $30 USD more.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I personally think it would depend on how "shiny" you'll want your CPU block to look. To me, that seems to be the only discernable difference between the two. I also like the way the koolance block looks a little better personally.


So aside from looks, are there any performance benefits?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Remember there's Indigo Xtreme bundled for that $30 USD more.


I read it came with Indigo Extreme, but don't know how much better that stuff is compared to Artic Silver 5.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> So aside from looks, are there any performance benefits?
> I read it came with Indigo Extreme, but don't know how much better that stuff is compared to Artic Silver 5.


Artic Silver 5 is really old stuff. There are much better TIMs on the market now and Indigo Extreme is one of the best.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Artic Silver 5 is really old stuff. There are much better TIMs on the market now and Indigo Extreme is one of the best.


Good to know, thanks for the info!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

EK Elite all the way!
It'll look good with those cables of yours.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That link will be handy.
> EK plating is around a fith of that,that plating won't fail in hurry


Just ask for Mark-i told him (after i was so pleased with their work) that i would post pictures of the blocks on OCN.


----------



## PCSarge

cause i promised derrick







thier not pretty but heres some more.



if you can guess the vendor i got the maple leaf EK block from you win a prize, no cheating.



theres the x-TOP



and cause my radioactive green res is so cool with a light on it and no that is not water dye


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Remember there's Indigo Xtreme bundled for that $30 USD more.


Is the Indigo the same as Gelid?

My copper plexi came w/ Gelid and ppcs.com shows the nickel top comes w/ Gelid as well, ?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is the Indigo the same as Gelid?
> 
> My copper plexi came w/ Gelid and ppcs.com shows the nickel top comes w/ Gelid as well, ?


mine also came with gelid.......where be my indigo :O


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> if you can guess the vendor i got the maple leaf EK block from you win a prize, no cheating.


Dazmode


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> mine also came with gelid.......where be my indigo :O


My Supremacy Clean Nickel came with Gelid. Iirc, only the Elite comes with Indigo..0.O


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> My Supremacy Clean Nickel came with Gelid. Iirc, only the Elite comes with Indigo..0.O


Gotcha









What makes the Elite special from the CSQ and Clean nickel tops? Nickel plated top bracket?


----------



## Anoxy

Hi guys, brand spanking new to anything watercooling. I searched the thread over for some examples of loops in an Arc Midi R2, and found a couple. But they were extremely nice.

I was hoping somebody might be able to start me on the right path for a 'budget friendly' CPU and 2x GTX780 loop. Any input is greatly appreciated.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You don't have to worry about your nickel flaking, and if for the bizarre reason it does, we will replace it. Assuming you haven't voided the warranty in a different way.


2 questions related to that.

1. Does "Replacing It" mean my entire loop or just the block that flaked in the first place?
2. Does voiding the warranty mean using ONLY EK coolant?
ie. If I use EK Nickel Blocks, Alphacool NexXxos rads, Advanced LRT, and EK coolant and my loop corrodes, do you guys replace the entire loop?

I love you guys products, but i've done everything i can to stay away from Nickel so far because of some things I've read. If you could clarify this for me it would set my mind at ease
Thanx


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Gotcha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What makes the Elite special from the CSQ and Clean nickel tops? Nickel plated top bracket?


The Elite iirc has everything in nickel. But I am very sure there is a solid nickel supremacy block with the normal black hold down bracket. Other than that, the performance diff is minimal. =]


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hi guys, brand spanking new to anything watercooling. I searched the thread over for some examples of loops in an Arc Midi R2, and found a couple. But they were extremely nice.
> 
> I was hoping somebody might be able to start me on the right path for a 'budget friendly' CPU and 2x GTX780 loop. Any input is greatly appreciated.


Define budget friendly. If you need two full cover 780 blocks, a CPU block, and 480mm of rad space, all brand new, that sounds like $400-$500 just to start.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hi guys, brand spanking new to anything watercooling. I searched the thread over for some examples of loops in an Arc Midi R2, and found a couple. But they were extremely nice.
> 
> I was hoping somebody might be able to start me on the right path for a 'budget friendly' CPU and 2x GTX780 loop. Any input is greatly appreciated.


I did a rig not that long ago in an Arc Midi R2. Be plenty for a CPU and 2 780s 

Check it out here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1395988/log-derick-builds-a-work-rig-gold-plated-block-nvidia-tesla-k20-intel-3930k

To get started you could use a EK-KIT L240 & you'd benefit a lot from adding a second radiator, such as I have.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You don't have to worry about your nickel flaking, and if for the bizarre reason it does, we will replace it. Assuming you haven't voided the warranty in a different way.
> 
> 
> 
> 2 questions related to that.
> 
> 1. Does "Replacing It" mean my entire loop or just the block that flaked in the first place?
> 2. Does voiding the warranty mean using ONLY EK coolant?
> ie. If I use EK Nickel Blocks, Alphacool NexXxos rads, Advanced LRT, and EK coolant and my loop corrodes, do you guys replace the entire loop?
> 
> I love you guys products, but i've done everything i can to stay away from Nickel so far because of some things I've read. If you could clarify this for me it would set my mind at ease
> Thanx
Click to expand...

RMA conditions aren't exactly my area of expertise and water cooling can have so many different variations I can't say as I'm not entirely familiar right now and don't want to mislead anyone, but I will check into it as it's handy info . I can say though that if a block flakes we won't be replacing the entire loop, just the flaking block.

To be clear, flaking blocks have not been a problem in quite some time and we try to be fair as possible with all RMAs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> The Elite iirc has everything in nickel. But I am very sure there is a solid nickel supremacy block with the normal black hold down bracket. Other than that, the performance diff is minimal. =]


Thanks, so the extra nickel plated top bracket is the reason for the extra cost. Makes sense since a nickel or chrome bracket is ~$20 extra. You get some better goo I guess









I prefer copper after the whole Nickel-Gate fiasco and plexi to show off my Mayhems pastel.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> RMA conditions aren't exactly my area of expertise and water cooling can have so many different variations I can't say as I'm not entirely familiar right now and don't want to mislead anyone, but I will check into it as it's handy info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I can say though that if a block flakes we won't be replacing the entire loop, just the flaking block.
> 
> To be clear, flaking blocks have not been a problem in quite some time and we try to be fair as possible with all RMAs.


Thanx for giving me an honest answer. I respect that very much. Obviously when Nickel starts to flake, the particular block that flaked ends up being the least of the problems.

I know that they haven't been an issue in a while. And using Pastel with NexXxos rads was perfectly fine up until a cpl days ago too. I just try to play it safe with copper and brass (which limits me INCREDIBLY







) LOL

Thanx for the reply









Can u also tell me if your DDC and D5 X-Tops are compatible with your X3 res's? I wanna add a 2nd pump in my loop since i just decided to dbl the rad space. That's the route I'd like to go, and I like all the interchangeability of your X3 res's.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Define budget friendly. If you need two full cover 780 blocks, a CPU block, and 480mm of rad space, all brand new, that sounds like $400-$500 just to start.


Sorry, as new as I am to this, I have little idea what kind of money needs to be spent on a custom loop. By 'budget friendly' I mostly mean barebones, no excessive aesthetic flare. Just the most I can get with my money, bang for the buck.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I did a rig not that long ago in an Arc Midi R2. Be plenty for a CPU and 2 780s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check it out here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1395988/log-derick-builds-a-work-rig-gold-plated-block-nvidia-tesla-k20-intel-3930k
> 
> To get started you could use a EK-KIT L240 & you'd benefit a lot from adding a second radiator, such as I have.


Much appreciated! I'll check it out.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Gotcha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What makes the Elite special from the CSQ and Clean nickel tops? Nickel plated top bracket?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> The Elite iirc has everything in nickel. But I am very sure there is a solid nickel supremacy block with the normal black hold down bracket. Other than that, the performance diff is minimal. =]


Good to know, I'm gonna stick with the Elite and try that indigo extreme paste.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks, so the extra nickel plated top bracket is the reason for the extra cost. Makes sense since a nickel or chrome bracket is ~$20 extra. You get some better goo I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer copper after the whole Nickel-Gate fiasco and plexi to show off my Mayhems pastel.


The Elite blocks come with a set of the very expensive Indigo Extreme phase change TIM. It retails a little more than the price difference between an elite and the plain full metal blocks I think. That is the real difference besides the plated bracket. The TIM is why the Elites come in specific socket packs rather than being universal like the other blocks.

Indigo Extreme is not a paste but a metal like substance and only 2 applications come with each kit.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The Elite blocks come with a set of the very expensive Indigo Extreme phase change TIM. It retails a little more than the price difference between an elite and the plain full metal blocks I think. That is the real difference besides the plated bracket. The TIM is why the Elites come in specific socket packs rather than being universal like the other blocks.
> 
> Indigo Extreme is not a paste but a metal like substance and only 2 applications come with each kit.


Cool, thanks for the info. So this is a phase change friendly block and that's where the extra cost comes in.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cool, thanks for the info. So this is a phase change friendly block and that's where the extra cost comes in.


Its not phase change in the sense it is designed for a phase change system or super low temps ... rather the TIM itself changes. When applied a complicated heating and cooling regimen needs to be followed as the metal flows over the IHS and bonds to it. I have taken one application off and it had to be peeled off like glue.

If the process is not done properly the metal either does not reflow or not harden properly and it ends up not working as it should. There is a very good video guide on how to do it the right way now though. I botched my first go at it and didn't get very good temps at all. I cooled it down too quickly by turning the pumps back on.

http://indigo-xtreme.com/


----------



## kpoeticg

You basically apply the Indigo which is like a liquid metal. Then remove your cooler and overheat your CPU to apply it. Then put your block or cooler back on. Supposed to have wayyyyyyyyy better heat transfer than other Tim's.

Or something to that effect.....


----------



## stren

I wrote a whole guide and accompanying video for Indigo Xtreme, though I can't link it here because of forum rules







But if you're struggling then google something relevant and you'll find it


----------



## wermad

So, is this Indigo stuff useful for wc applications or just phase change cooling?


----------



## kpoeticg

It has nothing to do with Phase Change cooling. U use it as regular TIM on CPU Heatspreader. What he meant by phase change is that the metal changes form when you "Burn" it onto your CPU


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It has nothing to do with Phase Change cooling. U use it as regular TIM on CPU Heatspreader. What he meant by phase change is that the metal changes form when you "Burn" it onto your CPU


Gotcha









Anything like CL?


----------



## derickwm

Stren did a nice review/comparison here.

Edit* Ninja'd sorta


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, basically except u use it on the IHS instead of the Die

CL's for Die -> IHS
Indigo's for IHS -> Block or Cooler


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, is this Indigo stuff useful for wc applications or just phase change cooling?


It's designed more for water cooling than phase, it's too costly for benchers to use. I'm not even sure if anyone has tested it with subzero. There may be some confusion because it's called a phase change alloy based TIM, but that doesn't mean that it's for phase change system, what it means is that the TIM changes between different states or phases during application and forms a single crystal with awesome thermal properties when it's done.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hi guys, brand spanking new to anything watercooling. I searched the thread over for some examples of loops in an Arc Midi R2, and found a couple. But they were extremely nice.
> 
> I was hoping somebody might be able to start me on the right path for a 'budget friendly' CPU and 2x GTX780 loop. Any input is greatly appreciated.


My WIP is in a Arc Midi R2. I love the case as it gives you a lot of options for the size and they put some really nice ideas into it (such as the offset rad mount in the top (gives you just enough room for MB blocks, lol. I have it pretty stuffed with CPU, MB, RAM, and 3 GPU blocks with 3 240 rads and 1 120 rad. I modded the back panel to fit the extra rad in there. I am also considering modding the top and front panel to remove the foam dust filters (very restrictive) and but keep it looking nice.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar-wc-fractal-arc-midi-r2


----------



## Michalius

Someone assuage my fears of 3/8" ZMT tubing on 3/8" barbs please.

When I've used barbs in the past, I went with 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs, and was very pleased with the results.

I would go for comp fittings but have fallen in love with those Koolance pivoting barbs.

Anyone have thoughts on the subject?


----------



## Mr357

I imagine this is too good to be true, but are there any silent rad fans on the market for $15 or less? These Swiftech Helix's I have are pretty awful, and since I'm going to be doing a rig update soon I figured I'd replace my rad fans in hopes of finally having a quiet system. BitFenix Spectre Pro's are $12 a piece and I found some Noiseblockers for $15 even, but will I need to simply pay more and get some Sythe GT's? I'm going to be buying 5 of whatever I end up choosing, and they have to be 120mm. Thanks in advance!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I imagine this is too good to be true, but are there any silent rad fans on the market for $15 or less? These Swiftech Helix's I have are pretty awful, and since I'm going to be doing a rig update soon I figured I'd replace my rad fans in hopes of finally having a quiet system. BitFenix Spectre Pro's are $12 a piece and I found some Noiseblockers for $15 even, but will I need to simply pay more and get some Sythe GT's? I'm going to be buying 5 of whatever I end up choosing, and they have to be 120mm. Thanks in advance!


Get the GT AP-15s. Totally worth it


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Get the GT AP-15s. Totally worth it


I've read countless times that they're quiet, but just how quiet?


----------



## kpoeticg

Extremely quiet. That's why they're so popular. HERE judge for yourself =)


----------



## dervladimir

Hi, my rig

   

waiting for EK-FC680 GTX Lightning


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I've read countless times that they're quiet, but just how quiet?


They are not only quiet but push a ton of air through even high fpi and thick rads. You can run them at lower RPM to get them even quieter and still get plenty of air through most rads.

Get them and put them on a fan controller and you will be able to run super quiet and get great cooling. And when you want to run heavier load crank em up a bit to keep everything cool


----------



## wermad

so, martin's lab really doesn't show the Corsairs living up to the hype. So APs continue to be the champs. What a shame about the corsairs....


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I imagine this is too good to be true, but are there any silent rad fans on the market for $15 or less? These Swiftech Helix's I have are pretty awful, and since I'm going to be doing a rig update soon I figured I'd replace my rad fans in hopes of finally having a quiet system. BitFenix Spectre Pro's are $12 a piece and I found some Noiseblockers for $15 even, but will I need to simply pay more and get some Sythe GT's? I'm going to be buying 5 of whatever I end up choosing, and they have to be 120mm. Thanks in advance! :thnoiseblockwe


Bitfenix fans are utter garbage they will not push a decent amount of air and they will no be quiet if you actually do want them to push some air. If you can spend the money and want the best of the best the gentle typhoons would be your best option however, noiseblocker does make very good fans.


----------



## beele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devastater6194*
> 
> Talk about great minds thinking alike i'm planning a build almost identical except i will be placing the pump under the drive cages.
> Couple of questions. Do you think the tubing will still fit at the bottom of the 360mm rad if there was 2 hard drives installed in the bottom?
> Also would you say there is room up the top for push/pull?
> PS did you see your build got posted on EKs Facebook page? https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=573969529323749&set=a.288479541206084.77684.182927101761329&type=1&theater
> Congrats


Depends on the thickness of the tubing, my tubing would not allow for the second hdd drive to be installed.
As for top push pull, I dont know, might fit but that would be very close. It will probably depend on the heatsinks on the mobo, If they stick out to high...
Nice that they posted my build on their facebook page =D


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Get the GT AP-15s. Totally worth it


Overrated. AP31s for the win.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> so, martin's lab really doesn't show the Corsairs living up to the hype. So APs continue to be the champs. What a shame about the corsairs....


The only thing the SP's have over GT AP-15's/00's is they sell PWM versions now. It's too bad the regular GT's still don't have that option


----------



## Jakusonfire

I tried GT's and the distinctive whine bothered me. The Noise of the SP and eloops that replaced them is far easier to live with to me.
Although the SP's and eloops might register higher on a sound pressure guage to my ears the quality of the sound is better and more easily fades into white noise and background sound.


----------



## wermad

Is there a chart with voltage range for all these fans?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I tried GT's and the distinctive whine bothered me. The Noise of the SP and eloops that replaced them is far easier to live with to me.
> Although the SP's and eloops might register higher on a sound pressure guage to my ears the quality of the sound is better and more easily fades into white noise and background sound.


I have 3 GT's and 3 eLoop's in my system, quiet, high performing and looks great


----------



## ginger_nuts

So far the best fans I have came across are my current Arctic Cooling F12 PWM.

The fact that you can link up to six from one PWM source is almost as good as the price $9AUS









They also seem to have some great reviews if you hunt them out. The reviews not the great ones









What I am trying to say is the reviews and benches are difficult to find, they all seem to say the same thing.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Overrated. AP31s for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This. I have one AP-30 and one AP-31 (bought them for my dice cooling set-up) - extremely efficient fans, and well.. reasonably quiet








LOL


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Sorry, as new as I am to this, I have little idea what kind of money needs to be spent on a custom loop. By 'budget friendly' I mostly mean barebones, no excessive aesthetic flare. Just the most I can get with my money, bang for the buck.
> Much appreciated! I'll check it out.


Yeah the difference between barebones and flare will be a few hundred. But you will still probably spend several hundred. Here is my Arc Midi R2, I bought everything used because I'm a tight-wad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So far the best fans I have came across are my current Arctic Cooling F12 PWM.
> 
> The fact that you can link up to six from one PWM source is almost as good as the price $9AUS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They also seem to have some great reviews if you hunt them out. The reviews not the great ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I am trying to say is the reviews and benches are difficult to find, they all seem to say the same thing.


I had a few of the older model...they were,quite literally,garbage..

Out of the 4 i had,3 died within 3 months...and they didnt move the air thru the rad in any hurry either.


----------



## Ashuiegi

go for Alpenfohn or gentle typhoon, the Alpenfohn fans have a much better bundle and look 100x time better then gentle typhoon,....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> go for Alpenfohn or gentle typhoon, the Alpenfohn fans have a much better bundle and look 100x time better then gentle typhoon,....


I have a soft spot for the Alphafohn fans,very very good fans indeed.
Its a toss up between these,AP-15's and the Grand flex fans for my S3.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I tried GT's and the distinctive whine bothered me. The Noise of the SP and eloops that replaced them is far easier to live with to me.
> Although the SP's and eloops might register higher on a sound pressure guage to my ears the quality of the sound is better and more easily fades into white noise and background sound.


None of my GTs whine when in push or when undervolted. Selling off my pwm eLoops as I definitely prefer the AP-15s @ 5v.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I've got 12 AP14s in push/pull with no fan controller and love them but I had four deltas before...
So a leaf blower would be considered less noise


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Get the GT AP-15s. Totally worth it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I've read countless times that they're quiet, but just how quiet?


While they are quiet and great fans they have a very distinct hummm to them. If you are a silence freak this may bother you but I would imagine that undervolting them or running on a fan controller could change that completely.

I used to use Akasa Vipers run @ 800 rpm when I was water cooling and it was damn near silent. Case sitting right next to me I could not hear it at all.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> so, martin's lab really doesn't show the Corsairs living up to the hype. So APs continue to be the champs. What a shame about the corsairs....


I kinda guessed (unfortunately like a lot of Corsair products now) that they were alright, but not the best. I'm steadily losing faith in Corsair, except the Dominator GT's are always awesome







Honestly for fans, it's NoiseBlocker, Scythe, Noctua, or Gelid Wings, otherwise it might as well be nothing for me... With a few other exceptions.

-Zepp


----------



## szeged

radiators refuse to clean out properly, causes the PH of my water to go berserk and eat the red dye in my loop causing it to turn a dookie orange/brown.

any suggestions? both are xspc EX series rads. Also dont think im getting my xspc d5 pump clean enough, also probably eating the red dye.


----------



## Phishy714

Here's my first shot at making a nice cooling loop!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I tried GT's and the distinctive whine bothered me. The Noise of the SP and eloops that replaced them is far easier to live with to me.
> Although the SP's and eloops might register higher on a sound pressure guage to my ears the quality of the sound is better and more easily fades into white noise and background sound.
> 
> 
> 
> *None of my GTs whine when in push or when undervolted.* Selling off my pwm eLoops as I definitely prefer the AP-15s @ 5v.
Click to expand...

Its more down to the controller more than anything else......


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> None of my GTs whine when in push or when undervolted. Selling off my pwm eLoops as I definitely prefer the AP-15s @ 5v.


Yeah, the AP-15s only really have a whine at top speeds. And then, it really depends on your ear if the whine bothers you or not. The AP-15 whine honestly doesn't register much to me, but other fans' whines kill me, lol.

Still recommend running them on a fan controller so you can run them at lower speeds for most use and crank them up if necessary


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> radiators refuse to clean out properly, causes the PH of my water to go berserk and eat the red dye in my loop causing it to turn a dookie orange/brown.
> 
> any suggestions? both are xspc EX series rads. Also dont think im getting my xspc d5 pump clean enough, also probably eating the red dye.


How are you cleaning the rads?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> radiators refuse to clean out properly, causes the PH of my water to go berserk and eat the red dye in my loop causing it to turn a dookie orange/brown.
> 
> any suggestions? both are xspc EX series rads. Also dont think im getting my xspc d5 pump clean enough, also probably eating the red dye.


Lemme guess...Mayhems?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lemme guess...Mayhems?


You seem to have no love for Mayhem's, what coolant are you using?


----------



## Car17

What do you guys think?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lemme guess...Mayhems?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You seem to have no love for Mayhem's, what coolant are you using?
Click to expand...

DI and biocide.

The choice of champions


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DI and biocide.
> 
> The choice of champions


How do you adjust your PH levels to ensure you do not get corrosion on your loop? I like DI because it nets the best performance but given the mix metals I want to ensure I do not have any corrosion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DI and biocide.
> 
> The choice of champions
> 
> 
> 
> How do you adjust your PH levels to ensure you do not get corrosion on your loop? I like DI because it nets the best performance but given the mix metals I want to ensure I do not have any corrosion.
Click to expand...

I dont adjust the PH,its been up for nearly 2 years in Nov without maintenance too.
PH is being used as a smokescreen for other fails....

Also,you cant test DI water for PH,it doesnt work.

You can use this if you need it.



http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Anticorrosive-AntiCorro-Fluid-50ml-pid-11820.html

All my blocks are nickel with copper tube,nothing to worry about.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DI and biocide.
> 
> The choice of champions


Which biocide do you use as a matter of interest B?


----------



## nepToon

Nice and clean car17! I like it
Black/white is just beautiful


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont adjust the PH,its been up for nearly 2 years in Nov without maintenance too.
> PH is being used as a smokescreen for other fails....
> 
> *Also,you cant test DI water for PH,it doesnt work.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You can use this if you need it.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Anticorrosive-AntiCorro-Fluid-50ml-pid-11820.html
> 
> 
> 
> All my blocks are nickel with copper tube,nothing to worry about.


Not true.

Because of the lack of ions, testing DI water can be difficult but not impossible. You can use buffers (potassium chloride in this case) to accomplish measuring it. The potassium chloride doesn't shift pH and it helps prevent the formation of carbonic acid. Granted most people do not have access to this method on a regular basis, but it can be done.

However, as soon as you pop the cap off your bottle of DI water, it will no longer be 'pure' anymore. While it should be neutral (pH of 7), it often is slightly acidic after being exposed to air. When DI water comes into contact with air, it will pretty much instantly absorb CO2 which causes it to become acidic (formation of carbonic acid). This can cause your water to be even be as low as a 5 on the pH scale.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All my blocks are nickel with copper tube,nothing to worry about.


This.

If you are putting distilled water into a loop that has been properly flushed of all soldering materials (the only thing that can cause water to become acidic) then it's basically impossible for copper to affect distilled water in any way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Not true.
> 
> Because of the lack of ions, testing DI water can be difficult but not impossible. You can use buffers (potassium chloride in this case) to accomplish measuring it. The potassium chloride doesn't shift pH and it helps prevent the formation of carbonic acid. Granted most people do not have access to this method on a regular basis, but it can be done.
> 
> However, as soon as you pop the cap off your bottle of DI water, it will no longer be 'pure' anymore. While it should be neutral (pH of 7), it often is slightly acidic after being exposed to air. When DI water comes into contact with air, it will pretty much instantly absorb CO2 which causes it to become acidic (formation of carbonic acid). This can cause your water to be even be as low as a 5 on the pH scale.


I stand corrected.

Though, the distilled water I just tested that came out of my loop that was running for ~3 months had a pH of 6.9. Copper pipe for me.


----------



## Ashuiegi

not alpha , Alpenfoehn it s a german brand , not very old but they make the best quality/price fans by miles

http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en


----------



## hotrod717

I'm currently selling off some of my loop parts to help fund a new. I've been running 2 separate loops, 1 for cpu and 1 for gpu's. I'm looking at consolidating my d5's with one top. Here's the choice and the question: Should I run in series or should I stick with dual loops?
My thinking is that with dedicated loops, I'm isolating and I don't have heat transfer between the cpu and gpu. My gpu tops out at 42-44* benching and gaming, but the 3770k can get a bit hotter. I don't want that 50-70* water hitting my gpu. Will running 2 pumps in a single loop and putting a rad in between effectively take care of it? I will have a total of 4 rads., 2- RX360's, a RS240, and a RS120. Running a single will also save the expense of buying 2 reservoirs and a few fittings. I am in the process of binning some 7970's and will have 2 when it is said and done if you were wondering about all the rads. Maybe 2 -290X's a few months down the line.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I'm currently selling off some of my loop parts to help fund a new. I've been running 2 separate loops, 1 for cpu and 1 for gpu's. I'm looking at consolidating my d5's with one top. Here's the choice and the question: Should I run in series or should I stick with dual loops?
> My thinking is that with dedicated loops, I'm isolating and I don't have heat transfer between the cpu and gpu. My gpu tops out at 42-44* benching and gaming, but the 3770k can get a bit hotter. I don't want that 50-70* water hitting my gpu. Will running 2 pumps in a single loop and putting a rad in between effectively take care of it? I will have a total of 4 rads., 2- RX360's, a RS240, and a RS120. Running a single will also save the expense of buying 2 reservoirs and a few fittings. I am in the process of binning some 7970's and will have 2 when it is said and done if you were wondering about all the rads. Maybe 2 -290X's a few months down the line.


With your configuration and radiator surface area, I highly doubt that going with a dual-loop will net you more than a couple of degrees in cooling performance. I think you'd be better off just having everything in a single loop. It will be cheaper too.

The other thing that you have to realize is that just because your CPU registers a temp of 50 to 70 degrees doesn't mean that this is being added to the coolant temp. The coolant doesn't transfer heat like that from one component to the next. If it did work that way water cooling wouldn't be as effective as it is at heat dissipation and people would just stick to air cooling. The coolant running through your loop acts more like a single body of fluid and after a couple of revolutions through your loop the temperature evens out anyway.

I hope this helps to answer your question about whether or not a dual-loop configuration is better than a single-loop. Gabe put together a very good white paper about this subject and you can look at it on our website to see what his findings and conclusions were.


----------



## Ashuiegi

do you have water temp probe ? your water coming out of a block is barely 1C hotter then entering it , at least in my loop , i have temps probe at the inlet and outlet of my gpu block and when at max temp and full load i have 0,6 C of difference , i know these temp prob are not really accurate but i wont be 50-70 C for sure. the pump can't handle these temp too


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont adjust the PH,its been up for nearly 2 years in Nov without maintenance too.
> PH is being used as a smokescreen for other fails....
> 
> *Also,you cant test DI water for PH,it doesnt work.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You can use this if you need it.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Anticorrosive-AntiCorro-Fluid-50ml-pid-11820.html
> 
> 
> 
> All my blocks are nickel with copper tube,nothing to worry about.
> 
> 
> 
> Not true.
> 
> Because of the lack of ions, testing DI water can be difficult but not impossible. You can use buffers (potassium chloride in this case) to accomplish measuring it. The doesn't shift pH and it helps prevent the formation of carbonic acid. Granted most people do not have access to this method on a regular basis, but it can be done.
> 
> However, as soon as you pop the cap off your bottle of DI water, it will no longer be 'pure' anymore. While it should be neutral (pH of 7), it often is slightly acidic after being exposed to air. When DI water comes into contact with air, it will pretty much instantly absorb CO2 which causes it to become acidic (formation of carbonic acid). This can cause your water to be even be as low as a 5 on the pH scale.
Click to expand...

The use of buffers to measure PH is fine but no one has these laying around so for the layman.DI is not testable out of the bottle.
Also the KCl needs to be very pure and in a very small quantity....and....do you really want add an electrolyte salt in to a loop?

It will instantly absorb CO2,you are correct,but the interface is small and the PPM of CO2 in the bottle will be very minor.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> This.
> 
> If you are putting distilled water into a loop that has been properly flushed of all soldering materials (the only thing that can cause water to become acidic) then it's basically impossible for copper to affect distilled water in any way.
> I stand corrected.
> 
> Though, the distilled water I just tested that came out of my loop that was running for ~3 months had a pH of 6.9. Copper pipe for me.


You probably flushed the system well before use and I assume you used some biocides? The biocide solutions can often help balance the pH


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With your configuration and radiator surface area, I highly doubt that going with a dual-loop will net you more than a couple of degrees in cooling performance. I think you'd be better off just having everything in a single loop. It will be cheaper too.
> 
> The other thing that you have to realize is that just because your CPU registers a temp of 50 to 70 degrees doesn't mean that this is being added to the coolant temp. The coolant doesn't transfer heat like that from one component to the next. If it did work that way water cooling wouldn't be as effective as it is at heat dissipation and people would just stick to air cooling. The coolant running through your loop acts more like a single body of fluid and after a couple of revolutions through your loop the temperature evens out anyway.
> 
> I hope this helps to answer your question about whether or not a dual-loop configuration is better than a single-loop. Gabe put together a very good white paper about this subject and you can look at it on our website to see what his findings and conclusions were.


This!

I have both my 770's and my 4770k on the same loop and quite honestly the CPU does not generate enough heat to significantly increase the temperature of the fluid in my loop. I have tested this with multiple configurations, I have dual 480's and I have tried them in different positions such as going res, rad, cpu rad gpu to my current res, rad cpu, gpu, rad. And my coolant temperatures reach 32 while gaming, if Im benching the CPU my fluid temperatures hover around 26-28. Consolidating the loops (specially if you have the pumps in series) would not only be cheaper but gives you a bit of a fail safe as if one of the pumps fails you could still have some flow with the other pump depending on how you install.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah the difference between barebones and flare will be a few hundred. But you will still probably spend several hundred. Here is my Arc Midi R2, I bought everything used because I'm a tight-wad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks, this will be really useful. I am ready to spend several hundred, as I've got a few things I can easily sell for cash, I just need to start building a parts list. So I'll probably try piecing together all of the Arc Midi R2 loops I've seen into something that gives me the most for my money. btw, your build is really cool. I hope mine looks half as nice as that.


----------



## wermad

I tested an i7 3820 oc'd to 4.7 with *four* Fermi GTX 480 using DD blocks. I placed the cpu on the same loop before and after all four gpu(s). There was no significant difference in cpu temperatures. LGA2011 and quad Fermi GF100s are a real heat monster so if there was any theory behind cpu placement/order and thus requiring a separate loop, I didn't see any major evidence to justify this theory with my simple testing.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I tested an i7 3820 oc'd to 4.7 with *four* Fermi GTX 480 using DD blocks. I placed the cpu on the same loop before and after all four gpu(s). There was no significant difference in cpu temperatures. LGA2011 and quad Fermi GF100s are a real heat monster so if there was any theory behind cpu placement/order and thus requiring a separate loop, I didn't see any major evidence to justify this theory with my simple testing.


4x GTX 480s and no significant change in CPU temp? That tells me all I need to know about the importance of loop order (or lack thereof).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> 4x GTX 480s and no significant change in CPU temp? That tells me all I need to know about the importance of loop order (or lack thereof).


Order doesn't matter as far as thermals. There was probably 0.01°C difference between both (before and after the gpus) in my testing. And most likely because of the extra heat I was generating, it rose the ambient very slightly. Most know that order will not have an impact on temps. The only order we do suggest is to keep the pump after the reservoir in order to not starve the pump when you're filling up the loop.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Order doesn't matter as far as thermals. There was probably 0.01°C difference between both (before and after the gpus) in my testing. And most likely because of the extra heat I was generating, it rose the ambient very slightly. Most know that order will not have an impact on temps. The only order we do suggest is to keep the pump after the reservoir in order to not starve the pump when you're filling up the loop.


This is correct. Once you hit equilibrium, order doesn't matter.

Always have the res before pump and you should be good.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The use of buffers to measure PH is fine but *no one has these laying around* so for the layman.DI is not testable out of the bottle.
> Also the KCl needs to be very pure and in a very small quantity....and....*do you really want add an electrolyte salt in to a loop?*
> 
> It will instantly absorb CO2,you are correct,but the interface is small and the PPM of CO2 in the bottle will be very minor.


That is why I said that most people didn't have access to it at home.
And if you did, why wouldn't you take a sample from your res to test versus putting the buffer in your loop?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The use of buffers to measure PH is fine but *no one has these laying around* so for the layman.DI is not testable out of the bottle.
> Also the KCl needs to be very pure and in a very small quantity....and....*do you really want add an electrolyte salt in to a loop?*
> 
> It will instantly absorb CO2,you are correct,but the interface is small and the PPM of CO2 in the bottle will be very minor.
> 
> 
> 
> That is why I said that most people didn't have access to it at home.
> And if you did, why wouldn't you take a sample from your res to test versus putting the buffer in your loop?
Click to expand...

Because i have been doing this a long time,I have no need to test for PH,I dont run a colour and corrosion isnt an issue.

Now,if my loop was down for any length of time (think months),then i would be more concerned,stagnant water in a rad is a sure fire way to ruin it.


----------



## BonzaiTree

@PCSarge I know it's been answered, but Daz Mode! I'm in the process of putting together an order from him soon.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> radiators refuse to clean out properly, causes the PH of my water to go berserk and eat the red dye in my loop causing it to turn a dookie orange/brown.
> 
> any suggestions? both are xspc EX series rads. Also dont think im getting my xspc d5 pump clean enough, also probably eating the red dye.


What are you using to clean your rad?

If you're using vinegar or something it's obviously going to affect your PH (unless it's flushed out very well), and it's not recommended anymore anyways.

If you're boiling water, maybe try boiling distilled and flushing it through (if you've been using tap water) as your tap water PH could be off.

Then again, I'm an H20 nub so what do I know


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> While they are quiet and great fans they have a very distinct hummm to them. If you are a silence freak this may bother you but I would imagine that undervolting them or running on a fan controller could change that completely.
> 
> I used to use Akasa Vipers run @ 800 rpm when I was water cooling and it was damn near silent. Case sitting right next to me I could not hear it at all.


Just got some Noctua NF-S12A FLX's @ 700 rpm. drop dead silent, would recommend. cant even hear them @ 1200rpm


----------



## wermad

My R4s are running at 40% power, ~800rpm, and they're only slightly audible if you put your ear (carefully) next to one. I can drop the voltage further down but my controller doesn't go below 40%. Noisy at full 2k rpm 100% voltage though


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> @PCSarge I know it's been answered, but Daz Mode! I'm in the process of putting together an order from him soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you using to clean your rad?
> 
> If you're using vinegar or something it's obviously going to affect your PH (unless it's flushed out very well), and it's not recommended anymore anyways.
> 
> If you're boiling water, maybe try boiling distilled and flushing it through (if you've been using tap water) as your tap water PH could be off.
> 
> Then again, I'm an H20 nub so what do I know


I use hot tap water to flush and then flush with a couple of passes of distilled. Last time I tried the sysprep that came with my primochill tubing and it worked really well. It made enough to run my loop twice and I left each run for a couple of hours to ensure the crap was out. I have one more bottle which I will use to see if I can remove the gunk left on my tubing by Mayhem's Aurora.


----------



## Striker36

so I'm still looking for fans for my radiators. I stumbled across THESE Noctua NF-A14 FLXs this morning. is Noctua still one of the go to names for rad fans?

I'm thinking I could grab 6 of them for the 420 I have in the front to use in push-pull and 3 GTs for the 360 in the top.... and a couple cans of spray paint.

thoughts?

thanks guys
-Striker


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I dont adjust the PH,its been up for nearly 2 years in Nov without maintenance too.
> PH is being used as a smokescreen for other fails....
> 
> Also,you cant test DI water for PH,it doesnt work.
> 
> 
> 
> You can use this if you need it.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Anticorrosive-AntiCorro-Fluid-50ml-pid-11820.html
> 
> All my blocks are nickel with copper tube,nothing to worry about
> 
> 
> .


B Negative - Have you used this stuff? I had it in my first loop (together with 2 silver kill coils). I had tiny foam bubbles staying very long in my res and I had impression that my water was unclear.
I switched to DI water + biocide after that and I'm really happy with it (at least so far). Maybe anticorro is OK after all, I just wouldn't use it again.


----------



## _Killswitch_

This is Sort of a Watercooling thing, but I working a new build. I have a GTX 680 was going to grab another off ebay for SLI. Well even on Ebay 680 still around $300-350ish. Then I saw that GTX 770 is rougly 400-450. Well Decided to jump for SLI GTX 770 ACX 4gb instead. Why spend 300ish on 680 when little over 100 I can get the 770's that's faster than my 2gb 680.

wow rambling anyways I want to watercool them, just found out EK's 770 block's won't fit them due to something being slightly taller on the pcb (forgot what it was exactly). Guess question is does anyone know if EK is going to make adjusted to 770 full blocks to fit the ACX 770 4gb or if a person could machine the block themself's to fit properly?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> so I'm still looking for fans for my radiators. I stumbled across THESE Noctua NF-A14 FLXs this morning. is Noctua still one of the go to names for rad fans?
> 
> I'm thinking I could grab 6 of them for the 420 I have in the front to use in push-pull and 3 GTs for the 360 in the top.... and a couple cans of spray paint.
> 
> thoughts?
> 
> thanks guys
> -Striker


personally i use these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002 i have 2 in pull as rad fans, and one at 50% as a rear exhaust, they work wonderful


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My R4s are running at 40% power, ~800rpm, and they're only slightly audible if you put your ear (carefully) next to one. I can drop the voltage further down but my controller doesn't go below 40%. Noisy at full 2k rpm 100% voltage though


I agree here, the R4's on my HTPC are very quiet, not sire about air flow because playing videos is not a massive task for it.

But the R4's in the childrens PC can be very noisy, at the 2K they some air, but at the very expensive price of noise.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With your configuration and radiator surface area, I highly doubt that going with a dual-loop will net you more than a couple of degrees in cooling performance. I think you'd be better off just having everything in a single loop. It will be cheaper too.
> 
> The other thing that you have to realize is that just because your CPU registers a temp of 50 to 70 degrees doesn't mean that this is being added to the coolant temp. The coolant doesn't transfer heat like that from one component to the next. If it did work that way water cooling wouldn't be as effective as it is at heat dissipation and people would just stick to air cooling. The coolant running through your loop acts more like a single body of fluid and after a couple of revolutions through your loop the temperature evens out anyway.
> 
> I hope this helps to answer your question about whether or not a dual-loop configuration is better than a single-loop. Gabe put together a very good white paper about this subject and you can look at it on our website to see what his findings and conclusions were.


Thanks. I'll have a look at the website. I guess my only reservation would be that changing out hardware, mainly gpu's, will be more involved. Where there's a will, there's a way. I'm sure I'll figure out something to make it work.


----------



## DoktorTerror




----------



## Gdfthr248

Not my first loop but I saw some builds with the E22 Acrylic Tubing and had to try it. Hope you like it!

Bitfenix Prodigy with 3 windows
EVGA GTX770
i5-3570k at 4.2
Gigabyte z77n-wifi
8gb GSkill Sniper Ram
x2 Crucial M4 128gb SSD in Raid 0


----------



## Gdfthr248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*


Great looking rig, I love the acrylic tubing....wish I was as good of a photographer!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## PC Upgrade

Hi everyone, I am new to the forum

Check out thsese 2 projects coming from Greece

http://www.overclock.net/t/1435337/project-blue-lagoon

http://www.overclock.net/t/1435334/project-snowwhite


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> Hi everyone, I am new to the forum
> 
> Check out thsese 2 projects coming from Greece
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1435337/project-blue-lagoon
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1435334/project-snowwhite


first off, welcome to OCN









second, i really like that snowwhite build


----------



## PC Upgrade

Thank you









Next week i will post another project ''Red pepper" which i think will be the best of all.

Just a little sample


----------



## szeged

very nice, looks impressive already. I wish my work area looked like that lol, my garage really needs to be cleaned.\

have you considered using hard acrylic? im sure you could make it look really good.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## PC Upgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> very nice, looks impressive already. I wish my work area looked like that lol, my garage really needs to be cleaned.\
> 
> have you considered using hard acrylic? im sure you could make it look really good.


it is hard to find hard acrylic in greece and also i have never work with that. i know the result is very nice, we will see in the future.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> it is hard to find hard acrylic in greece and also i have never work with that. i know the result is very nice, we will see in the future.


Also, be aware that the Water Block that comes stock on the MVIF has Aluminum Channels.


----------



## Gomi

GIBSON finished


----------



## kpoeticg

Great job working with that space. I've always liked the look of that chassis


----------



## PC Upgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Also, be aware that the Water Block that comes stock on the MVIF has Aluminum Channels.


Yes i know but for now i will use the stock one because i could not find ek block from our local dealer.


----------



## steelkevin

@EK Reps

Hi,

It doesn't look like you're working on a 280X Toxic waterblock and the ASUS R9280X-DC2(T)-3GD5 just popped up for the same price as the Toxic (300€) and will be available sooner.
So although the Toxic appears to be the better card (it really wouldn't make much of a difference I guess) I'd like to know what blocks you're preparing for the DC2(T). I really want a Clean CSQ (or something other than CSQ so long as it's fully transparent and doesn't have circles all over it) transparent nikel block so if you could confirm which waterblocks will be available for the DC2(T) that would be great







.
We're getting closer to BF4's release and a friend just recieved his full loop so I'd really like to be able to order soon and put this old GTS 240 away







.

(the only thing that'd bother me with ordering now is that the R9s don't yet have the never settle bundle and we have no idea when they will and what games will be included, been holding off pre-ordering BF4 for that exact reason, and I don't know for sure but I doubt that people having purchased R9 cards before the bundle is available will be able to claim it. Correct me if I'm wrong on that one though)

I know that I could just get the Dual X or whatever that cheap Sapphire card is called for 245€ and slap a 7970 block on it but I wouldn't feel right having 7970 written on my 280X'es block and there are no Clear / Clean CSQ blocks for the 7970s anyway.

Thanks in advance







.


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

Do you think this is a overkill? i will take the 360 rad out if you think so as im going to mount the 360 rad externally.

res -> pump - 540 rad - pump - gpu - gpu - mobo - 120 rad - cpu - 360 rad - back to res.

is that too long? will 2 pumps in series be able to handle it

I will be using 2 d5 pump in series

i will be using a koolance RP-452X2 Dual res. However instead of connecting the 2 pump one after the other. I will connect it to a 540 rad.

see pic (that U bit which connects the 2 pumps together)


----------



## DrakeZ

just updated my loop, what do you guys think?









before


after


----------



## rickyman0319

what size ID is popular for you guys on barbs?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what size ID is popular for you guys on barbs?


I prefer the 7/16" ID / 5/8" OD tubing on 1/2" barbs. But the 1/2" ID is pretty popular for those that use compression fittings and the like. It looks a lot better but costs more.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> Do you think this is a overkill? i will take the 360 rad out if you think so as im going to mount the 360 rad externally.
> 
> res -> pump - 540 rad - pump - gpu - gpu - mobo - 120 rad - cpu - 360 rad - back to res.
> 
> is that too long? will 2 pumps in series be able to handle it
> 
> I will be using 2 d5 pump in series
> 
> i will be using a koolance RP-452X2 Dual res. However instead of connecting the 2 pump one after the other. I will connect it to a 540 rad.
> 
> see pic (that U bit which connects the 2 pumps together)


I'd connect the pumps one after the other personally. And 2 d5 can definitely handle that loop


----------



## Killa Cam

that's it. im ordering some norprene tubing


----------



## 3dMuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd connect the pumps one after the other personally. And 2 d5 can definitely handle that loop


^This. There's no point in going from pump to 540 rad then back to second pump. The difference in temps will not be worth it imho


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd connect the pumps one after the other personally. And 2 d5 can definitely handle that loop


any reason for d5 one after the other


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Much better looking Drake!


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> any reason for d5 one after the other


It's a safer setup, so if one pump fails, the other pump will still be pushing fluid through. As well, I think it can also help provide more consistent pressure throughout the loop.

-Zepp


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> @EK Reps
> 
> Hi,
> 
> It doesn't look like you're working on a 280X Toxic waterblock and the ASUS R9280X-DC2(T)-3GD5 just popped up for the same price as the Toxic (300€) and will be available sooner.
> So although the Toxic appears to be the better card (it really wouldn't make much of a difference I guess) I'd like to know what blocks you're preparing for the DC2(T). I really want a Clean CSQ (or something other than CSQ so long as it's fully transparent and doesn't have circles all over it) transparent nikel block so if you could confirm which waterblocks will be available for the DC2(T) that would be great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> We're getting closer to BF4's release and a friend just recieved his full loop so I'd really like to be able to order soon and put this old GTS 240 away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> (the only thing that'd bother me with ordering now is that the R9s don't yet have the never settle bundle and we have no idea when they will and what games will be included, been holding off pre-ordering BF4 for that exact reason, and I don't know for sure but I doubt that people having purchased R9 cards before the bundle is available will be able to claim it. Correct me if I'm wrong on that one though)
> 
> I know that I could just get the Dual X or whatever that cheap Sapphire card is called for 245€ and slap a 7970 block on it but I wouldn't feel right having 7970 written on my 280X'es block and there are no Clear / Clean CSQ blocks for the 7970s anyway.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It hasn't been determined as of this moment but it's a safe assumption there will be the 3 common variations we do for non-ref blocks. Clean CSQ nickel acetal, Clean CSQ nickel plexi, and then nickel plexi CSQ.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Thank you so much !

I'll order the card as soon as my account gets filled up again (gas station took 300€ @nd I've got to wait till Monday or Tuesday to get it back and I'm waiting for about 200€ to get to my account).
Feela like I've been waiting forever to upgrade


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> Do you think this is a overkill? i will take the 360 rad out if you think so as im going to mount the 360 rad externally.
> 
> res -> pump - 540 rad - pump - gpu - gpu - mobo - 120 rad - cpu - 360 rad - back to res.
> 
> is that too long? will 2 pumps in series be able to handle it
> 
> I will be using 2 d5 pump in series
> 
> i will be using a koolance RP-452X2 Dual res. However instead of connecting the 2 pump one after the other. I will connect it to a 540 rad.
> 
> see pic (that U bit which connects the 2 pumps together)


I use that res with the D5's in series in my external cooling module, and it'll be plenty powerful.

As suggested, there's no benefit to putting a rad between the pumps, just run them one into the next with the U-tube, . . but do not forget to change out the acrylic bit in the Pump 2 res for the series config one that comes with the U tube in the series kit.

When you run them in series, only the pump #1 side fills.

Darlene


----------



## LiquidHaus

updated my *Nazara* build log. check it out guys, lemme know what you think.


----------



## Buehlar

Useless? did you misspell *usefullness*?
Awesomeness


----------



## briddell

Black sleeve with white shrink is oddly arousing.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Useless? did you misspell *usefullness*?
> Awesomeness


haha its a sticker from a group of car guys i've known for years. low n slow style. laying frame volkswagens and such.


----------



## Buehlar

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you...

...The ROG LAIR...


----------



## kpoeticg

Is that U-Channel around the window or is that a factory window? I'm asking cuz if it's U-Channel, I'd love to know how u got it to take the paint that nicely.


----------



## Buehlar

No, it's the factory plastic trim, just painted it and replaced the factory mesh window with a 1/4" solid piece of Lexan


----------



## kpoeticg

Cool. I actually read through a bunch of your build log not too long ago. I like your setup alot. When you're posting pics of it you should show more of the inside too though =)


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So I gotta ask, is it hard to bleed a loop with black tubing and a clear res? I ordered all my parts for my sig rig/build log but never thought about the difficulty of bleeding it till now









This is my first watercooled pc btw


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So I gotta ask, is it hard to bleed a loop with black tubing and a clear res? I ordered all my parts for my sig rig/build log but never thought about the difficulty of bleeding it till now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first watercooled pc btw


i just redid my loop to switch out some waterblocks, if yours is anything like mine, just give it about 8 hours of running and itll bleed itself no problems. I got mine set up, left it on overnight to leak test and bleed, came back in the morning, no air bubbles in any of the blocks or tubing. no leaks either









i think the main thing that gets air bubbles in them, for me anyways, are gpu blocks, but nothing to worry about really, get EK plexi blocks so you can see the air bubbles go away


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i just redid my loop to switch out some waterblocks, if yours is anything like mine, just give it about 8 hours of running and itll bleed itself no problems. I got mine set up, left it on overnight to leak test and bleed, came back in the morning, no air bubbles in any of the blocks or tubing. no leaks either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think the main thing that gets air bubbles in them, for me anyways, are gpu blocks, but nothing to worry about really, get EK plexi blocks so you can see the air bubbles go away


Ah ok cool







, I was thinking of setting it up and run it over night to bleed anyway









Nah no plexi for me, I havent even got a GPU block coz Im unsure if I'll switch to a 780 yet







, all my blocks are gonna be nickel


----------



## thestache

Just adding the finishing touches.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-build-log-custom-solidworks-designed-cnc-machined-acetal-case-gtx-titans-ek-watercooling/110#post_21021292


----------



## szeged

looks great. love it


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> looks great. love it


Thanks mate.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Just adding the finishing touches.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1400587/case-build-log-custom-solidworks-designed-cnc-machined-acetal-case-gtx-titans-ek-watercooling/110#post_21021292


Custom design, nice and clean







I love benches. The only reason I have a case is dust


----------



## Joyride

Just finished my build. Silverstone FT02 watercooled Rampage IV Extreme 4280K. Hope you guys like it!


----------



## szeged

looks nice, like the color you chose for the coolant.


----------



## Joyride

Thanks, its actually a little more deeper green than in the photo but it looks cool in the dark. Here's what it looks like with the LEDs off:


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joyride*
> 
> Just finished my build. Silverstone FT02 watercooled Rampage IV Extreme 4280K. Hope you guys like it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like it, good work!


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I really like it, good work!


^This.


----------



## GhostDog99

Why do you have the 6pin in the Mobo
You it dos not help at all
Only with 3 or more cards and even than
Not really that much

Rig looks good but would look even better
With out that 6pin there


----------



## snef

little update from Sand of God


----------



## szeged

looks great


----------



## Maximus Knight

ermagurd Snef!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> RMA the card. I lost 2 b/c of a leak and had new ones within the week replaced for only the cost of me shipping the cards. You seem to get better service with a Titan than other parts.


My RMA took 30 days.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> little update from Sand of God
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good snef....I was wondering what the sleeving and coolant color you were looking for in the mayhems thread was for. If it goes the way I think it will then it gonna be freakin awesome!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looking good snef....I was wondering what the sleeving and coolant color you were looking for in the mayhems thread was for. If it goes the way I think it will then it gonna be freakin awesome!


Thanks

paint and sleeving are exact same color, very lucky on this one

still working on coolant, pretty close but just miss a little touch, waiting for order to fix this

will ask in mayhem thread just for sure


----------



## hotrod717

Looks like I should have some pics to post soon. Just closed a deal on a MM U2-UFO from another ocn member and ordered a dual D5 2 loop top. I'm probably going to connect and run in series. Couldn't pass it up. Got it for $70 bnib. Not sure if I'm going to use my DD Rad Res or order a multioption link, tube, ect. Unfortunately the largest size tube available that will work with this is 140mm. I've had a rough bench for a while now and can't wait to actually put a bonafide build together.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joyride*
> 
> Just finished my build. Silverstone FT02 watercooled Rampage IV Extreme 4280K. Hope you guys like it!






I politely demand pictures of that reservoir in the front, I know it's a FrozenQ but I just want to STARE at it.

-Zepp


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Why do you have the 6pin in the Mobo
> You it dos not help at all
> Only with 3 or more cards and even than
> Not really that much
> 
> Rig looks good but would look even better
> With out that 6pin there


Because when I bench with my GTX Titan it's pulling +450watts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Custom design, nice and clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love benches. The only reason I have a case is dust


Thanks mate.

I just been using a can of compressed air once every two weeks. Solves the problem for me. I want a small air compressor and then it'll make it even easier.


----------



## szeged

i would use an open air bench setup as well, but two long hair cats have decided i should probably go with closed case rigs lol.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Because when I bench with my GTX Titan it's pulling +450watts.
> Thanks mate.
> 
> I just been using a can of compressed air once every two weeks. Solves the problem for me. *I want a small air compressor and then it'll make it even easier.*


I have one of them cheap GMC air compressors from Bunnings, cost a total of something like $60-$70 dollars. Having 3 computers, it has paid for itself already, let alone cleaning other peoples computers for them







for a small price. Usually food


----------



## szeged

i need to get a good air purifier, if i clean the dust filters on my 900D they go back to being extremely dirty within a day lol. another reason i dont do open air benchs.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Because when I bench with my GTX Titan it's pulling +450watts.
> Thanks mate.
> 
> still dos not matter I have 2 780s and I bench them
> @ 1400 /3700 1.35v and I still ding need the 6pin


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Because when I bench with my GTX Titan it's pulling +450watts.
> Thanks mate.


I assume you mean the entire system power consumption. With Prime95 running and my GTX780 running @ 1360/3200 my power consumption is 450W from the wall. Assuming 90% that is 405W of DC power being used from the PSU.


----------



## szeged

titan with hacked voltages can pull 450+ watts alone.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> titan with hacked voltages can pull 450+ watts alone.


No way. A Titan pulls maybe 12% more than a GTX780. And my figures above are w/ 1.325V. Everyone should spend $20 on a power meter to show their actual usage. They would soon realize they don't need 1000/1500W PSUs anymore.

As for cleaning a bench or any rig, if you don't have a DataVac you are doing it wrong.


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> titan with hacked voltages can pull 450+ watts alone.


Even with 2x 8-pin connectors, you are electrically bound to 300W at 12V, 4.2Amps (double the 2.1 Amps of a 6 pin connector). You can't pull 450W if the power delivered can't exceed 300W.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> titan with hacked voltages can pull 450+ watts alone.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Even 2x 8-pin connectors, you electrically bound to 300W at 12V, 4.2Amps (double the 2.1 Amps of a 6 pin connector). You can't pull 450W if the power delivered can't exceed 300W.


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*


That's a VRM soldered on, and doesn't support anymore 8 pin connectors to draw more than the 300W. It might reduce noise a whole lot, but it is still only 300W.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Why does it have 3 6 pin inputs then?


----------



## briddell

3 6 pin? That's 75W per, or 225W - a step down. If you can run your 8 pin connectors with it, sure, then that's pretty great, but otherwise, you're losing Wattage.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Ah I see. 6 Pin vs 8 pin continues to confuse me. LIke this:


The 2 extra pins are just spliced off the 6 pin connector, how does that provide more power overall? Unless its the crimp itself that's limiting power delivery?


----------



## briddell

Ideally, you wouldn't have the +2 splitting off of the main 6 pin, but that is why it is called a 6+2 pin connector. An 8 pin provides 3 +12V lines at 4.2 Amps, 3 0V lines, and Sense 0 and 1, while a 6 pin connector gives 3 +12V lines, 3 0V lines, but at 2.1 Amps.


----------



## SeeThruHead

So if a 6+2 pin can deliver the same power as an 8 pin, couldn't an 8 pin deliver more power as well? Then add that to extra power connections for PCIE power that most high end mobos have. It could reach 450 watts of power delivered. Sorry I'm just not understanding why one card couldn't pull 450 watt. How much would you say a card kingpin runs under ln2 on its own PSU pulls? or the Galaxy HOF clocks at 1.85GHZ/7.4GHZ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> titan with hacked voltages can pull 450+ watts alone.
> 
> 
> 
> Even with 2x 8-pin connectors, you are electrically bound to 300W at 12V, 4.2Amps (double the 2.1 Amps of a 6 pin connector). You can't pull 450W if the power delivered can't exceed 300W.
Click to expand...

Total pull is 375w with 2x 8 pins,the PCI-e slot provides the extra 75w.....
Its not the watts thats important,the amperage is what matters

If its a dirty great single rail then as long as the wires can take it,240w per yellow wire,then it will supply it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Can anybody confirm for me whether or not the Koolance 360 Rad Shroud HERE is 32mm deep on the inside?

For instance, does it cover a 25mm fan plus 7mm of rad space? I'm kind of tight on space on the build i'm doing so i need to get the dimensions right =)


----------



## PC Upgrade

Parts

Case: Thermaltake Chaser A31
PSU: Thermaltake Smart 630
Mobo: Asus Maximus V formula
CPU: Intel i7 3770k
VGA: Asus GTX 660ti
Ram: 8gb kit Corsair Dominator @ 2000Mhz
SSD: Intel 320 80gb
HDD: Seagte 1tb

Watercooling parts:
EK - ALPHACOOL - CORSAIR - Primochill









I did not notice the quality of the pictures,tomorrow i will post in better quality.


----------



## PC Upgrade

Parts

Case: NZXT Phantom 410
PSU: Xilense XP750.CS.R3
Mobo: Asus Sabertooth z77
CPU: Intel i7 3770k
VGA: Asus GTX 770
Ram: 16gb kit Kingston Hyper X Beast @ 2400Mhz
SSD: OCZ 120gb vertex 3 + Intel 320 60gb
HDD: Seagte 1tb

Watercooling parts:
EK - ALPHACOOL - CORSAIR - MAYHEMS







I did not notice the quality of the pictures,tomorrow i will post in better quality.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Can anybody confirm for me whether or not the Koolance 360 Rad Shroud HERE is 32mm deep on the inside?
> 
> For instance, does it cover a 25mm fan plus 7mm of rad space? I'm kind of tight on space on the build i'm doing so i need to get the dimensions right =)


According to Specialtech shop it's 48cm x 20.2cm x 3cm - so probably about 25 - 27mm internal height


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanks for the reply. But that's the 3.140 you linked to. Not the 3.120. FrozenCPU shows the 3.140 as 30mm deep and the 3.120 as 32mm deep. That's why i was asking. Sounds strange, but that extra 2mm could actually help me a little bit =P


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. But that's the 3.140 you linked to. Not the 3.120. FrozenCPU shows the 3.140 as 30mm deep and the 3.120 as 32mm deep. That's why i was asking. Sounds strange, but that extra 2mm could actually help me a little bit =P


Sorry.. quick look is too quick









Your original measurements are correct except you'll need to minus the thickness of the shroud from the 32mm external height


----------



## StephenP85

New to this forum, so better late than never. Here's my "entry" into the club:

Heatkiller full-cover blocks and backplates for 7970s
XSPC Raystorm CPU block
2 x Alphacool ST 30 rads (thanks to a generous donation by rationalthinking)
Swiftech MCP35X pump
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 Inline Reservoir
9 x Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans

And here are pics:


I didn't take any photos of the basement, but it's holding one of the radiators. Behind that is my pump, which is decoupled simply by suspending it in mid-air by the tubing coming from the res.


----------



## 3dMuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StephenP85*
> 
> New to this forum, so better late than never. Here's my "entry" into the club:
> 
> Heatkiller full-cover blocks and backplates for 7970s
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block
> 2 x Alphacool ST 30 rads (thanks to a generous donation by rationalthinking)
> Swiftech MCP35X pump
> Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 Inline Reservoir
> 9 x Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans
> 
> And here are pics:
> 
> 
> I didn't take any photos of the basement, but it's holding one of the radiators. Behind that is my pump, which is decoupled simply by suspending it in mid-air by the tubing coming from the res.


She's a beauty!


----------



## rickyman0319

how do u guys clean dye in the waterblock? what do u use to clean it?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how do u guys clean dye in the waterblock? what do u use to clean it?


A good cleaner for copper blocks is ketchup


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> A good cleaner for copper blocks is ketchup


what about nickel block like supreme hf or supremacy?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StephenP85*
> 
> New to this forum, so better late than never. Here's my "entry" into the club:
> 
> Heatkiller full-cover blocks and backplates for 7970s
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block
> 2 x Alphacool ST 30 rads (thanks to a generous donation by rationalthinking)
> Swiftech MCP35X pump
> Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 Inline Reservoir
> 9 x Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans
> 
> And here are pics:


Did you paint your Motherboard Vram heatsink?


----------



## protzman

people say like 1 part vinegar to 4 pts water or something like that and use a toothbrush


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> people say like 1 part vinegar to 4 pts water or something like that and use a toothbrush


what do u mean 1 part vinegar to 4 pts water?


----------



## kpoeticg

He means, say if you're soaking it in 5 qt's of water (just an example), 1qt vinegar/4qts water


----------



## StephenP85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3dMuk*
> 
> She's a beauty!


Thanks, I'm particularly proud of this build. I've been into WC for the last decade, and I must say my aesthetics have improved since I was just a dumb teenager screwing around with the old-school WC parts. This pic is of my first WC build ever:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Did you paint your Motherboard Vram heatsink?


Yes, it's a Z87 MPower, as you probably already knew. I love the board, just didn't like the yellow trim, so I removed the heatsinks and had to use a heatgun to separate the yellow piece from the rest of it. Used a metallic silver from rustoleum, followed by a few coats of clear enamel.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what do u mean 1 part vinegar to 4 pts water?


like a vinegar water mix. for every X amount of vinegar you put 4 times the amnt of water


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> like a vinegar water mix. for every X amount of vinegar you put 4 times the amnt of water


so if 2 quart of vinegars I put 8 quarts of water, is that correct?


----------



## protzman

Yep! thats alot of liquid tho haha you could tone it down. Im not sure if its 4 to 1 but it really wouldnt matter you just dont want only vinegar thats bad for the blocks


----------



## Anoxy

Quick noob question incoming. I have an old PSU that I was going to sell on craigslist....but first, will I need it for any reason when installing my first custom loop?


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quick noob question incoming. I have an old PSU that I was going to sell on craigslist....but first, will I need it for any reason when installing my first custom loop?


Yes, you still can use it for run pump when you do a leak test


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> Yes, you still can use it for run pump when you do a leak test


Thank you, I thought I saw something about needing it for a leak test. Just had to make sure before letting it go.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Looking for some grey or silver coolant? Can someone suggest a good brand and maybe some info on additives? thanks.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StephenP85*
> 
> Thanks, I'm particularly proud of this build. I've been into WC for the last decade, and I must say my aesthetics have improved since I was just a dumb teenager screwing around with the old-school WC parts. This pic is of my first WC build ever:


I also used a chevette heater core for my first WC build 10 years ago.









I used hot pink sleeving instead of green though.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Looking for some grey or silver coolant? Can someone suggest a good brand and maybe some info on additives? thanks.


Maybe you can play around with mayhem pastel
mix the white pastel with black for the grey

with silver I think mayhem also have one in their aurora product line, but its not recommended for daily use though
only for display and short term use


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Looking for some grey or silver coolant? Can someone suggest a good brand and maybe some info on additives? thanks.


HOW TO MAKE PASTEL GRAY
Linked from the first page of the Mayhems Users Club


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> Yes, you still can use it for run pump when you do a leak test
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, I thought I saw something about needing it for a leak test. Just had to make sure before letting it go.
Click to expand...

You don't need to use the old PSU you could just jump the new one you are currently using for a leak test


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Maybe you can play around with mayhem pastel
> mix the white pastel with black for the grey
> 
> with silver I think mayhem also have one in their aurora product line, but its not recommended for daily use though
> only for display and short term use


White and black don't make grey in coolants lol. The blacks are actually purple so u end up with a purple....and not a good purple.

For grey, start with white pastel then add green and red dyes. I think 5 drops green to 1 drop red was the ratio but I do not remember exactly


----------



## kpoeticg

It was 11 Emerald Green to 1 Red. The video's halfway down the page I linked to









THIS is a link str8 to the youtube video if you don't feel like scrolling down the page

The vidz pretty much just a demo starting with Pastel White, and a bottle of Emerald Green dye and Red dye
He adds 10 green drops, then 1 red drop, then 1 more green drop for a gray Pastel
Then he adds 11 more green and 1 more red for a darker gray, and does that like 5 or 6 more times to show you darker gray's


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It was 11 Emerald Green to 1 Red. The video's halfway down the page I linked to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THIS is a link str8 to the youtube video if you don't feel like scrolling down the page


Lol 11 to 1 sounds right...thanks for clarifying


----------



## kpoeticg

NP. I'm curious what the mix would be for a nice Gray Pastel that glows a nice Red under UV. Wonder if any1's already taken the guesswork outta that for me =P. That would be nice for my RIVE BE build


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> NP. I'm curious what the mix would be for a nice Gray Pastel that glows a nice Red under UV. Wonder if any1's already taken the guesswork outta that for me =P. That would be nice for my RIVE BE build


It isn't possible. You will only ever get UV with the white uv they sell AFAIK. The nano particles prevent it.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Maybe you can play around with mayhem pastel
> mix the white pastel with black for the grey
> 
> with silver I think mayhem also have one in their aurora product line, but its not recommended for daily use though
> only for display and short term use


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> HOW TO MAKE PASTEL GRAY
> Linked from the first page of the Mayhems Users Club


Nice, there is hope. Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## Mayhem

Were working on more UV effects. We now have UV Lime Yellow (green under UV Light). You can have a UV Red (well uv pink tbh) how ever i will warn you now it will stain your whole system, your tubes, your blocks, your tubing and every thing ...... and it will not come off no matter how hard you try ... So if you would like some of the best advise ever for Pastel UV Red (effect) ... Don't do it ....


----------



## PCSarge

mmmm that watercooled prodigy...


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> You don't need to use the old PSU you could just jump the new one you are currently using for a leak test


How would I do that?


----------



## Tnt6200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> How would I do that?


Connect the green wire on the 24-pin to any of the black ones with a paper clip.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It isn't possible. You will only ever get UV with the white uv they sell AFAIK. The nano particles prevent it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were working on more UV effects. We now have UV Lime Yellow (green under UV Light). You can have a UV Red (well uv pink tbh) how ever i will warn you now it will stain your whole system, your tubes, your blocks, your tubing and every thing ...... and it will not come off no matter how hard you try ... So if you would like some of the best advise ever for Pastel UV Red (effect) ... Don't do it ....


I knew it took alot of UV Dye for Pastel, guess I didn't realize just how much. Also I knew the UV Pink stains badly (You guys have disclaimers everywhere which i appreciate







) but I had no idea that it didn't come off with cleaning. Thanx for letting me know that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Good to know as all I have left to get is coolant, res and pump . Then off to flushing (with the home depot tubing) and then installing with a mix of some other LRT (primochill) tubing I picked up on a good deal (two different "colors"). Just still up in the air on the coolant to use, mainly one that won't clog my system.


----------



## kpoeticg

If the LRT you bought isn't Advanced LRT you need to be careful about Coolants and Dye's cuz you're gonna have plasticizer issue's


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> White and black don't make grey in coolants lol. The blacks are actually purple so u end up with a purple....and not a good purple.
> 
> For grey, start with white pastel then add green and red dyes. I think 5 drops green to 1 drop red was the ratio but I do not remember exactly


lol I fail so much
guess my color mixing ability stuck from elementary school

anyway he got the idea









I've never play around with mayhem, dont wanna risk the gunk possibility


----------



## kpoeticg

Here's a good chart to use as a base for mixing dye colors. I got it from HERE


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> mmmm that watercooled prodigy...


Thats the silver coolant I'm looking for. How did you achieve the color?


----------



## kpoeticg

^^ Look in the res. That's silver tubing with Green Coolant. I do like the way that Silver looks though


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ^^ Look in the res. That's silver tubing with Green Coolant. I do like the way that Silver looks though


Found the silver tubing, but not available on 3/4x1/2.


----------



## kpoeticg

Which tubing is it?


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Found the silver tubing, but not available on 3/4x1/2.


It is:



This is what I used: Tygon Silver Antimicrobial Tubing - 1/2" ID (3/4" OD)


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, love the color, wish it wasn't made with actual Silver though. Wonder if it's really Plasticizer free like the Norprene tubing


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got my watercooling stuff











But I forgot a fillport plug and the acrylic top for my pump and res
















Also the res is covered in that pic


----------



## hotrod717

Hot damn, I lucked out on a second DD Rad Res. I'm sorry, I don't think any of the newer "clone" reserviors have the style that this oldie but goodie has.



Now I have two!


----------



## kpoeticg

Sweet!!! That means you can spare one


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sweet!!! That means you can spare one


Haha! These are hard to come by. Bnib too! Only issue is the acrylic hangers are extremely brittle. But, there are plenty of manufact. that offer 50mm holders.
Going to look great in my MM U2-UFO. And I thought I was having a bad day.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ^^ Look in the res. That's silver tubing with Green Coolant. I do like the way that Silver looks though


not technically "green coolant" it just goes opaque in camera shots, its distilled water in a 90/10 mix with antifreeze

been doing it this way for a very long time, coolant rotation is once every year and a half, with no block gumming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Damn, love the color, wish it wasn't made with actual Silver though. Wonder if it's really Plasticizer free like the Norprene tubing


its plasticizer free, ive used it in many builds for others with no plasticizer issues whatsoever

it is indeed the tygon silver. i love it to death, but so hard to find retailers with it in stock

P.S : that tubing routing was about 2 hours of scraping knuckles to get it all in. was nearly pulling my hair out at the end i also very sublty drilled a hole for my fillport in the top of the case. the black bitspower fillport matches like a dream.


----------



## Maximus Knight

How bout spraying the tubing silver then..?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> How bout spraying the tubing silver then..?


wont work out the same. tygon got it right somehow.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well, if you're just using DI it works out nicely cuz the Silver kills bacteria. Not sure how it would work out with a coolant like Pastel though. The only reason i like the tubing for my build would be to run Pastel Red through it for my RIVE BE build to give my loop a Silver/Red scheme.

That Prodigy build looks sick tho. Props!!


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I have one of them cheap GMC air compressors from Bunnings, cost a total of something like $60-$70 dollars. Having 3 computers, it has paid for itself already, let alone cleaning other peoples computers for them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for a small price. Usually food


Nice I might check out Bunnings sooner than I thought then. Reliable? Those the handheld ones or the regular style ones?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I assume you mean the entire system power consumption. With Prime95 running and my GTX780 running @ 1360/3200 my power consumption is 450W from the wall. Assuming 90% that is 405W of DC power being used from the PSU.


Nope the card itself pulls +450watts with 1.36v and no LLC. I have a AX1200i, when setup with Corsair Link it tells you how much power your system is pulling.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Which tubing is it?


I found silver koolance tubing from performance pc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> It is:
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I used: Tygon Silver Antimicrobial Tubing - 1/2" ID (3/4" OD)


I can't believe it was on frozen cpu this whole time. Thanks for the link.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> How bout spraying the tubing silver then..?


I'm not sure how effective spray painting would be for tubing. You can most definitely dye it though. I've been considering it since i've been planning on ordering more dye for my fans anyway


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> No way. A Titan pulls maybe 12% more than a GTX780. And my figures above are w/ 1.325V. Everyone should spend $20 on a power meter to show their actual usage. They would soon realize they don't need 1000/1500W PSUs anymore.


THIS.

But still, 1000W are for SLI/Xfire. Also, they look so damn nice, especially the AX1200
Seriously though, larger PSU's tend to be more efficient and silent when delivering lower voltages... That would a good enough reason to use them.


----------



## szeged

come to the titan owners thread and let us know how titans cant pull 400+


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If the LRT you bought isn't Advanced LRT you need to be careful about Coolants and Dye's cuz you're gonna have plasticizer issue's


it says its the pro lrt anti-microbial I saw the advanced just was hard to pass this up for as low as it was, which if this is one to have issues then that might be why.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, I'm not even sure if they make Pro LRT anymore because of the plasticizer issues with it. You def shouldn't use any kind of Pastel with it


----------



## DarthBaggins

That I did know on the pastels, I didn't see/hear good things about using them with the xspc CPU blocks, now if that's true I'm not sure. Also I still have the receipt so I can exchange it for the advanced, which I'd love to run a purple pastel but if it's going to cause a problem I won't use it just since this will be my first water build.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Good to know as all I have left to get is coolant, res and pump . Then off to flushing (with the home depot tubing) and then installing with a mix of some other LRT (primochill) tubing I picked up on a good deal (two different "colors"). Just still up in the air on the coolant to use, mainly one that won't clog my system.


Most every fluid will not clog your system (more info below).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> lol I fail so much
> guess my color mixing ability stuck from elementary school
> 
> anyway he got the idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've never play around with mayhem, dont wanna risk the gunk possibility


Fluids do not always follow the rules from color mixing from elementary school because light (reflection, absorption) plays a bigger role. Also the whole thing where it is really difficult or near impossible to make a true black.

None of Mayhem's products will gunk up your system. Most of the issues that were reported were plasticizer in the tubes and the coolants (with color) just dye the pasticizer and makes it easier to spot. If you use acrylic, norprene, or a plasticizer free tube, then you will not have any issues with gunk.

The only Mayhem product that might cause any issues with any type of clogging is the Aurora because that has all these little particles that can get stuck places. That coolant is intended for special purposes like shows and lan parties to show off your system and is not recommended for long term use, as clearly stated on their product page.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> it says its the pro lrt anti-microbial I saw the advanced just was hard to pass this up for as low as it was, which if this is one to have issues then that might be why.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, I'm not even sure if they make Pro LRT anymore because of the plasticizer issues with it. You def shouldn't use any kind of Pastel with it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That I did know on the pastels, I didn't see/hear good things about using them with the xspc CPU blocks, now if that's true I'm not sure. Also I still have the receipt so I can exchange it for the advanced, which I'd love to run a purple pastel but if it's going to cause a problem I won't use it just since this will be my first water build.


Don't use the PRO LRT, you will have plasticizers. And it isn't just Mayhems products either. I had primochill's fluid in their PRO LRT and the plasticizer was really bad after a couple months. And it will happen with plain old DI water too

The plasticizer again is not from any specific fluid. It is from any fluid flowing through the tubes which begins to break down the tubing wall that causes it to leak plasticizer. You will get this with any fluid you use...colored fluids just make it easier to spot because it dyes the plasticizer and your fluid gets stripped of the color


----------



## cyphon

double post...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Awesome, looks like I'll be exchanging it later this week once I can make it over to that side of town again. Last thing I want is issues on this build.


----------



## RickRockerr

I put red led in my reservoir but the light just shined everywhere so I painted the plug







Paint work isn't very good because my cat knocked the plug down when it was drying.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks good


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Most every fluid will not clog your system (more info below).
> Fluids do not always follow the rules from color mixing from elementary school because light (reflection, absorption) plays a bigger role. Also the whole thing where it is really difficult or near impossible to make a true black.
> 
> None of Mayhem's products will gunk up your system. Most of the issues that were reported were plasticizer in the tubes and the coolants (with color) just dye the pasticizer and makes it easier to spot. If you use acrylic, norprene, or a plasticizer free tube, then you will not have any issues with gunk.
> 
> The only Mayhem product that might cause any issues with any type of clogging is the Aurora because that has all these little particles that can get stuck places. That coolant is intended for special purposes like shows and lan parties to show off your system and is not recommended for long term use, as clearly stated on their product page.
> 
> Don't use the PRO LRT, you will have plasticizers. And it isn't just Mayhems products either. I had primochill's fluid in their PRO LRT and the plasticizer was really bad after a couple months. And it will happen with plain old DI water too
> 
> The plasticizer again is not from any specific fluid. It is from any fluid flowing through the tubes which begins to break down the tubing wall that causes it to leak plasticizer. You will get this with any fluid you use...colored fluids just make it easier to spot because it dyes the plasticizer and your fluid gets stripped of the color


Primochill fixed this, that's why they now sell Advanced LRT. I've been running it in my LD for months and no plasticizee build up.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Primochill fixed this, that's why they now sell Advanced LRT. I've been running it in my LD for months and no plasticizee build up.


Yep they did. Someone mentioned they bought the PRO however and wanted to give the disclaimer. There were also some notions that specific fluids were the problem which is also not the case


----------



## DarthBaggins

This is why I subbed to this section so I don't end up ticked about my first water build, but yeah the pro I got is def. going back


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That Prodigy build looks sick tho. Props!!


thanks man







got some healing scraped knuckles from that one. tight spaces and no work gloves around. if i ever do it again im investing in knuckle guards.

and i dont exactly have big hands either.


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, another question about route planning for my upcoming watercooling build.

Just for the sake of route planning, will it hurt anything to have the flow running UP from the bottom of the GPU's into the CPU? and out to a radiator.
So essentially, the flow direction starting at the bottom radiator is Rad->Bottom GPU->Top GPU->CPU->OUT (only part of the loop I'm concerned with ATM)


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, another question about route planning for my upcoming watercooling build.
> 
> Just for the sake of route planning, will it hurt anything to have the flow running UP from the bottom of the GPU's into the CPU? and out to a radiator.
> So essentially, the flow direction starting at the bottom radiator is Rad->Bottom GPU->Top GPU->CPU->OUT (only part of the loop I'm concerned with ATM)


Just reservoir before the pump is the main rule.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Just reservoir before the pump is the main rule.


Gotcha. Quick and simple. Thanks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, another question about route planning for my upcoming watercooling build.
> 
> Just for the sake of route planning, will it hurt anything to have the flow running UP from the bottom of the GPU's into the CPU? and out to a radiator.
> So essentially, the flow direction starting at the bottom radiator is Rad->Bottom GPU->Top GPU->CPU->OUT (only part of the loop I'm concerned with ATM)


Nope, it won't matter.


----------



## PCSarge

loop order doesnt matter at all besides the res/pump rule, nothing else applies, hell mine goes PUMP>CPU>RAD>GPU>RES>PUMP


----------



## Destrto

Thanks guys. Appreciate the input.


----------



## bundymania

There is always a guy with a bigger.......................................radiator than yours !


----------



## JohnnyEars

WOW Bundy!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Don't think it's big enough, lol


----------



## Thrasher1016

Is it possible to fan that puppy up, or you gonna run it passive inside a massive cooler unit?!

Thanks - T


----------



## WebsterXC

The fans attach to the inside. Those things hold 24 140mm fans plus a 180mm on the top.









I remember when Frozen got one of these in stock. The finish is so wonderful I'm waiting for someone clever enough to integrate it into their home decor...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> The fans attach to the inside. Those things hold 24 140mm fans plus a 180mm on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember when Frozen got one of these in stock. The finish is so wonderful I'm waiting for someone clever enough to integrate it into their home decor...


With the size of it, yeah, you'd pretty much have to turn it into furniture, lol


----------



## kcuestag

What's the price of that beauty here in Europe?


----------



## wermad

building a small wc city. One sky-rad at a time


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> building a small wc city. One sky-rad at a time


This would be awesome! cool a whole server cluster, lol


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This would be awesome! cool a whole server cluster, lol


id hang it in a corner with a lightbulb on the middle as a Rad-Lamp coolest ambient lighting ever


----------



## Thrasher1016

Yeah, they're $870USD from FCPU here, so you wanna do the math?









Thanks - T


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Yeah, they're $870USD from FCPU here, so you wanna do the math?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T












Pretty expensive but I'm sure e-peen status goes up dramatically.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> There is always a guy with a bigger.......................................radiator than yours !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


we need another word to define this. overkill is not enough anymore.


----------



## 4WDBenio

It works fine as a coffee table in the TV room.


----------



## kpoeticg

Also if you own a Tank and one of the wheels ever breaks, you now have a spare


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty expensive but I'm sure e-peen status goes up dramatically.


It definitely raised my _epeen_.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> we need another word to define this. overkill is not enough anymore.


hmmmm....from the Unreal fame....

Double Kill, Multi kill, Ultra Kill, MONSTER KILL, LUDICROUS KILL, and HOLY ****!

I'm goin with the last one


----------



## kpoeticg

If you're gonna go with external cooling, that's definitely the best looking way to go. Only problem is it costs the same as a Chiller.....


----------



## Anoxy

Are cooling kits like the XSPC Raystorm 750 or EK L240 good values? I was considering using one of these as a starter for my CPU, and then adding my two 780s to the loop afterwards.

Not sure if that's a good idea or if I should just pick out all my parts individually.


----------



## Sunreeper

I'd rather go all out especially considering that expensive rig you got


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I'd rather go all out especially considering that expensive rig you got


Yeah, I guess I just need to do more research then. I wish there was a foolproof checklist of everything I need. I feel like there are lots of small parts that I'm overlooking.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I guess I just need to do more research then. I wish there was a foolproof checklist of everything I need. I feel like there are lots of small parts that I'm overlooking.


Here's some places to start out
http://www.overclock.net/t/913181/water-cooling-guide-for-noobs-always-updated
http://www.overclock.net/t/1406363/beginners-guide-for-water-cooling-2013

Pump
Rad/s
Block/s
Tubing
Fittings
Coolant/DI
Res
Maybe Fillport and DrainPlug
Fans
Fan Controller like the Aquaero helps
TIM
Shrouds/Grills
Velcro
Screws


----------



## Killa Cam

what's up with xspc and their support for their rx series of rads. im noticing that their ax and ex rads are being featured more. still can't believe they haven't made rx 140mm rads too


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm pretty sure EX and AX are meant to replace RS and RX


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure EX and AX are meant to replace RS and RX


r u serious? i can understand the rs, but the rx is one of the best rads ever produced. stupid move


----------



## fa5terba11

I'm thinking about building a rig that is a desk. I've seen a swedish (I think) company do something like this. My plan is to get the metal - cut and weld it myself into a full standing desk with plexi for viewing components, mounts for radiators, reservoris, and pumps. I want to build it so that it has clean wire management and a way to clean the dust out of it without having to utterly dismantle it, along with practical power connections. If I pulled something like this off would it be considered for mod of the month? What do y'all think? I realize I'm not modding anything, but am building it from scratch - would that keep me from being considered?


----------



## kpoeticg

I think UT60 kinda replaced RX's spot. So they made the AX which is thinner and has nice reviews so far. I've only seen a little about it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> I'm thinking about building a rig that is a desk. I've seen a swedish (I think) company do something like this. My plan is to get the metal - cut and weld it myself into a full standing desk with plexi for viewing components, mounts for radiators, reservoris, and pumps. I want to build it so that it has clean wire management and a way to clean the dust out of it without having to utterly dismantle it, along with practical power connections. If I pulled something like this off would it be considered for mod of the month? What do y'all think? I realize I'm not modding anything, but am building it from scratch - would that keep me from being considered?


Redharbinger Crossdesk is the Desk you're thinking of. It goes on sale in a few weeks. Desk mod's usually come out tight IMO. I'm sure if it comes out good enough you could be nominated.

Scratch build's are definitely considered mods. Because they are =P


----------



## fa5terba11

I'm kind of excited to give it a try. I'm super handy with a welder and I have a place in my house that is kind of goofy and I haven't been able to find a desk to fit that area, but it would be perfect for a desk. Building the desk from scratch and implementing all of the watercooling in it will allow me to create a desk that fits that space, isn't encumbered by a chassis set on top or off to the side and it should look freakin' sweet!


----------



## kpoeticg

Don't just do it to win MOTM. Do it for yourself and it'll come out better =)
Build logs are great way to share stuff you do and learn and help others learn too. But you need more motivation than that =P


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Here's some places to start out
> http://www.overclock.net/t/913181/water-cooling-guide-for-noobs-always-updated
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1406363/beginners-guide-for-water-cooling-2013
> 
> Pump
> Rad/s
> Block/s
> Tubing
> Fittings
> Coolant/DI
> Res
> Maybe Fillport and DrainPlug
> Fans
> Fan Controller like the Aquaero helps
> TIM
> Shrouds/Grills
> Screws


Awesome, thanks so much. I will take my novice questions over there then








Hopefully, I will be back here soon to share my first water cooling creation.


----------



## kpoeticg

OOOH, Almost forgot Velcro on that list. Definitely belongs on the Necessities List

Glad to help. I wasn't telling you not to ask questions in here BTW. Just pointing you towards some info to read through. Then did my best to give you a checklist myself =P


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I guess I just need to do more research then. I wish there was a foolproof checklist of everything I need. I feel like there are lots of small parts that I'm overlooking.


Start a thread in 'Water Cooling' with what you want to do and what you are thinking about running...this way it is more consolidated and easier to review information


----------



## SeeThruHead

anyone know what the best low restriction *3-Way* g1/4 ball valves are to use with normal watercooling fittings?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So I wanted to run my pump for 24 hours to make sure it works

This is the result



Im not sure if its a science experiment, just cool or modern art


----------



## chase11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So I wanted to run my pump for 24 hours to make sure it works
> 
> This is the result
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure if its a science experiment, just cool or modern art


Both.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So I wanted to run my pump for 24 hours to make sure it works
> 
> This is the result
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure if its a science experiment, just cool or modern art


Ooooh, I wouldn't do that unless the pump is set very low. The flow rate with no restriction will be very high and will gradually heat a small volume of water like that.
There was a guy that did something similar on an AU forum with a different pump, and even though it was running through a radiator it got very hot (the rad had no fans running but still passive cooling).


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> anyone know what the best low restriction *3-Way* g1/4 ball valves are to use with normal watercooling fittings?


If it helps at all, I know Koolance makes G1/4 to 1/4 NPT adaptors.

EDIT: The only place I've ever really seen small 3-way ball valves used is for high-pressure hydraulic lines. I know companies like Swagelok make 1/4 NPT ones but at what cost I do not know.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chase11*
> 
> Both.










I really wanna just keep it like this it looks awesome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Ooooh, I wouldn't do that unless the pump is set very low. The flow rate with no restriction will be very high and will gradually heat a small volume of water like that.
> There was a guy that did something similar on an AU forum with a different pump, and even though it was running through a radiator it got very hot (the rad had no fans running but still passive cooling).


Didnt think about that







, I'll keep an eye on it and turn if off if I need to, I just wanted to make sure it works and doesnt crash out after a few hours non stop

Im thankful I went with 1/2" barbs and 7/16" tube







only leak I had when I was flushing the rads was coz I didnt screw the barbs in tight enough


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> If it helps at all, I know Koolance makes G1/4 to 1/4 NPT adaptors.


Ohh that helps. I don't want to use NPT but they also have g3/4 to g1/4 adapters. So I can buy a non restrictive g3/4 valve and connect up comression fittings to it. Thanks.

Edit they are G3/8 actually, that's probably not going to get me much less restriction on my valve.


----------



## Plutonium10

Yeah, if you could find a G3/4 3-way valve that would work but that could be a bit tricky here in Canada. I wonder if Aquatuning would have that kind of thing...


----------



## SeeThruHead

Ideally I'd just like a 3 way valve threaded for g1/4 that isn't crazy restrictive. I'm going to look on aquatuning and maybe send them an email.


----------



## PC Upgrade

New post with better quality photos !!

Priject Blue Lagoon

Parts

Case: Thermaltake Chaser A31
PSU: Thermaltake Smart 630
Mobo: Asus Maximus V formula
CPU: Intel i7 3770k
VGA: Asus GTX 660ti
Ram: 8gb kit Corsair Dominator @ 2000Mhz
SSD: Intel 320 80gb
HDD: Seagte 1tb

Watercooling parts:
EK - ALPHACOOL - CORSAIR - Primochill


----------



## PC Upgrade

New post with better quality photos

Project snowwhite

Parts

Case: NZXT Phantom 410
PSU: Xilense XP750.CS.R3
Mobo: Asus Sabertooth z77
CPU: Intel i7 3770k
VGA: Asus GTX 770
Ram: 16gb kit Kingston Hyper X Beast @ 2400Mhz
SSD: OCZ 120gb vertex 3 + Intel 320 60gb
HDD: Seagte 1tb

Watercooling parts:
EK - ALPHACOOL - CORSAIR - MAYHEMS


----------



## jokrik

^ lose all the filters and I reckon it would be better
since its a great setup already


----------



## TheMuffinMan616

Just finished my first foray into watercooling. What do you think?


----------



## Cr4zy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMuffinMan616*
> 
> Just finished my first foray into watercooling. What do you think?


Your first? Well looks like I shouldn't try anymore!

Looks awesome.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMuffinMan616*
> 
> Just finished my first foray into watercooling. What do you think?


what coolant do u use to make it ocean blue color?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMuffinMan616*
> 
> Just finished my first foray into watercooling. What do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Ha, I saw this on reddit. Your first foray? What, are you trying to make me look stupid?







Looks great, getting me excited to order my parts and get started!


----------



## Trolle BE

When replacing my bitfenix recon with a aquaero 6 will i be able to controll the speed of my pump?i got a EK dcp 2.2 pump with the bay reservoir.because that pump aint the most quiet thing in my pc.


----------



## gdubc

Yes. That thing will probably make you breakfast if you ask it to.

Seriously though, it will control devices by voltage or pwm signals.


----------



## TheMuffinMan616

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what coolant do u use to make it ocean blue color?


Mayhems X1 UV Blue


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Yes. That thing will probably make you breakfast if you ask it to.
> 
> Seriously though, it will control devices by voltage or pwm signals.


ok thanks
my recon doesnt work more then it does

speedcontrolling my pump would be awsome tho


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMuffinMan616*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what coolant do u use to make it ocean blue color?
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems X1 UV Blue
Click to expand...

There is also an ocean blue dye you can use to make it a little deeper blue if you want a deeper blue


----------



## kpoeticg

Hey guys, hope it's ok that i'm quoting this from my build log. I'm trying to get more input before i go forward and order my rads (again). I've already ordered rads that i'm not gonna use
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My front mounted 360 will have the Phobya E-Loops in Push and GT AP-15's in Pull
> My bottom 360 will have GT AP-00's in Push
> My Side mounted 240 will have GT AP-00's in either Push or Pull
> My UT60 120 right now is gonna have GT AP-00's Push/Pull. Might put an LED fan on the rear for Pull, haven't decided yet.
> 
> The reason I'm putting all that out there right now is because the main thing's i need to order right now and am having trouble deciding on are my 2 x 360's and 240.
> 
> Obviously I have space restrictions because i wanted a portable rig. Pretty much every rad I'm gonna have in there except the 120 will be the result of my trusty Dremel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My front mounted rad needs to be 398mm long or less if I wanna be able to clip in the front panel. That pretty much limits me to either BI GT Stealth, EK Coolstream XT, Feser Admiral, Magicool Extreme 360, or XSPC EX360. If I went with something like the Admiral I'd have to make some major mods. Right now 35-40mm seems to be the sweet spot if i wanna go easy on myself, so I'm thinking of going with the EX360
> 
> My bottom 360 has enough room for a 45-50mm rad and has enough room length wise. I'm thinking of using an XT45 just because it's gonna be pushing against the back of my chassis so I'm planning on having a Drain Plug and maybe QDC coming out of the front or bottom ports with the loop running through the top ports
> 
> My 240 needs to be around 37mm or less and the shorter the better on the 120mm axis. I'm leaning towards the EX240 Multiport because that area will be a little cluttered and the extra ports might be useful.
> 
> Any input on anything I just said will be more than welcome. Choosing and ordering my rads has been holding me up from completing alot of the mods I've already started.


I'm pretty much going for as quiet of a build as i can with the space restrictions i have.
My build started with a UT60 280, XT45 240, and UT60 120. The more i cut into my case to make those fit, the more rad space i've noticed i could carve out.
I'll be cooling a 4930k, RIVE BE, 2 x 290x's, and maybe RAM....


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> anyone know what the best low restriction *3-Way* g1/4 ball valves are to use with normal watercooling fittings?


There are some brass and SS ones on thebay - pretty pricey - especially the swagelocks - none are very aesthetically pleasing though. Of course everything was 1/4" NPT, so you would have to buy some Koolance adapters








The cheapest thing I found was this:


http://www.jpwmarine.com.au/products/plumbing-toilets/ball-valves-y-valves/two-way-valves.aspx

I know - hard to imagine making that pretty enough for your rig......maybe you could nickel plate it! LOL


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> There is also an ocean blue dye you can use to make it a little deeper blue if you want a deeper blue


does it stain ur wb or not?


----------



## kpoeticg

Apparently any of the Mayhem's dye, other than Red UV/Pink UV, can be cleaned off fairly easy in the event that it does stain. There's a bunch of ways to clean it, but as long as you choose good Plasticizer free tubing you should be alright with the Blue

Is there anybody here that can recommend or NOT recommend...
An XSPC EX360 with 1600RPM Phobya E-Loops in push and GT AP-15's in Pull
&
An XSPC EX240 Multiport with one set of 2150RPM GT's on it

Thanx in advance for any assistance you can give me with making my mind up =)


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> There are some brass and SS ones on thebay - pretty pricey - especially the swagelocks - none are very aesthetically pleasing though. Of course everything was 1/4" NPT, so you would have to buy some Koolance adapters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cheapest thing I found was this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.jpwmarine.com.au/products/plumbing-toilets/ball-valves-y-valves/two-way-valves.aspx
> 
> I know - hard to imagine making that pretty enough for your rig......maybe you could nickel plate it! LOL


I order some of these:



They are 1/4 BSPP threaded. I'm going to test their restrictiveness when they arrive and then decide whether to go with a larger vavle with adapters or more pumping power if they are.


----------



## 12Cores

Looks like the R9 290X will have blocks ready on day one, good news for OCNers.

http://www.techpowerup.com/192982/ek-debuts-water-block-for-amd-radeon-r9-290x.html


----------



## kkorky

Not that Koolance radiators are any good per say, but anyway have a look at the vid-it speaks for itself









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81ABeROi4OY&feature=em-uploademail


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for that vid =P

OK I'm almost decided on an XT45 360 for my bottom 360 with GT AP-00's in Push. Either ST30 240 or EX240 Multiport for my side 240 with GT AP-00's in Push. And EX360, GT Stealth 360, or Magicool Extreme 360 with 1600RPM E-Loops in Push and GT AP-15's in Pull. I also have my UT60 120 in Push/Pull

If i choose the GT Stealth 360 in the front, it'll be for a little extra cooling surface with all my Low Profile rads. I'm really trying to get as much cooling as silent as possible and could really use some help from people with experience with these particular rads.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Apparently any of the Mayhem's dye, other than Red UV/Pink UV, can be cleaned off fairly easy in the event that it does stain. There's a bunch of ways to clean it, but as long as you choose good Plasticizer free tubing you should be alright with the Blue
> 
> Is there anybody here that can recommend or NOT recommend...
> An XSPC EX360 with 1600RPM Phobya E-Loops in push and GT AP-15's in Pull
> &
> An XSPC EX240 Multiport with one set of 2150RPM GT's on it
> 
> Thanx in advance for any assistance you can give me with making my mind up =)


Dude, that's exactly what I did, eloops I'll push and AP-15's in pull. Temps are superb, Amb 30c load 65c on Prime95 Blended. But my eloops were B12-3 so it was literally identical to the AP-15 spec wise for static pressure and rpm. Hope that helps!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> does it stain ur wb or not?


All dye can stain but the non uv isn't as bad as the uv and blue isn't as bad as the red


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Dude, that's exactly what I did, eloops I'll push and AP-15's in pull. Temps are superb, Amb 30c load 65c on Prime95 Blended. But my eloops were B12-3 so it was literally identical to the AP-15 spec wise for static pressure and rpm. Hope that helps!


Thank you!!!! That helps alot. The reason i need the Phobya E-Loops is for the Red Transparent blades for the build I'm doing. What kind of RPM's do you need to run them at for Idle/Browsing type cooling?

And sorry everybody for semi-spamming this thread with this issue today. I just have alot of stuff for my build that's being held up with deciding on these rads =\

Ok, I'm gonna go to sleep, I've been stressing myself crazy today over this decision. If anybody else has any helpful input on my last few posts while I'm gone, I'll be checking back when i wake up

Thanx in advance


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMuffinMan616*
> 
> Just finished my first foray into watercooling. What do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really solid looking. I absolutely love that shade of blue coolant - perfect!


----------



## rickyman0319

i am thinking about buying this: XSPC High Flex Hose 1/2″ ID, 3/4″ OD (19/12.7mm) - Blue / UV Blue

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1074&products_id=34223

I am thinking using this tubing and uv dye or coolant for watercooling system. will it work or not?

is XSPC High Flex Hose 1/2″ ID, 3/4″ OD (19/12.7mm) - Blue / UV Blue a good Plasticizer free tubing or not?

or I can buy this also:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292_1154&products_id=36350

which one is better for me?


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Looks like the R9 290X will have blocks ready on day one, good news for OCNers.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/192982/ek-debuts-water-block-for-amd-radeon-r9-290x.html


Those look pretty nice! I'm digging EK's switch to simple, clean aesthetics.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thank you!!!! That helps alot. The reason i need the Phobya E-Loops is for the Red Transparent blades for the build I'm doing. What kind of RPM's do you need to run them at for Idle/Browsing type cooling?
> 
> And sorry everybody for semi-spamming this thread with this issue today. I just have alot of stuff for my build that's being held up with deciding on these rads =\
> 
> Ok, I'm gonna go to sleep, I've been stressing myself crazy today over this decision. If anybody else has any helpful input on my last few posts while I'm gone, I'll be checking back when i wake up
> 
> Thanx in advance


My B12-3's are 1900rpm, same SP as AP-15(1.99 or 2.1 I forgot). But AP-15 is at 1850rpm. I always had them(loops and AP-15)maxed out even while surfing the net/idle. So my temps were really good(to me). Now I use an EK XT240 rad with the same fan config but I lost abt 10c worth of cooling(either the same temps or I have mistaken lol). All results I gathered was with my 3770K @ 4.5Ghz, 1.19v.


----------



## Destrto

Is there a site or a list somewhere for tubing that is known to not have plasticizer?


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Is there a site or a list somewhere for tubing that is known to not have plasticizer?


I also would be interested in this!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Is there a site or a list somewhere for tubing that is known to not have plasticizer?


Me two


----------



## friskiest

Perhaps have a look here
Plasticizer Problems / Discussion / Gallery

Primochill Advanced LRT has so far proven to be pretty spot on.
I believe the black Norprene tubing has also had positive feedback so far.

Other than that, you could go hard acrylic.

As far as a list or site, I think this forum is your best bet


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Perhaps have a look here
> Plasticizer Problems / Discussion / Gallery
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT has so far proven to be pretty spot on.
> I believe the black Norprene tubing has also had positive feedback so far.
> 
> Other than that, you could go hard acrylic.
> 
> As far as a list or site, I think this forum is your best bet


Thanks for the link to the thread. Ill have a look through there and see what I come up with.

I'm not big on acrylic as, I dont have the tools necessary. Nor do i have the extra money to purchase them. Otherwise, yes, I would definitely like to try it.

I was curious about a list of sorts as I have a few places locally that sell clear and black tubing. (in the diameter I'm looking for even!)

I was also wondering if there was any way to determine if certain tubing has plasticizer in it? Or is it just kindof "trial and error"


----------



## friskiest

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks for the link to the thread. Ill have a look through there and see what I come up with.
> 
> I'm not big on acrylic as, I dont have the tools necessary. Nor do i have the extra money to purchase them. Otherwise, yes, I would definitely like to try it.
> 
> I was curious about a list of sorts as I have a few places locally that sell clear and black tubing. (in the diameter I'm looking for even!)
> 
> I was also wondering if there was any way to determine if certain tubing has plasticizer in it? Or is it just kindof "trial and error"






I'd also be curios to know what exactly it is that creates or prevents plasticizer issues - I would assume it has something to do with the manufacturing process and they way the walls/tube reacts with different fluids that are contained in the tubes.

From another forum after a quick google search, this is was Primochill said about their Advanced LRT (in comparison to their flawed PRO LRT)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> PrimoFlex™ ADVANCED LRT™ Tubing has been designed, formulated and manufactured for today's evolving standards in the PC water cooling industry. Advanced LRT™ has been carefully formulated to enable it to perform in a wider range of closed loop cooling system, making it the most compatible water cooling tubing ever created. Low Radius Technology
> 
> PrimoChill's proprietary blend of extremely low durometer PVC and a more rigid polymer resin gives PrimoFlex™ ADVANCED LRT™ its unbeatable bend ratio and durability. Even under exacting laboratory set-ups with abrupt small radius bends and multiple direction changes, ADVANCED LRT™ tubing resists twisting and collapse allowing for tighter bends without the kinking that can cause cooling failures or a reduction in system performance (A common problem when using other lesser brands).
> Clarity in Sight and Mind
> 
> *Smooth inner walls improve closed loop sanitation. Advanced LRT™ smooth surface inhibits particulate gathering or entrapment onto the tubing wall, thus reducing the potential of bacterial growth and contamination. With it new "resistant" inner walls, Advanced LRT™ will keep your system looking and feeling as clean as the day it was installed. The new technology used in PrimoFlex™ ADVANCED LRT™ has removed the need for the antimicrobial formerly impregnated in the Pro LRT tubing. The results are a noticeable improvement of clarity over PRO LRT™*.






On a side note, save up for acrylic! It's amazing looking and requires little maintenance


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

That PrimoChill Rigid Acrylic looks pretty awesome seeing you can bend and shape it how ever you want, could make for some sick builds


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Is there a site or a list somewhere for tubing that is known to not have plasticizer?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I also would be interested in this!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Me two


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> That PrimoChill Rigid Acrylic looks pretty awesome seeing you can bend and shape it how ever you want, could make for some sick builds


Just found this








Please Contribute! - OCN WC Tubing Database


----------



## Destrto

I mean, to be honest, if I can get tubing for 30cents a foot at a local store, compared to $2.00 a foot from an online retailer, I feel like I'm paying more for the name than the tubing. That's just me. I know I'm not experienced in watercooling (hence why I'm asking so many questions) but that's how I feel.

EDIT: Just saw your post linking that thread. thanks for that. Ill check it out.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So thinking of sleeving my XSPC D5 Vario ... would you guys do it from the PCB, popping the back off and doing it internally or just what cables are hanging out?

Going shrinkless black paracord


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So thinking of sleeving my XSPC D5 Vario ... would you guys do it from the PCB, popping the back off and doing it internally or just what cables are hanging out?
> 
> Going shrinkless black paracord


Both will look good but of you want to do it the right way do it internally.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I mean, to be honest, if I can get tubing for 30cents a foot at a local store, compared to $2.00 a foot from an online retailer, I feel like I'm paying more for the name than the tubing. That's just me. I know I'm not experienced in watercooling (hence why I'm asking so many questions) but that's how I feel.
> 
> EDIT: Just saw your post linking that thread. thanks for that. Ill check it out.


HomeDepot tubing IS in that database. It generally lasts between 1-3 days before it has Plasticizer issues IIRC

That DB hasn't been updated too much since Advanced LRT came out. Because Advanced LRT, Norprene, and a cpl Tygons are the only ones Plasticizer free. All the others are just slower for it to happen. Home Depot's probly the worst one u can get =P

If you're gonna do Acrylic Tubing, I've never really heard much benefit to one brand over another except for their size.


----------



## ginger_nuts

If not mistaken plasticizer is something in the tubing, a chemical. I believe it is heat and UV light that helps it to be released.

IMO if you buy the tubing expecting it not to leach and it does you will more p'd off then if you buy the tubing expecting it to leach in the first place.

Besides plasticizer can be cleaned. Yes a hassle, but can be.

If you are worried about it, go copper, acrylic tubing or rubber.

Like I say this is just my


----------



## ridgey1112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMuffinMan616*
> 
> Just finished my first foray into watercooling. What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















thats amazing. Great job!!!


----------



## DevilGear44

Wish I had a better camera as always, but here's my copy pasta from the SFF forum.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Update on my build! switched to a DDC and a 40mm res to make the loop completely internal. Now with 100% more UV LEDs! And a fill-port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will try to take better pics once I'm done leak testing and set it back up.


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Wish I had a better camera as always, but here's my copy pasta from the SFF forum.


Aaaaw, now you gone and made me hungry for pasta









(Cool build though!







)


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Seems the aqua pipe in my res has started to flake, I can see brass colored pits and cracks beginning to form in the plating. Not sure what I can do about this besides dump in something like Feser Base or just switch over to Mayhems Pastel.


----------



## kpoeticg

U should check the PH Levels. Some1 else can help u more with that.
Def sounds like it might be time to drain and re-analyze.


----------



## Simplynicko

you can find pH testers and then get an acid neutralizer from your local pool accessory shop.


----------



## Destrto

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll look more into Acrylic tubing and the thread associated with it. But like I said this will be my first attempt with any kind of full loop. And it's also going to be a pretty big build. So I don't want to dump a bunch of money on mistakes, if you know what I mean.

I've looked at norprene tubing, as that is what many of you are saying has worked well, without plasticizer build up. And through some other sites, I've heard people say that the medical grade tubing is supposed to be a good alternative, but I would rather hear your guys' opinion on that stuff, if any of you have used it, or tried it. Stuff like Excelon SL PVC Tubing, Tygon ND 100-65, and Norprene A-60-G (Which I've seen on performance-pcs).


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Not that Koolance radiators are any good per say, but anyway have a look at the vid-it speaks for itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81ABeROi4OY&feature=em-uploademail


also, their stuff seems to be rather pricey compared with other brands...
Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If not mistaken plasticizer is something in the tubing, a chemical. I believe it is heat and UV light that helps it to be released.
> 
> IMO if you buy the tubing expecting it not to leach and it does you will more p'd off then if you buy the tubing expecting it to leach in the first place.
> 
> Besides plasticizer can be cleaned. Yes a hassle, but can be.
> 
> If you are worried about it, go copper, acrylic tubing or rubber.
> 
> Like I say this is just my


Yes. Plasticizer is in the wall of the tube that helps make it softer and more playable. When you have fluid flowing through it the walls eventually start to break down a bit which leaks the plasticizer into the fluid. This is when you start seeing the buildup/clouding. Of course, if you let it stay in the loop too long, it can start gunking up your blocks. Heat as you say can help the tube break down


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll look more into Acrylic tubing and the thread associated with it. But like I said this will be my first attempt with any kind of full loop. And it's also going to be a pretty big build. So I don't want to dump a bunch of money on mistakes, if you know what I mean.
> 
> I've looked at norprene tubing, as that is what many of you are saying has worked well, without plasticizer build up. And through some other sites, I've heard people say that the medical grade tubing is supposed to be a good alternative, but I would rather hear your guys' opinion on that stuff, if any of you have used it, or tried it. Stuff like Excelon SL PVC Tubing, Tygon ND 100-65, and Norprene A-60-G (Which I've seen on performance-pcs).


My mistake was doing tubing for my first build then a month later deciding to go with acrylic. That ended up being more expensive.

If you want to do acrylic you should do acrylic.


----------



## Unhooked

Since Acrylic is rigid, is it prone to breakage?


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll look more into Acrylic tubing and the thread associated with it. But like I said this will be my first attempt with any kind of full loop. And it's also going to be a pretty big build. So I don't want to dump a bunch of money on mistakes, if you know what I mean.
> 
> I've looked at norprene tubing, as that is what many of you are saying has worked well, without plasticizer build up. And through some other sites, I've heard people say that the medical grade tubing is supposed to be a good alternative, but I would rather hear your guys' opinion on that stuff, if any of you have used it, or tried it. Stuff like Excelon SL PVC Tubing, Tygon ND 100-65, and Norprene A-60-G (Which I've seen on performance-pcs).


I could not agree more. I would love to use acrylic tube but the cost of all those fittings is insane. I have been working on the same build forever and have gone from aftermarket air coolers to the red mod with corsair pumps to fullcover blocks. I can tell you for sure not to use homedepot tube unless you want to re-tube every month. plasticizer is one issue but for me the tubing got cloudy so fast i had to change it long before i had build up issues. I also had staining and cloudy tubeing issues with tygon tubing after a couple of months. At this point im going with colored tubing and no dyes. After a youtube video I decided to go with primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT. Linus from Linus tech tips said he used it and it stayed crystal clear for 2 years and running. I have this and some fittings coming from performance-pcs today.
and this is the video i referred to.


----------



## lowfat

Fittings for acrylic tubing aren't any more expensive than compressions for regular tubing. Actually the Bitspower C47 fittings are cheaper than pretty much every normal compression fitting.


----------



## Solonowarion

My phobya push fittings which personally I like very much are like 2 bucks each on ppcs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unhooked*
> 
> Since Acrylic is rigid, is it prone to breakage?


My e22 tubing has a lot of give. Not probe to breakage unless you go at it with a hammer. I can grab a run in my case and if I give it a tug the case will move.


----------



## macandy13

Hey all, it's been awhile since I've been on and I'm looking for a little help. I can't seem to find any of these blocks in the UK.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc-titan-se-original-csq-nickel.html

Anyone know anywhere that stocks them or am I just gonna have to get them straight from EK?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll look more into Acrylic tubing and the thread associated with it. But like I said this will be my first attempt with any kind of full loop. And it's also going to be a pretty big build. So I don't want to dump a bunch of money on mistakes, if you know what I mean.
> 
> I've looked at norprene tubing, as that is what many of you are saying has worked well, without plasticizer build up. And through some other sites, I've heard people say that the medical grade tubing is supposed to be a good alternative, but I would rather hear your guys' opinion on that stuff, if any of you have used it, or tried it. Stuff like Excelon SL PVC Tubing, Tygon ND 100-65, and Norprene A-60-G (Which I've seen on performance-pcs).
> 
> 
> 
> I could not agree more. I would love to use acrylic tube but the cost of all those fittings is insane. I have been working on the same build forever and have gone from aftermarket air coolers to the red mod with corsair pumps to fullcover blocks. I can tell you for sure not to use homedepot tube unless you want to re-tube every month. plasticizer is one issue but for me the tubing got cloudy so fast i had to change it long before i had build up issues. I also had staining and cloudy tubeing issues with tygon tubing after a couple of months. At this point im going with colored tubing and no dyes. After a youtube video I decided to go with primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT. *Linus from Linus tech tips said he used it and it stayed crystal clear for 2 years and running.* I have this and some fittings coming from performance-pcs today.
> and this is the video i referred to.
Click to expand...

Cant see that as Advanced has only been around for a few months.....


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cant see that as Advanced has only been around for a few months.....











Sneaky Linus


----------



## Destrto

Hey B-NEG, have you had any experience with these other tubings I mentioned? I found them on USPlastics. Do you happen to know anything they would be comparable to?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMuffinMan616*
> 
> Just finished my first foray into watercooling. What do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


For your first time, you did a wicked job. Well done!


----------



## kpoeticg

Norprene has no Plasticizer cuz it's rubber (at least i think that's why). EK makes a similar black tubing. Advanced LRT is def supposed to be Plasticizer free. Dunno how Linus has been using it for 2 years tho








Acrylic's Plasticizer Free too


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey B-NEG, have you had any experience with these other tubings I mentioned? I found them on USPlastics. Do you happen to know anything they would be comparable to?


If i was going to do anything other than copper or acrylic then i would go for Norprene.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If i was going to do anything other than copper or acrylic then i would go for Norprene.


Quick and easy. I like the way you do business. Haha. Thanks B-NEG.


----------



## Unhooked

K dumb question. How would you go about topping up that reservoir?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMuffinMan616*
> 
> Just finished my first foray into watercooling. What do you think?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unhooked*
> 
> Since Acrylic is rigid, is it prone to breakage?


It's more sturdy than you might think. If you throw your case around then yeah you may have some trouble. But aside from that you can tug.on it with a good bit of force without issues
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Fittings for acrylic tubing aren't any more expensive than compressions for regular tubing. Actually the Bitspower C47 fittings are cheaper than pretty much every normal compression fitting.


This,

the PrimoChill and the c47 are both around $5-6 per fitting which is less than most fittings for regular tubing. If you do the thing where you put 10000000000 adapters in there to avoid bending the acrylic, then yeah that gets expensive. The tube is around $2-3 per foot which is roughly the same price as PrimoChill Advanced. There is a higher probability for mistakes so you will probably need extra.

So really, aside from the adaptor method, then it is probably the same expense. Your regular tube setup probably needs some as well so again unless you go nuts with them the cost is pretty relative.


----------



## Unhooked

Are there any advantages to using Rigid other than goods looks of course


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unhooked*
> 
> Are there any advantages to using Rigid other than goods looks of course


No plasticizer. If you decode to bend it can be cheaper because you dont need to buy x amount of angled adapters.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unhooked*
> 
> Are there any advantages to using Rigid other than goods looks of course


No Plasicisers (as mentioned) Pipe for life (no yellowing) Costs a lot less for fittings and pipe..


----------



## DevilGear44

More potato pictures.







With the loop completely internalized, the build is finally done. Watercooling a mini-itx is probably one of the most frustrating experiences I've had as a builder. The finished product is pretty much what I envisioned when I first saw the Hadron and that's why I wanted one so badly. With the official case released, I hope to start seeing a few more watered Hadrons pop up - I'm interested to see what other hobbyists come up with.

Here's a rough sketch of what I wanted the build to look before I had started...


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Fittings for acrylic tubing aren't any more expensive than compressions for regular tubing. Actually the Bitspower C47 fittings are cheaper than pretty much every normal compression fitting.


I was talking more about the extra fittings you have to get so the acrylic is straight across from one another. I've seen acrylic tubed rigs with enough 45 and 90 fittings to do flexible tube twice over. Its less of a problem being able to bend some of the tubes now but you still end up buying more fittings.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> I was talking more about the extra fittings you have to get so the acrylic is straight across from one another. I've seen acrylic tubed rigs with enough 45 and 90 fittings to do flexible tube twice over. Its less of a problem being able to bend some of the tubes now but you still end up buying more fittings.


People can go just as overboard on fittings w/ regular tubing. If you aren't using a motherboard or ram block then you really don't need many angle rotaries at all. I use 4 in one rig and 3 in the other.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If you do the thing where you put 10000000000 adapters in there to avoid bending the acrylic, then yeah that gets expensive.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If i was going to do anything other than copper or acrylic then i would go for Norprene.


Same.


----------



## Anoxy

Is that because Norprene, copper, and acrylic don't require as much maintenance? Or what's the reasoning? I'm really confused on what tubing to buy.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is that because Norprene, copper, and acrylic don't require as much maintenance? Or what's the reasoning? I'm really confused on what tubing to buy.


No plasticizer issues with those where it can change the color of your coolant and cloud the tubing requiring you to start over.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> No plasticizer issues with those where it can change the color of your coolant and cloud the tubing requiring you to start over.


Is this Tygon 2475 tubing a good choice? It says it's plasticizer free.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is that because Norprene, copper, and acrylic don't require as much maintenance? Or what's the reasoning? I'm really confused on what tubing to buy.


I'm not an expert, so if this needs to be corrected, be nice about it








But Flexible PVC type tubing has something in it that allows it to bend the way it does. Some type of plastic type material. And the cheaper the quality of the tubing, the faster the coolants eat away at it and cause issue's in your loop. Norprene, Copper, & Acrylic, don't have this in them. That's basically the reasoning.
Plasticizer changes the color of your tubing and coolant. It also builds up and absorbs your coolants dye, clogging your blocks with crap. Norprene, copper, and acrylic have none of those Plasticizer chemicals in them. So no issue's. Supposedly the same goes for Advanced LRT, but only time will truly tell.
Hope this helps









If you're deadset on going with a clear PVC type tubing. And for some reason don't want to buy Advanced LRT, check out The WC Tubing Database and look for the tubing your thinking of buying. It hasn't been updated much since Advanced LRT came out because so far it seems to be Plasticizer free. And pretty much all of the other clear PVC's only have a slower leeching process


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is this Tygon 2475 tubing a good choice? It says it's plasticizer free.


According to Aquatuning website:
The new Tygon tubing has had a small, but appreciable change because they are now made with bio-based plasticizers. This brings a big benefit so it is now softer than before and also environmental friendly.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm not an expert, so if this needs to be corrected, be nice about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But Flexible PVC type tubing has something in it that allows it to bend the way it does. Some type of plastic type material. And the cheaper the quality of the tubing, the faster the coolants eat away at it and cause issue's in your loop. Norprene, Copper, & Acrylic, don't have this in them. That's basically the reasoning.
> Plasticizer changes the color of your tubing and coolant. It also builds up and absorbs your coolants dye, clogging your blocks with crap. Norprene, copper, and acrylic have none of those Plasticizer chemicals in them. So no issue's. Supposedly the same goes for Advanced LRT, but only time will truly tell.
> Hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're deadset on going with a clear PVC type tubing. And for some reason don't want to buy Advanced LRT, check out The WC Tubing Database and look for the tubing your thinking of buying. It hasn't been updated much since Advanced LRT came out because so far it seems to be Plasticizer free. And pretty much all of the other clear PVC's only have a slower leeching process


Thank you, I was originally going to go with Advanced LRT, so if that's a safe choice I'll just stick with it.


----------



## kpoeticg

In WC'ing, Everything's Safe....... And then you spend money, and it soon becomes common knowledge that half your loop is a catastrophe waiting to happen LOLLLLLLLLL

So no matter what, you're always gonna need to do some maintenance from time to time. Even with a perfect loop, it's good to drain and flush from time to time. But if you're gonna go Clear Flexible PVC type tubing. I'd go with Advanced LRT. If some1 with more experience says different, than you should listen to them. But Advanced LRT seems to be the safe choice right now


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> In WC'ing, Everything's Safe....... And then you spend money, and it soon becomes common knowledge that half your loop is a catastrophe waiting to happen LOLLLLLLLLL


Once you have that satisfying click of copper pipe into a push fitting, it's seriously hard to consider using anything else. There is no fitting that is as secure in PC watercooling.

I don't think i'll be using anything other than copper in the future, but the EK neoprene tubing did get my Jimmies seriously rustled on some ideas.


----------



## nitroxyl

What do you guys think about this? http://www.versarien.com/technology/

They claim to be 10x more efficient in cooling with their porous surface... Gimmick or the real deal? You think we'll see more of these types of coolers in the future?


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> What do you guys think about this? http://www.versarien.com/technology/
> 
> They claim to be 10x more efficient in cooling with their porous surface... Gimmick or the real deal? You think we'll see more of these types of coolers in the future?


Seems pretty legit (and awesome), however if you want to use it in a water loop (say, for a
CPU block), two things which would need to be solved come to mind (I'm sure there are other
things to consider):

You would somehow still need to get the heat efficiently from the CPU into that copper
foam, I can't at the moment think of how this foam might improve on previous w/c designs
when it comes to that.
Possible flow resistance issues? Although they say porosity up to 85% with pores up to
1 mm in size is possible, so this might not be a real issue.
If you could have a combined block of metal with an integrated solid cold plate on the CPU
side and that foam on the water side, all made from one continuous piece, then there might
be some pretty awesome potential there IMO. Or maybe it might be possible to use this for
a radiator?

In the end you would most likely butt up against thermal limitations in other places in your
loop, be that the CPU->block interface or other elements, but I think there is some pretty
awesome potential in this, if you use it for the right sort of things.


----------



## Willi

there is a possibility for blocks made like Alpenwasser described, but I can imagine it wouldn't be cheap (considering the production methods) and there is the VERY important issue of flow restriction. Even with large pores, there is a serious issue when the path the water flows is a very complicated maze composed of lots of small pores. One block would never have the same flow restriction as another, so quality of the final product probably couldn't be ensured.
Applying it in rads would impose the issue, and probably increase the costs even more. There is also the possibility of it clogging up more easily than a normal block, which could potentially kill your system.
I think we hit a bit of an engineering wall regarding performance of the applied material on computer watercooling. Innovation must come from inventive, groundbreaking designs instead of new, miraculous materials. I could use all-gold in a loop and achieve the best-possible performance in heat transference, but I really doubt that would be cost effective.

The challenge isn't improving the material, but improving the design so it can perform better than before or even perform the same but costing less.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is this Tygon 2475 tubing a good choice? It says it's plasticizer free.


I used 2475 for my first build. It did not hold up to its promises of being plasticizer free. Tubes went cloudy after a month or two with pastel white.

Stick with Advanced LRT, so far its been proven to work


----------



## kpoeticg

Hey guys can anybody tell me if it's ok to have my fillport coming out of my res and my drainport coming out of one of the unused ports in my Alphacool XT45? Is it better to have them both coming off a Tee Fitting straight out of the res or will it work out the same?


----------



## rickyman0319

i have a green line on the resevior and green spot on pump of x2 750 pump and resevor. I am wondering how do I clean it?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Once you have that satisfying click of copper pipe into a push fitting, it's seriously hard to consider using anything else. There is no fitting that is as secure in PC watercooling.
> 
> I don't think i'll be using anything other than copper in the future, but the EK neoprene tubing did get my Jimmies seriously rustled on some ideas.


So I'm assuming copper is much more expensive? Or it's just not used as much because it's difficult to cut and configure?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hey guys can anybody tell me if it's ok to have my fillport coming out of my res and my drainport coming out of one of the unused ports in my Alphacool XT45? Is it better to have them both coming off a Tee Fitting straight out of the res or will it work out the same?


It's fine for the fill to go straight to res. I normally just attach a tube to the res to fill and remove after done

Drain you just want off the low point in the loop. Pulling off a spare inlet/outlet is the same as a tee schematically. So that is fine


----------



## rickyman0319

i am curous if I can buy this :

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20860/ex-blc-1493/EK_Supremacy_Replacement_Acrylic_Top_Clean_-_Blue_EK-TOP_BLUE_-_Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1907

to place the top of the wb or not?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> i am curous if I can buy this :
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20860/ex-blc-1493/EK_Supremacy_Replacement_Acrylic_Top_Clean_-_Blue_EK-TOP_BLUE_-_Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1907
> 
> to place the top of the wb or not?


Of course you can, it's a replacement top


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx cyphon. Yeah, i'm gonna have a horizontal res with the fillport from the res going to a fillport i'll install on the side of my chassis. Then my XT45 will be in the lowest point of my case, so i'll have a Drain Plug coming out of that through my chassis. Thanx again, i figured it would work but wanted to dbl check before i cut the ports outta my case =P


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanx cyphon. Yeah, i'm gonna have a horizontal res with the fillport from the res going to a fillport i'll install on the side of my chassis. Then my XT45 will be in the lowest point of my case, so i'll have a Drain Plug coming out of that through my chassis. Thanx again, i figured it would work but wanted to dbl check before i cut the ports outta my case =P


Np.

Sounds like a good plan


----------



## ShortySmalls

New loop in upgraded system


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I'm assuming copper is much more expensive? Or it's just not used as much because it's difficult to cut and configure?


The actual material is way more expensive. But, you save money on fittings as you don't need angle adapters.

People don't do it because it is difficult, and you can't have see-through copper for colored dye.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> New loop in upgraded system
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think the loop looks nice. But i think it would look better with CPU -> Mosfets -> Back port on Rad, Front port on Rad -> GPU. Just my opinion. Still looks tight tho









Or Rad -> Rad -> Mosfets -> CPU -> GPU


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think the loop looks nice. But i think it would look better with CPU -> Mosfets -> Back port on Rad, Front port on Rad -> GPU. Just my opinion. Still looks tight tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or Rad -> Rad -> Mosfets -> CPU -> GPU


I only ordered 4 of those fittings, $16 each was abit much lol or i would have done it differently.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> I only ordered 4 of those fittings, $16 each was abit much lol or i would have done it differently.


LOL, that makes perfect sense then. The loop still came out real good. I actually like that red tubing alot. I hate how I keep going back and forth between Hard and Soft tubing everytime i see a new build
















Make sure you check your PH Levels from time to time. That MVI Formula has Anodized Aluminum Channels. I haven't heard about any1 having issue's from it yet, but it's definitely a reason to check from time to time and make sure the Asus Waterblock isn't screwing up the rest of your blocks.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So I pulled my pump apart to sleeve it earlier

The finished product didnt turn out to bad, was a little worried getting the para so close to everything inside on the PCB in case it caught on fire











What you guys think?


----------



## kpoeticg

That's what HeatShrink's for =P

Does anybody recall if DerickWM or anybody from EK commented whether or not they're gonna be releasing Clean CSQ blocks for the 290x? So far all I see is the Old School style blocks. And even those are getting sold out already =\


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's what HeatShrink's for =P
> 
> Does anybody recall if DerickWM or anybody from EK commented whether or not they're gonna be releasing Clean CSQ blocks for the 290x? So far all I see is the Old School style blocks. And even those are getting sold out already =\


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series.html

They all appear to be a "clean" variation with the exception of the "original csq".


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So I pulled my pump apart to sleeve it earlier
> 
> The finished product didnt turn out to bad, was a little worried getting the para so close to everything inside on the PCB in case it caught on fire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you guys think?


Looks good! Did you pull the lid off and make the wire hole bigger or just try to squeeze the paracord in the hole?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Looks good! Did you pull the lid off and make the wire hole bigger or just try to squeeze the paracord in the hole?


I pulled the wires out and had to make the hole about 2x wider to get all the wires back out









All the paras heatshrunk in place inside to, just was careful where i placed the cords putting it all back together


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series.html
> 
> They all appear to be a "clean" variation with the exception of the "original csq".


Yeah, I was just hoping for something more along the lines of this


I guess I phrased my question wrong. I was just curious if anybody knew if the blocks released today are what's gonna be available. Or if I should hold out for a version without that metal plate


----------



## Jameswalt1

Yeah the goldfish versions are nice


----------



## kpoeticg

LMAO. Wow, I can't believe I never saw that Goldfish til you just said that. HAHAHAHA

Not that i think this looks bad


I'll just be upset if I grab 2 of em, and the style I like better gets released in a week


----------



## gdubc

Wermad even had yellow pastel mayhems in his.


----------



## Jameswalt1

I think the nickel version is absolute class. In general I like the direction EK is going with their clean blocks.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Wermad even had yellow pastel mayhems in his.


Lol, I just had to go back and check his build log. I can't believe i didn't notice the Fish b4. LOLLLLLLL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I think the nickel version is absolute class. In general I like the direction EK is going with their clean blocks.


Yes, Nickel Blocks always look sexier. Lets stop talking about it now!!!!
I'm too cowardly to give Nickel a shot


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I think the nickel version is absolute class. In general I like the direction EK is going with their clean blocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


EK has really stepped up their game.

I have had their blocks from the 780i chipset days and even then they were pretty good.

But I recently got their "clean" CSQ Supremacy cpu block and their whole presentation, from the packaging, to the detailed instructions, to the actual product itself is top notch. Thoroughly impressed for sure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

EK....meh....

AC?

Ooooh yes.



What im getting for my S3..


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

That blocks makes me want a 7990.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


now that is one sexy waterblock


----------



## Fonne

Any with a Laing DDC pump using a aftermarked top that can measure the height ?

With the standard top it its 38mm - But would a top like DDC X-TOP CSQ be much higher ?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Any with a Laing DDC pump using a aftermarked top that can measure the height ?
> 
> With the standard top it its 38mm - But would a top like DDC X-TOP CSQ be much higher ?


Measured mine (35X body + DDC X-TOP CSQ) and got 40mm sharp.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Measured mine (35X body + DDC X-TOP CSQ) and got 40mm sharp.


Thanks







Just around the size I was hoping on.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK....meh....
> 
> AC?
> 
> Ooooh yes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What im getting for my S3..


now THAT I would agree on.

man I totally forgot about their blocks. I feel stupid now lol.


----------



## nepToon

I'm considering using EK-PSC Black Adapter 90° for my build but I don't find any pictures of them in an actual build:

Has anyone worked with them or has got pictures of them? Preferably on a supremacy, or any clear block?
I wouldnt use them to safe money but the golden yellow marking on the Bitspower fittings dont fit into the build.

Do they match with Bitspower extenders or do they have another knurling pattern/color so you can see the difference?

Fittings will be the new Primochill Rigid Revolver Compression Fitting:

Its going to be a GPU-CPU-RAM-Mosfet loop, so they will be a really visible part of the loop.

I'm very sceptical on using fittings from 3 different manufactures and I fear they won't match.

Another Idea is to use Bitspower Black sparke angle adapters with the Nickel Plated Brass - Black Rigid revolver fittings.
But there against is the same Problem of the matching color of angle adapter and fitting.

Im helpful for any input. Ohh before i forget, this is after all a picture Thread. Here some OC:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I used the EK rotary 90 adapters on my SR2,good fittings and cheap too. A good purchase.


----------



## Jakusonfire

EK rotary 45's ... BP Carbon black extensions and D Plug, EK compressions


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

O.K guys back for some more help,i currently use a bitspower 80mm res officially wanted a 150mm but not available in aus at the moment atleast not that i can find,i was pointed towards this kit and i was wondering if the tube on this http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1285&products_id=22332 would fit this res http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_299&products_id=21948 just need the tube would use the top and bottom covers from my current res....


----------



## kcuestag

Sorry if it's been asked already, but has there been any manufacturers announce waterblocks for the R9 290X yet? I just sold my 7970's and I'm about to buy a 290X, but I don't like the EK waterblocks at all, I want a full clear (plexi) block, not the one currently available with half silver half clear...


----------



## nepToon

Thanks Bneg and jason, looks like they are compatible color and knurling wise.

Time to finish up the order


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Sorry if it's been asked already, but has there been any manufacturers announce waterblocks for the R9 290X yet? I just sold my 7970's and I'm about to buy a 290X, but I don't like the EK waterblocks at all, I want a full clear (plexi) block, not the one currently available with half silver half clear...


That isn't possible unless the VRM is passively cooled. The Stainless is there so the water can cross the row of caps.


----------



## kpoeticg

+1 for explaining that. Now I'm not gonna be wondering if I should wait for a full Plexi top. Thanx


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That isn't possible unless the VRM is passively cooled. The Stainless is there so the water can cross the row of caps.


How come? The GTX780 and Titan have a full plexi version. I don't mean the whole block being plexi, I mean the top part where you can see it, not also the part in contact with the card.









If the answer is the same, then that sucks, I was hoping for a full clear block for this card.


----------



## rickyman0319

i have a green line on the resevior and green spot on pump of x2 750 pump and resevor. I am wondering how do I clean it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> i have a green line on the resevior and green spot on pump of x2 750 pump and resevor. I am wondering how do I clean it?


Pull it out and use a toothbrush.

Also,dont repeat your post because its not been answered,start a thread like everyone else


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How come? The GTX780 and Titan have a full plexi version. I don't mean the whole block being plexi, I mean the top part where you can see it, not also the part in contact with the card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the answer is the same, then that sucks, I was hoping for a full clear block for this card.


The VRMs on the GTX780 aren't as high or as beefy. There won't be any 290x blocks that don't use the stainless steel plate over the VRMs.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The VRMs on the GTX780 aren't as high or as beefy. There won't be any 290x blocks that don't use the stainless steel plate over the VRMs.


That sucks! I guess I'll wait for Aquacomputer and Watercool blocks to see if they make them nicer than EK's. If not, I'll go with an EK.


----------



## Trolle BE

So temped to sell my gtx780 lol
Was planning on going sli again at the end of this year.
Maybe il add some more rads to but im not so sure about that


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> So temped to sell my gtx780 lol


Why would you ever do this? An overclocked GTX780 is still without a doubt faster.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK....meh....
> 
> AC?
> 
> Ooooh yes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What im getting for my S3..


No question, the Aquacomputer blocks are unparalleled in terms of style and quality. However my issue with them is that they don't have any other product that really matches them. They are so unique looking that they don't come close to matching any other parts in a build. I would have loved to use them in my new build but they would clash with every other block and part. I mean heck, they don't even match any other Aquacomputer product really. I'm sure they can be used and done right, but I'm just speaking generally. Again though, they have an absolute masterpiece of a visual design, especially with that delicious blue coolant in them









One nice thing that EK does is that when they update a design style they generally update the whole product line, gpu block, CPU block, ram block, pump top etc... And with the exception of the controversial frosted csq product, their designs are fairly minimalistic so you can tastefully use all-EK product or even mix and match with other brands products with out them clashing.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK....meh....
> 
> AC?
> 
> Ooooh yes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What im getting for my S3..


I hope they make a similar block for the R9 290X, those look fantastic.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I hope they make a similar block for the R9 290X, those look fantastic.


I doubt it. They will have the same issues w/ the VRMs. It would either be a stainless steel top or have one of these silly bridges in the corner which IMO look far worse.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK....meh....
> 
> AC?
> 
> Ooooh yes.


That AC Titan/780 block is without a doubt the most amazing block ever designed. BNeg, it's like you can see into my soul aesthetically.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK....meh....
> 
> AC?
> 
> Ooooh yes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What im getting for my S3..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No question, the Aquacomputer blocks are unparalleled in terms of style and quality. However my issue with them is that they don't have any other product that really matches them. They are so unique looking that they don't come close to matching any other parts in a build. I would have loved to use them in my new build but they would clash with every other block and part. I mean heck, they don't even match any other Aquacomputer product really. I'm sure they can be used and done right, but I'm just speaking generally. Again though, they have an absolute masterpiece of a visual design, especially with that delicious blue coolant in them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One nice thing that EK does is that when they update a design style they generally update the whole product line, gpu block, CPU block, ram block, pump top etc... And with the exception of the controversial frosted csq product, their designs are fairly minimalistic so you can tastefully use all-EK product or even mix and match with other brands products with out them clashing.
Click to expand...

Yeah,agreed. EK do have product line cohesiveness,much like XSPC and Watercool. AC tend to fall short there...It will match my MIPS Iceforce very well tho.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ...It will match my MIPS Iceforce very well tho.


Oooh yes!


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> No question, the Aquacomputer blocks are unparalleled in terms of style and quality. However my issue with them is that they don't have any other product that really matches them. They are so unique looking that they don't come close to matching any other parts in a build. I would have loved to use them in my new build but they would clash with every other block and part. I mean heck, they don't even match any other Aquacomputer product really. I'm sure they can be used and done right, but I'm just speaking generally. Again though, they have an absolute masterpiece of a visual design, especially with that delicious blue coolant in them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One nice thing that EK does is that when they update a design style they generally update the whole product line, gpu block, CPU block, ram block, pump top etc... And with the exception of the controversial frosted csq product, their designs are fairly minimalistic so you can tastefully use all-EK product or even mix and match with other brands products with out them clashing.


Very valid point. I absolutely adore that block design, but it needed some modding to fit into
my build. I'm very happy with the result though:










Looking at AC's lineup, I don't really think it's that bad though, their original colour scheme has always
had a kind of brushed steel/copper/plexi vibe to it (and they later added Nickel versions), so IMO their
CPU block and the Acrylic GPU block don't go against each other that much.

However, while I wouldn't say there are horrible aesthetic incompatibilities (although that is of course
kind of subjective and might be much worse for others' tastes), I do think that they could start looking
into making their designs more consistent. Just imagine a CPU block with that kind of brushed steel
bracket for its plexi top and with a copper base (or Nickel, if you prefer that).


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,agreed. EK do have product line cohesiveness,much like XSPC and Watercool. AC tend to fall short there...It will match my MIPS Iceforce very well tho.


Agreed. They should at least have a CPU block that matches those GPU blocks...would look freakin sweet.

And yeah, it will look nice with the Iceforce


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Agreed. They should at least have a CPU block that matches those GPU blocks...would look freakin sweet.
> 
> And yeah, it will look nice with the Iceforce


Their old Cuplex XT would match it perfectly. AQ really did make their Kryos one ugly block compared to this thing.


----------



## Anoxy

So in an effort to keep this thread relatively clean and on topic, I created a thread for my build. Looking for any tips and advice from you seasoned water coolers.

Just wanted to post that here, because a lot of you are likely just subscribed to this thread and don't browse the forum









Thanks gentlemen, carry on.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So in an effort to keep this thread relatively clean and on topic, I created a thread for my build. Looking for any tips and advice from you seasoned water coolers.
> 
> Just wanted to post that here, because a lot of you are likely just subscribed to this thread and don't browse the forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks gentlemen, carry on.


Subbed to your build log and let me know if you need any further assistance. You'll love those GPU blocks by the way.


----------



## Plutonium10

Just reading a bunch of R9 290X reviews. Loud reference cooler, magma-like temperatures, and awesome performance potential often heavily limited by thermal throttling. This card just might be the best ever reason to water cool GPUs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Agreed. They should at least have a CPU block that matches those GPU blocks...would look freakin sweet.
> 
> And yeah, it will look nice with the Iceforce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Their old Cuplex XT would match it perfectly. AQ really did make their Kryos one ugly block compared to this thing.
Click to expand...

Sexy block,got one myself...



As you say,the Kryos is an ugly child tho.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Their old Cuplex XT would match it perfectly. AQ really did make their Kryos one ugly block compared to this thing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Forgot bout that one...they need to bring that style back....sooooooo much nicer looking than the Kryos


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Their old Cuplex XT would match it perfectly. AQ really did make their Kryos one ugly block compared to this thing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## nismoskyline

New project that will be completed as soon as i can get my hands on a black 1366 mobo


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Their old Cuplex XT would match it perfectly. AQ really did make their Kryos one ugly block compared to this thing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah that was a sweet block, although I'm not a fan of that blue-ish plexi, I'd prefer
an untinted version, or the one B Neg has posted.









Alternatively, the good ol' Cuplex Classic would be a nice match as well. When they
introduced the Kryos they mentioned that between the Kryos and the old Cuplex
Classic you have about a 5 K temp difference on the CPU, which actually isnt't that
bad and would probably still be adequate for most people (or, how about a micro-
structured Cuplex Classic?).

Ah well, one can dream...


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Yeah that was a sweet block, although I'm not a fan of that blue-ish plexi, I'd prefer
> an untinted version, or the one B Neg has posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternatively, the good ol' Cuplex Classic would be a nice match as well. When they
> introduced the Kryos they mentioned that between the Kryos and the old Cuplex
> Classic you have about a 5 K temp difference on the CPU, which actually isnt't that
> bad and would probably still be adequate for most people (or, how about a micro-
> structured Cuplex Classic?).
> 
> Ah well, one can dream...


I believe it is an example of coolant. Other coloured coolant through blue tint would make for some nasty looking colours.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I believe it is an example of coolant. Other coloured coolant through blue tint would make for some nasty looking colours.


Are you sure (I'm honestly not







)? To me it really does look like the Plexi is tinted.
I don't think it would have been that much of a problem with coloured liquids,
back when this block came out people usually still mostly ran clear coolants IIRC.

But yeah, if you run blue-ish plexi and coloured coolants you could get some
rather non-appealing results.


----------



## PC Upgrade

These are the specs and some first photos of my new project ''RED pepper''

Case: Cooler master Haf X
Psu: Corsair AX 860
Mobo: Asus Maximus VI formula
CPU: Intel i7 4770K
Ram: Corsair dominator [email protected] 2000Mhz
Gpu: Asus Gtx 670oc @ sli
SSD: Intel 530 120Gb
Hdd: Seagate 1tb

Watercooling parts:
Cpu block: EKWB EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal+Nickel CPU Block
Vga block: EK-FC670 GTX DCII - Nickel
Backplates EKWB
Bridge: EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel 3-Slot CSQ Plexi
Ram block: EK-RAM Monarch X4 - Acetal+Nickel CSQ
Pump: EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)
2 X Rads: EKWB EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240 Watercooling Radiator - EKWB EK-CoolStream RAD XT 120 Watercooling Radiator
Tank: Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 30 Acetal Black Reservoir
Tube: Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT
Connectors: Alphacool
Fans: 5x Corsair SP 120 performance
Lights: 4x Lamptron FlexLight Pro 15 LED Fire Red + Sharkoon Cold Cathode Light Twin Red 30cm
Cables: Nanoxia sleeved

Some photos with the lights off:


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Are you sure (I'm honestly not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )? To me it really does look like the Plexi is tinted.
> I don't think it would have been that much of a problem with coloured liquids,
> back when this block came out people usually still mostly ran clear coolants IIRC.
> 
> But yeah, if you run blue-ish plexi and coloured coolants you could get some
> rather non-appealing results.


White pastel would look pretty slick behind it i think...otherwise shades of blue would be ok I think....when you get into other colors, i think it would start to look gross


----------



## Atlas670

Hey guys, I'm looking at watercooling for the first time but I am wondering what fittings i will need. I'm not sure about all the angle adapters i would need. Anyone have help, pic is here. http://imgur.com/hYFsJij
Purple- res
light blue-rad
dark blue- mobo
white-cpu
yellow-psu
black-GPU
grey blue- pump

large white are plexi walls
also i would like to cool the 2x GPU and the CPU
thx guys


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> O.K guys back for some more help,i currently use a bitspower 80mm res officially wanted a 150mm but not available in aus at the moment atleast not that i can find,i was pointed towards this kit and i was wondering if the tube on this http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1285&products_id=22332 would fit this res http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_299&products_id=21948 just need the tube would use the top and bottom covers from my current res....


Cam anyone help me out on this....?


----------



## kpoeticg

BP sells all their tubes and endcaps as separate accessories.
I don't know what site would be best for you to buy from but if you check out THIS PerformancePCs page, you'll see what i'm talking about
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atlas670*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking at watercooling for the first time but I am wondering what fittings i will need. I'm not sure about all the angle adapters i would need. Anyone have help, pic is here. http://imgur.com/hYFsJij
> Purple- res
> light blue-rad
> dark blue- mobo
> white-cpu
> yellow-psu
> black-GPU
> grey blue- pump
> 
> large white are plexi walls
> also i would like to cool the 2x GPU and the CPU
> thx guys


It's really tough to tell til you have everything installed. But just from looking at the pic....
I see a straight run from res -> pump -> bottom rad. 90* fitting up to the top rad -> 45* to CPU -> straight run to GPU's (Depends how you wanna link the GPU's), straight or 45* back to res

You should NEVER get exactly as many fittings as you "Think" you need. Always a few extra of everything cuz it's easy to run into issue's that you didn't expect


----------



## Zeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You should NEVER get exactly as many fittings as you "Think" you need. Always a few extra of everything cuz it's easy to run into issue's that you didn't expect


Your not wrong, I made that mistake and when I put it together it didn't look good even although it did on paper. So I've been working on mine for the last 3 weeks to get it to a point that I'm happy with (which I'm still not happy, but making progress).


----------



## By-Tor

So Sexy!!!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My EK Supremacy Elite CPU block has arrived. It's sexier than I thought!


----------



## Michalius

Yeah, those EK blocks look way better in person. I've never really seen a picture do them justice.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Cam anyone help me out on this....?


According to Bitspower yes they are interchangeable.

http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092610&kind2=7


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> According to Bitspower yes they are interchangeable.
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092610&kind2=7


So from what you've read you think the tube with that kit will be compatable with the res covers from my 80mm res,i just need the tube to put my 80mm top cover on it,because i cnt find a 150mm anywhere....


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My EK Supremacy Elite CPU block has arrived. It's sexier than I thought!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a sexy block.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That's a sexy block.


Thanks, hopefully it's up and running by this weekend.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So from what you've read you think the tube with that kit will be compatable with the res covers from my 80mm res,i just need the tube to put my 80mm top cover on it,because i cnt find a 150mm anywhere....


It will work.
I have the tiny 40mm res, and the caps fit on my upgrade kit 250.
As mentioned before, the bits and accessories are sold separately to allow maximum customization.

When I got the 250 upgrade kit, I purchased another acrylic top with three inlets instead of the stock single inlet top. The tops fit on all their Z tubes, which is what the D5 upgrade kit consists of.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So from what you've read you think the tube with that kit will be compatable with the res covers from my 80mm res,i just need the tube to put my 80mm top cover on it,because i cnt find a 150mm anywhere....


You don't need to buy a kit if you just want a bigger res. All the BP res parts are interchangeable and sold separately. You just need to buy the tube


----------



## Pheozero

So my XSPC bay res decided to start failing after 5 months, but whatever, I'll take money out of the "buy new GPU" fund and finish up my cooling. I think I have all the parts in the checkout that I need, but I have a question. If I don't have a drill to mount the reservoir to my case, what other options would I have? I'm going to be using this res:


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So from what you've read you think the tube with that kit will be compatable with the res covers from my 80mm res,i just need the tube to put my 80mm top cover on it,because i cnt find a 150mm anywhere....




Bitspower Water Tank Z-Tube 150mm - Acrylic
$14.99

It's HERE on Performance-PC's. I'm sure you can find it somewhere closer to you. No reason to waste money when the part you need is sold by itself
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> So my XSPC bay res decided to start failing after 5 months, but whatever, I'll take money out of the "buy new GPU" fund and finish up my cooling. I think I have all the parts in the checkout that I need, but I have a question. If I don't have a drill to mount the reservoir to my case, what other options would I have? I'm going to be using this res:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Depending on your setup, you could use something like an (UN)Designs Z Bracket to mount it to a rad or fan mount



HERE


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> It will work.
> I have the tiny 40mm res, and the caps fit on my upgrade kit 250.
> As mentioned before, the bits and accessories are sold separately to allow maximum customization.
> 
> When I got the 250 upgrade kit, I purchased another acrylic top with three inlets instead of the stock single inlet top. The tops fit on all their Z tubes, which is what the D5 upgrade kit consists of.


Thinking i may give it a try....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You don't need to buy a kit if you just want a bigger res. All the BP res parts are interchangeable and sold separately. You just need to buy the tube


Saw your post and thanks for the link,price is cheap but shipping to aus is $40 + $14 for the part,$54 in all,might as well buy the kit here for $49 and next day delivery....


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i posted that hours ago too. Both posts i said i was just giving you the link for reference so you can find it closer to u


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, i posted that hours ago too. Both posts i said i was just giving you the link for reference so you can find it closer to u


I understand and thx again,will use the weekend to see if i can in fact find it closer and cheaper than the kit....


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Depending on your setup, you could use something like an (UN)Designs Z Bracket to mount it to a rad or fan mount
> 
> HERE


Thanks for that, but it seems to be missing another part or something. I see how it mounts to the fan, but how would I mount it to the pump and res?


----------



## nyk20z3

Rad/Res/Fan mock up for my XB Build -


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> It will work.
> I have the tiny 40mm res, and the caps fit on my upgrade kit 250.
> As mentioned before, the bits and accessories are sold separately to allow maximum customization.
> 
> When I got the 250 upgrade kit, I purchased another acrylic top with three inlets instead of the stock single inlet top. The tops fit on all their Z tubes, which is what the D5 upgrade kit consists of.


Same here Reaper! I got a couple 150s and a 250. All of them are interchangeable.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Thanks for that, but it seems to be missing another part or something. I see how it mounts to the fan, but how would I mount it to the pump and res?


How would you mount them to your case if you drilled into it? I don't have an X-Res so i don't know what it comes with for mounting. There's a bunch of different brackets like that.
I don't know enough about your setup to answer your question for you. But it seems like that cart you posted is from FrozenCPU. Go into the Liquid Cooling section and scroll through Radiator Accessories, Pump Accessories, and Reservoir Accessories. You should find something that'll match up with the X-Res mount and give you an option to mount it on a fan, rad, or fan mount


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Thanks for that, but it seems to be missing another part or something. I see how it mounts to the fan, but how would I mount it to the pump and res?


This will work for you and what i use -

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_987&products_id=32626


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Rad/Res/Fan mock up for my XB Build -


I use that same UN Z2 Bracket on my pump/res config mounted onto my rad too, very sturdy!


----------



## kpoeticg

I think he used the Bitspower Water Tank Mount Bracket


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think he used the Bitspower Water Tank Mount Bracket


Oops..pic bad on mobile


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Distilled vs Deionized water for my loop?

Which should I use for my loop? plan on building my first loop this weekend and wanna use clear water, however i'm not sure what type of water I should use. Any advice?


----------



## szeged

distilled fo sho, btw your hydro copper should arrive today


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> distilled fo sho, btw your hydro copper should arrive today


Thanks for the reply and thanks for the block. I forgot to order water, so I'm gonna buy a gallon of distilled water and hopefully all goes well.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Thanks for the reply and thanks for the block. I forgot to order water, so I'm gonna buy a gallon of distilled water and hopefully all goes well.


grab two gallons just incase, save yourself a trip to the store







i made that mistake once. never again.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> grab two gallons just incase, save yourself a trip to the store
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i made that mistake once. never again.


Lol, yeah that will suck. 2 gallons it is


----------



## LiquidHaus

this thread needs more photos!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> this thread needs more photos!


So add some


----------



## FiveEYZ

Picture of my upcoming sli build, just need a rivbe..


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveEYZ*
> 
> Picture of my upcoming sli build, just need a rivbe..


Witch water block are you using with the EVGA backplate ?


----------



## szeged

those appear to be EK acetyl copper xxl titan blocks if im not mistaken.


----------



## FiveEYZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Witch water block are you using with the EVGA backplate ?


Im using EK-FC titan se Acetal


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveEYZ*
> 
> Im using EK-FC titan se Acetal


Thanks
And the screws that come with the EK block
Work with the EVGA backplate or did you get
Different screws to make it work ?


----------



## FiveEYZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Thanks
> And the screws that come with the EK block
> Work with the EVGA backplate or did you get
> Different screws to make it work ?


I modified the screws that came whit the ek block, you can see the procedure on my build log.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveEYZ*
> 
> I modified the screws that came whit the ek block, you can see the procedure on my build log.


Ya that is what I was thinking
Thanks for the reply


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> So add some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


okay okay!
borrowed my brothers 40d to take some shots as I am selling (or trying to at least) the AMD components and will revision the build to accommodate Intel this time around.


----------



## PC Upgrade

Some more pictures from ''Red Pepper'' with lights on


----------



## Maximus Knight

WOWOWOWOWOW! SWEET!


----------



## Inviso

Check out my Build Log!


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my Build Log!


NICE paintjob! love the swirls! marble-like


----------



## Trolle BE

So my nanoxia fans for my rad arrived.they send me the 1000rpm version instead of the 1500rpm version.
Think il use the 1k version but il put 6 on my rad instead of 3 no idea if that is any good


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> Some more pictures from ''Red Pepper'' with lights on
> 
> 
> 
> Nice lighting on the res


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> Some more pictures from ''Red Pepper'' with lights on
> 
> 
> 
> Nice lighting on the res
Click to expand...

Is that the Photon 270?


----------



## GhostDog99

Some more pictures for you guys

my 3 rigs

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6837.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6820.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6846.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6758.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_6759.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/Water-Cooling Rig 3/IMG_0310.jpg.html


----------



## defiler2k

A question for our resident EK rep, well maybe two

Im going acrylic and was looking at the HD Tubes to link my cards, I'm on the sniper 5 and I have my cards on both the PCI-E16 slots (3 empty slots between the 2 cards. I was wondering if this is the right sizing of tubing for the links or do I need to make my own.

EK-HDTube

Also, when is the block for this board coming out?


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Im going acrylic and was looking at the HD Tubes to link my cards, I'm on the sniper 5 and I have my cards on both the PCI-E16 slots (3 empty slots between the 2 cards. I was wondering if this is the right sizing of tubing for the links or do I need to make my own.
> 
> EK-HDTube


While not Derick I can tell you that that is not the right kit, that is for custom length work you need this one:

EK HDTube 4 Slot


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my Build Log!


Is that Alsa Crazer paint? I was thinking of using some of that (different color) on my chassis


----------



## khemist

New blocks, replacement Titan and new mobo.

Tubing is getting changed to EK matte Black just as soon as i get it and also switching to mATX case soon.

Wasn't planning on getting a Green mobo hence i'm still on the Blue liquid.


----------



## nismoskyline

coming along


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> coming along


Starting to look really good.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Starting to look really good.


I spied a BramSLI on a Monster PC video yesterday trying to get first comment.........


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I spied a BramSLI on a Monster PC video yesterday trying to get first comment.........


And what makes you think that was me? I'm not saying that it wasn't, but how do you know for certain that was me?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New blocks, replacement Titan and new mobo.
> 
> Tubing is getting changed to EK matte Black just as soon as i get it and also switching to mATX case soon.
> 
> Wasn't planning on getting a Green mobo hence i'm still on the Blue liquid.


Looking good as usual. What kind of mATX case are you getting?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> coming along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice rig. I'd route the tubes behind the mobo tray, it would look cleaner.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good as usual. What kind of mATX case are you getting?


I'm undecided just now, going to have to think about it for a while.. it's going to be used with my external 480 rad setup.


----------



## PC Upgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Is that the Photon 270?


No it is the Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 30 Acetal Black Reservoir with Sharkoon Cold Cathode Light Twin Red 30cm


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> coming along


Are those dual-PCB's GTX295's?If yes, I have one, but it's dead (all it needs is to change a choke that cracked and hopefully it'll work again, I just can't find those R10 ) Not very good experiences with it
I hope you plan on waterblocking them, because mine was absurdly hot, even with the cooler on max. Also, coating those chokes in ANYTHING that keeps their vibration under control is a good idea, they can make a rather irritating noise.


----------



## Yakikuze

Here are my new wc components for my FT-03 MINI
(BuildLog) MagnusOpus2.0


----------



## MURDoctrine

Hey guys I have a question. I currently have a 670 FTW with a 680 wb. Would I be able to get a standard pcb 670 and use a 670 wb with the 680 wb or will their be issues with the inlet/outlet placements?


----------



## kpoeticg

Does anybody know where i can get dimensions for any of the XSPC AX Series rads with the shroud removed? Thanx in advance


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yakikuze*
> 
> Here are my new wc components for my FT-03 MINI
> (BuildLog) MagnusOpus2.0


Very nice! I bet you're excited


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK....meh....
> 
> AC?
> 
> Ooooh yes.
> 
> 
> 
> What im getting for my S3..


that is the block i had "quoted" for in the dream rig contest for OCN. its such a pretty looking block... with a r-atx system.. puts this block facing up... showing all its beauty


----------



## Anoxy

I noticed somebody posted a "4-pin power distribution PCB" earlier. Is that just if you don't want to use a fan controller?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I noticed somebody posted a "4-pin power distribution PCB" earlier. Is that just if you don't want to use a fan controller?


That would most likely be me. Nah, it's just a substitute until I can get a good controller. Probably a Aquaero or a Lamptron. I pay for my classes myself, which doesn't leave me with much cash to splurge on WC parts. I buy parts when I get a chance


----------



## steelkevin

@EK Reps,
My 280X DC2T is getting here within a matter of hours (minutes if I'm lucky) any updates on the water blocks ? Now that you've released the 290X ones and have time for other projects it should go pretty fast, right







?

@All,

D5s are MASSIVE Oo !

I thought they were DDCs with the round part below in terms of size from all of your photos. My friend to whom it belongs was shocked by the size of it too.

How can all these awesome photos not show that ? Now that I've seen one in person I'm really happy that I have a DDC.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> D5s are MASSIVE Oo !
> 
> I thought they were DDCs with the round part below in terms of size from all of your photos. My friend to whom it belongs was shocked by the size of it too.
> 
> How can all these awesome photos not show that ? Now that I've seen one in person I'm really happy that I have a DDC.


Lol, my feelings exactly. I'll take my compact and hot-ness ddc


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got another question for you guys, is there much difference between a single set of fans on 5v vs 7v on rads?

Im thinking when i build my loop I might run my 5 AP-15s on 5v and my D5 on 2 or 3 depending on temps, single fans on AX360 and AX240 rads. Just thought Id ask to see if anyone know the answer

Thanks


----------



## LiquidHaus

brain storming


----------



## wermad

Love mockups


----------



## Egami

I like your brain. Looks tempting.


----------



## Cosworth

Hey guys my system is due for a fluid change in February and I'm thinking of upgrading to a new water cooled nVidia or AMD gpu, to keep up with the next generation of games but can't decide which is best. My initial ideas were the 6gb Titan and 7990 respectively any thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> that is the block i had "quoted" for in the dream rig contest for OCN. its such a pretty looking block... with a r-atx system.. puts this block facing up... showing all its beauty


Hehe, funny you should mention it, that's exactly what I'm planning to do with my AC block. R-ATX FTW!


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> Hey guys my system is due for a fluid change in February and I'm thinking of upgrading to a new water cooled nVidia or AMD gpu, to keep up with the next generation of games but can't decide which is best. My initial ideas were the 6gb Titan and 7990 respectively any thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free


AMD R9 290x would be a great GPU too, cheaper than Titan with very similar performance (and it is not a dual-GPU card). You would have to check which ones are water block compatible however.


----------



## Cosworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> AMD R9 290x would be a great GPU too, cheaper than Titan with very similar performance (and it is not a dual-GPU card). You would have to check which ones are water block compatible however.


Thanks I know that both Titan and the 780 have blocks available but I don't think the 290 has one yet though there's plenty of time for a few to come out


----------



## VSG

The 290(X and non-X) already have blocks from EK and will soon have Swiftech blocks as well.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New blocks, replacement Titan and new mobo.
> 
> Tubing is getting changed to EK matte Black just as soon as i get it and also switching to mATX case soon.
> 
> Wasn't planning on getting a Green mobo hence i'm still on the Blue liquid.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> coming along






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I'm undecided just now, going to have to think about it for a while.. it's going to be used with my external 480 rad setup.


Same here. Want to go small and mATX seems to be the sweet spot. I'm also indecisive as to which case I should get. Checking out a Parvum build right now, looks like a good choice.....I'm not a fan of the front panel though.


----------



## Cosworth

Really I didn't know that thanks for the heads up I'm using an El block on my 580 at the moment


----------



## Cosworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The 290(X and non-X) already have blocks from EK and will soon have Swiftech blocks as well.


Really I didn't know that thanks for the heads up I'm using an El block on my 580 at the moment


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New blocks, replacement Titan and new mobo.
> 
> Tubing is getting changed to EK matte Black just as soon as i get it and also switching to mATX case soon.
> 
> Wasn't planning on getting a Green mobo hence i'm still on the Blue liquid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> coming along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I'm undecided just now, going to have to think about it for a while.. it's going to be used with my external 480 rad setup.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Same here. Want to go small and mATX seems to be the sweet spot. I'm also indecisive as to which case I should get. Checking out a Parvum build right now, looks like a good choice.....I'm not a fan of the front panel though.
Click to expand...

They can make you a custom one easily enough if you ask them


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Need a 90D angle on top of the res and different GPU Blocks. Coming along slowly but surely.


----------



## Anoxy

Anyone know if FrozenCPU has black friday sales? Any reason to wait or should I just start ordering those parts?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Anyone know if FrozenCPU has black friday sales? Any reason to wait or should I just start ordering those parts?


Cyber Monday, not Black Friday.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Hey guys I have a question. I currently have a 670 FTW with a 680 wb. Would I be able to get a standard pcb 670 and use a 670 wb with the 680 wb or will their be issues with the inlet/outlet placements?


If i understand you correctly, you want to run a 670 FTW with a reference 670-dont, they are not compatible.
As for the different wb, depends on who the manufacturer is-you didn't mention what make of wb you have








Either way, id contact the manufacturer to be sure

-but its all moot since the cards can't (or shouldn't be) run together.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> AMD R9 290x would be a great GPU too, cheaper than Titan with very similar performance (and it is not a dual-GPU card). You would have to check which ones are water block compatible however.


AMD R9 290x vastly over rated for what they are, although the mrp has dropped.

Que the fanboys.................. (im not replying to any comments-we are OT anyway, not a GPU thread







)

780 just as good.

Have a look here for *example*:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OHKWMgBhvA&feature=em-uploademail

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lZ3Z6Niir4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> Hey guys my system is due for a fluid change in February and I'm thinking of upgrading to a new water cooled nVidia or AMD gpu, to keep up with the next generation of games but can't decide which is best. My initial ideas were the 6gb Titan and 7990 respectively any thoughts?


Titans are a complete waste of money for gaming-get a gaming card, and spend the money left over on something else


----------



## Cosworth

Certainly quite a bit to think about thanks for the advice


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> Certainly quite a bit to think about thanks for the advice


Yw,

have a look at the vids that i posted, it will give you the information that you are seeking, in a more in depth format (gaming advice also given)


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> @EK Reps,
> My 280X DC2T is getting here within a matter of hours (minutes if I'm lucky) any updates on the water blocks ? Now that you've released the 290X ones and have time for other projects it should go pretty fast, right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


"Soon"


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How come? The GTX780 and Titan have a full plexi version. I don't mean the whole block being plexi, I mean the top part where you can see it, not also the part in contact with the card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the answer is the same, then that sucks, I was hoping for a full clear block for this card.


http://goo.gl/b9OMDy



Is that what you wanted?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> http://goo.gl/b9OMDy
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that what you wanted?


No he means more like this



I'm wondering the exact same thing =)


----------



## luciddreamer124

Does anyone know if EK's 7990 water block allows you to use the stock backplate that comes with reference 7990s?


----------



## Pheozero

How would I go about cleaning fittings? Vinegar and warm water bath?


----------



## TheEnergy

best 140mm radiator fan? (currently using the NZXT x60 kraken)


----------



## s0up2up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> No he means more like this
> [Image Snip]
> 
> I'm wondering the exact same thing =)


Same! Would be an insta-buy for me!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> How would I go about cleaning fittings? Vinegar and warm water bath?


That's the way i know how to do it. Don't go crazy with the vinegar though. Couldn't hurt to soak em for a while in Distilled after that to get the leftover vinegar out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> best 140mm radiator fan? (currently using the NZXT x60 kraken)


My answer to that question is always Akasa Vipers. I heard the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex's are real good too. Bgears B-Blasters are good, just a little loud. Swiftech Helix's are Ok. Noctua A-14's are Ok.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> best 140mm radiator fan? (currently using the NZXT x60 kraken)


NoiseBlocker PK-3


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's the way i know how to do it. Don't go crazy with the vinegar though. Couldn't hurt to soak em for a while in Distilled after that to get the leftover vinegar out.


Thanks man. With or without the O-rings?


----------



## kpoeticg

Not your O-Rings. I could be wrong but i feel like soaking O-Rings in a Vinegar solution could be bad for em. If they need to be cleaned at all, probly just some soap and water. Or just some Distilled even....


----------



## Yakikuze

Hi all, u guys can check out my worklog.
MagnusOpus2.0 [FT03mini] sff+mod+wc+rigid tube


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Soon"


Thank you I guess ^^.

I'll just keep checking your fb and website


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Could someone recommend some sli adapters for EK Titan water blocks. Im using slot 1 and 3 of my motherboard and not really sure what would fit. Thanks.


----------



## Inviso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Could someone recommend some sli adapters for EK Titan water blocks. Im using slot 1 and 3 of my motherboard and not really sure what would fit. Thanks.


You can either go with the EK HD tubes which are just short runs of acrylic tube, or get a bridge.

or with something like this

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot.html

Find your water blocks on the ek store and it will link you directly to the pages of parts that will work.

You'll need the links for the cards to connect them to the bridge.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-bridges-links/ek-fc-link-geforce.html


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Could someone recommend some sli adapters for EK Titan water blocks. Im using slot 1 and 3 of my motherboard and not really sure what would fit. Thanks.


When you say SLI Adapter do you mean SLI bridge or SLI fittings

I will assume you what Fittings for connecting them in your loop

Here are some options for you

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=27588

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37221


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> You can either go with the EK HD tubes which are just short runs of acrylic tube, or get a bridge.
> 
> or with something like this
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-3-slot.html
> 
> Find your water blocks on the ek store and it will link you directly to the pages of parts that will work.
> 
> You'll need the links for the cards to connect them to the bridge.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-bridges-links/ek-fc-link-geforce.html


Thanks! +1


----------



## Trolle BE

Hmm fittings 6 fans on my rad might be more trouble then i expected.the thermal armor of my sabertooth is being a *****


----------



## Inviso

Post a picture of the problem?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

This is probably a very stupid question but what is the lowest end card with a full cover waterblock? 660? 7850?
I don't game much and want a low end card but also want something that I can add to my loop with a full cover block.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's the way i know how to do it. Don't go crazy with the vinegar though. Couldn't hurt to soak em for a while in Distilled after that to get the leftover vinegar out.
> My answer to that question is always Akasa Vipers. I heard the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex's are real good too. Bgears B-Blasters are good, just a little loud. Swiftech Helix's are Ok. Noctua A-14's are Ok.


Helix 140s suck. Shelled mine after 2 minutes. Yate Loon ftw when it comes to 140mm fans,


----------



## Devastater6194

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> This is probably a very stupid question but what is the lowest end card with a full cover waterblock? 660? 7850?
> I don't game much and want a low end card but also want something that I can add to my loop with a full cover block.


Yeah the GTX 660 and the HD 7850 are the lowest current gen cards with full cover blocks. If you can get a decent cooler then you probably don't need to put it under water. Low end cards don't make that much heat.


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devastater6194*
> 
> Yeah the GTX 660 and the HD 7850 are the lowest current gen cards with full cover blocks. If you can get a decent cooler then you probably don't need to put it under water. Low end cards don't make that much heat.


i would try my best to get a single 7950 and watercool it. reason being, since you don't game "too much" you won't care about the potential crossfire driver issues. It's not that much expensive than the 7850, and I say you might get a whole full year or two worth of future proofing more than the 7850. there is a substantial performance difference between the 7850 and 7950 at a slightly higher price.

currently 7950 = 230
currently 7850 = 120

*BUT* the 7950 very frequently dips below the $175 mark with various sales going on. Black friday you will see the 7950 for $150-160.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> i would try my best to get a single 7950 and watercool it. reason being, since you don't game "too much" you won't care about the potential crossfire driver issues. It's not that much expensive than the 7850, and I say you might get a whole full year or two worth of future proofing more than the 7850. there is a substantial performance difference between the 7850 and 7950 at a slightly higher price.
> 
> currently 7950 = 230
> currently 7850 = 120
> 
> *BUT* the 7950 very frequently dips below the $175 mark with various sales going on. Black friday you will see the 7950 for $150-160.


Okay thanks, that sounds like a really good idea!


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Okay thanks, that sounds like a really good idea!


http://slickdeals.net/ - search for HD 7950 and see the sales of the past couple weeks.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devastater6194*
> 
> Yeah the GTX 660 and the HD 7850 are the lowest current gen cards with full cover blocks. If you can get a decent cooler then you probably don't need to put it under water. Low end cards don't make that much heat.


GTX650TiBo actually. It shares the PCB of a GTX660.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> GTX650Ti actually. It shares the PCB of a GTX660.


Really? The GTX 650ti boost was my top choice...
I completely understand the 7950 is a whole different class of card but I feel it is too overkill for me (Did I really just say that!?







)


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Anyone know if FrozenCPU has black friday sales? Any reason to wait or should I just start ordering those parts?


They have both Cyber Monday and Black Friday


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Does anyone know if EK's 7990 water block allows you to use the stock backplate that comes with reference 7990s?


I'm also curious about this.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Really? The GTX 650ti boost was my top choice...
> I completely understand the 7950 is a whole different class of card but I feel it is too overkill for me (Did I really just say that!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=999


----------



## Devastater6194

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Really? The GTX 650ti boost was my top choice...
> I completely understand the 7950 is a whole different class of card but I feel it is too overkill for me (Did I really just say that!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Too Overkill? Blasphemy!!! You need to watch what you're saying round here or you'll be struck down















Yeah it turns out there is an EVGA 650ti boost that uses the PCB of a 660. They did the same thing with the 670 FTW using the PCB of a 680.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devastater6194*
> 
> Too Overkill? Blasphemy!!! You need to watch what you're saying round here or you'll be struck down
> Yeah it turns out there is an EVGA 650ti boost that uses the PCB of a 660. They did the same thing with the 670 FTW using the PCB of a 680.











lol
If if makes you feel better I want to water cool a low end card








Unless I can find a 7950 on sale I'm going to go with the boost then. If I have read correctly then the 7950 will not support my 2 DVI and 1 HDMI monitors, I would need a display port adapter, that's one of the main reasons for me liking the boost.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know my 7870 allows for 2 DVI's and an HDMI hook up but would think the 7950 would be similar if I remember correctly


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know my 7870 allows for 2 DVI's and an HDMI hook up but would think the 7950 would be similar if I remember correctly.


My old 5750 does too, but not all can be connected at once. I'll do some more research. I know for a fact the new AMD cards can have all at the same time.


----------



## RickRockerr

Here's how I mounted NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 280 rad on fractal R4:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Im going to smooth the sharp edges of grill (if that's the right word) and replace the tubing outside the case with angled fittings.
And sorry for the cellphone pics, camera's battery was empty. There is much work to do because the look isn't very clean







going to change PSU and sleeve cables.
And when my budget allows Im going to SLI.


----------



## Andreoid

*Anfi-tec RAM003* Dominator
compatibel with Dominator memory aith DHX Pro technology
for mounting the Corsair Dominator AirFlow Pro (CMXAFPRO)


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Helix 140s suck. Shelled mine after 2 minutes. Yate Loon ftw when it comes to 140mm fans,


I regret getting the Swiftech Helix 120mm fans for my top 360 rad. They have a nasty tendency when undervolted into what should be silence, where they will go out of balance, and cause a racket. And since I unfortunately have the Bitfenix Recon fan controller, it doesn't provide a constant voltage to those fans, so you can constantly hear them changing RPMs, which you can't even hear on the AP-15s. Seriously debating on just chucking them in the trash and ordering 3 more AP-15s (which I have 2 on my bottom rad).

I would not, under any circumstances, ever again recommend the Helix fans, either on the 120mm or 140mm flavors.


----------



## szeged

just recently watched this




thought it was pretty interesting


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Helix 140s suck. Shelled mine after 2 minutes. Yate Loon ftw when it comes to 140mm fans,


LOL. The Viper's are the only one's I've actually owned so can recommend highly. I was just trying to give options. I feel like an Akasa Salesman everytime some1 asks about 140's in here. I always heard the Helix's were "OK", that's why i said it. No personal experience with em tho. =P


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> just recently watched this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thought it was pretty interesting


Wow +Rep









Never ever would've taken 10 minutes to watch such a video on my own not to mention actually go through the process of having the idea of wanting to and finding it







.

Was the laser engraving at normal speed or fast forwarded ? If that was at normal speed then wow, it's really impressive.
I wonder what that milk / clay like liquid was too.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I regret getting the Swiftech Helix 120mm fans for my top 360 rad. They have a nasty tendency when undervolted into what should be silence, where they will go out of balance, and cause a racket. And since I unfortunately have the Bitfenix Recon fan controller, it doesn't provide a constant voltage to those fans, so you can constantly hear them changing RPMs, which you can't even hear on the AP-15s. Seriously debating on just chucking them in the trash and ordering 3 more AP-15s (which I have 2 on my bottom rad).
> 
> I would not, under any circumstances, ever again recommend the Helix fans, either on the 120mm or 140mm flavors.


I agree completely. I have 3 120mm Helix's, and they are absolute garbage. They will be replaced by Sythe GT's once I receive them later this week.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Wow +Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never ever would've taken 10 minutes to watch such a video on my own not to mention actually go through the process of having the idea of wanting to and finding it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Was the laser engraving at normal speed or fast forwarded ? If that was at normal speed then wow, it's really impressive.
> I wonder what that milk / clay like liquid was too.


i think its at normal speed, i use a mill like this at work from time to time, but never on anything so intricate or small, very very interesting work done here imo.

now if only they would let me use a laser


----------



## dervladimir

_waiting for PSU_


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Wow +Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never ever would've taken 10 minutes to watch such a video on my own not to mention actually go through the process of having the idea of wanting to and finding it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Was the laser engraving at normal speed or fast forwarded ? If that was at normal speed then wow, it's really impressive.
> I wonder what that milk / clay like liquid was too.


The laser engraving is normal speed









"milk / clay like liquid was too" .... - coolant to the end mill


----------



## szeged

yeah the white liquid is cutting oil diluted with water it appears, same thing i use at work im guessing.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> just recently watched this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thought it was pretty interesting


i wasnt the only one drooling right...? i want their acrylic glass block !!! its so pretty !!!!!!!

 

in R-ATX ... facing up.. *drools*


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> I'm also curious about this.


Turns out you can: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868218.pdf


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> i wasnt the only one drooling right...? i want their acrylic glass block !!! its so pretty ><


LOL, def not the only one drooling. My moms husband owns a company that makes torque wrenches and I'm pretty sure they have most of, if not all of the machinery used in that vid. It actually made me wanna design a Block and ask him for some time in his factory LOLLLLL. Even though i don't know the first thing about CNC Machines, Product Design, or Laser Engraving


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Black Friday is going to be interesting. Might pick up another 7950 and water block for some Crossfire action. I haven't ran a Crossfire setup since my ancient 5770 setup I bought when the 5xxx series first launched, so it will be interesting to see how far Crossfire has come since then.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Turns out you can: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868218.pdf


Cool, +Rep for that, even though I might not ever watercool this thing. But man, do I really need it...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Soon"
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you I guess ^^.
> 
> I'll just keep checking your fb and website
Click to expand...

Facebook usually receives the quickest updates 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Turns out you can: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868218.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Cool, +Rep for that, even though I might not ever watercool this thing. But man, do I really need it...
Click to expand...

Do eeeeeet


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Do eeeeeet


Just for you, Derick.

When I have the money.


----------



## kpoeticg

derick, any chance you can comment on whether you guys have already launched you're entire reference 290x block series? I'm about to order some WC + Modding supplies, and i kinda wanna make absolutely sure you guys aren't gonna be releasing a full acrylic top version before i order the one's you guys have listed right now. I read somebody's post that it's not possible because you need the metal plate for heat transfer. Is there a difference in the GPU's that you release full acrylic top versions for? Like the Titan?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> derick, any chance you can comment on whether you guys have already launched you're entire reference 290x block series? I'm about to order some WC + Modding supplies, and i kinda wanna make absolutely sure you guys aren't gonna be releasing a full acrylic top version before i order the one's you guys have listed right now. I read somebody's post that it's not possible because you need the metal plate for heat transfer. Is there a difference in the GPU's that you release full acrylic top versions for? Like the Titan?


The metal plate has nothing to do w/ heat transfer. They use it because it isn't possible to mill down acrylic or acetal thin enough for clearance over the VRMs. Almost all GPU blocks will have this. Nvidia GPUs have inferior VRMs that aren't as high which is why there is no metal plate on most reference cards.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, that's interesting. Thanx for explaining that for me. I keep going back and forth. I decide to just order a cpl of the Copper/Acrylic blocks, then i see a pic of the Titan Clear block, and don't make the purchase.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> derick, any chance you can comment on whether you guys have already launched you're entire reference 290x block series? I'm about to order some WC + Modding supplies, and i kinda wanna make absolutely sure you guys aren't gonna be releasing a full acrylic top version before i order the one's you guys have listed right now. I read somebody's post that it's not possible because you need the metal plate for heat transfer. Is there a difference in the GPU's that you release full acrylic top versions for? Like the Titan?
> 
> 
> 
> The metal plate has nothing to do w/ heat transfer. They use it because it isn't possible to mill down acrylic or acetal thin enough for clearance over the VRMs. Almost all GPU blocks will have this. Nvidia GPUs have inferior VRMs that aren't as high which is why there is no metal plate on most reference cards.
Click to expand...

^

AFAIK the 5 reference 290X blocks we have out now will be the only ones.


----------



## szeged

hey derick go check the ek club thread


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for confirming that derick!!


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Do you guys think that it would be a good idea to remove a row of fans from my top 420mm rad so I could add an extra 120mm rad on the back of my case? My goal here is trying to get away with a lower fan speed.


----------



## kpoeticg

I think Push/Pull on a 420 will allow better speeds -> cooling than removing a row and adding a 120. This might be debatable tho.....


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Yeah, I'm kind of starting to think that at best the 120mm rad in the back will pretty much just make up for the loss the extra row of fans.


----------



## mbed0123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I only washed it with warm water with tea spon of vinager flushed all my loop before the final Distilled + biocide. Since they never mentioned what it really does and what it is made out of. So I don't want it in it.


Do the research.... I want to say I found out that they have corrosive chemicals in there that don't play well with copper and or multi-metal like setups. I can't find it online, but this did point out that it doesn't say JACK about how it does with particular metals just plastics and seals it seems

http://www.tylerindustries.com/B2B/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=80

And all it says is that it "flushes" your system of foreign debris and material left over from the manufacture process.... Hell no I wouldn't/DID NOT use it in my setup......


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Turns out you can: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868218.pdf


Am I the only one who noticed the Xbox 360 cpu?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> Am I the only one who noticed the Xbox 360 cpu?


Not anymore.


----------



## RickRockerr

Better quality pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Kenshiro 26

Beginning my long journey into custom water cooling.









I'm going to go with this GPU block >>> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-290x-original-csq-nickel.html

Didn't really have a set budget in mind, just trying to gauge what I'll need and what would work best.

I'm open to any suggestions for pump, reservoir, tubing, fittings, fans, coolant and radiator.

Would a 240 or 280mm radiator be enough cooling for the CPU and GPU?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> Beginning my long journey into custom water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go with this GPU block >>> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-290x-original-csq-nickel.html
> 
> Didn't really have a set budget in mind, just trying to gauge what I'll need and what would work best.
> 
> I'm open to any suggestions for pump, reservoir, tubing, fittings, fans, coolant and radiator.
> 
> Would a 240 or 280mm radiator be enough cooling for the CPU and GPU?


From what i have learned here its that 1x120 rad per block + 1 additional 120,so in your case nothing less than a 360 rad....You are in the right place i'm still a newb so the other vets will assist you better....


----------



## derickwm

You'll be all set to go if you pick up one of out kits








includes everything you need to get started. Just add in the GPU block and you have a complete CPU+GPU loop.

If you can fit a 360 I'd recommend that. A 240 will be sufficient but may not give you the temps you were hoping for.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits.html


----------



## Destrto

Quick question to the EK rep.. Does the EK-DDC 3.2 X-Res come with any fillcap blanks or plugs, or anything similar?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> Beginning my long journey into custom water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go with this GPU block >>> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-290x-original-csq-nickel.html
> 
> Didn't really have a set budget in mind, just trying to gauge what I'll need and what would work best.
> 
> I'm open to any suggestions for pump, reservoir, tubing, fittings, fans, coolant and radiator.
> 
> Would a 240 or 280mm radiator be enough cooling for the CPU and GPU?


Nice GPU block. Depending on your case, is that someone can suggest water cooling components.

If you can fit a 240, then you might also have space for an extra 120mm. Will a 240 be enough for CPU and GPU? absolutely.

For pump get the Swiftech MCP655. I got mine from Performance PC for 89USD.
Res- you can pick anything you like. won't really matter.
Tubing- Primochil Advanced LTR or Neoprene
Fittings - compression just be sure to match them with the tube size.
Fans -You will need Static Pressure/Radiator fans
Coolant- distilled water with a kill coil or biocide additives.
Radiator - Alphacool Rads are really nice.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Nice GPU block. Depending on your case, is that someone can suggest water cooling components.
> 
> If you can fit a 240, then you might also have space for an extra 120mm. *Will a 120 be enough for CPU and GPU? absolutely*.


I hope that's not what you really meant Oo.


----------



## VSG

Did you say a 120mm rad is enough for CPU + GPU or am I mistaken?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Water cooling q. So I just read a post that automotive antifreeze is bad in a loop? I just put a little bit in my loop with distilled water to prevent corrosion and algae...


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Water cooling q. So I just read a post that automotive antifreeze is bad in a loop? I just put a little bit in my loop with distilled water to prevent corrosion and algae...


Why not just get a kill coil?


----------



## gdubc

Many of the new auto antifreeezes are corrosive in that they sort of eat a layer of metal away and use the prohibitors to condition the surface.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Many of the new auto antifreeezes are corrosive in that they sort of eat a layer of metal away and use the prohibitors to condition the surface.


Oh this stuff isn't new. I've had it for a few years, never opened it, still sealed till now...
I added about 4fl oz for 1 gal of distilled water 3% concentration.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've heard of people doing something similar to that. I have no idea what type of antifreeze is "OK" to use or how much it should be diluted. I'm pretty sure it's possible to use antifreeze as an additive tho. You should make sure you research it tho, and not just randomly buy antifreeze and poor in whatever amount seems right


----------



## JohnnyEars

Mayhems XT-1 is glycol based which only needs a 5% mix, I would rather use that than automotive antifreeze.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Last I was told that you're not supposed to use automotive anti-freeze/coolant. I know Dex-cool would definitely be a no go, but I know there are specialty coolants that would probably work but would have to be highly diluted compared to the 50/50 mix used in cars/trucks.


----------



## kpoeticg

I only said I've heard about it people doing it.

Actually I think it might've been either in here or the Mayhem's thread recently. Some1 had antifreeze in their loop. I commented that he was using Green Coolant, and he said it's actually DI with antifreeze, and his camera flash made it look like green coolant. I think it was here a few days ago. I'm not vouching for it in anyway. And i don't know the benefits and risks of it. It was a real tight build tho


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Did you say a 120mm rad is enough for CPU + GPU or am I mistaken?


I think he meant that 240 is OK, possibly add 120. I have 3x240 for GPU + CPU


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Did you say a 120mm rad is enough for CPU + GPU or am I mistaken?


The general rule of thumb is 120mm of radiator space per block plus an extra 120mm. Ideally, your setup should have a total of 360mm of radiator space, however you can probably get by on a 240mm radiator just fine.


----------



## VSG

I think you meant to say that to the guy actually asking about rad sizes. I got 2x480mm rads for overkill here


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> mmmm that watercooled prodigy...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> not technically "green coolant" it just goes opaque in camera shots, its distilled water in a 90/10 mix with antifreeze
> 
> been doing it this way for a very long time, coolant rotation is once every year and a half, with no block gumming.
> its plasticizer free, ive used it in many builds for others with no plasticizer issues whatsoever


Lol I knew i saw something about it recently. It was a week ago. He used it with the Silver Tygon Antimicrobial Tubing


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think you meant to say that to the guy actually asking about rad sizes. I got 2x480mm rads for overkill here


No, I didn't. You asked if you were mistaken, so I answered the question. It does help the guy who asked the question though too.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> No, I didn't. You asked if you were mistaken, so I answered the question. It does help the guy who asked the question though too.


Oh you probably didn't get here in time to see who he was talking to and why. That other person said a 120mm rad would be just fine for the GPU and CPU. I quoted it and reacted about the same as geggeg did but the person then editted his/her mistake without commenting.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Well all I've researched is its better to use it than nothing. Especially how I've got an aluminum rad with a copper block. I used distilled water for about 9 months and I had wvlittle bit of algae growth on the copper block...


----------



## kpoeticg

Aluminum and Copper should absolutely NOT be used in the same loop. Algae isn't the only problem. That's also gonna cause corrosion. Using something like Mayhem's Pastel or something similar is supposed to help with corrosion. But Aluminum + Copper is a bad idea


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Well all I've researched is its better to use it than nothing. Especially how I've got an aluminum rad with a copper block. I used distilled water for about 9 months and I had wvlittle bit of algae growth on the copper block...


Most radiators have coated brass internals with aluminum fins, not aluminum internals. I can attest to what kpoeticg is saying: I ran an aluminum waterblock (the RAM block that Corsair produces) with my all copper loop. The block failed after 3 months and spilled fluid all over the RAM slots, ruining my Sabertooth 990FX.


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, that SUX. 3 months....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Most radiators have coated brass internals with aluminum fins, not aluminum internals. I can attest to what kpoeticg is saying: I ran an aluminum waterblock (the RAM block that Corsair produces) with my all copper loop. The block failed after 3 months and spilled fluid all over the RAM slots, ruining my Sabertooth 990FX.


Sad day


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Well just to let you know it's a modded aio cooler. Thermaltake water 2.0 performer. I've been running distilled water in it for a good 12+ months with no signs of corrosion whatsoever. Im 98% sure the stock dad is ALU.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Well just to let you know it's a modded aio cooler. Thermaltake water 2.0 performer. I've been running distilled water in it for a good 12+ months with no signs of corrosion whatsoever. Im 98% sure the stock dad is ALU.


But are you running it with other metals?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Well just to let you know it's a modded aio cooler. Thermaltake water 2.0 performer. I've been running distilled water in it for a good 12+ months with no signs of corrosion whatsoever. Im 98% sure the stock dad is ALU.


Yeah it's definitely Aluminum. Even ThermalTake Recommends using a Premix Coolant or Corrosion Inhibitor when mixing Aluminum and Copper.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> But are you running it with other metals?


The Thermaltake Water 2.0 kits come with a Copper Block and Aluminum Channel Rad. What were they thinking?

That link i just posted, they basically just comment that the kit gives you the option to use a premix or corrosion inhibitor + antimicrobial. And then they also say that they recommend using premix's or additives when mixing Aluminum and Copper to prevent corrosion and Algae growth......


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Alu and copper can be in the same loop as long as you dose the coolant with anti corrosive.
Not something I would recommend tho....


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Well if its good news for everyone, I'm working on beginning a bigger mod go fit 2 240rads on both of my aio coolers. They work quite well for a bigger rad too! I got a good 5c drop going from a 120mm stock rad to an rs240 rad. I just am beginning plans to mod my itx case for 2 240rads...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Oh this stuff isn't new. I've had it for a few years, never opened it, still sealed till now...
> I added about 4fl oz for 1 gal of distilled water 3% concentration.


Oh I mean new like year 2001 or so. Dexcool/zerex and the like. The h.o.a.t. and o.a.t.coolants.


----------



## Trolle BE

looks like nvidia dropped the price of the 780's massivly
time to go 780sli then


----------



## DevilGear44

Another potato pic of my baby.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> derick, any chance you can comment on whether you guys have already launched you're entire reference 290x block series? I'm about to order some WC + Modding supplies, and i kinda wanna make absolutely sure you guys aren't gonna be releasing a full acrylic top version before i order the one's you guys have listed right now. I read somebody's post that it's not possible because you need the metal plate for heat transfer. Is there a difference in the GPU's that you release full acrylic top versions for? Like the Titan?


All the EK cards with Stainless on the front have it there so the water can bridge over a row of caps, to actively cool the VRM section.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc7970.html


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-290x-acetal-nickel.html


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-acetal-nickel.html


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-jetstream-nickel.html


The steel plate forms the cover for a bridge to get the water flow over to the VRM copper section and back again


The cards without a steel piece and a full clear cover have a PCB design without a barrier row of caps like the others do.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-6x0-series/ek-fc680-gtx-plus.html


As Lowfat said, the other companys have something similar except some, like Aquacomputer, its just the little piece in the bottom corner. It only takes water one way so water is not truly flowing over the VRM


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for further breaking that down for me. I fully understand the difference now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Oh I mean new like year 2001 or so. Dexcool/zerex and the like. The h.o.a.t. and o.a.t.coolants.


I wouldn't think Dex Cool would really be good in a loop, but not sure what VW/Audi use in their coolants that actually might work better in a highly diluted state w/ DI. But yes automotive coolant has a tendency to break down and corrode metals over time. Also if this could work in a loop I think I could go w/ it since I have plenty here at the shop, lol.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I hope that's not what you really meant Oo.


Take a look here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1347447/build-log-lori-lemaris-watercooled-ft03-mini


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, there is Hawaii inside


----------



## VSG

Way to make me rethink the blocks I just bought! These are beautiful, when are they coming out?


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there is Hawaii inside


now that is cool. too bad most setups don't allow a waterblock like that to be really exposed , because that is one of the sexiest waterblocks ever made


----------



## Shoggy

I can not promise it, but we think the first blocks will be ready for shipping by Friday.

By the way: a few more photos can be found here.


----------



## VSG

Wow that's sooner than I expected, too late for me but I think you should post this in the 290/290X owner's thread.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there is Hawaii inside


That is one cool block







makes me whant to upgrade so bad


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there is Hawaii inside


This was going to be my next question









Some nice looking block there.....want!


----------



## nismoskyline

All finished







any criticism or feedback is welcome


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there is Hawaii inside


When are you going to make backplates that are as good looking as the blocks??

Is that a relief map of Hawaii i see there to the left of the vrm flow plate?

This is why i pimp AC gear at every opportunity.....


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When are you going to make backplates that are as good looking as the blocks??
> 
> Is that a relief map of Hawaii i see there to the left of the vrm flow plate?
> 
> This is why i pimp AC gear at every opportunity.....


A backplate (passive and active) should be available in about two weeks. As already mentioned before: yes, this is Hawaii


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A backplate (passive and active) should be available in about two weeks. As already mentioned before: yes, this is Hawaii


watched the video of you gusy crafting a 480 block, you guys plan on doing any updated videos for say 290x/titans? i would love to see more


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When are you going to make backplates that are as good looking as the blocks??
> 
> Is that a relief map of Hawaii i see there to the left of the vrm flow plate?
> 
> This is why i pimp AC gear at every opportunity.....
> 
> 
> 
> A backplate (passive and active) should be available in about two weeks. As already mentioned before: yes, this is Hawaii
Click to expand...

I dint read a thing,i was too busy gawking at the pron.


----------



## natsu2014

Can somebody tell me what shoud I use to mount a d5 onto 120mm fan?
I found this
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-pump-mount-universal-for-120-140mm-fansradiators_30229.html
but not sure if mounting holes will match with this one http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-Pump-Base-for-Laing-D5Alphacool-655644_3952.html


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Did you say a 120mm rad is enough for CPU + GPU or am I mistaken?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I hope that's not what you really meant Oo.


Not what I meant at all, 240 rad is what I meant. Sorry, I was tired


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there is Hawaii inside


WOW that is incredible. that is creativity utilizing it's resources at its finest. i may just have to switch with a copper color theme, unless there will be nickel versions..


----------



## doctakedooty

Just finished my first custom loop ever its dual loopsbut one loop is not done because waiting on 2 more 780 classifieds I have 2 480mm rad and 2 240mm rad used primochill acrylic tubing all ek products aka blocks res and radiators and mayhems auroura thrasil red coolant if you notice anythixng I can do better please let me know the wiring I still got to clean up as I just finished leak testing booting etc


----------



## rationalthinking

Upgraded the rig about 1 mouth ago from a 3770K to 4930K, AquaComputer RADs and acrylic tubing. More pics in OCN gallery.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Just finished my first custom loop ever its dual loopsbut one loop is not done because waiting on 2 more 780 classifieds I have 2 480mm rad and 2 240mm rad used primochill acrylic tubing all ek products aka blocks res and radiators and mayhems auroura thrasil red coolant if you notice anythixng I can do better please let me know the wiring I still got to clean up as I just finished leak testing booting etc
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks pretty awesome man. my suggestion is to simplify it a bit; cut it down to 1 loop, not 2.

annnd here's my 800D haha


----------



## freitz

That is a interesting way to mount a raid in a 800d


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Can somebody tell me what shoud I use to mount a d5 onto 120mm fan?
> I found this
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-pump-mount-universal-for-120-140mm-fansradiators_30229.html
> but not sure if mounting holes will match with this one http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-Pump-Base-for-Laing-D5Alphacool-655644_3952.html


Check these out: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_439_767&zenid=890064c702cc2af89b0d1dcd83e117f2


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Upgraded the rig about 1 mouth ago from a 3770K to 4930K, AquaComputer RADs and acrylic tubing. More pics in OCN gallery.


just beautiful, great work


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> That is a interesting way to mount a raid in a 800d


it's far from complete so don't worry. just a mock up as of right now.

ordering a monsta 480mm radiator soon as well.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there is Hawaii inside


omgah that would match my city (kind of) XD my city is the "9th" island of hawaii :3 i wanna try these blocks T_T Q_Q they looks so pretty ! like the acrylic glass top for the 680/780 T_T copper or nickle plated T_T *drools*

i have these blocks for the "win a ultimate dream rig" T_T definitely a dream block T_T so prettttttyyyyyyyyyy XD *drools some more*


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there is Hawaii inside


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I can not promise it, but we think the first blocks will be ready for shipping by Friday.
> 
> By the way: a few more photos can be found here.


Shoggy, you just made my day!!!! That's absolutely beautiful. And the best part is, I'm already running all copper. A cpl of those will go very nice with my Aquaero 6 Pro


----------



## jonnL

Shoggy, will this come in Nickel?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Progress!


----------



## lowfat

I generally don't like acrylic w/ a ton of fittings everywhere. But you did it in a way where they are all parallel lines. Much better looking than straight lines going from block to block. Good job.









I also hope you plan on doing a good job on the sleeving and not using extensions.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnL*
> 
> Shoggy, will this come in Nickel?


Yes, about 1 to 2 weeks later. Same for the passive and active backplate.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jonnL*
> 
> Shoggy, will this come in Nickel?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, about 1 to 2 weeks later. Same for the passive and active backplate.
Click to expand...

I have seen a few Active B-plates leaking,has this been resolved?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have seen a few Active B-plates leaking,has this been resolved?


This has been solved and the "few" must be really some exceptions. I know that we exchanged only four of them.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Upgraded the rig about 1 mouth ago from a 3770K to 4930K, AquaComputer RADs and acrylic tubing. More pics in OCN gallery.


Nice, I like it!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> annnd here's my 800D haha


I am intrigued...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Upgraded the rig about 1 mouth ago from a 3770K to 4930K, AquaComputer RADs and acrylic tubing. More pics in OCN gallery.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As I said in the setup thread, very nice.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Just finished my first custom loop ever its dual loopsbut one loop is not done because waiting on 2 more 780 classifieds I have 2 480mm rad and 2 240mm rad used primochill acrylic tubing all ek products aka blocks res and radiators and mayhems auroura thrasil red coolant if you notice anythixng I can do better please let me know the wiring I still got to clean up as I just finished leak testing booting etc
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks pretty awesome man. my suggestion is to simplify it a bit; cut it down to 1 loop, not 2.
> 
> annnd here's my 800D haha
Click to expand...

Looks like a chop shop got a hold of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> That is a interesting way to mount a raid in a 800d


This.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> Do the research.... I want to say I found out that they have corrosive chemicals in there that don't play well with copper and or multi-metal like setups. I can't find it online, but this did point out that it doesn't say JACK about how it does with particular metals just plastics and seals it seems
> 
> http://www.tylerindustries.com/B2B/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=80
> 
> And all it says is that it "flushes" your system of foreign debris and material left over from the manufacture process.... Hell no I wouldn't/DID NOT use it in my setup......


Thanks, I've been searching for info for a while now about this Sysprep stuff. It was included with my tubing as well and I've been unsure whether to use it or not. Might as well avoid it to be safe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I only said *I've heard about it people doing it.*
> 
> Actually I think it might've been either in here or the Mayhem's thread recently. Some1 had antifreeze in their loop. I commented that he was using Green Coolant, and he said it's actually DI with antifreeze, and his camera flash made it look like green coolant. I think it was here a few days ago. I'm not vouching for it in anyway. And i don't know the benefits and risks of it. It was a real tight build tho


I can't say 100% about anti-freeze, but I know PCSarge created a thread on alternative biocide.

http://www.overclock.net/t/866611/is-this-what-you-bunch-call-biocide


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey how do you guys fill your systems, do you use the Phobya Flexible Thread Funnel or something else?


----------



## PCModderMike

Barb
12 inch piece of tubing
And


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Barb
> 12 inch piece of tubing
> And










Nice and Im guessing it works pretty well?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Barb
> 12 inch piece of tubing
> And
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and Im guessing it works pretty well?
Click to expand...









For the builds I've done, works just fine.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hey how do you guys fill your systems, do you use the Phobya Flexible Thread Funnel or something else?


This is what I use-Turkey Baster



I just pull the bulb off it to do a full fill, then I can put the bulb back on and add just what I need.
Oh and it was free-just took it out of the drawer-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the builds I've done, works just fine.


Nice, seems simple and easy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> This is what I use-Turkey Baster
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just pull the bulb off it to do a full fill, then I can put the bulb back on and add just what I need.
> Oh and it was free-just took it out of the drawer-lol
> 
> -dimwit-


HAHA my mum keeps suggesting that to me for some reason
















Thanks guys, I'll have to play around and see whats easier, SM5 gets a bit tight with one of these on the floor

Edit, just wanna make sure this is right, my res a Bitspower Dual/Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 and the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Extreme Acetal this is the correct top yes? I ordered all my watercooling stuff but forgot the damn top







just making 100% sure its right


----------



## fatfree

I see a lot of loops here build counter clockwise, pushing water against gravity. It can really simplify routing, but whats losses one can expect going that way?

So if it is unclear what I am talking about, lets take 900D-like case with rads top and bottom rads and majority of waterblocks in between. Res -> pump-> bottom rad(s) -> videocard(s) -> CPU -> top rad -> res.
Also what could be the impact putting tree videocards in parallel before CPU and visa versa.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatfree*
> 
> I see a lot of loops here build counter clockwise, pushing water against gravity. It can really simplify routing, but whats losses one can expect going that way?
> 
> So if it is unclear what I am talking about, lets take 900D-like case with rads top and bottom rads and majority of waterblocks in between. Res -> pump-> bottom rad(s) -> videocard(s) -> CPU -> top rad -> res.
> Also what could be the impact putting tree videocards in parallel before CPU and visa versa.


You would lose pretty much nothing. The coolant is circulating too fast inside your loop.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn that is clean... Great work.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatfree*
> 
> I see a lot of loops here build counter clockwise, pushing water against gravity. It can really simplify routing, but whats losses one can expect going that way?
> 
> So if it is unclear what I am talking about, lets take 900D-like case with rads top and bottom rads and majority of waterblocks in between. Res -> pump-> bottom rad(s) -> videocard(s) -> CPU -> top rad -> res.
> Also what could be the impact putting tree videocards in parallel before CPU and visa versa.


Testing has shown that loop order really doesn't matter, at least from a cooling performance standpoint.

Like Kinaesthetic has mentioned, due to the power / flow rate of modern pumps, gravity has little effect on performance.

Just follow the golden rule of having a reservoir before your pump so your loop never runs dry.

That being said, how you set up your loop will have an effect on how easy it is to drain and bleed air out of your loop--but you'll have to ask one of these experienced fellows for more info on that.


----------



## lowfat

Gravity has no affect at all on a closer loop.


----------



## dimwit13

I hear people mention-Keep the res in front of the pump!

Its a loop, so isn't the res always in front of the pump-OR always behind it?
I am just JKing-I know what people mean.
It still really doesn't make sense?!?!?!
It wouldn't matter in a closed loop, unless you have air in the line, which isn't a good thing.
...or a leak, which is worse.
I say, just keep it topped off and you wont have a problem.
What about an AIO, or the people that are running a custom closed loop without a res?

Just my cent and a half...

-dimwit-


----------



## lowfat

The only reason a reservoir is mounted before and above the pump is to make bleeding easier. It doesn't matter if you put the reservoir somewhere else if you don't care if it is a nightmare to bleed.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Barb
> 12 inch piece of tubing
> And


Cannot go wrong with this method....quick, easy, cheap


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> if you don't care if it is a nightmare to bleed.


I just find the lowest tube/hose and cut it=easy peasy.
I do things differently-I also pump out the water-Yes, I have run my pumps dry before.
I also pump in the water.
I have done this for all my WC builds.
I put in as much water as I can and blow in it, to push the water as far into the loop as I can.
When I cant blow it any more, I turn on my system-Yup, turn on the whole system-no leak testing, I am confident in my work. (this will come back and haunt me-lol)
...and when the water starts flowing to the point I can add more-I just shut off the PSU-this usually takes 3-4 times.
YEA BABY!!!-shock the system

Differently indeed!!!

-dimwit-


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> I hear people mention-Keep the res in front of the pump!
> 
> Its a loop, so isn't the res always in front of the pump-OR always behind it?
> I am just JKing-I know what people mean.
> It still really doesn't make sense?!?!?!
> It wouldn't matter in a closed loop, unless you have air in the line, which isn't a good thing.
> ...or a leak, which is worse.
> I say, just keep it topped off and you wont have a problem.
> What about an AIO, or the people that are running a custom closed loop without a res?
> 
> Just my cent and a half...
> 
> -dimwit-


If the loop already up & running, then of course it wouldn't matter whether the res is behind or in front of the pump. But how about new loop & you're about to fill the coolant in the loop? If the res is in front of the pump, the pump will run dry before the coolant circulated through the loop & this is bad for the pump. The idea is to make sure the pump already filled with coolant before you power it up. This is why the rule of thumb is to have res before pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> I just find the lowest tube/hose and cut it=easy peasy.
> I do things differently-I also pump out the water-Yes, I have run my pumps dry before.
> I also pump in the water.
> I have done this for all my WC builds.
> I put in as much water as I can and blow in it, to push the water as far into the loop as I can.
> When I cant blow it any more, I turn on my system-Yup, turn on the whole system-no leak testing, I am confident in my work. (this will come back and haunt me-lol)
> ...and when the water starts flowing to the point I can add more-I just shut off the PSU-this usually takes 3-4 times.
> YEA BABY!!!-shock the system
> 
> Differently indeed!!!
> 
> -dimwit-


How long you have use your pump? I asked because AFAIK a pump that have run dry even for a moment, sooner or later die.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have seen a few Active B-plates leaking,has this been resolved?


No issues with my active plate. Where is it even leaking? At the actual connections?


----------



## SeriousBlack

Well I've just made my first PC with rigid tubing inside. Need to leak test it and put all of the other items in, but I'm quite please with how it's coming along.

Wish I'd never bought the EK gpu terminal though, what a complete pain that was to fit!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I generally don't like acrylic w/ a ton of fittings everywhere. But you did it in a way where they are all parallel lines. Much better looking than straight lines going from block to block. Good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also hope you plan on doing a good job on the sleeving and not using extensions.


Thanks! ...and no extensions, custom sleeved AX1200 modular cables










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have seen a few Active B-plates leaking,has this been resolved?
> 
> 
> 
> This has been solved and the "few" must be really some exceptions. I know that we exchanged only four of them.
Click to expand...

I have not seen more than that myself...did you replace the blown cards? I know at least one guy that lost a Titan because of that issue....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have seen a few Active B-plates leaking,has this been resolved?
> 
> 
> 
> No issues with my active plate. Where is it even leaking? At the actual connections?
Click to expand...

From the connection at the port block to the active plate.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> I am intrigued...


Me too lol will have final loop layout completed soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks like a chop shop got a hold of it.


Seeing as chopping happens a lot in the Volkswagen car scene I'm part of, I take that as a compliment!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Some new om nom....


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Some new om nom....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Why is there a warning here again?


I spy with my little cortical implant:

E22 in the background!!

But to the radiators; Those are for Impact?!

Thanks - T


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Some new om nom....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Why is there a warning here again?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spy with my little cortical implant:
> 
> E22 in the background!!
> 
> *But to the radiators; Those are for Impact?!*
> 
> Thanks - T
Click to expand...

Yup.

Should be a nice LAN rig when im done.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If the loop already up & running, then of course it wouldn't matter whether the res is behind or in front of the pump. But how about new loop & you're about to fill the coolant in the loop? If the res is in front of the pump, the pump will run dry before the coolant circulated through the loop & this is bad for the pump. The idea is to make sure the pump already filled with coolant before you power it up. This is why the rule of thumb is to have res before pump.
> How long you have use your pump? I asked because AFAIK a pump that have *run dry* even for a moment, sooner or later die.


Running it for 3 seconds and running it DRY are 2 different things.
I have never let any of my pumps run dry.

As for the life of the pumps.
I have 2 running 24/7 for over a year.
1 that has been running 24/7 for over 2 years. (sold it to a friend)
1 I sold a year ago, after running for a year-I haven't heard anything form the guy who bought it, and I gave him a year warranty.
and 1 sitting in my closet.
I plan on doing the same with the 655 I have now.

-dimwit-

Everything dies....EVERYTHING!!!

(except that light bulb that is on it that firehouse-been on for over 100 years.)....and Keith Richards-lol


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Running it for 3 seconds and running it DRY are 2 different things.
> I have never let any of my pumps run dry.
> 
> As for the life of the pumps.
> I have 2 running 24/7 for over a year.
> 1 that has been running 24/7 for over 2 years. (sold it to a friend)
> 1 I sold a year ago, after running for a year-I haven't heard anything form the guy who bought it, and I gave him a year warranty.
> and 1 sitting in my closet.
> I plan on doing the same with the 655 I have now.
> 
> -dimwit-
> 
> Everything dies....EVERYTHING!!!
> 
> (except that light bulb that is on it that firehouse-been on for over 100 years.)....and Keith Richards-lol


dimwit, the quote in your sig links to a post by Jagged_Steel, but in it he says nothing like what you typed there.

What gives? The post hasn't even been edited.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> dimwit, the quote in your sig links to a post by Jagged_Steel, but in it he says nothing like what you typed there.
> 
> *What gives?* The post hasn't even been edited.


Never noticed it was linked to some post.
He said it somewhere-I have had it for a while now, looking to replace it as soon as I find a better one.
If you want, I can PM him and see if he remembers where he posted it?

-dimwit-

More than likely, it got deleted in a post sweep.
Yup, it sure did-here ya go.



Sorry I didn't realize there was a Quote Police on this forum....
Or are you just one of the ~98%


----------



## Devastater6194

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup.
> 
> Should be a nice LAN rig when im done.


Nice!
What LAN's do you go to?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devastater6194*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup.
> 
> Should be a nice LAN rig when im done.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice!
> What LAN's do you go to?
Click to expand...

iSeries and wherever there are sad,lonely,low self esteem WoW women....


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> iSeries and wherever there are sad,lonely,low self esteem WoW women....


+rep to the man


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> iSeries and wherever there are sad,lonely,low self esteem WoW women....


/facepalm


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> iSeries and wherever there are sad,lonely,low self esteem WoW women....


+rep made my day


----------



## doctakedooty

I know on my loop I was going to use a cheap drain port but frozencpu called me said they couldn't find any asked if I was looking at another told them the bitspower mini valve they didn't charge me the $15 difference I know a lot say they have a problem with them I never have but I am thankful I did put one in made my life already easier since I flushed the mayhems aura out is the mayhems pastel good about not staining the acrylic I noticed the aurua in a 3 days already was trying to start staining so I spent 3 hours and 4 gallons of water flushing and cleaning


----------



## kpoeticg

I used to have a problem with their customer service until i finally realized that it's really just their email support that sucks. If you give em a call their customer service is a much better experience.


----------



## VSG

Usually that's the case with all small companies, you end up talking to the owners more often than not who know that customer service is what retains customers.


----------



## doctakedooty

I usually get bucky or richard and both of them are very helpful and curtious no matter what stupid question I have and always talk to me till I fully understand and make sure I always get everything I need on the first order


----------



## kpoeticg

On the other hand, Performance-PCs has one of the best email support of any company i've dealt with. And i've heard many people complain about the people they talk to on the phone. I've never had a reason to call them because their email support is so good.


----------



## VSG

Depends on who ends up replying to your email, the tech guys are real nice and the actual customer reps can sometimes be lacking ironically.


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Some new om nom....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
Click to expand...

I love AquaComputer MOD RADs. Will defiantly put in all my rigs unless SFF.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, wish i had room for one of their "AMS" rads in my system. I've been curious about the new Feser Admiral AMS rads too. I love that they have accessory kits to change the sides and/or the top and bottom to Red or Blue. How short they are is huge benefit to people working with limited space. The 360 is only 375mm long (but like 75mm thick). Haven't heard any Performance Reviews of them yet though. Just reviews commenting that the build quality is great....


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, wish i had room for one of their "AMS" rads in my system. I've been curious about the new Feser Admiral AMS rads too. I love that they have accessory kits to change the sides and/or the top and bottom to Red or Blue. How short they are is huge benefit to people working with limited space. The 360 is only 375mm long (but like 75mm thick). Haven't heard any Performance Reviews of them yet though. Just reviews commenting that the build quality is great....


Yeah the AMS rads are huge and not ideal for most cases. Even in my 900D I hade multiple issues fitting 3 of them in there.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, wish i had room for one of their "AMS" rads in my system. I've been curious about the new Feser Admiral AMS rads too. I love that they have accessory kits to change the sides and/or the top and bottom to Red or Blue. How short they are is huge benefit to people working with limited space. The 360 is only 375mm long (but like 75mm thick). Haven't heard any Performance Reviews of them yet though. Just reviews commenting that the build quality is great....


My alphacool 80mm almost didn't fit on my 900D. I figure 75mm will be just as hard to fit inside, but it is possible to fit without any mods.


----------



## VSG

The alphacool 80mm with fans in push configuration barely made it at the bottom of my 900D so I am shocked there are rads which can be tougher to fit in.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The alphacool 80mm with fans in push configuration barely made it at the bottom of my 900D so I am shocked there are rads which can be tougher to fit in.


The issue with the AMS rads isn't the thickness but the length and width, they are sized for 140mm fans regardless of getting the 120mm or 140mm version, add to that the extended cap on one end and they are huge. the 360 and 240 are fine, but I'm talking mainly about the 480 version - I had issue with both the top and bottom wih the 480, especially the top, I literally had to mount it offset and drill 4 new mounting holes. The main issue in the bottom is the weight, I have to make some kind of peice to help absorb they weight so it will stay straight without bending the upper bracket where the window panel mounts. HOWEVER it's 100% worth it because they are stunning!



Also note how I had to orient the rad with the large end cap towards the back of the case because the other way makes it so the front rad or fans wont fit at all. Created a logistical nightmare for the lower loop routing. Again though, it's worth it because the look is stellar.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Never noticed it was linked to some post.
> He said it somewhere-I have had it for a while now, looking to replace it as soon as I find a better one.
> If you want, I can PM him and see if he remembers where he posted it?
> 
> -dimwit-
> 
> More than likely, it got deleted in a post sweep.
> Yup, it sure did-here ya go.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I didn't realize there was a Quote Police on this forum....
> Or are you just one of the ~98%


If you feel the need to call me a Mountain Dew drinking, Cheeto fingered gamer kid to boost your self-esteem, that's fine









I was just more curious than anything, and found it to be a rather odd quote to have sigged; mostly because I don't know why someone who believed that would stick around.

Glad to see you don't get defensive and jump to conclusions.

Cheers!









Back on topic, anyone's thoughts on Daz Mode Protector? I'm thinking about running it with DI in my loop.

Seems to have a good rep from what I've seen.


----------



## VSG

I had the exact same issue with orientation with the monsta 480, it took some expensive bitspower rotary and adapter fittings to get the loop design back in decent shape.


----------



## _REAPER_

It was a bit of a paint to fit a monsta rad on the top of my 900D


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> On the other hand, Performance-PCs has one of the best email support of any company i've dealt with. And i've heard many people complain about the people they talk to on the phone. I've never had a reason to call them because their email support is so good.


I recommend everyone ordering from Performance-PCs. They are fast, have the best prices, and great support. I've had nothing but awesome experiences dealing with them.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> The issue with the AMS rads isn't the thickness but the length and width, they are sized for 140mm fans regardless of getting the 120mm or 140mm version, add to that the extended cap on one end and they are huge. the 360 and 240 are fine, but I'm talking mainly about the 480 version


That's why I'm interested in the new Feser Admirals. Just wish i could find an actual performance review or comparison. They don't make a 480 yet though. They just finally released the 240 like a week ago. Just for scale though here's dimensions of both 360's
Admiral - 377 x 135 x 75mm
AC AMS - 407mm x 146mm x 63mm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I recommend everyone ordering from Performance-PCs. They are fast, have the best prices, and great support. I've had nothing but awesome experiences dealing with them.


Yeah the same exact thing here. They always reply to emails right away and are extremely helpful and friendly, whether i need to send something back for a refund because i didn't end up needing it or I just placed an order an hour ago and forgot to put the OCN discount code in.
I've seen alot of people say bad things about their customer service. I guess it depends on the situation.......


----------



## wermad

BNeg says TFC Admirals are poo...I trust this man and his dog









TFC seems to be very....how can i say this....lagging. Not sure but they're looking like they may go like MIPS and DD. Its been a few years since the Admirals were announced and its slowly making its way.

I'm guessing with all this AC and Admiral talk, Monstas have been played out enough to warrant them uncool?


----------



## Juthos

Bitspower's air exhaust fitting :


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Bitspower's air exhaust fitting :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All I have to say about this...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> BNeg says TFC Admirals are poo...I trust this man and his dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TFC seems to be very....how can i say this....lagging. Not sure but they're looking like they may go like MIPS and DD. Its been a few years since the Admirals were announced and its slowly making its way.
> 
> I'm guessing with all this AC and Admiral talk, Monstas have been played out enough to warrant them uncool?


Bundy and glider say they are poo,L3p reckons different.

Bundy was involved with the prototype testing,L3p wasn't.....

Namron has one,I might blag it for some testing myself....


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Bitspower's air exhaust fitting :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm new to watercool area, so these fitting is to help drain your loop? Balance pressure in your loop?


----------



## rationalthinking

Why does Bispower feel the need to put those cheesy dragons all over everything? They make great products but damn, the size and amount of those dragons need to go.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Bitspower's air exhaust fitting :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm new to watercool area, so these fitting is to help drain your loop? Balance pressure in your loop?
Click to expand...

Pressure equalization membrane,screw in to the res top and air pressure in the loop stays atmospheric.
Aquacomputer have had them a long time now,I used one on my SR2.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Why does Bispower feel the need to put those cheesy dragons all over everything? They make great products but damn, the size and amount of those dragons need to go.


I like em







and don't feel their poorly done to call them "cheesy" imho. To each their own


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Why does Bispower feel the need to put those cheesy dragons all over everything? They make great products but damn, the size and amount of those dragons need to go.


I like em







and don't feel their poorly done to call them "cheesy" imho. To each their own


----------



## bundymania

*Video Review :*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4PIicv_Cyw&feature=c4-overview&list=UUp7P0BCCtqlkmMcJFNddHeQ


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I recommend everyone ordering from Performance-PCs. They are fast, have the best prices, and great support. I've had nothing but awesome experiences dealing with them.


I like them too, their email customer support is really good, but they don't stock everything







I had to order my Suplrmecy Elite block through Frozen CPU and to save on shiping I had to order other stuff from them as well. But They also carry stuff not founf on Frozen CPU.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> BNeg says TFC Admirals are poo...I trust this man and his dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TFC seems to be very....how can i say this....lagging. Not sure but they're looking like they may go like MIPS and DD. Its been a few years since the Admirals were announced and its slowly making its way.
> 
> I'm guessing with all this AC and Admiral talk, Monstas have been played out enough to warrant them uncool?


Lol, the only reason the Admiral's particularly interesting to me is because the 360's only 375mm long, so it's an option to mod into the front of my HAF XB. I'm just gonna order an EX360 for that spot though. There's only a few rads short enough to mod into it without interfering with the front panel clips.

Thanx for the info about the Admiral tho. You too B-Neg









Damn that Alphacool Lightwave looks tight. Wish i could fit a vertical res in my rig. I think I'd have to grab that if i could....


----------



## bundymania

The Admiral is a piece of good looking expensive metal, ´nuff said ! I shared a link from a user review from GliderHR -> i was banned on Dazmodes Facebook Page (He also runs Feser US Shop) and the review was immediatly deleted at highflow.nl forum for no reason. There is only ONE real review existent. All others are just nice product shows to make the business going.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, i guess that's why i can't find any actual performance reviews. Thanx, I'm definitely not interested in it anymore then


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pressure equalization membrane,screw in to the res top and air pressure in the loop stays atmospheric.
> Aquacomputer have had them a long time now,I used one on my SR2.


Are they available online or not released yet ?


----------



## fatfree

Here is Admiral review: http://pccooling.ru/content.php?347-TFC-Admiral
It is on russian, but you can figure out everything through charts or use g-translate.

Also check this stunt as well: http://www.overclock.net/t/1436226/watch-out-for-koolance-radiators/


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Why does Bispower feel the need to put those cheesy dragons all over everything? They make great products but damn, the size and amount of those dragons need to go.


Agreed. I try to avoid using their fittings because of their nasty logos all over the place. Especially the gross gold on black.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Bitspower's air exhaust fitting :


Nothing shows up in google or any where else for these.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> BNeg says TFC Admirals are poo...I trust this man and his dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TFC seems to be very....how can i say this....lagging. Not sure but they're looking like they may go like MIPS and DD. Its been a few years since the Admirals were announced and its slowly making its way.
> 
> I'm guessing with all this AC and Admiral talk, Monstas have been played out enough to warrant them uncool?


I was excited to grab a MIPS block for a future Asus Maximus Extreme V but ended up grabbing the Gigabyte Z77X UP7, and XSPC's block is okay looking. Oh well.

And Monstas better be cool still! Lol I plan on buying a 480mm next week!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pressure equalization membrane,screw in to the res top and air pressure in the loop stays atmospheric.
> Aquacomputer have had them a long time now,I used one on my SR2.
> 
> 
> 
> Are they available online or not released yet ?
Click to expand...

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Aquacomputer-14-Thread-Pressure-Equalization-Membrane--53137-pid-16578.html


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Nothing shows up in google or any where else for these.


In the next few days they will show up on their website, fb page. Us/ue retailers i don't know.


----------



## freitz

They look pointless to me


----------



## RickRockerr

Well this is weird... I have ddc 3.25 18w pump without PWM. After I plugged it to Chassis fan_1 header (Sabertooth z77) Motherboard allows me to change RPM of the pump







I have RPM wire in one header and power wires in other.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Well this is weird... I have ddc 3.25 18w pump without PWM. After I plugged it to Chassis fan_1 header (Sabertooth z77) Motherboard allows me to change RPM of the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have RPM wire in one header and power wires in other.


That isn't possible. You sure the pump is actually decreasing in speed?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> They look pointless to me


It depends on how well you bled your loop, for me ensuring atmospheric pressure was worth the $8 or so for that aquacomputer one.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That isn't possible. You sure the pump is actually decreasing in speed?


Video is coming ASAP!


----------



## RickRockerr

Here is video of Laing ddc 3.25 18w pump speed changing. I really don't know what I did







But It's working like a charm







I would appreciate if someone with the same pump try this.
RPM wire is right next to power button pins and power wires are above 24pin power.


----------



## SeeThruHead

If you are plugging the pumps power wires into the mobo header it will control it with voltage control. Like it would any 3pin fan.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> If you are plugging the pumps power wires into the mobo header it will control it with voltage control. Like it would any 3pin fan.


I couldn't control it before.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Well this is weird... I have ddc 3.25 18w pump without PWM. After I plugged it to Chassis fan_1 header (Sabertooth z77) Motherboard allows me to change RPM of the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have RPM wire in one header and power wires in other.


What? How does the PWM wire connect? Can you describe the pin out a little more? If you are using a non-PWM pump, how are you wiring it to PWM....are you sure your MB isn't just using voltage regulation on that output?


----------



## SeeThruHead

How did you have it setup before.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Here is video of Laing ddc 3.25 18w pump speed changing. I really don't know what I did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But It's working like a charm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would appreciate if someone with the same pump try this.
> RPM wire is right next to power button pins and power wires are above 24pin power.


So you have the 12V and ground wires from the pump going to a molex and not connected to the motherboard? And there is no PWM cable on that specific pump? How low are you able to take the speed of the pump?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Here is video of Laing ddc 3.25 18w pump speed changing. I really don't know what I did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But It's working like a charm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would appreciate if someone with the same pump try this.
> RPM wire is right next to power button pins and power wires are above 24pin power.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you have the 12V and ground wires from the pump going to a molex and not connected to the motherboard? And there is no PWM cable on that specific pump? How low are you able to take the speed of the pump?
Click to expand...

I understood him to say that he has the power wires on one of the case fan headers, and the tach wire on another case fan header, in which case it could be controlling via variable analog voltage . . . Buy why one header controls off the input to another header is quite the mystery, unless they are linked in software.

Problem is that the probability that the mobo can run at 1.5 amps for very long is somewhere between slim and none, so as soon as the voltage regulator chip gets hot enough and shorts out, it'll stop be able to control the speed any more.

Darlene


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So you have the 12V and ground wires from the pump going to a molex and not connected to the motherboard? And there is no PWM cable on that specific pump? How low are you able to take the speed of the pump?


12V and ground are connected to 3pin fan header and rpm wire is connected to other 3pin header. I can drop the speed tp 1600RPM. Before the pump was connected with 3pin header (all wires in same header) And I have tried every 3pin slot on mobo because I had pump start issues.




Edit: And because I had pump start issues I connected pump to molex with rpm wire on mobo and because that didn't work I connected the pump again with 3pin header so thats why my pump is connected like that







And sorry for bad english .


----------



## lowfat

Running such a high wattage device off a motherboard fan header generally is frowned upon. That is a whole lot of power for a fan header to provide. Where is that heat going when you drop the voltage on a pump?


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I understood him to say that he has the power wires on one of the case fan headers, and the tach wire on another case fan header, in which case it could be controlling via variable analog voltage . . . Buy why one header controls off the input to another header is quite the mystery, unless they are linked in software.
> 
> Problem is that the probability that the mobo can run at 1.5 amps for very long is somewhere between slim and none, so as soon as the voltage regulator chip gets hot enough and shorts out, it'll stop be able to control the speed any more.
> 
> Darlene


If I get it right, Mobo cant run the pump very long because it's on fan header? Pump needs more amps than mobo can take? That pump came with 3pin header


----------



## yoi

about the TFC admiral series : i remember someone on this forum that had one ( years ago ) and it wasnt very good at all , i dont remember who it was , but was a long time ago , like 6-1 year ago . i do remember is that it was in this forum ...

and the russian review , yea , they say its not that great , that its just a "for show" product rather than performance ( look at the last graph )


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> If I get it right, Mobo cant run the pump very long because it's on fan header? Pump needs more amps than mobo can take? That pump came with 3pin header


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> If I get it right, Mobo cant run the pump very long because it's on fan header? Pump needs more amps than mobo can take? That pump came with 3pin header


Just because it comes with a 3-pin fan header doesn't mean you should connect it to the mobo fan header.

I'd move it off the mobo header asap and get it connected straight to the PSU. As IT Diva said, the mobo isn't intended to deliver that much current and you will probably burn out the poor regulator chip in relatively short order


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just because it comes with a 3-pin fan header doesn't mean you should connect it to the mobo fan header.
> 
> I'd move it off the mobo header asap and get it connected straight to the PSU. As IT Diva said, the mobo isn't intended to deliver that much current and you will probably burn out the poor regulator chip in relatively short order


I planned to connect the pump to controller (already on it's way) But still some question: if the chip burns do I lose all 3pin headers or just that where pump is connected to? If im running the pump @ 70% (8.4v) does that mean that it needs over 2 amps?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I planned to connect the pump to controller (already on it's way) But still some question: if the chip burns do I lose all 3pin headers or just that where pump is connected to? If im running the pump @ 70% (8.4v) does that mean that it needs over 2 amps?


It would depend on how many outputs the same chip has whether or not it'd burn out the 1 output or multiple.

Most fans draw less than 0.1A (AP-15 are like 0.085 and Noiseblockers are like 0.08 for reference)


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Connecting a 4 pin to a 3 pin header would not be a good idea. This is due to the fact that most of them actually use voltage regulation to control the speed of the devices connected to them. You’ll need to find a fan controller that specifies that it uses PWM without any kind of voltage modulation. A PWM controlled device that is being controlled via voltage regulation won’t last long and will probably create some clicking noises as well.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Connecting a 4 pin to a 3 pin header would not be a good idea. This is due to the fact that most of them actually use voltage regulation to control the speed of the devices connected to them. You'll need to find a fan controller that specifies that it uses PWM without any kind of voltage modulation. A PWM controlled device that is being controlled via voltage regulation won't last long and will probably create some clicking noises as well.


I can verify this. We've seen this happen with our PWM controlled pumps when they're used with voltage regulation. They start to make clicking noises and they die much quicker than if they were used with a proper PWM controller or motherboard header. For this reason we recommend connecting them directly to the CPU fan header on your motherboard because those are the ones that are guaranteed to actually offer PWM control. Most of the other headers on your motherboard only offer voltage regulation. This is even if they have four pins on the header. The only PWM fan controller out there right now that offers true PWM control is the Aquaero.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Connecting a 4 pin to a 3 pin header would not be a good idea. This is due to the fact that most of them actually use voltage regulation to control the speed of the devices connected to them. You'll need to find a fan controller that specifies that it uses PWM without any kind of voltage modulation. A PWM controlled device that is being controlled via voltage regulation won't last long and will probably create some clicking noises as well.


Be wary not to confuse the issue . . . .

There is no 4 pin, PWM device in use here. . . . It is Not a 35X, it's just a vanilla 18W DDC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Connecting a 4 pin to a 3 pin header would not be a good idea. This is due to the fact that most of them actually use voltage regulation to control the speed of the devices connected to them. You'll need to find a fan controller that specifies that it uses PWM without any kind of voltage modulation. A PWM controlled device that is being controlled via voltage regulation won't last long and will probably create some clicking noises as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I can verify this. We've seen this happen with our PWM controlled pumps when they're used with voltage regulation. They start to make clicking noises and they die much quicker than if they were used with a proper PWM controller or motherboard header. For this reason we recommend connecting them directly to the CPU fan header on your motherboard because those are the ones that are guaranteed to actually offer PWM control. Most of the other headers on your motherboard only offer voltage regulation. This is even if they have four pins on the header. The only PWM fan controller out there right now that offers true PWM control is the Aquaero.
Click to expand...

This is good info, but could be confusing to the case at hand.

The DDC pump should ideally be on a fan controller channel with a 30W or greater rating to be sure it operates conservatively and has headroom for startup loading.

Darlene


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be wary not to confuse the issue . . . .
> 
> There is no 4 pin, PWM device in use here. . . . It is Not a 35X, it's just a vanilla 18W DDC.
> This is good info, but could be confusing to the case at hand.
> 
> The DDC pump should ideally be on a fan controller channel with a 30W or greater rating to be sure it operates conservatively and has headroom for startup loading.
> 
> Darlene


Very good point Darlene. Thank you for including that because I obviously forgot to mention it in my post. Being that this isn't a PWM pump the information that I gave really doesn't apply. For those that have a PWM controllable pump though, you might want to consider how you're going to power it.


----------



## VSG

So something like an MCP35X goes to Molex + CPU fan header, correct?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So something like an MCP35X goes to Molex + CPU fan header, correct?


Yes. The Molex gives it power and the fan header is for the RPM Feedback and PWM Signal


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there is Hawaii inside


Im so happy that i did not open my new nickel block from you guys as yet

-look out for it in the post

-mine does not have Hawaii in it

-manufacturers fault i fear.

Time for a RMA Shog


----------



## kpoeticg

They haven't even released that block yet =P

It's up on their site but it hasn't been released yet. And the Nickel version's coming out like 2 weeks after the copper version according to Shoggy. That's the 290x block


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> "]
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be wary not to confuse the issue . . . .
> 
> There is no 4 pin, PWM device in use here. . . . It is Not a 35X, it's just a vanilla 18W DDC.
> This is good info, but could be confusing to the case at hand.
> 
> The DDC pump should ideally be on a fan controller channel with a 30W or greater rating to be sure it operates conservatively and has headroom for startup loading.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very good point Darlene. Thank you for including that because I obviously forgot to mention it in my post. Being that this isn't a PWM pump the information that I gave really doesn't apply. *For those that have a PWM controllable pump though, you might want to consider how you're going to power it*.
Click to expand...

Funny you should mention that, . . . .

I recently upgraded the 3 channel PWM controller I made for the 3 pairs of D5's in my stretch build; it has up/down speed control buttons for each channel, remote control that can change speed on all chans together, as well as remote control for the gull wing side window up and down, and turn the system on and off.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

OK, So I finally got some vacation time and the insufferable heat of the summer has mostly passed, so it's back to work on the Stretched Limo phantom 820 build.

Thought you guys may like to see some progress . . . .

Darlene

Added some reinforcement to the back panels since they seemed a bit flimsy:



Here's the mirrored acrylic back panel installed:





Here's the pump/res setup fitted in place:







Once everything is fitted and the cable cutouts are done, I can pull it all apart again to dress the welds that aren't done yet and do the paint work.


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> OK, So I finally got some vacation time and the insufferable heat of the summer has mostly passed, so it's back to work on the Stretched Limo phantom 820 build.
> 
> Thought you guys may like to see some progress . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Added some reinforcement to the back panels since they seemed a bit flimsy:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the mirrored acrylic back panel installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the pump/res setup installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once everything is fitted and the cable cutouts are done, I can pull it all apart again to dress the welds that aren't done yet and do the paint work.


What exactly is the point of that v-neck in the middle?


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> What exactly is the point of that v-neck in the middle?


I haven't really been following her build.. but I'd take a guess that it's for this.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Funny you should mention that, . . . .
> 
> I recently upgraded the 3 channel PWM controller I made for the 3 pairs of D5's in my stretch build; it has up/down speed control buttons for each channel, remote control that can change speed on all chans together, as well as remote control for *the gull wing side window up and down*, and turn the system on and off.
> 
> Darlene


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> OK, So I finally got some vacation time and the insufferable heat of the summer has mostly passed, so it's back to work on the Stretched Limo phantom 820 build.
> 
> Thought you guys may like to see some progress . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Added some reinforcement to the back panels since they seemed a bit flimsy:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the mirrored acrylic back panel installed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the pump/res setup fitted in place:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once everything is fitted and the cable cutouts are done, I can pull it all apart again to dress the welds that aren't done yet and do the paint work.


And I thought I was cool for having a Case Labs case, this things awersome


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> OK, So I finally got some vacation time and the insufferable heat of the summer has mostly passed, so it's back to work on the Stretched Limo phantom 820 build.
> 
> Thought you guys may like to see some progress . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Added some reinforcement to the back panels since they seemed a bit flimsy:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the mirrored acrylic back panel installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the pump/res setup installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once everything is fitted and the cable cutouts are done, I can pull it all apart again to dress the welds that aren't done yet and do the paint work.
> 
> 
> 
> What exactly is the point of that v-neck in the middle?
Click to expand...

It's not a V, just the reflection makes it look that way,

It's the linear actuators for the gull wing side window:

Darlene

It's in HD, so the detail is pretty good in full screen mode.


----------



## Phishy714

DOH!

It looked like a V-shape cause of the reflection.. definitely wasn't paying too much attention there.

Completely over-the-top awesome!


----------



## Lourad

That is just too cool! Awesome work.


----------



## kpoeticg

Darlene, if i may call you that, I've said it before and i'll say it again
You are a GODDESS amongst us lowly watercoolers and modders.Truly Epic work. I've heard people ask about retractable window mods, but i've never seen one pulled off. Also that mirrored acrylic looks amazing.

Now i gotta read your build log to see how you did it


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> OK, So I finally got some vacation time and the insufferable heat of the summer has mostly passed, so it's back to work on the Stretched Limo phantom 820 build.
> 
> Thought you guys may like to see some progress . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Added some reinforcement to the back panels since they seemed a bit flimsy:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the mirrored acrylic back panel installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the pump/res setup fitted in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once everything is fitted and the cable cutouts are done, I can pull it all apart again to dress the welds that aren't done yet and do the paint work.


Are you trying to build a Central Watercool System? Like the house Central AC?


----------



## wermad

@ Darlene, insanely amazing!!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Darlene, if i may call you that, I've said it before and i'll say it again
> You are a GODDESS amongst us lowly watercoolers and modders.Truly Epic work. I've heard people ask about retractable window mods, but i've never seen one pulled off. Also that mirrored acrylic looks amazing.
> 
> Now i gotta read your build log to see how you did it


Experience helps a lot.

I've been working with power tools, creating and building stuff, for over 50 years.

I'll try to update the buildlog, probably on the weekend, with everything I get accomplished this week, but the window is back around page 45 ish..

I like the mirrored back panel look a lot, makes the case look not quite so narrow, since it's so long.

The real reason for the mirrored back though, is so that I can use a semi mirrored film on the side panel acrylic and get that infinite reflection effect.



Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

That pic explains it perfectly. Thanx!!!! I've already subbed to your log. I'm def gonna have to read through it all when i get chance


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Gonna start playing with the big boys now











CPU loop only atm, thinking I might get a 780 sometime early next year







. All the barbs are black chrome to


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Gonna start playing with the big boys now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU loop only atm, thinking I might get a 780 sometime early next year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . All the barbs are black chrome to


Nice!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's not a V, just the reflection makes it look that way,
> 
> It's the linear actuators for the gull wing side window:
> 
> Darlene
> 
> It's in HD, so the detail is pretty good in full screen mode.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That video seriously needed the intro fanfare to 2001: A Space Odyssey


----------



## djriful

This my $900 box and waiting for the fittings to arrive.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana




----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Nice!


Thanks







, would of have it built by now but I kinda forgot the D5 top


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pressure equalization membrane,screw in to the res top and air pressure in the loop stays atmospheric.
> Aquacomputer have had them a long time now,I used one on my SR2.


Will these help aide in expelling air while filling the loop?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Laser etched my own logo on my Monsta.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got a question, when your filling a loop do you fill it full then turn the pump or fill it a little bit, turn the pump on and continue to fill?

Friends are confusing me on how I should fill it


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Got a question, when your filling a loop do you fill it full then turn the pump or fill it a little bit, turn the pump on and continue to fill?
> 
> Friends are confusing me on how I should fill it


In general, turn off the pump when the reservoir is almost empty, then fill and repeat. Just make sure the pump doesn't suck in air.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Fill up your res, cycle your pump (with the rest of the system turned off--you can bridge your PSU with a paper clip if necessary) until the res is almost empty, refill your res and repeat until your res stays full.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> In general, turn off the pump when the reservoir is almost empty, then fill and repeat. Just make sure the pump doesn't suck in air.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Fill up your res, cycle your pump (with the rest of the system turned off--you can bridge your PSU with a paper clip if necessary) until the res is almost empty, refill your res and repeat until your res stays full.


Thanks







I'll remember it this time







, I got a Phobya bridging plug thing







got tired of trying to find the right wires. Now I just gotta sure the flow plate thingy in my block is the right one


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Well, it's definitely nothing fancy - certainly in comparison to my home PC it's absolutely pedestrian - but considering it will spend 95% of it's time on web and database development and office apps... it's still probably close to OCN overkill levels.









My 'spare parts' workstation for the office:


No log (no point really...) just your typical budget rig, with just enough gaming capabilities to keep me sane when the meetings and co-workers start getting to me and I need some FPS therapy.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll remember it this time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I got a Phobya bridging plug thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got tired of trying to find the right wires. Now I just gotta sure the flow plate thingy in my block is the right one


If your PSU wires are color coded, just short the green wire to any black common wire.
IF all wires are the same color then,
Short pin 16 (green wire)
and
pin 15 (a common wire)


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> My 'spare parts' workstation for the office:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No log (no point really...) just your typical budget rig, with just enough gaming capabilities to keep me sane when the meetings and co-workers start getting to me and I need some FPS therapy.


Nice job man!!! Looks GREAT for a "Spare" rig


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Nice job man!!! Looks GREAT for a "Spare" rig


Thanks. It came together pretty well overall - not too happy with the cable management but it will have to do. I especially don't care for the GPU cables coming from above - but I needed to use them for a little extra strain-relief for the front of the 7970 because otherwise it bends a little too much even with the backplate.


----------



## friskiest

Picked up a 680 and an AC block + plate for my htpc












Also trying really hard not to buy this.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> If your PSU wires are color coded, just short the green wire to any black common wire.
> IF all wires are the same color then,
> Short pin 16 (green wire)
> and
> pin 15 (a common wire)


yep ^ take a paper clip and fold it so u bridge the green (only 1) and a black wire (multiple). control power by the switch on the psu. turn it on, let some water get fed through, turn it off. add more water.

not sure what setup u have but make sure theres water flowing into your pump first before u turn it on... bad to have it run dry x_x

depending on your setup, u may be able to just turn it on and constantly feed a slow feed of water through funnel (or however way you are filling it up) then watch the loop bleed out all the air

u know how to bleed out the air out of your system? (not sure if this is your first time...) XD (i surely didnt when i first started)


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Also trying really hard not to buy this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do it... you'll love it! I'm trying really hard not to buy a _second_ one...


----------



## hotrod717

Just received my mountain mods case(s). 2nd is extended solid panels, missing back panel and mobo tray. I'm going to do a build in the complete case and take my time modding and building the second. Best of both worlds. Will post build logs and picks. Hopefully get some constructive criticism and advice along the way.


----------



## kpoeticg

Was wondering when some1 was gonna scoop that case up from the Marketplace


----------



## kpoeticg

Was wondering when some1 was gonna scoop that case up from the Marketplace


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Can say I'm slightly pi.. off, didn't see any where that the D5 top v2 used 3/8" threads not 1/4", just spent the last 3 hours ripping everything apart, placing rads etc then I notice the barbs I have are to small







not happy


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> about the TFC admiral series : i remember someone on this forum that had one ( years ago ) and it wasnt very good at all , i dont remember who it was , but was a long time ago , like 6-1 year ago . i do remember is that it was in this forum ...
> 
> and the russian review , yea , they say its not that great , that its just a "for show" product rather than performance ( look at the last graph )


I tested the Thermafins prototype in 2011, Performance was worst from ALL triple rads that i ever tested so far..and i tested nearly all available triple rads ! Just look in my review with 22 rads.

The sales version of the admiral is based on that rad with some changes. you can see the differences on the pics from GliderHR and me in the Groupthread

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/tfc-feser-admiral-radiatoren-748456-18.html

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/thermalfins-x-radiatoren-790262-17.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Can say I'm slightly pi.. off, didn't see any where that the D5 top v2 used 3/8" threads not 1/4", just spent the last 3 hours ripping everything apart, placing rads etc then I notice the barbs I have are to small
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not happy


That would be the extreme version

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1285&products_id=24562

The normal version is G1/4
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1285&products_id=14589


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That would be the extreme version
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1285&products_id=24562
> 
> The normal version is G1/4
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1285&products_id=14589










Thought they were both the same, oh well Im gonna hunt down some chrome black adapters for it and make it work, cant be stuffed trying to send it back lol


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> I tested the Thermafins prototype in 2011, Performance was worst from ALL triple rads that i ever tested so far..and i tested nearly all available triple rads ! Just look in my review with 22 rads.
> 
> The sales version of the admiral is based on that rad with some changes. you can see the differences on the pics from GliderHR and me in the Groupthread
> 
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/tfc-feser-admiral-radiatoren-748456-18.html
> 
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/thermalfins-x-radiatoren-790262-17.html


Thanks for that. I think I recall reading that review and a bit about that whole mess a few years back,
but hadn't really kept up with it anymore (also, wasn't there something about TFC being miffed about
Aquacomputer's modular radiators? Totally unsure about that one, just a very hazy memory). The whole
saga sounds a bit like a soap opera to me. Ah well...


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> also, wasn't there something about TFC being miffed about Aquacomputer's modular radiators?


A cold shiver ran down my spine when I saw that you mentioned this _company_ together with us in one sentence.


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> I tested the Thermafins prototype in 2011, Performance was worst from ALL triple rads that i ever tested so far..and i tested nearly all available triple rads ! Just look in my review with 22 rads.
> 
> The sales version of the admiral is based on that rad with some changes. you can see the differences on the pics from GliderHR and me in the Groupthread
> 
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/tfc-feser-admiral-radiatoren-748456-18.html
> 
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/thermalfins-x-radiatoren-790262-17.html


YEAP , here it is , i knew it









ether was here or at xtremesystems ...

too bad their "innovation" is a step back ... but hey , now we know that THAT technique fails


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> also, wasn't there something about TFC being miffed about Aquacomputer's modular radiators?
> 
> 
> 
> A cold shiver ran down my spine when I saw that you mentioned this _company_ together with us in one sentence.
Click to expand...











Too true...

It gets better,there is much drama attached to that mediocre rad...

http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=43804&highlight=admiral


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A cold shiver ran down my spine when I saw that you mentioned this _company_ together with us in one sentence.










Haha you made my day, Shoggy


----------



## bundymania

Look at diz H2O pRon now


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at diz H2O pRon now


I came. Damn.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A cold shiver ran down my spine when I saw that you mentioned this _company_ together with us in one sentence.


Bahahahahahaha!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at diz H2O pRon now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WC equivalent to the Black Beauty Les Paul!


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A cold shiver ran down my spine when I saw that you mentioned this _company_ together with us in one sentence.


Haha, yeah. As somebody who's been buying your stuff since 2001 I hope my sympathies are clear though
(Cuplex Classic FTW!







).
I just very vaguely remembered those guys making a fuss without having a legitimate case, behaving rather
unprofessionally and all that crap.

On that note: Please, a 560 AMS, I so need that! Putting two 280's together gets misaligned holes and is
hideously expensive. A 560 AMS would be perfection, especially in copper. But I'll take an Alu one as well.
Seriously, I will.

Yeah, I know, but I can dream, can't I?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too true...
> 
> It gets better,there is much drama attached to that mediocre rad...
> 
> http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=43804&highlight=admiral


Indeed, as suspected. Soap opera. Tststs.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at diz H2O pRon now


Oh my!









*EDIT:*
If I may ask: Where did you order them, directly from BP? Reason being, I most likely will need some Bitspower
goodness as well and have been trying to find a supplier; all the ones I have found so far do not carry the fittings
I need.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A cold shiver ran down my spine when I saw that you mentioned this _company_ together with us in one sentence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, yeah. As somebody who's been buying your stuff since 2001 I hope my sympathies are clear though
> (Cuplex Classic FTW!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> I just very vaguely remembered those guys making a fuss without having a legitimate case, behaving rather
> unprofessionally and all that crap.
> 
> On that note: Please, a 560 AMS, I so need that! Putting two 280's together gets misaligned holes and is
> hideously expensive. A 560 AMS would be perfection, especially in copper. But I'll take an Alu one as well.
> Seriously, I will.
> 
> Yeah, I know, but I can dream, can't I?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too true...
> 
> It gets better,there is much drama attached to that mediocre rad...
> 
> http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=43804&highlight=admiral
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Indeed, as suspected. Soap opera. Tststs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Look at diz H2O pRon now
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh my!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:*
> If I may ask: Where did you order them, directly from BP? Reason being, I most likely will need some Bitspower
> goodness as well and have been trying to find a supplier; all the ones I have found so far do not carry the fittings
> I need.
Click to expand...

Give Lily or Vincent a mail with your requirements,normally the bitspower.hk addy is best to get them on.


----------



## siffonen

Finally got leds that i ordered. Still working on with them, probably putting some white leds behind motherboard so that it glows. Here is is current state:









Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Give Lily or Vincent a mail with your requirements,normally the bitspower.hk addy is best to get them on.


They work for BP? bitspower.hk redirects me to waifong.com, can't find BP anywhere on there, you sure you're not
talking about bitspower.com.tw? Sorry if I'm being slow today, I certainly appreciate your help.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Was wondering when some1 was gonna scoop that case up from the Marketplace


Couldn't pass it up! Got a better price than what he was asking. Complete case and almost a second with solid alu panels. Now i can do 2 different builds for the price of one! I almost have all the parts. I still need a couple odds and ends, but should be getting started this week!


----------



## nyk20z3

Few more parts came in today -

Just waiting on the Swiftech rads and EK Lighting Water Block to complete the loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Few more parts came in today -
> 
> Just waiting on the Swiftech rads and EK Lighting Water Block to complete the loop.


What rads do you need?


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What rads do you need?


Swiftech MCRx20-XP 120mm & 240mm.

I should have them by mid next week.

Decided to go with a full Swiftech loop this time around since i had an issue fitting a Alphacool XT45 in my Haf XB.The 240mm MCRx20-XP is the perfect thickness and performance i was looking for.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Finally got leds that i ordered. Still working on with them, probably putting some white leds behind motherboard so that it glows. Here is is current state:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


hey there, can i ask what brand the LEDs you got for your CPU block are? i tried some UV LEDs that i got at microcenter and tailed myself, and they dont put out hardly any light, not near enough to light my block like that.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> hey there, can i ask what brand the LEDs you got for your CPU block are? i tried some UV LEDs that i got at microcenter and tailed myself, and they dont put out hardly any light, not near enough to light my block like that.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I bought these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-PCS-3mm-Ultraviolet-UV-LEDs-Pre-Wired-Lights-12V-DC-Bulbs-Lamps-20cm-/300881712955?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460df2973b


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> They work for BP? bitspower.hk redirects me to waifong.com, can't find BP anywhere on there, you sure you're not
> talking about *bitspower.com.tw*? Sorry if I'm being slow today, I certainly appreciate your help.


To order, or ask for an estimate you have to send them an email with the correct codes to this address: [email protected]


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> To order, or ask for an estimate you have to send them an email with the correct codes to this address: [email protected]


Awesome, thanks!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I bought these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-PCS-3mm-Ultraviolet-UV-LEDs-Pre-Wired-Lights-12V-DC-Bulbs-Lamps-20cm-/300881712955?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460df2973b


awesome, thanks a lot.


----------



## kcuestag

Got my waterblock today:







So far it dropped idle temperatures from 50-60ºC to 28-34ºC, let's try load temperatures now.







.

However, I'm a bit dissapointed at EK as the FC-LINK (Bridge?) that comes with the block had one defective thread and I could hardly place the G1/4" plugs included, not sure if it'll ever leak but I am a bit dissapointed.


----------



## LiquidHaus

some progress lately.. i'll need to update my build log soon. until then, here are some quick shots of the rig so far


----------



## Drifbau5

I'm about to order a block for my 770 but I'm wondering if i should get another radiator also. I have a Prodigy so the space is limited. Currently I have a Black Ice GT Steath 240 for my 4770k. I've been reading and a lot of people say a 240 isn't enough for CPU + GPU. So do you guys think its necessary for me to grab a 120 or 140 rad? Or should I get a better, thicker 240 rad to replace my current one. The rig and pictures are on my sig.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> I'm about to order a block for my 770 but I'm wondering if i should get another radiator also. I have a Prodigy so the space is limited. Currently I have a Black Ice GT Steath 240 for my 4770k. I've been reading and a lot of people say a 240 isn't enough for CPU + GPU. So do you guys think its necessary for me to grab a 120 or 140 rad? Or should I get a better, thicker 240 rad to replace my current one. The rig and pictures are on my sig.


You'll be fine with one 240 radiator, the 4770K does get hot but doesn't pass that much heat like GPU does.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> I'm about to order a block for my 770 but I'm wondering if i should get another radiator also. I have a Prodigy so the space is limited. Currently I have a Black Ice GT Steath 240 for my 4770k. I've been reading and a lot of people say a 240 isn't enough for CPU + GPU. So do you guys think its necessary for me to grab a 120 or 140 rad? Or should I get a better, thicker 240 rad to replace my current one. The rig and pictures are on my sig.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll be fine with one 240 radiator, the 4770K does get hot but doesn't pass that much heat like GPU does.
Click to expand...

Gonna disagree....for a CPU and GPU you really should have at least 360mm rad space....may be able to 'get by' on 240 if you are using a thicker one with high RPM fans, but still would recommend putting in the extra 120 or 140, in addition to good fans


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Gonna disagree....for a CPU and GPU you really should have at least 360mm rad space....may be able to 'get by' on 240 if you are using a thicker one with high RPM fans, but still would recommend putting in the extra 120 or 140, in addition to good fans


I agree with cyphon. I've always heard rule of thumb is 120mm of rad space per waterblock plus an extra 120mm on top of that. 240 would probably be okay if you weren't overclocking or benchmarking. But as soon as you start overclocking or putting heavy loads on CPU and/or GPU your temps will rise pretty quick. That being said, I'd also recommend at least 360


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Got my waterblock today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far it dropped idle temperatures from 50-60ºC to 28-34ºC, let's try load temperatures now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> However, I'm a bit dissapointed at EK as the FC-LINK (Bridge?) that comes with the block had one defective thread and I could hardly place the G1/4" plugs included, not sure if it'll ever leak but I am a bit dissapointed.


Really?







Do you have any pics of it?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Got my waterblock today:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far it dropped idle temperatures from 50-60ºC to 28-34ºC, let's try load temperatures now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> However, I'm a bit dissapointed at EK as the FC-LINK (Bridge?) that comes with the block had one defective thread and I could hardly place the G1/4" plugs included, not sure if it'll ever leak but I am a bit dissapointed.


Why didn't you contact EK, I'm sure they'd remedy it fairly quickly for you.....

EDIT:
lol, didn't see that EK had already responded when i posted


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any pics of it?


Sadly I don't, I'd have to drain the loop again and unmount the card from the loop, and seeing as I'm not getting leaks, I'd rather be playing games since we are on holiday than removing the loop again.









I'll send you a PM.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> They haven't even released that block yet =P
> 
> It's up on their site but it hasn't been released yet. And the Nickel version's coming out like 2 weeks after the copper version according to Shoggy. That's the 290x block


Humour obviously escapes some people









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Give Lily or Vincent a mail with your requirements,normally the bitspower.hk addy is best to get them on.


*THIS^^^
*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> They work for BP? bitspower.hk redirects me to waifong.com, can't find BP anywhere on there, you sure you're not
> talking about bitspower.com.tw? Sorry if I'm being slow today, I certainly appreciate your help.


quicker method is to contact them through Skype(shopservice bitspowertw)

-they are on during *THEIR* business hrs (6-8 hrs ahead of Europe, depending on where you are) -*much* quicker that way.

7 days postage from Taiwan to Europe in my case more than once-i just got a huge order sent through a week ago for my upcoming build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

'Do you even touchscreen your S3 pedestal bro?'


----------



## derickwm




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


And? Mister pimping EK?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And? Mister pimping EK?


Ad hominem. Disqualified.


----------



## derickwm

I SELF PROCLAIMED IT AS MY DAY OFF FOR BIRTHDAY

/waitsfortiborrr


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And? Mister pimping EK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ad hominem. Disqualified.
Click to expand...

Sorry,I will rename this thread 'The EK Advertising thread'









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I SELF PROCLAIMED IT AS MY DAY OFF FOR BIRTHDAY
> 
> /waitsfortiborrr


Yeah,thats right,wait for the organ grinder..









Niko says you dont have days off anymore as he actually owns you and has tattoo gun waiting on your return to Slovenia

And its not off topic as its the display for Aquasuite.

So Ner!


----------



## kpoeticg

B-Neg, is that a Laptop screen or Ipad screen?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> B-Neg, is that a Laptop screen or Ipad screen?


Ask in my log as its,quite rightly,off topic.....


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Humour obviously escapes some people


Sorry bout that. Sometimes it can be tough to tell online =P
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ask in my log as its,quite rightly,off topic.....


Ok, i will. Just gonna comment tho that if the screen was 10x smaller it wouldn't be off topic =)


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry,I will rename this thread 'The EK Advertising thread'


I think you're confusing this thread with my build logs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Humour obviously escapes some people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry bout that. Sometimes it can be tough to tell online =P
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ask in my log as its,quite rightly,off topic.....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok, i will. Just gonna comment tho that if the screen was 10x smaller it wouldn't be off topic =)
Click to expand...

Maybe slap a waterblock on it......full cover of course.

I mean,once you watercool your fan controller,where do you go next?


----------



## Michalius

PSU, obviously. What could go wrong?


----------



## derickwm

Watercool the backplate of the CPU socket of course 

Like some guy on EVGA wanted to do for whatever reason...


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Watercool the backplate of the CPU socket of course
> 
> Like some guy on EVGA wanted to do for whatever reason...


Can you make watercooling for monitors? They get pretty hot as well.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the Aquaero 5 actually needs the Waterblock =P

But i'd say HD's and PSU are the final pointless additions to a loop =)
But once your cooling is about down to ambient, you gotta get your upgrades in where you can LOL (not that I'd know from experience, someday)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Watercool the backplate of the CPU socket of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like some guy on EVGA wanted to do for whatever reason...


Now that's weird. I thought I'd heard some strange requests, but that takes the cake.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> PSU, obviously. What could go wrong?


..........ask Koolance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Watercool the backplate of the CPU socket of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like some guy on EVGA wanted to do for whatever reason...


Yeah,EVGA forums have flashes of brilliance but there is much weirdness to wade thru......

Got to admit that i once considered it tho...









This is awesomesauce all day long tho...the work of someone before their time....


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## LiquidHaus

watercooling an ssd.

dare to be different


----------



## PwrElec

water cool the fans


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,EVGA forums have flashes of brilliance but there is much weirdness to wade thru......
> 
> Got to admit that i once considered it tho...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is awesomesauce all day long tho...the work of someone before their time....


Y0 dawg...

Dat restriction doh.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that card could definitely use it's own 35x2 LOL


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ..........ask Koolance.
> Yeah,EVGA forums have flashes of brilliance but there is much weirdness to wade thru......
> 
> Got to admit that i once considered it tho...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is awesomesauce all day long tho...the work of someone before their time....


all that and none for the VREG's???

funny


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I think you're confusing this thread with my build logs.


I think you have your build log confused with mine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got to admit that i once considered it tho...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is awesomesauce all day long tho...the work of someone before their time....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Y0 dawg...
> 
> Dat restriction doh.
Click to expand...

But it has epic tubings!

Bask in its magnificence!


----------



## LiquidHaus

lol what card is that?


----------



## BramSLI1

I think it's a GTX 480. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong though.


----------



## derickwm

My money is also on it being a 580.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My money is also on it being a 580.


580 and 480 have nearly the same PCB. It's hard to tell.


----------



## derickwm

I think 480 PCBs usually have those weird holes in the back of the PCB in that blank half circle spot, but that might've been only some.


----------



## SeeThruHead

3loops in parallel on one card. That's awesome.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I think 480 PCBs usually have those weird holes in the back of the PCB in that blank half circle spot, but that might've been only some.


I believe you're right about that.


----------



## brandon6199

Are there any threads that list some of the preferred cases for water cooling? I'm looking for some of the most common/easiest to work with cases for my first water cooling build.

Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Are there any threads that list some of the preferred cases for water cooling? I'm looking for some of the most common/easiest to work with cases for my first water cooling build.
> 
> Thanks.


You'll want to take a look at full-tower cases for the most part. Be sure that they say they can fit at least 3 120 or 140mm fans at the top and another 2 120 or 140mm fans at the bottom. These are going to be some of the best cases for water cooling. The full-tower NZXT, Corsair, and Lian Li cases will be your best bet. Of course you can always go with Case Labs. They're pricey, but the construction and ease of use are worth it in my opinion.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You'll want to take a look at full-tower cases for the most part. Be sure that they say they can fit at least 3 120 or 140mm fans at the top and another 2 120 or 140mm fans at the bottom. These are going to be some of the best cases for water cooling. The full-tower NZXT, Corsair, and Lian Li cases will be your best bet. Of course you can always go with Case Labs. They're pricey, but the construction and ease of use are worth it in my opinion.


Thanks. Would you recommend any mid-tower cases for watercooling?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thanks. Would you recommend any mid-tower cases for watercooling?


I would look at the Cooler Master HAF XM or the Corsair Carbide 500R. Those are about some of the best mid-tower cases for water cooling.


----------



## LiquidHaus

then again, it's *always* more fun to get a case that isn't built specifically for what you have in mind, and modding it becomes the only option. making something your own is more respectable imo than cookie cutter wc builds.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> then again, it's *always* more fun to get a case that isn't built specifically for what you have in mind, and modding it becomes the only option. making something your own is more respectable imo than cookie cutter wc builds.


I would have to agree. Not everyone though has access to the necessary tools, or the time and patience required for modding. I'm more in the second category.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> quicker method is to contact them through Skype(shopservice bitspowertw)
> 
> -they are on during *THEIR* business hrs (6-8 hrs ahead of Europe, depending on where you are) -*much* quicker that way.
> 
> 7 days postage from Taiwan to Europe in my case more than once-i just got a huge order sent through a week ago for my upcoming build.


Awesome, thanks! I'm in no hurry since I need to pay some substantial bills before I can order
the fittings, it will probably be end of year before I can pull the trigger on this, but thank you!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ..........ask Koolance.


Haha, I can vouch for, let's say peculiarities, in their liquid-cooled PSU designs (although
I'm not quite certain it actually has anything to do with the liquid cooling of the PSU). I'm
still planning on using that baby at some point though, it is a pretty magnificent beast.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,EVGA forums have flashes of brilliance but there is much weirdness to wade thru......
> 
> Got to admit that i once considered it tho...


Dammit, don't give me ideas like that!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is awesomesauce all day long tho...the work of someone before their time....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hehe, now that is just glorious!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Are there any threads that list some of the preferred cases for water cooling? I'm looking for some of the most common/easiest to work with cases for my first water cooling build.
> 
> Thanks.


Budget?

Pretty much everything Corsair supports a 240 rad in multiples,not seen a bad case from them yet really.
If you have some money to burn then Little Devil or Caselabs are hard to beat.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Budget?
> 
> Pretty much everything Corsair supports a 240 rad in multiples,not seen a bad case from them yet really.
> If you have some money to burn then Little Devil or Caselabs are hard to beat.


How about $300? I was looking at Corsair 800D/900D models, but I feel like they are gigantic.


----------



## VSG

The larger cases of course make custom loop water cooling a lot easier and give you many options. So you can decide if you want a mid size full tower with limited options or a bigger case. Either way, a custom loop adds a ton of weight so moving a case around isn't easy. For me, knowing that I won't be moving stuff around much, I went for a 900D.

Having said all this, some of the caselabs cases make the 900D look tiny in comparison so size is relative


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> How about $300? I was looking at Corsair 800D/900D models, but I feel like they are gigantic.


I vote 800D


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I vote 800D


Are you able to mount a 480 rad or 2 240 rads inside the case? (on the bottom)?

Do you have pics of your setup?


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Are you able to mount a 480 rad or 2 240 rads inside the case? (on the bottom)?
> 
> Do you have pics of your setup?


A 480 in the top and 240 in the bottom are common 800D mods. Without mods it will support a 360 in the top, 120/140 in the back and 120/140 in the bottom. I really like my 800D and it was a great choice when I bought it but IMO the 750D really challenges the 800D's relevance. 800D needs a price cut.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thanks. Would you recommend any mid-tower cases for watercooling?


Also the fractal arc midi r2 is a great mid tower designed with water cooling in mind


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Are you able to mount a 480 rad or 2 240 rads inside the case? (on the bottom)?
> 
> Do you have pics of your setup?


I originally had a 360mm up top, a 240mm on bottom, and a 120mm on the front/rear.

My current plan right now is a 480mm Monsta at the bottom but sideways, a 360mm SR1 on the side, a 240mm SR1 at the front, an EX240 at the top, and maybe a 120mm SR1 at the back, but we'll see.

here it sits as of right now:











and here have been setups i've done with it before:



*&*


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> How about $300? I was looking at Corsair 800D/900D models, but I feel like they are gigantic.


Phanteks enthoo primo







many different options on rads and it look soo much better than the obsidians


----------



## _Killswitch_

I don't Know, I really like my 900D. Probably best case I have bought to-date, Glad I decided to go for it and replace my switch 810.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> How about $300? I was looking at Corsair 800D/900D models, but I feel like they are gigantic.
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks enthoo primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> many different options on rads and it look soo much better than the obsidians
Click to expand...

I forgot about the Primo,that's my choice right there.


----------



## GhostDog99

The 900D is why better case than the 800D


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> The 900D is why better case than the 800D


I love the 900D, just wish it had more rigidity. The case easily wobbles and flexes.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I love the 900D, just wish it had more rigidity. The case easily wobbles and flexes.


i think your right it needs more rigidity

but still the 800D my have more rigidity but for a 300$ + case and it only superts 360 Rad +240 Rad is BS you can get a 750D for 150$ with same Rad room
would never buy it and even whan you mod it ther is not that much more Rad room

the 900D has room for 2 480 Rads + 2 240 Rads with out any modding the for a round the same price point
for water cooling you cant cumper them even for air cooling the 900d is better


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> i think your right it needs more rigidity
> 
> but still the 800D my have more rigidity but for a 300$ + case and it only superts 360 Rad +240 Rad is BS you can get a 750D for 150$ with same Rad room
> would never buy it and even whan you mod it ther is not that much more Rad room
> 
> the 900D has room for 2 480 Rads + 2 240 Rads with out any modding the for a round the same price point
> for water cooling you cant cumper them even for air cooling the 900d is better


I agree, with errrthang!







Most 900D air cooled builds look silly. Mine looked ******ed, the only thing that saved my build from looking like a failure was the Geforce Led's glowing through the window. Definitely made for water cooling. I will be adding a second rad, after I get my new mobo with water blocks. I also like the look of the water cooled ram kits by EK i think they are called MOnarch or something like that, so might be adding those too to justify another 480 rad. lol I need some quieter fans, and a fan controller. these performance SP120 from corsair are really loud.

Hopefully the 1000D doesn't disappoint and arrives in time for my next case upgrade lol.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> The 900D is why better case than the 800D


The 900 should be better.....it is the evolution of the 800.


----------



## ginger_nuts

1000D









Shouldn't it be 1K


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I agree, with errrthang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most 900D air cooled builds look silly. Mine looked ******ed, the only thing that saved my build from looking like a failure was the Geforce Led's glowing through the window. Definitely made for water cooling. I will be adding a second rad, after I get my new mobo with water blocks. I also like the look of the water cooled ram kits by EK i think they are called MOnarch or something like that, so might be adding those too to justify another 480 rad. lol I need some quieter fans, and a fan controller. these performance SP120 from corsair are really loud.
> 
> Hopefully the 1000D doesn't disappoint and arrives in time for my next case upgrade lol.


you should have got the sp120 quiet edition

or even better AP-14 , AP-15 , AP-00/45 best Rad Fas ever nois/performance


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> you should have got the sp120 quiet edition
> 
> or even better AP-14 , AP-15 , AP-00/45 best Rad Fas ever nois/performance


Yeah, should definitely have gone with quieter fans.

Great Firestrike Score BTW!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

AP-15's on 5 or 7v







got 5 of them on 5v and another in the mobo at 1600rpm, more or less silent


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yeah, should definitely have gone with quieter fans.
> 
> Great Firestrike Score BTW!


Thanks mate









and you know for next time a bout the fans









in my first build i used the coolermaster slick flows never agen lol


----------



## kcuestag

Here is the R9 290X finally on water:


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here is the R9 290X finally on water:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Nice


----------



## tiborrr12

Now that's a nice rig!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Now that's a nice rig!


And a very sexy looking waterblocks (Both CPU and GPU)!


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I think 480 PCBs usually have those weird holes in the back of the PCB in that blank half circle spot, but that might've been only some.


Sometimes it worries me how well you can identify GPUs.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey gang,

Does anyone know where this nickel supremacy mounting plate might be in stock anywhere besides EK?

It's like 28 Euros shipping for a 8E part.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/mounting-plate-supremacy-intel-nickel.html

I think it looks so much nicer than the black mounting plate that came with my block.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Solonowarion

Could you remove the paint from the black mounting plate? Sand and polish?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Does anyone know where this nickel supremacy mounting plate might be in stock anywhere besides EK?
> 
> It's like 28 Euros shipping for a 8E part.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/mounting-plate-supremacy-intel-nickel.html
> 
> I think it looks so much nicer than the black mounting plate that came with my block.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


You may be in luck,i think I have one in my spares box.
Lemme check and get back to you,if its still there then you can have it for postage.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Does anyone know where this nickel supremacy mounting plate might be in stock anywhere besides EK?
> 
> It's like 28 Euros shipping for a 8E part.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/mounting-plate-supremacy-intel-nickel.html
> 
> I think it looks so much nicer than the black mounting plate that came with my block.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> You may be in luck,i think I have one in my spares box.
> Lemme check and get back to you,if its still there then you can have it for postage.
Click to expand...

That would be Awesome!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Could you remove the paint from the black mounting plate? Sand and polish?


I don't think that would work out well.

Unless it were stainless steel, and the magnet test tells me it's not, in this tropical marine environment, it'd turn to rust in a jiffy without the nickel plating.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Does anyone know where this nickel supremacy mounting plate might be in stock anywhere besides EK?
> 
> It's like 28 Euros shipping for a 8E part.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/mounting-plate-supremacy-intel-nickel.html
> 
> I think it looks so much nicer than the black mounting plate that came with my block.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> You may be in luck,i think I have one in my spares box.
> Lemme check and get back to you,if its still there then you can have it for postage.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That would be Awesome!
Click to expand...

You are very welcome Darlene.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here is the R9 290X finally on water:


Argh... making me jealous







.

I'm still waiting on the 280X blocks. I'm really confused as to how the 290X got a block before it even released and the 280X which has been out for like twice as long still doesn't although it's been announced a while ago.

It's weird that the acrylic blocks come with a POM "terminal" btw.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Argh... making me jealous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'm still waiting on the 280X blocks. I'm really confused as to how the 290X got a block before it even released and the 280X which has been out for like twice as long still doesn't although it's been announced a while ago.
> 
> It's weird that the acrylic blocks come with a POM "terminal" btw.


The 280X does have a block, which is the one used for the HD7970.









Just make sure your model of 280X uses the reference 7970 PCB.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The 280X does have a block, which is the one used for the HD7970.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just make sure your model of 280X uses the reference 7970 PCB.


Thanks but no it doesn't really. They just renamed the 7970 Matrix. And said "use the old 7970 blocks for reference card, they'll work on many models", they didn't even bother changing the 7970 writing on the them. And I'd read somewhere somebody who got one of the Sapphire 280Xes that was said to have a reference 7970 block and is said compatible on Cooling Config but the block wouldn't fit because of a slight difference in height of a transistor or whatever.

What I was talking about was this









EK-FC R9-280X DCII

Btw, how come nobody's been posting pictures of watercooled 280Xes (with 7970 blocks) ? Even in the 280x club I don't think I've heard of anyone watercooling one yet. But it seems like about half of the 280X owners there got a DC2T anyway. Others either went with the Gaming edition or sapphire cards (there are a few XFXes too)


----------



## tiborrr12

You won't see 'reference' R9 280X blocks, because R9 280X doesn't have reference design, it's just a chip/card specification. Same with R9 270X.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> You won't see 'reference' R9 280X blocks, because R9 280X doesn't have reference design, it's just a chip/card specification. Same with R9 270X.


Yeah I know.

I suppose that what I refer to as a reference 280X is just a 280X using a reference 7970 PCB


----------



## Anoxy

So I'm looking at compression fittings on frozencpu rightnow. It seems like most people around here buy the Bitspower brand, but the EK and XSPC fittings are significantly cheaper. Are they lesser quality, or will I probably not even notice a difference?


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

ive used both ek and bitspower fittings. the ek ones are nice, however i did recently get some black CSQ 90 degree fitttings from ek and they looked kinda meh... bitspowers quality is really second to none. you can feel the difference in quality just by holding a bitspower fitting and another brands fittings in your hand. for instance i was in a pinch and had to buy some swiftech compression fittings from microcenter and they are literally ****e compared to a bitspower fitting.

so, ek is ok for fittings, but if you want the most reliable and best quality, spend the extra moneys for bitspower. they are worth it.


----------



## MocoIMO

Here is my setup. It's just a standard H100i in a 350D for now, Planning a custom loop with SLi 780's after the Holiday season


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MocoIMO*
> 
> Here is my setup. It's just a standard H100i in a 350D for now, Planning a custom loop with SLi 780's after the Holiday season
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excellent cable management for a case of that size. Can't wait to see some watercooled SLI action in there!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> ive used both ek and bitspower fittings. the ek ones are nice, however i did recently get some black CSQ 90 degree fitttings from ek and they looked kinda meh... bitspowers quality is really second to none. you can feel the difference in quality just by holding a bitspower fitting and another brands fittings in your hand. for instance i was in a pinch and had to buy some swiftech compression fittings from microcenter and they are literally ****e compared to a bitspower fitting.
> 
> so, ek is ok for fittings, but if you want the most reliable and best quality, spend the extra moneys for bitspower. they are worth it.


Thank you.

One more question; what should I be looking to buy for an SLI set-up? Do I need a a bridge like this?

I'll be using EK FC Titan SE blocks.


----------



## Mr357

Would anyone happen to know the proper proportion for mixing Primochill Liquid Utopia into distilled? I was told a long time ago that the instructions are incorrect, and now I can't find the "correct" instructions.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> One more question; what should I be looking to buy for an SLI set-up? Do I need a a bridge like this?
> 
> I'll be using EK FC Titan SE blocks.


i think you need the new version, like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18973/ex-blc-1421/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel.html?tl=g30c101s873


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Phanteks enthoo primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> many different options on rads and it look soo much better than the obsidians


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I forgot about the Primo,that's my choice right there.


This is the only case outside of CL/LD/Lian Li that I would consider.

The Lian Li PC-D600 is a great option too, though it's about $350.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I think 480 PCBs usually have those weird holes in the back of the PCB in that blank half circle spot, but that might've been only some.
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes it worries me how well you can identify GPUs.
> 
> It's a problem...
Click to expand...

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> One more question; what should I be looking to buy for an SLI set-up? Do I need a a bridge like this?
> 
> I'll be using EK FC Titan SE blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> i think you need the new version, like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18973/ex-blc-1421/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel.html?tl=g30c101s873
Click to expand...

This is correct.


----------



## _Killswitch_

I have odd question any of you watercooling guru's out there have the Aquacomputer Cuplex Kyro's cpu block with any of Primochill Ridge Acrylic fittings?

Just curious is there enough space for the fittings without using angles or anything.


----------



## rickyman0319

what do u guys think of Lian Li D8000 case? I am thinking to put watercooling and server altogether.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> I have odd question any of you watercooling guru's out there have the Aquacomputer Cuplex Kyro's cpu block with any of Primochill Ridge Acrylic fittings?
> 
> Just curious is there enough space for the fittings without using angles or anything.


Distance between holes on the Kryos is 23.75 mm according to AC, but I have not been able to
find the diameter of the Primochill fittings anywhere. You could always mail their support and
ask them though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what do u guys think of Lian Li D8000 case? I am thinking to put watercooling and server altogether.


I have had PC-343B for a few years now. While it was a pretty decent case for its time, it is
rather flimsy, and if the D8000's build quality is similar it will be woefully underequipped to
really handle a full load. I don't know if that's the case though, my dad's Lian Li case is built
pretty solidly, so it seems to vary a bit.

But regardless of that, unless you just really need all of those HDD spaces, I would recommend
a Caselabs or an LD case over that one. The one review I've read on it was not overly enthusiastic.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im no Lian Li fan,thats a certainty...Unless its Lian Li 'AcidTrip' weirdness...Dat Sea shell case,FTW.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Need some help!

How long should I let a component dry before powering it on?

Last night during a leak test, I spilled a bit of water on one of my Titans, I'm currently leak testing( going on 18 hours now). Everything looks good, but I'm feeling paranoid about connecting everything. Any ideas?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Need some help!
> 
> How long should I let a component dry before powering it on?
> 
> Last night during a leak test, I spilled a bit of water on one of my Titans, I'm currently leak testing( going on 18 hours now). Everything looks good, but I'm feeling paranoid about connecting everything. Any ideas?


I would let it dry for 24-12 hours and blow dry it too


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> I would let it dry for 24-12 hours and blow dry it too


You could use a blow dryer but definitely don't use a heat gun.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> You could use a blow dryer but definitely don't use a heat gun.


Oh god....how much would that suck, lol


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> You could use a blow dryer but definitely don't use a heat gun.


Yes I meant a blow dryer


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> I would let it dry for 24-12 hours and blow dry it too


Been drying for about 18. Now, so later tonight it should be ok?

I'll use a blow drier too, thanks for the tip.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Need some help!
> 
> How long should I let a component dry before powering it on?
> 
> Last night during a leak test, I spilled a bit of water on one of my Titans, I'm currently leak testing( going on 18 hours now). Everything looks good, but I'm feeling paranoid about connecting everything. Any ideas?


go buy a 10 pound bag of rice and submerge it in the rice over night


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Been drying for about 18. Now, so later tonight it should be ok?
> 
> I'll use a blow drier too, thanks for the tip.


Ya it should be good just double check that it is 100%
Dry before you power it up


----------



## jerby

Here are some poor photos of a water cooled Caselabs S3 I put together (much thanks to B-NEGATIVE for the pipe bending guide).









These were taken with an iPad. It honestly looks much, much better in person.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerby*
> 
> Here are some poor photos of a water cooled Caselabs S3 I put together (much thanks to B-NEGATIVE for the pipe bending guide).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These were taken with an iPad. It honestly looks much, much better in person.


That looks amazing! Great job.


----------



## cyphon

Looks sweet jerby....man if you had those pipes chromed out tho...


----------



## phillyd

I'm considering doing a super-cheap but good-looking loop for my 6800k in my prodigy. I was going to just do a Corsair H90, so I figured I'd just do a single 140mm rad. I have a 140mm fan grill modded in the top of my case.

Here's my cart so far. See any ways I can shave off money?


----------



## VSG

You can save by going with barbs instead of compression fittings.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can save by going with barbs instead of compression fittings.


I want it to look good.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'm considering doing a super-cheap but good-looking loop for my 6800k in my prodigy. I was going to just do a Corsair H90, so I figured I'd just do a single 140mm rad. I have a 140mm fan grill modded in the top of my case.
> 
> Here's my cart so far. See any ways I can shave off money?


Not sure about saving $$$, but why would you go with those ugly azz fittings when they have the rigid revolver series now?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39228

Also, do you mean to get a 230V pump?

Darlene


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quick question;

My better half is nagging me to clean up my excess amount of computer bits n pieces.

Just wondering how you people keep your bit n pieces organised?

Do you have 101 containers with specific bits (1 for barbs, 1 for clamps, 1 for tubing / pipe, 1 for pumps, 1 for rads etc etc) ?

Do you have everything just stuffed in with each other? case bits, fan bits, WC bits etc etc.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I want it to look good.


Clampless 3/8" ID 1/2" OD barbs looks super hot.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure about saving $$$, but why would you go with those ugly azz fittings when they have the rigid revolver series now?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39228
> 
> Also, do you mean to get a 230V pump?
> 
> Darlene


I think the original ones look WAY better than the new ones. New ones are ugly.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure about saving $$$, but why would you go with those ugly azz fittings when they have the rigid revolver series now?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39228
> 
> Also, do you mean to get a 230V pump?
> 
> Darlene


All of this

Plus, trying to 'save money' when water cooling generally gets you into trouble









Pick the things based on performance, looks, and size and then save up an extra month or two if you have to and do it right. If you have a machine that currently runs and don't need to be in a huge hurry, you can always build it in stages which tends to lead to better builds and it is easier to pay when splitting the cost over some time versus trying to do it all at once.

Also, I'd put in a 240 or 280 rad instead of a 120 or 140


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quick question;
> 
> My better half is nagging me to clean up my excess amount of computer bits n pieces.
> 
> Just wondering how you people keep your bit n pieces organised?
> 
> Do you have 101 containers with specific bits (1 for barbs, 1 for clamps, 1 for tubing / pipe, 1 for pumps, 1 for rads etc etc) ?
> 
> Do you have everything just stuffed in with each other? case bits, fan bits, WC bits etc etc.


I use small storage bins to separate watercooling from non-watercooling. Then in this bins I separate individual bits and pieces using zip lock and crown royal bags. Larger items such as fans and old hardware are all just thrown together in a box


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I use small storage bins to separate watercooling from non-watercooling. Then in this bins I separate individual bits and pieces using zip lock and crown royal bags. Larger items such as fans and old hardware are all just thrown together in a box


I do something similar. I try to be organized by it always gets chaotic lol


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Gonna disagree....for a CPU and GPU you really should have at least 360mm rad space....may be able to 'get by' on 240 if you are using a thicker one with high RPM fans, but still would recommend putting in the extra 120 or 140, in addition to good fans


I agree with this, having a pair of 770s I can attest to the amount of heat these bad boys can create and it will be too much for a 240 for both components. My dual 770s go to a 480 to deal with the heat output. You might want to look in to extra rad space.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Although I agree with the 120mm per block plus 120mm extra comment... the easy answer is "as much radiator as you can possibly fit in your case... period"









In my recent build all I could fit was a 240mm and a 120mm... but believe me if the case was a little bigger - and despite only using it for work 95% of the time... I still wish I could have shoehorned another 240mm in there.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah it's true. The Rule of Thumb is the minimum recommended for "Adequate" cooling, but its not like you're computer will explode if you can't fit a 360. Just might not get the performance you were hoping for. Plus you always have option of upgrading in the future and adding an external rad if you want better temps...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I agree with as much rad as you can fit, I got a 360 and 240 going into my sig rig to cool my 2500k and 670 maybe 780 if I have the money


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I'm looking at compression fittings on frozencpu rightnow. It seems like most people around here buy the Bitspower brand, but the EK and XSPC fittings are significantly cheaper. Are they lesser quality, or will I probably not even notice a difference?


I have tried all three and I found the XSPC easier to use VS the others. I like the slotted barb tip to ensure you can tighten them appropriately and the compression caps are easy to grip and tighten.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Would anyone happen to know the proper proportion for mixing Primochill Liquid Utopia into distilled? I was told a long time ago that the instructions are incorrect, and now I can't find the "correct" instructions.


I just pour it to a gallon of distilled, if that's wrong I have no clue.


----------



## defiler2k

New project for the weekend, we are going acrylic! Plus I liked the performance of the new EK rads that I decided to replace my AX480 for two cool streams 480's and get rid of the XSPC ones. I'm also selling off my res and one of my pumps since I'm going to use one of the EK D5 res. Now all I need is two more FC-770's for my two additional 770's on their way.


----------



## ginger_nuts

In general terms, do newer chips and gpus put out more or less heat (energy) then older ones?

Trying to settle a discussion with a friend.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Although I agree with the 120mm per block plus 120mm extra comment... the easy answer is "as much radiator as you can possibly fit in your case... period"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my recent build all I could fit was a 240mm and a 120mm... but believe me if the case was a little bigger - and despite only using it for work 95% of the time... I still wish I could have shoehorned another 240mm in there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I agree with as much rad as you can fit, I got a 360 and 240 going into my sig rig to cool my 2500k and 670 maybe 780 if I have the money


ha! that was the whole purpose to the revision of my 800D.

I'm still working on it, but I got a 360, 240, another 240, and a 120... with a 480 coming soon as well! muahahah!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New project for the weekend, we are going acrylic! Plus I liked the performance of the new EK rads that I decided to replace my AX480 for two cool streams 480's and get rid of the XSPC ones. I'm also selling off my res and one of my pumps since I'm going to use one of the EK D5 res. Now all I need is two more FC-770's for my two additional 770's on their way.


What was the fan setup on the EK PE rad that you liked the performance on. I'm about to order an ST30 240, and XT45 360 that'll have one set of GT AP-00's on each of em. I was looking at those Coolstream PE's too, but I'm kinda assuming that they're too dense for one set of fans. Am I right?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure about saving $$$, but why would you go with those ugly azz fittings when they have the rigid revolver series now?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39228
> 
> Also, do you mean to get a 230V pump?
> 
> Darlene


I just found the cheapest pump, but I realize that there could be some compatibility issues hah. Any suggestions for a small and cheap pump/res?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Clampless 3/8" ID 1/2" OD barbs looks super hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the original ones look WAY better than the new ones. New ones are ugly.


It's a lan rig so I want no risk of leakage.

I agree on the looks though. They're a bit cheaper too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> In general terms, do newer chips and gpus put out more or less heat (energy) then older ones?
> 
> Trying to settle a discussion with a friend.


GPU's: same/less in some cases
AMD CPU's: More (slowly)
Intel CPU's: Less (in most cases)

TDP is the amount of heat, in watts, that the chip is meant to give off at max load. So, in general, you can use this to determine relative heat output at stock settings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure about saving $$$, but why would you go with those ugly azz fittings when they have the rigid revolver series now?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39228
> 
> Also, do you mean to get a 230V pump?
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I just found the cheapest pump, but I realize that there could be some compatibility issues hah. Any suggestions for a small and cheap pump/res?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Clampless 3/8" ID 1/2" OD barbs looks super hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the original ones look WAY better than the new ones. New ones are ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's a lan rig so I want no risk of leakage.
> 
> I agree on the looks though. They're a bit cheaper too.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> In general terms, do newer chips and gpus put out more or less heat (energy) then older ones?
> 
> Trying to settle a discussion with a friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> GPU's: same/less in some cases
> AMD CPU's: More (slowly)
> Intel CPU's: Less (in most cases)
> 
> *TDP is the amount of heat, in watts, that the chip is meant to give off at max load.* So, in general, you can use this to determine relative heat output at stock settings.
Click to expand...

TDP is the heat that the stock cooler needs to dissipate when the chip has throttled,not max heat.
Intel use this value for TDP,my x5650's have a max draw of 197w @ full load un OC'd but the TDP is 95w. Intel used to publish the max and sustained load figures as well as TDP but this practice has stopped when people realized that the more often quoted TDP had no relation to the actual output but sounded better marketing wise.

AMD do rate their chips TDP as a max load figure which is why its always higher than Intel.

Nvidia rate the whole components power draw,so the 200w or what ever they quote is the whole card,not just the die.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> TDP is the heat that the stock cooler needs to dissipate when the chip has throttled,not max heat.
> Intel use this value for TDP,my x5650's have a max draw of 197w @ full load un OC'd but the TDP is 95w. Intel used to publish the max and sustained load figures as well as TDP but this practice has stopped when people realized that the more often quoted TDP had no relation to the actual output but sounded better marketing wise.
> 
> AMD do rate their chips TDP as a max load figure which is why its always higher than Intel.
> 
> Nvidia rate the whole components power draw,so the 200w or what ever they quote is the whole card,not just the die.


Power Draw =/= heat that needs dissipation. Some gets cycled through.

If you dig hard enough you can find the TDP rating for the actual dies on NVIDIA cards.

I always wondered why AMD's were so high. Huh. The new stock coolers are terrible. My 6800k at stock hits 85C instantly on prime blend.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> TDP is the heat that the stock cooler needs to dissipate when the chip has throttled,not max heat.
> Intel use this value for TDP,my x5650's have a max draw of 197w @ full load un OC'd but the TDP is 95w. Intel used to publish the max and sustained load figures as well as TDP but this practice has stopped when people realized that the more often quoted TDP had no relation to the actual output but sounded better marketing wise.
> 
> AMD do rate their chips TDP as a max load figure which is why its always higher than Intel.
> 
> Nvidia rate the whole components power draw,so the 200w or what ever they quote is the whole card,not just the die.
> 
> 
> 
> Power Draw =/= heat that needs dissipation. Some gets cycled through.
> 
> If you dig hard enough you can find the TDP rating for the actual dies on NVIDIA cards.
> 
> I always wondered why AMD's were so high. Huh. The new stock coolers are terrible. My 6800k at stock hits 85C instantly on prime blend.
Click to expand...

You miss the point,Intels TDP isnt what you think it is,its a throttled value,not the max powah! or sustained value. The only half decent way of assessing power draw for cooling requirements is a Kill-a-watt at the wall,using published numbers will lead to nasty surprises


----------



## ginger_nuts

So Intel's TDP is a bit like Coolermaster's fans stats


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What was the fan setup on the EK PE rad that you liked the performance on. I'm about to order an ST30 240, and XT45 360 that'll have one set of GT AP-00's on each of em. I was looking at those Coolstream PE's too, but I'm kinda assuming that they're too dense for one set of fans. Am I right?


I did a side to side compare of the ax480 and the PE using Cougar Vortex Fans and Corsair Fans in Push Pull. Just going be coolant temps the PE was able to dissipate 3~5 degrees better on the outlet than my AX. The the SPs provided 1~2 degrees better performance due to their higher speeds but the noise reminded me of my days working in data centers. Now that I'm getting a second PE I want to test the performance in single fan config to see how well they handle the heat of my GPUs with one string of fans instead of two.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, it sounds like I'm makin the right the call with an ST30 240 and XT45 360 with only enough room for a single set of fans. Thanx for that info =)


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You miss the point,Intels TDP isnt what you think it is,its a throttled value,not the max powah! or sustained value. The only half decent way of assessing power draw for cooling requirements is a Kill-a-watt at the wall,using published numbers will lead to nasty surprises


No, you missed my point. I said _relative_ heat. So intel's 95W chips are hotter than their 77W chips but cooler than their 130W chips.


----------



## iandroo888

so frozenCPU announced something about monsoon may be announcing a rigid tube line soon ! if it matches the design of the chainsaw... *drool*


----------



## VSG

Anyone know where Monsoon is located in Texas? A lot of similar companies are based in Houston and I would love to be able to see them in person if possible.


----------



## phillyd




----------



## lowfat

Those look awesome.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*


heh, go figure, i buy teh first primochill fittings, they release better ones literally the day before i get them. i put in my acrylic this weekend with ghetto measurements and terrible angles, then they have these haha. story of my life.


----------



## snef

some some pics of my WIP

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/update-16_zps2eb529ed.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/update-11_zps0c2b81d6.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/update-14_zps41240df5.jpg.html


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some some pics of my WIP
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/update-16_zps2eb529ed.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/update-11_zps0c2b81d6.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/update-14_zps41240df5.jpg.html


amazing work as usual. thumbs up


----------



## Lourad

Beautiful, just beautiful!


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> heh, go figure, i buy teh first primochill fittings, they release better ones literally the day before i get them. i put in my acrylic this weekend with ghetto measurements and terrible angles, then they have these haha. story of my life.


I just finished mine as well, I know how you feel. But look at the brite side, get them you know you will be redoing everything soon anyway!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Who do i have to speak to at Monsoon to get those?

Now,I must do this Now.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Who do i have to speak to at Monsoon to get those?
> 
> Now,I must do this Now.


They're coming...soon.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

any ideas on pricing?


----------



## cyphon

Great idea by monsoon!!

Also, snef, ridiculous as always! Can't wait to see that one finished


----------



## gdubc

I hope they make some chain gun fittings to go with their acrylic line....I love those things.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I hope they make some chain gun fittings to go with their acrylic line....I love those things.


Oooooooo, I hope so too! That would be pretty sick!


----------



## Anoxy

Something I haven't given much consideration until now, will a platinum 860 PSU be sufficient for a loop cooling 2x780s and a 3570k, both with moderate overclocks?


----------



## sndstream

My s5 rig in the works





Lotta work left but you know how that goes...


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Something I haven't given much consideration until now, will a platinum 860 PSU be sufficient for a loop cooling 2x780s and a 3570k, both with moderate overclocks?


I'm running sli 780's and a 3820 thats also overclocked and no probs on my corsair AX 860 (stock bios),however having said that if you are running a modded bios that can easily use up to 300-400 watts depending on the bios best to get a 1000 watt psu....


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sndstream*
> 
> My s5 rig in the works
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lotta work left but you know how that goes...


May I suggest covering up your motherboard standoffs w/ a bit of heatshrink. Otherwise it looks great.


----------



## sndstream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> May I suggest covering up your motherboard standoffs w/ a bit of heatshrink. Otherwise it looks great.


Yea man thats a great idea. I always like other input as you look @ your own build long enough you look right past things!


----------



## RussianJ

Time to redo the loop, new tube and switched to the AP-00s I've had sitting here since the group buy. Why did I not change out before? So much more airflow than my Yates at half the sound.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some some pics of my WIP
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh my God!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Oh my God!


He has pastel coolant to dyed to match the gold/yellow fans/sleeves....snef makes me so jelly with his builds


----------



## snef

some pics of the update

finished SSD and Himuro (Samsung Evo 1Tb)


----------



## Lourad

Love your builds Snef, pure eye candy!


----------



## djriful

Are those labels inkjet printed? Look for laser printer ...


----------



## Yakikuze

check out my worklog at http://www.overclock.net/t/1423648/magnusopus2-0-ft03mini-sff-mod-wc-rigid-tube/120


----------



## bundymania

I think BP should release 2-coloured fittings


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I know but...

IT FITS!



IT LIVES!



Very excited now!

Also...









Using both circuits of this one,bridging them with a flow meter/temp sensor for the AC XT.


----------



## snef

Nice, why off topic?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Nice, why off topic?


This the WC club,not the any hardware club,if it aint WC,its not on topic


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Okay, those look incredibly useful, and even better since it means no jigs to build/store ^_^


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This the WC club,not the any hardware club,if it aint WC,its not on topic


Ok, i will take it this way

This screen is for aquasuite, to control aquaero , to controll fan , to cool coolant in rad

This is water cooling related


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know but...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IT FITS!
> 
> 
> 
> IT LIVES!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very excited now!
> 
> Also...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using both circuits of this one,bridging them with a flow meter/temp sensor for the AC XT.


I see you're using a dual circuit rad, with the secondary circuit being only 6 of the 21 tubes, the functional equivalent of less than a single 120 rad, what are you planning to cool with it?

Seems that a single loop would be more efficient with that size rad.

Darlene


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Buildlog in sig (Sour Apple)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know but...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IT FITS!
> 
> 
> 
> IT LIVES!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very excited now!
> 
> Also...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using both circuits of this one,bridging them with a flow meter/temp sensor for the AC XT.
> 
> 
> 
> I see you're using a dual circuit rad, with the secondary circuit being only 6 of the 21 tubes, the functional equivalent of less than a single 120 rad, what are you planning to cool with it?
> 
> Seems that a single loop would be more efficient with that size rad.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Nothing,its part of the same loop,im bridging the 2 circuits with a flow meter and temp sensor. Got the rad at a really good price so i made use of its feature.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know but...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IT FITS!
> 
> 
> 
> IT LIVES!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very excited now!
> 
> Also...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using both circuits of this one,bridging them with a flow meter/temp sensor for the AC XT.
> 
> 
> 
> I see you're using a dual circuit rad, with the secondary circuit being only 6 of the 21 tubes, the functional equivalent of less than a single 120 rad, what are you planning to cool with it?
> 
> Seems that a single loop would be more efficient with that size rad.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nothing,its part of the same loop,im bridging the 2 circuits with a flow meter and temp sensor. Got the rad at a really good price so i made use of its feature.
Click to expand...

Nice way to take advantage of it.

It's really a shame that you can't buy the end caps separately, so that you could easily reconfigure if needed.

I bought two single circuit 240's to make a 480 so that I could get another pair of end caps to reconfigure one of the 840's back to single circuit.

The flow thru those rads is essentially top to bottom with airflow coming up from the bottom, but on the secondary circuit, it's essentially outside 3 tubes in, and next 3 tubes out.

The dual circuit makes 2 passes, where the single circuit actually makes 4, but uses a couple less tubes per pass.

Darlene


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quick question;
> 
> My better half is nagging me to clean up my excess amount of computer bits n pieces.
> 
> Just wondering how you people keep your bit n pieces organised?
> 
> Do you have 101 containers with specific bits (1 for barbs, 1 for clamps, 1 for tubing / pipe, 1 for pumps, 1 for rads etc etc) ?
> 
> Do you have everything just stuffed in with each other? case bits, fan bits, WC bits etc etc.






Using this for the most common used bits.


----------



## Topsu

Anyone here have z87-A or similiar gold colored asus z87 board?

I am curious what colors you have managed to fit it.


----------



## wermad

New gpu setup. CSQ, I can live with it












Got a CSQ quad bridge, just need to find the o-rings in the several baggies I got. Might pick up a clear bridge and polish out the frost later on


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New gpu setup. CSQ, I can live with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a CSQ quad bridge, just need to find the o-rings in the several baggies I got. Might pick up a clear bridge and polish out the frost later on


you get rid of the 780s? D:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> you get rid of the 780s? D:


Yup, going 5x1 Eyefinity with quad Lightnings







Monitors should be in by this week


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup, going 5x1 Eyefinity with quad Lightnings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monitors should be in by this week


oh my


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> oh my


Did you get your Hawaii on water?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did you get your Hawaii on water?


not yet lol, i finally got the 290x's out of the newegg box, but my progress stopped there for now.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New gpu setup. CSQ, I can live with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a CSQ quad bridge, just need to find the o-rings in the several baggies I got. Might pick up a clear bridge and polish out the frost later on


JEEEEZ haha nice wermad


----------



## iandroo888

send me a 780 that u are getting rid of T_T


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> not yet lol, i finally got the 290x's out of the newegg box, but my progress stopped there for now.


Lol. I got a ton of things to do as well. The desk top took up most of my time but the Lightnings arrived just yesterday. Only got a chance to test each in in some benchmarks on air. Needed some extra screws for the blocks (ordered from ebay already) but I manged a temporary setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> JEEEEZ haha nice wermad











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> send me a 780 that u are getting rid of T_T


All gone







.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Something I haven't given much consideration until now, will a platinum 860 PSU be sufficient for a loop cooling 2x780s and a 3570k, both with moderate overclocks?


I don't think it will have much problem powering two GPU's + CPU + pump, but I'd usually recommend going for the overkill. A 1000+W psu should keep everything running safely and very efficiently on top of that. Also, in OCN, you never have enough power.

(And the 1000+psu tier tend to have full modular cables, which makes sleeving MUCH easier.)

Personally, I'd move that wimpy psu to a domestic fileserver and go for something bigger.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New gpu setup. CSQ, I can live with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a CSQ quad bridge, just need to find the o-rings in the several baggies I got. Might pick up a clear bridge and polish out the frost later on


Noms....the never ending GPU cycles of wermad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Noms....the never ending GPU cycles of wermad.













Nice trade with my old setup which will allow me to go 6000x1920 Eyefinity


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice trade with my old setup which will allow me to go 6000x1920 Eyefinity


Gonna be sick!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice trade with my old setup which will allow me to go 6000x1920 Eyefinity


----------



## phillyd




----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*


When will you have these available?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*


Another great idea from monsoon! They are going to make things much easier on us lol


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice trade with my old setup which will allow me to go 6000x1920 Eyefinity


NiOce! Your monitors arrive?


----------



## MiiX

Does anyone know the measurements for the Aquacomputer D5 top? Would love to know theese:


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*


do you know when the 16mm hardline will come out? and realy nice tools


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*


I cracked.

Mail sent to Geno today......I dont like sending mails begging but this time its so worth it.


----------



## phillyd

*Info about Monsoon Hard Line Tubing and Accessories*
Estimated release date is in 3-4 weeks
More handy tools for bending and cutting such as a heat gun and deburrer for the rough cuts on tubing will come with it.
The current line of Monsoon fittings, both normal and Chain gun fittings will be adapted for the acrylic tubing. The external portion of the fittings will remain unchanged, so you can simply buy new barbs, which will be sold separately, if you already have monsoon fittings. If not, both kinds of fittings will be available individually for 10mm/13mm tubing and 13mm/16mm hard tubing

I will release more info about these as I get it.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Does anyone know the measurements for the Aquacomputer D5 top? Would love to know theese:


1). = 80mm
2). = 80mm
3). = 46mm










N.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Does anyone know the measurements for the Aquacomputer D5 top? Would love to know theese:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1). = 80mm
> 2). = 80mm
> 3). = 46mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.
Click to expand...

I can put my ruler away then.......

Bloody waited till my workbench was pulled out before you posted tho didnt you........*^$%


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can put my ruler away then.......
> 
> Bloody waited till my workbench was pulled out before you posted tho didnt you........*^$%


LMAO.. Sorry Neg... If only I'd known









Nam..


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> 1). = 80mm
> 2). = 80mm
> 3). = 46mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


Awesome, thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can put my ruler away then.......
> 
> Bloody waited till my workbench was pulled out before you posted tho didnt you........*^$%


Hahaha, so close!

Damned... 1 or 2 cannot be bigger than 76mm for me to be able to use it... Anyone know a D5 top that is that small?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> NiOce! Your monitors arrive?


5 th one arrives today and the 4 th tomorrow. Ups isn't as fast as usps this time around. Psu arrives today as well so I can fire up the quads under water.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Awesome, thanks!
> Hahaha, so close!
> 
> Damned... 1 or 2 cannot be bigger than 76mm for me to be able to use it... Anyone know a D5 top that is that small?


You can use the bitspower d5 mod top


----------



## MiiX

The top itself fits, but how big is the modkit/pump protection or whatever you call it? It seems like its going past the top itself judging from this:
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=79_80&products_id=1442

I also found this, but not sure if it fits yet: XSPC acrylic D5 tank, not sure if anyone ever tried this one or if there is a "do not use this" tag on it somewhere, but from what I manage to find on the web is so far good, except for a bleeding problem. I would have to use the top as an inlet if I use this one tho, but I don't think that it would be a problem?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> *Info about Monsoon Hard Line Tubing and Accessories*
> Estimated release date is in 3-4 weeks
> More handy tools for bending and cutting such as a heat gun and deburrer for the rough cuts on tubing will come with it.
> The current line of Monsoon fittings, both normal and Chain gun fittings will be adapted for the acrylic tubing. The external portion of the fittings will remain unchanged, so you can simply buy new barbs, which will be sold separately, if you already have monsoon fittings. If not, both kinds of fittings will be available individually for 10mm/13mm tubing and 13mm/16mm hard tubing
> 
> I will release more info about these as I get it.


Monsoon fittings are sexy as they are but... making a set cosmetically unchanged for hard acrylic, there's only one thing to say


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> The top itself fits, but how big is the modkit/pump protection or whatever you call it? It seems like its going past the top itself judging from this:
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=79_80&products_id=1442
> 
> I also found this, but not sure if it fits yet: XSPC acrylic D5 tank, not sure if anyone ever tried this one or if there is a "do not use this" tag on it somewhere, but from what I manage to find on the web is so far good, except for a bleeding problem. I would have to use the top as an inlet if I use this one tho, but I don't think that it would be a problem?


yea with the cover its about 80 to, maby you should buy a ddc?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> *Info about Monsoon Hard Line Tubing and Accessories*
> Estimated release date is in 3-4 weeks
> More handy tools for bending and cutting such as a heat gun and deburrer for the rough cuts on tubing will come with it.
> The current line of Monsoon fittings, both normal and Chain gun fittings will be adapted for the acrylic tubing. The external portion of the fittings will remain unchanged, so you can simply buy new barbs, which will be sold separately, if you already have monsoon fittings. If not, both kinds of fittings will be available individually for 10mm/13mm tubing and 13mm/16mm hard tubing
> 
> I will release more info about these as I get it.


TAKE MY KIDNEY ! =X jk yes ! they are putting it in the acrylic line ! woooo


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*


So uh what am I looking at here?


----------



## McMogg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So uh what am I looking at here?


A jig to use a hacksaw or other type of cutter to cut Acrylic tubing perfectly.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So uh what am I looking at here?


Looks like you'd lay tube in it and use the slit as the cut placement.


----------



## LunaP

So shopping for WC parts currently for a Caselabs I'm getting. Wanted to get some feed back from you guys. Looking for CPU/GPU blocks w/ lighting so these were some of the top rated I could find thus far.

Still deciding on tubing size so can't put my fittings up till I do but will most likely go w/ bitspower.

Tubing - Primochill advanced lrt CLEAR
Pump D5 - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14767/ex-pmp-172/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Pump_Mod_Kit_Mod_Top_V2_w_Swiftech_PWM_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s1802#blank (black sparkle)
CPU Block XSPC Raystorm - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32331:a69ccac75a70610a600b730143ea1beb
GPU Block XSPC Razor - http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-gtx-titan-780

Case will be either a caselabs MH10 or TH10

Either multiple Titans or multiple 780Ti's depending on if they release a 4+ gb version ( special ) Currently own 1 titan so just waiting another week to see how things go.

Anywhoo feed back appreciated on selected gear!


----------



## VSG

I would shop around for that pump, seems a bit excessively priced.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> *Info about Monsoon Hard Line Tubing and Accessories*
> Estimated release date is in 3-4 weeks
> More handy tools for bending and cutting such as a heat gun and deburrer for the rough cuts on tubing will come with it.
> The current line of Monsoon fittings, both normal and Chain gun fittings will be adapted for the acrylic tubing. The external portion of the fittings will remain unchanged, so you can simply buy new barbs, which will be sold separately, if you already have monsoon fittings. If not, both kinds of fittings will be available individually for 10mm/13mm tubing and 13mm/16mm hard tubing
> 
> I will release more info about these as I get it.


CHaingun acrylic fittings?!?!?! WANT!!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> CHaingun acrylic fittings?!?!?! WANT!!


I agree! Chaingun fittings PLUS 16mm acrylic hardline tubing? This is going to get interesting very quickly...


----------



## smoke420

Hi all, I'm running a bunch of swiftech qp rads and need to replace 12 2000 rpm cooler master fans. I tried a fan controller but they make more noise undervolted then at full speed. I'm looking for quiet and cheap. Are yate loon fans still good?


----------



## soul801

Took a better picture of my rig.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Nice one Soul, but why put the drain on your gpu? Changing your card out a lot?

Didn't someone post pictures of those Monsoon fittings???


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Took a better picture of my rig.


That really is an eye candy
Where can I see more picture of it?


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> That really is an eye candy
> Where can I see more picture of it?


^^^^^This


----------



## soul801

I was going to put the drain off of the pump but did not have room. Also the fittings are Rigid Compression from PrimoChilll. I have seen the Monsoon fittings and they look good.


----------



## cyphon

Finally done with my build I have been working on (Crowbar). It is an AMD build (Crosshair V Formula-Z, FX-8350, and 3x 7950). All EK blocks, primochill acrylic/fittings, w/ Mayhems Pastel, Swiftech DDCs, XSPC Dual bay res, black ice and aquacomputer rads, Fractal Arc Midi R2 case, and AP-15s foir fans.

Full details and more pics in the build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar

Enough talk, time for the pics:


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> I was going to put the drain off of the pump but did not have room. Also the fittings are Rigid Compression from PrimoChilll. I have seen the Monsoon fittings and they look good.


You've seen the monsoon rigid?
I'm planning to update my rig soon and hoping monsoon would be the right choice, I've heard a few bad complains with primochill

any chance you can tell me where I can see one of that monsoon rigid pictures?


----------



## NewHighScore

Man all this rigid acrylic is making me want to custom loop my PC again.......

but then I'd have to change my gpu's..... and at that point I minus whale go down to mITX.







Whole system revamp? I don't think the wife would be happy hahaha.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Didn't someone post pictures of those Monsoon fittings???


I saw pics of their new acrylic tools in here, i haven't seen the fittings.

Edit: Damn Cyphon, that thing's a work of art. Well Done!!!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Man all this rigid acrylic is making me want to custom loop my PC again.......
> 
> but then I'd have to change my gpu's..... and at that point I minus whale go down to mITX.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whole system revamp? I don't think the wife would be happy hahaha.


Isnt your 670 is still strong enough?

I'm planning to redo my rig but keep all the major components
reckon my CPU which run at 4.8ghz and 670 sli OCed would still be able to compete and run most of my games at 1440p at max with no hastle
I'm getting caselabs UH YEAH!

edit: with rigid tubing of coure


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> I was going to put the drain off of the pump but did not have room. Also the fittings are Rigid Compression from PrimoChilll. I have seen the Monsoon fittings and they look good.


Ah! Still looks killer!
Yeah that 16mm tubing is got me wanting to tear my build apart already... Haven't even got windows installed and already looking to re-do the plumbing.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Finally done with my build I have been working on (Crowbar). It is an AMD build (Crosshair V Formula-Z, FX-8350, and 3x 7950). All EK blocks, primochill acrylic/fittings, w/ Mayhems Pastel, Swiftech DDCs, XSPC Dual bay res, black ice and aquacomputer rads, Fractal Arc Midi R2 case, and AP-15s foir fans.
> 
> Full details and more pics in the build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar
> 
> Enough talk, time for the pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Words can't describe how wonderful this is, I am a huge HL nutcase too!


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> That really is an eye candy
> Where can I see more picture of it?


I like this board. Reminds me of the good ol' Bloodrage









Nice job!


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Finally done with my build I have been working on (Crowbar). It is an AMD build (Crosshair V Formula-Z, FX-8350, and 3x 7950). All EK blocks, primochill acrylic/fittings, w/ Mayhems Pastel, Swiftech DDCs, XSPC Dual bay res, black ice and aquacomputer rads, Fractal Arc Midi R2 case, and AP-15s foir fans.
> 
> Full details and more pics in the build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar
> 
> Enough talk, time for the pics:


I died.


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> You've seen the monsoon rigid?
> I'm planning to update my rig soon and hoping monsoon would be the right choice, I've heard a few bad complains with primochill
> 
> any chance you can tell me where I can see one of that monsoon rigid pictures?


Sorry was thinking about the EK Fittings.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Finally done with my build I have been working on (Crowbar). It is an AMD build (Crosshair V Formula-Z, FX-8350, and 3x 7950). All EK blocks, primochill acrylic/fittings, w/ Mayhems Pastel, Swiftech DDCs, XSPC Dual bay res, black ice and aquacomputer rads, Fractal Arc Midi R2 case, and AP-15s foir fans.
> 
> Full details and more pics in the build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar
> 
> Enough talk, time for the pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip


Not a HL guy, and I'm not a fan of some of the angles, but the color choice and implementation is sick. The fade in the pipe is just spot on. Great job!


----------



## kpoeticg

I think the bends are great, considering he named his build "Crowbar"


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Isnt your 670 is still strong enough?
> 
> I'm planning to redo my rig but keep all the major components
> reckon my CPU which run at 4.8ghz and 670 sli OCed would still be able to compete and run most of my games at 1440p at max with no hastle
> I'm getting caselabs UH YEAH!
> 
> edit: with rigid tubing of coure


I'm on 760 Hawk SLI now. Pretty overkill for SC2 but I'm a sucker for aesthetics. I don't think they make waterblocks for these guys. Plus my case is not equipped for water cooling.

Still really tempted to do a complete revamp tho and step it down to a mITX water cooled with a 290x or 780 ti...... and rigid tubing of course.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I died.


Don't die too fast, I died too. Can you get a second hole dug? Because that rig is _killah!_

Couldn't help myself









-Zepp


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Don't die too fast, I died too. Can you get a second hole dug? Because that rig is _killah!_
> 
> Couldn't help myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


My hole is pretty big. No need for another


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> My hole is pretty big. No need for another


INB4 "That's what she said"










sorry had too..


----------



## LiquidHaus

still waiting on the 480 monsta at the end of the week but she's up and running in the mean time








after that it's a few aesthetics left, aquaero 6 a bit later in the month and updating all the fans to NB eloops.


----------



## Captivate

WIP


----------



## Plutonium10

Heads up, Watercool has R9 290X blocks up on their website but no pictures yet. There is also an acrylic version, which is unusual for Heatkiller blocks.

EDIT: Link here.

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15031


----------



## derickwm

Seems everyone is going acrylic this go around


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Seems everyone is going acrylic this go around


if only i had the money to afford the blocks first =X been drooling over the EK-FB KIT RE4 - Nickel + Acetal CSQ or EK-FB KIT RE4 - Nickel CSQ for months


----------



## Jakusonfire

'In stock' but no pictures? I'll be very interested to see how they implement a VRM bridge on the Acrylic block.


----------



## McMogg

I wish more fullcover blocks were made..
I don't have the money for a GA-Z87X-OC-Force.. but I want the Orange and black colour scheme whilst being full watercooled


----------



## phillyd

I feel like I should re-state all the info that I have about the new Monsoon Hardline, as there sems to be some confusion.

There will be the acrylic tubing, tools/accessories, and fittings.
The tubing will come in 2 sizes, 10mm ID 13mm OD (3/8" ID 1/2" OD) and 13mm ID 16mm OD (1/2" ID, 5/8" OD)
The tools/accessories will include mandrels, a heat gun, gloves, cutting guides, a deburrer and possibly more. The Mandrels will guide you in getting perfect bends. There will be a 4 mandrels for each tubing size, at the angles of 45, 90, 180 and 360 degrees. the 360 mandrel is well labeled to help get the exact angle you want. They include mounting holes and brackets to allow you to mount the mandrels solidly to a work bench.
The fittings will consist of new barbs that work with the old exterior portions of the fittings. That means that if you have monsoon fittings with either 1/2:" (13mm) OD or 5/8" (16mm) OD, you can simply buy the new barbs and convert to acrylic tubing. This also means that both the normal fittings and the chaingun fittings will be usable for acrylic ,

More info will come out in the coming weeks, and the release of all products should occur in 3-4 weeks.


----------



## Maximus Knight

I'm thinking of the V Extreme full cover but is it worth cooling ur board..?


----------



## Majentrix

Here's mine!

Using an XSPC Raystorm AX240 kit in my HAF XB.
Spent five hours installing this thing, then 12 hours of overnight leak-testing and it's working perfectly!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I'm thinking of the V Extreme full cover but is it worth cooling ur board..?


Always


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Always


With all due respect but how does that help with say overclocking..? The heat output is 40-50c..?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Always
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all due respect but how does that help with say overclocking..? The heat output is 40-50c..?
Click to expand...

It doesnt,mobo blocks are purely bling only unless you have something with dire cooling...SR2 being on that list....


----------



## derickwm

Yes but your epeen will be over 9000


----------



## jokrik

I'm planning to take off my mosfet WB and GPU WB for major cleaning, I'm afraid that I would tear some of the thermal pad
can someone point out what kind of thermal pad is good for replacement?
I see alot of different thickness, can I just stick to one thickness?
also planning to paint my RAM cover, would it be fine to use the same pad as the one on the blocks?

Edit: Found it


----------



## JottaD

just a small detail of my Build log

24 pin MDPC Cable Sleeving


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes but your epeen will be over 9000


lol!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> just a small detail of my Build log
> 
> 24 pin MDPC Cable Sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> *


Wrong thread,watercooling only please.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wrong thread,watercooling only please.


I can clearly see the watercooling in those pics


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I can clearly see the watercooling in those pics


Same


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well,had a bit of a result,Monsoon are sending me a Pro-kit for acrylic tube and some more info in what to expect from them
Quote:


> The Pro Benders Kit is really four distinct tool kits all in one big box so that virtually everything a builder needs is included.
> 
> There is a special Layout and Planning tool kit that has a very simple to use yet accurate center line plotting and measurement system. The Mandrels themselves also have center line capabilities built in so the layout and planning tools mesh seamlessly with the Mandrels. All hardware and screws are included.
> The mandrels are machined from solid aluminum, polished, anodized, and laser etched for maximum durability and surface quality on tube contact surfaces. They feature relevant degrees etched on in 1 degree increments. As previously mentioned they also have center line capabilities built in, and the 45, 90, and 180 all feature extended support legs. This makes sure the tube is not only easily held at the exact angle, but is also held exactly "on plane" with zero deformation or twist etc.. They also feature dual pass through holes for M4 (over sized for fine adjustment) that allow for flat mounting on your bending board. Also included are metal 90 degree clips that allow the mandrels to be mounted upright (perpendicular) to your building board so that builders can easily bend and fixture in two or more directions AND on two or more planes at the same time.
> The cutting kit features a miter box (I am including an image below for you--you can post if you like), the saw with extra blades, and a combination inner/outer reamer to clean up the edges after a cut. The miter box is also designed to work within the center line system making locating cuts exactly where you need them very easy.
> The heat gun kit includes a dual setting heat gun, diffuser, and cotton gloves for handling hot tube.
> 
> All screws, clips, and other hardware are included--all a builder needs to add is a 24" x 24" x 1/2" particle board work surface--typically available at big box home improvement stores for $7 - $10.


There are some very cool things being done behind the scenes as well,which im keen to share but its something for someone else to announce

All i can say is that it is an exciting time for Hardliners soon!

When it arrives,pics will be forthcoming in abundance.


----------



## steelkevin

Hi,

I'm going to return my Asus DCT2 R9 280X to get a random R9 290 because they only cost 350€ here compared to the 50 my 280X cost me. I didn't feel quite comftable getting an old card instead of the new ones but was convinced the R9 290s would cost 400-450€ if not even more (at the time of my order the R9 290X had no price tags). And moving to a 290 instead of keeping the 280X means I won't have to wait for the waterblock to finally be available too







.

Just need some info before though.
Everybody knows both the R9 290X and R9 290 run really hot.
I need to know what temperature people having equipped either of those cards with waterblocks are getting. I'm a bit worried the cards may really run hot and the reference AMD cooler may not be the only cause of such high temperatures.

Thanks in advance







.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Ready to put some coolant in this. Getting my GTX 770 block this week.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Cor...pictures/20130520_155152_zpsc64a0265.jpg.html


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Hi,
> Just need some info before though.
> Everybody knows both the R9 290X and R9 290 run really hot.
> I need to know what temperature people having equipped either of those cards with waterblocks are getting. I'm a bit worried the cards may really run hot and the reference AMD cooler may not be the only cause of such high temperatures.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I am curious about this as well. A water cooled 290 ends up being about the same price as an air-cooled 290X (when adding it into an existing loop) and will no doubt perform better and be so much quieter/cooler. It is a very tempting card.


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone know what the difference is between the Bitspower compression fittings model ending in CC5 and CC5V2?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Ready to put some coolant in this. Getting my GTX 770 block this week.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Cor...pictures/20130520_155152_zpsc64a0265.jpg.html


Is that a 990FXA-UD3 ? If so, where on this earth did you get the blocks ? Would you consider selling ?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Ready to put some coolant in this. Getting my GTX 770 block this week.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Cor...pictures/20130520_155152_zpsc64a0265.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a 990FXA-UD3 ? If so, where on this earth did you get the blocks ? Would you consider selling ?
Click to expand...

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109820209

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27632


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is that a 990FXA-UD3 ? If so, where on this earth did you get the blocks ? Would you consider selling ?


Yes it is a 990fxa-ud3. I got them from EKWB website. When i ordered them they said they had to be made at the time. So i waited almost a month.


----------



## Ragsters

Can anyone recommend me a tube cutter or are scissors ok?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can anyone recommend me a tube cutter or are scissors ok?


Some people use tube cutters but if you have half a brain you can get a nice straight cut with some heavy duty scissors. I never had a problem using my kitchen scissors.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Some people use tube cutters but if you have half a brain you can get a nice straight cut with some heavy duty scissors. I never had a problem using my kitchen scissors.


I just gave my nice pair of scissors to my wife for her craft hobby so... What do you think about these from Lowes?


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I just gave my nice pair of scissors to my wife for her craft hobby so... What do you think about these from Lowes?


If youve got to buy something buy a set if tube cutters. They are actually very nice you have and you won't regret it. Your link doesn't work btw.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> If youve got to buy something buy a set if tube cutters. They are actually very nice you have and you won't regret it. Your link doesn't work btw.


Yes. What I linked is a tube cutter. Does the link work now?


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> If youve got to buy something buy a set if tube cutters. They are actually very nice you have and you won't regret it. Your link doesn't work btw.


The link works for me, takes you to Lowe's.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Yes. What I linked is a tube cutter. Does the link work now?


Works now. Those look like they would work great.


----------



## LunaP

Anyone recommend a 280mm RAD that has Egress and ingress water channels on opposite sides?


----------



## kpoeticg

You mean a crossflow rad? Or what UT60's and Monsta's have with the De-airation port on the end tank?

I think you mean crossflow. Only problem with crossflow is you only get half the cooling surface out of the rad cuz the water doesn't get to loop back around the water channels.


----------



## Anoxy

gahhh, drop 1000 bucks on watercooling my computer or buy a ps4.


----------



## kpoeticg

Watercooling. If you have a nice watercooled rig, you don't need a PS4


----------



## SeeThruHead

The savings buying games on steam will make up the difference in watercooling over the next couple years.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109820209
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27632


Cheers for that, I know I should of went EK









The biggest question is; Is cooling my motherboard worth approx. $150AUD? Plus then I would have EK mixed with Alphacool


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Cheers for that, I know I should of went EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest question is; Is cooling my motherboard worth approx. $150AUD? Plus then I would have EK mixed with Alphacool


Cooling mosfet is all about aesthetic, unless you do 5ghz+ OC on the CPU
but again if its too much tubing going around, you might ruin the aesthetic


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You mean a crossflow rad? Or what UT60's and Monsta's have with the De-airation port on the end tank?
> 
> I think you mean crossflow. Only problem with crossflow is you only get half the cooling surface out of the rad cuz the water doesn't get to loop back around the water channels.


Now why would they make a rad like that. A genuine crossflow rad just has all water channels going the same way rather than half each way.

The same areas is used.


----------



## kpoeticg

No, Crossflow rads are single pass instead of dual pass like most rads

So yeah, it has the same amount of cooling area, but it doesn't give you the same cooling


----------



## Jakusonfire

You are missing the point I think.

Single Pass means exactly as I said ... all the water tubes flowing one way ... so water has to enter one end and exit the other of the rad.
Duall pass or U flow means half the tubes flowing one way and half back ... so water enters and exits at the same end of the rad.

Th tubes exposed to airflow are identical.
In 240 U flow for example its say 6 x 240 tubes up and 6 x 240 tubes back.
In x flow its just 12 x 240 tubes one way.

The water spends exactly the same time inside the rad.

Nothing is halved except maybe the flow restriction for a slightly higher overall flow rate in a loop for the same pressure.


----------



## kpoeticg

Hrmmm, pretty sure dual pass means the water hits every channel twice. Otherwise a Crossflow rad would have the same cooling potential as a Dual Pass. Which they don't.

Maybe i have my facts mixed up. I just learned that about Crossflow not long ago, in this thread. So i'm not an expert.


----------



## kizwan

Interesting. I wonder whether the design is similar to car radiator design.

single pass


dual pass


Also I read the reduced water velocity in single pass radiator is what make it less efficient than dual pass radiator. If I'm not mistaken the difference between them only a couple of degrees.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You are missing the point I think.
> 
> Single Pass means exactly as I said ... all the water tubes flowing one way ... so water has to enter one end and exit the other of the rad.
> Duall pass or U flow means half the tubes flowing one way and half back ... so water enters and exits at the same end of the rad.
> 
> Th tubes exposed to airflow are identical.
> In 240 U flow for example its say 6 x 240 tubes up and 6 x 240 tubes back.
> In x flow its just 12 x 240 tubes one way.
> 
> The water spends exactly the same time inside the rad.
> 
> *Nothing is halved except maybe the flow restriction for a slightly higher overall flow rate in a loop for the same pressure*.


And this is probably the answer to why single pass rads typically have _slightly_ poorer results to their dual pass counterpart.

With a lower restriction, the flow rate with an otherwise identical setup and pump speed, is going to be greater.

This in turn means a little less dwell time in the rad, so there's just a little less time for heat transfer to occur.

I doubt that the 1 or 2C difference is enough to worry about, against the improved aesthetics if it allows for a much cleaner tube routing.

Darlene


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And this is probably the answer to why single pass rads typically have _slightly_ poorer results to their dual pass counterpart.
> 
> With a lower restriction, the flow rate with an otherwise identical setup and pump speed, is going to be greater.
> 
> This in turn means a little less dwell time in the rad, so there's just a little less time for heat transfer to occur.
> 
> I doubt that the 1 or 2C difference is enough to worry about, against the improved aesthetics if it allows for a much cleaner tube routing.
> 
> Darlene


I didn't think dwell time mattered. The less restrictive rad would increase flow rate to compensate. I had thought that because most single pass rads on the market are merely conversions of dual pass radiators, that water velocity through the radiator is halved when compared to its dual pass variant. That would make the single pass less efficient at equal flow rates due to a loss of turbulence in the water channels. I would expect a single pass radiator with twice as many channels at half the channel size of its dual pass counterpart would be a better comparison. Unless there's something I'm not understanding.


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx Diva and Jacksonfire for explaining that. I hate when i understand things wrong. I wuz under the impression it halved the surface area pretty much.


----------



## phillyd

Hand pruners used in gardens work awesomely for tube cutting.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Watercooling. If you have a nice watercooled rig, you don't need a PS4


Yeah it's just the PS4 exclusives and multiplayer community that I'll be missing out on =/

To keep it on topic though, are VGA backplates mostly for aesthetic purposes or do they help with temps at all? Worth cutting $60 off my shopping cart if I'm not super concerned about their looks?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I didn't think dwell time mattered. The less restrictive rad would increase flow rate to compensate. I had thought that because most single pass rads on the market are merely conversions of dual pass radiators, that water velocity through the radiator is halved when compared to its dual pass variant. That would make the single pass less efficient at equal flow rates due to a loss of turbulence in the water channels. I would expect a single pass radiator with twice as many channels at half the channel size of its dual pass counterpart would be a better comparison. Unless there's something I'm not understanding.


Time in the rad is important, which is why dual and quad pass radiators exist and why they provide slightly better cooling. The time in contact with the water gives more opportunity for the heat to move from water to fins and get pushed out.

As Darlene said, in PCs the difference between a radiator that is single or dual pass (talking same surface areas and fin densities) will be perhaps a 1-2 degree difference at the worst. And often times, you can get cleaner or more possible routes from using the single pass.

So, I say, use whatever is going to fit best in your case with your routing plans and what you think will look best.


----------



## wermad

Slightly new setup to run this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Anoxy

Damn, that's a beast of a set-up. Any vids gaming at that resolution?

Also, I keep seeing people say you shouldn't use coolant dyes, but at the same time so many people post photos with their coolant dyed! Haha, so is it a no no, or not?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah it's just the PS4 exclusives and multiplayer community that I'll be missing out on =/
> 
> To keep it on topic though, are VGA backplates mostly for aesthetic purposes or do they help with temps at all? Worth cutting $60 off my shopping cart if I'm not super concerned about their looks?


They are mostly for looks. I think the bigger cards get some more cooling benefits out of them than others, but in general they aren't really needed


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Damn, that's a beast of a set-up. Any vids gaming at that resolution?
> 
> Also, I keep seeing people say you shouldn't use coolant dyes, but at the same time so many people post photos with their coolant dyed! Haha, so is it a no no, or not?


Not yet, i have to wrap up the last details before any gaming is done.

You can run dyes and liquids w/ color just make sure you're not running into any warranty voiding issues w/ your components. I've ran Mayhems dyes for a while and this is my first Mayhems pastel. I like it and its very eye catching







.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Time in the rad is important, which is why dual and quad pass radiators exist and why they provide slightly better cooling. The time in contact with the water gives more opportunity for the heat to move from water to fins and get pushed out.
> 
> As Darlene said, in PCs the difference between a radiator that is single or dual pass (talking same surface areas and fin densities) will be perhaps a 1-2 degree difference at the worst. And often times, you can get cleaner or more possible routes from using the single pass.
> 
> So, I say, use whatever is going to fit best in your case with your routing plans and what you think will look best.


I understand that water time in the rad is important, but a single pass rad cools twice the amount of water for 1/2 the time of its dual pass counterpart. Volume of water spent in the radiator over time should be close should it not. I realize that there is no meaningful difference between single and dual pass for most people I'm just trying to understand the physics.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I understand that water time in the rad is important, but a single pass rad cools twice the amount of water for 1/2 the time of its dual pass counterpart. Volume of water spent in the radiator over time should be close should it not. I realize that there is no meaningful difference between single and dual pass for most people I'm just trying to understand the physics.


I miss-worded my previous post a bit, so time to correct and clear it up and give you some examples









Think of cooling as not a single cycle, but rather as a lifetime of constant recycling. One cycle doesn't help cooling much at all, as the constant pass is what does.

So, you have to look at what has the best velocity, as that gives a better thermal performance. The surface area covered in a single pass vs a dual pass is the same, however, since a single pass is more parallel channels, the fluid velocity over each is slower. Effectively through the single pass rad, the velocity is roughly half what it is in the dual pass (12 parallel tubes in single pass vs 6 parallel tubes in the dual). So, the faster velocity through the dual pass gives it more cooling capacity.

Take a couple hypothetical rads, one of each single and dual pass:

At the beginning of each rad, you get 200W dissipation with 1500RPM fans, with a 10C delta
The x-flow rad, at the end has half that, so 5C delta, which is 100W dissipation
The dual pass has a greater fluid velocity and at the end has more around 8C delta

The average heat dissipation in the x-flow is 150W
The average heat dissipation in the dual pass is 180W

It really comes down to the water velocity. It is worth noting that the x-flow has less restriction, however, since the blocks are more restrictive than the rads, it really won't matter too much.

so, it is a minimal performance increase to use dual pass over single pass. So, use dual pass unless your loop needs a single pass for routing or asthetics


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for the detailed explanation


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I miss-worded my previous post a bit, so time to correct and clear it up and give you some examples
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think of cooling as not a single cycle, but rather as a lifetime of constant recycling. One cycle doesn't help cooling much at all, as the constant pass is what does.
> 
> So, you have to look at what has the best velocity, as that gives a better thermal performance. The surface area covered in a single pass vs a dual pass is the same, however, since a single pass is more parallel channels, the fluid velocity over each is slower. Effectively through the single pass rad, the velocity is roughly half what it is in the dual pass (12 parallel tubes in single pass vs 6 parallel tubes in the dual). So, the faster velocity through the dual pass gives it more cooling capacity.
> 
> Take a couple hypothetical rads, one of each single and dual pass:
> 
> At the beginning of each rad, you get 200W dissipation with 1500RPM fans, with a 10C delta
> The x-flow rad, at the end has half that, so 5C delta, which is 100W dissipation
> The dual pass has a greater fluid velocity and at the end has more around 8C delta
> 
> The average heat dissipation in the x-flow is 150W
> The average heat dissipation in the dual pass is 180W
> 
> It really comes down to the water velocity. It is worth noting that the x-flow has less restriction, however, since the blocks are more restrictive than the rads, it really won't matter too much.
> 
> so, it is a minimal performance increase to use dual pass over single pass. So, use dual pass unless your loop needs a single pass for routing or asthetics


Thanks. That's basically what I thought to be the case though I may have had trouble articulating it.


----------



## cyphon

Also, meant to mention that I saw some tests with the BlackIce rads (cannot seem to find now







), but I think the dual pass on those had a whopping 5W better dissipation(170W for the single and 175W for the dual), lol.

So, again, at most you will see a degree or so (probably less) difference in similar rads (surface area, FPI)


----------



## Anoxy

So if I plan to use Mayhems pastel coolant concentrate, I don't need to worry about a silver kill coil?


----------



## MR-e

^that's right, it already contains anti corrosive/algae properties.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Damn, that's a beast of a set-up. Any vids gaming at that resolution?
> 
> Also, I keep seeing people say you shouldn't use coolant dyes, but at the same time so many people post photos with their coolant dyed! Haha, so is it a no no, or not?


This! Great question. What's the deal guys?

I want clear tubing with red coolant. What are my options? I don't want any gunk building up in my loop either.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> This! Great question. What's the deal guys?
> 
> I want clear tubing with red coolant. What are my options? I don't want any gunk building up in my loop either.


It all depends on which one you buy. Some dyed coolants have a very nasty habit of settling out and gunking up your loop, but there are, I suppose you could say, "OCN approved" coolants that won't give you this issue. I believe Mayhem pastels are fine, but I've only ever used distilled water.


----------



## Anoxy

XSPC Photon 170 w/ D5 Vario
EK D5 X-RES Top 140 w/ D5 Vario
Deciding between these two reservoir/pump combos. I like the XSPC photon the most, but I'm not sure where or how it gets mounted in my case (Fractal Arc Midi R2). Anyone explain?


----------



## Lourad

It's like anything else in this world, people will always disagree.
I say try what you want premix, dye, distilled water. Find out what side of the fence you fall on by yourself.
With that said it never hurts to find out what problems people are having with a certain product, keep in mind that doesn't mean you can't find another just like but works better!


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> XSPC Photon 170 w/ D5 Vario
> EK D5 X-RES Top 140 w/ D5 Vario
> Deciding between these two reservoir/pump combos. I like the XSPC photon the most, but I'm not sure where or how it gets mounted in my case (Fractal Arc Midi R2). Anyone explain?


Wow! I didn't even know those existed! (I'm new to water cooling)

Would you guys recommend a reservoir/pump combo kit like the ones above over a separate reservoir and pump?


----------



## VSG

I personally will have a valve in between the reservoir and pump so as to not have to empty my huge res (400mm) if I need to drain my loop. Other than that, and possibly aesthetics of mounting, I don't see why a combo can't be used.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Water velocity isnt the reason dual pass perform better,the dual pass extends the transit path of the fluid and,because the U shape,it allows the air cool all the way without the air getting prewarmed by the rows in front.

Think of it like this,take the dual pass flow path and unfold it,even tho its half the width,its double the length. The length will show a greater temp drop as the transit time is increased in the dissipation area and less skewing from heat transfer from the preceding rows. This is how the AMS rad can perform like normal rads even with the disadvantages of round tubes and alu fins.
This is my understanding of it.

I'm posting from my phone,I can explain it better with pics


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Wow! I didn't even know those existed! (I'm new to water cooling)
> 
> Would you guys recommend a reservoir/pump combo kit like the ones above over a separate reservoir and pump?


Res/pump combo looks very clean and can be a tiny bit cheaper (as well as saving on a couple of fittings). Also performance can be slightly higher (most custom loops don't suffer in the performance department though







).
The seperate option gives you more choice and flexibility.


----------



## Anoxy

Does anyone know how that XSPC Photon mounts? Will I have to drill holes through my case?

edit: sorry, I guessed I miss this when I was googling: http://www.thinkcomputers.org/xspc-photon-270-tube-reservoir-review/3/

I just have no idea where it would go in my Arc Midi


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> This! Great question. What's the deal guys?
> 
> I want clear tubing with red coolant. What are my options? I don't want any gunk building up in my loop either.


Do you want transparent or opaque fluid? What shade of red? UV reactive or not?

Most of the 'gunk of the loop' problems were plasticizer from the tube and not actually the dyes. The dyes just make the stuff making it show up more. Now staining, that is another story. In particular, red dyes (especially UV) will stain the worst. If you go with a nano fluid (say pastel), then those don't stain unless you add additional dye.


----------



## Bloitz

Just to give you nightmares about plasticizer and dye, a picture when I cleaned my CPU-block I got second-hand :


Yea, have a good night's sleep









EDIT: This is from a long time ago BTW http://www.overclock.net/t/1116233/cleaning-cpu-block-gone-awry
Anxious to see how it will look next time I open her up.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> XSPC Photon 170 w/ D5 Vario
> EK D5 X-RES Top 140 w/ D5 Vario
> Deciding between these two reservoir/pump combos. I like the XSPC photon the most, but I'm not sure where or how it gets mounted in my case (Fractal Arc Midi R2). Anyone explain?


I got the EK X-Res to put in my Midi R2, I plan to mount it on the bottom in front of the PSU. There are already screw holes there for the alternate mounting on the HDD cage so hopefully no drilling required. Guess I'll find out this weekend though.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Do you want transparent or opaque fluid? What shade of red? UV reactive or not?
> 
> Most of the 'gunk of the loop' problems were plasticizer from the tube and not actually the dyes. The dyes just make the stuff making it show up more. Now staining, that is another story. In particular, red dyes (especially UV) will stain the worst. If you go with a nano fluid (say pastel), then those don't stain unless you add additional dye.


Not really sure. My build is mainly going to be a black/red theme. I'm using an Asus Maximus VI Formula as well. So not really sure, but I definitely want red fluid. No need to be UV reactive.

What are your thoughts on this tubing and dye?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17886/ex-tub-1619/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_12_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-12-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?tl=g30c99s171#blank

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17708/ex-liq-285/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Red.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Just to give you nightmares about plasticizer and dye, a picture when I cleaned my CPU-block I got second-hand :
> 
> 
> Yea, have a good night's sleep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: This is from a long time ago BTW http://www.overclock.net/t/1116233/cleaning-cpu-block-gone-awry
> Anxious to see how it will look next time I open her up.


Gee, thanks! lol


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Do you want transparent or opaque fluid? What shade of red? UV reactive or not?
> 
> Most of the 'gunk of the loop' problems were plasticizer from the tube and not actually the dyes. The dyes just make the stuff making it show up more. Now staining, that is another story. In particular, red dyes (especially UV) will stain the worst. If you go with a nano fluid (say pastel), then those don't stain unless you add additional dye.


Yeah, I think I'm gonna start out with distilled water only since it's my first time. I can always add some dye later on down the road right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Not really sure. My build is mainly going to be a black/red theme. I'm using an Asus Maximus VI Formula as well. So not really sure, but I definitely want red fluid. No need to be UV reactive.
> 
> What are your thoughts on this tubing and dye?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17886/ex-tub-1619/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_12_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-12-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?tl=g30c99s171#blank
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17708/ex-liq-285/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Red.html
> Gee, thanks! lol


That advanced LRT and mayhems pastel seems to be one of the safest choices after doing a bit of google research.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I got the EK X-Res to put in my Midi R2, I plan to mount it on the bottom in front of the PSU. There are already screw holes there for the alternate mounting on the HDD cage so hopefully no drilling required. Guess I'll find out this weekend though.


Nice, is there any functional reason to choose the 140 over the smaller 100?


----------



## Phishy714

I need some help here guys - I dunno why this is happening really..

I have 2x 220 rads in my Arc Midi R2. Both of them are in a push/pull configuration, both as intakes (from the top and the front) and a single 140mm fan as exhaust. Below shows my setup.

I have an MCP350 pump with an XSPC acrylic top, dual GTX TITAN's with the Hydro Copper blocks and a Swiftech Apogee HD cpu block over a 3770k overclocked to 4.5Ghz (at 1.23v). I normally run the pump full speed cause its sooo damn quiet, but anyways - I am getting some major overheating issues.

While the GPU's usually stay around 57-63C on LOAD, the CPU will hit 88-95C while playing Crysis 3 - it goes upwards of that high when stressing it on Prime95 as well. Is this normal/expected? Do I just need more rad space for a setup like this, or do you think I might have mounted it incorrectly?

The 3770k is delidded and thoroughly cleaned and re-seated with AS 5 - but I don't see why it would be this hot. Any ideas? Thanks!


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I need some help here guys - I dunno why this is happening really..
> 
> I have 2x 220 rads in my Arc Midi R2. Both of them are in a push/pull configuration, both as intakes (from the top and the front) and a single 140mm fan as exhaust. Below shows my setup.
> 
> I have an MCP350 pump with an XSPC acrylic top, dual GTX TITAN's with the Hydro Copper blocks and a Swiftech Apogee HD cpu block over a 3770k overclocked to 4.5Ghz (at 1.23v). I normally run the pump full speed cause its sooo damn quiet, but anyways - I am getting some major overheating issues.
> 
> While the GPU's usually stay around 57-63C on LOAD, the CPU will hit 88-95C while playing Crysis 3 - it goes upwards of that high when stressing it on Prime95 as well. Is this normal/expected? Do I just need more rad space for a setup like this, or do you think I might have mounted it incorrectly?
> 
> The 3770k is delidded and thoroughly cleaned and re-seated with AS 5 - but I don't see why it would be this hot. Any ideas? Thanks!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There's much better options out there than AS5, but I still can't imagine that being the problem. With dual Titans you may simply need more rad space; usually, adequately cooled GPU's load in the 40's or 50's. For example, my 2700K loads at just over 60C, while my 290X tops out at 50 even. My loop is powered by a D5 and consists of a single thick 360 and 240.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I need some help here guys - I dunno why this is happening really..
> 
> I have 2x 220 rads in my Arc Midi R2. Both of them are in a push/pull configuration, both as intakes (from the top and the front) and a single 140mm fan as exhaust. Below shows my setup.
> 
> I have an MCP350 pump with an XSPC acrylic top, dual GTX TITAN's with the Hydro Copper blocks and a Swiftech Apogee HD cpu block over a 3770k overclocked to 4.5Ghz (at 1.23v). I normally run the pump full speed cause its sooo damn quiet, but anyways - I am getting some major overheating issues.
> 
> While the GPU's usually stay around 57-63C on LOAD, the CPU will hit 88-95C while playing Crysis 3 - it goes upwards of that high when stressing it on Prime95 as well. Is this normal/expected? Do I just need more rad space for a setup like this, or do you think I might have mounted it incorrectly?
> 
> The 3770k is delidded and thoroughly cleaned and re-seated with AS 5 - but I don't see why it would be this hot. Any ideas? Thanks!


I'd say more rad space. The ivy bridges tend to run hotter, and with two gtx 780s in a single loop, you're barely cutting the rule of thumb in my opinion (of 120 rad per block plus 120 extra) and with overclocking that could lead to higher temperatures. also, are the gpus oc'd as well? from what i've seen if 85c on your cpu during a game and not on max load, that isn't normal.
either:
check mounting (could always be)
more rad space-what i think
hope this helps


----------



## Maximus Knight

Ur 4-Lightnings and 5 screens remind me of CallSignVega


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys, would (1) 360 mm rad and (1) 240 mm rad be sufficient to properly cool an i7-4770k and two GTX 780 Ti's in SLI?

Also, is it possible to use these 2 rads on 1 loop? And if so, in which order would you set the loop up?

Thanks


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys, would (1) 360 mm rad and (1) 240 mm rad be sufficient to properly cool an i7-4770k and two GTX 780 Ti's in SLI?
> 
> Also, is it possible to use these 2 rads on 1 loop? And if so, in which order would you set the loop up?
> 
> Thanks


I would say add in another 240 or at least a 120/140; I like to go overboard with rad space. With enough pump power and case space, you can have as many rads as you want. Loop order doesn't matter, as long as your reservoir comes before the pump (the pump should *never* run dry).


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Water velocity isnt the reason dual pass perform better,the dual pass extends the transit path of the fluid and,because the U shape,it allows the air cool all the way without the air getting prewarmed by the rows in front.
> 
> Think of it like this,take the dual pass flow path and unfold it,even tho its half the width,its double the length. The length will show a greater temp drop as the transit time is increased in the dissipation area and less skewing from heat transfer from the preceding rows. This is how the AMS rad can perform like normal rads even with the disadvantages of round tubes and alu fins.
> This is my understanding of it.
> 
> I'm posting from my phone,I can explain it better with pics


Thanks BNEG for the explanation. rep+


----------



## Anoxy

Hmm, I hope my planned loop is sufficient then. One 80mm 240 and one 60mm 240 for two 780s and a 3570k.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I have 1440mm of rad space


----------



## derickwm

Let's see... 2 480s, 2 240s, 1 360, and 1 120.


----------



## X-oiL

Would a single D5 be enough for 2 x 420, 1x240, 2 GPU-block and a cpu + res?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Let's see... 2 480s, 2 240s, 1 360, and 1 120.


----------



## derickwm

All for the chipset/ram and some nonexistent GPUs. Have a chiller being built for the CPUs.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nice, is there any functional reason to choose the 140 over the smaller 100?


I don't think so. I got the 100 because I thought it would fit better.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Thanks BNEG for the explanation. rep+


Now this has me really confused. At equal flow rates doesn't the single pass rad have twice as much water going through it at 1/2 the velocity of its dual pass counterpart. The the number of water molecules in the channels at any time would be equivalent between the two rads. For a single pass rad let's say you have 12 channels full of water molecules for x amount of time per cycle if the loop. And in the dual pass you have 6 channels of water molecules cooled for 2x amount of time. The only difference between the two being the speed the water travels through its channels in each scenario.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> All for the chipset/ram and some nonexistent GPUs. Have a chiller being built for the CPUs.


you'll need it more than I will though


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Now this has me really confused. At equal flow rates doesn't the single pass rad have twice as much water going through it at 1/2 the velocity of its dual pass counterpart. The the number of water molecules in the channels at any time would be equivalent between the two rads. For a single pass rad let's say you have 12 channels full of water molecules for x amount of time per cycle if the loop. And in the dual pass you have 6 channels of water molecules cooled for 2x amount of time. The only difference between the two being the speed the water travels through its channels in each scenario.


Yeah, that is right. The speed of water flow in each individual tube is lower because the tubes are shorter but at the same time there are twice the tubes.

Given the same flow rate and rads of identical type besides Xflow vs Uflow the volume of water being exposed to airflow per second is the same. That is what fundamentally determines how much energy is dissipated. The speed of flow is a fine tuning effect.

The only real test I have seen is an old one and two rads of the same brand and thickness were almost exactly equal. The Xflow cooled 5W less but that could be simple sample variation as much as an effect of construction.

That is my understanding anyway. If the U flow is of the forward to back rows type though there may be a different effect because all rows are not getting equal access to cool air.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Yeah that's the way I understood it. The velocity of water would create slightly more turbulence and expose more water to contact with the metal, which would be the only thing different between the two rads that could account for the difference in performance (St equal flow rates)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Now this has me really confused. At equal flow rates doesn't the single pass rad have twice as much water going through it at 1/2 the velocity of its dual pass counterpart. The the number of water molecules in the channels at any time would be equivalent between the two rads. For a single pass rad let's say you have 12 channels full of water molecules for x amount of time per cycle if the loop. And in the dual pass you have 6 channels of water molecules cooled for 2x amount of time. The only difference between the two being the speed the water travels through its channels in each scenario.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that is right. The speed of water flow in each individual tube is lower because the tubes are shorter but at the same time there are twice the tubes.
> 
> Given the same flow rate and rads of identical type besides Xflow vs Uflow the volume of water being exposed to airflow per second is the same. That is what fundamentally determines how much energy is dissipated. The speed of flow is a fine tuning effect.
> 
> The only real test I have seen is an old one and two rads of the same brand and thickness were almost exactly equal. The Xflow cooled 5W less but that could be simple sample variation as much as an effect of construction.
> 
> That is my understanding anyway. *If the U flow is of the forward to back rows type though there may be a different effect because all rows are not getting equal access to cool air.*
Click to expand...

This is what i was( badly) trying to explain.
Martin did a good piece on this,i should pull it up....


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys, I'm looking to get into water cooling for the first time. I'm looking to water cool an i7-4770k and (2) GTX 780 Ti's. Can you check this out and let me know what you guys think? This is my first attempt at planning out my first custom loop. Case I will be using is a Corsair Obsidian 750D.



For more information on what I'm trying to do, please visit this thread.

Your feedback is GREATLY appreciated









http://www.overclock.net/t/1438725/watercooling-an-i7-4770k-and-2-gtx-780-tis-in-sli


----------



## derickwm

Looks pretty solid to me :thumb:


----------



## Juthos

Waterblock for MSI Z77IA-E53


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Waterblock for MSI Z77IA-E53


That thing should just be shipped as a motherboard, not waterblock









Looks nice tho


----------



## McMogg

Surely the slower flowspeed through a Crossflow radiator cause laminar flow, and therefore worse heat transfer between radiator and water?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMogg*
> 
> Surely the slower flowspeed through a Crossflow radiator cause laminar flow, and therefore worse heat transfer between radiator and water?


Why surely?

I have seen lots of theory talk about laminar flow and I have no doubt things like that might have an effect but I think its also likely that those sorts of physics really don't apply in the flow rates and conditions in water cooling gear.
A bit of common sense says that yes in a cross flow vs Uflow rad the water velocity in each tube is likely halved. But think of the velocity of water in rads like UT60 and Monsta VS say the ST30. The UT60 has 3 times the tubes of a ST30 so its velocity per tube is only 1/3 ... a Monsta it is 1/4 I believe. Do those rads suffer from laminar effects? The velocity of water in crossflow rads (which are all thin as far as I have seen) is still higher than in a thick rad.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Need some help,looking to buy this res from overseas http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30839:f2cd27bb0d3711ab6f4c1418e88220d2 but im looking at where it says ''Available Options: Nozzles:...No Nozzles" does this mean it doesnt come with the silver nozzle inside....?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need some help,looking to buy this res from overseas http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30839:f2cd27bb0d3711ab6f4c1418e88220d2 but im looking at where it says ''Available Options: Nozzles:...No Nozzles" does this mean it doesnt come with the silver nozzle inside....?


No, that is just a quirk of the US websites where they want to add g1/4 barbs or fittings to every purchase.

Just ignore that unless you also want to buy more fittings too.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, that is just a quirk of the US websites where they want to add g1/4 barbs or fittings to every purchase.


That's what i was thinking,just wanted to make sure before i ordered it....Thx mate....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Not really sure. My build is mainly going to be a black/red theme. I'm using an Asus Maximus VI Formula as well. So not really sure, but I definitely want red fluid. No need to be UV reactive.
> 
> What are your thoughts on this tubing and dye?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17886/ex-tub-1619/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_12_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-12-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?tl=g30c99s171#blank
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17708/ex-liq-285/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Red.html
> Gee, thanks! lol


Yes the advance lrt is currently recommend to be used with pastel. Have not seen anything bad lol.

You may want to get some deep red dye to go with the pastel red. A lot of people think the red is a little lighter than they want. A couple of the drops from the deep red will darken it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I think I'm gonna start out with distilled water only since it's my first time. I can always add some dye later on down the road right?
> That advanced LRT and mayhems pastel seems to be one of the safest choices after doing a bit of google research.
> Nice, is there any functional reason to choose the 140 over the smaller 100?


Yes you can add dye whenever you'd like


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yes you can add dye whenever you'd like


Cool, thanks. One question I thought of though. If I use distilled water and a silver killcoil now, will I need to remove it and flush my system completely before adding dye in the future?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Cool, thanks. One question I thought of though. If I use distilled water and a silver killcoil now, will I need to remove it and flush my system completely before adding dye in the future?


No, you shouldn't need to. I've done that before and I didn't experience any adverse affects.


----------



## Roxycon

My humble build before my planned upgrade


----------



## VSG

^That's supposed to be humble?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *McMogg*
> 
> Surely the slower flowspeed through a Crossflow radiator cause laminar flow, and therefore worse heat transfer between radiator and water?
> 
> 
> 
> Why surely?
> 
> I have seen lots of theory talk about laminar flow and I have no doubt things like that might have an effect but I think its also likely that those sorts of physics really don't apply in the flow rates and conditions in water cooling gear.
> A bit of common sense says that yes in a cross flow vs Uflow rad the water velocity in each tube is likely halved. But think of the velocity of water in rads like UT60 and Monsta VS say the ST30. The UT60 has 3 times the tubes of a ST30 so its velocity per tube is only 1/3 ... a Monsta it is 1/4 I believe. Do those rads suffer from laminar effects? The velocity of water in crossflow rads (which are all thin as far as I have seen) is still higher than in a thick rad.
Click to expand...

The flattened tubes in the rads are good at breaking up laminar flow issues,the round tubes of the AMS are not,Aquacomputer know this,there is turbulence inducers in the tubes to combat it.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The flattened tubes in the rads are good at breaking up laminar flow issues,the round tubes of the AMS are not,Aquacomputer know this,there is turbulence inducers in the tubes to combat it.


The way I see it, the advantage of rectangular tubes is twofold. A rectangular 2 x 20mm radiator tube has a cross-sectional area of 40mm^2 and a perimeter of 44mm. A circular tube of equivalent velocity and flow rate (same 40mm^2 cross-sectional area) only has a circumference (perimeter) of about 22.4mm. The rectangular tube's larger perimeter means it has almost twice as much external surface area to dissipate heat and almost twice as much internal surface area to collect heat from the water and add friction to promote turbulent flow.

That being said, splitting the one large circular tube into 2 or more smaller ones will help increase total surface area and cooling efficiency, but at the cost of increased complexity and cost.


----------



## McMogg

Well whilst water-based physics is almost entirely new to me (here goes..) - surely the change of direction in a U-Flow radiator breaks laminar flow entirely?
A crossflow radiator would have a large amount of turbulence at the entrance, where it moves 90* from the input ports to the tubes in the radiator itself, but it never changes direction again (before leave the rad that is).. Wouldn't that make a difference?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Cool, thanks. One question I thought of though. If I use distilled water and a silver killcoil now, will I need to remove it and flush my system completely before adding dye in the future?


If you are just adding dye then there is no issue. Now if you want something like mayhems pastel or anything else that has biocides and inhibitors in it, then yeah you need to drain, remove silver coil, and flush before using


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So Im in need of some help with barbs,

First, I need some adapters for Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Extreme Acetal using 1/2 barbs with 7/16 tubing, I was thinking Bitspower G3/8 to G1/4 Adapter Matte Black This would be fine wouldnt it?

Second, I wanna use some rotary fittings but Im unsure which ones to go, XSPC G1/4 45 Degree Rotary Fitting Black Chrome , Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Rotary 90 Degree Extender or Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Rotary Angle 1/2 Fitting I heard the XSPC ones can sometimes leak?

Thanks


----------



## Forceman

Can't you use 1/2 barbs with 7/16 tubing? I thought that would actually be preferred to 3/8 barbs.


----------



## VSG

Ya, you can actually use 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs and it would actually be a snug fit without anything else needed.

Get the cheapest rotary fittings you can get unless you absolutely need a Bitspower fitting. I got some from Bitspower as well as Feser and surprisingly the Fesers worked better for me.


----------



## Tillmander

Any thoughts on the best way to mount fans in a 650d with a 240mm rad up top? My gpu dumps hot air into the case so i have the top 240mm rad set as intake so it doesn't take hot air but then my vrm's get really hot. back fan is exhaust.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Can't you use 1/2 barbs with 7/16 tubing? I thought that would actually be preferred to 3/8 barbs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, you can actually use 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs and it would actually be a snug fit without anything else needed.
> 
> Get the cheapest rotary fittings you can get unless you absolutely need a Bitspower fitting. I got some from Bitspower as well as Feser and surprisingly the Fesers worked better for me.


Yeah Im gonna use 7/16 with 1/2, already got all the barbs and crap, I stuffed up when I bought the pump top I thought it was the normal one not the extreme but they have no normal tops in black only clear







and Im to damn lazy to paint it









Thanks, just wasnt sure on what rotary to go, to many flipping barbs, fittings, blocks etc


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tillmander*
> 
> Any thoughts on the best way to mount fans in a 650d with a 240mm rad up top? My gpu dumps hot air into the case so i have the top 240mm rad set as intake so it doesn't take hot air but then my vrm's get really hot. back fan is exhaust.


Can you add a radiator to the front of the case so there is less heat being dumped by the top radiator? Having radiators pulling fresh air is always preferred.


----------



## Sazz

Just an updated pic of my rig, switched from HD7970 to R9 290X.


----------



## Brenny06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevreenbx*
> 
> 
> _Thanks!
> 
> I am really excited about this stuff, the rest of the parts I need to get my first custom loop up and running should be here Wednesday or Thursday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> 
> 
> I know how you feel Bud, I still feel the same way when I'm waiting on parts for a new rig, it hasn't gotten old yet..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoy it as much as most of us do, it gets to be a hobby, upkeep isn't a problem, its fun to tear apart and play with on a slow night..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..


that is exactly what my computer is for me. A (very expensive) hobby. 
I don't really game enough to need this comp, and i def don't do work tht requires this much power. I just enjoy it...
(All of the work in my worklog waqs done on "slow nights" that i had nothing better to do)


----------



## cyphon

All of the above plus wc gets addicting and you start trying to find some reason to build another one


----------



## Br0k3nLiNk

Hey guys, been a while since i posted in here.

Got a GTX 580 3Gb off a friend for a decent price, with EK Nickel block. Decided to try out Mayhems pastel.

What do you guys think?


----------



## steelkevin

I think it deserves a Backplate


----------



## Br0k3nLiNk

Yea man i need to get one.. just wanted it all up and running first







if anyone happens to have one lying about, you know what to do


----------



## Anoxy

Gah, I'm so conflicted. Distilled water + killcoil or Mayhem's Pastel?

I could also go with colored tubing instead, but I've read that for a noob like me it's harder because you can't see air bubbles?


----------



## yimmykpekk

Hey guys,
Just joined OCN today and thought that I would present my first water cooled rig, all parts
cooled using EKWB. The plan is to update all components in the near future MB, CPU, RAM,
PSU and also add a second GTX 680. While I'm doing that I will also change up the water loop
and add some new parts such as pump and resevoir. If any of you who are more advanced
users of EKWBs systems have some pointers please share.


----------



## Anoxy

Sweet build man! Are you using colored coolant or does the UV lighting just give it that effect?


----------



## yimmykpekk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Sweet build man! Are you using colored coolant or does the UV lighting just give it that effect?


Sorry correction...
Both the tubing and coolant are blue and are manufactured to react on UV light.


----------



## Forceman

Rookie question - is there any significant benefit/limitation in which way you put the fitting end of a vertically (case front) mounted radiator? Is it better to have the radiator so the fittings are on the top, or is it okay to have them on the bottom? In my plan the tubing works best with the radiator fittings on the bottom, but I'm not sure if that will adversely affect performance (or filling/air bubbling).


----------



## yimmykpekk

It does not really make a difference. As soon as you fill the system with coolant and it reaches all parts in your loop it doesn't take that much for the pump to circulate it. You will just have to tip your system from side to side or even upside down if that is possible when you're filling up to make sure you get rid of all the air in the system.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yimmykpekk*
> 
> It does not really make a difference. As soon as you fill the system with coolant and it reaches all parts in your loop it doesn't take that much for the pump to circulate it. You will just have to tip your system from side to side or even upside down if that is possible when you're filling up to make sure you get rid of all the air in the system.


Okay, that's what I figured, but I thought I read a post earlier that said it was better to have them on the top. I don't want to get it all tubed up and then find out I screwed myself.


----------



## brandon6199

Also, looks like I finally got the answer I was looking for. I'll have to wait for the EK-FC780 GTX Ti Series water blocks to be released before placing an order for my loop.

I will be placing my order for all of my other parts today, including the i7-4770k and GTX 780 Ti's.

http://www.ekwb.com/news/412/19/EK-FC-Titan-SE-incompatible-with-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-780-Ti---EK-FC780-GTX-Ti-in-the-making/


----------



## yimmykpekk

...


----------



## yimmykpekk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Okay, that's what I figured, but I thought I read a post earlier that said it was better to have them on the top. I don't want to get it all tubed up and then find out I screwed myself.


I don't see it making any difference up or down once the coolant fills up all parts in your loop. The only thing is that it will be harder to get rid of all the air but if you can tip your system to all sides it won't be a problem


----------



## defiler2k

Two questions, as Im working through re doing my setup with rigid tubing I noticed that my CPU has a slight bend since I started using the EK precise mount. Looks like the block pushed in a way that caused the PCB to bend slightly. Has anyone noticed this with the precise mount and the supremacy?

Also, when I pulled my block the CLU I had on the die dried and left some horrid markings on the block which I had to use an abrasive pad to get the dried CLU off. Any advise on how to get the block polished back to the mirrored finish?


----------



## steelkevin

Probably not the place but the best and only French watercooling retailer has massive discounts on loads of watercooling products the French don't seem to buy.

You can order from the UK, Germany, Spain and other countries withing the EU.

Here's a list of what I thought might interest some of you:

- AquaGraFX GTX580 -50% | *44€*
- EK-FC7950 CF NICKEL (EN) -30% | *65€*
- EK-FC770 ACETAL -20% | *71€*
- EK-FC680 LIGHTNING NICKEL - ACETAL -30% | *69€*
- EK-FC TITAN NICKEL - ACETAL -30% | *69€*
- KooLance - VID-NX680 GeForce GTX680 -20% | *96€*
- Phobya - Xtreme NOVA 1080 -20% | *144€*

There was much more but the rest of it was really old and probably still too expensive despite massive discounts. Here's the link the the 20 pages of products if anybody feels like going through them all: http://www.docmicro.com/promos/index_dstock.php

PS: if nobody's interested it doesn't matter, I put this here just in case even a single one of you could be interested


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yimmykpekk*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Just joined OCN today and thought that I would present my first water cooled rig, all parts
> cooled using EKWB. The plan is to update all components in the near future MB, PCU, RAM
> and also add a second GTX 680. While I'm doing that I will also change up the water loop
> and add some new parts such as pump and resevoir. If any of you who are more advanced
> users of EKWBs systems have some pointers please share.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is one sexy case, and thank you for providing me with a view I've always been curious about (the side view, and how much can be seen through the mesh)!


----------



## derickwm

Looks good yimmy


----------



## dervladimir

new staff and small changes

 
 
 
 

left to clean up the cabels


----------



## Maximus Knight

Nice setup! But the flash doesn't make ur pic very nice xP


----------



## yimmykpekk

Nice dervladimir


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Nice setup! But the flash doesn't make ur pic very nice xP


Agreed. Give it some sunlight and turn off the flash, will look nicer. But nice and clean setup:thumb:


----------



## dervladimir

@*Maximus Knight*
@*yimmykpekk*
@*Jeemil89*
thanks... in next time I'll try do better pics


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> new staff and small changes
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> left to clean up the cabels


Looking good, just to throw in my two cents here, that pump/pump top combo tends to run a little warm when there is no direct airflow on it. I have the same one and also had it mounted on sound dampening material. I ended up putting a heatsink on mine and could not be happier with the results, also added in a fan for overkill. Here is the part I used, good luck with the rest of the build!

CLICK



Here is what it looks like installed, and just another reason to put a picture of my rig up.


----------



## LiquidHaus

crammed the monsta in there, cleaned up some stuff as well but still not done. need to buy aquaero 6


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Lourad

Nice!


----------



## kpoeticg

Bundy's avatar is SO appropriate LOLLLL. Very nice!!


----------



## yimmykpekk

That thing is nice as hell lifeisshort117


----------



## Kyle1519




----------



## briddell

Overall, not bad, but that anti-kink looks _terrible._ Without it, it'd look much better.


----------



## steelkevin

Meh... Anti kink isn't what bothers me. I've never liked *anti kink* nor bay reservoirs. Especially when the case could do it all internally

EDIT: wasn't on my computer, was waiting at the hairdresser. What I really meant was "I've never liked *external radiators* nor bay reservoirs"
And as Anoxy said, it's not to bash your hard work, we're just giving or opinions so you can know where you stand and what you can do to improve your baby and be all that more proud of it







. I'm sure there could be a lot said about my work (looks at tubing and fittings thickness







...).


----------



## Anoxy

I think the poor cathode light placement is what does it for me. Those should be hidden!

Constructive criticism btw, don't take it the wrong way. I don't even have a loop yet


----------



## SammyT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Two questions, as Im working through re doing my setup with rigid tubing I noticed that my CPU has a slight bend since I started using the EK precise mount. Looks like the block pushed in a way that caused the PCB to bend slightly. Has anyone noticed this with the precise mount and the supremacy?
> 
> Also, when I pulled my block the CLU I had on the die dried and left some horrid markings on the block which I had to use an abrasive pad to get the dried CLU off. Any advise on how to get the block polished back to the mirrored finish?


Hey mate,

I had the same deal with my blocks. Ek told me to use car polish. Worked a treat.


----------



## Janac

Could this be a reason for bad temps?

Ambient 24°

max. 47° on Celeron G465 with IntelBurn test maximum 10 runs...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> Could this be a reason for bad temps?
> 
> Ambient 24°
> 
> max. 47° on Celeron G465 with IntelBurn test maximum 10 runs...


How is that bad temps? You have less than 25 delta from ambient and you are a looooooooonnggg way from temperature shutoff

What in the pic were you referring to as well?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> crammed the monsta in there, cleaned up some stuff as well but still not done. need to buy aquaero 6


Never really been one for 800D's at all, but that is _astonishing._ Just out of curiosity, what fans are you using on the basement radiator? They look like NB eLoops... How do they perform, and how quiet are they?

-Zepp


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Never really been one for 800D's at all, but that is _astonishing._ Just out of curiosity, what fans are you using on the basement radiator? They look like NB eLoops... How do they perform, and how quiet are they?
> 
> -Zepp


Those i believe are the eloops. They are considered one of the top rad fans. You cannot put them in pull config though because the blades stick up above the casing just a bit. They are pretty quiet. I think they get a little whine at top speed, but you can easily run them at lower voltages and still keep everything cool and quiet


----------



## Ragsters

I just bought a Lenox tube cutter from Lowes for my 3/4" tubing. When I got home I noticed that the blade has a serrated edge instead of straight. Is that going to be a problem?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I just bought a Lenox tube cutter from Lowes for my 3/4" tubing. When I got home I noticed that the blade has a serrated edge instead of straight. Is that going to be a problem?


Nope.
Twist the cutter round the tube with pressure,dont try to cut it like with scissors.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Those i believe are the eloops. They are considered one of the top rad fans. You cannot put them in pull config though because the blades stick up above the casing just a bit. They are pretty quiet. I think they get a little whine at top speed, but you can easily run them at lower voltages and still keep everything cool and quiet


The blades on NB-eloops do *NOT* stuck up at all !!!
Where do you get your information from ??









At least the B12-3 ones that I have don't.....and to be honest I can't image any others in the range do either.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Those i believe are the eloops. They are considered one of the top rad fans. You cannot put them in pull config though because the blades stick up above the casing just a bit. They are pretty quiet. I think they get a little whine at top speed, but you can easily run them at lower voltages and still keep everything cool and quiet


I suppose you could put them in a pull config if you use a gasket or spacer, something along the lines of that.

-Zepp


----------



## Kurio




----------



## yimmykpekk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I just bought a Lenox tube cutter from Lowes for my 3/4" tubing. When I got home I noticed that the blade has a serrated edge instead of straight. Is that going to be a problem?


If you use compression fittings it won't matter at all. I don't think it will matter with barbed either.


----------



## Forceman

Okay, so lesson learned - you can't fit a Alphacool 280mm radiator in the front panel of a Arc Midi R2. Or the top panel. Luckily there was _just_ enough room to wedge it into the front and stuff some padding in to secure it. Not the cleanest effort, but at least it works. Kind of screwed up my whole design plan, so I had to kind of wing it. I think I may buy another batch of tubing and redo it at some point, but for now it works. CPU temps aren't what I'd hoped for (I think I may not have used enough paste under the Raystorm) but the GPU temps are amazing.



Edit: Yeah, and I'm now realizing that crossing the CPU and GPU tubes was stupid. It made sense at the time from a non-kinking perspective, but now that I look at it more...yeah.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Okay, so lesson learned - *you can't fit a Alphacool 280mm radiator in the front panel of a Arc Midi R2.* Or the top panel. Luckily there was _just_ enough room to wedge it into the front and stuff some padding in to secure it. Not the cleanest effort, but at least it works. Kind of screwed up my whole design plan, so I had to kind of wing it. I think I may buy another batch of tubing and redo it at some point, but for now it works. CPU temps aren't what I'd hoped for (I think I may not have used enough paste under the Raystorm) but the GPU temps are amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Yeah, and I'm now realizing that crossing the CPU and GPU tubes was stupid. It made sense at the time from a non-kinking perspective, but now that I look at it more...yeah.


What you need is something from the precision tool box...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Okay, so lesson learned - you can't fit a Alphacool 280mm radiator in the front panel of a Arc Midi R2. Or the top panel. Luckily there was _just_ enough room to wedge it into the front and stuff some padding in to secure it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


With the right amount of padding who needs screws








I dont have any screw on this Rad and it's never moving.
I have to unscrew the PSU to move it









Nice Hammer by the way BNeg - we can make it fit !!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope.
> Twist the cutter round the tube with pressure,dont try to cut it like with scissors.


Really? That seems very inefficient. I rather just by a different pair so I can use them like scissors.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


excited to see a write up from you soon








I plan on ordering one when they're available.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yimmykpekk*
> 
> That thing is nice as hell lifeisshort117


Thank you sir that is greatly appreciated








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Never really been one for 800D's at all, but that is _astonishing._ Just out of curiosity, what fans are you using on the basement radiator? They look like NB eLoops... How do they perform, and how quiet are they?
> 
> -Zepp


I'm really glad you like my version of the 800D haha. I tried to keep the essence of it yet still customize it to my needs. Well, more like to my radiator's needs lol.

And yeah they're NB eLoops, just got them last night. And they're beautiful. They're completely silent on the motor side. They push so much air you only hear wind noise but that's at full blast. I have them sitting at 1200rpm right now which is most efficient on a Monsta rad.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Those i believe are the eloops. They are considered one of the top rad fans. You cannot put them in pull config though because the blades stick up above the casing just a bit. They are pretty quiet. I think they get a little whine at top speed, but you can easily run them at lower voltages and still keep everything cool and quiet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I suppose you could put them in a pull config if you use a gasket or spacer, something along the lines of that.
> 
> -Zepp


I chose not to run them as pull because of a couple reasons:

1. They cost a lot, so I have to buy little by little.
2. I read so many reviews prior to buying them and people kept advising against a pull setup with these.
3. My radiators in the case are all measured out for push only, I couldn't fit push/pull lol. Plus I'm running SR1 radiators as well and they're wide open fin wise. I only have one small EX240, and Yate Loons are on it and the SR1s until I can afford more eLoops. Because they are WORTH IT.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*


From what I can see this looks awesome. The radiator rather sucks though if you care about noise.


----------



## brandon6199

Can anyone recommend a good res/pump combo that I can use with an MCP35x?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The blades on NB-eloops do *NOT* stuck up at all !!!
> Where do you get your information from ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least the B12-3 ones that I have don't.....and to be honest I can't image any others in the range do either.


Thought I had seen that somewhere. Perhaps it was just they don't perform as well in pull because of the blade design and not it physically not fitting.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good res/pump combo that I can use with an MCP35x?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38990


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good res/pump combo that I can use with an MCP35x?


Just get a male to male fitting or a d-plug and put a Bitspower res on top.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> From what I can see this looks awesome. The radiator rather sucks though if you care about noise.


Thanks lowfat








I do care about noise....
But fittings stuck out further than the fan on the other side.
With space limitation it had to be installed with fans on other side in _push_ out the case.

Still some work to do .... but it's getting close now.


----------



## Anoxy

My "watercooling pictures" folder just keeps growing and growing. Fantastic builds *fast_fate* and *Kurio*!

I really want to watercool in the Air 540...I feel like it would be so easy and with that back compartment...so CLEAN!


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just get a male to male fitting or a d-plug and put a Bitspower res on top.


How about using a male to male fitting with a MCP35x and an XSPC Photon 170 res?

Or, at that point, am I just better off purchasing this combo? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21480/ex-pmp-263/XSPC_Photon_170_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_D5_Vario.html#blank

Decisions, decisions


----------



## Gardnerphotos

does tubing kink less easily when it is under pressure from coolant flowing in it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope.
> Twist the cutter round the tube with pressure,dont try to cut it like with scissors.
> 
> 
> 
> Really? That seems very inefficient. I rather just by a different pair so I can use them like scissors.
Click to expand...

It gives perfect 90 cuts ,nothing inefficient about it,its the best method by far for cutting tube. Its standard practice for plumbers working with speedfit.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> does tubing kink less easily when it is under pressure from coolant flowing in it?


Indeed.


----------



## MiiX

How does the EK PE radiators perform? Close/better than EK XTX/AC UT60?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Indeed.


How much stiffer is it? In my sour apple build I have tubing which passes over a hinged door so it needs to bend 90 degrees but keeps kinking, hopefully when I fill it up it should be fine?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> How much stiffer is it? In my sour apple build I have tubing which passes over a hinged door so it needs to bend 90 degrees but keeps kinking, hopefully when I fill it up it should be fine?


I don't think it's a good idea to try and bend tubing 90 degrees haha. It's not designed to do that. You'd be better off getting a 90 degree compression fitting or adapter.

Think about turning on your garden hose and trying to bend it. Obviously that will impede flow.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I don't think it's a good idea to try and bend tubing 90 degrees haha. It's not designed to do that. You'd be better off getting a 90 degree compression fitting or adapter.
> 
> Think about turning on your garden hose and trying to bend it. Obviously that will impede flow.


90 degrees over a 15cm radius!


----------



## Anoxy

Haha well that makes much more sense! It's a loaded question though because it would depend on the amount of pressure inside. 15cm Seems like it shouldn't be a problem though.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

problem is that the length canges depending on whether the door is open or not, so when it is closed the hose is quite bunched which is where it kinks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> How does the EK PE radiators perform? Close/better than EK XTX/AC UT60?


I should imagine they are as good,they are a nice looking rad too.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I should imagine they are as good,they are a nice looking rad too.


If EK made them in white I would be all over it. I Ended up buying an XSPC rad instead. The looks are extremely similar. Wonder how performance compares.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I should imagine they are as good,they are a nice looking rad too.


Ye, but I keep thinking about the high FPI count, 38 (19 split fin).
The thing is that I'm going to cool a Haswell CPU, and the Impact motherboard, If I get my hands on the EK Fullcover for the Impact board, but I want to keep the rig as silent as possible at all times.
First I was thinking about going for UT60 120+AP29 that I got untill I get annoyed by the clicking noise it does at low PWM(ye, modded), but I cant imagine that a PE 120 with push/pull will be more noisy since I can ramp down the RPM's cause of 2 fans instead of the one. Probably going to add the GTX780 to the loop later, but if I do that I'm also going to get QDC's and make a way to connect an external rad when wanted.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> The looks are extremely similar. Wonder how performance compares.


Indeed.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Thought I had seen that somewhere. Perhaps it was just they don't perform as well in pull because of the blade design and not it physically not fitting.


Yeah, i've also seen a few reviews where they mention the blades stick out on them. Also that even if you use a shroud to make it work, they're still much louder in pull cuz they're made for push. I got a 3-Pack of the Phobya 1600RPM E-Loops on the way right now, but i haven't seen em in person yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Ye, but I keep thinking about the high FPI count, 38 (19 split fin).
> The thing is that I'm going to cool a Haswell CPU, and the Impact motherboard, If I get my hands on the EK Fullcover for the Impact board, but I want to keep the rig as silent as possible at all times.
> First I was thinking about going for UT60 120+AP29 that I got untill I get annoyed by the clicking noise it does at low PWM(ye, modded), but I cant imagine that a PE 120 with push/pull will be more noisy since I can ramp down the RPM's cause of 2 fans instead of the one. Probably going to add the GTX780 to the loop later, but if I do that I'm also going to get QDC's and make a way to connect an external rad when wanted.
> Indeed.


I was worried about getting a PE240 with only one set of AP-00's on it. But 2 sets of AP-29's should be more than enough to push air through it


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I was worried about getting a PE240 with only one set of AP-00's on it. But 2 sets of AP-29's should be more than enough to push air through it


I only got one AP29 now, but Im thinking about replacing it with two eLoop 2000rpm PWM's


----------



## lowfat

19 FPI split fin isn't that dense. Any fan over 1400 rpm shouldn't have problems w/ those radiators.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> How about using a male to male fitting with a MCP35x and an XSPC Photon 170 res?
> 
> Or, at that point, am I just better off purchasing this combo? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21480/ex-pmp-263/XSPC_Photon_170_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_D5_Vario.html#blank
> 
> Decisions, decisions


Help


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Help


I am not sold on the XSPC pump/res kit, looks like mount options are limited.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I only got one AP29 now, but Im thinking about replacing it with two eLoop 2000rpm PWM's


Well, the issue of using E-Loops in Pull aside, I still don't see any problem with 2000RPM Push/Pull
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 19 FPI split fin isn't that dense. Any fan over 1400 rpm shouldn't have problems w/ those radiators.


Even for only one set of fans u think that? Or were u saying Push/Pull?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> I am not sold on the XSPC pump/res kit, looks like mount options are limited.


Yeah the Photon can be a bit akward to mount. But the quality's incredible. The mounts solid as hell too, just a bit akward
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Help


If you buy the Photon then u might as well go with the D5. Make sure u get the 170 though cuz the 270 + D5 could be problematic in the XB. But there's plenty of other options if you wanna go MCP35x. Alphacool, Bitspower, EK, & Swiftech all make res/pump combo's for the DDC/35x.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> does tubing kink less easily when it is under pressure from coolant flowing in it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> does tubing kink less easily when it is under pressure from coolant flowing in it?
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> How much stiffer is it? In my sour apple build I have tubing which passes over a hinged door so it needs to bend 90 degrees but keeps kinking, hopefully when I fill it up it should be fine?
Click to expand...

If you have even a hint of a kink before you fill the loop, it will only get worse, not better, when you get it in operation.

What you haven't accounted for is that when the loop is operational, it's much warmer, with the tubing much softer and flimsier, than when it's at its stiffest at ambient.

Darlene


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Even for only one set of fans u think that? Or were u saying Push/Pull?
> .


Just push. The Coolstream PE is very similar in design to the XSPC EX series. Split fin, 19 FPI. Medium speed fans have no problem on it so I assume the PE will perform very similarly.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just push. The Coolstream PE is very similar in design to the XSPC EX series. Split fin, 19 FPI. Medium speed fans have no problem on it so I assume the PE will perform very similarly.


Interesting. I wish i saw you say that b4 i ordered my ST30








Good to know tho.Thanx


----------



## MiiX

What would be the best radiator performance/RPM wise? I want as low RPM as possible to make it less noisy.
Another thing is that I cannot use push/pull if the radiator is thicker than 40mm.
Thinking about the UT45, but then I can only use one 25/38mm fan or anything equal to 45mm max.


----------



## Alex132

I'm going to be oldschool here and say the XSPC RX360.

I currently have ~300-400rpm cougar downstepped fans cooling it. Inaudible and keeps my CPU nice and cool.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What would be the best radiator performance/RPM wise? I want as low RPM as possible to make it less noisy.
> Another thing is that I cannot use push/pull if the radiator is thicker than 40mm.
> Thinking about the UT45, but then I can only use one 25/38mm fan or anything equal to 45mm max.


The Hardware Labs Black Ice SR1 radiators are great. They are definetely thicker than 40mm but they're specifically designed for push only, so it'd work out for you.

EDIT: they're 54mm thick


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I'm going to be oldschool here and say the XSPC RX360.
> 
> I currently have *~300-400rpm* cougar downstepped fans cooling it. Inaudible and keeps my CPU nice and cool.


What kind of voltage are you giving the fans? Like 3V?









An RX360 w/ fans at that speed would be dissipating less than 50W. I think maybe you are underestimating the speed your fans are running at.


----------



## MiiX

Well, yes, it would work great at low RPM, but it gets outperformed by UT60/XT45 at slightly higher speeds, which is where eLoops on lowest PWM setting. There is another thing aswell, if I want my GTX780 under water by one rad, will the SR1 be sufficient? I think the UT60 is the way to go for me cause of its performance at low and high RPM's, which I would need IF I throw in my GTX780 into the loop.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I'm going to be oldschool here and say the XSPC RX360.
> 
> I currently have *~300-400rpm* cougar downstepped fans cooling it. Inaudible and keeps my CPU nice and cool.
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of voltage are you giving the fans? Like 3V?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An RX360 w/ fans at that speed would be dissipating less than 50W. I think maybe you are underestimating the speed your fans are running at.
Click to expand...

They're 700rpm fans that I am running at the lowest setting on my fan controller


----------



## lowfat

The difference between radiators is a couple of watts. Even when you move up to 1400 rpm there is a whopping 10W difference between the UT60 and the SR1. People put way too much importance on numbers.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Well, I have a 120, 240, and a 360 SR1. I love em. But if you're really stuck between them and the UT60, get the UT60. It'll save you some money.


----------



## MiiX

I'v never been watercooling anything, well I do have a H50, but that explains itself. At 1800RPM, There is a 20W difference, which is the lowest I can run the AP29, which is the fan I will use untill I find out it makes so much noise it needs to be replaced. it I guess the gap wont be smaller at higher RPM's? I dont know how much that it requires to cool a i5-4770k+GTX780, but as far as I see, I can get 1/3 of the performance in the reviews cause im only using 120 not 360... As said, I dont know, gotta start asking questions somewhere!
Everything you guys tell me is helping me choose what to get so, thanks! keep it comming!


----------



## kpoeticg

Here's a chart some1 on here put together based off the data on martinsliquidlab. It's Watts dissipated at different RPM's for different Alphacool rads


----------



## Anoxy

Interesting, how do I apply that to my personal system? Do I just add up the wattage from my CPU and GPUs and then compare that to the numbers my rads are dissipating?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Interesting, how do I apply that to my personal system? Do I just add up the wattage from my CPU and GPUs and then compare that to the numbers my rads are dissipating?


Yeah pretty much. Just figure whatever you have connected in your loop, mobo's and ram hardly add anything. You can use something like THIS to help figure out how many watts u have to dissipate


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Well, I have a 120, 240, and a 360 SR1. I love em. But if you're really stuck between them and the UT60, get the UT60. It'll save you some money.


SR1 fanboy here as well. SR1 560, SR1 280, and an SR1 360. Although I am only using the 280 now.


----------



## unequalteck

sorry for the blur image. the best camera i had ATM


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well, the issue of using E-Loops in Pull aside, I still don't see any problem with 2000RPM Push/Pull
> Even for only one set of fans u think that? Or were u saying Push/Pull?
> Yeah the Photon can be a bit akward to mount. But the quality's incredible. The mounts solid as hell too, just a bit akward
> If you buy the Photon then u might as well go with the D5. Make sure u get the 170 though cuz the 270 + D5 could be problematic in the XB. But there's plenty of other options if you wanna go MCP35x. Alphacool, Bitspower, EK, & Swiftech all make res/pump combo's for the DDC/35x.


Do you mind linking me?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Do you mind linking me?


Photon 170/D5 Combo

Alphacool DDC Water Tank

EK DDC 3.2 PWM X-Res 140 You can swap out the tubes with any of EK-Res X3 Tubes HERE

Koolance COV-RP400 DDC Base + Reservoir . The FrozenCPU page lets u pick a cpl different DDC Pumps and Res Tubes

Swiftech MCP35x Optional Res Attachment

Bitspower Water Tank Z 80mm DDC Res D-Plug Version and Bitspower Dual/Single DDC Top Upgrade Kit with Clear Cap

Bitspower DDC Mini Water Tank


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> SR1 fanboy here as well. SR1 560, SR1 280, and an SR1 360. Although I am only using the 280 now.


they're great radiators.

they look good, and they perform very well. best of both worlds!


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Photon 170/D5 Combo
> 
> Alphacool DDC Water Tank
> 
> EK DDC 3.2 PWM X-Res 140 You can swap out the tubes with any of EK-Res X3 Tubes HERE
> 
> Koolance COV-RP400 DDC Base + Reservoir . The FrozenCPU page lets u pick a cpl different DDC Pumps and Res Tubes
> 
> Swiftech MCP35x Optional Res Attachment
> 
> Bitspower Water Tank Z 80mm DDC Res D-Plug Version and Bitspower Dual/Single DDC Top Upgrade Kit with Clear Cap
> 
> Bitspower DDC Mini Water Tank


Thanks









Looks like I'm going with the Photon 170 res/D5 pump combo.

What are your thoughts on the Swiftech MCP35x res attachment? If you read the reviews on that link on FrozenCPU, almost all of them are negative reviews due to cracking/leaking of the res. Such a shame, because I would have picked that up ASAP considering the MCP35x is a better pump than the D5.


----------



## kpoeticg

DDC and MCP35x are the same pump. Any of the links i just gave u except for the Photon will work with the MCP35x.
I haven't read the reviews on the Swiftech, i was just giving u options

DDC/MCP35_/Koolance PMP-400 are all the same pump. Just released with different brand names. The DDC 3.2 PWM and MCP35x are PWM controlled. But they're all DDC Pumps.

Just like D5/MCP655/PMP-450 are all D5 Pumps with different brand names


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> sorry for the blur image. the best camera i had ATM


wot case is that?


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> How is that bad temps? You have less than 25 delta from ambient and you are a looooooooonnggg way from temperature shutoff
> 
> What in the pic were you referring to as well?


I am wondering where is the problem... My water in system is less than 10° above the ambient, what else could be a reason for bad temps? Contact of a block on a chip? But the block is very tightened. I have tested 4 different thermal pastes like, Ceramique, AS5, MX-2, CLU and temps have never changed. Can i blame the pump for bad flow ? I have been using DC 2.2 with 2 blocks, EK wave, EK Supreme LT(and LTX), EK rad 120 XT, Airplex EVO240 and another 120mm. WHERE IS THE PROBLEM?

Thank you so mucj in advance. I am using Water for cooling for about a year now, have 6 completely different systems, different pumps(3 pumps), 2 blocks and 4 rads. Alos, with delidded 3570k I got more temps that i have with un-delided. I know i Am doing something very worng but what?

I had one chinese pump which is already dead and now im using this DCP 2.2. How can I measure the water flow?


----------



## unequalteck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> wot case is that?


it's corsair carbide 400R


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> it's corsair carbide 400R


oh..didn't know u could attach a 360rad on the front..


----------



## unequalteck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> oh..didn't know u could attach a 360rad on the front..


haha, my casing raped by me. DVD bay and HDD tray gone


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The blades on NB-eloops do *NOT* stuck up at all !!!
> Where do you get your information from ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least the B12-3 ones that I have don't.....and to be honest I can't image any others in the range do either.


This. I use the B12-3's in pull on my EK XT240 and have no issues with the alleged,"sagging". Quiet and looks sexy


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> I am wondering where is the problem... My water in system is less than 10° above the ambient, what else could be a reason for bad temps? Contact of a block on a chip? But the block is very tightened. I have tested 4 different thermal pastes like, Ceramique, AS5, MX-2, CLU and temps have never changed. Can i blame the pump for bad flow ? I have been using DC 2.2 with 2 blocks, EK wave, EK Supreme LT(and LTX), EK rad 120 XT, Airplex EVO240 and another 120mm. WHERE IS THE PROBLEM?
> 
> Thank you so mucj in advance. I am using Water for cooling for about a year now, have 6 completely different systems, different pumps(3 pumps), 2 blocks and 4 rads. Alos, with delidded 3570k I got more temps that i have with un-delided. I know i Am doing something very worng but what?
> 
> I had one chinese pump which is already dead and now im using this DCP 2.2. How can I measure the water flow?


I think you misunderstood me. I wouldn't consider 47C on load a bad temp at all. Seems like your loop is doing its job well. You are going to be hard pressed to get it too much lower than that even if you add more rads.

The water temp sounds right, I'd expect it to run between 30 and 35 with your ambient temp.

Your contact between block and die is good or else you'd hit much much higher temps than 40s, like approaching the temp shutoff range.

You would need to add a flow meter to you loop to measure flow. I don't think you need to worry about low flow tho.

What kind of temp are you looking for? What is the over clock you are running?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I'm going with the Photon 170 res/D5 pump combo.
> 
> What are your thoughts on the Swiftech MCP35x res attachment? If you read the reviews on that link on FrozenCPU, almost all of them are negative reviews due to cracking/leaking of the res. Such a shame, because I would have picked that up ASAP considering the MCP35x is a better pump than the D5.


If you really want the MCP35X you could do what I am doing. I bought this plus this plus this and this. All you have to do is put the male to male fitting on top of the pump and screw the pump on top of that.

This guy did the same thing. Look at his post here.


----------



## dervladimir

@*Bucshman*
nice build!.. thank with idea with pump heatsink and my advice to you... turn front radiator so that tubes were on top, it is recommended and in fact it more better


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> If you really want the MCP35X you could do what I am doing. I bought this plus this plus this and this. All you have to do is put the male to male fitting on top of the pump and screw the pump on top of that.
> 
> This guy did the same thing. Look at his post here.


BP has a sort of premade version of that already. THIS version connects directly with a D-Plug and THIS version connects with the Dual G1/4 connector. And they also have the upgrade kit HERE to make it look nicer.

I do like the idea of using the heatsink though

Actually i think that Upgrade Kit's meant for use with a regular BP DDC Top.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I'm going with the Photon 170 res/D5 pump combo.
> 
> What are your thoughts on the Swiftech MCP35x res attachment? If you read the reviews on that link on FrozenCPU, almost all of them are negative reviews due to cracking/leaking of the res. Such a shame, because I would have picked that up ASAP considering the MCP35x is a better pump than the D5.


We had some problems with the first production batch due to bad lamination. We have since resolved this issue. I've used the revised version of this reservoir myself and didn't have any issues with it.


----------



## Mr357

I've been having trouble getting a good picture, but I guess this one will suffice.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> If you really want the MCP35X you could do what I am doing. I bought this plus this plus this and this. All you have to do is put the male to male fitting on top of the pump and screw the pump on top of that.
> 
> This guy did the same thing. Look at his post here.


Thanks!









However, I believe the guy that did the same thing as you is using a different res, correct? The one you linked me two says its 270mm in length, while his looks a bit smaller. The reason I mention this is because I have reason to believe that a 270mm res would be a little too large for my Corsair 750D. (Which is why I was originally considering the XSPC Photon 170 over the 270...)


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, I believe the guy that did the same thing as you is using a different res, correct? The one you linked me two says its 270mm in length, while his looks a bit smaller. The reason I mention this is because I have reason to believe that a 270mm res would be a little too large for my Corsair 750D. (Which is why I was originally considering the XSPC Photon 170 over the 270...)


That is correct. I bought the 270mm because I wanted it. You can buy any size res you want.


----------



## natsu2014

Can anybody tell me if simple fan controller like fc5v2 will be able to read flow and temperature or do I really need aquaero for this?


----------



## VSG

Flow of what? Coolant in a water loop?


----------



## natsu2014

Yeah, coolant. Been wondering if I can use fan controller other than aquaero for all that


----------



## VSG

You can get a dedicated flow meter with readout panel such as this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36619

So you can then get a less expensive fan controller if you need to.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Yeah, coolant. Been wondering if I can use fan controller other than aquaero for all that


Typically you would buy a small instrument that goes in the middle of a run of tubing. It then connects to your board via a fan header and allows you to monitor the flow rate of your loop.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16903/ex-tub-1371/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Flow_Sensor_-_Matte_Black_BP-FS-CLBKMBK.html?tl=g30c101s457#blank


----------



## natsu2014

I already ordered flow meter from bitspower as I finally want to finish my loop with the end of the year. So is the aquaero my only option? Want to make sure before I order it. Been looking at LT and PRO for a few days and I don't know if I ever be able to use half of what it offers. But damn it looks great


----------



## VSG

Ya but something like that needs an adapter to convert rpm to flow rate.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well if you're gonna get an Aquaero, might as well wait for the 6 to be released. It literally should be out in a matter of days.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well if you're gonna get an Aquaero, might as well wait for the 6 to be released. It literally should be out in a matter of days.


The 6 isn't a replacement for the 5. It is an addition to the lineup. Being more expensive.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I already ordered flow meter from bitspower as I finally want to finish my loop with the end of the year. So is the aquaero my only option? Want to make sure before I order it. Been looking at LT and PRO for a few days and I don't know if I ever be able to use half of what it offers. But damn it looks great


Koolance makes an adapter like I mentioned which connects your bitspower flow meter to a motherboard fan header. You can use your motherboard software to read out the flow rate then. Only thing is that you can't really use it if you have a program running on a single monitor on full screen.


----------



## natsu2014

I just want something that will do the job. Aquaero 5 PRO will be enough for me I think.
Just noticed that this thing can be watercooled... Should I consider buying it (water block) or will it run fine with stock heatsink?
Just 3 fans, flow sensor and temperature sensor with possible future upgrades


----------



## kpoeticg

Well that's why i suggested the 6. With the 5, it's usually highly recommended to watercool it. The 6 doesn't even really need a heatsink. I understand what ur saying tho. It depends how many fans you're running


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I just want something that will do the job. Aquaero 5 PRO will be enough for me I think.
> Just noticed that this thing can be watercooled... Should I consider buying it (water block) or will it run fine with stock heatsink?
> Just 3 fans, flow sensor and temperature sensor with possible future upgrades


You would not need a wb for an Aquero just for that hardware-the stock heatsink will be fine.

You could always add a wb or a poweradjust at a later date, should your system need it.

Have a look here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/12/20/ac-aquaero-5-review-guide-wip/

(XT/Pro same controller more or less-XT has extras and a different 'face')

IMO though, an Aquero would be a waste of money for your needs, there are many other good fan controllers out there that are cheaper and can do the job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well that's why i suggested the 6. With the 5, it's usually highly recommended to watercool it.


This is actually not true.

(and before the trolls come out-yes im selling a new one in the marketplace-nought to hide)

I actually spoke to Sven(Shoggy) around a month ago, and the use of a wb or a Poweradjust are *SOLELY* dependent on what you will be controlling.

Eg, i was told that i could run 2 sets of 3 AP 15s on separate channels( ch 3 and 4), and also run a D5 on ch 1

-the running of the pump will provide NO problems if:

ch 2 is left empty, and or you run your pump constantly at lv 3 upwards.

The wb and the poweradjust allow for more intricate control, such as wanting to run your pump at lower lvs etc
.-fans do not come into the equation, unless you use stupid amounts of fans, they can be used easily without a wb.

Please feel free to contact Aquacomputers to verify the said fact


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> The wb and the poweradjust allow for more intricate control, such as wanting to run your pump at lower lvs etc.


Lowering the speed of fans and pumps is the reason you need the waterblock. The Aquaero 5 uses analog switching and lowering the voltage creates alot of heat which is why people use the waterblock. That's also why the 6 doesn't really need the waterblock, because it uses PWM circuitry

Saying you don't need the waterblock or poweradjust unless you wanna lower the speed of your pump is basically saying you don't need an Aquaero at all. You're pump can run full speed just fine straight off your PSU


----------



## kkorky

You said fans and pump, im saying that you only really need the wb or the poweradjust for more intricate work, such as lowering the pump fully., or using stupid amounts of fans.

Many users would not care about lowering the pump to 0, nor running 30 ap 15s in their rig.

You generalised and i provided the correct info.

As for the fans on a stock heatsink-read here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/12/20/ac-aquaero-5-review-guide-wip/9/.

The wb and the poweradjust can allow for more intricate work, but are *NOT* needed in many situations-simple.


----------



## kpoeticg

You know that the reason martin never finished that review is because he overheated his unit and couldn't use it anymore right?

I'm not saying what's absolutely needed nor am i picking an argument. I said to him that a waterblock is Generally highly recommended. Which is absolutely true. I've seen alot of threads with alot of people that ruined fan headers with much less than 30 fans.

And usually the issues people have with screwing up their unit, for some reason, tends to be AP-15's. Dunno why

Also, saying outright that it's perfectly fine to run a D5 on one channel and 6 AP-15's split between 2 other channels with no block or poweradjust, and then stating that you provided the correct info is extremely misleading.

People have destroyed Aquaero's with less-Simple


----------



## Kenshiro 26

Alright guys, about to pull the trigger.

Looking for last minute suggestions and alternatives to what I have on the shopping list.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> Alright guys, about to pull the trigger.
> 
> Looking for last minute suggestions and alternatives to what I have on the shopping list.


Those Silverstone's are only mediocre fans, but otherwise that list looks great!


----------



## Kenshiro 26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Those Silverstone's are only mediocre fans, but otherwise that list looks great!


What about the AP-123 series fans as a substitue?

I was eyeing those more than the 122's, as they go better with the color scheme of the build, but Frozen CPU didn't have a page listing for the AP-123 series.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> Alright guys, about to pull the trigger.
> 
> Looking for last minute suggestions and alternatives to what I have on the shopping list.


I would go with bigger tube TBH
going from 1/2 OD to 5/8 OD, the difference is massive on the bend
its hard to get a kink as well...


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> What about the AP-123 series fans as a substitue?
> 
> I was eyeing those more than the 122's, as they go better with the color scheme of the build, but Frozen CPU didn't have a page listing for the AP-123 series.


If Sythe GT's would fit aesthetically, you can't go wrong with those. Besides GT's, Noisblocker's are the only good rad fans I know of that can be had for less than Corsair's or Noctua's.


----------



## brandon6199

Still undecided on a pump/res combo.

Any idea why I can't find any reviews of this res/pump combo? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21480/ex-pmp-263/XSPC_Photon_170_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_D5_Vario.html

I'm very interested in it, but skeptical because I'm having a hard time finding anyone that's purchased/used this...


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Still undecided on a pump/res combo.
> 
> Any idea why I can't find any reviews of this res/pump combo? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21480/ex-pmp-263/XSPC_Photon_170_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_D5_Vario.html
> 
> I'm very interested in it, but skeptical because I'm having a hard time finding anyone that's purchased/used this...


You might try looking for reviews on the reservoir by itself. That pump has been tested and reviewed countless times already.

Here are two reviews of the Photon:
http://www.thinkcomputers.org/xspc-photon-270-tube-reservoir-review/5/
http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-photon-270-glass-tube-reservoir-review/


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You might try looking for reviews on the reservoir by itself. That pump has been tested and reviewed countless times already.
> 
> Here are two reviews of the Photon:
> http://www.thinkcomputers.org/xspc-photon-270-tube-reservoir-review/5/
> http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-photon-270-glass-tube-reservoir-review/


Thanks. I wonder if that fill port on the top of the Photon can be converted into a inlet, having the coolant flow in from the top rather than having to route a tube all the way to the bottom... I feel as if there would be quite a bit of restriction having the inlet and outlet ports on the bottom of the res, I'd rather have coolant flowing in from the top and exiting from the bottom.

Does anyone know if this is possible on the Photon?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thanks. I wonder if that fill port on the top of the Photon can be converted into a inlet, having the coolant flow in from the top rather than having to route a tube all the way to the bottom... I feel as if there would be quite a bit of restriction having the inlet and outlet ports on the bottom of the res, I'd rather have coolant flowing in from the top and exiting from the bottom.
> 
> Does anyone know if this is possible on the Photon?


I don't think so. Because if you set it up that way how would you fill it? You would have to set a fill port elsewhere and that would kind of defeat the purpose of the reservoir in the first place.


----------



## VSG

A rotary Y-fitting can enable you to split the top port on your res into both an inlet as well as a fill port.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> Alright guys, about to pull the trigger.
> 
> Looking for last minute suggestions and alternatives to what I have on the shopping list.


Does EK not sell a PWM pump/res combo instead of buying them separately?

Edit: I guess not in D5. Thought there was.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't think so. Because if you set it up that way how would you fill it? You would have to set a fill port elsewhere and that would kind of defeat the purpose of the reservoir in the first place.


My thoughts exactly. However, after some research, I found that they do provide an adapter for the top fillport to convert it to G1/4" and use as a return inlet.

http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/M20x15-to-G14-Reservoir-Fill-Cap-Adapter-Chrome_28945.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33562

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13539/ex-tub-943/XSPC_M20_to_G14_Fillport_-_Black_Chrome.html

Any ideas on how to fill the res if you convert the top port into a G1/4" and use it as a return for the coolant? Surely there must be a solution for this if XSPC manufactured this part knowing that some customers prefer the top port as an inlet rather than a fill port. I find the only issue with this res is that both the inlets and outlets are on the bottom of the reservoir, which would cause some restriction with routing the tubing with my build.This would be the perfect res for my build if I could get this figured out...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> My thoughts exactly. However, after some research, I found that they do provide an adapter for the top fillport to convert it to G1/4" and use as a return inlet.
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/M20x15-to-G14-Reservoir-Fill-Cap-Adapter-Chrome_28945.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33562
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13539/ex-tub-943/XSPC_M20_to_G14_Fillport_-_Black_Chrome.html
> 
> Any ideas on how to fill the res if you convert the top port into a G1/4" and use it as a return for the coolant? Surely there must be a solution for this if XSPC manufactured this part knowing that some customers prefer the top port as an inlet rather than a fill port. I find the only issue with this res is that both the inlets and outlets are on the bottom of the reservoir, which would cause some restriction with routing the tubing with my build.This would be the perfect res for my build if I could get this figured out...


Geggeg up above said something about a rotary Y fitting. I would look into that as a possible solution.


----------



## brandon6199

Just noticed that after I wrote my post. Looking into that now. Thanks for the recommendation geggeg.


----------



## solar0987

Or you could just turn it upside down put the 2 holes at top
Problem solved!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Or you could just turn it upside down put the 2 holes at top
> Problem solved!


Not really,the top port is not 1/4",you will need a reducer.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Or you could just turn it upside down put the 2 holes at top
> Problem solved!


The D5 pump is mounted on the bottom of the res.


----------



## KingJames

My fist go at watercooling.







I've been lurking on these forums for a long time now. Thanks for all the indirect help you've all given me.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingJames*
> 
> My fist go at watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been lurking on these forums for a long time now. Thanks for all the indirect help you've all given me.


LeBron is that you!? How bout 50 points a night!


----------



## jdk90

Hey guys, I'm going to attempt my first custom loop which will mostly consist of EK parts. However I can't decide on a 360 radiator and any recommendations would be great.
I have of course considered EK's own radiators, but as there are so many options out there I wanted to ask here first.. I also think XSPC's AX series radiators look nice.


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm going to attempt my first custom loop which will mostly consist of EK parts. However I can't decide on a 360 radiator and any recommendations would be great.
> I have of course considered EK's own radiators, but as there are so many options out there I wanted to ask here first.. I also think XSPC's AX series radiators look nice.


I've always liked the xspc ex series, can't say I've used the AX series but I must agree they look quite sexy.

Quick question, the inlet on the cpu block is always the one toward the center correct? Is it possible to run a loop with the inlet/outlet the wrong way around? I took my loop apart today and had to replan it because I noticed I was running it the wrong way around, I'm surprised I was able to run it that way at all. I switched it around for the center hole to be inlet and lowered fan rpm from 1400 to 1000 and I'm getting the same temps. Running even quieter now


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> Alright guys, about to pull the trigger.
> 
> Looking for last minute suggestions and alternatives to what I have on the shopping list.


I'll be waiting for your future updates putting all those parts to use







.

BUT. Add that $29.99 290X backplate to your cart or you'll surely regret not doing it sooner or later. Considering your getting all the loop in one go and not doing it part by part like me 30 dollars really doesn't make that much of a difference but the backplate will make a massive aesthetical difference. I don't know about performance but if it can make the slightest difference it's worth it. The only reason I'll be getting a backplate is for looks ^^.
If you're not convinced by the idea of ditching an additionnal $30 for a metal plate just open up your case and take a look at that 290X'es PCB. No more than 30 seconds will be needed. Picture your 700 odd dollar worth loop with that PCB sticking out in the middle







.

PS: didn't take the time to check your signature so if you have an R-ATX or one of those awesome side mount Silverstone cases forgot about what I just said it won't matter ^^.


----------



## KingJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> LeBron is that you!? How bout 50 points a night!


I have a better idea. I'm taking my talents to build awesome PCs.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Does EK not sell a PWM pump/res combo instead of buying them separately?
> 
> Edit: I guess not in D5. Thought there was.


That post u just quoted, he has the EK D5 X-Res in his shopping cart, with 655 PWM in the title. That means that FrozenCPU gives u the option of choosing the PWM version of the pump

D5 and 655 are the same pump


----------



## Kenshiro 26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I'll be waiting for your future updates putting all those parts to use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> BUT. Add that $29.99 290X backplate to your cart or you'll surely regret not doing it sooner or later. Considering your getting all the loop in one go and not doing it part by part like me 30 dollars really doesn't make that much of a difference but the backplate will make a massive aesthetical difference. I don't know about performance but if it can make the slightest difference it's worth it. The only reason I'll be getting a backplate is for looks ^^.
> If you're not convinced by the idea of ditching an additionnal $30 for a metal plate just open up your case and take a look at that 290X'es PCB. No more than 30 seconds will be needed. Picture your 700 odd dollar worth loop with that PCB sticking out in the middle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I had the back plate on my list.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> I had the back plate on my list.


oh sorry then. It's just a weird website then I guess.
Here that would mean you can add the backplate for $30, not that it's already in your cart.
Here if it was in your cart the price tags would be aligned with the others on the right side









EDIT: nope, it is a logical site in the end. I opened the calculator and added everything together it brought it up to a total of $754.68 without counting the backplate. 754.68 is your carts total. So no, on that screenshot at least, you won't be ordering the backplate.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I've been having trouble getting a good picture, but I guess this one will suffice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dat fish-eye








Have you thought about getting a sleeved extension for your 24 pin cable? I can recommend the bitfenix if you don't mind the paracord style of fabric.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I would go with bigger tube TBH
> going from 1/2 OD to 5/8 OD, the difference is massive on the bend
> its hard to get a kink as well...


Agreed, never going with 10 - 13 tubing again. Too thin. Ordered 13-19 tubing now so will have to see how that looks. But 10 or 11 - 16 would be a great middle-ground with a thick wall. (don't forget to change the fittings if you decide to change tubing)

EDIT: sizes in mm
Here are the imperial sizes:
10 - 13 mm = 3/8 - 1/2"
11 - 16 mm = 7/16 - 5/8" ("weird" size, useful for use on 1/2 barbs without clamps)
13 - 19 mm = 1/2 - 3/4"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingJames*
> 
> My fist go at watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been lurking on these forums for a long time now. Thanks for all the indirect help you've all given me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice loop. That photon res is so clean. I would've gone with white tubing though, the white coolant looks a bit greyish but could be the camera / lighting.
I love how you routed the longest tube around the back. Very nice


----------



## Kenshiro 26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> EDIT: nope, it is a logical site in the end. I opened the calculator and added everything together it brought it up to a total of $754.68 without counting the backplate. 754.68 is your carts total. So no, on that screenshot at least, you won't be ordering the backplate.


The back plate is added, the waterblock rings up at $118.99 without it.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> The back plate is added, the waterblock rings up at $118.99 without it.


oh my bad then. sorry

PS: so that website really is terribly designed too


----------



## Kenshiro 26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> PS: so that website really is terribly designed too


----------



## KingJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Very nice loop. That photon res is so clean. I would've gone with white tubing though, the white coolant looks a bit greyish but could be the camera / lighting.
> I love how you routed the longest tube around the back. Very nice


Yea I took the pictures with my HTC One S in my dark dorm room.
Thanks for the compliments.


----------



## mxthunder

finally got around to changing out my green tubing back to black after installing my new mobo.
the first few pics are just before and after from my cell phone, the rest are dark shots with my wifes DSLR


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> finally got around to changing out my green tubing back to black after installing my new mobo.
> the first few pics are just before and after from my cell phone, the rest are dark shots with my wifes DSLR


How old are those Labtech speakers? Like 15 years?


----------



## Willi

wish I had better photos to post, but I got a dead Nikon D7000 waiting to be sent to maintenance, so the phone camera will suffice







My first go at acrylic. Mounted a 360 rad on the front since I don't plan on X-Fire or SLI anytime soon...
Some bends didn't turn out as nice as I'd like but there were absolutely NO angle fittings in there...

Also, the acrylic I used was bought locally (I live in Brazil and chances are that if I imported, our mail system would manage to destroy them) so its not as transparent as I'd like and the walls are rather thick, but it turned out much better than what I expected.

Just to think I'll never have to worry about plasticizer again....


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> finally got around to changing out my green tubing back to black after installing my new mobo.
> the first few pics are just before and after from my cell phone, the rest are dark shots with my wifes DSLR
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PiCS


That Green Tubing looked OK. But that Black Tubing looks wayyyyyyy better. Nice job!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> wish I had better photos to post, but I got a dead Nikon D7000 waiting to be sent to maintenance, so the phone camera will suffice
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PiCS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first go at acrylic. Mounted a 360 rad on the front since I don't plan on X-Fire or SLI anytime soon...
> Some bends didn't turn out as nice as I'd like but there were absolutely NO angle fittings in there...
> 
> Also, the acrylic I used was bought locally (I live in Brazil and chances are that if I imported, our mail system would manage to destroy them) so its not as transparent as I'd like and the walls are rather thick, but it turned out much better than what I expected.
> 
> Just to think I'll never have to worry about plasticizer again....


Nice job with the acrylic. I really like that u didn't use any angled fittings. Make sure u post some more pics when u get ur camera fixed


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How old are those Labtech speakers? Like 15 years?


lol probably at least 10. hey they still work and sound pretty good. Some SP2500's are probably in order though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That Green Tubing looked OK. But that Black Tubing looks wayyyyyyy better. Nice job!!


thanks!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> lol probably at least 10. hey they still work and sound pretty good. Some SP2500's are probably in order though.
> thanks!


I had the same set in high school, which was ~ 12 years ago. I am surprised yours are still alive and kicking.


----------



## Fonne

Is there any in this club that is using a Alphacool UT60 280mm in push/pull to cool both CPU + Graphic ? - Is thinking about only using a single UT60 280mm in Push/pull to cool both my i5-3570k + a R9-290 but dont know if it will work with only ~800 rpm fans.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any in this club that is using a Alphacool UT60 280mm in push/pull to cool both CPU + Graphic ? - Is thinking about only using a single UT60 280mm in Push/pull to cool both my i5-3570k + a R9-290 but dont know if it will work with only ~800 rpm fans.


There's a table in this thread somewhere which shows the wattage certain rads can disperse. Can't look for it right now because the oven needs me









EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Here's a chart some1 on here put together based off the data on martinsliquidlab. It's Watts dissipated at different RPM's for different Alphacool rads


If that table is somewhat accurate then it won't be nearly enough I'm afraid. At least if I'm interpreting the table correctly


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is there any in this club that is using a Alphacool UT60 280mm in push/pull to cool both CPU + Graphic ? - Is thinking about only using a single UT60 280mm in Push/pull to cool both my i5-3570k + a R9-290 but dont know if it will work with only ~800 rpm fans.


Yeah, you will need more rad than that. I would do 2 240/280s if I were you. With low RPM Fans, you will definitely need more rads....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> There's a table in this thread somewhere which shows the wattage certain rads can disperse. Can't look for it right now because the oven needs me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> If that table is somewhat accurate then it won't be nearly enough I'm afraid. At least if I'm interpreting the table correctly


The charts don't lie


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New gpu setup. CSQ, I can live with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a CSQ quad bridge, just need to find the o-rings in the several baggies I got. Might pick up a clear bridge and polish out the frost later on


Not worried about the crossfire issue?


----------



## phillyd




----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I should imagine they are as good,they are a nice looking rad too.


I can attest to this, they are really nice and the performance is superb. I dont have an XTX to compare but I have done a few benches against the XSPC480 and the performance on the PE is better. I have to do my last test with a single set of fans to test just push (so far I have tested in push pull) but overall just one of these is enough to keep my dual 770's GTX under hovering around 38-40C on full load! I'm wrapping up re doing my loop with rigid tubing hence why I haven't posted a review but so far my only complaint is that I wish the radiator had the EK logo on the side like the XSPC rads have it but otherwise it is a very nice rad.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm going to attempt my first custom loop which will mostly consist of EK parts. However I can't decide on a 360 radiator and any recommendations would be great.
> I have of course considered EK's own radiators, but as there are so many options out there I wanted to ask here first.. I also think XSPC's AX series radiators look nice.


The new PE radiators are very similar to the AX series, the only thing I like from the AX that the PE dont have is the way the XSPC logo is branded on the radiator. The EK's do not have the EK logo on the side. The EK's are cheaper than the AX's I replaced both my AX480's with PE 480's.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


These are the kits that Monsoon is sending me.
PPC and FCPU,if I remember correctly,are doing these as rental kits also for those that don't want to spring for the kit to own.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Obvious question is when do they come out, and how much? ^_^


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## VSG

Nice, the rental kit idea makes these more appealing.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> The new PE radiators are very similar to the AX series, the only thing I like from the AX that the PE dont have is the way the XSPC logo is branded on the radiator. The EK's do not have the EK logo on the side. The EK's are cheaper than the AX's I replaced both my AX480's with PE 480's.


What is the performance difference between your old set up with two ax480 and two pe480s?


----------



## phillyd

Price and release date is coming soon


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obvious question is when do they come out, and how much? ^_^
Click to expand...

Is secret,I have not had the go ahead to say yet.
It will be affordable tho,even to buy the kit outright


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


when and how much????


----------



## Anoxy

I'm confused about fans. I ordered Scythe AP-15s (1850 RPM), but I'm seeing that they make 3000, 4250, and 5400 RPM versions as well. Does more RPM = better? Louder?

Also, do you guys put mesh filters on all of your rad fans?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm confused about fans. I ordered Scythe AP-15s (1850 RPM), but I'm seeing that they make 3000, 4250, and 5400 RPM versions as well. Does more RPM = better? Louder?


The answer to your question very much depends on what is your goal. More rpm more air moved through the radiator but also more noise. Most users usually seek a balance between performance and noise and go for the AP-15. But if you want more air moved at the cost of more noise you can go for the higher rpm versions. One tricky however. GT (all models) in theory are voltage regulated (not PWM fan) but I remember seeing someone that figure out that the hardware of the higher rpm models is actually capable of PWM while the AP-15 and AP-14 are not. Is is just a matter of some soldering in the higher rpm models to obtain a fully capable GT with pwm capability.

Hope that helps


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm confused about fans. I ordered Scythe AP-15s (1850 RPM), but I'm seeing that they make 3000, 4250, and 5400 RPM versions as well. Does more RPM = better? Louder?
> 
> Also, do you guys put mesh filters on all of your rad fans?


There is also a 2150 RPM version. I got mine through the group buy a while back but I remember seeing them being sold at FCPU but looks like they are no longer available there. I've only ever had 4 running at the same time and they have a very nice performance to noise ratio.


----------



## ginger_nuts

The Monsoon kit looks a lot like an apprentice copper pipe work kit I got many years ago









I have a feeling my kit costed a few dollars more mind you, it is a well known brand Rothenberger.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What is the performance difference between your old set up with two ax480 and two pe480s?


Coolant temperatures were 4C~6C cooler on the PE's vs the AX's on push pull with fans at 50%

I'm looking to test just push on them once I finish laying out my rigid tubing.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> when and how much????


IKR?!?!










I kinda want to just start throwing money at my monitor in the hope that it reaches them in time to get a first-run kit in blue!
This will make by new Wet Bench build so much easier!

Thanks - T


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Coolant temperatures were 4C~6C cooler on the PE's vs the AX's on push pull with fans at 50%
> 
> I'm looking to test just push on them once I finish laying out my rigid tubing.


4-6C difference in water temperature between two similar radiators? That doesn't make sense. The difference should be more like 0-2C.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Coolant temperatures were 4C~6C cooler on the PE's vs the AX's on push pull with fans at 50%
> 
> I'm looking to test just push on them once I finish laying out my rigid tubing.


4-6 degrees is huge! Just bought the ax360 (white). If the PE series came in white I would of gone for that.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> There is also a 2150 RPM version. I got mine through the group buy a while back but I remember seeing them being sold at FCPU but looks like they are no longer available there. I've only ever had 4 running at the same time and they have a very nice performance to noise ratio.


I grabbed 6 AP-00's from TankGuys. There's a thread here on OCN dedicated to it, that's how i found it =)


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*


Are they going to release a new line of rigid fittings as well if I may know?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah they are. They're also releasing barbs seperately that you can use with the current compression fittings they sell


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The answer to your question very much depends on what is your goal. More rpm more air moved through the radiator but also more noise. Most users usually seek a balance between performance and noise and go for the AP-15. But if you want more air moved at the cost of more noise you can go for the higher rpm versions. One tricky however. GT (all models) in theory are voltage regulated (not PWM fan) but I remember seeing someone that figure out that the hardware of the higher rpm models is actually capable of PWM while the AP-15 and AP-14 are not. Is is just a matter of some soldering in the higher rpm models to obtain a fully capable GT with pwm capability.
> 
> Hope that helps


Indeed, just need to solder an extra PWM wire to the board and get a 4 pin PWM connector. That simple.

As far as the high-speed GT's are concerned: I very much doubt you will run them at their max speed a lot because they are loud. I had the 4250's . Really really loud. With PWM I kept them at their lowest of 1200ish rpm IIRC. Noise was mediocre at those speeds but really, you lose a lot of airflow due to that giant motorhub. Unless you need some extreme airflow and SP just get the lower speed ones.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 4-6C difference in water temperature between two similar radiators? That doesn't make sense. The difference should be more like 0-2C.










.......yeah, that sounds a bit off......did he mean CPU temp?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .......yeah, that sounds a bit off......did he mean CPU temp?


Those were coolant temps but I agree the numbers did seem off at first and were surprising so I ran a few benches to be sure. However I'm still testing, Im looking to get a full data set to remove any data points that might skew the results since I still have the AX480 on hand to do more testing, like I said I want to have solid data on both Push pull and push for both rad sets.

But basically my testing method was run valley on max on SLI and recorded the temps when they stopped climbing after a period of 45mins swap rad and do the same. I didnt bother with CPU loads since on none of my past runs the CPU has not been capable of creating such a big delta in coolant temps as the GPU's. However if you want to get data on that I can.

If this pesky silicone insert would stop getting stuck in my Primochil acrylic tubing I would be done with the routes and could have finish testing all of these.


----------



## phillyd

The new fittings for Monsoon hard line will simply be new barbs that work with the outer part of the normal, carbon fiber Mod Toys and chain gun fittings. The barbs will be on sale on their own as well as full fitting sets. FCPU and PPC's are almost definitely going to offer these kits for rental, as it doesn't make sense for most to purchase them.


----------



## LunaP

Quick question for you guys, finalizing on the build parts and wanted to know what you guys would suggest on coolant/dyes for primochill tubing. I've heard horror stories of corrosion/sludge, etc depending on brands and metal types mixed. Looking to go either Red or Blue cooling fluid with clear tubing. Which stands out the most to light etc and glistens (if not all).

Also I'll be getting SR-1 480 rad's w/ 1/4" fittings, as far as barb/tubbing size go, I'm not looking to get ubber thick so whats the best ratio for these?

Appreciate it.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quick question for you guys, finalizing on the build parts and wanted to know what you guys would suggest on coolant/dyes for primochill tubing. I've heard horror stories of corrosion/sludge, etc depending on brands and metal types mixed. Looking to go either Red or Blue cooling fluid with clear tubing. Which stands out the most to light etc and glistens (if not all).
> 
> Also I'll be getting SR-1 480 rad's w/ 1/4" fittings, as far as barb/tubbing size go, I'm not looking to get ubber thick so whats the best ratio for these?
> 
> Appreciate it.


Mayhem's pastels seem to be a good choice from what I've read.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The new fittings for Monsoon hard line will simply be new barbs that work with the outer part of the normal, carbon fiber Mod Toys and chain gun fittings. The barbs will be on sale on their own as well as full fitting sets. FCPU and PPC's are almost definitely going to offer these kits for rental, as it doesn't make sense for most to purchase them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The new fittings for Monsoon hard line will simply be new barbs that work with the outer part of the normal, carbon fiber Mod Toys and chain gun fittings. The barbs will be on sale on their own as well as full fitting sets. FCPU and PPC's are almost definitely going to offer these kits for rental, as it doesn't make sense for most to purchase them.


A smart move with the rentals,not many would get the kind of usage to make it viable to purchase outright.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quick question for you guys, finalizing on the build parts and wanted to know what you guys would suggest on coolant/dyes for primochill tubing. I've heard horror stories of corrosion/sludge, etc depending on brands and metal types mixed. Looking to go either Red or Blue cooling fluid with clear tubing. Which stands out the most to light etc and glistens (if not all).
> 
> Also I'll be getting SR-1 480 rad's w/ 1/4" fittings, as far as barb/tubbing size go, I'm not looking to get ubber thick so whats the best ratio for these?
> 
> Appreciate it.


Primochill fixed their problems with tube. Their Advance LRT tube has a great track record so far. I haven't seen any complaints about plasticizer with it which has made it the recommended brand of soft tube.

As far as fluid, do you want opaque or translucent fluid? I am a Mayhems fan personally and would say get Pastel for opaque or for translucent do X1 or DI water + dye + kill coil.

If you go with a premix/concentrate, depending on how close the colors are to what you want, you may want some extra dye to modify the color to your liking. With Pastel you can use white + dye to get pretty much any color you'd like


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Mayhem's pastels seem to be a good choice from what I've read.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Primochill fixed their problems with tube. Their Advance LRT tube has a great track record so far. I haven't seen any complaints about plasticizer with it which has made it the recommended brand of soft tube.
> 
> As far as fluid, do you want opaque or translucent fluid? I am a Mayhems fan personally and would say get Pastel for opaque or for translucent do X1 or DI water + dye + kill coil.
> 
> If you go with a premix/concentrate, depending on how close the colors are to what you want, you may want some extra dye to modify the color to your liking. With Pastel you can use white + dye to get pretty much any color you'd like


What's the difference between opaque and translucent?

If it helps whichever has more of that sexy glisten to it vs just solid flow as if you're looking @ just plain red tubing.

As far as the coloring it doesn't come as one? So you have to mix it ultimately? Are there any guides for this or do the instructions come with it.

As for corrosion are there specific metals that shouldn't be mixed within the loop? Appreciate the insight as again this will be my first ever custom loop.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What's the difference between opaque and translucent?
> 
> If it helps whichever has more of that sexy glisten to it vs just solid flow as if you're looking @ just plain red tubing.
> 
> As far as the coloring it doesn't come as one? So you have to mix it ultimately? Are there any guides for this or do the instructions come with it.
> 
> As for corrosion are there specific metals that shouldn't be mixed within the loop? Appreciate the insight as again this will be my first ever custom loop.


Opaque is you cannot see thru

Translucent is you can see thru


They do come in specific colors, but say you wanted a dark red, most of the reds are brighter, sometimes almost pink. So adding some dark red dye will deepen the red for you. This step is totally not necessary, just a preference thing.

Aluminium is the main one that causes problems with other metals. Some fluids (Mayhems Pastel and X1 for example) do have anti-corrosives that are supposed to help, but copper, nickel, and brass are usually all fine together.


----------



## Anoxy

opaque = can't see through it (milk)
translucent = can see through it (kool-aid)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Opaque is you cannot see thru
> Translucent is you can see thru
> 
> They do come in specific colors, but say you wanted a dark red, most of the reds are brighter, sometimes almost pink. So adding some dark red dye will deepen the red for you. This step is totally not necessary, just a preference thing.
> 
> Aluminium is the main one that causes problems with other metals. Some fluids (Mayhems Pastel and X1 for example) do have anti-corrosives that are supposed to help, but copper, nickel, and brass are usually all fine together.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> opaque = can't see through it (milk)
> translucent = can see through it (kool-aid)


Thanks so much! Do you guys have any comparison photos of some builds using both? Would love to see.

Also since I'm on it, debating between the XSBC and EK CPU blocks (the ones w/ the LED lights) and also the XSBC GPU blocks (w/ LED lights as well) I've seen copper/brass versions as well but without lights and I really DO love the aesthetic value the lights bring, would either of these be good choices or would the copper/brass versions be that much more noticeable in temps?


----------



## Anoxy

What components even use aluminum? I see that mentioned as problematic quite a bit, but I didn't see anything with aluminum in it when I was shopping for parts.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thanks so much! Do you guys have any comparison photos of some builds using both? Would love to see.
> 
> Also since I'm on it, debating between the XSBC and EK CPU blocks (the ones w/ the LED lights) and also the XSBC GPU blocks (w/ LED lights as well) I've seen copper/brass versions as well but without lights and I really DO love the aesthetic value the lights bring, would either of these be good choices or would the copper/brass versions be that much more noticeable in temps?


Pastel Red

Translucent Red

I don't think I've seen a brass XSPC CPU block? But that raystorm is one of the best bangs for the buck.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What components even use aluminum? I see that mentioned as problematic quite a bit, but I didn't see anything with aluminum in it when I was shopping for parts.


It is becoming less and less of a deal than it was before. Usually it is the companies that do not make watercooling parts that decide to do something watercooling related that use it because it is cheaper than copper for example. The Asus MB armor with the blocks on it use aluminum (it is coated but the fittings can scrape off the coating when screwed in). If you are buying from EK, XSPC, AquaComputer, Bitspower, Koolance, Swiftech, and all the other companies we discuss in here on a regular basis, then you are usually fine


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Pastel Red
> 
> Translucent Red
> 
> I don't think I've seen a brass XSPC CPU block? But that raystorm is one of the best bangs for the buck.


Translucent it is o.o

and sorry yeah I meant the raystorm, is it ok to go w/ the LED? or is that sacrificing temps at all?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thanks so much! Do you guys have any comparison photos of some builds using both? Would love to see.
> 
> Also since I'm on it, debating between the XSBC and EK CPU blocks (the ones w/ the LED lights) and also the XSBC GPU blocks (w/ LED lights as well) I've seen copper/brass versions as well but without lights and I really DO love the aesthetic value the lights bring, would either of these be good choices or would the copper/brass versions be that much more noticeable in temps?


You may have missed my edit where I added some pics of the coolants in glasses.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Translucent it is o.o
> 
> and sorry yeah I meant the raystorm, is it ok to go w/ the LED? or is that sacrificing temps at all?


The LED is fine and won't cause any problems or extra heat. If you get the raystorm, I'd suggest making your own LED branch tho. The ones they send you suck. Those blocks look WAY better with 4 LEDs in them as well.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You may have missed my edit where I added some pics of the coolants in glasses.


I think I did, as I'm back and forth going through build logs, threads ,looking @ parts and googling up pro's / con's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The LED is fine and won't cause any problems or extra heat. If you get the raystorm, I'd suggest making your own LED branch tho. The ones they send you suck. Those blocks look WAY better with 4 LEDs in them as well.


Ah is there a tutorial on that or just parts I order?

Also here's my list with a few OR's added to it.

*CPU Block*

XSPC Raystorm

*GPU Block*

XSPC Razor GTX Titan Full Coverage VGA Block - Reference Design
 - Preferred due to lights.

VS

eVGA Hydro copper


*Radiators*

Black Ice GTX Xtreme 480 Radiator - Black x4

Heard nothing but amazing things about these RAD's especially the quality of build.

BUT saw this, is there really a diff or would both accomplish the same @ 1100-1500 RPM?

Black Ice SR1 Low Air Flow Optimized - 480 Radiator - Black


*Tubing*

Primochill LRT Clear

*Dyes/Coolant*

Transluncent - ?? I guess mayhem + what you mentioned, just need to find links.

*Fittings*

Hearing great things about bitspower. What's the ratio between tubing and fittings? I'm looking to go about the same size as the tubes in the translucent photo that was posted.

*Fans*

Looking @ going w/ the GT AP-15's as they appear to have the best rating w/ sound and static pressure vs the corsair SP's which are apparently loud ( but sexy )

I was looking @ cougars but hear the SP is horrible, and the AP-15's look plain like standard stock fans, so unless theres some other fan out there that's not often mentioned that would appeal I'll go w/ the GT 15's. Would love some w/ lights on them though









Anything else I should take into consideration please do let me know.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I think I did, as I'm back and forth going through build logs, threads ,looking @ parts and googling up pro's / con's.
> Ah is there a tutorial on that or just parts I order?
> 
> Also here's my list with a few OR's added to it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *CPU Block*
> 
> XSPC Raystorm
> 
> *GPU Block*
> 
> XSPC Razor GTX Titan Full Coverage VGA Block - Reference Design
> - Preferred due to lights.
> 
> VS
> 
> eVGA Hydro copper
> 
> 
> *Radiators*
> 
> Black Ice GTX Xtreme 480 Radiator - Black x4
> 
> Heard nothing but amazing things about these RAD's especially the quality of build.
> 
> BUT saw this, is there really a diff or would both accomplish the same @ 1100-1500 RPM?
> 
> Black Ice SR1 Low Air Flow Optimized - 480 Radiator - Black
> 
> 
> *Tubing*
> 
> Primochill LRT Clear
> 
> *Dyes/Coolant*
> 
> Transluncent - ?? I guess mayhem + what you mentioned, just need to find links.
> 
> *Fittings*
> 
> Hearing great things about bitspower. What's the ratio between tubing and fittings? I'm looking to go about the same size as the tubes in the translucent photo that was posted.
> 
> *Fans*
> 
> Looking @ going w/ the GT AP-15's as they appear to have the best rating w/ sound and static pressure vs the corsair SP's which are apparently loud ( but sexy )
> 
> I was looking @ cougars but hear the SP is horrible, and the AP-15's look plain like standard stock fans, so unless theres some other fan out there that's not often mentioned that would appeal I'll go w/ the GT 15's. Would love some w/ lights on them though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anything else I should take into consideration please do let me know.


You have to make the LED string, but it is really easy. There are some sleeved LEDs you can buy, but you will have a lot of wires running about and way overpay for it, lol.

There a couple options with fluid. If you want to look at Mayhems, then the X1 is good (already has biocides and inhibitors). It has near DI water performance as well. The X1 shades of red are the *blood red* and the *Red.*

You could also just use DI Water, put in a kill coil, and then get some dye. Dyes are *Red* and *Deep Red*. Of course less dye makes a less intense color than more dye, so you have control over it.

The AP-15s are great fans (my favorite) and I'd recommend them to anyone. The SP120s are good, the Noiseblocker E-Loops are good, really, the Cougars are not that bad either, but definitely a step down from the others listed.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Watercooling nut cases, got a question

Dont mind my fully sick paint skills











Where would one go about fitting a drain line in my soon to be loop?

Im using the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Extreme Acetal with the Bitspower Dual/Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150. I thought about chucking a barb on one of the IN ports on the mod top with maybe 15cm of tubing then sticking a Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Sealing Plug on the end







but Im not to sure on that idea tho









How do you guys do it? Im a n00b at watercooling









Thanks


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You have to make the LED string, but it is really easy. There are some sleeved LEDs you can buy, but you will have a lot of wires running about and way overpay for it, lol.
> 
> There a couple options with fluid. If you want to look at Mayhems, then the X1 is good (already has biocides and inhibitors). It has near DI water performance as well. The X1 shades of red are the *blood red* and the *Red.*
> 
> You could also just use DI Water, put in a kill coil, and then get some dye. Dyes are *Red* and *Deep Red*. Of course less dye makes a less intense color than more dye, so you have control over it.
> 
> The AP-15s are great fans (my favorite) and I'd recommend them to anyone. The SP120s are good, the Noiseblocker E-Loops are good, really, the Cougars are not that bad either, but definitely a step down from the others listed.


Much appreciated.

As for the dyes, I take it that DI Water would be the better way to go since you mentioned the X1 has "near DI water performance" though between the 2 would either be fine or definitely w/ the DI.

As for DI is that short for Distilled? So would I buy distilled separately then get the kill coil and purchase the dye? What's the recommended DI brand if so (if not any)

Thanks for all your help!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Much appreciated.
> 
> As for the dyes, I take it that DI Water would be the better way to go since you mentioned the X1 has "near DI water performance" though between the 2 would either be fine or definitely w/ the DI.
> 
> As for DI is that short for Distilled? So would I buy distilled separately then get the kill coil and purchase the dye? What's the recommended DI brand if so (if not any)
> 
> Thanks for all your help!


Yeah, just distilled water. You can get whatever your local grocery store has and it is fine.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Much appreciated.
> 
> As for the dyes, I take it that DI Water would be the better way to go since you mentioned the X1 has "near DI water performance" though between the 2 would either be fine or definitely w/ the DI.
> 
> As for DI is that short for Distilled? So would I buy distilled separately then get the kill coil and purchase the dye? What's the recommended DI brand if so (if not any)
> 
> Thanks for all your help!


I think DI = de-ionized water. I could be wrong though.
Yes, just buy some distilled water from any market.


----------



## Maximus Knight

U can get AP-15's with PWM from china. They come sleeved too. taobao.com


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> U can get AP-15's with PWM from china. They come sleeved too. taobao.com


To buy anything from taobao.com, you need a sort of middle-man. I use buychina.com but YMMV. Just be careful with buying stuff directly from China.

Jeffinslaw

P.S. Sorry about off-topic.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> U can get AP-15's with PWM from china. They come sleeved too. taobao.com


If you can teach me how to use taobao or lead me to a tutorial I'd greatly appreciate it, long ago I attempted to look but never found a means in, as there were some insane cosplay items I wanted to buy.

*edit*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> To buy anything from taobao.com, you need a sort of middle-man. I use buychina.com but YMMV. Just be careful with buying stuff directly from China.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> P.S. Sorry about off-topic.


If this is the means to enter taobao then THANK YOU for opening the door!


----------



## kpoeticg

AP-15's with PWM? I wonder if they just completely switch out the PCB for a different one...


----------



## Anoxy

In the Mayhem's Dyes descriptions, it says "recommended replacement period: 9-12 months"

Does that just mean I would need to flush my system and re-fill it 9-12 months after dyeing my coolant?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> In the Mayhem's Dyes descriptions, it says "recommended replacement period: 9-12 months"
> 
> Does that just mean I would need to flush my system and re-fill it 9-12 months after dyeing my coolant?


When a product recommends that it's replaced (coolant in this case), I always do a full disassembly of the loop, clean all the blocks and rads, flush it all with clean water, and then fill it up with fresh coolant.

-Zepp


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If this is the means to enter taobao then THANK YOU for opening the door!


Indeed it is! But be careful! I'm not responsible if anything bad happens.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> When a product recommends that it's replaced (coolant in this case), I always do a full disassembly of the loop, clean all the blocks and rads, flush it all with clean water, and then fill it up with fresh coolant.
> 
> -Zepp


Damn, that sounds like a lot of work. Maybe I'll just stick with good ol' distilled water









EDIT: I have a Bitfenix Recon fan controller left over from my previous build. Will that be sufficient for running 5 of my Scythe AP-15s? It says it does 10 Watts per channel.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Damn, that sounds like a lot of work. Maybe I'll just stick with good ol' distilled water


I always do that just to be safe, and catch any corrosion before it gets out of control. Of course you can just empty the loop through a drain, and refill it a few times with distilled water and flush it that way without disassembling the loop







it's a lot less work, but I want to be OCD levels of safe...

-Zepp


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I think DI = de-ionized water. I could be wrong though.
> Yes, just buy some distilled water from any market.


You are technically correct But DI is faster to type than distilled lol


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The AP-15s are great fans (my favorite) and I'd recommend them to anyone. The SP120s are good, the Noiseblocker E-Loops are good, really, the Cougars are not that bad either, but definitely a step down from the others listed.


Odly I just plugged in one of my SP120 Extreme performance (2350 RPM) to test it, though I can't really hear it, I can barely feel any air coming from it either, is this a bad fan or am I missing something with static pressure.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well airflow and static pressure aren't really the same thing. A fan that can push air through a radiator usually won't make a great chassis fan, and the same goes the other way. Gentle Typhoons pretty much suck as chassis fans, but they're amazing at pushing air through a rad.

Static Pressure's more about like the strength of the air than the amount of air
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Damn, that sounds like a lot of work. Maybe I'll just stick with good ol' distilled water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I have a Bitfenix Recon fan controller left over from my previous build. Will that be sufficient for running 5 of my Scythe AP-15s? It says it does 10 Watts per channel.


Yeah a Recon should handle 5 GT's just fine.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well airflow and static pressure aren't really the same thing. A fan that can push air through a radiator usually won't make a great chassis fan, and the same goes the other way. Gentle Typhoons pretty much suck as chassis fans, but they're amazing at pushing air through a rad.
> 
> Static Pressure's more about like the strength of the air than the amount of air
> Yeah a Recon should handle 5 GT's just fine.


Ah ok then, so it should be good? Should I just keep my SP120's or still swap em out w/ GT's I have 4 SP's atm. Returned 4 2 months ago along w/ the Air540.


----------



## kpoeticg

SP120's are great fans too. GT's have a better SP to Noise ratio, but SP120's can move more air than AP-15's can. AP-00's can move more air than SP120's and are much quieter doing it

So basically, if you're happy with how the SP120's sound running full speed, just keep em


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> AP-15's with PWM? I wonder if they just completely switch out the PCB for a different one...


When I was in Japan earlier this year I rmb seeing a couple in the shop. Sofmap


----------



## kpoeticg

It's gotta be something like i said tho right? Cuz Scythe/Nidec only puts the PWM circuitry on AP-29-31's. And those have a much higher RPM so it can't be the PCB from them. How else could you have a AP-15 with PWM unless you stripped the fan down and switched PCB's with like a Helix or something?

I'm just kinda thinking out loud BTW. Kind of intrigued by the idea of PWM AP-15's. Just would love to know how they go about it.

Edit: Waiting for IT Diva to chime in and make me feel like








Lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's gotta be something like i said tho right? Cuz Scythe/Nidec only puts the PWM circuitry on AP-29-31's. And those have a much higher RPM so it can't be the PCB from them. How else could you have a AP-15 with PWM unless you stripped the fan down and switched PCB's with like a Helix or something?
> 
> I'm just kinda thinking out loud BTW. Kind of intrigued by the idea of PWM AP-15's. Just would love to know how they go about it.
> 
> Edit: Waiting for IT Diva to chime in and make me feel like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol


It'd really just need a pcb with a motor (H) bridge on it. Motor bridge reading material: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/H_bridge


----------



## Anoxy

EK and Primochill are really just pooping on my dreams right now. My 780 backplates and primochill tubing are still backordered


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well airflow and static pressure aren't really the same thing. A fan that can push air through a radiator usually won't make a great chassis fan, and the same goes the other way. Gentle Typhoons pretty much suck as chassis fans, but they're amazing at pushing air through a rad.
> 
> Static Pressure's more about like the strength of the air than the amount of air
> Yeah a Recon should handle 5 GT's just fine.


Never knew GT's sucked as case fans, been using them for years


----------



## lowfat

They GT's aren't bad case fans, just kind of pricey for what you get. I use them all the time just so they'll match the rest of my fans.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well airflow and static pressure aren't really the same thing. A fan that can push air through a radiator usually won't make a great chassis fan, and the same goes the other way. Gentle Typhoons pretty much suck as chassis fans, but they're amazing at pushing air through a rad.
> 
> Static Pressure's more about like the strength of the air than the amount of air
> Yeah a Recon should handle 5 GT's just fine.


Hmm - my dual AP-15 rad fans seem pretty well matched with my AP-29 solo exhaust fan.

fans that have more static pressure move more air under the same conditions than fans that can push less. Any fan on a radiator won't move it's free air rating - it's all about the curve:
http://catalog.nidec-servo.com/digital/english/general/pdf/D1225C.pdf
http://catalog.nidec-servo.com/digital/english/general/pdf/D1225C_hi.pdf

from here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1236115/static-pressure-rating-for-gentle-typhoon-ap-15/0_40


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> Quick question, the inlet on the cpu block is always the one toward the center correct? Is it possible to run a loop with the inlet/outlet the wrong way around? I took my loop apart today and had to replan it because I noticed I was running it the wrong way around, I'm surprised I was able to run it that way at all. I switched it around for the center hole to be inlet and lowered fan rpm from 1400 to 1000 and I'm getting the same temps. Running even quieter now


So does it make any real difference? I just realized the Raystorm has an "in" hole and I have my outflow hooked up to that one. Is it worth the hassle of switching it around?


----------



## Akula

Project Mercury - Completed
Build Log - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan-completed/


----------



## ginger_nuts

^^^^ Please tell me that you are still bleeding air









Becoz there seems a lot of bubbles if not.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Project Mercury - Completed
> Build Log - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan-completed/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











I wish I can find Caselab in Malaysia...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> ^^^^ Please tell me that you are still bleeding air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Becoz there seems a lot of bubbles if not.


I would like to know too


----------



## Akula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> ^^^^ Please tell me that you are still bleeding air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Becoz there seems a lot of bubbles if not.


It was filled only a few hours ago








Yeah majority of the bubbles are now gone


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Watercooling nut cases, got a question
> 
> Dont mind my fully sick paint skills
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where would one go about fitting a drain line in my soon to be loop?
> 
> Im using the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Extreme Acetal with the Bitspower Dual/Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150. I thought about chucking a barb on one of the IN ports on the mod top with maybe 15cm of tubing then sticking a Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Sealing Plug on the end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but Im not to sure on that idea tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys do it? Im a n00b at watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks




That 's what I would do.
Turn the front 240 upside down, install a T-pieceright before the inlet of the res-top combo and a drain line. Not exactly the absolute lowest part in the loop but I don't like seeing a T-piece after the pump.

EDIT:
1) You do realize that D5 top has G3/8 threads (larger than the standard G1/4) right?
2) How do you mean "chucking a barb on one of the IN ports on the mod top" AFAIK, they only have 1 IN and 1 OUT + fill-port on top of the res. You could use the fillport as an inlet but unless you have some piece of tubing inside the res to keep the water from dropping in (because that noise gets annoying fast







)


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That 's what I would do.
> Turn the front 240 upside down, install a T-pieceright before the inlet of the res-top combo and a drain line. Not exactly the absolute lowest part in the loop but I don't like seeing a T-piece after the pump.
> 
> EDIT:
> 1) You do realize that D5 top has G3/8 threads (larger than the standard G1/4) right?
> 2) How do you mean "chucking a barb on one of the IN ports on the mod top" AFAIK, they only have 1 IN and 1 OUT + fill-port on top of the res. You could use the fillport as an inlet but unless you have some piece of tubing inside the res to keep the water from dropping in (because that noise gets annoying fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Ah ok didnt even think about turning the rad upside down







lol

1. Yeah I know the top is 3/8 Im getting adapters for it down to 1/4
2. The pump top once the res is attached it has on one side has 1 IN, 1 OUT port then on the other side another IN port Im just not sure if it would be safe to do seeing it would be on an IN port


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It'd really just need a pcb with a motor (H) bridge on it. Motor bridge reading material: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/H_bridge


You saying like a daughterboard? Or a "New" PCB like i was saying
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Hmm - my dual AP-15 rad fans seem pretty well matched with my AP-29 solo exhaust fan.


Cmon man, u know that's a terrible example. AP-29 = AP-15 on steroids.

If you put a decent "Chassis" fan on your desk and an AP-15 on your desk and run them both at the same speed, you're gonna notice more air coming out of the chassis fan.
AP-15's are far better at moving air through Rads, Heatsinks, and Filters than they are in open air. So are AP-29's, 30's, and 31's.

Chassis fans have blade designs meant for circulating air through an open area, rad fans have blade designs meant to scoop air and push it through a closed area (like GT's and E-Loops)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You saying like a daughterboard? Or a "New" PCB like i was saying
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Cmon man, u know that's a terrible example. AP-29 = AP-15 on steroids.
> 
> If you put a decent "Chassis" fan on your desk and an AP-15 on your desk and run them both at the same speed, you're gonna notice more air coming out of the chassis fan.
> AP-15's are far better at moving air through Rads, Heatsinks, and Filters than they are in open air. So are AP-29's, 30's, and 31's.
> 
> Chassis fans have blade designs meant for circulating air through an open area, rad fans have blade designs meant to scoop air and push it through a closed area (like GT's and E-Loops)


You could do it either way.


----------



## kpoeticg

Hrmmm, i guess a daughterboard seems the logical way to do it. Thanx for the education


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hrmmm, i guess a daughterboard seems the logical way to do it. Thanx for the education


You could put the driver circuit in front of the fan and not mod the fan at all even.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i grabbed 1 of these a while back for something similar


The trimpot makes it a PITA to adjust tho.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah ok didnt even think about turning the rad upside down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> 1. Yeah I know the top is 3/8 Im getting adapters for it down to 1/4
> 2. The pump top once the res is attached it has on one side has 1 IN, 1 OUT port then on the other side another IN port Im just not sure if it would be safe to do seeing it would be on an IN port


Ah yes, I see now, it has another IN on the other side.
I understand your concern but I don't think it will matter because having a tube with a plug there or just a plug is basically the same thing. Do wait for a second opinion from someone with some more experience than me. But as far as I know, it won't be an issue using one of the inlets as a drain port.

I also wonder how well a top/res combo like that is able to bleed air...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Ah yes, I see now, it has another IN on the other side.
> I understand your concern but I don't think it will matter because having a tube with a plug there or just a plug is basically the same thing. Do wait for a second opinion from someone with some more experience than me. But as far as I know, it won't be an issue using one of the inlets as a drain port.
> 
> I also wonder how well a top/res combo like that is able to bleed air...


lol sorry I should of made my op clearer







, I wouldnt think it would be a problem, but I have been wrong a few times and I dont feel like suffing a brand new pump

I dunno hope its easy, this is my first loop and I chose black tubing and nickle blocks







, I will be leaving it bleed overnight tho


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> lol sorry I should of made my op clearer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I wouldnt think it would be a problem, but I have been wrong a few times and I dont feel like suffing a brand new pump
> 
> I dunno hope its easy, this is my first loop and I chose black tubing and nickle blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I will be leaving it bleed overnight tho


No no, I should've looked at the top better. I actually considered that top/res combo when I thought about switching to a D5 and had no idea it has that inlet at the back. It was my mistake.

If you are going to let it bleed overnight, make sure there are no air pockets in the rads (an other reason you should flip the 240 upside down, having it with the ports at the bottom is a PITA to bleed







) because you really don't want to wake up and find out that your pump has been running dry for half the night







. Tilt it in every direction, you will hear it when there's air moving. Once the big pockets are out I shake the whole case every 30 minutes to loosen small air bubbles in the rads.
Also, install one fan and turn it on because pumps actually dump quite some heat in the loop and if it's going to run all night, might as well keep it a bit cooler.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> No no, I should've looked at the top better. I actually considered that top/res combo when I thought about switching to a D5 and had no idea it has that inlet at the back. It was my mistake.
> 
> If you are going to let it bleed overnight, make sure there are no air pockets in the rads (an other reason you should flip the 240 upside down, having it with the ports at the bottom is a PITA to bleed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) because you really don't want to wake up and find out that your pump has been running dry for half the night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Tilt it in every direction, you will hear it when there's air moving. Once the big pockets are out I shake the whole case every 30 minutes to loosen small air bubbles in the rads.
> Also, install one fan and turn it on because pumps actually dump quite some heat in the loop and if it's going to run all night, might as well keep it a bit cooler.


I dunno I might set it up during the day to get the worst out then run it over night to get as many of the little ones out, ran the pump for 24 hours when I first got it to make sure it worked right it got a little warm







so Im gonna run the fans to seeing all 5 are hooked up to a little power board thing on 5v anyway


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Project Mercury - Completed
> Build Log - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan-completed/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great build all around. Did you polish the blocks yourself? Love that look...when I go for a rebuild I plan on doing the same to my CSQ blocks.


----------



## derickwm

Been a while since you've done a rebuild Mike, get 'er done.


----------



## PCModderMike

Ahh so little time, yet so many ideas.
Gonna see what the new year brings.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## grim.

Well I've just finished a rebuild in my old 650d. I've only been a lurker here so thought I'd chuck a picture up and join the club as it were.

Going to be starting a build next month with a few idea's I've had, hoping to put my trade as a cabinet maker to good use and build a desk with a water cooled rig built into the desk top. But for now I've just done this quick build to test out all my new components









http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/tempfinish1_zpsc2736d22.jpg.html


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You saying like a daughterboard? Or a "New" PCB like i was saying
> Cmon man, u know that's a terrible example. AP-29 = AP-15 on steroids.
> 
> If you put a decent "Chassis" fan on your desk and an AP-15 on your desk and run them both at the same speed, you're gonna notice more air coming out of the chassis fan.
> AP-15's are far better at moving air through Rads, Heatsinks, and Filters than they are in open air. So are AP-29's, 30's, and 31's.
> 
> Chassis fans have blade designs meant for circulating air through an open area, rad fans have blade designs meant to scoop air and push it through a closed area (like GT's and E-Loops)


How much air one "notices" coming out of a fan is more likely to be related to turbulence and sound than actual CFM. That method of picking fans sounds to be not much better than picking them by what they look like. a bag filling test, or something with a MAF would be much more meaningful.

I actually have a few chassis / enclosures cooled by AP-11s. I can barely tell they're running when I put my ear to the cabinet, and the bearings have outlasted everything else I've bolted to the back of the home theater cabinet.


----------



## defiler2k

Some progress



I hate how the line going in to the res looks however I got tired of ruining pipe trying to make the bend...lol I did manage to make the bend for the other part of the pipe but that one was not collaborating at all and since I already had the angled fittings I figured I'd give it a go like this. I'll give it another try once the Monsoon bending kit is released, I still have a full 4pack of the primochill tubing and a couple of 36inch runs.

Also my pump is a little crooked so I ordered a different mount to get the res/pump to stand straight. Hopefully I will be able to finish this week!

I had to use Astroglide on the silicone insert to get it in the acrylic tube since even with a ton of sanding the tube kept getting stuck, needless to say my wife gave me a funny look when she saw me walk in the door with a bottle of the stuff...







Specially since we just had a baby!

I have the run from the top rad almost done I just need to make the final bend plus I'm waiting for my flow indicator to arrive to complete that portion and should be ready to roll!

I know I will be tinkering with this one after it is done but having a kid just kills my time, I maybe can get a tube run a day between diapers and feedings, the joy of new parents!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ahh so little time, yet so many ideas.
> Gonna see what the new year brings.


Hopefully a good bonus check or somethin to buy parts for a new build


----------



## Anoxy

Man I love those caselabs...one day


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ahh so little time, yet so many ideas.
> Gonna see what the new year brings.
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully a good bonus check or somethin to buy parts for a new build
Click to expand...

That's the right idea.


----------



## MR-e

Leak testing!

Build log still in progress - Millenium


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> How much air one "notices" coming out of a fan is more likely to be related to turbulence and sound than actual CFM. That method of picking fans sounds to be not much better than picking them by what they look like. a bag filling test, or something with a MAF would be much more meaningful.
> 
> I actually have a few chassis / enclosures cooled by AP-11s. I can barely tell they're running when I put my ear to the cabinet, and the bearings have outlasted everything else I've bolted to the back of the home theater cabinet.


I actually have 6 AP-00's and 3 AP-15's in the build i'm working on. I never said they were bad fans. I said they weren't good chassis fans. I think GT's are amazing rad fans. I think the same thing that makes them the best 120x25mm rad fans is the same thing that prevents them from being good chassis fans. Their blade design doesn't allow air to escape from the sides.

There's a reason chassis fans have those Chicklet looking blades. GT's cool exactly what's directly in front of them better than any fan in it's class. Chassis fans are meant to circulate the air around the entire chassis. IMO any fan that's 120x25mm can only be really great at one or the other. The same way 30-35mm thick rads can only shine in a particular RPM range. Sure, GT's will work as chassis fans. Especially in a small space like a cabinet. And sticking a bag on the fan wouldn't do anything at all to prove things one way or the other. A more suitable test would be cutting a fan hole in the middle of a 36x18 inch box and measuring the airflow around the edges.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> SP120's are great fans too. GT's have a better SP to Noise ratio, but SP120's can move more air than AP-15's can. AP-00's can move more air than SP120's and are much quieter doing it
> 
> So basically, if you're happy with how the SP120's sound running full speed, just keep em


AP-00's? Now I need to google this I thought it went from 08 - 15 or something of the sort, guessing frozencpu only carries a specific amount.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> When I was in Japan earlier this year I rmb seeing a couple in the shop. Sofmap


Ahhh Softmap.. I miss them, that + Yodobashi , the 2 best places for parts in Japan, Yodobashi being the bigger and more flexible though there are some large sofmap locations. I still need to use up my points for both.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Never knew GT's sucked as case fans, been using them for years


Same I thought of them as the hybrid of all fans according to reviews and such.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Hmm - my dual AP-15 rad fans seem pretty well matched with my AP-29 solo exhaust fan.
> 
> fans that have more static pressure move more air under the same conditions than fans that can push less. Any fan on a radiator won't move it's free air rating - it's all about the curve:
> http://catalog.nidec-servo.com/digital/english/general/pdf/D1225C.pdf
> http://catalog.nidec-servo.com/digital/english/general/pdf/D1225C_hi.pdf
> 
> from here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1236115/static-pressure-rating-for-gentle-typhoon-ap-15/0_40


Thanks for this, as I'm completely boggled how the entire static pressure works, seeing as @ 2350 RPM my SP120 is not only quiet, but feels as if its barely pushing air at all which concerns me on how it actually cools.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Project Mercury - Completed
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan-completed/


Very nice, I low how well you guys compact these things in and still make them look pretty


----------



## kpoeticg

Luna, GT's go from AP-11 (500RPM) - AP-15 (1850RPM) for their mainstream fans. Then there's also AP-00's or AP-45's which are 2150RPM (same fan, different name). Those are all the GT's with gray blades

Then they have their commercial range, AP-29 (3000RPM) - AP-31 (5400RPM). Those have black blades and PWM capability


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> *Thanks for this, as I'm completely boggled how the entire static pressure works, seeing as @ 2350 RPM my SP120 is not only quiet, but feels as if its barely pushing air at all which concerns me on how it actually cools.*


Basically, pick out a fan, and look on the chart @ a specific static pressure reading. for case fans (assuming a well balanced setup), you can look at a point just shy of the free air number. For radiator fans, look closer to the middle - max SP basically equates to no flow.

a beefy enough SP rating can actually levitate a fan off a desk (if it's pointing straight down). when it's doing that, you won't see anywhere near as much airflow though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjoLDyNT_FE


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Project Mercury - Completed
> Build Log - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan-completed/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, looks great. Nice choice on the case.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Tempted to go acrylic tubing, but I have yet to see anyone do it in a FT02. Seems like it would be too much of a pain


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Tempted to go acrylic tubing, but I have yet to see anyone do it in a FT02. Seems like it would be too much of a pain


I did acylic in an Fractal Arc MIDI R2. Many have done acrylic in Bitfenix Prodigies. Smaller cases aren't a problem. Really any case shouldn't be a problem as long as it can support WC to begin with. You should be fine


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Tempted to go acrylic tubing, but I have yet to see anyone do it in a FT02. Seems like it would be too much of a pain


Acrylic should no harder in an FT02 than any other case IMO.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

heres my humble offering to the hard acrylic gods. please have mercy....i need to redo some bends, but for a first effort im pretty pleased.





so heres some temps, these arent accurate as we didnt have heat in our house for about 2 weeks......thanks Peoples Gas.....even told them i have a newborn baby in the house and they still wouldnt turn the gas back on even though it was their screw up that got it turned off......did make for some nice temps though....










idle, the house was about 55 degrees C.


while running Heaven...


and my cold cats cause everyone loves cats...


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Acrylic should no harder in an FT02 than any other case IMO.


Can't dispute that. Good point.

So is everyone just grabbing some 1/2" primochill and their rigid revolver fittings? Anything with larger ID available?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> heres my humble offering to the hard acrylic gods. please have mercy....i need to redo some bends, but for a first effort im pretty pleased.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so heres some temps, these arent accurate as we didnt have heat in our house for about 2 weeks......thanks Peoples Gas.....even told them i have a newborn baby in the house and they still wouldnt turn the gas back on even though it was their screw up that got it turned off......did make for some nice temps though....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> idle, the house was about 55 degrees C.
> 
> 
> while running Heaven...
> 
> 
> and my cold cats cause everyone loves cats...


Great work man!!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> heres my humble offering to the hard acrylic gods. please have mercy....i need to redo some bends, but for a first effort im pretty pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so heres some temps, these arent accurate as we didnt have heat in our house for about 2 weeks......thanks Peoples Gas.....even told them i have a newborn baby in the house and they still wouldnt turn the gas back on even though it was their screw up that got it turned off......did make for some nice temps though....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> idle, the house was about 55 degrees C.
> 
> 
> while running Heaven...
> 
> 
> and my cold cats cause everyone loves cats...


Looks good to me









Only thing I would have done differently is put a 90degree on top of the res and have a single 90 degree bend going to the rad


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Can't dispute that. Good point.
> 
> So is everyone just grabbing some 1/2" primochill and their rigid revolver fittings? Anything with larger ID available?


I definitely prefer the regular Primochill fittings. Not a fan of the revolver fittings at all.

EK sells larger acrylic tubing and fittings.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks good to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing I would have done differently is put a 90degree on top of the res and have a single 90 degree bend going to the rad


yeah, i only had 2 90s....

i will change the top run for sure, but i had to kinda go with what i had on hand to get the build up and running. sucks when your plans dont work out as intended....

the EK csq 90s i got arent that nice either, they almost have a brown color to them........gonna replace with bitspower.

Thanks guys! any more critiques are very welcome and appreciated.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I definitely prefer the regular Primochill fittings. Not a fan of the revolver fittings at all.
> 
> 
> 
> EK sells larger acrylic tubing and fittings.


Sounds like Monsoon will have 16mm OD coming out shortly as well.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks good to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing I would have done differently is put a 90degree on top of the res and have a single 90 degree bend going to the rad


U saying that based on form or function? Cuz i kinda like the way that Z looks goin from res -> rad.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> U saying that based on form or function? Cuz i kinda like the way that Z looks goin from res -> rad.


Form. Straight lines just look better IMO.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> U saying that based on form or function? Cuz i kinda like the way that Z looks goin from res -> rad.


form...just personal preference, lol. It's function is fine.

for every one that doesn't like it is probably another that does, hahah


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, the reason i asked wuz cuz i didn't know if that was bad for flowrate. I plan on doing acrylic with my build, but i'm still a ways off from that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, the reason i asked wuz cuz i didn't know if that was bad for flowrate. I plan on doing acrylic with my build, but i'm still a ways off from that.


Tempted to go back myself to try again w/ acrylic. Only thing that held me back from pulling the trigger was the seller was out of black or green fittings. I should have plenty of, ahem, space w/ my new case so the tight runs should be less of a concern this time around.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tempted to go back myself to try again w/ acrylic. Only thing that held me back from pulling the trigger was the seller was out of black or green fittings. I should have plenty of, ahem, space w/ my new case so the tight runs should be less of a concern this time around.


honestly, i dont even bother to look at most rigs with soft tubing anymore. it just doesnt interest me like it used to. hard acrylic from now on for me.


----------



## Anoxy

Is there any benefit or drawback to using a terminal block for SLI vs. buying individual fittings and tubing?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is there any benefit or drawback to using a terminal block for SLI vs. buying individual fittings and tubing?


It is just preference of aesthetics. They don't perform different.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Guys, kinda need to know this quick

Can you put a plug or drain valve on an IN port on a pump top without it causing problems?

Thanks


----------



## derickwm

What... no. Which pump top are you thinking of?


----------



## wermad

I think he might mean tops with two in ports. My koolance has two, top and side. I use the side in as a drain.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Using the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Extreme Acetal its got 2 INs and 1 OUT on the sides, using 3/8 to 1/4 adapters for it

Or where would you guys put a T line or something in, this is my craptastic loop lol


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> AP-00's? Now I need to google this I thought it went from 08 - 15 or something of the sort, guessing frozencpu only carries a specific amount.
> Ahhh Softmap.. I miss them, that + Yodobashi , the 2 best places for parts in Japan, Yodobashi being the bigger and more flexible though there are some large sofmap locations. I still need to use up my points for both.
> Same I thought of them as the hybrid of all fans according to reviews and such.
> Thanks for this, as I'm completely boggled how the entire static pressure works, seeing as @ 2350 RPM my SP120 is not only quiet, but feels as if its barely pushing air at all which concerns me on how it actually cools.
> [/spoiler]
> 
> Very nice, I low how well you guys compact these things in and still make them look pretty


Yodobashi camera!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Using the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Extreme Acetal its got 2 INs and 1 OUT on the sides, using 3/8 to 1/4 adapters for it
> 
> Or where would you guys put a T line or something in, this is my craptastic loop lol


Any particular reason you decided to go with a pump top that uses G3/8? :kookoo:

Anyway I spose you'd be fine considering how many inlets/outlets that top has, you kind of have to lol


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Any particular reason you decided to go with a pump top that uses G3/8?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I spose you'd be fine considering how many inlets/outlets that top has, you kind of have to lol


Um well when I originally bought it I thought it was the normal one







, was short on time and couldnt read the specs right, but after looking around all the normal 1/4 tops in Aus I could find were clear acrylic or the black ones were over priced ($100+) lol

Thanks, just wanted to see what a few people thought before I ordered the last of my crap


----------



## Oliver1234

I think I can finally say I've joined this club now:


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oliver1234*
> 
> I think I can finally say I've joined this club now:


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oliver1234*
> 
> I think I can finally say I've joined this club now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really nice build mate....


----------



## Jeffinslaw

^^^^^


----------



## derickwm

Beautiful


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Im kinda getting over the red and black builds, but I must say...



very nicely done


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I actually have 6 AP-00's and 3 AP-15's in the build i'm working on. I never said they were bad fans. I said they weren't good chassis fans. I think GT's are amazing rad fans. I think the same thing that makes them the best 120x25mm rad fans is the same thing that prevents them from being good chassis fans. Their blade design doesn't allow air to escape from the sides.
> 
> There's a reason chassis fans have those Chicklet looking blades. GT's cool exactly what's directly in front of them better than any fan in it's class. Chassis fans are meant to circulate the air around the entire chassis. IMO any fan that's 120x25mm can only be really great at one or the other. The same way 30-35mm thick rads can only shine in a particular RPM range. Sure, GT's will work as chassis fans. Especially in a small space like a cabinet. And sticking a bag on the fan wouldn't do anything at all to prove things one way or the other. A more suitable test would be cutting a fan hole in the middle of a 36x18 inch box and measuring the airflow around the edges.


I would assume most people run some type of filtering material on their case fans...hence the need for static pressure. But maybe people want dust in their pc


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> I would assume most people run some type of filtering material on their case fans...hence the need for static pressure. But maybe people want dust in their pc


On my AF140s I use Silverstone fine mesh filters which do a really good job of keeping dust out but they do give a noticeable reduction of airflow. It is not huge but SP fans would probably do a better job of forcing air through.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oliver1234*
> 
> I think I can finally say I've joined this club now:






Being completely serious: I am beginning to move away from the mostly red/black color scheme (hence me wanting the RIVE Black), but that is genuinely one of the most spectacularly done, meticulously detailed, beautifully crafted rigs. Now that you've done that, you need to build another art piece









-Zepp


----------



## luciddreamer124

FINALLY: dual female g1/4 bitspower angle adapters. This will be nice for straight acrylic runs. I just need them in white now!!



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_620


----------



## Anoxy

Edit: nevermind


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Can you all please spoiler all but 1 of quoted pictures please,no one wants to wade thru walls of quoted pics....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is a drain port something I should be looking into for my build? I'm not entirely sure what I would need to buy to make one.


Drains are not completely necessary. But they do make life easy, and highly recommended.

All you need is a port at the lowest possible point to which can be shut off (closed, plugged etc)

Typically using a T piece is used with either a shut off mini valve or plug in the end. Myself I have a mini valve on my GPU block, it is not the lowest point but it works.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't really like the look of it but it's something new I suppose. And it'll probably be cheaper since there isn't as much copper needed.


----------



## bundymania

The block costs 70 € and the performance is good. The GPU core part is based on the award winning cpu cooler (tested by stren and others) from the same company.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't like it that much either, sinde it looks rather inneficient. One of the advantages of a full-copper base is a more even spread of the heat to the water flowing through it. The thermal-transfer areas on this are basically limited to the metallic contacts (visibly smaller than a full-copper base).

There is also the issue with cleaning the block in case of plasticiser issue on the channels connecting all those metallic contacts.

Unless it's significantly cheaper, it doesen't seem like a very good option to me. And its aimed at a rather pricey piece of hardware (GTX 780 isn't a gpu one can call cheap) and at a niche that is know for spending more than normal on hardware (watercooling public). I can't see much future for this block other than budget builds. And a budget build hardly includes a top-tier GPU.

Its something new, yes. But I don't think it's moving in the right direction. I believe that making the copper base thinner, lighter and better-machined would be a better approach to reducing costs.

EDIT:
Quote:


> The block costs 70 € and the performance is good. The GPU core part is based on the award winning cpu cooler (tested by stren and others) from the same company.


70 Euros seems a bit too much for so little copper and so much plastic. I would like to see how it performs against a classic, full-copper base.

I can get a full-copper Aqua Computer block for 90 €, its not that much for a better-looking, easier maintenance block from a known manufacturer. There is also the issue with the amount of money people pay for a custom watercooler loop. What is 20 € more on a 200-300 € system? I cant see much reason to purchase it.
If the prices were more competitive, who knows...


----------



## bundymania

The block was already tested here:

http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/656-test-nvidia-gtx-titan-wasserkuehler.html?showall=&start=8

The performance (Delta-T result) is better than from the EK block and the XSPC cooler and the flow rate is the best from all tested blocks in this review

Regarding to "too many plastic and so little copper" Have you seen how the Swiftech/EVGA Block looks inside ? Well, those also chinese made blocks costs 130-150 Euros....


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I'm sorry, but that looks like crap... :/


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> The block was already tested here:
> 
> http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/656-test-nvidia-gtx-titan-wasserkuehler.html?showall=&start=8
> 
> The performance (Delta-T result) is better than from the EK block and the XSPC cooler and the flow rate is the best from all tested blocks in this review


Really didn't expect that for that much plastic, but it's good news. Seems like a performer then.
I don't really like the aesthetics, but it works, so thats might be enough for the market.
A good idea would be the possibility to "unscrew" the lower part with the channels, for cleaning and maintenance.

I still feel it could cost less tho, there is so little copper there...
Also never found EVGA/Swiftech blocks that appealing. I'm a fan of metallic parts and exposed copper/nickel, gives a better look to a loop regarding the quality of the build, but that's personal preference.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oliver1234*
> 
> I think I can finally say I've joined this club now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice execution and I like the red / black treatment of the fittings.

If I might offer one critique, the one downside that's really hurting the overall look, is that you need to bend the tubing or add some fittings to get rid of the angled runs.

It needs to be all vertical and horizontal, and if you have an offset like the left side riser, then "L" the tubing or put an offset in it so it stays essentially vertical, not leaned to the rear.

Darlene


----------



## bundymania

Yes, that´s correct, opening the block for cleaning is not that easy, they changed the top design a bit since the pre-version to a cleaner look.


----------



## bomberjun




----------



## Jakusonfire

Geez Hardwaremax is always good for a giggle.
I guess Stren wasted his time and all the effort he put in testing Titan blocks if it is just as easy as whacking a card in a system and reading from an Aquaero. He could only find a maximum 1.5 - 2 C gap in core/ water temps between all cards he tested but Max can find a 4.5C gap between two of Strens closest, and reversed








Amazing how German products always do well in their testing?

And the oh so subtle "rough finishing" and implied rushed production EK block compared to Aqaucomp






Must be mistaken in not seeing much difference here? Machining marks and whorls on both.

Seems their own testing of the same blocks doesn't match on a different GPU
http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/717-test-sieben-aktuelle-nvidia-gtx-780-wasserkuehler.html?showall=&start=11


----------



## bundymania

But do you bellieve that the XSPC block with the wide fin structure performs really better than the blocks from Aquacomputer, Watercool, EK, Koolance or Swiftech like Stren showed in his result charts ? Come on....







A 6 y,o. kid can see without testing that this is not possible


----------



## derickwm




----------



## stren

FWIW AquaComputer changed the block design after they shipped me the sample so my AC results may not be worth staking a lot of money on. However the XSPC and Koolance blocks I repeated a bunch of times and they were repeatable. AFAIK none of the other testers were running as high power levels as I was, nor did anyone else test vs a large range of flow rates. As for fin structure when I did the massive CPU block roundup, I tried to correlate fin structure, # of channels, channel width, total surface area to actual thermal performance and couldn't. Yes I was surprised that the XSPC did so well with that structure and of course at some point a lack of surface area will limit a block but it could be possible that other factors are limiting performance too. In reality the block to block variation was tight which makes sense to me given how many years of block iteration we've had now. It would be surprising to me if a manufacturer released a terrible block. The main difference between blocks for me was the VRM temps and that separated out which blocks not to buy more than the core temperature IMO.

What can I say when Bundy doesn't correlate with my results? Some people will think either one of us is faking it, but the reality is that we have slightly different setups: - different gpu samples, different motherboards/cpus, different batches of TIM, different screw torque for mounting, different batches of thermal pads, different probes, different loading power, different block samples. In testing little things can make a difference. I'd love to correlate every time with every other reviewer, but sometime that doesn't happen and my first priority is just trying to do the best testing that I possibly can







I try and test things for the 24/7 overclocker that wants to optimize everything and push as hard as they can without killing things. That's how I run my systems, and so that's how I like to test things









It's worth pointing out that most manufacturers design their block to be the best and a lot of them test it against others blocks and some get upset when I don't correlate with their testing. Of course it's impossible to correlate with everyone's testing when they all think their block is best. I'm sure Bundy has seen/heard the same thing.


----------



## kpoeticg

FWIW I personally appreciate all the hard work you guys put into keeping the community educated. You (Stren), Bundy, and Martin are the only reviewers that i actually put value into what you have to say. All other reviews i watch are considered unboxings to me. Please keep up the great research!!!


----------



## Willi

why not test a block with a constant heat source that can be precisely measured and KEPT constant, place that heat source where the GPU itself would be, then test how many watts the block can truly dissipate, instead of testing with the risk of hardware disparity?

If the block is a fullcover and cools not only the GPU, but mems and VRM, then place multiple heat sources compatible (or maybe a bit above) the heat output of the board that block is intended to cool.

This way you can measure exactly how many watts a given block is able to dissipate, giving a common baseline to determine the best performer (in this case, the one that dissipates more watts).

Using the hardware itself is a bad idea simply because the manufacturers themselves know that one board can run cooler or hotter than the other and so on.

I seriously doubt I was the first one to think about this, so if there is an impediment to my idea, please explain o.o


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## derickwm




----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> why not test a block with a constant heat source that can be precisely measured and KEPT constant, place that heat source where the GPU itself would be, then test how many watts the block can truly dissipate, instead of testing with the risk of hardware disparity?
> 
> If the block is a fullcover and cools not only the GPU, but mems and VRM, then place multiple heat sources compatible (or maybe a bit above) the heat output of the board that block is intended to cool.
> 
> This way you can measure exactly how many watts a given block is able to dissipate, giving a common baseline to determine the best performer (in this case, the one that dissipates more watts).
> 
> Using the hardware itself is a bad idea simply because the manufacturers themselves know that one board can run cooler or hotter than the other and so on.
> 
> I seriously doubt I was the first one to think about this, so if there is an impediment to my idea, please explain o.o


Because then you test how well a block cools your heating element. A good amount of performance is in how well a block cools that specific cpu/cpu design which comes down to mounting (pressure) and how well the cooling engine design aligns to where on the core the heat is produced (Socket 2011 CPUs at least do not evenly distribute heat across the entire IHS hence block rotation matters).

This sort of thing would be good to test relative thermal efficiencies of cooling engine (core) designs across all products, but it leaves out critical factors that affect performance in real world use.

FWIW Martin does this when he tests radiators using an aquarium heater. Because the heater doesn't contact the radiator itself then the souce of heat doesn't matter too much. However with a block the heater would contact it and so the contact effect now would matter.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> FWIW AquaComputer changed the block design after they shipped me the sample so my AC results may not be worth staking a lot of money on. However the XSPC and Koolance blocks I repeated a bunch of times and they were repeatable. AFAIK none of the other testers were running as high power levels as I was, nor did anyone else test vs a large range of flow rates. As for fin structure when I did the massive CPU block roundup, I tried to correlate fin structure, # of channels, channel width, total surface area to actual thermal performance and couldn't. Yes I was surprised that the XSPC did so well with that structure and of course at some point a lack of surface area will limit a block but it could be possible that other factors are limiting performance too. *In reality the block to block variation was tight which makes sense to me given how many years of block iteration we've had now. It would be surprising to me if a manufacturer released a terrible block. The main difference between blocks for me was the VRM temps and that separated out which blocks not to buy more than the core temperature* IMO.
> 
> What can I say when Bundy doesn't correlate with my results? Some people will think either one of us is faking it, *but the reality is that we have slightly different setups: - different gpu samples, different motherboards/cpus, different batches of TIM, different screw torque for mounting, different batches of thermal pads, different probes, different loading power, different block samples.* In testing little things can make a difference. I'd love to correlate every time with every other reviewer, but sometime that doesn't happen and my first priority is just trying to do the best testing that I possibly can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I try and test things for the 24/7 overclocker that wants to optimize everything and push as hard as they can without killing things. That's how I run my systems, and so that's how I like to test things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's worth pointing out that most manufacturers design their block to be the best and a lot of them test it against others blocks and some get upset when I don't correlate with their testing. Of course it's impossible to correlate with everyone's testing when they all think their block is best. I'm sure Bundy has seen/heard the same thing.


These.

there is only so much you can gain from microchannel blocks,variance of a couple of degrees can be a statistic anomaly rather than actual performance loss/gain.

And we all know Watercool and AC make the best GPU blocks....


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And we all know Watercool and AC make the best GPU blocks....


Says who


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> And we all know Watercool and AC make the best GPU blocks....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Says who
Click to expand...

One reviewer=nothing to me.

(Sorry Stren) I require a larger sample size than 1 review to make an informed choice

Would you like me to pull up loads of GPU tests that show Watercool on top?

Blocks are now about aesthetic value rather than performance,the wrinkles have been ironed out,the method is now down...looks are the defining feature now.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> One reviewer=nothing to me.
> 
> Sorry Stren but i require a larger sample size than 1 review to make an informed choice
> 
> Would you like me to pull up loads of GPU tests that show Watercool on top?
> 
> Blocks are now about aesthetic value rather than performance,the wrinkles have been ironed out,the method is now down...looks are the defining feature now.


I would never disagree with looking at data from multiple reviewers. I do the same thing. I wouldn't say it's only aesthetics now though although it's definitely become a bigger factor as core results have gotten closer. However a 30C difference in VRM temps does make a difference to me, but it may not to everyone


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> One reviewer=nothing to me.


The amount of self-esteem is OVER 9000!


----------



## Anoxy

I'm trying to figure out which size SLI pipe I need for two EK Titan blocks with a Z77 Sabertooth mobo. There's a 41-69mm version and a 22-31mm version. Anyone know by chance?


----------



## tiborrr12

Your mobo: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?mb_mbs=689

Why don't you just get these?
- 1x http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/hd-tube-adapter-system/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-3-slot-2-pcs.html
- 4x http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/hd-tube-adapter-system/fittings/ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-nickel.html

That's for parallel flow. For serial you will only need two fittings.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out which size SLI pipe I need for two EK Titan blocks with a Z77 Sabertooth mobo. There's a 41-69mm version and a 22-31mm version. Anyone know by chance?


Quote:



> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Your mobo: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?mb_mbs=689
> 
> Why don't you just get these?
> - 1x http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/hd-tube-adapter-system/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-3-slot-2-pcs.html
> - 4x http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/hd-tube-adapter-system/fittings/ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-nickel.html
> 
> That's for parallel flow. For serial you will only need two fittings.


Well... Z77 & Z87 Sabertooth have the same spacing so the products suggested would still be the same for your board


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Your mobo: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?mb_mbs=689
> 
> Why don't you just get these?
> - 1x http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/hd-tube-adapter-system/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-3-slot-2-pcs.html
> - 4x http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/hd-tube-adapter-system/fittings/ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-nickel.html
> 
> That's for parallel flow. For serial you will only need two fittings.


Is one channel like this photo inferior to two?

I like the look of the a chrome SLI connection like this:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> One reviewer=nothing to me.
> 
> Sorry Stren but i require a larger sample size than 1 review to make an informed choice
> 
> Would you like me to pull up loads of GPU tests that show Watercool on top?
> 
> Blocks are now about aesthetic value rather than performance,the wrinkles have been ironed out,the method is now down...looks are the defining feature now.
> 
> 
> 
> I would never disagree with looking at data from multiple reviewers. I do the same thing. I wouldn't say it's only aesthetics now though although it's definitely become a bigger factor as core results have gotten closer. However a 30C difference in VRM temps does make a difference to me, but it may not to everyone
Click to expand...

30c VRM difference is something I couldn't ignore and certainly doesn't come under statistical anomaly.
The block in question must of been passively cooled,I can't see a block with a waterchannel over the VRM being that far out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> One reviewer=nothing to me.
> 
> 
> 
> The amount of self-esteem is OVER 9000!
Click to expand...

I don't see what you are getting at Niko,Stren also uses multiple sources for test data like myself. Unless this is your effort at sarcasm?
Either way,I have lot of time for Stren and his testing but I don't rely on his one review,to do so would be foolish.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Because then you test how well a block cools your heating element. A good amount of performance is in how well a block cools that specific cpu/cpu design which comes down to mounting (pressure) and how well the cooling engine design aligns to where on the core the heat is produced (Socket 2011 CPUs at least do not evenly distribute heat across the entire IHS hence block rotation matters).
> 
> This sort of thing would be good to test relative thermal efficiencies of cooling engine (core) designs across all products, but it leaves out critical factors that affect performance in real world use.
> 
> FWIW Martin does this when he tests radiators using an aquarium heater. Because the heater doesn't contact the radiator itself then the souce of heat doesn't matter too much. However with a block the heater would contact it and so the contact effect now would matter.


That is all I wanted to know. Thanks for the clarification. Also, +Rep for the patience regarding my ignorance.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Says who


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> One reviewer=nothing to me.
> 
> *Sorry Stren* but i require a larger sample size than 1 review to make an informed choice
> 
> Would you like me to pull up loads of GPU tests that show Watercool on top?
> 
> Blocks are now about aesthetic value rather than performance,the wrinkles have been ironed out,the method is now down...looks are the defining feature now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> I would never disagree with looking at data from multiple reviewers. I do the same thing. I wouldn't say it's only aesthetics now though although it's definitely become a bigger factor as core results have gotten closer. However a 30C difference in VRM temps does make a difference to me, but it may not to everyone


See this is what happens when two people have identical avatars


----------



## B NEGATIVE

No,the post was for EK Derick,the sorry was for stren as he did the in depth testing.
The avatar thing,although slightly weird,played no part in it.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> See this is what happens when two people have identical avatars


I miss the day when tons of people had the king iguana avatar. No one had any idea what was going on


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> See this is what happens when two people have identical avatars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss the day when tons of people had the king iguana avatar. No one had any idea what was going on
Click to expand...

KING IGAUNA DISPUTES YOUR PERCEPTION OF PEOPLE HAVING NO IDEA.
KING IGUANA HOPES THE SURPRIZE BHUT SECKS HAPPENS TO YOU.


----------



## randomnerd865

Alright, first off I have watercooled my pc before but it has been a while. Lots of new stuff on the market so I'm wanting to start out simple. I just ordered the corsair 600t white and was wanting to start out with just a cpu loop. Any opinions or feedback on the XSPC raystorm kit Also I have never used this case or seen it up close really, but I know there isn't a lot of room between the top and mobo so what is the fitment like for the top 240 rad. Is push pull an option?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Alright, first off I have watercooled my pc before but it has been a while. Lots of new stuff on the market so I'm wanting to start out simple. I just ordered the corsair 600t white and was wanting to start out with just a cpu loop. Any opinions or feedback on the XSPC raystorm kit Also I have never used this case or seen it up close really, but I know there isn't a lot of room between the top and mobo so what is the fitment like for the top 240 rad. Is push pull an option?


I have owned the case and to do push/pull you will have to offset the rad to the side of the case away from the motherboard (fans/rad/case fans) ,and when you do so only about 3-4 screws will be used but it will hold firm....Also there is a couple guys there in the club about to do some water cooling so check the page out....

http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/13330#post_21184225


----------



## lilchronic

i have a question for you guy's









i currently have 2x 240's rad one is the ek rad and the other one is a Black Ice GT Stealth 240 Radiator.

would upgrading my black ice 240 rad to a 80mm thick monsta rad be much better than what i have now?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> i have a question for you guy's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i currently have 2x 240's rad one is the ek rad and the other one is a Black Ice GT Stealth 240 Radiator.
> 
> would upgrading my black ice 240 rad to a 80mm thick monsta rad be much better than what i have now?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What temps do you have now? What is the ambient when you get those temps?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> KING IGAUNA DISPUTES YOUR PERCEPTION OF PEOPLE HAVING NO IDEA.
> KING IGUANA HOPES THE SURPRIZE BHUT SECKS HAPPENS TO YOU.


TF2, "Surprise Buttsecks"


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I have owned the case and to do push/pull you will have to offset the rad to the side of the case away from the motherboard (fans/rad/case fans) ,and when you do so only about 3-4 screws will be used but it will hold firm....Also there is a couple guys there in the club about to do some water cooling so check the page out....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/13330#post_21184225


Thanks I will rummage through that thread and see what I can find.!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Thanks I will rummage through that thread and see what I can find.!


You wont have to look hard,just go to the last page and look at sparkles build and you will see her rig with a set of fans and a rad (corsair h100i) mounted inside and she has another set in the upper part of the roof,if you have more questions they will be happy to help you out....


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What temps do you have now? What is the ambient when you get those temps?


ambient temps 20°c
while playing BF4 with vsync off for a couple hour's cpu temps were 55° and gpu was at 40°c

...... its not bad now but summer is when things get a lil hotter

i just want a lil better temp, and to know if it's worth it


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> ambient temps 20°c
> while playing BF4 with vsync off for a couple hour's cpu temps were 55° and gpu was at 40°c
> 
> ...... its not bad now but summer is when things get a lil hotter
> 
> i just want a lil better temp, and to know if it's worth it


Yeah, not bad temps. You probably would get several degrees out of a thicker rad.

What fans are you running?


----------



## geo36089

check out my temps


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah, not bad temps. You probably would get several degrees out of a thicker rad.
> 
> What fans are you running?


i got 9 of these








http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10456/fan-688/Yate_Loon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_Open_Chassis_D12SM-12.html?tl=g36c15s60
in push pull on both 240 rads

i also was reading through this thread gave me a pretty good understanding








http://www.overclock.net/t/1352782/240-monsta-vs-280-ut60/0_50


----------



## lowfat

The problem isn't radiator thickness. The problem is the ridiculously high FPI on the Black Ice Stealths. 1650 RPM fans just do not cut it. Changing the radiators to something w/ a lower FPI should help temperatures considerably.


----------



## phillyd

The Black Ice Stealth rads need a really high static pressure fan. I had great results with Cougars, AP-15's, Corsair Air SP, and Swiftech Helix.


----------



## lilchronic

hmmm so should i go with 4 of these fans
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12363/fan-809/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_3000_RPM_D1225C12B7AP-29.html?tl=g36c15s60

or keep the fans i have and get a 240 monsta ?..


----------



## kpoeticg

Depends on your noise tolerance.AP-29's and up are loud as hell


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The Black Ice Stealth rads need a really high static pressure fan. I had great results with Cougars, AP-15's, Corsair Air SP, and Swiftech Helix.


*WHEW...*

Got a little paranoid, 'cause I have two Stealth radiators and a set of Cougars for each, so you reassured me! Thanks!









Thanks - T


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> hmmm so should i go with 4 of these fans
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12363/fan-809/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_3000_RPM_D1225C12B7AP-29.html?tl=g36c15s60
> 
> or keep the fans i have and get a 240 monsta ?..


get the monsta and AP 15 or 14 you will get same performance but leas noise

the 3000 + RPM fans are why to loud they sound like jets taking off

and any way the Black Ice GT is not that good of a rad
if you really want high performance and don't care for a PC Jet than get the Black Ice GTX + AP 29 that will give you the best performance
but it is so loud i don't think any one can stand the noise coming from there PC


----------



## lilchronic

decisions decisions.

thanks guy's for the tips








i think ill just get the monsta rad and paint it white, i think it will look better and cover up some of the cable's


----------



## KyadCK

So apparently I haven't updated since I first got my Raystorm kit almost a year ago. Lets fix that.


----------



## kpoeticg

You could just buy it white =P
UT60's and Monsta's are sold in white too

KyadCK, great job. Love the pics


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> hmmm so should i go with 4 of these fans
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12363/fan-809/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_3000_RPM_D1225C12B7AP-29.html?tl=g36c15s60
> 
> or keep the fans i have and get a 240 monsta ?..


If you are deaf then yes that would perform extremely well.









Even headphones won't drown out the noise of 4 3000 rpm fans I am afraid.

The Stealths w/ the AP-29s would easily out perform Monstas w/ AP15s.


----------



## Anoxy

They make white monstas though...

beat me by a mile


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You could just buy it white =P
> UT60's and Monsta's are sold in white too


yeah i no but it will cost a lil bit more, rather do it myself


----------



## kpoeticg

It's worth the extra 20 bux to not have to worry about masking/bending/over-painting the fins. Just my opinion


----------



## lowfat

Are the white Monstas powdercoated or painted? If they are just painted I'd rather do it myself as well.


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's worth the extra 20 bux to not have to worry about masking/bending/over-painting the fins. Just my opinion


yea it is kinda a pain, but i wanted to do my fans white also but im not sure how that would look


----------



## WebsterXC

Painted I believe, although the finish on them is relatively thick and very well done.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Couple of quick questions before I start my build

1. How tight do you do barbs, finger tight or a few turns with spanners/pliers etc?

2. Top 360 rad set up for exhaust, do you have the fans on the inside of the rad, so pulling air from the case over the rad then out the case or outside the rad, pulling air just from the rad and out the case? Im using AP-15's on 5v

Thanks


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You could just buy it white =P
> UT60's and Monsta's are sold in white too
> 
> KyadCK, great job. Love the pics


the white monsta and ut60 only come in 360mm

he needs a 240mm


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Couple of quick questions before I start my build
> 
> 1. How tight do you do barbs, finger tight or a few turns with spanners/pliers etc?
> 
> 2. Top 360 rad set up for exhaust, do you have the fans on the inside of the rad, so pulling air from the case over the rad then out the case or outside the rad, pulling air just from the rad and out the case? Im using AP-15's on 5v
> 
> Thanks


there is no real deference from push or pull
but I would tall you to go pull if you can because it will be easy to clean the Tad with out taking off the fans


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Depends on your noise tolerance.AP-29's and up are loud as hell


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> get the monsta and AP 15 or 14 you will get same performance but leas noise
> 
> the 3000 + RPM fans are why to loud they sound like jets taking off
> 
> and any way the Black Ice GT is not that good of a rad
> if you really want high performance and don't care for a PC Jet than get the Black Ice GTX + AP 29 that will give you the best performance
> but it is so loud i don't think any one can stand the noise coming from there PC


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you are deaf then yes that would perform extremely well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even headphones won't drown out the noise of 4 3000 rpm fans I am afraid.
> 
> The Stealths w/ the AP-29s would easily out perform Monstas w/ AP15s.


Why all this hate for AP-29's?







If you PWM mod them they run as AP-15's at full speed!

But yes, they are loud. Running one on my H50, I use Sennheiser PC360 and I cannot hear them when I play music.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I cannot hear them when I play music.


LMAO









I don't want too here my PC in a dead quit room


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Couple of quick questions before I start my build
> 
> 1. How tight do you do barbs, finger tight or a few turns with spanners/pliers etc?
> 
> 2. Top 360 rad set up for exhaust, do you have the fans on the inside of the rad, so pulling air from the case over the rad then out the case or outside the rad, pulling air just from the rad and out the case? Im using AP-15's on 5v
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> there is no real deference from push or pull
> but I would tall you to go pull if you can because it will be easy to clean the Tad with out taking off the fans


1) Finger-tight, it's remarkably easy to strip threads in acetal (although quality varies) or crack acryl .

2) AP15's don't do as well in pull though
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/2/

But I would go with whatever is the more silent solution. Ghost has a point about cleaning rads. Although it's not really an issue with low FPI rads.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> 1) Finger-tight, it's remarkably easy to strip threads in acetal (although quality varies) or crack acryl .
> 
> 2) AP15's don't do as well in pull though
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/2/
> 
> But I would go with whatever is the more silent solution. Ghost has a point about cleaning rads. Although it's not really an issue with low FPI rads.


Thanks, was gonna do them really tight with a spanner









Cleaning the rads hopefully wont be a problem, I have dust filters on all the fans and all my rad fans are on 5v

How would be the recommended way to set the fans up? the rads are AX360 and 240, 5 AP-15 fans on 5v, the front ones I was gonna set up in pull and pull the cool air in same with the back case fan, also an AP-15 but at full speed and the top 3 to get rid of the hot air just unsure now if it should be push or pull


----------



## VSG

There is a rubber O-ring that keeps the barb secure onto your G 1/4 thread. No need to use any tools, just gorilla finger tight


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> LMAO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want too here my PC in a dead quit room


I just turn it off when I want it to be quiet


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's worth the extra 20 bux to not have to worry about masking/bending/over-painting the fins. Just my opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yea it is kinda a pain, but i wanted to do my fans white also but im not sure how that would look
Click to expand...

White Monsta 240 with white fans:


----------



## lilchronic

nice, i think that would look good in the front of my case


----------



## phillyd

Anyone know if silver or chrome alphacool stickers can be found to replace the ones on the rads?


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Anyone know if silver or chrome alphacool stickers can be found to replace the ones on the rads?


Why not make a cutout and paint it on? I bet it would look better than a sticker.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> LMAO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want too here my PC in a dead quit room


I'm sorry, but

"I don't want *to hear* my PC in a dead *quiet* room."

I was catching up on about 20 pages worth of content and came across that and was like


----------



## darwing

About to post a reanimation build log for the core 2 - Here is a sneak peak

Case - Antec 902
Dual Push Pull config XSPC Rad in the front
250ML FrozenQ T-Virus Reservoir
XSPC 7970 GPU Water block
XSPC Raystorm


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Anyone know if silver or chrome alphacool stickers can be found to replace the ones on the rads?


Aquatuning have the copper ones..

No Stuffing required - Elysium
2 x 420's, 1 x 240 and a 140 to go in the rear


----------



## kpoeticg

Another nice build Fast_Fate!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Anyone know if silver or chrome alphacool stickers can be found to replace the ones on the rads?
> 
> 
> 
> Aquatuning have the copper ones..
> 
> No Stuffing required - Elysium
> 2 x 420's, 1 x 240 and a 140 to go in the rear
Click to expand...

The Elysium is no looker but damn she got space.....


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Another nice build Fast_Fate!!!


Thank You








Still got a ways to go - it's a work in progress, so far so good though.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Elysium is no looker but damn she got space.....


Arrgh - But beauty is in the eye of the beholder


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks, was gonna do them really tight with a spanner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaning the rads hopefully wont be a problem, I have dust filters on all the fans and all my rad fans are on 5v
> 
> How would be the recommended way to set the fans up? the rads are AX360 and 240, 5 AP-15 fans on 5v, the front ones I was gonna set up in pull and pull the cool air in same with the back case fan, also an AP-15 but at full speed and the top 3 to get rid of the hot air just unsure now if it should be push or pull


Push or pull wont matter much. Always run intake on your rads. Air outside your case is always cooler than inside so you have cooler air going through your rads which improves cooling ability. Case temps with water cooling dont matter as much with water cooling.

I usually run an exhaust chassis fan in the rear of the case and put rads everywhere else on intake


----------



## derickwm

Pull is a little bit better than push due to not having a "dead zone" in the center.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Pull is a little bit better than push due to not having a "dead zone" in the center.


Push is a little better than pull due to the turbulent air flow.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Pull is a little bit better than push due to not having a "dead zone" in the center.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Push is a little better than pull due to the turbulent air flow.


So one is better than the other and the other is better than the first









really though, most the time there isn't that big of a difference in your temps between one way or the other


----------



## morencyam

I have my GT-00's in push on my rads and using a custom made 1/2" shroud that eliminates and dead zone.
Pull does make cleaning the rads easier though. Either way, there really isn't too much of a performance difference.


----------



## captvizcenzo

I thought the reason we want fans with high static pressure is so that it can push air much better.

Therefore if you are pulling air through the rad, the good pressure you have with fans like GT is useless??


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> I thought the reason we want fans with high static pressure is so that it can push air much better.
> 
> Therefore if you are pulling air through the rad, the good pressure you have with fans like GT is useless??


Fans that can _produce_ high static pressure, have motors capable of _generating more torque_, and therefore can pull as well as they push


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Fans that can _produce_ high static pressure, have motors capable of _generating more torque_, and therefore can pull as well as they push


That makes sense.









But I bet the static pressure produced was measured in push configuration, so we don't really know how good does a fan pull. The blade design, and other features might be engineered in only one way and not the other.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have my GT-00's in push on my rads and using a custom made 1/2" shroud that eliminates and dead zone.
> Pull does make cleaning the rads easier though. Either way, there really isn't too much of a performance difference.


This.

There such a small amount of difference that its moot.

However,pull fans dont need static pressure like a push fan.

Static pressure is generated by the blade design,not the motor torque rating.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> But I bet the static pressure produced was measured in push configuration, so we don't really know how good does a fan pull. The blade design, and other features might be engineered in only one way and not the other.


You have a closed box.
You put a wall in the middle of it.
You cut a fan-shaped-hole in the wall.
You put the fan in between them and switch it on.

You are betting that the pressure in one side of the box will increase more than is lost in the other, because of the blade design?

I will take your bet.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Static pressure is generated by the blade design,not the motor torque rating.


It's the grip of your tires that gets you up hills?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> But I bet the static pressure produced was measured in push configuration, so we don't really know how good does a fan pull. The blade design, and other features might be engineered in only one way and not the other.
> 
> 
> 
> You have a closed box.
> You put a wall in the middle of it.
> You cut a fan-shaped-hole in the wall.
> You put the fan in between them and switch it on.
> 
> You are betting that the pressure in one side of the box will increase more than is lost in the other, because of the blade design?
> 
> I will take your bet.
Click to expand...

All things being equal except the blade design,yes.

Corsair AP/SP fans being a good example. Same motors,different blade design=different performance on a rad.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Same motors,different blade design=different performance on a rad.


There is only a box and a wall, no rad.

You basically attach a U-bend of water which connects to each compartment of the box and see how high the water rises on one side compared to the other.

That's why it's measured in mmH2O

Point was that it'll rise as much on one side as it will drop on the other, therefore static pressure of "push" and of "pull" is equal.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Same motors,different blade design=different performance on a rad.
> 
> 
> 
> There is only a box and a wall, no rad.
> 
> You basically attach a U-bend of water which connects to each compartment of the box and see how high the water rises on one side compared to the other.
> 
> That's why it's measured in mmH2O
> 
> Point was that it'll rise as much on one side as it will drop on the other, therefore static pressure of "push" and of "pull" is equal.
Click to expand...

i agree but my post was answering this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> I thought the reason we want fans with high static pressure is so that it can push air much better.
> 
> Therefore if you are pulling air through the rad, the good pressure you have with fans like GT is useless??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fans that can _produce_ high static pressure, have motors capable of _generating more torque_, and therefore can pull as well as they push
Click to expand...

which is incorrect. Blade design dictates the pressure rating,not the torque of the motor.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You have a closed box.
> You put a wall in the middle of it.
> You cut a fan-shaped-hole in the wall.
> You put the fan in between them and switch it on.
> 
> You are betting that the pressure in one side of the box will increase more than is lost in the other, because of the blade design?
> 
> I will take your bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the grip of your tires that gets you up hills?


That closed box has a fixed volume, so it's not a fair comparison. Anyway I'm not a fluid engineer nor I'm a scientist, so I might be wrong.









As for the up hill climbing, I believe you will need good amount of grip and torque both at the same time.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> That closed box has a fixed volume, so it's not a fair comparison.


That's why it's called static pressure. At a certain point the fan is not strong enough to drive any more air in from one side to the other. The pressure becomes static and the level of the water in the U-bend shows the difference in pressure between the sides.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> As for the up hill climbing, I believe you will need good amount of grip and torque both at the same time.


Yes.

Also angular momentum is a factor. The fan hub and blades acts similar to a flywheel in a car. A fan made of metal will require more power to drive than a plastic fan, but once spinning can introduce greater pressure.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> That closed box has a fixed volume, so it's not a fair comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> That's why it's called static pressure. At a certain point the fan is not strong enough to drive any more air in from one side to the other. The pressure becomes static and the level of the water in the U-bend shows the difference in pressure between the sides.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> As for the up hill climbing, I believe you will need good amount of grip and torque both at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes.
> 
> Also angular momentum is a factor. The fan hub and blades acts similar to a flywheel in a car. *A fan made of metal will require more power to drive than a plastic fan, but once spinning can introduce greater pressure.*
Click to expand...

Not exactly, . . . .

Heavier fan blades and hubs require more torque to accelerate at the same rate as a lighter hub/blade, but once at speed, require no additional power to spin at the same speed, assuming equal blade shape/size.

Part of the reason for better pressures from metal blades is that they flex less and can be made much thinner with sharper leading edges and less drag so that less power is wasted.

The fan in a wall in a closed box with the measurement taken between the two compartments isn't a valid argument.

To be valid, the push test would need to be with the pull side open to atmosphere with the push side closed, and measured as positive pressure to atmosphere, while the pull test would need to be done with the pull side closed and the push side open to atmosphere with the measurement from atmosphere to the pull chamber as a negative pressure.

Blade shape is a factor in whether they work better in push or pull, but you still need the same amount of power to get the same mmH2O whether push or pull.

Darlene


----------



## brandon6199

What are some of the best options for a transparent red tubing/coolant combo?

Mayhems Pastel Red is opaque AFAIK, and I would prefer something that's a transparent red instead.

Should I go for red tubing? Or red dye/coolant? Or both? And if so, which tubing is recommended? If possible, I prefer the actual coolant/distilled water to be colored red as well as long as I won't have issues elsewhere... (I will be using acrylic blocks)

Hoope this makes sense.

*EDIT:* Does anyone have any experience with Mayhems Dye?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17674/ex-liq-264/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Red.html


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> There such a small amount of difference that its moot.
> 
> However,pull fans dont need static pressure like a push fan.
> 
> Static pressure is generated by the blade design,not the motor torque rating.


Hi do you think this fan would be best in push or pull on a UT60 rad? http://www.aquatuning.se/product_info.php/info/p9284_Phobya-Nano-G-12-PWM-LED-Silent-Waterproof-1500rpm---120x120x25mm--.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> There such a small amount of difference that its moot.
> 
> However,pull fans dont need static pressure like a push fan.
> 
> Static pressure is generated by the blade design,not the motor torque rating.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi do you think this fan would be best in push or pull on a UT60 rad? http://www.aquatuning.se/product_info.php/info/p9284_Phobya-Nano-G-12-PWM-LED-Silent-Waterproof-1500rpm---120x120x25mm--.html
Click to expand...

Honestly?

Neither but I wouldn't recommend any Phobya product.....

It really isn't a big deal, go with what you like the look of, push so you can see the fans or pull so its easier to keep the rad clean.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Honestly?
> 
> Neither but I wouldn't recommend any Phobya product.....
> 
> It really isn't a big deal, go with what you like the look of, push so you can see the fans or pull so its easier to keep the rad clean.


i know it's no good but i have a full pc-v8 of them and its hard to get good led fan's


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Honestly?
> 
> Neither but I wouldn't recommend any Phobya product.....
> 
> It really isn't a big deal, go with what you like the look of, push so you can see the fans or pull so its easier to keep the rad clean.
> 
> 
> 
> i know it's no good but i have a full pc-v8 of them and its hard to get good led fan's
Click to expand...

Enermax.

If you want to spend the money,they are not cheap but I can safely say they are the best LED fans on the market.......IMO.


----------



## phillyd

Detailed write-up about the Monsoon Hard Line bending kits:
http://www.modders-inc.com/monsoon-premium-water-cooling-components-hardline-tubing/


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> i know it's no good but i have a full pc-v8 of them and its hard to get good led fan's


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Enermax.
> 
> If you want to spend the money,they are not cheap but I can safely say they are the best LED fans on the market.......IMO.


I like CM R4's as well.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Enermax.
> 
> If you want to spend the money,they are not cheap but I can safely say they are the best LED fans on the market.......IMO.


Enermax is nice but hard to find in europe







think i would go with sp-120 if i changed


----------



## wermad

I luv r4s, so much i have 50+


----------



## randomnerd865

Need an awesome pure white coolant for a reasonable ammount of money! Opinions GO!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Need an awesome pure white coolant for a reasonable ammount of money! Opinions GO!


buy a cow, milk it, add milk to loop, eat cow. problem solved.


----------



## derickwm

All about dem Cougars, if you know what I mean



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> All about dem Cougars, if you know what I mean
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They do look nice...they are not that hideous orange are they?

I quite like those Lepa Chopper fans,shame they are very low RPM...


----------



## derickwm

Of course they are! Wouldn't have it any other way


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I luv r4s, so much i have 50+


I'm kind of surprised you haved scooped up the 11 in the Watercooling FS Thread








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Of course they are! Wouldn't have it any other way


They're so beautiful. I want some for my desk built so bad but can't justify the price as they would only be used as intake fans. I'll probably just pick up four more Xigmatek XLF-F1253 and switch out the white LEDs with orange ones again


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I luv r4s, so much i have 50+


missed that one, can it realy have 3,04 mm H2O? if so maybe it would be worth changing


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> buy a cow, milk it, add milk to loop, eat cow. problem solved.


Seems Legit lol but also Kind of Pricey. Anyone else?


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's why it's called static pressure. At a certain point the fan is not strong enough to drive any more air in from one side to the other. The pressure becomes static and the level of the water in the U-bend shows the difference in pressure between the sides.
> Yes.
> 
> Also angular momentum is a factor. The fan hub and blades acts similar to a flywheel in a car. A fan made of metal will require more power to drive than a plastic fan, but once spinning can introduce greater pressure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not exactly, . . . .
> 
> Heavier fan blades and hubs require more torque to accelerate at the same rate as a lighter hub/blade, but once at speed, require no additional power to spin at the same speed, assuming equal blade shape/size.
> 
> Part of the reason for better pressures from metal blades is that they flex less and can be made much thinner with sharper leading edges and less drag so that less power is wasted.
> 
> The fan in a wall in a closed box with the measurement taken between the two compartments isn't a valid argument.
> 
> *To be valid, the push test would need to be with the pull side open to atmosphere with the push side closed, and measured as positive pressure to atmosphere, while the pull test would need to be done with the pull side closed and the push side open to atmosphere with the measurement from atmosphere to the pull chamber as a negative pressure.*
> 
> Blade shape is a factor in whether they work better in push or pull, but you still need the same amount of power to get the same mmH2O whether push or pull.
> 
> Darlene


I must agree with you, Darlene.
While the closed box test might be good to determine the exact amount of static pressure a fan capable to produce, but it doesn't comply with how we use fans on radiator.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Need an awesome pure white coolant for a reasonable ammount of money! Opinions GO!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> buy a cow, milk it, add milk to loop, eat cow. problem solved.
Click to expand...











On topic: It really comes down on how much you need. Only thing I could think of is ID or Pastel White. ID is 1L, where Mayhems is a concentrate to make 1L (250ml of concentrate + 750ml of di). ID sells for ~$30 and Pastel ~$20, so Mayhems pastel would be cheaper. But it can get expensive for medium to large loops. I ended up w/ three bottles of Pastel for my large loop. Not going pastel anymore since its expensive and colored tube is a cheap alternative







.

Other then that, maybe MayhemsMike (or Mick) has a way to make white or close to it using their dyes (would be totally surprised on how this is made







).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm kind of surprised you haved scooped up the 11 in the Watercooling FS Thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're so beautiful. I want some for my desk built so bad but can't justify the price as they would only be used as intake fans. I'll probably just pick up four more Xigmatek XLF-F1253 and switch out the white LEDs with orange ones again


They're red and blue. I'm all green







. Going to run several rads in the TH10 so might as well stuff it to the brink w/ rads and fans









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> missed that one, can it realy have 3,04 mm H2O? if so maybe it would be worth changing


I already had quite a few and I love that you can drop their voltage extremely low. The specs, its been debated that CM (like some) are using inflated/unrealistic #s. Since I'm not running them full blast and i have several, I really don't mind.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> missed that one, can it realy have 3,04 mm H2O? if so maybe it would be worth changing


That would put them above AP-15's which is fairly unlikely. I've used them as rad fans before and they are nice, but I did get a slight improvement when I switched them out for AP-45 with both fans running around 1600 RPM. So not quite as good as GT's but still one of the better options for fans with LEDs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They're red and blue. I'm all green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Easily changed with a soldering iron, green LEDs, and a lot of patience. I bought a bunch of green LED R4's on clearance from MicroCenter a while back and switched out the Green for Orange. Was a major PITA but was totally worth it in the end


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That would put them above AP-15's which is fairly unlikely. I've used them as rad fans before and they are nice, but I did get a slight improvement when I switched them out for AP-45 with both fans running around 1600 RPM. So not quite as good as GT's but still one of the better options for fans with LEDs


ok and they are cheap, cost 7 euro compared to 13


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> ok and they are cheap, cost 7 euro compared to 13


One more reason I liked them so much. And I really like the black translucent blades


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Easily changed with a soldering iron, green LEDs, and a lot of patience. I bought a bunch of green LED R4's on clearance from MicroCenter a while back and switched out the Green for Orange. Was a major PITA but was totally worth it in the end


Yup, I remember your awesome build. R4s don't get a lot of respect but for the price and having led, its not bad. Slap them on a controller and they are whisper quiet.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

There are now only 2 fans in my life....The AP-15.

And the Alpenfohn pwm fan....



God,that fan is lovely....


----------



## wermad

^^^ looks pretty. Ap are seriously lacking in the looks department. Its the CL of the fan world, more function then form


----------



## Gaahl19

How are The Enermax TB Silences?


----------



## TommyMoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TommyMoore*


Now dual loop and with a colour change.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ looks pretty. Ap are seriously lacking in the looks department. Its the CL of the fan world, more function then form


Enterprise fans are like that tho,all performance and no polish....

I like that tho if im being honest.


----------



## derickwm

Nicely done :thumb:


----------



## TommyMoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Nicely done


Cheers!


----------



## yimmykpekk

What company makes those reservoirs with the DNA looking twirl in it and what kind of fittings do they take? Will it work with EKWBs 1/4 fittings?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To be valid, the push test would need to be with the pull side open to atmosphere with the push side closed, and measured as positive pressure to atmosphere, while the pull test would need to be done with the pull side closed and the push side open to atmosphere with the measurement from atmosphere to the pull chamber as a negative pressure.


Indeed, that is a better test than the closed box


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yimmykpekk*
> 
> What company makes those reservoirs with the DNA looking twirl in it and what kind of fittings do they take? Will it work with EKWBs 1/4 fittings?


FrozenQ. The bay reservoirs can take any fitting. The tube reservoirs are ~60mm in diameter and like many tube reservoirs, fittings may not sit tight due to the shape. I've had a few of these and you may end up needing extensions to clear w/ larger fittings. I know 3/8x1/2 (10mm x 12mm) did clear the EK Adv reservoirs.


----------



## SeeThruHead

So are corsair still using thermal glue to attach the heatspreader to the ram? I've read conflicting reports when searching for google. I'd like to know how to go about removing the heatspreaders from my kit.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233230


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> So are corsair still using thermal glue to attach the heatspreader to the ram? I've read conflicting reports when searching for google. I'd like to know how to go about removing the heatspreaders from my kit.
> 
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233230


I've used several of those kits, and they use a thermal pad strip.

If you need to remove the tops to install water blocks, it's a painless process, just don't get all butch on it and you'll be fine.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> So are corsair still using thermal glue to attach the heatspreader to the ram? I've read conflicting reports when searching for google. I'd like to know how to go about removing the heatspreaders from my kit.
> 
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233230
> 
> 
> 
> I've used several of those kits, and they use a thermal pad strip.
> 
> If you need to remove the tops to install water blocks, it's a painless process, just don't get all butch on it and you'll be fine.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I think he means the HS body rather than the fins. The HS is a pig to get off,heatguns are your friend here....if its thermal glue then its not worth the risk.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> So are corsair still using thermal glue to attach the heatspreader to the ram? I've read conflicting reports when searching for google. I'd like to know how to go about removing the heatspreaders from my kit.
> 
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233230
> 
> 
> 
> I've used several of those kits, and they use a thermal pad strip.
> 
> If you need to remove the tops to install water blocks, it's a painless process, just don't get all butch on it and you'll be fine.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think he means the HS body rather than the fins. The HS is a pig to get off,heatguns are your friend here....if its thermal glue then its not worth the risk.
Click to expand...

Didn't even consider that, most guys get vengeance or a lower cost series if they want to strip the whole heatspreader off.

Perhaps the OP will clarify,

Darlene


----------



## SeeThruHead

Yeah well, I was using the heatspreader with an XSPC waterblock but I just ordered 4x EK monarch modules.



As you see here on the xms3 they were glued. The heatgun got them off but freezing didn't help.

But I have heard people saying that Corsair went back to using thermal pad to attach the heatspreader more recently but I can't confirm it. I'd like to know what I'm dealing with before I start trying to peel off the spreader on my kit.

EDIT: I'm not going to risk it, I will be selling the ram instead and getting some ripjaws probably. Wish I had 30 reps here.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Need some help, my res pump combo thing is leaking where the rest bottom connects to the pump top



Just above the screw driver, the o rings and OUT port plug are in and all but 1 screw will go in tight, it just keeps turning not locking in place. Its leaking from all sides tho









Edit: it seems like the leaks coming from the back right screw that won't lock in place, how would I go about fixing it?


----------



## davidelite10




----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Need some help, my res pump combo thing is leaking where the rest bottom connects to the pump top
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just above the screw driver, the o rings and OUT port plug are in and all but 1 screw will go in tight, it just keeps turning not locking in place. Its leaking from all sides tho


.
It sounds like one of the screws is stripped out and the top isn't sealing. Is there an o-ring that goes between the two pieces that could have slid out of place? I had that happen to me when I put my CPU block back together after cleaning. The gasket slid out of place and it was leaking from all the sides like your top is
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are you only using two screws to mount the CPU block?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> .Are you only using two screws to mount the CPU block?


Amd mb w/ intel cpu block









solution:

-buy amd cpu block
-buy amd block bracket
-buy Enzotech amd to intel bracket (will need some slight modding).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Need some help, my res pump combo thing is leaking where the rest bottom connects to the pump top
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just above the screw driver, the o rings and OUT port plug are in and all but 1 screw will go in tight, it just keeps turning not locking in place. Its leaking from all sides tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> It sounds like one of the screws is stripped out and the top isn't sealing. Is there an o-ring that goes between the two pieces that could have slid out of place? I had that happen to me when I put my CPU block back together after cleaning. The gasket slid out of place and it was leaking from all the sides like your top is
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Are you only using two screws to mount the CPU block?
Click to expand...

Those D5 Upgrade Kits come with screws that are too short to adequately hold in plastics.

Take the one that's stripped to the hardware store, it should be 3mm diameter, and get some 2mm longer and some 4mm longer.

If the 4mm are just a bit too long, dremel off a mm or so.

The idea is to get them to have as many threads holding as possible, but not be so long that they can't cause the o ring to compress enough to seal.

Once you get a perfect length screw, it should hold enough in the partially stripped hole, other wise you'll be buying a new top, . . .

but at least you'll have the right length screws this time.









Darlene


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Amd mb w/ intel cpu block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> solution:
> 
> -buy amd cpu block
> -buy amd block bracket
> -buy Enzotech amd to intel bracket (will need some slight modding).


Lol you guys caught me!
Got the XSPC Rasa block and well, it said AMD compatible clearly they're correct with heavy modding haha.
Had to bend the other 2 wings up to fit them for my ram and NB heatsink. Don't mind the drunk Res either!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> .
> It sounds like one of the screws is stripped out and the top isn't sealing. Is there an o-ring that goes between the two pieces that could have slid out of place? I had that happen to me when I put my CPU block back together after cleaning. The gasket slid out of place and it was leaking from all the sides like your top is


I think the plastic it screws into is stripped no matter how hard I screw it, it won't bite in again



The bottom of the res ^ when I put it on the top even without screwing it in it seems like its bowed up  Idunno wwhat's going on, I am using the extreme version of the top but the o rings meet up with the 3/8 holes, or maybe there not meant to?


----------



## morencyam

That's my guess too. I would try what Darlene suggested hoping you get lucky with a cheap fix.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Thanks, I'll have a try, now that I look at it, it does seem like the o rings arnt getting compressed enough

3rd time of trying to put this stupid crap together, almost ready to sell it and just go a h100i -_-

Edit: rummaging around and I found these screws



There not the exact size as the stock one, far left but pretty close. Think worth a try or try and get the right size ones?


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> What are some of the best options for a transparent red tubing/coolant combo?
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Red is opaque AFAIK, and I would prefer something that's a transparent red instead.
> 
> Should I go for red tubing? Or red dye/coolant? Or both? And if so, which tubing is recommended? If possible, I prefer the actual coolant/distilled water to be colored red as well as long as I won't have issues elsewhere... (I will be using acrylic blocks)
> 
> Hoope this makes sense.
> 
> *EDIT:* Does anyone have any experience with Mayhems Dye?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17674/ex-liq-264/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Red.html


Anyone?


----------



## chann3l

Added my 7950 to my loop, swapped to a Bitfenix recon and went from an XFX 750 watt to an XFX 850 pro full modular gold rated PSU. Pictures below, Camera is bad and does not do it justice


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Anyone?


I've used Mathems Orange dye and was vey happy with it. I just drained for the first lime in a little over a year and there was no gunk or staining in any of the blocks or anything else for that matter. However, I wasn't using clear tubing so I'm not sure how it would have affected that. I've heard that some of the reds, pink and purple can have minor staining but nothing that can't be cleaned of the blocks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> Lol you guys caught me!
> Got the XSPC Rasa block and well, it said AMD compatible clearly they're correct with heavy modding haha.
> Had to bend the other 2 wings up to fit them for my ram and NB heatsink. Don't mind the drunk Res either!


I've seen a few of these setups. What are your temps like? From recollection, I don't think it comes w/ the amd braket (most likely to save money, xspc style). Or least mine didn't come with one.

Here's the Rasa amd version:


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've seen a few of these setups. What are your temps like? From recollection, I don't think it comes w/ the amd braket (most likely to save money, xspc style). Or least mine didn't come with one.
> 
> Here's the Rasa amd version:


At 4.68ghz I sit at most 62c load with prime 95 for 4 hours.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> At 4.68ghz I sit at most 62c load with prime 95 for 4 hours.


Pretty good







. Well, if ain't broke, don't fix it









Btw. love your avatar (Asuka







)!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Added my 7950 to my loop, swapped to a Bitfenix recon and went from an XFX 750 watt to an XFX 850 pro full modular gold rated PSU. Pictures below, Camera is bad and does not do it justice
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Perhaps try pointing a light source *at* your computer when taking the pictures next time


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> What are some of the best options for a transparent red tubing/coolant combo?
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Red is opaque AFAIK, and I would prefer something that's a transparent red instead.
> 
> Should I go for red tubing? Or red dye/coolant? Or both? And if so, which tubing is recommended? If possible, I prefer the actual coolant/distilled water to be colored red as well as long as I won't have issues elsewhere... (I will be using acrylic blocks)
> 
> Hoope this makes sense.
> 
> *EDIT:* Does anyone have any experience with Mayhems Dye?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17674/ex-liq-264/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Red.html


If you go with dye and want translucent fluid, your options are premix or dying distilled water.

mayhems x1 is a good premix/concentrate with biocides and anti inhibitors in it. It has a good life span in your system too

Mayhems dye is good dye. You could go distilled water, mayhems red or deep red, and then throw a kill coil in there


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks, I'll have a try, now that I look at it, it does seem like the o rings arnt getting compressed enough
> 
> 3rd time of trying to put this stupid crap together, almost ready to sell it and just go a h100i -_-
> 
> Edit: rummaging around and I found these screws
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There not the exact size as the stock one, far left but pretty close. Think worth a try or try and get the right size ones?


Not worth a try. Just get the ones that Darlene suggested.

I had issues too with my upgrade kit. The head on one of the stock screws was physically too large to be sunk into the pump top, so I took a dremel to it and fixed it.

I then had issues with leaking in the same spots as you mentioned, but that was because I had forgotten the second o-ring down there.

So, see if you can find the right screws and then double check your o rings.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pretty good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Well, if ain't broke, don't fix it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw. love your avatar (Asuka
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )!


Lol thanks, I have all of evangelion physically even 3.33, favorite anime of all time.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> Lol thanks, I have all of evangelion physically even 3.33, favorite anime of all time.


NGE is like the hotest and greatest gf you've ever had. Then she dumps you shattering your heart into a billion pieces. Well, that's how I felt after the original ending, the remake ending, and the reboots (ep. 3 wth?!?!?!?! and then pending ep.4!).

On-topic. How's the smear pattern? should be a good indication of contact on the Rasa block.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On topic: It really comes down on how much you need. Only thing I could think of is ID or Pastel White. ID is 1L, where Mayhems is a concentrate to make 1L (250ml of concentrate + 750ml of di). ID sells for ~$30 and Pastel ~$20, so Mayhems pastel would be cheaper. But it can get expensive for medium to large loops. I ended up w/ three bottles of Pastel for my large loop. Not going pastel anymore since its expensive and colored tube is a cheap alternative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Other then that, maybe MayhemsMike (or Mick) has a way to make white or close to it using their dyes (would be totally surprised on how this is made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> They're red and blue. I'm all green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Going to run several rads in the TH10 so might as well stuff it to the brink w/ rads and fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already had quite a few and I love that you can drop their voltage extremely low. The specs, its been debated that CM (like some) are using inflated/unrealistic #s. Since I'm not running them full blast and i have several, I really don't mind.


My rig currently has about 6L of fluid in it. That fluid being 1L of Ice Dragon and 5L of distilled water. I tried to keep the ratio at 1:5 but bleeding lowered the res level and I just topped it off with distilled. I'm saying this because you can in fact run Ice Dragon diluted without any adverse affects. They claim it causes settling and whatever else but I doubt it; they just want you to buy more. The best part is that the white is still pure white. Later this month I plan on buying a few more watercooling things and when I put in an order I'll order another bottle of Ice Dragon just to keep the ratio right.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> At 4.68ghz I sit at most 62c load with prime 95 for 4 hours.


62 is NOT recommended for AMD processors. They claim the max safe voltage is in fact 62c. So I'd take it down unless you want your 8320 to live a short life.

I only chime in on that because I've got plenty experience overclocking the 8350. I had one stable at 5.19 and it was always a challenge keeping temps bearable.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> My rig currently has about 6.5L of fluid in it. That fluid being 1L of Ice Dragon and 5.5L of distilled water. I tried to keep the ratio at 1:5 but bleeding lowered the res level and I just topped it off with distilled. I'm saying this because you can in fact run Ice Dragon diluted without any adverse affects. They claim it causes settling and whatever else but I doubt it; they just want you to buy more. The best part is that the white is still pure white. Later this month I plan on buying a few more watercooling things and when I put in an order I'll order another bottle of Ice Dragon just to keep the ratio right.


Nice to know







. So the white is still the same as when it was non-diluted? Would have gone w/ some ID then for my build rather then colored tube.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> My rig currently has about 6L of fluid in it. That fluid being 1L of Ice Dragon and 5L of distilled water. I tried to keep the ratio at 1:5 but bleeding lowered the res level and I just topped it off with distilled. I'm saying this because you can in fact run Ice Dragon diluted without any adverse affects. They claim it causes settling and whatever else but I doubt it; they just want you to buy more. The best part is that the white is still pure white. Later this month I plan on buying a few more watercooling things and when I put in an order I'll order another bottle of Ice Dragon just to keep the ratio right.
> 62 is NOT recommended for AMD processors. They claim the max safe voltage is in fact 62c. So I'd take it down unless you want your 8320 to live a short life.
> 
> I only chime in on that because I've got plenty experience overclocking the 8350. I had one stable at 5.19 and it was always a challenge keeping temps bearable.


That's the peak it hit at *4 hours prime95*, no amount of gamind, video encoding ect, will ever push 90% on all cores. I haven't gone above 54c playing BF4 for 3 hours.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So the white is still the same as when it was non-diluted? Would have gone w/ some ID then for my build rather then colored tube.


Yessir! Though really try to keep the ratio at 1:5. I decided 1:5 was the most extreme I wanted to go in terms of diluting it. Well, mainly because I used the whole bottle and kept track of how much water I used until my system was full









BUT it remained a pure white..luckily. I wouldn't push it passed that ratio though. When I redo the loop I'll try to do 1:4.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> That's the peak it hit at *4 hours prime95*, no amount of gamind, video encoding ect, will ever push 90% on all cores. I haven't gone above 54c playing BF4 for 3 hours.


Right on, just sayin. I wouldn't want you to let it cook on prime95 just to make sure it's stable ya know?


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Yessir! Though really try to keep the ratio at 1:5. I decided 1:5 was the most extreme I wanted to go in terms of diluting it. Well, mainly because I used the whole bottle and kept track of how much water I used until my system was full
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT it remained a pure white..luckily. I wouldn't push it passed that ratio though. When I redo the loop I'll try to do 1:4.
> Right on, just sayin. I wouldn't want you to let it cook on prime95 just to make sure it's stable ya know?


Oh I know, I never push past 60c, ever. It was one of those LLC voltage spikes that made it go bonkers real quick. After that it leveled at 58-60c.
Thanks for looking out fo rme


----------



## wermad

Prime and IBT really are for maximum temp #s and most importantly, cpu stability imho. Even in my MMG setups, its never going to push the cpu as hard as it did for stability testing.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I gotta question for you guys. Hoping to find some sort of solution to the pickle I'm in.

By sheer luck I found another 8gb of the Samsung wonder ram, so that puts me at 16gb, which is fine. BUT, the kit isn't necessarily good on the eyes; no heat spreaders, super low profile so it almost looks like there isn't any ram in the slots to being with.

SO I want to water cool them. But because they're so low profile, most heat spreader kits that are designed for water blocks to be mounted to them are made to accommodate the taller more common ram.

I'd have a sizable gap between the "ceiling" of the heat spreader and the ram stick itself.

So, any ideas on how I could pull this off?

Here's some pics for reference.

(these are from my old "Nazara" build log)





and these are the 3 types of heat spreaders that I know of that can be mounted to non dominator ram sticks:

XSPC


EK


Bitspower


----------



## Ragsters

Can someone tell me which loop makes more sense? I don't think I need the left 90 deg fitting on the south bridge so ignore that.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Heys guys and gals....got 2 questions to ask....

1) Whats the highest temps i should see running my setup of a 360 and a 240 rad....? Reason i asked is because i have gone as high as 53c when the weather was about 39c outside and inside yet abit cooler but not by much with really bad humidity....

2) I was thinking of adding another 240 rad to my setup but was told i wouldn't see a drop in temps,yet most people say the more rads the better....


----------



## Sunreeper

1) depends on what hardware you have I'm on mobile right now so I can't see your rig

2) people say the more rads the better because you have more surface area to release the heat from your loop. The more rads you have the closer you'll theoretically be able to reach room temperature. Of course there's always a point of diminishing return.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> 1) depends on what hardware you have I'm on mobile right now so I can't see your rig
> 
> 2) people say the more rads the better because you have more surface area to release the heat from your loop. The more rads you have the closer you'll theoretically be able to reach room temperature. Of course there's always a point of diminishing return.


I'm running an intel 3820 overclocked to 4.5 and sli 780's....


----------



## Sunreeper

53c is completely fine for the 780s not sure about the 3820 but temps look completely fine especially for such high ambient


----------



## Drifbau5

Upgraded my loop and though I'd post it. New Ek 770 block and followed your advice and got a extra 120 rad. Happy I did! It wasn't as though as I thought it would be cramming it in there. Next step will be to try out some glass side panels I think. Water cooling my GPU also got rid of a lot of dust intake along with lowering temps







.

Also If you guys could help me gets some votes it would be awesome. http://www.asus.com/microsite/2013/MB/gold_rush_promotion/Build.aspx?p=79 You could win some motherboards too by voting. Thanks ahead of time.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Not worth a try. Just get the ones that Darlene suggested.
> 
> I had issues too with my upgrade kit. The head on one of the stock screws was physically too large to be sunk into the pump top, so I took a dremel to it and fixed it.
> 
> I then had issues with leaking in the same spots as you mentioned, but that was because I had forgotten the second o-ring down there.
> 
> So, see if you can find the right screws and then double check your o rings.


Well I kinda worked out what was going wrong, not only was the screws well... screwed the holes in the pump top are exactly where the o rings on the res bottom to the o rings kept kinda falling into it. Long story short I ended up contacting the store I got the top from seeing if I could change my extreme version 3/8" threads to the standard 1/4" and they said I could







only problem is its clear acrylic









So Im when I get this new top Im either gonna have to paint it or seeing its plastic maybe dye it black, has anyone ever done something like this on a pump top, could it put more crap into the loop?

Once I get my new top this is how its gonna look











Not as pretty as most but







leave me alone its my first time


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Heys guys and gals....got 2 questions to ask....
> 
> 1) Whats the highest temps i should see running my setup of a 360 and a 240 rad....? Reason i asked is because i have gone as high as 53c when the weather was about 39c outside and inside yet abit cooler but not by much with really bad humidity....
> 
> 2) I was thinking of adding another 240 rad to my setup but was told i wouldn't see a drop in temps,yet most people say the more rads the better....


That is already very good temp but if you can add more rad(s) in your case, then go ahead. I would, even if I won't get any reduction in temp. At least I can run fans at lower speed.

BTW, can you post screenshot of the temps?


----------



## wermad

Still got 15 more incoming











Bring on the R4 hate


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That is already very good temp but if you can add more rad(s) in your case, then go ahead. I would, even if I won't get any reduction in temp. At least I can run fans at lower speed.
> 
> BTW, can you post screenshot of the temps?


Just for the record its not 39c today its only 20c....










Just wanted to know if another 240 rad would help because it can go as high as 43c here in summer which is just around the corner....


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still got 15 more incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring on the R4 hate


w--why?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> w--why?


Incoming Case Labs TH10, five 480mm rads, two 240s.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Incoming Case Labs TH10, five 480mm rads, two 240s.










Are you cooling a nuclear reactor or something?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> w--why?


why not? this is OCN!!!!!

you go wermad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you cooling a nuclear reactor or something?


Well, not exactly but close enough:



This is probably my last build for a while (promised the better half to stop after this one). Might as well go all out







.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Heyyyyy EK, when are the X-Res D5 "clean" CSQs coming? Looking to get one as soon as possible.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> its......a repost.
> 
> Shoggy man,new pics at least yeah?
> It is beautiful tho...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It is the nickel plated version which as not be posted before.
Click to expand...

Oh snap....must have confused it with this one







:


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Just for the record its not 39c today its only 20c....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to know if another 240 rad would help because it can go as high as 43c here in summer which is just around the corner....


53C in 39C ambient pretty good already. Just to clarify, 39C is the room temperature indoors right (where your pc located)? For sure in 43C ambient, it's going to be between high 50s to low 60s Celsius. This temp pretty good. Nothing to worry there.

Mine max at 71C in 32C ambient. If I'm not mistaken all 5 SP120 fans are running between 80% to full speed (360 + 240 for 3820 & ATI 5870).


Spoiler: Achtung: Spoiler!







With all 5 SP120 fans running with voltage step-down adapter & further set to 80% speed using fan controller, mine max at 70C in 26C ambient.


Spoiler: Achtung: Spoiler!







My temps pretty high. Going to try re-seat & rotate the CPU block to 90 degrees.


----------



## Playerxl

Here is mine


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 53C in 39C ambient pretty good already. Just to clarify, 39C is the room temperature indoors right (where your pc located)? For sure in 43C ambient, it's going to be between high 50s to low 60s Celsius. This temp pretty good. Nothing to worry there.
> 
> Mine max at 71C in 32C ambient. If I'm not mistaken all 5 SP120 fans are running between 80% to full speed (360 + 240 for 3820 & ATI 5870).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Achtung: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all 5 SP120 fans running with voltage step-down adapter & further set to 80% speed using fan controller, mine max at 70C in 26C ambient.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Achtung: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps pretty high. Going to try re-seat & rotate the CPU block to 90 degrees.


The room temps was about 34/35c,they are days when the humidity gets go bad you might as well be outside....I two have a voltage reducer on my 360 rad fans,so the highest they really go is about 1600-1700,but mostly game at 1200 rpm with good weather 25c and below,above 30c depending on the game i will run them at the full 1600....I have gelid wings and corsair 120 sp quiet edition on the bottom rad which runs full spped on a hot day also....I didnt expect to see 71c on a water cooled gpu,you definitely need to re-seat....I'm pretty knew to water cooling so i just wanted to know if 53/55 would be too high for a water cooled setup,good to know that i have good/ok temps....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Not worth a try. Just get the ones that Darlene suggested.
> 
> I had issues too with my upgrade kit. The head on one of the stock screws was physically too large to be sunk into the pump top, so I took a dremel to it and fixed it.
> 
> I then had issues with leaking in the same spots as you mentioned, but that was because I had forgotten the second o-ring down there.
> 
> So, see if you can find the right screws and then double check your o rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I kinda worked out what was going wrong, not only was the screws well... screwed the holes in the pump top are exactly where the o rings on the res bottom to the o rings kept kinda falling into it. Long story short I ended up contacting the store I got the top from seeing if I could change my extreme version 3/8" threads to the standard 1/4" and they said I could
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only problem is its clear acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So Im when I get this new top Im either gonna have to paint it or seeing its plastic maybe dye it black, has anyone ever done something like this on a pump top, could it put more crap into the loop?
> 
> Once I get my new top this is how its gonna look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not as pretty as most but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> leave me alone its my first time
Click to expand...

Ahhhhh, you have the extreme with the giant G3/8 holes . . . .

You have 2 options though, that keeps your acetal top so you don't have to paint an acrylic one . . . . . .

Option one, the cheap and dirty option,

Make yourself a flat gasket to use instead of the orings from some gasket material . . . auto parts store or hardware store

You'll still need longer 3mm screws to make this work.

Option two, the better option . . . . that isn't dependent on the 4 screws at all . . .

Use a G3/8 to G1/4 adapter,

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1206&products_id=29050

a male to male connector, plain or rotary,

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=26458

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_629&products_id=29052

and get this end cap for your tube res:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1161&products_id=36968

Darlene


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ahhhhh, you have the extreme with the giant G3/8 holes . . . .
> 
> You have 2 option2 though, that keeps your acetal top so you don't have to paint an acrylic one . . . . . .
> 
> Option one, the cheap and dirty option,
> 
> Make yourself a flat gasket to use instead of the orings from some gasket material . . . auto parts store or hardware store
> 
> You'll still need longer 3mm screws to make this work.
> 
> Option two, the better option . . . . that isn't dependent on the 4 screws at all . . .
> 
> Use a G3/8 to G1/4 adapter,
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1206&products_id=29050
> 
> a male to male connector, plain or rotary,
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=26458
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_629&products_id=29052
> 
> and get this end cap for your tube res:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1161&products_id=36968
> 
> Darlene


Thanks I'll have a look and a think about it

I was thinking of maybe taking this top back and then ordering the normal 1/4 one from FrozenCPU or something, it would cost about $20 more in shipping but at least I'd have what I want







and then hopefully the stupid thing would work







damn 3/8 threads

Should of really thought about this before buying everything


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ahhhhh, you have the extreme with the giant G3/8 holes . . . .
> 
> You have 2 option2 though, that keeps your acetal top so you don't have to paint an acrylic one . . . . . .
> 
> Option one, the cheap and dirty option,
> 
> Make yourself a flat gasket to use instead of the orings from some gasket material . . . auto parts store or hardware store
> 
> You'll still need longer 3mm screws to make this work.
> 
> Option two, the better option . . . . that isn't dependent on the 4 screws at all . . .
> 
> Use a G3/8 to G1/4 adapter,
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1206&products_id=29050
> 
> a male to male connector, plain or rotary,
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=26458
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_629&products_id=29052
> 
> and get this end cap for your tube res:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1161&products_id=36968
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks I'll have a look and a think about it
> 
> I was thinking of maybe taking this top back and then ordering the normal 1/4 one from FrozenCPU or something, it would cost about $20 more in shipping but at least I'd have what I want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then hopefully the stupid thing would work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> damn 3/8 threads
> 
> Should of really thought about this before buying everything
Click to expand...

If you end up staying with the square upgrade kit res base that screws to the pump top, make sure you get allen head screws 2mm longer than the originals.

The screw lengths that come with the kit are just not adequate for threading into plastics.

You'll need to get allen heads to fit in the recesses, but you could, in a pinch, grind the head diameter down a little if you can only find regular pan heads.

Darlene


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks I'll have a look and a think about it
> 
> I was thinking of maybe taking this top back and then ordering the normal 1/4 one from FrozenCPU or something, it would cost about $20 more in shipping but at least I'd have what I want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then hopefully the stupid thing would work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> damn 3/8 threads
> 
> Should of really thought about this before buying everything


I stripped the threads on my MCP35X stock top. Just took a longer bolt (M3 IIRC) and screwed it all the way through the top. Then I put a metal washer and nut on the top. Probably an even more secure solution than the original


----------



## wermad

any one have flow charts for the Koolance QD3?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you end up staying with the square upgrade kit res base that screws to the pump top, make sure you get allen head screws 2mm longer than the originals.
> 
> The screw lengths that come with the kit are just not adequate for threading into plastics.
> 
> You'll need to get allen heads to fit in the recesses, but you could, in a pinch, grind the head diameter down a little if you can only find regular pan heads.
> 
> Darlene


Id rather stay with the square kit atm, its just easier while I still sleeve and cut the cables to the right sizes









Thats what I was thinking, getting longer screws and if necessary filing the ends to points so they dig into the plastic and also maybe if I absolutely have to, a small drop of thread lock on the very end of each screw just so I know there not going anywhere







, thread lock could be a little over the top tho








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> I stripped the threads on my MCP35X stock top. Just took a longer bolt (M3 IIRC) and screwed it all the way through the top. Then I put a metal washer and nut on the top. Probably an even more secure solution than the original


Ah well thats always an option







already drilled through one of my bottom plates in my CaseLabs case to secure the pump


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> The room temps was about 34/35c,they are days when the humidity gets go bad you might as well be outside....I two have a voltage reducer on my 360 rad fans,so the highest they really go is about 1600-1700,but mostly game at 1200 rpm with good weather 25c and below,above 30c depending on the game i will run them at the full 1600....I have gelid wings and corsair 120 sp quiet edition on the bottom rad which runs full spped on a hot day also....I didnt expect to see *71c on a water cooled gpu*,you definitely need to re-seat....I'm pretty knew to water cooling so i just wanted to know if 53/55 would be too high for a water cooled setup,good to know that i have good/ok temps....


Actually 71C on the CPU, not GPU. GPU around 40s to low 50s Celsius. When gaming CPU around 50s Celsius @4.5GHz.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still got 15 more incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring on the R4 hate


I've got 11 incoming








Have to get more 3mm orange LEDs now too


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've got 11 incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to get more 3mm orange LEDs now too


Did I miss something or is there something special about those fans?


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> Upgraded my loop and though I'd post it. New Ek 770 block and followed your advice and got a extra 120 rad. Happy I did! It wasn't as though as I thought it would be cramming it in there. Next step will be to try out some glass side panels I think. Water cooling my GPU also got rid of a lot of dust intake along with lowering temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Also If you guys could help me gets some votes it would be awesome. http://www.asus.com/microsite/2013/MB/gold_rush_promotion/Build.aspx?p=79 You could win some motherboards too by voting. Thanks ahead of time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful build man!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Did I miss something or is there something special about those fans?


They are some of the better performing LED fans. I've used them before and love them. They undervolt very well on a fan controller making them damn near silent once you hit around 1500 rpm. Plus, for the price I got them, I couldn't pass them up


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> any one have flow charts for the Koolance QD3?


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/07/02/koolance-qd-series/


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Perhaps try pointing a light source *at* your computer when taking the pictures next time


Thanks, good plan, I was just in a hurry lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Namron has done some block testing...EK has done well....My HK3's not so much.


----------



## tiborrr12

That review serves no purpose at all. No delta = no comparability.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've got 11 incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to get more 3mm orange LEDs now too


Kewl









Wish your scrap build was alive







. Orange builds are so awesome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Did I miss something or is there something special about those fans?


What Morencyam said. They're not the best but I do like that they do a lot of things pretty good. I'm ran them as low as 2-3v, if I recall, using a Scythe controller. Right now there all on a Mix 2 controller which goes as low as 40% power (4.8v), ~800rpm, and its virtually dead except my 35x humming away at 100% power. I can get the pump down w/ the controller but after this setup, the pump won't have a channel available







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/07/02/koolance-qd-series/


Thanks


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish your scrap build was alive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Orange builds are so awesome


You'll love my new one that' coming!

Oh, so much orange and blue, and just in time for our second-worst season in my lifetime! YAY!









Thanks - T


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, not exactly but close enough:
> 
> This is probably my last build for a while (promised the better half to stop after this one). Might as well go all out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Will there be a build log?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Namron has done some block testing...EK has done well....My HK3's not so much.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Little surprised at the HeatKillers........but:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> That review serves no purpose at all. No delta = no comparability.


I was thinking this as well....


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, not exactly but close enough:
> 
> This is probably my last build for a while (promised the better half to stop after this one). Might as well go all out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Will there be a build log?
Click to expand...

Check his sig


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Check his sig


Thanks, I overlooked it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks, I overlooked it.


Once the TH10 is in, I'll be starting a new log for that one. I'm just posting updates for the parts that come (and go) for this upcoming build.


----------



## steelkevin

WOW !!

I just went to fetch my GPU Water Cooling order (two bitspower fittings, an additionnal meter of tubing just in case, fan splitters, alphacool's velcro pump mounting thing, a R9 290X Plexi / Nickel block and its backplate) and while since yesterday I was regretting my order because I found the 290/290X block looked like crap.

Oh god was I wrong. Photos really don't do it ANY justice AT ALL. It's beautiful just like the backplate only even more







!

Oh and the bitspower fittings are disappointing visually, thought they'd look much better but they're great in terms of "performance". They screw all the way easily using only my fingers and the tubing doesn't stick to it while screwing it down which is great !

Thank you EK for your products







.

PS: no photos because I returned my 280X to get a 290 and am still waiting for them to refund me so I can order the GPU.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish your scrap build was alive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Orange builds are so awesome


Well it kind of is. Just instead of the aluminum and acrylic case I'm building myself a new desk to house it the rig. I have the main body of the desk built with the first coat of paint. Still need to make the legs, cut the window into the to top of the desk, then assemble. Once the desk is finished and start assembling everything I may start a log. That's where those R4's are going. Get some push-pull going on my rads. If my Lund PomPlex would ever sell I could get my second Bitspower res but nobody seems to be interested in it. Somewhat surprising since it is such a unique res


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> That review serves no purpose at all. No delta = no comparability.


Ambient was given in the review as 24.9/25.2°c
Water temp changed less than 0.5°c between the blocks but it wasnt given.
More of a man on the street review
Also..

1). Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF (Copper/Stainless steel).= 253L/hr cold to 260L/hr hot..
2). Watercoll Heatkiller Rev3.0 (copper/Stainless steel)..........= 272L/hr cold to 280L/hr hot
3). EK-Supremacy Full Copper............................................ ....= 308L/hr cold to 317L/hr hot
4). EK-Supreme LTX CSQ (Nickle/Plexi).................................= 298L/hr cold to 304L/hr hot
5). XSPC Raystorm (Copper/Plexi)..........................................= 293L/hr cold to 302L/hr hot

Hot and cold flowrates.


----------



## MiiX

Can a _UT60_ 360 cool 2x GTX780's and a i7-4770K?


----------



## derickwm

Depends what your definition of cool is. Yes it will cool it @stock clocks with respectable temps but once you start OC'ing them the components are going to heat up real quick.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Can a 360 cool 2x GTX780's and a i7-4770K?


IN GENERAL, the rule is 120.1 to start, and 120.1 for each component, so by that math, you'd want about 480 (120.4) in space.

While it's a science, it's also down to what you're doing with them too! Keep that in mind.

Thanks -T


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends what your definition of cool is. Yes it will cool it @stock clocks with respectable temps but once you start OC'ing them the components are going to heat up real quick.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> IN GENERAL, the rule is 120.1 to start, and 120.1 for each component, so by that math, you'd want about 480 (120.4) in space.
> 
> While it's a science, it's also down to what you're doing with them too! Keep that in mind.
> 
> Thanks -T


Would _adding_ a UT60 120/140 work if OCing?Its not going to be massive OC's, minor ones I guess.
If this second rad wont do the trick, its going to be a single GPU build. Fans will be AP15/29 or eLoops, not decided yet by the guy who is getting this, hopefully


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Can a _UT60_ 360 cool 2x GTX780's and a i7-4770K?


If you don't mind using like 2400 rpm fans it wouldn't have a problem.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you don't mind using like 2400 rpm fans it wouldn't have a problem.


It may be running AP29







So its a maybe, but a 140/120 rad added would do the trick I guess.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> It may be running AP29
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So its a maybe, but a 140/120 rad added would do the trick I guess.


If you are running them full speed the UT60 will EASILY be enough. A radiator can dissipate a ton of heat once you start cranking up the fans.


----------



## wholeeo

Can anyone help me understand my flow going into and out of my gpu blocks. First time I used this type of route, temps seem to be the same as when I was using the bottom port as an outlet in parallel, it also looks cleaner to me so I'll stick to it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Can anyone help me understand my flow going into and out of my gpu blocks. First time I used this type of route, temps seem to be the same as when I was using the bottom port as an outlet in parallel, it also looks cleaner to me so I'll stick to it.


The reason being that since you're just running two cards there really isn't going to be much of a noticeable difference in your temps from going to a parallel as opposed to a serial configuration. As long as you have a good pump that is. It's once you start going to triple and quadruple GPU configuration will your loop configuration really make a difference. I'm sure someone will tell me if I'm wrong, but I think this is essentially the way it works.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Can anyone help me understand my flow going into and out of my gpu blocks. First time I used this type of route, temps seem to be the same as when I was using the bottom port as an outlet in parallel, it also looks cleaner to me so I'll stick to it.


Parallel, flow goes in both cards at the same time on one side. It then exits simultaneously on the other side. As long as you're exiting on the opposite side, you can use bottom or top ports. That's the nice thing about parallel, its bit more flexible. Series/serial has a direct route it takes so depending on the amount of blocks and it may exit one or the other side.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Parallel, flow goes in both cards at the same time on one side. It then exits simultaneously on the other side. As long as you're exiting on the opposite side, you can use bottom or top ports. That's the nice thing about parallel, its bit more flexible. Series/serial has a direct route it takes so depending on the amount of blocks and it may exit one or the other side.


And there's your clarification.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Parallel, flow goes in both cards at the same time on one side. It then exits simultaneously on the other side. As long as you're exiting on the opposite side, you can use bottom or top ports. That's the nice thing about parallel, its bit more flexible. Series/serial has a direct route it takes so depending on the amount of blocks and it may exit one or the other side.












Mindblown, could have sworn it was serial in some sort of way. Never thought they could fill simultaneously from one side. Thanks wermad!


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Can anyone help me understand my flow going into and out of my gpu blocks. First time I used this type of route, temps seem to be the same as when I was using the bottom port as an outlet in parallel, it also looks cleaner to me so I'll stick to it.


What sort of tubing is that? Anyone know where I can get my hands on it?


----------



## derickwm

Appears to be sleeved tubing, usually done with sleeve meant for SATA cables. Big fan of it myself.


----------



## SeeThruHead

looks like tubing covered in sleeving.

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve-kits-tools/sleeve-kits/tubing-sleeve-pack.htm


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> (these are from my old "Nazara" build log)


I need these [email protected] Someone sell me 16gb


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Mindblown, could have sworn it was serial in some sort of way. Never thought they could fill simultaneously from one side. Thanks wermad!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The reason being that since you're just running two cards there really isn't going to be much of a noticeable difference in your temps from going to a parallel as opposed to a serial configuration. As long as you have a good pump that is. It's once you start going to triple and quadruple GPU configuration will your loop configuration really make a difference. I'm sure someone will tell me if I'm wrong, but I think this is essentially the way it works.


This as well. I tested series vs parallel using four GTX 580 3GB and series had a very minute advantage but not enough to call it a decisive winner. Also, I found flow rate (just on visual observation in the inlet of the res) was considerably faster in series/serial. It was more relaxed in parallel yet it had no substantial impact on temps.

So, I do recommend series/serial for multi block setups to ease the restriction on the pump but there's *no* advantage in thermals tbh and its something to *not* take as gospel. In the end, it may come down to what bridge/link system you're using and aesthetics tbh. In other words, both provide you the same thermal performance, decide on what looks and does best for you.


----------



## fast_fate

I've been considering it for my 351 build.
Never been a big fan of it - but for this build it might tie a theme to the name.
I think of hot rods & muscle cars when I see braided sleeve over hoses.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I've been considering it for my 351 build.
> Never been a big fan of it - but for this build it might tie a theme to the name.
> I think of hot rods & muscle cars when I see braided sleeve over hoses.


Check out LowFat's awesome builds:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/lowfats-big-lian-li

Supremely nice work in the sleeving he does.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> What sort of tubing is that? Anyone know where I can get my hands on it?


It's just regular black tubing with the following over them,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UHJC7G/

I have the slits facing the motherboard for a cleaner look.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> Upgraded my loop and though I'd post it. New Ek 770 block and followed your advice and got a extra 120 rad. Happy I did! It wasn't as though as I thought it would be cramming it in there. Next step will be to try out some glass side panels I think. Water cooling my GPU also got rid of a lot of dust intake along with lowering temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Also If you guys could help me gets some votes it would be awesome. http://www.asus.com/microsite/2013/MB/gold_rush_promotion/Build.aspx?p=79 You could win some motherboards too by voting. Thanks ahead of time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great dude! First black and gold build I have liked. You didn't over do the gold and it has a nice balance. Now all you need is some rigid acrylic tubing runs.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This as well. I tested series vs parallel using four GTX 580 3GB and series had a very minute advantage but not enough to call it a decisive winner. Also, I found flow rate (just on visual observation in the inlet of the res) was considerably faster in series/serial. It was more relaxed in parallel yet it had no substantial impact on temps.
> 
> So, I do recommend series/serial for multi block setups to ease the restriction on the pump but there's *no* advantage in thermals tbh and its something to *not* take as gospel. In the end, it may come down to what bridge/link system you're using and aesthetics tbh. In other words, both provide you the same thermal performance, decide on what looks and does best for you.


Isn't the point of parallel to reduce resistance? Wouldn't flow rate be faster in parallel. Also wouldn't parallel be what eases restriction on the pump?
Its confusing because what you've said here seems to be the opposite of everything I've read.

Also remember for quad gpu there is always the option of running partial parallel. You connect the top 2 and bottom 2 card in parallel and then connect the two sets of cards in series. Ek has some terminals which I believe work this way called Semi Parallel.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, I do recommend series/serial for multi block setups to ease the restriction on the pump but there's *no* advantage in thermals tbh


no. parallel is less restrictive and the advantages of temps is both cards usually run the same temp not the 3-5* difference.

- Hydraulic performance: contrarily to popular belief, setting up 2 restrictive blocks in parallel is a vastly superior solution to setting up in series; in theory (i.e. without acounting for fittings) fluid mechanics show that the pressure drop of 2 of the same blocks setup in parallel is 1/4th that of a single water-block. By contrast, the pressure drop of 2 blocks in series is twice that a single block; it follows that the pressure drop of 2 blocks in parallel is 1/8th that of 2 blocks in series. In practice though and when accounting for fittings, the pressure drop of 2 blocks in parallel will fall to approximately 1/4th of 2 blocks setup in series.

-Thermal performance of water blocks in parallel vs. series was also demonstrated in this white paper.
http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_Papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf


----------



## RickRockerr

Temp monitoring after long time







This is after 4 days of playing BF4 and Ghosts. Don't mind about coretemp's voltage reading, it have been faulty after bios update (real voltage is 1.06V when idling) And some bug with gpu power target max









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Im going to buy 30mm 280 rad for top of the case and move my 45mm 280 rad to front with fan shrouds.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone tell me which loop makes more sense? I don't think I need the left 90 deg fitting on the south bridge so ignore that.


Anyone help me?


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Anyone help me?


They both look like they would work fine but I like the blue one better


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> They both look like they would work fine but I like the blue one better


I like thw blue one better as well. Do I need to flip the CPU block around so that the in port is on the right side?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Isn't the point of parallel to reduce resistance? Wouldn't flow rate be faster in parallel. Also wouldn't parallel be what eases restriction on the pump?
> Its confusing because what you've said here seems to be the opposite of everything I've read.
> 
> Also remember for quad gpu there is always the option of running partial parallel. You connect the top 2 and bottom 2 card in parallel and then connect the two sets of cards in series. Ek has some terminals which I believe work this way called Semi Parallel.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no. parallel is less restrictive and the advantages of temps is both cards usually run the same temp not the 3-5* difference.
> 
> - Hydraulic performance: contrarily to popular belief, setting up 2 restrictive blocks in parallel is a vastly superior solution to setting up in series; in theory (i.e. without acounting for fittings) fluid mechanics show that the pressure drop of 2 of the same blocks setup in parallel is 1/4th that of a single water-block. By contrast, the pressure drop of 2 blocks in series is twice that a single block; it follows that the pressure drop of 2 blocks in parallel is 1/8th that of 2 blocks in series. In practice though and when accounting for fittings, the pressure drop of 2 blocks in parallel will fall to approximately 1/4th of 2 blocks setup in series.
> 
> -Thermal performance of water blocks in parallel vs. series was also demonstrated in this white paper.
> http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_Papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf
Click to expand...

I should have worded it a bit different: "resistance on the pump". I'm referring to the work load seems easier on the pump in series vs parallel. The flowrate was considerably slower in parallel which tells me the path is meeting a lot of resistance due to the directions the water takes. In series, the water was entering the res so quickly, it blew me away on how different they were. So, can anyone clear this up for me? Why is flow faster exiting the loop (ie entering the res) in series as opposed to parallel? I did observe it in both 4 and 3 -way 580s.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Maybe there was something wrong with your parallel setup. Because with the same blocks and pump there should be an increase in flow rate when going from series to parallel on the GPU's no matter what.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I should have worded it a bit different: "resistance on the pump". I'm referring to the work load seems easier on the pump in series vs parallel. The flowrate was considerably slower in parallel which tells me the path is meeting a lot of resistance due to the directions the water takes. In series, the water was entering the res so quickly, it blew me away on how different they were. So, can anyone clear this up for me? Why is flow faster exiting the loop (ie entering the res) in series as opposed to parallel? I did observe it in both 4 and 3 -way 580s.


This was an informative link for me in the past. It helped get my mind around the different theories.

http://dragonsgaming.wordpress.com/2011/04/06/water-cooling-video-cards/


----------



## poissuu

Here's my rig, sorry i dont have a full photo, its nothing too much, still need to get uv tubing, and when gpu is upgraded I will cool that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Tried parallel,3c worse temps on the GPU for no flow increase to th rest of the loop,3 Watercool GTX 680 blocks-MIPS mobo and VRM blocks and 2 Watercool HK3 CPU blocks.

Serial was far and away the best for me.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Anyone help me?


I would flip the front rad so the ports are on top. It'll make bleeding the air out so much easier.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I like thw blue one better as well. Do I need to flip the CPU block around so that the in port is on the right side?


Ya you should probably have the CPU block oriented so the in port is on the correct side


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I would flip the front rad so the ports are on top. It'll make bleeding the air out so much easier.


Really? Im going to have to think about this some more. I thought I would be fine with it down.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Really? Im going to have to think about this some more. I thought I would be fine with it down.


You can have the southbridge to rad, rad to Res/pump then pump to mosfet.


----------



## morencyam

It'll work the way you have it in the picture, it'll just take much longer to get all the air out since it will get trapped in the top of the rad. Tilting the case around helps a little though.


----------



## zapery

My new rig! Tomorrow i'v got to fix the Horrific Pump Mounting!


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Namron has done some block testing...EK has done well....My HK3's not so much.


I wish the Koolance 380 had been in the mix. Ive heard its a top performer and thus is in my system


----------



## VSG

So far I have a Koolance CPU block, EK GPU blocks w/backplates, an XSPC rad, an alphacool rad, a swiftech pump and a frozenq reservoir. I might get a hardwarelabs rad to even out the love.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So far I have a Koolance CPU block, EK GPU blocks w/backplates, an XSPC rad, an alphacool rad, a swiftech pump and a frozenq reservoir. I might get a hardwarelabs rad to even out the love.


Spread it round, lol


----------



## lowfat

Monsoon acrylic sleeves. Rather ricey IMO.


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone know the difference between BP-CPF-CC5 and BP-CPF-CC5V2? These are Bitspower compression fittings.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Monsoon acrylic sleeves. Rather ricey IMO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Monsoon acrylic sleeves. Rather ricey IMO.


Geno been on the sauce?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Wow. Those are horrible.


----------



## cyphon

With all the good release ideas coming from Monsoon, they go and do something like that....................

Losing all faith......

EDIT:
ugh, the snake skin one has to be the worse....wth monsoon?


----------



## lowfat

There will also be a bamboo which isn't pictured.


----------



## wermad

Weren't they the ones that gave us those carbon-fiber compression fittings (faux)?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Weren't they the ones that gave us those carbon-fiber compression fittings (faux)?


Well kinda. Monsoon released the Compression Fittings with the little "Windows" to see your tubing. Then ModMyToys (PerformancePCs) released CF versions of them. So it was a collabo

I don't think those acrylic sleeves look bad. I think if you did your whole loop with em it would look pretty tacky. But maybe as accents it wouldn't be bad. Like instead of using dual loops with different color coolant, add those on a cpl runs. Not really feelin the Snakeskin or Pokadots though LOLLLLLLL


----------



## poissuu

If there is something different, it probably doent matter.


----------



## Gaupz

Quick question guys, probably been asked a million times but should I run a biocide in my loop? I'm using nickel plated blocks so I don't want to run a silver kill coil(to keep my warranty with EK)

I was just looking at two products on dazmode.com.

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/feser_base_-_corrosion_blocker_biocide/

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/


----------



## VSG

Are you looking for just a biocide or a combo biocide/anticorrosion agent?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gaupz*
> 
> Quick question guys, probably been asked a million times but should I run a biocide in my loop? I'm using nickel plated blocks so I don't want to run a silver kill coil(to keep my warranty with EK)
> 
> I was just looking at two products on dazmode.com.
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/feser_base_-_corrosion_blocker_biocide/
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/


If you are/were just running distilled + silver kill coil, your warranty is intact. Apologies if this was unclear in the past.


----------



## Gaupz

Yeah I'm planning on running distilled water. Just trying to decide on what to pick up to prevent problems in the future. This will be the first build I do with watercooling so just unclear on what I need here.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you are/were just running distilled + silver kill coil, your warranty is intact. Apologies if this was unclear in the past.


I was told that biocide is better when running nickel plated blocks. Is that wrong?


----------



## VSG

Well some companies *cough koolance cough* mention they won't honor warranty if silver is in the same loop as nickel.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you are/were just running distilled + silver kill coil, your warranty is intact. Apologies if this was unclear in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> I was told that biocide is better when running nickel plated blocks. Is that wrong?
Click to expand...

Our best recommendation is to use EK-EKoolant's with our products


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I was told that biocide is better when running nickel plated blocks. Is that wrong?


There can be mixed metal issues with nickel and silver so this is the grounds for what you have heard. Some people have had terrible problems with it and others have had none. I like to be safe however


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Back again with another question,currently running 4 intake fans (2 front 2 bottom) and 4 exhaust (3 top 1 rear) i was wondering if i use the rear fan to intake would i see difference in temps (be it marginal or not) or that would only be good for positive pressure inside the case....


----------



## _Killswitch_

Question about fan's for rad's.

Gentle Typhoon's
Corsair SP120's
or
Noiseblocker Eloop's

which will be best for 480 rad probably a Aquacomputer AMS


----------



## Anoxy

Gotta say, I'm a little bummed I ordered my Gentle Typhoons from FrozenCPU after seeing that performance-pcs sleeves them for free


----------



## Oliver1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Monsoon acrylic sleeves. Rather ricey IMO.


That looks amazing!!!!


----------



## Anoxy

Those seem kinda tacky. Like wallpaper.


----------



## Maximus Knight

racy, i like.


----------



## ginger_nuts

IMO the ones with the stitch pattern (4 and 6 from the top) and hex patterns (2 and 3 from the top) look great.

Especially in blue n green.

Others a bit "How you going" kinda thing.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Does anyone know the difference between BP-CPF-CC5 and BP-CPF-CC5V2? These are Bitspower compression fittings.




left CC5 right CC5V2


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Question about fan's for rad's.
> 
> Gentle Typhoon's
> Corsair SP120's
> or
> Noiseblocker Eloop's
> 
> which will be best for 480 rad probably a Aquacomputer AMS


I'm really impressed with gentle typhoons. I wish they came in 140mm. I have a pair of 120's on a U60 and I don't even hear them at full speed, 1850rpm. My case fans at 800 rpm drown out their noise and they are near silent too.

I have sp120's. They are loud t full speed. 7v is good.

Never owned noise blockers


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Gotta say, I'm a little bummed I ordered my Gentle Typhoons from FrozenCPU after seeing that performance-pcs sleeves them for free


I did the same thing but I gotta say my sleeving looks better


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I'm really impressed with gentle typhoons. I wish they came in 140mm. I have a pair of 120's on a U60 and I don't even hear them at full speed, 1850rpm. My case fans at 800 rpm drown out their noise and they are near silent too.
> 
> I have sp120's. They are loud t full speed. 7v is good.
> 
> Never owned noise blockers


maybe its just me but my ap-15's make quite some noise at 1850 rpm


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I have 6 AP-15 fans, ran all 6 at 12v and all of them at once was still quieter then the stock coolermaster fan on my hyper 212 evo









Run them at 5v is near dead silent









Should also note mine arnt running on rads yet just as case fans


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> maybe its just me but my ap-15's make quite some noise at 1850 rpm


They do make some annoying hum noise, the corsair one made better hum
but I still love my AP - 15, run it on 7v


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> They do make some annoying hum noise, the corsair one made better hum
> but I still love my AP - 15, run it on 7v


Everyone is saying AP-15's are so great *but* they make a noise sometimes or at a certain voltage.

I could not justify spending $20AUD on fans with the chance of being annoyed at them.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Everyone is saying AP-15's are so great *but* they make a noise sometimes or at a certain voltage.
> 
> I could not justify spending $20AUD on fans with the chance of being annoyed at them.


Better option IMO is noctua
unless you wanna sacrifice on color


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you are/were just running distilled + silver kill coil, your warranty is intact. Apologies if this was unclear in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> I was told that biocide is better when running nickel plated blocks. Is that wrong?
Click to expand...

Silver is fine in a nickel loop as long as plating is undamaged/pinholed,If you buy a nickel block from any manufacturer then inspect the plating carefully before install. Any defects or damage on the waterside should indicate that silver shouldn't be used with that particular block and you should consider biocide instead.
Any exposed substrate copper becomes an entry point for any possible damage,a galvanic cell is formed with the silver and the copper starts to corrode away,leaving the nickel with nothing to grip to.

Basically,if you are confident in your chosen product then use silver,if you have doubts or can see imperfections then use biocide.

EDIT: New members,please spoiler your quoted pics,leave one visible but spoiler the rest.
Thanks.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Better option IMO is noctua
> unless you wanna sacrifice on color


Noctuas are $29 in aus....


----------



## jdk90

So everyone, I'm in need of some assistance, as usual..








I need help in choosing a 420 radiator, something that is both quality and good performance, not really stuck to a budget & my loop will be a mostly EK build.
Second question, I have no idea what thermal compound to choose for my CPU, it's a delided 3770K using a EK naked ivy kit with an EK supremacy block, any help would be greatly appreciated guys


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> So everyone, I'm in need of some assistance, as usual..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need help in choosing a 420 radiator, something that is both quality and good performance, not really stuck to a budget & my loop will be a mostly EK build.
> Second question, I have no idea what thermal compound to choose for my CPU, it's a delided 3770K using a EK naked ivy kit with an EK supremacy block, any help would be greatly appreciated guys


I recently went with Phobya's Liquid Metal "compound".

It works ridiculously well, but has a very strange consistency/behavior compared to normal thermal pastes. I personally think it's only slightly denser than water, so you need VERY little when mounting a waterblock to it. Just make sure it's spread around very evenly. I like to use a cut credit card as a spreader tool myself. Hope that helps.


----------



## Trolle BE

my cpu is avg at 60 degress with my fans at 1000rpm(4.2ghz at stock volts)
not to happy with those temps hehe


----------



## ozzy1925

hello, first time builde here.for corsair 900d .I made a list from ppc and planing to add mayhem pastel ice white concentrate but my blocks will be nickel plated is that a problem?Also not sure which fan to get ap 15 or noiseblocker b12-p(800-200rpm) for2xut60 480m?

here is my list.

any help is appreciated.


----------



## Gleniu

My first attempts at digital SLR photography







I'm using daylight now, but I need to invest in some basic indoor lighting - it is getting colder where I live.

Anodized alu rad screws (still water-cooling parts, right?







)




Bitspower D-plug


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> My first attempts at digital SLR photography
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using daylight now, but I need to invest in some basic indoor lighting - it is getting colder where I live.
> 
> Anodized alu rad screws (still water-cooling parts, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower D-plug


Very nice!
And yes the rad screws are water cooling parts, I had to wait a week to get some 30mm long screws from EBay. Without them no push/pull.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Very nice!
> And yes the rad screws are water cooling parts, I had to wait a week to get some 30mm long screws from EBay. Without them no push/pull.


Thank you







It took about 2 hours of shooting, ~50 photos + 1 hour of editing - just learning how the stuff works


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took about 2 hours of shooting, ~50 photos + 1 hour of editing - just learning how the stuff works


I use a point and shoot(canon), so when I see some of the pictures on OCN I can't help but think I am a slacker!
Now I can add you to list of people who make my pics look sad.









Honestly though you seen to be off to great start!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> 
> 
> left CC5 right CC5V2


Hey, thanks for your response! I wonder why it has been changed. Everyone sells the shiny silver in version1 and the new colors in version2. I happened to get a bunch of shiny silver version2 from ebay but now I cant get more to match. Only place I see that has silver shiny version2 is Bitspower website. Any preference over the other?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> My first attempts at digital SLR photography
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using daylight now, but I need to invest in some basic indoor lighting - it is getting colder where I live.
> 
> Anodized alu rad screws (still water-cooling parts, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Bitspower D-plug


You don't need lighting IMO to photograph computer equipement. Just south facing (or whatever direction faces the sun) windows w/ blinds covering them. Preferably Venetian blinds where you can control the amount of light coming in. Lighting is generally more useful for objects that are in motion. With computers you can just use a tripod and a longer exposure.

Always use manual focus. Use the LCD in zoom to ensure it is 100% in focus. Play w/ reflections. Don't be afraid to move the camera and objects around.

Few examples since I love to spam pics.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/SupremeHF.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/backplate3.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-10.jpg.html

Since this is a watercooling thread and not the photography thread. May I suggest posting here if you want to discuss things more.








http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig/0_20


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for that link lowfat. I've recently been trying to figure out how to take decent pics for my build log.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Gotta say, I'm a little bummed I ordered my Gentle Typhoons from FrozenCPU after seeing that performance-pcs sleeves them for free


Don't worry too much. I ordered a couple from both places and the ones from ppcs while sleeved had a really crappy header on it. They fell out of the mating connectors constantly. In the end I had to tape the leads together so they wouldn't fall out if I touched my case. Ran out of fan headers and didn't want to order just a couple headers to replace them lol.

I just sleeve the frozencpu ones myself and it is all good


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> My first attempts at digital SLR photography
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using daylight now, but I need to invest in some basic indoor lighting - it is getting colder where I live.
> 
> Anodized alu rad screws (still water-cooling parts, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Did you get those done yourself, or does a company offer them? That's a nice selection of colours!


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> So everyone, I'm in need of some assistance, as usual..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need help in choosing a 420 radiator, something that is both quality and good performance, not really stuck to a budget & my loop will be a mostly EK build.
> Second question, I have no idea what thermal compound to choose for my CPU, it's a delided 3770K using a EK naked ivy kit with an EK supremacy block, any help would be greatly appreciated guys


To answer your second question, I'm using the Coollaboratory Liquid Pro both on the die and the water block. It gives me a really good temp drop, IIRC 20C drop.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> My first attempts at digital SLR photography
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using daylight now, but I need to invest in some basic indoor lighting - it is getting colder where I live.
> 
> Anodized alu rad screws (still water-cooling parts, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower D-plug


Very nice pictures.







I recommend you to get a tripod first if you don't have one.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Did you get those done yourself, or does a company offer them? That's a nice selection of colours!


http://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Very nice pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend you to get a tripod first if you don't have one.


Thank you. Yes, I'm using tripod - it's a must









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You don't need lighting IMO to photograph computer equipement. Just south facing (or whatever direction faces the sun) windows w/ blinds covering them. Preferably Venetian blinds where you can control the amount of light coming in. Lighting is generally more useful for objects that are in motion. With computers you can just use a tripod and a longer exposure.
> Always use manual focus. Use the LCD in zoom to ensure it is 100% in focus. Play w/ reflections. Don't be afraid to move the camera and objects around.


Thanks lowfat for the tips. I have time for my PC hobby mostly in the evenings or at night, so I think I will get myself a lighting set. I also want to be independent of external conditions


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Hey, thanks for your response! I wonder why it has been changed. Everyone sells the shiny silver in version1 and the new colors in version2. I happened to get a bunch of shiny silver version2 from ebay but now I cant get more to match. Only place I see that has silver shiny version2 is Bitspower website. Any preference over the other?


Maybe to save some material while charging the same price







. Personally i prefer the version 1, in particular with hard tubing, for example tygon 3400, the extra collar on the top is useful.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> http://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium.html


Quite interesting, they're even reasonably priced!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Very nice!
> And yes the rad screws are water cooling parts, I had to wait a week to get some 30mm long screws from EBay. Without them no push/pull.


Oh nooo, you just made me realize I don't think I have the screws necessary to even mount the rads in my case! I guess I just assumed that these parts wold come with the necessary hardware :


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Oh nooo, you just made me realize I don't think I have the screws necessary to even mount the rads in my case! I guess I just assumed that these parts wold come with the necessary hardware :


My Alphacool rads came with screws, but I replaced them with black ones anyway.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm*
Extent of delivery:
1x Radiator
8x Copper-plated M3x30mm hexagon socket screw
8x Copper-plated M3x35mm hexagon socket screw


----------



## wermad

Ebay and mcmastercarr.com are the best places to shop for different screws (sizes, head type, lengths, etc.). Though, they offer a few colors, black and ss are the cheaper bundles. You can get a 100 pack for ~$7-10.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> My Alphacool rads came with screws, but I replaced them with black ones anyway.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm*
> Extent of delivery:
> 1x Radiator
> 8x Copper-plated M3x30mm hexagon socket screw
> 8x Copper-plated M3x35mm hexagon socket screw


Yes, I have those, but aren't those just for mounting fans to the radiator? I'm going push/pull on all of my radiators so I'm not sure which screws I need to mount it to my case.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yes, I have those, but aren't those just for mounting fans to the radiator? I'm going push/pull on all of my radiators so I'm not sure which screws I need to mount it to my case.


With push-pull you use the same screws to mount both fans to radiator and fans to the case








screw-->case-->fan-->rad-->fan-->screw


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








So you will need 16 30mm screws for push-pull on 240 with standard setup (25mm fans).


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> any one have flow charts for the Koolance QD3?


I had 5 pairs of them on my rig paired with a D5 and had no issues with flow rates. I moved to acrylic so now they are sitting in my spare parts box.


----------



## lowfat

The QD3s are great w/ the exception of the black ones. They are terrible. Half of the exterior of mine faded to a dark brown, the other half remained black. The interior all the paint turned blue and has started flaking off. All with less than 2 months of use. The silver ones I had in the same loop were perfectly fine. As are the 3 sets of silver I had in my other machine.


----------



## bundymania

First Rads from Bitspower









X...


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> First Rads from Bitspower
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X...


Very nice, except for the big logo


----------



## bundymania

It´s just a sticker...easy to remove the bugger


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> It´s just a sticker...easy to remove the bugger


yeah.. but unless I don't see it right, it's not a flat surface, so it will have to be replaced with something or it will look weird. Bad decision IMHO.


----------



## brandon6199

What are some of the best options for a transparent red tubing/coolant combo?

Mayhems Pastel Red is opaque AFAIK, and I would prefer something that's a transparent red instead.

Should I go for red tubing? Or red dye/coolant? Or both? And if so, which tubing is recommended? If possible, I prefer the actual coolant/distilled water to be colored red as well as long as I won't have issues elsewhere... (I will be using acrylic blocks)

Hoope this makes sense.

Does anyone have any experience with Mayhems Dye?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17674/ex-liq-264/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Red.html


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> What are some of the best options for a transparent red tubing/coolant combo?
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Red is opaque AFAIK, and I would prefer something that's a transparent red instead.


Had X1 form mayhems and Aquacomputer DP. Prefer DP, X1 stained by GPU block after a month of using

DP looks like this


----------



## SeeThruHead

Mayhems makes dye that you can add to distilled water. Make sure you're using and anti corrosive like silver or ptnuke. They also make red x1 coolant which is transparent. EK make a good red coolant as well. If you want to go tubing the best I've seen (check my build log in my sig) is Primochill advanced LRT bloodshed red. I'm switching to clear tubes and mayhems dye myself.


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Looks great dude! First black and gold build I have liked. You didn't over do the gold and it has a nice balance. Now all you need is some rigid acrylic tubing runs.


Yeah man some black rigid tubing along with black res would be perfect! Thanks


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Had X1 form mayhems and Aquacomputer DP. Prefer DP, X1 stained by GPU block after a month of using
> 
> DP looks like this


That is EXACTLY the type of red that I want! Thank you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Mayhems makes dye that you can add to distilled water. Make sure you're using and anti corrosive like silver or ptnuke. They also make red x1 coolant which is transparent. EK make a good red coolant as well. If you want to go tubing the best I've seen (check my build log in my sig) is Primochill advanced LRT bloodshed red. I'm switching to clear tubes and mayhems dye myself.


Right, but my question is, since I'm looking to use red colored coolant, shouldn't I be using clear tubing instead? I'm going to have acrylic blocks in my loop and want to actually see the red flowing through the blocks.

Would distilled water + mayhems red dye + Primochill advanced LRT clear tubing be a good red combo?

or

distilled water + red mayhems dye + Primochill advanced LRT bloodshed red tubing?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Would distilled water + mayhems red dye + Primochill advanced LRT clear tubing be a good red combo?


That's exactly what I've just ordered. Though I added some blue dye since I want to get a little closer to that nice blood red. I've use a lot of Primochill advanced LRT and IMO its the best tubing around. Never tried any dyes before but mayhems seems to be a favorite.

The aquacomputer DP also looks like a great option.

The bloodshed red tubing is great if you dont want to use dye. But since you've got acrylic blocks you're going to want the colored fluid.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Had X1 form mayhems and Aquacomputer DP. Prefer DP, X1 stained by GPU block after a month of using
> 
> DP looks like this


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Mayhems makes dye that you can add to distilled water. Make sure you're using and anti corrosive like silver or ptnuke. They also make red x1 coolant which is transparent. EK make a good red coolant as well. If you want to go tubing the best I've seen (check my build log in my sig) is Primochill advanced LRT bloodshed red. I'm switching to clear tubes and mayhems dye myself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> That's exactly what I've just ordered. Though I added some blue dye since I want to get a little closer to that nice blood red. I've use a lot of Primochill advanced LRT and IMO its the best tubing around. Never tried any dyes before but mayhems seems to be a favorite.
> 
> The aquacomputer DP also looks like a great option.
> 
> The bloodshed red tubing is great if you dont want to use dye. But since you've got acrylic blocks you're going to want the colored fluid.


Cool. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

So guys I'm planning to build a new system in the phantek case, and i was wondering is there a reason why people dont make custom cables for their fans? I mean besides the time it takes to do all the soldering etc, any drawbacks to do something like this?


Then for my next question, Fan selection for rads, static pressure and such.

I know that the fans pushing should have as much static pressure as possible, what about the fans pulling (if one is going to go push / pull) shouldn't these fans have less static pressure and better capability to suck air through the rad shrouds/case ventilation? because of most of the builds ive seen here, people use the same type of fans on both sides, couldn't this maybe *maybe* increase performance?


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> First Rads from Bitspower
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X...


Any idea when these will be available for purchase?


----------



## lowfat

There are no drawbacks to making the daisy chained fan cable. But they are a lot of work, especially if you are sleeving them.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> So guys I'm planning to build a new system in the phantek case, and i was wondering is there a reason why people dont make custom cables for their fans? I mean besides the time it takes to do all the soldering etc, any drawbacks to do something like this?
> 
> 
> Then for my next question, Fan selection for rads, static pressure and such.
> 
> I know that the fans pushing should have as much static pressure as possible, what about the fans pulling (if one is going to go push / pull) shouldn't these fans have less static pressure and better capability to suck air through the rad shrouds/case ventilation? because of most of the builds ive seen here, people use the same type of fans on both sides, couldn't this maybe *maybe* increase performance?


I would think that static pressure is directly related to how capable the fan is at sucking air out as well as pushing it in. We use high static pressure because of how hard it is to get air through the fins compared to a normal cases fan whole. And I believe static pressure need equally applicable to push, pull and push/pull.

As for fan linking. Some people do solder their fans together. I know I did at least. It does take some extra work, and again more extra work if you want to use them in a different configuration down the line. But it makes for clean cable routing.


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys,

I'm looking to place an order today for the WC parts for my sig rig (see below). I will be cooling an i7-4770k and 2 x GTX 780 Ti's.

Seeing as EK hasn't released the full-cover waterblocks for the reference GTX 780 Ti, I'm going to order all of the parts except these GPU blocks and the EK-FC bridge just so that I can have ample time to piece together the loop in my build and get familiar with all of the parts, etc. before I order the GTX 780 Ti waterblocks.

I have a Corsair 750D. These are the parts I'm looking to order today.

*GPU Blocks:* _*Waiting for EK to release reference GTX 780 Ti full-cover blocks*_
*CPU Block:* EK Supremacy Universal CPU Block - Clean Plexi - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1912
*Pump/Res:* XSPC Photon 170 Tube Glass Cylinder Reservoir / Pump Combo - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21480/ex-pmp-263/XSPC_Photon_170_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_D5_Vario.html
*360mm radiator:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14857/ex-rad-333/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Triple_120mm_Radiator.html
*280mm radiator:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16825/ex-rad-426/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html
*Tubing:* PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 1/2"ID x 3/4" OD - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17585/ex-tub-1577/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_12ID_x_34_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXA10-34.html?tl=g30c99s1614
*Compression Fittings:* Bitspower G1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10037/ex-tub-606/Bitspower_G14_Thread_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1609
*Coolant:* Alphacool Ultra Pure Water - 1000mL - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14874/ex-liq-202/Alphacool_Ultra_Pure_Water_-_1000mL.html
Thoughts? Also, I'm looking for quality fans for this build as well. Preferably with red LED's, nothing cheap though. If I can't get a decent quality fan with an LED then it's not a huge deal. I don't want any cheap LED fans for my rads.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> So guys I'm planning to build a new system in the phantek case, and i was wondering is there a reason why people dont make custom cables for their fans? I mean besides the time it takes to do all the soldering etc, any drawbacks to do something like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then for my next question, Fan selection for rads, static pressure and such.
> 
> I know that the fans pushing should have as much static pressure as possible, what about the fans pulling (if one is going to go push / pull) shouldn't these fans have less static pressure and better capability to suck air through the rad shrouds/case ventilation? because of most of the builds ive seen here, people use the same type of fans on both sides, couldn't this maybe *maybe* increase performance?


1)As has been mentioned there is no reason not to solder your fans together. Consider though that once done you will have a lot more work to do to use those fans for anything else and selling them in the future will be near impossible. IMO make a custom extension and plug all fans into that and hide the extra wires.
2)You want high SP on both sides simple as that.

Also enjoy that case, I have one right now and it's great. Heavy though.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> So guys I'm planning to build a new system in the phantek case, and i was wondering is there a reason why people dont make custom cables for their fans? I mean besides the time it takes to do all the soldering etc, any drawbacks to do something like this?
> 
> 
> Then for my next question, Fan selection for rads, static pressure and such.
> 
> I know that the fans pushing should have as much static pressure as possible, what about the fans pulling (if one is going to go push / pull) shouldn't these fans have less static pressure and better capability to suck air through the rad shrouds/case ventilation? because of most of the builds ive seen here, people use the same type of fans on both sides, couldn't this maybe *maybe* increase performance?


Why make the daisy chain cable? XSPC Quad 120mm Fan Cable and GELID PWM 1-to-4 Splitter Cable would take care of most situations I thought, and the price is cheap as.

Going push / pull the fans should be of the same make and model, running at the same speed for optimum setup and no worries about over or under working the others.


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Why make the daisy chain cable? XSPC Quad 120mm Fan Cable and GELID PWM 1-to-4 Splitter Cable would take care of most situations I thought, and the price is cheap as.


Well, MY opinion is that the daisy chain for the fans will look a lot better then having all the cables from all the fans and the adapters taking up space and looking ugly.

Now time for another question.

Which fan has the most static pressure, etc? I see a lot of people running corsair SP, how do they compare to noctua NF-F12 PWM? or is there another brand that is way better?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> Well, MY opinion is that the daisy chain for the fans will look a lot better then having all the cables from all the fans and the adapters taking up space and looking ugly.
> 
> Now time for another question.
> 
> Which fan has the most static pressure, etc? I see a lot of people running corsair SP, how do they compare to noctua NF-F12 PWM? or is there another brand that is way better?


Will you be running PWM from the MB or through a controller or static voltage from the PSU ?

Personally the Noctua's seem to have no negative feed back, but then again paying approx. $20+ on fans I wouldn't want to have any.


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Will you be running PWM from the MB or through a controller or static voltage from the PSU ?
> 
> Personally the Noctua's seem to have no negative feed back, but then again paying approx. $20+ on fans I wouldn't want to have any.


AFAIK there is a little 'fan hub' on the phantek that is powered by a molex, that you can connect to your MB through PWM. But getting a fancontroller isn't really a problem. I've been looking at the aquacomputer fancontroller too. If my first plan fails.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Any idea when these will be available for purchase?


I guess in 3-4 weeks, maybe earlier


----------



## jdk90

Guys? Any recommendations on a good 420 rad?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Guys? Any recommendations on a good 420 rad?


Honestly, you can't go wrong with radiators, but most people here seem to like Alphacool rads.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Why make the daisy chain cable? XSPC Quad 120mm Fan Cable and GELID PWM 1-to-4 Splitter Cable would take care of most situations I thought, and the price is cheap as.
> .


Because that looks ugly.









Here is how I do my fans. I cut the fan cables off 2 cm below the edge of the fan. Crimp on a new connector. Then I make a clean daily changed extension cable. That way I can easily replace a fan if it ever dies.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/export-23.jpg.html


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> AFAIK there is a little 'fan hub' on the phantek that is powered by a molex, that you can connect to your MB through PWM. But getting a fancontroller isn't really a problem. I've been looking at the aquacomputer fancontroller too. If my first plan fails.


I have never seen a negative comment about Noctua's, I would probably get some if it wasn't the fact they cost $30AUD each









Tator tot ( a respected member on here) suggested to me the Gelid PWM silent fans for quiet and affordable push / pull setup on my future Monsta rad. They are less then $10AUD each









Being a fan hub, chances are then it draws it power from the molex and sends the PWM signal to the fans. IMO PWM is a great method for control, as your MB will increase the fans as needed. If not mistaken the aquacomputer controller runs a synthetic PWM signal which if I remember correctly some fans have problems with, I think









@ Lowfat
Dam that looks neat







I just can't be stuffed going to that effort. I would rather spend a couple of dollars to just buy one.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> First Rads from Bitspower
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X...


Look pretty nice. Will we get a bundy review?


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Look pretty nice. Will we get a bundy review?


Yep, i wanna include those rads in my previous reviews / roundups


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm looking to place an order today for the WC parts for my sig rig (see below). I will be cooling an i7-4770k and 2 x GTX 780 Ti's.
> 
> Seeing as EK hasn't released the full-cover waterblocks for the reference GTX 780 Ti, I'm going to order all of the parts except these GPU blocks and the EK-FC bridge just so that I can have ample time to piece together the loop in my build and get familiar with all of the parts, etc. before I order the GTX 780 Ti waterblocks.
> 
> I have a Corsair 750D. These are the parts I'm looking to order today.
> 
> *GPU Blocks:* _*Waiting for EK to release reference GTX 780 Ti full-cover blocks*_
> *CPU Block:* EK Supremacy Universal CPU Block - Clean Plexi - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1912
> *Pump/Res:* XSPC Photon 170 Tube Glass Cylinder Reservoir / Pump Combo - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21480/ex-pmp-263/XSPC_Photon_170_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_D5_Vario.html
> *360mm radiator:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14857/ex-rad-333/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Triple_120mm_Radiator.html
> *280mm radiator:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16825/ex-rad-426/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html
> *Tubing:* PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 1/2"ID x 3/4" OD - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17585/ex-tub-1577/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_12ID_x_34_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXA10-34.html?tl=g30c99s1614
> *Compression Fittings:* Bitspower G1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10037/ex-tub-606/Bitspower_G14_Thread_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1609
> *Coolant:* Alphacool Ultra Pure Water - 1000mL - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14874/ex-liq-202/Alphacool_Ultra_Pure_Water_-_1000mL.html
> Thoughts? Also, I'm looking for quality fans for this build as well. Preferably with red LED's, nothing cheap though. If I can't get a decent quality fan with an LED then it's not a huge deal. I don't want any cheap LED fans for my rads.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


So everything looks good?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Shot I took last night for my "Narada" build log



really happy with how it's coming along


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Why make the daisy chain cable? XSPC Quad 120mm Fan Cable and GELID PWM 1-to-4 Splitter Cable would take care of most situations I thought, and the price is cheap as.
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Because that looks ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how I do my fans. I cut the fan cables off 2 cm below the edge of the fan. Crimp on a new connector. Then I make a clean daily changed extension cable. That way I can easily replace a fan if it ever dies.
Click to expand...

Uh oh low, one of your GT stickers aren't in the correct orientation! Better tear down your whole build and start over.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Uh oh low, one of your GT stickers aren't in the correct orientation! Better tear down your whole build and start over.


Don't worry I'll be rotating the bottom two stickers so they are the right direction before the finished product.


----------



## Anoxy

Yo, EK, get some more Titan SE backplates out to your retailers pronto!


----------



## jokrik

Yo EK, asus rive BE block, pronto...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yo, EK, get some more Titan SE backplates out to your retailers pronto!


Ask your retailers 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Yo EK, asus rive BE block, pronto...


Tell Asus to hurry up and release the board first.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ask your retailers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tell Asus to hurry up and release the board first.


They're out of stock at every retailer i've checked other than the EK website!

Since I'm here, I have a question that's probably been asked a zillion times, so sorry: if both my rads are in push/pull, does it matter if they are intake or exhaust? Should I treat it like my previous air set-up where all my fans were intake and then a rear case fan as exhaust?


----------



## derickwm

They order, we ship









Setup I used on the last few rigs I built for office use had the fans in the front of the case as intake and then the fans on top and on the back as exhaust. Or depnding on how crowded the top and back fans are, maybe make the fan on the back, an intake.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Because that looks ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how I do my fans. I cut the fan cables off 2 cm below the edge of the fan. Crimp on a new connector. Then I make a clean daily changed extension cable. That way I can easily replace a fan if it ever dies.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/export-23.jpg.html


Very innovative! I like what you're doing with this build. Did you use bungee cable sleeving for the acrylic tubing? Or do they actually sell some monster size sleeving somewhere?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Very innovative! I like what you're doing with this build. Did you use bungee cable sleeving for the acrylic tubing? Or do they actually sell some monster size sleeving somewhere?


Um, not sure what you are referring too.









In my Lian Li I first used sleeving over regular 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing. But then I moved to acrylic which is no longer sleeved.

Also the pic of the fans I posted was actually from my Stacker build, where I never sleeved any tubing. I used acrylic here as well.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Um, not sure what you are referring too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my Lian Li I first used sleeving over regular 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing. But then I moved to acrylic which is no longer sleeved.
> 
> Also the pic of the fans I posted was actually from my Stacker build, where I never sleeved any tubing. I used acrylic here as well.


Ooops! Okay, I got the builds mixed up.


----------



## davidelite10

Can anyone recommend me any good GTX 780 blocks? Thinking of putting my EVGA gtx 780s under water and get a new res/pump combo(d5 EK top) and a 240mm rad (EK) and some Tygon e 1000 tubing to top off the Red pastel coloring I'm going for.


----------



## LiquidHaus

heatkiller blocks > all other blocks.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> heatkiller blocks > all other blocks.


How do they look aesthetically?


----------



## jdk90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> How do they look aesthetically?


like sex.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> like sex.


I kind of like it, but I'm looking at the Bitspower clear full gtx 780 blocks and boy is it purty.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Tell Asus to hurry up and release the board first.


What?
I already have the board....
Its in my LOG if anyway keen to check it out

I thought you guys would always get the priority


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> How do they look aesthetically?


best looking blocks out there imo

example:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> like sex.


my point exactly.


----------



## doctakedooty

So question I keep getting cracked acrylic tubing leaking once every week or so didn't think my loop was big enough to build that much pressure but could the pressure be causing it and I need to order a pressure release valve?


----------



## szeged

testing out a new camera, decided to take a pic of some bitspower plug fittings to see if it could capture small details how i wanted

results from just ambient lighting nothing special done.




after i mess around with the settings ill try to submit better pics of my loop lol.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Those seem kinda tacky. Like wallpaper.


couldnt agree more. looks equivalent to someone putting flames on their car, ect..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> heatkiller blocks > all other blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> heatkiller blocks > all other blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> How do they look aesthetically?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> How do they look aesthetically?
> 
> 
> 
> like sex.
Click to expand...

These responses please me.


----------



## ginger_nuts

So what a day it has been. This morning I started out playing some Splinter Cell Black List. After another failed mission attempt, I smelt something strange, like coolant









I found a leak from my Alphacool Dual DC-LT res. Then panic stations kicks in, but all is good, I have a Alphacool D5 and XSPC Acrylic res just waiting.

Turns out the Alphacool res glue (silicone) that holds the two back plates together came apart, Then I find it happening on the side panels as well.



I also found bits stuck on one of the pumps, as well as through the rest of the res.

But my system looks better IMO now





I think in a week or two, I will order the 240 Monsta I really want, at which point I will have to pull apart all my blocks etc.

This water cooling thing is never ending.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> best looking blocks out there imo
> 
> example:
> my point exactly.


To each their own I suppose. But I like the look of ek blocks much more especially when comparing the acrylic ones


----------



## jdk90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> These responses please me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Roxycon

updated


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So what a day it has been. This morning I started out playing some Splinter Cell Black List. After another failed mission attempt, I smelt something strange, like coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found a leak from my Alphacool Dual DC-LT res. Then panic stations kicks in, but all is good, I have a Alphacool D5 and XSPC Acrylic res just waiting.
> 
> Turns out the Alphacool res glue (silicone) that holds the two back plates together came apart, Then I find it happening on the side panels as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I also found bits stuck on one of the pumps, as well as through the rest of the res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> But my system looks better IMO now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think in a week or two, I will order the 240 Monsta I really want, at which point I will have to pull apart all my blocks etc.
> 
> 
> This water cooling thing is never ending.


The moral of the story here is to never ever trust bonded or molded acrylic where you have regular expansion and contraction cycles, and be extremely vigilant when using bargain price point products.

Glad you escaped a disaster.

Darlene


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> updated


what about temperatures? gpu1, gpu2, cpu? under load?


----------



## Fonne

Alphacool XT45 - To 40mm fans









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21605/ex-rad-651/Alphacool_NexXxoS_XT45_Full_Copper_Dual_40mm_Radiator.html?id=pM3H8npT#blank


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> what about temperatures? gpu1, gpu2, cpu? under load?


haven't seen it go over 60 degree celsius on the cpu and the gpus is around the 45 degree mark.. acceptable temps since my DB meter hover around the 16-20 db about 30 cm away with the panel open, afraid to turn on the music just to not being sure if the fans and pumps are spinning or not


----------



## ASSSETS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> This was an informative link for me in the past. It helped get my mind around the different theories.
> 
> http://dragonsgaming.wordpress.com/2011/04/06/water-cooling-video-cards/


This is interesting.. with parallel mounting flow rate is faster than single card. Here everything is limited to block flow rate and probably maybe good way to compare different blocks. Another good thing is both cards receive cool water and cards have almost same temperature.
Also looks like investing in high GPM pump maybe worthless if you have one gpu as pump cannot push more than gpu block allow. What you think about it guys?


----------



## ASSSETS

@Roxycon Nice looking setup. We need temps.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASSSETS*
> 
> @Roxycon Nice looking setup. We need temps.


tnx









heaven for about 20 mins, ultra with aax4



guild wars 2, everything set to max



Fans (about 600 rpm @ idle, doesn't hit max rpm before 80 degrees celsius on the CPU or one of the GPU's) and pumps set to low noise

Ambient should be 20-25 degrees


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> To each their own I suppose. But I like the look of ek blocks much more especially when comparing the acrylic ones


Werd.

Polished EK FTW









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4269-3.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-10-3.jpg.html


----------



## Fonne

Looks really nice when polished - Nice job


----------



## LiquidHaus

You say EK is better when comparing acrylic yet none of the heatkiller blocks are acrylic.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> You say EK is better when comparing acrylic yet none of the heatkiller blocks are acrylic.


Which is the problem. Acrylic > *.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Which is the problem. Acrylic > *.


Heresy!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Heresy!


I read that as Hershey and wondered why you were talking about chocolate.

@Roxycon, think you have enough hard drives in there? Loop looks good though. The symmetry pleases me. The one black fan hurts my ocd though

@lowfat, I need to clean a pool of drool off my desk eveytime I see any of your builds. Such attention to detail


----------



## Maximus Knight

WOW dat clarity of polishing..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> You say EK is better when comparing acrylic yet none of the heatkiller blocks are acrylic.


I have reason to believe that Heatkiller will have an acrylic block for the 290X. A few weeks ago I dug up some half-finished pages on their website which were removed about an hour later. Will try to find the functional URL again.









EDIT: Here is the link. http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15031


----------



## Fonne

DDC heatsink housing from EK ...

http://www.techpowerup.com/194655/ek-introduces-industry-first-ddc-heatsink-housing.html


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I read that as Hershey and wondered why you were talking about chocolate.
> 
> @Roxycon, think you have enough hard drives in there? Loop looks good though. The symmetry pleases me. The one black fan hurts my ocd though
> 
> @lowfat, I need to clean a pool of drool off my desk eveytime I see any of your builds. Such attention to detail


heh, actually not







~7tb of space isnt enough for my libraries.. well my plan was to have the 360 passive and two sets of the white fans in the top but since the enthoo does not allow us to place 480's either way i got limited to only 6 fans







sometime in the future the black one gets changed though


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> DDC heatsink housing from EK ...
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/194655/ek-introduces-industry-first-ddc-heatsink-housing.html


Does this actually work? Or is it more a visual/piece-of-mind type thing?

ie; does it actually extend the life of your pump more than... let's say 2 weeks out of 7 years or something.


----------



## VSG

The heatsink definitely works for DDC pumps in keeping temps down.


----------



## tiborrr12

Let's say an uncooled DDC runs at ~ 50-60°C (you cannot measure it if it's covered in original plastic housing). Put a DDC with such heatsink housing in airflow compartment and you will see a 20-30°C temperature drop. That should give you additional couple ten thousand hours of operation over un-cooled one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Let's say an uncooled DDC runs at ~ 50-60°C (you cannot measure it if it's covered in original plastic housing). Put a DDC with such heatsink housing in airflow compartment and you will see a 20-30°C temperature drop. That should give you additional couple ten thousand hours of operation over un-cooled one.


Looks very good,better than the Swiftech and Koolance offering,open spindle end too...I like.

In a low restriction loop,they can hit the thick end of 80c so this HS is long over due.


----------



## lowfat

I think it could use some CSQ circles personally.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## lowfat




----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it could use some CSQ circles personally.


You need help with your polishing addiction


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it could use some CSQ circles personally.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


rofl, best rep response on OCN.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it could use some CSQ circles personally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys,

I'm looking to place an order today for the WC parts for my sig rig (see below). I will be cooling an i7-4770k and 2 x GTX 780 Ti's.

Seeing as EK hasn't released the full-cover waterblocks for the reference GTX 780 Ti, I'm going to order all of the parts except these GPU blocks and the EK-FC bridge just so that I can have ample time to piece together the loop in my build and get familiar with all of the parts, etc. before I order the GTX 780 Ti waterblocks.

I have a Corsair 750D. These are the parts I'm looking to order today.

*GPU Blocks:* _*Waiting for EK to release reference GTX 780 Ti full-cover blocks*_
*CPU Block:* EK Supremacy Universal CPU Block - Clean Plexi - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1912
*Pump/Res:* XSPC Photon 170 Tube Glass Cylinder Reservoir / Pump Combo - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21480/ex-pmp-263/XSPC_Photon_170_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_D5_Vario.html
*360mm radiator:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14857/ex-rad-333/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Triple_120mm_Radiator.html
*280mm radiator:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16825/ex-rad-426/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html
*Tubing:* PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 1/2"ID x 3/4" OD - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17585/ex-tub-1577/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_12ID_x_34_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXA10-34.html?tl=g30c99s1614
*Compression Fittings:* Bitspower G1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10037/ex-tub-606/Bitspower_G14_Thread_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1609
*Coolant:* Alphacool Ultra Pure Water - 1000mL - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14874/ex-liq-202/Alphacool_Ultra_Pure_Water_-_1000mL.html
Thoughts? Also, I'm looking for quality radiator fans for this build as well... 120mm and 140mm. Preferably with red LED's, nothing cheap though. If I can't get a decent quality fan with an LED then it's not a huge deal. I don't want any cheap LED fans for my rads.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is probably my last build for a while (promised the better half to stop after this one). Might as well go all out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ah looking forward to it, I'm trying to pull the trigger on my TH10 right now, almost shifted to an STH10 WITH a pedestal but don't want to run cables that high up and down, please do update us once you start your new build log!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Gotta say, I'm a little bummed I ordered my Gentle Typhoons from FrozenCPU after seeing that performance-pcs sleeves them for free


Yeah I've heard negative things about Frozen's treatment and all from quite a few people, especially their methods of packing.

As for the Cougar Red LED fans, am I just color blind or are they?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


this made my day.

w/c content!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm looking to place an order today for the WC parts for my sig rig (see below). I will be cooling an i7-4770k and 2 x GTX 780 Ti's.
> 
> Seeing as EK hasn't released the full-cover waterblocks for the reference GTX 780 Ti, I'm going to order all of the parts except these GPU blocks and the EK-FC bridge just so that I can have ample time to piece together the loop in my build and get familiar with all of the parts, etc. before I order the GTX 780 Ti waterblocks.
> 
> I have a Corsair 750D. These are the parts I'm looking to order today.
> 
> *GPU Blocks:* *Waiting for EK to release reference GTX 780 Ti full-cover blocks*
> *CPU Block:* EK Supremacy Universal CPU Block - Clean Plexi - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1912
> *Pump/Res:* XSPC Photon 170 Tube Glass Cylinder Reservoir / Pump Combo - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21480/ex-pmp-263/XSPC_Photon_170_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_D5_Vario.html
> *360mm radiator:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14857/ex-rad-333/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Triple_120mm_Radiator.html
> *280mm radiator:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16825/ex-rad-426/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html
> *Tubing:* PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 1/2"ID x 3/4" OD - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17585/ex-tub-1577/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_12ID_x_34_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXA10-34.html?tl=g30c99s1614
> *Compression Fittings:* Bitspower G1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10037/ex-tub-606/Bitspower_G14_Thread_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1609
> *Coolant:* Alphacool Ultra Pure Water - 1000mL - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14874/ex-liq-202/Alphacool_Ultra_Pure_Water_-_1000mL.html
> Thoughts? Also, I'm looking for quality radiator fans for this build as well... 120mm and 140mm. Preferably with red LED's, nothing cheap though. If I can't get a decent quality fan with an LED then it's not a huge deal. I don't want any cheap LED fans for my rads.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Looks good, other than the coolant. Since you're running our blocks and plan on purchasing coolant than I'd recommend our own EK-Ekoolant. We have clear 

Also the 780 ti blocks will be ready, very very soon. Might save yourself some shipping costs unless you're in a rush.

I own Cougar fans and they're quite nice. They have RED LEDs and available both in 120mm and 140mm.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Looks good, other than the coolant. Since you're running our blocks and plan on purchasing coolant than I'd recommend our own EK-Ekoolant. We have clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the 780 ti blocks will be ready, very very soon. Might save yourself some shipping costs unless you're in a rush.
> 
> I own Cougar fans and they're quite nice. They have RED LEDs and available both in 120mm and 140mm.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't get it I"m seeing orange in these photos ;__;


----------



## derickwm

Fans are orange, LEDs are very much red though. Red and orange are pretty close on the color wheel though so it becomes kind of a blur


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Fans are orange, LEDs are very much red though. Red and orange are pretty close on the color wheel though so it becomes kind of a blur


Ahh I heard cougars weren't great contenders for SP though? At least against SP-120's AP-15's and NB's though yeah I'd love some LED goodness in my TH10









w00t 404 posts, guess I'll be missing for a while ~


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I have reason to believe that Heatkiller will have an acrylic block for the 290X. A few weeks ago I dug up some half-finished pages on their website which were removed about an hour later. Will try to find the functional URL again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Here is the link. http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15031


yeah my mistake I was actually thinking of aquagrafx. Those are all hideous. Heatkiller isn't as bad. Still I think the ek blocks just look so clean and refined, especially the clean csq versions.


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## szeged

looks nice









galvanic corrosion in 3...2...


----------



## minicooper1

why?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> why?


the waterchannel on the maximus vi formula is made of aluminum, when mixed with copper/nickle plated copper, it can cause galvanic corrosion, although asus has anodized it and swear up and down left and right that their blocks wont cause corrosion, it will, even the slightest scratch when installing a fitting etc etc and boom, there goes the neighborhood.

Luckily EK has got us covered


----------



## VSG

Excuse my absence of actual pictures for a minute here (my camera sensor is on its annual cleaning/maintenance). In the meantime, could I get opinions on these proposed loops:

Loop 1 (Res->pump->Rad 1->Rad 2->MoBo->CPU->GPU->Res):


Loop 2 (Res->pump->Rad 1->Rad 2->CPU->GPU->Res):


Loop 3 (Res->pump->CPU->MoBo->Rad 2->GPU->Rad 1->Res):


Loop 4 (Res->pump->CPU->Rad 2->GPU->Rad 1->Res):


The pump is behind rad 1.

Loops 1 and 3 are the major changes, loops 2 and 4 are just omissions of cooling the motherboard (undecided yet, will be getting the EK blocks for the M6F if I decide to do so). Specs are in my sig for the components. Now, loop 1 (and 2 accordingly) will be the cleanest runs but this will involve rad->rad and CPU->dual GPU. Also the CPU to GPU connection might be tight once my koolance QDCs get here (not a deal breaker of course, I got plenty of angle adapters). Loop 3/4 will not be easy to route but makes sense thermodynamically. Note that I can't turn around rad 2 because my 5 1/2" bays will be pretty much occupied. I also have both rads on intake if that changes anything.

Any thoughts will be appreciated.


----------



## derickwm

Assuming this is loop 3:










It has my vote.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Looks good, other than the coolant. Since you're running our blocks and plan on purchasing coolant than I'd recommend our own EK-Ekoolant. We have clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the 780 ti blocks will be ready, very very soon. Might save yourself some shipping costs unless you're in a rush.
> 
> I own Cougar fans and they're quite nice. They have RED LEDs and available both in 120mm and 140mm.


Very, very soon you say? Interesting









Thanks! I might as well just wait now and place the order all at once!


----------



## LiquidHaus

might wanna ease up on the corner back plate screw; it's bending your pcb


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


Yeah definitely loosen up the screws.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


You need to fix the PCB bend ASAP...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Assuming this is loop 3:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has my vote.


Thanks Derick. Anyone else have any thoughts?


----------



## Anoxy

edit: nevermind I found it on swiftech's website. Sorry.

Trying to cram as much into my tiny mid tower as possible, it's proving to be difficult


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You need to fix the PCB bend ASAP...
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Looks like something in the middle needs to be tightened or something is not in the right place. The end/corners should be tight. Either way this needs to be addressed pronto:thumb:


----------



## Anoxy

Does anyone know if it's possible to mount this to a 120mm fan, and if so, how?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Those back plates should have those small black spacers included so that once every screw is threaded in all the way the space is uniform. I think he may have forgotten one.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible to mount this to a 120mm fan, and if so, how?


UN mounts? Z2 bracket or something

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible to mount this to a 120mm fan, and if so, how?


I just did it with my rig.

Here's how:
You get the really hard to find Danger Den 120mm fan grills



Run some bolts with large washers on them to mount through the "DD", and boom.




If you cant find a suitable fan grill, I would be willing to sell you one of my 4 that I have. I loved Danger Den so I'd be a bit sad to let one go but lemme know if you can't find anything else that would work.

Otherwise, Watercool makes a bracket as well as Alphacool but the only place I've found both in stock is Aquatuning.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks Derick. Anyone else have any thoughts?


I choose and use #3. I like the idea of dumping heat out after the GPUs above the top rad before going into the mobo/CPU. GPUs dumps out more heat than CPUs. Even though some say it doesn't matter what the loop order is and that it's only by a couple degrees difference, this to me seems to be the better difference instead of going block>block>block>pump/res>rad>rad.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> UN mounts? Z2 bracket or something
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I saw that Z2 bracket but I can't figure out how it mounts or how the reservoir attaches to it. There aren't any good example photos that I could find.


----------



## matada

Here's my loop



Corsair Cube case fits a 360mm rad? I call shenanigans!

I've since changed the mobo to a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3, and put sleeved cables in.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible to mount this to a 120mm fan, and if so, how?


Try these products:

http://www.undesignsbrackets.com/products/


----------



## Anoxy

Thanks guys. That Danger Den solution is interesting, but I'm really flabbergasted that nobody makes a res/pump combo like the XSPC Photon that can be mounted vertically to fans/radiators.


----------



## derickwm

We've tossed around the idea of one in the future. I'll check what the status of it is.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> UN mounts? Z2 bracket or something
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I saw that Z2 bracket but I can't figure out how it mounts or how the reservoir attaches to it. There aren't any good example photos that I could find.
Click to expand...











Hope that helped









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks guys. That Danger Den solution is interesting, but I'm really flabbergasted that nobody makes a res/pump combo like the XSPC Photon that can be mounted vertically to fans/radiators.


There is this little guy from Bitspower too
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14355/ex-rad-318/Bitspower_120mm_Water_Tank_Mount_Panel_BP-120WTMP-BK.html

I have one, but I haven't actually used it yet so I cannot comment on that..


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> There is this little guy from Bitspower too
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14355/ex-rad-318/Bitspower_120mm_Water_Tank_Mount_Panel_BP-120WTMP-BK.html
> 
> I have one, but I haven't actually used it yet so I cannot comment on that..


Thanks, that's the closest thing to what I'm looking for, except I'd need it to mount both my pump (MCP-655) and the reservoir. Maybe I just need to invent one myself. I'm envisioning a tube reservoir where the pump can slide right up into the bottom of it and screw in.


----------



## kpoeticg

I bought 2 of the Z2 Brackets. I haven't finished my mod yet, so they're not mounted, but it's pretty straight forward. I'm gonna be mounting them side by side on a 240 rad with the mounts vertical. I'm planning to mount my Photon 170 on the top half and a Dual DDC Top on the bottom half. It looks like the Photon will stretch pretty evenly across the 2 mounts and the DDC Top might only take up one mount.

I hope that was clear


----------



## lowfat

Koolance reservoirs can be mounted to 120 or 140 mm fans/radiators. This includes their d5 pump / reservoir combos.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks, that's the closest thing to what I'm looking for, except I'd need it to mount both my pump (MCP-655) and the reservoir. Maybe I just need to invent one myself. I'm envisioning a tube reservoir where the pump can slide right up into the bottom of it and screw in.


That kind of combo exists. It's the Aquacomputer Aqualis.


----------



## Juthos




----------



## szeged

Do want.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Wow. Bitspower you have made me want to run acrylic now.


----------



## Inviso

Wheres the fun in hard acrylic if you're not going to bend it?


----------



## fast_fate

How do these fittings change things though ??
The G 1/4 fittings look nice - the rest are just tube joiners I reckon.
Shouldn't we be bending our acrylic - not using fittings to turn corners ?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> Wheres the fun in hard acrylic if you're not going to bend it?


Agreed, could give flexibility in tight quarters though.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> How do these fittings change things though ??
> The G 1/4 fittings look nice - the rest are just tube joiners I reckon.
> Shouldn't we be bending our acrylic - not using fittings to turn corners ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


True and thats one heck of a loop man
I see no build log in your sig, you have one?


----------



## SamNicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Loop 3 (Res->pump->CPU->MoBo->Rad 2->GPU->Rad 1->Res):
> 
> 
> Loop 4 (Res->pump->CPU->Rad 2->GPU->Rad 1->Res):


i voted for loop 4 but if you plan to water cooling your mobo than loop 3 is the best option


----------



## lowfat

Bitspower needs to ditch the nasty gold logos.









Those compressions are ridiculously low profile. I can't see how they can be all that secure.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> True and thats one heck of a loop man
> I see no build log in your sig, you have one?


Build Log *Elyium* still in progress

Heaps of photos of the Acrylic work updated today


----------



## Adam182

Anyone got any idea when those new bitspower fittings will be available? they look awesome!, Thanks - Adam


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Excuse my absence of actual pictures for a minute here (my camera sensor is on its annual cleaning/maintenance). In the meantime, could I get opinions on these proposed loops:
> 
> Loop 1 (Res->pump->Rad 1->Rad 2->MoBo->CPU->GPU->Res):
> 
> 
> Loop 2 (Res->pump->Rad 1->Rad 2->CPU->GPU->Res):
> 
> 
> Loop 3 (Res->pump->CPU->MoBo->Rad 2->GPU->Rad 1->Res):
> 
> 
> Loop 4 (Res->pump->CPU->Rad 2->GPU->Rad 1->Res):
> 
> 
> The pump is behind rad 1.
> 
> Loops 1 and 3 are the major changes, loops 2 and 4 are just omissions of cooling the motherboard (undecided yet, will be getting the EK blocks for the M6F if I decide to do so). Specs are in my sig for the components. Now, loop 1 (and 2 accordingly) will be the cleanest runs but this will involve rad->rad and CPU->dual GPU. Also the CPU to GPU connection might be tight once my koolance QDCs get here (not a deal breaker of course, I got plenty of angle adapters). Loop 3/4 will not be easy to route but makes sense thermodynamically. Note that I can't turn around rad 2 because my 5 1/2" bays will be pretty much occupied. I also have both rads on intake if that changes anything.
> 
> Any thoughts will be appreciated.


I'd go with 1, it should be the easiest to impliment and honestly will look better for flow reasons.
However temps is less than 2c difference depending on which to go for first, a rad or a block so if you were wondering about that I wouldn't worry at all!


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Anyone got any idea when those new bitspower fittings will be available? they look awesome!, Thanks - Adam


They are beautiful, makes me want to switch to acrylic especially since how clean it looks. Only peoblem I have is I don't know if I want to go through the hassle.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Bitspower we want white ones


----------



## Thrasher1016

*I love being off for the whole weekend and having all this to come back to!







*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Honestly, you can't go wrong with radiators, but most people here seem to like Alphacool rads.


HWL Black Ice, don't forget them too!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> These responses *please me*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a very... _telling_ response yourself there, B!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Werd.
> 
> Polished EK FTW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4269-3.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-10-3.jpg.html


Yeah yeah, we all know you have a sickness and a gift, all at the same time...











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*






Like they said, investigate that bent PCB.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> Wheres the fun in hard acrylic if you're not going to bend it?


See, I would have said that two months ago, but after two meters of ruined tubing, I'm beginning to see the appeal here...

Thanks - T


----------



## Inviso

If it was easy, anybody would do it.

Patience and practice show more than buying $50 of tacky fittings any day.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> If it was easy, anybody would do it.
> 
> Patience and practice show more than buying $50 of tacky fittings any day.


Agreed, I have no problem with my tubes as jerry rigged as my cooling is


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxmoncada*
> 
> I would like to spend less then $300 for a cpu/gpu loop but i would hate to spend alot on the gpu block because you get a new one everytime you upgrade...


$240 for a kit

$52 for a GPU block

There ya go.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> If it was easy, anybody would do it.
> 
> Patience and practice show more than buying $50 of tacky fittings any day.


My bet is that the number is a lot closer to $500 than $50 by the time it's ready to fill.









Darlene


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> If it was easy, anybody would do it.
> 
> Patience and practice show more than buying $50 of tacky fittings any day.


Well, fair point said, bu I'm going to a semi-permanent bench setup now anyway, so since I'm not going to be in a solid case with my main rig for some time, I'll just use the Monsoons and tubing I already have!

I do want to master the acrylic thing though, and I've got plenty of time once this is done, so there's always a positive!

Thanks - T


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Well, fair point said, bu I'm going to a semi-permanent bench setup now anyway, so since I'm not going to be in a solid case with my main rig for some time, I'll just use the Monsoons and tubing I already have!
> 
> I do want to master the acrylic thing though, and I've got plenty of time once this is done, so there's always a positive!
> 
> Thanks - T


This is my other issues with acrylic tubing, how does chaning out components work?
I feel like you'd have to tear down the whole loop while just trying to install a new cpu.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> This is my other issues with acrylic tubing, how does chaning out components work?
> I feel like you'd have to tear down the whole loop while just trying to install a new cpu.


Yes it is a lot of work. I have a new CPU sitting on my desk but don't feel like spending a couple of hours to swap it out.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> If it was easy, anybody would do it.
> 
> Patience and practice show more than buying $50 of tacky fittings any day.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> This is my other issues with acrylic tubing, how does chaning out components work?
> I feel like you'd have to tear down the whole loop while just trying to install a new cpu.


I don't mind a breakdown as long as I have a second PC, which I do, but what bugs me is that say you have a run that's 13cm long, and now because of a component change, that same run is now 14cm.
New bends, more work... And _yes_, I get that all of that is part of the appeal, but to a point only, at least with me!









Thanks - T


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yes it is a lot of work. I have a new CPU sitting on my desk but don't feel like spending a couple of hours to swap it out.


Ouch, sorry to hear that bud. Well good luck to getting that bad boy in!


----------



## Trolle BE

would http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en&set=1 be any good as a rad fan?
im use a XT45 360mm


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> *I don't mind a breakdown as long as I have a second PC, which I do,* but what bugs me is that say you have a run that's 13cm long, and now because of a component change, that same run is now 14cm.
> New bends, more work... And _yes_, I get that all of that is part of the appeal, but to a point only, at least with me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


This. I was putting off tearing down and cleaning my loop because I didn't have a second PC at the time. Now that I have the living room HTPC finished I at least have something to browse around on and do some _light_ gaming while I clean and rebuild
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> would http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en&set=1 be any good as a rad fan?
> im use a XT45 360mm


If you don't mind that god awful color, I've heard they're pretty good. Very expensive though. If you're looking for a good PWM fan check out Enermax TB Silence, Corsair SP120 fans, Bitfenix Sceptre, and Cougar Vortex


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> would http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en&set=1 be any good as a rad fan?
> im use a XT45 360mm


They're decent fans, I don't really like noctuas.
I'd rather go with Scythes or Corsair SP 120s, plus they look SIGNIFICANTLY better aesthetically.

>Noctua in charge of turning away customers with tan and poop brown fans since ever
Should have made black with silver/gray accents for maximum sex appeal but NOPE, let's ruin one of the better fans on the market.


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> They're decent fans, I don't really like noctuas.
> I'd rather go with Scythes or Corsair SP 120s, plus they look SIGNIFICANTLY better aesthetically.
> 
> >Noctua in charge of turning away customers with tan and poop brown fans since ever
> Should have made black with silver/gray accents for maximum sex appeal but NOPE, let's ruin one of the better fans on the market.


the color isnt really a problem(i wont be able to see them anyway)
my ap-15's are starting to get noisy at 1850rpm so i am looking to replace them and go push-pull on my rad.
i also used sp 120's on my previous h80i but they were far from quiet


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> the color isnt really a problem(i wont be able to see them anyway)
> my ap-15's are starting to get noisy at 1850rpm so i am looking to replace them and go push-pull on my rad.
> i also use sp 120's on my previous h80i but they were far from quiet


That's why you use voltage regulators/control their speed!

Noctua's aren't really that more quiet from what i know, there's also Gentle Typhoons you can look into. Great fans, can be very quiet for what air they push.

My fans in my case are decently noisey, not too much but I'd rather have noise and best preformance for keeping my fx-8320 cool.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> the color isnt really a problem(i wont be able to see them anyway)
> my ap-15's are starting to get noisy at 1850rpm so i am looking to replace them and go push-pull on my rad.
> i also used sp 120's on my previous h80i but they were far from quiet


It would be cheaper and less of a hastle to just get a fan controller and turn them down to the desired noise level


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> the color isnt really a problem(i wont be able to see them anyway)
> my ap-15's are starting to get noisy at 1850rpm so i am looking to replace them and go push-pull on my rad.
> i also used sp 120's on my previous h80i but they were far from quiet


Finally!!!! Another complaint on APs and not just the looks







.

Waiting on parts so I got to some cleaning done and some spray painting done on some fittings:



There's six new enzotech fittings there too on the bottom right







. Lol, didn't realize the o-rings are glow-in-the-dark and so is the "enzo" name printed on the a couple of compression 90s.


----------



## Pimphare

Yes. A fan controller is what I'm in the market for!


----------



## Trolle BE

i have them on a fan controller at around 1400rpm but when im playing bf4 my temps get to high so i have to ramp them up to 1850rpm wich makes them way to noisey


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> i have them on a fan controller at around 1400rpm but when im playing bf4 my temps get to high so i have to ramp them up to 1850rpm wich makes them way to noisey


Put some headphones on and rock that *****!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Every fan at 1800+ rpm gets noisy,at least GTs produce the airflow to make 1800+ worthwhile.
Noctuas....weak fan that looks like a prosthetic limb.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Every fan at 1800+ rpm gets noisy,at least GTs produce the airflow to make 1800+ worthwhile.
> Noctuas....weak fan that looks like a prosthetic limb.


LOL I thought the Noctuas have good reviews? They sure need to make some new color schemes.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Noctuas....weak fan that looks like a prosthetic limb.










SO true but they paint easily!


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Every fan at 1800+ rpm gets noisy,at least GTs produce the airflow to make 1800+ worthwhile.
> Noctuas....weak fan that looks like a prosthetic limb.


mine make a whining noise,or a high pitching noise.
so i kinda wanna try some new fans


----------



## macandy13

Still getting plasticiser building up after changing out the tubing and straining the fluid with a fine coffee strainer









Think it might have been the strainer not being fine enough though. It shouldn't hurt my loop too much should it? As I'm hoping to just leave it for a few weeks till i see about getting an STH10 and some acrylic









Hope you don't mind me stealing this as a quote B








Quote:


> Noctuas....weak fan that looks like a prosthetic limb


Made me chuckle


----------



## B NEGATIVE

At least get my name in there for more troll glory.....

My favorite quote ever is "I only go for women with 1/4" threads"


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> At least get my name in there for more troll glory.....
> 
> My favorite quote ever is "I only go for women with 1/4" threads"


I only go for women that don't have plasticzer in their tubes.


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys,

I know this has been asked before, and I've researched OCN for the feedback in regards to this, but what would be the best option for a 140mm radiator fan? I'm using an Alphacool 360mm UT60 radiator, which I'm using the Corsair SP120's on, and I'm also using an Alphacool UT60 280 mm radiator. Since they don't make the SP120's in a 140mm variant, what are some of my best options as far as a 140mm fan that has high static pressure while also quiet as well?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I know this has been asked before, and I've researched OCN for the feedback in regards to this, but what would be the best option for a 140mm radiator fan? I'm using an Alphacool 360mm UT60 radiator, which I'm using the Corsair SP120's on, and I'm also using an Alphacool UT60 280 mm radiator. Since they don't make the SP120's in a 140mm variant, what are some of my best options as far as a 140mm fan that has high static pressure while also quiet as well?


I've heard good things about Cougar fans and BGears Blasters


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Excuse
> 
> Loop 3 (Res->pump->CPU->MoBo->Rad 2->GPU->Rad 1->Res):
> 
> 
> .


You should do this however instead of returning from the CPU to the bottom of the res you should return from the CPU to the top of the res, shorter run and more circular in motion


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> You should do this however instead of returning from the CPU to the bottom of the res you should return from the CPU to the top of the res, shorter run and more circular in motion


I am sorry if my illustration was confusing but in that loop above, the pump outlet goes directly to the CPU, onto rad 2, GPU blocks, rad 1 and back to the bottom of the reservoir.


----------



## iandroo888

totally bought wrong size QDCs ... Koolance VL3N 3/8 ID 1/2 OD for 7/16 ID 5/8 OD Duralene tubing

XD put them in anyway >_> compression doesnt fit all the way.. screwed in maybe 1/2 the way.. cut my right hand like 4 times trying (lack of grip and .. yeah lol) put bandaids and a rubber glove... bled into glove while continuing to try.. added grip from the glove but still couldnt get in all the way (maybe 2/3 now)

Should be ok right? no leaks. had it running all night. =X just running pure water with a silver coil

Excuse the quality of picture.. Quickly taken last night


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> totally bought wrong size QDCs ... Koolance VL3N 3/8 ID 1/2 OD for 7/16 ID 5/8 OD Duralene tubing
> 
> XD put them in anyway >_> compression doesnt fit all the way.. screwed in maybe 1/2 the way.. cut my right hand like 4 times trying (lack of grip and .. yeah lol) put bandaids and a rubber glove... bled into glove while continuing to try.. added grip from the glove but still couldnt get in all the way (maybe 2/3 now)
> 
> Should be ok right? no leaks. had it running all night. =X just running pure water with a silver coil
> 
> Excuse the quality of picture.. Quickly taken last night


If the tubing is on all the way (tight and snug I would assume lol) you should be fine, especially with the compression fittings being on at least half of the way.

You always get ba better safe seal taking a smaller diameter tubing over a higher diameter fitting, if it ran all night and no leaks, I see no leaks in your future.

Grats


----------



## Willi

About those bitspower hard-acrylic fittings... I see the appeal, but too many of them on a bend-intensive rig would look polluted. What appeals to me is the clean look that bent acrylic gives, specially without any connections or adapters for tight corners or bends.


----------



## szeged

i prefer the tons of fitting style for acrylic personally, thats why im happy these are coming out







straight runs and all black sparkle fittings for bends/connections


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> About those bitspower hard-acrylic fittings... I see the appeal, but too many of them on a bend-intensive rig would look polluted. What appeals to me is the clean look that bent acrylic gives, specially without any connections or adapters for tight corners or bends.


I love clean acrylic builds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i prefer the tons of fitting style for acrylic personally, thats why im happy these are coming out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> straight runs and all black sparkle fittings for bends/connections


This also pleases me, where the acrylic runs in parallel while the fitings do the work.

I'm torn between the two like a lover in a love triangle ;_;


----------



## Drifbau5

For acrylic I prefer that builds that have really straight simple runs where almost everything was meant to be ther by fate haha. Pretty much not a lot of bending. I could see where those fittings would help make that possible


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I know this has been asked before, and I've researched OCN for the feedback in regards to this, but what would be the best option for a 140mm radiator fan? I'm using an Alphacool 360mm UT60 radiator, which I'm using the Corsair SP120's on, and I'm also using an Alphacool UT60 280 mm radiator. Since they don't make the SP120's in a 140mm variant, what are some of my best options as far as a 140mm fan that has high static pressure while also quiet as well?


120mm Gentle Typhoons w/ Bgear/Bitspower 120mm to 140mm adapters.

I am also a big fan of the medium speed 140mm Yate Loons. They are quite a bit better than the 120mm variation.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 120mm Gentle Typhoons w/ Bgear/Bitspower 120mm to 140mm adapters.
> 
> I am also a big fan of the medium speed 140mm Yate Loons. They are quite a bit better than the 120mm variation.


>yate Loons
Too bad they're always out of stock when I get tempted to buy them


----------



## brandon6199

Thoughts on mounting 2 of these on an AlphaCool NexXxos UT60 280 mm radiator?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553013


----------



## Thrasher1016

Heck, I've wanted to take acrylic and do some artsy-fartsy loops and waves, stuff you can't hit and sit right with regular tubing!

_That_ would be cool!

Thanks - T


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thoughts on mounting 2 of these on an AlphaCool NexXxos UT60 280 mm radiator?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553013


Wonderful quiet fans, strong too however the problem is the needed static pressure, depending on FPI on the rad,
In liquid cooling it's usually SP>CFM.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thoughts on mounting 2 of these on an AlphaCool NexXxos UT60 280 mm radiator?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553013


Should get pretty good performance. If they perform similar to their non-LED counterpart, that is.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I know this has been asked before, and I've researched OCN for the feedback in regards to this, but what would be the best option for a 140mm radiator fan? I'm using an Alphacool 360mm UT60 radiator, which I'm using the Corsair SP120's on, and I'm also using an Alphacool UT60 280 mm radiator. Since they don't make the SP120's in a 140mm variant, what are some of my best options as far as a 140mm fan that has high static pressure while also quiet as well?


I'm a _fan_ of the NoiseBlocker PK3's


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






quick Google found this review
1700 rpm for when you need extra cooling performance - not too loud in my opinion.
fan controller in place for when quieter times are desired


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Heck, I've wanted to take acrylic and do some artsy-fartsy loops and waves, stuff you can't hit and sit right with regular tubing!
> 
> _That_ would be cool!


Yeah I can see where if you really make some artistic bends it would look really awesome


----------



## papabur

Stumbling across this build has just made my day!! Very well done, I love the antique look! Simply brilliant build, cant wait to see what else you come up with!


----------



## ginger_nuts

On the topic of fans, if you are the type to use a controller, Y.S. Tech 121225HB are extremely good.

But be made aware, they are fans made for rack servers, at 12v the will blow you away and your ear drums.

On the topic of hard tubing, is it painful to remove every time you want to pull down the loop? Or when you replace parts ? ie blocks, rads etc.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> About those bitspower hard-acrylic fittings... I see the appeal, but too many of them on a bend-intensive rig would look polluted. What appeals to me is the clean look that bent acrylic gives, specially without any connections or adapters for tight corners or bends.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i prefer the tons of fitting style for acrylic personally, thats why im happy these are coming out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> straight runs and all black sparkle fittings for bends/connections


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> I love clean acrylic builds.
> This also pleases me, where the acrylic runs in parallel while the fitings do the work.
> 
> I'm torn between the two like a lover in a love triangle ;_;


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> For acrylic I prefer that builds that have really straight simple runs where almost everything was meant to be ther by fate haha. Pretty much not a lot of bending. I could see where those fittings would help make that possible


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Heck, I've wanted to take acrylic and do some artsy-fartsy loops and waves, stuff you can't hit and sit right with regular tubing!
> 
> _That_ would be cool!
> 
> Thanks - T


I myself have allowed bent acrylic to grow on me. Initially, I was never a fan of "all bent acrylic" at first because almost every build that utilized it has some degree of kink or crookedness to them (just me being nit-picky) and only a few talented ones have gotten it nice and straight.

In my next loop, I plan to a use a combination of both a minimal amount of angle rotaries only at the blocks and rads with bent acrylic going to and fro. Personally, I think it'll bridge the gap between the two styles and help keep things straight while still have some character with acrylic bends.


----------



## SeeThruHead

What do you guys think is the best way to QDC acrylic. I'm pretty scared to used Koolance QDC because they come apart fairly forcefully. I was thinking about another option: Two bitspower ball valves connected by bitspower d-plugs. That I think might work really well, though it would have a little more spillage. Any other options?


----------



## Anoxy

Really the only rigid tubing that appeals to me is copper. If I had any idea how to do that I would.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Ordered one of these from performance pc,is it just as good as a regular kill coil....I will be using it in my current build,will there be a conflict with the rads/blocks i use,meaning i have read that some kill coils wont work well with some components depending on the metal....Has anyone ever used these,im using just distilled water....?

Monsoon Silver Bullet Antimicrobial G1/4 Plug

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1141_1142&products_id=33961


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Ordered one of these from performance pc,is it just as good as a regular kill coil....I will be using it in my current build,will there be a conflict with the rads/blocks i use,meaning i have read that some kill coils wont work well with some components depending on the metal....Has anyone ever used these,im using just distilled water....?
> 
> Monsoon Silver Bullet Antimicrobial G1/4 Plug
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1141_1142&products_id=33961
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you're not running any EK *nickel* blocks (Koolance may also give), you're good


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Really the only rigid tubing that appeals to me is copper. If I had any idea how to do that I would.




And something to cut it, now link us to your build log


----------



## VSG

The funny part about copper tubing is that I built a gas phase reactor about an year ago with tons of copper and stainless steel tubing along with fittings and valves that are about 10 times as expensive than compression fittings. So in a way I am more familiar with copper tubing than flexible plastic. But since this was my first build ever, I went with plastic instead.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And something to cut it, now link us to your build log


Well that makes it much more appealing now. Too bad all of my parts for my first loop are already on their way, otherwise I might give it a go









I would have tried something similar to this:


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> I myself have allowed bent acrylic to grow on me. Initially, I was never a fan of "all bent acrylic" at first because almost every build that utilized it has some degree of kink or crookedness to them (just me being nit-picky) and only a few talented ones have gotten it nice and straight.
> 
> In my next loop, I plan to a use a combination of both a minimal amount of angle rotaries only at the blocks and rads with bent acrylic going to and fro. Personally, I think it'll bridge the gap between the two styles and help keep things straight while still have some character with acrylic bends.


IMO I think all straight line acrylic builds look bad







. Well almost all, there are a few that I've seen where they keep everything at a either vertical or horizontal line. Those ones look good. Otherwise not a fan at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> What do you guys think is the best way to QDC acrylic. I'm pretty scared to used Koolance QDC because they come apart fairly forcefully. I was thinking about another option: Two bitspower ball valves connected by bitspower d-plugs. That I think might work really well, though it would have a little more spillage. Any other options?


QDCs are not really possible. Since acrylic tubing doesn't have any flex you wouldn't ever be able to disconnect the QDCs.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Well that makes it much more appealing now. Too bad all of my parts for my first loop are already on their way, otherwise I might give it a go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have tried something similar to this:


Aw, dont you got a second thoughts law?

Here in norway we can send back products bought on internet and get the money back for the simple reason that we dont like it as long as it isnt used or if its gone less than 14 days since pickup


----------



## Anoxy

Haha if it wasn't my only computer and I wasn't so eager to get it up and running so I have something to use, I would.

Also, FrozenCPU charges re-stocking fees and customers have to pay their own return shipping....pretty lame but such is life









edit:

*Question:* I assume it's ideal that my system dissipates 100% of the wattage put out by my components? However, that just isn't an option for me right now, so by dissipating slightly less than 100% am I losing a lot of performance? Will it still be better than air?


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMO I think all straight line acrylic builds look bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Well almost all, *there are a few that I've seen where they keep everything at a either vertical or horizontal line. Those ones look good.* Otherwise not a fan at all.


I was trying to get my point to this. I have few diagonals in my loop to get rid of with bent acrylic.

Everyone has their personal preferences. Much respect to that.


----------



## matada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> $240 for a kit
> 
> $52 for a GPU block
> 
> There ya go.


I Have the EK L360 and paid $260 (+ 43 2nd day Saturday delivery)

If you spend more, be aware that the rad is HUGE! I read that 360mm rads fit the Corsair Cube.. it only fits if you bend one of the hard drive bays and stuff a 120mm fan on the top.

The kit (at least mine) Is top notch, however I implore you to buy come clear tubing. Mine came with black and it looks like a cheap corsair kit.

The kit (mine) has incredible quality, it runs quiet, the fans are like SILENT.

My CPU idles at as low as 13C (usually between 15-17C with a GTX 770 on my loop.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you're not running any EK *nickel* blocks (Koolance may also give), you're good


Thx wermad,much appreciated....


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Haha if it wasn't my only computer and I wasn't so eager to get it up and running so I have something to use, I would.
> 
> Also, FrozenCPU charges re-stocking fees and customers have to pay their own return shipping....pretty lame but such is life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> 
> *Question:* I assume it's ideal that my system dissipates 100% of the wattage put out by my components? However, that just isn't an option for me right now, so by dissipating slightly less than 100% am I losing a lot of performance? Will it still be better than air?


If you call FrozenCPU, they might not charge restocking fee. They didn't for me when i ordered the wrong Temp Probe Fittings


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> If the tubing is on all the way (tight and snug I would assume lol) you should be fine, especially with the compression fittings being on at least half of the way.
> 
> You always get ba better safe seal taking a smaller diameter tubing over a higher diameter fitting, if it ran all night and no leaks, I see no leaks in your future.
> 
> Grats


i was quite the noob. i didnt know when i ordered this tubing last year. i had gotten the xspc kit for my bday last year and i had bought the same tubing that came with the kit..

yeah its all the way. i actually thought about running it without using the compression fitting and just leaving it on the barb by itself.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Copper pipe is in the plans for my build. But it wont be bare copper, nor will it be nickel/chrome plated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx wermad,much appreciated....


Np. The newer blocks should hold but their support may be negated by using silver with their nickel products. Koolance has had random cases of failure and they have refused warranty when using silver.

With the recent blocks (and after Nickel-Gate), its very unlikely for something to happen, but better safe then sorry. I'm on Lightning blocks w/ nickel bases. I'm going naked and I've done it before with no issues. I just keep an eye on my loop and do routine liquid changes (or just upgrades







) every few months.


----------



## jonnL

*Question* Should I go acetal top or plexi top for my EK 290x block?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnL*
> 
> *Question* Should I go acetal top or plexi top for my EK 290x block?


Its up to you and what you prefer. A lot of folks running colored liquid prefer plexi to show the color off. Black is probably the most common color in custom builds so the acetal continues this theme nicely. I have some acetal w/ stainless steel pieces and they look good.

Btw, in a regular atx layout, only way to see the "top" of the gpu block is from the bottom. Unless you go w/ reverse or horizon layout


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnL*
> 
> *Question* Should I go acetal top or plexi top for my EK 290x block?


If you're using colored coolant I'd say go plexi. If you're just going with plain ol' distilled I'd say acetal.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Np. The newer blocks should hold but their support may be negated by using silver with their nickel products. Koolance has had random cases of failure and they have refused warranty when using silver.
> 
> With the recent blocks (and after Nickel-Gate), its very unlikely for something to happen, but better safe then sorry. I'm on Lightning blocks w/ nickel bases. I'm going naked and I've done it before with no issues. I just keep an eye on my loop and do routine liquid changes (or just upgrades
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) every few months.


I'm running xspc blocks so i'm guess i will be fine....? Also what do you mean by going naked,does that mean without any coils in the res,and how often of a routine liquid change are we talking about....?


----------



## jonnL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its up to you and what you prefer. A lot of folks running colored liquid prefer plexi to show the color off. Black is probably the most common color in custom builds so the acetal continues this theme nicely. I have some acetal w/ stainless steel pieces and they look good.
> 
> Btw, in a regular atx layout, only way to see the "top" of the gpu block is from the bottom. Unless you go w/ reverse or horizon layout


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> If you're using colored coolant I'd say go plexi. If you're just going with plain ol' distilled I'd say acetal.


I'll be just running distilled, but my case is also reversed ATX.. that's my dilemma right now


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm running xspc blocks so i'm guess i will be fine....? Also what do you mean by going naked,does that mean without any coils in the res,and how often of a routine liquid change are we talking about....?


Yup, naked is just plain old distilled. I've ran like that for ~5-6 months and ended up upgrading. But 4-6 months is recommended. I didn't have or have had any growth and tbh, its been a while since I've seen a good case of bio growth in someones loop. I've seen loops running after a year or two w/ nothing. liquid was not perfect but no signs of growth.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup, naked is just plain old distilled. I've ran like that for ~5-6 months and ended up upgrading. But 4-6 months is recommended. I didn't have or have had any growth and tbh, its been a while since I've seen a good case of bio growth in someones loop. I've seen loops running after a year or two w/ nothing. liquid was not perfect but no signs of growth.


Thx again for you help....


----------



## morencyam

Wermad - one of the most helpful members in the watercooling community. He's helped me out so many times with so many different things.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Wermad - one of the most helpful members in the watercooling community. He's helped me out so many times with so many different things.


He's one of my OCN faaaavs hahahah


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Wermad - one of the most helpful members in the watercooling community. He's helped me out so many times with so many different things.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> He's one of my OCN faaaavs hahahah


So true,he's been helpful to me on more than one occassions....


----------



## morencyam

His original 800d was the main inspiration for my first watercooling build in a 700d


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matada*
> 
> I Have the EK L360 and paid $260 (+ 43 2nd day Saturday delivery)
> 
> The kit (at least mine) Is top notch, however I implore you to buy come clear tubing. Mine came with black and it looks like a cheap corsair kit.
> 
> My CPU idles at as low as 13C (usually between 15-17C with a GTX 770 on my loop.


uh, norprene tubing in the kits is actually pretty good. it wont have plasticier issues

you keep your pc room under 62*F? must be hard on the fingers while typing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx again for you help....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Wermad - one of the most helpful members in the watercooling community. He's helped me out so many times with so many different things.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> He's one of my OCN faaaavs hahahah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So true,he's been helpful to me on more than one occassions....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> His original 800d was the main inspiration for my first watercooling build in a 700d
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> His original 800d was the main inspiration for my first watercooling build in a 700d


Yup same here.

Total inspiration for attaining the drive to mod mine.

...But I always felt I had to outdo him with the 800D. Too bad he doesn't still have it heheh


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks, that's the closest thing to what I'm looking for, except I'd need it to mount both my pump (MCP-655) and the reservoir. Maybe I just need to invent one myself. I'm envisioning a tube reservoir where the pump can slide right up into the bottom of it and screw in.


I just did that with my pump and the same rest this weekend.

I used the UN mount http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8797/ex-pmp-79/UNDesigns_Z2_Pump_Bracket_-_120mm_Fan_Mount.html

and the mount included with the EK pump res combo. I mounted the pump bracket to the middle slots of the fan mount and then mounted the fan mount to the 120mm fan holder in the drive cages of my 900D. I initially had it to one of the cages but the pump was too heavy and it was flexing the metal. This installation made it simple and its completely straight.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Yup same here.
> 
> Total inspiration for attaining the drive to mod mine.
> 
> ...But I always felt I had to outdo him with the 800D. Too bad he doesn't still have it heheh


Hardware is not safe for long term use w/ wermad


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I just did that with my pump and the same rest this weekend.
> 
> I used the UN mount http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8797/ex-pmp-79/UNDesigns_Z2_Pump_Bracket_-_120mm_Fan_Mount.html
> 
> and the mount included with the EK pump res combo. I mounted the pump bracket to the middle slots of the fan mount and then mounted the fan mount to the 120mm fan holder in the drive cages of my 900D. I initially had it to one of the cages but the pump was too heavy and it was flexing the metal. This installation made it simple and its completely straight.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, I was thinking about trying to mount my pump/res vertically to one of my Scythe GTs, but now that I look at it I think it would interfere with my GPUs. Looks like I need to start saving for a bigger case lol


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nice, I was thinking about trying to mount my pump/res vertically to one of my Scythe GTs, but now that I look at it I think it would interfere with my GPUs. Looks like I need to start saving for a bigger case lol


Yeah a big case if a must to hold all of this inside. However that res is very low profile which fits nicely. I had a Bits Power Z250 and that was a pain to install that's why I ended moving to this kit.


----------



## matada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> uh, norprene tubing in the kits is actually pretty good. it wont have plasticier issues
> 
> you keep your pc room under 62*F? must be hard on the fingers while typing.


I didn't say there was anything BAD with the tubing. but it's just solid black. can't see through it.

This is the tubing I'm using.


----------



## szeged

planning a new loop for a new build in an sth10, accidentally put a supremacy block in this list, already have one ill probably re use in the build, also have two 780 classified EK blocks in the house already, so they arent listed.



just a rough draft for now, got a lot left to order, thinks in backstock ill just grab from frozencpu.

Still debating if i want to re use the asus maximus vi hero board, or go for the extreme and grab one of those blocks for this build. Still got lots of planning to do, just thought id share.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> planning a new loop for a new build in an sth10, accidentally put a supremacy block in this list, already have one ill probably re use in the build, also have two 780 classified EK blocks in the house already, so they arent listed.
> 
> 
> 
> just a rough draft for now, got a lot left to order, thinks in backstock ill just grab from frozencpu.
> 
> Still debating if i want to re use the asus maximus vi hero board, or go for the extreme and grab one of those blocks for this build. Still got lots of planning to do, just thought id share.


I'd pre plan everything along with the direvtion of the loops you want to go with it, draw it out and show us!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> I'd pre plan everything along with the direvtion of the loops you want to go with it, draw it out and show us!


working on that now


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> I was trying to get my point to this. I have few diagonals in my loop to get rid of with bent acrylic.
> 
> Everyone has their personal preferences. Much respect to that.


Yeah, I think I'm going to eventually do the acrylic thing, probably not on the Wet Bench, but somewhere, and I'm going to do curly-ques and rainbows and all kinds of stuff that will make you all barf!









Thanks - T


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Yeah, I think I'm going to eventually do the acrylic thing, probably not on the Wet Bench, but somewhere, and I'm going to do curly-ques and rainbows and all kinds of stuff that will make you all barf!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


I can't wait to see it!!! I've been tempted to move my mitx set up to a bench... Maybe one of those t slot aluminum ones... Who makes those again. Rosewood?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> planning a new loop for a new build in an sth10, accidentally put a supremacy block in this list, already have one ill probably re use in the build, also have two 780 classified EK blocks in the house already, so they arent listed.
> 
> just a rough draft for now, got a lot left to order, thinks in backstock ill just grab from frozencpu.
> 
> Still debating if i want to re use the asus maximus vi hero board, or go for the extreme and grab one of those blocks for this build. Still got lots of planning to do, just thought id share.


Maybe it is just me but that screenshot is mighty small. I definitely can't read that.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Maybe it is just me but that screenshot is mighty small. I definitely can't read that.


did you open the original image? http://cdn.overclock.net/6/6e/6e130f45_PPC1.png

im having no troubles seeing it :x if it doesnt work ill try to resize it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> did you open the original image? http://cdn.overclock.net/6/6e/6e130f45_PPC1.png
> 
> im having no troubles seeing it :x if it doesnt work ill try to resize it.


Never noticed the original button at the bottom until now.









$2K in just watercooling supplies is just insane.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> planning a new loop for a new build in an sth10, accidentally put a supremacy block in this list, already have one ill probably re use in the build, also have two 780 classified EK blocks in the house already, so they arent listed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just a rough draft for now, got a lot left to order, thinks in backstock ill just grab from frozencpu.
> 
> Still debating if i want to re use the asus maximus vi hero board, or go for the extreme and grab one of those blocks for this build. Still got lots of planning to do, just thought id share.


Original size worked for me. That is going to be one heck of a build. Everything looks good. Running that many fans you may want to thing about a fan controller. Granted AP-15s are fairly quiet for their speed, but having 25 running at full speed would start sounding like a small wind tunnel, I'd imagine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Never noticed the original button at the bottom until now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $2K in just watercooling supplies is just insane.


heh, I never noticed it either. I always just right click->open in new tab


----------



## szeged

Already got a fan controller im gonna use for it







i decided against using it in my current build so its been sitting around lol.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Already got a fan controller im gonna use for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i decided against using it in my current build so its been sitting around lol.


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Never noticed the original button at the bottom until now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $2K in just watercooling supplies is just insane.


No $423 just for fans is insane, or ******ed, I haven't figured out which. That is some serious sticker shock. And that is a whole lot of radiator!


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> No $423 just for fans is insane, or ******ed, I haven't figured out which. That is some serious sticker shock. And that is a whole lot of radiator!


did someone say radiators


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> did someone say radiators


Are you planning on doing CPU only, because that's some weakass radiator capacity for whole rig.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> Are you planning on doing CPU only, because that's some weakass radiator capacity for whole rig.


lulz, it's for two rigs inside a TX10-D + Ped. Though actually the 240s and the thin 360 shouldn't be in this photo, they are spare right now. 140.9 for workstation cpu, 120 for workstation motherboard/ram/gpu. 2x560 for gaming rig cpu, 4x360 for gaming gpus, 120 for gaming motherboard/ram.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> planning a new loop for a new build in an sth10, accidentally put a supremacy block in this list, already have one ill probably re use in the build, also have two 780 classified EK blocks in the house already, so they arent listed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just a rough draft for now, got a lot left to order, thinks in backstock ill just grab from frozencpu.
> 
> Still debating if i want to re use the asus maximus vi hero board, or go for the extreme and grab one of those blocks for this build. Still got lots of planning to do, just thought id share.


This looks really good. for the sth10 you should definitely go for the extreme.


----------



## lordhinton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> did someone say radiators


all of that you have and all i wish for is a small loop with a 240








christmas needs to show up sooner


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks really good. for the sth10 you should definitely go for the extreme.


Is there still that one in fs for $225?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Anyone have some good suggestions for a 5/7 channel fan controller that is moderately inexpensive but not garbage? This Bitfenix Recon is ticking me off because it cannot provide consistent constant voltage, and I hate running the AP-15s at anything higher than 800rpms (I can hear 1000 T.T),


----------



## morencyam

I've heard good things about the Sunbeam Rheosmart 6. Not too expensive and has 30W per channel. Never tried it myself though


----------



## kpoeticg

Lamptron makes real good controllers if you don't wanna spring for an Aquaero. Could always get an Aquaero 5 LT tho. They're cheap enough


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Anyone have some good suggestions for a 5/7 channel fan controller that is moderately inexpensive but not garbage? This Bitfenix Recon is ticking me off because it cannot provide consistent constant voltage, and I hate running the AP-15s at anything higher than 800rpms (I can hear 1000 T.T),


Personally I'm using the Lamptron FC touch and I'm extremely happy with it, I'm running 4 fans per channel and it is very consistent. You might be able to find an used one for a reasonable price. I bought mine from eBay for $40.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Personally I'm using the Lamptron FC touch and I'm extremely happy with it, I'm running 4 fans per channel and it is very consistent. You might be able to find an used one for a reasonable price. I bought mine from eBay for $40.


Lamptron makes great controllers.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've heard good things about the Sunbeam Rheosmart 6. Not too expensive and has 30W per channel. Never tried it myself though


I tried the smaller rheosmart and was dissapointed in the PWM to 3 pin conversion. I could only drop the AP15s to about 1300rpm, while with the manual voltage control I could take them down to 500rpm.


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Lamptron FC5-V3. I just got the V2 which has 4 channels and like it a lot.


----------



## Angrychair

here was my first watercooling setup minus the actual PC





This was my 2nd watercooled setup circa 2001(AMD Athlon 1Ghz @ 1.3 with a Geforce ti4600)
Koolance case with koolance pump and radiator with Danger Den Maze 2 block


my 3rd around 2003 (AMD Athlon 2500+ Barton at 2.5Ghz and a Gainward 6800 ultra golden sample)
Danger Den loop custom loop TDX cpu block and Maze chipset block MCP pump and DD radiator






next few builds were not watercooled.

and my current setup


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Personally I'm using the Lamptron FC touch and I'm extremely happy with it, I'm running 4 fans per channel and it is very consistent. You might be able to find an used one for a reasonable price. I bought mine from eBay for $40.


Hmm, that looks to be pretty much what I was looking for.

Thanks for the help everyone! I'm a stickler for silence, and the Recon can't make the AP-15s silent (under my hearing threshold, which unfortunately I'm blessed/cursed with very good hearing).


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> here was my first watercooling setup minus the actual PC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bonneville heatercore w/ Sunon fans?

Watercooling back in the day definitely was different.

I changed my coolant in my Lian Li to a non-pastel last night. I can definitely say I like it a hell of a lot more.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-18-4.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-22-4.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-20-3.jpg.html


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Bonneville heatercore w/ Sunon fans?
> 
> Watercooling back in the day definitely was different.
> 
> I changed my coolant in my Lian Li to a non-pastel last night. I can definitely say I like it a hell of a lot more.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-18-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-22-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-20-3.jpg.html


it was actually a Jeep Wagoneer heatercore, thank you very much









yeah you couldn't buy modern watercooling radiators until around 2000 or so, it has came a long way, and the road has been a beautiful progression, just look at your build, it's beautiful in its own right, but compare it to a build 10 years ago and it becomes something extraordinary.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Bonneville heatercore w/ Sunon fans?
> 
> Watercooling back in the day definitely was different.
> 
> I changed my coolant in my Lian Li to a non-pastel last night. I can definitely say I like it a hell of a lot more.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-18-4.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-22-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-20-3.jpg.html


I like the look of the blue, are you using Mayhem?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> it was actually a Jeep Wagoneer heatercore, thank you very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah you couldn't buy modern watercooling radiators until around 2000 or so, it has came a long way, and the road has been a beautiful progression, just look at your build, it's beautiful in its own right, but compare it to a build 10 years ago and it becomes something extraordinary.


This is my first.









It seems I also lived like a slob back then.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/computer/amd2500/bdon029Large.jpg.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I like the look of the blue, are you using Mayhem?


Yes it is a mix of deep blue and purple.


----------



## Angrychair

ah that brings back memories of the old days

edit: rigid tubing is the future now, definitely will be using it in my next build(probably not for at least a year more like 2)


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

What size EK HD fittings are you using, lowfat?


----------



## Ice Reign

After many months of creeping this thread and after tons of research, I have completed my first loop. It was challenging but also very rewarding. I would like to thank the contributors of this thread as the information and inspiration provided was invaluable.

I had to do a fair bit of cutting of my 600T to accommodate the rads and the pump and res combo sitting atop the hard drive cage required standoffs and a support bracket.

The loop consists of:

Alphacool Monsta 240
Alphacool ST30
EK CPU and GPU blocks, Pump Top and Res, Hard Tubing
Bitspower Fittings
Corsair SP120 and AF120 Fans

The cables I sleeved myself with paracord.

The fluid is distilled with 2 drops of Mayhems Blue (may add more, the tube colour is a little light. I wanted it to match the turquoise paracord)

Sorry for the low quality pictures, they were taken in a bit of a rush and also without the proper equipment (phone).


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> What size EK HD fittings are you using, lowfat?


They are actually Primochill fittings & tubing.


----------



## RickRockerr

Hi all, what would temp gain be from 45mm 280 rad to 280 monsta (80mm)


----------



## tiborrr12

@lowfat: beautiful


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Personally I'm using the Lamptron FC touch and I'm extremely happy with it, I'm running 4 fans per channel and it is very consistent. You might be able to find an used one for a reasonable price. I bought mine from eBay for $40.


I also use the Touch and can vouch for it's awesomeness. I had to mod it slightly because it wasn't sitting flush with the front bezel so I just dremeled out the mounting holes into slots and used screws and nuts to mount it and it worked fine.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Hi all, what would temp gain be from 45mm 280 rad to 280 monsta (80mm)


Realistically? Probably nothing measurable.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I hope Primochilll does a 16mm fitting... That would be stellar!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> After many months of creeping this thread and after tons of research, I have completed my first loop. It was challenging but also very rewarding. I would like to thank the contributors of this thread as the information and inspiration provided was invaluable.
> 
> I had to do a fair bit of cutting of my 600T to accommodate the rads and the pump and res combo sitting atop the hard drive cage required standoffs and a support bracket.
> 
> The loop consists of:
> 
> Alphacool Monsta 240
> Alphacool ST30
> EK CPU and GPU blocks, Pump Top and Res, Hard Tubing
> Bitspower Fittings
> Corsair SP120 and AF120 Fans
> 
> The cables I sleeved myself with paracord.
> 
> The fluid is distilled with 2 drops of Mayhems Blue (may add more, the tube colour is a little light. I wanted it to match the turquoise paracord)
> 
> Sorry for the low quality pictures, they were taken in a bit of a rush and also without the proper equipment (phone).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


First build, really?

There's a bridge I need you to go jump off of...










BEEEEWTEFULL!

Thanks - T


----------



## derickwm

Ah man my first wc'd build was a mess, things have changed greatily since then.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ah man my first wc'd build was a mess, things have changed greatily since then.


Like not seeing builds to completion? lol I kid I kid. In all seriousness though, I miss that orange STH10 build you had going. What ever happened to that thing?


----------



## derickwm

Still going









I was just out of the country for pretty much all of 2013 and I'm still traveling. I'm actually on a bus right now and still got a solid 24 hours of flying and airport layovers ahead of me









It'll be back in business (the log too) starting in January 2014


----------



## morencyam

Yeah, I remember when you left. That's essentially when I unsubed from the build log since it pretty much turned into a lounge at that point. I'll have to check back in on it


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Any have experience with EK HD fittings/tubing yet? Still thinking on which brand to go with for acrylic...


----------



## Ice Reign

I can't speak for the fittings, but I used the tubing in my build. Since I haven't used any other brands I can't compare, but if I were doing another loop or adding more runs, I would be using it again.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> did someone say radiators


Thanks for posting this pic stren since i had a question about the CL side rad bracket mount







. Does the CL door close w/ a bank of fans installed on the outside of the side-mounted rad bracket? i have one for my incoming TH10 to mount in the psu area hoping with p/p on a 45mm thick rad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> here was my first watercooling setup minus the actual PC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bonneville heatercore w/ Sunon fans?
> 
> Watercooling back in the day definitely was different.
> 
> I changed my coolant in my Lian Li to a non-pastel last night. I can definitely say I like it a hell of a lot more.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-18-4.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-22-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-20-3.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Such a lovely loop in a unpainted case that looks like something chewed the mobo tray.

I am disappoint Lowfat


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Such a lovely loop in a unpainted case that looks like something chewed the mobo tray.
> 
> I am disappoint Lowfat


It is a WIP. I'll finish it one of these years.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well now that I have my PS4 I guess I can start gutting mine to prep for the blocks and all


----------



## LiquidHaus

lowfat wow. such blue. much clarity.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Such a lovely loop in a unpainted case that looks like something chewed the mobo tray.
> 
> I am disappoint Lowfat


Yeah what happened to that poor mobo tray? Looks good however, you need start finishig that bad boy.


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

I like the bare metal look on the inside. Gives it a cold industrial feel.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> Yeah what happened to that poor mobo tray? Looks good however, you need start finishig that bad boy.


The holes were drilled for cable management used on the backside of the motherboard tray. This case has seen 3 dfferent motherboards and many different videocard configurations. So some of the holes I tapped for the first and second revision are no longer being used and I had to tap new ones. And many holes are tapped for future modifications. If you think the front side is bad you should see all the holes I've tapped on the backside. But don't worry, when I actually finish it off none of that will be visible.









And if I built any faster I wouldn't be satisfied w/ it. Since I take such a long time I am able to think of ways of improving it.


----------



## Jorvin

here is some pics of my in progress prodigy m build








http://s827.photobucket.com/user/jorvin92/media/IMG_1445_zps2dfba6c6.jpg.html http://s827.photobucket.com/user/jorvin92/media/IMG_1463_zpsd7429dd7.jpg.html
http://s827.photobucket.com/user/jorvin92/media/IMG_1464_zpsf0962c2f.jpg.html


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is a WIP. I'll finish it one of these years.


Nonetheless, awesome runs with the acrylic tubing and the cable management is just outstanding!


----------



## LiquidHaus

some mockup from the latest update in my build log


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> some mockup from the latest update in my build log


That front panel looks really good.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> That front panel looks really good.


Ooops! I asked the wrong person.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> some mockup from the latest update in my build log
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Is that stainless steel or polished aluminum? Did you make the front panel yourself?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> That front panel looks really good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice! Is that stainless steel or polished aluminum? Did you make the front panel yourself?


Thanks guys. It's actually bare aluminum. And yes I did. I do not plan on leaving it bare though. It will be painted black to match the rest of the case.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Thanks guys. It's actually bare aluminum. And yes I did. I do not plan on leaving it bare though. It will be painted black to match the rest of the case.


You've done quite well with this. Will you be mounting a fan filter to the backside of the front panel?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You've done quite well with this. Will you be mounting a fan filter to the backside of the front panel?


Thank you that is much appreciated. Yeah I'm still a bit undecided on the grill/filter design I want mounted to it though. Most dual 120mm grills have a separator or cross section through the main design, that would normally go between each 120mm fan but that isn't exactly what I want.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Thank you that is much appreciated. Yeah I'm still a bit undecided on the grill/filter design I want mounted to it though. Most dual 120mm grills have a separator or cross section through the main design, that would normally go between each 120mm fan but that isn't exactly what I want.


Seeing that you're fairly innovative, you could always buy a sheet of mesh grill and fabricate a filter thus eliminating the cross sections seen in stock filters.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> some mockup from the latest update in my build log
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Viewable front fans are iffy but that looks pretty good.


----------



## Pimphare

Hey guys, I need some expertise on buying some ram for my system. My rig is in my sig. The specifications for an I5 3570k says ddr3 1333-1600 Mhz, but can I use something higher. I mean would the chip just down clock the ram frequency or is there a way to make it use a higher frequency? Also, what is the difference between DIMM and UDIMM? Can I use UDIMM with my MSI Z77 Mpower motherboard?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some expertise on buying some ram for my system. My rig is in my sig. The specifications for an I5 3570k says ddr3 1333-1600 Mhz, but can I use something higher. I mean would the chip just down clock the ram frequency or is there a way to make it use a higher frequency? Also, what is the difference between DIMM and UDIMM? Can I use UDIMM with my MSI Z77 Mpower motherboard?


Yes its called overclocking, and it all comes down to what your memory controller on the cpu can handle.. At least for the 2600k the ram automatically goes down to 1333 mhz if you dont change the bios settings so i belive you got to do that anyways









Dont qoute me but i think udimm is the slimmer sticks meant for laptop/notebook, dimm and normal ddr3 is what youre looking for

And btw


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Yes its called overclocking, and it all comes down to what your memory controller on the cpu can handle.. At least for the 2600k the ram automatically goes down to 1333 mhz if you dont change the bios settings so i belive you got to do that anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont qoute me but i think udimm is the slimmer sticks meant for laptop/notebook, dimm and normal ddr3 is what youre looking for
> 
> And btw


Thanks! I know it's off topic, but I couldn't find a good answer anywhere else.


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> First build, really?
> 
> There's a bridge I need you to go jump off of...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BEEEEWTEFULL!
> 
> Thanks - T


Haha. Thanks! It was my first water loop build, but all of the information from all of the knowledgeable people that post here made it much easier. I was very frustrated with the hard acrylic, but it just took some practice.

The only issue I am having now is with the rad fans not being controlled VIA PWM. There is something wrong with the splitter board I think.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> here is some pics of my in progress prodigy m build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s827.photobucket.com/user/jorvin92/media/IMG_1445_zps2dfba6c6.jpg.html http://s827.photobucket.com/user/jorvin92/media/IMG_1463_zpsd7429dd7.jpg.html
> 
> 
> http://s827.photobucket.com/user/jorvin92/media/IMG_1464_zpsf0962c2f.jpg.html


This looks awesome!


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Thanks! I know it's off topic, but I couldn't find a good answer anywhere else.


Haha, hope it did clarify something


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Thank you that is much appreciated. Yeah I'm still a bit undecided on the grill/filter design I want mounted to it though. Most dual 120mm grills have a separator or cross section through the main design, that would normally go between each 120mm fan but that isn't exactly what I want.


Have you looked at the demciflex filters? Very high quality and simplistic design.


----------



## wermad

Got my roll of Adv. white. Id seems a tad too narrow. Almost gotta jam in my Enzotechs (3/8x5/8). Od is suprisingly slightly thinner vs the Adv. clear and atomic green i also have. So its not a pita to run the ring but the barb portion is tougher to fit on







.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Yes its called overclocking, and it all comes down to what your memory controller on the cpu can handle.. At least for the 2600k the ram automatically goes down to 1333 mhz if you dont change the bios settings so i belive you got to do that anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont qoute me but i think udimm is the slimmer sticks meant for laptop/notebook, dimm and normal ddr3 is what youre looking for
> 
> And btw


sodimm is for laptops udimm is the normal desktop ram.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Have you looked at the demciflex filters? Very high quality and simplistic design.


Interesting, thanks for the tip. If they weren't so flimsy over long distances I might have just ran that. But I'd probably run that underneath a more rigid grill or mesh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got my roll of Adv. white. Id seems a tad too narrow. Almost gotta jam in my Enzotechs (3/8x5/8). Od is suprisingly slightly thinner vs the Adv. clear and atomic green i also have. So its not a pita to run the ring but the barb portion is tougher to fit on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That's how most of the advanced stuff is. I've messed with 3 10ft rolls of it all bought separately at different locations and they're all a bit tight on the inside diameter and bit bigger on the outside diameter.

I have the same fittings as well lol Enzotech 3/8" ID 5/8" OD as well as a few Bitspower compressions, same size. And they do the same thing. I dont mind it though, just more peace of mind knowing they reallyyyy wont leak.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

The 7/16 Primochill Advanced stuff being tight on the inside is great if you use 1/2 barbs


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got my roll of Adv. white. Id seems a tad too narrow. Almost gotta jam in my Enzotechs (3/8x5/8). Od is suprisingly slightly thinner vs the Adv. clear and atomic green i also have. So its not a pita to run the ring but the barb portion is tougher to fit on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The alphacool 16/10 compression fittings I got don't do up completely on XSPC FLX Tubing 3/8ID 5/8OD







If you do the maths 3/8-5/8 is actually slightly smaller, internally and externally. So do I change the fittings or the tubing ? I like the look of the copper.

Has anyone had experience with Coolgate rads? Are they decent build and performance etc.?


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc*
> 
> well i was going to say don't let it in the prebuilt kit people... but guess that won't work lol.
> 
> Specs:
> 
> Swiftech MCP655-b
> 
> Swiftech MCP655
> 
> Swiftech MCR320
> 
> Swiftech MCR320
> 
> Swiftech MCR320
> 
> Swiftech MCW60
> 
> Swiftech MicroRes v2
> 
> Dtek Fuzion V2 (universal mount with 775 backplate)
> 
> 18x High Speed Yate loons.


Ohh my god thats what i call watercooling, nice rig!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got my roll of Adv. white. Id seems a tad too narrow. Almost gotta jam in my Enzotechs (3/8x5/8). Od is suprisingly slightly thinner vs the Adv. clear and atomic green i also have. So its not a pita to run the ring but the barb portion is tougher to fit on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, it's a bit of a snuggie... I am experiencing the same with my 3/8x1/2 in Sparkle Orange!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Interesting, thanks for the tip. If they weren't so flimsy over long distances I might have just ran that. But I'd probably run that underneath a more rigid grill or mesh.
> That's how most of the advanced stuff is. I've messed with 3 10ft rolls of it all bought separately at different locations and they're all a bit tight on the inside diameter and bit bigger on the outside diameter.
> 
> I have the same fittings as well lol Enzotech 3/8" ID 5/8" OD as well as a few Bitspower compressions, same size. And they do the same thing. I dont mind it though, just more peace of mind knowing they reallyyyy wont leak.


The one good thing!









Thanks - T


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> This looks awesome!


Thanks


----------



## borax

Hey guys new to the thread I just had a question which I'm sure someone would be able to help me with.







im planning on getting a gigabyte g1 sniper 5 mobo next week.. I'm going to be doing a custom watercooling loop comprised of a res,2 rads, 1 pump and primochill rigid acrylic tubing. Now I will be cooling the mosfets from the start. Only the ones that come on the board to start with. The next question is, will I be able to attach the rigid tubing to the 3/8 built in barbs or not? I wanted to know how I secure the tubing and what sort of fitting I could use to do so.. Thanks guys


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hey guys new to the thread I just had a question which I'm sure someone would be able to help me with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im planning on getting a gigabyte g1 sniper 5 mobo next week.. I'm going to be doing a custom watercooling loop comprised of a res,2 rads, 1 pump and primochill rigid acrylic tubing. Now I will be cooling the mosfets from the start. Only the ones that come on the board to start with. The next question is, will I be able to attach the rigid tubing to the 3/8 built in barbs or not? I wanted to know how I secure the tubing and what sort of fitting I could use to do so.. Thanks guys


In looking at that board I really don't think there will be an easy way to adapt the integrated barbs to work with acrylic tubing. I'm sure someone will tell me if I'm wrong about that, but from looking at pictures of the board I really don't see a straight forward way to do that.


----------



## derickwm

No you will not. You use primochill's ghost fittings with their acrylic tubing.


----------



## borax

So there is no way I can make use of cooling the standard mosfets blocks using primochill acrylic tubing? If not is there an eta of when I would be able to purchase the ex full cover blocks for the sniper 5? The other thing is that the original barbs that come with the mobo are 3/8 and the I'd of the primochill tubing is also 3/8 would that not directly fit over the barbs? Not sure if that would be secure enough.. the ghost fittings screw directly into a g1/4?Apologies for my stupidity if I'm asking silly questions:$


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hey guys new to the thread I just had a question which I'm sure someone would be able to help me with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im planning on getting a gigabyte g1 sniper 5 mobo next week.. I'm going to be doing a custom watercooling loop comprised of a res,2 rads, 1 pump and primochill rigid acrylic tubing. Now I will be cooling the mosfets from the start. Only the ones that come on the board to start with. The next question is, will I be able to attach the rigid tubing to the 3/8 built in barbs or not? I wanted to know how I secure the tubing and what sort of fitting I could use to do so.. Thanks guys


I have the board and no, unless you run a soft line to then attach to the built in barbs you will not be able to run rigid tubing in that part of the loop. Those barbs do not have any threading to install different fittings.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> So there is no way I can make use of cooling the standard mosfets blocks using primochill acrylic tubing? If not is there an eta of when I would be able to purchase the ex full cover blocks for the sniper 5? The other thing is that the original barbs that come with the mobo are 3/8 and the I'd of the primochill tubing is also 3/8 would that not directly fit over the barbs? Not sure if that would be secure enough.. the ghost fittings screw directly into a g1/4?Apologies for my stupidity if I'm asking silly questions:$


Our Sniper 5 full board block is available and can be used with primochill's hard tubing/ghost fittings. The hard tubing will not fit with barbs, you must use the ghost fittings that require G1/4 threads.


----------



## borax

Right I see and I guess it wouldn't be a good idea to run both rigid and soft in the loop?


----------



## borax

I see and yours meaning EK correct? Do you know if there available in the UK? Overclockers.co.uk have them on pre order with no eta! Just want to get going ASAP


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Right I see and I guess it wouldn't be a good idea to run both rigid and soft in the loop?


I've never seen or heard of a reason not to, however I'm not a certifiable authority.

Mainly it's down to looks. Some people want the turns and twists (and ease of use) of tubing, and some want acrylic / metal.

If there's a classy way to mesh the two and hide it well, it's possible that you could pull off quite the _coup de gras_ on this one!

Thanks - T


----------



## Anoxy

Man, Aquatuning is the best. Dat light-speed shipping from germany.

Also, I just found an RX360 on craigslist for $55. For use with my AP-15s, is that as good a choice as the UT60 360mm?


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Man, Aquatuning is the best. Dat light-speed shipping from germany.
> 
> Also, I just found an RX360 on craigslist for $55. For use with my AP-15s, is that as good a choice as the UT60 360mm?


You had it shipped at .000365 seconds to your house? Impressive.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Man, Aquatuning is the best. Dat light-speed shipping from germany.
> 
> Also, I just found an RX360 on craigslist for $55. For use with my AP-15s, is that as good a choice as the UT60 360mm?


You may see a couple degree improvement with the UT60, but for that price, I'd go for the RX360


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Bonneville heatercore w/ Sunon fans?
> 
> Watercooling back in the day definitely was different.
> 
> I changed my coolant in my Lian Li to a non-pastel last night. I can definitely say I like it a hell of a lot more.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-18-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-22-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-20-3.jpg.html


*.* i agree ! i love it ! love the transparency of clear liquids. pastel is nice but dont have that clear crystal effect that transparent liquids have *.* what you change it to ? brand


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> So there is no way I can make use of cooling the standard mosfets blocks using primochill acrylic tubing? If not is there an eta of when I would be able to purchase the ex full cover blocks for the sniper 5? The other thing is that the original barbs that come with the mobo are 3/8 and the I'd of the primochill tubing is also 3/8 would that not directly fit over the barbs? Not sure if that would be secure enough.. the ghost fittings screw directly into a g1/4?Apologies for my stupidity if I'm asking silly questions:$


Any board block with 1/4" threads will work. As long as you can mount the fittings,you can use the hardline.

Barbs,in any form,will not work.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> *.* i agree ! i love it ! love the transparency of clear liquids. pastel is nice but dont have that clear crystal effect that transparent liquids have *.* what you change it to ? brand


It is a mixture of Mayhems deep blue and purple.


----------



## randomnerd865

Alright guys, I will be watercooling my 600t in the near future. I'm sure if many of you are familiar with that particular case, but a 360mm rad can be modded into the roof. It requires quite a bit of extra work and hacking away at the case. My question is: could I get roughly the same amount of cooling capacity by just sticking a 120mm rad at the back exhaust and a 240mm in the roof?


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Alright guys, I will be watercooling my 600t in the near future. I'm sure if many of you are familiar with that particular case, but a 360mm rad can be modded into the roof. It requires quite a bit of extra work and hacking away at the case. My question is: could I get roughly the same amount of cooling capacity by just sticking a 120mm rad at the back exhaust and a 240mm in the roof?


Depends on the loop, length of the loop, pump, and tubing diameter. You might see benefits since it's more distance the water has to cool or could be the oposite by not having short enough distance.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> Depends on the loop, length of the loop, pump, and tubing diameter. You might see benefits since it's more distance the water has to cool or could be the oposite by not having short enough distance.


It will be the XSPC raystorm 240 kit. and a cpu only loop.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> It will be the XSPC raystorm 240 kit. and a cpu only loop.


How thick is the rad?
How thick are you going for on the 120mm exhaust?


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> How thick is the rad?
> How thick are you going for on the 120mm exhaust?


Probably the thickest I could get would be the standard 30mm and push on the 120mm and pull only on the 240mm

Edit: If I modded to do the 360mm rad in the roof in would be all pull.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Probably the thickest I could get would be the standard 30mm and push on the 120mm and pull only on the 240mm
> 
> Edit: If I modded to do the 360mm rad in the roof in would be all pull.


Would the 240 be a push pull?
If you have them all at 30mm a 360 or 240+120 wouldn't see more than a 4c difference. If you have one in push/pull on the 240mm, and pull or push on the 120 you could possibly see a decrease in temps.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> Would the 240 be a push pull?
> If you have them all at 30mm a 360 or 240+120 wouldn't see more than a 4c difference. If you have one in push/pull on the 240mm, and pull or push on the 120 you could possibly see a decrease in temps.


The 240 would be pull only. The case just doesnt have the room for push pull sadly.


----------



## GhostDog99

A little update to my snow shadow rig

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-1.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mh...mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-2.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mh...mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-3.jpg.html


----------



## borax

Thanks guys I will b purchasing the EK blocks tonight any idea how long they will take to come to mainland UK?. One other question, to start with I will not be adding a gpu to the loop only a cpu block and the EK mosfet block.. This will be in conjunction with 2 480mm rads ... One monsta and another less prudent rad at the top.. along with a tube res and aquacomputer pump. Would this be sufficient for when I add the gpu into the loop? And any ideas on possible loop setups (ie order of the loop etc) .

Thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> A little update to my snow shadow rig
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mh...mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mh...mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-3.jpg.html


Clean,I like


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> The 240 would be pull only. The case just doesnt have the room for push pull sadly.


Probably wouldn't see too much change in temps to be honest, I'd google 240 +120mm vs 360mm and see what people say.


----------



## brandon6199

Anyone know where I can find Ira-K's watercooling PDF?

Thanks in advance


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find Ira-K's watercooling PDF?
> 
> Thanks in advance


http://www.overclock.net/t/438611/ira-ks-wc-pdf-guide

Here you go


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> Probably wouldn't see too much change in temps to be honest, I'd google 240 +120mm vs 360mm and see what people say.


i would go 200mm in both the top and front


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i would go 200mm in both the top and front


That'd be a good alternative, however I don't know if that's what he's going for.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> A little update to my snow shadow rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mh...mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mh...mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-3.jpg.html


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> That'd be a good alternative, however I don't know if that's what he's going for.


Yeah, the 200mm rads are still a little pricey vs. the XSPC kit I can get. Also I dont like how limited you are with the 200mm rads just as far as selling them or moving them to a new rig.


----------



## Tomalak

hmm what do you guys think on *EK 360 PE* (38mm, 19FPI split fin) vs *EK 360 XTX* (64mm, 11FPI)?

For cooling a 4930k (with OC), using three GT AP14s?

PE uses less space (26mm thinner, so looks better imo) and is 30EUR cheaper. XTX is obviously better, but would one lose a lot of performance by going with the PE?

I looked at Martin's review, but I don't know where to place the PE at.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> hmm what do you guys think on *EK 360 PE* (38mm, 19FPI split fin) vs *EK 360 XTX* (64mm, 11FPI)?
> 
> For cooling a 4930k (with OC), using three GT AP14s?
> 
> PE uses less space (26mm thinner so looks better imo) and is 30EUR cheaper.


It's better for tighter rige, however the thicker rad with les fpi can be way quieter and get the same/better preformance without the noise.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Clean,I like


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*


Thanks guys


----------



## Tomalak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> It's better for tighter rige, however the thicker rad with les fpi can be way quieter and get the same/better preformance without the noise.


Well I'll be using GT AP 14s anyway at full speed, I don't think they are loud. So I guess the noise should be the same, unless the actual higher FPI can add to noise (since air faces more restriction).

I guess it's better to go with XTX, even though PE is so sleek and nice looking.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> hmm what do you guys think on *EK 360 PE* (38mm, 19FPI split fin) vs *EK 360 XTX* (64mm, 11FPI)?
> 
> For cooling a 4930k (with OC), using three GT AP14s?
> 
> PE uses less space (26mm thinner, so looks better imo) and is 30EUR cheaper. XTX is obviously better, but would one lose a lot of performance by going with the PE?
> 
> I looked at Martin's review, but I don't know where to place the PE at.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> It's better for tighter rige, however the thicker rad with les fpi can be way quieter and get the same/better preformance without the noise.


I completely agree with what davidelite10 said, except for the fact that a 360PE should give you enough room to run Push/Pull with 6 GT AP-14's. I could be off on this, but i'd imagine a PE in Push/Pull would have better potential than an XTX in Push


----------



## Tomalak

thx guys.

I think it will be xtx after all!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> Probably wouldn't see too much change in temps to be honest, I'd google 240 +120mm vs 360mm and see what people say.


I'm pretty sure that the only difference between 240 + 120 vs 360 would be restriction. Since they have the same cooling surface, and restriction in rads is minimal. There should be no noticeable difference between the 2 options at all


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> thx guys.
> 
> I think it will be xtx after all!


Keep in mind that a PE with push/pull would also allow you to run your fans at low speeds.

Edit: sorry for the b2b post guys. Was an accident








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> A little update to my snow shadow rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/Mobile Uploads/image-1.jpg.html


Looks incredible. Great Pic


----------



## phillyd

I am of the opinion that pastels look best with clear tubing, where transparents look best with acrylic hard tubing.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I am of the opinion that pastels look best with clear tubing, where transparents look best with acrylic hard tubing.


Yeah that seems to be the prevailing opinion nowadays from alot of other posts i read. I have to agree too. I put White Pastel in its own category though. If you're going with color, i think transparent looks better than pastel in acrylic tubing. White Pastel has it's own look though (Well not it's own cuz it shares that look with Ice Dragon







)


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that the only difference between 240 + 120 vs 360 would be restriction. Since they have the same cooling surface, and restriction in rads is minimal. There should be no noticeable difference between the 2 options at all


This was my thoughts exactly, I just wanted to get a few other opinions on it. Technically speaking there should be almost no difference in cooling surface so temps should be similar.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

I'd say that if we could get larger ID acrylic, the pastels would look just as good imo. A major part of the look of Pastel is how they make your tubing look "filled" (that's how I'd describe it). With such small ID tubing for Acrylic, it just doesn't look as "full".


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah that seems to be the prevailing opinion nowadays from alot of other posts i read. I have to agree too. I put White Pastel in its own category though. If you're going with color, i think transparent looks better than pastel in acrylic tubing. White Pastel has it's own look though (Well not it's own cuz it shares that look with Ice Dragon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


it is Ice Dragon not white pastel


----------



## kpoeticg

I wouldn't expect to see any difference whatsoever if you're comparing the same model rads. Like for instance a UT60 120 + UT60 240 vs UT60 360. I could be slightly off, but technically speaking, the cooling should be identical. Unless you're running an incredibly weak pump with a high restriction loop (which is unlikely). It should be the same thing....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I'd say that if we could get larger ID acrylic, the pastels would look just as good imo. A major part of the look of Pastel is how they make your tubing look "filled" (that's how I'd describe it). With such small ID tubing for Acrylic, it just doesn't look as "full".


I don't think it has as much to do with the Pastel as it does with the look of acrylic tubing. I don't think Pastel looks "Bad" in acrylic. I just think if you're going with color, using a transparent coolant kinda adds something to the look of the acrylic. Or the Acrylic Tubing adds something to the look of the Transparent Cooling. Either way...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> it is Ice Dragon not white pastel










Glad i added that part about the Ice Dragon








Either way man, I think you're rig looks amazing


----------



## borax

Hi guys sorry to be a nuisance, i'm going to get the g1 sniper 5 with full EK coverage.. I will have two rads one monsta 420 and one other 420 on the top. A tube res and a aquacomputer 12v pump with acrylic tubing. How would I go about creating the loop.. as in the order of components to be cooled.

Thanks!


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hi guys sorry to be a nuisance, i'm going to get the g1 sniper 5 with full EK coverage.. I will have two rads one monsta 420 and one other 420 on the top. A tube res and a aquacomputer 12v pump with acrylic tubing. How would I go about creating the loop.. as in the order of components to be cooled.
> 
> Thanks!


Res > Pump > what ever looks best > res


----------



## borax

Thanks for the advice. Is there a distinct advantage in having a alphacool monsta to a normal size radiator?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Res > Pump > what ever looks best > res


^^ What he said =)
As long as you put your res b4 your pump, the rest is just aesthetics. All the components temps balance each other out as the coolant loops around
The reason you need to put your res b4 your pump is cuz if your pump runs dry, it will almost definitely cause permanent damage. Even if it's only quickly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. Is there a distinct advantage in having a alphacool monsta to a normal size radiator?


More cooling surface. But honestly, if you were only able to fit a Monsta with one set of fans vs a UT60 with 2 sets of fans, you'll get better cooling with the UT60 in Push/Pull


----------



## borax

Thanks mate







sounds good.. have been looking at the EK pump/res combos cause of the ease of use.. In terms of coolant im thinking to go with the mayhems uv green swing as the theme shall be green!

I have a phanteks enthoo primo so was planning on placing the monsta at the bottom in push/pull and a slimmer rad at the top. With this configuration would I be ok in the future to add 2 gpu's to the loop without the need of extra bits and bobs. Want the transition to be as easy as possible!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I wouldn't expect to see any difference whatsoever if you're comparing the same model rads. Like for instance a UT60 120 + UT60 240 vs UT60 360. I could be slightly off, but technically speaking, the cooling should be identical. Unless you're running an incredibly weak pump with a high restriction loop (which is unlikely). It should be the same thing....
> I don't think it has as much to do with the Pastel as it does with the look of acrylic tubing. I don't think Pastel looks "Bad" in acrylic. I just think if you're going with color, using a transparent coolant kinda adds something to the look of the acrylic. Or the Acrylic Tubing adds something to the look of the Transparent Cooling. Either way...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad i added that part about the Ice Dragon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either way man, I think you're rig looks amazing


thanks mate









and I think so too but my other reed has Transparent Rad coolant
so for this rig I wanted something deferent
and after using Acrylic I will never use regular Tubing


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sounds good.. have been looking at the EK pump/res combos cause of the ease of use.. In terms of coolant im thinking to go with the mayhems uv green swing as the theme shall be green!
> 
> I have a phanteks enthoo primo so was planning on placing the monsta at the bottom in push/pull and a slimmer rad at the top. With this configuration would I be ok in the future to add 2 gpu's to the loop without the need of extra bits and bobs. Want the transition to be as easy as possible!


2 x 420's will definitely be sufficient to cool 2 GPU's, CPU, & Mobo, with room to spare for additions in the future if you need it. I love that case too. If i wasn't in the middle of a build when it launched, i probly woulda grabbed one for myself. You should check out the Phanteks Enthoo Primo Owner's Club here on OCN. You'll definitely be able to visualize better what kind of rad space your workin with. A bunch of people already have loops put together in it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I think so too but my other reed has Transparent Rad coolant
> so for this rig I wanted something deferent
> and after using Acrylic I will never use regular Tubing


NP =)

That's why i said White Pastel/Ice Dragon is kind of in its own category. There really isn't a transparent equivalent of it. And even if there was, it wouldn't look as good








I think White Pastel/Ice Dragon looks great in alot of different situations.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I am of the opinion that pastels look best with clear tubing, where transparents look best with acrylic hard tubing.


Kinda off topic but just thought I should share. I just made an order for some watercooling parts and literally 20min later I realized I forgot a plug fitting. I ran to the phone to call performance pcs to adjust my order to include a $3 item and they told me it was already out for shipping. You guys are ridiculously quick! Still bummed I couldnt get the plug though.

Does anyone have a silver shiny bitpower plug they can sell me? Im even willing to trade it for a brand new bitspower compression fitting (1/2" Id - 3/4" OD)


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/438611/ira-ks-wc-pdf-guide
> 
> Here you go


Thank you. However, that link does not seem to be working for me. Can anyone download it and upload it somewhere and PM it to me please?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thank you. However, that link does not seem to be working for me. Can anyone download it and upload it somewhere and PM it to me please?


The link in the OP's dead. If you go the the 3rd/last page of the thread @MiiX posted another link as an ATTACHMENT


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Kinda off topic but just thought I should share. I just made an order for some watercooling parts and literally 20min later I realized I forgot a plug fitting. I ran to the phone to call performance pcs to adjust my order to include a $3 item and they told me it was already out for shipping. You guys are ridiculously quick! Still bummed I couldnt get the plug though.
> 
> Does anyone have a silver shiny bitpower plug they can sell me? Im even willing to trade it for a brand new bitspower compression fitting (1/2" Id - 3/4" OD)


I'm pretty sure I have one that came with my bitspower res that I won't be using. Pm me your address and I can just stick it in a regular stamped envelope and drop it in the mailbox tomorrow


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I have one that came with my bitspower res that I won't be using. Pm me your address and I can just stick it in a regular stamped envelope and drop it in the mailbox tomorrow


Wow! Thanks so much! Pmed


----------



## smoke420

Does anyone know if the resistors that come with the corsair fans to reduce speed
can handle 2 fans on a splitter


----------



## LiquidHaus

Prototype 5.25" cage, made with acrylic. Going with aluminum for the final version. Proof of concept.


----------



## smoke420

I love those fans


----------



## Spawn-Inc

Thanks, it's still going strong today, which is sad because i'm overdue for a computer upgrade... but playing with guns, making ammo and casting bullets is my current hobby. i've completely lost track of computers


----------



## azcrazy

Wow Spawn I remember the pic in your profile like if it was yesterday , it was epic back then!!!!!!!! so many memories














:thumb:


----------



## wermad

New build
















Still a wip and missing one gpu (rma)







.


----------



## fast_fate

Looking slick !!!
Like the GPU cable routing holes








I'll be doing the same


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Looking slick !!!
> Like the GPU cable routing holes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be doing the same


Thank you









One of them is slightly off due to the stepping drill bit going off-set a bit. I use a larger bit and I should have bored a larger pilot hole fallowing the first one. It looks slick imho and makes use of the otherwise wasted space of the hp-atx mb tray.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a wip and missing one gpu (rma)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Beautiful, any thoughts on painting on the case?


----------



## coolmiester

Revisiting an old friend with a few upgrades including a couple of EVGA 680 Hydro Copper, a Supernova 1500w PSU and ditched the three fan controllers in favour of a 6" touch screen.

Also Primochill Advanced LRT 7/16" Hose and XSPC EC6 Blood Red coolant and a couple of Monsoon Drive Bay Reservoirs









I attempted a little time lapse thing which was meant to be of hosing and filling this thing up but unfortunately i ran out of hose half way through













However a couple of days later i got a repeat order of hose and i'm now currently bleeding both loops


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Revisiting an old friend with a few upgrades including a couple of EVGA 680 Hydro Copper, a Supernova 1500w PSU and ditched the three fan controllers in favour of a 6" touch screen.
> 
> Also Primochill Advanced LRT 7/16" Hose and XSPC EC6 Blood Red coolant and a couple of Monsoon Drive Bay Reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attempted a little time lapse thing which was meant to be of hosing and filling this thing up but unfortunately i ran out of hose half way through
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However a couple of days later i got a repeat order of hose and i'm now currently bleeding both loops


That vicious bitcoin miner/folder.


----------



## c3LaL35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Revisiting an old friend with a few upgrades including a couple of EVGA 680 Hydro Copper, a Supernova 1500w PSU and ditched the three fan controllers in favour of a 6" touch screen.
> 
> Also Primochill Advanced LRT 7/16" Hose and XSPC EC6 Blood Red coolant and a couple of Monsoon Drive Bay Reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attempted a little time lapse thing which was meant to be of hosing and filling this thing up but unfortunately i ran out of hose half way through
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However a couple of days later i got a repeat order of hose and i'm now currently bleeding both loops


That's great


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> Beautiful, any thoughts on painting on the case?


Nah, its cool as is. Its actually an slight earlier version in gloss white. Their newer ones come in matte white. I have some new accessories I bought from them and the gloss looks much better then the matte. Was going to squirt it satin black but I don't have the time or skill to do so







.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Nice rigs. Guys can you please only quote one picture?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Nice rigs. Guys can you please only quote one picture?


Or at _least_ use spoilers, for the love of all that's holy......

Thanks - T


----------



## PCModderMike

For the love of spoilers!









Looking good wermad!


----------



## Thrasher1016

You know what's funny, and I saw Wermad doing it in the front of the case...

Say if you have a 120.4 mount, but only a 120.2 radiator, you put a fan all by it's lonesome above and below, then put the radiator in the middle, and let the other fans act as airflow only! That's a really great idea, especially if you're recycling old radiators or something, and don't wanna buy new ones to fit perfectly.

Thanks - T


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Revisiting an old friend with a few upgrades including a couple of EVGA 680 Hydro Copper, a Supernova 1500w PSU and ditched the three fan controllers in favour of a 6" touch screen.
> 
> Also Primochill Advanced LRT 7/16" Hose and XSPC EC6 Blood Red coolant and a couple of Monsoon Drive Bay Reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attempted a little time lapse thing which was meant to be of hosing and filling this thing up but unfortunately i ran out of hose half way through
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However a couple of days later i got a repeat order of hose and i'm now currently bleeding both loops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Porn then and Porn now,great stuff Paul..One of my favorite rigs of all time is getting a new party dress!!

If anyone wondered where I got my love of my SR2 then this rig is it.


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Porn then and Porn now,great stuff Paul..One of my favorite rigs of all time is getting a new party dress!!
> 
> If anyone wondered where I got my love of my SR2 then this rig is it.


Cheers Neg and yeah, the SR-2 is still one of my all time favourite boards..........and you didn't do a bad job with yours either


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a wip and missing one gpu (rma)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


so much !

Are you gonna fill the psu side with drives or will it also see some wc action?


----------



## morencyam

Saw pictures of the same two rigs multiple times. Come on guys, use spoilers or something. I agree that they are both awesome builds, but quoting all the pictures isn't necessary.
@coolmiester - What case is that?

@wermad - Didn't take you long to get everything installed lol how long before you switch out cases again?


----------



## Thrasher1016

So I think I'm going to go nuts, and now I will have to sell another case and my not-eve-set-up-yet Wet bench, but this is my idea...



Spoiler: Warning: Too soon?







I'm not sure yet, but I like the LDs!

Thanks - T


----------



## lowfat

I don't see why the LC-V7 doesn't get more love. I'd much rather have it than the V8 or pretty much any other case.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't see why the LC-V7 doesn't get more love. I'd much rather have it than the V8 or pretty much any other case.


I can get the V8 powdercoated from the factory in at least half the color I want, so that's part of it!

Thanks - T


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Saw pictures of the same two rigs multiple times. Come on guys, use spoilers or something. I agree that they are both awesome builds, but quoting all the pictures isn't necessary.
> *@coolmiester - What case is that?*
> 
> @wermad - Didn't take you long to get everything installed lol how long before you switch out cases again?


Its a Coolermaster ATCs 840.....well two actually, i chopped one in half to make the top rad box


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Its a Coolermaster ATCs 840.....well two actually, i chopped one in half to make the top rad box


Thought it looked familiar. My old roommate has that case too. Real nice case with tons of room. I'm still trying to convince him to get a loop set up. Great looking build too by the way


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Saw pictures of the same two rigs multiple times. Come on guys, use spoilers or something. I agree that they are both awesome builds, but quoting all the pictures isn't necessary.
> @coolmiester - *What case is that?
> *
> @wermad - Didn't take you long to get everything installed lol how long before you switch out cases again?


It was a trusty CM 840 but has been heavily modded with a top rad bay.

Also,to the newer members,please spoiler quoted pics,no one wants to wade thru endless pics of the same rig.

Future transgressions will just be reported.

Thanks!


----------



## Fonne

Dont think this has been posted yet ?

- *Koolance VID-AR290X*
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21972/ex-blc-1575/Koolance_VID-AR290X_Radeon_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_No_Fittings.html







Think its pretty nice


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SortOfGrim*
> 
> so much !
> 
> Are you gonna fill the psu side with drives or will it also see some wc action?


Working on it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> @wermad - Didn't take you long to get everything installed lol how long before you switch out cases again?


Tha'ts it for now







. Why i went with a CL case









CM "stacker" before CM "stacker"










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Plutonium10

Heatkiller GPU-X3 R9 290X.
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15030



This is the one I was waiting to see! Hopefully we will see some real pics soon including the acrylic version.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Its a Coolermaster ATCs 840.....well two actually, i chopped one in half to make the top rad box


IMO it was the last great Cooler Master case.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Its a Coolermaster ATCs 840.....well two actually, i chopped one in half to make the top rad box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO it was the last great Cooler Master case.
Click to expand...

Agreed,stylish and practical...before they hit them all with the plastic fantastic....


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMO it was the last great Cooler Master case.


My favorite is the Cosmos Limited Edition black.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> My favorite is the Cosmos Limited Edition black.


The Cosmos Pure. Probably my all time favourite case. Shame I was never able to snag one.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The Cosmos Pure. Probably my all time favourite case. Shame I was never able to snag one.


Yes..thats the one I am referring to. I used to have the original Cosmos and ended up powdercoating the interior black 1 week before the pure came out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> My favorite is the Cosmos Limited Edition black.
> 
> 
> 
> The Cosmos Pure. Probably my all time favourite case. Shame I was never able to snag one.
Click to expand...

I am the only one that thinks the Cosmos is ugly child......

Im in the 07 camp for all time cases.


----------



## wermad

Lian Li/ABS 695



Not the best wc but very elegant. Very understated and huge!

Tbh, I prefere the C2 over the old Cosmos. Regardless of plastics, everyone uses them, can't get around them







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That is the ONLY LL case i like,I cant stand the rest.

Lian Li,PC the inside of your cases for the love of god!


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

so i have a question. What will give me the most cooling capacity?

1 x 480 monsta in p/p + 1 x 480 60mm in p/p or
1 x 480 monsta in push + 480 38mm - 45mm in p/p + 1 x 360 - 30mm in p/p?

Obviously having more rads is better, but approximately how big of a difference would the 360 make?


----------



## coolmiester

Not exactly sure what happened but fired the system up today for the first time and left it running for about 20 mins went to restart and the PSU is showing power to the board but nothing when i click the go button.

Couldn't get it to fire up again so swapped it out with a Coolermaster 1300w SPH and all seems well apart from it not looking the part so not sure what to make of the Supernova but its due to go on show at a LAN in eight day and really wanted to run the Supernova Ultimate Power Control software on the 6" touch screen.

*EDIT:* EVGA are sending me another PSU from their Munich office so looks like it will be in there for the Multiplay i50 LAN next week









Anyway, its up and running now and starting to look a bit more like a computer.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> so i have a question. What will give me the most cooling capacity?
> 
> 1 x 480 monsta in p/p + 1 x 480 60mm in p/p or
> 1 x 480 monsta in push + 480 38mm - 45mm in p/p + 1 x 360 - 30mm in p/p?
> 
> Obviously having more rads is better, but approximately how big of a difference would the 360 make?


FYI:

ONE Monsta 480

vs

THREE Monsta 480s

components: cpu, gpu x4

Result: no difference in temps


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> so i have a question. What will give me the most cooling capacity?
> 
> 1 x 480 monsta in p/p + 1 x 480 60mm in p/p or
> 1 x 480 monsta in push + 480 38mm - 45mm in p/p + 1 x 360 - 30mm in p/p?
> 
> Obviously having more rads is better, but approximately how big of a difference would the 360 make?


Depends what kind of heatload you are trying to shift,that amount of rad will shift a lot of heat tho,easily quadfire capable.


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

The heatload is one 3930K @ 4,5Ghz and two 7970's, maybe 3 if the if it looks like it can fit.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My bet is that the number is a lot closer to $500 than $50 by the time it's ready to fill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


This lol

Knowing bitspower and their prices, it will be $10-20 a pop. Could easily rack up the cost lol.


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This lol
> 
> Knowing bitspower and their prices, it will be $10-20 a pop. Could easily rack up the cost lol.


That was one of the things I made sure I figured out before buying. It may have been a pain to potentially run out of fittings, but I'm glad I don't have $10 and $20 bills lying in my parts box.


----------



## Anoxy

Man, I'm really disappointed right now. Finally got my EK Titan SE Blocks, and when I go to install the first one, one of the "preinstalled 2.5 mm standoffs" is busted and just comes loose. I tried screwing it back into place but it looks like it just broke out of the socket


----------



## phillyd

I had that happen but It was while removing the block so the standoff was attached to the GPU.


----------



## Anoxy

I'm assuming you were getting rid of the blocks then? Or did you just leave one screw out when installing it again?

I'm not sure what to do


----------



## Anoxy

Sorry for the double post. Just in the middle of building and could use some quick help.

I was under the impression that with compression fittings, you fit the hose on and then screw the fitting back together flush....is this not the case? There is no way I'm getting that thing all the way screwed back down.

This is as far as it goes:


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Sorry for the double post. Just in the middle of building and could use some quick help.
> 
> I was under the impression that with compression fittings, you fit the hose on and then screw the fitting back together flush....is this not the case? There is no way I'm getting that thing all the way screwed back down.
> 
> This is as far as it goes:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It won't tighten all the way unless you use a wrench or something of that sort. That, however is a terrible idea because you'll be out of luck when it comes to loosening the fitting. Just torque it finger tight, and that will be plenty good enough.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Sorry for the double post. Just in the middle of building and could use some quick help.
> 
> I was under the impression that with compression fittings, you fit the hose on and then screw the fitting back together flush....is this not the case? There is no way I'm getting that thing all the way screwed back down.
> 
> This is as far as it goes:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> It won't tighten all the way unless you use a wrench or something of that sort. That, however is a terrible idea because you'll be out of luck when it comes to loosening the fitting. Just torque it finger tight, and that will be plenty good enough.


They often don't screw on all the way. Just hand tighten until it doesn't go anymore. Usually after you start leak testing the tube softens a bit and you can get another half turn or so.

Do not use any tools. If you over tighten you can crack the tube and cause leaks


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> It won't tighten all the way unless you use a wrench or something of that sort. That, however is a terrible idea because you'll be out of luck when it comes to loosening the fitting. Just torque it finger tight, and that will be plenty good enough.


^ This.

Don't over tighten it. Just use you fingers. NO need to tighten it all the way down.


----------



## Anoxy

Great, thanks guys. Ordered a few too many fittings so I made myself a little old school SLI bridge lol


----------



## LiquidHaus

Got this thing mining bitcoins right now lol


----------



## kilo 40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> The cables I sleeved myself with paracord.


that's a really great idea!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Sorry for the double post. Just in the middle of building and could use some quick help.
> 
> I was under the impression that with compression fittings, you fit the hose on and then screw the fitting back together flush....is this not the case? There is no way I'm getting that thing all the way screwed back down.
> 
> This is as far as it goes:


Primochill tube?


----------



## szeged

new planned loop for the 900d, all acrylic, let me know what you think of the layout i have so far, gonna try some new route orders in a few mins, heres the first draft though

a few things to note - this will be on a maximus vi hero, i know i got the extreme board on there, its basically the same layout, just different blocks









Yes i know i should have picked different colors, this is probably going to be hell on a lot of peoples eyes trying to figure out whats going on here. sorry









Yes i know this is probably not the most practical route ever, but in my head what im imagining, it will look super badass.


components in this loop

asus maximus vi hero mosfet block - EK nickle plexi
asus maximus vi hero south bridge block- EK nickle plexi
evga gtx 780ti classified (soon) - EK nickle plexi
i7 4770k - EK supremacy nickle plexi
16gb g skill ram - EK nickle plexi(csq polished)
bitspower 250ml tube res
xspc d5 vario pump with bispower pump top
xspc 480mm EX series radiator
xspc 480mm EX series radiator
lots of bitspower black sparkle angle fittings and c47 fittings








e22 10/12mm acrylic.

Going to try to get mostly straight runs, with as little acrylic bending as possible(saving full bending for a new loop)

let me know what you think please, looking for feedback on this loop, ways to improve, both performance and aesthetics.


----------



## VSG

lol I can totally see this being badass if the tubing is bent well.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Primochill tube?


Yes, advanced lrt. Does that not happen with other brands?
I thought about it a little more and it seems like it has to happen or else the hose would be cut off.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yes, advanced lrt. Does that not happen with other brands?
> I thought about it a little more and it seems like it has to happen or else the hose would be cut off.


To some extent yes, but from your picture it looks like another turn is in order (a bit high the cap). You can check some other fittings in a nice rubber tubing how it looks here (bottom of the second post):

http://www.overclock.net/t/1407863/wc-in-fractal-design-xl-r2

I have Ek, Swiftech, phobya and bitspower fittings. Phobya clearly go almost all the way down (the fitting) while EK, bitspower and Swiftech no. Have you checked if the lrt is all the way down in the barb? If not you might try putting it for 10 or 20 seconds in hot water so that the tube becomes more malleable.

Cheers


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yes, advanced lrt. Does that not happen with other brands?
> I thought about it a little more and it seems like it has to happen or else the hose would be cut off.


Not sure what size your tubing is but I have the same type tubing and fittings and mine goes a little further down than the picture you are showing. I am using 1/2" id - 3/4" od tubing.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> To some extent yes, but from your picture it looks like another turn is in order (a bit high the cap). You can check some other fittings in a nice rubber tubing how it looks here (bottom of the second post):
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1407863/wc-in-fractal-design-xl-r2
> 
> I have Ek, Swiftech, phobya and bitspower fittings. Phobya clearly go almost all the way down (the fitting) while EK, bitspower and Swiftech no. Have you checked if the lrt is all the way down in the barb? If not you might try putting it for 10 or 20 seconds in hot water so that the tube becomes more malleable.
> 
> Cheers


Yeah, you're right. After I took that picture I went to wrench it down a little more (with my hands) and got it to this point:



Seems much more suitable.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> new planned loop for the 900d, all acrylic, let me know what you think of the layout i have so far, gonna try some new route orders in a few mins, heres the first draft though
> 
> a few things to note - this will be on a maximus vi hero, i know i got the extreme board on there, its basically the same layout, just different blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes i know i should have picked different colors, this is probably going to be hell on a lot of peoples eyes trying to figure out whats going on here. sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes i know this is probably not the most practical route ever, but in my head what im imagining, it will look super badass.
> 
> components in this loop
> 
> asus maximus vi hero mosfet block - EK nickle plexi
> asus maximus vi hero south bridge block- EK nickle plexi
> evga gtx 780ti classified (soon) - EK nickle plexi
> i7 4770k - EK supremacy nickle plexi
> 16gb g skill ram - EK nickle plexi(csq polished)
> bitspower 250ml tube res
> xspc d5 vario pump with bispower pump top
> xspc 480mm EX series radiator
> xspc 480mm EX series radiator
> lots of bitspower black sparkle angle fittings and c47 fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> e22 10/12mm acrylic.
> 
> Going to try to get mostly straight runs, with as little acrylic bending as possible(saving full bending for a new loop)
> 
> let me know what you think please, looking for feedback on this loop, ways to improve, both performance and aesthetics.


Only 1 780 ti?


----------



## SeeThruHead

I like to use the foam that comes inside most waterblock packaging to get a really good grip on the compression part to tighten it down.


----------



## randomnerd865

I have another random question for you pros. What are the facts/opinions on running two different types of fans in push pull??


----------



## WiSK

Gardening gloves can be good too


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, you're right. After I took that picture I went to wrench it down a little more (with my hands) and got it to this point:
> 
> 
> 
> Seems much more suitable.


That looks more like :thumb:it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> I have another random question for you pros. What are the facts/opinions on running two different types of fans in push pull??


As long as the operating RPM ranges are within about 500 RPM of each other you shouldn't have any issues. According to Martin of Matinsliquidlab.com he has informed me that as long as you follow that guideline you should be fine with mixing your push/ pull fans.


----------



## Anoxy

Hmm, I was going to use the SP120L fans that came with my H100i on one of my rads. They are 2700 RPM max, whereas the AP-15s are 1850. That shouldn't be an issue if I'm plugging them into my mobo right?


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As long as the RPM ranges are within about 500 RPM of each other you shouldn't have any issues. According to Martin of Matinsliquidlab.com he has informed me that as long as you follow that guideline you should be fine with mixing your push/ pull fans.


I thought there was a trick like that, Does the different static pressures not have much affect on anything? I was planning on ussing a sp120 and a noctua fan that I've already painted white for push/pull on a 120mm rad if that helps any.
-Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## VSG

The operating RPMs should be close to each other, not the max RPMs. I am having a mix of SP120 Performance and Quiet fans and its a pretty good noise/performance balance.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hmm, I was going to use the SP120L fans that came with my H100i on one of my rads. They are 2700 RPM max, whereas the AP-15s are 1850. That shouldn't be an issue if I'm plugging them into my mobo right?


Why not put the two same fans in push-pull together? So one AP-15 pushing to another AP-15 pulling, instead of putting both on the same side of the radiator? It'll look weird having two different fans on O e side of the radiator, but depending on whether you care about the visuals that seems like it would work better.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, you're right. After I took that picture I went to wrench it down a little more (with my hands) and got it to this point:
> 
> 
> 
> Seems much more suitable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> That looks more like :thumb:it.


Yep, that looks about right.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As long as the RPM ranges are within about 500 RPM of each other you shouldn't have any issues. According to Martin of Matinsliquidlab.com he has informed me that as long as you follow that guideline you should be fine with mixing your push/ pull fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hmm, I was going to use the SP120L fans that came with my H100i on one of my rads. They are 2700 RPM max, whereas the AP-15s are 1850. That shouldn't be an issue if I'm plugging them into my mobo right?


Another piece of information that might be informative for push pull configs.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/7/

cheers


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Another piece of information that might be informative for push pull configs.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/7/
> 
> cheers


Pretty decent read, but I believe our focus is more on using mis-matched fans for push pull and not the question of shrouds.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> I have another random question for you pros. What are the facts/opinions on running two different types of fans in push pull??


I dont recommend as the weaker fan will fail before MTBF,just my opinion tho....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, was trying to locate Martin test (or post) about different fans. He recently brought the subject on the h220 thread but I remember seeing the same point made before but I was unable to locate on his page. In any case he argues that using different fans in push pull (against common forum comments) will do no harm as long as fans are not remarkably different in specs.

here is his post as Bram already call attention for:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/7640#post_21192812


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont recommend as the weaker fan will fail before MTBF,just my opinion tho....


I was of the same opinion until Martin explained otherwise.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I was of the same opinion until Martin explained otherwise.


What about noise? I would think the turbulence would cause a slight increase in noise.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, was trying to locate Martin test (or post) about different fans. He recently brought the subject on the h220 thread but I remember seeing the same point made before but I was unable to locate on his page. In any case he argues that using different fans in push pull (against common forum comments) will do no harm as long as fans are not remarkably different in specs.
> 
> here is his post as Bram already call attention for:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/7640#post_21192812


That was exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!!


----------



## natsu2014

Got a question because I can not decide what to do. Should I buy 140mm fans for my SR1 or buy adapters for fans I already have (AP15). Which would be better?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Why not put the two same fans in push-pull together? So one AP-15 pushing to another AP-15 pulling, instead of putting both on the same side of the radiator? It'll look weird having two different fans on O e side of the radiator, but depending on whether you care about the visuals that seems like it would work better.


I think that's what I'm doing.
For my 360 rad, I have four AP-15s and two SP120Ls, so I'm just going to match them all in push/pull. So the AP-15s are in push/pull together and the SP120s are in push/pull together.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Got a question because I can not decide what to do. Should I buy 140mm fans for my SR1 or buy adapters for fans I already have (AP15). Which would be better?


I think it would be cheaper to buy adapters, especially if you want 140mm fans similar in performance to AP-15s


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Only 1 780 ti?


i was under the impression the south bridge block got in the way of a second card?









if not then id definitely put in a second card lol.


----------



## jdk90

Hey guys, I'm chasing fans for my 420 radiator and as Corsair don't make SP140 fans I've been looking at these by Cougar..


Info

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these fans that they could kindly share








I'm looking for something that is quiet more than anything, other than looks of course..


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm chasing fans for my 420 radiator and as Corsair don't make SP140 fans I've been looking at these by Cougar..
> 
> 
> Info
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these fans that they could kindly share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for something that is quiet more than anything, other than looks of course..


I hear good things about BGears Blasters too, although a little bland in the looks department


----------



## phillyd

The Cougar fans are fantastic. They can drive a GT stealth rad in just push with medium RPM's.


----------



## CrSt3r

What about Noctua NF-A14 FLX or PWM ... or better NF-A15 PWM


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The Cougar fans are fantastic. They can drive a GT stealth rad in just push with medium RPM's.


REALLY??? With adequate cooling?
I was gonna grab a 240 GTS. But i was worried that one set of AP-00's wouldn't be enough for it. And i didn't have enough room for Push/Pull
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> What about Noctua NF-A14 FLX or PWM ... or better NF-A15 PWM


Noctua's are OK, but a bit overrated. The A-15's i'm pretty sure only mount on 120 fan mount. They're meant for heatsinks, not rads. The A14's would work ok, but you'd be much happier with something like Akasa Vipers or Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Only 1 780 ti?
> 
> 
> 
> i was under the impression the south bridge block got in the way of a second card?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if not then id definitely put in a second card lol.
Click to expand...

Well you can fit another card into the black pci-e slot. Why are you going with the hero again? With all the $ and other setups you have going on 

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm chasing fans for my 420 radiator and as Corsair don't make SP140 fans I've been looking at these by Cougar..
> 
> Info
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these fans that they could kindly share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for something that is quiet more than anything, other than looks of course..


I've had wonderful experiences with Cougar. Love their fans. Using nothing but them in my build.


----------



## lowfat

I can't see how any 1200rpm fan will push through a 30 FPI radiator worth a damn. Especially a 140mm.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well you can fit another card into the black pci-e slot. Why are you going with the hero again? With all the $ and other setups you have going on


I bought a hero when z87 first came out because i didnt know if the extreme was an overpriced flop like most review sites were saying







i just went with the cheap version of it, turns out i cant live without all the features the extreme has







I grabbed a evga z87 classified, but like you said, we most likely wont see blocks for it. So im considering grabbing the z87 extreme as well







but for now im going with what i have till i 100% make up my mind lol. Also just got a 4960x for cheap locally, so i may try to grab a RIVE BE and go with that for my main set up lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I can't see how any 1200rpm fan will push through a 30 FPI radiator worth a damn. Especially a 140mm.


Yeah i didn't think so either, but i'm one of the less experienced people in this conversation. Maybe i'm missing something...


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm chasing fans for my 420 radiator and as Corsair don't make SP140 fans I've been looking at these by Cougar..
> 
> 
> Info
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these fans that they could kindly share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for something that is quiet more than anything, other than looks of course..


I am running 3 of these in pull-mode for my 360mm rad.

With a fan controller they are DEAD silent, without a fan controller you can barely hear them when there is no background noise.


----------



## CrSt3r

Okay, so im mistaken. Thought the Noctuas were pretty descent ... thats what i struggled with to choose. Way too many fans out there.

So my pick was a bad one. But now is too late to pick up another one


----------



## szeged

not like theyre bad, there are just better options







they do look like you raided a prosthetic limb factory though.


----------



## kpoeticg

Noctua's are decent rad fans. Pretty good for their speed range. But their speed range is limited, and they get pretty noisy at the high end of the range.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well you can fit another card into the black pci-e slot. Why are you going with the hero again? With all the $ and other setups you have going on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a hero when z87 first came out because i didnt know if the extreme was an overpriced flop like most review sites were saying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just went with the cheap version of it, turns out i cant live without all the features the extreme has
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a evga z87 classified, but like you said, we most likely wont see blocks for it. So im considering grabbing the z87 extreme as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but for now im going with what i have till i 100% make up my mind lol. Also just got a 4960x for cheap locally, so i may try to grab a RIVE BE and go with that for my main set up lol.
Click to expand...

You're a riot 

I've had my M6E for quite a while now and haven't used it yet. Might be getting a R4BE down the road. I want to keep my SR-2...but 1366/X58 is slowly dying out and it's still worth a decent amount so hard to keep onto it. Don't hurt me B-Neg


----------



## CrSt3r

Well ... i only run my 140 at 5V though ... my WC Loop seems Overkill right now for my CPU. And i dont want to run out of Options when i get an R9 290 in the Loop







... but shhhh ... dont tell my wife.

Its Christmas time









I know there is no such Thing as Overkill, but im happy


----------



## LiquidHaus

If I were to move to Z87 I'd probably get the Classified as well. I know EVGA's motherboards haven't always been the best over the last couple years but as a die hard fan since the 775 days I just cant forget about them.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> If I were to move to Z87 I'd probably get the Classified as well. I know EVGA's motherboards haven't always been the best over the last couple years but as a die hard fan since the 775 days I just cant forget about them.


Its an amazing board, the 90 degree ports/plug ins etc are awesome lol, made fitting cables super easy. Now if only some WB manufacturers could make awesome looking blocks that fit the dark style of the board


----------



## VSG

Not going to happen, this late in the Haswell game for a company not recently into the motherboard game is not good news for water cooling. All I can say is that the next time I upgrade, EVGA better not take this long for their flagship board.


----------



## phillyd

I was shocked too but the Cougars worked fine through GTS rads. You'd be suprised how much the fact that they are 30mm thick rads negates the FPI. They are powerful but a Monsta is just as hard to push through.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> Well ... i only run my 140 at 5V though ... my WC Loop seems Overkill right now for my CPU. And i dont want to run out of Options when i get an R9 290 in the Loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but shhhh ... dont tell my wife.
> 
> Its Christmas time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there is no such Thing as Overkill, but im happy


Most halfway decent rad fans are gonna be silent at 5V. The Noctua's and Cougars should both be more than adequate. I personally like to get fans capable of alot more than my normal use for them, just in case i need the extra cooling.

If you get the Noctua's, PWM or FLX are just how you wanna control em. I don't think there's any other difference (could be wrong on that)
FLX is Voltage Control
I personally prefer PWM if i have the option


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I can't see how any 1200rpm fan will push through a 30 FPI radiator worth a damn. Especially a 140mm.


^^^ This . . . .

Specs list over 100cfm . . from a 1200 rpm fan . . .

Does Not add-up.

I'd have to see Martin verify any of its specs before I'd remotely even think about it.

For 25mm thick 140 fans, nothing pushes air thru a rad like the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex series.

Even the Aerocool sharks beat the bgears blasters in my tests.

Darlene


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Got this thing mining bitcoins right now lol


whats the name of the ram cooling unit? and how tall is it from the mb?


----------



## Anoxy

Noctuas can look very elegant if matched with the right colors (black, copper, gold, silvers). However most people use flashy neon colors in their builds so Noctuas tend to look really out of place.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> whats the name of the ram cooling unit? and how tall is it from the mb?


looks like a corsair ram unit modded with white 40mm fans. i had one just like that but he must have put white fans into it


----------



## Anoxy

What's the best way to go about incorporating a drain port in my loop? Also, where would I put it?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> whats the name of the ram cooling unit? and how tall is it from the mb?


Like nismoskyline said, it's the Corsair Airflow you get from certain Dominator ram kits, I just painted the fans white. I think you can get them by themselves as well. But it's about ~80mm tall from the motherboard. Hope that helps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What's the best way to go about incorporating a drain port in my loop? Also, where would I put it?


Lowest point possible. Let gravity do the work for you.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Lowest point possible. Let gravity do the work for you.


I edited my post with a diagram of my loop. My pump/res is basically the lowest point. Also, I just assumed I would fill my loop from the top of the reservoir, is that incorrect?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I edited my post with a diagram of my loop. My pump/res is basically the lowest point. Also, I just assumed I would fill my loop from the top of the reservoir, is that incorrect?


I'd run a T-fitting from the gpu>pump, and then off the T, run an open/close valve. Bitspower makes some good looking ones, both the T and the open/close.

and yes you would fill the reservoir up all the way, turn pump on right up to the point that the reservoir empties, and then repeat until it comes back around feeding back into the reservoir, and then just top off and bleed it for a couple hours.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ^^^ This . . . .
> 
> Specs list over 100cfm . . from a 1200 rpm fan . . .
> 
> Does Not add-up.
> 
> I'd have to see Martin verify any of its specs before I'd remotely even think about it.
> 
> For 25mm thick 140 fans, nothing pushes air thru a rad like the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex series.
> 
> Even the Aerocool sharks beat the bgears blasters in my tests.
> 
> Darlene


Did you test Vipers?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question, AP-15's, 5v, push on an AX360 would I see any benefit at all using a XSPC 360mm Radiator Gasket?

Just curious


----------



## jdk90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The Cougar fans are fantastic. They can drive a GT stealth rad in just push with medium RPM's.


Thanks!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> What about Noctua NF-A14 FLX or PWM ... or better NF-A15 PWM


I really can't stand the color of Noctua fans..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I've had wonderful experiences with Cougar. Love their fans. Using nothing but them in my build.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I am running 3 of these in pull-mode for my 360mm rad.
> 
> With a fan controller they are DEAD silent, without a fan controller you can barely hear them when there is no background noise.


That's exatly what I wanted to hear, thank you








It says they come with a 3-pin to 4-pin adapter, does that mean they are PWM?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> It says they come with a 3-pin to 4-pin adapter, does that mean they are PWM?


it means it has both a 3 pin fan connector and a molex connector for power


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question, AP-15's, 5v, push on an AX360 would I see any benefit at all using a XSPC 360mm Radiator Gasket?
> 
> Just curious


You will always benefit from a Gasket/Shroud. It decouples the fan from the rad while sealing the air in. The biggest benefit is by putting a little space between fan & rad, it gets rid of the dead spot in the middle of your fan. It also reduces vibration of the fan against the rad.


----------



## jdk90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> it means it has both a 3 pin fan connector and a molex connector for power


Ahh thanks!
Second question, where can I buy Cougar fans in Australia?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You will always benefit from a Gasket/Shroud. It decouples the fan from the rad while sealing the air in. The biggest benefit is by putting a little space between fan & rad, it gets rid of the dead spot in the middle of your fan. It also reduces vibration of the fan against the rad.


Ah cool







guess I'll buy some gaskets








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Ahh thanks!
> Second question, where can I buy Cougar fans in Australia?


PC Case Gear they have Cougar 1 fan for preorder


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess I'll buy some gaskets











I usually use 3 per rad. One between the rad & fans, One between the rad & chassis, One between the fans & chassis (for a chassis mounted rad anyway)

Edit: For a chassis mounted rad with the chassis between the fans & rad i use 3


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess I'll buy some gaskets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PC Case Gear they have Cougar 1 fan for preorder


Oh god, another thing I need to buy!? My poor wallet when does it end


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Oh god, another thing I need to buy!? *My poor wallet when does it end*


End, what is this thing you talk about?


----------



## lowfat

My Kyros Murder Edition.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-51.jpg.html


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My Kyros Murder Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-51.jpg.html


Bro, that dust. But that block... Mmmm


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Bro, that dust. But that block... Mmmm


Ya the dust was pretty bad. Will need to take proper clean pics tomorrow.


----------



## Anoxy

meh, nevermind.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

In my desk build i am using an aquacomputer 840mm rad and 420mm rad, I want the build to be as silent as possible, will nocutas on very low RPMs (<800) in push be sufficient? It will most likely be cooling 4930k and one or two GPUs?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Thats what 140x9? You could probably run passively most of the time. Have the fans ramp up in relation to water temp maybe via an aquaero. Or in relation to Cpu temp Via a pwm splitter. This would allow you to use better fans at 800rpm and still have headroom to ramp them up automatically if necessary. In bundymanias review of the mor3-420 which is also 140x9 he saw a delta T of 7.6c using 9 noiseblocker pk2 at 800 rpm.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Thats what 140x9? You could probably run passively most of the time. Have the fans ramp up in relation to water temp maybe via an aquaero. Or in relation to Cpu temp Via a pwm splitter. This would allow you to use better fans at 800rpm and still have headroom to ramp them up automatically if necessary. In bundymanias review of the mor3-420 which is also 140x9 he saw a delta T of 7.6c using 9 noiseblocker pk2 at 800 rpm.


Awesome, just want the quietest solution so will probably end up going with an aquero set up to ramp fans when necessary


----------



## JPATHIT

NZXT Phantom 820


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm chasing fans for my 420 radiator and as Corsair don't make SP140 fans I've been looking at these by Cougar..
> 
> 
> Info
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these fans that they could kindly share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for something that is quiet more than anything, other than looks of course..


I have been liking mine, seems to do the job, quite well.



Running on a 240 and 280 rads.
Pretty quiet also.

-dimwit-


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JPATHIT*
> 
> NZXT Phantom 820


That is a work of art, great job.


----------



## Gleniu

Knowing how much some of you guys like those little dragons, I decided to take a couple of shots...


----------



## lowfat

Better pic of my painted Kryos

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-53.jpg.html


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JPATHIT*
> 
> NZXT Phantom 820
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is just beautiful, nice work!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Better pic of my painted Kryos
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-53.jpg.html


I love it...has a Dark Knight feel to it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> That is just beautiful, nice work!
> I love it...has a Dark Knight feel to it.


^^^ Exactly what he said on both accounts

Great work guys!!!!!!


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm chasing fans for my 420 radiator and as Corsair don't make SP140 fans I've been looking at these by Cougar..
> 
> 
> Info
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these fans that they could kindly share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for something that is quiet more than anything, other than looks of course..


Cougars work very well, I've swapped all of my fans on my 900D for cougars and they work very well.


----------



## natsu2014

Will they work better than 120mm with adapters?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The Cougar fans are fantastic. They can drive a GT stealth rad in just push with medium RPM's.
> 
> 
> 
> REALLY??? With adequate cooling?
> I was gonna grab a 240 GTS. But i was worried that one set of AP-00's wouldn't be enough for it. And i didn't have enough room for Push/Pull
Click to expand...

Why not? I don't have Cougar fans but sometime I do run my SP120s 2350RPM @50% speed (on GTS 360 & EX240 radiators). The difference between running at full RPM & ~1200RPM is around ~6C (IBT stress test). When gaming (BF3) I see almost identical delta temp for 1200 - 2350 RPM range, +/- 3 to 4 degrees.

For 120mm, you might interested with Cougar Vortex PWM (1500RPM max) CF-V12HP.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm chasing fans for my 420 radiator and as Corsair don't make SP140 fans I've been looking at these by Cougar..
> 
> 
> Info
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these fans that they could kindly share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for something that is quiet more than anything, other than looks of course..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I can't see how any 1200rpm fan will push through a 30 FPI radiator worth a damn. Especially a 140mm.
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ This . . . .
> 
> Specs list over 100cfm . . from a 1200 rpm fan . . .
> 
> Does Not add-up.
> 
> I'd have to see Martin verify any of its specs before I'd remotely even think about it.
> 
> For 25mm thick 140 fans, nothing pushes air thru a rad like the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex series.
> 
> Even the Aerocool sharks beat the bgears blasters in my tests.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

The highest CFM I can see in the spec is 70.5CFM (119.8 m3/h).


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JPATHIT*
> 
> NZXT Phantom 820
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is one sexy Phantom 820!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Better pic of my painted Kryos
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-53.jpg.html


That is a massive improvement of that block,black is.....timeless class


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Better pic of my painted Kryos
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-53.jpg.html


Looks great! I love the no-nonsense green PCB and silver heatsinks of the motherboard as well. A nice change from the usual black-and-whatever.


----------



## asxx

Very nice guys!


----------



## wermad

Slow progress....and pending delays







(gpu rma & shipping damage claim). Have most of the loop pieced together and next step is to plumb everything.


----------



## rickyman0319

can you guys recommend me 90 or 45 degrees barb fitting for my system?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can you guys recommend me 90 degrees barb fitting for my system?


Celcius or Farenheit?








Sorry stupid joke

Bitspower and Monsoon make nice 90* fittings. Usually you just grab the Elbow, and screw the Barb/Compression into it. You can find the 90's in Male/Male, Male/Female, Female/Female. It really depends on your particular needs


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Celcius or Farenheit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry stupid joke
> 
> Bitspower and Monsoon make nice 90* fittings. Usually you just grab the Elbow, and screw the Barb/Compression into it. You can find the 90's in Male/Male, Male/Female, Female/Female. It really depends on your particular needs


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_613&sort=20a&page=1

are you talking about the first page for Bitpowers?


----------



## kpoeticg

No. I was talking about THESE and THESE

I buy alot of my stuff on PerformancePCs too. But alot of things are alot easier to browse on FCPU if you don't already know exactly what you need. They categorize things a bit better. Those were just the "Liquid Cooling/Fittings/90* Adapters & Liquid Cooling/Fittings Monsoon/90* Adapters" Sections. They have alot more angles available than that.

If you're gonna spend money on angled fittings, I personally prefer G1/4 on both ends, cuz when you change your loop they'll still be relevant


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ^^^ This . . . .
> 
> Specs list over 100cfm . . from a 1200 rpm fan . . .
> 
> Does Not add-up.
> 
> I'd have to see Martin verify any of its specs before I'd remotely even think about it.
> 
> For 25mm thick 140 fans, nothing pushes air thru a rad like the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex series.
> 
> Even the Aerocool sharks beat the bgears blasters in my tests.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Did you test Vipers?
Click to expand...

I did not. . . .

To offer a bit more info,

I tested fans that I had good experience with in the past, had promising specs from reliable manufacturers, and that fit into the aesthetic scheme of the builds that prompted the testing.

Further, I was testing to evaluate the airflow thru the rads I was using in the builds, both in push and push - pull to see how great an effect the second set of fans would have and what sound level to expect.

I was also looking to see if a thicker 32 or 38mm fan in push would give relatively equal airflow to a pair of 25mm fans in P-P, if I kept the 38mm fan to a similar max sound level. answer was NFW

While Martin's tests give you actual standards based numbers that allow you to compare different fans in different categories, my limited tests were to give only comparative numbers between different fans, but for a specific rad.

Comparison testing is easy enough that most enthusiasts could do it, and most modders probably already have the bits on hand to be able to do it.

To that end, I started a thread showing how to make up the adapter cable and how to do it with minimal supplies and effort.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1445260/diy-fan-testing-find-the-fan-that-works-best-on-your-rad#post_21248933

Example of Bare Bones test setup:

(multiply the Hz reading by 30 to convert to sensor fan RPM)



And a nicely done setup:



And push pull on a 280 GT-X:



Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Interesting. I'll definitely check out that thread.
I'm still waiting for somebody to do a comparison test with Vipers. Most people i've talked to have had great experiences with them, including myself.

^^For 140's that is...


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Celcius or Farenheit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry stupid joke
> 
> Bitspower and Monsoon make nice 90* fittings. Usually you just grab the Elbow, and screw the Barb/Compression into it. You can find the 90's in Male/Male, Male/Female, Female/Female. It really depends on your particular needs


Not so stupid joke,must say i had a good laugh when i read it....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Interesting. I'll definitely check out that thread.
> I'm still waiting for somebody to do a comparison test with Vipers. Most people i've talked to have had great experiences with them, including myself.
> 
> ^^For 140's that is...


I'd be a lot more willing to accept their espoused merits if the folks singing their praises had used something else previously and with no other changes other than going to the Vipers or Cougars had a notable temp drop.

Most of the praises are without something to compare them to directly.

Maybe some one with a pair will do my DIY testing and show the results.

Darlene


----------



## _Killswitch_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Better pic of my painted Kryos
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-53.jpg.html


Lowfat, your my new buddy, was going to get Kyro's (intel version) but wasn't sure if the spacing between the inlet/outlet was large for rigid tube fittings without adapter's. Appears they are so thanks for clearing that up for me, one less thing I have worry about for my new build =D


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Most of the praises are without something to compare them to directly.


This is so true.

"Yeah the fans I chose are the best."
"Did you try any other fans?"
"..."

I've not tried Cougars, but of the 140mm fans I've tried (including Vipers, Apaches, B-gears, AP141, etc) the one that had the best build quality, temps and most acceptable noise were NB PK-3. But that's on my rad, in my case, at my fan speeds, I'd recommend them, but YMMV.


----------



## jdk90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> I have been liking mine, seems to do the job, quite well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running on a 240 and 280 rads.
> Pretty quiet also.
> 
> -dimwit-


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Cougars work very well, I've swapped all of my fans on my 900D for cougars and they work very well.


I just have one question though, as they aren't PWM fans, how are you guys controlling them? I don't plan on using a fan controller (took the 5.25" bays out), I want the control on the software side such as Speedfan or Fan Xpert.. Im just a bit confused if they will work been a 3-pin fan, and I thought the fans connected to the CPU header must be PWM?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Your mobo can control fans via voltage AFAIK.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> I just have one question though, as they aren't PWM fans, how are you guys controlling them? I don't plan on using a fan controller (took the 5.25" bays out), I want the control on the software side such as Speedfan or Fan Xpert.. Im just a bit confused if they will work been a 3-pin fan, and I thought the fans connected to the CPU header must be PWM?


They do come in a PWM version too however although mine are PWM and my board can control 4 pin fans I have mine connected to a Lamptron controller. I have 4 per channel without a problem using splitters.


----------



## jdk90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> They do come in a PWM version too however although mine are PWM and my board can control 4 pin fans I have mine connected to a Lamptron controller. I have 4 per channel without a problem using splitters.


Link to the PWM version?


----------



## IT Diva

Thought I'd pass this on . . .

Just noticed that the Primochill Rigid Revolver fittings are now available in nickel plated brass, as well as the original anodized aluminum colors.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22093/ex-tub-2364/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Revolver_Compression_Diamond_Knurled_Fittings_-_10_Pack_-_Nickel_Plated_Brass_-_Silver.html

Darlene


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdk90*
> 
> Link to the PWM version?


Newegg has them on both the 140PWM and 120PWM


----------



## jdk90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Newegg has them on both the 140PWM and 120PWM


Thanks!


----------



## ryanallan

Some updated pics from my never ending project.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1445355/my-neverending-always-chnaging-build-log#post_21251386


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I did not. . . .
> 
> To offer a bit more info,
> 
> I tested fans that I had good experience with in the past, had promising specs from reliable manufacturers, and that fit into the aesthetic scheme of the builds that prompted the testing.
> 
> Further, I was testing to evaluate the airflow thru the rads I was using in the builds, both in push and push - pull to see how great an effect the second set of fans would have and what sound level to expect.
> 
> I was also looking to see if a thicker 32 or 38mm fan in push would give relatively equal airflow to a pair of 25mm fans in P-P, if I kept the 38mm fan to a similar max sound level. answer was NFW
> 
> While Martin's tests give you actual standards based numbers that allow you to compare different fans in different categories, my limited tests were to give only comparative numbers between different fans, but for a specific rad.
> 
> Comparison testing is easy enough that most enthusiasts could do it, and most modders probably already have the bits on hand to be able to do it.
> 
> To that end, I started a thread showing how to make up the adapter cable and how to do it with minimal supplies and effort.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1445260/diy-fan-testing-find-the-fan-that-works-best-on-your-rad#post_21248933
> 
> And a nicely done setup:
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Very cool idea, and an awesome fan controller! I haven't seen that one before. Makes me wish I could somehow incorporate that one into my rig but I only have room for a single bay style one.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> Some updated pics from my never ending project.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1445355/my-neverending-always-chnaging-build-log#post_21251386
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking work









Just a suggestion, next time you have it apart, the run between your CPU and GPU, run it from the other side of your GPU block. It will look a ton cleaner.


----------



## Trolle BE

i bought some gelid wing 12 fans from a dude who didnt need them anymore.
i received the fans and they are all fubar and that guy is nowhere to be found anymore


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> Some updated pics from my never ending project.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1445355/my-neverending-always-chnaging-build-log#post_21251386


Damn,that Noctua's look awful. Please,please paint them.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> Some updated pics from my never ending project.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1445355/my-neverending-always-chnaging-build-log#post_21251386
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No offense but was there a theme or any plans of any kind prior to putting your rig together ? It feels, to me, like you bought random parts and didn't really care for aesthetics.
It's such a great case and yet you went external (never liked external rads). Then there are the Noctuas which can look great if they fit the build's theme but look totally out of place here.
The table really doesn't help either, you could've took a the shots with the rig straight on the floor or put a white blanket above the table.
And finally, as noted by gingernuts, the GPU to CPU run is silly and conforts me in thinking this wasn't planned ahead.

Sorry about the "negative feedback" but it's really how I feel and would really enjoy if you took the time to answer me









EDIT: just checked your buildlog.
I now know why your GPU to CPU run is like that. You used to have a 670 with a CSQ block and their odd design so you had no choise but to route it that way.
Just so you know, with "normal" blocks like your current one you can use either side of the block's ports. So you can go straight from the rear of your card to your CPU which would look much better







.

EDIT 2: You can also add your components in a sig rig using the "rigbuilder" in the top right corner (it's on the black bar) of any OCN page if you want to.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> i bought some gelid wing 12 fans from a dude who didnt need them anymore.
> i received the fans and they are all fubar and that guy is nowhere to be found anymore


Did you pay through PayPal? Just submit a refun request. Sucks about the situation though.


----------



## ryanallan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Nice looking work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a suggestion, next time you have it apart, the run between your CPU and GPU, run it from the other side of your GPU block. It will look a ton cleaner.


I know it looks bad in the pic, I should have posted a pic with the case window installed.
The window on this case stars about 1/4 of the way up the side panel. The massive ugly loop is actually hidden when the side panel in on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> No offense but was there a theme or any plans of any kind prior to putting your rig together ? It feels, to me, like you bought random parts and didn't really care for aesthetics.
> It's such a great case and yet you went external (never liked external rads). Then there are the Noctuas which can look great if they fit the build's theme but look totally out of place here.
> The table really doesn't help either, you could've took a the shots with the rig straight on the floor or put a white blanket above the table.
> And finally, as noted by gingernuts, the GPU to CPU run is silly and conforts me in thinking this wasn't planned ahead.
> 
> Sorry about the "negative feedback" but it's really how I feel and would really enjoy if you took the time to answer me


You're 1/2 right. My parts are mostly recycled from previous builds. The obvious being noctua fans. Being 20 bucks a pop though, it's hard to throw them out. And painting is not an option for me as the paint would most likely not be applied evenly leading to an imbalance and potential noise/vibration/reliability issues.

Believe or not, my end goal is for an all black look.
The idea with the reb/black MB is to eventually paint the red sata/pcie/usb slots black.
Also, I'm afraid to remove the white stickers from my ram in case of warranty issues.
I will likely upgrade to some 2400MHz sticks soon, hopefully I can find some w/o stickers to alienate this problem.

As for the 360mm rad, it wont fit on the inside unless it's mounted to the bottom of the case sitting on top of the 180mm fans.
I thought the external mount would look better, also placing the hot rad outside the case might help keep warm air outside the case.
I didn't even try test fitting the rad in the bottom mount configuration.
This slightly hypocritical though as the bottom mount rad would be covered up by the case's side panel when installed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> EDIT: just checked your buildlog.
> I now know why your GPU to CPU run is like that. You used to have a 670 with a CSQ block and their odd design so you had no choise but to route it that way.
> Just so you know, with "normal" blocks like your current one you can use either side of the block's ports. So you can go straight from the rear of your card to your CPU which would look much better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


This was 1/2 the reason. I actually considered using the opposite side of the GPU block for a shorter run to the CPU, but for reasons outlined above, I decided to try to hide the tube using the case's side panel. I also thought 2 90 degree fittings on the same side would look kind of neat - as one fitting on either side might ruin the symmetry.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> EDIT 2: You can also add your components in a sig rig using the "rigbuilder" in the top right corner (it's on the black bar) of any OCN page if you want to.


Will do, thanks.
I appreciate your comments BTW!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I know it looks bad in the pic, I should have posted a pic with the case window installed.
> The window on this case stars about 1/4 of the way up the side panel. The massive ugly loop is actually hidden when the side panel in on.
> You're 1/2 right. My parts are mostly recycled from previous builds.
> 
> 
> The obvious being noctua fans. Being 20 bucks a pop though, it's hard to throw them out. And painting is not an option for me as the paint would most likely not be applied evenly leading to an imbalance and potential noise/vibration/reliability issues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Believe or not, my end goal is for an all black look.
> The idea with the reb/black MB is to eventually paint the red sata/pcie/usb slots black.
> Also, I'm afraid to remove the white stickers from my ran in case of warranty issues.
> I will likely upgrade to some 2400MHz sticks soon, hopefully I can find some w/o stickers to alienate this problem.
> 
> 
> As for the 360mm rad, it wont fit on the unless it's mounted to the bottom of the case sitting on top of the 180mm fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the external mount would look better, also placing the hot rad outside the case might help keep warm air outside the case.
> I didn't even try test fitting the rad in the bottom mount configuration.
> This slightly hypocritical though as the bottom mount rad would be covered up by the case's side panel when installed.
> This was 1/2 the reason. I actually considered using the opposite side of the GPU block for a shorter run to the CPU, but for reasons outlined above, I decided to try to hide the tube using the case's side panel. I also thought 2 90 degree fittings on the same side would look kind of neat - as one fitting on either side might ruin the symmetry.
> Will do, thanks.
> I appreciate your comments BTW!


With the Noctua's, you can paint the housing without messing with the balance. You can also dye the blades without messing with the balance. Since you can't really dye things to a lighter color, Black would actually be the easiest to do. Could even paint the housing red and dye blades black to fit with your mobo

The 360 rad should Replace the 180's, not sit on top of them. You should at least try test-fitting your rad there with the Noctua's attached. Looks like you have room.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> Some updated pics from my never ending project.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1445355/my-neverending-always-chnaging-build-log#post_21251386


what noctra fan r u using for ur rad?


----------



## ryanallan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what noctra fan r u using for ur rad?


They're Noctua NF-P12 PWM


----------



## rickyman0319

is Noctua NF-P12 PWM better than F12 for radiator fan?


----------



## kpoeticg

No, F12 is the updated version of the P12. F12 has a PWM version also


----------



## rickyman0319

so they are both the samething?


----------



## ryanallan

P12 is a bit quieter than the F12, but preforms a bit worse.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> so they are both the samething?


No, not the same thing. I said updated version. Like Asus Maximus V Extreme and Asus Maximus VI Extreme. F12's are the newer version


----------



## LiquidHaus

You can most certainly paint your fan blades without screwing up the balance of them. The housing is the housing; painting them won't affect anything. at all.

Just rattle can them with nice light even coats. About 3 light coats in, and you should be good. Just do it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> You can most certainly paint your fan blades without screwing up the balance of them. The housing is the housing; painting them won't affect anything. at all.
> 
> Just rattle can them with nice light even coats. About 3 light coats in, and you should be good. Just do it.


Yep, I painted my ap15s in my crowbar build. If you do it evenly then you won't notice a difference, especially at lower speeds (I like to run mine at 5-7v).

If you go a little heavy or uneven on the paint then they can wobble a bit. I messed up on some and had to do over. You can use a 90+% rubbing alcohol to remove the paint. I used 3 coats (pics and details in my build log)


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> Believe or not, my end goal is for an all black look.
> The idea with the reb/black MB is to eventually paint the red sata/pcie/usb slots black.
> Also, I'm afraid to remove the white stickers from my ram in case of warranty issues.
> I will likely upgrade to some 2400MHz sticks soon, hopefully I can find some w/o stickers to alienate this problem.


You could get whatever black RAM you want and cover over the white stickers with cut-out pieces of electrical tape. I have done this on GPUs where the warranty sticker is annoyingly slapped across the PCB. Once I bought a GTX 680 w. backplate and they put the serial number sticker on the backplate.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> You could get whatever black RAM you want and cover over the white stickers with cut-out pieces of electrical tape. I have done this on GPUs where the warranty sticker is annoyingly slapped across the PCB. Once I bought a GTX 680 w. backplate and they put the serial number sticker on the backplate.


Do the white stickers on RAM sticks come of pretty easily? I thought about doing that as well, but just wanted to see if they generally come off clean or leave residue and stuff behind...


----------



## kpoeticg

10 seconds with a Heat Gun, generally takes care of any stickers that i've come across. PC related anyway...


----------



## Anoxy

Rubbing it off with a little isopropyl alcohol is generally a lot easier though.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, but then the stickers dead. If you hit it quick with a heat gun, you can peel it off and keep it intact


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 10 seconds with a Heat Gun, generally takes care of any stickers that i've come across. PC related anyway...


That is true. Unless of course you want to leave the stickers where they are for warranty purposes.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> That is true. Unless of course you want to leave the stickers where they are for warranty purposes.


Well then why would you be touching them at all? Heat guns, and alcohol wipes will definitely not assist you in "Leaving the sticker where it is"


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Minor update,finally got the res size i wanted even tho i had to pay extra to buy it from overseas....Still need a drain valve but at the moment honestly cant be bothered....









BEFORE


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







AFTER


----------



## kpoeticg

Your rigs coming along beautifully man. Props


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well then why would you be touching them at all? Heat guns, and alcohol wipes will definitely not assist you in "Leaving the sticker where it is"


I think Ryan was just concerned about taking stickers off in case of warranty issues, but wanted to achieve an all-black look for his build. You are absolutely right you can peel stickers off with a heat gun and keep them elsewhere, but if you don't have a heat gun or are afraid of losing the stickers, I find electrical tape does a good job.


----------



## Anoxy

I used electrical tape to cover up the ugly corsair stickers on my PSU and I think it looks great. Hopefully it stays stuck though.


----------



## kpoeticg

Electrical tape will def do the trick if you're going for a black look. People were talking about painting fans before, that's why i said that. To take a fan apart to paint it, you pretty much always have to remove the rear sticker to access the magnet or clip holding it together.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I changed my coolant in my Lian Li to a non-pastel last night. I can definitely say I like it a hell of a lot more.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-18-4.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-22-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-20-3.jpg.html


Is that a primochill frosted reservoir? my golly finally found someone using it. How does it look in person? (And any idea on how it will look in red or green? or with an LED plug)?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> *Is that a primochill frosted reservoir?* my golly finally found someone using it. How does it look in person? (And any idea on how it will look in red or green? or with an LED plug)?


Nope. Maybe you didn't see the Koolance logo on the reservoir







. I frosted it myself.

EDIT: As for stickers, they should be removed always IMO. The less branding the better







.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I used electrical tape to cover up the ugly corsair stickers on my PSU and I think it looks great. Hopefully it stays stuck though.


I guess not all electrical tape is born equal. I use it to wrap the frames of my bikes near the back wheel so the paintwork doesn't get too beat up from chainslap. Haven't had problems with it coming undone.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Electrical tape will def do the trick if you're going for a black look. People were talking about painting fans before, that's why i said that. To take a fan apart to paint it, you pretty much always have to remove the rear sticker to access the magnet or clip holding it together.


Oh, I see. We were talking about different things completely.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nope. Maybe you didn't see the Koolance logo on the reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I frosted it myself.
> 
> EDIT: As for stickers, they should be removed always IMO. The less branding the better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well, damn! that's impressive feat.







(i think the laste E of Koolance looked to me like LL so i thought primochill







)

So i'll ask again, how does a frosted res look in person? Have you tried incorporating light with it?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Electrical tape will def do the trick if you're going for a black look. People were talking about painting fans before, that's why i said that. To take a fan apart to paint it, you pretty much always have to remove the rear sticker to access the magnet or clip holding it together.


IIRC you can't remove the blades on noctua fans.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> So i'll ask again, how does a frosted res look in person? Have you tried incorporating light with it?


It looks fantastic in person. I don't ever use lighting though, so I don't know how it would look.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It looks fantastic in person. I don't ever use lighting though, so I don't know how it would look.


i always wondered how a frosted reservoir would look, and by your loop i'm finally decided







(hope deep red will look beast)

Just for the sake of comparison, here is the primochill res:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







taken from: http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?s=a080e6ec0223bbe4428e3ba96db8354a&p=3448540#post3448540



what would you say? is it more or less opaque than yours ? (not that it matters too much since i'm already decided







)


----------



## muffyn

I can't believe the hate on Noctua I've read the past couple of pages. Whether a fan looks good or not is as subjective as it gets. Some people like GTs, some people like Gelids and some people like Noctuas.

To me, they mean quality and silence. They might mean that the owner is sacrificing visuals for audio. For many people, water cooling is about silence, so why would anyone give negative feedback on Noctuas?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> IIRC you can't remove the blades on noctua fans.


I've personally removed the blades on Noctua fans. Some stupid people have forgotten to remove the magnet under the sticker first and broke the fan.

HERE'S a tutorial full of people that have taken apart and dyed noctua's
The tutorials outdated as far as using Rit Dye. But cpachris did a great dyeing guide on here showing the Prosperse Disperse dye works wonderfully


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> i always wondered how a frosted reservoir would look, and by your loop i'm finally decided
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (hope deep red will look beast)
> 
> Just for the sake of comparison, here is the primochill res:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> taken from: http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?s=a080e6ec0223bbe4428e3ba96db8354a&p=3448540#post3448540
> 
> 
> 
> what would you say? is it more or less opaque than yours ? (not that it matters too much since i'm already decided
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


That is more opaque than mine. Mine also has a brushed finish versus matte. You can give any reservoir a frosted look like mine w/ 5-10 minutes of sanding.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffyn*
> 
> I can't believe the hate on Noctua I've read the past couple of pages. Whether a fan looks good or not is as subjective as it gets. Some people like GTs, some people like Gelids and some people like Noctuas.
> 
> To me, they mean quality and silence. They might mean that the owner is sacrificing visuals for audio. For many people, water cooling is about silence, so why would anyone give negative feedback on Noctuas?


Probably because the Noctuas are not really as silent compared to other offerings, especially at the same CFM of air pushed/pulled. Linus in particular has been extremely effective in marketing the Noctua brand across the internet.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffyn*
> 
> I can't believe the hate on Noctua I've read the past couple of pages. Whether a fan looks good or not is as subjective as it gets. Some people like GTs, some people like Gelids and some people like Noctuas.
> 
> To me, they mean quality and silence. They might mean that the owner is sacrificing visuals for audio. For many people, water cooling is about silence, so why would anyone give negative feedback on Noctuas?


I've never seen any "hate" for Noctua's except the color. This is pretty much an enthusiast forum though. Noctua's aren't the "best" at anything, including silence.

They're very nice fans. In low speeds they're very silent. But their RPM range is very limited and they make alot of noise at the high end of that limited range.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've never seen any "hate" for Noctua's except the color. This is pretty much an enthusiast forum though. Noctua's aren't the "best" at anything, including silence.
> 
> They're very nice fans. In low speeds they're very silent. But their RPM range is very limited and they make alot of noise at the high end of that limited range.


And........you can generally end up getting the AP-15s cheaper to boot.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> And........you can generally end up getting the AP-15s cheaper to boot.


----------



## borax

Hi guys sorry to interrupt. I've got a small question. I've ordered me around 2 meters worth of primochill rigid acrylic tubing 1/2 OD 3/8 ID. Now apart from the primochill ghost compression fittings, is there an alternative to link the tubes etc? I heard ek were working on them but no update so far.

Thanks


----------



## lowfat

Nope. If you buy Primochill tubing you need there fittings. Other manufacturers use metric sizes, Primochill uses Imperial.

Took a picture of all my soft tubing fittings before I sell them off. Acrylic from here on out.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-65.jpg.html


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nope. If you buy Primoflex tubing you need there fittings. Other manufacturers use metric sizes, Primochill uses Imperial.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Took a picture of all my soft tubing fittings before I sell them off. Acrylic from here on out.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-65.jpg.html


Where will you be selling them? Locally or web?


----------



## borax

Primoflex? I'm guessing your referring to primochills rigid acrylic tube right?

Damn that's a hella lot of fittings!

So in essence I have to solely order these:

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Primochill-G14-Thread-Rigid-Ghost-Compression-Fitting-for-38-ID---12-OD-10-13mm-Rigid-Acrylic-Tubing-4-PACK--Black-pid-18546.html


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Where will you be selling them? Locally or web?


Canada only.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Primoflex? I'm guessing your referring to primochills rigid acrylic tube right?
> 
> Damn that's a hella lot of fittings!
> 
> So in essence I have to solely order these:
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Primochill-G14-Thread-Rigid-Ghost-Compression-Fitting-for-38-ID---12-OD-10-13mm-Rigid-Acrylic-Tubing-4-PACK--Black-pid-18546.html


I mistyped.

Primochill also sells their 'revolver' line of fittings which some people may like.


----------



## branttheant

Lowfat, what brand are your fittings and at what price would you be willing to take to part with them?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nope. If you buy Primochill tubing you need there fittings. Other manufacturers use metric sizes, Primochill uses Imperial.
> 
> Took a picture of all my soft tubing fittings before I sell them off. Acrylic from here on out.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-65.jpg.html


I hear you, I have a ton of the XSPC black chrome compression's that I will be dumping. Thats the sad part of switching to Acrylic.


----------



## rickyman0319

ST30 vs. UT60 ( 240mm)

ST30 --> P/P

or

Ut60 ---> Push only

it is only for i7 4770k cpu @ 45ghz (1.30v)

which one is better?


----------



## kpoeticg

Honestly that's a close one. The chart JackNaylorPE did shows XT45 Push/Pull > Monsta Push

No ST30 on the chart though. I'd probly go with the UT60. But as far as dissipating watts, it's probly real close. ST30 Push/Pull might even win. I dunno


----------



## Anoxy

And if you need a like new 240mm UT60, you know who to call


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Still working hard to finish the build and build log.

This weekend got to add the coolant and test the loop
















http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0037_zps8f3d1b54.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0039_zpsd5b0976c.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

You should put your rig and build log info in your sig. I think your ram block runs would look cleaner with extenders on the cpu and mobo blocks instead of dbl rotaries on the ram blocks.
Just my







Looks good though


----------



## rickyman0319

can 350x or 665 handle 2 x 240 rad (mcr240 & ST30 240mm)?


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You should put your rig and build log info in your sig. I think your ram block runs would look cleaner with extenders on the cpu and mobo blocks instead of dbl rotaries on the ram blocks.
> Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good though


Thanks! I will keep that in mind! Good stuff


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can 350x or 665 handle 2 x 240 rad (mcr240 & ST30 240mm)?


I'm assuming you mean 655 not 665, but yes it should handle that with ease.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, an MCP35x/350/355/DDC 3._ or a MCP655/D5 will both handle 2 rads just fine.
An MCP35x and all of its variants can handle pretty much any overkill loop you could imagine throwin at it. People generally use 2 pumps for one of two reasons.
a. Redundancy. In case one pump fails, your PC will still be able to function
b. With 2 pumps, you can lower the Pump Motors RPMs and achieve the same flowrate which = less noise


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Your rigs coming along beautifully man. Props


Thx mate,just wanted a nice looking system even tho it cant be compared to most of the builds you guys put together,next step will be to install a drain valve on my bottom rad....


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Canada only.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mistyped.


Hrmmm, and you're in Alberta too...







That is one large stack of fittings!


----------



## Anoxy

So if I have the PWM version of the MCP-655 should I plug it into my CPU fan header? I guess none of the AP-15s are 4-pin so there's nothing else that should be plugged into it instead right?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, either run it that way or something like an Aquaero.


----------



## VSG

Does the Aquaero have a cable that goes to the CPU header?


----------



## ledzepp3

I've been wanting a set of two Mips Cooler 5 Super Polished memory blocks for a while, but will they fit on the 4 dimm layout that the Rampage IV Black Edition has?

-Zepp


----------



## Anoxy

Does anyone here have an Aquaero 5 LT USB and can tell me the dimensions? I just had an amazing idea to reverse mount it to the back of my 5.25" bay bracket.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Does the Aquaero have a cable that goes to the CPU header?


Yeah. It has a tacho/rpm cable that can send an RPM signal to the CPU header



It can be used for low speed Aquabus devices or for RPM. I'm pretty sure it comes with one.


----------



## VSG

Hmmm I would definitely like a confirmation on that before I place an order only to realize I missed something. Off to the Aquaero 6 thread!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hmmm I would definitely like a confirmation on that before I place an order only to realize I missed something. Off to the Aquaero 6 thread!




"Connection cable for speed signal or aquabus" that's the tacho/rpm cable


----------



## LiquidHaus

Ordered a ton of stuff just now



After that it's only the Aquaero 6 XT to get, a couple of accessories for it and the rig should be done. I also would like to get a new power supply though.

Looking at EVGA's Platinum 1000w G2, but since I'm not sure that's why I went with the extensions for right now.

This will hold me over... for a bit


----------



## ginger_nuts

People stop posting pics of lists, my wife might see what we spend.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> People stop posting pics of lists, my wife might see what we spend.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Ordered a ton of stuff just now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that it's only the Aquaero 6 XT to get, a couple of accessories for it and the rig should be done. I also would like to get a new power supply though.
> 
> Looking at EVGA's Platinum 1000w G2, but since I'm not sure that's why I went with the extensions for right now.
> 
> This will hold me over... for a bit


Looks great. I'm pretty sure it's either the Platinum 1000w P2 or Gold 1000w G2. Both amazing PSU's based off the SuperFlower Leadex (99% sure on the G2) I know the P2's based of the SF Leadex Platinum
Def should be happy with your purchase.


----------



## kkorky

Job fully done..........................

Proper pics/info etc to come in Build log starting next week.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Anoxy
> 
> Does anyone here have an Aquaero 5 LT USB and can tell me the dimensions? I just had an amazing idea to reverse mount it to the back of my 5.25" bay bracket.


Here ya go....


----------



## borax

Hi guys got a couple of questions. Firstly I've ordered an alphacool St 30 rad 480 mm for the top of my case will be running it in push pull. Now for the bottom I've gone for a st60 360mm again will be push pull. To start with I will only be cooling my cpu (4770k) on a g1 sniper 5 mobo. I'm using primochill rigid acrylic tubing. Now I want to be able to utilise both rads before adding the 2 780gtx which I should be getting on my next pay day. I've also got a 240mm primochill low profile base res along with a laing d5 vario 1200lph pump with an ek top. Apart from this I shall be using primochill ghost compression fittings. Do I need to order any other fittings? And do I need to include a drain or fillport? (First time doing a custom loop). Additionally how can I hook it all up in a single loop but giving me the ease of eventually installing the two 780gtx?

Sorry for the long post.

Thanks guys.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hi guys got a couple of questions. Firstly I've ordered an alphacool St 30 rad 480 mm for the top of my case will be running it in push pull. Now for the bottom I've gone for a st60 360mm again will be push pull. To start with I will only be cooling my cpu (4770k) on a g1 sniper 5 mobo. I'm using primochill rigid acrylic tubing. Now I want to be able to utilise both rads before adding the 2 780gtx which I should be getting on my next pay day. I've also got a 240mm primochill low profile base res along with a laing d5 vario 1200lph pump with an ek top. Apart from this I shall be using primochill ghost compression fittings. Do I need to order any other fittings? And do I need to include a drain or fillport? (First time doing a custom loop). Additionally how can I hook it all up in a single loop but giving me the ease of eventually installing the two 780gtx?
> 
> Sorry for the long post.
> 
> Thanks guys.


OK, it looks like you have everything you need, the issue though is that since you're using acrylic you won't be able to add the two graphics cards very easily in later. This is due to the fact that one, you won't be able to use any quick disconnects to make adding extra components easily and two, rigid acrylic will pretty much require you to reconfigure a good portion of your loop to accommodate them. Being that I don't have any schematic that shows your intended routing I really don't know how much reconfiguring you'll need to do, but either way it isn't going to be very simple or straight forward.

I've never worked with acrylic personally, but from the builds that I've seen here and elsewhere I really don't see how you're going to pull this off easily. you might want to use acrylic for the portion of your loop that won't be touched and then use soft tubing for the portion that is going to get replaced with acrylic. This will require the extra expenditure of fittings and tubing, but it will probably make things easier since you won't need to recut or remeasure any acrylic tubing. Having a drain line will make things easier as well. I'm sure some of the other more experienced acrylic users will be of more assistance though.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hi guys got a couple of questions. Firstly I've ordered an alphacool St 30 rad 480 mm for the top of my case will be running it in push pull. Now for the bottom I've gone for a st60 360mm again will be push pull. To start with I will only be cooling my cpu (4770k) on a g1 sniper 5 mobo. I'm using primochill rigid acrylic tubing. Now I want to be able to utilise both rads before adding the 2 780gtx which I should be getting on my next pay day. I've also got a 240mm primochill low profile base res along with a laing d5 vario 1200lph pump with an ek top. Apart from this I shall be using primochill ghost compression fittings. Do I need to order any other fittings? And do I need to include a drain or fillport? (First time doing a custom loop). Additionally how can I hook it all up in a single loop but giving me the ease of eventually installing the two 780gtx?
> 
> Sorry for the long post.
> 
> Thanks guys.


For the ease, do include at least the drainport (a funnel if you got multiple inlets on the res, otherwise get the fillport too) , if you bend the acrylic you shouldnt need angled fittings and take into account the extra tubing youll need for the 780's maybe you could save some bucks on not shipping twice


----------



## VSG

I have 2 questions which I hope someone here can answer:

1) EK warns to not use any alcohol derivative with their acrylic reservoirs to see prevent cracking. Is this something common to all acrylic reservoirs that would prevent using anticorrosion agents such as ethylene glycol?

2) I am getting really tired of the delays my FrozenQ reservoir is causing and I am considering just getting another reservoir instead now. Are there any that mount using motherboard standoffs? It seems like a natural extension of mounting in cases where the HPTX/XL-ATX standoffs are often not used. I would prefer big reservoirs (even 400mm fits very easily in the 900D). Money isn't a big concern as much as availability from a US retailer is.

Thanks for any suggestions.


----------



## borax

@BramSLI1

Thanks for the info mate. Yeah acrylic tubing would make my life a lot harder in regards to adding the two gpu's in at a later date. I've made it my mission to order in enough fittings etc so that the transition is easy once I have the cards etc. Just thinking out of the box would it be feasible for me to possibly not hook up the second 360mm rad to the loop to start with, making it a simple ress-> pump-> cpu-> rad loop? Then when the time comes add in a line so that it goes ress-> pump-> rad1-> gfx cards-> rad2-> cpu and then back again? Sorry if that's not the order it should go in but please do correct me if it's wrong!









Thanks.


----------



## borax

@Roxycon

The res has a total of four ports on the bottom I believe, would I be able to use one of them to include a drain port? If so what fitting is it that I need for the port to attach it to the bottom of the res? In regards to filling the res there are two ports on the top I believe would it just be a simple job of connecting a funnel/ tube to pour the liquid into?

(I made sure I ordered ample acrylic tube hehe


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> Thanks for the info mate. Yeah acrylic tubing would make my life a lot harder in regards to adding the two gpu's in at a later date. I've made it my mission to order in enough fittings etc so that the transition is easy once I have the cards etc. Just thinking out of the box would it be feasible for me to possibly not hook up the second 360mm rad to the loop to start with, making it a simple ress-> pump-> cpu-> rad loop? Then when the time comes add in a line so that it goes ress-> pump-> rad1-> gfx cards-> rad2-> cpu and then back again? Sorry if that's not the order it should go in but please do correct me if it's wrong!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Order looks good but i think it would be aestetichally better if you didnt go rad inbetween, and the temp gains is close to none.. Wc loops should be res>pump(s)>whatever looks best>res


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> Thanks for the info mate. Yeah acrylic tubing would make my life a lot harder in regards to adding the two gpu's in at a later date. I've made it my mission to order in enough fittings etc so that the transition is easy once I have the cards etc. Just thinking out of the box would it be feasible for me to possibly not hook up the second 360mm rad to the loop to start with, making it a simple ress-> pump-> cpu-> rad loop? Then when the time comes add in a line so that it goes ress-> pump-> rad1-> gfx cards-> rad2-> cpu and then back again? Sorry if that's not the order it should go in but please do correct me if it's wrong!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


The order of components doesn't matter so long as your pump comes after your reservoir and that the reservoir feeds directly into it. After that it really doesn't matter what order your components follow in. I suggest that if you really plan to put your loop together and run it prior to getting the cards that you choose a loop configuration that will make it as easy for you as possible to add them in later. I also recommend that you plan it out as carefully as possible so that it also ends up looking good at the end of it all. Water cooling isn't just about performance after all. Well at least for most of us on this forum. Good luck and post some pics when you're finished.


----------



## Roxycon

Drain port should come out of the lowest component of your loop, in your case the 360 rad. A simple valve will do the trick, though ill always use an extra stop fitting.

You could also do something like this from my enthoo primo;


This would only drain my blocks but im not likely to change any rads in the case









A funnel would be plenty







just remember to close it before starting the pump else youll get a fauntain inside the case


----------



## Anoxy

Any ideas on how to make a goldish pastel coolant? I was thinking I could get Mayhem's Pastel yellow and then add a little bit of Mayhem's Red pastel. But if anyone has done it before let me know.


----------



## szeged

step 1. take scuba lessons

step 2. rent a boat

step 3. find pirate treasure from mid 1700's

step 4. melt the gold you find

step 5. use actual gold in your loop instead of all these mainstream hipster noobs using coolant

step 6. Accept your award and certificate of badassery.

or yellow with a bit of red might work. whichever is easier.


----------



## Anoxy

What was I even thinking....peasant coolant dyes. I'll just melt a few of my gold bricks down.


----------



## szeged

Now youre thinkin with your dipstick!


----------



## kpoeticg

If you check out Snef's Sand of God build log, it might help you get ideas for the coolant
His isn't Gold, but it's like a Sand/Orange-ish color. He mixed a few different colors to get it like that. Adding more of one and less of another would probly get closer to gold....


----------



## Anoxy

I want it to be more of a copper tone to match my blocks, noctua fan, and alphacool stuff. But I might just stick to distilled water for now cause I'm tired of ordering and waiting for parts...I just wanna finish this badboy already!


----------



## borax

@Roxycon
Good idea I also have an enthoo primo







love the case tbh! I may go along the route of having a drain valve coming out from the two pre made grommets like yours. Don't like them being at the front! Need to find a 5mm thick led strip for the front. Another thing, my fans.. I've ordered 8 corsair sp120 performance editions, would I be ok connecting these to the fan hub?

@BramSLI1

Thanks for the info.. I definitely plan to post some pics! Any schematics regarding how I can hook up the loop?


----------



## Juthos

Finally here:


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @Roxycon
> Good idea I also have an enthoo primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love the case tbh! I may go along the route of having a drain valve coming out from the two pre made grommets like yours. Don't like them being at the front! Need to find a 5mm thick led strip for the front. Another thing, my fans.. I've ordered 8 corsair sp120 performance editions, would I be ok connecting these to the fan hub?
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> Thanks for the info.. I definitely plan to post some pics! Any schematics regarding how I can hook up the loop?


Those arent premade though







but with a drain/fill port bit amnd making a 21-22 mm hole is simple







and hard line>soft tube, looks much better









You should be fine with that, the hub is max 11 fans so you got 3 extra connections to play with, though im not using it from a mb header, i have it coupled to a corsair link since all my fans (except the three phanteks fans i got) and two pumps are four pin.. But you should ask over at the phanteks enthoo owners club since im probably the only mot using the hub as intended


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @Roxycon
> Good idea I also have an enthoo primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love the case tbh! I may go along the route of having a drain valve coming out from the two pre made grommets like yours. Don't like them being at the front! Need to find a 5mm thick led strip for the front. Another thing, my fans.. I've ordered 8 corsair sp120 performance editions, would I be ok connecting these to the fan hub?
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> Thanks for the info.. I definitely plan to post some pics! Any schematics regarding how I can hook up the loop?


If you can tell me what case you're using I can help you put a schematic together.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So I got a choice either get more or less ripped off with the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Acetal (would cost the exact same to import it from FrozenCPU) or buy the Acrylic version cheaper and try to paint it black (which could fail)

Which would be easier in the long run?







Im already hating watercooling


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So I got a choice either get more or less ripped off with the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Acetal (would cost the exact same to import it from FrozenCPU) or buy the Acrylic version cheaper and try to paint it black (which could fail)
> 
> Which would be easier in the long run?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im already hating watercooling


Painting acrylic isn't too terribly hard. I painted a bunch when I was working on a scratch build case. You just make to make sure you scuff it up with some fine sandpaper or scotchbrite pad and use paint made for plastics. I used two coats of self etching primer then three coats of plastics spray paint and it came out looking pretty good. You might have to do some light sanding between coats to get a smooth even finish, but if you take your time and have patience it could turn out really nice.

Although, with there only being an $11 price difference, they may end up being right around the same price after you buy all the sandpaper, primer, and paint and such.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Juthos, are those 16mm or 12mm?


----------



## unequalteck

Hardware:
Corsair Carbide 400R
Intel i5 2500k OC @ 4.5Ghz
ASUS P8P67 Deluxe rev3.0
Gskill Ripjaws X 4GB x 2 DDR3 1600Mhz
ASUS HD7970 DC2T
ASUS Xonar DX
Plextor M5S 128GB SSD
Samsung 640GB HDD
Corsair TX650M

WC:
EK Supremacy nickel CPU WB
EK FC7970 DCU2 GPU WB
Bitspower multitank z-250 clear POM
XSPC vario D5 pump
XSPC acetal D5 top
HWL GTS 240 rad
EK XT360 rad
Primochill 7/16 ID 5/8 OD Clear tubing
Bitspower compression fitting


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware:
> Corsair Carbide 400R
> Intel i5 2500k OC @ 4.5Ghz
> ASUS P8P67 Deluxe rev3.0
> Gskill Ripjaws X 4GB x 2 DDR3 1600Mhz
> ASUS HD7970 DC2T
> ASUS Xonar DX
> Plextor M5S 128GB SSD
> Samsung 640GB HDD
> Corsair TX650M
> 
> WC:
> EK Supremacy nickel CPU WB
> EK FC7970 DCU2 GPU WB
> Bitspower multitank z-250 clear POM
> XSPC vario D5 pump
> XSPC acetal D5 top
> HWL GTS 240 rad
> EK XT360 rad
> Primochill 7/16 ID 5/8 OD Clear tubing
> Bitspower compression fitting


Beautiful! Need more pics!


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Juthos, are those 16mm or 12mm?


12mm


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you can tell me what case you're using I can help you put a schematic together.


He's using the phanteks enthoo primo


----------



## unequalteck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Beautiful! Need more pics!


but the other pic the cable is not so well manage


















photo credit to APES.my


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> He's using the phanteks enthoo primo


@ Borax, for that case I would just take a look at the owner's forum and see what others have done with it for water cooling. This will give you an idea of what your options are and how you can configure your loop. Just make sure you take your time measuring and planning everything out.


----------



## kcuestag

Part of my Primochill Advanced LRT 16/11mm Clear started to change color a bit (It is a bit yellow). I changed some parts of the loop (The visible ones) and it does indeed make a difference.









Wondering if I got a bad batch? It was purchased in August-September.


----------



## borax

@BramSLI1

I've been speaking to guys on the phanteks owners club however they directed me to here!







would it help if I listed a parts list? Will be putting the rig together on Friday this week when all the goodies come through! Got my ress and tubing today!


----------



## randomnerd865

What is the best/ cheapest way to get mayhems coolant over in the states?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Part of my Primochill Advanced LRT 16/11mm Clear started to change color a bit (It is a bit yellow). I changed some parts of the loop (The visible ones) and it does indeed make a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wondering if I got a bad batch? It was purchased in August-September.


IMO all tubing will cloud eventually. My LRT Advanced did as well after a few months.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> What is the best/ cheapest way to get mayhems coolant over in the states?


In my opinion frozen cpu, great shipping and they're amazing people, 2 years ago when I get my watercooling setup for christmas they sent me 2 12 packs of jolt energy drinks for free with a note saying, " Happy holidays and thanks for your purchase, here's some push for you to build your loop" and they gave me a 4" pvc Tyranitor pokemon doll.

Plus they are one of the best places for prices in the east coast along with the shipping, usually 2 days it gets here to new york.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I want it to be more of a copper tone to match my blocks, noctua fan, and alphacool stuff. But I might just stick to distilled water for now cause I'm tired of ordering and waiting for parts...I just wanna finish this badboy already!


Post the shade of yellow you want to the Mayhems thread and everyone will help get the color you want.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> In my opinion frozen cpu, great shipping and they're amazing people, 2 years ago when I get my watercooling setup for christmas they sent me 2 12 packs of jolt energy drinks for free with a note saying, " Happy holidays and thanks for your purchase, here's some push for you to build your loop" and they gave me a 4" pvc Tyranitor pokemon doll.
> 
> Plus they are one of the best places for prices in the east coast along with the shipping, usually 2 days it gets here to new york.


FrozenCPU is generally good. Their prices are a little higher on some things, but their shipping is ridiculous (good). If I order before COB, I have never had to wait the extra day for processing and it shipped that day. In Chicago, I usually get my stuff in 2 days as well on the cheaper shipping options.

They messed an order up and sent me the wrong things once (ordered 90 degree rotaries and got rotary barbs







). The made up for it in sending out the correct parts and giving me some store credit too. So good in customer service as well


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidelite10*
> 
> In my opinion frozen cpu, great shipping and they're amazing people, 2 years ago when I get my watercooling setup for christmas they sent me 2 12 packs of jolt energy drinks for free with a note saying, " Happy holidays and thanks for your purchase, here's some push for you to build your loop" and they gave me a 4" pvc Tyranitor pokemon doll.
> 
> Plus they are one of the best places for prices in the east coast along with the shipping, usually 2 days it gets here to new york.


Wow! thanks I use frozen cpu all the time. I didn't think they has mayhems coolant... I probably should have looked first.







Now I just need to figure how much I need to order for my loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> I've been speaking to guys on the phanteks owners club however they directed me to here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would it help if I listed a parts list? Will be putting the rig together on Friday this week when all the goodies come through! Got my ress and tubing today!


Yes, I parts list will definitely help. You can also use your favorite search engine to look for Enthoo Primo water cooled systems to see if there are any that are close to what you're intending to do. It could also help give you ideas. It's a fairly new case so don't expect there to be too many examples yet.


----------



## davidelite10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Wow! thanks I use frozen cpu all the time. I didn't think they has mayhems coolant... I probably should have looked first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to figure how much I need to order for my loop.


Yeah they do, go to coolents section and go to mayhems.


----------



## borax

When I get back from work ill update you on the parts list


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenCPU is generally good. Their prices are a little higher on some things, but their shipping is ridiculous (good). If I order before COB, I have never had to wait the extra day for processing and it shipped that day. In Chicago, I usually get my stuff in 2 days as well on the cheaper shipping options.
> 
> 
> 
> They messed an order up and sent me the wrong things once (ordered 90 degree rotaries and got rotary barbs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). The made up for it in sending out the correct parts and giving me some store credit too. So good in customer service as well


Yeah, FCPU's good like that. If it's something small, they usually let u keep it + get the right product shipped right out


----------



## Fonne

Just brought this package today









- 4x Ultra Kaza 3000
- Swiftech D5
- Swiftech DDC
- XSPC RES
- XSPC RX360
- XSPC RX120
- 2x 240mm rads
- Lund res
+ the rest ...



Not in mint condition, but the price was just *107 Euro* + shipping







- Thats almost the same as one new D5 cost here en Denmark alone - Pretty happy with that price







...


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Fonne

Thats just how I feel about the price


----------



## coolmiester

Panic over as EVGA managed to express me a new 1500w Supernova PSU which arrived Monday so got it installed and got the case all back together









6" touch screen is currently running EVGA Supernova Ultimate Power Control software which looks pretty cool.

*System Spec:*
Coolermaster ATCs 840 Chassis x2
Intel X5680's
EVGA SR-2 Motherboard
EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Hydro Copper SLi
EVGA 1500w Supernova PSU
48GB Kingston RAM
Kingston 64GB SSD's

*Watercooling Spec:*
MIPS MB and RAM Freezer Blocks
XSPC Raystorm CPU Blocks x2
Bitspower Carbon Black fittings
XSPC EX240 x2 Radiators
Phobya x2 480 Radiators
Monsoon Bay-Res x2
Laing D5 Pumps x2
Premochill Advanced LRT 7/16" Hose
XSPC EC6 Blood Red Coolant

Finally, a few photo's of the finished rig.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Just brought this package today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - 4x Ultra Kaza 3000
> - Swiftech D5
> - Swiftech DDC
> - XSPC RES
> - XSPC RX360
> - XSPC RX120
> - 2x 240mm rads
> - Lund res
> + the rest ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not in mint condition, but the price was just *107 Euro* + shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Thats almost the same as one new D5 cost here en Denmark alone - Pretty happy with that price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice package deal! That tall silver res on the right, I believe its called a reserator, reservoir + passive radiator, I think it's aluminum, so I'd be care and double check that before throwing it in a loop with other metals


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Nice package deal! That tall silver res on the right, I believe its called a reserator, reservoir + passive radiator, I think it's aluminum, so I'd be care and double check that before throwing it in a loop with other metals


Thanks







- It its alu, but dont gonna use it anyway







...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Panic over as EVGA managed to express me a new 1500w Supernova PSU which arrived Monday so got it installed and got the case all back together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6" touch screen is currently running EVGA Supernova Ultimate Power Control software which looks pretty cool.
> 
> *System Spec:*
> Coolermaster ATCs 840 Chassis x2
> Intel X5680's
> EVGA SR-2 Motherboard
> EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Hydro Copper SLi
> EVGA 1500w Supernova PSU
> 48GB Kingston RAM
> Kingston 64GB SSD's
> 
> *Watercooling Spec:*
> MIPS MB and RAM Freezer Blocks
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Blocks x2
> Bitspower Carbon Black fittings
> XSPC EX240 x2 Radiators
> Phobya x2 480 Radiators
> Monsoon Bay-Res x2
> Laing D5 Pumps x2
> Premochill Advanced LRT 7/16" Hose
> XSPC EC6 Blood Red Coolant
> 
> Finally, a few photo's of the finished rig.


That looks gorgeous! I love my Hydro Copper too.


----------



## rickyman0319

what fan do u use for ur radiator and case fan?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Panic over as EVGA managed to express me a new 1500w Supernova PSU which arrived Monday so got it installed and got the case all back together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6" touch screen is currently running EVGA Supernova Ultimate Power Control software which looks pretty cool.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *System Spec:*
> Coolermaster ATCs 840 Chassis x2
> Intel X5680's
> EVGA SR-2 Motherboard
> EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Hydro Copper SLi
> EVGA 1500w Supernova PSU
> 48GB Kingston RAM
> Kingston 64GB SSD's
> 
> *Watercooling Spec:*
> MIPS MB and RAM Freezer Blocks
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Blocks x2
> Bitspower Carbon Black fittings
> XSPC EX240 x2 Radiators
> Phobya x2 480 Radiators
> Monsoon Bay-Res x2
> Laing D5 Pumps x2
> Premochill Advanced LRT 7/16" Hose
> XSPC EC6 Blood Red Coolant
> 
> Finally, a few photo's of the finished rig.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Panic over as EVGA managed to express me a new 1500w Supernova PSU which arrived Monday so got it installed and got the case all back together


Gotta rotate that second Bitspower fan grill on the top. Grill design is running diagonal instead of horizontal.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, good eyes. Weird that its like that, but i'm pretty sure if he rotates it it'll still be diagonal


----------



## wermad

Aren't these grills fixed?


----------



## pc-illiterate

you mean replace it? rotate it 90,180 or 270* its still diagonal.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Aren't these grills fixed?


Looks like it. I think it's just an illusion caused by moire or aliasing or whatever the correct term is.


----------



## Anoxy

Does Swiftech make those hydrocopper blocks?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Looks like it. I think it's just an illusion caused by moire or aliasing or whatever the correct term is.


Aliasing is the cause. Moire is the pattern


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does Swiftech make those hydrocopper blocks?


As a matter of fact we do.


----------



## Anoxy

lol I figured that's why you commented on them. Good looking blocks though.


----------



## randomnerd865

The loop is coming next week!







I hate that stock intel cooler. Also still deciding on my final color scheme to accent the white.


----------



## wermad

Some progress and getting there.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Indeed, I guess it would still be diagonal if rotated. But I didn't think they were fixed. If they were, they'd all be one piece, and all horizontal.


----------



## Mortalis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware:
> Corsair Carbide 400R
> Intel i5 2500k OC @ 4.5Ghz
> ASUS P8P67 Deluxe rev3.0
> Gskill Ripjaws X 4GB x 2 DDR3 1600Mhz
> ASUS HD7970 DC2T
> ASUS Xonar DX
> Plextor M5S 128GB SSD
> Samsung 640GB HDD
> Corsair TX650M
> 
> WC:
> EK Supremacy nickel CPU WB
> EK FC7970 DCU2 GPU WB
> Bitspower multitank z-250 clear POM
> XSPC vario D5 pump
> XSPC acetal D5 top
> HWL GTS 240 rad
> EK XT360 rad
> Primochill 7/16 ID 5/8 OD Clear tubing
> Bitspower compression fitting


Hey man could you tell me which Dye you're using? Trying to get the same type of color for my coolant. Very sexy build by the way, well done


----------



## unequalteck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mortalis*
> 
> Hey man could you tell me which Dye you're using? Trying to get the same type of color for my coolant. Very sexy build by the way, well done


Actually it is ek premix UV blue coolant. The tubings are new but sadly some of my WC components polluted by plasticizer, tried to flush it with warm water + vinegar but still no cure. So it doesn't look it the original ek coolant anymore. Btw, thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have 2 questions which I hope someone here can answer:
> 
> 1) EK warns to not use any alcohol derivative with their acrylic reservoirs to see prevent cracking. Is this something common to all acrylic reservoirs that would prevent using anticorrosion agents such as ethylene glycol?
> 
> 2) I am getting really tired of the delays my FrozenQ reservoir is causing and I am considering just getting another reservoir instead now. Are there any that mount using motherboard standoffs? It seems like a natural extension of mounting in cases where the HPTX/XL-ATX standoffs are often not used. I would prefer big reservoirs (even 400mm fits very easily in the 900D). Money isn't a big concern as much as availability from a US retailer is.
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions.


Anything, guys?


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd imagine any res mounting bracket that can be screwed into your chassis could just as easily be screwed into standoffs. The problem is you'd have to get really lucky with the positioning of the res mounts/standoffs


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> The loop is coming next week!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate that stock intel cooler. Also still deciding on my final color scheme to accent the white.


Water cooling the 660ti?


----------



## apesdotmy

Greetings from Malaysia.

We share the same passion which is water cooling. Here are some of our latest work.

Belladonna









G2C V2









Poison Ivy









Black Pearl









Cheers!


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apesdotmy*
> 
> Greetings from Malaysia.
> 
> We share the same passion which is water cooling. Here are some of our latest work.
> 
> Belladonna
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> G2C V2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Poison Ivy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black Pearl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


Nice ad! ?


----------



## borax

Hey guys, back with another question. Ive got the Gigabyte G1 Sniper 5 Board. I am going to be using primochills rigid acrylic tubing. Is there any fitting which would convert the barbs on the mobo mosfets in order for me to connect rigid tubing to them? Any possible way to do this?

Thanks.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hey guys, back with another question. Ive got the Gigabyte G1 Sniper 5 Board. I am going to be using primochills rigid acrylic tubing. Is there any fitting which would convert the barbs on the mobo mosfets in order for me to connect rigid tubing to them? Any possible way to do this?
> 
> Thanks.


Not really.. You could perhaps go with a bit of tube+compression+female to female adapter+c47/ghost. But that would be so incredibly ugly and take up too much space.

Why not just go all out and get this?


----------



## borax

Quote:


> Not really.. You could perhaps go with a bit of tube+compression+female to female adapter+c47/ghost. But that would be so incredibly ugly and take up too much space.
> 
> Why not just go all out and get this?


Thats a good point that would end up looking like a piece of rubbish haha! I could go with that currently debating... really like the look of it.

Quick question, apart from the Primochill Ghost compression fittings, are there any others i can use for the rigid acrylic tube?


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Thats a good point that would end up looking like a piece of rubbish haha! I could go with that currently debating... really like the look of it.
> 
> Quick question, apart from the Primochill Ghost compression fittings, are there any others i can use for the rigid acrylic tube?


Yeah there is plenty mate. Bitspower C47/C48 + their new line up.. Or monsoon has a series of fittings as well as EK.
Just make sure you get the right sized ones. IMO Bitspower's are the best looking ones, and the C47s feature a double o-ring design. Creates the illusion of double protection


----------



## borax

Woah!







im happs now. I thought I was only stuck with the primochill ones (which I think look ugly as hell) haha. What are the names/types of fittings I need to look for in the bitspower range? The primochill ones are hard to get hold of in the uk.


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't think the Monsoon's are out yet. But supposedly they're gonna be releasing barbs with their upcoming acrylic line so you can turn all the Monsoon fittings that have been out for a while into acrylic fittings


----------



## borax

So if I was to go with the bitspower c47s would the cuts on the tube have to be near perfect etc?


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Woah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im happs now. I thought I was only stuck with the primochill ones (which I think look ugly as hell) haha. What are the names/types of fittings I need to look for in the bitspower range? The primochill ones are hard to get hold of in the uk.


Since you are in the UK, I looked on specialtech and found this
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/search.php?substring=bitspower+sli

C47 = Double O-ring
C48 = Single O-ring (think of it as a low profile fitting)

As for perfect tubes - cut to size and sand them down on a flat surface. Sort of like lapping a cpu, that way you should get an even end on the tube.

Then sand/file the sharp edges of the tube and it should pop right in the fitting.


----------



## Fonne

Any that can tell what these two rads are named ? ... The one is around 43mm and the other around 52mm ...


----------



## kpoeticg

One looks like Magicool Extreme Slim Profile 2X120mm Radiator - Black
Dimensions: (L x W x H): 273.5 x 120 x 45mm


The other one looks like it could be a Black Ice GTX 240
Width 133 mm Height 277 mm Thickness 54 mm


----------



## iBored

Hi guys, I have a few questions.
1. Do I have to get the aquacomputer backplate to fit the ac 780 waterblock, or can I use a backplate from elsewhere?
2. Can the aqualis xt res be mounted horizontally?
3. Regarding the ac d5 pump, there's a speed control and pwm connector. Does it mean if I plug in the pwm connector, the speed signal is redundant?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> One looks like Magicool Extreme Slim Profile 2X120mm Radiator - Black
> Dimensions: (L x W x H): 273.5 x 120 x 45mm
> 
> 
> The other one looks like it could be a Black Ice GTX 240
> Width 133 mm Height 277 mm Thickness 54 mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Thanks, looks like your right


----------



## kpoeticg

2. No. It doesn't function properly horizontally. I know cuz i wanted to buy one to mount that way too but had to go with something else
3. The AC D5 has no PWM. It's a D5 Vario that uses a digital signal to set the trimpot to one of 5 speeds. It probly came with a USB and an Aquabus cable? If you have an Aquaero you should use the Aquabus cable that plugs into the Aquaero. If you don't have an aquaero you should use the USB connector that plugs into your motherboard. Using both is indeed a bit redundant. Aquabus devices are controlled by the Aquaero. USB devices show up in Aquasuite under their own menu and have nothing to do with the Aquaero. Make sure you hook the Aquabus cable up to the Aquabus port on your Aquaero if that's how your controlling it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Thanks, looks like your right


NP


----------



## Phishy714

Quick question for you guru's of watercooling:

Would one MCP35X + XSPC Acrylic top be for a loop with 2x EK TITAN waterblocks, 1x EK Supreme HF block, 1x 360 rad and 1x 280 rad?

If not, what would be the best option to go with? Possibly adding another pump or upgrading it to something else? Thanks!


----------



## VSG

Should be plenty enough!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Quick question for you guru's of watercooling:
> 
> Would one MCP35X + XSPC Acrylic top be for a loop with 2x EK TITAN waterblocks, 1x EK Supreme HF block, 1x 360 rad and 1x 280 rad?
> 
> If not, what would be the best option to go with? Possibly adding another pump or upgrading it to something else? Thanks!


Yes, that's more than enough pump for that loop. You'd be fine even without the XSPC Top. The stock top on the MCP35X already performs very closely with aftermarket tops. Plus, I'm pretty sure removing the stock top voids the warranty. Might save you a couple extra bucks if you don't already have it. The one thing the XSPC Top has over the stock top is aesthetics.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Thats a good point that would end up looking like a piece of rubbish haha! I could go with that currently debating... really like the look of it.
> 
> Quick question, apart from the Primochill Ghost compression fittings, are there any others i can use for the rigid acrylic tube?


PrimoChill has the ghost but also the revolver which I think look better personally. Bitspower c47/c48 you can use. EK has some. Monsoon has some coming out if they aren't already. I'm sure all the other guys will start making theirs soon enough.

The c47 look the cleanest, but the PrimoChill are easiest to work with. They get ya a couple extra millimeter wiggle room when installing the lines and also don't require as much work on the ends. The push type fittings require a pretty even and beveled ends where the compression can have slightly uneven end and don't really need to bevel the end.

The acrylic bending 101 guide has a lot of good stuff in it and a lot of active followers that can answer any questions you have


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Water cooling the 660ti?


Naaa doesn't make enough heat and isn't worth the cost.


----------



## hotrod717

Any issues mixing 3/8-1/2" acrylic and 1/2-3/4" tube? I test and change components and I would like to pipe my pump,res, and rads with acrylic and run tube to my cpu and gpu. Would I experience a lot of head loss or any other noticeable differences? I already have a bunch of 1/2-3/4" fittings and would hate to have to replace them.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Any issues mixing 3/8-1/2" acrylic and 1/2-3/4" tube? I test and change components and I would like to pipe my pump,res, and rads with acrylic and run tube to my cpu and gpu. Would I experience a lot of head loss or any other noticeable differences? I already have a bunch of 1/2-3/4" fittings and would hate to have to replace them.


I run mine like this and haven't seen any issues with it. Front side is all acrylic and the back half is 3/4 tube. I don't have the patience to do acrylic in all that mess... Well that and I'm wait for the Monsoon kit in 16mm. It's all downhill from there


----------



## Ragsters

Do you guys think a 360 rad would cool better than air? I will be cooling a video card, cpu and full motherboard. I will be adding a 480 eventually but I jyst cant afford it right now.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Do you guys think a 360 rad would cool better than air? I will be cooling a video card, cpu and full motherboard. I will be adding a 480 eventually but I jyst cant afford it right now.


Of course! My slim 240 rad cools much better than air. If nothing it will cool the same. What GPU and CPU?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Of course! My slim 240 rad cools much better than air. If nothing it will cool the same. What GPU and CPU?


Check my sig!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Oops sorry! Yeah you should be good depending on OC. General rule of thumg is 120mm per component and then an extra. However the mobo gives off very little heat so I doubt( might want to check other opinions) that it will have any effect on anything. All that said it also depends on the thickness of the radiator and the fans.


----------



## darwing

Finally done my Antec 902 Mod build, dual Rad in the front with Drain valve and 250ML frozen Q res inside the case with 7970 and Raystorm GPU cooling and lighting











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















wish I had a better camera but It looks great, everything went to plan and is solid as a rock! lots of measuring and planning with dremel and fabrications


----------



## randomnerd865

Just ordered


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Oops sorry! Yeah you should be good depending on OC. General rule of thumg is 120mm per component and then an extra. However the mobo gives off very little heat so I doubt( might want to check other opinions) that it will have any effect on anything. All that said it also depends on the thickness of the radiator and the fans.


Bump it up to a 240mm radiator for the base setup. That way you'll have a 360mm area to dissipate the heat generated. I would say get a medium thickness 360mm radiator, and you'll be golden with the right fans


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Finally done my Antec 902 Mod build, dual Rad in the front with Drain valve and 250ML frozen Q res inside the case with 7970 and Raystorm GPU cooling and lighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wish I had a better camera but It looks great, everything went to plan and is solid as a rock! lots of measuring and planning with dremel and fabrications






My word, those FrozenQ reservoirs are a thing of beauty... I used to love them, I've had three but one (a bay res) failed miserably and I lost all faith









A+ mod, you've made a stunning Antec build









-Zepp


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> My word, those FrozenQ reservoirs are a thing of beauty... I used to love them, I've had three but one (a bay res) failed miserably and I lost all faith
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A+ mod, you've made a stunning Antec build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Thank you so much







it took a lot of planning and had to make it sturdy and fully sellable as I am hoping to sell this and build my ultimate rig







I love the antec cases, and to fit a dual rad + 250ml res inside was a chore but came out just perfect


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love those reservoirs :thumbs: looks good


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> My word, those FrozenQ reservoirs are a thing of beauty... I used to love them, I've had three but one (a bay res) failed miserably and I lost all faith
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A+ mod, you've made a stunning Antec build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


I really wanted a custom one from them...

Get one of the quads (X4 Fusion) from them directly, and then have them change the color of one of the twist tubes (goal was Orange and Blue) so that I have a themed look!

Maybe it'll happen one day.









Thanks - T


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I really wanted a custom one from them...
> 
> Get one of the quads (X4 Fusion) from them directly, and then have them change the color of one of the twist tubes (goal was Orange and Blue) so that I have a themed look!
> 
> Maybe it'll happen one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


LOL yea I heard the guy had a setback his lab caught on fire, so he is backlogged and probably wont be getting to orders in a while..

regardless I wanted to do a custom one as well with Gold and black helixes I don't know if he can do a gold helix for my next build but Im gonna ask!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The AC D5 has no PWM. It's a D5 Vario that uses a digital signal to set the trimpot to one of 5 speeds. It probly came with a USB and an Aquabus cable?


Not quite correct. The pumps speed can be adjusted from 0% to 100% where 0% is a very slow setting so it does not mean that the pump will stop. Anyway, it is not limited to 5 steps, you can control it much more precisely. The USB and aquabus/tacho cable is included.


----------



## Sjp770

Been a while since I posted this system here. Looking to move up to a Caselabs TH10 soon so this is where it will finish. Yes, that's a 560mm black ice GTX rad.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been a while since I posted this system here. Looking to move up to a Caselabs TH10 soon so this is where it will finish. Yes, that's a 560mm black ice GTX rad.


What size tubing is that and what case!! Nice build!


----------



## Sjp770

1/2" primochill tube, it's a Corsair 800D. I'm the only person I know of that has fit a 560 rad completely inside an 800D. Lazylog nigredo had his pop out the back of the case.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been a while since I posted this system here. Looking to move up to a Caselabs TH10 soon so this is where it will finish. Yes, that's a 560mm black ice GTX rad.


Nice and Clean I like it.


----------



## derickwm

Nice build


----------



## Tipless

http://s668.photobucket.com/user/jfais1717/media/IMG_20130606_202526_986_zpsb21cfe1f.jpg.html

http://s668.photobucket.com/user/jfais1717/media/IMAG0417.jpg.html


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> http://s668.photobucket.com/user/jfais1717/media/IMAG0417.jpg.html


Such a beautiful build with such an ugly stand. You could also do more I think with all of the free space. A pump and reservoir mount would help take up some of it.


----------



## Tipless

the pumps are in there... look up at the top of the mobo bay... youll see the 2 plaxi blocks there... i do have plans to add some plexi panels and lighting in there... just been lazy

oh and the stand has been replaced with 4 heavy duty cast aluminum casters...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> the pumps are in there... look up at the top of the mobo bay... youll see the 2 plaxi blocks there... i do have plans to add some plexi panels and lighting in there... just been lazy


Yeah, I saw them. I just thought it might be a better use of the open space to have them moved next to the motherboard tray. It still looks pretty good though. Well, except for that ugly stand of course.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> 1/2" primochill tube, it's a Corsair 800D. I'm the only person I know of that has fit a 560 rad completely inside an 800D. Lazylog nigredo had his pop out the back of the case.


I bet I could if I tried


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> http://s668.photobucket.com/user/jfais1717/media/IMG_20130606_202526_986_zpsb21cfe1f.jpg.html
> 
> [/URL]


I like the car chair computer chair. Do you have a link for that?


----------



## Sjp770

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I bet I could if I tried


Go for it! If I've done it it can be done. Trying to offload the case atm but I'm in the middle of nsw, australia. Not too many people wanting it in my small town.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I like the car chair computer chair. Do you have a link for that?


I second this!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not quite correct. The pumps speed can be adjusted from 0% to 100% where 0% is a very slow setting so it does not mean that the pump will stop. Anyway, it is not limited to 5 steps, you can control it much more precisely. The USB and aquabus/tacho cable is included.


Really? I need to stop believing everything i read on the internet. Even worse than believing everything i see on TV








Sorry Shoggy, wasn't tryin to give false info about it. I was told before that it was controlled the same way as a Vario except you could set it digitally from 1-5. So it IS pretty damn close to PWM then, minus the pulse. Nice








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s668.photobucket.com/user/jfais1717/media/IMG_20130606_202526_986_zpsb21cfe1f.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://s668.photobucket.com/user/jfais1717/media/IMAG0417.jpg.html


I'm BLUEEEEE, dobble dee dobble da........
I agree with BRAMSLI1 about putting res and pump mounts on the mobo tray. Will fill the area alot better as well as showing off your gear


----------



## Tipless

i made the chair.... and the case.... i will think about doing that with the pump... I also have 2-240gb ssds in a raid 0 along with 2 60gbs in a raid 0 as well that I will display once done


----------



## wermad

Awesome rig tipless







.


----------



## kpoeticg

SSD's always look sexier mounted up in view with some Velcro IMO, not as sexy a cpl nice pumps and a res though. Aesthetics has gotta be AT LEAST 50% of WC'ing









Otherwise RAM, Mobo, & HD Blocks would probly be in the same category as LN2 cooling and only sold in a few spots


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not quite correct. The pumps speed can be adjusted from 0% to 100% where 0% is a very slow setting so it does not mean that the pump will stop. Anyway, it is not limited to 5 steps, you can control it much more precisely. The USB and aquabus/tacho cable is included.


Hey Sven, whilst you are at it, would you mind also clarifying the fact that the Aquaero 5 does NOT need a wb to run a D5 and 2 sets of 4 fans-just so people have the correct facts-thanks mate


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjp770*
> 
> 1/2" primochill tube, it's a Corsair 800D. I'm the only person I know of that has fit a 560 rad completely inside an 800D. Lazylog nigredo had his pop out the back of the case.


I hear you I hate rads out the sides of the cases and stuff, I'm almost 100% sure I'm the only one to fit a dual rad in push-pull + 250ml res with gpu + cpu water cooled inside an antec 902 case before lol there is room u just need to optimize it


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I like the car chair computer chair. Do you have a link for that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> I second this!


By the looks of it maybe http://www.dxracer.com/ can help you guys out


----------



## KostVouts

28/11/2013

NZXT Phantom 410 Update


----------



## bundymania

New toys..........


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

That tubing looks like its matte, really nice


----------



## morencyam

Hmm.. That flow meter and lighting plug look interesting. I'm guessing the flow meter just plugs into any three pin header that reads rpm, like a fan controller?


----------



## Ragsters

I need some help guys. What do you guys think so far. I still am waiting for the EK CSQ 7970 block to be in stock before I can finish the loop. The plumbing has become a real pain with the thick tubing (1/2"ID - 3/4"OD). Also will be getting a 480 later down the line but for right now a 360 is going to have to do for all of the blocks.


----------



## Tipless

thanks wermad!!!


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I need some help guys. What do you guys think so far. I still am waiting for the EK CSQ 7970 block to be in stock before I can finish the loop. The plumbing has become a real pain with the thick tubing (1/2"ID - 3/4"OD). Also will be getting a 480 later down the line but for right now a 360 is going to have to do for all of the blocks.


Where would you put the 480, seems that if you put another 360 on top you could do push/pull and get a 60mm thick in with no problem.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Where would you put the 480, seems that if you put another 360 on top you could do push/pull and get a 60mm thick in with no problem.


I would agree,i would just add another 360 or whatever the demensions would be for a top rad and call it a day....


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Where would you put the 480, seems that if you put another 360 on top you could do push/pull and get a 60mm thick in with no problem.


I have to remove the optical drive and top left fan plate.


----------



## matada

Just re-did my loop.



then this happened



34c under load for half an hour. unfortunately my pump seems to have developed a short. have to keep wiggling the cable









some of the sag is out of the GPU. so that's a plus.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Guys / ladies does anyone make a top to mount a cylinder reservoir directly to an mcp 350? I could have sworn I seen them a few months back but I just went through both frozen cpu and performance pcs website and cant find any. No brand preference really just need one for my HTPC build. Only requirement is G1/4" threads.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Guys / ladies does anyone make a top to mount a cylinder reservoir directly to an mcp 350? I could have sworn I seen them a few months back but I just went through both frozen cpu and performance pcs website and cant find any. No brand preference really just need one for my HTPC build. Only requirement is G1/4" threads.


acetyl and acrylic both available:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_439_774

Darlene


----------



## Aftermath2006

does anyone know anything or have any experience with this reservoir i cant find any reviews or anything
http://www.moddiy.com/products/Barrow-Water-Tank-Inline-Reservoir-%28220mm-x-65mm%29.html


----------



## By-Tor

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_3007_zps25963d20.jpg.html


----------



## Snyderman34

Is there a pump/res combo (not a bay res) that can be mounted to a vertical rad? I'm planning out how to finish my loop (working with an expanded H220 for now) and I'm trying to find a way to put everything in my Air 540. Something like what matada has going, but with the pump mounted higher and attached to the rad. If not, I'll mount it to the floor or in the back after I work on the cabling.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_3007_zps25963d20.jpg.html[/URL
> 
> 
> ]


What heat spreaders are those?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> What heat spreaders are those?


Very light aluminum ones off of ebay. Seem to work pretty good.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281153788568?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Very light aluminum ones off of ebay. Seem to work pretty good.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/281153788568?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


How much better do copper heatsinks perform than aluminium ones?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> How much better do copper heatsinks perform than aluminium ones?


Not really sure.... Copper may cool better, but add a lot more weight to the card and with these long cards may cause some bad sagging..

Here are some Swiftech copper ones on my old 7850. The 7950's I have now required a lot more heat sinks.

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/20130909_235942_zps0a4d07f6.jpg.html


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> How much better do copper heatsinks perform than aluminium ones?


For what, and what construction? copper slug vs aluminum slug coolers, big benefit to copper. Copper base, to heat pipe, to copper/Alu fins, not much / not worth the weight penalty.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> What heat spreaders are those?


Zalman sells those at Fry's Electronics.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Ramsinks don't need much magic, a little bit more airflow will make more difference than the ramsink material. VRMs are important - do not starve them of air, or waterblock them (stock turbine style coolers generally produce the best VRM temps, be careful not to fry them when OCing under water, obviously that doesn't apply to FC blocks - those are king of all - just check to make sure things line up).


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Is there a pump/res combo (not a bay res) that can be mounted to a vertical rad? I'm planning out how to finish my loop (working with an expanded H220 for now) and I'm trying to find a way to put everything in my Air 540. Something like what matada has going, but with the pump mounted higher and attached to the rad. If not, I'll mount it to the floor or in the back after I work on the cabling.


Koolance reservoir/pump tops can be mounted to a radiator.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> acetyl and acrylic both available:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_439_774
> 
> Darlene


Thanks Darlene, not sure how I missed that. I didnt know heatkiller made reservoir accessories.


----------



## rickyman0319

what do I need to buy for a drain line ?


----------



## kpoeticg

There's different ways to do it. You can buy a BP Mini-Valve, a Fill-Port at the lowest point in your loop, a T-Line branching off to a tube that leads nowhere with a Stop-Plug in it, a QD at the lowest point in your loop....


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Got a performance question for you guys....Currently running a 360 exhausting at the top and a 240 intaking at the bottom,would i see better temps if i also use the 240 rad to exhaust thru the bottom while just having my 2 front and 1 rear 140 mm fans in taking....Only asking because i have no doubts the 240 rad introduces warm air to the 360 that's exhausting....


----------



## Arm3nian

Is there anyway to mount the tall ek reservoirs on a d5 pump?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Got a performance question for you guys....Currently running a 360 exhausting at the top and a 240 intaking at the bottom,would i see better temps if i also use the 240 rad to exhaust thru the bottom while just having my 2 front and 1 rear 140 mm fans in taking....Only asking because i have no doubts the 240 rad introduces warm air to the 360 that's exhausting....


Every system is different so theres no right answer for that, best would be you playing around with your configs and finding what youre most comfortable with







dust is also a factor in positive and negative air pressure , and be aware of that all your components does still dump higher then ambient temp from inside the case..

A friend of mine got an similar setup like yours, 240 intake bottom and 420 outtake top and we didnt see any differances in other orientations of fans, so i set it up with possitve pressure since hees kinda lazy dusting his room


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Is there anyway to mount the tall ek reservoirs on a d5 pump?


BP male male coupler or if ek has some similar d5 tops like BP has


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> BP male male coupler or if ek has some similar d5 tops like BP has


Hard to visualize how that would look. Wouldn't the res be unbalanced if only using one? For example I want to mount the 400mm res to a d5 pump with an ek top on it, one of the male to male would be enough?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Hard to visualize how that would look. Wouldn't the res be unbalanced if only using one? For example I want to mount the 400mm res to a d5 pump with an ek top on it, one of the male to male would be enough?


If you secure the pump on a floor in your case its enough.. Wouldnt let it hang off of the bit alone though









You cold go dual d5 and get this and this, but that solution is expensive


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Hard to visualize how that would look. Wouldn't the res be unbalanced if only using one? For example I want to mount the 400mm res to a d5 pump with an ek top on it, one of the male to male would be enough?


Cant you just get one of these

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5.html

Then replace the 140mm tube with a 400mm tube?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-tube-400-354mm.html


----------



## rickyman0319

if I want mini-valve on my wc pc, is this what I am going to buy



is this correct?


----------



## VSG

All you need is a T, that valve in there and a stop plug for redundancy.


----------



## rickyman0319

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7443/ex-tub-272/Primochill_12_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c499s745

what do I need after I buy this?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> if I want mini-valve on my wc pc, is this what I am going to buy
> 
> 
> 
> is this correct?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7443/ex-tub-272/Primochill_12_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c499s745
> 
> what do I need after I buy this?


The cart you posted on the firts post looks good to me. Only thing you are missing is a male to male extender.


----------



## rickyman0319

if I just buy the t-line, what else I need to buy?


----------



## Inviso

Well with the T-Line, you would have your normal loop running through the straight part of it, and your drain coming off the 90, at least usually that is how people would run it.

You will have to still buy the barb for the valve. And possibly a stop plug for the other side of the valve, if you want it. It's redundant, your peace of mind is your own.

Also, you might want to buy another barb and have a short piece of tubing that you can screw in when you want to drain, so if you had a stop plug in, you would just remove the plug, screw in the barb with some tubing on it, and drain it into whatever you want.

That T you listed is probably cheaper than the first path you went, but the question is how well do those barbs secure to the line. They are plastic, and I don't see any reviews listed for any of those T's in assorted colors other than one complaining about discoloration. But then again they might be just fine. I'm just sketchy about parts that look that cheaply made in a loop.


----------



## rickyman0319

I guess the first one is more securely and better.

ty


----------



## wermad

What's the ratio for vinegar to distilled water to flush out my rads??? I hooked them up to the hot tap on the faucet initially but I still have some pastel coloring in them. Going w/ plain old distilled and i don't want it clouded or colored due to the remaining residues.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> if I want mini-valve on my wc pc, is this what I am going to buy
> 
> 
> 
> is this correct?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I guess the first one is more securely and better.
> 
> ty


Your list already correct. You might want to add one female-to-male rotary adapter & one male-to-male rotary adapter. You may want to be able to rotate the Bitspower rotary T fitting.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's the ratio for vinegar to distilled water to flush out my rads??? I hooked them up to the hot tap on the faucet initially but I still have some pastel coloring in them. Going w/ plain old distilled and i don't want it clouded or colored due to the remaining residues.


I've always heard 10:1 water to vinegar. I've done it a few times and didn't do any damage to my old RX240 or current TC PA120.4 and BI GTX480


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's the ratio for vinegar to distilled water to flush out my rads??? I hooked them up to the hot tap on the faucet initially but I still have some pastel coloring in them. Going w/ plain old distilled and i don't want it clouded or colored due to the remaining residues.


I do 10:1 as well. With some boilibg water that has set for a bit.


----------



## rickyman0319

this is so far I got.

I cannot find "female-to-male rotary adapter "

I got some barbs at home

is that list okay or not?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> 
> this is so far I got.
> 
> I cannot find "female-to-male rotary adapter "
> 
> I got some barbs at home
> 
> is that list okay or not?


I don't know why the previous guy said you need a female to male adapter. A male to male is all you need. Also, the picture is way too tiny to see.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

The picture is fine,just right click the pic and then press open link in new window....


----------



## rickyman0319

can u guys tell me what I need to get the drain line? I need a list of it.

ty


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's the ratio for vinegar to distilled water to flush out my rads??? I hooked them up to the hot tap on the faucet initially but I still have some pastel coloring in them. Going w/ plain old distilled and i don't want it clouded or colored due to the remaining residues.


Dont use acids Werm,they really are not needed. Keep on with the flushing and shaking,the crap will come out.

And dont put that stuff back in there,if its still not coming out then its settling on the inside of your rads,probably wall action on the fluid....did you get any gradual loss of performance recently?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can u guys tell me what I need to get the drain line? I need a list of it.
> 
> ty


This is what i have in my to order eventually list for my drain valve....

https://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=wish_lists&wlcId=214519&action=wish_lists

and this is what it will look like hooked up to my bottom rad....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## rickyman0319

is there blood red color for it?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Cnt say for sure,i'm in australia so we are limited to the colours we get,maybe performance pc or frozen have a wider range of colours....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've always heard 10:1 water to vinegar. I've done it a few times and didn't do any damage to my old RX240 or current TC PA120.4 and BI GTX480
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I do 10:1 as well. With some boilibg water that has set for a bit.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I did one of the GTX 240s I had lying around and I did get a good amount of color out after flushing w/ the distilled. I hooked it up to the hot top to rinse it out under pressure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont use acids Werm,they really are not needed. Keep on with the flushing and shaking,the crap will come out.
> 
> And dont put that stuff back in there,if its still not coming out then its settling on the inside of your rads,probably wall action on the fluid....did you get any gradual loss of performance recently?


I flushed a few times using the hot tap on my faucet and I still got some color in the water. I did a bit of the vinegar diluted and it did a better job. I ran some distilled and it was clean.

Btw, no loss of performance. Just trying to clear the pastel from my rads and from the rads I purchased. Going w/ colored tube and plain old distilled (no silver as I have some nickel ek blocks).


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is there blood red color for it?


Pretty sure BP has their full line available in Blood Red

Edit: Well maybe except some of their brand new stuff that they haven't had the chance to release multiple colors yet. Almost positive the mini valves are tho


----------



## rickyman0319

I got everything in blood red color except the mini valve. mini valve is silver or black.

kpoeticg,

i post a threat about drain line stuff. did u see it? do u think it is okay or not?


----------



## kpoeticg

I just checked BP's site. I was wrong, it's not available in red



Nah i didn't see your thread. If you post a link i'll check it out. But there's much more knowledgeable people in here than me that could help u better

Edit: If you mean the Shopping Cart pic you posted, that will work. You could also connect the valve to a fill-port that goes through the bottom panel for your chassis. That's really just about convenience though. What you posted will work perfectly fine


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys, I returned my 140mm Cougar fans that I was using on my Alphacool UT60 280mm rad due to annoying clicking/buzzing noises when the fans were running - not to mention that it didn't even feel like they were moving a decent amount of air.

What are some of the best static-pressure performing, high quality, relatively silent, 140mm radiator fans available today? Price isn't an issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys, I returned my 140mm Cougar fans that I was using on my Alphacool UT60 280mm rad due to annoying clicking/buzzing noises when the fans were running - not to mention that it didn't even feel like they were moving a decent amount of air.
> 
> What are some of the best static-pressure performing, high quality, relatively silent, 140mm radiator fans available today? Price isn't an issue.


Were these PWM fans that you were using and were you using them with a fan controller or with your motherboard's headers? The reason I'm asking is that PWM fans don't like voltage regulation, which is what most fan controllers use and also most motherboard chassis headers. CPU fan headers tend to be the only PWM fan headers even if the other fan headers have four pins.


----------



## gdubc

So I am about to put in my orderand I am wondering which pump to go with. I have bitpower z res. now and the pump will be used for a double rad loop with cpu, cpu, mosfet and sb blocks. I am basically deciding between an ek ddc 3.2 pwm csq or the swiftech mcp35x. I also was looking at possibly using the z res in another build and maybe going with the d5 vario/photon res. combo. Any thoughts?


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Were these PWM fans that you were using and were you using them with a fan controller or with your motherboard's headers? The reason I'm asking is that PWM fans don't like voltage regulation, which is what most fan controllers use and also most motherboard chassis headers. CPU fan headers tend to be the only PWM fan headers even if the other fan headers have four pins.


I have the Cougar non-PWM variants (3-pin), and I've tried plugging them into my fan controller as well as the motherboard headers. Same thing.

Also, I have 3 Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition PWM fans plugged into my fan controller with no issues whatsoever... should I swap them out for non-PWM models then?


----------



## Roxycon

The phanteks fans should be pretty awesome as static pressure, but i have to turn them down to 600 rpm


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> So I am about to put in my orderand I am wondering which pump to go with. I have bitpower z res. now and the pump will be used for a double rad loop with cpu, cpu, mosfet and sb blocks. I am basically deciding between an ek ddc 3.2 pwm csq or the swiftech mcp35x. I also was looking at possibly using the z res in another build and maybe going with the d5 vario/photon res. combo. Any thoughts?


You can't go wrong with the 35x


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> I have the Cougar non-PWM variants (3-pin), and I've tried plugging them into my fan controller as well as the motherboard headers. Same thing.
> 
> Also, I have 3 Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition PWM fans plugged into my fan controller with no issues whatsoever... should I swap them out for non-PWM models then?


That depends on what fan controller you have. If your fan controller has PWM capabilities then you're fine. If it doesn't then you're probably going to cut the life of those fans short by controlling them with voltage.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Koolance reservoir/pump tops can be mounted to a radiator.


Awesome. Thanks!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Awesome. Thanks!


You can also use something like THIS
 

or THIS
 

to mount almost anything to a rad


----------



## wermad

Still working on it


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still working on it


Why not just make the case out of radiators?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why not just make the case out of radiators?


Uhm....no.Radiators are not designed to be structural parts.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That depends on what fan controller you have. If your fan controller has PWM capabilities then you're fine. If it doesn't then you're probably going to cut the life of those fans short by controlling them with voltage.


I have the Lamptron FC5V3.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20979/bus-354/Lamptron_30W_-_6_Channel_Aluminum_Rheobus_w_Multi_Color_Backlit_LED_-_Version_3_-_Black_FC-5V3_w_Brighter_Display.html


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why not just make the case out of radiators?
> 
> 
> 
> Uhm....no.Radiators are not designed to be structural parts.
Click to expand...

I was not being serious.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have FC-6. it also can control pwm and not voltage. is there any fan controller that can controller both (pwm and voltage)?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have FC-6. it also can control pwm and not voltage. is there any fan controller that can controller both (pwm and voltage)?


Aquaero 5/6.


----------



## ozzy1925

guys can you check if this loop order is correct?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

I'm still a newb but from what i have learned the only thing that matters in a loop order is res then pump like you have it in the diagram....I'll let the pro's give you a definite answer....


----------



## jleslie246

My flow is the exact opposite (except for your pump/res in/out). Pay attention to pump in/out and cpu block in/out. Everything else can go either way.


----------



## cyphon

That loop is fine


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still working on it


Mate you might wanna consider getting a bag full of the ModMyToys adhesive clips. They're phenomenal for fan cabling, I can't even see any of the cables from the 4 fans in the top of my case, or the three in the front. They're the cheapest, and best solution I think without drilling holes for cable cuff mounts.

Looks awesome though









-Zepp


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Uhm....no.Radiators are not designed to be structural parts.


I saw that you are trying to clean your radiator from pastel use
how long did the rinsing go?

I've been trying to flush my rad from red color coolant, been using vinegar as well
its been two days which I shaked the rad with water 5-8 times a day
and let DI water sit overnight for the last two days

yet the water still run a bit red

I would only use DI water from now on


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Mate you might wanna consider getting a bag full of the ModMyToys adhesive clips. They're phenomenal for fan cabling, I can't even see any of the cables from the 4 fans in the top of my case, or the three in the front. They're the cheapest, and best solution I think without drilling holes for cable cuff mounts.
> 
> Looks awesome though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Agreed. I use them all over in all my cases









I think Frozencpu has their own brand that are quite cheap as well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Mate you might wanna consider getting a bag full of the ModMyToys adhesive clips. They're phenomenal for fan cabling, I can't even see any of the cables from the 4 fans in the top of my case, or the three in the front. They're the cheapest, and best solution I think without drilling holes for cable cuff mounts.
> 
> Looks awesome though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


I have a ton of sticky anchors and i bought a tap to use some screw anchors. All covered








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I saw that you are trying to clean your radiator from pastel use
> how long did the rinsing go?
> 
> I've been trying to flush my rad from red color coolant, been using vinegar as well
> its been two days which I shaked the rad with water 5-8 times a day
> and let DI water sit overnight for the last two days
> 
> yet the water still run a bit red
> 
> I would only use DI water from now on


I flushed them w/ the vinegar solution first and then ran them through the hot tap on my faucet. I ran out of tube so I'm going to have to drain the loop in the near future to replace the off colored one. I'll have it running by this weekend and I'll know by then if the flushing helped get rid of the .


----------



## Maximus Knight

Wow dat 4 lightnings..


----------



## rickyman0319

I have some black 120mm grills. I want to paint it red. how do I do it? what do I need to make it peel prove??


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Agreed. I use them all over in all my cases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think Frozencpu has their own brand that are quite cheap as well.


Mind sharing links to these (either the modmytoys or FrozenCPU ones)?


----------



## kpoeticg

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g35/c34/s806/list/p1/SleevingHeatshrink-Wire_Management-Wire_Saddles-Page1.html?o=title_az&id=ZXxUJjLA&mv_pc=14961


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mind sharing links to these (either the modmytoys or FrozenCPU ones)?


Here ya go, http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g44/c34/s1510/list/p1/DIYMod_Parts-Wire_Management-Kobra_Cable_Bundlers-Page1.html?id=nrfRxFn3&mv_pc=13923

Scroll down to middle of page, I think those are what your after no?


----------



## kpoeticg

PPCs started carrying the new BP acrylic fittings. They're at the top of the "New Products" page if nobody said anything yet....


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have some black 120mm grills. I want to paint it red. how do I do it? what do I need to make it peel prove??


Ideally, scuff them up with a scotchbrite pad, hit it with a coat of primer, then 2 or 3 coats of paint. A coat of clear coat will help prevent scratching and peeling but isn't required.


----------



## kingchris

almost finished!

Monstas


The rest


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> almost finished!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Monstas
> 
> 
> The rest


really digging the acrylic work. nice job man.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm still a newb but from what i have learned the only thing that matters in a loop order is res then pump like you have it in the diagram....I'll let the pro's give you a definite answer....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> My flow is the exact opposite (except for your pump/res in/out). Pay attention to pump in/out and cpu block in/out. Everything else can go either way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That loop is fine


ram slot is the last part of the loop and i am a bit confused because it will get warm water from the cpu..Is there an another solution for the ram?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm still a newb but from what i have learned the only thing that matters in a loop order is res then pump like you have it in the diagram....I'll let the pro's give you a definite answer....
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> My flow is the exact opposite (except for your pump/res in/out). Pay attention to pump in/out and cpu block in/out. Everything else can go either way.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That loop is fine
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ram slot is the last part of the loop and i am a bit confused because it will get warm water from the cpu..Is there an another solution for the ram?
Click to expand...

Ram doesn't need watercooling so it doesn't matter in the slightest.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> ram slot is the last part of the loop and i am a bit confused because it will get warm water from the cpu..Is there an another solution for the ram?


From what I've heard, it really doesn't matter how you route your loop. People mostly go for aesthetics when routing their loops. The temperatures from one end to the other won't be far off from one another. The most important things is to make sure the reservoir feeds the pump.


----------



## SamNicko

dang! kingchris that's awesome! Great JOB


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm still a newb but from what i have learned the only thing that matters in a loop order is res then pump like you have it in the diagram....I'll let the pro's give you a definite answer....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> My flow is the exact opposite (except for your pump/res in/out). Pay attention to pump in/out and cpu block in/out. Everything else can go either way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That loop is fine


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ram doesn't need watercooling so it doesn't matter in the slightest.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> From what I've heard, it really doesn't matter how you route your loop. People mostly go for aesthetics when routing their loops. The temperatures from one end to the other won't be far off from one another. The most important things is to make sure the reservoir feeds the pump.


ok then +rep for all


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Hey Sven, whilst you are at it, would you mind also clarifying the fact that the Aquaero 5 does NOT need a wb to run a D5 and 2 sets of 4 fans-just so people have the correct facts-thanks mate


If we are talking about the aquabus variant, then it does not matter at all since this pump generates no load on the aquaero. If you want to control the pump directly by its voltage, then you will need the passive heatsink to get it working. The aquaero should also have some air to breathe and should not be placed in the darkest corner of your PC ;-)

In this case the aquaero 6 would be the better deal since it can handle loads like this easily without generating much heat.


----------



## johnnybra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Hey Sven, whilst you are at it, would you mind also clarifying the fact that the Aquaero 5 does NOT need a wb to run a D5 and 2 sets of 4 fans-just so people have the correct facts-thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If we are talking about the aquabus variant, then it does not matter at all since these pumps generate no load on the aquaero. But if you want to control the pumps directly by its voltage, then I would not really recommend to use two pumps with the passive heatsink. It can work but depends a lot on the settings of the pumps and if the aquaero has some air to breathe or if it is placed in the darkest corner of your PC ;-)
> 
> In this case the aquaero 6 would be the better deal since it can handle loads like this easily without generating much heat.
Click to expand...

Are there too much difference between the starting voltage of d5 and ddc then?
I thinked that ddc (and its variants) cannot be controlled directly by aquaero 5, and they need a pa2 to be properly working


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Are there too much difference between the starting voltage of d5 and ddc then?
> I thinked that ddc (and its variants) cannot be controlled directly by aquaero 5, and they need a pa2 to be properly working


You can use a DDC or D5 pump directly on the aquaero 5 but the main problem is the heat that they will generate on the voltage regulators. When you slow them down there will be a lot of thermal power loss. The higher starting current is no problem. The aquaero has an intelligent overload management which was designed to allow pumps to spin up.


----------



## johnnybra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Are there too much difference between the starting voltage of d5 and ddc then?
> I thinked that ddc (and its variants) cannot be controlled directly by aquaero 5, and they need a pa2 to be properly working
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a DDC or D5 pump directly on the aquaero 5 but the main problem is the heat that they will generate on the voltage regulators. When you slow them down there will be a lot of thermal power loss. The higher starting current is no problem. The aquaero has an intelligent overload management which was designed to allow pumps to spin up.
Click to expand...

Thank you, shoggy.

So, in your opinion, could I connect directly my ddc-1tplus to the aq5 without any risk? I don't have any temp issue, my controllers are allways under 30-35c.

I have ordered a pa2 ultra, but this option would be great to slow the pump in order to purge my loop


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Thank you, shoggy.
> 
> So, in your opinion, could I connect directly my ddc-1tplus to the aq5 without any risk? I don't have any temp issue, my controllers are allways under 30-35c.
> 
> I have ordered a pa2 ultra, but this option would be great to slow the pump in order to purge my loop


If you are using at least the passive heatsink I see no problem here.


----------



## johnnybra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Thank you, shoggy.
> 
> So, in your opinion, could I connect directly my ddc-1tplus to the aq5 without any risk? I don't have any temp issue, my controllers are allways under 30-35c.
> 
> I have ordered a pa2 ultra, but this option would be great to slow the pump in order to purge my loop
> 
> 
> 
> If you are using at least the passive heatsink I see no problem here.
Click to expand...

Thank you, Shoggy. I tried it and.. it works! Fan amplifiers temps are stable in low 50c.

The only bad thing is that it don't reach 12v, but 11.6v. I think that with pa2 this can be solved.

PS. At 3500rpm I have better water temps than 4500rpm. These ddc are very hot, and mine is inside an alphacool silentbox.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If we are talking about the aquabus variant, then it does not matter at all since this pump generates no load on the aquaero. If you want to control the pump directly by its voltage, then you will need the passive heatsink to get it working. The aquaero should also have some air to breathe and should not be placed in the darkest corner of your PC ;-)
> 
> In this case the aquaero 6 would be the better deal since it can handle loads like this easily without generating much heat.


Thank you for your verification.

Too much false and incorrect opinions/information at times (such is the nature of forums)

-people mean well, but often too try to hard in their quest to be noticed









My order is in btw


----------



## Anoxy

I read that the waterblock or passive cooler is only needed on the Aquaero if you are splitting several channels into 3 or 4+ fans


----------



## rickyman0319

do u guys know any good red led fan for radiator and for case?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do u guys know any good red led fan for radiator and for case?


How about these Cooler Master XtraFlo


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> How about these Cooler Master XtraFlo


Is that for radiator or case fan?


----------



## kingchris

Thanks for the comments guys.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> Is that for radiator or case fan?


Suitable for both I would say.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK
This gentleman used them in his build. Check out the thread.


----------



## kpoeticg

The JetFlo's are their newest LED rad fans.


Not sure which ones are actually better. They're both PWM and have a max of 2200RPM. The JetFlo's seem to be a little bit better built. The XtraFlo's have blades closer to Akasa Vipers or Apaches, the JetFlo's look closer to SP120's maybe.

You can't judge CM fans (or most fans) by their rated SP.


----------



## rickyman0319

so which one is better jetflo or xtraflow for radiator fan?

i may combine with eloop on the bottom and this fans on top.

do u guys use AF120 w/ led , how is the noise and brightness?


----------



## Sunreeper

I wouldn't go with cooler master fans they are known to outright lie on their fans specs. Phobya makes pretty good led fans as well as corsair but I'm not sure if corsair is making an led version of their static pressure fans so you may be out of luck there.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm probly gonna use a Red JetFlo to run pull with an AP-00 for my exhaust. Don't know for sure which is better. CM advertises the JetFlo's as their newest/best rad fans.

And as Sunreeper said, CM is Infamous for lying about fan specs. So i wouldn't judge it by it's SP or dBA specs.

The Corsair AF's are supposed to be good chassis fans. I've never used em, but if their SP's are any indication then they should be top quality.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> so which one is better jetflo or xtraflow for radiator fan?
> 
> i may combine with eloop on the bottom and this fans on top.
> 
> do u guys use AF120 w/ led , how is the noise and brightness?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjJAAIsJ0kA&feature=share&list=UUVDejJ5_cx3JkYcrbV9Lk4A
Click to expand...


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I wouldn't go with cooler master fans they are known to outright lie on their fans specs. Phobya makes pretty good led fans as well as corsair but I'm not sure if corsair is making an led version of their static pressure fans so you may be out of luck there.


You can add led's to most fans. Holes are there. If they are not, you can drill them.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjJAAIsJ0kA&feature=share&list=UUVDejJ5_cx3JkYcrbV9Lk4A


+1 for finding a review for JetFlo's.
I wish he did the comparison with water/air delta instead of core/air delta though.

Does anybody know what that tall 120 rad mount is on his WaCoolit Bench? Or if it's the stock mount, where i can grab just the mount? I've never seen one that tall.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> You can add led's to most fans. Holes are there. If they are not, you can drill them.


Yeah, i did that with my Red/Black Phobya E-Loops with 15000mcd led's. Came out great!!!


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm probly gonna use a Red JetFlo to run pull with an AP-00 for my exhaust. Don't know for sure which is better. CM advertises the JetFlo's as their newest/best rad fans.
> 
> And as Sunreeper said, CM is Infamous for lying about fan specs. So i wouldn't judge it by it's SP or dBA specs.
> 
> The Corsair AF's are supposed to be good chassis fans. I've never used em, but if their SP's are any indication then they should be top quality.


Skip Corsair fans. They're overrated, used for a Corsair themed build mostly, and produced by a company that doesn't have the knowledge to make Noctua, Noiseblocker, or Scythe grade fans. Those and Gelid are the only companies I will use in any build, personal or paid. As for CoolerMaster JetFlo's, I've used them and heard them both inside and outside cases. They're quiet when undervolted from their max speed, and move quite a bit of air. Of course they're not going to be again like NoiseBlocker or Noctua fans, but for a fairly inexpensive fan- they're actually quite nice.

Undervolt them to 7V, and get noise isolation gear (rubber dampeners) or things of the sort.

/rant

-Zepp


----------



## Alex132

Cougar make great fans too


----------



## rickyman0319

Cougar has red and blue led fan but it doesnot have red or blue led fan for radiator.


----------



## morencyam

I still really like CM R4's. If you undervolt them to around 7v they are pretty quiet. I had six going at one point at 7v and noise was very tolerable. And they perform well. Not like GT's of course, but you're not paying that premium price either


----------



## wermad

Res is stained and I'm happy w/ the cable management. Sorry, I don't have the anal cable management/neurosis skills of some, so this works for me


----------



## ginger_nuts

What you talking about Wermad, that is a stella looking build.









Love the subtle touches of green with out over doing the black and white either.

Very well balanced.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res is stained and I'm happy w/ the cable management. Sorry, I don't have the anal cable management/neurosis skills of some, so this works for me


You ran the CPU hoses the same way I did initially, with the other hose going through the middle - you may regret that if you need to take the CPU block off for some reason.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What you talking about Wermad, that is a stella looking build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the subtle touches of green with out over doing the black and white either.
> 
> Very well balanced.


Thank you







. After many colored adventures, the res is starting to become an eyesore. May replace with something prettier


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> +1 for finding a review for JetFlo's.
> I wish he did the comparison with water/air delta instead of core/air delta though.
> 
> Does anybody know what that tall 120 rad mount is on his WaCoolit Bench? Or if it's the stock mount, where i can grab just the mount? I've never seen one that tall.
> Yeah, i did that with my Red/Black Phobya E-Loops with 15000mcd led's. Came out great!!!


No prob,just came across it a couple days ago on performance pc facebook page....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You ran the CPU hoses the same way I did initially, with the other hose going through the middle - you may regret that if you need to take the CPU block off for some reason.












The middle port is actually the inlet and the outer edge one is the outlet. Path: pump>...>gpu>120 rad>cpu>....>

If I need to remove the block, I drain the whole thing. That's the point of the drain line


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Res is stained and I'm happy w/ the cable management. Sorry, I don't have the anal cable management/neurosis skills of some, so this works for me


Have you tried soaking the res in detergent water?
Mine is a BP and stain was gone after soaking it in detergent water


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Have you tried soaking the res in detergent water?
> Mine is a BP and stain was gone after soaking it in detergent water


I was thinking about that but the tube sections have glued on pieces of acrylic to act as anti-cyclone and I don't want to mess w/ the adhesive there. Thinking of scrubbing it w/ a toothbrush and some acetone. Other then that, the pieces are cheap I may just buy them (~$8 ea.).


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res is stained and I'm happy w/ the cable management. Sorry, I don't have the anal cable management/neurosis skills of some, so this works for me


Your build makes my OCD go off the charts LOL. What is your goals with temps and how many pumps are you running you will need atleast 3 from what I can see


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Your build makes my OCD go off the charts LOL. What is your goals with temps and how many pumps are you running you will need atleast 3 from what I can see


*One* 35X









Temps were never a concern. Only how many rads can I squeeze in a TH10


----------



## szeged

damn wermad, that build in the th10 is looking awesome, cant wait to sell this 900D and get workin in the sth10









now.. i need to get more rads


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Your build makes my OCD go off the charts LOL. What is your goals with temps and how many pumps are you running you will need atleast 3 from what I can see
> 
> 
> 
> *One* 35X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps were never a concern. Only how many rads can I squeeze in a TH10
Click to expand...

Dont you think you need more than one pump for the amount of RAD space you have


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Dont you think you need more than one pump for the amount of RAD space you have


Nope. Have ran this same 35x in large and complex loops before. 2nd pump is more redundancy then help imho.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The middle port is actually the inlet and the outer edge one is the outlet. Path: pump>...>gpu>120 rad>cpu>....>
> 
> If I need to remove the block, I drain the whole thing. That's the point of the drain line


I mean that the tube from the GPU to the radiator goes between the two CPU tubes, so if you ever needed to remove the CPU block (to replace the paste, say) you are limited in how far you can move the CPU block. You can't just flip it over out of the way because it is limited to the space under the GPU tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I mean that the tube from the GPU to the radiator goes between the two CPU tubes, so if you ever needed to remove the CPU block (to replace the paste, say) you are limited in how far you can move the CPU block. You can't just flip it over out of the way because it is limited to the space under the GPU tubing.


I've had similar setups before, and I had no issues nudging out the cpu block. But as I've mentioned, I just drain the loop


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Skip Corsair fans. They're overrated, used for a Corsair themed build mostly, and produced by a company that doesn't have the knowledge to make Noctua, Noiseblocker, or Scythe grade fans. Those and Gelid are the only companies I will use in any build, personal or paid. As for CoolerMaster JetFlo's, I've used them and heard them both inside and outside cases. They're quiet when undervolted from their max speed, and move quite a bit of air. Of course they're not going to be again like NoiseBlocker or Noctua fans, but for a fairly inexpensive fan- they're actually quite nice.
> 
> Undervolt them to 7V, and get noise isolation gear (rubber dampeners) or things of the sort.
> 
> /rant
> 
> -Zepp


Which NB fans do you prefer, the e-Loops? or BlackSilentPro? or Multiframe?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Which NB fans do you prefer, the e-Loops? or BlackSilentPro? or Multiframe?


e-Loops and BlackSilent Pro. love all of mine. never bought the multiframe cos i thought it looked garish.


----------



## szeged

do the E-loops still have the problem where the fins hit the radiators when used in a pull config?


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Which NB fans do you prefer, the e-Loops? or BlackSilentPro? or Multiframe?


Follow up question: I heard the e-Loops are noisy in pull on a rad. True or false?
and following that, which is better for a SR-1 rad?


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> e-Loops and BlackSilent Pro. love all of mine. never bought the multiframe cos i thought it looked garish.


I'll probably get the BSP mostly cause the eloops doesn't come in 140mm.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Follow up question: I heard the e-Loops are noisy in pull on a rad. True or false?
> and following that, which is better for a SR-1 rad?


Dunno if that's still a problem. As for the SR-1 rad them both will be just fine.


----------



## steelkevin

Hi guys,

I finally got around to topping off my reservoir which was almost empty since I added my R9 290 to the loop about a week ago. My loop is now complete, the only updates that I'll be doing for, hopefully, the next year, will be replacing the rear FD Fan and the two Yate Loons by three more Akasa Apache fans. The PSU is loud when mining so that'll probably be swapped out whenever I can too. I'll probably eventually get rid of all the random fittings and replace them by black matte Bitspowers or whatever, might even end up finally getting 10/13mm ones with that magic plasticizer free tubing. Anyway here you go







:





Spoiler: Warning: MORE PICTURES !


----------



## badkarma3059

Nice clean rig! If you are looking for a quiet power supply Seasonic platinum units are awesome. I never here my 860W


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> Nice clean rig! If you are looking for a quiet power supply Seasonic platinum units are awesome. I never here my 860W


Thank you







.

About the PSU, I never heard mine in over three years until two or three days ago when I started mining. Those seasonics are quit expensive too :/. Anyway, I've got a car to fix so the computer will have to wait a while :'(


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I finally got around to topping off my reservoir which was almost empty since I added my R9 290 to the loop about a week ago. My loop is now complete, the only updates that I'll be doing for, hopefully, the next year, will be replacing the rear FD Fan and the two Yate Loons by three more Akasa Apache fans. The PSU is loud when mining so that'll probably be swapped out whenever I can too. I'll probably eventually get rid of all the random fittings and replace them by black matte Bitspowers or whatever, might even end up finally getting 10/13mm ones with that magic plasticizer free tubing. Anyway here you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: MORE PICTURES !


Some sleeve's would be nice.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Follow up question: I heard the e-Loops are noisy in pull on a rad. True or false?
> and following that, which is better for a SR-1 rad?


It's cuz the blades are shaped so they bulge out the front a tiny bit. You can use em in pull with even a 3mm gasket, but they'll sound a little different


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> Some sleeve's would be nice.


Can' t disagree there but when I could've afforded it I didn't because I would've had to purchase all the necessary tools and because I always knew my PSU was "no good" and I'll have to spend hundreds if not worse to get my car fixed. And sleeving never was a top priority anyway. When you've got a really tight budget you know what's really important and what's not so you've got kind of a list in your head and you know what's next. Next thing on my list is a proper monitor (the Asus or BenQ 24" ones). Sleeving is way down at the bottom of my imaginary list to be completely honest







.


----------



## kpoeticg

Could always just buy a few extensions for the cables that are showing....


----------



## wermad

Extensions can get really expensive or you can buy some paracord, heatshrink, and a pin removal tool kit. Probably spend about the same for a single gpu setup but for mine, it was cheaper then blowing +$100 on extension. Its a pita but at least I got the chance to be creative with the colors









@ SteelKevin, making me wanna go w/ Pastel Mint Green


----------



## kpoeticg

True, Paracord's definitely a cheaper option

It's too damn easy to tell people they should spend money


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Which NB fans do you prefer, the e-Loops? or BlackSilentPro? or Multiframe?


I don't like the Multiframes personally. I'll use the PL and PK series fans (the BlackSilentPro's) for radiator fans, and eLoops for case fans. Be careful about the eLoops as intakes, because the blades stick out as I'm sure you know. But they're simply amazing fans









-Zepp


----------



## JAM3S121

Does anyone use the black ice products from bitspower? I was looking at the intel cpu block, 140ml reservoir, and gtx 780 block.. I am just not sure how it would look with white pastel coolant or blue pastel coolant. I know how the clear would look.

Also, should I just do male to male fitting on a bitspower reservoir and ddc pump mounted with a ddc heatsink/stand drilled.. or go ahead and buy the bitspower kit so its flush?

are these also good fans? I plan to use a lamptron fc5v3 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21293/fan-1264/Noiseblocker_Alphacool_NB-eLoop_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_2300_RPM_-_3325_dBA_Black_Blue_Edition.html?tl=g36c15s60#blank


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Does anyone use the black ice products from bitspower? I was looking at the intel cpu block, 140ml reservoir, and gtx 780 block.. I am just not sure how it would look with white pastel coolant or blue pastel coolant. I know how the clear would look.
> 
> Also, should I just do male to male fitting on a bitspower reservoir and ddc pump mounted with a ddc heatsink/stand drilled.. or go ahead and buy the bitspower kit so its flush?
> 
> are these also good fans? I plan to use a lamptron fc5v3 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21293/fan-1264/Noiseblocker_Alphacool_NB-eLoop_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_2300_RPM_-_3325_dBA_Black_Blue_Edition.html?tl=g36c15s60#blank


I am doing the male to male fitting between pump and res becsuse I think the kit is a rip off. Look at what the kit comes with and compare it to the res alone. For instance the res alone comes with a better bottom and plugs.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone use the black ice products from bitspower? I was looking at the intel cpu block, 140ml reservoir, and gtx 780 block.. I am just not sure how it would look with white pastel coolant or blue pastel coolant. I know how the clear would look.
> 
> Also, should I just do male to male fitting on a bitspower reservoir and ddc pump mounted with a ddc heatsink/stand drilled.. or go ahead and buy the bitspower kit so its flush?
> 
> 
> are these also good fans? I plan to use a lamptron fc5v3 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21293/fan-1264/Noiseblocker_Alphacool_NB-eLoop_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_2300_RPM_-_3325_dBA_Black_Blue_Edition.html?tl=g36c15s60#blank


Yeah, they're great fans.


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I am doing the male to male fitting between pump and res becsuse I think the kit is a rip off. Look at what the kit comes with and compare it to the res alone. For instance the res alone comes with a better bottom and plugs.


But do you then use the cap with the one centered plug or the cap with the 3 plugs for the male to male method? I don't know if having the feed lime on top is going to cause noise?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> But do you then use the cap with the one centered plug or the cap with the 3 plugs for the male to male method? I don't know if having the feed lime on top is going to cause noise?


I use the cap with the centered hole for the male to male (bottom) method. There are plenty of people here on OCN who do the same thing without complaining of extra noise. Snef did it here

Also here is a picture of what mine looks like so far.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## JAM3S121

Thanks for the reply, so you can also fit the swiftech heatsink/stand? not sure how I Want to mount yet


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I was thinking about that but the tube sections have glued on pieces of acrylic to act as anti-cyclone and I don't want to mess w/ the adhesive there. Thinking of scrubbing it w/ a toothbrush and some acetone. Other then that, the pieces are cheap I may just buy them (~$8 ea.).


Try bleach? As a tea drinker my mugs tend to pick up stains after a while and the best way to deal with this has been simply to fill them with water and mix in a few drops of bleach. Leave for half and hour and they're like new, no need for brushing or anything.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Try bleach? As a tea drinker my mugs tend to pick up stains after a while and the best way to deal with this has been simply to fill them with water and mix in a few drops of bleach. Leave for half and hour and they're like new, no need for brushing or anything.


Thought about that too but the tube bodies have a piece of acylic glued inside to act as an anti-cyclone. I'm worried It will eat the adhesive with harsh chemicals like bleach or acetate. I found the reservoir bodies at ppcs.com for $8 each so I may just replace them.


----------



## JAM3S121

Will noiseblocker eloops make a lot of noise if they are exhausting pushing air upwards thru a rad? I'm reading something about how they make a certain noise but can't figure out if this will be ok


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Will noiseblocker eloops make a lot of noise if they are exhausting pushing air upwards thru a rad? I'm reading something about how they make a certain noise but can't figure out if this will be ok


Its fine. I have'em in pull too.


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys, what is the general rule of thumb when it comes to rinsing out/cleaning brand new wc parts before first use?

I've heard 99% isopropyl alcohol, warm vinegar, and just plain old distilled water. Is there a topic or a sticky that covers this?

Also, my PrimoChill LRT tubing came with a small bottle of a liquid that they mention I need to use before first use. Any thoughts on this?


----------



## Anoxy

I didn't clean any of my parts out before installing....whoops. Too late now though!

Also curious about the Primochill sys-prep liquid. Is that necessary?


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys, what is the general rule of thumb when it comes to rinsing out/cleaning brand new wc parts before first use?
> 
> I've heard 99% isopropyl alcohol, warm vinegar, and just plain old distilled water. Is there a topic or a sticky that covers this?
> 
> Also, my PrimoChill LRT tubing came with a small bottle of a liquid that they mention I need to use before first use. Any thoughts on this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I didn't clean any of my parts out before installing....whoops. Too late now though!
> 
> Also curious about the Primochill sys-prep liquid. Is that necessary?


I have always just flushed with good ole distilled H20! Run it through your loop for a little bit, drain, and you should be good to go!


----------



## ledzepp3

Aaaannnndddddd now my wallet weeps.

-Zepp


----------



## p5ych00n5

Hey all, long time no see







. I seem to have something gimping my loop, @ stock there's a +15 delta at idle over ambient and with my OC (4.0 on a 1090T) it shoots up to +18 at idle (5 runs of IBT standard, temps got up to 63 degrees).
It is currently 30 degrees C in my room so I don't want to push the rig too far in this heat, and I have reseated the cpu and applied new Tim, time for a flushout?

Cheers in advance
p5ych00n5


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aaaannnndddddd now my wallet weeps.
> 
> -Zepp


My god and I thought I spent heaps with $757 as of today


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

How often do you guys top off your reservoirs? I got done with my loop about a month ago, and already needs to be topped off. I checked for leaks, but everything seems ok.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> How often do you guys top off your reservoirs? I got done with my loop about a month ago, and already needs to be topped off. I checked for leaks, but everything seems ok.


Air bubbles mate, nothing bad







check your fittings just to be sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> My god and I thought I spent heaps with $757 as of today


Doesn't count the 350+ I've spend on fans and other cooling, plus the previous orders I've made.. There's been at least 3-4 $200 orders before this big one









-Zepp


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Air bubbles mate, nothing bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check your fittings just to be sure.
> Doesn't count the 350+ I've spend on fans and other cooling, plus the previous orders I've made.. There's been at least 3-4 $200 orders before this big one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Thanks for the input.









Checked every fitting, and everything seems fine. might just be the air bubbles and pockets.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked every fitting, and everything seems fine. might just be the air bubbles and pockets.


If you orient your radiators with the ports at the bottom, it can make air a lot harder to bleed out of the loop. Plus there's little tiny bubbles everywhere you could possibly think









-Zepp


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Doesn't count the 350+ I've spend on fans and other cooling, plus the previous orders I've made.. There's been at least 3-4 $200 orders before this big one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Lol thats true, fans alone I spent $120, love dem AP-15's even if they are $20 each









I worked out on my whole rig I've spent around $4500... not including sleeing, video cables, rebuilding desks etc









This is an expensive hobb.... way of life we have


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aaaannnndddddd now my wallet weeps.
> 
> -Zepp


PPCs just started carrying the new BP Acrylic Fittings...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys, what is the general rule of thumb when it comes to rinsing out/cleaning brand new wc parts before first use?
> 
> I've heard 99% isopropyl alcohol, warm vinegar, and just plain old distilled water. Is there a topic or a sticky that covers this?
> 
> Also, my PrimoChill LRT tubing came with a small bottle of a liquid that they mention I need to use before first use. Any thoughts on this?


I use a Pond Pump, GE House Filter, & Distilled


----------



## VSG

I got one of the new bitspower air exhaust fittings and I can't wait to try this out for loop bleeding.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i'm gonna grab one of those exhaust fittings for the 7th port on my 120 UT60


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I gotta say this, you guys have such elaborate set ups for cleaning and flushing rads and blocks, all I do is stick some water in use the G1/4 plugs I got and give her a good shake for a min or 2


----------



## ryanallan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aaaannnndddddd now my wallet weeps.
> 
> -Zepp


Nice, will have to let us know how the 290X preforms under water.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I got one of the new bitspower air exhaust fittings and I can't wait to try this out for loop bleeding.


Curious about these myself. Is there a review anywhere?


----------



## VSG

It's in my hands right now- you press down to form a tiny connection like with a Koolance QD3. A bit ofliquid will also leak out but a lot more air. Pressing down in quick bursts would probably work best.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Hey all, long time no see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I seem to have something gimping my loop, @ stock there's a +15 delta at idle over ambient and with my OC (4.0 on a 1090T) it shoots up to +18 at idle (5 runs of IBT standard, temps got up to 63 degrees).
> It is currently 30 degrees C in my room so I don't want to push the rig too far in this heat, and I have reseated the cpu and applied new Tim, time for a flushout?
> 
> Cheers in advance
> p5ych00n5


I don't know your loop configuration, but I would think that with those temperatures you probably have a restriction somewhere that's impeding your flow. Do you have a reservoir that you can actively see the coolant moving in it? If so, have you noticed a difference in the movement of the coolant? I had something similar happen to my loop about six months ago and it turned out to be a piece of debris that got stuck in my CPU block.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's in my hands right now- you press down to form a tiny connection like with a Koolance QD3. A bit ofliquid will also leak out but a lot more air. Pressing down in quick bursts would probably work best.


So its a manual effort? Doesn't seem so efficient.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, like if you have air bubbles, you press down on that to bleed the air
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I gotta say this, you guys have such elaborate set ups for cleaning and flushing rads and blocks, all I do is stick some water in use the G1/4 plugs I got and give her a good shake for a min or 2


I saw that youtube vid by LazyMan of WestCoastMods and had to try it myself. Works great


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> So its a manual effort? Doesn't seem so efficient.


It's not like you would need to do this once the loop is set, and if this replaces having to manhandle your case to get the air bubbles out I classify this as a win.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's not like you would need to do this once the loop is set, and if this replaces having to manhandle your case to get the air bubbles out I classify this as a win.


Agreed


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aaaannnndddddd now my wallet weeps.
> 
> -Zepp


Lol. I know the feeling. I spent $1200 on mine.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I gotta say this, you guys have such elaborate set ups for cleaning and flushing rads and blocks, all I do is stick some water in use the G1/4 plugs I got and give her a good shake for a min or 2


My method as well. The only thing that came out of mine was a few paint chips that got knocked in when I threaded my fittings onto the rads.


----------



## jleslie246

My air bleeding method: the "Epley maneuver" used for ear problems, works well to get air out of your system.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> My method as well. The only thing that came out of mine was a few paint chips that got knocked in when I threaded my fittings onto the rads.


I did flush one of mine with a pump etc but it was just to much hassle connecting everything up to flush it for a few mins and it wastes heaps of water to









That being said I need to give them a good flush, been sitting in my case doing nothing for 3 weeks, god knows how much cat hairs in there now


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't know your loop configuration, but I would think that with those temperatures you probably have a restriction somewhere that's impeding your flow. Do you have a reservoir that you can actively see the coolant moving in it? If so, have you noticed a difference in the movement of the coolant? I had something similar happen to my loop about six months ago and it turned out to be a piece of debris that got stuck in my CPU block.


Yep I was thinking the same with the gunk, I recently (3 Months) installed a 120 rad but I only did a quick rinse so maybe not thoroughly enough. My loop order - Res>Pump>120 Rad>CPU>360 Rad>Gpu Block>GPU Block (connected with a swiftech universal Bridge)

EK 400 Res
Koolance rebranded D5/EK Pumptop
Koolance CPU 370 Block
XSPC Universal GPU Blocks/Swiftech Unirsal Bridge
Alphacool NexXxos XT 45 120 Rad
Black Ice GT Stealth 360 Rad
Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing.
4 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 Fans @2000RPM

One of my 6850 died but I havent really had the time to dismantle the loop to remove it

_EDIT_ Current Ambient is 32 degrees Celcius, CPU is hovering @ 48 degrees Celsius Each core is 36 degrees. Optimised defaults loaded


----------



## JAM3S121

Would a AX360 radiator be enough to cool a gtx 770 and i7 950 (@1.33vcore)

I can add another radiator... but the cost of 2 noiseblocker fans would put me over my limit.. I am trying to make no compromises and do everything right the first time though.

also does anyone have a clue if gtx 780 blocks work with the 770?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Lol. I know the feeling. I spent $1200 on mine.


Damn, you bested me by less than $7









-Zepp


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I've asked this once, I just wanna ask to make 100% sure

So after seeing my pump top and res together finally Im considering going for a kinda dark smoked blackish grey look, think that would give my rig an interesting touch and break up from all the black

Question is if I dyed, yes dyed my Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Acrylic and Bitspower Dual/Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 res and got the dye inside the res and top would it stuff up the pump, rad, blocks etc with the dye running?

Thanks







sorry I know its probably a stupid question


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Would a AX360 radiator be enough to cool a gtx 770 and i7 950 (@1.33vcore)
> 
> I can add another radiator... but the cost of 2 noiseblocker fans would put me over my limit.. I am trying to make no compromises and do everything right the first time though.


I think that would be fine. I have a 280 and a 120 cooling my 4770K/290 and it's keeping them comfortably cool.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's in my hands right now- you press down to form a tiny connection like with a Koolance QD3. A bit ofliquid will also leak out but a lot more air. Pressing down in quick bursts would probably work best.


Looks interesting. Is there a best spot to put it in your loop? Or just anywhere theres an open G 1/4?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Watercooling loop is finally in and ready, gonna fill and bleed it tomorrow morning but for now Im gonna admire how sexy it is











Its taken weeks of stuffing around with wrong pump tops and forgetting to order stuff but its slowly paying off. Also I will add a GPU waterblock when/if I buy a 780


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Watercooling loop is finally in and ready, gonna fill and bleed it tomorrow morning but for now Im gonna admire how sexy it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its taken weeks of stuffing around with wrong pump tops and forgetting to order stuff but its slowly paying off. Also I will add a GPU waterblock when/if I buy a 780


Glad to see your build completed







, what gpu are you using for now....?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Glad to see your build completed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , what gpu are you using for now....?


Using a Gigabyte GTX 670 atm, wanna get a better card but I'll probably have my 670 till the 800 series comes out


----------



## szeged

hello gentlemen, i will be replacing one of my xspc EX 480 rads in the coming week and i have the option to get an alphacool UT60 480 for $100 shipped, or a black ice sr1 480 for $100 shipped, which in your opinions should i go for? i will be using 1450 rpm fans in push pull on whichever rad i get.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hello gentlemen, i will be replacing one of my xspc EX 480 rads in the coming week and i have the option to get an alphacool UT60 480 for $100 shipped, or a black ice sr1 480 for $100 shipped, which in your opinions should i go for? i will be using 1450 rpm fans in push pull on whichever rad i get.


I personally would go for the Alphacool - purely for the extra port options - given very similar performance at your fan speed
Bundy's rad round up (360 rads) shows the following

Alphacool has higher flow rate.
very similar performance with fan speed at 1500 rpm, with the SR1 just slightly better.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I personally would go for the Alphacool - purely for the extra port options - given very similar performance at your fan speed
> Bundy's rad round up (360 rads) shows the following
> 
> Alphacool has higher flow rate.
> very similar performance with fan speed at 1500 rpm, with the SR1 just slightly better.


cool thanks, interesting though, from what i read on martinsliquidlab.org the ut60 was ahead of the sr1 in performance in pretty much every test by a good 10c or so, except for the ultra low rpm fans.

Do you know if the UT60 comes with enough bolts to attach 8 fans in push/pull? or will i have to search the globe for some m3 bolts?

Gonna do some more reading up before i decide which one to buy, hopefully they dont both get bought out from under me lol.


----------



## Forceman

My XT45 came with enough bolts for push-pull (16) so presumably the UT60 would as well.


----------



## szeged

thanks, man this is a tough one lol, i want both







just cant decide which one to get =\ i dont know if i would need the extra ports of the ut60, though i do like the idea of the screw protection thing







meanwhile the HWL rad just looks amazing overall especially for low rpm fans.

im gonna end up getting both or something lol.


----------



## fast_fate

Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm

this is what you get in the UT60 package.

Extent of delivery:
1x Radiator
5x Copper-plated screw plug
16x Copper-plated M3x30mm hexagon socket screw
16x Copper-plated M3x35mm hexagon socket screw

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but if I had to guess...
30mm is to attach directly to rad with maybe a silcone gasket or grill.
35 would be for mounting to case with gasket and grill.
Just my guess ??

I never used them because they are all copper plated, and the color never suited me.
If your the same and don't fancy the copper color screw heads, either get ready to paint in your preferred color Or start ordering the M3 screws - easy to get on eBabes


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's in my hands right now- you press down to form a tiny connection like with a Koolance QD3. A bit ofliquid will also leak out but a lot more air. Pressing down in quick bursts would probably work best.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks interesting. Is there a best spot to put it in your loop? Or just anywhere theres an open G 1/4?
Click to expand...

For it to be able to work, you'd have to put it somewhere where there's a natural accumulation of entrapped air . . . .

Like at the highest point or the top of the res.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hello gentlemen, i will be replacing one of my xspc EX 480 rads in the coming week and i have the option to get an alphacool UT60 480 for $100 shipped, or a black ice sr1 480 for $100 shipped, which in your opinions should i go for? i will be using 1450 rpm fans in push pull on whichever rad i get.


Jeeez man, that's a no brainer . . .









A HWL rad for the same price of the Alphacool ! ! ! . . .

Worth going for the SR 1 just on build quality and finish alone!

HWL also uses M4, so things seem a bit more secure.

Darlene

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The UT60 and the SR1 are both 9 FPI I believe, so they both are designed to work with low speed fans.

If you look at Bundy's testing the UT60 does better with lower speed fans, and the SR1 a little better with higher fan speeds.

That's pretty much the opposite of what Martin found. He's got the SR1 doing better than the UT60 at 600 rpm speed, but losing at every tested rpm higher than that.

Seems a tossup to me.

I'd personally go with the Alphacool, as they come with more user-friendly features, but that's just me. I really like the screw protection, the plugs, and the extra ports as the top-facing ports in a top-mounted rad make for a great fill-port for a loop, and likewise the de-aeration / fill-port / drain plug on the opposite end in a bottom-mounted rad makes for a great drain port for a loop.

As far as screws go, I grabbed 100 black M3 30mm screws off Amazon for $12 or so ($5.50 + 7.50 Shipping. lol). Was a better deal that anything I found on ebay at the time. The copper screws that come with an Alphacool rad are pretty cool, but didn't agree with my color-scheme.

That said, the silver screws that come with a HWL rad - and I think they only give you 4 iirc (edit - I meant for screws for one side - push or pull, not '4' lol) , look terrible imho, but again, that's just me. I guess if I had other silver anything in my build might be different.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The UT60 and the SR1 are both 9 FPI I believe, so they both are designed to work with low speed fans.
> 
> If you look at Bundy's testing the UT60 does better with lower speed fans, and the SR1 a little better with higher fan speeds.
> 
> That's pretty much the opposite of what Martin found. He's got the SR1 doing better than the UT60 at 600 rpm speed, but losing at every tested rpm higher than that.
> 
> Seems a tossup to me.
> 
> I'd personally go with the Alphacool, as they come with more user-friendly features, but that's just me. I really like the screw protection, the plugs, and the extra ports as the top-facing ports in a top-mounted rad make for a great fill-port for a loop, and likewise the de-aeration / fill-port / drain plug on the opposite end in a bottom-mounted rad makes for a great drain port for a loop.
> 
> As far as screws go, I grabbed 100 black M3 30mm screws off Amazon for $12 or so ($5.50 + 7.50 Shipping. lol). Was a better deal that anything I found on ebay at the time. The copper screws that come with an Alphacool rad are pretty cool, but didn't agree with my color-scheme.
> 
> That said, the silver screws that come with a HWL rad - and I think they only give you 4 iirc (edit - I meant for screws for one side - push or pull, not '4' lol) , look terrible imho, but again, that's just me. I guess if I had other silver anything in my build might be different.


cool thanks, thinking im gonna go with the UT60 for now, maybe grab a monsta to compliment it later







i got a lot of space to fill, got a CL STH10 inc and my current rads wont do it justice.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Right watercoolers Im back with yet another problem with this crap







, put my loop together etc thought I'll chuck some water in it and let it bleed over night... well that aint happening, put some water in it, about 250ml, wanted to make sure the top wasnt gonna leak like the last stupid one, turned the pump on and it drank it up did it again 1cup this time and it didnt suck it through, thought the pump top or something was on wrong, check it all was good, tested the pump res combo with a single tube and a little bit of water, 250ml again and it pumped fine.

Am I doing something stupidly wrong or do my loop and parts really suck this bad?

Pump: XSPC D5 on 3, with the mod kit no way to change its speed once its in and filled

Mod Kit: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Pump Mod Kit Matte Black

Pump Top: Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Acrylic

Res: Bitspower Dual/Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150

Thanks


----------



## fast_fate

Oh man - you must be frustrated.
I just read your build log - what a comedy of errors







but your dialog is classic








But seriously - this is no good.
The loop looks OK (not my style) but functionable.
Pump not run dry ??
Air lock is all I can come up with - maybe a bit of case tilting ??


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Oh man - you must be frustrated.
> I just read your build log - what a comedy of errors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but your dialog is classic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously - this is no good.
> The loop looks OK (not my style) but functionable.
> Pump not run dry ??
> Air lock is all I can come up with - maybe a bit of case tilting ??


Im about to sell all this crap and go a H100i lol, I've have non stop problems with this and pretty much over it

I know the loops crap









But seriously no the pumps never been run dry, always run with distilled water

I did try that but didnt do anything, I can hear it struggling to suck water







but its not sucking any this is why Im so confused and sick of it









Thought about putting a little water in then running the pump while adding water but Im unsure about doing that


----------



## morencyam

I've experienced that problem too. It ended up being just air lock. I undid the plug on to of the res and the plug at the end of the drain line to let it fill and it started working fine after that. I noticed a drain line behind your pump/res. Pull it as high as you can and open that plug to let a little air escape.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've experienced that problem too. It ended up being just air lock. I undid the plug on to of the res and the plug at the end of the drain line to let it fill and it started working fine after that. I noticed a drain line behind your pump/res. Pull it as high as you can and open that plug to let a little air escape.


Thanks I'll try that tomorrow

I should say that the drain line is on the IN port of my top, only place I could see to put it to keep everything clean. you guys think this could be one of the reasons why Im having a problem, maybe the pumps trying to suck in from it and the res?


----------



## morencyam

That could be your problem then. There could be an air bubble stuck right at the base of the drain line that isn't letting water from the res into the pump. Yeah, just try getting that drain line full and see if that helps.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That could be your problem then. There could be an air bubble stuck right at the base of the drain line that isn't letting water from the res into the pump. Yeah, just try getting that drain line full and see if that helps.


Thanks I'll try tomorrow. if I have to I'll take the drain line out completely, just means it'll be a pita to drain









I might even move the drain line to the front where I have the 240 rad line in and maybe fill that first then the res, if worst comes to worst


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For it to be able to work, you'd have to put it somewhere where there's a natural accumulation of entrapped air . . . .
> 
> Like at the highest point or the top of the res.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Darlene


For this to work does the water table of the reservoir have to touch the bottom of the device? Thinking of getting this because its going to be really difficult to move my case around to bleed my loop.


----------



## Anoxy

So I just pulled the trigger on a Lamptron CW611, and it says that you can plug a pump into it and control RPMs (up to 12V).

Would it better to plug my MCP655-Drive into that or into the CPU header on my motherboard?

EDIT: actually, nevermind it looks like they're all 3-pin on the Lamptron so it must just allow you to monitor RPMs rather than change them.


----------



## VSG

This isn't really meant for the top of reservoirs unless you fill it up to the very top. For that purpose, aquacomputer has a pressure membrane fitting (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36724) that comes in a high version linked here and a lower profile version. The aquacomputer fitting is passive and is suited for closed reservoirs where trapped air can build up pressure and get released through the fitting.

The bitspower fitting is more useful as part of a loop. For example, if you have a rad at the top with two ports facing outwards you could then use one of those ports as a fill port and the other an air exhaust port in conjunction with this. For my case, I will be having this at the inlet of my top radiator (2 ports only) with a T-connector.


----------



## VSG

Hang on now, the CPU header is PWM but the lamptron controller seems to be all 3-pin voltage based. Is your pump controlled by PWM?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I just pulled the trigger on a Lamptron CW611, and it says that you can plug a pump into it and control RPMs (up to 12V).
> 
> Would it better to plug my MCP655-Drive into that or into the CPU header on my motherboard?
> 
> EDIT: actually, nevermind it looks like they're all 3-pin on the Lamptron so it must just allow you to monitor RPMs rather than change them.


The CW611 lets you control D5's just fine,I have one and have tested it with 2 D5's,did exceptionally well at reducing voltage down to 7v...barely enough to keep the D5 running...with no hiccups.
It can handle flowmeters too but its not good in this regard.

However,It has no PWM control. A mobo header will do just fine for that.
Set the BIOS to shut down or alert on CPU fan fail and you will get warned if the pump stops,free and easy failsafe.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Woo! Fans arrived and the rad mounts are painted,Fretsaw are FTW!







Alpenfohn 120mm PWM fans are as quiet as a grave and lookers too!
AMS sexytimes rads would of looked so much better in copper.....
More goodies to photo tomorrow...I needs daylight!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I just pulled the trigger on a Lamptron CW611, and it says that you can plug a pump into it and control RPMs (up to 12V).
> 
> Would it better to plug my MCP655-Drive into that or into the CPU header on my motherboard?
> 
> EDIT: actually, nevermind it looks like they're all 3-pin on the Lamptron so it must just allow you to monitor RPMs rather than change them.


If your D5 is PWM version, it's probably not a good idea to plug it directly into a fan header on a motherboard. Most mobo fan headers can handle a couple fans alright, but not anywhere near a D5 pump. You can connect the tach/rpm wire (white) and the PWM signal wire (blue) from the mobo, but the red and black wires should come from the PSU.

As far as the Lamptron goes. It can definitely control a D5 pump, but is meant to be used with the non-variable model. I don't know how well a PWM version D5 pump would respond to voltage control from a CW611 fan controller. I know the vario models don't like to be voltage controlled that way, but the PWM version I've not heard a word about before. I suspect it might be fine, but I don't know.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm
> 
> this is what you get in the UT60 package.
> 
> Extent of delivery:
> 1x Radiator
> 5x Copper-plated screw plug
> 16x Copper-plated M3x30mm hexagon socket screw
> 16x Copper-plated M3x35mm hexagon socket screw
> 
> Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but if I had to guess...
> 30mm is to attach directly to rad with maybe a silcone gasket or grill.
> 35 would be for mounting to case with gasket and grill.
> Just my guess ??
> 
> I never used them because they are all copper plated, and the color never suited me.
> 
> If your the same and don't fancy the copper color screw heads, either get ready to paint in your preferred color Or start ordering the M3 screws - easy to get on eBabes


The new ST30 240 i got after Alphacool started stocking them again came with all black screws. I dunno if it's just cuz its the ST30 or if its something new they started doing after they started shipping again....

I have 4 other NexXxos rads that came with copper screws


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For it to be able to work, you'd have to put it somewhere where there's a natural accumulation of entrapped air . . . .
> 
> Like at the highest point or the top of the res.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> For this to work does the water table of the reservoir have to touch the bottom of the device? Thinking of getting this because its going to be really difficult to move my case around to bleed my loop.
Click to expand...

I would think from its description that it would have to be above any liquid level, as pressing it seems to open a valve allowing whatever is "behind" it to escape.

Hence why I figured the top of a res above the air space, or as one poster mentioned as a fitting in the up facing port of the top rad, highest point in the loop location.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This isn't really meant for the top of reservoirs unless you fill it up to the very top. For that purpose, aquacomputer has a pressure membrane fitting (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36724) that comes in a high version linked here and a lower profile version. The aquacomputer fitting is passive and is suited for closed reservoirs where trapped air can build up pressure and get released through the fitting.
> 
> The bitspower fitting is more useful as part of a loop. For example, if you have a rad at the top with two ports facing outwards you could then use one of those ports as a fill port and the other an air exhaust port in conjunction with this. For my case, I will be having this at the inlet of my top radiator (2 ports only) with a T-connector.


The location you describe fits my highest point in the loop, if it works there, I don't see why it wouldn't work above the airspace in a res.

The membrane equalization fitting essentially works automatically, where as the BP is manual, to let air out or in to maintain the loop at about atmospheric pressure.

In a large volume loop with hard tubing, the membrane is probably a very good idea if you run the res near full with very little airspace.

Darlene

Ohhh wait, maybe I misread your post . . . .

You're locating it in the inlet to the rad?

Where there's water "behind" it ?

How's that going to let any air out?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The CW611 lets you control D5's just fine,I have one and have tested it with 2 D5's,did exceptionally well at reducing voltage down to 7v...barely enough to keep the D5 running...with no hiccups.
> It can handle flowmeters too but its not good in this regard.
> 
> However,It has no PWM control. A mobo header will do just fine for that.
> Set the BIOS to shut down or alert on CPU fan fail and you will get warned if the pump stops,free and easy failsafe.


This is good info, and important to anyone that has one of these (like me), because I tend to buy all PWM fans, and that has bitten me a bit in the tookus here, since I now have 20 TOTAL Cougar fans in PWM, and a CW611 that's voltage...

BUT THAT'S OK, because I plan to use the lovely Swiftech splitter to GREAT effect here!

Thanks - T


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> This is good info, and important to anyone that has one of these (like me), because I tend to buy all PWM fans, and that has bitten me a bit in the tookus here, since I now have 20 TOTAL Cougar fans in PWM, and a CW611 that's voltage...
> 
> BUT THAT'S OK, because I plan to use the lovely Swiftech splitter to GREAT effect here!
> 
> Thanks - T


Just FYI. There appears to be an issue with using our splitter with some fans. The issue is that with some brands the fans will run at full speed when more than four of the headers on the splitters are utilized. We're currently looking into this, but it appears to be with just certain brands. I don't yet have any information on the Cougar fans though. I just thought you'd like to know that there may be an issue if you use more than four of the headers on these splitters with certain fans.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The CW611 lets you control D5's just fine,I have one and have tested it with 2 D5's,did exceptionally well at reducing voltage down to 7v...barely enough to keep the D5 running...with no hiccups.
> It can handle flowmeters too but its not good in this regard.
> 
> However,It has no PWM control. A mobo header will do just fine for that.
> Set the BIOS to shut down or alert on CPU fan fail and you will get warned if the pump stops,free and easy failsafe.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just FYI. There appears to be an issue with using our splitter with some fans. The issue is that with some brands the fans will run at full speed when more than four of the headers on the splitters are utilized. We're currently looking into this, but it appears to be with just certain brands. I don't yet have any information on the Cougar fans though. I just thought you'd like to know that there may be an issue if you use more than four of the headers on these splitters with certain fans.


Yeah I saw that post, so I'll keep that in mind, but I have one to test with, and I already own the fans, so it's simply my first choice, as it's by far the simplest, and then from there (if that won't work) I have really no clue...

Thanks - T


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just FYI. There appears to be an issue with using our splitter with some fans. The issue is that with some brands the fans will run at full speed when more than four of the headers on the splitters are utilized. We're currently looking into this, but it appears to be with just certain brands. I don't yet have any information on the Cougar fans though. I just thought you'd like to know that there may be an issue if you use more than four of the headers on these splitters with certain fans.


Any issues with Corsair SP120 quiet and high performance pwm fans?


----------



## IT Diva

Nice little find here;

For you guys using 1/2" X 3/8" imperial tubing, whether Primochill or from McMaster etc. . . .

I found the near perfect insert cord for bending . . .

It doesn't seem as tight and "iffy" as the Primochill insert.

Its Buna N rubber, not silicone, so it isn't as burn proof, but it works fine at bending temps if you don't try to melt the tube.

It's 9 mm metric O-ring cord stock, which is 0.354" dia. . . . Just enough under 3/8" to push in easily and get it out again.

McMaster Carr part number: 9679K27 It comes in various lengths from 3' to 100'. . . . . $1.38 per foot,

I got a 10' length to experiment with.

Couple pics below of a quick small radius U-bend, and the cord pushed thru a short scrap and also all the way thru a full 6' length.

I found this cord to swell a bit more with heat, so I needed to let the bend get cold and the cord to cool as well before pulling it out easily.

Darlene


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Any issues with Corsair SP120 quiet and high performance pwm fans?


Actually, those are one of the ones that we've had particular issues with. We're not sure why exactly, but it looks like it might have something to do with the way Cosair implements PWM control for these fans.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hang on now, the CPU header is PWM but the lamptron controller seems to be all 3-pin voltage based. Is your pump controlled by PWM?


Yes, it's the PWM D5. That's why I edited because I realized all the headers on the lamptron are only 3-pin.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The CW611 lets you control D5's just fine,I have one and have tested it with 2 D5's,did exceptionally well at reducing voltage down to 7v...barely enough to keep the D5 running...with no hiccups.
> It can handle flowmeters too but its not good in this regard.
> 
> However,It has no PWM control. A mobo header will do just fine for that.
> Set the BIOS to shut down or alert on CPU fan fail and you will get warned if the pump stops,free and easy failsafe.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If your D5 is PWM version, it's probably not a good idea to plug it directly into a fan header on a motherboard. Most mobo fan headers can handle a couple fans alright, but not anywhere near a D5 pump. You can connect the tach/rpm wire (white) and the PWM signal wire (blue) from the mobo, but the red and black wires should come from the PSU.
> 
> As far as the Lamptron goes. It can definitely control a D5 pump, but is meant to be used with the non-variable model. I don't know how well a PWM version D5 pump would respond to voltage control from a CW611 fan controller. I know the vario models don't like to be voltage controlled that way, but the PWM version I've not heard a word about before. I suspect it might be fine, but I don't know.


Well now I'm confused. Two conflicting opinions here.

B NEGATIVE, you say my PWM pump can be plugged into the Motherboard CPU-fan header?

But Unicr0nhunter, you say I shouldn't connect it to the 4-pin CPU-Fan header? If that's the case, where else would I plug it in? The pump has a 2-pin connection (blue/green) and a 2-pin Molex connection (red/black).

If the Lamptron controls using voltage, wouldn't I want to connect that blue/green to the motherboard for control?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hang on now, the CPU header is PWM but the lamptron controller seems to be all 3-pin voltage based. Is your pump controlled by PWM?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it's the PWM D5. That's why I edited because I realized all the headers on the lamptron are only 3-pin.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The CW611 lets you control D5's just fine,I have one and have tested it with 2 D5's,did exceptionally well at reducing voltage down to 7v...barely enough to keep the D5 running...with no hiccups.
> It can handle flowmeters too but its not good in this regard.
> 
> However,It has no PWM control. A mobo header will do just fine for that.
> Set the BIOS to shut down or alert on CPU fan fail and you will get warned if the pump stops,free and easy failsafe.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If your D5 is PWM version, it's probably not a good idea to plug it directly into a fan header on a motherboard. Most mobo fan headers can handle a couple fans alright, but not anywhere near a D5 pump. You can connect the tach/rpm wire (white) and the PWM signal wire (blue) from the mobo, but the red and black wires should come from the PSU.
> 
> As far as the Lamptron goes. It can definitely control a D5 pump, but is meant to be used with the non-variable model. I don't know how well a PWM version D5 pump would respond to voltage control from a CW611 fan controller. I know the vario models don't like to be voltage controlled that way, but the PWM version I've not heard a word about before. I suspect it might be fine, but I don't know.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well now I'm confused. Two conflicting opinions here.
> 
> B NEGATIVE, you say my PWM pump can be plugged into the Motherboard CPU-fan header?
> 
> But Unicr0nhunter, you say I shouldn't connect it to the 4-pin CPU-Fan header? If that's the case, where else would I plug it in? The pump has a 2-pin connection (blue/green) and a 2-pin Molex connection (red/black).
> 
> If the Lamptron controls using voltage, wouldn't I want to connect that blue/green to the motherboard for control?
Click to expand...

Since you have the PWM version of the D5, you'll plug the 4 pin connector to the CPU header on the mobo and the molex to the PSU.

Others were talking about using the non PWM D5 with the 611.

If you want to have the 611 read out the pump's rpm, you could make up a splitter that runs the blue wire from the D5's 4 pin connector to the 3rd pin of the 611 in addition to the mobo.

You'll also need to set the output on that channel to anything above 28%, or it won't readout.

Take a look at the Lamptron CW611 thread for a lot of info and user feedback:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1357575/introducing-the-lamptron-cw611-water-cooling-assisted-fan-controller

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nice little find here;
> 
> For you guys using 1/2" X 3/8" imperial tubing, whether Primochill or from McMaster etc. . . .
> 
> I found the near perfect insert cord for bending . . .
> 
> It doesn't seem as tight and "iffy" as the Primochill insert.
> 
> Its Buna N rubber, not silicone, so it isn't as burn proof, but it works fine at bending temps if you don't try to melt the tube.
> 
> It's 8.5mm metric O-ring cord stock, which is 0.354" dia. . . . Just enough under 3/8" to push in easily and get it out again.
> 
> McMaster Carr part number: 9679K27 It comes in various lengths from 3' to 100'. . . . . $1.38 per foot,
> 
> I got a 10' length to experiment with.
> 
> Couple pics below of a quick small radius U-bend, and the cord pushed thru a short scrap and also all the way thru a full 6' length.
> 
> I found this cord to swell a bit more with heat, so I needed to let the bend get cold and the cord to cool as well before pulling it out easily.
> 
> Darlene


Good info,worth posting in the acrylic 101,if you can verify with repeated use then I will add to the first post...and give it a go myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hang on now, the CPU header is PWM but the lamptron controller seems to be all 3-pin voltage based. Is your pump controlled by PWM?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it's the PWM D5. That's why I edited because I realized all the headers on the lamptron are only 3-pin.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The CW611 lets you control D5's just fine,I have one and have tested it with 2 D5's,did exceptionally well at reducing voltage down to 7v...barely enough to keep the D5 running...with no hiccups.
> It can handle flowmeters too but its not good in this regard.
> 
> However,It has no PWM control. A mobo header will do just fine for that.
> Set the BIOS to shut down or alert on CPU fan fail and you will get warned if the pump stops,free and easy failsafe.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If your D5 is PWM version, it's probably not a good idea to plug it directly into a fan header on a motherboard. Most mobo fan headers can handle a couple fans alright, but not anywhere near a D5 pump. You can connect the tach/rpm wire (white) and the PWM signal wire (blue) from the mobo, but the red and black wires should come from the PSU.
> 
> As far as the Lamptron goes. It can definitely control a D5 pump, but is meant to be used with the non-variable model. I don't know how well a PWM version D5 pump would respond to voltage control from a CW611 fan controller. I know the vario models don't like to be voltage controlled that way, but the PWM version I've not heard a word about before. I suspect it might be fine, but I don't know.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well now I'm confused. Two conflicting opinions here.
> 
> B NEGATIVE, you say my PWM pump can be plugged into the Motherboard CPU-fan header?
> 
> But Unicr0nhunter, you say I shouldn't connect it to the 4-pin CPU-Fan header? If that's the case, where else would I plug it in? The pump has a 2-pin connection (blue/green) and a 2-pin Molex connection (red/black).
> 
> If the Lamptron controls using voltage, wouldn't I want to connect that blue/green to the motherboard for control?
Click to expand...

No,you want the power to stay at 12v,the PWM determines the duty cycle.
Unicron is confusing PWM fans with PWM pumps,the fans have an all in one 4 pin plug,the pumps have RPM and PWM with a separate 12v feed.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Actually, those are one of the ones that we've had particular issues with. We're not sure why exactly, but it looks like it might have something to do with the way Cosair implements PWM control for these fans.


Oh man, I just bought more fans for a push/pull config on both my 480mm rads. Is this for both quiet and high performance versions?

Anyone know if other splitters would work for 8 SP120s?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh man, I just bought more fans for a push/pull config on both my 480mm rads. Is this for both quiet and high performance versions?
> 
> Anyone know if other splitters would work for 8 SP120s?


Right now it looks like both versions of these fans and the issue appears to be related to the IC used for PWM control for these fans. The current used to carry the PWM signal for our fans is quite low, but it appears that Corsairs needs a higher current to register the PWM signal. Since this is the case once you plug in more than 4 fans the current becomes too low for the Corsair fans to detect it and they subsequently run at full speed. This has been confirmed by our engineer here.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right now it looks like both versions of these fans and the issue appears to be related to the IC used for PWM control for these fans. The current used to carry the PWM signal for our fans is quite low, but it appears that Corsairs needs a higher current to register the PWM signal. Since this is the case once you plug in more than 4 fans the current becomes too low for the Corsair fans to detect it and they subsequently run at full speed. This has been confirmed by our engineer here.


Bram I bought 2 of the 8-way splitters to run 10 Cougar Vortex PWM fans. Do you know if I'll run into the same problem?

Really hope it works out for me, if not I'll be


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Bram I bought 2 of the 8-way splitters to run 10 Cougar Vortex PWM fans. Do you know if I'll run into the same problem?
> 
> Really hope it works out for me, if not I'll be


It's possible. We haven't tested them as yet with any of the Cougar fans, so I don't have any data to give you at this time. It really is up to how these manufacturers implement PWM control on their fans.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hello gentlemen, i will be replacing one of my xspc EX 480 rads in the coming week and i have the option to get an alphacool UT60 480 for $100 shipped, or a black ice sr1 480 for $100 shipped, which in your opinions should i go for? i will be using 1450 rpm fans in push pull on whichever rad i get.


going back to this for a sec

decided to grab the UT60 480 and a monsta 480, on the look out for one more monsta 480 now









going with ap-15s for the monstas though so dont worry


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh man, I just bought more fans for a push/pull config on both my 480mm rads. Is this for both quiet and high performance versions?
> 
> Anyone know if other splitters would work for 8 SP120s?
> 
> 
> 
> Right now it looks like both versions of these fans and the issue appears to be related to the IC used for PWM control for these fans. The current used to carry the PWM signal for our fans is quite low, but it appears that Corsairs needs a higher current to register the PWM signal. Since this is the case once you plug in more than 4 fans the current becomes too low for the Corsair fans to detect it and they subsequently run at full speed. This has been confirmed by our engineer here.
Click to expand...

Sounded like a "fanout" sort of issue.

A little P channel mosfet circuitry should be able to add a lot of additional current sourcing capacity.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

So how has everyone else dealt with more than 4 PWM fans in the same area so far?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sounded like a "fanout" sort of issue.
> 
> A little P channel mosfet circuitry should be able to add a lot of additional current sourcing capacity.
> 
> Darlene


I'll pass that on to our engineer, but he has already said it's not our splitter that's the issue. It's either the motherboard, the fans, or both. Our splitter just splits the signal between the devices connected to it.


----------



## VSG

Then why is current the issue if the splitter is getting power straight from the PSU? I am just trying to understand where the limitation is, not questioning your product


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Then why is current the issue if the splitter is getting power straight from the PSU? I am just trying to understand where the limitation is, not questioning your product


The power supply just provides the necessary power to support the fans. The PWM signal is transmitted between the motherboard and the fans in order to adjust their speed. If this signal isn't being registered properly by the fans then they'll just run at full speed. It's either the motherboard isn't sending a strong enough signal or the fans are requiring a stronger signal than is being provided. I'm not an electrical engineer, but this is essentially what our engineer here has explained to me.


----------



## kpoeticg

It's funny cuz the Corsair Link PWM also operates on a different frequency than the normal 25kHZ. I was reading about that on the Corsair forums a few months ago. A Corsair Rep was saying how they only recommend Corsair PWM with Corsair Link because they use a specific frequency ( I forget what it was). That's probly why there's an issue with their fans too


----------



## VSG

So buying more PWM splitters is the only option? Bad Corsair


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sounded like a "fanout" sort of issue.
> 
> A little P channel mosfet circuitry should be able to add a lot of additional current sourcing capacity.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I'll pass that on to our engineer, but he has already said it's not our splitter that's the issue. It's either the motherboard, the fans, or both. Our splitter just splits the signal between the devices connected to it.
Click to expand...

I know it's not your splitter, it was a suggestion to make a second model with extra capacity.

It would be a "circuitry added" "Booster splitter", as an additional model, to allow the mobo PWM signal that's intended for only 2 CPU cooler fans to be mirrored with a much greater current sourcing capacity.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's funny cuz the Corsair Link PWM also operates on a different frequency than the normal 25kHZ. I was reading about that on the Corsair forums a few months ago. A Corsair Rep was saying how they only recommend Corsair PWM with Corsair Link because they use a specific frequency ( I forget what it was). That's probly why there's an issue with their fans too


You don't recall what the frequency was do you?

Very well could be part of the problem.

If it's significantly lower than 25KHz, it could be the switching IC's in the fans are especially sensitive to the 5V signal level at normal 25KHz and if multiple fans drop the signal voltage much below the 5V level, the switching IC's stop functioning normally.

Darlene


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Update from the annoying one again, slowly filling my loop but god damn the air doesnt wanna come out







, so at this point Im bleeding all the big bubbles out while I fill









Thought my setup would be easy


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Update from the annoying one again, slowly filling my loop but god damn the air doesnt wanna come out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so at this point Im bleeding all the big bubbles out while I fill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought my setup would be easy


How are you filling it? I filled mine with a large syringe through an open port in the top of my res. Doing it this way allowed the air to circulate back into the res (never back into the pump) and the air escaped through the top port.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You don't recall what the frequency was do you?
> 
> Very well could be part of the problem.
> 
> If it's significantly lower than 25KHz, it could be the switching IC's in the fans are especially sensitive to the 5V signal level at normal 25KHz and if multiple fans drop the signal voltage much below the 5V level, the switching IC's stop functioning normally.
> 
> Darlene


I ran a pair of Noctua fans with the Corsair Link on my H100i. the numbers were off slightly, but performance was still better than the supplied corsair fans.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So buying more PWM splitters is the only option? Bad Corsair


With my old Silver Arrow w/ three pwm fans, i was recommended to get a splitter like this:



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_451&products_id=25413


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> How are you filling it? I filled mine with a large syringe through an open port in the top of my res. Doing it this way allowed the air to circulate back into the res (never back into the pump) and the air escaped through the top port.


First I filled from my drain line so i knew it had water in it, my problem last night was the drain line was full of air, then seeing I filled from the drain line the pump and pump top were kinda full thats when I started filling from the res, only have a funnel and a measuring cup tho









Its getting there I just heard a heap of water go into my top rad so I guess thats a good sign, also gotta say Im loving 7/16 tube on 1/2 barbs, no leaks what so ever


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> With my old Silver Arrow w/ three pwm fans, i was recommended to get a splitter like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_451&products_id=25413


That essentially does the same thing as the Swiftech splitter. I'd be surprised to find that the issue the Swiftech rep is describing didn't also happen when using the same fans with that type of PWM splitter.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So buying more PWM splitters is the only option? Bad Corsair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With my old Silver Arrow w/ three pwm fans, i was recommended to get a splitter like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_451&products_id=25413
Click to expand...

FWIW:

That harness version is electrically the same thing as the Switech PCB based version.

Darlene


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I know it's not your splitter, it was a suggestion to make a second model with extra capacity.
> 
> It would be a "circuitry added" "Booster splitter", as an additional model, to allow the mobo PWM signal that's intended for only 2 CPU cooler fans to be mirrored with a much greater current sourcing capacity.
> 
> Darlene


I'll pass this on to Stephen our engineer and see if that's possible.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

So if I'm understanding this right then there is not enough current on the PWM signal of each fan as it is split? So all that is needed is a circuit to boost the current on the PWM line?


----------



## Roxycon

I have 12 arctic cooling pwm fans, 3 phanteks fans and one akasa retail fan (wich is connected on the 3pin pwm board on the enthoo primo) off of the corsair link, and i would say the link provides a better control of the fans than my two pwm d5's directly on my motherboard..

My motherboard tends to throtle my pumps in idle, where the link tends to be more static like. The link handles my fans from 600 rpm at <35 degree celcius to 1200 rpm at 85 degrees (although my system dont get over 55-60 degrees) perfectly from idle to load to idle again, but sometime the control glitches and the fans go up in rpm, wich can be annoying, the reboot time on my system isnt something to complain about however









But i do not recomend using the link with 3pin fans.. Corsair should do some upgrades to the software to make the product as good irl as it is on paper


----------



## szeged

Hey guys, how do you think i should go about flushing out my d5 pump/top? just take it down remove the pump and run some water into inlets etc etc? Im thinking i got some gunk in it somewhere which is causing my water ph levels to go bonkers and eat my red dye =\


----------



## VSG

What kind of gunk can cause pH to drop?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What kind of gunk can cause pH to drop?


im thinking it might be something from the previous loop it was used in.


----------



## Anoxy

Somebody dropped a lemon in there


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question, if I just leave my pump on for a few hours without moving the case around that will still bleed it slowly wont it?

Got some big bubbles in my top rad and I think front rad to Im having trouble getting out









Not 100% sure if its full yet but I put about 1.25L into it and it sounds like its mostly full, res is still half full to


----------



## huhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question, if I just leave my pump on for a few hours without moving the case around that will still bleed it slowly wont it?
> 
> Got some big bubbles in my top rad and I think front rad to Im having trouble getting out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not 100% sure if its full yet but I put about 1.25L into it and it sounds like its mostly full, res is still half full to


The pump will only get rid of small bubbles, a large bubble in your rad will need to be removed by shaking and tipping on it's side.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huhh*
> 
> The pump will only get rid of small bubbles, a large bubble in your rad will need to be removed by shaking and tipping on it's side.


Damn, been doing that for the last hour









Thanks









Also do you bleed it with the res plug in or out? seen people do it both ways


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Also do you bleed it with the res plug in or out? seen people do it both ways


Won't make a difference. Any air "escaping" will just be replaced by air coming in. Just get the res as full as you can without spilling.


----------



## Anoxy

lol I'm so glad you're asking all these questions.....this will be me in 2 days time


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Won't make a difference. Any air "escaping" will just be replaced by air coming in. Just get the res as full as you can without spilling.


Ah ok thanks







only has the res half full








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> lol I'm so glad you're asking all these questions.....this will be me in 2 days time


Hahah yeah I've been on here asking questions for months, they must be sick of me by now


----------



## brandon6199

Noob questions inbound:

1. What type of metal is the following compression fitting made of? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10037/ex-tub-606/Bitspower_G14_Thread_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1609

2. What exactly is Acetal? Is it okay to have an Acetal EK SLI Bridge in a copper loop?

Or better yet, can anyone tell me if the following components I've chosen would have any issues when used together in the same loop when it comes to any type of corrosion due to mixing of metals?

EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ)

EK GeForce 780 GTX Ti VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acrylic (EK-FC780 GTX Ti)

Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator

Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator

EK Terminal Block - Dual Parallel 3-Slot - Black Acetal (EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot)

Bitspower G1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBCPF-CC5)

PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 1/2"ID x 3/4" OD - 10ft Retail Pack - Clear (PFLEXA10-34)

Thanks in advance


----------



## VSG

Acetal is a plastic and compression fittings are usually made of copper. Your list is perfectly fine


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Noob questions inbound:
> 
> 1. What type of metal is the following compression fitting made of? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10037/ex-tub-606/Bitspower_G14_Thread_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1609
> 
> 2. What exactly is Acetal? Is it okay to have an Acetal EK SLI Bridge in a copper loop?
> 
> Or better yet, can anyone tell me if the following components I've chosen would have any issues when used together in the same loop when it comes to any type of corrosion due to mixing of metals?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ)
> 
> EK GeForce 780 GTX Ti VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acrylic (EK-FC780 GTX Ti)
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator
> 
> EK Terminal Block - Dual Parallel 3-Slot - Black Acetal (EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot)
> 
> Bitspower G1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBCPF-CC5)
> 
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 1/2"ID x 3/4" OD - 10ft Retail Pack - Clear (PFLEXA10-34)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance


1. Brass painted black
2. Acetal is just a very strong thermoplastic. "Good fatigue life, low moisture sensitivity, high resistance to solvents and chemicals, and good electrical properties." Yes, it's fine to have in a copper loop.
3. All of those parts will be fine together.


----------



## brandon6199

Thanks guys


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Slightly confused, got all the big bubbles out etc and thought I'll hook her up and make sure the board ram and all that works and it all cools, which is all does







however this is where Im confused, I connected the little yellow wire from my D5 to my CPU header and it doesnt show anything in the bios







I thought that was ment to be an RPM read out for the pump? or am I mistaken?

Thanks


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Slightly confused, got all the big bubbles out etc and thought I'll hook her up and make sure the board ram and all that works and it all cools, which is all does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> however this is where Im confused, I connected the little yellow wire from my D5 to my CPU header and it doesnt show anything in the bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that was ment to be an RPM read out for the pump? or am I mistaken?
> 
> Thanks


I was told once you could use speed fan to monitor the pumps rpm never tried it tho....Well thats incase it doesnt/wont show in your bios.....


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I was told once you could use speed fan to monitor the pumps rpm never tried it tho....Well thats incase it doesnt/wont show in your bios.....


Ah ok, may as well plug it into the CPU OPT header then and disable the CPU one so my mobo doesnt complain every boot

Guess I'll be joining you lot of watercooling nuts now


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Slightly confused, got all the big bubbles out etc and thought I'll hook her up and make sure the board ram and all that works and it all cools, which is all does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> however this is where Im confused, I connected the little yellow wire from my D5 to my CPU header and it doesnt show anything in the bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that was ment to be an RPM read out for the pump? or am I mistaken?
> 
> Thanks


If you have a fan controller connect it to that, before I ripped the connector off the wire I had it connected to my Phobya fan controller and controlled RPM from there


----------



## wermad

I'm pretty happy hooking up all 52 R4s to the Mix 2 controller running @ 40% to not over power the controller. So quiet and temps are still yummy cool







.

PWM discussion in itself is so mind-boggling to me. One of the reasons I just can't bother with it







.


----------



## szeged

i had 22 r4's in a rig at full blast lol god i thought it was gonna fly off into the sunset the first time i turned it on.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i had 22 r4's in a rig at full blast lol god i thought it was gonna fly off into the sunset the first time i turned it on.


Mine sounds like an entire bee farm ready to annihilate me


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine sounds like an entire bee farm ready to annihilate me


that sounds about right


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> If you have a fan controller connect it to that, before I ripped the connector off the wire I had it connected to my Phobya fan controller and controlled RPM from there


Nah I only got an NZXT Fan Hub set to 5v for all my rad fans







, I'll either connect it to the mobo or leave it off, my D5 is set to 3 on its dial thing anyway

Was just confused as to why it didnt wanna show in the bios


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> that sounds about right


Low voltage control is nice on the R4s. I think the lowest I tested was ~2.5v using a Scythe controller. Still, @ 40% and 52 of them, the 35x at full power can be heard easily over the fans.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Low voltage control is nice on the R4s. I think the lowest I tested was ~2.5v using a Scythe controller. Still, @ 40% and 52 of them, the 35x at full power can be heard easily over the fans.


the loudest part of my rig atm is the one corsair high performance fan i got mixed up in the big box of quiet editions when i was installing everything lol, i cant figure out which one it is though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the loudest part of my rig atm is the one corsair high performance fan i got mixed up in the big box of quiet editions when i was installing everything lol, i cant figure out which one it is though.


Hahahaha









Time for the:


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hahahaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the:


lmao i was actually watching that today







had a marathon going.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, how do you think i should go about flushing out my d5 pump/top? just take it down remove the pump and run some water into inlets etc etc? Im thinking i got some gunk in it somewhere which is causing my water ph levels to go bonkers and eat my red dye =\


It won't be the pump top causing that,the rad (if anything,red dye is notoriously unstable) is the more likely culprit if its not been flushed properly.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It won't be the pump top causing that,the rad (if anything,red dye is notoriously unstable) is the more likely culprit if its not been flushed properly.


ive given the rads a better flushing than i do my toilet(lol) and still no dice on that, cleaned out the blocks and res, only thing i didnt do was the pump, was thinking it was that, Ill be getting new monsta rads in to replace the xspc ones i currently have anyways though, so ill give those a good rinse before i hook em up and hope it works.


----------



## wermad

I checked my naked di and its still clear. Just for testing, i grabbed a piece of white paper from the printer, som tp, and some paper towels. No more greenish dye in the liquid. But the res still has the staining. Break down is coming up soon. Not sure if I should just replace the tubes or get a new res. Craving a FrozenQ quad helix in green but they're swamped after their facility accident.


----------



## King4x4

Getting Titan Kurkis for my next build and I just heard about the PWM signal splitter issue.

Think I might end up and it's time to look for a signal booster to boost the PWM signal.

Gonna be splitting them up to 61 fans


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I checked my naked di and its still clear. Just for testing, i grabbed a piece of white paper from the printer, som tp, and some paper towels. No more greenish dye in the liquid. But the res still has the staining. Break down is coming up soon. Not sure if I should just replace the tubes or get a new res. Craving a FrozenQ quad helix in green but they're swamped after their facility accident.


what happened?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Getting Titan Kurkis for my next build and I just heard about the PWM signal splitter issue.
> 
> Think I might end up and it's time to look for a signal booster to boost the PWM signal.
> 
> Gonna be splitting them up to 61 fans


Glad I told you about this discussion. Though I'm no fan nor am I versed in pwm, I knew you would be interested







. More money to throw at your colossus build mate







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> what happened?


They had a fire. Some guys are waiting for over a month to get their order. It was already busy and this incident just made it worse. Alex has always been great and I do love the products. Was hopping a retailer had a green one but they're all out







.
Quote:


> Update: (11/25)
> 
> Unfortunately, I understand many of you are waiting on custom orders, and a lot of which are unhappy. We are working as hard as we can to get everyone a shipping date for their orders. We've been under a tremendous amount of pressure trying to get everything straightened out and some emails may have not been answered. Unfortunately there has been very little we can do, as our laser was destroyed and our shop closed for renovations for the past 3 weeks. We are working to get a new laser, but proceedings with insurance do take time. We are working with another company who has a laser cutter, but shipping and communication back and forth also takes time. We can issue refunds if it's absolutely necessary, but we ask that you consider letting us work it out first.
> 
> The N1 MCase reservoirs are ready, and getting faceplates right now, they will be ready to ship in the next few days.
> 
> Any Liquid Fusion reservoirs on order will ship by the end of next week, 12/6.
> 
> Any Fusion Dual Bay reservoirs on order will ship by mid next week, 12/4.
> 
> Any replacement part orders, we will ship over the next few days. If it involves clips or items that need laser cut, we are waiting on those to come in from our temporary cutter.


https://frozenqshop.gostorego.com

Want one of these so bad...........



......might have to wait as money now needs to go elsewhere







.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Slightly confused, got all the big bubbles out etc and thought I'll hook her up and make sure the board ram and all that works and it all cools, which is all does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> however this is where Im confused, I connected the little yellow wire from my D5 to my CPU header and it doesnt show anything in the bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that was ment to be an RPM read out for the pump? or am I mistaken?
> 
> Thanks


I had to hook mine up to one of the sys fan headers - it wouldn't read off the CPU fan header for me either.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

I have seen my gpu temps slowly rising (under gaming load) ,today i hit 53c in crysis 3 with an outside temp of 28c,normally i never go above 45-47c even tho 28c was with some humidity,wanted to ask you guys whats the highest temps i should ever consider a no-no temp,meaning if i ever go above a certain temp i need to check my loop for blockage or it would be time to re-apply tim of get better rads or even change the way my rads are....Currently running an EX 360 top exhaust (3x120 sp @ 1200 rpm) and a EX 240 bottom intake push/pull 2xsp quiet edition and 2 gelid wings @ 1200 rpm)....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I have seen my temps slowly rising,today i hit 53c in crysis 3 with an outside temp of 28c,normally i never go above 45-47c even tho 28c was with some humidity,wanted to ask you guys whats the highest temps i should ever consider a no-no temp,meaning if i ever go above a certain temp i need to check my loop for blockage or it would be time to re-apply tim of get better rads or even change the way my rads are....Currently running an EX 360 top exhaust (3x120 sp @ 1200 rpm) and a EX 240 bottom intake push/pull 2xsp quiet edition and 2 gelid wings @ 1200 rpm)....


It can vary, 53c is nothing to your cpu. I would say, 80-90, and most likely the system will shut down on its own. Unless your gaming and running other programs in the background, you won't see 60-75c which is still respectable for a heavy oc'd lga2011. I do recall my cpu temps were very inline w/ SB when I had my 3820 a couple of years ago. My i5 will hit 65c when we have the heater on and I'm benching it.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It can vary, 53c is nothing to your cpu. I would say, 80-90, and most likely the system will shut down on its own. Unless your gaming and running other programs in the background, you won't see 60-75c which is still respectable for a heavy oc'd lga2011. I do recall my cpu temps were very inline w/ SB when I had my 3820 a couple of years ago. My i5 will hit 65c when we have the heater on and I'm benching it.


Sorry about that wermad i should have mentioned it was my gpu's temps....


----------



## p5ych00n5

_EDIT_ Whoops never mind, late to the party









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I have seen my temps slowly rising,today i hit 53c in crysis 3 with an outside temp of 28c,normally i never go above 45-47c even tho 28c was with some humidity,wanted to ask you guys whats the highest temps i should ever consider a no-no temp,meaning if i ever go above a certain temp i need to check my loop for blockage or it would be time to re-apply tim of get better rads or even change the way my rads are....Currently running an EX 360 top exhaust (3x120 sp @ 1200 rpm) and a EX 240 bottom intake push/pull 2xsp quiet edition and 2 gelid wings @ 1200 rpm)....


I had a very similar problem where my loop would try and cook the CPU, I was getting an 48 degree idle temp @ 3.8 and even at stock (ambient was around 30 degrees) and IBT would lterally go well above 60 before I stopped lest I fry everything. I drained the loop did a 20:1 distilled/vinegar mix for 3 hours, pure distilled for 6 hours - another pure distilled for 10 hours, refilled/bled loop and temps dropped 8 degrees. I will monitor temps for the next few days as there could still be airpockets in the loop since it's still fresh. Usually a 10 degree difference (delta) is optimal I'm currently at 12 degrees delta, It also depends on the CPU in use, AMD are usually 55 degree threshold, anything over that I clock back.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Sorry about that wermad i should have mentioned it was my gpu's temps....


Hmmm, tad high but nothing major tbh. Mine didn't break 45c unless it was hot. Though all three were stock (edit: 3x EVGA GTX 780 SC), my loop was fairly large, and ambient was usually ~25-26c. Most of the time they hovered in the low 40s. if they start creeping up to 60c, then i would check the loop Technincally, they're designed to run at 70-90c w/ the stock cooler so even in your loop, it won't damage anything. EX rads are solid rads. Cpu ~40-50c at those clocks?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

I need to edit my previous post,was asking about gpu temps....sorry for the misunderstanding....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I need to edit my previous post,was asking about gpu temps....sorry for the misunderstanding....


Its not too bad and considering your ambient is a little higher then what I had, it should ok. Are you flashed and running higher clocks on the 780s?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its not too bad and considering your ambient is a little higher then what I had, it should ok. Are you flashed and running higher clocks on the 780s?


The cards are flashed but I mostly run between 1150-1200mhz depending on the game and volts is only at 1.121...


----------



## RickRockerr

Hi all, I got very strange problem and I think that I didn't change anything before this problem occur. When I boot up my pump have a delay (2-10sec) it wasn't problem before but now if the pump doesn't start right away when i boot my pc i get mem error or gpu error light. If pump starts normally there isn't any problems, I have already tested rams/updated bios/ tried stock settings. If i put pc to sleep and wake it up and the pump doesn't start right away my pc just restarts (cpu temps never hits 60c) after that it just keeps restarting until pump spins. This is just strange...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the loudest part of my rig atm is the one corsair high performance fan i got mixed up in the big box of quiet editions when i was installing everything lol, i cant figure out which one it is though.


Check out the amps rating on the back if that is visible to you. The quiet editions are .19A and the performance editions are .33A I believe.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New flowmeter for the S3.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys, what is the general rule of thumb when it comes to rinsing out/cleaning brand new wc parts before first use?
> 
> I've heard 99% isopropyl alcohol, warm vinegar, and just plain old distilled water. Is there a topic or a sticky that covers this?
> 
> Also, my PrimoChill LRT tubing came with a small bottle of a liquid that they mention I need to use before first use. Any thoughts on this?


you have to be careful with Alcohol, it can cause cracking in acrylic.


----------



## 218689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> you have to be careful with Alcohol, it can cause cracking in acrylic.


unless he has some sort of special acryllic(the kind they dont commonly use in reservoirs, unfortunately), it will cause cracking(if you have an old reservoir laying around, that you are not going to use again, you can try it, you will get emidiate results)

and vinegar should not be used on nickel plated components, it can cause discoloration and flaking(somewhat depending on the quality of the plating and amount of time its exposed).

I learned this the hard way







woho


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> damn wermad, that build in the th10 is looking awesome, cant wait to sell this 900D and get workin in the sth10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now.. i need to get more rads


you should check out fleabay. i hear there is a great Monsta 480 rad on auction.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> you should check out fleabay. i hear there is a great Monsta 480 rad on auction.


i wonder whos it could be


----------



## vaporizer

hmmmm, probably a very handsome guy. lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> hmmmm, probably a very handsome guy. lol


we can only assume that about a MONSTA owner


----------



## Zeus

Look what arrived for me today at work









2 XSPC GTX blocks for my GTX 780's (I've already got the matching backplates at home)



edit: sorry for the bad pic. used someone elses camera phone as mine doesn't work any more


----------



## Anoxy

Ugh I have a brand new UT60 240mm left over that I didn't end up using in my build. However, I did mount fans on it when I got it, and in all of my noobish glory, I used the wrong length screws and smashed the fins under each screw hole.

Think I can still sell it? Or should I just keep it for future use?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ugh I have a brand new UT60 240mm left over that I didn't end up using in my build. However, I did mount fans on it when I got it, and in all of my noobish glory, I used the wrong length screws and smashed the fins under each screw hole.
> 
> Think I can still sell it? Or should I just keep it for future use?


Leak test it and if it passes, just mention in the listing its got a few bent pins.

Btw, don't these have a plate to stop the screws from going through? i Know my Monstas and the ST30 I have now do.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Leak test it and if it passes, just mention in the listing its got a few bent pins.
> 
> Btw, don't these have a plate to stop the screws from going through? i Know my Monstas and the ST30 I have now do.


Exactly. They have a plate that prevents the screws from reaching the radiator. I have an XT45 and a UT60, they both have the fin protection.


----------



## Anoxy

Yes they have a plate, but what I'm saying is that I used the wrong length screw so it went to far and bent that plate in, bending the pins underneath it. The plate didn't do much.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, those plates have saved my fins on more than one occasion. The first cpl times i ever screwed a fan into my NexXxos rads i think turned it pretty hard too.


----------



## wermad

Since the plate blocks off those fins, slight or little damage will have no effect in terms of thermal performance. But, just ensure to mentioned this: "few bent fins under the plates, will probably have no impact in performance".


----------



## kpoeticg

It depends if it hits the channels or not. I'm pretty sure the natural position for the screws is usually around the channels, but alot of rads offset the screws so the channels don't get damaged (then again maybe that's just marketing for some rad i read about at some point).


----------



## Anoxy

Ok I'll have to leak test it, thanks guys. I don't think any of the internals are damaged, just the fins are slightly bent inward from the plates bending down against them.

On a less related note, are there any mods that post in here who could change my [Build Help] thread in my sig to [Build Log]? I would really appreciate it!


----------



## kizwan

You should be able to edit the title yourself. Did you tried the Edit Thread link?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You should be able to edit the title yourself. Did you tried the Edit Thread link?


This....You can edit the thread yourself....


----------



## Anoxy

Ah, I'm dumb. Didn't see the "Edit Thread" button. Thanks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ah, I'm dumb. Didn't see the "Edit Thread" button. Thanks.


If you're the op, you can edit the thread title in most cases.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I'm 20 pages behind in this thread. Been busy working on my build









As I catch up, here is a teaser..


----------



## Anoxy

I remember Aussiejuggalo asked this earlier but I didn't see if anyone answered.

Is the sysprep solution that comes with primochill tubing necessary, or should I just throw my killcoil in there and filler up with distilled water?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I remember Aussiejuggalo asked this earlier but I didn't see if anyone answered.
> 
> Is the sysprep solution that comes with primochill tubing necessary, or should I just throw my killcoil in there and filler up with distilled water?


Can't tell you for absolute certain whether it is necessary or not. But I ended up using it, even after flushing all my other components, and the Sysprep did a noticeable job cleaning out crap that I thought I had cleaned out of the loop (before assembly in the case). It won't hurt to use it, and in many cases, especially regarding a lot of watercooling components, its best to stick to what the manufacturer recommends. And if you do want to know, it doesn't react at all with Mayhems Pastel, so you can immediately fill your loop with pastel right after draining the Sysprep/Distilled mixture out of your loop.


----------



## devilhead

hi, maybe someone knows where to get stuff like this? 
because i want use this stuff, to give power to D5 pumps, when i leaktest my sytems, want to change usual power supply....


----------



## VSG

I find that pretty cumbersome by itself since it doesn't have a switch. I use a secondary PSU (beg, borrow or steal) and hotwire the 24 pin ATX cable so it can power up the pump alone. At least the PSU has a switch to turn the pump on or off.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> hi, maybe someone knows where to get stuff like this?
> because i want use this stuff, to give power to D5 pumps, when i leaktest my sytems, want to change usual power supply....


You can get them on ebay. Here's one http://www.ebay.com/itm/External-Power-Supply-12V-DC-4-Pin-Molex-Adapter-Cable-/360170366699?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item53dbd3a6eb


----------



## devilhead

i saw somewhere it is those stuff and with power switch, that will be perfect for me!


----------



## slothiraptor

Also since all your doing is using it to power your pump you could probably just get a cheap $10 psu


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Also since all your doing is using it to power your pump you could probably just get a cheap $10 psu


salvage 1 from someone throwing away their 10 year old dell.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> salvage 1 from someone throwing away their 10 year old dell.


Could even be from a 2 year old Dell. It is a Dell afterall.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> hi, maybe someone knows where to get stuff like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because i want use this stuff, to give power to D5 pumps, when i leaktest my sytems, want to change usual power supply....


FCPU and PPCs both sell multiple versions of those. I use one of those on a surge protector for flushing so i can use a switch.
Just make sure to dbl check that the one u get has both 5v & 12v. The one i got only has 12, and it's way more useful for other stuff you'll end up wanting to use it for if it has both....

HERE'S one from PPCs

And HERE'S a few from FCPU


----------



## VSG

All without an easy ON/OFF switch.


----------



## kpoeticg

I use an old surge protector for the on/off switch. If you don't have an extra surge protector it's not as good of an option though.

If you don't have an extra surge protector to plug it into, and you wanna leak test without your systems PSU, probly best to grab a real cheap/used PSU and just jump it with a paperclip. Same effect


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I use an old surge protector for the on/off switch. If you don't have an extra surge protector it's not as good of an option though.
> 
> If you don't have an extra surge protector to plug it into, and you wanna leak test without your systems PSU, probly best to grab a real cheap/used PSU and just jump it with a paperclip. Same effect


What's the issue with using your system's PSU to leak test?


----------



## bundymania

Here´s the brandnew 290(X) block from Koolance:


----------



## kpoeticg

^^ Thanx bundy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What's the issue with using your system's PSU to leak test?


Nothing necessarily. The guy that asked about the DC/AC adapters said he wanted one for leak testing. There's obvious benefits to leak-testing away from powered on electronics. But its definitely not necessary


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> FCPU and PPCs both sell multiple versions of those. I use one of those on a surge protector for flushing so i can use a switch.
> Just make sure to dbl check that the one u get has both 5v & 12v. The one i got only has 12, and it's way more useful for other stuff you'll end up wanting to use it for if it has both....
> 
> HERE'S one from PPCs
> 
> And HERE'S a few from FCPU


thnks just now need to find in europe


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> thnks just now need to find in europe


HERE ya go. From Aquatuning. It has the 230v AC prongs too. PPCs sells the same one with 230v ac + prongs also

Pretty sure Aquatuning sells just about everything that Alphacool, Phobya, & Aquacomputer manufactures. They seem to be pretty much the PPCs/FCPU of Europe


----------



## Anoxy

Ok sorry guys...

before I fill this thing up and get to leak testing, are there any common rookie mistakes I should beware of?

Also, bleeding comes _after_ my 24-hour leak test, once I've got everything plugged in and connected, correct?


----------



## kpoeticg

Dbl check all your ports. Put paper towels over EVERYTHING that's important, and keep checking to make sure you're not drowning your mobo, cpu, etc... DON'T let your pump run dry no matter what
Jump your PSU, don't power your system on (obviously).

And as long as the air doesn't give you issue's when trying to keep your res full, you shouldn't have to bleed it til you're finished

Edit: That's just stuff i can think of off the top of my head. There's much smarter people in here that may have more to offer


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Wait... you guys to 24 hour leak tests?









...ooops
















Also what set voltage do you guys run, I got all 5 fans on 5v atm, about to do a stress test but my idles seem a bit higher then my H70


----------



## kpoeticg

Some people do, not everybody.
Generally the first few hours would be the most revealing, but it def doesn't hurt to keep it running for 24 just to make sure you don't have any weak links


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> HERE ya go. From Aquatuning. It has the 230v AC prongs too. PPCs sells the same one with 230v ac + prongs also
> 
> Pretty sure Aquatuning sells just about everything that Alphacool, Phobya, & Aquacomputer manufactures. They seem to be pretty much the PPCs/FCPU of Europe


+1, thnks


----------



## Pimphare

Hey guys, I know this is a little







, but I know y'all know your stuff about cameras. I'm in the market for a good quality camera that takes crisp large photos so that I can get them developed and put into a frame. I don't necessary need the top of the line or the most expensive one. Basically what can I get for around $300-$400? If you can direct me to another thread on hear that'd be cool. I don't want to clutter up this one.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hey guys, I know this is a little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I know y'all know your stuff about cameras. I'm in the market for a good quality camera that takes crisp large photos so that I can get them developed and put into a frame. I don't necessary need the top of the line or the most expensive one. Basically what can I get for around $300-$400? If you can direct me to another thread on hear that'd be cool. I don't want to clutter up this one.


http://www.overclock.net/t/312165/official-ocn-camera-thread

I currently have a Canon 550D which i love,not sure what the prices are for those in the U.S,but they are much newer models to the one i have,that said you will need some good lens....Make sure when you get your cam you get a nifty fifty one of the best lens you can have for stills and not expensive....


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/312165/official-ocn-camera-thread
> 
> I currently have a Canon 550D which i love,not sure what the prices are for those in the U.S,but they are much newer models to the one i have,that said you will need some good lens....Make sure when you get your cam you get a nifty fifty one of the best lens you can have for stills and not expensive....


Thank you sir!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Thank you sir!


No prob....


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So just ran a really quick stress test with my new WC setup this is what I got



All 5 rad fans are only on 5v and there hardly moving any air









What you think? ambient temp is high 20s

Edit, also I can hear what sounds kinda like either dripping or water flow every so often from my pump res combo thing, is that normal? its only for a second and not constant, checked for leaks etc but its all good


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What's the issue with using your system's PSU to leak test?


You either need to unplug stuff, or run the risk of a leak hitting powered up components. So it's more of a hassle/risk reduction technique.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Edit, also I can hear what sounds kinda like either dripping or water flow every so often from my pump res combo thing, is that normal? its only for a second and not constant, checked for leaks etc but its all good


Probably just air bubbles getting pushed through the system, which is normal for a new loop. Even if you tilt it around when you fill it there are always air bubbles trapped that need to flow through the system. They'll accumulate in the res, and then you can top it off.


----------



## Anoxy

What is the proper method for stopping and starting the pump with the paperclip method?

I think I might have ruined something here....the pump started and my reservoir was starting to empty so I pulled the paperclip out, some sparks came out of the 24-pin and now it won't work. Please tell me I didn't just make a ridiculously stupid mistake and broke my cable or something


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quick Fill Up/ Water Leak Test Video...


----------



## Forceman

The normal method is to run off the PSU with the switch on the back, assuming it has one. Otherwise turn it off at the power strip. No idea what pulling the paperclip may have done though.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You either need to unplug stuff, or run the risk of a leak hitting powered up components. So it's more of a hassle/risk reduction technique.
> Probably just air bubbles getting pushed through the system, which is normal for a new loop. Even if you tilt it around when you fill it there are always air bubbles trapped that need to flow through the system. They'll accumulate in the res, and then you can top it off.


Ah so thats what all the small bubbles in my res are? should i have the rest open so they can get out?

Had a feeling it was just some air but thought I should ask just in case


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> The normal method is to run off the PSU with the switch on the back, assuming it has one. Otherwise turn it off at the power strip. No idea what pulling the paperclip may have done though.


Ahha, ok I unplugged the 24-pin and plugged it back in and it's working again.

ROUND 2! Fight!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quick Fill Up/ Water Leak Test Video...


Just begging for Mayhems Gigabyte Pastel Orange . Nice build though!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Just begging for Mayhems Gigabyte Pastel Orange
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Nice build though!


Still a ways to go yet with the Project. I tried some Pastel Orange. Did not like it. Found another Color that Compliments Orange
Better, adds a bit of Contrast.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah so thats what all the small bubbles in my res are? should i have the rest open so they can get out?


No, they should accumulate in your resevoir and then you can just top it off at your leisure.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> No, they should accumulate in your resevoir and then you can just top it off at your leisure.


Ah ok cool, thanks for all the help guys


----------



## LunaP

Anyone using EK Acrylic GPU blocks w/ LED's and has a pic I could see of them in action with the lights on? I can't find any good ones on google or online and I'm just taking a 2nd look before purchasing an XSPC GPU Block w/ LED's as they look sexy but was curious how the EK looked all lit up. If anyone has some good shots would greatly appreciate it


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anyone using EK Acrylic GPU blocks w/ LED's and has a pic I could see of them in action with the lights on? I can't find any good ones on google or online and I'm just taking a 2nd look before purchasing an XSPC GPU Block w/ LED's as they look sexy but was curious how the EK looked all lit up. If anyone has some good shots would greatly appreciate it


imagine the xspc block but instead of just the outline glowing, its mostly the entire block, that is if youre buying the full acrylic top. I dont have any leds to put in a block atm or id take some good shots for you =\


----------



## Anoxy

Man you guys weren't kidding when you said to shake your case around when bleeding air. Had to give my case the ol shake and bake for a while before the air escaped


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Man you guys weren't kidding when you said to shake your case around when bleeding air. Had to give my case the ol shake and bake for a while before the air escaped


back when i was using smaller cases i would stuff the insides with packing paper that newegg/amazon etc use, then shake it like a red headed step baby.

now that im using giant cases that are half as tall as me i think ill put it on one of my 4 wheelers and just go into the woods for a while to bleed it


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Man you guys weren't kidding when you said to shake your case around when bleeding air. Had to give my case the ol shake and bake for a while before the air escaped


Yeah I spent 2 hours shaking the damn thing to get it all out


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Somewhere in this thread a few pages back (I don't recall exactly which page), someone had posted a picture of a 120 fan with a black housing, blue transparent fan blades, and a white sleeve on the inside of the housing that encircled the fan blades (like an Enermax fan). I believe the name of the company that made it started with an "A", but it wasn't Alphacool. Does this ring a bell for anyone, because I'd like to order it... Thanks.


----------



## Ragsters

Im really worried about the whole bleeding thing. I mean every one is talking about the need to shake the case. My problem is that I will not be able to do that without risk of damaging something. You see I am going to have my reservoir sitting on top of my MCP32X pump, with heatsink, using a male to male fitting. The res is really delicate and shaking and tilting is just not an option.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hey guys, I know this is a little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I know y'all know your stuff about cameras. I'm in the market for a good quality camera that takes crisp large photos so that I can get them developed and put into a frame. I don't necessary need the top of the line or the most expensive one. Basically what can I get for around $300-$400? If you can direct me to another thread on hear that'd be cool. I don't want to clutter up this one.


I worked as a pro during the film days and a bit with digital too, here is my advice...

Camera bodies just don't matter much anymore. The sensors are very high quality across all of the major brand's lines... you can choose the lowest Canon or Nikon model, pair it with a decent lens, and someone viewing your photo on the wall or on the web would be hard pressed to tell it apart from the same image shot with the top of the line pro body.

The place where you get more when you spend more on cameras is 3 places:

- Autofocus speed/accuracy
- Sensor sensitivity for low light shooting
- Increased durability once you get to the prosumer/pro models

So spend as little as you can on the body while still getting the features you want. Spend your money on lenses. Glass and lens technology has barely changed in 50 years... while there are better designs and much better coatings, lenses don't change much. Spend now on a good lens and it will last you through multiple camera bodies.

Sorry I can't recommend specific bodies as I've stuck with my Canon 1Ds'es for a while now and don't follow all the new models.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Somewhere in this thread a few pages back (I don't recall exactly which page), someone had posted a picture of a 120 fan with a black housing, blue transparent fan blades, and a white sleeve on the inside of the housing that encircled the fan blades (like an Enermax fan). I believe the name of the company that made it started with an "A", but it wasn't Alphacool. Does this ring a bell for anyone, because I'd like to order it... Thanks.


The ones in BNeg's build? They are Alpenfoehns.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Im really worried about the whole bleeding thing. I mean every one is talking about the need to shake the case. My problem is that I will not be able to do that without risk of damaging something. You see I am going to have my reservoir sitting on top of my MCP32X pump, with heatsink, using a male to male fitting. The res is really delicate and shaking and tilting is just not an option.


Just tilt it back and forth/side to side. gently rock it


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Wait... you guys to 24 hour leak tests?


Yup, that's what I do. Slow leaks doesn't usually come up until around 10+ hr mark.

I just make sure to keep an eye on all the fittings/joints. If a leak does pop up, re-tighten the fitting and leak test again.

If that fails, replace the O-ring and/or fittings







.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Yup, that's what I do. Slow leaks doesn't usually come up until around 10+ hr mark.
> 
> I just make sure to keep an eye on all the fittings/joints. If a leak does pop up, re-tighten the fitting and leak test again.
> 
> If that fails, replace the O-ring and/or fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I must be really lucky, had my pc up since 10am today and filled it at around 1pm yesterday, no leaks no nothing


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

My leak test only lasted 15 minutes,had one small leak tightened fittings and not a leak since...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> My leak test only lasted 15 minutes,had one small leak tightened fittings and not a leak since...


Longer then my leak test, it lasted all of 2 mins


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Long leak tests are more for just peace of mind. Drastic leaks are going to show up near instantly when starting the leak test, although you can run into small leaks down the road. I'd just do a 24 hour leak test to be 99.99%-absolutely-sure.

@Ragsters: You don't have to vigorously rock your case back and forth. Just gently lean it side to side slowly to get the greatest majority of bubbles out. Micro-bubbles will take a lot longer to get out, and your best bet is just to use that 24 hour leak test as a time to have your flow push the micro-bubbles out of the loop and displaced back into the resevoir.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Im really worried about the whole bleeding thing. I mean every one is talking about the need to shake the case. My problem is that I will not be able to do that without risk of damaging something. You see I am going to have my reservoir sitting on top of my MCP32X pump, with heatsink, using a male to male fitting. The res is really delicate and shaking and tilting is just not an option.


I didn't shake mine, I just ran it normally, then put it on the side and ran it for a while, then put it back to normal. That seemed to get the majority of bubbles out, then I just let it naturally bleed the litle ones out over time.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Another question, if I set my CPU so it throttles down to 1.6GHz instead of running 4GHz constant that should lower the temp of my water shouldnt it?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Another question, if I set my CPU so it throttles down to 1.6GHz instead of running 4GHz constant that should lower the temp of my water shouldnt it?


Yeah but I heard its not that good for the cpu since it has the voltage up and down when you are using it
Your temp should be fine though from what I see


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Yeah but I heard its not that good for the cpu since it has the voltage up and down when you are using it


I don't know where you heard that, but it's wrong. It doesn't hurt the CPU, it is actually beneficial since it reduces the voltage (and temps) when idle. They are designed to change voltage and frequency many times a second, letting them idle down isn't going to hurt them in the least.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Yeah but I heard its not that good for the cpu since it has the voltage up and down when you are using it
> Your temp should be fine though from what I see


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I don't know where you heard that, but it's wrong. It doesn't hurt the CPU, it is actually beneficial since it reduces the voltage (and temps) when idle. They are designed to change voltage and frequency many times a second, letting them idle down isn't going to hurt them in the least.


Im more asking for temps, my CPU is slowly degrading and I know that but I wanna get this to 4.5GHz till it dies or I upgrade... then I'll be happy









Another thing, running fans on 7v seeing theres no ground for it how safe is it? using my NZXT fan hub to power the fans so there set at a constant voltage, Im often crashing my computer


----------



## wermad

I still run EIST. Don't know what the big deal is and all oc guides tell you to turn it off. I've been stable with it for all my cpu. My old i5 clocked @ 4.9 didn't need to stay there while I was surfing. EIST drops it down to ~800-1600 for very low usage. I say keep it on


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I turn most crap off and leave it running constant voltage and clock but i want my watercooling dead silent so I thought might try turning Offset voltage and C1E on and see if that drops my temps any


----------



## u3b3rg33k

I've never found EIST to cause instability - I think the reasoning may be that it might hide thermal issues, but if I can run [email protected] for 30 days straight without issue with it on, I say why bother? I'm all for overclocking (cue THIS IS OCN sound clip), but if it's not doing work, why waste power?

And following that logic, why own it if it's not doing work? Hence my rig is at 100% load 25/7.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Quick Fill Up/ Water Leak Test Video...


lol, the music @ 2m19s just woke up everybody in the house. Wow that was loud.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Another thing, running fans on 7v seeing theres no ground for it how safe is it? using my NZXT fan hub to power the fans so there set at a constant voltage, Im often crashing my computer


don't confuse a DC "ground" with AC grounding conductors. there are no exposed metal parts on your fan, right? and if there are, they're probably spinning, so touching them is aways bad. either way, 12-5=7, and your children will not burn in their sleep because your fans are not using "ground". All voltage is relative anyways...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> don't confuse a DC "ground" with AC grounding conductors. there are no exposed metal parts on your fan, right? and if there are, they're probably spinning, so touching them is aways bad. either way, 12-5=7, and your children will not burn in their sleep because your fans are not using "ground". All voltage is relative anyways...


Lol I was just wondering seeing it was just the 12 and 5v with no black grounds in the middle







and I dont particularly feel like being electrocuted again


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Lol I was just wondering seeing it was just the 12 and 5v with no black grounds in the middle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I dont particularly feel like being electrocuted again


Then I suggest you don't put them in your mouth.









But seriously, allowing any wires (black\yellow, black\red, red\yellow) to touch is bad. the only "safe" colors that can touch are the same colors (black\black, yellow/yellow), assuming everything is color coded correctly. My AX850 wires are all black, so beware, not everything goes off of the color code.

As for 24 hour leak testing, lol. I'm a hook it up, grab a beer, "is it leaking? No? Fire it up!" guy. haven't had a leak in years, and I've been known to take a rig to a lan party or two.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Then I suggest you don't put them in your mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, allowing any wires (black\yellow, black\red, red\yellow) to touch is bad. the only "safe" colors that can touch are the same colors (black\black, yellow/yellow), assuming everything is color coded correctly. My AX850 wires are all black, so beware, not everything goes off of the color code.
> 
> As for 24 hour leak testing, lol. I'm a hook it up, grab a beer, "is it leaking? No? Fire it up!" guy. haven't had a leak in years, and I've been known to take a rig to a lan party or two.


Hahah but but... there tasty









doesnt 7v on a molex run the risk of potentially cooking things if you dont have a good enough PSU, power board etc. Mine are colour coded but not for long, sleeving them all black









Same as me, did my first loop yesterday, filled it didnt bother putting down any paper towel coz i was 99% sure everything was more then tight enough


----------



## u3b3rg33k

If you're going to put 50W of fans on a fake 7V line, you might want to use a fan controller off the 12V line instead. if it's 3 to 5 quiet fans, it near as makes no difference, makes no difference. this may not apply if you scavenge your powersupplies from johnnyguru's reject pile:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=154

then again if you're looking at a PSU that he not so subtlely calls a pile or garbage, you might want to step away from building computers.

if you build computers with PSU's like this:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=187

the internet police will be by shortly to disconnect you permanently.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

It would be 5 - 8 AP-15s on an NZXT Grid fan hub, nice little hub wired for 12v stock, I changed it to 5v and considering doing 7v to let my Ap-15s have a little more grunt, on 5v they hardly push air









Hey I learnt never to buy a crap PSU, fried my last one


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> If you're going to put 50W of fans on a fake 7V line, you might want to use a fan controller off the 12V line instead. if it's 3 to 5 quiet fans, it near as makes no difference, makes no difference. this may not apply if you scavenge your powersupplies from johnnyguru's reject pile:
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=154
> 
> then again if you're looking at a PSU that he not so subtlely calls a pile or garbage, you might want to step away from building computers.
> 
> if you build computers with PSU's like this:
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=187
> 
> the internet police will be by shortly to disconnect you permanently.


LOL,"FAIL, FAIL FAIL"..


----------



## u3b3rg33k

this might help you:









I think that's a safe call. then again you could run AP-13s on 12V...

I've had good luck with PSUs. I've always been an antec guy (even back to the full tower 80386 days - 90W AT PSU say whaaat?)

I had one in a server where one day I realized the 120MM intake fan on the "FAN ONLY" connector wasn't turning, so I pulled the cover off to see that "oh, neither is the PSU exhaust fan!" Luckily, the angry 80mm exhaust fans were pulling air back though the dead-fan psu, and keep it it from dying. it was well out of warranty, and antec replaced it for free anyways (or maybe it wasn't. I told them it was like 5 years old and they said it didn't matter).

Before I bought the AX850 I was looking around, and after reading this: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=197
I just had to buy it. I'm running more GPUs than it has connectors to feed, and it's not breaking a sweat (not that PSU's sweat).
I like that he goes so far as to tear them apart and see what the components are - solid caps and nippon big caps let me sleep well at night, while my computer folds its butt off.

the comments like this:
"Add to this that shining a light through a prism onto this power supply reveals the image of a unicorn. Ok... maybe not."
just make me LOL.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Could run AP-13's but I already spent the $120 on the 15s plus I know how crazy good the AP-15s are for rads

I rand a cheapo crap 750w PSU before my Silverstone one, god that thing sucked went to turn the switch on it on and it blew up














stupid thing

Anyway where getting







now. so I should be fine with 7v on the fan power board hub thing I got?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Most fans run fine using the 12v and 5v wires for an effective 7v but I've never tried it with any fan, much less my Gentle Typhoons. Always ran my AP-14s on a fan controller of some sort.

You might be better off asking in the '[Official] Scythe GentleTyphoon club' thread, or I'd probably just try it out on a fan and see, but that's just how I roll.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Most fans run fine using the 12v and 5v wires for an effective 7v but I've never tried it with any fan, much less my Gentle Typhoons. Always ran my AP-14s on a fan controller of some sort.
> 
> You might be better off asking in the '[Official] Scythe GentleTyphoon club' thread, or I'd probably just try it out on a fan and see, but that's just how I roll.


Didnt even know there was a Gentle Typhoon club







, I'll head over there and ask as to stop spamming the watercooling thread now









Thanks

I'll probably just wire it up and see what happens


----------



## u3b3rg33k

I say fire it up on 7v!

what the fan doesn't know (and can't understand) won't hurt it. as far as the fan is concerned, the 5V line is "ground" and the 12V line is "positive". only it's 7V more than ground, rather than 12V more.

it could be 1012V and 1005V, and your fan would behave in the exact same manner (barring possible capacitance/charge issues, but let's not go there).


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Yeah think Im gonna play around with the fans tomorrow, getting pretty good temps but there no where near low enough for 4.5GHz with a GPU, atm its just one over sized CPU loop









Question, would clear coolant stay cooler longer and be easier to cool then the distilled water and liquid utopia Im using now? Just thought about this before when my friend asked why I didnt go for coolant


----------



## u3b3rg33k

IDK about that specific coolant, but any LCS will reach equilibrium after a while with constant load. I run a coolant for the growth inhibitors, lubricants, and anti-freeze characteristics. sometimes it's fun to take a rig outside and see what you can do, or not have to worry about bursting everything if you leave it in the car too long.

in the winter, of course.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

The liquid utopias just growth inhibitor to keep the water clear of crap lol

I just thought maybe coolant would be better, I went with distilled water coz it was the cheapest easiest option but my friends say Im an idiot, coolants better etc







, didnt think there would be much of a difference apart from coolants having all the growth inhibitors and stuff in them stock


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Distilled + PT_Nuke-PHN + colored tubing is what I'm using. I could possibly see me trying a dye someday, but _never_ a coolant.

Most if not all coolants do not actually perform any better than just plain distilled. A coolant may provide you with corrosion protection, but that's totally unnecessary unless you're mixing metals you shouldn't in your loop, and some coolants have actually been known to cause issues/problems.

I prefer to be able to drain and refill as often as I want, which may well be multiple times in the same day if I'm trying something out / changing stuff around as I'm known to do, without having to worry about the added cost of a coolant.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Somewhere in this thread a few pages back (I don't recall exactly which page), someone had posted a picture of a 120 fan with a black housing, blue transparent fan blades, and a white sleeve on the inside of the housing that encircled the fan blades (like an Enermax fan). I believe the name of the company that made it started with an "A", but it wasn't Alphacool. Does this ring a bell for anyone, because I'd like to order it... Thanks.


Aerocool sharks maybe?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So guys after all this 7v, I hook it all up and guess what? the NZXT Grid doesnt run 7v









Heres my 5 and 12v results

5v


12v


Gotta be honest I was expecting a hell of a lot better on 12v with 5 AP-15 fans







, tempted to take them back to 5v and just add more 3 more on my top rad for push pull

Edit, these temps seem kinda crap seeing I have an AX 360 & 240 just cooling my CPU


----------



## pc-illiterate

you dropped 5-6-7* off your max temps. thats pretty good for just 'cranking up the fans.'


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So guys after all this 7v, I hook it all up and guess what? the NZXT Grid doesnt run 7v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres my 5 and 12v results
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 5v
> 
> 
> 12v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta be honest I was expecting a hell of a lot better on 12v with 5 AP-15 fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , tempted to take them back to 5v and just add more 3 more on my top rad for push pull
> 
> Edit, these temps seem kinda crap seeing I have an AX 360 & 240 just cooling my CPU


Well, ~6 degrees delta - it is something







You have great rad capacity so I suspect your delta T may be low already at 5V, so that's why you don't see big improvement when moving to 12V.
The rest is more about the block capability, ambient temperature and CPU specifics. My thoughts only, I may be wrong.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

That's true, sorry was a bit annoyed when I posted that. Gotta be honest tho I wasn't expecting it to go over 50 on 12v considering the amount of rad I have. I pushed it to 4.5GHz which is my target and OCCT stopped about 10 mins in saying it hit 80... Core Temp read 70







sensors must be off









I'll play around more tomorrow, I could of put the wrong flow plate in the block I'm not sure


----------



## morencyam

Made a little progress on my rebuild project last night. Fans and custom shroud mounted to a Black Ice GTX 480. I'll be doing the same thing with my Thermochill PA120.4 tonight. Thinking about trying to find some black screws to replace the current chrome ones but I'm having a hard time finding black 40mm 8-32 screws. I'll probably just pick up some 1.75" and cut them down like I did with these.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Made a little progress on my rebuild project last night. Fans and custom shroud mounted to a Black Ice GTX 480. I'll be doing the same thing with my Thermochill PA120.4 tonight. Thinking about trying to find some black screws to replace the current chrome ones but I'm having a hard time finding black 40mm 8-32 screws. I'll probably just pick up some 1.75" and cut them down like I did with these.


wow nice paintjob!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> wow nice paintjob!


Thanks. I painted them a while back and had four in use in my previous build. Finally time to start utilizing all 8. The pull side have CM R4's that I modded to have orange LEDs. I'll have to play around with the fan controller to get the R4's and GT's in sync but that should be easy enough. I know, I know, it's best to use the same fans for push-pull, but according to Martin it isn't that big of a deal if the specs of each fan are close. And since there will be 2x 480mm rads I'm not to concerned if there is a slight performance drop over using all GT's
Since this pic I've replaced the one bad LED


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Thanks. I painted them a while back and had four in use in my previous build. Finally time to start utilizing all 8. The pull side have CM R4's that I modded to have orange LEDs. I'll have to play around with the fan controller to get the R4's and GT's in sync but that should be easy enough. I know, I know, it's best to use the same fans for push-pull, but according to Martin it isn't that big of a deal if the specs of each fan are close. And since there will be 2x 480mm rads I'm not to concerned if there is a slight performance drop over using all GT's
> Since this pic I've replaced the one bad LED


very cool =P


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So guys after all this 7v, I hook it all up and guess what? the NZXT Grid doesnt run 7v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres my 5 and 12v results
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 5v
> 
> 
> 12v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta be honest I was expecting a hell of a lot better on 12v with 5 AP-15 fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , tempted to take them back to 5v and just add more 3 more on my top rad for push pull
> 
> Edit, these temps seem kinda crap seeing I have an AX 360 & 240 just cooling my CPU


Do you know the RPM when running @5V? I have HL Black Ice GTS 360 + XSPC EX240 & SP120 fans (one set of fans on both rads). Running IBT & LinX with fans at 50% & 100% speed, the difference on the hottest core is only ~2 - 3 Celsius. I'm running my fans @50% speed 24/7.


----------



## szeged




----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*


grats, check your PM's


----------



## morencyam

man, that jumped in price quick. Last I saw a few hours ago it still only had one bid. That's how it tends to work though. I've been sniped out of parts so many times by last second bids


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> man, that jumped in price quick. Last I saw a few hours ago it still only had one bid. That's how it tends to work though. I've been sniped out of parts so many times by last second bids


i had a bid in at $96, then at 10 seconds left some guy outbid me and i had to spam the " one click bid" button to get it back, tbh i didnt even care about the price at that point, i just wanted to win to stick it to people who only bid in the last few seconds.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i had a bid in at $96, then at 10 seconds left some guy outbid me and i had to spam the " one click bid" button to get it back, tbh i didnt even care about the price at that point, i just wanted to win to stick it to people who only bid in the last few seconds.


I hate when people do that. Usually if it's something I really want and it's getting down to the last few seconds I'll enter a much higher bid so they have to hit the one click bid multiple times, and hopefully they run out of time before outbidding me


----------



## LunaP

Oh now I remember the question I was going to ask. Is it required to thread the ends of acrylic tube after making them or can you just slide them in? I saw one thread (can't find it) where someone was threading them for insertion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Oh now I remember the question I was going to ask. Is it required to thread the ends of acrylic tube after making them or can you just slide them in? I saw one thread (can't find it) where someone was threading them for insertion.


Fast fate did a threaded loop,looked good but very tricky to get everything lined up if its already mounted.

For normal c47's etc,no you dont.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i had a bid in at $96, then at 10 seconds left some guy outbid me and i had to spam the " one click bid" button to get it back, tbh i didnt even care about the price at that point, i just wanted to win to stick it to people who only bid in the last few seconds.


JBidWatcher, Auction Sniper, Bid Sniper, eSnipe, etc

There are a BUNCH of automated tools you can use that will wait until the last 10 seconds of an ebay auction and automatically place a bid for you one step up from whatever the current bid is up to the max amount you preset it to pay. They work pretty well, and will win you the bid I'd say, half of the time.

Honestly, I couldn't imagine bidding on anything without using automated software.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> JBidWatcher, Auction Sniper, Bid Sniper, eSnipe, etc
> 
> There are a BUNCH of automated tools you can use that will wait until the last 10 seconds of an ebay auction and automatically place a bid for you one step up from whatever the current bid is up to the max amount you preset it to pay. They work pretty well, and will win you the bid I'd say, half of the time.
> 
> Honestly, I couldn't imagine bidding on anything without using automated software.


i dont use ebay all that much to put the software to good use







now if i had them for the diablo3 AH....lol

really was just bidding on this one to try to save a few bucks, was going to buy one either way, new or used. If it passed the price of a new one i would have just let whoever else win it and gone with the new one.


----------



## Radmanhs

ooo i really hope i get to join this club after christmas ;p i have a clc for my cpu for now, but im goung to ask for watercooling stuff for christmas, although its going to be weird for my parents since thats almost all i want... i dont care

should i give you guys a list of the parts i plan on putting in my system? even though i have never wced before im going balls to the walls... with hard acrylic


----------



## DarthBaggins

I tried asking for watercooling stuff and a new tower for Christmas, but turns out I'm getting an iPad Mini (rather have the water cooling goodies, lol)


----------



## ozzy1925

guys,i would like to buy fans for my ut 60 480mm radiators(push/pull) but cant decide between these: typhoon ap-15,corsair sp120,noiseblocker b12 series.As i heard many of the tyhoons,corsair fans are making humming noise.As a result noiseblockers are best choice but they arent designed for push and pull configuration is that correct?


----------



## pc-illiterate

go with the gt ap-15s. best of the 3 hands down without a doubt


----------



## morencyam

I agree with pc-illiterate, go with the GT's. I had 4 running in my previous build and at full speed they do make a sort of deep humming you can hear if you're a foot or two away, but anymore than that it's not really noticeable. It's also drastically reduced if you lower the RPM with either a fan controller or 7v adapter cable. Rubber fan gaskets also help a lot too, which is probably why the e-loops don't have that hum(at least I haven't heard anything about them having a hum). And I actually think GT's look really good, unlike a lot of other people. I like the industrial look they have. The e-loops look good too though, but are very expensive, even compared to GT's


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I tried asking for watercooling stuff and a new tower for Christmas, but turns out I'm getting an iPad Mini (rather have the water cooling goodies, lol)


well... i dont like apple and i already have a tablet so thats not a push to get something else lol


----------



## neSSa




----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> go with the gt ap-15s. best of the 3 hands down without a doubt


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I agree with pc-illiterate, go with the GT's. I had 4 running in my previous build and at full speed they do make a sort of deep humming you can hear if you're a foot or two away, but anymore than that it's not really noticeable. It's also drastically reduced if you lower the RPM with either a fan controller or 7v adapter cable. Rubber fan gaskets also help a lot too, which is probably why the e-loops don't have that hum(at least I haven't heard anything about them having a hum). And I actually think GT's look really good, unlike a lot of other people. I like the industrial look they have. The e-loops look good too though, but are very expensive, even compared to GT's


thanks for the quick responses .I forgot to say i wil buy 16 fans for the case and the radiators and i know NB are expensive but i dont want to hear that annoying noise when i pay that much money .How abut the noise :deign problem about the noiseblockers for push and pull?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*


mmm... parallel is so pretty. Nice job.
Do you have LEDs under the mobo to get that lighting effect toward to bottom of the picture?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks for the quick responses .I forgot to say i wil buy 16 fans for the case and the radiators and i know NB are expensive but i dont want to hear that annoying noise when i pay that much money .How abut the noise :deign problem about the noiseblockers for push and pull?


I'd just get some cheap decent fans for the case. It seems pointless to me to spend that much on any fan when it's just going to be used as intake or exhaust.
The only fans I can share knowledge on out of the three are the GT's since those are the only one I've used


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> I'd just get some cheap decent fans for the case. It seems pointless to me to spend that much on any fan when it's just going to be used as intake or exhaust.
> The only fans I can share knowledge on out of the three are the GT's since those are the only one I've used


ok thanks i will also be looking for noiseblocker users answers


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Do you have LEDs under the mobo to get that lighting effect toward to bottom of the picture?


I believe that motherboard is part of the ASUS Maximus line which come with the LED there to showcase the fact that the PCB where the audio sits is separate from the rest of the motherboard (to reduce signal interference or whatever). Cool little effect tho.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*


Very smexy looking Hydro Coppers! They look great in parallel too.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> well... i dont like apple and i already have a tablet so thats not a push to get something else lol


I even told my uncle, who is the one who got it, that I really wouldn't have a use for an iPad Mini between my phone, pc, PS3, & PS4. I already off-loaded my other "work" pc and my MacBook since they were just collecting dust at my apartment. I like certain Apple products but that doesn't include the iPhone & iPad


----------



## Radmanhs

hahaha, my dad HATES apple so not even a tiny chance there


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol, yeah I can understand the hate towards apple at times.

So now I guess my list for the pump, res and 750D or Source 530 tower needs to be sent to my dad.







I just want to finally get the components I have into my rig.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Acrylic tubing







lots of bends...


----------



## kpoeticg

Great work


----------



## Gardnerphotos

^thanks


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Acrylic tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lots of bends...


Lookin' good


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I agree with pc-illiterate, go with the GT's. I had 4 running in my previous build and at full speed they do make a sort of deep humming you can hear if you're a foot or two away, but anymore than that it's not really noticeable. It's also drastically reduced if you lower the RPM with either a fan controller or 7v adapter cable. Rubber fan gaskets also help a lot too, which is probably why the e-loops don't have that hum(at least I haven't heard anything about them having a hum). And I actually think GT's look really good, unlike a lot of other people. I like the industrial look they have. The e-loops look good too though, but are very expensive, even compared to GT's


Most people seem to love their AP-15s but I was always able to hear a subtle high-frequency whining sound that drove me crazy. I decoupled them with rubber mounts and even tried running adjacent fans at different RPMs to avoid harmonic vibrations (helped a little bit) but in the end I sold them. I switched to Corsair SP120s which ARE louder and don't have the same build quality but to my ear they have a much more pleasant tone. Fan noise/tone seems to be a really subjective thing.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> lol, yeah I can understand the hate towards apple at times.
> 
> So now I guess my list for the pump, res and 750D or Source 530 tower needs to be sent to my dad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just want to finally get the components I have into my rig.


what im going to do is put my whole list of parts on the christmas list, and to sound a little like a normal "teen", im going to ask for assassins creed 4


----------



## p5ych00n5

Looks like I've finally got decent temps and the rig nice and stable


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Most people seem to love their AP-15s but I was always able to hear a subtle high-frequency whining sound that drove me crazy. I decoupled them with rubber mounts and even tried running adjacent fans at different RPMs to avoid harmonic vibrations (helped a little bit) but in the end I sold them. I switched to Corsair AP-15s which ARE louder and don't have the same build quality but to my ear they have a much more pleasant tone. Fan noise/tone seems to be a really subjective thing.


as i read many reviews and comments :noiseblockers eloops are not designed for push and pull and going with ap 15 tyhpoons will be a gamble ( humming noise).At the end going with either corsair sp 120 performance edition or the quiet edition will be the best choice?


----------



## kpoeticg

I think he meant he switched to Corsair SP120's. Scythe makes Gentle Typhoons (well Nidec Servo really). AP-15's are the opposite of a gamble. They're widely considered to be the best rad fans with the best SP -> Noise ratio.

E-Loops are also amazing fans tho


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*


Nice, more and more fully parallel loops are popping up









What pump(s) you using and what kind of temps do you get?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think he meant he switched to Corsair SP120's. Scythe makes Gentle Typhoons (well Nidec Servo really). AP-15's are the opposite of a gamble. They're widely considered to be the best rad fans with the best SP -> Noise ratio.
> 
> E-Loops are also amazing fans tho


did you used e loops ?


----------



## Simplynicko

i'm gonna guess its 1 pump.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> did you used e loops ?


I have the Phobya 1600RPM Red/Black E-Loops. I just installed LED's in em last night. They're whisper quiet running at full speed



I broke a few corners off getting my LED method down & i'm pretty sure i'm gonna order some of the 2300RPM Alphacool E-Loops and installing the red blades from the Phobya's along with red leds


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> ok thanks i will also be looking for noiseblocker users answers


I've various Noiseblocker's in different systems - all on rads & all in push/pull.
e-Loops - personal favourite for 120mm, quality fan, but no 140mm version yet.
PK 140mm range, have PK-2 and PK-3, prefer PK-3 for extra cooling performance when needed, fan controller keep rpm/noise down.
At full revs they do have a pitch all to their own.
BL range I think is previous model ?? - I've got some P7P on a 240 rad. They are so quiet (think not too powerful) I can't imagine that performance is too great.

I would highly recommend any current Noiseblocker fan from their range.
I also have about 30 AP-15's running, so I'm not biased - but I do like quality fans









Buy the best now (even if have to wait for stock or save extra) then no regrets or having to upgrade later.


----------



## kpoeticg

We always find an excuse to upgrade later


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I know, I know, it's best to use the same fans for push-pull, but according to Martin it isn't that big of a deal if the specs of each fan are close.


I'm running NB E-Loops as push and Enermax TB Silence fans as pull on my 480mm Monsta. The E-Loops are running at 1200rpm and the TB Silence fans at 900rpm. The setup works perfectly. Tested it beforehand to make sure the Enermax's weren't "getting in the way" of the E-Loops but the amount of air moving through the radiator almost seemed to double. And that's at a 300rpm difference. Not much of a difference IMO so I think it's just preference on what fans to run in pull. The reason I did it is because you can't see the Enermax fans









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think he meant he switched to Corsair SP120's. Scythe makes Gentle Typhoons (well Nidec Servo really). AP-15's are the opposite of a gamble. They're widely considered to be the best rad fans with the best SP -> Noise ratio.
> 
> E-Loops are also amazing fans tho


Never went the Scythe route. Went from Yate Loons to the E-Loops.

E-Loops are the best fan ever I highly recommend them to anyone.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm gonna run my Phobya E-Loops in Push with GT AP-15's in Pull. Or actually since i'm gonna most likely grab the Alphacool 2300RPM E-Loops and install the red blades and led's. I'll probly run those in push with AP-00's in pull









E-Loops are awesome. They haven't been around long enough yet to have the "GT Legendary Status" yet tho


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm gonna run my Phobya E-Loops in Push with GT AP-15's in Pull. Or actually since i'm gonna most likely grab the Alphacool 2300RPM E-Loops and install the red blades and led's. I'll probly run those in push with AP-00's in pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E-Loops are awesome. They haven't been around long enough yet to have the "GT Legendary Status" yet tho


Alphacool makes them too!!?!?










awesomesauce.

BUY ALL THE ELOOPS!!!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Alphacool makes a Blue 2300RPM version & Phobya make a Red 1600RPM version

It's interesting that you said it like that tho, cuz Alphacool & Phobya are owned by the same parent company. I wonder if NoiseBlocker falls under that umbrella too


----------



## LiquidHaus

I would say NB sold the patents to Alphacool/Phobya. They're all German companies so maybe they're close.


----------



## kpoeticg

These are the Alphacool version that comes in 1200 & 2300RPM


These are the Phobya 1000RPM version


These are the Phobya 1600RPM version


And these are the regular Noiseblocker ones


I always assumed that they just did a patent deal on it. But like you said they're all German companies. And Phobya & Alphacool are sister companies. It makes me wonder if NB's a sister company of them too.

NOT trying to start a rumor here. Just thinking out loud!!!!!


----------



## fast_fate

I would guess that Alphacool/Phobya have an arrangemenmt with BlackNoise (Noisebloacker) to manufacture fans for them and they are just badged accordingly.
Unless as suggested parent company is same.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Do you know the RPM when running @5V? I have HL Black Ice GTS 360 + XSPC EX240 & SP120 fans (one set of fans on both rads). Running IBT & LinX with fans at 50% & 100% speed, the difference on the hottest core is only ~2 - 3 Celsius. I'm running my fans @50% speed 24/7.


I dunno what RPM they run on 5v, they hardly push air so Im gonna take a wild guess and say some where around 1100RPM or less?

After thinking about it for a while I am pretty surprised how close these fans are in terms of temps on 5v vs 12v. On 5v the fans are dead silent like I can hear my D5 set at 3 with all the fans set to 5v









Im tempted to grab another 3 for push pull on my 360 rad and do another test on 5v vs 12v I think that would show the biggest performance gain







, just means I need to buy the extended top from CaseLabs


----------



## kpoeticg

Keep in mind you're not gonna notice much or any temp difference unless your systems under load. If you're at idle and your systems already close to Delta, faster fans won't do much for your temps.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I think it's funny that all the fans have the same "NB" on the rubber sound dampeners on the corners lol. I guess they didn't feel it necessary to take the other company's name off of them before selling them as their own.


----------



## kpoeticg

They're still sold as Noiseblocker E-Loops
Just Noiseblocker Phobya E-Loops & Noiseblocker Alphacool E-Loops.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21293/fan-1264/Noiseblocker_Alphacool_NB-eLoop_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_2300_RPM_-_3325_dBA_Black_Blue_Edition.html

Noiseblocker's definitely still making all of them cuz the fans are the same except for the specific speeds & colors. I was just curious by the fact that all of em are German companies and 2 out of the 3 are under the same parent company. Could definitely just be a coincidence tho. Either way, they're still Noiseblockers


----------



## lowfat

Anyone here actually try to mount a GTX780 block on a GTX780Ti? I am currently in the process and it doesn't look like it will be much of a problem. Have to add a few more thermal pads but I don't see any major issues.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Keep in mind you're not gonna notice much or any temp difference unless your systems under load. If you're at idle and your systems already close to Delta, faster fans won't do much for your temps.


Yeah I know, I'm gonna try a 4.5GHz clock now and post my results, should be able to show a real difference between my 5 and 12v set up


----------



## kpoeticg

OC'ing should help. But run your temp tests during a CPU stress test.


----------



## Anoxy

Gahh, I finally got my build all finished and booted up, and it turns out the two Corsair fans I recycled from the H100i are really loud and make a weird buzzing noise. So I just ordered two more AP-15s....hoping I can slip them in there without having to take apart my loop


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> OC'ing should help. But run your temp tests during a CPU stress test.


Yeah I always do, normally I use LinX but when Im actually testing a new OC I use OCCT, having a problem with OCCT atm it likes to stop the test coz core 0 hits 83.5 degrees every 5 mins into the test







stupid program, core temp reads core 0s temp at max 68, may go to LinX to test 4.5GHz seeing I have a rough idea of my stable voltage


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm gonna run my Phobya E-Loops in Push with GT AP-15's in Pull. Or actually since i'm gonna most likely grab the Alphacool 2300RPM E-Loops and install the red blades and led's. I'll probly run those in push with AP-00's in pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E-Loops are awesome. They haven't been around long enough yet to have the "GT Legendary Status" yet tho


how do u istall red or any color of led on the fan like eloop fans?


----------



## kpoeticg

I showed a pic of it maybe like 10-15 posts ago. Also in my build log.
The Alphacool & Phobya versions have transparent blades. Just drilled holes in the corners where most fans have their led's. E-Loops are even better for it than most fans because the blades don't separate, so you don't have to worry about messing with the airflow.


----------



## wermad

Has anyone used these:

"Akust *Reversible* 120mm x 25mm Speed Control Fan"

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1050&products_id=29452
Quote:


> Product Details:
> 
> The Akust Reversible 120mm x 25mm Speed Control Fan is a great solution for system builders. This fan allows the control of airflow speed as well as direction! A simple toggle of a switch and your fan becomes an intake or exhaust fan once mounted!
> 
> Specifications:
> 
> Intake
> 
> Speed Range: 1138 - 1620 - 2040 RPM
> Current: 0.11 - 0.19 - 0.26 A
> Air Flow: 18.9 - 38.2 - 66.7 CFM
> Air Pressure: 0.66 - 1.12 - 1.78 mmH20
> Noise: 22.5 - 28.5 34.5 dBA
> Exhaust
> 
> Speed Range: 1250 - 1830 - 2350 RPM
> Current: 0.11 - 0.19 - 0.26 A
> Air Flow: 15.8 - 32.6 - 57 CFM
> Air Pressure: 0.92 - 1.18 - 1.65 mmH20
> Noise: 24.7 - 30.2 - 36.8 dBA


Should come in handy in reverse-thrust braking
















edit: now you can have your fans pointing in the "right" orientation


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn those look real interesting


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm gonna run my Phobya E-Loops in Push with GT AP-15's in Pull. Or actually since i'm gonna most likely grab the Alphacool 2300RPM E-Loops and install the red blades and led's. I'll probly run those in push with AP-00's in pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E-Loops are awesome. They haven't been around long enough yet to have the "GT Legendary Status" yet tho


Haha, i did the same but GT's in push and eloops in pull. Is the eloop blade removable like enermax ones?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Has anyone used these:
> 
> "Akust *Reversible* 120mm x 25mm Speed Control Fan"
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1050&products_id=29452
> Should come in handy in reverse-thrust braking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: now you can have your fans pointing in the "right" orientation


Looks plain like meh lol


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Haha, i did the same but GT's in push and eloops in pull. Is the eloop blade removable like enermax ones?


Yes - eLoop blades are removable


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Looks plain like meh lol


Who cares about looks. Its like wheels, sure looks are good standing still but not when your rolling (cept' spinnahs








).

I'm more interested in what they can do. The spin can be reversed! Interesting


----------



## szeged

on the topic of fan blade removal, anyone know how easy it is to dismantle a gt ap-15? wanna paint all mine black lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

E-Loop blades have a magnet under the rear sticker. Remove the magnet and the blade pulls out.

GT's have a C-Clip (I think that's what its called) under the sticker




Then there's a spring around the spindle and 2 bearings around the spindle that sit inside the housing




You really just gotta be careful removing that little clip and the rest is easy. The clips like to go flying across the room, never to be seen again


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> E-Loop blades have a magnet under the rear sticker. Remove the magnet and the blade pulls out.
> 
> GT's have a C-Clip (I think that's what its called) under the sticker
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then there's a spring around the spindle and 2 bearings around the spindle that sit inside the housing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You really just gotta be careful removing that little clip and the rest is easy. The clips like to go flying across the room, never to be seen again


cool thanks







ill give it a shot.

ill do it in an empty room so i can find the clip once it flings across the room...ive had bad luck in the past with stuff like that lol.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> cool thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill give it a shot.
> 
> ill do it in an empty room so i can find the clip once it flings across the room...ive had bad luck in the past with stuff like that lol.


A magnet works pretty well to catch the clip if it tries to go flying.


----------



## kpoeticg

A magnet didn't help me. I had a magnetic bowl next me and a magnetic telescoping rod on the other side. Still lost a clip


----------



## fast_fate

You can pull (push actually) the eLoop blades off without having to disassemble anything.
Thumbnails from other side under bottom of blade hub and pop the blades off.
No damage - easy


----------



## M3TAl

Cougar Vortexes pop right off in the same way. Painted mine white.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> You can pull (push actually) the eLoop blades off without having to disassemble anything.
> Thumbnails from other side under bottom of blade hub and pop the blades off.
> No damage - easy


It's not good to do that without removing the magnet first. Noctua's are put together the same way and i've heard of people breaking them like that. Peeling the sticker back and taking the small magnet out is hardly a pain.

You still have to pop it off the same way after you take out the magnet, but you don't risk ruining your $20 fan


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Cougar Vortexes pop right off in the same way. Painted mine white.


I've got some red Phobya Noiseblockers on the way that I'm going to swap blades out on the standard.
Then I'll have two custom sets


----------



## LiquidHaus

heyyyyyyy check this out


----------



## iBored

First thing that caught my eye was the front panel.
First reaction from seeing the front panel: zoom in
First thought after I saw the front panel: WOW


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> heyyyyyyy check this out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You've got it finished I see. Nice craftsmanship!


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Cougar Vortexes pop right off in the same way. Painted mine white.


This. I was hoping u could do that wi th eloops like the enermax magma


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Most people seem to love their AP-15s but I was always able to hear a subtle high-frequency whining sound that drove me crazy. I decoupled them with rubber mounts and even tried running adjacent fans at different RPMs to avoid harmonic vibrations (helped a little bit) but in the end I sold them. I switched to Corsair SP120s which ARE louder and don't have the same build quality but to my ear they have a much more pleasant tone. Fan noise/tone seems to be a really subjective thing.


EDIT: Accidentally wrote "Corsair AP-15s". Fixed.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> heyyyyyyy check this out


WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOW


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

An overclocking pic from my build log, 2500k @ 4.5GHz, 1.35v ambient temp is 27 - 30° all under AX 240 & 360 rads with 5 AP-15 fans on 12v... so maxed











Pretty happy with the max temps considering how hot it actually is in my room


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I've various Noiseblocker's in different systems - all on rads & all in push/pull.
> e-Loops - personal favourite for 120mm, quality fan, but no 140mm version yet.
> PK 140mm range, have PK-2 and PK-3, prefer PK-3 for extra cooling performance when needed, fan controller keep rpm/noise down.
> At full revs they do have a pitch all to their own.
> BL range I think is previous model ?? - I've got some P7P on a 240 rad. They are so quiet (think not too powerful) I can't imagine that performance is too great.
> 
> I would highly recommend any current Noiseblocker fan from their range.
> I also have about 30 AP-15's running, so I'm not biased - but I do like quality fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buy the best now (even if have to wait for stock or save extra) then no regrets or having to upgrade later.


thanks for the info .Which version of the Noiseblockers should i buy for the best performance and the noise ratio? They will be used for 2x ut 60 480mm,(900d)1 top radiator will be push and pull.Buttom radiator will be push only.Here is the chart.
B12-1800rpm 3 Pin 5.4 V / 12.0 V8 dBA57.3 m3
B12-21300rpm3 Pin 3.4 V / 12.0 V17 dBA86.9 m3
B12-31900rpm3 Pin 3.4 V / 12.0 V27 dBA121.2 m3
B12-42400rpm3 Pin 3.3 V / 12.0 V34 dBA150.3 m3
B12-PS1500rpm4 Pin (PWM)6.2 V / 12.0 V21 dBA98.7 m3
B12-P2000rpm4 Pin (PWM)6.0 V / 12.0 V28 dBA


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks for the info .Which version of the Noiseblockers should i buy for the best performance and the noise ratio? They will be used for 2x ut 60 480mm,(900d)1 top radiator will be push and pull.Buttom radiator will be push only.Here is the chart.
> B12-1800rpm 3 Pin 5.4 V / 12.0 V8 dBA57.3 m3
> B12-21300rpm3 Pin 3.4 V / 12.0 V17 dBA86.9 m3
> B12-31900rpm3 Pin 3.4 V / 12.0 V27 dBA121.2 m3
> B12-42400rpm3 Pin 3.3 V / 12.0 V34 dBA150.3 m3
> B12-PS1500rpm4 Pin (PWM)6.2 V / 12.0 V21 dBA98.7 m3
> B12-P2000rpm4 Pin (PWM)6.0 V / 12.0 V28 dBA


Everyone has a different tolerance to noise and what they deem acceptable in their build.
I'm not so fussed about the noise over performance so I'ld most likely go B12-3's all round.

For a quieter option the B12-2 will work well in P&P with the B12-3 for the push only up top
I'm not sure that dropping down to the silent 800rpm will help you much for cooling, I wouldn't go for them.

OR go for the B12-PS all round


----------



## szeged

do noiseblocker fan blades still contact some radiator fins when used in a pull configuration? or did they fix that?


----------



## kpoeticg

I wonder how the noise is on the PWM versions. I'd probly get a 2000RPM PWM model instead of a lower speed restricted model, unless there's issues with the lower speeds on PWM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> do noiseblocker fan blades still contact some radiator fins when used in a pull configuration? or did they fix that?


They only bulge out really a TINY bit. I'm pretty sure even a 3mm xspc gasket would fix that. I've heard the blade being designed like that is what makes em a little noisier in pull. I haven't tested em in pull tho


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I wonder how the noise is on the PWM versions. I'd probly get a 2000RPM PWM model instead of a lower speed restricted model, unless there's issues with the lower speeds on PWM
> They only bulge out really a TINY bit. I'm pretty sure even a 3mm xspc gasket would fix that. I've heard the blade being designed like that is what makes em a little noisier in pull. I haven't tested em in pull tho


i havent used them personally so i wouldnt know, but from some videos ive seen, they supposedly make a clicking sound or something when used in pull :x


----------



## kpoeticg

If they weren't using a rad gasket in the video, that clicking sound might've been the fins being smacked around


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I dunno what RPM they run on 5v, they hardly push air so Im gonna take a wild guess and say some where around 1100RPM or less?
> 
> After thinking about it for a while I am pretty surprised how close these fans are in terms of temps on 5v vs 12v. On 5v the fans are dead silent like I can hear my D5 set at 3 with all the fans set to 5v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im tempted to grab another 3 for push pull on my 360 rad and do another test on 5v vs 12v I think that would show the biggest performance gain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just means I need to buy the extended top from CaseLabs


When running SP120 at 50% speed, it also doesn't feels like it pushing a lot of air. However when running IBT or LinX stress test, I only see 2 to 3 Celsius difference on the hottest core between running the fans at 50% & 100% speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I know, I'm gonna try a 4.5GHz clock now and post my results, should be able to show a real difference between my 5 and 12v set up


You did run LinX when you posted the temp for 5V & 12V, right? BTW, mine at 4.75GHz when doing the comparison.


----------



## fast_fate

Paying over $200 for Premium Worldwide shipping with DHL to Australia
and 3 WEEKS after dispatch in Geramny
this dog just got delivered.

THANKS FOR NOTHING DHL






















I was most worried about the 2 x 560 rads that are in there









  
  


After inspection inside I can report that the rads have only minor fin damage - not what I would have liked but......
Adding to that I honestly believe that that damage was caused by poor packing of the carton by Aqua Tuning.
the 2 rads were at bottom with fins facing up & down.
rest of order including some heavy blocks were dumped on top - what were they hoping for ???
If the rads were packed on their side I'm sure I would have received the rads in much better, maybe even perfect condition.

Interestingly - I ordered 2 x 560 Alphacool UT60 high performance kits,
and received 1 x Alphacool and 1 x Phobya rad (and the fans)
Only difference at a glance was the Phobya has less ports.
Strange


----------



## neSSa

Thank you all, MB i use that already has led ( Maximus V Formula ), Laing D5 pump is working ok, the maximum temperature up to 60C on CPU and 55C on the GPU by stress, all components are overclocked ( 4.3GHz cpu, 1100/1700 gpu)


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> When running SP120 at 50% speed, it also doesn't feels like it pushing a lot of air. However when running IBT or LinX stress test, I only see 2 to 3 Celsius difference on the hottest core between running the fans at 50% & 100% speed.


I only seen about 1 - 3 difference between the cores on 5v, 12v its more like yours 2 - 5 I think mine are
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You did run LinX when you posted the temp for 5V & 12V, right? BTW, mine at 4.75GHz when doing the comparison.


I always run LinX when I test temps unless Im testing an overclock then I run OCCT, my OC is only 4.5GHz tho, its as high as I can seem to get it at 1.35v which is my safe voltage









I have all my overclocking & temp results in my build log, just didnt wanna spam this thread with them


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Everyone has a different tolerance to noise and what they deem acceptable in their build.
> I'm not so fussed about the noise over performance so I'ld most likely go B12-3's all round.
> 
> For a quieter option the B12-2 will work well in P&P with the B12-3 for the push only up top
> I'm not sure that dropping down to the silent 800rpm will help you much for cooling, I wouldn't go for them.
> 
> OR go for the B12-PS all round


i was thinking of going with b12p3 all round with push and pull and wil control them with a fan controller
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> do noiseblocker fan blades still contact some radiator fins when used in a pull configuration? or did they fix that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I wonder how the noise is on the PWM versions. I'd probly get a 2000RPM PWM model instead of a lower speed restricted model, unless there's issues with the lower speeds on PWM
> They only bulge out really a TINY bit. I'm pretty sure even a 3mm xspc gasket would fix that. I've heard the blade being designed like that is what makes em a little noisier in pull. I haven't tested em in pull tho


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i havent used them personally so i wouldnt know, but from some videos ive seen, they supposedly make a clicking sound or something when used in pull :x


thats bad news using 3mm gasket will really fix that?


----------



## kpoeticg

Using a 3mm gasket should fix it from hitting the fins. They bulge out the front just a little. Dunno about the noise issue tho.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> Thank you all, MB i use that already has led ( Maximus V Formula ), Laing D5 pump is working ok, the maximum temperature up to 60C on CPU and 55C on the GPU by stress, all components are overclocked ( 4.3GHz cpu, 1100/1700 gpu)


Looks very unique..ima do just dat..parallel hmm..should have negligible temp disparity due to thermal equilibrium presumably O.0 just to be sure lulz


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> First thing that caught my eye was the front panel.
> First reaction from seeing the front panel: zoom in
> First thought after I saw the front panel: WOW


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You've got it finished I see. Nice craftsmanship!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOW


Haha I'm glad you like it guys. The side panel isn't the final one. I have two, and the one pictured is the original side window panel that I modified, making the window larger and also the cut out for the 480 rad. The other and final panel is solid, and I wil be doing a different window design to incorporate an Aquaero 6. So it's not COMPLETELY finished, but I would like to do MOTM for December if anyone would want to nominate me


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Using a 3mm gasket should fix it from hitting the fins. They bulge out the front just a little. Dunno about the noise issue tho.


i am really confused i will pay $400 for the fans and will be really upset if they make that noise


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Paying over $200 for Premium Worldwide shipping with DHL to Australia
> and 3 WEEKS after dispatch in Geramny
> this dog just got delivered.
> 
> THANKS FOR NOTHING DHL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was most worried about the 2 x 560 rads that are in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After inspection inside I can report that the rads have only minor fin damage - not what I would have liked but......
> Adding to that I honestly believe that that damage was caused by poor packing of the carton by Aqua Tuning.
> the 2 rads were at bottom with fins facing up & down.
> rest of order including some heavy blocks were dumped on top - what were they hoping for ???
> If the rads were packed on their side I'm sure I would have received the rads in much better, maybe even perfect condition.
> 
> Interestingly - I ordered 2 x 560 Alphacool UT60 high performance kits,
> and received 1 x Alphacool and 1 x Phobya rad (and the fans)
> Only difference at a glance was the Phobya has less ports.
> Strange


Not really,Phobya and Alphacool come out of the same company.....and that company is less than legit IMO.


----------



## ervhamzz213

hey guys! i would like to share my 1st errrrr..... 2nd watercooled build. the 1st was a mess so lets consider this 1st.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I only seen about 1 - 3 difference between the cores on 5v, 12v its more like yours 2 - 5 I think mine are


Not between cores. I meant the difference on the hottest core between 5V vs. 12V. Mine for example, with 50% fan speed, hottest core is 74C & with 100% fan speed, hottest core is 71C. The difference there is 3C. I see same difference whether I'm running IBT or LinX or Prime95. I don't use OCCT though.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Not between cores. I meant the difference on the hottest core between 5V vs. 12V. Mine for example, with 50% fan speed, hottest core is 74C & with 100% fan speed, hottest core is 71C. The difference there is 3C. I see same difference whether I'm running IBT or LinX or Prime95. I don't use OCCT though.


Ah oops, yeah my difference between 5 and 12v is 6.25 degrees, apparently thats heaps









I only use LinX or OCCT, hate Prime95







yeah I said it


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Paying over $200 for Premium Worldwide shipping with DHL to Australia
> and 3 WEEKS after dispatch in Geramny
> this dog just got delivered.
> 
> THANKS FOR NOTHING DHL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was most worried about the 2 x 560 rads that are in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After inspection inside I can report that the rads have only minor fin damage - not what I would have liked but......
> Adding to that I honestly believe that that damage was caused by poor packing of the carton by Aqua Tuning.
> the 2 rads were at bottom with fins facing up & down.
> rest of order including some heavy blocks were dumped on top - what were they hoping for ???
> If the rads were packed on their side I'm sure I would have received the rads in much better, maybe even perfect condition.
> 
> Interestingly - I ordered 2 x 560 Alphacool UT60 high performance kits,
> and received 1 x Alphacool and 1 x Phobya rad (and the fans)
> Only difference at a glance was the Phobya has less ports.
> Strange


My god, were they kicking that box to Australia or what?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> hey guys! i would like to share my 1st errrrr..... 2nd watercooled build. the 1st was a mess so lets consider this 1st.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love it! Looks very clean and tasteful.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am really confused i will pay $400 for the fans and will be really upset if they make that noise


The scraping noise if that is what people are discussing here would be the blade assembly on the rad fan mounting strip or whatever you call it.

In an attempt to put this issue to rest I just test fitted an eLoop BL12-3 to an Alphacool rad.



Using only the gear supplied with the fan,
rubber insert in each corner top and bottom - check
threaded washer onto the 3mm bolt - check.
insert the screw with the threaded washer through the first corner grommet, through fan and 2nd grommet - check
screw down the fan 'til the rubber grommets start to compress - check.
here is the picture...quite a gap you see



Now I push down quite firmly on the blades....
yes there is movement of maybe 1.5mm and I guess this movement is what comes into play when the fans are spun up...maybe ?????
and without the corner grommet installed between fan and rad or fan and case - whatever.
still a gap though, and I am pushing firmly.
Notice the rubber in corner compressed more when I am pushing blade down.



Fitted like this with supplied hardware - I say impossible for the blades to scrape on anything !!!!


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> I love it! Looks very clean and tasteful.


noooooooooooo!! it isn't tastyyyyyyyyyyy!! i named it 生理 which is a japanese term for menstruation.


----------



## Lisjak

Lol.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> hey guys! i would like to share my 1st errrrr..... 2nd watercooled build. the 1st was a mess so lets consider this 1st.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice clean loop - looks great


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Nice clean loop - looks great


thanks boss!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am really confused i will pay $400 for the fans and will be really upset if they make that noise


The blades on the eloops bulge out the front a VERY tiny bit. This "CAN" make them hit your rads fins, ONLY if you run them in pull. Any kind of gasket/grommet would fix this, but supposedly because the blades bulge like that, it also makes em noiser in pull

I personally dunno cuz i haven't used em in pull. I'm pretty sure even NB says they aren't designed for pull tho


----------



## tmcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Paying over $200 for Premium Worldwide shipping with DHL to Australia
> and 3 WEEKS after dispatch in Geramny
> this dog just got delivered.
> 
> THANKS FOR NOTHING DHL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was most worried about the 2 x 560 rads that are in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After inspection inside I can report that the rads have only minor fin damage - not what I would have liked but......
> Adding to that I honestly believe that that damage was caused by poor packing of the carton by Aqua Tuning.
> the 2 rads were at bottom with fins facing up & down.
> rest of order including some heavy blocks were dumped on top - what were they hoping for ???
> If the rads were packed on their side I'm sure I would have received the rads in much better, maybe even perfect condition.
> 
> Interestingly - I ordered 2 x 560 Alphacool UT60 high performance kits,
> and received 1 x Alphacool and 1 x Phobya rad (and the fans)
> Only difference at a glance was the Phobya has less ports.
> Strange


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Q6_9A90cUk

....


----------



## kpoeticg

The UT60 & G-Changer are the same rad minus the extra ports. The reason for that is Phobya & Alphacool are owned by the same company.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The scraping noise if that is what people are discussing here would be the blade assembly on the rad fan mounting strip or whatever you call it.
> 
> In an attempt to put this issue to rest I just test fitted an eLoop BL12-3 to an Alphacool rad.
> 
> 
> 
> Using only the gear supplied with the fan,
> rubber insert in each corner top and bottom - check
> threaded washer onto the 3mm bolt - check.
> insert the screw with the threaded washer through the first corner grommet, through fan and 2nd grommet - check
> screw down the fan 'til the rubber grommets start to compress - check.
> here is the picture...quite a gap you see
> 
> 
> 
> Now I push down quite firmly on the blades....
> yes there is movement of maybe 1.5mm and I guess this movement is what comes into play when the fans are spun up...maybe ?????
> and without the corner grommet installed between fan and rad or fan and case - whatever.
> still a gap though, and I am pushing firmly.
> Notice the rubber in corner compressed more when I am pushing blade down.
> 
> 
> 
> Fitted like this with supplied hardware - I say impossible for the blades to scrape on anything !!!!


thanks for the clarification.Are you going to use these eloops as push and pull?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks for the clarification.Are you going to use these eloops as push and pull?


Yes I will be P&P but looking something more like this









 

Notice the Phobya branded eLoops have a sleeved cable, where original Noiseblocker are supplied with extension

Oh - and ozzy, don't forget your spoiler when quoting a post with a lot of pics


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yes I will be P&P but looking something more like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the Phobya branded eLoops have a sleeved cable, where original Noiseblocker are supplied with extension
> 
> Oh - and ozzy, don't forget your spoiler when quoting a post with a lot of pics


That is really sexy..


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that looks excellent. Pretty sure i have to go with the 2400RPM NB E-Loops now with the red blades instead of the Alphacool ones. Especially with my RIVE BE build. That'll look perfect!!
I was just gonna put the red corners and blades from the Phobya's into the Alphacool body.

I def owe u a rep for showin me what that looks like!!!


----------



## _REAPER_

I have had no issues with NB Fans at all. I would highly recommend them.


----------



## kpoeticg

No build log? That things gorgeous!!!

NVM, just looking at your specs makes me like my build less. You're build log would make me sad


----------



## Gardnerphotos

How loud are e-loops? Comparable to Sp120s? Nocuta? They seem pretty good looking but I want something quiet.


----------



## kpoeticg

I only have the 1600RPM Phobya E-Loops and ive only run them in open air. Whisper quiet at full speed tho. Can't hear em at all. Still working on my build so haven't mounted em on a rad yet...

E-Loops have way more power under the hood than Noctua's. You can't really compare the 2.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I have had no issues with NB Fans at all. I would highly recommend them.


OMG!!!!! MY FAV RAM/CPU BLK/MOBO/FANS!


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I only have the 1600RPM Phobya E-Loops and ive only run them in open air. Whisper quiet at full speed tho. Can't hear em at all. Still working on my build so haven't mounted em on a rad yet...
> 
> E-Loops have way more power under the hood than Noctua's. You can't really compare the 2.


So for SILENCE only, which is quieter running at around 800-1000 RPM? I need to know because for the desk build I am planning I am going to have 4 840mm rads which would require 24 fans or 48 if I go P/P


----------



## rickyman0319

have you guys use this fans before: Phobya 120mm x 25mm Nano-2G 1500rpm PWM Fan - Red LED ?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13534/fan-887/Phobya_120mm_x_25mm_Nano-2G_1500rpm_PWM_Fan_-_Red_LED.html?tl=g36c365s936


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yes I will be P&P but looking something more like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the Phobya branded eLoops have a sleeved cable, where original Noiseblocker are supplied with extension
> 
> Oh - and ozzy, don't forget your spoiler when quoting a post with a lot of pics


yea forgot that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I have had no issues with NB Fans at all. I would highly recommend them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


what model are these eloops ?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I have had no issues with NB Fans at all. I would highly recommend them.


Dear lord , she is a beauty
It deserves an exclusive photoshoot, on the beach and let me rub the sunscreen on her


----------



## _REAPER_

I will do a build log when I get home on RR in December I have many upgrades that will be taking place shortly. 11 days 6 hours 18 min until I leave AFG headed home.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I only have the 1600RPM Phobya E-Loops and ive only run them in open air. Whisper quiet at full speed tho. Can't hear em at all. Still working on my build so haven't mounted em on a rad yet...
> 
> E-Loops have way more power under the hood than Noctua's. You can't really compare the 2.






Noctua's lineup isn't as new as Noiseblocker's. There are I believe more fans in Noctua's line though, I will still happily take a superior fan over Noctua. I think they're honestly quieter and push more air, and are better equipped out of the box for a radiator fan.

-Zepp


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> Noctua's lineup isn't as new as Noiseblocker's. There are I believe more fans in Noctua's line though, I will still happily take a superior fan over Noctua. I think they're honestly quieter and push more air, and are better equipped out of the box for a radiator fan.
> 
> -Zepp


http://www.overclock.net/t/1389355/fan-testing-round-12-begins-thanks-to-cpachris-and-prymus-nb-e-loop-sp120-nf-f12-cougar-vortex-pwm-vortex-red-led-pirahna-ap-45/0_20#post_19928588
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I will say subjectively the noiseblocker e-loops are doing pretty well checking at 500FPM or 1500RPM. They don't measure quite as low in noise level as the Typhoons, but MUCH better than the Noctua or Piranha and a very nice noise quality. Once they go over 1500RPM though it seems that noise starts to pick up quite a bit. Without the meters and just going by ear, they sound very good...I'm impressed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take a listen at like air flow levels and see what you think..


Noctua's aren't all that great IMO. Plus they are ugly as sin.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New EK Ascendancy controller,150w.....could be a new aquaero beater.
After being lied to by AC,My money could be spent on this unit and the XT5 goes back in the cupboard.





Do i have the heart to tell them they spelt Ascendancy wrong?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New EK Ascendancy controller,150w.....could be a new aquaero beater.
> After being lied to by AC,My money could be spent on this unit and the XT5 goes back in the cupboard.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh wow. Now I wish I would have waited a little longer before buying a lamptron


----------



## jleslie246

Water cooled fan controller ? Really?


----------



## Anoxy

The aquaero has a waterblock as well....apparently they get pretty hot if you're running lots of stuff on them.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New EK Ascendancy controller,150w.....could be a new aquaero beater.
> After being lied to by AC,My money could be spent on this unit and the XT5 goes back in the cupboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do i have the heart to tell them they spelt Ascendancy wrong?


Estimated price? Cmon BNeg. Tell me your gut feeling.


----------



## VSG

The non-display model isn't out till atleast March, 2014 so people considering this now should not really wait for it.


----------



## szeged

less than the aquero by a good bit, but still enough to make normal users go


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New EK Ascendancy controller,150w.....could be a new aquaero beater.
> After being lied to by AC,My money could be spent on this unit and the XT5 goes back in the cupboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do i have the heart to tell them they spelt Ascendancy wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> Estimated price? Cmon BNeg. Tell me your gut feeling.
Click to expand...

Wont be more than 150 GBP but that is just a gut feeling.
Niko will stick his head in and comment more i should imagine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The aquaero has a waterblock as well....apparently they get pretty hot if you're running lots of stuff on them.


Not strictly true,they get hot when there is a lot of stuff dialled down,run it flat out and the heat is fine for the stock HS


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The aquaero has a waterblock as well....apparently they get pretty hot if you're running lots of stuff on them.


The Aquaero 5 and before would get pretty hot depending on what all you had hooked up to it (pretty much all fan controllers do), and it had a heatsink or waterblock option. AquaComputer claims with the new Aquaero 6 model they changed all that, and doesn't get very hot any more, not enough to need a heatsink or waterblock, but in the Aquaero 6 thread the rep did say he thought they would be coming out with an Aquaero 6 compatible heatsink & block eventually anyway for those who might want it in any case.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/0_20
Quote:


> The new aquaero 6 is an improved version of the aquaero 5. Our main target was a dramatic increase of the available power on the outputs. Other than the aquaero 5 which works with an analog voltage control, this time we used very efficient switching controllers of the latest generation. The performance capability of the aquaero 5 is mainly limited by the temperature of the voltage regulators since they become pretty hot when you attach some stuff and use it with lower voltages. The aquaero 6 has no problems in this area and the maximum power is only limited by the current which means you can go to the limits without worrying about the temperatures. ...


All that said, I am VERY interested to hear more about this new EK controller!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I have had no issues with NB Fans at all. I would highly recommend them.


That looks absolutely gorgeous. A true work of art!


----------



## szeged

so since we have been on the topic of fans for like the past 5 pages, anyone know where i can get something like this besides frozencpu?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14664/ele-990/4-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_5xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-4-53.html?tl=g47c121s424

Shipping from them costs more than the actual product to get it to me


----------



## OverSightX

Finally got one of the two 290s I plan on getting. 290 unlocked/flashed and Waterblock/back plate on and ready to be installed tonight! Will update with it in the rig soon. :


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so since we have been on the topic of fans for like the past 5 pages, anyone know where i can get something like this besides frozencpu?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14664/ele-990/4-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_5xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-4-53.html?tl=g47c121s424
> 
> Shipping from them costs more than the actual product to get it to me


Find anyone with an NZXT case who would be willing to mail you the default fan splitter PCB that comes with their higher end cases (I would, but I gave it to a friend :X)


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Find anyone with an NZXT case who would be willing to mail you the default fan splitter PCB that comes with their higher end cases (I would, but I gave it to a friend :X)


im stuck here lol, performance pc's only has the expensive bitspower ones, and they charge florida tax and the shipping is stupid. then frozencpu has the exact kind i need but the shipping is stupid, even for the realllllly slow shipping. and i cant find them anywhere else lol, and i would prefer to shy away from begging for unused parts from people


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

How about this? ...

http://www.xoxide.com/modmytoys-4pcb-5wayblock.html


----------



## wermad

Phobya sells a smaller one (six fan header). I know HellFireToyz has it on ebay and amazon.

I'm using five of the ModMyToys 8-headers and two of the 5-headers for all 52 of my R4s. I got the molex ones but from experience they can easily come loose from pcb rendering it useless. I would recommend get the fan or 6-pin input connector ones.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> How about this? ...
> 
> http://www.xoxide.com/modmytoys-4pcb-5wayblock.html


better but the shipping is still 50 cents more than the product rofl







i might go with it though, thanks!

edit - i actually just found one on performance pcs, i typed in the full name and it popped up lol, added it to my previous order to get free shipping


----------



## NYMD

Great that you found it... All of the online stores using crap like OS Commerce have horrible search engines. Better to do something like this in google

siteerformance-pcs.com MODEL NUMBER or PRODUCT

I found at least 3 things on my list that way that I couldn't find using their site nav or search.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Great that you found it... All of the online stores using crap like OS Commerce have horrible search engines. Better to do something like this in google
> 
> siteerformance-pcs.com MODEL NUMBER or PRODUCT
> 
> I found at least 3 things on my list that way that I couldn't find using their site nav or search.


yeah their search bars are the worst, i went through every single tab they had, didnt find it. Had to type in the item name model and sku# to find it lol.


----------



## Trolle BE

are those E-loops really that good?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> are those E-loops really that good?


check out Martinsliquidlab.org they perform rather well.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> are those E-loops really that good?


Check the link I posted on the top of the last page. Martinm210 posted videos how each sounds. The eLoops are good. Similar noise levels as a GT AP-15 when at similiar air flow levels. But the noise profile is different. I personally found the AP-15s a bit more enjoyable. The downside is they don't have PWM.


----------



## szeged

Yeah apparently they are "louder" but the sound they make is more pleasing to the ear than other fans, so its a good trade off.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> are those E-loops really that good?
> 
> 
> 
> Check the link I posted on the top of the last page. Martinm210 posted videos how each sounds. The eLoops are good. Similar noise levels as a GT AP-15 when at similiar air flow levels. But the noise profile is different. I personally found the AP-15s a bit more enjoyable. The downside is they don't have PWM.
Click to expand...

You need to try these...


----------



## Trolle BE

and those are?


----------



## NYMD

Here is SilentPC Review's look at the E-loop. They did not prefer the noise quality especially of the PWMs.

From the SPCR result page with recordings of all the fans:
Quote:


> The clear standout of the fans tested today was the Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-2, which went toe-to-toe with the winner from our last roundup, the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120-12. Still, we prefer the sound quality of the Gentle Typhoon and Noiseblocker M12 as they have more innocuous, broadband profiles. The B12-2 is an extremely effective fan for cooling but its acoustics are only average.


I like GTs and I just bought 12 more bought I also got 2 e-loops just to see as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> and those are?


Alpenfohn Wingboost PWM.

They daisy chain out of the box,come with 5v and 7v inline resistors,rubber mounts.
1500 rpm,19 dba.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Daisy chaining.... Hell yes.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Alpenfohn Wingboost PWM.
> 
> They daisy chain out of the box,come with 5v and 7v inline resistors,rubber mounts.
> 1500 rpm,19 dba.


Does anyone sell these with international shipping ?


----------



## wermad

Anyone running a Koolance 80mm tube res setup?


----------



## pc-illiterate

send me your old crappy res wermad. i can put it to use. my loop is already ugly as sin. and i know that res works well with a 35x.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> send me your old crappy res wermad. i can put it to use. my loop is already ugly as sin. and i know that res works well with a 35x.


Not sure what I will do but I just found a buildlog w/ exactly I was looking for. 80mm Looks chunky when hooked up to the Koolance ddc top. I have a few ideas of what I may do. If the old res goes, it will be for sale







.

Options:
-FrozenQ quad fusion res w/ ek ddc top
-Switch to Koolance 80mm tube res setup, keep Koolance ddc top
-A couple of Phobya tube reservoirs w/ ek ddc top
-keep the ugly thing and run dye


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running a Koolance 80mm tube res setup?


My Lian Li has one.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running a Koolance 80mm tube res setup?


Like this one?



Darlene


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New EK Ascendancy controller,150w.....could be a new aquaero beater.
> After being lied to by AC,My money could be spent on this unit and the XT5 goes back in the cupboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do i have the heart to tell them they spelt Ascendancy wrong?


Please tell me they're planning on a black (or perhaps red) PCB version? Would look so much better ^_^


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My Lian Li has one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Like this one?
> 
> Darlene


Thanks guys:thumb:.

I found one exactly how I was thinking of setting it up if I go w/ this route:

Quote:


>


http://www.overclock.net/t/1440154/build-log-alexstrasza-s-shrine-case-labs-s5

I have their ddc top and there's an adapter to attach the 80mm reservoirs to the 60mm ddc top.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> About to post a reanimation build log for the core 2 - Here is a sneak peak
> 
> Case - Antec 902
> Dual Push Pull config XSPC Rad in the front
> 250ML FrozenQ T-Virus Reservoir
> XSPC 7970 GPU Water block
> XSPC Raystorm


What pump are you using for that res?


----------



## derickwm

The final PCB will be black. The price hasn't been set yet but I can say it will be very competitive


----------



## 1V4N

Here is my latest mini PC build featuring one of the coolest new cases from BitFenix:

Intel Core i7 - 4770K LGA1150 w/ XSPC Raystorm Intel CPU block
ASRock Z87E-ITX Mini ITX
MSI GEFORCE GTX670 ([email protected]/OC) w/ EK GTX670 GPU block
Corsair 8GB Vengeance DDR3-1600 (2x 4GB)
OCZ Vertex 3 (2x 120GB in RAID 0 configuration)
BitFenix Colossus Mini ITX
NZXT HALE82 850W Modular 80Plus Bronze PSU
XSPC 240 radiator
XSPC Laing DDC Reservoir
Swiftech 3/8" x 5/8" Lok Seal Black compression fittings
LAING DDC PWM pump
Primochill PrimoFlex UV tubing
Ice Dragon Cooling Nano Technology Fluid
BitFenix Spectre Pro LED fans
etc....



































Next build after this, will be a mATX custom loop


----------



## wermad

^^^Sweet


----------



## ledzepp3

Just though I'd share some pictures I took of parts I got today













-Zepp


----------



## Anoxy

I love those fans. So pretty.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1V4N*
> 
> Here is my latest mini PC build featuring one of the coolest new cases from BitFenix:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Intel Core i7 - 4770K LGA1150 w/ XSPC Raystorm Intel CPU block
> ASRock Z87E-ITX Mini ITX
> MSI GEFORCE GTX670 ([email protected]/OC) w/ EK GTX670 GPU block
> Corsair 8GB Vengeance DDR3-1600 (2x 4GB)
> OCZ Vertex 3 (2x 120GB in RAID 0 configuration)
> BitFenix Colossus Mini ITX
> NZXT HALE82 850W Modular 80Plus Bronze PSU
> XSPC 240 radiator
> XSPC Laing DDC Reservoir
> Swiftech 3/8" x 5/8" Lok Seal Black compression fittings
> LAING DDC PWM pump
> Primochill PrimoFlex UV tubing
> Ice Dragon Cooling Nano Technology Fluid
> BitFenix Spectre Pro LED fans
> etc....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next build after this, will be a mATX custom loop


Sweet build man.








That's a build log worth of pics tho LOLLLLL. You should start a build log instead next time & just post some highlight pics in here.


----------



## Anoxy

That Bitfenix case is just screaming for a Charlie Brown build....


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The final PCB will be black. The price hasn't been set yet but I can say it will be _very _competitive


good news sir









I wanna be one of the first to get it. I'm already brainstorming on placement.

Any chance I could get the pcb dimensions?

Gotta figure for aesthetics


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1V4N*
> 
> Here is my latest mini PC build featuring one of the coolest new cases from BitFenix:
> 
> Intel Core i7 - 4770K LGA1150 w/ XSPC Raystorm Intel CPU block
> ASRock Z87E-ITX Mini ITX
> MSI GEFORCE GTX670 ([email protected]/OC) w/ EK GTX670 GPU block
> Corsair 8GB Vengeance DDR3-1600 (2x 4GB)
> OCZ Vertex 3 (2x 120GB in RAID 0 configuration)
> BitFenix Colossus Mini ITX
> NZXT HALE82 850W Modular 80Plus Bronze PSU
> XSPC 240 radiator
> XSPC Laing DDC Reservoir
> Swiftech 3/8" x 5/8" Lok Seal Black compression fittings
> LAING DDC PWM pump
> Primochill PrimoFlex UV tubing
> Ice Dragon Cooling Nano Technology Fluid
> BitFenix Spectre Pro LED fans
> etc....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next build after this, will be a mATX custom loop


Very nice... love the lighting!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sweet build man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a build log worth of pics tho LOLLLLL. You should start a build log instead next time & just post some highlight pics in here.


I thought the purpose of this thread was to proudly show off one's hard work.







The pics are a refreshing treat after reading 50 pages worth of fan discussions. But now I just gained a degree in areonautics for free LOL


----------



## Gleniu

I need some help guys, please







After tearing down my VGA block, cleaning (very soft brush) and flushing I can see this:




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









There are around 10 spots like this. Fins area is perfectly clean, the same with my CPU block.
The block has been under water for ~10 months, but I have flushed it 4 months ago (no tearing down then).
Here's my water cooling stuff:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Koolance CPU-380I Water Block
EK-FC670 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel + EK-FC670 GTX DCII Backplate - Black
3 x Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm
Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE
XSPC Tank Reservoir - Laing D5 / MCP655 w/ Blue LED Light - Acrylic
Bitspower black matte fittings 16/10mm (3/8 5/8")
Masterkleer 16/10mm (3/8 5/8") UV blue
Deionized water plus Mayhem's biocide




So... my questions are:
1. What is this stuff?
2. What is causing that?
3. Any way of getting rid of it?
4. Should I be worried for future use?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> I need some help guys, please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After tearing down my VGA block, cleaning (very soft brush) and flushing I can see this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are around 10 spots like this. Fins area is perfectly clean, the same with my CPU block.
> The block has been under water for ~10 months, but I have flushed it 4 months ago (no tearing down then).
> Here's my water cooling stuff:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance CPU-380I Water Block
> EK-FC670 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel + EK-FC670 GTX DCII Backplate - Black
> 3 x Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm
> Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE
> XSPC Tank Reservoir - Laing D5 / MCP655 w/ Blue LED Light - Acrylic
> Bitspower black matte fittings 16/10mm (3/8 5/8")
> Masterkleer 16/10mm (3/8 5/8") UV blue
> Deionized water plus Mayhem's biocide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So... my questions are:
> 1. What is this stuff?
> 2. What is causing that?
> 3. Any way of getting rid of it?
> 4. Should I be worried for future use?


You know what that is.....dont make me say it....

RMA it,it will only get worse.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> I need some help guys, please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After tearing down my VGA block, cleaning (very soft brush) and flushing I can see this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are around 10 spots like this. Fins area is perfectly clean, the same with my CPU block.
> The block has been under water for ~10 months, but I have flushed it 4 months ago (no tearing down then).
> Here's my water cooling stuff:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance CPU-380I Water Block
> EK-FC670 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel + EK-FC670 GTX DCII Backplate - Black
> 3 x Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm
> Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE
> XSPC Tank Reservoir - Laing D5 / MCP655 w/ Blue LED Light - Acrylic
> Bitspower black matte fittings 16/10mm (3/8 5/8")
> Masterkleer 16/10mm (3/8 5/8") UV blue
> Deionized water plus Mayhem's biocide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So... my questions are:
> 1. What is this stuff?
> 2. What is causing that?
> 3. Any way of getting rid of it?
> 4. Should I be worried for future use?


EK and nickel failure isn't surprising. Try some nickel cleaning compound. If you see what looks like "rust" stains/spots, that's the exposed copper. You can hit up EK support for assistance/rma if you're the original purchaser.

Btw, it shouldn't affect your loop at all. I had terrible failure on several blocks and I never had temp degradation or component failure damage due to the "flaking".


----------



## kpoeticg

Could be the metals in your loop corroding. If any of your nickel blocks have poor plating, and the nickel starts to flake, it coulda corroded the rest of your copper & nickel.

*I'd wait til some1 with better experience is around before u worry.* I'm just throwin that out there cuz it's late in alot of places....

LMAO, looks like 2 of those people were responding while i was typing


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Could be the metals in your loop corroding. If any of your nickel blocks have poor plating, and the nickel starts to flake, it coulda corroded the rest of your copper & nickel.
> 
> I'd wait til some1 with better experience is around before u worry. I'm just throwin that out there cuz it's late in alot of places....


EN were known to give as well:

http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info

Things settled down w/ CSQ. Interesting enough, a lot of us suspected the "frosted" csq look was to mask obvious signs of plating failure. I have yet to see a CSQ or newer nickel block fail. As a precaution, I recommend anyone using EK nickel plated blocks, use what they prescribe and use silver at your own (and warranty voiding) risk







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> I need some help guys, please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After tearing down my VGA block, cleaning (very soft brush) and flushing I can see this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are around 10 spots like this. Fins area is perfectly clean, the same with my CPU block.
> The block has been under water for ~10 months, but I have flushed it 4 months ago (no tearing down then).
> Here's my water cooling stuff:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance CPU-380I Water Block
> EK-FC670 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel + EK-FC670 GTX DCII Backplate - Black
> 3 x Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm
> Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE
> XSPC Tank Reservoir - Laing D5 / MCP655 w/ Blue LED Light - Acrylic
> Bitspower black matte fittings 16/10mm (3/8 5/8")
> Masterkleer 16/10mm (3/8 5/8") UV blue
> Deionized water plus Mayhem's biocide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So... my questions are:
> 1. What is this stuff?
> 2. What is causing that?
> 3. Any way of getting rid of it?
> 4. Should I be worried for future use?
> 
> 
> 
> EK and nickel failure isn't surprising. Try some nickel cleaning compound. If you see what looks like "rust" stains/spots, that's the exposed copper. You can hit up EK support for assistance/rma if you're the original purchaser.
> 
> Btw, it shouldn't affect your loop at all. I had terrible failure on several blocks and I never had temp degradation or component failure damage due to the "flaking".
Click to expand...

This^^
I wasnt going to be the one that said it....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Could be the metals in your loop corroding. If any of your nickel blocks have poor plating, and the nickel starts to flake, it coulda corroded the rest of your copper & nickel.
> 
> I'd wait til some1 with better experience is around before u worry. I'm just throwin that out there cuz it's late in alot of places....


What happens is the copper is corroded under the plating,this leaves nothing for the nickel to grip to...hence the flaking rather than pitting.
Silver corrodes copper like a boss,the aviation has a term for it that sums it up perfectly...'Red Plague'

You can see the effect radius as discolouration of the nickel.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i know it hasn't really happened lately. That's why i almost didn't even type that, so i wouldn't look stupid when some1 smarter was around to answer
Just threw that out there cuz i didn't know if every1 else was sleeping








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This^^
> I wasnt going to be the one that said it....
> 
> 
> *What happens is the copper is corroded under the plating,this leaves nothing for the nickel to grip to...*hence the flaking rather than pitting.
> Silver corrodes copper like a boss,the aviation has a term for it that sums it up perfectly...'Red Plague'
> 
> You can see the effect radius as discolouration of the nickel.


I guess i understood it backwards. I thought it was the nickel corroding first, exposing the copper. I'm still fairly new to WC'ing tho


----------



## wermad

My isp is killing me







. Can't wait to get this Docsis 3.0 modem in (







).

Looks like an EN block but best way to know is to look at the top







. Circles and/or frost, CSQ. Clear plexi or old ek logo acetal, "Classic".


----------



## kpoeticg

EN = Electroplated Nickel right?

CSQ isn't EN?


----------



## wermad

EN is for electroless nickel plating. It was to attempt to remedy the original electrode plating. It wasnt the solution. I'm sure they went with something different with csq and hence the complete makeover vs the old and mal stigma of the previous blocks. Still, they and I don't condone using silver. I'm running naked







.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EN is for electroless nickel plating. It was to attempt to remedy the original electrode plating. It wasnt the solution. I'm sure they went with something different with csq and hence the complete makeover vs the old and mal stigma of the previous blocks. Still, they and I don't condone using silver. I'm running naked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ahhhhh, never realized the difference between electroless and electrode plating. Probly never read slow enough to notice the wording. Thanx









Also.... ^^


Couldn't resist


----------



## wermad

^^^


----------



## Gleniu

Thank you for quick answers







(reps awarded)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You know what that is.....dont make me say it....
> 
> RMA it,it will only get worse.....


Well, I really could not believe that... after reading so many posts (at the time I was selecting the block) that this issue is an old story (from a few years back) and now it is all good









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EK and nickel failure isn't surprising. Try some nickel cleaning compound. If you see what looks like "rust" stains/spots, that's the exposed copper. You can hit up EK support for assistance/rma if you're the original purchaser.
> Btw, it shouldn't affect your loop at all. I had terrible failure on several blocks and I never had temp degradation or component failure damage due to the "flaking".


I don't want this kind of stuff in my loop, the rest is nice and clean, I will try to RMA (I will update you on the progress).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EN were known to give as well:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info
> 
> Things settled down w/ CSQ. Interesting enough, a lot of us suspected the "frosted" csq look was to mask obvious signs of plating failure. I have yet to see a CSQ or newer nickel block fail. As a precaution, I recommend anyone using EK nickel plated blocks, use what they prescribe and use silver at your own (and warranty voiding) risk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Hmm... CSQ - are those all blocks with those ugly circles







, or it is something else? This is the one I have, purchased on 30.04.2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This^^
> I wasnt going to be the one that said it....
> What happens is the copper is corroded under the plating,this leaves nothing for the nickel to grip to...hence the flaking rather than pitting.
> Silver corrodes copper like a boss,the aviation has a term for it that sums it up perfectly...'Red Plague'
> You can see the effect radius as discolouration of the nickel.


I used to have silver coils in my loop, but before installing VGA block, and before that everything was cleaned and flushed.


----------



## wermad

Interesting. ... first csq I've seen to give







. Did you use some additives?


----------



## Gleniu

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You know what that is.....dont make me say it....
> 
> RMA it,it will only get worse.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EK and nickel failure isn't surprising. Try some nickel cleaning compound. If you see what looks like "rust" stains/spots, that's the exposed copper. You can hit up EK support for assistance/rma if you're the original purchaser.
> 
> Btw, it shouldn't affect your loop at all. I had terrible failure on several blocks and I never had temp degradation or component failure damage due to the "flaking".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> EN were known to give as well:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info
> 
> Things settled down w/ CSQ. Interesting enough, a lot of us suspected the "frosted" csq look was to mask obvious signs of plating failure. I have yet to see a CSQ or newer nickel block fail. As a precaution, I recommend anyone using EK nickel plated blocks, use what they prescribe and use silver at your own (and warranty voiding) risk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This^^
> I wasnt going to be the one that said it....
> What happens is the copper is corroded under the plating,this leaves nothing for the nickel to grip to...hence the flaking rather than pitting.
> Silver corrodes copper like a boss,the aviation has a term for it that sums it up perfectly...'Red Plague'
> 
> You can see the effect radius as discolouration of the nickel.





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Interesting. ... first csq I've seen to give
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Did you use some additives?


Just a few drops of Mayhems biocide, nothing else.
Previously I had in my loop 2 silver kill coils and some anti corro fluid (the one from Specialtech). But before installing the VGA block I cleaned and flushed everything really well (new tubing as well).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Just a few drops of Mayhems biocide, nothing else.
> Previously I had in my loop 2 silver kill coils and some anti corro fluid (the one from Specialtech). But before installing the VGA block I cleaned and flushed everything really well (new tubing as well).


Hit up Derick or better yet, contact EK support. How long have you ran the gpu block?


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

ft02 watercool checking in.

2x 120 rad and 540 rad at bottom.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hit up Derick or better yet, contact EK support. How long have you ran the gpu block?


It was under water for 7 months. I've already contacted EK support; those guys are fast - already got reply








I will let you know how it all ended.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hit up Derick or better yet, contact EK support. How long have you ran the gpu block?
> 
> 
> 
> It was under water for 7 months. I've already contacted EK support; those guys are fast - already got reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will let you know how it all ended.
Click to expand...

Good news. EK really have turned around their CS and are normally very quick/helpful.


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good news. EK really have turned around their CS and are normally very quick/helpful.


Yes, they are, indeed. My RMA has been approved - I will be sending the block to Slovenia








I got answers and RMA number within MINUTES, not hours, and this was happening on Friday afternoon...








EKWB Support


----------



## VSG

How much will it cost to ship back to Slovenia? Or is shipping covered under RMA?


----------



## Deepsouth1987

*Almost done!*

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0075_zps2f3ab380.jpg.html

*Very tight fit with the radiators*

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0078_zps6b0cdf58.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0076_zps7c340e9d.jpg.html


----------



## morencyam

Looking good. Extremely tight. That's how it was with the top rad in my old 700d. Had to bend the CPU power connector in a funky position. You're color scheme makes me think of Christmas


----------



## PC Upgrade

These are the specs and some first photos of my new project Ocean Rig

Case: Corsair obsidian 750D
Psu: Corsair HX 750
Mobo: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
CPU: Intel i7 2600K
Ram: Kingston Hyper X @1600 8Gb
Gpu: Asus Gtx 580oc
SSD: Kingston Hyper X 3k 120Gb
Hdd: Seagate 2tb
WD x5: 500gb

Watercooling parts:
Cpu block: EKWB EK-Supreme LTX Acetal CSQ CPU Block
2 X Rads: EKWB EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240 Watercooling Radiator - EKWB EK-CoolStream RAD XT 120 Watercooling Radiator
Tank - Pump: XSPC X2O 750 50 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Watercooling Pump V4
Tube: Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT
Connectors: Alphacool - EK
Fans: 5x Corsair SP 120 performance
Lights: 2x Lamptron FlexLight Pro 30 LED Ice blue
Cables: Nanoxia sleeved


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How much will it cost to ship back to Slovenia? Or is shipping covered under RMA?


It won't cost much, I'm based in Europe. And RMA should cover economy shipping option.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have had several nominations in the Most helpful person on OCN thread,thanks to those that nominated and voted for me,im humbled.

Now,get back to work slackers!


----------



## iBored

My new fittings arrived today








Came straight from Taiwan with free case badges and coasters.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The final PCB will be black. The price hasn't been set yet but I can say it will be _very _competitive


Not sure why I'm asking you here - but does the screen mount to the other side or does it attach via a ribbon cable?

If it's on the other side then those g1/4 ports are going to be annoying to use and should have been on the top of the copper block. On the other hand if it's on a ribbon cable and the board is mounted horizontally as I expect then a lot of those connectors will be hard to plug in and out of for those of us with manly bear hands?

Unless the screen version is a new PCB lulz.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Interesting. ... first csq I've seen to give
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Did you use some additives?


I believe the EN plating changed again to fix the issues and it just happened to be around the same time CSQ came out. I'm not in the loop on the exact timing. My EN pre-csq blocks required RMA even running naked without silver, but my CSQ supremacies have been fine even with silver.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This^^
> I wasnt going to be the one that said it....
> What happens is the copper is corroded under the plating,this leaves nothing for the nickel to grip to...hence the flaking rather than pitting.
> Silver corrodes copper like a boss,the aviation has a term for it that sums it up perfectly...'Red Plague'
> 
> You can see the effect radius as discolouration of the nickel.


Silver kill coils shouldn't matter because they are not in good electrical contact with the copper/nickle (I assume they are not touching). Plus silver is half as bad a potential difference as the chrome which Swiftech use on their GPU blocks I believe. The issue was not with nickel or silver, but with the plating itself being poor. It seems like things have gotten better though. You said the blocks were in use only 10 months - but did you buy them a good time before that or were they bought and went right in? I have yet to see issues on my csq supremacies (I think the first one was june 2012) even when using silver.

BTW Martin did a great article on galvanic corrosion here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/ . The takeaway is that every mixed metal part will fail eventually, this means any of your fittings that aren't pure brass, and your radiators. The only way to stop this is by using an anti-corrosion additive. Or just assume that your products have a long enough life and will be replaced before this leads to failure. This is not to discount that there wasn't a problem with the EK plating during that episode because there was. However so far my experience with the new plating has been much better and I haven't yet seen a problem


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> My new fittings arrived today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came straight from Taiwan with free case badges and coasters.


Can You tell me how much did You pay for shipping and customs?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Interesting. ... first csq I've seen to give
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Did you use some additives?
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the EN plating changed again to fix the issues and it just happened to be around the same time CSQ came out. I'm not in the loop on the exact timing. My EN pre-csq blocks required RMA even running naked without silver, but my CSQ supremacies have been fine even with silver.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This^^
> I wasnt going to be the one that said it....
> What happens is the copper is corroded under the plating,this leaves nothing for the nickel to grip to...hence the flaking rather than pitting.
> Silver corrodes copper like a boss,the aviation has a term for it that sums it up perfectly...'Red Plague'
> 
> You can see the effect radius as discolouration of the nickel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Silver kill coils shouldn't matter because they are not in good electrical contact with the copper/nickle (I assume they are not touching). Plus silver is half as bad a potential difference as the chrome which Swiftech use on their GPU blocks I believe. The issue was not with nickel or silver, but with the plating itself being poor. It seems like things have gotten better though. You said the blocks were in use only 10 months - but did you buy them a good time before that or were they bought and went right in? I have yet to see issues on my csq supremacies (I think the first one was june 2012) even when using silver.
> 
> BTW Martin did a great article on galvanic corrosion here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/ . The takeaway is that every mixed metal part will fail eventually, this means any of your fittings that aren't pure brass, and your radiators. The only way to stop this is by using an anti-corrosion additive. Or just assume that your products have a long enough life and will be replaced before this leads to failure. This is not to discount that there wasn't a problem with the EK plating during that episode because there was. However so far my experience with the new plating has been much better and I haven't yet seen a problem
Click to expand...

I'm very aware of the reason for the plating fails,I have stated many many times about the corrolation of poor prep and the resulting fails...so much so that EK think I have a vendetta going on. Silver wasn't used in this instance either,it was posted later that this is the case after my post.
All the copper/nickel has to do is form the galvanic cell,the electrolytes in the fluid does the rest,silver ions in the water (if present) accelerate the process greatly.A pinhole in the plate is all that's needed....as for electrical contact,water that has had ions removed will scavenge ions from everything it contacts,thus recreating the electrical contact potential removed by the de-ionization process

Silver eats copper like a boss,there are many discussions online in the aviation industry about this problem.
There are more reactions outside of the potential tables that have a bearing on these issues,luckily i have a PHD Chem and a PHD (MIT) Physicist on hand to get more informed views on these things.

EDIT: Things get even worse when a sulfur catalyst is involved....PH Nuke could be put in that category...


----------



## JebusChytrus

Im looking for a very quiet pump, my current pump (laing ddc 18W with adjustable speed 2400-4000rpm) makes buzzing noise and it drives me crazy







Any recommendations?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JebusChytrus*
> 
> Im looking for a very quiet pump, my current pump (laing ddc 18W with adjustable speed 2400-4000rpm) makes buzzing noise and it drives me crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations?


In my opinion the D5s are a little quieter. I can't even hear my MCP655-B over my fans. It makes just a slight hum when I put my ear next to it.


----------



## JebusChytrus

Does the top or top/res combo makes difference in terms of sound?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JebusChytrus*
> 
> Im looking for a very quiet pump, my current pump (laing ddc 18W with adjustable speed 2400-4000rpm) makes buzzing noise and it drives me crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations?


Either a D5 or an MCP35X running @ 1200 rpm are my suggestions. 2400rpm is too high for a DDC.


----------



## tecuarenta

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm very aware of the reason for the plating fails,I have stated many many times about the corrolation of poor prep and the resulting fails...so much so that EK think I have a vendetta going on. Silver wasn't used in this instance either,it was posted later that this is the case after my post.
> All the copper/nickel has to do is form the galvanic cell,the electrolytes in the fluid does the rest,silver ions in the water (if present) accelerate the process greatly.A pinhole in the plate is all that's needed....as for electrical contact,water that has had ions removed will scavenge ions from everything it contacts,thus recreating the electrical contact potential removed by the de-ionization process
> 
> Silver eats copper like a boss,there are many discussions online in the aviation industry about this problem.
> There are more reactions outside of the potential tables that have a bearing on these issues,luckily i have a PHD Chem and a PHD (MIT) Physicist on hand to get more informed views on these things.





Quote:


> EDIT: Things get even worse when a sulfur catalyst is involved....PH Nuke could be put in that category...


I assume that PT Nuke PHN is also in that category...


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Either a D5 or an MCP35X running @ 1200 rpm are my suggestions. 2400rpm is too high for a DDC.


D5 vario speed at setting 1 is 1850rpm I thought? A properly isolated D5 with a good top is barely audible. I measured <32dBA at 18" with the xspc d5 top at setting 4 (~3600rpm). At that noise level I have to move my test equipment to a cupboard under the stairs, shut the door and run the power supply outside the room because the fan is too noisy, then hold my breath to take the measurement. An unisolated D5 at max can easily hit 48-50dBA on the other hand.

edit - I guess you meant the mcp35x @1200 not the d5 @1200rpm lol

I would agree though the mcp35x at anything close to max is too loud to be "quiet".


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm very aware of the reason for the plating fails,I have stated many many times about the corrolation of poor prep and the resulting fails...so much so that EK think I have a vendetta going on. Silver wasn't used in this instance either,it was posted later that this is the case after my post.
> All the copper/nickel has to do is form the galvanic cell,the electrolytes in the fluid does the rest,silver ions in the water (if present) accelerate the process greatly.A pinhole in the plate is all that's needed....as for electrical contact,water that has had ions removed will scavenge ions from everything it contacts,thus recreating the electrical contact potential removed by the de-ionization process
> 
> Silver eats copper like a boss,there are many discussions online in the aviation industry about this problem.
> There are more reactions outside of the potential tables that have a bearing on these issues,luckily i have a PHD Chem and a PHD (MIT) Physicist on hand to get more informed views on these things.
> 
> EDIT: Things get even worse when a sulfur catalyst is involved....PH Nuke could be put in that category...


So perhaps you can explain why the silver ions make it worse. Are they depositing on the nickel?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> It was under water for 7 months. I've already contacted EK support; those guys are fast - already got reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will let you know how it all ended.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Yes, they are, indeed. My RMA has been approved - I will be sending the block to Slovenia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got answers and RMA number within MINUTES, not hours, and this was happening on Friday afternoon...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EKWB Support
Click to expand...

Awesome souce









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> I believe the EN plating changed again to fix the issues and it just happened to be around the same time CSQ came out. I'm not in the loop on the exact timing. My EN pre-csq blocks required RMA even running naked without silver, but my CSQ supremacies have been fine even with silver.
> Silver kill coils shouldn't matter because they are not in good electrical contact with the copper/nickle (I assume they are not touching). Plus silver is half as bad a potential difference as the chrome which Swiftech use on their GPU blocks I believe. The issue was not with nickel or silver, but with the plating itself being poor. It seems like things have gotten better though. You said the blocks were in use only 10 months - but did you buy them a good time before that or were they bought and went right in? I have yet to see issues on my csq supremacies (I think the first one was june 2012) even when using silver.
> 
> BTW Martin did a great article on galvanic corrosion here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/ . The takeaway is that every mixed metal part will fail eventually, this means any of your fittings that aren't pure brass, and your radiators. The only way to stop this is by using an anti-corrosion additive. Or just assume that your products have a long enough life and will be replaced before this leads to failure. This is not to discount that there wasn't a problem with the EK plating during that episode because there was. However so far my experience with the new plating has been much better and I haven't yet seen a problem


Thanks Stren







. So some CSQ blocks were done w/ the previous EN plating process? The prepping was the main suspect I deduced in this whole ordeal (especially after fallowing RR forum/testing). The 7xxx and 6xx series did go through the "Classic" and "CSQ" transition so its definitely plausible Gleniu got a poorly prepped one or an earlier version that didn't have the new plating process. In the end, they're taking care of it so that's what matters







.


----------



## Ragsters

I should be running my loop late next week and after all this nickel plating talk its got me thinking. My plan is to run distilled water with a drop or two of biocide extreme. Will that be enough?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm very aware of the reason for the plating fails,I have stated many many times about the corrolation of poor prep and the resulting fails...so much so that EK think I have a vendetta going on. Silver wasn't used in this instance either,it was posted later that this is the case after my post.
> All the copper/nickel has to do is form the galvanic cell,the electrolytes in the fluid does the rest,silver ions in the water (if present) accelerate the process greatly.A pinhole in the plate is all that's needed....as for electrical contact,water that has had ions removed will scavenge ions from everything it contacts,thus recreating the electrical contact potential removed by the de-ionization process
> 
> Silver eats copper like a boss,there are many discussions online in the aviation industry about this problem.
> There are more reactions outside of the potential tables that have a bearing on these issues,luckily i have a PHD Chem and a PHD (MIT) Physicist on hand to get more informed views on these things.
> 
> EDIT: Things get even worse when a sulfur catalyst is involved....PH Nuke could be put in that category...
> 
> 
> 
> So perhaps you can explain why the silver ions make it worse. Are they depositing on the nickel?
Click to expand...

No,they are drawing the copper,not the nickel.

Pore corrosion is followed by corrosion product creep under the nickel layer,migration distances can be 8mm a month in the right conditions. Its a big issue with PCBs in hostile environments.
Normally you find a red rustlike material on the silver coil.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm very aware of the reason for the plating fails,I have stated many many times about the corrolation of poor prep and the resulting fails...so much so that EK think I have a vendetta going on. Silver wasn't used in this instance either,it was posted later that this is the case after my post.
> All the copper/nickel has to do is form the galvanic cell,the electrolytes in the fluid does the rest,silver ions in the water (if present) accelerate the process greatly.A pinhole in the plate is all that's needed....as for electrical contact,water that has had ions removed will scavenge ions from everything it contacts,thus recreating the electrical contact potential removed by the de-ionization process
> 
> Silver eats copper like a boss,there are many discussions online in the aviation industry about this problem.
> There are more reactions outside of the potential tables that have a bearing on these issues,luckily i have a PHD Chem and a PHD (MIT) Physicist on hand to get more informed views on these things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Things get even worse when a sulfur catalyst is involved....PH Nuke could be put in that category...
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I assume that PT Nuke PHN is also in that category...

No,PHN is a chloride,not a sulphate.
Chlorides are a Stainless steel rusting agent,copper and nickel are safe


----------



## morencyam

So running bare copper blocks with a silver kill coil is a bad idea?

Would PT Nuke PHN be a better option?


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,they are drawing the copper,not the nickel.
> 
> Pore corrosion is followed by corrosion product creep under the nickel layer,migration distances can be 8mm a month in the right conditions. Its a big issue with PCBs in hostile environments.
> Normally you find a red rustlike material on the silver coil.


Yeah the copper gets eroded, but ions have to deposit onto the nickel somewhere too to balance the charge no? Unless you're saying the current flow is between the copper and the silver through the electrolyte and that the red coating are the ions from the electrolyte that are deposited and balancing things out?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,they are drawing the copper,not the nickel.
> 
> Pore corrosion is followed by corrosion product creep under the nickel layer,migration distances can be 8mm a month in the right conditions. Its a big issue with PCBs in hostile environments.
> Normally you find a red rustlike material on the silver coil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah the copper gets eroded, but ions have to deposit onto the nickel somewhere too to balance the charge no? Unless you're saying the current flow is between the copper and the silver through the electrolyte and that the red coating are the ions from the electrolyte that are deposited and balancing things out?
Click to expand...

This is my understanding of it.

Im no chemist myself tho.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> So running bare copper blocks with a silver kill coil is a bad idea?
> 
> Would PT Nuke PHN be a better option?


Wait really. So I am doomed to fail with EK Titan blocks and a silver kill coil?


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is my understanding of it.
> 
> Im no chemist myself tho.


yeah the thing i have a hard time understanding with that though is that the resistance through the electrolyte to the silver (which presumably is in the reservoir fairly far away) is presumably pretty huge and so any charge flow would be much less than the much lower local resistance to the nickel (despite the nickel's lower electropotential difference)? Also if this is the case, silver should always get ionic deposits on it that would make it useless when used with any copper block?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is my understanding of it.
> 
> Im no chemist myself tho.
> 
> 
> 
> yeah the thing i have a hard time understanding with that though is that the resistance through the electrolyte to the silver (which presumably is in the reservoir fairly far away) is presumably pretty huge and so any charge flow would be much less than the much lower local resistance to the nickel (despite the nickel's lower electropotential difference)? Also if this is the case, silver should always get ionic deposits on it that would make it useless when used with any copper block?
Click to expand...

This is the thing,I have used silver in copper blocks before as well with no staining or tarnishing,Im sure the damage is the galvanic cell formed by the nickel and copper..the silver acts as an accelerator/catalyst. I need to speak to Jake again to get a fuller scientific explanation,this was discussed over beer with him.


----------



## derickwm

Hey guys,

To be clear our warranty covers corrosion you may find in our blocks, if you are the original purchaser. Silver causes the occasional hiccup but on a large scale the incidents are few and far between. We produce thousands of blocks and we do our best but the occasional accident does happen sometimes, this is why we offer a warranty, have an awesome RMA ticket system, and have support standing by at all times.

We pour a lot of time into offering support and warranty try to handle things in the best way possible. Copper and silver should be fine in a loop, as that's been used for years and years. If you are at all worried about this, just remember that we have you covered in the odd case that anything does happen. As always we do recommend our Ekoolant products as then you don't have to use silver but we understand that not all users want to use them.

Gleniu I'm glad to see that you are satisfied with the RMA process and have posted your positive thoughts, as most people like to share the negative experiences compared to the positive ones 

As always, anybody feel free to PM me with any questions you may have and I will get back to in a timely manner. As I'm not in Slovenia and our support reps are, we are almost available around the clock to answer your questions during the week - and I am on here almost every weekend.

Best,

Derick


----------



## wermad

I run naked


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> To be clear our warranty covers corrosion you may find in our blocks, if you are the original purchaser. Silver causes the occasional hiccup but on a large scale the incidents are few and far between. We produce thousands of blocks and we do our best but the occasional accident does happen sometimes, this is why we offer a warranty, have an awesome RMA ticket system, and have support standing by at all times.
> 
> We pour a lot of time into offering support and warranty try to handle things in the best way possible. Copper and silver should be fine in a loop, as that's been used for years and years. If you are at all worried about this, just remember that we have you covered in the odd case that anything does happen. As always we do recommend our Ekoolant products as then you don't have to use silver but we understand that not all users want to use them.
> 
> Gleniu I'm glad to see that you are satisfied with the RMA process and have posted your positive thoughts, as most people like to share the negative experiences compared to the positive ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, anybody feel free to PM me with any questions you may have and I will get back to in a timely manner. As I'm not in Slovenia and our support reps are, we are almost available around the clock to answer your questions during the week - and I am on here almost every weekend.
> 
> Best,
> Derick


Nice PR blurb,we know this already tho.









EK have come on leaps and bounds over the last 6 months,_irrational_ hate you can never dissuade tho Derick. Even tho i go for the less obvious choices,no one has the sheer range of blocks that EK produce,Niko must be working like a dog.









Not my dog of course,he has minions for that kind of thing.

EDIT: In other news,I have discovered the cup of tea i dumped into my QPAD MK85 last night has not destroyed it. This pleases me greatly.


----------



## derickwm

Not everyone knows and it never hurts to let people know we have their backs if something was to happen









There will always be those trolls who will never change their beliefs, but hey it keeps me employed so let 'em come at me with their irrational hate. And I've been employed by EK for nearly 7 months now so I'll take that directly as a compliment









When Niko gets in the zone the whole office shuts up and leaves him be









And I go put the kettle on to bring him coffee...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Not _everyone_ knows and it never hurts to let people know we have their backs if something was to happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will always be those trolls who will never change their beliefs, but hey it keeps me employed so let 'em come at me with their irrational hate. And I've been employed by EK for nearly 7 months now so I'll take that directly as a compliment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When Niko gets in the zone the whole office shuts up and leaves him be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I go put the kettle on to bring him coffee...


Your CS is weak sauce compared to mine

Sometimes you just have to say it......


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Can You tell me how much did You pay for shipping and customs?


Shipping was NT$ 660. Reached me in less than a week.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Your CS is weak sauce compared to mine
> 
> Sometimes you just have to say it......


Never seen that "bullhorn" plate before


----------



## Ragsters

Can you guys help me find some radiator screws to replace the ones that came with my XSPC 360? The long ones are fine but the short ones don' work with my fans. Please don't say at any hardware store. I'm looking for black 30mm or 6mm 6-32 UNC screws.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me find some radiator screws to replace the ones that came with my XSPC 360? The long ones are fine but the short ones don' work with my fans. Please don't say at any hardware store. I'm looking for black 30mm or 6mm 6-32 UNC screws.


Here you go: http://www.drillspot.com/hardware/hardware-accessories/screws/

All the screws you could imagine!!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me find some radiator screws to replace the ones that came with my XSPC 360? The long ones are fine but the short ones don' work with my fans. Please don't say at any hardware store. I'm looking for black 30mm or 6mm 6-32 UNC screws.


Have you checked here http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c477/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Radiator_Screws.html?


----------



## wermad

Ugh, why can't xspc stick to either metric or imperial







.

Also, mcmastercarr.com has a good assortment of hardware.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ugh, why can't xspc stick to either metric or imperial
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Also, mcmastercarr.com has a good assortment of hardware.


Exactly! I hate that they are mixing the two.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you checked here http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c477/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Radiator_Screws.html?


I have but $2 for 4 screws is a total rip off. Not to mention shipping charges.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Exactly! I hate that they are mixing the two.


A while ago for a build back then, I ended up buying 1-1/4" long 6-32 screws and they were a tad bit long. I didn't realized xspc used 6-32 x 30mm screws.Well, I ended up puncturing brand new RX480. Since then, I'd been a bit shy of XSPC if I need custom screws. Now that I know how to tap screws, I just stick w/ M4







.


----------



## Ragsters

So I just noticed that my Caselabs Case came with a bunch of 6mm 6-32 screws that I can use. My next question is if it is even worth it to run push-pull on my AX 360 or just run push?


----------



## WebsterXC

Sneak peak of a build log to come


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Sneak peak of a build log to come
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Folding rig?! What chips are those?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Sneak peak of a build log to come


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A while ago for a build back then, I ended up buying 1-1/4" long 6-32 screws and they were a tad bit long. I didn't realized xspc used 6-32 x 30mm screws.Well, I ended up puncturing brand new RX480. Since then, I'd been a bit shy of XSPC if I need custom screws. Now that I know how to tap screws, I just stick w/ M4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I spent an hour the other night cutting custom length screws byn hand the other night. Had to cut enough for push-pull on two radiators. Needless to say, my forearm was a little sore after that.


----------



## rickyman0319

what kind of angles do u use for ratidator to cpu waterblock? do u use 45 or 90 degrees ? single, double or triple rotary?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what kind of angles do u use for ratidator to cpu waterblock? do u use 45 or 90 degrees ? single, double or triple rotary?


That entirely depends on your set-up.


----------



## wermad

@WebsterXC







x100
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I spent an hour the other night cutting custom length screws byn hand the other night. Had to cut enough for push-pull on two radiators. Needless to say, my forearm was a little sore after that.


Might as well tap them to M4. My cheap tap did last me doing three 480s and one 240. Almost worn out but I found the single taps cheap on ebay.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what kind of angles do u use for ratidator to cpu waterblock? do u use 45 or 90 degrees ? single, double or triple rotary?


If you're using thin walled tube, angled fittings come in handy. IF you're using thick walled tube, you maybe able to get a nice bend to join them without adapters.


----------



## szeged

custom tapping screws into larger rads like monstas should be standard imo







m3 screws on a 480 monsta is like...alphacool...wut you doin?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> custom tapping screws into larger rads like monstas should be standard imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> m3 screws on a 480 monsta is like...alphacool...wut you doin?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Sneak peak of a build log to come


what server / workstation motherboard is that??? it has an original pci slot!! LOL you really want to watercool a server running 24/7 for 365?


----------



## M3TAl

The board seems to be an Arima with PCB revision 41-cmg020-d00g. That's all I could gather from the picture.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @WebsterXC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> x100
> Might as well tap them to M4. My cheap tap did last me doing three 480s and one 240. Almost worn out but I found the single taps cheap on ebay.


I already tapped them to 8-32 during the 700d build. I was in a bind and needed screws quick and 8-32 was all I had on hand.


----------



## royston97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phiz66*
> 
> Just got everything into my Switch 810. Here's my addiction.


Hello guys I want to find a tubing that would give me this affect, and also cathode, I'm new to water cooling I have no idea which brand to pick, so any recommendations?

I also wonder if there are any transparent uv tubings and uv fans, I would love those too!

Thx folks!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what kind of angles do u use for ratidator to cpu waterblock? do u use 45 or 90 degrees ? single, double or triple rotary?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> That entirely depends on your set-up.


Exactly. You use whatever looks cleanest and fits best in your case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royston97*
> 
> Hello guys I want to find a tubing that would give me this affect, and also cathode, I'm new to water cooling I have no idea which brand to pick, so any recommendations?
> 
> I also wonder if there are any transparent uv tubings and uv fans, I would love those too!
> 
> Thx folks!


That is uv blue tube and you will need the uv cathodes. If you want clear tube, then you will want a uv reactive fluid. Yes there are uv reactive fans as well.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Due to lack of free time I've stopped following this thread as I used to..









Did wermad really build his crazy new watercooling loop? Five 480s was it? If yes could someone point me to any pics of it?


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daredevil 720*
> 
> Due to lack of free time I've stopped following this thread as I used to..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did wermad really build his crazy new watercooling loop? Five 480s was it? If yes could someone point me to any pics of it?


Here's a link to pictures of it in wermad's buildlog.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1444513/build-log-mont-blanc-caselabs-th10-white-quad-7970-lightnings-5x1-eyefinity/70#post_21295945


----------



## Anoxy

Finally part of the club. I'd post a pic with the LEDs on, but my crappy point and shoot potato camera doesn't do it justice. With the side panel on that LED strip on the RX360 is hidden though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> Here's a link to pictures of it in wermad's buildlog.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1444513/build-log-mont-blanc-caselabs-th10-white-quad-7970-lightnings-5x1-eyefinity/70#post_21295945


Yep, can confirm. He r mad.


----------



## kpoeticg

Great job!!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally part of the club. I'd post a pic with the LEDs on, but my crappy point and shoot potato camera doesn't do it justice. With the side panel on that LED strip on the RX360 is hidden though


Nice man! About time too


----------



## IT Diva

Looking sweet!

Looks very clean and compact, but doesn't look cluttered for so much in so little space
















Great job,

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally part of the club. I'd post a pic with the LEDs on, but my crappy point and shoot potato camera doesn't do it justice. With the side panel on that LED strip on the RX360 is hidden though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> Here's a link to pictures of it in wermad's buildlog.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1444513/build-log-mont-blanc-caselabs-th10-white-quad-7970-lightnings-5x1-eyefinity/70#post_21295945
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, can confirm. He r mad.
Click to expand...

Looks good,ditch the Noctua and get a bridge cover and its nigh on perfect.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks good,ditch the Noctua and get a bridge cover and its nigh on perfect.


Exactly what I was going to say.
The noctua fan just feels out of place in there. Bridge covers for mad style pts.

Otherwise it is great build.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Separating the fan blades from the shroud/motor, and then painting both would save you some cash if you're strapped for it Anoxy


----------



## waveaddict

Looking to get a set up going and trying to decide on pump/res combo's.Really like the EK-DCP 4.0 X-RES.Will only be cooling a CPU,which I know is probably overkill
but like the fact that it's upgradable & interchangeable for future.



Anyone have this set up or any experience with it?
Will also be using it with a EK-CoolStream PE 240 rad. and a EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ cpu block.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> Folding rig?! What chips are those?


Opteron 8358's.

Quad Core 2.4Ghz. Should give some decent performance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> what server / workstation motherboard is that??? it has an original pci slot!! LOL you really want to watercool a server running 24/7 for 365?


Why not? Just because it's old doesn't mean I can't watercool it. It'll also give me a chance to play around with Linux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The board seems to be an Arima with PCB revision 41-cmg020-d00g. That's all I could gather from the picture.


Correct. It's a Socket F board. One of my 7950's will be going in the PCI-e slot, with a sound card in the PCI legacy.


----------



## rickyman0319

is there such thing as 90 degrees Blood red compression fitting from Bitpower? when I search for it, it only got black and chrome and not blood red one. I am looking for blood red compression fitting.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Looking to get a set up going and trying to decide on pump/res combo's.Really like the EK-DCP 4.0 X-RES.Will only be cooling a CPU,which I know is probably overkill
> but like the fact that it's upgradable & interchangeable for future.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have this set up or any experience with it?
> Will also be using it with a EK-CoolStream PE 240 rad. and a EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ cpu block.


its not exactly overkill but it will work fine. i have the original res add-on and pump through 2 swiftech uni gpu blocks, a raystorm, an xt45 240 and 360. it works well.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is there such thing as 90 degrees Blood red compression fitting from Bitpower? when I search for it, it only got black and chrome and not blood red one. I am looking for blood red compression fitting.


HERE's page 3 of the Blood Red series on the BP site. Page 3 & 4 have most of the 90's


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks good,ditch the Noctua and get a bridge cover and its nigh on perfect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Exactly what I was going to say.
> The noctua fan just feels out of place in there. Bridge covers for mad style pts.
> 
> Otherwise it is great build.


The only thing I would do is paint the body of the Noctua fan black. The SLI bridge and brown of the noctua fan blades actually fits in with the hints of copper throughout (GPU blocks, Alphacool logos)

But if I can't paint the noctua I might just look at getting an all black 140mm fan to replace it, and also paint the bridge black.


----------



## kpoeticg

You should be able to paint the Noctua housing pretty easily. If you just peel the rear sticker back a little bit and put something metal against the little magnet in the middle to remove it, the blades pop off pretty easily.


----------



## Anoxy

Sweet, I'll give that a shot this weekend. Thanks.


----------



## kpoeticg

NP, just make sure u don't forget the magnet. The blades might feel like your gonna break em before they come off, but as long as you took out the magnet the blades'll pull out just fine.


----------



## s0up2up

Hi guys quick question;

But does anyone know of any good 140mm fans? Aiming for silence and don't particularly want a fan controller so would prefer them as PWM if possible.

Will be used for Rad fans on Alphacool ST30's.


----------



## kpoeticg

Akasa Vipers are good 140mm rad fans with PWM. Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex & B Gears B-Blasters are supposed to be good too. The B-Blasters are kinda loud. I'm not sure if the Vortex's have PWM. If they do, they're supposed to be real good too.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> NP, just make sure u don't forget the magnet. The blades might feel like your gonna break em before they come off, but as long as you took out the magnet the blades'll pull out just fine.


Haha funny you mention breaking the blades.... I tried to do that to one of my Fractal fans a couple weeks ago and snapped one of the blades clean off....this was before I knew about the magnet...oops!


----------



## kpoeticg

At least u know i'm not lying









Different fans have different stuff under the sticker. Noctua's and ELoops have just the magnet, then the blades pop off. Other fans like GT's have a little C-Clip that you gotta pop out. Other fans, like Akasa Vipers for instance have a little white metal washer/clip. It looks like a washer, but it has a small split that u usually can't see. U gotta bend it up a little at the split, then push it back when u put it back together.


----------



## s0up2up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Akasa Vipers are good 140mm rad fans with PWM. Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex & B Gears B-Blasters are supposed to be good too. The B-Blasters are kinda loud. I'm not sure if the Vortex's have PWM. If they do, they're supposed to be real good too.


Hmm that's an interesting thought because I could just get the 900 RPM version and she should be mint.

You mention Akasa vipers, what about their Apache range?


----------



## szeged

ap-15's arrived for my new build

managed to actually get a good picture since my lightbox has cat hair all in it -_-

was holding a studio lamp in one hand, balancing off a table with my right elbow and holding the camera in my right hand, the results -


----------



## Aftermath2006

So what exactly is going on here nickel flaking or corrosion or what


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what exactly is going on here nickel flaking or corrosion or what


Exposed copper. Who makes your block? Might wanna submit a ticket with them.. Btw, there's no thermal impact but it sucks your nickel is degrading.

edit: looks like those are aquacomputer blocks.








Going back to the same thing again w/ this. Makes me wanna pop open my Ltg blocks just to check.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Exposed copper. Who makes your block? Might wanna submit a ticket with them.. Btw, there's no thermal impact but it sucks your nickel is degrading.
> 
> edit: looks like those are aquacomputer blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going back to the same thing again w/ this. Makes me wanna pop open my Ltg blocks just to check.


thats not an EK block


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thats not an EK block


read post again
















edit: since my loop is down pending a new platform, might as well open one of the Lightning blocks to check. All these nickel failure with newer blocks has me thinking


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> read post again


yeah i saw it lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah i saw it lol


I've seen a case of AC a while ago. Think it was some 580 blocks. By the shiny look, seems like its electroplating. When I called a shop a while ago, they recommended electroless nickel plating for water applications. Ek did say the EN electroless plating does have a less shiny look compared to electrodeplating.


----------



## szeged

i like the less shiny look better anyways


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Hmm that's an interesting thought because I could just get the 900 RPM version and she should be mint.
> 
> You mention Akasa vipers, what about their Apache range?


The Apache's have the same exact blades as the Vipers. Not postitive whether or not they have PWM.

Edit: Just checked, they have PWM.


----------



## Aftermath2006

how hard is aquacomputer rma

also i dont even know if i feel comfortable using there blocks again


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> how hard is aquacomputer rma
> 
> also i dont even know if i feel comfortable using there blocks again


I used my six "defective" blocks for several months with no issues. Just send them a message to get an rma going.

http://www.aqua-computer.de/e_support-index.htm


----------



## wermad

double post









Are all the "universal" ram plates compatible w/ any block? They seem to line up very close. Wanted to pick up a set but not sure if you can mix the plates with other blocks?

Edit: nevermind. If all these blocks are designed for dominator ram, they all should line up and thus the plates should be the same


----------



## cky2k6

Testing out my new psu cables, going to find a better way to route them afterwards.


----------



## szeged

Anyone know where i can find a http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_59&products_id=3135

really need to get one but i cant find any =\


----------



## kpoeticg

I think PPC & FCPU both sell them. I'm not sure if i've seen em sold just the cover. But they sell the res upgrade kits. The New Products page of FCPU has the 80mm res version for the first 3 or 4 items on the page. That's probly the cheapest one to get if you already have the res for it

That's what comes in the kit
http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p1/201312/NewProducts-Page1.html


----------



## szeged

Im trying to find just that piece alone, i already have a BP reservoir and pumptop and pretty everything listed there, but i dont have that =\

cant find any on ppc or fcpu


----------



## wermad

I think Juthos is affiliated to BP. Send him a pm if he has any info/help to offer:

http://www.overclock.net/u/314670/juthos


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think Juthos is *affiliated* to BP. Send him a pm if he has any info/help to offer:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/u/314670/juthos


No no i'm just a big spender so they keep me updated on new items/releases









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Im trying to find just that piece alone, i already have a BP reservoir and pumptop and pretty everything listed there, but i dont have that =\
> 
> cant find any on ppc or fcpu


Sadly it's available only @ their site, Ragster had the same problem a month ago.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what exactly is going on here nickel flaking or corrosion or what


AC block corroding?
Now thats something new...and unwelcome.









RMA it aftermath and keep us posted on how they deal with it,lets see if they are deserving of any future recommendations.

Can you list your fluid and additives here also?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Really the only rigid tubing that appeals to me is copper. If I had any idea how to do that I would.


Check my sig for copper bending.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Sadly it's available only @ their site, Ragster had the same problem a month ago.


arggh, all out of stock too







well that sucks lol.

anyone have any other ideas on how i can get the pump to the bottom of the res? new monsta rads are gonna make it super hard for me to fit the pump in the bottom of the case.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Im trying to find just that piece alone, i already have a BP reservoir and pumptop and pretty everything listed there, but i dont have that =\
> 
> cant find any on ppc or fcpu


Just get a male-to-male adapter and call it a day


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just get a male-to-male adapter and call it a day


thought about it but it feels like it wouldnt have enough oomph to hold up the pump, plus it might look weird







ill give it a shot though lol. better than having a smooshed pump because of the monsta.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thought about it but it feels like it wouldnt have enough oomph to hold up the pump, plus it might look weird
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill give it a shot though lol. better than having a smooshed pump because of the monsta.


I'm using a male to male extender plus a male to female on my res and pump so far it holds up fine no probs yet....


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> arggh, all out of stock too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well that sucks lol.
> 
> anyone have any other ideas on how i can get the pump to the bottom of the res? new monsta rads are gonna make it super hard for me to fit the pump in the bottom of the case.


The "out of stock" (or similar) means nothing they don't update the site regularly.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> The "out of stock" (or similar) means nothing they don't update the site regularly.


ah, well ill have to try to contact them then and see if they have any in stock.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what exactly is going on here nickel flaking or corrosion or what


Those are AC Titan blocks-tbh, i've NEVER seen AC blocks presenting that type of problem till now.

Contact Shoggy, and don't forget to give him the full picture-metal composition of your loop, and what type cooling fluid is being utilised.

BTW-are you using silver in your loop?

(not that it should matter if the plating is done correctly-all it would do is act as a catalyst to possible corrosion).


----------



## Aftermath2006

No silver in loop just distilled with alittle PT Nuke Phn only been running since maybe end if june all the other blocks look good no issues


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> No silver in loop just distilled with alittle PT Nuke Phn only been running since maybe end if june all the other blocks look good no issues


So have you opened the block to see if it's nickle flaking for sure. I ask because I used PT Nuke phn and my nickle EK blocks had a copper looking mess on just the high spots (like your ac block) My blocks at the time were two weeks old. So I took one a part (Thinking is was a goner) and the copper-ish crap rubbed off with a cloth... Nickle was just fine... I still worry about it, but that's what I do best


----------



## Aftermath2006

yeah i opened them last night no go its exposed copper for sure


----------



## VSG

Anyone have suggestions on the best tubing color for this part here? Please excuse the picture quality, my dSLR is under repair


















I have some Mayhems dye but since this is my first build ever, I would rather keep it dye-less. I got 10 feet of primochill advanced LRT in red and 6 feet in clear. I am considering to also have all tubing in 3/4" sleeving (Modsmart Kobra HD, inexpensive, comes in a variety of colors and looks really nice) so a wide spectrum of colors are available.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> yeah i opened them last night no go its exposed copper for sure


That sucks, let us know how the RMA turns out.


----------



## BradleyW

Can anyone validate the information in this read? Think of it as a poll.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1449448/which-blanking-plugs-are-best-suited#post_21347246
Thank you.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is there such thing as 90 degrees Blood red compression fitting from Bitpower? when I search for it, it only got black and chrome and not blood red one. I am looking for blood red compression fitting.


Just get the 90 degree adaptor and a regular compression fitting


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> No silver in loop just distilled with alittle *PT Nuke Phn* only been running since maybe end if june all the other blocks look good no issues


Chlorides and Nickel dont mix do they?

Just thinking out loud.....


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Chlorides and Nickel dont mix do they?
> 
> Just thinking out loud.....


This is going to be very stupid but I don't actually think PHN has Cl in it... If it did then yes, Ni and Cl would react to form NiCl2


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> This is going to be very stupid but I don't actually think PHN has Cl in it... If it did then yes, Ni and Cl would react to form NiCl2


Use: Add 4 drops per 1L of coolant for approx. 2ppm
Active Ingredient: Benzalkonium chloride 1.65%

Warning: This product contains Benzalkonium chloride. DO NOT INGEST! AVOID CONTACT WITH EYES AND SKIN! KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN AND PETS!


----------



## Aftermath2006

so if biocide for distilled is what could have caused this what would be better to use

also there was no effect on any of the other nickel in my loop


----------



## rickyman0319

Corsair SP 120 = 0.18A ( .18 x 12v) = 2.16w

I have Lamptron FC-6 controller. it has 20w per channel.

can I put all SP120 ( non and pwm) into 1 channel or not? if I can do it, what do I need to make it work?


----------



## King4x4

You can't.

Give a 25% wattage as a spare on each channel as safety margin.

At startup fan amps jump through the roof just to get them rolling and then it settles down to a more stable amps.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have 4 Sp120 fan. so I can at least put 2 fan per channel or only 1 fan per channel.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Use: Add 4 drops per 1L of coolant for approx. 2ppm
> Active Ingredient: Benzalkonium chloride 1.65%
> 
> Warning: This product contains Benzalkonium chloride. DO NOT INGEST! AVOID CONTACT WITH EYES AND SKIN! KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN AND PETS!


Nevermind, I found it. Cl is not actually attached to the Benzalkonium ion.
So yes, theoretically the Ni will want to bond with the Cl- ions to form NiCl2.


----------



## VSG

So what are the odds one can damage a CPU by pushing tubing hard onto the CPU block?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So what are the odds one can damage a CPU by pushing tubing hard onto the CPU block?


I pushed and pulled and yanked and torqued my cpu block a lot when I was installing fittings and tubing....everything is still working fine. So I'm guessing the odds are pretty low.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So what are the odds one can damage a CPU by pushing tubing hard onto the CPU block?


If it had no IHS, lots. With an IHS, almost impossible. You'd crack the motherboard before that would happen.


----------



## Anoxy

What is IHS


----------



## Aftermath2006

so what would be better to use with distilled to stop this in the future or should i just buy a different block


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What is IHS


Integrated Heat Spreader.


----------



## VSG

Ok that's good to know I haven't likely damaged my 4770k. Primochill tubing and bitspower fittings don't like each other a lot!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ok that's good to know I haven't likely damaged my 4770k. Primochill tubing and bitspower fittings don't like each other a lot!


Try using a blow-dryer to warm up the ends of the tubes and make them more malleable...they will slide right on.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I would go with something copper sulfate based, that's what I'm gonna do anyway. Well that or buy all new copper blocks


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Chlorides and Nickel dont mix do they?
> 
> Just thinking out loud.....


THIS^^^

Add to that the fact that biocides *at times* (with or without skc) have also been known to cause problems.

Maybe it was the a one off, remember that plated wc blocks are done in a conveyor belt manner, not individually by hand (that costs a ton).

Just RMA it-as i said before over 3+ yrs of wc, ive never seen AC blocks do that.

Good luck









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> so what would be better to use with distilled to stop this in the future or should i just buy a different block


You could try one of the various "ready made' coolants (they tend to generally include anti corrosion properties) manufactured by quite a few companies out there,

eg: Mayhem's,EK,Koolance etc.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> I would go with something copper sulfate based, that's what I'm gonna do anyway. Well that or buy all new copper blocks


Unfortunately CuSo4 is even worse.
Nickel is above Copper on the Activity series so It will replace the Cu ions in CuSO4 to form NiSO4 by single replacement


----------



## HeyBear

Hi guys,
quick question hopefully:

Planning a new build:
2x 480 radiators
1x 360 radiator
1x 240 radiator
1x CPU block
2x GPU block

Will one d5 be enough to run that loop with no issues or would I be better off with 2?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> I would go with something copper sulfate based, that's what I'm gonna do anyway. Well that or buy all new copper blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately CuSo4 is even worse.
> Nickel is above Copper on the Activity series so It will replace the Cu ions in CuSO4 to form NiSO4 by single replacement
Click to expand...

Now to translate that into what we are seeing with these blocks,the chemistry can lead that way but does it apply?
Would we see the erosion like we are seeing here? Is this a the result of a galvanic cell or erosion by substitution?

OP-Is there any flakes? debris of any sort?


----------



## Aftermath2006

yeah havent seen it before on AC blocks either this is my 3rd time using them had 680 blocks by them and 560 blocks as well ran the same stuff no problem then bam titan blocks do it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> yeah havent seen it before on AC blocks either this is my 3rd time using them had 680 blocks by them and 560 blocks as well ran the same stuff no problem then bam titan blocks do it


Aftermath,I would like you to keep us informed of your RMA progression if you would? I recommend AC and Watercool blocks all the time. How they deal with this will determine my future recommendations.
Can you post more pictures up with more detail..preferably with the cover off?
Thanks.


----------



## iamkraine

Anyone have any experience with Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Enhance Multi-Link For Acrylic Tube OD 12MM vs the regular crystal link C47 for acrylic tubing.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1285&products_id=39665

I'm putting together a loop and want to use acrylic tubing, probably E22 with bitspower fittings. I want to make sure i'm getting the right stuff before making a purchase.


----------



## Aftermath2006

i didnt see any flakes at all looks almost like it was rubbed off


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Enhance Multi-Link For Acrylic Tube OD 12MM vs the regular crystal link C47 for acrylic tubing.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1285&products_id=39665
> 
> I'm putting together a loop and want to use acrylic tubing, probably E22 with bitspower fittings. I want to make sure i'm getting the right stuff before making a purchase.


Those are fine for acrylic tube. They are much easier to use than the c47.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the C47's were really meant for connecting GPU's together but work great for acrylic loops too. The new ones you linked to are their new fittings meant for acrylic loops


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now to translate that into what we are seeing with these blocks,the chemistry can lead that way but does it apply?
> Would we see the erosion like we are seeing here? Is this a the result of a galvanic cell or erosion by substitution?
> 
> OP-Is there any flakes? debris of any sort?


Just going to preface everything by saying I'm I highschooler in second year chemistry -not an expert by any means. However I do feel comfortable enough with this particular branch of chemistry to be able to predict what will happen.

It would most likely translate into a bunch of pitting and a little peeling depending on the quality of Ni plating. It is probably a weak plated lemon that the O.P. has.

The fact is every time you have two different metals there will be corrosion, even Cu and Silver. However the corrosion is so minuscule normally that it won't have any effect. It would take upwards of 5 years to be noticeable. So yes, Ni and silver in the same loop are technically bad, but so is the Lead in Radiator solder and the Cu and we don't worry about those. I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure if you took a Cu waterblock under a lab grade microscope that has been run in an all copper loop with some silver the results would not be good. Nickel is very hard to plate on properly, therefore when the corrosion does occur it is very easily separated from the Cu. However most of the time the Ni isn't plated improperly so no issues arise.

Corrosion will always happen with different metals in our loops, 99% of the time it is harmless and not noticeable. The 1% often involves Nickel (or Al) as these are the most reactive common cooling metals and like to react with other metals.


----------



## Aftermath2006

Keep in mind as well that its 2 blocks as well







Cover off pics

I have sent them an email with pics and loop details i also sent shoggy a message to get his thoughts now
Its the waiting game


----------



## rickyman0319

can FC-6 read pwm on 655 pump or not? or maybe control it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can FC-6 read pwm on 655 pump or not? or maybe control it?


No,the FC6 is purely voltage controlling,it has no PWM functions


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well the C47's were really meant for connecting GPU's together but work great for acrylic loops too. The new ones you linked to are their new fittings meant for acrylic loops


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those are fine for acrylic tube. They are much easier to use than the c47.


May I ask you guys what the difference is between the Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90 Degree (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_611_629&products_id=27723 ) vs the regular non Rotary ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_620&products_id=26764 )

Can you still turn the non Rotary into position that you want?


----------



## SeeThruHead

No, once tightened down it wont turn to the direction you want it. The rotaries are better for most uses.


----------



## rickyman0319

which fan controller has pwm function?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

So basically I should get copper blocks and sell my nickle Titans and Supremacy CSQ...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> which fan controller has pwm function?


Aquaero5 has 1 PWM channel, Aquaero6 has 4 PWM channels. Not sure many other fan controllers have true PWM.

Motherboards and GPUs also have PWM headers. The rig I'm typing this on now uses the GPU header with an adapter to control pump speed with PWM.


----------



## Hefner

Anyone got some information about for me about compression fittings for solid acrylic? I know about the primochill ones but I dislike the looks of those. They're just so... bulky.

I found these which I really like: http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/compression-fitting-for-metalacrylic-tubing

Anyone know when these will be released? Or if there are more options?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> So basically I should get copper blocks and sell my nickle Titans and Supremacy CSQ...


No need to go chicken little. Check your blocks. Ek dont mind you opening acetal blocks. If you have exposed copper, submit a ticket







.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> So basically I should get copper blocks and sell my nickle Titans and Supremacy CSQ...


That is going a little bit overboard, don't ya think? I'm am not sure if this is a serious question, or if trolling for a response.









Now if there were more than this one person experiencing an issue with a particular manufacturer of a specific model block, then maybe that would be something to consider. But if it would help you to sleep better, by all means take that route.









I think it would be best to wait and see how this unfolds tho.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Anyone got some information about for me about compression fittings for solid acrylic? I know about the primochill ones but I dislike the looks of those. They're just so... bulky.
> 
> I found these which I really like: http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/compression-fitting-for-metalacrylic-tubing
> 
> Anyone know when these will be released? Or if there are more options?


*Bitspower* has the same option.

But really, the primochill fittings are not that bulky, even the original ones, when you actually have them in hand to compare. Pictures seem to make them look bulkier than they really are.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> So basically I should get copper blocks and sell my nickle Titans and Supremacy CSQ...


Like I said previously, we cover all of our nickel blocks. In the rare case that one might flake, we will replace it. No need to switch them out.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> *Bitspower* has the same option.
> 
> But really, the primochill fittings are not that bulky, even the original ones, when you actually have them in hand to compare. Pictures seem to make them look bulkier than they really are.


Are there any angled compression fittings for solid acrylic?


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Are there any angled compression fittings for solid acrylic?


You just use regular rotary fittings, same as you would with compression or barb fittings


----------



## Maximus Knight

Anyone here happen to be needing a 770 Classified HC block? Noticed it has been OOS for a while..=/


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> Testing out my new psu cables, going to find a better way to route them afterwards.


If that's for a Miami Dolphins build, I think I've found my new best friend...


----------



## BradleyW

Hey folks, is this the same as any other distilled water from watercooling e-commerce stores?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_165335_langId_-1_categoryId_255205#tab3
Thank you.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

That is deionised not distilled but it is absolutely fine to use in your loop.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> That is deionised not distilled but it is absolutely fine to use in your loop.


I intend to use it just for flushing the new parts.


----------



## Anoxy

Why would you order water?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If it had no IHS, lots. With an IHS, almost impossible. You'd crack the motherboard before that would happen.


So what about the chipset? I have a "southbrige" block and I ended up having to use d-plugs.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Why would you order water?


We can get Distilled Water cheap and conveniently in the USA. Not everywhere's like that. That's why WC companies sell it. UK for instance...


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Why would you order water?


^This. It's all the same. It pains me when people but a $30 gallon of Primochill "Super Distilled" Water.


----------



## kpoeticg

That's cuz u live in the US. Not every country has the option to get distilled from CVS


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> We can get Distilled Water cheap and conveniently in the USA. Not everywhere's like that. That's why WC companies sell it. UK for instance...


Distilled water is like gold in the UK. Very expensive.


----------



## Jakusonfire

In Au its a bit the same, the easiest I found was 3 litre jugs from my local pharmacy. I don't know if UK pharmacies still stock that sort of thing though.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No need to go chicken little. Check your blocks. Ek dont mind you opening acetal blocks. If you have exposed copper, submit a ticket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> That is going a little bit overboard, don't ya think? I'm am not sure if this is a serious question, or if trolling for a response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if there were more than this one person experiencing an issue with a particular manufacturer of a specific model block, then maybe that would be something to consider. But if it would help you to sleep better, by all means take that route.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it would be best to wait and see how this unfolds tho.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Like I said previously, we cover all of our nickel blocks. In the rare case that one might flake, we will replace it. No need to switch them out.


Thanks guys. I tend to panic about wrecking my gear... I'll clean that little spot and reflush everything/refill with dead water and distilled.


----------



## HOTDOGS

I want, so badly, to be a member of this group


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> I want, so badly, to be a member of this group


Then you know what must be done!!!!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> In Au its a bit the same, the easiest I found was 3 litre jugs from my local pharmacy. I don't know if UK pharmacies still stock that sort of thing though.


Thoughg for sure I would be able to get mine at a petrol station here in aus like I would in jamaica,ended up getting it at the Woolworth supermarket....


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> In Au its a bit the same, the easiest I found was 3 litre jugs from my local pharmacy. I don't know if UK pharmacies still stock that sort of thing though.


Are you kidding me ??
It's at every supermarket in Australia, even 24hr convenience stores have it (for those midnight sessions)








$3.50 for 4 liters.
David Gray's Distilled Water - as on label.....
Used for Steam Irons, Batteries, Air Conditioners, Laboratory Purposes.
I consider my cooling gear fits under Laboratory Purposes


----------



## GuestVeea

My current PC build! Specs: i7-3770k @4.6GHz, EVGA GTX 670, MSI Z77A-GD55, 8gb RAM, 750w PSU. 64gb SSD, 750gb HDD, Thermaltake armor Jr. Custom Water cooling


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Are you kidding me ??
> It's at every supermarket in Australia, even 24hr convenience stores have it (for those midnight sessions)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $3.50 for 4 liters.
> David Gray's Distilled Water - as on label.....
> Used for Steam Irons, Batteries, Air Conditioners, Laboratory Purposes.
> I consider my cooling gear fits under Laboratory Purposes


No, not kidding. Its obviously not at every supermarket in Australia because I went to every one in Newcastle. Plenty of Demineralised but no distilled.

Edit: This might interest you too








http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/archive/oz-members-avoid-david-gray-s-distilled-water__o_t__t_16490.html

'Distilled water' that isn't actually distilled, Fantastic.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Yeah not every supermarket in Aus has it, I must be lucky, Woolies near me has 5L of distilled water for $4







, only cheap thing on the Sunshine Coast









My rig only takes 1.25L, so I got plenty to spare


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, not kidding. Its obviously not at every supermarket in Australia because I went to every one in Newcastle. Plenty of Demineralised but no distilled.
> 
> Edit: This might interest you too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/archive/oz-members-avoid-david-gray-s-distilled-water__o_t__t_16490.html
> 
> Distilled water that isn't actually distilled


OK sorry - maybe not everywhere, but surprising you can't get easily in Newcastle.
Hmm - interesting read about the deionized water - good link









I've used that brand for years without failure of any rad - solder - fittings yet.
Makes me a bit skitty though









For the chemists among us - deionized no good then ??
Must source proper pure distilled ??
This is the line from that link forum that worries me most...
'Deionized water contains no ions, which means it has had the chemically reactive molecules removed. If put into contact with metals, however, it will happily take on new ions, with disastrous results.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> ^This. It's all the same. It pains me when people but a $30 gallon of Primochill "Super Distilled" Water.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's cuz u live in the US. Not every country has the option to get distilled from CVS


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Distilled water is like gold in the UK. Very expensive.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> In Au its a bit the same, the easiest I found was 3 litre jugs from my local pharmacy. I don't know if UK pharmacies still stock that sort of thing though.


If worse comes to worse, you can buy and use the water for baby formula powder. Can't remember what they're called.

Same thing as distilled. Well, at least in Canada.


----------



## WebsterXC

Sorry didn't realize DI water wasn't the same price in UK and Aus, didn't mean to sound ignorant


----------



## wermad

$0.82 @walmart for a gallon of distilled h2o







.

Most pharmacies carry di water as its used frequently in medicine. I have to get to walmart early or the elderly clear out the shelves







.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Many places around the world do not sell distilled water anywhere. As far as watercooling goes, the difference between distilled and deionized is inconsequential. Go with distilled if you can get it easy / cheap enough, but if where you live distilled is hard to find and deionized (aka demineralized) is prevalent, then by all means you can use it instead with no worries. Deionized may not remove all the organic particles like a distilling process does, but as long as you are going to use a few drops of PTNuke or a silver kill coil or some other similar biological control in any case, you're good to go.

Here's a post from another member in a similar discussion about distilled/deionized who knows the deal ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> If you have easy access to both get distilled. But in Europe many use deionized, since it is everywhere and cheap like distilled is in USA, and distilled is more difficult to access. And since OP is in Canada, if they have easy cheap access to deionized and not distilled, then I would use deionized in that case...but I would check cost in pharmacy if u say they sell it.
> 
> Fact is you will probably introduce more bacteria and microorganisms yourself than exists in either distilled or deionized water... from your components that you handled, fittings, your pouring water, inside rad, inside your res, etc. And using a biocide will make either distilled or deionized ok.


----------



## szeged

i just pee in my loop, no need to spend money on dyes, and its free!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i just pee in my loop, no need to spend money on dyes, and its free!


I'm assuming thats after you have had a lot of beers,otherwise it would take forever to fill your loop....


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm assuming thats after you have had a lot of beers,otherwise it would take forever to fill your loop....


of course







i dont want it to take hours to fill!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Sorry didn't realize DI water wasn't the same price in UK and Aus, didn't mean to sound ignorant


Yep, sorry guys, didn't mean to offend. I always forget how many different countries are represented on this forum.


----------



## wermad

Lol, reminded me of Austin Powers









New goodies coming in this week:


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, reminded me of Austin Powers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New goodies coming in this week:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


sexy, cant wait to see updates in your log.

I accidentally ordered only enough EK dominator adapters for one block since i forgot 2011 is quad channel lol, one ram side on the RIVE-BE watercooled, other air, im sure it wont look ghetto lol. Someone has to remind me to order them on monday when i got back to ppc.


----------



## Striker36

do they make that RAM block with out the silly circles?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sexy, cant wait to see updates in your log.
> 
> I accidentally ordered only enough EK dominator adapters for one block since i forgot 2011 is quad channel lol, one ram side on the RIVE-BE watercooled, other air, im sure it wont look ghetto lol. Someone has to remind me to order them on monday when i got back to ppc.


Rather buying a second and very unnecessary 16gb kit of of vengeance, I'll just run two on each side for quad-channel of my existing 4x4gb kit. Also, keeps the cost down on plates.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So question time from me again









While considering getting a smaller res I seen the Bitspower 120mm Water Tank Mount Panel which got me thinking would one or two be strong enough to hold a Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 80 (would end up being my setup with a new res) and a Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Kit, I know its a lot of weight to be putting on the rad/fans and I realize I may need to use some spacers if the pump top or mod kit sticks out to far, could/would it work or could it be to heaving and break the fans? plan on going push pull fans on both my rads so as I can have all the fans on 5v, 12v is a little to loud for my tastes









Thanks


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So question time from me again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While considering getting a smaller res I seen the Bitspower 120mm Water Tank Mount Panel which got me thinking would one or two be strong enough to hold a Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 80 (would end up being my setup with a new res) and a Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Kit, I know its a lot of weight to be putting on the rad/fans and I realize I may need to use some spacers if the pump top or mod kit sticks out to far, could/would it work or could it be to heaving and break the fans? plan on going push pull fans on both my rads so as I can have all the fans on 5v, 12v is a little to loud for my tastes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Yes that would work fine, just make sure your screws are tight. The bracket itself is very sturdy and would have no trouble holding up to that weight


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So question time from me again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While considering getting a smaller res I seen the Bitspower 120mm Water Tank Mount Panel which got me thinking would one or two be strong enough to hold a Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 80 (would end up being my setup with a new res) and a Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Kit, I know its a lot of weight to be putting on the rad/fans and I realize I may need to use some spacers if the pump top or mod kit sticks out to far, could/would it work or could it be to heaving and break the fans? plan on going push pull fans on both my rads so as I can have all the fans on 5v, 12v is a little to loud for my tastes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Maybe this one would be better?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34525


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> do they make that RAM block with out the silly circles?


You can buy a replacement top for them http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=38768


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Yes that would work fine, just make sure your screws are tight. The bracket itself is very sturdy and would have no trouble holding up to that weight


Ah ok cool, thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Maybe this one would be better?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34525


Oh maybe, I'll have to work out sizing


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Distilled water is like gold in the UK. Very expensive.


Time to move to the UK and hustle DI









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> do they make that RAM block with out the silly circles?


Yessir but you have to buy the Monarch X4 with the CSQ design as they do not offer the kit with the "clean" CSQ. You have to buy the "clean" top separate.

But it looks so good.




EDIT: EK I would have loved it if you agreed to make a block for my UP7. I'm so over XSPC.


----------



## Juthos




----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> *EDIT: EK I would have loved it if you agreed to make a block for my UP7. I'm so over XSPC*.


This all day lol.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## sam350

Hello all just wanted to get some feedback on a idea.

Id like to start up and make my own custom Graphics Cards UV Reactive Backplates..

Would this be something that you would all like and crave?

thinking of making simple uv reactive blue, red, green graphics card backplates.. for and AMD, Nvidia cards... simple designs at first such as words that say GTX 780 etc.... that have spaces to fit uv 3mm lights...then later on get custom pics and etching services once iv got it all worked out....

Any feedback would be appreciated as will cost a bit to set up


----------



## kpoeticg

Backplates would be great since ColdZero's sites been down forever it seems. I'd be interested in seeing what you can come up with. I'm going 290x's for my build tho so can't comment much about the 780 part


----------



## FiveEYZ

Loop is finally finished










Just need to put in my ssd's and it's done.


----------



## szeged

Hey guys, need some help here again, decided i will be using my sth10 for my new build in my sig, over the 900D since i finally got my fan filter problem sorted.

what i cant figure out though, is how i should go about doing the loop in it, i got it mapped out where the blocks/rads/res will be, but no idea which way would be ideal to route the tubing, sooooo...i want some ideas, heres what i got so far -



as you can see i havent put inlet/outlet ports on the rads because i dont know which way i want them to go, so if you can, please help me optimize which way to have the rads, and where to route the tubing, thanks, will be doing soft tubing for now for a couple weeks till i get closer to the end of the build, when i will switch it to acrylic, but the routing will most likely stay roughly the same.

Thanks.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, need some help here again, decided i will be using my sth10 for my new build in my sig, over the 900D since i finally got my fan filter problem sorted.
> 
> what i cant figure out though, is how i should go about doing the loop in it, i got it mapped out where the blocks/rads/res will be, but no idea which way would be ideal to route the tubing, sooooo...i want some ideas, heres what i got so far -
> 
> 
> 
> as you can see i havent put inlet/outlet ports on the rads because i dont know which way i want them to go, so if you can, please help me optimize which way to have the rads, and where to route the tubing, thanks, will be doing soft tubing for now for a couple weeks till i get closer to the end of the build, when i will switch it to acrylic, but the routing will most likely stay roughly the same.
> 
> Thanks.


You really can't go wrong, no matter how you do the loop. You will just need to get creative


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> You really can't go wrong, no matter how you do the loop. You will just need to get creative


im just tryin to get ideas for the cleanest routing really, im sitting here looking at it going " how the hell am i gonna make this look good" lol


----------



## Inviso

Res->Pump->CPU->TopRad->GPU's->BottomRad->FrontRad

Seems like it would be the cleanest to me.

Or you could do all three Rads in a row to the pump and then to CPU and GPU.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im just tryin to get ideas for the cleanest routing really, im sitting here looking at it going " how the hell am i gonna make this look good" lol


It looks good already brother. I would throw a few piranhas in the tank. Is that new bits power z tank going on this case or the 900D? The thing is bigger than what it looks like in the pictures.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, need some help here again, decided i will be using my sth10 for my new build in my sig, over the 900D since i finally got my fan filter problem sorted.
> 
> what i cant figure out though, is how i should go about doing the loop in it, i got it mapped out where the blocks/rads/res will be, but no idea which way would be ideal to route the tubing, sooooo...i want some ideas, heres what i got so far -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you can see i havent put inlet/outlet ports on the rads because i dont know which way i want them to go, so if you can, please help me optimize which way to have the rads, and where to route the tubing, thanks, will be doing soft tubing for now for a couple weeks till i get closer to the end of the build, when i will switch it to acrylic, but the routing will most likely stay roughly the same.
> 
> Thanks.


I think I would do this;


I did not think about rad orientations, because if you got all the rad outlets to be on the top of the radiator, it would probably make bleeding easier.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I think I would do this;
> 
> 
> I did not think about rad orientations, because if you got all the rad outlets to be on the top of the radiator, it would probably make bleeding easier.


thanks for the suggestion, it looks a bit empty for the sth10, but ill give it a try and see if i like it.

Anyone else got more suggestions?


----------



## VSG

Build in the 900D then, that's what I am doing and it is beginning to look pretty cramped:


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> You can buy a replacement top for them http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_294&products_id=38768


woo! thanks. i might have to pick one of those up now haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Time to move to the UK and hustle DI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yessir but you have to buy the Monarch X4 with the CSQ design as they do not offer the kit with the "clean" CSQ. You have to buy the "clean" top separate.
> 
> But it looks so good.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: EK I would have loved it if you agreed to make a block for my UP7. I'm so over XSPC.


that looks SO much better imo....

thanks guys.


----------



## Anoxy

cramped > empty imo


----------



## VSG

I agree, now if only my reservoir got here I could fit it in that gap between the motherboard and the HDD/front bays.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> cramped > empty imo


Definitely this. I've found myself trying to come up with ways to fill space in my desk build. Hence the use of two reservoirs. It can get too cramped though then it just starts to look cluttered. There's a fine line between full and cluttered. It's all subjective though


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Om nom box from Bitspower....out of focus=fail from me!


----------



## brandon6199

Final parts have arrived. Will be working on setting it all up when I get home from work


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, need some help here again, decided i will be using my sth10 for my new build in my sig, over the 900D since i finally got my fan filter problem sorted.
> 
> what i cant figure out though, is how i should go about doing the loop in it, i got it mapped out where the blocks/rads/res will be, but no idea which way would be ideal to route the tubing, sooooo...i want some ideas, heres what i got so far -
> 
> as you can see i havent put inlet/outlet ports on the rads because i dont know which way i want them to go, so if you can, please help me optimize which way to have the rads, and where to route the tubing, thanks, will be doing soft tubing for now for a couple weeks till i get closer to the end of the build, when i will switch it to acrylic, but the routing will most likely stay roughly the same.
> 
> Thanks.


Here's my take


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys so I discovered an algae problem in my MM Ascension loop the other day so that gave me a great excuse to rip it apart, clean everything, and then buy MOAR stuffs! The loop looked pretty mediocre IMO so I'm not going to make it a lot better. Here is a before picture:




So I got rid of the Black Ice GTX 360mm, moved the Swiftech 360mm up into its place and then installed an Alphacool Monsta 240mm below it. The VPP655 that you see in the EK top had a broken ball inside so I stuck a paper clip in its place and it worked like it was brand new the entire time, but when I opened it up to clean it I discovered that the paper clip had rusted (how did I not think of that when I did it?) so I bought an MCP655 to replace it. Also, I got rid of all them ugly barbs and replaced them with Red Monsoon Compressions to mix & match with my Chrome Monsoon Compressions. I even got rid of that EK Coolstream 140mm rad. Lastly I sold 0.2BTC @ $1150/BTC and with that money I was able to buy an MSI Twin Frozr III 7950 v277 with 6+8 pins, an Alphacool 7950 fullcover block that I traded him a while ago, and an OCZ Vertex 4 128Gb SSD! Now is that a deal or what?? Since the MSI TFIII is sporting a 7970 PCB I can't fit the water block on it. I ordered that block 5 months ago and Performance-PCs was nice enough to let me RMA it for store credit and purchase the correct Alphacool 7970 block for that card. Now THAT is how you take care of your customers! So I just sent the block in today. I will post some pics of the current state of my PC once I get home and update you guys as I rebuild it to look MUCH sexier









Oh yea and I purchased some liquid utopia to prevent future algae problems and a silver bullet plug along with all new 3/8 5/8 Primochill advanced LRT tubing.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Build in the 900D then, that's what I am doing and it is beginning to look pretty cramped:


Looks great, but there is one problem...

My OCD is telling me that the fans on the HDD bays need to be switched to fit your color scheme. Clockwise from the top it is going red, grey, red, RED, GREY, grey, red, grey, red.

It SHOULD go red, grey, red, GREY, RED, grey, red, grey, red.

LOL sorry I had to say something. Looks absolutely beautiful otherwise though.

EDIT: If you don't change it I will never let you live it down


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Then you know what must be done!!!!


Empty my wallet


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Empty my wallet


you still have something in there? youre not trying hard enough yet


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> you still have something in there? youre not trying hard enough yet


Maybe I can watercool with this button and piece of lint I've been holding onto for so long. I could use the lint as a moist sponge and the button as some form of tension bracket. I'll be doing some benches, so stay tuned!


----------



## Im Batman

Would anyone please be able to point me in the direction of some waterblock reviews for the 290x, trying to decide between an XSPC or Koolance block.


----------



## Trolle BE

i wonder how many pwm channels that ek fancontroller will have?
im quite excited for that fc because the aquaero 6 went up in price here


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> Would anyone please be able to point me in the direction of some waterblock reviews for the 290x, trying to decide between an XSPC or Koolance block.


Differences in temperature are most likely going to be minimal, in the range of a couple degrees C. I'd go with whatever fits your build better


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Looks great, but there is one problem...
> 
> My OCD is telling me that the fans on the HDD bays need to be switched to fit your color scheme. Clockwise from the top it is going red, grey, red, RED, GREY, grey, red, grey, red.
> 
> It SHOULD go red, grey, red, GREY, RED, grey, red, grey, red.
> 
> LOL sorry I had to say something. Looks absolutely beautiful otherwise though.
> 
> EDIT: If you don't change it I will never let you live it down


lol if it helps, there is a white fan you are not seeing on the top rad. Also, both rads are on push pull and the red-white-red scheme follows through everywhere- including the 2 fans in front of the HDD bays not visible in this picture.

But ya, this is an easy fix- I just switch around all 4 fans on the HDD bays


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Differences in temperature are most likely going to be minimal, in the range of a couple degrees C. I'd go with whatever fits your build better


Will do, thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bitspower goodies.
Fittings...quantity: a heap.


These are the fittings i will be using,not a vast variety but plenty of them!











And finally,the IMPACT full cover in all her glory!


----------



## kpoeticg

Great pics!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Rushed pics and poor composition!!!


Fixed.

Sadly.


----------



## kpoeticg

LOLLLLLLLL, damn. I got a little drool on my keyboard over here....


----------



## Belial

Hey all, I'm replacing the tubing on my H60 and h110 (theres a thread on it, i'm well aware of the futility of the mod, its entirely for aesthetics), and was wondering what's better looking, blue tubing or blue dye. I need a dark blue, too, and not sure if a dye exists for that, to match my Z87X-UD3H, electric blue paracord, and other dark blue of the build.

Thanks.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey all, I'm replacing the tubing on my H60 and h110 (theres a thread on it, i'm well aware of the futility of the mod, its entirely for aesthetics), and was wondering what's better looking, blue tubing or blue dye. I need a dark blue, too, and not sure if a dye exists for that, to match my Z87X-UD3H, electric blue paracord, and other dark blue of the build.
> 
> Thanks.


I would check out Mayhems Dyes, you can really get stuff dark with them.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18041/ex-liq-358/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Dark_Blue.html?tl=c103s185b217

Also I have the PrimoChill LRT Brilliant Blue UV tubing and I must say it is pretty dark blue, I am also goign to be running Mayhems UV Blue liquid through with some of their blue dye to darken it up, as I want to be able to see blue liquid in my Photon res









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17869/ex-tub-1601/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_716ID_x_58_OD_-_Brilliant_UV_Blue_PFLEXA-758-B.html?tl=c99s809b46


----------



## ikem

finally found a new top! the holes on the left is the lighted res.

going to look awesome with these tracers!


----------



## Aftermath2006

so ive still heard nothing back from aquacomputer so anybody know any other way to get a response i emailed the support and no response so what other route could i take and im not sure about how to fill out a rma with them its in german


----------



## kpoeticg

You could try sending shoggy a pm


----------



## Aftermath2006

i sent him one 2 days ago no response yet


----------



## kpoeticg

I could just be cuz it was the weekend. I'm not sure what to say, i can't imagine you're not gonna get a response. AC's a pretty decent size company


----------



## Anoxy

Despite amazing temps from watercooling, my 3570k is the biggest pile of overclocking crap in the world


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Despite amazing temps from watercooling, my 3570k is the biggest pile of overclocking crap in the world


Hey I hear you, my 2500k is kinda crappy to OC, great temps but 4.5GHz seems to be my max


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys just wanted to get some opinions/suggestions @ this point. I have most of my hardware now and starting to order all my WC parts as I have 0 to begin w/ just the parts / case / motherboard that all house the items that require it.

So first things first, been debating between EK / XSPC for a couple weeks now, both models would be the LED ones, and EK would be the crystal clear, and the XSPC would be the Razor.

These are for the Titan as I have 2 cards and looking to get a 3rd. So first thing I found was that the old XSPC didn't actively cool VRM's though since then I have yet to find a review (other than the one on OC3D which doesn't mention VRM) or information w/ new tests relating to this one. Though I'm showing on another forum Stren did some tests w/ them but the link w/ the results even though he mentioned good things was dead.

Anywhoo to find out I sent an email off to XSPC today asking if they could confirm the new model does indeed cool the VRM's vice the old one since EK has that ability.

My email
Quote:


> Hi I just wanted to confirm some information that I'm unable to find anywhere on the internet. During 2012 EK rose over XSPC blocks in terms of cooling due to EK cooling VRM's in which XSPC was reported to not actively cool.
> 
> I'm informed that there is a new design w/ the XSPC Razor blocks for the Titan, do they actively cool the VRM's now? This is a big concern to me, as I really love the aesthetics for the Razor though I cannot find any reviews other than on Overclock3D which you've posted but they make no mention of VRM cooling.
> 
> Appreciate any information you can provide.


Their reply:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSPC Rep*
> "Hi,
> It will cool the VRM's."


And they included this photo.



While I"m still new to this was curious if anyone had any experience w/ this or knowledge on the latest models or if I should just stick to EK FC Acrylic LED (Nickle) blocks?

Thanks for reading and for any input you may have. Learning tons here!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hey I hear you, my 2500k is kinda crappy to OC, great temps but 4.5GHz seems to be my max


Yeah, either I'm not overclocking correctly or I just lost the silicon lottery. Followed this guide, but no dice.

Oh well, maybe I'll upgrade to 1155 or 2011 in the future and get better luck ;(


----------



## kpoeticg

Luna, any block that says Full Cover is meant to cool the VRM's


----------



## wermad

There's two types of gpu blocks available (generally speaking): universal blocks and full cover blocks.





Universal blocks only cool the core of the graphics card while a full cover block in most cases will cool the vram and vrm (active and passively).


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, either I'm not overclocking correctly or I just lost the silicon lottery. Followed this guide, but no dice.
> 
> Oh well, maybe I'll upgrade to 1155 or 2011 in the future and get better luck ;(


Ivy bridge doesnt overclock as well as Sandy does but it is hard getting a good overclocker anyway, what I normally do is put in a voltage Im comfortable with, atm using offset - 25 its around 1.35v, then just see what it can do







. I am a very lazy overclocker tho, I run a few 30 min tests and thats it


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys I said I would post a little update to my Mountain Mods Ascension rebuild so here it is! Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

I'll spoiler most of them to not take up a lot of room




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Going to paint the bezel of the top NZXT Sentry black because it sticks out like a sore thumb and also get the remaining screws for the 360mm rad. I had those ones lying around. Had a little trouble finding screws to fit with the 38mm Ultra Kaze fans in front of the rad.





Running out of red and chrome monsoon compressions so I had to resort to some blues lol I didn't have a drain plan when I drained my loop a couple days ago and it was hell.


----------



## VSG

Has anyone tried Primochill Liquid Utopia with Mayhems dyes? Or should I just get the Primochill blood red dye intensifier?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Has anyone tried Primochill Liquid Utopia with Mayhems dyes? Or should I just get the Primochill blood red dye intensifier?


I actually just got some in the mail today lol. Had a horrible Algae problem. It says right on the bottle to only use with DI or distilled water. I think PT Nuke would be good for use with dyes


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd probly use the Mayhem dye. Mayhem's dye is just dye, so you can use it with anything really.


----------



## Dveight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> The cart you posted on the firts post looks good to me. Only thing you are missing is a male to male extender.


ok it funny to me male to male extender. :0 cant wait for my water cooling ugh february cant get hear fast enough.


----------



## ikem

~


----------



## Dveight

i do have a question for u all. im going to use a swiftech d5 pump, and a bay res. So im wanting to mount my pump to the bottom of my 5.25 bay can i do this or does it need to be mounted in a serten way??


----------



## Dveight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~


What xeons are you running


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dveight*
> 
> What xeons are you running


Check his sig rig









edit; CPU CPU Motherboard Graphics
Intel Xeon E-2650 8C/16T Intel Xeon E-2650 8C/16T Asus Z9PE-D8 Workstation


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now THAT is tasty!


----------



## ikem

wish i had some more cash for some shiny BP fittings...

and yea E5-2650s good for me


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I actually just got some in the mail today lol. Had a horrible Algae problem. It says right on the bottle to only use with DI or distilled water. I think PT Nuke would be good for use with dyes


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'd probly use the Mayhem dye. Mayhem's dye is just dye, so you can use it with anything really.


Primochill also sells just dyes. The liquid utopia even comes bundled up with their dyes. The reason I ask is because the Primochill dyes are a lot truer to color but then Mayhems has an established record. First world problems!


----------



## Dveight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im just tryin to get ideas for the cleanest routing really, im sitting here looking at it going " how the hell am i gonna make this look good" lol


Why not get the xspc crossflow rads then. Theyare what im gonna use for my loop to help make it look as clean as possiable.


----------



## VSG

Why doesn't anyone make a white dye? It would have solved my problems. Anyway I decided to stick with just distilled + Liquid Utopia for now. I can always add in my Mayhems red dye later.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why doesn't anyone make a white dye? It would have solved my problems. Anyway I decided to stick with just distilled + Liquid Utopia for now. I can always add in my Mayhems red dye later.


Yea I have absolutely no interest in dye other than it looking sexy. Don't think I will ever use it. Just my opinion though. I do love checking out builds with dye! I'll just stick to my distilled + liquid utopia also.

I have a Mountain Mods. To me, that is eye-candy enough


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~


I personally think it would look better if you ditched the 45 degree rotaries. I honestly don't think you need them. When I did ditched them on my Z9PE-D8 WS I thought it looked a million times better.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea I have absolutely no interest in dye other than it looking sexy. Don't think I will ever use it. Just my opinion though. I do love checking out builds with dye! I'll just stick to my distilled + liquid utopia also.
> 
> I have a Mountain Mods. To me, that is eye-candy enough


I am pretty finicky about how I like certain things and I change my mind if something in my build seems not to fit in anymore. I got 10 feet of primochill red tubing and 4 bottles of swiftech hydrx concentrate that I bought but will likely be selling on eBay unless I can rack up 14 more rep points for the OCN marketplace. I also have a bunch of bitspower fittings I won't likely need but I am more hesitant getting rid of them


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am pretty finicky about how I like certain things and I change my mind if something in my build seems not to fit in anymore. I got 10 feet of primochill red tubing and 4 bottles of swiftech hydrx concentrate that I bought but will likely be selling on eBay unless I can rack up 14 more rep points for the OCN marketplace. I also have a bunch of bitspower fittings I won't likely need but I am more hesitant getting rid of them


What size tubing are you running? Only 13 more REP now!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thanks for the suggestion, it looks a bit empty for the sth10, but ill give it a try and see if i like it.
> 
> Anyone else got more suggestions?


Yeah, go back to the 900D and make it your own. It's kinda sad for me to see everyone just upping in size and forgetting about it. Yes I understand how cool Caselabs are. But for how much money they cost, it is not easy for anyone to decide "hey you know what, it'd be SO much better if I cut this out" and then do it cause it'd be a waste of money. I respect the people who take a case that isn't necessarily what they want to begin with, and MAKE it what they want, much more than the people who just straight up buy a big case and buy a lot of over sized watercooling equipment to fill the dead space they all of sudden realize they have. Cookie cutter builds with cookie cutter loops. Dare to be different I say.

/rant

..wermad, you aren't included in that group because you use to make your cases how you wanted them before and just got lazy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> cramped > empty imo


Agreed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I personally think it would look better if you ditched the 45 degree rotaries. I honestly don't think you need them. When I did ditched them on my Z9PE-D8 WS I thought it looked a million times better.


This. I always try to do all straight fittings unless it just HAS TO HAVE a 90 degree fitting. Love the look of the tubing loops when they go from block to block with straight fittings, which is why I did my rig that way.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey guys just wanted to get some opinions/suggestions @ this point. I have most of my hardware now and starting to order all my WC parts as I have 0 to begin w/ just the parts / case / motherboard that all house the items that require it.
> 
> So first things first, been debating between EK / XSPC for a couple weeks now, both models would be the LED ones, and EK would be the crystal clear, and the XSPC would be the Razor.
> 
> These are for the Titan as I have 2 cards and looking to get a 3rd. So first thing I found was that the old XSPC didn't actively cool VRM's though since then I have yet to find a review (other than the one on OC3D which doesn't mention VRM) or information w/ new tests relating to this one. Though I'm showing on another forum Stren did some tests w/ them but the link w/ the results even though he mentioned good things was dead.
> 
> Anywhoo to find out I sent an email off to XSPC today asking if they could confirm the new model does indeed cool the VRM's vice the old one since EK has that ability.
> 
> My email
> 
> Their reply:
> And they included this photo.
> 
> 
> 
> While I"m still new to this was curious if anyone had any experience w/ this or knowledge on the latest models or if I should just stick to EK FC Acrylic LED (Nickle) blocks?
> 
> Thanks for reading and for any input you may have. Learning tons here!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Luna, any block that says Full Cover is meant to cool the VRM's


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's two types of gpu blocks available (generally speaking): universal blocks and full cover blocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Universal blocks only cool the core of the graphics card while a full cover block in most cases will cool the vram and vrm (active and passively).


The poster seems a bit noobfused is all.

The XSPC blocks not actively cooling VRM's is a reference to their 7970 full cover block that did not actively pass water over the metal heatsink that cooled the VRM section.


That was only one model though and has nothing to do with new blocks for completely different graphics cards.
All Titan blocks have active VRM cooling
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/

XSPC cheaped out on the 7970 because they did not want to have to included a bridge over the vertical row of caps on ref 7970 cards.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys just wanted to know the best way to clean my rad with either a datavac or compressed air without removing the rads/fans or having to take the case outside....? Just saw some dust on the tip of the fan blades plus the rads,top rad with fans in push and bottom rad with push/pull,keep in mind i will be doing this inside my room and also without removing or lifting the case....Any help will be grateful....


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys just wanted to know the best way to clean my rad with either a datavac or compressed air without removing the rads/fans or having to take the case outside....? Just saw some dust on the tip of the fan blades plus the rads,top rad with fans in push and bottom rad with push/pull,keep in mind i will be doing this inside my room and also without removing or lifting the case....Any help will be grateful....


Hmm idk thats going to be a hard feat to accomplish without taking anything apart. I just take my rads out, run them under the sink, and then blow them out with my compressor







I would try the vac.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The poster seems a bit noobfused is all.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The XSPC blocks not actively cooling VRM's is a reference to their 7970 full cover block that did not actively pass water over the metal heatsink that cooled the VRM section.
> 
> 
> That was only one model though and has nothing to do with new blocks for completely different graphics cards.
> All Titan blocks have active VRM cooling
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/
> 
> XSPC cheaped out on the 7970 because they did not want to have to included a bridge over the vertical row of caps on ref 7970 cards.


My apologies for not including that part, what I was looking for was information based between the 2 , which thankfully someone posted where the review had been moved to as the one stren had posted originally didn't work. After getting more feedback I've decided that EK may be best since I"m informed that VRM Cooling > GPU Core cooling in terms of efficiency and stable overclocks.

If I"m incorrect in anyway please do let me know, my apologies for being confused, as I honest have been researching a couple weeks attempting to gain an answer and this is what I've achieved thus far. Greatly appreciate any educational value or information anyone has to offer as well.

Appreciate the note about it only being 7970 as I noticed that was the main point of focus just after which I could not find anything additional and just may have been searching incorrectly.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dveight*
> 
> Why not get the xspc crossflow rads then. Theyare what im gonna use for my loop to help make it look as clean as possiable.


Already got all the rads i will be using, i thought about grabbing some crossflow's but for now i want to try to make this work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Yeah, go back to the 900D and make it your own. It's kinda sad for me to see everyone just upping in size and forgetting about it. Yes I understand how cool Caselabs are. But for how much money they cost, it is not easy for anyone to decide "hey you know what, it'd be SO much better if I cut this out" and then do it cause it'd be a waste of money. I respect the people who take a case that isn't necessarily what they want to begin with, and MAKE it what they want, much more than the people who just straight up buy a big case and buy a lot of over sized watercooling equipment to fill the dead space they all of sudden realize they have. Cookie cutter builds with cookie cutter loops. Dare to be different I say.
> 
> /rant


Dont worry my friend, this is not planning for the end stage, for now i just want to get a simpe soft tube loop going that will look good, but hold me over until im ready to do acrylic near the end of the build, which will be anything but ordinary, cookie cutter, average, whatever you want to call it, i have a really cool loop planned for the final build and im sure it'll make you go " wow i havent seen that before







" but for now i want to get a quick soft tubing run going so i can use the build, while i work on the build. I didnt get the sth10 just to go bigger because i can, in the end you will see i will be needing that space


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> While I"m still new to this was curious if anyone had any experience w/ this or knowledge on the latest models or if I should just stick to EK FC Acrylic LED (Nickle) blocks?
> 
> Thanks for reading and for any input you may have. Learning tons here!


LunaP check out this Titan block roundup by Stren, he chats about active VRM cooling and the temps for each block.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Heys guys back again,i just hit 57c while running metro last light and the outside temp is 30c but there is no way its not hotter both outside and inside,i'm thinking i should never really hit this kind of temps on water i could be wrong,however if for whatever reasons these temps are too high and i thing it is,because i have hit 56c with 39c outside even tho today feels like 40c....What can i do to make temps better because its just the beginning of summer now so its gonna get alot more humid and even hotter than it is now....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Heys guys back again,i just hit 57c while running metro last light and the outside temp is 30c but there is no way its not hotter both outside and inside,i'm thinking i should never really hit this kind of temps on water i could be wrong,however if for whatever reasons these temps are too high and i thing it is,because i have hit 56c with 39c outside even tho today feels like 40c....What can i do to make temps better because its just the beginning of summer now so its gonna get alot more humid and even hotter than it is now....


It is on the higher side but good.

You need to know the temp in the room with the PC in it.

If you have AC on, it might only be 20-24 celsius.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> It is on the higher side but good.
> 
> You need to know the temp in the room with the PC in it.
> 
> If you have AC on, it might only be 20-24 celsius.


Its hot if you lean on the pillows without the room fan on you will start sweating and i'm shirtless,no ac in this unit...I wont be able to lift my pc for atleast another month or two and i know this weather is just the tip of the heat-berg....I'm just curious to know why the sudden high temps from my rig and what i can/should do to remedy it....


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Heys guys back again,i just hit 57c while running metro last light and the outside temp is 30c but there is no way its not hotter both outside and inside,i'm thinking i should never really hit this kind of temps on water i could be wrong,however if for whatever reasons these temps are too high and i thing it is,because i have hit 56c with 39c outside even tho today feels like 40c....What can i do to make temps better because its just the beginning of summer now so its gonna get alot more humid and even hotter than it is now....


What do you mean it not hotter both inside and outside?

Its 35C in my room right now. Depending on what speed you are running the fans then water up to 15C above room temp would not be unusual with two GPU's, The GPU's will normally be around 10 -12C above water temp. So these temps don't seem strange. What is sudden about it though?

Changing your top radiator to intake will help a little with water temps though.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> What do you mean it not hotter both inside and outside?
> 
> Its 35C in my room right now. Depending on what speed you are running the fans then water up to 15C above room temp would not be unusual with two GPU's, The GPU's will normally be around 10 -12C above water temp. So these temps don't seem strange. What is sudden about it though?
> 
> Changing your top radiator to intake will help a little with water temps though.


Sorry i meant to say its hotter inside the house and also outside,not the 30c degree they say it is....Sudden mean i only break 50c when the weather is in the high 30's not the lows like it is now,if only there was a way to change my fan config without removing my rads/pulling down my loop....So are you say with how hot it is today that my temps are normal or still abit too high....? Top fans are running at 1600 rpm and the bottom rad fans 1st set (gelid wings) full speed at about 1500/1600 2nd set corsair quiet editions at 1400 rpm....


----------



## brandon6199




----------



## NYMD

One quick one...




OK, two.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


WIAOWWWWW....HNNGGGG..!!!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Look at the amazing corrosion on these 1 month old EK nickel blocks


----------



## kanaks

What kind of coolant did you use? different metals at the loop?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Look at the amazing corrosion on these 1 month old EK nickel blocks


That is so disappointing.

What is the fix? Don't run multiple metals if you don't have to? So if you have copper in the loop or use a copper fungicide don't also use a silver coil?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> That is so disappointing.
> 
> What is the fix? Don't run multiple metals if you don't have to? So if you have copper in the loop or use a copper fungicide don't also use a silver coil?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> What kind of coolant did you use? different metals at the loop?


Running a 480 Monsta copper rad, EK Supreme Elite nickel block(no corrosion on it) 2 Titan Nickel blocks, MCP 655 PUmp, and BP 250 Z Tank, Swiftech Brass compression fittings. Distilled water and 2 drops of dead water.

EDIT: No Silver Coil


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> That is so disappointing.
> 
> What is the fix? Don't run multiple metals if you don't have to? So if you have copper in the loop or use a copper fungicide don't also use a silver coil?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> What kind of coolant did you use? different metals at the loop?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Running a 480 Monsta copper rad, EK Supreme Elite nickel block(no corrosion on it) 2 Titan Nickel blocks, MCP 655 PUmp, and BP 250 Z Tank, Swiftech Brass compression fittings. Distilled water and 2 drops of dead water.
> 
> EDIT: No Silver Coil
Click to expand...

Contact the EK support team,they will take care of you.

PHN biocide by any chance?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Contact the EK support team,they will take care of you.
> 
> *PHN biocide by any chance?*


He wrote in the post above that he used "2 drops of dead water".
'Dead Water' is a blue copper sulfate biocide just like PT Nuke afaik.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Contact the EK support team,they will take care of you.
> 
> PHN biocide by any chance?


I'm gonna call frozenPU in the morning. I used DeadWater for biocide.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Contact the EK support team,they will take care of you.
> 
> *PHN biocide by any chance?*
> 
> 
> 
> He wrote in the post above that he used "2 drops of dead water".
> 'Dead Water' is a blue copper sulfate biocide just like PT Nuke afaik.
Click to expand...

I dont use Dead Water so im unaware if there is a PHN version or not.

That block need to go back either way.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont use Dead Water so im unaware if there is a PHN version or not.
> 
> That block need to go back either way.


both blocks are the same. they have corrosion on the same spots.


----------



## Ragsters

What do you guys think? Should I make the tube that goes from the CPU block to the GPU block a little longer? I think it might look better if the tube goes out a little more perpendicular out of the CPU block before it starts heading to the GPU block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont use Dead Water so im unaware if there is a PHN version or not.
> 
> That block need to go back either way.
> 
> 
> 
> both blocks are the same. they have corrosion on the same spots.
Click to expand...

Get them gone and reconsider your GPU block manufacturer,identical issues on 2 separate components for me indicate a manufacturing issue that a simple swap wont cure...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get them gone and reconsider your GPU block manufacturer,identical issues on 2 separate components for me indicate a manufacturing issue that a simple swap wont cure...


Exactly my thoughts. Will try to get full copper replacements.


----------



## szeged

this is what i guess ill be going with in the sth10 for now until i get all the acrylic in and planned out for that



not including the ram/mobo in the soft tube loop because primochill tube doesnt like to play nice with small bends lol.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Guys i know this is the wrong place to post but my gpu is on 99% load whilst idling on desktop. Ive used driver sweeper and re installed nV drivers. All 3 bios on my are fine. Is there something else i can try? Hope to get it fixed as i need to use it for my exam..!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Guys i know this is the wrong place to post but my gpu is on 99% load whilst idling on desktop. Ive used driver sweeper and re installed nV drivers. All 3 bios on my are fine. Is there something else i can try? Hope to get it fixed as i need to use it for my exam..!!!


try asking in the evga classified owners club, you have a better chance of a more accurate response there.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> try asking in the evga classified owners club, you have a better chance of a more accurate response there.


Only 2 pple have a 770 there ._.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> That is so disappointing.
> 
> What is the fix? Don't run multiple metals if you don't have to? So if you have copper in the loop or use a copper fungicide don't also use a silver coil?


I've read, and been told not to use a silver coil when there is a decent amount of nickel in your loop. For safety, I think it's best to just use copper and brass with an all in one fluid solution such as mayhems clear. Avoid water die if you can. If you do want to use water and coil, avoid nickel, and place the coil in the Res so it's away from any copper you may have (Reduce risk of red plague).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> That is so disappointing.
> 
> What is the fix? Don't run multiple metals if you don't have to? So if you have copper in the loop or use a copper fungicide don't also use a silver coil?
> 
> 
> 
> I've read, and been told not to use a silver coil when there is a decent amount of nickel in your loop. For safety, I think it's best to just use copper and brass with an all in one fluid solution such as mayhems clear. Avoid water die if you can. If you do want to use water and coil, avoid nickel, and place the coil in the Res so it's away from any copper you may have (Reduce risk of red plague).
Click to expand...

Silver is fine with nickel plated products as long as the nickel is perfectly plated,its only when there are pores in the nickel allowing the nickel and copper to form a galvanic cell.
I can only recommend Watercool blocks as it stands right now if you choose to use silver as a biocide. AC used to be on that list but the blocks a few pages back have made me rethink them as something i can say is good.

Depends on how AC deal with that RMA before i can recommend them again.


----------



## raikki52

Hi everyone

Finish this morning


----------



## Aftermath2006

Quick update on My AC blocks got a message from Shoggy as well as an email and there going to send me new blocks as of now will update again when i here anything else


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raikki52*


That's sooo cute


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Exactly my thoughts. Will try to get full copper replacements.


What's with the recent spurt in EK nickel corrosion again? Makes me worried about my own motherboard blocks now- no copper option available so I had to go with nickel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What size tubing are you running? Only 13 more REP now!


lol thanks for the rep. I run 3/4" x 1/2"


----------



## skupples

Distilled & deionized water will eat your nickel. Period. It needs anticorrosion coolant. I derped up all my nickel blocks. 7onths of water and silver. The nickel is basically gone in the CPU block... This is user error in my story not EKs fault.

Seems copper sulphate additive is a waste of time when you have
Massive copper rads


----------



## rickyman0319

is that true Distilled water can eat nickel waterblock? cause I got EK cpu wateblock. I also got Alphcool rad. is that okay or not?


----------



## Jakusonfire

If people don't use some sort of corrosion inhibitor then they run the risk of having to go through the hassle of getting new blocks. It would be nice to just blame a company but as was mentioned earlier, since Aquacomputer has started making see through blocks we have started to see the same sort of reports.
Most people rarely if ever open their blocks so it is the clear ones that get reported.

There is a reason that the manufacturers recommend it.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is that true Distilled water can eat nickel waterblock? cause I got EK cpu wateblock. I also got Alphcool rad. is that okay or not?


Distilled water cannot eat anything. The Copper ions which the water picks up from the rad can in some circumstances cause problems with the nickel. Copper and nickel in a loop with water will always react however most of the time you will not notice it and it will not have any effect.


----------



## rickyman0319

cool, that mean I am okay for now. I guess I should not mix the metal.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is that true Distilled water can eat nickel waterblock? cause I got EK cpu wateblock. I also got Alphcool rad. is that okay or not?


This is what iv'e read on multiple coolant guides, & my chemist cousin confirmed it last night. So, anyone saying i'm wrong please provide counter-evidence. The theory is that it's due to the low dissolved solid content of distilled/deionized water.I can link other sources of the information & get my chemist cousin to provide research as well if people like.

http://www.ekwb.com/news/142/19/

http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/

the moral of the story is that using pure distilled water (even on copper) is bad news.

The theory that these companies are "trying to sell snake oil" is becoming less & less true in my eyes after all the research iv'e been doing.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This is what iv'e read on multiple coolant guides, & my chemist cousin confirmed it last night. So, anyone saying i'm wrong please provide counter-evidence. The theory is that it's due to the low dissolved solid content of distilled/deionized water.


I'm not saying the nickel won't be attacked, I'm saying the copper ions picked up by the water (and yes, Ni ions will be picked up) will react with the nickel and ionize it further. So if you ran a loop with nickel eveything (including rad, I know it's not possible but for sake of argument) You wouldn't have a problem just like if you run an all copper loop.


----------



## DaaQ

So we should "prove" to you, but your "proof" is hearsay from your chemist cousin?? Really?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> So we should "prove" to you, but your "proof" is hearsay from your chemist cousin?? Really?


two links of conformation is hearsay?

I can find more if you like.

Nickel blocks need extra care, distilled water & anti-fungal is not enough. They will die.





plastic free tubing. Distilled water changed every 2 months.

Look, i'm just trying to help prevent people from going through what iv'e gone through in the past 24 hours. My beast build is now on hold due to my lack of knowledge on the subject while new blocks come in from EK. Distilled water (by it's self) will kill your nickel.


----------



## RickRockerr

Backplate for my 670









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> two links of conformation is hearsay?
> 
> I can find more if you like.
> 
> Nickel blocks need extra care, distilled water & anti-fungal is not enough. They will die.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> plastic free tubing. Distilled water changed every 2 months.


You saying that YOUR CHEMIST COUSIN confirms it, that is hearsay. You can link all you want. You can run whatever you want in your loop or whatever you can talk others into running. I don't care. I was shocked you would come at it like that. Like others need to prove to you for something to be valid.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Backplate for my 670
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


SWEET!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> You saying that YOUR CHEMIST COUSIN confirms it, that is hearsay. You can link all you want. You can run whatever you want in your loop or whatever you can talk others into running. I don't care. I was shocked you would come at it like that. Like others need to prove to you for something to be valid.


Yes, you are correct. That's why I added i'll get him to write it down for me w/ proof. Along with two other links. After work i'll publish even more confirmation of the point that distilled water by it's self will eat your nickel due to the low dissolved solids content, thus leaving it hungry for your metals. All i'm asking for is the person who just said it's not true to give some sort of basis on why it's not true. The going theory I Have right now from these guides is that "water with low dissolved content will seek out your metal in warm water environments."

Have a good day. Must get to work. Feel free to expose your self to the same disaster I put my self through believing the advice that distilled water is just fine & that it's all EK's fault if the blocks fail.


----------



## p33k

Ugh... I'm nearing the end of my leak testing and realized I have my in and out reversed on my raystorm cpu block. Do I need to drain and reverse the block? Or would it be OK for a month until some other parts arrive?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

I'm not denying that nickel is eroded when using only distilled water in a loop. I'm also not denying that Ni2+ ions are picked up by water. I do say this is not the MAIN cause of corrosion (like many things is chemistry I believe this is a mix of two factors).

If this was the main case of corrosion then copper would also devolve, which we do not see(although I'm sure a microscope would). Also what happens when you drop a nickel(actually only contains 25% nickel by mass) in Di water? It certainly doesn't dissolve (although theoretical it will, just in a very very long time and if you are using your same blocks for 10s of years...).

So if the water picking up ions is not the MAIN cause, something else must be up. Looking at the activity series Nickel is Higher than copper. That means a Nickel ion will replace a Copper ion in a reaction.

So if you have a solution with a bunch of copper ions (which where picked up by the water due to low dissolved solids content) the the Cu ions with try to replace the Nickel plating. This will lead to more Ni ions being dissolved. And the Plating peeling and pitting.


----------



## DaaQ

Here I'll give a link as well, good reading too. This also describes what happens to make nickel flake. http://www.artisticplating.net/corrosion.php

There are just so many variables in pc watercooling, that it is not accurate to say, that X metal and Y metal, or Z liquid with ABC additive will cause this result. The best thing anyone can do is to know what is inside their rig, and take action to minimize an undesired result.

Here we have ASUS using anodized aluminum as a waterblock, sure it would be fine if the anodized layer does not scratch off as you tighten your fitting into it. Or if their anodizing process was infallible. But is it?
All of these manufactures are trying to get our money, they will say whatever the marketers come up with to achieve that goal.

DI or distilled, will always at the atomic level, try and gain additional ions/electrons. This is why it does not stay electrically unconductive and is why most of the old school watercoolers say to flush and refill every 6-12 months.
One other thing, the SEP table or the "galvanic series" charts that are pulled out every time the mixed metal/ my block has corroded debate surfaces, are based on the electron potential of sea water. SO unless one is using salt water as their coolant, the voltage potentials will be somewhat different from those charts.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> You saying that YOUR CHEMIST COUSIN confirms it, that is hearsay. You can link all you want. You can run whatever you want in your loop or whatever you can talk others into running. I don't care. I was shocked you would come at it like that. Like others need to prove to you for something to be valid.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you are correct. That's why I added i'll get him to write it down for me w/ proof. Along with two other links. After work i'll publish even more confirmation of the point that distilled water by it's self will eat your nickel due to the low dissolved solids content, thus leaving it hungry for your metals. All i'm asking for is the person who just said it's not true to give some sort of basis on why it's not true. The going theory I Have right now from these guides is that "water with low dissolved content will seek out your metal in warm water environments."
> 
> Have a good day. Must get to work. Feel free to expose your self to the same disaster I put my self through believing the advice that distilled water is just fine & that it's all EK's fault if the blocks fail.
Click to expand...

Good for you,however Dr Jake Hicks PHD Chem says different. The erosion rate is so low that you wouldnt see the effects for several years. Not the months/weeks that these fails are occurring in. Also,my Watercool blocks are still pristine after 1 and a half years of running DI and biocide.

http://www.techmetals.com/InternetArticles/Corrosion%20Resistance%20of%20Electroless%20Nickel%20Coatings.pdf

http://www.twincityplating.com/resources/29Corrosion%20Resistance%20of%20High%20Phos%20Electroless%20Nickel%20Coatings.pdf

Fabricator recommending Nickel plated SS for DI water tanks..

http://hghouston.com/resources/technical-faq/corrosion/316ss-and-deionized-water-corrosion.aspx

Less soapbox and more science please.


----------



## skupples

So much contradiction everywhere. Must mean these companies are using terrible but plating techniques. when you look at it from that light and explains why these companies recommend to use their snake oil. They know the nicholas terrible and the only way to prevent accelerated decay is to use coolant

speech to text from Nexus


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> *So much contradiction everywhere.* Must mean these companies are using terrible but plating techniques. when you look at it from that light and explains why these companies recommend to use their snake oil. They know the nicholas terrible and the only way to prevent accelerated decay is to use coolant
> 
> speech to text from Nexus


Not at all,its very simple. A properly applied Nickel plate is nigh on immune to corrosion. An improperly applied Nickel plate opens up the substrate to attack thru the pores in the plate strike.

14µm is the recommended nickel plate thickness for corrosion resistance,I will bet my last pound that blocks are not getting half that thickness in plate.

EK,if memory serves,had 4µm when RRT tested the blocks


----------



## skupples

and what do you think about the gold plated blocks same failure? if it's being done by the same company that the chances of it also being too thin are great.

Speech to text from nexus


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> LunaP check out this Titan block roundup by Stren, he chats about active VRM cooling and the temps for each block.


Yeah I finally found it and a few pointed it out , thanks, I'm going EK I think, EK FC Acrylic Nickel, unless told otherwise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What's with the recent spurt in EK nickel corrosion again? Makes me worried about my own motherboard blocks now- no copper option available so I had to go with nickel.
> lol thanks for the rep. I run 3/4" x 1/2"


Lol I can't find any Nickel and I'm faced w/ only buying Copper atm PPC has copper blocks 3 left.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not at all,its very simple. A properly applied Nickel plate is nigh on immune to corrosion. An improperly applied Nickel plate opens up the substrate to attack thru the pores in the plate strike.
> 
> 14µm is the recommended nickel plate thickness for corrosion resistance,I will bet my last pound that blocks are not getting half that thickness in plate.
> 
> EK,if memory serves,had 4µm when RRT tested the blocks


SO yeah after all this am I still ok to grab EK FC Nickel blocks or should I just go w/ Copper? From what I've read most RAD's have brass inside them at some point.

I honestly don't know and this is my first build so yeah, I've been reading all the information too, and find it pretty interesting, and hopefully if I have to take Chemistry as an elective I'll use this as my Senior project


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> and what do you think about the gold plated blocks same failure? if it's being done by the same company that the chances of it also being too thin are great.
> 
> Speech to text from nexus


Gold is not plated directly on copper as the copper migrates thru the gold,there is normally a Nickel strike first then Gold on top.
Gold on its own makes a rubbish plating material as its porous.

LunaP,Nickel is fine,there are a few incidents and it can be hit or miss but the percentages are firmly in the 'its good' catagory


----------



## szeged

lets all just use aluminum and copper blocks, nickle problem solved


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Gold is not plated directly on copper as the copper migrates thru the gold,there is normally a Nickel strike first then Gold on top.
> Gold on its own makes a rubbish plating material as its porous.
> 
> LunaP,Nickel is fine,there are a few incidents and it can be hit or miss but the percentages are firmly in the 'its good' catagory


Appreciate it. Now to actually find 2 blocks lol.


----------



## skupples

Koolancr also stares to never use silver with nickel.


----------



## brandon6199

Can anyone tell me if I'm going to have issues with the M3 screw heads that are holding the EK block to the pcb make contact with the EVGA backplate? It's not going to short anything out, is it? I used the little plastic washers that came with the EK block under each screw, but I just want to be sure...

EDIT: See below for diagram.




Is this going to be an issue?


----------



## skupples

sounds like to eK a is going to accept my RMA and send me copper blocks in exchange. too bad I had new ones overnighted to me last night so I guess these will be going on the market place brand new in box

silly speech to text update has broken the ability to edit before posting damn you google


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Koolancr also stares to never use silver with nickel.


And?

They are the only one now as EK dropped that clause of their RMA as they know its not true (even after paying for external testing). Just so happens Koolance added that clause not long after EK did after their plating problems.


----------



## Aftermath2006

So AC is sending me new blocks shipping first thing tomorrow thats some good customer service i must say


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> So AC is sending me new blocks shipping first thing tomorrow thats some good customer service i must say


Excellent news,I did hope Sven would do you right. Hopefully that was a one off incident....


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey all, I'm replacing the tubing on my H60 and h110 (theres a thread on it, i'm well aware of the futility of the mod, its entirely for aesthetics), and was wondering what's better looking, blue tubing or blue dye. I need a dark blue, too, and not sure if a dye exists for that, to match my Z87X-UD3H, electric blue paracord, and other dark blue of the build.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> I would check out Mayhems Dyes, you can really get stuff dark with them.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18041/ex-liq-358/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Dark_Blue.html?tl=c103s185b217
> 
> Also I have the PrimoChill LRT Brilliant Blue UV tubing and I must say it is pretty dark blue, I am also goign to be running Mayhems UV Blue liquid through with some of their blue dye to darken it up, as I want to be able to see blue liquid in my Photon res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17869/ex-tub-1601/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_716ID_x_58_OD_-_Brilliant_UV_Blue_PFLEXA-758-B.html?tl=c99s809b46
Click to expand...

Interesting, thanks. I was looking into Primochill, they seem to have some dark blue tubing that looks great. I really have never seen anyone use Mayhem dark blue, I wish I could see pics of it in action.

I got a simple question, can I just put 90* barbs on a swiftech micro res v2? I was thinking these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15697/ex-tub-1240/Alphacool_G14_Thread_90_Rotary_12_ID_Barbs_-_Deep_Black.html?tl=g30c407s1577#blank
Alphacool deep black. only black, smooth looking ones i see for 1/4 ID tubing.

The 2 closed loops I have, the H110 and H60 2013, mix metals (cu block + alu rad insides, I believe), so I need something for anti-corrosion. I've been recommended the swiftech hydrx pm2 blue fluid, though if I could add mayhem to it that'd be cool


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raikki52*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> Finish this morning


Reminds me of a supercharger sticking out of a car hood.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Ugh... I'm nearing the end of my leak testing and realized I have my in and out reversed on my raystorm cpu block. Do I need to drain and reverse the block? Or would it be OK for a month until some other parts arrive?


I ran mine backwards for a couple of weeks until I put new parts in and the temps were pretty much the same both ways.


----------



## wermad

I just pulled my blocks (pending new mb). You guys are making me wanna open one up to inspect







.


----------



## Striker36

you probably should if not just to clean them out since you have some time.


----------



## Rokku

I am new here, and want to get started into custom water cooling. I have no clue what I need. So if anyone can make me a list of what I would need to water cool my cpu, and one gpu in a NZXT Switch 810.
I don't know which 360 kit to start with from XSPC on frozencpu. So can someone link me what I will need please, and thanks.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g59/c683/s2175/list/p1/XSPC_Products-XSPC_Water_Cooling_Kits-XSPC_Kits_360-Page1.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rokku*
> 
> I am new here, and want to get started into custom water cooling. I have no clue what I need. So if anyone can make me a list of what I would need to water cool my cpu, and one gpu in a NZXT Switch 810.
> I don't know which 360 kit to start with from XSPC on frozencpu. So can someone link me what I will need please, and thanks.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g59/c683/s2175/list/p1/XSPC_Products-XSPC_Water_Cooling_Kits-XSPC_Kits_360-Page1.html


If you are going to go with an XSPC kit, get one with a D5 pump, not one of their 750s. A single D5 is all you'll need, and whether you get one with a bay res or their Photon tube res / D5 combo is totally up to you and what you have room for in your case. And I'd also suggest you think about replacing the tubing that comes with it with some Primochill Advanced LRT so you can avoid plasticizer issues. Otherwise they are pretty solid kits that can definitely save you some coin over buying everything separately.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just pulled my blocks (pending new mb). You guys are making me wanna open one up to inspect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If you already pulled out hell yes open it and inspect those blocks...Anyway good news AC and EK are honoring and replacing the GPU blocks.


----------



## VSG

Has anyone had this happen with motherboard blocks? EK only had them in nickel so I had no choice.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Has anyone had this happen with motherboard blocks? EK only had them in nickel so I had no choice.


You are worrying over nothing,even in the slim chance it does happen,you are covered for RMA...EK are very fast to deal with any potential issues now.
Crack them every 6 months and check.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you already pulled out hell yes open it and inspect those blocks...Anyway good news AC and EK are honoring and replacing the GPU blocks.


Popped open one of my blocks. Looks good. Some staining from the previous owners loop and some discoloration in the nickel (can be buffed/polished off) but no signs of nickel degradation







.

Its a pita for these Ltg blocks to be disassembled so I'll just assume the others are fine too







.


----------



## Rokku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you are going to go with an XSPC kit, get one with a D5 pump, not one of their 750s. A single D5 is all you'll need, and whether you get one with a bay res or their Photon tube res / D5 combo is totally up to you and what you have room for in your case. And I'd also suggest you think about replacing the tubing that comes with it with some Primochill Advanced LRT so you can avoid plasticizer issues. Otherwise they are pretty solid kits that can definitely save you some coin over buying everything separately.


will I only need one rad?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rokku*
> 
> will I only need one rad?


A 360/420 rad should be enough for just a cpu and gpu,but i would make use of the space in the switch and add another 240....


----------



## WebsterXC

Ideally you should be a 360mm worth of rad space for 1 CPU and 1 GPU. You could get by with 240 though.


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Ideally you should be a 360mm worth of rad space for 1 CPU and 1 GPU. You could get by with 240 though.


what do you think about 2 cpu and 1 gpu? (770)?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> what do you think about 2 cpu and 1 gpu? (770)?


Atleast 480mm of radiator space....
(120mm X Number of Blocks) +( 120mm )


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Atleast 480mm of radiator space....
> (120mm X Number of Blocks) +( 120mm )


hmm I guess I would have to fit my 240 in somewhere.... it is possible... (have a 360 in atm)


----------



## WebsterXC

Like I said before, you could probably get by with only a 360, but your temperatures may be less than stellar under load. The extra 120mm of radiator space can make a huge difference.


----------



## skupples

home made radiator flushing unit w/ 1/4* HP sump pump. It's amazing the stuff already coming out of rads that have already been through the dance.


----------



## Alex132

i just shook my rad before install ing, gonna clean it out soon i guess.

wanna see what 1 year of leaving it on w/o touching it has done


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sounds like to eK a is going to accept my RMA and send me copper blocks in exchange. too bad I had new ones overnighted to me last night so I guess these will be going on the market place brand new in box
> 
> silly speech to text update has broken the ability to edit before posting damn you google


Sweet, I'll try to get Copper blocks too.

Gonna Swap out my tubing while im at it. I wanna do copper tubing, can anybody recommend some fittings? I was planning on buying the copper tube from the hardware store.


----------



## IT Diva

I wish EK would make a "left handed" dual parallel or serial bridge, the DIY method was a PITA.

On the brighter side, it worked out pretty well, though a need to find just the right fitting, or get my modded one plated.

With quad GPUs on 2 loops, the upper 2 are on one loop using the top mounted rad, with the lower 2 on another loop using the bottom mounted rad.

I wanted a connection solution that would help add some rigidity like you get from the links and bridge system, plus I like how it looks when it's all clear, but I needed to have inlet ports facing the front, and the top GPU's outlet facing up with the lower GPU's outlet facing down.

What I really needed was a left handed dual bridge, and so I cut the left side off a quad semi parallel bridge and did a little tweaking.

The newly made bridge is on the left, with a regular CSQ dual on the righ.

The little part in front is the cut-off bit.

I'll polish up the right one, and work out a little top trim plate that will lock the 2 blocks together to get the same rigidity that a quad would have.

Necessity, . . . . the mother of frustration invention . . . .









Darlene


----------



## Ragsters

Anyone have an EK case badge they can throw in the mail for me for like a $1? One of my blocks has a badge that is really badly scratched.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> i just shook my rad before install ing, gonna clean it out soon i guess.
> 
> wanna see what 1 year of leaving it on w/o touching it has done


you may be surprised how much filth I got out of my rad. The bottom of the filter looks like a gold miners pan. I'll post pictures & what not tomorrow once iv'e done all three... Got the idea from titan club member, who linked a west coast mobs video of it. I'm tired of half assing stuff. Was time to take it up a notch. Best thing about the submerged pumps is that they slowly heat the water, so after an hour the water is nice & toasty.


----------



## VSG

I didn't even know EK blocks came with badges, none of my blocks had any. Also, left handed terminals would be a godsend for my current build.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I didn't even know EK blocks came with badges, none of my blocks had any. Also, left handed terminals would be a godsend for my current build.


I was referring to these.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18967/ex-blc-1420/EK_Logo_Aluminum_Badges_-_Silver_5_Pack_EK-Badge_5_pcs.html


----------



## BradleyW

I know this sounds silly and don't laugh but, do I need a 2 slot WC GPU fitment or 3 slot...... based on this shot?


----------



## VSG

It looks like you need a 4 slot terminal actually, best off buying a triple connector and a blank.


----------



## Roxycon

They should make the serial bridges with four inlets/ outlets though, two on the top and two on the bottom.. Would make my rig a lot more tidy


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It looks like you need a 4 slot terminal actually, best off buying a triple connector and a blank.


A blank?
Can you pick one out from here for me please? It needs to be G1/4".
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/
Thank you.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> A blank?
> Can you pick one out from here for me please? It needs to be G1/4".
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/
> Thank you.


I'm pretty sure you only need a triple slot connector.

Something like this:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=34042

Look at the picture in the description.

I use these Swiftech Lok-Seals and they are great.


----------



## VSG

I thought he wanted a Terminal-like setup in which case the EK 3-slot would not fit. But ya- those variable length SLI fittings work nicely for situations where you aren't really sure.


----------



## joejoe69

Neptune gets a refresh...again.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'm pretty sure you only need a triple slot connector.
> 
> Something like this:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=34042
> 
> Look at the picture in the description.
> 
> I use these Swiftech Lok-Seals and they are great.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I thought he wanted a Terminal-like setup in which case the EK 3-slot would not fit. But ya- those variable length SLI fittings work nicely for situations where you aren't really sure.


Thank you both +1


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thank you both +1


No problem









So what kind of GPU connector are you looking for?

P.S. YES!!! My second flame has arrived!!!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune gets a refresh...again.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You need a 40oz. sittin next to that big boy!


----------



## iGameInverted

Add me







. More pictures are and details about the rig are here:

Build Log


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I know this sounds silly and don't laugh but, do I need a 2 slot WC GPU fitment or 3 slot...... based on this shot?


What motherboard is that? Is it the "z77" format? Where it's PCI-E, 1x 1x(or nothing/battery) PCI-E? If so, you want dual, triple slot.








if it's this format (most likely) you want dual, 3-slot.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What motherboard is that? Is it the "z77" format? Where it's PCI-E, 1x 1x(or nothing/battery) PCI-E? If so, you want dual, triple slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if it's this format (most likely) you want dual, 3-slot.


It's an AMD board. Z77 is Intel.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You need a 40oz. sittin next to that big boy!


Colt 45 & two zigzags!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I know this sounds silly and don't laugh but, do I need a 2 slot WC GPU fitment or 3 slot...... based on this shot?


That's actually a 4 slot


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What motherboard is that? Is it the "z77" format? Where it's PCI-E, 1x 1x(or nothing/battery) PCI-E? If so, you want dual, triple slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if it's this format (most likely) you want dual, 3-slot.


It looks like a 3 slot, but its actually a 4 slot. It fooled me too, i ordered a 3 slot EK SLI bridge and ended up being too short.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Colt 45 & two zigzags!


Word!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That's actually a 4 slot


Is it? How do you figure? If he had blocks on it would be exactly the same as this picture which is labeled "3-slot spacing". Not saying your wrong just wondering how you see 4 slot spacing? He has 3 empty PCI slots in between the cards (if he had blocks on) just like the picture.



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=34042


----------



## LiquidHaus

All these pictures and stories of gpu blocks going bad, and not ONE story about Watercool's Heatkiller blocks going bad.

That is why I recommend the Heatkiller blocks whenever I can. Plus they look the best.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raikki52*


This right here makes me want to snag a test tench platform. I love it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune gets a refresh...again.


I'm digging this so far, keep it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iGameInverted*


Love the red and gold. Nice execution on the color scheme.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> It's an AMD board. Z77 is Intel.


I realize that z77 is an intel chipset. The spacing is has been labeled "z77" on lots of resellers. The information should still be correct. Slotting is standardized. If it matches that picture (with or w/o the 1x slots) the dual 3-slot is what is needed. Hard to tell with those massive GPU's, tis why I asked what mobo it be.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Is it? How do you figure? If he had blocks on it would be exactly the same as this picture which is labeled "3-slot spacing". Not saying your wrong just wondering how you see 4 slot spacing? He has 3 empty PCI slots in between the cards (if he had blocks on) just like the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=34042


These are sure fire way of a non-fail, no matter what the spacing may be.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> All these pictures and stories of gpu blocks going bad, and not ONE story about Watercool's Heatkiller blocks going bad.
> 
> That is why I recommend the Heatkiller blocks whenever I can. Plus they look the best.
> This right here makes me want to snag a test tench platform. I love it!
> I'm digging this so far, keep it up.
> Love the red and gold. Nice execution on the color scheme.


I hope my XSPC copper blocks won't be a problem. That test bench is pretty sick!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> These are sure fire way of a non-fail, no matter what the spacing may be.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Love mine


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I hope my XSPC copper blocks won't be a problem. That test bench is pretty sick!


Copper is ez-pz... I was going to go with the new XSPC blocks, but couldn't find much information on them w/ the new bigger (than EK) VRM channel. So, I went with what I know works minus the nickel + some coolant this time. New blocks will be here tomorrow, will post some sexy pictures after twerk.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Is it? How do you figure? If he had blocks on it would be exactly the same as this picture which is labeled "3-slot spacing". Not saying your wrong just wondering how you see 4 slot spacing? He has 3 empty PCI slots in between the cards (if he had blocks on) just like the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=34042


I have his exact same board, the 3 Slot fittings were too short. Had to get a 4 Slot.




This is the EK 4 slot bridge i'm using:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-4-slot-2-pcs.html

EDIT: forgot to answer your question lol

Basically you, you start counting after slot 1. for example if the first card is installed on the top slot, when counting, slot 2 becomes slot 1, slot 3 becomes slot 2 ans so forth. Way to pick our brains lol


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I realize that z77 is an intel chipset. The spacing is has been labeled "z77" on lots of resellers. The information should still be correct. Slotting is standardized. If it matches that picture (with or w/o the 1x slots) the dual 3-slot is what is needed. Hard to tell with those massive GPU's, tis why I asked what mobo it be.
> These are sure fire way of a non-fail, no matter what the spacing may be.


Sorry man. I wasn't trying to insult your intelligence. I figured you probably knew that. Just threw that in there carelessly.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Sorry man. I wasn't trying to insult your intelligence. I figured you probably knew that. Just threw that in there carelessly.


np, no offense taken... If that is the board, that is DEFINITELY quad-slot. Accept that with water blocks he could go with the 1st 2 pci-e slots, unless #2 is 8x only or something.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Copper is ez-pz... I was going to go with the new XSPC blocks, but couldn't find much information on them w/ the new bigger (than EK) VRM channel. So, I went with what I know works minus the nickel + some coolant this time. New blocks will be here tomorrow, will post some sexy pictures after twerk.


Cool. I can't wait to get these bad boys put on my gpu's and cpu. Looking forward to some pics after "twerk". lol


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I have his exact same board, the 3 Slot fittings were too short. Had to get a 4 Slot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the EK 4 slot bridge i'm using:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-4-slot-2-pcs.html


That's a good looking mobo. It'd look awesome with some ram blocks.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I have his exact same board, the 3 Slot fittings were too short. Had to get a 4 Slot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the EK 4 slot bridge i'm using:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-4-slot-2-pcs.html


Hmm very interesting. How does that work? Do different companies use different spacing for their GPU connectors? Because to me 3 slots in between two cards means 3 slot spacing. What exactly makes it need 4 slot spacing?








I'm officially in learning mode!


----------



## skupples

Hopefully Santa (girl) brings/buy's me a REAL camera for x-mas. It's literally the only thing I haven't purchased for my self this year. Top of the line camera w/ macro lens, YES PLEASE.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hmm very interesting. How does that work? Do different companies use different spacing for their GPU connectors? Because to me 3 slots in between two cards means 3 slot spacing. What exactly makes it need 4 slot spacing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm officially in learning mode!


Gonna copy and paste what I added to the post









EDIT: forgot to answer your question lol

Basically you, you start counting after slot 1. for example if the first card is installed on the top slot, when counting, slot 2 becomes slot 1, slot 3 becomes slot 2 ans so forth. Way to pick our brains lol


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Hopefully Santa (girl) brings/buy's me a REAL camera for x-mas. It's literally the only thing I haven't purchased for my self this year. Top of the line camera w/ macro lens, YES PLEASE.


lol I hear ya. I just ordered my wife a Canon EOS Rebel T3i which came in today. I bought it as a Xmas gift, but I'm itching to let her open it now so that maybe I can borrow it!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's a good looking mobo. It'd look awesome with some ram blocks.


Yeah, the board look great, but didn't allow me to overclock a 3930K or a 4930K past 4.3 with ridiculous amounts on volts. Since it did the same on both chips, I condemned the board and bought a new one, which should be here tomorrow with some new Ram sticks


----------



## wermad

Bridge/gpu-fitting manufacturers can use different terminology for the same thing. EK does a pretty good job as they give a mb slot illustration highlighting the slots that can be connect by the bridge.

edit:

quad bridge:


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> Gonna copy and paste what I added to the post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: forgot to answer your question lol
> 
> Basically you, you start counting after slot 1. for example if the first card is installed on the top slot, when counting, slot 2 becomes slot 1, slot 3 becomes slot 2 ans so forth. Way to pick our brains lol


I'm sorry, but I'm just a bit confused. In the picture that I showed the GPU's were exactly how he had his in the picture that he posted and Swiftech considered that 3-slot spacing. Why is that


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna copy and paste what I added to the post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: forgot to answer your question lol
> 
> Basically you, you start counting after slot 1. for example if the first card is installed on the top slot, when counting, slot 2 becomes slot 1, slot 3 becomes slot 2 ans so forth. Way to pick our brains lol


That's easy enough to understand. Thanks for posting this. I've learned something new.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'm sorry, but I'm just a bit confused. In the picture that I showed the GPU's were exactly how he had his in the picture that he posted and Swiftech considered that 3-slot spacing. Why is that


No idea, they might have made a mistake. Like I said this can get tricky. There are 3 slots in between the GPUs, but are technically 4 slots apart. I made the mistake of ordering 3 slot sli links, they were too short. Which reminds me, I should probably list them on the market place.


----------



## Dveight

Do any of you know where i can get water blocks for my asrock extreme6 mb?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dveight*
> 
> Do any of you know where i can get water blocks for my asrock extreme6 mb?


AMD or Intel?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> No idea, they might have made a mistake. Like I said this can get tricky. There are 3 slots in between the GPUs, but are technically 4 slots apart. I made the mistake of ordering 3 slot sli links, they were too short. Which reminds me, I should probably list them on the market place.


Hmm I've been using the Swiftech Lok-Seal Medium Extension Fitting (20-33mm Range) and had a leak before with them, but I was sure that it was because I broke one of the rubber gaskets inside of it (which I did). Could it be because I am using the wrong ones?

Here is my spacing:


and here are the links I'm using:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=33973

I don't think they are wrong I just want to check though.

Excuse the horrible loop. I'm redoing it as we speak and adding my third 7950







and no more barbs!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hmm I've been using the Swiftech Lok-Seal Medium Extension Fitting (20-33mm Range) and had a leak before with them, but I was sure that it was because I broke one of the rubber gaskets inside of it. Could it be because I am using the wrong ones?
> 
> Here is my spacing:
> 
> 
> and here are the links I'm using:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=33973
> 
> I don't think they are wrong I just want to check though.


Youre definitely using the right one. If you broke the seal, that's why it leaked. Did it leak while leak testing or while the system was running?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Fellas, i'm gonna try asking again, before making a new thread PLEASE HELP OUT! LOL

OK, I wanna re do my tubing, but this time I want to use 5/8 OD copper, but have no idea on which fittings to use. Any suggestions?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Youre definitely using the right one. If you broke the seal, that's why it leaked. Did it leak while leak testing or while the system was running?


It leaked while leak testing. I just received some new ones though along with a ton of other parts. My MM is finally going to have a nice looking loop after this rebuild. My build log is in my signature if you are interested!


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Fellas, i'm gonna try asking again, before making a new thread PLEASE HELP OUT! LOL
> 
> OK, I wanna re do my tubing, but this time I want to use 5/8 OD copper, but have no idea on which fittings to use. Any suggestions?


I wish I could help you out on that one but I have no clue honestly sorry I never ventured into copper fittings or thought about it so I never did research to find out I am sure one of these fine OCN members can assist though.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Fellas, i'm gonna try asking again, before making a new thread PLEASE HELP OUT! LOL
> 
> OK, I wanna re do my tubing, but this time I want to use 5/8 OD copper, but have no idea on which fittings to use. Any suggestions?


There are NO push to connect fittings that have BSPP(g) threading that also receive standard sizing. You would have to spend the extra money for metric sizing copper piping, as there are many options for push to connect fittings that do have BSPP(g) threading. Any standard sizing push to connect fittings have NPT threading, which is tapered and NOT the same.

That is how I would connect copper piping. However, many water cooling companies are providing inset fittings designed for acrylic tubing that have a simple o-ring to retain the tubing but I do not believe it the best way for copper piping.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Fellas, i'm gonna try asking again, before making a new thread PLEASE HELP OUT! LOL
> 
> OK, I wanna re do my tubing, but this time I want to use 5/8 OD copper, but have no idea on which fittings to use. Any suggestions?


Check out this thread by B Negative. http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101

Edit: This guy here managed to use Bitspower fittings with 12mm OD copper tubing.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1290477/build-log-800d-revision-3-copper-piping-completed#post_17865798


----------



## Belial

I have a few questions related to replacing the tubing on the h60 2013 and h110 (+ res)

* Can I put the alphacool 3/8 x 1/2 90* fittings on the swiftech micro res v2?

* I'd like to go for 'dark blue', and I need anti-corrossion due to the mixed cu + alu in the closed loops. I was thinking of either going blue tubing with either swiftech hydrx pm2 + mayhem blue dye, antifreeze (not sure which) + dark blue dye, or mayhem pastel blue + blue dye for 'dark blue' solid color. I can't find pics of dark blue on mayhem, or of swiftech hydrx pm2 in use.

Thanks!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I have a few questions related to replacing the tubing on the h60 2013 and h110 (+ res)
> 
> * Can I put the alphacool 3/8 x 1/2 90* fittings on the swiftech micro res v2?
> 
> * I'd like to go for 'dark blue', and I need anti-corrossion due to the mixed cu + alu in the closed loops. I was thinking of either going blue tubing with either swiftech hydrx pm2 + mayhem blue dye, antifreeze (not sure which) + dark blue dye, or mayhem pastel blue + blue dye for 'dark blue' solid color. I can't find pics of dark blue on mayhem, or of swiftech hydrx pm2 in use.
> 
> Thanks!


Hey I haven't seen you around here in a while! Hows life treating ya? For the Swiftech Mcro Res v2 you are going to need adapters. These ones:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimablg38tog.html

Can't help you with the dyes though


----------



## rickyman0319

what is the easiest way to put p/p fan with radiator in a top of the case?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what is the easiest way to put p/p fan with radiator in a top of the case?


What case?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Fellas, i'm gonna try asking again, before making a new thread PLEASE HELP OUT! LOL
> 
> OK, I wanna re do my tubing, but this time I want to use 5/8 OD copper, but have no idea on which fittings to use. Any suggestions?


This is a common topic in the acrylic bending 101 thread, may get more help there.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Fellas, i'm gonna try asking again, before making a new thread PLEASE HELP OUT! LOL
> 
> OK, I wanna re do my tubing, but this time I want to use 5/8 OD copper, but have no idea on which fittings to use. Any suggestions?


You'll have to special order fittings most likely. 5/8OD push fittings in a G1/4 thread don't exist as far as I know. That's a huge copper tube.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> You'll have to special order fittings most likely. 5/8OD push fittings in a G1/4 thread don't exist as far as I know. That's a huge copper tube.


That is one MASSIVE copper pipe, specially inside of a computer. Most of the copper builds I see use tubes that can't be bigger than 3/8s


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> You'll have to special order fittings most likely. 5/8OD push fittings in a G1/4 thread don't exist as far as I know. That's a huge copper tube.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That is one MASSIVE copper pipe, specially inside of a computer. Most of the copper builds I see use tubes that can't be bigger than 3/8s


That's only 15MM or so, not much bigger than 12MM OD copper pipe









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That's only 15MM or so, not much bigger than 12MM OD copper pipe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


25% greater diameter. 50% larger cross section area. That's more than not much bigger.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> You'll have to special order fittings most likely. 5/8OD push fittings in a G1/4 thread don't exist as far as I know. That's a huge copper tube.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That is one MASSIVE copper pipe, specially inside of a computer. Most of the copper builds I see use tubes that can't be bigger than 3/8s


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That's only 15MM or so, not much bigger than 12MM OD copper pipe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


1/2 Pipe it is, unless I can get a hold of a 13mm copper pipe.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 1/2 Pipe it is, unless I can get a hold of a 13mm copper pipe.


Like some one else said, I believe custom "compression" style fittings need to be acquired for metal piping. I look forward to your results!


----------



## waveaddict

Would it be alright to have a 90 fitting straight off the pump output?Would there be to much pressure / restriction?Maybe using this pump res. combo.


----------



## Dveight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> AMD or Intel?


intel an its not for my cpu i know where to get them.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Would it be alright to have a 90 fitting straight off the pump output?Would there be to much pressure / restriction?Maybe using this pump res. combo.


Flow is alright with my setup, and I'm doing just that.



I say go for it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Would it be alright to have a 90 fitting straight off the pump output?Would there be to much pressure / restriction?Maybe using this pump res. combo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Unless you already have a lot of restriction in your loop elsewhere for the pump you are running, adding a 90 degree fitting or two or five or ... isn't going to affect much. According to Martin it would take approximately *thirty* 90 degree fittings to lower temps 1C.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Flow is alright with my setup, and I'm doing just that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I say go for it.


How would you say the vibrations on those are? I've heard w/ some cases it shakes/rattles them, though yet to hear it w/ Case labs or others, is there any anti-vibration pads or anything I could get to use as I'm looking into one of these to hide up in my case corner then have a main larger res w/ lights for eye candy purposes.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> How would you say the vibrations on those are? I've heard w/ some cases it shakes/rattles them, though yet to hear it w/ Case labs or others, is there any anti-vibration pads or anything I could get to use as I'm looking into one of these to hide up in my case corner then have a main larger res w/ lights for eye candy purposes.


For me, it's non existent. EK killed it on this design in my opinion; it's awesome. The four rubber dampeners that the pump/reservoir sits on does an excellent job at eliminating the transfer of vibration (barely any vibration at all mind you) to the bracket that you bolt up to a case or radiator or whatever. And regardless if you tighten anything as tight as it can get, there shouldn't be any rattling to begin with. So what stories you heard about the thing actually rattling is user error.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What case?


Haf932 and Caselab M8


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Unless you already have a lot of restriction in your loop elsewhere for the pump you are running, adding a 90 degree fitting or two or five or ... isn't going to affect much. According to Martin it would take approximately *thirty* 90 degree fittings to lower temps 1C.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Flow is alright with my setup, and I'm doing just that.
> 
> 
> 
> I say go for it.


Thanks,that makes things allot easier


----------



## brandon6199

Here are my two EVGA GTX 780 Ti's with EK blocks...


----------



## _REAPER_

7 days and a wake up and back to rebuilding my PC


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey I haven't seen you around here in a while! Hows life treating ya? For the Swiftech Mcro Res v2 you are going to need adapters. These ones:
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimablg38tog.html
> 
> Can't help you with the dyes though


why do you need an adapter? they come with g1/4 holes/threads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> 25% greater diameter. 50% larger cross section area. That's more than not much bigger.


its actually 33.333% bigger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Unless you already have a lot of restriction in your loop elsewhere for the pump you are running, adding a 90 degree fitting or two or five or ... isn't going to affect much. According to Martin it would take approximately *thirty* 90 degree fittings to lower temps 1C.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/


it would take a huge amount of 90* fittings to raise restriction to a noticeable amount. if it lowered temps, everyone would be stuffing their cases full of 90* fittings. can you send me a link to that info?
a 90* fitting on the pump outlet is fine. a 90% fitting on the inlet of a pump isnt good.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/tag/pump/


----------



## skupples

EK has pushed the full cover nickel/acetal FC-Titan block into EOL.









response from RMA "sorry to inform you, but we can only send you the copper variant due to EOL on the model you are sending back"


----------



## VSG

So why are you complaining? I thought you wanted copper over nickel.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> [...] it would take a huge amount of 90* fittings to raise restriction to a noticeable amount. if it lowered temps, everyone would be stuffing their cases full of 90* fittings. can you send me a link to that info?
> a 90* fitting on the pump outlet is fine. a 90% fitting on the inlet of a pump isnt good.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/tag/pump/


Don't know what link you want sent. I posted the link to Martin's fittings testing I was referring to, but as you made me aware I meant it would take approximately thirty 90 degree fittings to 'raise' temps, not 'lower'. Doh! Still, I would have hoped that would have been pretty obvious in the context of everything else I wrote.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't know what link you want sent. I posted the link to Martin's fittings testing I was referring to, but as you made me aware I meant it would take approximately thirty 90 degree fittings to 'raise' temps, not 'lower'. Doh! Still, I would have hoped that would have been pretty obvious in the context of everything else I wrote.


I knew what you meant








Not sure if he was being serious or just trollin'


----------



## pc-illiterate

yeah it was obvious. its morning and i havent had enough beer caffeine yet. sometimes i act like my gf in the morning. i feel bad now...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yeah it was obvious. its morning and i havent had enough beer caffeine yet. sometimes i act like my gf in the morning. i feel bad now...


I figured you were being sarcastic since every post I see from you is generally pretty helpful

Kahlua and coffee


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Here are my two EVGA GTX 780 Ti's with EK blocks...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sexy


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yeah it was obvious. its morning and i havent had enough beer caffeine yet. sometimes i act like my gf in the morning. i feel bad now...


Don't feel bad. I did get quite a chuckle thinking about what everyone's loops would look like if ~30 90 deg fittings lowered temps by 1C. I have little doubt there wouldn't be loops without any tubing at all made completely out of 90 deg rotaries.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Here are my two EVGA GTX 780 Ti's with EK blocks...


Damn I wish AMD made crossfire bridges like this!! Sexy build man


----------



## brandon6199

Thanks!


----------



## ozzy1925

will the d5 pump eough for 1x cpu,2xgpu,1x(4slot ram)?Radiators will be 2x ut 60 480mm.


----------



## WebsterXC

Yes that will do just fine. D5 pumps are incredibly powerful and wonderfully quiet.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> will the d5 pump eough for 1x cpu,2xgpu,1x(4slot ram)?Radiators will be 2x ut 60 480mm.


Yes..and then some
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Yes that will do just fine. D5 pumps are incredibly powerful and wonderfully quiet.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Yes that will do just fine. D5 pumps are incredibly powerful and wonderfully quiet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes..and then some


thanks i will be buying swiftech with bitspower v2 acrylic top


----------



## iamkraine

So how to screw in the C47 multi links into Radiators after the acrylic tube is in the fitting? It seem like it would be difficult since its not a compression fitting.

One more question, how do the C47 and the enhanced acrylic fitting from bitspower different?


----------



## Aftermath2006

So i received tracking info for my replacement blocks they are coming by DHL i havent had experience with them how is there shipping and so forth


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> So how to screw in the C47 multi links into Radiators after the acrylic tube is in the fitting? It seem like it would be difficult since its not a compression fitting.
> 
> One more question, how do the C47 and the enhanced acrylic fitting from bitspower different?


Some people will put just a tad of silicon grease on the tube so that it (a) protects the o-rings, and (b) allow you to screw the fitting in and keep the tube from spinning with it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Yes that will do just fine. D5 pumps are incredibly powerful and wonderfully quiet *noisy*.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes..and then some
Click to expand...

I beg to differ (







) but to each their own. Still, its a great pump









MIPS, why you go out of business when I need thee







. Anyone see an Extreme11 X79 full set motherboard block, please send me a pm!


----------



## morencyam

I thought I remembered seeing someone here on OCN making blocks for that board. I'll see if I can find it

Well nateman_doo was making blocks but had to stop advertising here on OCN. Maybe he's still making them and you can get more info via PM
http://www.overclock.net/t/1319941/asrock-x79-extreme11-custom-waterblock


----------



## PCModderMike

@nateman_doo Created blocks for the Extreme11 X79 cpachris was using.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I thought I remembered seeing someone here on OCN making blocks for that board. I'll see if I can find it


Nateman? As much as I think his work is amazing, its a dead end tbh. Following his thread there's ppl waiting for several months. I found another lead but he's about a few weeks out before he has more. Other then that, I'm open to see if i used set comes up for sale soon. The pch and plx's heatsink fan is annoying and mine rattles a bit. Its very common complaint but I was told the latest bios would help. It really doesn't tbh.

So I only know of three blocks: MIPS, Ebay seller, and Nateman. Right now, I'm crossing my fingers a used one turns up or the ebay seller has them available soon.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> its actually 33.333% bigger.


Not sure how you are calculating that, but 15/12 = 1.25. And pi*(7.5^2)/pi*(6^2) = 1.56. So it is 25% and 56% larger.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> a 90* fitting on the pump outlet is fine. a 90% fitting on the inlet of a pump isnt good.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/tag/pump/


Unless I'm reading that wrong, it looks like the elbow on the outlet is worse (-3.5%) than on the inlet (-1.8%), at least on the DDC pump. Was there a different result with D5 pumps?


----------



## X-oiL

I read a lot of people recommending to have the res before the pump.

Will it cause a lot of issue if not?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Not sure how you are calculating that, but 15/12 = 1.25. And pi*(7.5^2)/pi*(6^2) = 1.56. So it is 25% and 56% larger.
> Unless I'm reading that wrong, it looks like the elbow on the outlet is worse (-3.5%) than on the inlet (-1.8%), at least on the DDC pump. Was there a different result with D5 pumps?


yeah math was backwards. wont explain it. i feel like a first grader doing algebra.
i dont know where its at. its also been quoted so many times that martin says dont use a 90* fitting on the pump inlet. and martin did that^ the beginning of this year. long after people quoted him as saying "dont do it."


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> I read a lot of people recommending to have the res before the pump.
> 
> Will it cause a lot of issue if not?


Not really. Having it before the pump just makes the loop much easier to fill and bleed.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> I read a lot of people recommending to have the res before the pump.
> 
> Will it cause a lot of issue if not?


As long as you make sure your pump NEVER runs dry it should be np.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> I read a lot of people recommending to have the res before the pump.
> 
> Will it cause a lot of issue if not?


Yes, that's a widely held suggestion. Having the reservoir before the pump ensures you don't starve the pump when filling up your loop and cause any damage running it dry. Everything else, its fair game. Recommend to try to keep the plumbing as short and neat as possible. But no harM in doing long "swoopy" runs


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Not really. Having it before the pump just makes the loop much easier to fill and bleed.


So if I have a fill and drainport it won't be a problem?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> As long as you make sure your pump NEVER runs dry it should be np.


How can I make sure it won't?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> So if I have a fill and drainport it won't be a problem?
> How can I make sure it won't?


If you have a fill port going directly to the pump you can avoid starving the pump if you are careful. Filling is not so fun because you only have your fill port worth of volume you can pump at a time, versus say your entire res worth....you also having to pump the fluid into the res bit by bit until your loop+res are full.

Honestly, if you are not going to do res->pump, I'd just leave the res out. They are the least needed part of a loop, especially if you are not using it to feed the pump. Really at that point it is just eyecandy.

Save yourself some headache and put your res->pump.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So why are you complaining? I thought you wanted copper over nickel.


I do, the response is just entertaining to me. (grumble grumble) FCPU didn't tell me their packages require signature, so the package is now floating around miami for another day. IF I would of known I would of put my giant LEAVE THE DAMNED PACKAGE @ THE DOOR sign up.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If you have a fill port going directly to the pump you can avoid starving the pump if you are careful. Filling is not so fun because you only have your fill port worth of volume you can pump at a time, versus say your entire res worth....you also having to pump the fluid into the res bit by bit until your loop+res are full.
> 
> Honestly, if you are not going to do res->pump, I'd just leave the res out. They are the least needed part of a loop, especially if you are not using it to feed the pump. Really at that point it is just eyecandy.
> 
> Save yourself some headache and put your res->pump.


Thanks for the info, guess I'll have to find a way to mount both the pump and the res on the same side of the motherboard even if it's a tight fit


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> I read a lot of people recommending to have the res before the pump.
> 
> Will it cause a lot of issue if not?
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you make sure your pump NEVER runs dry it should be np.
Click to expand...

I never understood why people think it stops the pump running dry....if the loop has emptied then the res empties as well....

Its mainly as its the last point in the loop and its a good place to catch air,if the res is part way round from the pump then air in the last run of the loop goes straight in to the pump. If its at the end this doesnt happen.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I have two 7950s that have Alphacool Nexxxos v2 Water Blocks on them. I just received a third 7950, but it is on a 7970 PCB so I have to purchase a 7970 water block. I was going to go with the Alphacool Nexxxos ATXP 7970 water block, but just realized that it passively cools the VRM's unlike my Alphacool 7950 water blocks which have active VRM cooling. I am wondering if I can use another brand of 7970 water block for this card because I use the straight Swiftech Lok-Seal GPU connectors to connect my cards and I'm wondering if the threads will line up between the Alphacool block and a block of another brand.

My thread is here with more detail and pictures of the problem if anyone can help me out it would be greatly appreciated because I want to order the block soon because my entire build is on hold trying to figure this out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1450291/help-mixing-different-brands-of-water-blocks-in-a-loop/0_30#post_21369763


----------



## morencyam

It doesn't necessarily have to be on the same side. As long as the res is above the pump it can be anywhere really. In my rebuild I have the tube from the res to pump going though a pass through with the pump mounded under the motherboard(horizontal mobo).


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> So if I have a fill and drainport it won't be a problem?
> How can I make sure it won't?


If the pump runs dry for a couple seconds youre fine. People act like if the pump runs dry for .01 seconds the world will explode. Just make sure it doesn't run dry for a prolonged period of time (>30 sec) when filling.

Also the rest doesnt HAVE to be below the res. I hate when people make this generalization. Parts can go pretty much in any order. However it is correct to say that its a complete b%#$* to fill/drain your loop when the rest is below the pump.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I do, the response is just entertaining to me. (grumble grumble) FCPU didn't tell me their packages require signature, so the package is now floating around miami for another day. IF I would of known I would of put my giant LEAVE THE DAMNED PACKAGE @ THE DOOR sign up.


All packages over $300 are signature on delivery. The policy is in the shipping section of the FAQ I believe. You can't override signature by putting a note on the door if the package is over $1000.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I have two 7950s that have Alphacool Nexxxos v2 Water Blocks on them. I just received a third 7950, but it is on a 7970 PCB so I have to purchase a 7970 water block. I was going to go with the Alphacool Nexxxos ATXP 7970 water block, but just realized that it passively cools the VRM's unlike my Alphacool 7950 water blocks which have active VRM cooling. I am wondering if I can use another brand of 7970 water block for this card because I use the straight Swiftech Lok-Seal GPU connectors to connect my cards and I'm wondering if the threads will line up between the Alphacool block and a block of another brand.
> 
> My thread is here with more detail and pictures of the problem if anyone can help me out it would be greatly appreciated because I want to order the block soon because my entire build is on hold trying to figure this out.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1450291/help-mixing-different-brands-of-water-blocks-in-a-loop/0_30#post_21369763


Post a pic,i think i have an unused block and plate of the same type you are looking for


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I never understood why people think it stops the pump running dry....if the loop has emptied then the res empties as well....
> 
> Its mainly as its the last point in the loop and its a good place to catch air,if the res is part way round from the pump then air in the last run of the loop goes straight in to the pump. If its at the end this doesnt happen.


Hmmm... from the reasoning i was given, its not ideal running the pump dry as there's no liquid to act as a lubricating barrier.

In the aquarium forums, this is also recommended not to run the pump dry. I accidentally plugged in my aquarium pump forgetting to prime it and it made some loud nasty noises. Caught it in time and got it primed before restarting it. .


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Post a pic,i think i have an unused block and plate of the same type you are looking for


Post a pic of what? In my thread I have posted pictures of all the blocks including mine if that's what your looking for. I'm just worrying about the alignment of the threads between my Alphacool 7950 v2 blocks and say, a HeatKiller 7970 water block using Swiftech Lok-Seal connectors between the GPU's, but if I have to I'll use two compressions and a piece of tubing between my Alphacool blocks and a block that's another brand on my 7950 with 7970 PCB.

I just really don't want to have to buy the Alphacool 7970 block that doesn't have active VRM cooling like my Alphacool v2 7950 blocks.

7950 v2 Alphacool


7970 Alphacool


Does it look like any of these blocks will line up with the threading of my Alphacool v2 7950 blocks?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



This is the block I have:

The heatkiller:

and the EK:


I think the heatkiller looks like the threads might line up with my Alphacool blocks. Just need some second opinions. If worse comes to worse I'll buy the Alphacool 7970 block, but I really don't want to!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I never understood why people think it stops the pump running dry....if the loop has emptied then the res empties as well....
> 
> Its mainly as its the last point in the loop and its a good place to catch air,if the res is part way round from the pump then air in the last run of the loop goes straight in to the pump. If its at the end this doesnt happen.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm... from the reasoning i was given, its not ideal running the pump dry as there's no liquid to act as a lubricating barrier.
> 
> In the aquarium forums, this is also recommended not to run the pump dry. I accidentally plugged in my aquarium pump forgetting to prime it and it made some loud nasty noises. Caught it in time and got it primed before restarting it. .
Click to expand...

True,it doesnt take long to score the ceramic bearings when dry. You were lucky i think.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Post a pic,i think i have an unused block and plate of the same type you are looking for
> 
> 
> 
> Post a pic of what? In my thread I have posted pictures of all the blocks including mine if that's what your looking for. I'm just worrying about the alignment of the threads between my Alphacool 7950 v2 blocks and say, a HeatKiller 7970 water block using Swiftech Lok-Seal connectors between the GPU's, but if I have to I'll use two compressions and a piece of tubing between my Alphacool blocks and a block that's another brand on my 7950 with 7970 PCB.
> 
> I just really don't want to have to buy the Alphacool 7970 block that doesn't have active VRM cooling like my Alphacool v2 7950 blocks.
> 
> 7950 v2 Alphacool
> 
> 
> 7970 Alphacool
Click to expand...

You are in luck.


----------



## skupples

Good thing it's only a 500$ package. Also, UPS "My choice" should really have an option somewhere that lets you override signature requirement. As in "I click this box putting all liability on my self if my package is delivered, but I never get it" Many people still work during the day for a living.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are in luck.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really appreciate your response, but I'm not sure why you are posting pictures of that block









I already have two of those blocks in my build, but recently received a third 7950, but it has a 7970PCB so that block won't fit. Alphacool also makes a 7970 version of that block, but it doesn't have active cooling like the 7950 version of the water block like you have there in those pictures so I want to buy a different brand 7970 block that does have active VRM cooling, but my worry is that a different manufacturers threads won't line up with the Alphacools threads because I'm using Swiftech Lok-Seal GPU connectors which don't bend and can only connect vertically. I'm wondering what other 7970 blocks threads would line up with the Alphacool v2 7950 threads. I think the heatkiller might match up, but I'm not sure.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> True,it doesnt take long to score the ceramic bearings when dry. You were lucky i think.


Yup, i only plugged it in briefly but disconnected it immediately when I heard the noise (







)


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Good thing it's only a 500$ package. Also, UPS "My choice" should really have an option somewhere that lets you override signature requirement. As in "I click this box putting all liability on my self if my package is delivered, but I never get it" Many people still work during the day for a living.


For me it's the opposite problem. I recently had a Purolator delivery guy leave a new Nexus 5 phone on the front mat of our house in -25 C weather because he was too lazy to ring the doorbell (we were home at the time). When I looked at the online tracking info, it said it was signed for by "Dr Front Door".


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are in luck.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really appreciate your response, but I'm not sure why you are posting pictures of that block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already have two of those blocks in my build, but recently received a third 7950, but it has a 7970PCB so that block won't fit. Alphacool also makes a 7970 version of that block, but it doesn't have active cooling like the 7950 version of the water block like you have there in those pictures so I want to buy a different brand 7970 block that does have active VRM cooling, but my worry is that a different manufacturers threads won't line up with the Alphacools threads because I'm using Swiftech Lok-Seal GPU connectors which don't bend and can only connect vertically. I'm wondering what other 7970 blocks threads would line up with the Alphacool v2 7950 threads. I think the heatkiller might match up, but I'm not sure.
Click to expand...

My mistake,I had it in my head you were looking for one......


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I do, the response is just entertaining to me. (grumble grumble) FCPU didn't tell me their packages require signature, so the package is now floating around miami for another day. IF I would of known I would of put my giant LEAVE THE DAMNED PACKAGE @ THE DOOR sign up.


Dude, sign up for 'My UPS'. It's free. You'll get alerts for packages, a time of day estimate for delivery (example: 'between 2 and 4pm'), _it'll tell you if a package requires a signature, and if so, you can digitally sign for it online ahead of time_ so you don't need to be there, you can add extra delivery instructions like leave at back door or with a neighbor, etc. Did I mention it's free?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> For me it's the opposite problem. I recently had a Purolator delivery guy leave a new Nexus 5 phone on the front mat of our house in -25 C weather because he was too lazy to ring the doorbell (we were home at the time). When I looked at the online tracking info, it said it was signed for by "Dr Front Door".


Ohhh, that's rich! We only have to worry about +37c here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Dude, sign up for 'My UPS'. It's free. You'll get alerts for packages, a time of day estimate for delivery (example: 'between 2 and 4pm'), _it'll tell you if a package requires a signature, and if so, you can digitally sign for it online ahead of time_ so you don't need to be there, you can add extra delivery instructions like leave at back door or with a neighbor, etc. Did I mention it's free?


I must of missed those options in myups, as I have it. Guess i'll log in and find it.

edit: Derp, never saw that because I wasn't actually logging into myups, even when logging into ups. Owell, gave me a day to get the new front door painted.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys would this be a good thing to use to clean my rads while still inside the case and has anyone ever used this or something similar....

http://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-12v-250psi-mini-air-compressor_p6270165


----------



## brandon6199

Can anyone tell me if I'm going to have issues with the M3 screw heads that are holding the EK block to the pcb make contact with the EVGA backplate? It's not going to short anything out, is it? I used the little plastic washers that came with the EK block under each screw, but I just want to be sure...

EDIT: See below for diagram.




Is this going to be an issue?


----------



## kpoeticg

Rads are usually only tested for like 1 or 2 bar. It would be good for blowing the dust off it, i probly wouldn't stick it inside tho. A Datavac is great for blowing the dust off stuff


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if I'm going to have issues with the M3 screw heads that are holding the EK block to the pcb make contact with the EVGA backplate? It's not going to short anything out, is it? I used the little plastic washers that came with the EK block under each screw, but I just want to be sure...
> 
> EDIT: See below for diagram.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this going to be an issue?


No, there's no harm. IF you have any concerns, you can add some electrical top on top of the screw head. I've modded a few evga backplates to koolance, ek, and hk blocks. Some just require a few longer screws which you can pick up on ebay for a few dollars.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Rads are usually only tested for like 1 or 2 bar. It would be good for blowing the dust off it, i probly wouldn't stick it inside tho. A Datavac is great for blowing the dust off stuff


I will invest in a datavac but for the time being i'm just looking for a quick solution to cleaning my top rad which is rather dusty....May just grab a couple cans of compressed air until i save up enough for the datavac which can cost upwards of $150 here in aus....


----------



## kpoeticg

Ahhh, so you were just talking about blowing dust off. Cans of compressed air, Datavac, Air Compressor are all the same thing really. Datavacs nice cuz it comes with all the mini vacuum attachments for electronics. But any will work


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys would this be a good thing to use to clean my rads while still inside the case and has anyone ever used this or something similar....
> 
> http://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-12v-250psi-mini-air-compressor_p6270165
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I assume you want it to be able to blow the dust out of the fins, but an air compressor like that isn't going to work. Sorry. It will pump up a tire but it doesn't have an air tank where it stores compressed air like an actual air compressor does to be able to use a blow gun with it.

They used to sell cans of compressed air that were refillable like this - they sold them by themselves or with a little compressor like you linked- but I'm not sure anyone sells anything like that any more.

This looks to be the cheapest actual air compressor I could find (US) ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Campbell-Hausfeld-AIR-COMPRESSOR-1-Gallon-Pancake-110-VOLT-FP2028-INFLATOR-/390566860123?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aef99555b
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-FP2028-Compressor-Accessory/dp/B000BOCBAM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1386800966&sr=8-13&keywords=air+compressor

If you do go trying to blow the dust out of a rad's fins with an air compressor, you want to be careful. A full blast of air from a blow gun from too close a proximity to a rad can damage the copper fins pretty easily. They aren't as strong/durable as a CPU air cooler heatsink, for example. I blow the dust out of my cases every couple months with an air compressor, including rads, and it works great, MUCH better than a little can of compressed air or a datavac, but I know not to stick a blowgun right up to the fins on a rad and pull the trigger.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No, there's no harm. IF you have any concerns, you can add some electrical top on top of the screw head. I've modded a few evga backplates to koolance, ek, and hk blocks. Some just require a few longer screws which you can pick up on ebay for a few dollars.


Got it. Thanks man! PS - I'm a fellow San Diegan as well









+REP


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ahhh, so you were just talking about blowing dust off. Cans of compressed air, Datavac, Air Compressor are all the same thing really. Datavacs nice cuz it comes with all the mini vacuum attachments for electronics. But any will work


Will the datavac help to clean between the fins....?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Will the datavac help to clean between the fins....?


Yeah it should. I'd be careful depending what rad you have, but the little bristle brush it comes with should work


----------



## vaporizer

i use my air compressor to clean my machine. i turn down the pressure really low and don't get it too close to the parts. i use something like THIS the best thing to use is the Data-vac as many others will attest to for sure. i am too cheap to get one though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I will invest in a datavac but for the time being i'm just looking for a quick solution to cleaning my top rad which is rather dusty....May just grab a couple cans of compressed air until i save up enough for the datavac which can cost upwards of $150 here in aus....


It's obscene how much the prices have gone up on datavac over the past year. Use to be able to get the base model in Sears for 30$.


----------



## kpoeticg

I think i payed like 50 for mine.

But then again my stupid *ss bought the version that had a vacuum on one side first cuz i thought the blower side would be the same. So considering it was a complete waste of money, i really spent like 100 on my Datavac =\


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys now that I'm decided on my blocks *fist pumps kpoetig*









Wanted to get a deeper understanding and recommendation for good rad's. Looks like I"ll most likely be going w/ AP-15's x32 for 4x 480 Rads, there's the UT60's and the SR-1's and I'm reading up on FPI. Based upon these fans (unless anyone recommends something that performs relatively close is quiet and actually looks good (besides NB's ) ) and putting these in a TH10 which would you guys recommend? 4xmm 6xmm or? As well as brand. Also a good pump(s) to go w/ this.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey guys now that I'm decided on my blocks *fist pumps kpoetig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get a deeper understanding and recommendation for good rad's. Looks like I"ll most likely be going w/ AP-15's x32 for 4x 480 Rads, there's the UT60's and the SR-1's and I'm reading up on FPI. Based upon these fans (unless anyone recommends something that performs relatively close is quiet and actually looks good (besides NB's ) ) and putting these in a TH10 which would you guys recommend? 4xmm 6xmm or? As well as brand. Also a good pump(s) to go w/ this.


you got a th10....get 4 480 monstas.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> you got a th10....get 4 480 monstas.


WHICH ones though there's a few revisions / thickness varations of the 480's lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> WHICH ones though there's a few revisions / thickness varations of the 480's lol


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=34505

those, get 4 of those. im gonna stuff my sth10 with them lol.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's obscene how much the prices have gone up on datavac over the past year. Use to be able to get the base model in Sears for 30$.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think i payed like 50 for mine.
> 
> But then again my stupid *ss bought the version that had a vacuum on one side first cuz i thought the blower side would be the same. So considering it was a complete waste of money, i really spent like 100 on my Datavac =\


The prices are ridiculous here in aus,i could get in from the states for about $50-60 but then shipping would be around $60-70 so i might as well get it here,hopefully in the mean while,while i'm saving for it i might come across a used one if lucky....kpoeticg are you saying you have to get different adapter for different usage....?


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd go with either UT60 or Monsta personally

The Alphacool NexXxos Monsta's only have one version, unless u include the white version which is just a different color
UT60 = 60mm thick
Monsta = 80mm thick
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> The prices are ridiculous here in aus,i could get in from the states for about $50-60 but then shipping would be around $60-70 so i might as well get it here,hopefully in the mean while,while i'm saving for it i might come across a used one if lucky....kpoeticg are you saying you have to get different adapter for different usage....?


No, MetroVac sells the Datavac and a cpl other vacuums. They sell a version with a vacuum on one end and a blower on the other. It SUCKS. The Datavac comes with everything u need


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=34505
> 
> those, get 4 of those. im gonna stuff my sth10 with them lol.


I'm seeing 2 versions , one plain and the other copper but its cheaper??????

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=32768

vs

yours

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd go with either UT60 or Monsta personally
> 
> The Alphacool NexXxos Monsta's only have one version, unless u include the white version which is just a different color
> UT60 = 60mm thick
> Monsta = 80mm thick


MUH DAWG lol

Anyways is there any diff from using either? Like is one thicker and more fins or are they the same and just thicker = more cooling? Appreciate it from both !


----------



## kpoeticg

The Monsta's 20mm thicker so it has more cooling surface. They're the same FPI tho. The UT60 seems to perform better on most tests for alot of RPM ranges, dunno why


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The Monsta's 20mm thicker so it has more cooling surface. They're the same FPI tho. The UT60 seems to perform better on most tests for alot of RPM ranges, dunno why


Never trust a skinny chef


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Never trust a skinny chef


I would go with the UT60's, or even the 45's... I *think* the SR1's are the exact same thing with a different shroud, or is it the game changers? Can't remember.


----------



## Fonne

How do you think I will get the best airflow/temp to my XT45 280mm rads in my S3 Pedestal ?

1: I could just let the air pass from one side to the other, but then I will be getting hot air into the second rad.



2: Or push cold air into both rads, and maybe use my PSU to pull the hot air out ?



3: If I mod the case I should be able to fit 3x50mm in the front + back of the pedestal like this to remove the hot air ....



Or another option ?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would go with the UT60's, or even the 45's... I *think* the SR1's are the exact same thing with a different shroud, or is it the game changers? Can't remember.


Well hopefully we can decide on one lol, I have an hour left anyways before I miss out on next day shipping though not that inmportant since there's still tomorrow







after the RAD's ar finalized, I can work on getting pumps, then Acrylic tubing, then fittings, and w/e else may be recommended and finally mayhems dye + w/e else I need to toss in the mix


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would go with the UT60's, or even the 45's... I *think* the SR1's are the exact same thing with a different shroud, or is it the game changers? Can't remember.


Yeah, you're thinking of the Phobya G-Changers. Alphacool & Phobya have the same parent company. The G-Changer's the same rad without the extra bells & whistles like the extra ports

Luna, if u can fit 4 Monsta's, go for it. 4 UT60's will be more than enough tho. And with all that space, i'd either go with a single or Dual D5's for pump


----------



## phillyd

Directly from Hank, the owner of PPC's, in reference to the Monsoon Hard Line bending kits:

http://www.modders-inc.com/monsoon-premium-water-cooling-components-hardline-tubing/


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Directly from Hank, the owner of PPC's, in reference to the Monsoon Hard Line bending kits:
> 
> http://www.modders-inc.com/monsoon-premium-water-cooling-components-hardline-tubing/


















Wooohoooo


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, you're thinking of the Phobya G-Changers. Alphacool & Phobya have the same parent company. The G-Changer's the same rad without the extra bells & whistles like the extra ports
> 
> Luna, if u can fit 4 Monsta's, go for it. 4 UT60's will be more than enough tho. And with all that space, i'd either go with a single or Dual D5's for pump


Which ones though they have one that says copper, oddly cheaper then there's the one that szed posted that doesn't state what it is lol but is more pricy xD?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Directly from Hank, the owner of PPC's, in reference to the Monsoon Hard Line bending kits:
> 
> http://www.modders-inc.com/monsoon-premium-water-cooling-components-hardline-tubing/


BERRY NICE TY


----------



## kpoeticg

Luna, the Alphacool's only come with all copper

There's no other version of them


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Luna, the Alphacool's only come with all copper
> 
> There's no other version of them


PPC Y U MESSIN

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=34505

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=32768


----------



## RussianJ

No more GT fans

FrozenCPU,
Regretfully, both Nidec and Scythe have decided not to continue their business relationship.

We will not be able to fulfill your Gentle Typhoon order.
We will be promoting the new Grand Flex fans. These are supposedly better than the Gentle Typhoons.
We need to get the message out to the public. I should have some samples by early next month.
By the way, Scythe reserves the right to the name Gentle Typhoon.
That means Nidec can't sell the product to anybody with our label, our package, our brand and etc. attached to it.

Thank you.

Best Regards,
Hank Peng
SCYTHE, Inc.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> PPC Y U MESSIN
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=34505
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=32768


the monsta is not the same as the ut60







the monsta is definitely bigger by 20mm, hence the extra cost, its basically the ut60 + 20mm more...ut80?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ*
> 
> No more GT fans
> 
> FrozenCPU,
> Regretfully, both Nidec and Scythe have decided not to continue their business relationship.
> 
> We will not be able to fulfill your Gentle Typhoon order.
> We will be promoting the new Grand Flex fans. These are supposedly better than the Gentle Typhoons.
> We need to get the message out to the public. I should have some samples by early next month.
> By the way, Scythe reserves the right to the name Gentle Typhoon.
> That means Nidec can't sell the product to anybody with our label, our package, our brand and etc. attached to it.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Hank Peng
> SCYTHE, Inc.


wow that sucks, time to stock up on typhoons.


----------



## kpoeticg

Why would Scythe & Nidec make such a ridiculously stupid business decision?!?!?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ*
> 
> No more GT fans
> 
> FrozenCPU,
> Regretfully, both Nidec and Scythe have decided not to continue their business relationship.
> 
> We will not be able to fulfill your Gentle Typhoon order.
> We will be promoting the new Grand Flex fans. These are supposedly better than the Gentle Typhoons.
> We need to get the message out to the public. I should have some samples by early next month.
> By the way, Scythe reserves the right to the name Gentle Typhoon.
> That means Nidec can't sell the product to anybody with our label, our package, our brand and etc. attached to it.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Hank Peng
> SCYTHE, Inc.


No more Gentle Typhoons... ever?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> How do you think I will get the best airflow/temp to my XT45 280mm rads in my S3 Pedestal ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or another option ?


Go with this and the mod for adding the 50mm fans. I'm currently setting up a similar system using the Cooler Master HAF stacker for CES and so far it looks like that's the best configuration for optimal cooling performance. Pushing the hot air from one rad to the other really hinders the performance of the cooling system.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ*
> 
> No more GT fans
> 
> FrozenCPU,
> Regretfully, both Nidec and Scythe have decided not to continue their business relationship.
> 
> We will not be able to fulfill your Gentle Typhoon order.
> We will be promoting the new Grand Flex fans. These are supposedly better than the Gentle Typhoons.
> We need to get the message out to the public. I should have some samples by early next month.
> By the way, Scythe reserves the right to the name Gentle Typhoon.
> That means Nidec can't sell the product to anybody with our label, our package, our brand and etc. attached to it.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Hank Peng
> SCYTHE, Inc.


Omg are there any areas that are selling Grand Flex fans then? If they're supposedly better do you have specs to post? This honestly sucks and will definitely drive the price up >_> Any pics of the new ones though?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the monsta is not the same as the ut60
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the monsta is definitely bigger by 20mm, hence the extra cost, its basically the ut60 + 20mm more...ut80?


oh..lol I think 80mm + P/P would kill it even in the TH10 LOL


----------



## wermad

More blocks arrived. Pending the plates from ppcs.com (back order)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> More blocks arrived. Pending the plates from ppcs.com (back order)


Sexy


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> No more Gentle Typhoons... ever?


Sigh, time to stock up!


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Go with this and the mod for adding the 50mm fans. I'm currently setting up a similar system using the Cooler Master HAF stacker for CES and so far it looks like that's the best configuration for optimal cooling performance. Pushing the hot air from one rad to the other really hinders the performance of the cooling system.


Thanks









Was thinking about just using 3x 50mm fans like this in both ends ....

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p16285_Noiseblocker-NB-BlacksilentFan-XS1---50x50x10mm--.html

They don't move a lot of air, but hope 3 in both the front + end will do the job ... Will try to see if I can fit 60mm so I can use 3x 60x25mm and move some more air.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ*
> 
> No more GT fans
> 
> FrozenCPU,
> Regretfully, both Nidec and Scythe have decided not to continue their business relationship.
> 
> We will not be able to fulfill your Gentle Typhoon order.
> We will be promoting the new Grand Flex fans. These are supposedly better than the Gentle Typhoons.
> We need to get the message out to the public. I should have some samples by early next month.
> By the way, Scythe reserves the right to the name Gentle Typhoon.
> That means Nidec can't sell the product to anybody with our label, our package, our brand and etc. attached to it.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Hank Peng
> SCYTHE, Inc.


Sucks







. Well, lets see what the Grand Flex can do.


----------



## LunaP

Anyone know if these connect to molex or not ?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_837&products_id=21664

If so if I select 2 pin does that mean I can plug 2 into 1 molex? or any advantage to either? brighter etc?


----------



## kpoeticg

Luna, the 2Pin connector is a Dupont connector for headers like the ones on your mobo

If you want them to connect to a Molex, u need a resistor too


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Luna, the 2Pin connector is a Dupont connector for headers like the ones on your mobo
> 
> If you want them to connect to a Molex, u need a resistor too


Ah ok what are the recommended cables then since I don't wanna use my MB for these, and pin size 2/3

Also see my previous question on the RAD's lol UT60 or 80? 60 right?


----------



## szeged

put an order in for 15 more ap-15's before they all get sold out lol, was trying to delay buying them to the last part of the build, but screw it better safe than sorry.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Directly from Hank, the owner of PPC's, in reference to the Monsoon Hard Line bending kits:
> 
> http://www.modders-inc.com/monsoon-premium-water-cooling-components-hardline-tubing/


O my! Damn, I grabbing that the first day it comes out. Since I going to be doing my first acrylic tubing by the end of this month. Ooooooo, I can't wait!


----------



## lowfat

So glad I still have 15 GT's. But maybe I should stock up on some more.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah ok what are the recommended cables then since I don't wanna use my MB for these, and pin size 2/3
> 
> Also see my previous question on the RAD's lol UT60 or 80? 60 right?


Those 2Pin connectors plug into THESE


and THESE


The Monsta is a 20mm thicker version of the UT60.


----------



## LunaP

Oh also if I get 10mm acrylic would 3/8" fittings be correct or 1/2?

The GPU blocks and everything else have 1/4"

It's asking prior to purchasing for the CPU

I don't want thick tub looking for average/just enough.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> put an order in for 15 more ap-15's before they all get sold out lol, was trying to delay buying them to the last part of the build, but screw it better safe than sorry.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So glad I still have 15 GT's. But maybe I should stock up on some more.


Yeah, i might need a few more AP-00's my build. Was putting it off til later....


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys,

This is where I'm at with my current build. I have all tubing runs pretty much covered, but maybe someone can point me in the right direction as what to do with the final CPU outlet port - > 280mm inlet port? It doesn't really look like I have too much in regards to options, looks like it's going to be a long tubing run that goes over the GPU's and the reservoir... any ideas??


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> This is where I'm at with my current build. I have all tubing runs pretty much covered, but maybe someone can point me in the right direction as what to do with the final CPU outlet port - > 280mm inlet port? It doesn't really look like I have too much in regards to options, looks like it's going to be a long tubing run that goes over the GPU's and the reservoir... any ideas??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The order of your loop doesn't really matter. It seems like you're trying to have 1 rad for GPU and 1 for CPU. There's really no benefit to that. The temps even out. Just make the cleanest runs possible

If you have your tubing coming out of the bottom of your GPU Blocks and send them to your bottom rad, would be cleaner...


----------



## Ovrclck

Just bought a couple more ap-15's as backups. Thanks guys.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Decided to go ahead and jump on 6 of the GT's. Figured I should get them now rather than later.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> This is where I'm at with my current build. I have all tubing runs pretty much covered, but maybe someone can point me in the right direction as what to do with the final CPU outlet port - > 280mm inlet port? It doesn't really look like I have too much in regards to options, looks like it's going to be a long tubing run that goes over the GPU's and the reservoir... any ideas??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would run the outlet from the bottom rad to the bottom of the gpu

res/pump>rad>gpu>cpu>rad>res or make the last run connecting to the res?


----------



## Fonne

Is there more models of the GT ? (Other the rpm) ....

Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1850rpm

D1225C12B5AP-15
http://www.webhallen.com/dk-da/hardware/114510-scythe_gentle_typhoon_120mm_1850rpm?atcl=start:viewed

Just to be sure I order the right ones  .... Just ~19 USD here in Denmark, hope they can go down to around 1000 rpm ?

Or maybe I should just the the 1150 or 1450 rpm ....


----------



## kpoeticg

There's GT AP-11 - AP-15 + AP-00/AP-45 (2150RPM)
Then there's AP-29 - AP-31 which are the industrial (loud) models


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> This is where I'm at with my current build. I have all tubing runs pretty much covered, but maybe someone can point me in the right direction as what to do with the final CPU outlet port - > 280mm inlet port? It doesn't really look like I have too much in regards to options, looks like it's going to be a long tubing run that goes over the GPU's and the reservoir... any ideas??


Flip the radiators so the ports are at the top. It will look better and be much easier to bleed.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's GT AP-11 - AP-15 + AP-00/AP-45 (2150RPM)
> Then there's AP-29 - AP-31 which are the industrial (loud) models


Thanks ... How low in rpm can the 1850 rpm go ? .... Or else I will just order the 1450 rpm ...


----------



## LunaP

kpoetig ;__;

also

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_357_359&products_id=21664

vs

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_357_359&products_id=24129

Any diff in brightness , or anything other than the type of connector? Or should I just go single along w/ the adapter?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Thanks ... How low in rpm can the 1850 rpm go ? .... Or else I will just order the 1450 rpm ...


@ 5V the AP-15s run @ 700 RPM. Which is what I run all mine at.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @ 5V the AP-15s run @ 700 RPM. Which is what I run all mine at.


Thanks  - Must be almost total silent at that speed ...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> kpoetig ;__;
> 
> also
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_357_359&products_id=21664
> 
> vs
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_357_359&products_id=24129
> 
> Any diff in brightness , or anything other than the type of connector? Or should I just go single along w/ the adapter?


One of those you showed is a single 3mm LED. The other is Dual 5mm LED's.
MCD = Brightness. I personally order my LED's from places like Amazon. For instance the mod i recently did on my Phobya E-Loops uses 15000mcd LED's


----------



## wermad

^^^mad photo skills in development


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^mad photo skills in development


Thanx








I still got a ways to go. I'm getting there tho


----------



## LunaP

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_367

which of these EK combo pumps is best? I'm gonna get this for the pump then have a sep res connected to it for looks.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd go with whatever D5 kit suits your build best.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'd go with whatever D5 kit suits your build best.


Kit?

Also where would I find the clamps or holders for putting it on the wall of my case? CL or PPC/FCPU?


----------



## kpoeticg

Ok. I don't remember if you have an Aquaero or not. If you do, I'd recommend getting the Aquacomputer D5 with an EK top to suite your build.

EK & (Un)Designs both make great mounts for mounting your D5. FCPU & PPCs sell them both. Look in the Pump Accessories & Res Accessories categories

I'm not giving links cuz there's a bunch of options. And it really comes down to what suits your build best


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ok. I don't remember if you have an Aquaero of not. If you do, I'd recommend getting the Aquacomputer D5 with an EK top to suite your build.
> 
> EK & (Un)Designs both make great mounts for mounting your D5. FCPU & PPCs sell them both. Look in the Pump Accessories & Res Accessories categories


I have 0 WC components yet, just wanting to buy before 6pm my time which is in like 22 minutes so I can get next day = tomorrow lol.

here's what I have so far, so please feel free to recommend on top of it.

This is for my TH10 w/ 3x Titans. Currently have 2 so until I win this next card I'm getting 2 blocks in case you're wondering.


----------



## wermad

I'm a big ddc fan due to its compact size and its quiet. I vote for ddc/res ek kit







. If you don't care for pwm, get the 3.2 version.


----------



## kpoeticg

Go with the D5/Photon Res combo if you already have a bunch of XSPC.

I'm personally going with dual MCP35x for my build cuz they're compact...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm a big ddc fan due to its compact size and its quiet. I vote for ddc/res ek kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If you don't care for pwm, get the 3.2 version.


Which one is the 5 setting one ? or which is easier to work with I guess, I hear most always talk about having theirs on setting 2.

I'm new to this so w/e is most highly recommended as this will just be for the pump mostly as I'll have a 2nd bigger res for eye candy connecting to it.


----------



## kpoeticg

D5 = Bigger & Quieter
DDC = Smaller, More Powerful, Louder

D5 Vario = 5 Settings. The Aquacomputer D5 is a Vario with better control. Especially through an Aquaero, so you have more than the 5 settings


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> D5 = Bigger & Quieter
> DDC = Smaller, More Powerful, Louder
> 
> D5 Vario = 5 Settings. The Aquacomputer D5 is a Vario with better control. Especially through an Aquaero, so you have more than the 5 settings


Ok updated.

Swapped out the 4pin - 8x 3 pin to a 6pin(pcie) - 8x 3 pin fan mount.

The should be quieter/better than a standalone pump correct? If all looks good I'll order now.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ok. I don't remember if you have an Aquaero of not. If you do, I'd recommend getting the Aquacomputer D5 with an EK top to suite your build.
> 
> EK & (Un)Designs both make great mounts for mounting your D5. FCPU & PPCs sell them both. Look in the Pump Accessories & Res Accessories categories
> 
> 
> 
> *I have 0 WC components yet, just wanting to buy before 6pm my time which is in like 22 minutes so I can get next day = tomorrow lol.
> *
> here's what I have so far, so please feel free to recommend on top of it.
> 
> This is for my TH10 w/ 3x Titans. Currently have 2 so until I win this next card I'm getting 2 blocks in case you're wondering.
Click to expand...

This is sure to turn out BADLY!

Never Ever Buy or make gear decisions in a hurry.

Do your due diligence and come to a functional understanding of the gear you're looking to buy well in advance of putting out the money.

Darlene

And why such a short res for a 10 size caselabs, and what's with the 3/8 tubing in that giant case, it's gonna look like spaghetti for Chrissakes.

Ohhhh, I did I mention that if you anticipate a 3rd GPU, Get The Block Now!

The chance you'll be able to find the same blocks you bought today available in 3 months are less than the chances of finding a cheap hooker who's never had an STD.

Better to have a $100 block you don't use than a $1000 GPU you can't get a matching block for.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> This is where I'm at with my current build. I have all tubing runs pretty much covered, but maybe someone can point me in the right direction as what to do with the final CPU outlet port - > 280mm inlet port? It doesn't really look like I have too much in regards to options, looks like it's going to be a long tubing run that goes over the GPU's and the reservoir... any ideas??


Why did you connect the top rad port, that is closer to the mobo, to the gpu instead of using the rad port closest to the case door?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i definitely agree with Darlene. There's no rush.
I rushed when i made my first purchases for my build, and probly spent like 700 bux on stuff i'm not even gonna use now.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Why did you connect the top rad port, that is closer to the mobo, to the gpu instead of using the rad port closest to the case door?


I tried that initially, and it put alot of pressure on the other rad port -> CPU tubing run, almost kinking the tube because it was tight. Didn't like how it turned out so I switched it up and it's better now.

Believe it or not, I actually think it looks better this way too...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And why such a short res for a 10 size caselabs, and what's with the 3/8 tubing in that giant case, it's gonna look like spaghetti for chrissakes.


rofl it came that way on default , that or selecting 1/2 which either way I'm gonna attempt acrylic so wouldn't use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, i definitely agree with Darlene. There's no rush.
> I rushed when i made my first purchases for my build, and probly spent like 700 bux on stuff i'm not even gonna use now.


We're gonna have a long talk after I get home


----------



## wermad

I personally found the D5 a lot noisier then the 3.2. Noise is on par w/ the 35x at full blast vs the D5 imho. i couldn't stand the D5 and I've never touched them again. I had mine in setting 3 but found the flow very low. Four is the sweet spot for noise and performance.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I personally found the D5 a lot noisier then the 3.2. Noise is on par w/ the 35x at full blast vs the D5 imho. i couldn't stand the D5 and I've never touched them again. I had mine in setting 3 but found the flow very low. Four is the sweet spot for noise and performance.


That's the first bad comment about the D5 I've ever seen. Do you think you got yourself a bad apple? I've looked at many reviews, youtube videos and comments. They all show an almost silent pump that's powerful. Sorry to hear your bad experience.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> D5 = Bigger & Quieter
> DDC = Smaller, More Powerful, Louder
> 
> D5 Vario = 5 Settings. The Aquacomputer D5 is a Vario with better control. Especially through an Aquaero, so you have more than the 5 settings


Its not a click, 5 position dial. Its infinately variable between max and min ... It is exactly the same as the USB D5 because the USB model uses the exact same control circuit. It is just a digital pot instead of a manual pot on the standard Vario. Exactly the same speed range.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> That's the first bad comment about the D5 I've ever seen. Do you think you got yourself a bad apple? I've looked at many reviews, youtube videos and comments. They all show an almost silent pump that's powerful. Sorry to hear your bad experience.


That is exactly right. Each pump is a bit different because each impeller is balanced a bit different at the factory. If you look inside a D5 impeller they have little drilled holes all evenly spaced around the core and some will be filled with varying amounts of lead shot (or some other type of small weight). Two impellers will not have the same pattern of weights added around the core.
Its likely it was just a badly balanced example for some reason.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And why such a short res for a 10 size caselabs, and what's with the 3/8 tubing in that giant case, it's gonna look like spaghetti for chrissakes.
> 
> 
> 
> rofl it came that way on default , that or selecting 1/2 which either way I'm gonna attempt acrylic so wouldn't use.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, i definitely agree with Darlene. There's no rush.
> I rushed when i made my first purchases for my build, and probly spent like 700 bux on stuff i'm not even gonna use now.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We're gonna have a long talk after I get home
Click to expand...

While I'm in beeeeaaaatch mode for a moment more, . . . .









If you're going for the Raystorm, be sure to get the aluminum hold down for use on a 2011 socket.

Unfortunately, that shoots having the leds in it, but it controls the curve so it mates better to the IHS.

Or just get an EK Supremacy and you can have the LEDs.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I personally found the D5 a lot noisier then the 3.2. Noise is on par w/ the 35x at full blast vs the D5 imho. i couldn't stand the D5 and I've never touched them again. I had mine in setting 3 but found the flow very low. Four is the sweet spot for noise and performance.


I never used a D5 personally, so just know from reading
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its not a click, 5 position dial. Its infinately variable between max and min ... It is exactly the same as the USB D5 because the USB model uses the exact same control circuit. It is just a digital pot instead of a manual pot on the standard Vario. Exactly the same speed range.


I thought the standard Vario was a 5 Speed Pot....
I know the AC D5 is infinite control. The regular Vario's infinite too?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I'm in beeeeaaaatch mode for a moment more, . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're going for the Raystorm, be sure to get the aluminum hold down for use on a 2011 socket.
> 
> Unfortunately, that shoots having the leds in it, but it controls the curve so it mates better to the IHS.
> 
> Or just get an EK Supremacy and you can have the LEDs.
> 
> Darlene


Awww but the leds were amazing lol I like the outline vs how the ek blocks are tbh. No way around it ?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I never used a D5 personally, so just know from reading
> I thought the standard Vario was a 5 Speed Pot....
> I know the AC D5 is infinite control. The regular Vario's infinite too?


Completely the same. The USB pump is just a D5 vario with a digital potentiometer rather than a manual dial. A vario can be converted to USB and Vice versa. Because they both use the same circuit board internally both just vary from 1800 to 4800 RPM

Here is one I prepared earlier. Koolance D5 vario converted to USB, the MPS board just wires to the same contacts as the manual pot.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I'm in beeeeaaaatch mode for a moment more, . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're going for the Raystorm, be sure to get the aluminum hold down for use on a 2011 socket.
> 
> Unfortunately, that shoots having the leds in it, but it controls the curve so it mates better to the IHS.
> 
> Or just get an EK Supremacy and you can have the LEDs.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Awww but the leds were amazing lol I like the outline vs how the ek blocks are tbh. No way around it ?
Click to expand...

You spent $500 on a top end mobo, hundreds more on high end RAM, with hopes of getting the best clocks, . . . . While it may only mean a degree or two or three to use the regular Raystorm with the acrylic hold down, it just seems counter to your performance goals.

The Raystorm with acrylic hold down is really optimized for the 1155 size.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for clearing that up for me


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> That's the first bad comment about the D5 I've ever seen. Do you think you got yourself a bad apple? I've looked at many reviews, youtube videos and comments. They all show an almost silent pump that's powerful. Sorry to hear your bad experience.


Never owned one since then. I sold it and the guy never had any complaints. I guess my acoustic capabilities are different







. Its a swell pump but I have give the advantage to the DDC pumps. Imho, the fad of the D5 comes in through the fact that you can dress it up and have a ton of accessories for it. I prefer the DDC. If someone is already decided on a D5, I wouldn't protest since its still a good pump. IF they haven't, my choice is DDC first







.

Damn ocn server is acting up again. Anyone else getting additional old quotes in their posts???


----------



## M3TAl

So Nidec actually makes the AP fans right? Scythe just markets/brands them for the everyday consumer? Couldn't Nidec make a deal with a different company and just brand them as something else? That way technically we can still have AP-15's.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Never owned one since then. I sold it and the guy never had any complaints. I guess my acoustic capabilities are different
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its a swell pump but I have give the advantage to the DDC pumps. Imho, the fad of the D5 comes in through the fact that you can dress it up and have a ton of accessories for it. I prefer the DDC. If someone is already decided on a D5, I wouldn't protest since its still a good pump. IF they haven't, my choice is DDC first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Damn ocn server is acting up again. Anyone else getting additional old quotes in their posts???


I just deleted all my cookies and rebooted cuz i thought it was just me =\
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> So Nidec actually makes the AP fans right? Scythe just markets/brands them for the everyday consumer? Couldn't Nidec make a deal with a different company and just brand them as something else? That way technically we can still have AP-15's.


Nidec makes them but i think it might be a split-patent. Nidec could probly tweak the packaging, lets hope they do
Dunno if it would be worth it from Nidec's perspective tho. They make ALOT of fans...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn ocn server is acting up again. Anyone else getting additional old quotes in their posts???


Nope but I really hope they get rid of that "Get notified when others reply: Immediately" thing by default. That has to be the most annoying thing I have ever seen on any forum.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nope but I really hope they get rid of that "Get notified when others reply: Immediately" thing by default. That has to be the most annoying thing I have ever seen on any forum.


This


----------



## skupples

hehe, I have about 20 brand new typhoons i'll never use, wonder if I should horde them or flip them in a few months when final stocks run out...

Luna, don't end up like me with 300$ of fittings you will never use.

I use my Overclocked account email for OCN so that my real email doesn't get spammed with update notes.


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't use my email for OCN anymore. I just use my Subscriptions page =P


----------



## wermad

I'm surprised no one has started a thread for grievance and support of the demise of GT fans


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm surprised no one has started a thread for grievance and support of the demise of GT fans


I doubt it would help if the Scythe & Nidec had a falling out. =\


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I doubt it would help if the Scythe & Nidec had a falling out. =\


Scythe: they must stay under 20$ a piece... Nidec: ONE MILLION DOLLARS


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I doubt it would help if the Scythe & Nidec had a falling out. =\


Someone started a news thread. Sob and rabble one there folks!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You spent $500 on a top end mobo, hundreds more on high end RAM, with hopes of getting the best clocks, . . . . While it may only mean a degree or two or three to use the regular Raystorm with the acrylic hold down, it just seems counter to your performance goals.
> 
> The Raystorm with acrylic hold down is really optimized for the 1155 size.
> 
> Darlene


With all I'm getting I honestly don't mind sacrificing 1-2 degrees for a bit of aesthetics, as I'd like it to look sexy too, I"m sure down the road I'll upgrade things months ahead but I honestly don't see myself going EXTREME OC'ing, as if I can hit 4.6-4.8 on my CPU I'd be happy w/ that. GPU Wise probably 1250-1300 about. Last time I upgraded was 2010 where I literally walked out to Sofmap and Yodobashi till I found the biggest case I could find at the time ( my Cosmos ) then bought a suitcase holder and stuck it on there and wheeled it back to the train to go home lol.

After that Flew back to the states for a bit to see family, and went to Fry's bought literally EVERYTHING that day lol

1200 Antec PSU
980X
Gigabyte X58-UD3R
2x Nvidia 470's
Kingston X 1866 Tri Channel Ram 12gb
3x 2 TB Hitachi's (60$ each on sale couldn't resist )
1x 2 TB Seagate 6gbs (my main drive as SSD's back then were insanely expensive )
V6 (or8) CPU Fan/heatsync

Was hilarious as I had the mobo/cpu/memory in my backpack and got stopped twice @ both airports and they had to bring out the scanners to verify I wasn't carrying a bomb lol.

Anywhoo looking to make this build as sexy as possible for my tastes / theme so yeah, I've been doing heavy research on most, juts haven't settled w/ the pumps/rad's yet so appreciate you stopping my shopping cart earlier lol.

Definitely am excited to start working on this though, as finals are all this week so I won't even have time till next week to even begin on this. SO wanting to get all my parts in line so I'm ready to start my build log next weekend.

Greatly appreciate everyones support thus far.

Kpoetig if you could pass me some ref links on amazon to the LED's you speaketh of if they're better than the PPC ones, so I can really light up the GPU/CPU sockets.










Also was thinking of adding a cross flow rad @ the bottom of my case on the mobo side, that way I'd have a clean getaway from the board and the CPU, though I may just drill a hole to get it over to the RAD on the other side.

Back on the spaghetti talk w/ Darlene







I hate thick tube as I think it look bad in cases, though I was contemplating on 10mm acrylic, though I'm looking for a size comparison currently and I do like the thinner ones as they look really sleek.

Would really appreciate some suggestions on fittings as well for these as I know I'll still minimize them, but still will need here and there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hehe, I have about 20 brand new typhoons i'll never use, wonder if I should horde them or flip them in a few months when final stocks run out...
> 
> Luna, don't end up like me with 300$ of fittings you will never use.
> 
> I use my Overclocked account email for OCN so that my real email doesn't get spammed with update notes.


at least you've got a spare right lol.

I also use a sep email for here , anytime I sign up for a site I just add it to that or if its important I just create a new email as I own quite a few domains to do so


----------



## p33k

Since there have been very few pictures the last many pages figured I would add a couple...
Put a 240mm on the bottom and moved my 120mm to the back. Mixed up some Mayhems UV White Pastel with some clear UV blue dye and blue dye. The color in person is a bit darker, more sky blue/blueberry like. My ocd is driving me crazy to fix the gpu wires but my procrastination side of me hasn't gotten around to it yet!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Since there have been very few pictures the last many pages figured I would add a couple...
> Put a 240mm on the bottom and moved my 120mm to the back. Mixed up some Mayhems UV White Pastel with some clear UV blue dye and blue dye. The color in person is a bit darker, more sky blue/blueberry like. My ocd is driving me crazy to fix the gpu wires but my procrastination side of me hasn't gotten around to it yet!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yay some pics for the gallery.
I think it looks great...always will have a soft spot for the S810.


----------



## LunaP

Found a site that's selling out fast on AP-15's they have 29 left should I grab em? Or are there better fans now for RAD's ? RAD's will be on top and bottom so it'll be horizontal.


----------



## M3TAl

Sounds to me like Scythe thinks their new Grand Flex fans will be the end all for fans so they said goodbye Nidec. That's complete speculation though. Maybe Nidec ended the partnership?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sounds to me like Scythe thinks their new Grand Flex fans will be the end all for fans so they said goodbye Nidec. That's complete speculation though. Maybe Nidec ended the partnership?


That's possible, though it's more likely that this has been in the works for awhile, so they have been working on a replacement, which is slightly less. The PWM model is only 15-16$. Also, they will never sound the same, i'll be a pessimist until some one comes forth with solid info on the flex.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Scythe-Grand-Flex-120,23787.html

they claim they are even quieter than previous generations, this I will have to see. I can barely hear 16 high speed [email protected] full blast.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sounds to me like Scythe thinks their new Grand Flex fans will be the end all for fans so they said goodbye Nidec. That's complete speculation though. Maybe Nidec ended the partnership?


I have my doubts it will be anywhere near as high quality. Of course they are going to push their new fans hard. GT's were the only real high quality fan they sold. They will have a huge void to fill.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have my doubts it will be anywhere near as high quality. Of course they are going to push their new fans hard. GT's were the only real high quality fan they sold. They will have a huge void to fill.


That's why I"m wondering should I just buy 32 GT's (AP-15's ) now or wait, or is there a new alternative to the 15's over the years?


----------



## M3TAl

Bold claims indeed. We will have to wait for some peoples' opinions around here and some testing from the likes of Martin.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> With all I'm getting I honestly don't mind sacrificing 1-2 degrees for a bit of aesthetics, as I'd like it to look sexy too, I"m sure down the road I'll upgrade things months ahead but I honestly don't see myself going EXTREME OC'ing, as if I can hit 4.6-4.8 on my CPU I'd be happy w/ that. GPU Wise probably 1250-1300 about. Last time I upgraded was 2010 where I literally walked out to Sofmap and Yodobashi till I found the biggest case I could find at the time ( my Cosmos ) then bought a suitcase holder and stuck it on there and wheeled it back to the train to go home lol.
> 
> After that Flew back to the states for a bit to see family, and went to Fry's bought literally EVERYTHING that day lol
> 
> 1200 Antec PSU
> 980X
> Gigabyte X58-UD3R
> 2x Nvidia 470's
> Kingston X 1866 Tri Channel Ram 12gb
> 3x 2 TB Hitachi's (60$ each on sale couldn't resist )
> 1x 2 TB Seagate 6gbs (my main drive as SSD's back then were insanely expensive )
> V6 (or8) CPU Fan/heatsync
> 
> Was hilarious as I had the mobo/cpu/memory in my backpack and got stopped twice @ both airports and they had to bring out the scanners to verify I wasn't carrying a bomb lol.
> 
> Anywhoo looking to make this build as sexy as possible for my tastes / theme so yeah, I've been doing heavy research on most, juts haven't settled w/ the pumps/rad's yet so appreciate you stopping my shopping cart earlier lol.
> 
> Definitely am excited to start working on this though, as finals are all this week so I won't even have time till next week to even begin on this. SO wanting to get all my parts in line so I'm ready to start my build log next weekend.
> 
> Greatly appreciate everyones support thus far.
> 
> Kpoetig if you could pass me some ref links on amazon to the LED's you speaketh of if they're better than the PPC ones, so I can really light up the GPU/CPU sockets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also was thinking of adding a cross flow rad @ the bottom of my case on the mobo side, that way I'd have a clean getaway from the board and the CPU, though I may just drill a hole to get it over to the RAD on the other side.
> 
> Back on the spaghetti talk w/ Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate thick tube as I think it look bad in cases, though I was contemplating on 10mm acrylic, though I'm looking for a size comparison currently and I do like the thinner ones as they look really sleek.
> 
> Would really appreciate some suggestions on fittings as well for these as I know I'll still minimize them, but still will need here and there.
> at least you've got a spare right lol.
> 
> I also use a sep email for here , anytime I sign up for a site I just add it to that or if its important I just create a new email as I own quite a few domains to do so


Omg i love sofmap. So clean and well layed out!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Bold claims indeed. We will have to wait for some peoples' opinions around here and some testing from the likes of Martin.


I'm going to guess that a new Nidec partnership will show up soon, ~20$ a piece fans. These new typhoon fans are a bit cheaper, the PWM is priced @ what the standard AP-15 would be priced at. Though, that may be due to the in house servo.

Luna- many of us are typhoon fan boys. I would grab them.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm going to guess that a new Nidec partnership will show up soon, ~20$ a piece fans. These new typhoon fans are a bit cheaper, the PWM is priced @ what the standard AP-15 would be priced at. Though, that may be due to the in house servo.
> 
> Luna- many of us are typhoon fan boys. I would grab them.


Kk Appreciate it, they still work w/ Fan controllers though right? like the Aqueros 6 or sunbeam?



All they had left in stock was initially 33 but after asking questions more purchased lol. Just need 9 more.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Kk Appreciate it, they still work w/ Fan controllers though right? like the Aqueros 6 or sunbeam?
> 
> 
> 
> All they had left in stock was initially 33 but after asking questions more purchased lol. Just need 9 more.


Yes, they will work just fine with fan controllers.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Since there have been very few pictures the last many pages figured I would add a couple...
> Put a 240mm on the bottom and moved my 120mm to the back. Mixed up some Mayhems UV White Pastel with some clear UV blue dye and blue dye. The color in person is a bit darker, more sky blue/blueberry like. My ocd is driving me crazy to fix the gpu wires but my procrastination side of me hasn't gotten around to it yet!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now this is sexy! Love the UV, the neatness, and the parallel WC'd GPU's. Good job!


----------



## Solonowarion

Not sure if already posted but $13 ap-15s 1850 rpm. free shipping within US.

http://aaawave.com/p-15874-scythe-d1225c12b5ap-15-gentle-typhoon-120mm-fans-1850rpm.aspx?gclid=CJORzrO2qbsCFSISMwod4XMA6g


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Not sure if already posted but $13 ap-15s 1850 rpm. free shipping within US.
> 
> http://aaawave.com/p-15874-scythe-d1225c12b5ap-15-gentle-typhoon-120mm-fans-1850rpm.aspx?gclid=CJORzrO2qbsCFSISMwod4XMA6g


You couldn't have posted that 6 hours earlier when I bought 6 from FrozenCPU and paid out the behind for them??


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Not sure if already posted but $13 ap-15s 1850 rpm. free shipping within US.
> 
> http://aaawave.com/p-15874-scythe-d1225c12b5ap-15-gentle-typhoon-120mm-fans-1850rpm.aspx?gclid=CJORzrO2qbsCFSISMwod4XMA6g


for me it say 15.99????


----------



## Solonowarion

What the heck! I just got 6 for 13 a few hours ago. Must have just changed it when news started to circulate.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> What the heck! I just got 6 for 13 a few hours ago. Must have just changed it when news started to circulate.


I bought 23 at the time, though there were 29 when I first clicked the link that was posted in the other thread lol, stock was dropping fast so I had to hence the photo I posted further up lol.


----------



## djinferno806

Just rebuilt my loop into a 900D,

Went from this in my P280,



To this,





Then I got sick of the 5.25 bay res and pump combo noise due to vibrations, so I grabbed an XSPC Photon 170 and D5 Pump top and moved everything deep inside.

I also arranged the tubing differently as I didnt like the long runs before. Not quite sure if I want to change it up again though, the stupid CSQ VGA block is really screwing up the tubing not having regular holes like ALL friggin blocks should. Also I didnt want to use any right angle adapters due to flow restriction and such so I had to run some tubing a little longer than I had liked again.

What do you guys think.





Love that new res though, its gorgeous!


----------



## szeged

when my latest shipment of ap-15s arrive im gonna try to take a pic of all 50 stacked in 1 row, see if they can get taller than me


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> when my latest shipment of ap-15s arrive im gonna try to take a pic of all 50 stacked in 1 row, see if they can get taller than me


I'm sure you'll do this as well


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm sure you'll do this as well


rofl







you know it







waiting on monstas arrive so i can stuff the sth10 and make it cry.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> rofl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you know it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waiting on monstas arrive so i can stuff the sth10 and make it cry.


Working on my order now, I still have the same amount of goods in the basket just removed the pump since a debate started, gonna look more into it as I want one thats silent enough and no vibrations in the case, and honestly want the quietest case possible, as of now my h90 is just loud as heck w/ it's 2 fans lol. I miss the first time I turned on my rig back in 2010 before a closed loop or anything and couldn't even tell if it was on or not, then saw the screen pop up , it was beautiful









Hoping to experience that again w/ these fans / RAD's

Could definitely use assistance though w/ my order.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Working on my order now, I still have the same amount of goods in the basket just removed the pump since a debate started, gonna look more into it as I want one thats silent enough and no vibrations in the case, and honestly want the quietest case possible, as of now my h90 is just loud as heck w/ it's 2 fans lol. I miss the first time I turned on my rig back in 2010 before a closed loop or anything and couldn't even tell if it was on or not, then saw the screen pop up , it was beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to experience that again w/ these fans / RAD's
> 
> Could definitely use assistance though w/ my order.


well personally i always get D5 pumps since i dont do SFF builds and usually have 4+ thick rads, 3+ blocks, trillions of angle fittings etc etc so i want the assurance that the d5 gives to get the water from point A to point B lol.

also, upgrade those ut60's to Monstas imo









and 1/2 x 3/4 tubing lol


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well personally i always get D5 pumps since i dont do SFF builds and usually have 4+ thick rads, 3+ blocks, trillions of angle fittings etc etc so i want the assurance that the d5 gives to get the water from point A to point B lol.
> 
> also, upgrade those ut60's to Monstas imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *and 1/2 x 3/4 tubing lol*


any chance you have a size comparison chart or pics of how that size is in a case? I like the thinner ones but not crazy thin.

Also I thought the UT60's WERE monstas LOL, I need to take measurements to ensure 80's would fit, and are they 80's higher or lower FPI? or w/ the GT's it shouldn't matter? Gonna make measurements on power cables too since I"m gonna buy prof sleeved mixed verisons (black/red)


----------



## kpoeticg

Luna, buddy we've been through this.

Monsta = like 86mm thick
UT60 = like 60mm thick

Everything else is EXACTLY the same on the 2 rads


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Luna, buddy we've been through this.
> 
> Monsta = like 86mm thick
> UT60 = like 60mm thick
> 
> Everything else is EXACTLY the same on the 2 rads


Lol wut no I know the thickness I meant measuring in my case Lol. And yeah thicker woukd dissipate more heat though wouldnt that require more RPM? I.e. louder fans ?


----------



## Anoxy

monsta swag


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> any chance you have a size comparison chart or pics of how that size is in a case? I like the thinner ones but not crazy thin.
> 
> Also I thought the UT60's WERE monstas LOL, I need to take measurements to ensure 80's would fit, and are they 80's higher or lower FPI? or w/ the GT's it shouldn't matter? Gonna make measurements on power cables too since I"m gonna buy prof sleeved mixed verisons (black/red)


this is what 1/2 x 3/4 looks in my 900D, notice how the ph of the water ate my red dye and turned it a sickly orange?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol wut no I know the thickness I meant measuring in my case Lol. And yeah thicker woukd dissipate more heat though wouldnt that require more RPM? I.e. louder fans ?


^^That's what i was responding to

The FPI is the same. Only difference is the thickness. Monsta's are friggin HUGE
And yeah, that's why UT60's usually test better against a wider RPM range. But Monsta's have more cooling area

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Also I thought the UT60's WERE monstas LOL, I need to take measurements to ensure 80's would fit, and are they 80's higher or lower FPI? or w/ the GT's it shouldn't matter?


^^That's what i was referring to. OCN's been messing with my quotes today


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> this is what 1/2 x 3/4 looks in my 900D, notice how the ph of the water ate my red dye and turned it a sickly orange?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks kind of cool though









Jeffinslaw


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ^^That's what i was responding to
> 
> The FPI is the same. Only difference is the thickness. Monsta's are friggin HUGE
> And yeah, that's why UT60's usually test better against a wider RPM range. But Monsta's have more cooling area
> 
> Edit:
> ^^That's what i was referring to. OCN's been messing with my quotes today


Ahh, funny too I was about to pull the trigger on a box of NB's 1900's earlier in white as that'd be pretty sexy on them but since that 13$ treasure trove of AP-15's popped up in the other thread, couldn't help myself after asking a few times lol. Somewhat debating canceling and going NB's but from the amount of attention the AP-15's get, I don't think I really have much to worry about









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> this is what 1/2 x 3/4 looks in my 900D, notice how the ph of the water ate my red dye and turned it a sickly orange?


Appreciate it, and I'm liking the 1/2 better since it's smaller , curious what the 3/8 would look like, and wouldn't you need to add just a bit more dye ? or which are you using?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ahh, funny too I was about to pull the trigger on a box of NB's 1900's earlier in white as that'd be pretty sexy on them but since that 13$ treasure trove of AP-15's popped up in the other thread, couldn't help myself after asking a few times lol. Somewhat debating canceling and going NB's but from the amount of attention the AP-15's get, I don't think I really have much to worry about


you cant go wrong either way, except the eloops cost an arm and a leg lol.


----------



## X-oiL

I got 90mm space to fit either a 3x120 or 3x140.

What would you go for 30mm rad p/p (80mm total) or 30-60mm and only push fans.

If I go with the UT60 plus a push fan that's 85mm = 5mm left until it touches my GPUs. Will it be too tight?


----------



## brandon6199

Thoughts on my first attempt at water-cooling thus far?


----------



## kpoeticg

P/P pretty much always dissipates more heat than a thicker rad in push

brandon, looks great!!
I noticed that you just unplugged your other rad for now


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> you cant go wrong either way, except the eloops cost an arm and a leg lol.


http://www.xoxide.com/noiseblockernb-eloopb12-42400rpm120-25ubb-fan.html?gclid=CKbzjZOaqrsCFWRBQgod4UoA2A

Crazy specs though and very sexy, curious if they come in other colors.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> P/P pretty much always dissipates more heat than a thicker rad in push
> 
> brandon, looks great!!
> I noticed that you just unplugged your other rad for now


what about a thicker rad in P/P


----------



## p5ych00n5

New Board, new loop layout, was aiming for no tubing crossover. So voila


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> P/P pretty much always dissipates more heat than a thicker rad in push
> 
> brandon, looks great!!
> I noticed that you just unplugged your other rad for now


Thank you!









Yep... just waiting for an additional fitting to arrive


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts on my first attempt at water-cooling thus far?


Nice, is that acrylic tubes?

I really need to stop coming into these threads...making me get more impatience for my watercooling stuff to get here.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ahh, funny too I was about to pull the trigger on a box of NB's 1900's earlier in white as that'd be pretty sexy on them but since that 13$ treasure trove of AP-15's popped up in the other thread, couldn't help myself after asking a few times lol. Somewhat debating canceling and going NB's but from the amount of attention the AP-15's get, I don't think I really have much to worry about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate it, and I'm liking the 1/2 better since it's smaller , curious what the 3/8 would look like, and wouldn't you need to add just a bit more dye ? or which are you using?


Can't go wrong with GT's. Definitely might as well grab the GT's while they're still around.
Also, 3/8 would look ridiculous in your rig. DON't go 3/8. Like IT DIVA said, it'll look like spaghetti noodles.


----------



## Ithanul

Dang it, double post.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Nice, is that acrylic tubes?
> 
> I really need to stop coming into these threads...making me get more impatience for my watercooling stuff to get here.


Thanks! Nope. just PrimoChill LRT Pro 1/2 x 3/4


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Can't go wrong with GT's. Definitely might as well grab the GT's while they're still around.
> Also, 3/8 would look ridiculous in your rig. DON't go 3/8. Like IT DIVA said, it'll look like spaghetti noodles.


Meh lol what's the 1/2 equiv in Acrylic ? 12 mm? I'm busting out the MM -> Inches calculator and running measurements as we speak and kinda panning it out gonna put some clear holders (mini shelves) inside the case too for my theme. I have a feeling the TH10 is gonna look small after I'm done lol


----------



## kpoeticg

Acrylic really isn't the same. 12mm is the 1/2 equivalent. But in a giant rig like u have, you should probly go 16mm

1in = 25.4mm


----------



## LiquidHaus

This recent talk of Monstas reminds me of a picture I saw last year in this thread that really displayed how ridiculously big (and awesome) the radiators are lol


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Acrylic really isn't the same. 12mm is the 1/2 equivalent. But in a giant rig like u have, you should probly go 16mm
> 
> 1in = 25.4mm


It's not that much bigger taller than my cosmos so it's not gonna look THAT small lol it's still fairly sized inside since its double wide.

Yep just measured 4 inches to the board from the bottom but 8 from the top to the board, so maybe a 60 on the bottom and 80's on the top.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> This recent talk of Monstas reminds me of a picture I saw last year in this thread that really displayed how ridiculously big (and awesome) the radiators are lol


I remmeber this panda build log well lol. Was gorgeous in the end.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> any chance you have a size comparison chart or pics of how that size is in a case? I like the thinner ones but not crazy thin.


I took this pic a while back when I was getting tubing organized for the RD-30 pump.
3/8 x 5/8 on the far right and next to that is 1/2 x 3/4.



I ended up using the 1" ID on the right for inlet to the pump.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thanks! Nope. just PrimoChill LRT Pro 1/2 x 3/4


Very nice then.







My rig got some old school PrimoChill in it when I went watercool for first time. They have held up for two years straight. Now onto acrylic Primochill tubing. Oooooo, I can't wait! My watercooling stuff comes in today!


----------



## wermad

Ahem:


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ahem:


you could get lost in there


----------



## kpoeticg

I know for a fact, if i was a little kid, that would be my favorite hiding spot in the whole house


----------



## LunaP

Digging those perfect square PSU's almost tempted to swap out my 1200AXi for 2x eVGA 1300 G2's

Measuring my cables as PPC has them in 8" 16" and 24" so I know what to get unless I can only get the corsair cables for this, or can I grab the bitspower ones too?


----------



## kpoeticg

Can always sleeve your own


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Can always sleeve your own


To lazy and the cost off set of just buying them up front isn't worth it imo lol, to much to plan for currently, its the one thing I don't mind grabbing premade. PPC has some nice ones but looking around as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I never used a D5 personally, so just know from reading
> I thought the standard Vario was a 5 Speed Pot....
> I know the AC D5 is infinite control. The regular Vario's infinite too?
> 
> 
> 
> Completely the same. The USB pump is just a D5 vario with a digital potentiometer rather than a manual dial. A vario can be converted to USB and Vice versa. Because they both use the same circuit board internally both just vary from 1800 to 4800 RPM
> 
> Here is one I prepared earlier. Koolance D5 vario converted to USB, the MPS board just wires to the same contacts as the manual pot.
Click to expand...

Does this witchcraft work on the Strong as well?


----------



## kpoeticg

I read a thread on that on maybe like xtremesystems (or another forum) a while back. It seems to only work on the Vario. But u need to have the AC D5 PCB to do it i think. And the thread i read it from looked like AC stopped selling the PCB by itself for obvious reasons

Edit: NVM it was overclockers.com. HERE'S the link


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I'm in beeeeaaaatch mode for a moment more, . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're going for the Raystorm, be sure to get the aluminum hold down for use on a 2011 socket.
> 
> Unfortunately, that shoots having the leds in it, but it controls the curve so it mates better to the IHS.
> 
> Or just get an EK Supremacy and you can have the LEDs.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Awww but the leds were amazing lol I like the outline vs how the ek blocks are tbh. No way around it ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You spent $500 on a top end mobo, hundreds more on high end RAM, with hopes of getting the best clocks, . . . . While it may only mean a degree or two or three to use the regular Raystorm with the acrylic hold down, it just seems counter to your performance goals.
> 
> The Raystorm with acrylic hold down is really optimized for the 1155 size.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

This,the acrylic mount does flex and cracks have been reported...Alu is the way to go I think...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This,the acrylic mount does flex and cracks have been reported...Alu is the way to go I think...


Is this about the top part of Raystorm? I just want to know for sure since I have a Raystorm on order.


----------



## ozzy1925

last week i asked if we can use Noiseblocker e-loops as push and pull here is the offical answer:


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> last week i asked if we can use Noiseblocker e-loops as push and pull here is the offical answer:


Also on the e-loop home page:

When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?

This is due to aerodynamics, simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessoires) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimised for.

http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Also on the e-loop home page:
> 
> When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?
> 
> This is due to aerodynamics, simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessoires) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimised for.
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8


so typhoon ap 15 is the best radiator fan for push and pull?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> so typhoon ap 15 is the best radiator fan for push and pull?


It's my and a lot of others favorite for performance


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> so typhoon ap 15 is the best radiator fan for push and pull?


That's pretty much the general consensus. They're probably going to sell out quick since they've been discontinued so if that's what you want to go with I'd place the order somewhat soon.

Is the OCN server acting real weird for anyone else? I keeps trying to submit my posts and won't until I reload the page and submit again


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Better get on the AP-15's soon there gonna sell out everywhere quick









morencyam Im having the same problem getting really annoying


----------



## sebar

Whats up y'all, I recently finished uyp my corsair 350D build I am calling Close Quarters and wanted to share it here.

Final specifications are as follows:
CPU - Intel 2600K CPU
Motherboard - Asus Maximus IV Gene Z Gen 3
RAM - Corsair Vengeance low profile RAM 1600MHz 9-9-9-24 1.5v
Video Card - MSI R6950
PSU - Corsair AX850 PSU
SSD - Corsair Force 3 SSD (60GB) for OS & Kingston HyperX SSD (120GB) for Storage
Fans - 4 x Akasa Apache Black 140mm

Water cooling components include
Alphacool XT45 280 mm radiator
Alphacool UT60 280 mm radiator
Custom made acrylic CPU water block
Swiftech MCP655 pump with Bitspower mod kit and D5 Mod Pump Top V2
Black acetyl push fittings for 10 mm OD rigid tubing
Custom made acrylic reservoir


----------



## Fanboy88

Wow sebar that is so awesome.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Better get on the AP-15's soon there gonna sell out everywhere quick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> morencyam Im having the same problem getting really annoying


Glad it's not just me. I cleared my cookies and reset browser history and such and that seems to have helped a little bit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Whats up y'all, I recently finished uyp my corsair 350D build I am calling Close Quarters and wanted to share it here.
> 
> Final specifications are as follows:
> CPU - Intel 2600K CPU
> Motherboard - Asus Maximus IV Gene Z Gen 3
> RAM - Corsair Vengeance low profile RAM 1600MHz 9-9-9-24 1.5v
> Video Card - MSI R6950
> PSU - Corsair AX850 PSU
> SSD - Corsair Force 3 SSD (60GB) for OS & Kingston HyperX SSD (120GB) for Storage
> Fans - 4 x Akasa Apache Black 140mm
> 
> Water cooling components include
> Alphacool XT45 280 mm radiator
> Alphacool UT60 280 mm radiator
> Custom made acrylic CPU water block
> Swiftech MCP655 pump with Bitspower mod kit and D5 Mod Pump Top V2
> Black acetyl push fittings for 10 mm OD rigid tubing
> Custom made acrylic reservoir
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a real interesting reservoir. I think I like it. Tubing and all that extra copper look real nice. Not sure how I feel about all that wrap though.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fanboy88*
> 
> Wow sebar that is so awesome.


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Glad it's not just me. I cleared my cookies and reset browser history and such and that seems to have helped a little bit.
> That's a real interesting reservoir. I think I like it. Tubing and all that extra copper look real nice. Not sure how I feel about all that wrap though.


Thanks, It is not a wrap. I painted this snake skin patern using a black PlastiDip base coat and Jade Krylon for the snake skin patern. I Made the reservoir for this build because I was having trouble fitting a tube res in the front.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Also on the e-loop home page:
> 
> When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?
> 
> This is due to aerodynamics, simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessoires) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimised for.


Now I understand why the sound of the eLoops is okay on my AX240, while other people are experiencing a nasty drone noise.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Thanks
> Thanks, *It is not a wrap. I painted this snake skin patern using a black PlastiDip base coat and Jade Krylon for the snake skin patern.* I Made the reservoir for this build because I was having trouble fitting a tube res in the front.


Hand painted!? Damn, that must have taken forever!


----------



## X-oiL

What do you think will look best in this case  I have 90mm max width in the front to work it before i hit the GPUs.

1, A thin 360 rad
2, A thin 420 rad
3, A thick 360 rad
4, A thick 420 rad

Personally i think i thin 420 rad but i know this is OCN so bigger is better right?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Hand painted!? Damn, that must have taken forever!


It did not take as long as you would think. I did not need to worry about all the prep work that normally goes into painting a case no sanding, no priming, no clear coat. I probably could have spent a lot of time to make it perfect but I wanted it to look rugged and not uniform, kind of like the skin of a dragon.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have 2 rad. one is UT60 and other is ST30. how do I connect both radiator together?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have 2 rad. one is UT60 and other is ST30. how do I connect both radiator together?


Do you have a picture of where the two rads will be positioned in the case? and I'm not totally sure what you mean by how to connect the two. Um, with fittings and tubing?







Here is what I did with my Swiftech 360mm rad and my Monsta 240mm rad. You could do something similar pretending the Swiftech is the ST30 and the Monsta is the UT60. That UT60 has six different possible configuration of where you want the inlet and outlet.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have 2 rad. one is UT60 and other is ST30. how do I connect both radiator together?


With tubing? Not really sure what you are trying to ask. Maybe a picture would help us understand better what you are trying to do


----------



## rickyman0319

the case is Caselab M8. I will put it inside the pedestal.


----------



## VSG

Build update: FrozenQ reservoir tested. It doesn't fit in perfectly with my color scheme anymore but I would rather have this than wait for another 2-3 months.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This,the acrylic mount does flex and cracks have been reported...Alu is the way to go I think...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Is this about the top part of Raystorm? I just want to know for sure since I have a Raystorm on order.


And theres no way to get the LEDs to work once you apply the block







?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Build update: FrozenQ reservoir tested. It doesn't fit in perfectly with my color scheme anymore but I would rather have this than wait for another 2-3 months.


I think it looks pretty good in there! Its like the energy source in all of the darkness..


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> And theres no way to get the LEDs to work once you apply the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Unfortunately not.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This,the acrylic mount does flex and cracks have been reported...Alu is the way to go I think...
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Is this about the top part of Raystorm? I just want to know for sure since I have a Raystorm on order.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And theres no way to get the LEDs to work once you apply the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
Click to expand...

Nada,

There's 3 parts to the Raystorm assembly, the waterblock itself, the hold down bracket, the part with 4 mounting ears that goes around the block and is held in place by the retention hardware, and the trim piece on the top of the bracket.

Most often you see the Raystorm with the acrylic hold down bracket that has the little holes for the leds.

It looks really nice and lights up around the perimeter of the top trim piece.

We are talking about using the solid aluminum bracket option in place of the acrylic one, so that you get better mating of the waterblock face to the CPU on 2011 size chips.

It comes in black and aluminum color, and has different colored trim plates to accent it if you want.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16258/ex-blc-1136/XSPC_Aluminum_Black_Edition_Mounting_Bracket_-_Intel_Raystorm_CPU_Block.html#blank

http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-Aluminium-Bracket-Black-Intel-115x-1366-and-2011_38652.html

http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-Aluminium-Bracket-Intel_25416.html

http://shop.xs-pc.com/d/CPU-Waterblocks_683.html


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Build update: FrozenQ reservoir tested. It doesn't fit in perfectly with my color scheme anymore but I would rather have this than wait for another 2-3 months.


man thats a huge res!!! whats the ML on that puppy?? i love the frozen Q's so much its too bad about the fores in his shop







we would be lost without him


----------



## VSG

I think it's 400 ml. I added in a valve between the res and pump so I wouldn't have to drain the res if I see a leak in the loop.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nada,
> 
> There's 3 parts to the Raystorm assembly, the waterblock itself, the hold down bracket, the part with 4 mounting ears that goes around the block and is held in place by the retention hardware, and the trim piece on the top of the bracket.
> 
> Most often you see the Raystorm with the acrylic hold down bracket that has the little holes for the leds.
> 
> It looks really nice and lights up around the perimeter of the top trim piece.
> 
> We are talking about using the solid aluminum bracket option in place of the acrylic one, so that you get better mating of the waterblock face to the CPU on 2011 size chips.
> 
> It comes in black and aluminum color, and has different colored trim plates to accent it if you want.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16258/ex-blc-1136/XSPC_Aluminum_Black_Edition_Mounting_Bracket_-_Intel_Raystorm_CPU_Block.html#blank
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-Aluminium-Bracket-Black-Intel-115x-1366-and-2011_38652.html
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-Aluminium-Bracket-Intel_25416.html
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/d/CPU-Waterblocks_683.html


Appreciate it but the whole point was for the aesthetics, and I'm not liking EK's square glowing block, are there any other CPU blocks out there that light up or am I SOL? Kinda puts a damper on things since I was grabbing the Razor's









Appreciate the information though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nada,
> 
> There's 3 parts to the Raystorm assembly, the waterblock itself, the hold down bracket, the part with 4 mounting ears that goes around the block and is held in place by the retention hardware, and the trim piece on the top of the bracket.
> 
> Most often you see the Raystorm with the acrylic hold down bracket that has the little holes for the leds.
> 
> It looks really nice and lights up around the perimeter of the top trim piece.
> 
> We are talking about using the solid aluminum bracket option in place of the acrylic one, so that you get better mating of the waterblock face to the CPU on 2011 size chips.
> 
> It comes in black and aluminum color, and has different colored trim plates to accent it if you want.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16258/ex-blc-1136/XSPC_Aluminum_Black_Edition_Mounting_Bracket_-_Intel_Raystorm_CPU_Block.html#blank
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-Aluminium-Bracket-Black-Intel-115x-1366-and-2011_38652.html
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-Aluminium-Bracket-Intel_25416.html
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/d/CPU-Waterblocks_683.html
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate it but the whole point was for the aesthetics, and I'm not liking EK's square glowing block, are there any other CPU blocks out there that light up or am I SOL? Kinda puts a damper on things since I was grabbing the Razor's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate the information though.
Click to expand...

Nothing to stop you getting a custom mount made up,they are really simple to machine........


----------



## Egami

I don't know about you guys but EK sure knows how to rub my aesthetics gland

















And an endless sea of fittings


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nothing to stop you getting a custom mount made up,they are really simple to machine........


I've no experience and don't know of any fabrication shops that would take a small order like that unless theres a section here on OCN for it, in which I'd gladly pay.

If not am I really going to notice the difference if I just keep it as is?


----------



## lvlrdka22

I've posted this in SFF club thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lvlrdka22*
> 
> Well, decided to see what the fuss acrylic tubing was all about.
> Also swapped out for an i5 3570k and a reference 7950 with full cover block, and added the last radiator in.
> The damn 120mm fan wouldn't fit because of the memory slot, so I had to use a 100mm instead, oh well. 100mm push/pull it is then, with pull to come later.
> 
> 
> Yes, I'm too lazy to do bends with the tubing.
> I prefer as close to perfection as I can, without the work, and I like fittings anyways.


How it looks with all the spaghetti back in.


Currently priming at 4.8 at 1.34-1.36V, max temperature 76C (ranges from low 60s to mid 70s depending on the test), not delidded. This should be at least 12 hours prime stable now, since last time it crashed at 11 hours at two VIDs below.
I think I'll not bother with delidding.


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> I don't know about you guys but EK sure knows how to rub my aesthetics gland


I'm gonna polish my 670 block


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I'm gonna polish my 670 block


It is WELL worth the effort. Makes it look much much better in my opinion.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> I don't know about you guys but EK sure knows how to rub my aesthetics gland
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And an endless sea of fittings


If you're into that kind of thing. I still prefer the old "classic" design myself.


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Whats up y'all, I recently finished uyp my corsair 350D build I am calling Close Quarters and wanted to share it here.
> 
> Final specifications are as follows:
> CPU - Intel 2600K CPU
> Motherboard - Asus Maximus IV Gene Z Gen 3
> RAM - Corsair Vengeance low profile RAM 1600MHz 9-9-9-24 1.5v
> Video Card - MSI R6950
> PSU - Corsair AX850 PSU
> SSD - Corsair Force 3 SSD (60GB) for OS & Kingston HyperX SSD (120GB) for Storage
> Fans - 4 x Akasa Apache Black 140mm
> 
> Water cooling components include
> Alphacool XT45 280 mm radiator
> Alphacool UT60 280 mm radiator
> Custom made acrylic CPU water block
> Swiftech MCP655 pump with Bitspower mod kit and D5 Mod Pump Top V2
> Black acetyl push fittings for 10 mm OD rigid tubing
> Custom made acrylic reservoir






You need a bigger window ASAP bro. That little thing does not show nearly enough of the inner goodness.


----------



## Snyderman34

Here's a question: what is a good fan controller (possibly a pump control as well)? I don't have enough headers on my mobo for 6 fans (5 for rads), and the current one I have makes my Helix fans whine something awful. Will probably grab 3 more Helix fans (since I already have 2), so if there's a controller that can run 5 fans + let me control the pump (if needed), that would be perfect (will probably end up with an EK D5 pump).

Also, what's the best way to add a drain line? Right now it's either keep a 240 in the front of my Air 540 with the ports down and add one there, or put a 360 up front and attach a drain line to one of the outs on the pump. I don't want to cut a hole in the case (which I would have to do with the 360 rad unless I have to).


----------



## kpoeticg

Aquaero 6


----------



## morencyam

I love my Lamptron Fan Controller Touch. It has 30W per channel so it can handle multiple fans per channel. I have 4 channels running 4 fan on each. The new Lamptron CW611 looks real nice too and has a designated channel for pumps. The Aquero 5/6 are also very popular and have a ton of features, but are pricey.

PS please use spoilers when quoting multiple pictures


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Aquaero 6


 Dat price. lol. Looks sweet though. Any cheaper alternatives? Say, $100 or so? Not opposed to grabbing that one if it's worth it though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I love my Lamptron Fan Controller Touch. It has 30W per channel so it can handle multiple fans per channel. I have 4 channels running 4 fan on each. The new Lamptron CW611 looks real nice too and has a designated channel for pumps. The Aquero 5/6 are also very popular and have a ton of features, but are pricey.
> 
> PS please use spoilers when quoting multiple pictures


That looks good as well. Thinking that CW611 may be exactly what I need. I'll look into that. Thanks all!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Dat price. lol. Looks sweet though. Any cheaper alternatives? Say, $100 or so? Not opposed to grabbing that one if it's worth it though.


I'd say it's WELL worth it!


----------



## kpoeticg

Well it's DEF worth it. But there's also cheaper alternatives. Like a Lamptron or even the Aquaero 5
There's nothing quite like the Aquaero tho


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Whats up y'all, I recently finished uyp my corsair 350D build I am calling Close Quarters and wanted to share it here.
> 
> Final specifications are as follows:
> CPU - Intel 2600K CPU
> Motherboard - Asus Maximus IV Gene Z Gen 3
> RAM - Corsair Vengeance low profile RAM 1600MHz 9-9-9-24 1.5v
> Video Card - MSI R6950
> PSU - Corsair AX850 PSU
> SSD - Corsair Force 3 SSD (60GB) for OS & Kingston HyperX SSD (120GB) for Storage
> Fans - 4 x Akasa Apache Black 140mm
> 
> Water cooling components include
> Alphacool XT45 280 mm radiator
> Alphacool UT60 280 mm radiator
> Custom made acrylic CPU water block
> Swiftech MCP655 pump with Bitspower mod kit and D5 Mod Pump Top V2
> Black acetyl push fittings for 10 mm OD rigid tubing
> Custom made acrylic reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need a bigger window ASAP bro. That little thing does not show nearly enough of the inner goodness.
Click to expand...

What you need to do is spoiler your pics,only one or two need to be unspoilered please.
This thread gets full of pic walls for the same rig otherwise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Here's a question: what is a good fan controller (possibly a pump control as well)? I don't have enough headers on my mobo for 6 fans (5 for rads), and the current one I have makes my Helix fans whine something awful. Will probably grab 3 more Helix fans (since I already have 2), so if there's a controller that can run 5 fans + let me control the pump (if needed), that would be perfect (will probably end up with an EK D5 pump).
> 
> Also, what's the best way to add a drain line? Right now it's either keep a 240 in the front of my Air 540 with the ports down and add one there, or put a 360 up front and attach a drain line to one of the outs on the pump. I don't want to cut a hole in the case (which I would have to do with the 360 rad unless I have to).


XT5 or 6.
Lamptron CW611.
Lamptron FC5
Or go PWM.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I'm gonna polish my 670 block


I was thinking of doing the same but with an all white build and DI the blocks might just end up looking quite spiffy as they are. Test fitting will tell for sure.


----------



## gdubc

Anyone out there running a mips iceforce block still? Thinking of picking one up for my mvf build. Its either that or maybe a supremacy? Any suggestions? I already have the mips nickel/acetal blocks for the mosfets and chipset as I loved those. Im just not as sold on the cpu block just yet....


----------



## MrStrat007

Slight off topic question here guys - I'm about to place an order for some water cooling stuffs at Frozencpu and they mention under the shipping box duties and import taxes, etc. Does anybody know roughly how gouging these tend to be shipping to Canada (UPS vs. USPS)? Thanks all!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Anyone out there running a mips iceforce block still? Thinking of picking one up for my mvf build. Its either that or maybe a supremacy? Any suggestions? I already have the mips nickel/acetal blocks for the mosfets and chipset as I loved those. Im just not as sold on the cpu block just yet....


I love my MIPs Iceforce. A very beautiful CPU block indeed.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Anyone out there running a mips iceforce block still? Thinking of picking one up for my mvf build. Its either that or maybe a supremacy? Any suggestions? I already have the mips nickel/acetal blocks for the mosfets and chipset as I loved those. Im just not as sold on the cpu block just yet....
> 
> 
> 
> I love my MIPs Iceforce. A very beautiful CPU block indeed.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

+1

MIPS is <3


----------



## LunaP

Ok good news, I sent an email to XSPC asking for any updates for future platings on the Raystorm as I didn't want to loose the acrylic for LED's while installing the aluminum bracket for heat purposes and Paul was quick to respond.

"Hi,
You won't really gain any performance by going with the aluminium bracket, so pick the on that you prefer the look of."










Also after some measuring the bottom area for the TH10 on both sides wouldn't be able to fit a push/pull I don't think on the Monsta's 86mm but w/ the UT60's shouldn't be an issue as I'm about half an inch out of room on these. That way I don't have 2x 86mm's and 2x 60's would be just as easy. Though just to confirm would there be a noticeable diff or?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Slight off topic question here guys - I'm about to place an order for some water cooling stuffs at Frozencpu and they mention under the shipping box duties and import taxes, etc. Does anybody know roughly how gouging these tend to be shipping to Canada (UPS vs. USPS)? Thanks all!


You should check out DazMode. They're located in canada and have a pretty great selection. He also makes Darkside Sleeving which is top-quality

Luna, P/P on a UT60 will give u better cooling than Push on a Monsta.
Also, I'd probly take IT DIVA's word over XSPC's customer support. That's just me personally tho....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You should check out DazMode. They're located in canada and have a pretty great selection. He also makes Darkside Sleeving which is top-quality
> 
> Luna, P/P on a UT60 will give u better cooling than Push on a Monsta.
> Also, I'd probly take IT DIVA's word over XSPC's customer support. That's just me personally tho....


Further measurements show I have 6.1" of clearance from the ground to the power supply.

If the 86mm = 3.3" and each fan is about 1" in thickness I'll have about 1/2" left give or take of space so tchnically I COULD get 3x monsta's in push / pull.

Only issue left is the motherboard side. It's 4 1/2" to the mem BUT its like 1-2cm's of room away from the RAM sticks so MAY be able to pull this off, wish the board was able to be centered though.

And yeah I'd trust Darlene myself over many things though if its just 1-2 degrees in temp then I don't honestly mind for the aesthetics since that's what we sacrifice sometimes.

Dang that's a LOT of top head room LOL. I think i'll push 4x monstas and see where it lands me.


----------



## kpoeticg

Do what u want, but i promise you, P/P UT60 will dissipate more watts than Push Monsta.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I want a MIPS block for my MVE since it is only copper motherboard block for my board, but I can't find one anywhere. People bought up the last of them after MIPS died I guess :-( I'm running a full copper loop and will be damned if I add the Nickel EK MVE block! GIVE ME YOUR MIPS PEOPLE! MIPS MIPS MIPS!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Do what u want, but i promise you, P/P UT60 will dissipate more watts than Push Monsta.


Wait wut no I said P/P Monsta vs P/P UT60 Lol since I remeasured it, just .5" clearance. (if I go monstas)


----------



## kpoeticg

oooooooooooooh. Apologies. I musta misread


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts on my first attempt at water-cooling thus far?


What fans are those up front?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Does this witchcraft work on the Strong as well?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I read a thread on that on maybe like xtremesystems (or another forum) a while back. It seems to only work on the Vario. But u need to have the AC D5 PCB to do it i think. And the thread i read it from looked like AC stopped selling the PCB by itself for obvious reasons
> 
> Edit: NVM it was overclockers.com. HERE'S the link


Yeah its only the Vario unfortunately. I had thought the D5 Basic might work too but I'm fairly sure now that the newest revision of the pump circuit boards don't allow it.

I had tried to keep it a little under wraps, but people went and asked about it all over the Aquacomputer forum so no more MPS PCB's for anyone








At the very least though if you can find a cheap second hand MPS device you can rip the mps board out and use it, and also once you have an mps board if anything happens to your pump you can just buy a new vario and transfer the mps board onto it rather than buying a new USB pump.


----------



## kpoeticg

It'll work with any MPS board? Not just the AC D5 board?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What fans are those up front?


Look like Noiseblocker BlackSilentPro's maybe...


----------



## Jakusonfire

As far as I know any mps device uses the same board.


----------



## kpoeticg

Nice, didn't know that. Thought u had to use an AC D5 board to do the mod which makes it kinda pointless nowadays


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What fans are those up front?


Noiseblocker PK-3's









AWESOME fans.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Do what u want, but i promise you, P/P UT60 will dissipate more watts than Push Monsta.


True however IMHO that case REQUIRES push pull on Monstas. It is just too damn large w/ way too much empty space.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah I misunderstood him. I thought the question was P/P UT60 or Push Monsta


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Noiseblocker PK-3's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AWESOME fans.


And they come with free beer...



... well at least mine did


----------



## ryanallan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Slight off topic question here guys - I'm about to place an order for some water cooling stuffs at Frozencpu and they mention under the shipping box duties and import taxes, etc. Does anybody know roughly how gouging these tend to be shipping to Canada (UPS vs. USPS)? Thanks all!


Go with USPS to avoid the duty / import fees. UPS is the worst when it comes to that.
You can also check out Dazmode.com, it's a Canadian shop.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> I was thinking of doing the same but with an all white build and DI the blocks might just end up looking quite spiffy as they are. Test fitting will tell for sure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn, almost like a clean lab in there. That is looking nice.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah I misunderstood him. I thought the question was P/P UT60 or Push Monsta


Holy crap turns out they lied, and weren't out of stock it was just they wanted to make more money off the purchase since I bought them @ like 13.75$ a fan they changed it to 15.99$ but when he emailed me he stated they were out of stock, but shortly after I said refund I looked @ the page it had the SAME 23 I just ordered back in stock as opposed to out of stock 10 minutes prior to him asking me to cancel. All they had to do was ask if I'd pay the difference if anything. That's LOW just to make an extra 32$

I'm either gonna buy from biiz @ 14.99 each or I don't know. I've no clue about this and I"m gonna go start a thread now since I"m taking this one off topic..


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*


Game over. Incredible.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> I was thinking of doing the same but with an all white build and DI the blocks might just end up looking quite spiffy as they are. Test fitting will tell for sure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My godd. I never thought 200mm fans could look that incredible in a build. Are those NZXT 200mm FZ series with white LED? That has to be the CLEANEST build I've ever seen.


----------



## skupples

so, whats the deal with rad flushing w/ small vinegar dilution? Is it worth it? I put together that flushing station, just wondering if I should hook the rads up to it again & use a bit of vinegar this time.

The flushing station results are pretty amazing, got a small pile of black/silver/gold sand in the bottom, & the filter is completely covered in more crap.


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't think vinegar's needed with flushing stations like we have. It also adds in the complication of maybe throwing off your loops PH balance. And you've already seen first hand what happens to your loop when that happens.

If you had alot of dye staining in your loop, then it might be more worth the risk....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> That's terrible... I hate it when vendors pull crap like that!
> 
> Even on the UT60's they will scale all the way up to 2500RPM... based on Martin's testing (and although methodologies are all flawed in one way or another - he does about the best you can do without an unlimited budget). At 1000-1500RPM you will have great dissipation capability... but you can still get more via push pull or with faster fans down the road if you need more.
> 
> Really, this discussion has gotten pretty far off-topic for this thread and I don't want to further derail it... you should start a build log and we can continue there - or move this discussion to the WC thread as it's much more topically appropriate for those.
> 
> The one last thing I'll say in reference to a misconception you might have based on your last post: although the components will be much cooler with WC vs. air cooling... your room will not. No matter what, you are dumping all of the heat into the air - you're just going to be doing that more efficiently. If you're looking at water cooling as a way of keeping the room cooler while running your PC - you will be disappointed - especially if you're running SLI/Tri-SLI Titans and an OC'd 4960x!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on that hardware selection alone... I'd say go with the Monstas over the UT60s... after all - you're talking about a $10K rig here... what's a few more dollars just for the biggest you can get? Sure you won't be getting 100% utilization out of them (or even the UT60s) but your build is overkill everywhere else... make it universal. The Monstas are definitely not going to be worse - and they'll look huge. Either that or go push-pull on all UT60's - it will be thinner than push only on Monstas - but it will have similar wow-factor and will improve the performance at slower speeds (but it won't be double - closer to 20% more most likely).
> 
> One thing you might want to do however, is carefully examine some other CL builds with them in your case - as they will start making some things tight due to their size - most notably tube and wiring runs to the outside grommeted passthroughs. Nothing that will be a show-stopper by any means, but there will probably be some tight areas with that much rad.


Lol yeah I've been looking @ build logs for months now I think I've seen every TH10 build log on the planet now









Well if I can't find AP-15's or end up buying them for 15$ each.

What's the next best OR equivalent on these? So far Noise Blockers seem to be the main contender and they DO look sexy, though hopefully they come in more than white but 32 NB's = 672$ + tax = more expensive than my TH10 WITH included parts


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't think vinegar's needed with flushing stations like we have. It also adds in the complication of maybe throwing off your loops PH balance. And you've already seen first hand what happens to your loop when that happens.
> 
> If you had alot of dye staining in your loop, then it might be more worth the risk....


That's pretty much what I was thinking. It may get everything nice & clean LOOKING inside the rad, but @ what possible cost? Also, would require a double flush, a 30 min cycle w/ vinegar solution, & another flush with pure distilled. Too much hassle.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Gudd I hate needing a part for my build. I blackout and find more stuff in my cart. I need to just suck it up and hit the checkout button, but I'm still looking!


----------



## skupples

nvm, it's the E series. Didn't even see the e-series fuji when i ordered my massive sheet a few weeks ago, though I doubt over 2x the price is worth it. May have to order a small piece just for my GPU's, since I already did the back plate mod.


----------



## Belial

I have a question regarding the Swiftech Micro Res v2.

Can I have the water inlet at the top of the res, and the outlet on the bottom? So like you see water dripping down into the res? Would that not be the most awesome thing in the world? Is it annoying or loud or anything to do this?

I plan to add the swiftech micro res to my H110 closed loop's loop (i know, not recommendable, you can check my build log i am well aware of this, please im just asking for help here, you can tell me what an idiot i am for wanting to mod things and take things apart in my build log) which uses 1/4 x 3/8 tubing. I'll be using the permanent barbs on the h110 block and rad, but I plan to use 90* compression fittings on the res. I think that would look nice...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I have a question regarding the Swiftech Micro Res v2.
> 
> Can I have the water inlet at the top of the res, and the outlet on the bottom? So like you see water dripping down into the res? Would that not be the most awesome thing in the world? Is it annoying or loud or anything to do this?
> 
> I plan to add the swiftech micro res to my H110 closed loop's loop (i know, not recommendable, you can check my build log i am well aware of this, please im just asking for help here, you can tell me what an idiot i am for wanting to mod things and take things apart in my build log) which uses 1/4 x 3/8 tubing. I'll be using the permanent barbs on the h110 block and rad, but I plan to use 90* compression fittings on the res. I think that would look nice...


Yes you can use the top port. That would be pretty cool! How would you fill it though? usually the top port is for filling. I'll check out your build log I love CLC mods.


----------



## LiquidHaus

RavageTheEarth you do realize Watercool's blocks come with the necessary thermal pads for installation..


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> RavageTheEarth you do realize Watercool's blocks come with the necessary thermal pads for installation..


Yessir, but Fujipoly Extreme's thermal conductivity is superior!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> nvm, it's the E series. Didn't even see the e-series fuji when i ordered my massive sheet a few weeks ago, though I doubt over 2x the price is worth it. May have to order a small piece just for my GPU's, since I already did the back plate mod.


You probably ordered the ones that had a thermal conductivity of 6watt/mk. These Extreme thermal pads have a thermal conductivity of 11watt/mk so technically it does justify 2x the price.... but it DOESN'T justify me spending money on something that I do not need.. yet I will do it anyways because I don't have the willpower to hit the delete button once it's in my cart


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yessir, but Fujipoly Extreme's thermal conductivity is superior!!


Well, my VRMs on my 7970s are at 30c right now, with the cores being 29 and 31. I couldn't possibly justify spending that much extra on "better" thermal pads when the ones included seem to be doing a great job already.

That being said, I have used Fujipoly's pads in the past but that was when blocks didn't have pads included. They worked great. I'm just saying in this particular case, I'd advise saving some money and just going with the ones Watercool includes.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Well, my VRMs on my 7970s are at 30c right now, with the cores being 29 and 31. I couldn't possibly justify spending that much extra on "better" thermal pads when the ones included seem to be doing a great job already.
> 
> That being said, I have used Fujipoly's pads in the past but that was when blocks didn't have pads included. They worked great. I'm just saying in this particular case, I'd advise saving some money and just going with the ones Watercool includes.


What are your VRM temps under load? I'm actually buying these for my Alphacool 7950 blocks because the thermal pads they provide are absolute crap and the wrong size.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What are your VRM temps under load? I'm actually buying these for my Alphacool 7950 blocks because the thermal pads they provide are absolute crap and the wrong size.


During bitcoin mining the VRMs are at 54c, while the cores are at 44 and 37.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> During bitcoin mining the VRMs are at 54c, while the cores are at 44 and 37.


Nice! Those are great temps! With my Alphacool 7950 blocks the core stays around 43c, but the VRMs hand at 64c and 67c


----------



## B3L13V3R

Updated... (before the new Caselabs case arrives)

Very tough case to mod when you have to manage a ton of cables. These pics are just after test mounting so some things aren't tightened up 100% yet. The front rad and res for example are still leaning a bit here.

I don't have fresh up-to-date pics right now but here is the project. Tried to play with getting a fine powder coat. Not perfect, but it looks really good now. That front 200mm fan was just to keep air moving until temps settled once the air was fully purged which didn't take long... about 3 days.

Oh and I ran out of proper fittings for the top of the res... gonna wait to buy those when the Caselabs case gets here and planning starts on that. This Lian Li was just for fun because I used to LOVE these cases and always thought it would be fun to mod one.

Anyway... here is the effort:


----------



## skupples

I use TIM on both sides of my pads anyways, yes I went with the 6w variant. I'm not even going to worry about it, if I didn't use TIM on my pads I may swap it out for the 11w, but meh. Need to spend that money on cable extensions.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I use TIM on both sides of my pads anyways, yes I went with the 6w variant. I'm not even going to worry about it, if I didn't use TIM on my pads I may swap it out for the 11w, but meh. Need to spend that money on cable extensions.


I tried TIM on my thermal pads before, but didn't see any improvement in temps. All it did was make a mess








Did you see a performance difference? If so, what was it?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Nice! Those are great temps! With my Alphacool 7950 blocks the core stays around 43c, but the VRMs hand at 64c and 67c


Thanks, but I'll blame the temps on the radiator space lol. And those are some steep temps for the VRMs







I guess the Fujipoly is the right idea!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I use TIM on both sides of my pads anyways, yes I went with the 6w variant. I'm not even going to worry about it, if I didn't use TIM on my pads I may swap it out for the 11w, but meh. Need to spend that money on cable extensions.


I have never heard of putting TIM on thermal pads in addition


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I tried TIM on my thermal pads before, but didn't see any improvement in temps. All it did was make a mess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you see a performance difference? If so, what was it?


Iv'e never done it without it, so I have no basis to go off of, I also run GK110 right now, which doesn't have VRM temp monitoring. The lack of monitoring + soft modded voltage = me paranoid about VRM temps. EK also recommends to do so in their directions, so I just do it. I'm using PK-3 this time around.

Which reminds me, I was using CLU with my nickel blocks, but I feel like I remember reading somewhere that copper & CLU don't get along very well. I have seen this first hand with IHS, the copper(?) IHS literally absorbed the liquid ultra on my 3570k. Had to use the provided scotch bright pad to get it all off, not a big deal though, just hit it with the 2500 grit sandpaper afterwords & back to shiny.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Thanks, but I'll blame the temps on the radiator space lol. And those are some steep temps for the VRMs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the Fujipoly is the right idea!
> I have never heard of putting TIM on thermal pads in addition


Yea I have 880mm of rad space so that definitely isn't the problem. As for the thermal paste, I would think that it just adds a little more space for the heat to travel through. Even if the TIM had a high thermal conductivity it would still be limited by the thermal pads watt/mk , right?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e never done it without it, so I have no basis to go off of, I also run GK110 right now, which doesn't have VRM temp monitoring. The lack of monitoring + soft modded voltage = me paranoid about VRM temps. EK also recommends to do so in their directions, so I just do it. I'm using PK-3 this time around.
> 
> Which reminds me, I was using CLU with my nickel blocks, but I feel like I remember reading somewhere that copper & CLU don't get along very well. I have seen this first hand with IHS, the copper(?) IHS literally absorbed the liquid ultra on my 3570k. Had to use the provided scotch bright pad to get it all off, not a big deal though, just hit it with the 2500 grit sandpaper afterwords & back to shiny.


You don't have to worry about that. Liquid Ultra is fine with copper. I use it myself and have never had a problem. Aluminum is what you don't want to let it play with







Seriously, look up some videos. Crazzzy stuff Thats strange though. With some alcohol I never had a problem getting it off. Liquid Pro is a different story.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Thanks, but I'll blame the temps on the radiator space lol. And those are some steep temps for the VRMs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the Fujipoly is the right idea!
> I have never heard of putting TIM on thermal pads in addition


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109857113.pdf
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> You don't have to worry about that. Liquid Ultra is fine with copper. I use it myself and have never had a problem. Aluminum is what you don't want to let it play with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, look up some videos. Crazzzy stuff Thats strange though. With some alcohol I never had a problem getting it off. Liquid Pro is a different story.












The #1 mistake I see with CLU is people using WAY TOO MUCH. It should go on as thin as possible, & stretched out from the middle. Like you are slowly pulling it to the corners.

Like toms video, he uses a WHOLE needle on just CPU, you should be able to do @ least 2x GPU's & a CPU with one needle.


----------



## M3TAl

That Fujipoly is good stuff. Raised the temp of my motherboard VRM heatsink (thermal probe from fan controller, no mobo sensor for VRM







) 12C. I'll consider that much better heat transfer.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109857113.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #1 mistake I see with CLU is people using WAY TOO MUCH. It should go on as thin as possible, & stretched out from the middle. Like you are slowly pulling it to the corners.


Exactly. A thin & even coat is all that is needed. I use the stuff on my CPU and GPU blocks and have never had a problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That Fujipoly is good stuff. *Raised* the temp of my motherboard VRM heatsink (thermal probe from fan controller, no mobo sensor for VRM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) 12C. I'll consider much better heat transfer.


I hope that you mean "lowered"


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Exactly. A thin & even coat is all that is needed. I use the stuff on my CPU and GPU blocks and have never had a problem.
> I hope that you mean "lowered"


I read that as the heatsink is now hotter, as in it's pulling more heat into the sink & away from the VRM.

I already wasted half of a needle on this damned dead nickel block, so hopefully I can get 3x GPU's & a CPU out of 1.5 needles, one of which leaked quite a bit in the packaging. I pretty much ended my relationship with FCPU over it, they wouldn't replace it.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Exactly. A thin & even coat is all that is needed. I use the stuff on my CPU and GPU blocks and have never had a problem.
> I hope that you mean "lowered"


Nope I mean raised. Means much more heat is making it to the heatsink and away from the actual mosfets. The stock pad Gigabyte uses must be pretty bad.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I read that as the heatsink is now hotter, as in it's pulling more heat into the sink & away from the VRM.
> 
> I already wasted half of a needle on this damned dead nickel block, so hopefully I can get 3x GPU's & a CPU out of 1.5 needles, one of which leaked quite a bit in the packaging. I pretty much ended my relationship with FCPU over it, they wouldn't replace it.


I once sent a member of this forum three syringes of TIM through USPS. All three arrived to him broken and leaking everywhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Nope I mean raised. Means much more heat is making it to the heatsink and away from the actual mosfets. The stock pad Gigabyte uses must be pretty bad.


Ahh ok missed the part where you used a thermal probe. Makes sense now!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea I have 880mm of rad space so that definitely isn't the problem. As for the thermal paste, I would think that it just adds a little more space for the heat to travel through. Even if the TIM had a high thermal conductivity it would still be limited by the thermal pads watt/mk , right?


Possibly. Someday I will have to compare. All I know is my VRMs have always been okay. But remember, I always swear on the Watercool Heatkiller blocks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109857113.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #1 mistake I see with CLU is people using WAY TOO MUCH. It should go on as thin as possible, & stretched out from the middle. Like you are slowly pulling it to the corners.
> 
> Like toms video, he uses a WHOLE needle on just CPU, you should be able to do @ least 2x GPU's & a CPU with one needle.


'

Interesting, never saw that LOL.

And I regret to admit I have applied too much of Phoyba's Liquid Metal multiple times myself, which is very similar to CLU. I guess I hadn't taken into consideration it's physical properties. Multiple times it had dripped onto the motherboard and it freaked me out since it's conductive. Suffice to say nowadays I put the tiniest drop imaginable and take about 5 minutes spreading it out with a cut up credit card. A paint brush I've heard recommended seems to me that the brush would collect some of the product. I don't want that.


----------



## Belial

You barely need any CLU at all to coat anything, just with how the stuff is all galliucal[sic]. All you need to do is literally just stick the brush haflway down the syringe tip, and like that should coat 2 CPUs on it's own. You really don't need to put anything down, the stuff just spreads... and spreads... and spreads.

However you end up with so few applications because you are sent very little in the syringe, and something weird happens where when you get to the end of the tube, there's this cheesecloth affect of the dry particles or something, and you can't use 1/4 of the stuff. I thought it was something to do with it drying out, or a bad batch, but it happens to every stick I get and I always cap them, put them in the package, and then bag them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I have a question regarding the Swiftech Micro Res v2.
> 
> Can I have the water inlet at the top of the res, and the outlet on the bottom? So like you see water dripping down into the res? Would that not be the most awesome thing in the world? Is it annoying or loud or anything to do this?
> 
> I plan to add the swiftech micro res to my H110 closed loop's loop (i know, not recommendable, you can check my build log i am well aware of this, please im just asking for help here, you can tell me what an idiot i am for wanting to mod things and take things apart in my build log) which uses 1/4 x 3/8 tubing. I'll be using the permanent barbs on the h110 block and rad, but I plan to use 90* compression fittings on the res. I think that would look nice...
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you can use the top port. That would be pretty cool! How would you fill it though? usually the top port is for filling. I'll check out your build log I love CLC mods.
Click to expand...

Well, I gotta fill the the h60 i'm replacing the tubing of, and that won't have a res. I suppose I'd just fill a large cup of the fluid, and just dip the reservoir into it. I could also use the original inlet and pour a lot of the fluid in there, then cap it once it starts filling up. I mean you tell me lol.


----------



## LunaP

Created a thread here in case I was going off topic w/ the Fans, hope it's in a good spot since its WC related?

http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1450716


----------



## Belial

Likely do better in air cooling, where fan discussion occurs. Static pressure is what matters, and it's all the same whether for a rad or a heatsink or even just a grill or HDD cage. Ask a mod to move it, either PM one that's one (you can see on front page who's on) or publicly ask in the thread.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I once sent a member of this forum three syringes of TIM through USPS. All three arrived to him broken and leaking everywhere.


Dang, glad then all my stuff I got today from FrozenCPU came in one piece. Poor box was busted a bit on one side, and I never understood why just brown paper for packing. The stuff was so loose in the box.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That Fujipoly is good stuff. Raised the temp of my motherboard VRM heatsink (thermal probe from fan controller, no mobo sensor for VRM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) 12C. I'll consider that much better heat transfer.


What is this Fujipoly you all are speaking of? I am planning to soon buy a waterblock for my Titan. Going to be the first time I have a GPU watercooled.


----------



## fast_fate

Fujipoly = super premium thermal pads.
I got some a while back for use on gpu blocks.
Unfortunately no data to compare with.

My sheet arrived quite dry - is this normal ?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Dang, glad then all my stuff I got today from FrozenCPU came in one piece. Poor box was busted a bit on one side, and I never understood why just brown paper for packing. The stuff was so loose in the box.


Performance-PCs > FrozenCPU

Especially shipping. This is the last package I got from PPCS..and this was also from their warehouse in Florida shipped across country to me in California through FedEx ground. (20 bucks avg)




Pretty impressive imo


----------



## wermad

I buy the cheap stuff on ebay have used them on many applications. Only bummer is the few weeks delivery from China.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Performance-PCs > FrozenCPU
> 
> Especially shipping. This is the last package I got from PPCS..and this was also from their warehouse in Florida shipped across country to me in California through FedEx ground. (20 bucks avg)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty impressive imo


Wooh, that is way better packaging. Only thing is some of the barbs I want I seem to only find them on FrozenCPU. But, I probably going to by the waterblock and backplate for my Titan than through Performance PC, and the few barbs, etc. I can find on their website.


----------



## wermad

I have had packages from both where they skimped on the packing material. But ppcs.com tends to do overkill it a bit more then often. Have to say fcpu.com is faster then ppcs.com.


----------



## Ithanul

Hmmm, well my next round of ordering is adapters, so they should be alright from either one. Its just I don't want a busted GPU block. And, anyways FrozenCPU is out of stock of the block I want, but PPCS.com is not.

Its just, in this first order, I had a Radiator, Res, Pump, Acrylic tubes, etc. in it. Lucky everything I checked looked alright.


----------



## wermad

Stumbled upon these on the TFC site:


----------



## bennychen

Hi all, I'm new to water cooling and below is the specs I've just assembled

i5 4430
Palit GTX 760
180mm Magicool Radiator
180mm Phobya Silent fan @ 500rpm
XSPC D5 Vario with EK X-res 100 @ 1800rpm
EK GTX670 full cover block
EK CSQ Clear CPU block
XSPC Clear tubing 3/8 ID 5/8 OD

The results after 30 minutes stress testing by MSI kombustor on GTX 760 the temps were 83c for GPU and 65c for CPU respectively

Is the temps normal for my setup? When I press on the tubing I feel it's soften due to the heat generated causing thus I'm worried if the tubing can take this temperature.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennychen*
> 
> Hi all, I'm new to water cooling and below is the specs I've just assembled
> 
> i5 4430
> Palit GTX 760
> 180mm Magicool Radiator
> 180mm Phobya Silent fan @ 500rpm
> XSPC D5 Vario with EK X-res 100 @ 1800rpm
> EK GTX670 full cover block
> EK CSQ Clear CPU block
> XSPC Clear tubing 3/8 ID 5/8 OD
> 
> The results after 30 minutes stress testing by MSI kombustor on GTX 760 the temps were 83c for GPU and 65c for CPU respectively
> 
> Is the temps normal for my setup? When I press on the tubing I feel it's soften due to the heat generated causing thus I'm worried if the tubing can take this temperature.


pretty high, check to ensure your pump is still flowing. I'm suspecting you may not have enough rad. I was pushing 65c on a 4670K at 4.9ghz. You should be under 50 and ~40 on the gpu. Which case do you have? may need more rad but make sure the pump is set @ 4 or 5 setting.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Damn, almost like a clean lab in there. That is looking nice.


Hoping it'll still look the part once the plumbing gets tossed in. Thanks Ithanul!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Game over. Incredible.


I don't know what to say.







Thank you lifeisshort117!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> My godd. I never thought 200mm fans could look that incredible in a build. Are those NZXT 200mm FZ series with white LED? That has to be the CLEANEST build I've ever seen.


Thanks Ravage! The original Phantom refuses to eat the new FZ series so they're the NZXT FS 200mm ones with the original blue leds replaced with white ones.

A couple daylight ones. Missing the side panel, I know













Can't wait to get them blocks and backplates in place.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennychen*
> 
> Hi all, I'm new to water cooling and below is the specs I've just assembled
> 
> i5 4430
> Palit GTX 760
> 180mm Magicool Radiator
> 180mm Phobya Silent fan @ 500rpm
> XSPC D5 Vario with EK X-res 100 @ 1800rpm
> EK GTX670 full cover block
> EK CSQ Clear CPU block
> XSPC Clear tubing 3/8 ID 5/8 OD
> 
> The results after 30 minutes stress testing by MSI kombustor on GTX 760 the temps were 83c for GPU and 65c for CPU respectively
> 
> Is the temps normal for my setup? When I press on the tubing I feel it's soften due to the heat generated causing thus I'm worried if the tubing can take this temperature.


I would be suspicious that the fan at 500 rpm is capable of moving enough air through the rad to dispell the heat...
and only one rad at that


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I have a question regarding the Swiftech Micro Res v2.
> 
> Can I have the water inlet at the top of the res, and the outlet on the bottom? So like you see water dripping down into the res? Would that not be the most awesome thing in the world? Is it annoying or loud or anything to do this?
> 
> I plan to add the swiftech micro res to my H110 closed loop's loop (i know, not recommendable, you can check my build log i am well aware of this, please im just asking for help here, you can tell me what an idiot i am for wanting to mod things and take things apart in my build log) which uses 1/4 x 3/8 tubing. I'll be using the permanent barbs on the h110 block and rad, but I plan to use 90* compression fittings on the res. I think that would look nice...


No,i wouldnt advise that without a return feed tube that goes below the waterline,splashing encourages air to mix in your coolant which then gets sucked back in to your loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stumbled upon these on the TFC site:


Posted those weeks ago Werm..bit too 'christmas cracker' for me tho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennychen*
> 
> Hi all, I'm new to water cooling and below is the specs I've just assembled
> 
> i5 4430
> Palit GTX 760
> 180mm Magicool Radiator
> 180mm Phobya Silent fan @ 500rpm
> XSPC D5 Vario with EK X-res 100 @ 1800rpm
> EK GTX670 full cover block
> EK CSQ Clear CPU block
> XSPC Clear tubing 3/8 ID 5/8 OD
> 
> The results after 30 minutes stress testing by MSI kombustor on GTX 760 the temps were 83c for GPU and 65c for CPU respectively
> 
> Is the temps normal for my setup? When I press on the tubing I feel it's soften due to the heat generated causing thus I'm worried if the tubing can take this temperature.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stumbled upon these on the TFC site:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A single 180 rad cooling all that? Wow.

Im not surprised its a little toasty


----------



## bennychen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> pretty high, check to ensure your pump is still flowing. I'm suspecting you may not have enough rad. I was pushing 65c on a 4670K at 4.9ghz. You should be under 50 and ~40 on the gpu. Which case do you have? may need more rad but make sure the pump is set @ 4 or 5 setting.


Yes the pump is flowing well, I set the pump speed to lowest rpm because silent is the goal, the casing I'm using is Bitfenix Phenom ITX. Both my CPU and GPU were on stock speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I would be suspicious that the fan at 500 rpm is capable of moving enough air through the rad to dispell the heat...
> and only one rad at that


180mm silent fan is hard to source, even the Phobya 180mm fan running at 500rpm, there's some low ticking sound can be heard from the fan, regarding the radiator, maybe 180mm radiator is insufficient to hold both CPU and GPU in reasonable temp.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Posted those weeks ago Werm..bit too 'christmas cracker' for me tho.


Bumpage for the weird and wacky w/c gear then


----------



## Ithanul

Since we are on about radiators. I been debating about buying me a second one for my rebuild. With HDD drive bay area removed in a Haf X. Which is the biggest radiator can I smack in there? I already got a new radiator to smack up in the top.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennychen*
> 
> 180mm silent fan is hard to source, even the Phobya 180mm fan running at 500rpm, there's some low ticking sound can be heard from the fan, regarding the radiator, maybe 180mm radiator is insufficient to hold both CPU and GPU in reasonable temp.


That was my point - 180mm fan at 500 rpm I suspect is not moving enough air through the rad to dispel the heat.
Single "silent" fan and water cooling performance (good temps) are not generally matched together.
I assume the fan is on a controller ??
Turn it up to full rpm for the fan and see if that gets better temps.
Suspect a combination of more rad and more air movement is needed.
Temps are uncomfortably high, (for me anyway) for water cooled components


----------



## wermad

Might as well go w/ a cls and an aftermarket gpu aircooler for that size build if you're looking for a silent build.


----------



## dnmda1337

Hello i just finished my first custom loop and not quite happy with the temps, when mining my VRM's hit 80-85 degrees with core at 42, one of the cpu cores hit 74 after 10 runs of Intel burn test with stresslevel high.

My setup is XSPC Raystorm cpu block, gpu block is EK-FC7950 Acetal, D5 pump and 360 EK Coolstream PE and a 240 AX xspc radiator

Any sugestions ? i will try to reseat the gpu block and try go get a better pad on the vrms and give the raystorm block a good cleaning aswell

Before when i only had the cpu cooled it wouldent go over 65 degrees, also i had no mx4 coolingpaste left so used the XSPC coolingpaste , might have anything to do with that ?

Been lurking for to long figured i might aswell join the forums


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Got a question for you guys,do you think if i change my top rad to intake that i would get better temps (mostly for the gpu) ?.....Also if i had the top and bottom running intake and just a 140mm fan for exhaust would that make my mobo or rams run much hotter and by how much (meaning by changing the top rad to intake that it would be worth the extra case temps)....or i should just add another 240mm (front intake) and get rid of some extra heat from the loop and maybe get a slight temp drop....


----------



## Fonne

Is going to use Alphacool XT45 280mm in my Caselab S3 and was looking at price (In push/pull)....





Thats over 120 Euro, just because of the fans - How big a performance/noise differance do you think there will be ?

- 120 Euro is a big part of my budget.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is going to use Alphacool XT45 280mm in my Caselab S3 and was looking at price (In push/pull)....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats over 120 Euro, just because of the fans - How big a performance/noise differance do you think there will be ?
> 
> - 120 Euro is a big part of my budget.


Just buy the rads and fans singly rather than the bundle.


----------



## Fonne

That will just be more expensive ? ...



The RAD alone cost more than the bundle ...


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Got a question for you guys,do you think if i change my top rad to intake that i would get better temps (mostly for the gpu) ?.....Also if i had the top and bottom running intake and just a 140mm fan for exhaust would that make my mobo or rams run much hotter and by how much (meaning by changing the top rad to intake that it would be worth the extra case temps)....or i should just add another 240mm (front intake) and get rid of some extra heat from the loop and maybe get a slight temp drop....


If you have both top and bottom as intake, you're dumping all that heat inside the case with one fan exhausting everything.

What happens if you have the bottom and rear as intake and having the top as exhaust? Wouldn't that be better since heat rises anyways?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> If you have both top and bottom as intake, you're dumping all that heat inside the case with one fan exhausting everything.


You are thinking in terms of air cooling; when water cooling it doesn't matter if case inside is a little bit warmer. Radiator getting 'cold' fresh air as intake = lower CPU/GPU temps.

Although push/pull/intake/exhaust all depends on the user's particular set up. The situation may vary, so it's always best to try all combinations on the actual components, rather than ask in forum which is better


----------



## szeged

so i need one more rad for my sth10 to fill em completely up, can only do the configuration in push only, so monsta is a no go. What do you guys think, blackice sr1 480mm or a UT60 480mm, only in push. Can get both for the same price atm.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have had packages from both where they skimped on the packing material. But ppcs.com tends to do overkill it a bit more then often. *Have to say fcpu.com is faster then ppcs.com.*


I still think Sidewinder is faster though. Normally same day shipping on orders before 4pm EST. And since I'm barely two hours away I usually get my orders the next day with UPS Ground. Not quite the selection of PPCs and FCPU, but they're prices are pretty good and the Customer Service is outstanding.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so i need one more rad for my sth10 to fill em completely up, can only do the configuration in push only, so monsta is a no go. What do you guys think, blackice sr1 480mm or a UT60 480mm, only in push. Can get both for the same price atm.


Same price? I say SR1 in that case. I love my BI GTX480. Amazing build quality. Has a bit more weight than my Thermochill 480 radiator too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is going to use Alphacool XT45 280mm in my Caselab S3 and was looking at price (In push/pull)....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats over 120 Euro, just because of the fans - How big a performance/noise differance do you think there will be ?
> 
> - 120 Euro is a big part of my budget.


I've used High Speed Yates and they were great fans. A bit on the loud side at full speed, but had great performance for the price. On a fan controller, running at about 70%, the noise was much more tolerable. But since yours would be Low Speed, I doubt they'd be that loud. Personally, I'd go with the Yates.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've ordered from Frozen about a half dozen times now and they are definitely the fastest company I've ever dealt with to process and ship an order. I think every time I've had my tracking number within a couple hours, and twice I Know I had received my shipping email just around an hour after placing my order.

I've had a couple ebay sellers do similar with a one item order, but my Frozen orders are always a dozen items or more. I've never had any other company be able to do anything close to that.


----------



## gdubc

Does anyone here have any info on the ek x top v2? I recently received the ddc 3.2 pwm and they sent the black top on accident instead of the plexi. If the v2 top is a lot better I might just order it and switch tops rather than mess with the return. Problem has been that I cant seem to find anyone that knows anything about the v2 top. Thanks to all for any help!


----------



## szeged

for me performance-pcs has been the best, granted were in the same state so even the cheapest shipping gets here next day usually. But their customer service is top notch imo. They just need a better stock on some of their smaller items.


----------



## RickRockerr

This is a "prototype" of my ddc pump fan mount.
What do you think?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kizwan

I spilled water on SP120 fan while rebuilding my loop. Removed the blade & saw the PCB board is wet. How to dry them properly? I seems unable to remove the PCB board to properly clean & dry it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I spilled water on SP120 fan while rebuilding my loop. Removed the blade & saw the PCB board is wet. How to dry them properly? I seems unable to remove the PCB board to properly clean & dry it.


Pull it out,leave it in a warm place overnight then use as usual


----------



## King4x4

Heads up lads for those wanting to daisy chain multiple PWM fans.

I just tested running 15 Titan Kukris off the of the CPU head on an Asrock X79 Champion and it worked pretty fine!

The loop went like this:

CPU Head => Swiftech 8-Fan Splitter => 7xTitan Kukris + Swiftech 8-Fan Splitter where this splitter fed another 8 Fans.

Best thing that only speed fan was sent to the cpu header (Which ranged from 2200 to 800 rpm).

These babies are pretty noisy at 2200 rpm but drop them down to 1800 and they push pretty good air and drop down a big notch in the dba scale.

Best thing? They drop down to 800 rpm!!

In the coming months I will try to setup my Hydra 2 rig with a main Swiftech Header that will split to 7~8 (Depending on the final loop) headers.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pull it out,leave it in a warm place overnight then use as usual


Thank you BNEG!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So pissed at USPS right now. I RMA's a block for store credit at PPC and left the package at USPS on Monday. My entire build is waiting on the block that I'm buying from PPC with my store credit and the damn package hasn't even left the USPS office I sent it from. Says it will get there on Monday. One week to get a package to Florida with Flat Rate??? So many bad experiences with USPS. I don't trust any delivery service though. I worked at UPS for quite a few years. Wish I didn't know what goes on there...


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Heads up lads for those wanting to daisy chain multiple PWM fans.
> 
> I just tested running 15 Titan Kukris off the of the CPU head on an Asrock X79 Champion and it worked pretty fine!
> 
> The loop went like this:
> 
> CPU Head => Swiftech 8-Fan Splitter => 7xTitan Kukris + Swiftech 8-Fan Splitter where this splitter fed another 8 Fans.
> 
> Best thing that only speed fan was sent to the cpu header (Which ranged from 2200 to 800 rpm).
> 
> These babies are pretty noisy at 2200 rpm but drop them down to 1800 and they push pretty good air and drop down a big notch in the dba scale.
> 
> Best thing? They drop down to 800 rpm!!
> 
> In the coming months I will try to setup my Hydra 2 rig with a main Swiftech Header that will split to 7~8 (Depending on the final loop) headers.


Thats awesome!

I tried running 7 SP120s off of a splitter with my MSI Z87-GD65-GAMING and the PWM signal was severely loaded. (I was only able to control the fans from 2000-2200RPM....not useful). Fixed it with an octal buffer but it was extra work that I had not intended to do. The fact you can daisy chain a second splitter is impressive.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So pissed at USPS right now. I RMA's a block for store credit at PPC and left the package at USPS on Monday. My entire build is waiting on the block that I'm buying from PPC with my store credit and the damn package hasn't even left the USPS office I sent it from. Says it will get there on Monday. One week to get a package to Florida with Flat Rate??? So many bad experiences with USPS. I don't trust any delivery service though. I worked at UPS for quite a few years. Wish I didn't know what goes on there...


Could be that they just haven't updated the tracking. That's happened to me a few times when ordering parts. Says the item has been received for shipping then no updates for two days then it shows up at my door and all the tracking info updates. It's also a busy shipping time right now with Christmas right around the corner.


----------



## skupples

well, the new copper block was ever so slightly scuffed & beat up, but i'm not going to let that faze me.




FCPU is still using butcher paper as packing material, but I had no choice, my local PPC was sold out of what I wanted.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Could be that they just haven't updated the tracking. That's happened to me a few times when ordering parts. Says the item has been received for shipping then no updates for two days then it shows up at my door and all the tracking info updates. It's also a busy shipping time right now with Christmas right around the corner.


Yea thats what I was thinking. It ispeak season which I know from personal experience is very hectic. It just sucks that they advertise their advances tracking and bla bla bla on the commercials and this happens. I'm a very impatient person!!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> well, the new copper block was ever so slightly scuffed & beat up, but i'm not going to let that faze me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FCPU is still using butcher paper as packing material, but I had no choice, my local PPC was sold out of what I wanted.


My godd that is sexy. I really want it!! $90 is steep though when I already have a Swiftech Apogee HD. Stop making me want to spend money with dem beautiful CPU blocks!


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So pissed at USPS right now. I RMA's a block for store credit at PPC and left the package at USPS on Monday. My entire build is waiting on the block that I'm buying from PPC with my store credit and the damn package hasn't even left the USPS office I sent it from. Says it will get there on Monday. One week to get a package to Florida with Flat Rate??? So many bad experiences with USPS. I don't trust any delivery service though. I worked at UPS for quite a few years. Wish I didn't know what goes on there...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> My godd that is sexy. I really want it!! $90 is steep though when I already have a Swiftech Apogee HD. Stop making me want to spend money with dem beautiful CPU blocks!


If I had any patience I would of polished the copper block, but my patience with this system has all but ran out. It was pretty damned scuffed, & stained with what looks like thermal pad or something stupid. Anyways, it does look gorgeous.







So, Thank you! Pictures of GPU's soon to come.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> If I had any patience I would of polished the copper block, but my patience with this system has all but ran out. It was pretty damned scuffed, & stained with what looks like thermal pad or something stupid. Anyways, it does look gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, Thank you! Pictures of GPU's soon to come.


I look forward to them!


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


This is the best looking CPU block I have ever seen.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So the Fujipoly Thermal Pads aren't as expensive as I thought they were. I had a half sheet of the Extreme series (with a whopping 11.0watt/mk thermal conductivity) in my cart that cost $40. I chose that because I needed to do three 7950's (39 thermal pads for the memory, not including the VRM's), but with a little math I realized that a quarter sheet would yield me with 96 12.4mm x 12.7mm thermal pads for $20 (1mm thick pads). For my HEATKILLER 7970 block I'm going to use 1mm pads on the VRM's and .5mm thermal pads on the memory. Not totally sure what I'm going to use on the Alphacool 7950 blocks though. I was told by one person to use 1mm pads all around, but I'm not sure. I got horrible temps with the thermal pads that came with the Alphacool 7950 blocks. I ended up having to use a double stack of the stock thermal pads that came with the 7950 on the VRM's the right of the card and the thermal pads that came with the Alphacool block on the memory, but the cards still bent in a weird shape around the card. I think it was because the thermal pads were really hard and weren't easily compressed. What size thermal pads do you guys think I should use for the Alphacool 7950 blocks?




and here is how many thermal pads a quarter sheet of these thermal pads can give you (12.47mm x 12.5mm sized thermal pads)


----------



## Belial

yea you always get a big sheet with tapes usually. Just check on the amount you are buying first.

I want a 90* fitting for 1/4 x 3/8 tubing + Swiftech Micro Res I'm using. I can't find much on this - there's only a single barb I can find on that size, some ugly enzotech:


Is it possible for me to use 90* _adaptors_ and then put... whatever, onto it? What's the difference between using adaptors and just normal fittings?



Can I use one of these 90* adaptors, and then just stick the stock 1/4ID barb onto it?

Finally, I'm replacing the tubing on an H60 and H110 (dont ask). I was wondering if a T-line would be recommendable (the h110 will have the micro res). I was thinking of maybe putting ~5inch line on the bottom of the res and just cramming it behind the mobo tray, doesnt matter if it's squeezed and pinched since there's no flow to it right?


----------



## wermad

BP ram plates with EK Monarch x4 blocks












First time purchase where BP was a bit cheaper then EK







. Couldn't wait for the EK plates to be in stock so I picked up the BP plates instead. From the pics, it looks like the BP sit the block a bit lower then the EK plates. Should all work since the spacing is set the same for all blocks (Corsair Dominator spacing).


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Since we are on about radiators. I been debating about buying me a second one for my rebuild. With HDD drive bay area removed in a Haf X. Which is the biggest radiator can I smack in there? I already got a new radiator to smack up in the top.


240 radiator fits 100%, 360 fits depending on your top radiator. I haven't tried if 280 or 420 rads fit but they might with a little modding.


----------



## skupples

I LOVE how the finish is coming off of these piece in the photo, JUST LIKE IN REAL LIFE!

Anyways, doing custom pads on 2x titans took almost an hour per card, including cleaning the PCB, modules, so on. My back hurts, time for beer.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> I LOVE how the finish is coming off of these piece in the photo, JUST LIKE IN REAL LIFE!
> 
> Anyways, doing custom pads on 2x titans took almost an hour per card, including cleaning the PCB, modules, so on. My back hurts, time for beer.


Have a shot of JD and a Corona for me while you're at it









Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> BP ram plates with EK Monarch x4 blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time purchase where BP was a bit cheaper then EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Couldn't wait for the EK plates to be in stock so I picked up the BP plates instead. From the pics, it looks like the BP sit the block a bit lower then the EK plates. Should all work since the spacing is set the same for all blocks (Corsair Dominator spacing).


I might buy a set of those and use the Dominator HS on the top of them....Mmmmmmmm,,,,,,,


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> I LOVE how the finish is coming off of these piece in the photo, JUST LIKE IN REAL LIFE!
> 
> Anyways, doing custom pads on 2x titans took almost an hour per card, including cleaning the PCB, modules, so on. My back hurts, time for beer.


My double 45° is holding very nicely after more then a year of use (and many builds/loops







). I ordered some 90°s and some Phobya extension. I know the Phobyas won't last so I'll be painting them w/ same rattle (heavy coats).

Damn, took you that long to redo a gpu block? Wow, i can do one in ~10-15mins or less if I already know the procedure. I've been taking off the block from my BE card to run the stock air cooler for testing the cpu outside the case. I've done it a few times i ripped some of the pad. I have a ton of spare pad I ordered from the ebay Chinese sellers. Nothing fancy and it does the job nicely







. Sheet of 200x200 ~$10-15 but takes a few weeks to arrive from China. I've used this pad on many gpus (Lightning, Titan, 780s, 690s, 580s).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I might buy a set of those and use the Dominator HS on the top of them....Mmmmmmmm,,,,,,,


Rather then buying uber inflated Doms, the plates come in handy to use ram blocks. I couldn't wait another week for the EKs to come in so I picked up the BP plates.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> This is the best looking CPU block I have ever seen.


Yeah, I freaking love that block. If I ever want/need a new one, that's probably what I'll get.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My double 45° is holding very nicely after more then a year of use (and many builds/loops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I ordered some 90°s and some Phobya extension. I know the Phobyas won't last so I'll be painting them w/ same rattle (heavy coats).
> 
> Damn, took you that long to redo a gpu block? Wow, i can do one in ~10-15mins or less if I already know the procedure. I've been taking off the block from my BE card to run the stock air cooler for testing the cpu outside the case. I've done it a few times i ripped some of the pad. I have a ton of spare pad I ordered from the ebay Chinese sellers. Nothing fancy and it does the job nicely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Sheet of 200x200 ~$10-15 but takes a few weeks to arrive from China. I've used this pad on many gpus (Lightning, Titan, 780s, 690s, 580s).
> Rather then buying uber inflated Doms, the plates come in handy to use ram blocks. I couldn't wait another week for the EKs to come in so I picked up the BP plates
> 
> 
> .


I was extremely thorough, I also had to clean & pack up the old blocks for RMA. Most of the time was spenting dealing with FujiPoly which is literally putty w/ 85F ambient temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have a shot of JD and a Corona for me while you're at it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


How about a shot of bourbon?



His name is Bourbon.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Rather then buying uber inflated Doms, the plates come in handy to use ram blocks. I couldn't wait another week for the EKs to come in so I picked up the BP plates.


I have been bidding on some Samsung ram but they are so tiny....I think the plates will make them look more manly after i have milled 15mm off the bottoms of them,added the Dom extended HS and bolted them on.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been bidding on some Samsung ram but they are so tiny....I think the plates will make them look more manly after i have milled 15mm off the bottoms of them,added the Dom extended HS and bolted them on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I might buy a set of those and use the Dominator HS on the top of them....Mmmmmmmm,,,,,,,


Is this for the Impact build?

I'm keeping my Vengeance kit (4x4gb) and running that in quad channel. Its extremely upsetting how ram prices have skyrocketed. I paid about ~ 60% of today's prices last year. Good thing is that X79 can run quad channel w/ four dimms on an eight slot board. I've seen a few builds w/ x4 blocks w/ only two dimms so nothing new tbh.

I'll keep an eye out for another vengeance kit but tbh, I really don't need 32gb of ram for gaming







.


----------



## stickg1

I couldn't handle the noise anymore. I had the day off, and then this ended up happening, lol...




Might have to go full blown custom loop to fully tame this thing, but I might not keep the card that long.


----------



## LunaP

So taking Darlene's advice About the pure Acetyl (w/ small copper plate) for the Ray storm and talking w/ XSPC a bit, had an idea and emailed them abou tit.

Asked them first what the black block was that's connected to the copper plate and they said it was acetyl plastic, guessing it was painted but was thinking otherwise.

So after confirming my belief's gonna go w/ this since it's a FULL copper block.



Then swap the bracket for the acrylic bracket to maintain the LED aspect!



Thoughts? I should see somewhat of an improvement over the pure acetyl right?

Cuz c'mon this is def sexy! (gonna be in red)


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> I LOVE how the finish is coming off of these piece in the photo, JUST LIKE IN REAL LIFE!
> 
> Anyways, doing custom pads on 2x titans took almost an hour per card, including cleaning the PCB, modules, so on. My back hurts, time for beer.


Aye, they do look good, but can they work with some g1/4 1/4id barbs? Or even compression fittings? I'm a bit confused what adaptors are for.

Like these


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been bidding on some Samsung ram but they are so tiny....I think the plates will make them look more manly after i have milled 15mm off the bottoms of them,added the Dom extended HS and bolted them on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I might buy a set of those and use the Dominator HS on the top of them....Mmmmmmmm,,,,,,,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is this for the Impact build?
> 
> I'm keeping my Vengeance kit (4x4gb) and running that in quad channel. Its extremely upsetting how ram prices have skyrocketed. I paid about ~ 60% of today's prices last year. Good thing is that X79 can run quad channel w/ four dimms on an eight slot board. I've seen a few builds w/ x4 blocks w/ only two dimms so nothing new tbh.
> 
> I'll keep an eye out for another vengeance kit but tbh, I really don't need 32gb of ram for gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Yep.

Want something different...I wont go WC,WC'ing ram is a joke tbh


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yea thats what I was thinking. It ispeak season which I know from personal experience is very hectic. It just sucks that they advertise their advances tracking and bla bla bla on the commercials and this happens. I'm a very impatient person!!


Maybe USPS only makes deliveries to PPC's once a week or something. It may or may not be the case, but my recent 4930k RMA to Intel they told me if I shipped it via USPS packages only arrive once a week to them. I still did it through USPS, cheapest method for me and wasn't that expensive to insure $550 worth of CPU.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Updated... (before the new Caselabs case arrives)
> 
> Very tough case to mod when you have to manage a ton of cables. These pics are just after test mounting so some things aren't tightened up 100% yet. The front rad and res for example are still leaning a bit here.
> 
> I don't have fresh up-to-date pics right now but here is the project. Tried to play with getting a fine powder coat. Not perfect, but it looks really good now. That front 200mm fan was just to keep air moving until temps settled once the air was fully purged which didn't take long... about 3 days.
> 
> Oh and I ran out of proper fittings for the top of the res... gonna wait to buy those when the Caselabs case gets here and planning starts on that. This Lian Li was just for fun because I used to LOVE these cases and always thought it would be fun to mod one.
> 
> Anyway... here is the effort:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












I'd take that PC-V2000 over any Case Labs any day.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Aye, they do look good, but can they work with some g1/4 1/4id barbs? Or even compression fittings? I'm a bit confused what adaptors are for.
> 
> Like these


The G1/4 barb would be able to thread into that yes. If that's what you mean.


----------



## OverSightX

I just took some updated pics with my Unlocked 290. I must say I don't know why I never put a back plate on my previous cards.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yep.
> 
> Want something different...I wont go WC,WC'ing ram is a joke tbh


I just went with it for the heck of it. I definitely want the mb block. Stock fan is annoying as heck when running.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> 240 radiator fits 100%, 360 fits depending on your top radiator. I haven't tried if 280 or 420 rads fit but they might with a little modding.


I currently got a 360 radiator in the top, but a 420 I highly doubt would fit. It just I bought a new 360 radiator, very big one at that. I just hope I can still fit it up there, otherwise I going to have to do some modding up there since this is a very heavy and big radiator.

So a 240 can fit down there. How big of a 240 radiator?







I kind of going all out on this upgrade, plus give me something to do new years week that I get off.


----------



## Fonne

Already blown my budget, so really trying to see how to keep the price down ... Is looking at this setup now:



The ST30 will be in the front where my mATX board is pretty large, so really cant run push/pull on it ... The two XT45 280mm will be in my pedestal, but maybe its worth going all in and run push/pull on them ? - Would add 64 Euro to the price ...



ST30 in the front + XT45 in the pedestal .... When all the wires, tubes etc is running between the motherboard and the front of the case, their is really only room to fit a ST30 in push setup.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Already blown my budget, so really trying to see how to keep the price down ... Is looking at this setup now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ST30 will be in the front where my mATX board is pretty large, so really cant run push/pull on it ... The two XT45 280mm will be in my pedestal, but maybe its worth going all in and run push/pull on them ? - Would add 64 Euro to the price ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ST30 in the front + XT45 in the pedestal .... When all the wires, tubes etc is running between the motherboard and the front of the case, their is really only room to fit a ST30 in push setup.


Hehe, I think I already blown my budget way out. So I am to the point, go all out or go home.

I have to say those Caselab cases always look so nice. Maybe someday I will get one.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> BP ram plates with EK Monarch x4 blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time purchase where BP was a bit cheaper then EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Couldn't wait for the EK plates to be in stock so I picked up the BP plates instead. From the pics, it looks like the BP sit the block a bit lower then the EK plates. Should all work since the spacing is set the same for all blocks (Corsair Dominator spacing).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been bidding on some Samsung ram but they are so tiny....I think the plates will make them look more manly after i have milled 15mm off the bottoms of them,added the Dom extended HS and bolted them on.


----------



## Akula




----------



## wermad

Nice work and pics


----------



## szeged

AHH! REAL MONSTERS!







got some primochill hard acrylic too














thanks to vaporizer on the forums for selling me a monsta of cheap! 3 more coming in soon this coming week.

more in my build log if anyones interested.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> AHH! REAL MONSTERS!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got some primochill hard acrylic too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks to vaporizer on the forums for selling me a monsta of cheap! 3 more coming in soon this coming week.
> 
> more in my build log if anyones interested.


You going w/ Ghost or Revolver?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You going w/ Ghost or Revolver?


revolver most likely.


----------



## LunaP

Wasn't there an upcoming Acrylic kit coming up w/ a Heat gun additions? Or is it better to get it all separately?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wasn't there an upcoming Acrylic kit coming up w/ a Heat gun additions? Or is it better to get it all separately?


Forming tool kit?

edit:

http://www.modders-inc.com/monsoon-premium-water-cooling-components-hardline-tubing/


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wasn't there an upcoming Acrylic kit coming up w/ a Heat gun additions? Or is it better to get it all separately?


PPC announced a kit coming out soon, with a heatgun for 10$ more.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Forming tool kit?
> 
> edit:
> 
> http://www.modders-inc.com/monsoon-premium-water-cooling-components-hardline-tubing/


This looks good too







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> PPC announced a kit coming out soon, with a heatgun for 10$ more.


Yeah this! Thanks


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, can't wait for that kit. Reason I waiting off on my second round of watercooling parts ordering.

I have to say the Primochill Revolvers are nice. Got me a set of 10 to play with once I start my rebuild later on.


----------



## IT Diva

So more parts for my build came in today, and I couldn't not work on something, so I polished the links for the 3 out of 4 GPU blocks that came, and one of the GPU blocks . . . . I already did the bridges.

What a pain it was to get it back together, with the squirrely friggin' O rings . . But I was confident that it had gone back together properly, but I figured I better leak test it to be absolutely sure.

They frost both sides of the acrylic, so you have to tear it down and polish both sides to make it clear.

Been running for a while now on a D5 S and no trace of a leak..

I'm pretty pleased with the way it came out as well.

Now that I've done the first one and figured out a system to get the O rings in right, the next 3 won't be so bad . . . I hope . . .

Darlene


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys









Bad news









As I was screwing in my EK-FC Parallel block to my two EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acyrlic blocks, I cracked one of them, and when I tested my loop, it sprung a leak and I had to remove it









Is there any way I can purchase just the acrylic top for the EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acrylic block? Someone please help


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad news
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was screwing in my EK-FC Parallel block to my two EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acyrlic blocks, I cracked one of them, and when I tested my loop, it sprung a leak and I had to remove it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any way I can purchase just the acrylic top for the EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acrylic block? Someone please help


Its very common to see the plexi tops crack when screwing on the bridge or the acetal piece for these new "Clean" deisgned blocks.

Hit up EK support. I know a few ppl that got free replacements tops.

I was warned when i got my 780 "Goldfish" style Clean blocks not to over tighten the screws or you can crack the top. I sold my cards and blocks along w/ a bridge and sadly, the new owner ended up cracking them. When I had mine, i just gently turned the screws until snug and tight. Don't crank them up or you'll crack them again.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad news
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was screwing in my EK-FC Parallel block to my two EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acyrlic blocks, I cracked one of them, and when I tested my loop, it sprung a leak and I had to remove it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any way I can purchase just the acrylic top for the EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acrylic block? Someone please help


You should be able to get one from EK directly. Iv'e been told they send out just the plates for RMA's, so they should be able to do just the tops as well.

This is the reason why I go with acetal, the acrylic is just too damned soft.


----------



## Ithanul

Anyway, I bored. Time for pictures!















My first batch of watercooling parts.

Edit: Did a little rebalance on the photos.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Anyway, I bored. Time for pictures!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first batch of watercooling parts.


Nice. Good choice on the reservoir. I'm using one as well and I love it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Anyway, I bored. Time for pictures!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first batch of watercooling parts.


Nice parts....pics could use some adjustment though.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Nice. Good choice on the reservoir. I'm using one as well and I love it.


I saw it on FrozenCPU, and was like thats a awesome looking reservoir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nice parts....pics could use some adjustment though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, I was going without a flash on my camera. May go back later, and correct the white balance in Photoshop.


----------



## skupples

Silly EK. Leaving out the little nut, that i'm using to lock down the rear of the back plate on these shorties.


----------



## Dveight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennychen*
> 
> Hi all, I'm new to water cooling and below is the specs I've just assembled
> 
> i5 4430
> Palit GTX 760
> 180mm Magicool Radiator
> 180mm Phobya Silent fan @ 500rpm
> XSPC D5 Vario with EK X-res 100 @ 1800rpm
> EK GTX670 full cover block
> EK CSQ Clear CPU block
> XSPC Clear tubing 3/8 ID 5/8 OD
> 
> The results after 30 minutes stress testing by MSI kombustor on GTX 760 the temps were 83c for GPU and 65c for CPU respectively
> 
> Is the temps normal for my setup? When I press on the tubing I feel it's soften due to the heat generated causing thus I'm worried if the tubing can take this temperature.


crank the fan speed up to 1000rpms its not gonna be loud enough to hear so ull be fine an like they said turn ur pump up. also make sure you dont have air in ur cpu an gpu block.


----------



## ledzepp3

Figured I'd be best asking it here. Does *anyone* know where I can get a set of two acetal and nickel Mips memory blocks to fit a set of Corsair Dominators? I'm downright desperate at this point in time... I'm more than willing to buy them used.

-Zepp


----------



## skupples

Didn't mips go out of business?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So earlier I was trying to see what sized thermal pads I needed on the VRM's and RAM on my 7950 and placed my waterblock on it without thermal pads or thermal paste (stupid, I know) and when I lifted the waterblock off the card I seen that two of the corners of the die cracked off






















I didn't screw the block in or anything just gently placed the block on to try to gauge the size of the thermal pads needed. The pieces that cracked off two of the corners is only a little larger than a grain of sand. I noticed because two corners weren't sharp anymore. I wish I thought that through more!! I'm going to test the card tomorrow and see if it still works. To frustrated now I don't want to do anything else without having a sharp thought process.

What do you guys think?? Any similar experiences? Hopeful words? I'm pretty bummed about my stupidity right now.

I'm not totally sure how the mirror finish works and if that is just a layer over the actual core or not. Anyone know?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Didn't mips go out of business?


They did earlier this year I believe, but I've been dying to get one of their blocks...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> They did earlier this year I believe, but I've been dying to get one of their blocks...


I would kill a man for their copper MVE block. Can't find one anywhere and I'm not adding nickel to my loop with EKs version of the MVE block. Give me your MVE MIPS people!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> They did earlier this year I believe, but I've been dying to get one of their blocks...


You and anyone else who's been cooling for multiple years. It's hot stuff now. Sad really, I would guess the skilled employee's probably moved onto alphacool/EK.

@RavageTheEarth


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I'll take a picture so you guys can see the damage. I just want to sink into a hole right now lol. Not like it's going to be easy for me to get another 7950..


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'll take a picture so you guys can see the damage. I just want to sink into a hole right now lol. Not like it's going to be easy for me to get another 7950..


Ouch, yeah with the current craze for them.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

and I just noticed a third one. God I'm stupid...



So what do you guys think? Is my precious baby 7950 dead? They actually look worse in the picture than they really are. Well.. who knows how bad they really are.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and I just noticed a third one. God I'm stupid...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you guys think? Is my precious baby 7950 dead?


I count 4-5 nicks. Only way to know is power it up. Iv'e only read stories about cracks across the die, not chips off of the side. Aren't they encased in glass of some sort?








I fried my digital TV cable box a bit ago, then 10 minutes later realized it was friday the 13th.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I count 4-5 nicks. Only way to know is power it up. Iv'e only read stories about cracks across the die, not chips off of the side. Aren't they encased in glass of some sort?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fried my digital TV cable box a bit ago, then 10 minutes later realized it was friday the 13th.


My godd..... it is (was) Friday the 13th! That explains it! Well if I test it on Saturday the 14th maybe it will work??


----------



## skupples




----------



## wermad

Looks like you may have applied too much force on the screws. The tim on the die squeezes out and forms a thin layer to fill in the minor voids in the imperfections of the heatsink and core. I've dried fitted blocks before to avoid wasting tim. As someone mentioned, put her back together and fire her up. Just don't forget the tim


----------



## jleslie246

you are fine. fire it up


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like you may have applied too much force on the screws. The tim on the die squeezes out and forms a thin layer to fill in the minor voids in the imperfections of the heatsink and core. I've dried fitted blocks before to avoid wasting tim. As someone mentioned, put her back together and fire her up. Just don't forget the tim


I actually just placed the block on top of the GPU to see what size thermal pads I would need. No screws or anything. Just gently placed the block on







Can't believe I didn't think of putting thermal paste on while trying though.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> you are fine. fire it up


YES! That is what I needed! Some hope & love









We will see tomorrow if she works. I can't sleep though because it's eating at me so maybe I will do it tonight. Not sure yet.


----------



## Solonowarion

After a year my build is done. Finished sleeving my acrylic tubes. Will post pics tommorow.

Off topic but can anyone point me in the direction of these alpenfohn fans I keep hearing about? I am in canada but would order overseas.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> After a year my build is done. Finished sleeving my acrylic tubes. Will post pics tommorow.
> 
> Off topic but can anyone point me in the direction of these alpenfohn fans I keep hearing about? I am in canada but would order overseas.


http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This is the reason why I go with acetal, the acrylic is just too damned soft.


Erm...acetal is the soft one,plexi is just brittle.....


----------



## Belial

I'm going to buy these I think for my replace-tubing of H60 2013/H110

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15179/ex-tub-1171/Alphacool_G14_90_Low_Profile_Fitting_Adapter_-_Deep_Black.html?tl=g30c101s1306


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9554/ex-tub-506/Bitspower_Matte_Black_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_14_ID.html?tl=g30c407s1028



Black o-rings because the stock green on above fittings is ugly ;/

Mayhem Pastel Blueberry, X1 Blue Concentrate, Dark Blue Dye.
Primochill Advanced LRT clear 1/4 x 3/8, 3/8 x 1/2

However, 1 question left, about the reservoir, before I make a purchase - would a weak pump mean I can't use a certain reservoir, or any relationship? I mean a weak pump can pull from an ocean so... must be okay, right?

Because I thought the $25 swiftech micro res was my only option in my budget, but I didnt' see all the tube res' I could get for $30-40, which are awesome! The alphacool corp things, I might go for that instead of the micro res... there's the 10lt ($35) and 25lt($40) that seem to be in budget.

There's also a couple 'inline res'. Do these have to be run sideways like that, can I not just flip them over? And likewise, can I not run the alphacool tubes 'inline'? I'm a bit confused on that...

Any recommendations are appreciated


















edit: on second thought, i think it'll look better if the order was changed to Block ->Res -> Rad -> Block so the tubing isn't reaching all through all the extensions and everything.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I currently got a 360 radiator in the top, but a 420 I highly doubt would fit. It just I bought a new 360 radiator, very big one at that. I just hope I can still fit it up there, otherwise I going to have to do some modding up there since this is a very heavy and big radiator.
> 
> So a 240 can fit down there. How big of a 240 radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kind of going all out on this upgrade, plus give me something to do new years week that I get off.


Sorry I tought you removed the 5,25", silly me







. But still a 240 will fit if you mod the bottom off the 5,25" bays. I have a 50mm radiator push/pull and there is still alot of room, so 60mm rad and maby monsta fits. Also I've seen guys using the phobya 200mm V1 rad in there without modding.

Edit. Also check out the HAF club here on ocn.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hehe, I think I already blown my budget way out. So I am to the point, go all out or go home.
> 
> I have to say those Caselab cases always look so nice. Maybe someday I will get one.


The Caselab is just a really nice case to work with, amazing quaity









Maybe I should just to with push/pull in the XT45 in the pedestal, is going to cool 2x GTX760 and a i7-4770k ...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Erm...acetal is the soft one,plexi is just brittle.....


Maybe soft was the wrong word. What I meant to say was: Iv'e seen way more stories of broken acrylic blocks than anything else on the few watercooling forums I visit, including this one.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good. I like the color combo on the psu cables.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Erm...acetal is the soft one,plexi is just brittle.....
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe soft was the wrong word. What I meant to say was: Iv'e seen way more stories of broken acrylic blocks than anything else on the few watercooling forums I visit, including this one.
Click to expand...

Acetal suffer from stripped screw threads,not cracks,bet you will see plenty of those too.

Aquasuite touchscreen is fitted in the S3 ped.


----------



## khemist

Monsoon bay res for ddc.

Looking forward to getting this installed in my TJ08-E.


----------



## skupples

Ohh, that's nice!

I'm pretty sure this build will house my last bay res though. I'm getting tired of the lack of routing options they provide.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon bay res for ddc.
> 
> Looking forward to getting this installed in my TJ08-E.


How do you like it? This is what I am looking at for my FT02BW ESXi box. No way I am using this POS Koolance RP402-X2 again.


----------



## khemist

It looks and feels quality but i don't have it installed just yet... probably during next week i will get around to it.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys just wanted to give an update from my horrific experience last night


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








and let you all know that my 7950 is still working! Just played some Crysis and didn't encounter anything out of the ordinary! Lesson learned. I'll do some more testing tonight and hope that she doesn't give out randomly (knock on wood). Knock on some wood for me guys!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys just wanted to give an update from my horrific experience last night
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and let you all know that my 7950 is still working! Just played some Crysis and didn't encounter anything out of the ordinary! Lesson learned. I'll do some more testing tonight and hope that she doesn't give out randomly (knock on wood). Knock on some wood for me guys!


I think you are good to go, a big ol crack down the middle would of been a different story, but small nicks of out the edge should remain non issue.

btw, what drill bit would people recommend for drilling a hole straight through 3mm thick matte acrylic?

This seems to be the best bet.









this seems like the teeth would be too large.









meh, seems like this would also crack it.


----------



## pc-illiterate

run a hole saw in reverse and the tpi doesnt matter near as much. it is the best way to cut thin metal also.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> run a hole saw in reverse and the tpi doesnt matter near as much. it is the best way to cut thin metal also.


Went out and picked up one of those diamond tipped hole cutters for tile/glass/plastic. Should work, though i'm almost positive it's used, so means I got one that some one used, & returned. Guess i'll do the same.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys just wanted to give an update from my horrific experience last night
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and let you all know that my 7950 is still working! Just played some Crysis and didn't encounter anything out of the ordinary! Lesson learned. I'll do some more testing tonight and hope that she doesn't give out randomly (knock on wood). Knock on some wood for me guys!
> 
> 
> 
> I think you are good to go, a big ol crack down the middle would of been a different story, but small nicks of out the edge should remain non issue.
> 
> btw, what drill bit would people recommend for drilling a hole straight through 3mm thick matte acrylic?
> 
> This seems to be the best bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this seems like the teeth would be too large.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> meh, seems like this would also crack it.
Click to expand...

What size hole?
You need a bladed cutter,not an abrasive like that diamond borer.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What size hole?
> You need a bladed cutter,not an abrasive like that diamond borer.


Just under 1", Already picked up a diamond borer, but home depot is right around the corner if you think it's not going to work. I have some extra acrylic I tested it on, it's not terrible, but it seems something better exists. The guy @ home depot (probably an acrylic noob) didn't think the teethed heads would work very well.

The purpose is to cut a hole through my ColdZero manufactured mid plate. Iv'e already taken a dremel cutter to it to make room for a fan, worked out pretty well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What size hole?
> You need a bladed cutter,not an abrasive like that diamond borer.
> 
> 
> 
> Just under 1", Already picked up a diamond borer, but home depot is right around the corner if you think it's not going to work. I have some extra acrylic I tested it on, it's not terrible, but it seems something better exists. The guy @ home depot (probably an acrylic noob) didn't think the teethed heads would work very well.
> 
> The purpose is to cut a hole through my ColdZero manufactured mid plate. Iv'e already taken a dremel cutter to it to make room for a fan, worked out pretty well.
Click to expand...

Should of asked Ricardo to do it before shipping.

I would use a step borer very slowly with a drill press.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Should of asked Ricardo to do it before shipping.
> 
> I would use a step borer very slowly with a drill press.


I don't have a drill press, & those heads were EXTREMELY expensive. Also, I would of had no idea where to have Ric cut the hole. Owellz! I'll just tape it off, use a bit of water & take it slowly. Worked so far on the test sheets.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Should of asked Ricardo to do it before shipping.
> 
> I would use a step borer very slowly with a drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a drill press, & those heads were EXTREMELY expensive. Also, I would of had no idea where to have Ric cut the hole. Owellz! I'll just tape it off, use a bit of water & take it slowly. Worked so far on the test sheets.
Click to expand...

Good luck,remember to have a panel underneath to prevent bursting.


----------



## IT Diva

I've been using hole saws for decades to cut larger holes in acrylic.

Be sure to use the good quality ones with the bi-metal blades, and never use it for anything else but acrylic.

The most important thing is to be sure your work piece is clamped down to something you can drill into, so it won't pop up when the bit comes thru and break stuff. It also keeps the drill centered once it's coming thru giving you cleaner ID edges.

If you're using the abrasive cutter, use coolant (water) to keep the acrylic from melting and filling in its grit.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've been using hole saws for decades to cut larger holes in acrylic.
> 
> Be sure to use the good quality ones with the bi-metal blades, and never use it for anything else but acrylic.
> 
> The most important thing is to be sure your work piece is clamped down to something you can drill into, so it won't pop up when the bit comes thru and break stuff. It also keeps the drill centered once it's coming thru giving you cleaner ID edges.
> 
> If you're using the abrasive cutter, use coolant (water) to keep the acrylic from melting and filling in its grit.
> 
> Darlene


You could also old skool it and fret saw it out....I have got quite attached recently to my fret saw,I love it more than my Dremel....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good luck,remember to have a panel underneath to prevent bursting.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could also old skool it and fret saw it out....I have got quite attached recently to my fret saw,I love it more than my Dremel....


I wish they made graphite bore heads for dremels, I had amazing luck cutting out room for a fan with the standard graphite head.

anyways, will be doing the dirty shortly, i'm finding it hard to take this final titan out of my bench & replace it with a 480.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think you are good to go, a big ol crack down the middle would of been a different story, but small nicks of out the edge should remain non issue.
> 
> btw, what drill bit would people recommend for drilling a hole straight through 3mm thick matte acrylic?
> 
> This seems to be the best bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this seems like the teeth would be too large.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> meh, seems like this would also crack it.


Yep, option 1 will do the trick just fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think you are good to go, a big ol crack down the middle would of been a different story, but small nicks of out the edge should remain non issue.
> 
> btw, what drill bit would people recommend for drilling a hole straight through 3mm thick matte acrylic?
> 
> This seems to be the best bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this seems like the teeth would be too large.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> meh, seems like this would also crack it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, option 1 will do the trick just fine.
Click to expand...

Unless he has a centerbore drill or a drill press,that grit bore will skate around like a Russian ice dancer.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Unless he has a centerbore drill or a drill press,that grit bore will skate around like a Russian ice dancer.


If he gets the a few pieces to test on and get the feel for the tool, he should be fine. I doubt hes gonna gonna bust out the tool and just smash it in. I've used those bores and are pretty easy to keep steady. The rough edges assist in keep in it from sliding all over the place on smooth surfaces.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Unless he has a centerbore drill or a drill press,that grit bore will skate around like a Russian ice dancer.
> 
> 
> 
> If he gets the a few pieces to test on and get the feel for the tool, he should be fine. I doubt hes gonna gonna bust out the tool and just smash it in. I've used those bores and are pretty easy to keep steady. The rough edges assist in keep in it from sliding all over the place on smooth surfaces.
Click to expand...

Once the initial groove is cut that is so..but that initial groove will tend to be cut at an angle when you use hand tools...hence the skating. Took me a while to get the technique down for cutting tiles in bathrooms with hand tools and grinding bores.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Once the initial groove is cut that is so..but that initial groove will tend to be cut at an angle when you use hand tools...hence the skating. Took me a while to get the technique down for cutting tiles in bathrooms with hand tools and grinding bores.


Yeah, I can see poeple struggle with Tiles at first because of how hard they are, but on plastic it's much easier. He can also start the hole, from underneath, so If he messes up, It won't matter as it is not visible, That way, its nearly impossible to mess up!.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yeah, I can see poeple struggle with Tiles at first because of how hard they are, but on plastic it's much easier. He can also start the hole, from underneath, so If he messes up, It won't matter as it is not visible, That way, its nearly impossible to mess up!.


I'm going to test on one of those extra panels, then clamp it down & come through the back, then sand it down with 1500 grit...

anyways, trip titties!





no light box, or fancy camera, sorry!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I'm still reveling in the glory of my MSI TFIII 7950 surviving those chips in the die.







Does anyone know what size thermal pads I should be using with my Alphacool 7950 waterbocks? That is the whole reason I cracked the die. By placing the waterblock on (no screws) with no TIM or thermal pads to try to gauge the size needed. The ones that came with the block sucked and made the car bend. Sonda5 suggests to use .5mm on the memory and 1mm on the VRMs for my Heatkiller 7970, but I'm not sure about the Alphacool 7950. By these pictures, what do you guys think?




What you see here are the thermal pads that came with the block on the memory and a double stack of the thermal pads that came with the card on the VRM's.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'm still reveling in the glory of my MSI TFIII 7950 surviving those chips in the die.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what size thermal pads I should be using with my Alphacool 7950 waterbocks? That is the whole reason I cracked the die. By placing the waterblock on (no screws) with no TIM or thermal pads to try to gauge the size needed. The ones that came with the block sucked and made the car bend. Sonda5 suggests to use .5mm on the memory and 1mm on the VRMs for my Heatkiller 7970, but I'm not sure about the Alphacool 7950. By these pictures, what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you see here are the thermal pads that came with the block on the memory and a double stack of the thermal pads that came with the card on the VRM's.


I use a bit of blu tack as the filler,mount the block,disassemble and see what kind of squish i get. You want the thinnest pads you can


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm going to test on one of those extra panels, then clamp it down & come through the back, then sand it down with 1500 grit...
> 
> anyways, trip titties!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no light box, or fancy camera, sorry!


Very cool Skupp!

No lighbox or fancy camera, sounds like your're ripping Szeged


----------



## u3b3rg33k

skupples/ravage, those pics!!!

as for drilling hoes in things, I have found placing the drill bit by hand and tapping it with a hammer (lightly!) to create a point / divot helps a lot at times. I have a drill press too though, so I use that when possible.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How do you like it? This is what I am looking at for my FT02BW ESXi box. No way I am using this POS Koolance RP402-X2 again.


I've been using one with a D5 pump installed for 5 months now. It's really nice. The build quality is great, I haven't had any issues with it.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How do you like it? This is what I am looking at for my FT02BW ESXi box. No way I am using this POS Koolance RP402-X2 again.


I have a D5 one and love it. Seems very high quality to me. LED is kinda cool and nice that it is sleeved.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use a bit of blu tack as the filler,mount the block,disassemble and see what kind of squish i get. You want the thinnest pads you can


Hmm can I get blu tack at a store or does it have to be ordered online?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I have a D5 one and love it. Seems very high quality to me. LED is kinda cool and nice that it is sleeved.


The LEDs are really nice. Plenty of colors. I was actually thinking of taking it out though. I think I can replace it with a single strip of SMD5050 LEDs and route the wires through the hole the power comes out of. That way I can control it with the IR controller that the rest of my lights are controlled by.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> skupples/ravage, those pics!!!
> 
> as for drilling hoes in things, I have found placing the drill bit by hand and tapping it with a hammer (lightly!) to create a point / divot helps a lot at times. I have a drill press too though, so I use that when possible.


Thanks for the tips folks, mid day snack & beer has been devoured, time to get back to work. I don't know why it takes me so long to block my cards, but it always takes me a good hour to get it all done up. I'm meticulous when doing so. People lawlz @ me, but I TIM both sides of the thermal pad with a light coating, which takes allot of time. I also clean the PCB every time I take the blocks off w/ 99% and or Indigo Xtreme clean. ( the most hard core cleaner I have ever found, you could probably use it to remove tattoos)


----------



## brandon6199

My first watercooling build






















Too bad I cracked the acrylic on my second EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acrylic block... will have to get by with just one GTX 780 Ti for now


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hmm can I get blu tack at a store or does it have to be ordered online?


It's the stuff you hang up posters with. Might be called something different on other side of the pond


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> My first watercooling build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad I cracked the acrylic on my second EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acrylic block... will have to get by with just one GTX 780 Ti for now


Looks great! Nice work!


----------



## skupples

Dat drill bit was WORTHLESS... anyways, I ended up just using a 30 year old drill bit, tapped a hole, then used the old school thingy.

one of these.



That diamond borer did exactly what a few people said it would "ice skate" came out great using the above. Time to go get my money back & tell the guy @ homedepot he's a nub. The diamond bit would of worked great in a press though.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Very cool Skupp!
> 
> No lighbox or fancy camera, sounds like your're ripping Szeged


you dont need a fancy camera or lightbox, i just like having them


----------



## audioholic

Finally got the Prodigy able to be used. Still have a long way to go. Custom cables, window side panels and some tweaking.


----------



## szeged

anyone have any size comparisons of the primochill revolver fittings vs the bitspower multi link fittings? thinking i might go bitspower and e22 tube if the primochill ones are big and bulky looking.


----------



## skupples

I'm. such. a. nub. Cut the hole too shallow, so that it was right over the rad, so now it's an egg shaped hole to make it work.









Oh, i'll have that fancy camera some day, just not today.


----------



## kpoeticg

Don't necessarily need a "fancy" camera. A used DSLR, Tripod, & Lighting is all you need. Photoshop can take care of the rest








$200 bux could get you setup.
$500 for bells and whistles. I can't afford bells & whistles right now either


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Don't necessarily need a "fancy" camera. A used DSLR, Tripod, & Lighting is all you need. Photoshop can take care of the rest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $200 bux could get you setup.
> $500 for bells and whistles. I can't afford bells & whistles right now either


not even that







i built a lightbox for roughly...$5 and got my camera for $179 down from $300 because of some deal i had lol.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Don't necessarily need a "fancy" camera. A used DSLR, Tripod, & Lighting is all you need. Photoshop can take care of the rest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $200 bux could get you setup.
> $500 for bells and whistles. I can't afford bells & whistles right now either


O, much this. Though, ever since I bought the new lens earlier this year. The dang camera in total value almost cost as much as my computer build.







But, dang can I get good airshow photos with that lens. Had fun taking pics of the Snow Birds up at the Sacramento Airshow.


----------



## kpoeticg

Here's the "Lightbox" i built when i was still using my GS3 Camera


















I got my Olympus Evolt E-500 Kit for about 180. Came with the Camera, 14-45mm Lens, 45-150mm Lens, Accessory Flash, Remote, Battery, Card, & Charger. Not a bad deal. Not the newest camera, but with photoshop it definitely does the trick









I'm about to order some white umbrella lighting from ebay tho along with some seamless backdrop paper


----------



## szeged

how i made mine

http://www.wikihow.com/Create-an-Inexpensive-Photography-Lightbox

lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Sweet. That looks pretty tight. I was thinking of going with a "Tent" setup instead of the umbrella's, but i got an overwhelming vote for white umbrella's in my build log.


----------



## skupples

time to breath for a bit, tried the old method of cards in first, link on second, but that is a MAJOR PITA w/ the triple block. Might have to pull them out & stick all three in @ once...

I'm having major derps with the O-rings for some reason, can't get them to stick for the life of me.

I'm using a digital camera that cost less than the 64gb ram chip inside of it.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> how i made mine
> 
> http://www.wikihow.com/Create-an-Inexpensive-Photography-Lightbox
> 
> lol.


Nice, I need to make me one.

My big camera. May now be a old model, but still takes very nice pics.




Sucky camera on phone took the shots.


----------



## skupples

I just want a 16-22 mega pixel camera with a macro(micro?) lens for those super shiny close ups.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd focus more on the lens and less on the camera MP's. If you take RAW photos and use Adobe PS Lightroom or Elements, MP's don't matter as much. A good 50mm lens can easily run you a few hundred bux tho.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just want a 16-22 mega pixel camera with a macro(micro?) lens for those super shiny close ups.


http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-FinePix-S8200-16-2MP-Digital/dp/B00ATM1NAU

i got one from a local best buy for like $169/$179 dont remember the exact price, but its definitely worth it imo


----------



## skupples

I'll drop a hint to the woman, she will probably go herp da derp "what can I get for xxx" & the guy will mentally rub hands together and say THIS ONE IS ONLY 3390342034230$!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'd focus more on the lens and less on the camera MP's. If you take RAW photos and use Adobe PS Lightroom or Elements, MP's don't matter as much. A good 50mm lens can easily run you a few hundred bux tho.


No kidding. My D90 may not have the highest of MPs anymore. But, it got enough to push out nice pics. Yeah, good lenses cost a lot. I lucked out getting that one currently on my camera on Amazon before they started to charge tax. Tax on a 1 grand lens would of sucked.

On another note, soon to have almost all my stuff for my radiator flush system. Now to wait for all the stuff to get shipped here.


----------



## kpoeticg

My Evolt's only 8MP. Higher MP really just allows you to print on larger paper.

I got my whole rad flushing setup at home depot


----------



## VSG

I am probably an idiot for being into both custom computers and photography- I have spent about $7k on my camera gear so far


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am probably an idiot for being into both custom computers and photography- I have spent about $7k on my camera gear so far


Yeah i'm intentionally trying to limit my camera needs to build log pics


----------



## skupples

Totally worth it. If I had a quality lens I could post photos of all the crap that came out of my rads. A few people have said "oh not much @ the bottom" the stuff @ the bottom is what was too big for the filter to catch. You gotta give the filter a close look.


----------



## Ithanul

The route I went, I saved a few good bucks. Pump only cost me 37, filter housing 14, got two danger dens barbs for 99 cents ea, 10 foot of tubing around 8 bucks, and filter was like a few bucks. Only thing I grabbed at home depot was the brass barbs for the filter housing, and got me a digital heat gun.







Going to have fun with this heatgun, and once I get the dremel. Someone going to have to hide it from me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Totally worth it. If I had a quality lens I could post photos of all the crap that came out of my rads. A few people have said "oh not much @ the bottom" the stuff @ the bottom is what was too big for the filter to catch. You gotta give the filter a close look.


Well, when I do my flush, I will take pics. And good luck at this crap hiding from me. I have to check oil filters on a jet engine almost every week for crap....thats a total of two filters per engine if I don't count the APU.


----------



## kpoeticg

The Dewalt Wagner Digital Gun? I got that too.
Might wanna dbl check that the DD Barbs aren't aluminum. Aluminum + Copper = disaster waiting to happen


----------



## skupples

I just used compression fittings that I had on hand, not counting the reducers from the depot.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The Dewalt Wagner Digital Gun? I got that too.
> Might wanna dbl check that the DD Barbs aren't aluminum. Aluminum + Copper = disaster waiting to happen


Yep, got that heatgun. Hmmm, how would I check to see if they are Aluminum?


----------



## skupples

magnet?


----------



## kpoeticg

Find em on FrozenCPU or PerformancePCs. If they're silver color it's a decent chance. I'm pretty sure alot of DD barbs are aluminum


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


That is SEXXXY! Gudd I love copper!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That is SEXXXY! Gudd I love copper!


nuh bruh, it's pure guld. All I really need now is a motherboard shroud.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> magnet?


Naw, they're both non-ferrous. But, you could drop it in water and use Archimedes' principle to find the density


----------



## saer

Any update on the EK blocks for RIVBE ?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Any update on the EK blocks for RIVBE ?


Should be getting close to that time shouldn't it? I'll sadly be skipping out for now. I'll just be blasting the VRM's with a fan for now. Maybe when I go case labs next year i'll have room for a second loop.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Any update on the EK blocks for RIVBE ?


Tiborr posted on the EK club saying that its under production
I cant wait myself


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> time to breath for a bit, tried the old method of cards in first, link on second, but that is a MAJOR PITA w/ the triple block. Might have to pull them out & stick all three in @ once...
> 
> I'm having major derps with the O-rings for some reason, can't get them to stick for the life of me.
> 
> I'm using a digital camera that cost less than the 64gb ram chip inside of it.


My RIVE build has triple Matrix's which use the FC Terminal.

I had to put the block onto 1 card at a time, and then put the assembly into the mobo.

A bit of silicone grease is what you'll need to tame the skinny azzed O rings that won't stay in place for squat.

I use the kind you get from the dive shop.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My RIVE build has triple Matrix's which use the FC Terminal.
> 
> I had to put the block onto 1 card at a time, and then put the assembly into the mobo.
> 
> A bit of silicone grease is what you'll need to tame the skinny azzed O rings that won't stay in place for squat.
> 
> I use the kind you get from the dive shop.
> 
> Darlene





Way ahead of you! I never remember these things being this big of a pain in the arse, I had to take them out & put them on one by one. Also, i'm almost positive PPC skimped me on the O-rings, I remember my last few links coming with all the O-rings needed, this link only came with two O-rings. OH, & for some reason PPC likes to repackage stuff like this, shipping it in bubble wrap. I know that's not how it USE TO COME from EK, as my 480's(580's) & 680's links came in boxes.


----------



## IT Diva

They give you just enough O rings, no extras, and mine came in bubble wrap as well, from FCPU.

Come to think of it, I have 3 or 4 more triples, coulda made you a great deal . . . . still in the bubble wrap

Lotta guys were whining about it not being nicely boxed at the time, looks like it hasn't changed.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> They give you just enough O rings, no extras, and mine came in bubble wrap as well, from FCPU.
> 
> Come to think of it, I have 3 or 4 more triples, coulda made you a great deal . . . . still in the bubble wrap
> 
> Lotta guys were whining about it not being nicely boxed at the time, looks like it hasn't changed.
> 
> 
> Darlene


Hrmm, guess this means EK has switched to the cheapest possible packaging. It came with two rings, so they are under the assumption you have the original & complete block, thus able to salvage the O-rings from the links.


----------



## wermad

Go to Homes and pick up some silicone grease. Helps to keep those damn o-rings in place.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Go to Homes and pick up some silicone grease. Helps to keep those damn o-rings in place.


I got her on lock now, had some out in the garage. One of them wouldn't stay put even with grease, so i fed it to the trash can gods.



Was so out of it by the end of the day today that I put the mid plate in, back of the case on, & socketed the GPU's... All without finishing the basement plumbing.


----------



## ledzepp3

How would you all advise on how to get acrylic tubing to go into a C47 fitting the easiest without ruining the O-rings?

-Zepp


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> My first watercooling build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad I cracked the acrylic on my second EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acrylic block... will have to get by with just one GTX 780 Ti for now


Repair it!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> My first watercooling build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad I cracked the acrylic on my second EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acrylic block... will have to get by with just one GTX 780 Ti for now


Look good. Nice work!









If I were you, I would rotate the front radiator so that the ports at the top. Tubing will look much cleaner that way though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'd focus more on the lens and less on the camera MP's. If you take RAW photos and use Adobe PS Lightroom or Elements, MP's don't matter as much. A good 50mm lens can easily run you a few hundred bux tho.


Cameras are all about the lens and lights,get those 2 and the rest just falls together.........apparently.

My 350d lens falls into the the sucky side but the body is good.


----------



## kpoeticg

WOW, your new Avatar is TRIPPING ME OUT









Anyway, yeah I'm still an absolute complete n00b with photography. There's some sick photographer's on here though, i try to listen when they give advice (@lowfat for instance)


----------



## ginger_nuts

So when I removed my Alphacool Repack Dual DC-LT pumps / res. the other month.

I found the glue / silicone that holds the two back panels together breaking down. I found it all through the res. chamber and in the pumps channels.

I have a feeling that it has made its way into my blocks







as my temps have risen by about 15 celsius at idle on average. Since I am on leave, I hope to find time to clean them.

But my question is;

How would be best to attach them together again?



Glue ?

Silicone ?

Other ?

or could I get enough tension with the screw into the acrylic to seal a rubber seal ?


----------



## kpoeticg

Don't the DC-LT's kinda suck? Any room in your budget for a pump/res upgrade?


----------



## M3TAl

Man ginger, that alphacool res/pump combo has been nothing but problems for you







. No idea how to fix that, sure someone on here does though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So when I removed my Alphacool Repack Dual DC-LT pumps / res. the other month.
> 
> I found the glue / silicone that holds the two back panels together breaking down. I found it all through the res. chamber and in the pumps channels.
> 
> I have a feeling that it has made its way into my blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as my temps have risen by about 15 celsius at idle on average. Since I am on leave, I hope to find time to clean them.
> 
> But my question is;
> 
> How would be best to attach them together again?
> 
> 
> 
> Glue ?
> 
> Silicone ?
> 
> Other ?
> 
> or could I get enough tension with the screw into the acrylic to seal a rubber seal ?


I would try Tensol or Polyweld myself but the res would need to be sparkling clean.

Really,it should hit the bin.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I have upgraded to a D5 and XSPC res. Works a charm









Bugga, I was hoping to use the Alphacool in another rig. like my HTPC.









Oh well, better wait and see what Santa brings me


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cameras are all about the lens and lights,get those 2 and the rest just falls together.........apparently.
> 
> My 350d lens falls into the the sucky side but the body is good.


Well, my two little Tamron lenses must be odd balls. Came with D90 kit I bought.
They served me well for two years.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











I just do this for a hobby and fun. Same with my art. I pulled off two drawings with cheap Crayolas, and people thought I did it with prismacolors.

Anyway, maybe need to talk about the camera stuff in another thread. Otherwise I just going to take pics of radiator flush system once I get all the parts to put it together.


----------



## Maximus Knight

hey guys sorry to butt in, anyone knows why in windows 8 task manager it shows my ram speed at 1600mhz? i have dominator platinum 1866 2x8Gb modules but i OC'ed them to 2000. bios shows target 2000mhz as well...XMP profile enabled


----------



## M3TAl

My Windows 8 task manager shows memory at 1600 Mhz also. In actuality it's running at 1960 MHz.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Some more pron...

Rads in











Plumbing this up is going to be like mouse gynecology.....


----------



## kpoeticg

Don't knock it til you tried it....


----------



## CrSt3r

I love those RADs !







... gotta have more of 'em too ! ^^

And dat C A S E ... still want one


----------



## Maximus Knight

dat alpenfohn fan..


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My Windows 8 task manager shows memory at 1600 Mhz also. In actuality it's running at 1960 MHz.


oh...haha ok i'll just trust what my bios says


----------



## GuestVeea

This is my current build, improved the routing a lot since the last picture I uploaded.
What do you guys think? I would appreciate some tips/suggestions

i7-3770k
GTX 670
MSI Z77A-GD55
8gb RAM
750w PSU
64gb SSD
750gb HDD
Thermaltake Armor Jr.


----------



## skupples

Starting to look like a computer!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to look like a computer!


You can't get that tubing running up to the front rad better looking than that . . . . .









Have another beer and think about that one some more, lol . . .

Running for cover . . .

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can't get that tubing running up to the front rad better looking than that . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have another beer and think about that one some more, lol . . .
> 
> Running for cover . . .
> 
> Darlene


due to the lack of space in this case, most likely not. It also does this...


(was a mock up, not actually blowing rad wash into the psu)

Was literally no other way to do it., & keep the 360 in the front. Good thing is, it will be covered up w/ the side panel.

900D needs to be 1 inch longer, & 1 inch wider.


----------



## Ragsters

Here is mine so far. Comments please! This is my first attempt at water cooling.


----------



## skupples

Jk jk, looks good! Those three fans need a rad.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jk jk, looks good! Those three fans need a rad.


lol. Yeah. I'm going to go push-pull in front and hopefully by next month add a 480 up top in pull.


----------



## wermad

A few more bits ordered for my rig:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can't get that tubing running up to the front rad better looking than that . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have another beer and think about that one some more, lol . . .
> 
> Running for cover . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> due to the lack of space in this case, most likely not. It also does this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (was a mock up, not actually blowing rad wash into the psu)
> 
> Was literally no other way to do it., & keep the 360 in the front. Good thing is, it will be covered up w/ the side panel.
> 
> 900D *needs to be 1 inch longer,* & 1 inch wider.
Click to expand...

You just have noooooo idea of how many times I've said that very same thing about other things over the years . . .









D.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You just have noooooo idea of how many times I've said that very same thing about other things over the years . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


You and me both...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You just have noooooo idea of how many times I've said that very same thing about other things over the years . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> You and me both...
Click to expand...

I think Darlene is saying it for very different reasons.......


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think Darlene is saying it for very different reasons.......


possibly... or...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think Darlene is saying it for very different reasons.......
> 
> 
> 
> possibly... or...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

not a joke to begin with?


----------



## Deepsouth1987

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0103_zps79ed4c18.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0102_zps6c6ab4cb.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0105_zps61e8bef0.jpg.html

I posted this question on the AMD motherboard thread so maybe i should ask you guys see if you maybe know why its doing this.

I started up my system for the first time today and went into bios to see how the CPU temp was and since i have a PWM cable to my water pump to allow the motherboard to control the rpm of the pump.. I noticed that even with that installed the pump was defaulting to 4500rpm. Now i have a dual pump water pump so could it be that both pumps are being defaulted to 4500rpm or the motherboard is telling each one to run at 2250rpm and that is just a total about in bios? I know on the book that came with the MCP35X2 pump it says if the PWM cable is not installed into the motherboard and the 4 pin power connecters are installed it will default the pumps to 4500rpm, but in this case i do have the PWM cable installed to the 4 pin cpu header.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> not a joke to begin with?


Possibly, I guess the "







" through me off.


----------



## LiquidHaus

ANYWHO.

Skupples I really think you should pause at the false floor and rethink the plumbing. You're doing all this nice work and the false floor seems rushed or you simply gave up on it. I agree with Darlene and say grab a beer and stare at it for 2 hours.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to look like a computer!


I have just one problem with the 900D, and it's that there's grommets next to every major size up in motherboards. It just looks.. like a tiny motherboard in there. Otherwise, besides one of BNeg's builds, this has to be the best looking copper one I've seen yet.

-Zepp


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I have just one problem with the 900D, and it's that there's grommets next to every major size up in motherboards. It just looks.. like a tiny motherboard in there. Otherwise, besides one of BNeg's builds, this has to be the best looking copper one I've seen yet.
> 
> -Zepp


It is a tiny motherboard. The Riv:BE is the exact same size as the LGA1155 Maximus V formula. I should have a shroud @ some point in the future to cover them all up though, as it looks very messy imo.

Thank you!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It is a tiny motherboard. The Riv:BE is the exact same size as the LGA1155 Maximus V formula. I should have a shroud @ some point in the future to cover them all up though, as it looks very messy imo.
> 
> Thank you!


make a custom aluminum plate to cover it all up with your own cable routing options









or just get a caselabs


----------



## stickg1

You think two of the Alphacool ST30 240mm rads would be enough to cool a R9 290 and 3570K?


----------



## skupples

Did I mention that I officially hate Bay Reservoirs & that this is my last time using one? Should of got a tube res for my re-used mcp35x2, but the maelstrom sounded like such a great idea!


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You think two of the Alphacool ST30 240mm rads would be enough to cool a R9 290 and 3570K?


I've got a XT45 280 and a ST30 120 cooling my 290 and a 4770K and it's doing fine, so I'd say yes.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> make a custom aluminum plate to cover it all up with your own cable routing options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or just get a caselabs


This.

I did it, and it's worth the effort


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You think two of the Alphacool ST30 240mm rads would be enough to cool a R9 290 and 3570K?


Easily.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You think two of the Alphacool ST30 240mm rads would be enough to cool a R9 290 and 3570K?


For sure, two ST30 240mm rads can cool my 8350 and GTx 770 well enough, and they put out more heat I believe.


----------



## stickg1

I'm trying to piece together a loop from scratch. I had sold off all my previous watercooling build and I've been aircooling for the past month, but it's boring. I couldn't handle the noise from the 290 so I strapped a H55 to it. Despite doing the job, it's ugly as sin.

Also, if anyone is in the States and has some watercooling tib-bits they would be willing to part with PM me. I have an ad up in the Marketplace and in my signature.


----------



## szeged

Hey guys, ordering a new batch of parts for my build on monday, need your help deciding on some things -

primochill revolver black nickle fittings and primochill tubing, or bitspower black sparkle acrylic fittings(not the c47's, their new ones) and some e22 tubing. Atm im leaning to the primochill option because i cant find any 100cm e22 acrylic anywhere, which would mean i would need to spend roughly $50 in the bitspower multi tubing fittings to get things long enough. But im still on the fence because i think the primochills look kinda tacky and bulky, but they are growing on me a bit.

more info can be found in my build log for those that are interested.

thanks for any help.


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i cant find any 100cm e22 acrylic anywhere


I just made the same decision for myself on friday and ordered bitspower C47 fittings and picked up the acrylic tubing from Sidewinder. They've got 36 inch acrylic that fits the C47's.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> 
> 
> I posted this question on the AMD motherboard thread so maybe i should ask you guys see if you maybe know why its doing this.
> 
> I started up my system for the first time today and went into bios to see how the CPU temp was and since i have a PWM cable to my water pump to allow the motherboard to control the rpm of the pump.. I noticed that even with that installed the pump was defaulting to 4500rpm. Now i have a dual pump water pump so could it be that both pumps are being defaulted to 4500rpm or the motherboard is telling each one to run at 2250rpm and that is just a total about in bios? I know on the book that came with the MCP35X2 pump it says if the PWM cable is not installed into the motherboard and the 4 pin power connecters are installed it will default the pumps to 4500rpm, but in this case i do have the PWM cable installed to the 4 pin cpu header.


I have a similar board and the only truly PWM header on my board is the CPU fan header. There are other 4 pin headers, but those are all voltage regulated. I suggest you use the CPU fan header and see if that resolves your issue. With that particular pump though it comes with a splitter. You need to make sure that you use it so that both pumps will be controlled through the CPU fan header. The other connector on the splitter will just report the speed of the second pump. I hope this helps you.


----------



## skupples

I really like the look of the bullet fittings, not sure who makes them though.

Sigh, so I have a serious question. How hard would it be to get a G 1/4 thread bored into the top of my Maelstrom res? I'm asking because i'm down to the last tubing, top rad to res, & the space is such that I have to either A.) go ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL the way across the case, or B.) bore a G 1/4 threaded hole into the top of my maelstrom.



Having to stretch a tube all the way across is going to look horrid. WTB some one to ship my maelstrom to for hole boring/a local shop that could do it.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have a similar board and the only truly PWM header on my board is the CPU fan header. There are other 4 pin headers, but those are all voltage regulated. I suggest you use the CPU fan header and see if that resolves your issue. With that particular pump though it comes with a splitter. You need to make sure that you use it so that both pumps will be controlled through the CPU fan header. The other connector on the splitter will just report the speed of the second pump. I hope this helps you.


Thank you for your reply. I am using the CPU fan header as the plug for the splitter cable that comes with the pump. The other connector on the splitter you must be talking about the 3 pin. As of right now i don't have plugged into anything. Is it normal for the pumps to be running at 4500rpm even with the splitter installed on the cpu header though? My temps on the cpu were idle 25C for a good while. I know i have good flow going though the system but in the long run i am worried about the pumps being MAXed out all the time. I will take a photo of how i have it installed for you.


----------



## kpoeticg

Aquatuning sells a good G1/4 Tap Set + a nice Drill to predrill the hole.
I bought both. I'd recommend that + some thread cutting oil

TAP
Nice Drill Bit


----------



## ledzepp3

Might as well put this p0rn I got up here.. Better get the tissues ready boys













-Zepp


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys just wondering whats your opinion on these fans,thinking of getting two of them for my front case intake....

Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PK-3 140mm

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_598&products_id=23073

Also figured out why my temps had seem higher than usual (mid 50's) ,went back to stock bios and now my temps are back to high 30's to mid 40's depending on ambient and game....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, ordering a new batch of parts for my build on monday, need your help deciding on some things -
> 
> primochill revolver black nickle fittings and primochill tubing, or bitspower black sparkle acrylic fittings(not the c47's, their new ones) and some e22 tubing. Atm im leaning to the primochill option because i cant find any 100cm e22 acrylic anywhere, which would mean i would need to spend roughly $50 in the bitspower multi tubing fittings to get things long enough. But im still on the fence because i think the primochills look kinda tacky and bulky, but they are growing on me a bit.
> 
> more info can be found in my build log for those that are interested.
> 
> thanks for any help.


Something to consider . . . . .

What blocks are you going to be using, not what make, but what exactly are you water cooling . . .

Reason for asking, is that the big Bp or the Revolver are going to look like crap because they are too big if you're going with RAM and mobo blocks.

For just a CPU block and GPUs, the size doesn't make everything in that busy area look too bad, but once you get a lot of them in one small area, and the aesthetics change quick.

Darlene


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Thank you for your reply. I am using the CPU fan header as the plug for the splitter cable that comes with the pump. The other connector on the splitter you must be talking about the 3 pin. As of right now i don't have plugged into anything. Is it normal for the pumps to be running at 4500rpm even with the splitter installed on the cpu header though? My temps on the cpu were idle 25C for a good while. I know i have good flow going though the system but in the long run i am worried about the pumps being MAXed out all the time. I will take a photo of how i have it installed for you.


That will help me see what the issue might be. I've had these pumps before on my own system. I think in my BIOS I had to enable hardware thermal control to get it to control the devices attached to the CPU fan header.


----------



## M3TAl

Hey Bram I'm playing around with the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter right now with 8 Cougar Vortex. All the fans are working for the most part...

One of the fans is kind of making a choppy noise, it's hard to describe. It's only that fan though. Not sure if it's the fan's fault or just too many PWM fans on that single PWM signal. Never noticed problems with that fan on a fan controller. If I set PWM to 0% in SpeedFan the choppy fan stops turning completely. All 7 of the other fans still rotate at around 755 RPM though.

I still have a 2nd PWM splitter to daisy chain and 2 more Vortexes for a total of 10. Guess I could hook all that up and see if more fans start having problems or if it's just that one fan.

Another question. Do you, your engineer, or anyone in this forum know what PWMOUT clock is in SpeedFan Advanced settings? I've googled to my hearts content but can't find any info.The recommended setting per the help file is 3M but it doesn't say why or what PWMOUT clock really is. At 3M and 45% PWM these fans make a low hum/frequency type noise. At 6M that noise is almost entirely gone. At 1.5M there's a high frequency electrical noise.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That will help me see what the issue might be. I've had these pumps before on my own system. I think in my BIOS I had to enable hardware thermal control to get it to control the devices attached to the CPU fan header.


I have the 4 pin connector connected to the extension going to CPU header on the motherboard.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0110_zps65afe369.jpg.html

Then i have both the pump connector ends two of the 12v two of the 4pin connected to the splitter.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0109_zpscc1fa847.jpg.html

and the 3 pin connector that isn't plugged in on the other side of the splitter.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0111_zps0fb52501.jpg.html

Just double checked on the Thermal control and that is also enabled







I just don't want to end up burning up this pump being maxed out, pretty expensive hardware!


----------



## IT Diva

Is it long enough to reach without the extension . . . .

Some extensions are notoriously shoddy and unreliable.

I've seen some that were miswired, even.

But you have everything hooked up right, so check the bios thing, but it should be able to control a CPU fan by default, or are you trying to enable speedfan?

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys just wondering whats your opinion on these fans,thinking of getting two of them for my front case intake....
> 
> Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PK-3 140mm
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_598&products_id=23073
> 
> Also figured out why my temps had seem higher than usual (mid 50's) ,went back to stock bios and now my temps are back to high 30's to mid 40's depending on ambient and game....


Everybody i've seen talk about the PK-3's that own them have nothing but good things to say about them


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That will help me see what the issue might be. I've had these pumps before on my own system. I think in my BIOS I had to enable hardware thermal control to get it to control the devices attached to the CPU fan header.


I can attest to this, had to do it with my old MSi z77 board.

Thanks, poetic, going to look into that. I really don't want to have a hose running alllll the way across the mid section of the case.

Edit: Definitely going to go that route. Thank you! +1


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

I stupidly bought the unajustable d5, and now that I have real fans its the loudest part in my rig. Ia there anyway to turn it down? I have no bays left for a nice fan controller


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is it long enough to reach without the extension . . . .
> 
> Some extensions are notoriously shoddy and unreliable.
> 
> I've seen some that were miswired, even.
> 
> But you have everything hooked up right, so check the bios thing, but it should be able to control a CPU fan by default, or are you trying to enable speedfan?
> 
> Darlene


Thanks Darlene for your reply.

I am going to try without the extension just to see, but my motherboard should be able to control the pump speed regardless of needing to install this program Speedfan right?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is it long enough to reach without the extension . . . .
> 
> Some extensions are notoriously shoddy and unreliable.
> 
> I've seen some that were miswired, even.
> 
> But you have everything hooked up right, so check the bios thing, but it should be able to control a CPU fan by default, or are you trying to enable speedfan?
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Darlene for your reply.
> 
> I am going to try without the extension just to see, but my motherboard should be able to control the pump speed regardless of needing to install this program Speedfan right?
Click to expand...

Yes it should.

I wasn't sure if you were using speedfan already.

To do that, you may have to tick a bios setting to allow a program to control the PWM pin on the cpu header which is otherwise usually controlled by your cpu fan profile in bios.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes it should.
> 
> I wasn't sure if you were using speedfan already.
> 
> To do that, you may have to tick a bios setting to allow a program to control the PWM pin on the cpu header which is otherwise usually controlled by your cpu fan profile in bios.


Oh wow thank you. You were so right. I saw there was a SmartCPU option on the bios to enable via Auto/Voltage/or PWM. When i click on PWM saved and restart back into bios my rpm on the pumps went from 4500 default to 3300rpm. Thank you very much.


----------



## Redefined

Trying to figure out which fans to buy for my bottom Quad 480 Rad. I only have AF120's from Corsair and those aren't going to cut it with little to no static pressure, right? They are on there now, and I think that's why I'm running a bit hot (CPU is at 75C @4.2 under full load - GPU -> CPU loop).

Right now I'm thinking http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835132022 -- 103CFM, 35 DBA, 3.00 SP. Little loud, but with fan controller I can lower it a tad.

Any other suggestions?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Something to consider . . . . .
> 
> What blocks are you going to be using, not what make, but what exactly are you water cooling . . .
> 
> Reason for asking, is that the big Bp or the Revolver are going to look like crap because they are too big if you're going with RAM and mobo blocks.
> 
> For just a CPU block and GPUs, the size doesn't make everything in that busy area look too bad, but once you get a lot of them in one small area, and the aesthetics change quick.
> 
> Darlene


ill be cooling the cpu and gpus at first, but near the end of the build will most likely add in ram and mobo blocks.


----------



## skupples

This is pretty much what she's going to look like! I think I need to take some 1500 or so grit sand paper to the acrylic panels, they are a bit too shiny. Still debating if i'm going to bore a hole in the top of the res, or just drape a tube all the way across the case.

So much open space, going to find a way to mount the A6XT in there some where.


----------



## IT Diva

If I never see another piece of silicon carbide wetsanding paper, it'll be too soon . . . .

I got the full length frosted CSQ blocks for my R9-290X GPUs.

I like the full length look, the frosted look I don't.

But that's what polishing blocks is for isn't it, lol

I have 4 of them to do, (1 is still on the way) so I figured I'd set up something to get repeatable results from one to the next.

I made a little wetsand station on the kitchen sink:



And a little while later:



And a leak test to be sure it's ready to go:



Crank up the 24V D5 Strong for a real stress test:



And then go back to start and repeat . . . . and again:



And can't forget the bridges:



Darlene


----------



## szeged

looks empty without a res in there, another drawback of the bay res imo









edit - looks great Darlene.


----------



## kpoeticg

Love it


----------



## skupples

Think i'll get a Godzilla figurine and stick it in there.

The front is god awful ugly right now until I figure out a way to cap the space above & below the bay res. Another failing of 900D is the stupid face plate bracket system.


----------



## Akula




----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Akula, that looks great!

Skupples you're making me want to break down the acrylic and go with norprene real bad!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Akula, that looks great!
> 
> Skupples you're making me want to break down the acrylic and go with norprene real bad!!!


It's good stuff, just make sure you blast every piece with canned air before hooking it up. It clings like saran wrap, also don't be surprised when it doesn't bend very well.

Thanks! I'm trying to decide if it's going to be worth it to bore a g1/4 hole in the top of my bay res to keep from draping a tube across the middle of the case. Two options, drape the tube, (easiest) option b.) bore a hole, & figure out how to fit the 90 degree male to male turn out of the back of the rad. would probably be easiest to use a barb on the res, then I would just need to use a 90 degree compression off of the rad.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys what's the better investment....

1x240 rad with a couple fittings and 2 Sp fans $153 or

1 datavac $149....


----------



## kpoeticg

Datavac's are awesome, but i dunno about $150 worth of awesome


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Same here,but these australian retailers think different....


----------



## skupples

So... How hard is it to drill the tap hole? My main concern is cracking the res with the threading bit.. I'm ready to order it, i'm just worried about destroying the 130$ res. That drill bit seems a bit large if it's also g1/4.


----------



## pc-illiterate

skup, dont you have enough room behind the rad to run that tube behind it? you do realize you wont get 1/2 the use of that rad exiting the end port right? unless you split the inlet tube and use both ports on the rad as inlet...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> skup, dont you have enough room behind the rad to run that tube behind it? you do realize you wont get 1/2 the use of that rad exiting the end port right? unless you split the inlet tube and use both ports on the rad as inlet...


Nope I have maybe 1/3 of an inch behind the rad. Also, didn't realize it worked like that. You are saying to use a Y splitter to divert half of the flow to each in port? So, basically, when the exit is coming out of the opposite side it's running the water down, & around. If I were to come out the back w/ just one inlet it would only run down one side of the rad? Is that the theory?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So... How hard is it to drill the tap hole? My main concern is cracking the res with the threading bit.. I'm ready to order it, i'm just worried about destroying the 130$ res. That drill bit seems a bit large if it's also g1/4.


The whole idea of coming in the top of the res isn't a good one, especially since you won't have a dip tube so the inlet is below the coolant level.

Every time you shut down, coolant will drain into the res and air will go up into the rad.

Can you gain anything by flipping the rad so the fittings are at the front?

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The whole idea of coming in the top of the res isn't a good one, especially since you won't have a dip tube so the inlet is below the coolant level.
> 
> Every time you shut down, coolant will drain into the res and air will go up into the rad.
> 
> Can you gain anything by flipping the rad so the fittings are at the front?
> 
> 
> Darlene


That's not a half bad idea. I would then be using the single rear port as the inlet, no issue with that?

this is the clearance I have, not sure if flipping the rad would fit.


----------



## LiquidHaus




----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If I never see another piece of silicon carbide wetsanding paper, it'll be too soon . . . .
> 
> I got the full length frosted CSQ blocks for my R9-290X GPUs.
> 
> I like the full length look, the frosted look I don't.
> 
> But that's what polishing blocks is for isn't it, lol
> 
> I have 4 of them to do, (1 is still on the way) so I figured I'd set up something to get repeatable results from one to the next.
> 
> I made a little wetsand station on the kitchen sink:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little while later:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a leak test to be sure it's ready to go:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crank up the 24V D5 Strong for a real stress test:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then go back to start and repeat . . . . and again:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And can't forget the bridges:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Looks great Darlene! How much to do all of mine?







I have 1 GPU block, 2 FC links, south bridge block, and mosfet block.


----------



## skupples

all I would need to make the boring work is a short dip tube!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If I never see another piece of silicon carbide wetsanding paper, it'll be too soon . . . .
> 
> I got the full length frosted CSQ blocks for my R9-290X GPUs.
> 
> I like the full length look, the frosted look I don't.
> 
> But that's what polishing blocks is for isn't it, lol
> 
> I have 4 of them to do, (1 is still on the way) so I figured I'd set up something to get repeatable results from one to the next.
> 
> I made a little wetsand station on the kitchen sink:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a little while later:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a leak test to be sure it's ready to go:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crank up the 24V D5 Strong for a real stress test:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then go back to start and repeat . . . . and again:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And can't forget the bridges:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great Darlene! How much to do all of mine?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 1 GPU block, 2 FC links, south bridge block, and mosfet block.
Click to expand...

I still have the one more gpu block to do when it gets here, lol . . . .

Hoping that the mobo block comes in clean CSQ, but with my luck, it'll be frosted, and I'll have to poilish that one too when it comes out.

Even with the clean CSQ, you still have to polish the sides& ends to have them transparent so the block looks clear:


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That will help me see what the issue might be. I've had these pumps before on my own system. I think in my BIOS I had to enable hardware thermal control to get it to control the devices attached to the CPU fan header.
> 
> 
> 
> I can attest to this, had to do it with my old MSi z77 board.
> 
> Thanks, poetic, going to look into that. I really don't want to have a hose running alllll the way across the mid section of the case.
> 
> Edit: Definitely going to go that route. Thank you! +1
Click to expand...

Try running the tubes in the back of your case use 90 degree fittings


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking mint there mate. Where did you get your 240mm PE-Coolstream rad from?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's not a half bad idea. I would then be using the single rear port as the inlet, no issue with that?
> 
> this is the clearance I have, not sure if flipping the rad would fit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You really shouldn't use that end port as part of your loop. You'll lose at least half the cooling capabilities of the rad.

The flow from the ports in a typical rad like yours (all except crossflow rads) run in one long U-shape. The tubes from one port run down the length of the rad on one side, then the flow is turned around in a small chamber at the end (where that drain/fill port at the end is) and comes back up the other side of the rad. Crossflow rads do similar except in a long S-shape so the inlet/outlet ports end up at opposing ends of the rad.

 

edit:
You can pretty much see what I'm talking about in the cutaway pictures below of an Alphacool rad, with the inlet/outlet ports cut away in the images on the right, and the end-chamber cut away pics on the left. You can see how the flow goes down one side of the rad to the end, and then comes back up the other side. It's the same with your EK rad.


----------



## lowfat

Spent damn near the entire day modifying my FT02 to get the radiator to fit w/ the stock drive cage. Not a single mm to spare.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-4-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1.jpg.html


----------



## phillyd

Working with a Canon Rebel XS....I have no idea what I'm doing. Need to work on it massively. I am capable of doing well in sunlight but I need to do more research to get the full potential out of this cam.
I had to raise the brightness and contrast and change the color warmth. Flash looked decent on the last one.

Teaser for the Larkooler SkyWater 330 water cooling kit. I will do video and text reviews in the coming week or so!

At $130, it could be great for beginning water coolers. Check it out *here*






Packing Peanuts!




Sunbeam controller for my friend's build. VERY cheap






See, this camera has potential!

More pics coming tomorrow!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The whole idea of coming in the top of the res isn't a good one, especially since you won't have a dip tube so the inlet is below the coolant level.
> 
> Every time you shut down, coolant will drain into the res and air will go up into the rad.
> 
> Can you gain anything by flipping the rad so the fittings are at the front?
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> That's not a half bad idea. I would then be using the single rear port as the inlet, no issue with that?
> 
> this is the clearance I have, not sure if flipping the rad would fit.
Click to expand...

that's a bleed screw..not an inlet.

Unicron is correct.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You really shouldn't use that end port as part of your loop. You'll lose at least half the cooling capabilities of the rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The flow from the ports in a typical rad like yours (all except crossflow rads) run in one long U-shape. The tubes from one port run down the length of the rad on one side, then the flow is turned around in a small chamber at the end (where that drain/fill port at the end is) and comes back up the other side of the rad. Crossflow rads do similar except in a long S-shape so the inlet/outlet ports end up at opposing ends of the rad.
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> You can pretty much see what I'm talking about in the cutaway pictures below of an Alphacool rad, with the inlet/outlet ports cut away in the images on the right, and the end-chamber cut away pics on the left. You can see how the flow goes down one side of the rad to the end, and then comes back up the other side. It's the same with your EK rad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> that's a bleed screw..not an inlet.
> 
> 
> 
> Unicron is correct.


Thank you Gentlemen. My only other option (to avoid draping a pipe across the entire rig) is to put the pull fans on top of the case, which would allow me to pipe down the back of the motherboard shroud.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Try running the tubes in the back of your case use 90 degree fittings


due to the size of the 60mm in p/p that won't work. I can get the fitting in there, but it's about 8-10mm too low into the case to fit a tube out of the back. I may have to put the pull fans on top of the case.







I'll look @ it more after work today.


----------



## bennychen

Hi guys, to cool a i5 4430 and single GTX760 on three low fan speed ranging 500-700rpm, what would be the best 360mm radiator? Will a 240mm be sufficient? Thank you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennychen*
> 
> Hi guys, to cool a i5 4430 and single GTX760 on three low fan speed ranging 500-700rpm, what would be the best 360mm radiator? Will a 240mm be sufficient? Thank you


A 360 will serve you well,more is advised if you want lower fan speeds.
A 240 will do the job but you will be running far higher fan speeds


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennychen*
> 
> Hi guys, to cool a i5 4430 and single GTX760 on three low fan speed ranging 500-700rpm, what would be the best 360mm radiator? Will a 240mm be sufficient? Thank you


360mm radiator is generally the standard for a GPU + CPU loop.. I'd say either the Alphacool ST30 or Hardware Labs Black Ice SR1 rads. They're often times regarded as the kings of low RPM radiators.

-Zepp


----------



## rickyman0319

will a kind of dusty radiator be effect the temp of the cpu & gpu or not?


----------



## szeged

got a nice shot of my EK 780 classy block

frozencpu still hasnt gotten around to sending me a replacement top a month later...think theyre trying to wait long enough so they can be like " nah sorry its been two months since you asked"

anyways


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My only other option (to avoid draping a pipe across the entire rig) is to put the pull fans on top of the case, which would allow me to pipe down the back of the motherboard shroud.


There's always another option...

Here's a crazy idea. How about run your water line outside along the top of the case. If you were to run that line as acrylic it could be a very interesting feature.

Just make sure someone doesn't come along and try to use it has a handle to lift the rig.


----------



## skupples

If I'm going to stick something on the outside I would just put the fans up top. I would like to keep the top on if at all possible.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> will a kind of dusty radiator be effect the temp of the cpu & gpu or not?


The more dust there is in a radiator the less cooling surface there will be. So, yes, dust will effect temps if not cleaned periodically. I typically dust out my rads once every month or two.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> will a kind of dusty radiator be effect the temp of the cpu & gpu or not?


Yeah it will, it'll drive the temps up a little bit as long as the dust isn't insanely bad. The worse the dust, the less air that'll go over the actual fins to dissipate heat. I typically keep a couple 120mm and 140mm Silverstone filters on my rads and fans that I can just suck the dust off of.

-Zepp


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The more dust there is in a radiator the less cooling surface there will be. So, yes, dust will effect temps if not cleaned periodically. I typically dust out my rads once every month or two.


if I put a fan filter on the bottom fans, will any dust be on the radiator or not?


----------



## morencyam

You'll still get some dust but not nearly as much as without filters.


----------



## holgate

i built this system a couple months ago, and i ve made a lot of changes. one of my memory sticks failed so i went out and got a set of 16gb corsair dominator gt memory, and it overclocked like a champ. i also changed the reservoir and pump to a pair of swiftech d5 pumps and a pair aquacomputer reservoirs with the d5 pump tops. i love the fountain effect. i also cleaned the wiring up a lot but i still got work to do. im also lookin to turn the amd side into a home server but i really have no reason to other than cause im bored. and i have to clean up some holes i made in the case. but anyway the main reason why im here is because when BF4 came out i started getting kernel power errors and my system would just restart automatically with no blue screen. so i drove all the way to microcenter and got the power supply (corsair hx1000) tested and it passed like i thougt it would, but i bought a corsair 1200i power supply anyway (didnt drive all that way for nothing). so after i changed the power supply everything was fine for a while until about a week or two ago i started getting that error again, so i killed my overclock on my cpu, ram and gpu's, but it still would give me that error and automatically restart. i want to say this also, when im playing BF4 the water in the gpu loop ( i have two loops, one for cpu, ram and mobo and the other for gpu's) gets really hot and to add to that the power supply is right behind the the gpu loop radiator in the bottom compartment. so what im thinking of doing is buying a pedestal to put the both my power supplies in only and also buying a new radiator mount and adding another radiator to the gpu loop. could it be possible that the heat from the radiator is making my psu overheat?

some updated pics (their cell pics so they are bad)


----------



## pc-illiterate

wow. you spent almost $1500 on a case then chop a hole in the top of it on the intel side. sorry but


----------



## wermad

These work great. Should have no issues w/ the gauge of the CL cases:


----------



## NYMD

Two tone MH10 arrives! Build in progress...



Aquaero 6 and IcyDock





AMS 240 in copper and blue



More photos at the link in my sig....


----------



## holgate

Quote:


> wow. you spent almost $1500 on a case then chop a hole in the top of it on the intel side. sorry but poke.gif


yeah well case labs dont sell a mid plate that has holes already for the TX10-D so i had to make due with wat i had at the time and like i said ill be cleaning it up, i bought a drill a little while ago to i just havent had time to do anything because of school, work and a newborn


----------



## holgate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> These work great. Should have no issues w/ the gauge of the CL cases:


yea i finally found some at home depot they didnt have that at the time of the build


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holgate*
> 
> yea i finally found some at home depot they didnt have that at the time of the build


I used them to bore some holes out (~1") for my mb tray on my TH10. A bit trick to use since the aluminum can flex but as long as you have some support or go slow, it should give you a nice hole. Just mark where you want to stop to avoid a bigger hole.

Rig looks great btw


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

They'll work in a pinch, but I don't care so much for using step bits. I like using either a knockout punch or a carbide tip metal cutter hole saw bit for perfect burr-free holes exactly where I want them.


----------



## holgate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I used them to bore some holes out (~1") for my mb tray on my TH10. A bit trick to use since the aluminum can flex but as long as you have some support or go slow, it should give you a nice hole. Just mark where you want to stop to avoid a bigger hole.
> 
> Rig looks great btw


thanks, im still working on it though

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> They'll work in a pinch, but I don't care so much for using step bits. I like using either a knockout punch or a carbide tip metal cutter hole saw bit for perfect burr-free holes exactly where I want them.


i bought a hole saw and drill bit, the problem is that the holes are already there so it may not come out as clean as i want

i dont know if you guys read my original post but im getting kernel power errors with a brand new power supply and my question is does it have something to do with radiator blowing heat onto it (read my original post if you can)


----------



## wermad

dremel time









Just buy a bunch of discs and use some edge trim/guard


----------



## RavageTheEarth

My cart is growing bigger and bigger!!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> My cart is growing bigger and bigger!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*


lulz


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Directly from Hank, the owner of PPC's, in reference to the Monsoon Hard Line bending kits:
> 
> http://www.modders-inc.com/monsoon-premium-water-cooling-components-hardline-tubing/


Can we pre-order the kits now? If so where is the link to order it.

Thanks


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-4-1.jpg.html


Absolutely beautiful. This picture defines the reason I love modding.


----------



## HeyBear

Hi guys,
made a thread with a loop i'm planning for my new build, would appreciate any help you can give









http://www.overclock.net/t/1451582/planned-loop-for-a-900d-help-welcome


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *angel9*
> 
> This thread keeps going and going and going


Well worth the read though. Lots a great information and lots of beautiful builds


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Akula, that looks great!
> 
> Skupples you're making me want to break down the acrylic and go with norprene real bad!!!


As awesome as acrylic is. That tube looks so nice.


----------



## Adrian-E

Hello everybody, I have question about the MCP35x pump. I have already asked this on other treads and I hope that this is the right place to ask.

I am thinking about building a water loop that will look like this.

*Reservoir* (Koolance single bay) > *Pump* (Swiftech MCP35x with Koolance top) > *Radiator* (black ice dual 80mm ) > *CPU block* (koolance) >*quick disconnect* (Koolance) > *Radiator* (Phobya QUAD 480) > *Reservoir* ( EK-RES X3 150 ) >*quick disconnect* (Koolance) > *two GPU blocks* XSPC GTX670 >

My question is, will the one little Swiftech MCP35x pump be able to handle all of this without having to much stress on the pump?


----------



## skupples

I ran my mpc35x2 @ 30%(30%x2) through a similar setup without a problem. So, I would guess you would want to run it ~50% or higher. So, yes it should be fine. If you want to reduce volume go with the MCP35x2 (dual pump) variant, only issue is that you can't change the top on that unit. Well, you can, but the stock top is the best top.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> Hello everybody, I have question about the MCP35x pump. I have already asked this on other treads and I hope that this is the right place to ask.
> 
> I am thinking about building a water loop that will look like this.
> 
> *Reservoir* (Koolance single bay) > *Pump* (Swiftech MCP35x with Koolance top) > *Radiator* (black ice dual 80mm ) > *CPU block* (koolance) >*quick disconnect* (Koolance) > *Radiator* (Phobya QUAD 480) > *Reservoir* ( EK-RES X3 150 ) >*quick disconnect* (Koolance) > *two GPU blocks* XSPC GTX670 >
> 
> My question is, will the one little Swiftech MCP35x pump be able to handle all of this without having to much stress on the pump?


Dude, already answered HERE and HERE. No need to post in multiple threads. You'll get an answer with a little patience.


----------



## Adrian-E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Dude, already answered HERE and HERE. No need to post in multiple threads. You'll get an answer with a little patience.


Hi, sorry about that, i see you answered my question on all 3 posts


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> Hi, sorry about that, i see you answered my question on all 3 posts


Sorry if that came across as demeaning at all. Not my intention in the slightest. I've been corrected for posting the same question across multiple threads too


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> Hello everybody, I have question about the MCP35x pump. I have already asked this on other treads and I hope that this is the right place to ask.
> 
> I am thinking about building a water loop that will look like this.
> 
> *Reservoir* (Koolance single bay) > *Pump* (Swiftech MCP35x with Koolance top) > *Radiator* (black ice dual 80mm ) > *CPU block* (koolance) >*quick disconnect* (Koolance) > *Radiator* (Phobya QUAD 480) > *Reservoir* ( EK-RES X3 150 ) >*quick disconnect* (Koolance) > *two GPU blocks* XSPC GTX670 >
> 
> My question is, will the one little Swiftech MCP35x pump be able to handle all of this without having to much stress on the pump?


I can confirm that the MCP35X can handle that. This is a very powerful pump so don't let the small form factor fool you.


----------



## wermad

35x running: 480> 4x gpu> 120 > CPU > 240 > 480 > 480 > 480 > 240 > 480 > Res

Currently planning to add two ram blocks and a couple of blocks for the MB









Luv em 35x


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can confirm that the MCP35X can handle that. This is a very powerful pump so don't let the small form factor fool you.


awwww yeahhhh. They are good stuff. The only reason why I had to run my mcp35x2 @ 30%(x2) is due to the Maximus V formula bios.

Btw swiftech man, I have read allot of complaints on the swiftech forums about the maelstrom face plate when being used with the 900D... I can safely tell you that it's the 900D & not the bay res. Most bay devices simply do not fit. For some reason corsair decided that it would be OK to pump out a front panel that's 2 mm too small.


----------



## Adrian-E

Wow that's very encouraging having Swiftech Rep answer my question









Thank you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 35x running: 480> 4x gpu> 120 > CPU > 240 > 480 > 480 > 480 > 240 > 480 > Res
> 
> Currently planning to add two ram blocks and a couple of blocks for the MB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luv em 35x


1 12v D5 running 3 GPU,2 CPU,2 Mobo and 3 480s....and doing it silently.








A whole 2c temp gain rather than the 2 24v D5's that are in rig,one is switched off and the other is at 12v.

Pressure,like static pressure in fans,is only part of the story.....and an overrated part at that

Reliability and silence are my 2 shopping criteria for pumps now.


----------



## rickyman0319

what is the difference between QDC and VL3N or VL3?

do I need to buy this :

Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Female Compression for 13mm x 19mm (1/2in x 3/4in) - Black (QD3-FS13X19-BK)

Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Male Compression for 13mm x 19mm (1/2in x 3/4in) - Black (QD3-M13X19-BK)

in order to work?


----------



## VSG

The QD2/3/4 are push to connect or disconnect whereas the others are twist to connect or disconnect. I would recommend the QDs.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The QD2/3/4 are push to connect or disconnect whereas the others are twist to connect or disconnect. I would recommend the QDs.


is that the fitting that I need I just post it?


----------



## stickg1

Speaking of pumps, I'm shopping for one right now. 1 CPU, 1 GPU, 2 rads. I'd like a pump/res combo (free standing not a bay res). Budget is an issue though, about $130. Anything in that range or do I need to get more money?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is that the fitting that I need I just post it?


Well yes, but you can also buy them as male and female threaded versions and not just compressions.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well yes, but you can also buy them as male and female threaded versions and not just compressions.


what is the difference? which one is better? can you please show me on PPC.com or Frozencpu.com where it is?


----------



## kpoeticg

Compressions and barbs are meant to have tubing connected to them. Other adapters have G1/4 Male & Female threads on them meant to have fittings screwed into them


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Compressions and barbs are meant to have tubing connected to them. Other adapters have G1/4 Male & Female threads on them meant to have fittings screwed into them


Which ends up costing a bit more to piece together, because you will need to buy 4 separate compression fittings.


----------



## kpoeticg

Agreed.
I didn't go back to the previous page and read the rest of the convo, so not sure if what i said is helpful or not


----------



## VSG

Well it depends on what you are doing- if you are looking for QDCs on CPUs or GPUs then you would like to have male threaded versions of a QDC. Similarly, Koolance doesn't have the latest series in angled compressions for most tubing sizes so it makes sense to use female threaded fittings and screw in your own angled compressions.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Absolutely beautiful. This picture defines the reason I love modding.


Thanks. It is a lot of work to getting the stock drive cage to fit but it definitely worth it.


----------



## rickyman0319

you guys are talking about this:

cpu block -> 90degree compression -> qdc --> tube

which qdc3 are you talking about?

can you show me which one are youtalking about?


----------



## VSG

If that is your plan, you will save some money by going CPU-male threaded QDC (either male or female version) - female threaded QDC (female or male version respectively) - right angled compression fitting - tube


----------



## rickyman0319

can you please show me which one it is?


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys just wondering whats your opinion on these fans,thinking of getting two of them for my front case intake....
> 
> Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PK-3 140mm
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_598&products_id=23073
> 
> Also figured out why my temps had seem higher than usual (mid 50's) ,went back to stock bios and now my temps are back to high 30's to mid 40's depending on ambient and game....


Bad ass fans! I have two mounted to the front of my 750D intaking cool air into my 280mm rad.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can you please show me which one it is?


Check out the entire range here: http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=60_142_144

Then just search for the part numbers on your preferred retailer. Note that I linked the QD3 range and there are also the narrower QD2s and the thicker QD4s.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright I finally placed my order!


----------



## Simplynicko

do we know if EVGA/Swiftech will produce anymore classified hydro copper waterblocks?
also, can i mix the chrome-plated copper with all-copper build?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> do we know if EVGA/Swiftech will produce anymore classified hydro copper waterblocks?
> also, can i mix the chrome-plated copper with all-copper build?


At this point I'm not aware of whether we are or not. PM me about this so I can look into it further for you.


----------



## stickg1

Okay I made a couple purchases this weekend and today, so far I have:

Koolance CPU-360 Rev 1.2 Block
Swiftech 240mm MCR220-XP Rad
Watercool 120mm HTF2 (24011) Rad

I think I might pick up another 240mm rad in the end. I'm leaning towards Koolance's fullcover 290X block for my GPU. I still need to find a pump and res though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> do we know if EVGA/Swiftech will produce anymore classified hydro copper waterblocks?
> also, can i mix the chrome-plated copper with all-copper build?


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/


titan blocks dont fit classifieds


----------



## lowfat

A few better pics of the rad mounted in the FT02BW.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-3-2.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-4-2.jpg.html


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A few better pics of the rad mounted in the FT02BW.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-3-2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-4-2.jpg.html


That looks very nice. The rad actually looks like its part of the case.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> titan blocks dont fit classifieds


I realize that. guess I just need to state my point... The komodo blocks are normally ranked @ the middle of the pack @ best, though the most recent 780 classified block was a step in the right direction with active VRM cooling.

*edit:* Now that I think about it, i'm comparing apples & orange. I think it was the AMD swiftech block that didn't cool the VRM's. Sooo, derp.


----------



## pc-illiterate

yeah, some people want that evga logo on their block








i personally would buy a better looking and better performing block...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yeah, some people want that evga logo on their block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i personally would buy a better looking and better performing block...


I was trying to find pictures of the 680 classi block to try and see if what i'm remembering was the 7970 block, or the 680 classi block, but it's like all images of the 680 classi block have been wiped off the face of the earth. Swiftech needs an EOL section like EK has.


----------



## stickg1

IS the XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump terrible or would it suffice for a one CPU, one GPU, two rad loop?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I was trying to find pictures of the 680 classi block to try and see if what i'm remembering was the 7970 block, or the 680 classi block, but it's like all images of the 680 classi block have been wiped off the face of the earth. Swiftech needs an EOL section like EK has.


You shouldn't be looking at the Swiftech website. Up until the GTX780 all the Nvidia Swiftech blocks were only sold by EVGA.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You shouldn't be looking at the Swiftech website. Up until the GTX780 all the Nvidia Swiftech blocks were only sold by EVGA.


mwaahahha, thank you... OK

This is what i'm talking about.
780 classi block


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






This VRM plate makes me think it doesn't receive any active flow.

comparison. 780 block


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

30x Enzotech 1/2x3/4 compression fittings and 20' of Primochill LRT.


----------



## skupples

So, I have an aesthetics opinion question for y'all. Big fat black tube running across the front of my motherboard to the bay res, or 4 fans sticking out of the top of the 900D? Fans would be exhausting out, so the dust filter would be mostly useless anyways.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, I have an aesthetics opinion question for y'all. Big fat black tube running across the front of my motherboard to the bay res, or 4 fans sticking out of the top of the 900D? Fans would be exhausting out, so the dust filter would be mostly useless anyways.


can you take pics of how the tube would look? if you can do it right, it might not be awful looking. I personally have never liked external fans/rads, and once you chop that part up you cant really change your mind on it.


----------



## VSG

Can't you run the tube behind the motherboard tray?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Can we pre-order the kits now? If so where is the link to order it.
> 
> Thanks


No preorder. If one comes up, I'll post it here.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Can't you run the tube behind the motherboard tray?


nope, that's the issue. If the heat pipe wasn't there, it may be possible, but it takes up the 2-3 MM I need to run the tube up to the rear port hole.

sec Sz.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, I have an aesthetics opinion question for y'all. Big fat black tube running across the front of my motherboard to the bay res, or 4 fans sticking out of the top of the 900D? Fans would be exhausting out, so the dust filter would be mostly useless anyways.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can you take pics of how the tube would look? if you can do it right, it might not be awful looking. I personally have never liked external fans/rads, and once you chop that part up you cant really change your mind on it.


I'm not a big fan of stuff on the outside of the case. Maybe you could loop the tubing up higher in the case so its not as noticeable.


----------



## skupples




----------



## szeged

that doesnt look too bad, and it beats chopping the top out of the 900D imo.


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


What if you reroute and go GPU -> Rad -> CPU -> Res. It would look better than the long run.


----------



## VSG

What is your loop order over there?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What is your loop order over there?


res/pump/front rad/bottom rad/gpu/cpu/top rad/res.

res/pump/front rad/bottom rad can't really change due to the mid panel. The other stuff can easily change. May try what Skuli suggested.


----------



## stickg1

Anyone have an experience with the XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> res/pump/front rad/bottom rad/gpu/cpu/top rad/res.
> 
> res/pump/front rad/bottom rad can't really change due to the mid panel. The other stuff can easily change. May try what Skuli suggested.


Ya, do GPU-Rad-CPU-Res. Even better, include a RAM block and do CPU-RAM-Res


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, do GPU-Rad-CPU-Res. Even better, include a RAM block and do CPU-RAM-Res


inc .5gpm flow rate.

I'll likely break off the front 360 to cool vrm/ram when that block comes out.


----------



## Belial

Quick question: Are O-Rings visible?

Like I want to get a bitspower matte black barb, but it comes with this hideous radioactive green o-ring. I'm trying to have 'black' connections here, is there going to be just this big green circle at the fitting, or will it be entirely covered up once it's squeezed onto what it needs to be squeezed on to?

Or do I need to buy some o-rings?

This is my shopping list at the moment. Going to use just cable ties around the barbs that aren't visible (ie some will be behind panels and stuff).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quick question: Are O-Rings visible?
> 
> Like I want to get a bitspower matte black barb, but it comes with this hideous radioactive green o-ring. I'm trying to have 'black' connections here, is there going to be just this big green circle at the fitting, or will it be entirely covered up once it's squeezed onto what it needs to be squeezed on to?
> 
> Or do I need to buy some o-rings?


ever so slightly. Like .25mm. You can order black O-rings if that's too much.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Bad ass fans! I have two mounted to the front of my 750D intaking cool air into my 280mm rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was on the verge of ordering 2 of these fans today then i remember i had 2x140 gelid wings in the misses build so i just took them out and replaced with my cases stock fans....


----------



## kpoeticg

I swear by Akasa Vipers for 140's. IT Diva says the same about Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex 140's (And unfortunately i trust her opinion more than mine







)
Everybody else seems to swear by the NB PK-3's.
Make sure to share your experience with the Gelid Wings as rad fans. There's not alot of options so it's always good to have comparisons


----------



## pc-illiterate

if tator tot says gelid wings are good, they are good.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quick question: Are O-Rings visible?
> 
> Like I want to get a bitspower matte black barb, but it comes with this hideous radioactive green o-ring. I'm trying to have 'black' connections here, is there going to be just this big green circle at the fitting, or will it be entirely covered up once it's squeezed onto what it needs to be squeezed on to?
> 
> Or do I need to buy some o-rings?
> 
> This is my shopping list at the moment. Going to use just cable ties around the barbs that aren't visible (ie some will be behind panels and stuff).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They're pretty much never visible, except maybe when you're screwing the fitting into a plexi block.

That being said, extra o-rings are a wonderful thing to have laying around. It wouldn't hurt to either grab a 50-Pack or 10-Pack of the BP O-Rings from HERE

The 50-Pack's only like 4 bux....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> that doesnt look too bad, and it beats chopping the top out of the 900D imo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


Looks good, you can even run a straight piece of black acrylic tubing. If this was my build, id leave it the way it is.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> if tator tot says gelid wings are good, they are good.


Tator-Tot definitely knows his s**t when it comes to fans.
BUT
His fan thread is most definitely geared more towards quiet fans than high performance rad fans. I'd definitely trust his knowledge if i was going for a completely quiet build and had no need to ever go over 1000RPM, but i prefer threads like this for higher performance fans.

Edit: I hope that didn't come off as disrespectful towards him. I definitely respect and appreciate his contribution to the community


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I swear by Akasa Vipers for 140's. IT Diva says the same about Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex 140's (And unfortunately i trust her opinion more than mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Everybody else seems to swear by the NB PK-3's.
> Make sure to share your experience with the Gelid Wings as rad fans. There's not alot of options so it's always good to have comparisons


I'm just using my 140 wings as case fans,i have used the 120's on rads b4 and loved them especially when on a fan controller,as for the 140's they only have 1.45 stat pressure not sure its enough for rads but then again some people swear by the corsair sp quiet editions which has even less stat pressure so i guess the 140 wings cnt be that bad on rads....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> IS the XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump terrible or would it suffice for a one CPU, one GPU, two rad loop?


The XSPC 750 will do this setup just. As long as the blocks are of a new build then that helps. Newer blocks tend to be less restrictive. The pump is rather quiet, but not absolute silent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Speaking of pumps, I'm shopping for one right now. 1 CPU, 1 GPU, 2 rads. I'd like a pump/res combo (free standing not a bay res). Budget is an issue though, about $130. Anything in that range or do I need to get more money?


I got recommended the D5, I managed to find a vario one on the Bay, rather cheap, it is silent, and even turned to 100% it quieter then the XSPC 750.

Hope this helps ya.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I sure hope the GeLids do alright on a rad. I'll find out one way or another. I'll be using them in push-pull on a 480 XT45 and a 360 monsta in my next build. Have almost everything I need, but it's put on hold until after the holidays.


----------



## rickyman0319

that is a lot of fans.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have an old version of XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump.

I got EK supreme HF, gpu block and 2 rad. will this pump be good enough or not?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> that is a lot of fans.


Yeah, it's a few. If they don't give me the performance I want I'll replace them with AP-15s (I have 8 of those right now sop would need a few more), but I do really want to stick with the UV Blue color scheme to match my rigid acrylic tubing if I can get away with it. I'll be dialing them down as quiet as I can get away with with a Lamptron CW611.


----------



## Ragsters

Im leak testing right now. Is there any advise you guys could give me? Should I continue to fill reservoir every time the water goes down a bit? Should I be turning the pump on and off? Leak test first then worry about bleeding right? Why the heck is my south bridge block so darn loud?


----------



## wermad




----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Im leak testing right now. Is there any advise you guys could give me? Should I continue to fill reservoir every time the water goes down a bit? Should I be turning the pump on and off? Leak test first then worry about bleeding right? Why the heck is my south bridge block so darn loud?


Yes*. Yes*. Yes. No idea.









* until the level in the res stops dropping and flow is continuous


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have an old version of XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump.
> 
> I got EK supreme HF, gpu block and 2 rad. will this pump be good enough or not?


The top recommended pumps are D5's, DDC's, and their variants (MCP35_, MCP35x, MCP655, Koolance PMP-400/450/450S, etc)


----------



## wermad

One more











Crappy photo-taking skills hard at work


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have an old version of XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump.
> 
> I got EK supreme HF, gpu block and 2 rad. will this pump be good enough or not?
> 
> 
> 
> The top recommended pumps are D5's, DDC's, and their variants (MCP35_, MCP35x, MCP655, Koolance PMP-400/450/450S, etc)
Click to expand...

This.

I would avoid the XSPC 750 pump at all costs.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1447946/help-my-water-cooling-just-blew-up/0_20
http://www.overclock.net/t/1045520/help-my-rasa-750-exploded/0_20


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The top recommended pumps are D5's, DDC's, and their variants (MCP35_, MCP35x, MCP655, Koolance PMP-400/450/450S, etc)


so what is the pump inside the x2 750 ? lol


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Im leak testing right now. Is there any advise you guys could give me? Should I continue to fill reservoir every time the water goes down a bit? Should I be turning the pump on and off? Leak test first then worry about bleeding right? Why the heck is my south bridge block so darn loud?


You should fill the res with water till it goes down, never let the pump suck air due to no water in the res.....very important.
Bleeding...i let the case tilt from left to right and from back to forward but honestly it can take up one hour to hours to bleed the system...
I only turn on and off the pump while i fill the system (turn off pump fill res then turn on pump water almost gone? turn off pump repeat the proces till the water stays) till there is no more water to fill, to make sure i tilt the case to help remove air pockets this generally means that the water level in res lowers a bit i then fill the water level to a level i am happy with.

Imo leak test first is priority and noise could be air pockets trapped in your loop/blocks...actually its leak test and bleeding at the same time the first couple of hours i personally check the my rig for potential leaks. Hope this helps


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> so what is the pump inside the x2 750 ? lol


Don't waste your money on one. If money is tight, consider a used pump and res to save money. An alternative pump is the Jingway 1200 pump (aka EK DCP 4.0, OCZ Hydro, Danger Den CPX-1).


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> so what is the pump inside the x2 750 ? lol


It is non of the mentioned ones.


----------



## rickyman0319

system one:

i4770k w/ ek supreme hf
x2 750
mcr220 w/ viper

I want to cool better and quiet. this is what I have so far.

what do I need to change?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have an old version of XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump.
> 
> I got EK supreme HF, gpu block and 2 rad. will this pump be good enough or not?


since you have it, use it until you can save enough money to buy a new pump and res. i wouldnt make a career of waiting to buy the new pump.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have an old version of XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump.
> 
> I got EK supreme HF, gpu block and 2 rad. will this pump be good enough or not?


I'm sure it will be fine.

OK, re-tubing complete. Much better. Thank you for the suggestions.



note that it's not actually hooked up to the res yet, so it will be a bit more rigid when it is. It's just a tube hanging out of the front of the case for now. I have to figure out how to mount the damned maelstrom, because putting proper mounting holes on 900D is yet another thins corsair derped @. Last thing I need to do is figure out a way to build a shroud for the AQ6XT in that massive open space since it doesn't fit in the bays thanks to corsairs ingenious design.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm sure it will be fine.
> 
> OK, re-tubing complete. Much better. Thank you for the suggestions.
> 
> 
> 
> note that it's not actually hooked up to the res yet, so it will be a bit more rigid when it is. It's just a tube hanging out of the front of the case for now. I have to figure out how to mount the damned maelstrom, because putting proper mounting holes on 900D is yet another thins corsair derped @. Last thing I need to do is figure out a way to build a shroud for the AQ6XT in that massive open space since it doesn't fit in the bays thanks to corsairs ingenious design.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


That looks great! Those copper blocks are growing on me!


----------



## skupples

Think i'm going to spend the cash to get black PCI-E cables, as i'm guessing the ones from my AX850 won't get along with my EVGA psu too well.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Think i'm going to spend the cash to get black PCI-E cables, as i'm guessing the ones from my AX850 won't get along with my EVGA psu too well.


NO custom sleeving?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> NO custom sleeving?


That's the only problem with these EVGA PSU's, those extra capacitor thingies exist for a reason! Even if I did sleeve them I would be stuck with red plugs.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's the only problem with these EVGA PSU's, those extra capacitor thingies exist for a reason! Even if I did sleeve them I would be stuck with red plugs.


I cut mine right off.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I cut mine right off.












The red cap would mix well with the ram, if I decide to not paint it this weekend.


----------



## Ragsters

Should I leak test overnight?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Should I leak test overnight?


I personally would only leak test while you are there observing the process. You will find out real quick if it has a leak or not. In my experience if you did derp somewhere you are going to figure it out within 30 minutes.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I personally would only leak test while you are there observing the process. You will find out real quick if it has a leak or not. In my experience if you did derp somewhere you are going to figure it out within 30 minutes.


This ^^


----------



## Akula




----------



## skupples

Very nice!


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*






Why do you honestly make me want to just blow all my cash on water cooling parts? I'm already broke


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I personally would only leak test while you are there observing the process. You will find out real quick if it has a leak or not. In my experience if you did derp somewhere you are going to figure it out within 30 minutes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> This ^^


When should I add biocide? I am going to use the Mayhems Extreme.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> When should I add biocide? I am going to use the Mayhems Extreme.


If you have enough, mix up a whole gallon, & use it the whole time. It's unlikely you will be flushing the system unless you do happen to stumble across a leak, but I have faith that won't happen.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> If you have enough, mix up a whole gallon, & use it the whole time. It's unlikely you will be flushing the system unless you do happen to stumble across a leak, but I have faith that won't happen.


I already filled my loop without it. I was hoping to just add a drop or two into the res.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I already filled my loop without it. I was hoping to just add a drop or two into the res.


That works too... Did you keep track of how much fluid went into the loop? If you are using nickel blocks you should REALLY get some anti-corrosive.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That works too... Did you keep track of how much fluid went into the loop? If you are using nickel blocks you should REALLY get some anti-corrosive.


My best guess is that I used around 1.5 liters.

Edit: I just added 1 drop in the res and let it run for like 10 min. I hope that's enough.


----------



## ginger_nuts

1.5litres that a big loop.

Both of mine put togeather might just be 1 litre.

:-D


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 1.5litres that a big loop.
> 
> Both of mine put togeather might just be 1 litre.
> 
> :-D


Lol, my STH10 build took 4.5 liters total for the loop, but it has 4-480's and 3-360's and a BP250 res top in it. The SM8 I built for my store took 1.5 liters


----------



## kanaks

Added a second GPU, I am impressed by the fact that temps are not affected at all!


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The red cap would mix well with the ram, if I decide to not paint it this weekend.


Chopped mine off as well and its been running great. IT Diva had some insight on the caps and their purpose.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Chopped mine off as well and its been running great. IT Diva had some insight on the caps and their purpose.


I'm not sure if they are the same on an EVGA PSU as a Corsair AX1200, but the ferrite chokes (I think that's what they're called) on the AX1200 PCI-e cables are there to limit EMI (electromagnetic interference) I believe, but they must not be too necessary because the sleeved cable sets that you can buy from Corsair come without them, and no one I know of who has used their sleeved sets or sleeved the PCI-e cables themselves without the chokes have reported having any issues.


----------



## szeged

i cut all my caps off also, no problems and now they look 109489392x better, this is the 4th 1300g2 ive sleeved and the caps come off every time.


----------



## King4x4

Have some Pre-WC pr0n!






Was testing the board and cpu compatibility before plugging them into the TH10.

This video is in arabic but I was testing the swiftech PWM hum in series (one hub connected to the other) with all 15 fans connected to the two hubs.




Next to test to connect 6 hubs to one major one to test PWM compatibility. If it doesn't work I will have to split the hubs on the mobo but at least it would be awesome to have 61 fans controlled from the CPU header


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Have some Pre-WC pr0n!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was testing the board and cpu compatibility before plugging them into the TH10.
> 
> This video is in arabic but I was testing the swiftech PWM hum in series (one hub connected to the other) with all 15 fans connected to the two hubs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to test to connect 6 hubs to one major one to test PWM compatibility. If it doesn't work I will have to split the hubs on the mobo but at least it would be awesome to have 61 fans controlled from the CPU header


Mother of god, got enough TIM there?










Looks good


----------



## King4x4

TIM is cheap!









CLU is not









This is just the pre-commissioning work... Commissioning I will switch to CLU on all cpus/gpus







:


----------



## Elloquin

Ummm....You didn't really use that much thermal paste did you?







Also you ran the video card with a water block attacked but no water running through the block?!?


----------



## King4x4

Bootup to the bios to make sure everything works... If you aren't stressing it the natural convection of the block will soak up the heat until you get the bios and make sure everything is working.


----------



## stickg1

What's the general consensus on Koolance parts? I check this thread a lot, I see a ton of EK, BP, Aqua, Swiftech, but I hardly see any Koolance. Are their parts poor in quality? Or is it just the aesthetics are less desirable to some eyes?

I'm wondering because I'm piecing together my loop with mostly 2nd hand parts. I already purchased a Koolance CPU-360 Rev 1.2 block and Koolance VID-AR290X block. The price was right, they looked in great like new condition. I didn't make a mistake did I? I see them doing well in reviews, but one thing reviews don't test is longevity.

Also I might try to go for a Koolance res or pump, but want to know if I'm making myself prone to future headaches.


----------



## kpoeticg

Koolance makes top quality components for sure.

I think the CPU-380 is the top performing LGA2011 block. At least it was, dunno if it still is. They make the best QDC's also, hands down

I'm personally putting together an all copper build, so since they plate most of their parts with Nickel, i haven't bought any of their components.

Their rads have an extremely high fin density though, so it doesn't seem like too many people use them. Also DazMode did a video showing that Koolance Rads only work with Koolance Fittings, which is kinda strange....


----------



## stickg1

That does seem strange. I was looking at the blocks I got before I bought them, they look nice. Metal on metal on metal, they look pretty butch. I'm actually all set for radiators though, I have some swiftechs and a watercool.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Have some Pre-WC pr0n!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was testing the board and cpu compatibility before plugging them into the TH10.
> 
> This video is in arabic but I was testing the swiftech PWM hum in series (one hub connected to the other) with all 15 fans connected to the two hubs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next to test to connect 6 hubs to one major one to test PWM compatibility. If it doesn't work I will have to split the hubs on the mobo but at least it would be awesome to have 61 fans controlled from the CPU header*


Offering a suggestion to an _expert_ who uses that much TIM is probably foolish on my part, but anyway . . . . .

Before you try something that has a likelihood of trashing the PWM generation function of the mobo by trying to make it source a current level it was never imagined to do . . .

Why not try an intelligent solution and have an electronics buddy make you a buffer circuit with CD4050 hex buffer IC's.

Feed the mobo PWM pin to the first buffer of each of 2 4050's, and then have the output of that buffer feed the 5 remaining inputs on that IC.

You're now up to 10 buffered outputs from which you could feed all 6 buffers of 10 more 4050's for a total of 60 buffered outputs for the fan's PWM signal.

Even if you only build half with 30 outputs for 2 fans per output, you'd still be OK.

You could even try running a splitter off of each of the first 10 buffered outputs.

It well could work, and it would remove the chance of damaging the mobo.

The CD4050 IC's are dirt cheap, about 40 cents each, and some Radio shack perfboard is maybe a few dollars.

Darlene


----------



## HeyBear

Sorry for the potential spam, I asked this in the thread I created yesterday but there's a few more people that frequent here...

I'm hoping to get one of the Aqua Computer Cuplex Kryos HF waterblocks for my upcoming build but I wasn't sure if the fittings I wanted would fit without any extras.



According to the specs here, the spacing between the two ports is 23.75mm, I think that means the fitting diameter has to be slightly less than that to fit one on each port assuming they measured from the same point on both.

The EK fittings suitable for acrylic should work fine I believe, with a diameter of 21.7mm. I'm not so sure about the Primochill G1/4" Thread Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings though, all the information I've found regarding diameter refers to the tube diameter, not the fitting.

Any help or experience you can impart would be greatly appreciated


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Sorry for the potential spam, I asked this in the thread I created yesterday but there's a few more people that frequent here...
> 
> I'm hoping to get one of the Aqua Computer Cuplex Kryos HF waterblocks for my upcoming build but I wasn't sure if the fittings I wanted would fit without any extras.
> 
> 
> 
> According to the specs here, the spacing between the two ports is 23.75mm, I think that means the fitting diameter has to be slightly less than that to fit one on each port assuming they measured from the same point on both.
> 
> The EK fittings suitable for acrylic should work fine I believe, with a diameter of 21.7mm. I'm not so sure about the Primochill G1/4" Thread Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings though, all the information I've found regarding diameter refers to the tube diameter, not the fitting.
> 
> Any help or experience you can impart would be greatly appreciated


The Primochill rigid tubing fittings mic at 24mm . . . .

looks like they'll not quite fit side by side.

Use an extender under one of them to put it higher than the other and you'll be good.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> [...] I'm not so sure about the Primochill G1/4" Thread Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings though, all the information I've found regarding diameter refers to the tube diameter, not the fitting.
> 
> Any help or experience you can impart would be greatly appreciated


Well, I can only say that Primochill 'Revolver' rigid compression fittings are 24mm diameter.



FWIW, looking at the image in this post from IT Diva the Revolver and Ghost fittings look to be the same size to me.

EDIT: Darlene beat me to the punch, and punched harder and more accurate. lol


----------



## kpoeticg

If it's too tight, you can always use an extender on one or both of the ports.

Here's some EK extenders. And Here's a bunch of BP and others.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> [...] I'm not so sure about the Primochill G1/4" Thread Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings though, all the information I've found regarding diameter refers to the tube diameter, not the fitting.
> 
> Any help or experience you can impart would be greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I can only say that Primochill 'Revolver' rigid compression fittings are 24mm diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, looking at the image in this post from IT Diva *the Revolver and Ghost fittings look to be the same size to me.
> *
> 
> EDIT: Darlene beat me to the punch, and punched harder and more accurate. lol
Click to expand...

They are both 24mm, the compression rings are interchangeable.


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Primochill rigid tubing fittings mic at 24mm . . . .
> 
> looks like they'll not quite fit side by side.
> 
> Use an extender under one of them to put it higher than the other and you'll be good.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, I can only say that Primochill 'Revolver' rigid compression fittings are 24mm diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, looking at the image in this post from IT Diva the Revolver and Ghost fittings look to be the same size to me.
> 
> EDIT: Darlene beat me to the punch, and punched harder and more accurate. lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If it's too tight, you can always use an extender on one or both of the ports.
> 
> Here's some EK extenders. And Here's a bunch of BP and others.






Thanks for the swift help everyone! I thought the Primochill fittings might be slightly too large, just couldn't find the confirmation. I quite like the look of the revolver fittings, I don't think they're available all the way across the pond though unfortunately, c'est la vie...

Just need to make a decision on what size tubing to go with now, a harrowing experience for any self confessed fence sitter...


----------



## Fonne

Wuuuhuuu, look what just came to me









4x 120mm Rads
2x 240mm Rads
1x 360mm Rads
2x Laing DDC pump with top
2x Inline temp sensor with display
2x AquaComputer memory block
Fittings, waterblock, res etc .....













And the price was the same at 2 new Laing DDC = Cheap









Dont going to use it all + there is some old stuff also, but the price was just WAY to good to pass it


----------



## morencyam

Sounds like you got a great deal








I recently found two MCP35x for half the price as one brand new. Gladly picked that up without hesitation.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Sorry for the potential spam, I asked this in the thread I created yesterday but there's a few more people that frequent here...
> 
> I'm hoping to get one of the Aqua Computer Cuplex Kryos HF waterblocks for my upcoming build but I wasn't sure if the fittings I wanted would fit without any extras.
> 
> 
> 
> According to the specs here, the spacing between the two ports is 23.75mm, I think that means the fitting diameter has to be slightly less than that to fit one on each port assuming they measured from the same point on both.
> 
> The EK fittings suitable for acrylic should work fine I believe, with a diameter of 21.7mm. I'm not so sure about the Primochill G1/4" Thread Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings though, all the information I've found regarding diameter refers to the tube diameter, not the fitting.
> 
> Any help or experience you can impart would be greatly appreciated


They will fit. Just barely.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Sounds like you got a great deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently found two MCP35x for half the price as one brand new. Gladly picked that up without hesitation.


Thanks







- Really think its a pretty nice deal when only have paid what the 2x DDC cost from new ....



The 2x quad vale (Dont know what they are called), can any help me find what they are called, or where to buy them from new ? ... Would like to see what they cost, dont think they are cheap ...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> No preorder. If one comes up, I'll post it here.










I preorder one of those in a heart beat. Actually been checking the site ever day now.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

You guys ever notice how thermal paste is one of the best options for cleaning your blocks?

Here, I first scrub the block with Isopropyl alcohol and get very little dirt. I then decide to take some cheap thermal paste that came with my Alphacool 7950 block and scrub the Swiftech CPU block with it. The paste is a light grey, almost white, color when I first apply it. I scrub it in almost like waxing a car and as you can see there is a ton of black crap left behind on the paper towel. After that I use a little Isopropyl alcohol to get the remaining TIM off the block.

Just a little tip that I thought I would share with you guys since it worked so well!


----------



## lowfat

I never use ISO on my blocks. I always just polish off the TIM. TIM is similar to a polishing compound. When you polish it off you are polishing out some of the micro scratches.


----------



## skupples

Best TIM cleaner known to man. For those who think it's just re-bottled 99 % alcohol, not even close. This thing could pull ink out of a 30 year old tattoo.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

... I just use contact cleaner to clean the TIM off







works pretty well


----------



## Kimir

To remove TIM at work, I use decolnet. This thing work wonderfully on it, even if it's not it primary purpose lol.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Wow I just spent some time polishing my Alphacool blocks which had these deep black stains on the copper and it came like that from the factory (Alphacool gave me a free replacement block and let me keep the old one which you see in the picture) and I haven't found anything to get the stains out... until now. Check out the before and after pictures on the VRM's. Haven't done the rest of the block yet.

Before

After!!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> To remove TIM at work, I use decolnet. This thing work wonderfully on it, even if it's not it primary purpose lol.


I can´t even read anything of your post...just keep staring at your avatar









I use arctic clean. Works like a charm.


----------



## Im Batman

I'm just in the middle of re-doing my loop, earlier on after putting the water in I was unhappy with the flow as I mucked up and left too much slack in one of the lines so I just cut it, blew all the water out, fixed it up and kept going. It just occurred to me that blowing into it might cause something to grow in the loop later on.

Is this something I might need to go back and fix somehow? Currently leak testing and I'm just using distilled water and liquid utopia as my anti corrosive/biocide.

Thanks for any advice.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> I'm just in the middle of re-doing my loop, earlier on after putting the water in I was unhappy with the flow as I mucked up and left too much slack in one of the lines so I just cut it, blew all the water out, fixed it up and kept going. It just occurred to me that blowing into it might cause something to grow in the loop later on.
> 
> Is this something I might need to go back and fix somehow? Currently leak testing and I'm just using distilled water and liquid utopia as my anti corrosive/biocide.
> 
> Thanks for any advice.


I've thought about that same question recently and would also love to know the answer to this. Good question!


----------



## morencyam

That'ts typically what I do to drain as well. Never had any issues.


----------



## pc-illiterate

and the biocide with kill any germs you spit into your loop. that is exactly what biocide does...


----------



## rickyman0319

do you guys trust the radiator review on martin sites or not? what sites do u trust on rad review?

I am looking to buy a 3x120 rad ( low - med rpm) only. there are lot of rad to choose from, I don't know which one is good?

can u guys help me?

ty


----------



## pc-illiterate

martin and bundymania are both trusted reviewers.
alphacool rads or the hardware labs sr-1


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Wow I just spent some time polishing my Alphacool blocks which had these deep black stains on the copper and it came like that from the factory (Alphacool gave me a free replacement block and let me keep the old one which you see in the picture) and I haven't found anything to get the stains out... until now. Check out the before and after pictures on the VRM's. Haven't done the rest of the block yet.


Uh oh. Once you start on a path to polishing it is very hard to quit.









Does look good though.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do you guys trust the radiator review on martin sites or not? what sites do u trust on rad review?
> 
> I am looking to buy a 3x120 rad ( low - med rpm) only. there are lot of rad to choose from, I don't know which one is good?
> 
> can u guys help me?
> 
> ty


Simple.

Alphacool. Get the thickest one that you can fit in your case with push/pull. Even the smaller Alphacool ST30 360mm rads work great with low-RPM fans.

And yes I trust Martins reviews.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Uh oh. Once you start on a path to polishing it is very hard to quit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does look good though.


I know I'm on a polishing rampage. This whole tube of paste is going to be gone once I'm done







Well worth it though.


----------



## Jetskyer

Guys, I'm lost.. Can't make a decision between the kryos HF and the Iceforce for my upcoming rig.

It would either be:


or:


It would be in this case:

With this motherboard and ram:


Possibly with red or blue dye, but could just as well go with plain distilled.

Which version do you guys think will look the best? And if it's the Iceforce, should I then look into plating the copper pipes to finish the look?


----------



## morencyam

As much as I love the look of the Iceforce, I think the Kryos would look better with copper tubes. But I like the look of copper more than nickle to begin with so I guess I'm a little biased


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I know I'm on a polishing rampage. This whole tube of paste is going to be gone once I'm done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well worth it though.


What polish are you using?

One last pic I swear. I am just rather happy w/ the outcome so far.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-10.jpg.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> [...] *One last pic I swear*. I am just rather happy w/ the outcome so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-10.jpg.html


Nooooooooooo! Pleeeease keep posting more pics as your build progresses.


----------



## skupples

turns out the only compromise with this new layout is having to use a one inch stem coming out of the CPU block out this is because of the two and a half inch tall trident RAM sticks

I wonder if they would roast with the red flare missing


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> turns out the only compromise with this new layout is having to use a one inch stem coming out of the CPU block out this is because of the two and a half inch tall trident RAM sticks
> 
> I wonder if they would roast with the red flare missing


just use a BP extender to get over em







with how close your rad is to the tridents they will be pulling some air over them.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> turns out the only compromise with this new layout is having to use a one inch stem coming out of the CPU block out this is because of the two and a half inch tall trident RAM sticks
> 
> I wonder if they would roast with the red flare missing


Instead of an extension could you use a 45 deg rotary to get the hose to arc over the ram? Or maybe a 30 deg?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Have some Pre-WC pr0n!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was testing the board and cpu compatibility before plugging them into the TH10.
> 
> This video is in arabic but I was testing the swiftech PWM hum in series (one hub connected to the other) with all 15 fans connected to the two hubs.
> 
> Next to test to connect 6 hubs to one major one to test PWM compatibility. If it doesn't work I will have to split the hubs on the mobo but at least it would be awesome to have 61 fans controlled from the CPU header


Why CLU? I thought that stuff would permanently bond to your core/ihs? I've seen a few pics of destroyed cpu's and gpu's with that stuff. I'm sticking w/ Ceramique for the gpu(s) since I have some left and I used a bit of the Gelid tim EK includes for the cpu.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why CLU? I thought that stuff would permanently bond to your core/ihs? I've seen a few pics of destroyed cpu's and gpu's with that stuff. I'm sticking w/ Ceramique for the gpu(s) since I have some left and I used a bit of the Gelid tim EK includes for the cpu.


What???? No way CLU doesn't destroy anything, but aluminum. I use it on EVERYTHING and have never had a problem.


----------



## skupples

probably just kinda daydreaming about it while I'm at work. I noticed the RAM didn't fit with the alpha cool 90 degrees this morning. Sense I'm using SBe I'll likely be under clocking the mem To ~ 1866. so it seems I have three options

cool labs pro is the one that caused issues. The worst thing I've seen clu donis slightly absorb into the ihs. Nothing the provided scotch bright pad can't fix


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What polish are you using?
> 
> One last pic I swear. I am just rather happy w/ the outcome so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-10.jpg.html


I'm just using regular ole thermal paste to polish the copper block and it is working miracles!! I'm amazed. I've tried everything to get these blotches off of the block. Now I've finally found a solution!


----------



## rickyman0319

how do I get the plastic smell off the bay resevior? what do I do?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What???? No way CLU doesn't destroy anything, but aluminum. I use it on EVERYTHING and have never had a problem.


Cool Laboratory Ultra? I've been warned and saw quite a few pics of destroyed cores using this. For my Haswell delid, i used Ice Diamond 7 to be on the safe side (still had to be very careful with this as well).


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'm just using regular ole thermal paste to polish the copper block and it is working miracles!! I'm amazed. I've tried everything to get these blotches off of the block. Now I've finally found a solution!


You should use regular metal polish. Mother's and Megiaur's make good stuff.


----------



## Belial

Anyone have feedback on the Phobya Balancer reservoirs? They appear to be the only anondized dark gray reservoirs I've seen (ie they match my Z87X-UD3H motherboard and gray paracording), and got a side outlet on the bottom. Going to be hooking up a 250mm to my H110 clc.

Quote:


> Cool Laboratory Ultra? I've been warned and saw quite a few pics of destroyed cores using this. For my Haswell delid, i used Ice Diamond 7 to be on the safe side (still had to be very careful with this as well).


!?!? I don't think this is true... can you post a pic or link?

CLU/Gallium will melt aluminum in seconds, but otherwise it's fine, ie nickel, copper, brass. It will tarnish copper and nickel a little bit, but you can actually scrub off the tarnish easily with the included scrubbing pad (or any scrubber). It can stain after a few months, but who cares. It's far better than anything else on the market, including Ice Diamond 7. You're talking like a 5-10C+ temp gain over the 2nd best paste, and it's far cheaper and more consistent than Indigo.

It definitely does not _destroy_ anything, that just sounds like someone being misinformed...

The Official Delid club is really the best place for CLU (and thermal paste in general) discussion, you have a ton of people in there who use CLU as well as test thermal pastes, and it's got a page comparing thermal paste performance based on user submissions. CLU on average is about 10-15C better then any other paste used there. I personally saw a 15C gain going from PK-3 to CLU, and PK-3 is considered one of the top3 pastes.

Bear in mind, while CLU has never destroyed any chips, Ice Diamond 7 actually has (oh the irony in saying you dont use CLU but use ID7 'to be safe'):
http://www.overclock.net/t/1411528/avoid-ic-diamond-thermal-paste/0_100

The CEO had challenged the community at large to test his paste out and submit results on a public page on the website, and then when people showed poor results as well as ruined components, he accused the community. Real piece of work for a very sub-par and overpriced paste.

Finally, ID7 actually will stain, just like CLU. Please be more informed when you want to trash a company's product, the people of CLU have worked pretty hard to make an excellent product and their customer service is amazing. They sent me a free tube when I had issue and said they must have had a bad batch - they didn't say I docted photos and made it up lol!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cool Laboratory Ultra? I've been warned and saw quite a few pics of destroyed cores using this. For my Haswell delid, i used Ice Diamond 7 to be on the safe side (still had to be very careful with this as well).


I replaced it on my 3770k die today. Had it on there for almost a year and with a little alcohol it wiped right off. I've also had it on all my blocks for months at a time with no damage at all. I don't know what crazy mistake those people made, but I haven't encountered any problems in the long time I've been using it and I know a bunch of people that can vouch for that statement 

Belial, the Phobya Balancer res is pretty nice, but I can't recommend it because the clips that come with it are cheap and break extremely easily.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I replaced it on my 3770k die today. Had it on there for almost a year and with a little alcohol it wiped right off. I've also had it on all my blocks for months at a time with no damage at all. I don't know what crazy mistake those people made, but I haven't encountered any problems in the long time I've been using it and I know a bunch of people that can vouch for that statement


After seeing the pics, I shunned away from it and used ID7 instead. I know not everyone had these issues but it was enough for me to keep away. Destroying my Tahitis and w/ prices skyrocketing for 79xx series, no thanks







. I'll stick w/ my old and trusty Ceramique for now. I'll be buying a tube of MX-4 or something else down the road. I have a few milligrams left of Ceramique. Temps are pretty good so I have no concerns. Just hoping no one destroys their gear using something as simple as thermal compound







.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> After seeing the pics, I shunned away from it and used ID7 instead. I know not everyone had these issues but it was enough for me to keep away. Destroying my Tahitis and w/ prices skyrocketing for 79xx series, no thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll stick w/ my old and trusty Ceramique for now. I'll be buying a tube of MX-4 or something else down the road. I have a few milligrams left of Ceramique. Temps are pretty good so I have no concerns. Just hoping no one destroys their gear using something as simple as thermal compound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


To each their own 

I'm 100% certain that there is more to those stories that isn't being told. CLU WILL NOT do that so don't be scared to use it because it won't destroy anything. It is chemically impossible. Well except for aluminum. It is conductive so you just have to be sure to not touch anything else with the brush when applying, but when applied without mistakes like that there is no overflow so it won't leak or anything like that.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Belial, the Phobya Balancer res is pretty nice, but I can't recommend it because the clips that come with it are cheap and break extremely easily.


What are clips?
Quote:


> After seeing the pics, I shunned away from it and used ID7 instead. I know not everyone had these issues but it was enough for me to keep away. Destroying my Tahitis and w/ prices skyrocketing for 79xx series, no thanks tongue.gif. I'll stick w/ my old and trusty Ceramique for now. I'll be buying a tube of MX-4 or something else down the road. I have a few milligrams left of Ceramique. Temps are pretty good so I have no concerns. Just hoping no one destroys their gear using something as simple as thermal compound thumb.gif.


MX-4 is pretty mediocre as well. Why would you spend $100s on premo water cooling and the very best components, and then use garbage, cheapo thermal paste lol...

You say temps are good, but I promise you a better paste would give you even better temps. There is not a single report of 'destroyed' gear with CLU and it sounds like you are just highly misinformed about thermal pastes. Things have come a long way since the days of DDR2, when MX-4 came out. Hegrease is the best ceramique by far, but PK-3, Masscool, Gelid, and even NH-T1 are muh better choices if you don't want to use CLU or CLP even.

The only possible 'destroying' is electrically conductive pastes, but I don't think anyone's even done that with CLU. With the way it is, it'd be impossible to use 'too much'.


----------



## morencyam

I think the liquid metal TIM hardening was more prominent with CLP. In all the reading I've done I've seen only a few cases where CLU hardens as well, but not to the point of damaging the die. Most of the bonding I've seen though was between the IHS and HSF and was fine between die and IHS.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Anyone have feedback on the Phobya Balancer reservoirs? They appear to be the only anondized dark gray reservoirs I've seen (ie they match my Z87X-UD3H motherboard and gray paracording), and got a side outlet on the bottom. Going to be hooking up a 250mm to my H110 clc.


i hope you realize that you need enough pressure from the res to the h110 block/pump to feed coolant to the pump so it doesnt burn up. i doubt any res with outlets as low as you plan to use will work. thats why so many use the swiftech microres mounted as high as they can in their case.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think the liquid metal TIM hardening was more prominent with CLP. In all the reading I've done I've seen only a few cases where CLU hardens as well, but not to the point of damaging the die. Most of the bonding I've seen though was between the IHS and HSF and was fine between die and IHS.


Well, this was just a few months ago. I asked in the Delid thread and that's when the warnings on CLU came up. SkyNet was very helpful w/ my delid and he also warned me about it and recommended Ice Diamond instead.

If ppl are not having issues, that's good. Again, just sending out a warning from what I was told and pics I saw. The pics shown did have both the die and the gpu cores destroyed after removing the ihs/hsf. I have no clue on what the chemical reaction is but the destruction is enough for me to stay away.

How much is the thermal advantage anyways? Also, noticed its old stuff too







(like my Ceramique







). The Gelid Extreme EK includes is pretty good too, may get some of that. My local Fry's still has some ShinEtzu and that was popular for some time.


----------



## lowfat

The different between TIMs is a fraction of a degree. Not sure why everyone is getting so upset here.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The different between TIMs is a fraction of a degree. Not sure why everyone is getting so upset here.


Only one person brought up thermals (







).

My understanding of the discussion are the stories of some thermals adhering to components and destroying them.

I still have some AS5 I use when i send a gpu into rma since its close in color to what the manufacturer adds







. So even the old and dated stuff is somewhat useful


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Only one person brought up thermals (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> My understanding of the discussion are the stories of some thermals adhering to components and destroying them.
> 
> I still have some AS5 I use when i send a gpu into rma since its close in color to what the manufacturer adds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Do you apply it with a shovel too? GPU manufacturers really go overboard with the amount of TIM they use


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Do you apply it with a shovel too? GPU manufacturers really go overboard with the amount of TIM they use


Lol, they just use an ice cream scoop







. I do go a tad heavy but not as excessive as they do.

I use a rice grain for the Lightnings and LGA1155/1150. For LGA2011, I did a bit more but that wasn't enough after a smear test, so I went w/ a pea size and that did a good smear


----------



## rickyman0319

is this w/c setup really messy?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Only one person brought up thermals (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> My understanding of the discussion are the stories of some thermals adhering to components and destroying them.
> 
> I still have some AS5 I use when i send a gpu into rma since its close in color to what the manufacturer adds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So even the old and dated stuff is somewhat useful


Hey! I started talking about TIM as a polish!!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, King went a bit overboard w/ it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I use a rice grain for the Lightnings and LGA1155/1150. For LGA2011, I did a bit more but that wasn't enough after a smear test, so I went w/ a pea size and that did a good smear


Oh i just meant when you send a card in for RMA. You said you used AS5 since its similar color as stock so I thought maybe you apply it just like the stock paste.
I always try to smear it out a little myself before clamping the waterblock down. I've tried various application methods, single pea sized blob in the center, X-shape, and thin application with a credit card. I kind of do a mixture of everything now. I put a rice size blob in the center with a small dab near the corners since that's where I'd always have bare spots using just the center blob. I think everyone is different and just apply however is easiest and gets the best spread for you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> 
> is this w/c setup really messy?


Not at all. Cleanest loop I've seen in ages








Yes, that is extremely untidy. Way too much slack in the tubes. And don't even get me started on the cable management. There doesn't look to be any cable management options though. So work with what ya got. Zips ties can be your best friend in cases like that.


----------



## Egami

Looking for zen


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Looking for zen
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you conduct open heart surgery in there? So clean!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> 
> is this w/c setup really messy?


Wires can be tucked behind the mb to make it a bit neater. If you're going for function, its really not that bad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey! I started talking about TIM as a polish!!


Wax on, wax off!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Oh i just meant when you send a card in for RMA. You said you used AS5 since its similar color as stock so I thought maybe you apply it just like the stock paste.
> I always try to smear it out a little myself before clamping the waterblock down. I've tried various application methods, single pea sized blob in the center, X-shape, and thin application with a credit card. I kind of do a mixture of everything now. I put a rice size blob in the center with a small dab near the corners since that's where I'd always have bare spots using just the center blob. I think everyone is different and just apply however is easiest and gets the best spread for you


Oops, I miss read and didn't edit quick enough







. I just go heavy if I have to return it. I don't by any means do a messy job like they do. The Fermi cards were just cake layered w/ tim from the manufacturer.

I used to do the "star" pattern (X +) but a small dot is has been working great for me recently (going back to basics). I've installed and reinstalled the Lightning BE block a few times that I have not noticed a difference other then its quick to just add a small rice grain size dot. I may occasion spread it if I find an abnormal temp reading.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Looking for zen


Looking sweet


----------



## morencyam

Guh, cleaning the stock TIM off my 470's was a major PITA! Nightmares for days!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Anyone have feedback on the Phobya Balancer reservoirs? They appear to be the only anondized dark gray reservoirs I've seen (ie they match my Z87X-UD3H motherboard and gray paracording), and got a side outlet on the bottom. Going to be hooking up a 250mm to my H110 clc.
> 
> 
> 
> i hope you realize that you need enough pressure from the res to the h110 block/pump to feed coolant to the pump so it doesnt burn up. i doubt any res with outlets as low as you plan to use will work. thats why so many use the swiftech microres mounted as high as they can in their case.
Click to expand...

No, I do not know what you mean. Do you mean that the water level in the res has to be above the pump, and that the res has to be before the pump?

What do you mean 'i doubt any res with outlets as low as' will work? What exactly are you talking about? I was told that how far up a tube has to go back up, doesn't matter, because the static pressure will be 0 anyways, ie what goes up has to have fallen down in the first place. So a tube going from your room to the basement and back up, is the same as a tube going to the ceiling and back down, and both are zero extra stress as just tubing going nowhere.

This is how my system will be set up:









Quote:


> The different between TIMs is a fraction of a degree. Not sure why everyone is getting so upset here. tongue.gif


Not sure. The difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_ is only a _couple degrees_, which really is quite dramatic since the best thermal pastes are all around $5-10 (a fan costs $10-15 and only yields a 0-1C temp decrease, yet no one says getting more fans is stupid).

_However, there is a *HUGE* temp difference between *EXTREME* TIMs like Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra, and your high end ceramique like PK-3, and there is a *HUGE* difference between a modern, high end ceramique like PK-3 and an old, outdated, weak paste like MX-4 or AS5 or Ice Diamond 7._ You're talking about a 10-15C difference between PK-3 and CLU, and about a 5-10C difference between PK-3 and AS5.

So yes, while there is little difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_, there is a very large difference if you use a crappy paste, or an 'extreme' TIM like CLU or Indigo Xtreme.

It would be like saying there is no difference between radiators - yes, any 240x25mm rad is pretty much going to be the same as any other, give or take 1-2C, but there's a huge difference between 240mm rads and 120mm rads, as well as a 240mm rad and a 360mm rad.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> As much as I love the look of the Iceforce, I think the Kryos would look better with copper tubes. But I like the look of copper more than nickle to begin with so I guess I'm a little biased


Yea I do like copper myself as well, I'm a bit unsure though if it won't look odd with the black radiators and the anodized aluminium (and a few hints of red from the board)


----------



## wermad

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616.html

I'm sure someone will find fault since its coming from Tom's (







). But hey, at least its recent







. Definitely going with Gelid Extreme
















at the "alternatives"


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> No, I do not know what you mean. Do you mean that the water level in the res has to be above the pump, and that the res has to be before the pump?
> 
> What do you mean 'i doubt any res with outlets as low as' will work? What exactly are you talking about? I was told that how far up a tube has to go back up, doesn't matter, because the static pressure will be 0 anyways, ie what goes up has to have fallen down in the first place. So a tube going from your room to the basement and back up, is the same as a tube going to the ceiling and back down, and both are zero extra stress as just tubing going nowhere.
> 
> This is how my system will be set up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone advised me to make it rad->res-->pump/block, so I'll do that instead.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure. The difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_ is only a _couple degrees_, which really is quite dramatic since the best thermal pastes are all around $5-10 (a fan costs $10-15 and only yields a 0-1C temp decrease, yet no one says getting more fans is stupid).
> 
> _However, there is a *HUGE* temp difference between *EXTREME* TIMs like Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra, and your high end ceramique like PK-3, and there is a *HUGE* difference between a modern, high end ceramique like PK-3 and an old, outdated, weak paste like MX-4 or AS5 or Ice Diamond 7._ You're talking about a 10-15C difference between PK-3 and CLU, and about a 5-10C difference between PK-3 and AS5.
> 
> So yes, while there is little difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_, there is a very large difference if you use a crappy paste, or an 'extreme' TIM like CLU or Indigo Xtreme.
> 
> It would be like saying there is no difference between radiators - yes, any 240x25mm rad is pretty much going to be the same as any other, give or take 1-2C, but there's a huge difference between 240mm rads and 120mm rads, as well as a 240mm rad and a 360mm rad.


I'm not sure if that's going to work. Since the pump is in the waterblock you need to always have a constant feed of coolant to the pump/block. And filling the res completely isn't going to get water to the CPU. I doubt it would even make it all the way into the radiator TBH.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616.html
> 
> I'm sure someone will find fault since its coming from Tom's (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But hey, at least its recent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Definitely going with Gelid Extreme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the "alternatives"


I actually saw a roundup like that where they tested Mayo. It actually didn't perform too bad. I bet it smelled awful during stress tests though


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Belial, the Phobya Balancer res is pretty nice, but I can't recommend it because the clips that come with it are cheap and break extremely easily.
> 
> 
> 
> What are clips?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> After seeing the pics, I shunned away from it and used ID7 instead. I know not everyone had these issues but it was enough for me to keep away. Destroying my Tahitis and w/ prices skyrocketing for 79xx series, no thanks tongue.gif. I'll stick w/ my old and trusty Ceramique for now. I'll be buying a tube of MX-4 or something else down the road. I have a few milligrams left of Ceramique. Temps are pretty good so I have no concerns. Just hoping no one destroys their gear using something as simple as thermal compound thumb.gif.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> MX-4 is pretty mediocre as well. Why would you spend $100s on premo water cooling and the very best components, and then use garbage, cheapo thermal paste lol...
> 
> You say temps are good, but I promise you a better paste would give you even better temps. There is not a single report of 'destroyed' gear with CLU and it sounds like you are just highly misinformed about thermal pastes. Things have come a long way since the days of DDR2, when MX-4 came out. Hegrease is the best ceramique by far, but PK-3, Masscool, Gelid, and even NH-T1 are muh better choices if you don't want to use CLU or CLP even.
> 
> The only possible 'destroying' is electrically conductive pastes, but I don't think anyone's even done that with CLU. With the way it is, it'd be impossible to use 'too much'.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with MX 4 or 2,both are solid pastes,hardware may have come a long way but the need for a thermal paste has been around since year dot,even now MX2 makes good ranking in most TIM shootouts.
CLU/P only gives these massive gains on the die/IHS interface,not when used as a normal paste.

And it is very possible to use too much.

I use Gelid and MX 2 myself,I have a tube of CLU for my 4770k delid but i wont be using that as the IHS/Block paste.

EDIT: Wermad knows the score...









Also...IC diamond is fit only for cleaning toilets,If i wanted grit in my paste then i would use Cif.


----------



## pc-illiterate

lol mad. i was going to post that comparison. i have no idea where he gets clu is 10-15*C better than pk-3 or even mx-4. hell even toothpaste isnt 15*C different.


----------



## morencyam

I think he means drop in load temps after delidding and applying CLU between die and IHS. I see those kind of numbers in the Delid thread often.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616.html
> 
> I'm sure someone will find fault since its coming from Tom's (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But hey, at least its recent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Definitely going with Gelid Extreme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the "alternatives"


Yes, Tom's hardware is a joke. It's pretty obvious why, look at the results - they are testing at 30C load temps? Gee, how indicative of real world overclocks









It'd also help if they were using a _hot_ CPU - you know, not some dualcore Athlon









Put it on a real world 80c+ real world overclock, and that 2C difference will be more like 10c.

The GPU test comes _close_ to being useful, and the resuls are exactly as I stated - CLU has a _7C gain over AS5_. I'd say that's massive for thermal paste, you'd never see a 7C temp drop anywhere else in the cooling world with only $10 bucks difference. That's the best value you'll find in cooling _anywhere_. Even a Delta fan won't get you 7C!

We're talking about pastes that cost about $2-5, so yea, it's a huge world of difference for 1-2C temp gains for just a dollar basically. CLU is a league of it's own, and it's definitely a lot more expensive, but as you can see in the GPU test results, The difference between it and #2 Gelid Extreme, is the same gap between #2 and last place TIM.

It's not the worst review I've seen, but testing such a low overclock on low heat makes it not very useful. But exactly as I said, there's little difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_ like Gelid, PK-3, Masscool. It's just the awful pastes that are far worse, like As5 being 5C worse than Gelid, and the extreme TIMs like CLU where it's 3C better, where you see dramatic differences in thermal pastes. Seeing as how CLU is only $15, it's really the best value you'll find in cooling, to use CLU. You'd never get as much of a temp gain for only $15 as you would with CLU, not $15 extra in a heatsink or water cooling parts, not $15 extra in fans...

Put it on a i7-4770K/3770K, an 8350, even an i5, or god forbid an Intel i7 Extreme, and you'll see the 10c+ gains I am talking about just with switching thermal paste. As usual, tomshardware is a joke.

What's scary though, is that some people think testing at 30C load temps with a dualcore athlon is somehow indicative of performance in a real world overclock


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> I'm not sure if that's going to work. Since the pump is in the waterblock you need to always have a constant feed of coolant to the pump/block. And filling the res completely isn't going to get water to the CPU. I doubt it would even make it all the way into the radiator TBH.


I changed the picture to this - res before pump. I'm not really sure what you are saying, people in the Mayhems club told me that res size doesnt matter, all that matters is restriction, and that as long as the water line on the res is above the pump, I'm okay.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Nothing wrong with MX 4 or 2,both are solid pastes,hardware may have come a long way but the need for a thermal paste has been around since year dot,even now MX2 makes good ranking in most TIM shootouts.
> CLU/P only gives these massive gains on the die/IHS interface,not when used as a normal paste.
> 
> And it is very possible to use too much.
> 
> I use Gelid and MX 2 myself,I have a tube of CLU for my 4770k delid but i wont be using that as the IHS/Block paste.
> 
> EDIT: Wermad knows the score...thumb.gif
> Also...IC diamond is fit only for cleaning toilets,If i wanted grit in my paste then i would use Cif.
> Edited by B NEGATIVE - Today at 2:45 pm


MX-4 is weak and outdated. Gelid, Masscool, Hegrease, PK-3 are much better ceramiques. MX-4 never makes a good ranking in legit TIM round-ups, I'm not sure where you get that.

Too much paste is definitely bad, and it's nearly impossible to use too little. I talk about and compare paste applications in my TIM review in my sig. A rice grain borders on too much paste, you really want a _small_ rice grain.
Quote:


> lol mad. i was going to post that comparison. i have no idea where he gets clu is 10-15*C better than pk-3 or even mx-4. hell even toothpaste isnt 15*C different.


When you actually use 80c+ load temps on a hot CPU, as everyone in here is using, and yes, on a delid IHS/Die. As I've mentioned repeatedly (delid club, delid, etc).


----------



## morencyam

How are you planning to get the coolant all the way up that tube and into the pump? They're right, res size doesn't matter, but placement does. The pump has to have a supply of coolant before powering on or you'll burn out the motor


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616.html
> 
> I'm sure someone will find fault since its coming from Tom's (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But hey, at least its recent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Definitely going with Gelid Extreme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the "alternatives"
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Tom's hardware is a joke. It's pretty obvious why, look at the results - they are testing at 30C load temps? Gee, how indicative of real world overclocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'd also help if they were using a _hot_ CPU - you know, not some dualcore Athlon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it on a real world 80c+ real world overclock, and that 2C difference will be more like 10c.
> 
> The GPU test comes _close_ to being useful, and the resuls are exactly as I stated - CLU has a _7C gain over AS5_. I'd say that's massive for thermal paste, you'd never see a 7C temp drop anywhere else in the cooling world with only $10 bucks difference. That's the best value you'll find in cooling _anywhere_. Even a Delta fan won't get you 7C!
> 
> We're talking about pastes that cost about $2-5, so yea, it's a huge world of difference for 1-2C temp gains for just a dollar basically. CLU is a league of it's own, and it's definitely a lot more expensive, but as you can see in the GPU test results, The difference between it and #2 Gelid Extreme, is the same gap between #2 and last place TIM.
> 
> It's not the worst review I've seen, but testing such a low overclock on low heat makes it not very useful. But exactly as I said, there's little difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_ like Gelid, PK-3, Masscool. It's just the awful pastes that are far worse, like As5 being 5C worse than Gelid, and the extreme TIMs like CLU where it's 3C better, where you see dramatic differences in thermal pastes. Seeing as how CLU is only $15, it's really the best value you'll find in cooling, to use CLU. You'd never get as much of a temp gain for only $15 as you would with CLU, not $15 extra in a heatsink or water cooling parts, not $15 extra in fans...
> 
> Put it on a i7-4770K/3770K, an 8350, even an i5, or god forbid an Intel i7 Extreme, and you'll see the 10c+ gains I am talking about just with switching thermal paste. As usual, tomshardware is a joke.
> 
> What's scary though, is that some people think testing at 30C load temps with a dualcore athlon is somehow indicative of performance in a real world overclock
Click to expand...



Last year.

And not Toms.


----------



## morencyam

There's the Mayo test! Look at that, right up there with IC Diamond and Gelid Extreme


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Yes, Tom's hardware is a joke. It's pretty obvious why, look at the results - they are testing at 30C load temps? Gee, how indicative of real world overclocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'd also help if they were using a _hot_ CPU - you know, not some dualcore Athlon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it on a real world 80c+ real world overclock, and that 2C difference will be more like 10c.
> 
> The GPU test comes _close_ to being useful, and the resuls are exactly as I stated - CLU has a _7C gain over AS5_. I'd say that's massive for thermal paste, you'd never see a 7C temp drop anywhere else in the cooling world with only $10 bucks difference. That's the best value you'll find in cooling _anywhere_. Even a Delta fan won't get you 7C!
> 
> We're talking about pastes that cost about $2-5, so yea, it's a huge world of difference for 1-2C temp gains for just a dollar basically. CLU is a league of it's own, and it's definitely a lot more expensive, but as you can see in the GPU test results, The difference between it and #2 Gelid Extreme, is the same gap between #2 and last place TIM.
> 
> It's not the worst review I've seen, but testing such a low overclock on low heat makes it not very useful. But exactly as I said, there's little difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_ like Gelid, PK-3, Masscool. It's just the awful pastes that are far worse, like As5 being 5C worse than Gelid, and the extreme TIMs like CLU where it's 3C better, where you see dramatic differences in thermal pastes. Seeing as how CLU is only $15, it's really the best value you'll find in cooling, to use CLU. You'd never get as much of a temp gain for only $15 as you would with CLU, not $15 extra in a heatsink or water cooling parts, not $15 extra in fans...
> 
> Put it on a i7-4770K/3770K, an 8350, even an i5, or god forbid an Intel i7 Extreme, and you'll see the 10c+ gains I am talking about just with switching thermal paste. As usual, tomshardware is a joke.
> 
> What's scary though, is that some people think testing at 30C load temps with a dualcore athlon is somehow indicative of performance in a real world overclock


Maybe read first, think second, and post third. They tested with a 8350 and a Q6600, and the temps shown on the chart are delta T, not load temps.

Or maybe you prefer Hwbot testing?










http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=71658


----------



## pc-illiterate

not only that but there is a major difference between using clu for a delid and using it for waterblock.


----------



## wermad

XFX did experiment w/ male human bodily fluids on their gpu(s).







eeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwww


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I changed the picture to this - res before pump. I'm not really sure what you are saying, people in the Mayhems club told me that res size doesnt matter, all that matters is restriction, and that as long as the water line on the res is above the pump, I'm okay.


This can work, but you'll most likely need to tilt the case or the reservoir in order to prime the pump. Once the pump is primed though, and you continue to fill the reservoir as it runs, you should be OK. Bleeding it might be difficult though. These pumps run quite slowly so it shouldn't be any problem to keep the reservoir topped off while the pump is running.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> XFX did experiment w/ male human bodily fluids on their gpu(s).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwww


How did the temps c*m out?

D.


----------



## szeged

the lack of spoilers in the past two pages is making me want to jump off a bridge


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Yes, Tom's hardware is a joke. It's pretty obvious why, look at the results - they are testing at 30C load temps? Gee, how indicative of real world overclocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'd also help if they were using a _hot_ CPU - you know, not some dualcore Athlon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it on a real world 80c+ real world overclock, and that 2C difference will be more like 10c.
> 
> The GPU test comes _close_ to being useful, and the resuls are exactly as I stated - CLU has a _7C gain over AS5_. I'd say that's massive for thermal paste, you'd never see a 7C temp drop anywhere else in the cooling world with only $10 bucks difference. That's the best value you'll find in cooling _anywhere_. Even a Delta fan won't get you 7C!
> 
> We're talking about pastes that cost about $2-5, so yea, it's a huge world of difference for 1-2C temp gains for just a dollar basically. CLU is a league of it's own, and it's definitely a lot more expensive, but as you can see in the GPU test results, The difference between it and #2 Gelid Extreme, is the same gap between #2 and last place TIM.
> 
> It's not the worst review I've seen, but testing such a low overclock on low heat makes it not very useful. But exactly as I said, there's little difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_ like Gelid, PK-3, Masscool. It's just the awful pastes that are far worse, like As5 being 5C worse than Gelid, and the extreme TIMs like CLU where it's 3C better, where you see dramatic differences in thermal pastes. Seeing as how CLU is only $15, it's really the best value you'll find in cooling, to use CLU. You'd never get as much of a temp gain for only $15 as you would with CLU, not $15 extra in a heatsink or water cooling parts, not $15 extra in fans...
> 
> Put it on a i7-4770K/3770K, an 8350, even an i5, or god forbid an Intel i7 Extreme, and you'll see the 10c+ gains I am talking about just with switching thermal paste. As usual, tomshardware is a joke.
> 
> What's scary though, is that some people think testing at 30C load temps with a dualcore athlon is somehow indicative of performance in a real world overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe read first, think second, and post third. They tested with a 8350 and a Q6600, and the temps shown on the chart are delta T, not load temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe you prefer Hwbot testing?
> 
> 
> 
> http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=71658
Click to expand...

No CLU in that list tho.....

All those values would fall within margin for error if this was outside of a lab environment.

Buying expensive TIM is one thing,to believe the hype is something else....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> XFX did experiment w/ male human bodily fluids on their gpu(s).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwww


Nasty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> XFX did experiment w/ male human bodily fluids on their gpu(s).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwww
> 
> 
> 
> How did the temps c*m out?
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

And you should know better than to encourage him.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How did the temps c*m out?
> 
> D.










Rofl


----------



## TheHommander




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHommander*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Elysium w/ Monstas, brings back memories







. Btw, this came to mind quickly:


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> XFX did experiment w/ male human bodily fluids on their gpu(s).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwww


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How did the temps c*m out?
> 
> D.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHommander*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What the heck is that sound?....

Oooooh, it's you're rig screaming for a WC'd GPU.

Looks very nice btw.


----------



## Canis-X

Actually, there were three different systems used in the THW review as shown below...









http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-heat-sink-heat-spreader,3600-7.html



Not that I want to get my nose in the debate, but I don't think it is as BIG a deal as Belial is making it out to be. Your TIM application and cooler mount method _are_ also very important and can cause differences in your load temps.....even as severe as 3-5C







. Time to relax me thinks.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How did the temps c*m out?
> 
> D.


My gudd!!!! CLASSIC! You, ma lady, are hilarious!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> This can work, but you'll most likely need to tilt the case or the reservoir in order to prime the pump. Once the pump is primed though, and you continue to fill the reservoir as it runs, you should be OK. Bleeding it might be difficult though. These pumps run quite slowly so it shouldn't be any problem to keep the reservoir topped off while the pump is running.


I'm sure during initial filling I'll have to hold the res up and stuff. I have no doubt I'm making things more difficult with the inlet at the top of the res too, but this mod isn't about easy. rep
Quote:


> How are you planning to get the coolant all the way up that tube and into the pump? They're right, res size doesn't matter, but placement does. The pump has to have a supply of coolant before powering on or you'll burn out the motor
> Edited by morencyam - Today at 3:01 pm


I'm not sure what you mean, I was told it shouldn't matter that water is flowing up because it had to flow down to begin with, so it's got an equilibrium. And as I fill the res, the water should match up to the same level on that tube.

As long as I keep the water level on the res above the pump, I believe I should be okay. As for making sure water is on the pump when I first start it, I'll blow through whatever tubes need to be blown through to get all through everything before I start it.

These sound like simple issues that every water cooler has to go through, rather than problems specific to my mod? Right? I mean don't get me wrong, your bringing up valid points but I think I can work through them with your help.









Here's my shopping list, xoxide and frozen do not have o-rings for G1/4 in black so ... not sure where to get those.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey! I started talking about TIM as a polish!!


hehe, I have heard stories about Cool Labs Liquid *PRO* causing some issues, but iv'e never heard any issues with CLU(ultra) besides staining. I can personally attest to it slightly absorbing into my 3570k IHS, but that's probably actually a good thing. It is conductive, so if people use TOOO MUCH (the thinner the better with CLU) you can have leakage, which could hit the wrong parts & cause death.

would love to see some actual proof of these CLU claims.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616.html
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure someone will find fault since its coming from Tom's (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But hey, at least its recent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Definitely going with Gelid Extreme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the "alternatives"
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Tom's hardware is a joke. It's pretty obvious why, look at the results - they are testing at 30C load temps? Gee, how indicative of real world overclocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'd also help if they were using a _hot_ CPU - you know, not some dualcore Athlon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it on a real world 80c+ real world overclock, and that 2C difference will be more like 10c.
> 
> The GPU test comes _close_ to being useful, and the resuls are exactly as I stated - CLU has a _7C gain over AS5_. I'd say that's massive for thermal paste, you'd never see a 7C temp drop anywhere else in the cooling world with only $10 bucks difference. That's the best value you'll find in cooling _anywhere_. Even a Delta fan won't get you 7C!
> 
> We're talking about pastes that cost about $2-5, so yea, it's a huge world of difference for 1-2C temp gains for just a dollar basically. CLU is a league of it's own, and it's definitely a lot more expensive, but as you can see in the GPU test results, The difference between it and #2 Gelid Extreme, is the same gap between #2 and last place TIM.
> 
> It's not the worst review I've seen, but testing such a low overclock on low heat makes it not very useful. But exactly as I said, there's little difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_ like Gelid, PK-3, Masscool. It's just the awful pastes that are far worse, like As5 being 5C worse than Gelid, and the extreme TIMs like CLU where it's 3C better, where you see dramatic differences in thermal pastes. Seeing as how CLU is only $15, it's really the best value you'll find in cooling, to use CLU. You'd never get as much of a temp gain for only $15 as you would with CLU, not $15 extra in a heatsink or water cooling parts, not $15 extra in fans...
> 
> Put it on a i7-4770K/3770K, an 8350, even an i5, or god forbid an Intel i7 Extreme, and you'll see the 10c+ gains I am talking about just with switching thermal paste. As usual, tomshardware is a joke.
> 
> What's scary though, is that some people think testing at 30C load temps with a dualcore athlon is somehow indicative of performance in a real world overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798166/width/500/height/1000]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798166/width/500/height/1000[/URL][/SPOILER]
> 
> Last year.
> 
> And not Toms.[/QUOTE]
> 
> Jesus christ, does no one look at the testing methodology? [IMG alt="rolleyes.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif
> 
> They tested a Core i7-860 _on stock voltage_. They had a load temp of ~50-60C. They also did not use the hottest core reading, but an 'arithmetic average' of all cores. What a useless review, as usual by hardwaresecrest (they have awesome articles, just their reviews are garbage...).
> 
> Try (cherry picking) again.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe read first, think second, and post third. They tested with a 8350 and a Q6600, and the temps shown on the chart are delta T, not load temps.
> 
> Or maybe you prefer Hwbot testing?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh gee, a 1.2v 3770K, I'm sure that's going to produce a lot of heat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> hehe, I have heard stories about Cool Labs Liquid PRO causing some issues, but iv'e never heard any issues with CLU(ultra) besides staining. I can personally attest to it slightly absorbing into my 3570k IHS, but that's probably actually a good thing. It is conductive, so if people use TOOO MUCH (the thinner the better with CLU) you can have leakage, which could hit the wrong parts & cause death.
> 
> would love to see some actual proof of these CLU claims.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There aren't any proof, it's the same misinformed boogeyman comments you hear when people say overclocking is super dangerous, CLCs and water cooling is risky and leak all the time, or RAM overclocking is useless.
Click to expand...


----------



## phillyd

You guys know of any blocks that will cool the MSi 760 Gaming ITX GPU?

I'm having trouble finding info about this.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I'm sure during initial filling I'll have to hold the res up and stuff. I have no doubt I'm making things more difficult with the inlet at the top of the res too, but this mod isn't about easy. rep
> I'm not sure what you mean, I was told it shouldn't matter that water is flowing up because it had to flow down to begin with, so it's got an equilibrium. And as I fill the res, the water should match up to the same level on that tube.
> 
> As long as I keep the water level on the res above the pump, I believe I should be okay. As for making sure water is on the pump when I first start it, I'll blow through whatever tubes need to be blown through to get all through everything before I start it.
> 
> These sound like simple issues that every water cooler has to go through, rather than problems specific to my mod? Right? I mean don't get me wrong, your bringing up valid points but I think I can work through them with your help.


I had a similar loop setup in a previous build. It's very doable, you just may have to shake and tilt the case more than you'd like. Cart looks good, other than the fact I'm confused why you've got both 3/8ID and 1/4ID in there.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHommander*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You have such a sexy setup, but please oh please do something about routing the tubing. It might be me being a bit OCD, but it basically looks like you spent a ridiculous amount of time on everything, and spent about 2-3 minutes doing tubing routing.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Do you conduct open heart surgery in there? So clean!


Thanks morencyam! Your comment reminds me this












I sadly lack the skills to do a shot with a small operating table and blood splatter all around the walls and hardware.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looking sweet


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You guys know of any blocks that will cool the MSi 760 Gaming ITX GPU?
> 
> I'm having trouble finding info about this.


I believe you will have to go with a universal waterblock for that card. There isn't even a FC block for the Asus GTX 670 DC2 Mini (that I know of), which is pretty much the same size as the MSI GTX 760 Gaming ITX.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616.html
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure someone will find fault since its coming from Tom's (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But hey, at least its recent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Definitely going with Gelid Extreme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the "alternatives"
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Tom's hardware is a joke. It's pretty obvious why, look at the results - they are testing at 30C load temps? Gee, how indicative of real world overclocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'd also help if they were using a _hot_ CPU - you know, not some dualcore Athlon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it on a real world 80c+ real world overclock, and that 2C difference will be more like 10c.
> 
> The GPU test comes _close_ to being useful, and the resuls are exactly as I stated - CLU has a _7C gain over AS5_. I'd say that's massive for thermal paste, you'd never see a 7C temp drop anywhere else in the cooling world with only $10 bucks difference. That's the best value you'll find in cooling _anywhere_. Even a Delta fan won't get you 7C!
> 
> We're talking about pastes that cost about $2-5, so yea, it's a huge world of difference for 1-2C temp gains for just a dollar basically. CLU is a league of it's own, and it's definitely a lot more expensive, but as you can see in the GPU test results, The difference between it and #2 Gelid Extreme, is the same gap between #2 and last place TIM.
> 
> It's not the worst review I've seen, but testing such a low overclock on low heat makes it not very useful. But exactly as I said, there's little difference between _modern, high end ceramiques_ like Gelid, PK-3, Masscool. It's just the awful pastes that are far worse, like As5 being 5C worse than Gelid, and the extreme TIMs like CLU where it's 3C better, where you see dramatic differences in thermal pastes. Seeing as how CLU is only $15, it's really the best value you'll find in cooling, to use CLU. You'd never get as much of a temp gain for only $15 as you would with CLU, not $15 extra in a heatsink or water cooling parts, not $15 extra in fans...
> 
> Put it on a i7-4770K/3770K, an 8350, even an i5, or god forbid an Intel i7 Extreme, and you'll see the 10c+ gains I am talking about just with switching thermal paste. As usual, tomshardware is a joke.
> 
> What's scary though, is that some people think testing at 30C load temps with a dualcore athlon is somehow indicative of performance in a real world overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798166/width/500/height/1000]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798166/width/500/height/1000[/URL][/SPOILER]
> 
> Last year.
> 
> And not Toms.[/QUOTE]
> 
> Jesus christ, does no one look at the testing methodology? [IMG alt="rolleyes.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif
> 
> They tested a Core i7-860 _on stock voltage_. They had a load temp of ~50-60C. They also did not use the hottest core reading, but an 'arithmetic average' of all cores. What a useless review, as usual by hardwaresecrest (they have awesome articles, just their reviews are garbage...).
> 
> Try (cherry picking) again.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe read first, think second, and post third. They tested with a 8350 and a Q6600, and the temps shown on the chart are delta T, not load temps.
> 
> Or maybe you prefer Hwbot testing?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh gee, a 1.2v 3770K, I'm sure that's going to produce a lot of heat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> hehe, I have heard stories about Cool Labs Liquid PRO causing some issues, but iv'e never heard any issues with CLU(ultra) besides staining. I can personally attest to it slightly absorbing into my 3570k IHS, but that's probably actually a good thing. It is conductive, so if people use TOOO MUCH (the thinner the better with CLU) you can have leakage, which could hit the wrong parts & cause death.
> 
> would love to see some actual proof of these CLU claims.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There aren't any proof, it's the same misinformed boogeyman comments you hear when people say overclocking is super dangerous, CLCs and water cooling is risky and leak all the time, or RAM overclocking is useless.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You are rapidly making yourself out to be a bit of a fool,no one cares what chip it is or what volts are used,its just a test rig,a baseline control for the test,paste doesnt magically become a better conductor at higher temps,the transfer rate is constant,W/(m·K) doesnt alter.
> 
> And cherry picked? Hardly,I just used the first one google threw up. Perhaps the others here that also disagree are cherry picking?
Click to expand...


----------



## wermad

^^^ Ocn quote bug strikes again


----------



## WebsterXC

Could anyone link me to some pictures of builds using Mayhems Hydra Gold fluid? May be using it for my next build but want to see what it looks like.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> I'm not sure what you mean, I was told it shouldn't matter that water is flowing up because it had to flow down to begin with, so it's got an equilibrium. And as I fill the res, the water should match up to the same level on that tube.


If there were no air gaps in the loop at all, then yes, this would be true. But the coolant will only flow far on it's own before stopping, ie the coolant level in the reservoir.
Quote:


> As long as I keep the water level on the res above the pump, I believe I should be okay. As for making sure water is on the pump when I first start it, I'll blow through whatever tubes need to be blown through to get all through everything before I start it.


Yes, for the coolant to enter the pump on it's own the level in the reservoir needs to be higher that that of the pump. I'm not sure if blowing into the tube would help though because it would just flow right back down to the lowest point.
Quote:


> These sound like simple issues that every water cooler has to go through, rather than problems specific to my mod? Right? I mean don't get me wrong, your bringing up valid points but I think I can work through them with your help.


For the most part it's unique to your mod. Not may people build custom loops using the pump/block from AIO coolers so they are able to place the pump lower than even the lowest part of the reservoir. But since you have the pump up so high you need to get the reservoir up as high as possible to ensure coolant makes it all the way into the pump on it's own before powering on.

I really am trying to help, but since I've never done anything like that myself, or even seen it done really, it's hard to relate it to other builds.

Lets try a different example. One that everyone that's ever been to a college party would understand. A beer bong. Say the funnel is your reservoir and your mouth is the pump. To get the beer to your mouth you need to hold the funnel above your mouth. As soon as the level of beer becomes even with you mouth, it stops flowing, which is why you hold the funnel high above your head. The higher the funnel, the faster the beer flows. So you need to get the beer level in the funnel as high above your mouth as you can. Make sense?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Thanks morencyam! Your comment reminds me this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sadly lack the skills to do a shot with a small operating table and blood splatter all around the walls and hardware.


HAHA! that's effing hilarious! I've never seen that before


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^ Ocn quote bug strikes again


I know,its doing my head in.

In other news....


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You guys know of any blocks that will cool the MSi 760 Gaming ITX GPU?
> 
> I'm having trouble finding info about this.


I think there are none, just as there are none for the Asus 670/760 DC2 mini. They both have oversized PCBs, over-tall like the EVGA classified design. If think if you want to watercool 660ti/670/760 then get a reference card since the PCB is smaller


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I'm sure during initial filling I'll have to hold the res up and stuff. I have no doubt I'm making things more difficult with the inlet at the top of the res too, but this mod isn't about easy. rep
> I'm not sure what you mean, I was told it shouldn't matter that water is flowing up because it had to flow down to begin with, so it's got an equilibrium. And as I fill the res, the water should match up to the same level on that tube.
> 
> As long as I keep the water level on the res above the pump, I believe I should be okay. As for making sure water is on the pump when I first start it, I'll blow through whatever tubes need to be blown through to get all through everything before I start it.
> 
> These sound like simple issues that every water cooler has to go through, rather than problems specific to my mod? Right? I mean don't get me wrong, your bringing up valid points but I think I can work through them with your help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a similar loop setup in a previous build. It's very doable, you just may have to shake and tilt the case more than you'd like. Cart looks good, other than the fact I'm confused why you've got both 3/8ID and 1/4ID in there.
Click to expand...

H110 uses 1/4 x 7/16. H60 2013 uses 3/8 x 9/16 tubing.

I need a 1/4ID and 3/8 ID tubing. Unfortunately, no primochill advanced clear in that size, and mayherms apparently cant be used with tygon, so I'm unsure of tubing.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> H110 uses 1/4 x 7/16. H60 2013 uses 3/8 x 9/16 tubing.
> 
> I need a 1/4ID and 3/8 ID tubing. Unfortunately, no primochill advanced clear in that size, and mayherms apparently cant be used with tygon, so I'm unsure of tubing.


There is norprene in that size.


----------



## Belial

lol no norprene. Must be clear. Note the $60 of mayhems fluid


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> lol no norprene. Must be clear. Note the $60 of mayhems fluid


Note the continual effort to use an H100 modded, where you can easily spend this much money on a custom loop. Fyi


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Anyone have feedback on the Phobya Balancer reservoirs? They appear to be the only anondized dark gray reservoirs I've seen (ie they match my Z87X-UD3H motherboard and gray paracording), and got a side outlet on the bottom. Going to be hooking up a 250mm to my H110 clc.
> !?!? I don't think this is true... can you post a pic or link?
> 
> CLU/Gallium will melt aluminum in seconds, but otherwise it's fine, ie nickel, copper, brass. It will tarnish copper and nickel a little bit, but you can actually scrub off the tarnish easily with the included scrubbing pad (or any scrubber). It can stain after a few months, but who cares. It's far better than anything else on the market, including Ice Diamond 7. You're talking like a 5-10C+ temp gain over the 2nd best paste, and it's far cheaper and more consistent than Indigo.
> 
> It definitely does not _destroy_ anything, that just sounds like someone being misinformed...
> 
> The Official Delid club is really the best place for CLU (and thermal paste in general) discussion, you have a ton of people in there who use CLU as well as test thermal pastes, and it's got a page comparing thermal paste performance based on user submissions. CLU on average is about 10-15C better then any other paste used there. I personally saw a 15C gain going from PK-3 to CLU, and PK-3 is considered one of the top3 pastes.
> 
> Bear in mind, while CLU has never destroyed any chips, Ice Diamond 7 actually has (oh the irony in saying you dont use CLU but use ID7 'to be safe'):
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1411528/avoid-ic-diamond-thermal-paste/0_100
> 
> The CEO had challenged the community at large to test his paste out and submit results on a public page on the website, and then when people showed poor results as well as ruined components, he accused the community. Real piece of work for a very sub-par and overpriced paste.
> 
> Finally, ID7 actually will stain, just like CLU. Please be more informed when you want to trash a company's product, the people of CLU have worked pretty hard to make an excellent product and their customer service is amazing. They sent me a free tube when I had issue and said they must have had a bad batch - they didn't say I docted photos and made it up lol!


I have had CLU harden on my CPU block but even after it hardened on my block the CPU cleaned off cleanly. The key here is that the Die is glass and does not react to the components of CLU. I shied away from using it because after it starts hardening the temps do go up and it is a PITA to remove.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> What are clips?
> MX-4 is pretty mediocre as well. Why would you spend $100s on premo water cooling and the very best components, and then use garbage, cheapo thermal paste lol...
> 
> You say temps are good, but I promise you a better paste would give you even better temps. There is not a single report of 'destroyed' gear with CLU and it sounds like you are just highly misinformed about thermal pastes. Things have come a long way since the days of DDR2, when MX-4 came out. Hegrease is the best ceramique by far, but PK-3, Masscool, Gelid, and even NH-T1 are muh better choices if you don't want to use CLU or CLP even.
> 
> The only possible 'destroying' is electrically conductive pastes, but I don't think anyone's even done that with CLU. With the way it is, it'd be impossible to use 'too much'.


As long as the die that CLU is being applied to is glass there should be no issues. Personally when I moved away from CLU I moved to MX-4 and quite honestly the temp differences are ~1C not significant enough to deal with re applying CLU when it dries out and repolishing the block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think the liquid metal TIM hardening was more prominent with CLP. In all the reading I've done I've seen only a few cases where CLU hardens as well, but not to the point of damaging the die. Most of the bonding I've seen though was between the IHS and HSF and was fine between die and IHS.


Nickel plated surfaces have a slower reaction with CLU hence why the IHS doesnt normally get damaged in a CLU application. When I was running with the IHS and CLU between the IHS and the die it cleaned super easy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, this was just a few months ago. I asked in the Delid thread and that's when the warnings on CLU came up. SkyNet was very helpful w/ my delid and he also warned me about it and recommended Ice Diamond instead.
> 
> If ppl are not having issues, that's good. Again, just sending out a warning from what I was told and pics I saw. The pics shown did have both the die and the gpu cores destroyed after removing the ihs/hsf. I have no clue on what the chemical reaction is but the destruction is enough for me to stay away.
> 
> How much is the thermal advantage anyways? Also, noticed its old stuff too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (like my Ceramique
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). The Gelid Extreme EK includes is pretty good too, may get some of that. My local Fry's still has some ShinEtzu and that was popular for some time.


IC Diamond is not recommended for use on the die, the diamond particles can create micro scratches on the surface of the die that can turn in to cracks due to the pressure from the block on the die. Cases of this have been documented in the delid thread.

Most of the issues with damaged dies have been with CLP not CLU, the problem with CLU is that temps do start going up once it dries which is what you have to keep your eye on. I delid a chip for a buddy the same time I did my direct die mount and he is still good with CLU the only difference is that his block is nickel plated vs mine is just plain copper.


----------



## skupples

While iv'e heard CLU can dry i'm wondering if extreme temp is what causes it. I just pulled apart my 9 month old 3570k de-lid & the CLU was still very liquid. On the other hand the CLU between the nickel block & IHS was a different story. It looked like the CLU had absorbed into the crappy soft copper of the IHS, but what was on the nickel block was still pretty fluid.

I'm using it again between copper & copper, so we shall see how that goes. I have access to a polishing wheel so i'm not too worried about it.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> You are rapidly making yourself out to be a bit of a fool,no one cares what chip it is or what volts are used,its just a test rig,a baseline control for the test,paste doesnt magically become a better conductor at higher temps,the transfer rate is constant,W/(m·K) doesnt alter.
> 
> And cherry picked? Hardly,I just used the first one google threw up. Perhaps the others here that also disagree are cherry picking?


Speak for yourself, god forbid people have a nice conversation around here and have to resort to name calling









It matters, when people think that 'thermal pastes dont matter' because they read bad reviews that test stock voltages and near-stock powers, they think there's only a 1C difference between the best and worst paste, and it's simply not true. These same review sites would have you believe water cooling is only a 5-10C difference between air too.

At higher temps, the differences become _exaggerated_. What's a 3C difference on Tomshardware, is more like a 9-12C difference when you push a high overclock, like 99% of the people in this club are doing. At the very least, the vast majority of OCN'ers and overclockers in general are pushing far harder overclocks than toms or hwsecrets stock voltage overclocks. We aren't paying thousands for custom loops, high end motherboards, all to push stock voltage 10% overclocks, we're pushing the same 4.4-5ghz as most people do with a moderate increase in voltage.

Pick a better thermal paste review. I'm sure you are well aware of the fact that most review sites are garbage and do not do critical reviews that fully explore the products used.

A big problem with thermal paste and heatsink reviews is that they want to put the worst TIM or heatsink on the same page as the best. In the real world, you'd have 60-70C on a custom water loop and a Hyper 212 would be like 150C and just not even usable, but for such a heatsink review, they gotta put them on the same graph so you see a 60-70C Hyper 212 and a 50C custom water loop. That leads people to think things like 'Well water isn't worth it', or 'the hyper 212 aint so bad', but you do a real world overclock on a real world CPU and the difference becomes massive.

I'm not saying test 1.55v on a 4960x, but at least test an i7 at [email protected] These hardware reviews really need to be _more voltage_ than real world usage, not less, to fully push this stuff and exaggerate the differences, not less.

The GPU test that TH did is at least useful and relevant, and it's exactly consistent with everything I stated.
Quote:


> While iv'e heard CLU can dry i'm wondering if extreme temp is what causes it. I just pulled apart my 9 month old 3570k de-lid & the CLU was still very liquid. On the other hand the CLU between the nickel block & IHS was a different story. It looked like the CLU had absorbed into the crappy soft copper of the IHS, but what was on the nickel block was still pretty fluid.


I think CLU is a mix of liquid (gallium likely) and solids suspending in the solution. I've had tubes dry out and like I couldn't push it all out because all the solids just clump up at the end of the tube. I think it does stain in a bit and that's where some of the liquid goes, but that's also how it gets such a solid contact and works so well.

You can find hegrease right now on PFPC (or xoxide? one of those sites...) for $1.99 for a 1g tube, which is basically a lifetime supply for most users. There's just no excuse to be using something as crappy as MX-4 or AS5 when you can get the best ceramique in the world _for only $2_.

And CLU for $15, I mean that's literally the best value in cooling anywhere in the world, no where else will $15 go so far and give you such a temp drop. It's just silly for people with $300 cpus, $500 custom loops, etc, to cheap out on thermal paste.
Quote:


> As long as the die that CLU is being applied to is glass there should be no issues. Personally when I moved away from CLU I moved to MX-4 and quite honestly the temp differences are ~1C not significant enough to deal with re applying CLU when it dries out and repolishing the block.


What was it being used on and the overclock? If you only saw a 1C difference that sounds more like just not really needing a high end thermal paste in the first place rather then CLU being bad or MX-4 being good. If you run stock clocks or a low overclock then there's no point in getting different paste.


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Note the continual effort to use an H100 modded, where you can easily spend this much money on a custom loop. Fyi


Hehe must have read my mind


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> lol no norprene. Must be clear. Note the $60 of mayhems fluid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the continual effort to use an H100 modded, where you can easily spend this much money on a custom loop. Fyi
Click to expand...


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> lol no norprene. Must be clear. Note the $60 of mayhems fluid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the continual effort to use an H100 modded, where you can easily spend this much money on a custom loop. Fyi
Click to expand...

I know people around here hate modding and are strongly against trying new things, but this is $150 that on top would have been needed on a custom loop all the same.

$60 is Mayhems, $40 in res, $20 in shipping, $20 in fittings. It'd still be an extra ~$200+ for a basic custom loop.

And like I said, this is an aesthetic mod. I'll consider it a resounding success if I get zero gains in temps, but I predict a 10C temp drop. I dont know why people are so dang unsupportive, a custom loop using Mayhems fluids, the same res, and fittings, would've cost over $350, I've only spent $90 + 150 = 240 vs 350.


----------



## skupples

The biggest issue I see with CLU is the user. They stick half of a tube on the CPU IHS.... When really they should be using 3CC @ most. I just used the leakage from inside the cap to do 2x titan cores.


----------



## natsu2014

Didn't realize that difference between Primochill 16/10 and 16/11 is that noticeable. Looks like 16/10 is not excatly 10 ID but 9.5 maybe


----------



## Close2Death

Just getting ready to change it. Getting rid of the HD 7990, swapping in 2 GTX 780s (an HoF and a Lightning, each in black and white)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Most of the issues with damaged dies have been with CLP not CLU, the problem with CLU is that temps do start going up once it dries which is what you have to keep your eye on. I delid a chip for a buddy the same time I did my direct die mount and he is still good with CLU the only difference is that his block is nickel plated vs mine is just plain copper.


Yup, I did hear the warnings on ID7 to make sure the ihs doesn't slide when clamping down the socket bracket to avoid scratching it. I was very pleased w/ the results. Went from ~80c (@ 4.7) down to 60°c @ 4.9 on my old 4760k. I sold the cpu in a hearbeat since I got a deal on the X79 mb. I did test my stock 3930k w/ Ceramique and it loaded ~60c using an Enermax T40 hsf. Cant wait to get the cpu underwater and using the Gelid tim.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I know people around here hate modding and are strongly against trying new things, but this is $150 that on top would have been needed on a custom loop all the same.
> 
> $60 is Mayhems, $40 in res, $20 in shipping, $20 in fittings. It'd still be an extra ~$200+ for a basic custom loop.
> 
> And like I said, this is an aesthetic mod. I'll consider it a resounding success if I get zero gains in temps, but I predict a 10C temp drop. I dont know why people are so dang unsupportive, a custom loop using Mayhems fluids, the same res, and fittings, would've cost over $350, I've only spent $90 + 150 = 240 vs 350.


XSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Watercooling Kit w/ EX280 Radiator/750 Pump/Res XSPC $169.99
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=38685

cheaper and better than your mod that isnt going to net you much in temp drops as you believe. once the liquid in the loop heats up, youll have almost the same temps.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> What was it being used on and the overclock? If you only saw a 1C difference that sounds more like just not really needing a high end thermal paste in the first place rather then CLU being bad or MX-4 being good. If you run stock clocks or a low overclock then there's no point in getting different paste.


As my sig rig shows Im cooling a 4770K. I overclocked it to 4.8 under 1.35v

See the problem with all of the hype with CLU ( I admit that I believed it at first) is that people delid their chips use it and claim that their temp drops are attributed mostly to the use of CLU but most don't bother to test other things out.

When you remove the IHS it is a different ballgame Sure I dropped over 15C when I delid but most of it was from removing intels stock paste not because of the CLU. I tested various methods, CLU between the die and IHS with both CLU or MX4 between the block. In this application CLU had the edge of maybe tops 3C if you are lucky not the fabled 10C people promise over other applications. However most of my tests showed a difference of ~1 on the hottest core. I tested CLU on direct die and MX4 on direct die with almost identical results. Sure I dropped more degrees by going direct die however again the gain was not attributed to CLU it was the fact that my cooling element was in direct contact with the die instead of the IHS.

I went with CLU initially because 1, I had it on hand and 2, I wanted that ~1C difference however after two short months the temps started climbing slowly but steadily and when I removed my block I noticed the CLU was dried on the block, the DIE was fine however, I had to sand and re polish my block and even after a good polish the center of the block has a permanent silver stain. So after going through all of that trouble I decided to just stick with my trusty MX-4 because although I do like to mess with my computer constantly swapping components, I dont want to risk CLU hardening on my block to the point that my temps damage my CPU.


----------



## Fonne

Is just trying to see how much stuff I got in all the boxes ....

(From the left: Rads, waterblock, res, pumps, fittings etc)



+ I know that I got a bit more somewhere ... Is going to sell a lot of it, so I can buy 3x Alphacool XT45 + some new stuff ...









Only me that got some spare parts ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> You are rapidly making yourself out to be a bit of a fool,no one cares what chip it is or what volts are used,its just a test rig,a baseline control for the test,paste doesnt magically become a better conductor at higher temps,the transfer rate is constant,W/(m·K) doesnt alter.
> 
> And cherry picked? Hardly,I just used the first one google threw up. Perhaps the others here that also disagree are cherry picking?
> 
> 
> 
> Speak for yourself, god forbid people have a nice conversation around here and have to resort to name calling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It matters, when people think that 'thermal pastes dont matter' because they read bad reviews that test stock voltages and near-stock powers, they think there's only a 1C difference between the best and worst paste, and it's simply not true. These same review sites would have you believe water cooling is only a 5-10C difference between air too.
> 
> *At higher temps, the differences become exaggerated.* What's a 3C difference on Tomshardware, is more like a *9-12C difference* when you push a high overclock, like 99% of the people in this club are doing. At the very least, the vast majority of OCN'ers and overclockers in general are pushing far harder overclocks than toms or hwsecrets stock voltage overclocks. We aren't paying thousands for custom loops, high end motherboards, all to push stock voltage 10% overclocks, we're pushing the same 4.4-5ghz as most people do with a moderate increase in voltage.
> 
> Pick a better thermal paste review. I'm sure you are well aware of the fact that most review sites are garbage and do not do critical reviews that fully explore the products used.
> 
> A big problem with thermal paste and heatsink reviews is that they want to put the worst TIM or heatsink on the same page as the best. In the real world, you'd have 60-70C on a custom water loop and a Hyper 212 would be like 150C and just not even usable, but for such a heatsink review, they gotta put them on the same graph so you see a 60-70C Hyper 212 and a 50C custom water loop. That leads people to think things like 'Well water isn't worth it', or 'the hyper 212 aint so bad', but you do a real world overclock on a real world CPU and the difference becomes massive.
> 
> I'm not saying test 1.55v on a 4960x, but at least test an i7 at [email protected] These hardware reviews really need to be _more voltage_ than real world usage, not less, to fully push this stuff and exaggerate the differences, not less.
> 
> The GPU test that TH did is at least useful and relevant, and it's exactly consistent with everything I stated.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> While iv'e heard CLU can dry i'm wondering if extreme temp is what causes it. I just pulled apart my 9 month old 3570k de-lid & the CLU was still very liquid. On the other hand the CLU between the nickel block & IHS was a different story. It looked like the CLU had absorbed into the crappy soft copper of the IHS, but what was on the nickel block was still pretty fluid.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think CLU is a mix of liquid (gallium likely) and solids suspending in the solution. I've had tubes dry out and like I couldn't push it all out because all the solids just clump up at the end of the tube. I think it does stain in a bit and that's where some of the liquid goes, but that's also how it gets such a solid contact and works so well.
> 
> You can find hegrease right now on PFPC (or xoxide? one of those sites...) for $1.99 for a 1g tube, which is basically a lifetime supply for most users. There's just no excuse to be using something as crappy as MX-4 or AS5 when you can get the best ceramique in the world _for only $2_.
> 
> And CLU for $15, I mean that's literally the best value in cooling anywhere in the world, no where else will $15 go so far and give you such a temp drop. It's just silly for people with $300 cpus, $500 custom loops, etc, to cheap out on thermal paste.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> As long as the die that CLU is being applied to is glass there should be no issues. Personally when I moved away from CLU I moved to MX-4 and quite honestly the temp differences are ~1C not significant enough to deal with re applying CLU when it dries out and repolishing the block.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What was it being used on and the overclock? If you only saw a 1C difference that sounds more like just not really needing a high end thermal paste in the first place rather then CLU being bad or MX-4 being good. If you run stock clocks or a low overclock then there's no point in getting different paste.
Click to expand...

Proof of these claims you make? I see a lot of assumptions but no actual evidence to support your claims. I dont see any difference beyond 2c between the pastes i have used,that includes MX2 and Gelid Extreme. This is with a pair 4.1 westmere hexacore at 1.33v. Not the coolest running chips in the world and i see nothing to support this _exaggeration_ of temp differences with an overclock. And certainly not in the 9-12c bracket as you claim.

If that fluid is Pastel and you bought into the nanofluid rubbish...then boy are you in for a shock....
If performance is what you are interested in then why are you dumping that junk in to your loop?

Even the delid club dont recommend the use of CLU or CLP as a block/CPU material.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Is just trying to see how much stuff I got in all the boxes ....
> 
> (From the left: Rads, waterblock, res, pumps, fittings etc)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> + I know that I got a bit more somewhere ... Is going to sell a lot of it, so I can buy 3x Alphacool XT45 + some new stuff ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only me that got some spare parts ?


Wow nice score!


----------



## TheHommander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Elysium w/ Monstas, brings back memories
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Haha thanks man, it's the best combo!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> What the heck is that sound?....
> 
> Oooooh, it's you're rig screaming for a WC'd GPU.
> 
> Looks very nice btw.


You got it, I was thinking of 2 7970s or maybe a 7990?!?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> You have such a sexy setup, but please oh please do something about routing the tubing. It might be me being a bit OCD, but it basically looks like you spent a ridiculous amount of time on everything, and spent about 2-3 minutes doing tubing routing.


Yeah its getting torn apart soon again... have to put video cards in as well as a couple of little upgrades. I was mostly just testing how it looked, i think i will make it much neater next time around! (believe it or not that tubing took me forever haha, so hard to get it where you want it!)


----------



## stickg1

What would you choose between the EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES 140 and the EK-D5 Vario X-RES 140

The D5 is the better pump but it seems awkward to mount. This is a variable speed pump right? Wouldn't the speed switch be located directly under the pump? That could be annoying.


----------



## skupples

PWM pump FTW!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I know people around here hate modding and are strongly against trying new things, but this is $150 that on top would have been needed on a custom loop all the same.
> 
> $60 is Mayhems, $40 in res, $20 in shipping, $20 in fittings. It'd still be an extra ~$200+ for a basic custom loop.
> 
> And like I said, this is an aesthetic mod. I'll consider it a resounding success if I get zero gains in temps, but I predict a 10C temp drop. I dont know why people are so dang unsupportive, a custom loop using Mayhems fluids, the same res, and fittings, would've cost over $350, I've only spent $90 + 150 = 240 vs 350.
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Watercooling Kit w/ EX280 Radiator/750 Pump/Res XSPC $169.99
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=38685
> 
> cheaper and better than your mod that isnt going to net you much in temp drops as you believe. once the liquid in the loop heats up, youll have almost the same temps.
Click to expand...

Add $60 for Mayhems fluid, $20 for fittings, $20 for tubing, $20 in shipping, $40 for a tube res because I dont want a bay res, and its no longer a better deal. It becomes $90 + 160 vs $170 + 160, suddenly not a great deal.

Please, I know some people here just hate modding and taking things apart but I never said this was a recommendable mod, it's something to do as a fun mod that has to do with a DIY, low cost theme of my build. If I was using a 240mm CLC @ $40 itd be even cheaper.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What would you choose between the EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES 140 and the EK-D5 Vario X-RES 140
> 
> The D5 is the better pump but it seems awkward to mount. This is a variable speed pump right? Wouldn't the speed switch be located directly under the pump? That could be annoying.


Neither. I would get the DDC 3.2 PWM.

The D5 isn't nessessarily the better pump. It is the quieter pump at full speed. DDCs are more powerful and definitely smaller. But @ full speed they are considerably louder. However if you buy the PWM version you can easily control the speed of the pump via a motherboard header or PWM fan controller.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> You are rapidly making yourself out to be a bit of a fool,no one cares what chip it is or what volts are used,its just a test rig,a baseline control for the test,paste doesnt magically become a better conductor at higher temps,the transfer rate is constant,W/(m·K) doesnt alter.
> 
> And cherry picked? Hardly,I just used the first one google threw up. Perhaps the others here that also disagree are cherry picking?
> 
> 
> 
> Speak for yourself, god forbid people have a nice conversation around here and have to resort to name calling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It matters, when people think that 'thermal pastes dont matter' because they read bad reviews that test stock voltages and near-stock powers, they think there's only a 1C difference between the best and worst paste, and it's simply not true. These same review sites would have you believe water cooling is only a 5-10C difference between air too.
> 
> *At higher temps, the differences become exaggerated.* What's a 3C difference on Tomshardware, is more like a *9-12C difference* when you push a high overclock, like 99% of the people in this club are doing. At the very least, the vast majority of OCN'ers and overclockers in general are pushing far harder overclocks than toms or hwsecrets stock voltage overclocks. We aren't paying thousands for custom loops, high end motherboards, all to push stock voltage 10% overclocks, we're pushing the same 4.4-5ghz as most people do with a moderate increase in voltage.
> 
> Pick a better thermal paste review. I'm sure you are well aware of the fact that most review sites are garbage and do not do critical reviews that fully explore the products used.
> 
> A big problem with thermal paste and heatsink reviews is that they want to put the worst TIM or heatsink on the same page as the best. In the real world, you'd have 60-70C on a custom water loop and a Hyper 212 would be like 150C and just not even usable, but for such a heatsink review, they gotta put them on the same graph so you see a 60-70C Hyper 212 and a 50C custom water loop. That leads people to think things like 'Well water isn't worth it', or 'the hyper 212 aint so bad', but you do a real world overclock on a real world CPU and the difference becomes massive.
> 
> I'm not saying test 1.55v on a 4960x, but at least test an i7 at [email protected] These hardware reviews really need to be _more voltage_ than real world usage, not less, to fully push this stuff and exaggerate the differences, not less.
> 
> The GPU test that TH did is at least useful and relevant, and it's exactly consistent with everything I stated.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> While iv'e heard CLU can dry i'm wondering if extreme temp is what causes it. I just pulled apart my 9 month old 3570k de-lid & the CLU was still very liquid. On the other hand the CLU between the nickel block & IHS was a different story. It looked like the CLU had absorbed into the crappy soft copper of the IHS, but what was on the nickel block was still pretty fluid.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think CLU is a mix of liquid (gallium likely) and solids suspending in the solution. I've had tubes dry out and like I couldn't push it all out because all the solids just clump up at the end of the tube. I think it does stain in a bit and that's where some of the liquid goes, but that's also how it gets such a solid contact and works so well.
> 
> You can find hegrease right now on PFPC (or xoxide? one of those sites...) for $1.99 for a 1g tube, which is basically a lifetime supply for most users. There's just no excuse to be using something as crappy as MX-4 or AS5 when you can get the best ceramique in the world _for only $2_.
> 
> And CLU for $15, I mean that's literally the best value in cooling anywhere in the world, no where else will $15 go so far and give you such a temp drop. It's just silly for people with $300 cpus, $500 custom loops, etc, to cheap out on thermal paste.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> As long as the die that CLU is being applied to is glass there should be no issues. Personally when I moved away from CLU I moved to MX-4 and quite honestly the temp differences are ~1C not significant enough to deal with re applying CLU when it dries out and repolishing the block.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What was it being used on and the overclock? If you only saw a 1C difference that sounds more like just not really needing a high end thermal paste in the first place rather then CLU being bad or MX-4 being good. If you run stock clocks or a low overclock then there's no point in getting different paste.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Proof of these claims you make? I see a lot of assumptions but no actual evidence to support your claims. I dont see any difference beyond 2c between the pastes i have used,that includes MX2 and Gelid Extreme. This is with a pair 4.1 westmere hexacore at 1.33v. Not the coolest running chips in the world and i see nothing to support this _exaggeration_ of temp differences with an overclock. And certainly not in the 9-12c bracket as you claim.
> 
> If that fluid is Pastel and you bought into the nanofluid rubbish...then boy are you in for a shock....
> If performance is what you are interested in then why are you dumping that junk in to your loop?
> 
> Even the delid club dont recommend the use of CLU or CLP as a block/CPU material.
Click to expand...

Performance is NOT what I am after, I am after aesthetics.

If you are running a higher temp, you see more dramatic differences. An example is any heatsink or TIM review of idle vs load temps, or that TH review of GPU vs CPU. I dont know if you are being facetious or not but I think you are joking.

When on water, temps are so low that differences like TIM arent as big. When running in higher temp ranges, differences in heat dissipation performance become larger.

Your being quite hostile so you can have the last word, I do not want to discuss things publicly with someone so hot headed. If you want, I'll PM a response to your last word. I apologize if I have made you upset or said anything to offend you, I believe that discussing disagreements benefits everyone and should be enjoyable, not stressful.

Of course, I'm always the guy to talk politics at the christmas dinner table so thats just who I am









The delid club does recommend CLU, and its obviois on the results table (CLU/CLP averages 20-30c temp drop, ceramiques only 5-15c). I know my temps dropped an additional 15C when I replaced my delid's PK3/PK3 with CLU/CLU, I actually was the loudest anti-CLU for the longest time in the Delid club but I was proven wrong.

$15 for a 2C temp drop is an average gain for $15, 5C is amazing, and anything more is pretty much a miracle. Thats huge for just changing TIM. Again, at lower overclocks or at lower temp ranges, differences really arent as large as in the higher temp ranges, ie custom water is a good 10-20c better then high end air, but on a low oc on low heat, 60C air would only be 50-55C on water.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Neither. I would get the DDC 3.2 PWM.
> 
> The D5 isn't nessessarily the better pump. It is the quieter pump at full speed. DDCs are more powerful and definitely smaller. But @ full speed they are considerably louder. However if you buy the PWM version you can easily control the speed of the pump via a motherboard header or PWM fan controller.


Okay so this is the kit I want on my parts list then correct? EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-RES 140

For clarification, I can control the speed of the pump via the motherboard sys_fan header speed? Does it have to be a PWM header? (I think my only one is the CPU and it would be far away)

Motherboard for this pump will be a MSI Z77 Mpower.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## kkorky

Gotta love this thread...................................


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ~ snip~
> 
> *Performance is NOT what I am after, I am after aesthetics.*
> 
> ~snip~


You can put lipstick on a sow, and polish a turd forever . . . . . . .

It's still just a pig & sxit

You've spammed so many threads with your belligerence I've lost count.

I doubt I'm alone in that sentiment . . . .

Darlene


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can put lipstick on a sow, and polish a turd forever . . . . . . .
> 
> It's still just a pig & sxit
> 
> You've spammed so many threads with your belligerence I've lost count.
> 
> I doubt I'm alone in that sentiment . . . .
> 
> Darlene


LMAO!!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ~ snip~
> 
> *Performance is NOT what I am after, I am after aesthetics.*
> 
> ~snip~
> 
> 
> 
> You can put lipstick on a sow, and polish a turd forever . . . . . . .
> 
> It's still just a pig & sxit
> 
> You've spammed so many threads with your belligerence I've lost count.
> 
> I doubt I'm alone in that sentiment . . . .
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

As long as it no longer looks like a pigturd I'll consider it a resounding success. Thanks for your support









It's surprising how much people are unsupportive of modding here. No belligerence here, only others who's getting angry that I want to mod my CLC. It's been done many times in the past, always successfully. I just want to change the tubing, fluid, and add a res. I'm not looking for a huge gain here, this mod is entirely an afterthought, and not the focus of my robotics-centered, DIY themed budget build.

Vote for me on OCN Mod of the Month, I will definitely win with my modded build with custom acrylic work, an automated side panel, and LCD voltmeters run off a customized small form factor UPS.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay so this is the kit I want on my parts list then correct? EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-RES 140
> 
> For clarification, I can control the speed of the pump via the motherboard sys_fan header speed? Does it have to be a PWM header? (I think my only one is the CPU and it would be far away)
> 
> Motherboard for this pump will be a MSI Z77 Mpower.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


That is the one I would buy. It would have to be a real PWM header. You'd also need to make sure that Speedfan works w/ your motherboard OR your motherboard comes w/ software that allows you to control the fan speeds yourself.


----------



## skupples




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can put lipstick on a sow, and polish a turd forever . . . . . . .
> 
> It's still just a pig & sxit
> 
> You've spammed so many threads with your belligerence I've lost count.
> 
> *I doubt I'm alone in that sentiment . . . .*
> 
> Darlene


This.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> As long as it no longer looks like a pigturd I'll consider it a resounding success. Thanks for your support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's surprising how much people are unsupportive of modding here. No belligerence here, only others who's getting angry that I want to mod my CLC. It's been done many times in the past, always successfully. I just want to change the tubing, fluid, and add a res. I'm not looking for a huge gain here, this mod is entirely an afterthought, and not the focus of my robotics-centered, DIY themed budget build.
> 
> Vote for me on OCN Mod of the Month, I will definitely win with my modded build with custom acrylic work, an automated side panel, and LCD voltmeters run off a customized small form factor UPS.


Seriously, don't try to force feed your opinion as fact. You have something to share, share! No need to convince everyone your opinions are the ten commandments.

Having a CLS is not a bad thing. Modding a CLS is not a bad thing as well. But you're trying to build a custom loop around a CLS. Here's where you'll get a some opinions. A CLS is meant to be a budget and/or easy way to get into liquid cooling. Now, once you start throwing more money at it, a reasonable person (like those provided constructive criticism) will tell you to invest your money in something better and flexible (ie a custom loop). Its like trying to buy every bolt on rice-mod for a Honda Civic when you can clearly step up to a nice sports car (and go from there). If you're trying for a "push a CLS" to the max, cool. Say so, and most will move on knowing that's your mission. IF you're goal is get a great wc setup, then take our advise and move one from modding the CLS. My


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ~ snip~
> 
> *Performance is NOT what I am after, I am after aesthetics.*
> 
> ~snip~
> 
> 
> 
> You can put lipstick on a sow, and polish a turd forever . . . . . . .
> 
> It's still just a pig & sxit
> 
> You've spammed so many threads with your belligerence I've lost count.
> 
> I doubt I'm alone in that sentiment . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As long as it no longer looks like a pigturd I'll consider it a resounding success. Thanks for your support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's surprising how much people are unsupportive of modding here. No belligerence here, only others who's getting angry that I want to mod my CLC. It's been done many times in the past, always successfully. I just want to change the tubing, fluid, and add a res. I'm not looking for a huge gain here, this mod is entirely an afterthought, and not the focus of *my robotics-centered*, DIY themed budget build.
> 
> Vote for me on OCN Mod of the Month, I will definitely win with my modded build with custom acrylic work, *an automated side panel*, and LCD voltmeters run off a customized small form factor UPS.
Click to expand...

Have you got a link to some more details on that "automated side panel" on this robotics centered build?

A link to a video maybe showing how it works?

I've got kind of a "thing" for large remote controlled gull wing side windows









Darlene


----------



## stickg1

This what I need to finish and be up and running..



$245 spent
$220 to finish

I'll be over budget $65, oh well, it's the holidays!

This is what I have coming already:

Koolance 360 CPU
Koolance R9 290X full cover
Swiftech 240mm
Watercool 120mm HTSF
2x Koolance QD4 Quick-disconnects m/f pair (might not even use them but always wanted a pair!)

I might need some more rad power but last time when I built in this Arc Midi R2 I felt a little cramped, I'm going to try better space management this time around.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> This what I need to finish be up and running..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have coming already:
> 
> Koolance 360 CPU
> Koolance R9 290X full cover
> Swiftech 240mm
> Watercool 120mm HTSF
> 2x Koolance QD4 Quick-disconnects m/f pair (might not even use them but always wanted a pair!)
> 
> I might need some more rad power but last time when I built in this Arc Midi R2 I felt a little cramped, I'm going to try better space management this time around.


Sweet! You're a lot closer than I am. Waiting on payday Friday so I can blow tons of cash to finish mine! I'm curious to see how the Primoflex pearl tubing turns out. I was thinking of getting the pearl green, but I'm going the acrylic route now. I have a heat gun ready to melt somthing! Ideas change so often..


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have you got a link to some more details on that "automated side panel" on this robotics centered build?
> 
> A link to a video maybe showing how it works?
> 
> I've got kind of a "thing" for large remote controlled gull wing side windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I can second this. I love your Limo remote controlled side door!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can put lipstick on a sow, and polish a turd forever . . . . . . .
> 
> It's still just a pig & sxit
> 
> You've spammed so many threads with your belligerence I've lost count.
> 
> *I doubt I'm alone in that sentiment . . . .*
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> This.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> As long as it no longer looks like a pigturd I'll consider it a resounding success. Thanks for your support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's surprising how much people are unsupportive of modding here. No belligerence here, only others who's getting angry that I want to mod my CLC. It's been done many times in the past, always successfully. I just want to change the tubing, fluid, and add a res. I'm not looking for a huge gain here, this mod is entirely an afterthought, and not the focus of my robotics-centered, DIY themed budget build.
> 
> Vote for me on OCN Mod of the Month, I will definitely win with my modded build with custom acrylic work, an automated side panel, and LCD voltmeters run off a customized small form factor UPS.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Seriously, don't try to force feed your opinion as fact. You have something to share, share! No need to convince everyone your opinions are the ten commandments.
> 
> Having a CLS is not a bad thing. Modding a CLS is not a bad thing as well. But you're trying to build a custom loop around a CLS. Here's where you'll get a some opinions. A CLS is meant to be a budget and/or easy way to get into liquid cooling. Now, once you start throwing more money at it, a reasonable person (like those provided constructive criticism) will tell you to invest your money in something better and flexible (ie a custom loop). Its like trying to buy every bolt on rice-mod for a Honda Civic when you can clearly step up to a nice sports car (and go from there). If you're trying for a "push a CLS" to the max, cool. Say so, and most will move on knowing that's your mission. IF you're goal is get a great wc setup, then take our advise and move one from modding the CLS. My
Click to expand...

I'm really just replacing the tubing. You can check my build log in my sig, I actually went ahead and wrapped my tubing with dyed larger tubing. It looks better, sure, but I decided to 'do it right' and just go ahead and replace the tubing.

The res is more of a 'might as well', and since it adds a lot of visual appeal its a no brainer, it went from a small swiftech micro res to a large tube, but thats only $10 more.

I do agree custom loop is better, this is more of a 'this is what you can do on a dime and time' rather than a logical purchasing decision. It's like 'hey get this cheap body kit and your civic can look like a sports car if you're willing to spend a year on it'.

It's more of a proof of concept rather than something everyone should do, I could just buy tubing ($20) and simply stick with the stock fluid, maybe get a $5 dye, and its a simple $25 mod anyone can do. I'm just taking it to an insane extreme with the mayhems and huge res because this build is meant to win mod of the month.

None of the MOTM builds are necessarily recommended for everyone to run 24/7, but they look great and a lot of the work done can be applied much cheaper for anyone to do, ie the most expensive compression fittings are not for everyone but maybe moparmans bucket list' acrylic tubing work can be done by anyone using his build log as a reference.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ~ snip~
> 
> *Performance is NOT what I am after, I am after aesthetics.*
> 
> ~snip~
> 
> 
> 
> You can put lipstick on a sow, and polish a turd forever . . . . . . .
> 
> It's still just a pig & sxit
> 
> You've spammed so many threads with your belligerence I've lost count.
> 
> I doubt I'm alone in that sentiment . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As long as it no longer looks like a pigturd I'll consider it a resounding success. Thanks for your support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's surprising how much people are unsupportive of modding here. No belligerence here, only others who's getting angry that I want to mod my CLC. It's been done many times in the past, always successfully. I just want to change the tubing, fluid, and add a res. I'm not looking for a huge gain here, this mod is entirely an afterthought, and not the focus of *my robotics-centered*, DIY themed budget build.
> 
> Vote for me on OCN Mod of the Month, I will definitely win with my modded build with custom acrylic work, *an automated side panel*, and LCD voltmeters run off a customized small form factor UPS.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you got a link to some more details on that "automated side panel" on this robotics centered build?
> 
> A link to a video maybe showing how it works?
> 
> I've got kind of a "thing" for large remote controlled gull wing side windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Check out my threads at the sparkfun forums for more detail. I mention it in my build log a lot, and you can see my servo and arduino in some of my pics (notice it in the lower left corner of some of the pics I posted here).

I have it working right not but I stupidly didnt take video when I had it hooked up, right now I just need to install it, but due to some acrylic work I need to do I cant install it yet (or I could, but not where I ultimately want it). It'll be done within a month, I've already ordered $60 of acrylic and cutting and polishing the acrylic for fit shouldnt take long.

I expect to enter into January's MOTM, as replacing the tubing and the acrylic work is pretty easy. What took forever was the door mod and stuff. If you check my youtube channel or my build log where I posted the video, you can see my side panel opening/closes on it's hinges.

If you want, I can send you the code too. I've integrated the MCU to also use an LCD to display Hwinfo cpu/gpu/vrm temps in realtime with LCD smartie, as well as pull cpu vcore/vrin voltage readings from my mobo vrm (read: not inaccurate firmware mobo voltage readings), so the coding was pretty difficult because I had to use interrupts as the arduino needs to send lcd info nonstop.

Most people who have an automated side panel (read: 2 people) did it using a $120 firgelli linear actuator (something that's meant for pushing hundreds of lb, not ounces lol), but that is the easier route, a side panel on hinges is only about 10oz to push but when you mount it right next to the hinge, it becomes more like 30oz, and you also need to use magnets because side panels actually arent manufactured perfectly at all, they are actually heavily warped and uneven but conventional stock side panel mounting works with screws which basically brute forces it on, so the magnets add another 50oz.

Suffice to say, it took a lot of testing and burned out servos to make this work, but I finally have a mod that only costs $30, and since I did it, anyone can do it with the parts listed and the coding I wrote. It's quite difficult being the first person to do this, but now that I did, everyone can benefit.

'gull wing' would probably be a lot easier to figure out, just put hinges on the top side (inside or out with a little dremel work), and mount a rod to the middle of the panel by the hinge, and a sideways servo. Might need a stronger servo, or even use 2-3x servos, or a linear actuator Linear actuator might be the 'easiest' way to do it since it'll come with all the mounting brackets you'd need to do it. You could really go by the many builds people have done with like gull wing opening cabinets and boxes. I know I've seen it done before many times... I think someone did it using 2 linear actuators on a computer build before, some guy who like combined 2 computer cases for some weird long build, I want to say it was 2 white phantoms...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my threads at the sparkfun forums for more detail. I mention it in my build log a lot, and you can see my servo and arduino in some of my pics (notice it in the lower left corner of some of the pics I posted here).
> 
> I have it working right not but I stupidly didnt take video when I had it hooked up, right now I just need to install it, but due to some acrylic work I need to do I cant install it yet (or I could, but not where I ultimately want it). It'll be done within a month, I've already ordered $60 of acrylic and cutting and polishing the acrylic for fit shouldnt take long.
> 
> I expect to enter into January's MOTM, as replacing the tubing and the acrylic work is pretty easy. What took forever was the door mod and stuff. If you check my youtube channel or my build log where I posted the video, you can see my side panel opening/closes on it's hinges.
> 
> If you want, I can send you the code too. I've integrated the MCU to also use an LCD to display Hwinfo cpu/gpu/vrm temps in realtime with LCD smartie, as well as pull cpu vcore/vrin voltage readings from my mobo vrm (read: not inaccurate firmware mobo voltage readings), so the coding was pretty difficult because I had to use interrupts as the arduino needs to send lcd info nonstop.
> 
> Most people who have an automated side panel (read: 2 people) did it using a $120 firgelli linear actuator (something that's meant for pushing hundreds of lb, not ounces lol), but that is the easier route, a side panel on hinges is only about 10oz to push but when you mount it right next to the hinge, it becomes more like 30oz, and you also need to use magnets because side panels actually arent manufactured perfectly at all, they are actually heavily warped and uneven but conventional stock side panel mounting works with screws which basically brute forces it on, so the magnets add another 50oz.
> 
> Suffice to say, it took a lot of testing and burned out servos to make this work, but I finally have a mod that only costs $30, and since I did it, anyone can do it with the parts listed and the coding I wrote. It's quite difficult being the first person to do this, but now that I did, everyone can benefit.
> 
> 'gull wing' would probably be a lot easier to figure out, just put hinges on the top side (inside or out with a little dremel work), and mount a rod to the middle of the panel by the hinge, and a sideways servo. Might need a stronger servo.You could really go by the many builds people have done with like gull wing opening cabinets and boxes. I know I've seen it done before many times.


Very cool! Can't wait to see the completed product! If you get the chance could you PM me a little more info on how to get all of the temps to display on an LCD mounted to your computer and what exactly I would need to do it? I have always wanted to do something like that and I have a perfect place on my Mountain Mods where I would like the LCD screen.


----------



## Tiger S.

Just put a block on this 780. Ambient in the morning is sick. Upper 30s after many rounds of BF4. I like


----------



## rickyman0319

if I have UV orange tube w/ UV yellow antiknk, shall I buy

4 x LOGISYS Computer CLK12RD 12" Cold Cathode Kit Light ( but shorter) for top, bottom, both side.

or something else.


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys, first WC build here.



Noticed something in my GPU block... there's some black residue that appears to have built up near where the die makes contact with the block... is this going to be an issue?



I thought I did a pretty damn good job of cleaning out my parts before first use... guess I didn't get everything.

I guess the question is, is the build-up significant? And if so, does it warrant disassembling the loop and cleaning it out? My GPU is idling around 20C and hits 35C at full load.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiger S.*
> 
> 
> Just put a block on this 780. Ambient in the morning is sick. Upper 30s after many rounds of BF4. I like


Nice! I love my watercooled 7950's. I don't think I could ever run GPUs on air again!


----------



## phillyd

Could a single 140 Monsta in push/pull handle a 4770k and a 760?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys, first WC build here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noticed something in my GPU block... there's some black residue that appears to have built up near where the die makes contact with the block... is this going to be an issue?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I did a pretty damn good job of cleaning out my parts before first use... guess I didn't get everything.
> 
> I guess the question is, is the build-up significant? And if so, does it warrant disassembling the loop and cleaning it out? My GPU is idling around 20C and hits 35C at full load.


I wouldn't worry about it, that's honestly nothing compared to what others have seen. Your rig looks fantastic and those temperatures are too!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Could a single 140 Monsta in push/pull handle a 4770k and a 760?


That's pushing it if you ask me, even for such a thick rad. I'm inclined to say two 140's.


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hey guys, first WC build here.


Looks great!


----------



## waveaddict

Anyone have any experience with the Black Ice GT Stealth x-flow rads? I Like the in-one end out the other flow.Would make my loop set up easier.Would be using Akasa viper s-flow fans and a EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-RES 140.

Thanks.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Check out my threads at the sparkfun forums for more detail. I mention it in my build log a lot, and you can see my servo and arduino in some of my pics (notice it in the lower left corner of some of the pics I posted here).
> 
> I have it working right not but I stupidly didnt take video when I had it hooked up, right now I just need to install it, but due to some acrylic work I need to do I cant install it yet (or I could, but not where I ultimately want it). It'll be done within a month, I've already ordered $60 of acrylic and cutting and polishing the acrylic for fit shouldnt take long.
> 
> I expect to enter into January's MOTM, as replacing the tubing and the acrylic work is pretty easy. What took forever was the door mod and stuff. If you check my youtube channel or my build log where I posted the video, you can see my side panel opening/closes on it's hinges.
> 
> If you want, I can send you the code too. I've integrated the MCU to also use an LCD to display Hwinfo cpu/gpu/vrm temps in realtime with LCD smartie, as well as pull cpu vcore/vrin voltage readings from my mobo vrm (read: not inaccurate firmware mobo voltage readings), so the coding was pretty difficult because I had to use interrupts as the arduino needs to send lcd info nonstop.
> 
> Most people who have an automated side panel (read: 2 people) did it using a $120 firgelli linear actuator (something that's meant for pushing hundreds of lb, not ounces lol), but that is the easier route, a side panel on hinges is only about 10oz to push but when you mount it right next to the hinge, it becomes more like 30oz, and you also need to use magnets because side panels actually arent manufactured perfectly at all, they are actually heavily warped and uneven but conventional stock side panel mounting works with screws which basically brute forces it on, so the magnets add another 50oz.
> 
> Suffice to say, it took a lot of testing and burned out servos to make this work, but I finally have a mod that only costs $30, and since I did it, anyone can do it with the parts listed and the coding I wrote. It's quite difficult being the first person to do this, but now that I did, everyone can benefit.
> 
> 'gull wing' would probably be a lot easier to figure out, just put hinges on the top side (inside or out with a little dremel work), and mount a rod to the middle of the panel by the hinge, and a sideways servo. Might need a stronger servo, or even use 2-3x servos, or a linear actuator Linear actuator might be the 'easiest' way to do it since it'll come with all the mounting brackets you'd need to do it. You could really go by the many builds people have done with like gull wing opening cabinets and boxes. I know I've seen it done before many times... *I think someone did it using 2 linear actuators on a computer build before, some guy who like combined 2 computer cases for some weird long build, I want to say it was 2 white phantoms*...


Dude...I think you just spoke with her LMAO








Well actually you just quoted her...

Does IT Diva ring a bell?


----------



## skupples

Norpene may look awesome, but it's flexibility in tight spaces makes it an utter pain in the arse.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my threads at the sparkfun forums for more detail. I mention it in my build log a lot, and you can see my servo and arduino in some of my pics (notice it in the lower left corner of some of the pics I posted here).
> 
> I have it working right not but I stupidly didnt take video when I had it hooked up, right now I just need to install it, but due to some acrylic work I need to do I cant install it yet (or I could, but not where I ultimately want it). It'll be done within a month, I've already ordered $60 of acrylic and cutting and polishing the acrylic for fit shouldnt take long.
> 
> I expect to enter into January's MOTM, as replacing the tubing and the acrylic work is pretty easy. What took forever was the door mod and stuff. If you check my youtube channel or my build log where I posted the video, you can see my side panel opening/closes on it's hinges.
> 
> If you want, I can send you the code too. I've integrated the MCU to also use an LCD to display Hwinfo cpu/gpu/vrm temps in realtime with LCD smartie, as well as pull cpu vcore/vrin voltage readings from my mobo vrm (read: not inaccurate firmware mobo voltage readings), so the coding was pretty difficult because I had to use interrupts as the arduino needs to send lcd info nonstop.
> 
> Most people who have an automated side panel (read: 2 people) did it using a $120 firgelli linear actuator (something that's meant for pushing hundreds of lb, not ounces lol), but that is the easier route, a side panel on hinges is only about 10oz to push but when you mount it right next to the hinge, it becomes more like 30oz, and you also need to use magnets because side panels actually arent manufactured perfectly at all, they are actually heavily warped and uneven but conventional stock side panel mounting works with screws which basically brute forces it on, so the magnets add another 50oz.
> 
> Suffice to say, it took a lot of testing and burned out servos to make this work, but I finally have a mod that only costs $30, and since I did it, anyone can do it with the parts listed and the coding I wrote. It's quite difficult being the first person to do this, but now that I did, everyone can benefit.
> 
> 'gull wing' would probably be a lot easier to figure out, just put hinges on the top side (inside or out with a little dremel work), and mount a rod to the middle of the panel by the hinge, and a sideways servo. Might need a stronger servo.You could really go by the many builds people have done with like gull wing opening cabinets and boxes. I know I've seen it done before many times.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very cool! Can't wait to see the completed product! If you get the chance could you PM me a little more info on how to get all of the temps to display on an LCD mounted to your computer and what exactly I would need to do it? I have always wanted to do something like that and I have a perfect place on my Mountain Mods where I would like the LCD screen.
Click to expand...

https://forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=36671&sid=3c2f7601a4e618163ab5d9447f9e9e79

Here's the LCD: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K0unPHVsNA

All you need is an LCD (i used the RGB Negative 20x4 from Adafruit) and an MCU. There's actually a 16x2 kit w/USB Backpack on adafruit, you don't even need a MCU, though no one sells an LCD USB backpack on it's own which is pretty weird (just hack up the cable and make it an internal mobo usb line), but any LCD should work as they all work the same nowadays. Unfortunately none of them are the size of a CD bay OR Floppy bay (I've looked at all, believe me). You have to use an MCU because modern motherboards don't have TTL (unless you want to hack up your DIMM slots, DIMMs actually have a serial TTL but that'd be incredibly complicated to hack into).

The MCU just needs 8 IO pins and ~10K memory (even the micro has more then double that). For voltmeters you need a single analogue pin per voltmeter. You can run off the internal reference voltage for accuracy, or at least the 5v/USB lines, some of the other arduinos actually go more accurate than VREF at ~1.5v or so, but 2.5vref is incredibly accurate as it is. Basically any arduino will work to display to an LCD with more then enough extra pins and memory onboard, the only MCU that might not work is like the adafruit Gemma or trinket and those are like super small $8 MCUs.

Then you just use LCDSmartie to interface, it's got a really easy GUI even though it's from 2007 and never been updated (it's the best only LCD interface program through USB or serial/MCU, but plugins are updated everyday for it, the HWInfo plugin just came out for it). The complications of my mod were simply because of the voltmetering having to be fed and the LCD servo (have to poll for the button being pushed) while LCD is being interfaced constantly at 9600 baud, using interrupts and cntignores.

wow it actually sounds like I know what I'm talking about lol, believe me it took me a lot of help (you think I'm annoying now, try teaching me how to program in C++ with no experience! 'why are you trying to make an lcd work on a pc, omg that's stupid, just buy a TFT and raspberry pi bro, why are you trying to use a voltmeter just pull from software bro').


----------



## skupples

Fin. Excluding wiring.









My camera is distorted or something, that top rail isn't actually bent, & the acrylic is 100% level.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Fin. Excluding wiring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My camera is distorted or something, that top rail isn't actually bent, & the acrylic is 100% level.


Needs mb block









Looks sweet Skups


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Needs mb block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks sweet Skups


thx. Due to incoming family the build MUST end shortly as my office will be serving as a bedroom for the young ones. So, mobo blocks will have to come @ a later date when I move everything over to a case labs. I don't see jumping off of lga-2011 until broadwell-E most likely so this board will be riding with me for awhile.

BTW, EK said 2 weeks, so they should be available in 3! They are coming in all 6 EK flavors.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> thx. Due to incoming family the build MUST end shortly as my office will be serving as a bedroom for the young ones. So, mobo blocks will have to come @ a later date when I move everything over to a case labs. I don't see jumping off of lga-2011 until broadwell-E most likely so this board will be riding with me for awhile.
> 
> BTW, EK said 2 weeks, so they should be available in 3! They are coming in all 6 EK flavors.


Yup, w/ EK eta's, just multiply by 2 or 3








.

I'm waiting on a custom block for my mb. Wouldn't mind getting a BE instead if the block is available sooner. For now, will have to do w/ ram blocks







.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Past 4 pages of quotes is making me type things twice now, read things 3 times, and ask someone to repeat themselves 4 times to me...lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Past 4 pages of quotes is making me type things twice now, read things 3 times, and ask someone to repeat themselves 4 times to me...lol


May be the ocn quote bug. A lot of ppl are getting old and/or multiple repeated quotes when they only meant to quote one person.

Plus, there was a bit of a back and forth regarding tim *and* some "opinions" that weren't universally shared







. Typical stuff, yah know


----------



## skupples

So iv'e noticed allot of people here have used cable extensions instead of doing their own sleeving jobs. Has anyone done this with the EVGA G2 1300w in particular, and or does anyone have any suggestions on what brand would be best to use?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Never had a problem with my bitfenix extensions....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Never had a problem with my bitfenix extensions....


& those are the ones that mate with the stock cable coming off of the PSU correct?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> & those are the ones that mate with the stock cable coming off of the PSU correct?


Correct....Just for the record i have never owned an evga psu only corsair....


----------



## skupples

I went with the Corsair gen 2 sleeved cables for that PSU. I'm assuming from the way it's branded it's a replacement for the stock cable.


----------



## LunaP

Phew! Haven't really been on here much past few days due to finals, only got 3 left due tonight and I'm DONE!!!

Speaking of which thanks to the thread I opened learned a ton and reordered ( HOPEFULLY they're in stock )



Decent price too. Seems more places are getting in stock again, and people are starting to claim false on the Nidec rumors? that or misinformation.

Anywhoo next thing on the list is to debate on the RAD sizes again, yeah I know we went into this, but I need to take another look at some TH10 builds, debating between UT-60's and Monsta's

I like the look of the SR-1's but the problem is that they only have 2 holes and in one area which can work and also not work in a good way. Any other recommendations please do let me know. I'll be installing dual power supplies since apparently nothing over 1300 is gold rated, w/ the exception of the Nexus but people say to stay away from it :\ so can't do much there. Unless anyone here has any input on 1500W + PSU's for Tri SLI rigs.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Reading this thread really makes me want to get started on my first custom loop...

First, though, I need to get my Silverstone SG10 and figure out how I'm going to fit a CPU/GPU loop in there.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Well hopefully the corsair cable are compatiable with other PSU and not just their own....


----------



## Belial

Would it be awkward to use a black chrome XSPC 90* adaptor fitting, a black sparkle bitspower barb, and a black hose clamp?

I really can't find many pics of hose clamps, seems that everyone and their mother uses compression fittings (can't do that due to rad and pump/block having permanent barbs, I would chop the barbs and tap them for a compression fitting but don't think I can do that with the plastic barbs on the pump/block). Can't find any dark gray clamps.

I could go with black fittings/black clamp, but it wouldn't match my res... unless I got a black res. Which I could, but it just isn't as awesome as a dark gray one (because my mobo and sleeving is gray).


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So iv'e noticed allot of people here have used cable extensions instead of doing their own sleeving jobs. Has anyone done this with the EVGA G2 1300w in particular, and or does anyone have any suggestions on what brand would be best to use?


Try poking around this thread. It may answer some questions and convince you to sleeve!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> So iv'e noticed allot of people here have used cable extensions instead of doing their own sleeving jobs. Has anyone done this with the EVGA G2 1300w in particular, and or does anyone have any suggestions on what brand would be best to use?


IMO a non-modular PSU with sleeved extensions is much cleaner, I hate how on modular psu's it's just a huge, ugly mess of cables out the psu instead of just a single, clean line. Extensions also allow you to 'rainbow' the cables, something you can't really do with PSU cables, where the inside line (based on how you connect it) uses shorter wires than the outside so it gets a natural bend.

You can just force the cables to 'rainbow', but it just doesn't quite bend as well as ones that have been worked over:



I don't have a great close-up on my current rig of this but believe me, it's definitely way better and much easier to work with as well.

You need to do it custom to have the rainbow effect, lutro does it but I'd strongly recommend [email protected] he did mine, it came out to ~$45 for him to do mobo/cpu/2xpci-e cables (bear in mind to do it on your own it's $5 pin tool, assuming you have your own custom cable cutter and wire stripper and solderer or crimper, $10-20 in paracord depending on # of colors, $15 in extensions, and like a week of hard labor and burned hands). Honestly I'd really recommend a pro to do it, because doing it yourself takes a long time and just... hurts. You can do it if you do a solid color maybe.

Just ask for them to send you a couple extra feet so you can sleeve your fan connectors, motherboard connectors, etc on your own. I've sleeved my own cables multiple times for my own builds but getting it done professionally allowed me time to focus on my other mods and basically cost me $5 and saved me 2 weeks of grueling labor.

I would recommend Rosewill sleeved extensions for a starting point (if you use extensions instead of making them, just rip off the sleeving on them and chop the inside lines, and recrimp/solder the connections back on). Using crappy extensions like apevias just have crappy wire that don't stay straight, connectors that are a pain to pull out, etc.

Oh, and paracord >>> sleeve, even high quality sleeve like mpdc. It's like someone knitted clothes for each individual cable, and imo a lot more you can do with it, like heatshrinkless sleeving (ugh heatshrinked sleeve jobs are ugly!) and sleeving to motherboard connectors. The only thing it can't do that sleeving does better is big cables, like tubing or USB 3.0 lines.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Never had a problem with my bitfenix extensions....


This







. Love the Alchemy extensions. Silverstone makes some nice looking ones too.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> IMO a non-modular PSU with sleeved extensions is much cleaner, I hate how on modular psu's it's just a huge, ugly mess of cables out the psu instead of just a single, clean line. Extensions also allow you to 'rainbow' the cables, something you can't really do with PSU cables, where the inside line (based on how you connect it) uses shorter wires than the outside so it gets a natural bend.
> 
> You can just force the cables to 'rainbow', but it just doesn't quite bend as well as ones that have been worked over:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a great close-up on my current rig of this but believe me, it's definitely way better and much easier to work with as well.
> 
> You need to do it custom to have the rainbow effect, lutro does it but I'd strongly recommend [email protected] he did mine, it came out to ~$45 for him to do mobo/cpu/2xpci-e cables (bear in mind to do it on your own it's $5 pin tool, assuming you have your own custom cable cutter and wire stripper and solderer or crimper, $10-20 in paracord depending on # of colors, $15 in extensions, and like a week of hard labor and burned hands). Honestly I'd really recommend a pro to do it, because doing it yourself takes a long time and just... hurts. You can do it if you do a solid color maybe.
> 
> Just ask for them to send you a couple extra feet so you can sleeve your fan connectors, motherboard connectors, etc on your own. I've sleeved my own cables multiple times for my own builds but getting it done professionally allowed me time to focus on my other mods and basically cost me $5 and saved me 2 weeks of grueling labor.
> 
> I would recommend Rosewill sleeved extensions for a starting point (if you use extensions instead of making them, just rip off the sleeving on them and chop the inside lines, and recrimp/solder the connections back on). Using crappy extensions like apevias just have crappy wire that don't stay straight, connectors that are a pain to pull out, etc.
> 
> Oh, and paracord >>> sleeve, even high quality sleeve like mpdc. It's like someone knitted clothes for each individual cable, and imo a lot more you can do with it, like heatshrinkless sleeving (ugh heatshrinked sleeve jobs are ugly!) and sleeving to motherboard connectors. The only thing it can't do that sleeving does better is big cables, like tubing or USB 3.0 lines.


Okay, I'm probably not the only one in here who shares this sentiment, but seriously. This is the WC club thread. Its not the take over this thread and ask for help every 5 posts. There is a reason why this is in a *subforum*. That *subforum* allows you to create your own help *thread*, and not clutter up the Club/Gallery thread.

And the reason I quoted this post is because this is the watercooling forums, not the PSU forums (of which Skupples should be asking there too). You've swung this thread far off topic, and have been rude and belligerent to those who are giving their 2 cents on your mod. Look, I'm all for modding, but make your own thread, get help there. Even if my own opinion of your mod thinks it is an absolute waste, that is your mod, and be proud of doing it. But don't treat other members here like crap, act stuck-up, and spam a thread that *is not a help-us-build-your-loop-/-mod* thread.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Try poking around this thread. It may answer some questions and convince you to sleeve!


Iv'e spent plenty of time browsing the sleeving forums, no time atm. I do how ever have an extra set of all of my cables, so I may work on my own grey/black set. I don't have time to leave the beast apart for another month. Build must be finished by the end of December before the families roll in, & really I want it finished by the end of this week. I can go back in later & touch up easy aesthetics here & there.

Both of my units are fully modular. No one will see the mess, as it's in the basement of the tower.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Love the Alchemy extensions. Silverstone makes some nice looking ones too.


+1 for silverstone extensions! Love my red ones


----------



## Pimphare

Hey guys, I don't mean to go too far off topic, but what Dremel model is good for modding a case? I was thinking of picking up a Dremel 3000. I was also looking at the Black & Decker RTX-B. Anyone care to shed some light on this?









Also, is there a specific metal cut-off wheel I need to get? I'll be doing some fabrication work on my Corsair 650D.

Edit: Okay, so I went with the Dremel 3000 rotary tool and added a 5 pack of reinforced cut-off wheels.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So iv'e noticed allot of people here have used cable extensions instead of doing their own sleeving jobs. Has anyone done this with the EVGA G2 1300w in particular, and or does anyone have any suggestions on what brand would be best to use?


Buy from Lutro Customs. he's a member her on OCN and has his own website.

http://lutro0-customs.com/
http://www.overclock.net/f/18034/lutroo-customs

These are by far the best quality extensions I've seen.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Check out my threads at the sparkfun forums for more detail. I mention it in my build log a lot, and you can see my servo and arduino in some of my pics (notice it in the lower left corner of some of the pics I posted here).
> 
> I have it working right not but I stupidly didnt take video when I had it hooked up, right now I just need to install it, but due to some acrylic work I need to do I cant install it yet (or I could, but not where I ultimately want it). It'll be done within a month, I've already ordered $60 of acrylic and cutting and polishing the acrylic for fit shouldnt take long.
> 
> I expect to enter into January's MOTM, as replacing the tubing and the acrylic work is pretty easy. What took forever was the door mod and stuff. If you check my youtube channel or my build log where I posted the video, you can see my side panel opening/closes on it's hinges.
> 
> If you want, I can send you the code too. I've integrated the MCU to also use an LCD to display Hwinfo cpu/gpu/vrm temps in realtime with LCD smartie, as well as pull cpu vcore/vrin voltage readings from my mobo vrm (read: not inaccurate firmware mobo voltage readings), so the coding was pretty difficult because I had to use interrupts as the arduino needs to send lcd info nonstop.
> 
> Most people who have an automated side panel (read: 2 people) did it using a $120 firgelli linear actuator (something that's meant for pushing hundreds of lb, not ounces lol), but that is the easier route, a side panel on hinges is only about 10oz to push but when you mount it right next to the hinge, it becomes more like 30oz, and you also need to use magnets because side panels actually arent manufactured perfectly at all, they are actually heavily warped and uneven but conventional stock side panel mounting works with screws which basically brute forces it on, so the magnets add another 50oz.
> 
> Suffice to say, it took a lot of testing and burned out servos to make this work, but I finally have a mod that only costs $30, and since I did it, anyone can do it with the parts listed and the coding I wrote. It's quite difficult being the first person to do this, but now that I did, everyone can benefit.
> 
> 'gull wing' would probably be a lot easier to figure out, just put hinges on the top side (inside or out with a little dremel work), and mount a rod to the middle of the panel by the hinge, and a sideways servo. Might need a stronger servo, or even use 2-3x servos, or a linear actuator Linear actuator might be the 'easiest' way to do it since it'll come with all the mounting brackets you'd need to do it. You could really go by the many builds people have done with like gull wing opening cabinets and boxes. I know I've seen it done before many times... I think someone did it using 2 linear actuators on a computer build before, some guy who like combined 2 computer cases for some weird long build, I want to say it was 2 white phantoms...


You do know that posting the build on ANY other forum disqualifies you from eligibility in MOTM don't you?

That's what got the last three great builds scratched from this last MOTM. Just thought you should know, just in case you have the log on other forums.


----------



## Belial

Hey, I was reading about making my own reservoir, and saw this on the article:
Quote:


> I became convinced some time ago and still am so that leaktesting with air pressure is a much better way to leaktest than the water "fill and pray" method. I use a simple $13 vacuum gauge for this as it has a large gauge area for the 0-10PSI range. I have a small air compressor to fill the loop, but a simple bicycle pump could be used to do the same thing. I first clamp and pump up the gauge and the T going to/from it to make sure I have no leaks in the actual line that I will attach to the case loop. Once I've confirmed this line isn't leaking, I then attach the line from the compressor hose blow handle, through the vacuum gauge, into the drain valve. I then pump it up to about 9psi which is easily 2-3 times the pressure in the coolant loop, clamp off the pump line, and give it some time. The smallest leak will easily show up on the dial and it's usually very easy to hear the hiss of a leak.
> 
> *TLDR Hook up Tire Gauge and an air pump to loop for leak testing, pump it up to ~9psi, come back a few hours later and make it's same level*


http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/5

Would this cause any potential damage? I'm just a little worried that a crappy little CLC might not be able to handle this pressure testing. I dunno if pumping air would cause it to spin at more than 1500RPM but this is why I'm asking here first.

Sounds pretty genius, he makes a good point (ie why spend thousands on a custom loop and then do a 'fill and pray' check that isn't very thorough or stressful), the article itself is pretty good too.

I think it'd literally be easier to just make my own reservoir then deliberate on which one to buy at the moment... I guess it's really a question of what would look better, which basically amounts to the pre-made caps vs clear acrylic caps.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey, I was reading about making my own reservoir, and saw this on the article:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/5
> 
> Would this cause any potential damage? I'm just a little worried that a crappy little CLC might not be able to handle this pressure testing. I dunno if pumping air would cause it to spin at more than 1500RPM but this is why I'm asking here first.
> 
> Sounds pretty genius, he makes a good point (ie why spend thousands on a custom loop and then do a 'fill and pray' check that isn't very thorough or stressful), the article itself is pretty good too.
> 
> I think it'd literally be easier to just make my own reservoir then deliberate on which one to buy at the moment... I guess it's really a question of what would look better, which basically amounts to the pre-made caps vs clear acrylic caps.


It won't hurt a thing, you aren't pumping air THROUGH the loop, you are just increasing the VOLUME of total air inside the whole loop. Since the air is going into the loop from one point and not exiting (hopefully) it, the air isn't actually causing the motor to spin.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Okay, I'm probably not the only one in here who shares this sentiment, but seriously. This is the WC club thread. Its not the take over this thread and ask for help every 5 posts. There is a reason why this is in a subforum. That subforum allows you to create your own help thread, and not clutter up the Club/Gallery thread.
> 
> And the reason I quoted this post is because this is the watercooling forums, not the PSU forums (of which Skupples should be asking there too). You've swung this thread far off topic, and have been rude and belligerent to those who are giving their 2 cents on your mod. Look, I'm all for modding, but make your own thread, get help there. Even if my own opinion of your mod thinks it is an absolute waste, that is your mod, and be proud of doing it. But *don't treat other members here like crap, act stuck-up,* and spam a thread that is not a help-us-build-your-loop-/-mod thread.


Am I the only person that finds this incredibly ironic and sad? So, am I not good enough to post here? Is this really the attitude to have towards a fellow modder and club member? I'm quite shocked you would treat a fellow OCN member this way. And believe me, this is the last place I posted. I've been asking about this project for over 2 months and have gotten very little help overall. I've posted in over 30 threads about this and have made over 20, about 6 are on this forum alone and 3 in this sub-forum:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



To be more specific, both H50 mod guides were dead and I got no responses in either, the 620 mod thread is dead, the 620 club tried to be helpful but didn't know, the corsair club just had no idea what I was doing (they thought it was cool, but couldnt offer any help), I posted an additive-mixed-metals question thread here and I actually got some good replies, but not really any help there (more off topic but relevant, cool discussion than anything), I posted about modding my clc block and I just got zero replies there (yea modding forums here are pretty dead, the modders seem to not actually hang out there), I got great replies in the PSU forum in regards to forming acrylic (which is somewhat relevant to what I'm doing...), I got no replies in my build log in regards to this mod, I got no help in my 'how much fluid in a clc' thread, i got no replies in my 'how to replace the tubing an add a res' thread, I got no replies in the gigabyte mobo club, i got some great help in the Mayhem's club, I got zero help in my 'how to change tubing' thread, and I got zero help in my build log. There's also an H50/h60/h70/h80/h100 mod club which I did not get any help in either.

I got no (helpful) replies when cross posted to AT (though i got encouragement, which surprised me considering it's AT), I got a lot of help actually at the corsair forum (after posting a ton of times and finally getting traction after making another thread) but now it's kinda dead and well, I really didn't end up taking their advice because I found better advice here (in this club), I got a lot of help at the sparkfun forums but that's a bit irrelevant, not exactly this. I posted on hardocp, PCPER, bit-tech as well, with no responses.

Clubs are much more informal, and people tend to be way more helpful to what will soon be a future member of the club, and people always want to see their favorite product used in a new and exciting way.

So please, before you start telling people they aren't good enough to post in this club, maybe help them out when they post threads asking for help, yea?



You should be ashamed of yourself.

I really appreciate the help of Ravage, Skupples, PhillyD, Jimshans, and a few others.
Quote:


> And the reason I quoted this post is because this is the watercooling forums, not the PSU forums (of which Skupples should be asking there too). You've swung this thread far off topic, and have been rude and belligerent to those who are giving their 2 cents on your mod. Look, I'm all for modding, but make your own thread, get help there. Even if my own opinion of your mod thinks it is an absolute waste, that is your mod, and be proud of doing it. But don't treat other members here like crap, act stuck-up, and spam a thread that is not a help-us-build-your-loop-/-mod thread.


Don't be a memberator. His question was entirely appropriate in an informal club thread, where he was asking for more of an opinion rather than fact, amongst people who do a similar aesthetic mod that he does. If you don't like his post in here, report it.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey, I was reading about making my own reservoir, and saw this on the article:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/5
> 
> Would this cause any potential damage? I'm just a little worried that a crappy little CLC might not be able to handle this pressure testing. I dunno if pumping air would cause it to spin at more than 1500RPM but this is why I'm asking here first.
> 
> Sounds pretty genius, he makes a good point (ie why spend thousands on a custom loop and then do a 'fill and pray' check that isn't very thorough or stressful), the article itself is pretty good too.
> 
> I think it'd literally be easier to just make my own reservoir then deliberate on which one to buy at the moment... I guess it's really a question of what would look better, which basically amounts to the pre-made caps vs clear acrylic caps.
> 
> 
> 
> It won't hurt a thing, you aren't pumping air THROUGH the loop, you are just increasing the VOLUME of total air inside the whole loop. Since the air is going into the loop from one point and not exiting (hopefully) it, the air isn't actually causing the motor to spin.
Click to expand...

Well, if there's a leak it will be exiting another point, I don't want to burn out the motor because my leak test finds a leak :X

But okay, that's helpful. So try to make it good and tight before pumping up, and then I'd just like put the bicycle pump on one part, and then just shut the other end of the tube tight. Thanks, /rep

For the life of me, I cannot find a 'bitspower black sparkle G1/4 1/4ID 90* fitting' anywhere (it exists on their website). I really can't find 90* barb fittings anywhere in black or dark gray, and I certainly cannot find like a 90* rotary in dark gray + 1/4ID dark gray barb sold by the same company.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Well, if there's a leak it will be exiting another point, I don't want to burn out the motor because my leak test finds a leak :X
> 
> But okay, that's helpful. So try to make it good and tight before pumping up, and then I'd just like put the bicycle pump on one part, and then just shut the other end of the tube tight. Thanks, /rep


Dude, to spin the motor that quick, ALL the air would have to forcibly leave the loop WHILE you were still pumping it up to pressure with a compressor, a bicycle pump doesn't provide constant air pressure so it would not be an issue if you blew a fitting, the air would just leave till the pressure was even with atmospheric. That's the only way the motor could be spun at ALL. So unless you are completely incompetent (which from the build logs and questions etc, does NOT appear to be the case) don't worry to much about it.

And IF, by chance you do fry your motor in some way, I'll mail you a couple of clc's that have been in my closet now for a while.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ~ snip~
> 
> *Performance is NOT what I am after, I am after aesthetics.*
> 
> ~snip~
> 
> 
> 
> You can put lipstick on a sow, and polish a turd forever . . . . . . .
> 
> It's still just a pig & sxit
> 
> You've spammed so many threads with your belligerence I've lost count.
> 
> *I doubt I'm alone in that sentiment . . . .
> *
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

You are not alone.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ~ snip~
> 
> *Performance is NOT what I am after, I am after aesthetics.*
> 
> ~snip~
> 
> 
> 
> You can put lipstick on a sow, and polish a turd forever . . . . . . .
> 
> It's still just a pig & sxit
> 
> You've spammed so many threads with your belligerence I've lost count.
> 
> *I doubt I'm alone in that sentiment . . . .
> *
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As long as it no longer looks like a pigturd I'll consider it a resounding success. Thanks for your support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's surprising how much people are unsupportive of modding here. No belligerence here, only others who's getting angry that I want to mod my CLC. It's been done many times in the past, always successfully. I just want to change the tubing, fluid, and add a res. I'm not looking for a huge gain here, this mod is entirely an afterthought, and not the focus of *my robotics-centered*, DIY themed budget build.
> 
> Vote for me on OCN Mod of the Month, I will definitely win with my modded build with custom acrylic work, *an automated side panel*, and LCD voltmeters run off a customized small form factor UPS.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you got a link to some more details on that "automated side panel" on this robotics centered build?
> 
> A link to a video maybe showing how it works?
> 
> I've got kind of a "thing" for large remote controlled gull wing side windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Check out my threads at the sparkfun forums for more detail. I mention it in my build log a lot, and you can see my servo and arduino in some of my pics (notice it in the lower left corner of some of the pics I posted here).
> 
> I have it working right not but I stupidly didnt take video when I had it hooked up, right now I just need to install it, but due to some acrylic work I need to do I cant install it yet (or I could, but not where I ultimately want it). It'll be done within a month, I've already ordered $60 of acrylic and cutting and polishing the acrylic for fit shouldnt take long.
> 
> I expect to enter into January's MOTM, as replacing the tubing and the acrylic work is pretty easy. What took forever was the door mod and stuff. If you check my youtube channel or my build log where I posted the video, you can see my side panel opening/closes on it's hinges.
> 
> If you want, I can send you the code too. I've integrated the MCU to also use an LCD to display Hwinfo cpu/gpu/vrm temps in realtime with LCD smartie, as well as pull cpu vcore/vrin voltage readings from my mobo vrm (read: not inaccurate firmware mobo voltage readings), so the coding was pretty difficult because I had to use interrupts as the arduino needs to send lcd info nonstop.
> 
> Most people who have an automated side panel (read: 2 people) did it using a $120 firgelli linear actuator (something that's meant for pushing hundreds of lb, not ounces lol), but that is the easier route, a side panel on hinges is only about 10oz to push but when you mount it right next to the hinge, it becomes more like 30oz, and you also need to use magnets because side panels actually arent manufactured perfectly at all, they are actually heavily warped and uneven but conventional stock side panel mounting works with screws which basically brute forces it on, so the magnets add another 50oz.
> 
> Suffice to say, it took a lot of testing and burned out servos to make this work, but I finally have a mod that only costs $30, and since I did it, anyone can do it with the parts listed and the coding I wrote. It's quite difficult being the first person to do this, but now that I did, everyone can benefit.
> 
> 'gull wing' would probably be a lot easier to figure out, just put hinges on the top side (inside or out with a little dremel work), and mount a rod to the middle of the panel by the hinge, and a sideways servo. Might need a stronger servo, or even use 2-3x servos, or a linear actuator Linear actuator might be the 'easiest' way to do it since it'll come with all the mounting brackets you'd need to do it. You could really go by the many builds people have done with like gull wing opening cabinets and boxes. I know I've seen it done before many times... I think someone did it using 2 linear actuators on a computer build before, some guy who like combined 2 computer cases for some weird long build, I want to say it was 2 white phantoms...
Click to expand...

You have the log on another forum,therefore MOTM is not in your future.
Otherwise I would of had it as few times now.....(I think so anyway)

Now,please....stop. You are beginning to sound like Hokies....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey, I was reading about making my own reservoir, and saw this on the article:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I became convinced some time ago and still am so that leaktesting with air pressure is a much better way to leaktest than the water "fill and pray" method. I use a simple $13 vacuum gauge for this as it has a large gauge area for the 0-10PSI range. I have a small air compressor to fill the loop, but a simple bicycle pump could be used to do the same thing. I first clamp and pump up the gauge and the T going to/from it to make sure I have no leaks in the actual line that I will attach to the case loop. Once I've confirmed this line isn't leaking, I then attach the line from the compressor hose blow handle, through the vacuum gauge, into the drain valve. I then pump it up to about 9psi which is easily 2-3 times the pressure in the coolant loop, clamp off the pump line, and give it some time. The smallest leak will easily show up on the dial and it's usually very easy to hear the hiss of a leak.
> 
> *TLDR Hook up Tire Gauge and an air pump to loop for leak testing, pump it up to ~9psi, come back a few hours later and make it's same level*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/5
> 
> Would this cause any potential damage? I'm just a little worried that a crappy little CLC might not be able to handle this pressure testing. I dunno if pumping air would cause it to spin at more than 1500RPM but this is why I'm asking here first.
> 
> Sounds pretty genius, he makes a good point (ie why spend thousands on a custom loop and then do a 'fill and pray' check that isn't very thorough or stressful), the article itself is pretty good too.
> 
> I think it'd literally be easier to just make my own reservoir then deliberate on which one to buy at the moment... I guess it's really a question of what would look better, which basically amounts to the pre-made caps vs clear acrylic caps.
Click to expand...

Already detailed that method in this thread,i use it myself and im sure IT DIva also uses it,its a standard plumbing method of testing for domestic and commercial pipework


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey, I was reading about making my own reservoir, and saw this on the article:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/5
> 
> Would this cause any potential damage? I'm just a little worried that a crappy little CLC might not be able to handle this pressure testing. I dunno if pumping air would cause it to spin at more than 1500RPM but this is why I'm asking here first.
> 
> Sounds pretty genius, he makes a good point (ie why spend thousands on a custom loop and then do a 'fill and pray' check that isn't very thorough or stressful), the article itself is pretty good too.
> 
> I think it'd literally be easier to just make my own reservoir then deliberate on which one to buy at the moment... I guess it's really a question of what would look better, which basically amounts to the pre-made caps vs clear acrylic caps.


Does air tight mean water tight? Would air leak out through the bicycle pump? It could work, but I would test it before fully relying on that method.
I'm not sure what fill and pray means, but when I perform in-situ leak tests, there's really no praying involved. The only thing I'm powering is the pump, with my psu out of the way so there's no chance of that getting wet. As long as the other components aren't getting power, they shouldn't take damage from getting wet. I also test new components outside of my case as well.


----------



## kpoeticg

Belial, check out THIS build log. Fatal by MCCSolutions. It's a pretty epic build log. He made a reservoir out of a Bacardi 151 bottle and modded like 3 or 4 Corsair CLC's for all his blocks/pumps

I tried "modding" my own pump once. It was a catastrophe...


----------



## Belial

^ Thanks, checking it out. I'm trying really hard to think of a cool custom res. I've come up with 2 cool things:

1. 120/140mm fan mounted res, just like a small square, basically fan-profile shaped, or make it a cylinder for looks (someone did that on asus forum)
2. basically, a rad of a reservoir. Like a 360x25mm long res, just mount it on the top of the case. I think that'd be pretty awesome. Unfortunately it'd be kinda hidden, so not much for aesthetics.

I'm going to build my next case, I'd like to make the case a reservoir itself, just not sure how to do it in an exciting way. That's a long ways from now though, i tend to get way ahead of myself...

Anyways, going to take me a while to check out that build log, but from what I've seen that is an epic build (sans the messy tubing and wiring, easily addressed though). That's definitely MOTM worthy of a build - original, mod heavy, lots of aesthetics and customization.

I see he has some compression fittings in some places, but he can't use it on every spot with the CLC mod... hm, that was something I decided against doing because of the inconsistency, but man this build log is right up my alley for what I need... thanks so much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Well, if there's a leak it will be exiting another point, I don't want to burn out the motor because my leak test finds a leak :X
> 
> But okay, that's helpful. So try to make it good and tight before pumping up, and then I'd just like put the bicycle pump on one part, and then just shut the other end of the tube tight. Thanks, /rep
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, to spin the motor that quick, ALL the air would have to forcibly leave the loop WHILE you were still pumping it up to pressure with a compressor, a bicycle pump doesn't provide constant air pressure so it would not be an issue if you blew a fitting, the air would just leave till the pressure was even with atmospheric. That's the only way the motor could be spun at ALL. So unless you are completely incompetent (which from the build logs and questions etc, does NOT appear to be the case) don't worry to much about it.
> 
> And IF, by chance you do fry your motor in some way, I'll mail you a couple of clc's that have been in my closet now for a while.
Click to expand...

Well like I'd think that maybe it isn't totally tight, and I go to push down on the bike pump, and all that air just goes straight out. I'll just make sure it's tight enough at least by blowing into the tubes, and then pump with the bike pump.
Quote:


> You have the log on another forum,therefore MOTM is not in your future.
> Otherwise I would of had it as few times now.....(I think so anyway)
> 
> Now,please....stop. You are beginning to sound like Hokies....


I do not have the log on another forum. I have asked _questions_ on another forum.








Quote:


> Already detailed that method in this thread,i use it myself and im sure IT DIva also uses it,its a standard plumbing method of testing for domestic and commercial pipework


You couldn't perchance link it so I knew which of the 55,500 posts it was, would you? /rep


----------



## fast_fate

Belial - I'm going to throw my







at you.







- sorry every one else








I've had enough of you spamming this thread with your plans, theories and comments.
As you have made your own threads - as you should have - and nobody cared to comment....as you stated
Maybe nobody really cares.
If nobody replies in my thread or comments in my build logs I get the message.
That being it's not interesting.
and that is how your posts have become.
I don't even bother reading them - just wish half of each page didn't have your name in the left hand column.


----------



## Belial

hey simple question - can I have 2 inlets/outlets on a reservoir for 2 _different_ loops? Would that work?

Because I can imagine a pump working just fine if you like... had 2 different pumps sucking water from the ocean. So why wouldn't it work on a res. The reason I ask is because my gpu h60 loop will literally be an inch away from the 2 unused outlets on my current res of choice, it would just be super easy to do. I mean it would only boost performance of for a singular unit because it's more fluid overall, right?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> hey simple question - can I have 2 inlets/outlets on a reservoir for 2 _different_ loops? Would that work?
> 
> Because I can imagine a pump working just fine if you like... had 2 different pumps sucking water from the ocean. So why wouldn't it work on a res. The reason I ask is because my gpu h60 loop will literally be an inch away from the 2 unused outlets on my current res of choice, it would just be super easy to do. I mean it would only boost performance of for a singular unit because it's more fluid overall, right?


I can imagine that would be a challenge to bleed. You have 2 high speed pumps sharing a reservoir. I can imagine it working but with a really TALL reservoir to be manageable.


----------



## Belial

I've having difficulty understanding your post, what does the pump speed have to do with it (i would have 2 low speed pumps, the h60 2013 and h110). What does the reservoir size/height have to do with it?

I'd have it set up like, H110 inlet at top, outlet at bottom. H60 inlet/outlet all on bottom.

/rep, thanks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I can imagine that would be a challenge to bleed. You have 2 high speed pumps sharing a reservoir. I can imagine it working but with a really TALL reservoir to be manageable.


I think Belial is doing a modded H60 loop, so I'm assuming the thought of doing two loops from a single res might be doing a dual CLC which typically have very slow / weak pumps. I'm not totally sure whether it would work or not but just thinking about it I don't know of any reason why you couldn't just fill one loop first, get it bled and the res pretty much topped off, then do the same for the other.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not totally sure whether it would work or not but just thinking about it I don't know of any reason why you couldn't just fill one loop first, get it bled and the res pretty much topped off, then do the same for the other.


DOH! For some reason I was thinking both pumps are on - hence I said that.

Yours makes more sense, anyhow...

Carry on!


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I've having difficulty understanding your post, what does the pump speed have to do with it (i would have 2 low speed pumps, the h60 2013 and h110). What does the reservoir size/height have to do with it?
> 
> I'd have it set up like, H110 inlet at top, outlet at bottom. H60 inlet/outlet all on bottom.
> 
> /rep, thanks.


It would work with the 2 pumps but having a pump higher than your res is going to be a PITA to get water to the pump (really impractical). Once filled up it would work though. Do you have a tube from the top inlet that goes under the water level? Without the tube it will sound like a someone is taking a piss in your computer ( from the water splashing), unless the res is totally full.


----------



## IT Diva

Getting back to the topic of watercooling and pictures;

Thought I'd post some on how I did the external rear rad for the Stretch build.

The goal is to be able to run totally passive for light tasks, and have the pumps ramp up, and then fans turn on and ramp up as delta t increases.

Rear mounted rads don't usually have much appeal for me, but I needed the square inches of rad space, so I went to considerable effort to make it look as aesthetically acceptable as possible, as securely attached as possible without undue stresses on the back chassis panel, all while being completely modular.

Here's what I came up with:

Determining the line for the pass thrus:



Made up an acrylic trim panel sandwich assembly to mount the pass thrus through the raised portion of the chassis panel mesh:



An acrylic piece on both sides of the mesh, with an acetate liner to keep the mesh pattern from transferring to the acrylic:



Here's the rad assembly attached with Koolance brackets locked in and the QD's connected. The fan electrical connections just plug up as well, making the entire rad easy enough to remove until it's ready to be installed for operation:

]

And a look from the opposite side:



Thanks for looking,

Darlene


----------



## Jeemil89

Looks beautiful and rigid


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are not alone.
> 
> You have the log on another forum,therefore MOTM is not in your future.
> Otherwise I would of had it as few times now.....(I think so anyway)
> 
> *Now,please....stop. You are beginning to sound like Hokies....*
> Already detailed that method in this thread,i use it myself and im sure IT DIva also uses it,its a standard plumbing method of testing for domestic and commercial pipework


You definitely would have had all of my votes had you been allowed

No respect...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Belial - I'm going to throw my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - sorry every one else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had enough of you spamming this thread with your plans, theories and comments.
> As you have made your own threads - as you should have - and nobody cared to comment....as you stated
> Maybe nobody really cares.
> If nobody replies in my thread or comments in my build logs I get the message.
> That being it's not interesting.
> and that is how your posts have become.
> I don't even bother reading them - just wish half of each page didn't have your name in the left hand column.


Simple fix for that. Click the arrow next to his username, then "block member". He has joined another user on my blocked list now. Makes the thread my more inviting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Getting back to the topic of watercooling and pictures;
> 
> Thought I'd post some on how I did the external rear rad for the Stretch build.
> 
> The goal is to be able to run totally passive for light tasks, and have the pumps ramp up, and then fans turn on and ramp up as delta t increases.
> 
> Rear mounted rads don't usually have much appeal for me, but I needed the square inches of rad space, so I went to considerable effort to make it look as aesthetically acceptable as possible, as securely attached as possible without undue stresses on the back chassis panel, all while being completely modular.
> 
> Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Determining the line for the pass thrus:
> 
> 
> 
> Made up an acrylic trim panel sandwich assembly to mount the pass thrus through the raised portion of the chassis panel mesh:
> 
> 
> 
> An acrylic piece on both sides of the mesh, with an acetate liner to keep the mesh pattern from transferring to the acrylic:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the rad assembly attached with Koolance brackets locked in and the QD's connected. The fan electrical connections just plug up as well, making the entire rad easy enough to remove until it's ready to be installed for operation:
> 
> ]
> 
> And a look from the opposite side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Darlene


I get a little puddle of drool on my desk every time I see that build.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Buy from Lutro Customs. he's a member her on OCN and has his own website.
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/
> http://www.overclock.net/f/18034/lutroo-customs
> 
> These are by far the best quality extensions I've seen.


I'll probably go with his paracord when I start in on my own. it didn't look like he carried much of a pre-built stock.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'll probably go with his paracord when I start in on my own. it didn't look like he carried much of a pre-built stock.


I think he mostly builds to order. Meaning you tell him exactly what you want(colors, length, etc), he makes it, then ships it.

Personally, I prefer the plastic TEC style of sleeve more than paracord. More specifically, MDPC-x sleeve. Amazing quality. I have a hard time finding anything of similar quality. Might get some samples from Lutro0. I've used cheap nylon sleeve similar to paracord in the past and didn't much care for it. I found PET sleeve to be easier to work with too. That all varies person to person though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think he mostly builds to order. Meaning you tell him exactly what you want(colors, length, etc), he makes it, then ships it.
> 
> Personally, I prefer the plastic TEC style of sleeve more than paracord. More specifically, MDPC-x sleeve. Amazing quality. I have a hard time finding anything of similar quality. Might get some samples from Lutro0. I've used cheap nylon sleeve similar to paracord in the past and didn't much care for it. I found PET sleeve to be easier to work with too. That all varies person to person though.


That's what it seems like. His prices plus possible turn around = just teach my self. Thanks to EVGA I have two sets of PSU cables so I can take my time figuring it all out once the build is done & office is no longer a box graveyard.


----------



## morencyam

It's fairly easy once you get the hang of it. The hardest part is just removing the pins. Going heatshrinkless also adds some time and effort too. I don't mind heatshrink as long as it's not going 2 inches up the wire. But as it is with everything, practice makes perfect. I'd say get a roll and some heatshrink just to practice and come up with your own methodology since it's pretty cheap stuff


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Getting back to the topic of watercooling and pictures;
> 
> Thought I'd post some on how I did the external rear rad for the Stretch build.
> 
> The goal is to be able to run totally passive for light tasks, and have the pumps ramp up, and then fans turn on and ramp up as delta t increases.
> 
> Rear mounted rads don't usually have much appeal for me, but I needed the square inches of rad space, so I went to considerable effort to make it look as aesthetically acceptable as possible, as securely attached as possible without undue stresses on the back chassis panel, all while being completely modular.
> 
> Here's what I came up with:
> 
> Determining the line for the pass thrus:
> 
> 
> 
> Made up an acrylic trim panel sandwich assembly to mount the pass thrus through the raised portion of the chassis panel mesh:
> 
> 
> 
> An acrylic piece on both sides of the mesh, with an acetate liner to keep the mesh pattern from transferring to the acrylic:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the rad assembly attached with Koolance brackets locked in and the QD's connected. The fan electrical connections just plug up as well, making the entire rad easy enough to remove until it's ready to be installed for operation:
> 
> ]
> 
> And a look from the opposite side:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Darlene


I'm not sure why you felt the need for that external,you have more than enough rad to run passive.
I like the details but the fact that its there puts me off.
I'm no fan of externals so im a little biased


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Getting back to the topic of watercooling and pictures;
> 
> Thought I'd post some on how I did the external rear rad for the Stretch build.
> 
> The goal is to be able to run totally passive for light tasks, and have the pumps ramp up, and then fans turn on and ramp up as delta t increases.
> 
> Rear mounted rads don't usually have much appeal for me, but I needed the square inches of rad space, so I went to considerable effort to make it look as aesthetically acceptable as possible, as securely attached as possible without undue stresses on the back chassis panel, all while being completely modular.
> 
> Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Determining the line for the pass thrus:
> 
> 
> 
> Made up an acrylic trim panel sandwich assembly to mount the pass thrus through the raised portion of the chassis panel mesh:
> 
> 
> 
> An acrylic piece on both sides of the mesh, with an acetate liner to keep the mesh pattern from transferring to the acrylic:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the rad assembly attached with Koolance brackets locked in and the QD's connected. The fan electrical connections just plug up as well, making the entire rad easy enough to remove until it's ready to be installed for operation:
> 
> ]
> 
> And a look from the opposite side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why you felt the need for that external,you have more than enough rad to run passive.
> I like the details but the fact that its there puts me off.
> I'm no fan of externals so im a little biased
Click to expand...

It wasn't part of the original plan, but I'm kind of OCD for symmetry and equality.

Originally, the lower rad was a dual circuit with the smaller portion, actually about 28% for the CPU / mobo blocks, with the rest for the lower 2 GPU's.

That gave the CPU / mobo only about a 240 sized chunk of rad.

Having the rest for 2 GPU's was probably enough, even though the other 2 GPU's got the entire top 840 all to themselves, but the small portion for the CPU seemed just too inadequate.

A 360 would have been enough dedicated rad for the CPU / mobo, but I needed to convert the lower rad back to a single circuit for the lower 2 GPU's to match the setup for the upper 2 GPU's, and the only way to do that was to buy 2 of the single circuit 240 rads and join them together, yielding back the single circuit end caps I needed for the lower rad.

It would be wonderful if you could buy just the end cap sets, either dual or single circuit, but you can't.

Fortunately, the height sets it below the top of the case, so at least it doesn't stick up all ugly and in your face like.

Darlene


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Holy no spoilers lately









Darlene, I'm loving the build even the level of detail in the external radiator. Keep it up!


----------



## morencyam

I'm real interested to see what your delta temps are with all that radiator space when all is said and done


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Holy no spoilers lately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene, I'm loving the build even the level of detail in the external radiator. Keep it up!


Im on my phone which makes it a PITA to spoiler...when im home i will edit.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im on my phone which makes it a PITA to spoiler...when im home i will edit.


No not a big deal man







I'm not bothered by it, just surprised haha


----------



## wermad

I'm with B, not a big fan of external mounted rads but Dar has done a great job.


----------



## stickg1

I want to order more parts now and start putting everything together but the more responsible side of me knows I should wait a few weeks.

Sigh, pump, res, tubing, and fittings. The items I plan to use total to $220. I'll go over it tonight again, if I can get that figure below $190 I might just go for it now. Then I can play with it over the holidays.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I want to order more parts now and start putting everything together but the more responsible side of me knows I should wait a few weeks.
> 
> Sigh, pump, res, tubing, and fittings. The items I plan to use total to $220. I'll go over it tonight again, if I can get that figure below $190 I might just go for it now. Then I can play with it over the holidays.


You might be able to find some good deals in the Marketplace. I've bought some used stuff there and it's always been good prices for quality parts. Everyone that sells there tends to take pretty good care of their hardware


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Getting back to the topic of watercooling and pictures;
> 
> Thought I'd post some on how I did the external rear rad for the Stretch build.
> 
> And a look from the opposite side:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> That looks amazing! Now where's the nuclear reactor that you're going to be cooling this with?


----------



## stickg1

I bought all the rads and blocks in the marketplace. I've been checking a few times a day and made a wanted ad. I think my needs at this point are too specific. Unless I want to wait it out for something to come up, I might be better off ordering new.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> It would work with the 2 pumps but having a pump higher than your res is going to be a PITA to get water to the pump (really impractical). Once filled up it would work though. Do you have a tube from the top inlet that goes under the water level? Without the tube it will sound like a someone is taking a piss in your computer ( from the water splashing), unless the res is totally full.


No, the pumps would be fine. The water level on the res would be above both pumps. There would be no tube that goes under the water level, I was told that the water splash effect I drew really wouldn't be loud or noticeable.

Something like this:


I hope that's clear to understand, I'd likely just raise the res and still have that waterfall affect (or not, who knows when I start working with it what turns out best), but just to make it clear that the water level is above pump. So I didn't have to redraw everything, just raised water level instead of raising res.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys here are a couple pics of where I'm at right now. I'm going to be running two Alphacool 7950 blocks and a Heatkiller 7970 block so I can't connect the Heatkiller and Alphacool blocks with GPU connectors so I am going to have interesting dual loops. Here is my plan:
GPU Loop: Res > MCP655 > MCP655 > Alphacool Monsta 240mm Radiator > Alphacool 7950 v2 > Alphacool 7950 v2 > Swiftech MCR320 360mm Radiator > Res
CPU Loop: Res > MCP655 > Alphacool UT60 280mm Radiator > CPU > Heatkiller 79x0 > Res



and here is the loop as it stands. Took the pics in front of the Christmas Tree to spread some holiday love!



Just waiting for the Heatkiller 79x0, Alphacool v2 7950 Backplates, Fujipoly Extreme 1.0mm and 0.5mm thermal pads, EK Monarch RAM modules, and Bitspower X-Station Dual PSU Adapter to come.



Here you see my MSI TFIII 7950 v276 with 7950 PCB, MSI TFIII 7950 v277 w/ 7970 PCB, my Sapphire Dual-X 7950 w/ 7950 PCB, and my G.Skill Ripjaws X 2133Mhz RAM naked and ready for the EK Monarch RAM Modules.


----------



## wermad

^^^^ Loop order don't matter









Stuff came in! And yes, BP ram plates do line up with EK ram blocks! These ram blocks are designed for Dominators so they should all lineup


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^ Loop order don't matter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff came in! And yes, BP ram plates do line up with EK ram blocks! These ram blocks are designed for Dominators so they should all lineup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice stuffs! I am just routing my loop like that to make it as neat as possible. With three MCP655s I won't have any problem with flow









lulz overkill galore!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Nice stuffs! I am just routing my loop like that to make it as neat as possible. With three MCP655s I won't have any problem with flow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz overkill galore!


One 35x for me and my loop is still growing







. Hoping to get the BP plates on tonight and start dry test fitting the loop. Mobo block is still pending for now. Plenty of tube and fittings/adapters are ready to plumb that once it comes in.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One 35x for me and my loop is still growing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Hoping to get the BP plates on tonight and start dry test fitting the loop. Mobo block is still pending for now. Plenty of tube and fittings/adapters are ready to plumb that once it comes in.


Let us know how the BP RAM Modules work out for you! I almost bought those, but went with the EK Monarchs instead based on looks and the fact that I will soon be adding an EK Monarch x4 Acetal + Copper RAM Block soon. Sucks that I won't be able to add a copper MOBO block for my MVE. MIPS is out of business and everyone bought all of them. I'm not going to ruin the copper theme with a nickel EK M5E block. Anyways, here are the modules I got for my G.Skill 2133Mhz RAM:



I had a hard time getting the heatspreaders off of the Ripjaws, but eventually got them off












and the block I am going to buy when I purchase my new PSU:


----------



## wermad

I bought the BP plates because ppcs.com was out of stock of the EK plates. By looking at the pics, the BP sit a bit lower then the EK. You won't see the BP logo and i don't mind mixing it up a bit w/ some companies







.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I bought the BP plates because ppcs.com was out of stock of the EK plates. By looking at the pics, the BP sit a bit lower then the EK. You won't see the BP logo and i don't mind mixing it up a bit w/ some companies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Really? When did you order them? I ordered the EK Monarch Modules and a bunch of other stuff from PPC on Monday.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Really? When did you order them? I ordered the EK Monarch Modules and a bunch of other stuff from PPC on Monday.


Previous weekend. Got an email previous monday saying they only had one kit left. I could wait for them to come in and ship out next (this monday). I had them cancel the order and I redid it w/ the BP plates. Had I waited, my order would have arrived next week (ground shipping).


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Previous weekend. Got an email previous monday saying they only had one kit left. I could wait for them to come in and ship out next (this monday). I had them cancel the order and I redid it w/ the BP plates. Had I waited, my order would have arrived next week (ground shipping).


Ahh alright well that makes sense. Can the BP modules use the EK Monarch RAM Block? Is that what you plan on using?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Ahh alright well that makes sense. Can the BP modules use the EK Monarch RAM Block? Is that what you plan on using?


Yes, when you consider these ram blocks are designed for dominator ram, not mattering if its a BP, EK, Alphacool, XSPC, or Mips block. So, naturally, these universal ram plates have to lineup to these blocks using the same specs for dominator ram.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm hoping the heat spreaders on my Kingston Hyper X Blacks come off w/out any issue for when I put my Monarch's on for the waterblock.


----------



## NYMD

How dangerous is it to remove the heatspreaders from various RAM? like a 5% chance you'll damage the chips underneath? I have some red Kingston HyperX (64 GB of it







) that either has to be sold or get a waterblock on it to match the system.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Ahh alright well that makes sense. Can the BP modules use the EK Monarch RAM Block? Is that what you plan on using?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, when you consider these ram blocks are designed for dominator ram, not mattering if its a BP, EK, Alphacool, XSPC, or Mips block. So, naturally, these universal ram plates have to lineup to these blocks using the same specs for dominator ram.
Click to expand...

Didnt get those Sammy ram in the end.....im too lazy to snipe on ebay.
Looks like i wont have to chop the sinks down after all,good to know the dom fins will fit those plates.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'm hoping the heat spreaders on my Kingston Hyper X Blacks come off w/out any issue for when I put my Monarch's on for the waterblock.


Depends on the ram. Iv'e read allot of horror stories of people ripping out modules when pulling the spreaders off.


----------



## wermad

I did one of my vengeance this morning. Have a heat gun or a hair dryer ready to heat up the heatsink and adhesive. For Vengeance, you just have to heat it up, bend the two side clips out the way, remove the top sticker, and the heatsink splits into two. A gentle pry is needed to remove the sticky pad but it came out almost clean.

Obviously, this is for vengeance. I would recommend inspect your ram heatsink and figure a way to remove it if no one has done a guide on yours before. I've seen pics of ppl using flat head screw drivers prying the heatsink. Proceed at your own risk


----------



## NYMD

Fair enough. Might as well sell it and get faster RAM anyway. I bought this when I wasn't so interested in overclocking.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Depends on the ram. Iv'e read allot of horror stories of people ripping out modules when pulling the spreaders off.


If I'm not mistaken, what should be done first is warming up the DIMM's with a hair dryer, but I'm not entirely sure if that's a good idea or not. Most heat spreaders are secured with a weak adhesive, but some older Corsair sticks were known to use a really thick epoxy, so you had to be extremely careful in removing the spreaders.


----------



## SinatraFan

Just put my order for this in with PPCs...



Looking forward to some neat bends.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just put my order for this in with PPCs...
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to some neat bends.


I did too! Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Adrian-E

When disassembling for cleaning and reassembling things like a reservoir with an acrylic plate and an o rig or as another example a GPU block metal plate form the acrylic plate that have also an o ring between them, it seems *(and I might be probably wrong)* that they also have a greasy substance on them possibly for insulation against water leaks .

Is it anywhere that I can buy this from, if I wipe it off?


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just put my order for this in with PPCs...
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to some neat bends.


Yeah did the same as well! Bending here I come... lol


----------



## IT Diva

Just got my order in as well









And on another front,

Reassembly is going smoothly so far . . . .

Opted for a new fully modular NZXT 1200W PSU for the mobo and 2 GPU's, with the modded, front mounted 1000W handling the other 2 GPU's





The back of the mobo panels is painted black because it sits behind this side panel and I thought it would look better:



Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

wooooooooooot. Very Nice!!!!!

Now i just gotta decide between 13 or 16mm


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> wooooooooooot. Very Nice!!!!!
> 
> Now i just gotta decide between 13 or 16mm


I went with the 13 since I'm bending Primochill 1/2" and will most likely stick with that in the future


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> How dangerous is it to remove the heatspreaders from various RAM? like a 5% chance you'll damage the chips underneath? I have some red Kingston HyperX (64 GB of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) that either has to be sold or get a waterblock on it to match the system.


Just look up to see how they are connected. It is actually pretty easy. Use a heatgun to losen the glue and a lot of the times you can actually here it popping off and then wrap the tip of a flat head screw driver in napkins to prevent damage and put the flat head in between the PCB and heatspreader and turn it 90 degrees and it should pop right up.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> How dangerous is it to remove the heatspreaders from various RAM? like a 5% chance you'll damage the chips underneath? I have some red Kingston HyperX (64 GB of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) that either has to be sold or get a waterblock on it to match the system.


Not dangerous at all, just don't use a metal tool to pop them, use something plastic. You should be able to easily google how a specific ram module's heatspreaders get removed, most of them these days are meant to come apart easily (corsair even sells kits for you to swap them around).

A hairdryer/heatgun could help, I guess, imo not necessary, but shouldn't do any damage. RAM is safe up to 80C+ and that's with elelectricity pumping through it (for reference, ~50C is when it's too hot to touch).

Just go slow and work your way around, a lot of the times the thermal adhesive can be on pretty strong.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've been putting off everything fitting/tubing related for my build cuz i was waiting on these & their new acrylic fittings.

Guess now i have to decide.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Just wanted to post a before and after of my Alphacool Nexxos 7950 v2 block before polishing and after polishing. It looks better than when I got it!!
Before

After



EDIT: Aww crap I double posted. Sorry!

Anyways, one block down, one more to go!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Holy moly that's some shiny shine.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Just wanted to post a before and after of my Alphacool Nexxos 7950 v2 block before polishing and after polishing. It looks better than when I got it!!
> Before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Aww crap I double posted. Sorry!
> 
> Anyways, one block down, one more to go!


Beautiful, well done!


----------



## kpoeticg

Hell yeah. That thing looks awesome now!!

What did u use to polish it like that?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just put my order for this in with PPCs...
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to some neat bends.


Almost forgot about this thanks. What's a good amount of tubing length to order? This'll be my first build w/ the TH10 , and I don't going over as its good to have extra in case.


----------



## Fonne

Has you seen this ?

*EK Supremacy Red Harbinger Limited Edition Gold Plated*

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22318/ex-blc-1600/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Red_Harbinger_Limited_Edition_Gold_Plated_EK-Supremacy_-_RH_Gold.html#blank


----------



## skupples

Isn't gold a plate on top of a plate?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yup, and my Copper/Plexi Clean Supremacy is supposed to arrive in the mail today =\

Happens to me everytime LOL. That block looks absolutely SICK tho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Isn't gold a plate on top of a plate?


Pretty sure its gold plated copper.


----------



## skupples

The only thing I like about it are the plated nobs. Wish the copper blocks came with something other than the nickel nobs.


----------



## kpoeticg

You can always heatshrink em. That's probly what i'm gonna do....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Isn't gold a plate on top of a plate?


Yes, normally a Nickel base strike is laid down before gold plating,gold is porous and doesnt plate particularly well on copper,copper also tends to migrate thru gold quite well.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Holy moly that's some shiny shine.


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Beautiful, well done!


and thank you too!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hell yeah. That thing looks awesome now!!
> What did u use to polish it like that?


and a thank you to you also!

I used some thermal paste along with Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish


----------



## ginger_nuts

I know it is







and I am sorry for that B Negative, but I am so proud of my build which has taken nine months to complete


----------



## VSG

Congrats


----------



## wermad

Congrats









Your build budget has now decreased significantly btw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I know it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I am sorry for that B Negative, but I am so proud of my build which has taken nine months to complete


Congratulations!

I have seen those on eBay before,not cheap.......


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> I have seen those on eBay before,not cheap.......












Congratulations!


----------



## kpoeticg

Congrats ginger_nuts!!!!

B NEGATIVE, LOLLL i almost just spit my drink at my laptop


----------



## stickg1

Congrats on the new baby!!

What are you guys using for compression fittings these days? The more I look at them, the more indecisive I get. I was going to get the XSPC's because they are cheap. But are they any good?

I'm looking for 7/16 - 5/8 because that's my preferred size of tube. Plenty of flow, thick walls but not too thick, bends really well and doesn't kink easily. However I could probably go to 1/2-3/4 if I had to.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I know it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I am sorry for that B Negative, but I am so proud of my build which has taken nine months to complete


Congratulations on the new one!! Is baby in NICU? Ours spent the 1st 6 days of life there.



Best gift for the holidays!!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Congrats


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Congrats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your build budget has now decreased significantly btw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> I have seen those on eBay before,not cheap.......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Congrats ginger_nuts!!!!
> 
> B NEGATIVE, LOLLL i almost just spit my drink at my laptop


Thank you to all for the kind words









I better go and get my other children ready for the day.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> I have seen those on eBay before,not cheap.......


Look for the "Best Offer" option























I has two and we're not taking on any more







.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Almost forgot about this thanks. What's a good amount of tubing length to order? This'll be my first build w/ the TH10 , and I don't going over as its good to have extra in case.


McMaster-Carr has 6 foot lengths for less than 4$US each! I bought 60 feet of it lol.http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-hollow-tubing/=pv5yp8


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Congratulations on the new one!! Is baby in NICU? Ours spent the 1st 6 days of life there.
> 
> 
> 
> Best gift for the holidays!!


We were lucky with this one, he came out as blue as Mayhems Dark Blue dye









But after 4.5 Hrs he was released, back with mum.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> We were lucky with this one, he came out as blue as Mayhems Dark Blue dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after 4.5 Hrs he was released, back with mum.


Glad to hear he is back with his mommy!

Again, congratulations!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Didnt get those Sammy ram in the end.....im too lazy to snipe on ebay.
> Looks like i wont have to chop the sinks down after all,good to know the dom fins will fit those plates.


I heard some Samsung users complaining they're a tad too short to the plate to grab. Really tempted to pick up a used set of Vengeance on fleabay but auctions can get out of control for the price. Have to prowl for the buy-it-now ones.

But, I still ask myself "do I really need 32gb of ram????" And then just pull back







.


----------



## pc-illiterate

congrats ginger. watch for leaks...

stick, xspc fittings are fine. i dont know how well primochill tube fits it though.


----------



## Pimphare

Howdy all, I need a little advice with a couple of things. First off, I'm thinking about getting some Noise Blocker eLoop B12-3 or B12-PS. Is the only real advantage of the B12-PS being PWM that it can be controlled via software and optimized settings on your motherboard? Is there something other than a fan controller that I can use for the B12-3's or can they be controlled with speed fan?

Also I want to get another SSD or two for my system. I currently own a Samsung 840 Pro 128gb that I use for my OS. I'd like to get maybe a 256gb Samsung for games and applications. I'd kinda like to stay with the same brand and model so that I can optimize them with the same Magician software. Is there a better(cheaper) alternative like say the Kingston HyperX SSD's like this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-239-046&nm_mc=EMCPB-122013&cm_mmc=EMCPB-122013-_-PB-_-Item-_-20-239-046&et_cid=3802&et_rid=3768634


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I know it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I am sorry for that B Negative, but I am so proud of my build which has taken nine months to complete


Congratulations brother....I think you will notice that this build is far from complete and will growth...Also tends to leak often and spill both from the drain and the fill port.


----------



## skupples

So, EK finally responded to my RMA submission form. Note that I specified COPPER replacements "Hello Robert, we can send out new nickel plates tomorrow, ok?!"







I respond "I chose copper on the RMA form due to the seemingly never ending EK nickel issues, I'm not quite sure how I would mate a copper plate to an already corroded nickel CPU block top" EK: " OK "







ok what? sending out nickel plates for the GPU blocks that i'm just going to sell isn't really an issue, but the entire CPU block needs to be replaced. I was hoping to get all copper, since you know... the RMA form gives you a choice. I can't just simply replace the cold plate on the CPU, that makes no sense.

does anyone know if they send out new O-rings with the replacements plates?


----------



## ccRicers

Speaking of corrosion, I'd like to know if nickel with copper is one of the worst combinations to use without any anti-corrosive additives. Both my rads will have copper fins, and CPU and GPU blocks are all nickel or nickel plated. I have the EK-FC7950 and the Bitspower Z77 ITX mobo block, matching with silver-colored XSPC radiators (they are really aluminum but not part of the flow path).


----------



## NYMD

I mounted the pump on the motherboard tray. I considered the other side but then it was cramped up against the AMS radiator on the front panel. Any reason I shouldn't do this?


----------



## Hefner

Hello folks,

The time has come. My first watercooling build. I just thought I'd give you guys a little overview of my plans since this is my first time.

Hardware:
Compact Splash case
MSI Z87I mobo
i5 4670k
GeIL Black Dragon 2x 4gb CL10 DDR3-2133
Samsung 840 evo 256GB
Silverstone ST45SF-G
Club 3D R9 280x RoyalQueen 3GB

I originally wanted to get a GTX 770 but it's 2GB VRAM held me back. BF4 recommends 3GB and I've heard games are slowly going to push 3gb VRAM. Does this really apply for me though? I use a 120hz monitor and I usually have to tune the settings down a bit to achieve the necessary high framerate. I do this by turning down the AA settings normally. I know AA uses lots of VRAM so I wonder if it really matters if I get 3GB VRAM instead of 2GB.

As for the water cooling:


As you can see I'm going full rigid acrylic. I am planning to use no angled fittings and do the bends myself. The bends will be tight, but I've seen builds with very tight bends so I am not worried about it.

Are the Bitspower enhance multi-link fittings really compression fittings? I am planning to use compression fittings.

Cheers


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Howdy all, I need a little advice with a couple of things. First off, I'm thinking about getting some Noise Blocker eLoop B12-3 or B12-PS. Is the only real advantage of the B12-PS being PWM that it can be controlled via software and optimized settings on your motherboard? Is there something other than a fan controller that I can use for the B12-3's or can they be controlled with speed fan?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Can't Help here
> 
> 
> 
> Also I want to get another SSD or two for my system. I currently own a Samsung 840 Pro 128gb that I use for my OS. I'd like to get maybe a 256gb Samsung for games and applications. I'd kinda like to stay with the same brand and model so that I can optimize them with the same Magician software. Is there a better alternative like say the Kingston HyperX SSD's like this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-239-046&nm_mc=EMCPB-122013&cm_mmc=EMCPB-122013-_-PB-_-Item-_-20-239-046&et_cid=3802&et_rid=3768634


You could definitely control them with speedfan. But the biggest advantage of PWM isn't just software control, it's that you're fan isn't sucking it's power from your motherboard. PWM gets its power directly from your PSU (as long as you wire it correctly) and the mobo just sends a pulse/speed signal on the 4th wire. The B12-3's will be drawing their power directly from the motherboard. It's not a big deal if you're not gonna load up the fan headers, but PWM is always better for mobo headers. No danger of burning out the header

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> I mounted the pump on the motherboard tray. I considered the other side but then it was cramped up against the AMS radiator on the front panel. Any reason I shouldn't do this?





Spoiler: Nice Pics






>






Looks great to me!!!

Only issue you would possibly have that i can see is if your GPU's are too long and interfere with the res. But other than that, no reason not to put it there. Looks great


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You could definitely control them with speedfan. But the biggest advantage of PWM isn't just software control, it's that you're fan isn't sucking it's power from your motherboard. PWM gets its power directly from your PSU (as long as you wire it correctly) and the mobo just sends a pulse/speed signal on the 4th wire. The B12-3's will be drawing their power directly from the motherboard. It's not a big deal if you're not gonna load up the fan headers, but PWM is always better for mobo headers. No danger of burning out the header


Okay so PWM is the way to do. I'll have 9 fans in all on my rads and rear exhaust. I'll have to daisy chain them and figure out how many I will use on each header. I have the MSI Z77 Mpower motherboard so I'll have to see how many fan headers I have also.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Hello folks,
> 
> The time has come. My first watercooling build. I just thought I'd give you guys a little overview of my plans since this is my first time.
> 
> Hardware:
> Compact Splash case
> MSI Z87I mobo
> i5 4670k
> GeIL Black Dragon 2x 4gb CL10 DDR3-2133
> Samsung 840 evo 256GB
> Silverstone ST45SF-G
> Club 3D R9 280x RoyalQueen 3GB
> 
> I originally wanted to get a GTX 770 but it's 2GB VRAM held me back. BF4 recommends 3GB and I've heard games are slowly going to push 3gb VRAM. Does this really apply for me though? I use a 120hz monitor and I usually have to tune the settings down a bit to achieve the necessary high framerate. I do this by turning down the AA settings normally. I know AA uses lots of VRAM so I wonder if it really matters if I get 3GB VRAM instead of 2GB.
> 
> As for the water cooling:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see I'm going full rigid acrylic. I am planning to use no angled fittings and do the bends myself. The bends will be tight, but I've seen builds with very tight bends so I am not worried about it.
> 
> Are the Bitspower enhance multi-link fittings really compression fittings? I am planning to use compression fittings.
> 
> Cheers


Looks pretty nice, what's with the 80mm fan though? Where's that going?


----------



## lowfat

Almost all PWM fans just come w/ a single 4-pin fan connector. At least that has been my experience. I wouldn't really consider having a separate molex an advantage either. The biggest advantage of PWM fans is the wider operational range of the fan. PWM fans can almost always start and run at a lower speed than a voltage controlled fan. With a normal fan controller, when you drop the voltage of the fans, the fan controller runs hotter. With PWM this isn't the case. If you run the fans at a lower speed, they are using less power.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Looks pretty nice, what's with the 80mm fan though? Where's that going?


For replacing the noisy PSU fan


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Has you seen this ?
> 
> *EK Supremacy Red Harbinger Limited Edition Gold Plated*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22318/ex-blc-1600/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Red_Harbinger_Limited_Edition_Gold_Plated_EK-Supremacy_-_RH_Gold.html#blank




and



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Almost all PWM fans just come w/ a single 4-pin fan connector. At least that has been my experience. I wouldn't really consider having a separate molex an advantage either. The biggest advantage of PWM fans is the wider operational range of the fan. PWM fans can almost always start and run at a lower speed than a voltage controlled fan. With a normal fan controller, when you drop the voltage of the fans, the fan controller runs hotter. With PWM this isn't the case. If you run the fans at a lower speed, they are using less power.


You blow my mind with your knowledge! Thank you sir! So spending more money= getting better product. Got it!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> For replacing the noisy PSU fan


Ah okay, and you're sure that waterblock works with your 280x?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ah okay, and you're sure that waterblock works with your 280x?


ek says visually it fits


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Almost all PWM fans just come w/ a single 4-pin fan connector. At least that has been my experience. I wouldn't really consider having a separate molex an advantage either. The biggest advantage of PWM fans is the wider operational range of the fan. PWM fans can almost always start and run at a lower speed than a voltage controlled fan. With a normal fan controller, when you drop the voltage of the fans, the fan controller runs hotter. With PWM this isn't the case. If you run the fans at a lower speed, they are using less power.
> 
> 
> 
> You blow my mind with your knowledge! Thank you sir! So spending more money= getting better product. Got it!
Click to expand...

Sadly that is not always the case in watercooling...


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ah okay, and you're sure that waterblock works with your 280x?


That's what the EK coolingconfigurator told me.

Seems like the multi enhance fittings aren't compression. I cant seem to find primochill ghost/revolver compression fittings on Europeans webshops. How safe are those o-ring rigid acrylic fittings? I'm kind of paranoid.

Anyone knows any European webshops who have those in stock?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Almost all PWM fans just come w/ a single 4-pin fan connector. At least that has been my experience. I wouldn't really consider having a separate molex an advantage either. The biggest advantage of PWM fans is the wider operational range of the fan. PWM fans can almost always start and run at a lower speed than a voltage controlled fan. With a normal fan controller, when you drop the voltage of the fans, the fan controller runs hotter. With PWM this isn't the case. If you run the fans at a lower speed, they are using less power.


Yeah that's true, but he said he's not using a fan controller and wants to use his mobo headers. PWM fans come with just the fan connector cuz any fan header can feed voltage to a single fan. But any decent PWM Splitter is gonna have a Molex for power. For instance, he's running 9 fans he said. With a PWM Splitter powered from a molex, he could use a single mobo fan header for that. No Molex, he could/will have problems


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> That's what the EK coolingconfigurator told me.
> 
> Seems like the multi enhance fittings aren't compression. I cant seem to find primochill ghost/revolver compression fittings on Europeans webshops. How safe are those o-ring rigid acrylic fittings? I'm kind of paranoid.
> 
> Anyone knows any European webshops who have those in stock?


See here to answer most any questions you have about rigid acrylic:

Acrylic pipebending 101
http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101

Most everything you need to know is addressed in the first post, and if you have any questions that's the best place to ask for sure.


----------



## rickyman0319

if the mobo has more than 1 x 4 pin connector, like some mb has 2 or 3 conecctor. can I use 1 of 3 connector for pwm or not.

some mb has 1xcpu, case 2 & 3 are also 4 pin. can I just use case 2 or 3 instead of cpu header or not?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> if the mobo has more than 1 x 4 pin connector, like some mb has 2 or 3 conecctor. can I use 1 of 3 connector for pwm or not.
> 
> some mb has 1xcpu, case 2 & 3 are also 4 pin. can I just use case 2 or 3 instead of cpu header or not?


 Alot of mobo's have 4Pin headers that aren't actually PWM, which makes absolutely no sense since there's such thing as a non-PWM 4th pin. If you have a PWM splitter that gets power from a molex (which is pretty much all pwm splitters) then you can run ALOT of fans off a single header.

To ME that's the biggest advantage of PWM. With PWM control, you're fans are gonna be speed-controlled by the fan header no matter what. No reason to use your fan controllers/mobos extra resources to power it when you don't need to. Just use a molex and go straight to the source


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> if the mobo has more than 1 x 4 pin connector, like some mb has 2 or 3 conecctor. can I use 1 of 3 connector for pwm or not.
> 
> some mb has 1xcpu, case 2 & 3 are also 4 pin. can I just use case 2 or 3 instead of cpu header or not?


Many, if not most, motherboards only have true PWM control on the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT headers (& I believe the CPU_OPT is just a mirror of the CPU_FAN). Usually any other headers on the mobo, even though they may well be 4-pin, are really voltage controlled. If you have PWM fans or a pump or whatnot you want to be able to control, you'll probably want to plug it into the CPU_FAN header.

Consult your mobo manual / support on the manufacturer's website if you want to know for sure what your mobo supports.


----------



## szeged

Ordered the monsoon 13mm acrylic kit and some 100cm sticks of e22 but ppcs was out of bitspower black sparkle acrylic fittings


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly that is not always the case in watercooling...


Well I usually try to go the cheapest route, but don't want to entirely cheap out. I have a Alphacool Nexxxos 360mm Monsta and a ST30 240mm rad. Do you think the NB eLoops are a good buy for these rads? They're aesthetically pleasing nonetheless. Just curious as they are newer what the performance is like.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Ordered the monsoon 13mm acrylic kit and some 100cm sticks of e22 but ppcs was out of bitspower black sparkle acrylic fittings


Now thats a problem, primochill?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah that's true, but he said he's not using a fan controller and wants to use his mobo headers. PWM fans come with just the fan connector cuz any fan header can feed voltage to a single fan. But any decent PWM Splitter is gonna have a Molex for power. For instance, he's running 9 fans he said. With a PWM Splitter powered from a molex, he could use a single mobo fan header for that. No Molex, he could/will have problems


I'm not entirely excluding the idea of using a fan controller if it better suits me. I just haven't figured out where exactly I could place one. I have a Corsair 650D case that I will be modding so that I can install my 360 Monsta in the front. The 5.25 drive bays will be gone. I may fabricate some kind of panel inside so maybe I can install a fan controller internally.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Well I usually try to go the cheapest route, but don't want to entirely cheap out. I have a Alphacool Nexxxos 360mm Monsta and a ST30 240mm rad. Do you think the NB eLoops are a good buy for these rads? They're aesthetically pleasing nonetheless. Just curious as they are newer what the performance is like.


They're good fans.


----------



## Hefner

Damn seems like the Primochill revolver compression fittings aren't for sale in europe. Importing is such a pain.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Alot of mobo's have 4Pin headers that aren't actually PWM, which makes absolutely no sense since there's such thing as a non-PWM 4th pin. If you have a PWM splitter that gets power from a molex (which is pretty much all pwm splitters) then you can run ALOT of fans off a single header.
> 
> To ME that's the biggest advantage of PWM. With PWM control, you're fans are gonna be speed-controlled by the fan header no matter what. No reason to use your fan controllers/mobos extra resources to power it when you don't need to. Just use a molex and go straight to the source


Okay that sounds note worthy. I'll try to figure out what kind of splitter I need to make this happen. If I can get by without a fan controller and maintain performance, then I have achieved my goal. I don't want to cram too much stuff inside of my case if I don't have to.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'm not entirely excluding the idea of using a fan controller if it better suits me. I just haven't figured out where exactly I could place one. I have a Corsair 650D case that I will be modding so that I can install my 360 Monsta in the front. The 5.25 drive bays will be gone. I may fabricate some kind of panel inside so maybe I can install a fan controller internally.


tbh, I've left the idea of fan controlled fans a while back
I found that there is no time to tune the fans based on the pc use ie max at gaming or lower when browsing

PWM sounds great but I chose the opt to downvolted all my fans to 7v,
temps suppose to only be a couple of degrees difference, hopefully


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Not thats a problem, primochill?


I don't like the primos, think they look ugly and cheap.


----------



## pc-illiterate

according to what someone posted here whenever it was, you shouldnt run a pwm fan from a voltage controller. it screws up the fan and its lifecycle.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Well I usually try to go the cheapest route, but don't want to entirely cheap out. I have a Alphacool Nexxxos 360mm Monsta and a ST30 240mm rad. Do you think the NB eLoops are a good buy for these rads? They're aesthetically pleasing nonetheless. Just curious as they are newer what the performance is like.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> They're good fans.


They are good fans, however many have reported they make a 'drone' noise - some saying it almost sounds like the blades are hitting against something - whenever the fan is used in pull on a rad. Turns out Blacknoise is aware of the issue and that the fans weren't really designed to be used in pull. They suggested using a shroud might help with the issue. Here's a couple posts from earlier in this thread with responses from Blacknoise about it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> last week i asked if we can use Noiseblocker e-loops as push and pull here is the offical answer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the e-loop home page:
> 
> When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?
> 
> This is due to aerodynamics, simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessoires) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimised for.
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8
Click to expand...


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I don't like the primos, think they look ugly and cheap.


Yeah I found the ghost one to be dodgy but
I bought the straight knurled one, which is compression . I found that its ok and aesthetically look good

I myself is a BP lover fyi







but the only thing I use left for my (in progress) build is their angled adapter

quality wise Aquacomp is just up there


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> according to what someone posted here whenever it was, you shouldnt run a pwm fan from a voltage controller. it screws up the fan and its lifecycle.


This is true. Voltage control isn't the same as a PWM signal that these fans were designed for and they were also designed for a specific current. Voltage control alters that current in a way that these PWM fans weren't designed for and it can thus cause them to become noisy, shorten their lifespan, or both.


----------



## Pimphare

Couldn't I just get non-pwm fans and wire them up to the 3 speed fan switch on the 650D? I'm not sure what the variable voltage is on each setting. I'll have to see what they are to determine what fans in terms of rpms would be best suited for this if I were to go that route.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

1/2 copper tube finish options:


I thought this was gonna be easy. Now that I think about it, those tight turns on tights spots are gonna kick my Azzzzzzzzzzx.


----------



## pc-illiterate

im too cheap to buy a dmm but im guessing corsair does a 5v-7v-12v on a 3 step controller


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im too cheap to buy a dmm but im guessing corsair does a 5v-7v-12v on a 3 step controller


DMM? Are you talking about a digital multimeter? I have one of them and thought about using it to check the voltage on the switch at all three settings. I'm not sure where to find the exact specs of that switch.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Couldn't I just get non-pwm fans and wire them up to the 3 speed fan switch on the 650D? I'm not sure what the variable voltage is on each setting. I'll have to see what they are to determine what fans in terms of rpms would be best suited for this if I were to go that route.


Yes. Or you can get a fan controller that does not generate heat by dissipating the extra voltage (12v) when you down the knob (like Lamptron CW611 or any other lamptron so far as I known). All others fan controllers suffer from this problem for volt regulated fans. They actually dump heat within your case. And true PWM fan controllers are very rare and usually expensive. I think ItDiva was working on something along these lines a while ago but I lost track of the progress.

Alternatively you can get a good pwm splitter like swiftech with 8 channels powered by molex or sata and use the cpu_fan header.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> according to what someone posted here whenever it was, you shouldnt run a pwm fan from a voltage controller. it screws up the fan and its lifecycle.


I'm pretty sure VC'ing any fan reduces its life cycle. PWM fans are definitely built for PWM control, but you shouldn't have a problem VC'ing them. Most products are put out with a life cycle of many years. Usually by the time that happens, you won't be using anymore anyway.

I look at it the same way as overclocking my cellphones, yes it reduces its life expectancy, but it's meant to last for like 20 years.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Couldn't I just get non-pwm fans and wire them up to the 3 speed fan switch on the 650D? I'm not sure what the variable voltage is on each setting. I'll have to see what they are to determine what fans in terms of rpms would be best suited for this if I were to go that route.


Of course you can. Most fans run between either 3or5v - 12or13v. If it's a switch then you'll have to lower their voltage with cables.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 1/2 copper tube finish options:
> 
> 
> I thought this was gonna be easy. Now that I think about it, those tight turns on tights spots are gonna kick my Azzzzzzzzzzx.


I hope you are using a bending tool. I had to build a reactor 2 years ago which involved many meters of stainless steel and copper tubing and I can't imagine having to bend 1/2" copper in pretty confined spaces such as computer cases.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just put my order for this in with PPCs...
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to some neat bends.


What the.......right after I put a order down earlier this morning on their website. Damn it!!! O well, I have to call them anyway to get the order to process. Yah, for being stationed at different address than my billing address. At least they are being cautious.

Though, which kit to use for primochill tubing?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure VC'ing any fan reduces its life cycle. PWM fans are definitely built for PWM control, but you shouldn't have a problem VC'ing them. Most products are put out with a life cycle of many years. Usually by the time that happens, you won't be using anymore anyway.
> I look at it the same way as overclocking my cellphones, yes it reduces its life expectancy, but it's meant to last for like 20 years.
> 
> Of course you can. Most fans run between either 3or5v - 12or13v. If it's a switch then you'll have to lower their voltage with cables.


This has got my head spinning. So to narrow things down, I'd like to use the cpu fan header for a D5 pump and use the 3 speed fan switch for at least the front 6 rad fans. I'll be using push/pull on the front 360 Monsta. I can always adjust the fan head voltage via bios for the other 3 fans I suppose.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> What the.......right after I put a order down earlier this morning on their website. Damn it!!! O well, I have to call them anyway to get the order to process. Yah, for being stationed at different address than my billing address. At least they are being cautious.
> 
> Though, which kit to use for primochill tubing?


Its the blue one, the 13mm kit

if you are using the primo tubes as well it is, not just the fittings


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure VC'ing any fan reduces its life cycle. PWM fans are definitely built for PWM control, but you shouldn't have a problem VC'ing them. Most products are put out with a life cycle of many years. Usually by the time that happens, you won't be using anymore anyway.
> I look at it the same way as overclocking my cellphones, yes it reduces its life expectancy, but it's meant to last for like 20 years.
> 
> Of course you can. Most fans run between either 3or5v - 12or13v. If it's a switch then you'll have to lower their voltage with cables.
> 
> 
> 
> This has got my head spinning. So to narrow things down, I'd like to use the cpu fan header for a D5 pump and use the 3 speed fan switch for at least the front 6 rad fans. I'll be using push/pull on the front 360 Monsta. I can always adjust the fan head voltage via bios for the other 3 fans I suppose.
Click to expand...

Sorry, i must've misread 3-Speed fan switch for 3-Fan speed switch









You got nothing to lose by trying. Worst case scenario would be overloading the switch and it doesn't work anymore. Sounds like u weren't planning on using it really anyway.

Try wiring your fans to the switch and see what happens. If you have the specs for the switch it would be easier to know

If you wanna run a D5 off a mobo header, i highly recommend a PWM D5. It will already come with a molex connector so don't need to worry about the wiring.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I hope you are using a bending tool. I had to build a reactor 2 years ago which involved many meters of stainless steel and copper tubing and I can't imagine having to bend 1/2" copper in pretty confined spaces such as computer cases.


I'm currently looking into finding a 1/2 tube bender. None available at my local home depot.


----------



## IT Diva

So I got a little further along re-assembling the Stretch Limo, and once I had the internal rads and fans installed and wired, I just could not help myself . . . .

I had to see how well the infinite reflection effect I planned was going to work out in reality.

Daaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn . . .

It came out beyond expectations. . . . . So I had to shot a couple pics to show off a lil'.

The top trim pieces are not snapped down, they are just sitting on top so the top fan LEDs don't overpower the camera.

Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.

Darlene


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm currently looking into finding a 1/2 tube bender. None available at my local home depot.


For copper? Your local plumbing supply store. But a decent hardware store should have what you need to bend 1/2" copper pipe.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> For copper? Your local plumbing supply store. But a decent hardware store should have what you need to bend 1/2" copper pipe.


Yeah, I gotta search the local hardware/ plumbing stores. Something I can return once I'm done lol


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> So I got a little further along re-assembling the Stretch Limo, and once I had the internal rads and fans installed and wired, I just could not help myself . . . .
> 
> I had to see how well the infinite reflection effect I planned was going to work out in reality.
> 
> Daaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn . . .
> 
> It came out beyond expectations. . . . . So I had to shot a couple pics to show off a lil'.
> 
> The top trim pieces are not snapped down, they are just sitting on top so the top fan LEDs don't overpower the camera.
> 
> Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.
> 
> Darlene


There is no emote to convey this.
Simply OUTSTANDING!! Beautiful, jaw is dropped.

Great work Darlene. This would get my vote.









Edit, It reminds me of Resident Evil, hallway to Queens chamber.


----------



## kpoeticg

DaaQ, i'm glad you quoted that with pics. I woulda completely missed that post

That thing's absolutely outstanding. The Light Panel worked out *PERFECTLY*


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I got a little further along re-assembling the Stretch Limo, and once I had the internal rads and fans installed and wired, I just could not help myself . . . .
> 
> I had to see how well the infinite reflection effect I planned was going to work out in reality.
> 
> Daaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn . . .
> 
> It came out beyond expectations. . . . . So I had to shot a couple pics to show off a lil'.
> 
> The top trim pieces are not snapped down, they are just sitting on top so the top fan LEDs don't overpower the camera.
> 
> Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.
> 
> Darlene


OMG, How the ...? What the ...?









That's some seriously wicked mod voodoo eyeball trickery.


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


Wow... that's some wild alien technology you're using there. No other explanation.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sorry, i must've misread 3-Speed fan switch for 3-Fan speed switch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got nothing to lose by trying. Worst case scenario would be overloading the switch and it doesn't work anymore. Sounds like u weren't planning on using it really anyway.
> Try wiring your fans to the switch and see what happens. If you have the specs for the switch it would be easier to know
> 
> If you wanna run a D5 off a mobo header, i highly recommend a PWM D5. It will already come with a molex connector so don't need to worry about the wiring.


I'm going to sit back and absorb all of this for a few. I don't want to keep crowding this thread with all of my noobishness. Thank you sir for your time and invaluable help!


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> So I got a little further along re-assembling the Stretch Limo, and once I had the internal rads and fans installed and wired, I just could not help myself . . . .
> 
> I had to see how well the infinite reflection effect I planned was going to work out in reality.
> 
> Daaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn . . .
> 
> It came out beyond expectations. . . . . So I had to shot a couple pics to show off a lil'.
> 
> The top trim pieces are not snapped down, they are just sitting on top so the top fan LEDs don't overpower the camera.
> 
> Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This... I... wow. Just wow.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Speaking of corrosion, I'd like to know if nickel with copper is one of the worst combinations to use without any anti-corrosive additives. Both my rads will have copper fins, and CPU and GPU blocks are all nickel or nickel plated. I have the EK-FC7950 and the Bitspower Z77 ITX mobo block, matching with silver-colored XSPC radiators (they are really aluminum but not part of the flow path).


Yeah, id like to know if i use a nickel plated cpu block with a copper gpu block along with EKoolant or mayhem's pastel red what will happen(corrosion)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Well, Home Depot's 1/2 copper tube is not 1/2 outer diameter. My fault for not double checking before buying.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Yeah, id like to know if i use a nickel plated cpu block with a copper gpu block along with EKoolant or mayhem's pastel red what will happen(corrosion)


you should be fine. Radiator cores are almost always copper (never nickel) just for the love of god run some anti-corrosion fluid.


----------



## subsven

I'm sure this has been asked before but I've had a had time finding the answer searching: Is the EVGA 780 Ti SC the same reference board as the 780/780 Ti/Titan? Just swapped out my 670 FTW's for a pair of 780 Ti SC's and need to get these babies wet ASAP.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked before but I've had a had time finding the answer searching: Is the EVGA 780 Ti SC the same reference board as the 780/780 Ti/Titan? Just swapped out my 670 FTW's for a pair of 780 Ti SC's and need to get these babies wet ASAP.


780 Ti & 780 Ti SC are the exact same thing with a different bios. They DO NOT share a block with Titan & ref 780.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you should be fine. Radiator cores are almost always copper (never nickel) just for the love of god run some anti-corrosion fluid.


Is Copper Sulfate (Mayhems Biocide Extreme) considered a biocide AND a corrosion inhibitor?

I'm running distilled water + mayhems biocide extreme + mayhems deep red dye. Does this mean I'm lacking anti-corrosion fluid? My CPU and GPU blocks are copper + plexi, radiators are full copper, but I think my res has some nickel... Not sure though.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.
> Darlene


Damn that looks so good. Great work on this Darlene.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm currently looking into finding a 1/2 tube bender. None available at my local home depot.


Look at dedicated plumbing supply stores, the Rigid brand is the best one I've ever used. But it's like 80$US.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Well, Home Depot's 1/2 copper tube is not 1/2 outer diameter. My fault for not double checking before buying.


Copper tubing is called by size of the INSIDE diameter normally.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Is Copper Sulfate (Mayhems Biocide Extreme) considered a biocide AND a corrosion inhibitor?
> 
> I'm running distilled water + mayhems biocide extreme + mayhems deep red dye. Does this mean I'm lacking anti-corrosion fluid? My CPU and GPU blocks are copper + plexi, radiators are full copper, but I think my res has some nickel... Not sure though.


copper sulfate is not an anti-corrosive, it's only a biocide, & a semi-redundant one @ that.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> copper sulfate is not an anti-corrosive, it's only a biocide, & a semi-redundant one @ that.


Uh oh.

I have an EK Supremacy Clean CSQ CPU block (copper and acrylic), and two EK-FC780 GTX Ti blocks (copper and acrylic), primochill LRT, alpha cool XT45 and UT60 full copper rads, and an XSPC Photon 170 res with D5 pump, as well as Bitspower compression fittings.

Am I going to have any issues?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Copper tubing is called by size of the INSIDE diameter normally.


Yep, just checked and ID is 1/2". Now to find a 1/2 OD copper pipe LOL. I'm so close to just using acrylic. For the price of the pipe bender alone I can get a few tubes of acrylic. I kinda wanna try before giving up, but I'm already waaaaay over the budget for my Water Cooling project.


----------



## skupples

I doubt it. Most issues are only had with nickel when not running anti-corrosive.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> So I got a little further along re-assembling the Stretch Limo, and once I had the internal rads and fans installed and wired, I just could not help myself . . . .
> 
> I had to see how well the infinite reflection effect I planned was going to work out in reality.
> 
> Daaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn . . .
> 
> It came out beyond expectations. . . . . So I had to shot a couple pics to show off a lil'.
> 
> The top trim pieces are not snapped down, they are just sitting on top so the top fan LEDs don't overpower the camera.
> 
> Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks bloody AWESOME....


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure VC'ing any fan reduces its life cycle. PWM fans are definitely built for PWM control, but you shouldn't have a problem VC'ing them. Most products are put out with a life cycle of many years. Usually by the time that happens, you won't be using anymore anyway.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> according to what someone posted here whenever it was, you shouldnt run a pwm fan from a voltage controller. it screws up the fan and its lifecycle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is true. Voltage control isn't the same as a PWM signal that these fans were designed for and they were also designed for a specific current. Voltage control alters that current in a way that these PWM fans weren't designed for and it can thus cause them to become noisy, shorten their lifespan, or both.


for what pwm fans cost, i'll do it right. no point in throwing money away


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yep, just checked and ID is 1/2". Now to find a 1/2 OD copper pipe LOL. I'm so close to just using acrylic. For the price of the pipe bender alone I can get a few tubes of acrylic. I kinda wanna try before giving up, but I'm already waaaaay over the budget for my Water Cooling project.


With the newly released Monsoon acrylic kits, and knowing first hand how much maintenance copper tubing needs, I would recommend acrylic to you.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> With the newly released Monsoon acrylic kits, and knowing first hand how much maintenance copper tubing needs, I would recommend acrylic to you.


What is this maintenance you speak of? I'm probably due to polish mine up as they are so dirty thanks to me not using gloves when working with it







.

Also, here comes a crappy pic!




I'm still debating whether to use my last bits of 10mm copper pipe on my 2nd build, or just use some cheap Watts tubing from Home Depot. Will laziness reign supreme? Who knows..


----------



## NostraD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


Amazing results Darlene! I want!
It tends to make me think Storm Trooper.....rows and rows of Storm Troopers!
What can I say? It brings out the StarWars in me


----------



## Shogon

The way IT Diva made it reflect like that is amazing to say the least. Makes me think it just goes on forever







an endless loop of goodies.


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Copper tubing is called by size of the INSIDE diameter normally.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, just checked and ID is 1/2". Now to find a 1/2 OD copper pipe LOL. I'm so close to just using acrylic. For the price of the pipe bender alone I can get a few tubes of acrylic. I kinda wanna try before giving up, but I'm already waaaaay over the budget for my Water Cooling project.
Click to expand...

3/8 copper is 1/2 od

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## fast_fate

Formalities First;

*Big Congrats to you Ginger Nuts*








Most proud /happy moment I remember was welcoming the kids into our world.

Darlene - that infinity effect is simply amaaaazing.
That sure is one _special_ effect









Now back to earth -
Stage one of my humble build is complete and as soon as these pics upload will start leak testing.
Months in the making (on & off) this is first time that everything has been in the case !!! (except some lights which velcro to the ceiling)

I proudly present the Supercharged 351




Spoiler: Different Angles and the PSU side


----------



## wermad




----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Snip


Good God wermad love all them circles!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Formalities First;
> 
> *Big Congrats to you Ginger Nuts*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most proud /happy moment I remember was welcoming the kids into our world.
> 
> Darlene - that infinity effect is simply amaaaazing.
> That sure is one _special_ effect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to earth -
> Stage one of my humble build is complete and as soon as these pics upload will start leak testing.
> Months in the making (on & off) this is first time that everything has been in the case !!! (except some lights which velcro to the ceiling)
> 
> I proudly present the Supercharged 351
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Different Angles and the PSU side


nothing humble about that build at all. very nice job.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> So I got a little further along re-assembling the Stretch Limo, and once I had the internal rads and fans installed and wired, I just could not help myself . . . .
> 
> I had to see how well the infinite reflection effect I planned was going to work out in reality.
> 
> Daaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn . . .
> 
> It came out beyond expectations. . . . . So I had to shot a couple pics to show off a lil'.
> 
> The top trim pieces are not snapped down, they are just sitting on top so the top fan LEDs don't overpower the camera.
> 
> Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that looks really cool. Brilliant idea. Let me guess, one way mirror for your side panel?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Wow that looks really cool. Brilliant idea. Let me guess, one way mirror for your side panel?


That's what I was thinking too. Maybe some of that reflective tint normally used in larger windows- only with both reflective sides pointing inward? Darn, I think I ruined the magic


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I went with the 13 since I'm bending Primochill 1/2" and will most likely stick with that in the future


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I went with the 13 since I'm bending Primochill 1/2" and will most likely stick with that in the future


If I'm using 10/12mm acrylic, would I wanna get the smaller bending kit and just separately buy the right inner tubing so it won't collapse?

-Zepp


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> So I got a little further along re-assembling the Stretch Limo, and once I had the internal rads and fans installed and wired, I just could not help myself . . . .
> 
> I had to see how well the infinite reflection effect I planned was going to work out in reality.
> 
> Daaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn . . .
> 
> It came out beyond expectations. . . . . So I had to shot a couple pics to show off a lil'.
> 
> The top trim pieces are not snapped down, they are just sitting on top so the top fan LEDs don't overpower the camera.
> 
> Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dang, that is trippy and awesome. Are you going up for MOTM? Because are sure would vote for that.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Amazing! both the mirror rig and the little box packed full of watery goodness, Oh, and that 2011 setup with the 4 GPUs. I love this thread.

and while I haven't touched my loop in a while, I feel compelled to drop this off anyways:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






FWIW everything runs under 70C with the side panel on (or off - less than 1C difference, so as near as makes no difference, it makes no difference), so I'm pretty happy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Right,this thread keeps going wildly







,so,if you have specific questions that require in depth answers,please make your own thread and link it here if you wish the members to add their comments.
Wading thru post after post of topics covered in MANY other threads is become chore-some,use the search or create a thread.

Thank you.


----------



## lurker2501

My first water-cooling experience.


----------



## wermad

Tried plumbing the ram blocks and there's a bit of flex on the dims. Seems like two is not sturdy enough with the force applied by the bending tube







. Time to spend more on another ram kit and plates


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Now back to earth -
> Stage one of my humble build is complete and as soon as these pics upload will start leak testing.
> Months in the making (on & off) this is first time that everything has been in the case !!! (except some lights which velcro to the ceiling)
> 
> I proudly present the Supercharged 351
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ...


This is seriously pro-level. Everything fits together so perfectly, it looks like a prototype for a WC Steambox.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> If I'm using 10/12mm acrylic, would I wanna get the smaller bending kit and just separately buy the right inner tubing so it won't collapse?
> 
> -Zepp


Sounds right to me!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Now back to earth -
> Stage one of my humble build is complete and as soon as these pics upload will start leak testing.
> Months in the making (on & off) this is first time that everything has been in the case !!! (except some lights which velcro to the ceiling)
> 
> I proudly present the Supercharged 351
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is seriously pro-level. Everything fits together so perfectly, it looks like a prototype for a WC Steambox.
Click to expand...

What did you expect? Underwater is RRT,we dont play....


----------



## fast_fate

Damn Straight BNEG !!!

Thanks for the comments fella's.
It has come together nicely








6 hrs into leak test with no leakage - think I'll be good, but I'll leave pump on overnight anyway.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Damn Straight BNEG !!!
> 
> Thanks for the comments fella's.
> It has come together nicely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 hrs into leak test with no leakage - think I'll be good, but I'll leave pump on overnight anyway.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Consider a career in mouse gynecology,you have a talent for working in tight spaces...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter




----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> So I got a little further along re-assembling the Stretch Limo, and once I had the internal rads and fans installed and wired, I just could not help myself . . . .
> 
> I had to see how well the infinite reflection effect I planned was going to work out in reality.
> 
> Daaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn . . .
> 
> It came out beyond expectations. . . . . So I had to shot a couple pics to show off a lil'.
> 
> The top trim pieces are not snapped down, they are just sitting on top so the top fan LEDs don't overpower the camera.
> 
> Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Only one explanation for this kind of sorcery. A witch! Burn her!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Formalities First;
> 
> *Big Congrats to you Ginger Nuts*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most proud /happy moment I remember was welcoming the kids into our world.
> 
> Darlene - that infinity effect is simply amaaaazing.
> That sure is one _special_ effect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to earth -
> Stage one of my humble build is complete and as soon as these pics upload will start leak testing.
> Months in the making (on & off) this is first time that everything has been in the case !!! (except some lights which velcro to the ceiling)
> 
> I proudly present the Supercharged 351
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Different Angles and the PSU side


Amazing work.







Makes me what to build a SFF rig. What case is that, btw?


----------



## ikem

I know this is pushing it close, and been asked many times before...

cpus and 7870 crossfire on a ex360 rad.

the only thing I can do it put a 120 rad in between the cpus and gpus.

with the fans at 800rpm, I get 38C and 40C on the CPUs after 6 hours. I could bump the fan speed up a bit with the gpus in there.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me what to build a SFF rig. What case is that, btw?


Lian Li PC-V351B
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> This is seriously pro-level. Everything fits together so perfectly, it looks like a prototype for a WC Steambox.


Thanks Mate - Just threw a few old bits 'n pieces together


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Congrats on the new baby!!
> 
> What are you guys using for compression fittings these days? The more I look at them, the more indecisive I get. I was going to get the XSPC's because they are cheap. But are they any good?
> 
> I'm looking for 7/16 - 5/8 because that's my preferred size of tube. Plenty of flow, thick walls but not too thick, bends really well and doesn't kink easily. However I could probably go to 1/2-3/4 if I had to.


I have a ton of these that I'm not using because I moved to acrylic but they are great. I had some black koolance that turned blue due to the biocide on my previous fluid but my black chrome XSPC fittings are still shiny as the day I got them. And they worked very well with Primochill tubing.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Morning fellas! Getting ready for some not so fun withdrawals as I just stopped my medication today so I think I will spend a little time polishing my other block to get my mind off of it. Lucky for me I'm getting an entire box of stuff tomorrow that will help get my mind off of it for the entire day!


----------



## Im Batman

Hey,

My stock 290 with an XSPC block gets temps of maximum (with my room at about 35c)
50c on the core
42c on VRM 2
71c on VRM 1

Is this variation between the VRM normal or do I probably need to reseat the block?

Sorry BNEG off topic, didn't think it was worth a new thread. The following is back on track.

I wasn't too impressed with the new XSPC R9 290 block I just put in.

They did a bad job machining the threads of the ports so when putting either the barbs or plugs in, I had to basically cut a new thread the whole way and it left a few plastic shavings in the loop that I just couldn't flush.

One of the ports is almost no good with the barb at about 15 degrees from being straight, the plug I replaced it with is the same. This was with XSPC compression fittings.

Still water tight though so I suppose that's something


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> My stock 290 with an XSPC block gets temps of maximum (with my room at about 35c)
> 50c on the core
> 42c on VRM 2
> 71c on VRM 1
> 
> Is this variation between the VRM normal or do I probably need to reseat the block?
> 
> Sorry BNEG off topic, didn't think it was worth a new thread. The following is back on track.
> 
> I wasn't too impressed with the new XSPC R9 290 block I just put in.
> 
> They did a bad job machining the threads of the ports so when putting either the barbs or plugs in, I had to basically cut a new thread the whole way and it left a few plastic shavings in the loop that I just couldn't flush.
> 
> One of the ports is almost no good with the barb at about 15 degrees from being straight, the plug I replaced it with is the same. This was with XSPC compression fittings.
> 
> Still water tight though so I suppose that's something


Which block is it? Are you sure that it has active VRM cooling? If so then you might want to reseat it or even seat the block on the card with no thermal pads (use TIM on the die!!!) and see if the VRM's need thinner or thicker thermal pads than the ones XSPC supplied. Do the same for the memory around the GPU. I know that with my Alphacool block supplied 1.5mm thick thermal pads and they made the card bend all wierd around the block. Turns out I needed 0.5mm thermal pads. Can you take a picture up close with the block on the card so we can see how the VRM's look as well as the memory? and take one of your entire card so we can see how straight it looks?


----------



## stickg1

A lot of people are seeing large differences in VRM temps on these cards. Part off the reasoning is that the hotter VRMs are used by the core, and the little set of three VRMs is for the memory, which is less active. Some suggest putting a non conductive TIM between the VRM and thermal pad. But your temps look normal. You can try a reseat but the result might still be the same.


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Which block is it? Are you sure that it has active VRM cooling? If so then you might want to reseat it or even seat the block on the card with no thermal pads (use TIM on the die!!!) and see if the VRM's need thinner or thicker thermal pads than the ones XSPC supplied. Do the same for the memory around the GPU. I know that with my Alphacool block supplied 1.5mm thick thermal pads and they made the card bend all wierd around the block. Turns out I needed 0.5mm thermal pads. Can you take a picture up close with the block on the card so we can see how the VRM's look as well as the memory? and take one of your entire card so we can see how straight it looks?


This is the XSPC Razor block, it is supposed to have active VRM cooling.

Sorry if the pictures are a little dark, with the flash on it blurred the image.






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> A lot of people are seeing large differences in VRM temps on these cards. Part off the reasoning is that the hotter VRMs are used by the core, and the little set of three VRMs is for the memory, which is less active. Some suggest putting a non conductive TIM between the VRM and thermal pad. But your temps look normal. You can try a reseat but the result might still be the same.


I'll chalk it up to this seeing as the pads supplied with the block seemed to fit alright. From what I have read they are rated up to 105c so I'll give reseating it a miss until I clean the loop next.

Thank you RavageTheEarth, stickg1


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> My stock 290 with an XSPC block gets temps of maximum (with my room at about 35c)
> 50c on the core
> 42c on VRM 2
> 71c on VRM 1
> 
> Is this variation between the VRM normal or do I probably need to reseat the block?
> 
> Sorry BNEG off topic, didn't think it was worth a new thread. The following is back on track.
> 
> I wasn't too impressed with the new XSPC R9 290 block I just put in.
> 
> They did a bad job machining the threads of the ports so when putting either the barbs or plugs in, I had to basically cut a new thread the whole way and it left a few plastic shavings in the loop that I just couldn't flush.
> 
> One of the ports is almost no good with the barb at about 15 degrees from being straight, the plug I replaced it with is the same. This was with XSPC compression fittings.
> 
> Still water tight though so I suppose that's something


that is completely normal I am getting almost the same exact temps with an EK block on my 290x.

those are your gaming temps I assume? I've seen my vrm1 hit 71c while gaming but it is usually 55-65 with core around 48 so very close to you. and yes my vrm2 never hits over 40c

btw guys here is a picture of my first fully cooled computer. I know some of the tubing is a bit long but it needed to be since I needed to be able to pull out the pump and I didn't buy any angle fittings


----------



## RickRockerr

What would be best way to prevent any kind of bacteria and other harmful things in loop? I have Nexxos rads / nickel plated blocks so those wont cause corrosion.
As coolant I use distilled water and I have mayhems red dye in it.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> What would be best way to prevent any kind of bacteria and other harmful things in loop? I have Nexxos rads / nickel plated blocks so those wont cause corrosion.
> As coolant I use distilled water and I have mayhems red dye in it.


You would need either a silver kill coil or a water additive such as PT Nuke or Mayhems Extreme Biocide. Since you're using dye you would want the copper sulfate version of PT Nuke, not the PHN version.
PT Nuke Cu
Mayhems Extreme
Silver Kill Coil

I thought I read that Silver kill coils and nickle plated blocks don't play well with each other but it's been debated. I'd wait for someone else to chime in on that since I'm running all copper blocks


----------



## LunaP

Ok so finally decided on UT60's and SR-1's May just do 4x UT-60's though for my TH10. Seeing as they'd fit perfectly across the board.

With that said I now have finally decided on most of the major parts

Case [done] TH10
GPU blocks [done] Razor GTX Titan w/ backplate
CPU block [done] XSPC Raystorm acrylic
RADS [Done] UT60's/SR-1's (possibly all UT60's vs half and half)
Tubing [Type selected] Acrylic
FANS [searching] Looking for AP-15's but most places are now out that sell cheap, so looking for an alternative in case. (don't want AP-14s)

All thats left are fittings and tubing size, since 10 and 12mm tubings aren't compatible w/ certain fittings, I'll probably go with 13, as 16mm would be huge, and I like small.

Any specific brands for acrylic? As well as fittings recommended for the 13mm? Or are there some sexy ones (black or red ) available for the 12mm's?


----------



## ccRicers

I plan to alternate between radiators and water blocks in my cooling loop. If I have a 240mm and a 120mm radiator, does it make a huge difference which one gets positioned after which block? Would the GPU receive cooler water if it immediately follows a 240mm rad versus the 120? Or does heat transfer in the water even out once the loop gets running for a while?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I plan to alternate between radiators and water blocks in my cooling loop. If I have a 240mm and a 120mm radiator, does it make a huge difference which one gets positioned after which block? Would the GPU receive cooler water if it immediately follows a 240mm rad versus the 120? Or does heat transfer in the water even out once the loop gets running for a while?


afaik since it's a loop it all evens out.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> btw guys here is a picture of my first fully cooled computer. I know some of the tubing is a bit long but it needed to be since I needed to be able to pull out the pump and I didn't buy any angle fittings


Congrats on getting it up and going!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I plan to alternate between radiators and water blocks in my cooling loop. If I have a 240mm and a 120mm radiator, does it make a huge difference which one gets positioned after which block? Would the GPU receive cooler water if it immediately follows a 240mm rad versus the 120? Or does heat transfer in the water even out once the loop gets running for a while?


It actually makes no difference. So long as you have a good pump to push the coolant just go with the cleanest tube routing configuration. Order of components makes no difference in terms of cooling performance.


----------



## rickyman0319

is there any difference between putting SP120 HP into fan controller, putting on 7V with adapter or both putting 7v with fan controller? SP120 HP is on fan cage mount on M8 case.


----------



## morencyam

Running at 7v on just a controller or just an adapter would basically be identical, other than being able to raise or lower voltage on a controller. Hooking it up to an adapter then a fan controller, I assume, would mean that you could only run at 7v max. If you use a controller though then I see no need for the adapter


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> afaik since it's a loop it all evens out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It actually makes no difference. So long as you have a good pump to push the coolant just go with the cleanest tube routing configuration. Order of components makes no difference in terms of cooling performance.


Ah okay thanks, then I will just focus on making the cleanest loop possible. The loop will be short anyways, since it's in a mini ITX case.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Has anyone used hard acrylic tubing from McMaster Carr? They have a 6ft. 1/2 in OD, 3/8 ID, 1/16 thick wall. for $3.94. FrozenCPU has Acrylic tubing with the exact same measurements for $9.99 and you only get 3ft.

Thanks in advanced for you input.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You would need either a silver kill coil or a water additive such as PT Nuke or Mayhems Extreme Biocide. Since you're using dye you would want the copper sulfate version of PT Nuke, not the PHN version.
> PT Nuke Cu
> Mayhems Extreme
> Silver Kill Coil
> 
> I thought I read that Silver kill coils and nickle plated blocks don't play well with each other but it's been debated. I'd wait for someone else to chime in on that since I'm running all copper blocks


I have also read several "horror" stories about kill coils so I don't feel comfortable using it.
I think I will go with Extreme Biocide because it's mayhem's so it is most safe with the dye.
Thanks!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I plan to alternate between radiators and water blocks in my cooling loop. If I have a 240mm and a 120mm radiator, does it make a huge difference which one gets positioned after which block? Would the GPU receive cooler water if it immediately follows a 240mm rad versus the 120? Or does heat transfer in the water even out once the loop gets running for a while?


Yep makes absolutely no difference at all. I have a strange order but it's the cleanest way to route the tubing.


----------



## Jorvin

just redone my loop, this is the result


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> just redone my loop, this is the result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/


stuff like that makes my computer look like crap.

My system runs well just isn't pretty like that.

shout out for steel series qck mousepad though


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> just redone my loop, this is the result


That is gorgeous!


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> just redone my loop, this is the result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!


----------



## wermad

Res came in


----------



## LunaP

Hey does anyone know which brand fititngs these are?



Also what are the best type of fittings for 12 or 13mm Acrylic? Compression fittings or ? Appreciate it.


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> stuff like that makes my computer look like crap.
> 
> My system runs well just isn't pretty like that.
> 
> shout out for steel series qck mousepad though


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That is gorgeous!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> Very nice!


Thanks


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey does anyone know which brand fititngs these are?
> 
> 
> 
> Also what are the best type of fittings for 12 or 13mm Acrylic? Compression fittings or ? Appreciate it.


Looks like Bitspower 1/2in ID - 3/4in OD regular compression fittings


----------



## morencyam

Those are Bitspower. Looks like for regular 1/2" x 3/4" tubing

EDIT: Daaah, beat me to it Jeff


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Res came in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yayy!!! Very nice! Is the entire build going to be that green color?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Those are Bitspower. Looks like for regular 1/2" x 3/4" tubing
> 
> EDIT: Daaah, beat me to it Jeff










to fast for you


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to fast for you


Only by a few seconds lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> yayy!!! Very nice! Is the entire build going to be that green color?


Only a few touches of green (fan leds, all fifty of them







, paracord sleeve, and res) while the majority is white and black.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Only a few touches of green (fan leds, all fifty of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , paracord sleeve, and res) while the majority is white and black.


Mmm thats going to be sexy! Reminds me of a JamesWalt-esque build. I like where this is going!


----------



## szeged

how my build sits currently, figuring out how/where im gonna mount the res and thinking i might need to move the monsta in the front to the top or bottom of the sth10 and put a ut60 up front because fitting a 480mm down below with the monsta in push pull up front doesnt seem possible.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Mmm thats going to be sexy! Reminds me of a JamesWalt-esque build. I like where this is going!


I've always had something green going on with my old builds:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1407469/build-log-green-zilla-900d-quad-lightnings-5x1-eyefinity

http://www.overclock.net/t/1329361/build-log-monstas-inside-monsta-rads-custom-mm-case-titan-sli

Even the 800D got some green:

http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> yayy!!! Very nice! Is the entire build going to be that green color?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've always had something green going on with my old builds:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1407469/build-log-green-zilla-900d-quad-lightnings-5x1-eyefinity
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1329361/build-log-monstas-inside-monsta-rads-custom-mm-case-titan-sli
> 
> Even the 800D got some green:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation


This is how I picture wermad when he is building


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This is how I picture wermad when he is building
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is scary accurate.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've always had something green going on with my old builds:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1407469/build-log-green-zilla-900d-quad-lightnings-5x1-eyefinity
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1329361/build-log-monstas-inside-monsta-rads-custom-mm-case-titan-sli
> 
> Even the 800D got some green:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation


Oh nice I didn't know you had an Ascension? Too big for ya? lulz

I personally love mine. I will be back up and running tomorrow when I get my order in.



Threw it together quickly last time and figured it was time for a rebuild.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This is how I picture wermad when he is building










. Crazy, but not that crazy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Oh nice I didn't know you had an Ascension? Too big for ya? lulz
> 
> I personally love mine. I will be back up and running tomorrow when I get my order in.
> 
> 
> 
> Threw it together quickly last time and figured it was time for a rebuild.


That one, it was a custom MM case, it was taller, wider, and deeper then an Ext. ascension. I did have an Ext. Ascension in 2011. MM are nice but CL is hella better imho







.



That's an Elysium back there for comparison.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> yayy!!! Very nice! Is the entire build going to be that green color?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've always had something green going on with my old builds:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1407469/build-log-green-zilla-900d-quad-lightnings-5x1-eyefinity
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1329361/build-log-monstas-inside-monsta-rads-custom-mm-case-titan-sli
> 
> Even the 800D got some green:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is how I picture wermad when he is building
Click to expand...

No.

More like...


----------



## LunaP

ok after watching this video, I decided on 1/2" OD tubing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJxAd94t_j0#t=205

So any place that has some sexy compression fittings for these? Or a nice set to go w/ a black / red theme, that or something shiny black/chrome style.

Is primo chill a good brand for acrylic or does it not matter?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No.
> 
> More like...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


MY EYESSSS








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Crazy, but not that crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That one, it was a custom MM case, it was taller, wider, and deeper then an Ext. ascension. I did have an Ext. Ascension in 2011. MM are nice but CL is hella better imho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's an Elysium back there for comparison.


Yea I was a little confused because I knew they don't make those side panels for the Ascension. I love those Elysium's and want to get one for my next build.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ok after watching this video, I decided on 1/2" OD tubing
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJxAd94t_j0#t=205
> 
> So any place that has some sexy compression fittings for these? Or a nice set to go w/ a black / red theme, that or something shiny black/chrome style.
> 
> Is primo chill a good brand for acrylic or does it not matter?


Primochill is primarily the only brand for 3/8ID x 1/2OD acrylic tube. Everything else (like EK and E22) uses 10/12mm acrylic tube. All the primochill stuff is proprietary so make sure not to mix.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ok after watching this video, I decided on 1/2" OD tubing
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJxAd94t_j0#t=205
> 
> So any place that has some sexy compression fittings for these? Or a nice set to go w/ a black / red theme, that or something shiny black/chrome style.
> 
> Is primo chill a good brand for acrylic or does it not matter?


Primo chill is great, but overpriced. Found the same tubing on McMaster Car @ 3 bucks for 6 feet of tube.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

http://www.mcmaster.com/#acrylic-tubing/=pvp89k


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No.
> 
> More like...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your Borat winter wear?


----------



## Thrasher1016

I'm not going to ruin it with spoilers....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No.
> 
> More like...


BUT:

Just another Saturday night in LODO Orlando, FL!!!










Thanks - T


----------



## szeged

anyone got any suggestions on how/where i should mount this res in the sth10?

Cant find any pump/res brackets/holders that seem like they would work. Using the EK d5 pump top. bitspower 250ml res.


----------



## kpoeticg

ROFL!!!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Primochill is primarily the only brand for 3/8ID x 1/2OD acrylic tube. Everything else (like EK and E22) uses 10/12mm acrylic tube. All the primochill stuff is proprietary so make sure not to mix.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Primo chill is great, but overpriced. Found the same tubing on McMaster Car @ 3 bucks for 6 feet of tube.


OH I thought that the EK and E22 fittings weren't available w/ 10/12 what's the norm then? I see most I think w/ 1/2? If not I'll go w/ 12mm then, what size fittings go w/ those?



Wife just ordered this for me as an xmas gift , I put a few items in the cart and told her to just get w/e she ended up getting the whole cart ( since I didn't have time to find the other parts )









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ROFL!!!


THIS ^ Thanks for giving my boss the fright of her life, she spit her coffee EVERYWHERE as she was behind me w/o me knowing while I was reading the thread I just felt the back of my head get SUPER hot briefly as well as just saw spray hit my monitors










Lets just say I didn't get in trouble and got an apology instead rofl hahaha,.


----------



## kpoeticg

HAHAHA, yeah that's a very strange thing to be on your monitor at work when some1's just walking by. LOLLLLLLL

She's probly thinkin "Hey, whatever floats your boat"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No.
> 
> More like...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your Borat winter wear?
Click to expand...

No man.

Im more like....


----------



## Ovrclck

Hey guys, my brother is working on his first water cooled rig and we're wondering if the screws that came with the Monsta 360 will work to mount into his 800D? The heads seem too small, like they will fall through the existing holes.

Are the mounting screws M3?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hey guys, my brother is working on his first water cooled rig and we're wondering if the screws that came with the Monsta 360 will work to mount into his 800D? The heads seem too small, like they will fall through the existing holes.
> 
> Are the mounting screws M3?


If that's the case then I suggest using some black washers to allow the screws to sit securely and provide stability without falling through.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hey guys, my brother is working on his first water cooled rig and we're wondering if the screws that came with the Monsta 360 will work to mount into his 800D? The heads seem too small, like they will fall through the existing holes.


They suck tbh and yes, the hex head is a bit too small. I would recommend getting some philips head M3x30mm. You can order them from places like mcmastercarr.com or check your local hardware store.

Personally, I would tap them to M4. I did an ST-30 240mm rad and it was very easy. M4 are much more robust for heavy rads like the Monsta.

Good luck to your bro in fitting that beast in the 800D


----------



## RavageTheEarth

My gudd.... what is this thread turning into????










lulz forever more


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No man.
> 
> Im more like....


----------



## skupples

Good lord man, scantily clad, bushy man, Here, let me fix that with you with some pron..



thinking about using black screws.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If that's the case then I suggest using some black washers to allow the screws to sit securely and provide stability without falling through.


That's what we figured. Thanks! Also, my brother thanks you guys for hooking him up with the cap for his mcp35x micro res. I think the gentlemen's name is "cay"


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hey guys, my brother is working on his first water cooled rig and we're wondering if the screws that came with the Monsta 360 will work to mount into his 800D? The heads seem too small, like they will fall through the existing holes.
> 
> 
> 
> They suck tbh and yes, the hex head is a bit too small. I would recommend getting some philips head M3x30mm. You can order them from places like mcmastercarr.com or check your local hardware store.
> 
> Personally, I would tap them to M4. I did an ST-30 240mm rad and it was very easy. M4 are much more robust for heavy rads like the Monsta.
> 
> Good luck to your bro in fitting that beast in the 800D
Click to expand...

Yeah, the Alphacool screws are nice, but the heads are wayy too small. I couldn't mount a grill on my rad with them without buying screwcap/washers. You can buy a 50 Pack of nylon washers from FCPU for a few bucks that'll help.

THESE


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They suck tbh and yes, the hex head is a bit too small. I would recommend getting some philips head M3x30mm. You can order them from places like mcmastercarr.com or check your local hardware store.
> 
> Personally, I would tap them to M4. I did an ST-30 240mm rad and it was very easy. M4 are much more robust for heavy rads like the Monsta.
> 
> Good luck to your bro in fitting that beast in the 800D


Thanks bro!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They suck tbh and yes, the hex head is a bit too small. I would recommend getting some philips head M3x30mm. You can order them from places like mcmastercarr.com or check your local hardware store.
> 
> Personally, I would tap them to M4. I did an ST-30 240mm rad and it was very easy. M4 are much more robust for heavy rads like the Monsta.
> 
> Good luck to your bro in fitting that beast in the 800D


I just grabbed 4x UT-60's would you recommend me getting diff screws for my TH10 or would the ones that come with suffice? If so then which as I"m about to place another order on with FCPU since they're still shipping today.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> That's what we figured. Thanks! Also, my brother thanks you guys for hooking him up with the cap for his mcp35x micro res. I think the gentlemen's name is "cay"


No problem and Cay is a she. She was able to find some caps that I thought we had sent back to the factory because the reservoirs were defective. I'm glad she was able to take care of it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone got any suggestions on how/where i should mount this res in the sth10?
> 
> Cant find any pump/res brackets/holders that seem like they would work. Using the EK d5 pump top. bitspower 250ml res.


What exactly is the issue? It seems like mounting it either flush against the back or straight where it is shouldn't be a problem.

Have u looked at the (UN)designs & EK mounts?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=185&main_page=index

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=37566

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I just grabbed 4x UT-60's would you recommend me getting diff screws for my TH10 or would the ones that come with suffice? If so then which as I"m about to place another order on with FCPU since they're still shipping today.


The Alphacool screws are nice. I've had them come with copper screws and black screws for different rads.

It's just the little socket-heads are tiny. They're M3 screws, i think they have 30mm & 35mm for every screw hole. They work good depending on the hole you're screwing them into. Worst case scenario is you'll have to use some washers like the nylon ones i posted a few posts back

They're just a TINY bit larger than a standard fan screw-hole.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, the Alphacool screws are nice, but the heads are wayy too small. I couldn't mount a grill on my rad with them without buying screwcap/washers. You can buy a 50 Pack of nylon washers from FCPU for a few bucks that'll help.
> 
> THESE


Damn, you guys are teh shiz







Really appreciate!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone got any suggestions on how/where i should mount this res in the sth10?
> 
> Cant find any pump/res brackets/holders that seem like they would work. Using the EK d5 pump top. bitspower 250ml res.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1161&products_id=36172
Here you go


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No problem and Cay is a she. She was able to find some caps that I thought we had sent back to the factory because the reservoirs were defective. I'm glad she was able to take care of it.


Really appreciate it! Thanks so much


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, the Alphacool screws are nice, but the heads are wayy too small. I couldn't mount a grill on my rad with them without buying screwcap/washers. You can buy a 50 Pack of nylon washers from FCPU for a few bucks that'll help.
> 
> THESE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, you guys are teh shiz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really appreciate!
Click to expand...











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone got any suggestions on how/where i should mount this res in the sth10?
> 
> Cant find any pump/res brackets/holders that seem like they would work. Using the EK d5 pump top. bitspower 250ml res.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1161&products_id=36172
> Here you go
Click to expand...

I think the problem is that the D5 would make those brackets not work. The D5 Top's wider than the length of the brackets. Any EK or (UN)designs mount should work though


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Off topic but i gots some early Christmas goodies.



Enterprise Samsung SSD and a shiny new 4770k....to the vice!!!


----------



## skupples

(mock up) Word in the street is that i'll have a matte mobo shroud soon!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys on my bottom rad i have a set of gelid wings in pull (static pressure 1.9-rpm 1500) and corsairs sp quiet edition in push (static pressure 1.29-rpm 1450),i was just wondering if i would see better temps running 4 corsair sp performance on that rad rather than the mix i have now....


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys on my bottom rad i have a set of gelid wings in pull (static pressure 1.9-rpm 1500) and corsairs sp quiet edition in push (static pressure 1.29-rpm 1450),i was just wondering if i would see better temps running 4 corsair sp performance on that rad rather than the mix i have now....


If you're basing your SP on the manufacturer specs, don't ever go by that.

I'd imagine the Corsairs perform better than the Gelids. But there's no problem mixing fans that are close in specs like that


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I just grabbed 4x UT-60's would you recommend me getting diff screws for my TH10 or would the ones that come with suffice? If so then which as I"m about to place another order on with FCPU since they're still shipping today.


If you won't be adding fan grills, 30mm will barely grab but the head will most certainly go through the hole (slightly larger for 6-32 screws). Most of my M4 screws passed through my TH10 with only a few that needed a slight bore to help them get through (probably the powder coating).


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the problem is that the D5 would make those brackets not work. The D5 Top's wider than the length of the brackets. Any EK or (UN)designs mount should work though


Yep, o already got some bp brackets that hold the actual res bit the ek pump top is bulky and makes them impossible to use. So I'm looking for something like a metal bracket I cam use to mount the pump to the case somewhere. I kinda want it off the wall a bit but I'll mount it there if I have to.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you're basing your SP on the manufacturer specs, don't ever go by that.
> 
> I'd imagine the Corsairs perform better than the Gelids. But there's no problem mixing fans that are close in specs like that


Yeah i dnt really trust these manufacturers with there specs and all,was just wondering for the fact that the corsairs sp performance edition like you mentioned does perform better than the gelids and more likely better that the quiet edition if that would be better for the rad/cooling....


----------



## BradleyW

Hey everyone, just wondering about how my air flow should be once I've installed my 360 rad at the front and 420 rad at the top of my case. Should I have 360 as intake with the 420 pulling hot air out of the case? Here is a mini drawing of where my rads will be.

Thank you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone, just wondering about how my air flow should be once I've installed my 360 rad at the front and 420 rad at the top of my case. Should I have 360 as intake with the 420 pulling hot air out of the case? Here is a mini drawing of where my rads will be.
> 
> Thank you.


I don't see anything wrong with that and I'm glad you've decided to take the plunge into custom water cooling.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *szeged* 

Quote:
Originally Posted by *kpoeticg* 










I think the problem is that the D5 would make those brackets not work. The D5 Top's wider than the length of the brackets. Any EK or (UN)designs mount should work though

Yep, o already got some bp brackets that hold the actual res bit the ek pump top is bulky and makes them impossible to use. So I'm looking for something like a metal bracket I cam use to mount the pump to the case somewhere. I kinda want it off the wall a bit but I'll mount it there if I have to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by *kpoeticg* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone got any suggestions on how/where i should mount this res in the sth10?
> 
> Cant find any pump/res brackets/holders that seem like they would work. Using the EK d5 pump top. bitspower 250ml res.








> What exactly is the issue? It seems like mounting it either flush against the back or straight where it is shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> Have u looked at the (UN)designs & EK mounts?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=185&main_page=index
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=37566


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you're basing your SP on the manufacturer specs, don't ever go by that.
> 
> I'd imagine the Corsairs perform better than the Gelids. But there's no problem mixing fans that are close in specs like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i dnt really trust these manufacturers with there specs and all,was just wondering for the fact that the corsairs sp performance edition like you mentioned does perform better than the gelids and more likely better that the quiet edition if that would be better for the rad/cooling....
Click to expand...

The SP Performance Editions will definitely perform better for your rad than the quiet editions or gelids.

They're probly in the top 5 "commercial level" rad fans


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you won't be adding fan grills, 30mm will barely grab but the head will most certainly go through the hole (slightly larger for 6-32 screws). Most of my M4 screws passed through my TH10 with only a few that needed a slight bore to help them get through (probably the powder coating).


Well I'll be doing push pull, just realized that the screws probably won't matter then would they Lol? My bad. Now to find a suitable replacement for AP-15's since 16$ per fan is a bit crazy for 32 and more than the price of a new TH10.

AND to find a site w/ the Razor GTX Titan blocks in stock that will def ship the same day I order it (tomorrow since its to late now ) wish there was a parts shop on the west coast then I'd still be in business. I hear PPC's usually processes orders within 2-3 days? Anyone know any shops on the west coast ?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well I'll be doing push pull, just realized that the screws probably won't matter then would they Lol? My bad. Now to find a suitable replacement for AP-15's since 16$ per fan is a bit crazy for 32 and more than the price of a new TH10.
> 
> AND to find a site w/ the Razor GTX Titan blocks in stock that will def ship the same day I order it (tomorrow since its to late now ) wish there was a parts shop on the west coast then I'd still be in business.
> 
> 
> *I hear PPC's usually processes orders within 2-3 days? Anyone know any shops on the west coast ?*


Who ever told you that is sadly misinformed. I get stuff overnight'ed from them all the time(cheapest shipping is over night for me







). Place the order @ night, & get the shipping conformation by noon the next day. They are in an industrial park that's very close to a fedex & ups processing facility. If you order before 6PM EST you normally get the packaged conformation with in 20 minutes.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Who ever told you that is sadly misinformed. I get stuff overnight'ed from them all the time. Place the order @ night, & get the shipping conformation by noon the next day. They are in an industrial park that's very close to a fedex & ups processing facility. If you order before 6PM EST you normally get the packaged conformation with in 20 minutes.


Yeah, usually if i place my order early enough in the day, it'll get shipped out before they close (as long as it's not one of my giant orders)


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with that and I'm glad you've decided to take the plunge into custom water cooling.


Should I have my side fan as intake and rear 140 as exhaust?
Yeah, it's about time I jumped in the deep end.
You'll be glad to know that I'll be using the Micro Res from Swiftech as part of the loop








Thanks Bram.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Should I have my side fan as intake and rear 140 as exhaust?
> Yeah, it's about time I jumped in the deep end.
> You'll be glad to know that I'll be using the Micro Res from Swiftech as part of the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bram.


Yeah, that's the way that I would do it. That way you'll have fresh air blowing onto the graphics and the board. No problem and post some pics once you get it all put together.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with that and I'm glad you've decided to take the plunge into custom water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I have my side fan as intake and rear 140 as exhaust?
> Yeah, it's about time I jumped in the deep end.
> You'll be glad to know that I'll be using the Micro Res from Swiftech as part of the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bram.
Click to expand...

That pic you showed work best IMO with both rads running intake & that room for other fans you mentioned should be exhaust fans.

Rads cool better with cool air from the outside of your chassis, so if you have the option it's always better to use your rads as intake and exhaust from another spot


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The SP Performance Editions will definitely perform better for your rad than the quiet editions or gelids.
> They're probly in the top 5 "commercial level" rad fans


Thanks man,once im off these crutches i will replace the bottom rad with 4 sp performance,wondering if i could change the fans out without have to drain the loop....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Who ever told you that is sadly misinformed. I get stuff overnight'ed from them all the time(cheapest shipping is over night for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Place the order @ night, & get the shipping conformation by noon the next day. They are in an industrial park that's very close to a fedex & ups processing facility. If you order before 6PM EST you normally get the packaged conformation with in 20 minutes.


blargh coulda made it in time too then...blah...

Also do you guys recommend the 6pin PCI-E adapter version or the molex 4 pin for this baby?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32851:6a3a66cae94eaf9a5e7f6c2a079d38c5

Gonna grab 4 for my fans.

Also I should be fine using the 13mm tube bending kit even if I go 12 correct?

Also any difference between these 2 besides the price and that one says 780ti?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39810:b30e1161909dc8526b90a85b48f85498

vs

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37490:c4d099d4b22a92e21f56a75cb6d9f4a3


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well I'll be doing push pull, just realized that the screws probably won't matter then would they Lol? My bad. Now to find a suitable replacement for AP-15's since 16$ per fan is a bit crazy for 32 and more than the price of a new TH10.
> 
> AND to find a site w/ the Razor GTX Titan blocks in stock that will def ship the same day I order it (tomorrow since its to late now ) wish there was a parts shop on the west coast then I'd still be in business. I hear PPC's usually processes orders within 2-3 days? Anyone know any shops on the west coast ?


Just gotta take into account the thickness of the case itself and/or the mounting bracket.

Ppcs.com is pretty quick. If you get an email from the famous "Marina K" its on its way. they have things go out in the early after noon and towards the end of the day (EST).


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The SP Performance Editions will definitely perform better for your rad than the quiet editions or gelids.
> They're probly in the top 5 "commercial level" rad fans








> Thanks man,once im off these crutches i will replace the bottom rad with 4 sp performance,wondering if i could change the fans out without have to drain the loop....


It's possible. Really depends on your tubing setup and how much slack you have. Also how careful you are...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> blargh coulda made it in time too then...blah...
> 
> *Also do you guys recommend the 6pin PCI-E adapter version or the molex 4 pin for this baby?*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32851:6a3a66cae94eaf9a5e7f6c2a079d38c5
> 
> Gonna grab 4 for my fans.
> 
> *Also I should be fine using the 13mm tube bending kit even if I go 12 correct?*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also any difference between these 2 besides the price and that one says 780ti?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39810:b30e1161909dc8526b90a85b48f85498
> 
> vs
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37490:c4d099d4b22a92e21f56a75cb6d9f4a3


I'd go with the Molex just because usually there's more spare molex's on a PSU. But if you have a 6Pin that you have no intention of using, then it shouldn't really make a difference

Yeah, u should get the 13mm kit


----------



## wermad

LunaP, you need your own help thread buddy


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That pic you showed work best IMO with both rads running intake & that room for other fans you mentioned should be exhaust fans.
> 
> Rads cool better with cool air from the outside of your chassis, so if you have the option it's always better to use your rads as intake and exhaust from another spot


Although I agree with this, that would mean my side fan would be exhaust, therefore the motherboard southbridge won't get any meaningful air blowing on the HS. I guess I could strap a 40mm fan onto it. You've given me something to think about there.
Thank you.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> LunaP, you need your own help thread buddy


I've had a few fulfilled actually, this is just for some quick ordering, and other simple questions, I think I'm done after this though, appreciate the help.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I've had a few fulfilled actually, this is just for some quick ordering, and other simple questions, I think I'm done after this though, appreciate the help.


Not wanting to sound rude or the like but, I just see you need a lot of assistance. I would recommend a thread so at least you have all that info and not many conversations going on at once. Do you have a build log btw?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That pic you showed work best IMO with both rads running intake & that room for other fans you mentioned should be exhaust fans.
> 
> Rads cool better with cool air from the outside of your chassis, so if you have the option it's always better to use your rads as intake and exhaust from another spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I agree with this, that would mean my side fan would be exhaust, therefore the motherboard southbridge won't get any meaningful air blowing on the HS. I guess I could strap a 40mm fan onto it. You've given me something to think about there.
> Thank you.
Click to expand...

I can think of a better way to cool your mobo's SB =)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not wanting to sound rude or the like but, I just see you need a lot of assistance. I would recommend a thread so at least you have all that info and not many conversations going on at once. Do you have a build log btw?


Once my WC parts arrive I'll start one, else it'd be pretty dead for starters. That + waiting for a few things from japan to arrive before I begin it since it will apply with the theme.









And no worries I hear ya, I have big threads for the major questions, I've hit up the Titan thread for many things, made a fan thread which turned out VERY informative, and also a few others, the rest were my choices, and the only remainders are just small things like fittings, tubing, etc, nothing of which I'd feel would need a new thread for just a few responses, I know things get flooded here but since its the main core of WC figured those small questions should be fine, as 1-2 responses is all I need.

Sorry about the Video card question though, I'm talking w/ Paul from XSPC about it now, seems there was an update for the Vregs according to him.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not wanting to sound rude or the like but, I just see you need a lot of assistance. I would recommend a thread so at least you have all that info and not many conversations going on at once. Do you have a build log btw?
> 
> 
> 
> Once my WC parts arrive I'll start one, else it'd be pretty dead for starters. That + waiting for a few things from japan to arrive before I begin it since it will apply with the theme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no worries I hear ya, I have big threads for the major questions, I've hit up the Titan thread for many things, made a fan thread which turned out VERY informative, and also a few others, the rest were my choices, and the only remainders are just small things like fittings, tubing, etc, nothing of which I'd feel would need a new thread for just a few responses, I know things get flooded here but since its the main core of WC figured those small questions should be fine, as 1-2 responses is all I need.
> 
> Sorry about the Video card question though, I'm talking w/ Paul from XSPC about it now, seems there was an update for the Vregs according to him.
Click to expand...

Don't worry. I went the same route you did as far as waiting til i had a bunch of my components before i started my build log. I bombarded @wermad with many n00bish questions in the XB Thread during the waiting period









U should be close to that time tho from all your progress i've seen in the past cpl months. It'll definitely help with getting assistance on a bunch of different topics


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Once my WC parts arrive I'll start one, else it'd be pretty dead for starters. That + waiting for a few things from japan to arrive before I begin it since it will apply with the theme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no worries I hear ya, I have big threads for the major questions, I've hit up the Titan thread for many things, made a fan thread which turned out VERY informative, and also a few others, the rest were my choices, and the only remainders are just small things like fittings, tubing, etc, nothing of which I'd feel would need a new thread for just a few responses, I know things get flooded here but since its the main core of WC figured those small questions should be fine, as 1-2 responses is all I need.
> 
> Sorry about the Video card question though, I'm talking w/ Paul from XSPC about it now, seems there was an update for the Vregs according to him.


Kewl, kewl







As long as you can keep up, kewl







. These threads can go through 20 pages per day, stuff can get lost easily


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I can think of a better way to cool your mobo's SB =)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Don't worry. I went the same route you did as far as waiting til i had a bunch of my components before i started my build log. I bombarded @wermad
> with many n00bish questions in the XB Thread during the waiting period
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> U should be close to that time tho from all your progress i've seen in the past cpl months. It'll definitely help with getting assistance on a bunch of different topics


yar, hard to believe just a few months ago I came on here JUST to ask about the Cosmos II vs the 900D and pros and cons as well as was ONLY going for air/CL lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kewl, kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you can keep up, kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These threads can go through 20 pages per day, stuff can get lost easily


Yar I like to catch up during lunch and or read through to see if other's have already asked similar questions which have answered some already for me, hence jumping over to Acrylic tubing.


----------



## VSG

So this is the current status of my build:



Unsure about the white tubing, I might go back to clear tubing if I find a way to get my coolant "silvery". Anyone have any suggestions? I got clear, white and red primochill tubing and it is pretty clear (pun unintended) that the colored tubing is just harder to fit into the compression fittings. A quick measurement reveals the colored tubing both are less than 1/2" ID despite the specs.



Now I am just waiting to get a fixed helix for my FrozenQ reservoir and I can then complete the loop.



The front of the case: Aquaero 6 XT, Asus DVD drive, NZXT Hue.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So this is the current status of my build:
> 
> 
> 
> Unsure about the white tubing, I might go back to clear tubing if I find a way to get my coolant "silvery". Anyone have any suggestions? I got clear, white and red primochill tubing and it is pretty clear (pun unintended) that the colored tubing is just harder to fit into the compression fittings. A quick measurement reveals the colored tubing both are less than 1/2" ID despite the specs.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am just waiting to get a fixed helix for my FrozenQ reservoir and I can then complete the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> The front of the case: Aquaero 6 XT, Asus DVD drive, NZXT Hue.


Fantastic job!!! Love the pics









Tygon makes a silver tubing. It has actual silver in it though, so u should use it as a replacement for a kill coil

Also, mixing mayhems red & green pastel (i think the ratio was like 1 drop red: 18 drops green or something like that), will give you gray pastel. Mayhem has a video for it in his thread, youtube channel, & website

Edit: taking a 2nd look at that pic, i could picture u going acrylic without too much effort. You did a pretty good job at keeping your tubing runs straight & short....


----------



## VSG

I got 3 sets of koolance QDCs though, that's the only reason I got 3 places where tubing is involved.

Edit: A few more pictures










The bottom front, a koolance ball valve attached to the drain port on the Alphacool Monsta. It should be easy to attach a piece of tubing fitted to a compression fitting onto this whenever draining is needed. I got a bitspower valve between the reservoir and the pump for a similar purpose- that way I won't have to drain ~400 mL of coolant that will be in the reservoir.










A bitspower T-fitting at the top radiator that I made use of to incorporate the new bitspower air exhaust fitting. Hopefully will make bleeding easy and I won't have to shake this monstrosity of a build around. To accompany this active air exhaust fitting, I will also have a passive aquacomputer pressure equalizer fitting on the top port of the reservoir after filling it up.










Close-up of the above, to better show the air exhaust fitting.










The back of the bottom radiator, it took some planning to connect the EK GPU terminal->bottom radiator->reservoir. There is an inline temperature sensor that is just before the inlet into the radiator and a plug-type temperature sensor at the outlet from the radiator. In the above set of pictures in my earlier post, there is also shown an aquacomputer flowmeter that will hook up to the AQ6.


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well I'll be doing push pull, just realized that the screws probably won't matter then would they Lol? My bad. Now to find a suitable replacement for AP-15's since 16$ per fan is a bit crazy for 32 and more than the price of a new TH10.
> 
> AND to find a site w/ the Razor GTX Titan blocks in stock that will def ship the same day I order it (tomorrow since its to late now ) wish there was a parts shop on the west coast then I'd still be in business. I hear PPC's usually processes orders within 2-3 days? Anyone know any shops on the west coast ?


I ordered the 780ti razor block for $135 yesterday and got lucky they were not in stock. Called performance-pcs this morning changed the order to the 780/titan razor block which is in stock for $109 got it shipped today and it arrives tomorrow. Although I'm in Florida. The blocks look exactly the same and both support the 780 reference and titan but supposedly only the more expensive one fits the 780ti. According to performance -pcs's customer service rep.

Edit: I would suggest calling before making your order because there is no way to tell from the web site how many they have in stock if any. When I placed the order yesterday I paid for one day shipping and got a confirmation then checked the site later and it said my order was waiting on pre-orders. Call first to avoid any issues.


----------



## wermad

780 Ti is not compatible w/ the older Titan/780 blocks.


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 780 Ti is not compatible w/ the older Titan/780 blocks.


Yes, but the reference 780 and Titan both fit the 780 Ti block. The 780 Ti block is more expensive, so I would suggest getting the cheaper blocks while supplies last If your not cooling a 780 Ti of course.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Ok guys its 37c/99f today outside temps inside about 3-4 degrees cooler hitting 58c with fans at 1200 and 56c with them at 1600rpm when playing metro last light,would another 240 rad front intake with sp fans give me any better temps....?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So this is the current status of my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unsure about the white tubing, I might go back to clear tubing if I find a way to get my coolant "silvery". Anyone have any suggestions? I got clear, white and red primochill tubing and it is pretty clear (pun unintended) that the colored tubing is just harder to fit into the compression fittings. A quick measurement reveals the colored tubing both are less than 1/2" ID despite the specs.


Not totally sure if I'm digging that white tubing. I think red would look really good, but if you plan on using dye you are going to want to go clear throughout the build.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I will probably get rid of the white tubing. I think red will also contrast poorly with the silver fittings but I will check it out. Worst case- I go clear tubing and clear coolant. This is my first build ever so I did not plan to go acrylic, also the QDCs will be rendered ineffective with acrylic and I know myself- I will probably end upgrading GPUs more often than the CPU


----------



## Ragsters

Can you guys help me out with something? I hear my mcp35x pump speed fluctuating by itself. When I look at the pump speed in the bios its at around 2000rpm is that right? Should I set it to 50%? How should I control this thing?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, I will probably get rid of the white tubing. I think red will also contrast poorly with the silver fittings but I will check it out. Worst case- I go clear tubing and clear coolant. This is my first build ever so I did not plan to go acrylic, also the QDCs will be rendered ineffective with acrylic and I know myself- I will probably end upgrading GPUs more often than the CPU


This is your first build ever? Wow awesome job for a beginner! Great eye for detail


----------



## kpoeticg

Why can't u use QDC's with acrylic? It can be done with rotaries & G1/4 halves of the QDC or short runs of soft tubing connected to the QDC's.

Anyway, love your setup. Wasn't trying to make more work for u. Just mentioned it cuz you were talking about changing tubing anyway









I like all the extra accessories in the 2nd set of pics. I'm hoping my rig ends up similar as far as the exhausts/valves/drains/etc....


----------



## VSG

Can you please explain how QDCs can be used with rotaries? I don't see where the slack to remove the male from the female QDC will come from. The only reason I got 3 pieces of soft tubing is to give slack at the 3 sets of QDCs.

I never had any plan to do an actual build till the next major CPU/GPU silicon process hit but hanging around OCN got addictive. So I told myself I would go air cooled in the beginning to ease into the process. then convinced myself to go with an AIO for the CPU. Of course, just any AIO would not do so I considered the Swiftech H220 and then realized there was a H320 version with 360mm of radiator space. Since this was not available for sale in the US, I decided to "upgrade" to a Swiftech H20-320 Elite kit. But I did not like the compromise of having a rad/res combo as well as a CPU block/pump combo and so here I finally ended up with well over a grand spent on watercooling stuff already









So ya, if you can convince me how to retain the functionality of my loop but with acrylic- who knows? I was probably going to go copper tubing next time round since I already have tons of experience with hard tubing and have all the tools necessary. Heck, I got industrial connectors and valves that run an average of $80 per fitting but those are for ultra-pure, ultra-low vacuum systems and totally overkill for liquid cooling.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So this is the current status of my build:
> 
> 
> 
> ultra-low vacuum systems and totally overkill for liquid cooling.


*
Blasphemy !!!*
Hey G,
Things looking pretty good there - still a few options that you settling on.
There must be something I'm missing in your pics.
How are you filling the res ? and bleeding process / top ups ??
I see it's had fluid in it but can't see your meathod.
thanks


----------



## VSG

The res is a FrozenQ liquid fusion that arrived with a broken helix which wrapped itself around the other helix:



So after consulting the guy who makes them, I opened the reservoir up in preparation for a new helix that hopefully will come soon:



I wanted to make sure the reservoir is leakproof so I filled it up and let it stand in a sink for a few hours. The aftermath of that is what you see. My plan to fill it up is to have a 90 degree compression fitting going into a piece of tubing. I have a laboratory wash bottle with a built-in nozzle to squeeze in coolant into the reservoir. Once the loop is running and the res is topped up, I will remove the compression fitting and put on the aforementioned aquacomputer pressure equalizer fitting. The way my loop is set, the inlet and outlet from the res are all at the bottom.

Once I get back the helix, it should look something like this below or, if everything goes as planned, a mix of red and white helices.



Draining the loop is via the drain port at the bottom radiator as shown in pictures I posted above, that same post also described how I plan to bleed the loop. A PWM pump and PWM capable controller also helps


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me out with something? I hear my mcp35x pump speed fluctuating by itself. When I look at the pump speed in the bios its at around 2000rpm is that right? Should I set it to 50%? How should I control this thing?


I don't have the pump so I can't really help. I know around 4500RPM is 100%. Here is a chart







I know how much we love charts


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I don't have the pump so I can't really help. I know around 4500RPM is 100%. Here is a chart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know how much we love charts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks! I tried messing with the bios and changed it to 100%. That sounded horrible!







Right now I have it on Standard profile which is working out great.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> *
> Blasphemy !!!*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey G,
> Things looking pretty good there - still a few options that you settling on.
> There must be something I'm missing in your pics.
> How are you filling the res ? and bleeding process / top ups ??
> I see it's had fluid in it but can't see your meathod.
> 
> 
> thanks


& how would you recommend I bleed & fill this beast? Been thinking about unscrewing the cap from the top of the top rad to get the fluid started. It's bay/pump res combo, so filling through that would be a major PITA.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







by the way, does anyone know what kind of Acrylic Cold Zero users for his midplates & sli covers?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 780 Ti is not compatible w/ the older Titan/780 blocks.


The non-SEs FC TITAN just need a couple extra thicker thermal pads to work. The SEs require a 30 second dremel job + a couple of extra thick thermal pads. Otherwise they fit. Been using my FC TITAN SE block on my GTX780Ti for ~ 3 weeks now @ 1350/3875MHz folding 24/7. Card tops out @ 38C.









The XSPC looks like it will need the same extra thick thermal pads in three areas to work.

EDIT: Actually nope. It will require a lot of dremeling to the acrylic on the bottom. Even more so than the EK.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks! I tried messing with the bios and changed it to 100%. That sounded horrible!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now I have it on Standard profile which is working out great.


Use Speedfan or the Asus software and setup a PWM profile that you like.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks! I tried messing with the bios and changed it to 100%. That sounded horrible!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now I have it on Standard profile which is working out great.


No problem! Glad you figured it out


----------



## fast_fate

If the EK rad up top has ports on both sides then you're on the start to a winning fill / top up solution.
I like the fill from top of case better than taking liquid inside to top up res option.
You'll still have to vent air out though - and the res will be the spot it congregates, so I would recommend one of those air bleeded vents that Bitspower and others are now selling.
So fill through the top of top rad and push button on resi to vent air out.

I modified pretty much every rad I had to have ports on both sides of the inlet / outlet chambers.
comes in real handy for fill ports when up top OR drain port when down on the floor








Here's a Hardware Labs GTX 420 with extra ports fitted on roof mount - and Alphacool in front with ports everywhere !!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Edit: I would suggest calling before making your order because there is no way to tell from the web site how many they have in stock if any. When I placed the order yesterday I paid for one day shipping and got a confirmation then checked the site later and it said my order was waiting on pre-orders. Call first to avoid any issues.


I debating of calling to either drop one item off my order of parts. The darnest thing had to be out of stock, the Fujipoly pads that I going to use on my Titan block. Still have yet to find a EK backplate in stock anyway still though.









On good note. Wooooo, filter housing for my flush system came in so I can finally put that together, and the dremel plus its workstation. Can't wait for next week to start my rebuild.







I just now need to buy a vice and find me some aluminum panels to work with.

Edit: Sneaky little buggers, just noticed the 780ti EK backplate works for Titan.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me out with something? I hear my mcp35x pump speed fluctuating by itself. When I look at the pump speed in the bios its at around 2000rpm is that right? Should I set it to 50%? How should I control this thing?


How do you have it connected? Is it connected to the CPU fan header and what setting are you currently using for it? Just keep in mind that every model of motherboard is going to be a little different.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How do you have it connected? Is it connected to the CPU fan header and what setting are you currently using for it? Just keep in mind that every model of motherboard is going to be a little different.


I currently have it set up on "Standard Profile" using my Maximus V Formula.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I currently have it set up on "Standard Profile" using my Maximus V Formula.


OK, then it's going to ramp up and ramp down based on your CPU temperature. I think with that board though you will need to activate the option that allows you to control it with AI Suite. Then you can set your own curve for it. Keep in mind that AI Suite can be a bit buggy at times.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If the EK rad up top has ports on both sides then you're on the start to a winning fill / top up solution.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I like the fill from top of case better than taking liquid inside to top up res option.
> You'll still have to vent air out though - and the res will be the spot it congregates, so I would recommend one of those air bleeded vents that Bitspower and others are now selling.
> So fill through the top of top rad and push button on resi to vent air out.
> 
> I modified pretty much every rad I had to have ports on both sides of the inlet / outlet chambers.
> comes in real handy for fill ports when up top OR drain port when down on the floor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a Hardware Labs GTX 420 with extra ports fitted on roof mount - and Alphacool in front with ports everywhere !!


sounds like I may need to drill a hole in the top of the 900D to make the top rad ports more accessible, it's a bay res, so all I have to do is leave the top off to vent air, along with the typical case tilting...

If anyone knows what kind of acrylic is used by Cold Zero I would love to know! Trying to replicate it, & so far no dice. A few people commented in here like they had intament knowledge of the workings of coldzero, so hopefully one of them can help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I currently have it set up on "Standard Profile" using my Maximus V Formula.


Iv'e been using MCP35x2 with that board for awhile now. go into the monitoring tab of the bios, go to fan controller tab, & set the CPU_HEADER speed to w/e you want it to. I found AI-suit would reset often. The other problem I Had that I could never solve was the pump(s) running @ 100% @ start up, which would flood the system with air. Some times it did it, & other times it didn't so who knows.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e been using MCP35x2 with that board for awhile now. go into the monitoring tab of the bios, go to fan controller tab, & set the CPU_HEADER speed to w/e you want it to. I found AI-suit would reset often. The other problem I Had that I could never solve was the pump(s) running @ 100% @ start up, which would flood the system with air. Some times it did it, & other times it didn't so who knows.


What do you mean by setting it to whatever I want to? How?


----------



## brandon6199




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The non-SEs FC TITAN just need a couple extra thicker thermal pads to work. The SEs require a 30 second dremel job + a couple of extra thick thermal pads. Otherwise they fit. Been using my FC TITAN SE block on my GTX780Ti for ~ 3 weeks now @ 1350/3875MHz folding 24/7. Card tops out @ 38C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The XSPC looks like it will need the same extra thick thermal pads in three areas to work.
> 
> EDIT: Actually nope. It will require a lot of dremeling to the acrylic on the bottom. Even more so than the EK.


Too much work to make it work







. But, if you're willing to void your block warranty, saves you a bit of cash. Kinda of disappointing Ti was slightly different. Well, I'm happy w/ the Lightnings. They start up and work like a charm. Now gotta get this build up and running again


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What do you mean by setting it to whatever I want to? How?


When you go into the Max V formula bios there is a monitoring tab, within the monitoring tab there is a fan controller section, within that section you can select the CPU_HEADER & input the % you want it to run @.


----------



## wermad

Res and one ram block installed:



Can't really do two dimms for one x4 ram block. Its not strong enough to hold when the tube is pressing on it and it flexes a bit too much for comfort. Ended up buying another set of Vengeance and BP plates for the second block. Lame


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Ok guys its 37c/99f today outside temps inside about 3-4 degrees cooler hitting 58c with fans at 1200 and 56c with them at 1600rpm when playing metro last light,would another 240 rad front intake with sp fans give me any better temps....?


Anyone want to school a noob on this....?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Anyone want to school a noob on this....?


most likely.


----------



## Pimphare

Question guys. I found this power distribution pcb and was wondering if it'd be enough to supply power to 6-8 fans sufficiently from one 4 pin molex? I'll be using Noiseblocker eLoop B12-3's. I'll also have it wired to a 3 speed fan switch. Or would it be better to use a couple of smaller power distribution pcb's say like 3 or 4 fan adapters?

I'm working on my first water cooled system and I know I ask a lot of questions guys, but I promise to have some pics here soon!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Who ever told you that is sadly misinformed. I get stuff overnight'ed from them all the time(cheapest shipping is over night for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Place the order @ night, & get the shipping conformation by noon the next day. They are in an industrial park that's very close to a fedex & ups processing facility. If you order before 6PM EST you normally get the packaged conformation with in 20 minutes.


Here is my experience with them: Placed and order last night @ 9 p.m. Realized I forgot something so I shot them an email about it at 9 a.m. Well, basically it was 11 a.m. at PerformancePCs time zone, & the order had already been packed and shipped!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Question guys. I found this power distribution pcb and was wondering if it'd be enough to supply power to 6-8 fans sufficiently from one 4 pin molex? I'll be using Noiseblocker eLoop B12-3's. I'll also have it wired to a 3 speed fan switch. Or would it be better to use a couple of smaller power distribution pcb's say like 3 or 4 fan adapters?
> 
> I'm working on my first water cooled system and I know I ask a lot of questions guys, but I promise to have some pics here soon!


that one feeds off of the PSU only, so it will have no issue powering a massive amount of fans. If you want one with control you will have to find the one with the 3 pin power source.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that one feeds off of the PSU only, so it will have no issue powering a massive amount of fans. If you want one with control you will have to find the one with the 3 pin power source.


I was trying to figure out how to connect a 3 speed fan controller to it. Maybe I can run the 4 pin molex from the psu to the fan switch and then a 4 pin molex from the fan switch to the power distributor pcb? The fan switch I speak of is built in on my Corsair 650D.

I think the switch has a molex connection. If so, I could probably go with another variation of that pcb.


----------



## gdubc

Quick question for whoever...
My plans for a loop involve ek blocks for cpu, mosfets, chipset, xspc block for gpu, 2 ek p.e. rads (240 & 360), aqua flowmeter and a ek tube res. My question is if the ek ddc 3.2 pwm is going to be enough muscle for these 4 blocks and 2 rads?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quick question for whoever...
> My plans for a loop involve ek blocks for cpu, mosfets, chipset, xspc block for gpu, 2 ek p.e. rads (240 & 360), aqua flowmeter and a ek tube res. My question is if the ek ddc 3.2 pwm is going to be enough muscle for these 4 blocks and 2 rads?


I'm running the Swiftech version (aka 35x): cpu, 4x gpu, 2x ram, 5x 480mm rads, 2x 240mm rads. I have pending a mb block set (chipset and mosfet) soon. So yeah, you can do it


----------



## mrrockwell

Hi guys
I'm finally considering to properly water cool my rig. Since I'm new to all this I have few questions.

Since I don't have much room in the front of my case so I was thinking of going with koolance 3x120 30fpi. I'm planing to cool cpu (I7 [email protected]), mobo (asus M5G) and 1x r9 290. I was wondering if that rad can do the job.

Also you can look at my BUILD LOG if you have any suggestion how can I do my loop.

Thanks


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

A 360 rad is enough to cool your cpu and gpu....Rule of cooling (1x120 per block plus and extra 120) so you will me more than good...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Can you please explain how QDCs can be used with rotaries? I don't see where the slack to remove the male from the female QDC will come from. The only reason I got 3 pieces of soft tubing is to give slack at the 3 sets of QDCs.
> 
> I never had any plan to do an actual build till the next major CPU/GPU silicon process hit but hanging around OCN got addictive. So I told myself I would go air cooled in the beginning to ease into the process. then convinced myself to go with an AIO for the CPU. Of course, just any AIO would not do so I considered the Swiftech H220 and then realized there was a H320 version with 360mm of radiator space. Since this was not available for sale in the US, I decided to "upgrade" to a Swiftech H20-320 Elite kit. But I did not like the compromise of having a rad/res combo as well as a CPU block/pump combo and so here I finally ended up with well over a grand spent on watercooling stuff already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So ya, if you can convince me how to retain the functionality of my loop but with acrylic- who knows? I was probably going to go copper tubing next time round since I already have tons of experience with hard tubing and have all the tools necessary. Heck, I got industrial connectors and valves that run an average of $80 per fitting but those are for ultra-pure, ultra-low vacuum systems and totally overkill for liquid cooling.


Sorry, was getting a little work done on my build.

What i had in mind when i said that about connecting with rotaries is wayy more complicated when i think it through. Like 90* rotary -> 90* fitting -> QDC -> QDC -> 90* fitting -> 90* rotary. Positioned so you can swing the rotaries in opposite directions to separate the QDC's.

It was a much simpler idea before i tried to put the loop together in my head









Still, it's not uncommon for people with acrylic builds to use short runs of tubing, especially norprene cuz it's more stealth, to connect their QDC's.

Like i said before, the only reason i recommended acrylic was because you mentioned changing tubing and i noticed how short and straight your tubing runs were already. It looks like you could pipe up most of your rig with BP Crystal Link's









Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me out with something? I hear my mcp35x pump speed fluctuating by itself. When I look at the pump speed in the bios its at around 2000rpm is that right? Should I set it to 50%? How should I control this thing?


It just sounds like the one common downside to PWM controlling pumps. Pumps generally make the most noise when they're shifting gears, & a PWM pump with a slope that changes alot is obviously gonna shift gears alot.

Also, DDC's are known to be noisier than D5's.

I recommend going into whatever software you're controlling it with and giving the control a flatter slope so it's not constantly raising and dropping rpms

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that one feeds off of the PSU only, so it will have no issue powering a massive amount of fans. If you want one with control you will have to find the one with the 3 pin power source.
> 
> 
> 
> I was trying to figure out how to connect a 3 speed fan controller to it. Maybe I can run the 4 pin molex from the psu to the fan switch and then a 4 pin molex from the fan switch to the power distributor pcb? The fan switch I speak of is built in on my Corsair 650D.
> 
> I think the switch has a molex connection. If so, I could probably go with another variation of that pcb.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure the Phobya version makes no use of the 5v wire on the molex, so there would be no issue using a Molex -> 3Pin adapter and connecting it to a fan channel. 

Or using any of the ModMyToys PCB's that have a 3Pin Power Source and running that from a fan channel 

The 12v signal will work fine with all your fans. The thing you need to keep an eye on his how many amps/watts your fan header on your controller can handle.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If the EK rad up top has ports on both sides then you're on the start to a winning fill / top up solution.
> I like the fill from top of case better than taking liquid inside to top up res option.
> You'll still have to vent air out though - and the res will be the spot it congregates, so I would recommend one of those air bleeded vents that Bitspower and others are now selling.
> So fill through the top of top rad and push button on resi to vent air out.
> 
> I modified pretty much every rad I had to have ports on both sides of the inlet / outlet chambers.
> comes in real handy for fill ports when up top OR drain port when down on the floor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a Hardware Labs GTX 420 with extra ports fitted on roof mount - and Alphacool in front with ports everywhere !!


I've considered doing something similar before, but i'm always too scurred to take a drill to my radiators =\

It's good to know that it can be done without issues. +1

Do you just drill the hole and tap it like you normally would anything else? I have G1/4 tap set. I just worry about it not being water-tight...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've considered doing something similar before, but i'm always too scurred to take a drill to my radiators =\
> It's good to know that it can be done without issues. +1
> 
> Do you just drill the hole and tap it like you normally would anything else? I have G1/4 tap set. I just worry about it not being water-tight...


No - it's not so easy - as the material on the rad chambers would be too thin to work with for tapping and screwing successfully.
I think you would struggle to get a seal just screwing into the chamber - even after trying to tap.
I got copper inserts from car radiator shop.
Used G1/4 tap to put the internal threads to accept compression fittings or plugs or whatever.
Then brazed the inserts into holes drilled into the rad chambers.
After - each rad was pressure tested with compressed air while submerged in tub of water.

rad's original ports and my ports on the right.
So the paint needs doing but you can see the job done under the paint.
oops - nearly went right though that chamber with the drill


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Hi guys
> I'm finally considering to properly water cool my rig. Since I'm new to all this I have few questions.
> 
> Since I don't have much room in the front of my case so I was thinking of going with koolance 3x120 30fpi. I'm planing to cool cpu (I7 [email protected]), mobo (asus M5G) and 1x r9 290. I was wondering if that rad can do the job.
> 
> Also you can look at my BUILD LOG if you have any suggestion how can I do my loop.
> 
> Thanks


Hey its u..u won LTT botw!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> No - it's not so easy - as the material on the rad chambers would be too thin to work with for tapping and screwing successfully.
> I think you would struggle to get a seal just screwing into the chamber - even after trying to tap.
> I got copper inserts from car radiator shop.
> Used G1/4 tap to put the internal threads to accept compression fittings or plugs or whatever.
> Then brazed the inserts into holes drilled into the rad chambers.
> After - each rad was pressure tested with compressed air while submerged in tub of water.
> 
> rad's original ports and my ports on the right.
> So the paint needs doing but you can see the job done under the paint.
> oops - nearly went right though that chamber with the drill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanx for the great explanation!!

That really is a tight mod. Really appreciate you responding to my question. Woulda sucked when i went to tap the chamber without an insert


----------



## B NEGATIVE

XSPC dual DDC top.

Gaze upon the pron!


----------



## HeyBear

Hey guys,

Just been looking over some watercooling equipment and noticed that Watercool now have a block out compatible with the 780/titan and 780ti. Do you know if any compromises are being made over a waterblock that is designed specifically for the 780ti?

Here's the block design:


I haven't seen any mention of a Watercool 780ti block, so I think this is new. Apologies if it has come up before.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> XSPC dual DDC top.
> 
> Gaze upon the pron!


----------



## JebusChytrus

I've bought 16/10mm Primoflex tubing but there is no ******* way to put it on a 16/10mm swiftech lok-seal fitting







Previously i had masterkleer 16/10 tubing, it was a tight fit but i managed to screw it on. Now ive measured my fittings and OD of the fitting is 11mm so its hardly compatible with 9.5mm tubing. Olso MY "primochill" tubing has OD of 17mm and ID of 9mm. I think i might got scammed because even tough i ordered 2 meters of tubing they sent me it packed in a plastic bag withouth the primochill box. Should i get 16/11mm tubing or some kind of 15,9/11,1mm in that case?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JebusChytrus*
> 
> I've bought 16/10mm Primoflex tubing but there is no ******* way to put it on a 16/10mm swiftech lok-seal fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously i had masterkleer 16/10 tubing, it was a tight fit but i managed to screw it on. Now ive measured my fittings and OD of the fitting is 11mm so its hardly compatible with 9.5mm tubing. Olso MY "primochill" tubing has OD of 17mm and ID of 9mm. I think i might got scammed because even tough *i ordered 2 meters of tubing they sent me it packed in a plastic bag withouth the primochill box*. Should i get 16/11mm tubing or some kind of 15,9/11,1mm in that case?


that is how companies send it out if you order custom lengths. The primochill box is reserved for 10 feet of the tubing.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*


looks great but somehow the old fully clear one looks better lol


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Ok guys its 37c/99f today outside temps inside about 3-4 degrees cooler hitting 58c with fans at 1200 and 56c with them at 1600rpm when playing metro last light,would another 240 rad front intake with sp fans give me any better temps....?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Anyone want to school a noob on this....?


With that high of an ambient temperature I'm not sure how much better your temps would be with an additional radiator. You might see a few degree drop but i doubt it would be anything drastic. I think your best option for lowing temps would be to lower your ambient temperature. Window AC unit perhaps? TBH though, those temps really don't seem that bad considering the high ambient.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JebusChytrus*
> 
> I've bought 16/10mm Primoflex tubing but there is no ******* way to put it on a 16/10mm swiftech lok-seal fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously i had masterkleer 16/10 tubing, it was a tight fit but i managed to screw it on. Now ive measured my fittings and OD of the fitting is 11mm so its hardly compatible with 9.5mm tubing. Olso MY "primochill" tubing has OD of 17mm and ID of 9mm. I think i might got scammed because even tough i ordered 2 meters of tubing they sent me it packed in a plastic bag withouth the primochill box. Should i get 16/11mm tubing or some kind of 15,9/11,1mm in that case?


At least you got a bag. When I ordered my tubing it came with a zip tie holding it rolled together. It's normal to see slight variation in tubing size between brands. Even the fittings variy in size a little. I know my 7/16" tubing is tighter on XSPC 1/2" barbs than EK 1/2" barbs. Try heating up the end of the tube in some hot water so soften it. That'll make it easier to slide the tubing over the fitting.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> looks great but somehow the old fully clear one looks better lol


I'm partial to this look as it looks similar to their full coverage GPU blocks.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I'm partial to this look as it looks similar to their full coverage GPU blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JebusChytrus*
> 
> I've bought 16/10mm Primoflex tubing but there is no ******* way to put it on a 16/10mm swiftech lok-seal fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously i had masterkleer 16/10 tubing, it was a tight fit but i managed to screw it on. Now ive measured my fittings and OD of the fitting is 11mm so its hardly compatible with 9.5mm tubing. Olso MY "primochill" tubing has OD of 17mm and ID of 9mm. I think i might got scammed because even tough i ordered 2 meters of tubing they sent me it packed in a plastic bag withouth the primochill box. Should i get 16/11mm tubing or some kind of 15,9/11,1mm in that case?


Agreed. It match all their blocks(GPU, Raystorm, and RAM blocks). I really like that look. Never been too much of a fan of full acrylic pump tops or even plexi GPU blocks.


----------



## JebusChytrus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> that is how companies send it out if you order custom lengths. The primochill box is reserved for 10 feet of the tubing.


Oh, my bad its 3m box not 2m.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Try heating up the end of the tube in some hot water so soften it. That'll make it easier to slide the tubing over the fitting.


But the OD is more than 16mm so there is no way i can screw down my compression fitting after i put the tubing on.

So should i get 15,9 OD and 11mm ID tubing?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JebusChytrus*
> 
> Oh, my bad its 3m box not 2m.
> But the OD is more than 16mm so there is no way i can screw down my compression fitting after i put the tubing on.
> 
> So should i get 15,9 OD and 11mm ID tubing?


The compression ring won't catch any threads at all? I doubt you'll find anything that is exactly 15.9mm. 16mm would be the closest you'd get I imagine. Especially considering most of the time WC'ing tube manufacturers advertise 5/8" and 16mm as the same thing when really there is a difference of .125mm


----------



## JebusChytrus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The compression ring won't catch any threads at all? I doubt you'll find anything that is exactly 15.9mm. 16mm would be the closest you'd get I imagine. Especially considering most of the time WC'ing tube manufacturers advertise 5/8" and 16mm as the same thing when really there is a difference of .125mm


Compression ring is tight on the tubing by itself and the barb is getting bit wider at the end making it impossible to screw the compression ring on.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I was trying to figure out how to connect a 3 speed fan controller to it. Maybe I can run the 4 pin molex from the psu to the fan switch and then a 4 pin molex from the fan switch to the power distributor pcb? The fan switch I speak of is built in on my Corsair 650D.
> 
> I think the switch has a molex connection. If so, I could probably go with another variation of that pcb.


sounds like you want the 3 pin variant of the unit then.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I was trying to figure out how to connect a 3 speed fan controller to it. Maybe I can run the 4 pin molex from the psu to the fan switch and then a 4 pin molex from the fan switch to the power distributor pcb? The fan switch I speak of is built in on my Corsair 650D.
> 
> I think the switch has a molex connection. If so, I could probably go with another variation of that pcb.


Bitspower X-Station and those splitter PCB's with *3-pins* on them will serve you nicely. 12V, 7V, and 5V capabilities.

-Zepp


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Today is the day!! Love seeing this!


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Today is the day!! Love seeing this!


No no no! You don't get to open your Christmas present early! You have to wait till Wednesday the 25th to open them!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> No no no! You don't get to open your Christmas present early! You have to wait till Wednesday the 25th to open them!


BUT mooooooooom


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> No no no! You don't get to open your Christmas present early! You have to wait till Wednesday the 25th to open them!
> 
> 
> 
> BUT mooooooooom
Click to expand...

HA! i get to open my presents christmas eve







but thats how i felt when i gave my mom my list of wanted parts and she said there was no way in h£€¢ she was getting it all... i didnt add up all the prices :/


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> HA! i get to open my presents christmas eve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but thats how i felt when i gave my mom my list of wanted parts and she said there was no way in h£€¢ she was getting it all... i didnt add up all the prices :/


lulz







I actually am getting a nice Seagul 12-string guitar for Christmas.

I maxed out my own credit card for this order that is coming today so there is no way in hell I'm waiting to open it. My three 7950's and G.Skill RAM are naked and cold


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> HA! i get to open my presents christmas eve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but thats how i felt when i gave my mom my list of wanted parts and she said there was no way in h£€¢ she was getting it all... i didnt add up all the prices :/


I don't even bother making a list of WC'ing gear I want. I just say give me the money towards it and I'll buy it myself. Much easier that way. This year is different though. My dog just had surgery to repair a torn ACL, so that was my birthday(Dec 14) and Christmas gift this year.
@Ravage, I expect to see a picture of a large pile of gear in the next few hours


----------



## Radmanhs

i just gave her links to the exact parts i wanted, if i jusf got money she would tell me to spend it on other things hahaha.

im sorry to hear about your dog, that must be a very interesting gift. its aldo hard for me to get stuff since my bday is jan 1st and she just spent money on me about a week prior


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I don't even bother making a list of WC'ing gear I want. I just say give me the money towards it and I'll buy it myself. Much easier that way. This year is different though. My dog just had surgery to repair a torn ACL, so that was my birthday(Dec 14) and Christmas gift this year.
> @Ravage, I expect to see a picture of a large pile of gear in the next few hours


Haha its not too large. Just the last stuffs I need to get up and running. Here is the list.


I'll definitely post pics. Looks like it's not going to come before I have to leave for work









CRAP I forgot to grab distilled water!

Glad to hear your pup is alright!


----------



## ikem

well i ordered my supremacy vga blocks! Im going to be pushing it on rad space, but I think it will be ok with a little higher fan speed.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> XSPC dual DDC top.
> 
> Gaze upon the pron!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Might grab this one, depending on the type of compatibility.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Bitspower X-Station and those splitter PCB's with *3-pins* on them will serve you nicely. 12V, 7V, and 5V capabilities.
> 
> -Zepp


Yup got 4 coming!

Also Order #4 is in



Picked out a few diff fittings and stoppers, just to see how they'd look since they're so cheap.

All thats left is

Res
Pump - Got a thread going for this
Tubing(most places are out of clear)
fans (still looking for cheaper prices) - Got a thread blowing up with this.
fittings - easy once I see the gear
fan controller - Debating between 2 atm as the aqueros is nice and all but not digging the all white/black screen, was hoping for color ?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=37182 was looking @ these too.

I'm almost at the starting point !









So I now have, including the list above.

4x UT60's
backplates for the remainder of the Titans
3 Titans (won my last one on ebay last night







)
TH10
4960X
Raystorm Cpu block
And everything in the new sig.

If I'm missing out on anything lemme know.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> i just gave her links to the exact parts i wanted, if i jusf got money she would tell me to spend it on other things hahaha.
> 
> im sorry to hear about your dog, that must be a very interesting gift. its aldo hard for me to get stuff since my bday is jan 1st and she just spent money on me about a week prior


I usually send links too, but she prefers to just give me the money so she doesn't screw it up lol
My dog will be alright once she's completely healed. Still has to wear the cone of shame for another week though lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> i just gave her links to the exact parts i wanted, if i jusf got money she would tell me to spend it on other things hahaha.
> 
> im sorry to hear about your dog, that must be a very interesting gift. its aldo hard for me to get stuff since my bday is jan 1st and she just spent money on me about a week prior
> 
> 
> 
> I usually send links too, but she prefers to just give me the money so she doesn't screw it up lol
> My dog will be alright once she's completely healed. Still has to wear the cone of shame for another week though lol
Click to expand...

Magoo had to wear one of those once.....He had several people killed to make up for the indignity.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magoo had to wear one of those once.....He had several people killed to make up for the indignity.


lol I bet he did
She doesn't seem to mind it too much because she knows she gets treats whn it goes on. I feel bad for her though because she bumps into everything with it


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> lol I bet he did
> She doesn't seem to mind it too much because she knows she gets treats whn it goes on. I feel bad for her though because she bumps into everything with it


I remember when my dog had one. Kept walking into stuff and got stuck in between furniture. She would just cry after a while because she did not understand what was going on.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> lol I bet he did
> She doesn't seem to mind it too much because she knows she gets treats whn it goes on. I feel bad for her though because she bumps into everything with it


My poor dog was the same. She had to wear one and she is an old blind lady. I think it gave her a complex.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I remember when my dog had one. Kept walking into stuff and got stuck in between furniture. She would just cry after a while because she did not understand what was going on.


Yeah, I have to lock her in the spare room at home so she can't jump on any furniture or use the steps. So when I get home and let her out she tries squeezing her head out as soon as I start opening the door but the cone keeps pushing it shut and she starts crying lol It's comedic and sad at the same time


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yeah, I have to lock her in the spare room at home so she can't jump on any furniture or use the steps. So when I get home and let her out she tries squeezing her head out as soon as I start opening the door but the cone keeps pushing it shut and she starts crying lol It's comedic and sad at the same time


Poor thing. I sure hope he/she gets well soon. It's heart breaking to see them bump into stuff and cry.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Poor thing. I sure hope he/she gets well soon. It's heart breaking to see them bump into stuff and cry.


Thanks. She's confined for another month


----------



## Radmanhs

poor doggy. my mom would really try to mess up to f up my list lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Just been looking over some watercooling equipment and noticed that Watercool now have a block out compatible with the 780/titan and 780ti. Do you know if any compromises are being made over a waterblock that is designed specifically for the 780ti?
> 
> Here's the block design:
> 
> 
> I haven't seen any mention of a Watercool 780ti block, so I think this is new. Apologies if it has come up before.


There are some slight differences between the 780ti and the 780. Due to these slight differences though blocks for a 780 won't properly cool a 780ti. They're close, but not close enough. There appear to be some extra VRMs on the 780ti that need cooling that a block for a 780 won't make contact with. We're working on a card specifically for the 780ti right now. I've seen it and I can tell you that it's simply gorgeous.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Just been looking over some watercooling equipment and noticed that Watercool now have a block out compatible with the 780/titan and 780ti. Do you know if any compromises are being made over a waterblock that is designed specifically for the 780ti?
> 
> Here's the block design:
> 
> 
> I haven't seen any mention of a Watercool 780ti block, so I think this is new. Apologies if it has come up before.


The block will work for all three. The only difference is a few extra VRMs on the Ti. There really is no need for a manufacturer to have a seperarte block for each card. They should only have to make 2 small changes and they are compatible for all three.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magoo had to wear one of those once.....He had several people killed to make up for the indignity.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, then it's going to ramp up and ramp down based on your CPU temperature. I think with that board though you will need to activate the option that allows you to control it with AI Suite. Then you can set your own curve for it. Keep in mind that AI Suite can be a bit buggy at times.


This is how I control my MCP655 PWM. To keep the pump from ramping up/down all the time, I set the curve in FanXpert at something like 40% at temps when Im not gaming and at around 75% when I am gaming, then 100% for prime95 temps region. It seems to work well.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> This is how I control my MCP655 PWM. To keep the pump from ramping up/down all the time, I set the curve in FanXpert at something like 40% at temps when Im not gaming and at around 75% when I am gaming, then 100% for prime95 temps region. It seems to work well.


My board has a min and max percentage. If I set both ro lets say 50% then im assuming thats where it would stay. Quick question though, what is a good performance/quite ratio for my mcp35x?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> My board has a min and max percentage. If I set both ro lets say 50% then im assuming thats where it would stay. Quick question though, what is a good performance/quite ratio for my mcp35x?


That's very subjective and the only way to know is to play around with it. Being that my hearing isn't all that great from previously working on the flight decks of aircraft carriers I'm really not the best person for answering that.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> With that high of an ambient temperature I'm not sure how much better your temps would be with an additional radiator. You might see a few degree drop but i doubt it would be anything drastic. I think your best option for lowing temps would be to lower your ambient temperature. Window AC unit perhaps? TBH though, those temps really don't seem that bad considering the high ambient.
> .


Thats what i was afraid of,not seeing much of a change in temps,and the funny thing is that it will get even hotter....Going to bed last night the temps dropped a few degrees down to 31c and that was at 12 midnight







When i did use a thermometer yesturday after gaming the room temp was actually 40c guess with that kind of ambient there is only so much water cooling can do,funny thing thats why i water cooled my loop last year when it did hit 42c i couldnt game on air my reference 670's shot up 90c within minutes of game and the cards sounded like jet engines @ 100% fan curve trying to keep cool....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thats what i was afraid of,not seeing much of a change in temps,and the funny thing is that it will get even hotter....Going to bed last night the temps dropped a few degrees down to 31c and that was at 12 midnight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When i did use a thermometer yesturday after gaming the room temp was actually 40c guess with that kind of ambient there is only so much water cooling can do,funny thing thats why i water cooled my loop last year when it did hit 42c i couldnt game on air my reference 670's shot up 90c within minutes of game and the cards sounded like jet engines @ 100% fan curve trying to keep cool....


considering your current ambient temps your system temps looks quite ok to me. Almost 40 C ambient and 56 C in the blocks sounds good.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How do you like it? This is what I am looking at for my FT02BW ESXi box. No way I am using this POS Koolance RP402-X2 again.








#

Went in fine, will switch the rest over when i sober up in January!.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #
> 
> Went in fine, will switch the rest over when i sober up in January!.


Isn't that a TJ08B-E and not an FT02-BW? Or are you taking that gear out to put it in an FT02-BW?

Edit: just realized I wasn't seeing that post correctly on my phone, sorry.


----------



## khemist

I think he wants to switch his FT02 bits to a TJ08.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> My board has a min and max percentage. If I set both ro lets say 50% then im assuming thats where it would stay. Quick question though, what is a good performance/quite ratio for my mcp35x?


That's how I did it. 50% is not that loud on mcp35... I could hear the water in the res more than I could hear the pumps @ 50%(mcp35x2)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> lol I bet he did
> She doesn't seem to mind it too much because she knows she gets treats whn it goes on. I feel bad for her though because she bumps into everything with it


The cone just came off of my eldest Basenji (she had some growths removed) I'm convinced she enjoyed knocking into things/stuff over. She would also thwack people with the cone for attention. OOPS off topic. I couldn't resist.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the Phobya version makes no use of the 5v wire on the molex, so there would be no issue using a Molex -> 3Pin adapter and connecting it to a fan channel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or using any of the ModMyToys PCB's that have a 3Pin Power Source and running that from a fan channel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I originally wanted to get the Phobya version, but they're sold out. I went ahead and ordered a ModMyToys 8 x 3pin fan pcb with 4 pin molex power input. It'll get the job done in the meantime, however I'm not sure if I'll be able to configure it so that I'll be able to control the voltage. It didn't cost much anyway so if push comes to shove then I'll probably look at the 3pin power input fan pcb.

Got a big order on the way from PPC!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Products
9 x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-3 120mm x 25mm Ultra Silent Bionic Blade Fan - 1900 RPM - 26.5 dBA
- Sleeve Color: Black
- Heatshrink Color: Black $206.55
1 x *** NEW *** PrimoChill CTR™ Compression Tube Reservoir System - 240mm UV Green $39.95
2 x *** NEW *** PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid Acrylic Tubing - 24in - UV Green (4 Pack) $39.90
1 x Swiftech D5 Pump Housing Custom G1/4 Threads $6.95
1 x Swiftech MCP655™ Series 12 VDC Water Pumps - Bare $66.95
2 x PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression 3/8in ID x 1/2in OD Fitting - Anodized White $13.90
3 x PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression 3/8in ID x 1/2in OD Fitting - Anodized White (4pack) $74.85
1 x ModMyToys 4-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 8-Way Block
- 3pin Female-to-Female Ext Cable: No Cable
- 4pin Molex to 3pin Cable Adapter: No Cable $4.75
1 x Phobya valve with 2 x G1/4" IG-connection $12.95
1 x XSPC G1/4" 5mm Male to Male Fitting - Black Chrome Finish $1.99
1 x *** NEW *** XSPC G1/4″ 90° Rotary Fitting - Black Chrome Finish $4.49
1 x Primochill Clear PMMA Tower Plug 3" - UV LED $7.95
1 x IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip $6.99

Sub-Total: $488.17
United States Postal Service (Priority Mail™ (With Tracking)): $15.57
Shipping Insurance declined: $0.00
Total: $503.74


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> considering your current ambient temps your system temps looks quite ok to me. Almost 40 C ambient and 56 C in the blocks sounds good.


Guess i should be happy with this kind of temps with the ambient we have or will be having,like the wife would say i'm just looking for an excuse to spend money,she just doesnt understand that my pc has been good all year round and santa (me) needs to get it something for being nice and not naughty....


----------



## Alex132

Anyone who said the 800D had lots of room behind the motherboard tray lied











Also just spent 7 hours cleaning and replacing my loop


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's very subjective and the only way to know is to play around with it. Being that my hearing isn't all that great from previously working on the flight decks of aircraft carriers I'm really not the best person for answering that.


For right now I just set my min max to 35% - 50%. I hope that's good enough.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

AGHHHH FEDEX I HATE YOUUU!!!! Ring my doorbell and leave with my package after 15 seconds because someone wasn't there to sign it immediately. Now I have to wait until tomorrow :-(

I was so excited :-(


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> AGHHHH FEDEX I HATE YOUUU!!!! Ring my doorbell and leave with my package after 15 seconds because someone wasn't there to sign it immediately. Now I have to wait until tomorrow :-(
> 
> I was so excited :-(


I hate signature release


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> AGHHHH FEDEX I HATE YOUUU!!!! Ring my doorbell and leave with my package after 15 seconds because someone wasn't there to sign it immediately. Now I have to wait until tomorrow :-(
> 
> I was so excited :-(


That sucks,i look forward to my rig orders being delivered more than i look forward to christmas,seeing onboard with driver would be my christmas eve and missing the delivery would be missing christmas....


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> AGHHHH FEDEX I HATE YOUUU!!!! Ring my doorbell and leave with my package after 15 seconds because someone wasn't there to sign it immediately. Now I have to wait until tomorrow :-(
> 
> I was so excited :-(


A little heads up. When I know there's a delivery coming, I'll put a post it on the door letting them know I'm here and they should ring bell several times. Works like a charm.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Anyone who said the 800D had lots of room behind the motherboard tray lied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You trying to stuff a midget in there or something?







Maybe one day they'll completely do away with wires and everything will solely rely on Bluetooth and Wifi signal.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> AGHHHH FEDEX I HATE YOUUU!!!! Ring my doorbell and leave with my package after 15 seconds because someone wasn't there to sign it immediately. Now I have to wait until tomorrow :-(
> 
> I was so excited :-(


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I hate signature release


I usually don't have things shipped to my house anymore for that very reason since I work full time. So I have everything shipped to work, that way I know someone will be there to sign for it. Plus it keeps the missus off my back lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, then it's going to ramp up and ramp down based on your CPU temperature. I think with that board though you will need to activate the option that allows you to control it with AI Suite. Then you can set your own curve for it. Keep in mind that AI Suite can be a bit buggy at times.
> 
> 
> 
> This is how I control my MCP655 PWM. To keep the pump from ramping up/down all the time, I set the curve in FanXpert at something like 40% at temps when Im not gaming and at around 75% when I am gaming, then 100% for prime95 temps region. It seems to work well.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> This is how I control my MCP655 PWM. To keep the pump from ramping up/down all the time, I set the curve in FanXpert at something like 40% at temps when Im not gaming and at around 75% when I am gaming, then 100% for prime95 temps region. It seems to work well.
> 
> 
> 
> My board has a min and max percentage. If I set both ro lets say 50% then im assuming thats where it would stay. Quick question though, what is a good performance/quite ratio for my mcp35x?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> My board has a min and max percentage. If I set both ro lets say 50% then im assuming thats where it would stay. Quick question though, what is a good performance/quite ratio for my mcp35x?
> 
> 
> 
> That's how I did it. 50% is not that loud on mcp35... I could hear the water in the res more than I could hear the pumps @ 50%(mcp35x2)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> lol I bet he did
> She doesn't seem to mind it too much because she knows she gets treats whn it goes on. I feel bad for her though because she bumps into everything with it
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The cone just came off of my eldest Basenji (she had some growths removed) I'm convinced she enjoyed knocking into things/stuff over. She would also thwack people with the cone for attention. OOPS off topic. I couldn't resist.
Click to expand...

The 35X can be a bit quirky.

Never expect the PWM percentage to be directly numerically related to the percentage of max speed.

They run at minimum speed at anything below ~17% and max speed comes in by ~50%, sometimes a lil more, sometimes a tad less . . . .Pay NO Attention to the published graph.

I have yet to find a 35X that needs even 60% pulse width for max rpm.

You'll want to keep your control ramp in the 20% to 40% pulse width range to keep the pump from big rpm swings that drive you nuts with the noise.

They behave drastically differently than a CPU fan which is really quite linear, so you really need to not use a normal CPU fan curve

I actually did a god bit of testing on the 35X and PWM D5 over the summer when I built the calibrated PWM controllers.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

derp, opened my bios after reading that. I was pushing them @ 35%x2 Below 30% they wouldn't come on some times.


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There are some slight differences between the 780ti and the 780. Due to these slight differences though blocks for a 780 won't properly cool a 780ti. They're close, but not close enough. There appear to be some extra VRMs on the 780ti that need cooling that a block for a 780 won't make contact with. We're working on a card specifically for the 780ti right now. I've seen it and I can tell you that it's simply gorgeous.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The block will work for all three. The only difference is a few extra VRMs on the Ti. There really is no need for a manufacturer to have a seperarte block for each card. They should only have to make 2 small changes and they are compatible for all three.






Thanks guys,

I've done a little more digging since getting back from work and there have definitely been some changes since the first revision of the heatkiller, not just a rename:



The block on the left is the previous model, the right shows the sections that have been extended to accommodate the 780 ti. The water channels seem to be exactly the same though.



I'm not that clued up on this though, so i'm not sure if there's something that might not be getting optimal cooling in order to fit all the PCB's though.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 35X can be a bit quirky.
> 
> Never expect the PWM percentage to be directly numerically related to the percentage of max speed.
> 
> They run at minimum speed at anything below ~17% and max speed comes in by ~50%, sometimes a lil more, sometimes a tad less . . . .Pay NO Attention to the published graph.
> 
> I have yet to find a 35X that needs even 60% pulse width for max rpm.
> 
> You'll want to keep your control ramp in the 20% to 40% pulse width range to keep the pump from big rpm swings that drive you nuts with the noise.
> 
> They behave drastically differently than a CPU fan which is really quite linear, so you really need to not use a normal CPU fan curve
> 
> I actually did a god bit of testing on the 35X and PWM D5 over the summer when I built the calibrated PWM controllers.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks! I did find that percentage does not directly correlate with RPM speed. I also did find that 20%-25% is the ideal noise ratio. I am using 35%-50% only because Martin mentions that the user should not go under 30% even with a low restrictive loop. So you think I will be ok with a range of 20%-40%?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 35X can be a bit quirky.
> 
> Never expect the PWM percentage to be directly numerically related to the percentage of max speed.
> 
> They run at minimum speed at anything below ~17% and max speed comes in by ~50%, sometimes a lil more, sometimes a tad less . . . .Pay NO Attention to the published graph.
> 
> I have yet to find a 35X that needs even 60% pulse width for max rpm.
> 
> You'll want to keep your control ramp in the 20% to 40% pulse width range to keep the pump from big rpm swings that drive you nuts with the noise.
> 
> They behave drastically differently than a CPU fan which is really quite linear, so you really need to not use a normal CPU fan curve
> 
> I actually did a god bit of testing on the 35X and PWM D5 over the summer when I built the calibrated PWM controllers.
> 
> Darlene


Great info as always Darlene. I'll keep all this in mind when I get my two 35x's set up


----------



## skupples

So, i'm getting ready to fill, leak test, bla blah, my loop. Was about to hot wire my PSU when I realized I couldn't actually see the green & Black wire on this model... Does anyone remember which pins it is? I feel like I remember it being pin 17 & 19... Can anyone verify?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks! I did find that percentage does not directly correlate with RPM speed. I also did find that 20%-25% is the ideal noise ratio. I am using 35%-50% only because Martin mentions that the user should not go under 30% even with a low restrictive loop. So you think I will be ok with a range of 20%-40%?


I would just set it to one flat speed. The revving will drive you mad eventually.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I hate signature release


I know man complete BS I don't live in the ghetto no reason to need a signature especially with Mr. FedEx man in a rush.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> That sucks,i look forward to my rig orders being delivered more than i look forward to christmas,seeing onboard with driver would be my christmas eve and missing the delivery would be missing christmas....


Agreed. Completely. I ordered on Monday and the anticipation was building the entire week and then this happens. Such a let down :-(
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> A little heads up. When I know there's a delivery coming, I'll put a post it on the door letting them know I'm here and they should ring bell several times. Works like a charm.


That's a good idea. If they read the note they will feel too guilty to leave.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I usually don't have things shipped to my house anymore for that very reason since I work full time. So I have everything shipped to work, that way I know someone will be there to sign for it. Plus it keeps the missus off my back lol


That is a brilliant idea. I work at a hotel and there is always someone here to sign for me I think I will just do that from now on. Thanks!

Off topic: this multiquote was the hardest task I've ever had to perform on my phone. Well, that sucked! Glad its over. Now I can finally post!!


----------



## Jorvin

anyone had this problem?
when i took my ek ram block apart it was only one screw that was the right length, needed to cut down some 30mm rad screws to put it back together







also starting to get nickel flaking on both cpu and ram block, are the old en block's so not so suprised


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, i'm getting ready to fill, leak test, bla blah, my loop. Was about to hot wire my PSU when I realized I couldn't actually see the green & Black wire on this model... Does anyone remember which pins it is? I feel like I remember it being pin 1 & 3... Can anyone verify?
> I would just set it to one flat speed. The revving will drive you mad eventually.


Four and five if I remember correctly. With the clip facing up.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, i'm getting ready to fill, leak test, bla blah, my loop. Was about to hot wire my PSU when I realized I couldn't actually see the green & Black wire on this model... Does anyone remember which pins it is? I feel like I remember it being pin 17 & 19... Can anyone verify?


Go by this pic:


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Four and five if I remember correctly. With the clip facing up.


I just checked on this "TUV" version, the top rack (clip side) are all double digits. So, i'm thinking it may be 17&19... It's my EVGA G2 1300w..


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 35X can be a bit quirky.
> 
> Never expect the PWM percentage to be directly numerically related to the percentage of max speed.
> 
> They run at minimum speed at anything below ~17% and max speed comes in by ~50%, sometimes a lil more, sometimes a tad less . . . .Pay NO Attention to the published graph.
> 
> I have yet to find a 35X that needs even 60% pulse width for max rpm.
> 
> You'll want to keep your control ramp in the 20% to 40% pulse width range to keep the pump from big rpm swings that drive you nuts with the noise.
> 
> They behave drastically differently than a CPU fan which is really quite linear, so you really need to not use a normal CPU fan curve
> 
> I actually did a god bit of testing on the 35X and PWM D5 over the summer when I built the calibrated PWM controllers.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I did find that percentage does not directly correlate with RPM speed. I also did find that 20%-25% is the ideal noise ratio. I am using 35%-50% only because Martin mentions that the user should not go under 30% even with a low restrictive loop. So you think I will be ok with a range of 20%-40%?
Click to expand...

I believe he was referring to 30% of max rpm, which would be at less than 30% pulse width.

You could set min at 25% pulse width, and then see what that gets for rpm, and then decide if you want to drop to 20% pulse width as a minimum.

I'll see if I can find where I posted the results of my testing.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Go by this pic:


They are all wired the same? I'm seeing different guides showing different places. I know you can go off of any black (ground)


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

The green is that fourth one out all the time. All the same.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> The green is that fourth one out all the time. All the same.


Thanks for enlightening my ignorance once again! If I never post again it's because I blew up my system, & then threw it into the ocean.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks for enlightening my ignorance once again! If I never post again it's because I blew up my system, & then threw it into the ocean.


Haha don't worry you will be fine its definitely as shown in the picture on your PSU since the 24 pin ATX side that plugs into the mobo is the same on every PSU. So you can do 3 and 4, 4 and 5, or any other combination with black and green that you want as long as the clip is facing up! Have fun leak testing. I'm going to do mine tomorrow (clenches fist) thanks to FEDEX


----------



## RickRockerr

I just looked inside of my old rad and saw this:

Is that something to worry about?


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I just looked inside of my old rad and saw this:
> 
> Is that something to worry about?


the solder? or discoloration?


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> the solder? or discoloration?


Oh, those are just solders







I didn't think it through


----------



## skupples

Looks pretty typical, if you really wanted to you could flush it with extremely diluted vinegar, but the discoloration/oxidation will come back pretty quickly.

anyone know of any non-permanent, non-conductive adhesives? Having issues keeping the new face plate stuck to my Aquaero 6, people in that thread were little help. The original stuff was really sticky/gel'like material.


----------



## IT Diva

I did a bit of tweaking on my pump res modules to make them a bit more "modular". . . . .

Added valves to be able to block off portions of the loops for upgrades or maintenance and oriented the inlets and outlets to work with the rest of the hardware and planned setup.

It's starting to look just like a futuristic nuclear plant . . . .

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Futuristic nuclear plant = Thorium!!!








glorious D.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> A little heads up. When I know there's a delivery coming, I'll put a post it on the door letting them know I'm here and they should ring bell several times. Works like a charm.


I leave notes and it doesn't work and more often then not its because they don't want to drop it off (either lazy or they fell behind on their route). Usps is notorious for doing this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I usually don't have things shipped to my house anymore for that very reason since I work full time. So I have everything shipped to work, that way I know someone will be there to sign for it. *Plus it keeps the missus off my back* lol


Hehe, smart man









Postman was able to get my top in early today. I'll have to wait for later today to install it.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I did a bit of tweaking on my pump res modules to make them a bit more "modular". . . . .
> 
> Added valves to be able to block off portions of the loops for upgrades or maintenance and oriented the inlets and outlets to work with the rest of the hardware and planned setup.
> 
> It's starting to look just like a futuristic nuclear plant . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A futuristic nuclear power plant straight from the U.S. of A! Jesum Cripes Darlene. Stunning.










but my general manager just came up to me and handed me a pretty much brand new InFocus $1000 projector since corporate let us buy a new one. YES!!


----------



## skupples

Time to get a second one & run seamless surround.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I did a bit of tweaking on my pump res modules to make them a bit more "modular". . . . .
> 
> Added valves to be able to block off portions of the loops for upgrades or maintenance and oriented the inlets and outlets to work with the rest of the hardware and planned setup.
> 
> It's starting to look just like a futuristic nuclear plant . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I still say that Walter White would get aroused looking at that setup (Rest In Peace)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> AGHHHH FEDEX I HATE YOUUU!!!! Ring my doorbell and leave with my package after 15 seconds because someone wasn't there to sign it immediately. Now I have to wait until tomorrow :-(
> 
> I was so excited :-(


This happens on a regular occurrence w/ me, I've caught them bolting to their truck to get away, its like they want to finish as fast as possible. UPS is far worse. I'm in the midst of looking for a good home security system online w/ wirless cameras vs running cables throughout the house, and a sensor to trigger an SMS alert or beep in the house when someones near the door.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I did a bit of tweaking on my pump res modules to make them a bit more "modular". . . . .
> 
> Added valves to be able to block off portions of the loops for upgrades or maintenance and oriented the inlets and outlets to work with the rest of the hardware and planned setup.
> 
> It's starting to look just like a futuristic nuclear plant . . . .
> 
> Darlene


There's the nuclear power plant I was talking about.







Amazing work as always Diva!


----------



## stickg1

I decided to go with a 240mm rad and two 120mm rads, mostly for easier layout, however, would this be more or less efficient at dissipating heat than the 2x 240mm rads I planned on originally?

(Original Plan) = 2x Swiftech MCR220

(New Plan) = 1 Swiftech MCR220, 1 Watercool HTF2 120mm, 1 EK Coolstream XT 120mm

All 4 120mm fan positions for all mentioned rads regardless of plan are occupied by a Corsair SP120 HP.

Thanks in advance for your input.


----------



## kpoeticg

Same amount of surface area in a 240 or 2 x 120's. The only difference would be restriction, but rads have very low restriction anyway.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This happens on a regular occurrence w/ me, I've caught them bolting to their truck to get away, its like they want to finish as fast as possible. UPS is far worse. I'm in the midst of looking for a good home security system online w/ wirless cameras vs running cables throughout the house, and a sensor to trigger an SMS alert or beep in the house when someones near the door.


Yea I used to work for UPS.

that's all I want to say about that...

Not all the drivers are like that, but a lot are.


----------



## skupples

Hey man, they gotta get them runs done quick! Even if it means they have to come back a second time the next day...


----------



## BradleyW

How should I clean my kettle before heating my distilled water (For flushing the rads)?
Is it fine to use distilled clear vinegar mixed with distilled water for rad flushing? If so, how much vinegar should I apply?
Thank you.


----------



## lowfat

You can just use heated tap water for flushing the rads. Then just do a final rinse with distilled.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can just use heated tap water for flushing the rads. Then just do a final rinse with distilled.


Ah reminds me, when my RAD's arrive should I flush them out prior to hooking them up ?

I grabbed mayhem's dye from PPC's but forgot to grab distilled, what do you guys recommend ? as well as anything additional, I'll be going acrylic. No nickel in my build currently.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can just use heated tap water for flushing the rads. Then just do a final rinse with distilled.


So the chemicals will not cause any issues?


----------



## stickg1

Aww man, I found the pump/top/res combo I wanted 2nd hand for less than half of retail. Went on PPCs.com to order the fittings I had my eye on and they're sold out!!! Just my luck, oh well. I will either settle for something else or keep waiting.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Aww man, I found the pump/top/res combo I wanted 2nd hand for less than half of retail. Went on PPCs.com to order the fittings I had my eye on and they're sold out!!! Just my luck, oh well. I will either settle for something else or keep waiting.


Ya gain some ya lose some! Oh life...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> How should I clean my kettle before heating my distilled water (For flushing the rads)?
> Is it fine to use distilled clear vinegar mixed with distilled water for rad flushing? If so, how much vinegar should I apply?
> Thank you.


I just used straight white vinegar and shake for 30 seconds, then rinse with tap water that is as hot as possible for a couple minutes, and then rinse with distilled. Always worked well for me.


----------



## IT Diva

For you guys wanting to be able to use the I/O heatsink on the RIVBE with an EK chipset / mosfet block, but did not want to cut the heatpipe, . . . .

I've been able to successfully remove the heatpipe, so you can too . . .















Darlene


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For you guys wanting to be able to use the I/O heatsink on the RIVBE with an EK chipset / mosfet block, but did not want to cut the heatpipe, . . . .
> 
> I've been able to successfully remove the heatpipe, so you can too . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1803586/width/800/height/600[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Is that your table saw bench? Looks like it could be a Makita or Hitachi...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right now it looks like both versions of these fans and the issue appears to be related to the IC used for PWM control for these fans. The current used to carry the PWM signal for our fans is quite low, but it appears that Corsairs needs a higher current to register the PWM signal. Since this is the case once you plug in more than 4 fans the current becomes too low for the Corsair fans to detect it and they subsequently run at full speed. This has been confirmed by our engineer here.


Ok so I did some testing and your PWM splitter is not the only factor involved. It also depends on the fan controller used. For example, using my Aquaero 6 I could control 6 fans/splitter whereas others in another thread have reported being able to control all 8 channels using a motherboard PWM header. In either case, 6 fans/splitter almost works for me- I will just have to run 2 radiator fans off my motherboard CPU header. If you guys find a solution that will work for all 8 channels, please PM me


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ok so I did some testing and your PWM splitter is not the only factor involved. It also depends on the fan controller used. For example, using my Aquaero 6 I could control 6 fans/splitter whereas others in another thread have reported being able to control all 8 channels using a motherboard PWM header. In either case, 6 fans/splitter almost works for me- I will just have to run 2 radiator fans off my motherboard CPU header. If you guys find a solution that will work for all 8 channels, please PM me


This is correct. It also depends on the strength of the pulse signal that's being supplied to the splitter. If the signal is sufficiently strong enough then it could potentially provide enough signal to all eight devices that require a strong pulse signal. The splitter just does what it's supposed to and that's split the provided signal.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Hey man, they gotta get them runs done quick! Even if it means they have to come back a second time the next day...












lol


----------



## wermad

I use the hot tap from my faucet to flush as well.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Ya gain some ya lose some! Oh life...


Hold the phone, the guy I am purchasing the pump/top/res combo from also has a whole lot of compressions. The only problem is they are 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD. I wanted slightly bigger but for the price I might go ahead and get them. At least I can have the loop up and running while I scrounge up the cash (and wait for restocking) of the fittings I initially wanted.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Hold the phone, the guy I am purchasing the pump/top/res combo from also has a whole lot of compressions. The only problem is they are 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD. I wanted slightly bigger but for the price I might go ahead and get them. At least I can have the loop up and running while I scrounge up the cash (and wait for restocking) of the fittings I initially wanted.


Hey if the price is right then do it! I run 3/8 5/8 and think that is perfect size tubing so just go for it!


----------



## skupples

@BramSLI1 Have a question for you. Working on filling my loop, it makes use of the MCP35x2 mated w/ the maelstrom. OK so, when I flip the switch, the pump comes on, but it's not sucking any water. It sounds like it is, but the res level isn't dropping... any advice? I'm currently only using 1x pump to fill the system, via molex for full power. The pump is 100% functional, i'm sure of that, as I pulled it out of my last build. The only difference is the heatsink & the maelstrom. No leaks.


----------



## rickyman0319

is there a 4 x4 pin hub /distubution w/ rpm reading and power cable include? I need to buy one.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is correct. It also depends on the strength of the pulse signal that's being supplied to the splitter. If the signal is sufficiently strong enough then it could potentially provide enough signal to all eight devices that require a strong pulse signal. The splitter just does what it's supposed to and that's split the provided signal.


Makes sense and also explains why the number of fans supported was the same irrespective of whether they were SP120 quiet or high performance editions. I am just glad I can turn down the high performance fans, the quiet editions even on 100% are not an issue.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey if the price is right then do it! I run 3/8 5/8 and think that is perfect size tubing so just go for it!


7/16" ID x 5/8" OD is my favorite. Thick walls but not too thick to bend tight, but also if bent tight is hard to kink. I'm not too far off though, I'll see how it looks and make a judgement call. They're nice fittings, nicer than the ones I was going to buy brand new. They are the Koolance dark black ones, and considering I went with a Koolance CPU block and GPU block it kinda fits.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @BramSLI1 Have a question for you. Working on filling my loop, it makes use of the MCP35x2 mated w/ the maelstrom. OK so, when I flip the switch, the pump comes on, but it's not sucking any water. It sounds like it is, but the res level isn't dropping... any advice? I'm currently only using 1x pump to fill the system, via molex for full power. The pump is 100% functional, i'm sure of that, as I pulled it out of my last build. The only difference is the heatsink & the maelstrom. No leaks.


Sounds like a trapped pocket of air. Happens ot my pump when I'm filling up. Try rocking your case (make sure to seal your loop first).


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Makes sense and also explains why the number of fans supported was the same irrespective of whether they were SP120 quiet or high performance editions. I am just glad I can turn down the high performance fans, the quiet editions even on 100% are not an issue.


So you have SP120 QE and HP edtion with the swifttech hub, do u connect to mb cpu header or fan controller. if u put it on fan controller what controller work or not? do FC-6 works?


----------



## VSG

I guess I will have 6 SP120 PE's on one hub, 6 SP120 QE's on another hub and the other 2 SP120 QE's will go to a PWM splitter and into the motherboard's CPU header. I can't tell you what fan controllers will work, and what do not- there are very few multi-channel PWM fan controllers out there. If you do not want this hassle, stick with voltage regulated fans but for me I am pretty happy I went with PWM fans- much large range of RPM control with PWM.


----------



## szeged

it has arrived


----------



## wermad

^^^^Sweet! Which fittings you going with?

Wish this was out when i tried acrylic. Too heavily invested in regular tube and compression fittings to switch now.


----------



## skupples

I really should of heeded the advice on the siftech forums to avoid this res. The pump is forming a cyclone inside the res, looks like it's pulling air through the water.


----------



## RickRockerr

Here's updated pics of my build








Lightning isn't the best possible because I am from Finland so it's completely dark at 4 pm....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








I only need second 670 and I think my setup is complete


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I really should of heeded the advice on the siftech forums to avoid this res. The pump is forming a cyclone inside the res, looks like it's pulling air through the water.


Slow the pumps down. It should help considerably.


----------



## VSG

Sell the bay reservoir and buy a good cylinder reservoir instead- the new borosilicate reservoirs from XSPC and Aquacomputer look amazing.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^Sweet! Which fittings you going with?
> 
> Wish this was out when i tried acrylic. Too heavily invested in regular tube and compression fittings to switch now.


gonna get the new bitspower ones


----------



## subsven

Oops


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @BramSLI1 Have a question for you. Working on filling my loop, it makes use of the MCP35x2 mated w/ the maelstrom. OK so, when I flip the switch, the pump comes on, but it's not sucking any water. It sounds like it is, but the res level isn't dropping... any advice? I'm currently only using 1x pump to fill the system, via molex for full power. The pump is 100% functional, i'm sure of that, as I pulled it out of my last build. The only difference is the heatsink & the maelstrom. No leaks.


Hate to break it to you, but both of the ports you have fitted are IN ports...


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Here's updated pics of my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lightning isn't the best possible because I am from Finland so it's completely dark at 4 pm....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only need second 670 and I think my setup is complete


I've got one listed on eBay right now with a matching HeatKiller block on it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Slow the pumps down. It should help considerably.


hmm.... The only way to do that would be to power up my Aquaero. They are PWM pumps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Hate to break it to you, but both of the ports you have fitted are IN ports...


What? The one coming out of the left is the out, it's the only way to pump out of this res. The res screws into the pump from that side of the unit. If that's the case, then the manual(piece of paper) that came with the unit is a fallacy.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @BramSLI1 Have a question for you. Working on filling my loop, it makes use of the MCP35x2 mated w/ the maelstrom. OK so, when I flip the switch, the pump comes on, but it's not sucking any water. It sounds like it is, but the res level isn't dropping... any advice? *I'm currently only using 1x pump to fill the system, via molex for full power.* The pump is 100% functional, i'm sure of that, as I pulled it out of my last build. The only difference is the heatsink & the maelstrom. No leaks.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> I've got one listed on eBay right now with a matching HeatKiller block on it.
Click to expand...

He did mentioned only one pump was powered on (probably the one on the left).


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> He did mentioned only one pump was powered on (probably the one on the left).


Right, I have this same dual pump setup. You have an option of using the top or front inlet, but both of them on that side are inlets. The one and only outlet on that top is the closed one on the right. See how much higher it sits on the left than on the right? If anything, I'm surprised it's not blasting back into the res itself.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> He did mentioned only one pump was powered on (probably the one on the left).


derp. It has to come out of the other side of the pump.



time to get wet!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah reminds me, when my RAD's arrive should I flush them out prior to hooking them up ?
> 
> I grabbed mayhem's dye from PPC's but forgot to grab distilled, what do you guys recommend ? as well as anything additional, I'll be going acrylic. No nickel in my build currently.


Yes, you should flush the rads. Hot tap is fine or you can use a 10:1 ratio of water and vinegar. Then make sure you do a final flush with plain distilled. And you should be able to pick up either distilled or deionized water from a local grocery store or pharmacy


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hmm.... The only way to do that would be to power up my Aquaero. They are PWM pumps.


Skupples, you can operate the AQ6 completely outside the case. I tested it out a couple of hours ago on radiator fans and it works great once you got the gist of the menu layout.


----------



## subsven




----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Skupples, you can operate the AQ6 completely outside the case. I tested it out a couple of hours ago on radiator fans and it works great once you got the gist of the menu layout.


I got it sorted, Subsven pointed out my derp.

+1's

It was fate. PPC sent me 4x too many of something. Ended up having to use those 4 fittings to make it fit. FATE!


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> I've got one listed on eBay right now with a matching HeatKiller block on it.


I wish that I could buy it now (I just got electric bill of 450 euros)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> derp. It has to come out of the other side of the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> time to get wet!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Right, I have this same dual pump setup. You have an option of using the top or front inlet, but both of them on that side are inlets. The *one and only outlet* on that top is the closed one on the right. See how much higher it sits on the left than on the right? If anything, I'm surprised it's not blasting back into the res itself.
Click to expand...

You are right sir


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Right, I have this same dual pump setup. You have an option of using the top or front inlet, but both of them on that side are inlets. The one and only outlet on that top is the closed one on the right. See how much higher it sits on the left than on the right? If anything, I'm surprised it's not blasting back into the res itself.












thx again... This res is a bit small for this much pump horse power. I'm definitely going to switch it out for a big ol' tube res when I tear it down in a few weeks for the mobo shroud install... I'm going to have to hook up my Aquaero to turn down the PWM speed so that it stops gulping air. (with just one pump @ 100% mind you)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx again... This res is a bit small for this much pump horse power. I'm definitely going to switch it out for a big ol' tube res when I tear it down in a few weeks for the mobo shroud install... I'm going to have to hook up my Aquaero to turn down the PWM speed so that it stops gulping air. (with just one pump @ 100% mind you)


Great Idea, ditch one of the bay res, install your Aquaero there and get a Tube res.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Great Idea, ditch one of the bay res, install your Aquaero there and get a Tube res.


I'm contemplating it heavily. Reselling this res would probably be a PITA though.
I was hoping to run both pumps ~75%, but I don't think that's going to pan out.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm contemplating it heavily. Reselling this res would probably be a PITA though.
> I was hoping to run both pumps ~75%, but I don't think that's going to pan out.


At least I'm not the only one who's got a vision on how things should work out, then end up not working out. Lol


----------



## LunaP

What do you guys think about this one, thinking about grabbing it since it comes w/ dual pumps. I think my TH10 would have plenty of room for it.

The premium monsoon w/ multiple LED changing. anyone using one of these?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What do you guys think about this one, thinking about grabbing it since it comes w/ dual pumps. I think my TH10 would have plenty of room for it.
> 
> The premium monsoon w/ multiple LED changing. anyone using one of these?


Just buy the one from Skupples. Everybody wins


----------



## VSG

lol we just told Skupples to ditch bay reservoirs on this very page!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol we just told Skupples to ditch bay reservoirs on this very page!


Just caught that lol I plan to also have some additional tube res for looks mainly though just though itd be a nice visual for the punps vs bolting them down sonewhere.

Hows the noise on these skupps?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well no longer putting the setup in my lil Source 210 case, so merry christmas to me. . well still need to get the pump and another rad now, lol.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well no longer putting the setup in my lil Source 210 case, so merry christmas to me. . well still need to get the pump and another rad now, lol.


I love that case. Was gonna get it in green, but then I made the wrong choice and ended up with the 600T.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I went with the black due to it costing a lil bit less in the end.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah I went with the black due to it costing a lil bit less in the end.


All that case needs is a clean window without the fan mounts and grille holes.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> All that case needs is a clean window without the fan mounts and grille holes.


>.> & Lebestia knows just the man for the job...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just caught that lol I plan to also have some additional tube res for looks mainly though just though itd be a nice visual for the punps vs bolting them down sonewhere.
> 
> Hows the noise on these skupps?


That one has a slightly higher volume than the one i'm using, so it may actually pan out. This one is just too tiny for the amount of pump they designed it for. The dual MCP35 pumps are loud as hell @ 100%.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What do you guys think about this one, thinking about grabbing it since it comes w/ dual pumps. I think my TH10 would have plenty of room for it.
> 
> The premium monsoon w/ multiple LED changing. anyone using one of these?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip


Monsoon makes great products. I personally prefer tube res's, but if i was gonna grab a bay res, it would probly be a monsoon. Just make sure it's the updated version. I think the old one from DD used to have a few leaking issues (not positive about that)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right now it looks like both versions of these fans and the issue appears to be related to the IC used for PWM control for these fans. The current used to carry the PWM signal for our fans is quite low, but it appears that Corsairs needs a higher current to register the PWM signal. Since this is the case once you plug in more than 4 fans the current becomes too low for the Corsair fans to detect it and they subsequently run at full speed. This has been confirmed by our engineer here.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so I did some testing and your PWM splitter is not the only factor involved. It also depends on the fan controller used. For example, using my Aquaero 6 I could control 6 fans/splitter whereas others in another thread have reported being able to control all 8 channels using a motherboard PWM header. In either case, 6 fans/splitter almost works for me- I will just have to run 2 radiator fans off my motherboard CPU header. If you guys find a solution that will work for all 8 channels, please PM me
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I guess I will have 6 SP120 PE's on one hub, 6 SP120 QE's on another hub and the other 2 SP120 QE's will go to a PWM splitter and into the motherboard's CPU header. I can't tell you what fan controllers will work, and what do not- there are very few multi-channel PWM fan controllers out there. If you do not want this hassle, stick with voltage regulated fans but for me I am pretty happy I went with PWM fans- much large range of RPM control with PWM.


There's really only one multiple PWM Channel controller on the market. The Aquaero 6.

But, Corsair Link has "PWM" also. Only problem is, that you've already come across, that Corsair uses their own unique PWM frequency instead of conforming to the insdustry standard ~25kHz.

If you're going with all Corsair fans though, Corsair Link would be a viable option for PWM controlling your fans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is there a 4 x4 pin hub /distubution w/ rpm reading and power cable include? I need to buy one.


Any fan with a 4th Pin is a PWM fan. So you want a PWM splitter. There's a few good options. If you want a PCB, i'd go with the Swiftech PWM Splitter. Or you could go with one of the Akasa Splitters. Both of them work correctly and only read the RPM signal from one fan, split the PWM to all of them, & get their power from a Molex.









Quote:



> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Haha its not too large. Just the last stuffs I need to get up and running. Here is the list.
> 
> 
> I'll definitely post pics. Looks like it's not going to come before I have to leave for work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CRAP I forgot to grab distilled water!
> 
> Glad to hear your pup is alright!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah reminds me, when my RAD's arrive should I flush them out prior to hooking them up ?
> 
> I grabbed mayhem's dye from PPC's but forgot to grab distilled, what do you guys recommend ? as well as anything additional, I'll be going acrylic. No nickel in my build currently.


Guys, if you live in the USA, DO NOT order distilled water online, unless for some reason you don't like money. The only reason distilled is sold online is because other countries aren't as lucky as we are. We can buy Distilled at any CVS, Stop & Shop, Walgreens, or any similar pharmacy or supermarket for like $1 a Gallon. There is NO benefit to buying it from a WC company.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, then it's going to ramp up and ramp down based on your CPU temperature. I think with that board though you will need to activate the option that allows you to control it with AI Suite. Then you can set your own curve for it. Keep in mind that AI Suite can be a bit buggy at times.
> 
> 
> 
> This is how I control my MCP655 PWM. To keep the pump from ramping up/down all the time, I set the curve in FanXpert at something like 40% at temps when Im not gaming and at around 75% when I am gaming, then 100% for prime95 temps region. It seems to work well.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> This is how I control my MCP655 PWM. To keep the pump from ramping up/down all the time, I set the curve in FanXpert at something like 40% at temps when Im not gaming and at around 75% when I am gaming, then 100% for prime95 temps region. It seems to work well.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My board has a min and max percentage. If I set both ro lets say 50% then im assuming thats where it would stay. Quick question though, what is a good performance/quite ratio for my mcp35x?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> My board has a min and max percentage. If I set both ro lets say 50% then im assuming thats where it would stay. Quick question though, what is a good performance/quite ratio for my mcp35x?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's how I did it. 50% is not that loud on mcp35... I could hear the water in the res more than I could hear the pumps @ 50%(mcp35x2)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> lol I bet he did
> She doesn't seem to mind it too much because she knows she gets treats whn it goes on. I feel bad for her though because she bumps into everything with it
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The cone just came off of my eldest Basenji (she had some growths removed) I'm convinced she enjoyed knocking into things/stuff over. She would also thwack people with the cone for attention. OOPS off topic. I couldn't resist.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 35X can be a bit quirky.
> 
> Never expect the PWM percentage to be directly numerically related to the percentage of max speed.
> 
> They run at minimum speed at anything below ~17% and max speed comes in by ~50%, sometimes a lil more, sometimes a tad less . . . .Pay NO Attention to the published graph.
> 
> I have yet to find a 35X that needs even 60% pulse width for max rpm.
> 
> You'll want to keep your control ramp in the 20% to 40% pulse width range to keep the pump from big rpm swings that drive you nuts with the noise.
> 
> They behave drastically differently than a CPU fan which is really quite linear, so you really need to not use a normal CPU fan curve
> 
> I actually did a god bit of testing on the 35X and PWM D5 over the summer when I built the calibrated PWM controllers.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Darlene, have you done any research as to whether this applies only to the 35x and not the DDC 3.2 PWM? I've always been under the impression the pumps are identical, but this would be useful knowledge. Thanx in advance









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the Phobya version makes no use of the 5v wire on the molex, so there would be no issue using a Molex -> 3Pin adapter and connecting it to a fan channel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or using any of the ModMyToys PCB's that have a 3Pin Power Source and running that from a fan channel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I originally wanted to get the Phobya version, but they're sold out. I went ahead and ordered a ModMyToys 8 x 3pin fan pcb with 4 pin molex power input. It'll get the job done in the meantime, however I'm not sure if I'll be able to configure it so that I'll be able to control the voltage. It didn't cost much anyway so if push comes to shove then I'll probably look at the 3pin power input fan pcb.
> 
> Got a big order on the way from PPC!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Products
> 9 x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-3 120mm x 25mm Ultra Silent Bionic Blade Fan - 1900 RPM - 26.5 dBA
> - Sleeve Color: Black
> - Heatshrink Color: Black $206.55
> 1 x *** NEW *** PrimoChill CTR™ Compression Tube Reservoir System - 240mm UV Green $39.95
> 2 x *** NEW *** PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid Acrylic Tubing - 24in - UV Green (4 Pack) $39.90
> 1 x Swiftech D5 Pump Housing Custom G1/4 Threads $6.95
> 1 x Swiftech MCP655™ Series 12 VDC Water Pumps - Bare $66.95
> 2 x PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression 3/8in ID x 1/2in OD Fitting - Anodized White $13.90
> 3 x PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression 3/8in ID x 1/2in OD Fitting - Anodized White (4pack) $74.85
> 1 x ModMyToys 4-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 8-Way Block
> - 3pin Female-to-Female Ext Cable: No Cable
> - 4pin Molex to 3pin Cable Adapter: No Cable $4.75
> 1 x Phobya valve with 2 x G1/4" IG-connection $12.95
> 1 x XSPC G1/4" 5mm Male to Male Fitting - Black Chrome Finish $1.99
> 1 x *** NEW *** XSPC G1/4″ 90° Rotary Fitting - Black Chrome Finish $4.49
> 1 x Primochill Clear PMMA Tower Plug 3" - UV LED $7.95
> 1 x IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip $6.99
> 
> Sub-Total: $488.17
> United States Postal Service (Priority Mail™ (With Tracking)): $15.57
> Shipping Insurance declined: $0.00
> Total: $503.74
Click to expand...

It looks like you half-sorted the problem out yourself with the adapter cables you ordered with the PCB. Only issue you might run into is that the all the MMT 4Pin -> 3Pin adapter cables i can find have a male molex end, just like the PCB does. If it's a male molex, THIS Female to female adapter will fix that part of the issue.

Other issue is you're not gonna have RPM feedback from the PCB. From the cables i saw, it seems they take the 12v & Ground from the Molex and send it to the proper pins on a 3Pin fan connector with an empty 3rd wire. You should be able make your PCB perform exactly as you want it by taking the 3rd (RPM) wire/pin out of any ONE of the connectors you're plugging into the PCB and plugging it into that 3rd empty slot from the adapter cable.

Then you'll have a full functioning fan-splitter with rpm feedback

Hope this helps


----------



## VSG

I had the Corsair link cooling and lighting kit for a grand total of 2 days before the software started having issues. If they can spend some quality time working on the software, it would be a pretty valid competitor but not at the moment.

Anyway I guess I will have 2 Akasa 5 fan PWM splitters and a modmytoys 8 fan PWM power bank for sale soon.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What do you guys think about this one, thinking about grabbing it since it comes w/ dual pumps. I think my TH10 would have plenty of room for it.
> 
> The premium monsoon w/ multiple LED changing. anyone using one of these?


i think you should maybe just use a tube res or some other bay res, i feel like you may be over doing LED use in your build, three gpu blocks with leds, cpu block with leds and a res with leds might just flood the case with light, and ive seen many builds go from good to awful with just the addition of too many leds.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I had the Corsair link cooling and lighting kit for a grand total of 2 days before the software started having issues. *If they can spend some quality time working on the software, it would be a pretty valid competitor but not at the moment.*
> 
> Anyway I guess I will have 2 Akasa 5 fan PWM splitters and a modmytoys 8 fan PWM power bank for sale soon.


It will never be a valid competitor. Corsair decided to use "proprietary" PWM, which is why you have issue's with the SP120's. They intentionally made their PWM incompatible with everything else. Even if the software worked properly, any other brand PWM fan would either not work or have clicking sounds on Corsair Link.

I didn't realize til recently that they pulled the same tactic with their SP120 PWM's. Which was incredibly stupid since they added a great feature to a great fan, and then ruined it with proprietary marketing bulls**t!!!


----------



## skupples

So, how do I resolve a noisy typhoon? I'm @ the point of hitting with a hammer, but I don't think will work. all 23 other fans sound fine, but I can hear JUST ONE ticking, nothing in it's way, I even used grommets for my rads this time. OK... Besides that gripe, everything cooling wise is up & running, leak tested & bled. Time to make it run tomorroW!! WooHoo.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i think you should maybe just use a tube res or some other bay res, i feel like you may be over doing LED use in your build, three gpu blocks with leds, cpu block with leds and a res with leds might just flood the case with light, and ive seen many builds go from good to awful with just the addition of too many leds.


True but this one would be on the outside of the case and the XSPC are thin lights compared to the EK glowstix lol. I think the lights can be turned off as well.

I do plan on a tube as well for the center view just thought this might look nice in the front since the case would be seen from the side.

Also found some AMAZING quality looking cables that I'm about to pull the trigger on..Max Finder Triple braided.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Four 6ft Rolls of 1/2 acrylic and the monsoon hardline mandrels for my acrylic tubing project. 24feet seems like a lot, but ordered extra just in case I mess up. Will post the left overs for sale on the marketplace.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Four 6ft Rolls of 1/2 acrylic and the monsoon hardline mandrels for my acrylic tubing project. 24feet seems like a lot, but ordered extra just in case I mess up. Will post the left overs for sale on the marketplace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What site hast hem in stock? Also what size are those? I'm looking for 13mm if possible or 12mm whichever.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What site hast hem in stock? Also what size are those? I'm looking for 13mm if possible or 12mm whichever.


These are 1/2" OD by 3/8" ID 1/16 thick. 6ft in lenght. from McMaster Carr. $3.64 per tube. Just because I ordered 1/2 primochill Rigid Revolver fittings for 1/2 Copper pipe. Since the Copper pipe didn't turn out too good, I went with Acrylic.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It will never be a valid competitor. Corsair decided to use "proprietary" PWM, which is why you have issue's with the SP120's. They intentionally made their PWM incompatible with everything else. Even if the software worked properly, any other brand PWM fan would either not work or have clicking sounds on Corsair Link.
> 
> I didn't realize til recently that they pulled the same tactic with their SP120 PWM's. Which was incredibly stupid since they added a great feature to a great fan, and then ruined it with proprietary marketing bulls**t!!!


Ya, you are probably right. I have no idea what they were thinking and how one even makes a PWM signal proprietary in the first place. If I was aware of these issues, I would have looked elsewhere but, again, not many choices in the PWM radiator fan world.


----------



## IT Diva

Now that EK's shown good pics of the full cover mobo block for the R4BE, and shows that it keeps the same port placement as the RIVE, I figured it was worth a trial run at planning my mobo plumbing.

Also having been able to remove the mosfet heatsink and pipe while leaving the I/O heatsink / cover in place makes it a lot easier to see how tubing will route.

In keeping with my "futuristic nuclear reactor" look, I wanted to do all the runs so they are either horizontal or vertical, but nothing on an angle. . . . . Just like a piping layout for an industrial plant.

And I was able to do it . . .

Running the ram blocks in parallel first, with everything else in series afterwards, worked perfectly.

The tube to the rear panel goes to the pass thru to inlet of the rear external rad.

The revolver fitting, (will probably go to a C47 there) connects up the pump outlet.

Now I just have to be patient waiting on the block to dial in the little details.

Darlene







Ran out of the short red extensions to put where the chipset block fittings go, but I'll have some more soon enough . . .


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> True but this one would be on the outside of the case and the XSPC are thin lights compared to the EK glowstix lol. I think the lights can be turned off as well.
> 
> I do plan on a tube as well for the center view just thought this might look nice in the front since the case would be seen from the side.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also found some AMAZING quality looking cables that I'm about to pull the trigger on..Max Finder Triple braided.


Lit up WC Gear like EK/XSPC Blocks & Reservoirs just use standard LED's. It's not like there's an on/off switch on the block or anything. They just have 3mm or 5mm holes in them that you can choose/or not choose to put led's in.

The brightness completely depends on the LED's you use. Usually XSPC blocks/reservoirs come with a set of LED's, but they're not special led's or anything.

That Monsoon Bay res, i think, is an exception to that. I think i remember that it comes with its own RGB control board. So not sure how the lighting works in it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, how do I resolve a noisy typhoon? I'm @ the point of hitting with a hammer, but I don't think will work. all 23 other fans sound fine, but I can hear JUST ONE ticking, nothing in it's way, I even used grommets for my rads this time. OK... Besides that gripe, everything cooling wise is up & running, leak tested & bled. Time to make it run tomorroW!! WooHoo.


There's a chance you just need to disassemble and clean the GT.

Usually cleaning & adding more grease/lubrication to the bearings will help fans alot. I've never had to do that with a GT....yet. But i've definitely taken em apart, so feel free to pm me if you need help with it. There's nothing complicated about it.

Gorgeous job as usual Darlene!!!

Now i need to go hunt down those damn pics of my new block


----------



## skupples

Thanks Poetic! Now I just need to find out if any other tube res can be mated with a MCP35x2 natively. The only tube res swiftech makes is too short.


----------



## VSG

Just use a male-male fitting


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lit up WC Gear like EK/XSPC Blocks & Reservoirs just use standard LED's. It's not like there's an on/off switch on the block or anything. They just have 3mm or 5mm holes in them that you can choose/or not choose to put led's in.
> 
> The brightness completely depends on the LED's you use. Usually XSPC blocks/reservoirs come with a set of LED's, but they're not special led's or anything.
> 
> That Monsoon Bay res, i think, is an exception to that. I think i remember that it comes with its own RGB control board. So not sure how the lighting works in it.


I was thinking of getting sound activated LED's for the system as well, thought it'd be kinda cool. As for the GPU blocks and CPU thought maybe replacing them w/ ones I could control if such exist. Though since the Case will be on my lett people walking in won't see the front only the side, so just the blocks + CPU.

Facing it they'll just see the res, which would look pretty sexy @ night the way I'm thinking, and yeah it has an RGB board on it was one of the main reasons I was considering it. I'm taking measurements for PSU cable lengths atm and just finished hence the PSU cable pic I posted above, they seem to be the highest rated for looks / quality so figured I'd go w/ them.

Gonna have to order 1 more REGULAR drive cage for my TH10 for the PSU side (reverse) since the flex one only goes on the Mobo side. Might just get 2 so they're out of the way for other hardware.

Actually noticing these holes here could use cable ties to hold or hook a res tube there right?



That + I could remove the front fan grill off the drive flex bay and it should be able to fit on the opposite side then? Either way the Res would fit but I wanna put an acrylic path (flat 2-3" wide and 20-25" in length") across the side (horizontally), actually getting a CRAP ton of ideas atm the more I do it.

KPOETICG!!

TREGUNDA MEGOIDES TRACORUM SATIS DEE!!









This build is gonne be FUN. Where's a good place to buy acrylic sheets w/ L bends like a small 2 inch 90 degree bend to tape against the wall but then a nice lengthly piece coming away from the wall?

ALso looking @ the McMaster-Carr site and having a hard time finding the exact tubing in question as there's a variety for the acrylic, any other sites out there with em in stock?


----------



## skupples

I have plenty of those left over from this build. Swiftech uses this weird inside fitting to mate them together.



not many of the high quality tube reservoirs have a bottom port.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks Poetic! Now I just need to find out if any other tube res can be mated with a MCP35x2 natively. The only tube res swiftech makes is too short.


You could always turn your 35x2 into x2 35x's =)

I'm almost certain that's how i'm gonna run my loop. Isn't the 35x2 just 2 of them with a stock Swiftech dual top?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You could always turn your 35x2 into x2 35x's =)
> 
> I'm almost certain that's how i'm gonna run my loop. Isn't the 35x2 just 2 of them with a stock Swiftech dual top?


Yupp! The dual top is the best top for the 2x setup though, & separating them = no moar warranty, so I would have to send them in for service before breaking the warranty seal.


----------



## VSG

That swiftech res also has a pin that hold it in place so it is a pretty unique situation. Don't expect similar solutions unless you go for aftermarket DDC tops as well.

You might want to consider putting in a ball valve between the res and pump if you are going 200 mL or more, that way you won't have to drain the reservoir if you need to drain the loop.


----------



## skupples

That pin is so dinky. It's literally 2 mm long. Iv'e seen other people mate non-swiftech reservoirs to this pump, i'll have to look around. Have plenty of time, i'm not changing it for @ least a month.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *skupples* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You could always turn your 35x2 into x2 35x's =)
> 
> I'm almost certain that's how i'm gonna run my loop. Isn't the 35x2 just 2 of them with a stock Swiftech dual top?








> Yupp! The dual top is the best top for the 2x setup though, & separating them = no moar warranty, so I would have to send them in for service before breaking the warranty seal.


Really? I thought most 3rd party tops (EK/Heatkiller/Alphacool) were all meant as an improvement over the factory top.



The only reservoirs that would be compatible directly with a swiftech top would be a swiftech res. But EK makes a dual DDC Top that's res-mountable.

I didn't know that about the 35x2 top though. Something for me to keep in mind. That might change my plans a little bit...


----------



## skupples

It's what iv'e heard. Was told it by a few people when I was looking for an aftermarket top for it. So, it's a modded DDC?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Now that EK's shown good pics of the full cover mobo block for the R4BE, and shows that it keeps the same port placement as the RIVE, I figured it was worth a trial run at planning my mobo plumbing.
> 
> Also having been able to remove the mosfet heatsink and pipe while leaving the I/O heatsink / cover in place makes it a lot easier to see how tubing will route.
> 
> In keeping with my "futuristic nuclear reactor" look, I wanted to do all the runs so they are either horizontal or vertical, but nothing on an angle. . . . . Just like a piping layout for an industrial plant.
> 
> And I was able to do it . . .
> 
> Running the ram blocks in parallel first, with everything else in series afterwards, worked perfectly.
> 
> The tube to the rear panel goes to the pass thru to inlet of the rear external rad.
> 
> The revolver fitting, (will probably go to a C47 there) connects up the pump outlet.
> 
> Now I just have to be patient waiting on the block to dial in the little details.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ran out of the short red extensions to put where the chipset block fittings go, but I'll have some more soon enough . . .


That looks really good. I plan on using the same memory blocks, and later add the board blocks, but mine will not look as awesome. Very good work.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's what iv'e heard. Was told it by a few people when I was looking for an aftermarket top for it. So, it's a modded DDC?


A 35x isn't a modded DDC. A 35x is a DDC









Just like a Koolance PMP-450 is a D5 or PMP-400 is a DDC

It's just probly the most popular DDC version. Just like all the MCP655 models are D5's.

Pretty much all worthwhile WC'ing pumps are rebranded Laing pumps. Except maybe Eheim's...

Edit: Unless I'm wrong and Swiftech added PWM capability before Laing did to the 3.2


----------



## LunaP

Doh my last comment ended on the last page was pointed @ j00 kpoet! o: !

Also just ordered 2 more Drive cages for the PSU side for my TH10 as I found even dismantling the flex one down it won't align lol.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Now that EK's shown good pics of the full cover mobo block for the R4BE, and shows that it keeps the same port placement as the RIVE, I figured it was worth a trial run at planning my mobo plumbing.
> 
> Also having been able to remove the mosfet heatsink and pipe while leaving the I/O heatsink / cover in place makes it a lot easier to see how tubing will route.
> 
> In keeping with my "futuristic nuclear reactor" look, I wanted to do all the runs so they are either horizontal or vertical, but nothing on an angle. . . . . Just like a piping layout for an industrial plant.
> 
> And I was able to do it . . .
> 
> Running the ram blocks in parallel first, with everything else in series afterwards, worked perfectly.
> 
> The tube to the rear panel goes to the pass thru to inlet of the rear external rad.
> 
> The revolver fitting, (will probably go to a C47 there) connects up the pump outlet.
> 
> Now I just have to be patient waiting on the block to dial in the little details.
> 
> Darlene


That looks insanely sick... You're tempting me to do something similar with my RIVE and new build.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *LunaP* 

Doh my last comment ended on the last page was pointed @ j00 kpoet! o: !

Also just ordered 2 more Drive cages for the PSU side for my TH10 as I found even dismantling the flex one down it won't align lol.

I actually didn't even notice that post lol. I might've been posting while u were and just got sent to the next page or something...

Quote:
Originally Posted by *LunaP* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lit up WC Gear like EK/XSPC Blocks & Reservoirs just use standard LED's. It's not like there's an on/off switch on the block or anything. They just have 3mm or 5mm holes in them that you can choose/or not choose to put led's in.
> 
> The brightness completely depends on the LED's you use. Usually XSPC blocks/reservoirs come with a set of LED's, but they're not special led's or anything.
> 
> That Monsoon Bay res, i think, is an exception to that. I think i remember that it comes with its own RGB control board. So not sure how the lighting works in it.








> I was thinking of getting sound activated LED's for the system as well, thought it'd be kinda cool. As for the GPU blocks and CPU thought maybe replacing them w/ ones I could control if such exist. Though since the Case will be on my lett people walking in won't see the front only the side, so just the blocks + CPU.
> 
> Facing it they'll just see the res, which would look pretty sexy @ night the way I'm thinking, and yeah it has an RGB board on it was one of the main reasons I was considering it. I'm taking measurements for PSU cable lengths atm and just finished hence the PSU cable pic I posted above, they seem to be the highest rated for looks / quality so figured I'd go w/ them.
> 
> Gonna have to order 1 more REGULAR drive cage for my TH10 for the PSU side (reverse) since the flex one only goes on the Mobo side. Might just get 2 so they're out of the way for other hardware.
> 
> Actually noticing these holes here could use cable ties to hold or hook a res tube there right?
> 
> 
> 
> That + I could remove the front fan grill off the drive flex bay and it should be able to fit on the opposite side then? Either way the Res would fit but I wanna put an acrylic path (flat 2-3" wide and 20-25" in length") across the side (horizontally), actually getting a CRAP ton of ideas atm the more I do it.
> 
> KPOETICG!!
> 
> TREGUNDA MEGOIDES TRACORUM SATIS DEE!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This build is gonne be FUN. Where's a good place to buy acrylic sheets w/ L bends like a small 2 inch 90 degree bend to tape against the wall but then a nice lengthly piece coming away from the wall?
> 
> ALso looking @ the McMaster-Carr site and having a hard time finding the exact tubing in question as there's a variety for the acrylic, any other sites out there with em in stock?


LED's are standard everywhere. You just need to know if your block/res uses 3mm's or 5mm's. Then the options are pretty much endless. If you want super bright LED's, i recommend Amazon or an actual LED reseller, not a PC Gear Reseller. Usually 3000-5000mcd is the highest you'll find at all the usual spots. I use 15000mcd 5mm led's in my phobya eloop mod. There's a million different ways to control em too. Just need to pick what led's you want first. Then decide the method of control.

For instance the Aquaero can control a bunch of led's however you want.

The Aquacomputer Multiswitch is really made for controlling led's. There's LED power distribution pcb's like the ModSmart or Bitspower LED boards, or any ModMyToys PCB with 2Pin headers is meant for LED's usually too. If you buy em prewired with a molex then you don't need to worry about resistors. I don't mind soldering so i buy bare led's & resistors.

After you buy a PCB to plug em into, then if you wanted you could control the pcb with a sound activated controller. It's better that way than trying to control the actual LED's with a sound controller. There's a ton of sound controllers for led's made for dj equipment and such. Just gotta search....

I don't own a Corsair case so don't know how big those holes are, but they look like they could be for cable clips.

You can get good acrylic at places like....

Delvies

TapPlastics

McMaster, and other places too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That pin is so dinky. It's literally 2 mm long. Iv'e seen other people mate non-swiftech reservoirs to this pump, i'll have to look around. Have plenty of time, i'm not changing it for @ least a month.


You can really mate any res with any pump by using a male -> male threaded fitting.

But any res that's actually intended as a pump/res combo has a top made for it by that company.

The new Alphacool Lighttower's look interesting to me. They come with adapters for a wide range of pumps. There's no DDC adapter, but there's a G1/4 adapter for it. It seems like it's meant to be kind of a pump top for any pump you choose


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, you are probably right. I have no idea what they were thinking and how one even makes a PWM signal proprietary in the first place. If I was aware of these issues, I would have looked elsewhere but, again, not many choices in the PWM radiator fan world.


I had the same problem with those fans but found out later corsair makes great fans if you can deal with the look.The 2700 rpm fans they sell as replacements for there aio coolers work great. I'm using two six fan pwm splitters connected to a four pin splitter all controlled by the motherboard and powered by two molex connectors. The fans run silent at under 600 rpm most of the time.


----------



## rickyman0319

do I need p/p on ST30 if I only cool i7 4770k cpu?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do I need p/p on ST30 if I only cool i7 4770k cpu?


How big a ST30 are you getting? But the ST30 is so thin I don't think P/P adds much.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I actually didn't even notice that post lol. I might've been posting while u were and just got sent to the next page or something...
> 
> I don't own a Corsair case so don't know how big those holes are, but they look like they could be for cable clips.
> 
> You can get good acrylic at places like....
> Delvies
> TapPlastics
> McMaster, and other places too.


w000 ty buddy!

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/clear_acrylic_tubes/141


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> How big a ST30 are you getting? But the ST30 is so thin I don't think P/P adds much.


240 ST30


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 240 ST30


Push or pull will be fine, there's no need for push/pull


----------



## ledzepp3

Get them tissues ready boys, pr0n time!














Clean up time









-Zepp


----------



## Maximus Knight

anyone has had experience with the XSPC EX360 Xflow?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> w000 ty buddy!
> 
> https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/clear_acrylic_tubes/141
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No Prob!! I like 4960X's, 290x's, & 64GB Ram Kits for Xmas presents. Just in case you were wondering









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, you are probably right. I have no idea what they were thinking *and how one even makes a PWM signal proprietary in the first place.* If I was aware of these issues, I would have looked elsewhere but, again, not many choices in the PWM radiator fan world.


Well PWM = Pulse Width Modulation. The 4th PWM wire is really just a Pulse signal sending a series of +'s & -'s to the fans pwm chip. 25kHz is the standard that every1 uses which means 25,000 pulses a second are being sent to the fan telling it how fast to spin.

It's actually pretty easy to make a PWM controller with something like a 555 Timer, you can really set the oscillation to whatever you want depending how you put it together.

Corsair Link's PWM is proprietary because it uses something much less than 25kHz. That means fans are gonna be clicking because they're receiving a messed up signal. The SP120's were apparently made for Corsair's PWM frequency, whatever the hell it is...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well no longer putting the setup in my lil Source 210 case, so merry christmas to me. . well still need to get the pump and another rad now, lol.


I like a C70....I did one myself.

You wont get a much better case for the money.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Now that EK's shown good pics of the full cover mobo block for the R4BE, and shows that it keeps the same port placement as the RIVE, I figured it was worth a trial run at planning my mobo plumbing.
> 
> Also having been able to remove the mosfet heatsink and pipe while leaving the I/O heatsink / cover in place makes it a lot easier to see how tubing will route.
> 
> In keeping with my "futuristic nuclear reactor" look, I wanted to do all the runs so they are either horizontal or vertical, but nothing on an angle. . . . . Just like a piping layout for an industrial plant.
> 
> And I was able to do it . . .
> 
> Running the ram blocks in parallel first, with everything else in series afterwards, worked perfectly.
> 
> The tube to the rear panel goes to the pass thru to inlet of the rear external rad.
> 
> The revolver fitting, (will probably go to a C47 there) connects up the pump outlet.
> 
> Now I just have to be patient waiting on the block to dial in the little details.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ran out of the short red extensions to put where the chipset block fittings go, but I'll have some more soon enough . . .


That singular c47 on the block without the rotary draws my eye like a wart on the forehead of a supermodel......

Parallel Ram blocks is the way forward but you are hardly lacking pump power,serial would of looked tidier.
I get the nuclear plant thing tho,Bittech said the same about Arctic Water when it won MOTM.

As always,you have gone your own way with it...I like that.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well no longer putting the setup in my lil Source 210 case, so merry christmas to me. . well still need to get the pump and another rad now, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like a C70....I did one myself.
> 
> You wont get a much better case for the money.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PiCS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PiCS
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Now that EK's shown good pics of the full cover mobo block for the R4BE, and shows that it keeps the same port placement as the RIVE, I figured it was worth a trial run at planning my mobo plumbing.
> 
> Also having been able to remove the mosfet heatsink and pipe while leaving the I/O heatsink / cover in place makes it a lot easier to see how tubing will route.
> 
> In keeping with my "futuristic nuclear reactor" look, I wanted to do all the runs so they are either horizontal or vertical, but nothing on an angle. . . . . Just like a piping layout for an industrial plant.
> 
> And I was able to do it . . .
> 
> Running the ram blocks in parallel first, with everything else in series afterwards, worked perfectly.
> 
> The tube to the rear panel goes to the pass thru to inlet of the rear external rad.
> 
> The revolver fitting, (will probably go to a C47 there) connects up the pump outlet.
> 
> Now I just have to be patient waiting on the block to dial in the little details.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ran out of the short red extensions to put where the chipset block fittings go, but I'll have some more soon enough . . .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That singular c47 on the block without the rotary draws my eye like a wart on the forehead of a supermodel......
> 
> Parallel Ram blocks is the way forward but you are hardly lacking pump power,serial would of looked tidier.
> I get the nuclear plant thing tho,Bittech said the same about Arctic Water when it won MOTM.
> 
> *As always,you have gone your own way with it...I like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
Click to expand...

Damn B Neg, that C70 looks clean as hell. You're a beast man. I've been following your Close Impact log, but now i'm gonna have to check out your other stuff too!!

Yeah, Darlene doing stuff her own way generally = insane original never-been-done-before mods. I definitely love the uniqueness to all her work!!!


----------



## Akula

Buildlog - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/73352-project-armada-watercooled-define-r4-titanium-ek-waterblocks-completed-final-photos/


----------



## kpoeticg

Beautiful work @Akula !!!!

Great job with the color matching throughout the rig


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Buildlog - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/73352-project-armada-watercooled-define-r4-titanium-ek-waterblocks-completed-final-photos/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking build....







Just wondering why do you have all your rads in exhaust,wont your case get dirty really quickly....


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Buildlog - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/73352-project-armada-watercooled-define-r4-titanium-ek-waterblocks-completed-final-photos/


That's one hell of a clean build!
good job on the photo shots as well


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like a C70....I did one myself.
> 
> You wont get a much better case for the money.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That singular c47 on the block without the rotary draws my eye like a wart on the forehead of a supermodel......
> 
> Parallel Ram blocks is the way forward but you are hardly lacking pump power,serial would of looked tidier.
> I get the nuclear plant thing tho,Bittech said the same about Arctic Water when it won MOTM.
> 
> As always,you have gone your own way with it...I like that.


Yeah I've been eyeing this case for a long time now when I saw how much I was going to have to do to my Source 210 case just to watercool and seeing all the room available for a 280mm at the top and I could still squeeze my 120mm w/in the loop as well within this case. Seeing builds like yours and a handful of others basically made the decision over going w/ a 540 Air or Source 530 also.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Buildlog - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/73352-project-armada-watercooled-define-r4-titanium-ek-waterblocks-completed-final-photos/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just wow, beautiful and clean build


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


.......

WOAH.

Stunning as usual Darlene! This build MUST be dubbed MOTC

Mod of the Century

Anyways, adding 3mL of Liquid Utopia per Gallon of water right now. Let's see if Mr. FedEx man leaves my package today.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Buildlog - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/73352-project-armada-watercooled-define-r4-titanium-ek-waterblocks-completed-final-photos/


That is a stunning R4! Well done.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> .......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> WOAH.
> 
> Stunning as usual Darlene! This build MUST be dubbed MOTC
> 
> Mod of the Century
> 
> Anyways, adding 3mL of Liquid Utopia per Gallon of water right now. Let's see if Mr. FedEx man leaves my package today.


Why so low? The box says the whole bottle is to treat a full gallon.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Why so low? The box says the whole bottle is to treat a full gallon.


I did a lot of research on how much to put and the general consencus is to put 3Ml per gallon. Turns out Primochill just copied and pasted the instructions from the 3Ml syringe bottles and put them on the 15Ml eye dropper style bottles like I have.

Anyways, I'll be damned if I'm going to pay $15 to treat one gallon of water.


----------



## skupples

& here I just dumped the hole bottle into the gallon. Wonder if i'm now over-treating.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & here I just dumped the hole bottle into the gallon. Wonder if i'm now over-treating.


I'm not going to say that you are definitely over treating, but it's possible. Honestly I would place an order for another bottle and once you get it drain the loop and redo it. Keep an eye out for an excess of white sediment settling in the loop.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'm not going to say that you are definitely over treating, but it's possible. Honestly I would place an order for another bottle and once you get it drain the loop and redo it. Keep an eye out for an excess of white sediment settling in the loop.


I have an extra. May drain today.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have an extra. May drain today.


Yea I think that would be a good idea. Better be safe than sorry!
If you want to read through the thread explaining it here is a link. Read through the entire thing though.:
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1012460

So you jumped your PSU fine? Still getting that cyclone in your bay res?

Jeez I'm in the midst of my 3rd, and worst, day of withdrawals from getting off my pain medication and I have absolutely no patience for this FedEx guy. If he gets here before noon I will tip him! Every sound of a truck I hear turn on my street makes me jump up like a territorial puppy. Need to focus on my computer I've been sitting here polishing my blocks like a madman I've never seen copper shine like it is right now lulz I can see a PERFECT reflection of myself in my GPU blocks.

The doc prescribed my Oxycodone 30mg's for a back injury I ironically received at UPS. Perc 30's as the KIDS call them. Got me hooked on those so Mr. Doc man sent me to an IOP program and they put me on Suboxone for a year to help me get off the Oxy's and now I'm off the Suboxone and deathly ill. Why do they prescribe people this crap???


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I think that would be a good idea. Better be safe than sorry!
> If you want to read through the thread explaining it here is a link. Read through the entire thing though.:
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1012460
> 
> So you jumped your PSU fine? Still getting that cyclone in your bay res?
> 
> Jeez I'm in the midst of my 3rd, and worst, day of withdrawals from getting off my pain medication and I have absolutely no patience for this FedEx guy. If he gets here before noon I will tip him! Every sound of a truck I hear turn on my street makes me jump up like a territorial puppy. Need to focus on my computer I've been sitting here polishing my blocks like a madman I've never seen copper shine like it is right now lulz I can see a PERFECT reflection of myself in my GPU blocks.


Jumped it no problem, I had some CLEAN gas tank filters that I stuffed into the neck of the bay res, seems to be helping with the cyclone. I totally understand that, been sucking buprenorphine for two years now.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Jumped it no problem, I had some CLEAN gas tank filters that I stuffed into the neck of the bay res, seems to be helping with the cyclone. I totally understand that, been sucking buprenorphine for two years now.


That'ss a good idea I feel my body craving vitamin C at the moment. Glad you got that cyclone sorted. They do sell anti-cyclone G1/4 caps I'm sure that would help. I have an Alphacool Dual D5 bay res and haven't had a problem with cycloning even with 3 MCP655's in the loop, but the res has the anti-cyclone adapters pre-installed so that might be why.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=26459


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Why so low? The box says the whole bottle is to treat a full gallon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I did a lot of research on how much to put and the general consencus is to put 3Ml per gallon. Turns out Primochill just copied and pasted the instructions from the 3Ml syringe bottles and put them on the 15Ml eye dropper style bottles like I have.
> 
> Anyways, I'll be damned if I'm going to pay $15 to treat one gallon of water.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & here I just dumped the hole bottle into the gallon. Wonder if i'm now over-treating.


I am sorry but Skupples is right, I called up Primochill and confirmed the bottle product is a diluted version of the older syringe so you need to add the whole 15 mL in the bottle to a gallon of water. That overclockers oz forum thread is mistaken and no even in there even bother to call up and confirm.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> .......
> 
> WOAH.
> 
> Stunning as usual Darlene! This build MUST be dubbed MOTC
> 
> Mod of the Century
> 
> Anyways, adding 3mL of Liquid Utopia per Gallon of water right now. Let's see if Mr. FedEx man leaves my package today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


good to see a label for a type of distilled water I could use, now guessing it's best to treat with an anti-corrosive/bacterial chemical to ensure no issues other than using a kill coil?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That'ss a good idea I feel my body craving vitamin C at the moment. Glad you got that cyclone sorted. They do sell anti-cyclone G1/4 caps I'm sure that would help. I have an Alphacool Dual D5 bay res and haven't had a problem with cycloning even with 3 MCP655's in the loop, but the res has the anti-cyclone adapters pre-installed so that might be why.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=26459


The cyclone is forming @ the top of the res, not @ the fittings.



Had to use 2x the amount of foam provided to make it stahp.


----------



## stickg1

Couldn't you just use a drop or two of citric acid or copper sulfate as a biocide for your distilled water loop?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Couldn't you just use a drop or two of citric acid or copper sulfate as a biocide for your distilled water loop?


They could use a copper sulfate like Nuke or Dead Water (don't know about citric acid) but the Liquid Utopia they are using is supposed to be a biocide and an anti-corrosive also, which I assume is why they are using it / paid more for it.


----------



## MiiX

I never taught that fans could be this quiet at 1850 RPM...


And soon I'l be starting to mod my top to fit 3 of these... Just need to find a 360 grill...

@Topic:
Anyone know a grill that is 385mm or shorter? width is not a problem... Just need a good looking grill...
EDIT: preferably matte black


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am sorry but Skupples is right, I called up Primochill and confirmed the bottle product is a diluted version of the older syringe so you need to add the whole 15 mL in the bottle to a gallon of water. That overclockers oz forum thread is mistaken and no even in there even bother to call up and confirm.


Hmm well I'm wrong then people! I've read of people encountering no growth after months of the loop running with 3mL of LU from the eye dropper bottle so I'm sticking with that. Again, I'll be damned if I'm paying $15 to treat 1 gallon of water







Thanks for clarifying that though! REP for you!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I never taught that fans could be this quiet at 1850 RPM...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And soon I'l be starting to mod my top to fit 3 of these... Just need to find a 360 grill...
> 
> @Topic:
> Anyone know a grill that is 385mm or shorter? width is not a problem... Just need a good looking grill...
> EDIT: preferably matte black


Maybe here ...

http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-alphacool-ek-bitspower-hardwarelabs-heatkiller-liquid-cooling/360-radiator-grills/


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> They could use a copper sulfate like Nuke or Dead Water (don't know about citric acid) but the Liquid Utopia they are using is supposed to be a biocide and an anti-corrosive also, which I assume is why they are using it / paid more for it.


PT nuke has minute amounts of bleach in it as well I believe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> good to see a label for a type of distilled water I could use, now guessing it's best to treat with an anti-corrosive/bacterial chemical to ensure no issues other than using a kill coil?


Should be 1-2$ a gallon.


----------



## rickyman0319

If you put the rad on top of the case with fan, are you suppose to put fan filter on it or not?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I never taught that fans could be this quiet at 1850 RPM...
> 
> 
> And soon I'l be starting to mod my top to fit 3 of these... Just need to find a 360 grill...
> 
> @Topic:
> Anyone know a grill that is 385mm or shorter? width is not a problem... Just need a good looking grill...
> EDIT: preferably matte black


Best looking 360 grill available.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39128


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Maybe here ...
> 
> http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-alphacool-ek-bitspower-hardwarelabs-heatkiller-liquid-cooling/360-radiator-grills/


I noticed them, il ask if they've got some in matte black.... Wait, if I do my front in the same color acrylic, that would maybe be awesome.... Now, this is hard...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Best looking 360 grill available.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39128


Oh, my, god... That looks sick, as im going to have intake from the top anyway, I wont have the "supports" up...


----------



## IT Diva

I got some better pics of my mobo plumbing plan.

I fixed the run off the CPU block to something that maintains a consistent look while allowing precise positioning to the pass thru on the back chassis panel, and changed the Revolver fitting to a C47.

I think it looks much better. . . . . and if I change out the triple rotary 90's at the top of the ram blocks to regular rotary 90's like on the lower ram block, that should give a bit more consistency
. I did and it does . . . .













I'm still on the fence about the red bits at the bottoms, where the fittings screw into the blocks.

The red C47's plus the lower red bits really accentuate the fittings from the tubes, but if I just keep the C47's, and nix the bottom bits, the overall look may "flow" a little better.

The lower bits are all the same, and there's enough clearance without them, so once the block gets here, I will try it both ways, with and without.

Darlene

Edit to Add:

So I changed out the upper ram block 90's, and it's looking pretty sweet:


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> If you put the rad on top of the case with fan, are you suppose to put fan filter on it or not?


It depends if you are exhausting or intaking air, and also if you are bothered by dust or not.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It depends if you are exhausting or intaking air, and also if you are bothered by dust or not.


I am bothered by dust, I want the fan as clean as possible.

fan filter on front fan (intake)
bottom fan (intake)

top fan for radiador (exhaust)
rear fan (exhaust)

which fan I need it and which fan I don't?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am bothered by dust, I want the fan as clean as possible.
> 
> fan filter on front fan (intake)
> bottom fan (intake)
> 
> top fan for radiador (exhaust)
> rear fan (exhaust)
> 
> which fan I need it and which fan I don't?


You want filters on intakes, because they blow air into the case.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You want filters on intakes, because they blow air into the case.


THAT is what I forgot! I knew I forgot something! Especially with this MM case how could I forget intake filters with these 38mm thick Ultra Kaze fans!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> THAT is what I forgot! I knew I forgot something! Especially with this MM case how could I forget intake filters!


I use these Silverstone filters. They are fantastic.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> PT nuke has minute amounts of bleach in it as well I believe.
> Should be 1-2$ a gallon.


well damn, that's alot more inexpensive for the route I'm trying to go w/ my first custom water cooled loop on a "tight" budget. especially since I still have to flush the components too and would prefer to use this to flush w/ the sys prep stuff that came w/ my tubing, or is that a bad idea to use the Primochill sys prep stuff? Also should I use the tubing I bought to flush with as well, or use the cheap-o tubing I was going to use but was highly advised not to use it due to chances of plastcizer and clouding in the tubing?


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> How big a ST30 are you getting? But the ST30 is so thin I don't think P/P adds much.


will UT60 (240) w/ NF-12 ( or viper) push only for enough for 4770k @ 4.4ghz or 4.5ghz (1.35v max)? or not?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

No tip for you FedEx man. Off to work to dream about coming home and playing with ma new toys!


----------



## skupples

People tip the delivery man?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> People tip the delivery man?


I was going to tip for Christmas and for the fact that I wouldn't have to sit at work drooling over it all day. If I could have at least held it and opened it before work it wouldn't have been so bad.

Yep... I'm crazy. I KNOW


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What do you guys think about this one, thinking about grabbing it since it comes w/ dual pumps. I think my TH10 would have plenty of room for it.
> 
> The premium monsoon w/ multiple LED changing. anyone using one of these?


I'm using one. They are fantastic, no issues at all. The left button toggles the light intensity by turning on one or both sets of leds (each side has two). The right button toggles the colors.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What do you guys think about this one, thinking about grabbing it since it comes w/ dual pumps. I think my TH10 would have plenty of room for it.
> 
> The premium monsoon w/ multiple LED changing. anyone using one of these?


I'm also using one, no problems whatsoever and very high quality. A+ in my book.


----------



## Egami

Zen found.


----------



## waveaddict

Anyone has any experience with the Black Ice GT stealth x-flow rads.The fact I could come in one end and out the other would make tube routing nice.
I would be using Akasa vipers and either a ek D5 pump/res or ek DDC setup.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Zen found.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I only have one question about this build, how did you get the 24 pin to go through the acrylic in such a way that it looks like you literally drilled 24x holes and braided it through? Is it photoshop magic?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Anyone has any experience with the Black Ice GT stealth x-flow rads.The fact I could come in one end and out the other would make tube routing nice.
> I would be using Akasa vipers and either a ek D5 pump/res or ek DDC setup.


I have one of those too lol
Performance is good with Ap-15s though I have no other rad to compare it too. The screw holes suck though, the whole rad it basically held on by two screws for me, all the others where stripped and the screws they provide aren't even metal screw. This may just be user error or a lemon, either way next time I would check out the XSPC x-flow rads.


----------



## valvehead

Oh, FedEx. Why do you tease me so?









Last night:



This morning:



OK, I knew it couldn't possibly get here that quick, but why did they have to give me hope?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What do you guys think about this one, thinking about grabbing it since it comes w/ dual pumps. I think my TH10 would have plenty of room for it.
> 
> The premium monsoon w/ multiple LED changing. anyone using one of these?


Are you sure that it has dual pumps? I thought it only had a single D5!


----------



## VSG

Just ordered yet more fittings and random parts from PPC, they must be having me on their 'Best customer of the month" wall by now.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I only have one question about this build, how did you get the 24 pin to go through the acrylic in such a way that it looks like you literally drilled 24x holes and braided it through? Is it photoshop magic?


By drilling 24 holes and braiding it through.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Are you sure that it has dual pumps? I thought it only had a single D5!


Description states dual theres basic 1 basic 2 premium 1 and premium dual. Ill post the link when I get out of bed. I like to wake up to reading this thread


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Oh, FedEx. Why do you tease me so?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last night:
> 
> 
> 
> This morning:
> 
> 
> 
> OK, I knew it couldn't possibly get here that quick, but why did they have to give me hope?


Well I'm glad I'm not the only one FedEx has been screwing with lately!


----------



## msgclb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What do you guys think about this one, thinking about grabbing it since it comes w/ dual pumps. I think my TH10 would have plenty of room for it.
> 
> The premium monsoon w/ multiple LED changing. anyone using one of these?


They are *Series Two* and *Dual Reservoir*.

** Ships fully assembled-just add your pump!*

The wording is confusing!

I just signed for **** NEW *** Monsoon Series Two D5 Basic Dual 5.25" Reservoir - Matte Black*.

I won't start working on this installation until next week.

The back of your version has a colorful cover.



where as mine doesn't.


----------



## skupples

I'm lucky, PPC is only 3 hours from me. The cheapest shipping option of 7$(FedEx) is always next day.

I don't really see how that res can handle two pumps. I think it's Monsoon Series #2, D5, dual bay.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I have one of those too lol
> Performance is good with Ap-15s though I have no other rad to compare it too. The screw holes suck though, the whole rad it basically held on by two screws for me, all the others where stripped and the screws they provide aren't even metal screw. This may just be user error or a lemon, either way next time I would check out the XSPC x-flow rads.


Cool,thanks.didn't know XSPC had x-flow rads,looks way better.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> will UT60 (240) w/ NF-12 ( or viper) push only for enough for 4770k @ 4.4ghz or 4.5ghz (1.35v max)? or not?


Well an XT45 P/P would be better than a UT60 with Push. I'm not sure about an ST30.

A 240 is basically the minimum recommended for cooling only a CPU. You'll be fine if you don't have crazy expectations

One thing for sure though, if you're going with 120 fans, you should rethink your choices. Akasa Vipers are great 140 fans, especially cuz there's not alot of competition.

There's way better 120's than Vipers and NF-F12's. You'd be much better off with either Gentle Typhoon's, Any E-Loops, SP120's, or even Silverstone Air Penetrators.

I've heard great things about Alpenfohn Wing Boosts lately, but haven't seen any kind of testing done yet...


----------



## rickyman0319

I recently bought F12 already last few month ago and viper last few wks go for my built.

I just want to follow my mb theme. that is gold, yellow or orange fans. I know there is a lot of good fans.

maybe when I built black and red theme system, I will thinking about Silverstone Air Penetrators, Sp120 or YL middle speed (red led) fans. which one is good for it?


----------



## stickg1

Well I started getting parts in! I don't think it's full on pr0n, but perhaps late night Skin-a-Max?


----------



## kcuestag

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial-csq-plexi.html

Would that be the appropiate bridge I need if I wanted to use my cards in slots 1 and 4 (First and 3rd red slots of my Rampage IV Extreme, as if it were Tri-Fire)?

Too bad they don't make clean versions, don't quite like the CSQ frosted, but I'll deal with it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial-csq-plexi.html
> 
> Would that be the appropiate bridge I need if I wanted to use my cards in slots 1 and 4 (First and 3rd red slots of my Rampage IV Extreme, as if it were Tri-Fire)?
> 
> Too bad they don't make clean versions, don't quite like the CSQ frosted, but I'll deal with it.


Do the AMD blocks follow the CSQ design? It's how they signify the different series of blocks. Anyways, if the AMD cards are CSQ then that's the correct link, you will also need a blank. one of these. The specifications say parallel only, but i'm not positive if that's true or not.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19690/ex-blc-1448/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Blank_Parallel_EK-FC_Terminal_BLANK_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060

Anyone know if using the 2 in 1 VGA cabls restricts any sort of power in comparison to using two lines per GPU?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Do the AMD blocks follow the CSQ design? It's how they signify the different series of blocks. Anyways, if the AMD cards are CSQ then that's the correct link, you will also need a blank. one of these. The specifications say parallel only, but i'm not positive if that's true or not.


No, they're clean blocks, these:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel.html

Sadly I don't think EK makes any clean bridges.







Please correct me if I'm wrong, I'd love clean ones.

IS that blank/block really needed? Shouldn't it be included in the bridge?









Or instead I'd go for the same model but dual instead of triple (so only max of 2 cards).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> No, they're clean blocks, these:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel.html
> 
> Sadly I don't think EK makes any clean bridges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please correct me if I'm wrong, I'd love clean ones.
> 
> IS that blank/block really needed? Shouldn't it be included in the bridge?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or instead I'd go for the same model but dual instead of triple (so only max of 2 cards).


They do not include the blank, it must be used, only way to plug the oval ports... Here

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19436/ex-blc-1434/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Serial_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2060

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060

same blank, EK-FC(Clean CSQ bridge) The difference? The port shape, on CSQ blocks it's round, on the FC-clean CSQ they are ovals.

I hate navigating EK's store.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They do not include the blank, it must be used, only way to plug the oval ports... Here
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19436/ex-blc-1434/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Serial_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2060
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060
> 
> same blank, EK-FC(Clean CSQ bridge) The difference? The port shape, on CSQ blocks it's round, on the FC-clean CSQ they are ovals.
> 
> I hate navigating EK's store.


What about this bridge?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial-3-slot-csq-plexi.html

It's Dual, so I shouldn't need the blank since I'm only going to use 2 cards, right?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What about this bridge?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial-3-slot-csq-plexi.html
> 
> It's Dual, so I shouldn't need the blank since I'm only going to use 2 cards, right?


Trying to use slots 1 & 4? I don't think it will work w/ 1 & 4, I have the dual triple slot, & it doesn't fit.


----------



## skupples

sry for double post.



We had to answer this question multiple times in the new Rive:BE thread, i'm almost positive this was the answer. Tri-sli bridge + blank.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> No, they're clean blocks, these:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel.html
> 
> Sadly I don't think EK makes any clean bridges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please correct me if I'm wrong, I'd love clean ones.
> 
> IS that blank/block really needed? Shouldn't it be included in the bridge?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or instead I'd go for the same model but dual instead of triple (so only max of 2 cards).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What about this bridge?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-dual-serial-3-slot-csq-plexi.html
> 
> It's Dual, so I shouldn't need the blank since I'm only going to use 2 cards, right?


I thought for that block, you can only use FC terminal, like this:-

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-dual-serial-3-slot.html

[EDIT] Sorry, wrong terminal. This one:-
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial-csq.html

...and you need blanks:-
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-blank-serial.html

Your cards in the first & last blue slots right?


----------



## kcuestag

Interesting, thanks guys!! That black clean block definitely looks better than frosted CSQ.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I thought for that block, you can only use FC terminal, like this:-
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-dual-serial-3-slot.html


That would work for slot 1 & 3 but not slot 1 & 4.

see picture.


(that's what i'm holding up in my hand)

slots 1 & 4 are the 16x slots, my cards are 16,8,16( 1, 2 & 4) using the tri-sli bridge.


----------



## pc-illiterate

yeah the terminals only. the bridge will NOT work.
also youll need to use slots 1 and 3. 1 and 4 will not be possible.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yeah the terminals only. the bridge will NOT work.
> also youll need to use slots 1 and 3. 1 and 4 will not be possible.


slot 3 is 8x only on vanilla rive. Why is it not possible? The board is capable of running 16x16x in dual-sli.





As you can see in the second picture, the 2 & 3 slot's are not fully pinned, which means they can only ever run @ 8x. If you want to run dual sli @ 16x16x you have to run slots 1 & 4, which can be done w/ tri-sli bridge & a blank.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hellll yesss my package came and I had the GF bring it inside only 4 1/2 hours left of work and then I can go home and get those Fujipoly Extreme thermal pads on all of my 7950s, get the heatkiller block on the MSI TFIII, backplates on the other 7950s w/ Alphacool blocks, EK Monarch RAM Modules on the G.Skill 2133Mhz, plumb the rest of my tubing and start leak testing! I've been down for almost three weeks and its been hell.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That would work for slot 1 & 3 but not slot 1 & 4.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> see picture.
> 
> 
> (that's what i'm holding up in my hand)
> 
> slots 1 & 4 are the 16x slots, my cards are 16,8,16( 1, 2 & 4) using the tri-sli bridge.


Correct! Edited my post.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yeah the terminals only. the bridge will NOT work.
> also youll need to use slots 1 and 3. 1 and 4 will not be possible.
> 
> 
> 
> slot 3 is 8x only on vanilla rive. Why is it not possible? The board is capable of running 16x16x in dual-sli.
Click to expand...

I think pc meant that with 3-slot terminal, you can't use with slot 1 & 4, only slot 1 & 3.


----------



## skupples

gotchya, figured I would bust out the pictures, as this confuses allot of people. They don't fully pin certain slots to allow for better trace layout. We have done this a few times now in the riv:be thread.


----------



## kcuestag

So to be clear, as I want slot 1 and 4 on my RIVE (Both reds), which specific terminal (I want serial cooling) should I go for?

I'm going nuts, thank you guys.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> So to be clear, as I want slot 1 and 4 on my RIVE (Both reds), which specific terminal (I want serial cooling) should I go for?
> 
> I'm going nuts, thank you guys.


You want the tri-sli clean CSQ terminal, the only problem is that the sites say that the links are only compatible with Parallel flow, i'm not sure how that part works.

this The issue is that frozenCPU lists the blanks as only compatible with parallel flow.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> So to be clear, as I want slot 1 and 4 on my RIVE (Both reds), which specific terminal (I want serial cooling) should I go for?
> 
> I'm going nuts, thank you guys.


This one:-
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-triple-serial-csq.html

...and blanks:-
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-blank-serial.html


----------



## skupples

Aha! a serial blank does exist!

OK, must get back to wiring.


----------



## kcuestag

Thank you guys, much appreciated!


----------



## skupples

Mommy always told me to never talk to the police, but in this case I made an exception.


----------



## nepToon

Case is an Arc Midi. crappy pic from my smartphone :S

Hope you like


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Mommy always told me to never talk to the police, but in this case I made an exception.


I just had an interesting encounter with the police lol


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Mommy always told me to never talk to the police, but in this case I made an exception.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i still dont understand why you say the slots are 16x, 8x, 8x, 16x
everything i ever read says the red slots are 16x on all 4 when using dual sli.

also didnt realize you were counting the grey/black slot as an actual slot. so it isnt 1 and 4 you want 1 and 3 because youre using the red slots 1 and 3...


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Case is an Arc Midi. crappy pic from my smartphone :S
> 
> Hope you like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!


I likey. Cute and tidy but not too tiny.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i still dont understand why you say the slots are 16x, 8x, 8x, 16x
> everything i ever read says the red slots are 16x on all 4 when using dual sli.
> 
> also didnt realize you were counting the grey/black slot as an actual slot. so it isnt 1 and 4 you want 1 and 3 because youre using the red slots 1 and 3...


Vanilla rive & Rive:BE are spaced the same. The only difference is that they ditched the black 8x with a 1x slot. If you want to run dual 16x you have to use slot #1 & #4.


If you look very closely @ these pci-e lanes you will see that the pins only go half way down #2 & #3, this means they can only ever function as 8x lines.


you can see the pinning better here.


look @ where the socket meets the motherboard, you will see that the lanes only have pins half way down, accept for the 1st & 4th slot.


----------



## WebsterXC

That's not right. Look at the NewEgg ad. Dual at 16x, triple at 16/8/16. This represents the slot that it corresponds to. Dual 16x assumes you're putting the GPU in the first and second slots. Yeah some boards don't have pins filling the whole slot but NewEgg also advertises that the third slot has 16x capabilities.

Edit: Read the description of the RIVE, all the slots are 16x compatible except for the last. Select slots only run 8x in multi GPU configurations because of bandwidth issues. It doesn't even make sense to have the 2nd and 3rd slots simply missing pins, its almost always the last slot on the board missing pins.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i wont even comment as to who would count the black/grey slot with the red slots. no one has. its 8x on every mobo its on. you dont count it with the red slots. you say, the grey 8x slot.people wonder why others get confused.
slots 1, 2, 3, 4 and the black 8x slot.

and im done with the subject. no point in any of this going further. try not to confuse people in the future.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> That's not right. Look at the NewEgg ad. Dual at 16x, triple at 16/8/16. This represents the slot that it corresponds to. Dual 16x assumes you're putting the GPU in the first and second slots. Yeah some boards don't have pins filling the whole slot but NewEgg also advertises that the third slot has 16x capabilities.


exactly webster. they count only the red slots as everyone else does. i guess some people like to claim they can add 5 gpus if they want...


----------



## LunaP

Crap posted in the WRONG thread sorry.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i wont even comment as to who would count the black/grey slot with the red slots. no one has. its 8x on every mobo its on. you dont count it with the red slots. you say, the grey 8x slot.people wonder why others get confused.
> slots 1, 2, 3, 4 and the black 8x slot.


You only count it for placement. It's the 3rd slot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> That's not right. Look at the NewEgg ad. Dual at 16x, triple at 16/8/16. This represents the slot that it corresponds to. Dual 16x assumes you're putting the GPU in the first and second slots. Yeah some boards don't have pins filling the whole slot but NewEgg also advertises that the third slot has 16x capabilities.


Incorrect, newegg clearly states that the black slot is 3.0 x16 @ 8x



Look @ the pinning. This isn't like the Max V formula where all slots are capable of 16x, they purposely half-pin certain sockets so that they have better trace routes. You can see it really well in the overhead shot. The black slot only has pins half way down the socket.


----------



## Durvelle27

Can i join


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Only slot 1 and 4 are x16 on RIVE. The others are all electrically x8 in x16, they can't do x16.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-connection-parts/ek-fc-bridge-triple-serial-csq-plexi.html
> 
> Would that be the appropiate bridge I need if I wanted to use my cards in slots 1 and 4 (First and 3rd red slots of my Rampage IV Extreme, as if it were Tri-Fire)?
> 
> Too bad they don't make clean versions, don't quite like the CSQ frosted, but I'll deal with it.


I'm not going I get into the "which slots are which speed" debate, I don't own that board, but looking at the pins on the back of the board should answer the question there.

As to the block, to use the first slot and fourth slots, you should use http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16697/ex-blc-1186/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acetal_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ.html?tl=g30c101s873

It's made specifically for that spacing in parallel, and this one for serial, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12180/ex-blc-825/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Serial_-_3-Slot_-_SLI_Connection_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Serial_3_-Slot.html?tl=g30c101s873.

I hope this helps.


----------



## skupples

It's not a debate, it's solid fact. 1 & 4 are the only ones that will actually run @ 16x speed. The rest are 3.0 16x slots @ 8x


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering fan adapter I shall buy.

the bottom fan mount is 140mm fan hole. I want to put 120mm fan in it. do I buy 120 to 140 fan adapter or 140 to 120 fan adapter?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

User manual


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's not a debate, it's solid fact. 1 & 4 are the only ones that will actually run @ 16x speed. The rest are 3.0 16x slots @ 8x


I know this and agree with you completely, but his question was about the bridge. And since I don't personally own the board, I didn't feel a need to postulate my thought on it. Since I DO own a board with a similar layout for the PCIe slots and have watercooled cards in slots #1 & #4 and used those bridges, I felt that I had a firsthand knowledge enough to answer on the bridge question.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone know if using the 2 in 1 VGA cabls restricts any sort of power in comparison to using two lines per GPU?


Maximum current draw over PCIe cables is 2 amps for 6-pin cables, and 4 amps for 8-pin cables. So even a cable that would split an 8pins into 2x8pins would still be fine with the 18AWG wire they tend to use.

TL;DR - it's fine


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I know this and agree with you completely, but his question was about the bridge. And since I don't personally own the board, I didn't feel a need to postulate my thought on it. Since I DO own a board with a similar layout for the PCIe slots and have watercooled cards in slots #1 & #4 and used those bridges, I felt that I had a firsthand knowledge enough to answer on the bridge question.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Maximum current draw over PCIe cables is 2 amps for 6-pin cables, and 4 amps for 8-pin cables. So even a cable that would split an 8pins into 2x8pins would still be fine with the 18AWG wire they tend to use.
> 
> TL;DR - it's fine


some documentation linked by AlancSalt hinted @ ^^^ wire possibly handling more power than a dual cable solution. Suffice to say, it will be fine though.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I thought it was 8A for those cables @+12V?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> That's not right. Look at the NewEgg ad. Dual at 16x, triple at 16/8/16. This represents the slot that it corresponds to. Dual 16x assumes you're putting the GPU in the first and second slots. Yeah some boards don't have pins filling the whole slot but NewEgg also advertises that the third slot has 16x capabilities.
> 
> Edit: Read the description of the RIVE, all the slots are 16x compatible except for the last. Select slots only run 8x in multi GPU configurations because of bandwidth issues. It doesn't even make sense to have the 2nd and 3rd slots simply missing pins, its almost always the last slot on the board missing pins.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> That's not right. Look at the NewEgg ad. Dual at 16x, triple at 16/8/16. This represents the slot that it corresponds to. Dual 16x assumes you're putting the GPU in the first and second slots. Yeah some boards don't have pins filling the whole slot but NewEgg also advertises that the third slot has 16x capabilities.
> 
> Edit: Read the description of the RIVE, all the slots are 16x compatible except for the last. Select slots only run 8x in multi GPU configurations because of bandwidth issues. It doesn't even make sense to have the 2nd and 3rd slots simply missing pins, its almost always the last slot on the board missing pins.


Mate you are incorrect the 16x are 1 and 3

you don't have a R4E I do and even the User Guide it shows

PCIE_X16_1
PCIE_X8_2A
PCIE_X8_2B
PCIE_X16/8_3
PCIE_X8_4

so as you can see they are 8X not 16X


----------



## skupples

top slot, 16x, next slot, 8x, slot after that, 8x(black slot, removed on black edition because it's useless), slot after that 16X. The 2a & 2b stuff just confuses people.

we have beat this to death.

here.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I thought it was 8A for those cables @+12V?


Well, let's do the math, PCIe 8-pin is rated to deliver 150 watts, that's 37.5 watts per 12v wire in the 8-pin, 37.5 watts divided by 12v is 3.125amp per wire. So an 8-pin would actually be at 12.5amps for the whole connector. I don't have my ugly book to look up the amperage allowed per AWG wire.

I believe that's correct at least.......


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> top slot, 16x, next slot, 8x, slot after that, 8x(black slot, removed on black edition because it's useless), slot after that 16X. The 2a & 2b stuff just confuses people.


if it confuses or not I don't know but the black slot is not counted for GPU use
as it is shown in the User Guide that's all im saying mate


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Well, let's do the math, PCIe 8-pin is rated to deliver 150 watts, that's 37.5 watts per 12v wire in the 8-pin, 37.5 watts divided by 12v is 3.125amp per wire. So an 8-pin would actually be at 12.5amps for the whole connector. I don't have my ugly book to look up the amperage allowed per AWG wire.
> 
> I believe that's correct at least.......


Well, the thing is that the PCI-E certification is kind of underrated. It's not what the cables can pull AFAIK







. The connectors can and will pull more under a hefty OC than it's rated at.

I believe they were rated at 8A per +12V pin but my source could be wrong. (Was some TPU article I think)


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i wont even comment as to who would count the black/grey slot with the red slots. no one has. its 8x on every mobo its on. you dont count it with the red slots. you say, the grey 8x slot.people wonder why others get confused.
> slots 1, 2, 3, 4 and the black 8x slot.
> 
> and im done with the subject. no point in any of this going further. try not to confuse people in the future.
> exactly webster. they count only the red slots as everyone else does. *i guess some people like to claim they can add 5 gpus if they want...*


Imagine doing this with 7 powercolor LCS 6990s:

assuming the cards pull only the allowable wattage from the board, that's 75W*7=525W, or roughly 44A @ 12V. I have a hard time believing the ATX connector/motherboard wouldn't melt, given that the board doesn't have something like dual EPS-12V connectors next to the PCIe slots...

At best, the board was built to handle 4x AMD/3x Nvidia cards for quadfire/3x SLI. 4*75W is still 300W/25A @ 12V, which is no small chunk of power to pull though the atx connector.

For all this, I assume that the EPS connector on the board only feeds the CPU. if it feeds the whole board's 12V system, then 8 pairs of EPS power could see 525W+130W+=655W = 55A @ 12V, or 6.75A per EPS wire, which is at least back into the real of less likely to cause a fire. I'm not sure what the ATX connector is rated for 12V power.


----------



## LunaP

Can you guys point me to some sexy compression fittings (and anything else I might need) for 1/2 OD 3/8 ID acrylic tubing? I think it's all that's left I need. Need recommendations for good brands.

Think I'll bite the bullet and just grab 32 GT AP-15's for 500$ -_- EVERYONE is swearing by them.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Can you guys point me to some sexy compression fittings (and anything else I might need) for 1/2 OD 3/8 ID acrylic tubing? I think it's all that's left I need. Need recommendations for good brands.
> 
> Think I'll bite the bullet and just grab 32 GT AP-15's for 500$ -_- EVERYONE is swearing by them.


Definitely a great choice with the GT's. Especially since it seems it's pretty confirmed they're a dying breed.

As far as sexy acrylic compressions.....

Right now there's only a few choices. If by "sexy" you mean more colors than black & silver, then your choices are either Primochill Revolver Fittings or Bitspower C47's/C48's.

But, if you're not in an insane rush to get the fittins, monsoon's about to release their entire line in acrylic versions. That's what im personally waiting for


----------



## nappy

First build


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quick question guys. I am about to travel for 2 weeks (system in sig). Running ek coolant. Would be wise to drain the loop and not let it rest for that time in a row or am I being too over cautious?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

6 pages of off topic ramblings...a new low....

This is not a thread for that,take it somewhere else.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quick question guys. I am about to travel for 2 weeks (system in sig). Running ek coolant. Would be wise to drain the loop and not let it rest for that time in a row or am I being too over cautious?


I understand!

I would personally leave it running @ all default clocks. Draining the loop would allow the rads to oxidize, & leaving it with the fluid in could allow the fluid to settle. Just my









Sry B, all started with Senior mod trying to figure out what bridge to use, & turned into counting slots semantics. Then once people started making incorrect statements such as every slot on rive being capable of 16x we had to drop the knowledge.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 6 pages of off topic ramblings...a new low....
> 
> This is not a thread for that,take it somewhere else.


Just show some pics of your current build. The ole lady is asleep and I'm tired of my current pron collection!

lol


----------



## skupples




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 6 pages of off topic ramblings...a new low....
> 
> This is not a thread for that,take it somewhere else.
> 
> 
> 
> Just show some pics of your current build. The ole lady is asleep and I'm tired of my current pron collection!
> 
> lol
Click to expand...

I'm deliding the 4770 tomorrow and fitting the BP block,more pron then.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm deliding the 4770 tomorrow and fitting the BP block,more pron then.


I expect a mirror shine on that IHS too!!


----------



## stickg1

Just ditch the IHS, direct die babe!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm deliding the 4770 tomorrow and fitting the BP block,more pron then.


First delid?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> But, if you're not in an insane rush to get the fittins, monsoon's about to release their entire line in acrylic versions. That's what im personally waiting for


Even though I already bought Primochill ones, I think I may still get those Monsoon ones once they come out. At least more choices of stuff for acrylic tubes are coming out.


----------



## kot0005

Ppc's and Frozen CPU have the bending kits in stock now


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *kot0005*
> 
> Ppc's and Frozen CPU have the bending kits in stock now


Yeah, which is awesome, but we're all still waiting for their Hardline Tubing & Fittings to be released =)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I expect a mirror shine on that IHS too!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I expect a mirror shine on that IHS too!!


This took 5 minutes at most.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-32-1.jpg.html


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It looks like you half-sorted the problem out yourself with the adapter cables you ordered with the PCB. Only issue you might run into is that the all the MMT 4Pin -> 3Pin adapter cables i can find have a male molex end, just like the PCB does. If it's a male molex, THIS Female to female adapter will fix that part of the issue.
> 
> Other issue is you're not gonna have RPM feedback from the PCB. From the cables i saw, it seems they take the 12v & Ground from the Molex and send it to the proper pins on a 3Pin fan connector with an empty 3rd wire. You should be able make your PCB perform exactly as you want it by taking the 3rd (RPM) wire/pin out of any ONE of the connectors you're plugging into the PCB and plugging it into that 3rd empty slot from the adapter cable.
> 
> Then you'll have a full functioning fan-splitter with rpm feedback
> 
> Hope this helps


Thanks for the tips! I'll see what I can come up with. Got my Dremel yesterday and begun modding while waiting for the rest of the gear to arrive.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> This took 5 minutes at most.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-32-1.jpg.html


When it comes to lapping the CPU, does it make it harder to sell later ? And would a FX8350 benefit from it much ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Just ditch the IHS, direct die babe!


Seen a lot of PCB warps,wont be going that route...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm deliding the 4770 tomorrow and fitting the BP block,more pron then.
> 
> 
> 
> First delid?
Click to expand...

Yup. vice and hammer FTW.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seen a lot of PCB warps,wont be going that route...


Yup, heard a few horror stories of applying a tad bit too much pressure and damage occurs. I think ek has a disclaimer that they're not responsible for damage on their "naked" kit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup. vice and hammer FTW.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Wow. 4 days, and I was behind 770 posts in this thread. You people move fast


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nappy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First build


Those pictures are way too small, I cant see anything on them.
Looks sweet from 500m away though









When using an imagehoosting site always make sure to open the picture completely in the browser and use that URL.
The URLs they send you after an upload can be resized versions.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Well, the thing is that the PCI-E certification is kind of underrated. It's not what the cables can pull AFAIK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The connectors can and will pull more under a hefty OC than it's rated at.


Fair enough, maybe Skupples can let us know how high his overclock is on his Titans









But even he unlocks his Titans and get them to pull, say 300W each, and he uses one of those doubled up wires like he asked about, then it's only going to pull total 6.25 amps on each wire. Still well within spec for 18AWG. In that case I'd be more worried about how the auxiliary power for the motherboard is wired, since this needs to deliver 150W as well.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Fair enough, maybe Skupples can let us know how high his overclock is on his Titans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But even he unlocks his Titans and get them to pull, say 300W each, and he uses one of those doubled up wires like he asked about, then it's only going to pull total 6.25 amps on each wire. Still well within spec for 18AWG. In that case I'd be more worried about how the auxiliary power for the motherboard is wired, since this needs to deliver 150W as well.


well, in the previous tower 2x titans were running 1300mhz @ 7ghz off of those same lines, w/o the extra molex power. In this rig i'll be running 3x, w/ the extra molex power & hopefully push all three above 1300/7ghz. ~1.328v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> When it comes to lapping the CPU, does it make it harder to sell later ? And would a FX8350 benefit from it much ?


depends who you are selling it to. Iv'e had people PM'ing me to buy my lapped & delidded 3570k ever since I listed it as "Scrap" in my sig.

some one the other day said something along the lines of "the nickel flakes/corrodes because the copper underneath is corroding" is this correct?


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Even though I already bought Primochill ones, I think I may still get those Monsoon ones once they come out. At least more choices of stuff for acrylic tubes are coming out.


Yeah I got myself some primochill revolver fittings as well. Any advantages of the Monsoon ones coming out? Any pics?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

What's the downside for using Ethylene Glycol? I'm sure some of you have tried.


----------



## skupples

Supposedly it can reduce cooling performance if too much is used, & if too little is used it won't properly protect the system.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> When it comes to lapping the CPU, does it make it harder to sell later ? And would a FX8350 benefit from it much ?


For Intel it wouldn't make a difference if the CPU was delidded as it already had no warranty. Selling delidded CPUs is pretty easy though. People who are afraid to do the mod like to grab them up.


----------



## tiborrr12

FX83xx will not benefit much from IHS lapping as it is fairly even. Get the best TIM you can find and call it a day. Don't forget to cool the VRMs or they will cook!


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


Darn, looks like I lost that battle. Oh well learned some good info haha.

Hazzah!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Damn so I got my loop together and it looks like something is wrong with my MCP655-b. There is absolutely no pressure now. From what I can see all the tubes are filled, but I can't even see the water moving so it must be moving extremely slowly. I don't know how it could've died since I took my loop apart a couple weeks ago. I have it going from the bay res > MCP655-b > heatkiller 79x0 > Swiftech Apogee HD > Alphacool UT60 280mm radiator > res. Any idea what is wrong here? Is this too much pressure?


----------



## skupples

Anyone who might have experience with ADD2PSU PLEASE PM me.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Damn so I got my loop together and it looks like something is wrong with my MCP655-b. There is absolutely no pressure now. From what I can see all the tubes are filled, but I can't even see the water moving so it must be moving extremely slowly. I don't know how it could've died since I took my loop apart a couple weeks ago. I have it going from the bay res > MCP655-b > heatkiller 79x0 > Swiftech Apogee HD > Alphacool UT60 280mm radiator > res. Any idea what is wrong here? Is this too much pressure?


I don't know why you think because you don't see water moving that the pressure is low. If you have your loop completely filled with almost no air the water moving cannot be seen. Just check your temps.


----------



## Hefner

So I'm considering getting a universal GPU block instead of a full block for the purpose of saving money and upgrading in the future. I don't feel like having to buy a new GPU block everytime I get a new GPU since money is tight for me. Is it really okay to cool the vram modules with passive heatsinks such as below?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Damn so I got my loop together and it looks like something is wrong with my MCP655-b. There is absolutely no pressure now. From what I can see all the tubes are filled, but I can't even see the water moving so it must be moving extremely slowly. I don't know how it could've died since I took my loop apart a couple weeks ago. I have it going from the bay res > MCP655-b > heatkiller 79x0 > Swiftech Apogee HD > Alphacool UT60 280mm radiator > res. Any idea what is wrong here? Is this too much pressure?


Check all of your connections because that's likely what the issue is. If this doesn't help then PM me and I'll see what else I can do for you.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Check all of your connections because that's likely what the issue is. If this doesn't help then PM me and I'll see what else I can do for you.


I have my MCP35x at like 2200rpms and I cant see any water move.


----------



## IT Diva

While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.

I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.

I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.

I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.

Thought and feedback is welcomed;

Darlene


----------



## Ovrclck

Does anyone know if Fry's or Micro Center sell a PWM splitter for the MCP35x2?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Check all of your connections because that's likely what the issue is. If this doesn't help then PM me and I'll see what else I can do for you.


Thanks a lot I appreciate that. My connections are definitely correct.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have my MCP35x at like 2200rpms and I cant see any water move.


The only reason I'm worried is because I JUST put the loop together and usually you can see the bubbles moving through the tubing. I see it with the GPU loop that has two MCP655's, but I didn't see it with the CPU loop with the MCP655-b. Maybe I just missed it? I'll fire her up soon and see how the temps are. Still leak testing.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.
> 
> I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.
> 
> I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.
> 
> Thought and feedback is welcomed;
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know this build is purely about overkill, and maybe it is just me. But it really seems far too crowded with too many fittings around the CPU/RAM area on the motherboard. It should be another focal point in the build design. Something that stands out. But with all of those fittings right there, you basically see "busy, busy, busy" around the motherboard. And considering how all other areas in the case are already "busy", you need something to balance that out. And imo, that would mean trying to reduce the amount of fittings on the motherboard. Maybe even do some acrylic bending, rather than using rotaries to make bends.

This is just my







though.


----------



## Anoxy

Ok I'm getting a lot of flak for having my rig configured like this. People are saying I need to flip the top rad to exhaust, but my temps are really good. I don't really want to tear apart my loop for a couple degrees. Thoughts from the experts?


----------



## jeffblute

Anoxy If it would be my rig I would have the top rad pushing out just because it would be less hot air (and dust) blowing into my rig. The difference you would see by flipping it around would be very very small (1- 2 c at most)

I truthfully wouldn't worry about it


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.
> 
> I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.
> 
> I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.
> 
> Thought and feedback is welcomed;
> 
> Darlene






Jesus.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ok I'm getting a lot of flak for having my rig configured like this. People are saying I need to flip the top rad to exhaust, but my temps are really good. I don't really want to tear apart my loop for a couple degrees. Thoughts from the experts?


If there are enough open vents/gaps/spaces for air to escape, you should be ok. If the only place for air to get out IS the rear fan, you would have a big constriction of air flow.

I've set up systems both ways depending solely on how "open" the case is for flow of air.

Just my two cents.


----------



## Anoxy

Alright thanks, I just figured that the coolest air available is outside of the case, so I would want to be pulling that onto my water. Also, it's a big plus that my case stays absolutely dust free.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If there are enough open vents/gaps/spaces for air to escape, you should be ok. If the only place for air to get out IS the rear fan, you would have a big constriction of air flow.
> 
> I've set up systems both ways depending solely on how "open" the case is for flow of air.
> 
> Just my two cents.


Yeah, the case is an Arc Midi R2 so it's extremely open. There is a ton of room for air to escape out of the top since the 360 only takes up about half of the ventilation holes.


----------



## msgclb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Thanks a lot I appreciate that. My connections are definitely correct.
> The only reason I'm worried is because I JUST put the loop together and usually you can see the bubbles moving through the tubing. I see it with the GPU loop that has two MCP655's, but I didn't see it with the CPU loop with the MCP655-b. Maybe I just missed it? I'll fire her up soon and see how the temps are. Still leak testing.


If you're using the *Alphacool Dual Laing D5 - Dual 5.25" Reservoir* listed in your specs then from the image I'm looking at the in and out are clearly label.

If you're worried the pump is not running then you can definitely feel the pump vibrate by touching it.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.
> 
> I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.
> 
> I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.
> 
> Thought and feedback is welcomed;
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's really awesome. But in the pictures everything is so shiny and there's just so much going on that it's hard to tell what is what. What type of camera are you using?

I think once all the fluid is running through the blocks and tubing it will be easier to see whats going on.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.
> 
> I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.
> 
> I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.
> 
> Thought and feedback is welcomed;
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Everytime you post a pic of your build you make me feel less about mine....







That's one gorgeous project you have going there,do you have an estimated time of when you want it finished buy....?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.
> 
> I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.
> 
> I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.
> 
> Thought and feedback is welcomed;
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this build is purely about overkill, and maybe it is just me. But it really seems far too crowded with too many fittings around the CPU/RAM area on the motherboard. It should be another focal point in the build design. Something that stands out. But with all of those fittings right there, you basically see "busy, busy, busy" around the motherboard. And considering how all other areas in the case are already "busy", you need something to balance that out. And imo, that would mean trying to reduce the amount of fittings on the motherboard. Maybe even do some acrylic bending, rather than using rotaries to make bends.
> 
> This is just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> though.
Click to expand...

I kind of liked the way the mobo looks, it fits my "futuristic nuclear power plant" theme pretty well.

That's why I did the GPU - rad modules in a similar fashion.

Each pump-res module is similar as well.

Once I install the primarily horizontal runs between the modules, I think it will tie everything in together nicely, and keep the eye from focusing too narrowly at the mobo area.

The block looks like about 2 to 3 weeks at least, so who knows how many times I can pull stuff out and re-run it . . . .

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Alright thanks, I just figured that the coolest air available is outside of the case, so I would want to be pulling that onto my water. Also, it's a big plus that my case stays absolutely dust free.
> Yeah, the case is an Arc Midi R2 so it's extremely open. There is a ton of room for air to escape out of the top since the 360 only takes up about half of the ventilation holes.


Then you have actually done it the right way around already. I got all 14 radiator fans on my 900D on intake along with 4 other intake case fans and 2 exhaust case fans. I should have enough positive pressure to keep the dust out in this case now. Also, the whole "hot air around the CPU" argument gets invalid if everything is pretty much watercooled there.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I grabbed the last 10 pack of primochill rigid revolver fittings, plus 2 more and a set of nickel plated for my CPU block.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Then you have actually done it the right way around already. I got all 14 radiator fans on my 900D on intake along with 4 other intake case fans and 2 exhaust case fans. I should have enough positive pressure to keep the dust out in this case now. Also, the whole "hot air around the CPU" argument gets invalid if everything is pretty much watercooled there.


Exactly. People are telling me I'll have hot air pockets, but what does that really matter if the important stuff is under water? I should be worrying about cooling the water in my loop, not the space in my case.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed the last 10 pack of primochill rigid revolver fittings, plus 2 more and a set of nickel plated for my CPU block.


The funny thing about those fittings is that they are so similar in action to Swagelok VCO fittings, that I can probably interchange the parts if they were the same size. I can't wait to see what Monsoon brings to the table, but I am more confident in the primochill fittings' mechanism than any other hard tube fittings so far.


----------



## gdubc

I am holding off on my frozencpu order waiting on monsoons. Best I have seen by far. Dont think any other fittings would hold up to the dumbell test! (not that its necessary, but still impressive)


----------



## stickg1

I was actually thinking of running a combination of intake and exhaust on my case, since just about every fan mount will be housing a radiator. I feel like this makes sense...


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was actually thinking of running a combination of intake and exhaust on my case, since just about every fan mount will be housing a radiator. I feel like this makes sense...


Do try it so we can compare temperatures. If you saw my post on the previous page, I've got everything set to intake with a single 140 exhaust in the rear.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.
> 
> I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.
> 
> I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.
> 
> Thought and feedback is welcomed;
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's really awesome. But in the pictures everything is so shiny and there's just so much going on that it's hard to tell what is what. What type of camera are you using?
> 
> I think once all the fluid is running through the blocks and tubing it will be easier to see whats going on.
Click to expand...

I'm using my rather dated Olympus C8080. If I update my camera, then I'll have to update my underwater housing, and that's just not in the budget for a while after this build.










shot from the wheelhouse of a local wreck:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.
> 
> I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.
> 
> I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.
> 
> Thought and feedback is welcomed;
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everytime you post a pic of your build you make me feel less about mine....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's one gorgeous project you have going there,do you have an estimated time of when you want it finished buy....?
Click to expand...

My B'day is right after Valentines day, I expect to have it up and running before then.

I really wanted to get this finished before I'm old enough for Medicaid.

Darlene


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Do try it so we can compare temperatures. If you saw my post on the previous page, I've got everything set to intake with a single 140 exhaust in the rear.


I watercooled this case a few months ago and had just two 240mm rads. One in that front position as intake, and one at the top position also as intake with just a 140mm exhaust. It worked well, I'm hoping I have enough rad space in this upcoming build that the air coming off of the rads that are intakes aren't as hot because of the 720mm of rad space should be pretty overkill for cooling just a 3570K and R9 290.

I really like the overkill builds, mine wont be as extravagant as some, I gave myself a strict $500 budget this time around.

This was my last build...



I really want to get some single sleeved cable extensions but it would cost in upwards of $80 for mobo, GPU, and CPU. I don't think I can afford that.


----------



## skupples

IT's BLACK is finally alive! *My only gripe is this Swiftech Maelstrom res.* . It can barely handle mcp35x2 above 40%. Starts sucking air, & yeah, that's no good. Next upgrade will definitely be a big ol tube res, I really wanted to run the pump faster than this, but owell! Just gives me a reason to spend some more money later on.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm using my rather dated Olympus C8080. If I update my camera, then I'll have to update my underwater housing, and that's just not in the budget for a while after this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shot from the wheelhouse of a local wreck:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My B'day is right after Valentines day, I expect to have it up and running before then.
> 
> I really wanted to get this finished before I'm old enough for Medicaid.
> 
> Darlene


That's really cool Darlene, thanks for sharing.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Exactly. People are telling me I'll have hot air pockets, but what does that really matter if the important stuff is under water? I should be worrying about cooling the water in my loop, not the space in my case.


With five fans blowing in, you're not going to have any hot air pockets. The pressure will help airflow reach every corner of the case.

There's two reasons why people suggest exhaust: first, that they over-estimate how much a radiator warms intake air; second, there seems to be this idea that exhaust fans can magically extract hotter air, while leaving cooler air in the case.

I presume the least amount of air movement is between your GPUs, and I'd bet that making your top rads exhaust wouldn't help that at all.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

With all this talk about having both rads as intake compared to one being intake and the other exhaust....I also plan on using my top 360 rad as intake so i would have that plus a 240 intaking air.would that cause my mobo and ram to run much hotter (meaning would it be hot enough inside the case to drastically affect them) or it shouldnt be a problem....


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Definitely a great choice with the GT's. Especially since it seems it's pretty confirmed they're a dying breed.
> 
> As far as sexy acrylic compressions.....
> Right now there's only a few choices. If by "sexy" you mean more colors than black & silver, then your choices are either Primochill Revolver Fittings or Bitspower C47's/C48's.
> 
> But, if you're not in an insane rush to get the fittins, monsoon's about to release their entire line in acrylic versions. That's what im personally waiting for


Awe man! Would you happen to know where to get a sneak peek of the Monsoon acrylic fittings?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I really want to get some single sleeved cable extensions but it would cost in upwards of $80 for mobo, GPU, and CPU. I don't think I can afford that.


Look at the ones from silverstone. They look great, the just released some that are multicolored, or they have solid colors also. And the prices aren't as bad as most......


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Look at the ones from silverstone. They look great, the just released some that are multicolored, or they have solid colors also. And the prices aren't as bad as most......


I might just buy plain old extensions and then sleeve them myself. I want to use black, grey, and yellow. I themed my build off of my MSI Z77 MPower..

[still on air cooling at the moment, plan to change that soon!!]


----------



## pc-illiterate

oops


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ok I'm getting a lot of flak for having my rig configured like this. People are saying I need to flip the top rad to exhaust, but my temps are really good. I don't really want to tear apart my loop for a couple degrees. Thoughts from the experts?


You have it setup properly IMO.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IT's BLACK is finally alive! *My only gripe is this Swiftech Maelstrom res.* . It can barely handle mcp35x2 above 40%. Starts sucking air, & yeah, that's no good. Next upgrade will definitely be a big ol tube res, I really wanted to run the pump faster than this, but owell! Just gives me a reason to spend some more money later on.


More than likely if you are getting cyclones you should slow the pumps some more. DDCs are not meant to be run at with too low of a pressure drop. The higher the flow rate, the hotter the pumps run. Even to a point where they can burn out. Flow rate over 1GPM has no real impact on temperatures anyway.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Do try it so we can compare temperatures. If you saw my post on the previous page, I've got everything set to intake with a single 140 exhaust in the rear.


I have a similar config


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> With all this talk about having both rads as intake compared to one being intake and the other exhaust....I also plan on using my top 360 rad as intake so i would have that plus a 240 intaking air.would that cause my mobo and ram to run much hotter (meaning would it be hot enough inside the case to drastically affect them) or it shouldnt be a problem....


No problem at all. Once you have it set up, use Asus AISuite sensor (or other software) to check motherboard temps. You'll be pleasantly surprised


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> With all this talk about having both rads as intake compared to one being intake and the other exhaust....I also plan on using my top 360 rad as intake so i would have that plus a 240 intaking air.would that cause my mobo and ram to run much hotter (meaning would it be hot enough inside the case to drastically affect them) or it shouldnt be a problem....


Depending in top rad placement, your memory could actually run COOLER because the air would be directly blowing onto it.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ok I'm getting a lot of flak for having my rig configured like this. People are saying I need to flip the top rad to exhaust, but my temps are really good. I don't really want to tear apart my loop for a couple degrees. Thoughts from the experts?


I too plan to use this config.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> No problem at all. Once you have it set up, use Asus AISuite sensor (or other software) to check motherboard temps. You'll be pleasantly surprised


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Depending in top rad placement, your memory could actually run COOLER because the air would be directly blowing onto it.


Thanks guys,will be changing my config around to intake from the top,hopefully i have enough slack in those tubes so i dont have to drain the loop....Will need all the cooling /cool air i can get,temps at 12 noon is already 34c and is forecast to hit 40c today....


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.
> 
> I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.
> 
> I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.
> 
> Thought and feedback is welcomed;
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning Spoiler


The only thing I can think of is to consider UV reactive blue dye to simulate Cherenkov radiation.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> The only thing I can think of is to consider UV reactive blue dye to simulate Cherenkov radiation.


Hello to another Southern California OCN'er.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> More than likely if you are getting cyclones you should slow the pumps some more. DDCs are not meant to be run at with too low of a pressure drop. The higher the flow rate, the hotter the pumps run. Even to a point where they can burn out. Flow rate over 1GPM has no real impact on temperatures anyway.


I got dat heatsink & fan though!

Would be nice if swiftech rep could give some input. Maybe a sponge in the chamber would help. It came with what I Can only describe as gas tank foam (like that found in a boats gas tank) It doesn't do much because it's buoyant.


----------



## rickyman0319

I need to pick a red led fan for my radiator.

Yate Loon Clear 120mm x 25mm Red LED Fan - Medium Speed
Silverstone Air Penetrator AP121-RL 120 x 120 x 25mm Fan - Red LED (SST-AP121-RL)
BitFenix Spectre LED 120mm PWM Fan - Red (BFF-BLF-P12025R-RP)

Radiator is ST30 (240)and UT60 (360)

which one?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> With five fans blowing in, you're not going to have any hot air pockets. The pressure will help airflow reach every corner of the case.
> 
> There's two reasons why people suggest exhaust: first, that they over-estimate how much a radiator warms intake air; second, there seems to be this idea that exhaust fans can magically extract hotter air, while leaving cooler air in the case.
> 
> I presume the least amount of air movement is between your GPUs, and I'd bet that making your top rads exhaust wouldn't help that at all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You have it setup properly IMO.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I too plan to use this config.


Ah, thanks guys. Feels nice to have some reassurance after several people on reddit rudely called me out for doing it 'completely wrong'


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I need to pick a red led fan for my radiator.
> 
> Yate Loon Clear 120mm x 25mm Red LED Fan - Medium Speed
> Silverstone Air Penetrator AP121-RL 120 x 120 x 25mm Fan - Red LED (SST-AP121-RL)
> BitFenix Spectre LED 120mm PWM Fan - Red (BFF-BLF-P12025R-RP)
> 
> Radiator is ST30 (240)and UT60 (360)
> 
> which one?


The Red AP121's work well, I just wish the frames were black and not silver!!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ah, thanks guys. Feels nice to have some reassurance after several people on reddit rudely called me out for doing it 'completely wrong'


Ah reddit


----------



## rickyman0319

is it quiet enough to move a lot of air? lol


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is it quiet enough to move a lot of air? lol


Definitely quiet enough if they are used as push, push pull is a little louder, but it still doesn't bother me! They are high static pressure, but not high airflow. But they keep my systems nice and chilly. I can't say enough good things about them honestly, I just REALLY don't like that silver frame, so I painted the outside edges of them on my last build.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys I just wanted to update you on my earlier thought that the MCP655-b wasn't pushing a lot of pressure.

Well, I was wrong. My three GPU's are idling at 29c, 27c, and 24c.

Load temps are 38c, 37c, and 37c









Here is a sneak peak picture:


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ah, thanks guys. Feels nice to have some reassurance after several people on reddit rudely called me out for doing it 'completely wrong'


I have recently had guys on facebook calling me inexperienced and flashy (I was called flashy mind you, not the build







) because of a picture of my incomplete buld was posted on the EK page. So I really wouldn't put too much into what people on social media say.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ah, thanks guys. Feels nice to have some reassurance after several people on reddit rudely called me out for doing it 'completely wrong'


Talking about computers on reddit was your first mistake.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys I just wanted to update you on my earlier thought that the MCP655-b wasn't pushing a lot of pressure.
> 
> Well, I was wrong. My three GPU's are idling at 29c, 27c, and 24c.
> 
> Load temps are 38c, 37c, and 37c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a sneak peak picture:


MVX or MIVX?? And what's that mobo tray from? What case?


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys quick question for those w/ TH10 series cases and or even MH10. Wondering if its possible to hook up an XSPC and or Bitspower Res OR res/pump combo like in the photo here WITHOUT screwing in additional holes, and if so how would I go about it? If not what screw size is usually best and how's the vibration/ratling (for the combos?)

Just taking this into consideration for a 2nd res and or combores.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> MVX or MIVX?? And what's that mobo tray from? What case?


That is an ASUS MVE sporting my new EK Monarch Modules for the G.Skill 2133Mhz RAM with an MSI TFIII 7950 with the Heatkiller up top and then another MSI TFIII and a Sapphire Dual-x sporting Alphacool v2 blocks.

Motherboard tray is out of my Mountain Mods Ascension. Love how the tray is removable.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That is an ASUS MVE sporting my new EK Monarch Modules for the G.Skill 2133Mhz RAM with an MSI TFIII 7950 with the Heatkiller up top and then another MSI TFIII and a Sapphire Dual-x sporting Alphacool v2 blocks.
> 
> Motherboard tray is out of my Mountain Mods Ascension. Love how the tray is removable.


I knew it wasn't a CL or Silverstone, just couldn't place it. Thx


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I knew it wasn't a CL or Silverstone, just couldn't place it. Thx


No probs









Here are my temps after a little while mining. These Fujipoly Extreme pads dropped the VRM temps on my Alphacool v2 blocks by 15c


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Talking about computers on reddit was your first mistake.


Yeah, well usually /r/buildapc is fairly knowledgeable....must have posted at the wrong time I guess. Or they just don't know anything about watercooling


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, well usually /r/buildapc is fairly knowledgeable....must have posted at the wrong time I guess. Or they just don't know anything about watercooling


Opinions are very strong with these types of things. I would run dust filters if all of your rads are blowing into the case. I'm running the 2 rads above the basement of my case as exhaust, with 1x typhoon blowing air in from the chassis fan. The case has plenty of open air, so it's not going to starve. Iv'e also put dust filters all over the places where cold air is sucked into the case.


----------



## szeged

hey guys, tiny setback in my plans to use a ut60 in the front of my case for now, should a monsta 360mm in push pull be relatively close to a 480mm ut60 in p/p ? im guessing its roughly the same, just wanted to double check. A ut60 i ordered on dec 2nd....still hasnt arrived...calling usps in the morning first thing and complaining, and ppc-s is out of ut60s until the end of the week


----------



## skupples

Sigh, please tell me the package didn't go through the Rosemead sorting facility...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sigh, please tell me the package didn't go through the Rosemead sorting facility...


the guy shipped it on the 14th...after i paid for it on the 2nd...so thats delay #1, then it hasnt updated since it supposedly departed the usps sort facility in bell gardens california... 20+ days to get a package is stupid at this point i just want my money back.


----------



## skupples

I have lost SO many packages shipping via USPS coming out of California. They must have top notch employee's...







I just envision my package getting stuck in a labyrinth of conveyor belts. If it falls off, it falls into the pit, which they only clean out once a month.


----------



## szeged

its been 20 days today since i paid for the ut60, ready to just get my money back and never buy used parts again.


----------



## Panorama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys I just wanted to update you on my earlier thought that the MCP655-b wasn't pushing a lot of pressure.
> 
> Well, I was wrong. My three GPU's are idling at 29c, 27c, and 24c.
> 
> Load temps are 38c, 37c, and 37c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a sneak peak picture:


I feel like that would look more amazing than it already does with copper piping


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panorama*
> 
> I feel like that would look more amazing than it already does with copper piping


Most definitely! Thanks for the compliment. I do plan on doing copper tubing with this build after a couple more tear downs as I feel like the copper being routed throughout this HUGE Mountain Mods Ascension would look quite amazing!

And I do already have experience bending it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While I have to wait patiently for the R4BE mobo block's release, I figured I'd work on the rest of the loops setups.
> 
> I'm just about to air up the GPU loops and leak test them so I know if I have to re-plan either one if it doesn't hold.
> 
> I'm liking my modular approach here a lot so far.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to my lower GPU bridge to re-route one fitting, but it allows the PSU cover to go in and out with the loop all connected to get to the PSU cables and drain fitting for the lower rad.
> 
> Thought and feedback is welcomed;
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Speechless....


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Opinions are very strong with these types of things. I would run dust filters if all of your rads are blowing into the case. I'm running the 2 rads above the basement of my case as exhaust, with 1x typhoon blowing air in from the chassis fan. The case has plenty of open air, so it's not going to starve. Iv'e also put dust filters all over the places where cold air is sucked into the case.


The Arc Midi has built in foamy filters on all the fan mounts so my case is virtually dust free. The foam probably isn't the greatest for airflow purposes, but my temps are great.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The Arc Midi has built in foamy filters on all the fan mounts so my case is virtually dust free. The foam probably isn't the greatest for airflow purposes, but my temps are great.


I removed the foam on all of mines as my fans breathe better without them


----------



## kingchris

@ IT DIVA.

UNREAL









A Monsta 420 fits a BitFenix Ghost
 

with a little work









Will a Monsta 420 P/P and a ST30 240 P/P be enough cooling for sli set up??


----------



## Panorama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> @ IT DIVA.
> 
> UNREAL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will a Monsta 420 P/P and a ST30 240 P/P be enough cooling for sli set up??


Yea should do easily.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> @ IT DIVA.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> UNREAL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A Monsta 420 fits a BitFenix Ghost
> 
> 
> with a little work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will a Monsta 420 P/P and a ST30 240 P/P be enough cooling for sli set up??


most definitely. Was cooling 2x heavily OC'd titans & a 5.0 3570k with a 30mm thick 360 & a 240 monsta for a long time. The rads were actually pumping hot air!!!!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey guys, tiny setback in my plans to use a ut60 in the front of my case for now, should a monsta 360mm in push pull be relatively close to a 480mm ut60 in p/p ? im guessing its roughly the same, just wanted to double check. A ut60 i ordered on dec 2nd....still hasnt arrived...calling usps in the morning first thing and complaining, and ppc-s is out of ut60s until the end of the week


A 480 UT60 will probably be able to disperse 20% more heat than a Monsta 360.


----------



## skupples

there has to be tests on this stuff.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> @ IT DIVA.
> 
> UNREAL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A Monsta 420 fits a BitFenix Ghost
> 
> 
> with a little work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will a Monsta 420 P/P and a ST30 240 P/P be enough cooling for sli set up??


One monsta 480 handled my quad 580s and SB cpu


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One monsta 480 handled my quad 580s and SB cpu


....and i was planning to build a case for 4 480 monstas , and smaller than a 900D











first one is the 900D , second one is the 800D ...

what u guys think . is that too many rads ?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> ....and i was planning to build a case for 4 480 monstas , and smaller than a 900D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> first one is the 900D , second one is the 800D ...
> 
> what u guys think . is that too many rads ?


I don't believe it is. But I'm biased, I have had 7 rads in my STH10 at one point, but now it's only 5.


----------



## LunaP

Guys !! Heads up 8% d/c on PPC's right now expires on teh 24th!!

HOLIDAY13-8


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Guys !! Heads up 8% d/c on PPC's right now expires on teh 24th!!
> 
> HOLIDAY13-8


Good times.


----------



## LunaP

This is the 3rd attempt @ fans, hoping this goes through this time, else Imma just get CM's


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ok I'm getting a lot of flak for having my rig configured like this. People are saying I need to flip the top rad to exhaust, but my temps are really good. I don't really want to tear apart my loop for a couple degrees. Thoughts from the experts?


For me that is the perfect config.

Recycling air is a no no,you want the coolest air available to maximize the water/air heat transfer.

Also...

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure.mp4


----------



## Ithanul

Can't wait for my Monsoon kit to get here. Plus, all the rest of the water cooling stuff I order. Friday seems so far away. Though the delivery guys are going to be busy at my house. I wonder what the neighbors are thinking seeing all these boxes coming to my house.


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I would kill a man for their copper MVE block. Can't find one anywhere and I'm not adding nickel to my loop with EKs version of the MVE block. Give me your MVE MIPS people!!


just bought the MIPS MVE block on ppcs a couple weeks ago, expensive...


----------



## Juthos

Wb for 7990
 


and for 780 ti:


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> just bought the MIPS MVE block on ppcs a couple weeks ago, expensive...


where.....

WHERE?????!!!

Ill pay anything. Need a liver?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

So i flipped my fans on my top rad from exhaust to intake,only thing is that before i had them pushing and now i have them pulling....They are beneath the rad instead of above the rad intaking air,will it make a difference pulling air from beneath the rad as opposed to pulling from the top of the rad or either config is good....


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> where.....
> 
> WHERE?????!!!
> 
> Ill pay anything. Need a liver?


Nope, I don't drink!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38266

I've never seen a pure copper (no acetyl at all) version


----------



## Durvelle27

Guys which fans a better

XSPC 120mm 2000RPM Fan

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33486:720b84b46a8087e21182314a4f744ce7

or

Koolance Fan, 120x25mm (FAN-12025HBK)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27664


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So i flipped my fans on my top rad from exhaust to intake,only thing is that before i had them pushing and now i have them pulling,they are beneath the rad instead of above the rad intaking air,will it make a difference pulling air from beneath the rad as opposed to pulling from the top of the rad or either config is good....


DEING! Nice run-on sentence. haha. If I read your post right, I like to always have my fans on push mode. It seems to provide better noise and cooling. For some reason pull fans are noisy...


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

For me push was working ok and then summer hit,today for example was 36c and was forecast to be 40....We had a convo about rads being used as intake compared to exhaust,and the vote went to intake of air for better temps....Also according to what B-neg said,and i quote "Recycling air is a no no,you want the coolest air available to maximize the water/air heat transfer''....So now i have both my 360 and 240 rads as intake and just a 140mm fan exhausting....So basically i'm just going by what the pro's say,i'm still new at watercooling so i'm trying to soak up all the knowledge i can get from the vets....


----------



## stickg1

For the people that use air pressure to leak test. What fitting do you use to hook your air pump up to and what type of pressure gauge do you use?


----------



## siffonen

Should i add 4 more fans to my ut60 480 to push-pull? Now the airflow through the radiator feels weak, and i'm wondering that does push-pull gain significant cooling performance vs push only?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Should i add 4 more fans to my ut60 480 to push-pull? Now the airflow through the radiator feels weak, and i'm wondering that does push-pull gain significant cooling performance vs push only?


From another topic about that ...

Here's something I posted on a different topic a while back with some of Martin's findings regarding push-pull vs only push or pull ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Martin'sLiquidLabs testing has shown pretty consistently that "_About the only generalization is that push/pull is still your best bet if cost is not a problem and that will hold true for *all* radiators_". On test after test you find Martin saying things like "_there is a pressure benefit to doubling up on fans and this translates to about a 20-30% performance gain_" & "_I would always recommend a push/pull configuration for two fans_".
> 
> The same holds true for slim low density fin rads where push-pull does have the least affect. For example, Martin found there was a 17% benefit to running push-pull on a swiftech mcr120.
> 
> Bottom line: Push-pull, if you have room for it, will ALWAYS net you fairly substantial benefits, regardless of what rad you are running.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> Nope, I don't drink!
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38266
> 
> I've never seen a pure copper (no acetyl at all) version


Yep thats the one I want. Acetal + Coppa!

Sold out









I swear I checked a month ago and it was sold out. They musta found one and sold it to you! Lucky!


----------



## szeged

day 21, radiator still hasnt arrived from california...this guy is pushing my patience, time for a refund.


----------



## Maximus Knight

sorry to interject here, is it correct i need 8 heatsinks for this?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> sorry to interject here, is it correct i need 8 heatsinks for this?


8 heatsinks for the vram yes, as long as they fit. They're not absolutely needed for vram. You can get by with air blowing on dem


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> For the people that use air pressure to leak test. What fitting do you use to hook your air pump up to and what type of pressure gauge do you use?


This is a great question and I am very interested in the answer.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> For the people that use air pressure to leak test. What fitting do you use to hook your air pump up to and what type of pressure gauge do you use?


I use a 1/4" male to male and the use a universal bayonet fitting hooked up to a gauge and stop ****.
No more than 7-10 PSI should be used for testing.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> day 21, radiator still hasnt arrived from california...this guy is pushing my patience, time for a refund.


I don't blame you. I'd be as mad as a fire ant right about now.







Sound's like you need an order from PPC already. Shouldn't take long to get if from them being that you live fairly close to them. Well I don't know about the whole holiday schedule.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I don't blame you. I'd be as mad as a fire ant right about now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sound's like you need an order from PPC already. Shouldn't take long to get if from them. Well I don't know about the whole holiday schedule.


ordered that particular rad from a member here on OCN, wont give out names or anything. but it is kind of ridiculous that someone gives you money on the 2nd, the rad doesnt get shipped till the 14th, and then it doesnt get delivered until who knows when.

PPCs usually has my order to me early the next day since im a 4 hour drive away.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use a 1/4" male to male and the use a universal bayonet fitting hooked up to a gauge and stop ****.
> No more than 7-10 PSI should be used for testing.


Do you use this method primarily for your radiators?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ordered that particular rad from a member here on OCN, wont give out names or anything. but it is kind of ridiculous that someone gives you money on the 2nd, the rad doesnt get shipped till the 14th, and then it doesnt get delivered until who knows when.
> 
> PPCs usually has my order to me early the next day since im a 4 hour drive away.


Man what's up with that? Yeah I live pretty close to PPC, but not that close. lol I'm waiting on some goodies to come in myself. The holidays will probably slow things down I'm sure.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Man what's up with that? Yeah I live pretty close to PPC, but not that close. lol I'm waiting on some goodies to come in myself. The holidays will probably slow things down I'm sure.


atleast you have microcenter up there







wish i went more often when i lived in atlanta lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use a 1/4" male to male and the use a universal bayonet fitting hooked up to a gauge and stop ****.
> No more than 7-10 PSI should be used for testing.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use this method primarily for your radiators?
Click to expand...

I test the whole loop in situ with this method.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> Guys which fans a better
> 
> XSPC 120mm 2000RPM Fan
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33486:720b84b46a8087e21182314a4f744ce7
> 
> or
> 
> Koolance Fan, 120x25mm (FAN-12025HBK)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27664


^^^^^^


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use a 1/4" male to male and the use a universal bayonet fitting hooked up to a gauge and stop ****.
> No more than 7-10 PSI should be used for testing.


Sorry, but is there any way you could post a link to these types of items? Pressure testing a loop sounds like a better method than the ol' fill and observe for leaks method, but I have no idea what a "universal bayonet fitting" or a "gauge and stop ****" is and googling either proved to be totally unhelpful.

I would really like to see a guide posted on how to do this with examples of every item needed.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use a 1/4" male to male and the use a universal bayonet fitting hooked up to a gauge and stop ****.
> No more than 7-10 PSI should be used for testing.


Cool, thank you. My plumber is coming by the jobsite later. I'm gonna see if he'll let me borrow those. Although his gauges are usually 0-300psi so getting an accurate reading on 7psi could be difficult. I'll pop in the plumber supply store on my way home tonight, or after the holidays.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use a 1/4" male to male and the use a universal bayonet fitting hooked up to a gauge and stop ****.
> No more than 7-10 PSI should be used for testing.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, but is there any way you could post a link to these types of items? Pressure testing a loop sounds like a better method than the ol' fill and observe for leaks method, but I have no idea what a "universal bayonet fitting" or a "gauge and stop ****" is and googling either proved to be totally unhelpful.
> 
> I would really like to see a guide posted on how to do this with examples of every item needed.
Click to expand...

This method is compressor based..

I can post a method using a foot pump?

Schrader valve to 1/4 BSPP



Connect that to the loop then connect that to a gauge.



then use a second schrader valve to connect a foot pump to the gauge with a stop valve inbetween..



Pump it up then shut the valve to stop any back flow of air.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> 8 heatsinks for the vram yes, as long as they fit. They're not absolutely needed for vram. You can get by with air blowing on dem


thank you! anywhere else i should have a heatsink module on?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> thank you! anywhere else i should have a heatsink module on?


Omg vrm for sure! Those need it more than anything else. They're the silver flat things between the caps on the right side of the card.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

What's up with the parts arriving soon post? Should make a seperate post "Parts Arriving soon post" LOL.. Anyway I'd just recommend that you post pics once arrived.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This method is compressor based..
> 
> I can post a method using a foot pump?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Schrader valve to 1/4 BSPP
> 
> 
> 
> Connect that to the loop then connect that to a gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> then use a second schrader valve to connect a foot pump to the gauge with a stop valve inbetween..
> 
> 
> 
> Pump it up then shut the valve to stop any back flow of air
> 
> 
> .


Well I have a couple compressors, an electric pancake and a gas powered twin cylinder, and several tire chucks for them, but no foot pump. lol.

Thanks for that. I think with your help I might have it figured out.

Looking at what you posted, it looks like I might be able to just add a couple of those G1/4 schrader valves (that's looking to be a bit tough to get on this side of the pond) to any available ports in my loop, use one valve to attach a fuel injection tester gauge like I found (below) that comes with fittings to screw to a schrader valve, and use a tire chuck on the compressor on the other valve to pressurize it to 7-10 PSI, and just let it sit a while to see if it dropped any.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Omg vrm for sure! Those need it more than anything else. They're the silver flat things between the caps on the right side of the card.


those tiny things that run beside the power phases?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This method is compressor based..
> 
> I can post a method using a foot pump?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Schrader valve to 1/4 BSPP
> 
> 
> 
> Connect that to the loop then connect that to a gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> then use a second schrader valve to connect a foot pump to the gauge with a stop valve inbetween..
> 
> 
> 
> Pump it up then shut the valve to stop any back flow of air
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Well I have a couple compressors, an electric pancake and a gas powered twin cylinder, and several tire chucks for them, but no foot pump. lol.
> 
> Looking at what you posted, it looks like I might be able to just add a couple of those G1/4 schrader valves (that's looking to be a bit tough to get on this side of the pond) to any available ports in my loop, use one valve to attach a fuel injection tester gauge like I found (below) that comes with fittings to screw to a schrader valve, and use a tire chuck on the compressor on the other valve pressurize it to 7-10 PSI, and let it sit a while to see if it dropped any.
Click to expand...

If you have a compressor then do it all with 1/4" fittings and get rid of the schradar valves.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seen a lot of PCB warps,wont be going that route...
> Yup. vice and hammer FTW.


How did your delid go? Any temps dropped. Pics!

The EK Kit makes it a lot easier to do direct die. What I did notice is that I cant tighten the bolts all the way as warping will happen regardless, I just tighten until everything is snug. The results are fantastic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> For Intel it wouldn't make a difference if the CPU was delidded as it already had no warranty. Selling delidded CPUs is pretty easy though. People who are afraid to do the mod like to grab them up.


I have sold a few delid 4770K's on eBay without much of an issue, you will get a ton of questions from people about dual channel still working and SLI but otherwise they move really well. There are a lot of people that want a delid but are afraid to do it themselves. Or people that have botched their delids and want it done by someone with a steadier hand.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you have a compressor then do it all with 1/4" fittings and get rid of the schradar valves.


Now you lost me. I could definitely attach the gauge without using the schrader valve, but I don't know how I'd do the same with the compressor? Seems like the schrader valve would be the easiest way to pressurize the loop using a tire chuck. Are we even talking about the same kind of compressor? Here's the compressors I have & would be using the lil' 3 gal pancake on the left ..



Anywho, here in the states 1/4 BSPP fittings can be hard to come by. They don't have much of anything with that thread at the local hardware store or even for sale from a US supplier online. Looks like I might have to have whatever I get shipped overseas. A couple of those 1/4 BSPP schrader valves ought to be all I'd need to make me a setup to check any loop pretty easily.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I test the whole loop in situ with this method.


Okay cool. I do leakage tests on trains everyday. Much more psi though lol. We have a specific tool with a gauge and a setting to stop air from going in or out of the train consist. I suppose it's pretty much the same principal. How long do you run the test for? I'm assuming you watch the gauge for a certain amount of time to make sure the pressure doesn't drop?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I test the whole loop in situ with this method.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay cool. I do leakage tests on trains everyday. Much more psi though lol. We have a specific tool with a gauge and a setting to stop air from going in or out of the train consist. I suppose it's pretty much the same principal. How long do you run the test for? I'm assuming you watch the gauge for a certain amount of time to make sure the pressure doesn't drop?
Click to expand...

For air,I recommend 24hrs...purely as the gauge is not a finely calibrated gauge and i need the time to make sure its leak free. I tend to pump it up,use a strip of tape to mark the final needle position and leave it for 24 hrs. The tape makes it easier to see needle movement.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you have a compressor then do it all with 1/4" fittings and get rid of the schradar valves.
> 
> 
> 
> Now you lost me. I could definitely attach the gauge without using the schrader valve, but I don't know how I'd do the same with the compressor? Seems like the schrader valve would be the easiest way to pressurize the loop using a tire chuck. Are we even talking about the same kind of compressor? Here's the compressors I have & would be using the lil' 3 gal pancake on the left ..
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, here in the states 1/4 BSPP fittings can be hard to come by. They don't have much of anything with that thread at the local hardware store or even for sale from a US supplier online. Looks like I might have to have whatever I get shipped overseas. A couple of those 1/4 BSPP schrader valves ought to be all I'd need to make me a setup to check any loop pretty easily.
Click to expand...

Your airhoses should be 1/4"...at least I know mine are.


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering can 655 pump dual bay reservoir and single bay reservoir at the same time or not? or I need to buy another pump for it?


----------



## lowfat

Installed one of the new DIYINHK PWM PCBs on a DDC3.2 and a DDC1-T this weekend. They suck.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-37-2.jpg.html


----------



## MrStrat007

Quick question for all you water cooling gurus, which CPU block would you recommend:
Koolance 380i
MIPS Iceforce HF
EK supremacy clean csq full nickel

Trying to match the silver backplates on my 7970's. Thanks guys!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Installed one of the new DIYINHK PWM PCBs on a DDC3.2 and a DDC1-T this weekend. They suck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-37-2.jpg.html


I have done a few too....and they do indeed suck.

I get labelled a D5 fanboi...and for good reason,DDC's are not good...being unable to run a 12v pump at 12v for any period of time is purest design fail.
I get stick from DDC owners all the time that are so hung up on the max pressure their little pumps can provide...not realizing that the pumps also have a PQ curve and that their pump cant run at 12v for too long unless its a 10w DDC. The 10w are bombproof and well worth the money btw,they have no problem with 12v all day long.

The D5,however,can take 12v and beyond,up to 24v with zero issues,no overheating and no reliability issues,the max numbers may not be in their favor but max numbers dont mean a thing. Reliability is everything.


----------



## lowfat

I love the normal DDC3.2-PWMs. Still my choice of pump. The DIYINHK Toshiba ones are good as well but they don't have PWM. @ 12V they are more powerful than a D5-S @ 24V. Although loud as hell and throwing a ton of heat.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Quick question for all you water cooling gurus, which CPU block would you recommend:
> Koolance 380i
> MIPS Iceforce HF
> EK supremacy clean csq full nickel
> 
> Trying to match the silver backplates on my 7970's. Thanks guys!


Well I'd probably go with the koolance it's the best performing and I think it'll match the silver well


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For air,I recommend 24hrs...purely as the gauge is not a finely calibrated gauge and i need the time to make sure its leak free. I tend to pump it up,use a strip of tape to mark the final needle position and leave it for 24 hrs. The tape makes it easier to see needle movement.


Very interesting method you use. I'm not sure I'll be doing this since I don't have all of the equipment to do so, but thanks for the tips! It's good to know of different ways to do a leak test nonetheless. I'll be doing a leak test some time this week between work and holiday.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [...] Your airhoses should be 1/4"...at least I know mine are.


All my air compressor stuff is 1/4" NPT threaded. I didn't think NPT was compatible with 1/4" BSP (G1/4) thread. IIRC NPT is tapered (which is why it doesn't need an o-ring) & BSP is not & also a slightly different thread pitch.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So i flipped my fans on my top rad from exhaust to intake,only thing is that before i had them pushing and now i have them pulling....They are beneath the rad instead of above the rad intaking air,will it make a difference pulling air from beneath the rad as opposed to pushing from the top of the rad or either config is good....


Anyone....?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For air,I recommend 24hrs...purely as the gauge is not a finely calibrated gauge and i need the time to make sure its leak free. I tend to pump it up,use a strip of tape to mark the final needle position and leave it for 24 hrs. The tape makes it easier to see needle movement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very interesting method you use. I'm not sure I'll be doing this since I don't have all of the equipment to do so, but thanks for the tips! It's good to know of different ways to do a leak test nonetheless. I'll be doing a leak test some time this week between work and holiday.
Click to expand...

Its very handy for SFF builds with buried components.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Quick question for all you water cooling gurus, which CPU block would you recommend:
> Koolance 380i
> MIPS Iceforce HF
> EK supremacy clean csq full nickel
> 
> Trying to match the silver backplates on my 7970's. Thanks guys!


i dont know how the mips performs and dont feel the google fever coming on.
the ek supremacy is the best of those 3 for haswell, according to this review/testing.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup&p=5182222&viewfull=1#post5182222


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its very handy for SFF builds with buried components.


I would imagine so. Lol


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Anyone....?


You are fine, if anything it makes cleaning the rads easier now.


----------



## rickyman0319

does EX360 = RX360 + RS360?

which one is better EX360 or ST30 or XT45 on slow rpm speed?


----------



## VSG

Go with XT45


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have done a few too....and they do indeed suck.
> 
> *I get labelled a D5 fanboi...and for good reason,DDC's are not good...being unable to run a 12v pump at 12v for any period of time is purest design fail.*
> I get stick from DDC owners all the time that are so hung up on the max pressure their little pumps can provide...not realizing that the pumps also have a PQ curve and that their pump cant run at 12v for too long unless its a 10w DDC. The 10w are bombproof and well worth the money btw,they have no problem with 12v all day long.
> 
> The D5,however,can take 12v and beyond,up to 24v with zero issues,no overheating and no reliability issues,the max numbers may not be in their favor but max numbers dont mean a thing. Reliability is everything.


Wow I was JUST about to post asking if you guys recommended D5 or PWM for my bay res, but that pretty much answers it if it's coming from B









I'm grabbing the Monsoon series II Bay res, and need to install a pump, would this suffice?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=595

And also!! ORDER 1 of ??? came!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have done a few too....and they do indeed suck.
> 
> *I get labelled a D5 fanboi...and for good reason,DDC's are not good...being unable to run a 12v pump at 12v for any period of time is purest design fail.*
> I get stick from DDC owners all the time that are so hung up on the max pressure their little pumps can provide...not realizing that the pumps also have a PQ curve and that their pump cant run at 12v for too long unless its a 10w DDC. The 10w are bombproof and well worth the money btw,they have no problem with 12v all day long.
> 
> The D5,however,can take 12v and beyond,up to 24v with zero issues,no overheating and no reliability issues,the max numbers may not be in their favor but max numbers dont mean a thing. Reliability is everything.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow I was JUST about to post asking if you guys recommended D5 or PWM for my bay res, but that pretty much answers it if it's coming from B
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm grabbing the Monsoon series II Bay res, and need to install a pump, would this suffice?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=595
> 
> And also!! ORDER 1 of ??? came!!
Click to expand...

Its my personal view and its not universally shared either,PWM DDC's that are turned down are just fine....it irritates me that you cant maximize the pump performance 100%


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my personal view and its not universally shared either,PWM DDC's that are turned down are just fine....it irritates me that you cant maximize the pump performance 100%


CRAP LOL my bad I meant this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6190/ex-pmp-54/Swiftech_MCP655_12v_Water_Pump_w_Speed_Control_and_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=594

I posted the PWM on accident XD the above is the D5 variant. Though curious if I'd have to manually adjust the speed inside the case on the bay res or if I could still do it via controller?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> CRAP LOL my bad I meant this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6190/ex-pmp-54/Swiftech_MCP655_12v_Water_Pump_w_Speed_Control_and_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=594
> 
> I posted the PWM on accident XD the above is the D5 variant. Though curious if I'd have to manually adjust the speed inside the case on the bay res or if I could still do it via controller?


That pump only has the manual control switch. You won't be able to control it or set the speed any other way. The only connector is a Molex to your power supply.


----------



## skupples

Think I figured out how to reduce the maelstroms vortexing issues. 100% completely drown it in water, forcing ALL DA AIR out.









as to DDC... I would need a MASSIVE res to run my mcp35x2 @ full speed. The fan/heatsink combo has reduced it's temps a great deal.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That pump only has the manual control switch. You won't be able to control it or set the speed any other way. The only connector is a Molex to your power supply.


Which of the 2 would you guys recommend for the bay res then? Should I just go w/ the PWM? I'll be doing a res+ pump combo later possibly so I have a backup but for now I just love the look of these.

I have an hour before I have to get the order in, so just wanted to get some feedback, as this is the last part for my build required. Appreciate it.

I'm just looking for something that does the job and as quietly as possible.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my personal view and its not universally shared either,PWM DDC's that are turned down are just fine....*it irritates me that you cant maximize the pump performance 100%*


My feelings on the PMP-500 exactly. The only way to use it 100% is to hide it in a box to insulate from sound.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Which of the 2 would you guys recommend for the bay res then? Should I just go w/ the PWM? I'll be doing a res+ pump combo later possibly so I have a backup but for now I just love the look of these.
> 
> I have an hour before I have to get the order in, so just wanted to get some feedback, as this is the last part for my build required. Appreciate it.
> 
> I'm just looking for something that does the job and as quietly as possible.


PWM pumps + Aquaero6 = win.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my personal view and its not universally shared either,PWM DDC's that are turned down are just fine....it irritates me that you cant maximize the pump performance 100%
> 
> 
> 
> CRAP LOL my bad I meant this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6190/ex-pmp-54/Swiftech_MCP655_12v_Water_Pump_w_Speed_Control_and_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=594
> 
> I posted the PWM on accident XD the above is the D5 variant. Though curious if I'd have to manually adjust the speed inside the case on the bay res or if I could still do it via controller?
Click to expand...

The D5 Vario has a small dial on the back to change the pump speed,just hook it up to a molex,set the speed and away you go.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Which of the 2 would you guys recommend for the bay res then? Should I just go w/ the PWM? I'll be doing a res+ pump combo later possibly so I have a backup but for now I just love the look of these.
> 
> I have an hour before I have to get the order in, so just wanted to get some feedback, as this is the last part for my build required. Appreciate it.
> 
> I'm just looking for something that does the job and as quietly as possible.


If you want ease of control then I would go with the PWM version along with motherboard control or a PWM fan controller. I've got an MCP655-B and I can't hear it at all over the fans in my case. It's up to you though on what you consider to be too noisy.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> PWM pumps + Aquaero6 = win.


Yeah I'll be getting the Aquaero6, in fact it arrives tomorrow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you want ease of control then I would go with the PWM version along with motherboard control or a PWM fan controller. I've got an MCP655-B and I can't hear it at all over the fans in my case. It's up to you though on what you consider to be too noisy.


what are the settings you guys keep yours at that are still effective yet sound dampening or would it pretty much be a tie between the 2 so wouldn't matter? These are the options, and the 655-B is one of them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its my personal view and its not universally shared either,PWM DDC's that are turned down are just fine....*it irritates me that you cant maximize the pump performance 100%*
> 
> 
> 
> My feelings on the PMP-500 exactly. The only way to use it 100% is to hide it in a box to insulate from sound.
Click to expand...

I had a similar opinion when i had one very briefly...very powerful but crazy loud...

I just set the pump at the loudest speed I find acceptable and just leave it,with a D5 it can go nearly flat out before i hear it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah I'll be getting the Aquaero6, in fact it arrives tomorrow.
> what are the settings you guys keep yours at that are still effective yet sound dampening or would it pretty much be a tie between the 2 so wouldn't matter? These are the options, and the 655-B is one of them.


The MCP655-B is set to about 4200 RPM and can't be adjusted. At this speed though it performs about the same as the non-B version set to about setting 4.


----------



## pc-illiterate

lunap. buy your d5 from ppc

without cover
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=35560
with cover
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=28303
both $77 plus shipping

with pwm
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=36120
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=37680
both $95 plus shipping

you wont need a cover if youre going with a bay res or aftermarket pump top. and in a bay res like that, you can easily get to the speed dial.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quick opinion on one of these kits please?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21642/ex-wat-276/XSPC_Raystorm_AX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Photon_and_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18965/ex-wat-250/EK_L360_Complete_Triple_120mm_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_EK-KIT_L360.html?tl=g30c321s1367#blank

Thinking the Raystorm kit (love that res, and I know it'll fit where I want in my Air 540). Just curious as to whether or not the tubing is plasticizer free. If not, I'd be buying Primochill LRT Advanced, and also which fittings are with the XSPC kit? It looks like the black chrome (which is fine, I would just need a couple more fittings and want to be sure I get the matching ones).


----------



## VSG

The tubing (XSPC High Flex) is specified upto 60 C for some random reason but it should do just fine. If you are worried, just get some Primochill advanced LRT by the foot. The kit itself is pretty great for the price.


----------



## rickyman0319

http://s40.photobucket.com/user/compwarez/media/20131223_1836061_zps1af247e1.jpg.html

http://s40.photobucket.com/user/compwarez/media/20131223_1836191_zps3958e6c4.jpg.html

can you guys tell me what is that suff on the pump and inside the resevior? and how can I fix it?


----------



## Roxycon

Gunk from hoses most probably, to get it completely away go rigid tubing but a good flush andcleanup on the loop with new hoses will also do the trick although it can build up again.. If it is the bubbles youre talking about i tooo want a permanent solution to that.. Although a little fun to see water extracted from the colouring of the pastel white coolant inside my res


----------



## rickyman0319

does this work or not?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The tubing (XSPC High Flex) is specified upto 60 C for some random reason but it should do just fine. If you are worried, just get some Primochill advanced LRT by the foot. The kit itself is pretty great for the price.


I've had issues with the flex tubbing leeching plasticizer to my loop but otherwise it's a good kit. I would just get primochill tubing instead. The fittings are 7/16id 5/8 od black chrome.


----------



## subsven

Doing a rebuild of my rig. Got a few parts under the tree/in the mail waiting to go in. :-/ Just dropped the AX1200i in there today. Rest of the build is a Maximus V Formula, i7 3770k, etc, etc. Sorry for the quality of the pics, cell phone photos always make everything look dirty.



I know the rads in the roof don't match up. I've pieced this build together over the last 12 months and I tend to use things as long I can.

















Got two of these bad boys (EVGA 780 Ti SC) just waiting to get wet, as soon as FCPU pushes my order out.











Any day now...



Been piecing this build together bit by bit, have gone through two cases, two motherboards, kept adding rads, new video cards, etc. I know it looks a bit ghetto, but I'll be damned if my 3770k doesn't run at 4.7 @ 70-80c and the two GTX 670 FTW's I used to have would max out at 30-35c @ 1215 Mhz.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s40.photobucket.com/user/compwarez/media/20131223_1836061_zps1af247e1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s40.photobucket.com/user/compwarez/media/20131223_1836191_zps3958e6c4.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> can you guys tell me what is that suff on the pump and inside the resevior? and how can I fix it?


Hard to see in those pics. but plasticizer would be my 1st guess too. What kind of tubing are you running? What fluid additives, if any?


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> All my air compressor stuff is 1/4" NPT threaded. I didn't think NPT was compatible with 1/4" BSP (G1/4) thread. IIRC NPT is tapered (which is why it doesn't need an o-ring) & BSP is not & also a slightly different thread pitch.


1/4" NPT & BSP are that close it usually doesn't matter. A bit of thread tape or liquid sealant is all it normally needs.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Been piecing this build together bit by bit, have gone through two cases, two motherboards, kept adding rads, new video cards, etc. I know it looks a bit ghetto, but I'll be damned if my 3770k doesn't run at 4.7 @ 70-80c and the two GTX 670 FTW's I used to have would max out at 30-35c @ 1215 Mhz.


The GPU temps looked nice, but that CPU temp is higher than I like to see at that speed, what voltage did you need to run to get to 4.7GHz??


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hard to see in those pics. but plasticizer would be my 1st guess too. What kind of tubing are you running? What fluid additives, if any?


Past I am using Lowes' tubing from stores. Now I am using popular tubing: advanced LRT tube. I only use Distilled water.

shall I still using or just throw it away?


----------



## RickRockerr

Little advice for all of you who are using EK -Supremacy PreciseMount kit. DON'T SCREW THE SCREWS ALL WAY DOWN! Today I changed my CLP which wasn't hardened at all after 6 months.
And after I putted my block back I got mem error at boot (DIMM A 1 and 2 wasn't working at all). After 6 hours off trying everything I got it working and it seems that EK-Supremacy PreciseMount kit has bend my mobo.
Now I'm running same setup expect screws of block are now on half way and everything is running normally.


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The GPU temps looked nice, but that CPU temp is higher than I like to see at that speed, what voltage did you need to run to get to 4.7GHz??


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> 1/4" NPT & BSP are that close it usually doesn't matter. A bit of thread tape or liquid sealant is all it normally needs.


Good to know. I have thread taps for both and besides the obvious NPT is tapered and BSP has parallel threads, looking at them it says BSP is 19 threads per inch and NPT is 18 tpi. The difference in thread pitch still has me a little worried to screw anything 1/4 NPT into a 1/4 BSP (G 1/4) port. I'll find a spare G1/4 fitting I'm not too worried about messing up and try screwing one of my 1/4 NPT air fittings into it just to see what happens. lol


----------



## skupples

IS your rad leaking or something? That stuff on the side panel looks like corrosion... Also, swiftech mcp35x2 for that = massive overkill, nice choice.


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> IS your rad leaking or something? That stuff on the side panel looks like corrosion... Also, swiftech mcp35x2 for that = massive overkill, nice choice.


Was this meant for me or someone else? If so, I'm not seeing the corrosion you're talking about...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> IS your rad leaking or something? That stuff on the side panel looks like corrosion... Also, swiftech mcp35x2 for that = massive overkill, nice choice.


Its just reflection off the mesh filter.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> lunap. buy your d5 from ppc
> 
> without cover
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=35560
> with cover
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=28303
> both $77 plus shipping
> 
> with pwm
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=36120
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=37680
> both $95 plus shipping
> 
> you wont need a cover if youre going with a bay res or aftermarket pump top. and in a bay res like that, you can easily get to the speed dial.


Was on the phone shortly after talking to Mark from FCPU, PPC is out of the Bay res color I want.



Also not shown in the list (added @ the last minute ) is the XSPC photon res 270mm


----------



## Pimphare

Well I'm a little bit unsettled at the moment. I just realized that I bought the wrong D5 pump. I have the Swiftech MCP655-B which doesn't have the speed control option. The "B" wasn't obviously placed on PPC's website. Can't be mad at them though for my stupid mistake.







I'm assuming that I can use a fan controller or something of the sort as an alternative correct?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Well I'm a little bit unsettled at the moment. I just realized that I bought the wrong D5 pump. I have the Swiftech MCP655-B which doesn't have the speed control option. The "B" wasn't obviously placed on PPC's website. Can't be mad at them though for my stupid mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming that I can use a fan controller or something of the sort as an alternative correct?


Shouldn't run too fast, I used one of those pumps for a while. It did move water pretty hard until I added my Z77 MVF's stock VRM block to the loop. It had enough restriction in it to slow the flow down to perfection.


----------



## rickyman0319

What is the best way to put QDC?

1. radiator - QDC - tube -compression -waterblock

2. radiator - barb/compression - tube - QDC - tube - compression -waterblock

3. radiator - barb/compression - tube - QDC - waterblock


----------



## VSG

Directly attach the QDCs to the GPU (s) if possible- the less fittings in between, the better. So option 3 would be my way of doing it, just make sure to have enough slack in the tubing to remove the male QDC out.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> What is the best way to put QDC?
> 
> 1. radiator - QDC - tube -compression -waterblock
> 
> 2. radiator - barb/compression - tube - QDC - tube - compression -waterblock
> 
> 3. radiator - barb/compression - tube - QDC - waterblock


One or three will look a million times better. Always have the QDC at a block/radiator/bulkhead/etc IMO.


----------



## Terminus14

Quick question for you gents. Ordering my fittings and tubing tomorrow. They're the last bits I need to finally take my rig off of air.

I'm under the impression that you have to have rotary fittings to make a 90 degree turn? Is this true? Or are there just regular 90 degree fittings that I can use? I'm not liking the idea of having to pay more than double the price of my other fittings just so I can make a few right angle turns.

In the event that I don't like the price of the fittings required to make those turns, about how sharp of turns can 1/2"ID 3/4"OD Advanced LRT tubing make?


----------



## VSG

You can use non-rotary angle fittings but you run the risk of the opening not pointing where you want. That's the whole point of rotary angle adapters. The 1/2" x 3/4" does not like sharp turns and neither is it advocated.


----------



## lowfat

You need rotaries for a 90 degree angle. They sell non-rotary ones but they will almost always never be at the direction you want. Making them useless.

3/4" OD Advanced LRT can not make sharp turns. It is horribly stiff stuff w/ a rather poor bend radius.


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Quick question for you gents. Ordering my fittings and tubing tomorrow. They're the last bits I need to finally take my rig off of air.
> 
> I'm under the impression that you have to have rotary fittings to make a 90 degree turn? Is this true? Or are there just regular 90 degree fittings that I can use? I'm not liking the idea of having to pay more than double the price of my other fittings just so I can make a few right angle turns.
> 
> In the event that I don't like the price of the fittings required to make those turns, about how sharp of turns can 1/2"ID 3/4"OD Advanced LRT tubing make?


Nothing is going to fit like you expect it to the first time. Especially with that tubing, I would stay away from 90's for the time being. The IDEAL situation would be to hook everything up in your case over and over without actually turning the computer on until you figure it exactly how you like it. Give yourself a week to put it together. Don't get the 90's until you test fit everything first. You don't yet realize it, but everything that you think is perfectly planned out and will fit together in your mind right now is really just you lying to yourself, lol. Expect torn fingers, lots of thrown out tubing, and a lot of GD moments...


----------



## VSG

Also expect to place several separate orders because some fittings don't work out and you decided to try out something else instead


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You need rotaries for a 90 degree angle. They sell non-rotary ones but they will almost always never be at the direction you want. Making them useless.
> 
> 3/4" OD Advanced LRT can not make sharp turns. It is horribly stiff stuff w/ a rather poor bend radius.


which OD can make a sharp tube? lol


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> which OD can make a sharp tube? lol


7/16x5/8 does pretty good.

And 1/2x5/8 also, but that makes the walls to thin in my opinion.


----------



## VSG

The smaller the better for sharp turns, but you run the risk of kinking and flow restriction then. Go for 1/2" or 5/8" OD if you want a good compromise.


----------



## lowfat

Smaller tubing has no impact on flow rate or performance. It is completely aesthetic preference. The thinner the tubing the better bend radius. Thin walled tubing can kink easily however.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Well I'm a little bit unsettled at the moment. I just realized that I bought the wrong D5 pump. I have the Swiftech MCP655-B which doesn't have the speed control option. The "B" wasn't obviously placed on PPC's website. Can't be mad at them though for my stupid mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming that I can use a fan controller or something of the sort as an alternative correct?


No. I've got the same pump and the blue wire only reports RPM. There is no way to control it because the only only other connector is the Molex.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Shouldn't run too fast, I used one of those pumps for a while. It did move water pretty hard until I added my Z77 MVF's stock VRM block to the loop. It had enough restriction in it to slow the flow down to perfection.


I'll have a XSPC Raystorm cpu block and two XSPC 670 full water blocks along with a 240mm res, 360 Monsta rad, ST30 240mm rad, and acrylic tubing in a single loop. I suppose I'll have to see when I get it all together.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No. I've got the same pump and the blue wire only reports RPM. There is no way to control it because the only only other connector is the Molex.


Actually, if you have a molex pin remover, you could change the wire connection down to 7v or 5v if you wanted without using any resistors.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No. I've got the same pump and the blue wire only reports RPM. There is no way to control it because the only only other connector is the Molex.


Does it make much noise? It says 8-24 volts in the description. I figured if you were to lower the voltage it would slow the pump down.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Actually, if you have a molex pin remover, you could change the wire connection down to 7v or 5v if you wanted without using any resistors.


Will the pump actually start @ 7V or 5V?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Will the pump actually start @ 7V or 5V?


My swiftech did. Don't know what more I can say. Lol


----------



## skupples

I wouldn't leave 90 degree (rotary) fittings out of your order, as you are going to need one or two with that size tube.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Does it make much noise? It says 8-24 volts in the description. I figured if you were to lower the voltage it would slow the pump down.


After the initial fill and bleed process you won't even hear it.
I've just finished the little Lian Li Supercharged box that has the same pump.
Give it the 12v it was made for and you'll be so happy.
Cross this problem off your list - it's not a problem








Connect the blue tach wire (after sleeving of course) to mobo fan header for rpm reading and if possible set up BIOS or software to shutdown system if rpm signal = 0


----------



## _REAPER_

I just finished my rebuild let me know what you think


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Pretty clean Reaper!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I just finished my rebuild let me know what you think


----------



## VSG

Very clean, you might want to top off that res to remove the condensation if you got spare pastel.


----------



## skupples

SO FRESH AND SO CLEAN CLEAN


----------



## VSG

Skupples, I am tempted to report that post as NSFW


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Skupples, I am tempted to report that post as NSFW


Lol, I would, but I just spit soda inside my keyboard when I scrolled down the page.


----------



## skupples

OK, cleaned it.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I figure this is as good a place to ask as any. I have 2x 240mm rads one rad has 2x 1650 or something rpm fans on it, (the ones that came with my rasa kit) the other rad just has standard cheapo cooler master 1200rpm fans.

Would I see any big gains in temps by replacing the 1200 rpm fans, or maybe even both sets of fans?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Will the pump actually start @ 7V or 5V?


The specs I saw said 6-12V, so it should run at 7V. Have to try it to find out though.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I figure this is as good a place to ask as any. I have 2x 240mm rads one rad has 2x 1650 or something rpm fans on it, (the ones that came with my rasa kit) the other rad just has standard cheapo cooler master 1200rpm fans.
> 
> Would I see any big gains in temps by replacing the 1200 rpm fans, or maybe even both sets of fans?


Depends on the FPI & thickness of the rads and the static pressure those cooler master fans can generate. I am sure there are tests done on stock radiator fans so you can get an idea what to expect.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Depends on the FPI & thickness of the rads and the static pressure those cooler master fans can generate. I am sure there are tests done on stock radiator fans so you can get an idea what to expect.


I have no idea what the static pressure on any of my fans are, the rads are EX240 rads.

I'm thinking I'd see a pretty negligible temp drop by changing them though, could be wrong however.

I don't even know what FPI means







this is my first loop


----------



## VSG

Fins per inch- essentially the higher they are, the more static pressure needed to get air through the rads and cool the fluid. What kind of temps are you seeing now? If they are cool enough as is, why bother changing?

The EX 240s have about 9-10 FPI so they are on the lower end and would do well with lower RPM (1000 or less) fans.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Fins per inch- essentially the higher they are, the more static pressure needed to get air through the rads and cool the fluid. What kind of temps are you seeing now? If they are cool enough as is, why bother changing?


I'm getting great temps, was just curious that's all since I see a ton of talk about this fan, that fan etc.

I'm maxing @ 55c on my 290x, usually closer to 50c.

my delid 3770k @ 4.6 (1.336) core is maxing @ 68c.


----------



## VSG

Well usually people buy rads and fans separately so there is no replacing stock fans involved. But then I have replaced stock Corsair case fans just because they did not have the rings that the regular Corsair AF120/140s come with so I am not one to say anything really


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well usually people buy rads and fans separately so there is no replacing stock fans involved. But then I have replaced stock Corsair case fans just because they did not have the rings that the regular Corsair AF120/140s come with so I am not one to say anything really


yea, it's likely not worth it to replace my fans. Especially since the better fans are kind of pricey and my temps are great already.


----------



## VSG

There you go, always nice to be able to save cash. Fans can get real expensive, real quick.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There you go, always nice to be able to save cash. Fans can get real expensive, real quick.


No kidding I just spent 500 $ for 32 ap15s


----------



## VSG

lol I was thinking of citing you as an example since I recently saw your order post for those fans. Through some sheer luck and some generosity on Amazon's part, I got 14 SP120's for about $100 or so.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> No kidding I just spent 500 $ for 32 ap15s


Uhm, why do you need so many fans? And doesn't that negate half the point of water cooling (keeping noise down?)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I was thinking of citing you as an example since I recently saw your order post for those fans.


Its my 3rd time ordering them I tried the day of the bad news and was refunded 2 days later. Only cost 375 $ at the time. Total was 542 $ but luckily I found a coupon for ppc for 8% off bringing it down 65 $ since I also ordered the aquaeros 6 with it.

From all the hype and religious followers im hoping its worth it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Uhm, why do you need so many fans? And doesn't that negate half the point of water cooling (keeping noise down?)


His is an extreme case, so ignore him









But seriously though, he has 16 fans each in push and pull spread across 4 480mm radiators so it isn't as bad as you think. Plus those fans he got are top class for performance/noise.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> His is an extreme case, so ignore him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously though, he has 16 fans each in push and pull spread across 4 480mm radiators so it isn't as bad as you think. Plus those fans he got are top class for performance/noise.


lol I need pics of this dudes setup


----------



## LunaP

Dont forget the aquaeros 6 fan controller


----------



## VSG

Go check out the Caselabs owner's thread, Stren for example has a TX-10 which can accommodate 9 x 140mm radiators. Don't linger in there too long though, you will start looking at your case with some disgust afterwards.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Go check out the Caselabs owner's thread, Stren for example has a TX-10 which can accommodate 9 x 140mm radiators. Don't linger in there too long though, you will start looking at your case with some disgust afterwards.


nah I just upgraded my case from some junk nzxt case that couldn't even fit a 240mm rad up top inside to a fractal arc midi r2 ( got a sweet deal on it for black Friday $50) so i'm pretty happy with my case at the moment + those caselabs cases are way more money than i'd ever spend on a case even though I know they are awesome. I'd prefer a second video card or something over all that case.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> nah I just upgraded my case from some junk nzxt case that couldn't even fit a 240mm rad up top inside to a fractal arc midi r2 ( got a sweet deal on it for black Friday $50) so i'm pretty happy with my case at the moment + those caselabs cases are way more money than i'd ever spend on a case even though I know they are awesome. I'd prefer a second video card or something over all that case.


I said the same thing 4 months ago








Now I own a TH10 rofl

Give it time







its the end all case.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I said the same thing 4 months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I own a TH10 rofl
> 
> Give it time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its the end all case.


Yea, maybe for my next build in 2 years. My wife is pretty upset lately black Friday put her over the edge when I spent a ton of money on electronics She doesn't even count the 700$ I got for my 7950's in the equation. All she knows is how much I spent









I can't really complain though i'm still in school for xray technology and she pays for most of this stuff. If I could stand working in retail I could buy more stuff but I promised my self i'd never go back to being utterly worthless to some big corporation









2 years or so and i'll be making pretty good money and then i'm going all out stupid builds.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Go check out the Caselabs owner's thread, Stren for example has a TX-10 which can accommodate 9 x 140mm radiators. Don't linger in there too long though, you will start looking at your case with some disgust afterwards.


That can be true. I have to keep myself from buying a case every time I see one. Though I have plans down the road to get one. But, right now, I am going to have fun taking a dremel and spray paint to my case.


----------



## CroakV

Can I join?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hello to another Southern California OCN'er.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Was on the phone shortly after talking to Mark from FCPU, PPC is out of the Bay res color I want.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good choice on the PWM version (I personally use that same res/pump combo) since the reservoir housing will actually cover up the entire pump.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My first tube cut and chamfering:


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My first tube cut and chamfering:


Nice. The chamfering isn't really necessary with those Primochill compression fittings, at least not like it is with the push-fit type fittings where you could easily damage an o-ring pushing the tube in. With the primochill fittings you just slip the compression ring on first, then the o-ring, and finally the fitting onto the end. Since the o-ring seals ~ 5mm or so from the end the ends of the tube do not need to be all pretty or cleaned up much. A perfectly straight cut isn't even all that necessary. 'Close-enough' works just fine and no one will ever see it.

I've found that when trying to get the length of a piece of acrylic right, I leave the piece longer than I need on both ends and do any bending first, then I try to put it up in place if I can and purposefully cut about ~2mm - 3mm longer on each end than I eyeballed it to need to be, and I'll cut it a little longer than that first if I need to just to get it up in place to where it needs to be for measuring purposes. Then I'll use a piece of sandpaper I contact cemented to a board (I think it's 150 grit) to quickly file down the ends to sneak up on the exact measurement I need. It only takes a few seconds to sand ~1mm this way and it pretty much takes care of any burrs from the initial cutting that would interfere with the compression fitting.

I'll often wind up slipping the fitting on and put the tube up in place (if I can) and then take it back off and sand a little more a couple times until I get the length perfect like I want. I sometimes hold the end of the tube at a slight angle on the sandpaper and spin it once or twice to sort of chamfer the outside edge just a tiny bit, but the most I usually do is clean the end up a little bit with the tip of a finger. I also sometimes dip the end in a glass of distilled just to help clean the cutting/sanding dust/debris off of it. Either way I only spend a couple seconds at most on cleaning the end up after sanding down to the length I needed.

It sure won't hurt anything to chamfer the ends nice and pretty, but you'll want to do it only after you know the length is perfect, and as I tried to explain above the easiest way I've found to get the length right is to measure twice or thrice, then cut it a little long anyway on purpose, and sneak up on it by sanding the end down.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Nice. The chamfering isn't really necessary with those Primochill compression fittings, at least not like it is with the push-fit type fittings where you could easily damage an o-ring pushing the tube in. With the primochill fittings you just slip the compression ring on first, then the o-ring, and finally the fitting onto the end. Since the o-ring seals ~ 5mm or so from the end the ends of the tube do not need to be all pretty or cleaned up much. A perfectly straight cut isn't even all that necessary. 'Close-enough' works just fine and no one will ever see it.
> 
> I've found that when trying to get the length of a piece of acrylic right, I leave the piece longer than I need on both ends and do any bending first, then I try to put it up in place if I can and purposefully cut about ~2mm - 3mm longer on each end than I eyeballed it to need to be, and I'll cut it a little longer than that first if I need to just to get it up in place to where it needs to be for measuring purposes. Then I'll use a piece of sandpaper I contact cemented to a board (I think it's 150 grit) to quickly file down the ends to sneak up on the exact measurement I need. It only takes a few seconds to sand ~1mm this way and it takes care of any burrs from the initial cutting that would interfere with the compression fitting get sanded off in the process. I'll often wind up slipping the fitting on and put the tube up in place and then take it back off and sand a little more a couple times until I get the length perfect like I want and I don't do any chamfering because the sanded end is just fine. The most I usually do is clean the end up a little bit with the tip of a finger.
> 
> It sure won't hurt anything to chamfer the ends nice and pretty, but you'll want to do it only after you know the length is perfect, and as I tried to explain above the easiest way I've found to get the length right is to measure twice or thrice, then cut it a little long anyway on purpose, and sneak up on it by sanding the end down.


I did noticed that no chamfering is needed for my fittings, but it makes the cut look a lot cleaner and doesn't take much effort. Thanks for all the input, I will certainly try to get the bend first then trim the ends to a perfect fit. The most challenging bend for me will be coming from the top radiator into the CPU block. That might have 2-3 bends. I did get a bunch of extra tubing in case i mess up, but trying to get the cleanest possible look.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Just tried it and my d5 won't start at 7v


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'll have a XSPC Raystorm cpu block and two XSPC 670 full water blocks along with a 240mm res, 360 Monsta rad, ST30 240mm rad, and acrylic tubing in a single loop. I suppose I'll have to see when I get it all together.


I think you're going to be just fine.


----------



## stickg1

I got two of my radiators yesterday. For being used they sure look to be in great condition...


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking 540 build.


----------



## rickyman0319

do u guys know where to look for 7/16x5/8 watercooled system (pictures)? I want to see how it is done?


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do u guys know where to look for 7/16x5/8 watercooled system (pictures)? I want to see how it is done?


im using 1/2x5/8 in mine.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do u guys know where to look for 7/16x5/8 watercooled system (pictures)? I want to see how it is done?


Not sure what you mean but my old system was 7/16" x 5/8" tubing..



But in regards to "how it is done," it's the same as any other tubing.


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do u guys know where to look for 7/16x5/8 watercooled system (pictures)? I want to see how it is done?


7/16 x 5/8 here


----------



## _REAPER_

Current Temps are about 8C above ambiant Idle is 32C on the CPU and 28C on the GPUs


----------



## 218689




----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Uhm, why do you need so many fans? And doesn't that negate half the point of water cooling (keeping noise down?)


My system has 25 of them. Still whisper quiet(to my ears) 1 corsair rad fan is louder than 12 of these things. It's about that pitch. These have a very low frequency. <3 AP15's i'll keep re-using them in every build until they all burn up.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Just tried it and my d5 won't start at 7v


That's what I was trying to say. Using a voltage reducer didn't work for me either.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's what I was trying to say. Using a voltage reducer didn't work for me either.


Which model D5's are they??

It only worked with my Non-pwm fixed speed D5, the pwm and Variable D5's didn't work.

My fixed speed alphacool and swiftech pumps did with 7v


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Which model D5's are they??
> 
> It only worked with my Non-pwm fixed speed D5, the pwm and Variable D5's didn't work.
> 
> My fixed speed alpha and swiftech pumps did with 7v


I have the fixed speed model also and a voltage reducer didn't work for me either. The pump wouldn't start at all.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

I have a fixed speed non pwm D5. I put the yellow wire to 12V and black to 5V (yielding 12-5 =7V) and the pump just kinda shook but would not start. I'm sure 10 would do it and probably 8 or 9.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have the fixed speed model also and a voltage reducer didn't work for me either. The pump wouldn't start at all.


I'm sorry, I don't know what to tell you. Did you use a "voltage reducer" cable of just swap the molex wires to do it? I don't know if that could be it or if they have changed something in the pump over the last two years.

I don't run my D5's at anything below full speed now, so I have not done in a while and the pumps I have now I got several months ago and have not tried it with them as they are Alphacool Varios


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'm sorry, I don't know what to tell you. Did you use a "voltage reducer" cable of just swap the molex wires to do it? I don't know if that could be it or if they have changed something in the pump over the last two years.
> 
> I don't run my D5's at anything below full speed now, so I have not done in a while and the pumps I have now I got several months ago and have not tried it with them as they are Alphacool Varios


It doesn't bother me because the pump isn't noisy to begin with. I just tried to see if a 7v reducer would work to reduce the speed and it the pump wouldn't even start.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My system has 25 of them. Still whisper quiet(to my ears) 1 corsair rad fan is louder than 12 of these things. It's about that pitch. These have a very low frequency. <3 AP15's i'll keep re-using them in every build until they all burn up.


Have to say the AP15s are nice. Only got three of them, but I switched to the Corsair SP120s. They seem a little bit louder, but me that much of a difference, but then again 25 fans probably create far more noise. Though a fan as to be real loud to bother me since I usually got music playing. Though once and awhile I can hear the 3,000 rpm delta fan I smacked on the Asus Sabertooth fire up. Now if a fan sound like a bilge fan in the under floor of C-17....I would go insane.

Anyway last few pics of the main rig before its upcoming rebuild. Have to say that for my first water cool the Rasa kit has served well.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It doesn't bother me because the pump isn't noisy to begin with. I just tried to see if a 7v reducer would work to reduce the speed and it the pump wouldn't even start.


Full speed doesn't bother me either, I originally did the wire swap to see if lowering the speed did anything for my temps at all, it was only a 2c difference with slowing the pump, so I left it at 12v after the testing because I don't know what it would have done to reliability.


----------



## skupples

I currently have the beast less than a foot away from my left ear up on the arm of my desk, so I can hear it very well. Once my 20 foot DVI cables show up it will be on the other side of the room, then I can blast 100% everything all the time and not care.

1 Dynatron g199>louder than 1000 typhoons.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I currently have the beast less than a foot away from my left ear up on the arm of my desk, so I can hear it very well. Once my 20 foot DVI cables show up it will be on the other side of the room, then I can blast 100% everything all the time and not care.
> 
> 1 Dynatron g199>louder than 1000 typhoons.


What model pump dude? And is it in a bay res or something? The last three alphacool D5 variables I've had were basically silent.
I use the Bitspower pump tops with their reservoir upgrades on mine, and the whole setup is usually mounted to a rad/fan via UN Z2 brackets. And granted, all systems will be different.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> What model pump dude? And is it in a bay res or something? The last three alphacool D5 variables I've had were basically silent.
> I use the Bitspower pump tops with their reservoir upgrades on mine, and the whole setup is usually mounted to a rad/fan via UN Z2 brackets. And granted, all systems will be different.


My pump is MCP35x2, which even @ 100%(56% read out) it's not very loud once all the air is out of the system. Yes, it's in a bay res, which i'll be throwing to the hounds very soon. Slightly disappointed with the quality of the Maelstrom. The only problem is that iv'e lost control of it ever since installing Aquasuite for my A6XT. Oh, & just to mention, I have the heat sink AND fan on it, so it's ice cold, it's a night & day comparison to running it without the heatsink.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do u guys know where to look for 7/16x5/8 watercooled system (pictures)? I want to see how it is done?


16mm/11mm here, same same as 7/16 x 5/8.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My pump is MCP35x2, which even @ 100%(56% read out) it's not very loud once all the air is out of the system. Yes, it's in a bay res, which i'll be throwing to the hounds very soon. Slightly disappointed with the quality of the Maelstrom. The only problem is that iv'e lost control of it ever since installing Aquasuite for my A6XT. Oh, & just to mention, I have the heat sink AND fan on it, so it's ice cold, it's a night & day comparison to running it without the heatsink.


Ah, that's why. We've been discussing the D5's specifically, the DDC pumps are way louder than the D5, at least in my limited experience with them (I have only had 2), and they weren't horrible mind you sound wise, just a lot louder than the D5's I've had.


----------



## skupples

This is the only pump iv'e ever had, & when your dealing with a dual PSU, 26 fanned rig it's barely audible, though the d5 design seems like it would be quieter.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Just tried it and my d5 won't start at 7v
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was trying to say. Using a voltage reducer didn't work for me either.
Click to expand...

Both my D5's start at 7v...according to my CW611.
How accurate that is, is debatable tho.....


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Both my D5's start at 7v...according to my CW611.
> How accurate that is, is debatable tho.....


Not fair!












I just plugged the pump straight into 7V from the PSU, well 7.112 according to my DMM lol, and I could see the imepeller( probably no the right word...) of the pump through my rec and it was twitching like it wanted to start, so mine almost starts at 7V.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I have a fixed speed non pwm D5. I put the yellow wire to 12V and black to 5V (yielding 12-5 =7V) and the pump just kinda shook but would not start. I'm sure 10 would do it and probably 8 or 9.


Um, in my system, it was yellow=12v and red=5v

So I left the yellow wire and just moved the female molex connector ground pin on the pump to the outside hole that was for the 5v wire.

Edit: I think we just said the same thing, just differently.....


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Um, in my system, it was yellow=12v and red=5v
> 
> So I left the yellow wire and just moved the female molex connector ground pin on the pump to the outside hole that was for the 5v wire.
> 
> Edit: I think we just said the same thing, just differently.....


Yup same thing lol


----------



## stickg1

IS there any good sub-$50 fan controllers? Or do those not exist? I see the AquaComputer 5 and 6 and some Lamptrons that look nice, but I don't think I can spend $100+ on a controller. Should I just save up for something nice or is there cheaper options? It doesn't need to be able to control PWM or anything, I know I'm going to have 6 fans in my case when it's all said and done but I don't want to overload the stock 5v, 7v, 12v controller on my Midi R2.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> IS there any good sub-$50 fan controllers? Or do those not exist? I see the AquaComputer 5 and 6 and some Lamptrons that look nice, but I don't think I can spend $100+ on a controller. Should I just save up for something nice or is there cheaper options? It doesn't need to be able to control PWM or anything, I know I'm going to have 6 fans in my case when it's all said and done but I don't want to overload the stock 5v, 7v, 12v controller on my Midi R2.


Just get anything that has like 30w per channel. The bitfenix 5 channel fan controller is a good option. Its usually around $35.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> IS there any good sub-$50 fan controllers? Or do those not exist? I see the AquaComputer 5 and 6 and some Lamptrons that look nice, but I don't think I can spend $100+ on a controller. Should I just save up for something nice or is there cheaper options? It doesn't need to be able to control PWM or anything, I know I'm going to have 6 fans in my case when it's all said and done but I don't want to overload the stock 5v, 7v, 12v controller on my Midi R2.


sunbeam also makes quality inexpensive fan controllers. I was running 20 fans from a sunbeam for a long time.


----------



## wermad

I can vouch the Mix2 has been improved drastically vs the old Mix and Mesh controllers. I like that the channels can be lit in a few different colors. Though I'm pushing more fans for the max wattage per channel, I'm running my fans at 40% so the total per channel is under its specified maximum.


----------



## lowfat

Repolished the top and painted my pump base.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-43.jpg.html

Then painted and resanded the reservoir.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-38-2.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-41.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-39-1.jpg.html

Flat black makes everything look better.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Speaking of fan controllers...






Very early prototype/beta but


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Repolished the top and painted my pump base.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-43.jpg.html
> 
> Then painted and resanded the reservoir.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-38-2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-41.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-39-1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Flat black makes everything look better.


DDC love







...waiting for the D5 lovers to hate









I had a hard time getting the paint to stick on Koolance fittings/plugs. Nice job there


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> DDC love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...waiting for the D5 lovers to hate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a hard time getting the paint to stick on Koolance fittings/plugs. Nice job there


I ended up getting a sweet deal on that EK DDC top/140m reservoir combo and it comes with a DDC pump. I believe the Swiftech 355. I don't know if it has speed control though, don't they overheat at full speed and get kinda loud? Should I replace it with the 3.25 PWM?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I ended up getting a sweet deal on that EK DDC top/140m reservoir combo and it comes with a DDC pump. I believe the Swiftech 355. I don't know if it has speed control though, don't they overheat at full speed and get kinda loud? Should I replace it with the 3.25 PWM?


Its a great pump. You can drop the voltage using a fan controller. Its my second favorite pump. If you want pwm, the 35x is the next ddc option. I've seen used 35x sell for ~$50. I run mine at 100% and the noise is not a problem w/ fifty case fans tbh. Personally, I can't bother w/ pwm. Tried it with my Silver Arrow but it was just overtly complicated for me and wasn't that necessary. I'll have to take a vid of my pump and fans running in concert for acoustic purposes. I hear lots of moans the 35X is noisy. Yet, had a D5 previously, I found that noisier. To each their own


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> IS there any good sub-$50 fan controllers? Or do those not exist? I see the AquaComputer 5 and 6 and some Lamptrons that look nice, but I don't think I can spend $100+ on a controller. Should I just save up for something nice or is there cheaper options? It doesn't need to be able to control PWM or anything, I know I'm going to have 6 fans in my case when it's all said and done but I don't want to overload the stock 5v, 7v, 12v controller on my Midi R2.


$9 bucks, 4 channels, 20w per channel









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=342


----------



## skupples

Like I said before, I only find mcp35x2 loud when it's bleeding. Then it SCREAAAAAAAAAMs.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its a great pump. You can drop the voltage using a fan controller. Its my second favorite pump. If you want pwm, the 35x is the next ddc option. I've seen used 35x sell for ~$50. I run mine at 100% and the noise is not a problem w/ fifty case fans tbh. Personally, I can't bother w/ pwm. Tried it with my Silver Arrow but it was just overtly complicated for me and wasn't that necessary. I'll have to take a vid of my pump and fans running in concert for acoustic purposes. I hear lots of moans the 35X is noisy. Yet, had a D5 previously, I found that noisier. To each their own


I'll just have to get it all put together and then see if its too loud or too much flow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> $9 bucks, 4 channels, 20w per channel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=342


Yeah but it looks like a sack, lol. I think my fans a quiet enough I can just run them all full speed anyway.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> IS there any good sub-$50 fan controllers? Or do those not exist? I see the AquaComputer 5 and 6 and some Lamptrons that look nice, but I don't think I can spend $100+ on a controller. Should I just save up for something nice or is there cheaper options? It doesn't need to be able to control PWM or anything, I know I'm going to have 6 fans in my case when it's all said and done but I don't want to overload the stock 5v, 7v, 12v controller on my Midi R2.


Seeing that you only plan to have 6 fans, you have lots of options. I have this one on my X machine and it works great

Bitfenix 5 channel controller


----------



## psycho84




----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


On my phone so excuse the no spoilers but what external rad is that?!?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## lowfat

From judging from the big 'MO-RA' label on the front of the radiator I would likely guess it was a Mo-ra.









Nice PC-V7 BTW. It would be pretty much the only modern case I would buy.


----------



## psycho84

It's a "Watercool MoRa 3 Pro 420".

click me


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Are those 140mm fans or is your case just much smaller than it looks?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> DDC love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...waiting for the D5 lovers to hate


I love my DDCs too.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> From judging from the big 'MO-RA' label on the front of the radiator I would likely guess it was a Mo-ra.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice PC-V7 BTW. It would be pretty much the only modern case I would buy.


Wasn't able to see that on my phone







lol thanks though!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> It's a "Watercool MoRa 3 Pro 420".
> 
> click me


Thanks!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## psycho84

The Radiator is bigger than it looks ^^

And jep, 18x 140mm Fans (9 per Side) on it


----------



## DarthBaggins

I just want a pump so no hate for either design, lol
but can't wait for my aquabox 5.25 bay res to arrive


----------



## LunaP

FrozenCpu has gotten me, first time was stating they were shipping out saturday and then tracking showed they sent the package in monday evening.

HOLY crap that XSPC res is large compared to the thin res photos i've seen of it , must've been stock of something else LOL. That + Fedex lost a package from PPC's and USPS lost the other package from FCPU so yeah lol..which is about 1.4k of components.Turning out to be a really crappy holiday season


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> lol 2nd time FrozenCpu has gotten me, first time was stating they were shipping out saturday and then tracking showed they sent the package in monday evening.
> 
> Now I got another package which I ordered the pump, but I got the pump box w/o the pump just the o-ring and w/e this plastic looking fitting is... Also HOLY crap that res is large compared to the thin res photos i've seen of it , must've been stock of something else LOL. That + Fedex lost a package from PPC's and USPS lost the other package from FCPU so yeah lol..which is about 1.4k of components.Turning out to be a really crappy holiday season


My pump showed up the same way, but the pump itself was with my other package that had the top and pump cover in it, fully assembled for me already........ I hope all turns out well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> lol 2nd time FrozenCpu has gotten me, first time was stating they were shipping out saturday and then tracking showed they sent the package in monday evening.
> 
> Now I got another package which I ordered the pump, but I got the pump box w/o the pump just the o-ring and w/e this plastic looking fitting is..the res bay came though but no pump now to put inside lol..yayy. Also HOLY crap that XSPC res is large compared to the thin res photos i've seen of it , must've been stock of something else LOL. That + Fedex lost a package from PPC's and USPS lost the other package from FCPU so yeah lol..which is about 1.4k of components.Turning out to be a really crappy holiday season


That sucks dude







. Have the stores open up claims for you. What did the tracking show? I know about set backs, dealing with them. But slow but surely, I'm getting them tackled.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> My pump showed up the same way, but the pump itself was with my other package that had the top and pump cover in it, fully assembled for me already........ I hope all turns out well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That sucks dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Have the stores open up claims for you. What did the tracking show? I know about set backs, dealing with them. But slow but surely, I'm getting them tackled.


Appreciate it and I tried their cells since I ended up grabbing them last time due tot his issue but no response, left messages and sent emails, they were closed all day today and I know they're closed tomorrow...

The first time I called in to upgrade shipping and they verified they upgraded and said they put the label on and everything after taking the payment, 2 days later I check the slip to see why it hadn't arrived yet since it was upgraded to 2 day deliver, and it showed ground. Called them up Sat morning and they got their manager on the phone and he apologized and said he would make up for it by spending extra and upgrading it from 2 day to overnight and lied about it stating that they were staying in the shop and ensuring it would ship out then gave me a tracking number around 2pm.

It updated on Monday night stating the exact shipping method I had originally requested and NOT overnight so their story was bogus. Basically 2 day shipping again, but it showed that they didnt' even send the package out of their office till Monday evening. And now there's no status update on it. And everythings closed tomorrow, so yeah even though the package from PPC's is lost , I blame that on USPS, as it was set to overnight on the weekend , shipped out monday morning and dissapeared after that.


----------



## LunaP

Alright update on teh Pump, I just looked in the res looks like they cable sleeved it and put the pump inside and shipped as is, so that's at least good. so I retract the original about the pump, the box was sealed so didn't expect that.

So I feel a bit better now, at least I can install it and get a feel for how I"m gonna wire things. I apologize for jumping to conclusions, honestly I didn't expect that. I'll rededit my previous posts

Current lost contents in the mail are curently

4x UT60 480's
1x XSPC raystorm Acrylic
2x XSPC Razor backplates for Titans
32x GT AP-15's
1x Aquaeros 6
36ft of 1/2" OD Clear Acrylic Tube

On that note should I flush the Bay Res out ? or am I ok to go w/ it and if so what method should I use.


----------



## wermad

Good to hear the pump was found!

Usps is notorious for crappy and late updates on tracking. My ram still showed arrived at the sorting facility (and not "at local office" and "out for delivery") and was eventually delivered.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good to hear the pump was found!
> 
> Usps is notorious for crappy and late updates on tracking. My ram still showed arrived at the sorting facility (and not "at local office" and "out for delivery") and was eventually delivered.


I just realized I also made an error and purchased the D5 edition of the Monsoon series 2 bayres vs the DDC version which has a different style backplate.

The odd thing is the DDC version only offers up to the MCP35x while the D5 has an option on FCPU for the DDC MCP65x pump, so I'm GUESSING I"m ok ? Since I got the MCP65x DDC pump =x


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'd usually place all the blame on Santa for all the shipping problems this time of year every year, but I saw on the news today the video where someone shot Santa in the back, so no wonder things aren't showing up on time.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I just realized I also made an error and purchased the D5 edition of the Monsoon series 2 bayres vs the DDC version which has a different style backplate.
> 
> The odd thing is the DDC version only offers up to the MCP35x while the D5 has an option on FCPU for the DDC MCP65x pump, so I'm GUESSING I"m ok ? *Since I got the MCP65x DDC pump =x*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Maybe I'm mistaken since my experience with DDC pumps is slim-to-none, but that sure looks like a D5 pump ring and a D5 pump sticking out the back of that res to my eyes.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Maybe I'm mistaken since my experience with DDC pumps is slim-to-none, but that sure looks like a D5 pump ring and a D5 pump sticking out the back of that res to my eyes.


This is the pump.



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=7694


----------



## wrigleyvillain

36 feet of tubing?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> 36 feet of tubing?


Yes Thirty-six feet of acrylic tubing.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh right...isn't that still way more than really needed though? I probably wouldn't use 36 feet of regular tubing in 20 years. But hey I'm not particularly extreme (or rich).

Edit: Well better way safe than sorry I guess. I realize you need to bend and shape and get it _just right_.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Oh right...isn't that still way more than really needed though? I probably wouldn't use 36 feet of regular tubing in 20 years. But hey I'm not particularly extreme (or rich).


Actually its 42 feet my apologies, and If spending less than 20$ (after taxes ) is considered rich then I'm misinformed.

Either way It's my first time w/ acrylic tubing and WC to be exact so rather have extra at hand in case I undercut or decide to swap things out later or redesign.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This is the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=7694


That's a D5, not DDC.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's a D5, not DDC.


Well crap then ... Lol so I take it there would be a variable setting inside then? Or is it like a hybrid and supports both?


----------



## rickyman0319

is that a good or bad pump?


----------



## wermad

Do they still sell those "uber" D5 models w/ the BP kits? They're like ~$200 each (







). Pimp my pump pc style, yo!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well crap then ... Lol so I take it there would be a variable setting inside then? Or is it like a hybrid and supports both?


It should only support PWM as far as I know.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Actually its 42 feet my apologies, and If spending less than 20$ (after taxes ) is considered rich then I'm misinformed.
> 
> Either way It's my first time w/ acrylic tubing and WC to be exact so rather have extra at hand in case I undercut or decide to swap things out later or redesign.


Oh, cool. I figured considerably more per foot for the new hot thing and all. Right on and GLWB. I dig that bay res...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's a D5, not DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap then ... Lol so I take it there would be a variable setting inside then? Or is it like a hybrid and supports both?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is that a good or bad pump?


What you have there is the D5 series equivalent to the DDC style 35X.

It's a PWM speed controlled pump. It's the only PWM D5.

It has a molex for the 12V supply, and a 4 pin fan connector which most usually plugs onto the mobo's CPU fan header, but if you're running an Aquaero 6, it can be better controlled from that.

If you don't connect any PWM signal to it, it will run at 60% by default.

It's a very nice pump, with a good PWM controller, it has much greater speed control than any other D5 using variable voltage.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is that a good or bad pump?


IMHO D5 >>>>>>>> DDC all day every day.

It's a bit of a 'tastes great' vs 'less filling' type argument.

DDCs do offer better head pressure than a D5, but the DDCs are louder and do suffer from well-known well-documented heat-related failure issues. Sometimes DDCs literally have a meltdown when ran at or near 100%, especially in a loop with low restriction - there's yet another new post in the watercooling forum with that happening to someone in the past couple days where it looks like their DDC almost started a fire.

D5s comparatively are bulletproof. I'm with B Negative all the way ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [...]
> 
> I get labelled a D5 fanboi...and for good reason,DDC's are not good...being unable to run a 12v pump at 12v for any period of time is purest design fail.
> I get stick from DDC owners all the time that are so hung up on the max pressure their little pumps can provide...not realizing that the pumps also have a PQ curve and that their pump cant run at 12v for too long unless its a 10w DDC. The 10w are bombproof and well worth the money btw,they have no problem with 12v all day long.
> 
> The D5,however,can take 12v and beyond,up to 24v with zero issues,no overheating and no reliability issues,the max numbers may not be in their favor but max numbers dont mean a thing. Reliability is everything.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What you have there is the D5 series equivalent to the DDC style 35X.
> 
> It's a PWM speed controlled pump. It's the only PWM D5.
> 
> It has a molex for the 12V supply, and a 4 pin fan connector which most usually plugs onto the mobo's CPU fan header, but if you're running an Aquaero 6, it can be better controlled from that.
> 
> If you don't connect any PWM signal to it, it will run at 60% by default.
> 
> It's a very nice pump, with a good PWM controller, it has much greater speed control than any other D5 using variable voltage.
> 
> Darlene


+1 Thanks ! <3
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> IMHO D5 >>>>>>>> DDC all day every day.
> 
> It's a bit of a 'tastes great' vs 'less filling' type argument.
> 
> DDCs do offer better head pressure than a D5, but the DDCs are louder and do suffer from well-known well-documented heat-related failure issues. Sometimes DDCs literally have a meltdown when ran at or near 100%, especially in a loop with low restriction - there's yet another new post in the watercooling forum with that happening to someone in the past couple days where it looks like their DDC almost started a fire.
> 
> D5s comparatively are bulletproof. I'm with B Negative all the way ...


So I'm good right? I'm good right? It's still a D5 technically







??


----------



## Roxycon

Those pumps are really nice







have worked with four different of them and it was a dream to bleed the systems compared to the ek dcp 2.2 pumps, just make sure to hook it up to the cpu fan header for true pwm function

With my system which is only pwm on fans and pumps my parents said "its like your computer is breathing by itself"


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What you have there is the D5 series equivalent to the DDC style 35X.
> 
> It's a PWM speed controlled pump. It's the only PWM D5.
> 
> It has a molex for the 12V supply, and a 4 pin fan connector which most usually plugs onto the mobo's CPU fan header, but if you're running an Aquaero 6, it can be better controlled from that.
> 
> If you don't connect any PWM signal to it, it will run at 60% by default.
> 
> It's a very nice pump, with a good PWM controller, it has much greater speed control than any other D5 using variable voltage.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> +1 Thanks ! <3
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> IMHO D5 >>>>>>>> DDC all day every day.
> 
> It's a bit of a 'tastes great' vs 'less filling' type argument.
> 
> DDCs do offer better head pressure than a D5, but the DDCs are louder and do suffer from well-known well-documented heat-related failure issues. Sometimes DDCs literally have a meltdown when ran at or near 100%, especially in a loop with low restriction - there's yet another new post in the watercooling forum with that happening to someone in the past couple days where it looks like their DDC almost started a fire.
> 
> D5s comparatively are bulletproof. I'm with B Negative all the way ...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So I'm good right? I'm good right? It's still a D5 technically
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ??
Click to expand...

Yes it's a D5, it'll pop onto any res or whatever made for a D5.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> [...] So I'm good right? I'm good right? It's still a D5 technically
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ??


I think you have a GREAT pump. However, if I'm not mistaken you also are building an obscene loop in a behemoth of a case. That one D5 will suffice, but you might find you could benefit from running dual D5s.


----------



## rickyman0319

what is he trying to do with a pump?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what is he trying to do with a pump?


Four 480's a cpu and two titans if im correct


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Four 480's a cpu and two titans if im correct


I am thinking that he need at least 2 D5 or 2 35x in order to work.

what about X2 750 w/ 2 x 240 and cpu block? will it work?


----------



## Roxycon

I have two of those pumps with two 480' and a 360, two gtx680 blocks and a cpu block, but i couldnt go cheap on the pumps since i need the pressure for the all parallell loop









I would say yes, since two pumps is mostly for redundancy, but not qoute me on that.. More well read and experienced people here than me


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Work in progress
Sorry for the poor image quality, I don't have the proper lighting to take ideal pictures, especially given how dark the build is



Coolant will be distilled + Mayhems Pastel Red, plus however much Mayhems Deep Red I need to add to match the sleeving


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Its my 3rd time ordering them I tried the day of the bad news and was refunded 2 days later. Only cost 375 $ at the time. Total was 542 $ but luckily I found a coupon for ppc for 8% off bringing it down 65 $ since I also ordered the aquaeros 6 with it.
> 
> From all the hype and religious followers im hoping its worth it.


if you don't like them, I'll buy a few at your cost from you. my rig only needed 3 though. One AP-29, and two AP-15.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> IS there any good sub-$50 fan controllers? Or do those not exist? I see the AquaComputer 5 and 6 and some Lamptrons that look nice, but I don't think I can spend $100+ on a controller. Should I just save up for something nice or is there cheaper options? It doesn't need to be able to control PWM or anything, I know I'm going to have 6 fans in my case when it's all said and done but I don't want to overload the stock 5v, 7v, 12v controller on my Midi R2.


I have and love my lamptron fan controller touch. A little bit more than the $50 you wanted to spend, but well worth the extra money imo


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> Work in progress
> Sorry for the poor image quality, I don't have the proper lighting to take ideal pictures, especially given how dark the build is
> 
> 
> 
> Coolant will be distilled + Mayhems Pastel Red, plus however much Mayhems Deep Red I need to add to match the sleeving


I just had to do a color match for a client build, to what looks like the same red as those wires in your system, I would recommend you get the standard red dye and not the deep red, since it's a "bright" red your trying to match.

Just my thoughts.

Edit: And I'm sorry, I didn't have time to take pics of it, but it took the standard red dye to get the match, the deep red dye was just way too dark.

Edit 2: ASUS recommends that with just two sticks of memory to use the RED memory slots as they are the primary slots for each channel. Can have benefits to overclocking and memory performance. Every CPU socket after LGA775 has been this way.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

@LunaP, another fun fact about the AP fans is their power draw. compare a fan of roughly similar specs (CFM), and then look at the label's amperage rating. you may find yourself slightly surprised.


----------



## Roxycon

Is that ocz's ram cooler? How youre liking them?







got one in shipping atm hoping to hide away my ram to tie it better in with the rest of my build


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> @LunaP, another fun fact about the AP fans is their power draw. compare a fan of roughly similar specs (CFM), and then look at the label's amperage rating. you may find yourself slightly surprised.


I ran 6 AP-15's off my MVE CPU header, beats using a fan controller. Those fans are very very low power


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> @LunaP, another fun fact about the AP fans is their power draw. compare a fan of roughly similar specs (CFM), and then look at the label's amperage rating. you may find yourself slightly surprised.
> 
> 
> 
> I ran 6 AP-15's off my MVE CPU header, beats using a fan controller. Those fans are very very low power
Click to expand...

They still have a pretty high startup power draw. The AP-15 is rated at 83 mA (.083 amps) but its startup is 360 mA (.36 amps) which watts = amps x volts which would be .36 x 12 = 4.32 watts per fan at startup.

They're right at 1 watt each once they get going, but six AP-15s would be 26 watts at startup, which is more than I would think _any_ mobo is supposed to handle. I've always made sure the startup load is under the rated capacity of whatever my fans were plugged into. Perhaps IT Diva will weigh in on the importance or lack thereof of the startup load with relation to mobo headers & fan controllers.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> Work in progress
> Sorry for the poor image quality, I don't have the proper lighting to take ideal pictures, especially given how dark the build is
> 
> 
> 
> Coolant will be distilled + Mayhems Pastel Red, plus however much Mayhems Deep Red I need to add to match the sleeving


Dat mips MVE looks pretty stealthy


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> They still have a pretty high startup power draw. The AP-15 is rated at 83 mA (.083 amps) but its startup is 360 mA (.36 amps) which watts = amps x volts which would be .36 x 12 = 4.32 watts per fan at startup.
> 
> They're right at 1 watt each once they get going, but six AP-15s would be 26 watts at startup, which is more than I would think _any_ mobo is supposed to handle. I've always made sure the startup load is under the rated capacity of whatever my fans were plugged into. Perhaps IT Diva will weigh in on the importance or lack thereof of the startup load with relation to mobo headers & fan controllers.


to a point, i'm more worried about constant load than startup, at least when it comes to heat capacity of the fan controllers.


----------



## szeged

got some more rads in for my build today, what do you guys think

UT60 480mm up front or a monsta 360 up front?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Those pumps are really nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have worked with four different of them and it was a dream to bleed the systems compared to the ek dcp 2.2 pumps, just make sure to hook it up to the cpu fan header for true pwm function
> 
> With my system which is only pwm on fans and pumps my parents said "its like your computer is breathing by itself"


Thanks, and I'll be putting them in w/ the Aquaeros 6







so even better!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I think you have a GREAT pump. However, if I'm not mistaken you also are building an obscene loop in a behemoth of a case. That one D5 will suffice, but you might find you could benefit from running dual D5s.


I was planning on getting a res w/ a pump later on if needed, the Tube res from XSPC for now is going to be part of my 16-bit gamers theme for one side of the case, I'll probably get a thinner tube w/ pump for another section or near it or somewhere else. Hopefully they'll work together in unison, that or I'll make sure they both have the same style pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Four 480's a cpu and two titans if im correct


3 titans now officially







Course I've heard people powering even larger builds w/ no issue on them so hopefully I'm good, though I will be putting in a 2ndary later on for backup purposes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> I ran 6 AP-15's off my MVE CPU header, beats using a fan controller. Those fans are very very low power


I'd rather not risk overloading the board w/ everything else I'll be throwing at it, I think the aquaeros 6 should do fine, though originally I was looking @ a lamptron w/ the turn knobs and color changing front which was smexy as hell, also 30w per channel but only 4 channels sadly, which I still may get for future upgrades for additional RAD's, as to not overload the Aquaeros, as 32 fans + 2 pumps + w/e though I'm sure it can handle it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> to a point, i'm more worried about constant load than startup, at least when it comes to heat capacity of the fan controllers.


Never heard of the controllers getting heated up but I should have good airflow hitting them so should be ok I hope.

Also for my bay res should I clean it out w/ distilled? both ports are open atm, so guessing dust COULD get in. I also bought mayhems blood red dye, , do I need anything else? THe bay res came w/ silver bullet anti microbial plugs as well, should I install them or ignore it since I'm using copper/acrylic only?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> Work in progress
> Sorry for the poor image quality, I don't have the proper lighting to take ideal pictures, especially given how dark the build is
> 
> 
> 
> Coolant will be distilled + Mayhems Pastel Red, plus however much Mayhems Deep Red I need to add to match the sleeving


Uhhh is it just me or is there no exit to that loop?? like goes in from the GPU, then out through the GPU? LOL or is it just not finished>?


----------



## LunaP

Merry Xmas guys!!!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Merry Xmas guys!!!


Same to you! It's my birthday too (xmas)


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Uhhh is it just me or is there no exit to that loop?? like goes in from the GPU, then out through the GPU? LOL or is it just not finished>?


It's a work in progress as I typed in the first line, lol

Yes, unfinished but no, the flow goes res to pump, through floor, through pedestal 240mm rad, up through both gpus, into motherboard block, into CPU block


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Same to you! It's my birthday too (xmas)


Lol happy bday !! That sucks in a way means you get all presents the same day vs split up for more







Happy bday anyways!

And for lulz I've no idea what USPS is doing anymore, called in and it says its destined here, but just looked @ the newly updated tracking info and it's going in a circle.

Overnight sucks.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thanks, and I'll be putting them in w/ the Aquaeros 6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so even better!
> I was planning on getting a res w/ a pump later on if needed, the Tube res from XSPC for now is going to be part of my 16-bit gamers theme for one side of the case, I'll probably get a thinner tube w/ pump for another section or near it or somewhere else. Hopefully they'll work together in unison, that or I'll make sure they both have the same style pump.
> 3 titans now officially
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Course I've heard people powering even larger builds w/ no issue on them so hopefully I'm good, though I will be putting in a 2ndary later on for backup purposes.
> I'd rather not risk overloading the board w/ everything else I'll be throwing at it, I think the aquaeros 6 should do fine, though originally I was looking @ a lamptron w/ the turn knobs and color changing front which was smexy as hell, also 30w per channel but only 4 channels sadly, which I still may get for future upgrades for additional RAD's, as to not overload the Aquaeros, as 32 fans + 2 pumps + w/e though I'm sure it can handle it.
> *Never heard of the controllers getting heated up but I should have good airflow hitting them so should be ok I hope.
> *
> 
> Also for my bay res should I clean it out w/ distilled? both ports are open atm, so guessing dust COULD get in. I also bought mayhems blood red dye, , do I need anything else? THe bay res came w/ silver bullet anti microbial plugs as well, should I install them or ignore it since I'm using copper/acrylic only?


it's kinda like a VRM. short sudden load isn't a big deal (within reason), but long continuous load heats it up and may cause issues - i'd probably do "zones" off the MB if I was going to do it that way - and personally, i'd probably max out at 4 fans per header - beyond that, i'd want to look up specs. a 30W per channel fan controller can run plenty of fans per channel. consider that 30W to be a continuous rating - and for basic safety/avoiding utter stupidity, don't go beyond 60W of startup load. most of the good fan controllers i've seen have heatsinks on the transistors, and that's basically what determines it's power rating (a chip rated to handle 30W generally requires a heatsink, and needs to be downrated if you're not heatsinking it).

So without knowing EXACT details of your (add in) fan controller, i'd recommend sticking to 7 or 8 fans per channel for a reasonable max. I would be very surprised to see long term issues with that setup.

For example, USA wall outlets are rated at 15A, 12A continuous on a 15A circuit, but you may see 60A+ when you turn on your vacuum if you have a good meter. Only for a very brief moment, of course, but that should give you an idea of what is often "expected" of components with a continuous duty rating.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> it's kinda like a VRM. short sudden load isn't a big deal (within reason), but long continuous load heats it up and may cause issues - i'd probably do "zones" off the MB if I was going to do it that way - and personally, i'd probably max out at 4 fans per header - beyond that, i'd want to look up specs. a 30W per channel fan controller can run plenty of fans per channel. consider that 30W to be a continuous rating - and for basic safety/avoiding utter stupidity, don't go beyond 60W of startup load. most of the good fan controllers i've seen have heatsinks on the transistors, and that's basically what determines it's power rating (a chip rated to handle 30W generally requires a heatsink, and needs to be downrated if you're not heatsinking it).
> 
> *So without knowing EXACT details of your (add in) fan controller*, i'd recommend sticking to 7 or 8 fans per channel for a reasonable max. I would be very surprised to see long term issues with that setup.


Aquaeros 6, mentioned a few times before, seems to be the best there is and can max out an insane amount.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13215/bus-259/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_6_XT_USB_Fan_Controller_Touch_Screen_Graphic_LCD_Liquid_System_Controller_w_Remote_53146.html


----------



## dervladimir

Remaining do cabel management and fix the pump

 

&#8230;after NY want to change 480 rad to 360+240

[email protected] | [email protected] boost | [email protected]


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yes Thirty-six feet of acrylic tubing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Actually its 42 feet my apologies, and If spending less than 20$ (after taxes ) is considered rich then I'm misinformed.
> 
> Either way It's my first time w/ acrylic tubing and WC to be exact so rather have extra at hand in case I undercut or decide to swap things out later or redesign.


42 feet for $20?
That is like 14 pieces of 36" (3 feet) tubing and if you bought it from Primochill it would cost 98$ or $140
Or it is 5.25 4 packs of 24" (8 feet) tube for $85 or $100

Or did you get it from an Acrylic manufacturer or something?

Also: Start loads are accounted for in the Aquaero ratings you only need to worry about running load.
Max start load is only applied if the fans is instantly sent full 12V and an Aquaero won't do that unless you tell it to for some reason.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Aquaeros 6, mentioned a few times before, seems to be the best there is and can max out an insane amount.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13215/bus-259/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_6_XT_USB_Fan_Controller_Touch_Screen_Graphic_LCD_Liquid_System_Controller_w_Remote_53146.html


Right - but I can't see it well enough to figure out power handling - I'd not be too worried with something like that anyways though. Just don't go sticking 8 deltas on each header.


----------



## Deaam




----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Nice one Deaam! Got a build log?


----------



## szeged

the build as of now, gotta order a few more bitspower angle fittings, got some spots where acrylic bends will be near impossible to get right with how tight the room is down in the bottom.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 42 feet for $20?
> That is like 14 pieces of 36" (3 feet) tubing and if you bought it from Primochill it would cost 98$ or $140
> Or it is 5.25 4 packs of 24" (8 feet) tube for $85 or $100
> 
> Or did you get it from an Acrylic manufacturer or something?
> 
> Also: Start loads are accounted for in the Aquaero ratings you only need to worry about running load.
> Max start load is only applied if the fans is instantly sent full 12V and an Aquaero won't do that unless you tell it to for some reason.


Got it from a link recommended by a few here. Tap plastics. Using phone else id link but you can google it up. Wasnt aware primo was so expensive. Also yes it was 19.60 to be exact after tax.

Edit

Here http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/clear_acrylic_tubes/141


----------



## ozzy1925

is it possible to use any aryclic fittings for plastic tube?


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is it possible to use any aryclic fittings for plastic tube?


I don't think it would be safe as crystal link/acrylic tube is immobile whereas plastic traditional tubing might wiggle its way out of a fitting


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Right - but I can't see it well enough to figure out power handling - I'd not be too worried with something like that anyways though. Just don't go sticking 8 deltas on each header.


I doubt the Aquaero 6 would have a problem with all 32 of Luna's AP-15s split between just two channels (@ just under 1 watt each, almost be able to put all 32 AP-15s in one channel). Likewise I doubt it would have any problems with 10 Deltas or more on another. That's exactly the kind of thing it's designed / marketed to be able to do. The Aquaero 6 doesn't get hot like other fan controllers (including the previous Aquaero versions). That's why it costs an arm and a leg.

Here's the video Aquacomputer put out when the Aquaero 6 was announced:


----------



## dervladimir

Guys, question is... have Laing DDC-Pumpe



powerd by molex on 12V (black/yellow) and blue - monitoring
on pic we see one contact which not in use... is it possible to make PWM?

PS: sorry if mistake topic and for my bad english


----------



## 218689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> Guys, question is... have Laing DDC-Pumpe
> 
> 
> 
> powerd by molex on 12V (black/yellow) and blue - monitoring
> on pic we see one contact which not in use... is it possible to make PWM?
> 
> PS: sorry if mistake topic and for my bad english


should be. Yellow and black is the 12v from PSU, the 2 others should be RPM monitoring and PWM controll.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> Guys, question is... have Laing DDC-Pumpe
> 
> 
> 
> powerd by molex on 12V (black/yellow) and blue - monitoring
> on pic we see one contact which not in use... is it possible to make PWM?
> 
> PS: sorry if mistake topic and for my bad english


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoid.srg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> Guys, question is... have Laing DDC-Pumpe
> 
> 
> 
> powerd by molex on 12V (black/yellow) and blue - monitoring
> on pic we see one contact which not in use... is it possible to make PWM?
> 
> PS: sorry if mistake topic and for my bad english
> 
> 
> 
> should be. Yellow and black is the 12v from PSU, the 2 others should be RPM monitoring and PWM controll.
Click to expand...

I'd be very careful trying that, and not do it on a pump I would miss if it fried it.

While it's common to use the same PCB for several variations of something, it's all about what parts are on the PCB, and how other connections on it are used that determine its suitability for a given variation.

I would doubt that the components for the PWM control circuitry would be on the PCB in a pump not intended as the PWM model.

It would be a waste of money, while having one PCB layout adaptable for all models would be a smart plan.

Darlene


----------



## dervladimir

@*zoid.srg*
@*IT Diva*
assume that the layout is they have one on similar models, but the mechanics have different ... thought someone had already asked this question ...
thanks for the answer


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Right - but I can't see it well enough to figure out power handling - I'd not be too worried with something like that anyways though. Just don't go sticking 8 deltas on each header.


I have 10x fans per channel on my Aquaero6, it's running nice & cool, & can probably handle more.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Got it from a link recommended by a few here. Tap plastics. Using phone else id link but you can google it up. Wasnt aware primo was so expensive. Also yes it was 19.60 to be exact after tax.


Yeah I thought that sounded cheap. And I only commented on the amount in the first place as assumed was much more than you needed to spend...but apparently not.


----------



## GhostDog99

Some GPU PIX for you guys

680 FTW , 780 ACX SC , 780 TI Classified

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/BF5348A6-AF8F-4C71-8CE4-194A7C74D97B.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/8A22A5DB-8C14-49F7-81A6-473584120CEC.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/71B6C4D9-1343-443E-AA95-0A9381C257AE.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Nice collection


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Some GPU PIX for you guys
> 
> 680 FTW , 780 ACX SC , 780 TI Classified
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/BF5348A6-AF8F-4C71-8CE4-194A7C74D97B.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/8A22A5DB-8C14-49F7-81A6-473584120CEC.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/71B6C4D9-1343-443E-AA95-0A9381C257AE.jpg.html


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice collection


thanks mate









I had 3 GTX 580 SC that I just sold a week ago
should of did a picture with them too


----------



## rickyman0319

what radidators works well with F12 fans?


----------



## Jetskyer

Wondering if you guys think the same;
Would this look much much better with chromed copper pipes and a nickel kryographics block?


thanks


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have 10x fans per channel on my Aquaero6, it's running nice & cool, & can probably handle more.


Ah I was gonna stick 8 per channel as per the ModMyToys for 8x 3pin -> 1 4x pin Molex. Guessing I"ll need a Molex -> 3 pin or 4pin adapter to plug it into the controller though right? I have 4 of these babies.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey gang,

I recall earlier in the week, that there were some questions regarding using air to leak test.

Naturally, I was busy at work and without access to any pics at the time, and then it slipped my mind by the time I got home.

Anyway, I made up a little Rube Goldberg contraption that's worked fine for a long time now, and I just went and got all fancy and made a stand for it so it's a little easier to use.

I made it from scrap acrylic, and a few items from McMaster Carr and the local Ace hardware or plumbing supply, not sure anymore which it actually was . . . .

To make one like it, I'll list the McMaster part numbers:

You'll basically need a pair of rather inexpensive gages, and an inexpensive regulator.

I chose a reg that only adjusts up to 25 psi max, to make it almost impossible to over pressure your system during a test.

The gages are 0 to 30 psi range, so you have a nicely spread out view of the increments.

You'll also need a 1/4"npt ball valve from the hardware or plumbing store, and some quick connects like for small air compressor accessories.

A 1/8 npt Schrader valve is also handy, though my setup still has the 1/8 npt plug from when I "borrowed" the Schrader for something else.

You could use a 1/4npt Schrader and not have to have both a 1/8 and 1/4 npt tap.

Here's the McMaster numbers with approximate prices:
You'll still need a few nipples and a 90, I think I scrounged most of my small parts from one of these accessory kits:

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1336671

Small gage for the regulator 3846K431 0-30 $12
Larger gage 3846K312 0-30 $12
Regulator 6746K32 0-25 $27

Schrader valve 1/8 NPT 8063K31 $4
Schrader valve 1/4 NPT 8063K38 $4

Ball valve 47865K21 $9

Everything should be pretty self explanatory, but;

Drill in from one end with a 11.8mm bit for the G1/4 fitting, and from the other end with a 7/16" bit for the 1/4 NPT fitting.

Drill down from the top with a 7/16" bit for the 1/4 npt gage port

Drill up from the bottom for your Schrader if you want to use one

Drill up from the bottom for additional G1/4 ports if you want them.

Tap drill for 1/4 NPT is 7/16"

Tap drill for 1/8 NPT is 21/64" or can use 11/32"

Tap drill for G1/4 is 11.8mm

I would think if someone stated making these little manifolds for guys who want to have an air tester, they could sell a bunch of them, as it's the hardest part of the system.







Darlene


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Wondering if you guys think the same;
> Would this look much much better with chromed copper pipes and a nickel kryographics block?
> 
> 
> thanks


The copper makes it look interesting, adds some color and depth to it. If everything was silver / black, it would be very bland.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The copper makes it look interesting, adds some color and depth to it. If everything was silver / black, it would be very bland.


Very true, thanks for your input!
Was thinking about replacing all the copper stop-fittings of the alpha cool rads with black nickel ones, but using the supplied copper ones would probably look lots of good with the copper tubing and gpu-block.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The copper makes it look interesting, adds some color and depth to it. If everything was silver / black, it would be very bland.


I disagree completely. Unless you are using copper colour everywhere (no silver or bare aluminum). Then copper shouldn't be used.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The copper makes it look interesting, adds some color and depth to it. If everything was silver / black, it would be very bland.
> 
> 
> 
> I disagree completely. Unless you are using copper colour everywhere (no silver or bare aluminum). Then copper shouldn't be used.
Click to expand...

Using 2 colors = very boring.

Black is the base, silver is primary with copper accents.

The amount of copper is vital, most I would do is tubing / blocks (both cpu / gpu). You can't get good copper RAM, so ignore that. Plus it'd be a bit much.

Having silver/black is just simply dull and generic.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I recall earlier in the week, that there were some questions regarding using air to leak test.
> 
> Naturally, I was busy at work and without access to any pics at the time, and then it slipped my mind by the time I got home.
> 
> Anyway, I made up a little Rube Goldberg contraption that's worked fine for a long time now,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and I just went and got all fancy and made a stand for it so it's a little easier to use.
> 
> I made it from scrap acrylic, and a few items from McMaster Carr and the local Ace hardware or plumbing supply, not sure anymore which it actually was . . . .
> 
> To make one like it, I'll list the McMaster part numbers:
> 
> You'll basically need a pair of rather inexpensive gages, and an inexpensive regulator.
> 
> I chose a reg that only adjusts up to 25 psi max, to make it almost impossible to over pressure your system during a test.
> 
> The gages are 0 to 30 psi range, so you have a nicely spread out view of the increments.
> 
> You'll also need a 1/4"npt ball valve from the hardware or plumbing store, and some quick connects like for small air compressor accessories.
> 
> A 1/8 npt Schrader valve is also handy, though my setup still has the 1/8 npt plug from when I "borrowed" the Schrader for something else.
> 
> You could use a 1/4npt Schrader and not have to have both a 1/8 and 1/4 npt tap.
> 
> Here's the McMaster numbers with approximate prices:
> You'll still need a few nipples and a 90, I think I scrounged most of my small parts from one of these accessory kits:
> 
> http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1336671
> 
> Small gage for the regulator 3846K431 0-30 $12
> Larger gage 3846K312 0-30 $12
> Regulator 6746K32 0-25 $27
> 
> Schrader valve 1/8 NPT 8063K31 $4
> Schrader valve 1/4 NPT 8063K38 $4
> 
> Ball valve 47865K21 $9
> 
> Everything should be pretty self explanatory, but;
> 
> Drill in from one end with a 11.8mm bit for the G1/4 fitting, and from the other end with a 7/16" bit for the 1/4 NPT fitting.
> 
> Drill down from the top with a 7/16" bit for the 1/4 npt gage port
> 
> Drill up from the bottom for your Schrader if you want to use one
> 
> Drill up from the bottom for additional G1/4 ports if you want them.
> 
> Tap drill for 1/4 NPT is 7/16"
> 
> Tap drill for 1/8 NPT is 21/64" or can use 11/32"
> 
> Tap drill for G1/4 is 11.8mm
> 
> I would think if someone stated making these little manifolds for guys who want to have an air tester, they could sell a bunch of them, as it's the hardest part of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Thank you!


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The copper makes it look interesting, adds some color and depth to it. If everything was silver / black, it would be very bland.


I agree, the copper provides a nice accent for the silver/chrome.

But it's a very personal decision, as illustrated below:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I disagree completely. Unless you are using copper colour everywhere (no silver or bare aluminum). Then copper shouldn't be used.


----------



## skupples

Here I thought red & black was generic.









My brother got me one of those 16 foot RGB & W roles of LED for x-mas. It has an un-adapted end, I think I may be able to mod it for molex + pwm, then hook it to the A6XT.


----------



## jeffblute

Thanks to another OC member I should have a 780 arriving in the next few days









I got a question for the rest of you H20 fans, have any of you guys/gals used one of these blocks yet?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22285/ex-blc-1591/Alphacool_NexXxoS_NVXP_Nvidia_GTX780_Titan_-_Polished_Stainless_Steel_-_Clear_11083.html?tl=g30c311s1996


----------



## skupples

Iv'e not used them, but they look crappy. Just my opinion based off of photos though. The entire block is acrylic, minus the contact points. That just screams low quality to me. Alphacool should stick to radiators.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e not used them, but they look crappy. Just my opinion based off of photos though. The entire block is acrylic, minus the contact points. That just screams low quality to me. Alphacool should stick to radiators.


^^^^^^^^^ This!!!!


----------



## SeeThruHead

No copper would look better.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Using 2 colors = very boring.
> 
> Black is the base, silver is primary with copper accents.
> 
> The amount of copper is vital, most I would do is tubing / blocks (both cpu / gpu). You can't get good copper RAM, so ignore that. Plus it'd be a bit much.
> 
> Having silver/black is just simply dull and generic.


This. Just black and chrome would be another monochrome build. I love the copper accents. It's not too much copper, but just enough.


----------



## skupples

I <3 my monochrome build, and I don't see many of them, though I don't spend much time in build log thread.


----------



## LunaP

whoops, wrong thread.

Also only finding the Intel builds or case MODS vs Labs builds sections so just seeing which I need to put my Build log into. For my TH10


----------



## brandon6199

Hey guys,

Sorry for the low quality images. My iPhone 5S doesn't like low-light conditions, but here is my build as it currently stands right now.









My second GTX 780 Ti is sitting in my closet collecting dust right now







I'm waiting for EK to send me a replacement acrylic top. The one I have cracked and started to leak as I was leak testing it, so I'm getting by with just a single GTX 780 Ti right now.






Every time I step into my closet I almost want to shed a tear since this beautiful thing isn't being used...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> This. Just black and chrome would be another monochrome build. I love the copper accents. It's not too much copper, but just enough.


He can always add more colour w/ sleeving. Copper IMO just looks cheap unless it polished to a mirror shine AND clear coated. Which also should be polished.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I <3 my monochrome build, and I don't see many of them, though I don't spend much time in build log thread.


Werd. I liked my monochrome build as well. It isn't as if they are all that common. At least not completely monochrome.

Is replying on OCN laggy as hell for everyone else this evening?


----------



## lowfat

@B NEGATIVE no more chewed motherboard tray.


----------



## M3TAl

Jetplate J3(EK Supremacy) best for an 8350? Or maybe J4 for LGA-2011 is better?


----------



## WebsterXC

Have a friend at work who's Canadian and is really into the Maple Leafs. Thought I'd give him a personilzed present. Pretty noobish job though!

First time with the engraver bit:


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Have a friend at work who's Canadian and is really into the Maple Leafs. Thought I'd give him a personilzed present. Pretty noobish job though!
> 
> First time with the engraver bit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol I don't know what to say to that...


----------



## VSG

Oh beautiful. Reminds me of the Canada special CPU block from Dazmode: http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_special_edition_cpu_block/


----------



## skupples

You are a very kind soul.


----------



## szeged

first draft of acrylic done - will go back and fix some that are slightly off/messed up etc etc tomorrow


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> first draft of acrylic done - will go back and fix some that are slightly off/messed up etc etc tomorrow
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice work there...


----------



## lowfat

A few of the bends a re a few degrees off but most look good.


----------



## LunaP

Just curious is there any difference between mainsteam acrylic tube from places like tap plastics vs primo chills or is it just a price diff ?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just curious is there any difference between mainsteam acrylic tube from places like tap plastics vs primo chills or is it just a price diff ?


I bought a 4 pack of 24" from PPCS of the Primochill when it first came out, then about 2 weeks ago bought some from www.mcmaster.com And to my eyes, it looks exactly the same, dimensions are identical (ID/OD) and they felt the same while working with the tube. The difference, I paid 20$ for the Primochill for 8 feet, I paid 24$ at McMaster/Carr for 36 feet.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I bought a 4 pack of 24" from PPCS of the Primochill when it first came out, then about 2 weeks ago bought some from www.mcmaster.com And to my eyes, it looks exactly the same, dimensions are identical (ID/OD) and they felt the same while working with the tube. The difference, I paid 20$ for the Primochill for 8 feet, I paid 24$ at McMaster/Carr for 36 feet.


Ahh alright apprecate it ! +1


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> first draft of acrylic done - will go back and fix some that are slightly off/messed up etc etc tomorrow


Looks very nice. Love the clean look.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I disagree completely. Unless you are using copper colour everywhere (no silver or bare aluminum). Then copper shouldn't be used.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Using 2 colors = very boring.
> 
> Black is the base, silver is primary with copper accents.
> 
> The amount of copper is vital, most I would do is tubing / blocks (both cpu / gpu). You can't get good copper RAM, so ignore that. Plus it'd be a bit much.
> 
> Having silver/black is just simply dull and generic.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I agree, the copper provides a nice accent for the silver/chrome.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> This. Just black and chrome would be another monochrome build. I love the copper accents. It's not too much copper, but just enough.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> He can always add more colour w/ sleeving. Colour IMO just looks cheap unless it polished to a mirror shine AND clear coated. Which also should be polished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Werd. I liked my monochrome build as well. It isn't as if they are all that common. At least not completely monochrome.


Thanks for the input guys! Isn't making the decision any easier but it's great to know what you guys think.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A few of the bends a re a few degrees off but most look good.


yeah, my first time doing acrylic so i was making mistakes left and right







i would have waited to post finalized pics of perfected bends but i ran out of tubing lol, ordering some more in the morning, hope it goes better this time









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Looks very nice. Love the clean look.


thanks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just curious is there any difference between mainsteam acrylic tube from places like tap plastics vs primo chills or is it just a price diff ?
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a 4 pack of 24" from PPCS of the Primochill when it first came out, then about 2 weeks ago bought some from www.mcmaster.com And to my eyes, it looks exactly the same, dimensions are identical (ID/OD) and they felt the same while working with the tube. The difference, I paid 20$ for the Primochill for 8 feet, I paid 24$ at McMaster/Carr for 36 feet.
Click to expand...

I did similar, except I've got 2 of the 4-packs of primochill tubes and bought two 6' pieces from mcmaster-carr to practice with. I also bought 3' of the 9mm buna-m o-ring cord from mcmaster-carr too (part # 9679K27) as it works a lot better than primochill's hollow bending cord does (hat tip to IT Diva for that info).

The main difference I notice is primochill's tubes are available in a variety of colors (I got uv blue that's basically clear until hit with a uv light) and the tubing from acrylic distributors only seem to come in clear. I'm not a fan of using any dyes or coolants in my loops so colored tubing was the main selling point for me. Also, though 12' of the 1/2 tube was only $7.38 and the bending cord $4.14 for a total together of $11.52, the shipping mcmaster-carr charged was more than $20, so it didn't come out to be all that cheap in the end.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE no more chewed motherboard tray.


Like......like..like...........likelikelikelike
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just curious is there any difference between mainsteam acrylic tube from places like tap plastics vs primo chills or is it just a price diff ?


Cheap tube has inconsistant dimensions,E22 and Monsoon have taken great care with this aspect,its one of the things I insisted on when I was asked for my input. This is why Primochill require former modification and lube because of this inconsistancy...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [...] Cheap tube has inconsistant dimensions,E22 and Monsoon have taken great care with this aspect,its one of the things I insisted on when I was asked for my input. This is why Primochill require former modification and lube because of this inconsistancy...


This is true both with the Primochill and the stuff I got from mcmaster-carr, but the tubing thickness inconsistencies I've noticed so far have been very slight, and they only seem to affect the I.D. of the tube, not the O.D. so how they fit in Primochill's compression fittings has been unaffected. The main issue, the only time I've noticed it, is when the bending cord doesn't fit as easily/nicely as it should in some parts.


----------



## KostVouts

Corsair SP 120 High Performance

Love them!!!!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah, my first time doing acrylic so i was making mistakes left and right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i would have waited to post finalized pics of perfected bends but i ran out of tubing lol, ordering some more in the morning, hope it goes better this time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Don't worry man it's looking great








You'll get the hang out it! Nice drain plan too! Love those bitspower mini-valves


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Anyone here with a good amount of skill in a 3D program to help me design a future case mod featuring the CM Storm Trooper?

Pm me if you have the skillz and wanna help


----------



## JottaD

Build log is finished


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Anyone here with a good amount of skill in a 3D program to help me design a future case mod featuring the CM Storm Trooper?
> 
> Pm me if you have the skillz and wanna help


PM sent


----------



## B NEGATIVE

XSPC RXv3.

















Looks really good,split fin and slightly thinner than the RX we all know.


----------



## stickg1

B neg, are those available at retailers yet, and at what price point?


----------



## Maximus Knight

http://www.xs-pc.com/blog/2013/12/rx360-v3-prototype-preview


----------



## luciddreamer124

Looks good. Wouldn't have minded seeing a bleed screw on the other end.


----------



## ccRicers

AX series still looks sleeker









What is the FPI difference between the AX and RX? It looks like the RX series has more fins and needs more static pressure to push air through.


----------



## fast_fate

After I sold the heart and soul of the Supercharged








and bought an old budget board with locked 2600








I felt I owed it something back.
So I busted out some 10 x 14 acrylic and compressions to liven it up a bit.
bends aren't bang on - I hate having bends where the radius doesn't get to finish and another has to be started.
Ended up with a bit of freehand forming from CPU to RAM










Spoiler: Before - without the GPU - testing and trying to remove all things Asus from the SSD






and Now








 
 


Spoiler: dark room with just case light on







EDIT - S'pose I should put the fan back on the rear rad


----------



## szeged

looks great! wish i could freehand bends like that







last one i tried to freeform ended up looking like a flaccid.......


----------



## Ragsters

Planning to purchase a white ax480 but will hold off if these new XSPC rads come out in white. Any word on this?


----------



## Striker36

so I havnt really had a chance to slog through the last 50 pages or so of this thread thanks to work and the holiday and all that so forgive me if this has been asked recently but I'm FINALLY starting to buy components for my Monolith build and im looking at fans for an XSPC 360 and XSPC 420. i plan to be running push+pull on these and was wondering if these are any good at all. I see lots of good things about them but with the price tag I don't want to screw my self over

im thinking of grabbing 6 of these for the 420
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10215/fan-659/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PK-3_140mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_Fan_-_1700_RPM_-_27_dBA.html

and 6 of these for the 360
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10212/fan-656/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PL-2_120mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_Fan_-_1400_RPM_-_20_dBA.html

thanks guys!


----------



## nappy

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/qibx.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/vn0f.jpg/


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nappy*
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/qibx.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/vn0f.jpg/


Ahhh, Medusa!


----------



## VSG

Seriously! The first picture ended up being a succubus of sorts


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Ahhh, Medusa!


I was thinking more the Flying Spaghetti Monster.

J/k nappy









Are you mounting both of those 420s (360s?) to hang off the back of the case?


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KostVouts*
> 
> Corsair SP 120 High Performance
> 
> Love them!!!!


That seems like a sketchy place for your res.(on your PSU?)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Missis got a new point and shoot....



And I REALLY need to dust out....


----------



## nappy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I was thinking more the Flying Spaghetti Monster.
> 
> J/k nappy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you mounting both of those 420s (360s?) to hang off the back of the case?


Yea i'm using a koolance bracket . I need to shorten my tubings i know =[


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> After I sold the heart and soul of the Supercharged
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and bought an old budget board with locked 2600
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I owed it something back.
> So I busted out some 10 x 14 acrylic and compressions to liven it up a bit.
> bends aren't bang on - I hate having bends where the radius doesn't get to finish and another has to be started.
> Ended up with a bit of freehand forming from CPU to RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before - without the GPU - testing and trying to remove all things Asus from the SSD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and Now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: dark room with just case light on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT - S'pose I should put the fan back on the rear rad


Hi if you don't mind me asking,

What type of mixture did you use to get that color fluid? Thanks...


----------



## stickg1

So yeah, I paid this dude on another forum $50 for what I thought was 14x 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD Koolance black compressions. But this is what I got, significantly more than what I paid for, which is nice, but the 14x black koolance fittings are actually 1/2" ID / 5/8" OD. Then some of this stuff I don't even know what it is. Would any of the WC Guru's here be willing to tell me via PM what exactly I have? I'm thinking I should keep the 5/8" OD compressions because I have the most matching pieces of that size. Not enough to do my entire loop, but it's a great start. Then there's a hodge-podge of BP, Koolance, and EVGA 1/2" x 3/4" compressions and QDC's. (some of the BP chromes have never been used it looks like)

I should probably just start a thread for this, B-Neg sorry in advance, I'm a little excited and overwhelmed though and wanted to share.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So yeah, I paid this dude on another forum $50 for what I thought was 14x 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD Koolance black compressions. But this is what I got, significantly more than what I paid for, which is nice, but the 14x black koolance fittings are actually 1/2" ID / 5/8" OD. Then some of this stuff I don't even know what it is. Would any of the WC Guru's here be willing to tell me via PM what exactly I have? I'm thinking I should keep the 5/8" OD compressions because I have the most matching pieces of that size. Not enough to do my entire loop, but it's a great start. Then there's a hodge-podge of BP, Koolance, and EVGA 1/2" x 3/4" compressions and QDC's. (some of the BP chromes have never been used it looks like)
> 
> I should probably just start a thread for this, B-Neg sorry in advance, I'm a little excited and overwhelmed though and wanted to share.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


not to shabby for $50.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> not to shabby for $50.


That's what I'm saying! I'm pretty pumped, I'm just not sure what to keep/use and what to pass on the to the next budget watercooling enthusiast.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> [...]
> 
> [...]


Bitspower Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe
Bitspower mini valve
Inline Flow Indicator / Filter (2)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I did similar, except I've got 2 of the 4-packs of primochill tubes and bought two 6' pieces from mcmaster-carr to practice with. I also bought 3' of the 9mm buna-m o-ring cord from mcmaster-carr too (part # 9679K27) as it works a lot better than primochill's hollow bending cord does (hat tip to IT Diva for that info).
> 
> The main difference I notice is primochill's tubes are available in a variety of colors (I got uv blue that's basically clear until hit with a uv light) and the tubing from acrylic distributors only seem to come in clear. I'm not a fan of using any dyes or coolants in my loops so colored tubing was the main selling point for me. Also, though 12' of the 1/2 tube was only $7.38 and the bending cord $4.14 for a total together of $11.52, the shipping mcmaster-carr charged was more than $20, so it didn't come out to be all that cheap in the end.


Well if it ends up I need them then I've no issue buying them, I've already bought ALL the expensive toys, its just the little things now like extra fittings etc. Gonna probably go to Fry's today or tomorrow for some Molex connectors / converters and some additional sleeving and some LED AF Fans.

Didn't hear back from anyone about where the case labs build log forum (only found Intel and Case Mods builds) is so I"m just gonna stick mine in the Case Mods build log forum since I see alot of CL builds in there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Like......like..like...........likelikelikelike
> Cheap tube has inconsistant dimensions,E22 and Monsoon have taken great care with this aspect,its one of the things I insisted on when I was asked for my input. This is why Primochill require former modification and lube because of this inconsistancy...


How about these though?

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/clear_acrylic_tubes/141


----------



## Mr240sx

I'm a total newbie to water cooling, as I've never done it and only researched it. I'm planning a build with a simple CPU loop (maybe a GPU loop if i save my pennies!) yet I'm still looking for a custom look. I want fittings with an anodized look to them. After finding out mixing aluminum and copper in a loop isn't good, I'm afraid I won't be able to get the look I'd like to achieve. Is there a way to strip brass fittings and chemically color them like anodizing? I've found paint that looks similar, but I'm not sure how long paint would last, or if paint even sticks to brass well. (I understand the fittings won't be touched constantly, but I'd still like a durable finish.)

Thanks in advance anyone.


----------



## Belial

^ Awesome question.I'd love to anondize fittings and such but Im only aware of anondizing aluminum.

Is it okay to use the top of a tube res as inlet (just keep water level above pump, before pump)?

I wasnt sure if I could just pour water up to the brim with the cap off and then put it back on (rotary fitting), or if i somehow needed to keep the inlet exit under water (ie use a tube inside res to under water level), or if maybe itd be a good idea to have a long length of dead end tube on the bottom of the res for filling (and bleeding?). I was curious how bleeding and filling would work out if I did this, it'd just look a lot better to use the top as an inlet.

thanks.


----------



## pc-illiterate

stick, not 1 single piece of paper there says 3/8x1/2...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr240sx*
> 
> I'm a total newbie to water cooling, as I've never done it and only researched it. I'm planning a build with a simple CPU loop (maybe a GPU loop if i save my pennies!) yet I'm still looking for a custom look. I want fittings with an anodized look to them. After finding out mixing aluminum and copper in a loop isn't good, I'm afraid I won't be able to get the look I'd like to achieve. Is there a way to strip brass fittings and chemically color them like anodizing? I've found paint that looks similar, but I'm not sure how long paint would last, or if paint even sticks to brass well. (I understand the fittings won't be touched constantly, but I'd still like a durable finish.)
> 
> Thanks in advance anyone.


Primochill fittings are anodised. Only the outer part that does not contact water is aluminium, the inner is standard brass.

http://www.primochill.com/product/primochill-ghost-compression-fittings-for-flexible-tubing-knurled-grip-2/


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ^ Awesome question.I'd love to anondize fittings and such but Im only aware of anondizing aluminum.
> 
> Is it okay to use the top of a tube res as inlet (just keep water level above pump, before pump)?
> 
> I wasnt sure if I could just pour water up to the brim with the cap off and then put it back on (rotary fitting), or if i somehow needed to keep the inlet exit under water (ie use a tube inside res to under water level), or if maybe itd be a good idea to have a long length of dead end tube on the bottom of the res for filling (and bleeding?). I was curious how bleeding and filling would work out if I did this, it'd just look a lot better to use the top as an inlet.
> 
> thanks.


Did you even read the PM's you were sent?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Wow 50 bucks for all dat..i paid close to 30 bucks for the same matte black mini valve at MC Tustin ._. Well 24.99 lol


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Missis got a new point and shoot....
> And I REALLY need to dust out....


If that's dusty as all sin.... I refuse to show you the front of my HAF 932!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and Now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are quite the sexy bends!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So yeah, I paid this dude on another forum $50 for what I thought was 14x 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD Koolance black compressions. But this is what I got, significantly more than what I paid for, which is nice, but the 14x black koolance fittings are actually 1/2" ID / 5/8" OD. Then some of this stuff I don't even know what it is. Would any of the WC Guru's here be willing to tell me via PM what exactly I have? I'm thinking I should keep the 5/8" OD compressions because I have the most matching pieces of that size. Not enough to do my entire loop, but it's a great start. Then there's a hodge-podge of BP, Koolance, and EVGA 1/2" x 3/4" compressions and QDC's. (some of the BP chromes have never been used it looks like)
> 
> I should probably just start a thread for this, B-Neg sorry in advance, I'm a little excited and overwhelmed though and wanted to share.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like you got an EK DDC top in there. Some of the bitspower 90 degree fittings are triple rotary. Real nice haul for $50


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So yeah, I paid this dude on another forum $50 for what I thought was 14x 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD Koolance black compressions. But this is what I got, significantly more than what I paid for, which is nice, but the 14x black koolance fittings are actually 1/2" ID / 5/8" OD. Then some of this stuff I don't even know what it is. Would any of the WC Guru's here be willing to tell me via PM what exactly I have? I'm thinking I should keep the 5/8" OD compressions because I have the most matching pieces of that size. Not enough to do my entire loop, but it's a great start. Then there's a hodge-podge of BP, Koolance, and EVGA 1/2" x 3/4" compressions and QDC's. (some of the BP chromes have never been used it looks like)
> 
> I should probably just start a thread for this, B-Neg sorry in advance, I'm a little excited and overwhelmed though and wanted to share.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Bitspower Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe
> Bitspower mini valve
> Inline Flow Indicator / Filter (2)


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> stick, not 1 single piece of paper there says 3/8x1/2...


Yeah I know, I made those pieces of paper. I used spare tubing from previous builds to gauge the size of the fittings and sorted them accordingly. I was told I was getting 3/8" ID compressions and "some extras." I just didn't realize "some extras" was over $100 worth of the hotness..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Wow 50 bucks for all dat..i paid close to 30 bucks for the same matte black mini valve at MC Tustin ._. Well 24.99 lol


To be fair, the handle on my mini-valve is partially broken








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Looks like you got an EK DDC top in there. Some of the bitspower 90 degree fittings are triple rotary. Real nice haul for $50


Thanks!
_____________________________________________________________________________________

Okay, so I ended up using all the 3/4" OD fittings (even though half are black and half are chrome). Mostly because I had about 2ft of leftover Advance LRT in that size from a couple months ago when I was messing around on a different project. So I basically just threw a loop together in the last 4 hours. I know it looks like crap but I fear you underestimate how impatient I am, waiting until next Wednesday pretty much wasn't an option. I had to gets my wares wet, like ASAP. So this is what I came up with....





I really like how the shiny BP fittings look when they reflect my LEDs. So the new plan is to sell all the other fittings and buy a bunch of new BP shiny's. I'll go ahead and get more tubing, I didn't use one of my radiators because I can't find a spot for it, but I think I will get another 120mm for the bottom. Although my temps are spectacular as is. My EK reservoir tube is pretty foggy, probably get a new one of those, and maybe some Yellow Pastel coolant.

I know this is an eyesore for some of you, but I hope others will appreciate how ghetto fabulous my little Frankenstein piece is, and understand that it is a "working" work in progress!

Thanks for looking!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hi if you don't mind me asking,
> 
> 
> What type of mixture did you use to get that color fluid? Thanks...


Koolance LIQ-702 Liquid Coolant


----------



## LunaP

All I need is distilled + mayhems dye for colored fluid for acrylic tubing right? or do I need any additional additives?


----------



## M3TAl

Got a question. Does it make any difference for the orientation of the inlet on a Jingway pump (Phobya DC12 , EK-DCP, DD-CPX Pro, etc)? Will having the intake on the top matter at all?

Turns out I can't put this Jingway pump where I had planned to, moving somewhere different. Taking me forever to put this loop together.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> All I need is distilled + mayhems dye for colored fluid for acrylic tubing right? or do I need any additional additives?


If the Mayhems dye has corrosion protection and biocide in it, you shouldn't need anything else.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> All I need is distilled + mayhems dye for colored fluid for acrylic tubing right? or do I need any additional additives?


At the very least you'll want some sort of a biocide, so it depends on which Mayhems product you plan on using.

Mayhems dyes are just a dye, so you'd at least need to add a biocide like PT_Nuke / Dead Water / Mayhems Biocide Extreme / etc.

Mayhems Pastel line includes a biocide & anti-corrosive.

Mayhems X1 line of coolants have biological and anticorrosives.

Mayhems Aurora line shouldn't be used long-term, and even in the short term only in simple loops where the 'pearl' is unlikely to clog (no bay res, no drain line, etc)

Now, how effective / problem-free are Mayhems' products. I'm not going to get into that. I've never used any of them myself. I prefer just distilled & a biocide, but that's just me.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Got a question. Does it make any difference for the orientation of the inlet on a Jingway pump (Phobya DC12 , EK-DCP, DD-CPX Pro, etc)? Will having the intake on the top matter at all?
> 
> Turns out I can't put this Jingway pump where I had planned to, moving somewhere different. Taking me forever to put this loop together.


It most definitely will matter.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> At the very least you'll want some sort of a biocide, so it depends on which Mayhems product you plan on using.
> 
> Mayhems dyes are just a dye, so you'd at least need to add a biocide like PT_Nuke / Dead Water / Mayhems Biocide Extreme / etc.
> 
> Mayhems Pastel line includes a biocide & anti-corrosive.
> 
> Mayhems X1 line of coolants have biological and anticorrosives.
> 
> Mayhems Aurora line shouldn't be used long-term, and even in the short term only in simple loops where the 'pearl' is unlikely to clog (no bay res, no drain line, etc)
> 
> Now, how effective / problem-free are Mayhems' products. I'm not going to get into that. I've never used any of them myself. I prefer just distilled & a biocide, but that's just me.


ahh its just a small bottle saying Mayhems 15ml Deep red, so guessing just the dye, though not sure which series its part of. Any links in particular for specific branding of Mayhems since I'm choosing their dyes. Gonna use Distilled from the store. Got a Gallon atm.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ahh its just a small bottle saying Mayhems 15ml Deep red, so guessing just the dye, though not sure which series its part of. Any links in particular for specific branding of Mayhems since I'm choosing their dyes. Gonna use Distilled from the store. Got a Gallon atm.


At the very least you'll need some form of biological control to add to the dye. Either a biocide like I mentioned above or a silver kill coil.

http://www.amazon.com/Petras-Tech-Nuke-Concentrated-Biocide/dp/B008EGYJ54/
http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coils-Antimicrobial-999-Strip/dp/B00A66HMRC/

One or the other, or a similar product.


----------



## rickyman0319

for example I have an UT60 (240) on loop and I want to add a 3x120. Do I have to be UT60 radiator or it can like XT45 or ST30? will it be any difference in temp on gpu and cpu if I put either ST30 or XT45 radiator?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Got a question. Does it make any difference for the orientation of the inlet on a Jingway pump (Phobya DC12 , EK-DCP, DD-CPX Pro, etc)? Will having the intake on the top matter at all?
> 
> Turns out I can't put this Jingway pump where I had planned to, moving somewhere different. Taking me forever to put this loop together.


as long as you have it 1 of the 2 ways you pictured, it will be fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> for example I have an UT60 (240) on loop and I want to add a 3x120. Do I have to be UT60 radiator or it can like XT45 or ST30? will it be any difference in temp on gpu and cpu if I put either ST30 or XT45 radiator?


you can use whatever rads you want.


----------



## ozzy1925

if i buy a bitspower male/female fitting (G1/4)like this:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27393
can i either use acrylic fitting and compression fitting with it?İ
What i mean is: i will start with plastic tubing but may be in future i can upgrade my loop to acrylic fitting so only changing the head part is possibe?


----------



## rickyman0319

can x2 750 handle it or not?

cpu block
gpu block
2 x 240 (UT60) & (ST30)


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It most definitely will matter.


I meant as far as noise goes, efficiency of the pump, or if it will damage it or anything. The Jingway is just a 2nd pump for extra flow and pressure, forgot that part. Using an XSPC x20 750 to initially fill the loop.


----------



## Roxycon

@rickyman0319 Whats a 750?

And i dont mean to be rude but you should open a thread since you got so many questions, im feeling a little sorry for you since not everyone of them get answered


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> if i buy a bitspower male/female fitting (G1/4)like this:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27393
> can i either use acrylic fitting and compression fitting with it?İ
> What i mean is: i will start with plastic tubing but may be in future i can upgrade my loop to acrylic fitting so only changing the head part is possibe?


Yes, just make sure whatever fitting you are screwing into it has threads that are 5mm long or shorter, since bitspowers fittings use a 5mm length.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Got a question. Does it make any difference for the orientation of the inlet on a Jingway pump (Phobya DC12 , EK-DCP, DD-CPX Pro, etc)? Will having the intake on the top matter at all?
> 
> Turns out I can't put this Jingway pump where I had planned to, moving somewhere different. Taking me forever to put this loop together.


Either one of those ways is fine. You can mount the pump any way you want. Although filling it initially will be hard if the waters not gravity fed.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Got a question. Does it make any difference for the orientation of the inlet on a Jingway pump (Phobya DC12 , EK-DCP, DD-CPX Pro, etc)? Will having the intake on the top matter at all?
> 
> Turns out I can't put this Jingway pump where I had planned to, moving somewhere different. Taking me forever to put this loop together.


It shouldn't matter as long as you reservoir or the fluid in the reservoir is above the inlet to the pump


----------



## Mr240sx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Primochill fittings are anodised. Only the outer part that does not contact water is aluminium, the inner is standard brass.
> 
> http://www.primochill.com/product/primochill-ghost-compression-fittings-for-flexible-tubing-knurled-grip-2/


Do they have fittings that work with acrylic tubing?


----------



## M3TAl

Okay thanks guys. It's a secondary pump. The initial filling will be using a XSPC X20 750, the res/pump combo that so many people have problems with. Got it super cheap used... made sure it works, which it does, hopefully it doesn't have problems in the future.

Jingway was used too. Hopefully I can finish this loop tonight. It's such a hodgepodge of random bits and pieces bit I'm proud of it.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> first draft of acrylic done - will go back and fix some that are slightly off/messed up etc etc tomorrow
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good to me man! Don't be so hard on yourself lol. How are you making your bends? Are you using a bending kit with the silicone insert?


----------



## Roxycon

I wonder why no (major ones at least) brands have made acrylic fittings to go with acrylic blocks and acrylic tubing


----------



## rickyman0319

I meant can I use this pump with the following stuff ( gpu wb,cpu wb, 2 rad) without breaking? or it will?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr240sx*
> 
> Do they have fittings that work with acrylic tubing?


Yes, Primochill has it's own line of 1/2" Acrylic tubing and rigid acrylic compression fittings in a couple styles (ghost & revolver straight & revolver diamond knurled)

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c633/s2021/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Rigid_Acrylic-12_OD_Rigid_Compression-Page1.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr240sx*
> 
> Do they have fittings that work with acrylic tubing?


Yes, just do a search for Primochill acrylic compression fittings.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Looks good to me man! Don't be so hard on yourself lol. How are you making your bends? Are you using a bending kit with the silicone insert?


thanks







yeah mostly used the bending kit but a few of the bends i just free handed because i just couldnt picture it in my head how to go with the bending kit so i ended up doing it by hand lol, turned out fine, slightly off a bit but still mostly usable


----------



## DaftFully17

this thread has so much win in it, i regret buying a closed loop. oh well


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah mostly used the bending kit but a few of the bends i just free handed because i just couldnt picture it in my head how to go with the bending kit so i ended up doing it by hand lol, turned out fine, slightly off a bit but still mostly usable


Okay cool. I was wondering if the kit is necessary to have. I'm sure it'd make things much easier, especially for a first timer (me). I bought two 4 packs of 24" Primochill acrylic for a little screw up headroom.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Okay cool. I was wondering if the kit is necessary to have. I'm sure it'd make things much easier, especially for a first timer (me). I bought two 4 packs of 24" Primochill acrylic for a little screw up headroom.


the kit definitely helped thats for sure


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the kit definitely helped thats for sure


I was hoping you'd say "no that kit thing is crap" lol. This water cooling business is getting expensive. I may just wait and order one of them kit thingies.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaftFully17*
> 
> this thread has so much win in it, i regret buying a closed loop. oh well


I know what you mean. I was doing good until I stumbled across site, let alone this thread. Now I'm $$$ deep into this pc/water cooling biz and haven't even got wet yet.


----------



## dervladimir

Ready&#8230; till NY no more changes












Happy New Year and Merry Christmas


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah mostly used the bending kit but a few of the bends i just free handed because i just couldnt picture it in my head how to go with the bending kit so i ended up doing it by hand lol, turned out fine, slightly off a bit but still mostly usable


ActuallY I didnt even check mine yet does it come with a silicone insert or can I pick one up at home depot vs online?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I was hoping you'd say "no that kit thing is crap" lol. This water cooling business is getting expensive. I may just wait and order one of them kit thingies.


Very true I have my parts list in my build log and u can see how much ive spent so far







it can be rewarding though


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ActuallY I didnt even check mine yet does it come with a silicone insert or can I pick one up at home depot vs online?


it comes with a silicon insert, i wish it was a foot longer, but that probably wouldnt be a problem for someone doing runs shorter than 3 foot lengths lol.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ^ Awesome question.I'd love to anondize fittings and such but Im only aware of anondizing aluminum.
> 
> Is it okay to use the top of a tube res as inlet (just keep water level above pump, before pump)?
> 
> I wasnt sure if I could just pour water up to the brim with the cap off and then put it back on (rotary fitting), or if i somehow needed to keep the inlet exit under water (ie use a tube inside res to under water level), or if maybe itd be a good idea to have a long length of dead end tube on the bottom of the res for filling (and bleeding?). I was curious how bleeding and filling would work out if I did this, it'd just look a lot better to use the top as an inlet.
> 
> thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you even read the PM's you were sent?
Click to expand...

I've gotten about 3 different answers, and your PM's had not arrived yet.

* You suggest t-fitting on the top of the reservoir, but I don't like that aesthetically compared to just a single clean 90* piece at the top. I'd also like to stick with dark chrome, black chrome, black sparkle, etc dark grayish fittings if i can.

* Someone else suggested a flow tube, aqua tube, etc but didn't really clarify how bleeding/filling would work, but said maybe i just try without one and buy it if i need it and just do what i'm doing. That'd leave a bit of air in the top of the res inevitably but i think aesthetically, that's okay, just as long as i can keep the air out of the loop. Not to mention compatibility with the phobya balancer reservoir (current choice of res, no purchases made yet).

* another person suggested a drain line


----------



## M3TAl

Filling loop up/leak testing... it's only 3:33AM lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> All I need is distilled + mayhems dye for colored fluid for acrylic tubing right? or do I need any additional additives?
> 
> 
> 
> At the very least you'll want some sort of a biocide, so it depends on which Mayhems product you plan on using.
> 
> Mayhems dyes are just a dye, so you'd at least need to add a biocide like PT_Nuke / Dead Water / Mayhems Biocide Extreme / etc.
> 
> Mayhems Pastel line includes a biocide & anti-corrosive.
> 
> Mayhems X1 line of coolants have biological and anticorrosives.
> 
> Mayhems Aurora line shouldn't be used long-term, and even in the short term only in simple loops where the 'pearl' is unlikely to clog (no bay res, no drain line, etc)
> 
> Now, how effective / problem-free are Mayhems' products. I'm not going to get into that. I've never used any of them myself. *I prefer just distilled & a biocide*, but that's just me.
Click to expand...


----------



## M3TAl

Oh man, I've got a leak!

Trickling out of the barb on the Jingway pump. Not from the tubing/barb but where oring meets Jingway. Did it come loose or I didn't tighten enough? Maybe bad fitting or oring?

Edit: just gave it a good 1/4 or maybe 1/3 turn with some pliers (tubing still on). So there was still some tightening to do on it. Maybe it's okay now?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Oh man, I've got a leak!
> 
> Trickling out of the barb on the Jingway pump. Not from the tubing/barb but where oring meets Jingway. Did it come loose or I didn't tighten enough? Maybe bad fitting or oring?


Tighten the fitting up.


----------



## M3TAl

Tightening fitting fixed the leak. I'm exhausted, going to finish this up after some sleep.

There's a giant bubble in the Supremacy block (clean plexi so it's visible). Turn pumps off and the block is only 3/4 full with water, maybe that's normal? I'll mess with it tomorrow.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Bout 3-4 months usage with Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT Bloodshed red and EKoolant clear. The last time I used the same LRT tubing, I had no issues and it was for a 4 month duration.









Can't clean the stains/residue due to the.structure of this tank res. Guess it's time for a cylindrical one









Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


----------



## bomberjun

Mugen inspired build.


----------



## kpoeticg

GORGEOUS job @bomberjun!!!

I don't know what Mugen is, but your rig looks fantastic. Really love how perfect that acrylic looks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> GORGEOUS job @bomberjun
> !!!
> I don't know what Mugen is, but your rig looks fantastic. Really love how perfect that acrylic looks


Mugen are Honda in house tuning dept...much like AMG for Merc or Mpower for BMW


----------



## kpoeticg

Kewl. I've never been much of a car enthusiast. Theme looks great tho


----------



## bomberjun

thank you


----------



## stickg1

I probably should have waited longer leak testing before powering up the rig. I was just excited to see if the VGA block was seated and working effectively (which it is). No leaks, all compression fittings and everything was super tight. I had powered up the rig about an hour after filling and bleeding the loop. I just know that one of these days my impatient filling and bleeding methods will bite me on the arse. Oh well, living on the edge I guess!

I ordered the rest of the shiny silver BP fittings I needed. I will then ditch all the black BP and QDC's. I just used them temporarily to get going.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Mugen inspired build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's damned sharp, except for the unfortunate Honda branding.









(I kid, I kid) (sorta).


----------



## KostVouts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> That seems like a sketchy place for your res.(on your PSU?)


Thats the best way for me because i dont have much space in my case.

Nzxt Phantom 410


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Impact ITX block fitted,not the chore i was expecting it to be,it doesnt require 3 hands for example....


----------



## CroakV

It's so cute! Look at the little thing, it's just precious.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bout 3-4 months usage with Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT Bloodshed red and EKoolant clear. The last time I used the same LRT tubing, I had no issues and it was for a 4 month duration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't clean the stains/residue due to the.structure of this tank res. Guess it's time for a cylindrical one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


Ouch. Looks like plasticizer. This is why I either go rigid or air


----------



## bomberjun

awesome!! Small and fast.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Ouch. Looks like plasticizer. This is why I either go rigid or air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for cleaning your reservoir; Fill up your res with 99% Isopropyl alcohol and some salt, then plug all openings and SHAKE it as hard as you can. Your res will look like new! The salt won't dissolve in the alcohol and will act like a scrub whilst the alcohol weakens anything dirty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers bud


*Noooo!* Do not ever use alcohol on acrylic. Alcohol can crack up acrylic instantly. I've unfortunately seen it happen many times now.

Here's an example:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prtuc2*
> 
> [...]
> When buying reservoir make sure you got enough space to fit. Some reservoir are design for certain pump only, so make sure you read everything through before making a purchase. *Note: any acrylic product do not put alcohol inside or in contact with or else the acrylic product became dry and cracks. Here is an image with alcohol on acrylic product*


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> *Noooo!* Do not ever use alcohol on acrylic. Alcohol can crack up acrylic instantly. I've unfortunately seen it happen many times now.
> 
> Here's an example:


Really? No way O.O

I guess I must've been lucky then. I have cleaned plenty of acrylic with rubbing alcohol and it worked like a charm.

I'll revoke what I said


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Mugen inspired build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Great job bomber... But those GPUs would look even better with backplates on them...


----------



## bomberjun

I waited a month for the backplate from EK. But in a few days it will be in our doorstep. Hopefully.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Impact ITX block fitted,not the chore i was expecting it to be,it doesnt require 3 hands for example....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/spolier]


Looking good Bneg

Have you run that board yet? I am In the market for an itx board and curious if it is worth the extra cash over most itx boards.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Impact ITX block fitted,not the chore i was expecting it to be,it doesnt require 3 hands for example....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/spolier]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good Bneg
> 
> Have you run that board yet? I am In the market for an itx board and curious if it is worth the extra cash over most itx boards.
Click to expand...

Not yet,im doing that tomorrow hopefully.

As for the board quality....

http://hwbot.org/submission/2407218_andreyang_superpi___32m_core_i7_4770k_4min_33sec_188ms

Its heavily featured,im really looking forward to opening the taps on her


----------



## wrigleyvillain

That looks fantastic.


----------



## stickg1

Hardcore overclockers rave over the Impact. They say the shorter traces is a RAM and CPU clockers wet dream. I think there's a couple world records with that board.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> *Noooo!* Do not ever use alcohol on acrylic. Alcohol can crack up acrylic instantly. I've unfortunately seen it happen many times now.
> 
> Here's an example:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Really? No way O.O
> 
> I guess I must've been lucky then. I have cleaned plenty of acrylic with rubbing alcohol and it worked like a charm.
> 
> I'll revoke what I said


Jesus..wot else can i do besides buying a new tube res


----------



## tezza192

My 600t loop completed


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tezza192*
> 
> My 600t loop completed
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks good, can you get any night shots of it?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> thank you


Dude that Cosmos II hit the spot







I've always had a thing for those cases...

-Zepp


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> Mugen inspired build.


Amazing job. The best Acrylic Job I've seen by far. Nice and clean. That paint job is really nice. Makes me wanna delete my build log lol


----------



## ccRicers

I don't have any complete build pics to show yet, but just wanted to give you a heads up of my mostly silver build that I am making. I am going to be using XSPC's AX 120 and 240 rads in silver- and since I haven't seen anyone here use them yet, here's a picture of the AX 240. The color scheme will be silver, white and gray.




The part sitting on top of the rad is a hard drive caddy for the Mac Pro. It's also going to be used in the build in a custom storage organization.


----------



## szeged

is that rust on the fins? if so are you gonna repaint them?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> is that rust on the fins? if so are you gonna repaint them?


I think it is just bare copper.


----------



## szeged

ah then nevermind


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Amazing job. The best Acrylic Job I've seen by far. Nice and clean. That paint job is really nice. Makes me wanna delete my build log lol


Thank you sir. But please dont delete it. I love your build!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it is just bare copper.


Yep. I was a bit surprised too, but stock pics can be misleading (most of them made the radiator look white).


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Any better uv lighting i should think at looking at? i have two 12" LOGISYS and i just don't think its lighting it up enough.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/o...79869053440_1333657568_n_zps651c16b0.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/o...79869153240_1010471528_n_zpsdf8e1929.jpg.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Any better uv lighting i should think at looking at? i have two 12" LOGISYS and i just don't think its lighting it up enough.
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/o...79869053440_1333657568_n_zps651c16b0.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/o...79869153240_1010471528_n_zpsdf8e1929.jpg.html


Are they the Logisys UV LEDs or the UV CCFL?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Impact ITX block fitted,not the chore i was expecting it to be,it doesnt require 3 hands for example....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


O my! That is sweet. I now know what mobo I getting for my Splash case.


----------



## ikem

took a EK CSQ bridge under the saw to make it fit.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Are they the Logisys UV LEDs or the UV CCFL?


It's the UV CCFL


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> It's the UV CCFL


Those are supposed to be some of the best UV lamps out. Don't know what to tell you.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Yep. I was a bit surprised too, but stock pics can be misleading (most of them made the radiator look white).


I have the AX240 and 360 (matte black box), and to the naked eye in most light, the fins look black. It's only in very bright sunlight or with a flash that the copper shows through. Which is a good thing, I reckon...means there's not a lot of paint insulating the fins.









The white AX rads don't even bother with that thin coat of black, the fins go _au natural_.


----------



## kpoeticg

That coolant looks pretty damn UV to me. Could always add more UV dye if you wanted, or just put more UV reactive stuff in the rig if you want more glow...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New members,can you please spoiler quoted pics,leave one unspoilered as a reference but the rest get spoilered.

This keeps the thread tidy without walls of repeated pics.

Thank you.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New members,can you please spoiler quoted pics,leave one unspoilered as a reference but the rest get spoilered.
> 
> This keeps the thread tidy without walls of repeated pics.
> 
> Thank you.


I don't know if this is me, but spoiler isn't option on my phone. So I try to avoid replies on my phone.

Sorry if it was me.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New members,can you please spoiler quoted pics,leave one unspoilered as a reference but the rest get spoilered.
> 
> This keeps the thread tidy without walls of repeated pics.
> 
> Thank you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I don't know if this is me, but spoiler isn't option on my phone. So I try to avoid replies on my phone.
> 
> Sorry if it was me.


I'm guilty of it too, no spoiler option on iOS. Unless I use desktop mode, which is terrible on my phone.

EDIT: on the bright side most people are very good at replying properly.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I don't know if this is me, but spoiler isn't option on my phone. So I try to avoid replies on my phone.
> 
> Sorry if it was me.


If you want to do it from a mobile device, you can either go to desktop mode (option at bottom of page), or just type in "SPOILER=Spoiler"

and end it off with "/SPOILER"

Replace the quotes I put in with [ or ]. I had to use quotes to keep it from actually doing it.


----------



## gr3nd3l

This.

Code:



Code:


[SPOILER=Spoiler]Your spoiler stuff goes in here...[/SPOILER]

Will show up like this.


Spoiler: Spoiler



Your spoiler stuff goes in here...



If you need to type it out in a mobile browser


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

No motherboard blocks, but my Rigid revolver fittings that match my CPU block arrived today. Also got my Hardline mandrels, time to mess a bunch of acrylic up!


----------



## Pimphare

You people and your fancy hardline mandrel kits. Dang it, now I have to order me one!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You people and your fancy hardline mandrel kits. Dang it, now I have to order me one!


You can get just the mandrels for 39.99 from both PPCs and Fcpu. or The full kit with heat gun for 79.99. I already have a heat gun and a bunch of measuring utensils, so just got the mandrels. Was nice that they threw a pair of gloves and silicone insert.


----------



## ccRicers

I'm curious to know how well the heat gun in that kit will last because well, it's branded Monsoon. I don't know what it is a rebranding of, if anything.

The mandrel kit seems like the best choice for me. I have a rotary tool already to cut, and just need a heat gun from a local store.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> took a EK CSQ bridge under the saw to make it fit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!







Did you have to tap it?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I'm curious to know how well the heat gun in that kit will last because well, it's branded Monsoon. I don't know what it is a rebranding of, if anything.
> 
> The mandrel kit seems like the best choice for me. I have a rotary tool already to cut, and just need a heat gun from a local store.


Probably a Harbor Freight type of gun, since it's only 15 bucks. i could be wrong though, but as long as It gets the job done without setting your house on fire it should be fine.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> You can get just the mandrels for 39.99 from both PPCs and Fcpu. or The full kit with heat gun for 79.99. I already have a heat gun and a bunch of measuring utensils, so just got the mandrels. Was nice that they threw a pair of gloves and silicone insert.


Yeah, I already have a heat gun and other stuff so all I need is the exact same kit you have. I have everything I need to get going except for this. I'm too scarred to try any bends without the kit and silicone insert. I'm off to Lowes to find a rivet gun for modding.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gr3nd3l*
> 
> This.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Spoiler]Your spoiler stuff goes in here...[/SPOILER]
> 
> Will show up like this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Your spoiler stuff goes in here...
> 
> 
> 
> If you need to type it out in a mobile browser


You can also just use spoiler in the first one, instead of spoiler=spoiler.

Code:



Code:


[spoiler]Stuff[/spoiler]

Looks like this:


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Probably a Harbor Freight type of gun, since it's only 15 bucks. i could be wrong though, but as long as It gets the job done without setting your house on fire it should be fine.


At any rate, any heat gun should be safer than what I'm currently using for heatshrink and sleeving:



Only bothered with it because it was 4 bucks and a block away from my house. I'd never use this for melting acrylic though!


----------



## M3TAl

Guess the giant bubble worked itself out of the CPU block. It was gone after waking up. no more leaks it seems.

Time to drain, mix up Pastel Ice White, and finally fill again. Then I'll attempt to take a picture, all I've got is Lumia 920 phone







. Wouldn't know how to use some fancy camera anyways.


----------



## Lefik

Waiting for Monsoon to release their acrylic fittings, I decided to get some cheap fittings and use normal tubing for the time being. I already got the fittings, but I'm unsure of which 1/2" x 5/8" tubing to get.
Any recommendations?
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s172/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-12_x_58_Tubing-Page1.html


----------



## subsven

Love all the new builds here. Figure I'd show off my recently completed super BA single CPU loop. I have 3 rads in here, including an Rx480, a 240 and a 120, giant dual bay res, and a stand alone MCP-35x2, all keeping my stock i7 3770k running cool as ice.







The two GTX 780 Ti SC's are great on air.











For those you haven't caught on yet







, I'm not quite finished. FCPU has my two EK 780 Ti blocks on back order, and I have a few more fan cables and a few more fittings on order as well. Just couldn't stand staring at the 780 Ti's sitting in the box on my desk, especially since I just sold my two 670 FTW's.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yeah, I already have a heat gun and other stuff so all I need is the exact same kit you have. I have every thing I need to get going except for this. I'm too scarred to try any bends without the kit and silicone insert. I'm off to Lowes to find a rivet gun for modding.


Nice, I need to invest on a paint gun. Might go for one, a pint job will cost me 300 dollars, not bad if its a one time thing, but one you do 2 or 3 cases, it adds up. Especially for custom water cooling with colored water, a pint job always go well with it.

what are you trying to rivet?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> At any rate, any heat gun should be safer than what I'm currently using for heatshrink and sleeving:
> 
> 
> 
> Only bothered with it because it was 4 bucks and a block away from my house. I'd never use this for melting acrylic though!


It's all about tenacity. Anybody can get pretty bends with the right tools, but i take my hat off for those who get jobs done with what they have available.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Nice, I need to invest on a paint gun. Might go for one, a pint job will cost me 300 dollars, not bad if its a one time thing, but one you do 2 or 3 cases, it adds up. Especially for custom water cooling with colored water, a pint job always go well with it.
> 
> what are you trying to rivet?


I have a Corsair 650D that I'm going to remove the 5.25 external HDD bays. I'll be cutting the front panel out and fabricating a new piece and riveting it into place.

Also have some other ideas, but that's my main objective as of now.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I have a Corsair 650D that I'm going to remove the 5.25 external HDD bays. I'll be cutting the front panel out and fabricating a new piece and riveting it into place.
> 
> Also have some other ideas, but that's my main objective as of now.


Sounds like water cooling fun.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Sounds like water cooling fun.


If nothing else!


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you have to tap it?


Yea I cut the threads off but here it is.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> Yea I cut the threads off but here it is.


I wouldn't have thought that the threads went that far in. Looks clean!


----------



## Eeyore888

Just bought one of those Primochill Wet Benches... They're decent... Quite a few kinks to work out in their design though. Assembly kit, screws, PSU mount, PCI-E mount, pump mount... Although, I think it turned out pretty well.

Still got some stuff to do to it. Going to snag some carbon fiver sleeved cable extensions and put a sheet of carbon fiber over the top of the mobo tray with UV lights underneath to make the edges glow. Then maybe someday I will actually get around to painting that damn red RAM!!!

Taxes will hopefully bring me a 780 Ti along with a waterblock... maybe a 3930k and another set of RAM








The tray is actually VERY green in person.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

God I love water...

Sorry, just one of those moments where I look at my monstrous build and I'm overwhelmed with euphoria at the stupidly amazing temps, the sexiness of all this copper, and 4k worth of computer lulz


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Waiting for Monsoon to release their acrylic fittings, I decided to get some cheap fittings and use normal tubing for the time being. I already got the fittings, but I'm unsure of which 1/2" x 5/8" tubing to get.
> Any recommendations?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s172/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-12_x_58_Tubing-Page1.html


Hehe nice fittings!!!

Even though you're just setting it up temporarily I would still recommend the Primochill Advance LRT. Just so you don't gunk anything up with plasticizer. The 7/16" ID tubing will work with those Koolance fittings I'm sending you, although it's a little tough to get the clamp portion of the fitting started on the thread. But I'm currently doing it with one of those 90 degree compressions with a spare piece of tubing I had because I ran out of 3/4" OD fittings.

If that's too much of a hassle though try that Tygon 1000.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I wouldn't have thought that the threads went that far in. Looks clean!


They didn't, he said he had to the the threads off and retap it!!


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Hehe nice fittings!!!
> 
> Even though you're just setting it up temporarily I would still recommend the Primochill Advance LRT. Just so you don't gunk anything up with plasticizer. The 7/16" ID tubing will work with those Koolance fittings I'm sending you, although it's a little tough to get the clamp portion of the fitting started on the thread. But I'm currently doing it with one of those 90 degree compressions with a spare piece of tubing I had because I ran out of 3/4" OD fittings.
> 
> If that's too much of a hassle though try that Tygon 1000.


Thanks! I'll give the 7/16"s a try


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

OK guys got a question....Read two reviews on the EX slim rads....

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/22/xspc-ex360-radiator/2/
A more dense 19 folds per inch may lead you to believe it's tuned for higher speed fans, but looks are decieving.

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1004622
The EX360 performs much better with high fan speeds

Wish of these reviews am i meant to trust....? I'm still a newb to water cooling,and i want to change my fans from corsair SP's to AP-15's,and i was wondering how good are these fans really,and would they perform good on these rads and at what speed should/could i run them....?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> OK guys got a question....Read two reviews on the EX slim rads....
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/22/xspc-ex360-radiator/2/
> A more dense 19 folds per inch may lead you to believe it's tuned for higher speed fans, but looks are decieving.
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1004622
> The EX360 performs much better with high fan speeds
> 
> Wish of these reviews am i meant to trust....? I'm still a newb to water cooling,and i want to change my fans from corsair SP's to AP-15's,and i was wondering how good are these fans really,and would they perform good on these rads and at what speed should/could i run them....?


Gentle Typhoons are glorious fans, sadly they have been discontinued, due to falling out between the servo company & Scythe... If you are going to grab them, grab them ASAP.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Gentle Typhoons are glorious fans, sadly they have been discontinued, due to falling out between the servo company & Scythe... If you are going to grab them, grab them ASAP.


Lol, I'm not sure if the discontinued thing is just a sales gimmick by the companies or not, but just took the last 17 one of our distributors had in stock of the AP-14's.


----------



## szeged

yeah im starting to doubt the whole discontinued thing from the typhoons lol, i asked PPCs and they had hundreds left, same with frozencpu even though they were out of stock for a while, sidewinder also has hundreds in stock also.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Gentle Typhoons are glorious fans, sadly they have been discontinued, due to falling out between the servo company & Scythe... If you are going to grab them, grab them ASAP.


Would it be better to run them them in just push or pull or push/pull for a EX 360 and EX 240 rad....?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah im starting to doubt the whole discontinued thing from the typhoons lol, i asked PPCs and they had hundreds left, same with frozencpu even though they were out of stock for a while, sidewinder also has hundreds in stock also.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Gentle Typhoons are glorious fans, sadly they have been discontinued, due to falling out between the servo company & Scythe... If you are going to grab them, grab them ASAP.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, I'm not sure if the discontinued thing is just a sales gimmick by the companies or not, but just took the last 17 one of our distributors had in stock of the AP-14's.


This is what i have been thinking too,for something thats meant to be discontinued,seems to be alot of them still around....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> FrozenCPU,
> Regretfully, both Nidec and Scythe have decided not to continue their business relationship.
> 
> We will not be able to fulfill your Gentle Typhoon order.
> We will be promoting the new Grand Flex fans. These are supposedly better than the Gentle Typhoons.
> We need to get the message out to the public. I should have some samples by early next month.
> By the way, Scythe reserves the right to the name Gentle Typhoon.
> That means Nidec can't sell the product to anybody with our label, our package, our brand and etc. attached to it.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Hank Peng
> SCYTHE, Inc.


so who knows. Last time something like this happened (when scytheus.com closed) The Japanese vendor cleared it up in a matter of hours. This is the email mark from fcpu made public. could just be a ploy to get the new name rolling.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so who knows. Last time something like this happened (when scytheus.com closed) The Japanese vendor cleared it up in a matter of hours. This is the email mark from fcpu made public. could just be a ploy to get the new name rolling.


Pretty sure there was another reference in the No More GT's thread showing that Nidec & Scythe definitely cut ties.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Pretty sure there was another reference in the No More GT's thread showing that Nidec & Scythe definitely cut ties.


The amount of production on an item like this is likely huge. Companies probably order 1,000 of them @ a time. I mean, allot of us have 24, 32, 40, or more in our computers.


----------



## fast_fate

the recipie ...
add one pre assembled cooler pack consisting of 420 rad with P&P fans and shroud, grill and mounting rails
to one accomodating case
add a dozen screws,snap on front facia and enjoy








Icing on the cake might be to paint the grill black ?? not sure yet, leaving options open


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> the recipie ...
> add one pre assembled cooler pack consisting of 420 rad with P&P fans and shroud, grill and mounting rails
> to one accomodating case
> add a dozen screws,snap on front facia and enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Icing on the cake might be to paint the grill black ?? not sure yet, leaving options open :rolleye


Looks like you need to do some yard work...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Looks like you need to do some yard work...


pft work on yard work or work on computer...


----------



## wermad

Concrete that yard up


----------



## Ragsters

Im currently running my MCP35x pump at around 2220RPMs. Anything more than that and it gets too loud. Is that Okay?


----------



## skupples

I run my mcp35x2 just under 100% 24/7 have for a long time. I do have the heatsink for it though, which makes a big difference in it's temp.


----------



## stickg1

My MCP355 looks to be running ~4400RPM. It seems kinda noisy when I'm filling the loop, but once all the air is out and I turn on the fans I can't hear it. How do I know if it's getting hot or not? It doesn't feel hot to the touch.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My MCP355 looks to be running ~4400RPM. It seems kinda noisy when I'm filling the loop, but once all the air is out and I turn on the fans I can't hear it. How do I know if it's getting hot or not? It doesn't feel hot to the touch.


That's probably good enough. I use an IR thermometer gun. The pump is a good 10c cooler with the heatsink on.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I run my mcp35x2 just under 100% 24/7 have for a long time. I do have the heatsink for it though, which makes a big difference in it's temp.


We both have the same motherboard. How do you have your settings in the bios for your pump?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> We both have the same motherboard. How do you have your settings in the bios for your pump?


I run my pumps via Aquaero 6XT. When I was running the pump off of my Max V Formula i had it set @ 50% high, 50% low.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I run my pumps via Aquaero 6XT. When I was running the pump off of my Max V Formula i had it set @ 50% high, 50% low.


How do you like the Aquaero? I am running mine at 30% high, 30% low. The noise pitch gets really high after that.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> How do you like the Aquaero? I am running mine at 30% high, 30% low. The noise pitch gets really high after that.


love it, aquasuite is amazing. I just need to throw in some well placed temp sensors, & a flow meter to get the full functionality.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> love it, aquasuite is amazing. I just need to throw in some well placed temp sensors, & a flow meter to get the full functionality.


That's what I need help with, what type of fittings I need to get a water temp sensor going. I'm really interested in knowing how warm/cool the water gets in my loop.

Also I might get a heatsink for my MCP355 just for peace of mind.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> They didn't, he said he had to the the threads off and retap it!!


Yeah I understood that. I guess I worded my statement wrong.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Any of you got any experience using hard tubing?
1) Could use a website for a cheap UK/Swedish/Norwegain/Danish supplier for both the tools (Bending templates)
2) a link to a few guides if possible








3) A pm talk with pictures and assistance










I've got experience with normal tubes, but since my GPU's are only compatible with universal blocks, makes it quiet hard to get a clean looking system.

//S1lv3r

Ta


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> the recipie ...
> add one pre assembled cooler pack consisting of 420 rad with P&P fans and shroud, grill and mounting rails
> to one accomodating case
> add a dozen screws,snap on front facia and enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Icing on the cake might be to paint the grill black ?? not sure yet, leaving options open
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice grapes! ...and mod!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Any of you got any experience using hard tubing?
> 1) Could use a website for a cheap UK/Swedish/Norwegain/Danish supplier for both the tools (Bending templates)
> 2) a link to a few guides if possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) A pm talk with pictures and assistance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got experience with normal tubes, but since my GPU's are only compatible with universal blocks, makes it quiet hard to get a clean looking system.
> 
> //S1lv3r
> 
> Ta


http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/Acrylic-Tube-Rigid_990.html

or

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php

I live in the U.S. so I'm not really sure about their service and pricing.

Slap some back plates on them GPU's if you can find some. That'll dress them up. That is if your GPU's are oriented in the right position so that the back plates are visible.









Edit: Here's a couple more..

http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk/

and

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/


----------



## Ithanul

Well, a few of my water cool stuff showed up on Friday.





My two big orders and small order where suppose to show up on Friday. But now, FedEx tracking says today. It better show up, I want to start rebuilding dang it!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> 1/4" NPT & BSP are that close it usually doesn't matter. A bit of thread tape or liquid sealant is all it normally needs.


OK, just wanted to bring this back up for an update.

I got in a couple 1/4 NPT schrader valves (they come with teflon sealant on the threads) and tried screwing them into a couple extra G 1/4 extensions I have and it's a no-go. It won't go in not even 3/4 of a turn before getting very tight to the point if I were to force it more I know I'd be damaging the threads to one or the other or both, and it's nowhere near the point of being sealed. I can blow air through it easily. It almost sounds like a whistle.

Anywho, I went ahead and ordered a couple Koolance G 1/4 Male to NPT 1/4 Female adapters from PPCs. Wish I had thought to do that before - didn't even think to look for such a thing - as I could have gotten them from FrozenCPU and added them to an order I placed there a couple days ago (grabbed the Monsoon Hardline kit and a bunch of fittings) and would have saved on the shipping and the wait.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Any of you got any experience using hard tubing?
> 1) Could use a website for a cheap UK/Swedish/Norwegain/Danish supplier for both the tools (Bending templates)
> 2) a link to a few guides if possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) A pm talk with pictures and assistance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got experience with normal tubes, but since my GPU's are only compatible with universal blocks, makes it quiet hard to get a clean looking system.
> 
> //S1lv3r
> 
> Ta


Look in my Sig for bending guides for acrylic and copper tube.


----------



## CroakV

Pity you can't buy Bitspower fittings without those (to me) hideous and tacky logos. On Every. Damned. Piece.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Pity you can't buy Bitspower fittings without those (to me) hideous and tacky logos. On Every. Damned. Piece.


https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&q=barrow+rotary+fitting
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=barrow+rotary&catId=&initiative_id=SB_20131228123646

chinese knockoff of bitspower (minus logo)


----------



## skupples

^ Made with lead.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&q=barrow+rotary+fitting
> http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=barrow+rotary&catId=&initiative_id=SB_20131228123646
> 
> chinese knockoff of bitspower (minus logo)


Nice. Lol.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ^ Made with led.


Lead I'm assuming.


----------



## skupples

i fail.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ^ Made with le*a*d.


lol, may be. Wonder if that could lead to your CPU / GPU having an attention disorder / learning disability?

I've seen a few build logs using the barrow fittings. No idea how well they worked out in the long run, but they do look a lot like bitspower fittings minus the logo.


----------



## skupples

eh, i'm sure they are fine. Though, they don't look that much cheaper than bitspower depending on where you are shipping to.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, may be. Wonder if that could lead to your CPU / GPU having an attention disorder / learning disability?
> 
> I've seen a few build logs using the barrow fittings. No idea how well they worked out in the long run, but they do look a lot like bitspower fittings minus the logo.


No attention disorders, just birth defects if you have dual-CPU or dual-GPU systems.


----------



## Durvelle27

Few parts arrived today


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> eh, i'm sure they are fine. Though, they don't look that much cheaper than bitspower depending on where you are shipping to.


Yeah, from those links I posted that's true. See them fairly often for a lot cheaper on ebay sometimes, but they don't ever list them under the 'barrow' name so are harder to search for. [email protected] is just one such seller on ebay of chinese knockoff computer stuff who often has those fittings for a bit cheaper.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/Acrylic-Tube-Rigid_990.html
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php
> 
> I live in the U.S. so I'm not really sure about their service and pricing.
> 
> Slap some back plates on them GPU's if you can find some. That'll dress them up. That is if your GPU's are oriented in the right position so that the back plates are visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Here's a couple more..
> 
> http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk/
> 
> and
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/


Ta









Regarding the backplates. There is no premade for the cards i've got... Wish i researched a bit before i bought my cards








I can get custom blocks made for them for 100€, or 75€ from http://www.liquidextasy.de, tho i do not know wether they are legit or not...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> eh, i'm sure they are fine. Though, they don't look that much cheaper than bitspower depending on where you are shipping to.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, from those links I posted that's true. See them fairly often for a lot cheaper on ebay sometimes, but they don't ever list them under the 'barrow' name so are harder to search for. [email protected] is just one such seller on ebay of chinese knockoff computer stuff who often has those fittings for a bit cheaper.


Yeah was gonna try a couple of his 45 rotaries but found a few more BPs used instead. Those seem to be the best deal compared to name brand. The plugs, for example, are 2.99. May as well get the real deal. Unless you hate the branding, of course, which is how this started.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Heys guys are there any benefits to running push/pull on a 30mm rad,and if so what would that be....?


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Heys guys are there any benefits to running push/pull on a 30mm rad,and if so what would that be....?


only 0.10% if any.


----------



## pc-illiterate

it depends on the rad. high fpi, yes. low fpi, no.
less noise running push/pull as the fans dont need to work as hard to push air through the rad.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> it depends on the rad. high fpi, yes. low fpi, no.
> less noise running push/pull as the fans dont need to work as hard to push air through the rad.


Rads is an EX 360,not sure if its has a high/low fpi....


----------



## ledzepp3

And it all comes together slowly...






-Zepp


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> 1/4" NPT & BSP are that close it usually doesn't matter. A bit of thread tape or liquid sealant is all it normally needs.
> 
> 
> 
> OK, just wanted to bring this back up for an update.
> 
> I got in a couple 1/4 NPT schrader valves (they come with teflon sealant on the threads) and tried screwing them into a couple extra G 1/4 extensions I have and it's a no-go. It won't go in not even 3/4 of a turn before getting very tight to the point if I were to force it more I know I'd be damaging the threads to one or the other or both, and it's nowhere near the point of being sealed. I can blow air through it easily. It almost sounds like a whistle.
> 
> Anywho, *I went ahead and ordered a couple Koolance G 1/4 Male to NPT 1/4 Female adapters from PPCs. Wish I had thought to do that before* - didn't even think to look for such a thing - as I could have gotten them from FrozenCPU and added them to an order I placed there a couple days ago (grabbed the Monsoon Hardline kit and a bunch of fittings) and would have saved on the shipping and the wait.
Click to expand...

Unless they have done a lot to improve them, or the one I got when I was younger, is a fluke, . . .

You'll rue the day you bought it.

The female NPT is too large in diameter /too shallow an engagement depth, for most male NPT fittings to screw into far enough to affect a proper seal. Remember the T in NPT is for tapered . . .

Tried even with half a roll of Teflon tape and it still leaked down slowly.

Farkin' thing was useless, which is why I made up that acrylic manifold I pictured a few days back for air leakdown testing.

Hope you have better luck with it than I did, but at least you'll be looking for the issue where it took me a while to suss it out.

Darlene


----------



## Pimphare

New tools and tid bits!











Thanks to B Negative for his fuel line acrylic insert idea! Hope his method serves me well.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> New tools and tid bits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to B Negative for his fuel line acrylic insert idea! Hope his method serves me well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip


I can't tell in that picture but is that the Dewalt impact driver or adjustable chuck drill? I have both, but I prefer my Milwakees. Probably wont matter for you cus it will get the job done, but I use them all the time at work as a carpenter.


----------



## stickg1

Well my impatience and boredom got the best of me again today. I decided to add another radiator and used some dinky little 3/8" ID fittings and spare tube. But for your viewing pleasure, some ghetto rigged draining brilliance. I used my trustee box'o'parts I mentioned a few pages back to rig up the most epic drain line. All that is I ask is when you think "ghetto-rigged" you think "stickg1"


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> eh, i'm sure they are fine. Though, they don't look that much cheaper than bitspower depending on where you are shipping to.


With Aliexpress the shipping is generally included w/ the price. And it isn't the price that bothers me w/ BP, it is the huge painted logos. Plus the black paint on the Barrows is a better matte black vs the BPs. I've used the Barrow 90 degree rotaries in most of my builds for the last year and honestly I wouldn't consider anything else.

Look at how glossy the BP 'matte' fitting is compared to the Barrow.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-38-3.jpg.html


----------



## stickg1

I wonder if I have hit the point of diminishing returns? Adding another 120mm rad to make 480mm total of rad space is the same temps as when it was 360mm of total rad space. I have another 120mm rad coming in the mail too, lol. Oh well I will install it anyway because it will break up one of my longer tubing lines.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I can't tell in that picture but is that the Dewalt impact driver or adjustable chuck drill? I have both, but I prefer my Milwakees. Probably wont matter for you cus it will get the job done, but I use them all the time at work as a carpenter.


When ever I get me a drill, it is going to be a Milwakee. Just because if a drill can survive Crewcheifs taking panels with tons of screws out and back into panels on aircraft ever dang week, and still work. That is a serious drill.

Anway, wooooo, they finally came!








^I going to have to do something about that copper block......it driving me nuts with the irregular surface.




Now to get ready to do my buildlog. Though, I still hunting out a place that sell 6061 aluminum sheets, and some decent paint for plastic and aluminum. Hopefully I don't hurt myself with this dremel being my first time using such a tool.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

I got aluminium sheets from Amazon for a good price.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I got aluminium sheets from Amazon for a good price.


Yeah, I was looking on there. It just so many different sizes, lengths, and thickness. Not very sure which one I should order.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Personally I went with 1/16 thick 5051 ( I think) for a non structural piece. I basically just found something with prime and ordered the size and thickness I needed then choose the cheapest which ended up 5051 or something.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I wonder if I have hit the point of diminishing returns? Adding another 120mm rad to make 480mm total of rad space is the same temps as when it was 360mm of total rad space. I have another 120mm rad coming in the mail too, lol. Oh well I will install it anyway because it will break up one of my longer tubing lines.


It depends on the specs of the rads and fans used. What kind are you using?


----------



## skupples

Indigo Xtreme clean is some pretty damned epic stuff, it's just so expensive. I find my self using 99% alcohol to do the majority of the cleaning, then going over it with Xtreme clean for the final clean.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, I was looking on there. It just so many different sizes, lengths, and thickness. Not very sure which one I should order.


I prefer 6061 T-6, it seems to work out the best for me.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Indigo Xtreme clean is some pretty damned epic stuff, it's just so expensive. I find my self using 99% alcohol to do the majority of the cleaning, then going over it with Xtreme clean for the final clean.


It better be good stuff since I kept seeing it mention around here. It just I told myself if I ever was going to upgrade my main rig. I was going to go crazy on it. Hobby Artist + Dremel + Paint, this is going to be so much fun.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I prefer 6061 T-6, it seems to work out the best for me.


How thick would you advise I go for?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> Ta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the backplates. There is no premade for the cards i've got... Wish i researched a bit before i bought my cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can get custom blocks made for them for 100€, or 75€ from http://www.liquidextasy.de, tho i do not know wether they are legit or not...


Which cards do you get?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> And it all comes together slowly...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Lookin' good sir!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> It better be good stuff since I kept seeing it mention around here. It just I told myself if I ever was going to upgrade my main rig. I was going to go crazy on it. Hobby Artist + Dremel + Paint, this is going to be so much fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How thick would you advise I go for?


What are you going to use the aluminium for?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It depends on the specs of the rads and fans used. What kind are you using?


One Swiftech MCR220 240mm w/ SP120 High and Thermalright TR-FDB-2000, one EK Coolstream 120mm w/ SP120 High, and one Watercool HTF2 120mm w/ Thermalright TR-FDB-2000

The Thermalright fans are getting replaced with SP120's when they get here. I just used them because they move a ton of air at 2000 RPMs. Kinda loud though.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I can't tell in that picture but is that the Dewalt impact driver or adjustable chuck drill? I have both, but I prefer my Milwakees. Probably wont matter for you cus it will get the job done, but I use them all the time at work as a carpenter.


It's a Dewalt impact driver. I also have a Hitachi drill. Milwakee is top of the line in power tools. I used to own a Milwakee hammer drill that I used for work. Great product!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> It better be good stuff since I kept seeing it mention around here. It just I told myself if I ever was going to upgrade my main rig. I was going to go crazy on it. Hobby Artist + Dremel + Paint, this is going to be so much fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How thick would you advise I go for?


Depends on intended use. 1/8" is usually the biggest I use unless I'm machining it.

If I need to bend it, 1/16" or 3/32" are a LOT easier to bend vs 1/8", the T-6 rating makes it pretty hard. Great for machine working/drilling, not so good for bending, lol, but not horrible.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> What are you going to use the aluminium for?


One going to be used for a PSU cover. The other piece cover the side of the drive bay, debating of mounting my SSDs drives onto that piece. Also, may do a piece to put near the motherboard tray clean the look up in the back. I currently only got a dremel, but maybe I can ask the guy at shop who does wood work as a hobby if I can use some of his tools.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Depends on intended use. 1/8" is usually the biggest I use unless I'm machining it.
> 
> If I need to bend it, 1/16" or 3/32" are a LOT easier to bend vs 1/8", the T-6 rating makes it pretty hard. Great for machine working/drilling, not so good for bending, lol, but not horrible.


Alright, lucky I only going to need to bend the PSU cover. The rest are just solid straight pieces.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> It's a Dewalt impact driver. I also have a Hitachi drill. Milwakee is top of the line in power tools. I used to own a Milwakee hammer drill that I used for work. Great product!












Impact drivers are the tits! I don't know how I drove screws without them. My milwakee can drive a 5/8" x 7" lag bolt into a solid piece of lumber with no pre-drill in a matter of seconds. So awesome, anyway, yeah water cooling and stuff..


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Impact drivers are the tits! I don't know how I drove screws without them. My milwakee can drive a 5/8" x 7" lag bolt into a solid piece of lumber with no pre-drill in a matter of seconds. So awesome, anyway, yeah water cooling and stuff..


lol I hear ya man.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

1/16 would probably be good, I used it to make my Psu cover... I'll get a pic in a sec


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> It's a Dewalt impact driver. I also have a Hitachi drill. Milwakee is top of the line in power tools. I used to own a Milwakee hammer drill that I used for work. Great product!


I'll stick with my DeWalt cordless gear. Have used tons of different tool brands as I'm a general contractor, and their the best cordless tool in quality/durability for the price without just charging for a name. I've yet to have a DeWalt tool die from use, almost all my tools now are Yellow/Black, except for my SawZall and my Mag 77.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

From my nexus 7: Sorry for the crappy pic.


Used this in 1/16in thickness
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMYWL6/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## deafboy

Must have....sooooo much want


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'll stick with my DeWalt cordless gear. Have used tons of different tool brands as I'm a general contractor, and their the best cordless tool in quality/durability for the price without just charging for a name. I've yet to have a DeWalt tool die from use, almost all my tools now are Yellow/Black, except for my SawZall and my Mag 77.


Oh man, don't get me started on the SawZall, I'd have it sleep with me in my bed if my wife would let me...

Anyway, one thing I'm hoping is that when I add my last 120mm radiator I can turn the fans down a little. I need to get me one of them damfangled fan controllers. I still use the one integrated in my Midi R2. But all it does is switch from 12v - 7v - 5v. With all 4 radiator fans at 7v the temps rise quickly. I'm looking at those Bitfenix controllers. Then the only bummer is I have to reinstall my 5.25" cage which is just kinda big and in the way for me. Maybe I can rig something together to get around that. I could always cut the cage up and just mount the part necessary to mount a fan controller. There's that option along with just making a new mount that fits the role.

Turning the fans from 12v to 7v, my CPU temps have risen 10C and my GPU temps 7C all in about 10 minutes..


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Not quite finished but getting there


----------



## wermad

Ram block time! Its gonna be tight once the mb blocks go in as well.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> With Aliexpress the shipping is generally included w/ the price. And it isn't the price that bothers me w/ BP, it is the huge painted logos. Plus the black paint on the Barrows is a better matte black vs the BPs. I've used the Barrow 90 degree rotaries in most of my builds for the last year and honestly I wouldn't consider anything else.
> 
> Look at how glossy the BP 'matte' fitting is compared to the Barrow.


Hmm good point. Much nicer-and truer-"matte". The "Barrows" are the same knock offs such as at eBay (bestdealmarket or whatever)?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Hmm good point. Much nice (and truer) "matte". The "Barrows" are the same knock offs such as at eBay (bestdealamrket or whatever)?


I wish someone told me about cheap knock-offs before I just shattered my $500 watercooling budget by spending $250 on fittings. Son of a..........










Oh well, the loop is going to turn out looking a lot nicer than I had originally planned, so there's that. And actually I'm only at $610 so I guess it isn't too bad. I'm not sure where it will end, if ever, because now I want fan controllers, water temp sensor, maybe a nicer pump with speed control, etc.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Which cards do you get?


GTX 670 PE from MSI







Custom Pcb soo


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah dude fittings can be a real killer. I've gotten lucky with used ones but such has to happen over time as they are posted, of course. I just missed out on eleven 3/4-1/2 black BPs on eBay because me and the guy were talking outside of the auction and I only bid once to get rid of the Buy It Now then forgot to increase max bid derp. Somebody scored them for $41 as it ended middle of the night. Ah well did not need nearly that many at this time plus were in Canada.


----------



## Eeyore888

Isn't that second GPU only in an x8 slot? Pretty sure the top two slots are the only x16 unless you have a PLX board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> And it all comes together slowly...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


----------



## pc-illiterate

1st and 3rd should be x16


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eeyore888*
> 
> Isn't that second GPU only in an x8 slot? Pretty sure the top two slots are the only x16 unless you have a PLX board.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 1st and 3rd should be x16
Click to expand...

This









LGA2011 has 40 lanes, so you can run up to 4-way without a plx. For my setup, its 16x/8x/8x/8x. Depending on the mb, you can run different combinations as long as it totals to 40 lanes.


----------



## skupples

That is correct, slot 2 & 4 are ONLY capable of 8x... We had this debate a week ago.

See picture:



you can see from this picture that the 1st & 3rd pci-e slot are fully pinned, which means they are capable of 3.0 16x while the other two are only capable of 3.0 8x


----------



## Eeyore888

His second card is in the 4th slot which is x8. I only have a 3xPCI-E board but I know the last slot is only x8.

just thought he should see that before he installs his tubing









Also, 2011 3.0 isn't supported by most nvidia drivers. I would suggest checking your drivers to make sure your systems are running in 3.0 but nvidia does have a force command available to download.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eeyore888*
> 
> His second card is in the 4th slot which is x8. I only have a 3xPCI-E board but I know the last slot is only x8.
> 
> just thought he should see that before he installs his tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, 2011 3.0 isn't supported by most nvidia drivers. I would suggest checking your drivers to make sure your systems are running in 3.0 but nvidia does have a force command available to download.


if he's on anything past 327.14 & using ivy-bridge, it should be automatic. If he's on 3930k he will need the force gen 3.0 reg edit.exe from nvidia's website.


----------



## captvizcenzo

I think this is Rev. 4, or maybe 5


----------



## ledzepp3

Yeah that card spacing is only temporary guys







so don't flip out or anything









-Zepp


----------



## skupples




----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> GTX 670 PE from MSI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom Pcb soo


Eww..







I bought a couple of 670 blocks for my 760's. I have reference cards though.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

If I'm running two D5's on a single loop, does it make a world of difference if they're both running side by side, or can each pump be located in different areas of the rig if it's a large and complicated loop?


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> If I'm running two D5's on a single loop, does it make a world of difference if they're both running side by side, or can each pump be located in different areas of the rig if it's a large and complicated loop?


the second can be anywhere in the loop


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> If I'm running two D5's on a single loop, does it make a world of difference if they're both running side by side, or can each pump be located in different areas of the rig if it's a large and complicated loop?


They can go anywhere,side by side is series makes it look neater and ensures that they are easier to bleed.


----------



## deafboy

Just make sure you only run one though when you initially put water in the loop so the secondary one doesn't run without water.... not as much of an issue when ran in series but worth noting if you plan on putting is elsewhere.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Just make sure you only run one though when you initially put water in the loop so the secondary one doesn't run without water.... not as much of an issue when ran in series but worth noting if you plan on putting is elsewhere.


Indeed. A valid point.


----------



## royce5950

Im building a watercooled pc and I recently decided I want to go with rigid rubing and I also want to watercool my gtx 660 so I added 2 new reservoirs, a new 240mm rad and a highflow pump. I just wanted to use both reservoirs with their tops as outlets. To run with a top outlet can I feed the water in through the bottom? Or will I want to plug the bottom, run the water in the top, then the insert tube will suck it out back through the top? Also ill be running the smaller res out the top > pump > rad > gpu > back to res... but I have it setup so far with a tube running out of the gpu and into the bottom of the res. Is this ok? Im goimg to find a nice place to mount a pump tonight. I have a second pump in the front bay.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Terrible phone pick of my new loop


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Just curious to know if anyone has ever used these fans on a rad,and if they're any good....?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23515


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Just curious to know if anyone has ever used these fans on a rad,and if they're any good....?
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23515


Eloops are good fans. I have the 1900RPM version. They work well and are nice and quiet in push but in pull or push pull they make a much louder noise and develop an awful droning sound.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Just curious to know if anyone has ever used these fans on a rad,and if they're any good....?
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23515


Yes, definitely. I use 3 myself.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Eloops are good fans. I have the 1900RPM version. They work well and are nice and quiet in push but in pull or push pull they make a much louder noise and develop an awful droning sound.


I wanted to get the E-loop 1900rpm version,just not sure how well they will go with my rig....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Yes, definitely. I use 3 myself.


Are you using them on rads,and do they have the same prob with push/pull like the NB 1900 versions....?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I wanted to get the E-loop 1900rpm version,just not sure how well they will go with my rig....
> Are you using them on rads,and do they have the same prob with push/pull like the NB 1900 versions....?


Never had any noise issues. Had them in pull. Mine are B12-3's. I probably believe older revisions have this issue but i could be wrong.


----------



## Jakusonfire

http://www.overclock.net/t/1449360/nb-eloops-noise-when-in-a-pull-or-push-pull-configuration/10#post_21353633


----------



## Maximus Knight

Thought I'd share this with you guys



























Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


----------



## B NEGATIVE

More pics....

Still suck with cameras....


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Im building a watercooled pc and I recently decided I want to go with rigid rubing and I also want to watercool my gtx 660 so I added 2 new reservoirs, a new 240mm rad and a highflow pump. I just wanted to use both reservoirs with their tops as outlets. To run with a top outlet can I feed the water in through the bottom? Or will I want to plug the bottom, run the water in the top, then the insert tube will suck it out back through the top? Also ill be running the smaller res out the top > pump > rad > gpu > back to res... but I have it setup so far with a tube running out of the gpu and into the bottom of the res. Is this ok? Im goimg to find a nice place to mount a pump tonight. I have a second pump in the front bay.


relp? :s


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More pics....
> 
> Still suck with cameras....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip


I've decided we should trade rigs. So I guess just send it on over and I'll handle the rest.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> relp? :s


Yeah the whole thing about using the bottom of the reservoir as an input and the top of the reservoir as an output could prove to be difficult. The only way it would work is water displacement, which would mean the reservoir would have to be completely full. (effectively making it a giant fat piece of tubing) This isn't typically how a reservoir is used. You might be able to use one of your reservoirs this way (since you have two), but one of them needs to have a little bit of air in it for filling and bleeding.

Or you could just use the bottom as output and top as input. OR IDK what type of res those are but if they have multiple ports on the bottom, the output and input could both be on the bottom.


----------



## royce5950

Thanl you for replying. I have the alphacool cyclone 250 and the smaller is the cape corp coolplex 10lt. If I choose to use the bottom as outlet and the top as inlet would I have the tube on the bottom or the top? I know its been answered but its not as easy to find the answer for tube reservoir questions as youd think lol


----------



## Striker36

any one know any thing about the Alphacool HF 38 Cape Cyclone reservoirs? I ordered one on a whim the other day for my build and I'm curious what I should expect as I have seen both good and bad about the Alphacool brand. At the surface it seems to be a pretty sweet little res but its hard to tell from the stuff I have found on it

this one.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20802/ex-res-618/Alphacool_HF_38_Cape_Cyclone_Reservoir_-_250_V2.html?id=yaIm2S2R&mv_pc=155


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Thanl you for replying. I have the alphacool cyclone 250 and the smaller is the cape corp coolplex 10lt. If I choose to use the bottom as outlet and the top as inlet would I have the tube on the bottom or the top? I know its been answered but its not as easy to find the answer for tube reservoir questions as youd think lol


The little tube that goes on the inside of the reservoir? If you use the top as the inlet, then that little tube goes on the top. What it does is prevents the water from splashing and creating air bubbles.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The little tube that goes on the inside of the reservoir? If you use the top as the inlet, then that little tube goes on the top. What it does is prevents the water from splashing and creating air bubbles.


it also keeps the loop from draining because the water coming from the tube cant 'push through' the water in the res.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> any one know any thing about the Alphacool HF 38 Cape Cyclone reservoirs? I ordered one on a whim the other day for my build and I'm curious what I should expect as I have seen both good and bad about the Alphacool brand. At the surface it seems to be a pretty sweet little res but its hard to tell from the stuff I have found on it
> 
> this one.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20802/ex-res-618/Alphacool_HF_38_Cape_Cyclone_Reservoir_-_250_V2.html?id=yaIm2S2R&mv_pc=155


The larger of the two reservoirs I just posted pictures of was the reservoir you were curious about. It is so far as solid reservoir as I've seen from holding it and working with just a little bit. I took it upon myself to use silicone adhesive around the threading on the inside where the caps on the top and bottom are placed on the tube and from the pictures you'll see that you can't tell I used any adhesive. it also creates a little bit stronger seal not that any of the seals on this reservoir need it but it does make me feel a little bit more comfortable lol. Other than that beer aware that this Reservoir in particular requires 1 to 2 3/8 inch fittings to work and function. They use this to create a higher flowing reservoir and I guess as kind of a way to get other companies to play along and start creating more 3/8 inch driven reservoirs and other water cooling products. So I just went ahead and ordered 1its power 3/8 inch to 1/4 inch adapterso that I could use my primo chill widget acrylic ghost videos and not be stuck using a 3/8 inch barb fitting because as far as I'm aware they don't make any 3/8 inch acrylic touring fittings yet. So basically it looks to be a nice and solid reservoir and I do in particular like the to mount that came with it and I do think that overall I'm going to be satisfied with this to reservoir as I believe you will as well. Plus assuming it you got it off of either performance PCs or frozen CPU you probably paid no more than 40 to 45 dollarsso in that price range I'm happy to say that you and I probably scored lol also I haven't taken the inserts out yet but it looks as if it also comes with A 1/4 inch led crystal clear stop plug at the bottom end of the tube so thats another bonus. so if you already got yourself 3/8 inch for you already ordered some along with your tube reservoir then you're set but I just figured I would let you know since I was a little bit shocked to figure out a week later that I had to order these adapters and I just didn't want you to be stuck with A new reservoir and you are either unable to stall it or you get impatient and try and fill the gap with plumbers tape or something lol  but I guess my girlfriend reminds me I should also mention that I wasn't talking about 3/8 inch fittings but I was actually talking about a 3/8 inch threaded fitting or a 3/8 inch adapter that goes Into a female 1/4 threaded hole. Ill post a pic.


----------



## royce5950

Striker u need 1 or2 3/8" adapters because the insert tube and one other port are made for that size fitting for higher flow. But ita badass reservoir for 40 bucks


----------



## Striker36

Thank's for the heads up on the fittings. This is the sort of reason I need to stop buying things when I have been drinking haha. I never know exactly what I'm getting that way


----------



## royce5950

I'm not sure if its still like this on both the web sites but you can imagine how pissed I was sense at the time I purchased this there was no mention in the needed the settings so I got it thinking I'd be able to install it today it arrived but instead I had to stare at it for a few hours scratching my chin and then wait another week and a half because of holiday time shipping and all that crap... Lol so I want to save you the trouble so you know just in case they didn't mention it.


----------



## Striker36

Lol. Im still quite an ways off from actualy plumbing anything at the moment as it will be doing in my Monolith build and I mostly wanted it to help with measuring for the fabricating I need to do.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if its still like this on both the web sites but you can imagine how pissed I was sense at the time I purchased this there was no mention in the needed the settings so I got it thinking I'd be able to install it today it arrived but instead I had to stare at it for a few hours scratching my chin and then wait another week and a half because of holiday time shipping and all that crap... Lol so I want to save you the trouble so you know just in case they didn't mention it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if its still like this on both the web sites but you can imagine how pissed I was sense at the time I purchased this there was no mention in the needed the settings so I got it thinking I'd be able to install it today it arrived but instead I had to stare at it for a few hours scratching my chin and then wait another week and a half because of holiday time shipping and all that crap... Lol so I want to save you the trouble so you know just in case they didn't mention it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> Thank's for the heads up on the fittings. This is the sort of reason I need to stop buying things when I have been drinking haha. I never know exactly what I'm getting that way


I'm right there with you, I'm usually pretty good about researching something before I buy it but I gotta admit I get pretty trigger happy sometimes when I got a good amount of money in my bank account lol. Sometimes I research for weeks about one item but I was astonished and dumbfounded to see those huge ****ers when it arrived.


----------



## X-oiL

I'm looking to create a drain loop using the single port on the UT60.

My question is will these fit together or do I need anything else?

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-221-BP

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-220-BP

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-048-BX

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-426-BP


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> I'm looking to create a drain loop using the single port on the UT60.
> 
> My question is will these fit together or do I need anything else?
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-221-BP
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-220-BP
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-048-BX
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-426-BP


I would get this male-to-male instead. The reason is to make sure that the mini valve's handle is pointed up.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I would get this male-to-male instead. The reason is to make sure that the mini valve's handle is pointed up.


Thanks  is this a good solution or is there a way to make it more smoothly?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh man, don't get me started on the SawZall, I'd have it sleep with me in my bed if my wife would let me...
> 
> Anyway, one thing I'm hoping is that when I add my last 120mm radiator I can turn the fans down a little. I need to get me one of them damfangled fan controllers. I still use the one integrated in my Midi R2. But all it does is switch from 12v - 7v - 5v. With all 4 radiator fans at 7v the temps rise quickly. I'm looking at those Bitfenix controllers. Then the only bummer is I have to reinstall my 5.25" cage which is just kinda big and in the way for me. Maybe I can rig something together to get around that. I could always cut the cage up and just mount the part necessary to mount a fan controller. There's that option along with just making a new mount that fits the role.
> 
> Turning the *fans* from *12v* to 7v, my CPU temps have risen 10C and my GPU temps 7C all in about 10 minutes..


There !

Thank you !

I've been obsessing over how to get my temps lower and whether or not I should tore my whole loop apart and flush the rads and all since you mentioned your abnormally low temps and said you weren't running your fans fast nor were living in a -5°C environment. Turns out you are totally running your fans fast. At their fastest speed in fact. I like most aspects of water cooling and it's to me a way to avid having to compromise between silence and performance with the added aesthetics advantages. Which is why I run all my fans at their lowest possible speed, being 5V.
No wonders that with "so little" rad surface you were getting such good temps. Especially considering your fans are the SP120s. Are they the 2350rpm editions too ?

Anyway, I'm really glad you wrote that. Now I can finally stop obsessing over my temps.

Oh and I respect you for being able to cope with fans running that fast. I guess working with tools kind of makes you able to ignore noises like that


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> There !
> 
> Thank you !
> 
> I've been obsessing over how to get my temps lower and whether or not I should tore my whole loop apart and flush the rads and all since you mentioned your abnormally low temps and said you weren't running your fans fast nor were living in a -5°C environment. Turns out you are totally running your fans fast. At their fastest speed in fact. I like most aspects of water cooling and it's to me a way to avid having to compromise between silence and performance with the added aesthetics advantages. Which is why I run all my fans at their lowest possible speed, being 5V.
> No wonders that with "so little" rad surface you were getting such good temps. Especially considering your fans are the SP120s. Are they the 2350rpm editions too ?
> 
> Anyway, I'm really glad you wrote that. Now I can finally stop obsessing over my temps.
> 
> Oh and I respect you for being able to cope with fans running that fast. I guess working with tools kind of makes you able to ignore noises like that


My SP120's are the 2350RPM model but I use the adapter that came with them to make them run 1850RPM. To me they aren't loud at all, its a deeper tone, not a whiny high pitched tone. But I don't water cool for silence, I'm in it for the performance. So if that means running 4x fans at ~1800RPM bring it on!

I guess everyone gets into watercooling for different reasons. My PC is really quiet compared to when I was on air cooling and had to have fans at full speed just so I didn't throttle.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My SP120's are the 2350RPM model but I use the adapter that came with them to make them run 1850RPM. To me they aren't loud at all, its a deeper tone, not a whiny high pitched tone. But I don't water cool for silence, I'm in it for the performance. So if that means running 4x fans at ~1800RPM bring it on!
> 
> I guess everyone gets into watercooling for different reasons. My PC is really quiet compared to when I was on air cooling and had to have fans at full speed just so I didn't throttle.


Ok







.

Three of my fans only go up to 800rpm @ full speed and the four Apache I guess do around 1300rpm. I just ran the whole 3DMark testing and came back. Temps never exceeded 40°C and hovered between 35°C and that.
I guess I could get used to running them all at 12V. It's not half as loud as most server rooms I've been in. And with a 19°C ambient that's only about 20°C Delta.


----------



## ozzy1925

i want to buy ek x3 250ml reservoir and it says:
When using ports #1 and #2 make sure not to use fittings or barbs with diameter larger than 25mm!
Does anybody know the diameter of the bitspower G1/4" compression fitting (1/2" (OD 3/4") ?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well 25mm is about an inch. Inch = 25.4


----------



## VSG

Ya, but the compression fittings are larger than the tube diameter. I would say that's pushing it but can't verify since all my fittings have been packed up for moving.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i want to buy ek x3 250ml reservoir and it says:
> When using ports #1 and #2 make sure not to use fittings or barbs with diameter larger than 25mm!
> Does anybody know the diameter of the bitspower G1/4" compression fitting (1/2" (OD 3/4") ?


Looks like it's 26mm


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, looks like it's JUST over



Lol, i got beat by a unicr0n hunter =\


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like it's 26mm


What EK means to say is, MAKE SURE YOU USE OUR 1/2 BY 3/4 fittings.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like it's 26mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, looks like it's JUST over
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, i got beat by a unicr0n hunter =\


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What EK means to say is, MAKE SURE YOU USE OUR 1/2 BY 3/4 fittings.


edit:i understand now you guys showing the correct diameter


----------



## kpoeticg

Look at the diagrams. The outer diameter is 26mm

OD of tubing = 3/4"

OD of fitting = 26mm

1mm is hardly anything. I'd guess that it'll fit. But i'm sure some1 in here knows for sure. Worse case scenario is you'd need a tiny extender if you wanna stay all BP, just so your fittings aren't colliding with each other


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> guys are we talking about the same dimension?Because i am asking this diameter:


Yep, that's called the diameter.
The symbol for diameter is ø
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%98



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Look at the diagrams. The outer diameter is 26mm
> OD of tubing = 3/4"
> OD of fitting = 26mm
> 
> 1mm is hardly anything. I'd guess that it'll fit. But i'm sure some1 in here knows for sure. Worse case scenario is you'd need a tiny extender if you wanna stay all BP, just so your fittings aren't colliding with each other


as you say using some 45 or 90* adapter will solve the issue ,1mm looks very small

I checked frozen cpu and they have an option for bp 1/2" x 3/4".I would like to read some owners opinion


----------



## VSG

Ya, you can get angled compression fittings and those would work nicely. Angled compressions would be cheaper than angled rotary adapter + regular compression fitting as well.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Jesus..wot else can i do besides buying a new tube res


Were you able to get it clean? Perhaps try vinegar, seal it up, and shake shake shake. Maybe let it sit a bit too. If that doesn't get it all maybe try to see if you can get at it with a vinegar-soaked q-tip. That's all I got.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Look at the diagrams. The outer diameter is 26mm
> OD of tubing = 3/4"
> OD of fitting = 26mm
> 
> 1mm is hardly anything. I'd guess that it'll fit. But i'm sure some1 in here knows for sure. Worse case scenario is you'd need a tiny extender if you wanna stay all BP, just so your fittings aren't colliding with each other
> 
> 
> 
> as you say using some 45 or 90* adapter will solve the issue ,1mm looks very small
> 
> I checked frozen cpu and they have an option for bp 1/2" x 3/4".I would like to read some owners opinion
Click to expand...

That would work too. But i meant a G1/4 extender


----------



## stickg1

I ordered a couple of those extenders just in case. When I re-do my loop with all shiny silver fittings later this coming week I'm hoping to actually have left-over unused fittings. I'll be damned if my progress is stopped because I'm short a fitting or two. But we all know how that goes, it will be inevitable.


----------



## pc-illiterate

1mm is huge. 2mm is twice that which is what it would actually be.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What EK means to say is, MAKE SURE YOU USE OUR 1/2 BY 3/4 fittings.


lol

At least they didn't stamp them with hideous circles.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 1mm is huge. 2mm is twice that which is what it would actually be.


I thought he said 25 was the highest recommended size. 1mm is huge???


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That would work too. But i meant a G1/4 extender
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i think these extenders wont stop them touching each other


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i think these extenders wont stop them touching each other


If you put a fitting on the res and one on an extender then it'll stop them touching. As long as the extender's withing the recommended diameter.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> i think these extenders wont stop them touching each other


just get 2x 45 degree fittings. Or really, just one most likely.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> i think these extenders wont stop them touching each other


The key is to use an extender on only one of the fittings so it sticks out past of the other fittings that is mounted directly to the block.


----------



## royce5950

stickg1 is corrwct. I ran into this problem with primochill revolver fittings on an alphacool res.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you put a fitting on the res and one on an extender then it'll stop them touching. As long as the extender's withing the recommended diameter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> just get 2x 45 degree fittings. Or really, just one most likely.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The key is to use an extender on only one of the fittings so it sticks out past of the other fittings that is mounted directly to the block.


ty , i understand what you mean now,but that may look awful i will stick with angled adapters


----------



## kpoeticg

Whatever works best for your setup...

They make short extenders, but it can end up looking bad if the diameter's are far off from each other. I personally really like the look of the Monsoon angled fittings. That's why i've been waiting for them to come out with their hardline fittings before i start plumbing my loop


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering does Lamptron FC5v3 or FC6 control 3 pin fan or 4 pin fan. I want a good controller that controller 3 pin fans.

max dollars is $50.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> lol
> 
> At least they didn't stamp them with hideous circles.


I'd pay good money for some acrylic compressions w/ some crop circles on them.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering does Lamptron FC5v3 or FC6 control 3 pin fan or 4 pin fan. I want a good controller that controller 3 pin fans.
> 
> max dollars is $50.


Both are 3-pin fan controllers.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering does Lamptron FC5v3 or FC6 control 3 pin fan or 4 pin fan. I want a good controller that controller 3 pin fans.
> 
> max dollars is $50.


All fan controllers control 3Pin fans.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering does Lamptron FC5v3 or FC6 control 3 pin fan or 4 pin fan. I want a good controller that controller 3 pin fans.
> 
> max dollars is $50.


I just ordered a Bitfenix recon 5.


----------



## NavDigitalStorm

Here is a build we did recently, think you guys would enjoy it! Not a lot of copper-tubed systems here.


----------



## kpoeticg

Looks tight!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavDigitalStorm*
> 
> Here is a build we did recently, think you guys would enjoy it! Not a lot of copper-tubed systems here.


Nice.
There are a number of copper loop rigs in here,I have made three myself.....


----------



## NavDigitalStorm

If you guys are interested, I can post ore pics of some of our custom loops.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Are those sli bridges available anywhere other than through a full build from you all?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavDigitalStorm*
> 
> Here is a build we did recently, think you guys would enjoy it! Not a lot of copper-tubed systems here.


Where did you get that SLI bridge?


----------



## IT Diva

Wooo Hooooo . . . . Finally got the chance to try out my new Monsoon hardline tubing bending kit . . . .
















The kit is awesome, a little practice and getting familiar with the way your tubing responds to heat, and it's off to bending heaven you go.

I connected up the res/pump modules with the mobo and GPU modules . . . . .

Note to you guys using tubing from McMaster or other plastics places, McMaster Carr tubing is extruded and is more temp sensitive than cast, so I adjusted the amount of heat and went to the mandrels as soon as it felt noodley, not a little after like they show in the video.

Hold the tubing about 2.5" to 3" above the heat gun and heat about a 2.5" wide area with your bend point at the center.

Keep it moving and rotating, and as soon as it feels "loose", go to the mandrels

That was the key, . . no more thumb prints and dimples from pushing it against the mandrel.

That tubing gets really really soft if you give it just a little more than just enough heat.

Anyway, I'm pretty OK with the results, but maybe in a few days, I'll feel like having another think on if there's any better routing options.

One of the things that makes it a bit more challenging, is that each half of each loop can be drained/filled independently, so there's extra valves at low points, and air bleed ports at high points to account for. . . . and the swing of the actuators.

Darlene







Now as soon as the mobo block comes, I can rip it all apart to install the block . . . .








The fun just never ends . . . .


----------



## VSG

Looks great!


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn Darlene, that's some SERIOUS nerd pr0n right there. Great pics!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wow looks amazing!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooo Hooooo . . . . Finally got the chance to try out my new Monsoon hardline tubing bending kit . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The kit is awesome, a little practice and getting familiar with the way your tubing responds to heat, and it's off to bending heaven you go.
> 
> I connected up the res/pump modules with the mobo and GPU modules . . . . .
> 
> Note to you guys using tubing from McMaster or other plastics places, McMaster Carr tubing is extruded and is more temp sensitive than cast, so I adjusted the amount of heat and went to the mandrels as soon as it felt noodley, not a little after like they show in the video.
> 
> Hold the tubing about 2.5" to 3" above the heat gun and heat about a 2.5" wide area with your bend point at the center.
> 
> Keep it moving and rotating, and as soon as it feels "loose", go to the mandrels
> 
> That was the key, . . no more thumb prints and dimples from pushing it against the mandrel.
> 
> That tubing gets really really soft if you give it just a little too more than just enough heat.
> 
> Anyway, I'm pretty OK with the results, but maybe in a few days, I'll feel like having another think on if there's any better routing options.
> 
> One of the things that makes it a bit more challenging, is that each half of each loop can be drained/filled independently, so there's extra valves at low points, and air bleed ports at high points to account for.
> 
> Darlene


Damn sexy! That's a huge piece of real estate!







Can't wait to see some fluid running thru it!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavDigitalStorm*
> 
> If you guys are interested, I can post ore pics of some of our custom loops.


Yes, we like pictures!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooo Hooooo . . . . Finally got the chance to try out my new Monsoon hardline tubing bending kit . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....:


So shiney...


----------



## royce5950

If I use the small tube reservoir I have shown in this picture with both inlet and outlet on the bottom of the reservoir how exactly would I place the fittings and run the tubing? And basically I want to know will I be using the small little insert tube inside of the reservoir for anything? Or will it pretty much just go up through one hole in the water will feed straight back down through another one? Because I can't really find any in-depth pictures that show me how this is done without having one of the pumps already on the tube reservoir you know like the pump top reservoirs I guess you would call them.

basically long story short I just want to know if I'm using the bottom of the two reservoirs as both the inlet and outlet and I have a punk the isn't the kind that sits on top or below the tube then will I be using the small little answer to be inside of the tube reservoir or could I send Julie just run it without the tube? I know that it's usually a good idea in other setups are settings to use thesmall little tube inside of the reservoir to stop whirlpool in for bubbles or splashing... But I'm just wondering if its needed in this scenario because that's the only thing that's holding you back so far from putting my loop together. I really appreciate your answer in all of you guys time to all who have helped me out even if you just taking the time to read my post I hope that this can go as a learning experience the other two are havingthe same problem and I just want to take this time do also thank those who have helped me already and those two are hoping or I'm hoping lol that will help me in finishing this haha thanks guys


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooo Hooooo . . . . Finally got the chance to try out my new Monsoon hardline tubing bending kit . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kit is awesome, a little practice and getting familiar with the way your tubing responds to heat, and it's off to bending heaven you go.
> 
> I connected up the res/pump modules with the mobo and GPU modules . . . . .
> 
> Note to you guys using tubing from McMaster or other plastics places, McMaster Carr tubing is extruded and is more temp sensitive than cast, so I adjusted the amount of heat and went to the mandrels as soon as it felt noodley, not a little after like they show in the video.
> 
> Hold the tubing about 2.5" to 3" above the heat gun and heat about a 2.5" wide area with your bend point at the center.
> 
> Keep it moving and rotating, and as soon as it feels "loose", go to the mandrels
> 
> That was the key, . . no more thumb prints and dimples from pushing it against the mandrel.
> 
> That tubing gets really really soft if you give it just a little more than just enough heat.
> 
> Anyway, I'm pretty OK with the results, but maybe in a few days, I'll feel like having another think on if there's any better routing options.
> 
> One of the things that makes it a bit more challenging, is that each half of each loop can be drained/filled independently, so there's extra valves at low points, and air bleed ports at high points to account for. . . . and the swing of the actuators.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Now as soon as the mobo block comes, I can rip it all apart to install the block . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fun just never ends . . . .


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavDigitalStorm*
> 
> If you guys are interested, I can post ore pics of some of our custom loops.


I'd love to see some more pictures!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fun just never ends . . . .


Cocktail bar


----------



## NavDigitalStorm

Here is a setup in a 900D to give some inspiration.


----------



## stickg1

I nominate IT Diva as host of the first annual OCN WC Club rave. Her build as the center piece. I don't know about you guys but I see that rig and I wanna party!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I nominate IT Diva as host of the first annual OCN WC Club rave. Her build as the center piece. I don't know about you guys but I see that rig and I wanna party!


Couldn't help myself . . .









Had to see what it was going to look like with the side window panel on and the light small panel on the backplate of the top GPU to show off the mobo.

I'm pretty excited . . . Hopefully, I can get similar lightpanels on the back of each GPU, but space is really tight, so I'l have to see how that goes . . . .

Couple more pics with the window up, and down:

Whatcha think guys . .

Darlene


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Couldn't help myself . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to see what it was going to look like with the side window panel on and the light small panel on the backplate of the top GPU to show off the mobo.
> 
> I'm pretty excited . . . Hopefully, I can get similar lightpanels on the back of each GPU, but space is really tight, so I'l have to see how that goes . . . .
> 
> Couple more pics with the window up, and down:
> 
> Whatcha think guys . .
> 
> Darlene


Look really nice I like it


----------



## NavDigitalStorm

That is a nice rig Diva!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Diva, those runs are so straight!!! 10/10


----------



## NavDigitalStorm

More copper!


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavDigitalStorm*
> 
> More copper!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! Sounds like you have the dream job


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> If I use the small tube reservoir I have shown in this picture with both inlet and outlet on the bottom of the reservoir how exactly would I place the fittings and run the tubing? And basically I want to know will I be using the small little insert tube inside of the reservoir for anything? Or will it pretty much just go up through one hole in the water will feed straight back down through another one? Because I can't really find any in-depth pictures that show me how this is done without having one of the pumps already on the tube reservoir you know like the pump top reservoirs I guess you would call them.
> 
> basically long story short I just want to know if I'm using the *bottom* of the two *reservoirs* as both the inlet and outlet and I have a *punk* the isn't the kind that sits on top or below the tube then will I be using the small little *answer* to be inside of the tube reservoir or could I send *Julie* just run it without the tube? I know that it's usually a good idea in other setups are settings to use thesmall little tube inside of the reservoir to stop whirlpool in for bubbles or splashing... But I'm just wondering if its needed in this scenario because that's the only thing that's holding you back so far from putting my loop together. I really appreciate your answer in all of you guys time to all who have helped me out even if you just taking the time to read my post I hope that this can go as a learning experience the other two are havingthe same problem and I just want to take this time do also thank those who have helped me already and those two are hoping or I'm hoping lol that will help me in finishing this haha thanks guys


I'm not sure exactly what you said in that message, (lot of typos I'm guessing).

But, if you use two ports at the bottom of tube res, you do NOT need that internal tube, that tube is for using a top port as an inlet.


----------



## NavDigitalStorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> Very nice! Sounds like you have the dream job


I do! Shall i post more? haha


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavDigitalStorm*
> 
> I do! Shall i post more? haha


this is the water-cooling picture Forum


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavDigitalStorm*
> 
> I do! Shall i post more? haha


Please!


----------



## NavDigitalStorm




----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Were you able to get it clean? Perhaps try vinegar, seal it up, and shake shake shake. Maybe let it sit a bit too. If that doesn't get it all maybe try to see if you can get at it with a vinegar-soaked q-tip. That's all I got.


I tried using a cotton bud to reach the inner wall where the debri/stains are. Broke the bud lol. I'll see if my mum lets me have her vinegar.

Question: might it be logical to take this opportunity and change to a tube res once and for all?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I tried using a cotton bud to reach the inner wall where the debri/stains are. Broke the bud lol. I'll see if my mum lets me have her vinegar.
> 
> Question: might it be logical to take this opportunity and change to a tube res once and for all?


Is say yes to switching. But I prefer tube reservoirs over bay units.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Is say yes to switching. But I prefer tube reservoirs over bay units.


Mines a XSPC acrylic tank res for DDC :X


----------



## LunaP

Hmm question, I have 1/2" OD acrylic tubing and I have 1/2" OD 3/8" ID compression fittings (primo chill and BP) neither fit, am I doing something wrong?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm question, I have 1/2" OD acrylic tubing and I have 1/2" OD 3/8" ID compression fittings (primo chill and BP) neither fit, am I doing something wrong?


Lol, you CANNOT use fittings for flexible tubing with Rigid Acrylic tubing. The rigid acrylic tubing has special fittings just for it!!!!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, you CANNOT use fittings for flexible tubing with Rigid Acrylic tubing. The rigid acrylic tubing has special fittings just for it!!!!


I thought / was told that the revolvers and the ghosts where made for acrylic/rigged, at least that's what it said on FCPU and PPC's where I got both from?I ordered from their rigged acrylic section for fittings









Could you link me to the proper fittings then?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm question, I have 1/2" OD acrylic tubing and I have 1/2" OD 3/8" ID compression fittings (primo chill and BP) neither fit, am I doing something wrong?


For 1/2" rigid acrylic tubing, you need to buy the Primochill Rigid Acrylic Compression fittings, or wait for the folks at Monsoon to release there new fittings, whenever that is.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I thought / was told that the revolvers and the ghosts where made for acrylic/rigged, at least that's what it said on FCPU and PPC's where I got both from?I ordered from their rigged acrylic section for fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you link me to the proper fittings then?


Those should be the correct fittings then (at least the Primochill ones, BP doesn't make any fittings for 1/2" rigid acrylic.)

Can u snap a pick of one of the Primochill fittings and post it??


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I thought / was told that the revolvers and the ghosts where made for acrylic/rigged, at least that's what it said on FCPU and PPC's where I got both from?I ordered from their rigged acrylic section for fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you link me to the proper fittings then?


First one: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20539/ex-tub-1887/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Ghost_Compression_Fittings_-_4_Pack_-_Anodized_Black.html?tl=g30c409s2019

Second: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22098/ex-tub-2358/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Revolver_Compression_Diamond_Knurled_Fittings_-_10_Pack_-_Anodized_Black.html?tl=g30c409s2019


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Those should be the correct fittings then (at least the Primochill ones, BP doesn't make any fittings for 1/2" rigid acrylic.)
> 
> Can u snap a pick of one of the Primochill fittings and post it??


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm question, I have 1/2" OD acrylic tubing and I have 1/2" OD 3/8" ID compression fittings (primo chill and BP) neither fit, am I doing something wrong?


You are removing the compression ring and o-ring and placing it over the tubing before inserting it, correct?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> You are removing the compression ring and o-ring and placing it over the tubing before inserting it, correct?


Compression ring yes O-ring no, lemme test.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I thought / was told that the revolvers and the ghosts where made for acrylic/rigged, at least that's what it said on FCPU and PPC's where I got both from?I ordered from their rigged acrylic section for fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you link me to the proper fittings then?


I'm using rigid revolvers and they work fine on my 1/2" tube.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thems the right ones!!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Compression ring yes O-ring no, lemme test.


Compression ring and O-ring go onto tubing first, then push tubing into the silver base, and slide O-ring and compression ring down and screw right!


----------



## LunaP

Ok it goes in now but I can't tighten it so once I reattach the compression ring back I can just pull it off

I take it I can lock it in after attaching the other side to another fitting?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Compression ring yes O-ring no, lemme test.


Also, there are little tiny wrench flats on the mouth of the silver base to allow you to tool tighten, since otherwise your fingers just slip on the threads.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ok it goes in now but I can't tighten it so once I reattach the compression ring back I can just pull it off
> 
> I take it I can lock it in after attaching the other side to another fitting?


Yes, the silver base part NEEDS to be mounted first, and tightened before you attach tubing and the rest of that fitting.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, the silver base part NEEDS to be mounted first, and tightened before you attach tubing and the rest of that fitting.


Ah ok appreciate it, was just testing it out before I slept, brought 1 tube and a few fittings w/ me to test while waiting, just wanted to get a feel for it. Thanks again! +1


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm using rigid revolvers and they work fine on my 1/2" tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol, where's the motherboard at??

Edit:added spoiler to get B- off my butt.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah ok appreciate it, was just testing it out before I slept, brought 1 tube and a few fittings w/ me to test while waiting, just wanted to get a feel for it. Thanks again! +1


Your welcome, and thanks for the +1, I appreciate it.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, where's the motherboard at??


Waiting on motherboard blocks. They should arrive on thursday.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Waiting on motherboard blocks. They should arrive on thursday.


Cool beans, got a build log going? I should know, but it's late and my brain is in bed already.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Cool beans, got a build log going? I should know, but it's late and my brain is in bed already.


Here's my log. I'm redoing the loop with acrylic tubing and adding another 480monsta on the basement. Oh and motherboard blocks. Open to suggestions

http://www.overclock.net/t/1424663/build-log-aztec-900d-sli-titans-4930k-rive-be-ek-monsta


----------



## B NEGATIVE

C'mon guys,spoiler quote pics and edit previous posts rather than double/triple posting.

These are the rules of the thread,this is for everyones benefit,please try to follow them.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Edit: mobile site version playing tricks


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> C'mon guys,spoiler quote pics and edit previous posts rather than double/triple posting.
> 
> These are the rules of the thread,this is for everyones benefit,please try to follow them.


No spoiler quote available on mobile.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> No spoiler quote available on mobile.


You need to do the spoiler manually in mobile sir. I forget at times to, I just went back and edited it for him.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> C'mon guys,spoiler quote pics and edit previous posts rather than double/triple posting.
> 
> These are the rules of the thread,this is for everyones benefit,please try to follow them.
> 
> 
> 
> No spoiler quote available on mobile.
Click to expand...

Then switch to desktop version. I do it all the time.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Looking for some help and assistance, from anyone who has experience in sub ambient cooling and sub ambient plumbing

http://www.overclock.net/t/1455021/iced-water-box-research-for-now


----------



## Hefner

Guys I would appreciate some opinions. I have bought white Primochill revolver compression fittings for my upcoming rigid acrylic build which are 24mm wide and made for 1/2OD acrylic tubing. My build is SFF so I need some rotary fittings to go along with my fittings.

Here are the 24mm wide fittings(not my picture):


Here is the rotary:


Originally I wanted to go with the 5/8OD (22.2mm) but they aren't in stock ANYWHERE in Europe so I have to get either 1/2OD or 3/4OD.


1/2OD or 3/4OD? I can't decide


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Or just delete the images, or use

Code:



Code:


[spoiler][/spoiler]

But yeah, mobile editing can kind of suck or glitch lately. Desktop on mobile isn't an option for me anymore


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Need some help with these fans,didnt want to post it here....So if anyone has ever used them on rads please let me know if they are any good....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1455026/phobya-nb-eloop-1600rpm-for-radiators


----------



## Buehlar

Hey guys,
Anyone have news on the availibity of Monsoon's new line of riggid compression fitings?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Anyone have news on the availibity of Monsoon's new line of riggid compression fitings?


Very soon! Check the acrylic thread for more info closer the release.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need some help with these fans,didnt want to post it here....So if anyone has ever used them on rads please let me know if they are any good....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455026/phobya-nb-eloop-1600rpm-for-radiators


I use ELoops but the 1300 rpm they are good fans
And really quit but you need to use them in push only


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very soon! Check the acrylic thread for more info closer the release.


Awesome!
Thx B-
+1


----------



## rickyman0319

does ut60 240 equal to st30 360?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> does ut60 240 equal to st30 360?


I guess that if we're talking purely about surface without taking fans or anything else into account it equals to a 480mm ST30


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> does ut60 240 equal to st30 360?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I guess that if we're talking purely about surface without taking fans or anything else into account it equals to a 480mm ST30


^This
Do the math to find the volume of the cooling area
240mm UT60= 120mm * 240mm * 60mm = 1728000mm^3
360mm ST30= 120mm * 360mm * 30mm = 1296000mm^3
480mm ST30= 120mm * 480mm * 30mm = 1728000mm^3


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> ^This
> Do the math to find the volume of the cooling area
> 240mm UT60= 120mm * 240mm * 60mm = 1728000mm^3
> 360mm ST30= 120mm * 360mm * 30mm = 1296000mm^3
> 480mm ST30= 120mm * 480mm * 30mm = 1728000mm^3


Sure you can find the volume of a radiator like this, but it's not like a single 360 monsta has the same cooling capacity as three 360 HWLabs GTS radiators simply because it has three times the depth.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Sure you can find the volume of a radiator like this, but it's not like a single 360 monsta has the same cooling capacity as three 360 HWLabs GTS radiators simply because it has three times the depth.


That's why you do volume instead or area. Volume takes into account thickness. FPI also has to be taken into consideration. But since he was comparing all nexxxos radiators, FPI is close enough to calculate volume and have a rough estimate.

If he has asked about something with high FPI, like a BI GTX rad, and something with low FPI, like a UT60 or RX radiator, then it would be a whole different story with more math involved.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Sure you can find the volume of a radiator like this, but it's not like a single 360 monsta has the same cooling capacity as three 360 HWLabs GTS radiators simply because it has three times the depth.


This. I still wonder if a thick 240(XTX240/RX240) is better than a medium thickness 360(XT360/XT45). Pairing with a SR-1 240


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's why you do volume instead or area. Volume takes into account thickness. FPI also has to be taken into consideration. But since he was comparing all nexxxos radiators, FPI is close enough to calculate volume and have a rough estimate.
> 
> If he has asked about something with high FPI, like a BI GTX rad, and something with low FPI, like a UT60 or RX radiator, then it would be a whole different story with more math involved.


You are quite right that you can compare the area of the fins like this, but it is still my opinion, that you cannot compare the actual cooling capabilities of radiators like this. Depth of the radiator is not nearly as important as the area. I assume it is because when the air travels through the radiator, and picks up energy from the water, the temperature difference of the air and water becomes smaller. The higher the temperature difference is, the faster the transfer of energy. Not that I know much of thermodynamics, but I am under the impression that this is how it works. This is also the reason why stacking radiators has an impact on the performance.

EDIT: As an example:

http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/radthermalbarcharts5.png?w=1228&h=4554

On these charts you see both the XT45 and the UT60. They both come quite close to each other, where the UT60 ought to perform ~25% above than the XT45, if you could simply compare the volume of a radiator.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> You are quite right that you can compare the area of the fins like this, but it is still my opinion, that you cannot compare the actual cooling capabilities of radiators like this. Depth of the radiator is not nearly as important as the area. I assume it is because when the air travels through the radiator, and picks up energy from the water, the temperature difference of the air and water becomes smaller. The higher the temperature difference is, the faster the transfer of energy. Not that I know much of thermodynamics, but I am under the impression that this is how it works. This is also the reason why stacking radiators has an impact on the performance.
> 
> EDIT: As an example:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/radthermalbarcharts5.png?w=1228&h=4554
> 
> On these charts you see both the XT45 and the UT60. They both come quite close to each other, where the UT60 ought to perform ~25% above than the XT45, if you could simply compare the volume of a radiator.


I'm no master of thermodynamics myself, so I'm just going by what I have read here from other members and reviews. Still, fans play a huge role as well, as shown by Martin's reviews. At 600 RPM the ST30 beats the UT60 because there isn't enough airflow to get through the extra thickness of the UT60. But bump it up to 1400 RPM and the tables have turned. The UT60 outperforms the ST60 but quite a bit because of the extra airflow. This, to me anyway, says that thickness does play somewhat of a large role in determining cooling capacity.

But, since ricky's question was so vague it's hard to give an adequate answer.


----------



## LunaP

This is why I grabbed the UT-60's they seem to be well rounded in most areas and hold well from low and up.


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This is why I grabbed the UT-60's they seem to be well rounded in most areas and hold well from low and up.


So...you like splitters right? lol


----------



## morencyam

Splitter boards like that make things so much easier. I went a different route with my radiator fans though. I cut the fan wires to be about 2" off the fan frame and made a cable harness with four males and one female to run back to the fan controller.
You can see the short fan cables here

And here is the cable harness


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This is why I grabbed the UT-60's they seem to be well rounded in most areas and hold well from low and up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice build as i see you use a fan hub for ap15s .Are they going to run fullspeed with these fan hubs?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This is why I grabbed the UT-60's they seem to be well rounded in most areas and hold well from low and up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a pretty serious Manga/Anime collection you have there.


----------



## NavDigitalStorm

Heres another water-cooled rig for you guys!


----------



## Kurodragon

Just finished leak testing my first WC build. Seems good so far! I will forever be nervous about leaks.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> Just finished leak testing my first WC build. Seems good so far! I will forever be nervous about leaks.


I hope its just the lighting but the coolant in the res looks kinda...not so white


----------



## Kurodragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I hope its just the lighting but the coolant in the res looks kinda...not so white




Definitely the lighting and maybe my phone. Want to upgrade from a Galaxy Nexus to a Nexus 5 sometime soon.


----------



## Belial

About to purchase the parts for my replace tubing + add reservoir to the corsair h110 (attached to cpu here, dont mind the blue tubing wrap on it or messy cables, it's nowhere close to done here).

Now here's my question, an aesthetic one. Should i get the Black nickel (ie dark gray/chrome colored) Phobya balancer, or the black one?

Gray would really go with my Blue/Gray themed build, but the problem is my block and rad are black so... I'm worried it'd look a little weird with like a black block and res with black clamps, and then the phobya res is dark gray with dark gray fittings and clamps on it (i could put black fittings on it, sure, i think dark gray would look better then black on it though).

I'd have to anodize some clamps to be dark gray for the res if i went the dark gray res route, which I'm prepared to do. I care more about the final outcome then how much it will suck anodizing 2 tiny pieces of metal that i have to remove the original anodize on...


----------



## royce5950

to who ever I informed about the alphacool reservoors. this is what you will want to get. I paid 6.50 for one. thos is only for the cape cyclone alphacool 250ml rev. 2


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Some new pics of the daily driver...







I never get bored of her....the moody cow that she is.....


----------



## kpoeticg

@Belial , you have your loop reversed. You should have your res feeding your pump. So Res -> Pump/Block -> Rad -> Res

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need some help with these fans,didnt want to post it here....So if anyone has ever used them on rads please let me know if they are any good....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455026/phobya-nb-eloop-1600rpm-for-radiators


They're incredible fans. Definitely better than "good"


----------



## stickg1

Watercooling is so sweet..

Lol, trying to **** of work. My fittings are on my door step...

I think I might have a stomach bug out of the blue, wink wink!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Tell them you accidentally ingested some Mayhems Dye or PT Nuke or something.


----------



## stickg1

A couple more pieces of wood to put up and I'm rolling it up. Looks like rain, wouldn't want my miter box getting wet!


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Splitter boards like that make things so much easier. I went a different route with my radiator fans though. I cut the fan wires to be about 2" off the fan frame and made a cable harness with four males and one female to run back to the fan controller.
> You can see the short fan cables here
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the cable harness


That is what I'm doing as well. You can also buy premade cables like that from Dazmode:

http://www.dazmode.com/store/search/?query=radiator+fan+power+splitter&records=16&x=-446&y=-164


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> That is what I'm doing as well. You can also buy premade cables like that from Dazmode:
> 
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/search/?query=radiator+fan+power+splitter&records=16&x=-446&y=-164


Very true. I chose to make my own so I could make my own length and it was cheaper. Plus I just like making things like that myself. And the build I'm using them in I wanted to make as many things as I could myself. Scratch to the max!


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Very true. I chose to make my own so I could make my own length and it was cheaper. Plus I just like making things like that myself. And the build I'm using them in I wanted to make as many things as I could myself. Scratch to the max!


Yours look great! I took the easy way out as I can barely get the time to work on the rig as is. I still will have to learn to do some cabling, though, as I need to cut and shrink the cables coming off of the AP-14s.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Yours look great! I took the easy way out as I can barely get the time to work on the rig as is. I still will have to learn to do some cabling, though, as I need to cut and shrink the cables coming off of the AP-14s.


Thanks. I made the harnesses about two months ago and are still not in use. Goes to show how much time I have to work on my build as well lol

Shortening the cables is fairly easy. You can either cut the wire and crimp on new pins or cut the pins off leaving about an inch of wire, trim the wire from the fan, then resolder the old pins back on then use heatshrink so nothing shorts. I ran out of new pins so I just soldered mine.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> I use ELoops but the 1300 rpm they are good fans
> And really quit but you need to use them in push only


That's what i was afraid of,i really wanted to use them in push/pull on my bottom rad....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> They're incredible fans. Definitely better than "good"


How are these compared to the AP-15's....?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> That's what i was afraid of,i really wanted to use them in push/pull on my bottom rad....
> How are these compared to the AP-15's....?


AP-15's are better fans

I have 14 AP-15's in one rig
And 11 eLoops in the second rig

so I can tell you for me the AP-15's are the better performing fans

but the eLoops look a lot nicer


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> AP-15's are better fans
> 
> I have 14 AP-15's in one rig
> And 11 eLoops in the second rig
> 
> so I can tell you for me the AP-15's are the better performing fans
> 
> but the eLoops look a lot nicer


Thanks for the quick reply,is it safe to assume you run the e-loops in push only....


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply,is it safe to assume you run the e-loops in push only....


yes you can look at my rigs in my profile

the eloops are in push on a 480 monsta and 480 black ice SR 1

the AP-15's are in push pull on a 480 Monsta and a Black ice GTX 480


----------



## kpoeticg

E-Loops are "meant" to be run in push only. The blades bulge out the front a "TINY" bit. Most people use shrouds/gaskets on their rads anyway.

The blade design also makes them quieter in push.

AP-15's are better than almost any rad fan. E-Loops are incredible though. I also say they're not quite as good as GT's but not far off


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> E-Loops are "meant" to be run in push only. The blades bulge out the front a "TINY" bit. Most people use shrouds/gaskets on their rads anyway.
> The blade design also makes them quieter in push.
> 
> AP-15's are better than almost any rad fan. E-Loops are incredible though. I also say they're not quite as good as GT's but not far off


yup they are good fans but he is looking for push pull so I say go with AP-15's and be don with it he wont regret it

not only that they are cheaper than eLoops

the only down side to AP-15's is that they don't look as good as other fans out there


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> E-Loops are "meant" to be run in push only. The blades bulge out the front a "TINY" bit. Most people use shrouds/gaskets on their rads anyway.
> The blade design also makes them quieter in push.
> 
> AP-15's are better than almost any rad fan. E-Loops are incredible though. I also say they're not quite as good as GT's but not far off


Would this gasket give enough space to run them in pull....?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22351&cPath=1366


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Would this gasket give enough space to run them in pull....?
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22351&cPath=1366


they can run without any shroud .But these fans arent design for push and pull configuration and make noise
watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uI-9tMojDhM


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Would this gasket give enough space to run them in pull....?
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22351&cPath=1366


You're probably better off using the eLoops as push and AP15's in pull. Aesthetically it wouldn't matter since the back is nothing special of those fans and it is likely to lessen resonance 'problems'


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> You're probably better off using the eLoops as push and AP15's in pull. Aesthetically it wouldn't matter since the back is nothing special of those fans and it is likely to lessen resonance 'problems'


that is not good at all mate

never mix up fans they run deferent and will make nose and not cool like they would with the same fans


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> that is not good at all mate
> 
> never mix up fans they run deferent and will make nose and not cool like they would with the same fans


I've heard different opinions about this. The push fan can effect the way the pull fan operates, but only by making it's life 'easier'. With both running at 12v the pull fan might run a little over it's rated maximum rpm but other than that nothing really changes.
You of course shouldn't use two fans that are completely different (pressure/flow-wise) but I believe I've seen someone post a rig here quite a while back using the eLoops in push and AP15's in pull. He didn't experience any problems with it and was pleased with the performance.

Fans don't do anything more than grabbing air and pushing it forward. Turbulence from another fan before it might change it's efficiency but a radiator is almost an ideal medium to straighten out the airflow.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> that is not good at all mate
> 
> never mix up fans they run deferent and will make nose and not cool like they would with the same fans


That's not true. You can mix fans as long as they're not far apart in RPM's


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's not true. You can mix fans as long as they're not far apart in RPM's


RPMs and CFMs!


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's not true. You can mix fans as long as they're not far apart in RPM's


I have my own experience with mixing fans
And reviewer that say what I'm saying
This is IMO not a good way to go
You are welcome to do as you pleas
This is my 2 cents


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> RPMs and CFMs!


Yeah, i wouldn't mix crappy chassis fans with good rad fans for instance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> I have my own experience with mixing fans
> And reviewer that say what I'm saying
> This is IMO not a good way to go
> You are welcome to do as you pleas
> This is my 2 cents


Well this is one of the only reviewers i actually trust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Absolutely, I encourage mixing of fans and have done it many times. The mixing fan phobia generate by forum members is really just another forum myth by users not knowing. I have yet to see any testing to show it being a problem. Actually I have found mixing two different fans to be a benefit at times. When testing the H220 I found two AP15s plus two Helix to be a great match. The helix alone seemed to have a little harmonic under pressure in push only that goes away and smooths out when the GTs were added. Also anytime you mix like fan speeds you can get rpm harmonics so having fans at speeds that are a few hundred off is a good thing.
> 
> Noctua even does mixing of fans and speeds on their NH-D14.
> 
> While it may not make sense to mix 5000rpm Deltas with 1200rpm yates, I sure wouldn't worry about 500rpm differences particularly when resistance like a radiator is keeping air flows well below either fans max air flow rate. Mixing fans is a good thing..


----------



## morencyam

Martin and Bundy are the only reviewers I trust. If Martin says it's okay to mix fans then I have no reason to doubt it. I'll be using GT AP-00's as push and CM R4's for pull. I've seen various other users do the same thing, not necessarily with R4's and GT's but GT's and e-Loops, and have had no issues at all.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm using Eloops push GT's pull in my build. Haven't tested yet tho. I just tend to believe what martin says.

...Bundy too.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm using Eloops push GT's pull in my build. Haven't tested yet tho. I just tend to believe what martin says.
> 
> ...Bundy too.


I completely agree with both of you. Martin and Bundy have some of the most scientific testing methods in the industry. That's why their tests are trusted because they can be perfectly replicated. As a former reviewer I can attest to the fact that most reviewers don't use very scientific or easily replicated methods.


----------



## Panzerfury

I just got my new sidepanel for the Phantom 630:





Sorry about the quality. I'm using my HTC one as a camera








I will uploade a picture with the lights off at some point.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I completely agree with both of you. Martin and Bundy have some of the most scientific testing methods in the industry. That's why their tests are trusted because they can be perfectly replicated. As a former reviewer I can attest to the fact that most reviewers don't use very scientific or easily replicated methods.


Yeah it's actually pretty unfortunate. With great reviews being sold to the highest bidder everywhere you look, and great reviewers like martin relying on people from OCN to send him products to test, it ends up not being worth it for the quality reviewers.

Edit: We all need to put together a "SaveWalterWhite.com" for Martin to revive his interest in testing


----------



## rickyman0319

I want to know if I can have 2 resevior with different color in a single loop.

For example:

yellow (resevior 1) and red (other resevior) -> cpu block -> gpu block - rad 1 -> rad 2 -> pump -> reseevior...


----------



## snef

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-9_zpsec8bc32a.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-10_zps18750593.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-12_zpsdab1921b.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-7_zpse2511d3e.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini_zps0953da6b.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

A single loop means all the coolant will mix. You can have 2 reservoirs in one loop. And you can have 2 colors in one loop by using colored tubing and reservoirs. But 2 separate coolants = dual loop. Why not just run a dual loop?

Edit: Aquacomputer makes Dual Circuit AMS rads that you can use 1 rad for 2 loops if rad space is the problem. But you have 2 rads listed in your loop....

Edit: @snef


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I want to know if I can have 2 resevior with different color in a single loop.
> 
> For example:
> 
> yellow (resevior 1) and red (other resevior) -> cpu block -> gpu block - rad 1 -> rad 2 -> pump -> reseevior...


Only if you buy colored reservoir , like primochill CTR xxx or Bitspower Z-tank.


----------



## kcuestag

Got some EK goodies on the way:

3x EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel (One for my 2nd GPU which is block-less, the other two for a friend)
1x EK-FC Terminal Triple Serial
1x EK-FC Terminal Blank Serial
1x EK-FC Terinal Dual Serial 3-Slot (For a friend)
1x EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black
3m of Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 16/11mm (Or 16/12mm in EK's site







) Clear.

Can't wait to recieve them, I feel like my 290's are going to make my computer levitate right now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Can't wait to recieve them, I feel like my 290's are going to make my computer levitate right now.


I know what you mean about levitating. We were testing a stock 290 this morning for one of the systems that we're taking to CES with us. When we put the fan at 100% it sounded like there was a 747 getting ready to taxi out of the office. I've heard that they can be loud, but I never imagined that they were that loud.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I know what you mean about levitating. We were testing a stock 290 this morning for one of the systems that we're taking to CES with us. When we put the fan at 100% it sounded like there was a 747 getting ready to taxi out of the office. I've heard that they can be loud, but I never imagined that they were that loud.


That's one card, now imagine both of my cards which are on air (Only got one block so far, waiting for 2nd to arrive







), they are double 747.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's one card, now imagine both of my cards which are on air (Only got one block so far, waiting for 2nd to arrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), they are double 747.


I can't imagine what two of those would sound like. Those 290s were made to be water cooled and that's really all you can do about it. It's a good thing I'm in the water cooling business.


----------



## kingcrispy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavDigitalStorm*
> 
> If you guys are interested, I can post ore pics of some of our custom loops.


Please do. I could use some inspiration to make this winter a little cooler







.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-9_zpsec8bc32a.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-10_zps18750593.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-12_zpsdab1921b.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini-7_zpse2511d3e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/sand of god/fini_zps0953da6b.jpg.html


love it really nice work


----------



## morencyam

I really need to learn how to sew my cables like that. I've watched a few tutorial videos but couldn't get it down. Might be time to give it another shot


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> nice build as i see you use a fan hub for ap15s .Are they going to run fullspeed with these fan hubs?


Gonna plug em into a fan controller, tested them out earlier didn't hear a thing though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> [/spoiler]That's a pretty serious Manga/Anime collection you have there.


lol I'll post it up eventually in my build log people have been asking haha.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I know what you mean about levitating. We were testing a stock 290 this morning for one of the systems that we're taking to CES with us. When we put the fan at 100% it sounded like there was a 747 getting ready to taxi out of the office. I've heard that they can be loud, but I never imagined that they were that loud.


You should try running a rack mount server or three at the crib.

So I can't help but notice the popularity of Alpha Cool rads here. I loved my single 120 that I've tried so far (mini-itx build) but am wondering if they are truly significantly better than most if not all of the competition or if its partly just a trendy brand right now (for lack of a better term)?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You should try running a rack mount server or three at the crib.
> 
> So I can't help but notice the popularity of Alpha Cool rads here. I loved my single 120 that I've tried so far (mini-itx build) but am wondering if they are truly significantly better than most if not all of the competition or if its partly just a trendy brand right now (for lack of a better term)?


Read for yourself, http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/


----------



## morencyam

I think the popularity has a lot to do with the performance to price ratio. Plus the additional features not typically seen in other radiators like extra ports, bleeding port, and fin guards beneath the fan screw holes. Not to mention all the different sizes they offer


----------



## szeged

the fin guard and tons of ports are what originally had me sold on the UT60s, then i got to thinking and decided that UT60s wouldnt make much of a dent in a sth10, so i went with monstas


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the fin guard and tons of ports are what originally had me sold on the UT60s, then i got to thinking and decided that UT60s wouldnt make much of a dent in a sth10, so i went with monstas


If you use 5 of them they make a pretty big dent, lol.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If you use 5 of them they make a pretty big dent, lol.


true







i was starting to think the sth10 was too small for me







but i did a little pack rat maneuvering and squeezed everything in.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> true
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i was starting to think the sth10 was too small for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i did a little pack rat maneuvering and squeezed everything in.


Hehe, STH10 too small







, my TH10 is also getting a bit too small for me too


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hehe, STH10 too small
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , my TH10 is also getting a bit too small for me too


when i was shoving the monstas in here i was wishing i got a TX10 instead of the sth10


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So I can't help but notice the popularity of Alpha Cool rads here. I loved my single 120 that I've tried so far (mini-itx build) but am wondering if they are truly significantly better than most if not all of the competition or if its partly just a trendy brand right now (for lack of a better term)?


Like others have said... Main reason I'll be going with them is their excellent price/performance ratio, the sizing options (30, 45, 60, and 80/Monster), multiple ports, bleed port, and screw guards.

...In other things...
Jeez, you guys are talking about how an STH10 is too small and here I am contemplating seeing just how much I could cram into an S5 without making it look cluttered >.>


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> That's what i was afraid of,i really wanted to use them in *push/pull* on my bottom rad....
> How are these compared to the AP-15's....?


use some 2-3mm washers between the eloops configured to pull, and the radiator so the blades don't scrape


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> when i was shoving the monstas in here i was wishing i got a TX10 instead of the sth10


Monsta rads, so overkill, it kills space in a second







. Meh, I really want to design my case w/ the layout that's ideal for me. I have a few sketches but nothing serious. Maybe make it out of aluminum w/ acrylic.


----------



## Jump3r

It just fits. Lol the dual D5 pump top takes my bottom 2 drive bays. The top 480 rad fittings take the top drive bay.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Monsta rads, so overkill, it kills space in a second
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Meh, I really want to design my case w/ the layout that's ideal for me. I have a few sketches but nothing serious. Maybe make it out of aluminum w/ acrylic.


i wish we had the acrylic master here to make some custom ones


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hehe, STH10 too small
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , my TH10 is also getting a bit too small for me too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> when i was shoving the monstas in here i was wishing i got a TX10 instead of the sth10


LOL I"m worried about that w/ my TH10 with the way things are going. Though I think adding a pedestal and or ped + riser to the TH10 would be Good enough for most of us. Just realized that the drive cages someone linked me to are for standard PSU side and NOT reverse, I'm not sure there ARE drive bay cages for the PSU side on a reverse setup... so now I have 3 cages I can't use, there's gotta be something that fits in there. Else this is gonna mess my theme up a bit.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wish we had the acrylic master here to make some custom ones


I got the privilege of speaking to the great Syrillian before he passed. What a great gentleman and gave me lots of ideas and help in working with acrylic. There's a few metal shops nearby and I have a plastics company close too. I'm mainly worried about my machinery and cutting skills. I need to master how to do things properly. Like straight cuts. My little bro took wood-shop through out high school so I need to hit him up on some lessons.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got the privilege of speaking to the great Syrillian before he passed. What a great gentleman and gave me lots of ideas and help in working with acrylic. There's a few metal shops nearby and I have a plastics company close too. I'm mainly worried about my machinery and cutting skills. I need to master how to do things properly. Like straight cuts. My little bro took wood-shop through out high school so I need to hit him up on some lessons.


i wish i got to meet him









I can pretty much do anything with steel, iron, aluminum, copper etc etc etc i got all the tools i would ever need to do anything, but when it comes to acrylic i go full derp


----------



## stickg1

I did a little work on my build today. Swapped out the mismatching fittings and put in all shining silver. Re-routed some of the tubing, put in all new tubing instead of the used scraps I had before, replaced the old res tube with a brand new (scratch and stain free) tube, and moved one of the QDC's to the back and attached it to a T-block on a male-male rotary fitting for easier draining. Later this week I have one more radiator to add (Alphacool ST30 120mm to put in the bottom fan slot), a couple more fittings to tidy things up some more, and new matching fans..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wish i got to meet him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can pretty much do anything with steel, iron, aluminum, copper etc etc etc i got all the tools i would ever need to do anything, but when it comes to acrylic i go full derp


I just go at it and don't bother with the edge guides and stuff. With my rebuild of my desk, knowing how fragile the veneer was on the plywood, i took my time and used a drywall edge clamped down. Worked great, for once







.


----------



## rascas

Just finished my build, a few shots





The cable sleeving is hard to do on Enermax psu's so not as nice as what i wanted and i may also redo the tubing going to the top video card to lower that bend. But pretty happy with it.
Acrylic FTW.


----------



## wermad

Looks great


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> LOL I"m worried about that w/ my TH10 with the way things are going. Though I think adding a pedestal and or ped + riser to the TH10 would be Good enough for most of us. Just realized that the drive cages someone linked me to are for standard PSU side and NOT reverse, I'm not sure there ARE drive bay cages for the PSU side on a reverse setup... so now I have 3 cages I can't use, there's gotta be something that fits in there. Else this is gonna mess my theme up a bit.


Lol, dude, just rotate them 180 on their axis, ALL accessories will work, standard layout or reverse!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, dude, just rotate them 180 on their axis, ALL accessories will work, standard layout or reverse!!


I was just thinking of this when i read the same post in the CL thread


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Just finished my build, a few shots
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cable sleeving is hard to do on Enermax psu's so not as nice as what i wanted and i may also redo the tubing going to the top video card to lower that bend. But pretty happy with it.
> Acrylic FTW.


That's gorgeous, what case is that?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Just finished my build, a few shots
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cable sleeving is hard to do on Enermax psu's so not as nice as what i wanted and i may also redo the tubing going to the top video card to lower that bend. But pretty happy with it.
> Acrylic FTW.


Looks great


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's gorgeous, what case is that?


Looks like a Caselabs M8


----------



## stickg1

I like how it has room for all the goodies but isn't 4ft tall like some of the other cases. Something like that would fit nice on top of my desk and house even more rads.

I know my work is pretty amateur but I would like to get some advice or critique on what I could change to make it stand out a little more. I still am adding to it but this what I did with it today.



Spoiler: My previous post with a few pictures of revision two of my current loop



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I did a little work on my build today. Swapped out the mismatching fittings and put in all shining silver. Re-routed some of the tubing, put in all new tubing instead of the used scraps I had before, replaced the old res tube with a brand new (scratch and stain free) tube, and moved one of the QDC's to the back and attached it to a T-block on a male-male rotary fitting for easier draining. Later this week I have one more radiator to add (Alphacool ST30 120mm to put in the bottom fan slot), a couple more fittings to tidy things up some more, and new matching fans..


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I like how it has room for all the goodies but isn't 4ft tall like some of the other cases. Something like that would fit nice on top of my desk and house even more rads.
> 
> I know my work is pretty amateur but I would like to get some advice or critique on what I could change to make it stand out a little more. I still am adding to it but this what I did with it today.


I think the only 4ft tall cases are the STH10 and TX-10 respectfully.


----------



## Maximus Knight

May i find out besides unicronhunter who else uses the photon res, anyone else does too? I really have trouble making up my mind between the EK X3 150 and the Photon 170. Love the look of the Photon but hate the fact there isnt any 90 dergree facing ports like the EK variant. Much appreciated!


----------



## rascas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Looks like a Caselabs M8


Yep its a caselabs m8, will have some pictures of the other side once its a bit neater


----------



## rickyman0319

me too, I want to see both side. since I got one also.

how do u put the reservoir on the panel? do u any mod?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> me too, I want to see both side. since I got one also.
> 
> how do u put the reservoir on the panel? do u any mod?


Assuming you mean that front panel, it's a 120.3 Flex bay rad mount.


----------



## rascas

I just drilled two holes, measured twice drilled once.

The other side is where it gets a little ugly, still have to finish lighting and try make the cables neater.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i love winter, clean rads and fans, an open window, and the girlfriend gone for a couple days.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i love winter, clean rads and fans, an open window, and the girlfriend gone for a couple days.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Didn't win the silicon lottery with that one huh, 1.424v ouch. Is it stable? Just wondering, and what mobo you using?


----------



## pc-illiterate

p8p67 evo
good enough lottery, it boots 5.2ghz and 5ghz stable but at 1.5v
runs 4.7 26 hours p95 stable 1.425v and 4.5ghz 23 hours p95 stable at 1.320-1.328v

im just loving the temps. 670s are idling at 15 and 16*C lol

*EDIT* - xspc water temp senser broke. technically i broke it. im hoping they will replace it.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Just finished my build, a few shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> The cable sleeving is hard to do on Enermax psu's so not as nice as what i wanted and i may also redo the tubing going to the top video card to lower that bend. But pretty happy with it.
> Acrylic FTW.


Love it! Great looking build buddy!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> p8p67 evo
> good enough lottery, it boots 5.2ghz and 5ghz stable but at 1.5v
> runs 4.7 26 hours p95 stable 1.425v and 4.5ghz 23 hours p95 stable at 1.320-1.328v
> 
> im just loving the temps. 670s are idling at 15 and 16*C lol
> 
> *EDIT* - xspc water temp senser broke. technically i broke it. im hoping they will replace it.


Cool.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> May i find out besides unicronhunter who else uses the photon res, anyone else does too? I really have trouble making up my mind between the EK X3 150 and the Photon 170. Love the look of the Photon but hate the fact there isnt any 90 dergree facing ports like the EK variant. Much appreciated!


I have a Photon 170 but don't have my loop running yet. My build still has a ways to go. The Photon's build quality is great. The glass tube and steel mounting bracket are top quality. I'm considering switching out for a FrozenQ Tri Spiral just for aesthetic reasons, but i'd definitely recommend the Photon to anybody.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I have a Photon 170 but don't have my loop running yet. My build still has a ways to go. The Photon's build quality is great. The glass tube and steel mounting bracket are top quality. I'm considering switching out for a FrozenQ Tri Spiral just for aesthetic reasons, but i'd definitely recommend the Photon to anybody.


I can get the Photon 170 for the same price as the X3 150 hence i thought id ask around first. Having some trouble with the config as i wanna use a mini valve for one of the ports to drain. Unfortunately the pump top i bought has no extra ports for drain. Got to love it tho, the old XSPC for ddc. Full acrylic









Guess ill go for the Photon


----------



## ikem

what do you guys think of this

while folding on the cpu and mining on the gpus:

CPUs hover around 40C and the GPUs around 36C on the cores. VRMs are around 68C (this is the one I am uncertain on) and mem around 48-51C

Dual Xeon 2650s and Dual 7870 Hawks everything stock.

EK Supreme HFs on the CPUs, and EK Supremecy VGAs on the 7870s, with the stock mem and VRM heatsink.

EX360 with 3 Blade Masters @ 100% (not that loud actually...)

I would like to know if the VRM temps are normal.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> what do you guys think of this
> 
> while folding on the cpu and mining on the gpus:
> 
> CPUs hover around 40C and the GPUs around 36C on the cores. VRMs are around 68C (this is the one I am uncertain on) and mem around 48-51C
> 
> Dual Xeon 2650s and Dual 7870 Hawks everything stock.
> 
> EK Supreme HFs on the CPUs, and EK Supremecy VGAs on the 7870s, with the stock mem and VRM heatsink.
> 
> EX360 with 3 Blade Masters @ 100% (not that loud actually...)
> 
> I would like to know if the VRM temps are normal.


The temps are normal,don't worry.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I can get the Photon 170 for the same price as the X3 150 hence i thought id ask around first. Having some trouble with the config as i wanna use a mini valve for one of the ports to drain. Unfortunately the pump top i bought has no extra ports for drain. Got to love it tho, the old XSPC for ddc. Full acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess ill go for the Photon


Maybe consider getting the Photon/D5 combo. I'm pretty sure that has its ports on the side. It has the 3 ports plus it's connected to a pump so you'll have extra ports


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Maybe consider getting the Photon/D5 combo. I'm pretty sure that has its ports on the side. It has the 3 ports plus it's connected to a pump so you'll have extra ports


Photon D5 combo has just 3 ports. 2 in and 1 out.



It also has a fill port in the top, but it's not made to be used as an inlet.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Photon D5 combo has just 3 ports. 2 in and 1 out.
> 
> 
> 
> It also has a fill port in the top, but it's not made to be used as an inlet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Maybe consider getting the Photon/D5 combo. I'm pretty sure that has its ports on the side. It has the 3 ports plus it's connected to a pump so you'll have extra ports


I use a DDC. The photon for non pump included has 3 ports but all underneath the res


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> what do you guys think of this
> 
> while folding on the cpu and mining on the gpus:
> 
> CPUs hover around 40C and the GPUs around 36C on the cores. VRMs are around 68C (this is the one I am uncertain on) and mem around 48-51C
> 
> Dual Xeon 2650s and Dual 7870 Hawks everything stock.
> 
> EK Supreme HFs on the CPUs, and EK Supremecy VGAs on the 7870s, with the stock mem and VRM heatsink.
> 
> EX360 with 3 Blade Masters @ 100% (not that loud actually...)
> 
> I would like to know if the VRM temps are normal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The temps are normal,don't worry.


Sub 70C VRM temps are A-OK. personally, I'd like to see better, assuming a FC waterblock and thermal pads, but either way sub 70C is perfectly fine.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I think the only 4ft tall cases are the STH10 and TX-10 respectfully.


4ft tall







Wow, I could fit my current computer inside of that and still have enough room to build a small "kitty corner" for my cat to hang out in.


----------



## Buehlar

Hey guys,
I've been searching high n low for a 280mm crossflow rad (dual 140).
No luck with finding one so far.
Do they even exist?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Maybe consider getting the Photon/D5 combo. I'm pretty sure that has its ports on the side. It has the 3 ports plus it's connected to a pump so you'll have extra ports
> 
> 
> 
> Photon D5 combo has just 3 ports. 2 in and 1 out.
> 
> 
> 
> It also has a fill port in the top, but it's not made to be used as an inlet.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I use a DDC. The photon for non pump included has 3 ports but all underneath the res


Yes, that was my point. Regular Photon has 3 ports, one of which is used to connect to your pump. Photon/D5 Combo has 3 ports and is already connected to your pump. Hence, extra ports =)

I didn't realize that 2 were inlet ports tho


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yes, that was my point. Regular Photon has 3 ports, one of which is used to connect to your pump. Photon/D5 Combo has 3 ports and is already connected to your pump. Hence, extra ports =)
> 
> I didn't realize that 2 were inlet ports tho


Ye it has 3 but not facing you..its on the bottom







i have a valve and a male to male fitting but now i need additional clearance between my pump top and the the res to fit a 90 degree along with the valve underneath ._.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Ye it has 3 but not facing you..its on the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have a valve and a male to male fitting but now i need additional clearance between my pump top and the the res to fit a 90 degree along with the valve underneath ._.




Those look like the side to me...

Are you not following me? I'm saying if you want the Photon but also need extra ports, then maybe you should change from Photon + DDC to Photon/D5 combo. That way, not only are the ports on the side like you want, but you also save a port because the res is the pump top.

Obviously maybe you have other reasons for not wanting to do that, i just feel like maybe u weren't following me


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Those look like the side to me...
> Are you not following me? I'm saying if you want the Photon but also need extra ports, then maybe you should change from Photon + DDC to Photon/D5 combo. That way, not only are the ports on the side like you want, but you also save a port because the res is the pump top.
> 
> Obviously maybe you have other reasons for not wanting to do that, i just feel like maybe u weren't following me


Whoops! I didnt get the swap from DDC to D5 part! My bad! Aiks! I think ill find a way around it!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I've been searching high n low for a 280mm crossflow rad (dual 140).
> No luck with finding one so far.
> Do they even exist?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Danger-Den-Black-Ice-GTS-240-XF-Radiator-with-G1-4-Fittings-/310779644791?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item485be90b77


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Danger-Den-Black-Ice-GTS-240-XF-Radiator-with-G1-4-Fittings-/310779644791?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item485be90b77


Hey, thanx bud, but I can buy the BI or XSPC 240 crossflow from PPCS or F-CPU.
I'm looking for a 280.
Does anyone make a 280 crossflow?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey, thanx bud, but I can buy the BI or XSPC 240 crossflow from PPCS or F-CPU.
> I'm looking for a 280.
> Does anyone make a 280 crossflow?


doh, sorry i thought that said 280 instead of 240







sorry i tried lol.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> doh, sorry i thought that said 280 instead of 240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry i tried lol.


NP man +REP for the effort








Any clue if a 280 crossflow even exists? Might just have to settle for the 240...
Not a huge deal...I just wanted the extra surface area because I have the room for a 280 so I was hoping somebody made one.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> NP man +REP for the effort
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any clue if a 280 crossflow even exists? Might just have to settle for the 240...
> Not a huge deal...I just wanted the extra surface area because I have the room for a 280 so I was hoping somebody made one.


not sure, ive never used crossflow rads


----------



## phillyd

I just finished an in-depth review of the Larkooler SkyWater 330 water cooling kit. Check it out *here*!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Just finished my build, a few shots
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cable sleeving is hard to do on Enermax psu's so not as nice as what i wanted and i may also redo the tubing going to the top video card to lower that bend. But pretty happy with it.
> Acrylic FTW.


looks perfect







what size of tubing and fittings did you use?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey, thanx bud, but I can buy the BI or XSPC 240 crossflow from PPCS or F-CPU.
> I'm looking for a 280.
> Does anyone make a 280 crossflow?
> 
> 
> 
> doh, sorry i thought that said 280 instead of 240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry i tried lol.
Click to expand...

I tried some google-fu and there's really only one reference to a GTS 280 X Flow i could find

http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=26279708


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The temps are normal,don't worry.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Sub 70C VRM temps are A-OK. personally, I'd like to see better, assuming a FC waterblock and thermal pads, but either way sub 70C is perfectly fine.


thanks guys, it isht a FC block, just a uni block.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Read for yourself, http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/


Yes thanks I have looked at that and an aware that Martin-and Bundy-are the good, respected reviewers. Martins are so good I frankly have a little trouble following his data plus I was really looking more for opinion and anecdotal evidence here anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Like others have said... Main reason I'll be going with them is their excellent price/performance ratio, the sizing options (30, 45, 60, and 80/Monster), multiple ports, bleed port, and screw guards.


Well yeah the Monsta speaks for itself. But I wasn't aware of some of those other mentioned features (besides screw guard; can't believe others don't do that too). I thought the allure was mainly the cooling perf, if anything. So cool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I can pretty much do anything with steel, iron, aluminum, copper etc etc etc i got all the tools i would ever need to do anything, but when it comes to acrylic i go full derp


I know nothing about acrylic yet but is it so different as plastic softens with heat?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Just finished my build, a few shots
> The cable sleeving is hard to do on Enermax psu's so not as nice as what i wanted and i may also redo the tubing going to the top video card to lower that bend. But pretty happy with it.
> Acrylic FTW.


Very nice indeed. Love the use of 45 rotary to 90 rotary; never occurred to me I could do that (derp).


----------



## Dzuks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Just finished my build, a few shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cable sleeving is hard to do on Enermax psu's so not as nice as what i wanted and i may also redo the tubing going to the top video card to lower that bend. But pretty happy with it.
> Acrylic FTW.






Lovely build dude... And great space management in that CL M8...


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Happy New Year guys and gals.... My wife was asking about my new years resolutions, and after naming a few things to her, she sneakily mentions, how about spending less on your pc....Honestly didnt think she had noticed how much I have spent so far....


----------



## pc-illiterate

just because i woman doesnt say anything doesnt mean she doesnt notice. i changed rad fans and she knew. the yates are so much quieter than the excaliburs. "youre playing bf3. why isnt your computer hurting my ears?"
"uh, i spent a little money buying a radiator." "oh, thats where all the money went..."


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> just because i woman doesnt say anything doesnt mean she doesnt notice. i changed rad fans and she knew. the yates are so much quieter than the excaliburs. "youre playing bf3. why isnt your computer hurting my ears?"
> "uh, i spent a little money buying a radiator." "oh, thats where all the money went..."


True....

Anyway happy new year everyone!
Live longer, laugh louder and spend harder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Happy New Year guys and gals.... My wife was asking about my new years resolutions, and after naming a few things to her, she sneakily mentions, how about spending less on your pc....Honestly didnt think she had noticed how much I have spent so far....


They always notice everything, lol


----------



## dade_kash_xD

I just completed my rig with the XSPC photon 170 w/ D5 pump, and what everyone says here is true. It is a great pump/reservoir combo and the build quality is phenomenal. It is very impressive to see a company not skimp out on quality parts and still make an affordable product. Kudos to XSPC on this one! This is my first watercooling rig and I couldn't have done it without the OCN community. Any ideas or suggestions as to what else I can do to enhance the aesthetics of my build would be greatly appreciated!

Idle temps: 28c w/ room air conditioner on / 31c with room air conditioner off
Load temps: 48c w/ room air conditioner on / 57c with room air conditioner off

Last couple things I have left to do on my list:


Add Primochill Utopia Treatment (Blood Red) with Blood Red Intensifier
Sleeve miscellaneous cables (fans, LED cables, etc) with white sleeving & black heatshrink
Add a 12" horizontal + 9" vertical white LED strip behind motherboard to give it a nice backlit glow
Switch out the 2 SP120 quiet edition fans on my 240mm radiator with SP120 high performance fans. *Big difference in temperatures between quiet edition and performance edition Corsair SP120 fans!*

I'm debating on whether or not I should add a fan controller. I don't really see the need considering that these r9-290's put out so much heat that I really need my Corsair SP120 fans blowing full speed in order to maintain reliable temperatures.

Like I said guys, thanks! If you can give me any other ideas as to what I can do to make this build look cooler, by all means, I am open to suggestion!


----------



## pc-illiterate

without a fan controller, those sp120s will make your ears bleed when your room is quiet.


----------



## dade_kash_xD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> without a fan controller, those sp120s will make your ears bleed when your room is quiet.


Not really man. I think the Corsair 750D case really "dampens" the sound of the fans a lot. When I have the side panel off, yes they are pretty darn loud, but when the case is fully closed, all I hear is a slight hum of wind moving. Then again, I am coming from having 2x r9-290's on air blowing at 100% fan. So, this is nothing in comparison and really not that loud at all. Even my girlfriend was like, "wow, it's so quiet now." She endured a lot of the pain of those 290 fans blowing at 100% while I mined dogecoin/ltc all day.


----------



## steelkevin

Hi guys,

I've been wanting to light up my gear with the most natural possible light so I guess that would be white. I now have the founds to do so.
What would you guys recommend ?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Such a thing as "too much" noise is fairly subjective as well. But if the gf agrees they likely can't be _that_ loud...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> just because i woman doesnt say anything doesnt mean she doesnt notice. i changed rad fans and she knew. the yates are so much quieter than the excaliburs. "youre playing bf3. why isnt your computer hurting my ears?"
> "uh, i spent a little money buying a radiator." "oh, thats where all the money went..."


Heh my "problem" in this regard is not the noise of the PC but my pounding on the keys and mouse and sometimes muttering profanities or cackling like a maniac. Do not have a house so she is never very far away...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've been wanting to light up my gear with the most natural possible light so I guess that would be white. I now have the founds to do so.
> What would you guys recommend ?


http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388509729&sr=8-1&keywords=5050+rgb+led+strip


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388509729&sr=8-1&keywords=5050+rgb+led+strip


Thanks but those look like they'd be way too bright and not give a natural lighting effect. I really want to just be able to see the components as if they were naturally lit up and I don't want the thing to look like a party's going on inside there. Oh and that would probably be too long for my needs and the whole plugging it into a power socket doesn't seem convenient either. Thanks though


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Thanks but those look like they'd be way too bright and not give a natural lighting effect. I really want to just be able to see the components as if they were naturally lit up and I don't want the thing to look like a party's going on inside there. Oh and that would probably be too long for my needs and the whole plugging it into a power socket doesn't seem convenient either. Thanks though


you can cut it to length, and it uses a 12v input. and they dim. I have a similar kit and they are nice.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Thanks but those look like they'd be way too bright and not give a natural lighting effect. I really want to just be able to see the components as if they were naturally lit up and I don't want the thing to look like a party's going on inside there. Oh and that would probably be too long for my needs and the whole plugging it into a power socket doesn't seem convenient either. Thanks though


FWIW the AC inverter doesn't need to be used. The RGB LEDs are 12v so can be wired to a molex ina computer.

That said, a white cold cathode sounds like what you're looking for.

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&searchspec=white+cold+cathode

The 'true color' CCFL is more what your post made me think of.


----------



## stickg1

I used some HitLights LED strip. 16ft spool, cut off a few pieces and wired them to a Molex plug. Kinda bright but I probably used too much. My components like to party









They had a rep here on OCN, he popped into a thread another member started as a tutorial. Partly to admire our work but mostly to sell us more gear, like his higher end lights that are dimmable. So if you spend the extra few bucks you can dim them. I didn't bother, about $13 and a half hour of my time is all I was willing to spend on case lighting.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW the AC inverter doesn't need to be used. The RGB LEDs are 12v so can be wired to a molex in a computer.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I used some HitLights LED strip. 16ft spool, cut off a few pieces and wired them to a Molex plug.


That's what I'm doing with mine as well. Wired it with a molex plug and will be cutting to my desired length. I thought the one I bought(not actually the one I linked but very similar) was dimmable but I may be mistaken. I haven't played with it in a while.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's what I'm doing with mine as well. Wired it with a molex plug and will be cutting to my desired length. I thought the one I bought(not actually the one I linked but very similar) was dimmable but I may be mistaken. I haven't played with it in a while.


With mine, giving it less than 12v results in flickering. (I only tried 7v)


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Just picked up two more AP-15s from Microcenter for $16


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Just picked up two more AP-15s from Microcenter for $16


[email protected] fans. I just had 24 AP14's and 40 silverstone AP121's delivered. But that's for an STH10 build, an S3 build, an SM8 build and an air 540 build.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> With mine, giving it less than 12v results in flickering. (I only tried 7v)


Does the brighten and dim on your remote not work? I'm going to play with mine a little more when I get home tonight


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> [email protected] fans. I just had 24 AP14's and 40 silverstone AP121's delivered. But that's for an STH10 build, an S3 build, an SM8 build and an air 540 build.


lol, yeah I only have an Arc midi R2 with a 240mm Rad...


----------



## M3TAl

Still working on my first loop. Likely adding mosfet block, a NB block comes with it so might as well add that too. They're clear plexi so they'll look nice along with the Pastel Ice White and clean Supremacy.

Do they make spacers or anything like that? If say a fitting needed to be raised 5-10mm higher? I think the CPU block will be a good 5-10mm higher than NB block since the plan is to go straight from CPU block to NB. Can someone link me to something like that?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Still working on my first loop. Likely adding mosfet block, a NB block comes with it so might as well add that too. They're clear plexi so they'll look nice along with the Pastel Ice White and clean Supremacy.
> 
> *Do they make spacers or anything like that?* If say a fitting needed to be raised 5-10mm higher? I think the CPU block will be a good 5-10mm higher than NB block since the plan is to go straight from CPU block to NB. Can someone link me to something like that?


You going to need male-to-female extender adapter, like this one:-
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_830_829&products_id=25270


----------



## M3TAl

Yes, most excellent. Thanks!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Yes, most excellent. Thanks!


All I could think upon reading your post lol


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Just picked up two more AP-15s from Microcenter for $16


Man, I wish my local Microcenter had GT fans..


----------



## morencyam

Mine must have just started carrying them because I don't remember seeing them last time I was out there about amonth ago. But I checked the website last week and they are there now, but in low quantity. At the time I think there was only 6 AP-15s and 4 AP-14s


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well yeah the Monsta speaks for itself. But I wasn't aware of some of those other mentioned features (besides screw guard; can't believe others don't do that too). I thought the allure was mainly the cooling perf, if anything. So cool.


Also, Alphacool includes brass fittings for all fans with the radiator. So with a 360mm radiator, they give you six sets of fittings, three of them being slightly longer to account for stuff like the thickness of one's case and whatnot. It's the nice little perks their radiators have


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Mine must have just started carrying them because I don't remember seeing them last time I was out there about amonth ago. But I checked the website last week and they are there now, but in low quantity. At the time I think there was only 6 AP-15s and 4 AP-14s


Man, so lucky. The Chicago Microcenter only has one Scythe product and it's a hard drive vibration dampening kit :-/


----------



## LunaP

Crap is it just me or does the res look a little off? Like not perfectly straight. Just finished out the measurements and drilled out the back then screwed it in.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Crap is it just me or does the res look a little off? Like not perfectly straight. Just finished out the measurements and drilled out the back then screwed it in.


its leaning to the left


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Crap is it just me or does the res look a little off? Like not perfectly straight. Just finished out the measurements and drilled out the back then screwed it in.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The top of the res is leaning to the left.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its leaning to the left


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The top of the res is leaning to the left.


Actually the bottom is going to the right lol...damn gonna have to redrill.


----------



## szeged

measure twice, drill once


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Actually the bottom is going to the right lol...damn gonna have to redrill.


Waddle the hole out on the res clip and slide it over some. Don't redrill the metal. Unless you can move the clip up a half inch and to the right 1/8th. Then just redrill the metal. IDK how the clips work for that model res.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Actually the bottom is going to the right lol...damn gonna have to redrill.


Try to mod the hole in the plastic res bracket, instead of the case.

Lol, and your motherboard is upside down.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> measure twice, drill once


Measure thrice!!! Then center punch, then drill!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Measure thrice!!!


Measure an infinite amount of times then never drill!

the perfect solution to not messing up the metal


----------



## kpoeticg

It looks a tiny bit off, but it could just be the camera angle. Best way to make sure is use a square or level and dbl check the screw holes.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Try to mod the hole in the plastic res bracket, instead of the case.
> 
> Lol, *and your motherboard is upside down*.


It's a reverse ATX
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It looks a tiny bit off, but it could just be the camera angle. Best way to make sure is use a square or level and dbl check the screw holes.


The holes themselves line up just when the screw is in its barely off by much, I didn't think about redrilling into the res and ended up just widening the hole making it adjustable instead so it worked out anyways









Now its perfectly aligned.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> It's a reverse ATX
> The holes themselves line up just when the screw is in its barely off by much, I didn't think about redrilling into the res and ended up just widening the hole making it adjustable instead so it worked out anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now its perfectly aligned.*


more pics!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Measure an infinite amount of times then never drill!
> 
> the perfect solution to not messing up the metal


Lol, not my style. Metal is meant to be worked!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, not my style. Metal is meant to be worked!!


Thats why i weld for a living


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Measure an infinite amount of times then never drill!
> 
> the perfect solution to not messing up the metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, not my style. Metal is meant to be worked!!
Click to expand...

I definitely concur!!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> more pics!




Need to go to the store later and grab a screwdriver star set to remove the screws on my titans. Hopefully Home depot has them in stock, last time I was there the guy had no idea what a dremel was, I tried to paint a pickture and described an electric toothbrush w/ a saw blade and he laughed and told me its called a mini cutter and then as I walked to the isle he mentioned hear him laugh to himself saying "ha dremel what country are they from haha"









pointed me to the correct isle though.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> All I could think upon reading your post lol


Haha. Oh, man. I've had this VHS for ages... not even mine. Friend gave it to me, I didn't even want it.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Need to go to the store later and grab a screwdriver star set to remove the screws on my titans. Hopefully Home depot has them in stock, last time I was there the guy had no idea what a dremel was, I tried to paint a pickture and described an electric toothbrush w/ a saw blade and he laughed and told me its called a mini cutter and then as I walked to the isle he mentioned hear him laugh to himself saying "ha dremel what country are they from haha"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pointed me to the correct isle though.


It's just how I call all my circular saws "skillsaws" and all my reciprocating saws "sawzalls." Dremel is the company best known for that particular tool, that's why the tool is referred to as a dremel. That guy is an idiot, that's why he works at Home Depot instead of as a craftsman. If he knew anything about tools or had any skill he wouldn't be there. This is the exact conversation I had with a salesman at Lowe's, and exactly why I'm no longer welcome in that particular store, lol.

Oh yeah, I'm pretty sure it's called a rotary multi tool, not a mini cutter. I would have pimp slapped that guy. That's why I have my business account at a local supplier where the people know their tools and sell the more durable models. /end rant


----------



## kpoeticg

Home Depot carries pretty much Dremel's entire line of products. I get pretty much all my Dremel stuff there.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Heys guys, what are the Ap-15's like at full speed when on a rad (noise wise), compared to corsairs sp 120's at the same rpm....?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Haha. Oh, man. I've had this VHS for ages... not even mine. Friend gave it to me, I didn't even want it.


HAHA I have the VHS somehwere too. Also not mine. I think a friend left it at my house or something. Not sure how I ended up with it. TBH, I think I like Excellent Adventure better


----------



## kpoeticg

ALOT quieter than SP120's


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Heys guys, what are the Ap-15's like at full speed when on a rad (noise wise), compared to corsairs sp 120's at the same rpm....?


Pleasant to listen, not overly bearing. And I have my case about 4 feet away from my right ear. I do like quietness though and have them under-volted down to about 800rpm though  (Pure silence).

SP120s sound like a jet engine compared to the AP-15s. Its not even close.


----------



## kpoeticg

You can get a pretty good idea from martins comparison vids here

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Heys guys, what are the Ap-15's like at full speed when on a rad (noise wise), compared to corsairs sp 120's at the same rpm....?


AP-15s at full speed on a rad tend to make a low hum that is not very distracting or noticeable unless you're listening for it.

High performance SP120s, on the other hand, sound like a buzzsaw, and I'm not sure I ever even put them up to full speed. They didn't last that long. Intolerable imho. I've no idea if the quiet editions sound any better but suspect they'd perform terrible on a rad on any case.

This should give you some idea:


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> AP-15s at full speed on a rad tend to make a low hum that is not very distracting or noticeable unless you're listening for it.
> 
> High performance SP120s, on the other hand, sound like a buzzsaw, and I'm not sure I ever even put them up to full speed. They didn't last that long. Intolerable imho. I've no idea if the quiet editions sound any better but suspect they'd perform terrible on a rad on any case.
> 
> This should give you some idea:


This is VERY true as I own BOTH!!!!!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ALOT quieter than SP120's


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Pleasant to listen, not overly bearing. And I have my case about 4 feet away from my right ear. I do like quietness though and have them under-volted down to about 800rpm though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Pure silence).
> 
> SP120s sound like a jet engine compared to the AP-15s. Its not even close.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You can get a pretty good idea from martins comparison vids here
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> AP-15s at full speed on a rad tend to make a low hum that is not very distracting or noticeable unless you're listening for it.
> 
> High performance SP120s, on the other hand, sound like a buzzsaw, and I'm not sure I ever even put them up to full speed. They didn't last that long. Intolerable imho. I've no idea if the quiet editions sound any better but suspect they'd perform terrible on a rad on any case.
> 
> This should give you some idea:


Thanks guys,will be ordering 8 of these as soon as the shops re-open from the holidays....







+ Rep....


----------



## stickg1

Well my case full of SP120's has never felt so inadequate! lol.

Luckily they don't bother me and with the included voltage step-down adapter they are very tolerable to my ears. Granted I've been using a router table and board planer all day so maybe my ears just aren't as sensitive as others.

I still want to get a decent fan controller eventually. I've spent too much money lately though, I have to through the wife off my scent!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well my case full of SP120's has never felt so inadequate! lol.
> 
> Luckily they don't bother me and with the included voltage step-down adapter they are very tolerable to my ears. Granted I've been using a router table and board planer all day so maybe my ears just aren't as sensitive as others.
> 
> I still want to get a decent fan controller eventually. I've spent too much money lately though, I have to through the wife off my scent!


How bout this baby http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12285/bus-243/Lamptron_FC_Touch_-_30W_-_6_Channel_Aluminum_Rheobus_w_Touch_Screen_-_Black_FCT_HOT_ITEM.html


----------



## rascas

Happy New Year everyone and thanks for the nice comments
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> looks perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what size of tubing and fittings did you use?


Used primochill 3/8 inch ID acrylic tubing and primochill ghost compression fittings. All the bends are bitspower rotary 45 and 90's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> Lovely build dude... And great space management in that CL M8...


It took a while and hours of staring at the case till I figured it all out, it was a lot of stuff to cram in.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well my case full of SP120's has never felt so inadequate! lol.
> 
> Luckily they don't bother me and with the included voltage step-down adapter they are very tolerable to my ears. Granted I've been using a router table and board planer all day so maybe my ears just aren't as sensitive as others.
> 
> I still want to get a decent fan controller eventually. I've spent too much money lately though, I have to through the wife off my scent!


Just use a fan controller. I will admit that the major reason I went with SP120s, other than the looks and the great amazon discount I got on them, was the PWM function.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> How bout this baby http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12285/bus-243/Lamptron_FC_Touch_-_30W_-_6_Channel_Aluminum_Rheobus_w_Touch_Screen_-_Black_FCT_HOT_ITEM.html


That's pretty nice, I bookmarked it. I wont buy anything for another week or two. I had two packages come yesterday and three more due by Friday. I can't use the Christmas present excuse anymore, lol...

Not that it really matters, but I have spent a considerable amount of money on my PC in the past two weeks. I will hold off as long I can (likely 2 weeks







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just use a fan controller. I will admit that the major reason I went with SP120s, other than the looks and the great amazon discount I got on them, was the PWM function.


I just got the 3 pin ones unfortunately. I only have two right now but I used a $50 Amazon gift cert I got for X-Mas to buy two more 2-packs to fill the case.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's pretty nice, I bookmarked it. I wont buy anything for another week or two. I had two packages come yesterday and three more due by Friday. I can't use the Christmas present excuse anymore, lol...
> 
> Not that it really matters, but I have spent a considerable amount of money on my PC in the past two weeks. I will hold off as long I can (likely 2 weeks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> I just got the 3 pin ones unfortunately. I only have two right now but I used a $50 Amazon gift cert I got for X-Mas to buy two more 2-packs to fill the case.


Why not ask your boss if you can have it delivered to your work or a neighbor?









Or the famous

LOOK WHAT FELL OFF THE TRUCK!!


----------



## stickg1

I work construction and hop around between jobsites. It's not so much the ole lady nagging me, I just think I need to get some more buffer space back in the checking account. I'm already a couple hundred over budget for this build.


----------



## Anoxy

As far as actual loop water temperature goes, what would be considered too warm?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> As far as actual loop water temperature goes, what would be considered too warm?


Depends on whether you're talking ambient or load.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> As far as actual loop water temperature goes, what would be considered too warm?


Most average systems manage about 10C over ambient under load.

Higher end systems with more rad get closer to 5C, (some even better) while barely adequate systems can't hold to 10C.

If you're 15C or more over ambient, I'd suggest going back to the drawing board and rethinking your plan.

Darlene


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Depends on whether you're talking ambient or load.


Load. I was running my fans at only 40% while playing BF4 and the water got to around 37C, ambient temps are probably ~19-20C.

So I suppose I just need to crank my fans up a bit when gaming.


----------



## ozzy1925

2 xd5 pumps and 2x 250ml. reservoirs will be overkill for 1 x 4770k,2xgtx680 and 4x dimm ram slots?will be using with 2xut 60 480mm


----------



## RickRockerr

But isn't it just easier to watch cpu and gpu temps? I don't have temp sensor for water and I think that I never will buy one







I'm satisfied if my cpu is under 60°C and gpu under 45°C








But i'm going to get another 670 so I think that I have to set my personal temp limit little bit higher because in this case i can't get more rad space








Or I have set higher fan speed because I have AF140 quiet editions running @ 7V


----------



## Anoxy

I only mention water temps, because my GPU temps stay below 40C and my CPU stays under 55C during BF4 but it still crashes constantly. So I was thinking maybe it has something to do with VRM temps or something that isn't directly measured?

It's the only game that ever crashes on me so I'm thinking it has something to do with the NVIDIA drivers instead.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I only mention water temps, because my GPU temps stay below 40C and my CPU stays under 55C during BF4 but it still crashes constantly. So I was thinking maybe it has something to do with VRM temps or something that isn't directly measured?
> 
> It's the only game that ever crashes on me so I'm thinking it has something to do with the NVIDIA drivers instead.


Crashing more often means instability, not overheating.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its leaning to the left


AH! Photon!?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I only mention water temps, because my GPU temps stay below 40C and my CPU stays under 55C during BF4 but it still crashes constantly. So I was thinking maybe it has something to do with VRM temps or something that isn't directly measured?
> 
> It's the only game that ever crashes on me so I'm thinking it has something to do with the NVIDIA drivers instead.


What GPU block? What pump / pump speed?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> AP-15s at full speed on a rad tend to make a low hum that is not very distracting or noticeable unless you're listening for it.
> 
> High performance SP120s, on the other hand, sound like a buzzsaw, and I'm not sure I ever even put them up to full speed. They didn't last that long. Intolerable imho. I've no idea if the quiet editions sound any better but suspect they'd perform terrible on a rad on any case.
> 
> This should give you some idea:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What the heck? My SP120s don't sound that loud. Even had them hooked up to a spare PSU to test outside the case. Then again any fan quieter than the ridiculous loud Silverstones on my folder/miner rig is always better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I definitely concur!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmm, that a useful way to mark out lines. Definitely going to remember that when cutting up my case with a dremel for my first time.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Is there a comparison between using a fullcover block and a universal with heasinks on vrm/vram?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Crashing more often means instability, not overheating.


Instability in what?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What GPU block? What pump / pump speed?


Two EK Titan SE copper/acetal full cover blocks. Pump is MCP-655-PWM, RPMS vary obviously, but it probably jumps to ~2400RPM under BF4 gaming load?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Instability in what?


Cpu/Gpu overclock....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Instability in what?


It means either your CPU overclock is causing instability in the system, or your GPU overclock is doing it. Don't assume that just because your OC ran prime for 24hr or you ran whatever GPU benchmark and it was ok that you have a stable OC. If you game and OC, you need to make sure that the OC is stable in all your games also. Remember, your PCIe lanes run through the proc also, so it can cause errors in the traffic on PCIe lanes if you OC isn't stable!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Cpu/Gpu overclock....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It means either your CPU overclock is causing instability in the system, or your GPU overclock is doing it. Don't assume that just because your OC ran prime for 24hr or you ran whatever GPU benchmark and it was ok that you have a stable OC. If you game and OC, you need to make sure that the OC is stable in all your games also. Remember, your PCIe lanes run through the proc also, so it can cause errors in the traffic on PCIe lanes if you OC isn't stable!


I see. My GPUs are not overclocked. My 3570K is only slightly overclocked to 4.4GHz. However, the only game that causes crashes is Battlefield 4, so it makes me think it's just that plagued with problems game. But maybe my CPU really is unstable. That would be surprising.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I see. My GPUs are not overclocked. My 3570K is only slightly overclocked to 4.4GHz. However, the only game that causes crashes is Battlefield 4, so it makes me think it's just that plagued with problems game. But maybe my CPU really is unstable. That would be surprising.


I've been playing BF4 since it was released, and have yet to have one issue with it on any of my gaming systems. One of them is a [email protected] It could be a game issue, but I've never had an issue with the game though.

I'm assuming you have the game fully patched and the correct and most current video driver?!

Edit: are you overclocking your monitor? There was a thread on OCN if I recall where people were having issues with that in certain games.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

It's hard to be sure with BF4. Some people have had no real probs as said above and there is little rhyme or reason to it for those who do, relatively speaking anyway. Of course there is an easy test for whether or not it's oc instability and it's not unheard of for a Battlefield to uncover instability, especially since BC2 anyway. Still very well could be the game though. What happens exactly? BSOD? CTD? Sound loop?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I see. My GPUs are not overclocked. My 3570K is only slightly overclocked to 4.4GHz. However, the only game that causes crashes is Battlefield 4, so it makes me think it's just that plagued with problems game. But maybe my CPU really is unstable. That would be surprising.












It's not necessarily unstable overclock. I've read other people getting similar problem with BF4 before & disable Core Parking fixed the problem for them. You might want to try it. I see you have Windows 8. I checked the procedure still applicable in Windows 8. Then you can set both *"Processor performance core parking min cores"* & *"Processor performance core parking max cores"* to 100% to disabled core parking (in _Control Panel >> Power Options_).

http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus/494232-how-adjust-core-parking-inside-windows-7-a.html


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'm assuming you have the game fully patched and the correct and most current video driver?!
> 
> Edit: are you overclocking your monitor? There was a thread on OCN if I recall where people were having issues with that in certain games.


Yep, game is updated and latest drivers installed.

I do sometimes overclock my monitor, but I can't remember if the crashes occurred when it was overclocked. I will have to look into that. Thanks for the tip!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> It's hard to be sure with BF4. Some people have had no real probs as said above and there is little rhyme or reason to it for those who do, relatively speaking anyway. Of course there is an easy test for whether or not it's oc instability and it's not unheard of for a Battlefield to uncover instability, especially since BC2 anyway. Still very well could be the game though. What happens exactly? BSOD? CTD? Sound loop?


Usually the game just closes out and a little white window pops up that says Battlefield 4 has stopped working. And occasionally the little Action Center icon in my system tray will say that there was an issue with Nvidia drivers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not necessarily unstable overclock. I've read other people getting similar problem with BF4 before & disable Core Parking fixed the problem for them. You might want to try it. I see you have Windows 8. I checked the procedure still applicable in Windows 8. Then you can set both *"Processor performance core parking min cores"* & *"Processor performance core parking max cores"* to 100% to disabled core parking (in _Control Panel >> Power Options_).
> 
> http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus/494232-how-adjust-core-parking-inside-windows-7-a.html


It was on topic before people started asking me why I was inquiring about water temps









But I'm on Windows 8.1 now. I will look into that, thanks for the tips. Sorry to de-rail the thread.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quick question,currently running just pull intake on my EX 360 i wanted to know whats the performance yield in percentage running push/pull on rads compared to just push or pull....? Currently running corsair SP's but will be oing to AP-15's really soon....


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quick question,currently running just pull intake on my EX 360 i wanted to know whats the performance yield in percentage running push/pull on rads compared to just push or pull....? Currently running corsair SP's but will be oing to AP-15's really soon....


Iirc, Martin said about 30% but dont quote me on that


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quick question,currently running just pull intake on my EX 360 i wanted to know whats the performance yield in percentage running push/pull on rads compared to just push or pull....? Currently running corsair SP's but will be oing to AP-15's really soon....


Check out http://martinsliquidlab.org/ and see if he has percentages, personally, I would never run a rad with fans in just pull, since most fans don't "suck" very well with a rad in front of them and they are usually louder that way, I'll run push only, or push/pull. Again, that's been my experience in my builds, others may have had different results.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quick question,currently running just pull intake on my EX 360 i wanted to know whats the performance yield in percentage running push/pull on rads compared to just push or pull....? Currently running corsair SP's but will be oing to AP-15's really soon....


Here's a response I wrote recently in another thread where I dug up some of Martin's findings re: push-pull vs push or pull ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Martin'sLiquidLabs testing has shown pretty consistently that "_About the only generalization is that push/pull is still your best bet if cost is not a problem and that will hold true for all radiators_". On test after test you find Martin saying things like "_there is a pressure benefit to doubling up on fans and this translates to about a 20-30% performance gain_" & "_I would always recommend a push/pull configuration for two fans_".
> 
> The same holds true for slim low density fin rads where push-pull does have the least affect. For example, Martin found there was a 17% benefit to running push-pull on a swiftech mcr120.
> 
> Bottom line: Push-pull, if you have room for it, will ALWAYS net you fairly substantial benefits, regardless of what rad you are running.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ALOT quieter than SP120's


Totally! I have both and i can't stand the SP120 on full tilt.

Thank god for that lamptron controller.


----------



## rickyman0319

do u guys know how to make tubing more softer so I can cutting it?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do u guys know how to make tubing more softer so I can cutting it?


A pvc tubing cutter works great, cuts flexible tubing easily (without having to soften it) & cleanly, and doesn't have to cost all that much.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=pvc%20cutter
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=pvc%20cutter



Some heavy-duty scissors or a razor-knife can usually get the job done too.

Or I guess you could try to place some tubing where you want to cut it into some heated-near-boiling water for 30 secs to a minute or so to see if it makes it easier for you.


----------



## rickyman0319

when I tried to put the tube in the compression fitting, it is so hard to put in it. is there any easier way to put it inside the fitting?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> when I tried to put the tube in the compression fitting, it is so hard to put in it. is there any easier way to put it inside the fitting?


Saliva or dip into coolant.


----------



## rickyman0319

will warm water or Distilled water do it or not?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> will warm water or Distilled water do it or not?


Sure it should, and be better than using saliva as far as introducing bacteria into your loop goes.

If it's all that hard though I'd wonder if you have the correct size hose / fittings. Sometimes hose can be thicker/thinner than it's supposed to be. I had an order of Primochill Pro LRT once that was like that. It was so bad I should have returned it.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sure it should, and be better than using saliva as far as introducing bacteria into your loop goes.
> 
> If it's all that hard though I'd wonder if you have the correct size hose / fittings. Sometimes hose can be thicker/thinner than it's supposed to be. I had an order of Primochill Pro LRT once that was like that. It was so bad I should have returned it.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> when I tried to put the tube in the compression fitting, it is so hard to put in it. is there any easier way to put it inside the fitting?


I normally wouldn't ask this but you've had quite a lot of derp questions lately. You are unscrewing the compression ring, taking it completely off the barb, putting the tubing on the barb and then sliding the ring over the tubing, _right_?


----------



## GhostDog99

I will even ask this did you get the right size
Fitting for your tube it sounds like you got
Fittings that match your tubes OD not the ID

Or you just got really crappy tubbing


----------



## kcuestag

Fan experts, I need your help in choosing 140mm fans for my HWLabs Black Ice SR1 420mm (To be used in pull mode):

http://www.overclock.net/t/1455607/in-the-market-for-new-140mm-fans


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Fan experts, I need your help in choosing 140mm fans for my HWLabs Black Ice SR1 420mm (To be used in pull mode):
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455607/in-the-market-for-new-140mm-fans


If i may, NoiseBlocker PK-3's or Cougar Vortex


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> If i may, NoiseBlocker PK-3's or Cougar Vortex


Cougar Vortex's are not sold in Europe (Or I don't know any store who sells them







), but the PK3's look good, have you had them? Any experience downvolting them with a fan controller? Wondering how they play at around 1000-1200rpm.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> I will even ask this did you get the right size
> Fitting for your tube it sounds like you got
> Fittings that match your tubes OD not the ID
> 
> Or you just got really crappy tubbing


Agreed. Something sounds fishy. It can be a really tight fit sometimes and I have to work at it but it shouldn't be so difficult you need to ask about it.


----------



## Zeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Cougar Vortex's are not sold in Europe (Or I don't know any store who sells them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but the PK3's look good, have you had them? Any experience downvolting them with a fan controller? Wondering how they play at around 1000-1200rpm.


I know you can get Cougar fans (CF-V14H) from Amazon UK


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeus*
> 
> I know you can get Cougar fans (CF-V14H) from Amazon UK


The specifications look good, but I'd prefer black fans.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Fan experts, I need your help in choosing 140mm fans for my HWLabs Black Ice SR1 420mm (To be used in pull mode):
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455607/in-the-market-for-new-140mm-fans


I run Noise Blocker PK-3's on my HL Black Ice 560mm rad. Great fans IMO...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I run Noise Blocker PK-3's on my HL Black Ice 560mm rad. Great fans IMO...


Do you run them at full blast or undervolted? I'd like to keep them somewhere between 1000 and 1400RPM (Deppending on the noise







)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Res has been finalized..so im off to Justin and Shaun at PARVUM this weekend for some acrylic action,I get to see their monster in action!

Now the res fills 6 bays! Plus the AC XT in the very top to fill it out.



The side view.



And an exploded view.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res has been finalized..so im off to Justin and Shaun at PARVUM this weekend for some acrylic action,I get to see their monster in action!
> 
> Now the res fills 6 bays! Plus the AC XT in the very top to fill it out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side view.


Any plans to add some fake plastic fish to that aquarium?





Quote:


> And an exploded view.


^^^ Aha!!! Proof of your wizardry!

EDIT:
I kid.

That six-bay res is awesomely insane!

Happy New Year everyone.


----------



## Trolle BE

ordered myself some http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Luefter/Alpenfoehn/Alpenfoehn-120mm-Wing-Boost-Pure-Plus-PWM-Luefter-schwarz::19637.html
lets hope i wont be dissapointed


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Man, so lucky. The Chicago Microcenter only has one Scythe product and it's a hard drive vibration dampening kit :-/


Yes....so sad...and it is a pain to get to without a car


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Cougar Vortex's are not sold in Europe (Or I don't know any store who sells them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but the PK3's look good, have you had them? Any experience downvolting them with a fan controller? Wondering how they play at around 1000-1200rpm.


I've been using four PK-3 fans for a while now. Three of them have been in use for more than two years in pull configuration on an EK XTC-420 rad in my main rig, and the fourth has been in use for about 1.5 years on a Thermalright HR-02 air cooler in my home server.

They have a very wide range for voltage control. The start-up voltage is only 4V where they run at just under 800 RPM. At full blast they are at almost 1700 RPM.

I do a lot of audio production, so I am very sensitive to noise. These fans are very quiet over almost all of the speed range. Below 1000 RPM, they are almost completely drowned out by the noise from my 1TB WD Caviar Black HDD (which is fairly quiet itself). From 1000 to 1400 RPM, they produce only air noise. Above 1400 RPM there is a mild hum, but most of the noise is still just from moving air. Over the entire range there are no resonances, whining, rattling, or clicking that I can hear.

*tl;dr* - They are very quiet in the 1000 to 1200 RPM range.

--

Since I am using a low FPI rad, I have found that the difference between full blast and 1400 RPM is only about 0.5°C. Blacknoise has recently released PWM versions of most of their BlackSilent line, and I have decided to replace all of the fans in my main rig with them (including the 120mm case fans). The max speeds are a little lower than the regular voltage-controlled models, but the minimum RPM is _much_ lower. I even decided to go push-pull on the radiator so that I can lower the speeds even more. So far I've got all of the 120's and three of the 140's I need, and the other three 140's will get here on Friday. I've got lots of rewiring to look forward to.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I've been using four PK-3 fans for a while now. Three of them have been in use for more than two years in pull configuration on an EK XTC-420 rad in my main rig, and the fourth has been in use for about 1.5 years on a Thermalright HR-02 air cooler in my home server.
> 
> They have a very wide range for voltage control. The start-up voltage is only 4V where they run at just under 800 RPM. At full blast they are at almost 1700 RPM.
> 
> I do a lot of audio production, so I am very sensitive to noise. These fans are very quiet over almost all of the speed range. Below 1000 RPM, they are almost completely drowned out by the noise from my 1TB WD Caviar Black HDD (which is fairly quiet itself). From 1000 to 1400 RPM, they produce only air noise. Above 1400 RPM there is a mild hum, but most of the noise is still just from moving air. Over the entire range there are no resonances, whining, rattling, or clicking that I can hear.
> 
> *tl;dr* - They are very quiet in the 1000 to 1200 RPM range.
> 
> --
> 
> Since I am using a low FPI rad, I have found that the difference between full blast and 1400 RPM is only about 0.5°C. Blacknoise has recently released PWM versions of most of their BlackSilent line, and I have decided to replace all of the fans in my main rig with them (including the 120mm case fans). The max speeds are a little lower than the regular voltage-controlled models, but the minimum RPM is _much_ lower. I even decided to go push-pull on the radiator so that I can lower the speeds even more. So far I've got all of the 120's and three of the 140's I need, and the other three 140's will get here on Friday. I've got lots of rewiring to look forward to.


Thanks, I think I'll go for the PK3's.


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Cougar Vortex's are not sold in Europe (Or I don't know any store who sells them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but the PK3's look good, have you had them? Any experience downvolting them with a fan controller? Wondering how they play at around 1000-1200rpm.


you can order them here :http://www.aquatuning.nl/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=cougar&


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> you can order them here :http://www.aquatuning.nl/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=cougar&


Too expensive for a fan and orange.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> ordered myself some http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Luefter/Alpenfoehn/Alpenfoehn-120mm-Wing-Boost-Pure-Plus-PWM-Luefter-schwarz::19637.html
> lets hope i wont be dissapointed


Anyone know where to get some of these babies in the u.s.?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Anyone know where to get some of these babies in the u.s.?


I wish


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Recall someone here saying that the Alpenföhn Wing Boost was a rebranded Deepcool UF (or vice-versa). I don't know if that's the case or not. They definitely look to be very similar, but different colors.

*Edit:* Found it:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Alphenfohn wing boosts are Deepcool UF fans (Rebranded/different color) and I can say although they're really good fans they're almost as good as GTs. [...]


----------



## waveaddict

Any reason why the alphacool VPP655 pump shows a 3 pin MB header as well as a molex connector on PPCS and on FCPU shows only a 2 pin molex?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Any reason why the alphacool VPP655 pump shows a 3 pin MB header as well as a molex connector on PPCS and on FCPU shows only a 2 pin molex?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Regardless of the pics, what does the description for the product say? alphacool has made those pumps with & without an rpm signal wire. So it could be old stock photo?!?!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Fan experts, I need your help in choosing 140mm fans for my HWLabs Black Ice SR1 420mm (To be used in pull mode):
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455607/in-the-market-for-new-140mm-fans


I've heard the new Phantek PH-F140XP are supposedly rather good. I ordered a pair of them to try them out. Personally out of all the 140mm fans I've tried so far my favorite are medium speed Yate Loons. Swiftech Helix 140mms aren't all that good IMO. They have much lower static pressure than the 120mm version. They also make an annoying whining.


----------



## stickg1

The little voltage step-down that comes with the SP120, is that just a 7v step down? Wondering because when I run the fan with that step-down, it runs faster than when I plug it into my case's fan controller and put it on 7v.

Sorry for the OT


----------



## ozzy1925

guys, should i choose this top for 2 pumps on a single loop?

or 2 separate tops ?

and which reservoir? ek x3 250ml

or
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 ?


----------



## Jimhans1

@Ozzy, I would personally use the dual top were it me, less fittings and tubing, easier to wire manage. And I prefer the BP reservoirs to the EK units myself. Just a personal preference, I use mostly EK products for my blocks and BP for pump tops and res's.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @Ozzy, I would personally use the dual top were it me, less fittings and tubing, easier to wire manage. And I prefer the BP reservoirs to the EK units myself.


I agree


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Regardless of the pics, what does the description for the product say? alphacool has made those pumps with & without an rpm signal wire. So it could be old stock photo?!?!


They both say 4 pin molex

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13148/ex-pmp-132/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_HF_Top_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s153

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=30626

The only difference is FCPU shows the rounded pump top instead of the squared.I think it just has a molex for power and RPM adjust on the pump itself.


----------



## psycho84

Little Update ^^

I changed the Cablemanagment and the Illumination to an controllable RGB Setup which i can switch with a remote Controler.

Here some Pics:







Friday or Saturday my XSPC DDC Dual Top V2 should arrive. Then i put in the second DDC 1T+. Then i will make more Pics...


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering if there such thing as on and off switch for the fans.

like I want the top fan on the rad on and off instead all the fan on the rad. I don't mean by fan controller.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

you could wire one up...


----------



## rickyman0319

what do u meant?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering if there such thing as on and off switch for the fans.
> 
> like I want the top fan on the rad on and off instead all the fan on the rad. I don't mean by fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> you could wire one up...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> what do u meant?
Click to expand...

He meant you can wire up a switch if you want ...

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g52/c343/s894/list/p1/Switches-16mm_Vandal_Resistant_Switches-16mm_Latching_Vandal_Resistant_Switches-Page1.html?id=ZbvHCfsg&mv_pc=2193

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g52/c399/s1596/list/p1/Switches-Toggle_Switches-PCI_Rocker_Switches-Page1.html?id=ZbvHCfsg&mv_pc=2211

etc

I suspect these are the types of questions that would better belong in their own topic started by you, not-so-much in the water cooling club thread.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Little Update ^^
> 
> I changed the Cablemanagment and the Illumination to an controllable RGB Setup which i can switch with a remote Controler.
> 
> Here some Pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Friday or Saturday my XSPC DDC Dual Top V2 should arrive. Then i put in the second DDC 1T+. Then i will make more Pics...


That's really attractive, I like it a lot. What case is that?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering if there such thing as on and off switch for the fans.
> 
> like I want the top fan on the rad on and off instead all the fan on the rad. I don't mean by fan controller.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what do u meant?


Like, wire up a switch in your PC that you can press to turn fans on and off. Kind of like a light switch in your house, although I gotta be honest man, not really sure if you're up to the task. No offense.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's really attractive, I like it a lot. What case is that?


It's a LD Cooling V7 Reverse Black (280/420)


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> They both say 4 pin molex
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13148/ex-pmp-132/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_HF_Top_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s153
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=30626
> 
> The only difference is FCPU shows the rounded pump top instead of the squared.I think it just has a molex for power and RPM adjust on the pump itself.


Dude, look at the page for just the pump itself, even there it shows a pump with no rpm lead even though the description says "w/rpm monitoring". The pics are not necessarily exact representations of the product.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I agree


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @Ozzy, I would personally use the dual top were it me, less fittings and tubing, easier to wire manage. And I prefer the BP reservoirs to the EK units myself. Just a personal preference, I use mostly EK products for my blocks and BP for pump tops and res's.


thank you both and i have loop idea how does it sound:
reservoir>pump>buttom radiator>top radiator>cpu>ram>gpu >reservoir


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thank you both and i have loop idea how does it sound:
> reservoir>pump>buttom radiator>top radiator>cpu>ram>gpu >reservoir


Don't know what case it's in, but I would try res>pump>bottom rad>GPU>CPU>Ram>top rad>res

Edit: That layout I put up is taking a LOT of assumptions on hardware being used. Can u be more specific on what hardware you are going to use???


----------



## kpoeticg

Res => Pump is all that matters as far as function

The rest is just aesthetics really. So just make your tubing runs as clean as you can

Has anybody heard anything about or tried those new B Gears b-PWM's FCPU & PPC have started carrying?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Don't know what case it's in, but I would try res>pump>bottom rad>GPU>CPU>Ram>top rad>res
> 
> Edit: That layout I put up is taking a LOT of assumptions on hardware being used. Can u be more specific on what hardware you are going to use???


i am thinking of 2xut 60 480mm (top will be push and pull,buttom push or pull), dual or single d5 pump


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am thinking of 2xut 60 480mm (top will be push and pull,buttom push or pull), dual or single d5 pump


Ok. I still say that the cleanest looking run would NOT be the way you first posted. The run from one rad to the other is extra wasted tubing for almost any case layout. What case are you using??


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Ok. I still say that the cleanest looking run would NOT be the way you first posted. The run from one rad to the other is extra wasted tubing for almost any case layout. What case are you using??


corsair 900d


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> corsair 900d


I still say try it this way, res>pump>bottom rad>GPU>CPU>Ram>top rad>res, the CPU and ram can be switched if it makes tubing easier or looks better, temp wise it won't matter what the layout is honestly, I think it will look the best, and be easier to have the shortest tubing runs, and be easiest to bleed the air from, but that's just my opinion.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I still say try it this way, res>pump>bottom rad>GPU>CPU>Ram>top rad>res, the CPU and ram can be switched if it makes tubing easier or looks better, temp wise it won't matter what the layout is honestly, I think it will look the best, and be easier to have the shortest tubing runs, and be easiest to bleed the air from, but that's just my opinion.


i will try acrylic tubing .Due to lack of spacing on top only ek x3 250 can fit to my loop idea and as i read we cant use the top port so i haven choosen that loop order


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Do you run them at full blast or undervolted? I'd like to keep them somewhere between 1000 and 1400RPM (Deppending on the noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I run mine at full speed and just shut down half or all of them when I want silence. Never have been able to get my fan controller to lower the rpm for some reason, they're either on or off. Have meant to get an Aquaero for some time but other priorities keep coming up. I can say that they are fairly reasonable even with 4 of them at full speed...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I run mine at full speed and just shut down half or all of them when I want silence. Never have been able to get my fan controller to lower the rpm for some reason, they're either on or off. Have meant to get an Aquaero for some time but other priorities keep coming up. I can say that they are fairly reasonable even with 4 of them at full speed...


Thanks.









Mine will be connected to an Aquaero.


----------



## psycho84

Mine too ^^

Aquaero 6 ftw









18 Fans on 1 Channel ^^

Only the Fan's from the Radiators inside runs permanently. The Fan's from the MoRa only starts when the Watertemperatur reachs a specific Temperature...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i will try acrylic tubing .Due to lack of spacing on top only ek x3 250 can fit to my loop idea and as i read we cant use the top port so i haven choosen that loop order


I've used an x3 250 top port as part of the loop, but since I wanted a fill port ALSO, I bought the multi port top they make for it. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=g30c97s169

And it's not that you CAN'T use the top port, they just recommend that you don't, and I'm not sure why honestly!


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Don't know what case it's in, but I would try res>pump>bottom rad>GPU>CPU>Ram>top rad>res
> 
> Edit: That layout I put up is taking a LOT of assumptions on hardware being used. Can u be more specific on what hardware you are going to use???
> 
> 
> 
> i am thinking of 2xut 60 480mm (top will be push and pull,buttom push or pull), dual or single d5 pump
Click to expand...

unless you're using a motherboard that is smaller than a maximus VI extreme, expect fitment issues using a UT60 in push/pull up top. I'm installing my UT60's as we speak and there is very little clearance between the pull fans and the motherboard.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Mine too ^^
> 
> Aquaero 6 ftw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 18 Fans on 1 Channel ^^
> 
> Only the Fan's from the Radiators inside runs permanently. The Fan's from the MoRa only starts when the Watertemperatur reachs a specific Temperature...


How do you get them all on 1 channel biggest ive been able to find is an 8 way splitter.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> How do you get them all on 1 channel biggest ive been able to find is an 8 way splitter.


There are 9 Fans on each Side of the Radiator an take two 9 to 1 Splitter an one 2 to 1 splitter because first i want to put it on 2 Channels. But know i put my 2 Laings each on one Channel the 18 Fans on one and the 5 from the internal Radiators on one Channel.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> How do you get them all on 1 channel biggest ive been able to find is an 8 way splitter.


Make your own. You coukd make one from wire or get a bare circuit board from radio shack or similar store and make one similar to the 8-way board like the ones you currently have


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> There are 9 Fans on each Side of the Radiator an take two 9 to 1 Splitter an one 2 to 1 splitter because first i want to put it on 2 Channels. But know i put my 2 Laings each on one Channel the 18 Fans on one and the 5 from the internal Radiators on one Channel.


Ah ok ill check fcpu and ppcs for some thanks didnt think you could do that do to the watt limitations per channel


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah ok ill check fcpu and ppcs for some thanks didnt think you could do that do to the watt limitations per channel


The Aqauero 6 have 30 Watts per Channel. So it should be no Problem to put 18 Fans on it but i cannot find detailed Specificatinos for my Fans (BitFenix Spectre) because i want to know the Starting Power that they need, thats the Factor which you have to know.

Do you have also an v6 Aquaero ? Because the older Version dont have such a high Power per Channel...


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering is there a fan splitters like akasa fan splitter but with 3 pin but not 4 pin.

I want a fan splitter w/ molex and but with 3 pins only.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> The Aqauero 6 have 30 Watts per Channel. So it should be no Problem to put 18 Fans on it but i cannot find detailed Specificatinos for my Fans (BitFenix Spectre) because i want to know the Starting Power that they need, thats the Factor which you have to know.
> 
> Do you have also an v6 Aquaero ? Because the older Version dont have such a high Power per Channel...


Yeah I have the aquaeros 6

Fans are gt ap15s


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah I have the aquaeros 6
> 
> Fans are gt ap15s


Then it should be no Problem. According to the Scythe Page they need about 1W per Fan.

Is it normal that I cannot find 3-Pin Molex Splitters to 3-Pin Molex Splitters on PPCS or FCPU ?! 

In German Shops they are in every thinkable Versions ^^

*edit:*

Here we go









http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p7920_Y-Cable-3Pin-Molex-to-9x-3Pin-Molex-60cm----black.html


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering is there a fan splitters like akasa fan splitter but with 3 pin but not 4 pin.
> 
> I want a fan splitter w/ molex and but with 3 pins only.


Look at http://www.aquatuning.us/









There you get them...


----------



## rickyman0319

u give me the link. but where is the product?


----------



## kpoeticg

If you live in Kansas, no reason to order from Aquatuning just for some Y splitters. Literally any spot where you can buy any type of pc gear sells them.

The Akasa splitters you're thinking of are PWM splitters. You just want regular fan splitters. You can find a hundred different versions. Wires or PCB. They're very common.

NVM, just saw you mentioned Molex. This is directed at @rickyman0319 BTW.

How are you gonna control em? If there's only 3 pins, then you have to control em by voltage. You're just gonna run em all full speed plugged directly into your power supply? Because that's the type of cable you're looking for.

The Akasa splitters are PWM so they're powered from your PSU but still get PWM Speed Control from a fan controller. That's not possible with 3pin fans


----------



## psycho84

Fans -> Cables & adaptors

or Search for "3 pin molex (9x) 3 pin molex". Then you should find it...


----------



## Gunderman456

I bought straight G1/4 to 3/8IN and 90 degree 3/8IN OD 1/2IN G1/4 compression fittings.

The ring for the straight fittings fits over the tube no problem, but the ring for the 90 degree fittings is too small to go over the tube so that I can twist tight. Did I buy wrong, what size of 90 degree compression fitting should have I gotten?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res has been finalized..so im off to Justin and Shaun at PARVUM this weekend for some acrylic action,I get to see their monster in action!
> 
> Now the res fills 6 bays! Plus the AC XT in the very top to fill it out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side view.
> 
> 
> 
> And an exploded view.


What are you using for your renders? At first I thought it was real


----------



## kpoeticg

Wait, all of those pics are renders, or just the exploded view???


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wait, all of those pics are renders, or just the exploded view???


look at top left of each photo it says rendering done


----------



## cyphon

What are your guys favorite PWM rad fans?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> look at top left of each photo it says rendering done


Holy crap. I absolutely couldn't tell. I thought those first 2 were real and he just showed a rendered pic for the exploded view. Damn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What are your guys favorite PWM rad fans?


I haven't heard the PWM Eloops yet, but i love the regular ones so i'm assuming the PWM's will be tight. I like Akasa Viper PWM's for 140mm


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

@ kpoeticg....i see you use the (Phobya NB-eLoop 1600rpm fans) how good are they on a rad,do the push plenty of air and how loud do they get at full speed....?


----------



## kpoeticg

My build's still WiP, so it's not up and running yet. I've only tested with them so far. I can't hear em at all running full speed though, on my rad or in open air

I'm gonna be running them in push with 3 AP-15's in pull on an EX360, haven't tested the sound of all 6 hooked up yet tho. I'm actually considering buying either 3 of the 2400RPM or 2000RPM PWM eLoops & installing the red blades & led's from my Phobya's, and running 3 GT AP-00's in pull

Noiseblocker fans are pretty much always excellent rad fans tho, & eLoops are their best model (might be my opinion)


----------



## Maximus Knight

I once installed 3 AP-15's in pull and 3 B12-3's in push on an EX360. Maxed out, you can definitely hear it from a few feet away but it is wind noise. No audible hum or buzz to me.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

So would you recommend the phobya eloops (which goes well with my colour scheme) or just get the NB eloops....


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So would you recommend the phobya eloops (which goes well with my colour scheme) or just get the NB eloops....


Haha, to me, eloops are eloops. Diff is color..get wot u like


----------



## kpoeticg

Phobya eLoops are NB eLoops with red blades. Alphacool eLoops are NB eLoops with blue blades. eLoops are eLoops

I got the Phobya versions because of the red blades. I'm thinking of putting the red blades on different eLoops for the higher RPM's

The only thing on Phobya eLoops that isn't made by NB is maybe the packaging. Probly even that is made by NB. It's just a marketing thing


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Haha, to me, eloops are eloops. Diff is color..get wot u like


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Phobya eLoops are NB eLoops with red blades. Alphacool eLoops are NB eLoops with blue blades. eLoops are eLoops
> 
> I got the Phobya versions because of the red blades. I'm thinking of putting the red blades on different eLoops for the higher RPM's
> 
> The only thing on Phobya eLoops that isn't made by NB is maybe the packaging. Probly even that is made by NB. It's just a marketing thing


Thx you both....


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx you both....


Welcome


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Gunderman456

Is there a tool you use to tighten the round compression fittings other then a face towel and a monkey wrench, which can still cause metal shavings?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Is there a tool you use to tighten the round compression fittings other then a face towel and a monkey wrench, which can still cause metal shavings?


Lol, dude, they don't need to be that tight. Hand tight has always worked for me.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Is there a tool you use to tighten the round compression fittings other then a face towel and a monkey wrench, which can still cause metal shavings?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, dude, they don't need to be that tight. Hand tight has always worked for me.


This. Any tighter than hand tight and you'll have an awful time trying to remove them next time. You also risk stripping the threads on the ring. Hand tight is all you need


----------



## Gunderman456

Ok, thanks!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Just as an fyi concerning the Noise Blocker PK-3's, they are not only great fans with great build quality, performance, and aesthetics, but they are also beautifully packaged with lots of nice extra features such as the dual braided power cables in differing lengths that allow for using as much or little cable as is necessary. Expensive to be sure, but well worth the price in my opinion...


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Just as an fyi concerning the Noise Blocker PK-3's, they are not only great fans with great build quality, performance, and aesthetics, but they are also beautifully packaged with lots of nice extra features such as the dual braided power cables in differing lengths that allow for using as much or little cable as is necessary. Expensive to be sure, but well worth the price in my opinion...


+1 packaging and contents are great on the PL- 2's as well


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yep. I use two PL-2's on my 240 rad!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> +1 packaging and contents are great on the PL- 2's as well


That's the way all of the NB fans I've gotten in the past have been packed, nice. Just wish they were cheaper still.


----------



## kpoeticg

German companies are always smart when it comes to little extra's.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> German companies are always smart when it comes to little extra's.


Sometime down the road I may swap out my AP-15's in push w/ the phobya Eloops since they're read and gorgeous, especially since I"m hearing they may have fixed the pull part, though wish I had found that info sooner and had it validated, I MIGHT have just ended up w/ them, but for now I think I'll be happy w/ the AP-15's after hearing them on earlier during a preliminary test w/ them.

Currently practicing on bending my acrylic before I start making runs.


----------



## kpoeticg

They didn't fix anything. eLoops are designed to be run in push. You can run them in pull too, they'll just be louder cuz of the aerodynamics of the fan blades.

The further the blades are away from whatever they're pulling through, the quieter they're supposed to be. But it's the aerodynamics of the blades that make them louder in pull. It's not like the fan doesn't work when it's in pull.

Also, i think NB/Phobya are coming out with an 1800RPM version of the red blade eLoops (or are they out already?). They might be catching on that people are mixing them with AP-15's

edit: nvm, they already came out with them. It's the transparent black blades in the 1800rpm version. http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16300_Phobya-NB-eLoop-1800rpm---Bionic-L-fter-Black-Edition---120x120x25mm--.html


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> German companies are always smart when it comes to little extra's.


Deutchland Deutchland!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sometime down the road I may swap out my AP-15's in push w/ the phobya Eloops since they're read and gorgeous, especially since I"m hearing they may have fixed the pull part, though wish I had found that info sooner and had it validated, I MIGHT have just ended up w/ them, but for now I think I'll be happy w/ the AP-15's after hearing them on earlier during a preliminary test w/ them.
> 
> Currently practicing on bending my acrylic before I start making runs.


When did they fix "the pull part"? Where did that come from?

I'm just wondering because as of ~3 weeks ago Blacknoise was answering customer support questions about the noise the eLoop makes in pull by saying that the eLoop's are not designed to be used in pull and advising to use a shroud if you want to use them that way.

And their eLoop website FAQ still says:
Quote:


> *When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?*
> 
> This is due to aerodynamics, simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessoires) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimised for.


If they fixed it perhaps someone should tell them about it?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> When did they fix "the pull part"? Where did that come from?
> 
> I'm just wondering because as of ~3 weeks ago Blacknoise was answering customer support questions about the noise the eLoop makes in pull by saying that the eLoop's are not designed to be used in pull and advising to use a shroud if you want to use them that way.
> 
> And their eLoop website FAQ still says:
> If they fixed it perhaps someone should tell them about it?


Didn't say they fixed , said I heard from a few in the other threads that there was mention that it was fixed in a new revision, and I never had a chance to validate it hence going the AP-15's a few tried it recently and claimed to hear nothing. I'm just saying if that was true then it would have sucked on my purchase as those were the fans I had originally wanted.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Another question for the pros,which would give better cooling....

Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm in push or XSPC EX360 Radiator in push/pull....?

Same question for the 240 version of both brand rads....


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm def not one of the pros, but in the meantime....

I'd say EX360 in P/P should definitely dissipate more watts. And if P/P is an option, maybe consider Black Ice GT Stealth also.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm def not one of the pros, but in the meantime....
> I'd say EX360 in P/P should definitely dissipate more watts. And if P/P is an option, maybe consider Black Ice GT Stealth also.


Already have the EX 360,and to my knowledge the black ice models aren't readily available here in aus....Really wanted to get the NB or Phobya Eloops but they wont work in push/pull....May just stick with my corsairs SP's and go push/pull on my EX 360 then,if the performance will be better....


----------



## kpoeticg

SP120's are good rad fans. I'd imagine that eLoops in P/P would be quieter than the SP120's but i could be wrong.

eLoops are just excellent at being silent in push, not as much in pull. Maybe still quieter than alot of other fans tho. It's not like they "don't work" in pull. Just not as superbly quiet as they are in push.

EX360 P/P with SP120's is str8 tho.


----------



## LunaP

so yeah first attempt w/ bending acrylic, seems i need to practice a bit on my timing, busted/twisted a tube somehow which isn't shown, heres the attempt after. Curious how long it took some of you to get some good bends? I can do a 90 or any other bend juts fine just after that on the same tube it seems to have issues a bit, though yeah I'm a noob I get that. Good thing I ordered extra tubing









If you're wondering why, its to come out of my CPU block and arch over a bit then go up then into my GPU block.


----------



## steelkevin

I wonder how people can claim GTs are silent at full speed. Do you meam that they're actually silent as in there is no noise at all including the wind noise or do you mean that the fans themselves are silent but there is still the same wind noise ?

Also, is there any proper testing of Akasa Apache Blacks in theitr 140mm version (not even sure there actually is a 120mm one) ? I'd really like to know if they're good to keep or worth swapping out.
Oh and a couple days ago I was shocked to see they were PWM when trying to find a deal on them to replace my two Yates and an FD case fan. So I pulled a box from the cupboard where I keep my PC parts' packagings and saw that they were indeed marked as PWM. I remember having heard that you shouldn't ever run PWM fans as regular fans off a regular fan controller. I have my on fan splitters hooked up to my Fractal Design Midi R2's fan controller (5/7/12V) and keep them at 5V most of the time and ramp them up to 7V when playing some BF4. I only ever bring them up to 12V to make a point. I wouldn't consider the noise tolerable for a sane person. Oh and I lost myself a bit there ^^. Wanted to mention it sooner in this rant but they're all 3 pin fans as far as I can remember. Aren't PWM fans supposed to be 4 pin ?


----------



## LunaP

Which gts are u referring to as there are many.

As far as my ap15s theyre dead silent thus far. Though ive yet to hook them into a fan controller only appliee power and listened to them for a good 5 minutes while working on photos and my room is dead silent.


----------



## szeged

i have 30+ AP 15s in my rig atm and all it sounds like is a slight woosh of the air being moved around in the case, none of that awful buzzsaw noise you get from other fans because of the motor. I would say the fan themselves are almost silent, all you really hear is the air being moved.

case is 2 feet from me on top of my desk.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've used an x3 250 top port as part of the loop, but since I wanted a fill port ALSO, I bought the multi port top they make for it. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=g30c97s169
> 
> And it's not that you CAN'T use the top port, they just recommend that you don't, and I'm not sure why honestly!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> unless you're using a motherboard that is smaller than a maximus VI extreme, expect fitment issues using a UT60 in push/pull up top. I'm installing my UT60's as we speak and there is very little clearance between the pull fans and the motherboard.


yea i know there left a small space with ut 60 p/p .My motherboard is msi mpower max (30.4cm)which is 1mm smaller than asus extreme vi thats why i want to use buttom ports of the reservoir.I can change the loop order but not sure if it is possible to get acrylic tubing fom behind like this?


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I wonder how people can claim GTs are silent at full speed. Do you meam that they're actually silent as in there is no noise at all including the wind noise or do you mean that the fans themselves are silent but there is still the same wind noise ?


literally no fan is silent, unless it's off. so when people refer to a fan as silent, they mean it's darn quiet, and what ever noise it does make is unobtrusive (not annoying).


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Some time ago, probably back in the 600 page range, I recall seeing a new rectangular (all clear acrylic) reservoir about the size of an HDD (maybe smaller), made by a European manufacture. I don't recall exactly who posted it for sure, but my instinct points to B Negative.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Some time ago, probably back in the 600 page range, I recall seeing a new rectangular (all clear acrylic) reservoir about the size of an HDD (maybe smaller), made by a European manufacture. I don't recall exactly who posted it for sure, but my instinct points to B Negative.


Danger den used to make a single 3.5" drive bay res, which technically is about the size of a 3.5"HDD, it was clear acrylic, had 2-g1/4 ports, and a separator that went 3/4 down the middle. I've been looking for one for a while now myself for a build I've got planned. And a lot of LED ports.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Is there a image of someone using a EK universal gpu block on a 770/780 Classified? I saw it once but didnt save it







need it for reference..


----------



## Inviso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Is there a image of someone using a EK universal gpu block on a 770/780 Classified? I saw it once but didnt save it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> need it for reference..


I have those on my 580 gtx.

What are you looking for? # of heatsinks you'll need for vrm and vram?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

What should I pay for a D5 pump? think I want to replace my xspc 750 pump/res unit.

Is there a way to make my 750 pump/res work as just a res if I buy just the D5 pump or do I need something like this?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16144/ex-res-372/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Black_Reservoir_-_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Installed.html


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Some time ago, probably back in the 600 page range, I recall seeing a new rectangular (all clear acrylic) reservoir about the size of an HDD (maybe smaller), made by a European manufacture. I don't recall exactly who posted it for sure, but my instinct points to B Negative.


You might mean the FrozenQ Flex-Tank res. It's 4" x 3" x 1.25"

They also made a new res for the NCase M1 itx case that's interesting if you like the flex-tank


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res has been finalized..so im off to Justin and Shaun at PARVUM this weekend for some acrylic action,I get to see their monster in action!
> 
> Now the res fills 6 bays! Plus the AC XT in the very top to fill it out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side view.
> 
> 
> 
> And an exploded view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you using for your renders? At first I thought it was real
Click to expand...

Keyshot plug in for Solidworks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wait, all of those pics are renders, or just the exploded view???


They are all renders,the SR2 lets me max the quality...24 cores go nomnom for rendering.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, those renders were sick

@ProfeZZor X

Flex-Tank Acrylic (Also comes black)



NCase M1 Res



Edit: I'm not sure but it looks like the N1 res mighta got delayed cuz of the fire in their shop. The Nov.8th shipping date on their site made me think it was out, but the lack of info on it makes me not sure...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Also look at Tecnofront res.


----------



## kpoeticg

All the reviews on the Tecnofront's talk about crazy leaking. I was checkin em out just brainstorming different ideas. It sounds like the build quality sucks tho...

I have no idea of there have been revisions or anything. Curious if anybody has 1st hand experience or even 2nd hand...


----------



## Cosworth

Hey guy's I'm looking to swap out my gpu this year possibly for a 780ti but I'm holding reservations about going for it as I was hoping to buy the pre-converted card from EVGA but they haven't released one. I was wondering if you guys had heard about anything on that front or should I go and buy the block for it and do the conversion myself like I did for my 580 instead of waiting?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> Hey guy's I'm looking to swap out my gpu this year possibly for a 780ti but I'm holding reservations about going for it as I was hoping to buy the pre-converted card from EVGA but they haven't released one. I was wondering if you guys had heard about anything on that front or should I go and buy the block for it and do the conversion myself like I did for my 580 instead of waiting?


It's in the works, as reviewers have seen it, but AFAIK I don't think EVGA has gave any hints as to when it will be released.


----------



## Cosworth

Thanks for the info I'll hold off on the upgrade for now


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> Thanks for the info I'll hold off on the upgrade for now


If you want a classified, get one and put your own block on it, it won't void your warranty and the block you choose to put on it will likely be a better block than the junk swiftech one they use!!


----------



## Cosworth

Well to be honest I was hoping to get a super clock card and was eyeing uk an EK block in case there wasn't going to be a pre-convert model, you'd recommended converting myself anyway?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> Well to be honest I was hoping to get a super clock card and was eyeing uk an EK block in case there wasn't going to be a pre-convert model, you'd recommended converting myself anyway?


get a reference card instead of superclock and save some more money to spend on the backplate to come with it









the superclock cards dont overclock any higher than the reference cards.

get a EK block over the hydro copper, the hydro coppers are stupid expensive compared to the EK one, along with sub par vrm/vram cooling compared to pretty much any other block out for the 780 780ti titan and classified cards atm.


----------



## Cosworth

Hmm that sounds pretty good but I've noticed the sc card the one with dual fans has a higher clock over the other cards. In theory I should be able to afford the card, the block and the backplate


----------



## szeged

if you are watercooling it really isnt worth it to pay extra for the non reference fan design just so you can take it off.

Also dont buy a gpu just because the stock clocks are higher please


----------



## VSG

That's just the factory overclock and you can very likely do much better yourself the reference card.

Edit: Got szeged! Or is it szegeded?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

If i use a regular brush,to brush some dust off my rad while still in the case,could this case static electricty and damage any components....?


----------



## Cosworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if you are watercooling it really isnt worth it to pay extra for the non reference fan design just so you can take it off.
> 
> Also dont buy a gpu just because the stock clocks are higher please


That sounds fair to be honest, that said there's only like something around a £15 difference in prices at most. I will more than likely get a reference based card now though thanks for the help


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> If i use a regular brush,to brush some dust off my rad while still in the case,could this case static electricty and damage any components....?


Probably not, unless you go touching the brush to board/card/ram circuitry, but I'd be more worried about bending up the fins on a rad with a brush. They are usually pretty delicate. Plus I'm not sure how good a brush would be able to clean out a rad.

Compressed air would be your best bet, and if you're using an air compressor (as opposed to cans of air or a datavac) you'll want to turn the regulator pressure down a bit or blow from a bit of a distance (or both) because you can damage fins with a blast of compressed air too.


----------



## jokrik

AC goodness for my 290's








including active backplates


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Pics of the plates please.


----------



## ikem

getting it all buttoned up


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pics of the plates please.


Yeah I had to look them up. Think this is the active 290X backplate he's talking about ...



http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3150


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pics of the plates please.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I had to look them up. Think this is the active 290X backplate he's talking about ...
> 
> 
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3150


Yeah it is indeed that one

I'll have proper pictures tomorrow, its been a long day


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> What should I pay for a D5 pump? think I want to replace my xspc 750 pump/res unit.
> 
> Is there a way to make my 750 pump/res work as just a res if I buy just the D5 pump or do I need something like this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16144/ex-res-372/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Black_Reservoir_-_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Installed.html


I am not sure if the 750 can still shoot water through the pump effectively if that pump itself is not operating. I have wondered this myself but yet to try. Could always power that pump still *plus* have a D5 somwhere else in the loop. And yeah if you want to use the D5 _in_ a bay res you would need a new one like that which you linked. Or could get like an EK tube res top for the D5 which is another space (and fitting/tubing) saver.

A good deal on a used D5 Vario is like $60 shipped. Can get one new at Sidewinder for around $70 iirc.


----------



## cyphon

Dub post


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This. Any tighter than hand tight and you'll have an awful time trying to remove them next time. You also risk stripping the threads on the ring. Hand tight is all you need


This and risk cracking the tube causing a leak
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> so yeah first attempt w/ bending acrylic, seems i need to practice a bit on my timing, busted/twisted a tube somehow which isn't shown, heres the attempt after. Curious how long it took some of you to get some good bends? I can do a 90 or any other bend juts fine just after that on the same tube it seems to have issues a bit, though yeah I'm a noob I get that. Good thing I ordered extra tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're wondering why, its to come out of my CPU block and arch over a bit then go up then into my GPU block.


It definitely takes some practice









When you have to go more than one bend or it is a really tight space it can be tricky, especially the first couple times. I remember I blew like a whole pack of tube trying to get one really tight double bend at first. Now I could do the same bend in one or two tries no problem

By the time you get done with your build you will be a pro and one shotting your bends, just stay with it


----------



## psycho84




----------



## Dzuks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*






Nice job... What res are you using? I'm trying to move away from my dual bay res.


----------



## psycho84

It's a EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir...


----------



## thelude

Here is my expanded swiftech H220 loop in a corsair 700d case. 3 rads cooling a cpu and 2 gpu's.


----------



## rickyman0319

4 fans ( akasa viper) or 4 fans (NF-F12) w/ Ut60 (240)

which one is better?

how do u guys make ur wc system so nice and neat?


----------



## psycho84

I would take the NF-Fan's although they are extremly ugly


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Here is my expanded swiftech H220 loop in a corsair 700d case. 3 rads cooling a cpu and 2 gpu's.


Where's the third rad? I see a 120 on the back and a 240 in the bottom, am I missing something?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 4 fans ( akasa viper) or 4 fans (NF-F12) w/ Ut60 (240)
> 
> which one is better?
> 
> *how do u guys make ur wc system so nice and neat?*


Practice and the desire to have a good looking rig.

As for the fans,I would go with the Vipers...I am no fan of Noctua,weak fans that look like a (insert prosthetic limb here..and not a modern CF one,im talking '70's one with pulleys and whatnot)


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Where's the third rad? I see a 120 on the back and a 240 in the bottom, am I missing something?


Third is at the top. A 360 rad.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Third is at the top. A 360 rad.


Ah, ok. Good times.


----------



## rickyman0319

that WC system is for encoding and mining soon.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Practice and the desire to have a good looking rig.
> 
> As for the fans,I would go with the Vipers...I am no fan of Noctua,weak fans that look like a (insert prosthetic limb here..and not a modern CF one,im talking '70's one with pulleys and whatnot)












So long I have been trying to think of a good analogy for how they look. You sir, Nailed it!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow, those renders were sick
> 
> @ProfeZZor X
> 
> Flex-Tank Acrylic (Also comes black)
> 
> 
> NCase M1 Res
> 
> 
> Edit: I'm not sure but it looks like the N1 res mighta got delayed cuz of the fire in their shop. The Nov.8th shipping date on their site made me think it was out, but the lack of info on it makes me not sure...


Yeah, I believe that's the one. My idea is that I'd like to keep the mobo side of my case as clean and clutterless as possible, and conceal that tank on the cable side of my ST10 case in one of the HDD slots. Then just run the acrylic tubing from behind the wall.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i was trying to think of creative things i could do with like 4 or 5 of em since they're so damn tiny. The name Flex-Tank fits it very nicely. Still not sure what direction i'm gonna go yet.


----------



## spikezone2004

I just emptied my loop for the first time, it has been filled and running for 4 months or so. I emptied it to add new parts to my loop and also because my VRM blew on my motherboard so I figured I'd take it apart now since I can't use my computer. My tubing got severely discolored brownish and this is what my distilled water looked like when I emptied it


The little bits look like pieces of radiator that didn't come out when washing my rad before use but the brownish water I'm not to sure about any idea? I have better tubing now primoflex advanced LRT for when I rebuild it before was XSPC tubing that came with kit


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I just emptied my loop for the first time, it has been filled and running for 4 months or so. I emptied it to add new parts to my loop and also because my VRM blew on my motherboard so I figured I'd take it apart now since I can't use my computer. My tubing got severely discolored brownish and this is what my distilled water looked like when I emptied it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little bits look like pieces of radiator that didn't come out when washing my rad before use but the brownish water I'm not to sure about any idea? I have better tubing now primoflex advanced LRT for when I rebuild it before was XSPC tubing that came with kit


Open up your blocks and make sure there is no gunk in the fin areas.

I too just did a full clean last night and seen little debris in the water.


----------



## Striker36

I know its not exactly one of the tiny tanks but if any of you are wondering about the quality of the Alpha Cool HF 38 Cyclone type reservoirs let me tell that its GREAT



the acrylic tube is super think crystal clear (except for my fingerprints all over it) and the end caps seem to seal phenominally well with VERY well cut threads and a beefy O-Ring at the base. my only complaint is that in order to use the anti-cyclone pipe thing is that you will likely need to grab a couple adapters as the ports through for that and one other hole are HUGE and will not accept standard fittings with out an adaptor. HOWEVER their are 2 other ports on that cap that will take normal fittings and the res comes with 2 large plugs and a small one.


----------



## WonderMutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I just emptied my loop for the first time, it has been filled and running for 4 months or so. I emptied it to add new parts to my loop and also because my VRM blew on my motherboard so I figured I'd take it apart now since I can't use my computer. My tubing got severely discolored brownish and this is what my distilled water looked like when I emptied it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little bits look like pieces of radiator that didn't come out when washing my rad before use but the brownish water I'm not to sure about any idea? I have better tubing now primoflex advanced LRT for when I rebuild it before was XSPC tubing that came with kit


I couldn't say, but mine looks like that every time I empty it (which is about every 6 months), I've just never been worried about it because everything seems to be working as it should.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have a rad ( UT60 (240)) on top of my SM8 case. I have right now Viper on top fan and F12 on bottom fan. it is intake right now. I am test it out. I am wondering does it matter if I use top fan or bottom for intake or not.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've actually been liking the looks of the Alphacool Lighttower res lately. I like how it's pretty much a universal pump top.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have a rad ( UT60 (240)) on top of my SM8 case. I have right now Viper on top fan and F12 on bottom fan. it is intake right now. I am test it out. I am wondering does it matter if I use top fan or bottom for intake or not.


I think Vipers and F12's are both bad choices for 120's. Vipers are great for 140's, but there's too many better options for 120's.

When you say "top fan as intake" do you mean the top "rad" as intake? Or do you mean for push/pull?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I just emptied my loop for the first time, it has been filled and running for 4 months or so. I emptied it to add new parts to my loop and also because my VRM blew on my motherboard so I figured I'd take it apart now since I can't use my computer. My tubing got severely discolored brownish and this is what my distilled water looked like when I emptied it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little bits look like pieces of radiator that didn't come out when washing my rad before use but the brownish water I'm not to sure about any idea? I have better tubing now primoflex advanced LRT for when I rebuild it before was XSPC tubing that came with kit


Probably rad flux. Did you flush your rads with boiling water several times before use?


----------



## spikezone2004

Thanks for all the replies, I flushed my rad was like 2 hours before installing I didn't use boiling water though just room temp water.

I am planning on taking my block apart checking inside what's a good tooll to use to clean the fins or just run it under water?

Should I posibly try cleaning my res/pump incase it has any build up to keep it running good?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Thanks for all the replies, I flushed my rad was like 2 hours before installing I didn't use boiling water though just room temp water.
> 
> I am planning on taking my block apart checking inside what's a good tooll to use to clean the fins or just run it under water?
> 
> Should I posibly try cleaning my res/pump incase it has any build up to keep it running good?


Toothbrush is a good tool. If you are cleaning your blocks, it wouldn't hurt to give the res a quick scrub too


----------



## Striker36

I always used a soft toothbrush on my blocks.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've actually been liking the looks of the Alphacool Lighttower res lately. I like how it's pretty much a universal pump top.
> 
> I think Vipers and F12's are both bad choices for 120's. Vipers are great for 140's, but there's too many better options for 120's.
> 
> When you say "top fan as intake" do you mean the top "rad" as intake? Or do you mean for push/pull?


yes I meant push/pull intake fans right now.

2 x vipers intake fans
Ut60 (240)
2 x NF-F12 intake fans

what are good PWM fans except AP-15 for UT60 series rad?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well AP-15's aren't PWM. NB makes PWM eLoops tho. They have both a higher speed and lower speed model. I'd probly go with those personally. Especially if you're willing to mix fans, i'd say eLoops as push at least.


----------



## rickyman0319

I got 2 x red NB eloop fans (but they are not pwm).

Viper
rad
nb eloop

like this

or which NB fan r u taking about ?

Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-P 120mmx25mm Ultra Silent Bionic Blade PWM Fan - 800 - 2000 RPM

Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 120mmx25mm Ultra Silent Bionic Blade PWM Fan - 400 - 1500 RPM

which one u prefer?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> yes I meant push/pull intake fans right now.
> 
> 2 x vipers intake fans
> Ut60 (240)
> 2 x NF-F12 intake fans
> 
> what are good PWM fans except AP-15 for UT60 series rad?


I actually was just debating this as well....

AP-15s are not PWM. The AP-29 and AP-30s should be PWM fans by Scythe. Vipers are popular PWM fans,

I am going to try the Swiftech Helix PWM version myself. I saw some curves for them and they look to be between the AP-14 and AP-15s, so stab in the dark at performance would be that they are not quite as good as AP-15s, but you get PWM control and still good performance. They look suspiciously similar to the Scythe fans too...but a nice standout white blade and dark black holder versus dull black holder and grey blade


----------



## kpoeticg

All eLoops are really the same fan, just different speeds and/or color schemes. NB makes 2 PWM eLoops. If you're gonna be mixing fans, i definitely recommend using the eLoops in push and a similar rpm rad fan in pull.

If you want PWM, get one of the PWM model eLoops.


----------



## rickyman0319

they don't have eloop red fans w/ pwm .









I can use like this

eloop w/ 1500
rad
f12

or eloop w/ 2000
rad
viper

do they both work like this?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well AP-15's aren't PWM. NB makes PWM eLoops tho. They have both a higher speed and lower speed model. I'd probly go with those personally. Especially if you're willing to mix fans, i'd say eLoops as push at least.


THIS one hundred and sixty seven thousand percent! I'm gonna order some for my front intake for AF since I hear they're pretty good w/ AF so that'll be about 6 or so, then maybe replace 8 of my top down intakes for push w/ them as well sometime int he future for aesthetics if I like them.

As far as RAD flushing goes, when I got mine I used a funnel and poured distilled in them and shook it back and forth for a good 5-10 minutes before dumping, is that ok or should I do another flush run after leak testing it?

Practicing my acrylic bending skills for now while ordering a few more fittings, need to get the timings down better so I don't make blisters and holes in some areas. Trying to go w/o needing any angle fittings IF at all possible. Though if I end up needing some are there any compatible 1/2" OD angle fittings available?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone have any tips for flushing parts prior to install, some of my parts are used except for my 120 rad. I bought a pond pump and a inline water particle filter as well.


----------



## kpoeticg

I use a pond pump & GE water filter for flushing. I know i've already posted these in here a few times, but here ya go



Spoiler: PiCS


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys wanted to get your opinion of what you think would look better in here.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22097/ex-tub-2357/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Revolver_Compression_Diamond_Knurled_Fittings_-_10_Pack_-_Anodized_Silver.html?tl=g30c409s2019&id=SsUnI5bt&mv_pc=930

or

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22098/ex-tub-2358/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Revolver_Compression_Diamond_Knurled_Fittings_-_10_Pack_-_Anodized_Black.html?tl=g30c409s2019&id=SsUnI5bt&mv_pc=920

Here's a pic of the current layout (adding 2 more cards later )

tubing = clear water = red

Current fittings are standed revolves non diamond and they're ok, but just looking at other options, though I am liking the color of the caps on the XSPC GPU blocks... not sure if thats silver , nickel or chrome, but thought the fittings might bring the colors together.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey guys wanted to get your opinion of what you think would look better in here.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22097/ex-tub-2357/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Revolver_Compression_Diamond_Knurled_Fittings_-_10_Pack_-_Anodized_Silver.html?tl=g30c409s2019&id=SsUnI5bt&mv_pc=930
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22098/ex-tub-2358/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Revolver_Compression_Diamond_Knurled_Fittings_-_10_Pack_-_Anodized_Black.html?tl=g30c409s2019&id=SsUnI5bt&mv_pc=920
> 
> Here's a pic of the current layout (adding 2 more cards later )
> 
> tubing = clear water = red
> 
> Current fittings are standed revolves non diamond and they're ok, but just looking at other options, though I am liking the color of the caps on the XSPC GPU blocks... not sure if thats silver , nickel or chrome, but thought the fittings might bring the colors together.


I went with black Rigid Revolver(non diamond) and just two Nickel plated fittings to match my block. The Silver will accent and stand out much better, while the black will keep it stealthy. Depends what you're going for. Can't really go wrong as both look great.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> I know its not exactly one of the tiny tanks but if any of you are wondering about the quality of the Alpha Cool HF 38 Cyclone type reservoirs let me tell that its GREAT
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the acrylic tube is super think crystal clear (except for my fingerprints all over it) and the end caps seem to seal phenominally well with VERY well cut threads and a beefy O-Ring at the base. my only complaint is that in order to use the anti-cyclone pipe thing is that you will likely need to grab a couple adapters as the ports through for that and one other hole are HUGE and will not accept standard fittings with out an adaptor. HOWEVER their are 2 other ports on that cap that will take normal fittings and the res comes with 2 large plugs and a small one.


Dude that thing looks mean, do they make them smaller?


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Dude that thing looks mean, do they make them smaller?


I know they make the V.2 ones (that one that i have) in 250mm and 150mm lengths other than that I'm really not sure... I wish I could offer more but I only ordered this one on a whim after I had been drinking. haha. I was a little worried after seeing some pretty crappy reviews of a couple other models of their stuff but Im thinking that in this case they might be unfounded.

here is the 150mm
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20801/ex-res-617/Alphacool_HF_38_Cape_Cyclone_Reservoir_-_150_V2.html?tl=c97s165b42&id=iQP5xSrB&mv_pc=1865

and the 250 that I ordered.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20802/ex-res-618/Alphacool_HF_38_Cape_Cyclone_Reservoir_-_250_V2.html?tl=c97s165b42&id=iQP5xSrB&mv_pc=1867

I wish I had more info or experience to offer you on it.

OH! I DID learn that the brackets for EK tube reservoirs fit this one too. its not a perfect fit but its more than adequate if you prefer the small ones to the big clip ones that come with it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I think those caps on the XSPC block look like polished hematite (shiny dark grey color) e.g. Bitspower Black Sparkle. At least the ones on my XSPC 680 block are and those look similar.


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering what make NB eloop fans so good?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering what make NB eloop fans so good?


In theory it uses less power and it emitts less nois, youll get a more straight airflow because of the outer rings on the blades wich result in higher pressure and they look awesome


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering what make NB eloop fans so good?


The aerodynamic Design of the Blades...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well here's the translated marketing crap. See below thread too of course.
Quote:


> With the new bionic fans keeps the fans a whole new technology enters the market. The largest source of noise of modern high-quality fans are swirling in the air stream. These are created when cutting through the edges of the blades when they rotate the air. The new Bionic wing design solves this turbulence, reducing the largest source of noise audible. The basic operating principle of the so-called loop rotor was researched by Dr. Rudolf Bannasch bionics and developed. The application was subsequently carried out by implementing Noiseblocker. The basis for this was a research commissioned by the Federal Ministry for Research and Technology. The task contains more applied research with the ultimate goal of development of the quietest fans of the IT world.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1289723/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-120mm-bionic-loop-propeller-fans


----------



## psycho84

Noiseblocker will better bring die eloops in 140mm ^^


----------



## rickyman0319

will F12 at top and eloop w/1500 fan on bottom works with ut60 or not?

or

will viper at top and eloop w/ 2000 fan on bottom works with ut60 or not?

what is a good combination fans w/ eloop on bottom?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> will F12 at top and eloop w/1500 fan on bottom works with ut60 or not?
> 
> or
> 
> will viper at top and eloop w/ 2000 fan on bottom works with ut60 or not?
> 
> what is a good combination fans w/ eloop on bottom?


I try not to mix and match fans. If you are using eloops and want to run push/pull, then get a couple shrouds to decouple and run them both top and bottom. You probably are fine with just push on that rad tho


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> will F12 at top and eloop w/1500 fan on bottom works with ut60 or not?
> 
> or
> 
> will viper at top and eloop w/ 2000 fan on bottom works with ut60 or not?
> 
> what is a good combination fans w/ eloop on bottom?


You need to change your perspective about "what will work". Anything will work. The crappiest fans on the planet will work. It's about the best performance you can get for your money and available space

eLoops perform best when they're pushing air through a rad instead of pulling through. So top and bottom mean nothing to the people reading your post. Push & Pull are what's relevant. F12's max out at 1500rpm and sound loud at that point. I've never had 120mm vipers so can't comment.

Pretty much any fan recommendation around here isn't just based on airflow. ALOTTTTT of fans can move a ton of air. The highest recommended fans are always the ones that have a good cfm or sp : noise ratio. So, making the assumption that you don't care what your rig sounds like, any number of fans that can go fast will perform incredibly. The difference between fans is noise


----------



## rickyman0319

I am running 4.4ghz @ 1.32v (i7 4770k)

with top fan only (viper) (pull intake)

top fan only 84,91,94,83

and this is 1 movie encoding

I am trying to be little cooling on those temp with 4 fans

eloop
shround
rad
eloop

like that?

114mm rad on top on sm8 case


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am running 4.4ghz @ 1.32v (i7 4770k)
> 
> with top fan only (viper)
> 
> top fan only 84,91,94,83
> 
> and this is 1 movie encoding
> 
> I am trying to be little cooling on those temp with 4 fans
> 
> eloop
> shround
> rad
> eloop
> 
> like that?


Are you saying you are getting 84-94C on your CPU under water?!?!?!

If this is the case, then just doing push/pull or a fan upgrade will not get you where you need to be temp wise.

Which size UT60 do you have? I am assuming it is the 240 rad?
What CPU Block?
What is the ambient temperature in your room where the pc is?
What pump do you have?
What other components are in your loop?

With only 1.32v on your CPU that is extremely high for any type of cooling. My guess is that your block is not seated correctly or still has the sticker on the bottom. That or you do not have enough water flow.


----------



## kpoeticg

eLoops in pull are quietest with like 10-20mm between the blades and fins. Alot of people are mixing eLoops with other fans tho. Particularly Gentle Typhoons. The newish CM JetFlo's are supposed to be decent too. Also PWM. They max at like 2200rpm


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Are you saying you are getting 84-94C on your CPU under water?!?!?!
> 
> If this is the case, then just doing push/pull or a fan upgrade will not get you where you need to be temp wise.
> 
> Which size UT60 do you have? I am assuming it is the 240 rad?
> What CPU Block?
> What is the ambient temperature in your room where the pc is?
> What pump do you have?
> What other components are in your loop?


1. yes it is 240 rad.
2. Ek supreme HF
3. 76F
4. it is old pump. x20 750
5. it is only cpu right now.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am running 4.4ghz @ 1.32v (i7 4770k)
> 
> with top fan only (viper) (pull intake)
> 
> top fan only 84,91,94,83
> 
> and this is 1 movie encoding
> 
> I am trying to be little cooling on those temp with 4 fans
> 
> eloop
> shround
> rad
> eloop
> 
> like that?
> 
> 114mm rad on top on sm8 case


those temps suck dude. i would look into that, even with stock fans they should be lower. i think that cooler needs to be reinstalled with new thermal paste or something!!!!!!!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes something is wrong even with that crappy old pump (I have plenty of experience with those things). Bad mount? Those are stock air cooler temps if not worse. Like at or near TJ Max, on core 3 anyway...


----------



## rickyman0319

all the fan ( front, bottom, top ) are intake and rear is only exhaust rightnow.

remember those temp is only pull intake and not push intake. does it make any difrerent if it is only pull intake or not?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 1. yes it is 240 rad.
> 2. Ek supreme HF
> 3. 76F
> 4. it is old pump. x20 750
> 5. it is only cpu right now.


Yeah, I'd check your CPU block and make sure that it is seated correctly. With that setup, I'd estimate your temps would be at worst in the 40s C with your ambient temp. Make sure the sticker is taken off, it is secure, and thermal paste is applied correctly

Now, if the temps you posted are in F temp scale, then those are outstanding temps and you are worrying about nothing, lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> all the fan ( front, bottom, top ) are intake and rear is only exhaust rightnow.
> 
> remember those temp is only pull intake and not push intake. does it make any difrerent if it is only pull intake or not?


Intake vs Exhaust
Push vs Pull vs Push/Pull

None of those combinations would cause THAT much of a change, you may get 5C difference at best with config change.


----------



## rickyman0319

the wb is 90 degree ( top is in and bottom is out)


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> all the fan ( front, bottom, top ) are intake and rear is only exhaust right now.
> 
> remember those temp is only pull intake and not push intake. does it make any different if it is only pull intake or not?


Yes, in my experience, pull only is the least efficient way to run fans on a rad, i will only runs fans in push or push/pull.........


----------



## rickyman0319

okay I will try to run push with this setup to see it make a difference.

running encoding a movie right now.

push fan (intake) only

update soon.


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Parts are starting to come in.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, in my experience, pull only is the least efficient way to run fans on a rad, i will only runs fans in push or push/pull.........


Not necessarily.

There is little difference between the two with most fans. Generally speaking, pull works better with low RPM and push works better with high RPM. But even still, there is not too big of a difference on most fans.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> the wb is 90 degree ( top is in and bottom is out)


please use Real Temp, then run prime95 for 15min or so, take a screenshot of Real Temp, and post it

Prime95: http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/
Real Temp: http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/


----------



## rickyman0319

do u want it push , pull or p/p?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> With that setup, I'd estimate your temps would be at worst in the 40s C with your ambient temp.


i dont see 40*C core happening on water on an overclocked 4770k. and you say at the worst in the 40's? never. not on water.


----------



## szeged

if you delid a 4770k maybe, but leaving it as is? 40c is a tough one on water lol.


----------



## rickyman0319

I also delid the cpu. I use gelid extreme paste.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I also delid the cpu. I use gelid extreme paste.


Did you use a special mount kit and remove the CPU retaining device on the board also???


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do u want it push , pull or p/p?


doesn't really matter
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i dont see 40*C core happening on water on an overclocked 4770k. and you say at the worst in the 40's? never. not on water.


yeah, that was a bit of an exaggeration for 4770k. I was looking more at the volts (1.32) at wasn't thinking about it being a 4770k







. Still 80-90 is a bit high though


----------



## rickyman0319

I did not use any special mount kit. I mount it with the top on it.

I am almost finish with prime95. later I will post it. with push viper fan only.

sorry let start over again.


----------



## morencyam

Ricky, as others have mentioned, screenshots of your temps while running any kind of stress would greatly help everyone understand your situation better. A picture of your loop would probably help as well.

AFAIK, the special "mount kit" that Jimhans1 is referring to is only needed if you installed the waterblock on the CPU without putting the IHS back on the CPU die.

But yes, if those temps you posted are in Celsius, there is something seriously wrong with your loop. I would also recommend replacing that 750 pump. It might be fine with just te CPU and 240 rad, but if you ever want to add more radiators and blocks that pump will struggle. It's also not very reliable to begin with and I've seen a few posts of people having them literally explode
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> I did not use any special mount kit. I mount it with the top on it.
> 
> I am almost finish with prime95. later I will post it. with push viper fan only.


How about a screenshot of the temps too. You could even post a shot of the temps while you are encoding as that probably puts quite a bit of stress on the CPU as well


----------



## stickg1

This kid rides the short bus, I'm telling you.


----------



## rickyman0319

here is my inside pc


----------



## Jimhans1

If i was CL, I'd be pissed. Lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

All that empty space makes me sad =\


----------



## rickyman0319

okay

why are you so mad if I have a lot of spaces?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> This kid rides the short bus, I'm telling you.


Yeah, not disagreeing there with some of his questions and phrasing. Just trying to be helpful though as I've gotten my far share of help from this forum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is my inside pc


Are you using the correct in and out ports on the CPU block. I have an EK Supreme HF as well, although the square version, and the post that is closer to the center is the IN and the one closer to the edge is the OUT
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If i was CL, I'd be pissed. Lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> All that empty space makes me sad =\


Yeah, total waste of all that space. Waste of the amazing cable management features as well. I assume it's still a WIP though and he'll fill and tidy it up more. At least I hope so anyway


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If i was CL, I'd be pissed. Lol.


LoL










more cable management at least..


----------



## rickyman0319

15 min prime95

push only (viper)


----------



## stickg1

Well probably because you spent hundreds on a case but $60 on a pump/res combo.

I think you botched the reTIM on your delid, botched the TIM application on your IHS, or did not mount the CPU block properly, or any combination of all three.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> okay
> 
> why are you so mad if I have a lot of spaces?


He didn't say Mad, he said sad. There is a lot of "wasted" space in there. I think that's what he meant.


----------



## Roxycon

Oh god, the excessive amount of red tubing would make up for the clear runs aand you should plug in the fan connector before saying temps are bad


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more cable management at least..


I am noobie on cable management also.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Are you using the correct in and out ports on the CPU block. I have an EK Supreme HF as well, although the square version, and the post that is closer to the center is the IN and the one closer to the edge is the OUT


looks like the right call to me.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well probably because you spent hundreds on a case but $60 on a pump/res combo.
> 
> I think you botched the reTIM on your delid, botched the TIM application on your IHS, or did not mount the CPU block properly, or any/*ALL* combination of all three.


FTFY


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> 
> 15 min prime95
> 
> push only (viper)


And going by the pic, your CPU already started to throttle down due to heat being to high.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Are you using the correct in and out ports on the CPU block. I have an EK Supreme HF as well, although the square version, *and the post that is closer to the center is the IN and the one closer to the edge is the OUT*
> 
> Yeah, total waste of all that space. Waste of the amazing cable management features as well. I assume it's still a WIP though and he'll fill and tidy it up more. At least I hope so anyway


This is correct.

Ricky, if you have the flow going in the outlet, then you will have crap flow through the block and get bad temps. Please double check this


----------



## Striker36

I'm sure that disconnected fan cable I'm seeing isn't helping ANYTHING

and I think chances are good that stickg1 nailed it.... on the de-lid you really dont need hardly any TIM at all and on the lid between the water block and the chip any more than a pea sized dot is too much.....

honestly dude... I think you may have bitten off more than you can chew at the moment..... it might be time to take a BIG step back and read EVERYTHING you can get your hands on...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> He didn't say Mad, he said sad. There is a lot of "wasted" space in there. I think that's what he meant.


^^^









With an amazing case like that, you have soooo much more rad/res/fan space than you're using. Especially when you're worried about temps. You can fit a top quality loop in there without even modding or breaking a sweat.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an amazing case like that, you have soooo much more rad/res/fan space than you're using. Especially when you're worried about temps. You can fit a top quality loop in there without even modding or breaking a sweat.


If you were crafty, you could fit 2 or 3 high quality loops in that case


----------



## rickyman0319

what do u guys mean by quality loops?

so is the temp looks ok or not to u guys?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what do u guys mean by quality loops?
> 
> so is the temp looks ok or not to u guys?


No the temps are not ok.

You should look into what everyone was commenting on. Check your flow direction into the CPU block. It looks like you have your in and out backwards. This would cause a lot of issues. If that isn't the case and/or you are still having issues, the the delid is probably messed up.

by quality loops we were just referring to big builds with lotsa bells and whistles


----------



## kpoeticg

ricky, i feel like you ask questions and don't read responses. No the temps are not okay. Go back and read the last cpl pages to find out why

Top quality loop = quality pump, quality res, quality rad'S. It's like you bought a brand new 3D LED backlit 4k TV and hooked up your cable box to the RCA inputs

It's hard to make sense out of investing money in a sweet CL case that was designed around great cooling. And then getting the cheapest cooling components you can buy


----------



## rickyman0319

does it matter the pump combo is at the bottom or top of the case?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> does it matter the pump combo is at the bottom or top of the case?


No.

there is like a 98% chance it is something to do with your CPU block. Again, either your inlet and outlet are swaped, the block isn't seated correctly, or you messed up the delid. Or combo of these.

Check the easiest one first, the inlet and outlet


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ricky, i feel like you ask questions and don't read responses. No the temps are not okay. Go back and read the last cpl pages to find out why


This, over and over again. This!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> does it matter the pump combo is at the bottom or top of the case?


What matters more is that crap pump and major lack of radiators with all that space


----------



## wermad

Making some progress. Still a bit to go


----------



## rickyman0319

this is the pic when I change the radiator around


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Making some progress. Still a bit to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: More Awesome!


A) Awesome work as usual!
B) Thanks for breaking the **** show that was going on in here, lol
C) Ricky, this is good example of good utilization of space


----------



## Ithanul

Well, finally starting on my rebuild. I am having so much fun with a dremel.

Rig before complete tear down.


So far I got with the rebuild.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> 
> this is the pic when I change the radiator around


except that all you did was spin it 180*. nothing changed....

is red pump side of the res or is clear pump side?

the MIDDLE of the block is IN. side is OUT.

SLOW DOWN.

READ WHAT PEOPLE ARE TELLING YOU.

we cant help if you dont let us


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is the pic when I change the radiator around


Dude, are you trolling?

You just spun the radiator around. Where in the last 8 pages did anyone say anything about the radiator? And what would that accomplish?
Do you know the difference between a CPU block and a radiator? We said to change the tubes on the CPU block around......

I officially give up and will not respond to anymore posts of yours until you read, comprehend, and try what everyone has been telling you.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering what make NB eloop fans so good?


Without sounding too rude and I know it will.
I am wondering why you don't do some of your own research and/or start your own thread for all the HELP ME questions you are bombing this thread with.
We don't mind helping out for sure - but daily you are asking questions that can be found by using the search function of the forum.
Many of your questions have been answered previously.
Please try the search function before posting up your questions.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Without sounding too rude and I know it will.
> I am wondering why you don't do some of your own research and/or start your own thread for all the HELP ME questions you are bombing this thread with.
> We don't mind helping out for sure - but daily you are asking questions that can be found by using the search function of the forum.
> Many of your questions have been answered previously.
> Please try the search function before posting up your questions.


and i hate to say it but b-neg also tells people to start a thread. this is supposed to be a picture gallery thread. too much talk and questions and not enough pics.


----------



## stickg1

lol, this dude can't be serious...


----------



## rickyman0319

I need to take apart and fix it , I know what is the problem.

right now, rad out -> pump out - and rad in -> wb in

clear tubing is pump combo in -> wb out


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Without sounding too rude and I know it will.
> *I am wondering why you don't do some of your own research and/or start your own thread for all the HELP ME questions you are bombing this thread with.*
> We don't mind helping out for sure - but daily you are asking questions that can be found by using the search function of the forum.
> Many of your questions have been answered previously.
> Please try the search function before posting up your questions.


I've tried telling him this but to no avail. We've done all we can to help but it's like he's not even listening to a single suggestion.

Ricky, I think your best bet at this point is to sell off all the WC'ing gear and just an AIO unit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I need to take apart and fix it , I know what is the problem.
> 
> right now, rad out -> pump out - and rad in -> wb in
> 
> clear tubing is pump combo in -> wb out


----------



## rickyman0319

that is what I thought also when I change turn it around.

sorry about it. I did not meant to be rude.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I need to take apart and fix it , I know what is the problem.
> 
> right now, rad out -> pump out - and rad in -> wb in
> 
> clear tubing is pump combo in -> wb out


Just going from the picture, THAT description isn't even right. Please, STOP. Read every manual that came with your hardware, and follow it to the letter.! And actually read the replies we've posted.


----------



## morencyam

I'm beginning to wonder if that is even his rig or just some pictures he found on google


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Without sounding too rude and I know it will.
> I am wondering why you don't do some of your own research and/or start your own thread for all the HELP ME questions you are bombing this thread with.
> We don't mind helping out for sure - but daily you are asking questions that can be found by using the search function of the forum.
> Many of your questions have been answered previously.
> Please try the search function before posting up your questions.


This isnt the first thread hes been invading alot completely derailed my fan thread for pages confusing people to where I ended up goin ap15s anyways lol.

From the sounds of it hes not looking to learn but just be told how to do it from start to finish. Even I do my best by researching and askinh minimal questions ( mostly opinions) to affirm since Im wishy washy at times and kpoeticg normally carries the luna mallet and usually only takes a swing or 2 to clear any derps









<3 u gaiz btw


----------



## kpoeticg

Ricky, u need to focus less on translating peoples answers into quick fixes. People have been giving you explanations so you can comprehend and understand what the problem is. Not just flip this and swap that. You should not be watercooling your computer if your not willing to understand how watercooling works. It's a disaster waiting to happen.

You flipping through pages of people thoroughly trying to explain things to you and trying to pull a single quick answer out of all of it helps no1. Because then you're just gonna keep asking questions that have been answered for you a million times. This is computer enthusiast forum. Read & Comprehend.

Lolllllll @ the Luna Mallet


----------



## szeged

ricky, i think you should take your time and do everything right the first time, it would cut out a lot of time in the long run


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

My rig as she sits now,i remember being afraid to water cool my pc until i came across this thread and the helpful members....


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ricky, i think you should take your time and do everything right the first time, it would cut out a lot of time in the long run


that is true. I almost everytime I did so hurry but I don't know almost everything about watercooling system.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> that is true. I almost everytime I did so hurry but I don't know almost everything about watercooling system.


Best thing to do honestly is to take it apart and piece by piece put it together, easier to manage this way and each time you do it you get better and get more creative, my builds taking forever thanks to parts which I just ordered 160$ worth of fittings to prep for any spawned creativity that comes my way. That + I want to ensure quality work so I don't get murdered by showing some haggled build and having B neg coming out screaming "HAGUS!~!!" and everything going BLACK


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My rig as she sits now,i remember being afraid to water cool my pc until i came across this thread and the helpful members....


Now THAT is a quality loop. Not normally a fan of red themed builds, but I have to give you credit for that one. Amazing work Reaper!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Best thing to do honestly is to take it apart and piece by piece put it together, easier to manage this way and each time you do it you get better and get more creative, my builds taking forever thanks to parts which I just ordered 160$ worth of fittings to prep for any spawned creativity that comes my way. That + I want to ensure quality work so I don't get murdered by showing some haggled build and having B neg coming out screaming "HAGUS!~!!" and everything going BLACK


Speaking of B Neg, surprised I haven't seen him chiming in on this crapschute. He's probably going to pound his head against the desk when he sees all this


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> My rig as she sits now,i remember being afraid to water cool my pc until i came across this thread and the helpful members....












looks great!

is it me or is your pump slightly raised up on the left side? looks off a bit, but it might just be an optical illusion







looks good either way.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My rig as she sits now,i remember being afraid to water cool my pc until i came across this thread and the helpful members....


Class act JR
Nice work








Looks great - neat & tidy - with space well utilized


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great!
> 
> *is it me or is your pump slightly raised up on the left side?* looks off a bit, but it might just be an optical illusion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks good either way.


I see it too. Might just be the angle of the picture. Regardless, still looks incredible. Excellent use of the space he was given


----------



## LunaP

Ugh...that awkward moment when the tiny screw you're putting into one of your drive bays falls from the screw driver and without looking down you hear it fall into your already mounted RADw/ fans....










Time to use paper towels prior and flip this beach upside down.


----------



## morencyam

Magnetic screw drivers are your friend


----------



## kpoeticg

@Jamaican Reaper Great Work. That looks fantastic!!

As far as BNEG, i think i remember he said he was going up to get his reservoir fabbed today.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ugh...that awkward moment when the tiny screw you're putting into one of your drive bays falls from the screw driver and without looking down you hear it fall into your already mounted RADw/ fans....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to use paper towels prior and flip this beach upside down.


im pretty sure my 900D had 3-4 screws stuck in the rads because of that


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ugh...that awkward moment when the tiny screw you're putting into one of your drive bays falls from the screw driver and without looking down you hear it fall into your already mounted RADw/ fans....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to use paper towels prior and flip this beach upside down.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Does look slightly tilted to me too. One of the minor aggravations of my rig as well. Couldn't get the res perfectly straight up and down in the mounts because of the power cable for the Bluray drive sticking out...


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Thx guys,just checked my pump and i can say its just the camera angle....







I'm happy to be a member of this forum/thread,if its wasn't for you guys i wouldn't have had the balls to try water cooling....Just wanted to say thanks again for the help,for when i was a total newb with my constant questions....


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im pretty sure my 900D had 3-4 screws stuck in the rads because of that


LMAO..GG


----------



## pc-illiterate

try dropping your allen wrench through the fan on the very last screw on a 360 rad.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> My rig as she sits now,i remember being afraid to water cool my pc until i came across this thread and the helpful members....


Well done


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> try dropping your allen wrench through the fan on the very last screw on a 360 rad.


I'll raise you 120 and add a 2nd allen wrench in push pull w/ ap-15's and those lil screws for the UT-60's









Tellin you this stuff's like recon training LOL determination w/o breaking down and quitting !


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll raise you 120 and add a 2nd allen wrench in push pull w/ ap-15's and those lil screws for the UT-60's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tellin you this stuff's like recon training LOL determination w/o breaking down and quitting !


LOLwut


----------



## wermad

Helps if you have a set of screw drivers w/ a magnetic tip. Though some screws are not attracted and or just fall off. It has saved me the trouble of breaking down things to remove one small itty bitty screw.

I also keep a rag cloth spread below to catch the screw. I hate when the screw bounces off on to the floor and its freaking lost


----------



## Inviso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll raise you 120 and add a 2nd allen wrench in push pull w/ ap-15's and those lil screws for the UT-60's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tellin you this stuff's like recon training LOL determination w/o breaking down and quitting !


What kind of recon training?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I also keep a rag cloth spread below to catch the screw. I hate when the screw bounces off on to the floor and its freaking lost


make like tonto and put your head to the floor. if you have your eyes at floor level, that lil screw looks like a mountain. i have drop 50% of my screws at least 3 times each. thats 50% of the screws from a complete teardown including the case after de-riviting. it helps if you use a flashlight too.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> make like tonto and put your head to the floor. if you have your eyes at floor level, that lil screw looks like a mountain. i have drop 50% of my screws at least 3 times each. thats 50% of the screws from a complete teardown including the case after de-riviting. it helps if you use a flashlight too.


I got so much crap on the floor since I need the desk space as I work on my rig









Eventually, when my better-half is nice enough to clean my mess, she finds em


----------



## pc-illiterate

i use the dining room table so it has to be done RIGHT NOW! also she cant get mad because i spend 5-10 hours playing with my pc cause it has to be done right now.

mine doesnt clean up after me. instead she bought me 2 of those pumps plus the res and top








guess i didnt have to spend all that money after all wermad. i need to marry her...


----------



## Ovrclck

Quick question. My OCD is flaring up and need an opinion. Do you guys think this bend coming from the EK terminal would cause any adverse effects to the video card?
















Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got so much crap on the floor since I need the desk space as I work on my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually, when my better-half is nice enough to clean my mess, she finds em


Nobody likes a bragger


----------



## wermad

Top one looks clean and purrtty. Bottom one on the terminal looks a tad too long. Shorten the tube a bit to relax the bend and the strain the fitting (terminal side).

Looks great btw


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Top one looks clean and purrtty. Bottom one on the terminal looks a tad too long. Shorten the tube a bit to relax the bend and the strain the fitting (terminal side).
> 
> Looks great btw


awesome! Thanks man!

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## nismoskyline

does anyone know where to get a good copper cold plate? frozen cpu doesn't carry anymore last time i checked







i need something that is about 70mmx70mm and ~3-4mm in thickness if that helps


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Top one looks clean and purrtty. Bottom one on the terminal looks a tad too long. Shorten the tube a bit to relax the bend and the strain the fitting (terminal side).
> 
> Looks great btw


this is as short as I can get without putting too much pressure on the power cables. Looks better, thanks again for the quick reply.
















Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> does anyone know where to get a good copper cold plate? frozen cpu doesn't carry anymore last time i checked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i need something that is about 70mmx70mm and ~3-4mm in thickness if that helps


FCPU has small ones for GPU's. That's all that i know about. PPC search function doesn't work so good

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=ZijUHTDy&searchspec=shim&go.x=0&go.y=0


----------



## pc-illiterate

takea hair dryer to the gpu wires. get them hot n soft then bend em so they dont take up the space you need. keep them bent while they cool down so they dont lose some of the hairpin bend you put in them.

hair dryer, hairpin. ocn water cooling and hair salon.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> takea hair dryer to the gpu wires. get them hot n soft then bend em so they dont take up the space you need. keep them bent while they cool down so they dont lose some of the hairpin bend you put in them.
> 
> hair dryer, hairpin. ocn water cooling and hair salon.


whoa, great idea. Never thought of that. I'll give that a try. Thank you

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got so much crap on the floor since I need the desk space as I work on my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually, when my better-half is nice enough to clean my mess, she finds em


Sounds exactly like me lol


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> takea hair dryer to the gpu wires. get them hot n soft then bend em so they dont take up the space you need. keep them bent while they cool down so they dont lose some of the hairpin bend you put in them.
> 
> hair dryer, hairpin. ocn water cooling and hair salon.


So you can look great just like your rig!

Yeah I am a serial screw dropper. Not particularly good with my hands frankly for this type of hobby lol. My 120 AC rad only has three screws right now cause I still can't find the fourth (the floor swallowed it I swear). Every time I look at it I get mad.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Test fit the new reservoir , soo excited it's finally coming together


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Nobody likes a bragger
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sounds exactly like me lol
Click to expand...

Lol, its funny as I hate when she cleans my desk. She's a compulsive cleaner and neat-freak. She hates the tornado aftermath look of my desk during build time. I eventually get around to do it myself since I hate having things rearranged by someone else. I guess I know where things are among the chaos of my desk and only have myself to blame if I can't find them. IF she cleans and I can't find something, time to put on the gloves. And as usual, I loose






















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> awesome! Thanks man!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> this is as short as I can get without putting too much pressure on the power cables. Looks better, thanks again for the quick reply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Looks very clean. Awesome









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Test fit the new reservoir , soo excited it's finally coming together


Lol, my 11-m/o son leaped onto the monitor when he saw the duckie







. He's got a few of them for bath time







.

Btw, "naughty duckie" should be your build's name


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, its funny as I hate when she cleans my desk. She's a compulsive cleaner and neat-freak. She hates the tornado aftermath look of my desk during build time. I eventually get around to do it myself since I hate having things rearranged by someone else. I guess I know where things are among the chaos of my desk and only have myself to blame if I can't find them. IF she cleans and I can't find something, time to put on the gloves. And as usual, I loose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, sounds about right


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Has anyone here used this "Feser Base Corrosion Blocker" with distilled water?

I'm searching for an anti corrosive additive for use with distilled water. Here's a link to the product.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html?tl=g30c103s186

Thanks in Advance


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah, sounds about right


Lol,

A few more pics and I cleaned up the bridge a bit to get rid of those smudges:


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Has anyone here used this "Feser Base Corrosion Blocker" with distilled water?
> 
> I'm searching for an anti corrosive additive for use with distilled water. Here's a link to the product.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html?tl=g30c103s186
> 
> Thanks in Advance


Aren't you using EK Nickel Blocks?? Just curious, because EK at one point was saying to NOT use distilled in there systems, only premix or concentrate style coolants.......


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Aren't you using EK Nickel Blocks?? Just curious, because EK at one point was saying to NOT use distilled in there systems, only premix or concentrate style coolants.......


Yep, I'm using a nickel cpu block. So just skip distilled and go with premixed coolant with additives?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yep, I'm using a nickel cpu block. So just skip distilled and go with premixed coolant with additives?


That's what they (EK) said, I've been using the mayhems X1 and the Pastel for a couple of years and never had any issues with corrosion or blocks losing the nickel. I use the concentrate and mix with Distilled as per the bottles instructions....... And I don't put in anything else additives wise. The mayhems already has all it needs!


----------



## iBored

The mayhems pastel white has additives in it already? So I don't need something like a silver coil?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's what they (EK) said, I've been using the mayhems X1 and the Pastel for a couple of years and never had any issues with corrosion or blocks losing the nickel. I use the concentrate and mix with Distilled as per the bottles instructions....... And I don't put in anything else additives wise. The mayhems already has all it needs!


If thats the case, I might go with a white mix. Time to research mayhems white fluids lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> The mayhems pastel white has additives in it already? So I don't need something like a silver coil?


Exactly. You should NEVER add any additional additives or use a silver coil with Pastel/X1/Aurora as it can cause bad things in your loop. They have everything you need already in them.

It is pretty much a care free maintenance free solution that performs very close to pure water, and looks pretty sweet







. You just mix the concentrate with pure water and fill your loop. Pastel can last up to 3 years without needing changing


----------



## Maximus Knight

Anyone tried to wrap their rads with this surface?










Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> @Jamaican Reaper
> Great Work. That looks fantastic!!
> 
> As far as BNEG, i think i remember he said he was going up to get his reservoir fabbed today.


Sat Im doing that....

As for the last 100 posts...*sigh*

Please,if you require specific help then make a thread,as much as I like this little corner of OCN being proactive with new members and new watercoolers,this is more about theory and new part discussion with loads of pics. Not a Watercoolers Helpline for basic problems.









Ricky,check your baseplate and see if the sticker is still in place,remount and give it loads of pressure. And make a thread or build log and link it here rather than spamming this thread.

Thanks.

Now im off to work......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> make like tonto and put your head to the floor. if you have your eyes at floor level, that lil screw looks like a mountain. i have drop 50% of my screws at least 3 times each. thats 50% of the screws from a complete teardown including the case after de-riviting. it helps if you use a flashlight too.
> 
> 
> 
> I got so much crap on the floor since I need the desk space as I work on my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually, when my better-half is nice enough to clean my mess, she finds em
Click to expand...

I find all the screws i drop by walking on the carpet with no shoes on,guarantee I step on them.......


----------



## kpoeticg

I figured you were either getting your res fabbed or beating your monitor with your keyboard out of sheer frustration









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Anyone tried to wrap their rads with this surface?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


Are you talking about that tissue paper (if that's what that is)?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured you were either getting your res fabbed or beating your monitor with your keyboard out of sheer frustration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Anyone tried to wrap their rads with this surface?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG Optimus Prime
> 
> 
> 
> Are you talking about that tissue paper (if that's what that is)?
Click to expand...

Wot, lol no I meant like vinyl :X and that's an old t-shirt









Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Anyone tried to wrap their rads with this surface?


To get the stamping to show,i used a heatgun and a paint brush to mold the sheet.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> To get the stamping to show,i used a heatgun and a paint brush to mold the sheet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noice! Gotcha! Thx!


----------



## X-oiL

Where do you guys suggest me to put my new build log, in the Watercooling section or Intel build log section? It will be a combination of both


----------



## kpoeticg

HAHAHAHA

"Wrap their rads with this surface" had me looking all over that pic for the "surface" you wanted to wrap it with









I thought u were wanting to use tissue paper as a filter or something LOL

Great tip BNEG, cuz i'm gonna be doing that to my rads soon too









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Where do you guys suggest me to put my new build log, in the Watercooling section or Intel build log section? It will be a combination of both


If you're gonna do any kind of modding, i'd suggest the case mods section. It seems to get more views.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you're gonna do any kind of modding, i'd suggest the case mods section. It seems to get more views.


Nope no planned modding, "just" some custom made cables and sleeving for now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quoted twice and not one was spoilered....


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quoted twice and not one was spoilered....


Soz! Edited.

Edit: didnt realize there were 2 images


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> HAHAHAHA
> 
> "Wrap their rads with this surface" had me looking all over that pic for the "surface" you wanted to wrap it with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought u were wanting to use tissue paper as a filter or something LOL


Harharhar. Tissue is too thin. Napkins men.

Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> To get the stamping to show,i used a heatgun and a paint brush to mold the sheet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That turned out amazingly good!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Anyone live in Chicago (in the city) and have a stock D5 housing/"screw ring" they don't need? The ugly round plastic piece that looks like a cog or gear. Need one to use this XSPC D5 bay res.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Anyone live in Chicago (in the city) and have a stock D5 housing/"screw ring" they don't need? The ugly round plastic piece that looks like a cog or gear. Need one to use this XSPC D5 bay res.


I'll double check but I think I just threw my old one away


----------



## jokrik

As promised, some water cooling pron on my 290's

http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...nk/3-1-2014/MoneyShotGPU_zpseafabe65.jpg.html


----------



## morencyam

Man, AC really knows how to design some nice looking blocks.
How does that active backplate work? I saw the pics earliet of just the backplate and saw it had fitting ports on it. Does it attach to the ports on the block itself similar to how an EK bridge terminal attaches to the block?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Man, AC really knows how to design some nice looking blocks.
> How does that active backplate work? I saw the pics earliet of just the backplate and saw it had fitting ports on it. Does it attach to the ports on the block itself similar to how an EK bridge terminal attaches to the block?


Id like to know how that works too..doesnt look like a heatsink to me :O


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'll double check but I think I just threw my old one away












Thanks.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Id like to know how that works too..doesnt look like a heatsink to me :O


The backplate consist of two parts
one is the backplate itself, and two is the terminal which has build in heat sink pipe
so you attach the backplate first and on the backplate there is a slot for the pipe
you put TIM on the pipe slot and rest the pipe there



There are a few more pictures on my log


----------



## fast_fate

Any clues as to how the active backplate heatpipe seals where it enters the port area ??


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> As promised, some water cooling pron on my 290's
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...nk/3-1-2014/MoneyShotGPU_zpseafabe65.jpg.html


Got a friend who just had to show me his 290X. Fired it up and started playing BF4 and he hit 90C on it in no time & I could not believe how loud it was. Never have I heard anything from a computer sound anything close to that. You could hear that thing in the kitchen on the other side of the house.

Now that I've seen those blocks with those backplates now I know what all the racket was about. That thing was in serious pain, and that's the cure it was screaming for.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Any clues as to how the active backplate heatpipe seals where it enters the port area ??


Didn't check it thoroughly but its pretty secure and rotate-able
the block is on the other side of the house and its midnight here


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Any clues as to how the active backplate heatpipe seals where it enters the port area ??
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't check it thoroughly but its pretty secure and rotate-able
> the block is on the other side of the house and its midnight here
Click to expand...

The Titan versions leaked,keep an eye on that plate.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Id like to know how that works too..doesnt look like a heatsink to me :O


The whole backplate is the heatsink, touching the rear mounted RAMs. The little heatpipe is connected to the waterblock, and moves heat from the plate into the water flow. This solution also somehow makes the VRM temperatures much lower. Stren tested a 15C reduction in VRM temps with this block.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Didn't check it thoroughly but its pretty secure and rotate-able
> the block is on the other side of the house and its midnight here


Cheers - they do looky pretty sexy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Titan versions leaked,keep an eye on that plate.


That's a PROBLEM isn't it


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The whole backplate is the heatsink, touching the rear mounted RAMs. The little heatpipe is connected to the waterblock, and moves heat from the plate into the water flow. *This solution also somehow makes the VRM temperatures much lower. Stren tested a 15C reduction in VRM temps with this block.*


do you have a link to that review?

found it









http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/01/r9-290x-gpu-block-performance-summary/

I wonder though as to where the temperature drop is due to the active backplate, or just because of having a backplate on there in the first place (ensuring better contact due to the pressure from the backplate itself)

Would be cool if someone could test the card with at first the heatpipe disconnected, record the VRM temps after some warmup time and only then connect the heatpipe and look at what the temps do then


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The whole backplate is the heatsink, touching the rear mounted RAMs. The little heatpipe is connected to the waterblock, and moves heat from the plate into the water flow. This solution also somehow makes the VRM temperatures much lower. Stren tested a 15C reduction in VRM temps with this block.


OH, the whole plate..ahh got it..got to say it doesnt look that obvious tho teehee..


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Cheers - they do looky pretty sexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a PROBLEM isn't it


I'm gonna grab them and sleep with them tonight








just hoping it wont leak ...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Would be cool if someone could test the card with at first the heatpipe disconnected, record the VRM temps after some warmup time and only then connect the heatpipe and look at what the temps do then


You could suggest it to Stren









I'm assuming the backplate is good to collect a lot of heat, from conduction and from radiation, but it's the heatpipe that allows that heat to be moved away efficiently. Otherwise it would just be moved by convection and a flat plate is not ideal for this.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You could suggest it to Stren
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the backplate is good to collect a lot of heat, from conduction and from radiation, but it's the heatpipe that allows that heat to be moved away efficiently. Otherwise it would just be moved by convection and a flat plate is not ideal for this.


This is what I found when testing my card on air
the heat radiation of the card really does my whole motherboard hot to touch especially around the pci-e where the card goes
yeah the motherboard is manufactured to endure such heat, but I guess I love my board a little to much


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quick configuration question:
Here is my loop as it sits now (GS3, not a glamour shot lol)


I'm currently just cooling the CPU and I5-3570K but would like to cool the GPU as well (650ti boost). Both are heavily OC'ed. Top rad is a Black Ice II crossflow, its pretty thin. Fans are AP-15s in pull as intake. Temps are decent now, in the 50s depending on ambient while folding. Now as I want to cool the GPU I am obviously going to need more rad space, seems simple enough, just throw a 240mm in the front. While I am planning to mod the case slightly so I can fit a 5.25 fan controller internally and vertical. So basically the 240 is a no go, I only have room for a 120.

So with the 240mm in the top and a 120mm up front will I be able to adequately cool my hardware? Also if I am which would be the better choice, XSPC RS120 or AC ST30?
Thanks!


----------



## morencyam

Evil, with as much space as you have in the front, would something thicker, like a UT60 or even a Monsta work? Personally, if you were to get a 120 rad for the front, I'd go with a UT60 with push-pull. That would probably give you the best performance.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You could suggest it to Stren
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the backplate is good to collect a lot of heat, from conduction and from radiation, but it's the heatpipe that allows that heat to be moved away efficiently. Otherwise it would just be moved by convection and a flat plate is not ideal for this.


Commented at his review and he'll be looking into it, great tip haha


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Quick configuration question:
> Here is my loop as it sits now (GS3, not a glamour shot lol)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently just cooling the CPU and I5-3570K but would like to cool the GPU as well (650ti boost). Both are heavily OC'ed. Top rad is a Black Ice II crossflow, its pretty thin. Fans are AP-15s in pull as intake. Temps are decent now, in the 50s depending on ambient while folding. Now as I want to cool the GPU I am obviously going to need more rad space, seems simple enough, just throw a 240mm in the front. While I am planning to mod the case slightly so I can fit a 5.25 fan controller internally and vertical. So basically the 240 is a no go, I only have room for a 120.
> 
> So with the 240mm in the top and a 120mm up front will I be able to adequately cool my hardware? Also if I am which would be the better choice, XSPC RS120 or AC ST30?
> Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Evil, with as much space as you have in the front, would something thicker, like a UT60 or even a Monsta work? Personally, if you were to get a 120 rad for the front, I'd go with a UT60 with push-pull. That would probably give you the best performance.


I think that's an Arc Midi R2 right? If it is, you _might_ be able to fit a slim 240mm up front. I just measured and from my fan casing to those HDD cages I get about an inch and a 16th, or 27mm. So it's pretty tight. But here is what I'm doing with mine, I have the 240mm at the top of course, and then I'm sticking 120mm rads anywhere I can. In fact my last 120mm rad should arrive today and I will put it in the bottom as intake..

The 120mm I have up front is a Watercool HTF2, it's pretty thick. I got it cheap and thought it looked cool but I might ditch it for something else. Like an XT45 or UT60 like morencyam mentioned. But as you can see I used the top of my HDD cage to mount my pump/res, and I didn't screw it down, I used 20lb. double sided tape.

Also do you have a Koolance 360 as well? I feel like we're watercooling brothers with the same case and block, lol.

EDIT: I realized I never answered your question. Before I installed that 120mm radiator up front (so I had just the Swiftech 240mm up top and the EK 120mm on the back) The temps on my 3570K @ 4.7GHz and overclocked R9-290 were completely in check. I think you will have plenty of cooling if you get a slim 120mm radiator for up front. I would choose the AC ST30, but a XT45 would be nice too.

In fact now that I think about it, my temps didn't really go down when I added the Watercool HTF2 up front. So I'm going to wait and see if I have any changes when I add another radiator, and since I use these QDCs for easy draining I will test without the HTF2 as well.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Thanks guys!

I'll look into the UT60 and break out the ruler lol, push pull will be not problem on either.

Yes it is an Arc Midi R2, and I could fit a thick 240 in the front if it wasn't for my fan controller mod. I got a 5.25 in fan controller (en route - bitfenix recon) and I am going to postioin it vertically between the hard drive cage and the front of the case, thereby taking up all the space that the bottom of a 240mm would have. Maybe I can fit another thin 120mm in the back from the looks of your pic.
Koolance 370i







a whole $30 off the market place.


----------



## stickg1

Oh yeah, I had a question too. I can't really find any direct comparisons between the Koolance CPU-360 and Koolance CPU-380. I know the 380 got glowing reviews, do you think it would be worth upgrading to the 380? I found a guy on the Koolance forum that said he did, and his temps were "better", but he couldn't have been any less specific.

So the 380 is $75, I can probably get $40-$50 out of my 360, you think it's worth the $25-$35? The 380 looks a little more sharp too, and I like the black inset, I think it will look better in my rig.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Didn't check it thoroughly but its pretty secure and rotate-able
> the block is on the other side of the house and its midnight here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers - they do looky pretty sexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Titan versions leaked,keep an eye on that plate.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's a PROBLEM isn't it
Click to expand...

It was only a handful of the Titan plates that leaked but it killed the card each time from what im aware of,not saying these will leak but the design is very similar.
I would keep an eye on it myself.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It was only a handful of the Titan plates that leaked but it killed the card each time from what im aware of,not saying these will leak but the design is very similar.
> I would keep an eye on it myself.


I wonder how it can leak on the card since it either will drop down from the connection terminal or follow the heatpipe only to then drop down, all out of reach of the cards..
Or it would have to squirt out like crazy, but that isn't so likely if you ask me..

Have you heard about whether or not AquaComputer covered the losses for the few failed cards? I read a while back that you informed about that, haven't seen anything pass about it since though


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It was only a handful of the Titan plates that leaked but it killed the card each time from what im aware of,not saying these will leak but the design is very similar.
> I would keep an eye on it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder how it can leak on the card since it either will drop down from the connection terminal or follow the heatpipe only to then drop down, all out of reach of the cards..
> Or it would have to squirt out like crazy, but that isn't so likely if you ask me..
> 
> *Have you heard about whether or not AquaComputer covered the losses for the few failed cards?* I read a while back that you informed about that, haven't seen anything pass about it since though
Click to expand...

I have not sadly,the OP posted in this thread has not updated what happened. I know Sven was on it tho,I can only assume it had a positive outcome.
It was definitely drip damage tho,not squirting.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Sorry man, it has been trashed. I have a D5 coming in next week, but unfortunately it is the single version that does not have the casing on there


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Anyone live in Chicago (in the city) and have a stock D5 housing/"screw ring" they don't need? The ugly round plastic piece that looks like a cog or gear. Need one to use this XSPC D5 bay res.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sorry man, it has been trashed. I have a D5 coming in next week, but unfortunately it is the single version that does not have the casing on there


aluminum ring - $18 (wow)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_769&products_id=39609
all new plastic ring + original pump top + mount plate - $2
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_775&products_id=25086


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Quick configuration question:
> Here is my loop as it sits now (GS3, not a glamour shot lol)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently just cooling the CPU and I5-3570K but would like to cool the GPU as well (650ti boost). Both are heavily OC'ed. Top rad is a Black Ice II crossflow, its pretty thin. Fans are AP-15s in pull as intake. Temps are decent now, in the 50s depending on ambient while folding. Now as I want to cool the GPU I am obviously going to need more rad space, seems simple enough, just throw a 240mm in the front. While I am planning to mod the case slightly so I can fit a 5.25 fan controller internally and vertical. So basically the 240 is a no go, I only have room for a 120.
> 
> So with the 240mm in the top and a 120mm up front will I be able to adequately cool my hardware? Also if I am which would be the better choice, XSPC RS120 or AC ST30?
> Thanks!


While on the thinner side, you probably would be 'ok'. I'd put in a thicker rad for the 240 and also a thick 140 in the front. You can squeeze in another 120 in the rear if you use a slim fan or external fan, which would give you a little help.




I am not using the HDD cages in mine and modded in a second 240 in the back panel, but wanted to give you a reference for the 240 in the top with the 120 in rear. The top is a 45mm thick and back is a slim rad w/ a slim Slip stream fan.

EDIT: Just realized the pics don't show it well, I will try to take another one later and post it


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> While on the thinner side, you probably would be 'ok'. I'd put in a thicker rad for the 240 and also a thick 140 in the front. You can squeeze in another 120 in the rear if you use a slim fan or external fan, which would give you a little help.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not using the HDD cages in mine and modded in a second 240 in the back panel, but wanted to give you a reference for the 240 in the top with the 120 in rear. The top is a 45mm thick and back is a slim rad w/ a slim Slip stream fan.


Okay thank you! I'd get a thicker top Rad, but I really like x-flow and I can't seem to find thick X-Flow rads. It looks like the best option at this point is maybe a XT45 or UT60 in front and then a ST30 in the rear with a slim fan in the rear. I would like to stay 120 for the front due to fan selection though.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It was only a handful of the Titan plates that leaked but it killed the card each time from what im aware of,not saying these will leak but the design is very similar.
> I would keep an eye on it myself.


I would be included in that handful.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh yeah, I had a question too. I can't really find any direct comparisons between the Koolance CPU-360 and Koolance CPU-380. I know the 380 got glowing reviews, do you think it would be worth upgrading to the 380? I found a guy on the Koolance forum that said he did, and his temps were "better", but he couldn't have been any less specific.
> 
> So the 380 is $75, I can probably get $40-$50 out of my 360, you think it's worth the $25-$35? The 380 looks a little more sharp too, and I like the black inset, I think it will look better in my rig.


What are your temps presently?


----------



## dade_kash_xD

So, here is a random question. I have an XSPC Photon 170 w/ D5 pump in my new watercooling system. I can feel the water jetting through the outlet tube, but don't see any water moving in the actual reservoir at all. Problem is, I have red tubing so I can't really see if the water is moving through the system or what. I have the pump set at 5. Is there a possibility the water isn't circulating properly? Could it be that the radiators are too full of water to circulate properly?


----------



## pc-illiterate

the rads are supposed to be full of water with no air.
you wont see water flowing through your loop.
you want calm water in your res.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> So, here is a random question. I have an XSPC Photon 170 w/ D5 pump in my new watercooling system. I can feel the water jetting through the outlet tube, but don't see any water moving in the actual reservoir at all. Problem is, I have red tubing so I can't really see if the water is moving through the system or what. I have the pump set at 5. Is there a possibility the water isn't circulating properly? Could it be that the radiators are too full of water to circulate properly?


I think the only way you can see water move is by seeing the air bubbles move - which there should be any...
If temps are good you'll be fine.


----------



## dade_kash_xD

Thanks guys for the quick responses. I was just curious because I added Primochill Utopia Intensifier Red Dye yesterday, but noticed that the reservoir was staying the same color the entire time. My temps are great, so long as I have my a/c running. Only thing that really pushes my temps high is mining for cryptocurrencies. If I have my a/c on, I never pass 54c when mining, when my a/c is off, I hit 64c on my r9-290's.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I would be included in that handful.


So what happened and what was the outcome???


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> Thanks guys for the quick responses. I was just curious because I added Primochill Utopia Intensifier Red Dye yesterday, but noticed that the reservoir was staying the same color the entire time. My temps are great, so long as I have my a/c running. Only thing that really pushes my temps high is mining for cryptocurrencies. If I have my a/c on, I never pass 54c when mining, when my a/c is off, I hit 64c on my r9-290's.


im lost on this. you added the dye to the res? if you did, theres no problem as the dye spreads throughout the water and wouldnt just get pulled into the pump by itself. if you didnt add the dye to the res, where did you put it?


----------



## dade_kash_xD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im lost on this. you added the dye to the res? if you did, theres no problem as the dye spreads throughout the water and wouldnt just get pulled into the pump by itself. if you didnt add the dye to the res, where did you put it?


Sorry if that post was confusing. I added the dye through the top of the fillport on the photon reservoir. What I'm saying is, the water changed color but remained a really dark red with only a few drops, as if it wasn't mixing with all the rest of the water in the system.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If its pumping through the system you can rest assured it WILL mix with the rest of the water.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So what happened and what was the outcome???


It leaked from the heatpipe terminal and my Titan died, i passed that on to the retailer who let Aquacomputer know.

Aquacomputer said it was only a few blocks that had this problem but even so, i can't bring myself to buy Aquacomputer stuff again.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> Sorry if that post was confusing. I added the dye through the top of the fillport on the photon reservoir. What I'm saying is, the water changed color but remained a really dark red with only a few drops, as if it wasn't mixing with all the rest of the water in the system.


Just remember, since the reservoir is a larger inside diameter than the tubing, there is more coolant to look through, so it will seem darker in the res than it does in the tubes with a translucent coolant, the only coolant I know that looks uniform in tubes and res is the Mayhems Pastel, since it's opaque and you can't see through it.


----------



## dade_kash_xD

I just put it in last night before I went to bed. I left the pump on full throttle all day today, so I will check it when I get home from work. Anyone have any experience with primochill intensifier dye? I've read most dyes leave gunk and build up on the blocks. Just curious if anyone has had any experience with primochills transparent intensifier dyes.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Aren't you using EK Nickel Blocks?? Just curious, because EK at one point was saying to NOT use distilled in there systems, only premix or concentrate style coolants.......


Please dont discourage people from using distilled water in their loop. EK has never said not to use distilled with their nickel blocks. The percentage of people having plating issues is miniscule especially after adding the EN line. A statement like the one you have made really deserves back-up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I find all the screws i drop by walking on the carpet with no shoes on,guarantee I step on them.......


Yup, been there, not pleasant in the morning when you've waken up and get this surprise







.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What are your temps presently?


Warmer than I would like. I thought I might have put on too much MX4 the first time so I went with a much smaller dot last time I changed the tubing and fittings around. Same results. The CPU stays near 68C folding 24/7 with all my SP120's on the voltage step-down that came with them.



That's part of the reason I think I would want to update my CPU block. My temps on the CPU are not much different than when I was using a Prolimatech Panther with push/pull SP120's on it. That doesn't seem right to me. I never delidded this chip, I've delidded a handful of Ivy's in the past, and this is by far the best chip I've had in terms of overclockability and voltage needs. I don't really want to delid it either, rather just keep it stock and counteract the heat with superior cooling. But IDK if it's this block that's lacking in performance or if any block is going to have trouble taming a stock Ivy at 4.7GHz.


----------



## dade_kash_xD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Please dont discourage people from using distilled water in their loop. EK has never said not to use distilled with their nickel blocks. The percentage of people having plating issues is miniscule especially after adding the EN line. A statement like the one you have made really deserves back-up.


In the instructions manual for the r9-290 nickel blocks, ek says to use either ek premix or distilled water.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> In the instructions manual for the r9-290 nickel blocks, ek says to use either ek premix or distilled water.


Thank you


----------



## stickg1

EK recommends you use EK coolant, with EK fittings, with EK blocks, and EK tubing. They are running a business, I wouldn't expect anything less.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> In the instructions manual for the r9-290 nickel blocks, ek says to use either ek premix or *distilled wate*r.


Glad to know, thanks.


----------



## williamHL

My system












Can i change something?
Thanks!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> It leaked from the heatpipe terminal and my Titan died, i passed that on to the retailer who let Aquacomputer know.
> 
> Aquacomputer said it was only a few blocks that had this problem but even so, i can't bring myself to buy Aquacomputer stuff again.


Since they acknowledged the problem, did they cover your lost titan?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Please dont discourage people from using distilled water in their loop. EK has never said not to use distilled with their nickel blocks. The percentage of people having plating issues is miniscule especially after adding the EN line. *A statement like the one you have made really deserves back-up*.


Ok, here you go.

News
EK Staining test on Nickel Plated surfaces - 14/05/2012

Last year EK received a few reports of excessive staining in EK products and also some reports of corrosion.
EK lab therefore undertook laboratory testing to investigate these occurrences and the results both confirmed the reports and demonstrated how the staining and corrosion could be avoided. The tests showed that only coolants with anti-corrosive additive keep water blocks clean, corrosion free and easy to maintain in the long run. *Using other coolants, such as distilled water, with or without algicide, will result in staining, pitting and ultimately corrosion of the blocks.* The report includes pictures of all the test results, clearly illustrating the significant benefits of using an anti-corrosion additive.

How does it come to that?
1. *Distilled water is great coolant at first, but quickly becomes increasingly polluted, inevitably resulting in staining.*
2. In the loop there are different metals with different electrode potentials. Galvanic corrosion (called dissimilar metal corrosion) is the process by which metals in contact with each other oxidize or corrode. There are three conditions that must exist for galvanic corrosion to occur.
a. First there must be two electrochemically dissimilar metals present.
b. Second, there must be an electrically conductive path between the two metals.
c. And third, there must be a conductive path for the metal ions to move from the more anodic metal to the more cathodic metal. (*Distilled water becomes proportionally very conductive over time, compared to initial values and features.)*
If any one of these three conditions does not exist, galvanic corrosion will not occur.

Please, find full report at this link.

*We would like to appeal to all users which want to have long lasting pride and joy in their projects to start using quality coolants with anti-corrosion additive.* Several coolants performed well in the tests, and are recommended. You can see the test results for the coolants in this report.

Edit: the links didn't copy over, sorry. Just search the forum for EK Nickel Warning.


----------



## dade_kash_xD

You know, I thought I did an amazing job with my first water cooling system, until I started viewing all the different pictures and setups in this threads. Man, you guys do some amazing stuff!


----------



## subsven

This build has been a work in progress for a bit, I tend to slowly upgrade and reuse as much as possible (hence the 120 and 240 rad in the roof, as opposed to just one 480







) There is an RX480 in the floor though.



BUT, on the plus side, I have two of these babies just waiting to get wet:



Soo, while I wait for all of this to arrive (UPS says out for delivery, order was placed the Thursday _before_ Christmas...



I'll just have to keep myself occupied cleaning these babies up in the mean time. (Thank god it also snowed a lot last night and I didn't have to work today.







)



Oooh, soo shiny. :-D



More to come once it all gets settled in.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Please dont discourage people from using distilled water in their loop. EK has never said not to use distilled with their nickel blocks. The percentage of people having plating issues is miniscule especially after adding the EN line. A statement like the one you have made really deserves back-up.


_Devil's advocate..._

Tiborrr said it yesterday...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> all the guides I read say to use colored tubing and use distilled water, but I think it would be nice to see colored liquid in the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, you should use the enclosed eKoolant concentrate just like the manual says. Nevermind the 'guides'. One should not take something written on the forums for granted, especially when it's in the clear contrast with manufacturers recommendation.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> In the instructions manual for the r9-290 nickel blocks, ek says to use either ek premix or distilled water.


No, it says "The use of corrosion inhibiting coolants is always recommended for any liquid cooling system." There's no mention of distilled, nor specifically of EKoolant
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868553.pdf

_/Devil's advocate..._


----------



## dade_kash_xD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Ok, here you go.
> 
> News
> EK Staining test on Nickel Plated surfaces - 14/05/2012
> 
> Last year EK received a few reports of excessive staining in EK products and also some reports of corrosion.
> EK lab therefore undertook laboratory testing to investigate these occurrences and the results both confirmed the reports and demonstrated how the staining and corrosion could be avoided. The tests showed that only coolants with anti-corrosive additive keep water blocks clean, corrosion free and easy to maintain in the long run. *Using other coolants, such as distilled water, with or without algicide, will result in staining, pitting and ultimately corrosion of the blocks.* The report includes pictures of all the test results, clearly illustrating the significant benefits of using an anti-corrosion additive.
> 
> How does it come to that?
> 1. *Distilled water is great coolant at first, but quickly becomes increasingly polluted, inevitably resulting in staining.*
> 2. In the loop there are different metals with different electrode potentials. Galvanic corrosion (called dissimilar metal corrosion) is the process by which metals in contact with each other oxidize or corrode. There are three conditions that must exist for galvanic corrosion to occur.
> a. First there must be two electrochemically dissimilar metals present.
> b. Second, there must be an electrically conductive path between the two metals.
> c. And third, there must be a conductive path for the metal ions to move from the more anodic metal to the more cathodic metal. (*Distilled water becomes proportionally very conductive over time, compared to initial values and features.)*
> If any one of these three conditions does not exist, galvanic corrosion will not occur.
> 
> Please, find full report at this link.
> 
> *We would like to appeal to all users which want to have long lasting pride and joy in their projects to start using quality coolants with anti-corrosion additive.* Several coolants performed well in the tests, and are recommended. You can see the test results for the coolants in this report.
> 
> Edit: the links didn't copy over, sorry. Just search the forum for EK Nickel Warning.


The key in those statements is, distilled water without anti-corrosive additive. I am using Primochill Utopia solution with distilled water.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> _Devil's advocate..._
> 
> Tiborrr said it yesterday...
> 
> No, it says "The use of corrosion inhibiting coolants is always recommended for any liquid cooling system." There's no mention of distilled, nor specifically of EKoolant
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868553.pdf
> 
> _/Devil's advocate..._


Thanks Wisk.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamHL*
> 
> My system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can i change something?
> Thanks!


I'm personally not a fan of doing anything external.

Also, having 4 fans stacked on top of each other is weird to me........


----------



## dade_kash_xD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Thanks Wisk.


I will take a picture of the manual that I got with my blocks because I specifically remember it referring to "DI water". That's how I remember it, because they didn't fully say distilled, they used an abbreviation, DI.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'm personally not a fan of doing anything external.
> 
> Also, having 4 fans stacked on top of each other is weird to me........


I think he's using empty fan housings as a radbox/shroud/duct


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The Nickel debate has gone on forever,Ek of course will recommend EK coolants and ancillary products.

Distilled is perfectly fine for watercooling,its been used since year dot. I use DI myself with no anti corrosive but 4 drops of biocide....2 years running now with no ill effects to the plating on my Watercool and MIPS blocks.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He does this a lot.....


Yup. I try and help.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Nickel debate has gone on forever,Ek of course will recommend EK coolants and ancillary products.
> 
> Distilled is perfectly fine for watercooling,its been used since year dot. I use DI myself with no anti corrosive but 4 drops of biocide....2 years running now with no ill effects to the plating on my Watercool and MIPS blocks.


4 drops? Wow! Your loop must be huge. Curious as to what biocide you use. Im using Mayhem's Extreme stuff.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Nickel debate has gone on forever,Ek of course will recommend EK coolants and ancillary products.
> 
> Distilled is perfectly fine for watercooling,its been used since year dot. I use DI myself with no anti corrosive but 4 drops of biocide....2 years running now with no ill effects to the plating on my Watercool and MIPS blocks.


That's great, I'm glad you have had good experience with that.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Since they acknowledged the problem, did they cover your lost titan?


No, i managed to get another from the retailer.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Nickel debate has gone on forever,Ek of course will recommend EK coolants and ancillary products.
> 
> Distilled is perfectly fine for watercooling,its been used since year dot. I use DI myself with no anti corrosive but 4 drops of biocide....2 years running now with no ill effects to the plating on my Watercool and MIPS blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 4 drops? Wow! Your loop must be huge. Curious as to what biocide you use. Im using Mayhem's Extreme stuff.
Click to expand...

A free bottle of PH Nuke that Mayhems sent me when i used to test for him...had it a few years now.

My loop is around 1.5 ltrs when filled.


----------



## WonderMutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamHL*
> 
> My system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can i change something?
> Thanks!


Wow, that black tubing looks amazing! nicely done!!


----------



## Dzuks

My 3770K is delided and my temps are good, but I want to do something with my loop. I've been thinking about getting a 250ml res instead of the dual bay res, and also replacing the 140 rad with a thicker 120 rad in push only.
What do you guys think?
Any other suggestions are also welcomed.

Thanks


----------



## stickg1

Anyone used one of these new Koolance 54mm thick rads? They look nice.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_673&products_id=38581

I linked the 120mm x 1 because that's what I'm in the market for. It's between that, the UT60 or XT45. What do you guys/gals think?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone used one of these new Koolance 54mm thick rads? They look nice.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_673&products_id=38581
> 
> I linked the 120mm x 1 because that's what I'm in the market for. It's between that, the UT60 or XT45. What do you guys/gals think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It does look nice, but I personally prefer the alphacool rads for the options in ports. So I am biased.


----------



## szeged

id grab the ut60 also.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I guess I just currently have wood for anything Koolance.

Speaking of which, I still cant decide if I want to swap out my CPU-360 with a CPU-380. My CPU temps kinda suck but IDK if a better block will do it. I can't find any direct comparisons between the two blocks. I think because the 360 is so old.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone used one of these new Koolance 54mm thick rads? They look nice.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_673&products_id=38581
> 
> I linked the 120mm x 1 because that's what I'm in the market for. It's between that, the UT60 or XT45. What do you guys/gals think?


Its not for me...never been a fan of Koolance rads...

Looks surprisingly similar to the HWL GTS or GTX Lite rads.





Which i do like...shows how much a name influences me....


----------



## stickg1

I would benefit from the port options that the UT60 or XT45 provide. Would make it great for getting air into the loop for accelerated draining. So I guess I've made up my mind then.

The CPU-380 looks like the effing sex. I want one so bad but I will have to keep searching for actual numbers before I splash more cash.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I would benefit from the port options that the UT60 or XT45 provide. Would make it great for getting air into the loop for accelerated draining. So I guess I've made up my mind then.
> 
> The CPU-380 looks like the effing sex. I want one so bad but I will have to keep searching for actual numbers before I splash more cash.


Just a thought, I believe there have been reviews on the 370vs380, and there have been reviews on 360vs370, so could you not extrapolate an answer from that data? If, say the 370 beat the 360 by 3-4c, and the 380 beat the 370 by 1-2c then the 380 "should be" 4-6c better than the 360?? I've not actually looked, but that's what I would try and find.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> *I would benefit from the port options that the UT60 or XT45 provide. Would make it great for getting air into the loop for accelerated draining. So I guess I've made up my mind then.*
> 
> The CPU-380 looks like the effing sex. I want one so bad but I will have to keep searching for actual numbers before I splash more cash.


Sounds like you answered you own question








And personally, I would add more radiator space before changing CPU blocks.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just a thought, I believe there have been reviews on the 370vs380, and there have been reviews on 360vs370, so could you not extrapolate an answer from that data? If, say the 370 beat the 360 by 3-4c, and the 380 beat the 370 by 1-2c then the 380 "should be" 4-6c better than the 360?? I've not actually looked, but that's what I would try and find.


Heh, that's actually what I'm doing right now!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Sounds like you answered you own question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And personally, I would add more radiator space before changing CPU blocks.


Yeah but I just feel like the 480mm of total rad space I have for just an i5 and 290 is plenty. It's going to be 600mm of rad space here soon when I get my 120mm ST30 tomorrow.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Heh, that's actually what I'm doing right now!
> Yeah but I just feel like the 480mm of total rad space I have for just an i5 and 290 is plenty. It's going to be 600mm of rad space here soon when I get my 120mm *ST30* tomorrow.


You were asking about XT45 & UT60, and then ordered the ST30? The ST30 doesn't have the extra ports I was referring to.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not for me...never been a fan of Koolance rads...
> 
> Looks surprisingly similar to the HWL GTS or GTX Lite rads.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which i do like...shows how much a name influences me....


I've seen those and was curious too. Probably the same oem as they tend to use M4 screws.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now I had radiator thickness envy lol my lil swiftech. 120 is half that lol but I'm still awaiting my 240 to come in as well


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> You were asking about XT45 & UT60, and then ordered the ST30? The ST30 doesn't have the extra ports I was referring to.


Naw I picked up the ST30 off the marketplace last weekend. Should arrive tomorrow. I want a UT60/XT45 to replace my Watercool HTSF2 that I use up front. Once I got the HTSF2 in hand it didn't look as nice as it did in the pictures. It's an awkward size, much taller and wider than an actual 120mm fan and the brass ports are kind of weird looking and stick out like a sore thumb with all my shining silver fittings and black rads.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not for me...never been a fan of Koolance rads...
> 
> Looks surprisingly similar to the HWL GTS or GTX Lite rads.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which i do like...shows how much a name influences me....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen those and was curious too. Probably the same oem as they tend to use M4 screws.
Click to expand...

As Far as I know HWL are their own OEM


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The CPU-380 looks like the effing sex. I want one so bad but I will have to keep searching for actual numbers before I splash more cash.


a 370 outperforms a 380 on a 3770k by a whopping .2*C delta. basically no difference between 370 and 380.
send post:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup

can not find 360 vs 370 charts because they wont connect to skinnee labs, of course.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> 
> My 3770K is delided and my temps are good, but I want to do something with my loop. I've been thinking about getting a 250ml res instead of the dual bay res, and also replacing the 140 rad with a thicker 120 rad in push only.
> What do you guys think?
> Any other suggestions are also welcomed.
> 
> Thanks


No suggestions?! Nothing!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> a 370 outperforms a 380 on a 3770k by a whopping .2*C delta. basically no difference between 370 and 380.
> send post:
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
> 
> can not find 360 vs 370 charts because they wont connect to skinnee labs, of course.


That's wild, Stren's testing was showed a different story all together.

One thing I'm curious about though, what does it mean when they say 380i and 380i @ 90 deg.? Is that mounting it at a 90 degree turn?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As Far as I know HWL are their own OEM


Partnership or HL is Koolance's new oem, ? These are pretty high fpi nah?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's wild, Stren's testing was showed a different story all together.
> 
> One thing I'm curious about though, what does it mean when they say 380i and 380i @ 90 deg.? Is that mounting it at a 90 degree turn?


yes the cpu block is rotated 90* on a 2011 socket because of the way the die is under the ihs.


----------



## LunaP

Alright so was talking w/ the FCPU rep yesterday and almost forgot I needed some sort of agent for my loop since all I had was distilled / mayhems dye , so he had me grab IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal PC Coolant Additive - 15 mL

Just wanted to verify on something though, my resbay from monsoon came w/ antimicrobial silver bullet plugs installed, since my loops is all copper and I'm already putting in the dead -water etc, is it ok to keep them in or should I swap them out?

Also since people were going back and forth on PSU's and I've been scavenging the forums for the past 2 months on them, I think this would probably be the best thread to ask since we have some serious WC's here. Is anyone using a single PSU for tri-sli or higher with high overclocks w/o an issue? If so which PSU are you using? According to the top end gurus anything over 1300 is shot down or crap.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yes the cpu block is rotated 90* on a 2011 socket because of the way the die is under the ihs.


Word, so looks like my best option is moar rads and fans!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Word, so looks like my best option is moar rads and fans!


Yeah, that is typically going to get you the biggest change in temps.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I could always just delid the sucker. I really wanted to keep this one stock though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright so was talking w/ the FCPU rep yesterday and almost forgot I needed some sort of agent for my loop since all I had was distilled / mayhems dye , so he had me grab IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal PC Coolant Additive - 15 mL
> 
> Just wanted to verify on something though, my resbay from monsoon came w/ antimicrobial silver bullet plugs installed, since my loops is all copper and I'm already putting in the dead -water etc, is it ok to keep them in or should I swap them out?
> 
> Also since people were going back and forth on PSU's and I've been scavenging the forums for the past 2 months on them, I think this would probably be the best thread to ask since we have some serious WC's here. Is anyone using a single PSU for tri-sli or higher with high overclocks w/o an issue? If so which PSU are you using? According to the top end gurus anything over 1300 is shot down or crap.


You can leave them in or take them out,it's up to you.
As for the PSU,I run tri sli and 2 x5650 hexacores with a heavy oc a single psu,a lot quadfire guys run a single psu. I run a Enermax myself.

The only guru you should listen to is Jonnyguru when it comes to PSU's


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can leave them in or take them out,it's up to you.
> As for the PSU,I run tri sli and 2 x5650 hexacores with a heavy oc a single psu,a lot quadfire guys run a single psu. I run a Enermax myself.
> 
> The only guru you should listen to is Jonnyguru when it comes to PSU's


Is that an enermax 1500? I take that it supports single rail? I'll look it up, since enermax/Corsair run hand in hand do you think my custom cables for my 1200i would work fine in the 1500?

Appreciate it!


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's good, to me, to see the Raystrom CPU block is a decent middle of the road block. Of course I'll be putting mine on an FX-6100 though lol.


----------



## lowfat

Need the mandrels to arrive so I can start bending.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can leave them in or take them out,it's up to you.
> As for the PSU,I run tri sli and 2 x5650 hexacores with a heavy oc a single psu,a lot quadfire guys run a single psu. I run a Enermax myself.
> 
> The only guru you should listen to is Jonnyguru when it comes to PSU's
> 
> 
> 
> Is that an enermax 1500? I take that it supports single rail? I'll look it up, since enermax/Corsair run hand in hand do you think my custom cables for my 1200i would work fine in the 1500?
> 
> Appreciate it!
Click to expand...

Enermax have nothing to do with Corsair,they dont share a platform.
Corsair don't even make PSU's.
So it's safe to say no.

If you want more info then start a thread.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Enermax have nothing to do with Corsair,they dont share a platform.
> Corsair don't even make PSU's.
> So it's safe to say no.
> 
> If you want more info then start a thread.


quoted me to soon , already edited previous, got what I need appreciate it!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys posted my rig yesturday a corsair 750D....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Before i had my EX 360 (top rad) and EX 240 (bottom rad) intaking air and a 140mm fan as exhaust,then switch back the 360 rad to exhaust because i didnt have any filters....Now i want to add another 240 rad to the front of the case,i want to know what would be the best config for having 3 rads ?....All rads as intakes or front and bottom intakes and top exhaust....


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Need the mandrels to arrive so I can start bending.


Even with just basic hardware, that primarily black theme is smexy... I'd love to replace my original RIVE with an all black RIVE, but it's not in my budget (I know yours isn't a RIVE, just admiring your all black mobo). I may end up rattle canning the red ports mine to go with that look.

Ironically my mandrels arrived this morning along with my other stuff, but it'll be at least a month before I start bending.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Need the mandrels to arrive so I can start bending.


ya it is so painful waiting for packages around the holidays. i have a huge order from frozen cpu coming. After paying for next day so I could build during my vacation, I waited my whole 8 day vacation and nothing arrived. On the 8th day it showed being delivered back to frozencpu. UPS damaged the package. Then yesterday frozencpu overnighted it back to me which I thought was cool since it wasn't there fault but we had a huge snowstorm so now it's stuck in buffalo. I want my bending kit and blocks so badly.

Plus my ek be edition block has been processing for a week. I know it''s the holidays so I don't get mad but it's frustrating. I have 4 - 6' acryllic tubes waiting for the bending kit and new blocks. I like the quality of the ek tubes better but they only come in 19" pieces and I feel like I might need a longer piece for the sth10.

I got 24' from usplastics for $9 compared to 13.5' of the ek tubes for $64. I can see the quality difference though. The ek tubing has a much thicker wall and the edges are much cleaner and the ek tubing arrives cleaner overall.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys posted my rig yesturday a corsair 750D....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before i had my EX 360 (top rad) and EX 240 (bottom rad) intaking air and a 140mm fan as exhaust,then switch back the 360 rad to exhaust because i didnt have any filters....Now i want to add another 240 rad to the front of the case,i want to know what would be the best config for having 3 rads ?....All rads as intakes or *front and bottom intakes and top exhaust*....


I would set it up as the latter.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys posted my rig yesturday a corsair 750D....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before i had my EX 360 (top rad) and EX 240 (bottom rad) intaking air and a 140mm fan as exhaust,then switch back the 360 rad to exhaust because i didnt have any filters....Now i want to add another 240 rad to the front of the case,i want to know what would be the best config for having 3 rads ?....All rads as intakes or front and bottom intakes and top exhaust....


All intakes. Cooler air outside the case coming in through the rads cools better than hot air inside the case through the rads.


----------



## Striker36

in applications like computer cases the natural flow of hot and cold is pretty much irrelevant setting the top and rear to exhaust might be better in theory but in practice even one fan will disrupt and mix the flow enough to render all of that moot. Cooler air flowing through rads is better for cooling period. so IMO running all your rad fans as intake and having everything else dump the hot air would be the best option. with that said if your in case is in a badly ventilated spot you may need to adjust accordingly....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> All intakes. Cooler air outside the case coming in through the rads cools better than hot air inside the case through the rads.


Lol, I normally say the same thing, then everyone yells at me.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> No suggestions?! Nothing!


The res would be good but going to a push only 120 rad vs a push/pull 140 would be a downgrade imo, even if the 120 is thicker.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The res would be good but going to a push only 120 rad vs a push/pull 140 would be a downgrade imo, even if the 120 is thicker.


Thank you very much. I appreciate it!


----------



## subsven

Even though it hasn't gotten a lot of attention I figure I'd share the fruits of my labors today.









First, the unpacking.









Finally, after HOURS of labor and pressure testing and wiping and zip typing, etc, etc...









*edit* I have no idea why it rotated the unpacking picks upside down???

Oops, forgot to add my idle temps. (This is after 15 mins or so)


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamHL*
> 
> My system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can i change something?
> Thanks!


I like the color theme but am not a fan on external rads do a case mod to get it in there, use the koolance top rad to seamlessly hide the rad

This just in...

Ordered two 420 rads to put into a 750D with a hard drive cage removal,
XSPC EX420 Triple Fan
EK-CoolStream Radiator XTC





build log


----------



## Anoxy

So, more rads = lower fan speed = quieter build?

Is my logic correct here or am I a moron?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So, more rads = lower fan speed = quieter build?
> 
> Is my logic correct here or am I a moron?


Some would say that that is radiator thickness dependent, but overall, yes. That's correct. And just asking a question will never make you a moron. What you do with the answers to the question does.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamHL*
> 
> My system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can i change something?
> Thanks!


put the 360 in the top and mod the front for the 240.


----------



## stickg1

Lol speaking of stupid questions where's our boy ricky?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Lol speaking of stupid questions where's our boy ricky?





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



he has started 2 threads looking for help. i decided to help him since he finally created the threads. i will share all of my very very very limited knowledge with him. by the time im done with him, he still wont know anything.


----------



## stickg1

Aw good for him. I was worried he got his head stuck in the microwave preparing his tv dinner or something.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I would set it up as the latter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> All intakes. Cooler air outside the case coming in through the rads cools better than hot air inside the case through the rads.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> in applications like computer cases the natural flow of hot and cold is pretty much irrelevant setting the top and rear to exhaust might be better in theory but in practice even one fan will disrupt and mix the flow enough to render all of that moot. Cooler air flowing through rads is better for cooling period. so IMO running all your rad fans as intake and having everything else dump the hot air would be the best option. with that said if your in case is in a badly ventilated spot you may need to adjust accordingly....


Thanks for the help guys....Another question i would like to ask,when i had my top rad as intake my mobo went as high as 47c (normally sits between 30-35c with top rad exhausting) ,i would like to know whats the max temps i should ever want to see on a mobo....?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thanks for the help guys....Another question i would like to ask,when i had my top rad as intake my mobo went as high as 47c (normally sits between 30-35c with top rad exhausting) ,i would like to know whats the max temps i should ever want to see on a mobo....?


You probably won't see it go much higher than that. Nothing to worry about


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You probably won't see it go much higher than that. Nothing to worry about


I was just asking because,i do want to add another rad which will introduce more heat into the pc....


----------



## Durvelle27

Finally finished my rig


----------



## stickg1

In my situation, I will have every single fan mount housing a radiator. So I plan to have at least one of them being an exhaust, even though it isn't optimal for introducing the coolest air possible to my rads. But I don't see any other way.

Would it be okay to use the top rad (Swiftech MCR220) with SP120's in pull only as intake? Right now I have it as push exhaust. I don't want to hide the pretty paint-job on the fan rings


----------



## VSG

I got both of my rads (1 top, 1 bottom) on intake. It would kinda depend on your case for positive pressure but don't think too much about it as long as you got a general air flow in and out.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> In my situation, I will have every single fan mount housing a radiator. So I plan to have at least one of them being an exhaust, even though it isn't optimal for introducing the coolest air possible to my rads. But I don't see any other way.
> 
> Would it be okay to use the top rad (Swiftech MCR220) with SP120's in pull only as intake? Right now I have it as push exhaust. I don't want to hide the pretty paint-job on the fan rings


sure. why wouldn't it? if any thing it will net you better temps.

and now its my turn to post pretty pictures as i finally have some tangible work done on Monolith!

I got my MoBo mounted to a new tray I made after flipping a Lian Li PC-A76 when I decided i wanted an Inverted ATX build and today I got that AlphaCool HF38 cyclone res I posted about a couple pages ago mounted using the much more minimalistic EK reservoir brackets I had leftover from when I tore the water out of my Reactor build.



the picture is less than ideal but the res is PERFECTLY vertical (to just over the 64th of an inch) as measured from both the edge of the motherboard AND the chassis in two spots (top and bottom)


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

I also switched my push fans to pull on my top exhaust 20minutes ago, push intake is said to be better, but I still gets better temps than exhausting....


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I just worry because it would have to pull through the radiator and the dust filter foam. But I reckon the SP120s have enough arse to handle it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> In my situation, I will have every single fan mount housing a radiator. So I plan to have at least one of them being an exhaust, even though it isn't optimal for introducing the coolest air possible to my rads. But I don't see any other way.
> 
> Would it be okay to use the top rad (Swiftech MCR220) with SP120's in pull only as intake? Right now I have it as push exhaust. I don't want to hide the pretty paint-job on the fan rings


Pull only is fine. Performance between push or pull is very similar. Usually low RPM is slightly better with pull and high RPM is slightly better with push.

With SP120's I like them in push in the top because of the asthetics. Honestly, if you are getting good airflow into the case, swapping it to pull will not give a huge difference. If you are happy with your temps currently, there isn't a need to swap it around


----------



## stickg1

My CPU temps don't impress me. That's why I'm thinking of making changes. I'm too sick to get out of bed though. Thank goodness for my GS4, otherwise I'd fall hundreds of posts behind, lol.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I just worry because it would have to pull through the radiator and the dust filter foam. But I reckon the SP120s have enough arse to handle it.


You should be ok, but I also recommend taking out the Fractal dust filters they put in the Arc Midi R2. They are rediculously thick. My temps dropped a good 5-10C after removing them. If you still want filters, I'd get some of the magnetic ones and put them under the top slide thing


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My CPU temps don't impress me. That's why I'm thinking of making changes. I'm too sick to get out of bed though. Thank goodness for my GS4, otherwise I'd fall hundreds of posts behind, lol.


Hope you get well soon!


----------



## stickg1

Thanks

Hopefully I'm better in the morning. It's been a few days of this. My last rad will be tomorrow and I want to work on my rig.

This Otterbox better be pretty durable because if my Clemson Tigers blow this game I'm throwing it through the flatscreen.


----------



## mrinfinit3

OMG did I actually do this? http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/460
I am ashamed lol

Before: 
"Ugly as sin"

AFTER:
Here are a few updated pics of that build... (Yes that IS the same case)














Sorry for the dirty case... needs dusting I know.









(New build in progress with chiller and CM HAF Stacker 935 +915)


----------



## mrinfinit3

Was asked for Spec sheet and a close up of the custom fiberglassed skull.
Here you go:


Specs are a bit outdated I must say, but thus the reason for the new build coming soon








(Specs are in the sig labeled "Space Heater")


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Hopefully I'm better in the morning. It's been a few days of this. My last rad will be tomorrow and I want to work on my rig.
> 
> This Otterbox better be pretty durable because if my Clemson Tigers blow this game I'm throwing it through the flatscreen.


My Otterbox saved my iPhone 5 from a fall from a second story roof to the clients driveway. No damage to Otterbox or phone. Pretty sure your flat screen won't survive though. Lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> My Otterbox saved my iPhone 5 from a fall from a second story roof to the clients driveway. No damage to Otterbox or phone. Pretty sure your flat screen won't survive though. Lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My CPU temps don't impress me. That's why I'm thinking of making changes. I'm too sick to get out of bed though. Thank goodness for my GS4, otherwise I'd fall hundreds of posts behind, lol.


The flatscreen is presumably more expensive than the phone tho....

Make otterboxes for teh TVs, then we can throw things at them all the time!


----------



## Lefik

Do you guys know where I could get some of the G1/4 plugs that aquacomputer bundles with a lot of their products? I can't seem to find them anywhere.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Do you guys know where I could get some of the G1/4 plugs that aquacomputer bundles with a lot of their products? I can't seem to find them anywhere.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


heres the exact product

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p290_screw-plug-G1-4-Inch.html

-


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Do you guys know where I could get some of the G1/4 plugs that aquacomputer bundles with a lot of their products? I can't seem to find them anywhere.


Like these?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25271

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=33561


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Got my EK nickel base plates swapped for full copper ones. I thought it looked awful at first, but the copper look has been growing on me.

I may need to install the EK SLI link on the left ports, doesn't quite look right, but at least the blocks are back on my Titans.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Like these?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25271
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=33561


Same function, but the aquacomputer ones just have a spot in the middle for an Alan key instead of a insert for a coin.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> heres the exact product
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p290_screw-plug-G1-4-Inch.html
> 
> -


Thanks!


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys finally got my first successful bend in, barely but came out decent, only went through 2 tubes to get it. Was about to start the rest then thought about a new layout.

Bayres/pump --> XSPC photon res--> CPU --> 480 UT60--> GPU1-->GPU2-->GPU3-->480UT60-->480UT60-->480UT60-->Repeat


----------



## NYMD

First attempt at running the GPU -> RAM -> CPU -> RAM lines just to see how it fits....


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> First attempt at running the GPU -> RAM -> CPU -> RAM lines just to see how it fits....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks amazing!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Original:
> Bayres/pump --> XSPC photon res--> CPU --> 480 UT60--> GPU1-->GPU2-->GPU3-->480UT60-->480UT60-->480UT60-->Repeat


My Thoughts:
Bayres/pump --> XSPC photon res--> 480 UT60--> CPU--> GPU1-->GPU2-->GPU3-->480UT60-->480UT60-->480UT60-->Repeat

Having the fluid go into rad after CPU won't really have much effect on temps overall and I feel that the tubing layout would look cleaner this way. Just my two cents though.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Anyone know where I can find 10mm (3/8) compression fittings for the rigid tubing?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find 10mm (3/8) compression fittings for the rigid tubing?


*top tip for hard acrylic tube*: don't mix imperial w/ metric or vice verse. Its either 3/8" or 10mm size. You can't interchange both unlike traditional nylon tube.

There are some push fittings for 3/8" and Phobya makes some push fittings for 10mm.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-In-Male-Fittings-3-8-OD-x-1-4-BSPP-G-Thread-10-PC-/260453196642?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ca4386362

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html

As far as compression like Primochill Ghost (1/2", not 12 or 13mm), I have not seen any for either size.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> First attempt at running the GPU -> RAM -> CPU -> RAM lines just to see how it fits....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks amazing!
Click to expand...

Completely agree. Best looking neoprene runs I've seen probably ever








*this is from a guy that is not usually a fan of how the neoprene looks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *top tip for hard acrylic tube*: don't mix imperial w/ metric or vice verse. Its either 3/8" or 10mm size. You can't interchange both unlike traditional nylon tube.
> 
> There are some push fittings for 3/8" and Phobya makes some push fittings for 10mm.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-In-Male-Fittings-3-8-OD-x-1-4-BSPP-G-Thread-10-PC-/260453196642?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ca4386362
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html
> 
> As far as compression like Primochill Ghost (1/2", not 12 or 13mm), I have not seen any for either size.


All of this ^

You try to mix metric and imperial and you will be one sad customer when the tube is too big to fit in the fitting or too small to form a seal and leaks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

And my Tidy cat flushing system is set up lol


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Aw good for him. I was worried he got his head stuck in the microwave preparing his tv dinner or something.


Now, now...lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And my Tidy cat flushing system is set up lol


Now _that's_ some sweet recycling!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thanks, needed a bucket for the pond pump and my mom had the litter bucket so now it's my Watercooling flush system


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And my Tidy cat flushing system is set up lol


Tidy's got the scoop on litter
Tidy's got the scoop on flushing


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And my Tidy cat flushing system is set up lol


My sincerest condolences go out to anyone who has to live where they have to buy kitty litter in 35Lb. kegs. . .









D.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just digging out the DSLR now and charging teh battery

Just picked it up on the way to PARVUM Systems to bend some tube for their MAGNUS rig.

Justin from PARVUM...being all David Bailey.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lmao, and my mom only has one cat


----------



## psycho84

Dual Laing is running ^^


----------



## stickg1

Anyone see the fan controller Gelid is releasing? The Speedtouch 6? At $35 MSRP it seems pretty attractive, for me anyway, a baller on a budget.











http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=13&id=107


----------



## fa5terba11

Hey guys,
I just made some updates to my system. I changed the cpu block and added the diamond plate film to the bottom cover and drive bay cover. I delidded my cpu so I went ahead and bought the naked ivy cpu mounting system from EK. So far my temps are phenomenal. Here are some pics. A link to my build log is at the bottom.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I just made some updates to my system. I changed the cpu block and added the diamond plate film to the bottom cover and drive bay cover. I delidded my cpu so I went ahead and bought the naked ivy cpu mounting system from EK. So far my temps are phenomenal. Here are some pics. A link to my build log is at the bottom.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good, like that blue acrylic top in the loop.


----------



## Kires

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone see the fan controller Gelid is releasing? The Speedtouch 6? At $35 MSRP it seems pretty attractive, for me anyway, a baller on a budget.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=13&id=107


Thats sick... I'm not much for an actual fan controller but I might get that!


----------



## stickg1

I just need something to get my SP120's in between 12v and 7v. For me, 12v is too loud and 7v isn't enough RPMs for adequate cooling of my CPU. GPU is still fine though because my Koolance 290X full cover block is the sex but that's to be expected!


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering can I put Akasa splitter into cpu opt pin header or not. I have two radiator and I want to put both splitter to control the fans for the cpu cooler stuff. How can I do that?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone see the fan controller Gelid is releasing? The Speedtouch 6? At $35 MSRP it seems pretty attractive, for me anyway, *a baller on a budget*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=13&id=107


It's been my experience that low budget balls seldom performed up to expectations or had much endurance.









[/double entendre]

Darlene


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's been my experience that low budget balls seldom performed up to expectations or had much endurance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/double entendre]
> 
> Darlene


Endurance might be lacking, but I finish first every time!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> I just put it in last night before I went to bed. I left the pump on full throttle all day today, so I will check it when I get home from work. Anyone have any experience with primochill intensifier dye? I've read most dyes leave gunk and build up on the blocks. Just curious if anyone has had any experience with primochills transparent intensifier dyes.


I've been catching up with this thread and I didn't see anyone else answer you. I use their blood red intensifier and I've used it for several months now. I just took my system apart last weekend to change a few things and inspect my blocks. I didn't see any signs of gunk deposits or anything else that would suggest that it would be bad to use. The only issue is that it does stain the tubing after a couple of weeks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone see the fan controller Gelid is releasing? The Speedtouch 6? At $35 MSRP it seems pretty attractive, for me anyway, *a baller on a budget*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=13&id=107
> 
> 
> 
> It's been my experience that low budget balls seldom performed up to expectations or had much endurance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/double entendre]
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

And its all about endurance.
Sustained than max power.

Oh Darlene.....if only you came with 1/4" threads.......


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey guys finally got my first successful bend in, barely but came out decent, only went through 2 tubes to get it. Was about to start the rest then thought about a new layout.
> 
> Bayres/pump --> XSPC photon res--> CPU --> 480 UT60--> GPU1-->GPU2-->GPU3-->480UT60-->480UT60-->480UT60-->Repeat


I think the water will bypass your gpu block with that layout. I could be wrong but you should move the exit over to the left port.


----------



## IT Diva

To follow up a little on what perhaps seemed initially to be more humorous than factual;

The issues with low budget controllers really manifests when you start to load multiple channels so that the overall load becomes fairly significant.

One or two channels loaded to near capacity isn't usually going to be an issue.

With the current IC technology used in voltage regulator circuits, it's not too hard any more to control significantly higher currents than a few years ago, with less heat being produced.

This is good. . . . We have a lot of controllers to choose from with 30 to 36W per channel capability.

The down side is that controller manufacturers are not stepping up their onboard infrastructure to carry the total amount of current that multiple channel loading requires.

They advertise 30W per channel, and hope you don't put that much load on more than a couple channels, with very little on the rest.

30W per channel is 180W for all 6 at max.

That's 15Amps on the 12V supply connection and the PCB traces emanating from it.

That little 3 pin connector isn't rated for even half that amount.

I'd bet for sure that the wire then send to adapt the molex to that connector isn't anywhere near the gage it needs to be for that current level.

Even Molex connectors are only really good for about 6 Amps per pin, a bit more if you solder the connection.

If your load requirements are well under half of what the controller advertises, it'll probably be just fine and give good performance for a normal life span.

If you really need to max out its capability, you should be looking at a very high end controller with a track record for extended, trouble free, hi power usage.

Darlene


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Haha is this a good or a bad segue to post my eBay special? Unremarkable, yes, except for the price I guess-$8 free shipping direct from China. Frankly bought more for bling (internal 3.5 bay) than anything; may not even use for my (at present relatively few) radiator fans. Do like the lack of branding too though.

Before I bother to open it anybody have any insight on how easy it may be to mod to white led?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Is it at all ironic my Bitfenix Recon 5 came DOA today while you guys are having this conversation


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is it at all ironic my Bitfenix Recon 5 came DOA today while you guys are having this conversation


Cheap crap always costs more in the end, . . . one way or another . . .

Darlene


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To follow up a little on what perhaps seemed initially to be more humorous than factual;
> 
> The issues with low budget controllers really manifests when you start to load multiple channels so that the overall load becomes fairly significant.
> 
> One or two channels loaded to near capacity isn't usually going to be an issue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: 8<
> 
> 
> 
> With the current IC technology used in voltage regulator circuits, it's not too hard any more to control significantly higher currents than a few years ago, with less heat being produced.
> 
> This is good. . . . We have a lot of controllers to choose from with 30 to 36W per channel capability.
> 
> The down side is that controller manufacturers are not stepping up their onboard infrastructure to carry the total amount of current that multiple channel loading requires.
> 
> They advertise 30W per channel, and hope you don't put that much load on more than a couple channels, with very little on the rest.
> 
> 30W per channel is 180W for all 6 at max.
> 
> That's 15Amps on the 12V supply connection and the PCB traces emanating from it.
> 
> That little 3 pin connector isn't rated for even half that amount.
> 
> I'd bet for sure that the wire then send to adapt the molex to that connector isn't anywhere near the gage it needs to be for that current level.
> 
> Even Molex connectors are only really good for about 6 Amps per pin, a bit more if you solder the connection.
> 
> 
> 
> If your load requirements are well under half of what the controller advertises, it'll probably be just fine and give good performance for a normal life span.
> 
> If you really need to max out its capability, you should be looking at a very high end controller with a track record for extended, trouble free, hi power usage.
> 
> Darlene


That's why I'm thinking for the 6 fans I want to control something like this may very well be adequate, for my usage anyway. I'm not controlling a pump and only have 6x 3-pin Corsair SP120's.


----------



## stickg1

Speaking of Corsair SP120's, my last few came in the mail yesterday. Painted and installed. Still missing my bottom radiator though..


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Speaking of Corsair SP120's, my last few came in the mail yesterday. Painted and installed. Still missing my bottom radiator though..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking pretty good, just my thought here, but I feel that the yellow rings and PCI slot covers would look better in gold.


----------



## dade_kash_xD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've been catching up with this thread and I didn't see anyone else answer you. I use their blood red intensifier and I've used it for several months now. I just took my system apart last weekend to change a few things and inspect my blocks. I didn't see any signs of gunk deposits or anything else that would suggest that it would be bad to use. The only issue is that it does stain the tubing after a couple of weeks.


Thanks so much for answering that for me! I don't mind the tubes staining because my tubes red. Thanks again man!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Looking pretty good, just my thought here, but I feel that the yellow rings and PCI slot covers would look better in gold.


You're probably right, especially since the little bit of yellow on the MSI MPOWER is hidden by components at this point anyway. I did experiment with a few different shades but this particular paint is readily available in a spray can and adheres to plastic and metal alike very well.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-12-oz-Fusion-Gloss-for-Plastic-Sunbeam/17253592

That, and I'm lazy, lol.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And its all about endurance.
> Sustained than max power.
> 
> Oh Darlene.....if only you came with 1/4" threads.......


Well, you can tap and rethread to G1/4









@wrigleyvillain
Can you send a link to that 3.5 fan controller? Need an inexpensive fan controller for 12 fans.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The Monsoon kit has arrived and they were not lying,its a fantastic kit!





Bend quality is great too.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> My Thoughts:
> Bayres/pump --> XSPC photon res--> 480 UT60--> CPU--> GPU1-->GPU2-->GPU3-->480UT60-->480UT60-->480UT60-->Repeat
> 
> Having the fluid go into rad after CPU won't really have much effect on temps overall and I feel that the tubing layout would look cleaner this way. Just my two cents though.


Ah I figured since its a 480 it'd help at least a bit with pushing out some heat prior to hitting 3 cards. Vs just getting hotter as it goes through them. Was thinking it'd be cleaner w/ the res doing directly into the CPU vs going all the way across then down into the RAD, that way I could angle the rad out to 1 shot the GPU and go straight up from there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I think the water will bypass your gpu block with that layout. I could be wrong but you should move the exit over to the left port.


oops, yeah sorry about that was just drawing it out, went and looked up the specs for flow and seems I can use either port for entry, would parallel be best for 3 cards or would serial be fine?


----------



## morencyam

From what I understand, parallel or series doesn't make much of a difference in temps


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Monsoon kit has arrived and they were not lying,its a fantastic kit!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bend quality is great too.


Finally, a monsoon product you fancy








. I trust the Magoo committee gave it the paws up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Monsoon kit has arrived and they were not lying,its a fantastic kit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bend quality is great too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a monsoon product you fancy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I trust the Magoo committee gave it the paws up.
Click to expand...

This kit and the new fittings they are coming out with are innovative...and i like that.

Magoo was charging around PARVUM workshop while i was bending them some tube for MAGNUS,sweeping up endless acrylic shavings....he stinks like a plastics factory and Im pretty sure he was eating it too....


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> , would parallel be best for 3 cards or would serial be fine?


http://koolance.com/help-video-block-connecting
Quote:


> The configuration you use depends on your individual cooling system. A common misconception is that running parallel paths in the same loop is always better. Experimentation is usually suggested. Keep in mind that parallel lines reduce coolant pressure, so results will depend upon the pump and tubing configuration. In a serial system, only 2-3°C is typically added between video blocks.
> 
> To illustrate this point, let's say two video blocks are connected in series. The first video block is operating at 45°C, while the second is at 47°C. This is disturbing to some users. They want both video blocks at exactly the same temperature, so the blocks are reconnected in parallel. However, due to the pressure decrease of parallel paths and additional restrictions in the loop, both cards may now operate at 48°C.


Quote from the link i posted....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah I figured since its a 480 it'd help at least a bit with pushing out some heat prior to hitting 3 cards. Vs just getting hotter as it goes through them. Was thinking it'd be cleaner w/ the res doing directly into the CPU vs going all the way across then down into the RAD, that way I could angle the rad out to 1 shot the GPU and go straight up from there.
> oops, yeah sorry about that was just drawing it out, went and looked up the specs for flow and seems I can use either port for entry, *would parallel be best for 3 cards or would serial be fine?*


Quote:


> The configuration you use depends on your individual cooling system. A common misconception is that running parallel paths in the same loop is always better. Experimentation is usually suggested. Keep in mind that parallel lines reduce coolant pressure, so results will depend upon the pump and tubing configuration. In a serial system, only 2-3°C is typically added between video blocks.
> 
> To illustrate this point, let's say two video blocks are connected in series. The first video block is operating at 45°C, while the second is at 47°C. This is disturbing to some users. They want both video blocks at exactly the same temperature, so the blocks are reconnected in parallel. However, due to the pressure decrease of parallel paths and additional restrictions in the loop, both cards may now operate at 48°C.


Quote from: http://koolance.com/help-video-block-connecting


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This kit and the new fittings they are coming out with are innovative...and i like that.
> 
> Magoo was charging around PARVUM workshop while i was bending them some tube for MAGNUS,sweeping up endless acrylic shavings....he stinks like a plastics factory and Im pretty sure he was eating it too....


(post fixed, on tablet and hard to spoiler).

Did you use a forming rod as well?


----------



## Anoxy

At what point does one MCP-655 pump become inadequate?

If I'm pushing a 360 UT60, 240 Monsta, 240 UT60, to cool two cards and a cpu, will that one pump be enough?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Looking forward to using my Monsoon kit too, but first I have to finalize my loop route.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> At what point does one MCP-655 pump become inadequate?
> 
> If I'm pushing a 360 UT60, 240 Monsta, 240 UT60, to cool two cards and a cpu, will that one pump be enough?


Yes,easily.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> At what point does one MCP-655 pump become inadequate?
> 
> If I'm pushing a 360 UT60, 240 Monsta, 240 UT60, to cool two cards and a cpu, will that one pump be enough?


Yep, that pump will handle your set up just fine.


----------



## Pheozero

If someone would be so kind to tell, what is the difference between the MCP655 variable and the 655-B version?


----------



## stickg1

The 655-B is fixed speed, the variable is adjustable (or variable) speed.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> If someone would be so kind to tell, what is the difference between the MCP655 variable and the 655-B version?


Basically the MCP655 Variable can run at 5 different speeds, while the "B" or basic version only runs at 1 speed.


----------



## Pheozero

Thanks guys!


----------



## morencyam

To elaborate on that a little more, the variable 655 can be run at speed settings 1-5, while the 655-B is permanently set to speed 4.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> To elaborate on that a little more, the variable 655 can be run at speed settings 1-5, while the 655-B is permanently set to speed 4.


Speed 4? I did not know that. I almost added on my previous post that it ran at full speed, meaning Speed 5. Thankfully I didn't lol


----------



## stickg1

Those 655-B's move some dang fluid that's for sure. I ran one on my old loop. It was too powerful until I added the MVF stock mobo block to the loop. Then the restriction that block adds was enough to tame the flow down to where I didn't need to swap pumps for a variable speed.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Those 655-B's move some dang fluid that's for sure. I ran one on my old loop. It was too powerful until I added the MVF stock mobo block to the loop. Then the restriction that block adds was enough to tame the flow down to where I didn't need to swap pumps for a variable speed.


How did you notice any restriction? I have said block with a MCP35x pump and I'm still trying to figure out what speed I should put it at.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Monsoon kit has arrived and they were not lying,its a fantastic kit!
> 
> 
> 
> Bend quality is great too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just started using the kit and YES, it's really cool... HOWEVER, I'm a bit disappointed by the mitre box... It's so snug that if you try to put tube in there thats close to a bend, you run the risk of cracking your tube. Don't ask me how I know


----------



## Striker36

This is good to hear. I'm seriously considering picking that kit up after I get some bills I have been putting off paid.... The miter box thing is a little annoying though. But i have plenty of work arounds for that already so its kind of not a problem


----------



## DarthBaggins

Installed 120 rad on push pull and pump in the case, happy to see there will be plenty of room for my 240 when it arrives


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> How did you notice any restriction? I have said block with a MCP35x pump and I'm still trying to figure out what speed I should put it at.


The first time I set up that loop without the mobo blocks the water gushed into the res so hard it filled with micro-bubbles and created a foam. Added that block to the loop and the flow was much more calm. Still a little too high flow but it worked properly with no foam.


----------



## bern43

After procrastinating for way too long I finally hooked up my first loop . . . only to find out that my pump top is leaking. Email already sent to Swiftech.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> After procrastinating for way too long I finally hooked up my first loop . . . only to find out that my pump top is leaking. Email already sent to Swiftech.


Where's it leaking from?


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Where's it leaking from?


Where the pump top meets the pump on the lookers left pump. Took an hour before I noticed a tiny line of water right at the seam. My understanding is that if it's leaking from there water probably got to the PCB. Pump was still working when I shut it off before draining but it was starting to get hot.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quick questions for my OCN peeps...

The Caselabs SM8 came just before Christmas. It's nothing new under the sun. And sadly, I didn't do a build log because I am to busy to take all the pics and make all the notes that would make up a proper build log. But here it is anyway. And like many of us in here, I do not have great lighting for pics in this room, so once I am done with this part of the build (going acrylic later), I will take some outdoors pics since that seems to have the best results outside of a studio-like environments... which is not gonna happen.









So the first question: What sticks out as something I could do better with this build??





These are really bad pics... so sorry about that. The extra connector in the front is there to power the FC because I forgot to order the 24in 4 pin molex extension.









Secondly, here are my temps so far. Are these in line with what I should expect? The rads are the Quiet series, and not the high performance versions. This rig is SUPER quiet so that worked out perfectly. I am running the 480 in p/p at around 750 RPM, and the front rad is using the new white Corsair AF LED in Push only since the the SP's are not in LED. Hopefully, that changes.









I ran Prime95 for only 15 minutes but once it hit these temps, it never went over 55C for 13 of the 16 total minutes... This includes running Unigine Heaven 4 in 5760 x 1080.



Let me know if I should be running anything else or if this pretty much tell us what we need to know.

Lastly, I need to know what lighting would be best to show this thing off a bit. I bought a few sleeved NZXT dual 3mm 4pin molex and they are already dim. Did I do something wrong aside from buying the wrong quality? They seem to start off really bright and then just start getting really dim after only a few days. Usually one worse than the other.

I see that some of you are using some really nice 3rd party non-custom lighting. Can I get some guidance on this?

Oh... and I am using the EK Blood Red juice. It stays clean, and if the system is flushed really well beforehand, looks amazing for months with Primochill Advanced LRT. Is anyone using this with UV lighting?
As always... thanks everyone. Good to be back!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> After procrastinating for way too long I finally hooked up my first loop . . . only to find out that my pump top is leaking. Email already sent to Swiftech.


those gpus wont be cooled. you have water flowing in the right and flowing straght back out the right. move the top or bottom tube to the left.


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> those gpus wont be cooled. you have water flowing in the right and flowing straght back out the right. move the top or bottom tube to the left.


The aquacomputer connecter has a set screw that directs the flow to the other side.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> The aquacomputer connecter has a set screw that directs the flow to the other side.


well thats dumb. it makes people look at it and say " you have no cooling on your gpus"...


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> well thats dumb. it makes people look at it and say " you have no cooling on your gpus"...


lol... this...


----------



## pc-illiterate

i hope you have pics explaining this feature. on all sites selling the bridge, it looks like a plain old universal bridge. i have no idea where that sealing plug would go.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quick questions for my OCN peeps...


I brightened them up a bit for you...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is it at all ironic my Bitfenix Recon 5 came DOA today while you guys are having this conversation


Well, to be fair, I've been using a BitFenix Recon to control my six NB fans for over two years now and have never had any failures. Now, for some reason I can't actually control the fan speeds (they are either at 100% or off) but each channel is powering two fans and it has never burned out. I've wanted to replace it for a while but other stuff keeps ending up needing my money...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quick questions for my OCN peeps...
> 
> The Caselabs SM8 came just before Christmas. It's nothing new under the sun. And sadly, I didn't do a build log because I am to busy to take all the pics and make all the notes that would make up a proper build log. But here it is anyway. And like many of us in here, I do not have great lighting for pics in this room, so once I am done with this part of the build (going acrylic later), I will take some outdoors pics since that seems to have the best results outside of a studio-like environments... which is not gonna happen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the first question: What sticks out as something I could do better with this build??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are really bad pics... so sorry about that. The extra connector in the front is there to power the FC because I forgot to order the 24in 4 pin molex extension.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Secondly, here are my temps so far. Are these in line with what I should expect? The rads are the Quiet series, and not the high performance versions. This rig is SUPER quiet so that worked out perfectly. I am running the 480 in p/p at around 750 RPM, and the front rad is using the new white Corsair AF LED in Push only since the the SP's are not in LED. Hopefully, that changes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran Prime95 for only 15 minutes but once it hit these temps, it never went over 55C for 13 of the 16 total minutes... This includes running Unigine Heaven 4 in 5760 x 1080.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if I should be running anything else or if this pretty much tell us what we need to know.
> 
> Lastly, I need to know what lighting would be best to show this thing off a bit. I bought a few sleeved NZXT dual 3mm 4pin molex and they are already dim. Did I do something wrong aside from buying the wrong quality? They seem to start off really bright and then just start getting really dim after only a few days. Usually one worse than the other.
> 
> I see that some of you are using some really nice 3rd party non-custom lighting. Can I get some guidance on this?
> 
> Oh... and I am using the EK Blood Red juice. It stays clean, and if the system is flushed really well beforehand, looks amazing for months with Primochill Advanced LRT. Is anyone using this with UV lighting?
> As always... thanks everyone. Good to be back!


Looks pretty solid to me. Aesthetically, the only thing you could really do to improve upon what you have is to go with acrylic tubing or copper pipe which is what I intend to do on my next project. Cabling looks clean and tube routing is fine. Maybe some better lighting like some led strips or even a strategically placed ccfl tube.

As far as temps go, that looks really solid. My 4930k at 4.7GHz (1.48V) hits the mid 70C's under full load in P95 and my Titans top out around 45C while benching at max OC (1300MHz at 1.325V).

Btw, sorry for the DP B Neg!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> I brightened them up a bit for you...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's awesome!! Thanks!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looks pretty solid to me. Aesthetically, the only thing you could really do to improve upon what you have is to go with acrylic tubing or copper pipe which is what I intend to do on my next project. Cabling looks clean and tube routing is fine. Maybe some better lighting like some led strips or even a strategically placed ccfl tube.
> 
> As far as temps go, that looks really solid. My 4930k at 4.7GHz (1.48V) hits the mid 70C's under full load in P95 and my Titans top out around 45C while benching at max OC (1300MHz at 1.325V).


Thanks Majin!

I would LOOOVE to do copper tubing. My uncle is a 30 year appliance installation and repair vet and can probably help me do the copper tube bends and sizing one day. I will need to research and ask around as far as the right type of copper tube and size, Also what fittings to use and find a nickle plating joint near me.

I looked around at the lighting online, and the one thing that stood out the most was the Lamptron Spectral UV.... BUUUTT... I can't find it for sale anywhere. Is there something better than that now? I see that some people like the new LED stuff. I really don't want to deal with an inverter, and I don't want anything purple-ish in my case once I have worked everything out.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Well, to be fair, I've been using a BitFenix Recon to control my six NB fans for over two years now and have never had any failures. Now, for some reason I can't actually control the fan speeds (they are either at 100% or off) but each channel is powering two fans and it has never burned out. I've wanted to replace it for a while but other stuff keeps ending up needing my money...


Lol, never had any failures? It seems from what you said, that the fan controller hasn't worked correctly from day one either. Or is it just supposed to be on/off switches??


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm no fan controller expert so I may just be doing something wrong. Point is that the power limitations have not been an issue for me...


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> That's awesome!! Thanks!!


I just noticed you suffer from the same thing I do with the white/black CaseLabs --- you ordered a white FlexBay rad mount which looks good from the outside, but you have that white part on the inside where it should be black. So you either have to order another one in black just to get that 1/2 or paint that part... at least that is what I'm deciding on...


----------



## spikezone2004

Is it normal for a kill coil to become a little discolored than from when you first bought it? Mine seems to have a slight goldish tint to it now


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> The aquacomputer connecter has a set screw that directs the flow to the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> well thats dumb. it makes people look at it and say " you have no cooling on your gpus"...
Click to expand...

Lol


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> I just noticed you suffer from the same thing I do with the white/black CaseLabs --- you ordered a white FlexBay rad mount which looks good from the outside, but you have that white part on the inside where it should be black. So you either have to order another one in black just to get that 1/2 or paint that part... at least that is what I'm deciding on...


Ahh yes... true... I guess I will need to do that at some point. And paint the inside of the top bay cover without getting any on the outside. Probably won't be bothered with it until the acrylic / copper upgrade.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quick questions for my OCN peeps...
> 
> The Caselabs SM8 came just before Christmas. It's nothing new under the sun. And sadly, I didn't do a build log because I am to busy to take all the pics and make all the notes that would make up a proper build log. But here it is anyway. And like many of us in here, I do not have great lighting for pics in this room, so once I am done with this part of the build (going acrylic later), I will take some outdoors pics since that seems to have the best results outside of a studio-like environments... which is not gonna happen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the first question: What sticks out as something I could do better with this build??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are really bad pics... so sorry about that. The extra connector in the front is there to power the FC because I forgot to order the 24in 4 pin molex extension.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Secondly, here are my temps so far. Are these in line with what I should expect? The rads are the Quiet series, and not the high performance versions. This rig is SUPER quiet so that worked out perfectly. I am running the 480 in p/p at around 750 RPM, and the front rad is using the new white Corsair AF LED in Push only since the the SP's are not in LED. Hopefully, that changes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran Prime95 for only 15 minutes but once it hit these temps, it never went over 55C for 13 of the 16 total minutes... This includes running Unigine Heaven 4 in 5760 x 1080.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if I should be running anything else or if this pretty much tell us what we need to know.
> 
> Lastly, I need to know what lighting would be best to show this thing off a bit. I bought a few sleeved NZXT dual 3mm 4pin molex and they are already dim. Did I do something wrong aside from buying the wrong quality? They seem to start off really bright and then just start getting really dim after only a few days. Usually one worse than the other.
> 
> I see that some of you are using some really nice 3rd party non-custom lighting. Can I get some guidance on this?
> 
> Oh... and I am using the EK Blood Red juice. It stays clean, and if the system is flushed really well beforehand, looks amazing for months with Primochill Advanced LRT. Is anyone using this with UV lighting?
> As always... thanks everyone. Good to be back!






Not just talking about the loop, here's what I'd change:


Ditch the L.E.D fan and put dedicated internal lighting in.
Change the sleeving for the PCI cables.
Take out the big EK bridge and do individual acrylic tubes when you switch to rigid lines (those box style bridges bother me)
Otherwise, a great looking SM8









-Zepp


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Is it normal for a kill coil to become a little discolored than from when you first bought it? Mine seems to have a slight goldish tint to it now


Could just be tarnish but it can also be pulling copper from somewhere...

What are your blocks made of?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> those gpus wont be cooled. you have water flowing in the right and flowing straght back out the right. move the top or bottom tube to the left.


The flow is reversed through the second block compared to the first. Don't all serial connector blocks work that way?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Currently running an EX 360/30mm in pull intake....Wanted to go push/pull but the prices of 3 extra fans are just $10-12 cheaper than getting an Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm,just wondering what would be the best deal....? Geeting the extra fans for p/p or getting the xt45 rad for just push or pull....


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello folks,

I searched like a .... on the web for this without much success.

I'm busy setting up my first custom loop, coming from a h100.
What I would like to have some info on is how much wattage radiators can dissipate...

Loop will be cpu only for now cooling my fx-8320.

How much wattage will a UT60 or Monsta 240 rad dissipate with Gently Typhoon 1850 fans running at around 1000-1200 rpm?
The rest of the loop will be a d5 655 pump, Raystorm cpu block and a Bitspower 150ml Tube res.


----------



## kpoeticg

Here's a chart @JackNaylorPE put together based off info he found off martins website. Seems to be fairly accurate



The numbers are the watts dissipated


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Does the same rule apply for all rads...For example an Ex 360-30mm rad...?


----------



## kpoeticg

I wouldn't consider that chart exactly written in stone for all rads, but i think it gives you a good general idea. For instance, martin himself said P/P on EX360 > Push on AX360


----------



## Maximus Knight

"Gently Typhoon"

>Much QT

Me gusta


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

In your opinion which would be better, the Ex 360 p/p or alphacool XT45 in push or pull...?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New XSPC fittings.


----------



## Striker36

those are pretty...... too bad they wont work for my build haha.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Hey peeps thought I'd share this with you guys even tho it isn't directly related to LC but hey it powers your pumps


















Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Hey peeps thought I'd share this with you guys even tho it isn't directly related to LC but hey it powers your pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


That is neat!


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> And just asking a question will never make you a moron. What you do with the answers to the question does.


It's been about a week since I have been on here, catching up on my 1200+ missed posts. This just made my day!!!!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Here's a chart @JackNaylorPE
> put together based off info he found off martins website. Seems to be fairly accurate
> 
> 
> The numbers are the watts dissipated


Thank you sir.
+rep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> "Gently Typhoon"
> 
> >Much QT
> 
> Me gusta


Hahaha.
That's a typo....

But it does sound funny.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> In your opinion which would be better, the Ex 360 p/p or alphacool XT45 in push or pull...?


XT45 all the way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New XSPC fittings.


Oehh, pretty.









Might look into getting these.
Although I still love the look of the Moonson's...


----------



## CroakV

Yeah, XSPC is falling into the Bitspower trap...I went with Monsoon fittings in large part because there's no freaking logo on every piece. Heck, there's no freaking logos on _any_ of the fittings they sell. Gotta respect that.


----------



## pc-illiterate

you gotta remember though, without a logo or name, its hard to tell which fittings people are using. its all about brand recognition and free marketing. do you have a doubt which company made the monsoon fittings without seeing a logo/name?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you gotta remember though, without a logo or name, its hard to tell which fittings people are using. its all about brand recognition and free marketing. do you have a doubt which company made the monsoon fittings without seeing a logo/name?


Well, no.

The only fittings that look that way are Monsoon's.









But guys, I still don't get it.
What if I have a radiator who dissipates lets say, 150 watts. And my cpu puts out 170 watts...
Would the cpu overheat? I have searched allot on the web but I cannot find clear info on this.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Well, no.
> 
> The only fittings that look that way are Monsoon's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But guys, I still don't get it.
> What if I have a radiator who dissipates lets say, 150 watts. And my cpu puts out 170 watts...
> Would the cpu overheat? I have searched allot on the web but I cannot find clear info on this.


The key here is that the radiator dissipates 150 watts at a specific deltaT of (say) 10 degrees.
If more than 150 watts is pumped into the system the water temperature will start to rise. At this point the deltaT will thus get larger as well, and therefore the radiator will be able to transfer more heat onto the passing air.

Bottom line: It won't cause your CPU to overheat, it will only run 1 or 2 degrees hotter.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you gotta remember though, without a logo or name, its hard to tell which fittings people are using. its all about brand recognition and free marketing. do you have a doubt which company made the monsoon fittings without seeing a logo/name?
> 
> 
> 
> Well, no.
> 
> The only fittings that look that way are Monsoon's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *But guys, I still don't get it.
> What if I have a radiator who dissipates lets say, 150 watts. And my cpu puts out 170 watts...
> Would the cpu overheat?* I have searched allot on the web but I cannot find clear info on this.
Click to expand...

When you see a chart, as above, where there are amounts of heat dissipation in watts for various fan speeds, that's against a reference of the outlet water being a specified amount of degrees hotter than the ambient air. . . . Usually 10C

As the water gets hotter than the air by increasing amounts, such that the gradient between the water and air increases, then the rad will dissipate more watts at that higher gradient.

In other words, if your CPU is a 170W heat load, and the rad dissipates 150W at a 10C gradient, then to dissipate the 170W heat load, the gradient will rise, and the water will end up at maybe 13 to 15C above the ambient air.

Hope that helps,

Darlene

Ninja'd by the Jetskyer


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you gotta remember though, without a logo or name, its hard to tell which fittings people are using. its all about brand recognition and free marketing. do you have a doubt which company made the monsoon fittings without seeing a logo/name?


I don't mind logos on the big components (look at my rig pics) but even in my modest loop there's 9 rotaries and 9 compression fittings visible. That's 18 more logos staring at me if I were using Bitspower, EK or XSPC parts. That's a lot of logos breaking up my desired aesthetics. To XSPC's credit, their text logo is subdued (it's almost invisible on their old rotaries) and definitely more tolerable in mass quantities than Bitspower's weird, garish bad tattoo logo.

And in case you were wondering about the red XSPC logo plates in my build, those fit better with my red and black theme than the white painted XSPC logos they're covering up. Plus..ooh shiny!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> The key here is that the radiator dissipates 150 watts at a specific deltaT of (say) 10 degrees.
> If more than 150 watts is pumped into the system the water temperature will start to rise. At this point the deltaT will thus get larger as well, and therefore the radiator will be able to transfer more heat onto the passing air.
> 
> Bottom line: It won't cause your CPU to overheat, it will only run 1 or 2 degrees hotter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> When you see a chart, as above, where there are amounts of heat dissipation in watts for various fan speeds, that's against a reference of the outlet water being a specified amount of degrees hotter than the ambient air. . . . Usually 10C
> 
> As the water gets hotter than the air by increasing amounts, such that the gradient between the water and air increases, then the rad will dissipate more watts at that higher gradient.
> 
> In other words, if your CPU is a 170W heat load, and the rad dissipates 150W at a 10C gradient, then to dissipate the 170W heat load, the gradient will rise, and the water will end up at maybe 13 to 15C above the ambient air.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Ninja'd by the Jetskyer


Thanks, that does clear things up a bit.
I did read on the web that it is best to have a deltaT of 5 to 10c.

But does it hurt to run the water hotter? Ambient will mostly be around 18-20c here, with peaks to around 30c in the summer.

I am wanting to know if it is worth it for me to grab a 360 over a 240 rad when I only cool my cpu...
I do have two AP-15's so these can be re-used, which saves a bit on money. Buying a 360 over a 240 will cost me around 20-25 euro more for the rad + ~14 for another AP-15 fan.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Could just be tarnish but it can also be pulling copper from somewhere...
> 
> What are your blocks made of?


I believe both block and rad are copper (its the rx240 Xspc 720 rev4 kit) I took the cpu block apart last night and cleaned it wasn't much gunk in there hopefully I put it back right couldn't find a diagram for it anywhere. But could be pulling it from rad

On the Xspc fitting subject. If those came in colors that'd look cool like black and white black and red with that middle part where the logo is being the other color or something


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Thanks, that does clear things up a bit.
> I did read on the web that it is best to have a deltaT of 5 to 10c.
> 
> But does it hurt to run the water hotter? Ambient will mostly be around 18-20c here, with peaks to around 30c in the summer.
> 
> I am wanting to know if it is worth it for me to grab a 360 over a 240 rad when I only cool my cpu...
> I do have two AP-15's so these can be re-used, which saves a bit on money. Buying a 360 over a 240 will cost me around 20-25 euro more for the rad + ~14 for another AP-15 fan.


If it was me I'd definitely go for the 360 if you can house it inside your case. You'll end up with a rig that's either more silent or has cooler components


----------



## Ragsters

My 3770k is running kinda hot under load. Just played Bioshock Infinite for like an hour and my max CPU temp was close to 60C. Right now ambient temps are like 21C. I am going to get a 480 rad next week but in the mean time are my high temps a result of only having a 360 rad for my video card, mobo blocks and CPU?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> If it was me I'd definitely go for the 360 if you can house it inside your case. You'll end up with a rig that's either more silent or has cooler components


That's kinda my problem.
My 650D won't let me house the 360 inside the case unless I remove all the 5.25" bays and put it in the front.

Well, I will just wait a little longer for the budget to allow me to buy a 360 and just mount it on top of the case on it's side with a rad stand. Will be going with a 360 Monsta right away then for the marginal price difference.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> My 3770k is running kinda hot under load. Just played Bioshock Infinite for like an hour and my max CPU temp was close to 60C. Right now ambient temps are like 21C. I am going to get a 480 rad next week but in the mean time are my high temps a result of only having a 360 rad for my video card, mobo blocks and CPU?


comparing cpu temp to ambient temps is pretty pointless. you need to compare ambient to water temps or know what your previous cpu to ambient was.
you can add 100000 x120 rad space and still have your cpu at 63* at load.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> My 3770k is running kinda hot under load. Just played Bioshock Infinite for like an hour and my max CPU temp was close to 60C. Right now ambient temps are like 21C. I am going to get a 480 rad next week but in the mean time are my high temps a result of only having a 360 rad for my video card, mobo blocks and CPU?


How much of an OC you running?

Upper 50s aren't hideous if you are running a decent OC. Increasing rad space will definitely help tho...however it may or may not be a huge difference depending on many factors


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That's kinda my problem.
> My 650D won't let me house the 360 inside the case unless I remove all the 5.25" bays and put it in the front.
> 
> Well, I will just wait a little longer for the budget to allow me to buy a 360 and just mount it on top of the case on it's side with a rad stand. Will be going with a 360 Monsta right away then for the marginal price difference.


Well, that's why I mentioned 'inside'. If you don't mind getting rid of the 5.25" bays I'd do that, otherwise just go with the 240 rad. External rads give me the heebeegeebees, that's why I'm modding two rads for my own build just so I can fit 3x 180mm inside an old powermac G5 case.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Well, that's why I mentioned 'inside'. If you don't mind getting rid of the 5.25" bays I'd do that, otherwise just go with the 240 rad. External rads give me the heebeegeebees, that's why I'm modding two rads for my own build just so I can fit 3x 180mm inside an old powermac G5 case.


Completely agree with ya. I'd much much rather have to settle on a 240 to keep it internal than put anything external


----------



## LunaP

Omg after 3 days I finally got acrylic down a bit. Ive leveled up from a lvl 1 bender to a lvl 5 I'd say. With th amount of lvls being much higher lol. Pics after I get on my comp

Heres tge first attempt and draft though the cpu to gpu came out horrible but was so frustrated I just went with it till I took a break came back and started measuring out better. I ripped it out afterwards though as it was embarassing.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Well, that's why I mentioned 'inside'. If you don't mind getting rid of the 5.25" bays I'd do that, otherwise just go with the 240 rad. External rads give me the heebeegeebees, that's why I'm modding two rads for my own build just so I can fit 3x 180mm inside an old powermac G5 case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Completely agree with ya. I'd much much rather have to settle on a 240 to keep it internal than put anything external


Have to agree on you there.

Still hard to decide








Modding the 650D is doable, and I rarely use a dvd drive these days anyway. But modding the case would leave me the task to make the front of the case a full intake....
You guys know the front of the 650D, right?



Placing the rad won't be the hardest part, maybe I can even mount it to the existing sides of the 5.25" bays.
But the tricky part is how to make the existing bay covers into a filter....

Any ideas? I know they sell the 650D front filter separate, but I can't find it where I live(Netherlands).


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Have to agree on you there.
> 
> Still hard to decide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modding the 650D is doable, and I rarely use a dvd drive these days anyway. But modding the case would leave me the task to make the front of the case a full intake....
> You guys know the front of the 650D, right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Placing the rad won't be the hardest part, maybe I can even mount it to the existing sides of the 5.25" bays.
> But the tricky part is how to make the existing bay covers into a filter....
> 
> Any ideas? I know they sell the 650D front filter separate, but I can't find it where I live(Netherlands).


Maybe just get mesh bay covers?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16011/ele-1086/Akust_525_Universal_Mesh_Bay_Cover_-_Black_CM02-0001-AKS.html?tl=g1c143


----------



## pc-illiterate

replace the entire fron with a single piece of mesh cut to fit all custom like, just as a modded top panel would be.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> comparing cpu temp to ambient temps is pretty pointless. you need to compare ambient to water temps or know what your previous cpu to ambient was.
> you can add 100000 x120 rad space and still have your cpu at 63* at load.


The good news is that my GPU temps have been cut in half but my CPU temps are around the same as with air (Corsair H60).


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Maybe just get mesh bay covers?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16011/ele-1086/Akust_525_Universal_Mesh_Bay_Cover_-_Black_CM02-0001-AKS.html?tl=g1c143












Thanks for the ideas guys. Will be awhile before I have the funds to complete the loop but I am not really sure what to do.

The full mesh front will be a bit extreme as that will be both expensive and allot of work. The front usb and power/reset buttons/led's will have to be placed in the mesh.

Maybe I will just stick with the 240 rad.
It will most likely still be allot better then the h100 and quieter.

If I go with the 360 + mods and all that are needed the total price of the loop will be about 413 euro(561 USD) for a cpu only loop.








240 loop will be about 318 euro(432 USD).
Comparing a 240 UT60 loop with a 360 Monsta loop. D5 655 pump, ek x-top, bits res(150ml) and Raystorm cpu block.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the ideas guys. Will be awhile before I have the funds to complete the loop but I am not really sure what to do.
> 
> The full mesh front will be a bit extreme as that will be both expensive and allot of work. The front usb and power/reset buttons/led's will have to be placed in the mesh.
> 
> Maybe I will just stick with the 240 rad.
> It will most likely still be allot better then the h100 and quieter.
> 
> If I go with the 360 + mods and all that are needed the total price of the loop will be about 413 euro(561 USD) for a cpu only loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 240 loop will be about 318 euro(432 USD).
> Comparing a 240 UT60 loop with a 360 Monsta loop. D5 655 pump, ek x-top, bits res(150ml) and Raystorm cpu block.


You could look into DemciFlex filters, they can be custom made according to your design and it will (obviously) double as filter which will help keep your rad clean and performance consistent. They really don't charge a premium at all and I bet you'll have the filter you need shipped to you for under 30 dollars.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> You could look into DemciFlex filters, they can be custom made according to your design and it will (obviously) double as filter which will help keep your rad clean and performance consistent. They really don't charge a premium at all and I bet you'll have the filter you need shipped to you for under 30 dollars.


Yeah those are pretty neat.
I ordered a custom on to fit the top intake of my 650D half a year ago or so...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Those prices are why I shopped around for deals on new and used components


----------



## brandon6199

My rig as she currently stands...



I'll have the second GTX 780 Ti in there on Friday (hopefully)


----------



## LunaP

So yeah only took about 18-21 feet of tube, and I'm finally getting somewhere, need to redo the resbay -> restube run and extend it out further since I"ll be putting a blur ray down below and don't want it to hit it and make it look cleaner.

Loving the monsoon kit though makes bends MUCH easier to do, as some areas I still do by hand. Gonna use X's idea and mount some of them to a smaller board as that would definitely help w/ straighter angles. Lemme know what you guys think, also camera angle is tilted a bit so don't let that throw you off.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys and gals,is there a downside to using pwm fans with a normal fan controller (Lamptron FC5 V2 Fan Controller)....?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So yeah only took about 18-21 feet of tube, and I'm finally getting somewhere, need to redo the resbay -> restube run and extend it out further since I"ll be putting a blur ray down below and don't want it to hit it and make it look cleaner.
> 
> Loving the monsoon kit though makes bends MUCH easier to do, as some areas I still do by hand. Gonna use X's idea and mount some of them to a smaller board as that would definitely help w/ straighter angles. Lemme know what you guys think, also camera angle is tilted a bit so don't let that throw you off.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good but I'm thinking if you cut a little off the length here where I drew an arrow it will make the tube look better because the vertical run will be more plumb.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Looks good but I'm thinking if you cut a little off the length here where I drew an arrow it will make the tube look better because the vertical run will be more plumb.


Yeah that's the one I'm completely redoing, since I realized if I add a Bluray drive below it'd bump the end so gonna extend it further like so.



Gonna probably do both drives in there.


----------



## stickg1

Gotcha, give your self some extra length on the two horizontal ends that attach to fittings because being that close to the slot in the mobo tray and the reservoir, it's going to have to be almost perfectly vertical or it will be very noticeable. If you give yourself some extra to play with you can trim it more than once if needed.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So yeah only took about 18-21 feet of tube, and I'm finally getting somewhere, need to redo the resbay -> restube run and extend it out further since I"ll be putting a blur ray down below and don't want it to hit it and make it look cleaner.
> 
> Loving the monsoon kit though makes bends MUCH easier to do, as some areas I still do by hand. Gonna use X's idea and mount some of them to a smaller board as that would definitely help w/ straighter angles. Lemme know what you guys think, also camera angle is tilted a bit so don't let that throw you off.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image


The kit definitely does help getting perfect bends. If you haven't already, be sure to watch the video how-tos by Geno from Monsoon for the Hardline kit. There's more than a few good tips there for how to use the kits to their full potential.

B Neg posted links to the vids in the first post of the Acrylic pipebending 101 thread ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/


----------



## royce5950

I'm not sure if they make external Blu ray drives or burners but I'm sure they do and that could be I'm more sleek option in regards to the layout of your case.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I'm not sure if they make external Blu ray drives or burners but I'm sure they do and that could be I'm more sleek option in regards to the layout of your case.


My only optical drive is external because I use a disc maybe once or twice a year and don't want the bulky device or cables cluttering up my case. But my case is a mid tower so space is much more valuable when watercooling.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know lg and asus make external bluray burners


----------



## pc-illiterate

you can also get an external drive converter. i put my dvd drive in it.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I'm not sure if they make external Blu ray drives or burners but I'm sure they do and that could be I'm more sleek option in regards to the layout of your case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My only optical drive is external because I use a disc maybe once or twice a year and don't want the bulky device or cables cluttering up my case. But my case is a mid tower so space is much more valuable when watercooling.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you can also get an external drive converter. i put my dvd drive in it.


Yeah I thought about it but I guess I'm still old skool and like to keep it, maybe eventually I'll cut away from it, for now I have a ton of old japanese games and other dvd's etc that I play and or mess with + not yet ready for that change yet, WC was a huge step as I had JUST grabbed an h100i and returned it after someone nearly bit my head off for grabbing the RIVEBE and 4960X lolol.

Fixed the line, luckily was about to flip it and shave down a bit.



Can you guys post or pm me some pics of your external setups, I may consider it down the line.


----------



## MiiX

You'd need more than a EK XTX360 to cool 2x 780's + 4770K, right? no harsh overclocking, lower voltages only if the chip(s) allow it.

Incase some of you know something about TEC's please give me a hand here


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah I thought about it but I guess I'm still old skool and like to keep it, maybe eventually I'll cut away from it, for now I have a ton of old japanese games and other dvd's etc that I play and or mess with + not yet ready for that change yet, WC was a huge step as I had JUST grabbed an h100i and returned it after someone nearly bit my head off for grabbing the RIVEBE and 4960X lolol.
> 
> Fixed the line, luckily was about to flip it and shave down a bit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: 8<
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guys post or pm me some pics of your external setups, I may consider it down the line.


That's perfect! Very nicely done!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I wouldn't want any external drives cluttering up my desk. Internal drives tend to be faster / more reliable. Then again, we use our disc drives almost every day as all of our computers serve as a gaming rig, an HTPC (blu-ray player / DVR / network server) and a workstation.


----------



## wermad

I only had one slot left for my controller, so the dvd-rw I have went in an external kit using usb 3.0. Can't run games off it (classic w/ dvd discs







). But does play movies and reads install discs just fine. I seldom use it so eventually I may just shelve it.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's perfect! Very nicely done!


Ty!

I have 2 more GPU's to put in but theyr'e in my current rig that I"m posting with, thinking of taking 1 more out and putting it in the 3rd GPU spot as to leave a gap for the remaining card that way I can finish the rest of the tubing run and then easily add in the last bit once I put the last GPU part in the center. Is that something recommended or do people normally do all at once?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I wouldn't want any external drives cluttering up my desk. Internal drives tend to be faster / more reliable. Then again, we use our disc drives almost every day as all of our computers serve as a gaming rig, an HTPC (blu-ray player / DVR / network server) and a workstation.


Yeah pretty much this ^ though I could always rig one to the back of my monitor too







and have it out the side giving the impression I have an ALL-IN-ONE on one of them lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ty!
> 
> I have 2 more GPU's to put in but theyr'e in my current rig that I"m posting with, thinking of taking 1 more out and putting it in the 3rd GPU spot as to leave a gap for the remaining card that way I can finish the rest of the tubing run and then easily add in the last bit once I put the last GPU part in the center. Is that something recommended or do people normally do all at once?
> Yeah pretty much this ^ though I could always rig one to the back of my monitor too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and have it out the side giving the impression I have an ALL-IN-ONE on one of them lol.


integrated into the desk? Also a good idea for A6


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> integrated into the desk? Also a good idea for A6


I saw a desk mod that made me WANT to do it but I need to wait till I have a bigger room, I LOVE the rigs that it has the clear window into (from a top down looking) of the insides and runnings, and the power button was rigged as a sep button ( not sure if that was smart or not ) def sexy though.

Curious if anyone has some builds like that here, as I only see them on google images.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> You'd need more than a EK XTX360 to cool 2x 780's + 4770K, right? no harsh overclocking, lower voltages only if the chip(s) allow it.
> 
> Incase some of you know something about TEC's please give me a hand here


That's correct,the rules are 1x120 rad per block/core plus an additional 120 rad (480mm of rad space)....So you need at least 2x240 (480mm),even better 1x360 and 1x240 (600mm of rad space) for a little headroom....


----------



## John Freeman

hey im looking for an opinion on this loop. Can any pros tell me if there is a better/cleaner way to route this loop?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> That's correct,the rules are 1x120 rad per block/core plus an additional 120 rad (480mm of rad space)....So you need at least 2x240 (480mm),even better 1x360 and 1x240 (600mm of rad space) for a little headroom....


That's what I taught... Might try fitting a XT240, when and if it's happening.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> hey im looking for an opinion on this loop. Can any pros tell me if there is a better/cleaner way to route this loop?


That's basically how I will have my loop, except I only have a top rad and CPU only right now, will be adding front and gpu later. It looks good although I put the top rad as intake.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So yeah only took about 18-21 feet of tube, and I'm finally getting somewhere, need to redo the resbay -> restube run and extend it out further since I"ll be putting a blur ray down below and don't want it to hit it and make it look cleaner.
> 
> Loving the monsoon kit though makes bends MUCH easier to do, as some areas I still do by hand. Gonna use X's idea and mount some of them to a smaller board as that would definitely help w/ straighter angles. Lemme know what you guys think, also camera angle is tilted a bit so don't let that throw you off.



Hey Luna,looking good so far..Just one question.Is there any function to having a second res?I'm sorry I just don't see the point if you already have a duel bay res/pump.If you just keep the
XSPC photon tube/pump and sell the bay res,which you can't see anyway you could install your blu-ray player in your drive bay.Just my


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> hey im looking for an opinion on this loop. Can any pros tell me if there is a better/cleaner way to route this loop?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you want best temps, I'd say put that top rad as intake. But the difference won't be massive.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I saw a desk mod that made me WANT to do it but I need to wait till I have a bigger room, I LOVE the rigs that it has the clear window into (from a top down looking) of the insides and runnings, and the power button was rigged as a sep button ( not sure if that was smart or not ) def sexy though.
> 
> Curious if anyone has some builds like that here, as I only see them on google images.


I'm working on a desk build like what you are talking about. I've finally started making holes for tubing and cable pass-throughs, but still have a long way to go. Still undecided if I was to do one big sheet of glass or cut a window into a wooden desktop. But here is a rough mockup of the plan


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> 
> Hey Luna,looking good so far..Just one question.Is there any function to having a second res?I'm sorry I just don't see the point if you already have a duel bay res/pump.If you just keep the
> XSPC photon tube/pump and sell the bay res,which you can't see anyway you could install your blu-ray player in your drive bay.Just my


Normally yeah, but for the theme I'm incorporating into my rig its required, + looks great aesthetically though later I'll swap out the long holders for the resbay and with short mounts. I'll post updated pics and or check out my build log for more updates on this as it unfolds. I'll post the finished version here once I"m done though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm working on a desk build like what you are talking about. I've finally started making holes for tubing and cable pass-throughs, but still have a long way to go. Still undecided if I was to do one big sheet of glass or cut a window into a wooden desktop. But here is a rough mockup of the plan


OOOH very nice is there a build log link or is it already in your sig?


----------



## morencyam

No build log yet. I'm taking my time on this build. Probably going to wait til I start assembling everything to make a log. Been taking pictures along the way though so I definitely plan on putting something together. I still need to get some sort of glass to function as the desktop/window, and who knows when that will happen.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Well, no.
> 
> The only fittings that look that way are Monsoon's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But guys, I still don't get it.
> What if I have a radiator who dissipates lets say, 150 watts. And my cpu puts out 170 watts...
> Would the cpu overheat? I have searched allot on the web but I cannot find clear info on this.


Everything in ya PC radiates heat...... the chartes are designed around a basis of having a delta T of 10C AND 100% full power all the time.

But .... nothing, even torture tests pull 100% load on every component all the time. So for a loop with CPU, twin GFX cards, MoBo and pump all adding heat to the system, ya pick a % of that max load and try and coll that with the rads.... for an production / gaming box I'd say use 60% as a minimum......if just using 1 item like a CPU, I'd wanna be up to at least 85%. The rest will be radiator by the radiator shroud, reservoir, tubing, and everything else.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I wouldn't consider that chart exactly written in stone for all rads, but i think it gives you a good general idea. For instance, martin himself said P/P on EX360 > Push on AX360


Chart is based upon Alphacool rads and does not account for example, for the smaller dead space of 1400mm behind fan motors so 140s 'shud be' slightly higher. Must also keep in mind that everything in puter radiates heat not just rads so rads don't and shouldn't be expected to do the whole job.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys and gals,is there a downside to using pwm fans with a normal fan controller (Lamptron FC5 V2 Fan Controller)....?


I've seen a few people say it's bad for the PWM electronics to try to control it via voltage. May depend on the fan though.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Hey Luna,looking good so far..Just one question.Is there any function to having a second res?I'm sorry I just don't see the point if you already have a duel bay res/pump.If you just keep the
> XSPC photon tube/pump and sell the bay res,which you can't see anyway you could install your blu-ray player in your drive bay.Just my


That's just the Photon 270, sans integrated pump. And I'm just guessing here, but with a bay pump/res and rigid tubing, it's gonna be a ***** to do the usual trick of sliding the res out to fill, so that Photon serves more of a purpose than just bling and extra fluid volume, plus there's already the sunk cost of the bay res so he's probably all like "Meh, I already own this, might as well make it work".

That said, if that's a D5 res, I'd consider taking it out, removing the pump, getting a good looking D5 top with baseplate (the $30ish XSPC or Alphacool acetel tops would look nice and inconspicuous with his build), and mounting that in front of the bottom 480, eliminating any chance of the tubing fouling his optical drives, freeing up those two 5.25 bays, _and_ giving him gravity feed down to the pump which will make his life easier come fill and bleed time.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> That's just the *Photon 270, sans integrated pump.* And I'm just guessing here, but with a bay pump/res and rigid tubing, it's gonna be a ***** to do the usual trick of sliding the res out to fill, so that Photon serves more of a purpose than just bling and extra fluid volume, plus there's already the sunk cost of the bay res *so he's probably all like "Meh, I already own this, might as well make it work".*
> 
> *That said, if that's a D5 res*, I'd consider taking it out, removing the pump, getting a good looking D5 top with baseplate (the $30ish XSPC or Alphacool acetel tops would look nice and inconspicuous with his build), and mounting that in front of the bottom 480, eliminating any chance of the tubing fouling his optical drives, freeing up those two 5.25 bays, _and_ giving him gravity feed down to the pump which will make his life easier come fill and bleed time.


Its just at tube res no pump.

I bought it well knowing of everything, as I stated its part of my build theme, which will be shown later. This is required regardless if it had an integrated pump or not I wanted a tube res w/ lighting, was almost tempted to just bypass it and just leave it for aesthetics, but after asking questions a few weeks back found I could still attach it.

It's a D5 res w/ a PWM pump. The pump is pushing water towards the tube res.


----------



## Anoxy

LunaP, where is the PSU mounted with the 480 on bottom like that?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> LunaP, where is the PSU mounted with the 480 on bottom like that?


About 2 inches above the 480 on the bottom of the other side of the case. Give me a few I"ll take a pic, its a mess back there since I haven't gotten to cabling yet lol.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Its just at tube res no pump.
> 
> I bought it well knowing of everything, as I stated its part of my build theme, which will be shown later. This is required regardless if it had an integrated pump or not I wanted a tube res w/ lighting, was almost tempted to just bypass it and just leave it for aesthetics, but after asking questions a few weeks back found I could still attach it.
> 
> It's a D5 res w/ a PWM pump. The pump is pushing water towards the tube res.


I meant taking the D5 out of the bay res, keeping the Photon.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I meant taking the D5 out of the bay res, keeping the Photon.


Well the problem w/ that and I did think the same w/ the bottom left is that regardles the back part of the bay res would hit the fans/RAD so either way it'd have to stay, and I really love the look of the bay res from the front. I plan if I do upgrade in the future to stick a dual MCP335x pump at the bottom left as I could drill out the space to mount it most likely if it fits. FOr now though it'd just be additional runs and with this working unless there's some unforeseen or something I"m unaware of , I wanna get this running, you'll see once I get the remaining parts it, I've got a HUGE draft up for this.









@Anoxy here you go.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> LunaP, where is the PSU mounted with the 480 on bottom like that?


TH10 has two sides. The second smaller chamber has a couple of mounts for power supplies.

Edit: luna got some pics of the psu chamber side.


----------



## waveaddict

It's a D5 res w/ a PWM pump. The pump is pushing water towards the tube res.[/quote]

I thought you were pulling fluid from your tube res to your bay res and then out of your bay res to the rest of your loop.If your Photon tube res has no pump,how is fluid going to move through it?Am I missing something here?


----------



## Anoxy

Oh wow, that is a hell of a build then. Tons of rad space. How are you controlling 24 fans?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> It's a D5 res w/ a PWM pump. The pump is pushing water towards the tube res.


I thought you were pulling fluid from your tube res to your bay res and then out of your bay res to the rest of your loop.If your Photon tube res has no pump,how is fluid going to move through it?Am I missing something here?[/quote]

No clue, didn't think about that, wasn't aware either, so I guess it can't work that way? Worst case I just move the tubing over from the OUT port of the pump to the IN and just have the loop go reverse. Though this changes things completely since it'll now go Tube res-->pump-->480->480->480->GPU1->GPU2->GPU3->480->CPU->Repeat. Unless that shouldn't be an issue?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Oh wow, that is a hell of a build then. Tons of rad space. How are you controlling 24 fans?


32 so far its P/P for all 4 rad's using the aquaeros 6, you can see all the details and pics in my build log if interested.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well the problem w/ that and I did think the same w/ the bottom left is that regardles the back part of the bay res would hit the fans/RAD so either way it'd have to stay, and I really love the look of the bay res from the front. I plan if I do upgrade in the future to stick a dual MCP335x pump at the bottom left as I could drill out the space to mount it most likely if it fits. FOr now though it'd just be additional runs and with this working unless there's some unforeseen or something I"m unaware of , I wanna get this running, you'll see once I get the remaining parts it, I've got a HUGE draft up for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Anoxy here you go.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


We talking about the same thing here? I'm suggesting _ditching_ the bay res _entirely_, taking the pump _out_ if it, and putting it into something like this:



And mounting that down on the floor in that big gap between the 480 and the case. Orient it any way you think looks best, use a 90 degree rotary for the inlet, use the top outlet, and Bob's your uncle in regards to nice clean tubing runs. As I mentioned, you'll also have less issues filling and bleeding than with the way you're setting it up now.

I don't see you actually _needing_ dual D5's in that setup, with just one GPU and CPU block to deal with unless you want the redundancy. As for the bay res, you can always find something else cool to run in the 5.25 bay if you want the front panel bling...a nice fan controller, perhaps, many of which have displays that look downright anime inspired.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I don't mind logos on the big components (look at my rig pics) but even in my modest loop there's 9 rotaries and 9 compression fittings visible. That's 18 more logos staring at me if I were using Bitspower, EK or XSPC parts. *That's a lot of logos breaking up my desired aesthetics.* To XSPC's credit, their text logo is subdued (it's almost invisible on their old rotaries) and definitely more tolerable in mass quantities than Bitspower's weird, garish bad tattoo logo.
> 
> And in case you were wondering about the red XSPC logo plates in my build, those fit better with my red and black theme than the white painted XSPC logos they're covering up. Plus..ooh shiny!


I dunno, the logos don't really bother me. I actually think they add to the aesthetic of my build:


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> We talking about the same thing here? I'm suggesting _ditching_ the bay res _entirely_, taking the pump _out_ if it, and putting it into something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> And mounting that down on the floor in that big gap between the 480 and the case. Orient it any way you think looks best, use a 90 degree rotary for the inlet, use the top outlet, and Bob's your uncle in regards to nice clean tubing runs. As I mentioned, you'll also have less issues filling and bleeding than with the way you're setting it up now.
> 
> I don't see you actually _needing_ dual D5's in that setup, with just one GPU and CPU block to deal with unless you want the redundancy. As for the bay res, you can always find something else cool to run in the 5.25 bay if you want the front panel bling...a nice fan controller, perhaps, many of which have displays that look downright anime inspired.


Yes we're talking about the same thing. Also it's 3 Titans ( not 1), 1 CPU, you can check my rig if you'd like, and no I'm not ditching the resbay, again I bought these parts to go with a theme I'm currently building, I appreciate the criticism but I"m not ditching the resbay. Check my build log if you need to see the parts and theme I"m running.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I dunno, the logos don't really bother me. I actually think they add to the aesthetic of my build:


Looks like Singularity client build NightHawk..


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> In your opinion which would be better, the Ex 360 p/p or alphacool XT45 in push or pull...?


Sorry, i went to sleep after i posted that =P

I'd definitely say XT45 P/P if you can fit it


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> I thought you were pulling fluid from your tube res to your bay res and then out of your bay res to the rest of your loop.If your Photon tube res has no pump,how is fluid going to move through it?Am I missing something here?


A pump always pushes fluid never pulls.


----------



## Ragsters

DP


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Looks like Singularity client build NightHawk..


Haha, its actually more of a combo of Nighthawk and his previous build in the TJ11. Daniel taught me a lot with his YT channel...


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Haha, its actually more of a combo of Nighthawk and his previous build in the TJ11. Daniel taught me a lot with his YT channel...


I learnt alot too


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> A pump always pushes fluid never pulls.


So I'm good then? resbaypump combo-->tube res-> loop ?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So I'm good then? resbaypump combo-->tube res-> loop ?


Yes, you should be ok.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So I'm good then? resbaypump combo-->tube res-> loop ?


You are using two res?????


----------



## WebsterXC

Inexpensive WC'ed build for a friend (90% spare parts):


----------



## DarthBaggins

And we're bleeding the system, now how long is really recommended to properly bleed the system of air ?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And we're bleeding the system, now how long is really recommended to properly bleed the system of air ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol, as long as it takes for the air to leave the system. J/K

It can take anywhere from 20-30 minutes to several hours.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So I'm good then? resbaypump combo-->tube res-> loop ?


Help me out here.How is fluid being pushed through your tube res into your loop with out a pump,just using your bay/res pump as pressure?That would be like turning on your hose full blast and filling an empty trash can.You loose all your pressure in the tube res.


----------



## Striker36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Help me out here.How is fluid being pushed through your tube res into your loop with out a pump,just using your bay/res pump as pressure?That would be like turning on your hose full blast and filling an empty trash can.You loose all your pressure in the tube res.


only till its 100% full. then it would function as any other section of tubing. but still. it seems like kind of a waste imo.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, as long as it takes for the air to leave the system. J/K
> 
> It can take anywhere from 20-30 minutes to several hours.


Lol well not seeing a lot of if any bubbles in my aqua box pro res and cowhide tubing


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol well not seeing a lot of if any bubbles in my aqua box pro res and cowhide tubing


Don't forget to tilt the machine on all different axis to help air escape the loop to the res.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Help me out here.How is fluid being pushed through your tube res into your loop with out a pump,just using your bay/res pump as pressure?That would be like turning on your hose full blast and filling an empty trash can.You loose all your pressure in the tube res.


Sorry I honestly can't answer because I"m not knowledge of this type, I'm only going off of what I"ve been answered here and people have told me I should be fine w/ it. Hopefully someone will explain it further as one person said earlier that the pump should be in push not pull. So I'm going off that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> only till its 100% full. then it would function as any other section of tubing. but still. it seems like kind of a waste imo.


Well I was planning on filling it so I guess that works, people are gonna bash this alot but as long as this setup is allowed/works then hopefully someone will take a 2nd look and understand, I apologize if I"m offending anyone in the preliminary phases.

To all

I appreciate feedback just at the same time questions like " how would that even work, don't you know" vs " That might not work because of x and y or have you considered" since I'm still new to WC and appreciate the info I get, so far most answers if not all have been very helpful.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Don't forget to tilt the machine on all different axis to help air escape the loop to the res.


Quick question,is this done with the machine/rig being on or off...?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

May not be news but Duke at PPCs is a good guy; tossed in the D5 stock outer ring I need no charge in an order I just made. Makes shipping cheaper too to not have to buy whole parts kit...


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I apologize if I"m offending anyone in the preliminary phases.


you dont have to apologize for your loop and what you do with your pc. its yours. too many people wanting to please others in this thread and in life.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Don't forget to tilt the machine on all different axis to help air escape the loop to the res.


Been doing that occasionally, it's been pumping for a few hours as well. I know I need to probably hook up my fan controller to the pump as well so I can have more flow control.


----------



## cyphon

The seconds res will result in a pressure drop as you should expect, however, it is likely a small enough one that it probably will not matter too much to your flow. However, the second res must be completely filled

That being said, I wouldn't use a second res unless there was a really good reason to. Better to not over complicate things


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you dont have to apologize for your loop and what you do with your pc. its yours. too many people wanting to please others in this thread and in life.


Not trying to please anyone,just trying to understand lunaP's method.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Everything in ya PC radiates heat...... the chartes are designed around a basis of having a delta T of 10C AND 100% full power all the time.
> 
> But .... nothing, even torture tests pull 100% load on every component all the time. So for a loop with CPU, twin GFX cards, MoBo and pump all adding heat to the system, ya pick a % of that max load and try and coll that with the rads.... for an production / gaming box I'd say use 60% as a minimum......if just using 1 item like a CPU, I'd wanna be up to at least 85%. The rest will be radiator by the radiator shroud, reservoir, tubing, and everything else.


Alright thanks.

I will stick to a 240 rad for now then to save on the costs and work.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quick question,is this done with the machine/rig being on or off...?


Do it gently with the machine on so it pumps the bubbles through to the res. Even if you can't see whether it is bled or not you should be able to hear it, once it stops making noise then you are good to go. But it'll still probably flush tiny bubbles through for a while, even after you've bled it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah figured it would have the occasional air bubble for a while, just glad I finally have it up and running under water,


----------



## Pimphare

Well just took my first shot at acrylic bending.







Needless to say it was less than anything good. I'm getting kinda nervous about this now. lol
Time to watch some tutorials and whatnot. Sure am glad I bought extra tubing for screw ups!


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Well just took my first shot at acrylic bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say it was less than anything good. I'm getting kinda nervous about this now. lol
> Time to watch some tutorials and whatnot. Sure am glad I bought extra tubing for screw ups!


exactly what I did, bought double that what my "needs" are and in the end I ended up using almost all of it coz I had to experience it first hand to know exactly how it feels like when bending them, specially the bend I wanted to do connecting from the CPU to my pump/res isn't so easy to do.

Anyways I did update my rig from 7970 to 290X and had to update my tubing.. Got some updated pics up =]



http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1058261/2013-rig-updated-switched-from-hd7970-to-r9-290x#


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Well just took my first shot at acrylic bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say it was less than anything good. I'm getting kinda nervous about this now. lol
> Time to watch some tutorials and whatnot. Sure am glad I bought extra tubing for screw ups!


It's tricky at first but you will get the hang of it and be a pro in no time


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sorry I honestly can't answer because I"m not knowledge of this type, I'm only going off of what I"ve been answered here and people have told me I should be fine w/ it. Hopefully someone will explain it further as one person said earlier that the pump should be in push not pull. So I'm going off that.
> Well I was planning on filling it so I guess that works, people are gonna bash this alot but as long as this setup is allowed/works then hopefully someone will take a 2nd look and understand, I apologize if I"m offending anyone in the preliminary phases.
> 
> To all
> 
> I appreciate feedback just at the same time questions like " how would that even work, don't you know" vs " That might not work because of x and y or have you considered" since I'm still new to WC and appreciate the info I get, so far most answers if not all have been very helpful.


The order of your loop really doesn't make a difference, all that you should be aware of is that you have to be able to fill the bay-res directly.
Just filling your tube-res and start the pump will do nothing but damage the pump since it will be running dry,

Since you're using hard-tubing you definitely won't be able to slide the res a bit forward to fill it, so you need to find another way as to how to go about that.
If your res has multiple ports on the back (so more than just one in and one out) you could use the spare IN port to attatch a (soft) tube which you can elevate and in this way fill your bay-res. Once your loop is filled completely you can remove the tube and close off that port.
If your bay-res only has one IN port and one OUT you'd need to add a T-fitting on the IN-port so you can again attatch a tube. Be aware that you'd also need either a ball-valve or QDC since water will otherwise be gushing out again once you remove your fill-line. (this could also be a problem with the first option)

I could be missing something but I'm afraid these are your only two options to fill your bay-res and thus fill your loop.

Although.. If you have enough room between the top of your res and the top of your case you might be able to connect a tube to the fill-hole of the res. These are mostly not standard G1/4 holes so you might need to make your own..

It's tricky, but definitely do-able.

Oh right, there's a fourth option. I believe you have alphacool rads so plenty of possibilities to connect with those. You'd need to be able to shut off one of the lines of the rad (ball-valve) and connect a tank with distilled that can be slightly pressurized to one of the spare ports of your rad. (again a way to shutoff is needed, either QDC or ball-valve)
Only thing left to do then is open an end-fitting (on the non-rad size of the ball-valve) and start pumping in the water. It will pass through your whole look and fill every cavity with water.

Good luck!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It's tricky at first but you will get the hang of it and be a pro in no time


Thanks for the reassurance man.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> Anyways I did update my rig from 7970 to 290X and had to update my tubing.. Got some updated pics up =]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1058261/2013-rig-updated-switched-from-hd7970-to-r9-290x#


Nice lookin` rig you have there! Very interesting layout.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

is 2x 840mm radiators (aquacomputer) enough to cool 2 780ti's and 2 Xeons passively?


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice lookin` rig you have there! Very interesting layout.


Thanks, had to make it work. Had some problems encountered when I finally got all the watercooling stuff, front rad don't fit so I had to bore out the pre-drilled holes in the case to make em bigger to fit the rads up front. and I planned to put the res/pump right on the bay area but had to put it on that back with a mount coz the res/pump was taller than I thought it would be.

In the end I was able to make it work, that tubing connecting the CPU block to the res was the thing that gave me the most headache of them all, hard to do two consecutive bends in a row.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> is 2x 840mm radiators (aquacomputer) enough to cool 2 780ti's and 2 Xeons passively?


Completely passive even at full load would be very much of a challenge and completely dependent of how you set them up inside/outside of your case.
Putting a few fans on them that are normally off and only turn on once the watertemperature reaches a certain level will ensure that you won't be having boiling hot water in your loop over time..
You could of course go and calculate how much heat they can passively dispatch but you have to remember these aren't designed for passive usage. The fins are modified in such way to ensure turbulent flow over them, but this drastically reduces natural convection.

So at low heat loads you'll be fine, with 1000watts going through the system I highly doubt it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> is 2x 840mm radiators (aquacomputer) enough to cool 2 780ti's and 2 Xeons passively?


Perhaps,depending on case airflow and OC.

These are the AMS rads you are thinking about?


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *top tip for hard acrylic tube*: don't mix imperial w/ metric or vice verse. Its either 3/8" or 10mm size. You can't interchange both unlike traditional nylon tube.
> 
> There are some push fittings for 3/8" and Phobya makes some push fittings for 10mm.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-In-Male-Fittings-3-8-OD-x-1-4-BSPP-G-Thread-10-PC-/260453196642?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ca4386362
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html
> 
> As far as compression like Primochill Ghost (1/2", not 12 or 13mm), I have not seen any for either size.


Yeah the sizes can be pretty confusing with the mixmash of metric and imperial measurements. Took me a while to figure it out. Got my tubing and fittings laying here and it fits


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Completely passive even at full load would be very much of a challenge and completely dependent of how you set them up inside/outside of your case.
> Putting a few fans on them that are normally off and only turn on once the watertemperature reaches a certain level will ensure that you won't be having boiling hot water in your loop over time..
> You could of course go and calculate how much heat they can passively dispatch but you have to remember these aren't designed for passive usage. The fins are modified in such way to ensure turbulent flow over them, but this drastically reduces natural convection.
> 
> So at low heat loads you'll be fine, with 1000watts going through the system I highly doubt it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Perhaps,depending on case airflow and OC.
> 
> These are the AMS rads you are thinking about?


yes these are the AMS, I am looking to use them in a desk lying flat so that the air flows bottom to top, if I can get away with passive it would save me a few hundred quid on fans


----------



## EnigmaMH

My first costum watercooling loop.
It has it's flaws, but it's not done yet. I made this in a 10 hour session yesterday after work, basicly working on it from I got home till I went to bed.
I still need to pain the Fan rings, bleed the loop entirely, some proper lighting (Tried green, but it looked horrid in my honest opinion, so I'll try and put in some white LEDs see if it creates a better looking rig) In due time I'll add another CPU or two, but for now it'll stay as is, atleast the main components.
The aim is to try out acrylic eventually but I thought I start out with something that seemed a bit easier and it turned out better than I had expected.





Opinions and/or sugestions are much appreciated!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnigmaMH*
> 
> My first costum watercooling loop.
> It has it's flaws, but it's not done yet. I made this in a 10 hour session yesterday after work, basicly working on it from I got home till I went to bed.
> I still need to pain the Fan rings, bleed the loop entirely, some proper lighting (Tried green, but it looked horrid in my honest opinion, so I'll try and put in some white LEDs see if it creates a better looking rig) In due time I'll add another CPU or two, but for now it'll stay as is, atleast the main components.
> The aim is to try out acrylic eventually but I thought I start out with something that seemed a bit easier and it turned out better than I had expected.
> 
> 
> Opinions and/or sugestions are much appreciated!


Only thing I can recommend is change the color of the fans to match you build the ring on the outside of the fans that is.


----------



## EnigmaMH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Only thing I can recommend is change the color of the fans to match you build the ring on the outside of the fans that is.


I agree entirely, unfortunately I haven't been able to find the right colour paint yet. I'll get there soon enough. Will won't be for another 2-3 weeks tho.
Cheers


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnigmaMH*
> 
> I agree entirely, unfortunately I haven't been able to find the right colour paint yet. I'll get there soon enough. Will won't be for another 2-3 weeks tho.
> Cheers


I think some colored tubing would look nice too. Green or black maybe? I think black tube would look better than green since there is already so much green in there. Some case lighting would look good too.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> yes these are the AMS, I am looking to use them in a desk lying flat so that the air flows bottom to top, if I can get away with passive it would save me a few hundred quid on fans


Do you have to line the entire radiator with fans? I'm sure the airflow and uniformity isn't as good but maybe with a shroud you could get away with spaced out fans... that way you use 1/2 or 1/4 the number of fans you normally would.


----------



## EnigmaMH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think some colored tubing would look nice too. Green or black maybe? I think black tube would look better than green since there is already so much green in there. Some case lighting would look good too.


Not sure, I really like the transparent look tbh.
Yea.. there's a hell of a lot of green. That's what I realised when I used green LEDs.. basicly everything just looked green. Didn't like that look at all. Were considering green coolant in the beginning, but I'm glad I didn't go with that


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnigmaMH*
> 
> I agree entirely, unfortunately I haven't been able to find the right colour paint yet. I'll get there soon enough. Will won't be for another 2-3 weeks tho.
> Cheers


You should be able to take a sample piece of whatever you want a color match of to an automotive paint supplier and have them mix up an aerosol can of matching paint. They'll mix it and paint a little on a strip of paper and quick-dry it so you can hold it up to whatever you took them to make sure it's a match. Just make sure whatever you take them has a flat surface they can use to get a spectrophotometer reading. It's a little expensive - I think I paid ~$20 or so - maybe a little more than that - for a can 4-5 years ago the last time I had something like that done.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnigmaMH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Only thing I can recommend is change the color of the fans to match you build the ring on the outside of the fans that is.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree entirely, unfortunately I haven't been able to find the right colour paint yet. I'll get there soon enough. Will won't be for another 2-3 weeks tho.
> Cheers
Click to expand...

To be honest with you I think you should paint them white and get some white tubes or fluid it would look sweet


----------



## EnigmaMH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You should be able to take a sample piece of whatever you want a color match of to an automotive paint supplier and have them mix up an aerosol can of matching paint. They'll mix it and paint a little on a strip of paper and quick-dry it so you can hold it up to whatever you took them to make sure it's a match. Just make sure whatever you take them has a flat surface they can use to get a spectrophotometer reading. It's a little expensive - I think I paid ~$20 or so - maybe a little more than that - for a can 4-5 years ago the last time I had something like that done.


Thanks for the suggestion. Think I might try that. Think it might cost a bit more than 20 bucks tho








Atleast where I live.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> To be honest with you I think you should paint them white and get some white tubes or fluid it would look sweet


It's corsair fans, they come with white rings. I'm not to keen on white for some reason. I more less hate the colour. It's not my taste to say the least


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You should be able to take a sample piece of whatever you want a color match of to an automotive paint supplier and have them mix up an aerosol can of matching paint. They'll mix it and paint a little on a strip of paper and quick-dry it so you can hold it up to whatever you took them to make sure it's a match. Just make sure whatever you take them has a flat surface they can use to get a spectrophotometer reading. It's a little expensive - I think I paid ~$20 or so - maybe a little more than that - for a can 4-5 years ago the last time I had something like that done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnigmaMH*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. Think I might try that. Think it might cost a bit more than 20 bucks tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Atleast where I live.


When I painted my GT's, I took a sample of the sleeving I was using to my local hardware store and just tried to match color the best I could of an off the self spray paint. It actually came out much better than I was expecting. If you have any extra of that green sleeve you used, you could try that as well. It would be loads cheaper than going to an automotive store


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> yes these are the AMS, I am looking to use them in a desk lying flat so that the air flows bottom to top, if I can get away with passive it would save me a few hundred quid on fans


Well, you could always try? I'd definitely be curious about your results. If it turns out not to be enough you can always add 6 fans to one of the two radiators, giving you probably enough to run quietly. (although 12 fans would definitely be better since you'll end up running much lower fan speeds)


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> is 2x 840mm radiators (aquacomputer) enough to cool 2 780ti's and 2 Xeons passively?


you could always custom make a shroud to hold 3 fans for each rad.


----------



## kpoeticg

I see it more as wasting money on rads than wasting money on fans

Even rads that are designed to be passive tend to suck. IMO you'd be better off getting half the rad space with active cooling


----------



## Chopper1591

Are there guys here who run a cpu only loop with a single 240 radiator?
Care to share me some info on cpu temps?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The seconds res will result in a pressure drop as you should expect, however, it is likely a small enough one that it probably will not matter too much to your flow. However, the second res must be completely filled
> 
> That being said, I wouldn't use a second res unless there was a really good reason to. Better to not over complicate things


There is a really good reason which I've been stating for a while now, it's either 1) disconnect it from the loop and fill it up and leave it as is for aesthetic view as it is a MUST for the theme I'm modding, or 2) hook it up and fill it up and use it with the theme, as the movement of water through it would give it more of a realistic touch and retro feel, since the pump would be pulling from the opposite side I'd assume ( but could be overly wrong ) that a suction force would be applied pulling the water out of the opposite side while water flushes into it. Please do correct me though as I"m still well within the learning process.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Not trying to please anyone,just trying to understand lunaP's method.


It's theme based and more stated above and earlier and more detailed on my build log, I'd rather have it hooked up vs sitting there and I love the concept and design/look of the bay res.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> The order of your loop really doesn't make a difference, all that you should be aware of is that you have to be able to fill the bay-res directly.
> Just filling your tube-res and start the pump will do nothing but damage the pump since it will be running dry,
> 
> Since you're using hard-tubing you definitely won't be able to slide the res a bit forward to fill it, so you need to find another way as to how to go about that.
> If your res has multiple ports on the back (so more than just one in and one out) you could use the spare IN port to attatch a (soft) tube which you can elevate and in this way fill your bay-res. Once your loop is filled completely you can remove the tube and close off that port.
> If your bay-res only has one IN port and one OUT you'd need to add a T-fitting on the IN-port so you can again attatch a tube. Be aware that you'd also need either a ball-valve or QDC since water will otherwise be gushing out again once you remove your fill-line. (this could also be a problem with the first option)
> 
> I could be missing something but I'm afraid these are your only two options to fill your bay-res and thus fill your loop.
> 
> Although.. If you have enough room between the top of your res and the top of your case you might be able to connect a tube to the fill-hole of the res. These are mostly not standard G1/4 holes so you might need to make your own..
> 
> It's tricky, but definitely do-able.
> 
> Oh right, there's a fourth option. I believe you have alphacool rads so plenty of possibilities to connect with those. You'd need to be able to shut off one of the lines of the rad (ball-valve) and connect a tank with distilled that can be slightly pressurized to one of the spare ports of your rad. (again a way to shutoff is needed, either QDC or ball-valve)
> Only thing left to do then is open an end-fitting (on the non-rad size of the ball-valve) and start pumping in the water. It will pass through your whole look and fill every cavity with water.
> 
> Good luck!


Very much appreciated, and as for filling the res bay it has 2 top fittings I can unscrew to add in via a tube if needed, I left 1 drive space free above it as to allow entry for filling, if you could recommend some style fittings for quick shut offs for this (links) would greatly appreciate it as I'll be ordering more fittings from FCPU today anyways since I'm short a few.

As for the Tube res yeah it has that larger fitting on top, I can probably google the fitting type but also curious if I can just stick a tube in and fill it up the normal way as well. It does have a 3rd inlet on the bottom as well.

As far as the bayres is concerned it has 4 posts ont he back, 2 in and 2 out. Mainly for dual loop and or of choice. I've made sure to leave space for filling on either though, so any best methods or best practices I appreciate info on, especially the fittings you're talking about as I've seen them before.

Theme based wise I'm going w/ Super Metroid and going to be putting a thin acrylic sheet extending from the inner wall and have Samus on it in her suit, the Tube Res will act as a Metroid tank w/ a special sticker I'll put on defining a metroid inside and or the tubes you blow through @ the end near mother brain, I'll be incorporating other features inside as well as other areas (opposite side of the case)

Hope that gives more of a visual on why I'm doing what I am.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are there guys here who run a cpu only loop with a single 240 radiator?
> Care to share me some info on cpu temps?


Lots of people do this. Temps will vary depending on lots of things such as what kind of OC is being run, what radiator is being used, what fans/fan configurations are being used, and so on....

Which CPU do you want to cool and what WC stuff are you looking at? What kind of temps are you wanting?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are there guys here who run a cpu only loop with a single 240 radiator?
> Care to share me some info on cpu temps?


A 240 is plenty for a CPU-only loop. Just look at everyone running a CLC like a H100i, and they usually manage to keep decent CPU temps even with their weak pumps and so-so fans.

Not too long ago Wisk was running a CPU + GPU off of a 120 rad and his temps weren't bad at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Until very recently I was running an i7-3770K @ 4200 Mhz / 1.2V and a GTX 660Ti @ 1175Mhz on *single AX120* rad. With push-pull fans at 1200rpm temps were fine (65C / 50C). [...]


----------



## kpoeticg

ColdZero's back up in case anybody hasn't said anything yet


----------



## DarthBaggins

SOS far I'm running a single 120 rad on my CPU oc'd to 4Ghz and noticed a 5-10 deg drop from idle compared to where I was on air, but a 240 is more than enough on a CPU only loop


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> SOS far I'm running a single 120 rad on my CPU oc'd to 4Ghz and noticed a 5-10 deg drop from idle compared to where I was on air, but a 240 is more than enough on a CPU only loop


This is OCN son we strive for Over Kill here









Man I need to draw an image for this lol. Making that project on my list for this week.


----------



## Fanboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> SOS far I'm running a single 120 rad on my CPU oc'd to 4Ghz and noticed a 5-10 deg drop from idle compared to where I was on air, but a 240 is more than enough on a CPU only loop


What is the temp difference on full load?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quick question, when installing an EK FC Terminal SLI. Would it cause issues if the cards are already installed?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Magoo...like a boss.



Some shots from PARVUM's MAGNUS build that i went down to do some bendwork for while they got to work on my res for the S3


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Soooo sweet the way it bends out of the case and back in.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Soooo sweet the way it bends out of the case and back in.


I was debating doing that out the back of my TH10 to loop around from 1 rad to the other for both sides...

Love how clean the tubes look, need to polish mine w/ something to get them to glisten.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Soooo sweet the way it bends out of the case and back in.


Yeah I second that motion, starting to make me think a bit about my upcoming build


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magoo...like a boss.
> 
> 
> 
> Some shots from PARVUM's MAGNUS build that i went down to do some bendwork for while they got to work on my res for the S3


Do u have a build log or video log?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'll find out tonight, what my load temps changed to


----------



## Anoxy

So, you know how you can buy the XSPC Photon reservoir + pump combo?

Does anyone know if I already have the pump, can I just buy the reservoir and fit my pump in the bottom like the combo?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So, you know how you can buy the XSPC Photon reservoir + pump combo?
> 
> Does anyone know if I already have the pump, can I just buy the reservoir and fit my pump in the bottom like the combo?


Yeah just find the res that matches your pump make/design and order away


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> You'd need more than a EK XTX360 to cool 2x 780's + 4770K, right? no harsh overclocking, lower voltages only if the chip(s) allow it.


Id say definitely yes..... the "rule of thumb" can't apply both to 150 watts GPUs and 300+ watt GPus when ya getting only 60 - 90 watts per 120/140mm

I have a 420 + 280 for two 780s (25+% OC) and 4.6 GHz 4770k w/ 1250 rpm fans in push....

with air filters removed and 1200 rpm fans speed, delta T is 8.4C, GPUs at 39C under Furmark
with filters in and 850 rpm fans speed, Delta T is about 12-14C, GPUs at 44C under Furmark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> That's basically how I will have my loop, except I only have a top rad and CPU only right now, will be adding front and gpu later. It looks good although I put the top rad as intake.


Its oft said that order doesn't matter but that statement needs a qualifier..... I'm showing as much as a 2C drop across each rad depending on pump speed. And no it won't matter as to the average temp of the loop but with ya CPU hovering in the mid 70s, and GPUs in the low 40s.... what component would benefit most from coldest water ? So at least theoretically ya CPU could benefit from being 1st after the rads .... but my guess is it would be less than a degree if that.

OTOH, unlike in the past, OCs on water cooled systems today are rarely limited by heat .... more likely bu max safe voltages so .... with that in consideration....it really doesn't matter at all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> A pump always pushes fluid never pulls.


Semantics really ..... one of the subjects that generated the most discussion when i taught fluid mechanics. It does both actually in a closed loop but is more evident when ya open the loop. Replace the res with a 5 gallon bucket open on top ..... now put the bucket on the floor..... as long as "suction" tube remains submerged the pump will pull the water outta the bucket. Once primed a pump will continue to suck up \liquid until the lift approaches the Net Positive Suction Head at which point the liquid will vaporize.

Another way to think about it ..... if ya tubing pops off the pump discharge, will the pump empty the loop w/o the pump to push coolant into the intake ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Striker36*
> 
> only till its 100% full. then it would function as any other section of tubing. but still. it seems like kind of a waste imo.


Sealed res even with air in maintains pressure......also extra thermal mass is valuable for cooling ....as load varies , heat to system varies....more thermal mass allows system to absorb spikes and maintain more stable temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are there guys here who run a cpu only loop with a single 240 radiator?
> Care to share me some info on cpu temps?


Not running it but can give ya the math

UT60-240 = 125 watts at 1250 rpm w/ 1 fan
UT60-240 = 140 watts at 1400 rpm w/ 1 fan

Haswell OC'd tp 4.6 @ 1.4 volts is about 145 watts.....and don't forget that ya MoBo, res, tubes and everything else also radiates heat....the theory says you'll see 10C .... I'd bet you will see < 7C....Thickness doesn't change things much...XT45 is 122 watts at 1250 and ST30 is 120 watts at 1250.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magoo...like a boss.
> 
> 
> 
> Some shots from PARVUM's MAGNUS build that i went down to do some bendwork for while they got to work on my res for the S3
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do u have a build log or video log?
Click to expand...

Its not my build,just some work i did for someone else.
Search for MAGNUS build on here.

And spoiler your quoted pics,you always leave them unspoilered.......


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So, you know how you can buy the XSPC Photon reservoir + pump combo?
> 
> Does anyone know if I already have the pump, can I just buy the reservoir and fit my pump in the bottom like the combo?


simple
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=59_367&sort=20a&main_page=index&filter_id=149
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c107/s152/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Pumps-PumpResevoir_Combo-Page1.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah just find the res that matches your pump make/design and order away


no you cant buy a photon to make a pump/res combo. either buy complete res/pump or separate


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah just find the res that matches your pump make/design and order away


If he's talking about attaching a D5 to a Photon res, no, you can't easily do that, there's no provision on the basic reservoir for pump mounting and XSPC doesn't sell any sort of upgrade kit.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So, you know how you can buy the XSPC Photon reservoir + pump combo?
> 
> Does anyone know if I already have the pump, can I just buy the reservoir and fit my pump in the bottom like the combo?


XSPC doesn't sell the Photon D5 Pump Combo without the pump.
They don't sell the bottom piece separately to add the pump to a Photon res by itself.
The Photon res by itself doesn't have an option for ports on the bottom to attach a pump with a pump top to the bottom like you can with many other reservoirs.

If you really want the Photon Res / D5 pump combo, you're going to have to buy it with a pump.

I went through the same thing. I have two D5 pumps already (one is new and the other pretty old / wore out), but I wanted the 270 Photon combo so I now have extras.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you could always custom make a shroud to hold 3 fans for each rad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I see it more as wasting money on rads than wasting money on fans
> Even rads that are designed to be passive tend to suck. IMO you'd be better off getting half the rad space with active cooling


hmm that would add 25mm to the thickness of the desk and then I would need some sort of fan controller too. Initially I was going to put two systems in there, each with 2 6 core xeons and 2 840mm rads, now I am considering 1 system with 2 12core xeons and 4 780s or 2 790s when they are released and 3 or 4 840mm rads just for overkill. Not sure how hot the Xeons get when rendering for example? But if I were to add more radiators it would mean that I would need more pumps which would add more noise.

If I were to go with 2 rads with fans, which 140mm fan would be most silent? or would I be better off going with 3 230mm fans blowing over both radiators side by side?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> hmm that would add 25mm to the thickness of the desk and then I would need some sort of fan controller too.


the shroud would add as much as you wanted. dont most water cooled system use fan controllers? you could use GOOD low rpm fans.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the shroud would add as much as you wanted. dont most water cooled system use fan controllers? you could use GOOD low rpm fans.


It would need a fan controller if there were no fans







Also I personally hate any sort of shroud or external fans or radiators so I would bring the entire thickness of the desk up to compensate for the fans.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are there guys here who run a cpu only loop with a single 240 radiator?
> Care to share me some info on cpu temps?


I'm using a CM Glacier 240L pump / block unit, fresh tubing, a Swiftech micro-res V2, an Alphacool UT45 120.2 radiator, and 4x Corsair SP120 Performance fans.

For your reference it's sitting on a Gigabyte Z87-WIFI Mini-ITX motherboard, 4770k w/ no overclock and no delid, all in horizontal layout in a Caselabs S3...

I'm maxing at about 35 (on BF4, etc) and idle is about 26 in an "average" American home...

Thanks - T


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> XSPC doesn't sell the Photon D5 Pump Combo without the pump.
> They don't sell the bottom piece separately to add the pump to a Photon res by itself.
> The Photon res by itself doesn't have an option for ports on the bottom to attach a pump with a pump top to the bottom like you can with many other reservoirs.
> 
> If you really want the Photon Res / D5 pump combo, you're going to have to buy it with a pump.
> 
> I went through the same thing. I have two D5 pumps already (one is new and the other pretty old / wore out), but I wanted the 270 Photon combo so I now have extras.


Well that's pretty lame of XSPC =/

Guess I'll look at the Bitspower tube reservoirs instead then.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Case mod idea. A combined Psu shroud, res holder and hdd mount.
There will be a 360 rad in the front, and the case will be a storm trooper case.

Any suggestions to how I can improve it?
It's gonna be aluminum and honeycomb mesh and hard tubing.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Its oft said that order doesn't matter but that statement needs a qualifier..... I'm showing as much as a 2C drop across each rad depending on pump speed. And no it won't matter as to the average temp of the loop but with ya CPU hovering in the mid 70s, and GPUs in the low 40s.... what component would benefit most from coldest water ? So at least theoretically ya CPU could benefit from being 1st after the rads .... but my guess is it would be less than a degree if that.
> 
> OTOH, unlike in the past, OCs on water cooled systems today are rarely limited by heat .... more likely bu max safe voltages so .... with that in consideration....it really doesn't matter at all.


I mean that I have the fans on intake pulling the air from outisde the case in through the radiator. That has nothing to do with loop order.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Well that's pretty lame of XSPC =/
> 
> Guess I'll look at the Bitspower tube reservoirs instead then.


Agree with ya there....however, cannot go wrong with them Bitspower Res


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Totally agree with the bitspower res....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Honestly no acrylic res compares to the glass reservoirs by XSPC & AquaComputer imho. It's not even close, especially when holding a new glass and a new acrylic res side-by-side. The glass looks sooooooo much better.

FWIW, you can buy the Aqualis reservoir and pump base for it separately.

No idea why XSPC won't do that for their Photons, as quite a few people have made posts wishing they would, and it would only mean more sales for them, but probably has something to do with them not wanting anyone to take the top or bottom off of them.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Honestly no acrylic res compares to the glass reservoirs by XSPC & AquaComputer imho. It's not even close, especially when holding a new glass and a new acrylic res side-by-side. The glass looks sooooooo much better.
> 
> FWIW, you can buy the Aqualis reservoir and pump base for it separately.
> 
> No idea why XSPC won't do that for their Photons, as quite a few people have made posts wishing they would, and it would only mean more sales for them, but probably has something to do with them not wanting anyone to take the top or bottom off of them.


Yeah I have the same one but am really curious as to the instructions as you posted above, since that should technically be the fill cap, what other methods would one use to fill it since the ports are literally below the tube.


----------



## mxthunder

After reading that picture above, has anyone had any issues running a WC system in super low temps for short periods of time? Its -5*F where I live and I would like to have some fun


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> After reading that picture above, has anyone had any issues running a WC system in super low temps for short periods of time? Its -5*F where I live and I would like to have some fun


Go air and do it outside.

As for WC,no special measures other than possible condensation awareness need be taken.


----------



## pc-illiterate

hey thunder, im an hour west of you. we got the snow AND the cold weather, -7*F and windchill of -40*F. open the window and just let the cold in...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> After reading that picture above, has anyone had any issues running a WC system in super low temps for short periods of time? Its -5*F where I live and I would like to have some fun


Stuff will freeze up with in minutes. IMO -7'C is the max temperature with a fan, then you can bench all night without freezing.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hey thunder, im an hour west of you. we got the snow AND the cold weather, -7*F and windchill of -40*F. open the window and just let the cold in...


Hovering right around 0F with a wind chill of around -30F but very little snow here in Cincinnati. It hurts. Can't imagine what the more northern areas are going through. The thought of opening a window for benching makes my bones chill right now


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Hovering right around 0F with a wind chill of around -30F but very little snow here in Cincinnati. It hurts. Can't imagine what the more northern areas are going through. The thought of opening a window for benching makes my bones chill right now


Been like -13F with a windchill of -42F here today, lol


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case mod idea. A combined Psu shroud, res holder and hdd mount.
> There will be a 360 rad in the front, and the case will be a storm trooper case.
> 
> Any suggestions to how I can improve it?
> It's gonna be aluminum and honeycomb mesh and hard tubing.


I had a similar idea with a shroud that I'm working on. I also have 360mm rad in the front. Not sure if I'm going to finish it because it'll be more of a pain to easily access the components with all of the paneling in the way. My question to you is, how will you even fit a 360 rad in the front with the hdd cage in the above demonstration?


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I had a similar idea with a shroud that I'm working on. I also have 360mm rad in the front. Not sure if I'm going to finish it because it'll be more of a pain to easily access the components with all of the paneling in the way. My question to you is, how will you even fit a 360 rad in the front with the hdd cage in the above demonstration?


Since i am redesigning the entire HDD mounting system on the storm trooper, i will have the option to move the HDD's a bit back so i may fit the 360 rad. + they are gonna be at a 20* angle or maybe more.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> If I were to go with 2 rads with fans, which 140mm fan would be most silent? or would I be better off going with 3 230mm fans blowing over both radiators side by side?


http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I mean that I have the fans on intake pulling the air from outisde the case in through the radiator. That has nothing to do with loop order.


I was responding to several people in a single post so as to avoid a series of separate posts ... that part was addressing the loop order comment.


----------



## rickyman0319

so on 140mm fan, Twocool and beQuiet Wing is good on 140mm rad. is that correct? it is quiet also.


----------



## pc-illiterate

the phanteks are a lot better than the bequiet wings by 3 or 5 decibles. still cant believe the antec fans are that good.


----------



## rickyman0319

but is Phanteks PH-F140TS 140mm Case Fan good for rad or not? it is only 1.2 mmh20 rated. even though it is quiet.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Been like -13F with a windchill of -42F here today, lol


I probably shouldn't mention it's been 15*C outside here, which is about 60F... God it's hot for this time of year -.-"

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> hmm that would add 25mm to the thickness of the desk and then I would need some sort of fan controller too. Initially I was going to put two systems in there, each with 2 6 core xeons and 2 840mm rads, now I am considering 1 system with 2 12core xeons and 4 780s or 2 790s when they are released and 3 or 4 840mm rads just for overkill. Not sure how hot the Xeons get when rendering for example? But if I were to add more radiators it would mean that I would need more pumps which would add more noise.
> 
> If I were to go with 2 rads with fans, which 140mm fan would be most silent? or would I be better off going with 3 230mm fans blowing over both radiators side by side?


Well, if you're worried about the restriction you probably shouldn't go for the Aquacomputer radiators. They're the most restrictive rads out there. The build quality is sublime (so I've heard) but the design without a single soldering joint made it a bit of a challenge to still get a descent performing radiator.
You might want to look into the SR-1. Very good build-quality and since it's designed for low-rpm fans it probably gives you the best shot at getting enough passive performance. Alphacool rads (although of lesser build quality) could be good as well. I would need a descent picture of the fin-design of the SR-1 to be able to tell you which one will perform the best, but if the SR-1 has the same perforated fins like the alphacool rads, the alphacool monsta would be the better choice (but if the SR-1 has 'plain' fins I'd put my money on that one for sure)

Using 3 230mm fans probably is a bad idea, fans that size are very lousy at best, you'd be better off getting a 480 rad with 4 AP14's.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There is a really good reason which I've been stating for a while now, it's either 1) disconnect it from the loop and fill it up and leave it as is for aesthetic view as it is a MUST for the theme I'm modding, or 2) hook it up and fill it up and use it with the theme, as the movement of water through it would give it more of a realistic touch and retro feel, since the pump would be pulling from the opposite side I'd assume ( but could be overly wrong ) that a suction force would be applied pulling the water out of the opposite side while water flushes into it. Please do correct me though as I"m still well within the learning process.
> It's theme based and more stated above and earlier and more detailed on my build log, I'd rather have it hooked up vs sitting there and I love the concept and design/look of the bay res.
> Very much appreciated, and
> 
> 
> as for filling the res bay it has 2 top fittings I can unscrew to add in via a tube if needed, I left 1 drive space free above it as to allow entry for filling, if you could recommend some style fittings for quick shut offs for this (links) would greatly appreciate it as I'll be ordering more fittings from FCPU today anyways since I'm short a few.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> As for the Tube res yeah it has that larger fitting on top, I can probably google the fitting type but also curious if I can just stick a tube in and fill it up the normal way as well. It does have a 3rd inlet on the bottom as well.
> 
> As far as the bayres is concerned it has 4 posts ont he back, 2 in and 2 out. Mainly for dual loop and or of choice. I've made sure to leave space for filling on either though, so any best methods or best practices I appreciate info on, especially the fittings you're talking about as I've seen them before.
> 
> Theme based wise I'm going w/ Super Metroid and going to be putting a thin acrylic sheet extending from the inner wall and have Samus on it in her suit, the Tube Res will act as a Metroid tank w/ a special sticker I'll put on defining a metroid inside and or the tubes you blow through @ the end near mother brain, I'll be incorporating other features inside as well as other areas (opposite side of the case)
> 
> Hope that gives more of a visual on why I'm doing what I am.


Sounds like a very interesting theme!
But since you can access the top ports on the bay-res all you really need is a 90 degree fitting with some tube connected to it. If you fit one of these on the end of that tube you can easily seal it off and connect a longer tube to make it easier to fill as well. When done just disconnect your 'extender'-tube, screw in the end fitting and tug away the little piece of tube left still connected to the reservoir.
That's how I would do it.


----------



## D33G33

Just finished rebuilding my PC.

Swapped out the 2x 240mm's for a 360mm and a 180mm dual. It was hard work getting it into the Fractal R4. Also swapped the GTX670 For a GTX780Ti.

Also made to length and sleeved all the cables, created a false floor and false motherboard tray, cut a custom sidepanel and went to rigid acrylic tube.

Here is how it used to look


And this is after the rebuild










I've only leak tested and made sure it boots. Keen to see what OC I can get on the GPU


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Honestly no acrylic res compares to the glass reservoirs by XSPC & AquaComputer imho. It's not even close, especially when holding a new glass and a new acrylic res side-by-side. The glass looks sooooooo much better..


Agreed.... the Aqualis was my 1st choice but wouldn't fit w/o lotta modding in the Enthoo so was one or the other.....looked at the Photon.... was still problematic but could have gotten in it.....I wuda went thru the hassle if the Aqualis was same dimensions as the Photon but I didn't find it anywhere near as appealing (no nano coating, glass wasn't as nice, no temp / pressure sensors, no membrane pressure relief) as the Aqualis.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> And this is after the rebuild
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've only leak tested and made sure it boots. Keen to see what OC I can get on the GPU


Very nice stuffing that so cleanly into an R4! I'm sure those fake panels help that clean look. Are you going to show any more pics of the inside?


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Very nice stuffing that so cleanly into an R4! I'm sure those fake panels help that clean look. Are you going to show any more pics of the inside?


Yea its been a long road, its been in parts for around 4 months!

Yea more photo's to come this was just a "yay its alive!" snap









As this was my first time sleeving and using acrylic tube i'm really, REALLY happy with it


----------



## 4WDBenio

Just a FI. Passive Heat Sink for Aquaero 6 is now showing up on AC site. So this is the answer to how you attach a water block to it.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Just finished rebuilding my PC.
> 
> Swapped out the 2x 240mm's for a 360mm and a 180mm dual. It was hard work getting it into the Fractal R4. Also swapped the GTX670 For a GTX780Ti.
> 
> Also made to length and sleeved all the cables, created a false floor and false motherboard tray, cut a custom sidepanel and went to rigid acrylic tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how it used to look
> 
> 
> And this is after the rebuild
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've only leak tested and made sure it boots. Keen to see what OC I can get on the GPU


Moar pics! What are temps like with that Koolance 380i?


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Moar pics! What are temps like with that Koolance 380i?


At a quick test on my old overclock temps are similar but the Thermal Paste may need to bed in. 4.6ghz @ 1.344vcore on a 3770k is giving a max temp of 58degrees after 20mins of OCCT with ACX Linpax. CPU is delidded running CLU between the die and IHS.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> At a quick test on my old overclock temps are similar but the Thermal Paste may need to bed in. 4.6ghz @ 1.344vcore on a 3770k is giving a max temp of 58degrees after 20mins of OCCT with ACX Linpax. CPU is delidded running CLU between the die and IHS.


Nice! Good deal, love that block. Considering one to replace my Koolance 360.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Small update,changed my res from off the HDD cage and bolted it to the case,also got 2 NB pk-3 for front intake....

Before


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







After....


What i would love to know,is now that i have both rads as intakes, will this in anyway hurt the pcb on my gpu's (as in degrade them with all the heat inside the case now)....?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Small update,changed my res from off the HDD cage and bolted it to the case,also got 2 NB pk-3 for front intake....
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What i would love to know,is now that i have both rads as intakes, will this in anyway hurt the pcb on my gpu's (as in degrade them with all the heat inside the case now)....?


Technically you should be introducing cooler air inside at this point, though if someone could back me up on this.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Small update,changed my res from off the HDD cage and bolted it to the case,also got 2 NB pk-3 for front intake....
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After....
> 
> 
> What i would love to know,is now that i have both rads as intakes, will this in anyway hurt the pcb on my gpu's (as in degrade them with all the heat inside the case now)....?


I see an exhaust fan back there. You should be money.

Sorry for quoting pics. On the couch posting from phone. BCS NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIP! ACC FTW! !


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Thanks guys,i was just worried about when i'm gaming,cause they two rads does push some really hot air inside the case....


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Well, if you're worried about the restriction you probably shouldn't go for the Aquacomputer radiators. They're the most restrictive rads out there. The build quality is sublime (so I've heard) but the design without a single soldering joint made it a bit of a challenge to still get a descent performing radiator.


Aquacomputer AMS rads are optimised for low speed fans, sub-800rpm. They are not restrictive at all.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> but is Phanteks PH-F140TS 140mm Case Fan good for rad or not? it is only 1.2 mmh20 rated. even though it is quiet.


SP140 / XP140 can be used as case or rad fan.

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140?showall=&start=3

http://phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html
http://phanteks.com/PH-F140XP.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21848/fan-1270/Phanteks_140mm_x_25mm_UFB_Bearing_PWM_Fan_-_Black_Frame_White_Blade_PH-F140SP-BK.html?tl=c15s775b207
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21849/fan-1271/Phanteks_140mm_x_25mm_UFB_Bearing_LED_Fan_-_Black_Frame_White_Blade_Blue_LED_PH-F140SP-BK-BLED.html?tl=c331s877b207


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> What i would love to know,is now that i have both rads as intakes, will this in anyway hurt the pcb on my gpu's (as in degrade them with all the heat inside the case now)....?


I don't understand .... don't you have the same cfm change over as before ? what blopws in must blow out somewhere so the heat is not staying there. Have you actually measured the interior case air temps..... mine typically runs about 4-6C over ambient.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I don't understand .... don't you have the same cfm change over as before ? what blopws in must blow out somewhere so the heat is not staying there. Have you actually measured the interior case air temps..... mine typically runs about 4-6C over ambient.


No i havn't measured the case temp when gaming,will start looking at speccy when gaming to see how much more the mobo and ssd's heats up....Also i'm not sure of the cfm that goes in the case,especially with the filters that reduces it,hard to tell what it will be after passing the filters....


----------



## Maximus Knight

I have a similar 2 fan intake and a 3 top exhaust. Tho for positive airflow youd want more intakes than exhausts. But i would not use the top as intake as dust will settle on the top of my case..


----------



## morencyam

I know everyone always recommends having radiators as intakes, but I feel as long as there is ample non-radiator intake fans then having the radiators as exhaust works just as well. I always prefer having my rads as exhaust just to keep dust in radiators to a minimum. And dust filters can only do so much


----------



## hyp36rmax

About time I'm fully water cooled now! whooohooo!!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Just finished rebuilding my PC.
> 
> Swapped out the 2x 240mm's for a 360mm and a 180mm dual. It was hard work getting it into the Fractal R4. Also swapped the GTX670 For a GTX780Ti.
> 
> Also made to length and sleeved all the cables, created a false floor and false motherboard tray, cut a custom sidepanel and went to rigid acrylic tube.
> 
> And this is after the rebuild
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've only leak tested and made sure it boots. Keen to see what OC I can get on the GPU


That looks fantastic man!


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That looks fantastic man!


Thanks i'm really happy with it. I'll try get off a few more photo's tonight as requested.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I have a similar 2 fan intake and a 3 top exhaust. Tho for positive airflow youd want more intakes than exhausts. But i would not use the top as intake as dust will settle on the top of my case..


Do ya ever turn PC off ? If so, dust is settling on top of an in ya case







.


----------



## strong island 1

I finally got my white monsta but there is a really big crack in the corner. if it just effects the look I don't really care, but the box was beat up and it took a hard shot. I should have went with the alphacool white edition instead of the frozencpu edition but I liked it because it doesn't have the bronze logo on the side. I think the alphacool white edition would have been less handled.


----------



## King PWNinater

Do you have the Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver for a controller, or the Tritton Warhead?


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Do you have the Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver for a controller, or the Tritton Warhead?


I have it for an XBOX 360 Controller, I use the Beyerdynamic DT990 connected to a Denon AVR 487 Reciever for kinda quiet status haha


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I finally got my white monsta but there is a really big crack in the corner. if it just effects the look I don't really care, but the box was beat up and it took a hard shot. I should have went with the alphacool white edition instead of the frozencpu edition but I liked it because it doesn't have the bronze logo on the side. I think the alphacool white edition would have been less handled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That really sucks









Is it just the housing or is it the core too?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Good lord, did Ace Ventura deliver that box to you??? Hate delivery drivers sometimes (remember the Fedex a--hole that threw the Samsung monitor over the gate?).


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I finally got my white monsta but there is a really big crack in the corner. if it just effects the look I don't really care, but the box was beat up and it took a hard shot. I should have went with the alphacool white edition instead of the frozencpu edition but I liked it because it doesn't have the bronze logo on the side. I think the alphacool white edition would have been less handled.
> 
> 
> 
> That really sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it just the housing or is it the core too?
Click to expand...

it's a little hard to tell. I emailed fcpu to see what they say. it sucks because ups damaged the first one and now this one is messed up.

Now that I think about it, there was a small box in a big box when I got it and I thought that was wierd. I feel like UPS sent it back to them and they inspected it and just thru it in a bigger box. the little box was all beat up. That sucks.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Good lord, did Ace Ventura deliver that box to you??? Hate delivery drivers sometimes (remember the Fedex a--hole that threw the Samsung monitor over the gate?).


LOL Jim Carrey lmao


----------



## strong island 1

would you guys just deal with it or try and get a new one. It's so funny because I can see the first shipping label on the smaller box and the damaged side was all taped up and than that box was repacked in a bigger box and that's how they sent it back after UPS returned it to them as being damaged in transit. I guess they didn't see the rad corner.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> would you guys just deal with it or try and get a new one. It's so funny because I can see the first shipping label on the smaller box and the damaged side was all taped up and than that box was repacked in a bigger box and that's how they sent it back after UPS returned it to them as being damaged in transit. I guess they didn't see the rad corner.


if it leaks send it back, if its just cosmetic i would deal with it and maybe repaint it myself.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> it's a little hard to tell. I emailed fcpu to see what they say. it sucks because ups damaged the first one and now this one is messed up.
> 
> Now that I think about it, there was a small box in a big box when I got it and I thought that was wierd. I feel like UPS sent it back to them and they inspected it and just thru it in a bigger box. the little box was all beat up. That sucks.






FCPU has always been pretty chill about returns with me. Hopefully you won't have a problem









-Zepp


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I would definitely send it back. It would drive me crazy just knowing that was there, even if you couldn't see it...


----------



## szeged

one of my monstas i got had some scratches on it, just repainted the entire thing and it looks factory except a tiny spot where i screwed it up but didnt want to redo everything to make it look perfect again lol. I have tamed my OCD about paint scratches.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> would you guys just deal with it or try and get a new one. It's so funny because I can see the first shipping label on the smaller box and the damaged side was all taped up and than that box was repacked in a bigger box and that's how they sent it back after UPS returned it to them as being damaged in transit. I guess they didn't see the rad corner.


FCPU has always been great with me on returns....even offered to restock few items that were "my bad"..... It's obviously a carrier issue, if it's gotta be replaced, they'll take it outta carrier....just be prompt on the claim reporting.


----------



## szeged

ive only had to get a replacement from fcpu once and it was kind of a meh experience, my 780 classy block arrived broken so i told them about it, they were more than happy to send me a replacement, but then they didnt ship out the replacement for a month







so roughly 35 days it took them to get me a replacement of a simple item lol.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I can see why you'd rather repaint than wait 35 days for a replacement.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I can see why you'd rather repaint than wait 35 days for a replacement.


yeah im exclusively dealing with performancepcs from now on, theyre closer, their shipping is cheap for their fastest shipping to me, overnight shipping is $12 lol. And ive had nothing but good things happen with them


----------



## strong island 1

ya the original package was sent back damaged and then resent to me so it seems they missed the damage when reinspecting. I sent an email with photos the second I opened it so I will wait and see what they say. I paid for 2 day air and it took 2 weeks to get the package and it's still damaged.


----------



## MNModder

I was wondering if anybody here knows if it is possible to order all the hardware For A Crosshair Iv Formula Full Cover waterblock excluding the backplate? So the screws, standoffs, washers, and thermal pads from EK or at least a place where allthse things can be ordered from thanks for your help in advance


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> I was wondering if anybody here knows if it is possible to order all the hardware For A Crosshair Iv Formula Full Cover waterblock excluding the backplate? So the screws, standoffs, washers, and thermal pads from EK or at least a place where allthse things can be ordered from thanks for your help in advance


I would check Frozencpu.com, they stock a lot of replacement EK parts!!!


----------



## pc-illiterate

send that monsta back and get it replaced. busted braze seams dont just happen from some accidental damage. pay for 2 day shipping and it will take you a month to get a rad. they better throw in freebies.


----------



## _REAPER_

Question for those with Acrylic tubes what is the normal timeline it takes for you to completely re do you loop?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Question for those with Acrylic tubes what is the normal timeline it takes for you to completely re do you loop?


im redoing the bending of my entire loop atm, but im taking my time with it and getting everything absolutely perfect, not a single degree off etc etc, been working on it for a week since ive been lazy lol.

could bust out a new loop in a day though if you are good at mathing.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Question for those with Acrylic tubes what is the normal timeline it takes for you to completely re do you loop?


Well, that depends on how many devices in your loop and how intricate you need/want to make your bends themselves. I took 3-4 hours a day for about 4 days to do my STH10, but that system had 5 radiators, 3 GPU's, a motherboard block, a CPU block and 1 pump/res tube combo. So there were a LOT of tubes and bends.


----------



## MNModder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I would check Frozencpu.com, they stock a lot of replacement EK parts!!!


Thanks found what I was looking for +rep


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> Thanks found what I was looking for +rep


Glad to help.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Guys, if one has a 360 mount on the top of the case, is it advisable to use a 240 instead of a 360 if the 240 rad provides slightly better runs?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Guys, if one has a 360 mount on the top of the case, is it advisable to use a 240 instead of a 360 if the 240 rad provides slightly better runs?


Just because the case is CAPABLE of housing a 360 doesn't mean you NEED to use a 360. If the 240 will work best for your setup, and will provide enough radiator "space" for you, go for it!!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Aquacomputer AMS rads are optimised for low speed fans, sub-800rpm. They are not restrictive at all.


I meant internally, the water flow restriction of these rads is pretty high, especially when you're comparing to a thick monsta.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I finally got my white monsta but there is a really big crack in the corner. if it just effects the look I don't really care, but the box was beat up and it took a hard shot. I should have went with the alphacool white edition instead of the frozencpu edition but I liked it because it doesn't have the bronze logo on the side. I think the alphacool white edition would have been less handled.


You need to have that replaced !

If it doesn't leak now, it will soon.

Even pushing that corner back into place so a fan can mount in all 4 holes is going to put more stress on it.

I've had to return a broken item to FCPU only once, but they were quick to make it right.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Well, if you're worried about the restriction you probably shouldn't go for the Aquacomputer radiators. They're the most restrictive rads out there. The build quality is sublime (so I've heard) but the design without a single soldering joint made it a bit of a challenge to still get a descent performing radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer AMS rads are optimised for low speed fans, sub-800rpm. They are not restrictive at all.
Click to expand...

They are very restrictive WiSK,they flow back and forth 4 times before exiting rather than the usual u flow. Martin demonstrated the pump requirements recently.
The performance loss is down to the round tubes and fin arrangement,not the lack of solder joints.

They make an excellent passive rad however.

Restriction in general is massively overhyped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> send that monsta back and get it replaced. *busted braze seams dont just happen from some accidental damage.* pay for 2 day shipping and it will take you a month to get a rad. they better throw in freebies.


This.

If it was damaged in transit then the whole corner would be trashed.

RMA.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are very restrictive WiSK,they flow back and forth 4 times before exiting rather than the usual u flow. Martin demonstrated the pump requirements recently.


I meant air flow restriction, not water flow restriction. I understand now that Gardner was asking about the latter


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are very restrictive WiSK,they flow back and forth 4 times before exiting rather than the usual u flow. Martin demonstrated the pump requirements recently.
> 
> 
> 
> I meant air flow restriction, not water flow restriction. I understand now that Gardner was asking about the latter
Click to expand...

Even the airflow is not as free flowing as normal rads WiSK,the staggered tubes prevent free flow plus the round tubes block much more unlike the flat tubes popular today.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I finally got my white monsta but there is a really big crack in the corner. if it just effects the look I don't really care, but the box was beat up and it took a hard shot. I should have went with the alphacool white edition instead of the frozencpu edition but I liked it because it doesn't have the bronze logo on the side. I think the alphacool white edition would have been less handled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i am worried about buying radiator from frozen cpu beacuse i asked them and they use fill pack machine for the packages:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPLVjQeXico
performance pcs use peanut foam for their packages which seems safer for me


----------



## Hefner

*My watercooling experience thus far:*
-Doing research and finding info about watercooling - FUN and no problem
-Selecting the parts I want - FUN and no problem
-Ordering all the parts I selected - ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPLVjQeXico
> performance pcs use peanut foam for their packages which seems safer for me


I've received rads BNIB with ridiculous amounts of bent & damaged fins from both companies. A UT60 from FCPU & an EX360 from PPC. I've never RMA'd rads for fins, but i've dealt with both companies RMA for other things and it's always been a friendly and painless experience. I'd imagine that cracked rad should get handled fairly quick


----------



## ginger_nuts

Does anyone know what the minimum temp of fluid can be for either D5's or PMP-500's ? Can they go sub zero ?


----------



## kpoeticg

I always thought they could as long as you use something like Mayhem XT1 so it doesn't slush up. I'm sure some1 will correct me if i'm wrong


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've received rads BNIB with ridiculous amounts of bent & damaged fins from both companies. A UT60 from FCPU & an EX360 from PPC. I've never RMA'd rads for fins, but i've dealt with both companies RMA for other things and it's always been a friendly and painless experience. I'd imagine that cracked rad should get handled fairly quick


i will be really pissed if my rads come cracked or with many damaged fins since radiator is the main part for the loop.Also shipping 2 rads to my country is $92.And i have to pay 1 way shipping again for RMA .I think both companies should be more careful with their packaging.


----------



## szeged

i dont think ive ever gotten a brand new rad from ppcs or fcpu with no bent fins


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I always thought they could as long as you use something like Mayhem XT1 so it doesn't slush up. I'm sure some1 will correct me if i'm wrong


That's what I was thinking as well. As long as the fluid is not slushy like, I should be fine.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've gotten some that are picture perfect and some that i spend hours on trying to fix the fins. It seems like just the luck of the draw =\


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont think ive ever gotten a brand new rad from ppcs or fcpu with no bent fins


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've gotten some that are picture perfect and some that i spend hours on trying to fix the fins. It seems like just the luck of the draw =\


i am thinking of buying 2x ut60 480mm,depending on the experiences which company do you recommend?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am thinking of buying 2x ut60 480mm,depending on the experiences which company do you recommend?


PPCs is what i would go for.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My 480 NexXxos monsta from FrozenCPU arrived with bet fins. Hopefully the one from PPcs damage free.


----------



## Majentrix

Is it true Alphacool make 45 FPI (fins per inch) radiators, and that they recommend 6k deltas for them?


----------



## cyphon

I've gotten rads from both companies as well and had similar results between the two. I've has a couple come with no bent fins and a couple with only a couple bent fins. Part of it makes me wonder if the fins get bent en route from the manufacturers even.

Have to say in terms of condition upon arrival I've had the best luck with hardware labs and then aqua computer. My worst luck has been on XSPC rads (not bad enough to return still). Not sure if this is a common theme or just happened to be the luck of the draw. Also would have been interesting to have remembered how many other items and how tightly packed the shipments were on the ones with bent fins vs no bent fins.....

Guess I've been pretty lucky but in general I wouldn't avoid ordering from either company. And I've worked with returns/fixing incorrect orders with both companies and they have always been quicker than their terms suggest and more than fair.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've had pretty identical experiences with both companies. I think it has more to do with how it comes to them from the manufacturers


----------



## D33G33

Hi everyone,

after your kind words here are some more photo's of my R4. Its nothing really special but what probably sets it apart is the dual 180mm radiator in the front which did take some work.

I'm a horrible photographer so please don't criticize too much







Also the acrylic tubing is quite flawed







None the less i'm really happy with it and hoping to get some decent clocks out of the GPU.

Full album HERE


----------



## Pebruska

What have you done to the door!?
I mean beautiful build you have there.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What have you done to the door!?
> I mean beautiful build you have there.


Well very late in the piece it would seem i had miscalculated and the front fans were basically touching the front panel... It had to get air from somewhere so I drilled out the front door. 595 holes center punched with a small phillips head screwdriver then hand drilled. It sucked.

I created a gasket around the fans that seals any airflow around them forcing them to draw air in through the magnetic fan filters for a maintainable air intake


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I finally got my white monsta but there is a really big crack in the corner. if it just effects the look I don't really care, but the box was beat up and it took a hard shot. *I should have went with the alphacool white edition instead of the frozencpu edition but I liked it because it doesn't have the bronze logo on the side.* I think the alphacool white edition would have been less handled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


FWIW, I don't think Alphacool puts the stickers on their rads anymore. Instead I believe they just include the stickers you can put on yourself or leave them off if you want, or at least that's how my UT60 & XT45 480s & 360 Monsta came. They used to get a bit of grief in reviews about the logo being put on crooked or upside down depending on how someone had their rad mounted.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Well very late in the piece it would seem i had miscalculated and the front fans were basically touching the front panel... It had to get air from somewhere so I drilled out the front door. 595 holes center punched with a small phillips head screwdriver then hand drilled. It sucked.
> 
> I created a gasket around the fans that seals any airflow around them forcing them to draw air in through the magnetic fan filters for a maintainable air intake


That sounds like a huge PITA.

Well done tho


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> i am worried about buying radiator from frozen cpu beacuse i asked them and they use fill pack machine for the packages:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPLVjQeXico
> performance pcs use peanut foam for their packages which seems safer for me


Can't see the video cuz I'm at work but pretty sure they hand pack them as I've been on the phone a few times w/ them while they were catering my orders as I put in pretty large ones at a time.

I got all 4 of my UT60's (480's) from FCPU and they came in just fine. I think the paper packing is actually better because it moves less while the peanut packing and still allow it to bang around a bit, though I've been ordering from both since day one and haven't had issues w/ either and I've gotten ALL my parts from them.

Pic below, my RAD's came in from FCPU and my AP-15's came in from PPC's I went w/ PPC's for the fans since they had them @ 16.95 + free heatshrink etc that + their 8% off code for anything over 250$







I saved about 74$ on my order I think total ( ordered other parts too ) I have a copy of my receipts in my build log, as well as organized as per store if you're interested. Need to update it today w/ the few recent orders I just placed.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am thinking of buying 2x ut60 480mm,depending on the experiences which company do you recommend?


Either's fine it just comes down to pricing I guess, and don't forget your coupon if ordering from FCPU/PPC's and if not then google up for coupon codes if the site is well known.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've had pretty identical experiences with both companies. I think it has more to do with how it comes to them from the manufacturers


Pretty much this, both PPC's and FCPU have been lightening fast. In fact the only issues I've had are w/ the shipping companies. One time a package was mishipped, and or issue w/ the post office so vs waiting for it to come back since it couldn't be updated FCPU sent me a new one out the same day w/ no charge, and that was a 700$ order + they upgraded it to priority express for free.

I have a habit of getting my orders in late on the dot and I put notes in asking if it'll make it, their manager even calls me to confirm it's going out and or that he's packing it currently. They're really great @ customer service and nothing I can blame them on. So far I've had about 230$ + worth of shipping refunded to me from both ONLY due to packages being lost from xmas holiday shipping.

On another note, holy crap my fingers hurt lol, I can't even unscrew a water bottle cap I have so many cuts from threads etc, I must be doing something wrong.


----------



## jokrik

Sigh, bad news
the AC active backplate is not compatible with my RIVBE
it seems like the ram handle interfere with the thick backplate itself, thus the card can not be seated properly



I might try to trim the ram handle but still not sure







naked GPU back is not sexy at all


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Can't see the video cuz I'm at work but pretty sure they hand pack them as I've been on the phone a few times w/ them while they were catering my orders as I put in pretty large ones at a time.
> 
> I got all 4 of my UT60's (480's) from FCPU and they came in just fine. I think the paper packing is actually better because it moves less while the peanut packing and still allow it to bang around a bit, though I've been ordering from both since day one and haven't had issues w/ either and I've gotten ALL my parts from them.
> 
> Pic below, my RAD's came in from FCPU and my AP-15's came in from PPC's I went w/ PPC's for the fans since they had them @ 16.95 + free heatshrink etc that + their 8% off code for anything over 250$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saved about 74$ on my order I think total ( ordered other parts too ) I have a copy of my receipts in my build log, as well as organized as per store if you're interested. Need to update it today w/ the few recent orders I just placed.
> 
> 
> Either's fine it just comes down to pricing I guess, and don't forget your coupon if ordering from FCPU/PPC's and if not then google up for coupon codes if the site is well known.
> Pretty much this, both PPC's and FCPU have been lightening fast. In fact the only issues I've had are w/ the shipping companies. One time a package was mishipped, and or issue w/ the post office so vs waiting for it to come back since it couldn't be updated FCPU sent me a new one out the same day w/ no charge, and that was a 700$ order + they upgraded it to priority express for free.
> 
> I have a habit of getting my orders in late on the dot and I put notes in asking if it'll make it, their manager even calls me to confirm it's going out and or that he's packing it currently. They're really great @ customer service and nothing I can blame them on. So far I've had about 230$ + worth of shipping refunded to me from both ONLY due to packages being lost from xmas holiday shipping.
> 
> On another note, holy crap my fingers hurt lol, I can't even unscrew a water bottle cap I have so many cuts from threads etc, I must be doing something wrong.


Holy crap that is a lot of fans...and anime/manga

Also, sounds like you are using Primochill Ghosts aren't ya? The threads do cut ya up pretty bad. I think you can use a wrench with them, but I never did.


----------



## DarthBaggins

FCPU, hand packs and truthfully is a better way to package goods, less movement = lower chance of damage


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Sigh, bad news
> the AC active backplate is not compatible with my RIVBE
> it seems like the ram handle interfere with the thick backplate itself, thus the card can not be seated properly
> 
> 
> 
> I might try to trim the ram handle but still not sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> naked GPU back is not sexy at all


Had a similar issue keeping my AC 680 backplate on, so I ended up using the evga one that came with card originally.
They really need to do something with their backplate, but who knows, it might just be an issue with some Asus Mobos
not having enough room between the first PCIE slot and the ram handles. My board is a MVE.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Holy crap that is a lot of fans...and anime/manga
> 
> Also, sounds like you are using Primochill Ghosts aren't ya? The threads do cut ya up pretty bad. I think you can use a wrench with them, but I never did.


32 fans, and lol thats like 1% of my collection.

Also using diamond gnurled revolver fittings. The ghosts are ok though just to clean for my tastes. The wrench sucks tbh and in tight spaces = useless cuz you can't get it in there I hand tighten it all for safe practice.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> after your kind words here are some more photo's of my R4. Its nothing really special but what probably sets it apart is the dual 180mm radiator in the front which did take some work.
> 
> I'm a horrible photographer so please don't criticize too much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the acrylic tubing is quite flawed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> None the less i'm really happy with it and hoping to get some decent clocks out of the GPU.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Full album HERE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I SEE YOU! Nice looking rig there.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*


that actually looks really nice with that shroud. good job.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are very restrictive WiSK,they flow back and forth 4 times before exiting rather than the usual u flow. Martin demonstrated the pump requirements recently.
> *The performance loss is down to the round tubes and fin arrangement,not the lack of solder joints.*
> 
> They make an excellent passive rad however.
> 
> Restriction in general is massively overhyped.
> This.
> 
> If it was damaged in transit then the whole corner would be trashed.
> 
> RMA.


The only way to get rid of the solder-joints was to 'step back' to round tubes which can be fitted with o-rings.
The rectangular/oval shape of the pipes used on all the other rads would simply collapse and not make a seal with the use of o-rings. Or you'd have to use far thicker walls on your tube which wouldn't do the performance any good either.
So the decision to ditch solder altogether and have a rad that can be disassembled forced aquacomputer to use the round tubes which let to the higher restriction of these rads.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I finally got my white monsta but there is a really big crack in the corner. if it just effects the look I don't really care, but the box was beat up and it took a hard shot. I should have went with the alphacool white edition instead of the frozencpu edition but I liked it because it doesn't have the bronze logo on the side. I think the alphacool white edition would have been less handled.
> 
> 
> 
> You need to have that replaced !
> 
> If it doesn't leak now, it will soon.
> 
> Even pushing that corner back into place so a fan can mount in all 4 holes is going to put more stress on it.
> 
> I've had to return a broken item to FCPU only once, but they were quick to make it right.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

ya, I even took a far away shot and up close it's even worse. fcpu was emailing me back right away at 2:00AM in the morning last night and they said they wouldn't trust the rad. It had to take a really hard hit thru 2 boxes for that to happen. Like you said the fan hole is also misaligned now. I want to keep it so bad but it's worth waiting for a new one.

Thanks for the advice everyone.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> *My watercooling experience thus far:*
> -Doing research and finding info about watercooling - FUN and no problem
> -Selecting the parts I want - FUN and no problem
> -Ordering all the parts I selected - ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE


Why exactly? Seemed to me as a noob that Step 2 is toughest (making sure you order all you really need and all compatible). That and saving a little cash is why I went with a complete used loop to start (XSCP kit would work too).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> lol thats like 1% of my collection.


I hope you never have a house fire! Even if insured...damn what a loss.


----------



## DemiseGR

So this just happened last week while building:





The fitting is a 25MM XPSC G1/4 extension, and as you can see from the pictures has completly snapped off. The fitting was placed on the GPU along with 90degree fittings to get more straight-looking likes of tube. The unfortunate result was for water to drop down all over the bottom of the case frying my PSU (a loud gun-like noise), thankfuly the loop wasnt full and i dont have my hard drives on the floor.

Has this happened to anyone else ? I've been using XSPC fittings, and alot of their products, for a while now without any problems... I've pinged them an email and waiting for an official responce as to why/how it happened.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Can't see the video cuz I'm at work but pretty sure they hand pack them as I've been on the phone a few times w/ them while they were catering my orders as I put in pretty large ones at a time.
> 
> I got all 4 of my UT60's (480's) from FCPU and they came in just fine. I think the paper packing is actually better because it moves less while the peanut packing and still allow it to bang around a bit, though I've been ordering from both since day one and haven't had issues w/ either and I've gotten ALL my parts from them.
> 
> Pic below, my RAD's came in from FCPU and my AP-15's came in from PPC's I went w/ PPC's for the fans since they had them @ 16.95 + free heatshrink etc that + their 8% off code for anything over 250$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saved about 74$ on my order I think total ( ordered other parts too ) I have a copy of my receipts in my build log, as well as organized as per store if you're interested. Need to update it today w/ the few recent orders I just placed.
> 
> 
> Either's fine it just comes down to pricing I guess, and don't forget your coupon if ordering from FCPU/PPC's and if not then google up for coupon codes if the site is well known.
> Pretty much this, both PPC's and FCPU have been lightening fast. In fact the only issues I've had are w/ the shipping companies. One time a package was mishipped, and or issue w/ the post office so vs waiting for it to come back since it couldn't be updated FCPU sent me a new one out the same day w/ no charge, and that was a 700$ order + they upgraded it to priority express for free.
> 
> I have a habit of getting my orders in late on the dot and I put notes in asking if it'll make it, their manager even calls me to confirm it's going out and or that he's packing it currently. They're really great @ customer service and nothing I can blame them on. So far I've had about 230$ + worth of shipping refunded to me from both ONLY due to packages being lost from xmas holiday shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, holy crap my fingers hurt lol, I can't even unscrew a water bottle cap I have so many cuts from threads etc, I must be doing something wrong.


Coated palm work gloves are worth their weight in gold imho when assembling a build (or working on anything really, like replacing a faucet or a car battery or ...). They don't cost much (I buy them by the dozen for ~$2 a pr), are comfortable and don't get in the way even when working with tiny parts, keep fingerprints off everything, and totally save your fingers from getting sore and turning into hamburger from twisting and tightening compressions. They are a stretch-fabric with a textured coating on the fingers/palms that really lets you grab and tighten something like a compression fitting a LOT better than you ever could bare-handed.



I've gotten so used to using them that my hands feel naked without them whenever I'm working on pretty much anything. I literally keep new pairs here, there, and everywhere.

Tip: Wear them small-sized / tight-fitting for your hands.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> I was wondering if anybody here knows if it is possible to order all the hardware For A Crosshair Iv Formula Full Cover waterblock excluding the backplate? So the screws, standoffs, washers, and thermal pads from EK or at least a place where allthse things can be ordered from thanks for your help in advance


http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g57/c609/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Thermal_Pads.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c585/s1881/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Replacement_Parts-EK_Replacement_Hardware-Page1.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c585/s1882/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Replacement_Parts-EK_Replacement_Washers-Page1.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> On another note, holy crap my fingers hurt lol, I can't even unscrew a water bottle cap I have so many cuts from threads etc, I must be doing something wrong.


I have these

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16610/too-51/ESD_Safe_Anti-Static_Gloves_w_PU_Coated_Tips.html



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Question for those with Acrylic tubes what is the normal timeline it takes for you to completely re do you loop?


Redo as in take apart already cit, prepped, chamfered, assembled tubing and leaving fittings .... 5 minutes ? Basically like pulling a cork outta a wine bottle 16 -18 times. Hardest part is remembering which goes where or labeling. Taking out assemblies with fittings might take same or little more.

Bot Rad => GFX cards assembly (unscrew 3 fittings)
GFX card Assembly => Top Rad (unscrew 3 fittings)
Top Rad => CPU Block (unscrew 2 fittings)
CPU Block =< MoBo Block (unscrew 2 fittings)
MoBo => Res (unscrew 2 fittings)

The two pump connections (From Red / To Bot rad) would take longest as those are compression fittings on flex tube and are in tight spot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont think ive ever gotten a brand new rad from ppcs or fcpu with no bent fins


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Question for those with Acrylic tubes what is the normal timeline it takes for you to completely re do you loop?


All mine came in a boxes....which I highly doubt was opened since it left the factory. I had 1 or 2 slightly dented fins .... straightened then with exacto ..... but I did much worse handling them myself


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am thinking of buying 2x ut60 480mm,depending on the experiences which company do you recommend?


For a wider perspective .....

http://www.resellerratings.com/store/FrozenCPU
http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Performance_PC_s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, I don't think Alphacool puts the stickers on their rads anymore. Instead I believe they just include the stickers you can put on yourself or leave them off if you want, or at least that's how my UT60 & XT45 480s & 360 Monsta came. They used to get a bit of grief in reviews about the logo being put on crooked or upside down depending on how someone had their rad mounted.


With my two recent AlphaCool rad purchases

1 came with copper screws (280) 1 came with black (420)
1 came with sticker (280) 1 came with sticker applied (420)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 32 fans, and lol thats like 1% of my collection.
> 
> Also using diamond gnurled revolver fittings. The ghosts are ok though just to clean for my tastes. The wrench sucks tbh and in tight spaces = useless cuz you can't get it in there I hand tighten it all for safe practice.


1% of the collection?!?!?! Your signature does not lie then...

I haven't used the revolvers yet, but I am pretty sure the thread base is the pretty much the same as the Ghosts. I was worried a bout the little wrench they have for that very reason.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 1% of the collection?!?!?! Your signature does not lie then...
> 
> I haven't used the revolvers yet, but I am pretty sure the thread base is the pretty much the same as the Ghosts. I was worried a bout the little wrench they have for that very reason.


The silver base unit on ghost and revolver is the same, and they have very, very, very small wrench flats on them nearest the tube opening, the little wrench for the revolvers is just to tighten down the compression ring, but I've found by hand still works better for me on the compression ring, for the bases, I use hands to get them started and then an small adjustable box wrench (crescent wrench) to finish tightening them to the block/rad/res.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> So this just happened last week while building:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fitting is a 25MM XPSC G1/4 extension, and as you can see from the pictures has completly snapped off. The fitting was placed on the GPU along with 90degree fittings to get more straight-looking likes of tube. The unfortunate result was for water to drop down all over the bottom of the case frying my PSU (a loud gun-like noise), thankfuly the loop wasnt full and i dont have my hard drives on the floor.
> 
> Has this happened to anyone else ? I've been using XSPC fittings, and alot of their products, for a while now without any problems... I've pinged them an email and waiting for an official responce as to why/how it happened.


It can happen, especially with the budget brands like xspc and phobya. I have a few new and used phobya fittings/adapters break or leak. Even my enzotech 90° adapter, the rotary portion snapped off while the cheap imitation ones from ebay are going strong. Its always a good idea to have some spares around. They're inexpensive so its not a bad idea to pickup a few more w/ your orders


----------



## dade_kash_xD

I'm planning to switch my 360mm top radiator fans to intake instead of exhaust. I am using bitspower compression fittings with primochill advance lrt tubing. Will I have to drain the loop in order to remove the rad and change the fan orientation or would I be able to work on it without draining the loop? Do the fittings hold up well enough where I can move and bend them a little without total catastrophe? I plan to remove the fans from the bottom of the rad and sit them on top of the rad, in between the top of the case. So case top -> fans -> radiator.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I hope you never have a house fire! Even if insured...damn what a loss.


Yeah tell me about it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> So this just happened last week while building:
> 
> 
> 
> .


For a second I thought you installed a water block inside your phone







was gonna say that's pretty extreme lolol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Coated palm work gloves are worth their weight in gold imho when assembling a build (or working on anything really, like replacing a faucet or a car battery or ...). They don't cost much, are comfortable and don't get in the way even when working with tiny parts, keep fingerprints off everything, and totally save your fingers from turning into hamburger from twisting and tightening compressions, etc.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've gotten so used to using them that my hands feel naked without them whenever I'm working on pretty much anything. I literally keep new pairs here, there, and everywhere.
> 
> Tip: Wear them small-sized / tight-fitting for your hands.


Yeah been meaning to pick up a pair just didn't think I'd end up that shredded up lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 1% of the collection?!?!?! Your signature does not lie then...
> 
> I haven't used the revolvers yet, but I am pretty sure the thread base is the pretty much the same as the Ghosts. I was worried a bout the little wrench they have for that very reason.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The silver base unit on ghost and revolver is the same, and they have very, very, very small wrench flats on them nearest the tube opening, the little wrench for the revolvers is just to tighten down the compression ring, but I've found by hand still works better for me on the compression ring, for the bases, I use hands to get them started and then an small adjustable box wrench (crescent wrench) to finish tightening them to the block/rad/res.


Sorry meant the difference in design, its much better looking, aesthetics wise, inside yeah they're the same. Revolvers just look much better. Ordered 14 more yesterday should be enough to finish the build.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> For a wider perspective .....
> 
> http://www.resellerratings.com/store/FrozenCPU
> http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Performance_PC_s


correct me if iam wrong , fcpu gives one time %8 discount code who posts a comment there.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> correct me if iam wrong , fcpu gives one time %8 discount code who posts a comment there.


10% for when you write a review/experience


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> correct me if iam wrong , fcpu gives one time %8 discount code who posts a comment there.


Yeah, but I think LunaP's right it's 10%. They give details about how to get the discount code in the email confirmation of your first order.

Tip: Make sure your review/rating goes live - can be viewed without being logged in - before submitting the link to it to FCPU for your discount. Reseller ratings have a tendency to delay the public posting of a new member review. You can see it while you are logged in, but others cannot, and FCPU will initially deny your discount code request if you submit it too soon. Been there, done that, but was able to get it worked out with them after a few back and forth emails.

The one-time 10% discount is nice. There's also the FrozenCPU 5.1% Discount Coupon: *xtreme* that can be used over and over on every order, and here's a few other perpetual codes from some others ..

Performance-PCs 5.5% Discount Coupon / Redemption Code: *OCN55*
Jab-tech 5% off Promo Code: *facebook*


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Had a similar issue keeping my AC 680 backplate on, so I ended up using the evga one that came with card originally.
> They really need to do something with their backplate, but who knows, it might just be an issue with some Asus Mobos
> not having enough room between the first PCIE slot and the ram handles. My board is a MVE.


I've also got a VERY tight fit with my XSPC backplate and my MVE RAM slots, they actually touch the backplate when mounted. Getting it slotted, I have to guide it into place, feel like I'm breeding bulldogs.









But yeah, Asus seems to like to have their RAM dangle low on the ROG boards.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, but I think LunaP's right it's 10%. They give details about how to get the discount code in the email confirmation of your first order.
> 
> Tip: Make sure your review/rating goes live - can be viewed without being logged in - before submitting the link to it to FCPU for your discount. Reseller ratings have a tendency to delay the public posting of a new member review. You can see it while you are logged in, but others cannot, and FCPU will initially deny your discount code request if you submit it too soon. Been there, done that, but was able to get it worked out with them after a few back and forth emails.
> 
> The one-time 10% discount is nice. There's also the FrozenCPU 5.1% Discount Coupon: *xtreme* that can be used over and over on every order, and here's a few other perpetual codes from some others ..
> 
> Performance-PCs 5.5% Discount Coupon / Redemption Code: *OCN55*
> Jab-tech 5% off Promo Code: *facebook*


Yes it is 10% .... but two things:

1. It has a sunset....must be used within certain length of time..... well most of the time








2. It's a "once in a lifetime" deal.

...and don't forget PCAPEX also good for 5.0 %


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, but I think LunaP's right it's 10%. They give details about how to get the discount code in the email confirmation of your first order.
> 
> Tip: Make sure your review/rating goes live - can be viewed without being logged in - before submitting the link to it to FCPU for your discount. Reseller ratings have a tendency to delay the public posting of a new member review. You can see it while you are logged in, but others cannot, and FCPU will initially deny your discount code request if you submit it too soon. Been there, done that, but was able to get it worked out with them after a few back and forth emails.
> 
> The one-time 10% discount is nice. There's also the FrozenCPU 5.1% Discount Coupon: *xtreme* that can be used over and over on every order, and here's a few other perpetual codes from some others ..
> 
> Performance-PCs 5.5% Discount Coupon / Redemption Code: *OCN55*
> Jab-tech 5% off Promo Code: *facebook*


Anything for Sidewinder?


----------



## VSG

Sidewinder already has prices usually lower than the others, so in a sense the whole website is on "discount"


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Anything for Sidewinder?
> 
> 
> 
> Sidewinder already has prices usually lower than the others, so in a sense the whole website is on "discount"
Click to expand...

They're not always lower, but they are a lot of the time. Their shipping pricing tends to be pretty good too compared with some of the others. They have occasionally had a discount code before but only good for a limited time. I do think they ought to have a perpetual discount code like their competition does, even if it's not as much a % off. Bit of a shame they don't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes it is 10% .... but two things:
> 
> 1. It has a sunset....must be used within certain length of time..... well most of the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. It's a "once in a lifetime" deal.
> 
> ...and don't forget PCAPEX also good for 5.0 %


Yeah I quit listing PCAPEX code at FCPU whenever I mention the discount codes because it's 0.1% less a discount than the XTREME code,and either can be used on every order, so there's not really a good reason to use the PCAPEX code instead.

Edit: Just realized that the code *OCN* is also good for a 5.1% discount.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I've also got a VERY tight fit with my XSPC backplate and my MVE RAM slots, they actually touch the backplate when mounted. Getting it slotted, I have to guide it into place, feel like I'm breeding bulldogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, Asus seems to like to have their RAM dangle low on the ROG boards.


Yep, and it's not a good move on their part since their ROG boards are high end gaming boards.

_Quick questions folks, does anyone know if I'll be able to get the D5 pump out this bay res and possibly use it with a cylindrical res?

The bay res is this one: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13884/ex-res-300/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Clear_Reservoir_-_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank

Thanks


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Yep, and it's not a good move on their part since their ROG boards are high end gaming


The reason they do that on the high end gaming boards is so that they can make it compatible with people running high end machines with 3/4-way sli/xfire on a std ATX or EATX boards. Would you rather they put in SO-DIMM slots instead? Or just make all the boards XL-ATX?


----------



## pc-illiterate

the problem is the excess plastic on the end of the ram slots. that end of the ram slot doesnt move so it really doesnt need to take up that space.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont think ive ever gotten a brand new rad from ppcs or fcpu with no bent fins


Must be buying the wrong manufacturer. HWLabs don't come with bent fins.


----------



## wermad

The fins are delicate and Im sure some will get bent when the manufacturers packages up the rad. Nothing a ball point pen or a small precision flat screwdriver can fix. Plus, once installed w/ fans, you won't notice it and I'm sure performance won't diminish w/ a couple of bent fins







.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the problem is the excess plastic on the end of the ram slots. that end of the ram slot doesnt move so it really doesnt need to take up that space.


The end itself doesn't move is correct, but there is a little moving part inside that end that allows it to clip in properly still. And it's not just asus. ASRock and Gigabytes X79 and the top end Z77/Z87 boards do the same thing. It does mean you might have some compatibility issues with some backplates, but most backplates will still work, I know my EK, EVGA, and Heatkillers have all worked fine.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> [...] _Quick questions folks, does anyone know if I'll be able to get the D5 pump out this bay res and possibly use it with a cylindrical res?
> 
> The bay res is this one: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13884/ex-res-300/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Clear_Reservoir_-_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank
> 
> Thanks


Yes, you can remove the D5 pump and use it with any other D5 pump top / res.


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Sigh, bad news
> the AC active backplate is not compatible with my RIVBE
> it seems like the ram handle interfere with the thick backplate itself, thus the card can not be seated properly
> 
> 
> 
> I might try to trim the ram handle but still not sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> naked GPU back is not sexy at all


Dremel is your friend. Same problem with my Maximus Extreme VI. I had to grind away a portion of the plate by the ram clips and by the I/O panel. It was tight, but it worked. I'll post pics later.


----------



## Anoxy

edit: I am dumb.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Bigger res = more restriction = pump has to work harder? Is that correct?
> 
> I am deciding between the Bitspower 250 or 150 tube res.


Nope.

Res size is immaterial to loop performance,it just makes bleeding easier,the extra volume of a bigger res just means it take a few minutes longer for the loop to reach its equilibrium.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Must be buying the wrong manufacturer. HWLabs don't come with bent fins.


yeah







its all alphacool rads lol, next ones i get might be some 480 sr-1's


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> edit: I am dumb.


No, that's not true at all. Once the coolant starts to flow through it the restriction is reduced to nearly nothing. It will also depend on the size of the fittings that you're using on it though and whether or not you are using any elbows on it. Other than that though a reservoir adds practically no restriction to your loop. That's my understanding at least and I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will tell me different.


----------



## Anoxy

Yes, hence the "I am dumb" edit lol. I thought about what I said and it made no sense.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, that's not true at all. Once the coolant starts to flow through it the restriction is reduced to nearly nothing. It will also depend on the size of the fittings that you're using on it though and whether or not you are using any elbows on it. Other than that though a reservoir adds practically no restriction to your loop. That's my understanding at least and I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will tell me different.


Sounds about right. blocks/90s are the most restrictive. fittings/tubing, not so much. res, virtually immaterial.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The reason they do that on the high end gaming boards is so that they can make it compatible with people running high end machines with 3/4-way sli/xfire on a std ATX or EATX boards. Would you rather they put in SO-DIMM slots instead? Or just make all the boards XL-ATX?


The board doesn't necessarily need to have So-dimm slots or be XL-ATX for the added clearance to be made possible though. It would be a nice bonus it that was possible. But i'm sure most users like myself find ways of making it it work anyway. Sawing of portions of the dimm slots of a $350 mobo just to be able to install a $25 backplate is definitely not my kinda thing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yes, you can remove the D5 pump and use it with any other D5 pump top / res.


Thanks, good to know. If I do get the pump out however, will a pump top be all I need to get it mounted to the base of a 250ml Res? I'm a newbie at this, so please pardon my ignorance.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> after your kind words here are some more photo's of my R4. Its nothing really special but what probably sets it apart is the dual 180mm radiator in the front which did take some work.
> 
> I'm a horrible photographer so please don't criticize too much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the acrylic tubing is quite flawed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> None the less i'm really happy with it and hoping to get some decent clocks out of the GPU.
> 
> Full album HERE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm really digging your build man!! Nicely executed!








The Koolance fan shroud is complimentary to the case. Is the side panel with the window stock or did you mod it with the nano graphics?


----------



## fa5terba11

That R4 build looks great! Quick question what type of fittings did you use going into the bottom? Is that like a bulkhead type fitting? If so who makes it?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes it looks fantastic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sidewinder already has prices usually lower than the others, so in a sense the whole website is on "discount"


Yeah Gary says he is "doing what he can to stay competitive". He is a really good guy and I am happy to support his small business (though I can say the same about most if not all of these vendors I've dealt with so far). Just him and his wife these days; used to have some staff he said.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'm really digging your build man!! Nicely executed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Koolance fan shroud is complimentary to the case. Is the side panel with the window stock or did you mod it with the nano graphics?


Thanks i'm glad you like it







The Koolance rad shroud worked out OK, I would have preferred to not use it but there is no way I could have not used it as clearances were so tight. When doing up the top fittings to the front rad they actually rub on the top rad so there is literally 0 space. In stock form the Koolance would have looked odd, after repainting it though it matched perfectly! It was a stock side panel that I had to cut. Some delicate JigSaw and Dremel work followed by a lot of filing...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> That R4 build looks great! Quick question what type of fittings did you use going into the bottom? Is that like a bulkhead type fitting? If so who makes it?


Yep spot on so they are Primochill Ghost Revolver fittings into Bitspower Bulkhead fittings for the pass-through.


----------



## Anoxy

Would it be a poor choice to re-use a silver killcoil from my previous build?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Dremel is your friend. Same problem with my Maximus Extreme VI. I had to grind away a portion of the plate by the ram clips and by the I/O panel. It was tight, but it worked. I'll post pics later.


isn't it easier just to cut off the ram clip?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> isn't it easier just to cut off the ram clip?


Sure







, till you brick your board







and need RMA it and they won't because you "damaged" the board







. I'd rather screw up a 30$ backplate instead of a $300+ motherboard!!!!!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Would it be a poor choice to re-use a silver killcoil from my previous build?


No, I've reused them and haven't had any issues with doing so. I do recommend though that if you're using dissimilar metals that you also use some type of corrosion prohibitor.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> isn't it easier just to cut off the ram clip?


a backplate can be thrown away as it cost less than trying to sell a 'jacked around' motherboard. at least i know i wouldnt buy a motherboard someone took a saw or dremel to.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , till you brick your board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and need RMA it and they won't because you "damaged" the board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'd rather screw up a 30$ backplate instead of a $300+ motherboard!!!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> a backplate can be thrown away as it cost less than trying to sell a 'jacked around' motherboard. at least i know i wouldnt buy a motherboard someone took a saw or dremel to.


lol dremel it is !


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, I've reused them and haven't had any issues with doing so. I do recommend though that if you're using dissimilar metals that you also use some type of corrosion prohibitor.


Any suggestions?


----------



## strong island 1

Finally got the RIVE black edition waterblock. I really like the nickel version. it should look really nice with the mayhems white pastel.


----------



## Deano12345

Will be ordering my loop on friday, CPU only at the moment, since I'll be changing GPU's shortly ( and Lightning blocks are still expensive







). Plan is for all EK stuff bar Primochill tubing. Will post up some pictures early next week when it all arrives and I get a chance to install it .


----------



## Pimphare

I bought one of these fan pcb's for my rad fans. Any recommendations on how to control the voltage output of this thing? I don't want my fans running full blast at all times.



Here's where I got it from. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_392&products_id=32847


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I bought one of these fan pcb's for my rad fans. Any recommendations on how to control the voltage output of this thing? I don't want my fans running full blast at all times.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got it from. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_392&products_id=32847


make, or buy, a 3-pin to 4-pin molex adapter and run them off a fan controller would probably work


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I bought one of these fan pcb's for my rad fans. Any recommendations on how to control the voltage output of this thing? I don't want my fans running full blast at all times.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got it from. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_392&products_id=32847


I used a small molex to molex cable between my fan hub and power cable, allows you to do 5, 7 or 12v with just swapping the cables around

Heres a pic of what I mean


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I bought one of these fan pcb's for my rad fans. Any recommendations on how to control the voltage output of this thing? I don't want my fans running full blast at all times.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got it from. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_392&products_id=32847


wire the molex you connect to it for 5v or 7v. its either that or wire up a rheobus inline


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I bought one of these fan pcb's for my rad fans. Any recommendations on how to control the voltage output of this thing? I don't want my fans running full blast at all times.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got it from. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_392&products_id=32847


I'm definitely watching this... since I have 4 of these. I simply thought I would be sending the input line to my aquaero 6 and let it control the speed. I hope I'm not wrong about this


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Any suggestions?


I'm just using a silver kill coil, Feser Base Corrosion Blocker, distilled water, and Primo Chill blood red intensifier.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wire the molex you connect to it for 5v or 7v. its either that or wire up a rheobus inline


Ive tried that at 7v with 8 x ap15 and with modmytoys splitter the exact same one
When I connected 3 fans it worked
But at 8 fans, they just dont want to started up

Im trying to get a handmade fan distribution and see how it goes


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , till you brick your board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and need RMA it and they won't because you "damaged" the board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'd rather screw up a 30$ backplate instead of a $300+ motherboard!!!!!


This. I've RMA'd a board to ASUS before and it was a fairly unpleasant experience.

Here's some pics of the grinding. I needed to grind down the screw head as well. It just barely fit. Please excuse all the dust!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wire the molex you connect to it for 5v or 7v. its either that or wire up a rheobus inline


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I used a small molex to molex cable between my fan hub and power cable, allows you to do 5, 7 or 12v with just swapping the cables around
> 
> Heres a pic of what I mean
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> make, or buy, a 3-pin to 4-pin molex adapter and run them off a fan controller would probably work


Thanks for the replies gents. I'm still trying to wrap my head around this. I'd like to somehow integrate it into this fan speed control switch. This is a stock switch in my Corsair Obsidian 650D case.



@pc-illiterate

Something like this?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok definitely huge improvement with the Watercooling, have set a light OC to 3.8(3791.15), when I'd run on air under load I'd be in the 45-50c range and now at 20-23c under water. Loving this so far (the app I'm using to monitor is called PC Monitor, can monitor and send basic commands to the PC remotely, it's awesome)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I ended up with really bad corrosion in my Apogee HD though was able to clean it off after soaking overnight in distilled plus a little Pine Sol per Swiftech's suggestion. It was thick; did not think would work. I have some old "G11 antifreeze" from the original Petra's that is for anti-corrosion (plus subtle UV blue color) but should probably get something different.

And if you shouldn't reuse a particular kill coil you can pretty much tell by looking at it.


----------



## iamkraine

I have a question about mixing mayhem Patel coolent. It says to use deionized water. Can I use distilled water instead? It also says to flush the rads with sodium bicarbonate. Is that the same thing as baking soda?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I have a question about mixing mayhem Patel coolent. It says to use deionized water. Can I use distilled water instead? It also says to flush the rads with sodium bicarbonate. Is that the same thing as baking soda?


Yes to both.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Finally got the RIVE black edition waterblock. I really like the nickel version. it should look really nice with the mayhems white pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Which fittings you running there?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Up and running:


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Which fittings you running there?


Looks like the EK 16mm HD tube fittings!


----------



## Menzies

My 350D, finally finished...



Pictures with window off to come.


----------



## ozzy1925

I wonder if the bitspower d5 pump mod kit fit to ek top?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Looks like the EK 16mm HD tube fittings!


Had a suspicion. They look really good in black. Wish primochill did ghost/revolvers in 5/8" od.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Finally got the RIVE black edition waterblock. I really like the nickel version. it should look really nice with the mayhems white pastel.


I'll probably end up ordering those in preparation of getting a RIVBE, but they're really hard to come by from most USA distributors.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Finally got the RIVE black edition waterblock. I really like the nickel version. it should look really nice with the mayhems white pastel.


It looks really beautiful.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I wonder if the bitspower d5 pump mod kit fit to ek top?


Im pretty sure I read somewhere that it wont fit, you have to use the bitspower top for the mod kit to work due to how it is mounted or something like that


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I wonder if the bitspower d5 pump mod kit fit to ek top?


Gardner's right unfortunately. The Mod kit is only compatible with Bitspower pump tops.



They have a mount that i've highlighted above, the mod kit's screw on to that.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sidewinder already has prices usually lower than the others, so in a sense the whole website is on "discount"


I didn't find that ..... Of the 68 items I had in my spreadsheet that was ordering they had among the least and the ones they had what I was saving was offset by the extra shipping.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I didn't find that ..... Of the 68 items I had in my spreadsheet that was ordering they had among the least and the ones they had what I was saving was offset by the extra shipping.


I've definitely found that sidewinder's usually, but not always, the cheapest for what selection they have, and the only place with cheaper shipping options than Sidewinder that I've seen has been Jab-Tech. For example, I just bought a bunch more AP-15s from Sidewinder for $4 a piece less than FCPU and $1 each less than PPC's sells them for, and on top of that Sidewinder's shipping charges came out to be less than half of what FCPU wanted, and $4 less than PPCs. Even with PPC's 5.5% discount they weren't even close to Sidewinder. Last week I needed a handful of fittings and Sidewinder had all of them I needed for cheaper than everywhere else I checked (FCPU, PPCs, Jab-tech) but Jab-tech's cheaper shipping made them the better deal but only by just over $1.

I've never seen _anything_ I needed cheaper at FCPU or PPCs than Sidewinder. The big drawback with Sidewinder for me is they don't have much of a selection, and a lot of what they do carry isn't kept in stock. If they don't have everything I need to order at one time, then it's usually not worth ordering from them and instead I wind up paying more per item for a single order elsewhere.


----------



## morencyam

I use Sidewinder a lot for small, last minute, emergency orders. And since they are only about 2 hours away from me I usually get my order the next day with the cheapest shipping option. Plus, Gary is an amazing guy. I've had him call me when an item I ordered was out of stock and he offered to send me something that was pretty much identical, but cost a little more, without charging any extra. Did the same thing when he shipped me a Bitspower Crystal plug without LED hole when I ordered one with the hole. If it wasn't for their small selection as compared to PPCs, I'd order everything from them everytime


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Unfortunate but of course Gary does not have the selection of these other guys or even that he once did; it's just him and his wife now as I mentioned and they are a much smaller business than those other vendors. This market isn't as big as it once was either...

PPCs has a warehouse with "puller" employees like Amazon. Gary probably uses his garage.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've definitely found that sidewinder's usually, but not always, the cheapest for what selection they have, and the only place with cheaper shipping options than Sidewinder that I've seen has been Jab-Tech. For example, I just bought a bunch more AP-15s from Sidewinder for $4 a piece less than FCPU and $1 each less than PPC's sells them for, and on top of that Sidewinder's shipping charges came out to be less than half of what FCPU wanted, and $4 less than PPCs. Even with PPC's 5.5% discount they weren't even close to Sidewinder. Last week I needed a handful of fittings and Sidewinder had all of them I needed for cheaper than everywhere else I checked (FCPU, PPCs, Jab-tech) but Jab-tech's cheaper shipping made them the better deal but only by just over $1.
> 
> I've never seen _anything_ I needed cheaper at FCPU or PPCs than Sidewinder. The big drawback with Sidewinder for me is they don't have much of a selection, and a lot of what they do carry isn't kept in stock. If they don't have everything I need to order at one time, then it's usually not worth ordering from them and instead I wind up paying more per item for a single order elsewhere.


My point was that when buying 68 items ($2362)....shipping doesn't change significantly from 30 items ..... once WBs are in the box, adding the fan pins, plastic connectors, HS etc doesn't change the shipping for all the added little tiny parts that weight almost nothing. In my spreadsheet, adding up the items common to any store, the total differences ranged from $6-8 ..... that's was not enough to get above the minimum shipping cost to make any purchases to additional vendors worthwhile. Of course that was specific to my list and "your mileage may vary".

I had FCPU, PPCs, Jabtech, Sidewinder and 1 more in my spreadsheet .... can't remember the last outfit....was one I saw here but not often. As I recall, someone was taking over at some point.

Im not saying don't shop ..... I spent a lotta time getting prices and checking inventory at 5 places x 68 times.....I'm saying the opposite....just make sure ya include all the costs ...., and that includes money and time.

Option 1 - Buy 66 items from one place for $2340 + $22 shipping

Option 2 - buy 40 items from 1 place for $1500 + $20 shipping, $492 from another place with $12 shipping and $336 from a 3rd with $9 shipping, ya lost money and ya lost a lotta time.

Ignoring the shipping costs for the moment, for the hours I spent checking inventory and collecting prices, I felt it certainly it was worth the cost difference....so when I decided to add some flow meters, I didn't compare and it bit me on the ass. Paid way more than I coulda..... had I waited a week, the prices were the same everywhere.... wasn't so much a vendor difference as it was a I think a change in manufacturer pricing. That's an example were shopping / comparing certainly wuda certainly be worth the T & E.

I was all set to buy from newegg as I did with case and previous fan purchases and said "lemme compare".... so went shopping for more case fans and was surprised to have found them (so far) cheaper at FCPU (PPCs, Sidewinder, jabtech doesn't carry,

LED
Amazon - $18
*FCPU = $16*
Newegg - $18

Non LED ones:
Amazon - $19
*FCPU - $15
Newegg - $15*

PWM ones
Amazon - $18
FCPU - $18
Newegg - $18

So my advice would be .... even when ya checked all around and the same guy has *always" been cheaper.... maybe not every time but it's worth looking again every once and a while to see what things have changed.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Finally got the RIVE black edition waterblock. I really like the nickel version. it should look really nice with the mayhems white pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> Which fittings you running there?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Which fittings you running there?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the EK 16mm HD tube fittings!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Finally got the RIVE black edition waterblock. I really like the nickel version. it should look really nice with the mayhems white pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> It looks really beautiful.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. yes they are the 16mm ek hard tube fittings in black. I'm hoping the colors will go good with the white pastel coolant. I never get my color scheme right. I think these are the only option right now for 16mm tubing. I couldn't find any others that big. I wanted to go with a little bit bigger tubing because the sth10 is so huge.

Update on my damaged white monsta rad just to let you guys know about frozencpu support. They already sent me a tracking number last night for the replacement rad. They will use my photos for the ups damage claim and just have ups pick up the damaged rad from me at a later date. That was really cool of them so I didn't have to wait for the shipping claim to go thru. I am so happy with how they handled the whole situation.

The replacement rad is already shipping and I got the damaged package on Monday so that is amazingly fast. I was a little shocked.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> My point was that when buying 68 items ($2362)....shipping doesn't change significantly from 30 items ..... once WBs are in the box, adding the fan pins, plastic connectors, HS etc doesn't change the shipping for all the added little tiny parts that weight almost nothing. In my spreadsheet, adding up the items common to any store, the total differences ranged from $6-8 ..... that's was not enough to get above the minimum shipping cost to make any purchases to additional vendors worthwhile. Of course that was specific to my list and "your mileage may vary".
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I had FCPU, PPCs, Jabtech, Sidewinder and 1 more in my spreadsheet .... can't remember the last outfit....was one I saw here but not often. As I recall, someone was taking over at some point.
> 
> Im not saying don't shop ..... I spent a lotta time getting prices and checking inventory at 5 places x 68 times.....I'm saying the opposite....just make sure ya include all the costs ...., and that includes money and time.
> 
> Option 1 - Buy 66 items from one place for $2340 + $22 shipping
> 
> Option 2 - buy 40 items from 1 place for $1500 + $20 shipping, $492 from another place with $12 shipping and $336 from a 3rd with $9 shipping, ya lost money and ya lost a lotta time.
> 
> Ignoring the shipping costs for the moment, for the hours I spent checking inventory and collecting prices, I felt it certainly it was worth the cost difference....so when I decided to add some flow meters, I didn't compare and it bit me on the ass. Paid way more than I coulda..... had I waited a week, the prices were the same everywhere.... wasn't so much a vendor difference as it was a I think a change in manufacturer pricing. That's an example were shopping / comparing certainly wuda certainly be worth the T & E.
> 
> I was all set to buy from newegg as I did with case and previous fan purchases and said "lemme compare".... so went shopping for more case fans and was surprised to have found them (so far) cheaper at FCPU (PPCs, Sidewinder, jabtech doesn't carry,
> 
> LED
> Amazon - $18
> *FCPU = $16*
> Newegg - $18
> 
> Non LED ones:
> Amazon - $19
> *FCPU - $15
> Newegg - $15*
> 
> PWM ones
> Amazon - $18
> FCPU - $18
> Newegg - $18
> 
> So my advice would be .... even when ya checked all around and the same guy has *always" been cheaper.... maybe not every time but it's worth looking again every once and a while to see what things have changed.


Listen to the man, he makes a lot of sense


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Update on my damaged white monsta rad just to let you guys know about frozencpu support. They already sent me a tracking number last night for the replacement rad. They will use my photos for the ups damage claim and just have ups pick up the damaged rad from me at a later date. That was really cool of them so I didn't have to wait for the shipping claim to go thru. I am so happy with how they handled the whole situation.
> 
> The replacement rad is already shipping and I got the damaged package on Monday so that is amazingly fast. I was a little shocked.


With people talking about pricing and vendors and such, I noticed that you do pay more from FCPU but their RMA process and customer support and shipping time is very, very good.

One time I placed an order but realized 10 minutes later that I selected the wrong color on one of the fittings. I called them but it was already too late, my "Rush" order had been sent to the warehouse and was being packed already.... 10 minutes later. I got the shipping notice about 15 minutes after that. The RMA was simple.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Thanks guys. yes they are the 16mm ek hard tube fittings in black. I'm hoping the colors will go good with the white pastel coolant. I never get my color scheme right. I think these are the only option right now for 16mm tubing. I couldn't find any others that big. I wanted to go with a little bit bigger tubing because the sth10 is so huge.
> 
> Update on my damaged white monsta rad just to let you guys know about frozencpu support. They already sent me a tracking number last night for the replacement rad. They will use my photos for the ups damage claim and just have ups pick up the damaged rad from me at a later date. That was really cool of them so I didn't have to wait for the shipping claim to go thru. I am so happy with how they handled the whole situation.
> 
> The replacement rad is already shipping and I got the damaged package on Monday so that is amazingly fast. I was a little shocked.


Awesome! Glad they took care of ya.

They have always been real good for me too. They sent me the wrong fittings before and they shipped the replacement as soon as I gave them the tracking information for the return. They gave me a store credit for the value of fittings as well, so I ended up with the fittings plus my money back on them







. They're shipping times and costs are best for me too, so I use them a lot. Even if it costs a little more, their service makes up for it.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Thanks guys. yes they are the 16mm ek hard tube fittings in black. I'm hoping the colors will go good with the white pastel coolant. I never get my color scheme right. I think these are the only option right now for 16mm tubing. I couldn't find any others that big. I wanted to go with a little bit bigger tubing because the sth10 is so huge.
> 
> Update on my damaged white monsta rad just to let you guys know about frozencpu support. They already sent me a tracking number last night for the replacement rad. They will use my photos for the ups damage claim and just have ups pick up the damaged rad from me at a later date. That was really cool of them so I didn't have to wait for the shipping claim to go thru. I am so happy with how they handled the whole situation.
> 
> The replacement rad is already shipping and I got the damaged package on Monday so that is amazingly fast. I was a little shocked.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! Glad they took care of ya.
> 
> They have always been real good for me too. They sent me the wrong fittings before and they shipped the replacement as soon as I gave them the tracking information for the return. They gave me a store credit for the value of fittings as well, so I ended up with the fittings plus my money back on them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They're shipping times and costs are best for me too, so I use them a lot. Even if it costs a little more, their service makes up for it.
Click to expand...

Thanks, ya I like to use them also because they are in the same state as me. Shipping times are usually great.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Ive tried that at 7v with 8 x ap15 and with modmytoys splitter the exact same one
> When I connected 3 fans it worked
> But at 8 fans, they just dont want to started up
> 
> Im trying to get a handmade fan distribution and see how it goes


Well that's not good I have 32 and 4 of those splitters which I have 8 hooked up to in which I'm combining 2x8 on a 1x3 board which then goes to the Fan Controller so 16 fans per channel to leave an additional open to the pump. I know wermad has the same.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well that's not good I have 32 and 4 of those splitters which I have 8 hooked up to in which I'm combining 2x8 on a 1x3 board which then goes to the Fan Controller so 16 fans per channel to leave an additional open to the pump. I know wermad has the same.


It will depend on the power output capabilities of the fan controller channels....which are you using?


----------



## Chopper1591

Who was some tips for me about withdrawal symptoms?

I am SO infected with the WC virus.
Can't stand it that I have to wait for funds to complete my loop. Damned crisis.


----------



## spikezone2004

anyone have a problem of your fittings being so close together on gpu ek vga block its hard to turn em cause they touch?

i am in the middle of rebuilding my loop while i wait for a new motherboard got everything pretty much ready to just throw in new mobo and hook up, changed my color scheme completely


----------



## zmegati

Guys I need advice, I plan to buy a D5 pump but I see that there several Aquacomputer D5, XSPC D5, Alphacool VPP655, Swiftech MCP655.

What's the difference?

Which of them you advise me to buy?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Guys I need advice, I plan to buy a D5 pump but I see that there several Aquacomputer D5, XSPC D5, Alphacool VPP655, Swiftech MCP655.
> 
> What's the difference?
> 
> Which of them you advise me to buy?


Personally, for the D5's I run the Alphacool units. I've never had one fail yet, and one of my D5's has been going strong for 3+ years with daily use.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Guys I need advice, I plan to buy a D5 pump but I see that there several Aquacomputer D5, XSPC D5, Alphacool VPP655, Swiftech MCP655.
> 
> What's the difference?
> 
> Which of them you advise me to buy?


If you plan to use an Aquaero now or in the future, getting the AC unit might be advisable as you will get the Aquaero ports on the bottom.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Guys I need advice, I plan to buy a D5 pump but I see that there several Aquacomputer D5, XSPC D5, Alphacool VPP655, Swiftech MCP655.
> 
> What's the difference?
> 
> Which of them you advise me to buy?


If you plan on using anything other than the stock top that comes on the pump, I'd advise getting a bare pump that comes without the top. Reason being, at least with the Swiftech(not sure about the other brands), that removing the stop top voids the warranty of the pump.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Guys I need advice, I plan to buy a D5 pump but I see that there several Aquacomputer D5, XSPC D5, Alphacool VPP655, Swiftech MCP655.
> 
> What's the difference?
> 
> Which of them you advise me to buy?


They are all the same pump,just rebranded.
The exception is the AC pump,that has compatibility the the Aquasuite software,you dont need a Aquaero to control it,the Aquasuite software can control it directly via USB.

Get a Vario or a Strong D5,not the fixed speed variant.


----------



## Timx2

Hello,

I finally finished my first custom water loop build by adding the Sapphire 290X with an EKWB waterblock & backplate. Nothing to special but I am proud of it. In case anyone wonders why I put the outlet right under my inlet (GPU block).. well that tube isn't going anywhere. It's my drain


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It will depend on the power output capabilities of the fan controller channels....which are you using?


Aquaeros 6


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timx2*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I finally finished my first custom water loop build by adding the Sapphire 290X with an EKWB waterblock & backplate. Nothing to special but I am proud of it. In case anyone wonders why I put the outlet right under my inlet (GPU block).. well that tube isn't going anywhere. It's my drain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


good work







got any pics without the case lights?


----------



## cyphon

Double post


----------



## Timx2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Good work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got any pics without the case lighting?


I added a picture taken with some more light.

By the way, I am wondering one thing.. Do I need to tighten my fittings after a while again? I used some kind of tupperware rubber (my wife came with that idea and it worked well) to tighten them quite strong. I rather do not touch the fittings again because I am scared to death I loosen them instead and some are quite hard to reach. But if it's needed then it need to be done...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are all the same pump,just rebranded.
> The exception is the AC pump,that has compatibility the the Aquasuite software,you dont need a Aquaero to control it,the Aquasuite software can control it directly via USB.
> 
> Get a Vario or a Strong D5,not the fixed speed variant.


What's wrong with the fixed speed variant? I've been using mine without issue for the past nearly 2 years now. It runs at a constant 4200 RPM or so and it's quieter than anything else in my system.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timx2*
> 
> I added a picture taken with some more light.
> 
> By the way, I am wondering one thing.. Do I need to tighten my fittings after a while again? I used some kind of tupperware rubber (my wife came with that idea and it worked well) to tighten them quite strong. I rather do not touch the fittings again because I am scared to death I loosen them instead and some are quite hard to reach. But if it's needed then it need to be done...


Hand tightening is really all you need. It is normal that they do not usually tighten all the way down. I usually will tighten them as much as I can by hand, leak test several hours, and then make sure they are all secure by giving them a little bit more of a turn. They usually are bout one or two will tighten down a little bit more.

Once you have leak tested, it takes some real effort to break a loop. You do not need to be scared at all about checking fittings


----------



## zmegati

Im from Croatia and I can not buy in Croatia any part for water cooling all I have to order over the Internet from other countries so that the warranty its a big problem if something does not work.

I have already ordered Phobya Balancer 150 black nickel, EK Water Blocks EK-D5 X-TOP, I have everything else except pumps.


----------



## spikezone2004

if warranty is a problem them i would definitely go with a good quality pump. are warranties not valid in croatia even if you ship it to them?


----------



## zmegati

warranties is valid but the cost of sending the pump back are almost the same as to buy a new one!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> warranties is valid but the cost of sending the pump back are almost the same as to buy a new one!


Also to Aquatuning (Germany) or EK (Slovenia)?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are all the same pump,just rebranded.
> The exception is the AC pump,that has compatibility the the Aquasuite software,you dont need a Aquaero to control it,the Aquasuite software can control it directly via USB.
> 
> Get a Vario or a Strong D5,not the fixed speed variant.
> 
> 
> 
> What's wrong with the fixed speed variant? I've been using mine without issue for the past nearly 2 years now. It runs at a constant 4200 RPM or so and it's quieter than anything else in my system.
Click to expand...

There is nothing wrong with it at all but the Vario is normally a similar price and is more powerful @ setting 5 over the fixed setting of 4.

Free performance is free neh?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is nothing wrong with it at all but the Vario is normally a similar price and is more powerful @ setting 5 over the fixed setting of 4.
> 
> Free performance is free neh?


I see what you mean. Good point.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> warranties is valid but the cost of sending the pump back are almost the same as to buy a new one!


Can't go wrong with a D5 vario and can't go wrong with swiftech

Really all the d5s are the same (aquacomputer aside because of their vision software adaptor) and are all roughly the same price so it is pick the company you like most.

I tend to support companies that support the community most and are active in these forums.


----------



## Striker36

I have been thinking about the plumbing arrangement in my current build but I am very limited in space on a few parts of it. does any one know how wide 90* fittings are with a compression fitting screwed in?

its sort of a problem as the idea I want to run with leaves me with just under an inch of depth to fit a bunch of stuff into


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> If you plan on using anything other than the stock top that comes on the pump, I'd advise getting a bare pump that comes without the top. Reason being, at least with the Swiftech(not sure about the other brands), that removing the stop top voids the warranty of the pump.


I don't think Swiftech sells their pumps without a top like XSPC / Alphacool / Aquacomputer / etc do. Swiftech isn't worried about people taking their pumps apart (though doing that will void the warranty). They changed their pump warranty policy because they were noticing higher than normal failure rates which they attributed to when their pumps were used with some pump tops from other manufacturers (which is why I don't think they sell their pumps without a top). They changed their pump warranty policy a few years back now so that opening one of their pumps up for any reason, whether just to clean or inspect it, or install a modified pump top, voids it.

If you look on some of the threads from people complaining about it after finding out the hard way. if you bought a Swiftech pump with a modified pump top already installed or purchased a pump top for it on the same order, as soon as Swiftech sees that on your receipt they deny the warranty claim. What's crazy is vendors like PPCs and FrozenCPU both sell Swiftech pumps with Bitspower pump tops already installed so the Swiftech warranty on the pump is shot on your $200 pump before you ever get it. No idea why they would use Swiftech pumps for that, though FrozenCPU's does have an option to get theirs with an Alphacool D5 instead.

Anyway, it's probably a good idea to get your Laing pump with a different reseller's sticker on it other than Swiftech. They're a good company, but there's no good reason to get the pump from them when so many others sell the exact same thing, often for cheaper, and they aren't worried about whether you take it apart to clean it or what pump top you use with it.


----------



## zmegati

Do all D5 pump can be controlled via software?

EK is in Slovenia and I've already ordered from them several times honestly I never even thought to look at them have they pumps.

Now I see they have

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor.html

Shiping only 10 euro


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> If you plan on using anything other than the stock top that comes on the pump, I'd advise getting a bare pump that comes without the top. Reason being, at least with the Swiftech(not sure about the other brands), that removing the stop top voids the warranty of the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think Swiftech sells their pumps without a top like XSPC / Alphacool / Aquacomputer / etc do. Swiftech isn't worried about people taking their pumps apart (though doing that will void the warranty). They changed their pump warranty policy because they were noticing higher than normal failure rates which they attributed to when their pumps were used with some pump tops from other manufacturers (which is why I don't think they sell their pumps without a top). They changed their pump warranty policy a few years back now so that opening one of their pumps up for any reason, whether just to clean or inspect it, or install a modified pump top, voids it.
> 
> If you look on some of the threads from people complaining about it after finding out the hard way. if you bought a Swiftech pump with a modified pump top already installed or purchased a pump top for it on the same order, as soon as Swiftech sees that on your receipt they deny the warranty claim. What's crazy is vendors like PPCs and FrozenCPU both sell Swiftech pumps with Bitspower pump tops already installed so the Swiftech warranty on the pump is shot on your $200 pump before you ever get it. No idea why they would use Swiftech pumps for that, though FrozenCPU's does have an option to get theirs with an Alphacool D5 instead.
> 
> Anyway, it's probably a good idea to get your Laing pump with a different reseller's sticker on it other than Swiftech. They're a good company, but there's no good reason to get the pump from them when so many others sell the exact same thing, often for cheaper, and they aren't worried about whether you take it apart to clean it or what pump top you use with it.
Click to expand...

Pretty certain the only pump they will pull you up on is the 35X or DDC pumps.....The D5 doesnt have the water ingress concern from a poorly fitted top that the DDC has.

And no D5/DDC in the world costs $200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is nothing wrong with it at all but the Vario is normally a similar price and is more powerful @ setting 5 over the fixed setting of 4.
> 
> Free performance is free neh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see what you mean. Good point.
Click to expand...

Just had a quick mooch thru Specialtech...the Vario is £10 cheaper than the cheapest D5/D4.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pretty certain the only pump they will pull you up on is the 35X or DDC pumps.....The D5 doesnt have the water ingress concern from a poorly fitted top that the DDC has.
> 
> And no D5/DDC in the world costs $200
> Just had a quick mooch thru Specialtech...the Vario is £10 cheaper than the cheapest D5/D4.


If anyone has any questions concerning our warranty on our pumps please PM me.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pretty certain the only pump they will pull you up on is the 35X or DDC pumps.....The D5 doesnt have the water ingress concern from a poorly fitted top that the DDC has.
> 
> *And no D5/DDC in the world costs $200*
> Just had a quick mooch thru Specialtech...the Vario is £10 cheaper than the cheapest D5/D4.


They do if you order it as a combo from FCPU or PPCS with the pump/top/upgrades!! But the pumps themselves range from about ~80$-130$ US.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If anyone has any questions concerning our warranty on our pumps please PM me.


you may as well just put it out here. if you dont, it looks like youre trying to hide that is very bad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pretty certain the only pump they will pull you up on is the 35X or DDC pumps.....The D5 doesnt have the water ingress concern from a poorly fitted top that the DDC has.
> 
> *And no D5/DDC in the world costs $200*
> Just had a quick mooch thru Specialtech...the Vario is £10 cheaper than the cheapest D5/D4.
> 
> 
> 
> They do if you order it as a combo from FCPU or PPCS with the pump/top/upgrades!! But the pumps themselves range from about ~80$-130$ US.
Click to expand...

Cheapest Vario i can get in the Uk is the XSPC Vario at a princely £56


----------



## zmegati

Honestly the few places I've read and a few youtube videos I saw they said that Swiftech MCP655 12 VDC Laing D5 Vario Pump safest and most quieter, but they I have no where to buy and that zhe postage is not the same as the price of the pump!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If anyone has any questions concerning our warranty on our pumps please PM me.


What about Block problems?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you may as well just put it out here. if you dont, it looks like youre trying to hide that is very bad.


OK, as our website states "Important warranty information: Users are reminded that disassembling their pump for any reason, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids the pump warranty." This includes the D5 variants as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Honestly the few places I've read and a few youtube videos I saw they said that *the 12 V DC Laing D5 Vario Pump* safest and most quieter, but they I have no where to buy and that zhe postage is not the same as the price of the pump!


e]

Fixed. All D5 pumps are made by Laing,Swiftech and the rest just plonk a sticker on it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you may as well just put it out here. if you dont, it looks like youre trying to hide that is very bad.
> 
> 
> 
> OK, as our website states "Important warranty information: Users are reminded that disassembling their pump for any reason, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids the pump warranty." This includes the D5 variants as well.
Click to expand...

And that has guaranteed I will never buy your pumps...along with your GPU blocks.









For shame Swiftech,the DDC I could kinda understand but the D5? No.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Honestly the few places I've read and a few youtube videos I saw they said that Swiftech MCP655 12 VDC Laing D5 Vario Pump safest and most quieter, but they I have no where to buy and that zhe postage is not the same as the price of the pump!


I'll still stick with the Alphacool D5 variable bare pump. Unless the quality control of everything being put out by them (swiftech) takes a turn for the better IMHO.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, as our website states "Important warranty information: Users are reminded that disassembling their pump for any reason, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids the pump warranty." This includes the D5 variants as well.


And that's why I won't recommend them.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> What about Block problems?


What block are you having issues with and what are they?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, as our website states "Important warranty information: Users are reminded that disassembling their pump for any reason, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids the pump warranty." This includes the D5 variants as well.


which is what was stated. use a swiftech as it comes from swiftech or the warranty is void.
i understand the warranty from replacing user error failures but, really? if you remove the top and the pump breaks, throw it away. is there a sidenote in there for manufacturing defects?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, as our website states "Important warranty information: Users are reminded that disassembling their pump for any reason, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids the pump warranty." This includes the D5 variants as well.
> 
> 
> 
> And that's why I won't recommend them.
Click to expand...

Whats making me laugh is the Swiftech rep is running an Alphacool top.....maybe because his companies pump top warranty stance is ridiculous.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, as our website states "Important warranty information: Users are reminded that disassembling their pump for any reason, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids the pump warranty." This includes the D5 variants as well.


Assuming this does not apply to your PWM version that comes without a housing?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=36120

Quote from listing:
Quote:


> This pump comes stock without any housing allowing you to integrate any of your favorite pump tops and pump accessories.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, as our website states "Important warranty information: Users are reminded that disassembling their pump for any reason, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids the pump warranty." This includes the D5 variants as well.


Out of curiosity what about this one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=g30c107s1802

They are sell bare without top.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Assuming this does not apply to your PWM version that comes without a housing?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=36120
> 
> Quote from listing:


That's correct. Those are the exception because they don't come with any housing installed.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What block are you having issues with and what are they?


The three blocks on my Hydro Copper GTX580's, I bought them when they were brand new, then found out we were going to have a baby, so the whole build was put on hold. Finally, about 6 months ago, I was able to spend the money to complete the build. Opened up the sealed boxes, and find that ALL three cards have the delrin part of the blocks mis-machined. All three cards have the holes in different locations. So the only style of connector I could use would be barbs/flex tube. ANY rigid or expandable SLI connector won't line up, I mean like 2-3mm out in BOTH X and Y axis. I sent back to evga, they said its swiftech problem, called swiftech in SoCal, the (I'm guessing French by the accent) guy told me it's an evga problem....... So I'm just trying to find some EK blocks to replace them with.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's correct. Those are the exception because they don't come with any housing installed.


Ok, thanks









I figured but wanted to verify since we were on the topic, lol


----------



## zmegati

And we finally concluded everyone has their own favorite!

Now when I look safest for me is EKWB pump Slovenia is closer and shiping is lowe for me...I hope you will not regret it!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> And we finally concluded everyone has their own favorite!
> 
> Now when I look safest for me is EKWB pump Slovenia is closer and shiping is lowe for me...I hope you will not regret it!


EK is solid. You will be fine


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The three blocks on my Hydro Copper GTX580's, I bought them when they were brand new, then found out we were going to have a baby, so the whole build was put on hold. Finally, about 6 months ago, I was able to spend the money to complete the build. Opened up the sealed boxes, and find that ALL three cards have the delrin part of the blocks mis-machined. All three cards have the holes in different locations. So the only style of connector I could use would be barbs/flex tube. ANY rigid or expandable SLI connector won't line up, I mean like 2-3mm out in BOTH X and Y axis. I sent back to evga, they said its swiftech problem, called swiftech in SoCal, the (I'm guessing French by the accent) guy told me it's an evga problem....... So I'm just trying to find some EK blocks to replace them with.


Well the French person you talked with is most likely Gabe the CEO. If that's what he told you then there is nothing else that I can do for you. We never carried those blocks and all of the materials for repairing them or replacing them would be with EVGA.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Thanks, ya I like to use them also because they are in the same state as me. Shipping times are usually great.


Hate paying the tx tho.... but now amazon charging tax so i figure newegg and others not far behind. used to be politicos were against it cause their local businesses were going and didn't wanna stunt that..... but now with sales tax revenue dropping precipitously from brick and mortars, thyey trying to figure how to plug budget gaps.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Well the French person you talked with is most likely Gabe the CEO. If that's what he told you then there is nothing else that I can do for you. We never carried those blocks and all of the materials for repairing them or replacing them would be with EVGA.


Sweet. Thank you.

Edit: just a thought, if you aren't going to have a part in warranty issues with the blocks you sell to evga, you might think about taking your company name off of them. Not really good press in my eyes due to that.


----------



## ozzy1925

i already asked this question aquaero 6 section but i think better to ask here:
Can i connect 2xd5 aqua computer aquabus usb pumps to aq6 xt and control their speed together with 1x Flow sensor mps aquabus installed?


----------



## zmegati

Now I remembered that I did not published current water cooling system!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i already asked this question aquaero 6 section but i think better to ask here:
> Can i connect 2xd5 aqua computer aquabus usb pumps to aq6 xt and control their speed together with 1x Flow sensor mps aquabus installed?


Yes.
You can just connect usb to the mobo and use the Aquasuite instead or use the Aquabus.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Now I remembered that I did not published current water cooling system!


great job with the blue and copper on black!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes.
> You can just connect usb to the mobo and use the Aquasuite instead or use the Aquabus.


I believe you can even use a Y-splitter for the Aquabus interface. If you use two of those you would be able to connect all three devices through Aquabus to the aquaero.

At least, that's what I understood from what shoggy explained to me through PM (regarding two D5's connected over aquabus) if you want to be sure you might want to PM him, and of course post your findings here!


----------



## Gunderman456

Since this is my first watercooling set-up, you have to excuse me.

I already asked about how compression fittings should be tightened to the actual hardware. The answer was hand tightening. This is sound advice since the O rubber ring will catch and prevent leaks, so no need to use a tool to tighten. It was too late for me though since I had used a wrench to tighten which caused metal flaking, which is scary. I cleaned the metal shavings as best as I could but I'm hoping that none of these shavings got onto the PCBs. I was also worried that I may have damaged the threads on the CPU and GPU blocks. I had to revisit these in some instances and change the status of the compression fittings and I can safely say that the threads did not suffer any damage. I subsequently used my hand to tighten these, although a bit paranoid, I did use a wrench/face towel to complete a 1/2 twist for additional security which did not cause any metal shavings.

Additionally, someone else also confirmed that one should tighten by hand the compression fittings over the hoses. Again, yesterday while I was connecting the hoses to the compression fittings to get that perfect seal, I could not manage enough hand torque to tighten all the way. Again I was forced to use a wrench. Of course this also caused more metal shavings that I had to clean. Now looking at the watercooling pics in this thread, I see that in many instances there are gaps between the compression fittings over the hoses since they were not always screwed all the way.

I may have the most seal proof custom loop, but will be a pain talking apart for cleaning in the future.

My question being - is it ok to not have a perfect seal between the compression fittings when securing the hoses?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes.
> You can just connect usb to the mobo and use the Aquasuite instead or use the Aquabus.


no chance to control them with the xt unit?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> I believe you can even use a Y-splitter for the Aquabus interface. If you use two of those you would be able to connect all three devices through Aquabus to the aquaero.
> 
> At least, that's what I understood from what shoggy explained to me through PM (regarding two D5's connected over aquabus) if you want to be sure you might want to PM him, and of course post your findings here!


can you please show this y splitter to me?


----------



## Ragsters

Just a heads up guys. Jab-tech has the Gentle Typhoons AP-15 on sale for $13.56 plus 5% off using "Facebook" as a promocode. Had to cancel my order with Sidewinder because of how good this deal is.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just a heads up guys. Jab-tech has the Gentle Typhoons AP-15 on sale for $13.56 plus 5% off using "Facebook" as a promocode. Had to cancel my order with Sidewinder because of how good this deal is.


34 left in stock, g/l ! and hope it's up to date, I've had several orders canceled a few times ago, this being one of the sites. Think I might order 6 more in case I grab a 360 for my case.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just a heads up guys. Jab-tech has the Gentle Typhoons AP-15 on sale for $13.56 plus 5% off using "Facebook" as a promocode. Had to cancel my order with Sidewinder because of how good this deal is.


Begin the hoarding of GT's!


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is it possible to connect them directly to aq 6?
> can you please show this y splitter to me?


http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p13256_Aquacomputer-aquabus-Y-cable-4-Pin.html


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Think I might order 6 more in case I grab a 360 for my case.


Good idea in case you move to the middle of the Sahara desert and add 8 more GPUs to your system since that would overwhelm your current rad space


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p13256_Aquacomputer-aquabus-Y-cable-4-Pin.html


any 4 pin y- cable does the job or only the one you listed?


----------



## pc-illiterate

no reason to hoard the gt fans. nidec servo will continue to make the fans.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no reason to hoard the gt fans. nidec servo will continue to make the fans.


Can you post the article that states this?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Just a heads-up.

Seems the reports of the death of the Gentle Typhoon have been greatly exaggerated.

Apparently Nidec Servo owns both the design and the trademark for the name Gentle Typhoon (despite earlier purported statements from Scythe saying they owned it) and Nidec has responded with an email stating that they have no plans to stop making them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> SUCCESS!!.....and you guys thought I was crazy for emailing them.
> 
> 
> 
> I redacted the guy's email so he wouldn't get spammed. It's legit, I did not doctor this or anything. I sent an email to Nidec mentioning the rumors that have been floating around and asked if the relationship between Nidec and Scythe were indeed coming to and end, if they planned to continue manufacturing the fans under their own label.
> 
> So, it looks like the GT will continue to be manufactured, Scythe is just out of the loop.


This all started with a posting on FrozenCPU's facebook page where Scythe claimed that they "_Scythe reserves the right to the name Gentle Typhoon_" but the US Patent and Trademark Office says that Nidec Servo is the owner of the trademark _Gentle Typhoon._




Starting to seem like Scythe created the rumor just to cash in whatever they could before Nidec goes on selling Gentle Typhoons without them.

EDIT:
Stick a fork in it. This rumor is done:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Just a heads-up.
> 
> Seems the reports of the death of the Gentle Typhoon have been greatly exaggerated.
> 
> Apparently Nidec Servo owns both the design and the trademark for the name Gentle Typhoon (despite earlier purported statements from Scythe saying they owned it) and Nidec has responded with an email stating that they have no plans to stop making them.
> This all started with a posting on FrozenCPU's facebook page where Scythe claimed that they "_Scythe reserves the right to the name Gentle Typhoon_" but the US Patent and Trademark Office says that Nidec Servo is the owner of the trademark _Gentle Typhoon._
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to seem like Scythe created the rumor just to cash in whatever they could before Nidec goes on selling Gentle Typhoons without them.




@ all the additional money I spent worrying they were leaving.....


----------



## iCrap




----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ all the additional money I spent worrying they were leaving.....


lol, at least they are all going in your current build which you needed 32 fans for anyway didn't you?

I stocked up on 12 more of them myself for some future build(s) I haven't even really thought of yet ...



And then, on top of that, I just ordered 6 more a few minutes ago from Jab-tech after hearing about the sale price here ...



lol


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, at least they are all going in your current build which you needed 32 fans for anyway didn't you?
> 
> I stocked up on 12 more of them myself for some future build(s) I haven't even really thought of yet ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then, on top of that, I just ordered 6 more a few minutes ago from Jab-tech after hearing about the sale price here ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Technically mine came sleeved in color of choice so wasn't too bad I guess. That + they survived a snowstorm and falling off the conveyor belt in a USPS facility. Tough beasts.


----------



## MiiX

Did the same "mistake" bought 6 of them, but there I do need 3 of them, and I payed only $8 each


----------



## VSG

Saw someone post a sketch of his/her future build plan and this is too beautiful to not share:


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Is it normal for my fixed speed D5 to be the loudest thing in my PC? I have 3 AP-15s at 12V and a stock fractal fan (no noise- but little airflow lol).
It's not making bad noises or anything, just a high pitched hum. In a Monsoon Bay Res.


----------



## cyphon

Anyone have a recommendation for a res that would be mounted horizontally?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Anyone have a recommendation for a res that would be mounted horizontally?


I used a 250mm Bitspower tube res horizontally suspended from my top fans in an old TJ07 build. Worked just fine.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Anyone have a recommendation for a res that would be mounted horizontally?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I used a 250mm Bitspower tube res horizontally suspended from my top fans in an old TJ07 build. Worked just fine.


I'll have two Bitspower Z-Multi 250 reservoirs mounted horizontally in the build I'm working on now


----------



## subsven

You guys think your loops are awesome? Check out these idle temps baby.











I didn't take a screen shot of Precision X this morning, but both of my 780 Ti's were running at 6-7c first thing this morning as well, lol.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> You guys think your loops are awesome? Check out these idle temps baby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take a screen shot of Precision X this morning, but both of my 780 Ti's were running at 6-7c first thing this morning as well, lol.


Blimey, just how cold is the room you keep your computer in!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> You guys think your loops are awesome? Check out these idle temps baby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take a screen shot of Precision X this morning, but both of my 780 Ti's were running at 6-7c first thing this morning as well, lol.


That means your house is just as cold. Lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> You guys think your loops are awesome? Check out these idle temps baby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take a screen shot of Precision X this morning, but both of my 780 Ti's were running at 6-7c first thing this morning as well, lol.












Here's how I picture you getting those temps ...


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how I picture you getting those temps ...


LOL


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My 2nd Alphacool Rad arrived today from PPCs, while all the fins are in perfect shape. It has a huge dent on the shell. Why would they ship a Rad in such a tiny box with hardly anything on it is beyond me.


----------



## szeged

wow holy .....that dent what the hell ppcs. are you gonna send it back? i would.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> wow holy .....that dent what the hell ppcs. are you gonna send it back? i would.


Yep, it's going right back to PerformancePCs. Can't beleive the box it was sent it.


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how I picture you getting those temps ...


I LOL'd. Basically, I live in PA and have oil fueled boiler/radiator heating with three separate thermostats (Basement, 1st floor, 2nd floor). The oil is pretty expensive, but it heats the house damn fast, so when I go to bed at night I turn the heat off downstairs, and then use electric heat in my bedroom. I think it was about 4*F outside this morning, and about 40*F downstairs when I took these temps. I don't usually run my box 24/7, but I just reinstalled Windows this weekend and was doing massive Steam/Origin/Battle.net downloads all night. (I get 85 Mbps downloads, so the computer was idle for a few hours before I took the temps).


----------



## subsven

Also, haven't had time to tune the new overclock yet (new 780 Ti's), so everything was running at stock. My loop consists of a 120 rad, 240 rad, and an RX480, all powered by an MCP-35x2.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yep, it's going right back to PerformancePCs. Can't beleive the box it was sent it.


My Phobya Rads came with little to no protection. Alphacool need to start packaging their products a bit better. For that matter, EK also aught to.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My Phobya Rads came with little to no protection. Alphacool need to start packaging their products a bit better. For that matter, EK also aught to.


\

Its up the to the retailer/seller. Mostly all rads have just a bit of padding and their retail box. Its up the store selling them to pack them properly in a shipping box to the client. My three Monstas had a bit of paper in them for cushioning but that was it. They did arrived unscathed.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My Phobya Rads came with little to no protection. Alphacool need to start packaging their products a bit better. For that matter, EK also aught to.


At least EK's boxes look pretty.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> \
> 
> Its up the to the retailer/seller. Mostly all rads have just a bit of padding and their retail box. Its up the store selling them to pack them properly in a shipping box to the client. My three Monstas had a bit of paper in them for cushioning but that was it. They did arrived unscathed.


All this is true, but it would help a bit if more padding was included within the retail box.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> All this is true, but it would help a bit if more padding was included within the retail box.


They come in a bit of bubble wrap and a cardboard box. Which is about the same as the BI, EK, Swiftech, and XSPC rads I've owned.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yep, it's going right back to PerformancePCs. Can't beleive the box it was sent it.


That looks like someone threw the box off an airplane and jumped on it for good measure


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That looks like someone threw the box off an airplane and jumped on it for good measure


Funny thing is that there is no damage on the boxes. It might have been dropped before it was packaged.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> My question being - is it ok to not have a perfect seal between the compression fittings when securing the hoses?


Yes it is ok in my experience. I suppose some guys have strong enough fingers to tighten them all completely but I sure don't. And yes a wrench is a bad idea as you disovered if only cause it scuffs them (tape over the wrench can help but just makes it more difficult). Only use a wrench if you cant fully tighten the fitting itself into the component as has happened to me on occasion especially in tight spots.

I have never had a tube come off except a bit on one side because of too much bend and even then it did not actually leak.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Since this is my first watercooling set-up, you have to excuse me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I already asked about how compression fittings should be tightened to the actual hardware. The answer was hand tightening. This is sound advice since the O rubber ring will catch and prevent leaks, so no need to use a tool to tighten. It was too late for me though since I had used a wrench to tighten which caused metal flaking, which is scary. I cleaned the metal shavings as best as I could but I'm hoping that none of these shavings got onto the PCBs. I was also worried that I may have damaged the threads on the CPU and GPU blocks. I had to revisit these in some instances and change the status of the compression fittings and I can safely say that the threads did not suffer any damage. I subsequently used my hand to tighten these, although a bit paranoid, I did use a wrench/face towel to complete a 1/2 twist for additional security which did not cause any metal shavings.
> 
> Additionally, someone else also confirmed that one should tighten by hand the compression fittings over the hoses. Again, yesterday while I was connecting the hoses to the compression fittings to get that perfect seal, I could not manage enough hand torque to tighten all the way. Again I was forced to use a wrench. Of course this also caused more metal shavings that I had to clean. Now looking at the watercooling pics in this thread, I see that in many instances there are gaps between the compression fittings over the hoses since they were not always screwed all the way.
> 
> I may have the most seal proof custom loop, but will be a pain talking apart for cleaning in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> My question being - is it ok to not have a perfect seal between the compression fittings when securing the hoses?


Hand tight is all that's needed. I would _never_ put a wrench on one when tightening it, and if I ever had a compression screwed all the way down tight I'd know that something was wrong, most likely I had the wrong thickness of hose in it. It's not supposed to screw down completely. If you put them on too tight you risk damaging the hose inside and causing a leak, if you don't also damage the compression fitting or whatever it is screwed into. That's especially true for any fittings screwed into acrylic or acetal.

I have had to use a wrench before to remove some compressions that had been on there a while and wouldn't budge. Took apart one of my brother's builds and every one of them was like that, so I ground the ridges on the jaws of a pair of pliers almost smooth and wrapped them in electrical tape (later on I put some heatshrink on them) so that they wouldn't damage the compression collars in the process.

Also, as I did mention yesterday on this topic, I've personally found that ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Coated palm work gloves are worth their weight in gold imho when assembling a build (or working on anything really, like replacing a faucet or a car battery or ...). They don't cost much, are comfortable and don't get in the way even when working with tiny parts, keep fingerprints off everything, and totally save your fingers from turning into hamburger from twisting and tightening compressions, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> I've gotten so used to using them that my hands feel naked without them whenever I'm working on pretty much anything. I literally keep new pairs here, there, and everywhere.
> 
> Tip: Wear them small-sized / tight-fitting for your hands.


I've found I get a lot better grip grabbing & turning compressions, especially in tight places, when wearing coated work gloves.


----------



## DarthBaggins

yeah I tightened all my fittings to blocks at hand tight, as I am prone to over tightening things, lol. But remember when you bleed/flush you check for leaks either way too.

Those nitrile dipped gloves are great I go through a pair a month w/ my work since sometimes re-using latex/nitrile gloves can be a pain when in a hurry to put a customer's car back together.


----------



## jokrik

Cut the AC backplate to fit my RIVBE
So happy it worked out


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Looks great man! Glad you were able to save it!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I found this cheap bench saw to be very good for cutting acrylic tube. Built quality is obviously not it's forte, but it gets nice clean cuts, fast and easy. I thought Id share.

http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-cut-off-saw-42307.html


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> any 4 pin y- cable does the job or only the one you listed?


Bump for you..
sorry I'm not sure, I think it has different pitch than the normal 4-pin but someone more experienced should answer.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> You guys think your loops are awesome? Check out these idle temps baby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take a screen shot of Precision X this morning, but both of my 780 Ti's were running at 6-7c first thing this morning as well, lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how I picture you getting those temps ...


Dear United States, please trade Weather with us?


----------



## pc-illiterate




----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Dear United States, please trade Weather with us?


I live in Singapore. Wanna trade?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Progress...

-


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Progress...
> 
> -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was just wondering how your build was coming along. looking awesome so far!


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Progress...


Where does it exit the GPUs? or is that not finished yet?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Where does it exit the GPUs? or is that not finished yet?


That left lower part isn't finished yet. The gpu's exit from the to into the mobo block and from there to the res, which you can see now. The gpu's will be fed through the bottom, through the floor.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That left lower part isn't finished yet. The gpu's exit from the to into the mobo block and from there to the res, which you can see now. The gpu's will be fed through the bottom, through the floor.


Ahh I see, I didn't notice the pedestal below. looks great!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Funny thing is that there is no damage on the boxes. It might have been dropped before it was packaged.


man thats really bad :/ i am really confused now because i was going to order 2 alphacool rads and i tought it would be safer with ppc packaging other than fcpu Did they use peanut foam?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> man thats really bad :/ i am really confused now because i was going to order 2 alphacool rads and i tought it would be safer with ppc packaging other than fcpu Did they use peanut foam?


I've had more damaged stuff show up from PPCS than FCPU by a long shot!! They don't put enough ghost turds (styrofoam peanuts) to immobilize the items being shipped, so the product is just swimming in it but can still move around.. The way FCPU does it with the paper fill has been way better for my shipments at least.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> I live in Singapore. Wanna trade?


If I wont be swimming in ball soup I'd love to


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> man thats really bad :/ i am really confused now because i was going to order 2 alphacool rads and i tought it would be safer with ppc packaging other than fcpu Did they use peanut foam?


Frozen used way better packaging.


----------



## Jimhans1

Hey, has anybody here had any experience with the XSPC AX-series rads? I don't usually use XSPC stuff, but I like the way the rads themselves look, and their 360mm might fit in an AIR 540 build I'm gonna do along with a 240.......


----------



## tecuarenta

The best way to start a working day is seeing this:


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> The best way to start a working day is seeing this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good times sir!!! You will love your case! Are you going to do a build log on it??


----------



## spikezone2004

i just ordered from ppcs and my st30 rad was fine however one of my leds for my block was broken but they responded fast and forwarded it to the company and there shipping me a new one out


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Good times sir!!! You will love your case! Are you going to do a build log on it??


I believe I am supposed to, right?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> If I wont be swimming in ball soup I'd love to


LOLOLOL


----------



## Hefner

A real man is willing to sacrifice temparature for a nice OC.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey, has anybody here had any experience with the XSPC AX-series rads? I don't usually use XSPC stuff, but I like the way the rads themselves look, and their 360mm might fit in an AIR 540 build I'm gonna do along with a 240.......


I got a AX480 and I have no issues recommending the AX series.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> A real man is willing to sacrifice temparature for a nice OC.


Wat


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> A real man is willing to sacrifice temparature for a nice OC.


A real man is willing to take powertools to his chassis for better temps


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Wat


As in, not turning on the heater and have ambient temps of 0-5°C.


----------



## BradleyW

Run open bench and throw the rads in a mini freezer with holes to accommodate the tubing! Surely that would help right?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Run open bench and throw the rads in a mini freezer with holes to accommodate the tubing! Surely that would help right?


Lol I'd like to see someone do that


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Run open bench and throw the rads in a mini freezer with holes to accommodate the tubing! Surely that would help right?


Until you get condensation on the blocks and start frying components


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Run open bench and throw the rads in a mini freezer with holes to accommodate the tubing! Surely that would help right?


as i read somewhere that wont work because the humidity on the rads move to the components with the tubing


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> As in, not turning on the heater and have ambient temps of 0-5°C.


Nvm, 30c amb here.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Until you get condensation on the blocks and start frying components


But the temperatures for those next 10 minutes after placing the rads in the freezer would be so good!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Dehumidifier lol


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Saw someone post a sketch of his/her future build plan and this is too beautiful to not share:


Where did you see it from?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol I'd like to see someone do that


http://www.overclock.net/t/775713/slappas-slushbox-phenom-ii-1090t-x6-4-8ghz-4-25ghz-p95-stable


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Where did you see it from?


Someone linked this on a Reddit thread yesterday.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey, has anybody here had any experience with the XSPC AX-series rads? I don't usually use XSPC stuff, but I like the way the rads themselves look, and their 360mm might fit in an AIR 540 build I'm gonna do along with a 240.......


I currently have the ax360 (white) installed and recieved the ax480 (white) yesterday in the mail. In my opinion I think the AX series rads are one of the best looking ones out there. I like them so much I dont want any fans to cover them that is why I got my Sm8 top.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I got a AX480 and I have no issues recommending the AX series.


The AX series from XSPC are very good, I had 2 480's and the only reason I got rid of them and changed to EK rads was due to a falling out with the company on support for other components. But the performance and the look on the AX rads is very solid.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I currently have the ax360 (white) installed and recieved the ax480 (white) yesterday in the mail. *In my opinion I think the AX series rads are one of the best looking ones out there*. I like them so much I dont want any fans to cover them that is why I got my Sm8 top.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> The AX series from XSPC are very good, I had 2 480's and the only reason I got rid of them and changed to EK rads was due to a falling out with the company on support for other components. But the performance and *the look on the AX rads is very solid.*


I'm exact opposite. I really don't like how the look. Too "boxy' for my taste and I don't like the bar running across the fin between each fan spot. I much prefer the look of the AC NexXxos and HWL radiators. Looks all come down to personal opinion though.


----------



## VSG

^ I like both so I got one XSPC AX and one Alphacool Monsta


----------



## Dzuks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Progress...
> 
> -






That's coming together pretty nicely James. Good proportion of acrylic and fittings.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I've seen a few people say it's bad for the PWM electronics to try to control it via voltage. May depend on the fan though.


I'd be very surprised to see that supported by any legitimate evidence.


----------



## gdubc

Head over to the h22o forum. Voltage control on that pwm pump is a guaranteed killer.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> I'd be very surprised to see that supported by any legitimate evidence.


The reason this is an issue is because a PWM device is designed to run on a constant voltage. There is a separate signal that directs the device to modulate its speed. If you try to control a PWM device by reducing the voltage this can potentially damage the device.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My 2nd Alphacool Rad arrived today from PPCs, while all the fins are in perfect shape. It has a huge dent on the shell. Why would they ship a Rad in such a tiny box with hardly anything on it is beyond me.


That just happened to me 2 days ago so I feel your pain. Sorry that happened. You get so excited your package finally came and then have to see that. Hopefully you get the replacement fast. Frozencpu is amazing and my replacement will be here tommorrow.


----------



## Anoxy

There needs to be a used fitting trade-in program. When you get bored of one color, send them all in and get a new color for a small fee


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm exact opposite. I really don't like how the look. Too "boxy' for my taste and I don't like the bar running across the fin between each fan spot. I much prefer the look of the AC NexXxos and HWL radiators. Looks all come down to personal opinion though.


The "boxy" look matches my sm8 pretty well.


----------



## Belial

Does anyone know the true lengths of the following reservoirs:

EK X2 Advanced 250
EK X2 Advanced 400
EK X3 250
EK X3 400
Phobya Balancer 250

??? I've come to learn these reservoirs are actually not the length as described, and I'm working with some tight clearances. Like I know the X3 is only 354mm according to EK.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Does anyone know the true lengths of the following reservoirs:
> 
> EK X2 Advanced 250
> EK X2 Advanced 400
> EK X3 250
> EK X3 400
> Phobya Balancer 250
> 
> ??? I've come to learn these reservoirs are actually not the length as described, and I'm working with some tight clearances. Like I know the X3 is only 354mm according to EK.


My EK X2 Advanced 250 and EK X3 250 seem to be 250 mm


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> That just happened to me 2 days ago so I feel your pain. Sorry that happened. You get so excited your package finally came and then have to see that. Hopefully you get the replacement fast. Frozencpu is amazing and my replacement will be here tommorrow.


PerformancePCs sent me a replacement and return label. So, I should receive it by Monday.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Y Check out these idle temps baby.


I hope thatz not a DW loop with water temps are below freezing...... you buy ya coolant from Mayhems or Prestone ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Y Check out these idle temps baby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take a screen shot of Precision X this morning, but both of my 780 Ti's were running at 6-7c first thing this morning as well, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope thatz not a DW loop with water temps are below freezing...... you buy ya coolant from Mayhems or Prestone ?
Click to expand...

Those temps are Celsius (freezing is 0 degrees). not Fahrenheit (freezing is 32 degrees), and since none are negative, none are below freezing.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Head over to the h22o forum. Voltage control on that pwm pump is a guaranteed killer.


well we were talking about fans before. generally fans that have PWM also have VC. pumps are a different matter entirely. they're not a modified fan with an extra IC, they're basically modified aquarium pumps. I would not lump the two into the same category.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Does anyone know the true lengths of the following reservoirs:
> 
> EK X2 Advanced 250
> EK X2 Advanced 400
> EK X3 250
> EK X3 400
> Phobya Balancer 250
> 
> ??? I've come to learn these reservoirs are actually not the length as described, and I'm working with some tight clearances. Like I know the X3 is only 354mm according to EK.


I'll be able to tell you about the phobia balancer in a few hours as min is enrout


----------



## famous1994

Edit: Wrong Thread


----------



## cyphon

With all the rads coming in jacked up I suppose I am lucky lol. Got a 120mm UT60 (from PPCs) for an HTPC build. Arrived flawless with no dents, cracks, nor bent fins.


----------



## Deano12345

Right, have my loop finalised. Anything I'm missing here ? I think I have enough fittings and everything, just want to post my cart up here to be sure !


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Right, have my loop finalised. Anything I'm missing here ? I think I have enough fittings and everything, just want to post my cart up here to be sure !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You may want to add a few angled adapter just to be safe. They may not be necessary, but from my experience, it's better to have them and not need them than to need them and not have them


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You may want to add a few angled adapter just to be safe. They may not be necessary, but from my experience, it's better to have them and not need them than to need them and not have them


Noted ! The entire logic behind this loop is better to be safe that sorry ! Excited to finally go with my own loop


----------



## NYMD

Idiot ahead alert......

I can't find one of the gaskets (o-rings) that came with my Aquacomputer Aqualis pump mount and 150 reservoir. Can I use the one from the top of the res and just run with one on the bottom?

Alternately, does anyone have an extra one in North America they'd like to sell? or know of a retailer? Aquacomputer's website is the only place I've found them and it is almost 40 EUR just for shipping.

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3055


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Idiot ahead alert......
> 
> I can't find one of the gaskets (o-rings) that came with my Aquacomputer Aqualis pump mount and 150 reservoir. Can I use the one from the top of the res and just run with one on the bottom?
> 
> Alternately, does anyone have an extra one in North America they'd like to sell? or know of a retailer? Aquacomputer's website is the only place I've found them and it is almost 40 EUR just for shipping.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3055


I bet you could take the one you still have to a hardware store and they might have one that would work. I know the small mom-and-pop hardware store down the street has a massive o-ring selection and I've actually bought replacement o-rings for my Bitspower and EK fittings there


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I bet you could take the one you still have to a hardware store and they might have one that would work. I know the small mom-and-pop hardware store down the street has a massive o-ring selection and I've actually bought replacement o-rings for my Bitspower and EK fittings there


Yea i bet you're right. And even if it isn't exact, this isn't a precise fit spot since it just squishes between the glass res and the acetal top. Thanks!


----------



## gdubc

Op said pwm electronics, that's why I mentioned h220.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Yea i bet you're right. And even if it isn't exact, this isn't a precise fit spot since it just squishes between the glass res and the acetal top. Thanks!


----------



## Gunderman456

Thanks to those that replied to my inquiry! My first custom loop and I've learned so much already.

I've also realized while many of us tend to cover the bigger things in our how toos, we often don't talk about the little things like "take care to hand tighten all compression fittings to avoid metal shavings, damaging waterblock threads, damaging O rings and perforating tubes".

I had tightened using a wrench, and luckily no damages were incurred other then the metal shavings which I had to clean, but next time I will be hand tightening everything.

Your combined advise will be included in my new "The Hawaiian Heat Wave" build log.


----------



## NYMD

I'm about ready to leak test.





See anything obviously wrong? Thanks!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Does anyone know the true lengths of the following reservoirs:
> 
> EK X2 Advanced 250
> EK X2 Advanced 400
> EK X3 250
> EK X3 400
> Phobya Balancer 250
> 
> ??? I've come to learn these reservoirs are actually not the length as described, and I'm working with some tight clearances. Like I know the X3 is only 354mm according to EK.
> 
> 
> 
> My EK X2 Advanced 250 and EK X3 250 seem to be 250 mm
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks! It must be that the basic x2 250 is smaller then 250. I think the email I got from EK might have been misleading:
Quote:


> (in response to how big the x3 400 is with the multiport top)
> EK Multiport top add 36,6mm. Total height is 390,6 mm.


390.6 - 36.6 = 354mm, the size of the replacement tube for the 400. So I'm guessing that this measurement is without the bottom cap, which im guessing is same as multiport cap.

so maybe if i could get an advanced x2 400... I really need like a 280 to 400m res, more or less wont work for me, very tight clearances in my build. I might just make my own res really, since its so easy and costs the same.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Koolance brand!!!!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1457870/koolance-problems

NEVER RETURN TO PURCHASE THE BRAND KOOLANCE!


----------



## Gunderman456

I undersatnd that one can use a paper clip to the green and any black wire to power jump the PSU to fill up water loop with coolant for first time.

Except, all the wires on my EVGA 1300w are black. So do I use the paper clip on Power Ok and Ground on the power connector?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I undersatnd that one can use a paper clip to the green and any black wire to power jump the PSU to fill up water loop with coolant for first time.
> 
> Except, all the wires on my EVGA 1300w are black. So do I use the paper clip on Power Ok and Ground on the power connector?


it will always be these cables



no matter the color, i have jumped the evga 1300w ones like this every time.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I undersatnd that one can use a paper clip to the green and any black wire to power jump the PSU to fill up water loop with coolant for first time.
> 
> Except, all the wires on my EVGA 1300w are black. So do I use the paper clip on Power Ok and Ground on the power connector?


Yeah my AX850 has all black wires as well, sucks to jump it without a diagram.

Use this diagram, line up the notches correctly and connect the black and green pin together (Pins 3 and 4 or pins 4 and 5 from the right side going from top to bottom).


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I undersatnd that one can use a paper clip to the green and any black wire to power jump the PSU to fill up water loop with coolant for first time.
> 
> Except, all the wires on my EVGA 1300w are black. So do I use the paper clip on Power Ok and Ground on the power connector?


Easy way to remember it:
- Hold the connector with the clip to the right.
- Count from top to bottom on the row on the right side (closest to clip)
- The 4th pin is PS_ON, jump that to either pin directly above or below


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey, has anybody here had any experience with the XSPC AX-series rads? I don't usually use XSPC stuff, but I like the way the rads themselves look, and their 360mm might fit in an AIR 540 build I'm gonna do along with a 240.......


I'm running an AX360 and an AX240 in my 540 case Jim, and I think you've already peeped my rig.

Full push/pull with 25mm thick fans is out of the question for the AX360 with an AX240 mounted on top, _and_ you'll need to have the fans mounted outside the chassis since there's only 15mm clearance (give or take) between the two rads with the 240 ports at the rear, and they practically touch if you orient the 240 ports to the front (looks nice and clean boxed in like that though). Some quick work with a drill could get you more clearance, maybe enough to allow internal AX360 fans, if you eschew the factory mounting holes and make your own to shift the 240 closer to the rear of the case.

You _can_ run the 360 with ports at the top if you have the 240 ports to the rear, but it'll require some low profile 90 degree rotaries to make it work (XSPC or Koolance sized, _maybe_ BP,and EK, and definitely not Monsoon). I just opted to run ports down and deal with the extra bleeding hassles (which really wasn't that bad, thanks mostly because even fully loaded and topped off with fluid, the 540 is still an easy case to flip around to burp).

Upside, with the AX360 ports on the bottom, it made for very clean and short tubing runs, but I'm of the "less visible tubing the better" school along with the "use a angle rotary to avoid tubing curve, restriction be damned" school. If I can't hide them, I like my tubes to be as straight as possible, aesthetically. Really tempted to buy a bunch of G1/4 extenders and see if I can make a screw-together loop with as little flex tubing as possible.









But getting back to the AX rads, all in all, they're clean looking, high quality rads that perform well and complement the 540 nicely, but they can limit your fan and mounting options. I really like the way the core can be removed from the outer casing for easy cleaning, or modding/painting the casing. Totally don't regret my choice, though my build would have been easier and allowed me more fan and plumbing options with slimmer 30mm rads, no doubt about it.


----------



## Gunderman456

Thanks guys!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That's a beauty of a PSU ya got there! I'm jelly!


----------



## LunaP

Finally getting there... ran into a hiccup w/ fittings and apparently primochill revolvers are too big to do SLI so ordered a quick overnight back of SLI connectors (extendables ) other than that if it arrives tomorrow I"ll be ready to leak test.

Samus is staying in here as well as adding the baby metroid and possibly something else and have to do some work for scenery w/o destroying the look.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Looking good but I'm still not getting the two reservoirs? You could eliminate both of those long acrylic tubes by just running the top rad back to the top of the tube res and then going out from the bottom of the res...


----------



## VSG

He has a bay res/pump combo. I think that pump may have an issue pumping coolant up that tube reservoir though.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> He has a bay res/pump combo. I think that pump may have an issue pumping coolant up that tube reservoir though.


There was a big debate on this about 15 pages back or so but it came down to as long as I filled up the Tube res I should be fine.


----------



## rickyman0319

do u need 2 of each ( reservoir and pump) in order to work?


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Finally getting there... ran into a hiccup w/ fittings and apparently primochill revolvers are too big to do SLI so ordered a quick overnight back of SLI connectors (extendables ) other than that if it arrives tomorrow I"ll be ready to leak test.
> 
> Samus is staying in here as well as adding the baby metroid and possibly something else and have to do some work for scenery w/o destroying the look.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good LunaP...









I wanted to use revolvers for my SLI connect, but I knew right off it wouldn't work with tri-SLI. I didn't want to use an EK bridge because I didn't want to cover the beauty of the RIV BE mobo... and the nice shiny black EK back plates... with a big EK block. I used 4 Bitspower Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe in parallel, and I think it looks great. Down side, it costs more than an EK SLI bridge.

Anyhow... mine has been been done since new years day... and I love it. I hated waiting so long for the RIV BE... but I think it was worth the wait. Can't wait to see your build up and running LunaP.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Those temps are Celsius (freezing is 0 degrees). not Fahrenheit (freezing is 32 degrees), and since none are negative, none are below freezing.


Is this a prank or are you on some kind of fault finding mission with statements like this running from thread to thread ?..... I am finding it somewhat surreal to see an OCN "regular" post a message indicating that they are somehow unaware that a "running CPU" will have higher temperature than the liquid used to cool it. If that were not true, then the term "coolant" would not be a very descriptive label would it ? My coolant is generally a good 40C below my CPU cores when it hits 75C under torture tests..... generally around 1-2C cooler when idling when fans spin down to 400rpm.

1. The statement you are finding fault with says "I hope thatz not a DW loop with *water temps* are below freezing

2. Your counter says that I'm wrong because no *CPU temps* are above freezing

Well water temps and CPU temps are two different things and it's generally accepted here on OCN that, laws of thermodynamics not being broken, the latter will always be higher than the former. But before getting to that, lets look at the his image carefully.

3. When I look at the image of his CPU temps I see this label entitled "Minimum" and when I look at it, it says that one CPU core temperature was at some point in time .... a time SINCE the program was loaded ..... 0C..... So when he took the screen shot, it was 1C, at some time previous while the program was running, it was a lil colder at 0C and at when it was shut off and not producing any heat, or even sleeping wouldn't it be colder still.

4. Can we agree then, that an actively running processor is going to be "warmer" than one in a turned off / or "sleeping" machine ? So if the warmed up CPU core is 0C" then before it warmed up, it must have been at a lower temperature.... if it was at a lower temperature than 0C the core must, by definition, have been "below freezing".

5. If ya can't agree to that, let's talk about what the subject of my post being "water temperature" not CPU temperature. If we can agree that the stuff in the loop is called a coolant..... we must also agree that the coolant .... must be "cooler" than the CPU if it's going to serve its function. If the CPU was at 0C and it was producing heat, then isn't the only reason it's not climbing higher because the coolant is of a lower temperature ? Is that not the whole idea of water cooling ? .... the coolant, being of a lower temperature than the CPU, functions to cool the CPU down ? So if the coolant must be cooler than the little heat factory we call the CPU cores, and the core was at 0C at some point, then must it not follow that the coolant must have been lower than 0C ?

6. Right now I am looking at an ambient of 20.1 ..... a "CPU In" coolant temp of 21.3 and a "CPU Out" temp of 21.7..... So I think it's a safe bet that my cores are no cooler than that 21.7 .....so if my box was in that same basement with a core temp of 0C, then I'd have to expect my coolant in to be -0.4 (21.7 - 21.4) while running and drop to ambient when shut down of at best -1.6. (21.7 - 20.1) . Those two numbers are below freezing.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I undersatnd that one can use a paper clip to the green and any black wire to power jump the PSU to fill up water loop with coolant for first time.
> 
> Except, all the wires on my EVGA 1300w are black. So do I use the paper clip on Power Ok and Ground on the power connector?


I suggest not doing that ..... this is a much safer / easier solution that I picked up from the Singularity Computer guys over on youtube

AC to DC Adapter - 110V AC to 12V DC Converter w/ Standard 4 Pin (5000mA Max)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9106/bus-192/AC_to_DC_Adapter_-_110V_AC_to_12V_DC_Converter_w_Standard_4_Pin_5000mA_Max.html

used it w/ my 35x2 .... no yanking cables no worry or water droplets falling on live PSU.... best $20 I ever spent on puter doodads that don't wind up as part of the build.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I suggest not doing that ..... this is a much safer / easier solution that I picked up from the Singularity Computer guys over on youtube
> 
> AC to DC Adapter - 110V AC to 12V DC Converter w/ Standard 4 Pin (5000mA Max)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9106/bus-192/AC_to_DC_Adapter_-_110V_AC_to_12V_DC_Converter_w_Standard_4_Pin_5000mA_Max.html
> 
> used it w/ my 35x2 .... no yanking cables no worry or water droplets falling on live PSU.... best $20 I ever spent on puter doodads that don't wind up as part of the build.


Ugh wish I woulda thought of this / seen it earlier rofl my order already went out from FCPU


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Looks good LunaP...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to use revolvers for my SLI connect, but I knew right off it wouldn't work with tri-SLI. I didn't want to use an EK bridge because I didn't want to cover the beauty of the RIV BE mobo... and the nice shiny black EK back plates... with a big EK block. I used 4 Bitspower Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe in parallel, and I think it looks great. Down side, it costs more than an EK SLI bridge.
> 
> Anyhow... mine has been been done since new years day... and I love it. I hated waiting so long for the RIV BE... but I think it was worth the wait. Can't wait to see your build up and running LunaP.


In agree w/ ya sentiments.....I felt the same way about the M6F and routed everything around it and piped each card individually on a parallel acrylic feed so no connection between blocks ..... only suggestion Id make if ya ever do a tear down, and it's a minor one, is mount the Supremacy with ports vertically so as to get better lines as well as better block performance when mounted vertically,


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ugh wish I woulda thought of this / seen it earlier rofl my order already went out from FCPU


Road Trip !







Ya wanna borrow mine ? Come visit !

I picked up my last FCPU order..... was gonna be within 100 miles visiting my son at "Kolludge".... so when he asked how I wanted to spend Tuesday, I said "Road Trip". When my wife found out she made fun of us regarding ..... "our pilgrimage to geek mecca" ..... was fun to visit and meet everybody.....wish I lived next door for all those times when ya almost done and figure out ya need one more fitting..... and then shipping costs more than the part.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a prank or are you on some kind of fault finding mission with statements like this running from thread to thread ?..... I am finding it somewhat surreal to see an OCN "regular" post a message indicating that they are somehow unaware that a "running CPU" will have higher temperature than the liquid used to cool it. If that were not true, then the term "coolant" would not be a very descriptive label would it ? My coolant is generally a good 40C below my CPU cores when it hits 75C under torture tests..... generally around 1-2C cooler when idling when fans spin down to 400rpm.
> 
> 1. The statement you are finding fault with says "I hope thatz not a DW loop with *water temps* are below freezing
> 
> 2. Your counter says that I'm wrong because no *CPU temps* are above freezing
> 
> Well water temps and CPU temps are two different things and it's generally accepted here on OCN that, laws of thermodynamics not being broken, the latter will always be higher than the former. But before getting to that, lets look at the his image carefully.
> 
> 3. When I look at the image of his CPU temps I see this label entitled "Minimum" and when I look at it, it says that one CPU core temperature was at some point in time .... a time SINCE the program was loaded ..... 0C..... So when he took the screen shot, it was 1C, at some time previous while the program was running, it was a lil colder at 0C and at when it was shut off and not producing any heat, or even sleeping wouldn't it be colder still.
> 
> 4. Can we agree then, that an actively running processor is going to be "warmer" than one in a turned off / or "sleeping" machine ? So if the warmed up CPU core is 0C" then before it warmed up, it must have been at a lower temperature.... if it was at a lower temperature than 0C the core must, by definition, have been "below freezing".
> 
> 5. If ya can't agree to that, let's talk about what the subject of my post being "water temperature" not CPU temperature. If we can agree that the stuff in the loop is called a coolant..... we must also agree that the coolant .... must be "cooler" than the CPU if it's going to serve its function. If the CPU was at 0C and it was producing heat, then isn't the only reason it's not climbing higher because the coolant is of a lower temperature ? Is that not the whole idea of water cooling ? .... the coolant, being of a lower temperature than the CPU, functions to cool the CPU down ? So if the coolant must be cooler than the little heat factory we call the CPU cores, and the core was at 0C at some point, then must it not follow that the coolant must have been lower than 0C ?
> 
> 6. Right now I am looking at an ambient of 20.1 ..... a "CPU In" coolant temp of 21.3 and a "CPU Out" temp of 21.7..... So I think it's a safe bet that my cores are no cooler than that 21.7 .....so if my box was in that same basement with a core temp of 0C, then I'd have to expect my coolant in to be -0.4 (21.7 - 21.4) while running and drop to ambient when shut down of at best -1.6. (21.7 - 20.1) . Those two numbers are below freezing.


Lol, you've been going on a tear lately with completely and utterly crushing people's statements...with science!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Road Trip !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya wanna borrow mine ? Come visit !
> 
> I picked up my last FCPU order..... was gonna be within 100 miles visiting my son at "Kolludge".... so when he asked how I wanted to spend Tuesday, I said "Road Trip". When my wife found out she made fun of us regarding ..... "our pilgrimage to geek mecca" ..... was fun to visit and meet everybody.....*wish I lived next door for all those times when ya almost done and figure out ya need one more fitting..... and then shipping costs more than the part.*


Story of my life lol. I can't bring myself to buy something that costs less than the shipping so I start trying to find random things that I may use at some point. And then I blow another hundy without meaning to......


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Im just posting this to annoy people, just ordered 5 more AP-15s seeing PC Case Gear here in Aus have them in stock







have to wait till Monday to see if they actually send me all 5 or not









Planning on doing push/pull 5v with them once I redo my loop and maybe add a GTX 780/780 Ti









Sorry had to brag


----------



## darwing

Still a LNG way to go but the 2 420 rads fit perfectly


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I undersatnd that one can use a paper clip to the green and any black wire to power jump the PSU to fill up water loop with coolant for first time.
> 
> Except, all the wires on my EVGA 1300w are black. So do I use the paper clip on Power Ok and Ground on the power connector?
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest not doing that ..... this is a much safer / easier solution that I picked up from the Singularity Computer guys over on youtube
> 
> AC to DC Adapter - 110V AC to 12V DC Converter w/ Standard 4 Pin (5000mA Max)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9106/bus-192/AC_to_DC_Adapter_-_110V_AC_to_12V_DC_Converter_w_Standard_4_Pin_5000mA_Max.html
> 
> used it w/ my 35x2 .... no yanking cables no worry or water droplets falling on live PSU.... best $20 I ever spent on puter doodads that don't wind up as part of the build.
Click to expand...

The PSU jumping technique has been around forever,why do you not recommend it? It's both safe and easy.

Can you also edit your previous post rather than double posting also


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Im just posting this to annoy people, just ordered 5 more AP-15s seeing PC Case Gear here in Aus have them in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have to wait till Monday to see if they actually send me all 5 or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning on doing push/pull 5v with them once I redo my loop and maybe add a GTX 780/780 Ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry had to brag


They weren't discontinued, that was a bad rumor, if that is why you were bragging.


----------



## daguardian

I didn't get the time to make a build-log, and my camera packed it in halfway through, among other set-backs, but I finally finished


----------



## Effie

.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Im just posting this to annoy people, just ordered 5 more AP-15s seeing PC Case Gear here in Aus have them in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have to wait till Monday to see if they actually send me all 5 or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning on doing push/pull 5v with them once I redo my loop and maybe add a GTX 780/780 Ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry had to brag
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They weren't discontinued, that was a bad rumor, if that is why you were bragging.
Click to expand...

Not strictly true,Scythe are not selling the GT fans anymore but Nidec,the OEM,is continuing the production under its own branding.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> They weren't discontinued, that was a bad rumor, if that is why you were bragging.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not strictly true,Scythe are not selling the GT fans anymore but Nidec,the OEM,is continuing the production under its own branding.


Thats what I ment, Scythe are taking there name off it, therefore technically Scythe are discontinuing them even if the OEM is going to keep up production

I know in Aus once all the Scythe ones are gone, knowing our craptastic market, we probably wont be able to get the Nidec ones without paying over the top import prices

And plus every one knows them as Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15, hence why I was bragging I was able to get 5 more Scythe ones seeing there getting harder and hard to get


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Looks good LunaP...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to use revolvers for my SLI connect, but I knew right off it wouldn't work with tri-SLI. I didn't want to use an EK bridge because I didn't want to cover the beauty of the RIV BE mobo... and the nice shiny black EK back plates... with a big EK block. I used 4 Bitspower Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe in parallel, and I think it looks great. Down side, it costs more than an EK SLI bridge.
> 
> Anyhow... mine has been been done since new years day... and I love it. I hated waiting so long for the RIV BE... but I think it was worth the wait. Can't wait to see your build up and running LunaP.


awesome work. Love to see high end builds in modded 800D's

Got my 780Ti block installed last night. Loving it so far, really pleased with the temps and overall quality of it.

Sorry for all the dust in my rig, couldnt be bothered to clean it.


----------



## kcuestag

Anyone ever got a block like this?





If you look at where the inner screws of the FC Terminal are connected, each of them has a crack... The block leaks badly from there.









I just sent an RMA form to EKWB, hoping it's dealt with fast... Got them yesterday and they were sealed so not sure how it passed their quality control.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Anyone ever got a block like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look at where the inner screws of the FC Terminal are connected, each of them has a crack... The block leaks badly from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just sent an RMA form to EKWB, hoping it's dealt with fast... Got them yesterday and they were sealed so not sure how it passed their quality control.


Are you sure the cracks were present when you first opened the package? I've seen this posted multiple times before, however, each of those times was because the screws were tightened too much which caused the acrylic to crack under the pressure.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Are you sure the cracks were present when you first opened the package? I've seen this posted multiple times before, however, each of those times was because the screws were tightened too much which caused the acrylic to crack under the pressure.


I am sure, if you check the pictures that's with the stock fc terminal attached, with comes installed from factory.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

From who else in the States can I buy AC rads besides PPCs and FCPU? Need another single 120 ST30 as I found it will fit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I suggest not doing that ..... this is a much safer / easier solution that I picked up from the Singularity Computer guys over on youtube
> 
> AC to DC Adapter - 110V AC to 12V DC Converter w/ Standard 4 Pin (5000mA Max)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9106/bus-192/AC_to_DC_Adapter_-_110V_AC_to_12V_DC_Converter_w_Standard_4_Pin_5000mA_Max.html
> 
> used it w/ my 35x2 .... no yanking cables no worry or water droplets falling on live PSU.... best $20 I ever spent on puter doodads that don't wind up as part of the build.


Oh my SATA to USB adapter deal has a four pin. Maybe that would work for this too?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> From who else in the States can I buy AC rads besides PPCs and FCPU? Need another single 120 ST30 as I found it will fit.
> Oh my SATA to USB adapter deal has a four pin. Maybe that would work for this too?


Doubtful....check the wattage to be sure. The one he posted is 12V 5A, so 60W. You will want at least that...

Honestly, I do not see why not to use a PSU though. Those AC/DC adapters do not have any kind of circuit protection (shorts, over current, over volt, etc) like PSUs do. If you short a PSU out, it will just trip and you do not damage your pump or anything else you power, plus the PSU can usually recover from most of those situations. The AC/DC adapters would likely blow forcing you to get a new one and there is a strong possibility whatever you are powering would burn out too.

Unless you have a bench power supply, using your PSU is your best bet. Want something not in your case? Then get a little PSU to use for testing pumps, fans, etc for < $15 next time you put in a newegg order (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170014)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes considered voltage; why I was asking. All good points, thanks.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Doubtful....check the wattage to be sure. The one he posted is 12V 5A, so 60W. You will want at least that wattage...
> 
> Honestly, I do not see why not to use a PSU though. Those AC/DC adapters do not have any kind of circuit protection (shorts, over current, over volt, etc) like PSUs do. If you short a PSU out, it will just trip and you do not damage your pump or anything else you power, plus the PSU can usually recover from most of those situations. The AC/DC adapters would likely blow forcing you to get a new one and there is a strong possibility whatever you are powering would burn out too.
> 
> Unless you have a bench power supply, using your PSU is your best bet. Want something not in your case? Then get a little PSU to use for testing pumps, fans, etc for < $15 next time you put in a newegg order (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170014)


Yup, I have an old PSU I pulled from an old Dell Server at work that I use for running just the pump when filling and bleeding, testing fans,etc. Works perfect for me.


----------



## stickg1

I also have a PSU I pulled from an old OEM tower. It's used only for filling my loop. I keep the paper clip in all the time. I just wish it had a switch on it. I have to unplug it to shut it off, so instead I just plug it in to a power strip with a switch.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I also have a PSU I pulled from an old OEM tower. It's used only for filling my loop. I keep the paper clip in all the time. I just wish it had a switch on it. I have to unplug it to shut it off, so instead I just plug it in to a power strip with a switch.


That's how mine is too, no switch on the PSU itself. So instead of the paperclip I used wire and added a switch between the two jumper pins. Acts just like a switch on the back of the PSU would


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I have my old 750 TX which is not worth selling but it's still a pain to use that heavy box with it's many cables sometimes.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah I have my old 750 TX which is not worth selling but it's still a pain to use that heavy box with it's many cables sometimes.


I cut all the wires off except for the 24-pin and a couple molex connectors since I knew I would never use it again for anything else.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's how mine is too, no switch on the PSU itself. So instead of the paperclip I used wire and added a switch between the two jumper pins. Acts just like a switch on the back of the PSU would


Care to PM me a picture of that when you get a chance?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I also have a PSU I pulled from an old OEM tower. It's used only for filling my loop. I keep the paper clip in all the time. I just wish it had a switch on it. I have to unplug it to shut it off, so instead I just plug it in to a power strip with a switch.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's how mine is too, no switch on the PSU itself. So instead of the paperclip I used wire and added a switch between the two jumper pins. Acts just like a switch on the back of the PSU would


Yes, you could do that.

stickg1, what I'd say is buy a 24pin mating connector, wire up a toggle switch between the PS_ON and a GND pin, glue the toggle switch down to the back of the mating connector. then you can just plug the 24pin w/ switch into the 24pin coming out of the PSU and you have a nice on/off switch and you do not have to worry about knocking a paper clip loose or spicing in a switch into your PSU somewhere.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I should just maim it almost totally. Already cut off one molex line years ago for easier rear cable management. Good idea +rep


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> In agree w/ ya sentiments.....I felt the same way about the M6F and routed everything around it and piped each card individually on a parallel acrylic feed so no connection between blocks ..... only suggestion Id make if ya ever do a tear down, and it's a minor one, is mount the Supremacy with ports vertically so as to get better lines as well as better block performance when mounted vertically,


Interesting, I was almost considering going vertically, from top down using 90 degree's for each...hmmm I'll take this in consideration for next time + rep for that and also it's one of the minor changes I could literally perform on the fly since the adjustables can supposedly be removed easily, I'll do this next time I clean out the loop, which reminds me I need to go to Home Depot sometime this weekend and pick up the fish pond pump / filter set so I can do a full clean out.

Anything you guys recommend for wiping down the acrylic tubes from finger prints etc?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Those soft lint-free cloths for like eyeglasses and also lcd screens I'd say...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> From who else in the States can I buy AC rads besides PPCs and FCPU? Need another single 120 ST30 as I found it will fit.
> Oh my SATA to USB adapter deal has a four pin. Maybe that would work for this too?
> 
> 
> 
> Doubtful....check the wattage to be sure. The one he posted is 12V 5A, so 60W. You will want at least that...
> 
> Honestly, I do not see why not to use a PSU though. Those AC/DC adapters do not have any kind of circuit protection (shorts, over current, over volt, etc) like PSUs do. If you short a PSU out, it will just trip and you do not damage your pump or anything else you power, plus the PSU can usually recover from most of those situations. The AC/DC adapters would likely blow forcing you to get a new one and there is a strong possibility whatever you are powering would burn out too.
> 
> Unless you have a bench power supply, using your PSU is your best bet. Want something not in your case? *Then get a little PSU to use for testing pumps, fans, etc* for < $15 next time you put in a newegg order (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170014)
Click to expand...

I use a trusty 1200w Silent Pro for testing...never even been in a rig. Amazing what i have laying around.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> In agree w/ ya sentiments.....I felt the same way about the M6F and routed everything around it and piped each card individually on a parallel acrylic feed so no connection between blocks ..... only suggestion Id make if ya ever do a tear down, and it's a minor one, is mount the Supremacy with ports vertically so as to get better lines as well as better block performance when mounted vertically,
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting, I was almost considering going vertically, from top down using 90 degree's for each...hmmm I'll take this in consideration for next time + rep for that and also it's one of the minor changes I could literally perform on the fly since the adjustables can supposedly be removed easily, I'll do this next time I clean out the loop, which reminds me I need to go to Home Depot sometime this weekend and pick up the fish pond pump / filter set so I can do a full clean out.
> 
> Anything you guys recommend for wiping down the acrylic tubes from finger prints etc?
Click to expand...

I use a microfiber cloth and Mr Sheen,furniture polish is great on acrylic


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Anyone ever got a block like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look at where the inner screws of the FC Terminal are connected, each of them has a crack... The block leaks badly from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just sent an RMA form to EKWB, hoping it's dealt with fast... Got them yesterday and they were sealed so not sure how it passed their quality control.


That is very unfortunate. I was considering that block too but I go with acetal block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's how mine is too, no switch on the PSU itself. So instead of the paperclip I used wire and added a switch between the two jumper pins. Acts just like a switch on the back of the PSU would


I use ATX on/off switch (from my previous project) to jump start the PSU.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use a trusty 1200w Silent Pro for testing...never even been in a rig. Amazing what i have laying around.....


Lol, use em if ya got em


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> In agree w/ ya sentiments.....I felt the same way about the M6F and routed everything around it and piped each card individually on a parallel acrylic feed so no connection between blocks ..... only suggestion Id make if ya ever do a tear down, and it's a minor one, is mount the Supremacy with ports vertically so as to get better lines as well as better block performance when mounted vertically,


+Rep. Thanks for the suggestion. I promised myself I will be tear downs and maintenance periodically this time. My previous setup wasn't tear down friendly as far as draining and cleaning dust from my rads. When I did my current updates on the case, I took care of those issues... so it should be a lot easier to do maintenance. The only thing about going vertical on my supremacy is I'll have to bend new acrylic for the CPU block. Since I have overkill dual D5 pumps in my system... which I had to turn down... I don't think I have an issue with flow, but I'll consider your suggestion on my next maintenance tear down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> awesome work. Love to see high end builds in modded 800D's


Thanks... I love looking at modded smaller case builds that are maxed out. Large case builds seems too easy... LOL. However, if I had the room for a large case in my office, I wouldn't hesitate to by buy a CL TH10.


----------



## sinnedone

Hello all, I have a quick question.









Is there a big enough temperature drop by plumbing each device per radiator vs running radiators right after each other?

For example in my case going res>pump>rad>cpu>rad>gpu>gpu vs going res>pump>rad>rad>cpu>gpu>gpu?

Would there any pros/cons of one vs the other?

Thanks


----------



## spikezone2004

Just finished rebuilding my loop haven't filled her up yet cause I have work don't want a leak to arise while I'm at work but she looks a lot different than before

Before:


After:


although i just realized i forgot to put my kill coil in the tubing lol. i had it in res before and i think it kept touching pump and causing vibration noise


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hello all, I have a quick question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a big enough temperature drop by plumbing each device per radiator vs running radiators right after each other?
> 
> For example in my case going res>pump>rad>cpu>rad>gpu>gpu vs going res>pump>rad>rad>cpu>gpu>gpu?
> 
> Would there any pros/cons of one vs the other?
> 
> Thanks


No, loop sequence has little to no effect on temps overall. Just try to make you tubing runs as short as possible, if that means you hit a radiator between some blocks, ok, but the only thing that you want with regards to order is to have your pump after or part of you reservoir.


----------



## ikem

H60 in my node 304 HTPC


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hello all, I have a quick question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a big enough temperature drop by plumbing each device per radiator vs running radiators right after each other?
> 
> For example in my case going res>pump>rad>cpu>rad>gpu>gpu vs going res>pump>rad>rad>cpu>gpu>gpu?
> 
> Would there any pros/cons of one vs the other?
> 
> Thanks


Same. Loop order doesn't matter once equilibrium is reached. Go with whichever looks better and results in the cleanest tube runs


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> No, loop sequence has little to no effect on temps overall. Just try to make you tubing runs as short as possible, if that means you hit a radiator between some blocks, ok, but the only thing that you want with regards to order is to have your pump after or part of you reservoir.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Same. Loop order doesn't matter once equilibrium is reached. Go with whichever looks better and results in the cleanest tube runs


Thank both of you.

So basically I just need to fit as much rad space as possible with the least amount of bends especially 90's. Hey this is sort of like planning the intercooler tubing on one of my project cars lol









How about this, running the tubing in parallel with both gpus? What would happen if the parallel tubing included 2 gpus and cpu?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank both of you.
> 
> So basically I just need to fit as much rad space as possible with the least amount of bends especially 90's. Hey this is sort of like planning the intercooler tubing on one of my project cars lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about this, running the tubing in parallel with both gpus? What would happen if the parallel tubing included 2 gpus and cpu?


If the CPU block and GPU block have about the same fluid restriction it should be "ok". But I would personally run GPU's in parallel, and then Go to CPU before/after that, just my opinion.


----------



## pc-illiterate

there are a couple users here who did parallel including the cpu. if i feel unlazy, i will try to find them.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank both of you.
> 
> So basically I just need to fit as much rad space as possible with the least amount of bends especially 90's. Hey this is sort of like planning the intercooler tubing on one of my project cars lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about this, running the tubing in parallel with both gpus? What would happen if the parallel tubing included 2 gpus and cpu?


People run GPUs in parallel all the time...in fact it is becoming the more popular thing to do. the most common and best looking way to do this is to connect the inlets and outlets between the cards with either the Bitspower Crystal Links or one of the many SLI connectors.



The key points between the two setups:
Series you usually have each subsequent card hotter than the first (say 48, 50, 52 for 3 cards) vs Parallel where all cards are roughly the same temp (51,51,51 for 3 cards)
Parallel is less restriction in the loop than series
Parallel has slower flow over each cards (flow is roughly 1/N cards) than Series

Now in terms of running parallel to the CPU as well, then you need to make sure your pump will be able to crank out enough flow that your blocks have water moving fast enough. CPU blocks tend to have a lot more restriction, so your GPUs will definitely not get as much water.

For example, let's say a CPU block is 2x the restriction of the GPUs.
then roughly 1/2 the flow would go to CPU, 1/4 over each of the GPUs.
Continuing this example, if your pump is only getting you 1 Gal/m, then you probably are not going to cool your components enough. if it was like 2 Gal/m, then you probably would be ok.

Each block has different restrictions, so you would need to do some research as to how much restriction you have and look at some pressure curves to see what kind of flow your pump will produce for your setup.

I personally recommend doing everything in series, save the two GPUs can be in parallel.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> No, loop sequence has little to no effect on temps overall. Just try to make you tubing runs as short as possible, if that means you hit a radiator between some blocks, ok, but the only thing that you want with regards to order is to have your pump after or part of you reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Same. Loop order doesn't matter once equilibrium is reached. Go with whichever looks better and results in the cleanest tube runs
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank both of you.
> 
> So basically I just need to fit as much rad space as possible with the least amount of bends especially 90's. Hey this is sort of like planning the intercooler tubing on one of my project cars lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about this, running the tubing in parallel with both gpus? What would happen if the parallel tubing included 2 gpus and cpu?
Click to expand...

Not a lot except your GPU temps will go up slightly. Parallel reduces flow between the blocks for a slight increase in overall flow ...and i mean slight as in worthless....and increased GPU Temps. Adding the CPU as a parallel component means serious flow needs to be maintained....think along the lines Dual 24v strongs or Iwaki pumps.

Its more for aesthetic value for me,I tried it a few times and its never had better performance than serial.


----------



## sinnedone

Thank yoy Jimhans1 for your input.

pc-illiterate lol thank you

cyphon, in the picture you posted would it be possible to set up so the feed line and return lin on the parallel gpus enter and exit on the same side? ie both from top or both from bottom?

I definitely wouldn't want to restrict flow that way, so I'll definitely keep researching









*EDIT*
Thank you B NEGATIVE, its purely an aesthetics thing that has me thinking about gpus in parallel.
*EDIT*


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank yoy Jimhans1 for your input.
> 
> pc-illiterate lol thank you
> 
> cyphon, in the picture you posted would it be possible to set up so the feed line and return lin on the parallel gpus enter and exit on the same side? ie both from top or both from bottom?
> 
> I definitely wouldn't want to restrict flow that way, so I'll definitely keep researching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Thank you B NEGATIVE, its purely an aesthetics thing that has me thinking about gpus in parallel.
> *EDIT*


read! http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/
Quote:


> Elbows and fittings do cause some restriction, but it's very much fractions of a degree and impacts flow rate much more than it does temperature... it would take almost 30 each 90 degree elbows to add up to 1 degree in CPU temp rise.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not a lot except your GPU temps will go up slightly. Parallel reduces flow between the blocks for a slight increase in overall flow ...and i mean slight as in worthless....and increased GPU Temps. Adding the CPU as a parallel component means serious flow needs to be maintained....think along the lines Dual 24v strongs or Iwaki pumps.
> 
> Its more for aesthetic value for me,I tried it a few times and its never had better performance than serial.


FWIW, Swiftech published a study and found the differences between running GPUs in series vs parallel is "nonimal", and at least in their case they managed to get a fraction of a degree benefit to running GPUs in parallel vs in series.

http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf *(PDF)*



After reading Swiftech's results I've kind of assumed that since DDCs perform better, less prone to overheating, with more restriction, they would tend to favor being run in serial, and D5s, with a higher flow but less head pressure so favor loops with less restriction, so would slightly favor running GPUs in parallel.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank yoy Jimhans1 for your input.
> 
> pc-illiterate lol thank you
> 
> cyphon, in the picture you posted would it be possible to set up so the feed line and return lin on the parallel gpus enter and exit on the same side? *ie both from top or both from bottom?*
> 
> I definitely wouldn't want to restrict flow that way, so I'll definitely keep researching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Thank you B NEGATIVE, its purely an aesthetics thing that has me thinking about gpus in parallel.
> *EDIT*


Yes, that is perfectly fine to do in a parallel GPU loop.


----------



## Gunderman456

I don't get it. I've filled the reservoir and let the pump run a few times. While the pump still empties the reservoir, when I turn off the power now the water rushes back into the reservoir.

What should I do? Should I just keep the pump running and fill it up that way at this point?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank yoy Jimhans1 for your input.
> 
> pc-illiterate lol thank you
> 
> cyphon, *in the picture you posted would it be possible to set up so the feed line and return lin on the parallel gpus enter and exit on the same side? ie both from top or both from bottom?*
> 
> I definitely wouldn't want to restrict flow that way, so I'll definitely keep researching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Thank you B NEGATIVE, its purely an aesthetics thing that has me thinking about gpus in parallel.
> *EDIT*


No, if you do that 1 card or the other will not get flow across it.
Yest it is fine if they are both on the top or both on the bottom.

If you put the in and out both on the left or right, then neither card will get flow as it would be a straight pass thru


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I don't get it. I've filled the reservoir and let the pump run a few times. While the pump still empties the reservoir, when I turn off the power now the water rushes back into the reservoir.
> 
> What should I do? Should I just keep the pump running and fill it up that way at this point?


If the reservoir isn't the highest point in the loop, you will run into that, in that instance, I've just left the pump running and filled it, IF you have enough fluid to keep the pump underwater!!!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I don't get it. I've filled the reservoir and let the pump run a few times. While the pump still empties the reservoir, when I turn off the power now the water rushes back into the reservoir.
> 
> What should I do? Should I just keep the pump running and fill it up that way at this point?


Yes. Your loop is still not filled. The water rushes back to the res because there is no longer pressure there. Just keep adding water and running the pump until the res level doesn't go down. Then fill it up to like 80-90% and run your leak test. As bubbles escape your blocks they go into the res, so the level will continue to go down until all air is out of the system. Once that happens and you are leak tested, fill the res back up to the 80-90% mark and you are good to go


----------



## Gunderman456

Yes, it stays underwater as the loop now completes the run and is actually dumping water back in the reservoir. Ok thanks, will keep the pump running!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No, if you do that 1 card or the other will not get flow across it.
> If you put the in and out both on the left or right, then neither card will get flow as it would be a straight pass thru
> 
> You pretty much have to do the setup in the pic or mirrored if you want parallel


Not true.. both GPU's will be cooled just fine when connecting to both bottom or both top ports. The restriction internally in the blocks is way higher than the bit of run from the line-in to the second GPU, causing flow to practically equalize over both GPU's. The minor difference in flow will be too little to cause any degree of temperature difference.


----------



## Jimhans1

What Jetskyer said is correct.


----------



## LunaP

]Alright I feel dumb asking this but these bridge extenders.....aren't working the way I was hoping, when I go to tighten them its not like it tightens separately , tightening one sides auto untightens the other no matter how much force I use to hold the top or bottom. Hoping someone can fill me in on what I"m doing wrong .

n/m I see that the extended part CAN move on its own w/ an insane amount of force ( w/ the center part loosened...) was hoping I could do it by hand looks like I need to buy another tool to hold it in place.

Edit nope n/m it doesn't turn once inside 1 side.

Figured it out you need to separate them


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Not true.. both GPU's will be cooled just fine when connecting to both bottom or both top ports. The restriction internally in the blocks is way higher than the bit of run from the line-in to the second GPU, causing flow to practically equalize over both GPU's. The minor difference in flow will be too little to cause any degree of temperature difference.


Ah yeah, I was overthinking...Editing the other post









Schematically, 1 on top 1 on bottom or both top an bottom is the same,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No, if you do that 1 card or the other will not get flow across it.
> If you put the in and out both on the left or right, then neither card will get flow as it would be a straight pass thru
> 
> You pretty much have to do the setup in the pic or mirrored if you want parallel
> 
> 
> 
> Not true.. both GPU's will be cooled just fine when connecting to *both bottom or both top ports*. The restriction internally in the blocks is way higher than the bit of run from the line-in to the second GPU, causing flow to practically equalize over both GPU's. The minor difference in flow will be too little to cause any degree of temperature difference.
Click to expand...

Correct.
You cant run them with ports on the same side,that is the only restriction for parallel.

My bench had them on the top.



You can just see them in this pic


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Correct.
> You *cant* run them with ports on the same side,that is the only restriction for parallel.
> 
> My bench had them on the top.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can just see them in this pic


Typo?? In parallel, you CAN run the inlet/outlet both on the same side.


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys quick question, this is a miss on my part. I have the 8x3 pin PCB boards for fans and they have a 4pin molex connector, which I hooked up a molex -> 3 pin extender. Some reason on the back of the aquaeros I thought I read 3 pins per channel but seems I was wrong. Can I still plug these in for now and just take up pins 1-3 ? or does it HAVE to be 4 pin? I finished my loop and ready to leak test so kinda wanted to see things in action. If not and I hook up the fans to the PSU directly will they start @ 100% or do they default to 60%?

Thanks.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey guys quick question, this is a miss on my part. I have the 8x3 pin PCB boards for fans and they have a 4pin molex connector, which I hooked up a molex -> 3 pin extender. Some reason on the back of the aquaeros I thought I read 3 pins per channel but seems I was wrong. Can I still plug these in for now and just take up pins 1-3 ? or does it HAVE to be 4 pin? I finished my loop and ready to leak test so kinda wanted to see things in action. If not and I hook up the fans to the PSU directly will they start @ 100% or do they default to 60%?
> 
> Thanks.


The fourth pin on the aquaero is for pwm fans only. The molex-to-3-pin connector you have should work just fine. You won't be having rpm readout however.
[edit] when hooked up to the PSU they'll run at 12v, so 100%
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Typo?? In parallel, you CAN run the inlet/outlet both on the same side.


I believe B- meant the same side as in left port on top card and left port on bottom card (since this would bypass the two blocks completely)


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yes. Your loop is still not filled. The water rushes back to the res because there is no longer pressure there. Just keep adding water and running the pump until the res level doesn't go down. Then fill it up to like 80-90% and run your leak test. As bubbles escape your blocks they go into the res, so the level will continue to go down until all air is out of the system. Once that happens and you are leak tested, *fill the res back up to the 80-90% mark and you are good to go*


Why not fill it to as close to 100% as you can?


----------



## stickg1

I revised my loop again. This time all radiator fans are set for filtered push intake. It's a shame to hide them (the fans) because I went to the trouble of painting them to match, but my temps are 3C better than before and I did get into watercooling for performance. It's just afterward I met you guys and got a little caught up in aesthetics. Keeping up with the Jones's I guess. Not complaining! But let me know what you think. I'll take some nice outdoor daylight pics tomorrow but I was excited to share so here's some cell phone pics with improper lighting!





Spoiler: Previous orientations


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys finally ready to start leaktesting so I'm gonna start dumping in distilled into the front bay res.

Question on this. I'll d/c the PSU cables from the mobo and GPU's temporarily while I do this so it's just the pump running as well as lights, can I leave it on while I slowly pour water in or do I fill the res up a bit, turn it on for 2 seconds to have it suck out then turn it off then repeat?

Also for these XSPC tube resevoires since the label says not to open the top fill cap , can I still do so to fill it up a bit that way I get some steady flow in there? Or just fill the res bay turn it on let it go into the res etc.? Appreciate it.


----------



## stickg1

Well since your pump is up there with the bay res you will have to shut the pump off every time the water level in the bay res gets close to empty. But since you have all those massive rads and the extra tube res to fill, I would fill that tube res all the way to the top and let the water level in all the tubing get close to the bay-res level, then start filling and pumping the bay res. Otherwise you're going to be at it for a while, get comfortable and I hope you ordered some take-out because you ain't goin nowhere for a bit.


----------



## friskiest

Hey guys, got something I'd appreciate some opinions on, which I also posted over in the EK Club, but thought I would ask here as well.

Should I be worried here? I'm telling myself not to be, but you never know - it could be the early stage of something horrible.

I got this block second hand, no idea what the previous owner ran in his loop.







Appreciate your input


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well since your pump is up there with the bay res you will have to shut the pump off every time the water level in the bay res gets close to empty. But since you have all those massive rads and the extra tube res to fill, I would fill that tube res all the way to the top and let the water level in all the tubing get close to the bay-res level, then start filling and pumping the bay res. Otherwise you're going to be at it for a while, get comfortable and I hope you ordered some take-out because you ain't goin nowhere for a bit.


Ha! Took me a few months to get this far what's overnight~









I take it its ok to fill up the tube res then from the top then just carefully reseal it using a quarter or something.

Anywhoo, got the cables hooked up, and updated my build log, here's the result thus far~ and yes the metroid is extending out from the wall and has an LED inside it, will be putting an LED inside Samus's weapon as well.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hey guys, got something I'd appreciate some opinions on, which I also posted over in the EK Club, but thought I would ask here as well.
> 
> Should I be worried here? I'm telling myself not to be, but you never know - it could be the early stage of something horrible.
> 
> I got this block second hand, no idea what the previous owner ran in his loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate your input


I can't tell you if it's truly bad for the sake of the block or not, but I can tell you that it looks like oxidation on copper [EDIT: I guess that's nickel plated copper?] that was once wet and is now dry. Perhaps a flushing and scrubbing is in order?

On a lighter note, the pattern of the water channel for that block looks like a little goldfish. I'm not sure why that amuses me but I think it's cute!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hey guys, got something I'd appreciate some opinions on, which I also posted over in the EK Club, but thought I would ask here as well.
> 
> Should I be worried here? I'm telling myself not to be, but you never know - it could be the early stage of something horrible.
> 
> I got this block second hand, no idea what the previous owner ran in his loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate your input


That's the infamous EK nickel plate flaking issue they had on some their old blocks, I have some of the old ones like that also, it doesn't affect the performance of the block, but aesthetically it's ugly.

Three options:

1. Send back to EK to have it replaced, probably at your expense as it's second hand, and definitely out slide it's warranty period.

2. Take the block apart and find a local company that does Electroless Nickel playing and have it replated.

3. Do nothing and just use the thing like it is.

I'm on the fence myself, the blocks I have that are like that are for GTX580's, so I'll probably just use them as is and not worry about it.

Edit: looking closer, I'm not sure I was correct, it looks like it COULD be old coolant trapped between the block and the plexi top. And since that's a Titan block, it might be under warranty still. Sorry if I mislead you in any way.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ha! Took me a few months to get this far what's overnight~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I take it its ok to fill up the tube res then from the top then just carefully reseal it using a quarter or something.
> 
> Anywhoo, got the cables hooked up, and updated my build log, here's the result thus far~ and yes the metroid is extending out from the wall and has an LED inside it, will be putting an LED inside Samus's weapon as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: 8<


Well lets fill this sucker up! I've been watching this build log for a while and the anticipation is killing me!


----------



## wermad

Anyone know what the Akasa viper voltage range is? I can't find any specs w/ the minimum and start voltages.


----------



## kpoeticg

I could tell you Monday when I'm back at my apt, but they're PWM if that helps you at all...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ha! Took me a few months to get this far what's overnight~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I take it its ok to fill up the tube res then from the top then just carefully reseal it using a quarter or something.*
> 
> Anywhoo, got the cables hooked up, and updated my build log, here's the result thus far~ and yes the metroid is extending out from the wall and has an LED inside it, will be putting an LED inside Samus's weapon as well.


Does the tube res top have ports in it? If it does, then I think they are referring to removing the actual top, removing a PLUG to fill it won't void the warranty, if you remove the TOP that has the ports in it is what I think they are referring to.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Does the tube res top have ports in it? If it does, then I think they are referring to removing the actual top, removing a PLUG to fill it won't void the warranty, if you remove the TOP that has the ports in it is what I think they are referring to.


It's a gigantic fitting closed up on the top the in/out ports are underneath it. Gonna guess 7/8" fitting? if not 5/8" just trying to verify due to the warning that came w/ it stating its sealed @ the factory. Though wouldn't make sense as there HAS to be a way to fill it obviously....


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I can't tell you if it's truly bad for the sake of the block or not, but I can tell you that it looks like oxidation on copper [EDIT: I guess that's nickel plated copper?] that was once wet and is now dry. Perhaps a flushing and scrubbing is in order?
> 
> On a lighter note, the pattern of the water channel for that block looks like a little goldfish. I'm not sure why that amuses me but I think it's cute!


Yeah it is the goldfish! Hahah!

I'm also thinking its oxidation as I don't see any actual flaking, more like discoloration.

I'll open her up and have a closer look.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's the infamous EK nickel plate flaking issue they had on some their old blocks, I have some of the old ones like that also, it doesn't affect the performance of the block, but aesthetically it's ugly.
> 
> Three options:
> 
> 1. Send back to EK to have it replaced, probably at your expense as it's second hand, and definitely out slide it's warranty period.
> 
> 2. Take the block apart and find a local company that does Electroless Nickel playing and have it replated.
> 
> 3. Do nothing and just use the thing like it is.
> 
> I'm on the fence myself, the blocks I have that are like that are for GTX580's, so I'll probably just use them as is and not worry about it.
> 
> Edit: looking closer, I'm not sure I was correct, it looks like it COULD be old coolant trapped between the block and the plexi top. And since that's a Titan block, it might be under warranty still. Sorry if I mislead you in any way.


Hey, no worries.

I personally don't think its flaking and I only notice it on the surfaces that are in contact with the plexi, so I also came to believe it was trapped coolant which might have caused a reaction.

I deal with nickel plates on a larger scale for some of our lines of heat exchangers where I work, and we see similar discoloration/reaction with continuous heating and cooling cycles in our plate stacks.

I'll open her up nonetheless and have a closer look and see if a good scrubbing can get rid of it.

Thanks


----------



## wermad

I was gonna mention EK nickel failure on my reply to your post in the EK thread, but I fear they'll re-hire Tiborr









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I could tell you Monday when I'm back at my apt, but they're PWM if that helps you at all...


ah, totally forgot you gots some. Thanks buddy







. Helping a co-worker put a small loop together and he wants to go w/ 140mm fans and rads.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I was gonna mention EK nickel failure on my reply to your post in the EK thread, but I fear they'll re-hire Tiborr


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> ah, totally forgot you gots some. Thanks buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Helping a co-worker put a small loop together and he wants to go w/ 140mm fans and rads.


NP. It's probly hard to find the voltage specs cuz they're PWM. I still have all the packages for em, they should be listed somewhere in there =P

Even if they're not, I have a Bench/Test PSU I can check em with when I'm back on Monday.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> NP. It's probly hard to find the voltage specs cuz they're PWM. I still have all the packages for em, they should be listed somewhere in there =P
> Even if they're not, I have a Bench/Test PSU I can check em with when I'm back on Monday.


Only thing the box says is 12V, and the sticker on the hub doesn't say anything at all. Don't know if there might be something hidden underneath the Akasa sticker though.


----------



## friskiest

Opened her up, and it appears to rub off with some force












Any tips for polishing up nickel?

Thanks.


----------



## stickg1

Just be careful remounting the plexi top. Too much force on the screws will crack it!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Opened her up, and it appears to rub off with some force
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips for polishing up nickel?
> 
> Thanks.


Awesome









Use some plain ol' distilled (hot if possible). I know there's nickel polish out there but I can't remember a name of the top of my head. I hear, but not 100% sure, silver polish also works on nickel. Btw, Brasso, is not for nickel, but they do have a version for it (but I can't figure out the name







).


----------



## VSG

I have found thermal paste works nice on copper, not sure about nickel though.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Opened her up, and it appears to rub off with some force
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips for polishing up nickel?
> 
> Thanks.


I would get some of this stuff.

It works wonders on brass, and is supposed to be safe on copper, nickel, silver, bronze, you name it.

*But*, to be safest go with distilled, that way there's no risk of leaving different residue behind.


----------



## friskiest

Thanks guys.

Will go for distilled and elbow grease


----------



## SDMODNoob

Hey guys I was looking into some quick disconnects to make my rig easier to swap out components. Learned the hardway this month having to drain out my system 3 times just to swap out parts... This is my current configuration is this with 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I was thinking of getting

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20107/koo-369/Koolance_QD3_Quick_Disconnect_No-Spill_Coupling_Male_Threaded_G_14_BSPP_-_Black_QD3-MG4-BK.html

to directly connect to the EK bridge separating my GPUs from the loop and one to my nozzle to make a easy drain valve. Would one of these work connected to my 360 rad on top as well? If so I could connect it on the right side so I can separate my CPU block as well from the loop. What are your opinions on this?

Oh and this was the female connection I was going to get to go along with that threaded ones

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21946/koo-389/Koolance_QD3_Quick_Disconnect_No-Spill_Coupling_Female_Compression_for_13mm_x_19mm_12in_x_34in_-_Black_QD3-FS13X19-BK.html


----------



## BradleyW

My first ever loop. Sorry for the bad lighting. It was late at night so I needed flash.


----------



## LunaP

Wow.. acrylic is great so far but...


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My first ever loop. Sorry for the bad lighting. It was late at night so I needed flash.


I was trying to figure out why you had three hoses going into the res until I realized it was a trick of the angle on this shot.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well since your pump is up there with the bay res you will have to shut the pump off every time the water level in the bay res gets close to empty. But since you have all those massive rads and the extra tube res to fill, I would fill that tube res all the way to the top and let the water level in all the tubing get close to the bay-res level, then start filling and pumping the bay res. Otherwise you're going to be at it for a while, get comfortable and I hope you ordered some take-out because you ain't goin nowhere for a bit.


I second this. The bay res you have isn't that big, and you have to shut it off when the level is at half because the pump output is in the middle. It'll take you like 50 shut down/refills to get that thing filled up.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wow.. acrylic is great so far but...


Haha, my next build WILL be acrylic (or nickel plated copper) and it will look awesome like all of you guys's builds do! The only thing I fear is the PITA factor. Having to redo any tube bending and cutting anytime I want to add or change hardware seems like a, well, PITA!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I was trying to figure out why you had three hoses going into the res until I realized it was a trick of the angle on this shot.


It got me too......


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wow.. acrylic is great so far but...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Haha, my next build WILL be acrylic (or nickel plated copper) and it will look awesome like all of you guys's builds do! The only thing I fear is the PITA factor. Having to redo any tube bending and cutting anytime I want to add or change hardware seems like a, well, PITA!


Sorry for some reason the pics didn't upload, had to upload to my email and load them from my comp vs phone. Acrylic is sealed shut but wth, its leaking from the PUMP???????


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sorry for some reason the pics didn't upload, had to upload to my email and load them from my comp vs phone. Acrylic is sealed shut but wth, its leaking from the PUMP???????
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/spoiler


Did YOU put that res together, or rely on whomever it was bought through to assemble it, and if YOU didn't assemble it, did you verify it was put together tightly??


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Did YOU put that res together, or rely on whomever it was bought through to assemble it, and if YOU didn't assemble it, did you verify it was put together tightly??


Frozen CPU put it together, they installed the pump inside. I opened the back plate to verify early on but never touched the pump everything was rock solid inside so I just screwed the cover plate back on but its not the cover plate that's leaking its coming out the holes in which the wiring comes out which leads me to believe it's where the pump is attached...

gonna have to get a small bowel to put under this thing in case I open it in the back, is this even fixable?

For now just gonna flip it on for a brief moment to help push the water out that's in there vs waiting for it all to slowly drip out.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Frozen CPU put it together, they installed the pump inside. I opened the back plate to verify early on but never touched the pump everything was rock solid inside so I just screwed the cover plate back on but its not the cover plate that's leaking its coming out the holes in which the wiring comes out which leads me to believe it's where the pump is attached...
> 
> gonna have to get a small bowel to put under this thing in case I open it in the back, is this even fixable?
> 
> For now just gonna flip it on for a brief moment to help push the water out that's in there vs waiting for it all to slowly drip out.


Yes, it should be fixable since the pump is removable, I bet it just needs to be tightened down some more.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, it should be fixable since the pump is removable, I bet it just needs to be tightened down some more.


ok good news is everything else turns on (fans,lights, controller ) GPU's / motherboard are unplugged, and if this is 100% w/ the GT's then wow that's pretty low key there. nice air movement too.

Anywhoo pump isn't starting up at ALL, I have the power plugged in and the pump plugged into the fan controller channel though , looking through the manual don't see anywhere else and the aquabus area but its stating Aquabus only, so taking suggestions.

For the record my fan controller is the aquaeros 6.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ok good news is everything else turns on (fans,lights, controller ) GPU's / motherboard are unplugged, and if this is 100% w/ the GT's then wow that's pretty low key there. nice air movement too.
> 
> Anywhoo pump isn't starting up at ALL, I have the power plugged in and the pump plugged into the fan controller channel though , looking through the manual don't see anywhere else and the aquabus area but its stating Aquabus only, so taking suggestions.
> 
> For the record my fan controller is the aquaeros 6.


Have you tried connecting the pump directly to the power supply?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Have you tried connecting the pump directly to the power supply?


Currently is. Lights go on on the bay and all just nothing from the pump.

Well molex connectors for both the bay and the pump are into the PSU, as far as the 4 pin PWM connector I don't have a converter for that for the PSU, its currently on the Aquaero 6 in one of the fan channels.

Edit

Well after about an hour or so of papertowels etc, tilted the case back a bit to help some of the water out of the res into the loop. Though oddly I started getting some water dripping from under the case out one of the screw holes, I'm REALLY hoping it was just from excess water dripping out a bit but we'll see. Thread's kinda dead and I don't feel like ripping everything out tonight gonna leave the wad of papertowels in there and attack it in the morning.

This really sucks.


----------



## Anoxy

Ok, all you aesthetics monsters, what would look better, transplanting my all-black build into a white Caselabs SM8 or a black one?

I'll be throwing a 240mm UT60 in the bottom as well.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ok, all you aesthetics monsters, what would look better, transplanting my all-black build into a white Caselabs SM8 or a black one?
> 
> I'll be throwing a 240mm UT60 in the bottom as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Black....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ok, all you aesthetics monsters, what would look better, transplanting my all-black build into a white Caselabs SM8 or a black one?
> 
> I'll be throwing a 240mm UT60 in the bottom as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Definitely white! Black is too common! That's why I went with white on my STH10, my S3 is black though, as is my SM8 Reverse.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sorry for some reason the pics didn't upload, had to upload to my email and load them from my comp vs phone. Acrylic is sealed shut but wth, its leaking from the PUMP???????


Pop it out and make sure the o-ring is in. Just unscrew the metal housing around the pump. Also, unplug it from the fan controller. It's possible that's what's causing it. It'll just run at full speed.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Definitely white! Black is too common! That's why I went with white on my STH10, my S3 is black though, as is my SM8 Reverse.


I was thinking the contrast of all my black components would look cool against the sterile white background of the SM8. idk though


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ok, all you aesthetics monsters, what would look better, transplanting my all-black build into a white Caselabs SM8 or a black one?
> 
> I'll be throwing a 240mm UT60 in the bottom as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Black....


This. Black. Preferably matte black if possible. I'm not a big fan of glossy finishes since they tend to be a fingerprint magnet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My first ever loop. Sorry for the bad lighting. It was late at night so I needed flash.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Luvs me some Elysium goodness


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ok, all you aesthetics monsters, what would look better, transplanting my all-black build into a white Caselabs SM8 or a black one?
> 
> I'll be throwing a 240mm UT60 in the bottom as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmm tough call......

The black is sweet, but having contrasting colors is nice too......I think I would keep it all black. But maybe work in some white or other color with the fans or fluid or something. I think the noctua fan has to go first and foremost tho


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hmm tough call......
> 
> The black is sweet, but having contrasting colors is nice too......I think I would keep it all black. But maybe work in some white or other color with the fans or fluid or something. *I think the noctua fan has to go first and foremost tho*


]

Haha no doubt that's going. I just knew I'd be migrating cases soon so I didn't bother removing it.

I'll also probably get a Bitspower tube res like this to replace my tank.


I really like the look of luciddreamer124's white SM8, but he used black sparkle fittings, so it might not look as cool with mine.

edti: ehhhhhh I think I'll just stick with black


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Gotta love dem Bitspower res/pump combos







can be a pita to fill tho if you have the drain port on the pump top


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> ]
> 
> Haha no doubt that's going. I just knew I'd be migrating cases soon so I didn't bother removing it.
> 
> I'll also probably get a Bitspower tube res like this to replace my tank.
> 
> 
> I really like the look of luciddreamer124's white SM8, but he used black sparkle fittings, so it might not look as cool with mine.


Can't go wrong with the Bitspower res

And his fittings with the white case do look nice. I still think your build would look good in white, but better in black


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Gotta love dem Bitspower res/pump combos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can be a pita to fill tho if you have the drain port on the pump top


That's why you buy the Multi-Port top for it!!!


----------



## OdinValk

I am fairly new to water cooling.. though I have owned a couple of corsairs closed loops AiO coolers.. I have yet to build a custom loop.. I plan to start my first in a couple months.. but I have a question that I would like answered before I throw all the money into the parts needed to build the loop...

mainly.. will I see a real decrease in temps over what I am getting now?.. I know the AMD FX chips have poor sensors.. probably placed in a goofy place to give accurate temps.. but from what I get from BIOS and a few monitoring programs I am getting temps around 23 degrees C at idle.. and about 29-31 under 100% load with Prime95.. I am currently running an AMD FX-6300 OC'd to 4.4ghz and the Corsair H100i AiO cooler works REALLY well... but I would still like to build my own loop.. mainly because they look nice.. and I enjoy learning and building new things.. (even though I will probably have to totally rebuild my case lol.. the carbide series cases were built with water cooling in mind... except mainly for corsair's hydro series but I am pretty sure I can pull it off....

but like I ask.. will I see a noticable difference in temps using a custom loop? greater than or equal to 5 degrees lower? I know its hard to cool lower than the ambient temps in the room in which your pc is running.. but still.. I'd like to know before I spend all that money just to look cool lol

thanks in advance


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's why you buy the Multi-Port top for it!!!


And fill all the ports









If you use the Modtop V2 with the res like in the pic you only have 3 ports, 2 in 1 out


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Frozen CPU put it together, they installed the pump inside. I opened the back plate to verify early on but never touched the pump everything was rock solid inside so I just screwed the cover plate back on but its not the cover plate that's leaking its coming out the holes in which the wiring comes out which leads me to believe it's where the pump is attached...
> 
> gonna have to get a small bowel to put under this thing in case I open it in the back, is this even fixable?
> 
> For now just gonna flip it on for a brief moment to help push the water out that's in there vs waiting for it all to slowly drip out.


Doesn't the back part of that res just screw on over the pump? It seems like the O-ring isn't sealing.

The bad news is that pump should be running any time it is plugged into an active power supply, at least at the minimum 25%, if not at full speed as they are factory set.. They are pretty quite at minimum speed.

If water got onto the back of the pump, as seems likely, and you then powered it on, its possible the MPS board has been killed.
Edit: Nevermind, I assumed when you mentioned Aquabus that it was the USB pump. Still, water should never allowed onto the back area of any D5 pump because they aren't water proof. Some people have been having trouble getting PWM pumps to work with the AQ6, but even if it gets no Signal it should still run.

Everything needs to be unplugged and disassembled, dried off and tested.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I am fairly new to water cooling.. though I have owned a couple of corsairs closed loops AiO coolers.. I have yet to build a custom loop.. I plan to start my first in a couple months.. but I have a question that I would like answered before I throw all the money into the parts needed to build the loop...
> 
> mainly.. will I see a real decrease in temps over what I am getting now?.. I know the AMD FX chips have poor sensors.. probably placed in a goofy place to give accurate temps.. but from what I get from BIOS and a few monitoring programs I am getting temps around 23 degrees C at idle.. and about 29-31 under 100% load with Prime95.. I am currently running an AMD FX-6300 OC'd to 4.4ghz and the Corsair H100i AiO cooler works REALLY well... but I would still like to build my own loop.. mainly because they look nice.. and I enjoy learning and building new things.. (even though I will probably have to totally rebuild my case lol.. the carbide series cases were built with water cooling in mind... except mainly for corsair's hydro series but I am pretty sure I can pull it off....
> 
> but like I ask.. will I see a noticable difference in temps using a custom loop? greater than or equal to 5 degrees lower? I know its hard to cool lower than the ambient temps in the room in which your pc is running.. but still.. I'd like to know before I spend all that money just to look cool lol
> 
> thanks in advance


If you're only planning to cool your CPU, it's not worth it. But if you're going to throw in a GPU or two, that's when I'd say go for it









Also, you can't cool below ambient.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The bad news is that pump should be running any time it is plugged into an active power supply, at least at the minimum 25%, if not at full speed as they are factory set.. They are pretty quite at minimum speed.
> 
> If water got onto the back of the pump, as seems likely, and you then powered it on, its possible the MPS board has been killed.
> Edit: Nevermind, I assumed when you mentioned Aquabus that it was the USB pump. Still, water should never allowed onto the back area of any D5 pump because they aren't water proof. Some people have been having trouble getting PWM pumps to work with the AQ6, but even if it gets no Signal it should still run.


It won't run if the PWM cable is plugged into something that isn't turned on. I know because I always forget to unplug it from my mobo when I do leak tests and it doesn't turn on (I have the same pump).


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> If you're only planning to cool your CPU, it's not worth it. But if you're going to throw in a GPU or two, that's when I'd say go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, you can't cool below ambient.


well you CAN cool below ambient.. but only with extreme cooling like dry ice or whatever.. and only for short periods of time..

so basically.. unless I am cooling both the CPU and GPU.. its not worth it.. other than for looks... hmm.. thats what I figured.. unfortunately.. a waterblock and back plate do not currently exsist for the MSI gaming cards.. as they are not reference cards like the EVGA or Gigabyte cards.. MSI gaming edition cards have different size and dimensions than the regular cards.. ohwell

thanks for the answers!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> well you CAN cool below ambient.. but only with extreme cooling like dry ice or whatever.. and only for short periods of time..
> 
> so basically.. unless I am cooling both the CPU and GPU.. its not worth it.. other than for looks... hmm.. thats what I figured.. unfortunately.. a waterblock and back plate do not currently exsist for the MSI gaming cards.. as they are not reference cards like the EVGA or Gigabyte cards.. MSI gaming edition cards have different size and dimensions than the regular cards.. ohwell
> 
> thanks for the answers!


I'm pretty sure for most water coolers, there will be a point where water cooling is all about aesthetic look (and overkill)
That's what I'm currently doing with new pc, I dont care how they perform as long as it looks good

Most of water cooling products nowadays has little to no difference on performance within the competitors
and I found most of the good looking one is also a well built and good performance like AC products
which also come with high price


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> well you CAN cool below ambient.. but only with extreme cooling like dry ice or whatever.. and only for short periods of time..
> 
> so basically.. unless I am cooling both the CPU and GPU.. its not worth it.. other than for looks... hmm.. thats what I figured.. unfortunately.. a waterblock and back plate do not currently exsist for the MSI gaming cards.. as they are not reference cards like the EVGA or Gigabyte cards.. MSI gaming edition cards have different size and dimensions than the regular cards.. ohwell
> 
> thanks for the answers!
> 
> 
> 
> *I'm pretty sure for most water coolers, there will be a point where water cooling is all about aesthetic look* (and overkill)
> That's what I'm currently doing with new pc, I dont care how they perform as long as it looks good
> 
> Most of water cooling products nowadays has little to no difference on performance within the competitors
> and I found most of the good looking one is also a well built and good performance like AC products
> which also come with high price
Click to expand...

Now WC gear is matured,this is exactly how I see it now,the obsessing about flow rates and relative temps fade away when you have tested lots of different kit and find that all of it performs the same,when you realize that nothing is really thermally limited anymore like 1366 and below then its more an aesthetic exercise.
Blasphemy I know but true none the less.

Quality,Reliability and Aesthetics are my criteria for selection now.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now WC gear is matured,this is exactly how I see it now,the obsessing about flow rates and relative temps fade away when you have tested lots of different kit and find that all of it performs the same,when you realize that nothing is really thermally limited anymore like 1366 and below then its more an aesthetic exercise.
> Blasphemy I know but true none the less.
> 
> Quality,Reliability and Aesthetics are my criteria for selection now.


Amén!

I also look for maximum silence


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Not on topic but im well chuffed with it.



Airbrushed the Caselabs logo on,looks good neh?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Good handy work there


----------



## stickg1

I like the chameleon paint job

After running this new revision of my loop with all fans set for intake, it actually somehow made my temps a little higher on the CPU. Perhaps because now instead of GPU -> rear 120mm rad -> CPU, it now goes directly from GPU to CPU. My temps are generated from both CPU and GPU Folding so both are active.

Unfortunately I would have to redo two entire runs to go back to the way I had it before, and I'm out of tubing. So it will have to stay like this for the time being.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I like the chameleon paint job
> 
> After running this new revision of my loop with all fans set for intake, it actually somehow made my temps a little higher on the CPU. Perhaps because now instead of GPU -> rear 120mm rad -> CPU, it now goes directly from GPU to CPU. My temps are generated from both CPU and GPU Folding so both are active.
> 
> Unfortunately I would have to redo two entire runs to go back to the way I had it before, and I'm out of tubing. So it will have to stay like this for the time being.


you're probably getting heat contaminated water from the gpu flowing over the cpu.. plus depending on where your radiators are.. you could be getting poor airflow or even turbulance.. if you have air coming in from say the front AND the top.. it would create turbulence..


----------



## pc-illiterate

whats the difference in your water temps stick?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> whats the difference in your water temps stick?


IDK, I don't have a way to measure it currently. I got a BP water temp probe but then realized I can't use it until I get a fan controller. I thought the Z77 MPower had a few 2-pin temp headers but I was confused with my old motherboard (ASUS MVF) which did have a couple of temp reading headers.

Oh well, guess I'll just have to get me one of those fan controllers.

EDIT: Is there just a little LED display I can get to display the temp inside the case somewhere?


----------



## pc-illiterate

the new xspc temp sensor v2 you can add your sensor
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37734
but it also comes with its own sensor.

check the pictures.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the new xspc temp sensor v2 you can add your sensor
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37734
> but it also comes with its own sensor.
> 
> check the pictures.


That's perfect! I'll order it when I order some coolant or corrosion inhibitor.

Speaking of which, any recommendations? I use distilled water with Mayhem's Biocide Extreme and a couple drops of Mayhems Ocean Blue dye. But with all these corroded blocks I keep seeing I'm getting a bit paranoid that I need some more protection.

EDIT: Those XSPC temp sensors, can I get this one that doesn't come with the plug and add my own? This is the same as the one you linked correct? The plug is interchangable? It doesn't show a picture of the back of the device so I'm not sure. This one is the color I want though, I can't find one in yellow like the one you linked just a minute ago.


----------



## VSG

I got some spare Swiftech Hydrx if you want. Might as well get rid of them. It is UV green though!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> EDIT: Those XSPC temp sensors, can I get this one that doesn't come with the plug and add my own? This is the same as the one you linked correct? The plug is interchangable? It doesn't show a picture of the back of the device so I'm not sure. This one is the color I want though, I can't find one in yellow like the one you linked just a minute ago.


i think only the v2 with g1/4 fittings have the removable connector. write or call perfpc or fcpu to make sure. im sure someone there knows or will open a box so they have the answer for someone else in the future.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> It won't run if the PWM cable is plugged into something that isn't turned on. I know because I always forget to unplug it from my mobo when I do leak tests and it doesn't turn on (I have the same pump).


But it is turned on the aquaero6.. is lighting up and the 32 fans are running fine. Hopefully the motor isn't dead everything looks dry thus morning so I'll pull it out.


----------



## stickg1

I'm thinking if the water was dripping out the back of the pump housing then the PCB on the pump got wet. Then if powered up wet it might have been damaged. Otherwise, it will need a while to dry out.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's perfect! I'll order it when I order some coolant or corrosion inhibitor.
> 
> Speaking of which, any recommendations? I use distilled water with Mayhem's Biocide Extreme and a couple drops of Mayhems Ocean Blue dye. But with all these corroded blocks I keep seeing I'm getting a bit paranoid that I need some more protection.
> 
> EDIT: Those XSPC temp sensors, can I get this one that doesn't come with the plug and add my own? This is the same as the one you linked correct? The plug is interchangable? It doesn't show a picture of the back of the device so I'm not sure. This one is the color I want though, I can't find one in yellow like the one you linked just a minute ago.


If the temp probe isn't removable and you want to use your own temp plug you can always cut the stock probe off the LCD display and solder your Bitspower temp plug on in it's place. I kind of did that with the temp probes that came with the Lamptron FCT. I had some inline water temperature fittings and they were too short to reach back to the fan controller so I took of the the probes that came with the fan controller and cut the probe off, and a 2-pin male connector and pluged the inline sensor into it


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I like the chameleon paint job
> 
> After running this new revision of my loop with all fans set for intake, it actually somehow made my temps a little higher on the CPU. Perhaps because now instead of GPU -> rear 120mm rad -> CPU, it now goes directly from GPU to CPU. My temps are generated from both CPU and GPU Folding so both are active.
> 
> Unfortunately I would have to redo two entire runs to go back to the way I had it before, and I'm out of tubing. So it will have to stay like this for the time being.


If you changed tubing and loop order also when you switched the fans to intake then you invalidated the temp results also, since the loop is now different AND you moved the fans.

You should have left the loop the way it was and just switched the airflow direction of the fans to get a proper before and after on the temps.


----------



## stickg1

Right, I basically just moved the rear 120 exhaust radiator to the floor of the case as an intake. Then switched the fans on the top 240 rad. I still like this order better aesthetically, even if the temps are up. I could always just turn the fans up, or just get over it. The temps are still well within reason. Just slightly higher.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I like the chameleon paint job
> 
> After running this new revision of my loop with all fans set for intake, it actually somehow made my temps a little higher on the CPU. Perhaps because now instead of GPU -> rear 120mm rad -> CPU, it now goes directly from GPU to CPU. My temps are generated from both CPU and GPU Folding so both are active.
> 
> Unfortunately I would have to redo two entire runs to go back to the way I had it before, and I'm out of tubing. So it will have to stay like this for the time being.
> 
> 
> 
> If you changed tubing and loop order also when you switched the fans to intake then you invalidated the temp results also, since the loop is now different AND you moved the fans.
> 
> You should have left the loop the way it was and just switched the airflow direction of the fans to get a proper before and after on the temps.
Click to expand...

Also, you need to have measured the ambient temps from before and now to validate any tests, since cooling is dependent on the ambients

Side note: With those SP120s, man, I really would put them as push exhaust as you had them...100% better aesthetically


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm thinking if the water was dripping out the back of the pump housing then the PCB on the pump got wet. Then if powered up wet it might have been damaged. Otherwise, it will need a while to dry out.


hope not seeing as it looks like it was meant to have water around it + the cables were covered somewhat.

Finally pulled it down and using paper towels to keep any water from the top lines going out.

For the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the pump. In the videos I saw them screw the red part no but regardless of force I cna't get it to budge.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wow.. acrylic is great so far but...
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for some reason the pics didn't upload, had to upload to my email and load them from my comp vs phone. Acrylic is sealed shut but wth, its leaking from the PUMP???????
Click to expand...

About a week or two ago, I posted a "how to" on how to make a budget air leak down setup for well under $100, even if you ordered everything new from McMaster.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480#post_21458126

You may want to go back and peruse that post before you find any more leaks the hard / expensive way.

The air tester costs less than that pump you probably just fried, and that's not even considering the hassle of having to disassemble stuff to swap it out.

I can not for the life of me, understand how guys can spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a hi end build, and then put it all at risk by filling it with water without knowing if it's going to leak big time or not.

If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.

If you find that it leaks after you get it all assembled, just start isolating and testing smaller segments until you drill down to the problem.

Hope you didn't end up with too much damage,

Darlene


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> About a week or two ago, I posted a "how to" on how to make a budget air leak down setup for well under $100, even if you ordered everything new from McMaster.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480#post_21458126
> 
> You may want to go back and peruse that post before you find any more leaks the hard / expensive way.
> 
> The air tester costs less than that pump you probably just fried, and that's not even considering the hassle of having to disassemble stuff to swap it out.
> 
> I can not for the life of me, understand how guys can spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a hi end build, and then put it all at risk by filling it with water without knowing if it's going to leak big time or not.
> 
> If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.
> 
> If you find that it leaks after you get it all assembled, just start isolating and testing smaller segments until you drill down to the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you didn't end up with too much damage,
> 
> Darlene


Appreciate it and I used a lesser method for air testing prior, it just never dawned on me w/ the pump since everything that's come from FCPU seems to be professionally installed.

Either way I may end up having to get a completely new bay res as I've no idea how they sealed this pump in there but no matter what video or instruction I watch it shows you can easily unscrew the red part, and I feel like my wrist is about to snap if I apply anymore pressure as its NOT coming off... I can see further in w/ the flashlight and it does look like in 1 section the o-ring came out about 1mm for about 3mm in diameter before going back in.

Nothing smells burnt, the bayres itself works and lights up, just the pump never made a click or turned on so I may just have never had it hooked up properly to begin with.

If anyone has had any experience using these and knows how to remove the back part that surrounds the pump I'd greatly appreciate your methods on how to unscrew this thing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I wouldn't even try to take it apart. If you haven't already I'd call FrozenCPU right away and let them know about the issue and see what they can do about it. Definitely call them instead of email so you get a response right away. Their number is on the top of every page. It's been my experience that they will remedy something like this post haste.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Appreciate it and I used a lesser method for air testing prior, it just never dawned on me w/ the pump since everything that's come from FCPU seems to be professionally installed.
> 
> Either way I may end up having to get a completely new bay res as I've no idea how they sealed this pump in there but no matter what video or instruction I watch it shows you can easily unscrew the red part, and I feel like my wrist is about to snap if I apply anymore pressure as its NOT coming off... I can see further in w/ the flashlight and it does look like in 1 section the o-ring came out about 1mm for about 3mm in diameter before going back in.
> 
> Nothing smells burnt, the bayres itself works and lights up, just the pump never made a click or turned on so I may just have never had it hooked up properly to begin with.
> 
> If anyone has had any experience using these and knows how to remove the back part that surrounds the pump I'd greatly appreciate your methods on how to unscrew this thing.


Honestly bud I think you need to just mount a D5 under that Photon res and call it a day.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Honestly bud I think you need to just mount a D5 under that Photon res and call it a day.


This. Do away with the bay res completely. It only complicates things.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Appreciate it and I used a lesser method for air testing prior, it just never dawned on me w/ the pump since everything that's come from FCPU seems to be professionally installed.
> 
> Either way I may end up having to get a completely new bay res as I've no idea how they sealed this pump in there but no matter what video or instruction I watch it shows you can easily unscrew the red part, and I feel like my wrist is about to snap if I apply anymore pressure as its NOT coming off... I can see further in w/ the flashlight and it does look like in 1 section the o-ring came out about 1mm for about 3mm in diameter before going back in.
> 
> Nothing smells burnt, the bayres itself works and lights up, just the pump never made a click or turned on so I may just have never had it hooked up properly to begin with.
> 
> If anyone has had any experience using these and knows how to remove the back part that surrounds the pump I'd greatly appreciate your methods on how to unscrew this thing.


Don't know if you have this or not.
http://www.dangerden.com/images/stories/instructions/reservoirs/mon_premium_d5_instructions.pdf

If you can't unthread it,I hope FCPU didn't cross thread the pump on.Anyway,good luck.


----------



## stickg1

Luna it looks like there's a little set screw on that pump housing. Remove/loosen the set screw and it should unscrew easily. But contact FCPU first.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Luna it looks like there's a little set screw on that pump housing. Remove/loosen the set screw and it should unscrew easily. But contact FCPU first.


Where are you referring to , the 2 tiny screws that hold on the backplate for putting wires in ? That one's already off.

Other than that I already contacted FCPU first thing this morning, and from what they said the PWM pumps are pretty resilient in case of water getting in, and luckily this shipped w/ 2 O-Rings.

I'll try to find this other screw you're mentioning though, but I refuse to ditch this pump, I appreciate the aesthetics / setup's people are trying to push me at but ultimately it's my build and I want to run it the way I designed it before moving on to something else. Regardless of switching out the pump I'd still get hit on for having a pump @ the bottom and have to re-run things all over again.

Waiting on a response from Joe since he's the guru for this stuff. If anything I'll just order the same res/pump combo today and send this one back monday.

Gonna get a dish towel and wrap it around it for more torque.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wow.. acrylic is great so far but...
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for some reason the pics didn't upload, had to upload to my email and load them from my comp vs phone. Acrylic is sealed shut but wth, its leaking from the PUMP???????
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> About a week or two ago, I posted a "how to" on how to make a budget air leak down setup for well under $100, even if you ordered everything new from McMaster.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480#post_21458126
> 
> You may want to go back and peruse that post before you find any more leaks the hard / expensive way.
> 
> The air tester costs less than that pump you probably just fried, and that's not even considering the hassle of having to disassemble stuff to swap it out.
> 
> *I can not for the life of me, understand how guys can spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a hi end build, and then put it all at risk by filling it with water without knowing if it's going to leak big time or not.*
> 
> If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.
> 
> If you find that it leaks after you get it all assembled, just start isolating and testing smaller segments until you drill down to the problem.
> 
> Hope you didn't end up with too much damage,
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Exactly this.

Air>Water for testing.

If you have a slow leak then use some diluted dish soap and a q-tip,run it round any joins and leaks form bubbles. Easy.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly this.
> 
> Air>Water for testing.
> 
> If you have a slow leak then use some diluted dish soap and a q-tip,run it round any joins and leaks form bubbles. Easy.


This is a no brainer.Exactly what plumbers do before they fill.

Luna,look at the pdf link I posted it explains everything about your pump/res what to do & not do.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> This is a no brainer.Exactly what plumbers do before they fill.
> 
> Luna,look at the pdf link I posted it explains everything about your pump/res what to do & not do.


This diagram is where I noticed the set screw, check the diagram.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> This is a no brainer.Exactly what plumbers do before they fill.
> 
> Luna,look at the pdf link I posted it explains everything about your pump/res what to do & not do.


No brainer for some not all, As I stated I ran an air test prior... this is why we're here to learn we see and follow what other people do so that's how things end up how they are at times, not everything gets covered I get it.

I have the same manual it has nothing that covers this. I have nothing I can wrap around it to budge it, so I'm going to guess its cross threaded or they used some sort of machine/tool to really pump it inside.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> This diagram is where I noticed the set screw, check the diagram.


since there are multiple diagrams I'll assume you're referring to the end cap which is off in the last photo I posted. Other than that I'm not seeing any other screws that would relate to it. Appreciate it though.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Luna it looks like there's a little set screw on that pump housing. Remove/loosen the set screw and it should unscrew easily. But contact FCPU first.
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you referring to , the 2 tiny screws that hold on the backplate for putting wires in ? That one's already off.
> 
> Other than that I already contacted FCPU first thing this morning, and from what they said the PWM pumps are pretty resilient in case of water getting in, and luckily this shipped w/ 2 O-Rings.
> 
> I'll try to find this other screw you're mentioning though, but I refuse to ditch this pump, I appreciate the aesthetics / setup's people are trying to push me at but ultimately it's my build and I want to run it the way I designed it before moving on to something else. Regardless of switching out the pump I'd still get hit on for having a pump @ the bottom and have to re-run things all over again.
> 
> Waiting on a response from Joe since he's the guru for this stuff. If anything I'll just order the same res/pump combo today and send this one back monday.
> 
> Gonna get a dish towel and wrap it around it for more torque.
Click to expand...

My guess is that they cross threaded the damn thing, which put more pressure on one side of the pump flange, that then squirreled the o ring out of place on the opposite side because there isn't any clamping force against the flange to hold it against the delrin.

Luna, take a good pic from the side so you can see if the motor sleeve is slightly cockeyed where it screws into the res.

If it's crossed or over tightened to where it ripped the delrin, you may need a rubber strap wrench to undo it.

Also, the evenness of the gap around the motor and sleeve, when viewed from the rear, could be an indication of cross threading if it's not exactly the same all around.

Darlene


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> No brainer for some not all, As I stated I ran an air test prior... this is why we're here to learn we see and follow what other people do so that's how things end up how they are at times, not everything gets covered I get it.
> 
> I have the same manual it has nothing that covers this. I have nothing I can wrap around it to budge it, so I'm going to guess its cross threaded or they used some sort of machine/tool to really pump it inside.
> since there are multiple diagrams I'll assume you're referring to the end cap which is off in the last photo I posted. Other than that I'm not seeing any other screws that would relate to it. Appreciate it though.


No tool/machine should be used to install or remove a pump to a pump body,only hand thread.If FCPU installed the pump incorrectly,send it back.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My guess is that they cross threaded the damn thing, which put more pressure on one side of the pump flange, that then squirreled the o ring out of place on the opposite side because there isn't any clamping force against the flange to hold it against the delrin.
> 
> Luna, take a good pic from the side so you can see if the motor sleeve is slightly cockeyed where it screws into the res.
> 
> If it's crossed or over tightened to where it ripped the delrin, you may need a rubber strap wrench to undo it.
> 
> Darlene


Hmm doesn't appear to be..




Ignore the BP fitting that's where I was filling it from and used that as a temp cap.


----------



## stickg1

There's no set screws here?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> There's no set screws here?


No I removed them, they hold the cap that the wires go through. That was in this photo.



Though in the above photos it's removed, there are 2 very TINY screws though.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My guess is that they cross threaded the damn thing, which put more pressure on one side of the pump flange, that then squirreled the o ring out of place on the opposite side because there isn't any clamping force against the flange to hold it against the delrin.
> 
> Luna, take a good pic from the side so you can see if the motor sleeve is slightly cockeyed where it screws into the res.
> 
> If it's crossed or over tightened to where it ripped the delrin, you may need a rubber strap wrench to undo it.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm doesn't appear to be..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the BP fitting that's where I was filling it from and used that as a temp cap.
Click to expand...

It looks good, for as much as you can tell from pics.

Gotta wonder how they got it so farkin' tight though, sheeeesh.

wonder if they used a strap wrench or a minimum wage gorilla?

Did you try using a leather belt with vise grips to unscrew it?

Darlene


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It looks good, for as much as you can tell from pics.
> 
> Gotta wonder how they got it so farkin' tight though, sheeeesh.
> 
> Did you try using a leather belt with vise grips to unscrew it?
> 
> Darlene


I'll try that, currently have the manager from FCPU on the line as well.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll try that, currently have the manager from FCPU on the line as well.


Nice, ask him about those XSPC temp displays while you got him, lol. I need to know if the temp sensors are interchangeable!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Nice, ask him about those XSPC temp displays while you got him, lol. I need to know if the temp sensors are interchangeable!


Which , he's gonna call me back they're gonna see what they can do, and no go on the belt, it's like this thing is one w/ the res. Pulled so hard I ripped skin.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Threadlocked maybe?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly this.
> 
> Air>Water for testing.
> 
> If you have a slow leak then use some diluted dish soap and a q-tip,run it round any joins and leaks form bubbles. Easy.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a no brainer.Exactly what plumbers do before they fill.
Click to expand...

I know,I was one.

I went thru airtesting in this thread about 8-9 months ago,its just better that way.


----------



## fa5terba11

I just wanna say - I love this thread. I follow it religiously. I have learned so much and although I won't be doing anything to my system anytime soon I love to see what new things y'all come up with. Thanks for all the great posts.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Threadlocked maybe?


It's beginning to sound like locktite red, lol . . .

D.


----------



## LunaP

Last resort...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm doesn't appear to be..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the BP fitting that's where I was filling it from and used that as a temp cap.


You said you can see that part of the oring is sticking out, if it's in between the threads on the housing and that trim ring, it could be acting like thread like a thread locker and making it very hard to unscrew.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Last resort...


just get you a nice set of channel locks and something to act as a buffer inbetween so as not to mar up the nice finish.. channel locks will work better than a pipe wrench.. or.. maybe their is something more you aren't seeing holding it on?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Threadlocked maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> It's beginning to sound like locktite red, lol . . .
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

Not the first time I have seen it done...Hell,I HAVE done it myself (koolance D5 tops that just fell apart...both of them....its still raw so i dont talk about it)

It was a chore getting them out again,luckily Koolance made such poor fitting tops that they came apart eventually.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Last resort...


Ohh Jeeez no, not that . . . it'll ruin everything it comes near.

Go get one of these first:

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/2-strap-wrench-set/945051

Darlene


----------



## LunaP

Got it...


----------



## Jimhans1

When all else fails, get a bigger hammer!! Or pipe wrench,







!!


----------



## pc-illiterate

you should not have done that if they would have taken it back. since you 'undid' what they 'did', they dont have to do anything because you have no proof.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> When all else fails, get a bigger hammer!! Or pipe wrench,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!


dont force it. get a bigger hammer.


----------



## IT Diva

Indeed you did!

What did you find, now that it's all in plain sight ?

Displaced o ring, missing o ring, ring around the o ring? . . .

Bad thread on the sleeve?

The suspense is killing us.

Darlene


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you should not have done that if they would have taken it back. since you 'undid' what they 'did', they dont have to do anything because you have no proof.
> dont force it. get a bigger hammer.


Nah I had them on the phone while I did it they have no issue taking it back. Heck it was their recommendation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Indeed you did!
> 
> What did you find, now that it's all in plain sight ?
> 
> Displaced o ring, missing o ring, ring around the o ring? . . .
> 
> Bad thread on the sleeve?
> 
> The suspense is killing us.
> 
> Darlene


Neither.

One ring looked fine I reattached and retested and still leaked.

Redid it with a different (spare) and still leaked...

So they issued me an rma.


----------



## pc-illiterate

im glad they ok'd it. would suck to do that and them tell tell you "its your fault, sorry"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you should not have done that if they would have taken it back. since you 'undid' what they 'did', they dont have to do anything because you have no proof.
> dont force it. get a bigger hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> Nah I had them on the phone while I did it they have no issue taking it back. Heck it was their recommendation.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Indeed you did!
> 
> What did you find, now that it's all in plain sight ?
> 
> Displaced o ring, missing o ring, ring around the o ring? . . .
> 
> Bad thread on the sleeve?
> 
> The suspense is killing us.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Neither.
> 
> One ring looked fine I reattached and retested and still leaked.
> 
> Redid it with a different (spare) and still leaked...
> 
> So they issued me an rma.
Click to expand...

Did you inspect the mating faces? Got some close up pics?


----------



## John Freeman

I need some help guys. I just finished my loop amd I'm trying to bleed it. At first the pump wouldn't pull any water amd then the power supply stopped turning on with the paper clip. What should I do. I just tried again with another psu and same thing. It wouldn't turn on


----------



## coolmiester

Interesting to see if they used the black O ring or the red one as these things come with two which i found quite interesting.......the black one for Novice users and the red for Advanced users









I also noticed once the red aluminium pump mounts, once screwed down hand tight were pretty hard to un-screw - no particular reason, i just think the fine threads of the aluminium and acetal lock together somehow and make it a little difficult to unscrew though i didn't have to resort to a monkey wrench.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Interesting to see if they used the black O ring or the red one as these things come with two which i found quite interesting.......the black one for Novice users and the red for Advanced users
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also noticed once the red aluminium pump mounts, once screwed down hand tight were pretty hard to un-screw - no particular reason, i just think the fine threads of the aluminium and acetal lock together somehow and make it a little difficult to unscrew though i didn't have to resort to a monkey wrench.


Advanced O-rings....whatever next....

How you been Chief,you well? Got the Stacker Reborn done yet?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Did you inspect the mating faces? Got some close up pics?


Yeah sec, was taking all the pics from my camera in the garage lol. I did notice from what you'll see on the paper towels that the red paint was coming off though this is above the O-ring and wouldn't be able to get to the water since it sits outside, but curious on that.



I put the red one on after to test in case.



The original that was on it



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Interesting to see if they used the black O ring or the red one as these things come with two which i found quite interesting.......the black one for Novice users and the red for Advanced users
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also noticed once the red aluminium pump mounts, once screwed down hand tight were pretty hard to un-screw - no particular reason, i just think the fine threads of the aluminium and acetal lock together somehow and make it a little difficult to unscrew though i didn't have to resort to a monkey wrench.


They used the Black O-Ring


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Advanced O-rings....whatever next....
> 
> How you been Chief,you well? Got the Stacker Reborn done yet?


Tickety Boo Neg thanks and yes the Stacker lives, using a couple of the Monsoon bay-res this guy is having trouble with













Good job ao the CaseLabs fella.......looks sweet as


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah sec, was taking all the pics from my camera in the garage lol. I did notice from what you'll see on the paper towels that the red paint was coming off though this is above the O-ring and wouldn't be able to get to the water since it sits outside, but curious on that.
> 
> I put the red one on after to test in case.


That red O ring there in your picture shouldn't be where it is - it should sit in the Acetal bit of the res and the pump should rest on top of it then the red aluminium bit you were having problems removing should squish it all together. like a sandwich


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> That red O ring there in your picture shouldn't be where it is - it should sit in the Acetal bit of the res and the pump should rest on top of it then the red aluminium bit you were having problems removing should squish it all together. like a sandwich


Ah that'd how they installed it.

So like this? (Using the black here)


----------



## John Freeman

I can't tell if my loop is flowing .how can I tell?


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah that'd how they installed it.
> 
> So like this? (Using the black here)


Yep spot on


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Yep spot on


That worked tempted to give u + rep for life ! Ty


----------



## stickg1

Hooooray! Luna is up and running!

I switched my top 240mm radiator to exhaust so I can show off my pretty yellow rings again. And somehow with the same (similar enough +/- .5C) ambients my temps are slightly better. Especially on the GPU. Kind of perplexing but this is the way I think it looks best anyway so the fact that it cools more effectively makes it a double win type situation. I still have one more radiator coming, I might stick it on the back as an exhaust. Although I really like the way the tubing run from my GPU to CPU turned out and it would be a shame to have to ditch it again. It looks so smooth, almost like an acrylic run.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> I can't tell if my loop is flowing .how can I tell?


You should see water movement in the reservoir, even very slight movement, but you should be able to tell if water is flowing or not. Is the pump receiving a good supply of liquid from the reservoir?


----------



## John Freeman

I can't tell. I can hear water in the pump now amd the res is releasing small bubbles .


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Hooooray! Luna is up and running!
> 
> I switched my top 240mm radiator to exhaust so I can show off my pretty yellow rings again. And somehow with the same (similar enough +/- .5C) ambients my temps are slightly better. Especially on the GPU. Kind of perplexing but this is the way I think it looks best anyway so the fact that it cools more effectively makes it a double win type situation. I still have one more radiator coming, I might stick it on the back as an exhaust. Although I really like the way the tubing run from my GPU to CPU turned out and it would be a shame to have to ditch it again. It looks so smooth, almost like an acrylic run.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good stick...btw, do you have the filters in your case still? If so, that may have been why you were seeing problems when they were in the other orientation. With those filters in there and the fans trying to pull air from outside thru the filter then trying to push thru the rads would make it harder for your fans than where they can freely draw air from inside your case and push it out thru the rad and filter.

Even still, I think those SP120s always look best doing push exhaust to the point where it out weighs the minor performance increase than having them intake

That blue dye looks great in there too


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The PSU jumping technique has been around forever,why do you not recommend it? It's both safe and easy.


I don't recommend it for the reason stated in the post
Quote:


> *no worry or [of] water droplets falling on live PSU*


Inn the context under discussion which is filling a loop and leak testing it may be easy but not safe if you have a leak ..... can't destroy something when there is no power to it.

Top of case
______________________________________________

Radiator (which may leak)

CPU Block (connections thereto may leak)

GFX Card (connectors thereto which may leak)

*Powered On* PSU Underneath GFX card now getting dripped on (not Safe)
______________________________________________

If PSU is not powered, it can't be destroyed and no danger exists. I have seen peeps here on OCN lose PSUs this way ..... lost a PC here in the office when someone left their coffee on top of PC case and it got knocked over.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Those AC/DC adapters do not have any kind of circuit protection (shorts, over current, over volt, etc) like PSUs do. If you short a PSU out, it will just trip and you do not damage your pump or anything else you power, plus the PSU can usually recover from most of those situations. The AC/DC adapters would likely blow forcing you to get a new one and there is a strong possibility whatever you are powering would burn out too.


I'd checked this out already and was informed otherwise..... can't imagine that every laptop charger on the planet is without such protections .... exploding batteries would be a bad thing.....would certainly not be able to get a UL label w/o such protections.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yup, I have an old PSU I pulled from an old Dell Server at work that I use for running just the pump when filling and bleeding, testing fans,etc. Works perfect for me.


Free is better ! The Singularity folks recommend the same thing. I used up my last spare PSU hence the alternate route .... though I must say....this fits better in my toolbox.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I cut all the wires off except for the 24-pin and a couple molex connectors since I knew I would never use it again for anything else.


I use a foot switch so as to have both hands free.... it's mine 50 weeks a year (the other two weeks used on XMas tree).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> +Rep. Thanks for the suggestion. I promised myself I will be tear downs and maintenance periodically this time. My previous setup wasn't tear down friendly as far as draining and cleaning dust from my rads. When I did my current updates on the case, I took care of those issues... so it should be a lot easier to do maintenance. The only thing about going vertical on my supremacy is I'll have to bend new acrylic for the CPU block. Since I have overkill dual D5 pumps in my system... which I had to turn down... I don't think I have an issue with flow, but I'll consider your suggestion on my next maintenance tear down.


Well thx goes to the forum member who told me tho not that I remember who pointed me to the tests







It also looked betetr and was easier to roiute oin the M6F w/ the MoBo Block



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If the CPU block and GPU block have about the same fluid restriction it should be "ok". But I would personally run GPU's in parallel, and then Go to CPU before/after that, just my opinion.


I agree....think about it.... ya have 75C core temps and 40C GPU temps.....also having one GPU at 39C and one at 38C would bother my OCD







And there are other choices than bridges or crystal links..... piped separately for example







rather than halving the flow to my GPUs, with the 35x2, I think of it as doubling the flow to my CPU









And tho.... order won't change the overall temperature of the loop..... my temp sensors show a variation of up to 4C from 1st rad in to 2nd rad out when pump at low speed.....and keep in mind that with a a 35x2 "low" is a lot more flow than with a single lighter duty pump. So there definitely is change throughout the loop. Here's some test results where under variopus speeds ya see the overall Delta T from 1st rad in to 2nd rad out ranging from 2.3 to 2.8C form idle to full furmark loads

FurmarkTemps.XLS 21k .XLS file


(The purpose of the test BTW, was to determine what effect the case grille / inlet filter was having on rad fans and cooling. You'll notice Delta T across the 280 was bigger than on the 420 because of the restriction. With the filter removed, the delta T across each rad switched and over all Delta T (ambient to water) was down to 8.4 from 12.8 .... still with a 2-3C difference across the loop even at at 2.5 gpm, with the CPU at 75C and GPUs at 40C, there is some benefit to having coldest water hitting CPU .... not a lot tho .... 75C to 35 is not going ton have that significant a difference than 75 to 37....and how often these days are OCs affected by temps as opposed to voltage ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I don't get it. I've filled the reservoir and let the pump run a few times. While the pump still empties the reservoir, when I turn off the power now the water rushes back into the reservoir.
> 
> What should I do? Should I just keep the pump running and fill it up that way at this point?


Assuming you have enough water in there ...... and assuming you filling from top, use a fill tube inside res.... when bottom of tube is below water line this won't happen.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Why not fill it to as close to 100% as you can?


Same reason ya have an expansion tank in ya hot water system at home..... thermal expansion ..... hot stuff takes up more room than cold stuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Hey guys I was looking into some quick disconnects to make my rig easier to swap out components. Learned the hardway this month having to drain out my system 3 times just to swap out parts... This is my current configuration is this with 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing:


Have a bottom rad ? A drain at the lowest point is best



Thats a bitspower disconnect w/ a 30mm extension and 10mm M X M adapter .... other side has Female version QD and a compression fitting w/ 3 feet of tubing



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Definitely white! Black is too common! That's why I went with white on my STH10, my S3 is black though, as is my SM8 Reverse.


Seems half the peeps in the Enthoo Owners Club wanna redo their builds in the new white one







... they also have a white / black one too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> It won't run if the PWM cable is plugged into something that isn't turned on. I know because I always forget to unplug it from my mobo when I do leak tests and it doesn't turn on (I have the same pump).


The 35x2 works tho ..... I used just one of the two pumps til fill the loop from a AC/DC converter.... main PSU wasn't even on.


----------



## LunaP

Awesome so pump works, and doesn't look like it'll take 50 times either as it's a steady flow and then I shut it off, also want to note I can't even here the thing till it runs out of water and that's just air maybe. Can't wait to fill this thing up. No leaks so far, though air proved that last night just honestly since I"m unfamiliar w/ pumps I only thought to check fittings etc, never thought...

Is it odd that I haven't seen water enter the Tube res at all, like it goes in and out the bottom w/o ever giving a hint it touched the glass part.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I don't recommend it for the reason stated in the post
> Inn the context under discussion which is filling a loop and leak testing it may be easy but not safe if you have a leak ..... can't destroy something when there is no power to it.
> 
> Top of case
> ______________________________________________
> 
> Radiator (which may leak)
> 
> CPU Block (connections thereto may leak)
> 
> GFX Card (connectors thereto which may leak)
> 
> *Powered On* PSU Underneath GFX card now getting dripped on (not Safe)
> ______________________________________________
> 
> If PSU is not powered, it can't be destroyed and no danger exists.


That is very true. But if you are using an external PSU to power just the pump then you have nothing to worry about, even if there is a leak. Then you just have to make sure that you let everything completely dry out before powering on the main PSU


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The PSU jumping technique has been around forever,why do you not recommend it? It's both safe and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't recommend it for the reason stated in the post
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *no worry or water droplets falling on live PSU*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Inn the context under discussion which is filling a loop and leak testing it may be easy but not safe if you have a leak ..... can't destroy something when there is no power to it.
> 
> Top of case
> ______________________________________________
> 
> Radiator (which may leak)
> 
> CPU Block (connections thereto may leak)
> 
> GFX Card (connectors thereto which may leak)
> 
> *Powered On* PSU Underneath GFX card now getting dripped on (not Safe)
> ______________________________________________
> 
> If PSU is not powered, it can't be destroyed and no danger exists.
Click to expand...

Ah,I have mine as a donkey outside the case with just the molex running in,I rarely leaktest with the PSU in. Cabling is fine but the actual box is outside.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

With the Monsoon res does anybody actually know the effects of the red/black o-ring? As in tried them both and noticed a difference?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> With the Monsoon res does anybody actually know the effects of the red/black o-ring? As in tried them both and noticed a difference?


The difference will show up on a flowmeter but will it have any real effect? No.


----------



## stickg1

Thanks Cyphon!

@Luna, I want to see this thing in action!! Make a small video if you have time, I'd like to see how the tube res behaves as a secondary reservoir.

@PSU Jumping discussion - I also just use a spare PSU that is outside the case, nothing inside my case is live except for the pump when I am filling the loop.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> That worked tempted to give u + rep for life ! Ty


Glad you got it worked out. It's strange that you needed a wrench to take it off. When I got mine, it was a little tight, but it came off pretty easily. They also used the black o-ring when they installed it, not the red. The red one is smaller than the black so sealing it is suppose to be harder, and FCPU shouldn't have put it in there considering those bold letters in the manual. I would complain to FCPU about it. Whoever installed it didn't really read through the instructions on how to do it. I hope there was no damage to the paint on the housing when you had to use the wrench on it.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Awesome so pump works, and doesn't look like it'll take 50 times either as it's a steady flow and then I shut it off, also want to note I can't even here the thing till it runs out of water and that's just air maybe. Can't wait to fill this thing up. No leaks so far, though air proved that last night just honestly since I"m unfamiliar w/ pumps I only thought to check fittings etc, never thought...
> 
> Is it odd that I haven't seen water enter the Tube res at all, like it goes in and out the bottom w/o ever giving a hint it touched the glass part.


That good to hear you got the pump going. I got the same res/pump, at least I plan to rig it up for a leak testing before installing into my case. Like I been doing with all my radiators and blocks. Not risking a leak through a crack.


----------



## pc-illiterate

luna, why dont you fill the tube res then start the res filling and bleeding? it should go much quicker.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Thanks Cyphon!
> 
> @Luna, I want to see this thing in action!! Make a small video if you have time, I'd like to see how the tube res behaves as a secondary reservoir.


Will do once I get this RAD sorted. As far as the res goes it just goes in and out w/ no issue I honestly can't hear the water moving around except through the hole in my RAD.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Glad you got it worked out. It's strange that you needed a wrench to take it off. When I got mine, it was a little tight, but it came off pretty easily. They also used the black o-ring when they installed it, not the red. T*he red one is smaller than the black so sealing it is suppose to be harder, and FCPU shouldn't have put it in there considering those bold letters in the manua*l. I would complain to FCPU about it. Whoever installed it didn't really read through the instructions on how to do it. *I hope there was no damage to the paint on the housing when you had to use the wrench on it.*


I said they used the black one when they installed it.

Also there was small clamp marks that's all.

My acrylic run is flawless as far as leaking goes, though looks like one of my UT60's has a small hole (no idea where )that's running through the fans down a screw and out the bottom of the case.good thing I had paper towels there, just odd this didn't show up when I was flushing them in the sink a few weeks ago. It's quite alot too but stops shortly after the pump goes off, I'm going to have to remove it as it looks like its leaking from UNDER the top fans and out the side from the bottom fans then through the holes in the bottom of the case, Thank god for the spacing since there's nothing else for them to touch.


----------



## Anoxy

Does anyone know what that long funnel-shaped fitting from Bitspower is that people sometimes put in the top of their Bitspower tube reservoirs?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does anyone know what that long funnel-shaped fitting from Bitspower is that people sometimes put in the top of their Bitspower tube reservoirs?


Save your money and get....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/380598243122?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95



Far better...You can get liter versions,I use the 500mls myself.


----------



## stickg1

I think he means the aqua tube that goes inside the reservoir to prevent splashing when people make the return line (input) on one of the top ports.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_657&products_id=30836

I can't find the piece by itself, it always just comes with the bitspower z-tanks.


----------



## Ithanul

Well, got myself to put my flush system together.





Now to finish building my paint booth for all the painting. This computer build turning out to be taking longer than I thought.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think he means the aqua tube that goes inside the reservoir to prevent splashing when people make the return line (input) on one of the top ports.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_657&products_id=30836
> 
> I can't find the piece by itself, it always just comes with the bitspower z-tanks.


Yep, that's what I was looking for. Didn't know the name, thank you, Bitspower aqua pipe. Found it at sidewindercomputers


----------



## LunaP

So in the red highlighted part you can see the water chilling there ( no pun intended ) and it's not moving (system's off )

the blue zigzag's / arrows are showing what part under the case it starts dripping out at.

The tan/yellow highlight is the area in which is slightly starts filling up at. It's not coming out of the acrylic and I can't see anything from the top fans so its something inside/around the bottom fans that's leaking outwards into the case and also down out through the screw holes yet only for the first 1-2 minutes when the pump is on and about 30 seconds or so after it's off as you can hear the airbubbles pushing back and forth.

There were no leaks on the initial flush, any suggestions on if this is something fixable or do I have a defective RAD.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Well, got myself to put my flush system together.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to finish building my paint booth for all the painting. This computer build turning out to be taking longer than I thought.


Which filter is that?? I am going to Home Depot in a bit and may pick up a cheap pond pump and filter since I been meaning to build one of these for awhile


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Which filter is that?? I am going to Home Depot in a bit and may pick up a cheap pond pump and filter since I been meaning to build one of these for awhile


Coralife 05700 PureFlo 1 Micron Sediment Filter Cartridge, I bought most of the stuff from Amazon. Only the bucket and barbs for the filter housing did I get from Home Depot.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Coralife 05700 PureFlo 1 Micron Sediment Filter Cartridge, I bought most of the stuff from Amazon. Only the bucket and barbs for the filter housing did I get from Home Depot.


Thanks


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Will do once I get this RAD sorted. As far as the res goes it just goes in and out w/ no issue I honestly can't hear the water moving around except through the hole in my RAD.
> I said they used the black one when they installed it.
> 
> Also there was small clamp marks that's all.
> 
> My acrylic run is flawless as far as leaking goes, though looks like one of my UT60's has a small hole (no idea where )that's running through the fans down a screw and out the bottom of the case.good thing I had paper towels there, just odd this didn't show up when I was flushing them in the sink a few weeks ago. It's quite alot too but stops shortly after the pump goes off, I'm going to have to remove it as it looks like its leaking from UNDER the top fans and out the side from the bottom fans then through the holes in the bottom of the case, Thank god for the spacing since there's nothing else for them to touch.


Sound like you might have punctured the rad with a screw, which should have been really hard to do, don't the Alphacool rads have a plate to stop the screws??

Edit: it could also be a loose stop plug on the underside of that rad, they so have ports down there also.


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> That worked tempted to give u + rep for life ! Ty


WOW i just went through your previous posts Luna as i wasn't really familiar with what had happened previously but saw in post 58238 that Frozen CPU fitted the pump /res combo and when you tried to fire your system up for the first time, the pump wasn't working and water was coming out the back of the pump housing.

No wonder the pump wasn't working as with the way Frozen CPU had fitted the O ring the actual pump impeller would have been jammed up against the res so unable to spin at all and obviously if there was no O ring to contain the water, no wonder the thing leaked.

That is unbelievable that a watercooling store could make such a fundamental error and ship it out with the O ring put on the outer edge of the pump like an elastic band............i seriously hope you've let them know their mistake because it doesn't bear thinking how many more they have shipped out like that.

Could have easily burnt the pump out or cracked the ceramic bearing by tightening the impeller down too hard.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So in the red highlighted part you can see the water chilling there ( no pun intended ) and it's not moving (system's off )
> 
> the blue zigzag's / arrows are showing what part under the case it starts dripping out at.
> 
> The tan/yellow highlight is the area in which is slightly starts filling up at. It's not coming out of the acrylic and I can't see anything from the top fans so its something inside/around the bottom fans that's leaking outwards into the case and also down out through the screw holes yet only for the first 1-2 minutes when the pump is on and about 30 seconds or so after it's off as you can hear the airbubbles pushing back and forth.
> 
> There were no leaks on the initial flush, any suggestions on if this is something fixable or do I have a defective RAD.


how the hell can one person get so many problems with their loop? you sir, have the worst luck imaginable lol.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So in the red highlighted part you can see the water chilling there ( no pun intended ) and it's not moving (system's off )
> 
> the blue zigzag's / arrows are showing what part under the case it starts dripping out at.
> 
> The tan/yellow highlight is the area in which is slightly starts filling up at. It's not coming out of the acrylic and I can't see anything from the top fans so its something inside/around the bottom fans that's leaking outwards into the case and also down out through the screw holes yet only for the first 1-2 minutes when the pump is on and about 30 seconds or so after it's off as you can hear the airbubbles pushing back and forth.
> 
> There were no leaks on the initial flush, any suggestions on if this is something fixable or do I have a defective RAD.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Check all those stop fittings first to make sure they are tight. Isn't there two more under that radiator? Maybe it's one of those two.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Sound like you might have punctured the rad with a screw, which should have been really hard to do, don't the Alphacool rads have a plate to stop the screws??
> 
> Edit: it could also be a loose stop plug on the underside of that rad, they so have ports down there also.


There are plates as where the screw hits its then another few mm of separation in which the screws would be unable to reach. I checked the fittings too, they're dry, its coming from under neath through the fans mostly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> WOW i just went through your previous posts Luna as i wasn't really familiar with what had happened previously but saw in post 58238 that Frozen CPU fitted the pump /res combo and when you tried to fire your system up for the first time, the pump wasn't working and water was coming out the back of the pump housing.
> 
> No wonder the pump wasn't working as with the way Frozen CPU had fitted the O ring the actual pump impeller would have been jammed up against the res so unable to spin at all and obviously if there was no O ring to contain the water, no wonder the thing leaked.
> 
> That is unbelievable that a watercooling store could make such a fundamental error and ship it out with the O ring put on the outer edge of the pump like an elastic band............i seriously hope you've let them know their mistake because it doesn't bear thinking how many more they have shipped out like that.
> 
> Could have easily burnt the pump out or cracked the ceramic bearing by tightening the impeller down too hard.


I'll be sure to let them know thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> how the hell can one person get so many problems with their loop? you sir, have the worst luck imaginable lol.


Pretty much, my life's been full of horrible luck but yeah mine just sucks more than others...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Check all those stop fittings first to make sure they are tight. Isn't there two more under that radiator? Maybe it's one of those two.


I was hoping the same but if I put my fingers up under the lower fans from the floor up and move it a bit more water comes down through them.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Will do once I get this RAD sorted. As far as the res goes it just goes in and out w/ no issue I honestly can't hear the water moving around except through the hole in my RAD.
> I said they used the black one when they installed it.
> 
> Also there was small clamp marks that's all.
> 
> My acrylic run is flawless as far as leaking goes, though looks like one of my UT60's has a small hole (no idea where )that's running through the fans down a screw and out the bottom of the case.good thing I had paper towels there, just odd this didn't show up when I was flushing them in the sink a few weeks ago. It's quite alot too but stops shortly after the pump goes off, I'm going to have to remove it as it looks like its leaking from UNDER the top fans and out the side from the bottom fans then through the holes in the bottom of the case, Thank god for the spacing since there's nothing else for them to touch.


Doh, I guess I missed that part. But yea, definitely let them know it was installed wrong.

Have you tried taking off the top fans to see if you can look through the fins to check for water?


----------



## LunaP

Slightly better view, and fittings are dry or so they feel and can't seem to tighten further, but here's where it starts to come out from


----------



## Pimphare

Anyone here use/have used rheostats in their systems? I'm looking to incorporate 2 into mine. One for external D5 pump control and another for 6 to 8 fans connected to a fan hub pcb. The fans I'm using are Noiseblocker B12-3's. My pump isn't PWM nor has the speed control on the back. I'm not quite sure on how to select the proper ones I need.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Doh, I guess I missed that part. But yea, definitely let them know it was installed wrong.
> 
> Have you tried taking off the top fans to see if you can look through the fins to check for water?


Last screw was annoying to take out but forgot to take pics. Can't be a screw though there's space in between.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That is very true. But if you are using an external PSU to power just the pump then you have nothing to worry about, even if there is a leak. Then you just have to make sure that you let everything completely dry out before powering on the main PSU


Exactly..... but my spare PSU went for a repair to a friends PSU .... this was cheaper than a replacement and fits in my toolbox a lot better......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think he means the aqua tube that goes inside the reservoir to prevent splashing when people make the return line (input) on one of the top ports.
> 
> I can't find the piece by itself, it always just comes with the bitspower z-tanks.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11866/ex-tub-716/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_II_BP-MBWP-C18.html?tl=c97s169b145

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11864/ex-tub-714/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_I_BP-MBWP-C17.html?tl=c97s169b145

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> There are plates as where the screw hits its then another few mm of separation in which the screws would be unable to reach. I checked the fittings too, they're dry, its coming from under neath through the fans
> 
> I was hoping the same but if I put my fingers up under the lower fans from the floor up and move it a bit more water comes down through them.


I have seen / well read of peeps doing this....for example.... if ya have say the 30mm screws and they work .... but instead ya used the 35 mm screws, you have gone past the screw protector plate.

Did you flush and leak test the rads before installation ? Carefully tightened all 5 unused ports with the brass plugs ? including the one at the opposite end ?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Exactly..... but my spare PSU went for a repair to a friends PSU .... this was cheaper than a replacement and fits in my toolbox a lot better......
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11866/ex-tub-716/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_II_BP-MBWP-C18.html?tl=c97s169b145
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11864/ex-tub-714/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_I_BP-MBWP-C17.html?tl=c97s169b145
> I have seen / well read of peeps doing this....for example.... if ya have say the 30mm screws and they work .... but instead ya used the 35 mm screws, you have gone past the screw protector plate.
> 
> Did you flush and leak test the rads before installation ? Carefully tightened all 5 unused ports with the brass plugs ? including the one at the opposite end ?


yup, used the 30mm on the top fans and the 35 on the bottom , ensured this for all of them. Flushed them out prior and also verified fittings again just now.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Did you flush and leak test the rads before installation ? Carefully tightened all 5 unused ports with the brass plugs ? *including the one at the opposite end* ?


That's the only other thing I could think of. If the case is angled a bit and the water is originating from somewhere else.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> That's the only other thing I could think of. If the case is angled a bit and the water is originating from somewhere else.


would definitely hit the backwalls or the floor prior to making it to the other end since its a 480. Verified though and it's completely dry. Case is level w/ the floor too.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Opened her up, and it appears to rub off with some force
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips for polishing up nickel?
> 
> Thanks.


Did you use a pastel?

Autosol is definitely my polish of choice.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Did you use a pastel?
> 
> Autosol is definitely my polish of choice.


I did not, this block is second hand - I have never used it. Previous owner claims he just ran distilled.

I managed to get it somewhat shiny again, some spots are still pretty rough. I put it back together and testing the air tightness now. That goldfish gasket is a pita.

I will check out autosol for the next time I open it up. Thank you


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I did not, this block is second hand - I have never used it. Previous owner claims he just ran distilled.
> 
> I managed to get it somewhat shiny again, some spots are still pretty rough. I put it back together and testing the air tightness now. *That goldfish gasket is a pita.*
> 
> I will check out autosol for the next time I open it up. Thank you


I have heard, but never tried myself, that a bit of silicone grease really helps hold the gasket in place while reattaching the top


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I did not, this block is second hand - I have never used it. Previous owner claims he just ran distilled.
> 
> I managed to get it somewhat shiny again, some spots are still pretty rough. I put it back together and testing the air tightness now. That goldfish gasket is a pita.
> 
> I will check out autosol for the next time I open it up. Thank you


I used small dabs of super glue to hold the oring in place. I've taken mine apart 4-5 times now and the oring doesn't ever fall out now.


----------



## LunaP

ok the leak is close to where the fan hole is but its coming from the inside near the corner, and then falls through the fan hole or out the other end if you tilt it...

currently looking for more papertowels to soak up the water off the carpet and closing up my loop for now, Gonna put in an order for an overnight 480 on Monday as well as red lights for my GPU's since PPC screwed up that order and gave me blue's when the order shows red... and have this shipped back. Still gonna investigate it tonight though, I take it I shouldn't use anything to patch a hole if I find one correct?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ok the leak is close to where the fan hole is but its coming from the inside near the corner, and then falls through the fan hole or out the other end if you tilt it...
> 
> currently looking for more papertowels to soak up the water off the carpet and closing up my loop for now, Gonna put in an order for an overnight 480 on Monday as well as red lights for my GPU's since PPC screwed up that order and gave me blue's when the order shows red... and have this shipped back. Still gonna investigate it tonight though, I take it I shouldn't use anything to patch a hole if I find one correct?


Dude I cannot believe all the craps you've had to go through with your build. Never quite seen anything like it.

I'd take the rad out and try testing for a leak separately. See if you can find it.

I'd raise some hell with both PPC and FCPU. Demand some compensation for all the trouble.

Feel bad for ya


----------



## NYMD

It's up and it is cold! Furmark max at 36c and Prime95 at 55c with 21c ambient air.

Thanks for the help everyone...


----------



## BradleyW

Looks excellent. Good job and nice temps. My cards hit 48c in furmark and 65c on the CPU with prime95 on low fan speeds.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Looks excellent. Good job and nice temps. My cards hit 48c in furmark and 65c on the CPU with prime95 on low fan speeds.


Thanks! This is stock clocks on everything and fans at 100% on the 3x480s... the AMS fans are off for now.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Thanks! This is stock clocks on everything and fans at 100% on the 3x480s... the AMS fans are off for now.


With all that surface cooling space, you should be able to put those fans much lower. Give it a try


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> With all that surface cooling space, you should be able to put those fans much lower. Give it a try


Most definitely... the Aquaero is sitting and waiting to be programmed, I just have to figure out why it isn't sensing it is connected to anything yet apart from the fans. Lots to do there, but I have manually set the AP-14s to 66% as a test and it is pretty much silent.

Back when I had the 780x3 on air it sounded like a jet taking off.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Dude I cannot believe all the craps you've had to go through with your build. Never quite seen anything like it.
> 
> I'd take the rad out and try testing for a leak separately. See if you can find it.
> 
> I'd raise some hell with both PPC and FCPU. Demand some compensation for all the trouble.
> 
> Feel bad for ya


ha.... I feel like it's NEVER gonna be ready to go (can't say finished since there's no such word on OCN)

At least I know my loop is solid since all the water is sitting in there and no leaks anywhere, each RAD has it's own amount in it lol crated a lil stopped on my GPU so I'm good as far as water goes. Still interesting that the res has NO signs of water anywhere on the glass in fact it just goes in the bottom and out the bottom w/ no issue.

I LOVE the pump though, everything people have been saying about PWM pumps being loud... I hear nothing.. and that's w/ it plugged directly into the PSU no controller yet. The AP-15's sound beautiful and VERY silent and that's w/ the case doors off, I can only imagine once they're on.

Do you guys thing adding sound dampening foam on the sides would help at all or no, that way I can go for that ultimate silence~ that that type you hear when you turn on an AC machine w/ just a heatsync w/ its fan lol.

Anywhoo I'm just psyched all else is good and at least knowing its just the RAD now. Once that's back in I'll be good. This'll give me a chance to unhook the GPU's and rewire them for RED vs blue.

FCPU has been a great help and supportive at least, as for the earlier comment PPC's only screwed up the lighting order, the RAD's came from FCPU.

Either way after 1 full roll of paper towels , I just want the crap to be over with lol. I'm just proud that my attention to detail on the acrylic paid off.

For those that were asking the Metroid does light up , as well as Samus's beam does too. Need to hook up the lights to the Tube res.

It just looks off atm since the XSPC CPU block is red but the GPU's are blue Lol... might just end up going blue/red/blue/red GPU/GPU/GPU/CPU though we'll see how that goes.

Appreciate all the support everyone's given on this.


----------



## Anoxy

My PWM pump is plugged into the motherboard and makes a whining noise when it starts to ramp up. Pretty obnoxious, but it doesn't ramp up that much most of the time.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> My PWM pump is plugged into the motherboard and makes a whining noise when it starts to ramp up. Pretty obnoxious, but it doesn't ramp up that much most of the time.


Odd which model do u have ?

Also curious if this is the culprit? Would explain why I could never get the screw in lol.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Odd which model do u have ?
> 
> Also curious if this is the culprit? Would explain why I could never get the screw in lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It could be, that's directly over one of the water channels, looks like a screw might have been too long........ Hard to tell in the photo.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> My PWM pump is plugged into the motherboard and makes a whining noise when it starts to ramp up. Pretty obnoxious, but it doesn't ramp up that much most of the time.


Personally, I don't know why you have it ramp up at all since it's been shown that once you get to a certain flow rate, increasing makes little difference in temps. When I had my D5 Vario, changing from speed 3 to speed 5 made no difference in temps at all.
I know this is fairly outdated, but I'd imagine it still holds true for the most part

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Odd which model do u have ?
> 
> Also curious if this is the culprit? Would explain why I could never get the screw in lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd be willing to be that's the problem. You should probably get more 30mm screws to use on both sides when you get the replacement.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Personally, I don't know why you have it ramp up at all since it's been shown that once you get to a certain flow rate, increasing makes little difference in temps. When I had my D5 Vario, changing from speed 3 to speed 5 made no difference in temps at all.
> I know this is fairly outdated, but I'd imagine it still holds true for the most part
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


On my vario, I actually found that the #1 setting gave me the lowest temps, only thing I can think that caused it was that the fluid was able to be in the rads longer, getting cooled more........


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It could be, that's directly over one of the water channels, looks like a screw might have been too long........ Hard to tell in the photo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'd be willing to be that's the problem. You should probably get more 30mm screws to use on both sides when you get the replacement.


Definitely wasn't the screw as I tested it w/ a fan on it and it barely gets past the plate with plenty of room before where it normally hits on the others. I use the 35mm screws only for the side where the fans are screwed in through the floor/ceiling into the RAD vs the 30mm which I use to screw em into the RAD directly.

After doing some tests w/ water it appear's there's a crack somewhere in side as it comes out then travels around the bottom part until either there's too much and it comes out of any of the screw areas or you tilt it and it comes out of either end, the odd part is still that it doesn't continously drip or leak as I filled the rad up completely and it comes out a bit then stops till you swish it around again...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Definitely wasn't the screw as I tested it w/ a fan on it and it barely gets past the plate with plenty of room before where it normally hits on the others. I use the 35mm screws only for the side where the fans are screwed in through the floor/ceiling into the RAD vs the 30mm which I use to screw em into the RAD directly.
> 
> After doing some tests w/ water it appear's there's a crack somewhere in side as it comes out then travels around the bottom part until either there's too much and it comes out of any of the screw areas or you tilt it and it comes out of either end, the odd part is still that it doesn't continously drip or leak as I filled the rad up completely and it comes out a bit then stops till you swish it around again...


send that sucker back for a refund...and buy the UT60 off the OCN marketplace


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> send that sucker back for a refund...and buy the UT60 off the OCN marketplace


If anyone was selling them in AZ ( PHX preferably ) I'd be poised to buy it off them instantly.









This weekend was SUPPOSED to be the weekend I finally got everything up ( for the 3rd time )


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Nice, ask him about those XSPC temp displays while you got him, lol. I need to know if the temp sensors are interchangeable!


Yes they are interchangeable, they use standard two pin wires for the display.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Honestly bud I think you need to just mount a D5 under that Photon res and call it a day.


That's what I'm thinking.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's what I'm thinking.


If @ me

pump works fine no issues + Can't hear the thing @ all which is a super + looking forward to this build.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Definitely wasn't the screw as I tested it w/ a fan on it and it barely gets past the plate with plenty of room before where it normally hits on the others. I use the 35mm screws only for the side where the fans are screwed in through the floor/ceiling into the RAD vs the 30mm which I use to screw em into the RAD directly.
> 
> After doing some tests w/ water it appear's there's a crack somewhere in side as it comes out then travels around the bottom part until either there's too much and it comes out of any of the screw areas or you tilt it and it comes out of either end, the odd part is still that it doesn't continously drip or leak as I filled the rad up completely and it comes out a bit then stops till you swish it around again...


I don't know what else could have caused damage to the guard like that if it wasn't a screw. Especially since you air leak tested and flushed prior to installing it in the case


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I don't know what else could have caused damage to the guard like that if it wasn't a screw. Especially since you air leak tested and flushed prior to installing it in the case


Yeah screw can't even reach that far and there's no markings either, the screws barely touch the guards on the others as well. I used a flat head to bend it up a bit and there's further damage inside as well as something somewhere inside that's allowing water through. Either way this sucks majorly, and nothing I can do now till Tuesday when the new one arrives...


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Personally, I don't know why you have it ramp up at all since it's been shown that once you get to a certain flow rate, increasing makes little difference in temps. When I had my D5 Vario, changing from speed 3 to speed 5 made no difference in temps at all.
> I know this is fairly outdated, but I'd imagine it still holds true for the most part
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's the PWM version, it changes speeds automatically. Do I need to set it different in the BIOS or?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> It's the PWM version, it changes speeds automatically. Do I need to set it different in the BIOS or?


You should be able to set the curve that it uses based on temperature with your mono software or dune third party software

If you are a Linux user, then lm_sensors is what you need


----------



## Ragsters

Today I received 7 Gentle Typhoons from Jabtech and after testing each fan I found one to be faulty. What I mean is that one of the fans wobbles and just seems unbalanced. I also noticed that this fan makes more noise than the rest do. Do you think I could get a refund for just one fan?


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I haven't touched the plug on top due to the warning label that came w/ it. There's no way for the air to escape so yeah I guess that makes sense. It runs smoothly though so curious if I attempt to manually fill the Res would that affect anything or would I be required to fill it 100%? Or leave it as is or maybe do half?


Dude, being far too literal about that bit of photocopy you found in the box. They warn about removing the END CAPS, not the bloody fill port that's designed to be opened.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I got a GT AP15 a few *weeds* ago that wobbled. Out of 17 GT fans I've purchased, 1 was defective. I thought I would give it try anyway as an exhaust fan... but the vibration noise on the case was annoying. I would return it if I were you... and get a refund or a replacement. Returning it was an easy process for me since I bought it through amazon prime. Free 2 day shipping and free return shipping.


I think it's because of the weed that's why the fans seem to wobble.
Haha sorry I just had to.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Dude, being far too literal about that bit of photocopy you found in the box. They warn about removing the END CAPS, not the bloody fill port that's designed to be opened.


I think youre thinking of a diff res. They warn about the fill port lol its the only port on top. I'm looking at the sheet now.

Any who a few already cleared it up I just need to order that squirt bottle to help with filling and should be good.


----------



## ledzepp3

Just like to hear another opinion on this. Yesterday I was working (with my case on the side), installing fan filters on my Black Ice SR1 560mm rad. The screwdriver rolled off when the case got bumped by me, should I yank the rad out and check for any punctured channels? It wouldn't be a problem since the loop isn't done yet. I did inspect the whole side of the radiator where the screwdriver fell, and there didn't appear to be any sort of dent, cracking, or abnormality at all.

My last build had a leaky radiator and two leaking reservoirs, so better safe than sorry this time, right?









-Zepp


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/nmowysj

Switched over to my fifth Silverstone case in a row, TJ08-E, will post a pic of insides later.

Also ditched internal drives for the 4TB external that you can see to keep the mess down to a minimum.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> I think it's because of the weed that's why the fans seem to wobble.
> Haha sorry I just had to.


LOL... Damn... My eyes are bad. I'm on my mobile phone tonight... in a hotel on vacation... and I can barely read anything without my contacts on this thing. I need another weed vacation.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Did someone say weed....


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Did someone say weed....


They sure did









Sent from my LG Optimus Prime


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I think youre thinking of a diff res. They warn about the fill port lol its the only port on top. I'm looking at the sheet now.
> 
> Any who a few already cleared it up I just need to order that squirt bottle to help with filling and should be good.


Mi amigo, I have the same res, albiet the 170mm version. The black nickel plated bit on top, the thing with the slot in it, that's for agua. It's pretty simple to operate, place a flat object in that slot (a coin perhaps), rotate counter-clockwise (a clock's hands go 'round in a circle right to left, so counter-clockwise is left to right), and before you know it, it lifts right off, with no damage to the actual reservoir.

Once it's off, you'll see this dark hole. Don't be afraid, it's only _dark_, not full of monsters or warranty demons. You can use that dark hole to your benefit, as it makes an ideal (dare I say, _intended_) place to introduce liquid to the system. Then retrieve that fill cap you so bravely removed earlier, place it back over the non-warranty-demon-hole, and turn it clockwise this time, until it is once again water-tight. The usual caveats about O-rings and over-tightening would apply.

Just to, you know, clarify a bit more for those following along from home (emphasis mine):
Quote:


> Warning: XSPC Photon reservoirs are carefully sealed and leak tested before shipping. Unscrewing the *top* or *base* of the *reservoir* is not advised and may cause leaking if improperly resealed. Only use with water temperatures between 5 and 50C.


I mean, c'mon man. Did you hesitate to remove the included plug cap from the G1/4 fittings on the bottom? It's not there for decoration.

Luna, I love you like an OCN brother, but you're _seriously_ over-thinking some things, and dangerously under-thinking others in this build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ha.... I feel like it's NEVER gonna be ready to go (can't say finished since there's no such word on OCN)
> 
> At least I know my loop is solid since all the water is sitting in there and no leaks anywhere, each RAD has it's own amount in it lol crated a lil stopped on my GPU so I'm good as far as water goes. Still interesting that the res has NO signs of water anywhere on the glass in fact it just goes in the bottom and out the bottom w/ no issue.
> 
> --snip--
> 
> Appreciate all the support everyone's given on this.
> 
> 
> 
> When you are trying to fill the tube res, are you loosening the plug at the top or is there a way to let air escape from above the waterline? Reason being, if there is nowhere for the air to go, the pressure will keep water from filling up the tube res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps, and good luck,
> -Strat
Click to expand...

This.

You need to loosen the top cap and release the air,wait till the loop is full everywhere else then fill the Photon to your desired fill evel,replace the cap and your set.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> When you are trying to fill the tube res, are you loosening the plug at the top or is there a way to let air escape from above the waterline? Reason being, if there is nowhere for the air to go, the pressure will keep water from filling up the tube res.
> 
> Hope this helps, and good luck,
> -Strat
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't touched the plug on top due to the warning label that came w/ it. There's no way for the air to escape so yeah I guess that makes sense. It runs smoothly though so curious if I attempt to *manually fill the Res* would that affect anything or would I be required to fill it 100%? Or leave it as is or maybe do half?
Click to expand...

This.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yep, I've got that setting in my bios. Is there a speed most of you guys run your pump at?
> 
> I'd much rather set it this way than use software.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like 20%-50% is pretty much the sweet spot. I'd try out different percentages and decide which you like best in terms of noise
> SOURCE
Click to expand...

Dont set your pump profile as a curve,use a stepped profile,this tops the pump 'hunting' for RPM with small temp changes.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont set your pump profile as a curve,use a stepped profile,this tops the pump 'hunting' for RPM with small temp changes.


Good point. What I found was that pump speed of 30% PWM was enough to cool CPU when not gaming/folding. As soon as the GPU is active, then I want a bit more flow. So I connected the PWM wire from the pump to the GPU and set it to go up to 40% when the GPU gets hot. Seems more sensible than controlling the pump based on CPU temp, which varies quite a lot; GPU temp is less jumpy.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont set your pump profile as a curve,use a stepped profile,this tops the pump 'hunting' for RPM with small temp changes.


Right, that's why I said you could do a curve, *step ups*, or just a straight line if you didn't want it to change at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Good point. What I found was that pump speed of 30% PWM was enough to cool CPU when not gaming/folding. As soon as the GPU is active, then I want a bit more flow. So I connected the PWM wire from the pump to the GPU and set it to go up to 40% when the GPU gets hot. Seems more sensible than controlling the pump based on CPU temp, which varies quite a lot; GPU temp is less jumpy.


In your experience, does changing the pump speed and any effect on temperatures? Because everything I read, and have somewhat tested myself with a d5 vario, once you get over ~1.5gpm, raising pump speed has minimal effects on temperatures


----------



## Diablo85

I'm in! I finished this up last weekend. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic. 2 480mm UT60's, Corsair SP120 PWM high perf. edition fans, EK CPU block, EK 250mm res, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD tubing, and Mayhem's Pastel red.


----------



## cyphon

Anyone know the voltage output corresponding to each d5 vario setting? Is it pretty linear, or is it more logarithmic or exponential? I didn't find anything specific on it and don't have one handy to test with
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont set your pump profile as a curve,use a stepped profile,this tops the pump 'hunting' for RPM with small temp changes.
> 
> 
> 
> Good point. What I found was that pump speed of 30% PWM was enough to cool CPU when not gaming/folding. As soon as the GPU is active, then I want a bit more flow. So I connected the PWM wire from the pump to the GPU and set it to go up to 40% when the GPU gets hot. Seems more sensible than controlling the pump based on CPU temp, which varies quite a lot; GPU temp is less jumpy.
Click to expand...

I notice your software has a hysteresis setting that you are not using. This would allow you to keep it from jumping on smaller movements and thresholds. It basically takes recent history of data points into effect such that the control system reacts slightly slower.

With your control curve, if you have your temp hovering between what looks like 60 and 61, your pump will be jumping back and forth between 40 and 80 duty cycle. With some hysteresis, say 2 degrees or so, then your temp would have to move 2 degrees from previous before the pump speeds actually change.

In short, when tuned correctly, it will keep your output from jumping across thresholds on small temp changes


----------



## hanumant

My personal 4 socket water-cooled server.
4x AMD Opteron 6380 2.8Ghz, 16Cores (Turbo mode) on Supermocro H8QG6-i
64 cores in total with 180 Ghz
Here is some video http://vimeo.com/83923217
I Use it for my 3d renders

Aldebaran.jpg 381k .jpg file


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont set your pump profile as a curve,use a stepped profile,this tops the pump 'hunting' for RPM with small temp changes.
> 
> 
> 
> *Right, that's why I said you could do a curve, step ups, or just a straight line if you didn't want it to change at all.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Good point. What I found was that pump speed of 30% PWM was enough to cool CPU when not gaming/folding. As soon as the GPU is active, then I want a bit more flow. So I connected the PWM wire from the pump to the GPU and set it to go up to 40% when the GPU gets hot. Seems more sensible than controlling the pump based on CPU temp, which varies quite a lot; GPU temp is less jumpy.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In your experience, does changing the pump speed and any effect on temperatures? Because everything I read, and have somewhat tested myself with a d5 vario, once you get over ~1.5gpm, raising pump speed has minimal effects on temperatures
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yep, I've got that setting in my bios. Is there a speed most of you guys run your pump at?
> 
> I'd much rather set it this way than use software.
> 
> 
> 
> *Looks like 20%-50% is pretty much the sweet spot. I'd try out different percentages and decide which you like best in terms of noise*
> SOURCE
Click to expand...

No mention of profile curves at all,you just posted a pic....of a non stepped curve.

I tend to set a pump at the highest acceptable noise and leave it,I can see no purpose in having a pump running slower than the max acceptable noise...especially if you have fans also on PWM. Multiple variables can lead to a cooling system that variates too much.


----------



## stickg1

I think I might finally be over the Fractal Arc Midi R2. I need more rads, even if it's just two 360mm I think it would be more effective then having 120mm rads all over the place like my current setup. But still with limited space in my office and on my desk, the smaller the better. Any suggestions?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think I might finally be over the Fractal Arc Midi R2. I need more rads, even if it's just two 360mm I think it would be more effective then having 120mm rads all over the place like my current setup. But still with limited space in my office and on my desk, the smaller the better. Any suggestions?


Budget?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Budget?


That's the problem it might have to be in the $100-$250 range. I just don't know that I can afford one of those CaseLabs. I suppose I could stash my acorns for a month or two to get one though.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think I might finally be over the Fractal Arc Midi R2. I need more rads, even if it's just two 360mm I think it would be more effective then having 120mm rads all over the place like my current setup. But still with limited space in my office and on my desk, the smaller the better. Any suggestions?


First some questions:

What are your current temps? And OCs
What temps are you expecting?
What is your current noise level?
What is your desired noise level?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No mention of profile curves at all,you just posted a pic....of a non stepped curve.
> 
> I tend to set a pump at the highest acceptable noise and leave it,I can see no purpose in having a pump running slower than the max acceptable noise...especially if you have fans also on PWM. Multiple variables can lead to a cooling system that variates too much.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Pretty sure Asus's software is called Fan Xpert. When I still had my Sabertooth X58, I used it a little for the stock CPU cooler and some case fans before I had my loop installed and it worked pretty well. Easier to use than speedfan too in my experience. You can set curves, or *step ups*, to change the speed based on temps. But if you want it to remain the same speed at all times, you would just make a straight line. As Jimhans1 said, speedfan would work as well. And so would pc-ill's suggestion


He asked what fixed speed he should set the pump the and I gave him a range of where I though he should set it, using the picture as a reference. I never said set the minimum at X and the Max at Y.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think I might finally be over the Fractal Arc Midi R2. I need more rads, even if it's just two 360mm I think it would be more effective then having 120mm rads all over the place like my current setup. But still with limited space in my office and on my desk, the smaller the better. Any suggestions?


2X 240mm or 1x 240mm and 1x 280mm


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> First some questions:


*What are your current temps? And OCs* - R9 290 - 47C and 3570K @ 4.5GHz - 62C with 20C ambient and SP120's @ 7v
*What temps are you expecting?* CPU could be a little lower I guess, maybe I will just delid it. I didn't want to delid this one though.
*What is your current noise level?* @7v the noise level is perfect, but when the ambients raise or I raise my CPU overclock (it can go much faster than 4.5GHz) the temps get too high and I have to run the fans at 12v which is too loud.
*What is your desired noise level?* Like it is now or even a little quieter couldn't hurt.

I suppose this case is adequate, I don't really want a monster full tower but I wouldn't mind being able to mount 2x 360mm UT60's and still have fan slots available for regular intakes and exhaust for case airflow. As it stands right now, every single fan hole is occupied by a radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> 2X 240mm or 1x 240mm and 1x 280mm


I have 1x 240mm, and 3x 120mm in the works. I want more or thicker rads. But I have a lot of HDDs I need to use and not to mention I had to remove my 5.25" cage to have easier access to my res and tubing layout. I want to be able to put a fan controller and even a permanent optical drive.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think I might finally be over the Fractal Arc Midi R2. I need more rads, even if it's just two 360mm I think it would be more effective then having 120mm rads all over the place like my current setup. But still with limited space in my office and on my desk, the smaller the better. Any suggestions?


Ever consider the Corsair 540 Air? Wider so it might not fit your desk space, but has room for a 240+360+120 with no mods, room for another 240 on the floor if you mod a bit, isn't 40 feet tall, and makes for very clean looking builds.

You loose a lot of 3.5" mounting space compared to the Fractal, but gain two dedicated SSD mounts, and there's a ton of room on the non-window side for pumps, cable management, etc. Plus it can be had for around a hundred bucks or so.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> *What are your current temps? And OCs* - R9 290 - 47C and 3570K @ 4.5GHz - 62C with 20C ambient and SP120's @ 7v
> *What temps are you expecting?* CPU could be a little lower I guess, maybe I will just delid it. I didn't want to delid this one though.
> *What is your current noise level?* @7v the noise level is perfect, but when the ambients raise or I raise my CPU overclock (it can go much faster than 4.5GHz) the temps get too high and I have to run the fans at 12v which is too loud.
> *What is your desired noise level?* Like it is now or even a little quieter couldn't hurt.
> 
> I suppose this case is adequate, I don't really want a monster full tower but I wouldn't mind being able to mount 2x 360mm UT60's and still have fan slots available for regular intakes and exhaust for case airflow. As it stands right now, every single fan hole is occupied by a radiator.
> I have 1x 240mm, and 3x 120mm in the works. I want more or thicker rads. But I have a lot of HDDs I need to use and not to mention I had to remove my 5.25" cage to have easier access to my res and tubing layout. I want to be able to put a fan controller and even a permanent optical drive.


If you removed the 5.25" bay, why not put a 360 up top?
Also, I know I have mentioned it before, but are your fractal dust filters in still? My temps dropped 5-10 degrees after removing and I've heard from many others have similar experiences. Their filters are way over restrictive.

What are your space requirements in your office? I think the Arc Midi R2 is one of the best mid towers for WC, especially at the price point. Can you fit a full tower?

Is the $100-$250 budget for the case only? Or is that including rad upgrades and other materials too?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Budget?
> 
> 
> 
> That's the problem it might have to be in the $100-$250 range. I just don't know that I can afford one of those CaseLabs. I suppose I could stash my acorns for a month or two to get one though.
Click to expand...

Phanateks Enthoo Primo.

Job Done.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If you removed the 5.25" bay, why not put a 360 up top?
> Also, I know I have mentioned it before, but are your fractal dust filters in still? My temps dropped 5-10 degrees after removing and I've heard from many others have similar experiences. Their filters are way over restrictive.
> 
> What are your space requirements in your office? I think the Arc Midi R2 is one of the best mid towers for WC, especially at the price point. Can you fit a full tower?
> 
> Is the $100-$250 budget for the case only? Or is that including rad upgrades and other materials too?


I could fit a full tower. Ideally I'd like the case to be no more than 25" x 25" x 12" or roughly 650mm x 650mm x 300mm. Also I want to put the 5.25" cage back in but it takes up so much space.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Phanateks Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Job Done.


I actually really like that, that's nice. It's hard to tell from the pictures but whats the maximum size radiator I could fit at the top and bottom without removing anything? Also how modular is that sidewall where I assume 3.5"/2.5" devices are mounted?

EDIT: I just watched a few videos on it at Newegg. It's everything I could want from a PC case that doesn't cost $500. It's just about perfect. I'll be ordering one in the next month. One of the main things that draws me towards it, is that everyone and their sister isn't building in one right now. I'm sure that will change by the time I get it ordered as it's so new. But still...

Thanks everyone for their input. I think the case search has been concluded. I can easily fit 2x 360mm UT60s and reuse my Swiftech 240mm without doing anything drastic. Now what to do with all these 120mm rads, lol. To the marketplace! Also I really like the mounting platform for the pump. I will probably ditch my fixed speed DDC because when I run the fans at 7v I can actually hear the pump and it's not very attractive sounding. I can get a regular old D5 vario and it will be completely hidden. The looks of that pump with stock housing was the reason I went with DDC this time around anyway, that and space constraints.

This EK-X3 tube and pump top is awesome for confined spaces, but with more space I would surely ditch it. To the marketplace with that as well!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Ever consider the Corsair 540 Air? Wider so it might not fit your desk space, but has room for a 240+360+120 with no mods, room for another 240 on the floor if you mod a bit, isn't 40 feet tall, and makes for very clean looking builds.
> 
> You loose a lot of 3.5" mounting space compared to the Fractal, but gain two dedicated SSD mounts, and there's a ton of room on the non-window side for pumps, cable management, etc. Plus it can be had for around a hundred bucks or so.


+1 for the Corsair 540. If I didn't already have 2x 480 radiators and a build in the works, that would be my case of choice


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If you removed the 5.25" bay, why not put a 360 up top?
> Also, I know I have mentioned it before, but are your fractal dust filters in still? My temps dropped 5-10 degrees after removing and I've heard from many others have similar experiences. Their filters are way over restrictive.
> 
> What are your space requirements in your office? I think the Arc Midi R2 is one of the best mid towers for WC, especially at the price point. Can you fit a full tower?
> 
> Is the $100-$250 budget for the case only? Or is that including rad upgrades and other materials too?
> 
> 
> 
> I could fit a full tower. Ideally I'd like the case to be no more than 25" x 25" x 12" or roughly 650mm x 650mm x 300mm. Also I want to put the 5.25" cage back in but it takes up so much space.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Phanateks Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Job Done.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I actually really like that, that's nice. It's hard to tell from the pictures but whats the maximum size radiator I could fit at the top and bottom without removing anything? Also how modular is that sidewall where I assume 3.5"/2.5" devices are mounted?
Click to expand...

Front :Up to 240
Top:Up to 480
Bottom:Up to 480

Take the HDD cages out for another 240 in the bottom


----------



## stickg1

Okay, this is the final photo-shoot. I think I'm done with this build until I get a new case.


Spoiler: STICKG1's eMPOWERed


----------



## cyphon

The Enthoo Primo is a great recommendation. Just inside your $250 budget and your just inside your 25x25x12 footprint limit.

I'd definitely load up the 480s at least, not sure how that sits in your overall budget tho. Can you return or sell some of your other stuff?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The Enthoo Primo is a great recommendation. Just inside your $250 budget and your just inside your 25x25x12 footprint limit.
> 
> I'd definitely load up the 480s at least, not sure how that sits in your overall budget tho. Can you return or sell some of your other stuff?


Yeah, I'm a habitual reseller. Just about everything I own is always for sale if the price is right, lol. This is probably my 4th rebuild this year. I think I have a problem!









The budget can always be adjusted. I work a lot and make decent money, it's just explaining to HQ (my wife) why my perfectly operational PC build is no longer adequate for me. I can probably sleep on the couch a night or two







.

I will probably reuse my motherboard, CPU, GPU, and GPU block. Perhaps some of the fans, storage drives, PSU, will stay as well.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah, I'm a habitual reseller. Just about everything I own is always for sale if the price is right, lol. This is probably my 4th rebuild this year. I think I have a problem!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The budget can always be adjusted. I work a lot and make decent money, *it's just explaining to HQ (my wife) why my perfectly operational PC build is no longer adequate for me*. I can probably sleep on the couch a night or two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I will probably reuse my motherboard, CPU, GPU, and GPU block. Perhaps some of the fans, storage drives, PSU, will stay as well.


Just unplug a fan or two and say "Oh no, something is wrong with my computer. Time to rebuild I guess"


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Anyone ever got a block like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look at where the inner screws of the FC Terminal are connected, each of them has a crack... The block leaks badly from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just sent an RMA form to EKWB, hoping it's dealt with fast... Got them yesterday and they were sealed so not sure how it passed their quality control.


I hope you get your RMA quick. Iv'e been waiting about *3 weeks* now for my RMA to show up. Applied for the RMA 5 weeks ago. I see more cracked acrylic tops than anything else it seems, the the acetal seems to strip. So it's a trade off I guess.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I hope you get your RMA quick. Iv'e been waiting about *3 weeks* now for my RMA to show up. Applied for the RMA 5 weeks ago. I see more cracked acrylic tops than anything else it seems, the the acetal seems to strip. So it's a trade off I guess.


Yeah I had my first 290X block's acetal threads from the in/out ports strip off from factory on one of the holes, so I had to RMA it and they sent me a new fc link/terminal quite fast and I kept the damaged one (which is useless tho







).

I just hope this RMA goes fast, the block is brand new and I had been waiting for 2 weeks for my order to be here, so not happy at all.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah I had my first 290X block's acetal threads from the in/out ports strip off from factory on one of the holes, so I had to RMA it and they sent me a new fc link/terminal quite fast and I kept the damaged one (which is useless tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I just hope this RMA goes fast, the block is brand new and I had been waiting for 2 weeks for my order to be here, so not happy at all.










that's terrible... I'm getting ready to believe that my package is lost in the mail. They sent it "posta Slovenije" which has no tracking information. It was shipped out on December 27th...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah, I'm a habitual reseller. Just about everything I own is always for sale if the price is right, lol. This is probably my 4th rebuild this year. I think I have a problem!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The budget can always be adjusted. I work a lot and make decent money, it's just explaining to HQ (my wife) why my perfectly operational PC build is no longer adequate for me. I can probably sleep on the couch a night or two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I will probably reuse my motherboard, CPU, GPU, and GPU block. Perhaps some of the fans, storage drives, PSU, will stay as well.


Buy now explain later








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Just unplug a fan or two and say "Oh no, something is wrong with my computer. Time to rebuild I guess"


Or this lol


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's terrible... I'm getting ready to believe that my package is lost in the mail. They sent it "posta Slovenije" which has no tracking information. It was shipped out on December 27th...


How long did it take from the time you submitted an RMA to the time they shipped your replacement? Not sure if they'll make me ship this block back, it's completely useless to be honest, and I'd hate to pay shipping back to Slovenia...

By the way, that "Posta Slovenije" was what they used for my part that I RMA'd and only took a few days to arrive to Spain, maybe yours is stuck at Customs or something?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How long did it take from the time you submitted an RMA to the time they shipped your replacement? Not sure if they'll make me ship this block back, it's completely useless to be honest, and I'd hate to pay shipping back to Slovenia...
> 
> By the way, that "Posta Slovenije" was what they used for my part that I RMA'd and only took a few days to arrive to Spain, maybe yours is stuck at Customs or something?


I opened the ticket on December 11th. So, a month from today. They are also only sending me replacement plates for the GPU's. Though, I did convince them to send me a whole new CPU block.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Buy now explain later


It's easier to ask forgiveness than it is to get permission


----------



## skupples

so what are peoples opinions on Parallel Vs. Serial when running tri-sli? I'm having some temp problems with my top gpu (in parallel) it runs a good 7-10c hotter than the other two cards. I checked the TIM & pads, everything is gravy... So all I can assume is that it's not getting enough flow. Thinking about switching to Serial, anyone have any opinions/advice?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so what are peoples opinions on Parallel Vs. Serial when running tri-sli? I'm having some temp problems with my top gpu (in parallel) it runs a good 7-10c hotter than the other two cards. I checked the TIM & pads, everything is gravy... So all I can assume is that it's not getting enough flow. Thinking about switching to Serial, anyone have any opinions/advice?


Serial>Parallel

The first card always runs slightly hotter...10c is a bit beyond that tho,probably a duff mount.

As for cards being uneven in serial....
I can do a Heaven run and show you that my triSli rig has 1c between them...the middle card is in fact the coolest....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so what are peoples opinions on Parallel Vs. Serial when running tri-sli? I'm having some temp problems with my top gpu (in parallel) it runs a good 7-10c hotter than the other two cards. I checked the TIM & pads, everything is gravy... So all I can assume is that it's not getting enough flow. Thinking about switching to Serial, anyone have any opinions/advice?


Usually parallel gets you more evenly cooled GPUs across the board than series. The flow is the same across all 3 cards in parallel, so you would be having flow problems over all 3 if you were having flow problems at all. The flow across each card of course is much higher in series.

There really isn't a huge difference either way though and mostly is an aesthetic decision

What does your loop consist of? What pump?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Usually parallel gets you more evenly cooled GPUs across the board than series. The flow is the same across all 3 cards in parallel, so you would be having flow problems over all 3 if you were having flow problems at all.
> 
> What does your loop consist of? What pump?


mcp35x2, 2x 480x60's, 1x 360, res>front rad>bottom rad>gpu's>top rad>cpu>res.

increasing pump speed makes zero difference... possible it's a bad mount. Maybe not enough CLU.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> mcp35x2, 2x 480x60's, 1x 360, res>front rad>bottom rad>gpu's>top rad>cpu>res.
> 
> increasing pump speed makes zero difference... possible it's a bad mount. Maybe not enough CLU.


Probably a bad mount. I run parallel with my tri-sli'd 780's, and the temps are pretty much the same across all 3 +- a degree.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Probably a bad mount. I run parallel with my tri-sli'd 780's, and the temps are pretty much the same across all 3 +- a degree.


Guess i'll have to tare it apart when the motherboard shroud comes in. Good thing I ordered a massive oversupply of FujiPoly extreme, a 30g tube of PK3, & three syringes of CLU.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/nmowysj
> 
> Switched over to my fifth Silverstone case in a row, TJ08-E, will post a pic of insides later.
> 
> Also ditched internal drives for the 4TB external that you can see to keep the mess down to a minimum.


Did you sell your White RV02? I've been thinking of downsizing myself, I can't seem to pick a mATX I like that will handle a two block loop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Speedfan comes to mind first. And most asus driver disks come with a fan control software. It's usually part of the Asus AI Suite.


Speedfan doesn't work on a lot of Asus Boards ..... doesn't work on M6F. FanXpert 2 is part of AISuite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I thought you were going to have the tube res so fluid came in the top and out the bottom so it was actually part of the flow path, why did you change it so both the inlet and outlet are at the bottom, how is the air supposed to get out of the reservoir if the fluid comes in the bottom and out there too?


Losing track of whose build is who but no top ports on rad to use as vent ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's the problem it might have to be in the $100-$250 range. I just don't know that I can afford one of those CaseLabs. I suppose I could stash my acorns for a month or two to get one though.


"Case of the Year" Enthoo Primo is $209 after $20 MIR on newegg ..... can fit twin 480s in P/P + a 240 ..... ir a 420 + 280 + 240

I'm using the 280 + 420 with 1200 rpm fans on 4.6 GHz 4770k and twin 780s w/ 25+% OC. Fans dead silent, GPUs at 39C under Furmark and CPU at 74C. They just showed their two new versions at CES, The Luxe and Pro.... $139 and $89.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> mcp35x2, 2x 480x60's, 1x 360, res>front rad>bottom rad>gpu's>top rad>cpu>res.
> 
> increasing pump speed makes zero difference... possible it's a bad mount. Maybe not enough CLU.


I'm similar situation .... have a 420 + 280 w/ 1200 rpm fans and my w/ the 35x2 and my delta T across the rads is about 4C at low speeds and 2.0 at higher speeds.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Speedfan doesn't work on a lot of Asus Boards ..... doesn't work on M6F. FanXpert 2 is part of AISuite


Yep, speedfan doesn't work for me either. I think I'll just set it at the highest speed possible in BIOS before it becomes too audible.


----------



## roflcopter159

So I've been throwing around the idea of getting a custom loop for a little while. My only problem is that I bring my computer back and forth to school on the major holiday breaks (maybe 4 or 5 times a year). Do you think it would be reasonable to get a custom loop or should I stick to my H100i for now? I get to school by driving ~3 hours on the interstate if that makes any difference.


----------



## morencyam

As long as everything is sealed and tight I think it would be fine. You could always drain your loop prior to the road trip too if it worries you that much. I recently moved into a house and put my rig in the front seat while it was still full and drove a half an hour on roads full of pot holes and speed bumps and nothing came loose
Edit: I should also mention that the case at the time had a horizontal mobo layout so GPU weight wasn't as issue as Jimhans1 mentioned below


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> So I've been throwing around the idea of getting a custom loop for a little while. My only problem is that I bring my computer back and forth to school on the major holiday breaks (maybe 4 or 5 times a year). Do you think it would be reasonable to get a custom loop or should I stick to my H100i for now? I get to school by driving ~3 hours on the interstate if that makes any difference.


I wouldn't be so worried about leaking honestly, but a GPU with a waterblock mounted is a very heavy component, I would want the case to lay down so the PCIe slots were at the bottom to keep the card from putting strain on the motherboard and maybe damaging it. Otherwise, you should be just fine. I've transported many WC systems that way cross country to different LAN events with zero issues.


----------



## roflcopter159

Ok, thanks guys. Do you think that it would work better with rigid acrylic or just standard tubing? Also, it would probably only be a CPU loop for now, I'll add a GPU once I get one I'm satisfied keeping for a while. Last thing, since I live in the dorms at school for now, it would be kind of difficult to drain/fill the loop every time I bring it home, especially for the one week vacations.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> Ok, thanks guys. Do you think that it would work better with rigid acrylic or just standard tubing? Also, it would probably only be a CPU loop for now, I'll add a GPU once I get one I'm satisfied keeping for a while. Last thing, since I live in the dorms at school for now, it would be kind of difficult to drain/fill the loop every time I bring it home, especially for the one week vacations.


My guess is soft tube is safer for regular transport because it has more give to it. If you are careful then you could probably do rigid tho.

Can't seem to find it now, but I know I have seen a guide on best way to pack a wc pc for travel for long distances somewhere that was written by a guy that takes builds to shows regularly. I will try to dig it up


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> Ok, thanks guys. Do you think that it would work better with rigid acrylic or just standard tubing? Also, it would probably only be a CPU loop for now, I'll add a GPU once I get one I'm satisfied keeping for a while. Last thing, since I live in the dorms at school for now, it would be kind of difficult to drain/fill the loop every time I bring it home, especially for the one week vacations.


Add drain port.


----------



## EliteReplay

A lot of cool build is this thread , copying ideas just whne i decide to go WC xD


----------



## roflcopter159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> My guess is soft tube is safer for regular transport because it has more give to it. If you are careful then you could probably do rigid tho.
> 
> Can't seem to find it now, but I know I have seen a guide on best way to pack a wc pc for travel for long distances somewhere that was written by a guy that takes builds to shows regularly. I will try to dig it up


Ok, then I guess a rigid build would have to wait. I'd much rather have a higher chance for security than rigid tubes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Add drain port.


I plan on it, I just feel that doing that so frequently would not only be a bit of a nuisance, but also a bit expensive.


----------



## pc-illiterate

distilled water is cheap. ive driven 6 hours both ways a few times with my loop filled and never had a problem.


----------



## stickg1

Distilled water is cheap assuming your in the US. Add a drain port and use your empty Jack Daniels bottles or gravity bong to catch the water. (Or whatever you crazy college kids have lying around!







)But you probably wont have to drain it every time you transport anyway!


----------



## roflcopter159

Haha alright, thanks. Where can I get distilled water? (Yes I am in the US)


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> Ok, then I guess a rigid build would have to wait. I'd much rather have a higher chance for security than rigid tubes.
> I plan on it, I just feel that doing that so frequently would not only be a bit of a nuisance, but also a bit expensive.


Not expensive if you're just using distilled. I get gallons of distilled for $0.97 from my local grocery store. If you're using something like Mayhems Pastel, then yes, that would get expensive


----------



## pc-illiterate

if you use mayhems pastel knowing youll be transporting the pc, you either have the money to replace it or you drain it into a container or you didnt think very much.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> I plan on it, I just feel that doing that so frequently would not only be a bit of a nuisance, but also a bit expensive.


When water cooling you should get comfortable when draining & filling your loop. Last time I drain & re-fill my loop, I don't need to spent money at all.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Okay I have a couple of dumb questions:

1) Are the EK RAM blocks specific to either the regular Dominator or Dominator Platinum sticks? I bought the Platinum sticks last night and noticed the obvious difference in heatsinks on top.

2) Also, are the heatsinks on the Platinum sticks sufficient enough to keep them cool, or is it pretty much a standard practice for you guys to put EK blocks on them? I know there's a little bit of liberty when it comes to opinion on function versus bling, but statistically speaking, which is better - to heatsink or to water block it?

3) Lastly, does anyone have the clear CSQ RAM blocks installed on their rig? If so, could you post pictures...


----------



## Chopper1591

Good evening guys/girls,

Still looking for more inspiration.
Wanting to put my cpu under water and am now searching for a nice reservoir.

Which reservoir will fit nicely in my Corsair 650D?
I will be using a MCP655 pump with a EK X-Top.
Radiator will be on top of the case with a rad-stand.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yep, speedfan doesn't work for me either. I think I'll just set it at the highest speed possible in BIOS before it becomes too audible.


FanXpert2 works great.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> My guess is soft tube is safer for regular transport because it has more give to it. If you are careful then you could probably do rigid tho.
> 
> Can't seem to find it now, but I know I have seen a guide on best way to pack a wc pc for travel for long distances somewhere that was written by a guy that takes builds to shows regularly. I will try to dig it up


The new Monsoon fittings w/ rigid tube are probably more "secure" than anything...... the video on the acrylic thread shows like a 30 pound weight hanging on them.

I think ya talking about the Singularity Computers video on you tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not expensive if you're just using distilled. I get gallons of distilled for $0.97 from my local grocery store. If you're using something like Mayhems Pastel, then yes, that would get expensive


$0.39 at Walmart for a gallon......

DW, I would prolly just replace with new but w/ Mayhems, I'd simply reuse. Many peeps drain the loops for inspection or modification and simply reuse or filter and reuse.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Okay I have a couple of dumb questions:
> 
> 1) Are the EK RAM blocks specific to either the regular Dominator or Dominator Platinum sticks? I bought the Platinum sticks last night and noticed the obvious difference in heatsinks on top.
> 
> 2) Also, are the heatsinks on the Platinum sticks sufficient enough to keep them cool, or is it pretty much a standard practice for you guys to put EK blocks on them? I know there's a little bit of liberty when it comes to opinion on function versus bling, but statistically speaking, which is better - to heatsink or to water block it?
> 
> 3) Lastly, does anyone have the clear CSQ RAM blocks installed on their rig? If so, could you post pictures...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not expensive if you're just using distilled. I get gallons of distilled for $0.97 from my local grocery store. If you're using something like Mayhems Pastel, then yes, that would get expensive


DDR3 doesn't need water cooling (well outside of extreme overclocking i.e. LN2) .... it doesn't even need the heat sinks for air cooling. When peeps add WBs it's usually for aesthetics.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

oops double post


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> if you use mayhems pastel knowing youll be transporting the pc, you either have the money to replace it or you drain it into a container or you didnt think very much.


Yes, this ^^^^*. Just because you drain it doesn't mean the coolant has to be thrown away.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> Haha alright, thanks. Where can I get distilled water? (Yes I am in the US)


Locally grocery store or CVS/Walgreens type store. It's in the section with the rest of the water jugs, typically a gallon is about $1. Don't get the drinking water or demineralized water, there will be a small section of jugs that say Distilled Water. That's the good stuff!


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Locally grocery store or CVS/Walgreens type store. It's in the section with the rest of the water jugs, typically a gallon is about $1. Don't get the drinking water or demineralized water, there will be a small section of jugs that say Distilled Water. That's the good stuff!


And just about any decent sized truck stop or service station will have it as well, used for vehicle batteries. Now that I'm in Yurp, I buy mine from petrol stations, and it comes in nice plastic 5 litre jerry cans that are also good to drain back into.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> if you use mayhems pastel knowing youll be transporting the pc, you either have the money to replace it or you drain it into a container or you didnt think very much.


Mayhems recommends after draining, run Pastel thru a coffee filter to get any extra crap from the rads out. You can reuse the fluid no problems


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> [spoiler[Mi amigo, I have the same res, albiet the 170mm version. The black nickel plated bit on top, the thing with the slot in it, that's for agua. It's pretty simple to operate, place a flat object in that slot (a coin perhaps), rotate counter-clockwise (a clock's hands go 'round in a circle right to left, so counter-clockwise is left to right), and before you know it, it lifts right off, with no damage to the actual reservoir.
> 
> Once it's off, you'll see this dark hole. Don't be afraid, it's only _dark_, not full of monsters or warranty demons. You can use that dark hole to your benefit, as it makes an ideal (dare I say, _intended_) place to introduce liquid to the system. Then retrieve that fill cap you so bravely removed earlier, place it back over the non-warranty-demon-hole, and turn it clockwise this time, until it is once again water-tight. The usual caveats about O-rings and over-tightening would apply.
> 
> Just to, you know, clarify a bit more for those following along from home (emphasis mine):
> I mean, c'mon man. Did you hesitate to remove the included plug cap from the G1/4 fittings on the bottom? It's not there for decoration.[/spoiler]
> 
> Luna, I love you like an OCN brother, but you're _seriously_ over-thinking some things, and dangerously under-thinking others in this build.


Please cut the crap and I apologize that I've somehow pissed you off to a point you feel the need to troll w/ baby talk and regurgitate what everyone just finished answering and you feel the need to treat me like a degenerate because I asked a question to correct your misinformation.

The only comments you've been throwing are how crappy things are and how I should do things your way, nothing actually contstructive, then coming out w/ this and blowing up over a simple question. I really pray you get help, because you're _*Seriously*_ taking things in the most dramatic and most stress forming way.

I'm sorry I don't have all the knowledge in the world like you feel you have to sit here and look down on people that ask questions, but I'm not afraid to ask questions and not afraid to listen. I just refuse to listen to crap from people like you that feel like they're words are god's gift to man.

I don't know what crawled up your butt but seriously you need to chillax and take a chill pill or a vacation, because if a simple damn question like that is enough to piss you off, I understand why you're rarely ever posting in here.

I asked a simple question, it was a yes or no for removing the LARGE fill cap, that's all, but apparently something in that context was just completely blown out of proportion by your ego. Hope you feel better and get well and learn how to socialize.

To Everyone else:

My apologies for going off topic, I just hate people like this, and this is why certain people feel like they shouldn't ask and end up w/ bad results because of people like that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Okay I have a couple of dumb questions:
> 
> 1) Are the EK RAM blocks specific to either the regular Dominator or Dominator Platinum sticks? I bought the Platinum sticks last night and noticed the obvious difference in heatsinks on top.
> 
> 2) Also, are the heatsinks on the Platinum sticks sufficient enough to keep them cool, or is it pretty much a standard practice for you guys to put EK blocks on them? I know there's a little bit of liberty when it comes to opinion on function versus bling, but statistically speaking, which is better - to heatsink or to water block it?
> 
> 3) Lastly, does anyone have the clear CSQ RAM blocks installed on their rig? If so, could you post pictures...


Clean CSQ ram, CPU, and mobo:


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Okay I have a couple of dumb questions:
> 
> 1) Are the EK RAM blocks specific to either the regular Dominator or Dominator Platinum sticks? I bought the Platinum sticks last night and noticed the obvious difference in heatsinks on top.
> 
> 2) Also, are the heatsinks on the Platinum sticks sufficient enough to keep them cool, or is it pretty much a standard practice for you guys to put EK blocks on them? I know there's a little bit of liberty when it comes to opinion on function versus bling, but statistically speaking, which is better - to heatsink or to water block it?
> 
> 3) Lastly, does anyone have the clear CSQ RAM blocks installed on their rig? If so, could you post pictures...


Our RAM blocks aren't compatible with Dominator Plats by default like they are with the original Dominators and Dominator GTs.

The only setup I've seen in recent times that actually really "needed" watercooled RAM was my Intel Skulltrail setup. As stated, DDR3 runs pretty cool and is mostly aesthetics or extreme benchers.

I believe someone just posted a photo of plexi CSQ ram block in the EK Club thread. There's a bunch around though as they're quite common


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Please cut the crap and I apologize that I've somehow pissed you off to a point you feel the need to troll w/ baby talk and regurgitate what everyone just finished answering and you feel the need to treat me like a degenerate because I asked a question to correct your misinformation.
> 
> The only comments you've been throwing are how crappy things are and how I should do things your way, nothing actually contstructive, then coming out w/ this and blowing up over a simple question. I really pray you get help, because you're _*Seriously*_ taking things in the most dramatic and most stress forming way.
> 
> I'm sorry I don't have all the knowledge in the world like you feel you have to sit here and look down on people that ask questions, but I'm not afraid to ask questions and not afraid to listen. I just refuse to listen to crap from people like you that feel like they're words are god's gift to man.
> 
> I don't know what crawled up your butt but seriously you need to chillax and take a chill pill or a vacation, because if a simple damn question like that is enough to piss you off, I understand why you're rarely ever posting in here.
> 
> I asked a simple question, it was a yes or no for removing the LARGE fill cap, that's all, but apparently something in that context was just completely blown out of proportion by your ego. Hope you feel better and get well and learn how to socialize.
> 
> To Everyone else:
> 
> My apologies for going off topic, I just hate people like this, and this is why certain people feel like they shouldn't ask and end up w/ bad results because of people like that.


Calm your tits man he didn't mean it that way.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Calm your tits man he didn't mean it that way.


My tits are calm check yours







I said what needed to be said , so it can be dropped now, if you don't see it that way then obviously there are issues and or you support cocky attitudes like that.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Calm your tits man he didn't mean it that way.


I took it as sarcastic humor too. Even if it were directed toward me, I would have gotten a nice chuckle.

@Darlene, did you sand those plexi tops down to remove the circles yourself? Kind of looks like I can see circle in some places but not in others. Or maybe I'm just seeing things


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Calm your tits man he didn't mean it that way.
> 
> 
> 
> I took it as sarcastic humor too. Even if it were directed toward me, I would have gotten a nice chuckle.
> 
> @Darlene, did you sand those plexi tops down to remove the circles yourself? Kind of looks like I can see circle in some places but not in others. Or maybe I'm just seeing things
Click to expand...

You're seeing things . . .

There were never any circles on any of the mobo blocks. They are all clear CSQ.

The GPU blocks were frosted circles, (regular CSQ) as that's the only way to get the full coverage size in acrylic, but I wet sanded and polished them so they are crystal clear, although the circles still exist.

Darlene


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I took it as sarcastic humor too. Even if it were directed toward me, I would have gotten a nice chuckle.
> 
> @Darlene, did you sand those plexi tops down to remove the circles yourself? Kind of looks like I can see circle in some places but not in others. Or maybe I'm just seeing things


The only circles I see are where the EK logo used to be.


----------



## morencyam

I bet know what I was seeing. Looks like you removed the EK badge from the CPU and RAM blocks and there is the circle from where they were.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> In your experience, does changing the pump speed and any effect on temperatures? Because everything I read, and have somewhat tested myself with a d5 vario, once you get over ~1.5gpm, raising pump speed has minimal effects on temperatures


Well for the sake of your question I just put the pump back down to 30% manually. GPU temp (watercool block) went up 1C, and CPU temps (Apogee block) have gone up 3C. So yeah, useless really








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I notice your software has a hysteresis setting that you are not using. This would allow you to keep it from jumping on smaller movements and thresholds. It basically takes recent history of data points into effect such that the control system reacts slightly slower.
> 
> With your control curve, if you have your temp hovering between what looks like 60 and 61, your pump will be jumping back and forth between 40 and 80 duty cycle. With some hysteresis, say 2 degrees or so, then your temp would have to move 2 degrees from previous before the pump speeds actually change.
> 
> In short, when tuned correctly, it will keep your output from jumping across thresholds on small temp changes


GPU when idle is under 35C, when loaded over 45C, so that's why I put the changeover at 40C, there's no jumping so I don't need the hysteresis setting. The 80% duty cycle never happens, the GPU is never above 55C. My idea was, if I ever hear the pump, then I immediately know something is wrong


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Well for the sake of your question I just put the pump back down to 30% manually. GPU temp (watercool block) went up 1C, and CPU temps (Apogee block) have gone up 3C. So yeah, useless really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU when idle is under 35C, when loaded over 45C, so that's why I put the changeover at 40C, there's no jumping so I don't need the hysteresis setting. The 80% duty cycle never happens, the GPU is never above 55C. My idea was, if I ever hear the pump, then I immediately know something is wrong


Good to know. Thanks for testing that


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Well for the sake of your question I just put the pump back down to 30% manually. GPU temp (watercool block) went up 1C, and CPU temps (Apogee block) have gone up 3C. So yeah, useless really


What was it at before setting it down to 30% manually?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Our RAM blocks aren't compatible with Dominator Plats by default like they are with the original Dominators and Dominator GTs.
> 
> The only setup I've seen in recent times that actually really "needed" watercooled RAM was my Intel Skulltrail setup. As stated, DDR3 runs pretty cool and is mostly aesthetics or extreme benchers.
> 
> I believe someone just posted a photo of plexi CSQ ram block in the EK Club thread. There's a bunch around though as they're quite common


Thanks for the heads up. I suspected there was a difference in the two RAM sticks, but wasn't sure if there were any compatibility issues with the EK blocks - which is why I asked. I was quite literally just two steps away from placing my order. Glad someone was there to step up and fill me in...1+rep


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What was it at before setting it down to 30% manually?


CPU cores are between 45C and 51C, GPU is at ~49C if I get core 17 projects [email protected] or ~53C on core 15 projects. The rig only has a single AX120 rad, but that's enough because only the GPU is overclocked, and it's not a hot card, only GK104.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I suspected there was a difference in the two RAM sticks, but wasn't sure if there were any compatibility issues - which is why I asked. I was quite literally just two steps away from placing my order. Glad someone was there to step up and fill me in...1+rep


EK makes custom heat spreaders that you can put on your chips to make them compatible with their RAM blocks.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17755/ex-blc-1337/EK_RAM_Monarch_DIMM_Module_-_2_Pack_-_Black_EK-RAM_Monarch_Module_-_Black_2pcs.html?tl=c225s557b133&id=nNRrPW5L

As others have said the RAM blocks are mainly for bling. I do not think I'd mess with adding them to the plats...other RAM sticks, I prly would


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Thanks for the heads up, but with so many others agreeing that the heatsinks will work just fine, I'll just leave it at that. And since I value "function" more than "form" for this particular build, I'd be content either way, but I don't want to force the inclusion of those blocks just for showing off if they're not absolutely necessary.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up, but with so many others agreeing that the heatsinks will work just fine, I'll just leave it at that. And since I value "function" more than "form" for this particular build, I'd be content either way, but I don't want to force the inclusion of those blocks just for showing off if they're not absolutely necessary.


Yeah, skip the ram blocks then


----------



## Mr Mari0o

my watercooled gaming rig



















Nzxt Source 210
i7 4770k
G.Skill Ripjaws X
Asus Maximus VI formula
EVGA GTX 780 ti
Samsung 840 Pro
Corsair AX 860 w/ red sleeve cables

Cooling
Swiftech APOGEE Drive II
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm
Primochill Rigid Acrylic tubing
Primochill Rigid Ghost fittings
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO™ Rev. 2
Corsair SP120's


----------



## Mr Mari0o

sorry for the crap lighting and phone camera quality


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> CPU cores are between 45C and 51C, GPU is at ~49C if I get core 17 projects [email protected] or ~53C on core 15 projects. The rig only has a single AX120 rad, but that's enough because only the GPU is overclocked, and it's not a hot card, only GK104.


No, I mean RPM or pump %


----------



## morencyam

Nice work Mari0o! At first I thought you had a pipe running into the vrm heatsink and thought "what the.... There's no out..." Then I realized it was to the CPU







the internal red paint job really adds that extra touch to the build too


----------



## Mr Mari0o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Nice work Mari0o! At first I thought you had a pipe running into the vrm heatsink and thought "what the.... There's no out..." Then I realized it was to the CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the internal red paint job really adds that extra touch to the build too


Thanks, i still want to paint the gpu shroud red to match my build theme. The Primochill acrylic tubing was fun to play with. At first i though it would be a pain in the @ss to work with, but nope, piece of crumb cake


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> CPU cores are between 45C and 51C, GPU is at ~49C if I get core 17 projects [email protected] or ~53C on core 15 projects. The rig only has a single AX120 rad, but that's enough because only the GPU is overclocked, and it's not a hot card, only GK104.


So, you're still cooling a CPU & GPU with a single 120 rad? And managing decent temps? I love it!

What fans & speeds are you running on that AX120?

Is that the FT03 (Felicity Harmon) build with the i5 and GTX660 that you have linked in your sig? Is there a build log or images posted for it somewhere?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> Thanks, i still want to paint the gpu shroud red to match my build theme. The Primochill acrylic tubing was fun to play with. At first i though it would be a pain in the @ss to work with, but nope, piece of crumb cake


Paint the silver bits red and leave the black as is? I think that would look great. Although putting it under water would look best









Now what would be really cool is if you could change the LED in the GPU shroud to red instead of white. I'm sure it's been done before, but I've never seen it


----------



## Mr Mari0o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Paint the silver bits red and leave the black as is? I think that would look great. Although putting it under water would look best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what would be really cool is if you could change the LED in the GPU shroud to red instead of white. I'm sure it's been done before, but I've never seen it


nailed it right on the head. although i would love to put my gpu under water, i want to sli it first then slab some blocks on both those bad boys >=). maybe with my tax return... well wait and see =)

I'm sure i can paint the geforce logo red, seems easy i just need some good hobby paint and a good tiny brush, all with important attention to detail


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> nailed it right on the head. although i would love to put my gpu under water, i want to sli it first then slab some blocks on both those bad boys >=). maybe with my tax return... well wait and see =)
> 
> I'm sure i can paint the geforce logo red, seems easy i just need some good hobby paint and a good tiny brush, all with important attention to detail


Doesn't that light up with an LED? I meant actually taking the white LED out and putting a red LED in


----------



## Mr Mari0o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Doesn't that light up with an LED? I meant actually taking the white LED out and putting a red LED in


the whole gforce logo its self is the led, it sounds weird but you'd have to see it yourself to understand


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> the whole gforce logo its self is the led, it sounds weird but you'd have to see it yourself to understand


Hmm... I wish I had the funds for a new GPU. I would definitely try to figure out a way to do that


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Doesn't that light up with an LED? I meant actually taking the white LED out and putting a red LED in


People normally remove the rubber (that has the white LED inside of it) wet sand the green paint off, & re-paint it w/e color they are going for. I'm going to assume that a latex paint is the best application, but that part could be totally wrong.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> People normally remove the rubber (that has the white LED inside of it) wet sand the green paint off, & re-paint it w/e color they are going for. I'm going to assume that a latex paint is the best application, but that part could be totally wrong.


Heh, a not-insignificant part of my motivation to get wet this for this build was that it would get rid of the green GeForce GTX logos. Love the cards, and those are some damned nice air coolers, but seriously hate Nvidia's predilection for noxious green.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> People normally remove the rubber (that has the white LED inside of it) wet sand the green paint off, & re-paint it w/e color they are going for. I'm going to assume that a latex paint is the best application, but that part could be totally wrong.


Usually latex paint is opaque, not sure it would work if it's going to be backlit, I would look at the hobby stores for paint used on windows to make faux stained glass as it is transparent, then just use a white let behind it.......


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Usually latex paint is opaque, not sure it would work if it's going to be backlit, I would look at the hobby stores for paint used on windows to make faux stained glass as it is transparent, then just use a white let behind it.......


Perhaps a piece of cellophane slipped in there would work as well. Maybe even be cheaper/easier?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Perhaps a piece of cellophane slipped in there would work as well. Maybe even be cheaper/easier?


If i could make the GeForce logo red..damn..


----------



## Jameswalt1

Loop design finally complete, ditched the valves up top, looks way cleaner









Ignore the distortion in the photo from the wide angle lens :/


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> No, I mean RPM or pump %


Oh right. To recap. The experiment was dropping the PWM duty cycle from 40% to 30%, which in my small CPU+GPU loop I have makes only 1C difference on the GPU and a bit more maybe 3C on the CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> So, you're still cooling a CPU & GPU with a single 120 rad? And managing decent temps? I love it!
> 
> What fans & speeds are you running on that AX120?
> 
> Is that the FT03 (Felicity Harmon) build with the i5 and GTX660 that you have linked in your sig? Is there a build log or images posted for it somewhere?


Push fan is NB PK-PS 140mm and pull fan is NB eLoop B12-P. Yeah I know, eLoops aren't supposed to be used in pull, but it's fine on an AX120. I think the fans are mostly hovering around 1100rpm, I could slow them down further. Pics of dusty rig here http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5324023


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Loop design finally complete, ditched the valves up top, looks way cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the distortion in the photo from the wide angle lens :/


*drool*

That PC should be sponsored by the new RoboCop film that's coming out.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> *drool*
> 
> That PC should be sponsored by the new RoboCop film that's coming out.


Robocop comes home and thats his personal system.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Robocop comes home and thats his personal system.


oooooorrrrrrrrrrrr......

That IS Robocop


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So... I did something really really stupid and didnt even give it a second thought, heres the story...

Tonight I thought it would be a good idea to set up my new 500GB SSD so I unplugged all my other hard drives and there power... forgetting my pump was connected to one of the then I spent the next hour or so reinstalling Windows on my new drive downloading updates etc etc, restarted and my bios threw me a CPU temp warning, thought to myself... well... thats a bit odd, went in and the CPU was at 77° and climbing fast... so I did what any normal person would do, I freaked out, promptly shat myself then shut it down then thought what in the hell went wrong. after a good minute I realized how much of an idiot I am, I had unplugged the power to my all my hard drives but also to my pump and 5 fans... yes you read that right BOTH my pump and 5 fans had no power for an hour while I went about my business. So after all of this I left it to cool down, plugged it all back in, turned it on and watched the temps drop back down to 38° in the bios, its normal temp.

Now... the questions...

1. Could I of stuffed any of my watercooling gear, pump, tubes, rads etc

2. More importantly, could I of stuffed my CPU or Motherboard

3. Do you think I need a few kicks to the head for being suck a tard

I will mention I just took the 15 minutes to write this on my PC and it seems to be running fine, its sitting on its 3.7GHz (dont have it clocking to 1.6GHz yet) at around 40° which is its normal temps

Thanks for reading my total n00b, tard and other things Im not aloud to say on the forum moment and feel free to call me an idiot if needed


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So... I did something really really stupid and didnt even give it a second thought, heres the story...
> 
> Tonight I thought it would be a good idea to set up my new 500GB SSD so I unplugged all my other hard drives and there power... forgetting my pump was connected to one of the then I spent the next hour or so reinstalling Windows on my new drive downloading updates etc etc, restarted and my bios threw me a CPU temp warning, thought to myself... well... thats a bit odd, went in and the CPU was at 77° and climbing fast... so I did what any normal person would do, I freaked out, promptly shat myself then shut it down then thought what in the hell went wrong. after a good minute I realized how much of an idiot I am, I had unplugged the power to my all my hard drives but also to my pump and 5 fans... yes you read that right BOTH my pump and 5 fans had no power for an hour while I went about my business. So after all of this I left it to cool down, plugged it all back in, turned it on and watched the temps drop back down to 38° in the bios, its normal temp.
> 
> Now... the questions...
> 
> 1. Could I of stuffed any of my watercooling gear, pump, tubes, rads etc
> 
> 2. More importantly, could I of stuffed my CPU or Motherboard
> 
> 3. Do you think I need a few kicks to the head for being suck a tard
> 
> I will mention I just took the 15 minutes to write this on my PC and it seems to be running fine, its sitting on its 3.7GHz (dont have it clocking to 1.6GHz yet) at around 40° which is its normal temps
> 
> Thanks for reading my total n00b, tard and other things Im not aloud to say on the forum moment and feel free to call me an idiot if needed


Since you were able to boot up, I think you'll be fine. I had this happen to me when a connection on my Molex splitter board was going bad. The pump would stop running and things got real hot real quick and ended up BSODing. So I connected the pump to a different plug and let the pump and fans run for about ten minutes to bring the water temps back down, booted up and was fine. The CPU thermal protection in there for a reason. It shuts everything down before getting hot enough to cause any damage. The real test will be once you start putting any heavy stress on the CPU though


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Did you sell your White RV02? I've been thinking of downsizing myself, I can't seem to pick a mATX I like that will handle a two block loop.


I've still got the RV02 but i've been wanting to try a TJ08 for a while now.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So... I did something really really stupid and didnt even give it a second thought, heres the story...
> 
> Tonight I thought it would be a good idea to set up my new 500GB SSD so I unplugged all my other hard drives and there power... forgetting my pump was connected to one of the then I spent the next hour or so reinstalling Windows on my new drive downloading updates etc etc, restarted and my bios threw me a CPU temp warning, thought to myself... well... thats a bit odd, went in and the CPU was at 77° and climbing fast... so I did what any normal person would do, I freaked out, promptly shat myself then shut it down then thought what in the hell went wrong. after a good minute I realized how much of an idiot I am, I had unplugged the power to my all my hard drives but also to my pump and 5 fans... yes you read that right BOTH my pump and 5 fans had no power for an hour while I went about my business. So after all of this I left it to cool down, plugged it all back in, turned it on and watched the temps drop back down to 38° in the bios, its normal temp.
> 
> Now... the questions...
> 
> 1. Could I of stuffed any of my watercooling gear, pump, tubes, rads etc
> 
> 2. More importantly, could I of stuffed my CPU or Motherboard
> 
> 3. Do you think I need a few kicks to the head for being suck a tard
> 
> I will mention I just took the 15 minutes to write this on my PC and it seems to be running fine, its sitting on its 3.7GHz (dont have it clocking to 1.6GHz yet) at around 40° which is its normal temps
> 
> Thanks for reading my total n00b, tard and other things Im not aloud to say on the forum moment and feel free to call me an idiot if needed


I think you should be fine. If you burnt up your CPU then you wouldn't be booting. If you burnt out a pump motor, then your temps wouldn't be going back down.

Just keep an eye on it, but I think you are fine









CPU thermal protection is there so you don't jack anything up


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Since you were able to boot up, I think you'll be fine. I had this happen to me when a connection on my Molex splitter board was going bad. The pump would stop running and things got real hot real quick and ended up BSODing. So I connected the pump to a different plug and let the pump and fans run for about ten minutes to bring the water temps back down, booted up and was fine. The CPU thermal protection in there for a reason. It shuts everything down before getting hot enough to cause any damage. The real test will be once you start putting any heavy stress on the CPU though


Well I'm amazed it went an hour without crashing and was only 77° in the bios, I thought something like that it would of crashed in 20mins at over 100°?

After I set Windows up I'll run a 30min OCCT stress and see how it goes. I'm actually worried about the gaskets on my water block, really hope there not damaged


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good evening guys/girls,
> 
> Still looking for more inspiration.
> Wanting to put my cpu under water and am now searching for a nice reservoir.
> 
> Which reservoir will fit nicely in my Corsair 650D?
> I will be using a MCP655 pump with a EK X-Top.
> Radiator will be on top of the case with a rad-stand.


Nobody?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> So, you're still cooling a CPU & GPU with a single 120 rad? And managing decent temps? I love it!


Well I'm glad to hear this because long story short I can only fit 3 single 120s in my case at present for a CPU + GPU (a RX120, an ST45 and an ST30.). Waiting on the 45 from FCPU right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Well I'm amazed it went an hour without crashing and was only 77° in the bios, I thought something like that it would of crashed in 20mins at over 100°?
> 
> After I set Windows up I'll run a 30min OCCT stress and see how it goes. I'm actually worried about the gaskets on my water block, really hope there not damaged


Yeah dude don't worry this has happened to me too. If it did not even blue screen you were not even close to being "too hot". I taped my pump connector to the psu molex to make sure it doesn't come off itself.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> my watercooled gaming rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nzxt Source 210
> i7 4770k
> G.Skill Ripjaws X
> Asus Maximus VI formula
> EVGA GTX 780 ti
> Samsung 840 Pro
> Corsair AX 860 w/ red sleeve cables
> 
> Cooling
> Swiftech APOGEE Drive II
> Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 360mm
> Primochill Rigid Acrylic tubing
> Primochill Rigid Ghost fittings
> Swiftech MCRES-MICRO™ Rev. 2
> Corsair SP120's


That looks amazing! Very clean and I like the logo on the side of the res.


----------



## Mr Mari0o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks amazing! Very clean and I like the logo on the side of the res.


thanks =).
since you're a swiftech rep, are you guys coming out with a 780 ti waterblock?, or will the 780 kamodo work on the 780 ti


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> thanks =).
> since you're a swiftech rep, are you guys coming out with a 780 ti waterblock?, or will the 780 kamodo work on the 780 ti


There are some slight differences between the PCB of these two cards and we are coming out with one specifically for the 780 ti.


----------



## Mr Mari0o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There are some slight differences between the PCB of these two cards and we are coming out with one specifically for the 780 ti.


AWESOME








I can't wait to get one


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> AWESOME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait to get one


Just hope your VRMs don't fry.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just hope your VRMs don't fry.


What are you talking about?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Loop design finally complete, ditched the valves up top, looks way cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the distortion in the photo from the wide angle lens :/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks very nice! good job on that.









Quick question though, why in some places did you decide to run 2 45's instead of 1 90?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> That looks very nice! good job on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question though, why in some places did you decide to run 2 45's instead of 1 90?


Thanks, can you highlight an example? All of the fittings used are 90's


----------



## Diablo2424

This was with my AMD Phenom ii x4 940 BE + Asus M2N-SLI Deluxe setup that I JUST replaced two days ago with my current setup in my sig. But only the Motherboard and CPU changed, nothing else. So it's looks pretty much the same.





The only pic with the new CPU/Motherboard - while re-filling and getting out the air bubbles.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Loop design finally complete, ditched the valves up top, looks way cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the distortion in the photo from the wide angle lens :/


Even a picture you think is bad is better than my best photo.

WHY ARE YOU SO GOOD AT EVERYTHING


----------



## strong island 1

what do you guys/gals think would look better to pass tubes thru the walls and midplate of my sth10. I can't decide between the alphacool ones or bitspower. My fittings are so wide that they almost overpower the bitspower fittings. The alphacool ones are much wider. Do you guys think bigger or smaller would look better. Thanks for any advice.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15160/ex-tub-1153/Alphacool_G14_Bulkhead_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Matte_Black.html#blank


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html#blank


----------



## morencyam

The Alphacool ones look like they were put in a bag of gravel and shaken. I saw go with Bitspower. I just got a few and they are much wider than they look in the picture. Ah but the measurement tell the whole story. The AC are 6mm wider. I still the the BP ones would look better


----------



## Gaupz

Hey guys just a quick question. I have a Darkside Dual bay res/pump combo and I re-threaded the fill port by accident and now it doesn't seal properly because its on an angle







I noticed that I topped up my res and a few days later I was down water again.

All of the air is out of the loop, I just don't have a great seal on the fill port. This shouldn't effect anything should it?

Also been running a month now and no leaks. My best guess is it's evaporating?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Loop design finally complete, ditched the valves up top, looks way cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the distortion in the photo from the wide angle lens :/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks very nice! good job on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question though, why in some places did you decide to run 2 45's instead of 1 90?
Click to expand...

They are rotary 90's,not 2 45's


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The Alphacool ones look like they were put in a bag of gravel and shaken. I saw go with Bitspower. I just got a few and they are much wider than they look in the picture. Ah but the measurement tell the whole story. The AC are 6mm wider. I still the the BP ones would look better


ya the alphacool ones have a very weird finish. I just like the fact that they are wider. I actually have one of the bitspower ones that i bought at microcenter just to see how they look. I attached my fitting and it's almost as wide as the bitspower one so I thought it might look funny. primochill has some that are really wide but they are plastic and i don't really like them. i can't decide which to order.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Perhaps a piece of cellophane slipped in there would work as well. Maybe even be cheaper/easier?


Not sure how that would work unless you were sticking it back into the stock cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> If i could make the GeForce logo red..damn..


that's what we are talking about. The LED is white, which then shines through green-painted rubber. All you need to do is wet-sand the green paint off & go find some paint that dries translucent. Faux Stained glass paint would likely work well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The Alphacool ones look like they were put in a bag of gravel and shaken. I saw go with Bitspower. I just got a few and they are much wider than they look in the picture. Ah but the measurement tell the whole story. The AC are 6mm wider. I still the the BP ones would look better
> 
> 
> 
> ya the alphacool ones have a very weird finish. I just like the fact that they are wider. I actually have one of the bitspower ones that i bought at microcenter just to see how they look. I attached my fitting and it's almost as wide as the bitspower one so I thought it might look funny. primochill has some that are really wide but they are plastic and i don't really like them. i can't decide which to order.
Click to expand...

Alphacool have a matt finish,the BP have a gloss finish.
The BP have the best finish by far.

Go BP and never look back.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah but the AC ones are supposed to look rough and beat up I guess? They are like the acid-washed jeans of fittings.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah but the AC ones are supposed to look rough and beat up I guess? They are like the acid-washed jeans of fittings.


They look like they were drug across cement for 10 miles, worked with some pliers, and thrown into a bag full other others


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Thanks, can you highlight an example? All of the fittings used are 90's


The bends right in front of the clear plastic of the reservoirs.

If those aren't 2 45's, is it a 90 that rotates in the middle and why it looks like 2 pieces?

Oh thanks B NEGATIVE.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The Alphacool ones look like they were put in a bag of gravel and shaken. I saw go with Bitspower. I just got a few and they are much wider than they look in the picture. Ah but the measurement tell the whole story. The AC are 6mm wider. I still the the BP ones would look better
> 
> 
> 
> ya the alphacool ones have a very weird finish. I just like the fact that they are wider. I actually have one of the bitspower ones that i bought at microcenter just to see how they look. I attached my fitting and it's almost as wide as the bitspower one so I thought it might look funny. primochill has some that are really wide but they are plastic and i don't really like them. i can't decide which to order.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Alphacool have a matt finish,the BP have a gloss finish.
> The BP have the best finish by far.
> 
> Go BP and never look back.
Click to expand...

ya I think that's what I will order. They match my other fittings much better. The alphacool ones don't really match anything in my build. I was just worried my fittings will look too wide on the bitspower fillports but I think it should look ok and a lot cleaner then the alphacool bulkheads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah but the AC ones are supposed to look rough and beat up I guess? They are like the acid-washed jeans of fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> They look like they were drug across cement for 10 miles, worked with some pliers, and thrown into a bag full other others
Click to expand...

I think they would look cool in the right build. maybe with some copper tubing. but I don't think they fit my build. Your right though they do look beat up. Especially with watercooling gear pictures on the websites are a lot of times wrong. I wouldn't be surprised if they came looking different than that pic.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The Alphacool ones look like they were put in a bag of gravel and shaken. I saw go with Bitspower. I just got a few and they are much wider than they look in the picture. Ah but the measurement tell the whole story. The AC are 6mm wider. I still the the BP ones would look better
> 
> 
> 
> ya the alphacool ones have a very weird finish. I just like the fact that they are wider. I actually have one of the bitspower ones that i bought at microcenter just to see how they look. I attached my fitting and it's almost as wide as the bitspower one so I thought it might look funny. primochill has some that are really wide but they are plastic and i don't really like them. i can't decide which to order.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Alphacool have a matt finish,the BP have a gloss finish.
> The BP have the best finish by far.
> 
> Go BP and never look back.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ya I think that's what I will order. They match my other fittings much better. The alphacool ones don't really match anything in my build. I was just worried my fittings will look too wide on the bitspower fillports but I think it should look ok and a lot cleaner then the alphacool bulkheads.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah but the AC ones are supposed to look rough and beat up I guess? They are like the acid-washed jeans of fittings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They look like they were drug across cement for 10 miles, worked with some pliers, and thrown into a bag full other others
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think they would look cool in the right build. maybe with some copper tubing. but I don't think they fit my build. Your right though they do look beat up. Especially with watercooling gear pictures on the websites are a lot of times wrong. I wouldn't be surprised if they came looking different than that pic.
Click to expand...

BP and Alphacool side by side,just took these for you. Maybe this will make it easier for you.














The BP one has a slightly wider top than the Alphacool one.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quick question fellas... Could I put an alphacool XT45 360mm radiator in the top of my Fractal Design Arc Midi original edition case and then use the Apogee Drive II waterblock w/ integrated 35X pump without the use of a reservoir? I would fill it up from the radiator and the radiator would be in the top and act like a res for the pump / CPU block combo. Is this feasible or am I crazy? Would I just be better off getting the Swiftech MCR320 Quiet Power Res Series 360mm and call it good?

Thanks for the input everyone! I'm trying to get my feet wet quickly and on a budget so I'm getting a bit creative.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> They look like they were drug across cement for 10 miles, worked with some pliers, and thrown into a bag full other others


Well I'd never have to worry about whether or not these were tight enough. _Honey where's the pipe wrench?_


----------



## spikezone2004

my pump/res has started making a terrible noise out of no where i cant hear myself think over it

Doesnt sound as loud in the video but it is extremely loud

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0lg6tgg74cr5x71/VIDEO0032.mp4


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Quick question fellas... Could I put an alphacool XT45 360mm radiator in the top of my Fractal Design Arc Midi original edition case and then use the Apogee Drive II waterblock w/ integrated 35X pump without the use of a reservoir? I would fill it up from the radiator and the radiator would be in the top and act like a res for the pump / CPU block combo. Is this feasible or am I crazy? Would I just be better off getting the Swiftech MCR320 Quiet Power Res Series 360mm and call it good?
> 
> Thanks for the input everyone! I'm trying to get my feet wet quickly and on a budget so I'm getting a bit creative.


It is possible, it would function almost like a AIO loop. Your challenge I would think would be filling the system and bleeding the air, but as long as you can feed the pump and never have it run dry it should be ok. Another issue would be monitoring the water level. Having a res lets you see the status of the coolant in your system, though you could use clear tubing.

I personally wouldn't attempt it, but that's based solely on my limited experience.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> It is possible, it would function almost like a AIO loop. Your challenge I would think would be filling the system and bleeding the air, but as long as you can feed the pump and never have it run dry it should be ok. Another issue would be monitoring the water level. Having a res lets you see the status of the coolant in your system, though you could use clear tubing.
> 
> I personally wouldn't attempt it, but that's based solely on my limited experience.


I understand man, I appreciate the input. I'll just get good stuff and do it right the first time with a res and everything! Thanks!


----------



## John Freeman

if i just let my computer run with the res port open will the tiny bubbles release themselves to end this gurgling sound from my pump?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> if i just let my computer run with the res port open will the tiny bubbles release themselves to end this gurgling sound from my pump?


Even with the port shut all the bubbles should eventually collect there, and then you can open it and top it off.


----------



## John Freeman

and should the res be filled to the very top or leave a little space. this is my first run at water cooling


----------



## LunaP

Can anyone tell me what material and or what this type of lighting board is ? I'm aware there are lights beneath it just acn't find it available on any site, is it an acrylic sheet w/ white paper or? FCPU's asking as well.


----------



## arcade9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Can anyone tell me what material and or what this type of lighting board is ? I'm aware there are lights beneath it just acn't find it available on any site, is it an acrylic sheet w/ white paper or? FCPU's asking as well.


that is called a lightbox or lightboxes, you can order it or get it custom made from here http://www.coldzero.eu/140-lightboxes
just ask coldzero if he can make one to fit your case, cause the one from the link is for the silverstone tj07, you can also order custom made backplates for graphics cards and many more!

Ships worldwide


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Can anyone tell me what material and or what this type of lighting board is ? I'm aware there are lights beneath it just acn't find it available on any site, is it an acrylic sheet w/ white paper or? FCPU's asking as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's either white acrylic or painted acrylic cut from a sheet with an led strip underneath.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arcade9*
> 
> that is called a lightbox or lightboxes, you can order it or get it custom made from here http://www.coldzero.eu/140-lightboxes
> just ask coldzero if he can make one to fit your case, cause the one from the link is for the silverstone tj07, you can also order custom made backplates for graphics cards and many more!
> 
> Ships worldwide


+rep TYSM <3


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Can anyone tell me what material and or what this type of lighting board is ? I'm aware there are lights beneath it just acn't find it available on any site, is it an acrylic sheet w/ white paper or? FCPU's asking as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Here's the build log it's from; the information about the midplate from the guy who actually made it is scattered throughout this page.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1420865/build-log-project-bright-obsidian/40

You could probably even try asking the guy himself.


----------



## stickg1

Probably just a white acrylic sheet.


----------



## kpoeticg

Alot of people use clear acrylic to put the LED's in and then the white translucent acrylic to diffuse the light so you don't have a bunch of spots where the LED's are


----------



## arcade9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Alot of people use clear acrylic to put the LED's in and then the white translucent acrylic to diffuse the light so you don't have a bunch of spots where the LED's are


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Alot of people use clear acrylic to put the LED's in and then the white translucent acrylic to diffuse the light so you don't have a bunch of spots where the LED's are


yes thats exactly how its made, clear acrylic along with white acrylic, you can make it yourself or order it from coldzero







whatever works best


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not sure how that would work unless you were sticking it back into the stock cooler.
> that's what we are talking about. The LED is white, which then shines through green-painted rubber. All you need to do is wet-sand the green paint off & go find some paint that dries translucent. Faux Stained glass paint would likely work well.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I've taken a different approach to my "lightbox"... Currently awaiting for all of my hardware from several different sources, so I can get started on plumbing it.

Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1430680/build-log-the-liquidator-caselabs-st10/0_70#post_21565631


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I've taken a different approach to my "lightbox"... Currently awaiting for all of my hardware from several different sources, so I can get started on plumbing it.
> 
> Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1430680/build-log-the-liquidator-caselabs-st10/0_70#post_21565631
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've seen this before. It must've been you. Looks nice and chilly in there!


----------



## Pimphare

Anyone have some experience with either of these fan controllers?

Phobya 4 channel

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=31817

or

Lian Li 4 channel
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=39216

I'm looking at mounting one or two of these in a more discrete location than they're intended for.

Current status:


5.25 bays are gone and I need some way of controlling these fans. Any suggestions?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> my pump/res has started making a terrible noise out of no where i cant hear myself think over it
> 
> Doesnt sound as loud in the video but it is extremely loud
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/0lg6tgg74cr5x71/VIDEO0032.mp4


RMA time.


----------



## shtqbe

Just finished my first h2o build


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Nobody?


Looks like you got lost in the sea of posts.Not familiar with the 600D but do you have all your drive bays in still,or are you planning on removing any?I would think you could fit a nice tube res in there and secure it to the drive bay cage which I've see here before.

Or something like this....


I know you have a different pump and top,but a good idea I might say


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I think you should be fine. If you burnt up your CPU then you wouldn't be booting. If you burnt out a pump motor, then your temps wouldn't be going back down.
> 
> Just keep an eye on it, but I think you are fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU thermal protection is there so you don't jack anything up


Cool, just was a bit worried I cooked my CPU









I'll be watching it like a new born baby for a while, maybe throw some small stress tests at it for 30 mins or so

Thermal protection never protected my AMD chip... then again its still running fine








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah dude don't worry this has happened to me too. If it did not even blue screen you were not even close to being "too hot". I taped my pump connector to the psu molex to make sure it doesn't come off itself.


Well like I said, I didnt even give it a second thought when I pulled cables, I thought it was all working. Should of realized my room was to quiet without 5 fans maxed out









My problem was I just pulled my modular power cables out, for my drives and sound card, my pump and fans are connected to my sound card cable


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The GPU blocks were frosted circles, (regular CSQ) as that's the only way to get the full coverage size in acrylic, but I wet sanded and polished them so they are crystal clear, although the circles still exist.


I lucked out .... I didn't like the frosted circles so I bought the clear one not realizing at first that it was shorter..... was good thing tho.....long ones wouldn't have worked..... well at least the lower card in SLI bottom of block wuda hit the res bracket on the Enthoo Primo. Downside to the short one, ya need two nuts to fasten the backplate screws to the PCB and EK doesn't give ya them ..... I have asked them to a) check their production line so no body else gets stuck and 2) to send some to their suppliers so I could get matching color (my hardware store ones are silver, wud prefer matching black) but tho they said they were looking into it .... never did hear back.

They did answer why they made too different lengths .....

1. Black Block looks better matching black backplate full length
2. They thot long one in acrylic looked better w/ more circles.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> my watercooled gaming rig


Got me with an "optical delusion" there..... looks like tubing goes in to MoBo block and out CPU









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So... I did something really really stupid and didnt even give it a second thought, heres the story...
> 
> Tonight I thought it would be a good idea to set up my new 500GB SSD so I unplugged all my other hard drives and there power... forgetting my pump was connected to one of the then ....:


I cuda seen myself doing that.....so made a last minute addition to the build.



I actually bot the wired version thinking to get an rpm indication on the Reeven Six Eyes .... but rpm is below threshold and sets off alarm.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Thanks, can you highlight an example? All of the fittings used are 90's


I think he means the long radius double rotary 90s ... look like two 45s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> what do you guys/gals think would look better to pass tubes thru the walls and midplate of my sth10. I can't decide between the alphacool ones or bitspower. My fittings are so wide that they almost overpower the bitspower fittings. The alphacool ones are much wider. Do you guys think bigger or smaller would look better. Thanks for any advice.


I had planned on using the BPs ..... but once things got here, there was room under the top fan grille to expose the rad top ports ..... so I just popped two 30mm BP extensions on w/ pluigs and out the fan grill back on to cover them.





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> if i just let my computer run with the res port open will the tiny bubbles release themselves to end this gurgling sound from my pump?


is there anything higher than your res that would drain into it and over fill it ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Anyone have some experience with either of these fan controllers?
> 
> Phobya 4 channel
> 
> Lian Li 4 channel
> 
> I'm looking at mounting one or two of these in a more discrete location than they're intended for.
> 
> 5.25 bays are gone and I need some way of controlling these fans. Any suggestions?


PCB Fan Hub would be my recommendation....3 styles available

VC to VC
PWM to PWM (Swiftech and ModMyToys)
PWM to DC (Phanteks only)

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c121/s424/list/p1/b214/ModMyToys-Fan_Accessories-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c121/s424/list/p1/b33/Swiftech-Fan_Accessories-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html

Phanteks one is not available yet other than buying a Phanteks case and ya get one for free







.... supposed to be this month.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Bah...double post


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shtqbe*
> 
> Just finished my first h2o build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Haven't seen many (any?) Arc Mini R2 builds around here.
If you switched the res to something like an XSPC Tank Res, you could put that front rad in push/pull. Just a thought, but probably not worth the trouble.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nice! *Haven't seen many (any?) Arc Mini R2 builds around here.*
> If you switched the res to something like an XSPC Tank Res, you could put that front rad in push/pull. Just a thought, but probably not worth the trouble.


You serious?! There have been at least 3 in the past like week....

Sorry read that as Midi at first









Yeah, haven't seen many minis


----------



## shtqbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nice! Haven't seen many (any?) Arc Mini R2 builds around here.
> If you switched the res to something like an XSPC Tank Res, you could put that front rad in push/pull. Just a thought, but probably not worth the trouble.


Thanks, maybe its the first one







I had push/pull, but its not worth it. Need to buy corsair sp120s







But i was more like thinking about getting 120 radiator in the bottom, its gonna be tight fit with PSU cables


----------



## ProfeZZor X

How many of you with fill ports have them in plain sight on your PCs? ...I was thinking to drill a hole on the top panel of my case and install a fill port (same color as the case) for easy access, but I'm not sure if it'll look aesthetically pleasing. I wouldn't imagine that I'd use the fill port frequently since I'm usually on top of maintaining my coolant levels, but it's also a convenient way to fill the reservoir... so there lies my dilemma.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shtqbe*
> 
> Thanks, maybe its the first one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had push/pull, but its not worth it. Need to buy corsair sp120s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i was more like thinking about getting 120 radiator in the bottom, its gonna be tight fit with PSU cables


Skip the SP120s and get GT AP-15s instead. You could probably fit a 240 monsta up front if you wanted as well, if the 120 in the bottom didn't fit nicely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> How many of you with fill ports have them in plain sight on your PCs? ...I was thinking to drill a hole on the top panel of my case and install a fill port (same color as the case) for easy access, but I'm not sure if it'll look aesthetically pleasing. I wouldn't imagine that I'd use the fill port frequently since I'm usually on top of maintaining my coolant levels, but it's also a convenient way to fill the reservoir... so there lies my dilemma.


Seeing as how most (all) cases have removable side panels, I don't see any reason to drill a fillport in the top of your case unless you're just bored and feel like doing it. Otherwise, two thumbscrews and fill it up from the top of your reservoir is pretty darn painless.


----------



## Mr iggy

Will two 480 Monsta and one 240 Monsta rads fit in a 900d build?


----------



## VSG

Afraid not, You can fit in 1 480 Monsta in the bottom but not in the top. You also will be unable to fit in that 240 Monsta up front or in the bottom if you have another monsta on the other side.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Seeing as how most (all) cases have removable side panels, I don't see any reason to drill a fillport in the top of your case unless you're just bored and feel like doing it. Otherwise, two thumbscrews and fill it up from the top of your reservoir is pretty darn painless.


Yeah, but my reservoir won't be in an accessible area like most builds. I'm going all out minimalist on my build, so having access to filling it will be somewhat difficult... But not impossible. But I see your point. I suppose I can always make that area the only part of my build where I use flexible tubing and route it in a way where I have better access to filling the reservoir.


----------



## Mr iggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Afraid not, You can fit in 1 480 Monsta in the bottom but not in the top. You also will be unable to fit in that 240 Monsta up front or in the bottom if you have another monsta on the other side.


what about the 60mm?


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The Alphacool ones look like they were put in a bag of gravel and shaken. I saw go with Bitspower. I just got a few and they are much wider than they look in the picture. Ah but the measurement tell the whole story. The AC are 6mm wider. I still the the BP ones would look better
> 
> 
> 
> ya the alphacool ones have a very weird finish. I just like the fact that they are wider. I actually have one of the bitspower ones that i bought at microcenter just to see how they look. I attached my fitting and it's almost as wide as the bitspower one so I thought it might look funny. primochill has some that are really wide but they are plastic and i don't really like them. i can't decide which to order.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Alphacool have a matt finish,the BP have a gloss finish.
> The BP have the best finish by far.
> 
> Go BP and never look back.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ya I think that's what I will order. They match my other fittings much better. The alphacool ones don't really match anything in my build. I was just worried my fittings will look too wide on the bitspower fillports but I think it should look ok and a lot cleaner then the alphacool bulkheads.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah but the AC ones are supposed to look rough and beat up I guess? They are like the acid-washed jeans of fittings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They look like they were drug across cement for 10 miles, worked with some pliers, and thrown into a bag full other others
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think they would look cool in the right build. maybe with some copper tubing. but I don't think they fit my build. Your right though they do look beat up. Especially with watercooling gear pictures on the websites are a lot of times wrong. I wouldn't be surprised if they came looking different than that pic.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> BP and Alphacool side by side,just took these for you. Maybe this will make it easier for you.
> 
> The BP one has a slightly wider top than the Alphacool one.
Click to expand...

That is so awesome, thank you +rep. I wanted to use whichever was wider and so this helps a lot. Frozencpu should update there picture because your picture of the alphacool one looks so much different then theres. The finish is much cleaner than I thought.

Sorry I can't figure out how to remove all the extra replies within the quote. I tried it but it messed everything up.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr iggy*
> 
> what about the 60mm?


Much better chance since the Monsta is thicker than the 60mm UT60 + a 25mm fan. If you only do push or pull and not both, you will be fine with both 480s and that 240 in the bottom.


----------



## Mr iggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Much better chance since the Monsta is thicker than the 60mm UT60 + a 25mm fan. If you only do push or pull and not both, you will be fine with both 480s and that 240 in the bottom.


I just gonna go with push I plan on one 480 on top and a 480 at the basement and the 240 in the basement all in push and would that work?


----------



## stickg1

I finally got my last rad today. I was excited to get it all finished. Here's the final product! I know I'm probably biased because it's my handy work but I think it looks really good. I might hold on to the Arc Midi for a few months now instead of upsizing. Then next time I rebuild in a bigger case hopefully there will be new mobo's, CPUs, GPUs, etc. to do a completely new build with. I was thinking about it, it would be kind of silly to get a new case, all new rads, a new pump, and a bunch more fans (essentially $500 worth of stuff) just for a few degrees Celsius.

Anyway, here she is!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr iggy*
> 
> I just gonna go with push I plan on one 480 on top and a 480 at the basement and the 240 in the basement all in push and would that work?


You should be fine as long as you use standard 25mm thick rad fans. Note that if you are going to have the pump resting on the bottom, be sure to make sure you got enough space for it between the 240 rad and the PSU.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr iggy*
> 
> what about the 60mm?


Do you currently own the 900d? If not, you could opt for a enthoo primo, i have a 480 monsta, a 480 xt45 and a slim 360 fitted inside mine

I could go for a 60 mm instead of the 45 one but then i would loose one set of fans

If sheer rad space is what youre looking for then you could put even a fourth rad (slim 240) on the side of the primo


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I finally got my last rad today. I was excited to get it all finished. Here's the final product! I know I'm probably biased because it's my handy work but *I think it looks really good*. I might hold on to the Arc Midi for a few months now instead of upsizing. Then next time I rebuild in a bigger case hopefully there will be new mobo's, CPUs, GPUs, etc. to do a completely new build with. I was thinking about it, it would be kind of silly to get a new case, all new rads, a new pump, and a bunch more fans (essentially $500 worth of stuff) just for a few degrees Celsius.
> 
> Anyway, here she is!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i think it looks really good too.


----------



## Mr iggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Do you currently own the 900d? If not, you could opt for a enthoo primo, i have a 480 monsta, a 480 xt45 and a slim 360 fitted inside mine
> 
> I could go for a 60 mm instead of the 45 one but then i would loose one set of fans
> 
> If sheer rad space is what youre looking for then you could put even a fourth rad (slim 240) on the side of the primo


I still waiting for the case to come ( canada post is real good) but I want to make sure I get some advice from the pros so my watercooling loop don't get **** up.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> RMA time.


I submitted a request a person in china responded saying to send a vid but not on youtube cause it is blocked there thats why i have it on dropbox. Still waiting for a response


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I cuda seen myself doing that.....so made a last minute addition to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> I actually bot the wired version thinking to get an rpm indication on the Reeven Six Eyes .... but rpm is below threshold and sets off alarm.


Yeah think a flow meter is in order next time I redo my loop

Its annoying that my pumps RPM read out doesnt work or I would get CPU warnings, instead I have to ignore the CPU read out altogether or it wont boot


----------



## royce5950

I have two 240mm rads in my case, one front and one top. With the intake fans being on the outside pushing in on tthe front rad and the top rad having fans inside the case pushing out, would it be a good idea to include a bottom case fan pushing up to neutralize the air in the case since the only air in the case will be circulating through the front radiator first? By theway there is a exhaust fan in the rear, thank you all.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Its annoying that my pumps RPM read out doesnt work or I would get CPU warnings, instead I have to ignore the CPU read out altogether or it wont boot


Bummer .... 1st time in years I didn't have to wrestle with the not enough rpm on CPU fan on initial boot ..... with the old Intel stock setting as default and big ass low rom fans on the cooler. Witha 4500 rpm pumo no worries about min speed









Any dead spots ? Usually can mount a fan on back of HD cages or use a "SpotCool" if ya worried about anything.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Bummer .... 1st time in years I didn't have to wrestle with the not enough rpm on CPU fan on initial boot ..... with the old Intel stock setting as default and big ass low rom fans on the cooler. Witha 4500 rpm pumo no worries about min speed


It could be coz I have the XSPC D5 Vario Pump so its just n RPM monitor or something, but yeah my mobo doesnt read anything from it so I just have my bios ignore the CPU, there nothing even plugged into it anymore


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I've taken a different approach to my "lightbox"... Currently awaiting for all of my hardware from several different sources, so I can get started on plumbing it.
> 
> Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1430680/build-log-the-liquidator-caselabs-st10/0_70#post_21565631
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Kinda reminds me of this.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> How many of you with fill ports have them in plain sight on your PCs? ...I was thinking to drill a hole on the top panel of my case and install a fill port (same color as the case) for easy access, but I'm not sure if it'll look aesthetically pleasing. I wouldn't imagine that I'd use the fill port frequently since I'm usually on top of maintaining my coolant levels, but it's also a convenient way to fill the reservoir... so there lies my dilemma.


I've done the same. I have a bay res that fills both slots of my PC, so that was the only option I had. Here's a pic of it. The hole I drilled was for another fill port I had, but then I decided I didn't like the look. So, I went with a Bitspower extension and a Monsoon plug to match the color of my fittings. That's why I have the grommet there, to slim down the hole.


----------



## kickmic

ye ol' FT02 - still love this case
wanted PWM fans all round, and the 180mm fan bracket has mounting holes for 120mm - so have a 140mm Phanteks (with 120 mounting holes)


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I finally got my last rad today. I was excited to get it all finished. Here's the final product! I know I'm probably biased because it's my handy work but I think it looks really good. I might hold on to the Arc Midi for a few months now instead of upsizing. Then next time I rebuild in a bigger case hopefully there will be new mobo's, CPUs, GPUs, etc. to do a completely new build with. I was thinking about it, it would be kind of silly to get a new case, all new rads, a new pump, and a bunch more fans (essentially $500 worth of stuff) just for a few degrees Celsius.
> 
> Anyway, here she is!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Simply beautiful. The blue coolant really makes all those yellow accents pop. Next order of business is to sleeve those cables!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Simply beautiful. The blue coolant really makes all those yellow accents pop. Next order of business is to sleeve those cables!


Thanks! I'm trying to find all the tools I need to make my own extensions. I was thinking a mix of black, yellow, and dark grey but I can't seem to find all the tools I need. Not all in one place anyway. If anyone is reading this and knows what all I would need to make my own MOLEX, 6pin PCIe, 8pin PCIe, 8pin EPS, and 24pin Mobo extensions and wouldn't mind helping me via PM I would be forever in your debt!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Thanks! I'm trying to find all the tools I need to make my own extensions. I was thinking a mix of black, yellow, and dark grey but I can't seem to find all the tools I need. Not all in one place anyway. If anyone is reading this and knows what all I would need to make my own MOLEX, 6pin PCIe, 8pin PCIe, 8pin EPS, and 24pin Mobo extensions and wouldn't mind helping me via PM I would be forever in your debt!


BAM!
All the tools you need. He also sells pins, plugs, wire, and sleeve. Basically it's your one stop sleeving shop


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kickmic*
> 
> ye ol' FT02 - still love this case
> wanted PWM fans all round, and the 180mm fan bracket has mounting holes for 120mm - so have a 140mm Phanteks (with 120 mounting holes)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is such a cool looking rig! LOVE it!









Btw, cheers from a fellow Silverstone owner!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I had planned on using the BPs ..... but once things got here, there was room under the top fan grille to expose the rad top ports ..... so I just popped two 30mm BP extensions on w/ pluigs and out the fan grill back on to cover them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My god you're a genius I didn't even THINK of that LOL...


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> That is so awesome, thank you +rep. I wanted to use whichever was wider and so this helps a lot. Frozencpu should update there picture because your picture of the alphacool one looks so much different then theres. The finish is much cleaner than I thought.
> 
> Sorry I can't figure out how to remove all the extra replies within the quote. I tried it but it messed everything up.


Just hit the "Preferences" button at the top of the thread, and hit "Yes" for "Remove Nested Quotes in Replies". Or just use a massive spoiler.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr iggy*
> 
> Will two 480 Monsta and one 240 Monsta rads fit in a 900d build?


you CAN fit a 480 up top, but it's going to be motherboard dependent as to if it will fit. Iv'e seen a few people do it. The problem with Monsta's is that you NEED to use push/pull to get proper functionality out of them. If you are not going to push pull, then you are much better off going with UT60.

I currently have a 60mm in the top of my 900D in push pull. It's sitting about 1mm above my Riv:Black Edition motherboard. So, if you could handle having fans sticking out of the top of your case it's highly possible it will fit. It just comes down to the size of the VRM heatsink on your motherboard.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> It could be coz I have the XSPC D5 Vario Pump so its just n RPM monitor or something, but yeah my mobo doesnt read anything from it so I just have my bios ignore the CPU, there nothing even plugged into it anymore


Have you tried putting the pump RPM on a sys fan header? Maybe the PWM nature of the CPU fan header is screwing up the readout somehow (even though it shouldn't matter). I've got an EK D5 Vario, which should be the same pump, and I get RPM on the sys fan header.


----------



## Anti Hero

Hey guys just found this thread, here's my submission









PC Specs:

Case - Corsair 750D
Mobo - MSI z87 GD65 Gaming Edition
Cpu - 4670K @ 4.5ghz
Ram - 16gb Corsair XMS3 ddr3
Gpu - Asus GeForce gtx 670 direct cu2 x2
Psu - Corsair AX850
Storage - Corsair Force 128gb OS SSD,Samsung 840 256gb SSD, WD Caviar Black 2tb, Iomega 1tb external
Fan Controller - NZXT Sentry LX

Custom Liquid Cooling Loop:

Cpu - EK Supremacy Universal Cpu Cooling Block
Gpu - EK GeForce 670 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block x2
Pump/Reservoir - EK DDC X-RES Top 100 w/ 3.25 DDC Pump
SLI Bridge - EK FC Bridge Dual Parallel CSQ
Radiators - EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 240 XTX Series x2
Flow Meter - Koolance Adapter Display w/ Koolance INS-FM17N Coolant Flow Meter

Fans - Corsair SP 120 performance x6 on radiators
Corsair AF 140 performance x1 case exhaust

Lighting - Logisys 12" RGB adjustable led strips w/ remote x3

Peripherals:

Monitor - ASUS Vn247 and Vs247 as secondary. Stacked configuration.

Keyboard - Razer Blackwidow 2013
Mouse - Razer Deathadder
Mouse Pad - Mionix Propus 380
Headset - Astro A50

Pics-


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Hey guys just found this thread, here's my submission
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PC Specs:
> 
> Case - Corsair 750D
> Mobo - MSI z87 GD65 Gaming Edition
> Cpu - 4670K @ 4.5ghz
> Ram - 16gb Corsair XMS3 ddr3
> Gpu - Asus GeForce gtx 670 direct cu2 x2
> Psu - Corsair AX850
> Storage - Corsair Force 128gb OS SSD,Samsung 840 256gb SSD, WD Caviar Black 2tb, Iomega 1tb external
> Fan Controller - NZXT Sentry LX
> 
> Custom Liquid Cooling Loop:
> 
> Cpu - EK Supremacy Universal Cpu Cooling Block
> Gpu - EK GeForce 670 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block x2
> Pump/Reservoir - EK DDC X-RES Top 100 w/ 3.25 DDC Pump
> SLI Bridge - EK FC Bridge Dual Parallel CSQ
> Radiators - EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 240 XTX Series x2
> Flow Meter - Koolance Adapter Display w/ Koolance INS-FM17N Coolant Flow Meter
> 
> Fans - Corsair SP 120 performance x6 on radiators
> Corsair AF 140 performance x1 case exhaust
> 
> Lighting - Logisys 12" RGB adjustable led strips w/ remote x3
> 
> Peripherals:
> 
> Monitor - ASUS Vn247 and Vs247 as secondary. Stacked configuration.
> 
> Keyboard - Razer Blackwidow 2013
> Mouse - Razer Deathadder
> Mouse Pad - Mionix Propus 380
> Headset - Astro A50
> 
> Pics-
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How are your temps since you are only using HALF of each of your radiators with the tubing set up that way? Those single ports on the end are for bleeding air/draining only, by design.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> How are your temps since you are only using HALF of each of your radiators with the tubing set up that way? Those single ports on the end are for bleeding air/draining only, by design.


using half of the front mount. The cards barely hit the low 40s over clocked and the cpu barely hits 50s @4.5. It was form or function on the front rad. If it was bad temp wise I was planning on flipping it the correct way around.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> using half of the front mount. The cards barely hit the low 40s over clocked and the cpu barely hits 50s @4.5. It was form or function on the front rad. If it was bad temp wise I was planning on flipping it the correct way around.


I don't think you understood my previous post.

On both of your radiators, not just the front one, you have used the one end single drain/bleed port on each of them as part of your loop, which means you are literally only using 1/2 of each radiators cooling capabilities. The inlet and outlet port on those radiators are on the same side, that end port is not meant to be a functioning flow port. I'm assuming you did that because you wanted to run your tubes the way you did, but you should have gotten crossflow radiators if that's the case.


----------



## brandon6199

Currently leak testing... but here are some pics


----------



## Belial

To anyone with an alphacool fuzion reservoir - can you remove those short 50mm led tublets? And can you remove that big inner tube, so as to use the reservoir as just like a normal reservoir with no light in it?

This is the only reservoir ~300-380mm in size so I'm interested in it, but it doesn't seem to be that good of a res compared to the EK or Bitspower ones and it's awfully expensive for lacking side ports and a better build to it.


----------



## LostKauz

Here is my brothers, built by myself (he is not a member sadly)..
with that said im not wishing to enter this club myself obviously just wanting to share this with you all.


----------



## Belial

that's a real nice job you did there.


----------



## Belial

Would this loop be okay, as long as I filled it with the water level _above_ the pump? Air wont get into the pump, right?

It's either this, or I buy a reservoir I don't want ;/








I could use a splash tube if that'd help.


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Would this loop be okay, as long as I filled it with the water level _above_ the pump? Air wont get into the pump, right?
> 
> It's either this, or I buy a reservoir I don't want ;/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could use a splash tube if that'd help.






I think you want the pump inlet to be below the water line so that gravity doesn't let it run dry. The pump won't be able to pull water from that when you initially fill.

edit: Having the pump at the very top of the loop is asking for trouble I think. Maybe someone will chimmy in with their experience, but any air in that loop will end up at the pump.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostKauz*
> 
> Here is my brothers, built by myself (he is not a member sadly)..
> with that said im not wishing to enter this club myself obviously just wanting to share this with you all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks pretty good. What is the make on the top radiator? And where is the second tube to that top radiator, I see the one tube by the CPU going to the radiator, but where is the other one?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Would this loop be okay, as long as I filled it with the water level _above_ the pump? Air wont get into the pump, right?
> 
> It's either this, or I buy a reservoir I don't want ;/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could use a splash tube if that'd help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you want the pump inlet to be below the water line so that gravity doesn't let it run dry. The pump won't be able to pull water from that when you initially fill.
Click to expand...

Yes, but what if I fill and bleed it with the reservoir raised so the water line is above the pump? Then I just drop it once it's all sealed up.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Yes, but what if I fill and bleed it with the reservoir raised so the water line is above the pump? Then I just drop it once it's all sealed up.


That could work although it certainly isn't ideal. If it's possible to lower the pump at all I would certainly consider it. The loop would have to be fully bled as well, as air pockets working there way up there would be a worry I think.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Yes, but what if I fill and bleed it with the reservoir raised so the water line is above the pump? Then I just drop it once it's all sealed up.


As long as the res inlet/outlet are on the bottom of the res (not the top like your picture shows) I think you'd be fine once you got it filled. Any air bubbles should still accumulate in the res.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> As long as the res inlet/outlet are on the bottom of the res (not the top like your picture shows) I think you'd be fine once you got it filled. Any air bubbles should still accumulate in the res.


I think @Belial wanted to go from the top, in which case and internal tube would be needed if it were to work.

edit: in any case, I would wait for a few more opinions or open a new thread before buying anything.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Would this loop be okay, as long as I filled it with the water level _above_ the pump? Air wont get into the pump, right?
> 
> It's either this, or I buy a reservoir I don't want ;/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could use a splash tube if that'd help.


It would work if the pump was primed properly first.

I would hesitate to recommend this tho,it would unnecessarily awkward.


----------



## stickg1

The problem is his pump is the integrated pump on a Corsair AIO cooler. Might work, might not, but if it doesn't, I got a good deal for ya on a MCP355 and Koolance CPU360









Daddy needs PWM control and the 380i


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I finally got my last rad today. I was excited to get it all finished. Here's the final product! I know I'm probably biased because it's my handy work but I think it looks really good. I might hold on to the Arc Midi for a few months now instead of upsizing. Then next time I rebuild in a bigger case hopefully there will be new mobo's, CPUs, GPUs, etc. to do a completely new build with. I was thinking about it, it would be kind of silly to get a new case, all new rads, a new pump, and a bunch more fans (essentially $500 worth of stuff) just for a few degrees Celsius.
> 
> Anyway, here she is!


Is that mayhems blue dye and distilled? I used that and it turned out just the same and I really dig it with the yellow in your build. The flow of your tube routing really looks pleasing to my eye. Well done sir!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Hey guys just found this thread, here's my submission


I have the same mobo and I LOVE the accent of the badge on the SLI water bridge. Are you planning on doing sleeved cables? It would really add to an already lovely build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostKauz*
> 
> Here is my brothers, built by myself (he is not a member sadly)..
> with that said im not wishing to enter this club myself obviously just wanting to share this with you all.


Your colour matching is superb. The white RAM is what made me notice the level of attention to detail. Awesome build!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Is that mayhems blue dye and distilled? I used that and it turned out just the same and I really dig it with the yellow in your build. The flow of your tube routing really looks pleasing to my eye. Well done sir!


Yeah it's mayhem ocean blue. Just about 6 drops in about 24oz of distilled. I'm going to get some X1 coolant because I need corrosion protection, I've seen too many problems with nickel plating and copper so I'm a bit paranoid.

Thanks for the comment on the tubing. While I only needed about 3ft I used about 7ft getting the precise lengths and runs that I thought looked the best. It's funny how a piece of tubing being 1/8" too long or short can become an eyesore.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> I have the same mobo and I LOVE the accent of the badge on the SLI water bridge. Are you planning on doing sleeved cables? It would really add to an already lovely build.


Thank you! I sat there looking at the build trying to figure out if I wanted to put the badge in there or not and my wife says why not on the thing that connects the video cards lol. So I stuck it on and was quite happy with it. I do have sleeving planned but I'm going in for back surgery soon and I'm not really supposed to do and bending or lifting so I'll be sleeving after I heal up. Thanks again


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostKauz*
> 
> Here is my brothers, built by myself (he is not a member sadly)..
> with that said im not wishing to enter this club myself obviously just wanting to share this with you all.


Looks awesome! What paint did you use for the ram? It looks like it might go well in my build


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I don't think you understood my previous post.
> 
> On both of your radiators, not just the front one, you have used the one end single drain/bleed port on each of them as part of your loop, which means you are literally only using 1/2 of each radiators cooling capabilities. The inlet and outlet port on those radiators are on the same side, that end port is not meant to be a functioning flow port. I'm assuming you did that because you wanted to run your tubes the way you did, but you should have gotten crossflow radiators if that's the case.


Oh, I wasn't aware of that. I had asked someone working at frozen cpu when I was corresponding with them about something else and got a different answer. Good to know that if i need it I can get another 50% worth of cooling









I knew that the front mounted rad was that way but unaware of the top. Thanks for pointing it out.

Edit- Damn i'm getting really good temps for only using half of my cooling potential. Kind of curious what i'd get with it set up correctly...


----------



## skupples

s.p.o.i.l.e.r.


----------



## morencyam

Holy crap triple post. @Anti Hero edit your previous posts instead of posting three times back to back to back


----------



## khemist

Cpu only loop at the minute.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Holy crap triple post. @Anti Hero edit your previous posts instead of posting three times back to back to back


I'm addressing three different issues. What does it matter? It's not like i quoted a ton of pics or have a giant wall of text...


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mr iggy*
> 
> Will two 480 Monsta and one 240 Monsta rads fit in a 900d build?
> 
> 
> 
> you CAN fit a 480 up top, but it's going to be motherboard dependent as to if it will fit. Iv'e seen a few people do it. The problem with Monsta's is that you NEED to use push/pull to get proper functionality out of them. If you are not going to push pull, then you are much better off going with UT60.
> 
> I currently have a 60mm in the top of my 900D in push pull. It's sitting about 1mm above my Riv:Black Edition motherboard. So, if you could handle having fans sticking out of the top of your case it's highly possible it will fit. It just comes down to the size of the VRM heatsink on your motherboard.
Click to expand...

You can fit a Monsta on the top of your 900D just takes patience. I dont agree with the push pull statement you just need fans that run faster than 1300rpm in push. I have good temps on my build.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> I'm addressing three different issues. What does it matter? It's not like i quoted a ton of pics or have a giant wall of text...


Because it's still three posts in a row. You can edit the posts and still address the different issues. Just leave a few lines between each quote. Look at Ice Reign's post a couple posts before you. He commented on three different posts but didn't make three separate posts. It's just proper etiquette.

Nice build _REAPER_. I like the minimal tubing. And that SLI bridge is awesome! Where can I get one?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> I'm addressing three different issues. What does it matter? It's not like i quoted a ton of pics or have a giant wall of text...
> 
> 
> 
> Because it's still three posts in a row. You can edit the posts and still address the different issues. Just leave a few lines between each quote. Look at Ice Reign's post a couple posts before you. He commented on three different posts but didn't make three separate posts. It's just proper etiquette.
> 
> Nice build _REAPER_. I like the minimal tubing. And that SLI bridge is awesome! Where can I get one?
Click to expand...

Thanks about the comments on the build, Frozencpu has the SLI Bridge


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Because it's still three posts in a row. You can edit the posts and still address the different issues. Just leave a few lines between each quote. Look at Ice Reign's post a couple posts before you. He commented on three different posts but didn't make three separate posts. It's just proper etiquette.
> 
> Nice build _REAPER_. I like the minimal tubing. And that SLI bridge is awesome! Where can I get one?


Yes I know how multi quote works but didn't see the other posts until after my reply. I've never heard of three replies in a row being an issue on any other forums. And don't see why it would bother anyone. It's not like there's a limited amount of posts to be had in a thread and I just used up three of them. It's odd to me that it would bother someone enough to have to make a post about it but I guess I'll keep that in mind for next time.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Afraid not, You can fit in 1 480 Monsta in the bottom but not in the top. You also will be unable to fit in that 240 Monsta up front or in the bottom if you have another monsta on the other side.


480 Monsta does fit on top of a 900D


----------



## VSG

The monsta is 86 mm thick and a standard fan on top or bottom would take up 111 mm of space. Depending on your motherboard, that may not work since there is about 110 mm of space from the top to when you potentially hit the motherboard. I was not able to fit it in with my Asus M6F for example, so that's why I didn't recommend it for all instances.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cpu only loop at the minute.
Click to expand...

I LOVE this build


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah a monsta will fit in the top of a 900D, but only with one set of fans unless you want to add fans on top of the case. You could go with a monsta up top in just push or pull, but seeing as push-pull gives you a 20%~30% increase in cooling performance over the same fans/rpms in just push or pull, you would get a _lot_ better cooling results from a 60mm rad in push-pull over a monsta in only push or pull, which is all I gather skupples was saying.

Then again, if you're already overkill on raddage with 480s top and bottom to where temps aren't going to be all that affected either way in any case and just would rather have an 85mm monsta up there than a 60mm rad, then nothing wrong with that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Holy crap triple post. @Anti Hero edit your previous posts instead of posting three times back to back to back
> 
> 
> 
> I'm addressing three different issues. What does it matter? It's not like i quoted a ton of pics or have a giant wall of text...
Click to expand...

Please edit your previous posts,this,along with spoilering quoted pics,is a hard and fast rule of this thread.
NASzi,this applies to you too.

Thank you for your compliance.


----------



## derickwm

Nice one Anti Hero :thumb: makes me want a 750D.


----------



## VSG

Get it, you know you want one!


----------



## stickg1

Bulk heads and acrylic sheets with LED backlighting look sweet. Time to take my build back to the work shop!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The monsta is 86 mm thick and a standard fan on top or bottom would take up 111 mm of space. Depending on your motherboard, that may not work since there is about 110 mm of space from the top to when you potentially hit the motherboard. I was not able to fit it in with my Asus M6F for example, so that's why I didn't recommend it for all instances.


It is a pretty safe to say that 99% of mobos will fit with a 900D and a Monsta you just have to have the patience and ability to get it to fit.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kickmic*
> 
> ye ol' FT02 - still love this case
> wanted PWM fans all round, and the 180mm fan bracket has mounting holes for 120mm - so have a 140mm Phanteks (with 120 mounting holes)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER


Have you considered using a 3x180mm radiator?


----------



## rickyman0319

how do I put 655 pump into EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir ?

what do I need to buy in order to work?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Looks like you got lost in the sea of posts.Not familiar with the 600D but do you have all your drive bays in still,or are you planning on removing any?I would think you could fit a nice tube res in there and secure it to the drive bay cage which I've see here before.
> 
> Or something like this....
> 
> 
> I know you have a different pump and top,but a good idea I might say


Thanks for the idea.

Problem is I did change the front fan to a 25mm one(compared to the 20mm stock fan.
Thicker fan wont fit with the drive bays on it's default place, so I took one out and put the other one in front of the psu.

This is not my case, but the drive cage placement and fan are similar:


I will wait until I receive my pump and then decide how I am wanting to fit things.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> That is so awesome, thank you +rep. I wanted to use whichever was wider and so this helps a lot. Frozencpu should update there picture because your picture of the alphacool one looks so much different then theres. The finish is much cleaner than I thought.
> 
> Sorry I can't figure out how to remove all the extra replies within the quote. I tried it but it messed everything up.


Beter than 20 images.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I finally got my last rad today. I was excited to get it all finished. Here's the final product! I know I'm probably biased because it's my handy work but I think it looks really good. I might hold on to the Arc Midi for a few months now instead of upsizing. Then next time I rebuild in a bigger case hopefully there will be new mobo's, CPUs, GPUs, etc. to do a completely new build with. I was thinking about it, it would be kind of silly to get a new case, all new rads, a new pump, and a bunch more fans (essentially $500 worth of stuff) just for a few degrees Celsius.
> 
> Anyway, here she is!


I like. Not usually a fan of yellow either. I don't think I could drive a yellow car even if it were a Lotus.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> I'm addressing three different issues. What does it matter? It's not like i quoted a ton of pics or have a giant wall of text...


Number of issues addressed is totally irrelevant and it matters because this thread gets 10-20 pages a day as it is and besides it's simply good forum etiquette. I am surprised you never ran into this at other places too but regardless no need to get so defensive.


----------



## Anti Hero

Wo, thanks to the guys at ek for posting my build on their facebook!


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Number of issues addressed is totally irrelevant and it matters because this thread gets 10-20 pages a day as it is and besides it's simply good forum etiquette. I am surprised you never ran into this at other places too but regardless no need to get so defensive.


Didn't mean to come off defensive at all. I said i'd keep it in mind for next time. Meaning i'll multi quote from here on out at ocn


----------



## kickmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Have you considered using a 3x180mm radiator?


yes, didn't want to mod the case. Actually tried an Alphacool 2 x 180 but it wouldn't fit without case mods.
The 360 is actually plenty of rad plus there is a better range of 120m fans over 180mm fans. The 120 rad is just in there for aesthetics as I really like how it fits perfectly at the top of the case - but in all honesty it did nothing as far as improving temps over just the 360 on its own.
The FT02 comes with brackets to mount a 120mm rad to 180mm fans - I inverted them and was able to line them up with existing holes in the case to secure the 360... which you need to do when using the Koolance res because bleeding that thing requires putting the case on its back


----------



## derickwm

No problem. What's your studio setup like and what camera gear?


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No problem. What's your studio setup like and what camera gear?


My studio is my living room lol. It's all natural light. With those photos I was actually fighting too much sun light the whole time. the camera is a Sony a57 and I used my 55-200 4-5.6 lens with iso set to 100. It's long for that kind of shooting but had the filter on it that I wanted to use. I'm no photographer, it's all the camera that made them look good. Thanks again for posting it on your Facebook. Makes me feel good to have my work appreciated


----------



## MedRed

I've been away for the most part since I finished my last WC build in 2010. In preparation of my next build, I decided to catch up on this thread. My last post was somewhere around page 25. Over a week later, I'm finally caught up! I noticed that kevingreenbmx went MIA. What happened to him?


----------



## kickmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That is such a cool looking rig! LOVE it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, cheers from a fellow Silverstone owner!


yay! Silverstone owner!! I was totally bummed with the latest Raven and FT04.... what tha? Silverstone has been the best quality of the cases I own and while it took me a long time to get used to, I really like the 90 degree mobo... great for heavy GPU's with water blocks attached


----------



## Belial

On the reservoir below the pump level:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Would this loop be okay, as long as I filled it with the water level _above_ the pump? Air wont get into the pump, right?
> 
> It's either this, or I buy a reservoir I don't want ;/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could use a splash tube if that'd help.
> 
> 
> 
> It would work if the pump was primed properly first.
> 
> I would hesitate to recommend this tho,it would unnecessarily awkward.
Click to expand...





I can add internal tubes. I'd put a barb on the inside and just a length of tubing down. This is kind of what I'm going for:



Inlet at the top, outlet at the top (with the aid of an internal tube). I should have added the internal tube to the outlet in that first picture.


----------



## morencyam

The internal tube really won't aid water leaving the reservoir. The pump doesn't "suck" water into the pump. It has to be fed into the pump. So the water in that internal tube would only go as high as the rest of the water in the res. But as BNeg said, if the pump was properly primed it might work. But there would have to be no air in the res at all, which would force water out of the res as water enters.


----------



## stickg1

Belial this will only work if the res, rads, and tubing are 100% full of liquid. Even if you get it up and running at first, the second you turn the pump off it will create an air bubble requiring it to primed all over again.

It's one thing to want to mod your CLC and its a cool idea but you're trying to fight the laws of physics and its a battle you will likely lose.

The only solution I see is getting the entire res up above the pump or adding a pump to the loop below the res that can be gravity fed.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No problem. What's your studio setup like and what camera gear?
> 
> 
> 
> My studio is my living room lol. It's all natural light. With those photos I was actually fighting too much sun light the whole time. the camera is a Sony a57 and I used my 55-200 4-5.6 lens with iso set to 100. It's long for that kind of shooting but had the filter on it that I wanted to use. I'm no photographer, it's all the camera that made them look good. Thanks again for posting it on your Facebook. Makes me feel good to have my work appreciated
Click to expand...

No problem. What's your studio setup like and what camera gear?

Oh wow that must be some natural lighting. Well done


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Belial this will only work if the res, rads, and tubing are 100% full of liquid. Even if you get it up and running at first, the second you turn the pump off it will create an air bubble requiring it to primed all over again.
> 
> It's one thing to want to mod your CLC and its a cool idea but you're trying to fight the laws of physics and its a battle you will likely lose.
> 
> The only solution I see is getting the entire res up above the pump or adding a pump to the loop below the res that can be gravity fed.


This.

What about putting the reservoir horizontally above the motherboard. Have the inlet from the radiator on one side and the outlet to the pump on the other side. That would work without any problems then.

Even just adding a small Swiftech Microres somewhere above the pump just there to feed the pump would work better. Then you can still have the tube res next to the motherboard for aesthetics.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No problem. What's your studio setup like and what camera gear?
> 
> Oh wow that must be some natural lighting. Well done


Thanks, yeah there's a lot of windows in our living room so I get a hell of a lot of light. And like I said, sometimes too much. I was having my wife run around and open and close blinds as I was taking different pictures lol. They would have turned out better with a bit of an overcast day but i'm pretty happy with the way they came out. Now i just need to learn how to edit photos so I can remove some of the glare and bright spots.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Strange..I can only see this thread if I run in a private window otherwise I get Bad Request errors or server timeouts..

Shenanigans?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Strange..I can only see this thread if I run in a private window otherwise I get Bad Request errors or server timeouts..
> 
> Shenanigans?


No problems down here...


----------



## joejoe69

Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.


----------



## VSG

That is absolutely beautiful, the bottom looks like a pool of coolant


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well now I _am_ a fan of blue...and wow that is a gorgeous build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Didn't mean to come off defensive at all. I said i'd keep it in mind for next time. Meaning i'll multi quote from here on out at ocn


Right on (except you did it again with that post lol)









Multi can be a pain at times but its also the only way to effectively reply to many things especially some of which may be ten pages back. And we save space on signatures and what not when folks don't double and triple...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quality bend work there,Im liking the midplate with the invisible pass thrus.

A quality rig all round.

Dunno about the case tho.....


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quality bend work there,Im liking the midplate with the invisible pass thrus.
> 
> A quality rig all round.


Much thanks B Neg!!


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well now I _am_ a fan of blue...and wow that is a gorgeous build.
> Right on (except you did it again with that post lol)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Multi can be a pain at times but its also the only way to effectively reply to many things especially some of which may be ten pages back. And we save space on signatures and what not when folks don't double and triple...


You posted after I had made my post bout them putting my build up. Its all good, not worried about it. When I reply to multiple posts i'll multiquote.

Edit- err actually you didn't

But we are wasting more thread by continuing to talk about it lol


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That is absolutely beautiful, the bottom looks like a pool of coolant


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well now I _am_ a fan of blue...and wow that is a gorgeous build.


Thanks guys!!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy mother.....








I can't stop staring. Please tell me there is a build log somewhere.


----------



## Gabrielzm

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="joejoe69" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/58660#post_21582597"]Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.

][/quot



Yep, beautiful build. Still trying to figure out how you manage that pool effect.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Wow. that's art museum worthy.


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That "pool of coolant" effect is just amazing. First Class build sir!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.


"Finished" what is this word and what does it mean? Absolutely beautiful build by the way.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah a monsta will fit in the top of a 900D, but only with one set of fans unless you want
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> to add fans on top of the case. You could go with a monsta up top in just push or pull, but seeing as push-pull gives you a 20%~30% increase in cooling performance over the same fans/rpms in just push or pull, you would get a _lot_ better cooling results from a 60mm rad in push-pull over a monsta in only push or pull, which is all I gather skupples was saying.
> 
> Then again, if you're already overkill on raddage with 480s top and bottom to where temps aren't going to be all that affected either way in any case and just would rather have an 85mm monsta up there than a 60mm rad, then nothing wrong with that.


pretty much... You have the possibility of running into multiple issues with that much rad up top. You are either going to ram into your motherboard heatsink, or you are going to impede upon the ram slots. Monsta with only one set of fans will fit just fine with most boards, but will literally leave you 1mm of room before you bash into one of the above problems. You will hit the VRM sink 5-6 mm's before you run into the ram slots depending on the motherboard. As you pointed out, if you are already hitting the diminishing returns of cooling capability with the amount of hardware in your case than it doesn't really matter, but if not, it's much better to go with a P/P 60mm rad. P/P 60mm rad will be pretty much the exact same size as a monsta with just one set of fans, & will have a higher cooling capabilities.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Holy mother.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't stop staring. Please tell me there is a build log somewhere.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> quote name="joejoe69" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/58660#post_21582597"]Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.
> 
> ][/quot
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, beautiful build. Still trying to figure out how you manage that pool effect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Wow. that's art museum worthy.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> That "pool of coolant" effect is just amazing. First Class build sir!


Thanks all. No build log yet. Just been posting here and there on FB but I have my YouTube build videos.




The "pool" effect is done by cutting a hole into the mid panel without using bulkhead fittings. Make sure the acrylic is the same color as your coolant. That's it!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> "Finished" what is this word and what does it mean? Absolutely beautiful build by the way.


Wiring, custom SLI bridge, and some special graphics still needs to be done.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks beautiful,how did you hook the pumps there?


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> looks beautiful,how did you hook the pumps there?


----------



## joejoe69

Double post.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Stupid phones. Yeah the more I look at it the more impressed I get. Hell I hadn't even noticed the "pool" when I made my first comment.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Joe, your Neptune build is fantastic! Really makes me consider going blue/white on my next project (love the Mayhems pastel berry blue)...


----------



## Gunderman456

Thanks to the good folks here, I will now join the club;





You can find more then enough info on the hardware and build in "The Hawaiian Heat Wave" log (in sig).


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just, wow. Love it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


freakin sweet.

I like how the bottom of the case matches the fluid so that it looks like it is just a giant pool


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks all. No build log yet. Just been posting here and there on FB but I have my YouTube build videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "pool" effect is done by cutting a hole into the mid panel without using bulkhead fittings. Make sure the acrylic is the same color as your coolant. That's it!!
> Wiring, custom SLI bridge, and some special graphics still needs to be done.




your coffee comment made me think of this.


----------



## cyphon

So, I am at a bit of a loss here.......

Normally, my GPUs under full load will top out at around 55C. Today, out of the blue, they went all the way up to 78C. I checked for leaks and there are none. Nothing changed in my loop. I do not hear anything abnormal. Ambients were at worst within a couple degrees of where they were in the past.

The only thing I could think of is that there was a leak or the pump was giving out, but like I said, I couldn't find any leaks nor could I hear anything different in the pump. I do not have a flow meter, so I cannot get a precise measurement on the pump.

I shut down and let it cool off back down to the 30s and then loaded them up again, and they are back up in the 70s again.

Any ideas?


----------



## derickwm

Fans?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> So, I am at a bit of a loss here.......
> 
> Normally, my GPUs under full load will top out at around 55C. Today, out of the blue, they went all the way up to 78C. I checked for leaks and there are none. Nothing changed in my loop. I do not hear anything abnormal. Ambients were at worst within a couple degrees of where they were in the past.
> 
> The only thing I could think of is that there was a leak or the pump was giving out, but like I said, I couldn't find any leaks nor could I hear anything different in the pump. I do not have a flow meter, so I cannot get a precise measurement on the pump.
> 
> I shut down and let it cool off back down to the 30s and then loaded them up again, and they are back up in the 70s again.
> 
> Any ideas?


Pump slowing down or a clog in the tubing somewhere that's reducing flow. Did the CPU temps rise? Or wait this is the build with 2 separate loops right?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Fans?


AP15s all @12V intake


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Try using speed fan to see your pump rpm, just to amke sure its running properly....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Pump slowing down or a clog in the tubing somewhere that's reducing flow. Did the CPU temps rise? Or wait this is the build with 2 separate loops right?


CPU loop is fine, just having issues on the GPU loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Try using speed fan to see your pump rpm, just to amke sure its running properly....


Good idea, I will try to hook this up


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Amazing work man!!


----------



## cyphon

Got my pump in question's tac hooked up to the MB and SpeedFan is reading the RPM @ 3668. So, the pump appears to be fine.....

Its a MCP350, which I believe is up to 3800RPM, so the 3600-3700RPM isn't far off.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*


You have quite an interesting personality my friend... I found some of the things you were saying hilarious while describing your build - like when you were telling everyone to piss off if they don't like your build. Those times gave me a few LOL moments. Overall though you have a great build. I like the simplicity of it and how you've concealed a lot of your hardware. That's the route that I'm going with my current build.


----------



## Skoobs

Hey guys, sorry to crash the party but I was wondering if anyone had a link to the most recent thread comparing all the newest waterblocks?

I remember the 2012 CPU waterblock roundup thread (which was amazing) and thought I would check if there had been another one since. I am currently running one of the original EKWB nickle plated blocks (so it is probably corroded to heck).


----------



## derickwm

I believe Stren's on ExtremeRigs is still the most up to date. Moonman over on xtremesystems does some as well for other chipsets.


----------



## Skoobs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.


can you put a miniature fog machine in the bottom? lol

that would look siiiiiick


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Got my pump in question's tac hooked up to the MB and SpeedFan is reading the RPM @ 3668. So, the pump appears to be fine.....
> 
> Its a MCP350, which I believe is up to 3800RPM, so the 3600-3700RPM isn't far off.


So the pump is fine,atleast thats ticked off....Now to figure out what else could be causing this....?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs*
> 
> can you put a miniature fog machine in the bottom? lol
> 
> that would look siiiiiick


Hahaha, until stuff started frying!


----------



## Skoobs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Hahaha, until stuff started frying!


but the pictures would be WORRRRRTH IIIIIIIT


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone recommend some good 140mm rad fans? I'm trying to plan out my build and radiators are probably going to be my first step.

I can fit a 240mm alphacool st30 in the roof as push exhaust and a monsta 240 push/pull in the front, but if I push things a little I could fit a 280 st30 in the top push exhaust and a 280 monsta push/pull in the front.

Would there be a big enough difference in heat dissipation to warrant the 280's? (higher price, less fan choices)

Would a 240 alphacool st30 and 240 monsta be good enough for highly overclocked 4770k at say 1.4v and two overclocked r9 290's?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Neptune 2.0 (NZXT Switch 810): All filled but far from finished.


Very nice my friend! Loving the blue. (I'm partial myself







)


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> your coffee comment made me think of this.


I was certainly excited, lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing work man!!


Thanks!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> You have quite an interesting personality my friend... I found some of the things you were saying hilarious while describing your build - like when you were telling everyone to piss off if they don't like your build. Those times gave me a few LOL moments. Overall though you have a great build. I like the simplicity of it and how you've concealed a lot of your hardware. That's the route that I'm going with my current build.


Thanks!! I figure I let the trolls, PC financial advisors, and physics majors know what's up before they open their mouths about my rig. Everyone has their opinions but no one can tell me how to build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs*
> 
> can you put a miniature fog machine in the bottom? lol
> 
> that would look siiiiiick


It would be really nice but I'm afraid of the fog being somehow conductive and destroying my rig.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Very nice my friend! Loving the blue. (I'm partial myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thanks!!


----------



## stickg1

What has better cooling potential with a high RPM fan(s) like the Corsair SP120 High Performance? A 240mm ST30 rad or a 120mm UT60 rad?


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What has better cooling potential with a high RPM fan(s) like the Corsair SP120 High Performance? A 240mm ST30 rad or a 120mm UT60 rad?


depends on what you are cooling.. if you are trying to cool the water in a radiator.. then a static pressure fan.. if you are just blowing air into the case or over the mobo.. then an airflow fan... I have 2 SP120 high performance corsair fans blowing air through the H100i that I have.. with the two SP120s that came with the cooler.. they do awesome for cooling radiators.. the airflow fans and other high CFM fans.. do better for cooling the inside of the case and open parts... etc

the thicker the radiator.. the higher CFM static pressure you will need.. but can potentionally hold more water.. and be harder to cool.. the 240mm that is on the H100i cools about the same as the thick 120 radiator on the h80.. etc etc


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol, I still can't get enough of your Neptune build man! Watching all your vids right now!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> depends on what you are cooling.. if you are trying to cool the water in a radiator.. then a static pressure fan.. if you are just blowing air into the case or over the mobo.. then an airflow fan... I have 2 SP120 high performance corsair fans blowing air through the H100i that I have.. with the two SP120s that came with the cooler.. they do awesome for cooling radiators.. the airflow fans and other high CFM fans.. do better for cooling the inside of the case and open parts... etc
> 
> the thicker the radiator.. the higher CFM static pressure you will need.. but can potentionally hold more water.. and be harder to cool.. the 240mm that is on the H100i cools about the same as the thick 120 radiator on the h80.. etc etc


Thanks for the reply.

I have the fans already, I'm planning on buying a new radiator. I can fit either a thin 240mm or a thick 120mm radiator. What would be better, one 240mm ST30 or one 120mm UT60?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> I have the fans already, I'm planning on buying a new radiator. I can fit either a thin 240mm or a thick 120mm radiator. What would be better, one 240mm ST30 or one 120mm UT60?


A thin 240 would definitely be better than a thick 120.


----------



## Plutonium10

I'm thinking about making an air leak testing system for my rig but ideally I would like it to be permanently integrated into the loop, maybe by just having a schrader fill valve on the res and a small pressure gauge somewhere in the loop. Does anyone know where I might be able to find either of these things with G1/4 threads? I could always use 1/4 NPT adapters but would rather not.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, I still can't get enough of your Neptune build man! Watching all your vids right now!


 I'll be working on the last vid as soon as I get the rig up and running. Lately I've been using the wife's Dell laptop with an old dual core processor that takes an average of 45 minutes to an hour to render my videos, lol.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Everyone has their opinions but no one can tell me how to build.


Haha well seems everyone here at least is saying keep building exactly how you do..









Ok now someone Photoshop some wicked fog into that thing.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Haha well seems everyone here at least is saying keep building exactly how you do..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now someone Photoshop some wicked fog into that thing.


I guess I'm doing something right, lol. But in the great world of YouTube, everyone is smarter and knows better than you.

I'd like to see that smoke, it'll probably look sick haha!!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Belial this will only work if the res, rads, and tubing are 100% full of liquid. Even if you get it up and running at first, the second you turn the pump off it will create an air bubble requiring it to primed all over again.
> 
> It's one thing to want to mod your CLC and its a cool idea but you're trying to fight the laws of physics and its a battle you will likely lose.
> 
> The only solution I see is getting the entire res up above the pump or adding a pump to the loop below the res that can be gravity fed.


Yea, I think I'm leaning towards the 270ml bitspower so gravity is pushing fluid on the pump.

But to entertain the idea (i'm still not 100% on the bp res after all), I do understand what you mean about how air will get back into the pump, _unless the air is trapped at the top of the res._ So take that picture I supplied. Now, 'normally', if those inlet/outlets I have depicted were at the absolute top of the res, yes, as soon as I stopped operation, the air would float back up toward the higher pump/block. However, because the inlet/outlet is below the water level (especially with a splash tube on the outlet), the water is sort of trapped in the top of the reservoir.



So the only way for air to go up into the pump and highest point in the loop, would be if like I shook the case around and tipped it around, allowing that air to get into those outlets (if it sucked into the inlet I don't think that's a big deal because it'd just go backwards into the res and just end up being pushed back into the res upon operation and never go through the pump/block). Of course, filling/bleeding like this would be difficult, air might go from one tube right up the other and get stuck in the high point, but that is why this particular loop set-up would be filled/bled with the reservoir temporarily raised with the water level above the pump.

Finally, is 100% fill possible? Couldn't I fill it so high, and then have it so when I screw back in the port that I filled from at the top of the res, water kind of gushes out? Or would that be 99.99% fill, in which case even that little air would be okay?

Thanks for entertaining these ideas. More options = better finished product. Literally for the last 3 weeks I just go home after work, take a 3 foot length of tygon tubing that I have, and suck up water from the sink and imitate all sorts of different loop orders and water levels. I pretend I'm a pump or reservoir.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

If anyone in the US has ordered directly from EKWB, how long does it usually take for them to process an order? I placed an order on the 9th for my R4BE nickel blocks, and the status still says "processing".


----------



## derickwm

It can vary mostly due to product availability and the amount of orders we have. PM me your order number and I'll try and find out an ETA for you if you'd like.


----------



## sebkow

Hi guys im going to be adding a 360 push pull rad at the top of my build



does this air flow make sense?
Also should the outtake have filters on them or just intake?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Hi guys im going to be adding a 360 push pull rad at the top of my build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does this air flow make sense?
> Also should the outtake have filters on them or just intake?


Honestly, to me that makes the case negative pressure, I would make the front and top intakes were that my build. That case has enough open venting to allow there to be great airflow with that setup and not allow a ton of dust like it would in a negative pressure setup.

And no, the exhausts don't need filters.


----------



## Killa Cam

has anyone seen the new xspc rx series rads? sidewinder has them for preorder here. its stating that it has superior performance than its previous versions and has more ports for versatility, i thought these were going to be discontinued but i am glad that its not. i always wanted to try these rads.


----------



## skupples

So, what are peoples opinions on periods of time with the system off? I leave my tower off while i'm @ work & sleeping as it decreases the power bill ~1$ a day, which doesn't sound like much, but it adds up.

(this is obviously in regards to block degradation & what not, with all copper system)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I turn my system off whenever I'm not going to be around it for a while as well just to guard against any calamities that may occur during my absence (such as leak)...


----------



## fast_fate

Hey guys,
Seeking info about o'rings for our beloved fittings - 10 x 14 acrylic compressions to be precise.
I've found the size I need, 17mm OD x 2mm thickness.

Just which type to get I need to make up my mind on









What I would like to know is the difference that silicone vs rubber o'rings will make - apart from cost.
silicone seems a logical choice as less likely to fail due to dryness/cracking.

I'm also seeing Viton in the size I need - any advantage in these much more expensive o'rings ??


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> I'm thinking about making an air leak testing system for my rig but ideally I would like it to be permanently integrated into the loop, maybe by just having a schrader fill valve on the res and a small pressure gauge somewhere in the loop. Does anyone know where I might be able to find either of these things with G1/4 threads? I could always use 1/4 NPT adapters but would rather not.


This has already been covered in this thread by myself and again by ITDiva, you will have to back thru this thread to find it however. If ITDiva has not already done a standalone thread, I will do one later


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I turn my system off whenever I'm not going to be around it for a while as well just to guard against any calamities that may occur during my absence (such as leak)...


I left my pc running a lot more when it was air cooled. Now that its wc i turn it off whenever i sleep/leave the house.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> I left my pc running a lot more when it was air cooled. Now that its wc i turn it off whenever i sleep/leave the house.


Yeah I have always turned mine off when not using it. Even though I know it's impossible - if I leave my system running for too long by itself I always envision an exploding-fire-hydrant type situation


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm torn between turning the machine off when no one's there in case of calamity, and Martin's findings on corrosion acceleration in stagnant (not moving) water. Seems it's a bit of a lose-lose either way.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> has anyone seen the new xspc rx series rads? sidewinder has them for preorder here. its stating that it has superior performance than its previous versions and has more ports for versatility, i thought these were going to be discontinued but i am glad that its not. i always wanted to try these rads.


They seem to look and possibly perform like HWL 60mm thick rads, can't remember the name. But yeah, they look to be great performing rads. Kinda like a combination of RX thickness and EX fins.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah I have always turned mine off when not using it. Even though I know it's impossible - if I leave my system running for too long by itself I always envision an exploding-fire-hydrant type situation


I once came home to my system off and with a coolant puddle on my top GPU. Come to find out, my molex splitter connector for both my pumps were faulty and turned both pumps off. My CPU heated up, melted the IN acrylic tubing and sprung a slow leak. The system shut down safely once it hit a temp limit. After that, I always turned my system off whenever I don't need it on.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> I once came home to my system off and with a coolant puddle on my top GPU. Come to find out, my molex splitter connector for both my pumps were faulty and turned both pumps off. My CPU heated up, melted the IN acrylic tubing and sprung a slow leak. The system shut down safely once it hit a temp limit. After that, I always turned my system off whenever I don't need it on.


Oh god, that's an epic catastrophe.

BTW, your new build is absolutely fantastic looking.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Oh god, that's an epic catastrophe.
> 
> BTW, your new build is absolutely fantastic looking.


Indeed it was.

Likewise, we all can't wait for yours to be done. It's epic already, even without fluid in it yet.


----------



## SeeThruHead

I left my previous water build running 24/7 for almost 2 years.


----------



## benjamen50

I'm hoping this picture is good enough:


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I turn my system off whenever I'm not going to be around it for a while as well just to guard against any calamities that may occur during my absence (such as leak)...


Just got a few Windows 8.1 updates I like to read what all the updates do and one of the fixes said something about memory leak fix.


----------



## BradleyW

Updated images of my loop:


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> I once came home to my system off and with a coolant puddle on my top GPU. Come to find out, my molex splitter connector for both my pumps were faulty and turned both pumps off. My CPU heated up, melted the IN acrylic tubing and sprung a slow leak. The system shut down safely once it hit a temp limit. After that, I always turned my system off whenever I don't need it on.


Wow, that is epic... Although that hasn't happened to my current rig just yet, I have witnesses some strange squealing and grinding coming from my D5 pump a couple of times. Scared the hell out of me, but I got it under control. Still, I ended up buying another D5 and the same thing happened 6 months later... Turned out that I had to have a mandatory 75% water in my Alphacool pump/bay res, or it starved the pump. Duh.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> I once came home to my system off and with a coolant puddle on my top GPU. Come to find out, my molex splitter connector for both my pumps were faulty and turned both pumps off. My CPU heated up, melted the IN acrylic tubing and sprung a slow leak. The system shut down safely once it hit a temp limit. After that, I always turned my system off whenever I don't need it on.


I had a Bitspower X-Station that had the Molex that was powering my pump go bad. Luckily I was in the same room and started smelling the "heat"(like when you just open a clothes dryer after it's been running) and got it shut down before anything bad happened. Switched plugs and everything was fine after that


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah I have always turned mine off when not using it. Even though I know it's impossible - if I leave my system running for too long by itself I always envision an exploding-fire-hydrant type situation


Same here haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> I once came home to my system off and with a coolant puddle on my top GPU. Come to find out, my molex splitter connector for both my pumps were faulty and turned both pumps off. My CPU heated up, melted the IN acrylic tubing and sprung a slow leak. The system shut down safely once it hit a temp limit. After that, I always turned my system off whenever I don't need it on.


Oh god, that's my worst nightmare.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yep. When water cooling you never know what can happen or when so its just extra peace of mind to shut her down when I'm gone.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm torn between turning the machine off when no one's there in case of calamity, and Martin's findings on corrosion acceleration in stagnant (not moving) water. Seems it's a bit of a lose-lose either way.


I guess it comes down to maths. Which will happen first? Block death, or power bill rape. My power bill has gone up a good 1.50-3.00$ a day since building this system. I'm attributing it to the 3930k more than anything else since it's @ a constant 5.0. Maybe I should look into using offset instead so it can actually go into an idle state.

stagnant water is bad news. That much is obvious. (@least for some one who's had pools his hole life)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yep. When water cooling you never know what can happen or when so its just extra peace of mind to shut her down when I'm gone.


Indeed. And unless it's crunching or mining or torrenting or something like that why leave it on? It's just a waste of power and money at the very least.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Indeed. And unless it's crunching or mining or torrenting or something like that why leave it on? It's just a waste of power and money at the very least.


I'm just about to start folding again for my old team. Last time I was folding I was still on air. Kind of nervous about it but oh well. I trust my build to keep the liquid on the INSIDE of the loop lol.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Haha, that's why I have a dedicated folder!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess it comes down to maths. Which will happen first? Block death, or power bill rape. My power bill has gone up a good 1.50-3.00$ a day since building this system. I'm attributing it to the 3930k more than anything else since it's @ a constant 5.0. Maybe I should look into using offset instead so it can actually go into an idle state)


If you were paying $0.15/kwh your computer would need to be pulling 700W from the wall all day long to use $3/day. I have a 16 core lga2011 system and a GTX780Ti at 1350/3750 that run full load 24/7. Combined they still don't cost me $3/day.

I've left my watercooled computers unattended and powered on for 3 weeks at a time. I trust my build skills and hardware.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you were paying $0.15/kwh your computer would need to be pulling 700W from the wall all day long to use $3/day. I have a 16 core lga2011 system and a GTX780Ti at 1350/3750 that run full load 24/7. Combined they still don't cost me $3/day.
> 
> I've left my watercooled computers unattended and powered on for 3 weeks at a time. I trust my build skills and hardware.


What did you figure the amount was for folding per month? I'm pretty sure it was either you or knuckle that added it up and it was penny's per month i believe?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you were paying $0.15/kwh your computer would need to be pulling 700W from the wall all day long to use $3/day. I have a 16 core lga2011 system and a GTX780Ti at 1350/3750 that run full load 24/7. Combined they still don't cost me $3/day.
> 
> I've left my watercooled computers unattended and powered on for 3 weeks at a time. I trust my build skills and hardware.


It only peaks 3$ when it's been working all day. a 5.0 3930k is a massive power whore, & three titans # 1200+ @ 1.3v pull ~350-425w each on Skyn3t's vbios. It's normally usage has been ~1.50$ higher. The power company emails us daily reports, as power bills can quickly skyrocket down here in south florida with 2 AC units on a house.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

$1 a day is still hundreds a year. Like other dude said it adds up. Sure that's chump change to some, but still. Personally, I think the saved power is more important anyway.


----------



## MiiX

Guys, got any good ideas on how to get a filter behind or infront of radiator fans that is removable when installed/mounted? Thanks


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> What did you figure the amount was for folding per month? I'm pretty sure it was either you or knuckle that added it up and it was penny's per month i believe?


About $60 month to have my two rigs running full load 24/7. I spend more than that on Rockstars.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you were paying $0.15/kwh your computer would need to be pulling 700W from the wall all day long to use $3/day. I have a 16 core lga2011 system and a GTX780Ti at 1350/3750 that run full load 24/7. Combined they still don't cost me $3/day.
> 
> I've left my watercooled computers unattended and powered on for 3 weeks at a time. I trust my build skills and hardware.


Pilots trust their planes too. Doesn't mean they don't sometimes crash. I haven't had a leak in over two years but I still don't like to take unnecessary risks...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Pilots trust their planes too. Doesn't mean they don't sometimes crash. I haven't had a leak in over two years but I still don't like to take unnecessary risks...


This. The only two leaks I've ever had was from a faulty 90* rotary adapter and forgetting to put an o-ring back on an inline temperature probe. Both were caught during a leak test. But I still don't like leaving my rig running if I'm leaving the house. Especially now that I've had a pump stop running because of a faulty Molex connector while I was sitting no more than 10 feet away. So if I'm not home, the computer is off.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> About $60 month to have my two rigs running full load 24/7. I spend more than that on Rockstars.


Oh wow, I thought it was way less than that.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> They seem to look and possibly perform like HWL 60mm thick rads, can't remember the name. But yeah, they look to be great performing rads. Kinda like a combination of RX thickness and EX fins.
> I once came home to my system off and with a coolant puddle on my top GPU. Come to find out, my molex splitter connector for both my pumps were faulty and turned both pumps off. My CPU heated up, melted the IN acrylic tubing and sprung a slow leak. The system shut down safely once it hit a temp limit. After that, I always turned my system off whenever I don't need it on.


I had a similar issue happen years ago after my first attempt at water cooling. I my pump had died and before everything had a chance to shut down I sprung a leak due to the heat buildup and my GPU was drenched. Funny thing is, the card still works!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess it comes down to maths. Which will happen first? Block death, or power bill rape. My power bill has gone up a good 1.50-3.00$ a day since building this system. I'm attributing it to the 3930k more than anything else since it's @ a constant 5.0. Maybe I should look into using offset instead so it can actually go into an idle state)
> 
> 
> 
> If you were paying $0.15/kwh your computer would need to be pulling 700W from the wall all day long to use $3/day. I have a 16 core lga2011 system and a GTX780Ti at 1350/3750 that run full load 24/7. Combined they still don't cost me $3/day.
> 
> I've left my watercooled computers unattended and powered on for 3 weeks at a time. I trust my build skills and hardware.
Click to expand...

This.

Plus,the only point where damage could occur for me is if the GPU fittings sprung a leak...not likely with just water as a coolant and my confidence in my build skills.

If its gonna leak then it will do it whether you are there or not.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs*
> 
> Hey guys, sorry to crash the party but I was wondering if anyone had a link to the most recent thread comparing all the newest waterblocks?


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone recommend some good 140mm rad fans? I'm trying to plan out my build and radiators are probably going to be my first step
> 
> Would there be a big enough difference in heat dissipation to warrant the 280's? (higher price, less fan choices)
> 
> Would a 240 alphacool st30 and 240 monsta be good enough for highly overclocked 4770k at say 1.4v and two overclocked r9 290's?.


http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37600-phanteks-f140hp?showall=&start=3

Phanteks SP140 / XP 140

And yes on the 280s being worth it, ..... not so much on the Monsta tho.....check the thread here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

I have a 4770k which I had at 46 multiplier / 46 cache up until last BIOS upgrade which is sending too much voltage and twin 780s w/ 25+% OC on cre and 20+% on memory .... not quite as hot as your 290x's but close. I have an Alphacool XT45-420 on top and a UT60 on bottom w/ just (5) 1200 rpm SP140s in push. At full fan rpm, I maintain 75C under RoG Bench and GPUs are at 39C under Furmark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What has better cooling potential with a high RPM fan(s) like the Corsair SP120 High Performance? A 240mm ST30 rad or a 120mm UT60 rad?


See the spreadsheet in the radiator size estimator link above.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Finally, is 100% fill possible? Couldn't I fill it so high, and then have it so when I screw back in the port that I filled from at the top of the res, water kind of gushes out? Or would that be 99.99% fill, in which case even that little air would be okay?


No, it isn't a good idea. Your house loop .... the one for the cold water heater (yes, it's a cold water heater







.... a hot water heater would heat water that was already hot and what purpose would that serve ?) .... it has an expansion tank or pressure relieve valve as when water gets hot it expands.....on a small loop flex tubing might handle the expansion but the more liquid in system, the more this is a concern. An expansion tank is simply a tank that has trapped air in it.

http://www.fridayharbor.org/Utilities/thermal_expansion.htm
http://westank.com/expansion-tanks/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess it comes down to maths. Which will happen first? Block death, or power bill rape. My power bill has gone up a good 1.50-3.00$ a day since building this system. I'm attributing it to the 3930k more than anything else since it's @ a constant 5.0. Maybe I should look into using offset instead so it can actually go into an idle state.


At idle, I'm at 110 watts, 125 when using office apps .... I'm about 700 under Furmark ..... and get up to like 745 when pumps get going full tilt (Furmark after 90 minutes)

If ya pulling what I'm pulling (twin 780s / 4770k OC'd, 50 watt pumps), I'd expect you'd see (4 hours big gaming, 8 hours normal usage, 12 hours idling) @ $0.10 national average (US).

725 watts x 4 x $0.10 / kw-her / 1000 watts per kw/hr = $0.30
125 watts x 8 x $0.10 / kw-her / 1000 watts per kw/hr = $0.10
100 watts x 12 x $0.10 / kw-her / 1000 watts per kw/hr = $0.12

That's about $0.52 per day ..... add 30 - 40 watts for the monitor for 12 hours would add $0.05, so $0.57.

Where I am, electricity is about 22 cents a kw so we'd pay a bit more .... about $1.25 a day.

Add 50% with a 3rd card and LGA 2011 CPU.

Of course the significant part is, not whether ya gonne turn it off while ya using it, but whether ya gonna turn off in idle.....at a cost of $0.12 a night for a Haswell w/ 2cards of $0.18 w/ 3 cards and LGA 2011, That's $3.65 - $5.47 a month

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Guys, got any good ideas on how to get a filter behind or infront of radiator fans that is removable when installed/mounted? Thanks


Magnetic ? Would really need to know how fans are mounted.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its gonna leak then it will do it whether you are there or not.


But ya not only trusting your build skills..... ya trusting the build skills of each of the guys / gals who built each and every component







... liked that failed molex connector that shut the pump down .... tho if ya have the rpm cable connected to the CPU header, the system should shut down. A recent nor'easter put a tree thru our window next to a PC (was off luckily) and it got stormed on. I was in the field (was my job to get power back on for community ... storm was not supposed to be a biggie) and didn't get home for 4 days afterwards..... put a desk fan on it for 3 days after toweling up and it worked fine.

If I'm in the office till after midnite, I generally leave it on .... if I bug out at 3, 5 or 7 I typically turn it off.

At $8.03 a month, (in my neck o' the woods), I can see peeps shutting it down ...almost $100 a year. If I bug outta my office at


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Oh god, that's an epic catastrophe.
> 
> BTW, your new build is absolutely fantastic looking.


Oh that's not bad at all man. My first water cooled rig ever had a Larkooler block in it, which quite literally blew up. It sprayed a res full of Feser red UV coolant all over the inside of my old HAF 922 case, it looked like someone got shot under a black light









-Zepp


----------



## stickg1

@Jack - I forgot all about your spreadsheets! Thanks. So for me especially since I only have room for push only ST30s are ideal all the way around.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well hey at least the spewing water might extinguish the fire which may also occur in your absence.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Magnetic ? Would really need to know how fans are mounted.


Check this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1459323/fan-filter-removable-filter/0_20


----------



## WaitWhat

Does single GPU (and CPU) water cooling look any good?

I'm planning on putting a 780 ti underwater but all the good looking builds seem to have 2 or more GPUs


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Does single GPU (and CPU) water cooling look any good?
> 
> I'm planning on putting a 780 ti underwater but all the good looking builds seem to have 2 or more GPUs


Absolutely it looks good, just be sure to use the right sized case. Do a clean build in a small case and it will look fantastic. I personally usually enjoy more small builds than i do big ones when the small ones are done right


----------



## SeeThruHead

Caselabs s3 would be perfect for that. Really love the well done single gpu wc builds in the case.


----------



## skupples

Im pushing 3 27 inch monitors.. Not sure what the power draw on those are... The titans pull @least 400 each under load with the clocks I run and them the 5.0 3930k which I assume is also around 400w. 30 typhoons. Two pumps. This is all off of two PSUs so idle efficiency isn't the best but it's not terrible. Everything besides the GPUs run off of a plat 860 and the titans run off of evga g2 1300w. Think I'm going to dtich the 3930k simply because 4930k is much more efficient.

Anyone know DDC pumps power draw? Can't be more than 30-40w


----------



## fa5terba11

Quote:


> Does single GPU (and CPU) water cooling look any good?
> 
> I'm planning on putting a 780 ti underwater but all the good looking builds seem to have 2 or more GPUs


Perhaps a bit too presumptuous, but I think I did a pretty clean and good looking build with a single gpu and cpu. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess. LOL!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Does single GPU (and CPU) water cooling look any good?
> 
> I'm planning on putting a 780 ti underwater but all the good looking builds seem to have 2 or more GPUs


I like how mine looks with just one GPU. I game at 1080p so I've never really had a need for multiple cards.

Aesthetics are really a matter of opinion. I don't think having multiple GPUs makes a watercooling loop look better. It's more in the layout, tubing runs, and some of these guys are really intuitive and creative with some of the work they do. Just hang around the thread for a couple days and make sure you have a couple clean pairs of undies because some of these builds are ridiculous.



I'm still learning, and getting ideas from other members and thinking of ways to improve my setup is the main reason my loop has changed 4 times in the past month. I don't think I'll ever be done or satisfied. I'm actually about to drain and pull two rads to sell off and replace with different rads. Or just one 240mm. I like Alphacool rads a lot, the build quality is nice, and the price/performance is hard to beat.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Looks like you got lost in the sea of posts.Not familiar with the 600D but do you have all your drive bays in still,or are you planning on removing any?I would think you could fit a nice tube res in there and secure it to the drive bay cage which I've see here before.
> 
> Or something like this....
> 
> 
> I know you have a different pump and top,but a good idea I might say


really sweet build but too many dang fitting pieces, kills it.


----------



## VSG

I am pretty sure that is from the 900D build that Corsair had done to show off the case when it launched.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone know DDC pumps power draw? Can't be more than 30-40w


depends on the pump. should be 18watt though so say 20watt for start-up and all


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> My god you're a genius I didn't even THINK of that LOL...


Well I am lazy ... and laziness can be a great incentive for genius









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, beautiful build. Still trying to figure out how you manage that pool effect.


http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK

Scroll about 3/4 of the way down the page

the actual log is on in various threads about the net .... cuda sworn was one here on OCN


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> My god you're a genius I didn't even THINK of that LOL...
> 
> 
> 
> Well I am lazy ... and laziness can be a great incentive for genius
Click to expand...

+1.

Being lazy gives you the opportunity to sit back and think about things...inspiration thru osmosis............FTW


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1.
> 
> Being lazy gives you the opportunity to sit back and think about things...inspiration thru osmosis............FTW


Will be using this line on the wife....


----------



## echo27fire

Hey guys, I have a question. Looking into taking the plunge and i'm trying to plan for the number of radiators I will need. Right now I have a 3570k and a 780. I have a Arc Midi R2, planing on putting a 240 in the front and the roof. Will that be enough to add another 780 later after, or if, I get a 1440 monitor? I have a feeling that might be pushing it..









Thanks!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1.
> 
> Being lazy gives you the opportunity to sit back and think about things...inspiration thru osmosis............FTW
> 
> 
> 
> Will be using this line on the wife....
Click to expand...

Tried it on mine....

.....YMMV.


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I like how mine looks with just one GPU. I game at 1080p so I've never really had a need for multiple cards.
> 
> Aesthetics are really a matter of opinion. I don't think having multiple GPUs makes a watercooling loop look better. It's more in the layout, tubing runs, and some of these guys are really intuitive and creative with some of the work they do. Just hang around the thread for a couple days and make sure you have a couple clean pairs of undies because some of these builds are ridiculous.
> 
> I'm still learning, and getting ideas from other members and thinking of ways to improve my setup is the main reason my loop has changed 4 times in the past month. I don't think I'll ever be done or satisfied. I'm actually about to drain and pull two rads to sell off and replace with different rads. Or just one 240mm. I like Alphacool rads a lot, the build quality is nice, and the price/performance is hard to beat.


Just out of interest, where did you get the yellow bands for the corsair fans?
Did you just paint them?

Mine only came with white, blue and red


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Just out of interest, where did you get the yellow bands for the corsair fans?
> Did you just paint them?
> 
> Mine only came with white, blue and red


Painted them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I like how mine looks with just one GPU. I game at 1080p so I've never really had a need for multiple cards.
> 
> Aesthetics are really a matter of opinion. I don't think having multiple GPUs makes a watercooling loop look better. It's more in the layout, tubing runs, and some of these guys are really intuitive and creative with some of the work they do. Just hang around the thread for a couple days and make sure you have a couple clean pairs of undies because some of these builds are ridiculous.
> 
> I'm still learning, and getting ideas from other members and thinking of ways to improve my setup is the main reason my loop has changed 4 times in the past month. I don't think I'll ever be done or satisfied. I'm actually about to drain and pull two rads to sell off and replace with different rads. Or just one 240mm. I like Alphacool rads a lot, the build quality is nice, and the price/performance is hard to beat.
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of interest, where did you get the yellow bands for the corsair fans?
> Did you just paint them?
> 
> Mine only came with white, blue and red
Click to expand...

Paint them.
They look good painted.


----------



## Belial

Is there any sort of G1/4 cap fitting (you know, for unused reservoir ports and stuff) that would fit flush with the port? I dont like the stock cap fittings that stick out a bit on reservoirs.



see sticking out i want to eliminate that. just need one ;/


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*










I don't even.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question. Looking into taking the plunge and i'm trying to plan for the number of radiators I will need. Right now I have a 3570k and a 780. I have a Arc Midi R2, planing on putting a 240 in the front and the roof. Will that be enough to add another 780 later after, or if, I get a 1440 monitor? I have a feeling that might be pushing it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


You will be fine running a 3570k and sli 780's on 2x240 rads....Rules of cooling,1x120 rad per core/block plus another 120,all up 480mm of surface space,but if you can add another 120 that cnt hurt....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tried it on mine....
> 
> .....YMMV.


My only problem is that her smart ass will use it back on me eventually....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't even.
Click to expand...

Because Racecar.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> You will be fine running a 3570k and sli 780's on 2x240 rads....Rules of cooling,1x120 rad per core/block plus another 120,all up 480mm of surface space,but if you can add another 120 that cnt hurt....


Thanks!







That's kinda what I was thinking but wanted to be sure.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Is there any sort of G1/4 cap fitting (you know, for unused reservoir ports and stuff) that would fit flush with the port? I dont like the stock cap fittings that stick out a bit on reservoirs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see sticking out i want to eliminate that. just need one ;/


The holes in the res are just 1/4 BSPP threads straight through. They are parallel threaded, not tapered like NPT threads. There would be no way for a flush-mounted fitting not to leak. The o-rings on all three of those fittings seal against the flat outside of the cap. I don't think what you are wanting is going to be possible.


----------



## Triscuit

Nothing real special, but this is how my PC sits right now. I hope to get a Raystorm, 2 new rads, 2x290x XSPC waterblocks (cards are being ordered with my mined LTC), and a Koolance 452x2 running the 2 separate loops. All with installed red LED's (might wire them on a switch to turn on and off). Should look amazing when I am done. Oh, and redoing the sleeving and actually finishing it haha.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Is there any sort of G1/4 cap fitting (you know, for unused reservoir ports and stuff) that would fit flush with the port? I dont like the stock cap fittings that stick out a bit on reservoirs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see sticking out i want to eliminate that. just need one ;/


G 1/4 & 1/4" NPT are so similar, i'd say buy this http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brass-Pipe-Fitting-Hollow/dp/B000FN1ABA, put some teflon tape on it and screw it in, i guarantee it won't leak, it's not like there's any pressure in the reservoir

What you're looking for is called a hollow hex plug.

The difference between NPT & G 1/4 (1/4" BSPP, British Standard Pipe Parallel) is that NPT is a tapered thread that seals on the threads and has 18 threads per inch, the G 1/4 is a straight thread with 19 thread per inch, the seal is made by an O-Ring.

Your best bet would be to find a Plastic Hollow Hex plug as the threads would give a little, less chance of damaging the threads on your reservoir. But trust me, if you just buy the NPT, put about 2-3 layers of Teflon on it and screw it in slowly, you will be able to tell if there is a problem, if it gets really really hard to tighten, don't tighten anymore, it will mess up the threds.

You can also purchase this...http://www.amazon.com/Tefen-Nylon-Pipe-Fitting-Black/dp/B006OO90I4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389818333&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=hollow+hex+plug+british and cut the head off, cut a slit in it for a flat head screw driver and use this, it stands no chance of messing up the threads on your reservoir.

If you're asking how I know so much about these fittings, I work for a Fluid Power company called Pneumatic and Hydraulic, everything I sell has threads on it, I also sell thousands of different fittings with different thread types.

www.pneumaticandhydraulic.com


----------



## Triscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Paint them.
> They look good painted.


That looks amazing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> *G 1/4 & 1/4" NPT are so similar,* i'd say buy this http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brass-Pipe-Fitting-Hollow/dp/B000FN1ABA, put some teflon tape on it and screw it in, i guarantee it won't leak, it's not like there's any pressure in the reservoir
> 
> What you're looking for is called a hollow hex plug.
> 
> The difference between NPT & G 1/4 (1/4" BSPP, British Standard Pipe Parallel) is that NPT is a tapered thread that seals on the threads and has 18 threads per inch, the G 1/4 is a straight thread with 19 thread per inch, the seal is made by an O-Ring.
> 
> Your best bet would be to find a Plastic Hollow Hex plug as the threads would give a little, less chance of damaging the threads on your reservoir. But trust me, if you just buy the NPT, put about 2-3 layers of Teflon on it and screw it in slowly, you will be able to tell if there is a problem, if it gets really really hard to tighten, don't tighten anymore, it will mess up the threds.
> 
> You can also purchase this...http://www.amazon.com/Tefen-Nylon-Pipe-Fitting-Black/dp/B006OO90I4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389818333&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=hollow+hex+plug+british and cut the head off, cut a slit in it for a flat head screw driver and use this, it stands no chance of messing up the threads on your reservoir.
> 
> If you're asking how I know so much about these fittings, I work for a Fluid Power company called Pneumatic and Hydraulic, everything I sell has threads on it, I also sell thousands of different fittings with different thread types.
> 
> www.pneumaticandhydraulic.com


I just tried screwing some 1/4 NPT threaded schrader valves into g1/4 brass fittings and they wouldn't even go in but a single turn before starting to seize up / crossthread. They were so not leak-tight yet that I could blow air through it like a whistle, but had to use pliers to get them apart.

1/4 BSP is 19 TPI (threads per inch) and 1/4 NPT is 18 TPI. I think you would risk destroying the threads in that acetal if you try to screw in anything 1/4 NPT threaded into it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Is there any sort of G1/4 cap fitting (you know, for unused reservoir ports and stuff) that would fit flush with the port? I dont like the stock cap fittings that stick out a bit on reservoirs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see sticking out i want to eliminate that. just need one ;/


If you use a flat top res, or it has a flat on the inside where the threads are, just put the stop plug on the inside and a screw driver slot in the threaded end so you can loosen it a little bit from the outside to bleed.

D.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Updated images of my loop:


Good looking rig.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What has better cooling potential with a high RPM fan(s) like the Corsair SP120 High Performance? A 240mm ST30 rad or a 120mm UT60 rad?


Bigger rad of course. A bigger fan will always cool better, but a bigger rad will always cool better too, and it doesnt change depending on what fan you use. Unless maybe you mean like, High Fan Small Rad vs Small fan Big Rad, in which case a fan doesnt contribute _that_ much, only 2-3C at most, so it's not a big deal.

A 240mm rad will have more cooling potential. If you are going on about deeper rads, deepness doesn't make a big contribution to temps. Surface area, not deepness. The difference between a 'fat' rad is like the same of just adding a single fan. As always, high static pressure is best for a fan. If I'm understanding your question right. Martins tested thick vs thin rads.
Quote:


> The holes in the res are just 1/4 BSPP threads straight through. They are parallel threaded, not tapered like NPT threads. There would be no way for a flush-mounted fitting not to leak. The o-rings on all three of those fittings seal against the flat outside of the cap. I don't think what you are wanting is going to be possible.


Well, it doesnt need to be water proof necessarily since it'll be on the top of the res, but okay, i'm sure no one makes what' i'm asking for for said reason. dang.

I mean I'd be okay with putting the fitting _on the inside_. I mean right, why dont they have that? Then the top is just a smooth, level surface.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Is there any sort of G1/4 cap fitting (you know, for unused reservoir ports and stuff) that would fit flush with the port? I dont like the stock cap fittings that stick out a bit on reservoirs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see sticking out i want to eliminate that. just need one ;/
> 
> 
> 
> G 1/4 & 1/4" NPT are so similar, i'd say buy this http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brass-Pipe-Fitting-Hollow/dp/B000FN1ABA, put some teflon tape on it and screw it in, i guarantee it won't leak, it's not like there's any pressure in the reservoir
> 
> What you're looking for is called a hollow hex plug.
> 
> The difference between NPT & G 1/4 (1/4" BSPP, British Standard Pipe Parallel) is that NPT is a tapered thread that seals on the threads and has 18 threads per inch, the G 1/4 is a straight thread with 19 thread per inch, the seal is made by an O-Ring.
> 
> Your best bet would be to find a Plastic Hollow Hex plug as the threads would give a little, less chance of damaging the threads on your reservoir. But trust me, if you just buy the NPT, put about 2-3 layers of Teflon on it and screw it in slowly, you will be able to tell if there is a problem, if it gets really really hard to tighten, don't tighten anymore, it will mess up the threds.
> 
> You can also purchase this...http://www.amazon.com/Tefen-Nylon-Pipe-Fitting-Black/dp/B006OO90I4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389818333&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=hollow+hex+plug+british and cut the head off, cut a slit in it for a flat head screw driver and use this, it stands no chance of messing up the threads on your reservoir.
> 
> If you're asking how I know so much about these fittings, I work for a Fluid Power company called Pneumatic and Hydraulic, everything I sell has threads on it, I also sell thousands of different fittings with different thread types.
> 
> www.pneumaticandhydraulic.com
Click to expand...

Thanks everyone for the input on fittings. I'll go with darlene's suggestion first (just put in a fitting the other way from the inside, simply). If that doesnt work, I'll try to find a plastic hollow hex plug NPT that won't hurt the threads.


----------



## stickg1

Interesting, I just pulled out two of my 120mm rads because I want to sell them and replace them with radiators that match my others. However, despite removing 240mm of cooling surface, my load (folding) temps are pretty much exactly the same. I might be wasting my time and money here. I think I'll just skip getting more rads and get myself that nice fan controller and call it a day...

I had to use an odd assortment of fittings to get an operational loop because I'm out of tubing so I had to connect together what I already had, lol.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So still kinda new to AC rads; only had an ST30 so far. Just got a single UT45 and apparently there is not a bleed port on this model? Six ports on one side and all can be used like any other I figure then?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Good looking rig.


Thank you. I tried my best. Although the Chassis is large, working on the loop is incredibly difficult at times. Added to this, it's my first loop.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So still kinda new to AC rads; only had an ST30 so far. Just got a single UT45 and apparently there is not a bleed port on this model? Six ports on one side and all can be used like any other I figure then?


Only Alphacool's UT60 and Monstas have a fill/bleed port on the opposite end. The exception being their 180mm-series XT45 rads do have the extra port).


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thanks +rep. So I have six options, cool...need to use on on the left and one on the right though?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Thanks +rep. So I have six options, cool...need to use on on the left and one on the right though?


Correct. In a typical rad, like those Alphacools, flow goes in one long U-shape down one side of the rad to the other end, and then back up the other.



^ That should help show why the drain / fill port shouldn't ever be incorporated as part of a loop, as would only get half of the flow through the rad. ie: half the cooling performance. If you need ports on either end then you want a crossflow rad where the flow goes in a long S-shape and inlet/outlet ports end up on opposite ends.

You can pretty much see what I'm talking about in the cutaway pictures below of an Alphacool rad, with the inlet/outlet ports cut away in the images on the right, and the end-chamber cut away pics on the left. You can see how the flow goes down one side of the rad to the end, and then comes back up the other side in a long U-shape flow pattern. It's the same basic design with all computer watercooling rads with the exception of crossflows.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Bigger rad of course. A bigger fan will always cool better, but a bigger rad will always cool better too, and it doesnt change depending on what fan you use. Unless maybe you mean like, High Fan Small Rad vs Small fan Big Rad, in which case a fan doesnt contribute _that_ much, only 2-3C at most, so it's not a big deal.
> 
> A 240mm rad will have more cooling potential. If you are going on about deeper rads, deepness doesn't make a big contribution to temps. Surface area, not deepness. The difference between a 'fat' rad is like the same of just adding a single fan. As always, high static pressure is best for a fan. If I'm understanding your question right. Martins tested thick vs thin rads.
> Well, it doesnt need to be water proof necessarily since it'll be on the top of the res, but okay, i'm sure no one makes what' i'm asking for for said reason. dang.
> 
> I mean I'd be okay with putting the fitting _on the inside_. I mean right, why dont they have that? Then the top is just a smooth, level surface.
> Thanks everyone for the input on fittings. I'll go with darlene's suggestion first (just put in a fitting the other way from the inside, simply). If that doesnt work, I'll try to find a plastic hollow hex plug NPT that won't hurt the threads.


the ek stop fittings that come with there reservoirs and blocks are very low profile. The fittings has a groove for the o-ring that makes it much more low profile. When using there products they go flush but it might work differently with different g1/4 threads.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Excellent, thank you. FYI came from FCPU in really good shape. Fins are all fine. One weird roughish spot on side in the matte but not a scratch or scuff. Probably from the factory.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Does single GPU (and CPU) water cooling look any good?
> 
> I'm planning on putting a 780 ti underwater but all the good looking builds seem to have 2 or more GPUs


I too believe that it can look great with a smaller case. I have watercooled mine and I think it looks great, although I haven't officially joined the club here since I still want to make custom cables before I post pictures, but you can see them in by build log if you want.

Case Labs S3 or S5 are nice. The Corsair 350D is a nice case as well, but the thing about that case is that it has a tendency to turn everything you put inside of it red


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I just tried screwing some 1/4 NPT threaded schrader valves into g1/4 brass fittings and they wouldn't even go in but a single turn before starting to seize up / crossthread. They were so not leak-tight yet that I could blow air through it like a whistle, but had to use pliers to get them apart.
> 
> 1/4 BSP is 19 TPI (threads per inch) and 1/4 NPT is 18 TPI. I think you would risk destroying the threads in that acetal if you try to screw in anything 1/4 NPT threaded into it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> G 1/4 & 1/4" NPT are so similar, i'd say buy this http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brass-Pipe-Fitting-Hollow/dp/B000FN1ABA, put some teflon tape on it and screw it in, i guarantee it won't leak, it's not like there's any pressure in the reservoir


I cut the barbs off of a D5 pump top and threaded 1/4" NPT threads into it, then screwed G 1/4" fittings into the NPT Threads, worked like a charm, just saying


----------



## kpoeticg

I threaded a PSI Guage, that i was told was G1/4 BSPP, into a rad. It definitely tore up the threads. I had to get a BP E-Extender and thread tape to workaround it. Stop plugs literally just push in all the way to the o-ring and drop right back out without touching threads.

So i'm assuming it was actually NPT. Maybe BSPP => NPT is safer than NPT => BSPP


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I cut the barbs off of a D5 pump top and threaded 1/4" NPT threads into it, then screwed G 1/4" fittings into the NPT Threads, worked like a charm, just saying


I guess it's a YMMV thing.

In my case you can see pretty clearly how far I was able to screw the NPT schrader valve in by the amount of teflon that got scraped off (the valves came coated with sealant) and if you look you can see I damaged the threads to both pieces by trying to tighten them up enough they would be leak-tight. I bought a bunch of the schrader valves and the fitting is one of many extras so I wasn't too worried about the threads on either, which is why I kept tightening them more than normal. I just wanted to get them together and not leak, but it never was going to happen.



Instead I bought a few Koolance G 1/4" Male to NPT 1/4" Female fittings and they seemed to do the trick. Darlene (IT Diva) warned me in a post earlier on this thread that the Koolance adapters I had just ordered at the time were junk, and she wasn't far off in my case. They screwed on in just fine, but it took me several tries using more and more teflon tape each time before I was able to get a leak-free seal.

All I've managed to do so far is put them in a test of what's only a partial loop (work-in-progress) and they held a steady ~8 lbs pressure overnight.


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I too believe that it can look great with a smaller case. I have watercooled mine and I think it looks great, although I haven't officially joined the club here since I still want to make custom cables before I post pictures, but you can see them in by build log if you want.
> 
> Case Labs S3 or S5 are nice. The Corsair 350D is a nice case as well, but the thing about that case is that it has a tendency to turn everything you put inside of it red


I have a 750D so it's a bit bigger than the 350D









I agree it looks ace in a small case, however in quite a large case I'm not sure if it's gonna look silly sitting there by itself

May have to get adventurous with the tubing...

Is there any recommendations on clear tubing? I've previously used the XSPC stuff as started off with the D5 360 kit a year back and thought it seemed decent enough


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I cut the barbs off of a D5 pump top and threaded 1/4" NPT threads into it, then screwed G 1/4" fittings into the NPT Threads, worked like a charm, just saying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it's a YMMV thing.
> 
> In my case you can see pretty clearly how far I was able to screw the NPT schrader valve in by the amount of teflon that got scraped off (the valves came coated with sealant) and if you look you can see I damaged the threads to both pieces by trying to tighten them up enough they would be leak-tight. I bought a bunch of the schrader valves and the fitting is one of many extras so I wasn't too worried about the threads on either, which is why I kept tightening them more than normal. I just wanted to get them together and not leak, but it never was going to happen.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead I bought a few Koolance G 1/4" Male to NPT 1/4" Female fittings and they seemed to do the trick. Darlene (IT Diva) warned me in a post earlier on this thread that the Koolance adapters I had just ordered at the time were junk, and she wasn't far off in my case. They screwed on in just fine, but it took me several tries using more and more teflon tape each time before I was able to get a leak-free seal.
> 
> All I've managed to do so far is put them in a test of what's only a partial loop (work-in-progress) and they held a steady ~8 lbs pressure overnight.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

The other option is to cut the first couple threads off the gage, but if you got yours to hold, you're lucky . . . Just keep an eye on it.

You'll go to test, and it'll leak down a couple pounds overnight, and you really have no way to know if it was a micro leak at the gage, or one you need to worry about.

It was my intense frustration with that fitting that Pi**ed me off enough to make the little manifold setup I've pictured in previous posts which works marvelously every time.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The other option is to cut the first couple threads off the gage, but if you got yours to hold, you're lucky . . . Just keep an eye on it.
> 
> You'll go to test, and it'll leak down a couple pounds overnight, and you really have no way to know if it was a micro leak at the gage, or one you need to worry about.
> 
> It was my intense frustration with that fitting that Pi**ed me off enough to make the little manifold setup I've pictured in previous posts which works marvelously ever time.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah I'd already ordered these koolance adapter fittings so figured I'd give them a go. They're 'Plan A'.

If I do get any leaks, like I already did the first couple times I tried I found out there were leaks between the NPT threads and the Koolance adapters, I've found them so far by using a Q-tip with soapy water.

If this doesn't work out - I'm still at least a week away from completing this loop before I actually put it to use - then I've got your post with the mcmaster-carr parts list saved. but for now at least that's still 'Plan B'.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> I have a 750D so it's a bit bigger than the 350D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree it looks ace in a small case, however in quite a large case I'm not sure if it's gonna look silly sitting there by itself
> 
> May have to get adventurous with the tubing...
> 
> Is there any recommendations on clear tubing? I've previously used the XSPC stuff as started off with the D5 360 kit a year back and thought it seemed decent enough


Personally, I would go with Primochill Advanced LRT or even acrylic.

If you're worried about if it will look silly or not with a single gpu, perhaps you could do something to draw the attention away from it? Like remove the hdd cages and build a scale model of your computer setup in there.


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Personally, I would go with Primochill Advanced LRT or even acrylic.
> 
> If you're worried about if it will look silly or not with a single gpu, perhaps you could do something to draw the attention away from it? Like remove the hdd cages and build a scale model of your computer setup in there.


That does look like some nice tubing, bit more 'quality' looking than the XSPC stuff.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> That does look like some nice tubing, bit more 'quality' looking than the XSPC stuff.


Don't be overwhelmed by all the sick build you see in here. Chances are, if you get into watercooling, you'll catch the ITUS soon enough. It's definitely worthwhile to watercool a CPU + 1GPU.

Primochill Advanced LRT is recommended because it doesn't leech plasticizer. If you're gonna get soft tubing, it's best to go with either Advanced LRT or Black Norprene/Rubber/ZMT tubing. Alot of soft tubings start to degrade after a little bit and the platic they shed ends up clogging up your waterblocks and pumps. Advanced LRT and Norprene don't have this issue. It's not just about looks.


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Don't be overwhelmed by all the sick build you see in here. Chances are, if you get into watercooling, you'll catch the ITUS soon enough. It's definitely worthwhile to watercool a CPU + 1GPU.
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT is recommended because it doesn't leech plasticizer. If you're gonna get soft tubing, it's best to go with either Advanced LRT or Black Norprene/Rubber/ZMT tubing. Alot of soft tubings start to degrade after a little bit and the platic they shed ends up clogging up your waterblocks and pumps. Advanced LRT and Norprene don't have this issue. It's not just about looks.


I caught the watercooling bug a while ago, just never bothered adding in my GPU as it was cool enough but I'm doing a new build soon so may as well add it in









My only concern was that nearly all builds I see use atleast 2 GPUs...I wasn't sure if there was a reason for that as far as aesthetics go or if people just have plenty of money. A single GPU is enough for me at the moment. Adding a second gpu would be more money for the card, plus block, fittings etc

I appreciate the tubing isn't just for looks







would hope so too as it's twice the price of the stuff I'd usually use.


----------



## kpoeticg

If it's worth it to cool just your CPU, then y wouldn't it be worth it to cool a single GPU as well? =)

It's not so much of a coincidence as it's the same type of people in this world that would want 2, 3, or 4 GPU's in their PC are the same people that are attracted to watercooling. People watercool whatever they have. If you want better temps/clocks on a piece of hardware, put it under water. Don't worry about any of the other aspects of it. Functionality of your PC should always come first. Worry about aesthtetics later....


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If it's worth it to cool just your CPU, then y wouldn't it be worth it to cool a single GPU as well? =)
> 
> It's not so much of a coincidence as it's the same type of people in this world that would want 2, 3, or 4 GPU's in their PC are the same people that are attracted to watercooling. People watercool whatever they have. If you want better temps/clocks on a piece of hardware, put it under water. Don't worry about any of the other aspects of it. Functionality of your PC should always come first. Worry about aesthtetics later....


Don't get me wrong, I'd love to put a couple of GPUs under water for looks. it would of course be cool, but for performance gain, I don't see it worth it personally (only a 1080p gamer)

But I'm planning to get a 780 Ti very soon. The single card performance is perfect for what I play, just didn't want it to look lonely by itself


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> I caught the watercooling bug a while ago, just never bothered adding in my GPU as it was cool enough but I'm doing a new build soon so may as well add it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My only concern was that nearly all builds I see use atleast 2 GPUs...I wasn't sure if there was a reason for that as far as aesthetics go or if people just have plenty of money. A single GPU is enough for me at the moment. Adding a second gpu would be more money for the card, plus block, fittings etc
> 
> I appreciate the tubing isn't just for looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would hope so too as it's twice the price of the stuff I'd usually use.


i cooled my gpus to keep the noise down when they(670 ftw-sli) rev-up. it started to sound like when i used to live in the flight path of JFK in Howard Beach, NY. the noise from the cards and my cpu air cooler was just to much for me to handle. i cooled my cpu first then the gpu's. two gpu's = twice as much jet noise. i don't game with headphones, so noise was an issue for me. now the most noise my comp will make is when the HDD's get to doing their thing. before my 670's i had gtx260-216 and those sounded like i was IN the engine of a plane. as a bonus to the noise, my gpu's rarely go over 42 degrees if i keep my ambient below 78.


----------



## Anoxy

Another reason most people wait til they have multi-gpu configurations to put them under water is because one card typically does fine on air. Once you add in a second card, airflow becomes more of an issue, and cards start to run much hotter, possibly leading to throttling.

I know that was the case for me, which is why I switched to a custom loop in the first place.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I'd love to put a couple of GPUs under water for looks. it would of course be cool, but for performance gain, I don't see it worth it personally (only a 1080p gamer)


You're right...so you _could_ also start to think about moving on from last decade's resolution. No major reason you have to stay " only a 1080P gamer" anymore; esp if you get a 780. I'd still be on 1200P if not for Korean. I sure don't have $500+ for a display. And hey more money for cooling gear!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Any suggestions for routing my tube?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I'd love to put a couple of GPUs under water for looks. it would of course be cool, but for performance gain, I don't see it worth it personally (only a 1080p gamer)
> 
> But I'm planning to get a 780 Ti very soon. The single card performance is perfect for what I play, just didn't want it to look lonely by itself


Who cares if it looks lonely. It'll perform better under water. If you really care about empty space, and only ever want one PCIE card, get an mitx board and mitx chassis. You'll save money, it'll be more portable, and there won't be loneliness.....until upgrade time comes around









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Another reason most people wait til they have multi-gpu configurations to put them under water is because one card typically does fine on air. Once you add in a second card, airflow becomes more of an issue, and cards start to run much hotter, possibly leading to throttling.
> 
> I know that was the case for me, which is why I switched to a custom loop in the first place.


^^^This. Exactly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Any suggestions for routing my tube?


Assuming your pumps under the res under the midplate. I say pump routed to the top rad from behind the mobo. rad => cpu = gpu's => res => pump

Edit: oops almost missed the sexiest block =)

rad => vrm => cpu => PCH => GPU's => res => pump


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Assuming your pumps under the res under the midplate. I say pump routed to the top rad from behind the mobo. rad => cpu = gpu's => res => pump
> Edit: oops almost missed the sexiest block =)
> rad => vrm => cpu => PCH => GPU's => res => pump


Ah yes, Pump and another 480 are on the basement.

Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## sebkow

Whats everyone using for there Acrylic Tubing?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Whats everyone using for there Acrylic Tubing?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/

Towards the bottom of the first post of that topic explains most of your options, and that thread is filled with answers to most anything else you might want to know about acrylic tubing.

Also, Monsoon is supposed to be releasing a new line of acrylic tubing and fittings sometime very soon.


----------



## Roxycon

@LaBestiaHumana

Assuming you got the pump res and non visible chambers tubed up and your rad inletoutlet on the back i would go rad>90>northbridge in at the back end >90 to 90> back end of the cpu>90 to 90> back end of southbridge/chip>crossing over gpu to 90> gpu's>straight down through the midplate, i think that would be the most symmetric and good looking route









Couple that up with a mod to the midplate where you route the tube res down through the midplate to where i think the pump is situated it could look king


----------



## kpoeticg

> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Ah yes, Pump and another 480 are on the basement.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion.


NP. I thought you had another rad under there. Been a while since i checked your build log. I still say that's the cleanest route though. The rad under the midplate shouldn't change that. Obviously that's just my opinion though.









Edit: i also was gonna recommend to send the GPU's straight through the midplate. But i just watched that Neptune Build log a few hours ago, so don't know if that clouded my judgement









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Whats everyone using for there Acrylic Tubing?


I'm waiting for the new Monsoon Hardline fittings and tubing to be released before i decide on anything. You should decide on your fittings first. There's limited options with acrylic, so the fittings you want might decide your tubing for you


----------



## Pimphare

double post sorry


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> NP. I thought you had another rad under there. Been a while since i checked your build log. I still say that's the cleanest route though. The rad under the midplate shouldn't change that. Obviously that's just my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: i also was gonna recommend to send the GPU's straight through the midplate. But i just watched that Neptune Build log a few hours ago, so don't know if that clouded my judgement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for the new Monsoon Hardline fittings and tubing to be released before i decide on anything. You should decide on your fittings first. There's limited options with acrylic, so the fittings you want might decide your tubing for you


What do you mean about sending the gpus through the midplate?


----------



## Pimphare

oops


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Whats everyone using for there Acrylic Tubing?


I bought Primochill 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD acrylic tubing with Primochill Ghost fittings. I'm still setting up my water cooled system so I don't have any pics of it with the tubing installed. I attempted to make some bends without the silicon insert.







I ended up ordering the insert and got it in the mail today. Might do some bending tonight just to see how this thing works.


----------



## djriful

Draining the radiators from the loop is such pain in the butt. Any suggestions? I've been trying to rotate my rig 360 like a madman. The hard part the rig weigh so much.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What do you mean about sending the gpus through the midplate?


Routing the tubing from the GPU's straight down through a hole in the midplate. It usually gives a nice effect

The acrylic tubing kinda disappears into the acrylic from the midplate


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Draining the radiators from the loop is such pain in the butt. Any suggestions? I've been trying to rotate my rig 360 like a madman. The hard part the rig weigh so much.


I typically open up the drain port (for me it's a QDC at the bottom of the loop) and loosen the stop fitting on the top of the res and the water rushes out. There is almost always a little water left in the rads. I just put down some paper towels or rags and remove the rad and undo the fittings and dump the last little bit of water.


----------



## sWaY20

Ok im trying to get together a parts list to order for my sig rig, i have a decent idea but im new to this and not sure. Id appreciate if anyone can look over this list and see if im missing anything or have something wrong. I think i have the compression fitting size wrong on for the gpu block and not sure what size i need. I would also like to easily drain the loop, but again not sure exactly what i need. Thanks for the help in advance.

Part # Product Description Qty Price Total

ex-liq-284 Mayhems Pastel Coolant Concentrate - 250mL - Ice White $21.95 $21.95

ex-tub-1791 EK G1/4 Thread Perfect Seal Compression Fitting - 12mm ID x 16mm OD (7/16" x 5/8") - Black $6.99 $55.92

ex-pmp-251 EK D5 X-RES Top 100 w/ D5 Vario Pump (EK-D5 Vario X-RES 100 (incl. pump)) $144.99 $144.99

ex-rad-199 EK CoolStream 360 XT Series Liquid Cooling Radiator (EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360)) $82.95 $82.95

ex-blc-1442 EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ) $72.99 $72.99

ex-tub-1572 PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 7/16"ID x 5/8" OD - Clear (PFLEXA-758) $2.50 $25.00

ex-blc-1556 EK EVGA 780 Classified (and 780 Ti Classified) VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel + Acetal (EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Acetal+Nickel) $119.99 $119.99

Subtotal: $523.79


----------



## kpoeticg

Everything looks good as far as i can see. Only thing missing is maybe some rad fans if you don't already own some


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Everything looks good as far as i can see. Only thing missing is maybe some rad fans if you don't already own some


Already have 3 corsair fans up front on 540 air and 2 more on my h100i. So the fittings I have will fit the gpu block?

tappin from the neXus 5


----------



## kpoeticg

I can't imagine why they wouldn't fit it. They're the EK PSC fittings.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Draining the radiators from the loop is such pain in the butt. Any suggestions? I've been trying to rotate my rig 360 like a madman. The hard part the rig weigh so much.


1) Open the drain plug
2) Open the fill port
3) Use a DataVac to blow all the water out
4) Watch as your radiators explode from the pressure
5) Spend the next 6 weeks in a series of doctor visits to remove the shrapnel from your body









Just kidding, lol. I do what Stickg1 does with opening up another port in the top of my loop. Once I've drained all I could that way, I'll remove the rads, but put in plugs before I do so no left over water comes rushing out.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Draining the radiators from the loop is such pain in the butt. Any suggestions? I've been trying to rotate my rig 360 like a madman. The hard part the rig weigh so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Open the drain plug
> 2) Open the fill port
> 3) Use a DataVac to blow all the water out
> 4) Watch as your radiators explode from the pressure
> 5) Spend the next 6 weeks in a series of doctor visits to remove the shrapnel from your body
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kidding, lol. I do what Stickg1 does with opening up another port in the top of my loop. Once I've drained all I could that way, I'll remove the rads, but put in plugs before I do so no left over water comes rushing out.
Click to expand...

I have a MetroVAC.... blower... I am considering to use it to push all the water out from the loop...


----------



## Belial

Anyone have pics of a clear cap reservoir in use?

Preferably, a bitspower clear reservoir _with black fittings and dark blue or blue fluid, ideally mayhems pastel_?

I'm debating whether to go for the black cap version or clear cap version of the bitspower acrylic reservoir (bnegative seems to be a fan of their reservoirs). Now I see a few pics of the clear reservoir in usage _with silver_ fittings, and it looks super sharp, and I see pictures of the black reservoir _with black fittings_, and that also looks sharp.

I can't use fittings other then black because my block and rad are black with black barbs, so I think it'd be weird to put anything other then black on the fittings of the reservoir (for a while, i strongly contemplated a phobya balancer black nickel and using that dark gray, black chrome fittings, because my build has a ton of dark gray in it with the sleeving, custom acrylic work, and mobo, but i decided against it since it'd be weird for black rad, black block, gray res all in the same loop).

So, my current deliberation, of black cap reservoir + black fittings or clear cap + black fittings. i think a clear res would be more of a solid dark blue because of all the mayhems pastel I'm using in it... but still, just wanted to see if anyone had pics of a clear acrylic reservoir (even bay reservoirs or pump reservoirs where the fitting mates at a clear part is fine) with black fittings on it. I think I'm leaning towards clear reservoir, but wondering if just the black caps kinda stick out weird and a black cap would look better.

thanks. tldr looking for pics of black fittings on clear ports of a reservoir, ideally with blue fluid.


----------



## darwing

No acrylic tubing yet but getting there ! I have a new video up things are looking amazing







and couldnt be happier with the custom pump bracket I made, please check it out









I will be buying the noiseblockers it seems, and I will be having a contest on my youtube channel for the users who make the best comments on my videos after I hit 50 subscribers, I will announce the price this weekend and ship to anywhere in north america









I will be posting pics later this week but the video is done please take a look


----------



## wermad

for rads like the Ut60s, a good 140mm fan w/ high pressure matter or not? Reason I ask is that I don't run my fans at full so the drop in pressure due to drop in fan speed matter or not?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> for rads like the Ut60s, a good 140mm fan w/ high pressure matter or not? Reason I ask is that I don't run my fans at full so the drop in pressure due to drop in fan speed matter or not?


I feel that the UT60's can really go either way. If push/pull, I prefer high static pressure fans, if just push, I prefer high airflow fans. Just MHO though.


----------



## note

Just gonna share my latest build. For a case as tall as two soda cans, I think I did well..


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *note*
> 
> Just gonna share my latest build. For a case as tall as two soda cans, I think I did well..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that a static cooled 240 or is there fans in the top also???


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> I caught the watercooling bug a while ago, just never bothered adding in my GPU as it was cool enough but I'm doing a new build soon so may as well add it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My only concern was that nearly all builds I see use atleast 2 GPUs...I wasn't sure if there was a reason for that as far as aesthetics go or if people just have plenty of money. A single GPU is enough for me at the moment. Adding a second gpu would be more money for the card, plus block, fittings etc
> 
> I appreciate the tubing isn't just for looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would hope so too as it's twice the price of the stuff I'd usually use.


I was cooling CPU & one GPU. My main reason going custom watercooling is for lower temps & quiet rig. I live in 30+ C ambient, so watercooling helps a lot. If you caught watercooling bug, you're not going to do it just for lower temps but mainly because you just want to water cool them.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *note*
> 
> Just gonna share my latest build. For a case as tall as two soda cans, I think I did well..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, I love it. But where are the rads?


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *note*
> 
> Just gonna share my latest build. For a case as tall as two soda cans, I think I did well..


Very nice. Love the color combo. If you don't mind me asking... what are your specs and what do you have into it $ wise? I'm looking to start my htpc/steam box build soon and was planning on that case or another similar to it. Planning on doing mainly white and baby blue in mine. Again, very nice build!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> for rads like the Ut60s, a good 140mm fan w/ high pressure matter or not? Reason I ask is that I don't run my fans at full so the drop in pressure due to drop in fan speed matter or not?


Regardless of push or push/pull or pull, you always want high static pressure for fans on rads. You pretty much need high static pressure for anything in a PC system except maybe intake fans with no obstructions behind them. Static pressure is more important then airflow.

As for how you run your fans... just reduce the speed via fan controller when you aren't using a stress test or high load... I hit 90C with 100% fan speed on 4x140mm fans on my rad, with the 6 other fans in my system on 100% too, but I actually game with my fans _off_. I turn 2 fans on low when streaming+gaming.

That said, 'good 140mm fans' is a bit of a misnomer, there aren't many great 140mm fans since they aren't as developed as 120mm fans. Pretty much all 140mm fans perform the same for a given dBa or CFM (the thermaltake fans are an exception but aren't as far better like youd see in, say, a yate vs standard fan even). Martin even showed that high quality 120mm fans are better then 140mm fans (in terms of airflow per dba, of course for raw power a 140mm fan at 2k RPM will have more raw power then a 120mm at 2k RPM).

So of course, get the best fan you can afford, there isn't much difference between 140s, and higher pressure always matters. Theres still static pressure when you reduce the fan speed of course... but when your just browsing you dont exactly run the same heat loads as during prime95.


----------



## TimeToKill

@Anoxy

Look's like a 240mm in the top but I could be wrong.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> I caught the watercooling bug a while ago, just never bothered adding in my GPU as it was cool enough but I'm doing a new build soon so may as well add it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My only concern was that nearly all builds I see use atleast 2 GPUs...I wasn't sure if there was a reason for that as far as aesthetics go or if people just have plenty of money. A single GPU is enough for me at the moment. Adding a second gpu would be more money for the card, plus block, fittings etc
> 
> I appreciate the tubing isn't just for looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would hope so too as it's twice the price of the stuff I'd usually use.
> 
> 
> 
> I was cooling CPU & one GPU. My main reason going custom watercooling is for lower temps & quiet rig. I live in 30+ C ambient, so watercooling helps a lot. If you caught watercooling bug, you're not going to do it just for lower temps but mainly because you just want to water cool them.
Click to expand...

Nice build but the red just doesnt jive with me - you got a _blue_ theme and the red looks out of place, especially with it only in one spot. Just block the rad (or paint it blue or black), put the blue covers in those fans instead of the reds, and for gods sake get some sleeved cable extensions. [email protected] does a great job, for $45 you can get your 24pin, cpu, and 2x GPU cords custom sleeved in paracord. Lutro is like twice the price, and paracord looks a million times better then sleeving imo.

Some cable management needed at the bottom too, hide all those cables or sleeve them. You got this like $500, premo, really well done water loop, great aesthetic choices in colors and installation, and just these goofy unsleeved cables and red that just doesnt mesh with your build at all that just cost a few bucks. It's like having hubcaps on a ferrari! A ferrari you built by hand!

Maybe if you had more red accessories, some red in the loop, you could pull off a blue and red thing, but right now you got a very very blue build with just the red sticking out like a sore thumb. Your motherboard is entirely blue, you gotta change that for red to work in there. Like paint the chipset red or something. I mean your loop you really did a great job with the fittings, choices, and tubing, it's just not quite there for silly reasons.

edit: maybe make that raystorm red, for starters, if you really want to do the red + blue thing (which i wouldnt really advise, im not sure ive ever seen anyone do it well, ive seen a few attempts that looked good though). And the PSU, put a gs600 sticker that's been done in red (there's a thread around here for that). Then you might have it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I feel that the UT60's can really go either way. If push/pull, I prefer high static pressure fans, if just push, I prefer high airflow fans. Just MHO though.


so high cfm for single bank fan setups or high pressure for push/pull?


----------



## Anoxy

Ah, you're right, must be pretty slim. Didn't notice that tube running up had a 90-degree fitting to the rad.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I have a MetroVAC.... blower... I am considering to use it to push all the water out from the loop...


Do you have a MetroVAC or a MetroVAC DataVAC? There's a huge difference.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> so high cfm for single bank fan setups or high pressure for push/pull?
> 
> The way you explained it, i'd definitely recommend high SP fans. If you wanna run em at low speeds and still get great performance, P/P with SP fans is the way to go
> 
> Also that just reminded me that i made you a promise while i was away last week. I'm gonna look into that right now


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I feel that the UT60's can really go either way. If push/pull, I prefer high static pressure fans, if just push, I prefer high airflow fans. Just MHO though.
> 
> 
> 
> so high cfm for single bank fan setups or high pressure for push/pull?
Click to expand...

No. High static pressure for single, high static pressure for push pull. High static pressure for any fan on a rad. So much as an empty HDD bay just _kills_ airflow, especially a rad. Having a fan with high cfm, low static pressure on a rad, on either single or push/pull, just means the air washes into the rad and gets lost and can't push all the way through and the heat isn't really pushed out quickly. You need static pressure. With 2 fans, you still can't have enough static pressure to efficiently dissipate the heat. Air will get into the fins of a rad if you got a fan on it, regardless of the CFM. What you want is air to be _pushed_ through.

Think of static pressure like a water hose. 2 hoses with just water washing through a rad wont clean dirt off it. 10 hoses with just the normal low flow wont get water off a dirty rad. _100 hoses_ wont get the dirt of. But a single hose with a jet adaptor, pew pew, dirt will come off. 2 jet hoses, even better.


----------



## note

Ooopss.. I forgot to put my build log..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1438884/build-log-evga-hadron-golden-nugget-water-cooled-mini-itx-finally-done
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Is that a static cooled 240 or is there fans in the top also???


There are fans up top.. Modded but working well..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Wow, I love it. But where are the rads?


Rads are also up top..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Very nice. Love the color combo. If you don't mind me asking... what are your specs and what do you have into it $ wise? I'm looking to start my htpc/steam box build soon and was planning on that case or another similar to it. Planning on doing mainly white and baby blue in mine. Again, very nice build!



i7- 4770k
Asus z87i-deluxe
16GB Corsair Vengeance LP
Mushking 250gb SSD
Zotac GTX 670 2gb


----------



## wermad

Reason I'm asking is the low, and I stress, low selection of high pressure 140s







.

These are appealing:



Quote:


> Learn more about the Rosewill ROCF-11003
> Model
> 
> Brand
> Rosewill
> 
> Model
> ROCF-11003
> 
> Spec
> 
> Type
> Case Fan
> 
> Compatibility
> Case
> 
> Fan Size
> 140mm
> 
> Bearing Type
> HDB (Hydro Dynamic Bearing)
> 
> RPM
> 600 -1300 RPM
> 
> Air Flow
> 89.55 CFM
> 
> Noise Level
> 12.5 -22.19 dB(A)
> 
> Power Connector
> 4 Pin
> 
> Color
> Black
> 
> Physical Spec
> 
> Dimensions
> 140 x 140 x 25mm
> 
> Features
> 
> Features
> Super silent 14cm fan with S-FLOW blades supplying 30% more airflow than a standard fan at the same speed. The greater performance combined with PWM automatic speed control allows the fan noise to be kept to a minimum.
> 
> Max static air pressure: 2.76 mm H2O
> 
> Voltage rating: 12V DC
> 
> Fan life expectancy: 50,000 hours


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I was cooling CPU & one GPU. My main reason going custom watercooling is for lower temps & quiet rig. I live in 30+ C ambient, so watercooling helps a lot. If you caught watercooling bug, you're not going to do it just for lower temps but mainly because you just want to water cool them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build but I hate the red. Just block the rad (or paint it blue or black), put the blue covers in those fans instead of the reds, and for gods sake get some sleeved cable extensions. [email protected] does a great job, for $45 you can get your 24pin, cpu, and 2x GPU cords custom sleeved in paracord. Lutro is like twice the price, and paracord looks a million times better then sleeving imo.
> 
> Some cable management needed at the bottom too, hide all those cables or sleeve them. You got this like $500, premo, really well done water loop, great aesthetic choices in colors and installation, and just these goofy unsleeved cables and red that just doesnt mesh with your build at all. Maybe if you had more red accessories, some red in the loop, you could pull off a blue and red thing, but right now you got a very very blue build with just the red sticking out like a sore thumb. Your motherboard is entirely blue, you gotta change that for red to work in there. Like paint the chipset red or something. I mean your loop you really did a great job with the fittings, choices, and tubing, it's just not quite there for silly reasons.
> 
> edit: maybe make that raystorm red, for starters, if you really want to do the red + blue thing (which i wouldnt really advise, im not sure ive ever seen anyone do it well, ive seen a few attempts that looked good though).
Click to expand...

Thank you for the criticism. I'm going to improve them of course. The red radiator because there was no stock for black HL Black Ice GTS 360 radiator when I got it, only red one & backorder can take months. I'm going to paint it black eventually. The target theme is blue & black. I'm also going to get custom sleeved cables. I just upgraded from single 5870 to two R9 290's & water blocks for them are being shipped to me. Either arriving tomorrow or next week. When I get over with the upgrade bug, I'll definitely getting the custom sleeved cables next.


----------



## kpoeticg

Those Rosewill's are Akasa Apache Knockoff's. Akasa Apache's are the lower speed/tougher (Military) plastic version of the Vipers.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Those Rosewill's are *Akasa Apache Knockoff*'s. Akasa Apache's are the lower speed/tougher (Military) plastic version of the Vipers.










, they're also cheaper and can save some dough when needing to buy quite a few of them (like ~20+)







. Other then that, some cheap medium Yates to avoid breaking the piggy







.

Also thought about some b-gears but I hear they can get noisy pretty quick (bearing needs more lube, ?).


----------



## kpoeticg

Well if it helps at all. I just tested those Vipers for ya. They start-up and shut-off at 3.5V. I was able to get em to increase speed and amps up to 13v, then i stopped raising it cuz i didn't wanna burn em out

I hear you about the cheaper, but knockoff fans usually don't turn out very well. Otherwise R4's would be the reason Scythe isn't marketing GT's anymore


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well if it helps at all. I just tested those Vipers for ya. They start-up and shut-off at 3.5V. I was able to get em to increase speed and amps up to 13v, then i stopped raising it cuz i didn't wanna burn em out


Thank you good sir
















wondering if the Rosewill Hyperborea's go that low







.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the Vipers are PWM too. That's why i had to test em to find the Voltage specs.

If you're going for budget, maybe Cougars or Silverstone AP's ?

NVM AP's are expensive too. Cougars or XSPC Xinrulians?

XSPC's are like 9 bux at FCPU

I'd love to see some1 try the new B Gears B-PWM's though. Maybe the PWM helps with the noise issues


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I have a MetroVAC.... blower... I am considering to use it to push all the water out from the loop...
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a MetroVAC or a MetroVAC DataVAC? There's a huge difference.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> so high cfm for single bank fan setups or high pressure for push/pull?
> 
> The way you explained it, i'd definitely recommend high SP fans. If you wanna run em at low speeds and still get great performance, P/P with SP fans is the way to go
> 
> Also that just reminded me that i made you a promise while i was away last week. I'm gonna look into that right now
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I meant DataVAC... ops


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well the Vipers are PWM too. That's why i had to test em to find the Voltage specs.
> 
> If you're going for budget, maybe Cougars or Silverstone AP's ?
> NVM AP's are expensive too. Cougars or XSPC Xinrulians?
> XSPC's are like 9 bux at FCPU
> 
> I'd love to see some1 try the new B Gears B-PWM's though. Maybe the PWM helps with the noise issues


I don't bother w/ pwm tbh. Its just a headache for me







. My Mix2 controller goes as low as 4.8v so as long as it has a start voltage around that, I'm good. Tempting to get some xigmatek just for the looks


----------



## kpoeticg

Also, Vipers are only 15 bux at FCPU. Not too bad

Those Xigmatek's look like they'd be TERRIBLE rad fans.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Also, Vipers are only 15 bux at FCPU. Not too bad


Out of stock and they're yellow







. The Rosewill are appealing since they're cheaper and I can run p/p to drop their voltage.


----------



## kpoeticg

Try out the Rosewills then. Maybe they'll work out great. Could always order a cpl to try em first


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Try out the Rosewills then. Maybe they'll work out great. Could always order a cpl to try em first


amazon had one left and I missed out on it







. I'm exploring new options for a successor to my current build. Would be interesting to take on the challenge of 140mm fans


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well the Vipers are PWM too. That's why i had to test em to find the Voltage specs.
> 
> If you're going for budget, maybe Cougars or Silverstone AP's ?
> NVM AP's are expensive too. Cougars or XSPC Xinrulians?
> XSPC's are like 9 bux at FCPU
> 
> I'd love to see some1 try the new B Gears B-PWM's though. Maybe the PWM helps with the noise issues


I'm interested in the bgears pwms also. Just wonder how they compare to the blasters, the blade styles are quite different.


----------



## szeged

i wanna get some of these for a monsta 560



too bad getting them to the states would cost more than the fans


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I was cooling CPU & one GPU. My main reason going custom watercooling is for lower temps & quiet rig. I live in 30+ C ambient, so watercooling helps a lot. If you caught watercooling bug, you're not going to do it just for lower temps but mainly because you just want to water cool them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


^^^^^^ Also went watercooling because of the high ambient temps we have in aus and that nasty humidty that follows it....Last year with my 670's in sli the temps in my room was a constant 30c ambient mostly thru out summer....My cards were constantly running hot,its summer here again now and now i can game with 40c degrees outside and still 30+ ambient and not have to worry about temps....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wanna get some of these for a monsta 560
> 
> 
> 
> too bad getting them to the states would cost more than the fans


?

edit: alpenfohns.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wanna get some of these for a monsta 560
> 
> 
> 
> too bad getting them to the states would cost more than the fans


You and me! I have managed to round myself up 20 ap15s however, so I am happy, but I would love some of those alpenfohns.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You and me! I have managed to round myself up 20 ap15s however, so I am happy, but I would love some of those alpenfohns.


if there were ap-15s for 140mm rads id definitely grab them







i already got roughly 55 ap-15 120s in my house


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wanna get some of these for a monsta 560
> 
> 
> 
> too bad getting them to the states would cost more than the fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> edit: alpenfohns.
Click to expand...

Damn right they are,great fans indeed!


----------



## wermad

eh, they're 120. Pondering a 140mm build


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> eh, they're 120. Pondering a 140mm build


they come in 140s also


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> eh, they're 120. Pondering a 140mm build


And? There are 140's that are identical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> eh, they're 120. Pondering a 140mm build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they come in 140s also
Click to expand...

this.

If i was looking for 140 fans then my first call would be here..


----------



## wermad

Why can't I find them on goog's? misspelled?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why can't I find them on goog's? misspelled?


http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en


----------



## wermad

A little







on the pressure reading please







. What's the difference between h2o vs mm^3 specifications? Thanks guys! Trying to manage this all while the shots of rum are sinking in







hehehehe


----------



## B NEGATIVE

They even do them in that nasty green you like.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They even do them in that nasty green you like.....


Green











I wouldn't mind going w/ black fans since I still have the FrozenQ res and I can easily go w/ primochill atomic green tube







.

edit: can always go w/ something like this:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They even do them in that nasty green you like.....
> 
> 
> 
> Green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mind going w/ black fans since I still have the FrozenQ res and I can easily go w/ primochill atomic green tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> edit: can always go w/ something like this:
Click to expand...

Gaze upon the greenery!


----------



## wermad

Is that 140mm???

edit: they don't make em in 140mm


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that 140mm???


yep


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yep


don't look like it:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> don't look like it:
Click to expand...

I could of sworn they had them in green....white was the only 140 they didnt have. Must be EOL?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Reason I'm asking is the low, and I stress, low selection of high pressure 140s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> These are appealing:


These look to be the same as the Akasa Apache Black 140mm fans. I have been using the Akasa fans on Alphacool XT45 and UT60 and they are working great, they are PWM fans. You can save a few bucks going with the Rosewill brand if you can find them.

Spec are the same.
Application PC case or heatsink fan
Dimension 140 X 140 X 25mm
Fan speed 600 -1300 RPM
Max airflow 89.55 CFM
Max static air pressure 2.76 mm H2O
Noise level 12.5 -22.19 dB(A)
Voltage rating 12V DC
Bearing HDB (Hydro Dynamic Bearing)
Fan life expectancy 50,000 hours
Connector 4pin PWM


----------



## nepToon

Hey guys and girls, a quick question: is it valid to put the drain port onto the pump, since there are two inlets im using one as drain port. Could this result in any problems? Just thought I'd ask before it fails and I cant drain my loop. The 90°C angle fitting is the OUT port.


----------



## sebar

I have a similar set up and I have not had any problems with mine.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Anyone have pics of a clear cap reservoir in use?
> 
> Preferably, a bitspower clear reservoir _with black fittings and dark blue or blue fluid, ideally mayhems pastel_?
> 
> I'm debating whether to go for the black cap version or clear cap version of the bitspower acrylic reservoir (bnegative seems to be a fan of their reservoirs). Now I see a few pics of the clear reservoir in usage _with silver_ fittings, and it looks super sharp, and I see pictures of the black reservoir _with black fittings_, and that also looks sharp.
> 
> I can't use fittings other then black because my block and rad are black with black barbs, so I think it'd be weird to put anything other then black on the fittings of the reservoir (for a while, i strongly contemplated a phobya balancer black nickel and using that dark gray, black chrome fittings, because my build has a ton of dark gray in it with the sleeving, custom acrylic work, and mobo, but i decided against it since it'd be weird for black rad, black block, gray res all in the same loop).
> 
> So, my current deliberation, of black cap reservoir + black fittings or clear cap + black fittings. i think a clear res would be more of a solid dark blue because of all the mayhems pastel I'm using in it... but still, just wanted to see if anyone had pics of a clear acrylic reservoir (even bay reservoirs or pump reservoirs where the fitting mates at a clear part is fine) with black fittings on it. I think I'm leaning towards clear reservoir, but wondering if just the black caps kinda stick out weird and a black cap would look better.
> 
> thanks. tldr looking for pics of black fittings on clear ports of a reservoir, ideally with blue fluid.


Don't have the pics you're looking for, but to expand a bit on what I mentioned, . . . . .

Because you're essentially needing to create what is effectively an AIO, to be able to cope with the coolant level in the res not being always above the pump, you have to be willing to make some compromises in your components choices to accept function over aesthetics.

The crucial element to having your plan, (where the coolant is not reliably above the pump) work, is being able to have a loop totally exclusive of air.

To do that, you'll need a flat top res with dip tubes, and a vent at the highest point in the loop, and one in the res top to vent air as it fills above the dip tubes.

Go with the Bitspower res with 3 port top and 2 dip tubes. Put the vent cap on top so you can reach it easily.

Once you get the system working reliably, _then_ you can go back and try changes for improved aesthetics.

The key here is to get a basic system working, before you dick around with it.

Your tubing will handle most of the thermal expansion/contraction of the coolant, but I would additionally, at least for the first testing, put a "T" at the top of the upper tube with a short bit of tubing sticking up vertically with a cap fitting on the tube. (about 4" should do what you need)

It would act as a vent / fill port once the res is full, and if you leave the upper portion of the vertical tubing as air space, then it would act as an accumulator as entrained air is expelled from the coolant, and also as a place where the air can't get back into the system from, and also provide room for expansion of the coolant as it heats up, taking the stress off the rest of your tubing having to do that.

It won't be real pretty, but get the concept working . . . . and then look at improving the looks.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wanna get some of these for a monsta 560
> 
> 
> 
> too bad getting them to the states would cost more than the fans


I've not ever ordered from them, but unless I'm reading this wrong, it looks like Amazon.co.uk delivers to the US for not totally unreasonable rates ...

North America Delivery Rates
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=11072991

And they seem to have those Alpenföhn Wing Boot Plus PWM fans in stock ...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alpenf%C3%B6hn-Wing-Clover-Edition-Black/dp/B009JHGYPU/

They are not cheap fans though. I guess it all depends on how bad do you want them.

edit:
Or was it the 140mm version you was after ...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alpenf%C3%B6hn-Clover-Edition-Boost-Black/dp/B009MBTJBO/


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *note*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just gonna share my latest build. For a case as tall as two soda cans, I think I did well..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [\spoiler]


Can you tell me where u got that sleaving


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the pressure reading please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What's the difference between h2o vs mm^3 specifications? Thanks guys! Trying to manage this all while the shots of rum are sinking in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehehehe


Well, inches H2O or mm H2O refers to the amount of pressure applied to something by a column of water due to gravity. For example 1 inch H2O would refer to a 1 inch high column of water, which applies 0.036 psi of pressure. Sort of an arcane measurement system but quite useful for low pressures.

mm^3 on the other hand, I'm not exactly sure... 1 mm^3 would be 0.001 mL volume so I don't see how exactly it would relate to pressure.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've not ever ordered from them, but unless I'm reading this wrong, it looks like Amazon.co.uk delivers to the US for not totally unreasonable rates ...
> 
> North America Delivery Rates
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=11072991
> 
> And they seem to have those Alpenföhn Wing Boot Plus PWM fans in stock ...
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alpenf%C3%B6hn-Wing-Clover-Edition-Black/dp/B009JHGYPU/
> 
> They are not cheap fans though. I guess it all depends on how bad do you want them.
> 
> edit:
> Or was it the 140mm version you was after ...
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alpenf%C3%B6hn-Clover-Edition-Boost-Black/dp/B009MBTJBO/


I went through checkout and it's $40 a fan at that point for me. I would probably go with the prolimatech metal fans at that price.


----------



## Skuli

I've got a question that I hope you folks can help me with.

Along the bottom of the photo above, I'm planning a straight run of acrylic between my two radiators at opposite ends of my "box". The tube needs to slide into the hole in the "fan wall" and then into the C47 bitspower connector on the radiator. The radiators are mounted in frames that allow them to slide down into place, so I can remove them to get the tube into place initially. Then I can drop in one radiator and insert the tube. Then I'm at a point where I'm not sure how to proceed. There's about a 21" gap between the "fan walls". Is the acrylic flexible enough for me to pull it up in the middle (like an inch worm) and then drop in the other radiator? I could either leave the connector on the radiator or start with it on the end of the tube which might require less flex in the tube. But then will the connector rotate easily enough on the tube to allow me to screw it in?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Gaze upon the greenery!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dang, I am digging that fan. I may just try to grab three of them later on.







I don't care if I have to import from Germany. Had to deal with the crazy import prices before when ordering CDs from there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a question that I hope you folks can help me with.
> 
> Along the bottom of the photo above, I'm planning a straight run of acrylic between my two radiators at opposite ends of my "box". The tube needs to slide into the hole in the "fan wall" and then into the C47 bitspower connector on the radiator. The radiators are mounted in frames that allow them to slide down into place, so I can remove them to get the tube into place initially. Then I can drop in one radiator and insert the tube. Then I'm at a point where I'm not sure how to proceed. There's about a 21" gap between the "fan walls". Is the acrylic flexible enough for me to pull it up in the middle (like an inch worm) and then drop in the other radiator? I could either leave the connector on the radiator or start with it on the end of the tube which might require less flex in the tube. But then will the connector rotate easily enough on the tube to allow me to screw it in?


If the tube has a smear of silicone grease then it will rotate easily,watch for the fitting unscrewing tho.

Are you on the Star Citizen forums?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Gaze upon the greenery!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dang, I am digging that fan. I may just try to grab three of them later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't care if I have to import from Germany. Had to deal with the crazy import prices before when ordering CDs from there.
Click to expand...

Specialtech.co.uk are cheap and ship to the US. Remember to create an account for the US pricing.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a question that I hope you folks can help me with.
> 
> Along the bottom of the photo above, I'm planning a straight run of acrylic between my two radiators at opposite ends of my "box". The tube needs to slide into the hole in the "fan wall" and then into the C47 bitspower connector on the radiator. The radiators are mounted in frames that allow them to slide down into place, so I can remove them to get the tube into place initially. Then I can drop in one radiator and insert the tube. Then I'm at a point where I'm not sure how to proceed. There's about a 21" gap between the "fan walls". Is the acrylic flexible enough for me to pull it up in the middle (like an inch worm) and then drop in the other radiator? I could either leave the connector on the radiator or start with it on the end of the tube which might require less flex in the tube. But then will the connector rotate easily enough on the tube to allow me to screw it in?


At 21+ inches there will be some flex in the acrylic depending on what size tube you are using. I am not sure if it will be enough for this application, I suggest you try it out first to see how well the acrylic bends cold. As for the C47 I would suggest to attach to the tube first and then thread it into the rad.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh man I love when something won't fit or work out per your original thought/plan but because of that you end up finding an even better (looking) way to do it. Happened a few times with my present semi-build.


----------



## sebar

I decided to share my experience of making a CPU water block to replace a defective Alphacool Nexxxos XP3 Light water block. I purchased the Alphacool block over the summer for my Close Quarters build and the water block had a small leak from the inlet port on the water block. Performance PCS worked with me to try and get a replacement from the manufacturer. Alphacool was supposed to send out a replacement but I still have not received anything. I grew tired of waiting to finish my build so I decided to try and make an acrylic top for the block.









I chemically welded three pieces of acrylic together and sealed the acrylic to the copper heat plate with some silicone rated to 400 degrees.





The end result looks and works well. I placed the inlet and outlet in the same location as the Alphacool block because I had already bent the copper pipe to fit. I have done a range of testing and even got the CPU to 5GHz.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thats a repost Sebar....You have already posted this in this thread.

Why is the acrylic black when the previous shots show clear?


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If the tube has a smear of silicone grease then it will rotate easily,watch for the fitting unscrewing tho.
> 
> Are you on the Star Citizen forums?
> Specialtech.co.uk are cheap and ship to the US. Remember to create an account for the US pricing.


Thanks for the advice about the silicone grease. I'll pick up some while I'm out today.

Yep, Star Citizen is the reason I'm building a PC again. Haven't built my own in many years.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> At 21+ inches there will be some flex in the acrylic depending on what size tube you are using. I am not sure if it will be enough for this application, I suggest you try it out first to see how well the acrylic bends cold. As for the C47 I would suggest to attach to the tube first and then thread it into the rad.


I'm using 10/12 acrylic tubing. It seems flexible enough to give me a few millimeters. With B Negative's silicone grease suggestion, I think it might work out. I'll know by this evening.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If the tube has a smear of silicone grease then it will rotate easily,watch for the fitting unscrewing tho.
> 
> Are you on the Star Citizen forums?
> Specialtech.co.uk are cheap and ship to the US. Remember to create an account for the US pricing.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice about the silicone grease. I'll pick up some while I'm out today.
> 
> Yep, Star Citizen is the reason I'm building a PC again. Haven't built my own in many years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> At 21+ inches there will be some flex in the acrylic depending on what size tube you are using. I am not sure if it will be enough for this application, I suggest you try it out first to see how well the acrylic bends cold. As for the C47 I would suggest to attach to the tube first and then thread it into the rad.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm using 10/12 acrylic tubing. It seems flexible enough to give me a few millimeters. With B Negative's silicone grease suggestion, I think it might work out. I'll know by this evening.
Click to expand...

There is a Skuli that posts there,im was wondering if you are one and the same?


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a Skuli that posts there,im was wondering if you are one and the same?


Sorry, yes, that's me. I lurk here and on SC's hardware forum.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats a repost Sebar....You have already posted this in this thread.
> 
> Why is the acrylic black when the previous shots show clear?


Sorry, I dont remember posting about the troubles I had with the CPU block. Do you need me to edit the post?

I painted the clear acrylic to match the case paint. This was painted with black PlastiDip.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Can you tell me where u got that sleaving


It's MDPC-X vanilla sands, from the website where you presumably borrowed the picture at the start of your videos


----------



## pc-illiterate

pretty sure mm^3 refers to airflow aka cfm


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's MDPC-X vanilla sands, from the website where you presumably borrowed the picture at the start of your videos


Oh I didnt know you could buy from there, !! +1 rep, and amazing build man, I'm doing my best to get my own version of that build, however the picture is only at the start of my gold rush build as its what i'm going for my other build logs have pics of its own build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats a repost Sebar....You have already posted this in this thread.
> 
> Why is the acrylic black when the previous shots show clear?
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I dont remember posting about the troubles I had with the CPU block. Do you need me to edit the post?
> 
> I painted the clear acrylic to match the case paint. This was painted with black PlastiDip.
Click to expand...

Nah,its fine,leave as is,its home brew,I like that.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *note*
> 
> Just gonna share my latest build. For a case as tall as two soda cans, I think I did well..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great job! I'm loving that black and gold color scheme!


----------



## djriful

Tastes good...


----------



## stickg1

Man oh man, I love me some PPCs.com, placed an order about an hour ago. Just got the packed and shipped notification on my phone. Should be here Saturday using regular old USPS Priority.

I didn't get anything super cool, just some X1 coolant, purple dye, temp LED display, extra tubing and fittings, and some filter material. Should satisfy my addiction for a couple days at least, I hope. Then I'll hit it hard with a PWM pump, new radiator for up front, and all the materials to sleeve me some nasty cables. I'm thinking black, yellow, grey, and purple. Yeah it sounds like an odd combination but according to the complimentary colors wheel from high school art class it should be pretty easy on the eyes.


----------



## Rickles

http://www.colourlovers.com/

But I am too lazy to sleeve, or actually paint parts of my build.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Man oh man, I love me some PPCs.com, placed an order about an hour ago. Just got the packed and shipped notification on my phone. Should be here Saturday using regular old USPS Priority.
> 
> I didn't get anything super cool, just some X1 coolant, purple dye, temp LED display, extra tubing and fittings, and some filter material. Should satisfy my addiction for a couple days at least, I hope. Then I'll hit it hard with a PWM pump, new radiator for up front, and all the materials to sleeve me some nasty cables. I'm thinking black, yellow, grey, and purple. Yeah it sounds like an odd combination but according to the complimentary colors wheel from high school art class it should be pretty easy on the eyes.


I've always thought yellow and purple look good together. And black and grey go with everything. I think it'll look real classy.
You can try out different patterns and combinations with the ChooseMyPC Sleeving Prototyper to get an idea of how it will look and to develop a plan of attack


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Man oh man, I love me some PPCs.com, placed an order about an hour ago. Just got the packed and shipped notification on my phone. Should be here Saturday using regular old USPS Priority.


Agreed. The only thing that would be better is if I lived near there and could walk in. Oh my god...or maybe work there!

Yeah Duke really hooked me up recently.


----------



## Archea47

Building my first loop this weekend (just CPU w/ one 280mm ST30 and one 240mm UT60) ...

I'm using barbed fittings - should I lubricate the o-rings when installing them? If so, is water good enough?

I imagine hand tight + 1/16 turn for a plexi EK block?

Also - does it actually affect my CPU temp if I hit the NB & VRM blocks before the CPU? I'm going custom loop to increase CPU cooling and don't want to cool the NB and VRM first if it has any detriment, but going to the NB first has the added benefit of a bit less tubing in the system


----------



## CroakV

Redid my loop this week, added some more Monsoon bling bits; replaced the black chrome plugs on my SLI bridge with matte black and red plugs, got some red end caps for the black rotaries (and my CMOS battery!), and used a few more red rotaries mainly because I ran out of black ones this time.

Why did I run out? Because I broke a lot of flow-restriction rules and used a crap ton more rotaries this time, to get straighter tube runs, but temps are the same, and I like the looks a lot better. Was a cast-iron ***** to bleed though.

Also ditched my Corsair SP120 QE PWM fans and went with Phobya NB-eLoop 1600s (nice sound improvement and a better colour match with my build), rotated my AX240, replaced my XSPC D5 dual bay res that was sitting on the case floor on the other side of the bulkhead with a proper XSPC D5 pump top, added a flow rate sensor, and replaced my old G1/4 temp sensor plug in the bay res with a Phobya inline sensor coming out of the AX240.

Here's the old loop and fan setup:



And here it is now:


----------



## Hefner

Guys, I got a little question. I've got a EK PE 240 and a 120 and I originally wanted to grab some corsair SP fans for them, however, the performance of the nb-eloops is so much better that I want them. I know that you cannot use these fans in pull but I am planning to put dust filters in front of the fans. Would that be a problem?

Here is a pic from my build in progress:


Thanks


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Can you tell me where u got that sleaving


FCPU is were I'm getting mine for my gold build,funny how I haven't seen any until now.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19282/cab-1455/ModSmart_Kobra_Cable_MAX_24-Pin_Motherboard_Extension_Cables_-_24_-_Desert.html?id=bxcRJSG3&mv_pc=243


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Redid my loop this week, added some more Monsoon bling bits; replaced the black chrome plugs on my SLI bridge with matte black and red plugs, got some red end caps for the black rotaries (and my CMOS battery!), and used a few more red rotaries mainly because I ran out of black ones this time.
> 
> Why did I run out? Because I broke a lot of flow-restriction rules and used a crap ton more rotaries this time, to get straighter tube runs, but temps are the same, and I like the looks a lot better. Was a cast-iron ***** to bleed though.
> 
> Also ditched my Corsair SP120 QE PWM fans and went with Phobya NB-eLoop 1600s (nice sound improvement and a better colour match with my build), rotated my AX240, replaced my XSPC D5 dual bay res that was sitting on the case floor on the other side of the bulkhead with a proper XSPC D5 pump top, added a flow rate sensor, and replaced my old G1/4 temp sensor plug in the bay res with a Phobya inline sensor coming out of the AX240.
> 
> Here's the old loop and fan setup:
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is now:


the fans do u have on ur new build ( rad fans)


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> the fans do u have on ur new build ( rad fans)


They are noiseblocker eloop

http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8


----------



## rickyman0319

is that the red NB eloop from Phobya?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> They are noiseblocker eloop
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8


Technically yes, but I believe those are the phobya branded red ones......


----------



## rickyman0319

I am thinking to buy some more with my SM8 case. I know I need 4mm foam for Push/Pull to work. I am wondering will it work with ( fan-drop in - radiator - fan) or not. do u guys know will it work or not?


----------



## stickg1

Anyone using purple in their build? Whether it be coolant, paint, sleeving, etc? I've been looking at colors for the past hour trying to figure out how I want to go about this and I would really like to see some in action.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone using purple in their build? Whether it be coolant, paint, sleeving, etc? I've been looking at colors for the past hour trying to figure out how I want to go about this and I would really like to see some in action.


Look up purple chimera as built by Snef here on the forums.

You can also find the build in the "case build" section of the www.caselabs-store.com at the bottom of the page where the S3 builds are


----------



## derickwm

I keep trying to throw splashes of purple into mine but nobody else seems to think it's a good idea


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Look up purple chimera as built by Kier here on the forums.
> 
> You can also find the build in the "case build" section of the www.caselabs-store.com at the bottom of the page where the S3 builds are


*whispers*
Hey! Psst! That was Snef, not Kier. But I can understand confusing the two, as they are some of the greatest modders out there.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I keep trying to throw splashes of purple into mine but nobody else seems to think it's a good idea


i think you should do some pepto bismol pink


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> *whispers*
> Hey! Psst! That was Snef, not Kier. But I can understand confusing the two, as they are some of the greatest modders out there.


Ooops, edited.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I keep trying to throw splashes of purple into mine but nobody else seems to think it's a good idea


Either my wifes build or htpc will be purple. I think it looks great and there's not a whole lot of purple builds. I say do it


----------



## Ithanul

Well, finally got this painted to what I wanted.


----------



## Skuli

First tube installed!

Thanks B NEGATIVE for the tip on the silicone grease! That made it possible to get the tube in place. I had to shorten it three times but it's a perfect tight fit between radiators now.

For those that didn't see my question earlier today, what made this tube tricky was the tube goes through two "fan walls" and then into the radiators. To get the tube in, I had to cold bend the tube in the middle like an inch worm and then slide the radiator into place and then screw in the connector as I released the tube.

Tomorrow the real bending begins.

Here's a photo taken in the dark with just the LED strip lights on to see how the acrylic looks. The tube is on the right side.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Day 1 bending acrylic has got me stressed out. Went through 10ft. And still can't get the bends quite right.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I imagine this is a process that is going to take a lot of trial and error, especially for aesthetic perfection like I know you (or I) would be going for. Just stick with it and try not to worry about how much acrylic you are using. When I do mine I'm going to buy a ton of the stuff just so I can throw it out without any worries...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Day 1 bending acrylic has got me stressed out. Went through 10ft. And still can't get the bends quite right.


Good job... I'm looking to do the same thing in a week or two.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I imagine this is a process that is going to take a lot of trial and error, especially for aesthetic perfection like I know you (or I) would be going for. Just stick with it and try not to worry about how much acrylic you are using. When I do mine I'm going to buy a ton of the stuff just so I can throw it out without any worries...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Good job... I'm looking to do the same thing in a week or two.


It's not how much tube I'm using, the tiring part is cocking the tube for each bend.

I'll try again tomorrow. Gotta figure out how to get exact measurements, lengths after the bend are throwing me off. Ughhh so frustrating.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I keep trying to throw splashes of purple into mine but nobody else seems to think it's a good idea


Purple is one of my favorite colors. I'd do it if I had the money for another build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Day 1 bending acrylic has got me stressed out. Went through 10ft. And still can't get the bends quite right.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is why I gave up. Its really challenging to get the bends right. You can always just throw a ton of angled fittings/adapters to run straight plumbs. Here's hoping you can best this







. I went through all 24' and just threw in the towel.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Day 1 bending acrylic has got me stressed out. Went through 10ft. And still can't get the bends quite right.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just stick with it man. It is challenging at first and can be frustrating. Looks like you are getting there tho. Once you get a couple runs in place and get the hang of where to start making the bends, it gets easier









If it makes ya feel any better, I went thru a good 10-20ft on my first couple bends too


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

I'm really considering going hard acrylic,but if you guys who have been building pc much longer than i have, are having/had problems in the beginning doing runs i may be taking up more than i can handle....So let me throw this question in there,for a simple build like mine (will be adding another rad 240mm) whats the recommended amount of tubing i should get (just to make sure i dnt run out)....?


----------



## rickyman0319

what 140mm fans recommend for Alphacool rad?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm really considering going hard acrylic,but if you guys who have been building pc much longer than i have, are having/had problems in the beginning doing runs i may be taking up more than i can handle....So let me throw this question in there,for a simple build like mine (will be adding another rad 240mm) whats the recommended amount of tubing i should get (just to make sure i dnt run out)....?


This was my first WC build ever but I ended up going acrylic due to all the plasticizer talk, its challenging for the first day or 2 but after that I started getting it down. I got my tubes from Tap plastics though so it was like 19$ total for 42 feet I still have about half if not more leftover.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This was my first WC build ever but I ended up going acrylic due to all the plasticizer talk, its challenging for the first day or 2 but after that I started getting it down. I got my tubes from Tap plastics though so it was like 19$ total for 42 feet I still have about half if not more leftover.


Hmmm, I am debating buying some acrylic tubing from them to practice with before I use my green Primochill tubing. Considering the nearest Tap Plastics is only 30mins away from me.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what 140mm fans recommend for Alphacool rad?


I asked this a bit ago. seems like high pressure ones are the way to go. I'm liking Rosewill Hyperborea which are a cheaper version of the Akasa Apache. Pretty good pressure and they're ~$10 a piece.

If you have the cash, importing some Alpenfohn fans, Noisblockers, et al.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> It's not how much tube I'm using, the tiring part is cocking the tube for each bend.
> 
> I'll try again tomorrow. Gotta figure out how to get exact measurements, lengths after the bend are throwing me off. Ughhh so frustrating.


Have you tried using your bending chord to measure?

It's malleable enough to route the same way you want the tubing to go, then just mark off on the chord with pen or pencil your start, finish and bending points?

Singularity Computers explained it pretty well in his latest video.

Don't give up!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is why I gave up. Its really challenging to get the bends right. You can always just throw a ton of angled fittings/adapters to run straight plumbs. Here's hoping you can best this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . *I went through all 24' and just threw in the towel*.


Arrrggghhh, don't say that... You and B Negative are suppose to be my inspiration for switching over to acrylic. I was going to initially go with fittings for my angles, but then the cost would have been too much to bear, and my build wouldn't get done until later on this year. So, I ended up buying around the same 24 feet of acrylic tubing to work with.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This was my first WC build ever but I ended up going acrylic due to all the plasticizer talk, its challenging for the first day or 2 but after that I started getting it down. I got my tubes from Tap plastics though so it was like 19$ total for 42 feet I still have about half if not more leftover.


I'm in aus so it may be alot cheaper for me to just get the primo brand here,that to get the Tap plastics....Did you get your replacement rad back in yet,how is the build progressing....?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Day 1 bending acrylic has got me stressed out. Went through 10ft. And still can't get the bends quite right.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks really great


----------



## erayser

I ordered 10 feet of Primochill black acrylic, and I eye-balled all my measurements. I did all my bending free-hand over the heatgun with cotton gloves. My hands were cramping from slowly bending the acrylic tight without kinking. I'm sure it would have been a lot easier with the monsoon bending kit... but I couldn't wait for them to release it... and I wanted to finish my build.

Here is my entire loop...



...And here is my leftovers...



Most of my waste was from keeping the length long on both ends... so I have room to cut them to size. I think I'll use the monsoon bending kit next time... but I could see myself saving money and free-hand it again.


----------



## joejoe69

I personally like to use angle fittings with acrylic when dealing with multiple bends because it keeps all heights and bends uniform and looks better in my opinion. I just feel that no matter how good of a multi-bender you are, human error is always there and a kink or crookedness can easily be spotted.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

God damn you guys are doing awesome builds with this Primochill acrylic stuff























Is it hard to melt and shape and anyone have any issues with the barbs leaking or tube cracking?

Tempted to grab some white tube with black barbs I think that would look sexy


----------



## djriful




----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is why I gave up. Its really challenging to get the bends right. You can always just throw a ton of angled fittings/adapters to run straight plumbs. Here's hoping you can best this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I went through all 24' and just threw in the towel.


I'm getting the feeling right now. If I run out of tubing, (24ft) I will just use regular hose.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just stick with it man. It is challenging at first and can be frustrating. Looks like you are getting there tho. Once you get a couple runs in place and get the hang of where to start making the bends, it gets easier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it makes ya feel any better, I went thru a good 10-20ft on my first couple bends too


I just want my computer running again


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

@ Aussiejuggalo....Not barbs but special compression fittings for the hard acrylic....PCCG has them in stock....

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_300_1320&products_id=26498&zenid=530be3b0b44de880d2f5969b35fe0d2d

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_300_1320&products_id=24136&zenid=530be3b0b44de880d2f5969b35fe0d2d


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm getting the feeling right now. If I run out of tubing, (24ft) I will just use regular hose.
> I just want my computer running again


I know how you feel bro. I've been tearin' up some acrylic tubing tonight myself. I don't have enough left to make any more mistakes.







It does get easier the more you do it. Kinda wish I bought some angle fittings now. lol


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> @ Aussiejuggalo....Not barbs but special compression fittings for the hard acrylic....PCCG has them in stock....
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_300_1320&products_id=26498&zenid=530be3b0b44de880d2f5969b35fe0d2d
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_300_1320&products_id=24136&zenid=530be3b0b44de880d2f5969b35fe0d2d


Ooops thats what I ment


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good looking rig sir!!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> I personally like to use angle fittings with acrylic when dealing with multiple bends because it keeps all heights and bends uniform and looks better in my opinion. I just feel that no matter how good of a multi-bender you are, human error is always there and a kink or crookedness can easily be spotted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And to me, what was done in those pics looks like h3ll, I just think those tubes look like they got warped somehow, and then left that way.

I actually think the all formed bend way looks great, I feel that if you are going to use fittings for any angles, that the tubing looks better as straight runs then between those fittings. Mixing the bend/fittings way just looks funny as can be.

But that is why there is options, everyone likes it differently.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks gorgeous! I personally would be freaking out using C48's though, that single o ring has me paranoid. Do you have a new build log? I looked at the Neptune log in your profile but it doesn't look like it's been updated.

EDIT: @ jimhans, I see where you're coming from, but I think the third picture puts in into perspective and looks great.


----------



## fast_fate

agree and disagree with all the comments so far on the acrylic lines.
Everyone is aiming for a goal when they set out to run some acrylic.
If it doesn't turn out as they hoped - it'll usually get tossed.

I like square straight runs, but not diagonal, personally I like to see them kept vertical or horizontal.
BUT by far I prefer viewing and doing multi-bend lines.
It does take time and patience, which is why we all appreciate when some fine examples are given up for our viewing pleaseure.

I could never rest easy using single o-ring fittings though, except the compressions such as Primochills.

Different builds can suit the different acrylic runs too.


Spoiler: some bending


----------



## Belial

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Anyone have pics of a clear cap reservoir in use?
> 
> Preferably, a bitspower clear reservoir _with black fittings and dark blue or blue fluid, ideally mayhems pastel_?
> 
> I'm debating whether to go for the black cap version or clear cap version of the bitspower acrylic reservoir (bnegative seems to be a fan of their reservoirs). Now I see a few pics of the clear reservoir in usage _with silver_ fittings, and it looks super sharp, and I see pictures of the black reservoir _with black fittings_, and that also looks sharp.
> 
> I can't use fittings other then black because my block and rad are black with black barbs, so I think it'd be weird to put anything other then black on the fittings of the reservoir (for a while, i strongly contemplated a phobya balancer black nickel and using that dark gray, black chrome fittings, because my build has a ton of dark gray in it with the sleeving, custom acrylic work, and mobo, but i decided against it since it'd be weird for black rad, black block, gray res all in the same loop).
> 
> So, my current deliberation, of black cap reservoir + black fittings or clear cap + black fittings. i think a clear res would be more of a solid dark blue because of all the mayhems pastel I'm using in it... but still, just wanted to see if anyone had pics of a clear acrylic reservoir (even bay reservoirs or pump reservoirs where the fitting mates at a clear part is fine) with black fittings on it. I think I'm leaning towards clear reservoir, but wondering if just the black caps kinda stick out weird and a black cap would look better.
> 
> thanks. tldr looking for pics of black fittings on clear ports of a reservoir, ideally with blue fluid.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't have the pics you're looking for, but to expand a bit on what I mentioned, . . . . .
> 
> Because you're essentially needing to create what is effectively an AIO, to be able to cope with the coolant level in the res not being always above the pump, you have to be willing to make some compromises in your components choices to accept function over aesthetics.
> 
> The crucial element to having your plan, (where the coolant is not reliably above the pump) work, is being able to have a loop totally exclusive of air.
> 
> To do that, you'll need a flat top res with dip tubes, and a vent at the highest point in the loop, and one in the res top to vent air as it fills above the dip tubes.
> 
> Go with the Bitspower res with 3 port top and 2 dip tubes. Put the vent cap on top so you can reach it easily.
> 
> Once you get the system working reliably, _then_ you can go back and try changes for improved aesthetics.
> 
> The key here is to get a basic system working, before you dick around with it.
> 
> Your tubing will handle most of the thermal expansion/contraction of the coolant, but I would additionally, at least for the first testing, put a "T" at the top of the upper tube with a short bit of tubing sticking up vertically with a cap fitting on the tube. (about 4" should do what you need)
> 
> It would act as a vent / fill port once the res is full, and if you leave the upper portion of the vertical tubing as air space, then it would act as an accumulator as entrained air is expelled from the coolant, and also as a place where the air can't get back into the system from, and also provide room for expansion of the coolant as it heats up, taking the stress off the rest of your tubing having to do that.
> 
> It won't be real pretty, but get the concept working . . . . and then look at improving the looks.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...





So isn't that the same thing as just using dip tubes basically? Making the inlet and outlet holes in the res far below the air? If I used tubing instead of dip tubes, as dip tubes, I could extend the tubes far below the air to make sure it never got air into it. I'm probably going to go with the bitspower res anyways (larger res, i guess the clear acrylic is a bonus)


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> And to me, what was done in those pics looks like h3ll, I just think those tubes look like they got warped somehow, and then left that way.
> 
> I actually think the all formed bend way looks great, I feel that if you are going to use fittings for any angles, that the tubing looks better as straight runs then between those fittings. Mixing the bend/fittings way just looks funny as can be.
> 
> But that is why there is options, everyone likes it differently.


I don't think tight bends can be done like that with acrylic alone, EVER!! Even with all the jigs sold on the market, there is NO way.

The water in it, coupled with the angle of the pic taken messes with the light going through it and makes it look the way you think.

But everyone's eyes have different perceptions for straight or crooked.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> I don't think tight bends can be done like that with acrylic alone, EVER!! Even with all the jigs sold on the market, there is NO way.
> 
> The water in it, coupled with the angle of the pic taken messes with the light going through it and makes it look the way you think.
> 
> But everyone's eyes have different perceptions for straight or crooked.


Hmm, I will have to try on my next build, its a couple of weeks away.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That looks gorgeous! I personally would be freaking out using C48's though, that single o ring has me paranoid. Do you have a new build log? I looked at the Neptune log in your profile but it doesn't look like it's been updated.


Yeah, I measure 5mm depth for C48s and 10mm depth for C47s so I got it down pretty good without any leaks except that freak accident I had with the molex splitter. I haven't started a build log for 2.0, not until I'm done. I've mostly been posting my progress on WestCoastMods'FB page. I'm liking the progress on yours, lurking like a ninja!!


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hmm, I will have to try on my next build, its a couple of weeks away.


Here's a top view of the same setup. The RAM to the CPU block is an offset bend going right into a tight 90° bend. Very diffictult, no slants or 45° bends, no jigs, 3hrs for just all 3, and a whole stick gone lol.




Good luck. Please post it when complete!!


----------



## Wolfsaibot

Mine is a little bit crazy but it works for me.

http://www.overclock.net/image/id/7728904/width/900/height/900/flags/LL


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> It's not how much tube I'm using, the tiring part is cocking the tube for each bend.
> 
> I'll try again tomorrow. Gotta figure out how to get exact measurements, lengths after the bend are throwing me off. Ughhh so frustrating.


Did you try using the silicon for measurements? It's an awesome tip I got from the singularity PCs bending video. It's also a good idea to leave the silicon inside after bending and check if the bend fits in your system first, if not you can reheat and adjust.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> It's not how much tube I'm using, the tiring part is cocking the tube for each bend.
> 
> I'll try again tomorrow. *Gotta figure out how to get exact measurements, lengths after the bend are throwing me off.* Ughhh so frustrating.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try using the silicon for measurements? It's an awesome tip I got from the singularity PCs bending video. It's also a good idea to leave the silicon inside after bending and check if the bend fits in your system first, if not you can reheat and adjust.
Click to expand...

Its on the first page of my bending guide he used.....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Anyone have pics of a clear cap reservoir in use?
> 
> Preferably, a bitspower clear reservoir _with black fittings and dark blue or blue fluid, ideally mayhems pastel_?
> 
> I'm debating whether to go for the black cap version or clear cap version of the bitspower acrylic reservoir (bnegative seems to be a fan of their reservoirs). Now I see a few pics of the clear reservoir in usage _with silver_ fittings, and it looks super sharp, and I see pictures of the black reservoir _with black fittings_, and that also looks sharp.
> 
> I can't use fittings other then black because my block and rad are black with black barbs, so I think it'd be weird to put anything other then black on the fittings of the reservoir (for a while, i strongly contemplated a phobya balancer black nickel and using that dark gray, black chrome fittings, because my build has a ton of dark gray in it with the sleeving, custom acrylic work, and mobo, but i decided against it since it'd be weird for black rad, black block, gray res all in the same loop).
> 
> So, my current deliberation, of black cap reservoir + black fittings or clear cap + black fittings. i think a clear res would be more of a solid dark blue because of all the mayhems pastel I'm using in it... but still, just wanted to see if anyone had pics of a clear acrylic reservoir (even bay reservoirs or pump reservoirs where the fitting mates at a clear part is fine) with black fittings on it. I think I'm leaning towards clear reservoir, but wondering if just the black caps kinda stick out weird and a black cap would look better.
> 
> thanks. tldr looking for pics of black fittings on clear ports of a reservoir, ideally with blue fluid.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't have the pics you're looking for, but to expand a bit on what I mentioned, . . . . .
> 
> Because you're essentially needing to create what is effectively an AIO, to be able to cope with the coolant level in the res not being always above the pump, you have to be willing to make some compromises in your components choices to accept function over aesthetics.
> 
> The crucial element to having your plan, (where the coolant is not reliably above the pump) work, is being able to have a loop totally exclusive of air.
> 
> To do that, you'll need a flat top res with dip tubes, and a vent at the highest point in the loop, and one in the res top to vent air as it fills above the dip tubes.
> 
> Go with the Bitspower res with 3 port top and 2 dip tubes. Put the vent cap on top so you can reach it easily.
> 
> Once you get the system working reliably, _then_ you can go back and try changes for improved aesthetics.
> 
> The key here is to get a basic system working, before you dick around with it.
> 
> Your tubing will handle most of the thermal expansion/contraction of the coolant, but I would additionally, at least for the first testing, put a "T" at the top of the upper tube with a short bit of tubing sticking up vertically with a cap fitting on the tube. (about 4" should do what you need)
> 
> It would act as a vent / fill port once the res is full, and if you leave the upper portion of the vertical tubing as air space, then it would act as an accumulator as entrained air is expelled from the coolant, and also as a place where the air can't get back into the system from, and also provide room for expansion of the coolant as it heats up, taking the stress off the rest of your tubing having to do that.
> 
> It won't be real pretty, but get the concept working . . . . and then look at improving the looks.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So isn't that the same thing as just using dip tubes basically? Making the inlet and outlet holes in the res far below the air? If I used tubing instead of dip tubes, as dip tubes, I could extend the tubes far below the air to make sure it never got air into it. I'm probably going to go with the bitspower res anyways (larger res, i guess the clear acrylic is a bonus)
Click to expand...

Not exactly . . . .

The chance that you'll actually get ALL the air out of the system, especially at first, is pretty slim. Some little pockets just take forever to collapse, they just aren't big enough to negatively effect cooling to a noticeable degree..

In a normal setup, that is not a problem.

For you it is, and here's why;

When your system is off, if there's an un-collapsed air bubble higher than the res level, the the water above the res, being pulled down by gravity, compresses the air in the res, increasing the loop volume, and allowing the bubble to expand and maybe move.

If it gets to the pump, you're screwed.

When the pump starts, it won't move coolant, will run dry and burn, plus the system overheats from no circulation.

That's the worst case scenario, but it can happen, and it could be on the first restart or the millionth restart, you have to design out that possibility in the initial plan.

Hence my admonishment to have no air space in the res.

But it is your build, and your learning experience.

A smart man learns from his mistakes and failures, a smarter man, learns from the mistakes and failures of others as well.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Anyone have pics of a clear cap reservoir in use?
> 
> Preferably, a bitspower clear reservoir _with black fittings and dark blue or blue fluid, ideally mayhems pastel_?
> 
> I'm debating whether to go for the black cap version or clear cap version of the bitspower acrylic reservoir (bnegative seems to be a fan of their reservoirs). Now I see a few pics of the clear reservoir in usage _with silver_ fittings, and it looks super sharp, and I see pictures of the black reservoir _with black fittings_, and that also looks sharp.
> 
> I can't use fittings other then black because my block and rad are black with black barbs, so I think it'd be weird to put anything other then black on the fittings of the reservoir (for a while, i strongly contemplated a phobya balancer black nickel and using that dark gray, black chrome fittings, because my build has a ton of dark gray in it with the sleeving, custom acrylic work, and mobo, but i decided against it since it'd be weird for black rad, black block, gray res all in the same loop).
> 
> So, my current deliberation, of black cap reservoir + black fittings or clear cap + black fittings. i think a clear res would be more of a solid dark blue because of all the mayhems pastel I'm using in it... but still, just wanted to see if anyone had pics of a clear acrylic reservoir (even bay reservoirs or pump reservoirs where the fitting mates at a clear part is fine) with black fittings on it. I think I'm leaning towards clear reservoir, but wondering if just the black caps kinda stick out weird and a black cap would look better.
> 
> thanks. tldr looking for pics of black fittings on clear ports of a reservoir, ideally with blue fluid.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't have the pics you're looking for, but to expand a bit on what I mentioned, . . . . .
> 
> Because you're essentially needing to create what is effectively an AIO, to be able to cope with the coolant level in the res not being always above the pump, you have to be willing to make some compromises in your components choices to accept function over aesthetics.
> 
> The crucial element to having your plan, (where the coolant is not reliably above the pump) work, is being able to have a loop totally exclusive of air.
> 
> To do that, you'll need a flat top res with dip tubes, and a vent at the highest point in the loop, and one in the res top to vent air as it fills above the dip tubes.
> 
> Go with the Bitspower res with 3 port top and 2 dip tubes. Put the vent cap on top so you can reach it easily.
> 
> Once you get the system working reliably, _then_ you can go back and try changes for improved aesthetics.
> 
> The key here is to get a basic system working, before you dick around with it.
> 
> Your tubing will handle most of the thermal expansion/contraction of the coolant, but I would additionally, at least for the first testing, put a "T" at the top of the upper tube with a short bit of tubing sticking up vertically with a cap fitting on the tube. (about 4" should do what you need)
> 
> It would act as a vent / fill port once the res is full, and if you leave the upper portion of the vertical tubing as air space, then it would act as an accumulator as entrained air is expelled from the coolant, and also as a place where the air can't get back into the system from, and also provide room for expansion of the coolant as it heats up, taking the stress off the rest of your tubing having to do that.
> 
> It won't be real pretty, but get the concept working . . . . and then look at improving the looks.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So isn't that the same thing as just using dip tubes basically? Making the inlet and outlet holes in the res far below the air? If I used tubing instead of dip tubes, as dip tubes, I could extend the tubes far below the air to make sure it never got air into it. I'm probably going to go with the bitspower res anyways (larger res, i guess the clear acrylic is a bonus)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not exactly . . . .
> 
> The chance that you'll actually get ALL the air out of the system, especially at first, is pretty slim. Some little pockets just take forever to collapse, they just aren't big enough to negatively effect cooling to a noticeable degree..
> 
> In a normal setup, that is not a problem.
> 
> For you it is, and here's why;
> 
> When your system is off, if there's an un-collapsed air bubble higher than the res level, the the water above the res, being pulled down by gravity, compresses the air in the res, increasing the loop volume, and allowing the bubble to expand and maybe move.
> 
> If it gets to the pump, you're screwed.
> 
> When the pump starts, it won't move coolant, will run dry and burn, plus the system overheats from no circulation.
> 
> That's the worst case scenario, but it can happen, and it could be on the first restart or the millionth restart, you have to design out that possibility in the initial plan.
> 
> Hence my admonishment to have no air space in the res.
> 
> But it is your build, and your learning experience.
> 
> A smart man learns from his mistakes and failures, a smarter man, learns from the mistakes and failures of others as well.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I have to agree with this.

While the proposed pump/res layout will work,the practicalities of it are not in your favor,there is substantial risk of air accumulating in the pump top. Even with a well primed pump,its still a risk...If the loop was completely bled then I would go for it but getting the loop bled is the issue,
Im all for new layouts and trying something new but this isnt new and carries unnecessary risks,perhaps a burnt pump will change your mind?


----------



## Wolfsaibot




----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsaibot*


.... suppose you'd never run out of water


----------



## Wolfsaibot

Hey what ever works right?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsaibot*
> 
> Hey what ever works right?


Hahaha yeah, I suppose you could always stick the rads into the tank to


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I asked this a bit ago. seems like high pressure ones are the way to go. I'm liking Rosewill Hyperborea which are a cheaper version of the Akasa Apache. Pretty good pressure and they're ~$10 a piece.
> 
> If you have the cash, importing some Alpenfohn fans, Noisblockers, et al.


is this fans okay for it?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10215/fan-659/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PK-3_140mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_Fan_-_1700_RPM_-_27_dBA.html?tl=g36c15s775


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is this fans okay for it?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10215/fan-659/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PK-3_140mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_Fan_-_1700_RPM_-_27_dBA.html?tl=g36c15s775


Heard good things about them on rads....I have 2 in my case,using them just for front airflow tho....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> God damn you guys are doing awesome builds with this Primochill acrylic stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it hard to melt and shape and anyone have any issues with the barbs leaking or tube cracking?
> 
> Tempted to grab some white tube with black barbs I think that would look sexy


You have to use specific fittings for the acrylic. The specific fittings are quite secure and I haven't seen any problems with leaking.

Bending is quite easy to do. Basically you hold the tube over can heat gun for a minute or two and it gets soft abd bendable. Then you push it around a former to make your bend. You put a silicon insert in the tube before bending to keep it from collapsing on itself.

The hard part is getting the angles and lengths just right and that it is hard to recover from mistakes abd you often have to start over


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone have plans for a watercooledpc 25d yet?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I ordered 10 feet of Primochill black acrylic, and I eye-balled all my measurements. I did all my bending free-hand over the heatgun with cotton gloves. My hands were cramping from slowly bending the acrylic tight without kinking. I'm sure it would have been a lot easier with the monsoon bending kit... but I couldn't wait for them to release it... and I wanted to finish my build.
> 
> Here is my entire loop...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You did a good job with the free hand bending. I have been looking into the kits and think they are great but not necessary and you have proved this. Will you be sharing pics of the system when it is all tubed up?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Day 1 bending acrylic has got me stressed out. Went through 10ft. And still can't get the bends quite right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ohhh the shroud is shiny!







looks good!


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> You did a good job with the free hand bending. I have been looking into the kits and think they are great but not necessary and you have proved this. Will you be sharing pics of the system when it is all tubed up?


Thank you... I shared my pics in this thread here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/58130#post_21552066

Or... you can see more pics in my build thread link in my sig.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Thank you... I shared my pics in this thread here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/58130#post_21552066
> 
> Or... you can see more pics in my build thread link in my sig.


Looks fantastic, thanks.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsaibot*
> 
> Hey what ever works right?


where are the radiators?


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> where are the radiators?


I think he's just running a pump and relying on the volume in the tank as a coolant battery. Eventually it'll become a heat battery though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I think he's just running a pump and relying on the volume in the tank as a coolant battery. Eventually it'll become a heat battery though.


@ some point, if the system is hot enough.

He could always add a Bong.


----------



## rickyman0319

how do I connect : ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 5-Way Block & ModMyToys 4-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 8-Way Block to Lamptron FC6 fan controller? Fan controller doesnot have molex power cable.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone using purple in their build? Whether it be coolant, paint, sleeving, etc? I've been looking at colors for the past hour trying to figure out how I want to go about this and I would really like to see some in action.


May not be any help but I noticed some dude selling MDPC purple sleeving here the other day. Maybe he used some and has pics. And maybe you want the sleeving...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsaibot*
> 
> Hey what ever works right?


Sure thing. Though shouldn't that water be, like, Olive Drab Green?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> He could always add a Bong.


...oh wait wrong forum.









Hey does anyone use anti-cyclone fittings and/or have any further insight on them? Can get a few used but don't know if should bother.


----------



## Wolfsaibot

This is an old Cooler master Aquagate, very small fan & rad, the tank only serves as a massive reservoir. Its my server and permanently running. Temp gage has been modded though as nothing lasts for ever, getting between 30 -35°C. Tank was half once and filled it up with ice, lowest I got was 11°C.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cool. Welcome to OCN btw.


----------



## Wolfsaibot

This is an old Cooler master Aquagate, very small fan & rad, the tank only serves as a massive reservoir. Its my server and permanently running. Temp gage has been modded though as nothing lasts for ever, getting between 30 -35°C. Tank was half once and filled it up with ice, lowest I got was 11°C.


----------



## skupples

Bong type it into OC and search if you do not know what it isit is a homemade Kaskade that many people were using instead of radiators because it's very cheap to build


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Bong type it into OC and search if you do not know what it isit is a homemade Kaskade that many people were using instead of radiators because it's very cheap to build


Plus it's like one of those relaxing ambient noise waterfall things


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I know what it is; wasn't saying _he_ was on the wrong forum. Failed attempt at humor...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Im pushing 3 27 inch monitors.. Not sure what the power draw on those are... The titans pull @least 400 each under load with the clocks I run and them the 5.0 3930k which I assume is also around 400w. 30 typhoons. Two pumps. This is all off of two PSUs so idle efficiency isn't the best but it's not terrible. Everything besides the GPUs run off of a plat 860 and the titans run off of evga g2 1300w. Think I'm going to dtich the 3930k simply because 4930k is much more efficient.
> 
> Anyone know DDC pumps power draw? Can't be more than 30-40w


35X2 is 50+

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question. Looking into taking the plunge and i'm trying to plan for the number of radiators I will need. Right now I have a 3570k and a 780. I have a Arc Midi R2, planing on putting a 240 in the front and the roof. Will that be enough to add another 780 later after, or if, I get a 1440 monitor? I have a feeling that might be pushing it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


The "rule of thumb" goes out the window when ya talking about 300 watt cards .... think about it .... each fan mount on a rad provides about 100 watts of cooling .... so how can the same rule apply to a 650 (150 watts) and a 780 (300) ?

Rads sizer here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Is there any sort of G1/4 cap fitting (you know, for unused reservoir ports and stuff) that would fit flush with the port? I dont like the stock cap fittings that stick out a bit on reservoirs.
> 
> see sticking out i want to eliminate that. just need one ;/


EK's are flush .... and they all come with the res.....perhaps they are sold separately

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So still kinda new to AC rads; only had an ST30 so far. Just got a single UT45 and apparently there is not a bleed port on this model? Six ports on one side and all can be used like any other I figure then?


I think you mean the XT45 (or UT60 ?) ..... they both have 7 ports. The two top ports can be used as fill / bled ports .... the single one by itself is a drain port .... tho if mounted vertically, with that end on top, it will work well as a bleed port.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Whats everyone using for there Acrylic Tubing?


Lotsa choices..... see the acrylic thread for details..... but basically it's a eastern / western hemisphere thing:

Metric w/ E22 or EK Tubing w/ Bitspower Fittings / Tube Connectors
Inches w/ Monsoon and PrimoChill Tube Connectors and Bitspower threaded fittings

The 1st provides an aesthetic match for both tube connectors and fittings, the 2nd you have to pick the best color match ya can between the two manufacturers fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Draining the radiators from the loop is such pain in the butt. Any suggestions? I've been trying to rotate my rig 360 like a madman. The hard part the rig weigh so much.


Option 1 - Put in a drain with Quick Disconnect Fitting



Option 2 - Pit in a tee with a valve

Bitspower G1/4" Mini Valve - Matte Black (BP-MVV-MBK)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14596/ex-tub-1035/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Matte_Black_BP-MVV-MBK.html?tl=c101s1332b145

Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10363/ex-tub-609/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C08.html?tl=c101s1354b145

Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> for rads like the Ut60s, a good 140mm fan w/ high pressure matter or not? Reason I ask is that I don't run my fans at full so the drop in pressure due to drop in fan speed matter or not?


High Static Pressure might mean something on a 30 fpi rad or a Corsair 100i or maybe even a Monsta but are in no way needed for the 10 - 12 fpi rads XT45 / UT60 from Alphacool. And while you could dig up outdated data on 120 versus 140s showing the opposite, those don't include the new 140s, and in SPCR's recent test 140's took all of the top 5 ..... and 9 outta the top 11 spots.

The "proof is in the pudding" as they say and I'm using just five1200 rpm Phanteks SP140s in push (UT60-280 + ST45-420) ... Fan Xpert 2 keep them between 400 and 850 rpm and they are dead silent ..... 780 temps @ 25+% OC under Furmark full load are 39C at 1200 rpm ..... 44C at 850 rpm .... CPU hits 75C at 4.6 Ghz. My Delta T is 8.4C at 1200 rpm with air filters out, case raised an inch of desk and 12.4C with filters in, case in desk and fans topped out at 850 rpm.

The Phanteks are on newegg for $15 w/ 20% off ... so $12.
http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/32334-phanteks-12dx?showall=&start=6
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Tastes good...


No cookies ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Building my first loop this weekend (just CPU w/ one 280mm ST30 and one 240mm UT60) ...
> 
> I'm using barbed fittings - should I lubricate the o-rings when installing them? If so, is water good enough?
> 
> I imagine hand tight + 1/16 turn for a plexi EK block?
> 
> Also - does it actually affect my CPU temp if I hit the NB & VRM blocks before the CPU? I'm going custom loop to increase CPU cooling and don't want to cool the NB and VRM first if it has any detriment, but going to the NB first has the added benefit of a bit less tubing in the system


I have yet to need anything other than water as a lubricant in a WC build .... the one place I'd use something else would be when ya have a block apart and the irregular shaped O-ring keeps popping outta its slot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what 140mm fans recommend for Alphacool rad?


It's a low fpi rad .....See above .... regarding recommended 140s and 120 versus 140... If using 120s, I'd look at

Noiseblocker B12-2
Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120-12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm really considering going hard acrylic,but if you guys who have been building pc much longer than i have, are having/had problems in the beginning doing runs i may be taking up more than i can handle....So let me throw this question in there,for a simple build like mine (will be adding another rad 240mm) whats the recommended amount of tubing i should get (just to make sure i dnt run out)....?


Bending, I'd say 20 feet ..... fittings Id say 40 inches.... I bot 60 and had 20 left over. Kind of a time (bending) versus money (straight tune / fittings) thing ..... personally, I think they went about this the wrong way ..... imagine soft tubing that ya put in and use madrels to hold flex tube straight for straight runs...... then ya heat it up and gets hard and stays that way









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> If I used tubing instead of dip tubes, as dip tubes, I could extend the tubes far below the air to make sure it never got air into it. I'm probably going to go with the bitspower res anyways (larger res, i guess the clear acrylic is a bonus)


No need really, but fill tube designs vary....the fill tube design for the 250mm EK-Res 3 is 140mm long .... that's far below the water.... but doesn't need to be anywhere near that long .... in fact too long is detrimental...... any mini bubbles caught in the system forced down deep in the res could get sucked right back in..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Yeah, I measure 5mm depth for C48s and 10mm depth for C47s so I got it down pretty good without any leaks except that freak accident I had with the molex splitter. I haven't started a build log for 2.0, not until I'm done. I've mostly been posting my progress on WestCoastMods'FB page. I'm liking the progress on yours, lurking like a ninja!!


I remember C47s being 10mm on the outside, 8mm "seat depth " on the inside .... just confirmed w/ caliper .... alzheimers hasn't set in yet


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yep I'm finally adding a drain w/ valve this time around. How well it will actually work at first remains to be seen.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hi Guys

perhaps someone can shed some light for me. I am finishing my new build with a RIVE + 4960x (see sig. Enthoo Primo build log) and leak tested with primochill sysprep for 24 hours. I had the bottle laying around and decided why not, let´s give it a shot. I need to drain the system and flush it with distil to get the residues out before filling up with my coolant. It was a pita to drain it even with a t line at the bottom and I am pretty sure a lot of water was still in the rads. In the process of cleaning it with distil only (running the loop again)I notice a big piece of what looks like black painting from a 1/4 fitting floating in the reservoir (almost a half turn of the fitting, say 1 cm in length). Unnecessary to say that before I could turn off the pumps and grab the bugger within the reservoir it was sucked back in to the loop to never be found again.... I tear down the tubes and individually flush each component (pumps, rads, blocks) with my pond pump and distil using a bucket and never found that piece again. Even tear down the cpu block and disassemble it to look if was stuck inside. No luck. At this point I am inclined to rebuild it again, place the "sponge" that came with ek reservoir in the out port and hope to get that bugger running the loop. Any other ideas?

Second advice that I would appreciate. Is that a way to drain the system using perhaps compressed air to aid the water fully go out from the loop in the t-line drain (it is at the bottom lowest part of the system but still does not drain it fully)

Thanks for any input.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think you mean the XT45 (or UT60 ?) ..... they both have 7 ports. The two top ports can be used as fill / bled ports .... the single one by itself is a drain port .... tho if mounted vertically, with that end on top, it will work well as a bleed port


Not true. The XT45 does not have a bleed port on the opposite end as the fitting ports. Only the UT60 and Monsta have the bleed port


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Im pushing 3 27 inch monitors.. Not sure what the power draw on those are... The titans pull @least 400 each under load with the clocks I run and them the 5.0 3930k which I assume is also around 400w. 30 typhoons. Two pumps. This is all off of two PSUs so idle efficiency isn't the best but it's not terrible. Everything besides the GPUs run off of a plat 860 and the titans run off of evga g2 1300w. Think I'm going to dtich the 3930k simply because 4930k is much more efficient.
> 
> Anyone know DDC pumps power draw? Can't be more than 30-40w
> 
> 
> 
> 35X2 is 50+
Click to expand...

Actually its around 40w in a high restriction loop,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question. Looking into taking the plunge and i'm trying to plan for the number of radiators I will need. Right now I have a 3570k and a 780. I have a Arc Midi R2, planing on putting a 240 in the front and the roof. Will that be enough to add another 780 later after, or if, I get a 1440 monitor? I have a feeling that might be pushing it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


A 240 will be the bare minimum,having 2 240's will be absolutely fine.
The standard rule of thumb is a 240 for the CPU then a 120 for every block in the loop,RAM and mobo blocks count as one block together.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually its around 40w in a high restriction loop,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC.
> A 240 will be the bare minimum,having 2 240's will be absolutely fine.
> The standard rule of thumb is a 240 for the CPU then a 120 for every block in the loop,RAM and mobo blocks count as one block together.


I can attest to what B Negative is saying. I currently have two r9 290s and CPU in a waterloop with 2 x 240 rads in push configuration (see sig for "The Hawaiian Heat Wave" build log). When I turn off Crossfire, the loop is extremely cool, when I enable the second card, it gets a little warm for the CPU. If you do add another card in the future, I'd recommend adding another 360 rad.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Correct about UT45 as I learned the hard way recently. Luckily I am draining from one of my seven GPU block ports.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm in aus so it may be alot cheaper for me to just get the primo brand here,that to get the Tap plastics....Did you get your replacement rad back in yet,how is the build progressing....?


Yeah updated in my build log the past couple days, I installed Windows 3 times last night, learned the hardway Enterprise != same as Ultimate even though most sites and MS stated they are. Gonna purchase an Ultimate Key today then might reinstall since Can't remember if this ISO was clean or not.

She leak tested like a dream though, pretty sure 98% of the air is out as I'm not really seeing bubbles anymore when I rock / tilt it, and water stays at the exact same level. For the life of me Can't understand why the pump doesn't work w/ the Aquaero at times, I set the channel to PWM and nothing, then to Power and it started after a few seconds, but on a live machine it was off, and I didn't realize till I looked @ the CPU temps in the bios and saw 75C+ at which I shut it off and pointed the fan at it because anymore and the acrylic would start to melt, which would be the same episode as someone else had earlier.

So I just have the pump hooked up to the PSU. More pics tonight, one of the pins on the motherboard PCI x16 pulled out w/ the GPU so now its a 8x port only sadly, though 16x8x8 vs 16x8x16 I'm not sure if I'd even notice a difference? Especially since I can do 3.0. Oh well.. Don't think its worth RMA'ing over, had a ton of hiccups though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> agree and disagree with all the comments so far on the acrylic lines.
> *Everyone is aiming for a goal when they set out to run some acrylic.
> *If it doesn't turn out as they hoped - it'll usually get tossed.
> 
> I like square straight runs, but not diagonal, personally I like to see them kept vertical or horizontal.
> BUT by far I prefer viewing and doing multi-bend lines.
> It does take time and patience, which is why we all appreciate when some fine examples are given up for our viewing pleaseure.
> 
> I could never rest easy using single o-ring fittings though, except the compressions such as Primochills.
> 
> Different builds can suit the different acrylic runs too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: some bending


lol I just ended up grabbing acrylic w/o an idea in mind yet due to all the plasticize talk. I will say though for those that are entry level to it like I am, first cut the length (just a bit longer ) that you feel would accomplish the area you're bending. I use my screw ups to get a better idea of length for marking as well as the rulers from the kits, though the screw ups come in handy since I have a better visual for my bend where one fails I use it to fix another.

For really awkward bends where you want to avoid or are lacking on fittings, if you have the room, then I can suggest something. I do this and might be unorthodox or people might actually do it, but for odd angle bends once the tube starts to bend a bit, (not a hard way but somewhat easy but not fully ) I move the tube over near the fitting and place one end in if possible ( as long as its not close to the bend point ) and bend it slightly to get the idea of a good angle of where to end it at, then quickly return it to the heater for a few more seconds then apply my bend, and or you can hold it in place in 1 fitting and arc it near where you're going. This has helped me for smaller runs, larger runs are easier to do.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> perhaps someone can shed some light for me. I am finishing my new build with a RIVE + 4960x (see sig. Enthoo Primo build log) and leak tested with primochill sysprep for 24 hours. I had the bottle laying around and decided why not, let´s give it a shot. I need to drain the system and flush it with distil to get the residues out before filling up with my coolant. It was a pita to drain it even with a t line at the bottom and I am pretty sure a lot of water was still in the rads. In the process of cleaning it with distil only (running the loop again)I notice a big piece of what looks like black painting from a 1/4 fitting floating in the reservoir (almost a half turn of the fitting, say 1 cm in length). Unnecessary to say that before I could turn off the pumps and grab the bugger within the reservoir it was sucked back in to the loop to never be found again.... I tear down the tubes and individually flush each component (pumps, rads, blocks) with my pond pump and distil using a bucket and never found that piece again. Even tear down the cpu block and disassemble it to look if was stuck inside. No luck. At this point I am inclined to rebuild it again, place the "sponge" that came with ek reservoir in the out port and hope to get that bugger running the loop. Any other ideas?
> 
> Second advice that I would appreciate. Is that a way to drain the system using perhaps compressed air to aid the water fully go out from the loop in the t-line drain (it is at the bottom lowest part of the system but still does not drain it fully)
> 
> Thanks for any input.


Why on earth did you leave sysprep in for 24 hrs? 15 mins is all it needs....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why on earth did you leave sysprep in for 24 hrs? 15 mins is all it needs....


The instructions said at least 12 hours?







And before I left to work was only 8 hours running so I decide to leave running for about 18 hours (when I got back home)...

Also I think was kind of overkill since I already have flushed the rads using the West Coast mods method for flushing rads (filter + pond pump)... Any bad side effects of leaving running 18 hours or just waste of time?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not true. The XT45 does not have a bleed port on the opposite end as the fitting ports. Only the UT60 and Monsta have the bleed port


Looks like yours does not ..... but mine certainly does. Must be an old model / new model thing. Mine was bought in late November.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The XT had a bleed screw along with all the other Alphacool rads. It was removed...its not really needed.




Around 4 mins in.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I reviewed that video before posting.

1. That's the UT60 (not the XT45) at that point in the video .... he doesn't take the XT45 out of the box till the 5:20 mark.

2. The UT60 I bought in November 2013 with the XT45 also has the port.



3. That video talks (11:00 mark) about being used on video cards like the 580 and 7970 (latter released in 2011) .... quite a bit outdated with regard to what ya can buy today methinks.

I agree tho....not really needed, at least in my build, tho at one point I did consider a drain at the rear of the case for the UT60 on the case bottom and a fill at the front of the case for the XT45 .... the top rear ports served better as fill / bleed ports for the top XT since higher and the bottom port on the UT60 also served better as a drain since lower.

If both were available....I'd take the 7 ports over the 6 tho.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, I am debating buying some acrylic tubing from them to practice with before I use my green Primochill tubing. Considering the nearest Tap Plastics is only 30mins away from me.


usplastics is great also. i found 16mm od tubes. I got 24' for like $9.00. 4 - 6' pieces. i will use it to practice and then use the ek tubes. I will also use the cheaper stufff for the hidden runs in the top and lower chambers.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> usplastics is great also. i found 16mm od tubes. I got 24' for like $9.00. 4 - 6' pieces. i will use it to practice and then use the ek tubes. I will also use the cheaper stufff for the hidden runs in the top and lower chambers.


Did you actually find Metric Acrylic tube at US Plastic, or just the 5/8" and calling it good enough?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I reviewed that video before posting.
> 
> 1. That's the UT60 at that point in the video
> 
> 2. That video talks about being used on video cards like the 580 .... quite a bit outdated with regard to what ya can buy today methinks.


1. Look further along..not that it matters,the design spec for the rads is the same other than depth.

2. That video is over 2 years old,so the 580 was very much in date methinks...a much hotter card too than current cards.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 1. Look further along..not that it matters,the design spec for the rads is the same other than depth.
> 
> 2. That video is over 2 years old,so the 580 was very much in date methinks...a much hotter card too than current cards.


Jeez , your avatar finally got the best of my curiosity so I looked up the report on that crash, that SUCKED. Especially the gashes he got from the barbwire, hope they did something about the driver...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Looks like yours does not ..... but mine certainly does. Must be an old model / new model thing. Mine was bought in late November.


Interesting. That was taken from Martins Liquid Lab. The pictures on the AC website and PPCs both show it without the bleed port. Like BNeg said, it must have been removed in a different version


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Did you try using the silicon for measurements? It's an awesome tip I got from the singularity PCs bending video. It's also a good idea to leave the silicon inside after bending and check if the bend fits in your system first, if not you can reheat and adjust.


Yep, I even have a 1/2 inch insert, but i'm still getting them too short or too long by a few mm.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its on the first page of my bending guide he used.....


I should probably go through the guide again, been a while since i've read it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ohhh the shroud is shiny!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks good!


Yep, I was gonna do matte black, decided to just stick with the glossy panels.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hi gang,

Has anyone thought of water cooling the PSU??


----------



## Archea47

Hey gang,

I'm going to leak-test my components this evening before installing into my case

DCP 4.0 (800L/hr) -> 280x140x30mm Alphacool ST30 -> EK Supremacy plexi CPU block -> Koolance MVR-100 VRM block -> Koolance CRC-122 NB block -> 240x120x60mm Alphacool UT60 -> reservoir

I have a AC -> DC 4 pin molex converter to power the pump while leak testing. Is there a danger with running the 800L/r pump without throttling it down with my components? In production I'll be using a 30w/channel fan controller (already in) to scale down the pump if necessary

Thanks!


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hi gang,
> 
> Has anyone thought of water cooling the PSU??


A.K.A the disaster waiting to happen. They don't need water cooling anyways.

-Zepp


----------



## VSG

Koolance actually sold a water cooled PSU for a while: http://koolance.com/1300-1700w-liquid-cooled-power-supply

It was a sales disaster needless to say!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually its around 40w in a high restriction loop,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC.
> A 240 will be the bare minimum,having 2 240's will be absolutely fine.
> The standard rule of thumb is a 240 for the CPU then a 120 for every block in the loop,RAM and mobo blocks count as one block together.


It's actually low restriction loops that draw the most wattage. According to Martins test, 3.50 gpm @ 3.65 psi produced a current draw of 51.52 watts and discharged 45.97 watts worth of heat at 100% PWM. Most I have pulled is 45 watts which I "coarsely" estimated by watching the kil-o-watt after yanking the pump plugs and then doing a rough conversion for PSU efficiency .... very hard to estimate that way but close enough to Martins numbers at 2.25 - 2.50 gpm

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/6/

Im not a fan of the "rule of thumb". My issue is that it works very well in some instances which misleads one into thinking it's actually going to work in all.

1. The rule works good with mid level GFX cards, not so much at the top end.
2. The rule works pretty good with hi rpm fans, not so much for those desiring quiet systems
3. The rule works pretty good with 1-2 GFX card systems, not so much after that.

Here's why ..... One 120mm on a UT60 at 1800 rpm produces about 90 watts cooling (63 at a more reasonable 1250 rpm)
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/

...... that seems a bit light for a WB on a 300+ watt GFX card.

So if the CPU (say 128 for 3570k) needs a 240mm..... that's 64 watts per 120mm ..... RAM and MoBo Block is also about 64 watts per 120mm .....but 300+ watts per 120mm for GFX ?.....that's almost a 5 to 1 ratio there....it kinda averages out tho for 1 or 2 card installations as ye getting way more than ya need for the CPU / MoBo and way less than ya need for the GPUs tho .... the rule falls completely apart with 3 and 4 cards.

Two 60mm 240s provide about 358 watts of cooling at 1800 rpm

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/

Figure 250 watts of cooling at 1250 rpm.

Two 780s (one of the factory OCd jobs from (Giga, Asus, MSI) will draw 462 watts, 590 for both overclocked .... add 125 for the CPU and ya got 715 watts

With the 240 + 240 you could take that 358 watts w/ a single fan up about 20% in push pull at 1800 rpm for about 430 watts which would have the rads handling 60% of the theoretical load which is certainly workable.....at 1250 rpm it would be too low.... at 1250 rpm, I'd look for two 360s and 452 watts (63%).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Interesting. That was taken from Martins Liquid Lab. The pictures on the AC website and PPCs both show it without the bleed port. Like BNeg said, it must have been removed in a different version


Yes, all of those sources are quite a bit "old" unfortunately.....I checked FCPU site and there' pics clearly show no port..... but that;s where I purchased both rads, two months ago and both have the ports. Now the video reviewer was talking about the "new" rads from Alphacool and them being the 1st "all copper" rad on the market. The pics that were taken by PPCs, FCPU and all the reviewers were also likely to be when it 1st came out as nobody gets excited about reading new reviews on 3 year old products and sellers don't update their catalogs very often..... so it would seem to make more sense that this is a "newer" iteration rather than an "older" one.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Interesting. That was taken from Martins Liquid Lab. The pictures on the AC website and PPCs both show it without the bleed port. Like BNeg said, it must have been removed in a different version


Ah that's too bad...I'd be pissed if I'd ordered mine under that impression and with plans to use the port though.

Likely a marketing decision I guess.


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm in aus so it may be alot cheaper for me to just get the primo brand here,that to get the Tap plastics....Did you get your replacement rad back in yet,how is the build progressing....?


Could give these guys a look, not used them myself but found them the other day. I'll be using push fit fittings not the ghost fittings


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I'm going to leak-test my components this evening before installing into my case
> 
> DCP 4.0 (800L/hr) -> 280x140x30mm Alphacool ST30 -> EK Supremacy plexi CPU block -> Koolance MVR-100 VRM block -> Koolance CRC-122 NB block -> 240x120x60mm Alphacool UT60 -> reservoir
> 
> I have a AC -> DC 4 pin molex converter to power the pump while leak testing. Is there a danger with running the 800L/r pump without throttling it down with my components? In production I'll be using a 30w/channel fan controller (already in) to scale down the pump if necessary
> 
> Thanks!


nope no problem at all. run it full blast. you wont need to or want to throttle it when its actually cooling either. im less restricted than you and my pump is fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually its around 40w in a high restriction loop,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC.
> A 240 will be the bare minimum,having 2 240's will be absolutely fine.
> The standard rule of thumb is a 240 for the CPU then a 120 for every block in the loop,RAM and mobo blocks count as one block together.
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually low restriction loops that draw the most wattage. According to Martins test, 3.50 gpm @ 3.65 psi produced a current draw of 51.52 watts and discharged 45.97 watts worth of heat at 100% PWM. Most I have pulled is 45 watts which I "coarsely" estimated by watching the kil-o-watt after yanking the pump plugs and then doing a rough conversion for PSU efficiency .... very hard to estimate that way but close enough to Martins numbers at 2.25 - 2.50 gpm
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/6/
> 
> Im not a fan of the "rule of thumb". My issue is that it works very well in some instances which misleads one into thinking it's actually going to work in all.
> 
> 1. The rule works good with mid level GFX cards, not so much at the top end.
> 2. The rule works pretty good with hi rpm fans, not so much for those desiring quiet systems
> 3. The rule works pretty good with 1-2 GFX card systems, not so much after that.
> 
> Here's why ..... One 120mm on a UT60 at 1800 rpm produces about 90 watts cooling (63 at a more reasonable 1250 rpm)
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
> 
> ...... that seems a bit light for a WB on a 300+ watt GFX card.
> 
> So if the CPU (say 128 for 3570k) needs a 240mm..... that's 64 watts per 120mm ..... RAM and MoBo Block is also about 64 watts per 120mm .....but 300+ watts per 120mm for GFX ?.....that's almost a 5 to 1 ratio there....it kinda averages out tho for 1 or 2 card installations as ye getting way more than ya need for the CPU / MoBo and way less than ya need for the GPUs tho .... the rule falls completely apart with 3 and 4 cards.
> 
> Two 60mm 240s provide about 358 watts of cooling at 1800 rpm
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
> 
> Figure 250 watts of cooling at 1250 rpm.
> 
> Two 780s (one of the factory OCd jobs from (Giga, Asus, MSI) will draw 462 watts, 590 for both overclocked .... add 125 for the CPU and ya got 715 watts
> 
> With the 240 + 240 you could take that 358 watts w/ a single fan up about 20% in push pull at 1800 rpm for about 430 watts which would have the rads handling 60% of the theoretical load which is certainly workable.....at 1250 rpm it would be too low.... at 1250 rpm, I'd look for two 360s and 452 watts (63%)
Click to expand...

EDIT: Misread graph.

The rule of thumb works just fine,you are massively over estimating how much rad is actually required,GPU's for example do not input as much heat as you think in to a loop.
WiSK on this very forum has a 120/140 on its own cooling a GPU and CPU with acceptable temps,I believe him,he has no reason to lie about it. You can push numbers all day long but the fact is the rule of thumb works and has done for a while. It works regardless of fan speeds or the performance/silence aspect. The difference between rad optimization is a couple of degrees at best,fan speeds have a better effect but even then its not a massive gain in temps.

Now,if you want more proof of GPUs not being a big impact in a loop then consider the ARES II,dual 7970's on one 120mm rad with a great OC on them.



And temps.



And noise.



And the consumption...



628w v 590w for the 780's you put up.....all on a 120 rad that isnt even copper.......with a crappy glycol mix instead of DI.

You can work out hypothetical numbers but they rarely paint the whole picture....so,in short,it doesnt 'fall apart' at all.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> perhaps someone can shed some light for me. I am finishing my new build with a RIVE + 4960x (see sig. Enthoo Primo build log) and leak tested with primochill sysprep for 24 hours. I had the bottle laying around and decided why not, let´s give it a shot. I need to drain the system and flush it with distil to get the residues out before filling up with my coolant. It was a pita to drain it even with a t line at the bottom and I am pretty sure a lot of water was still in the rads. In the process of cleaning it with distil only (running the loop again)I notice a big piece of what looks like black painting from a 1/4 fitting floating in the reservoir (almost a half turn of the fitting, say 1 cm in length). Unnecessary to say that before I could turn off the pumps and grab the bugger within the reservoir it was sucked back in to the loop to never be found again.... I tear down the tubes and individually flush each component (pumps, rads, blocks) with my pond pump and distil using a bucket and never found that piece again. Even tear down the cpu block and disassemble it to look if was stuck inside. No luck. At this point I am inclined to rebuild it again, place the "sponge" that came with ek reservoir in the out port and hope to get that bugger running the loop. Any other ideas?
> 
> Second advice that I would appreciate. Is that a way to drain the system using perhaps compressed air to aid the water fully go out from the loop in the t-line drain (it is at the bottom lowest part of the system but still does not drain it fully)


I have had the same experience..... can't say whether it came off the Bitspower Fittings (more likely) or Alphacool Rad but this is why I'll always recommend from now on.....

1. Clear acrylic block tops
2. Running with pure DW for a few days.

The most likely place for it to get stuck is the CPU water block as that's where the post restrictive openings are.... but you looked there.... have you tried backflowing the system ? Running the loop in reverse. Simply take ya pump outlut and connect to to the pump in tube....have the other end of the disconnected loop dump into a bucket (tube that was pump out and use a temporary tube from the bucket to pump inlet (Make sure ya fill that tube 1st so no air gets sucked in) . I actually used a drill pump and it worked very well ...... WARNING .... if ya buy one of those cheap hardware store drill pumps, open it up 1st .... inside you will find a big wad of grease and i mean BIG. Make sure that interior is all wiped down before using.


----------



## fast_fate

With the required rad space queries fresh on this thread.......I though I would share these links with you guys 'n gals








There is a healthy debate and current testing going on right now by water cooling enthusiasts in Australia.

Radiator Experiment - Discussion thread

Radiator Experiment - Results thread

Beano (the OP and thread lead tester) is encouraging users to submit data to add to the info pool.
I haven't really looked at results yet - but I guess many here could be interested

The main point of starting was to dispel the myth that massive amount of rad surface area is required for _*adequate*_ components cooling.
Here are some of the questions he poses and hopes to test clarify is his OP

Start Quote
Would any of you like to see what temps a system like this would be running at when idling, normal day-day use, as well as extreme gaming sessions, and then 24 hours of severe CPU/GPU benchmarking? Running a 240, or 280 vs a 480 rad?

Would you want to see me employ only standard software measurements, via OS, or actually use some high-end industrial temperature sensors and trending equipment to measure the results?

What would be constituted good temperatures, and why?

Do you believe a single 240 rad can very successfully cool the over clocked 3570k, as well as the 780GTX.

What about running triple 780GTX's, as well as a 3930k, on a single Alphacool UT60 280mm rad, with fans only spinning at 1200rpm?

Let's have a debate, let's refrain from getting personal, and let's keep the emotions out. Just your input, expectations et al.

I will gather the correct equipment in the meantime, and will conduct the tests if that is what people wants to see.

Let me know which you would like to see, but the majority of my testing will be conducted on the 3930k with triple 780's, this is probably as extreme as most serious gamers will go at the start of 2014, so any lesser system will be happy with the radiators specified if the system is running lower specs.
End Quote


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> With the required rad space queries fresh on this thread.......I though I would share these links with you guys 'n gals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a healthy debate and current testing going on right now by water cooling enthusiasts in Australia.
> 
> Radiator Experiment - Discussion thread
> 
> Radiator Experiment - Results thread
> 
> Beano (the OP and thread lead tester) is encouraging users to submit data to add to the info pool.
> I haven't really looked at results yet - but I guess many here could be interested
> 
> The main point of starting was to dispel the myth that massive amount of rad surface area is required for _*adequate*_ components cooling.
> Here are some of the questions he poses and hopes to test clarify is his OP
> 
> Start Quote
> Would any of you like to see what temps a system like this would be running at when idling, normal day-day use, as well as extreme gaming sessions, and then 24 hours of severe CPU/GPU benchmarking? Running a 240, or 280 vs a 480 rad?
> 
> Would you want to see me employ only standard software measurements, via OS, or actually use some high-end industrial temperature sensors and trending equipment to measure the results?
> 
> What would be constituted good temperatures, and why?
> 
> Do you believe a single 240 rad can very successfully cool the over clocked 3570k, as well as the 780GTX.
> 
> What about running triple 780GTX's, as well as a 3930k, on a single Alphacool UT60 280mm rad, with fans only spinning at 1200rpm?
> 
> Let's have a debate, let's refrain from getting personal, and let's keep the emotions out. Just your input, expectations et al.
> 
> I will gather the correct equipment in the meantime, and will conduct the tests if that is what people wants to see.
> 
> Let me know which you would like to see, but the majority of my testing will be conducted on the 3930k with triple 780's, this is probably as extreme as most serious gamers will go at the start of 2014, so any lesser system will be happy with the radiators specified if the system is running lower specs.
> End Quote


Exactly,no substitute for actually trying these things...paper knowledge is fine but it rarely matches RL. I have spent a long time just dicking around with stuff on various platforms,I should jot down my findings a bit more....

+rep.

I should join over there,seems like a good bunch.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Anyone have pics of a clear cap reservoir in use?
> 
> Preferably, a bitspower clear reservoir _with black fittings and dark blue or blue fluid, ideally mayhems pastel_?
> 
> I'm debating whether to go for the black cap version or clear cap version of the bitspower acrylic reservoir (bnegative seems to be a fan of their reservoirs). Now I see a few pics of the clear reservoir in usage _with silver_ fittings, and it looks super sharp, and I see pictures of the black reservoir _with black fittings_, and that also looks sharp.
> 
> I can't use fittings other then black because my block and rad are black with black barbs, so I think it'd be weird to put anything other then black on the fittings of the reservoir (for a while, i strongly contemplated a phobya balancer black nickel and using that dark gray, black chrome fittings, because my build has a ton of dark gray in it with the sleeving, custom acrylic work, and mobo, but i decided against it since it'd be weird for black rad, black block, gray res all in the same loop).
> 
> So, my current deliberation, of black cap reservoir + black fittings or clear cap + black fittings. i think a clear res would be more of a solid dark blue because of all the mayhems pastel I'm using in it... but still, just wanted to see if anyone had pics of a clear acrylic reservoir (even bay reservoirs or pump reservoirs where the fitting mates at a clear part is fine) with black fittings on it. I think I'm leaning towards clear reservoir, but wondering if just the black caps kinda stick out weird and a black cap would look better.
> 
> thanks. tldr looking for pics of black fittings on clear ports of a reservoir, ideally with blue fluid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't have the pics you're looking for, but to expand a bit on what I mentioned, . . . . .
> 
> Because you're essentially needing to create what is effectively an AIO, to be able to cope with the coolant level in the res not being always above the pump, you have to be willing to make some compromises in your components choices to accept function over aesthetics.
> 
> The crucial element to having your plan, (where the coolant is not reliably above the pump) work, is being able to have a loop totally exclusive of air.
> 
> To do that, you'll need a flat top res with dip tubes, and a vent at the highest point in the loop, and one in the res top to vent air as it fills above the dip tubes.
> 
> Go with the Bitspower res with 3 port top and 2 dip tubes. Put the vent cap on top so you can reach it easily.
> 
> Once you get the system working reliably, _then_ you can go back and try changes for improved aesthetics.
> 
> The key here is to get a basic system working, before you dick around with it.
> 
> Your tubing will handle most of the thermal expansion/contraction of the coolant, but I would additionally, at least for the first testing, put a "T" at the top of the upper tube with a short bit of tubing sticking up vertically with a cap fitting on the tube. (about 4" should do what you need)
> 
> It would act as a vent / fill port once the res is full, and if you leave the upper portion of the vertical tubing as air space, then it would act as an accumulator as entrained air is expelled from the coolant, and also as a place where the air can't get back into the system from, and also provide room for expansion of the coolant as it heats up, taking the stress off the rest of your tubing having to do that.
> 
> It won't be real pretty, but get the concept working . . . . and then look at improving the looks.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So isn't that the same thing as just using dip tubes basically? Making the inlet and outlet holes in the res far below the air? If I used tubing instead of dip tubes, as dip tubes, I could extend the tubes far below the air to make sure it never got air into it. I'm probably going to go with the bitspower res anyways (larger res, i guess the clear acrylic is a bonus)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not exactly . . . .
> 
> The chance that you'll actually get ALL the air out of the system, especially at first, is pretty slim. Some little pockets just take forever to collapse, they just aren't big enough to negatively effect cooling to a noticeable degree..
> 
> In a normal setup, that is not a problem.
> 
> For you it is, and here's why;
> 
> When your system is off, if there's an un-collapsed air bubble higher than the res level, the the water above the res, being pulled down by gravity, compresses the air in the res, increasing the loop volume, and allowing the bubble to expand and maybe move.
> 
> If it gets to the pump, you're screwed.
> 
> When the pump starts, it won't move coolant, will run dry and burn, plus the system overheats from no circulation.
> 
> That's the worst case scenario, but it can happen, and it could be on the first restart or the millionth restart, you have to design out that possibility in the initial plan.
> 
> Hence my admonishment to have no air space in the res.
> 
> But it is your build, and your learning experience.
> 
> A smart man learns from his mistakes and failures, a smarter man, learns from the mistakes and failures of others as well.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Ah okay I understand what you're saying now, you basically mean I should have another 'reservoir' in the system, so I can totally fill the tubular reservoir. Then there would be no air trapped in the reservoir (in which case, why use dip tubes at all in your example, right? Dont really need them right?) because it's all trapped in that mini-reservoir, or that length of tubing running from the top of the reservoir. So in essence, the water level is above the pump, even if the reservoir top is below it.

I mean, just having a length of tubing run straight from the top of the res to just straight up, wouldn't really look bad at all. I could even make it terminate in one of those fill caps that you attach to your case, and actually fill from there. Or I could even attach it with a 90* rotary barb (like the intlet and outlet on the top of the res) and make it hide away. I mean lots of things I could do with that, great idea, i get it now.
Quote:


> EK's are flush .... and they all come with the res.....perhaps they are sold separately


You're right, but I looked closely and that's because the EK reservoirs have an indention built into them.

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> No need really, but fill tube designs vary....the fill tube design for the 250mm EK-Res 3 is 140mm long .... that's far below the water.... but doesn't need to be anywhere near that long .... in fact too long is detrimental...... any mini bubbles caught in the system forced down deep in the res could get sucked right back in..
Click to expand...

Not sure I understand what you mean. If a bubble is caught in the bottom fo the res, it might get sucked up? Isn't that true regardless of how short or long I make the dip tubes, it might suck an errant bubble in? I would figure that the outlet tube being longer would reduce the chance of that (or inlet tube too, but i'm not really worried about air possible going to res, it'll probably get shot back into the res with the flow anyways).

On a related note, can the EK Internal tubes be used with G1/4" fittings, like in other reservoirs? I'd like to use clear tubing for the dip tubes, and if I use a barb + vinyl tubing it might not fit on the inside of the res due to the fitting spacing actually.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually its around 40w in a high restriction loop,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC.
> A 240 will be the bare minimum,having 2 240's will be absolutely fine.
> The standard rule of thumb is a 240 for the CPU then a 120 for every block in the loop,RAM and mobo blocks count as one block together.
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually low restriction loops that draw the most wattage. According to Martins test, 3.50 gpm @ 3.65 psi produced a current draw of 51.52 watts and discharged 45.97 watts worth of heat at 100% PWM. Most I have pulled is 45 watts which I "coarsely" estimated by watching the kil-o-watt after yanking the pump plugs and then doing a rough conversion for PSU efficiency .... very hard to estimate that way but close enough to Martins numbers at 2.25 - 2.50 gpm
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/6/
> 
> Im not a fan of the "rule of thumb". My issue is that it works very well in some instances which misleads one into thinking it's actually going to work in all.
> 
> 1. The rule works good with mid level GFX cards, not so much at the top end.
> 2. The rule works pretty good with hi rpm fans, not so much for those desiring quiet systems
> 3. The rule works pretty good with 1-2 GFX card systems, not so much after that.
> 
> Here's why ..... One 120mm on a UT60 at 1800 rpm produces about 90 watts cooling (63 at a more reasonable 1250 rpm)
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
> 
> ...... that seems a bit light for a WB on a 300+ watt GFX card.
> 
> So if the CPU (say 128 for 3570k) needs a 240mm..... that's 64 watts per 120mm ..... RAM and MoBo Block is also about 64 watts per 120mm .....but 300+ watts per 120mm for GFX ?.....that's almost a 5 to 1 ratio there....it kinda averages out tho for 1 or 2 card installations as ye getting way more than ya need for the CPU / MoBo and way less than ya need for the GPUs tho .... the rule falls completely apart with 3 and 4 cards.
> 
> Two 60mm 240s provide about 358 watts of cooling at 1800 rpm
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
> 
> Figure 250 watts of cooling at 1250 rpm.
> 
> Two 780s (one of the factory OCd jobs from (Giga, Asus, MSI) will draw 462 watts, 590 for both overclocked .... add 125 for the CPU and ya got 715 watts
> 
> With the 240 + 240 you could take that 358 watts w/ a single fan up about 20% in push pull at 1800 rpm for about 430 watts which would have the rads handling 60% of the theoretical load which is certainly workable.....at 1250 rpm it would be too low.... at 1250 rpm, I'd look for two 360s and 452 watts (63%)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> EDIT: Misread graph.
> 
> The rule of thumb works just fine,you are massively over estimating how much rad is actually required,GPU's for example do not input as much heat as you think in to a loop.
> WiSK on this very forum has a 120 on its own cooling a GPU and CPU with acceptable temps. You can push numbers all day long but the fact is the rule of thumb works and has done for a while. It works regardless of fan speeds or the performance/silence aspect. The difference between rad optimization is a couple of degrees at best,fan speeds have a better effect but even then its not a massive gain in temps.
> 
> Now,if you want more proof of GPUs not being a big impact in a loop then consider the ARES II,dual 7970's on one 120mm rad with a great OC on them.
> 
> 
> 
> And temps.
> 
> 
> 
> And noise.
> 
> 
> 
> And the consumption...
> 
> 
> 
> 628w v 590w for the 780's you put up.....all on a 120 rad that isnt even copper.......with a crappy glycol mix instead of DI.
> 
> You can work out hypothetical numbers but they rarely paint the whole picture....so,in short,it doesnt 'fall apart' at all.
Click to expand...

My 7950 at 1.25v, +50% power limit fix, and a high overclock, on a 120mm CLC h60 2013 _with no fans on it_ hits a max of 35C in a warm room during OCCT testing (ie about as hot as you get, way hotter then heaven, gaming, etc).

I assume that a 200w GPU like the 7950 runs 'cooler' then a 200w i7 Haswell because the cpu is smaller in die size, and/or they may not be optimally dispersing heat (like the delid issue with ivy/haswell, onboard vrm, etc).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually its around 40w in a high restriction loop,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC.
> A 240 will be the bare minimum,having 2 240's will be absolutely fine.
> The standard rule of thumb is a 240 for the CPU then a 120 for every block in the loop,RAM and mobo blocks count as one block together.
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually low restriction loops that draw the most wattage. According to Martins test, 3.50 gpm @ 3.65 psi produced a current draw of 51.52 watts and discharged 45.97 watts worth of heat at 100% PWM. Most I have pulled is 45 watts which I "coarsely" estimated by watching the kil-o-watt after yanking the pump plugs and then doing a rough conversion for PSU efficiency .... very hard to estimate that way but close enough to Martins numbers at 2.25 - 2.50 gpm
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/6/
> 
> Im not a fan of the "rule of thumb". My issue is that it works very well in some instances which misleads one into thinking it's actually going to work in all.
> 
> 1. The rule works good with mid level GFX cards, not so much at the top end.
> 2. The rule works pretty good with hi rpm fans, not so much for those desiring quiet systems
> 3. The rule works pretty good with 1-2 GFX card systems, not so much after that.
> 
> Here's why ..... One 120mm on a UT60 at 1800 rpm produces about 90 watts cooling (63 at a more reasonable 1250 rpm)
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
> 
> ...... that seems a bit light for a WB on a 300+ watt GFX card.
> 
> So if the CPU (say 128 for 3570k) needs a 240mm..... that's 64 watts per 120mm ..... RAM and MoBo Block is also about 64 watts per 120mm .....but 300+ watts per 120mm for GFX ?.....that's almost a 5 to 1 ratio there....it kinda averages out tho for 1 or 2 card installations as ye getting way more than ya need for the CPU / MoBo and way less than ya need for the GPUs tho .... the rule falls completely apart with 3 and 4 cards.
> 
> Two 60mm 240s provide about 358 watts of cooling at 1800 rpm
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
> 
> Figure 250 watts of cooling at 1250 rpm.
> 
> Two 780s (one of the factory OCd jobs from (Giga, Asus, MSI) will draw 462 watts, 590 for both overclocked .... add 125 for the CPU and ya got 715 watts
> 
> With the 240 + 240 you could take that 358 watts w/ a single fan up about 20% in push pull at 1800 rpm for about 430 watts which would have the rads handling 60% of the theoretical load which is certainly workable.....at 1250 rpm it would be too low.... at 1250 rpm, I'd look for two 360s and 452 watts (63%)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> EDIT: Misread graph.
> 
> The rule of thumb works just fine,you are massively over estimating how much rad is actually required,GPU's for example do not input as much heat as you think in to a loop.
> WiSK on this very forum has a 120 on its own cooling a GPU and CPU with acceptable temps. You can push numbers all day long but the fact is the rule of thumb works and has done for a while. It works regardless of fan speeds or the performance/silence aspect. The difference between rad optimization is a couple of degrees at best,fan speeds have a better effect but even then its not a massive gain in temps.
> 
> Now,if you want more proof of GPUs not being a big impact in a loop then consider the ARES II,dual 7970's on one 120mm rad with a great OC on them.
> 
> 
> 
> And temps.
> 
> 
> 
> And noise.
> 
> 
> 
> And the consumption...
> 
> 
> 
> 628w v 590w for the 780's you put up.....all on a 120 rad that isnt even copper.......with a crappy glycol mix instead of DI.
> 
> You can work out hypothetical numbers but they rarely paint the whole picture....so,in short,it doesnt 'fall apart' at all.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My 7950 at 1.25v, +50% power limit fix, and a high overclock, on a 120mm CLC h60 2013 _with no fans on it_ hits a max of 35C in a warm room during OCCT testing (ie about as hot as you get, way hotter then heaven, gaming, etc).
> 
> I assume that a 200w GPU like the 7950 runs 'cooler' then a 200w i7 Haswell because the cpu is smaller in die size, and/or they may not be optimally dispersing heat (like the delid issue with ivy/haswell, onboard vrm, etc).
Click to expand...

Card TDP's are a whole card value,not just the die.
CPU's TDP is a nonsense figure with no real value, Example,the TDP of my x5650's is 95w...but the actual draw is closer 195w max value at stock as in the original Intel spec and 280-300w for a heavy OC. They stopped releasing that info and stuck to TDP to make their chips look like power savers. Intel use the throttled value as a TDP,it is what the cooler would have to dissipate in a worst case scenario. They have even changed the goalpost recently by using the SDP value which is the draw in expected day to day use,lower than even TDP and an even more worthless value,purely to sell more laptop chips.
My x5650's


----------



## wermad

Haswell (and IB) run hot because of the crap junk intel used between the ihs and the die. Once delid and replaced with some good stuff, they run as hot underwater as SB, SB-E, and IB-E. Personally, i did a 4670K and got a good 10-15° drop on a fairly hot chip once i dlided. Some folks saw ~20-25°c drop after delid on very hot chips.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The main point of starting was to dispel the myth that massive amount of rad surface area is required for _*adequate*_ components cooling.


This is why I dislike that "rule of thumb" for radiators. My GPU is not a hot card, but it runs 70C+ on air and loud. If I water cool it, then it's 50C _overclocked_ on a single rad even sharing the loop with the CPU, and quiet. When I doubled the radiator, it was still 50C, just that I could run the fans a bit slower to get that temp.

CPU (delidded i7-3770K) was a different story. Even a slight overclock (4.2GHz) and temps got higher than air. Running fans harder only helped a few degrees. When I doubled the radiator, temps back to adequate and better overclock and fans back to acceptable. But still limited on overclock (4.5GHz). CPU seems over-sensitive to water temps, even when the GPU is idle. For high CPU overclock I would like to go to 3x120.

So I think there's a better equation to be found for the "rule of thumb". There seems to be diminishing returns when adding more rads, and I think the heat capacity of the water itself is underestimated, and die size is ignored. No account is made of the heat transfer equation we might remember from high school physics, i.e. the bigger the delta, the more heat is transferred, but the bigger the surface area the more heat is transferred.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I'd already ordered these koolance adapter fittings so figured I'd give them a go. They're 'Plan A'.
> 
> If I do get any leaks, like I already did the first couple times I tried I found out there were leaks between the NPT threads and the Koolance adapters, I've found them so far by using a Q-tip with soapy water.
> 
> If this doesn't work out - I'm still at least a week away from completing this loop before I actually put it to use - then I've got your post with the mcmaster-carr parts list saved. but for now at least that's still 'Plan B'.


Why not use a butane-torch and solder the NPT fitting into your koolance NPT to BSPP adapter? That would definitely be air-tight for life..
And since you can always unscrew the adapter from your rig it's not like you'll permanently ruin anything or something


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The main point of starting was to dispel the myth that massive amount of rad surface area is required for _*adequate*_ components cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> This is why I dislike that "rule of thumb" for radiators. My GPU is not a hot card, but it runs 70C+ on air and loud. If I water cool it, then it's 50C _overclocked_ on a single rad even sharing the loop with the CPU, and quiet. When I doubled the radiator, it was still 50C, just that I could run the fans a bit slower to get that temp.
> 
> CPU (delidded i7-3770K) was a different story. Even a slight overclock (4.2GHz) and temps got higher than air. Running fans harder only helped a few degrees. When I doubled the radiator, temps back to adequate and better overclock and fans back to acceptable. But still limited on overclock (4.5GHz). CPU seems over-sensitive to water temps, even when the GPU is idle. For high CPU overclock I would like to go to 3x120.
> 
> So I think there's a better equation to be found for the "rule of thumb". There seems to be diminishing returns when adding more rads, and I think the heat capacity of the water itself is underestimated, and die size is ignored. No account is made of the heat transfer equation we might remember from high school physics, i.e. the bigger the delta, the more heat is transferred, but the bigger the surface area the more heat is transferred.
Click to expand...

The rule of thumb is for a well balanced loop,a 240 is more than enough for a good OC on a CPU,a 360 is preferred but not demanded. This is why its called the rule of thumb,its just a baseline for a well performing loop. Adding more rads gets to the diminishing returns point far quicker than most realize as you say.
Point in case is my rig,3 480s for a very large loop...When the extension burnt and knocked a rad bank out (F U Phobya,you scabs BTW),temps didnt change one bit....I was chuffed then gutted when I realized that I got a RX 480 for nothing...

The CPU is the thermally limited part in the loop,it runs closer to the redline than GPU's with a much higher clockspeed and voltage,all of this just adds more heat over the GPU.


----------



## stickg1

Kind of like when I had 3x 120mm rads and 1x 240mm. I pulled two of the 120's and planned on replacing them with a single 240mm rad. But then I saw that after pulling those two rads my temps stayed pretty much the exact same. So yeah, I think I'm good with 360mm of rad space.

However I just run a 3570K @ 4.7GHz and a R9 290 @ 1130MHz so according to the "rule of thumb" formula, 360mm is what I should have aimed for anyway.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Kind of like when I had 3x 120mm rads and 1x 240mm. I pulled two of the 120's and planned on replacing them with a single 240mm rad. But then I saw that after pulling those two rads my temps stayed pretty much the exact same. So yeah, I think I'm good with 360mm of rad space.
> 
> However I just run a 3570K @ 4.7GHz and a R9 290 @ 1130MHz so according to the "rule of thumb" formula, 360mm is what I should have aimed for anyway.


It just works,its simple and effective. There is no harm in extra rad,it can promote a quieter rig but some of the recommendations im seeing for rad space are laughable,we are not cooling reactors here.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> nope no problem at all. run it full blast. you wont need to or want to throttle it when its actually cooling either. im less restricted than you and my pump is fine.


If you're pushing the same amount of volume through a tube and increase the restriction doesn't the pressure increase? Pressure was my concern. The rads say they are rated for 1.5 bar (~22psi) and I have no idea what the limits of the fitting o-rings are

Also what do you think is my highest point of restriction? I haven't found pressure graphs for the Koolance motherboard blocks but comparing independent results between your block and manufacturer specs (less than ideal, I know) on the EK one I have they are right in line. Does it matter the order in the loop in regard to restriction?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> nope no problem at all. run it full blast. you wont need to or want to throttle it when its actually cooling either. im less restricted than you and my pump is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> If you're pushing the same amount of volume through a tube and increase the restriction doesn't the pressure increase? Pressure was my concern. The rads say they are rated for 1.5 bar (~22psi) and I have no idea what the limits of the fitting o-rings are
> 
> Also what do you think is my highest point of restriction? I haven't found pressure graphs for the Koolance motherboard blocks but comparing independent results between your block and manufacturer specs (less than ideal, I know) on the EK one I have they are right in line. *Does it matter the order in the loop in regard to restriction?*
Click to expand...

I tend to run thru the GPU's first then the CPU. This applies more to parallel multi GPU setups tho....

The CPU block should be the most restrictive point,unless you have RAM blocks or mobo blocks. I have not done nor seen any comparative testing on mobo blocks regarding flowrate.

As for pressure,unless you are running an Iwaki,the pump cannot even get close to blowing o-rings or tube.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It just works,its simple and effective. There is no harm in extra rad,it can promote a quieter rig but some of the recommendations im seeing for rad space are laughable*,we are not cooling reactors here.*


I think Szeged is trying to!!! Here's his EVBot pic, lol.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Not sure I understand what you mean. If a bubble is caught in the bottom fo the res, it might get sucked up? Isn't that true regardless of how short or long I make the dip tubes, it might suck an errant bubble in? I would figure that the outlet tube being longer would reduce the chance of that (or inlet tube too, but i'm not really worried about air possible going to res, it'll probably get shot back into the res with the flow anyways).
> 
> On a related note, can the EK Internal tubes be used with G1/4" fittings, like in other reservoirs? I'd like to use clear tubing for the dip tubes, and if I use a barb + vinyl tubing it might not fit on the inside of the res due to the fitting spacing actually.


yes the res does have the indentation which makes them flush but they are still the most low profile stop fittings I have personally seen. The ek stop fittings have a groove for the o-ring to sit in which allows them to sit a little more flush. I have ek fittings and bitspower on my blocks right now so no dust gets in while I'm building and the ek stop fittings look so much better.

Also talking about rad space. my first loop was a single rx360 with just push fans cooling 2 680's and a 1.45v 3930k. I never measured water temperature but my component temps were very respectable.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It just works,its simple and effective. There is no harm in extra rad,it can promote a quieter rig but some of the recommendations im seeing for rad space are laughable*,we are not cooling reactors here.*
> 
> 
> 
> I think Szeged is trying to!!! Here's his EVBot pic, lol.
Click to expand...

Thats looks like its going to be .........expensive.
I would look towards DICE if I was him.

Fair play,he is braver than me.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It just works,its simple and effective. There is no harm in extra rad,it can promote a quieter rig but some of the recommendations im seeing for rad space are laughable,we are not cooling reactors here.


Yeah I put one of the 120mm's back in. It just helps with tube routing so I don't have a foot long piece of tubing going from one side to the other of my mid tower case. I just set the fans on 7v and I fold 24/7 with great temps.

Plus this particular 120mm rad I decided to put back in, I can't even identify the brand or model, neither could the person that sold it to me. It has some chipped paint, I could get maybe $20 for it and it would cost $8 to ship? I'll just keep it. I'll give it a touch up. From what I can see on the inside it's copper and it's super clean still.

Maybe someone here can help identify it. I'm sure it's a few years old.

1. It's a 120mm rad that looks similar shape to a ST30
2. It has two rivets on the side casing
3. It's 28mm thick
4. Threaded with M3 holes


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *I tend to run thru the GPU's first then the CPU. This applies more to parallel multi GPU setups tho....
> *


This is similar to the way I figured I should set my loop up. Since I have 4x 480 UT60's I ran the CPU into the first 480 then to the GPU's from there before hitting 3 more 480's to cool down then hit the CPU again to repeat. Hoping the 480 would cool the water down a bit from the CPU prior to hitting the GPU's.


----------



## Inelastic

I managed to sucessfully cool my I5-3570K @ 4.6GHz with a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro until I upgraded to my custom loop. My gaming temps were low 60s and prime95 temps were mid 70s.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This is similar to the way I figured I should set my loop up. Since I have 4x 480 UT60's I ran the CPU into the first 480 then to the GPU's from there before hitting 3 more 480's to cool down then hit the CPU again to repeat. Hoping the 480 would cool the water down a bit from the CPU prior to hitting the GPU's.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Who's the sluzy in the skirt and knee socks?


----------



## RickRockerr

Just saw that conversation about rad space and what's really necessary and wondered how big temp increase I might face if I add another 670 in the loop?
I have two 280 rads (30mm & 45mm) and max temps are 60°C on cpu and 44 on gpu.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Just saw that conversation about rad space and what's really necessary and wondered how big temp increase I might face if I add another 670 in the loop?
> I have two 280 rads (30mm & 45mm) and max temps are 60°C on cpu and 44 on gpu.


What type of fans? It's hard to say, I'm by no means an expert, but if the temps went up more than a couple of degrees I would be shocked.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Just saw that conversation about rad space and what's really necessary and wondered how big temp increase I might face if I add another 670 in the loop?
> I have two 280 rads (30mm & 45mm) and max temps are 60°C on cpu and 44 on gpu.
> 
> 
> 
> What type of fans? It's hard to say, I'm by no means an expert, but if the temps went up more than a couple of degrees I would be shocked.
Click to expand...

@JackNaylorPE created a real useful thread on the topic of calculating how much heat components will generate. http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It just works,its simple and effective. There is no harm in extra rad,it can promote a quieter rig but some of the recommendations im seeing for rad space are laughable,we are not cooling reactors here.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I put one of the 120mm's back in. It just helps with tube routing so I don't have a foot long piece of tubing going from one side to the other of my mid tower case. I just set the fans on 7v and I fold 24/7 with great temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Plus this particular 120mm rad I decided to put back in, I can't even identify the brand or model, neither could the person that sold it to me. It has some chipped paint, I could get maybe $20 for it and it would cost $8 to ship? I'll just keep it. I'll give it a touch up. From what I can see on the inside it's copper and it's super clean still.
> 
> Maybe someone here can help identify it. I'm sure it's a few years old.
> 
> 1. It's a 120mm rad that looks similar shape to a ST30
> 2. It has two rivets on the side casing
> 3. It's 28mm thick
> 4. Threaded with M3 holes
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a Magicool Pro Slim 120 to me
Click to expand...


----------



## RickRockerr

Both rads running with corsair AF140 quiet editions @ 7V. 30mm in push and 45mm in push/pull.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> 
> 
> What type of fans? It's hard to say, I'm by no means an expert, but if the temps went up more than a couple of degrees I would be shocked.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @JackNaylorPE
> created a real useful thread on the topic of calculating how much heat components will generate. http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator
Click to expand...

If only it was accurate with RL findings......


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Both rads running with corsair AF140 quiet editions @ 7V. 30mm in push and 45mm in push/pull.


Running AF140 fans on rads is a terrible idea. They have no static pressure. Get rad fans. You're pretty much wasting your radspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If only it was accurate with RL findings......


Yeah, i'm definitely not educated enough to comment on the accuracy. He seems to know his ish tho


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Both rads running with corsair AF140 quiet editions @ 7V. 30mm in push and 45mm in push/pull.
> 
> 
> 
> Running AF140 fans on rads is a terrible idea. They have no static pressure. Get rad fans. You're pretty much wasting your radspace
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If only it was accurate with RL findings......
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, i'm definitely not educated enough to comment on the accuracy. He seems to know his ish tho
Click to expand...

The numbers are good but he is labouring under poor data,PSU calc are notorious for overestimating draw,therefore the heat that needs dissipating.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Running AF140 fans on rads is a terrible idea. They have no static pressure. Get rad fans. You're pretty much wasting your radspace


Yeah but is it worth it to change the fans if we compare the temp decrease and price for 6 fans.
If we look for example Akasa 140mm Apache Super Silent for $16 it would cost $96 + shipping to change the fans.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The numbers are good but he is labouring under poor data,PSU calc are notorious for overestimating draw,therefore the heat that needs dissipating.


Good to know. Thanx +1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Running AF140 fans on rads is a terrible idea. They have no static pressure. Get rad fans. You're pretty much wasting your radspace
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but is it worth it to change the fans if we compare the temp decrease and price for 6 fans.
Click to expand...

YESSSS!!!!!

Static Pressure is very important with heatsinks and radiators.

The way you're looking at it is like "Why even buy fans for it at all?"


----------



## OdinValk

what website has the best prices and best equipment to build a custom loop? what brand should i go with? I dont wanna pay top dollar.. but I dont want a garbage system either..

I know of Xoxide.com and FrozenCPU.com

is there another better? and again.. which brand of parts is better for a mid level price?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> what website has the best prices and best equipment to build a custom loop? what brand should i go with? I dont wanna pay top dollar.. but I dont want a garbage system either..
> 
> I know of Xoxide.com and FrozenCPU.com
> 
> is there another better? and again.. which brand of parts is better for a mid level price?


I think this is a pretty good value. I don't know what case your building in, but if this will fit, I would go with it. Just add a GPU block and two more fittings. Wam bam, thank you mam.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=39812

But to better answer your question. Performance-PCs.com has a good selection and competitive pricing. Also see FrozenCPU.com and Sidewindercomputers.com


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> YESSSS!!!!!
> Static Pressure is very important with heatsinks and radiators.
> The way you're looking at it is like "Why even buy fans for it at all?"


Well I just think would over $100 be really worth it? And what would be realistic temp drop?
When I put my hand under 30mm rad i feel that there is a good airflow though it's little bit weaker than another AF140 at the same speed pushing air only through grill.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think this is a pretty good value. I don't know what case your building in, but if this will fit, I would go with it. Just add a GPU block and two more fittings. Wam bam, thank you mam.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=39812
> 
> But to better answer your question. Performance-PCs.com has a good selection and competitive pricing. Also see FrozenCPU.com and Sidewindercomputers.com


I am currently using a Corsair Carbide 400R mid-size case... I've seen plenty of others put custom loops in.. and at the moment.. I'm not looking to cool the GPU// only the CPU.. as there is no one who makes backplates or waterblocks for my GPU.. if it was a reference card then yea maybe.. but I have one of MSI's Twin Frozr cards.. and I've yet to find anyone who makes the parts required to cool them..

and really, I'm doing this more for looks than anything.. currently I have a Corsair H100i in my PC.. and it cools my CPU really well.. but the custom loops look really nice.. and who knows.. maybe I can get a few degrees lower out of it.. at the moment.. my cpu at idle is only a few degrees above ambient.. maybe I can a few degrees lower under load.. but yea.. any suggestions are welcome.. I will probably have to buy a few parts here and there and save my pennies and buy a few parts spread out over a couple months..

so anyone who has any advice on building my first loop.. please don't hesitate to PM me or post here and give me some useful pointers

also.. that link you posted.. wouldnt work.. I have an AMD cpu.. I know most people run intel and swear by them.. but I enjoy my AMD.. so whatever I but will need to have a block that can fit on the am3+ socket


----------



## snef

some night shoot of "Sand of God"


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I am currently using a Corsair Carbide 400R mid-size case... I've seen plenty of others put custom loops in.. and at the moment.. I'm not looking to cool the GPU// only the CPU.. as there is no one who makes backplates or waterblocks for my GPU.. if it was a reference card then yea maybe.. but I have one of MSI's Twin Frozr cards.. and I've yet to find anyone who makes the parts required to cool them..
> 
> and really, I'm doing this more for looks than anything.. currently I have a Corsair H100i in my PC.. and it cools my CPU really well.. but the custom loops look really nice.. and who knows.. maybe I can get a few degrees lower out of it.. at the moment.. my cpu at idle is only a few degrees above ambient.. maybe I can a few degrees lower under load.. but yea.. any suggestions are welcome.. I will probably have to buy a few parts here and there and save my pennies and buy a few parts spread out over a couple months..
> 
> so anyone who has any advice on building my first loop.. please don't hesitate to PM me or post here and give me some useful pointers
> 
> also.. that link you posted.. wouldnt work.. I have an AMD cpu.. I know most people run intel and swear by them.. but I enjoy my AMD.. so whatever I but will need to have a block that can fit on the am3+ socket


I think the best plan of attack is starting a help thread in the watercooling section of the forum.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Well I just think would over $100 be really worth it? And what would be realistic temp drop?
> When I put my hand under 30mm rad i feel that there is a good airflow though it's little bit weaker than another AF140 at the same speed pushing air only through grill.


Priceerformance is always a factor. And you have to find your own middleground between the two. Corsair AF140's cost about as much as some of the priciest rad fans. You could always sell them on the OCN Marketplace to recoupe some of your money.

You could get some 8-9 dollar Yate Loons or XSPC Xinrulians and still have a huge performance increase over the AF140's.

There's Akasa Vipers, Akasa Apache's (14-16 bux), Cougars (15-20 bux), Noiseblocker Black Silent Pro's (~20 bux), Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex (~28 bux), San Ace (~50 bux)

Pick your price range. Anything's better than AF's for your rad. You need fans with static pressure. Seriously Yate Loons and XSPC's are less than 10 bux each and are both wayyyyyy better for rads & heatsinks

Edit: there's a reason that Corsair has 2 specific fan models, SP's (Static Pressure) & AF's (Airflow). If AF's were anywhere near decent for rads then they would have no need for their SP's.


----------



## Pimphare

Well I was almost ready for a leak test.


I was about to make the last bend on the last piece of tubing to complete my loop and broke it and got cut!







And it was my last piece of acrylic long enough for what I needed.


Oh well. I still have a few other things I need to order. You live and learn. Time for some


----------



## stickg1

Well, fwiw, the bends that did work look great! Pour some booze on that cut and take a couple shots!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37600-phanteks-f140hp?showall=&start=3
> 
> Phanteks SP140 / XP 140
> 
> And yes on the 280s being worth it, ..... not so much on the Monsta tho.....check the thread here
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator
> 
> I have a 4770k which I had at 46 multiplier / 46 cache up until last BIOS upgrade which is sending too much voltage and twin 780s w/ 25+% OC on cre and 20+% on memory .... not quite as hot as your 290x's but close. I have an Alphacool XT45-420 on top and a UT60 on bottom w/ just (5) 1200 rpm SP140s in push. At full fan rpm, I maintain 75C under RoG Bench and GPUs are at 39C under Furmark


Thank you for all that helpful information.









I think I will go for 280's instead of 240's for my rads.

I'm going to have to admit Im an aesthetics kind of guy and while the phanteks look pretty good the white blades wouldn't go to well with my case. (unless I could paint them black or another color without too much of a performance hit)

What about the Cougar 140's or the Bit Fenix Spectre Pro 140's? I like the looks of both of those as well and they appear to be well suited for rad use. I do want the quietest and strongest airflow possible though.


----------



## OdinValk

Since I will be building my own custom loop.. could I butcher my H100i and use the radiator from it at first? since I'm on a budget.. I will try and find ways to cut down on cost.. if I could use the rad from my H100i, I could get some other things for now.. and down the road.. get a better radiator from EK or alphacool or something


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Since I will be building my own custom loop.. could I butcher my H100i and use the radiator from it at first? since I'm on a budget.. I will try and find ways to cut down on cost.. if I could use the rad from my H100i, I could get some other things for now.. and down the road.. get a better radiator from EK or alphacool or something


I would keep the h100i fully assembled. You're killing a 100 dollar part for a 30 dollar one. Plus it's a good idea to keep it around in case you need it. My loop was down for a month, and had to use a Evo212. You never know. Or just sell it and use that cash for a better rad.


----------



## OdinValk

yea.. it was just a quick thought.. anyway.. another question I have.. (I've started a thread elsewhere but no one is responding, so I'm asking here) Is there anywhere that any of you know of.. where I can get a waterblock for my MSI Twin Frozr GTX 760 card? most of the water blocks out there are made for the Nvidia or ATI or their reference cards... and no one seems to make em for these cards


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> yea.. it was just a quick thought.. anyway.. another question I have.. (I've started a thread elsewhere but no one is responding, so I'm asking here) Is there anywhere that any of you know of.. where I can get a waterblock for my MSI Twin Frozr GTX 760 card? most of the water blocks out there are made for the Nvidia or ATI or their reference cards... and no one seems to make em for these cards


Isn't the Twin Frozr 760 a reference board with the MSI cooler? I thought the HAWK was the only non reference 760 that MSI offered. I'm not 100% sure. I 'll try to dig some in information for you.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well I was almost ready for a leak test.
> 
> 
> I was about to make the last bend on the last piece of tubing to complete my loop and broke it and got cut!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it was my last piece of acrylic long enough for what I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well. I still have a few other things I need to order. You live and learn. Time for some


Damn, sorry to hear about the delays. But those bends look phenomenal. Keep up the great work!!!

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37600-phanteks-f140hp?showall=&start=3
> 
> Phanteks SP140 / XP 140
> 
> And yes on the 280s being worth it, ..... not so much on the Monsta tho.....check the thread here
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator
> 
> I have a 4770k which I had at 46 multiplier / 46 cache up until last BIOS upgrade which is sending too much voltage and twin 780s w/ 25+% OC on cre and 20+% on memory .... not quite as hot as your 290x's but close. I have an Alphacool XT45-420 on top and a UT60 on bottom *w/ just (5) 1200 rpm SP140s in push.* At full fan rpm, I maintain 75C under RoG Bench and GPUs are at 39C under Furmark


Am i missing something? When did Corsair release SP140's??

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I think I will go for 280's instead of 240's for my rads.
> 
> I'm going to have to admit Im an aesthetics kind of guy and while the phanteks look pretty good the white blades wouldn't go to well with my case. (unless I could paint them black or another color without too much of a performance hit)
> 
> What about the Cougar 140's or the Bit Fenix Spectre Pro 140's? I like the looks of both of those as well and they appear to be well suited for rad use. I do want the quietest and strongest airflow possible though.


Spectre Pro's suck from what i hear. Everybody says they're real noisy. Cougars have a great reputation. I personally can't bring myself to buy any fan that can't go above 1200RPM's. Akasa Vipers are really good 140's. So are Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex and Noiseblocker Black Silent Pro's

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Since I will be building my own custom loop.. could I butcher my H100i and use the radiator from it at first? since I'm on a budget.. I will try and find ways to cut down on cost.. if I could use the rad from my H100i, I could get some other things for now.. and down the road.. get a better radiator from EK or alphacool or something


You could always sell your h100i on the OCN Marketplace. What you're talking about will work, but like @LaBestiaHumana said, you'd basically be throwing away money (the money they charge for the pump/block/res)


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Isn't the Twin Frozr 760 a reference board with the MSI cooler? I thought the HAWK was the only non reference 760 that MSI offered. I'm not 100% sure. I 'll try to dig some in information for you.


as far as I know... the MSI gaming edition cards are not reference cards.. I could be wrong as I am fairly new to all this.. and could just be talking out of my ass... but everywhere I've looked.. I've not found a block that looks like it fits.. and I dont want to just cool the chip.. I'd like to cool the whole board.. as it has memory and such that are also cooled by the heatsink and fans and so on


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> as far as I know... the MSI gaming edition cards are not reference cards.. I could be wrong as I am fairly new to all this.. and could just be talking out of my ass... but everywhere I've looked.. I've not found a block that looks like it fits.. and I dont want to just cool the chip.. I'd like to cool the whole board.. as it has memory and such that are also cooled by the heatsink and fans and so on


There are no full cover blocks for that model GPU. You could always use a universal GPU block. You would have to use heatsinks to passively cool the VRMs and RAM though.


----------



## kpoeticg

I thought Twin Frozr's and Lighting's were both custom pcb's. I'm really not sure though.


----------



## MiiX

Guys,if i got fan -> rad setup in push config, how close can a "wall" be to the radiator without noticable temp or noise changes? The "wall" will just cover ~50% of each "fan slot" on the oposite side of the fans. This is hard to explain without a picture, but im on my phone.
Thanks.

Edit:
Here is a picture i manged to make with an app.
The space i talk about is where the red arrows are. The space between rad and wall


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I thought Twin Frozr's and Lighting's were both custom pcb's. I'm really not sure though.


All Lightnings use custom PCB's but not all TF's do.


----------



## nismoskyline

Just finished my new build, tell me what you think, sorry for the crappy cell phone camera pic, i was excited i got it all done.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Guys,if i got fan -> rad setup in push config, how close can a "wall" be to the radiator without noticable temp or noise changes? The "wall" will just cover ~50% of each "fan slot" on the oposite side of the fans. This is hard to explain without a picture, but im on my phone.
> Thanks.


Fans push air through a radiator by drawing it in from the outside of your chassis.

You should have fan holes pretty much 100% exposed on the open-air side of the fans. The exception to this (obviously) is filters and grills.

Edit: are you talking about a chassis wall or house wall?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> All Lightnings use custom PCB's but not all TF's do.


Thanx for clearing that up for me


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Fans push air through a radiator by drawing it in from the outside of your chassis.
> You should have fan holes pretty much 100% exposed on the open-air side of the fans. The exception to this (obviously) is filters and grills.


I was thinking about the exhaust, the intake is pretty open. See picture, hopefully its usable till I get on my pc agqin


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanx for clearing that up for me


and I do believe that the TF GTX 760 is indeed a custom PCB.... I have seen a few blocks that look pretty close but without seeing it in my hand.. its hard to say if it will fit or not


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I was thinking about the exhaust, the intake is pretty open. See picture, hopefully its usable till I get on my pc agqin


Is that a wall on your PC or House?

If it's your PC, the rad should be mounted AGAINST the wall with cutouts the size of the fans on the other side, or just the entire size of the fins with a grill on it


----------



## fast_fate

OMG !!!















Look what I just found in back of cupboard.
Unbelievable - Forgot I even had this gear











































R3E and tri-fire 7970's waiting for some action


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Is that a wall on your PC or House?
> 
> If it's your PC, the rad should be mounted AGAINST the wall with cutouts the size of the fans on the other side, or just the entire size of the fins with a grill on it


The wall i talk about is really a radiator. The radiator in the picture is going to be mounted to the op of the case. I will post a better picture tomorrow.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> OMG !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look what I just found in back of cupboard.
> Unbelievable - Forgot I even had this gear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R3E and tri-fire 7970's waiting for some action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't even have words to express how i'm feeling about the fact that you're in a position to "forget" about an R3E and 3 7970's.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> The wall i talk about is really a radiator. The radiator in the picture is going to be mounted to the op of the case. I will post a better picture tomorrow.


Cool. Post a pic tomorrow so it's easier to help. We'll all still be here


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Am i missing something? When did Corsair release SP140's??
> 
> Spectre Pro's suck from what i hear. Everybody says they're real noisy. Cougars have a great reputation. I personally can't bring myself to buy any fan that can't go above 1200RPM's. Akasa Vipers are really good 140's. So are Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex and Noiseblocker Black Silent Pro's


Yeah I have one Viper 140 and its nice and quiet and moves a lot of air. Its not much on the looks side though. I'm a little superficial when it comes to fans had a woman comparison here but decided against it lol

I think he was talking about the phantek fans. theyre named 140sp I think


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It just works,its simple and effective. There is no harm in extra rad,it can promote a quieter rig but some of the recommendations im seeing for rad space are laughable,we are not cooling reactors here.


lol... saw some one recommend 1 480 per 290x today in Star Citizen chatroll. Needless to say, after a 15 second face palm, i had to butt in & tell the man that his recommendation was utter lunacy. It all started with another person (obviously blowing smoke) saying " I'm still trying to figure out how to fit enough rads into this caselabs full tower to cool 3x 290x"


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well, fwiw, the bends that did work look great! Pour some booze on that cut and take a couple shots!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Damn, sorry to hear about the delays. But those bends look phenomenal. Keep up the great work!!!


Thanks for your kind words. I've been having a lot of fun with my first water cooled build. Getting a bit anxious to get it all together.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

here my first attempt at bending acrylic tube guys, also did this free handed....


----------



## ryanallan

^^ Looks 100x better with the lights off!

Nice work, the bends looks pretty good to me.


----------



## ryanallan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Just finished my new build, tell me what you think, sorry for the crappy cell phone camera pic, i was excited i got it all done.


Looks nice








I'd be interested in some decent pics!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here my first attempt at bending acrylic tube guys, also did this free handed....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! What is that silver heat sink wrapped block to the right of the motherboard USB 3.0 header?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

thanks guys!!!

it's a 12v to 24v dc converter for cars but i'm using for my pump.. if curious here the pumps im using

http://www.lightobject.com/Solar-water-pump-40Lm-635GPH-DC24V-High-Temperature-100-39C-P570.aspx

Features:
High temperature handling up to 100'C/ 212'F (inline)
High volume output with flow control
Power: DC12V~24V
Heavy duty and 100% water sealed & submersible
0-5V analog speed control or digital control (TTL)
Long life for up to 10 years with normal use
Low noise, only generate 38db
Pumps water, oil, and gasoline

Specification
Power: DC12~24V
Current: [email protected], [email protected]
Output: 40.0L/m (635 GPH) @24V or 380GPH @ 12V
Pressure: 9.3psi @24V
Motor: DC 3 phase coil, more torque and quiet
Power: 84Watt/ 19.2Watt
Speed control(3 wires): 0-5V analog
Intake: G1/2 (1/2")
Outlet: G1/2 (1/2")
Vertical lift: 6.5m (21ft)
Life span: > 20,000hrs @ 1600rpm~10,00rpm
Noise: << 38dB
Working Temp: 100'C/ 212'F (non-submersed)
Envir Temp: <50'C


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here my first attempt at bending acrylic tube guys, also did this free handed....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah!!! Another free-hand acrylic bending job. Nice job...









I wish the monsoon bending kits were out when I did mine... but it can be done without them. Thank God for those cotton gloves... huh?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Yeah!!! Another free-hand acrylic bending job. Nice job...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish the monsoon bending kits were out when I did mine... but it can be done without them. Thank God for those cotton gloves... huh?


thanks.. i though it was hard at first but once you find the melting point of the acrylic and with some patient i did it some how lol.. my hand were cramping like crazy after i was done lol


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here my first attempt at bending acrylic tube guys, also did this free handed....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What coolant/dye is that? Or is that colored tube?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

i'm actually using a couple drops of yellow food coloring dye, with distill and iodine.. it looks more gold than yellow


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here my first attempt at bending acrylic tube guys, also did this free handed....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm guessing you plumbed the video card that way with the right side tube to facilitate adding additional cards at a later time??


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'm guessing you plumbed the video card that way with the right side tube to facilitate adding additional cards at a later time??


good observation my friend and that is correct.. i will be adding 2 more 290's to the loop..


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here my first attempt at bending acrylic tube guys, also did this free handed....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build,the more i see these acrylic builds the more i want to try it....Love the j'can flag in the background....


----------



## jamaican voodoo

thanks bro!! it just takes some patients and planing you can do it...we of to represent wi yard!!! lol


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> thanks bro!! it just takes some patients and planing you can do it...we of to represent wi yard!!! lol


Same way,yardie fi life....


----------



## jamaican voodoo

on another note i want to throw my finding out with those of you don't mind trying somethings new
here a pic of polythethylene tube that got from home depot bending it like acrylic using the same method.. it semi ridged so it can flex
just wanted to show you my findings... you could use primo chill ghost fittings or bitspower c47 with some force, the tube flex's just enought for it to fit with out filing the edges ..


----------



## cyphon

Interesting...don't see why it wouldn't work. Probably a little easier to fit into place since it does flex a little.

Aesthetically tho, I think the acrylics are nicer


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Haswell (and IB) run hot because of the crap junk intel used between the ihs and the die. Once delid and replaced with some good stuff, they run as hot underwater as SB, SB-E, and IB-E. Personally, i did a 4670K and got a good 10-15° drop on a fairly hot chip once i dlided. Some folks saw ~20-25°c drop after delid on very hot chips.


That's actually a myth. The stock paste intel uses is actually quite high quality, the problem is there is a large gap and high quality TIM isn't as good as fluxless solder for heat transfer. Delidding and keeping the stock paste have shown the same temp drops as delidding and using any other ceramique (of course, CLU is far better, but clu isn't a ceramique).

The main goal of delidding is reducing the gap, which you do by rubbing off the black glue that's as thick as roofing tar on the chip.

A 10-15C temp drop is very low for a delid. I'm guessing you aren't using CLU/CLP? Average temp drop is around 25C with CLU.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Not sure I understand what you mean. If a bubble is caught in the bottom fo the res, it might get sucked up? Isn't that true regardless of how short or long I make the dip tubes, it might suck an errant bubble in? I would figure that the outlet tube being longer would reduce the chance of that (or inlet tube too, but i'm not really worried about air possible going to res, it'll probably get shot back into the res with the flow anyways).
> 
> On a related note, can the EK Internal tubes be used with G1/4" fittings, like in other reservoirs? I'd like to use clear tubing for the dip tubes, and if I use a barb + vinyl tubing it might not fit on the inside of the res due to the fitting spacing actually.
> 
> 
> 
> yes the res does have the indentation which makes them flush but they are still the most low profile stop fittings I have personally seen. The ek stop fittings have a groove for the o-ring to sit in which allows them to sit a little more flush. I have ek fittings and bitspower on my blocks right now so no dust gets in while I'm building and the ek stop fittings look so much better.
> 
> Also talking about rad space. my first loop was a single rx360 with just push fans cooling 2 680's and a 1.45v 3930k. I never measured water temperature but my component temps were very respectable.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Have you used the bitspower low profile fittings that are even smaller then the normal stop plugs?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Interesting...don't see why it wouldn't work. Probably a little easier to fit into place since it does flex a little.
> 
> Aesthetically tho, I think the acrylics are nicer


yea totally agree about the look of the acrylic...i think the polyethylene would be great for someone who wanted a forested look instead of clear..


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> on another note i want to throw my finding out with those of you don't mind trying somethings new
> here a pic of polythethylene tube that got from home depot bending it like acrylic using the same method.. it semi ridged so it can flex
> just wanted to show you my findings... you could use primo chill ghost fittings or bitspower c47 with some force, the tube flex's just enought for it to fit with out filing the edges ..


Some of the best hardware and materials for PC builds can be found at Home Depot. In fact, the flexible clear tubing in my current setup remained clearer 10 times longer than the Primochill I bought and used for the same duration of time.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Some of the best hardware and materials for PC builds can be found at Home Depot. In fact, the flexible clear tubing in my current setup remained clearer 10 times longer than the Primochill I bought and used for the same duration of time.


very true...thats were i got my tubing from too, before i switch to acrylic


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i'm actually using a couple drops of yellow food coloring dye, with distill and iodine.. it looks more gold than yellow


Thanks. A while back i was given the idea by another ocn member to do a clean motor oil colored coolant in my robocop build, i had kind of scrapped the idea mainly because i was unsure how to achieve the color and how it would even look. Well that color you achieved there is petty much how i think that would look which has breathed new life into the idea for me


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yeah I have one Viper 140 and its nice and quiet and moves a lot of air. Its not much on the looks side though. I'm a little superficial when it comes to fans had a woman comparison here but decided against it lol
> 
> I think he was talking about the phantek fans. theyre named 140sp I think


Thanx for pointing that out about the Phanteks. +1

Also, I died my Vipers. Never finished the job because i upgraded to a 360



Quote:



> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> on another note i want to throw my finding out with those of you don't mind trying somethings new
> here a pic of polythethylene tube that got from home depot bending it like acrylic using the same method.. it semi ridged so it can flex
> just wanted to show you my findings... you could use primo chill ghost fittings or bitspower c47 with some force, the tube flex's just enought for it to fit with out filing the edges ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the best hardware and materials for PC builds can be found at Home Depot. In fact, the flexible clear tubing in my current setup remained clearer 10 times longer than the Primochill I bought and used for the same duration of time.
Click to expand...

Home Depot flexible tubing usually has plasticizer form within a few days to a cpl weeks. I've never heard anybody not have it leech. 
I wonder what's the deal with that polyethylene tubing. Is the chemicals that cause plasticizer in it?


----------



## wermad

I like the yellow









Everyone is out of vipers, hoping they're not eol


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *I like the yellow*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone is out of vipers, hoping they're not eol












Yeah, the Cherry Red Rit Dye didn't go quite how i was hoping =P

I know what the problem was though. The tutorial i read that said to use Rit Dye was before they changed their formula. Now it's not real good for plastics & nylons. Prosperse Disperse Dye & Dye Carrier is supposed to be the shizznit tho. I just have no reason to continue now lol

Maybe i'll find some excuse to dye more fan blades in the future


----------



## Skuli

I completed my acrylic tubing installation and picked up the glass top for my computer end table.

I have a *huge respect* for folks who have done builds with acrylic tubing. It's not as easy as I imagined.

Leak test will have to wait until Sunday.

Here's a couple photos of the current state of my build.





And here's the bending table / jig I made. I did all the bending in my basement workshop while the computer was upstairs. I got my exercise as I probably made 4 trips for each piece.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> I completed my acrylic tubing installation and picked up the glass top for my computer end table.
> 
> I have a *huge respect* for folks who have done builds with acrylic tubing. It's not as easy as I imagined.
> 
> Leak test will have to wait until Sunday.
> 
> Here's a couple photos of the current state of my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the bending table / jig I made. I did all the bending in my basement workshop while the computer was upstairs. I got my exercise as I probably made 4 trips for each piece.


Oh man that's amazing! Log?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> I completed my acrylic tubing installation and picked up the glass top for my computer end table.
> 
> I have a *huge respect* for folks who have done builds with acrylic tubing. It's not as easy as I imagined.
> 
> Leak test will have to wait until Sunday.
> 
> Here's a couple photos of the current state of my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the bending table / jig I made. I did all the bending in my basement workshop while the computer was upstairs. I got my exercise as I probably made 4 trips for each piece.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's one Awesome build....







....How long did it take to complete....?


----------



## Johri

Quick question, hope that's okay- am I safe to run boiling water through my radiators for the initial flushes? I have a sink with a boiling water tap, but I am unsure as to whether or not this is too hot for the radiators. Thanks in advance and sorry if I'm not allowed to ask this here!

E: Oops, probably good if I tell you what rads I have. I have a 240mm and a 360mm EK XT rad.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> on another note i want to throw my finding out with those of you don't mind trying somethings new
> here a pic of polythethylene tube that got from home depot bending it like acrylic using the same method.. it semi ridged so it can flex
> just wanted to show you my findings... you could use primo chill ghost fittings or bitspower c47 with some force, the tube flex's just enought for it to fit with out filing the edges ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great find, I might try that out, I really like the color.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johri*
> 
> Quick question, hope that's okay- am I safe to run boiling water through my radiators for the initial flushes? I have a sink with a boiling water tap, but I am unsure as to whether or not this is too hot for the radiators. Thanks in advance and sorry if I'm not allowed to ask this here!
> 
> E: Oops, probably good if I tell you what rads I have. I have a 240mm and a 360mm EK XT rad.


The hotter the better,remember that the rads will be just as hot as the water so gloves....and thick ones...are recommended.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Day 2: getting better with measurements and bends, but I still need a lot more practice to get where I wanna be. Bends aren't very sharp. I kinda want to blame the McMaster Carr acrylic I'm using. Got everything done, except 1 piece, it is very long, and I ram out of acrylic. I thought 24ft would be plenty.

Here are the pics:


----------



## Johri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The hotter the better,remember that the rads will be just as hot as the water so gloves....and thick ones...are recommended.


Aye I have some working gloves, should be fine. Will see how it works out then, thanks!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> I completed my acrylic tubing installation and picked up the glass top for my computer end table.
> 
> I have a *huge respect* for folks who have done builds with acrylic tubing. It's not as easy as I imagined.
> 
> Leak test will have to wait until Sunday.
> 
> Here's a couple photos of the current state of my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the bending table / jig I made. I did all the bending in my basement workshop while the computer was upstairs. I got my exercise as I probably made 4 trips for each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh man that's amazing! Log?
Click to expand...

Hell yeah. That's absolutely incredible work. I'd also love a link to a build log if one exists!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Day 2: getting better with measurements and bends, but I still need a lot more practice to get where I wanna be. Bends aren't very sharp. I kinda want to blame the McMaster Carr acrylic I'm using. Got everything done, except 1 piece, it is very long, and I ram out of acrylic. I thought 24ft would be plenty.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PiCS
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the pics:


Coming along great!! Already looks better than it did yesterday. Runs look much cleaner


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Day 2: getting better with measurements and bends, but I still need a lot more practice to get where I wanna be. Bends aren't very sharp. I kinda want to blame the McMaster Carr acrylic I'm using. Got everything done, except 1 piece, it is very long, and I ram out of acrylic. I thought 24ft would be plenty.
> 
> Here are the pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good man,now hurry up and finish and get back on cod ghost....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Looking good man,now hurry up and finish and get back on cod ghost....


Gonna grab some more tubing tomorrow, I'll be on Ghosts by Tue or Wed of next week, hopefully the system passes all the leak tests. That EK coolant I received that looks like piss, can be seen with UV lights, so it will be easy to spot in hard to see places.


----------



## kpoeticg

Some stuff that just came in yesterday from Performance-PCs =)


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Some stuff that just came in yesterday from Performance-PCs =)


Got some nice hardware there sir. This is gonna be a nice build/upgrade. Looking forward to the pics.


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx. I hope it's gonna be. =)

It's the TRiCLOPS build log in my sig if you ever wanna check it out. Still got a bunch of modding to do before it's finished









The Compression Fittings and Tubing i ordered are just to hold me over til Monsoon releases their Hardline Series.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johri*
> 
> Quick question, hope that's okay- am I safe to run boiling water through my radiators for the initial flushes? I have a sink with a boiling water tap, but I am unsure as to whether or not this is too hot for the radiators. Thanks in advance and sorry if I'm not allowed to ask this here!
> 
> E: Oops, probably good if I tell you what rads I have. I have a 240mm and a 360mm EK XT rad.


When I first got my rads, I boiled water in my kettle and use that to flush them out...and yes, wear gloves.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Home Depot flexible tubing usually has plasticizer form within a few days to a cpl weeks. I've never heard anybody not have it leech.
> I wonder what's the deal with that polyethylene tubing. Is the chemicals that cause plasticizer in it?


Would it be safe to assume that it won't leech plasticizer if it's rated for use in drinking water? That's the same tubing (polyethelyne) we use on dye lasers in my lab because of its high chemical resistance to solvents like methanol.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> OMG !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look what I just found in back of cupboard.
> Unbelievable - Forgot I even had this gear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R3E and tri-fire 7970's waiting for some action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


***.. How bigs the cupboard!!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Cool. Post a pic tomorrow so it's easier to help. We'll all still be here


So! Here you got a better picture of what i MAY be doing later. How do you much space do I "need" between rad #1 and rad #2? Now its 30mm, should it be more, or can it be less without affecting performance noticeable?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> ***.. How bigs the cupboard!!


You know what makes it even worse, the case it was was stashed in had an old but working Aquaero 4 in it.
and a new 280 rad with 4 Noisblocker PK2's attached.
Too many projects


----------



## Tomalak

Hmm...what could possibly go wrong...


----------



## nepToon

My first bends, it's a challenge but the results are worth it imo








Wish I had that new bending set though.



/edit, heres the last bend for the day:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Day 2: getting better with measurements and bends, but I still need a lot more practice to get where I wanna be. Bends aren't very sharp. I kinda want to blame the McMaster Carr acrylic I'm using. Got everything done, except 1 piece, it is very long, and I ram out of acrylic. I thought 24ft would be plenty.
> 
> Here are the pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've worked with the McMaster Carr tubing on several projects, and it is more difficult to work with than E22 or some of the other options.

Even cutting, sanding, and polishing are more challenging.

Being that it's extruded, as opposed to cast, I believe is the reason.

It has a lower heat tolerance, and goes from "still too stiff to bend" to "too friggin' soft and noodley" REAL fast.

To get good bends with it, I found holding it farther from the heatgun so that it heated a bit more slowly, but thoroughly, and then making the bend as soon as it felt "loose" in my fingers was the key.

Darlene


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> My first bends, it's a challenge but the results are worth it imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I had that new bending set though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you have a build log?


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Oh man that's amazing! Log?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hell yeah. That's absolutely incredible work. I'd also love a link to a build log if one exists!!!


Thanks!









The build log is linked in my sig.









|
V


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Do you have a build log?


No, unfortunately I dont. I had one of my last project. I dont mod anything in this rig so it's not that spectacular and ever since I had to give back the reflex camera I can only make mediocre pics at best. If you have any questions/criticism however feel free to PM me.


----------



## wermad

anyone know if ppcs.com has usps pickup on saturday? itching to get an order and shipped via priority mail


----------



## ozzy1925

this guy here looks like he used primochill rigid fitting but whats this part ?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> this guy here looks like he used primochill rigid fitting but whats this part ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bitspower Fillport:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html

Although it may be the longer Alphacool version since it's going all the way through a lightbox:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15160/ex-tub-1153/Alphacool_G14_Bulkhead_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Matte_Black.html?tl=g30c101s460


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> this guy here looks like he used primochill rigid fitting but whats this part ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower Fillport:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html
> 
> Although it may be the longer Alphacool version since it's going all the way through a lightbox:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15160/ex-tub-1153/Alphacool_G14_Bulkhead_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Matte_Black.html?tl=g30c101s460
Click to expand...

Its BP,Alphacool are too tight to give you an o-ring....


----------



## rickyman0319

how does the fill port / bleed port on ut60 series uses?

I have ut60 series rad on top of the case. if I pour coolant on the fill port , does it go around the loop to reservoir or go straight to reservoir?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Bitspower Fillport:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html
> 
> Although it may be the longer Alphacool version since it's going all the way through a lightbox:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15160/ex-tub-1153/Alphacool_G14_Bulkhead_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Matte_Black.html?tl=g30c101s460


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its BP,Alphacool are too tight to give you an o-ring....


thank you both +rep it really hides the drilled hole look


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> Hmm...what could possibly go wrong...


Nice, hopefully nothing bad happens. Should see my house. PC parts all over three rooms. Plus a homemade paintbooth eating up a good bit of my garage.

Dang, I did not know there was a way to dye fan blades. I been eyeing those eLoops of late, but that white will not match with the color theme of my rebuild. Time to go find out how to dye me some plastic.

O, forgot. Got my Corsair fan rings painted.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've worked with the McMaster Carr tubing on several projects, and it is more difficult to work with than E22 or some of the other options.
> 
> Even cutting, sanding, and polishing are more challenging.
> 
> Being that it's extruded, as opposed to cast, I believe is the reason.
> 
> It has a lower heat tolerance, and goes from "still too stiff to bend" to "too friggin' soft and noodley" REAL fast.
> 
> To get good bends with it, I found holding it farther from the heatgun so that it heated a bit more slowly, but thoroughly, and then making the bend as soon as it felt "loose" in my fingers was the key.
> 
> Darlene


I just set the heat gun to low, it ends up take longer to heat up, but get slightly better results. Once I get my technique down, I'm gonna try the primochill stuff. Based on the videos, it looks much easier to work with than the McMaster Carr tube I'm using.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, hopefully nothing bad happens. Should see my house. PC parts all over three rooms. Plus a homemade paintbooth eating up a good bit of my garage.
> 
> Dang, I did not know there was a way to dye fan blades. I been eyeing those eLoops of late, but that white will not match with the color theme of my rebuild. Time to go find out how to dye me some plastic.
> 
> O, forgot. Got my Corsair fan rings painted.


I hear vinyl dye works great. You can find it @ the autoparts store.


----------



## kpoeticg

White is by far the easiest color to dye. Get Prosperse Disperse Dye and add some of their Dye Carrier

https://www.prochemicalanddye.com/home.php?cat=401

Also, here's a tutorial by cpachris about dyeing sleeving and tubing. He dyes a white fan blade towards the end and it comes out killer

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The build log is linked in my sig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> |
> V


Those are build pics, but that doesn't link to a build log. Do you have a build log on here or any other forum? Or just the pic collection on here


----------



## 12Cores

Just built my own 8 core GCN based console, its not my best work but it will get the job done an xbox 360 replacement







.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> When I first got my rads, I boiled water in my kettle and use that to flush them out...and yes, wear gloves.
> Would it be safe to assume that it won't leech plasticizer if it's rated for use in drinking water? That's the same tubing (polyethelyne) we use on dye lasers in my lab because of its high chemical resistance to solvents like methanol.


it won't plasticize like regular tubing as it semi rigid like acrylic it's just has a little of flex to it...i use dye in it and it didn't stain at all...


----------



## IT Diva

Anyone bought a HL rad lately, or a silver D5 mod kit?

I have a Dimestech Easy-XL tech bench on the way, and the gear to set it all up just arrived Friday.

I got a pair of SR 1 420's and instead of the shiny gloss black finish I'm used to and expected, it's more like flat black auto primer.









I'm going to paint them white to match the bench anyway, so at least I won't have to look at it, but the cheap finish was a major let down.

I also got a pair of PWM D5's and a BP dual top to set up a clone of the pump setups in the stretch build to do some research on why the new Aquaero 6 is having issues with the PWM D5's, since I'd like to have the option of having one of the A6's be able to control the pumps.

I ordered the silver mod kits for them, figuring that silver was the most universal color for when I use them for something else down the road, . . . and crap, instead of the shiny smooth finish all my other mod kits have, this looks like cheap aluminum paint on a sandcasting.

Are all the silver ones like this now, how sucky that's gonna be . . .
















At least on a good note, the new EK metal DDC pump housings are pretty nice, and make a sweet trio of 35X's on my XSPC triple top for the tech bench onboard WC system.

Just seems like every time I order something, the latest version seems somehow cheesier than the lone before.

Darlene


----------



## Jimhans1

Both my new HL's are matte black, I'm actually glad, IMHO that glossy finish they did have sucked since most cases aren't gloss to begin with.

All my BP pump trim kits were gloss finish except for my black ones; again, I would prefer them to all be a flat finish, just matches better to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Anyone bought a HL rad lately, or a silver D5 mod kit?
> 
> I have a Dimestech Easy-XL tech bench on the way, and the gear to set it all up just arrived Friday.
> 
> I got a pair of SR 1 420's and instead of the shiny gloss black finish I'm used to and expected, it's more like flat black auto primer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to paint them white to match the bench anyway, so at least I won't have to look at it, but the cheap finish was a major let down.
> 
> I also got a pair of PWM D5's and a BP dual top to set up a clone of the pump setups in the stretch build to do some research on why the new Aquaero 6 is having issues with the PWM D5's, since I'd like to have the option of having one of the A6's be able to control the pumps.
> 
> I ordered the silver mod kits for them, figuring that silver was the most universal color for when I use them for something else down the road, . . . and crap, instead of the shiny smooth finish all my other mod kits have, this looks like cheap aluminum paint on a sandcasting.
> 
> Are all the silver ones like this now, how sucky that's gonna be . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least on a good note, the new EK metal DDC pump housings are pretty nice, and make a sweet trio of 35X's on my XSPC triple top for the tech bench onboard WC system.
> 
> Just seems like every time I order something, the latest version seems somehow cheesier than the lone before.
> 
> Darlene


You should of said,I had Dimastech,the paint finish on mine was fuggin awful and it wobbles like a jelly....let me know how yours came? The LD bench would of been a better purchase but you would of lost the 480s

The SR1's are matt,the GTX's are the shiny ones. Mine were like that,the GTX lites have the same finish as the Sr1 but less 'constructed' side panels.

If the mod kit isnt what you thought it might be then send it back,i wouldnt put up with that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Anyone bought a HL rad lately, or a silver D5 mod kit?
> 
> I have a Dimestech Easy-XL tech bench on the way, and the gear to set it all up just arrived Friday.
> 
> I got a pair of SR 1 420's and instead of the shiny gloss black finish I'm used to and expected, it's more like flat black auto primer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to paint them white to match the bench anyway, so at least I won't have to look at it, but the cheap finish was a major let down.
> 
> I also got a pair of PWM D5's and a BP dual top to set up a clone of the pump setups in the stretch build to do some research on why the new Aquaero 6 is having issues with the PWM D5's, since I'd like to have the option of having one of the A6's be able to control the pumps.
> 
> I ordered the silver mod kits for them, figuring that silver was the most universal color for when I use them for something else down the road, . . . and crap, instead of the shiny smooth finish all my other mod kits have, this looks like cheap aluminum paint on a sandcasting.
> 
> Are all the silver ones like this now, how sucky that's gonna be . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least on a good note, the new EK metal DDC pump housings are pretty nice, and make a sweet trio of 35X's on my XSPC triple top for the tech bench onboard WC system.
> 
> Just seems like every time I order something, the latest version seems somehow cheesier than the lone before.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> You should of said,I had Dimastech,the paint finish on mine was fuggin awful and it wobbles like a jelly....let me know how yours came? The LD bench would of been a better purchase but you would of lost the 480s
> 
> The SR1's are matt,the GTX's are the shiny ones. Mine were like that,the GTX lites have the same finish as the Sr1 but less 'constructed' side panels.
> 
> If the mod kit isnt what you thought it might be then send it back,i wouldnt put up with that.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up B,

I'll definitely let you know on the bench . . .

For the $$$ they charge, it better be top tier in all respects.

Apparently, they are made to order, or at least some models are, as I found out from PPCs as it had all the other stuff hung up on backorder until they came clean about why it didn't show "sold out", but wasn't there to ship with the rest of the order.

Good to know the SR 1's are matt black. I usually use the GT-X's and got used to the gloss finish, but decided to go SR-1 this time.

Mod kit is already installed and test running.

I'll be damn sure to ask about the finish next time I order a mod kit though, especially the silver.

The only one I have that's matt, is the black one on the D5S, but they tell you that one is matt black, so there's no surprises.

Back to work, prepping the mounting plates for the res and pump platforms for when the bench gets here . . . . .

Hopefully by next weekend . . .









Darlene


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up B,
> 
> I'll definitely let you know on the bench . . .
> 
> For the $$$ they charge, it better be top tier in all respects.
> 
> Apparently, they are made to order, or at least some models are, as I found out from PPCs as it had all the other stuff hung up on backorder until they came clean about why it didn't show "sold out", but wasn't there to ship with the rest of the order.
> 
> Good to know the SR 1's are matt black. I usually use the GT-X's and got used to the gloss finish, but decided to go SR-1 this time.
> 
> Mod kit is already installed and test running.
> 
> I'll be damn sure to ask about the finish next time I order a mod kit though, especially the silver.
> 
> The only one I have that's matt, is the black one on the D5S, but they tell you that one is matt black, so there's no surprises.
> 
> Back to work, prepping the mounting plates for the res and pump platforms for when the bench gets here . . . . .
> 
> Hopefully by next weekend . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Any chance of a comparison picture between the old and new finish?


----------



## MunneY

I figured I'd stop by and show off my first watercooling build. It's not much, but I'm happy with it!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MunneY*
> 
> I figured I'd stop by and show off my first watercooling build. It's not much, but I'm happy with it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well done man,after all you went thru i'm glad you finally finished it....Looks good....


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> I completed my acrylic tubing installation and picked up the glass top for my computer end table.
> 
> I have a *huge respect* for folks who have done builds with acrylic tubing. It's not as easy as I imagined.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amen sir! It's a little tricky at first. That pic reminds me of "Grandma's Boy" lol. Nice set up man!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> anyone know if ppcs.com has usps pickup on saturday? itching to get an order and shipped via priority mail


Yeah they do if you're fast enough, I had one box go out this way, FCPU does as well.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> White is by far the easiest color to dye. Get Prosperse Disperse Dye and add some of their Dye Carrier
> https://www.prochemicalanddye.com/home.php?cat=401
> 
> Also, here's a tutorial by cpachris about dyeing sleeving and tubing. He dyes a white fan blade towards the end and it comes out killer
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye


Ah, many thanks! Definitely going to buy some eLoops now. Hopefully I can find a green or red dye that can match the spray paint I am using. Will go great in a 915F once I can get my hands on one to mod down its length to my Haf X to use as a pedestal to house the TFC Admiral radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Anyone bought a HL rad lately, or a silver D5 mod kit?
> 
> I have a Dimestech Easy-XL tech bench on the way, and the gear to set it all up just arrived Friday.
> 
> I got a pair of SR 1 420's and instead of the shiny gloss black finish I'm used to and expected, it's more like flat black auto primer.


I bought a HL Black Ice Stealth 360 off FCPU this month. Most glossy black I ever seen on a computer part. Though, debating of now selling it, and seeing if I can't buy a XT45 to do P/P in the top of my Haf X. If a XT45 P/P can fit up there fine.


----------



## MunneY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Well done man,after all you went thru i'm glad you finally finished it....Looks good....


yeah I figured there was no quitting now! I had it all bought and everything so i just sucked it up and did it.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MunneY*
> 
> I figured I'd stop by and show off my first watercooling build. It's not much, but I'm happy with it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


great job...you did good job balancing the green theme..


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ah, many thanks! Definitely going to buy some eLoops now. Hopefully I can find a green or red dye that can match the spray paint I am using. Will go great in a 915F once I can get my hands on one to mod down its length to my Haf X to use as a pedestal to house the TFC Admiral radiator.


NP. If you're considering buying white eLoops and dyeing them red, you might as well just buy the Red Phobya eLoops. I even installed LED's in mine


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> NP. If you're considering buying white eLoops and dyeing them red, you might as well just buy the Red Phobya eLoops. I even installed LED's in mine


Translucent red? I think opaque might be more classy


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, it's all a matter of personal taste. I bought those Phobya eLoops specifically because of the translucent red blades. Can't install LED's in fans with opaque blades.

Then i'd have to think of a new name for my build. TRiCLOPS needs red led's in the front fans =)

I could see why some1 would want opaque too though. Just depends on the build and person


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> So! Here you got a better picture of what i MAY be doing later. How do you much space do I "need" between rad #1 and rad #2? Now its 30mm, should it be more, or can it be less without affecting performance noticeable?


bump


----------



## Pimphare

Anybody know if the threads on this is 1/4?

EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

I'd like to use something like this inside of my Primochill tube reservoir to eliminate the trickling effect from the return line.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Anybody know if the threads on this is 1/4?
> 
> EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312
> 
> I'd like to use something like this inside of my Primochill tube reservoir to eliminate the trickling effect from the return line.


Since I used mine in a Bitspower top and not an EK, I am going to say YES SIR!!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> So! Here you got a better picture of what i MAY be doing later. How do you much space do I "need" between rad #1 and rad #2? Now its 30mm, should it be more, or can it be less without affecting performance noticeable?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bump
Click to expand...

What's the thickness of rad 1 & rad 2? Rads really need airflow to cool the fins. It's generally not a good idea to block it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Anybody know if the threads on this is 1/4?
> 
> EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312
> 
> I'd like to use something like this inside of my Primochill tube reservoir to eliminate the trickling effect from the return line.


I think it is. Could always use a BP Aqua-Pipe too. http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=MkVBft7Y&searchspec=aqua-pipe&go.x=0&go.y=0

Or one of THESE + a Male to Male fitting screwed in on the inside of the cap


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What's the thickness of rad 1 & rad 2? Rads really need airflow to cool the fins. It's generally not a good idea to block it.


Its EK XTX's, so 64mm thick


----------



## stickg1

I was dicking around today because I didn't get my parts in but felt like playing anyway. I was surprised to see that my Swiftech MCR220-XP fits up front with P/P fans on my Arc Midi R2 (I did have to slide the HDD rack, but was told there wouldn't be enough room in this position). I like it, and to get a feel for how a 240mm XT45 would look up top, I threw my Watercool HTFS2 120mm up there (50mm thick) to see how it would look. I think I can live with that thickness and might go ahead with the XT45 up top.

I pulled the CPU block off to polish off some finger prints and check the TIM spread. Then decided what the heck and delidded my 3570K while I was at it. I hadn't planned on delidding this one, but I had the LM paste and a razorblade so I did it anyway. Glad I did, shaved a good 25C off my load temps. I think it's my 6th delidded chip, definitely the best overclocker of them all, and definitely the best results after delid of them all too.

It all looks like hell because I'm waiting on more tubing and had to use an odd assortment of fittings and short pieces of scrap tubing to make it all work. Also consequently my reservoir has a bit of a gangster lean. I'll sort all that out when the material arrives.

Oh yeah, and my PSU I use to fill my loop died inexplicably while I was half-way through the fill. An old Acer OEM pull. I couldn't find any other spares in the garage so I had to unplug everything from my Seasonic X650 and use that. I was annoyed to say the least. I think I'll get a decent 300w to replace the junker in my parent's PC and then keep their old one as my new filling unit.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Since I used mine in a Bitspower top and not an EK, I am going to say YES SIR!!!!


Alright sweet! Thanks!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think it is. Could always use a BP Aqua-Pipe too. http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=MkVBft7Y&searchspec=aqua-pipe&go.x=0&go.y=0
> 
> Or one of THESE + a Male to Male fitting screwed in on the inside of the cap


You've been quite helpful to me here on OCN. I'd like to keep my order with PPC though. Thank you!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think it is. Could always use a BP Aqua-Pipe too. http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=MkVBft7Y&searchspec=aqua-pipe&go.x=0&go.y=0
> 
> Or one of THESE + a Male to Male fitting screwed in on the inside of the cap
> 
> 
> 
> You've been quite helpful to me here on OCN. I'd like to keep my order with PPC though. Thank you!
Click to expand...

NP. I've gotten alot of help on OCN, so i try to pay it forward when i can =)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=aqua-pipe


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> NP. I've gotten alot of help on OCN, so i try to pay it forward when i can =)


This is why I love this forum


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Translucent red? I think opaque might be more classy


Yeah, I not really digging that red, want a solid color. Plus, still not decided on the bottom fans to be red or green yet. I would not even call that translucent considering how that looks compared to the piece of translucent red acrylic panel I got. And I ain't telling yet what part of my computer that going on.










Woooo, got my Titan no longer naked.


----------



## subsven

Quick question guys, how tight is too tight for the EK sli bridge connector? I've seen a lot of warnings on these forums and even on the instructions that came with the bridge that basically say over tightening this thing will cause your entire loop to melt down and your blocks to corrode and start flaking before kicking off the Armageddon (not being serious) so I made sure to be very gentle putting the thing together.

The problem I'm having is that when I removed the existing connectors, the screws were very loose, the one in the middle especially, but when I attached the block and started leak testing, I got seepage from the top port. I tightened the screws down a bit more, and it's been a week or two and everything seems fine. Is the over tightening you guys are always talking about the kind that actually cracks the acrylic? Or does it cause problems later one. I.e., if I got snug enough that the water stopped and nothing cracked, should I just be happy and go on with my life like nothing happened? Or should I tear it down and check the o rings and everything just to be sure?

*edit*
I guess I forgot to actually mention how I tightened the screws. I tried to be as gentle as possible, but I had to get a LOT tighter than it felt like the instructions said, and definitely tighter than the screws that I removed.


----------



## Pimphare

Hey fellas, I attempted to leak test my water loop last night and found a leak coming out of the bottom of the tube reservoir. I have a Primochill CTR reservoir that has the compression caps on both ends. So I unhooked the res from the loop and took the bottom compression cap off to have a look at things. I found cracks around the res most likely do to over tightening of the compression cap. This was not my doing. It was I how I received the reservoir.

Do you think that I could use some clear silicon caulking or anything to seal it up? I'm debating on trying some sort of sealant or just RMA it.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hey fellas, I attempted to leak test my water loop last night and found a leak coming out of the bottom of the tube reservoir. I have a Primochill CTR reservoir that has the compression caps on both ends. So I unhooked the res from the loop and took the bottom compression cap off to have a look at things. I found cracks around the res most likely do to over tightening of the compression cap. This was not my doing. It was I how I received the reservoir.
> 
> Do you think that I could use some clear silicon caulking or anything to seal it up? I'm debating on trying some sort of sealant or just RMA it.


Don't seal it, you'll never rest easy knowing you did. Just return it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hey fellas, I attempted to leak test my water loop last night and found a leak coming out of the bottom of the tube reservoir. I have a Primochill CTR reservoir that has the compression caps on both ends. So I unhooked the res from the loop and took the bottom compression cap off to have a look at things. I found cracks around the res most likely do to over tightening of the compression cap. This was not my doing. It was I how I received the reservoir.
> 
> Do you think that I could use some clear silicon caulking or anything to seal it up? I'm debating on trying some sort of sealant or just RMA it.


Silicone should do ok, but it would be a permanent cap after that I think. Once the stuff sets up, it's not gonna want to let go....

Have you tried any Teflon plumbing tape.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Silicone should do ok, but it would be a permanent cap after that I think. Once the stuff sets up, it's not gonna want to let go....
> 
> Have you tried any Teflon plumbing tape.


This res doesn't have threads on the ends. Not sure how that'd work otherwise. I'd be fine with it being permanent since I could always use the top cap for whatever.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> This res doesn't have threads on the ends. Not sure how that'd work otherwise. I'd be fine with it being permanent since I could always use the top cap for whatever.


Then silicone it is!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Then silicone it is!


LOL alright then. I was just curious if anyone had tried this before. I'll give it a shot before I go the RMA route. Thanks


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This is why I love this forum


Same here


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> LOL alright then. I was just curious if anyone had tried this before. I'll give it a shot before I go the RMA route. Thanks


If you are not going to RMA it, your best option, is to cut it above the stress fractures. I would use a hand saw, as a power tool may just crack or ship it again. I don't know how they call that a laser cut it looks like a chop saw has a go at them.

Just know, once you cut it, you ain't returning it later.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> If you are not going to RMA it, your best option, is to cut it above the stress fractures. I would use a hand saw, as a power tool may just crack or ship it again. I don't know how they call that a laser cut it looks like a chop saw has a go at them.
> 
> Just know, once you cut it, you ain't returning it later.


Yeah I know. I was also thinking of doing this. The only thing is that the ends are shaved slightly to a smaller diameter. Not sure if it's enough to make a difference.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've had nothing but great success using Bitspower's tube reservoirs. I also like EK's with the EK logo mounted inside.


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Those are build pics, but that doesn't link to a build log. Do you have a build log on here or any other forum? Or just the pic collection on here


Sorry about that. I thought that link went to the thread. My bad.

Here's a link to the build log.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1451892/build-log-the-lay-z-gamer


----------



## Toan

Can finally say I'm part of the club!!!








WOOT!!


----------



## s0up2up

Hey guys quick question, best thermal paste for GPU waterblocks (290X)? Or is the stuff that comes with EK's blocks (EK Ectotherm) good enough?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question guys, how tight is too tight for the EK sli bridge connector? I've seen a lot of warnings on these forums and even on the instructions that came with the bridge that basically say over tightening this thing will cause your entire loop to melt down and your blocks to corrode and start flaking before kicking off the Armageddon (not being serious) so I made sure to be very gentle putting the thing together.
> 
> The problem I'm having is that when I removed the existing connectors, the screws were very loose, the one in the middle especially, but when I attached the block and started leak testing, I got seepage from the top port. I tightened the screws down a bit more, and it's been a week or two and everything seems fine. Is the over tightening you guys are always talking about the kind that actually cracks the acrylic? Or does it cause problems later one. I.e., if I got snug enough that the water stopped and nothing cracked, should I just be happy and go on with my life like nothing happened? Or should I tear it down and check the o rings and everything just to be sure?
> 
> *edit*
> I guess I forgot to actually mention how I tightened the screws. I tried to be as gentle as possible, but I had to get a LOT tighter than it felt like the instructions said, and definitely tighter than the screws that I removed.


I think the general rule of thumb is a quarter turn past tight. (w/e that means) Iv'e use multiple of these connectors since they came out & iv'e never had an issue. I normally tighten them down, then use the allen rench as a mini-torque bar to ever so slightly firm them up. You will strip your threads before cracking the block since it's POM Acetal. If it's working with the adjustments you made, then it's probably good to go.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Hey guys quick question, best thermal paste for GPU waterblocks (290X)? Or is the stuff that comes with EK's blocks (EK Ectotherm) good enough?


i have 290 and use the stuff that come with the ek waterblock it's pretty good my card don't pass 45c while play bf4...i personally like mx4 though,


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Hey guys quick question, best thermal paste for GPU waterblocks (290X)? Or is the stuff that comes with EK's blocks (EK Ectotherm) good enough?


EK was sending Gelid GC Extreme on the second to last blocks I got, and it works great, the last set of GPU blocks I got had the "EK Ektotherm" and it looks just like the GC Extreme, so I believe they are the same. I think the GC extreme is one of the best out there personally. So I have no problem saying just use the stuff that the EK block came with.

Edit was spelling, sorry.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Hey guys quick question, best thermal paste for GPU waterblocks (290X)? Or is the stuff that comes with EK's blocks (EK Ectotherm) good enough?


http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/thermal-compound-charts/-6-GPU-Cooling,3366.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/thermal-compound-charts/-6-GPU-Cooling,3366.html


So yay, I was right.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wonder why they didn't test Indigo


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wonder why they didn't test Indigo


Because its a PITA?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

For those that have flipped their water blocked graphics cards upwards in a vertical position to show off the water channels through their plexiglass blocks, what 16X riser did you use? I'm trying to find one that's at least 12 inches in length, and reliable.

This is what I'm trying to accomplish:


----------



## Archea47

Well consider me among the throng



240mm UT60 and a 280mm ST30 in a corsair 400r

EK Supremacy CPU block with Koolance VRM & NB blocks

Better pictures and cleaned up wiring after I enjoy this for an evening and possibly afternoon

*Question:*
How do you control the speed of Sycthe Gentle Typhoons (3000RPM)? They came with a 4-pin molex + 3pin fan (with 1 wire) cable but with the fan cable hooked up to the fan controller it's still constantly at full speed. Controller works with the other fans fine


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Well consider me among the throng
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 240mm UT60 and a 280mm ST30 in a corsair 400r
> 
> EK Supremacy CPU block with Koolance VRM & NB blocks
> 
> Better pictures and cleaned up wiring after I enjoy this for an evening and possibly afternoon
> 
> *Question:*
> How do you control the speed of Sycthe Gentle Typhoons (3000RPM)? They came with a 4-pin molex + 3pin fan (with 1 wire) cable but with the fan cable hooked up to the fan controller it's still constantly at full speed. Controller works with the other fans fine


That single cable attached to the 3-pin fan connector is ONLY an RPM signal wire to send RPM speed to motherboard. The 4-pin molex is where the power is coming from, so if you don't have an adapter from IT going to the fan controller, the fan(s) will be at full speed.

Edit: All that radiator capacity and still running air-cooled GPU's???


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> For those that have flipped their water blocked graphics cards upwards in a vertical position to show off the water channels through their plexiglass blocks, what 16X riser did you use? I'm trying to find one that's at least 12 inches in length, and reliable.
> 
> This is what I'm trying to accomplish:


ebay, but get a powered one.


going to use one of these this time
PCI-E PCI Express x16 to x16 90 Degree Right Angle Riser Card For 1U 2U PC


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because its a PITA?


Well so is testing i'd imagine


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> For those that have flipped their water blocked graphics cards upwards in a vertical position to show off the water channels through their plexiglass blocks, what 16X riser did you use? I'm trying to find one that's at least 12 inches in length, and reliable.
> 
> This is what I'm trying to accomplish:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Usually the risers are just the length or slightly over the length of the "slot" that they are rising from, so say its an x16 slot riser, the whole card/cable would be about the same length as that x16 slot. I have never seen an x16 riser anywhere near 12" long personally.




See, same length as the parent slot really.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> ebay, but get a powered one.
> 
> 
> going to use one of these this time
> PCI-E PCI Express x16 to x16 90 Degree Right Angle Riser Card For 1U 2U PC










'd by the man I was thinking of for this


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> For those that have flipped their water blocked graphics cards upwards in a vertical position to show off the water channels through their plexiglass blocks, what 16X riser did you use? I'm trying to find one that's at least 12 inches in length, and reliable.
> 
> This is what I'm trying to accomplish:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Try Rackmount.net.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Anyone bought a HL rad lately, or a silver D5 mod kit?
> 
> I have a Dimestech Easy-XL tech bench on the way, and the gear to set it all up just arrived Friday.
> 
> I got a pair of SR 1 420's and instead of the shiny gloss black finish I'm used to and expected, it's more like flat black auto primer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to paint them white to match the bench anyway, so at least I won't have to look at it, but the cheap finish was a major let down.
> 
> I also got a pair of PWM D5's and a BP dual top to set up a clone of the pump setups in the stretch build to do some research on why the new Aquaero 6 is having issues with the PWM D5's, since I'd like to have the option of having one of the A6's be able to control the pumps.
> 
> *I ordered the silver mod kits for them, figuring that silver was the most universal color for when I use them for something else down the road, . . . and crap, instead of the shiny smooth finish all my other mod kits have, this looks like cheap aluminum paint on a sandcasting.*
> 
> Are all the silver ones like this now, how sucky that's gonna be . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least on a good note, the new EK metal DDC pump housings are pretty nice, and make a sweet trio of 35X's on my XSPC triple top for the tech bench onboard WC system.
> 
> Just seems like every time I order something, the latest version seems somehow cheesier than the lone before.
> 
> Darlene


Bitspower now makes only







the matte version (BP-D5MA*V2*-SL2) the shiny is BP-D5MA-SL


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The 4-pin molex is where the power is coming from, so if you don't have an adapter from IT going to the fan controller, the fan(s) will be at full speed.
> 
> Edit: All that radiator capacity and still running air-cooled GPU's???


Thanks for the info









Unfortunately there isn't and likely wont be a full block for the Gigabyte R9 280x (Rev2 in this case) cards. I would if I could


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well consider me among the throng
> 
> 
> 
> 240mm UT60 and a 280mm ST30 in a corsair 400r
> 
> EK Supremacy CPU block with Koolance VRM & NB blocks
> 
> 
> 
> Better pictures and cleaned up wiring after I enjoy this for an evening and possibly afternoon
> 
> *Question:*
> How do you control the speed of Sycthe Gentle Typhoons (3000RPM)? They came with a 4-pin molex + 3pin fan (with 1 wire) cable but with the fan cable hooked up to the fan controller it's still constantly at full speed. Controller works with the other fans fine


The one wire running to your fan controller is an rpm wire. You have two options with this fan, assuming your controller has enough juice to power it:

Option 1) remove molex and make a standard 3pin fan cable, which plugs into your controller.

Option 2) Gently lift off the bottom part of the sticker on the back where the wires go into the fan housing. Underneath there is a fourth solder pad - solder a wire to this and connect it to the 4th pin of a 4-pin fan connector to get pwm control of the fan. The fan can then be connected to a PWM motherboard header for speed control while still drawing power from the psu. Will edit this post with links to sources when I'm not on my phone.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Anyone bought a HL rad lately, or a silver D5 mod kit?
> 
> I have a Dimestech Easy-XL tech bench on the way, and the gear to set it all up just arrived Friday.
> 
> I got a pair of SR 1 420's and instead of the shiny gloss black finish I'm used to and expected, it's more like flat black auto primer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I got a HWLabs Black Ice SR1 420mm about 9 months ago and it came with like a matte black finish, paint quality is pretty good to be honest, best I've seen in my hands compared to other radiators.

Definitely not glossy black.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wonder why they didn't test Indigo


=( ohhh indigo xtreme. I easily wasted 100$ on that hot (works well)garbage. I still have 4 lga115x pads sitting around here somewhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately there isn't and likely wont be a full block for the Gigabyte R9 280x (Rev2 in this case) cards. I would if I could


is the power section different from the 7970?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I would like to reiterate how well soaking in Pine Sol + distilled overnight can remove greenish corrosion spots (from blocks or rads). Thanks again to Swiftech support for the suggestion.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Usually the risers are just the length or slightly over the length of the "slot" that they are rising from, so say its an x16 slot riser, the whole card/cable would be about the same length as that x16 slot. I have never seen an x16 riser anywhere near 12" long personally.
> 
> 
> 
> See, same length as the parent slot really.


What I mean by "12 inch length" is the cable, so that I can mount the video card on a platform to rest on top of my midplate, rather than have the video card hover above the midplate... Just the weight alone from the copper block and acrylic would probably snap that one. The idea is to have it in that upright position, but also have it stand 4-6" in front of the motherboard, and slightly lower, whereby it would cover all PCI-e slots.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I would like to reiterate how well soaking in Pine Sol + distilled overnight can remove greenish corrosion spots (from blocks or rads). Thanks again to Swiftech support for the suggestion.


What ratio of Pine Sol to Distilled?









Personally I've never cleaned my loops as they never lasted longer than 4-6 months without changing the coolant and tubing, but might as well clean it tomorrow when the 2nd GPU waterblock arrives.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> What I mean by "12 inch length" is the cable, so that I can mount the video card on a platform to rest on top of my midplate, rather than have the video card hover above the midplate... Just the weight alone from the copper block and acrylic would probably snap that one. The idea is to have it in that upright position, but also have it stand 4-6" in front of the motherboard, and slightly lower, whereby it would cover all PCI-e slots.


Lol, going by the pic you posted, I understood what you were trying to do, and I assumed you would be hard mounting the card, as the weight of even the card by itself wouldn't do well for the riser. I just didn't understand that the card would be that far from the parent slot.

Here is what I found on 12" cabled PCIe riser.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BD70XOC



Maybe this will work.......


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> =( ohhh indigo xtreme. I easily wasted 100$ on that hot (works well)garbage. I still have 4 lga115x pads sitting around here somewhere.


Really ? I thought it was supposed to have the best thermal transfer for IHS => Block. That's why i was hoping it'd be in the test results

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I would like to reiterate how well soaking in Pine Sol + distilled overnight can remove greenish corrosion spots (from blocks or rads). Thanks again to Swiftech support for the suggestion.


Wow, that's a great tip. Thanx =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, going by the pic you posted, I understood what you were trying to do, and I assumed you would be hard mounting the card, as the weight of even the card by itself wouldn't do well for the riser. I just didn't understand that the card would be that far from the parent slot.
> 
> Here is what I found on 12" cabled PCIe riser.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BD70XOC
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe this will work.......


Yeah 12" does seem to be far from the slot. I've never used a riser or anything, but from issue's i've seen people have, you'll probly wanna spend the money for a shielded riser. I think 3M makes them.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow, that's a great tip. Thanx =)
> 
> Yeah 12" does seem to be far from the slot. I've never used a riser or anything, but from issue's i've seen people have, you'll probly wanna spend the money for a shielded riser. I think 3M makes them.


The only thing about it that's hot garbage is the installation. It's a major PITA to get it perfect. Though, you don't really need 100% full coverage. You have to lay your computer on it's side. Turn your pumps off, let the cpu get to 90C then slowly screw the block down.


----------



## kpoeticg

Ahhhhh you were referring to the PITA part of it.

Is the thermal benefits worth the trouble? I don't remember what type of percent of a temp drop is normal.


----------



## THC Butterz

I am gearing up for my next waterbuild, because this thread gives me the bug... Any watercooled builds in a phantech entho primo yet? I think thats going to be the case, but I want to see a dicent build in it before i jump.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I am gearing up for my next waterbuild, because this thread gives me the bug... Any watercooled builds in a phantech entho primo yet? I think thats going to be the case, but I want to see a dicent build in it before i jump.


I'd say do a search on the forum homepage for enthoo prime, I've heard people talking about the case, so I assume there's at least a build or two here somewhere.


----------



## kpoeticg

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club


----------



## THC Butterz

thanks guys, that helps


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 1. Look further along..not that it matters,the design spec for the rads is the same other than depth.
> 
> 2. That video is over 2 years old,so the 580 was very much in date methinks...a much hotter card too than current cards.


My only point being is that all the data that said it was 6 ports is OLD








..... My guess is they making them with 7 ports now.,...tho I doubt we'll ever see it on the ST30 .... too thin.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> =( ohhh indigo xtreme. I easily wasted 100$ on that hot (works well)garbage. I still have 4 lga115x pads sitting around here somewhere.
> is the power section different from the 7970?


Was gonna install the indigo Xtreme, but the instllation instructions scared me. PLus I might swap my 4930K for a new one, and didnt wanna waste any of it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 1. Look further along..not that it matters,the design spec for the rads is the same other than depth.
> 
> 2. That video is over 2 years old,so the 580 was very much in date methinks...a much hotter card too than current cards.
> 
> 
> 
> My only point being is that all the data that said it was 6 ports is OLD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... My guess is they making them with 7 ports now.,...tho I doubt we'll ever see it on the ST30 .... too thin.
Click to expand...

The ST 30 doesnt have the end ports either.

I think you have it back to front,the older rads have the bleed ports,the newer ones dont,all the first unboxings have the ports while its only recently where ports have been reported as not being there.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What ratio of Pine Sol to Distilled?


He actually did not say and I've just been winging it. Probably the strongest I've done is 1/3 to 2/3 water. I was skeptical of this solution (no pun!) at first even if my Apogee HD block had not been as caked with whitesish-green corrosion as it was but lo and behold. The cloudy white liquid had a noticeable green tint in the morning and a toothbrush took the rest of it right off.

Still do not know exactly what caused it so bad exactly but will admit to foolishy not doing any maintenance on my prior loop for like 9 months and only had a kill coil in there. Cause mini-itx more than anything. Dumped that platform for many reason, that being one. Got an eye out for it now; not returned as yet and going to use something for anti-corrosion as well.

Edit: Careful it clouded and made rough the cheap plastic measuring cup I had it in. Not for reservoirs and such I'd say.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> He actually did not say and I've just been winging it. Probably the strongest I've done is 1/3 to 2/3 water. I was skeptical of this solution (no pun!) at first even if my Apogee HD block had not been as caked with whitesish-green corrosion as it was but lo and behold. The cloudy white liquid had a noticeable green tint in the morning and a toothbrush took the rest of it right off.
> 
> Still do not know exactly what caused it so bad exactly but will admit to foolishy not doing any maintenance on my prior loop for like 9 months and only had a kill coil in there. Cause mini-itx more than anything. Dumped that platform for many reason, that being one. Got an eye out for it now; not returned as yet and going to use something for anti-corrosion as well.
> 
> Edit: Careful it clouded and made rough the cheap plastic measuring cup I had it in. Not for reservoirs and such I'd say.


Plexi/Acrylic (Like reservoirs) can be easily damaged with alcohol, I'm guessing Pine Sol has alcohol.









Good to know.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yep; thought about that when I poured it in there but no biggie. Gonna need to soak my rad longer than I did my block last month even though it's not nearly as corroded as I can't scrub it.


----------



## MNModder

I have a question I just took apart my cup block and saw this and wasn't sure if it's normal or if I need to replace the block or if there is any thing to be worry about
The nickel plating seems to have worn off Maybe not sure?
What are your guys thoughts
Thanks in advanced for your input


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> I have a question I just took apart my cup block and saw this and wasn't sure if it's normal or if I need to replace the block or if there is any thing to be concerned about
> 
> 20140119_184855.jpg 2755k .jpg file
> 
> The nickel plating seems to have worn off Maybe not sure?
> What are your guys thoughts
> Thanks in advanced for your input


When you upload pics, don't upload them as files. There's an icon at the top of the text box that looks like a portrait of like mountains with the sun over em. Click that icon and upload em like that


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I'm not one for downloading sketchy files.

I'm bored with my setup and I only finished it about a week ago. Is there some sort of Watercooling Addicts support group? I think I have a problem. :/


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I'm not one for downloading sketchy files.
> 
> I'm bored with my setup and I only finished it about a week ago. Is there some sort of Watercooling Addicts support group? I think I have a problem. :/


I feel you on that man. I'm not even finished my build and I've already planned out 4 new possible builds.


----------



## MNModder

Ok thanks sorry fist time uploading a photo from my phone I removed it and here's the photo


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question about reservoirs and their ports. If a tube res has 3 ports, 2 at the bottom and 1 at the top. Can I use one of the bottom ports to feed the pump the other bottom port as the return from the loop, and the top as the fill bleed?

I ask because im not sure if the loop return into the reservoir has to go into the top or not.

Thanks


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question about reservoirs and their ports. If a tube res has 3 ports, 2 at the bottom and 1 at the top. Can I use one of the bottom ports to feed the pump the other bottom port as the return from the loop, and the top as the fill bleed?
> 
> I ask because im not sure if the loop return into the reservoir has to go into the top or not.
> 
> Thanks


That'll work just fine. I had my old setup configured like that


----------



## iamkraine

This mayhem pastel ice white has a very distinct yellowish tint. It doesn't look as white a I thought it would. Anyone have experience with it?
This is a picture of it next to noise blocker eloops.


----------



## MNModder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> 
> Ok thanks sorry fist time uploading a photo from my phone I removed it and here's the photo


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> I have a question I just took apart my cup block and saw this and wasn't sure if it's normal or if I need to replace the block or if there is any thing to be worry about
> The nickel plating seems to have worn off Maybe not sure?
> What are your guys thoughts
> Thanks in advanced for your input


Anybody not trying to be annoying just trying to get my system back together tonight if I can
Thank you


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Anyone bought a HL rad lately, or a silver D5 mod kit?
> 
> I have a Dimestech Easy-XL tech bench on the way, and the gear to set it all up just arrived Friday.
> 
> I got a pair of SR 1 420's and instead of the shiny gloss black finish I'm used to and expected, it's more like flat black auto primer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to paint them white to match the bench anyway, so at least I won't have to look at it, but the cheap finish was a major let down.
> 
> I also got a pair of PWM D5's and a BP dual top to set up a clone of the pump setups in the stretch build to do some research on why the new Aquaero 6 is having issues with the PWM D5's, since I'd like to have the option of having one of the A6's be able to control the pumps.
> 
> I ordered the silver mod kits for them, figuring that silver was the most universal color for when I use them for something else down the road, . . . and crap, instead of the shiny smooth finish all my other mod kits have, this looks like cheap aluminum paint on a sandcasting.
> 
> Are all the silver ones like this now, how sucky that's gonna be . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least on a good note, the new EK metal DDC pump housings are pretty nice, and make a sweet trio of 35X's on my XSPC triple top for the tech bench onboard WC system.
> 
> Just seems like every time I order something, the latest version seems somehow cheesier than the lone before.
> 
> Darlene


I bought both a GTX 560 and a GTX 240 in July 2012 and both of them are glossy and flawless. HL makes the best radiators IMO, though I've never personally used anything else so what do I know?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The rule of thumb works just fine,you are massively over estimating how much rad is actually required,GPU's for example do not input as much heat as you think in to a loop.......
> 
> You can work out hypothetical numbers but they rarely paint the whole picture....so,in short,it doesnt 'fall apart' at all.


Rule of thumbs by definition are by no means to be relied on as accurate. In it's first historical usage it was equated to a guess

You're going to have to explain to me:

...... how the same rule applies to a 100 watt card and a 350 watt card ....a 3.5 to one ratio
.......how the same rule applies at 2200 rpm when a Monsta provided 122 watts of cooling still works the same at 1000 rpm and 50 watts .... a 2.44 ratio.
.......how the same rule applies with single fan versus push / pull when 10- 30% differences have been measured in the lab.

Should we size our PSU the same way ? Same size PSU for two 100 watts GFX cards as two 350 watt GFX cards ? well since every watt of electricity is converted to heat why not ?

I find Martins testing methods to be sound and extremely accurate. The wattage can very easily be confirmed simply by hooking up a kil-o-watt meter. *Energy can not be created or destroyed*. I calculate 792.... I'm drawing close to that from the wall.... where is the energy going ? It all goes to heat with the small exception of ya pump which has converted about 10% of its electrical energy to kinetic energy. If you taking 750 watts from the wall, it is inarguable that you are producing a number of watts of heat that is very close to that.

http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec2001/1009665868.Cs.r.html
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=A0oG7t5YT9xSSy0A1CBXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEzMjNhb2RtBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkA1NNRTMyMF8x?qid=20080721181547AANSaP8

What you are failing to realize is what I thought I carefully explained..... is that the radiator is only intended to pick up a portion of the load.....the block itself is a huge radiator .... the backplate is a radiator. But unless we suspend the laws of energy and thermodynamics, *every watt in must equal every watt out*. A card that pulls 300 watts of electricity produces 300 watts of heat. Your radiator will, and is only expected to handle a percentage of that of that.....the wires give off heat, the component surfaces gives off heat the tubing gives off heat, the reservoir gives off heat. Your radiator just is the most efficient at it. Even your pump will convert as much as 90% of the energy it consumes as heat .... the remaining being converted into kinetic energy.

When we move from guessing to science, first ya calculate the load, then we estimate the % of that load that we expect to be handled by the rads. No one ever suggested that a 350 watt card requires 350 watts of rad cooling. The GFX card has a HUGE water block which radiates heat direct to air, it has a HUGE backplate which radiates heat direct to air. A CPU block has no similarity to that.

The best analogy I can come up with is sizing a AC system for a house by 12000 BTU of the 1st room and 600 for each room thereafter ..... and yet none of these things matter.

Sun exposure or wooded ?
Florida or Canada ?
Size of rooms .... 120 sf bedrooms or 600 sf ?
No insulation heavy insulation few windows, lotta windows
Number of floors ?

The RoT (Rule of Thumb) will work in every instance in that the houses will be cooler..... some will be over sized and inefficient, some will be drastically undersized

As for ya GFX cards and the *whopping 35C temp rise* (at least I am assuming those are card temps, not Delta T) .... see next section

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The main point of starting was to dispel the myth that massive amount of rad surface area is required for _*adequate*_ components cooling.
> Here are some of the questions he poses and hopes to test clarify is his OP


The key words here are "massive" and "adequate" .... what is massive or adequate for one is inadequate for another. Which category from below is adequate ?

1. Delta T = 5°C - Extreme system
2. Delta T = 10°C - High-end system
3. Delta T = 20°C - Mid-range system
4. Delta T = 30°C - Entry-level system

Thermodynamics is a science and its laws are inviolate. When cooling electronics, you need to set a goal. A Category 3 system will require half the rad area as a Category 2 system. Category 4 system will require 1/3 the rad area as a Category 2 system ..... all of them will "work" ..... but which one does the "rule apply to ? If you are aiming for category 2 and ya wind up with a 4, in my book that is a FAIL. Use "the rule" w/ multiple hi end GFX card systems and it will fail..... and again, not saying your cards will melt, I'm saying fail to maintain a delta T you targeted.

The problem with the rule of thumb is it bounces you from from Category 2 to 4 ....it's all over the place. For the "rule of thumb" to work, it should consistently give put you in the same category and it doesn't cause it's not based upon science and ignores that twice as much heat requires twice as much cooling. Again, we aren't talking about melting here, we are talking about meeting design goals.... if we talking about not melting then 0 rads accomplish that. All martins data and my representations of it are based upon meeting category 2 goals .

Perhaps it's better said this way ..... if ya goal is to be anywhere between a Delta T of 5C and a Delta T of 35C, the "rule" works; if ya goal is to hit any ONE of those categories specifically, it's a massive fail.

What category does the "rule of thumb" put you in ?

-Well in a CPU only loop, you produce 140 watts of heat .... a UT60-240 at 1250 rpm gives ya 125 watts or 90% of the load ..... and yest it still doesn't manage to get ya OC'd Haswell down below 75C ???? Why is that ? Small surface area, poor heat transfer off the core to the water Block mostly due to poor HS. But clearly a Category 1 or 2 solution.

-Now we get to where the rule fails. I couldn't ask for a better example of this than the test data B Negative provided. We see a huge 35C temp rise here ! What we do see from all the system owners here is that GPU temps don't have the typical 45C spread to coolant temps we see with GPUs .... most often < 10C ..... Large surface area, excellent heat transfer from the GPU to water block due to direct contact. So our CPU loop was at worse a category 2, now this GPU one here that is Category 4 ..... that's why the rule falls apart.

Use the rule of thumb on a CPU loop, ya looking at Category 2
Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 1 Hi End GPU loop, ya looking somewhere between a category 2 and 3
Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 2 Hi End 2 GPU loop, ya looking at category 3
Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 3 or 4 cards GPU loop, ya looking at Category 4

That's "not working" ..... it's certainly not worth the $1000 investment in water cooling that a person needs to make when doing a loop with 2 or more cards to wind up with temps just a bit better than air.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Not sure I understand what you mean. If a bubble is caught in the bottom fo the res, it might get sucked up? Isn't that true regardless of how short or long I make the dip tubes, it might suck an errant bubble in? I would figure that the outlet tube being longer would reduce the chance of that (or inlet tube too, but i'm not really worried about air possible going to res, it'll probably get shot back into the res with the flow anyways).
> 
> On a related note, can the EK Internal tubes be used with G1/4" fittings, like in other reservoirs? I'd like to use clear tubing for the dip tubes, and if I use a barb + vinyl tubing it might not fit on the inside of the res due to the fitting spacing actually.
> 
> My 7950 at 1.25v, +50% power limit fix, and a high overclock, on a 120mm CLC h60 2013 with no fans on it hits a max of 35C in a warm room during OCCT testing (ie about as hot as you get, way hotter then heaven, gaming, etc).
> 
> I assume that a 200w GPU like the 7950 runs 'cooler' then a 200w i7 Haswell because the cpu is smaller in die size, and/or they may not be optimally dispersing heat (like the delid issue with ivy/haswell, onboard vrm, etc).


Bubbles come down the tube, get released, their velocity will have then travel down a bit and their buyoancy causes them to go up ..... discharge the bubble at a point close to the suction tube and they can get sucked in before they have a chance to rise. The EK tubes are internal ..... they have different threads than G-1/4 fittings ..... the holes in the single port top are G-1/4 ..... can't bleed that tho, so ya get a mukti-port top. The multi-port is a single hole with different threads on each end .... top (external) is G-1/4, bottom (internal) 12/16 IIRC.

Not sure whay yta worried about the indentation..... they thot flush looked betetr so they made thicker top with indents.

200 watts is 200 watts no mater how ya slice it.....however GPU transfer due to the large die size and direct contact will lower temps much more than is possible on CPU die.

Guru3D sets the 7950s power consumption at 138 watts .... adding 25% for an OC would put it at 172 watts
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/his_radeon_hd_7950_review,8.html

Your 172 watts is a prefect example of the "science" working....... 2000 rpm fans on a 120 rad....chart says ya should get about 95 watts from the rad alone....or about 55% of the calculated load..... with a large shroud surface area to help, certainly is in line with the suggested 60% figure we have been using. Double that with a 290x overclocked at 350 watts ..... with double the heat, ya gotta either 1) double the rads or 2) double the Delta T..... If ya on a tight budget, option 2 is it....if not, ya need double the rad....no other way around it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> This is why I dislike that "rule of thumb" for radiators. ......So I think there's a better equation to be found for the "rule of thumb". There seems to be diminishing returns when adding more rads, and I think the heat capacity of the water itself is underestimated, and die size is ignored. No account is made of the heat transfer equation we might remember from high school physics, i.e. the bigger the delta, the more heat is transferred, but the bigger the surface area the more heat is transferred.


Agreed !

I covered those points above ...... Fan speed can NOT be ignored ..... surface area of die can NOT be ignored..... I think you and I discussed this in another thread..... I been using 60% of the load as a starting point ..... I had suggested that perhaps CPU should be 80% (crappy die heat transfer, small die) and GPUs 50% (large die, direct contact, good heat transfer).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Kind of like when I had 3x 120mm rads and 1x 240mm. I pulled two of the 120's and planned on replacing them with a single 240mm rad. But then I saw that after pulling those two rads my temps stayed pretty much the exact same. So yeah, I think I'm good with 360mm of rad space.
> 
> However I just run a 3570K @ 4.7GHz and a R9 290 @ 1130MHz so according to the "rule of thumb" formula, 360mm is what I should have aimed for anyway.


The RoT works here due to the oversize on the CPU and undersize on the rad .... let's look using the scientific method.

135 watts + 272 watts (254 + 7% for OC) = 407 watts
407 watts x 60% = 244 watts

XT45-360 w/ 3 fans @ 1800 rpm = 257 watts according to martins test
Very good

Now lets add 2 more GPUs .... that would be your 240 + 360 according to the RoT

135 watts + 3 x 272 watts = 951 watts
389 watts x 60% = 571 watts

XT45-360 + XT45-240 w/ 3 fans @ 1800 rpm = 428 watts according to martins test
Bit short

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Just saw that conversation about rad space and what's really necessary and wondered how big temp increase I might face if I add another 670 in the loop?
> I have two 280 rads (30mm & 45mm) and max temps are 60°C on cpu and 44 on gpu.


What speed fans, .... how many 670s ya have now ? What kinda OC ?

A 670 produces 149 watts
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_670_review,8.html

149 + 20% for OC = 178 watts

178 x 60% = 107 watts

A ST30 @ 1800 rpm will give ya 110 watts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> JackNaylorPE created a real useful thread on the topic of calculating how much heat components will generate. http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator


Yes, we have a lotta reputable folks on board working to improve it.....Martin has popped in and had good things to so so we're encouraged by that.... ModZoo and others have endorsed too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If only it was accurate with RL findings......


It's based on RL findings and actual laboratory test data. Martin seems to think it's pretty good, and I can't think of anyone more knowledgeable on the subject,..... ya have yet to show an example of how it's wrong ..... It does work in many instances but it way, way off target since the introduction of 250 watt cards.
Quote:


> rule of thumb
> n.noun
> A useful principle having wide application but *not intended to be strictly accurate or reliable in every situation*.


You said cards don't matter, fans don't matter, fan speed don't matter ..... Show us how the RoT works on a system with four 290x (Sky's 780s pull 400 watts each) and 4960 all at max OCs and *maintaining a Delta T of 10C.*

286 watts + 25% for OC x 4 = 1144 watts (RoT = 4 x 120mm)
35x2 Pump = 40 watts of heat
CPU = 236 watts (RoT = 2 x 120mm)

So we have 1420 watts of heat being generated and you are gonna cool that to a Delta T of 10C with two XT45-360s which provide 188 watts each.....good luck with that 26%

This whole "scientific" approach is based upon one stated fact, one which you seem to not want to recognize. The whole method is based upon the goal of attaining a Delta T of 10C and it has proven very accurate in doing so. Does everyone need 10C ? No..... so if they are happy with 20C, use the tool and divide by 2 ....happy with 30C, use the tool and divide by 3 ....There is absolutely no scenario under which your answer from the RoT will not fit the 10C, 20C or 30C criteria. The reverse however is not true. ....sometimes the RoT puts ya in 10C territory sometimes at 20C sometimes at 30C which is why I and many others find it inadequate.

When you took exception to my post about the UT60 and XT45 having 7 ports, I would not have posted this without verifying it, yes "back in the day: they might have had 6 but the ones shipping now have 7 as is shown in the pictures I provided. When you took exception to my post that the 35x2 could pull 50+ watts , I would not have posted this without verifying it, the data came direct from martins site. Here again this is all data verified by laboratory testing on martins site.

Typical Wattages (From Martins Site)
Quote:


> CPU Processor: 60-150W
> Video Card
> Single GPU (low-end): 100W
> Single GPU (mid-range): 150-250W
> Single GPU (high-end): 200-350W
> Motherboard
> Chipset: 10-30W
> Voltage Regulators: 5-20W
> Memory: 2-5W per stick
> Hard Drive (regular or SSD): 10-30W


I'd welcome specific example with numbers and reasoning so we could improve the tool and make it better but "RoT is good enough" and "not RL" don't go a long way without some hard data.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, i'm definitely not educated enough to comment on the accuracy. He seems to know his ish tho


It's not my data ..... All I did was compile it on a single page and perhaps make it a little less intimidating to the casual WC'er..... everything there came from

http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/
http://martinsliquidlab.org/

To most people here on OCN Martins site is the defacto "bible" of water cooling. For many it can be a bit "over their head" but we design power systems and water cooling is an integral part of that..... gives me just enough understanding to see what's science and what's snake oil and when something goes over my head, I can always ask one of the my MEP (mech-elect-plumb) employees to explain it to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The numbers are good but he is labouring under poor data,PSU calc are notorious for overestimating draw,therefore the heat that needs dissipating.


You make a lotta assumptions







.... but wrong, .... again not true across the board ..... Everything has been verified "every way from Sunday "

1. Using ONLY the CPU overclock subsection, not the entire PSU calculator . Seems to be what every web site I visit says, so I consider that good verification.... are you saying 4.8 Ghz CPUs @ 1.4 volts do not draw 135-145 watts ?

2. GPU numbers of direct power consumption data come from Guru3D Metered Power Measurements. No overestimation, measured with a meter
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_780_review,9.html
Quote:


> We have a device constantly monitoring the power draw from the PC. We simply stress the GPU, not the processor. The before and after wattage will tell us roughly how much power a graphics card is consuming under load.


3. Pump Data taken from Martins own testing that's where I got the 35x2 numbers you took exception to (see also his GPU / CPU numbers above)

4. I verified the data using "kil-o-watt:....landed right on the money...... I hit 765 watts draw for a 792 watt calculated load..... I'd say anything under 10% is pretty darn good but of course when I was testing everything wasn't at full load.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Good to know. Thanx +1
> 
> YESSSS!!!!!
> Static Pressure is very important with heatsinks and radiators.
> The way you're looking at it is like "Why even buy fans for it at all?"


B Neg's "assumption" is off base .... all data has been verified by multiple sources *and* power meter measurements

The SP thing is less true now than it was, but still important.... My fans mostly run at 450 rpm and peak at 850 pm..... ya know those less than paper thin little "sign here" Post-It's that ya accountant uses when he sends ya the tax returns .... I have them attached to the other side from the fans on my rads .... they barely move and on;y at 1200 rpm. But now ya got me interested..... so ran a test

Turned my fans down to 500 rpm..... ran 20 minutes (NOTE Fan filters out)

Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 38.9 / 37.6
Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 37.6 / 36.3
GPUs at 47C / CPU at 49C

Turned Fans off ....waited 10 minutes

Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 49.6 / 49.1
Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 49.2 / 48.6
GPUs at 57C / CPU at 47C

Turned Fans on ....waited 10 minutes, let fan curve control and peaked at 850 rpm

Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 36.8 / 35.3
Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 35.6 / 34.1
GPUs at 45C / CPU at 40C

With fans at full blast @ 1200 rpm

Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 33.0 / 31.7
Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 31.8 / 30.5
GPUs at 39C / CPU at 34C
Delta T is 8.4 C (12.2C when put filters back in)

What I am getting at....these fans are not producing a lotta SP at 500 and 850 rpm ..... so if ya thinking or monitoring temps at some point in the future, I'd test the temps before swapping fans. I use the Reeven Six Eyes to monitor the 4 rad points as well as ambient and case temps

Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=c229s579b145&id=kISyRgfV&mv_pc=643

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> what website has the best prices and best equipment to build a custom loop? what brand should i go with? I dont wanna pay top dollar.. but I dont want a garbage system either..
> 
> I know of Xoxide.com and FrozenCPU.com
> 
> is there another better? and again.. which brand of parts is better for a mid level price?


If the order is substantial, I'd make a spreadsheet of what ya ordering and what it costs from various vendors .... I had 68 items....66 I could get from one vendor (FCPU) so i couldn't sole source ..... most items were exactly the same .....if I bought from 3 different vendors I would saved $6 in one case and $8 in another .... unfortunately, it didn't exceed the extra shipping cost. Biggest variance was $4 on the 35x2 ($199.95 versus $195.99)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Yeah but is it worth it to change the fans if we compare the temp decrease and price for 6 fans.
> If we look for example Akasa 140mm Apache Super Silent for $16 it would cost $96 + shipping to change the fans.


The AF-140s did rather well here....outperforming even the Gentle Typhoons on big air coolers..... yes, not a radiator but the close fin spacing of a air cooler can offer quite a challenge when ya consider that no one is buying 30 fpi rads anymore..... with the 9 - 12 fpi rads ya see today, and with 30 45mm rads doing almost as well as Monstas, we don't need the large SPs we needed with yesteryear's thick 30 fpi rads.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank you for all that helpful information.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will go for 280's instead of 240's for my rads.
> 
> I'm going to have to admit Im an aesthetics kind of guy and while the phanteks look pretty good the white blades wouldn't go to well with my case. (unless I could paint them black or another color without too much of a performance hit)
> 
> What about the Cougar 140's or the Bit Fenix Spectre Pro 140's? I like the looks of both of those as well and they appear to be well suited for rad use. I do want the quietest and strongest airflow possible though.


I like thew white to offset all the read and black.... even got a white res to break it up a but more. There's a nice dye thread here on OCN includes fan blades.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye

For more fans Id look at these..... done on air coolers but not like the tight fin spacing of air coolers is much different challenge than rads

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> yea.. it was just a quick thought.. anyway.. another question I have.. (I've started a thread elsewhere but no one is responding, so I'm asking here) Is there anywhere that any of you know of.. where I can get a waterblock for my MSI Twin Frozr GTX 760 card? most of the water blocks out there are made for the Nvidia or ATI or their reference cards... and no one seems to make em for these cards


They have EK WBs for both the Twin Frozr(2 & 4 GB) non reference cards .... but not "full cover"
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Am i missing something? When did Corsair release SP140's??


Not aware they have .... if they did phanteks wud be pissed







.... I was recommending the Phanteks
Quote:


> Phanteks SP140 / XP 140
> 
> I have a 4770k which I had at 46 multiplier / 46 cache up until last BIOS upgrade which is sending too much voltage and twin 780s w/ 25+% OC on cre and 20+% on memory .... not quite as hot as your 290x's but close. I have an Alphacool XT45-420 on top and a UT60 on bottom w/ just (5) 1200 rpm SP140s in push


.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> The wall i talk about is really a radiator. The radiator in the picture is going to be mounted to the op of the case. I will post a better picture tomorrow.


Does this help ?

http://s130.photobucket.com/user/4ryan6/media/FrontRad_zpsa94c212c.png.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> lol... saw some one recommend 1 480 per 290x today in Star Citizen chatroll. Needless to say, after a 15 second face palm, i had to butt in & tell the man that his recommendation was utter lunacy. It all started with another person (obviously blowing smoke) saying " I'm still trying to figure out how to fit enough rads into this caselabs full tower to cool 3x 290x"


That's about as off as a singe 120mm from the Rule of Thumb ..... but depending on fan speeds.....

At 350 watts or more....If looking for a Delta T of 10C, I'd look for a rad that gave me 210 watts of cooling ....That could be a UT60-240 @ 1800 rpm in push pull for 217 watts ..... I think most would find acceptable.

But a ST30 w/ single 1000 rpm fans produces 200 watts so that would produce 8.5% less cooling than the UT60 at the 1800 rpm, ..... so depending on what Delta T ya looking for and the noise ya willing to accept. Of course, ....If ya were willing to accept a 20C Delta T, you can cut that in half...... For me, I'm a 10C / 1250 max rpm guy .... I'd start w/ a UT60-280 w/ single 1250 rpm fans for 170 watts and if I didn't like the temps, add the 2nd fan and get up to 206 watts.....bit short but close enough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Anybody know if the threads on this is 1/4?
> 
> EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm
> 
> I'd like to use something like this inside of my Primochill tube reservoir to eliminate the trickling effect from the return line.


It's not .... the EK single port top has G1/4 but the EK Multi port has the 12/16 ID / OD and threading that matches that part (I have both, so can confirm from personal experience.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Hey guys quick question, best thermal paste for GPU waterblocks (290X)? Or is the stuff that comes with EK's blocks (EK Ectotherm) good enough?


All my EKs came with Gelid Extreme .... which is what I bought for the CPU. Here's the most extensive TIM test I have found (80 TIMs)
http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I am gearing up for my next waterbuild, because this thread gives me the bug... Any watercooled builds in a phantech entho primo yet? I think thats going to be the case, but I want to see a dicent build in it before i jump.


Look at my sig







. I still haven't done the sleeving.



Also see the Enthjoo Primo Owners Club thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The ST 30 doesnt have the end ports either.
> 
> I think you have it back to front,the older rads have the bleed ports,the newer ones dont,all the first unboxings have the ports while its only recently where ports have been reported as not being there.


Ummmm ..... That's why I said we'll never see end ports on the ST30..... not yesterday, not today, not ever ..... because it is to thin......they wouldn't fit

I haven't verified so can't say one way or the other for sure, but just doesn't make lotta sense for it to be backwards, every web site that stocks them and took the pics 2 years ago doesn't have the port on the XT, the 2 year old unboxing video does not have it, all the reviews from 2 years ago list 6 ports but the ones shipping from supply houses today do have them ? .... when I put my order together, 2 months ago, it was listed as "not in stock, orderable" ....they were from different lots as one had copper and one had black screws. Just doesn't seem likely that something that was just delivered to reseller 2 months ago would be from the GTX 580 era. I'll try and find out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question about reservoirs and their ports. If a tube res has 3 ports, 2 at the bottom and 1 at the top. Can I use one of the bottom ports to feed the pump the other bottom port as the return from the loop, and the top as the fill bleed?
> 
> I ask because im not sure if the loop return into the reservoir has to go into the top or not.


That's the "normal way"....if ya fill from the top with a single port top w/ a fill tube then ya can't get the air out ....days one of the reasons why they make multiport tops.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> Anybody not trying to be annoying just trying to get my system back together tonight if I can
> Thank you


It looks like it is just stained, take a soft tooth brush and some dish soap to it and it should help quite a bit. If that doesn't work too much, then you can use some nickel polish with a tooth brush and that will work really well. Hope that helps!










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Rule of thumbs by definition are by no means to be relied on as accurate. In it's first historical usage it was equated to a guess
> 
> You're going to have to explain to me:
> 
> ...... how the same rule applies to a 100 watt card and a 350 watt card ....a 3.5 to one ratio
> .......how the same rule applies at 2200 rpm when a Monsta provided 122 watts of cooling still works the same at 1000 rpm and 50 watts .... a 2.44 ratio.
> .......how the same rule applies with single fan versus push / pull when 10- 30% differences have been measured in the lab.
> 
> Should we size our PSU the same way ? Same size PSU for two 100 watts GFX cards as two 350 watt GFX cards ? well since every watt of electricity is converted to heat why not ?
> 
> I find Martins testing methods to be sound and extremely accurate. The wattage can very easily be confirmed simply by hooking up a kil-o-watt meter. *Energy can not be created or destroyed*. I calculate 792.... I'm drawing close to that from the wall.... where is the energy going ? It all goes to heat with the small exception of ya pump which has converted about 10% of its electrical energy to kinetic energy. If you taking 750 watts from the wall, it is inarguable that you are producing a number of watts of heat that is very close to that.
> 
> http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec2001/1009665868.Cs.r.html
> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=A0oG7t5YT9xSSy0A1CBXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEzMjNhb2RtBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkA1NNRTMyMF8x?qid=20080721181547AANSaP8
> 
> What you are failing to realize is what I thought I carefully explained..... is that the radiator is only intended to pick up a portion of the load.....the block itself is a huge radiator .... the backplate is a radiator. But unless we suspend the laws of energy and thermodynamics, *every watt in must equal every watt out*. A card that pulls 300 watts of electricity produces 300 watts of heat. Your radiator will, and is only expected to handle a percentage of that of that.....the wires give off heat, the component surfaces gives off heat the tubing gives off heat, the reservoir gives off heat. Your radiator just is the most efficient at it. Even your pump will convert as much as 90% of the energy it consumes as heat .... the remaining being converted into kinetic energy.
> 
> When we move from guessing to science, first ya calculate the load, then we estimate the % of that load that we expect to be handled by the rads. No one ever suggested that a 350 watt card requires 350 watts of rad cooling. The GFX card has a HUGE water block which radiates heat direct to air, it has a HUGE backplate which radiates heat direct to air. A CPU block has no similarity to that.
> 
> The best analogy I can come up with is sizing a AC system for a house by 12000 BTU of the 1st room and 600 for each room thereafter ..... and yet none of these things matter.
> 
> Sun exposure or wooded ?
> Florida or Canada ?
> Size of rooms .... 120 sf bedrooms or 600 sf ?
> No insulation heavy insulation few windows, lotta windows
> Number of floors ?
> 
> The RoT (Rule of Thumb) will work in every instance in that the houses will be cooler..... some will be over sized and inefficient, some will be drastically undersized
> 
> As for ya GFX cards and the *whopping 35C temp rise* (at least I am assuming those are card temps, not Delta T) .... see next section
> The key words here are "massive" and "adequate" .... what is massive or adequate for one is inadequate for another. Which category from below is adequate ?
> 
> 1. Delta T = 5°C - Extreme system
> 2. Delta T = 10°C - High-end system
> 3. Delta T = 20°C - Mid-range system
> 4. Delta T = 30°C - Entry-level system
> 
> Thermodynamics is a science and its laws are inviolate. When cooling electronics, you need to set a goal. A Category 3 system will require half the rad area as a Category 2 system. Category 4 system will require 1/3 the rad area as a Category 2 system ..... all of them will "work" ..... but which one does the "rule apply to ? If you are aiming for category 2 and ya wind up with a 4, in my book that is a FAIL. Use "the rule" w/ multiple hi end GFX card systems and it will fail..... and again, not saying your cards will melt, I'm saying fail to maintain a delta T you targeted.
> 
> The problem with the rule of thumb is it bounces you from from Category 2 to 4 ....it's all over the place. For the "rule of thumb" to work, it should consistently give put you in the same category and it doesn't cause it's not based upon science and ignores that twice as much heat requires twice as much cooling. Again, we aren't talking about melting here, we are talking about meeting design goals.... if we talking about not melting then 0 rads accomplish that. All martins data and my representations of it are based upon meeting category 2 goals .
> 
> Perhaps it's better said this way ..... if ya goal is to be anywhere between a Delta T of 5C and a Delta T of 35C, the "rule" works; if ya goal is to hit any ONE of those categories specifically, it's a massive fail.
> 
> What category does the "rule of thumb" put you in ?
> 
> -Well in a CPU only loop, you produce 140 watts of heat .... a UT60-240 at 1250 rpm gives ya 125 watts or 90% of the load ..... and yest it still doesn't manage to get ya OC'd Haswell down below 75C ???? Why is that ? Small surface area, poor heat transfer off the core to the water Block mostly due to poor HS. But clearly a Category 1 or 2 solution.
> 
> -Now we get to where the rule fails. I couldn't ask for a better example of this than the test data B Negative provided. We see a huge 35C temp rise here ! What we do see from all the system owners here is that GPU temps don't have the typical 45C spread to coolant temps we see with GPUs .... most often < 10C ..... Large surface area, excellent heat transfer from the GPU to water block due to direct contact. So our CPU loop was at worse a category 2, now this GPU one here that is Category 4 ..... that's why the rule falls apart.
> 
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU loop, ya looking at Category 2
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 1 Hi End GPU loop, ya looking somewhere between a category 2 and 3
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 2 Hi End 2 GPU loop, ya looking at category 3
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 3 or 4 cards GPU loop, ya looking at Category 4
> 
> That's "not working" ..... it's certainly not worth the $1000 investment in water cooling that a person needs to make when doing a loop with 2 or more cards to wind up with temps just a bit better than air.
> Bubbles come down the tube, get released, their velocity will have then travel down a bit and their buyoancy causes them to go up ..... discharge the bubble at a point close to the suction tube and they can get sucked in before they have a chance to rise. The EK tubes are internal ..... they have different threads than G-1/4 fittings ..... the holes in the single port top are G-1/4 ..... can't bleed that tho, so ya get a mukti-port top. The multi-port is a single hole with different threads on each end .... top (external) is G-1/4, bottom (internal) 12/16 IIRC.
> 
> Not sure whay yta worried about the indentation..... they thot flush looked betetr so they made thicker top with indents.
> 
> 200 watts is 200 watts no mater how ya slice it.....however GPU transfer due to the large die size and direct contact will lower temps much more than is possible on CPU die.
> 
> Guru3D sets the 7950s power consumption at 138 watts .... adding 25% for an OC would put it at 172 watts
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/his_radeon_hd_7950_review,8.html
> 
> Your 172 watts is a prefect example of the "science" working....... 2000 rpm fans on a 120 rad....chart says ya should get about 95 watts from the rad alone....or about 55% of the calculated load..... with a large shroud surface area to help, certainly is in line with the suggested 60% figure we have been using. Double that with a 290x overclocked at 350 watts ..... with double the heat, ya gotta either 1) double the rads or 2) double the Delta T..... If ya on a tight budget, option 2 is it....if not, ya need double the rad....no other way around it.
> Agreed !
> 
> I covered those points above ...... Fan speed can NOT be ignored ..... surface area of die can NOT be ignored..... I think you and I discussed this in another thread..... I been using 60% of the load as a starting point ..... I had suggested that perhaps CPU should be 80% (crappy die heat transfer, small die) and GPUs 50% (large die, direct contact, good heat transfer).
> The RoT works here due to the oversize on the CPU and undersize on the rad .... let's look using the scientific method.
> 
> 135 watts + 272 watts (254 + 7% for OC) = 407 watts
> 407 watts x 60% = 244 watts
> 
> XT45-360 w/ 3 fans @ 1800 rpm = 257 watts according to martins test
> Very good
> 
> Now lets add 2 more GPUs .... that would be your 240 + 360 according to the RoT
> 
> 135 watts + 3 x 272 watts = 951 watts
> 389 watts x 60% = 571 watts
> 
> XT45-360 + XT45-240 w/ 3 fans @ 1800 rpm = 428 watts according to martins test
> Bit short
> What speed fans, .... how many 670s ya have now ? What kinda OC ?
> 
> A 670 produces 149 watts
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_670_review,8.html
> 
> 149 + 20% for OC = 178 watts
> 
> 178 x 60% = 107 watts
> 
> A ST30 @ 1800 rpm will give ya 110 watts.
> Yes, we have a lotta reputable folks on board working to improve it.....Martin has popped in and had good things to so so we're encouraged by that.... ModZoo and others have endorsed too.
> It's based on RL findings and actual laboratory test data. Martin seems to think it's pretty good, and I can't think of anyone more knowledgeable on the subject,..... ya have yet to show an example of how it's wrong ..... It does work in many instances but it way, way off target since the introduction of 250 watt cards.
> You said cards don't matter, fans don't matter, fan speed don't matter ..... Show us how the RoT works on a system with four 290x (Sky's 780s pull 400 watts each) and 4960 all at max OCs and *maintaining a Delta T of 10C.*
> 
> 286 watts + 25% for OC x 4 = 1144 watts (RoT = 4 x 120mm)
> 35x2 Pump = 40 watts of heat
> CPU = 236 watts (RoT = 2 x 120mm)
> 
> So we have 1420 watts of heat being generated and you are gonna cool that to a Delta T of 10C with two XT45-360s which provide 188 watts each.....good luck with that 26%
> 
> This whole "scientific" approach is based upon one stated fact, one which you seem to not want to recognize. The whole method is based upon the goal of attaining a Delta T of 10C and it has proven very accurate in doing so. Does everyone need 10C ? No..... so if they are happy with 20C, use the tool and divide by 2 ....happy with 30C, use the tool and divide by 3 ....There is absolutely no scenario under which your answer from the RoT will not fit the 10C, 20C or 30C criteria. The reverse however is not true. ....sometimes the RoT puts ya in 10C territory sometimes at 20C sometimes at 30C which is why I and many others find it inadequate.
> 
> When you took exception to my post about the UT60 and XT45 having 7 ports, I would not have posted this without verifying it, yes "back in the day: they might have had 6 but the ones shipping now have 7 as is shown in the pictures I provided. When you took exception to my post that the 35x2 could pull 50+ watts , I would not have posted this without verifying it, the data came direct from martins site. Here again this is all data verified by laboratory testing on martins site.
> 
> Typical Wattages (From Martins Site)
> 
> I'd welcome specific example with numbers and reasoning so we could improve the tool and make it better but "RoT is good enough" and "not RL" don't go a long way without some hard data.
> It's not my data ..... All I did was compile it on a single page and perhaps make it a little less intimidating to the casual WC'er..... everything there came from
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/
> 
> To most people here on OCN Martins site is the defacto "bible" of water cooling. For many it can be a bit "over their head" but we design power systems and water cooling is an integral part of that..... gives me just enough understanding to see what's science and what's snake oil and when something goes over my head, I can always ask one of the my MEP (mech-elect-plumb) employees to explain it to me.
> You make a lotta assumptions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... but wrong, .... again not true across the board ..... Everything has been verified "every way from Sunday "
> 
> 1. Using ONLY the CPU overclock subsection, not the entire PSU calculator . Seems to be what every web site I visit says, so I consider that good verification.... are you saying 4.8 Ghz CPUs @ 1.4 volts do not draw 135-145 watts ?
> 
> 2. GPU numbers of direct power consumption data come from Guru3D Metered Power Measurements. No overestimation, measured with a meter
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_780_review,9.html
> 3. Pump Data taken from Martins own testing that's where I got the 35x2 numbers you took exception to (see also his GPU / CPU numbers above)
> 
> 4. I verified the data using "kil-o-watt:....landed right on the money...... I hit 765 watts draw for a 792 watt calculated load..... I'd say anything under 10% is pretty darn good but of course when I was testing everything wasn't at full load.
> His "assumption" is incorrect .... all data has been verified by multiple sources *and* power meter measurements
> 
> This is less true now than it was.... My fans mostly run at 450 rpm and peak at 850 pm..... ya know those less than paper thin little "sign here" Posy It's that ya accountant uses when he sends ya the tax returns .... I have them attached to the other side from the fans on my rads .... they barely move . Now ya got me interested..... so ran a test
> 
> Turned my fans down to 500 rpm..... ran 20 minutes
> 
> Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 38.9 / 37.6
> Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 37.6 / 36.3
> GPUs at 47C / CPU at 49C
> 
> Turned Fans off ....waited 10 minutes
> 
> Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 49.6 / 49.1
> Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 49.2 / 48.6
> GPUs at 57C / CPU at 47C
> 
> Turned Fans on ....waited 10 minutes, let fan curve control and peaked at 850 rpm
> 
> Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 36.8 / 35.3
> Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 35.6 / 34.1
> GPUs at 45C / CPU at 40C
> 
> What I am getting at....these fans are not producing a lotta SP at 500 and 850 rpm ..... so Id test the temps before swapping fans.
> 
> Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=c229s579b145&id=kISyRgfV&mv_pc=643
> If the order is substantial, I'd make a spreadsheet of what ya ordering and what it costs from various vendors .... I had 68 items....66 I could get from one vendor (FCPU) so i couldn't sole source ..... most items were exactly the same .....if I bought from 3 different vendors I would saved $6 in one case and $8 in another .... unfortunately, it didn't exceed the extra shipping cost. Biggest variance was $4 on the 35x2 ($199.95 versus $195.99)
> The AF-140s did rather well here....outperforming even the Gentle Typhoons on big air coolers..... yes, not a radiator but the close fin spacing of a air cooler can offer quite a challenge when ya consider that no one is buying 30 fpi rads anymore..... with the 9 - 12 fpi rads ya see today, amd with 30 45mm rads doing almost as well as Monstas, not a lot is needed.
> I like thew white to offset all the read and black.... even got a white res to break it up a but more. There's a nice dye thread here on OCN includes fan blades.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye
> 
> For more fans Id look at these..... done on air coolers but not like the tight fin spacing of air coolers is much different challenge than rads
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html
> They have EK WBs for both the Twin Frozr(2 & 4 GB) non reference cards .... but not "full cover"
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/
> Not aware they have .... if they did phanteks wud be pissed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I was recommending the Phanteks
> Does this help ?
> 
> http://s130.photobucket.com/user/4ryan6/media/FrontRad_zpsa94c212c.png.html
> .
> That's about as off as a singe 120mm from the Rule of Thumb ..... but depending on fan speeds.....
> 
> At 350 watts or more....If looking for a Delta T of 10C, I'd look for a rad that gave me 210 watts of cooling ....That could be a UT60-240 @ 1800 rpm in push pull for 217 watts ..... I think most would find acceptable.
> 
> But a ST30 w/ single 1000 rpm fans produces 200 watts so that would produce 8.5% less cooling than the UT60 at the 1800 rpm, ..... so depending on what Delta T ya looking for and the noise ya willing to accept. Of course, ....If ya were willing to accept a 20C Delta T, you can cut that in half...... For me, I'm a 10C / 1250 max rpm guy .... I'd start w/ a UT60-280 w/ single 1250 rpm fans for 170 watts and if I didn't like the temps, add the 2nd fan and get up to 206 watts.....bit short but close enough
> 4\//'444
> 
> It's not .... the EK single port top has G1/4 but the EK Multi port has the 12/16 ID / OD and threading that matches that part (I have both)
> All my EKs came with Gelid Extreme .... which is what I bought for the CPU. here's the most extensive TIM test I have found (80 TIMs)
> http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12
> Look at my sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I still haven't dome the sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> Also see the Enthjoo Primo Owners Club thread
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club
> Ummmm ..... That's why I said we'll never see end ports on the ST30 not yesterday, not today, not ever ..... because it is to thin......they wouldn't fit
> 
> I haven't verified but just doesn't make lotta sense for it to be backwards, every web site that stocks them and took the pics 2 years ago doesn't have the port on the XT, the 2 year old unboxing video does not have it, all the reviews from 2 years ago list 6 ports but the ones shipping from supply houses today do have them ? .... when I put my order together, 2 months ago, it was listed as "not in stock, orderable" ....they were from different lots as one had copper and one had black screws. Just doesn't seem likely that something that was just delivered to reseller 2 months ago would be from the GTX 580 era.
> That's the "normal way"....if ya fill from the top with a single port top w/ a fill tube then ya can't get the air out ....days one of the reasons why they make multiport tops.






That is the longest post I have ever seen


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ahhhhh you were referring to the PITA part of it.
> Is the thermal benefits worth the trouble? I don't remember what type of percent of a temp drop is normal.


It did pretty well, but a good dose of CLU seems to be just as good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Was gonna install the indigo Xtreme, but the instllation instructions scared me. PLus I might swap my 4930K for a new one, and didnt wanna waste any of it.


yeah... I used it twice, then never used the 3 other strips I purchased. So I now have 60$ worth of left over lga115X strips here in the box of computer junk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> I have a question I just took apart my cup block and saw this and wasn't sure if it's normal or if I need to replace the block or if there is any thing to be worry about
> The nickel plating seems to have worn off Maybe not sure?
> What are your guys thoughts
> Thanks in advanced for your input


Looks fine to me. Nickel is prone to staining, which allot of people mistake for corrosion/flaking.

when it looks like this, you know you have an issue.



(right click, open in new tab for full size image)

You can literally see down to the copper. Speaking of which, EK had to send out a second RMA package because the first one has yet to show up after 3 weeks in the mail. Slightly strange that they don't have/use a shipping service which provides a tracking number. I know some services don't update international tracking, but I know fedex & UPS do. Hopefully the second package shows up some time soon. It's slightly annoying having a 600$ gap in your bank account.

@JackNaylorPE You do realize that radiators have a pretty hefty diminishing return right? I was cooling 2x heavily OC'd titans & a 5.0 3570k with a 360 slim for a long time. Max GPU temps were 45, max CPU temp was 65... I added a 240 monsta later on, temps dropped by 2c on GPU's & 3c on CPU. (all with high speed typhoon push/pull)


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I bought both a GTX 560 and a GTX 240 in July 2012 and both of them are glossy and flawless. HL makes the best radiators IMO, though I've never personally used anything else so what do I know?


HL's Sr-1 series have always been matte black. However, GTX and Stealth series come in glossy black finish.


----------



## aaroc

I want to build my first WC custom loop. How many radiators do I need to cool:

1x AMD FX 8350
1x Asus Crosshair V Formula Z (VRM)
3x R9 290 (2 XFX, 1 MSI)

Inside a Cooler Master 690 II Advanced I can put 2x 240mm rads and one 120mm with the width of a Corsair H100i or Antec 620. Is this enough? Do I need to have two separate loops, one for CPU and VRM and one for GPUs? I dont OC, but it would be nice to have some OC room.

My current setup with a Corsair H100i:

My previous setup (3 months ago) with two Antec 620 for each AMD HD 7870. This is only possible with two GPUs and now i have three










All advice welcomed.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge and experiences.


----------



## Jimhans1

@aaroc

I have done a build in the 690 ADV II, and I can tell you, that with that ax1200 in there, you probably won't fit a 240mm in the bottom, possibly, but not likely, that PSU is way long.

In the one I built, there was a [email protected] thick in the bottom, and a [email protected] up top. But that system only had two 660Ti's and a [email protected]



It had no troubles dealing with that setup temp wise. But I think your psu length is going to limit you.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Rule of thumbs by definition are by no means to be relied on as accurate. In it's first historical usage it was equated to a guess
> -snip.


informative read


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @aaroc
> 
> I have done a build in the 690 ADV II, and I can tell you, that with that ax1200 in there, you probably won't fit a 240mm in the bottom, possibly, but not likely, that PSU is way long.
> 
> In the one I built, there was a [email protected] thick in the bottom, and a [email protected] up top. But that system only had two 660Ti's and a [email protected]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It had no troubles dealing with that setup temp wise. But I think your psu length is going to limit you.


You are correct about the length problem of the AX1200 getting in the way of putting a 240mm on the bottom. But I was going to take the hdd cage out and try to put a 240mm on the front . I only have 2 ssd and I can put them in another place.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That is the longest post I have ever seen


Some folks will complain if ya do two posts in a row..... don't understand the difference really.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Rule of thumbs by definition are by no means to be relied on as accurate. In it's first historical usage it was equated to a guess
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You're going to have to explain to me:
> 
> ...... how the same rule applies to a 100 watt card and a 350 watt card ....a 3.5 to one ratio
> .......how the same rule applies at 2200 rpm when a Monsta provided 122 watts of cooling still works the same at 1000 rpm and 50 watts .... a 2.44 ratio.
> .......how the same rule applies with single fan versus push / pull when 10- 30% differences have been measured in the lab.
> 
> Should we size our PSU the same way ? Same size PSU for two 100 watts GFX cards as two 350 watt GFX cards ? well since every watt of electricity is converted to heat why not ?
> 
> I find Martins testing methods to be sound and extremely accurate. The wattage can very easily be confirmed simply by hooking up a kil-o-watt meter. *Energy can not be created or destroyed*. I calculate 792.... I'm drawing close to that from the wall.... where is the energy going ? It all goes to heat with the small exception of ya pump which has converted about 10% of its electrical energy to kinetic energy. If you taking 750 watts from the wall, it is inarguable that you are producing a number of watts of heat that is very close to that.
> 
> http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec2001/1009665868.Cs.r.html
> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=A0oG7t5YT9xSSy0A1CBXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEzMjNhb2RtBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkA1NNRTMyMF8x?qid=20080721181547AANSaP8
> 
> What you are failing to realize is what I thought I carefully explained..... is that the radiator is only intended to pick up a portion of the load.....the block itself is a huge radiator .... the backplate is a radiator. But unless we suspend the laws of energy and thermodynamics, *every watt in must equal every watt out*. A card that pulls 300 watts of electricity produces 300 watts of heat. Your radiator will, and is only expected to handle a percentage of that of that.....the wires give off heat, the component surfaces gives off heat the tubing gives off heat, the reservoir gives off heat. Your radiator just is the most efficient at it. Even your pump will convert as much as 90% of the energy it consumes as heat .... the remaining being converted into kinetic energy.
> 
> When we move from guessing to science, first ya calculate the load, then we estimate the % of that load that we expect to be handled by the rads. No one ever suggested that a 350 watt card requires 350 watts of rad cooling. The GFX card has a HUGE water block which radiates heat direct to air, it has a HUGE backplate which radiates heat direct to air. A CPU block has no similarity to that.
> 
> The best analogy I can come up with is sizing a AC system for a house by 12000 BTU of the 1st room and 600 for each room thereafter ..... and yet none of these things matter.
> 
> Sun exposure or wooded ?
> Florida or Canada ?
> Size of rooms .... 120 sf bedrooms or 600 sf ?
> No insulation heavy insulation few windows, lotta windows
> Number of floors ?
> 
> The RoT (Rule of Thumb) will work in every instance in that the houses will be cooler..... some will be over sized and inefficient, some will be drastically undersized
> 
> As for ya GFX cards and the *whopping 35C temp rise* (at least I am assuming those are card temps, not Delta T) .... see next section
> The key words here are "massive" and "adequate" .... what is massive or adequate for one is inadequate for another. Which category from below is adequate ?
> 
> 1. Delta T = 5°C - Extreme system
> 2. Delta T = 10°C - High-end system
> 3. Delta T = 20°C - Mid-range system
> 4. Delta T = 30°C - Entry-level system
> 
> Thermodynamics is a science and its laws are inviolate. When cooling electronics, you need to set a goal. A Category 3 system will require half the rad area as a Category 2 system. Category 4 system will require 1/3 the rad area as a Category 2 system ..... all of them will "work" ..... but which one does the "rule apply to ? If you are aiming for category 2 and ya wind up with a 4, in my book that is a FAIL. Use "the rule" w/ multiple hi end GFX card systems and it will fail..... and again, not saying your cards will melt, I'm saying fail to maintain a delta T you targeted.
> 
> The problem with the rule of thumb is it bounces you from from Category 2 to 4 ....it's all over the place. For the "rule of thumb" to work, it should consistently give put you in the same category and it doesn't cause it's not based upon science and ignores that twice as much heat requires twice as much cooling. Again, we aren't talking about melting here, we are talking about meeting design goals.... if we talking about not melting then 0 rads accomplish that. All martins data and my representations of it are based upon meeting category 2 goals .
> 
> Perhaps it's better said this way ..... if ya goal is to be anywhere between a Delta T of 5C and a Delta T of 35C, the "rule" works; if ya goal is to hit any ONE of those categories specifically, it's a massive fail.
> 
> What category does the "rule of thumb" put you in ?
> 
> -Well in a CPU only loop, you produce 140 watts of heat .... a UT60-240 at 1250 rpm gives ya 125 watts or 90% of the load ..... and yest it still doesn't manage to get ya OC'd Haswell down below 75C ???? Why is that ? Small surface area, poor heat transfer off the core to the water Block mostly due to poor HS. But clearly a Category 1 or 2 solution.
> 
> -Now we get to where the rule fails. I couldn't ask for a better example of this than the test data B Negative provided. We see a huge 35C temp rise here ! What we do see from all the system owners here is that GPU temps don't have the typical 45C spread to coolant temps we see with GPUs .... most often < 10C ..... Large surface area, excellent heat transfer from the GPU to water block due to direct contact. So our CPU loop was at worse a category 2, now this GPU one here that is Category 4 ..... that's why the rule falls apart.
> 
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU loop, ya looking at Category 2
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 1 Hi End GPU loop, ya looking somewhere between a category 2 and 3
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 2 Hi End 2 GPU loop, ya looking at category 3
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 3 or 4 cards GPU loop, ya looking at Category 4
> 
> That's "not working" ..... it's certainly not worth the $1000 investment in water cooling that a person needs to make when doing a loop with 2 or more cards to wind up with temps just a bit better than air.
> Bubbles come down the tube, get released, their velocity will have then travel down a bit and their buyoancy causes them to go up ..... discharge the bubble at a point close to the suction tube and they can get sucked in before they have a chance to rise. The EK tubes are internal ..... they have different threads than G-1/4 fittings ..... the holes in the single port top are G-1/4 ..... can't bleed that tho, so ya get a mukti-port top. The multi-port is a single hole with different threads on each end .... top (external) is G-1/4, bottom (internal) 12/16 IIRC.
> 
> Not sure whay yta worried about the indentation..... they thot flush looked betetr so they made thicker top with indents.
> 
> 200 watts is 200 watts no mater how ya slice it.....however GPU transfer due to the large die size and direct contact will lower temps much more than is possible on CPU die.
> 
> Guru3D sets the 7950s power consumption at 138 watts .... adding 25% for an OC would put it at 172 watts
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/his_radeon_hd_7950_review,8.html
> 
> Your 172 watts is a prefect example of the "science" working....... 2000 rpm fans on a 120 rad....chart says ya should get about 95 watts from the rad alone....or about 55% of the calculated load..... with a large shroud surface area to help, certainly is in line with the suggested 60% figure we have been using. Double that with a 290x overclocked at 350 watts ..... with double the heat, ya gotta either 1) double the rads or 2) double the Delta T..... If ya on a tight budget, option 2 is it....if not, ya need double the rad....no other way around it.
> Agreed !
> 
> I covered those points above ...... Fan speed can NOT be ignored ..... surface area of die can NOT be ignored..... I think you and I discussed this in another thread..... I been using 60% of the load as a starting point ..... I had suggested that perhaps CPU should be 80% (crappy die heat transfer, small die) and GPUs 50% (large die, direct contact, good heat transfer).
> The RoT works here due to the oversize on the CPU and undersize on the rad .... let's look using the scientific method.
> 
> 135 watts + 272 watts (254 + 7% for OC) = 407 watts
> 407 watts x 60% = 244 watts
> 
> XT45-360 w/ 3 fans @ 1800 rpm = 257 watts according to martins test
> Very good
> 
> Now lets add 2 more GPUs .... that would be your 240 + 360 according to the RoT
> 
> 135 watts + 3 x 272 watts = 951 watts
> 389 watts x 60% = 571 watts
> 
> XT45-360 + XT45-240 w/ 3 fans @ 1800 rpm = 428 watts according to martins test
> Bit short
> What speed fans, .... how many 670s ya have now ? What kinda OC ?
> 
> A 670 produces 149 watts
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_670_review,8.html
> 
> 149 + 20% for OC = 178 watts
> 
> 178 x 60% = 107 watts
> 
> A ST30 @ 1800 rpm will give ya 110 watts.
> Yes, we have a lotta reputable folks on board working to improve it.....Martin has popped in and had good things to so so we're encouraged by that.... ModZoo and others have endorsed too.
> It's based on RL findings and actual laboratory test data. Martin seems to think it's pretty good, and I can't think of anyone more knowledgeable on the subject,..... ya have yet to show an example of how it's wrong ..... It does work in many instances but it way, way off target since the introduction of 250 watt cards.
> You said cards don't matter, fans don't matter, fan speed don't matter ..... Show us how the RoT works on a system with four 290x (Sky's 780s pull 400 watts each) and 4960 all at max OCs and *maintaining a Delta T of 10C.*
> 
> 286 watts + 25% for OC x 4 = 1144 watts (RoT = 4 x 120mm)
> 35x2 Pump = 40 watts of heat
> CPU = 236 watts (RoT = 2 x 120mm)
> 
> So we have 1420 watts of heat being generated and you are gonna cool that to a Delta T of 10C with two XT45-360s which provide 188 watts each.....good luck with that 26%
> 
> This whole "scientific" approach is based upon one stated fact, one which you seem to not want to recognize. The whole method is based upon the goal of attaining a Delta T of 10C and it has proven very accurate in doing so. Does everyone need 10C ? No..... so if they are happy with 20C, use the tool and divide by 2 ....happy with 30C, use the tool and divide by 3 ....There is absolutely no scenario under which your answer from the RoT will not fit the 10C, 20C or 30C criteria. The reverse however is not true. ....sometimes the RoT puts ya in 10C territory sometimes at 20C sometimes at 30C which is why I and many others find it inadequate.
> 
> When you took exception to my post about the UT60 and XT45 having 7 ports, I would not have posted this without verifying it, yes "back in the day: they might have had 6 but the ones shipping now have 7 as is shown in the pictures I provided. When you took exception to my post that the 35x2 could pull 50+ watts , I would not have posted this without verifying it, the data came direct from martins site. Here again this is all data verified by laboratory testing on martins site.
> 
> Typical Wattages (From Martins Site)
> 
> I'd welcome specific example with numbers and reasoning so we could improve the tool and make it better but "RoT is good enough" and "not RL" don't go a long way without some hard data.
> It's not my data ..... All I did was compile it on a single page and perhaps make it a little less intimidating to the casual WC'er..... everything there came from
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/
> 
> To most people here on OCN Martins site is the defacto "bible" of water cooling. For many it can be a bit "over their head" but we design power systems and water cooling is an integral part of that..... gives me just enough understanding to see what's science and what's snake oil and when something goes over my head, I can always ask one of the my MEP (mech-elect-plumb) employees to explain it to me.
> You make a lotta assumptions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... but wrong, .... again not true across the board ..... Everything has been verified "every way from Sunday "
> 
> 1. Using ONLY the CPU overclock subsection, not the entire PSU calculator . Seems to be what every web site I visit says, so I consider that good verification.... are you saying 4.8 Ghz CPUs @ 1.4 volts do not draw 135-145 watts ?
> 
> 2. GPU numbers of direct power consumption data come from Guru3D Metered Power Measurements. No overestimation, measured with a meter
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_780_review,9.html
> 3. Pump Data taken from Martins own testing that's where I got the 35x2 numbers you took exception to (see also his GPU / CPU numbers above)
> 
> 4. I verified the data using "kil-o-watt:....landed right on the money...... I hit 765 watts draw for a 792 watt calculated load..... I'd say anything under 10% is pretty darn good but of course when I was testing everything wasn't at full load.
> B Neg's "assumption" is off base .... all data has been verified by multiple sources *and* power meter measurements
> 
> The SP thing is less true now than it was, but still important.... My fans mostly run at 450 rpm and peak at 850 pm..... ya know those less than paper thin little "sign here" Post-It's that ya accountant uses when he sends ya the tax returns .... I have them attached to the other side from the fans on my rads .... they barely move and on;y at 1200 rpm. But now ya got me interested..... so ran a test
> 
> Turned my fans down to 500 rpm..... ran 20 minutes (NOTE Fan filters out)
> 
> Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 38.9 / 37.6
> Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 37.6 / 36.3
> GPUs at 47C / CPU at 49C
> 
> Turned Fans off ....waited 10 minutes
> 
> Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 49.6 / 49.1
> Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 49.2 / 48.6
> GPUs at 57C / CPU at 47C
> 
> Turned Fans on ....waited 10 minutes, let fan curve control and peaked at 850 rpm
> 
> Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 36.8 / 35.3
> Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 35.6 / 34.1
> GPUs at 45C / CPU at 40C
> 
> With fans at full blast @ 1200 rpm
> 
> Rad 1 (After GPU) In / Out = 33.0 / 31.7
> Rad 2 (After GPU) In / Out = 31.8 / 30.5
> GPUs at 39C / CPU at 34C
> Delta T is 8.4 C (12.2C when put filters back in)
> 
> What I am getting at....these fans are not producing a lotta SP at 500 and 850 rpm ..... so if ya thinking or monitoring temps at some point in the future, I'd test the temps before swapping fans. I use the Reeven Six Eyes to monitor the 4 rad points as well as ambient and case temps
> 
> Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=c229s579b145&id=kISyRgfV&mv_pc=643
> If the order is substantial, I'd make a spreadsheet of what ya ordering and what it costs from various vendors .... I had 68 items....66 I could get from one vendor (FCPU) so i couldn't sole source ..... most items were exactly the same .....if I bought from 3 different vendors I would saved $6 in one case and $8 in another .... unfortunately, it didn't exceed the extra shipping cost. Biggest variance was $4 on the 35x2 ($199.95 versus $195.99)
> The AF-140s did rather well here....outperforming even the Gentle Typhoons on big air coolers..... yes, not a radiator but the close fin spacing of a air cooler can offer quite a challenge when ya consider that no one is buying 30 fpi rads anymore..... with the 9 - 12 fpi rads ya see today, and with 30 45mm rads doing almost as well as Monstas, we don't need the large SPs we needed with yesteryear's thick 30 fpi rads.
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html
> I like thew white to offset all the read and black.... even got a white res to break it up a but more. There's a nice dye thread here on OCN includes fan blades.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye
> 
> For more fans Id look at these..... done on air coolers but not like the tight fin spacing of air coolers is much different challenge than rads
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html
> They have EK WBs for both the Twin Frozr(2 & 4 GB) non reference cards .... but not "full cover"
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/
> Not aware they have .... if they did phanteks wud be pissed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I was recommending the Phanteks
> .
> Does this help ?
> 
> http://s130.photobucket.com/user/4ryan6/media/FrontRad_zpsa94c212c.png.html
> That's about as off as a singe 120mm from the Rule of Thumb ..... but depending on fan speeds.....
> 
> At 350 watts or more....If looking for a Delta T of 10C, I'd look for a rad that gave me 210 watts of cooling ....That could be a UT60-240 @ 1800 rpm in push pull for 217 watts ..... I think most would find acceptable.
> 
> But a ST30 w/ single 1000 rpm fans produces 200 watts so that would produce 8.5% less cooling than the UT60 at the 1800 rpm, ..... so depending on what Delta T ya looking for and the noise ya willing to accept. Of course, ....If ya were willing to accept a 20C Delta T, you can cut that in half...... For me, I'm a 10C / 1250 max rpm guy .... I'd start w/ a UT60-280 w/ single 1250 rpm fans for 170 watts and if I didn't like the temps, add the 2nd fan and get up to 206 watts.....bit short but close enough
> It's not .... the EK single port top has G1/4 but the EK Multi port has the 12/16 ID / OD and threading that matches that part (I have both, so can confirm from personal experience.)
> All my EKs came with Gelid Extreme .... which is what I bought for the CPU. Here's the most extensive TIM test I have found (80 TIMs)
> http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12
> Look at my sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I still haven't done the sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> Also see the Enthjoo Primo Owners Club thread
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club
> Ummmm ..... That's why I said we'll never see end ports on the ST30..... not yesterday, not today, not ever ..... because it is to thin......they wouldn't fit
> 
> I haven't verified so can't say one way or the other for sure, but just doesn't make lotta sense for it to be backwards, every web site that stocks them and took the pics 2 years ago doesn't have the port on the XT, the 2 year old unboxing video does not have it, all the reviews from 2 years ago list 6 ports but the ones shipping from supply houses today do have them ? .... when I put my order together, 2 months ago, it was listed as "not in stock, orderable" ....they were from different lots as one had copper and one had black screws. Just doesn't seem likely that something that was just delivered to reseller 2 months ago would be from the GTX 580 era. I'll try and find out.
> That's the "normal way"....if ya fill from the top with a single port top w/ a fill tube then ya can't get the air out ....days one of the r
> 
> 
> easons why they make multiport tops.


Thx for the write up,that has cleared up alot of things for this newb....


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE You do realize that radiators have a pretty hefty diminishing return right? I was cooling 2x heavily OC'd titans & a 5.0 3570k with a 360 slim for a long time. Max GPU temps were 45, max CPU temp was 65... I added a 240 monsta later on, temps dropped by 2c on GPU's & 3c on CPU. (all with high speed typhoon push/pull)


Very much so.....

1. You woulda seen almost no difference with an XT45 .... 240 Monsta at 1800 in push pull is 227....UT60 is just 10 watts less and XT45 just 10 watts below that.
2. It's much more significant at lower fan speeds.

it's all about the Delta T ..... not much mysterious about math.

3C is quite significant on a CPU.
Some folks will complain if ya do two posts in a row..... don't understand the difference really.[/quote]


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> You are correct about the length problem of the AX1200 getting in the way of putting a 240mm on the bottom. But I was going to take the hdd cage out and try to put a 240mm on the front . I only have 2 ssd and I can put them in another place.


You might also need to mod the bottom of the 5.25" bays in the case. There wasn't a lot of space past the 2-120mm fan capabilities in the front. And up top, your kinda limited to a slim rad in push or pull only, push/pull is almost certainly out since the 240 mount there is centered, and you would hit even the shortest ram sticks. Any questions or thoughts, post them up or PM me.

This is the side window I put in the panel so the liquid gear was visible.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Very much so.....
> 
> 1. You woulda seen almost no difference with an XT45 .... 240 Monsta at 1800 in push pull is 227....UT60 is just 10 watts less and XT45 just 10 watts below that.
> 2. It's much more significant at lower fan speeds.
> 
> it's all about the Delta T ..... not much mysterious about math.
> 
> 3C is quite significant on a CPU.
> Some folks will complain if ya do two posts in a row..... don't understand the difference really.


This is weird .... every time I quote a post I get the HTML but no content.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx for the write up,that has cleared up alot of things for this newb.


Yes, it seems to be well rec'd .... if there's anything that is not quite understandable for you, Med(red) or anyone else .... please list it in the estimator thread.....Im gonna go back an re-emphacize the 10C thing cause a lotta peeps seem to miss that part.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator


----------



## Jimhans1

Ok, anybody seen any discount codes for PPCS since New Years? I'm placing an order tomorrow AM and was just checking. And yes, I know about the OCN55, was just wondering if there were any others.

Thx.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Here's my cheat sheet









Frozen CPU.com Discount Coupon: xtreme or pcapex
Jab Tech Promo Code: facebook
performancepcs OCN55


----------



## kpoeticg

I think the PPC New Years codes ended like Jan 10th

Edit:

Spend $50-$250, get 6% off: "*2014-6*"
Spend over $250 get 8% off: "*2014-8*"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from *December 25th through January 1st 2013*. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Skuli

pr0n time... I'm not 100% done, but it's running now and visually very close.

Can I call myself a member of the water cooling club now?















I have a full cover glass top, but haven't figured out how to take photos of it without horrible reflection problems.

During my very preliminary testing the system is running very quiet, even under load with auto-adjust fan speeds. The CPU under OCCT is maxing at 48C and the GPU is maxing at 35C. That's with the fans between 800 and 1200 rpm. No overclocking yet.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> pr0n time... I'm not 100% done, but it's running now and visually very close.
> 
> Can I call myself a member of the water cooling club now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a full cover glass top, but haven't figured out how to take photos of it without horrible reflection problems.
> 
> During my very preliminary testing the system is running very quiet, even under load with auto-adjust fan speeds. The CPU under OCCT is maxing at 48C and the GPU is maxing at 35C. That's with the fans between 800 and 1200 rpm. No overclocking yet.


looks great even without individually sleeved cables. Looks like black and red licorice.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I'm not one for downloading sketchy files.
> 
> I'm bored with my setup and I only finished it about a week ago. Is there some sort of Watercooling Addicts support group? I think I have a problem. :/


I "finished" mine back in July and I'm still working on it. Next month is new cables and then I'll finally post pics and join the club.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Here's my cheat sheet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Frozen CPU.com Discount Coupon: xtreme or pcapex*
> Jab Tech Promo Code: facebook
> performancepcs OCN55


We have our own code for FCPU; it's OCN (5.1% off). I've used it 6 times this year - works every time


----------



## Jameswalt1

Pumps are in, entire loop is now installed























Next step is filling the loop and then wiring....

-


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, too much eye-candy on one page. My teeth are starting to hurt


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> We have our own code for FCPU; it's OCN (5.1% off). I've used it 6 times this year - works every time


Wish I had known about the *OCN* code for 5.1% off at FrozenCPU before now. I've seen the XTREME and PCAPEX codes posted here at OCN a LOT and have used one or the other of those codes at least a dozen times but not until now have I noticed anyone post that one. I just used the OCN code and it works sure enough for a 5.1% discount. Good to know. I'd rather use it instead.

A couple other codes for other places.
Performance-PCs: *OCN55* (5.5%)
Jab-tech: *facebook* (5%)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The rule of thumb works just fine,you are massively over estimating how much rad is actually required,GPU's for example do not input as much heat as you think in to a loop.......
> 
> You can work out hypothetical numbers but they rarely paint the whole picture....so,in short,it doesnt 'fall apart' at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Rule of thumbs by definition are by no means to be relied on as accurate. In it's first historical usage it was equated to a guess
> 
> You're going to have to explain to me:
> 
> ...... how the same rule applies to a 100 watt card and a 350 watt card ....a 3.5 to one ratio
> .......how the same rule applies at 2200 rpm when a Monsta provided 122 watts of cooling still works the same at 1000 rpm and 50 watts .... a 2.44 ratio.
> .......how the same rule applies with single fan versus push / pull when 10- 30% differences have been measured in the lab.
> 
> Should we size our PSU the same way ? Same size PSU for two 100 watts GFX cards as two 350 watt GFX cards ? well since every watt of electricity is converted to heat why not ?
> 
> I find Martins testing methods to be sound and extremely accurate. The wattage can very easily be confirmed simply by hooking up a kil-o-watt meter. *Energy can not be created or destroyed*. I calculate 792.... I'm drawing close to that from the wall.... where is the energy going ? It all goes to heat with the small exception of ya pump which has converted about 10% of its electrical energy to kinetic energy. If you taking 750 watts from the wall, it is inarguable that you are producing a number of watts of heat that is very close to that.
> 
> http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec2001/1009665868.Cs.r.html
> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=A0oG7t5YT9xSSy0A1CBXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEzMjNhb2RtBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkA1NNRTMyMF8x?qid=20080721181547AANSaP8
> 
> What you are failing to realize is what I thought I carefully explained..... is that the radiator is only intended to pick up a portion of the load.....the block itself is a huge radiator .... the backplate is a radiator. But unless we suspend the laws of energy and thermodynamics, *every watt in must equal every watt out*. A card that pulls 300 watts of electricity produces 300 watts of heat. Your radiator will, and is only expected to handle a percentage of that of that.....the wires give off heat, the component surfaces gives off heat the tubing gives off heat, the reservoir gives off heat. Your radiator just is the most efficient at it. Even your pump will convert as much as 90% of the energy it consumes as heat .... the remaining being converted into kinetic energy.
> 
> When we move from guessing to science, first ya calculate the load, then we estimate the % of that load that we expect to be handled by the rads. No one ever suggested that a 350 watt card requires 350 watts of rad cooling. The GFX card has a HUGE water block which radiates heat direct to air, it has a HUGE backplate which radiates heat direct to air. A CPU block has no similarity to that.
> 
> The best analogy I can come up with is sizing a AC system for a house by 12000 BTU of the 1st room and 600 for each room thereafter ..... and yet none of these things matter.
> 
> Sun exposure or wooded ?
> Florida or Canada ?
> Size of rooms .... 120 sf bedrooms or 600 sf ?
> No insulation heavy insulation few windows, lotta windows
> Number of floors ?
> 
> The RoT (Rule of Thumb) will work in every instance in that the houses will be cooler..... some will be over sized and inefficient, some will be drastically undersized
> 
> As for ya GFX cards and the *whopping 35C temp rise* (at least I am assuming those are card temps, not Delta T) .... see next section
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The main point of starting was to dispel the myth that massive amount of rad surface area is required for _*adequate*_ components cooling.
> Here are some of the questions he poses and hopes to test clarify is his OP
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The key words here are "massive" and "adequate" .... what is massive or adequate for one is inadequate for another. Which category from below is adequate ?
> 
> 1. Delta T = 5°C - Extreme system
> 2. Delta T = 10°C - High-end system
> 3. Delta T = 20°C - Mid-range system
> 4. Delta T = 30°C - Entry-level system
> 
> Thermodynamics is a science and its laws are inviolate. When cooling electronics, you need to set a goal. A Category 3 system will require half the rad area as a Category 2 system. Category 4 system will require 1/3 the rad area as a Category 2 system ..... all of them will "work" ..... but which one does the "rule apply to ? If you are aiming for category 2 and ya wind up with a 4, in my book that is a FAIL. Use "the rule" w/ multiple hi end GFX card systems and it will fail..... and again, not saying your cards will melt, I'm saying fail to maintain a delta T you targeted.
> 
> The problem with the rule of thumb is it bounces you from from Category 2 to 4 ....it's all over the place. For the "rule of thumb" to work, it should consistently give put you in the same category and it doesn't cause it's not based upon science and ignores that twice as much heat requires twice as much cooling. Again, we aren't talking about melting here, we are talking about meeting design goals.... if we talking about not melting then 0 rads accomplish that. All martins data and my representations of it are based upon meeting category 2 goals .
> 
> Perhaps it's better said this way ..... if ya goal is to be anywhere between a Delta T of 5C and a Delta T of 35C, the "rule" works; if ya goal is to hit any ONE of those categories specifically, it's a massive fail.
> 
> What category does the "rule of thumb" put you in ?
> 
> -Well in a CPU only loop, you produce 140 watts of heat .... a UT60-240 at 1250 rpm gives ya 125 watts or 90% of the load ..... and yest it still doesn't manage to get ya OC'd Haswell down below 75C ???? Why is that ? Small surface area, poor heat transfer off the core to the water Block mostly due to poor HS. But clearly a Category 1 or 2 solution.
> 
> -Now we get to where the rule fails. I couldn't ask for a better example of this than the test data B Negative provided. We see a huge 35C temp rise here ! What we do see from all the system owners here is that GPU temps don't have the typical 45C spread to coolant temps we see with GPUs .... most often < 10C ..... Large surface area, excellent heat transfer from the GPU to water block due to direct contact. So our CPU loop was at worse a category 2, now this GPU one here that is Category 4 ..... that's why the rule falls apart.
> 
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU loop, ya looking at Category 2
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 1 Hi End GPU loop, ya looking somewhere between a category 2 and 3
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 2 Hi End 2 GPU loop, ya looking at category 3
> Use the rule of thumb on a CPU + 3 or 4 cards GPU loop, ya looking at Category 4
> 
> That's "not working" ..... it's certainly not worth the $1000 investment in water cooling that a person needs to make when doing a loop with 2 or more cards to wind up with temps just a bit better than air.
Click to expand...

Now this is where you fail,You are assuming that a 20-30c rise on load is bad, when its well within the operating temp of the card. You put these expectations upon it,no one else. Now what that guy has is an OC'ed rig and 3 cards on a 2 x 1000RPM fans.....MUCH quieter than 3 GPU blowers and 2 120's for the CPU on air with better temps.....for less than $1000,on what i would easily consider a very high end rig.

So it very much is working exactly as intended....with 360 worth less rad than the guide rule states. *** are the categories that you insist I conform to? Why do they have ANY relevance? There was no mention of aiming for Delta's, It was aimed at people like you that expect to have to use lots of rad for everything when clearly you dont.

The RoT works for mid to high end easily,its good compromise of silence and performance and has been proven in here time and time again,even members after that post,posted rigs using the RoT and getting great results,go back thru this thread and look for yourself. RL use>You sitting there saying a 480 rad isnt going to cool a pair of cards and a CPU when its been done...time after time...that tri sli rig has a delta temp of 22c under furmark,for much less rad that the RoT provides. Add it up to RoT and thats 540 worth of rad,if that rig doesnt hit 10c Delta (which is the standard aim) with a 540, I would be amazed.

According to you,that loop is a fail because it didnt hit a 10c delta,well guess what,HE WASNT AIMING FOR A 10c DELTA!,for him,that loop works as HE intended. What do you struggle with here? 10c or 30c under TJMax,doesnt matter,its still under.

More importantly,show me a rig where the RoT has not worked? Show me one where the temps are unacceptable?

Because i can post you a hundred where it is,not including the SFF builds with a highly OC'ed CPU and GPU all on a Phobya 200mm......









As for Haswell,no amount of rads will make up for the poor interface layer between the die and the IHS,delidding will gain you more temp loss than throwing more rad at it. Once delidded,it behaves no differently than IB.


----------



## Jakewat

Quick few questions to chuck out there since I'm on my phone.

first, the ek acetal 770 full cover block don't matter about in/ outlets do they?

what temp setting (300/ 600) should the heatgun be at for best acrylic results and is there a perfect height to hold?

finally, for a xspc d5 vario which is the best suited speed setting for, a st 240, ek xt 480, 1x 770 ek, 1x cpu ek and a 200x 50mm res?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Quick few questions to chuck out there since I'm on my phone.
> 
> first, the ek acetal 770 full cover block don't matter about in/ outlets do they?
> 
> what temp setting (300/ 600) should the heatgun be at for best acrylic results and is there a perfect height to hold?
> 
> finally, for a xspc d5 vario which is the best suited speed setting for, a st 240, ek xt 480, 1x 770 ek, 1x cpu ek and a 200x 50mm res?


Ok, answers in the order you asked them.

1. No, the ports don't matter, as long as the inlet and outlets aren't directly across from each other.

2. I am assuming that those temps your asking are in degrees Fahrenheit? If yes, then the 600 is what I would use, I run my heat gun at 500, since that's an available temp for my gun. If temps listed are centigrade, use the 300 setting. I hold the tubing between 5-6 inches above the heat gun.

3. I run my D5 variable speed pumps at full speed normally (setting 5)


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Does this help ?
> 
> http://s130.photobucket.com/user/4ryan6/media/FrontRad_zpsa94c212c.png.html


That helps a lot. 30mm, right? If it is, my plan is ready to go.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Pumps are in, entire loop is now installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is filling the loop and then wiring....
> 
> -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/


SPOILER]

all can say is symmetry!!!!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Some folks will complain if ya do two posts in a row..... don't understand the difference really.


Well, once again, it's simply good posting etiquette-why the multi button exists besides convenience-plus one space saving difference is I only see your sig once.

I am wondering if people generally use anti-corrosion additives? I thought biocide was really all I had to be concerned with for sure, provided I don't "mix metals" which as far as I know I had not done. But if there is any chance of the below happening again then... (so far it hasn't; I left that loops water way too long and it was off probably 65% of that time too tho).

(Again soaking this block in Pine Sol + distilled and also scrubbing totally saved it and I thought it was ruined for sure).


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Pumps are in, entire loop is now installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is filling the loop and then wiring....
> 
> -


I love your work on the actual motherboard and gpu. Not a huge fan of the hanging reservoirs on the right.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well, once again, it's simply good posting etiquette-why the multi button exists besides convenience-plus one space saving difference is I only see your sig once.
> 
> I am wondering if people generally use anti-corrosion additives? I thought biocide was really all I had to be concerned with for sure, provided I don't "mix metals" which as far as I know I had not done. But if there is any chance of the below happening again then... (so far it hasn't; I left that loops water way too long and it was off probably 65% of that time too tho).
> 
> (Again soaking this block in Pine Sol + distilled and also scrubbing totally saved it and I thought it was ruined for sure).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Were you using any dyes in your loop? that looks horrible good to hear you were able to salvage it, makes me paranoid as all I'm using is Distilled (small appliance safe on the label) and a Kill coil in my res. Any suggestions to prevent this from happening (have Swiftech MCP355 Pump, XSPC Raystorm block, Swiftech 120 & 240 rads).


----------



## kcuestag

Got my R9 290's under water, this is how it looks right now!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Looks like the tube coming from the GPU bridge to the bottom rad may be a tiny bit long to me. Still great looking build (though what ever happened to your RV02?).


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looks like the tube coming from the GPU bridge to the bottom rad may be a tiny bit long to me. Still great looking build (though what ever happened to your RV02?).


I tried a bit shorter but that was the best size for that turn. I soldthe RV02 a year ago, it was nice with that 3x180mm radiator but I really wanted more cooling capacity and more space.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skuli*
> 
> pr0n time... I'm not 100% done, but it's running now and visually very close.
> ...
> 
> I have a full cover glass top, but haven't figured out how to take photos of it without horrible reflection problems.


Looks good. If your camera can take it, you can use a polarizer filter on the front of the lens. Rotate it until the glare / reflections are tamed down.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Were you using any dyes in your loop? that looks horrible good to hear you were able to salvage it, makes me paranoid as all I'm using is Distilled (small appliance safe on the label) and a Kill coil in my res. Any suggestions to prevent this from happening (have Swiftech MCP355 Pump, XSPC Raystorm block, Swiftech 120 & 240 rads).


Negative. Nothing funky. Walgreens "Nice" brand distilled plus a kill coil. Possibly the coil was janky; it was pretty spent (tho just very well worn not green or anything else not right). I have used that distilled in other loops so don't think that was it. All I was running was the Apogee HD, an older XSPC pump/res combo and a single 120 ST30 in that mini-itx loop. The only new component to that build was the rad and white LRT plus a few new BP fittings. Again I left the water way too long without changing but damn that was bad, thick corrosion. And I did forget to flush that rad too but that shouldn't cause _this_.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Got my R9 290's under water, this is how it looks right now!


Looks great. Maybe this is a dumb question but how do/did you mount the pump and res? Just a custom bracket thing?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Looks great. Maybe this is a dumb question but how do/did you mount the pump and res? Just a custom bracket thing?


With the D5 Uni Holder that comes with the Reservoir/TOP kit.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ah sweet, did also occur to me it might come with it. See it was kind of a dumb question.


----------



## nismoskyline

So i took some "better" pictures of my rig, my inspiration was the digital storm hailstorm. tell me what you guys think







i think it's my best build so far but would like some feedback, anything i can improve on?











all comments/criticism is welcome


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well, once again, it's simply good posting etiquette-why the multi button exists besides convenience-plus one space saving difference is I only see your sig once.
> 
> I am wondering if people generally use anti-corrosion additives? I thought biocide was really all I had to be concerned with for sure, provided I don't "mix metals" which as far as I know I had not done. But if there is any chance of the below happening again then... (so far it hasn't; I left that loops water way too long and it was off probably 65% of that time too tho).
> 
> (Again soaking this block in Pine Sol + distilled and also scrubbing totally saved it and I thought it was ruined for sure).


I now ALWAYS use anti-corrosive. There is no way to not mix metals. Even if you run all copper blocks/rads, you still have brass fittings, & solder inside your rads.

I'm now using liquid utopia additive, no silver. Half a bottle per gallon, even though they say to use the whole bottle... (yes, it seems they are now diluting liquid utopia, so that nonsense about them copy/pasting the label is hogwash)


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Got my R9 290's under water, this is how it looks right now!


Looks great







Is that Mayhem's white?

Also, what temp gauge is that. I like it with the meter on there too and not just a number readout.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that Mayhem's white?
> 
> Also, what temp gauge is that. I like it with the meter on there too and not just a number readout.


Yeah, Mayhems Ice White Pastel, and the temperature gauge has no brand label but I believe it is a Phobya, not too sure.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> So i took some "better" pictures of my rig, my inspiration was the digital storm hailstorm.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> tell me what you guys think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think it's my best build so far but would like some feedback, anything i can improve on?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all comments/criticism is welcome


I would fill up the res as much as possible. Mostly for aesthetics. Condensation looks dirty (to my eyes)


----------



## smithers3628

Hey guys, I have read almost all of the 5000+ pages of this thread after a buddy convinced me watercooling was going to be fun. Well he was right and here I am several months later with my own rig under water.

First of all props to everyone who has posted in here, There are a ton of amazing builds and fantastic ideas in this thread and I appreciate all the help I was given just by reading this.

Finally the fun part, here are the current pictures I have of the rig (taken from crappy phone camera) while it didn't have water yet. I will be taking very nice pictures soon, but here she is for now.

Parts:

Corsair Air 540

FX-8150
XSPC Raystorm (Bracket Painted Purple)

Gigabyte GTX 670 2GB OC
Bitspower GTX680 Acrylic Black Top and Backplate

Black Ice Stealth 360

DDC
Bitspower Acrylic Black DDC Top

Monsoon Gold Open Center Compression Fittings

Phobya Balancer

PrimoChill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced

Distilled Water and Silver Coil

I wanted something different so I went with Purple and Gold for my colors. I have always loved the combination (not a Lakers or LSU fan tho), and since they are complimentary it worked out very well. With more of a budget it would have been new i7 4770k with an Asus gold mobo. Yellow cathodes are next to be purchased. The Corsair Air 540 caught my eye instantly. When I first saw it and knew I was going to buy it. I loved the dual chamber design and loved that the PSU was secluded. I came up with color choice, planned, and here is the result.

I present the Royal Flush:




This thing turned out to be GORGEOUS even with my terrible paint job.

Never been so excited to have a computer turn on and run properly. Leak tested and bled it over night. This thing rocks.


----------



## Jimhans1

@smithers3628

That's a fine looking build. Glad you made the dive into liquid cooling and that the forum was a benefit to you.

And, I don't want to nit-pick, but would it be possible to add gold or purple to that blue VRM heatsink, it kinda stands out there all by itself.


----------



## Skuli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithers3628*
> 
> Never been so excited to have a computer turn on and run properly. Leak tested and bled it over night. This thing rocks.


Grats on getting to this point. I just got there this weekend as well. It is a great feeling. I tried to explain to my wife the feeling I had last night and though she tried her best to be supportive, I know she didn't really understand why I was so excited.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithers3628*
> 
> Hey guys, I have read almost all of the 5000+ pages of this thread after a buddy convinced me watercooling was going to be fun. Well he was right and here I am several months later with my own rig under water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First of all props to everyone who has posted in here, There are a ton of amazing builds and fantastic ideas in this thread and I appreciate all the help I was given just by reading this.
> 
> Finally the fun part, here are the current pictures I have of the rig (taken from crappy phone camera) while it didn't have water yet. I will be taking very nice pictures soon, but here she is for now.
> 
> Parts:
> 
> Corsair Air 540
> 
> FX-8150
> XSPC Raystorm (Bracket Painted Purple)
> 
> Gigabyte GTX 670 2GB OC
> Bitspower GTX680 Acrylic Black Top and Backplate
> 
> Black Ice Stealth 360
> 
> DDC
> Bitspower Acrylic Black DDC Top
> 
> Monsoon Gold Open Center Compression Fittings
> 
> Phobya Balancer
> 
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced
> 
> Distilled Water and Silver Coil
> 
> I wanted something different so I went with Purple and Gold for my colors. I have always loved the combination (not a Lakers or LSU fan tho), and since they are complimentary it worked out very well. With more of a budget it would have been new i7 4770k with an Asus gold mobo. Yellow cathodes are next to be purchased. The Corsair Air 540 caught my eye instantly. When I first saw it and knew I was going to buy it. I loved the dual chamber design and loved that the PSU was secluded. I came up with color choice, planned, and here is the result.
> 
> I present the Royal Flush:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thing turned out to be GORGEOUS even with my terrible paint job.
> 
> 
> 
> Never been so excited to have a computer turn on and run properly. Leak tested and bled it over night. This thing rocks.


Interesting color scheme. Congrats and welcome to the club.


----------



## subsven

With all this talk of anti-corrosives and all that, is anybody just using distilled plus a little automotive grade antifreeze or am I the only one? Been running only this with nickle and copper and god knows what else for over a year now, and my oldest block, a Koolance 380i just looks a little "faded" on the inside, but everything else is good and clean. Also, my ambient temps sometimes do drop to 0c downstairs where my computer is during the winter, since I don't run the heat downstairs all night.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> With all this talk of anti-corrosives and all that, is anybody just using distilled plus a little automotive grade antifreeze or am I the only one? Been running only this with nickle and copper and god knows what else for over a year now, and my oldest block, a Koolance 380i just looks a little "faded" on the inside, but everything else is good and clean. Also, my ambient temps sometimes do drop to 0c downstairs where my computer is during the winter, since I don't run the heat downstairs all night.


I hear water wetter works well, but must be used in small doses as it can damage acrylic.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well, once again, it's simply good posting etiquette-why the multi button exists besides convenience-plus one space saving difference is I only see your sig once.
> 
> I am wondering if people generally use anti-corrosion additives? I thought biocide was really all I had to be concerned with for sure, provided I don't "mix metals" which as far as I know I had not done. But if there is any chance of the below happening again then... (so far it hasn't; I left that loops water way too long and it was off probably 65% of that time too tho).
> 
> (Again soaking this block in Pine Sol + distilled and also scrubbing totally saved it and I thought it was ruined for sure).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I use Mayhems Pastel mostly. Looks great, plus it has all of the biocides and anti-corrosives already in plus I am lazy so I like fluids that I can leave in without draining for 2-3 years. Performance-wise, I do not really notice any significant difference than pure water...maybe worst case 2C water difference, which is really not anything I notice. The X1 line also has all of the anti-corrosives and biocides, can be in-system without draining for 1-2 years and you can get colored or clear (if you don't like colored fluids). X1 performs pretty much the same as water such that you probably will not notice any difference


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I now ALWAYS use anti-corrosive. There is no way to not mix metals. Even if you run all copper blocks/rads, you still have brass fittings, & solder inside your rads.
> 
> I'm now using liquid utopia additive, no silver. Half a bottle per gallon, even though they say to use the whole bottle... (yes, it seems they are now diluting liquid utopia, so that nonsense about them copy/pasting the label is hogwash)


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithers3628*
> 
> Hey guys, I have read almost all of the 5000+ pages of this thread after a buddy convinced me watercooling was going to be fun. Well he was right and here I am several months later with my own rig under water.
> 
> Never been so excited to have a computer turn on and run properly. Leak tested and bled it over night. This thing rocks.


Impressive! Both your first build and the reading the whole thread part.







Someone was just asking for purple build examples the other day; think it was stick...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I use Mayhems Pastel mostly. Looks great, plus it has all of the biocides and anti-corrosives already in plus I am lazy so I like fluids that I can leave in without draining for 2-3 years.


Did not know that about Mayhems and was already considering some for next build. Actually he offered to send me a sample over on XS years ago when he was first starting out but then that never happened.


----------



## skupples

I'm getting ready to install my first tube res(always used bays) what are some wise accessories to use with it?


----------



## Lourad

What brand of res, where are you mounting it, are going to mount on a D5 or by itself.?


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah, Mayhems Ice White Pastel, and the temperature gauge has no brand label but I believe it is a Phobya, not too sure.


Ok, thank's. Where did you purchase it is what I should have asked I guess. fcpu?

All I can seem to find there is this style.



Edit- I see their temp sensors there but can't seem to find the gauge.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> What brand of res, where are you mounting it, are going to mount on a D5 or by itself.?


It's the 250 bitspower, being mounted on top of an MCP35x2 via male/male rotary. Going into a 900D, pump will sit flush with my mid plate.



It will be going where my Aquaero is currently sitting, & the aquaero will move to the front of the case.

I'm also thinking about adding in the motherboard VRM channel.


----------



## Jakewat

@Jimhans1
Thanks for the info. How does the d5 sound running at full, as i want the build to run reasonably quiet. Also the heat gun is in degrees Celsius and is like most standard heat guns, two settings high and low. I had previously practised a bend using high but i managed to get bubbles and then melt it a bit. I wasn't sure if this was due to my timing or the heat setting cooking it too fast.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Ok, thank's. Where did you purchase it is what I should have asked I guess. fcpu?
> 
> All I can seem to find there is this style.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit- I see their temp sensors there but can't seem to find the gauge.


XSPC makes those sensors I have one in my case to read air temps inthe case, and will get another for fluid soon.
Try PPC they might have them: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=28785


----------



## Rickles

To throw in my real world cooling experience with a pair of 7970s and a 2500k @ 1.4v

I've had 3 different setups

First


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







360mm + 240mm + 140mm + 140mm

Second


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







420mm + 240mm + 140mm

Third


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







240mm + 120mm + 160mm (the little 80mm x2)

And the difference in my gpu temps is within about 5c and the difference with my CPU temps is within about 10c from my third setup to the first 2, which were within about 3c as best as I could tell. Granted, I have push / pull on everything in the third setup and only had push or pull on the second.

And switching from a Switch 810 to a HAF xb has made mig rig so much more portable that the trade in temps (which are still way below tjmax) very worthwhile.

And man is that Haf XB crowded, and yet it fit all my stuff with no need for any modifications, apart from removing a hard drive cage.\

And I really need to paint my soundcard's shroud.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> XSPC makes those sensors I have one in my case to read air temps inthe case, and will get another for fluid soon.
> Try PPC they might have them: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=28785


You can splice or solder a temp sensor fitting to those very easily.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Ok, thank's. Where did you purchase it is what I should have asked I guess. fcpu?
> 
> All I can seem to find there is this style.
> 
> Edit- I see their temp sensors there but can't seem to find the gauge.


I bought it in Spain, here is a link to it in an UK Store: http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk/phobya-temperature-sensor-internal-external-g1-4-blue-display-71177.html

I don't know where you could buy it in the US since I don't live there.









Edit:

Nevermind, *DarthBaggins* found it two posts above.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> XSPC makes those sensors I have one in my case to read air temps inthe case, and will get another for fluid soon.
> Try PPC they might have them: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=28785


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I bought it in Spain, here is a link to it in an UK Store: http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk/phobya-temperature-sensor-internal-external-g1-4-blue-display-71177.html
> 
> I don't know where you could buy it in the US since I don't live there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Nevermind, *DarthBaggins* found it two posts above.


Right on thanks guys.

Edit- So it's not a liquid temp gauge just ambient air temp?


----------



## Valgaur

Hey guys been a while since I've been in here but I finally have the go ahead on a water build (been waiting long enough and thanks again OCN for choosing me for the Ultimate rig of November winner) I can get the parts....

BUT there's a problem I'm not really sure what to get.... thanks to benching I ahve mobo's a plenty and ivy and haswell as well just not sure what mobo combo to use really still need to ebnch my haswell stuff including the m6e mobo.

I want to do a nice build thats pretty yada yada to show my thanks.

I'm currently thinking dual 780's but for my case Cosmos 2 would seem to be a little empty to me atleast. any help on ideas for gpu's would be great I'm just uncertain what to put in it really...


----------



## DarthBaggins

There is an adapter for liquid temps


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> There is an adapter for liquid temps


Oh nice. Thanks


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithers3628*
> 
> Hey guys, I have read almost all of the 5000+ pages of this thread after a buddy convinced me watercooling was going to be fun. Well he was right and here I am several months later with my own rig under water.
> 
> First of all props to everyone who has posted in here, There are a ton of amazing builds and fantastic ideas in this thread and I appreciate all the help I was given just by reading this.
> 
> Finally the fun part, here are the current pictures I have of the rig (taken from crappy phone camera) while it didn't have water yet. I will be taking very nice pictures soon, but here she is for now.
> 
> Parts:
> 
> Corsair Air 540
> 
> FX-8150
> XSPC Raystorm (Bracket Painted Purple)
> 
> Gigabyte GTX 670 2GB OC
> Bitspower GTX680 Acrylic Black Top and Backplate
> 
> Black Ice Stealth 360
> 
> DDC
> Bitspower Acrylic Black DDC Top
> 
> Monsoon Gold Open Center Compression Fittings
> 
> Phobya Balancer
> 
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced
> 
> Distilled Water and Silver Coil
> 
> I wanted something different so I went with Purple and Gold for my colors. I have always loved the combination (not a Lakers or LSU fan tho), and since they are complimentary it worked out very well. With more of a budget it would have been new i7 4770k with an Asus gold mobo. Yellow cathodes are next to be purchased. The Corsair Air 540 caught my eye instantly. When I first saw it and knew I was going to buy it. I loved the dual chamber design and loved that the PSU was secluded. I came up with color choice, planned, and here is the result.
> 
> I present the Royal Flush:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thing turned out to be GORGEOUS even with my terrible paint job.
> 
> Never been so excited to have a computer turn on and run properly. Leak tested and bled it over night. This thing rocks.


That looks really nice, I love custom painted cases.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm getting ready to install my first tube res(always used bays) what are some wise accessories to use with it?


all you need to mount it comes on the box, you might also need a right angle fitting for the top.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> @Jimhans1
> Thanks for the info. How does the d5 sound running at full, as i want the build to run reasonably quiet. Also the heat gun is in degrees Celsius and is like most standard heat guns, two settings high and low. I had previously practised a bend using high but i managed to get bubbles and then melt it a bit. I wasn't sure if this was due to my timing or the heat setting cooking it too fast.


I've never found the D5's at full tilt to make much if any noise to be honest, but I'm not very sensitive to noise either.

And yeah, try the 300c setting, hold the tubing about 100-120mm from the heat gun nozzle and keep moving it around in the area to be heated to try and heat it evenly, I've found that once I feel the tube start to flex+10-15 seconds has worked best for me.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Ok, thank's. Where did you purchase it is what I should have asked I guess. fcpu?
> 
> All I can seem to find there is this style.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit- I see their temp sensors there but can't seem to find the gauge.


FCPU has other styles as well, but the price difference between those and the one you found might change your mind (it changed mine). Link


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithers3628*
> 
> Hey guys, I have read almost all of the 5000+ pages of this thread after a buddy convinced me watercooling was going to be fun. Well he was right and here I am several months later with my own rig under water.
> 
> First of all props to everyone who has posted in here, There are a ton of amazing builds and fantastic ideas in this thread and I appreciate all the help I was given just by reading this.
> 
> Finally the fun part, here are the current pictures I have of the rig (taken from crappy phone camera) while it didn't have water yet. I will be taking very nice pictures soon, but here she is for now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Parts:
> 
> Corsair Air 540
> 
> FX-8150
> XSPC Raystorm (Bracket Painted Purple)
> 
> Gigabyte GTX 670 2GB OC
> Bitspower GTX680 Acrylic Black Top and Backplate
> 
> Black Ice Stealth 360
> 
> DDC
> Bitspower Acrylic Black DDC Top
> 
> Monsoon Gold Open Center Compression Fittings
> 
> Phobya Balancer
> 
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced
> 
> Distilled Water and Silver Coil
> 
> I wanted something different so I went with Purple and Gold for my colors. I have always loved the combination (not a Lakers or LSU fan tho), and since they are complimentary it worked out very well. With more of a budget it would have been new i7 4770k with an Asus gold mobo. Yellow cathodes are next to be purchased. The Corsair Air 540 caught my eye instantly. When I first saw it and knew I was going to buy it. I loved the dual chamber design and loved that the PSU was secluded. I came up with color choice, planned, and here is the result.
> 
> I present the Royal Flush:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thing turned out to be GORGEOUS even with my terrible paint job.
> 
> Never been so excited to have a computer turn on and run properly. Leak tested and bled it over night. This thing rocks.


Nicely done sir!!







I'm loving them Monsoon fittings!


----------



## Adam182

Just about finished my first custom build everyone, heres 2 photos from my log...





- Adam


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Just about finished my first custom build everyone, heres 2 photos from my log...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


That's a work of art,i wouldn't even game on that thing....


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Just about finished my first custom build everyone, heres 2 photos from my log...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


Sweet build man! Been seeing some nice things done inside of this case here lately. The AX series rads fits the scheme nicely. Looking at this makes me want to go get an oreo blizzard!


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Just about finished my first custom build everyone, heres 2 photos from my log...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


Beautifully done!

You should join the Painted Hardware Club.


----------



## skupples

Thats pretty damned spotless for a first time build. Did you use vinyl dye for the POM wb pieces?

Do people recommend putting an on/off valve on the out take of tube reservoir?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Just about finished my first custom build everyone, heres 2 photos from my log...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


Wow, definitely had to go check out your log. That looks great.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes very impressive; I probably couldn't do anything like that on my 100th build (and with access to a shop or not lol).


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thats pretty damned spotless for a first time build. Did you use vinyl dye for the POM wb pieces?
> 
> Do people recommend putting an on/off valve on the out take of tube reservoir?


It'd probably be a good idea if you can manage to. I put a drain valve at the bottom of my front vertical rad, but water still hangs in the res. Noob issues..







I was thinking about adding another valve in there by the res.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Just about finished my first custom build everyone, heres 2 photos from my log...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


Good lord, that is beauty!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Just about finished my first custom build everyone, heres 2 photos from my log...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


This is your first build??? Absolutely epic!


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Just about finished my first custom build everyone, heres 2 photos from my log...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


For some reason, this reminds me of a mini fridge I had in my home office to keep a certain cold beverage in.









Very clean... Nice job.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Just about finished my first custom build everyone, heres 2 photos from my log...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


Wow, nice and clean.

And, your first PC build? Or your first PC Mod?


----------



## Anoxy

So my Primochill Advanced LRT has taken on a light yellow hue. I only used DI water and a silver killcoil. I'm thinking it's only the tubing though because my reservoir still looks fine.

Should I just let it be, or replace it?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So my Primochill Advanced LRT has taken on a light yellow hue. I only used DI water and a silver killcoil. I'm thinking it's only the tubing though because my reservoir still looks fine.
> 
> Should I just let it be, or replace it?


They do. Seen them on mine if I can take a proper picture of it. I have the clear EK CPU block and the Pastel Ice White shows white as it can be but if I compare the appearance from the block with the tube, the tube it is yellowish.

I fix this, get some bright white LEDs. Cold cathode lights.

-------

By the way this is my temp monitoring.

RAD 1 & 2 are water temperature stop fitting sensors. Pump at 2300 because that slider is not configured (didn't bother). It shows the tiny yellow bar at top which indicates 5000RPM on my hardware monitor.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> They do. Seen them on mine if I can take a proper picture of it. I have the clear EK CPU block and the Pastel Ice White shows white as it can be but if I compare the appearance from the block with the tube, the tube it is yellowish.
> 
> I fix this, get some bright white LEDs. Cold cathode lights.


Good to know, thanks.
I don't notice it when my window panel and case lights are on, but I just took it out to install a new PSU and noticed it under regular light. Oh well I guess.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> It'd probably be a good idea if you can manage to. I put a drain valve at the bottom of my front vertical rad, but water still hangs in the res. Noob issues..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about adding another valve in there by the res.


Due to the res i'm using I will have to put a Q-ball (4way) between the res & the pump... Will look into that tomorrow. As per usual, the bill goes up quickly.


----------



## Juthos




----------



## oelkanne

It say´s BITSPOWER









TAKE my MONEY


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wondering if these will be any cheaper than the ghost/revolver fittings....


----------



## SeeThruHead

I wish there was a good way to remove those logos.


----------



## JebusChytrus

Guys, I've just mounted aqua computer waterblock to my 780 but i have this little "bump" (around half milimeter) on pcb between ram and voltage regulators. There was a thread about this issue some time ago. Is it dangerous? Im not using backplate.


----------



## superericla

I got a better camera recently...


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Due to the res i'm using I will have to put a Q-ball (4way) between the res & the pump... Will look into that tomorrow. As per usual, the bill goes up quickly.


I know what you mean man. I started out on a budget build and slowly progressed into the wonderful world of water cooling. There's always something else to buy or something I forgot to get.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I wish there was a good way to remove those logos.


I believe I've seen a knock off brand of fittings that look like Bitspower fittings recently and they didn't have any logos on them.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I believe I've seen a knock off brand of fittings that look like Bitspower fittings recently and they didn't have any logos on them.


Yup, Barrow. I see them a lot on eBay from the seller "the-bestdealmarket." They don't actually have the Barrow name anywhere in the listing, but I'm pretty sure they are the Barrow fittings.

ModDIY also sells them

Not quite the selection of Bitspower, and right around the same price. I think I remember lowfat saying he's used them and quality is about the same as Bitspower.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I know what you mean man. I started out on a budget build and slowly progressed into the wonderful world of water cooling. There's always something else to buy or something I forgot to get.


It was hard for me to stay in budget on mine, but now that it's up and running I'm off budget lol


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I believe I've seen a knock off brand of fittings that look like Bitspower fittings recently and they didn't have any logos on them.


Barrow would be who you're thinking of!

Thanks - T


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I wish there was a good way to remove those logos.


There is... It's called ebay. Most of the fittings you find there are exactly identical to Bitspower's. Only without the logo. I got my rotaries for pennies on the dollar, and they were delivered to my doorstep in 2 days!!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380812052634


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I got a better camera recently...


Purple huh? When did you ditch the copper?


----------



## morencyam

I actually tried removing the logo from a leaking Bitspower fitting it had laying around. I tried all kinds of chemicals. Xylol Xylene, Acetone, MEK, Denatured Alcohol and nothing worked. I even tried an Aircraft Coating Remover called Tal-Strip, and all that did was take the black finish off and left the logo. So I don't know how they put that logo on there, but it sure isn't coming off. Not too upset since I couldn't use that fitting anyway.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Purple huh? When did you ditch the copper?


It's been a few months now. I checked out B Negative's acrylic bending guide after he had first made it, considered acrylic for a while until Primochill released their fittings and acrylic tubing and went for it. I think it was around October?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I actually tried removing the logo from a leaking Bitspower fitting it had laying around. I tried all kinds of chemicals. Xylol Xylene, Acetone, MEK, Denatured Alcohol and nothing worked. I even tried an Aircraft Coating Remover called Tal-Strip, and all that did was take the black finish off and left the logo. So I don't know how they put that logo on there, but it sure isn't coming off. Not too upset since I couldn't use that fitting anyway.


I'm not sure about the new ones, but some of my older BP fittings are engraved/(lasered?) into the powder coat.


----------



## Valgaur

Hey guys I am curious about some color options with my build coming up that I will be watercooling in this case



I'm thinking about pastel green and black with frosted acrylic

also an all blacked out build with mayhems oil black liquid

Might throw some orange in that all black idea so everything doesn't just dissapear or do you guys think the all black would look good? i would still have frosted acrylic in that as well.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm not sure about the new ones, but some of my older BP fittings are engraved/(lasered?) into the powder coat.


That could be. But after it took off the black finish, the logo was a different color than the bare brass that was exposed. Who knows. All I know is that the logo is basically permanent


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hey guys I am curious about some color options with my build coming up that I will be watercooling in this case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about pastel green and black with frosted acrylic
> 
> also an all blacked out build with mayhems oil black liquid
> 
> Might throw some orange in that all black idea so everything doesn't just dissapear or do you guys think the all black would look good? i would still have frosted acrylic in that as well.


Have you narrowed down what hardware you think you might be putting into it? I think the pastel green is a fantastic idea! Love green!! All black would be good also. Maybe use silver or black chrome fittings for the all black theme.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I know what you mean man. I started out on a budget build and slowly progressed into the wonderful world of water cooling. There's always something else to buy or something I forgot to get.


Don't I know it. Discovering this thread last month hasn't helped lol. My loop needed an upgrade anyway after years even if I hadn't recently got my first GPU with block. My rig will end up being down for almost a month as I wait for this or that to arrive but hey BF4 is broken still anyway and I got plenty of non-tech stuff I have to do as well. Its actually been a nice break from gaming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yup, Barrow. I see them a lot on eBay from the seller "the-bestdealmarket." They don't actually have the Barrow name anywhere in the listing, but I'm pretty sure they are the Barrow fittings.
> 
> ModDIY also sells them
> 
> Not quite the selection of Bitspower, and right around the same price. I think I remember lowfat saying he's used them and quality is about the same as Bitspower.


Yeah I got a 45 and a 90 adapter on the way. Some of their stuff is also on auction and that's the way the get the lowest price I've found as I've been the only bidder. Two end plugs for $5 shipped, for example.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I actually tried removing the logo from a leaking Bitspower fitting it had laying around. I tried all kinds of chemicals. Xylol Xylene, Acetone, MEK, Denatured Alcohol and nothing worked. I even tried an Aircraft Coating Remover called Tal-Strip, and all that did was take the black finish off and left the logo. So I don't know how they put that logo on there, but it sure isn't coming off. Not too upset since I couldn't use that fitting anyway.


Wow. Well I too am not a fan of excessive branding but I do at least kinds like the BP logo. Agreed they overdo it though. But there is worse; I think the ET 45's with "ENZO" written across them look horrendous, for example.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Don't I know it. Discovering this thread last month hasn't helped lol. My loop needed an upgrade anyway after years even if I hadn't recently got my first GPU with block. My rig will end up being down for almost a month as I wait for this or that to arrive but hey BF4 is broken still anyway and I got plenty of non-tech stuff I have to do as well. Its actually been a nice break from gaming.


I use my computer way too much to have it down, even for a day. (work, school, gaming) My last build was done and leak tested for 1.5 hours in about 6 hours.

The drawback is I really don't have time to mod, or want to make time to mod, so I am mostly stuck with looking at stock parts..


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Have you narrowed down what hardware you think you might be putting into it? I think the pastel green is a fantastic idea! Love green!! All black would be good also. Maybe use silver or black chrome fittings for the all black theme.


I will be using 4770K (probably direct die naked mount) ((not sure since it might get benched more on LN2)) then 3 280x's 80mm admiral rad in basement and ut60 360 rad up top. and for mobo m6e.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Wow. Well I too am not a fan of excessive branding but I do at least kinds like the BP logo. Agreed they overdo it though. But there is worse; I think the ET 45's with "ENZO" written across them look horrendous, for example.


I was just trying to remove it out of curiosity mostly. And another user asked if there was a way to remove it. And like I said, I was never going to be able to use it anyway since it leaked, so at least it wasn't a total waste. Now I know for the future.

But yeah, those "ENZO" logos are awful. I don't buy them mostly for that reason. Branding is becoming a bit too excessive. I always like XSPC compression fittings because they were cheap and good quality, but I don't like these new ones coming out that have the "XSPC" logo across the middle


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I will be using 4770K (probably direct die naked mount) ((not sure since it might get benched more on LN2)) then 3 280x's 80mm admiral rad in basement and ut60 360 rad up top. and for mobo m6e.


that seems like an absurd amount of rad space.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> that seems like an absurd amount of rad space.


3 280x's and 4770K on full load though?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> that seems like an absurd amount of rad space.


This is OCN. There is no such thing as "absurd amount of rad space"









That is a lot though. I heard that the Admiral Radiators did horrible in testing compared to other radiators. And in Bart's "Old Man" build, one of the threaded inserts were coming out when he put the fans on
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Yet another pacakge from Dazmode.com landed. God how I love receiving packages from Daz. Every delivery is like Christmas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a long one, even longer than the pedestal. What could it be I wonder?
> 
> http://s445.photobucket.com/user/Ba... Labs M8 build/756_small_zpseef6e6e5.jpg.html
> 
> 360 rad #4, the TFC Admiral 360, in red.
> 
> http://s445.photobucket.com/user/Ba... Labs M8 build/757_small_zps64c49580.jpg.html
> 
> Initial impression: sexier than most supermodels!
> 
> http://s445.photobucket.com/user/Ba... Labs M8 build/759_small_zpsf327c0fe.jpg.html
> 
> What a sweet finish!
> 
> http://s445.photobucket.com/user/Ba...abs M8 build/761_small_r_zps6b0c96d1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s445.photobucket.com/user/Ba... Labs M8 build/762_small_zps18596c49.jpg.html
> 
> http://s445.photobucket.com/user/Ba... Labs M8 build/763_small_zps25dd983f.jpg.html
> 
> I noticed when I bought my Triebwerk fans that they came with an extra set of large threaded screws. Until now I had no use for those, but they appear to be M4 threads, matching the Admiral perfectly:
> 
> http://s445.photobucket.com/user/Ba... Labs M8 build/764_small_zps4866669e.jpg.html
> 
> Operation Triebwerk Fans is a-go!
> 
> http://s445.photobucket.com/user/Ba... Labs M8 build/765_small_zps5a064e35.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Or is it? While test fitting one of the fans, the screw receptacle thingy popped right out. DOH! Now I can't get this screw out for the life of me!! Grrrrr, and things were going so well!
> 
> http://s445.photobucket.com/user/Ba... Labs M8 build/766_small_zpsd17d6a98.jpg.html
> 
> That thing popped out VERY easily, so I don't have much faith in these things. But I'll see if I can work with this. That screw needs to come out first, and that is proving to be a challenge. I am NOT impressed with those screw hole inserts. They seem VERY flimsy. Love the rest of the rad, but not loving those inserts.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hey guys I am curious about some color options with my build coming up that I will be watercooling in this case
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about pastel green and black with frosted acrylic
> 
> also an all blacked out build with mayhems oil black liquid
> 
> Might throw some orange in that all black idea so everything doesn't just dissapear or do you guys think the all black would look good? i would still have frosted acrylic in that as well.


I did a build in one of those for a customer......hateful case that is a PITA to work on,the doors are a dog to make a window for and there is way too much plastic.....


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This is OCN. There is no such thing as "absurd amount of rad space"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a lot though. I heard that the Admiral Radiators did horrible in testing compared to other radiators. And in Bart's "Old Man" build, one of the threaded inserts were coming out when he put the fans on


I'll keep that in mind if not I'll just grab alphacools 80mm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did a build in one of those for a customer......hateful case that is a PITA to work on,the doors are a dog to make a window for and there is way too much plastic.....


I agree Neg pain in the butt but I'm gonna try a build to fill it up and since my side panel is missing anyways (long story) i can look in it all the time now


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> that seems like an absurd amount of rad space.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> 3 280x's and 4770K on full load though?


You missed the discussion about rule-of-thumb. You need exactly 5x120 rad to cool that, no more and no less


----------



## Rickles

Good thing he has 140mm x 6 and 120mm x 3 then..

According to my calculations that should get him -10c below ambient dissipating 400 watts of heat.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I'll keep that in mind if not I'll just grab alphacools 80mm


I definitely say grab the AC Monsta's. They are known to be great performers and high quality. Plus, they are $40 cheaper than the Admirals on FCPU
Admiral
Monsta
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You missed the discussion about rule-of-thumb. You need exactly 5x120 rad to cool that, no more and no less


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Good thing he has 140mm x 6 and 120mm x 3 then..
> 
> According to my calculations that should get him -10c below ambient dissipating 400 watts of heat.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I use my computer way too much to have it down, even for a day. (work, school, gaming) My last build was done and leak tested for 1.5 hours in about 6 hours.
> 
> The drawback is I really don't have time to mod, or want to make time to mod, so I am mostly stuck with looking at stock parts..


Yeah that's why I have a laptop. Also my server box. It's really just a break from gaming which I wold not have chosen but hasn't been so bad.

And I don't really mod mainly out of lack of experience and no access to a workshop (I don't even know any other people into liquid cooling irl much less modding). Time would be an issue as well I guess though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> that seems like an absurd amount of rad space.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> 3 280x's and 4770K on full load though?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You missed the discussion about rule-of-thumb. You need exactly 5x120 rad to cool that, *no more and no less*
Click to expand...

Thats not what was said tho was it?


----------



## velocityx

guys is there a difference between acetal and acetal + nickel blocks? like is there a limitation between what fluids I can use?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You missed the discussion about rule-of-thumb. You need exactly 5x120 rad to cool that, no more and no less


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Good thing he has 140mm x 6 and 120mm x 3 then..
> 
> According to my calculations that should get him -10c


That's what I want!







should I go soft or rigid tubing... In up for either just not sure which one


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> guys is there a difference between acetal and acetal + nickel blocks? like is there a limitation between what fluids I can use?


If specidied as only acetal, it means the blocks are copper and there is no nickel plating on top. Treat them equally, but maybe it would be wiser to not have silver in your loop with nickel plating in case you are using products from Koolance.


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If specidied as only acetal, it means the blocks are copper and there is no nickel plating on top. Treat them equally, but maybe it would be wiser to not have silver in your loop with nickel plating in case you are using products from Koolance.


thx, no i'm planning my first wc build, want to get ek 290 blocks and they have acetal and acetal+ nickel version so I thought I can use more fluids with the nickel version versus acetal only. gonna use clear dp ultra fluid.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> guys is there a difference between acetal and acetal + nickel blocks? like is there a limitation between what fluids I can use?


It depends, most blocks that have acetal the metal components are copper or nickel plated copper. Some manufacturers have exceptions on the warranty if you mix metals and certain fluids but it depends on the manufacturer. Without knowing what blocks you are talking about it is hard to tell. But honestly as long as you have biocide and perhaps a corrosion inhibitor you should be fine.


----------



## djriful

Is Pressure Equalization fitting even needed due to temperature changes in the loop? Just asking if I ever need one.

http://goo.gl/ixhS5w


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> That's what I want!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should I go soft or rigid tubing... In up for either just not sure which one


If you want sub ambient spend the $50 to build one of those real nice looking 4 inch PVC bongs strapped to the top of a cooler.










You also get the soothing sounds of water pouring into a bucket.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah chicks dig it!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New white D5 top.

BP-D5TOPPS-WH Bitspower D5 MOD TOP (White "S" Model)

Features:

1. Design For Universal D5/MCP655 MOD KIT.

2. G1/4" Out-Let x2 ; 1/4" In-Let x3.

3. Best CNC Machined Surface.

4. RoHS Compliant.

Included :

1. D5/MCP655 MOD TOP "S" X 1PCS.

2. M4*6 MM Screw X 4PCS.

3. G1/4" Matt Black Low-Profile Stop Fitting X 3PCS.





Not sure if this has been posted yet.....


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I know I'm going to get some flack for this, but in a bit of creative inspiration last night, I decided to paint one of my nickel blocks. After the "hangover", I realized it probably would have been easier to get a black adhesive film to put on it instead. In fact, I may end up doing just that. BTW - I already posted this in the "paint your hardware" forum.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1864.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1868.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1869.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1872.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1873.jpg.html


----------



## nepToon

Just got done with cable management, custom wires marked as a future project.
Cleaning and refill with red coolant for the glamour shots coming soon. Rigid acrylic ftw =)
Happy with the result for my first rigid acrylic tubing experience.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New white D5 top.
> 
> BP-D5TOPPS-WH Bitspower D5 MOD TOP (White "S" Model)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Features:
> 
> 1. Design For Universal D5/MCP655 MOD KIT.
> 
> 2. G1/4" Out-Let x2 ; 1/4" In-Let x3.
> 
> 3. Best CNC Machined Surface.
> 
> 4. RoHS Compliant.
> 
> Included :
> 
> 1. D5/MCP655 MOD TOP "S" X 1PCS.
> 
> 2. M4*6 MM Screw X 4PCS.
> 
> 3. G1/4" Matt Black Low-Profile Stop Fitting X 3PCS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if this has been posted yet.....


White really isn't my thing, but that looks real nice.
Is it just me or does something look off about those two plug fittings on the top in the second picture? Looks like it like it could be photoshopped to me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I know I'm going to get some flack for this, but in a bit of creative inspiration last night, I decided to paint one of my nickel blocks. After the "hangover", I realized it probably would have been easier to get a black adhesive film to put on it instead. In fact, I may end up doing just that. BTW - I already posted this in the "paint your hardware" forum.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1864.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1868.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1869.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1872.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1873.jpg.html


I think the black looks so much better around the edges than the nickle. Hopefully you don't run into a problem with paint chips flaking off and getting into the coolant. But it looks like coolant never comes into contact with any of the areas you painted. Nice work


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> White really isn't my thing, but that looks real nice.
> Is it just me or does something look off about those two plug fittings on the top in the second picture? Looks like it like it could be photoshopped to me


Had this been available at the time, would you have used this for your white and copper customer build?


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New white D5 top.
> 
> BP-D5TOPPS-WH Bitspower D5 MOD TOP (White "S" Model)
> 
> Features:
> 
> 1. Design For Universal D5/MCP655 MOD KIT.
> 
> 2. G1/4" Out-Let x2 ; 1/4" In-Let x3.
> 
> 3. Best CNC Machined Surface.
> 
> 4. RoHS Compliant.
> 
> Included :
> 
> 1. D5/MCP655 MOD TOP "S" X 1PCS.
> 
> 2. M4*6 MM Screw X 4PCS.
> 
> 3. G1/4" Matt Black Low-Profile Stop Fitting X 3PCS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if this has been posted yet.....


Dont think on here but was on OCN. Ill be getting it once I build a new computer. White and red theme


----------



## Anoxy

Arrrgghhh all these new product photos are making me want to build an entirely new rig! Must. Stop. Coming. Here.

That avatar is literally my face every time I come here.


----------



## darwing

Lookie what I got in the mail today





















its for watercooling my 420 rads


----------



## Anoxy

Oh while I'm in here oogling at all your new stuff, can somebody give me a bit of advice?

Currently this is my config.


I want to swap out the rear fan because it's an ugly Noctua, but I'm not sure if I should just remove it altogether, or get something super powerful to pull some of that intake out.
I was thinking of getting a NB BlackSilentPro PK-3....not sure though


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New white D5 top.
> 
> BP-D5TOPPS-WH Bitspower D5 MOD TOP (White "S" Model)
> 
> Features:
> 
> 1. Design For Universal D5/MCP655 MOD KIT.
> 
> 2. G1/4" Out-Let x2 ; 1/4" In-Let x3.
> 
> 3. Best CNC Machined Surface.
> 
> 4. RoHS Compliant.
> 
> Included :
> 
> 1. D5/MCP655 MOD TOP "S" X 1PCS.
> 
> 2. M4*6 MM Screw X 4PCS.
> 
> 3. G1/4" Matt Black Low-Profile Stop Fitting X 3PCS.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if this has been posted yet.....


Makes me wanna switch back to a D5 just to buy that top.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I know I'm going to get some flack for this, but in a bit of creative inspiration last night, I decided to paint one of my nickel blocks. After the "hangover", I realized it probably would have been easier to get a black adhesive film to put on it instead. In fact, I may end up doing just that. BTW - I already posted this in the "paint your hardware" forum.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the black looks so much better around the edges than the nickle. Hopefully you don't run into a problem with paint chips flaking off and getting into the coolant. But it looks like coolant never comes into contact with any of the areas you painted. Nice work
Click to expand...

Actually, paint inside the contour of the rubber seal ring are going to be in contact with the liquid. You shouldn't have paint in those part inside the rubber seal. Liquids are going to sip into those part where it seem to be touching the acrylic within the rubber seal.

I know because my pastel ice white mayhem liquid are showing up in those area.


----------



## kpoeticg

Has anybody heard if the Monsoon Hardline's are still set for this week?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Has anybody heard if the Monsoon Hardline's are still set for this week?


Not sure, I stopped looking into them due to needing to glue the adapters to the end of the tubing. I'm sure they will look nice, but seems that it's kind of a pain and mostly unnecessary in most builds


----------



## kpoeticg

I've never heard that. I knew they're supposed to come out with a more industrial version that you were supposed to be able to hang like a 30 pound weight from (or whatever it was). Never heard about the glue though...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Actually, paint inside the contour of the rubber seal ring are going to be in contact with the liquid. You shouldn't have paint in those part inside the rubber seal. Liquids are going to sip into those part where it seem to be touching the acrylic within the rubber seal.
> 
> I know because my pastel ice white mayhem liquid are showing up in those area.


This project wasn't overly difficult to do, so I'll probably remove the paint and find a black film with an adhesive backing. I'm also pretty good with an Xacto blade, so I'll give it a try, then run some tests to see if any coolant bleeds into the area beyond the rubber seal. If so, then I'll just clean it up and restore the block back to its original state No harm, no foul... Just trial and error experience. Besides, fortune favors the brave and the bold.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've never heard that. I knew they're supposed to come out with a more industrial version that you were supposed to be able to hang like a 30 pound weight from (or whatever it was). Never heard about the glue though...


Yeah, it's a UV reactive adhesive inside the little adapter piece that gets installed on the tubing end prior to assembly with the fitting base.

Take a look at the videos B- put up in the OP, I believe it's talked about in one of them if memory serves.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Man I am tiring of white kinda but that is nice top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Arrrgghhh all these new product photos are making me want to build an entirely new rig! Must. Stop. Coming. Here.
> 
> That avatar is literally my face every time I come here.


Haha totally.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did a build in one of those for a customer......hateful case that is a PITA to work on,the doors are a dog to make a window for and there is way too much plastic.....


I had the same experience. Really hate that case. Especially the ridiculous amount of wires that are built in.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yeah, it's a UV reactive adhesive inside the little adapter piece that gets installed on the tubing end prior to assembly with the fitting base.
> 
> Take a look at the videos B- put up in the OP, I believe it's talked about in one of them if memory serves.


Didn't he say that the "Hard-Lock" version with the acrylic collar was an optional version or additional security? It doesn't seem like the fittings are reliant on the Lock-Collar.

That's a good point though, especially since i've been waiting on the Harline's. I have the video downloaded on my HD, but i must've skipped over the part last time about having to glue that on.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Agreed that the Cosmos 2 is a PITA to work on but its still a great looking case IMO...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Didn't he say that the "Hard-Lock" version with the acrylic collar was an optional version or additional security? It doesn't seem like the fittings are reliant on the Lock-Collar.
> 
> That's a good point though, especially since i've been waiting on the Harline's. I have the video downloaded on my HD, but i must've skipped over the part last time about having to glue that on.


Without the collar, how would the tubing stay in???


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> That's what I want!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should I go soft or rigid tubing... In up for either just not sure which one


Soft tubing would be easier/quicker. Rigid tubing looks great with nice bends and runs, but may cost more to put it all together. My first water cooling endeavor I dove straight into acrylic tubing. If you do choose rigid tubing, be sure to buy more than you need so you have extra to practice with.







I bought extra and still ended up ordering more.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Without the collar, how would the tubing stay in???


How does it stay in with all other acrylic builds?








That's what i mean, in the video he says they're releasing a regular version which i'm guessing works the same as all other acrylic setups & they're releasing the version with Hard-Lock for people that want "Mission-Critical Reliability"


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Soft tubing would be easier/quicker. Rigid tubing looks great with nice bends and runs, but may cost more to put it all together. My first water cooling endeavor I dove straight into acrylic tubing. If you do choose rigid tubing, be sure to buy more than you need so you have extra to practice with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought extra and still ended up ordering more.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is it just me, or is that pump oriented the wrong way?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Is it just me, or is that pump oriented the wrong way?


I don't think it's just you...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Is it just me, or is that pump oriented the wrong way?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> I don't think it's just you...


Yeah, definitely the wrong way. But he also hadn't connected the final tube yet, so hopefully he changed it before turning on the pump


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yeah, definitely the wrong way. But he also hadn't connected the final tube yet, so hopefully he changed it before turning on the pump


I was planning on putting a tube inside of the res to draw water upward. Not sure if I'm going to go that route though. I'll most likely flip around. Just waiting on my order of tubing to arrive so I can complete the loop. Nice observation btw!


----------



## skupples

The mail brings great things! Just not my RMA from EK, because it takes over a week to leave the sort facility when going international I guess...

These awesome pieces of acrylic were laser cut by OCN Member LebestiaHumanaX!
Left: Drive bay cover... Middle: Aquaero side & top pieces Right: cover for the 120.2 hole in the back of the 900D.

motherboard shroud.


Not quite sure why the images are so blurry. Still working on learning the ins & outs of this Finepix 8500 camera. I may end up returning it for a slightly higher end model, with detachable lenses.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Oh while I'm in here oogling at all your new stuff, can somebody give me a bit of advice?
> 
> Currently this is my config.
> 
> 
> I want to swap out the rear fan because it's an ugly Noctua, but I'm not sure if I should just remove it altogether, or get something super powerful to pull some of that intake out.
> I was thinking of getting a NB BlackSilentPro PK-3....not sure though


My setup is somewhat similar to yours,top/bottom intake (rads) and 140mm exhausting the hot air....I would definitely opt for the NB PK-3 to replace the noctua,also it would match your colour scheme alot better....


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The mail brings great things! Just not my RMA from EK, because it takes over a week to leave the sort facility when going international I guess...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> These awesome pieces of acrylic were laser cut by OCN Member LebestiaHumanaX!
> Left: Drive bay cover... Middle: Aquaero side & top pieces Right: cover for the 120.2 hole in the back of the 900D.
> 
> motherboard shroud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not quite sure why the images are so blurry. Still working on learning the ins & outs of this Finepix 8500 camera. I may end up returning it for a slightly higher end model, with detachable lenses.


Sweet! I've been contemplating this idea for my rig.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I was planning on putting a tube inside of the res to draw water upward. Not sure if I'm going to go that route though. I'll most likely flip around. Just waiting on my order of tubing to arrive so I can complete the loop. Nice observation btw!


Not too sure it works that way. The res would have to be completely void of any air for that to work properly. Just rotate the pump and let gravity do it''s thing.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not too sure it works that way. The res would have to be completely void of any air for that to work properly. Just rotate the pump and let gravity do it''s thing.


I was afraid of this. Just thought about testing it out for the heck of it, but realistically it doesn't seem feasible.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yup, Barrow. I see them a lot on eBay from the seller "the-bestdealmarket." They don't actually have the Barrow name anywhere in the listing, but I'm pretty sure they are the Barrow fittings.
> 
> ModDIY also sells them
> 
> Not quite the selection of Bitspower, and right around the same price. I think I remember lowfat saying he's used them and quality is about the same as Bitspower.


I'm using them as well and they sell on PPC's and FCPU as well, they look identical to the BP's.



Also something Skupples brought up earlier I wanted to ask on. I'm currently only running Distilled + Dead water in my loop. Should I add anything else or am I good to go ? All copper and probably brass fittings.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

They do? I certainly have never seen them at our usual retailers and just rechecked PPCs. Not in "Misc Fittings"…?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> They do? I certainly have never seen them at our usual retailers and just rechecked PPCs. Not in "Misc Fittings"&#8230;?


I haven't noticed em on PPC yet, but they got added in FCPU at the end of December. If you click New Products, then Decemebr you'll see em. Don't know if they added em to the regular sections yet.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22546/ex-tub-2536/Barrow_G_14_Retractable_Connector_22_-_31mm_-_Black.html

They also carry Barrow Female Threaded Acrylic Tubes, added about the same time

http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p5/201401/NewProducts-Page5.html?o=add_desc

^^First page of the January section


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ah well best deal has a pretty varied selection plus as I said earlier you can get them relatively cheap if you manage to win an auction with few bids.


----------



## skupples

I hate to sound like a cry baby but... I received my RMA today from EK. The package is all wrong. Sajn had agreed to send me back Copper blocks as the replacement, but everything is nickel. ALL nickel CPU & new nickel plates for my POM tops. They also told me that new O-rings would be supplied, but those didn't seem to make it into the box either. So! After a month long RMA process I have to start all over!
















These blocks are intended for re-sale as I purchased all new blocks 5 weeks ago, as I knew this would take for ever, but I can't sell the new blocks without new O-rings.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Crap like that is one of the worst things about this hobby.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I hate to sound like a cry baby but... I received my RMA today from EK. The package is all wrong. Sajn had agreed to send me back Copper blocks as the replacement, but everything is nickel. ALL nickel CPU & new nickel plates for my POM tops. They also told me that new O-rings would be supplied, but those didn't seem to make it into the box either. So! After a month long RMA process I have to start all over!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These blocks are intended for re-sale as I purchased all new blocks 5 weeks ago, as I knew this would take for ever, but I can't sell the new blocks without new O-rings.


Skupps just think of my bad luck lately and wermad's and you'll feel better about the situation a bit









Other than that hopefully (and they SHOULD) turn around and expedite a new batch to you due to negligence.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Skupps just think of my bad luck lately and wermad's and you'll feel better about the situation a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other than that hopefully (and they SHOULD) turn around and expedite a new batch to you due to negligence.


I'm sure... I bet the first package, which was lost in the mail over the holidays contains the proper blocks! I don't even really care about the blocks being nickel, as i'm re-selling them. I just can't re-use the old O-rings in good conscious & still charge close to full price.

I'm also curious as how i'm supposed to send back the defective products w/o a return label or anything...


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> They do? I certainly have never seen them at our usual retailers and just rechecked PPCs. Not in "Misc Fittings"&#8230;?


These are Bitspower branded, but they don't have the logo on them.



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1149&products_id=35668


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Skupps just think of my bad luck lately and wermad's and you'll feel better about the situation a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other than that hopefully (and they SHOULD) turn around and expedite a new batch to you due to negligence.


lol they are not Amazon, you got the option to send it back first and then they send you the right stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm sure... I bet the first package, which was lost in the mail over the holidays contains the proper blocks! I don't even really care about the blocks being nickel, as i'm re-selling them. I just can't re-use the old O-rings in good conscious & still charge close to full price.
> 
> I'm also curious as how i'm supposed to send back the defective products w/o a return label or anything...


Just send an email to their customer service dept, they are usually nice guys. They also have a rep here (Philly) who might be able to accelerate the process.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm sure... I bet the first package, which was lost in the mail over the holidays contains the proper blocks! I don't even really care about the blocks being nickel, as i'm re-selling them. I just can't re-use the old O-rings in good conscious & still charge close to full price.
> 
> I'm also curious as how i'm supposed to send back the defective products w/o a return label or anything...


Damn that really sucks. Sorry to hear that. You could always pick up some new O-rings from a hardware store. Just take an O-ring you already have with you to match up the size or bring the part that needs the O-ring with you to the store.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> We have our own code for FCPU; it's OCN (5.1% off). I've used it 6 times this year - works every time


I thot he wanted "other than OCN"....or was he looking for other than the OCN one for PPCs ? If so my bad


----------



## kpoeticg

It doesn't matter which code you use from a consumer perspective. The popular forums have their own codes, all with the same discount, and you can only use one of them per order.

From an OCN perspective, i don't know the politics, but i'm sure it's good for OCN when resellers know their customers are OCN Community Members


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I hate to sound like a cry baby but... I received my RMA today from EK. The package is all wrong. Sajn had agreed to send me back Copper blocks as the replacement, but everything is nickel. ALL nickel CPU & new nickel plates for my POM tops. They also told me that new O-rings would be supplied, but those didn't seem to make it into the box either. So! After a month long RMA process I have to start all over!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These blocks are intended for re-sale as I purchased all new blocks 5 weeks ago, as I knew this would take for ever, but I can't sell the new blocks without new O-rings.


That sucks, they sent me everything right and right away. I guess EK doesn't like you


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

The PPCS 5% code is "ocn55" works every time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I thot he wanted "other than OCN"....or was he looking for other than the OCN one for PPCs ? If so my bad


----------



## stickg1

Okay, so it's 23C in my PC room. Folding on my GPU my water temps are 33.3C according to my newly installed XSPC temp display hooked up to my BP G1/4" temp sensor plug. Does that mean I'm in good shape?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay, so it's 23C in my PC room. Folding on my GPU my water temps are 33.3C according to my newly installed XSPC temp display hooked up to my BP G1/4" temp sensor plug. Does that mean I'm in good shape?


Looks like a Delta T of 10 or so, so yeah, if your happy with it. if you thought it would be less, then no.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> The PPCS *5.5%* code is "ocn55" works every time.


FTFY















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay, so it's 23C in my PC room. Folding on my GPU my water temps are 33.3C according to my newly installed XSPC temp display hooked up to my BP G1/4" temp sensor plug. Does that mean I'm in good shape?


Yeah, I'd say you're in good shape. Out of curiosity, what's the water temp when everything is idle?


----------



## stickg1

My PC doesn't really idle because I fold 24/7 in Team Competition.

I'll idle for 20 minutes and check it out.

After about 15 minutes it went from 34C to 26C, 23C ambient.

Not going to idle any longer.


----------



## boxx2carey

swapped out the ol' hd6950's last month with an sapphire r9 290x. finally got around to taking a few pics of the 290x under water, using the XSPC Razor block. oc'ed to 1200/1460.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My PC doesn't really idle because I fold 24/7 in Team Competition.
> 
> I'll idle for 20 minutes and check it out.
> 
> After about 15 minutes it went from 34C to 26C, 23C ambient.
> 
> Not going to idle any longer.


8c difference between idle and load, that's quite a good delta. Especially load.


----------



## stickg1

Cool, because I was thinking of getting more rad space but it seems like what I have is working fine. Not totally in love with my layout but I have more fittings and adapters coming so maybe I can clean it up. I moved the 240mm up front and the 120 HTFS2 up top. It looks kind of stupid but it's the best performance of the 4 configurations I've tried.


----------



## ShortySmalls

New loop put together to house my new UT60 480 in the 900D











I have An EK Multi-Option 250 Advanced I used to use when i had my CM 932 case, but had to go to a smaller pump top xspc res when i got a difference case, now im back to being able to use the large tube res, would fit and look perfect in that huge space between the mobo and front of the case, but when i dug it out, its all cracked up (does't leak just looks terrible) and i can't find the mount things.

So basicly the top and bottom parts are good, but the tube it self needs replaced and the mounting thingies. Anyone know where i can order these parts? Also what if i wanted to use this res like the EK D5 X-RES Top 140 anyway i can convert what i have into something like this? I want to mount my Swifttech MCP655 onto a tube res somehow, but id like it pretty big since i have alot of space to fill.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> New loop put together to house my new UT60 480 in the 900D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have An EK Multi-Option 250 Advanced I used to use when i had my CM 932 case, but had to go to a smaller pump top xspc res when i got a difference case, now im back to being able to use the large tube res, would fit and look perfect in that huge space between the mobo and front of the case, but when i dug it out, its all cracked up (does't leak just looks terrible) and i can't find the mount things.
> 
> So basicly the top and bottom parts are good, but the tube it self needs replaced and the mounting thingies. Anyone know where i can order these parts? Also what if i wanted to use this res like the EK D5 X-RES Top 140 anyway i can convert what i have into something like this? I want to mount my Swifttech MCP655 onto a tube res somehow, but id like it pretty big since i have alot of space to fill.


The folks at www.frozencpu.com have a large section of replacement EK parts. Might try there first.

Edit: Fixed link, darn mobile.


----------



## DatBrotato

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> New loop put together to house my new UT60 480 in the 900D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have An EK Multi-Option 250 Advanced I used to use when i had my CM 932 case, but had to go to a smaller pump top xspc res when i got a difference case, now im back to being able to use the large tube res, would fit and look perfect in that huge space between the mobo and front of the case, but when i dug it out, its all cracked up (does't leak just looks terrible) and i can't find the mount things.
> 
> So basicly the top and bottom parts are good, but the tube it self needs replaced and the mounting thingies. Anyone know where i can order these parts? Also what if i wanted to use this res like the EK D5 X-RES Top 140 anyway i can convert what i have into something like this? I want to mount my Swifttech MCP655 onto a tube res somehow, but id like it pretty big since i have alot of space to fill.


Clean, nicely done

Wish mine was as clean :'(


----------



## Jakewat

Hey guys got some more questions about my acrylic loop before I go cutting and bending the rest of my tubing.

Firstly, I have seen many tutorials and have practiced a few times now and am beginning to get the hang of everything. But recently I was watching some youtube and came along this guys way of doing things which I need to ask about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ryu5_zLEmE (start at 20:00 to see the bending etc...)
Firstly, holds the tube in his hand while twisting and heating it and is holding the heatgun like 2cm from the tube itself. This just seems like a dodgy way of doing it but I would think that his heatgun is only running at like 100-200 because I have burnt my fingers with the heat gun while using gloves.

Secondly, after he has cut and done his bends he rounds of about 5mm of the edges on sandpaper so that the curve in. Why does he do this and is it only necessary when using "push-in" fittings like the EK HD and bitpower multilink's.
also he says not to use vegetable oils to lube the silicone as it may contaminate the loop, but if you ran it under water and cleaned it out well would there still be traces?

Another thing, I am going to be using mayhems gigabyte pastel concentrate and people always say to use de-ionized water, but I can never find any anywhere. Would this be fine?: http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Austech-Demineralised-Water-5-Litre.aspx?pid=102799#Cross ( I like to double check with other people )


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Hey guys got some more questions about my acrylic loop before I go cutting and bending the rest of my tubing.
> 
> Firstly, I have seen many tutorials and have practiced a few times now and am beginning to get the hang of everything. But recently I was watching some youtube and came along this guys way of doing things which I need to ask about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ryu5_zLEmE (start at 20:00 to see the bending etc...)
> Firstly, holds the tube in his hand while twisting and heating it and is holding the heatgun like 2cm from the tube itself. This just seems like a dodgy way of doing it but I would think that his heatgun is only running at like 100-200 because I have burnt my fingers with the heat gun while using gloves.
> 
> Secondly, after he has cut and done his bends he rounds of about 5mm of the edges on sandpaper so that the curve in. Why does he do this and is it only necessary when using "push-in" fittings like the EK HD and bitpower multilink's.
> also he says not to use vegetable oils to lube the silicone as it may contaminate the loop, but if you ran it under water and cleaned it out well would there still be traces?
> 
> Another thing, I am going to be using mayhems gigabyte pastel concentrate and people always say to use de-ionized water, but I can never find any anywhere. Would this be fine?: http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Austech-Demineralised-Water-5-Litre.aspx?pid=102799#Cross ( I like to double check with other people )


#1 - Find out whichever way to heat the tube works best for you, as long as you get the bends you want, and don't melt or burn the tubing, and your comfortable with it, that's the best way.









#2 - If your using push in connectors it's mandatory to bevel the edge of the tube to keep from hurting the o-rings, if you are using the Primochill fittings, it does help to get the tube into the recess in the base piece also.

I have not had to use anything to lubricate the silicone support, so I'm not going to recommend anything on this as I don't have a working knowledge with it, but doing a good cleaning of the tubes after forming whether you use a lube or not should always be done.

#3 - I have just used distilled water for my mixing of coolant concentrates, usually available at any grocery store or pharmacy for around a dollar a gallon or less.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That sucks, they sent me everything right and right away. I guess EK doesn't like you


yeah... i bet the first package, which got lost in the mail (most likely due to shipping during the holiday) had the right stuff. This is really obscene @ this point though. The ticket has been open for almost 6 weeks, & I still don't have the right stuff. I'm truly losing my faith in EK.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yeah... i bet the first package, which got lost in the mail (most likely due to shipping during the holiday) had the right stuff. This is really obscene @ this point though. The ticket has been open for almost 6 weeks, & I still don't have the right stuff. I'm truly losing my faith in EK.


Have you posted this in the EK forum also?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Have you posted this in the EK forum also?


haven't thought about it. probably should, eh?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> haven't thought about it. probably should, eh?


Well, since the EK rep frequents it, it would have been the first place I posted it, were it me.

Here's a link to it, http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now this is where you fail,You are assuming that a 20-30c rise on load is bad, when its well within the operating temp of the card. You put these expectations upon it,no one else. Now what that guy has is an OC'ed rig and 3 cards on a 2 x 1000RPM fans.....MUCH quieter than 3 GPU blowers and 2 120's for the CPU on air with better temps.....for less than $1000,on what i would easily consider a very high end rig.


Refusing to use the tool as it is designed does not make the tool a FAIL..... would be like complaining ya can't make a good 90 degree bend with a 45 degree mandrel. I am not assuming anything is good or bad. I am suggesting what is recommended based upon the generally accepted goal of 10C, and allowing the user to make the decision whether to meet, exceed or come as close as he / she can to that recommended goal.

I will repeat *yet again*. Martins methods are based upon attaining a goal of 10C ..... That's the bible.... that's the source....that's the science .... that's the industry consensus and recommended practice. I will bold it this time for emphasis .... *the entire approach is based upon a primary goal (underlined again for emphasis) of Delta T = 10°C - for a High-end system*. That is the basis for the method so all data can be easily tracked and verified....There are no tests and curves and data for 20C or 30C or the laughable TJMax. We start out with 10C because that makes it nice and easy for anyone to go back and verify that data on Martins site. The 10C also ideal because it makes the subsequent math easy .... again, unless ya have difficulty dividing by 2 to get 20C or 3 to get 30C.

When you are done, you know where you are, you know what your Delta T will be .... the RoT leaves you with none of that knowledge. With the RoT, whether you wanna build a high end 10C cooling system, a mid range 20C cooling system or a 30C entry level cooling system, the RoT gives ya the same answer and no idea whatsoever where you are within that range. Yes, it's good as a RoT but an RoT is still a guess. Saying it works is like saying one should be satisfied "cause the train took you to your destination and you got there".... I'm saying "Yes I got there but the meeting was at 10 am and getting there at 3 pm isn't accomplishing what I wanted to accomplish". Using this method, you get where ya wanna go *and* when ya ya wanna get there..... using the RoT, you get there, but never know when ya gonna arrive.....it's a complete crapshoot. You have no idea whether you went way overkill or you'll be seeing temps in excess of your predetermined goals.

The RoT doesn't allow you to factor in whether you want a high end, mid level or entry level cooling system....it is entirely inflexible and gives the same answer whether your 4 card GFX load is 600 or 1400 watts. Now with a UT60-120mm providing just 90 watts of cooling per 120mm at 10C ..... or 270 watts at 30C as you prefer ...., how do you justify the same amount of rad for 600 watts and 1400 ? They are 800 watts apart .... that's the equivalent of 9 x 120mm worth of rad at 10C ..... OK so ya say 30C is good enough..... that's still 3 x 120mm or a missing 360" at 30C !!! It's a direct, straightforward question, that I have asked in similar form several times but you have as yet not answered. You say the RoT works regardless of fan speeds and number of fans ..... The RoT says two GFX cards and a CPU requires 4 x 120mm ..... so would that be the 199 watt solution be (480 in push at 1000 rpm) or the 495 watts solution (480 in push / pull at 2200 rpm) ? How can both solutions be "appropriate" when the differ by an order of magnitude of 2.5 to 1 ? I look at this and say

350 x 2 + 140 = 840 watts x 60% = 504 watts or @ 8 x 120mm $ 1250 rpm / 4 x 120mm @ 2200 rpm

That's my range 4 to 8 rad units depending on fan speed, so look at options.

Look at XT45s (* = push / ** = push / pull)
480 @ 2200** = 495 (10.2C, but way way noisy) = $105 + 8 x $15 = $225
480 @ 1800** = 415 (12.1, way noisy) = $105 + 8 x $15 = $225
480 @ 1400** = 329 (15.3, bit noisy) = $105 + 8 x $15 = $225
480 @ 1250** = 296 (17.0, bit warm, sound OK) = $105 + 8 x $15 = $225
480 @ 1250* = 245 (20.5, too warm, sound OK) = $105 + 4 x $15 = $165
480 + 240 @ 1250* = 367 (13.7, slightly warm, sound OK) - $120 + $46 + 6 x $15 = $256
420 + 280 @ 1250* = 416 (12.1, slightly warm, sound OK) = $85 + $66 + 5 x $15 = $226

So using the RoT and limiting noise to 1250 rpm, I have two options:

1. Spend $165 for 480 @ 1250 in push w/ a 20.5 Delta T or $0.67 a watt
2. Spend $225 for 480 @ 1250 in push / pull w/ a 17.0 Delta T or $0.76 a watt

Using the method, that is two possible same answers (if one is willing to go with 17 - 20C) but I have other options:

3. Spend $256 for 480 + 240 @ 1250 in push w/ a 13.7 Delta T or $0.70 a watt
4. Spend $225 for 420 + 280 @ 1250 in push w/ a 12.1 Delta T or $0.54 a watt

-We can cross out 3 cause its most expensive and most expensive per watt
-We can cross out 2 cause its only $1 cheaper than 4 and 1.6C hotter.

So now the user.... *not me* gets to decide whether to pick Option 4 and almost halving his water temps not quite getting to the goal of 10C but close enuff at 12.1 while getting a 24% increase in cost per watt . Or if budget doesn't allow for the $65, he / she can choose Option 1 for 20.5C. But the user walks into the decision knowing exactly what the consequences of the decision are. With the RoT, ya don't know squat. You have no facts upon which to make the decision.

How do you justify the same rad allocation for a CPU that produces 70 watts and one that produces more than 3 times as much at 235 ? Whatever is right for one is certainly not going to provide the same level of cooling for the other. Tell us how the 1 + 1 for the CPU "works" on a 70 watt CPU .... why do I need a 240 rad with 180 watts of cooling for a 70 watt load. Isn't that overkill ?

There's a difference between a high end rig and a high end cooling system....... I have seen crappy CPUs w/ 2 or 3 high end cards .... I have seen LGA2011 builds with 650 Tis....I have seen $3k worth of components stuffed in a $70 case ..... but these are rare and the exception is not the rule so what's the point ? Most folks match a High End CPU with High End Graphics System......and most peeps match the level of the cooling system to the components they are using..... of course there will always be others who put H100s on CPUs and modified H100s on GPUs and wind up with more noise and the same temps as on air. That doesn't make it a recommended procedure.
Quote:


> So it very much is working exactly as intended....with 360 worth less rad than the guide rule states. *** are the categories that you insist I conform to? Why do they have ANY relevance? There was no mention of aiming for Delta's, It was aimed at people like you that expect to have to use lots of rad for everything when clearly you dont.


What was intended ? Again, what was the goal.... Not melting ? Delta T = 10C, 20C, 30C ? ..... how close will you come to manufacturers warranty limits with a rise of 30C in summer time ? The RoT leaves ya with no idea.

I don't insist you conform to anything. If you are happy with 20C or 30C that's fine, but this is OCN and this is where the majority are building or at least want to build "High End Systems"..... If you are happy with 20C, that's fine, then take the amount of rad got High End 10C systems and divide by 2 for your "mid range system"..... If you are happy with 30C then take the amount of rad got High End 10C systems and divide by 3 for your new entry level cooling system. There is no FAIL because the methos allows for you to do that ..... unless you have difficulty dividing by 2 or 3 it shouldn't be an issue.

No one is insisting anyone build a high end system, .... that's the starting point ..... the community consensus or *recommended practice.* Like brushing ya teeth 3 times a day, drinking 8 glasses of water a day, 60 minutes of exercise a day..... just because ya teeth won't necessarily fall out if ya only do it once or twice a day, if ya drink 5 glasses a day, ya won't shrivel up and die, and 30 minutes a day is certainly better than 0 .... but that doesn't make doing what's recommended a bad idea......it's a goal.

Go to any reputable water cooling oriented site and it's all based upon 10C.

http://martinsliquidlab.org
http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/
http://daemonkin.hubpages.com/hub/Choosing-a-radiator-for-pc-watercooling

So why shoot for 10C ? Because that's what all the data is based on, cause that's where most people would be (or better) if they had no budget or size restrictions, so that is where we start. I think most people start out listing the components (CPU, GFX, Storage, etc) they'd like to have and then they pare it down to meet their budget, case size or other limitations. Same thing, here..... In my current build, I started out going for 10C ....couldn't quite fit what I needed in the case I wanted, at least not the way I wanted ...... but I could make it work with 12C. This "must do 10C" is your invention, not mine. It's simply an initial target. Ya can't afford it, pare it down..... ya can't fit it, pare it down. Using reasonably accurate numbers and then seeing just how much performance you are willing top pay for with regard to cost and fit is a sound approach....certainly better than guessing.

A method is not a FAIL if you refuse to follow the instructions of how to use it. If your case and or budget can not sustain a system capable of doing 10C, then:

-Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 1.5 for a Delta T of 15C for a Mid to High End Cooling System
-Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 2.0 for a Delta T of 20C and Mid Range Cooling System
-Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 2.5 for a Delta T of 25C for a Mid to Entry Level Cooling System
-Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 3.0 for a Delta T of 30C for a Entry Level Cooling System

Nice easy round numbers.....math very easy

But still gotta keep in mind that where taking advantage of cooler ambient air by blowing air inside ya case has a minimal effect on air cooling of ya components at 10C.... at some point ya have to think maybe blowing out or a combination of one in / one out is a better idea.....otherwise this will negate to a great extent the extra efficiency in heat exchange ya get from having larger delta Ts thru the rads.
Quote:


> You sitting there saying a 480 rad isnt going to cool a pair of cards and a CPU when its been done...time after time...that tri sli rig has a delta temp of 22c under furmark,for much less rad that the RoT provides. Add it up to RoT and thats 540 worth of rad,if that rig doesnt hit 10c Delta (which is the standard aim) with a 540, I would be amazed
> 
> According to you,that loop is a fail because it didnt hit a 10c delta,well guess what,HE WASNT AIMING FOR A 10c DELTA!,for him,that loop works as HE intended. What do you struggle with here? 10c or 30c under TJMax,doesnt matter,its still under. .


I don't recall ever saying that any rad or combination of rads is a FAIL..... just that it doesn't meet the widely accepted goal of 10C. This isn't the "Adequate Performing PC Owners Network" web site. If we were content with "adequate", we wouldn't be overclocking or watercooling. I just provided the means to calculate what takes to build a high end system get to 10C .... It took me quite a bit of reading and rereading to understand and compile the information and dozens of forum users have been asking for it to be expanded upon. Again, unless mathematically challenged, the division by 2 for 20C or 3 for 30C shouldn't be a problem.

If someone wants to diet, to lose 1 pound, they need have a 3500 calorie deficit. A nutritionist might set a goal and say "If you want to lose a pound a week , try and have 5 small meals (or 3 meals and 2 snackings) a day to keep ya metabolism going and at the end of the week you need an average calorie deficit of 700 calories per day" . No different from, If you want to have a delta T of 10C, then you need this much rad. If you don't want to exercise that much or cut that much from ya intake, then fine ..... that doesn't make "her system" a FAIL. You just adjust it for your own needs. If you are happy with losing a pound every two weeks, then assuming most people can tackle that math problem and divide 700 by 2 to get 350 (just like ya do when going from 10C to 20C). With a RoT approach to nutrition..... imagine "skip 2 of those 5 meals a day if ya wanna lose a pound a week + 1 for each additional pound" .... well if the three meals that are left are 1000 calories each, the person isn't going to lose much weight now are they. Yes it can work ....if the 2 skipped meals combine for 700 calories..... but just like 600 watts GFX load and 1400 watt GFX load, it kinda makes a difference if those meals are 600 or 1400 calories. The RoT makes no allowance for small versus large loads.

Your reference to TJMax is rich in this setting.,..... let's take a poll of how many OCN members are interested in running their systems at 1 degree below TJmax ..... by your standard of "adequate not to cause damage", 130dBA is the limit where I damage my hearing so any noise level under that must be fine too. Deterioration of chips is both temperature and voltage dependent, tho the latter has much greater influence, I am willing to squeeze a lil more voltage in at lower temps that I would be hesitant at high temps. I don't much care about the voltage and temp that causes immediate failure or throttling ..... I care about the temps and voltage that will get me the highest overclocks while still protecting my CPUs / GPUs from degradation over time.... and by that I mean "before I am ready to dump it". Suffice to say, at my 4.6 GHz OC, at 74C, I'm not going to be under the "JNmax" of 75C and noise goal of completely inaudible with half the rad space. At 22C Delta T, I just dropped from 4.6 to 4.4 GHz to maintain the same CPU temps.

I have two systems in this room, both are SLI, both are completely inaudible, both are OC'd 25%. The WC is completely inaudible..... the air cooled build is barely audible (certainly "adequate") sitting next to it, though it's quieter than the heat coming thru the air vents when heat goes on.....It's about 7-8 feet away from me and I can't hear it.....sometimes my son comes in the office and plays on it, from my chair, I can hear the sound leaking out his Sennheiser headphones, but I can't hear the fans. Of course his GPU temps are 84C and mine are 44C .... mine go down to 39C if I turn up the fans but than I can hear them
Quote:


> More importantly,show me a rig where the RoT has not worked? Show me one where the temps are unacceptable?


How many times you want me to type the same thing. You again say the RoT works but no backup, again, show us....show us how it works on those four 350 watt 290x's.....or sky's four 400 watt 780s....and ....since you did say rpms and P/P don't matter, ya gotta do it with just 1000 rpm fans in push. I wanna see your math on that one.

And ya still have not bothered to address any of the previous questions.... if ya wanna show me that the RoT works ya gonna have to at some point address these questions from the past posts.

...... how the same rule applies to a 150 watt GFX card and a 350 watt card, especially with 3 or 4 of them ....a 3.5 to one ratio...a 200 watt difference when a 120mm rad can do 100 (at 2200 rpm)
.......how the same rule applies to a 70 watt CPU at stock and a 235 watt OC'd CPU
.......how the same rule applies at 2200 rpm when a Monsta provides 122 watts of cooling still works the same at 1000 rpm and 50 watts .... a 2.44 ratio.
.......how the same rule applies with single fan versus push / pull when 10- 30% differences have been measured in the lab.

How does the the rule allow for the same solution (twin 360s) with 235 watt LGA 2011w/ four overclocked 350 watt cards (1635 watts) and 1000 rpm fans in push (providing 360 watts of cooling) for a load / cooling ratio of 4.5 to 1 and at the same time for a mid range i5 w/ four 150 watt cards (670 watts) and 2200 rpm fans in push / pull (providing 742 watts of cooling) for a 0.9 to 1 ratio ?????

The RoT has no goals, no way to account for them and no way to adjust it for components of wildly varying loads. The calculation method always works cause 1) it is designed on a specific goal and 2) allows you to include exact numbers so it adjusts for ecery component possible. The method is not intended to determine what is adequate or what ya can get by with, that's a user decision. It is only intended to tell the user what is required to meet the standard, widely accepted recommendation of 10C. Once determined, the user has all the information needed to make a decision to go for the 10C or reduce his cooling system's performance to meet budgetary or space limitations. If he / she knows what's needed at 10C, then the corresponding temp increase / decrease with any combination of rads can be determined with simple arithmetic. If the "recommended" for 10C is "N" number of 120mm and you only have space for 2/3 of "N" that, then ya loop temp can be expected to be about 10C x 3/2 or 15C. It works with any combination of CPUs, GPUs, and anything else....and allows you to make a decision with "eyes wide open" knowing full well what the impacts will be. With the RoT, you're completely blind with no idea whether you gonna be at 10C or 20C or worse. The 1635 watts on 360 watts of cooling puts ya at a bit over 27C .... worse case summer coolant temps of that could hit 65C ? Don't reservoirs vendors start to get cranky w/ high temps that high ?

One more thing..... the Intel HS issues started with IB not Haswell .... the latter is a bit worse than IB but the difference between IB and SB is gargantuan.


----------



## CroakV

Love ya Jack, but nobody is going to survive that wall of text.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Love ya Jack, but nobody is going to survive that wall of text.


Yep, i read the first line and was like nope, as i scrolled 1 page i was like double nope.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

I think that might be one of the longest posts I've seen


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> I think that might be one of the longest posts I've seen


Lol, go back a few pages, there was another doozy there also. Very informative.


----------



## kizwan

Little update. Still *WIP* of course.

Before


Current progress ... with bad lighting.


Up close and personal


Not too happy with the 290's temp though especially VRM1.


----------



## VSG

Do you have thermal paste on the VRMs? I am assuming you are using the stock EK pads- they got a pretty low thermal conductivity relative to most thermal paste/better pads and people reported using paste helped lower VRM/VRAM temps.


----------



## SeeThruHead

I'm not sure why there's an argument here but I think the rule of thumb applies mostly to new watercoolers using typical components. It works well for the typical range or fan speeds and the typical 1-2 gpu setup. Most people doing more exotic watercooling than that are going to know how to calculate their heat output and Max radiator size and fan speed accordingly.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Do you have thermal paste on the VRMs? I am assuming you are using the stock EK pads- they got a pretty low thermal conductivity relative to most thermal paste/better pads and people reported using paste helped lower VRM/VRAM temps.


Yes, paste on the VRMs. Another 290 owner did without & with thermal paste on the VRMs, no difference at all though.

BTW, I bleed my loop until I no longer hear water moving in the loop. Then I turned off the pump & prepare my system for normal operation. When I startup my computer, there is a lot of air bubbles coming from the GPU's. Is this normal with parallel setup? I have D5 vario pump running at 5. Probably the coolant skipped some part in the GPU's when bleeding earlier & when I startup the pump later, coolant just filled the void, pushing out the air bubbles.

Also, the most restrictive part in my loop is HL Black Ice GTS 360 rad. The flow is like this: GTS 360 >> 290's parallel. Does this prevent the 290's from getting good flow?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I'm not sure why there's an argument here but I think the rule of thumb applies mostly to new watercoolers using typical components. It works well for the typical range or fan speeds and the typical 1-2 gpu setup. Most people doing more exotic watercooling than that are going to know how to calculate their heat output and Max radiator size and fan speed accordingly.


I like to think ROT is base rule, recommended basic setup. Of course the actual amount of radiator will depends on how high you're going to overclock. Heavy overclocked system will likely need more rad space. A lot of factors play here, you may or mat not get enough cooling if you use less rad space then the ROT.

I don't see why this argument still need to continue though. A dedicated thread is suitable for this kind of discussion.


----------



## Juthos

A new version of the Bitspower's res


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now this is where you fail,You are assuming that a 20-30c rise on load is bad, when its well within the operating temp of the card. You put these expectations upon it,no one else. Now what that guy has is an OC'ed rig and 3 cards on a 2 x 1000RPM fans.....MUCH quieter than 3 GPU blowers and 2 120's for the CPU on air with better temps.....for less than $1000,on what i would easily consider a very high end rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Refusing to use the tool as it is designed does not make the tool a FAIL..... would be like complaining ya can't make a good 90 degree bend with a 45 degree mandrel. I am not assuming anything is good or bad. I am suggesting what is recommended based upon the generally accepted goal of 10C, and allowing the user to make the decision whether to meet, exceed or come as close as he / she can to that recommended goal.
> 
> I will repeat *yet again*. Martins methods are based upon attaining a goal of 10C ..... That's the bible.... that's the source....that's the science .... that's the industry consensus and recommended practice. I will bold it this time for emphasis .... *the entire approach is based upon a primary goal (underlined again for emphasis) of Delta T = 10°C - for a High-end system*. That is the basis for the method so all data can be easily tracked and verified....There are no tests and curves and data for 20C or 30C or the laughable TJMax. We start out with 10C because that makes it nice and easy for anyone to go back and verify that data on Martins site. The 10C also ideal because it makes the subsequent math easy .... again, unless ya have difficulty dividing by 2 to get 20C or 3 to get 30C.
> 
> When you are done, you know where you are, you know what your Delta T will be .... the RoT leaves you with none of that knowledge. With the RoT, whether you wanna build a high end 10C cooling system, a mid range 20C cooling system or a 30C entry level cooling system, the RoT gives ya the same answer and no idea whatsoever where you are within that range. Yes, it's good as a RoT but an RoT is still a guess. Saying it works is like saying one should be satisfied "cause the train took you to your destination and you got there".... I'm saying "Yes I got there but the meeting was at 10 am and getting there at 3 pm isn't accomplishing what I wanted to accomplish". Using this method, you get where ya wanna go *and* when ya ya wanna get there..... using the RoT, you get there, but never know when ya gonna arrive.....it's a complete crapshoot. You have no idea whether you went way overkill or you'll be seeing temps in excess of your predetermined goals.
> 
> The RoT doesn't allow you to factor in whether you want a high end, mid level or entry level cooling system....it is entirely inflexible and gives the same answer whether your 4 card GFX load is 600 or 1400 watts. Now with a UT60-120mm providing just 90 watts of cooling per 120mm at 10C ..... or 270 watts at 30C as you prefer ...., how do you justify the same amount of rad for 600 watts and 1400 ? They are 800 watts apart .... that's the equivalent of 9 x 120mm worth of rad at 10C ..... OK so ya say 30C is good enough..... that's still 3 x 120mm or a missing 360" at 30C !!! It's a direct, straightforward question, that I have asked in similar form several times but you have as yet not answered. You say the RoT works regardless of fan speeds and number of fans ..... The RoT says two GFX cards and a CPU requires 4 x 120mm ..... so would that be the 199 watt solution be (480 in push at 1000 rpm) or the 495 watts solution (480 in push / pull at 2200 rpm) ? How can both solutions be "appropriate" when the differ by an order of magnitude of 2.5 to 1 ? I look at this and say
> 
> 350 x 2 + 140 = 840 watts x 60% = 504 watts or @ 8 x 120mm $ 1250 rpm / 4 x 120mm @ 2200 rpm
> 
> That's my range 4 to 8 rad units depending on fan speed, so look at options.
> 
> Look at XT45s (* = push / ** = push / pull)
> 480 @ 2200** = 495 (10.2C, but way way noisy) = $105 + 8 x $15 = $225
> 480 @ 1800** = 415 (12.1, way noisy) = $105 + 8 x $15 = $225
> 480 @ 1400** = 329 (15.3, bit noisy) = $105 + 8 x $15 = $225
> 480 @ 1250** = 296 (17.0, bit warm, sound OK) = $105 + 8 x $15 = $225
> 480 @ 1250* = 245 (20.5, too warm, sound OK) = $105 + 4 x $15 = $165
> 480 + 240 @ 1250* = 367 (13.7, slightly warm, sound OK) - $120 + $46 + 6 x $15 = $256
> 420 + 280 @ 1250* = 416 (12.1, slightly warm, sound OK) = $85 + $66 + 5 x $15 = $226
> 
> So using the RoT and limiting noise to 1250 rpm, I have two options:
> 
> 1. Spend $165 for 480 @ 1250 in push w/ a 20.5 Delta T or $0.67 a watt
> 2. Spend $225 for 480 @ 1250 in push / pull w/ a 17.0 Delta T or $0.76 a watt
> 
> Using the method, that is two possible same answers (if one is willing to go with 17 - 20C) but I have other options:
> 
> 3. Spend $256 for 480 + 240 @ 1250 in push w/ a 13.7 Delta T or $0.70 a watt
> 4. Spend $225 for 420 + 280 @ 1250 in push w/ a 12.1 Delta T or $0.54 a watt
> 
> -We can cross out 3 cause its most expensive and most expensive per watt
> -We can cross out 2 cause its only $1 cheaper than 4 and 1.6C hotter.
> 
> So now the user.... *not me* gets to decide whether to pick Option 4 and almost halving his water temps not quite getting to the goal of 10C but close enuff at 12.1 while getting a 24% increase in cost per watt . Or if budget doesn't allow for the $65, he / she can choose Option 1 for 20.5C. But the user walks into the decision knowing exactly what the consequences of the decision are. With the RoT, ya don't know squat. You have no facts upon which to make the decision.
> 
> How do you justify the same rad allocation for a CPU that produces 70 watts and one that produces more than 3 times as much at 235 ? Whatever is right for one is certainly not going to provide the same level of cooling for the other. Tell us how the 1 + 1 for the CPU "works" on a 70 watt CPU .... why do I need a 240 rad with 180 watts of cooling for a 70 watt load. Isn't that overkill ?
> 
> There's a difference between a high end rig and a high end cooling system....... I have seen crappy CPUs w/ 2 or 3 high end cards .... I have seen LGA2011 builds with 650 Tis....I have seen $3k worth of components stuffed in a $70 case ..... but these are rare and the exception is not the rule so what's the point ? Most folks match a High End CPU with High End Graphics System......and most peeps match the level of the cooling system to the components they are using..... of course there will always be others who put H100s on CPUs and modified H100s on GPUs and wind up with more noise and the same temps as on air. That doesn't make it a recommended procedure.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> So it very much is working exactly as intended....with 360 worth less rad than the guide rule states. *** are the categories that you insist I conform to? Why do they have ANY relevance? There was no mention of aiming for Delta's, It was aimed at people like you that expect to have to use lots of rad for everything when clearly you dont.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What was intended ? Again, what was the goal.... Not melting ? Delta T = 10C, 20C, 30C ? ..... how close will you come to manufacturers warranty limits with a rise of 30C in summer time ? The RoT leaves ya with no idea.
> 
> I don't insist you conform to anything. If you are happy with 20C or 30C that's fine, but this is OCN and this is where the majority are building or at least want to build "High End Systems"..... If you are happy with 20C, that's fine, then take the amount of rad got High End 10C systems and divide by 2 for your "mid range system"..... If you are happy with 30C then take the amount of rad got High End 10C systems and divide by 3 for your new entry level cooling system. There is no FAIL because the methos allows for you to do that ..... unless you have difficulty dividing by 2 or 3 it shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> No one is insisting anyone build a high end system, .... that's the starting point ..... the community consensus or *recommended practice.* Like brushing ya teeth 3 times a day, drinking 8 glasses of water a day, 60 minutes of exercise a day..... just because ya teeth won't necessarily fall out if ya only do it once or twice a day, if ya drink 5 glasses a day, ya won't shrivel up and die, and 30 minutes a day is certainly better than 0 .... but that doesn't make doing what's recommended a bad idea......it's a goal.
> 
> Go to any reputable water cooling oriented site and it's all based upon 10C.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org
> http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/
> http://daemonkin.hubpages.com/hub/Choosing-a-radiator-for-pc-watercooling
> 
> So why shoot for 10C ? Because that's what all the data is based on, cause that's where most people would be (or better) if they had no budget or size restrictions, so that is where we start. I think most people start out listing the components (CPU, GFX, Storage, etc) they'd like to have and then they pare it down to meet their budget, case size or other limitations. Same thing, here..... In my current build, I started out going for 10C ....couldn't quite fit what I needed in the case I wanted, at least not the way I wanted ...... but I could make it work with 12C. This "must do 10C" is your invention, not mine. It's simply an initial target. Ya can't afford it, pare it down..... ya can't fit it, pare it down. Using reasonably accurate numbers and then seeing just how much performance you are willing top pay for with regard to cost and fit is a sound approach....certainly better than guessing.
> 
> A method is not a FAIL if you refuse to follow the instructions of how to use it. If your case and or budget can not sustain a system capable of doing 10C, then:
> 
> -Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 1.5 for a Delta T of 15C for a Mid to High End Cooling System
> -Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 2.0 for a Delta T of 20C and Mid Range Cooling System
> -Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 2.5 for a Delta T of 25C for a Mid to Entry Level Cooling System
> -Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 3.0 for a Delta T of 30C for a Entry Level Cooling System
> 
> Nice easy round numbers.....math very easy
> 
> But still gotta keep in mind that where taking advantage of cooler ambient air by blowing air inside ya case has a minimal effect on air cooling of ya components at 10C.... at some point ya have to think maybe blowing out or a combination of one in / one out is a better idea.....otherwise this will negate to a great extent the extra efficiency in heat exchange ya get from having larger delta Ts thru the rads.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> You sitting there saying a 480 rad isnt going to cool a pair of cards and a CPU when its been done...time after time...that tri sli rig has a delta temp of 22c under furmark,for much less rad that the RoT provides. Add it up to RoT and thats 540 worth of rad,if that rig doesnt hit 10c Delta (which is the standard aim) with a 540, I would be amazed
> 
> According to you,that loop is a fail because it didnt hit a 10c delta,well guess what,HE WASNT AIMING FOR A 10c DELTA!,for him,that loop works as HE intended. What do you struggle with here? 10c or 30c under TJMax,doesnt matter,its still under. .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't recall ever saying that any rad or combination of rads is a FAIL..... just that it doesn't meet the widely accepted goal of 10C. This isn't the "Adequate Performing PC Owners Network" web site. If we were content with "adequate", we wouldn't be overclocking or watercooling. I just provided the means to calculate what takes to build a high end system get to 10C .... It took me quite a bit of reading and rereading to understand and compile the information and dozens of forum users have been asking for it to be expanded upon. Again, unless mathematically challenged, the division by 2 for 20C or 3 for 30C shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> If someone wants to diet, to lose 1 pound, they need have a 3500 calorie deficit. A nutritionist might set a goal and say "If you want to lose a pound a week , try and have 5 small meals (or 3 meals and 2 snackings) a day to keep ya metabolism going and at the end of the week you need an average calorie deficit of 700 calories per day" . No different from, If you want to have a delta T of 10C, then you need this much rad. If you don't want to exercise that much or cut that much from ya intake, then fine ..... that doesn't make "her system" a FAIL. You just adjust it for your own needs. If you are happy with losing a pound every two weeks, then assuming most people can tackle that math problem and divide 700 by 2 to get 350 (just like ya do when going from 10C to 20C). With a RoT approach to nutrition..... imagine "skip 2 of those 5 meals a day if ya wanna lose a pound a week + 1 for each additional pound" .... well if the three meals that are left are 1000 calories each, the person isn't going to lose much weight now are they. Yes it can work ....if the 2 skipped meals combine for 700 calories..... but just like 600 watts GFX load and 1400 watt GFX load, it kinda makes a difference if those meals are 600 or 1400 calories. The RoT makes no allowance for small versus large loads.
> 
> Your reference to TJMax is rich in this setting.,..... let's take a poll of how many OCN members are interested in running their systems at 1 degree below TJmax ..... by your standard of "adequate not to cause damage", 130dBA is the limit where I damage my hearing so any noise level under that must be fine too. Deterioration of chips is both temperature and voltage dependent, tho the latter has much greater influence, I am willing to squeeze a lil more voltage in at lower temps that I would be hesitant at high temps. I don't much care about the voltage and temp that causes immediate failure or throttling ..... I care about the temps and voltage that will get me the highest overclocks while still protecting my CPUs / GPUs from degradation over time.... and by that I mean "before I am ready to dump it". Suffice to say, at my 4.6 GHz OC, at 74C, I'm not going to be under the "JNmax" of 75C and noise goal of completely inaudible with half the rad space. At 22C Delta T, I just dropped from 4.6 to 4.4 GHz to maintain the same CPU temps.
> 
> I have two systems in this room, both are SLI, both are completely inaudible, both are OC'd 25%. The WC is completely inaudible..... the air cooled build is barely audible (certainly "adequate") sitting next to it, though it's quieter than the heat coming thru the air vents when heat goes on.....It's about 7-8 feet away from me and I can't hear it.....sometimes my son comes in the office and plays on it, from my chair, I can hear the sound leaking out his Sennheiser headphones, but I can't hear the fans. Of course his GPU temps are 84C and mine are 44C .... mine go down to 39C if I turn up the fans but than I can hear them
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> More importantly,show me a rig where the RoT has not worked? Show me one where the temps are unacceptable?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How many times you want me to type the same thing. You again say the RoT works but no backup, again, show us....show us how it works on those four 350 watt 290x's.....or sky's four 400 watt 780s....and ....since you did say rpms and P/P don't matter, ya gotta do it with just 1000 rpm fans in push. I wanna see your math on that one.
> 
> And ya still have not bothered to address any of the previous questions.... if ya wanna show me that the RoT works ya gonna have to at some point address these questions from the past posts.
> 
> ...... how the same rule applies to a 150 watt GFX card and a 350 watt card, especially with 3 or 4 of them ....a 3.5 to one ratio...a 200 watt difference when a 120mm rad can do 100 (at 2200 rpm)
> .......how the same rule applies to a 70 watt CPU at stock and a 235 watt OC'd CPU
> .......how the same rule applies at 2200 rpm when a Monsta provides 122 watts of cooling still works the same at 1000 rpm and 50 watts .... a 2.44 ratio.
> .......how the same rule applies with single fan versus push / pull when 10- 30% differences have been measured in the lab.
> 
> How does the the rule allow for the same solution (twin 360s) with 235 watt LGA 2011w/ four overclocked 350 watt cards (1635 watts) and 1000 rpm fans in push (providing 360 watts of cooling) for a load / cooling ratio of 4.5 to 1 and at the same time for a mid range i5 w/ four 150 watt cards (670 watts) and 2200 rpm fans in push / pull (providing 742 watts of cooling) for a 0.9 to 1 ratio ?????
> 
> The RoT has no goals, no way to account for them and no way to adjust it for components of wildly varying loads. The calculation method always works cause 1) it is designed on a specific goal and 2) allows you to include exact numbers so it adjusts for ecery component possible. The method is not intended to determine what is adequate or what ya can get by with, that's a user decision. It is only intended to tell the user what is required to meet the standard, widely accepted recommendation of 10C. Once determined, the user has all the information needed to make a decision to go for the 10C or reduce his cooling system's performance to meet budgetary or space limitations. If he / she knows what's needed at 10C, then the corresponding temp increase / decrease with any combination of rads can be determined with simple arithmetic. If the "recommended" for 10C is "N" number of 120mm and you only have space for 2/3 of "N" that, then ya loop temp can be expected to be about 10C x 3/2 or 15C. It works with any combination of CPUs, GPUs, and anything else....and allows you to make a decision with "eyes wide open" knowing full well what the impacts will be. With the RoT, you're completely blind with no idea whether you gonna be at 10C or 20C or worse. The 1635 watts on 360 watts of cooling puts ya at a bit over 27C .... worse case summer coolant temps of that could hit 65C ? Don't reservoirs vendors start to get cranky w/ high temps that high ?
> 
> One more thing..... the Intel HS issues started with IB not Haswell .... the latter is a bit worse than IB but the difference between IB and SB is gargantuan.
Click to expand...

Again,this thread is littered with RoT based rigs,all working very well. You also have not factored any loss in to your math,because a component uses 200w doesnt mean it transfers 200w lossless in to the loop. You have no evidence of what actual heat wattage is transferred into the water,all you have is Martins dissipation rates for rads,one side of the math has quantifiable tests while the other does not.. Using a pure math test when one side of the equation is an unknown variable is fail.

You are also labouring under the assumption that more rad cannot be added and,as previously stated...many times,the RoT is a balance of silence and performance.

Also, The 10c delta is arbitrary and artificial, its not rooted in anything,its just a value placed there by Martin which everybody accepts.

So,again,show me the evidence that the RoT fails,practical examples or the whole tested math,including the actual wattage transferred in to the water.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I'm not sure why there's an argument here but I think the rule of thumb applies mostly to new watercoolers using typical components. It works well for the typical range or fan speeds and the typical 1-2 gpu setup. Most people doing more exotic watercooling than that are going to know how to calculate their heat output and Max radiator size and fan speed accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> I like to think ROT is base rule, recommended basic setup. Of course the actual amount of radiator will depends on how high you're going to overclock. Heavy overclocked system will likely need more rad space. A lot of factors play here, you may or mat not get enough cooling if you use less rad space then the ROT.
> 
> I don't see why this argument still need to continue though. A dedicated thread is suitable for this kind of discussion.
Click to expand...

Agreed, obviously things are gonna vary from person to person, but for some1 new that wants to get into watercooling it's a pretty safe guideline to follow. When you're experienced enough to break down the amount of watts you need to dissipate and how much rad space is needed to dissipate it, then Rule's of Thumb won't matter anymore to you anyway.

It reminds me of that scene from the movie "Troy" where Brad Pitt's teaching his little cousin how to swordfight and then switches to his left hand. And his cousin was like "You told me to NEVER switch sword hands" and Brad Pitt said "When you know how to use it, you won't be needing my instructions anymore..."

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> A new version of the Bitspower's res
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that a new res model or just a new optional multiport top?


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Is that a new res model or just a new optional multiport top?


The res is almost the same with a new end cap with two holes, also sold seperately:

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_59&products_id=3313

and with air exhaust fitting.


----------



## WiSK

When you want to convince others of your convictions, terse statements tend to hold the attention better than a barrage of facts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> a goal of 10C ..... That's the bible.... that's the source....that's the science .... that's the industry consensus and recommended practice


Nonsense. There is no industry consensus, because watercooling is a hobby and there is no industry.

Since the rest of your comments were presumably based on this, I stopped reading


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> When you want to convince others of your convictions, terse statements tend to hold the attention better than a barrage of facts.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> a goal of 10C ..... That's the bible.... that's the source....that's the science .... that's the industry consensus and recommended practice
> 
> 
> 
> *Nonsense. There is no industry consensus, because watercooling is a hobby and there is no industry*.
> 
> Since the rest of your comments were presumably based on this, I stopped reading
Click to expand...

~6000 Pages of this thread, just one of many on one of many forums, hundreds of guys spending thousands of dollars, just here alone, with Monsoon and BP releasing new fitting lines specifically for hard tubing in addition to their long standing, ever expanding, soft tubing lines, would have to account as conclusive evidence that WC is INDEED and industry.

Over the years I've seen the 10C figure used as much as a RoT as the topic RoT.

Today we live in a world of sound bites, or text bites.

Big walls of text no matter how informative or well thought out, are generally lost to short attention spans or a look ahead for the next pic, and the only folks who read them are often other geeks, who already know the information anyway.

If it's not a submission to a peer journal, I find the KISS principle to be the true RoT.

Darlene


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I find the KISS principle to be the true RoT.Darlene


Whats the KISS principle....?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> When you want to convince others of your convictions, terse statements tend to hold the attention better than a barrage of facts.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> a goal of 10C ..... That's the bible.... that's the source....that's the science .... that's the industry consensus and recommended practice
> 
> 
> 
> *Nonsense. There is no industry consensus, because watercooling is a hobby and there is no industry*.
> 
> Since the rest of your comments were presumably based on this, I stopped reading
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ~6000 Pages of this thread, just one of many on one of many forums, hundreds of guys spending thousands of dollars, just here alone, with Monsoon and BP releasing new fitting lines specifically for hard tubing in addition to their long standing, but expanding, soft tubing lines, would have to account as conclusive evidence that WC is INDEED and industry.
> 
> Over the years I've seen the 10C figure used as much as a RoT as the topic RoT.
> 
> Today we live in a world of sound bites, or text bites.
> 
> Big walls of text no matter how informative or well thought out, are generally lost to short attention spans or a look ahead for the next pic, and the only folks who read them are often other geeks, who already know the information anyway.
> 
> If it's not a submission to a peer journal, I find the KISS principle to be the true RoT.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

You are missing the point,we,the users,are not an industry. The manufacturers are the industry and they make no claim nor reference to a 10c delta as a aim for WC,that was put out there by Martin (a user) arbitrarily.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 6000 Pages of this thread, hundreds of guys spending thousands of dollars, ... would have to account as acceptable evidence that WC is INDEED and industry


There's no industry among the end users. Of all the people using water cooling, most just install the parts, set the fans to whatever they find acceptable, check temps are fine, and forget about it.

It's only a tiny percentage of us who have our Aquaeros set to force a particular delta. Most have no water temp sensor even, or fan control based on CPU temps.

Ambient-water 10C is arbitrary, 13.5C works just as well. For Jack's purposes, 10C is handy because that's what Martin measures, but there's no consensus. For example, Bundymania measures CPU delta at certain fan speeds, and there's plenty of people (more in Europe) who base their purchase choices on his data.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 6000 Pages of this thread, hundreds of guys spending thousands of dollars, ... would have to account as acceptable evidence that WC is INDEED and industry
> 
> 
> 
> There's no industry among the end users. Of all the people using water cooling, most just install the parts, set the fans to whatever they find acceptable, check temps are fine, and forget about it.
> 
> It's only a tiny percentage of us who have our Aquaeros set to force a particular delta. Most have no water temp sensor even, or fan control based on CPU temps.
> 
> Ambient-water 10C is arbitrary, 13.5C works just as well. For Jack's purposes, 10C is handy because that's what Martin measures, but there's no consensus. For example, Bundymania measures CPU delta at certain fan speeds, and there's plenty of people (more in Europe) who base their purchase choices on his data.
Click to expand...

This.

Also worth bearing in mind is that 100% load on both the GPU and CPU outside of folding is not realistic in the slightest.


----------



## CroakV

I've got a WC rule of thumb when it comes to goals:

"Cooler and quieter than air and it all fits inside a case that doesn't eat my entire flat? Winning!"

Everything else is gravy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I've got a WC rule of thumb when it comes to goals:
> 
> "Cooler and quieter than air and it all fits inside a case that doesn't eat my entire flat? Winning!"
> 
> Everything else is gravy.


You are not alone,most people are aiming for that result.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Whats the KISS principle....?


The two main versions I know of are as follows...

Polite version: Keep it superbly simple
Not as polite version: Keep it simple, stupid.

Basically, it's an acronym to be a reminder to not over-complicate things.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 6000 Pages of this thread, hundreds of guys spending thousands of dollars, ... would have to account as acceptable evidence that WC is INDEED and industry
> 
> 
> 
> There's no industry among the end users. Of all the people using water cooling, most just install the parts, set the fans to whatever they find acceptable, check temps are fine, and forget about it.
> 
> It's only a tiny percentage of us who have our Aquaeros set to force a particular delta. Most have no water temp sensor even, or fan control based on CPU temps.
> 
> Ambient-water 10C is arbitrary, 13.5C works just as well. For Jack's purposes, 10C is handy because that's what Martin measures, but there's no consensus. For example, Bundymania measures CPU delta at certain fan speeds, and there's plenty of people (more in Europe) who base their purchase choices on his data.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This.
> 
> Also worth bearing in mind is that 100% load on both the GPU and CPU outside of folding is not realistic in the slightest.
Click to expand...

My point was that you can not divorce the end user from the manufacturing industry, they are an integral part of it, as their product selection drives it. You can't have an industry with only one side.

Martin's 10C number was not all that arbitrary at all, at least back when it was proposed in the days of GPUs that would give you a suntan if you gazed at them too long.

Technology has changed that, cards can run hotter and survive, and we whine about noise that we gladly accepted as part of performance a decade ago.

The concept of having to generally maintain a 10C delta is what's really been outdated by current technology, and because it is, is why the RoT is still acceptable, not because the RoT itself was somehow incredibly, brilliantly, flexible.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 6000 Pages of this thread, hundreds of guys spending thousands of dollars, ... would have to account as acceptable evidence that WC is INDEED and industry
> 
> 
> 
> There's no industry among the end users. Of all the people using water cooling, most just install the parts, set the fans to whatever they find acceptable, check temps are fine, and forget about it.
> 
> It's only a tiny percentage of us who have our Aquaeros set to force a particular delta. Most have no water temp sensor even, or fan control based on CPU temps.
> 
> Ambient-water 10C is arbitrary, 13.5C works just as well. For Jack's purposes, 10C is handy because that's what Martin measures, but there's no consensus. For example, Bundymania measures CPU delta at certain fan speeds, and there's plenty of people (more in Europe) who base their purchase choices on his data.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This.
> 
> Also worth bearing in mind is that 100% load on both the GPU and CPU outside of folding is not realistic in the slightest.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My point was that you can not divorce the end user from the manufacturing industry, they are an integral part of it, as their product selection drives it. You can't have an industry with only one side.
> 
> Martin's 10C number was not al that arbitrary at all, at least back when it was proposed in the days of GPUs that would give you a suntan if you gazed at them too long.
> 
> Technology has changed that, cards can run hotter and survive, and we whine about noise that we gladly accepted as part of performance a decade ago.
> 
> The concept of having to generally maintain a 10C delta is what's really been outdated by current technology, and because it is, is why the RoT is still acceptable, not because the RoT itself was somehow incredibly, brilliantly, flexible.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Your are basing your premise on a change of technique and/or materials,equating a tube material change with radiators tech is false. We are the consumers,not the industry. We consume what they produce,we have no real input in design or spec's. Using the recent tubing advances and manufacturers desire to cash in on it doesnt mean we are the industry.


----------



## Kurry

Hi guys


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Your are basing your premise on a change of technique and/or materials,equating a tube material change with radiators tech is false. We are the consumers,not the industry. We consume what they produce,we have no real input in design or spec's. Using the recent tubing advances and manufacturers desire to cash in on it doesnt mean we are the industry.


Just means we are a product of industry. They produce, we buy. In this niche market, cost is almost irrelevant. Clear acrylic tube is the perfect example. Most acrylic users are perfectly happy paying ~$20 for 8 feet of 1/2 Primochill Acrylic tubing when the same stuff can be had from places that specialize in plastics for a fraction of the price. And the big companies know that so they can get away with charging more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Kurry








Holy mother of pumps Batman!
Nice and clean. I like it


----------



## kcuestag

Hey, I have DeltaT of around 14-15ºC using all fans at 800rpm and I couldn't be happier, I could care less as long as everything is cooler than air (Which it is, by FAR, specially GPU's) and quieter.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mother of god, looks amazing!









May I ask why you're using 3 D5 pumps on such a "simple" (Just CPU, RAM and 1 GPU) loop?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautifully done, yeah I think I want to redo my runs now lol great work


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


Wow! Nice. I like.
Is that three D5s?


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey, I have DeltaT of around 14-15ºC using all fans at 800rpm and I couldn't be happier, I could care less as long as everything is cooler than air (Which it is, by FAR, specially GPU's) and quieter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mother of god, looks amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I ask why you're using 3 D5 pumps on such a "simple" (Just CPU, RAM and 1 GPU) loop?


I was wondering the same thing, but damn, it looks good, and looking good is the _raison d'etre_ for most of the builds on this site.


----------



## stickg1

Oh sick, pictures, good my head was about to explode. Thought I was in a classroom there for a minute. A bunch of good information and an intellectual debate no doubt, but pictures are good too.

Three D5's? Nice!


----------



## Kurry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> May I ask why you're using 3 D5 pumps on such a "simple" (Just CPU, RAM and 1 GPU) loop?


Actually you forget the MB







The loop is:

Tank - Phobya DC220 (just for filling, not enabled) - AE5 watercooler - 240Rad (front) - 360Rad (top) - 480Rad (bottom) - D5s - GPU - RAM - CPU - MB - Tank
+ 10x90° + 4x 45°

The D5 running at the lowest speed possible for accustic reasons of course. 2 pumps are getting me ~90l/h which is of course enough (1 isnt really). the third is just for sexiness








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Kurry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy mother of pumps Batman!
> Nice and clean. I like it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Beautifully done, yeah I think I want to redo my runs now lol great work


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing, but damn, it looks good, and looking good is the _raison d'etre_ for most of the builds on this site.


Thank you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow! Nice. I like.
> Is that three D5s?


Thanks, yes its 3 D5 with Alphacool tops. I upgraded from a acrylic Bitspower dualtop because i like the way of tubing and the clearance i get with the 3xAC








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh sick, pictures, good my head was about to explode. Thought I was in a classroom there for a minute. A bunch of good information and an intellectual debate no doubt, but pictures are good too.
> 
> Three D5's? Nice!


Thanks!


----------



## nepToon

Added some red dye.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Little update. Still *WIP* of course.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> Current progress ... with bad lighting.
> 
> 
> Up close and personal
> 
> 
> 
> Not too happy with the 290's temp though especially VRM1.


As Geg pointed out, I would highly recommend two things. Some medium grade Fujipoly thermal pads & some ceramic based TIM on both sides of said thermal pad. This has taken my VRM temps down by 4-6c compared to the stock EK pads w/o using TIM, on my titans.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> As Geg pointed out, I would highly recommend two things. Some medium grade Fujipoly thermal pads & some ceramic based TIM on both sides of said thermal pad. This has taken my VRM temps down by 4-6c compared to the stock EK pads w/o using TIM, on my titans.


Hmmm good tip, I'll have to keep that in mind when I put the 7870 under water


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Added some red dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that acrylic tubing? Looks great!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The new RX v3.....split fin and higher FPI than the usual RX....not sure if it will retain the king of quiet crown with these changes....


----------



## VSG

So a thicker AX variant?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Very nice Kurry. Is that a dye? That more subtle blueish tint kinda reminds me of Petra's old G13 antifreeze.

Though I think I woulda tried using all 45s in the area shown in first pic e.g. the CPU and MB blocks&#8230;?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Looks great, but I really hope you know that the water channel in the Maximus VI Formula is, if I remember correctly, anodized aluminum. Which if any of the pure aluminum surface under the anodized layer is exposed to your loop, you'll be subject to galvanic corrosion, since you almost 100% have copper radiators in your loop. It'll wreck havoc on your beautiful setup .


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Looks great, but I really hope you know that the water channel in the Maximus VI Formula is, if I remember correctly, anodized aluminum. Which if any of the pure aluminum surface under the anodized layer is exposed to your loop, you'll be subject to galvanic corrosion, since you almost 100% have copper radiators in your loop. It'll wreck havoc on your beautiful setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've been running mine since mid-august with the motherboard block included in the loop, and when I added the second card to the loop, I drained the loop and used the time to check on everything, since the mobo block was aluminum, results, absolutely nothing wrong in any of the blocks, it's a Type 3 Hard Coat Anodizing, your water loop will be fine.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> As Geg pointed out, I would highly recommend two things. Some medium grade Fujipoly thermal pads & some ceramic based TIM on both sides of said thermal pad. This has taken my VRM temps down by 4-6c compared to the stock EK pads w/o using TIM, on my titans.


Thanks. I'm going to get Fujipoly thermal pad but they don't available locally though. I'm trying to find alternative with similar thermal conductivity rating. I'll be using stock EK thermal pads for now, until I found better one.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Added some red dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Any shots with better light? I'm interested in the color of your coolant.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Very nice Kurry. Is that a dye? That more subtle blueish tint kinda reminds me of Petra's old G13 antifreeze.


it looks like the color of koolance coolant to me.


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Hi guys










what are these three things there? three pumps? or what is that, and if pumps, why 3?


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what are these three things there? three pumps? or what is that, and if pumps, why 3?


Ocn overkill, a backup to the backup.


----------



## Ice Reign

Just for my own clarification, when people are referring to DeltaT, is this assumed to be the difference between your water temperature and your ambient air?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Just for my own clarification, when people are referring to DeltaT, is this assumed to be the difference between your water temperature and your ambient air?


Yes sir, it is.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any pics of the whole build or a build log link


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Just for my own clarification, when people are referring to DeltaT, is this assumed to be the difference between your water temperature and your ambient air?


Sorry, wrong thread. That is correct though.


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes sir, it is.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's correct. I can't accurately measure my water temperature, so I'm just going off of my full load GPU temp. I know it's not the most accurate way to measure, but it gives me the information that I need.


Thanks folks. Yeah I have one of those XPSC water temp sensors but have yet to settle on where I want to mount it. It just hangs out. It works rather well as I compared it using a digital water probe and they were the same.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can't accurately measure my water temperature, so I'm just going off of my full load GPU temp. I know it's not the most accurate way to measure, but it gives me the information that I need.


See, even the resident industry rep doesn't use deltaT = 10C


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can't accurately measure my water temperature, so I'm just going off of my full load GPU temp. I know it's not the most accurate way to measure, but it gives me the information that I need.
> 
> 
> 
> See, even the resident industry rep doesn't use deltaT = 10C
Click to expand...

I LOL'd......Im sorry but I did..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> See, even the resident industry rep doesn't use deltaT = 10C


My deltaT is about 15 degrees, give or take. I'd like to get to around 10C, but I don't really think it's necessary. Not for my uses at least.


----------



## natsu2014

My FT02 rev 2.0










Yesterday did a small test and turned all the fans off to see how the temps will be and for 2500k @ 4.5 it was 71C and 670 stock 56C playing blacklist for 45m.


----------



## skupples

my GPU's run under 45c when under load, and the 5.0 3930k stays under 70c, that's good enough for me. I don't have a water temp sensor right now, so figuring out my "Delta-T" is a little challenging.


----------



## stickg1

What Z77 boards have aftermarket VRM blocks available for them besides the Maximus V lineup?

I love my MPOWER but I want VRM cooling.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> See, even the resident industry rep doesn't use deltaT = 10C


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I LOL'd......Im sorry but I did..


While that whole RoT/DeltaT debate was informative, I just glossed over most of it. RoT has always worked for me. I started with an i7 950 and GTX470 on a Thermochill 480 rad and temps were great. When I added a second GTX470, temps really didn't change a whole lot, Even after adding an RX240 temps didn't change much. I don't give a hoot about Deltas and a projected watts dissipated and all the math that goes with it. Like others have said, all I care about it if it's quiet and gives me lower temps than air. And of course if it looks pretty lol
Only reason I have water temp probes and air temp probes and all that jazz is purely curiosity. I like watching the numbers change as I change things around in my loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> See, even the resident industry rep doesn't use deltaT = 10C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My deltaT is about 15 degrees, give or take. I'd like to get to around 10C, but I don't really think it's necessary. Not for my uses at least.
Click to expand...

That on the 240 and 140 rad? 15c delta is good,nothing wrong with that at all
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> See, even the resident industry rep doesn't use deltaT = 10C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I LOL'd......Im sorry but I did..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> While that whole RoT/Delta debate was informative. I just glossed over most of it. RoT has always worked for me. I don't give a hoot about Deltas and a projected watts dissipated and all the math that goes with it. Like others have said, all I care about it if it's quiet and gives me lower temps than air. And of course if it looks pretty lol
> Only reason I have water temp probes and air temp probes and all that jazz is purely curiosity. I like watching the numbers change as I change things around in my loop.
Click to expand...

Everybody starts like that,then you add stuff ,remove stuff....just experimenting and remembering the numbers you stare at lovingly...

Dont get me wrong,I like using the delta to gauge how good a loop is..but this needs to be done with actual testing,not mathematical extrapolation when the base numbers are not known on one side of the equation.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That on the 240 and 140 rad?


There's a 360 in the roof as well.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> See, even the resident industry rep doesn't use deltaT = 10C


I think that target also causes some unrealistic expectations and angst.

I've seen folks scrap perfectly good cases, pumps, blocks and rads that are providing more-than-adequate cooling chasing down the 10C Delta, playing snake-oil games with coolant, getting all tied up in knots over flow rates, fighting religious wars about tubing diameter, all in the name of 10C Delta, when most times that is not necessary for their particular use-cases.

It's all well and good if that's a passion or its actually your goal for whatever reason, but I'm not keen on seeing "influential" members here and elsewhere make that target seem to be the end-all-be-all of water cooling. You end up with peer-pressure causing people to overbuild systems, or worse, be _unhappy_ with the perfectly good water cooled rig they're "stuck with" as they can't afford to chase that 10C unicorn any further.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I think that target also causes some unrealistic expectations and angst.
> 
> I've seen folks scrap perfectly good cases, pumps, blocks and rads that are providing more-than-adequate cooling chasing down the 10C Delta, playing snake-oil games with coolant, getting all tied up in knots over flow rates, fighting religious wars about tubing diameter, all in the name of 10C Delta, when most times that is not necessary for their particular use-cases.
> 
> It's all well and good if that's a passion or its actually your goal for whatever reason, but I'm not keen on seeing "influential" members here and elsewhere make that target seem to be the end-all-be-all of water cooling. You end up with peer-pressure causing people to overbuild systems, or worse, be _unhappy_ with the perfectly good water cooled rig they're "stuck with" as they can't afford to chase that 10C unicorn any further.


Yeah, and it can add up pretty quickly. When I first started watching Singularity's videos about 6 years ago or so that's where I got the idea for needing a 10C DeltaT. What I didn't realize though is that he lives in Australia where he really needs that temp because of his ambient temps. For most users it just isn't necessary. I think even in his case he could probably be fine with even a 15C DeltaT. That guy is really meticulous though and I love watching his build videos.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I think that target also causes some unrealistic expectations and angst.
> 
> I've seen folks scrap perfectly good cases, pumps, blocks and rads that are providing more-than-adequate cooling chasing down the 10C Delta, playing snake-oil games with coolant, getting all tied up in knots over flow rates, fighting religious wars about tubing diameter, all in the name of 10C Delta, when most times that is not necessary for their particular use-cases.
> 
> It's all well and good if that's a passion or its actually your goal for whatever reason, but I'm not keen on seeing "influential" members here and elsewhere make that target seem to be the end-all-be-all of water cooling. You end up with peer-pressure causing people to overbuild systems, or worse, be _unhappy_ with the perfectly good water cooled rig they're "stuck with" as they can't afford to chase that 10C unicorn any further.


Absolutely agree.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> See, even the resident industry rep doesn't use deltaT = 10C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that target also causes some unrealistic expectations and angst.
> 
> I've seen folks scrap perfectly good cases, pumps, blocks and rads that are providing more-than-adequate cooling chasing down the 10C Delta, playing snake-oil games with coolant, getting all tied up in knots over flow rates, fighting religious wars about tubing diameter, all in the name of 10C Delta, when most times that is not necessary for their particular use-cases.
> 
> It's all well and good if that's a passion or its actually your goal for whatever reason, but I'm not keen on seeing "influential" members here and elsewhere make that target seem to be the end-all-be-all of water cooling. You end up with peer-pressure causing people to overbuild systems, or worse, be _unhappy_ with the perfectly good water cooled rig they're "stuck with" as they can't afford to chase that 10C unicorn any further.
Click to expand...



This is worth rep all day long.

A well thought out post and it explains how I feel about it perfectly.

Normally at this point some one pipes up with 'its OCN,pursuit of performance' as if thats justification....

Using mathematical abstraction makes everything seem bigger than it is,normally greatly exaggerating the perceived issue.


----------



## Valgaur

I have a favor to ask all of you guys in the Watercooling department.... I am trying to hunt down a waterblock for my incoming SR-2 for a watercooling build and it's getting quite hard to pinpoint one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I have a favor to ask all of you guys in the Watercooling department.... I am trying to hunt down a waterblock for my incoming SR-2 for a watercooling build and it's getting quite hard to pinpoint one.


What flavour you want it in?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What flavour you want it in?


either black or clear frosted I'm not really picky but my MSI 780 lightning blocks are black and nickle


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What flavour you want it in?
> 
> 
> 
> either black or clear frosted I'm not really picky but my MSI 780 lightning blocks are black and nickle
Click to expand...

No,I meant what manufacturer...


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,I meant what manufacturer...


i don't care really lol as long as i can try to find one


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> That helps a lot. 30mm, right? If it is, my plan is ready to go.


Not my build ... Ryan is active here on OCN and also on Tomshardware where I stole the pic from


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What Z77 boards have aftermarket VRM blocks available for them besides the Maximus V lineup?
> 
> I love my MPOWER but I want VRM cooling.


gigabyte up7 (xspc)
asus z77 sabertooth (heatkiller)

i was fortunate to snag a vrm block for my oc formula from mips before it closed up shop


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Not my build ... Ryan is active here on OCN and also on Tomshardware where I stole the pic from


Who 4Ryan6? He's one of the few forum friends I have that I've had the pleasure of meeting in person. Good guy.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well, once again, it's simply good posting etiquette-why the multi button exists besides convenience-plus one space saving difference is I only see your sig once.


I gets a bit hard methinks when posts cover 5 different topics and I'll bet that a lot of responses get lost that way. I will make the effort to make a single post but I might log in in the morning at 10 am and answer a ticker from an e-mail..... then look at e-mail again at 4 pm and answer another....and as it turns out tho, due to inactivity on the thread, the posts wind up sequential. As far as buttons go, what's needed is a delete button. That wud make accidents easy to correct..... the other one is ya log in after 2 days on some threads and ya have 10 pages to read..... I generally only quote the line(s) I am responding to but if there was a pic referenced and someone wants to see it, they go back 5, 6, 7 pages and give up. Again, I think it makes the most sense most of the time .... but there are exceptions and a way to get rid of "accidents' would be a great help.
Quote:


> I am wondering if people generally use anti-corrosion additives? I thought biocide was really all I had to be concerned with for sure, provided I don't "mix metals" which as far as I know I had not done. But if there is any chance of the below happening again then... (so far it hasn't; I left that loops water way too long and it was off probably 65% of that time too tho).
> 
> (Again soaking this block in Pine Sol + distilled and also scrubbing totally saved it and I thought it was ruined for sure).


If ya use Mayhems Pastels, X1, XT-1, or Aurora, then ya using an anti-corrosive.

We are already using mixed metals...

-copper and brass rads (tin solder)
-nickel and copper blocks

Three conditions must be met in order fro corrosion to occur

1. Dissimilar metals must be present
2. Metals must be in electrical contact
3. Metals must both be exposed to an electrolyte (something in coolant)

take any one of the 3 out and no corrosion

If ya wanna see the most extensive cleaning job ever, look at

http://www.overclock.net/t/1200435/my-apogee-gtx-fail-epic-example-of-galvanic-corrosion

That block was Alum + Copper with direct metal contact and he had copper sulfate (an electrolyte) in the coolant......so the aluminum was practically designed to self destruct. His copper came clean with Toilet Cleaner gel

More good reading and pics here
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,I meant what manufacturer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i don't care really lol as long as i can try to find one
Click to expand...

Leave it with me...I know some guys that can hook you up....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Leave it with me...I know some guys that can hook you up....


6 missing organs later...

Charlieeeeee....CHARRRRLIEEEEEE


----------



## lowfat

Part of the don't care about delta, flow rate, or temperatures crew. As long as my overclock is stable and my system is quiet, that is all that matters.


----------



## Kurry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Very nice Kurry. Is that a dye? That more subtle blueish tint kinda reminds me of Petra's old G13 antifreeze.
> 
> Though I think I woulda tried using all 45s in the area shown in first pic e.g. the CPU and MB blocks&#8230;?


Its Mayhem Dye Deep Blue 3drops per liter. Hm... dont know if 45s will look better...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Looks great, but I really hope you know that the water channel in the Maximus VI Formula is, if I remember correctly, anodized aluminum. Which if any of the pure aluminum surface under the anodized layer is exposed to your loop, you'll be subject to galvanic corrosion, since you almost 100% have copper radiators in your loop. It'll wreck havoc on your beautiful setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yes. Im using Innovatek Protect (famous anti-korro because Innovatek stil uses aluminium products with copper). I didnt hear of any problems yet and well, i clean my components once every year anyways. If necessary i still can buy the EK Kit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Ocn overkill, a backup to the backup.


Pedal to the metal!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Any pics of the whole build or a build log link


Coming. Im still waiting for parts to cover the drivebay :-/

So, here its all for now (dirty drivebys. sorry...)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Part of the don't care about delta, flow rate, or temperatures crew. As long as my overclock is stable and my system is quiet, that is all that matters.


Just the man i need to speak to.

Sorry..







but...

I got some macro lenses that screw on to my standard Canon 18/55 AF lens,what can i adjust so the AF works properly with it fitted?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Leave it with me...I know some guys that can hook you up....


Let me know!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 6 missing organs later...
> 
> Charlieeeeee....CHARRRRLIEEEEEE


Exactly


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just the man i need to speak to.
> 
> Sorry..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but...
> 
> I got some macro lenses that screw on to my standard Canon 18/55 AF lens,what can i adjust so the AF works properly with it fitted?


Wait, you screw the new lens in to your original lens? If so AF will never work. Either way I am a fan of manual focus when it comes to something stationary.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just the man i need to speak to.
> 
> Sorry..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but...
> 
> I got some macro lenses that screw on to my standard Canon 18/55 AF lens,what can i adjust so the AF works properly with it fitted?


Are you talking about something like the Raynox DCR-150/250? If so, and actually for all macro purposes, I always recommend manual focus. Also, open up the f-stop and ISO (enough to not produce any noise) to get within a 1/focal distance of shutter speed.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just the man i need to speak to.
> 
> Sorry..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but...
> 
> I got some macro lenses that screw on to my standard Canon 18/55 AF lens,what can i adjust so the AF works properly with it fitted?
> 
> 
> 
> Are you talking about something like the Raynox DCR-150/250? If so, and actually for all macro purposes, I always recommend manual focus. Also, open up the f-stop and ISO (enough to not produce any noise) to get within a 1/focal distance of shutter speed.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just the man i need to speak to.
> 
> Sorry..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but...
> 
> I got some macro lenses that screw on to my standard Canon 18/55 AF lens,what can i adjust so the AF works properly with it fitted?
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, you screw the new lens in to your original lens? If so AF will never work. Either way I am a fan of manual focus when it comes to something stationary.
Click to expand...

Camera's are my kryptonite...

The view window with my 350d is muy small and im short sighted.....


----------



## VSG

Let's take this in the photograph your rig thread, or just PM me if you have any questions and I will try to help out.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thanks, Jack. +rep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Its Mayhem Dye Deep Blue 3drops per liter. Hm... dont know if 45s will look better...


Fair enough; looks are subjective. The only thing that really made me think that is for uniformity; everything else is 45s around there (and would be less bend from mb block to left cpu port probably).

Yeah Deep Blue will be my first Mayhems I think.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Let's take this in the photograph your rig thread, or just PM me if you have any questions and I will try to help out.


Now i know the AF doesnt work,I have been playing with it...


----------



## Kurry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Thanks, Jack. +rep
> Fair enough; looks are subjective. The only thing that really made me think that is for uniformity; everything else is 45s around there (and would be less bend from mb block to left cpu port probably).
> 
> Yeah Deep Blue will be my first Mayhems I think.


Yea, uniformity might be a reason, but 45s between MB and CPU will look terrible because they are so close together. i dont think there is a Problem with bends, the Primo LRT is rigid as f*** ;-)

Mayhems Dye are epic!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now i know the AF doesnt work,I have been playing with it...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not bad at all, what gear are you using?


----------



## lowfat

Macroing without live view is such a pain in the rear. Even with a tripod moving the camera a mm or two can break focus. What are you using for lighting in those pics?


----------



## VSG

Ya, even a cheap macro rail will help so much! I eventually gave in and got the Canon EF 100 mm IS L and the MR-14 EX flash for my macro stuff but I still pull out the macro rail at times.


----------



## kpoeticg

BNEG, you talking about Macro Filters ?

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Macroing without live view is such a pain in the rear. Even with a tripod moving the camera a mm or two can break focus. What are you using for lighting in those pics?


I can attest to that. I hate not having live view in my camera. I'm thinking of buying an Eyepiece Magnifier for it. I got my 35mm lens on the way, and i can't picture trying to manual focus with it in macro. The Evolt E500 has a TINY viewfinder


----------



## derickwm

Watercooling too hard guis. This is all I can do  hope it counts as club membership.










halp! mebe someday I watercool my ramz.


----------



## VSG

Tiborr would not be pleased









Are you going to put those lightnings under water?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Again,this thread is littered with RoT based rigs,all working very well. You also have not factored any loss in to your math,because a component uses 200w doesnt mean it transfers 200w lossless in to the loop. You have no evidence of what actual heat wattage is transferred into the water,all you have is Martins dissipation rates for rads,one side of the math has quantifiable tests while the other does not.. Using a pure math test when one side of the equation is an unknown variable is fail.


There are no unknowns,..... you keep pointing out "missing" data and then I repeatedly go to the post you're responding to and pointing it out. As for the yet another false claim about not accounting for "loss"..... Wrong again. ... First of all there is no "loss".... unless maybe with the same magic that makes the RoT "work" y .... energy can not be created or destroyed. What you do have is multiple methods of heat transfer

1. Water to Rad to Air
2. Direct Transfer to Air from WB Surfaces, Rad Shroud surfaces, tubing, fittings, components surfaces, etc

So in the last example given .....in the post you are quoting, it very clearly indicates that 60% = the amount of heat transferred to water *as has been presented quite clearly in each and every example*.

Maybe ya didn't see this part .... The 840 watts = total load .... The 505 watts = heat transferred to water. The 335 watts is not what is "lost" but what is transferred by means.
Quote:


> 350 x 2 + 140 = 840 watts *x 60%* = 504 watts or @ 8 x 120mm $ 1250 rpm / 4 x 120mm @ 2200 rpm


You keep throwing out claims when all the data presented is easily verifiable from published sources..... how many times have we done this ?

"The 35x2 can't put out 50+ watts" ... it very clearly did in the published test
"The method is based on oversized PSU Calculator data"..... no it isn't, it's based upon actual power meter readings as per the published tests
"The method doesn't account for people who aren't looking for 10C".... yes it does, you adjust the recommended for the Delta T you are willing to live with
"The method doesn't account for the amount of heat not transferred to water" ..... it very clearly does.
Quote:


> You are also labouring under the assumption that more rad cannot be added and,as previously stated...many times,the RoT is a balance of silence and performance.


To accomplish what ? Since you have no idea where you are .... how can you ascertain where the additions do for you. I just used the RoT for my two build.... one is a 240 watt OC's 4960 and the other is a stock 70 watt i5. What is the logic path using the RoT for deciding whether to add ? With all ya statements about not needing 10C "heat loss" and all the heat not getting to the rad, the thinnest rad with the slowest (600 rpm) fans provides 96 watts at 10C ..... please explain why the RoT is not a fail when it is having me buy a 96 watt solution for a 70 watt load....gets even further "out there" if we accept the 20C argument..... now I have 275% of the cooling I need.
Quote:


> Also, The 10c delta is arbitrary and artificial, its not rooted in anything,its just a value placed there by Martin which everybody accepts.


Really ?.....I posted 3 sites that used it so it's not just Martin ..... but I am very interested in these other sites that base their test results randomly on a "acceptable delta T of the day" .... or 20C or a number other than 10C. How
Quote:


> So,again,show me the evidence that the RoT fails


Three times I asked and you refuse to answer how the RoT is working for the 4 x 290x system / 4960 system with the (that's a 27C delta T and 60+C summer coolant temps).... I asked you how it works on a 70 watt CPU loop (6.5C Delta T). If you can't answer the questions that have been repeatedly been put to you, then you must have no answers. The only explanation for no answer is that the RoT fails. In one instance your system is way undersized, in another it's way oversized.
Quote:


> ,practical examples or the whole tested math,including the actual wattage transferred in to the water.


I keep posting it, like all the other data you have claimed isn't there, you still don't "see it". ...... It came from perusing threads, seeing what Delta T was for those that had the ability to report it, looking at martins calculators, and comparing the calculated load versus actual Delta T ..... plotting the results produced a large cluster on points at 60% .... is the 60% a guaranteed number which will work in every instance ?.........Everything was pretty much clustered near 60% and just a few points straying but by a small deviation. Certainly not like the huge spread ya get from the 70 watt and 1635 watt examples I asked you to validate using the RoT.

It's a work in progress while 60% seems to be working as an average (that includes heat from PSU also) .... we're working to refine it more closely using separate numbers for each component. With temp in / temp out sensors, I am able to measure exactly what happens. With enough data points to feel reasonably confident about the 60%, I took a 1st shot at allocating it to individual components

CPU = 90% (of actual measured load)
MoB VRM = say 15 watts x 90% (guess)
GPUs = 70% (of actual measured load)
Pump = 100% (not a load measurement, actual heat measurement from published test .... probably still high as some heat radiated by heat sink.)

On my system, at measured live loads using on board sensors, the total came to 380.7 watts
Looking at the temp meters, and Martins test data for the Rads, the temps indicate a dissipation of 373.8

That's 1 data point....so at this point I have no real confidence that the allocations are valid. Over the next week or 2 I will add various other points by varying the load to the system.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Watercooling too hard guis. This is all I can do  hope it counts as club membership.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> halp! mebe someday I watercool my ramz.


Oh the irony working for EKWB...


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Tiborr would not be pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to put those lightnings under water?


He's already sold them I bet.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Watercooling too hard guis. This is all I can do  hope it counts as club membership.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> halp! mebe someday I watercool my ramz.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh the irony working for EKWB...
Click to expand...

They hired me for my looks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Tiborr would not be pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to put those lightnings under water?
> 
> 
> 
> He's already sold them I bet.
Click to expand...

Ohstopityou. Where's my Thunderbolt card!?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now i know the AF doesnt work,I have been playing with it...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad at all, what gear are you using?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Macroing without live view is such a pain in the rear. Even with a tripod moving the camera a mm or two can break focus. What are you using for lighting in those pics?


I'm using a 350d with the crap stock lens and a eBay cheapo macro lens on the front screw mount.

Light is a Ikea desk lamp thru a white pillowcase.

Ghetto fabulous,all day


----------



## Jameswalt1

Some Aqualis action, still lots of air bubbles obviously


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm using a 350d with the crap stock lens and a eBay cheapo macro lens on the front screw mount.
> 
> Light is a Ikea desk lamp thru a white pillowcase.
> 
> Ghetto fabulous,all day


Replace the cheapo macro lens on the front with extension tubes (can be as cheap as this one) that go between the camera body and the lens. Heck, I think I have a set of non-AF extension tubes somewhere that I can just send to you if you want. The advantage of extension tubes is that there is no glass other than what's required thus keeping the light as "true" as it should be and that also prevents the loss of 1-2 f-stops. The magnification ratio also increases depending on the length of the extension tubes used.

If you got a better budget, look for Kenko AF extension tubes. For some reason they went up in price from ~$60-70 to almost $200 in retail but can be found cheaper on eBay. I have those as well and they are well worth the money.


----------



## John Freeman

It has been completed! I'm happy with it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Watercooling too hard guis. This is all I can do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope it counts as club membership.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> halp! mebe someday I watercool my ramz.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh the irony working for EKWB...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *They hired me for my looks.
> *
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Tiborr would not be pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to put those lightnings under water?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He's already sold them I bet.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ohstopityou. Where's my Thunderbolt card!?
Click to expand...

They told me they hired me for my brains, both of 'em . . .

D.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys is this the probe thats used to measure water temps/delta..? http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1363&products_id=26018 Would be using this on/in my res if so....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys is this the probe thats used to measure water temps/delta..? http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1363&products_id=26018 Would be using this on/in my res if so....


Yup, that should work great for measuring your liquid temps


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They told me they hired me for my brains, both of 'em . . .
> 
> D.


Nice brains!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys is this the probe thats used to measure water temps/delta..? http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1363&products_id=26018 Would be using this on/in my res if so....


That will work. You can also get another version with female G 1/4 threads on both sides of the sensor making it effectively an in-line temperature sensor if that's something you would rather have. In the end, the average loop temperature from one point to another won't vary a whole lot (hopefully!).


----------



## MiiX

Should work as long as you got G1/4 threads on the res.
To slow...

Beaten by a squirrel...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice brains!


ROFLMAO,


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> ROFLMAO,


Sorry. Couldn't resist. So how's water cooling been treatin' ya?!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Sorry. Couldn't resist. So how's water cooling been treatin' ya?!


Good, kinda a pain in the booty having 3 concurrent builds going on. Waiting for the last parts to arrive, then 3 build logs get started, lol.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> They hired me for my looks.
> 
> Ohstopityou. Where's my Thunderbolt card!?


Sitting on my bed because I've been swamped with work. I'm done with class tomorrow after 1:15 so that's when it will be going out


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They told me they hired me for my brains, both of 'em . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice brains!
Click to expand...

Nice flirt!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys is this the probe thats used to measure water temps/delta..? http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_1363&products_id=26018 Would be using this on/in my res if so....


Yeah man, I just installed mine yesterday. It works great but I was planning on just double-sided taping it to my motherboard tray, but the 2-pin temp probe connector sticks directly out the back of it. So I either gotta drill a hole or figure something out. I put a piece of electrical tape on the bottom (just to be sure) and set it right on top my GPU until I figure something out. Other than that, great product and cheap too.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Good, kinda a pain in the booty having 3 concurrent builds going on. Waiting for the last parts to arrive, then 3 build logs get started, lol.


3 builds!!







I'm tied up on one build. Well it is my first water cooling experience. Waiting for more tubing to arrive from PPC. Hopefully I'll be able to complete my loop finally.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Nice flirt!


Shhhhh...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Part of the don't care about delta, flow rate, or temperatures crew. As long as my overclock is stable and my system is quiet, that is all that matters.


Well said, I'm in this club too


----------



## Sturdius

Here's my Fractal Arc XL. I'm not crazy about the look of the tubing from the bottom GPU to the 240 rad, but I'm not sure how to make it look nicer.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sturdius*
> 
> Here's my Fractal Arc XL. I'm not crazy about the look of the tubing from the bottom GPU to the 240 rad, but I'm not sure how to make it look nicer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A couple 90's would be a good place to start . . .

or a 90 on the gpu, and a 45 on the rad

to the right from the GPU, and down from the rad

Darlene


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sturdius*
> 
> Here's my Fractal Arc XL. I'm not crazy about the look of the tubing from the bottom GPU to the 240 rad, but I'm not sure how to make it look nicer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not sure if that bridge would let you do it this way but, you could move the bottom hose to the top and put a plug were the tube is now. So then in would be top left and out is top right. Then use a 90 degree fitting on the out so the tube runs straight to the GPU


----------



## stickg1

I'd try both ports on the top and/or the use of 90° fittings.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Maybe another single 120 or 140 rad on the bottom between PSU and drive bays?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatBrotato*


Anyone have a link to the type of riser card he's using?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Anyone have a link to the type of riser card he's using?


Did you ask him????


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Did you ask him????


Yeah I sent him a PM a few minutes ago, but I figured I'd ask here too in case I got a quicker response.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yup, that should work great for measuring your liquid temps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That will work. You can also get another version with female G 1/4 threads on both sides of the sensor making it effectively an in-line temperature sensor if that's something you would rather have. In the end, the average loop temperature from one point to another won't vary a whole lot (hopefully!).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah man, I just installed mine yesterday. It works great but I was planning on just double-sided taping it to my motherboard tray, but the 2-pin temp probe connector sticks directly out the back of it. So I either gotta drill a hole or figure something out. I put a piece of electrical tape on the bottom (just to be sure) and set it right on top my GPU until I figure something out. Other than that, great product and cheap too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the help guys....

@ stickg1....Do you happen to have a pic of the back of the sensor....? Just curious to see where those 2pin temps probes are placed.....


----------



## stickg1

It's in the top middle. I can take a pic tomorrow night for you.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It's in the top middle. I can take a pic tomorrow night for you.


No prob,i was just wondering if i could put double sided tape just around the far edges to keep it in place,i would mount mine on the 5.23 drive bay....


----------



## DatBrotato

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Anyone have a link to the type of riser card he's using?


]
I pm'd you
here's the link to it:http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/pci-express/30025


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

This is by far the longest thread that I've actively kept up with over the years. So many great new builds on every page and tons of smart and helpful peeps always ready to chime in with advice or even just to talk to when the rest of the site is slow. I really appreciate all of you guys in this thread!


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> This is by far the longest thread that I've actively kept up with over the years. So many great new builds on every page and tons of smart and helpful peeps always ready to chime in with advice or even just to talk to when the rest of the site is slow. I really appreciate all of you guys in this thread!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ambient-water 10C is arbitrary, 13.5C works just as well. For Jack's purposes, 10C is handy because that's what Martin measures, but there's no consensus. For example, Bundymania measures CPU delta at certain fan speeds, and there's plenty of people (more in Europe) who base their purchase choices on his data.


In every industry or "field" if you prefer.... there exists standards ..... some are formulated by committees of experts and some just wind up in use "by default" and many of those later reaffirmed by committees. The typical and most widely acceptable one for automobile acceleration is 0 - 60 mph (0 - 100kmh).........it's "what everyone here in the US at least uses". Standards are created often by the 1st person to develop testing procedures. For something to be adopted it generally had to be easily understood and easily used and applicable to something people can identify with.....60 mph was a pretty consistent speed limit and it became a standard because it was easily identified with....it's how long it takes the car to get to highway speeds. Why is it a standard ? Cause there's almost no one out there testing acceleration by any other criteria, so it becomes a "standard by default".

I previously provided 3 separate websites who all refer to 10C .... reading them se see as a goal for performance reasons. Looking at the WC stickies on most sites and see how many mention 10C versus any other specific number. Again, a standard by default. Why do many of us consider 10C as a standard ? From the 2nd link:
Quote:


> A CPU loop needs a good DT. Under 10°C is just fine, getting closer to 5°C is very nice and important if you want big overclocks. Getting under 5°C is just overdoing it, unless you're very extreme, need it for benching or just want a challenge. On an average CPU loop shoot for under 10°C and adjust your overclocks to be fine under the temperatures suggested by the CPU and GPU manufacturers.


You don't have to agree, and again, more relevant back in the day when it was written, but when you look around the web, this by far the most common recommendation. So why 10C ?

1. Most of the test data out there is at 10C. How useful would any rad testing be if all the test were all done at different Delta T's ? How would anyone know what is better than watt if Rad A is tested at 15C, Rad B is tested at 10C and Rad C is tested at 20C..... you have 3 sets of useless information that can not be compared.
2. It makes the math easy....most of us us base 10 math so it's easily used.
3. Looking at many of the old sites postings, it's what the serious OC crowd considered their target.....more relevant back in the day when temps rather than voltage was most often the limiting factor but 10C has been around long time.
4. It's a number that pursuing performance beyond that point shows little significant ROI

But no, 13.5C doesn't work "just as well" as 10C..... it works almost as well. Both may be "acceptable" to some or even most but 13.5 simply in not as good as 10.0 anymore than 4.4 Ghz is "just as good" as 4.6.

I presented an example in my post:

A user has a case that allows for the installation of the following two options with no difficulties, inconveniences or other objections either way. In the example, both had the same fan speeds.....the cheaper one had push / pull, the more expensive one just push.

Option 1 - $225 for 13.5C
Option 2 - $226 for 10.0C

Will he / she spend an additional $1 for the extra 3.5C ? ..... if so, then it obviously isn't performing "just as well" as people are willing to pay more for it.

I have absolutely no problem with 13.5C, as long as the 10C option doesn't exist or is cost prohibitive. But I think 99+ % of the people faced with that choice are gonna spend the dollar (those are real current prices BTW) . ..... I wud never set a goal of 13.5C but I might "settle for it"..... likely even be content with it .....I started out with a goal of 10C and wound up with 12.4. Quite happy with it. But I can't find any data for 12.4 or 13.5..... no one publishes tests at 12.4 or 13.5 so the logical path was to use 10.0.

Getting back to the 4.4 vs 4.6 comparison......will I get my CAD drawings done any faster, my letters typed any faster, my game experience improve at 4.6 versus 4.4 Absolutely not, the bottleneck in all of thes eis the human at the keyboard. But my goal in building the system was to conquer the challenge of getting to 4.6 (Got it)...... My goal in building the system was to get a 25% OC on the GFC cards ..... (Got it) ..... my goal in building the WC system was to get to both those goals at 10C. I think when I get to the point where I max both CPU and GFX at the same time I will be right at 12.4C.. But I have had to suspend much of that activity for the moment.

My tests so far this week (stock speeds on everything) using on board and installed sensors showed a measured heat load of 373.8 watts compared with the 367 watts predicted by the original model. Could be dumb luck, won't know till I get some more tests done. And Asus has thrown a monkey wrench in the machine by throwing out 2 BIOSs in a row that they since withdrew, then a 3rd that borked all 6 of my stable OC profiles, leaving me betwixt and between whether to go forward with 1203 or back to 0804.....and with the kids home from "Kolludge" and a business to run with client's wanting to make sure their construction plans are ready for Spring .... just haven't had as much time. But others are showing interest, other sites and bloggers have endorsed and hopefully they'll be more bodies and systems available soon for more data points. No reason it can't be done..... when we design HVAC systems we can tell ya within a degree or 2 what temps we can hit with what equipment when it's 100F outside.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A couple 90's would be a good place to start . . .
> 
> or a 90 on the gpu, and a 45 on the rad
> 
> to the right from the GPU, and down from the rad
> 
> Darlene


Looks great the way it is, never been a fan of 90's unless 100% necessary, call me old school.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some Aqualis action, still lots of air bubbles obviously
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Does anyone know if someone makes a res with a bottom inlet and a riser tube like this that doesn't require a pump that's connected directly to it? I looked at the aqualis eco, but it doesn't look like the riser tube is functional. I'm not sure though.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice! Does anyone know if someone makes a res with a bottom inlet and a riser tube like this that doesn't require a pump that's connected directly to it? I looked at the aqualis eco, but it doesn't look like the riser tube is functional. I'm not sure though.


Depending on what the riser tube from the bottom would be used for, aqualis has the "waterfall" or "fountain" option (I forget what it's called) that lets the water go up through the tube and cascade down the sides like a fountain......


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Depending on what the riser tube from the bottom would be used for, aqualis has the "waterfall" or "fountain" option (I forget what it's called) that lets the water go up through the tube and cascade down the sides like a fountain......


It looks like all of the water fountain versions require a pump to be attached. I'd like both in and out connections to be at the bottom, but the inlet to use a riser tube that would expel the water at the top of the reservoir.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I'm using EK coolant and noticed a foamy or excess bubbles when the pump is set to high.


When the pump is set to low, the bubbles settle down and foam disappears.


Is this normal? Any tips to reduce the foaming while the pump is set to high? This pump is sick, it blasts right through all my blocks like nothing, even on low speed.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using EK coolant and noticed a foamy or excess bubbles when the pump is set to high.
> 
> 
> When the pump is set to low, the bubbles settle down and foam disappears.
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Any tips to reduce the foaming while the pump is set to high? This pump is sick, it blasts right through all my blocks like nothing, even on low speed.


topping it off may help. Looks like turbulence, which is causing the fluid to froth.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> topping it off may help. Looks like turbulence, which is causing the fluid to froth.


This ^^^^^^, that res should be about an inch of airspace at the top, NOT half full


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> topping it off may help. Looks like turbulence, which is causing the fluid to froth.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> This ^^^^^^, that res should be about an inch of airspace at the top, NOT half full


Kk, that's for the tip. I'll try that tomorrow. I also need a better way to drain my loop without having to flip my case upside down


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm using EK coolant and noticed a foamy or excess bubbles when the pump is set to high.
> 
> 
> When the pump is set to low, the bubbles settle down and foam disappears.
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Any tips to reduce the foaming while the pump is set to high? This pump is sick, it blasts right through all my blocks like nothing, even on low speed.


I got the same thing when filling my loop. It settle down after few minutes when the coolant circulated the entire loop. I have D5 Vario at 5.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Need some help trying to understand this rad,i'm looking at the Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 280mm

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1247_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-280mm.html

My problem is i'm trying to make sure the measurements are correct, which cnt be right,its a 280 rad which measures 278mm in length....
What i dnt quite understand is that another rad i have been thinking of getting (EX 240) measures 275mm,so how comes on their website this particular rad is 278mm being a 280 rad....Did they just measure the fan area alone....


----------



## brandon6199




----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need some help trying to understand this rad,i'm looking at the Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 280mm
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1247_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-280mm.html
> 
> My problem is i'm trying to make sure the measurements are correct, which cnt be right,its a 280 rad which measures 278mm in length....
> What i dnt quite understand is that another rad i have been thinking of getting (EX 240) measures 275mm,so how comes on their website this particular rad is 278mm being a 280 rad....Did they just measure the fan area alone....


The others (XT45, UT60, Monsta) are all 324mm, so I'd guess that one is also.


----------



## kpoeticg

The EX's are the lowest profile rads that i know of. That's why i ended up grabbin one for my build. They'll take up less space than any other rad i know of on both axis'


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ambient-water 10C is arbitrary, 13.5C works just as well. For Jack's purposes, 10C is handy because that's what Martin measures, but there's no consensus. For example, Bundymania measures CPU delta at certain fan speeds, and there's plenty of people (more in Europe) who base their purchase choices on his data.
> 
> 
> 
> In every industry or "field" if you prefer.... there exists standards ..... some are formulated by committees of experts and some just wind up in use "by default" and many of those later reaffirmed by committees. The typical and most widely acceptable one for automobile acceleration is 0 - 60 mph (0 - 100kmh).........it's "what everyone here in the US at least uses". Standards are created often by the 1st person to develop testing procedures. For something to be adopted it generally had to be easily understood and easily used and applicable to something people can identify with.....60 mph was a pretty consistent speed limit and it became a standard because it was easily identified with....it's how long it takes the car to get to highway speeds. Why is it a standard ? Cause there's almost no one out there testing acceleration by any other criteria, so it becomes a "standard by default".
> 
> I previously provided 3 separate websites who all refer to 10C .... reading them se see as a goal for performance reasons. Looking at the WC stickies on most sites and see how many mention 10C versus any other specific number. Again, a standard by default. Why do many of us consider 10C as a standard ? From the 2nd link:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A CPU loop needs a good DT. Under 10°C is just fine, getting closer to 5°C is very nice and important if you want big overclocks. Getting under 5°C is just overdoing it, unless you're very extreme, need it for benching or just want a challenge. On an average CPU loop shoot for under 10°C and adjust your overclocks to be fine under the temperatures suggested by the CPU and GPU manufacturers.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You don't have to agree, and again, more relevant back in the day when it was written, but when you look around the web, this by far the most common recommendation. So why 10C ?
> 
> 1. Most of the test data out there is at 10C. How useful would any rad testing be if all the test were all done at different Delta T's ? How would anyone know what is better than watt if Rad A is tested at 15C, Rad B is tested at 10C and Rad C is tested at 20C..... you have 3 sets of useless information that can not be compared.
> 2. It makes the math easy....most of us us base 10 math so it's easily used.
> 3. Looking at many of the old sites postings, it's what the serious OC crowd considered their target.....more relevant back in the day when temps rather than voltage was most often the limiting factor but 10C has been around long time.
> 4. It's a number that pursuing performance beyond that point shows little significant ROI
Click to expand...

And all of those sites reference Skinnee labs which in turn got it from Martin...all of your points of reference have the same bloody source. So,yes,the 10c delta was arbitrarily placed by Martin as a reference.
You even say yourself,its makes the math easy..making the math easy doesnt equate to RL use use does it?

Now,I have posted _practical_ demonstrations of a high end 6 core rig with 3 heavy OC'd 780's with less than half the RoT with a 22c delta @1000RPM..you think adding one card and over doubling the rad space allocated will 'not work'?
The swiftech rep on here has just over 2 360's cooling a 680 and a 6 core AMD chip...with a 15c delta @800 rpm...double the RoT...and still not at 10c Delta. But this is not acceptable? You are advocating yet more rad?
Ridiculous.
You have watercoolers (other than me) saying exactly the same thing,yet you dont seem to be taking any notice....

Testing a rad at those delta's is fine,expecting someone to tailor a loop to that delta is over reaching and unnecessary . 10c has been around a long time...so has the RoT,its not something I invented.

Now,the 60% you are pushing is based on what exactly? Break down the 40% loss showing where the loss is,does this include the PSU 10-20% loss?

In short,RoT does work,it will provide adequate cooling for all rigs,not once did anyone say it would provide a 10c Delta across all platforms.

Also,expecting the 35x to draw 18w when Swiftech have it on their spec sheet as 18w is not unreasonable,certainly nothing for you to crow about.
http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x12vdcpump.aspx#tab3


----------



## Majentrix

This rad is gigantic, my case can barely fit it.
Can't wait to integrate it into the loop.


----------



## kpoeticg

I see another HAF XB build









My UT60 120 gets in the way of my Trident X Heatspreaders on that side of the board. I'm either gonna have to mod the heatspreaders or put another mod on the list for my XB. I was already planning on making a scratch top for it. It's the little edge that the top latches to above the 120 mount that's gonna be more of an issue. I'm gonna have to clip that whole ledge off if i wanna raise my rad up a little bit


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Is that acrylic tubing? Looks great!


Thanks. Yes, 12/16 HD Tube with the matching HD Adapters/Fittings.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Depending on what the riser tube from the bottom would be used for, aqualis has the "waterfall" or "fountain" option (I forget what it's called) that lets the water go up through the tube and cascade down the sides like a fountain......
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like all of the water fountain versions require a pump to be attached. I'd like both in and out connections to be at the bottom, but the inlet to use a riser tube that would expel the water at the top of the reservoir.
Click to expand...

Why not make your own . . .

The Bitspower water tanks make an excellent base to start from since they comes in multiple lengths, and you can get single port, double port or triple port end caps for them, you can customize the setup to your needs.

Use a C47 on the inside of the cap inlet port and some E22 tube.

You could even add a cathode as well . . .

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Depending on what the riser tube from the bottom would be used for, aqualis has the "waterfall" or "fountain" option (I forget what it's called) that lets the water go up through the tube and cascade down the sides like a fountain......
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like all of the water fountain versions require a pump to be attached. I'd like both in and out connections to be at the bottom, but the inlet to use a riser tube that would expel the water at the top of the reservoir.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why not make your own . . .
> 
> The Bitspower water tanks make an excellent base to start from since they comes in multiple lengths, and you can get single port, double port or triple port end caps for them, you can customize the setup to your needs.
> 
> Use a C47 on the inside of the cap inlet port and some E22 tube.
> 
> You could even add a cathode as well . . .
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Still your best homebrew mod Darlene.....and I think it wont work with the V2 res unless you drill the top cap out tho.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need some help trying to understand this rad,i'm looking at the Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 280mm
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1247_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-280mm.html
> 
> My problem is i'm trying to make sure the measurements are correct, which cnt be right,its a 280 rad which measures 278mm in length....
> What i dnt quite understand is that another rad i have been thinking of getting (EX 240) measures 275mm,so how comes on their website this particular rad is 278mm being a 280 rad....Did they just measure the fan area alone....


The link you posted for that ST30, despite saying on the page "Dimensions (LxWxH): 278 x 144 x 30 mm" (which as you noticed already, the length given doesn't make any sense) has a 'technical drawing' link on the page which shows that the rad should be 317.5mm long, 144mm wide, and 30mm thick.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The link you posted for that ST30, despite saying on the page "Dimensions (LxWxH): 278 x 144 x 30 mm" (which as you noticed already, the length given doesn't make any sense) has a 'technical drawing' link on the page which shows that the rad should be 317.5mm long, 144mm wide, and 30mm thick.


Yes I ran into some difficulties trying to spec out/determine the exact sizes of various AC rads too recently. The info posted is definitely not totally complete and correct, as you've found, both at the vendor sites and AC's site itself. Sucks, frankly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And all of those sites reference Skinnee labs which in turn got it from Martin...all of your points of reference have the same bloody source. So,yes,the 10c delta was arbitrarily placed by Marin as a reference.
> You even say yourself,its makes the math easy..making the math easy doesnt equate to RL use use does it?
> 
> Now,I have posted _practical_ demonstrations of a high end 6 core rig with 3 heavy OC'd 780's with less than half the RoT with a 22c delta @1000RPM..you think adding one card and over doubling the rad space allocated will 'not work'?
> The swiftech rep on here has just over 2 360's cooling a 680 and a 6 core AMD chip...with a 15c delta @800 rpm...double the RoT...and still not at 10c Delta. But this is not acceptable? You are advocating yet more rad?
> Ridiculous.
> You have watercoolers (other than me) saying exactly the same thing,yet you dont seem to be taking any notice....
> 
> Testing a rad at those delta's is fine,expecting someone to tailor a loop to that delta is over reaching and unnecessary . 10c has been around a long time...so has the RoT,its not something I invented.
> 
> Now,the 60% you are pushing is based on what exactly? Break down the 40% loss showing where the loss is,does this include the PSU 10-20% loss?
> 
> In short,RoT does work,it will provide adequate cooling for all rigs,not once did anyone say it would provide a 10c Delta across all platforms.


Just to clarify things a bit. My motherboard is also in my loop and my fans are actually running at about 1000 RPM.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> The typical and most widely acceptable one for automobile acceleration is 0 - 100kmh
> For something to be adopted it generally had to be easily understood and easily used and applicable to something people can identify with
> So why 10C ? Most of the test data out there is at 10C. How useful would any rad testing be if all the test were all done at different Delta T's ? How would anyone know what is better than watt if Rad A is tested at 15C, Rad B is tested at 10C and Rad C is tested at 20C..... you have 3 sets of useless information that can not be compared.


0 to 100 is something almost tangible. You perform acceleration multiple times during every journey, your body directly experiences this, your brain understands time. It's something the layman can understand. It's a good marketing tool.

DeltaT=10C is not like this. The end user experience is like this: "when my PC is idle my fans are quiet, when I play BF4 my fans go louder." Similar to the end user experience when water-ambient is 13.5C.

Now you say _"How useful would any rad testing be if all the test were all done at different Delta T's ?"_ I think it's a strawman argument.

Can you find for me any two different reviews of the same radiator, where measurements were taken at exactly 10C delta?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah, what's all this testing at 10C stuff?
Radiators are tested at a specific heat load and and water temps at varying fan speeds give you a C/W figure that is converted into a wattage at 10C for the sake of easy comparison.


----------



## stickg1

I'm still contemplating my next move. New case/new mobo, new case/new (more) rads and pump, or test bench for temp use while I chop shop my Midi R2.

It would be fun to do a mITX build. I really want to keep my 3570K. 5GHz @ 1.37v is awesome.

So if anyone has one of those ASUS Z77 ITX Deluxe boards they would part with. Or trade for my MPOWER, PM me.


----------



## Triscuit

So I am upgrading my system to 2 290x's with the xspc razor blocks and have a few questions.
1) If I went with an sli bridge from XSPC i would need a 3 slot bridge for this mobo right? http://www.asrock.com/mb/photo/Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3(m).jpg
2) Why do some people use 2 bridges to link 2 GPU waterblocks together?
3) Is there any benefit with using an SLI bridge with running 2 gpu's or is it purely a looks thing?
4) Will my 360 rad and mcp655 pump effectively work with my cpu and 2 290x's for a few months until I can afford another rad, pump and res?
Thanks in advanced to anyone that answer's. i have only ever done 1 GPU in the past and want to do this build correctly without wasting money on parts I can't use.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triscuit*
> 
> So I am upgrading my system to 2 290x's with the xspc razor blocks and have a few questions.
> 1) If I went with an sli bridge from XSPC i would need a 3 slot bridge for this mobo right? http://www.asrock.com/mb/photo/Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3(m).jpg
> 2) Why do some people use 2 bridges to link 2 GPU waterblocks together?
> 3) Is there any benefit with using an SLI bridge with running 2 gpu's or is it purely a looks thing?
> 4) Will my 360 rad and mcp655 pump effectively work with my cpu and 2 290x's for a few months until I can afford another rad, pump and res?
> Thanks in advanced to anyone that answer's. i have only ever done 1 GPU in the past and want to do this build correctly without wasting money on parts I can't use.


#1 - yes, a 3 slot bridge is appropriate for the board.

#2 - 1 "bridge" is for serial flow setup, 2 "bridge" is for parallel flow. Personal choice.

#3 - using an SLI bridge between the cards is required to enable SLI on nVidia cards.

#4 - Yes, the 360 rad will work for the interim, but I would try to get another rad in as quick as possible. Why are you wanting to buy and additional pump, rad, & res? You already have a pump, res, & rad, you would only need an additional radiator to add to your loop. Running dual loops is nice if it's a cosmetic thing for you, but for temperature and loop performance, it's not a benefit.


----------



## Triscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> #1 - yes, a 3 slot bridge is appropriate for the board.
> 
> #2 - 1 "bridge" is for serial flow setup, 2 "bridge" is for parallel flow. Personal choice.
> 
> #3 - using an SLI bridge between the cards is required to enable SLI on nVidia cards.
> 
> #4 - Yes, the 360 rad will work for the interim, but I would try to get another rad in as quick as possible. Why are you wanting to buy and additional pump, rad, & res? You already have a pump, res, & rad, you would only need an additional radiator to add to your loop. Running dual loops is nice if it's a cosmetic thing for you, but for temperature and loop performance, it's not a benefit.


#3 I was meaning is there an advantage using a prebuilt bridge over making one?
#4 It would be more of a cosmetic thing in the future but that is also definitely good to know. Where should I set the second rad in the loop?
Thanks for the help! And nice Profile pic.


----------



## VSG

#3 Not really, but it will give some rigidity to the cards. Aesthetics are totally upto you

#4 Anywhere you got space in the case or even outside. Rad order in the loop does not matter really.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> #3 Not really, but it will give some rigidity to the cards. Aesthetics are totally upto you
> 
> #4 Anywhere you got space in the case or even outside. Rad order in the loop does not matter really.


This ^^^^^^

Sorry @Triscuit when you said SLI Bridge, I just assumed you were referring to an actual SLI bridge and not a liquid cooling fitting, since you said "to enable SLI" on the cards and a liquid cooling fitting has nothing to do with the cards actually running in SLI.

And thanks re: Photo, that is my first true love, I enjoy PC's and whatnot, but, shooting has been in my blood since an early age.....


----------



## Triscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> #3 Not really, but it will give some rigidity to the cards. Aesthetics are totally upto you
> 
> #4 Anywhere you got space in the case or even outside. Rad order in the loop does not matter really.


I actually did not think of the rigidity aspect. I may go with the bridge just for that reason.
So there is no benefit of going pump/res>rad>cpu>rad>gpu>res or going pump/res>rad>cpu>gpu>rad>res? I was all paranoid about where I would put the second rad with making it look good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> This ^^^^^^
> 
> Sorry @Triscuit when you said SLI Bridge, I just assumed you were referring to an actual SLI bridge and not a liquid cooling fitting, since you said "to enable SLI" on the cards and a liquid cooling fitting has nothing to do with the cards actually running in SLI.
> 
> And thanks re: Photo, that is my first true love, I enjoy PC's and whatnot, but, shooting has been in my blood since an early age.....


No worries, I worded it funny. these cards no longer even have the spot for a crossfire bridge so that wasn't even a thought when I had posted. And same here about shooting, I have been shooting for a very long time. Got my CCW applied for on my 21'st and was carrying 3 months later and never leave the house without it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triscuit*
> 
> I actually did not think of the rigidity aspect. I may go with the bridge just for that reason.
> So there is no benefit of going pump/res>rad>cpu>rad>gpu>res or going pump/res>rad>cpu>gpu>rad>res? I was all paranoid about where I would put the second rad with making it look good.


Don't worry about it, I was doing the same 2 months ago. My current build is still going CPU-Rad-GPUs-Rad but it does not have to.


----------



## Triscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't worry about it, I was doing the same 2 months ago. My current build is still going CPU-Rad-GPUs-Rad but it does not have to.


that makes this SOO much easier to fit another rad in on this build any suggestions one what size's I should be running for this setup, and maybe some cheaper fans for a few months before I can get some more expensive fans? I am going to replace my 360 rad because I honestly have no idea what brand or model it is, and it's pretty beat up.


----------



## VSG

Take pictures of the rad, especially any logo and of the fins. That way at least you got something to go by. Depending on the rad thickness and fin spacing, different fans will work better or worse. 4/5 x 120 mm rads (total) should suffice but the more you can fit in, the better of course.


----------



## Triscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Take pictures of the rad, especially any logo and of the fins. That way at least you got something to go by. Depending on the rad thickness and fin spacing, different fans will work better or worse. 4/5 x 120 mm rads (total) should suffice but the more you can fit in, the better of course.


I will do that when I take it apart tonight. I just need to get some temp fans because my 360 is down to 2 fans since a a few have died, and my wife's 240 has 1. I will probably pick up a few $5 temp fans for now and get some when I pick up the new rad setup.


----------



## VSG

I would just say do fans the right way from the beginning, they get pretty expensive when the numbers add up so why waste money on fans you can barely re-sell at all?


----------



## Triscuit

That's very true.


----------



## Rickles

This 10c standard is silly.

Not everyone watercools with the same goals in mind, and I would be willing to bet that many water coolers are primarily looking at one of two things:

price to performance ratios OR aesthetics

I highly doubt many of us put together our parts list after calculating expected heat load (which varies based on task), punched our numbers into a sim and then went out and picked a case that would fit the rads we needed.

Ask any water cooler a simple question

"Do you like the looks of your case?"

If they answer yes then they might look into maximizing the cooling potential of that case, or they might try to put together a beautiful theme, but I really think most builds these days are case centered not cooling centered, with a few outlying exceptions.

Yes I would argue a wall mount is a case.

If they answer no, then wait a few weeks/months and they will have a new case and a new build log, based around the case they should have got in the first place.

We could all easily make giant external rad boxes and hit that 10c delta, it would just look way to ugly for most of us to care to do it.

ALSO:

I use super cheap fans, because from my real world experience the premiums weren't worth the extra performance.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah wherever it fits and looks best in terms of general placement plus tubing runs. Component order has no real noticeable effect on water temp as said; whole loop reaches equilibrium fairly quickly.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The link you posted for that ST30, despite saying on the page "Dimensions (LxWxH): 278 x 144 x 30 mm" (which as you noticed already, the length given doesn't make any sense) has a 'technical drawing' link on the page which shows that the rad should be 317.5mm long, 144mm wide, and 30mm thick.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Honestly didn't even see that link....They do however need to fix their specs on those rads....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes I ran into some difficulties trying to spec out/determine the exact sizes of various AC rads too recently. The info posted is definitely not totally complete and correct, as you've found, both at the vendor sites and AC's site itself. Sucks, frankly.


Well said....


----------



## skupples

3x titans running under 45c @ 1300mhz 7ghz memory? Check
3930k running under 70c in real world applications @ 5.0? Check

Delta-T? I HAVE NO CLUE.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 3x titans running under 45c @ 1300mhz 7ghz memory? Check
> 3930k running under 70c in real world applications @ 5.0? Check
> 
> Delta-T? I HAVE NO CLUE.


How many rads?


----------



## Deano12345

Left the loop running today while I was in work, 14 hours of prime and the hottest the CPU got was 71 degrees. Very happy with my loop







Cross post of a quick picture I took in the EK Club.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah wherever it fits and looks best in terms of general placement plus tubing runs. Component order has no real noticeable effect on water temp as said; whole loop reaches equilibrium fairly quickly.


just noticed your username. i was a wrigleyville native for around 7 years. worked at Cubby Bear, Sports Corner (before the remodel) and Yakzies on Clark. i was working at sports corner when the whole Bartman thing happend. crazy times those were.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Heh. Don't live in the 'hood anymore but grew up there at Addison and Southport in the 80s. Did live very close though in the summer of 2003 and was around for that too. At Sheffields actually. My dad screamed "2 more outs!" and then everything came crashing down in typical Cubbie fashion.

Got a couple Barrow end plugs in from eBay. Nice and heavy; finish does look very close to BP if not exact. O-Rings a less vibrant green though. Happy with $5 shipped for two...


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Heh. Don't live in the 'hood anymore but grew up there at Addison and Southport in the 80s. Did live very close though in the summer of 2003 and was around for that too. At Sheffields actually. My dad screamed "2 more outs!" and then everything came crashing down in typical Cubbie fashion.
> 
> Got a couple Barrow end plugs in from eBay. Nice and heavy; finish does look very close to BP if not exact. O-Rings a less vibrant green though. Happy with $5 shipped for two...


hahah thats funny, one of the other door guys said "its only a matter of time now" then all hell broke loose.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How many rads?


2x 480x60's & a 360 slim.

1 480 has 8 fans on it, the other has 6 fans, & the 360 has 5 fans on it. all high speed typhoons. 23-25c ambient. (florida)


----------



## stickg1

Anyone got a lead on a test bench with 240/360mm rad support?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 0 to 100 is something almost tangible. You perform acceleration multiple times during every journey, your body directly experiences this, your brain understands time. It's something the layman can understand. It's a good marketing tool.
> 
> DeltaT=10C is not like this. The end user experience is like this: "when my PC is idle my fans are quiet, when I play BF4 my fans go louder." Similar to the end user experience when water-ambient is 13.5C.
> 
> Now you say _"How useful would any rad testing be if all the test were all done at different Delta T's ?"_ I think it's a strawman argument.
> 
> Can you find for me any two different reviews of the same radiator, where measurements were taken at exactly 10C delta?


I don't think I'd agree on the no one understands Delta T .... again it's very commonly referenced in each site's water cooling sticky. Yes, I'm sure those who went the CLC route and been disappointed and pop in on one of the sites won't have any inkling what it is until they read the stickies and many even then will find it a bit over their heads. That was the purpose in organizing the data in a more understandable format, to make it easier.

However, I don't think that applies to the veterans tho and given the responses from the user base here and the continued +reps, thank you's, PM's and requests for more information, there appears to be quite a demand. As for the comparison, at this time, I'd be hard pressed to find any two sites testing using anything. That level of testing requires a substantial time commitment and that requires a significant time and financial contribution. In many industries, a manufacturer pays to have a product certified by standards organizations. 80Plus for example, ya want ya PSU rated, you pay for the testing..There's loads of information out there that is basically was never tied ton any testing or is outdated based upon what is in use today.

For example:

http://www.overclock.net/t/766479/watercooling-guide-for-beginner
Quote:


> In theory, a single 120mm radiator can dissipate 150 Watts, so 2 X 120mm radiator should handle 300Watts etc. Most radiators from reviews are pretty much neck-and-neck, with little variation in performance.


Now that statement can be taken as true .... but only over a narrow range of conditions. If it's true at one fan rpm, it certainly gets less true as you vary from that fans speed. If it's true in push / pull, then it is certainly not true in push only, if it's true at a Delta T of 20C, it's certainly not true at 10 or 30.....if it's true for a Monsta, is it still true for an ST30 ? .... that's why many people want a more accurate method of determining how to size a system

At 10C and 1800 rpm, the best 60mm 240 does 179 watts .... bit short of 300
At 20C and 1250 rpm, the best 60mm 240 does 280 watts .... still short of 300
At 30C and 1000 rpm, the best 60mm 240 does 303 watts .... yeay moving 300

Now that user who went with 1000 rpm fans to get a quiet room to work in while his 2nd PC is loaded 24/7.... who does that user complain to when his coolant tops 68C in the dog days of summer ?

Koolance BTW seems to have a different RoT

http://koolance.com/how-to-build-a-water-cooled-pc
Quote:


> What is the minimum radiator size needed if you have space constraints? Our suggested minimum sizes are based on the number of "high heat" devices (CPU or GPU) you will liquid cool:
> 
> 1 device = 1 fan radiator
> 2 devices = 2 fan radiator
> 3 devices = 3 fan radiator
> 4 devices = 4 fan radiator
> 5+ devices = larger than 4 fans, or use multiple radiators


The RoT gives you the same answer for a 70 watt CPU load as it does for a 235 watt load .... if one is right, than the other must be "way outta whack"..... Using the above OCN sticky advice, and single 120mm (150 watts) should be overkill even on a 4.8GHz Haswell (140 watts). So a new arrival here at OCN reads that, reads the Koolance rad site and then reads the RoT and has three answers, one requiring twice as much rad as the other two and no way to ascertain how the choice will affect his completed build.

Again, the whole intent behind the method is to produce repeatable consistent results where the end result will 1) let the user know what temps he may expect 2) be repeatable and 3) will be with a few % points of what you planned on. The RoT is incapable of any of that.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone got a lead on a test bench with 240/360mm rad support?


Will one of these suit you??

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103_1261


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Will one of these suit you??
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103_1261


Eh, yeah that would do it. I'd be nice if it were about $50 cheaper though. I guess beggars can't be choosers but I'm gonna have to get on the street and start beggin for change so I can order one.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Eh, yeah that would do it. I'd be nice if it were about $50 cheaper though. I guess beggars can't be choosers but I'm gonna have to get on the street and start beggin for change so I can order one.


Maybe show'em a little bit of calf while your at it, couldn't hurt, unless you got chicken legs!!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

You have killed the thread with that comment and associated mental image.


----------



## VSG

LOL I was about to say the same thing more or less


----------



## cyphon

Today was the first and last time I use Swiftech fittings. Just had 2 out of 3 45* rotaries leak (by leak I mean gush) water. I wish I could say it was me not tightening a fitting down enough, but, the water was coming out of the rotary part. After draining and taking out the tube, the fittings literally just crumbled in my hand



Every time I go to some other company than Bitspower, something like this happens. Lesson learned, do not use anything but Bitspower rotaries.....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Today was the first and last time I use Swiftech fittings. Just had 2 out of 3 45* rotaries leak (by leak I mean gush) water. I wish I could say it was me not tightening a fitting down enough, but, the water was coming out of the rotary part. After draining and taking out the tube, the fittings literally just crumbled in my hand
> 
> 
> 
> Every time I go to some other company than Bitspower, something like this happens. Lesson learned, do not use anything but Bitspower rotaries.....


I'm really sorry to hear about this. Please PM me and I'll help you get them replaced. They shouldn't have leaked like that or fallen apart.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Today was the first and last time I use Swiftech fittings. Just had 2 out of 3 45* rotaries leak (by leak I mean gush) water. I wish I could say it was me not tightening a fitting down enough, but, the water was coming out of the rotary part. After draining and taking out the tube, the fittings literally just crumbled in my hand
> 
> 
> 
> Every time I go to some other company than Bitspower, something like this happens. Lesson learned, do not use anything but Bitspower rotaries.....


Wht not just stick with Bitspower?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Wht not just stick with Bitspower?


Those logos!!! They're atrocious. Anyone have any luck sanding them off or painting fittings? I would buy barrow but the selection is rather slim.


----------



## kpoeticg

I pulled out my Apogee Drive II today so i could setup a temporary loop for my build. I flushed it a few months ago when i first got it, then put the sticker back on the surface and put it back in the box. I guess i didn't let it dry off enough first.













I'm gonna try cleaning it with some Ketchup, then some ArctiClean 2-Step TIM Cleaner, then re-flushing. Unless some1 has a better suggestion with stuff that i already have around my house. I also have some Tripoli, Stainless Steel, & Jeweler's Rouge cleaning compounds that came with my RYOBI Orbital Buffer; the polishing compound that came in my Dremel Accessory Kits; & some Novus 3-Step Plastic Polishing Polisher/Cleaner


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm really sorry to hear about this. Please PM me and I'll help you get them replaced. They shouldn't have leaked like that or fallen apart.


Thanks for the response, I will send a PM shortly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Wht not just stick with Bitspower?


I like to support all the various companies, especially the ones that are more active in the community so I try to switch things up from time to time. I feel it also keeps different builds from all looking the same, lol.


----------



## VSG

You can get the bare essential Barrow stuff on eBay- barbs, compressions, 3/4-way adapters, degree adapters, rotary adapters and extenders.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can get the bare essential Barrow stuff on eBay- barbs, compressions, 3/4-way adapters, degree adapters, rotary adapters and extenders.


Do you know if they make compressions for 3/8x1/2 haven't been able to find any.


----------



## VSG

Ya I don't think I really saw that size either, I was checking out the 1/2" x 3/4" myself.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Those logos!!! They're atrocious. Anyone have any luck sanding them off or painting fittings? I would buy barrow but the selection is rather slim.


The logo when its on the black sparkle (dark nickel) is barely visible... well, at least not so glaring.


----------



## VSG

Ya, ditto with silver shining. That's the major reason I went with all silver shining for my bitspower stuff!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Thanks for the response, I will send a PM shortly
> *I like to support all the various companies*, especially the ones that are more active in the community so I try to switch things up from time to time. I feel it also keeps different builds from all looking the same, lol.


Me too, My standard compression fittings and pump are swiftech. Res and 90deg firrings are bitspower, Blocks are EK, Alphacool rads, Primochill Rigid revolver fittings for my acrylic tube.

Of all those companies, the only trouble I had was with the Nickel plating on my EK blocks going bad after a month. EK took care of me and sent me Copper base plates at my request. Their "Clear coolant is not clear, it has a yellowish tint. - No biggie. I think most companies do a great job and offer great support. Im glad the reps here get involved in getting things sorted out for the customers.


----------



## SeeThruHead

I remember reading somewhere that their Clear coolant is in fact supposed to be clear. If you've got a yellowish tint in would send it back.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> How useful would any rad testing be if all the test were all done at different Delta T's ?"
> 
> 
> 
> As for the comparison, at this time, I'd be hard pressed to find any two sites testing using anything.
Click to expand...

What is this I don't even
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Again, the whole intent behind the method is to produce repeatable consistent results where the end result will 1) let the user know what temps he may expect 2) be repeatable and 3) will be with a few % points of what you planned on. The RoT is incapable of any of that.


So deltaT can tell me that? Say I have a CPU and a GPU that consume together 210W, and Martin says my 360 rad can remove 189W at dT=10C when fans are at 1400rpm, and for argument's sake my pump is same as Martin tested = MCP35X at 40%. What temperatures can I expect? What if it were only a 240 rad?


----------



## Pimphare

@BramSLI1

Do you know if anyone has successfully modded a MCP655-B pump to use a potentiometer? Or is this even possible using the basic version pcb of this pump?


----------



## nismoskyline

probably my last rendition of my raven for a while, it's now just going to be my htpc.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, ditto with silver shining. That's the major reason I went with all silver shining for my bitspower stuff!


That, and so me and you can trade back and forth!


----------



## VSG

lol yes! Lemme know when you are setting up that test bench, I will go ahead and send you the QDCs then- pay whenever


----------



## stickg1

Heh, I want that Primochill. The damn thing costs more than the case I was thinking of getting. Also I need to find some clamps for my EK Res I guess. And since all I have is 240mm and 120mm rads I would feel obligated to get a 360mm rad. So I'm lookin' at $200+ just to be able to empty my case out so I can gut, cut, and make it more WC friendly.

We'll see. I could see myself using that bench for a bit anyway, it's pretty awesome.


----------



## jpetrach

Created by a dumb smart phone


----------



## jpetrach

We'll I hope I got what it takes to get in the club.

Desk top custom.
Asus Maximus gene vi
Intel i-5 4670k
Gigabyte radeon hd 7850
Corsair 600m
Kingston 120 gb ssd
Samsung 500 gb
Corsair h100i modded 50' clear 9mm tube and 25% water wetter solution.
No additional fans installed
And a compact desktop clear top case.









I welcome any feed back and questions. I like the set up and I want you opinions.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Heh, I want that Primochill. The damn thing costs more than the case I was thinking of getting. Also I need to find some clamps for my EK Res I guess. And since all I have is 240mm and 120mm rads I would feel obligated to get a 360mm rad. So I'm lookin' at $200+ just to be able to empty my case out so I can gut, cut, and make it more WC friendly.
> 
> We'll see. I could see myself using that bench for a bit anyway, it's pretty awesome.


Are you still considering a wet bench + Phanteks Enthoo Primo? Why not get a case with a removable motherboard tray instead and use that as a bench ring whenever you want? That way you can use any rad/pump config you want and don't have to have 2 separate systems.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Are you still considering a wet bench + Phanteks Enthoo Primo? Why not get a case with a removable motherboard tray instead and use that as a bench ring whenever you want? That way you can use any rad/pump config you want and don't have to have 2 separate systems.


Phanteks might be out of my price range at the moment. So I was thinking that Corsair Air 540 might work. But then I thought I could just cut up my Arc Midi and make it work better for me. But I need somewhere to run my rig while I machine the acrylic, sheet metal, paint, and all that jazz. But the thought of spending more on a test bench than my actual case seems crazy.

So I'm looking at cheap cases now I can cannibalize to make my own test bench (at least the motherboard layout, that's the only PITA thing to make) the rest I can just fabricate out of birch plywood and poplar drops from this elaborate set of cabinets I'm working on at my job.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Phanteks might be out of my price range at the moment. So I was thinking that Corsair Air 540 might work. But then I thought I could just cut up my Arc Midi and make it work better for me. But I need somewhere to run my rig while I machine the acrylic, sheet metal, paint, and all that jazz. But the thought of spending more on a test bench than my actual case seems crazy.
> 
> So I'm looking at cheap cases now I can cannibalize to make my own test bench (at least the motherboard layout, that's the only PITA thing to make) the rest I can just fabricate out of birch plywood and poplar drops from this elaborate set of cabinets I'm working on at my job.


You could always grab a corsair 750D....


----------



## stickg1

That's an option too.

Really, what I need to do is just chill out. LOL. It's hard though. I want the final product now but it's impossible to do on my salary without being irresponsible.

So instead of hounding all the classifieds, and filling up shopping carts on FCPU and PPCs wishing I could afford all the stuff. I need to clean up around here, clean out the garage, get my shop tools set up (everything is in a storage unit now unfortunately) and start making some stuff. Start doing what some of the heavy hitters in here are doing, have a well thought out build that takes place over 3 months instead of 3 days.

I have the tools, I haven't made a whole lot out of acrylic or metal but I've been working with wood since I was 10. Maybe I should do a wooden case or something like that. Keep it closer to home. A desk build would be cool.

I still need to sleeve my PSU. It took about 30 minutes to do half of my 8pin EPS, I still don't have all the colors I want. These ATX extractors I got are terrible. The connectors on this Seasonic are so dang tight I can't even do the staple trick.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> We'll see. I could see myself using that bench for a bit anyway, it's pretty awesome.


You know that thing will be up for sale in two weeks!









Edit: Oh wait sounds like you've changed your mind again already...

Love ya stick!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> Do you know if anyone has successfully modded a MCP655-B pump to use a potentiometer? Or is this even possible using the basic version pcb of this pump?


No I don't unfortunately. I'll ask our engineer if he knows of anyone that's done so though tomorrow when I get back into work.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I'm a mess, lol.

I did score a couple nice pieces off granite at work today. Maybe I'll make a little pedestal for my PC next to my desk. That should eat up some time this weekend and give me more desk space to sleeve my cables.

Granite test bench? Maybe so, ballin' baby!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's an option too.
> 
> Really, what I need to do is just chill out. LOL. It's hard though. I want the final product now but it's impossible to do on my salary without being irresponsible.
> 
> So instead of hounding all the classifieds, and filling up shopping carts on FCPU and PPCs wishing I could afford all the stuff. I need to clean up around here, clean out the garage, get my shop tools set up (everything is in a storage unit now unfortunately) and start making some stuff. Start doing what some of the heavy hitters in here are doing, have a well thought out build that takes place over 3 months instead of 3 days.
> 
> I have the tools, I haven't made a whole lot out of acrylic or metal but I've been working with wood since I was 10. Maybe I should do a wooden case or something like that. Keep it closer to home. A desk build would be cool.
> 
> I still need to sleeve my PSU. It took about 30 minutes to do half of my 8pin EPS, I still don't have all the colors I want. These ATX extractors I got are terrible. The connectors on this Seasonic are so dang tight I can't even do the staple trick.


Try filing the ends of the staples down a little bit. I've done this on PSUs with stupid tight connectors and it helped a ton


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Those logos!!! They're atrocious. Anyone have any luck sanding them off or painting fittings? I would buy barrow but the selection is rather slim.


I'll never understand the hatred for the BP logos??? They are the best fittings, period.

And I actually like the look of the logo anyway...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'll never understand the hatred for the BP logos??? They are the best fittings, period.
> 
> And I actually like the look of the logo anyway...


Maybe if your doing a black/gold theme, mind you, the fittings are nice, but the logo doesn't need to be on every damn thing they make and stand out so bad. The should make the logo way more subdued........


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Maybe if your doing a black/gold theme, mind you, the fittings are nice, but the logo doesn't need to be on every damn thing they make and stand out so bad. The should make the logo way more subdued........


Mine are silver shining and I don't see how they stand out so bad? I want people to know that they are Bitspower (they cost enough)...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Mine are silver shining and I don't see how they stand out so bad? I want people to know that they are Bitspower (they cost enough)...


Well, that's good to know, but I don't like the silver shinning, and I don't care if people know they are Bitspower or not, I'd rather they remember how good the system looks, anyone I'm showing my PCs to knows these things are already dang expensive.


----------



## SeeThruHead

I hate logos on anything. They are just tacky. I don't accept logos on my clothing and I prefer to have them as subdued as possible on computer parts. Not to mention the fact that swirly dragons are already incredibly tacky by themselves. I also don't care how expensive something looks (who would) but how aesthetically pleasing and functional it is.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I hate logos on anything. They are just tacky. I don't accept logos on my clothing and I prefer to have them as subdued as possible on computer parts. Not to mention the fact that swirly dragons are already incredibly tacky by themselves. I also don't care how expensive something looks (who would) but how aesthetically pleasing and functional it is.


Werd. I de-logo everything whenever possible. The cleaner the better.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I found a way to fill my res through the top port using a scrap piece of Acrilyc tubing.

Enlarge one end and shrink the other just enough to fit a funnel and inside the port.



Ghetto, but keeps me from using the top rad ports, which have made me spill coolant on my components. It's also hard to completely fill the res by filling through the top rad.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> *I hate logos on anything*. They are just tacky. I don't accept logos on my clothing and I prefer to have them as subdued as possible on computer parts. Not to mention the fact that swirly dragons are already incredibly tacky by themselves. I also don't care how expensive something looks (who would) but how aesthetically pleasing and functional it is.


Agree with ya here









I am really glad the Alphacool rads come with stickers instead of logos now so I can have a pure black rad with no logo sticking out. also another reason why I love HWL rads


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I found a way to fill my res through the top port using a scrap piece of Acrilyc tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Enlarge one end and shrink the other just enough to fit a funnel and inside the port.
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto, but keeps me from using the top rad ports, which have made me spill coolant on my components. It's also hard to completely fill the res by filling through the top rad.


is that a 250 ML res?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> is that a 250 ML res?


Yes it is. That's why I told you a 400 will not fit unless you lay it flat across your mid plate.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yes it is. That's why I told you a 400 will not fit unless you lay it flat across your mid plate.


That even looks a bit tight for the size tubing/fittings i'm running. How long is that tube from the bottom of the res to the mid panel?


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That even looks a bit tight for the size tubing/fittings i'm running. How long is that tube from the bottom of the res to the mid panel?


About 8 inches.

Yes, that bitspower a tight fit, but you still have room. Get you some right angle fittings and you'll be fine.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> About 8 inches.
> 
> Yes, that bitspower a tight fit, but you still have room. Get you some right angle fittings and you'll be fine.


oh, that will be easy then. I'm going to have the pump sitting on the mid panel, i'll have plenty of room. If i'm remembering correctly I measured something like 32cm from mid panel to top rad.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


That sleeving job looks really good. I really like the color combination.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Phanteks might be out of my price range at the moment. So I was thinking that Corsair Air 540 might work. But then I thought I could just cut up my Arc Midi and make it work better for me. But I need somewhere to run my rig while I machine the acrylic, sheet metal, paint, and all that jazz. But the thought of spending more on a test bench than my actual case seems crazy.
> 
> So I'm looking at cheap cases now I can cannibalize to make my own test bench (at least the motherboard layout, that's the only PITA thing to make) the rest I can just fabricate out of birch plywood and poplar drops from this elaborate set of cabinets I'm working on at my job.


If the only reason you need a test bench is to have a functional pc while you're building, you could always go ghetto and just use a motherboard tray on a motherboard box or something similar. I don't mean an expensive mobo tray like a Lian Li, but something cheap that's sold as a spare part for a case. Like i bought and extra mobo tray for my HAF XB, i think it was like 15 bux straight from CM. You don't need to spend a cpl hundred bux just to run your pc while you're building.

Just my


----------



## SeeThruHead

If the phanteks is too price have you thought about the nzxt h440?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Little update. Still *WIP* of course.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> Current progress ... with bad lighting.
> 
> 
> Up close and personal
> 
> 
> 
> Not too happy with the 290's temp though especially VRM1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As Geg pointed out, I would highly recommend two things. Some medium grade Fujipoly thermal pads & some ceramic based TIM on both sides of said thermal pad. This has taken my VRM temps down by 4-6c compared to the stock EK pads w/o using TIM, on my titans.
Click to expand...

I can get 7W/mK rated thermal pad. Is this ok or still not enough?


----------



## Hefner

Does anyone know G1/4 extenders that are a little wider than this EK extender? It looks a bit off










Anyone got any suggestions? Thanks


----------



## jokrik

Currently having a bit of problem
am using an AC aqualis reservoir with d5 adapter, but when filling the loop the pump move very little coolant and its so noisy
pump never been turned on and I ordered it pre-installed with the adapter

has anyone ever facing the same issue?

tried to find the installation guide online but none found, I've no idea whether the plug has been installed properly


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sounds like there is either air in it or the pump has not been installed correctly..probably too tightly screwed in.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds like there is either air in it or the pump has not been installed correctly..probably too tightly screwed in.


After some reading I found a post here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That pump top and res will only fit together one way. *Water does not really flow through that model, it just holds water for the pump top, and flows out the centre hole.* The in out connections stay on the pump top part.
> 
> There is a different model that water does actively flow through.
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2943


Guess I didn't do much reading before the purchase

currently trying to bleed the air out first and see how it goes, lucky I use DI water which is cheap and I can just drain it and throw away


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> After some reading I found a post here
> Guess I didn't do much reading before the purchase
> 
> currently trying to bleed the air out first and see how it goes, lucky I use DI water which is cheap and I can just drain it and throw away


I'm telling ya it's air. I recently installed a D5 in my loop with an aftermarket pump top and had this exact same issue in the beginning. Simply turn on the pump and shake it around a little bit to let the air out into the reservoir. I had to sit there for a good five min gently shaking the bubbles out.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I'm telling ya it's air. I recently installed a D5 in my loop with an aftermarket pump top and had this exact same issue in the beginning. Simply turn on the pump and shake it around a little bit to let the air out into the reservoir. I had to sit there for a good five min gently shaking the bubbles out.


Well I know if its air since this is my third WC rig,
but this AC reservoir+pump adapter has pretty unique looping inside

the in and out from reservoir to the pump adapter has only 1 hole, meaning the water will always sit on the reservoir and the water movement would only be inside the pump top
but when there is air bubble thats when the water in the res gets in, its a pretty slow process
that's what I understand by reading and watching how it runs in the last 2 hours

I've all my blocks full with DI water already by this very moment, took me 20 minutes








unfortunately I've to drain everything since I found a leakage


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Well I know if its air since this is my third WC rig,
> but this AC reservoir+pump adapter has pretty unique looping inside
> 
> the in and out from reservoir to the pump adapter has only 1 hole, meaning the water will always sit on the reservoir and the water movement would only be inside the pump top
> but when there is air bubble thats when the water in the res gets in, its a pretty slow process
> that's what I understand by reading and watching how it runs in the last 2 hours
> 
> I've all my blocks full with DI water already by this very moment, took me 20 minutes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> unfortunately I've to drain everything since I found a leakage


I just replied to your PM

Although its true that water is returned to the pump and that means the res doesn't get a lot of stirring action, remember that should really only apply once the loop is filled. When filling the water should drain out of the res super quickly and fill the loop. If it isn't then as the others have mentioned its most likely air locked.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuk80RzsTmM


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I just replied to your PM
> 
> Although its true that water is returned to the pump and that means the res doesn't get a lot of stirring action, remember that should really only apply once the loop is filled. When filling the water should drain out of the res super quickly and fill the loop. If it isn't then as the others have mentioned its most likely air locked.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuk80RzsTmM


Thx








You saved my day!

playing with the pump speed now to remove bubbles, this 880ml res can fill up the whole up so fast


----------



## tecuarenta

Now that I have a flow sensor to verify, is 300 liters per hour a good peak value for dual D5's both @ setting 5? Average? Too restrictive loop? I was expecting a little more flow as Martins claims 1 gpm=227 l/h to be a good target.


----------



## iamkraine

Hey random question. Do you guys remove the stickers from your hardware? From the Ram, PSU, Pumps ect...? And does that void the warranty?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I can get 7W/mK rated thermal pad. Is this ok or still not enough?


that should be plenty fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Hey random question. Do you guys remove the stickers from your hardware? From the Ram, PSU, Pumps ect...? And does that void the warranty?


removing stickers from your ram almost always voids warranty. Same for GPU's, specially the big serial sticker that says "warranty void if removed"

Allot of pumps have warranty seal stickers as well.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Hey random question. Do you guys remove the stickers from your hardware? From the Ram, PSU, Pumps ect...? And does that void the warranty?


With a heatgun. Then take the sticker and put it on parchment paper so you can reinstall it later for warranty.

Warranty is overrated anyway







.

Clean ram and power supplies look so much better.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Now that I have a flow sensor to verify, is 300 liters per hour a good peak value for dual D5's both @ setting 5? Average? Too restrictive loop? I was expecting a little more flow as Martins claims 1 gpm=227 l/h to be a good target.


I had 6.7 LPM max with dual D5's but that was with only a single GPU. What else have you got in the loop?

Edit; It looks like you have four blocks including the Motherboard and I only had two so that would make a difference.
What flow meter are you using? I have seen testing of the Aquacomputer meters and they are quite accurate but not other types.
Either way its plenty of flow, but I would have expected maybe a little better.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Now that I have a flow sensor to verify, is 300 liters per hour a good peak value for dual D5's both @ setting 5? Average? Too restrictive loop? I was expecting a little more flow as Martins claims 1 gpm=227 l/h to be a good target.


You should have enough flow with 300 l/h. You could try of free up some restriction, however, you will probably not see much increase in performance past the 227l/h mark. I'd set them as low as possible that allows you to stay above that target flow and leave them there


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I can get 7W/mK rated thermal pad. Is this ok or still not enough?
> 
> 
> 
> that should be plenty fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Someone claimed the stock thermal pad is rated 5w/mk. I don't know whether 7w/mk will be enough tho.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Not to digress but I guess the logos on the black fittings aren't _too_ ostentatious and gaudy lol

Relatively speaking, anyway...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Thanks. Someone claimed the stock thermal pad is rated 5w/mk. I don't know whether 7w/mk will be enough tho.


not sure how anyone can make that statement. I don't see anywhere in my EK documentation for my waterblocks that says "we have included 5wmk thermal pads for you!"

unless it was Derick.


----------



## VSG

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-1mm-60x50x1mm.html

EK itself lists their pads at 3-5 W/mK


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> not sure how anyone can make that statement. I don't see anywhere in my EK documentation for my waterblocks that says "we have included 5wmk thermal pads for you!"
> 
> unless it was Derick.


So are the EK pads good or is it worth investing in better ones?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-1mm-60x50x1mm.html
> 
> EK itself lists their pads at 3-5 W/mK












Would be nice if EK would print that in the directions that come with the block!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> So are the EK pads good or is it worth investing in better ones?


I had this all turned around in my tired early morning mind.

The higher the W/MK the better the pad, so 3-5 is a very low/terrible rating.

honestly though, if all you can get is pads with a 7 rating I wouldn't waste your money. Just put some Ceramic TIM on both sides.

It's not really a question of "enough" it's a "squeeze every last little bit out of this that I can" type of thing.


----------



## MiiX

Anyone seen EK-FC780 block with red LED's? Picture please.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I had 6.7 LPM max with dual D5's but that was with only a single GPU. What else have you got in the loop?
> 
> Edit; It looks like you have four blocks including the Motherboard and I only had two so that would make a difference.
> What flow meter are you using? I have seen testing of the Aquacomputer meters and they are quite accurate but not other types.
> Either way its plenty of flow, but I would have expected maybe a little better.


5 blocks and 4 rads atm. I am using aquacomputer's flow sensor (calibrated at 169 impulses per liter). Setting 5 is too loud for me, and to be around 1gpm I have to set them both near setting 4 which I do not like in terms of noise


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Not to digress but I guess the logos on the black fittings aren't _too_ ostentatious and gaudy lol
> 
> Relatively speaking, anyway...


i still cant figure out if the logo is supposed to be a dragon, a horse, or a horsedragon.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i still cant figure out if the logo is supposed to be a dragon, a horse, or a horsedragon.


Just looks like a Chinese dragon to me.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Not to digress but I guess the logos on the black fittings aren't _too_ ostentatious and gaudy lol
> 
> Relatively speaking, anyway...


Solution: Black Pastel

Then it will end up looking like an EK block without any logos anywhere


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Just looks like a Chinese dragon to me.


its "head" looks very horseyish to me. in fact, i think sarah jessica parker could use this as her logo.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I think I might have to change my nick to horsedragon. I'm no longer a Wrigleyville Bro anyway, eh Jim? Actually, I was never a Bro though I sure used to drink like one. My avatar may be a slight hint there.

Hey anybody want to trade their matte black BP temp sensor for a silver (still new in packaging)?

Edit: lol at SJP burn


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i still cant figure out if the logo is supposed to be a dragon, a horse, or a horsedragon.


I always thought dragon...but now that you say it, the head is kind of a horse...I'm goin with horsedragon....


----------



## Valgaur

Seahorse


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i still cant figure out if the logo is supposed to be a dragon, a horse, or a horsedragon.


Looks like a sea horse to me.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Looks like a sea horse to me.


lol, k can we all agree on Seahorsedragon? or like Horsiedragon of the Sea?


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> lol, k can we all agree on Seahorsedragon? or like Horsiedragon of the Sea?


_Equesdraco Aliquantulus Potentia_


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> _Equesdraco Aliquantulus Potentia_


lol, i think we could just go with tacky. haha.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Still better than "ENZO" (or XSPC) written across the thing. Just sayin'.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Still better than "ENZO" (or XSPC) written across the thing. Just sayin'.


Hmmmmmmmmmm....

I feel like the XSPC letterings are not as much of a focal point as the BP logos. Take the titan :





Im noticing the seahorsedragon more than the XSPC logo.....tho I think the BP shape is nicer


----------



## stickg1

I have the flu, and the only cure is more seahorsedragon!


----------



## Anoxy

Solution: EK


----------



## spikezone2004

Anyone had any experience with XSPC customer service? so far my experience is horrible... they wont even respond now. they responded with my initial contact through website then I sent them everything they requested for and can't get a response back from them.

I thought maybe they needed sometime but i think 2 weeks is plenty of time.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Anyone had any experience with XSPC customer service? so far my experience is horrible... they wont even respond now. they responded with my initial contact through website then I sent them everything they requested for and can't get a response back from them.
> 
> I thought maybe they needed sometime but i think 2 weeks is plenty of time.


That's why I only use EK & Heatkiller blocks, proven customer support in the event you need it.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hmmmmmmmmmm....
> 
> I feel like the XSPC letterings are not as much of a focal point as the BP logos. Take the titan :
> 
> Im noticing the seahorsedragon more than the XSPC logo.....tho I think the BP shape is nicer


True&#8230;I have one of their GPU blocks as well as the newer D2 bay res and don't mind the branding really.

I was mainly talking about their new fittings plus I didn't want to single out Enzotech to be fair. Most manufacturers do this excessive branding/logoing. But some are surely worse than others though that's also subjective.

As for XSPC support I had to deal with them once years ago and it was an ok experience but I did get the impression that their entire support department was one dude in Asia. I definitely did not wait weeks for responses though.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's why I only use EK & Heatkiller blocks, proven customer support in the event you need it.


Yea I am starting to get a little frustrated its under warranty and covered but if I cant get a response from there people in china I cant get a RMA...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Yea I am starting to get a little frustrated its under warranty and covered but if I cant get a response from there people in china I cant get a RMA...


[email protected] customer support. There is the problem. The Chinese don't believe in customer support I've found. Once they have your money, it's your problem. And my business partner is Chinese, he calls me "his conscience" lol, kinda sad, but that's how it's been for decades


----------



## wrigleyvillain

To be fair, this was not my experience with XSPC though I was far from enamored with the support like you are with HK and EK. And maybe it's even worse now though I would think not; the company keeps churning out new products and doesn't seem to be struggling.

Swiftech support is good too plus we got the rep in here.

Edit: How is AC support? Hopefully better than the specs/size listings on the website.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> [email protected] customer support. There is the problem. The Chinese don't believe in customer support I've found. Once they have your money, it's your problem. And my business partner is Chinese, he calls me "his conscience" lol, kinda sad, but that's how it's been for decades


Lol. what you say is very true. If I knew there technical support was based in China I would of never purchased 90% of there parts for my build. The response they sent to me didn't even have proper spelling. They put Pls instead of please for everything and told me they were in China as they can not watch youtube videos.

wrigleyvillain how did you contact them? I am not getting any help back from them


----------



## ccRicers

This is my first foray into water cooling and I have bought several XSPC parts. Hopefully nothing wrong goes with the stuff I bought.




It has a silver AX 120 and AX 240. All fittings except for a Bitspower extender are also XSPC. I like how they are similar in Bitspower's in looks but more affordable. The loop is not done yet but hopefully I can start leak testing as early as tonight.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> 5 blocks and 4 rads atm. I am using aquacomputer's flow sensor (calibrated at 169 impulses per liter). Setting 5 is too loud for me, and to be around 1gpm I have to set them both near setting 4 which I do not like in terms of noise


Dual d5 pumps here and 3 blocks and 4 rads. About 408 LPH or 1.8 GPM at maximum speed. But you don´t need to run your system a 1GPM for 24/7 use. This is Martin´s rule of thumb to help bleed the system. Once the system is bleed you can run it below that threshold (why not 0.5 GPM???). Turn down to 3 and measure the flow and temps. I think you would be just fine.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> To be fair, this was not my experience with XSPC though I was far from enamored with the support like you are with HK and EK. And maybe it's even worse now though I would think not; the company keeps churning out new products and doesn't seem to be struggling.
> 
> Swiftech support is good too plus we got the rep in here.
> 
> Edit: How is AC support? Hopefully better than the specs/size listings on the website.


I don't know about Alphacool support, never had a bad product from them, but I only use their rads....... And I can say without a doubt, that the worst support I've ever gotten, or in that case never got has been from swiftech.
Yes their rep/s are here on the forums, but if a company won't stand behind a product with their name on it, I won't use them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's why I only use EK & Heatkiller blocks, proven customer support in the event you need it.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I am starting to get a little frustrated its under warranty and covered but if I cant get a response from there people in china I cant get a RMA...
Click to expand...

PM Coolmiester on the Specialtech forums,he is the UK rep


----------



## VSG

AC could be AquaComputer as well, in which case they are usually good with support.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> To be fair, this was not my experience with XSPC though I was far from enamored with the support like you are with HK and EK. And maybe it's even worse now though I would think not; the company keeps churning out new products and doesn't seem to be struggling.
> 
> Swiftech support is good too plus we got the rep in here.
> 
> Edit: How is AC support? Hopefully better than the specs/size listings on the website.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know about Alphacool support, never had a bad product from them, but I only use their rads....... And I can say without a doubt, that the worst support I've ever gotten, or in that case never got has been from swiftech.
> Yes their rep/s are here on the forums, but if a company won't stand behind a product with their name on it, I won't use them.
Click to expand...

You obviously have never dealt with Phobya.......

Crap products AND crap cs...I should of been surprised when their fan extension went up in flames and took out a FC5....strangely I wasnt....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I don't know about Alphacool support, never had a bad product from them, but I only use their rads....... And I can say without a doubt, that the worst support I've ever gotten, or in that case never got has been from swiftech.
> Yes their rep/s are here on the forums, but if a company won't stand behind a product with their name on it, I won't use them.


What product was it and whom did you speak with about it?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What product was it and whom did you speak with about it?


It was three of your waterblocks, and it was Gene (I believe that's his name, was about 18 months ago)I spoke to. And that was just the straw that broke the camels back, I've gotten multiple products of swiftech's that have been DOA or mismachined, and never had a single thing actually be fixed from them. So no, I choose companies that have known good customer service now, and that actually stand behind their product.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PM Coolmiester on the Specialtech forums,he is the UK rep


I will do that, see if he can help me thanks.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well I never had to replace any Swiftech products as yet so cannot speak to RMA but they have been responsive as well as helpful so far...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i still cant figure out if the logo is supposed to be a dragon, a horse, or a horsedragon.


or a lizard with a really long tail.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> or a lizard with a really long tail.


Nah, definitely looks like a dragon imo. I still hate that they have to write the stupid inventory name on their blocks in gigantic letters that completely ruin their blocks. I can get putting the logo of your company on a waterblock, but don't take up a ridiculous amount of the block with the inventory/part name.

A major perp that just destroys a beautiful block would be the Maximus VI Impact block from Bitspower:



Stupid part names completely detract from beautiful pieces of machine-work.


----------



## ccRicers

I have the AIZ77ITXD block and it doesn't look bad to me. But then again I purchased the clear acrylic/nickel combo so the frosted print looks fine there



I would've liked a BP block for my 7950 to match the logos but too bad they don't support AMD GPUs as much now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It was three of your waterblocks, and it was Gene (I believe that's his name, was about 18 months ago)I spoke to. And that was just the straw that broke the camels back, I've gotten multiple products of swiftech's that have been DOA or mismachined, and never had a single thing actually be fixed from them. So no, I choose companies that have known good customer service now, and that actually stand behind their product.


Well I don't know of any Gene that works here or ever did work here. I've been the customer support rep now for about a year. I've been given quite a bit of freedom with regards to our warranty and RMA policy, but the final word is Gabe's. He's the CEO and founder of the company. That may be the person you spoke with. It doesn't sound like the way he would handle things though.


----------



## BramSLI1

Double post.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Anyone had any experience with XSPC customer service? so far my experience is horrible... they wont even respond now. they responded with my initial contact through website then I sent them everything they requested for and can't get a response back from them.
> 
> I thought maybe they needed sometime but i think 2 weeks is plenty of time.


XSPC has customer support?????????? I thought it was just an unmonitored email address they give us to make us think something will happen.

Never have had a response from them ever, so you are a step ahead of me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's why I only use EK & Heatkiller blocks, proven customer support in the event you need it.


Agree with ya on those companies. Honestly, any of the guys that are active in the forums are the ones I go to first because they are almost going out of their way to make themselves available for all of us.

Seems like an appropriate time to mention that Bram with Swiftech has already gotten replacement fittings on their way for those faulty ones that I posted yesterday


----------



## skupples

yapp, I went with the MCP35x2 because I knew I could just PM Bram with QQ's if it ever dies.


----------



## Roxycon

anyone knows what this could be?



picture is of outlet on my xspc dual d5 bayres with two swiftech pwm d5 installed, i'm running mayhems pastel ice white, only metal in the loop, at least expected to be is copper

(excuse my shaky hand and not-proper macro equipment







)


----------



## pc-illiterate

my letter to xspc with their response then my response then nothing from them. it took 1 week to hear back from them the first time. i wont buy any more of their products. i dont care how much better it performs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> my letter to xspc with their response then my response then nothing from them. it took 1 week to hear back from them the first time. i wont buy any more of their products. i dont care how much better it performs.


You opened your initial letter with 'self made bay cover and it broke 'pulling' it out.....Im not surprised they turned you down.

You gave them too much info. Just say its broke and you want a replacement,only give detail when asked and dont use any reference to DIY,self made or modded.


----------



## djriful

Sometime is not always good to be a very honest customer. Got to protect yourself from mistakes.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Well I don't know of any Gene that works here or ever did work here. I've been the customer support rep now for about a year. I've been given quite a bit of freedom with regards to our warranty and RMA policy, but the final word is *Gabe*'s. He's the CEO and founder of the company. That may be the person you spoke with. It doesn't sound like the way he would handle things though.


Ahhh, like I said, it was 18 months ago, all I remembered was it was a name that started with G, and was short, but the pertinent part of the post is still the same.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> my letter to xspc with their response then my response then nothing from them. it took 1 week to hear back from them the first time. i wont buy any more of their products. i dont care how much better it performs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You opened your initial letter with 'self made bay cover and it broke 'pulling' it out.....Im not surprised they turned you down.
> 
> You gave them too much info. Just say its broke and you want a replacement,only give detail when asked and dont use any reference to DIY,self made or modded.


And then the last post is 'I managed to fix it myself, and you suck!' so don't know why anyone would expect another customer service reply after something like that.


----------



## spikezone2004

I am disappointed in myself for buying all this XSPC stuff and finding there customer service does not exist. Can't even find any information on different email address for the company like corporate or anything like that, there is literally nothing about the company as far as I have found so far, other than there little info on there website.

At least I wont make the mistake again and fade out my XSPC parts with company's that have a solid repetition for good CS.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> And then the last post is 'I managed to fix it myself, and you suck!' so don't know why anyone would expect another customer service reply after something like that.


I read his email, were does it say they suck?

Side note: I am a business owner, I own a PC store in SoCal, and I am also a general contractor. And I can tell you, that even if he did say "you suck" I would reply to it, I don't want any customers of mine to be anything but happy with the products or services we offer. The customer isn't always right, but, that doesn't mean they should get anything but the best customer support from us.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I read his email, were does it say they suck?
> 
> Side note: I am a business owner, I own a PC store in SoCal, and I am also a general contractor. And I can tell you, that even if he did say "you suck" I would reply to it, I don't want any customers of mine to be anything but happy with the products or services we offer. The customer isn't always right, but, that doesn't mean they should get anything but the best customer support from us.


I was paraphrasing. After replying that he managed to fix it himself, he wrote:
Quote:


> I see how xspc treats the customer now. thank you for showing me that xspc is not a company i want to deal with.


Which reads like 'you suck' to me.









He explicitly says he managed to resolve the issue himself and doesn't want to deal with the company any more. I don't know why anyone would expect a response to that. He specifically said he doesn't want one.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Lol. what you say is very true. If I knew there technical support was based in China I would of never purchased 90% of there parts for my build. *The response they sent to me didn't even have proper spelling.* They put Pls instead of please for everything and told me they were in China as they can not watch youtube videos.
> 
> wrigleyvillain how did you contact them? I am not getting any help back from them


To be fair, you don't seem to know the difference between "there" and "their" and you say "would of" instead of "would have"


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL, i'm constantly ninja editing my posts for your/you're, there/their/they're


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> To be fair, you don't seem to know the difference between "there" and "their" and you say "would of" instead of "would have"


To be fair I do not care. I do know the difference, but I do not care to check my spelling etc 100% of the time. Keep your comments to the subject about XSPC and water cooling, or do not comment.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> To be fair I do not care. I do know the difference, but I do not care to check my spelling etc 100% of the time. Keep your comments to the subject about XSPC and water cooling, or do not comment.


And that's called hypocrisy.

In any event, I haven't seen the specifics of your exchange with their customer support so it's difficult to make such hasty conclusions on their quality.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You obviously have never dealt with Phobya.......
> 
> Crap products AND crap cs...I should of been surprised when their fan extension went up in flames and took out a FC5....strangely I wasnt....


I've never used a Phobya branded product, so I can't say anything to that honestly. I have seen posts that say the Alphacool and Phobya rads come from the same OEM based on how they look. But that's my total knowledge of anything Phobya, and it is very much hearsay. But I do want to try out the Noiseblocker/Phobya Red e-loops.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> XSPC has customer support?????????? I thought it was just an unmonitored email address they give us to make us think something will happen.
> 
> Never have had a response from them ever, so you are a step ahead of me.
> Agree with ya on those companies. Honestly, any of the guys that are active in the forums are the ones I go to first because they are almost going out of their way to make themselves available for all of us.
> 
> Seems like an appropriate time to mention that Bram with Swiftech has already gotten replacement fittings on their way for those faulty ones that I posted yesterday


Well maybe I got lucky and again this was like three years ago. Bought one of their non-D5 bay res combos and the damn thing was slightly too wide for my CM690 II bays (uhhhh). They responded and had me measure with calipers then sent me another one which did fit. I was supposed to send the other one back to some place in Texas but they didn't provide a label so I put it aside and then I actually just forgot about it for awhile. Never heard back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Sometime is not always good to be a very honest customer. Got to protect yourself from mistakes.


I don't know man. I guess I would agree _sometimes_. In general, though, it's pretty unethical to try to RMA something that doesn't have a malfunction, defect or damage from manufacture or shipping but rather something you did.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> And that's called hypocrisy.
> 
> In any event, I haven't seen the specifics of your exchange with their customer support so it's difficult to make such hasty conclusions on their quality.


The first and only response was to send proof of purchase, video of noise, picture of bar code on res. I sent all the information to them and waited, and tried again a couple times now going on 3 weeks later still no world. Can't find any other way to contact them.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah, I just checked out their website....companies like this bother me. They really do not care about their customers when the only way to contact them is through a silly web form. There should be a phone number at the very least.

edit: if you have a facebook page or twitter, you should go call them out. Social media can be a powerful tool sometimes.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I just checked out their website....companies like this bother me. They really do not care about their customers when the only way to contact them is through a silly web form. There should be a phone number at the very least.


I agree, yes, we live in the "technology" age, but I still prefer to TALK to someone when there is a product issue.


----------



## Anoxy

I mean, if a company wants to join the "technology" age, they can implement some form of online technical support chat. Or at the very least provide you with an e-mail address rather than a web form that is forwarded to some anonymous address.

Anyway, this is off topic, sorry.

I'm still deciding if I should take the plunge for a Caselabs and transplant my system...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I mean, if a company wants to join the "technology" age, they can implement some form of online technical support chat. Or at the very least provide you with an e-mail address rather than a web form that is forwarded to some anonymous address.
> 
> Anyway, this is off topic, sorry.
> 
> *I'm still deciding if I should take the plunge for a Caselabs and transplant my system...*


Yes, I think you should, but I'm biased on everything CaseLabs,


----------



## stickg1

I scored some cabinets at work today, and a couple pieces of granite. These people are nuts, they bought this house that we remodeled in 2008, the guy I originally remodeled it for bought it to fix up and flip. Then it took him a while to sell, I think he lived it in for a few months while we remodeled his home. They don't cook or anything so this kitchen was never used in these 6 years. The people that bought the place were basically like "Great kitchen, not our style though, get rid of it all, we want new stuff"

So I got cabinets, granite, appliances, all sorts of goodies. Unfortunately I rent my house so I won't be installing them here. But I did use some of it for my PC area! My watercooled rig only sits on the finest Italian stone!



A little storage up top (this I actually pulled from another job)



I think I will Craigslist some of the appliances and maybe I can get that case I want. Although I also brought home some material and tools to start "StickG1's Wet-Wood Test Bench," might make a build log for that one.


----------



## VSG

That granite "desk" looks amazing! Good deal


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No I don't unfortunately. I'll ask our engineer if he knows of anyone that's done so though tomorrow when I get back into work.


Ok thanks!


----------



## ikem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCCaMIeUFa4&


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCCaMIeUFa4&


Just what I was thinking! Huh???????????

Edit: Ok so the link didn't show up in your post, but I see it in my response to your post. lol


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Just what I was thinking! Huh???????????
> 
> Edit: Ok so the link didn't show up in your post, but I see it in my response to your post. lol


yea.. i cant get it to embed at all..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Ok thanks!


I asked out engineer here about modding the PCB of one of these pumps to allow for speed adjustment. He says that the PCB of these particular pumps wasn't really designed for this and it most likely won't work properly. What you'd essentially need to do is adjust the voltage to reduce the speed of the pump and these 655-B pumps don't respond very well to voltage adjustment.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I just checked out their website....companies like this bother me. They really do not care about their customers when the only way to contact them is through a silly web form. There should be a phone number at the very least.
> 
> edit: if you have a facebook page or twitter, you should go call them out. Social media can be a powerful tool sometimes.


I actually posted on the XSPC facebook today. I will see if they respond to that.


----------



## ccRicers

This kind of makes me afraid of using my XSPC rads for the first time :-o


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I scored some cabinets at work today, and a couple pieces of granite. These people are nuts, they bought this house that we remodeled in 2008, the guy I originally remodeled it for bought it to fix up and flip. Then it took him a while to sell, I think he lived it in for a few months while we remodeled his home. They don't cook or anything so this kitchen was never used in these 6 years. The people that bought the place were basically like "Great kitchen, not our style though, get rid of it all, we want new stuff"
> 
> So I got cabinets, granite, appliances, all sorts of goodies. Unfortunately I rent my house so I won't be installing them here. But I did use some of it for my PC area! My watercooled rig only sits on the finest Italian stone!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little storage up top (this I actually pulled from another job)
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will Craigslist some of the appliances and maybe I can get that case I want. Although I also brought home some material and tools to start "StickG1's Wet-Wood Test Bench," might make a build log for that one.


nice score.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I asked out engineer here about modding the PCB of one of these pumps to allow for speed adjustment. He says that the PCB of these particular pumps wasn't really designed for this and it most likely won't work properly. What you'd essentially need to do is adjust the voltage to reduce the speed of the pump and these 655-B pumps don't respond very well to voltage adjustment.


Alrighty. It's nothing I'm majorly concerned with. Just merely a thought. Thanks for the prompt feedback


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You obviously have never dealt with Phobya.......
> 
> Crap products AND crap cs...I should of been surprised when their fan extension went up in flames and took out a FC5....strangely I wasnt....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've never used a Phobya branded product, so I can't say anything to that honestly. I have seen posts that say the Alphacool and Phobya rads come from the same OEM based on how they look. But that's my total knowledge of anything Phobya, and it is very much hearsay. But I do want to try out the Noiseblocker/Phobya Red e-loops.
Click to expand...

Alphacool and Phobya and Aquatuning are all the same company.


----------



## Sterling7

Just joined OCN and would love to be part of this club. I just started water cooling this month, and I'm already hooked!

Sorry for the poor quality...


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I actually posted on the XSPC facebook today. I will see if they respond to that.


well at least they have answered my product related questions:


----------



## BradleyW

Better pictures are coming soon.


----------



## kpoeticg

Hey guys, anybody know if it's a bad idea to mix Mayhem's X1 in the Plastic Gallon Jugs distilled comes in at Pharmacies/Grocery Stores & leave the leftover stored inside the gallon jug for extended periods of time?

Also i wanna boil some distilled today and flush a rad and a cpl blocks since i had to clean one of my blocks off yesterday with ketchup and then clean it with polishing compound & ArctiClean Step 2.

My flushing setup uses a submersible pond pump with plastic housing & i usually use a plastic 5gal. Home Depot Bucket as the res, along with soft-tubing from Home Depot. I'm worried about how any or all of those will handle boiled distilled.

Anybody have any insight on either question?


----------



## lowfat

I have all of my mixed coolant in plastic jugs that distilled water comes in.

You don't need to waste distilled water to clean a rad. Just boil tap water. Then just do the final rinse with distilled.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> *Hey guys, anybody know if it's a bad idea to mix Mayhem's X1 in the Plastic Gallon Jugs distilled comes in at Pharmacies/Grocery Stores & leave the leftover stored inside the gallon jug for extended periods of time?*
> 
> Also i wanna boil some distilled today and flush a rad and a cpl blocks since i had to clean one of my blocks off yesterday with ketchup and then clean it with polishing compound & ArctiClean Step 2.
> My flushing setup uses a submersible pond pump with plastic housing & i usually use a plastic 5gal. Home Depot Bucket as the res, along with soft-tubing from Home Depot. I'm worried about how any or all of those will handle boiled distilled.
> 
> Anybody have any insight on either question?


You can mix it in there no problem. You can probably store it like that as long as it is a dark area. The best place to store it is back in the mayhems bottles as those are completely opaque and you do not have to worry light getting in at all.

You can store X1 for a year or two no problem and pastel up to three years, so long as it is a cool dark environment.


----------



## WaitWhat

Want to do a yellow themed watercooling build in my 750D but can't find a mobo (Z87) that I like as most have red or another colour on them, apart from the MSI boards but the heatsinks on those look a tad ugly from what I've seen, though it is the closest to what I want ...

Any suggestions?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Alphacool and Phobya and Aquatuning are all the same company.


Same company? Or use the same OEM?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Want to do a yellow themed watercooling build in my 750D but can't find a mobo (Z87) that I like as most have red or another colour on them, apart from the MSI boards but the heatsinks on those look a tad ugly from what I've seen, though it is the closest to what I want ...
> 
> Any suggestions?


I believe the Plasti-Dip folks make a yellow. So you could get whatever board you want and change the color of the heatsinks yourself. That's the first thought anyways.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I believe the Plasti-Dip folks make a yellow. So you could get whatever board you want and change the color of the heatsinks yourself. That's the first thought anyways.


Are you suggesting plastidip on heatsinks? That is a terrible idea....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Are you suggesting plastidip on heatsinks? That is a terrible idea....


There have been other members on these same forums who have done it with zero negative effect on the cooling capabilities of the heatsinks, myself included. If he doesn't want to, that's fine. He asked for thoughts, I gave home a thought.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Want to do a yellow themed watercooling build in my 750D but can't find a mobo (Z87) that I like as most have red or another colour on them, apart from the MSI boards but the heatsinks on those look a tad ugly from what I've seen, though it is the closest to what I want ...
> 
> Any suggestions?


Not really the thread for it, but oh well.

Why not the Asus Z87 Pro?

Or just get an all black motherboard and incorporate yellow elsewhere.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Want to do a yellow themed watercooling build in my 750D but can't find a mobo (Z87) that I like as most have red or another colour on them, apart from the MSI boards but the heatsinks on those look a tad ugly from what I've seen, though it is the closest to what I want ...
> 
> Any suggestions?


asrock oc formula


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> There have been other members on these same forums who have done it with zero negative effect on the cooling capabilities of the heatsinks, myself included. If he doesn't want to, that's fine. He asked for thoughts, I gave home a thought.


Seeing as heat sinks are made to pull heat away from the chips and disperse into air, adding an insulation layer over them seems counter productive.

I'd search for aftermarket heatsinks that are annodized to the color you want. They are getting harder to find, but are still out there


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have all of my mixed coolant in plastic jugs that distilled water comes in.
> 
> You don't need to waste distilled water to clean a rad. Just boil tap water. Then just do the final rinse with distilled.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You can mix it in there no problem. You can probably store it like that as long as it is a dark area. The best place to store it is back in the mayhems bottles as those are completely opaque and you do not have to worry light getting in at all.
> 
> You can store X1 for a year or two no problem and pastel up to three years, so long as it is a cool dark environment.


Thanx for the fast responses guys. Definitely helped

@lowfat even if i boil tapwater though. Do you have any insight about the temp with all the plastic i use for my flushing setup? That's what i'm worried about with it. This is my flushing setup, including soft Home-Depot tubing


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanx for the fast responses guys. Definitely helped
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> @lowfat
> even if i boil tapwater though. Do you have any insight about the temp with all the plastic i use for my flushing setup? That's what i'm worried about with it. This is my flushing setup, including soft Home-Depot tubing


Well you should probably boil it, then let it cool first.


----------



## skupples

The pump i got generates enough heat on it's own that I would probably over heat it with boiling water. I just turn it off after the water is hot to the point of emitting steam.

I still use distilled in the filtering process though. It's only 1.50$ a gallon.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The pump i got generates enough heat on it's own that I would probably over heat it with boiling water. I just turn it off after the water is hot to the point of emitting steam.


what pump is that?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah you got a sump pump tho









My little pond pump doesn't heat the water up at all that i've noticed.

If i'm gonna boil it and let it cool, that would really be the same (or not quite as good) as using room temp distilled wouldn't it?

Sounds like maybe it's not a good idea to use that setup with hot water =\

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> what pump is that?


With external flushing setups, alot of people use sump pumps or pond pumps. Pond pumps are meant for like water fountains and little ponds in your backyard. Sump pumps or more powerful (and expensive) cuz they're used to clean water out of a flooded basement or something similar


----------



## cyphon

I haven't noticed Bitspower's 'carbon' black before, is it new?

Also it looks like a flat/matte black versus a what they call a matte black, which has always looked more glossy to me. Is there any other difference?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx for the fast responses guys. Definitely helped
> 
> @lowfat
> even if i boil tapwater though. Do you have any insight about the temp with all the plastic i use for my flushing setup? That's what i'm worried about with it. This is my flushing setup, including soft Home-Depot tubing



I also used Boiling water and both the filter and pump handled it well.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I also used Boiling water and both the filter and pump handled it well.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome. You have a similar pond pump submersed in that pot?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> I also used Boiling water and both the filter and pump handled it well.


How strong of a pump do you use for this?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> How strong of a pump do you use for this?


all you need is a pond pump. Can find them for as cheap as 25-30$.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> all you need is a pond pump. Can find them for as cheap as 25-30$.


Reason I ask is because I just made one of these and I get like no flow.

I tried a 350 GPH and a 1000 GPH pump and I get at best a trickle with either. The filter is just waaaayyyy too restrictive as removing that is a ton of flow. Perhaps I could get a different filter then?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Awesome. You have a similar pond pump submersed in that pot?


Yep. Its a Rigid branded pump from Home Depot. 15 bucks or so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> How strong of a pump do you use for this?


50GPH, you can see the return hose letting out massive amounts of water.


----------



## kpoeticg

I use a 350GPH pump and that's only because the 2 or 3 slower models were out of stock. The 350GPH is more than enough for a flushing setup.

You can always add your systems pump after the pump/res if you need more power. You really shoudn't have restriction issues though. It sounds like you have the motor turned down


----------



## Ragsters

Has anyone used the phobya gaskets? I want to know how much they compress.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I use a 350GPH pump and that's only because the 2 or 3 slower models were out of stock. The 350GPH is more than enough for a flushing setup.
> 
> You can always add your systems pump after the pump/res if you need more power. You really shoudn't have restriction issues though. It sounds like you have the motor turned down


Motor was on max. I added a DDC I had laying around and same problem. Removing the filter from the housing results in great flow. I think the filter is just ridiculously restrictive.

The flow is so low, we are talking large air pockets left in the tube. that would not go away.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Motor was on max. I added a DDC I had laying around and same problem. Removing the filter from the housing results in great flow. I think the filter is just ridiculously restrictive.
> 
> The flow is so low, we are talking large air pockets left in the tube. that would not go away.


Odd, what filter are you using?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Nah, definitely looks like a dragon imo. I still hate that they have to write the stupid inventory name on their blocks in gigantic letters that completely ruin their blocks. I can get putting the logo of your company on a waterblock, but don't take up a ridiculous amount of the block with the inventory/part name.
> 
> A major perp that just destroys a beautiful block would be the
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Maximus VI Impact block from Bitspower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stupid part names completely detract from beautiful pieces of machine-work.


Bitspower's clear acrylic blocks used to be fully clear acrylic with no etching/laserwork.
They came with a clear overlay sheet that had the logo's / branding on it which you could choose to put in place under 6 screws if you chose to.
Wondering if anyone with current gen Bitspower blocks could confirm they are now etching the acrylic rather than giving the choice to use an overlay or not.

As an example here is VG-NTX580 blocks with overlay place - easy to remove with just those 6 black screws holding it in place.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Odd, what filter are you using?


Some GE filter I picked up at Home Depot, I do not remember the model. I think it takes their C type filters. I got a sediment and chlorine filter for it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Reason I ask is because I just made one of these and I get like no flow.
> 
> I tried a 350 GPH and a 1000 GPH pump and I get at best a trickle with either. The filter is just waaaayyyy too restrictive as removing that is a ton of flow. Perhaps I could get a different filter then?


something has to be wrong with your setup. Only explanation. The pump may be defective? Do you have the filter turned off?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Has anyone used the phobya gaskets? I want to know how much they compress.


I have some of the 10mm gaskets. The rubber's pretty solid. I wouldn't count on too much compression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Motor was on max. I added a DDC I had laying around and same problem. Removing the filter from the housing results in great flow. I think the filter is just ridiculously restrictive.
> 
> The flow is so low, we are talking large air pockets left in the tube. that would not go away.


Weird. You should try just buying a different filter that fits the housing then. This is the filter i bought



It worked fine, but i bought the FXWTC Rev 2 Filter pack for it because FXWTC Rev2 is 5 micron

Does your filter have an air release button on it? Or do have the valve turned off maybe? That red button in the pic is air release. I use it everytime i flush


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have some of the 10mm gaskets. The rubber's pretty solid. I wouldn't count on too much compression
> 
> Weird. You should try just buying a different filter that fits the housing then. This is the filter i bought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It worked fine, but i bought the FXWTC Rev 2 Filter pack for it because FXWTC Rev2 is 5 micron


haha, did the same thing. Standard GE housing, with the upgraded filter.


----------



## kpoeticg

That's because we're both copying the same setup


----------



## skupples

I don't actually remember reading that on the guys site, i just saw it sitting there and thought "why the hell not!"


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bitspower's clear acrylic blocks used to be fully clear acrylic with no etching/laserwork.
> They came with a clear overlay sheet that had the logo's / branding on it which you could choose to put in place under 6 screws if you chose to.
> Wondering if anyone with current gen Bitspower blocks could confirm they are now etching the acrylic rather than giving the choice to use an overlay or not.
> 
> As an example here is VG-NTX580 blocks with overlay place - easy to remove with just those 6 black screws holding it in place.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Interesting, anybody can comment?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Some GE filter I picked up at Home Depot, I do not remember the model. I think it takes their C type filters. I got a sediment and chlorine filter for it.


Hmmmm, I have no experience with the GEs. But I give a guess, this is the filter you have? Filter


----------



## skupples

the GE filters have three settings, off/on/passive.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't actually remember reading that on the guys site, i just saw it sitting there and thought "why the hell not!"


If you watch the youtube video and scroll through the comments, he explains most of the components he used. Then a little more googling would bring you HERE which kinda walks you through it better. I always assumed you ended up there too lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> something has to be wrong with your setup. Only explanation. The pump may be defective? Do you have the filter turned off?


This filter is only on, has no off valve or anything...I quadruple checked that the inlet and outlets were right

Just read up on the filter manual, looks like it may have an integral flow restrictor...It says 0.6GPM is normal, however, there is no way I am getting that....perhaps I will start looking for another filter.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I have some of the 10mm gaskets. The rubber's pretty solid. I wouldn't count on too much compression


That's actually great news. That means I can buy the 5mm ones instead of the 7mm ones. Thanks!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This filter is only on, has no off valve or anything...I quadruple checked that the inlet and outlets were right
> 
> Just read up on the filter manual, looks like it may have an integral flow restrictor...It says 0.6GPM is normal, however, there is no way I am getting that....perhaps I will start looking for another filter.


Did you check the pump flow without adding filters or other components?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Did you check the pump flow without adding filters or other components?


Yeah it is great even with just the filter housing and no filter installed


----------



## kpoeticg

Did it ever work? Maybe the filter's clogged.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah it is great even with just the filter housing and no filter installed


Ahh ok. Yeah, try another filter then. My filter adds almost no restriction.


----------



## kpoeticg

Same here, mine adds no restriction. But if i don't release the air from the loop, it gives a similar trickling effect


----------



## Majentrix

Does tubing bought from a hardware store have anything different than tubing "made for watercooling"?
Keeping in mind they're both clear vinyl.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Did it ever work? Maybe the filter's clogged.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Ahh ok. Yeah, try another filter then. My filter adds almost no restriction.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Same here, mine adds no restriction. But if i don't release the air from the loop, it gives a similar trickling effect


I am pretty sure it is just an extremely restrictive filter. I will search for a high flow one for my housing or just get a new one. I really probably could use it in my kitchen sink, so I may install it there and buy a new one for the flush system.

Thanks all you guys








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> Does tubing bought from a hardware store have anything different than tubing "made for watercooling"?
> Keeping in mind they're both clear vinyl.


Home Depot tube has some terrible track record with plasticizer leaking into the loop. I would advise against it.

Primochill Advance LRT is the current most recommended on soft tube...or neoprene if you like the looks of it.


----------



## Blatsz32

Has anyone had experience with these blocks or heard anything good/bad about them? I'm new to GPU cooling and don't want to spend huge wampum($) on a block just yet.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22285/ex-blc-1591/Alphacool_NexXxoS_NVXP_Nvidia_GTX780_Titan_-_Polished_Stainless_Steel_-_Clear_11083.html?tl=g30c311s1996


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Has anyone had experience with these blocks or heard anything good/bad about them? I'm new to GPU cooling and don't want to spend huge wampum($) on a block just yet.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22285/ex-blc-1591/Alphacool_NexXxoS_NVXP_Nvidia_GTX780_Titan_-_Polished_Stainless_Steel_-_Clear_11083.html?tl=g30c311s1996


I would not get them, I don't think it can cool properly especially it is missing the cooling on the chokes. Get the EK blocks.

If you own such TITAN card, best to get the best cooling for it. Don't be running a V8 engine inside a Honda Civic.


----------



## pc-illiterate

a v8 engine in a honda civic is the best thing that can happen to them.
people dont like that alphacool block because it looks cheap and its expensive for the amount of metal it actually contains. there shouldnt be anything wrong with it.


----------



## djriful

That part is missing to be cooled.


----------



## Jameswalt1

It truly is an atrocious looking block though


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Don't be running a V8 engine inside a Honda Civic.


All depends on WHICH V8 we're talking about here, not to mention which Civic chassis. And I'm not even a fan of Hondas (more of a Toyota guy myself)


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I would not get them, I don't think it can cool properly especially it is missing the cooling on the chokes. Get the EK blocks.
> 
> If you own such TITAN card, best to get the best cooling for it. Don't be running a V8 engine inside a Honda Civic.


Have to agree with that considering the heat one can put out. Mine could easily bust 70C without trouble when it was air cooled & that is with its fan going around 40-50%. I usually had to keep the fan near or above 80% to keep it under that. Reason I did not go with a cheap water block, though I just can't wait to get it running again now it has the water block on it.

Only thing, I don't see any 780 or Titan in his rigs.

A V8 in a Civic.....would the tires even be able to grab the ground or just spin? I just know I never going to get Toyota, their gas mileage tanks bad when towing. Reason I say bad, my Cousin's Toyota with a trailer and my motorcycle drop down to 13 mpg. Sad when my 4 cyl Sonoma with a car trailer & hot tub on it can beat it at that.

I abuse this poor thing.


----------



## kingchris

Guys, need some help, my builds is getting the better of me,res and pump are just not fitting well.....

My thoughts are a couple of these Alphacool DC - LT pump in series

with one fitted with this DC-LT Plexi Top

and the other with this Res

mounted in different parts of the case

will they be enough for a 420mm Monsta and a 280 ST30









or a small res for the D5


----------



## Anoxy

Wait what you don't need two pumps for that loop


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Wait what you don't need two pumps for that loop


You do with those dire,hateful,miserable,useless little DCLT pumps.......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> It truly is an atrocious looking block though


And this...all the mass of the copper block has gone too. Costcutting and vile.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bitspower's clear acrylic blocks used to be fully clear acrylic with no etching/laserwork.
> They came with a clear overlay sheet that had the logo's / branding on it which you could choose to put in place under 6 screws if you chose to.
> Wondering if anyone with current gen Bitspower blocks could confirm they are now etching the acrylic rather than giving the choice to use an overlay or not.
> 
> As an example here is VG-NTX580 blocks with overlay place - easy to remove with just those 6 black screws holding it in place.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Both, waterblocks for titan have removable sheet with the logo, here's mine:



While for 780, 780ti, 7990 laser engaving


----------



## TheSimon

Was just wondering if the pump in this pump res combo http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21022/ex-pmp-251/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_100_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_100_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank is as good as a mcp655 on its own _thanks for any help!_


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Was just wondering if the pump in this pump res combo http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21022/ex-pmp-251/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_100_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_100_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank is as good as a mcp655 on its own _thanks for any help!_


The one with that reservoir is a VARIABLE speed MCP655/D5 pump, so they are basically IDENTICAL except the one with the res you can vary the speed on, a standard D5 pump is speed locked at the highest setting basically.

D5=MCP655 they are the exact same.........


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Was just wondering if the pump in this pump res combo http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21022/ex-pmp-251/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_100_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_100_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank is as good as a mcp655 on its own _thanks for any help!_
> 
> 
> 
> The one with that reservoir is a VARIABLE speed MCP655/D5 pump, so they are basically IDENTICAL except the one with the res you can vary the speed on, a standard D5 pump is speed locked at the highest setting basically.
> 
> D5=MCP655 they are the exact same.........
Click to expand...

The fixed speed runs at setting 4 v the Vario setting of 5. The jump for 4 to 5 is not linear either,its quite an improvement,not seen the PQ curve from the impeller but it must be in the sweet spot.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The fixed speed runs at setting 4 v the Vario setting of 5. The jump for 4 to 5 is not linear either,its quite an improvement,not seen the PQ curve from the impeller but it must be in the sweet spot.


Thanks B-, I didn't remember if it was 4 or 5 equivalent on the fixed speed.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Trying to do some homework on these fittings before i take the dive into acrylic....

PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression vs PrimoChill Rigid Revolver Compression,which are you using and why, also whats the difference between the two....?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Trying to do some homework on these fittings before i take the dive into acrylic....
> 
> PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression vs PrimoChill Rigid Revolver Compression,which are you using and why, also whats the difference between the two....?


I have used them both, and they work great. The "functioning" aspect of them is identical, in fact, the nickel plated brass base pieces are the exact same on both styles, the only physical difference between them is cosmetic, the revolver fittings aluminum ring is machined to a different profile, and there are little cosmetic holes drilled in the face around where the tubing is inserted. On the "ghost" fitting, the aluminum ring is just kind of square machined and flat faced.

So it just really comes down to which one you like the looks of most; functionally, they are identical.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I have used them both, and they work great. The "functioning" aspect of them is identical, in fact, the nickel plated brass base pieces are the exact same on both styles, the only physical difference between them is cosmetic, the revolver fittings aluminum ring is machined to a different profile, and there are little cosmetic holes drilled in the face around where the tubing is inserted. On the "ghost" fitting, the aluminum ring is just kind of square machined and flat faced.
> 
> So it just really comes down to which one you like the looks of most; functionally, they are identical.


Thx for the fast reply Jim,i'm leaning more to the revolvers (prefer the look)....Got another question,the monsoon kit isn't available in aus yet and shipping would cost more than the kit it self,how hard is it to make free hand bends....?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Wait what you don't need two pumps for that loop
> 
> 
> 
> You do with those dire,hateful,miserable,useless little DCLT pumps.......
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> It truly is an atrocious looking block though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And this...all the mass of the copper block has gone too. Costcutting and vile.
Click to expand...

Again we are much in agreement, both technically and aesthetically . . .









I thought about using that little pump once, to run a branch loop from, and back to, a res, just to circulate coolant thru an Aquaero waterblock . . .

Then realized I'd probably need at least two or three of them in series, just to do that, so changed the plan.

Atrocious is a very charitable adjective for that block, and if it's made anything like their fittings, QC wise, I'd stay far away.

Darlene


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx for the fast reply Jim,i'm leaning more to the revolvers (prefer the look)....Got another question,the monsoon kit isn't available in aus yet and shipping would cost more than the kit it self,how hard is it to make free hand bends....?


Free hand isn't that bad really, my first hard lined build I did free hand, it turned out just fine, the kit does make it nice to do complex bend measuring and forming, but it's not "necessary". If you take your time and all, it will look just fine.

Edit: I'll check back in a few hours, I gotta get some sleep.


----------



## Buzz247

Take a look at my current project is sig line - last page - some very interesting complex bends I had to do and did freehand. Not gonna say they are perfect or that I didn't waste a bunch of tubing learning, but yes can be done. There were times I used pipe cleaners, cut paper strips, etc to make the patterns I needed for reference to make the bends lol. Patience padawan - patience is key....


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Free hand isn't that bad really, my first hard lined build I did free hand, it turned out just fine, the kit does make it nice to do complex bend measuring and forming, but it's not "necessary". If you take your time and all, it will look just fine.
> 
> Edit: I'll check back in a few hours, I gotta get some sleep.


No prob,Thx again for the help....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Take a look at my current project is sig line - last page - some very interesting complex bends I had to do and did freehand. Not gonna say they are perfect or that I didn't waste a bunch of tubing learning, but yes can be done. There were times I used pipe cleaners, cut paper strips, etc to make the patterns I needed for reference to make the bends lol. Patience padawan - patience is key....


Thinking i may try doing it free hand,its just the longer it takes the longer i will be away from gaming....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I have used them both, and they work great. The "functioning" aspect of them is identical, in fact, the nickel plated brass base pieces are the exact same on both styles, the only physical difference between them is cosmetic, the revolver fittings aluminum ring is machined to a different profile, and there are little cosmetic holes drilled in the face around where the tubing is inserted. On the "ghost" fitting, the aluminum ring is just kind of square machined and flat faced.
> 
> So it just really comes down to which one you like the looks of most; functionally, they are identical.
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for the fast reply Jim,i'm leaning more to the revolvers (prefer the look)....Got another question,the monsoon kit isn't available in aus yet and shipping would cost more than the kit it self,how hard is it to make free hand bends....?
Click to expand...

"Freehand" doesn't have to mean totally without forming setups . . . ..

Most early acrylic tubers made up work boards like you use with the mandrel kits, that had objects like a 3/4" or 1" PVC pipe couplings fastened to it with maybe some additional alignment blocks so it was very similar to using a mandrels kit.

It allowed you to have the same radius for each bend to give the continuity in the overall look that makes it appealing when you look at it.

Once you've watched the videos, you can easily make something for yourself that gets you pretty close and gives you very acceptable bends.

Darlene


----------



## Buzz247

Using a flat surface and a "form" of the size of the inner diameter of you bend does help too. I pondered for quite a while trying to think of specific size things i could use... then it dawned on me - I have a bathroom, a gf, and a 17yr old daughter - there was a plethora of various round objects, bottles, cans in the bathroom and makeup bins!!! LMAO


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> "Freehand" doesn't have to mean totally without forming setups . . . ..
> 
> Most early acrylic tubers made up work boards like you use with the mandrel kits, that had objects like a 3/4" or 1" PVC pipe couplings fastened to it with maybe some additional alignment blocks so it was very similar to using a mandrels kit.
> 
> It allowed you to have the same radius for each bend to give the continuity in the overall look that makes it appealing when you look at it.
> 
> Once you've watched the videos, you can easily make something for yourself that gets you pretty close and gives you very acceptable bends.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Using a flat surface and a "form" of the size of the inner diameter of you bend does help too. I pondered for quite a while trying to think of specific size things i could use... then it dawned on me - I have a bathroom, a gf, and a 17yr old daughter - there was a plethora of various round objects, bottles, cans in the bathroom and makeup bins!!! LMAO


Thx for the advise,will look to see what i can use to do any complicated bends if i have to....If the free hand doesn't work out too well i could always get the kit after....


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's because we're both copying the same setup


And stick just made a copy of a copy! Thanks for the links. I don't like navigating Home Depot. So I had this cute little employee tag along and help. Unfortunately she didn't know anything or where to look for anything but we got everything sorted. She even cut me a deal on the pond pump. I got a 280GPH for $30. It rang up as $40 even though the sign it was under said $30 but that was for a different model that was out of stock. Apparently pond pumps are a seasonal item so the selection was weak.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Atrocious is a very charitable adjective for that block, and if it's made anything like their fittings, QC wise, I'd stay far away.
> ]


Yeah, great perf and 7 ports be damned...if AC somehow managed to make their rads as fugly and lacking some of their blocks I don't think they'd be quite so popular. Fortunately, that's pretty hard to do with a radiator. Thankfully, they don't stamp the word "Bleed" or something by the far port lol

Seriously who thought "IN" and "OUT" was a good idea? Some of their CPU blocks have that too.


----------



## Blatsz32

Ty for your help guys, I guess I'll pass on that block . I have to agree it is an atrocious block. As far as my rig, I haven't update my sig. I'm currently running 2 MSI 780TFs. I was experiencing high temps when I first got them, which would cause me to crash out of BF4. It seemed that when the cards reached past 80c it did something that would cause the game to crash and/or my comp. Maybe a throttling of some sort. Anyway, this isn't the thread to adress that, so just wanted to thank those that suggested better blocks and warned me about questioned block.


----------



## sebkow

anyone hear an update on hardline?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx for the advise,will look to see what i can use to do any complicated bends if i have to....If the free hand doesn't work out too well i could always get the kit after....


If it's any consolation I just started bending this week, both with the Monsoon tools and freehanded. Once you get the feel for when the acrylic get malleable enough to bend, that's when you start to feel more comfortable doing it. When I do it, I see a bit of a light brown tint to the acrylic in the area that I'm heating and twirling around. That's usually my cue to start forming my bend. Once it cools, the brown fades away. Not sure why the browning happens though, but it's very subtle when I see it. When my bend is complete, I may occasionally reheat the acrylic again to freehand a tighter bend.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bitspower's clear acrylic blocks used to be fully clear acrylic with no etching/laserwork.
> They came with a clear overlay sheet that had the logo's / branding on it which you could choose to put in place under 6 screws if you chose to.
> Wondering if anyone with current gen Bitspower blocks could confirm they are now etching the acrylic rather than giving the choice to use an overlay or not.
> 
> As an example here is VG-NTX580 blocks with overlay place - easy to remove with just those 6 black screws holding it in place.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both, waterblocks for titan have removable sheet with the logo, here's mine:
> 
> 
> 
> While for 780, 780ti, 7990 laser engaving
Click to expand...

So shiny!


----------



## Ragsters

Can you guys help me find 6-32 x 35mm screws? I need to add a 5mm gasket to my AX480 radiator.


----------



## rickyman0319

u can buy it from frozencpu.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g55/Screws.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g55/c479/s1483/list/p1/Screws-Screws_by_Thread-6-32_Thread_1_58_long-Page1.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me find 6-32 x 35mm screws? I need to add a 5mm gasket to my XSPC radiator.


You are mixing measurements...English thread w/ Metric length. You need to convert and find the closest match:

35mm is ~1.38in

Your options are 1.25" or 1.5"
1.25" is 31.75mm
1.5" is 38.1mm

1.25" is probably too short, so you should go with 1.5". Can always add in a washer if it is slightly too long

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21006/scr-719/6-32_x_1_12_Pan_Head_Screws_-_Stainless_Steel_-_4-Pack.html?tl=g55c479s2048


----------



## rickyman0319

1.40 is 35.9999 mm


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You are mixing measurements...English thread w/ Metric length. You need to convert and find the closest match:
> 
> 35mm is ~1.38in
> 
> Your options are 1.25" or 1.5"
> 1.25" is 31.75mm
> 1.5" is 38.1mm
> 
> 1.25" is probably too short, so you should go with 1.5". Can always add in a washer if it is slightly too long
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21006/scr-719/6-32_x_1_12_Pan_Head_Screws_-_Stainless_Steel_-_4-Pack.html?tl=g55c479s2048


Its not me who is mixing measurements. There are a couple of companies who mix units including Phobya, XSPC and even MDPC-X.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Its not me who is mixing measurements. There are a couple of companies who mix units including Phobya, XSPC and even MDPC-X.


Very true


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Why not make your own . . .
> 
> The Bitspower water tanks make an excellent base to start from since they comes in multiple lengths, and you can get single port, double port or triple port end caps for them, you can customize the setup to your needs.
> 
> Use a C47 on the inside of the cap inlet port and some E22 tube.
> 
> You could even add a cathode as well . . .
> 
> Darlene


I checked out the bitspower reservoirs and noticed that they appear to be threaded all the way to the inside. It seems as if I'd be able to screw in a fitting on the inside and pop in a custom length of chromed copper. I'm going to be using inlets and outlets at the base of the reservoir. I'd like to prevent the warmer water from going into the res and right back out. If i can pump the water up a riser tube, that would allow for a better chance of cooler water exiting the res. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me find 6-32 x 35mm screws?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You are mixing measurements...English thread w/ Metric length.


They are often called 35mm by European sellers, but those are actually 1 3/8" screws (at least the MDPC ones are). Think it's because most everyone outside North America has trouble with the vulgar fractions used in inches notation.


----------



## skupples

Anyone know if the "Bitspower Water Tank Z-Tube 250mm - Acrylic" is the same tube they use for the pre-assembled reservoirs?

PPC is sold out of the all clear variant, but it seems you can order all the parts by them selves & assemble it your self for just a few $$ more.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone know if the "Bitspower Water Tank Z-Tube 250mm - Acrylic" is the same tube they use for the pre-assembled reservoirs?
> 
> PPC is sold out of the all clear variant, but it seems you can order all the parts by them selves & assemble it your self for just a few $$ more.


It is,Bitspower sell all spares.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is,Bitspower sell all spares.


Thanks B! The only other thing i'm trying to find is a less ugly mount, the stock bitspower "plastic hose clamp" style is hard on my eyes.

is 50mm wide a standard?


----------



## Anoxy

Are RAM blocks made for specific models, or are there universal blocks?


----------



## Ithanul

Got a little bored for a bit. Decided to play around with the camera for a little bit.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Are RAM blocks made for specific models, or are there universal blocks?


I believe they are considered universal, but if I remember correctly, products like EK's monarch were originally designed to fit the OG Corsair Dom plats.


----------



## derickwm

They're basically universal. Some RAM sticks just natively support it like the Corsair Dominators, but for all other RAM you just buy a "module" that replaces the stock heatsink and then it's compatible with any RAM block.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I'm still on the fence on whether or not I should rip open my brand new Dominator Platinums to put under water. Maybe if I get a stronger itch to do it, I'll do it later on this year. By then I will have bought another pack of 32gb sticks.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks B! The only other thing i'm trying to find is a less ugly mount, the stock bitspower "plastic hose clamp" style is hard on my eyes.
> 
> is 50mm wide a standard?


One "standard".

Tube reservoirs usually are either 50mm OD or 60mm OD.

The Bitspower tube reservoirs are 60mm OD.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Why not make your own . . .
> 
> The Bitspower water tanks make an excellent base to start from since they comes in multiple lengths, and you can get single port, double port or triple port end caps for them, you can customize the setup to your needs.
> 
> Use a C47 on the inside of the cap inlet port and some E22 tube.
> 
> You could even add a cathode as well . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I checked out the bitspower reservoirs and noticed that they appear to be threaded all the way to the inside. It seems as if I'd be able to screw in a fitting on the inside and pop in a custom length of chromed copper. I'm going to be using inlets and outlets at the base of the reservoir. *I'd like to prevent the warmer water from going into the res and right back out. If i can pump the water up a riser tube, that would allow for a better chance of cooler water exiting the res.* Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
Click to expand...

Where do you guys get these ideas from . . .









The water in your res is all the same temp, within a fraction of one degree.

The res accounts for only a miniscule amount of cooling, and that almost only at the theoretical level.

Even a fair sized res changes the water completely every few seconds and a res has terrible thermal transmissive properties and not much surface area.

Use of a riser tube may reduce turbulence at the inlet port, and you can make a dandy fountain effect, but that water temp concept is bogus.

Darlene


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Where do you guys get these ideas from . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The water in your res is all the same temp, within a fraction of one degree.
> 
> The res accounts for only a miniscule amount of cooling, and that almost only at the theoretical level.
> 
> Even a fair sized res changes the water completely every few seconds and a res has terrible thermal transmissive properties and not much surface area.
> 
> Use of a riser tube may reduce turbulence at the inlet port, and you can make a dandy fountain effect, but that water temp concept is bogus.
> 
> Darlene


True, the difference between the warmer and cooler part of a loop is often as little as .1 to .5 c. That's nothing at all.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Where do you guys get these ideas from . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The water in your res is all the same temp, within a fraction of one degree.
> 
> The res accounts for only a miniscule amount of cooling, and that almost only at the theoretical level.
> 
> Even a fair sized res changes the water completely every few seconds and a res has terrible thermal transmissive properties and not much surface area.
> 
> Use of a riser tube may reduce turbulence at the inlet port, and you can make a dandy fountain effect, but that water temp concept is bogus.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> True, the difference between the warmer and cooler part of a loop is often as little as .1 to .5 c. That's nothing at all.
Click to expand...

To put actual numbers to it;

It takes 264 Watts to raise the water temp 1C with a 1GPM flow rate.

An overclocked hex core I7 E with 4 top end GPU's all maxed out is hard pressed to break 6C worth of added heat to be removed by the rads at max.

Darlene


----------



## TheSimon

Would you guys say that a 45mm thick double rad + 45mm thick triple rad with just 1 set of fans on each is enough to cool + overclock a 4770k and a gtx 780? My friends telling me to go 60mm thick on the triple rad but that would cause me to flip the direction of the double rad (im usin a corsair carbide 540 air) and make my loop much more complicated with more bends and fittings
EDIT: for clarification these are alphacool rads


----------



## Valgaur

Hey B NEG any new on finding a sr-2 mobo block??


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Would you guys say that a 45mm thick double rad + 45mm thick triple rad with just 1 set of fans on each is enough to cool + overclock a 4770k and a gtx 780? My friends telling me to go 60mm thick on the triple rad but that would cause me to flip the direction of the double rad (im usin a corsair carbide 540 air) and make my loop much more complicated with more bends and fittings
> EDIT: for clarification these are alphacool rads


If you are referring to using one each of the XT45 240mm & 360mm radiators, you will have more than enough radiator for a 4770 and 780 both with heavy overclocks. And still have cooling to upgrade to sli down the road if you chose to.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Would you guys say that a 45mm thick double rad + 45mm thick triple rad with just 1 set of fans on each is enough to cool + overclock a 4770k and a gtx 780? My friends telling me to go 60mm thick on the triple rad but that would cause me to flip the direction of the double rad (im usin a corsair carbide 540 air) and make my loop much more complicated with more bends and fittings
> EDIT: for clarification these are alphacool rads


What Jimhans says,i'm running sli 780's and an i7 3820 on a EX 360mm + EX 240mm rad and my temps are fine....So your2x45mm rads (360+240) will be more than adequate....


----------



## TheSimon

Also, I plan on doing acrylic tubing (1/2" OD 3/8" ID) would going with regular plastic tubing that has bigger diameters (3/4" OD 1/2" ID) help with my temps?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Also, I plan on doing acrylic tubing (1/2" OD 3/8" ID) would going with regular plastic tubing that has bigger diameters (3/4" OD 1/2" ID) help with my temps?


No. It will have no impact on flow rate or temperatures.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Trying to do some homework on these fittings before i take the dive into acrylic....
> 
> PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression vs PrimoChill Rigid Revolver Compression,which are you using and why, also whats the difference between the two....?


I'm using PrimoChill Ghost. I personally like the look of them.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'm using PrimoChill Ghost. I personally like the look of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thx for the pic,the ghost are out of stock at my regular pc store....How are those NB in push/pull....?


----------



## lowfat

I prefer the standard ghost fittings to the revolvers as well. They just look weird to me.

I may start bending the tubing for my rig here in the next couple of days. Just need to do a bit of metal work first.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-128.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-129.jpg.html


----------



## Killa Cam

^ monumental skills, breh


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I prefer the standard ghost fittings to the revolvers as well. They just look weird to me.
> 
> I may start bending the tubing for my rig here in the next couple of days. Just need to do a bit of metal work first.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-128.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-129.jpg.html


Free hand bending or the monsoon kit....?


----------



## rickyman0319

do u have shroud for p/p NB fans?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Free hand bending or the monsoon kit....?


I'd never ever freehand. Even if I didn't have the Monsoon kit I'd use some other object to make the bend around. However I do have the Monsoon kit and will be using it.


----------



## Jakewat

It would be nice to have access to one of the monsoon bending kits for consistently clean bends, but in my opinion it really isn't necessary. So far I've been doing all of my bends freehand with the help of a cutting mat for lining things up and it has actually been working quite well. One tip I do need though is with cutting the tube. Often I have cracked the tube because my hacksaw has gotten stuck, I have made a cutting guide so hopefully that helps keep the tube more still when cutting.


----------



## Ragsters

Found the screws I was looking for!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30655


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Found the screws I was looking for!
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30655


Those are 35mm, if you're not running through a panel, fangrill, or some spacer/washer, it will puncture your rad. Almost all standard screws are 30mm in length to fit 25mm thick fans and still have some room for a fan grill or pass through the cases panel (~5mm of space inside the rad).

Ebay and mcmastercarr.com are my first stops to get radiator screws. Picked up a pack of 50 M4x30mm hex black screws on ebay for $7 shipped


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those are 35mm, if you're not running through a panel, fangrill, or some spacer/washer, it will puncture your rad. Almost all standard screws are 30mm in length to fit 25mm thick fans and still have some room for a fan grill or pass through the cases panel (~5mm of space inside the rad).
> 
> Ebay and mcmastercarr.com are my first stops to get radiator screws. Picked up a pack of 50 M4x30mm hex black screws on ebay for $7 shipped


The trouble I was having was finding screws that would accommodate these. So now its going to be Fan>Case>Gasket>Radiator.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I prefer the standard ghost fittings to the revolvers as well. They just look weird to me.
> 
> I may start bending the tubing for my rig here in the next couple of days. Just need to do a bit of metal work first.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-128.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-129.jpg.html


Why are you re-doing the tubing? Did you change something?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Why are you re-doing the tubing? *Did you change something?*


Uh yes. The motherboard has been inverted. Pretty much the entire case is being rebuilt from the ground up.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Why are you re-doing the tubing? *Did you change something?*
> 
> 
> 
> Uh yes. The motherboard has been inverted. Pretty much the entire case is being rebuilt from the ground up.
Click to expand...

Nice!


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

decided to do a rebuild/upgrade to cooling... full watercool, 540 rad, dual d5 pumps, acrylic tubing.


----------



## stickg1

I got my pond pump set up. I actually tried to run it through my entire system. It was a slow trickle, I don't think it has enough arse to do that. So I had to section it off and its working much better.


----------



## kpoeticg

If you're running it through your whole loop, just turn your regular pump on and it'll fix the flowrate. When i wanna test for leaks i turn my MCP35x on and it speeds the flowrate right up


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx for the pic,the ghost are out of stock at my regular pc store....How are those NB in push/pull....?


I haven't tested the system yet since my leak test has failed. I have a leak at the bottom reservoir compression cap. I may go ahead and boot up my system anyway. Since the leak is at the bottom, there are no worries of getting any of the components wet. Also I did free hand bends with my acrylic tubing. I highly recommend at least getting the silicon tube insert as well.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I prefer the standard ghost fittings to the revolvers as well. They just look weird to me.
> 
> I may start bending the tubing for my rig here in the next couple of days. Just need to do a bit of metal work first.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-128.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-129.jpg.html


Nice work sir! Looking forward to more pics. I'm digging that Gigabyte mobo.


----------



## TheSimon

Do pump/res combos ensure that the pump never runs dry the same way as putting the reservoir directly above the pump does?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Do pump/res combos ensure that the pump never runs dry the same way as putting the reservoir directly above the pump does?


Yeah, they have the res feed the pump directly, so as long as you have enough fluid in there, they won't run dry


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Do pump/res combos ensure that the pump never runs dry the same way as putting the reservoir directly above the pump does?


You'd be good either way. Some people choose the combo for the simplicity of it and ofcourse aesthetics.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Do pump/res combos ensure that the pump never runs dry the same way as putting the reservoir directly above the pump does?


If it is a bay reservoir? No.









A lot of those are designed very poorly and will easily be able to pull air in to the loop still.


----------



## stickg1

Ugh, anyone have a Swiftech 355 in front of them? I was sleeving and forgot which dang wire is the ground and which is the 12v. Is yellow 12v or black? I'm pretty sure it's yellow but I don't want to fire it up if I'm wrong, lol.


----------



## lowfat

Yellow is 12V. Black is ground. Blue is RPM. And Green is PWM (if it is a MCP35X).


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I haven't tested the system yet since my leak test has failed. I have a leak at the bottom reservoir compression cap. I may go ahead and boot up my system anyway. Since the leak is at the bottom, there are no worries of getting any of the components wet. Also I did free hand bends with my acrylic tubing. I highly recommend at least getting the silicon tube insert as well.


Do you have a link to this silicone tube insert....? This the the one thats available here http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24177 ... Also will this be the perfect size for this tubing http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24128 ?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I just got these today and I had already disassembled them almost immediately. I'm extremely happy with the way these came out. All it took was some ultra thin matte black vinyl, a blade, and a steady hand. The whole process took less than a half hour. I'll do a leak test on it tomorrow, but I don't foresee any problems because of how thin the vinyl is.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1925.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1921.jpg.html


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yellow is 12V. Black is ground. Blue is RPM. And Green is PWM (if it is a MCP35X).


Thanks man, I was almost certain that was right, but I had one of those brain-fart moments where all the sudden I got really unsure of myself.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Do you have a link to this silicone tube insert....? This the the one thats available here http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24177 ... Also will this be the perfect size for this tubing http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24128 ?


Yes sir, that is the silicone tube I was referring to. It should be the right size for the acrylic tubing you've chosen. Might be a good idea to contact the seller to inquire on it though.


----------



## stickg1

Ah sweet, my first major watercooling derp. I knew it would happen sooner or later. I just completely soaked all of my HDDs trying to fill up my loop. Guess I'm not firing it up tonight!


----------



## iamkraine

I need your help guys! I'm trying to drain my loop cause there's a problem with an EK fitting that ek says have to be used with the inlet of the pump/res. 

Anyway I'm trying to drain it from my valve but no matter how much I spin and tilt the case the water isn't coming out. There is no pressure. My question is what if I turn the pump on for a second will that push the water through? I know the pump isn't suppose to run dry but will this work?


What the loop looks like:




I know the pictures suck... But any advise would be very much appreciated.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I need your help guys! I'm trying to drain my loop cause there's a problem with an EK fitting that ek says have to be used with the inlet of the pump/res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I'm trying to drain it from my valve but no matter how much I spin and tilt the case the water isn't coming out. There is no pressure. My question is what if I turn the pump on for a second will that push the water through? I know the pump isn't suppose to run dry but will this work?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the loop looks like:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know the pictures suck... But any advise would be very much appreciated.


Release the fill port cap on top of the res and you will see a difference....

Anyone using this fan controller http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26297 ...Currently using a lamptron FC5 v2,but with 3 fans on one channel on my top rad the rpm goes ****y,jumping back and fourth between 450-1450 rpm's and this is with corsair sp 120 at full speed....


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ah sweet, my first major watercooling derp. I knew it would happen sooner or later. I just completely soaked all of my HDDs trying to fill up my loop. Guess I'm not firing it up tonight!


Hah. I do stuff like this all the time; what can I say. For me it would only be "major" if the rig was on. Which of course wouldn't happen but just sayin. Some people are more careful and less klutzy (or intoxicated) than others of course but spilling is part of the hobby as far as I'm concerned. Never actually kills anything. Got my fan-up PSU covered with a towel at present though; lots of nooks and crannies in there!


----------



## stickg1

Yeah sometimes I get in a hurry and make bone-head mistakes. I had been drinking beer for a few hours but that's pretty much every night, so I can't blame it on that!

Everything seems pretty dry now anyway. I'm booted and running, I didn't put the HDDs back in yet but my OS is on the SSD mounted to my mobo tray.

I can't get enough of my little pond pump and filter loop. I love this thing. I'm just running rads for the hell of it at this point. Must be that beer...
(pardon the mess, I've been reeking havoc in this room today)



Also I had bought the Watts 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD before for dicking around, but they had a 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD too when I was there today so I bought that. It's even more rigid than Advance LRT. I'm going to run a little mini loop of it to see how quickly it plasicizes, if at all. Seems like the harder the tubing the less plasticizer in it right?


----------



## TrevJonez

Add me to the list please.

This is my second attempt at a custom loop. The first time was like 9 years ago on my old Athlon 64. And this thermaltake rocket rad.




The build log is here.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Add me to the list please.
> 
> This is my second attempt at a custom loop. The first time was like 9 years ago on my old Athlon 64. And this thermaltake rocket rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The build log is here.


That looks fantastic!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah sometimes I get in a hurry and make bone-head mistakes. I had been drinking beer for a few hours but that's pretty much every night, so I can't blame it on that!
> 
> Everything seems pretty dry now anyway. I'm booted and running, I didn't put the HDDs back in yet but my OS is on the SSD mounted to my mobo tray.
> 
> I can't get enough of my little pond pump and filter loop. I love this thing. I'm just running rads for the hell of it at this point. Must be that beer...
> (pardon the mess, I've been reeking havoc in this room today)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I had bought the Watts 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD before for dicking around, but they had a 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD too when I was there today so I bought that. It's even more rigid than Advance LRT. I'm going to run a little mini loop of it to see how quickly it plasicizes, if at all. Seems like the harder the tubing the less plasticizer in it right?


The Watts Tubing will plasticize QUICKLY. I use it for my flushing setup also, but i def don't recommend running a loop with it.

Also, if you cut a piece of PVC it makes a great base to keep your filter sturdy





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Add me to the list please.
> 
> This is my second attempt at a custom loop. The first time was like 9 years ago on my old Athlon 64. And this thermaltake rocket rad.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The build log is here.


Great work. Build looks excellent!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If it is a bay reservoir? No.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of those are designed very poorly and will easily be able to pull air in to the loop still.


kinda like the swiftech maelstrom with mcp35x2!!!! That's why they provide the sponge, i'm convinced.


----------



## TheSimon

Was looking at this pump res combo and was wondering which holes are possible intakes and which are outtakes (im new to watercooling, but im assuming you'll be able to tell by size cause some are bigger than others) http://puu.sh/6yqzq.jpg and http://puu.sh/6yqAr.jpg , also if anyone could tell me the dimensions of this thing that would be great since i cant seem to find it anywhere, i know tube diameter is 60mm and its height is 150-ish but i cant find the width/depth of the top that the res sits on its important to me as this will be a tight fit, thanks!


----------



## SDMODNoob

Had to redo my loop in order to fit in QDC's


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I had to make that cross in the rear in order to connect the QDC on top of my bridge. I replaced the top of my EK x3 150 res with a multiport and now have a return pathway from the cpu to the top. I do notice now that it makes more noise this way and I don't believe there is an internal fill tube for that size of res. Do you guys have any suggestions on what I can improve on here for a better route or that noise issue from the coolant returning into the res? I have also bought a EK x3 250 res tube and EK x3 Internal tube 140mm. but I found it impossible to mount in that rear position because it hits the exhaust fan.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Had to redo my loop in order to fit in QDC's
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to make that cross in the rear in order to connect the QDC on top of my bridge. I replaced the top of my EK x3 150 res with a multiport and now have a return pathway from the cpu to the top. I do notice now that it makes more noise this way and I don't believe there is an internal fill tube for that size of res. Do you guys have any suggestions on what I can improve on here for a better route or that noise issue from the coolant returning into the res? I have also bought a EK x3 250 res tube and EK x3 Internal tube 140mm. but I found it impossible to mount in that rear position because it hits the exhaust fan.


Is the noise because water is falling down into the reservoir? If so, could you just grab a bitspower aqua-pipe for the top of the res?

edit: or is it too long for your res. Just noticed you said you didn't think that they made one for that size.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Ah thanks for pointing me in the direction of an aqua-pipe never really seen that until now. However we run into the issue of the length. The EK x3 150 res is just so short and I have been looking around but I don't think there is an inner tube for such a small res?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Ah thanks for pointing me in the direction of an aqua-pipe never really seen that until now. However we run into the issue of the length. The EK x3 150 res is just so short and I have been looking around but I don't think there is an inner tube for such a small res?


Try this out, it's made for that exact reservoir with the multi option top on it.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36310

And what is up with San Diego? Seems like I know a lot of OCN members are there! Seems like service members like OCN I guess?


----------



## SDMODNoob

Wow... that is exactly what I was looking for. I swear it was not there last week when I was purchasing parts. Much appreciated Jimhans1. I am actually not a service member Jim lol, it is just a coincidence I suppose. It is odd actually, I notice a good # of people here from SD as well yet when I was looking for modding/custom PC services I could not find anything anywhere down here.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Wow... that is exactly what I was looking for. I swear it was not there last week when I was purchasing parts. Much appreciated Jimhans1. I am actually not a service member Jim lol, it is just a coincidence I suppose. It is odd actually, I notice a good # of people here from SD as well yet when *I was looking for modding/custom PC services I could not find anything anywhere down here.*


Yeah, they all seem to be more east coast for that. I guess when your stuck inside due to foul weather what else are you gonna do?


----------



## TheSimon

Also for gpu blocks (ill be using a gtx 780 classified hydrocopper, single card not SLI) can any hole be the inlet as long as the other is the outlet or are the inlet and outlet designated holes, thanks!


----------



## stickg1

East Coast wut!

The weather is nice here on Hilton Head Island in South Carolina. Although yesterday was pretty cold.

Gotta love those 100F summers with 100% humidity and it ain't even raining!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> East Coast wut!
> 
> The weather is nice here on Hilton Head Island in South Carolina. Although yesterday was pretty cold.
> 
> Gotta love those 100F summers with 100% humidity and it ain't even raining!


Lol, I'm only an hour and a half south of you! And it was pretty cold last night!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> The trouble I was having was finding screws that would accommodate these. So now its going to be Fan>Case>Gasket>Radiator.


Gotcha


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Also for gpu blocks (ill be using a gtx 780 classified hydrocopper, single card not SLI) can any hole be the inlet as long as the other is the outlet or are the inlet and outlet designated holes, thanks!


Yes, there isn't a specified inlet/outlet on the HC cards, you could use both top ports at same time, both bottom ports at same time, or opposing sides top/bottom (ie: top front and bottom rear or vise-versa)


----------



## TheSimon

Im going to be using primochill acrylic tubing (1/2" OD 3/8" ID) so can i use bitspower 90 deg fittings that are designed for those outer and inner diameters? I'm only concerned because it doesent state explicitly its for rigid acrylic like some of their other non angled fittings.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Im going to be using primochill acrylic tubing (1/2" OD 3/8" ID) so can i use bitspower 90 deg fittings that are designed for those outer and inner diameters? I'm only concerned because it doesent state explicitly its for rigid acrylic like some of their other non angled fittings.


Bitspower makes NO fittings that work with 1/2" Rigid Acrylic Tubing. All of their compression fittings are for flexible tubing only.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Add me to the list please.
> 
> This is my second attempt at a custom loop. The first time was like 9 years ago on my old Athlon 64. And this thermaltake rocket rad.
> 
> 
> **
> 
> The build log is here.


What im seeing here is the new case for my SR2....That rad pedestal has sold me.

EDIT: CNC'd rad box by the builder...Not the case for me after all.....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What im seeing here is the new case for my SR2....That rad pedestal has sold me.


B-, I don't think that thing will fit an HPTX board....... At least without some major surgery.......


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What im seeing here is the new case for my SR2....That rad pedestal has sold me.
> 
> 
> 
> B-, I don't think that thing will fit an HPTX board....... *At least without some major surgery*.......
Click to expand...

Exactly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I got a new toy...a macro lens. I couldnt help have a play with it and setting up the Phobya RGB light kit...in true Phobya fashion the kit then packed up after about 15 mins of use..and a connector was missing so i could only use 1 of the 2 RGB strips in the top....











Very disappointed in YET another Phobya product dying almost immediately.....not surprised tho,just disappointed...


----------



## _REAPER_




----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys,i'm going to be grabbing 3 more fans for my EX 360 to run it in push/pull,are these the right screws to use http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25486 so the screw wont go too far in and damage the fins....?


----------



## kpoeticg

If you have no grills or gaskets then 30mm is usually right. If you have gaskets or anything else, you might want 35mm


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you have no grills or gaskets then 30mm is usually right. If you have gaskets or anything else, you might want 35mm


I will be mounting them at the top of my rad,so it will be case/fans/rad,would the case top be considered a grill (an extra 5mm)....?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Was looking at this pump res combo and was wondering which holes are possible intakes and which are outtakes (im new to watercooling, but im assuming you'll be able to tell by size cause some are bigger than others) http://puu.sh/6yqzq.jpg and http://puu.sh/6yqAr.jpg , also if anyone could tell me the dimensions of this thing that would be great since i cant seem to find it anywhere, i know tube diameter is 60mm and its height is 150-ish but i cant find the width/depth of the top that the res sits on its important to me as this will be a tight fit, thanks!


Has the general dimensions here http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-d5-vario-x-res-100-incl-pump.html
The width/depth is the same as the one here http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-PSS/EK-PSS-3831109842584.pdf
Installation manual here http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842782.pdf


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Was looking at this pump res combo and was wondering which holes are possible intakes and which are outtakes (im new to watercooling, but im assuming you'll be able to tell by size cause some are bigger than others) http://puu.sh/6yqzq.jpg and http://puu.sh/6yqAr.jpg , also if anyone could tell me the dimensions of this thing that would be great since i cant seem to find it anywhere, i know tube diameter is 60mm and its height is 150-ish but i cant find the width/depth of the top that the res sits on its important to me as this will be a tight fit, thanks!


All that info is available from the product page.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-d5-x-res-top-100-csq-black-acetal.html
The pump outlet is the lower port and the inlets are on either side. The installation instructions show which is which in detail. The dimensions are on the product specification sheet.

Edit: derp, beaten to it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I will be mounting them at the top of my rad,so it will be case/fans/rad,would the case top be considered a grill (an extra 5mm)....?


On mine I,m pretty sure even with the rubber grommets on the top grill that the 30mm screws still fit. I took the grommets out and 30mm was plenty long enough.


----------



## nepToon

It's not yet fully completed but its up and running.
Still todo: replace soft tube with rigid acrylic tube, sleeve bottom fan, add EK Sticker to RAM block.

Specs:
Arc Mini r2
Asus ROG Z87 Gene
i5-4670K @ 4.5 Ghz
4x4Gb Corsair Dominator GT 2133Mhz
Club 3D 13"Series 7970
Corsair AX760

Cooling:
EKWB Supremacy clear
EKWB M6G Mosfet
EKWB Monarch CSQ polished
Watercool Heatkiller 79x0 black nickel
XSPC EX 360 x-flow, EX240
Laing DDC with EKWB DDC X-res 140
EKWB HDTube 12/16, HD Thread adapters black
6x Scythe Gentle Typhoons AP15


----------



## stickg1

The only thing about macro lenses is that it makes everything look dirty. You can see every little speck of dust.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

More pics of my modified R4BE blocks. 2000 grit sandpaper and acrylic polish is hard to find, but I'll get it done sooner or later.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1936.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1937.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1935.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1940.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1941.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1942.jpg.html


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I will be mounting them at the top of my rad,so it will be case/fans/rad,would the case top be considered a grill (an extra 5mm)....?


Absolutely do NOT use 35mm in that configuration. I made that mistake once and punctured an EK 480 rad in two places. I had accidentally mixed a few 35mm screws in my pile of 30mm's.


----------



## skupples

The only time I have found using 35mm screws necessary is when going through the case, through the fan, + through A GASKET before hitting the rad. Though, some rads do give you extra space between the housing & the fins. the EK 480 cool stream's have ~6-8 mm of screw space.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> East Coast wut!
> 
> The weather is nice here on Hilton Head Island in South Carolina. Although yesterday was pretty cold.
> 
> Gotta love those 100F summers with 100% humidity and it ain't even raining!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, I'm only an hour and a half south of you! And it was pretty cold last night!


woke up this morning...... -15 temperature -43 windchill







and that's when i still only wear a coat. gotta love north dakota


----------



## ryanallan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> It's not yet fully completed but its up and running.
> Still todo: replace soft tube with rigid acrylic tube, sleeve bottom fan, add EK Sticker to RAM block.


Nice photo


----------



## MiiX

What can I do to maintain my rig as little as possible?
I'm thinking of materials in blocks/fittings/etc, coolant, type of tube, etc.

I'm aiming at a max of once per year, if possible.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What can I do to maintain my rig as little as possible?
> I'm thinking of materials in blocks/fittings/etc, coolant, type of tube, etc.
> 
> I'm aiming at a max of once per year, if possible.


Acrylic tubing and Mayhems coolant. Nuff said.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Acrylic tubing and Mayhems coolant. Nuff said.


X1/XT-1/Pastel/Ultra Pure H20?

Will nickle/copper/etc blocks make a difference?


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> X1/XT-1/Pastel/Ultra Pure H20?
> 
> Will nickle/copper/etc blocks make a difference?


I would use X1 (unless you want pastel, which is also a perfectly good option). Both nickel and copper are fine.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I would use X1 (unless you want pastel, which is also a perfectly good option). Both nickel and copper are fine.


On their web they say that the Pastel can do 3 years and that the X1 should be changed every 9-12 months. I like how X1 looks, but Pastel seems to require less maintenance...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> More pics of my modified R4BE blocks. 2000 grit sandpaper and acrylic polish is hard to find, but I'll get it done sooner or later.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1936.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1937.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1935.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1940.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1941.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1942.jpg.html


Nice. Have you try Taps Plastic? I bought some acrylic cleaner/polisher from there, and I saw a great selection of sandpaper all the way above 2000 grit. Though not sure if any are in South part of California.

Dang, I just checked their site. Most if not all their store sites are in North part of California.


----------



## EliteReplay

Nice job guys...


----------



## Lefik

Have you guys seen these?


It's an acrylic tube with G 1/4 tapped on the ends. You could turn these into a bunch of smaller reservoirs, or add some color to your copper tubing loop. Getting lots of ideas


----------



## VSG

Ya, I was considering them instead of the bitspower extenders I got but I did not want to be the guinea pig and find out they were not leak proof


----------



## luciddreamer124

Those are stupidly expensive and don't even look as good as regular acrylic fitting configurations in my opinion.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Lol, I'm only an hour and a half south of you! And it was pretty cold last night!


It was fairly cold the other night. I'm near your neck of the woods btw. The fam and I usually go down there in the summer time to enjoy the nice beach wearher.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> East Coast wut!
> 
> The weather is nice here on Hilton Head Island in South Carolina. Although yesterday was pretty cold.
> 
> Gotta love those 100F summers with 100% humidity and it ain't even raining!


It does get damn humid in these parts. I've been to Hilton Head a time or two. I used to live in Savannah on the weekends when I was station at Ft. Stewart.

Anywho, hopefully the long hot summers won't have much of an affect on my system. I suppose I'll have to keep the A/C kickin'!


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> stupidly expensive


there are so many overpriced things in water cooling.

Radiators that perform 2 degrees better then ones half their price
Compression fittings that cost 8$ each
Acrylic tube reservoirs that cost 50$

Just to name a few.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I will be mounting them at the top of my rad,so it will be case/fans/rad,would the case top be considered a grill (an extra 5mm)....?


Sorry, i went to sleep shortly after i responded. Like everybody else said, your chassis shouldn't affect your screw size. Most cases are made of 1-2mm thick metal or less.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> there are so many overpriced things in water cooling.
> 
> Radiators that perform 2 degrees better then ones half their price
> Compression fittings that cost 8$ each
> Acrylic tube reservoirs that cost 50$
> 
> Just to name a few.


I know. But $8 for a 10 cm tube when you can get 1 meter of E22 for about the same? ... Naw....


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Have you guys seen these?
> 
> 
> It's an acrylic tube with G 1/4 tapped on the ends. You could turn these into a bunch of smaller reservoirs, or add some color to your copper tubing loop. Getting lots of ideas


I don't think they look any better than anything. It's just ugly to show the threads on the acrylic.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I don't think they look any better than anything. It's just ugly to show the threads on the acrylic.


They do sell those on eBay for cheaper.......


----------



## Hefner

Let's not start about prices guys. We all know how overpriced WC is in general.


----------



## djriful

Best reservoir I've seen is this blood pouch... or bag.

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2010/renovatio/038.htm


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Have you guys seen these?
> 
> 
> It's an acrylic tube with G 1/4 tapped on the ends. You could turn these into a bunch of smaller reservoirs, or add some color to your copper tubing loop. Getting lots of ideas


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, I was considering them instead of the bitspower extenders I got but I did not want to be the guinea pig and find out they were not leak proof


They don't leak - somewhere I posted a video of test set up with them in it.
Just be very careful and must keep them square when installing - don't try to bend over or tweak into place








I had one just slightly off square that caused a star fracture at thread which I am certain would have leaked - but never got that far.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I don't think they look any better than anything. It's just ugly to show the threads on the acrylic.


The threads will be hidden by where the male fitting threads in.


----------



## fast_fate




----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> All that info is available from the product page.
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-d5-x-res-top-100-csq-black-acetal.html
> The pump outlet is the lower port and the inlets are on either side. The installation instructions show which is which in detail. The dimensions are on the product specification sheet.
> 
> Edit: derp, beaten to it.
> On mine I,m pretty sure even with the rubber grommets on the top grill that the 30mm screws still fit. I took the grommets out and 30mm was plenty long enough.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Absolutely do NOT use 35mm in that configuration. I made that mistake once and punctured an EK 480 rad in two places. I had accidentally mixed a few 35mm screws in my pile of 30mm's.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The only time I have found using 35mm screws necessary is when going through the case, through the fan, + through A GASKET before hitting the rad. Though, some rads do give you extra space between the housing & the fins. the EK 480 cool stream's have ~6-8 mm of screw space.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sorry, i went to sleep shortly after i responded. Like everybody else said, your chassis shouldn't affect your screw size. Most cases are made of 1-2mm thick metal or less.


Thx for the responses guys,30 mm it is then....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx for the responses guys,30 mm it is then....


if you happen to have a non international conglomerate hardware store near by they will likely care what you need.. Ace Hardware, or any locally owned joint that also has plumbing & other stuff will likely carry the screws you are looking for. I get all of my rad screws from the local hardware store. They are .04C a piece. They aren't metric, but I really don't care @ that price.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Best reservoir I've seen is this blood pouch... or bag.


That was the mod that really opened my eyes to the hobby.



Just look at the pump, it's a beautiful idea.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Have you guys seen these?
> 
> 
> It's an acrylic tube with G 1/4 tapped on the ends. You could turn these into a bunch of smaller reservoirs, or add some color to your copper tubing loop. Getting lots of ideas


Someone should use four of these around a tube res with a block fitting of some sort







would look more awesome but still as hard to tie in in a build than the frozenq helix reservoirs


----------



## sinnedone

Have a quick question for any alphacool st30 280mm and monsta 280mm owners.

Now being that the st30 length measurement is screwed up for some reason.(websites say 278mm length but 2 140mm fans on their own is 280mm so that's definitely wrong) I wanted to know if I could get someone to help with an actual measurement of both a st30 and monsta 280mm radiators length?

Aquatuning lists the st30 as 314.5mm in length and mostly all sites list xt45, ut60, monsta as 324mm length. I just want to make sure since I would be working in tight clearances for what I want to do.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## darwing




----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That was the mod that really opened my eyes to the hobby.
> 
> 
> 
> Just look at the pump, it's a beautiful idea.


Nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Have a quick question for any alphacool st30 280mm and monsta 280mm owners.
> 
> Now being that the st30 length measurement is screwed up for some reason.(websites say 278mm length but 2 140mm fans on their own is 280mm so that's definitely wrong) I wanted to know if I could get someone to help with an actual measurement of both a st30 and monsta 280mm radiators length?
> 
> Aquatuning lists the st30 as 314.5mm in length and mostly all sites list xt45, ut60, monsta as 324mm length. I just want to make sure since I would be working in tight clearances for what I want to do.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Is this what you're looking for?
http://www.alphacool.com/download/280-140-30.pdf

Found the drawing here:-
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1247_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-280mm.html


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> if you happen to have a non international conglomerate hardware store near by they will likely care what you need.. Ace Hardware, or any locally owned joint that also has plumbing & other stuff will likely carry the screws you are looking for. I get all of my rad screws from the local hardware store. They are .04C a piece. They aren't metric, but I really don't care @ that price.


I did this, but the screws they gave me were really ugly. The quality just isn't the same as radiator screws you find online at watercooling shops.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I did this, but the screws they gave me were really ugly. The quality just isn't the same as radiator screws you find online at watercooling shops.


If you know what you're looking for, the screws will be the same or better... A screw is a screw.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> If you know what you're looking for, the screws will be the same or better... *A screw is a screw.*


There are definitely different grades of screws and bolts my friend. And honestly, I usually get my screws from a local store, it's the supplier and quality of the screws that gets me to buy them there. I also do bulk buys from www.mcmaster.com and they are carrying great quality screws.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Nice. Have you try Taps Plastic? I bought some acrylic cleaner/polisher from there, and I saw a great selection of sandpaper all the way above 2000 grit. Thouh not sure if any are in South partof California.
> 
> Dang, I just checked their site. Most if not all their store sites are in North part of California.


I ended up finding a combo pack of 1500 & 2000 grit paper and acrylic polisher gel at my local Pep Boys. The blocks are completely done, and they passed the leak test with flying colors. The next time you see them, they'll be installed on the motherboard.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> If you know what you're looking for, the screws will be the same or better... A screw is a screw.


Not really. They come in all different finishes and head designs. The ones they gave me are ugly bluish steel....so perhaps I need to find another hardware store.


----------



## pc-illiterate

darwing, is your video card going to fit in the space you have after putting the res there?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> darwing, is your video card going to fit in the space you have after putting the res there?


yup already measured it







LOL you think I would go to all this trouble without measuring a vital thing like that after creating a entire new backplate LOL









780TI length is 10.5 IN, same as the 7970 (which I think I may have in there first due to finances...), which reaches just close to the edge of the graumets. I could move the res over a little but as for now this is all just placements, measuring and seeing where and if thins will go the way I want them, I have to dismantle it all and do more cutting and painting and fabrications.

total work in progress, as well got to get all the LEDs behind there before I mount everything so yea this is just a teaser


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> yup already measured it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL you think I would go to all this trouble without measuring a vital thing like that after creating a entire new backplate LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 780TI length is 10.5 IN, same as the 7970 (which I think I may have in there first due to finances...), which reaches just close to the edge of the graumets. I could move the res over a little but as for now this is all just placements, measuring and seeing where and if thins will go the way I want them, I have to dismantle it all and do more cutting and painting and fabrications.
> 
> total work in progress, as well got to get all the LEDs behind there before I mount everything so yea this is just a teaser


Hey @darwing

Loving that black/gold theme. Looking good sir. I do have one question, and this is just MY OCD, so no offense intended whatsoever, but there are two different radiators in that thing, and they are from different makers, is there a reason you went with them like that (ie: thickness, or dimensions etc.)? Just curious, like I said, just my OCD wondering.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> yup already measured it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL you think I would go to all this trouble without measuring a vital thing like that after creating a entire new backplate LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 780TI length is 10.5 IN, same as the 7970 (which I think I may have in there first due to finances...), which reaches just close to the edge of the graumets. I could move the res over a little but as for now this is all just placements, measuring and seeing where and if thins will go the way I want them, I have to dismantle it all and do more cutting and painting and fabrications.
> 
> total work in progress, as well got to get all the LEDs behind there before I mount everything so yea this is just a teaser


youd be amazed how many people measure once and cut 2,3,4 and even more times. as you know, i was just asking and not calling you a derp...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Is this what you're looking for?
> http://www.alphacool.com/download/280-140-30.pdf
> 
> Found the drawing here:-
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1247_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-280mm.html


Thank you for the link.

I am actually wondering if someone has these rads to verify the length dimension. The slight discrepancies might mean the difference between it fitting and not.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey @darwing
> 
> Loving that black/gold theme. Looking good sir. I do have one question, and this is just MY OCD, so no offense intended whatsoever, but there are two different radiators in that thing, and they are from different makers, is there a reason you went with them like that (ie: thickness, or dimensions etc.)? Just curious, like I said, just my OCD wondering.


Absolutely, these are two 420 rads the heights had to come to a max combined height of 520 mm to be safe. So we needed a 30mm thick rad on top + fan (25mm) the a 420 standing is 460mm giving me less than 5mm to play with. Even the thought of where the inlet and outlets on the rads were taken into account for the tube routing the xspc has wider ports and the ek has closer ports, also the ek is a thicker rad in the front because there is more available space there. The closer the ports on the ek allowed for a straight shot back into the top of the res...

So yeah I've been researching this to a T this far







and trust me I'm OCD to I am remaking the acrylic piece because the space on the left and right of to the fans isn't centered so I can give it another 3/4" in thickness and move the res over a bit more...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> youd be amazed how many people measure once and cut 2,3,4 and even more times. as you know, i was just asking and not calling you a derp...


Trust me I know lol I used to be "just get it done " modder no matter how it looked but not I realize it take so much time effort and rethinking the measurements. It sucks when you are almost done and you screw something up... I'm the KING of that!!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, he was just looking out for ya bro. I personally am more than happy for anybody on here to let me know if they think I may have missed something or got something wrong in a pic I post. You're probably right!


----------



## Anoxy

I'm looking at some Aquacomputer rads and it looks like they come in Aluminum fins or Copper fins. Copper is quite a bit more expensive, will it really provide much better cooling?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm looking at some Aquacomputer rads and it looks like they come in Aluminum fins or Copper fins. Copper is quite a bit more expensive, will it really provide much better cooling?


Copper is one of the best thermally conductive, inexpensive metals out there. But it costs more than aluminum, and aluminum is no slouch on thermal conductivity either, but it can only transfer heat at about half the rate of copper in free air. And aluminum is also more prone to thermal expansion and contraction at lower temperatures than copper is.

Here's a chart showing where different materials stack up on thermal conductivity.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html


----------



## Jameswalt1

Be cautious of the size of those things also, I had to modify my 900D a little to fit them in properly. Obviously this depends on the rad length you get but be aware that even if you get one that houses 120mm fans it still has the same overall dimensions as its 140mm brother.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That was the mod that really opened my eyes to the hobby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just look at the pump, it's a beautiful idea.


That is pretty damned glorious! Those pumps are power houses too! The tubing is so teeny! I for some reason had it in my head that big tube = better tube when I first started doing all of this. This has pretty much forced me to continue using 1/2x3/4 tubing due to the price of fittings. I'll be doing a 100% ground up this time next year, which will be my first acrylic get up. (waiting on amd & nvidia to release 20nm)

Just ordered my tube res & R4BE mobo blocks. Went with the white top Bitspower 250mm res. I think it's going to look really good next to an all black system.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Be cautious of the size of those things also, I had to modify my 900D a little to fit them in properly. Obviously this depends on the rad length you get but be aware that even if you get one that houses 120mm fans it still has the same overall dimensions as its 140mm brother.


Thanks for the heads up. I'm referencing a build with the same case i plan to use so it should work out alright.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Copper is one of the best thermally conductive, inexpensive metals out there. But it costs more than aluminum, and aluminum is no slouch on thermal conductivity either, but it can only transfer heat at about half the rate of copper in free air. And aluminum is also more prone to thermal expansion and contraction at lower temperatures than copper is.
> 
> Here's a chart showing were different materials stack up on thermal conductivity.
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html


Interesting chart, thanks. Synthetic diamond waterblocks are the future!


----------



## Ironsmack

Finally got my R9 290 after a month and a half wait.

This is just a temporary setup till I can afford another 290.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

So i plan on buying one of these tomorrow,and i just want to make sure i'll install it properly....

I will be using in my res,so do i let it touch the water or just the upper part of the res (air pocket)....?

XSPC LCD Temperature Display Red V2 + G1/4in Plug Sensor

https://imageshack.com/i/f2uebej

Also plan on grabbing a new fan controller....

Phobya Touch 6 Controller 5.25in Single Bay Black

https://imageshack.com/i/0rgdyxj

From a review site....
Quote:


> Furthermore it supports voltage control of any three or four pin devices, including pumps


Has anyone ever used this particular fan controller on their pump....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Phobya....avoid like herpes.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So i plan on buying one of these tomorrow,and i just want to make sure i'll install it properly....
> 
> I will be using in my res,so do i let it touch the water or just the upper part of the res (air pocket)....?
> 
> XSPC LCD Temperature Display Red V2 + G1/4in Plug Sensor
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/f2uebej
> 
> Also plan on grabbing a new fan controller....
> 
> Phobya Touch 6 Controller 5.25in Single Bay Black
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/0rgdyxj
> 
> From a review site....
> Has anyone ever used this particular fan controller on their pump....


the XSPC LCD Temperature Display is good I have 2 one for etch PC

but I would not get the Phobya Touch 6 Controller

I have the Lamptron Touch 6 Controller and it is way better


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> the XSPC LCD Temperature Display is good I have 2 one for etch PC
> 
> but I would not get the Phobya Touch 6 Controller
> 
> I have the Lamptron Touch 6 Controller and it is way better


Ok guys will stay away from that controller,what about the xspc sensor,do i fill the res to the brim and let it touch the water or just the air above the water....?

Found the lamptron 6,but i really wanted to avoid buying from 2 different places to save on shipping....Hopefully i can find a store that stocks both....


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So i plan on buying one of these tomorrow,and i just want to make sure i'll install it properly....
> 
> I will be using in my res,so do i let it touch the water or just the upper part of the res (air pocket)....?


You want the temp probe in the water, not in the air.

Something else to consider is an inline temp sensor, and yeah, it's Phobya, but it's reasonably accurate, and it's inexpensive, and AC and Koolance make versions as well if you've been scared off of Phobya. Nice thing about that type of sensor is you have more mounting options than a G1/4 plug sensor, as it can go pretty much anywhere on the loop where there's a G1/4 fitting.

I actually run a plug sensor in the third bottom port of my my tube res, which is right after the coolant passes through my CPU and GPUs, and one of the Phobya inline sensors on my radiator outlet (after a full pass through the pump and both rads) right before it hits the hot bits, just because I like knowing that delta. (in the picture below you can the Phobya sensor stacked with my rotary on the 240 feeding to the CPU, upper right)


----------



## kpoeticg

One of the most attractive things about the Phobya Inline Sensors is that the Matte Black versions are Brass. No Nickel.

Also, the Inline Sensors have no flow restricition. Any temp sensor that has a probe sticking out of it is gonna cause at least a little restriction. I have 6 of the Phobya Inline Sensors myself

THESE are the ones i have that are only Brass


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> One of the most attractive things about the Phobya Inline Sensors is that the Matte Black versions are Brass. No Nickel.
> Also, the Inline Sensors have no flow restricition. Any temp sensor that has a probe sticking out of it is gonna cause at least a little restriction. I have 6 of the Phobya Inline Sensors myself
> 
> THESE are the ones i have that are only Brass


That's actually the same one I have.


----------



## williamHL

Can someone help me...?

I just want know if the rad 240 slim , swiftech MCR220, fit at the botton of the Lian Li Pc Q08.... under the HD bays...

(sorry my bad english)

biggrin.gif

I wanted one case (SFF) that i can put one rad EX120 and one MCR220 (240)


----------



## stickg1

I just used my XSPC sensor on a little T fitting. Works pretty well. Amazing how much difference fan speed makes on my delta temps. I'm only using 2x 120mm rads right now. I had the fans on 100% last night, water temp 30C folding my GPU. Switched the fans to 75% and the water temp rose to 33C in about 4 minutes.


----------



## CroakV

Thing is, 33c is just fine. Hell, I see 40C+ reservoir temps after extended gaming sessions with my fans spinning at 600RPM or so (and my pump at 2400 RPM), but it still keeps my GPU temps in the mid 40's and CPU in the very low 70's. Good enough for me!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Thing is, 33c is just fine. Hell, I see 40C+ reservoir temps after extended gaming sessions with my fans spinning at 600RPM or so (and my pump at 2400 RPM), but it still keeps my GPU temps in the mid 40's and CPU in the very low 70's. Good enough for me!


Hey, I once saw 54ºC on my water temperatures because I had fans at like ~800rpm, it was 41ºC outside and my room had a nice 37ºC ambient.


----------



## mavisky

New Watercooling setup

Coolermaster Haf-XB
EVGA GTX670
AMD FX-8350
Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0
EK cpu and southbridge blocks (south bridge block used mainly for looks and routing)
Swiftech MCW82 universal GPU block
Swiftech radiators
Aerocool Shark 120mm fans
dual Swiftech MicroRes
Mixed fittings
Alphacool tubing

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1434_zps302e083b.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1435_zpsf1f4c980.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1436_zps83c843f5.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1437_zpseae8cbc0.jpg.html


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh man it's all coming together pretty nicely. Extra sweet and a relief in my case (no pun) cause due to limited budget I can't really plan the whole loop and often have to buy used parts and just figure it all out as I go along.

_Hmm crap this single 140mm won't quite fit on the bottom due to PSU cables; I guess I'll have to put it upright&#8230;thank god for the six ports on this AC rad. But crap how will I mount it upright&#8230;hey what's this hanging off the drive bay? 140mm fan clips?! YESSSS!!"_


----------



## LunaP

Question on PWM pumps, I'm still sorting out the issues with why my pump selectively starts on my Aquaero 6 (MCP655) so I have it directly plugged into the PSU. From what I'm told it's running @ 60% so my question for that is on my loop would it be beneficial to run it faster (once I get it working ) or keep it where it's at, as far as cooling efficiency?

TH10
4x 480 RAD's (UT60's)
3 GPU's OC'd
CPU OC'd @ 4.5ghz atm @ 1.25v (still lowering as I go for tests but stable thus far)


----------



## smex

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> New Watercooling setup
> 
> Coolermaster Haf-XB
> EVGA GTX670
> AMD FX-8350
> Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0
> EK cpu and southbridge blocks (south bridge block used mainly for looks and routing)
> Swiftech MCW82 universal GPU block
> Swiftech radiators
> Aerocool Shark 120mm fans
> dual Swiftech MicroRes
> Mixed fittings
> Alphacool tubing
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1434_zps302e083b.jpg.html
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1435_zpsf1f4c980.jpg.html
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1436_zps83c843f5.jpg.html
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1437_zpseae8cbc0.jpg.html













looks very nice, good work.

Nice, i just dont like the grey of the dust catchers in front of the fans :/


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Pretty nice job in a case not designed for liquid cooling. I know how that is...


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks very nice, good work.
> 
> Nice, i just dont like the grey of the dust catchers in front of the fans :/


It's not nearly as noticeable in reality. Not sure if it's just the angle or something. Here's the filter. It's mostly just a little extra green eye candy in the case.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/391638/FilterRight_120mm_Green_UV_Reactive_Aluminum_Fan_Filter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Pretty nice job in a case not designed for liquid cooling. I know how that is...


Thanks, if I'd known from the beginning that I was going to expand beyond my single Corsair H80 cooler I'd have started with a different case.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Thanks, if I'd known from the beginning that I was going to expand beyond my single Corsair H80 cooler I'd have started with a different case.


Yep&#8230;I'm dealing with a similar thing. Returned from mini-itx for expandability and did not want to drop a lot on another case right now so ended up with a low end Corsair 200R as only $30 AR. Could not resist lol (and overall very happy with it for that price). But then I ended up with my first GPU with a block and needed a whole loop upgrade (overdue anyway). It's working out pretty well though as I said earlier even though I can only fit three single fan rads haha.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That.........pron........

will go very nice with my Bitspower Impact block......


----------



## kcuestag

Please tell me that's an R9 290(X) block!


----------



## iamkraine

I am running a swiftech mcp35x. I leak tested my rig for about 5 hours, no problems. Once I hooked everything up to the mobo, the pc turns on but the pump wont start. What could be the problem?

I am using the same molex cable to power the pump as I did during the leak test. The only difference is that now instead of jumping the 24pin I have it and all the other cables connected to the mobo. In the bios it also says Fan Error and its picking that up from the PWM 4 pin that I have connected to the mobo.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Sweet Bundy has probably updated the gallery at XS...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I am running a swiftech mcp35x. I leak tested my rig for about 5 hours, no problems. Once I hooked everything up to the mobo, the pc turns on but the pump wont start. What could be the problem?
> 
> I am using the same molex cable to power the pump as I did during the leak test. The only difference is that now instead of jumping the 24pin I have it and all the other cables connected to the mobo. In the bios it also says Fan Error and its picking that up from the PWM 4 pin that I have connected to the mobo.


Check the pump for leaks. Remove the PWM pin,does it fire up then?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I am running a swiftech mcp35x. I leak tested my rig for about 5 hours, no problems. Once I hooked everything up to the mobo, the pc turns on but the pump wont start. What could be the problem?
> 
> I am using the same molex cable to power the pump as I did during the leak test. The only difference is that now instead of jumping the 24pin I have it and all the other cables connected to the mobo. In the bios it also says Fan Error and its picking that up from the PWM 4 pin that I have connected to the mobo.


You have to set up the PWM function in the BIOS. I had to play around with mine to get it running.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I am running a swiftech mcp35x. I leak tested my rig for about 5 hours, no problems. Once I hooked everything up to the mobo, the pc turns on but the pump wont start. What could be the problem?
> 
> I am using the same molex cable to power the pump as I did during the leak test. The only difference is that now instead of jumping the 24pin I have it and all the other cables connected to the mobo. In the bios it also says Fan Error and its picking that up from the PWM 4 pin that I have connected to the mobo.


That's strange. Have you checked to make sure that your Molex connector didn't come loose during the installation of the connections? This is the most common reason for the pump to not operate. Also make sure that your reservoir is still full and providing coolant to the pump.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's strange. Have you checked to make sure that your Molex connector didn't come loose during the installation of the connections? This is the most common reason for the pump to not operate. Also make sure that your reservoir is still full and providing coolant to the pump.


Yes I checked and then used 2 other molex connectors thinking it might be the wiring, same result tho. And the reservoir is still full.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> You have to set up the PWM function in the BIOS. I had to play around with mine to get it running.


The pump doesnt run with or without the PWM connector and I dont have much time since the CPU isnt receiving any cooling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Check the pump for leaks. Remove the PWM pin,does it fire up then?


Like I said the pump went through 5 hours of leak testing and it was fine. After removing the PWM pin it still does not turn on.

What should I try?

I'm going to remove all the connectors and jump the 24 pin again to see if it turns on like it did during the leak test.
Any more input or ideas would be great. I have to figure this out.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Yes I checked and then used 2 other molex connectors thinking it might be the wiring, same result tho. And the reservoir is still full.
> The pump doesnt run with or without the PWM connector and I dont have much time since the CPU isnt receiving any cooling.
> Like I said the pump went through 5 hours of leak testing and it was fine. After removing the PWM pin it still does not turn on.
> 
> What should I try?
> 
> I'm going to remove all the connectors and jump the 24 pin again to see if it turns on like it did during the leak test.
> Any more input or ideas would be great. I have to figure this out.


If it still doesn't run when you connect it to your jumped power supply then please PM me so that I can help you get this pump replaced.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If it still doesn't run when you connect it to your jumped power supply then please PM me so that I can help you get this pump replaced.


Thank you very much but it did turn on although it took a couple more second than before. I guess I have to hook everything back up and and try again. Crossing my fingers.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Thank you very much but it did turn on although it took a couple more second than before. I guess I have to hook everything back up and and try again. Crossing my fingers.


Keep me posted.


----------



## wermad

New stuff


----------



## ccRicers

Hi Bram, mcp35x owner here. The pump is working great and nearly silent on idle.. on load it's like a faint howling wind which I assume is normal.

I have a question about the power plug. Would it be possible to snip the ends of the wires and replace the Molex with a 3-pin fan connector? I know I'll probably void the warranty doing so, but I want to keep things tidy so I'm using a 6-port fan power hub that is connected to a single custom PSU cable with only one Molex plug. And I'd like to connect the pump in the same hub as my (non-PWM) fans are.


----------



## derickwm

I approve wermad


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Hi Bram, mcp35x owner here. The pump is working great and nearly silent on idle.. on load it's like a faint howling wind which I assume is normal.
> 
> I have a question about the power plug. Would it be possible to snip the ends of the wires and replace the Molex with a 3-pin fan connector? I know I'll probably void the warranty doing so, but I want to keep things tidy so I'm using a 6-port fan power hub that is connected to a single custom PSU cable with only one Molex plug. And I'd like to connect the pump in the same hub as my (non-PWM) fans are.


I would think that this should work so long as your fan power hub is able to provide enough power to the pump. I can't give you any better indication on whether or not it will certainly work because we have no data on this being done before.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New stuff


Moar green?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Moar green?


Lol, i was waiting for this


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, i was waiting for this


That's only 15 fans though, where are the others??


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's only 15 fans though, where are the others??


Box 1 of 3 shown. Other 2 are in the background lol


----------



## wermad

Just that one box this time around









Picking up some stuff to slowly put that one together. Found out FedEx is gonna need sig on my new rads (damn it!)


----------



## morencyam

A small wermad build? Has hell finally frozen over?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Moar green?
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, i was waiting for this
Click to expand...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> A small wermad build? Has hell finally frozen over?


No sff build or the like. Think of it as big w/ less








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> A small wermad build? Has hell finally frozen over?
> 
> 
> 
> No sff build or the like. Think of it as big w/ less
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Aw Werm...the green needs to stop now.....


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aw Werm...the green needs to stop now.....


Uh oh!!! Is it invervention time ???


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aw Werm...the green needs to stop now.....
> 
> 
> 
> Uh oh!!! Is it invervention time ???
Click to expand...

I would but his next colour choice _could be worse_.......

Better the devil you know eh?


----------



## kpoeticg

Lolll. @wermad didn't you say before that you were getting rid of the green r4's for something white? How did you end up with the green Cougars?


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Please tell me that's an R9 290(X) block!


Bingo !


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Bingo !


Do they sell them already? They're pure sex, must have!


----------



## kpoeticg

They've been up at the Aquacomputer shop for a while now


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aw Werm...the green needs to stop now.....


Led's ftw







. They make your rig go faster








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Uh oh!!! Is it invervention time ???


White is going away. Green/black still on







. Shame the Assassin 3 x79 never launched







. I still like my lights


----------



## kpoeticg

Fair enough









I hope white going away doesn't refer to anything besides fans









I can't imagine how you could upgrade.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Keep me posted.


I seem to have gotten it to work although i'm not exactly sure what the problem was.

Now i'm trying to get it to be quiet because apparently at %60 in the ASUS ROG bios the pump runs full speed. I've gotten it to 2500 rpm by running it on silent mode through the bios but now its making a high pitched whining sound. Its extremely bothersome and not at all quiet. Is there anything I can do to lower the rpm even further or stop it from whining?


----------



## Anoxy

What do you guys think is the best choice for my set-up? Going for silence here, so I'm assuming more rad space would the best choice.
Overclocked 3570k + (2x) 780s, overclocked and overvolted.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the more rad space generally means the lower you can run your fans. Not sure if you'll see much of an improvement over the 720 but it definitely won't hurt


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I seem to have gotten it to work although i'm not exactly sure what the problem was.
> 
> Now i'm trying to get it to be quiet because apparently at %60 in the ASUS ROG bios the pump runs full speed. I've gotten it to 2500 rpm by running it on silent mode through the bios but now its making a high pitched whining sound. Its extremely bothersome and not at all quiet. Is there anything I can do to lower the rpm even further or stop it from whining?


OK, I need to know what header on your motherboard that you're using. Keep in mind that even though you might be using a 4-pin header it might not actually be PWM capable. Using a PWM device like this with voltage regulation could be the cause of your issues. Let me know if this is the case.


----------



## note

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What do you guys think is the best choice for my set-up? Going for silence here, so I'm assuming more rad space would the best choice.
> Overclocked 3570k + (2x) 780s, overclocked and overvolted.


I would go for the 720mm total rad space. It looks much better, and I don't think the extra 120mm would make that much of a difference temp wise..


----------



## Anoxy

Do you guys think that having those two 240s instead of one 360 will increase flow restriction too much? I'll be using one MCP-655


----------



## kpoeticg

Rads have almost no restriction. Waterblocks are the most restrictive in a loop. I wouldn't factor rad restriction into the equation at all. Well there's a few that are, but not the Alphacools


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Do you guys think that having those two 240s instead of one 360 will increase flow restriction too much? I'll be using one MCP-655


With that pump it shouldn't make a difference.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I seem to have gotten it to work although i'm not exactly sure what the problem was.
> 
> Now i'm trying to get it to be quiet because apparently at %60 in the ASUS ROG bios the pump runs full speed. I've gotten it to 2500 rpm by running it on silent mode through the bios but now its making a high pitched whining sound. Its extremely bothersome and not at all quiet. Is there anything I can do to lower the rpm even further or stop it from whining?


That's pretty common for those pumps. My MCP35x2 is @ full speed when set to like 57%.

Make sure you are using the CPU header on your motherboard, it's likely the only true onboard PWM.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Fair enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope white going away doesn't refer to anything besides fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't imagine how you could upgrade.


New challenge and less complexity this time.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Rads have almost no restriction. Waterblocks are the most restrictive in a loop. I wouldn't factor rad restriction into the equation at all. Well there's a few that are, but not the Alphacools


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With that pump it shouldn't make a difference.


Ok great, thank you.
I think I'll go for the 240s because I like when a case is fully packed with rads, and I haven't seen anybody with a configuration like this yet so I guess that makes me.....UNIQUE!







lol


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, i just noticed it in your sig. Have you decided on a case yet? And new log?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Need the pro's to give their advice,current setup EX 360 top intake,EX 240 bottom intake and rear 1x140 fan exhaust....If i added another 240 rad to the front for intake,will it still be ok to just have the 1x140 exhausting air or flip the top 360 to exhaust and the rear 140 fan to intake....?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Hi Bram, mcp35x owner here. The pump is working great and nearly silent on idle.. on load it's like a faint howling wind which I assume is normal.
> 
> I have a question about the power plug. Would it be possible to snip the ends of the wires and replace the Molex with a 3-pin fan connector? I know I'll probably void the warranty doing so, but I want to keep things tidy so I'm using a 6-port fan power hub that is connected to a single custom PSU cable with only one Molex plug. And I'd like to connect the pump in the same hub as my (non-PWM) fans are.


Why not make an adapter by modding one of those molex-to-fan header adapters? Shouldn't be too hard, and that way you don't mess with the warranty (and can easily go back if it doesn't work).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Damn, i just noticed it in your sig. Have you decided on a case yet? And new log?


Going to finish this be one first before posting any build log.


----------



## strong island 1

frozen cpu sent me the replacement rad in like 2 days after I recieved it damaged. it's perfect. They were really great and basically over nighted me a new one before even taking back the damaged one.

I love the way ti looks. I got it installed on the flex bay rad mount. I also got my mobo blocks installed.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need the pro's to give their advice,current setup EX 360 top intake,EX 240 bottom intake and rear 1x140 fan exhaust....If i added another 240 rad to the front for intake,will it still be ok to just have the 1x140 exhausting air or flip the top 360 to exhaust and the rear 140 fan to intake....?


Not a pro, but really depends how much mesh you have in your chassis. 840 is a little too much intake for 140 exhaust IMO. Mesh can work wonders for that, buy maybe flip the fans on a 240


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Hi Bram, mcp35x owner here. The pump is working great and nearly silent on idle.. on load it's like a faint howling wind which I assume is normal.
> 
> I have a question about the power plug. Would it be possible to snip the ends of the wires and replace the Molex with a 3-pin fan connector? I know I'll probably void the warranty doing so, but I want to keep things tidy so I'm using a 6-port fan power hub that is connected to a single custom PSU cable with only one Molex plug. And I'd like to connect the pump in the same hub as my (non-PWM) fans are.


You'll have to look at the amperage of the two. See what amperage your motherboard can handle and also check the pump. I think D5 pumps are 2 amps so your mobo's fan controller will need more than that to be able to work. I don't know what the ampage of DDC/DPC pumps are though but probably less.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> frozen cpu sent me the replacement rad in like 2 days after I recieved it damaged. it's perfect. They were really great and basically over nighted me a new one before even taking back the damaged one.
> 
> I love the way ti looks. I got it installed on the flex bay rad mount. I also got my mobo blocks installed.
> 
> [I
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> MG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1862051/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lucid Dreams have 780 Classy going cheap,im seriously tempted........


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lucid Dreams have 780 Classy going cheap,im seriously tempted........


They really are such amazing cards. as much voltage as you could ever need underwater and a beastly pcb to back it up. You wont be disappointed.


----------



## VSG

PPC has the Monsoon hardline tubing in stock, if anyone is interested.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah you probably spent thousands there and all but FCPU cross-shipping _and_ overnighting is pretty sweet customer service.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Not a pro, but really depends how much mesh you have in your chassis. 840 is a little too much intake for 140 exhaust IMO. Mesh can work wonders for that, buy maybe flip the fans on a 240


Are you suggesting running one of the 240's as exhaust and if so which would be the better choice....?

Also i would be running the fans no higher that say 1250-1400 rpms,and i more likely will get rid of the corsair 140mm and use one of my NB PK3 for the exhaust....


----------



## kpoeticg

Still, if you have way more intake than exhaust, without the mesh balance it out, your intake fans won't be able to push air through your rads.

Generally having the airflow moving in one direction across your chassis as much as possible gives the best cooling to components that aren't under water. So choose your exhaust by that logic. I'd definitely balance out the exhaust and intake a little more though. It's generally best to have rads as intake, but it's not always possible with alot of radspace. One of your 240's exhausting should balance it out


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Do you guys think that having those two 240s instead of one 360 will increase flow restriction too much? I'll be using one MCP-655


I have an Alphacool 360 Monsta, Alphacool ST30 240mm, XSPC Raystorm Intel CPU block, and XSPC GTX 760 blocks (x2) all with one MCP655 pump. I have excellent flow sir.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah you probably spent thousands there and all but FCPU cross-shipping _and_ overnighting is pretty sweet customer service.


hehe, live within a two state radius of florida & you get PPC overnight for 10$!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Still, if you have way more intake than exhaust, without the mesh balance it out, your intake fans won't be able to push air through your rads.
> Generally having the airflow moving in one direction across your chassis as much as possible gives the best cooling to components that aren't under water. So choose your exhaust by that logic. I'd definitely balance out the exhaust and intake a little more though. It's generally best to have rads as intake, but it's not always possible with alot of radspace. One of your 240's exhausting should balance it out


How about front & bottom 240's intaking and top 360 exhausting.i would also use the rear 1x140 fan as an intake....


----------



## kpoeticg

Like i said, it's kind of a balancing act between the fact that you'll have better temps with all rads as intake and the fact that you need to have some airflow to be able to push air through your rads. It depends how much mesh you have in your chassis, but i'd suggest just using a 240 for exhaust so your 360 and other 240 will still have fresh air


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> How about front & bottom 240's intaking and top 360 exhausting.i would also use the rear 1x140 fan as an intake....


I'd go with kpoeticg's advice to just balance things out as good as you can. If you're trying to go for positive or negative pressure then lean toward one or the other with 120-240mm more to the one you want.

Positive negative = more intake than exaust
Negative pressure = more exhaust than intake

I think this is right? I'm totally having a brain fart right now. lol


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Still, if you have way more intake than exhaust, *without the mesh balance it out*, your intake fans won't be able to push air through your rads.
> Generally having the airflow moving in one direction across your chassis as much as possible gives the best cooling to components that aren't under water. So choose your exhaust by that logic. I'd definitely balance out the exhaust and intake a little more though. It's generally best to have rads as intake, but it's not always possible with alot of radspace. One of your 240's exhausting should balance it out


So in a case like the SM8 which has tons of mesh for exhaust, do you think it would be fine to have all rads as intake?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New stuff


newegg 40% off coupon?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> newegg 40% off coupon?












Before they put the five limit







. Saved ~$120, which brought the price down to ~$12 each


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'd go with kpoeticg's advice to just balance things out as good as you can. If you're trying to go for positive or negative pressure then lean toward one or the other with 120-240mm more to the one you want.
> 
> Positive negative = more intake than exaust
> Negative pressure = more exhaust than intake
> 
> I think this is right? I'm totally having a brain fart right now. lol


You're right about the positive vs negative. Air will find its way in and out through mesh. So if if you have negative pressure, dust is gonna get sucked in through the mesh. If you can't have equal, it's best to have it leaning towards positive pressure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So in a case like the SM8 which has tons of mesh for exhaust, do you think it would be fine to have all rads as intake?


I don't know exactly how much mesh is in it, but it would take alot to balance out 840:140. I'd still recommend a little more exhaust


----------



## BradleyW




----------



## djriful

Mmhhh guys, I need some suggestions here. I am trying to optimize the air flow here.

*Setup 01*

The top 240mm rad in Setup 01 is currently sucking warm air from the 200mm rad at the front due to the intake and exhaust direction.



*Setup 02*

What if I put it this way both intake but the ambient temp inside the computer gets even hotter.



*Setup 03*

What if I let the back fan intake fresh air but I wonder where will the warm air from 200mm front will go.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Mmhhh guys, I need some suggestions here. I am trying to optimize the air flow here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Setup 01*
> The top 240mm rad in Setup 01 is currently sucking warm air from the 200mm rad at the front due to the intake and exhaust direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Setup 02*
> What if I put it this way both intake but the ambient temp inside the computer gets even hotter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Setup 03*
> What if I let the back fan intake fresh air but I wonder where will the warm air from 200mm front will go.


# 2,that's how i have my setup currently....(Both rads intaking) Top and bottom rads intake and using only the rear as exhaust....


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before they put the five limit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Saved ~$120, which brought the price down to ~$12 each


lol I didn't save as much since I only bought 8. Still an awesome deal. Mine get here tomorrow cant wait. Low rpms have me hoping they perform out the wazoo.

I bet someone at newegg was like , "what! why are all these big cougar fan orders coming in?" lol


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> # 2,that's how i have my setup currently....(Both rads intaking) Top and bottom rads intake and using only the rear as exhaust....


+1 works great for me as well.


----------



## djriful

@Jamaican Reaper , thanks! Now I am thinking if I should set those fans at pull configuration or push. If the push is better... I need to push down my rad and might even need to cut some tubes.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> @Jamaican Reaper
> , thanks! Now I am thinking if I should set those fans at pull configuration or push. If the push is better... I need to push down my rad and might even need to cut some tubes.


Your front fan is in push from what i can see,and the top rad shouldn't be a problem running in push,its the 600t so if they are in pull (exhaust) just flip them one at a time to push (intake) and you will be fine....How are your temps by the way....?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hehe, live within a two state radius of florida & you get PPC overnight for 10$!


I tried that. It cost me $20 via Fedex, but the problem is that "Standard Overnight" does not deliver on Saturdays! But regular FedEx does. I was pissed. I wasted $12, I usually get USPS cheapest option and it comes in 2 days so I just stick with that now.

On the topic of fan orientation. I have the front 240mm as intake and the top and rear 120mm's as exhaust. 32C water temp with 24C ambient while folding. SP120's all the way around at ~1750RPM push. I can live with that.

This might be my last week with the Fractal Arc Midi R2. Moving on to something else, I'm thinking custom test bench. When I start cuttin' I'll post a link to my log.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> @Jamaican Reaper
> , thanks! Now I am thinking if I should set those fans at pull configuration or push. If the push is better... I need to push down my rad and might even need to cut some tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> Your front fan is in push from what i can see,and the top rad shouldn't be a problem running in push,its the 600t so if they are in pull (exhaust) just flip them one at a time to push (intake) and you will be fine....How are your temps by the way....?
Click to expand...



CPU temp is the one I concern the most, on Prime95 it hits up high 80-85'c for a few min and back down to ~71'c ish. Which is why I am asking for advices because the top rad was feeding warm air from the front intake but i worry if the internal rig would be cramped with hot air.

Sidenote, maybe I can leave my rig side panel opened.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Mmhhh guys, I need some suggestions here. I am trying to optimize the air flow here.
> 
> *Setup 01*
> The top 240mm rad in Setup 01 is currently sucking warm air from the 200mm rad at the front due to the intake and exhaust direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Setup 02*
> What if I put it this way both intake but the ambient temp inside the computer gets even hotter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Setup 03*
> What if I let the back fan intake fresh air but I wonder where will the warm air from 200mm front will go.


I had setup 3 a few weeks ago, but it seems like my setup was more negative airflow than equal. It was collecting dust like no other.

Redid my loop a few days ago, now running setup 2. Top rad. front and bottom rad - all intake and 1 exhaust. It seems like it has less dust compared to my previous setup. As well, the 900D has lots of mesh in the back so exhausting air isn't a problem (even if there isn't a very active exhaust system).

I'll give another week or so and compare my setup.

EDIT: Sorry, quoted wrong setup


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU temp is the one I concern the most, on Prime95 it hits up high 80-85'c for a few min and back down to ~71'c ish. Which is why I am asking for advices because the top rad was feeding warm air from the front intake but i worry if the internal rig would be cramped with hot air.
> 
> Sidenote, maybe I can leave my rig side panel opened.


When i had my 600t i had an extra fan mounted in the 5.25 bay for extra intake,whats the temps when gaming....? I suggest you use a monitor program like speccy to check your mobo temps if or when you have both rads intaking air....


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU temp is the one I concern the most, on Prime95 it hits up high 80-85'c for a few min and back down to ~71'c ish. Which is why I am asking for advices because the top rad was feeding warm air from the front intake but i worry if the internal rig would be cramped with hot air.
> 
> Sidenote, maybe I can leave my rig side panel opened.
> 
> 
> 
> When i had my 600t i had an extra fan mounted in the 5.25 bay for extra intake,whats the temps when gaming....? I suggest you use a monitor program like speccy to check your mobo temps if or when you have both rads intaking air....
Click to expand...

I am still in Setup 01 right now and I have 5 sensors inside my rig, during gaming it goes up around 39'c and 41'c for stress run. Which is why my current setup 01 is not optimal i think, it is feeding all those 39'c+ temp into my top rad. I never knew that the 200mm rad can release so much heats. xD


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> lol I didn't save as much since I only bought 8. Still an awesome deal. Mine get here tomorrow cant wait. Low rpms have me hoping they perform out the wazoo.
> 
> I bet someone at newegg was like , "what! why are all these big cougar fan orders coming in?" lol


Yup, got my order the night the discount kicked in. Went w/ green, my theme color for these last few builds







. I'm setting them up on a p/p config on three rads.


----------



## morencyam

Those are some mighty fine looking fans. If I didn't already have orange painted typhoons and orange LED modded R4's I'd be all over the orange cougars with the red LEDs and change the LEDs with orange ones.


----------



## wermad

I don't have space to run the UT60s w/ adapters and R4s so I went w/ the cougars. Waiting on the R4s to sell to recoup all my cost and then some. I was waiting for the Hyperborea's but these are very nice and it was hard to pass them up at the discounted price. Newegg still has the discount active, fyi


----------



## morencyam

Yeah I know. I had a bunch sitting in the cart with the mouse hovering over the order button but had to hold back. I need the funds for other things to actually finish the build once and for all. I still need to find a sheet of glass for the desk top but everything I'm finding is expensive since I need a sheet that's 5' x 2.5'. I'm thinking about just making the top a sheet of wood with a large window in the center. That would make hiding the cables a lot easier too


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yeah I know. I had a bunch sitting in the cart with the mouse hovering over the order button but had to hold back. I need the funds for other things to actually finish the build once and for all. I still need to find a sheet of glass for the desk top but everything I'm finding is expensive since I need a sheet that's 5' x 2.5'. I'm thinking about just making the top a sheet of wood with a large window in the center. That would make hiding the cables a lot easier too


How about a nice piece of plexi for a window? avoids having glass at all. I hear yah about a full piece of glass. Then you're forcing yourself to go very neurotic on every single detail as you will be able to see it.


----------



## morencyam

I'm just worried about it getting scratched or something since it will actually be the top surface of my desk with all the hardware horizontally beneath


----------



## wermad

a bit of slip free stick felt will help avoid scratches. But I like glass as it gives it a nice and special touch to the build.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hehe, live within a two state radius of florida & you get PPC overnight for 10$!


Where I live 3-day shipping options typically take 5 business days, not just from PPC but when ordering from any company delivered by just about any carrier - actually USPS Priority mail almost always winds up being 3 days M-S, which is usually one or two days faster than UPS 3 Day Select or Fedex 3 Day Ground options.

My main beef with PPC is how horribly slow they are to process and ship my orders in the first place. I almost always place orders early Friday mornings 5-8 AM and by doing that I hope that my order will ship out sometime later that day. But the last two times I ordered from PPC they didn't ship my order until Monday, and this last time (~2 weeks ago) they didn't do so until so late in the day that FedEx didn't actually pick up the order from them until Tuesday, and it didn't get delivered until the following Monday - That was 9 days after I placed my order with them using the FedEx (Ground Home Delivery (3 days) delivery option. That makes twice in a row PPC has taken longer than any other e'tailer I've ever ordered from besides Amazon's Free Super-Saver shipping option which is also similarly as slow. I probably should have just used one of the USPS shipping options from PPCs but they are the only place that makes me purchase delivery insurance at an additional cost when doing that.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Need the pro's to give their advice,current setup EX 360 top intake,EX 240 bottom intake and rear 1x140 fan exhaust....If i added another 240 rad to the front for intake,will it still be ok to just have the 1x140 exhausting air or flip the top 360 to exhaust and the rear 140 fan to intake....?


After you changed from exhaust to intake on top rad, how much reduction in temps you get on both CPU & GPU's when gaming?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU temp is the one I concern the most, on Prime95 it hits up high 80-85'c for a few min and back down to ~71'c ish. Which is why I am asking for advices because the top rad was feeding warm air from the front intake but i worry if the internal rig would be cramped with hot air.
> 
> Sidenote, maybe I can leave my rig side panel opened.


You should try it. The ambient inside the case will go up a little but it should be ok.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Where I live 3-day shipping options typically take 5 business days, not just from PPC but when ordering from any company delivered by just about any carrier - actually USPS Priority mail almost always winds up being 3 days M-S, which is usually one or two days faster than UPS 3 Day Select or Fedex 3 Day Ground options.
> 
> My main beef with PPC is how horribly slow they are to process and ship my orders in the first place. I almost always place orders early Friday mornings 5-8 AM and by doing that I hope that my order will ship out sometime later that day. But the last two times I ordered from PPC they didn't ship my order until Monday, and this last time (~2 weeks ago) they didn't do so until so late in the day that FedEx didn't actually pick up the order from them until Tuesday, and it didn't get delivered until the following Monday - That was 9 days after I placed my order with them using the FedEx (Ground Home Delivery (3 days) delivery option. That makes twice in a row PPC has taken longer than any other e'tailer I've ever ordered from besides Amazon's Free Super-Saver shipping option which is also similarly as slow. I probably should have just used one of the USPS shipping options from PPCs but they are the only place that makes me purchase delivery insurance at an additional cost when doing that.


Wow, that sucks. I placed my order this last Friday (3 days ago) at 12:30pm local time (3:30pm their time) and in less than an hour and a half it was packed and shipped, and that wasn't a small order, there was 6 radiators, about 30 fittings and other stuff, totaling $900+, I guess I'm lucky with both them and FCPU, every order I've placed with both over the last 2 years has gone out the day I ordered it, unless I asked it to be held due to back ordered items.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> a bit of slip free stick felt will help avoid scratches. But I like glass as it gives it a nice and special touch to the build.


That was my main thought process too. Acrylic would be cheaper and easier, but glass would give it that more professional finished product look and feel. I have a glass shop right around the corner from my house so I might swing by there and see if they have any scrap pieces that would work


----------



## stickg1

Yeah man PPCs always gets me packed and shipped the same day I order. They have sent me the wrong stuff twice though. But they put the correct items out immediately and let me keep the wrong items. Nothing expensive. Tubing one time and coolant another.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah man PPCs always gets me packed and shipped the same day I order. They have sent me the wrong stuff twice though. But they put the correct items out immediately and let me keep the wrong items. Nothing expensive. Tubing one time and coolant another.


Dang, that just reminded me, I forgot more coolant.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> After you changed from exhaust to intake on top rad, how much reduction in temps you get on both CPU & GPU's when gaming?
> .


I saw about 4-6c in temps difference,but bare in mind i also drained my loop because i was hitting 55c on the really warmer days here with fans at full speed (i could have had air pockets causing these higher temps),and now with the same game (metro last light) my temps wont go over 50c (depending on ambient and fans rpm)....Today while playing metro i saw my cards hit 53c-cpu 64c with my 240 rads at 1210 rpm and the 360 (well hard to tell because i have 3 fans on one channel so the rpm is ****y,jumping up and down between 600-1570 rpms/ambient was 27c....Not sure about the cpu because i havnt seen it hit over 65c when gaming so i dnt really monitor it at all....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah man PPCs always gets me packed and shipped the same day I order. They have sent me the wrong stuff twice though. But they put the correct items out immediately and let me keep the wrong items. Nothing expensive. Tubing one time and coolant another.


That's weird. That's definitely not been my experience with them. Searching 'Performance PCs' in my emails turns up I've had 7 orders from them in 2013 / 2014, six placed on Fridays and once on a Sat. All of the Friday orders were placed before 9AM EST, and twice my order was actually shipped that same Friday. The other 4 Friday orders all went out their door on Monday at the earliest. I do always get an email from them that same Friday that says my order has been "Pulled" "Checked" & "Packed" and the status of my order updated to "Shipped" but despite them saying that the order doesn't usually show up on FedEx tracking as being picked up from them until Monday, and on the last occasion they didn't pull check or pack my Friday order until Monday and Fedex didn't pick it up until Tues.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's weird. That's definitely not been my experience with them. Searching 'Performance PCs' in my emails turns up I've had 7 orders from them in 2013 / 2014, six placed on Fridays and once on a Sat. All of the Friday orders were placed before 9AM EST, and twice my order was actually shipped that same Friday. The other 4 Friday orders all went out their door on Monday at the earliest. I do always get an email from them that same Friday that says my order has been "Pulled" "Checked" & "Packed" and the status of my order updated to "Shipped" but despite them saying that the order doesn't usually show up on FedEx tracking as being picked up from them until Monday, and on the last occasion they didn't pull check or pack my Friday order until Monday and Fedex didn't pick it up until Tues.


Man that sucks!

Which reminds me...

I need more money so I can more stuffs! I think I'm due for a raise. Another $150 a week would do wonders for my WC habit.


----------



## sinnedone

Any MCP35x owners out there? looking for input.

I'm looking at the MCP35x for its size and pwm. The loop will consist of 2 280 radiators, (possibly a 140 as well if I can fit it) cpu, 2 gpu's in parallel, lots of 90's with hard tubing. Pump would have airflow as it would be right above an intake fan. It will definitely be isolated either by rubber or foam material.

Any issues with this as far as one single MCP35x pump goes?


----------



## djriful

All RAD fans are intake now, the internal ambient temp is high but the overall cooling on component took very long time to hit 80'c. I say about -5'c less hotter on the CPU also now it is way more quieter too!

One reason because those 2 fans from the top rad are blowing onto the motherboard which cool everything especially the X79 mobo.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Any MCP35x owners out there? looking for input.
> 
> I'm looking at the MCP35x for its size and pwm. The loop will consist of 2 280 radiators, (possibly a 140 as well if I can fit it) cpu, 2 gpu's in parallel, lots of 90's with hard tubing. Pump would have airflow as it would be right above an intake fan. It will definitely be isolated either by rubber or foam material.
> 
> Any issues with this as far as one single MCP35x pump goes?


35x will easily handle that loop...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Any MCP35x owners out there? looking for input.
> 
> I'm looking at the MCP35x for its size and pwm. The loop will consist of 2 280 radiators, (possibly a 140 as well if I can fit it) cpu, 2 gpu's in parallel, lots of 90's with hard tubing. Pump would have airflow as it would be right above an intake fan. It will definitely be isolated either by rubber or foam material.
> 
> Any issues with this as far as one single MCP35x pump goes?


Sounds good to me. In case you need more power from the pump and it gets hot, just grab the heatsink- not too expensive and well worth the price.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Any MCP35x owners out there? looking for input.
> 
> I'm looking at the MCP35x for its size and pwm. The loop will consist of 2 280 radiators, (possibly a 140 as well if I can fit it) cpu, 2 gpu's in parallel, lots of 90's with hard tubing. Pump would have airflow as it would be right above an intake fan. It will definitely be isolated either by rubber or foam material.
> 
> Any issues with this as far as one single MCP35x pump goes?


I've ran one through much more complex loops


----------



## djriful

My D5 is at speed 3 ~3400RPM. When I set to Speed 5 ~4700-5000RPM, the temp didn't really improve much. Does it has anything to do with like the amount of time when the liquid pass the radiator get cooler than bypassing it really fast that the liquid didn't really get enough time to transfer the heat onto the radiator fins?

Odd question...


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> All RAD fans are intake now, the internal ambient temp is high but the overall cooling on component took very long time to hit 80'c. I say about -5'c less hotter on the CPU also now it is way more quieter too!
> 
> One reason because those 2 fans from the top rad are blowing onto the motherboard which cool everything especially the X79 mobo.


Good to know you are seeing better temps like i did....Just curious,how much voltage are you running thru that 3930k and what fans do you have on the top rad....?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Man that sucks!
> 
> Which reminds me...
> 
> I need more money so I can more stuffs! I think I'm due for a raise. Another $150 a week would do wonders for my WC habit.


lol you will need an intervention to get off your addiction at this rate now.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> All RAD fans are intake now, the internal ambient temp is high but the overall cooling on component took very long time to hit 80'c. I say about -5'c less hotter on the CPU also now it is way more quieter too!
> 
> One reason because those 2 fans from the top rad are blowing onto the motherboard which cool everything especially the X79 mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know you are seeing better temps like i did....Just curious,how much voltage are you running thru that 3930k and what fans do you have on the top rad....?
Click to expand...

Voltage is around 1.440v - 1.456v @ 4.8Ghz and the fan I use at the top is 2x GT AP-15 1850RPM and the 200mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro Red LED.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol you will need an intervention to get off your addiction at this rate now.


Exactly,he doesn't give himself enough time to enjoy is build/rebuilds....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Voltage is around 1.440v - 1.456v @ 4.8Ghz and the fan I use at the top is 2x GT AP-15 1850RPM and the 200mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro Red LED.


Well the only way you may see a temp drop is by dropping the volts and that beast of a cpu OR get more rads....You could always mod the top and use an Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm....


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Voltage is around 1.440v - 1.456v @ 4.8Ghz and the fan I use at the top is 2x GT AP-15 1850RPM and the 200mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro Red LED.
> 
> 
> 
> Well the only way you may see a temp drop is by dropping the volts and that beast of a cpu OR get more rads....You could always mod the top and use an Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm....
Click to expand...

On regular daily use and gaming my temp is perfectly fine, those 80'c temp only if I use prime95 or any other applications that drives my 6 cores at 100% load.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I saw about 4-6c in temps difference,but bare in mind i also drained my loop because i was hitting 55c on the really warmer days here with fans at full speed (i could have had air pockets causing these higher temps),and now with the same game (metro last light) my temps wont go over 50c (depending on ambient and fans rpm)....Today while playing metro i saw my cards hit 53c-cpu 64c with my 240 rads at 1210 rpm and the 360 (well hard to tell because i have 3 fans on one channel so the rpm is ****y,jumping up and down between 600-1570 rpms/ambient was 27c....Not sure about the cpu because i havnt seen it hit over 65c when gaming so i dnt really monitor it at all....


A couple of 290's overclocked & combined with overclocked CPU really add a lot of heat. When playing BF4 last night, I feel the coolant is running hotter than usual. I really need to get myself water temp probe, preferably with display. I can connect it to the ball valve I have in the loop.

Just now I flipped the fans on top radiator to intake. I already can see improvement in CPU temp. I'll see how much improvement I get when playing games later.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Voltage is around 1.440v - 1.456v @ 4.8Ghz and the fan I use at the top is 2x GT AP-15 1850RPM and the 200mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro Red LED.


Wow... 1.45 @ 4.8 Ghz?

Definitely drop the voltage down. Im running 4.7 Ghz and my VCore pegs at 1.40 using Prime 95 and Intelburn.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> A couple of 290's overclocked & combined with overclocked CPU really add a lot of heat. When playing BF4 last night, I feel the coolant is running hotter than usual. I really need to get myself water temp probe, preferably with display. I can connect it to the ball valve I have in the loop.
> 
> Just now I flipped the fans on top radiator to intake. I already can see improvement in CPU temp. I'll see how much improvement I get when playing games later.


Let me know if your gpu temps improved also,another thing you could do is run push/pull on your rads (10-30% improvement) if you havn't already....I still need to grab a xspc temp sensor from pccg,just need to add other stuff to it to make the shipping cost worth the buy....


----------



## Pimphare

I'm stumped guys. I finally got my system up and running, but not without issues.







The main issue I'm having right now is the difference in my gpu temps. I just ran Valley Benchmark and the bottom gpu stayed at a constant 40 C degrees hotter than the top card. Not sure what the heck is up with that. I have both of the same blocks, tim, and thermal pads installed on them.

Maybe I didn't get the bottom card and block seated properly?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'm stumped guys. I finally got my system up and running, but not without issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main issue I'm having right now is the difference in my gpu temps. I just ran Valley Benchmark and the bottom gpu stayed at a constant 40 C degrees hotter than the top card. Not sure what the heck is up with that. I have both of the same blocks, tim, and thermal pads installed on them.
> 
> Maybe I didn't get the bottom card and block seated properly?


Time to remount that block,that happened to be when i first watercooled my cards but the difference was just 9c....


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Voltage is around 1.440v - 1.456v @ 4.8Ghz and the fan I use at the top is 2x GT AP-15 1850RPM and the 200mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro Red LED.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow... 1.45 @ 4.8 Ghz?
> 
> Definitely drop the voltage down. Im running 4.7 Ghz and my VCore pegs at 1.40 using Prime 95 and Intelburn.
Click to expand...

Now 1.410v - 1.424v @ 4.802Ghz


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Time to remount that block,that happened to be when i first watercooled my cards but the difference was just 9c....


I was afraid someone would say that. lol I'd rather it be something as simple as that though. Everything else seems to be nice and cool. I'm completely satisfied with my first custom water loop. I'm ready to do some stress testing to see how well the temps hold up. It's a bit late to tear down the loop tonight. Thanks for the help man!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I was afraid someone would say that. lol I'd rather it be something as simple as that though. Everything else seems to be nice and cool. I'm completely satisfied with my first custom water loop. I'm ready to do some stress testing to see how well the temps hold up. It's a bit late to tear down the loop tonight. Thanks for the help man!


I know how you feel,this rig is my first watercooled loop and when i had to redo one block i wasnt happy at all,but i just turned it off and went right back to fixing the issue....Honestly i could not have slept or do anything until i fixed it,I was too close and that block was gonna stop me from enjoying it....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'm stumped guys. I finally got my system up and running, but not without issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main issue I'm having right now is the difference in my gpu temps. I just ran Valley Benchmark and the bottom gpu stayed at a constant 40 C degrees hotter than the top card. Not sure what the heck is up with that. I have both of the same blocks, tim, and thermal pads installed on them.
> 
> Maybe I didn't get the bottom card and block seated properly?


Yo pimp, can u post a pic of your video card setup for us please, specifically how you have it tubed..... Thx

Edit: nevermind, I think I found a picture for your system in the 650D thread, I don't want to sound like I'm talking down, but you DID enable SLI, correct? Your positive that both cards are working during your test runs and not just one? I only ask, because I have done that before....


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'm stumped guys. I finally got my system up and running, but not without issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main issue I'm having right now is the difference in my gpu temps. I just ran Valley Benchmark and the bottom gpu stayed at a constant 40 C degrees hotter than the top card. Not sure what the heck is up with that. I have both of the same blocks, tim, and thermal pads installed on them.
> 
> Maybe I didn't get the bottom card and block seated properly?


Just keep in mind that Valley's on screen display on the upper right shows the secondary card first, then the primary. So if you're basing your temps on that, it's the top card that's running hotter. What temps are you seeing on your hot card?

If it's a 40C delta and you're up in the 80c range on the hot one, that's telling me you're simply not getting water flowing past that core..a bad mount with flow should at least make _some_ contact and you'd see lower deltas than 40c, and a bad mount with no flow would show higher than that. Could be you're just using the waterblock as a big passive heatsink at the moment.

If, however, your hot card is in the 40-60C temp range and the cool card is down in the 20c range, that's a different story, probably just means that bottom card isn't getting used in SLI.

I'm with Jim, I'd really like to see a picture of your GPU plumbing.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I saw about 4-6c in temps difference,but bare in mind i also drained my loop because i was hitting 55c on the really warmer days here with fans at full speed (i could have had air pockets causing these higher temps),and now with the same game (metro last light) my temps wont go over 50c (depending on ambient and fans rpm)....Today while playing metro i saw my cards hit 53c-cpu 64c with my 240 rads at 1210 rpm and the 360 (*well hard to tell because i have 3 fans on one channel so the rpm is ****y,jumping up and down between 600-1570 rpms*/ambient was 27c....Not sure about the cpu because i havnt seen it hit over 65c when gaming so i dnt really monitor it at all....


Hey Reaper - what type of fans have you got and how are they connected exactly ??
Fan rpm shouldn't be jumping around, well maybe expect 30-50 rpm maybe. BUT NOT nearly 1000.
Only one fan should have the speed signal connected to your controller _- EDIT - each channel on the fan controller_
Fan cable splitter extensions should only have one speed signal wire (yellow if 3 pin) connected coming from just one fan - otherwise the signal will get ballsed up which sounds like what you have going on.
Usually one on the cables/plugs is marked as _signal_, in case not all of the connector "tails/plugs) are used.
First custom fan cable I made the mistake of wiring every fan with 3 wires - and rpm jumping everywhere on controller reading as you have described.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hey Reaper - what type of fans have you got and how are they connected exactly ??
> Fan rpm shouldn't be jumping around, well maybe expect 30-50 rpm maybe. BUT NOT nearly 1000.
> Only one fan should have the speed signal connected to your controller _- EDIT - each channel on the fan controller_
> Fan cable extensions should only have one speed signal wire (yellow if 3 pin) connected coming from just one fan - otherwise the signal will get ballsed up which sounds like what you have going on.
> Usually one on the cables/plugs is marked as _signal_ in case not all of the connector "tails/plugs) are used.
> First custom fan cable I made the mistake of wiring every fan with 3 wires - and rpm jumping everywhere on controller reading as you have described.


This is the exact splitter i'm using....I'm running corsairs sp and have them connected to each of the 3pin ports which is connected to 1 channel on the controller....

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19140&cPath=1339


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> This is the exact splitter i'm using....I'm running corsairs sp and have them connected to each of the 3pin ports which is connected to 1 channel on the controller....
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19140&cPath=1339


Does only one of the plugs on the splitter cable have three pins then ?
leaviing 2 of them with just 2 pins ?
That would drive me crazy having the fan rpm bouncing all over the show.

EDIT - Image I found of your cable looks like a _daisy chain_ type cable, which I think is messing with your rpm signal.

EDIT 2 - PM sent

EDIT 3 - pix I just took of correct fan plugs for speed signal to work - just one plug with speed signal pin


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

All the headers are 3 pins,when I use a splitter for the fans they work perfectly (2 way splitter) until I get up to 3....it does tick me off,I'm on the verge of getting a better controller with more channels....what I don't understand is that it's rated at 30 watts per channel,but as soon as you use more than 2 it goes all weird....May just get a cheap bitfenix recon and run 2 fans per channel until I can find a lamptron FC5 V3 locally....


----------



## tecuarenta

For those debating about fan splitters, grab Nanoxia ones, great sleeving and heat shrinkage.


----------



## djriful

Fan splitters Dazmode has tons of choices here: https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/radiator-accesories/

Bottom page 1 and 2.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hey Reaper - what type of fans have you got and how are they connected exactly ??
> Fan rpm shouldn't be jumping around, well maybe expect 30-50 rpm maybe. BUT NOT nearly 1000.
> Only one fan should have the speed signal connected to your controller _- EDIT - each channel on the fan controller_
> *Fan cable extensions should only have one speed signal wire (yellow if 3 pin) connected coming from just one fan - otherwise the signal will get ballsed up which sounds like what you have going on.*
> Usually one on the cables/plugs is marked as _signal_ in case not all of the connector "tails/plugs) are used.
> *First custom fan cable I made the mistake of wiring every fan with 3 wires - and rpm jumping everywhere on controller reading as you have described.*


This and this.

I bought some cheap 2-way splitters that had the RPM signal wire on both plugs. When I plugged it into my Lamptron Fan Controller Touch RPM was jumping all over the place as well. I cut the RPM wire on one side since both fans I was using it with were the same and that solved the problem.

When I made my 4-way splitters for my radiators I only added the RPM wire to the first fan connector and the other three were just positive and negative and didn't have the RPM jumping around.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> 35x will easily handle that loop...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sounds good to me. In case you need more power from the pump and it gets hot, just grab the heatsink- not too expensive and well worth the price.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've ran one through much more complex loops


Thanks guys, repped









Going with the 35x pwm over the D5 pwm pump will definitely help me make everything fit. Might even be able to shove an extra 140mm rad in there.







I hope its as quiet as I hear though.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

I run the 35x2 and its not very noisy. I imagine one would be fairly quiet. As others have suggested just make sure you get the heatsink to go with it. Set your pwm curve up and you'll be good to go







.


----------



## audioholic

Its quiet if you use speedfan you control the header on your motherboard, or on a fan controller.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> They really are such amazing cards. as much voltage as you could ever need underwater and a beastly pcb to back it up. You wont be disappointed.


I am so kicking myself for not getting yours when I had the chance!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> A couple of 290's overclocked & combined with overclocked CPU really add a lot of heat. When playing BF4 last night, I feel the coolant is running hotter than usual. I really need to get myself water temp probe, preferably with display. I can connect it to the ball valve I have in the loop.
> 
> Just now I flipped the fans on top radiator to intake. I already can see improvement in CPU temp. I'll see how much improvement I get when playing games later.


Cheap at Jab-tech right now for the BP sensors and XPSC V2 displays. I have a silver still in packaging I don't need FYI. Just bought a matte black there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Just keep in mind that Valley's on screen display on the upper right shows the secondary card first, then the primary. So if you're basing your temps on that, it's the top card that's running hotter. What temps are you seeing on your hot card?


Yeah and always try more than one bench/app/game as a general best practice...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well thanks to tax returns looks like I'll be getting a EVGA GTX780ti SC but what water block would you guys recommend. I saw where FCPU sells them with an ekwb, but the pricing looks a bit too much (found a 780 open box for $610) and seeing there is a huge selection of blocks compared to the 7870 I'd be taking out








Also debating swapping out to a 4770k w/ new mobo from my fx6100 and current mobo (just got the current mobo for Christmas lol)


----------



## VSG

Save your money and get a regular reference 780Ti, you can overclock the card extremely easily yourself using Precision X. Any block for a reference 780Ti will work, but I am a sucker for EK stuff myself


----------



## johnnybra

Some poor quality pics of my unfinished rig. Soon i'll post the build log and decent pics.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Good to know, since there was almost a $200 difference between the sc and just ti, and yeah I love ekwb's stylings but also liking the looks on the heat killers lol, but in the end want functionality


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Question on PWM pumps, I'm still sorting out the issues with why my pump selectively starts on my Aquaero 6 (MCP655) so I have it directly plugged into the PSU. From what I'm told it's running @ 60% so my question for that is on my loop would it be beneficial to run it faster (once I get it working ) or keep it where it's at, as far as cooling efficiency?
> 
> TH10
> 4x 480 RAD's (UT60's)
> 3 GPU's OC'd
> CPU OC'd @ 4.5ghz atm @ 1.25v (still lowering as I go for tests but stable thus far)


Bumpin back from a few pages ago, just wanted to get some opinions/suggestions. Still unsure why the AQ sometimes starts and sometimes doesn't w/ the pump, unless there's a setting to initiate the pump and maintain power during initial POST.


----------



## kj1060

So I noticed something strange in my XSPC bay reservoir, there is this little grey flexible thing moving around near the window. I am concerned it might be algae. I am using distilled water and PT Nuke PHN with PrimoChill Advanced.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Bumpin back from a few pages ago, just wanted to get some opinions/suggestions. Still unsure why the AQ sometimes starts and sometimes doesn't w/ the pump, unless there's a setting to initiate the pump and maintain power during initial POST.


As for the Aquaero not sure. But it might be the pump is running at low rpm and you didn´t notice? If 60% is ok or not would depend on your flow and particular system. Usually I would say yes, should be enough to get it around 0.7 to 1.0 GPM but that is highly dependent or your components and loop. Are you running your GPUs in parallel or serial? Do you have a flow meter?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> So I noticed something strange in my XSPC bay reservoir, there is this little grey flexible thing moving around near the window. I am concerned it might be algae. I am using distilled water and PT Nuke PHN with PrimoChill Advanced.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










That or perhaps a flake of painting from somewhere in the system? With this picture is hard to tell.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Where I live 3-day shipping options typically take 5 business days, not just from PPC but when ordering from any company delivered by just about any carrier - actually USPS Priority mail almost always winds up being 3 days M-S, which is usually one or two days faster than UPS 3 Day Select or Fedex 3 Day Ground options.
> 
> My main beef with PPC is how horribly slow they are to process and ship my orders in the first place. I almost always place orders early Friday mornings 5-8 AM and by doing that I hope that my order will ship out sometime later that day. But the last two times I ordered from PPC they didn't ship my order until Monday, and this last time (~2 weeks ago) they didn't do so until so late in the day that FedEx didn't actually pick up the order from them until Tuesday, and it didn't get delivered until the following Monday - That was 9 days after I placed my order with them using the FedEx (Ground Home Delivery (3 days) delivery option. That makes twice in a row PPC has taken longer than any other e'tailer I've ever ordered from besides Amazon's Free Super-Saver shipping option which is also similarly as slow. I probably should have just used one of the USPS shipping options from PPCs but they are the only place that makes me purchase delivery insurance at an additional cost when doing that.


=( they always process same day for me. Placed an order at 7am yesterday, and it showed up today. 6$ shipping.

Its usually best to shop at both as they both charge more/less for certain items. It always takes 5days to receive a package from frozen unless I pay $25 or more for shipping but performance does not sell The tuning I use.


----------



## Ovrclck

Hey folks, I'm having trouble finding this exact Koolance SLI connector. Does anyone know the correct part number? Really appreciate it!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hey folks, I'm having trouble finding this exact Koolance SLI connector. Does anyone know the correct part number? Really appreciate it!


according to koolance only the black comes in that exact style.
http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=62_101_135

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_203_472
CNT-VDA34-BK
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_472&products_id=30754


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> according to koolance only the black comes in that exact style.
> http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=62_101_135
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_203_472
> CNT-VDA34-BK
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_472&products_id=30754


Darn. I appreciate it. Was digging the nickel plated.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> As for the Aquaero not sure. But it might be the pump is running at low rpm and you didn´t notice? If 60% is ok or not would depend on your flow and particular system. Usually I would say yes, should be enough to get it around 0.7 to 1.0 GPM but that is highly dependent or your components and loop. Are you running your GPUs in parallel or serial? Do you have a flow meter?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That or perhaps a flake of painting from somewhere in the system? With this picture is hard to tell.


No the pump just doesn't turn on half the time when on the AQ which almost lead to a melt down of my acrylic on my CPU recently which is why its on PSU power only atm.

GPU's are in Serial. I don't have a flow meter yet.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> No the pump just doesn't turn on half the time when on the AQ which almost lead to a melt down of my acrylic on my CPU recently which is why its on PSU power only atm.
> 
> GPU's are in Serial. I don't have a flow meter yet.


Why not use the cpu fan header of your motherboard just to control the PWM? That way you can use speedfan or whatever other software (asus Fan (in)xpert cough cough cough....







) to adjust the rpm of the pump. Use hwinfo64 to check all temps and rpm of the pump. Even without the flow meter if your temps are ok on all blocks (Vgas and CPU) I think you are good to go. Serial would be my choice too on your system since parallel in 4 gpus would be too much for one pump (not for the overall flow but for the within gpu blocks flow...).


----------



## Dortheleus

Quick question does a water block made for the r9 280 fit on a r9 270?

EKWB's waterblock for the 280


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quick question does a water block made for the r9 280 fit on a r9 270?
> 
> EKWB's waterblock for the 280


These are completely different PCB designs. That block is for the very uniquely designed 280 Matrix card that is nothing like the R9 270. This block will therefore not be in any way compatible with an R9 270.

It turns out that there is another issue. There really isn't a reference 280 PCB because the 280 is very similar to the 7970. Manufacturers can use the reference 7970 PCB for their R9 280 cards, but they don't have to. AMD didn't design a specific reference PCB for these cards and therefore as long as it uses the 7970 reference PCB a water block for a 7970 will work.

The R9 270 is a completely different card though and thus only if a manufacturer decides to use a reference 7970 PCB will the 7970 water block be compatible with it.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These are completely different PCB designs. That block is for the very uniquely designed 280 Matrix card that is nothing like the R9 270. This block will therefore not be in any way compatible with an R9 270.
> 
> It turns out that there is another issue. There really isn't a reference 280 PCB because the 280 is very similar to the 7970. Manufacturers can use the reference 7970 PCB for their R9 280 cards, but they don't have to. AMD didn't design a specific reference PCB for these cards and therefore as long as it uses the 7970 reference PCB a water block for a 7970 will work.
> 
> The R9 270 is a completely different card though and thus only if a manufacturer decides to use a reference 7970 PCB will the 7970 water block be compatible with it.


Well I'm looking to buy this R9 270X that has a 8" PCB and I don't know what it is reference from.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

For the first time in about 9 months,I decided to screw the side panel on.
If you saw the amount of screws that needed to be done...you would of left it off too....



And a rare view of the desk it sits on.....looming over me.....making me feel a little small.....Its doing it now........


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For the first time in about 9 months,I decided to screw the side panel on.
> If you saw the amount of screws that needed to be done...you would of left it off too....
> 
> 
> 
> And a rare view of the desk it sits on.....looming over me.....making me feel a little small.....Its doing it now........






Lol, I guess you have an unlimited stock of compressed air cans







Looks nice







I like inverted MB cases.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Well I'm looking to buy this R9 270X that has a 8" PCB and I don't know what it is reference from.


Unfortunately I don't have any information on what PCB that card uses.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For the first time in about 9 months,I decided to screw the side panel on.
> If you saw the amount of screws that needed to be done...you would of left it off too....
> 
> 
> 
> And a rare view of the desk it sits on.....looming over me.....making me feel a little small.....Its doing it now........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, I guess you have an unlimited stock of compressed air cans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like inverted MB cases.
Click to expand...

No,I just have a compressor,cans are for the weak....


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Well I'm looking to buy this R9 270X that has a 8" PCB and I don't know what it is reference from.


I did a quick check and there are no fullcover waterblocks for this videocard. Either get a universal VGA block or decide on a different card.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I did a quick check and there are no fullcover waterblocks for this videocard. Either get a universal VGA block or decide on a different card.


This looks to be the case. I can't seem to find any manufacturers for a fullcover block for these cards either.


----------



## Anoxy

I saw people discussing the Bitspower logos a few pages back....has anyone figured out a nice way to cover those up on black fittings? Black nail polish? Spray paint? Plasti-dip?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I saw people discussing the Bitspower logos a few pages back....has anyone figured out a nice way to cover those up on black fittings? Black nail polish? Spray paint? Plasti-dip?


They seem to be etched into the paint and into the fitting itself. Short of stripping them down, sanding smooth and repainting, I think there's no quick fix.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And a new white backdrop means more pics!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> They seem to be etched into the paint and into the fitting itself. Short of stripping them down, sanding smooth and repainting, I think there's no quick fix.


And that is more work than it is worth if you ask me......


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Full install of my modified EK blocks. Too bad I couldn't get any tight bends with the acrylic tubes to connect the mobo & CPU.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/IMAG1959.jpg.html


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And a new white backdrop means more pics!


That is really beautiful. The pedestal fits that case so nice. I usually think they look awkward but that looks awesome.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Full install of my modified EK blocks. Too bad I couldn't get any tight bends with the acrylic tubes to connect the mobo & CPU.


Nice job, that ram fits the mobo and blocks so perfectly. I need to save up for a kit myself.


----------



## stickg1

Man, I want access to Be Quiet power supplies and Alpenfohn fans. The shipping is brutal...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Man, I want access to Be Quiet power supplies and Alpenfohn fans. The shipping is brutal...


Specialtech.co.uk. They will hook you up,mail them and tell them I sent you. Join the forum and get your post count to qualify for shipping reduction,UK get free shipping,you will probably get a large reduction.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Specialtech.co.uk. They will hook you up,mail them and tell them I sent you. Join the forum and get your post count to qualify for shipping reduction,UK get free shipping,you will probably get a large reduction.


how do these fans perform comparing to ap15?


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That or perhaps a flake of painting from somewhere in the system? With this picture is hard to tell.


Possibly. It is about 1-2 CM long and the 2 "tails" flap around. It is stuck in the lower left corner of the window of the bay res.

Here is the best shot I got of it.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> They seem to be etched into the paint and into the fitting itself. Short of stripping them down, sanding smooth and repainting, I think there's no quick fix.


That's why I went for the XSPC fittings. They look a lot like Bitpower's but cheaper and their logo isn't very conspicuous, and you can paint them later. I really wanted the BP white fittings but didn't like how the black logo stood out in my color scheme. If it was white with silver logo I would've been okay with that.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Possibly. It is about 1-2 CM long and the 2 "tails" flap around. It is stuck in the lower left corner of the window of the bay res.
> 
> Here is the best shot I got of it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks kinda like silicone to me.....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Possibly. It is about 1-2 CM long and the 2 "tails" flap around. It is stuck in the lower left corner of the window of the bay res.
> 
> Here is the best shot I got of it.


Are you sure that it isn't some glue on the edge of the acrylic that you didn't notice before? If you have any concerns though that it could be algae growth then I'd flush out your loop just to be safe.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Looks kinda like silicone to me.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Are you sure that it isn't some glue on the edge of the acrylic that you didn't notice before? If you have any concerns though that it could be algae growth then I'd flush out your loop just to be safe.


Both are quite possible. I feel like I remember something about it. I think I am getting close for a flush and clean.

Edit: Thanks to everyone who answered.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> You'll have to look at the amperage of the two. See what amperage your motherboard can handle and also check the pump. I think D5 pumps are 2 amps so your mobo's fan controller will need more than that to be able to work. I don't know what the ampage of DDC/DPC pumps are though but probably less.


Thanks for the heads up, guys. As it's already powered from the molex cable of my PSU, only the PWM connector will be go to the motherboard. After the change, it will go from PSU -> Multi-fan hub -> pump.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Does only one of the plugs on the splitter cable have three pins then ?
> leaviing 2 of them with just 2 pins ?
> That would drive me crazy having the fan rpm bouncing all over the show.
> 
> EDIT - Image I found of your cable looks like a _daisy chain_ type cable, which I think is messing with your rpm signal.
> 
> EDIT 2 - PM sent
> 
> EDIT 3 - pix I just took of correct fan plugs for speed signal to work - just one plug with speed signal pin
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey mate thanks for your time and explanation,all the fans work perfectly on my 360 rad now,give and take about 50 or so rpm....


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> That's why I went for the XSPC fittings. They look a lot like Bitpower's but cheaper and their logo isn't very conspicuous, and you can paint them later. I really wanted the BP white fittings but didn't like how the black logo stood out in my color scheme. If it was white with silver logo I would've been okay with that.


Yeah, it's too bad I already have a large array of black Bitspower fittings. Wish I would have scrutinized them more closely before buying.....can't afford to buy all new fittings again. I'd be happy if they were the silver shining or possibly black nickel versions though.


----------



## Hefner

I bought this 1x PWM to 3x PWM splitter: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/30cm-phobya-y-cable-4pin-pwm-to-3x-4pin-pwm-black

I'm looking at it right now and only only 1 of 3 female connectors have 4 pins. The female connector with 4 pins is labeled as you can see in the picture with "fan speed signal" . I'm totally confused because the decription literally says 1x 4 pin male to 3x 4pin female.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I bought this 1x PWM to 3x PWM splitter: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/30cm-phobya-y-cable-4pin-pwm-to-3x-4pin-pwm-black
> 
> I'm looking at it right now and only only 1 of 3 female connectors have 4 pins. The female connector with 4 pins is labeled as you can see in the picture with "fan speed signal" . I'm totally confused because the decription literally says 1x 4 pin male to 3x 4pin female.


I'm guessing that the way that splitter works is that the 3x 3pin females just report speeds since they lack the 4th pin that would allow for speed control. They are PWM in a sense because they will relay a PWM signal, they just won't allow you to individually control the connected devices. The 1 4 pin female though will allow for PWM control and the others will run off of the same fan curve that you set for it.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I bought this 1x PWM to 3x PWM splitter: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/30cm-phobya-y-cable-4pin-pwm-to-3x-4pin-pwm-black
> 
> I'm looking at it right now and only only 1 of 3 female connectors have 4 pins. The female connector with 4 pins is labeled as you can see in the picture with "fan speed signal" . I'm totally confused because the decription literally says 1x 4 pin male to 3x 4pin female.


Perhaps it just needs to obtain the fan speed signal from one of the fans, since all the fans will be running at the same speed anyways, and the other two just need the power? But that's just a basic guess, I don't know if it's possible for the electricity to run that way.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I bought this 1x PWM to 3x PWM splitter: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/30cm-phobya-y-cable-4pin-pwm-to-3x-4pin-pwm-black
> 
> I'm looking at it right now and only only 1 of 3 female connectors have 4 pins. The female connector with 4 pins is labeled as you can see in the picture with "fan speed signal" . I'm totally confused because the decription literally says 1x 4 pin male to 3x 4pin female.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing that the way that splitter works is that the 3x 3pin females just report speeds since they lack the 4th pin that would allow for speed control. They are PWM in a sense because they will relay a PWM signal, they just won't allow you to individually control the connected devices. The 1 4 pin female though will allow for PWM control and the others will run off of the same fan curve that you set for it.
Click to expand...

this.


----------



## darwing

re-did the res mount in black thick acrylic and put the graumet through the acrylic for the custom power to come through... the fitting of the mobo and the panel I created is so perfect!!

build log

stay tuned for the video update


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yo pimp, can u post a pic of your video card setup for us please, specifically how you have it tubed..... Thx
> 
> Edit: nevermind, I think I found a picture for your system in the 650D thread, I don't want to sound like I'm talking down, but you DID enable SLI, correct? Your positive that both cards are working during your test runs and not just one? I only ask, because I have done that before....


Yes I have SLI enabled in Nvidia Control Panel. I had that issue once before when I was still on air. lol They are both absolutely running. I remounted the block earlier today and still the same problem. Do you think that too much tim could be an issue? I'm also running them in parallel in the loop. I wouldn't think that'd matter though.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Just keep in mind that Valley's on screen display on the upper right shows the secondary card first, then the primary. So if you're basing your temps on that, it's the top card that's running hotter. What temps are you seeing on your hot card?
> 
> If it's a 40C delta and you're up in the 80c range on the hot one, that's telling me you're simply not getting water flowing past that core..a bad mount with flow should at least make _some_ contact and you'd see lower deltas than 40c, and a bad mount with no flow would show higher than that. Could be you're just using the waterblock as a big passive heatsink at the moment.
> 
> If, however, your hot card is in the 40-60C temp range and the cool card is down in the 20c range, that's a different story, probably just means that bottom card isn't getting used in SLI.
> 
> I'm with Jim, I'd really like to see a picture of your GPU plumbing.


Yeah I'm going by the upper temp for my second gpu. I was also running Precision X so I could monitor things further. The bottom card gets in the 80's while the top card stays in the 40's.

Here is a pic sir.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I'm temped to dismantle the whole thing to see if there's something going on inside of the block.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yes I have SLI enabled in Nvidia Control Panel. I had that issue once before when I was still on air. lol They are both absolutely running. I remounted the block earlier today and still the same problem. Do you think that too much tim could be an issue? I'm also running them in paralled in the loop. I wouldn't think that'd matter though.


Either you have a bad mount the second time around, which is doubtful, or you have a large air pocket in your GPU. In a parallel configuration this is more likely the issue because it can be very difficult to get all of the air out of the second card when you're running in parallel. I've had this happen to me before and it can be very difficult to resolve.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Either you have a bad mount the second time around, which is doubtful, or you have a large air pocket in your GPU. In a parallel configuration this is more likely the issue because it can be very difficult to get all of the air out of the second card when you're running in parallel. I've had this happen to me before and it can be very difficult to resolve.


Hmmm.. Are there any kind of pressure valves on the market with G1/4 threads? I'm wondering if there's an alternative for bleeding air from a water cooled system.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> re-did the res mount in black thick acrylic and put the graumet through the acrylic for the custom power to come through... the fitting of the mobo and the panel I created is so perfect!!


You could sell that to some rabid Saints fan for like 3 times what it cost to build.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hmmm.. Are there any kind of pressure valves on the market with G1/4 threads? I'm wondering if there's an alternative for bleeding air from a water cooled system.


What pump are you using and can you vary the speed of it? Varying the speed of the pump can greatly help with bleeding the air out of your loop. Tilting the case and varying the speed of your pump should be able to help you remove the air from your card. This is basically what I had to do. It just takes time and patience.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What pump are you using and can you vary the speed of it? Varying the speed of the pump can greatly help with bleeding the air out of your loop. Tilting the case and varying the speed of your pump should be able to help you remove the air from your card. This is basically what I had to do. It just takes time and patience.


I bought the wrong pump by accident. I meant to get the MCP655 variable speed but got the B version. Maybe if a do a few cartwheels with it...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hmmm.. Are there any kind of pressure valves on the market with G1/4 threads? I'm wondering if there's an alternative for bleeding air from a water cooled system.


Check out the Bitspower Air Exhaust fitting: http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=3203


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Check out the Bitspower Air Exhaust fitting: http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=3203


Do these fittings exhaust air automatically or do you have to press them?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Check out the Bitspower Air Exhaust fitting: http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=3203


I like!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39576


----------



## VSG

You need to press them, they are active exhausts. So account for installation as high in the loop as possible and some liquid spillage as well. Aquacomputer makes a passive version of this but that works best for relieving the loop off excess pressure than for bleeding air.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What pump are you using and can you vary the speed of it? Varying the speed of the pump can greatly help with bleeding the air out of your loop. Tilting the case and varying the speed of your pump should be able to help you remove the air from your card. This is basically what I had to do. It just takes time and patience.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the wrong pump by accident. I meant to get the MCP655 variable speed but got the B version. Maybe if a do a few cartwheels with it...
Click to expand...

If that doesn't do it . . . .

As a last resort, . . . get some very adsorbent towels and maybe a chamois or 2 and with the pump running only, no system power, pack the towels around the GPU and fittings areas and loosen them enough to leak pretty much, outlet sides of the GPUs, and see if that won't burp/blast the air bubble out.

D.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You need to press them, they are active exhausts. So account for installation as high in the loop as possible and some liquid spillage as well. Aquacomputer makes a passive version of this but that works best for relieving the loop off excess pressure than for bleeding air.


Alright thanks for the info. Much obliged!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You need to press them, they are active exhausts. So account for installation as high in the loop as possible and some liquid spillage as well. Aquacomputer makes a passive version of this but that works best for relieving the loop off excess pressure than for bleeding air.


with the way the Aqua Computer one is designed I would only ever use it as intended, which is @ the top of the reservoir.

got my mobo blocks & res in today, will link some pics later.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If that doesn't do it . . . .
> 
> As a last resort, . . . get some very adsorbent towels and maybe a chamois or 2 and with the pump running only, no system power, pack the towels around the GPU and fittings areas and loosen them enough to leak pretty much, outlet sides of the GPUs, and see if that won't burp/blast the air bubble out.
> 
> D.


That sound feasible. Kinda like burping a baby! Noted.. Thanks D!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I'm looking at it right now and only only 1 of 3 female connectors have 4 pins. The female connector with 4 pins is labeled as you can see in the picture with "fan speed signal" . I'm totally confused because the decription literally says 1x 4 pin male to 3x 4pin female.


I have that one as well, it works fine, it's just you only get rpm sensing from one of the fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Perhaps it just needs to obtain the fan speed signal from one of the fans, since all the fans will be running at the same speed anyways, and the other two just need the power? But that's just a basic guess, I don't know if it's possible for the electricity to run that way.


Kind of. But it's more that you cannot have all three fans report their speed on 1 splitted wire. Then you would get 3 x the pulse. Either it would report 3 x the actual rpm, or pulses would interfere with one another and you'd get a kind of jumpy rpm signal.


----------



## stickg1

I was bored and shoved my spare 120mm rad up top to see if it changed the temps much. Rocking a 8C delta on the water temps after folding CPU and GPU for a half hour. Not too shabby. Might rise a little bit if the close the case because two the radiators are exhaust. Not the prettiest setup but seems effective at dissipating heat!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

@ stickg1,still waiting for that pic of the back of the sensor. D Ordered mine today finally,how is it mounted to the tubes ? Still gonna trying and mount mine on the side of the 5.25 Drive bay....


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was bored and shoved my spare 120mm rad up top to see if it changed the temps much. Rocking a 8C delta on the water temps after folding CPU and GPU for a half hour. Not too shabby. Might rise a little bit if the close the case because two the radiators are exhaust. Not the prettiest setup but seems effective at dissipating heat!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why not just throw a 240 or 360 up top?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was bored and shoved my spare 120mm rad up top to see if it changed the temps much. Rocking a 8C delta on the water temps after folding CPU and GPU for a half hour. Not too shabby. Might rise a little bit if the close the case because two the radiators are exhaust. Not the prettiest setup but seems effective at dissipating heat!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


Photoshop!









Seriously though, not sure if it's the lighting &/or color of the coolant or what all (I suspect a combination of both) it is but it does look oddly like the watercooling gear has been photoshopped in. lol I don't recall ever seeing a rig give off that kind of illusion before.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> @ stickg1,still waiting for that pic of the back of the sensor. D Ordered mine today finally,how is it mounted to the tubes ? Still gonna trying and mount mine on the side of the 5.25 Drive bay....


It's actually double-sided taped to this block like T fitting. I have half a quick-disconnect hooked to it for draining purposes. I'll take the pic now while I've been reminded...

(pic quality kind of sucks, I had to have it zoom otherwise the lens was blinded by the LEDs in my case. I didn't have enough spare cable to pull it out of the case.)




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Why not just throw a 240 or 360 up top?


I guess because I already have all these other rads. I would like to just put a 360mm up top but then I would have all these unused 120mm's. I've had two of them listed in the marketplace for a few weeks now, not even so much as a nibble. Everyone is too big time for 120's these days I suppose.







That or I'm asking too much, and if that's the case I'll probably just hold on to them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Photoshop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, not sure if it's the lighting &/or color of the coolant or what all (I suspect a combination of both) it is but it does look oddly like the watercooling gear has been photoshopped in. lol I don't recall ever seeing a rig give off that kind of illusion before.


I think it's just the way the LEDs illuminate the inside of the case. There's quite a few.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Photoshop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, not sure if it's the lighting &/or color of the coolant or what all (I suspect a combination of both) it is but it does look oddly like the watercooling gear has been photoshopped in. lol I don't recall ever seeing a rig give off that kind of illusion before.


The word you are looking for is "Psychedelic"


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It's actually double-sided taped to this block like T fitting. I have half a quick-disconnect hooked to it for draining purposes. I'll take the pic now while I've been reminded...
> 
> (pic quality kind of sucks, I had to have it zoom otherwise the lens was blinded by the LEDs in my case. I didn't have enough spare cable to pull it out of the case.)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you,very much appreciated....Looks like it should fit perfectly between the slots on the 5.25 bay....


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The word you are looking for is "Psychedelic"


To be fair I was trippin' face when I assembled the sucker!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thank you,very much appreciated....Looks like it should fit perfectly between the slots on the 5.25 bay....


Yeah I just pulled my 5.25" out of the garage and it would def. work like that. If it's a little tight you could always widen the slot with a dremel or even a decent drill bit.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup, got my order the night the discount kicked in. Went w/ green, my theme color for these last few builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm setting them up on a p/p config on three rads.


So I got mine today. Rather sexy if I say so myself. Mine are blue though.









One thing I noticed while testing them is that they have a slight vibration when facing the bottom an exhausting top. Vertical or horizontal pushing air down they were totally smooth though.

They did move a decent amount of air at full rpm while being quieter then my Corsair AF120's at 900 rpm.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So I got mine today. Rather sexy if I say so myself. Mine are blue though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I noticed while testing them is that they have a slight vibration when facing the bottom an exhausting top. Vertical or horizontal pushing air down they were totally smooth though.
> 
> They did move a decent amount of air at full rpm while being quieter then my Corsair AF120's at 900 rpm.


Sweet


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> To be fair I was trippin' face when I assembled the sucker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I just pulled my 5.25" out of the garage and it would def. work like that. If it's a little tight you could always widen the slot with a dremel or even a decent drill bit.


Won't be modding it,just going to find away to mount up there (hopefully)....


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I guess because I already have all these other rads. I would like to just put a 360mm up top but then I would have all these unused 120mm's. I've had two of them listed in the marketplace for a few weeks now, not even so much as a nibble. Everyone is too big time for 120's these days I suppose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That or I'm asking too much, and if that's the case I'll probably just hold on to them.
> I think it's just the way the LEDs illuminate the inside of the case. There's quite a few.


How much you asking for the 120s? I been debating about throwing some rads into my folding rig so I can finally get these turbo jet sounding silverstone fans out. Plus, I got my Rasa kit just sitting in the kitchen doing nothing atm. I be willing to probably grab two of them off you so I can throw them into this NZXT Apollo. Then I can throw up to three rads into this little case to quite it down for its upcoming TC duty.

Only thing so far watercooled in the folding rig.


----------



## SeeThruHead

While we're on the topic of fans. Anyone know what's up with akasa vipers 140mm? Can't seem to find any instock.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> While we're on the topic of fans. Anyone know what's up with akasa vipers 140mm? Can't seem to find any instock.


These ones?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Nope. Those are the 120mm. I need the 140mm square version. Which I can't seem to find.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Nope. Those are the 120mm. I need the 140mm square version. Which I can't seem to find.


You mean these







http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/akvi14akpwm2.html


----------



## brazilianloser

Well another club to join. Here is my incomplete build. Still going to do some minor mods and re-routing once FrozenCpu finally decides to send me my two 290 blocks. Nothing amazing compared to most here but it is my first strive into water cooling.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You mean these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/akvi14akpwm2.html


yeah, out of stock everywhere it seems.


----------



## Anoxy

edit: nevermind.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Nope. Those are the 120mm. I need the 140mm square version. Which I can't seem to find.


Google Shopping result looks like they have them in stock. Bit pricy but free shipping & looks like a volume discount if buying +3 ...
http://dx.com/p/akasa-ak-fn063-viper-140mm-4-pin-pwm-9-blade-cooling-heatsink-fan-for-computer-yellow-black-160107
Never heard of dx.com before but Google shopping shows them w/ over 1,000 ratings: https://www.google.com/shopping/seller?q=8170965


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> While we're on the topic of fans. Anyone know what's up with akasa vipers 140mm? Can't seem to find any instock.


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-FN063-Viper-Performance-S-Flow/dp/B005O6519A


----------



## SeeThruHead

Thanks guys. I'm on mobile so can't check if UK amazon ships to Canada. Doubt it. Also do seems pretty expensive as I want 18 of them. Yikes.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well another club to join. Here is my incomplete build. Still going to do some minor mods and re-routing once FrozenCpu finally decides to send me my two 290 blocks. Nothing amazing compared to most here but it is my first strive into water cooling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good mate,do you have a 3mm led in that res....?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Looking good mate,do you have a 3mm led in that res....?


Two actually. Got one of these from FrozenCpu then just stuck two little 3mm led in the spot for it. Its no XSPC Photon but it gives a necessary bling to the res.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Two actually. Got one of these from FrozenCpu then just stuck two little 3mm led in the spot for it. Its no XSPC Photon but it gives a necessary bling to the res.


I got one of these for my res with UV lights. Still need to get some cold cathode lighting strips.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> re-did the res mount in black thick acrylic and put the graumet through the acrylic for the custom power to come through... the fitting of the mobo and the panel I created is so perfect!!
> 
> build log
> 
> stay tuned for the video update


Love it dude! Great job and a great idea!


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Man, I want access to Be Quiet power supplies and Alpenfohn fans. The shipping is brutal..
> 
> PPCS has Be Quiet PSU's
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22_1266


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Two actually. Got one of these from FrozenCpu then just stuck two little 3mm led in the spot for it. Its no XSPC Photon but it gives a necessary bling to the res.


Well guess i'm out of luck then,i doubt i will be able to find one of these in australia....Wish i had seen that when i was getting my res from PPC....


----------



## Jakewat

Having heaps of problems finding ap-15's and 14's that can either ship to NZ or are here. Anyone got any other suggestions for 3 fans for an alphacool ST360 rad, I was able to get 4 ap-14's for my 480 but it's looking like I might need other fans to put on my top 360. Mainly looking for half decent fans with nice looking blades, no flashy leds or colours.
Sorry if I'm off topic or anything.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Having heaps of problems finding ap-15's and 14's that can either ship to NZ or are here. Anyone got any other suggestions for 3 fans for an alphacool ST360 rad, I was able to get 4 ap-14's for my 480 but it's looking like I might need other fans to put on my top 360. Mainly looking for half decent fans with nice looking blades, no flashy leds or colours.
> Sorry if I'm off topic or anything.


Does this place ship to NZ?
http://www.xpmicro.com.au/chassis-cooling-fan/20448-sc-d1225c12b5ap-15-1850rpm.html

edit: Or maybe here?:
http://www.mwave.com.au/product/scythe-nidec-servo-gentle-typhoon-120mm-fan-1850rpm-aa15914


----------



## fakeblood

I was going to suggest watercoolinguk but looks like I bought the last AP-15s from them


----------



## Anoxy

I'm fairly sure Amazon ships to New Zealand. If you search Amazon international for AP-15s, they come up.


----------



## Jakewat

Well, xpmicro doesn't ship to my address, Mwave would cost $110 in just shipping costs, watercoolinguk doesn't list them and amazon don't ship to NZ unless I use a forwarding company which usually end up costing an arm and a leg.

That was why I was mainly after alternatives. I can't seem to find any other fans with the grey blade, black surround style like the typhoons which would match. That's my main problem. Are glidestreams any good or no?


----------



## fakeblood

Would you consider the Helix?


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Would you consider the Helix?


Nice looking fans, would probably have to paint them. But my other problem is time. I am hoping to try finish up my build this weekend, as long as I get my radgrill from Aus in time and the only thing holding me back from 100% completion is 3 top fans.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Nice looking fans, would probably have to paint them. But my other problem is time. I am hoping to try finish up my build this weekend, as long as I get my radgrill from Aus in time and the only thing holding me back from 100% completion is 3 top fans.


Could always get 3 AP-14s from Scott @ Techworld. Wont be cheap buying local though


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Completed my Aztec Dark knight


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Could always get 3 AP-14s from Scott @ Techworld. Wont be cheap buying local though


Actually I've been in contact with him about stocks and he has told me he is in the process of getting more typhoons in and might of been able to give me a better price, but he seems to be quite busy with that so I might ask him if he would give me three for slightly less than $36 each, considering I got hold of 4 for $60 lol.

@LaBestiaHumana
Very nice build, and very clean. Got to love clean built acrylic rigs


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Actually I've been in contact with him about stocks and he has told me he is in the process of getting more typhoons in and might of been able to give me a better price, but he seems to be quite busy with that so I might ask him if he would give me three for slightly less than $36 each, considering I got hold of 4 for $60 lol.
> 
> @LaBestiaHumana
> Very nice build, and very clean. Got to love clean built acrylic rigs


Yeah he is a good dude like that. Id offer to sell some of mine, but Im afraid I might leave myself short once I get round to needing them


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Completed my Aztec Dark knight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build mate....


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Yeah he is a good dude like that. Id offer to sell some of mine, but Im afraid I might leave myself short once I get round to needing them


Not sure how long it will take for the typhoons to resume production and who will be distributing them. From the information that I have found it's something like scythe has lost the patent on the typhoons and therefore they have been listed as discontinued, but nidec servo corp will continue production of them. So I picked the worst time to get hold of some really, and it seems like no one in NZ has any to sell.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> @LaBestiaHumana
> Very nice build, and very clean. Got to love clean built acrylic rigs


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Nice build mate....


Thanks fellas, more time for gaming now that it's done.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yeah I'm going by the upper temp for my second gpu. I was also running Precision X so I could monitor things further. The bottom card gets in the 80's while the top card stays in the 40's.
> 
> Here is a pic sir.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm temped to dismantle the whole thing to see if there's something going on inside of the block.


Another vote for air pocket. If you weren't using acrylic, sometimes a good squeezing of tubing can force that out.

What direction is your flow? Not that it matters with your current GPU problem, but if your flow order is CPU-GPU, be sure that your Raystorm block is being fed from the proper port, it is direction specific (and marked). Can't tell from the picture if you flipped it 180 or if it's in the default orientation...if it's default with "Raystorm" lettering on top of the block, and the flow is CPU first, you're feeding it backwards and that will have a noticeable impact on CPU temps. If you're flowing through the GPU from the bottom up, disregard.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Having heaps of problems finding ap-15's and 14's that can either ship to NZ or are here. Anyone got any other suggestions for 3 fans for an alphacool ST360 rad, I was able to get 4 ap-14's for my 480 but it's looking like I might need other fans to put on my top 360. Mainly looking for half decent fans with nice looking blades, no flashy leds or colours.
> Sorry if I'm off topic or anything.


Get some Noiseblocker eLoops. Especially since it sounds like you're only gonna be running push fans. eLoops are great for push fans.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Completed my Aztec Dark knight


nice rig mate









lol how hard is it to get that monsta too fit in the top
I was fighting it all the way in my rig



http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7628.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7631.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7680.jpg.html


----------



## Angrychair

OH MY


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> nice rig mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol how hard is it to get that monsta too fit in the top
> I was fighting it all the way in my rig
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7628.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7631.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7680.jpg.html


Awesome build man,









Wasn't hard at all, but did have to plug in the CPU power connectors before installing it.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> nice rig mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol how hard is it to get that monsta too fit in the top
> I was fighting it all the way in my rig
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7628.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7631.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7680.jpg.html


i hate you.


----------



## Kenjiwing

nice rig but the crookedness of that middle tube is driving me insane


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> nice rig but the crookedness of that middle tube is driving me insane


Lol ya it is not crooked any more the fitting just twisted when
I was taking the pictures that day

And I'm to lazy to move my rig in to a room with good lighting
To tack new and better pictures but I have a 780 TI KEP
Coming tomorrow so I will need to add it to the loop any
Then I will take some better pictures and you will see it's not
Crooked


----------



## Maximus Knight

here's my workstation/recreation setup for 2014 =)


----------



## alfaify




----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Completed my Aztec Dark knight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful work!


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> here's my workstation/recreation setup for 2014 =)


I really like the way you braided the cables, nice touch.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> nice rig mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol how hard is it to get that monsta too fit in the top
> I was fighting it all the way in my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7628.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7631.jpg.html
> 
> http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/IMG_7680.jpg.html


Great job! That's a very well thought out build. Seeing the HDD cages still intact in a build makes it even more appealing to me.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah great job Bestia. You should bring it over we can have a mini-LAN!









Heh and seeing the builder in action on one of the pics was a cool touch.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Nice looking fans, would probably have to paint them. But my other problem is time. I am hoping to try finish up my build this weekend, as long as I get my radgrill from Aus in time and the only thing holding me back from 100% completion is 3 top fans.


You might try Frozencpu. They have tons of AP-15 in stock and they do ship to NZ. It might take longer that a week however to get there.


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Great job! That's a very well thought out build. Seeing the HDD cages still intact in a build makes it even more appealing to me.


thanks mate


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Awesome build man,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wasn't hard at all, but did have to plug in the CPU power connectors before installing it.


for me it was my 8pin and 4 pin where in the way really need to push it in


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> I really like the way you braided the cables, nice touch.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Nice looking fans, would probably have to paint them. But my other problem is time. I am hoping to try finish up my build this weekend, as long as I get my radgrill from Aus in time and the only thing holding me back from 100% completion is 3 top fans.


I'll still say get the AP-15's. The bearing on those Helix fans aren't that good and their overall specs don't match up to the Typhoons. If you're on a budget, the Helix fans will work fine









-Zepp


----------



## Pimphare

Ok y'all, I think the reason I'm getting high temps on my second gpu is due to poor contact. What do you think?




If you can gather anything from the poor image quality...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Ok y'all, I think the reason I'm getting high temps on my second gpu is due to poor contact. What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can gather anything from the poor image quality...


Dear god.....

You need much more pressure than that.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dear god.....
> 
> You need much more pressure than that.


That's what I figured. I read in another thread where someone had found some copper shims and used them on the gpu die. It looks like I'm getting decent pressure on the thermal pads doesn't it? Not sure if you can tell in the pics.

Edit: Here's a better pic.


----------



## kcuestag

Are you sure you used the appropiate sized thermal pads? You should be getting way more contact on the GPU Core


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Ok y'all, I think the reason I'm getting high temps on my second gpu is due to poor contact. What do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can gather anything from the poor image quality...


Definitely poor contact. Get that thing hunkered down


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Are you sure you used the appropiate sized thermal pads? You should be getting way more contact on the GPU Core


Yes sir. The pads came with the block as a kit pre-cut. My other card with same setup in SLI is getting great temps.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Definitely poor contact. Get that thing hunkered down


Im a little nervous of over tightening it. Maybe I can sand down the screw stand offs a tidbit?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Heh I am going to have to face the music someday but this is one reason I bought my first wc GPU used with block already installed. Hope you get it sorted soon, man. This loop rebuild is taking long enough without having to figure out my block installation as well and possibly deal with issues. Knowing me and my klutzy hands I'd kill it too. At least I'm not drunk while doing this kinda stuff anymore lol.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Heh I am going to have to face the music someday but this is one reason I bought my first wc GPU used with block already installed. Hope you get it sorted soon, man. This loop rebuild is taking long enough without having to figure out my block installation as well and possibly deal with issues. Knowing me and my klutzy hands I'd kill it too. At least I'm not drunk while doing this kinda stuff anymore lol.


I was a little tipsy during the case modding. Trying to stay sober through the rest of the build. Lol I'll get it figured out one way or another. My Dremel is calling me!


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's what I figured. I read in another thread where someone had found some copper shims and used them on the gpu die. It looks like I'm getting decent pressure on the thermal pads doesn't it? Not sure if you can tell in the pics.
> 
> Edit: Here's a better pic.


to bring the block closer to the chip use smaller thickness thermal pads.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Im a little nervous of over tightening it. Maybe I can sand down the screw stand offs a tidbit?


Don't sand anything unless you are very very sure what it is that's preventing the contact with the die.

For example, try removing all the thermal pads carefully, then mount the block. Don't screw in, just push down with your hand. Remove and check if the thermal paste is better spread. If it is, then you know it's the pads and not the stand-offs.


----------



## subsven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> for me it was my 8pin and 4 pin where in the way really need to push it in


Uhm, how did you connect the tubing at the bottom of your two video cards? Are both sides of the bottom card outlets or am I not seeing it right? Doesn't add up mentally.


----------



## sinnedone

I agree.

For a test might I suggest taking the thermal pads off and install Tim then mount the block. If it still doesn't sit right look for something the plate might be getting hung up on. If the Tim looks like it should then I bet the thermal pads are too thick like previously mentioned


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subsven*
> 
> Uhm, how did you connect the tubing at the bottom of your two video cards? Are both sides of the bottom card outlets or am I not seeing it right? Doesn't add up mentally.


No only the left side is the outlet
The other side is the drain port for the GPUs so I can swap them out
Fast as I need


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Don't sand anything unless you are very very sure what it is that's preventing the contact with the die.
> 
> For example, try removing all the thermal pads carefully, then mount the block. Don't screw in, just push down with your hand. Remove and check if the thermal paste is better spread. If it is, then you know it's the pads and not the stand-offs.


Well I tried the push down with hand method but with the thermal pads on. It's more likely the milling of the block because I have two of these and the upper card is fine. I don't have any other pads to use, however I did have some success with the sanding process. I used a dremel with a sanding bit to sand down the "screw sand-offs". The results were so incredible that I'm going to do my other card later tonight when I get home from work. Here are a couple of pics.




Before Valley Benchmark:
Top card = 40's Celsius
Bottom card = 80's Celsius

After Valley Benchmark:
Top card = 42 Celsius
Bottom card= 24 Celsius

A solid 17-18 degree lower temp than the top card now!! Granted it's 35 degrees Fahrenheit outside here and my computer's in the garage.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Well I tried the push down with hand method but with the thermal pads on. It's more likely the milling of the block because I have two of these and the upper card is fine. I don't have any other pads to use, however I did have some success with the sanding process. I used a dremel with a sanding bit to sand down the "screw sand-offs". The results were so incredible that I'm going to do my other card later tonight when I get home from work. Here are a couple of pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before Valley Benchmark:
> Top card = 40's Celsius
> Bottom card = 80's Celsius
> 
> After Valley Benchmark:
> Top card = 42 Celsius
> Bottom card= 24 Celsius
> 
> 
> 
> A solid 17-18 degree lower temp than the top card now!! Granted it's 35 degrees Fahrenheit outside here and my computer's in the garage.


Contact looks much better....as do the temps

However, I would have probably tried to RMA the block instead of sanding and voiding warranty....


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Well I tried the push down with hand method but with the thermal pads on. It's more likely the milling of the block because I have two of these and the upper card is fine. I don't have any other pads to use, however I did have some success with the sanding process. I used a dremel with a sanding bit to sand down the "screw sand-offs". The results were so incredible that I'm going to do my other card later tonight when I get home from work. Here are a couple of pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before Valley Benchmark:
> Top card = 40's Celsius
> Bottom card = 80's Celsius
> 
> After Valley Benchmark:
> Top card = 42 Celsius
> Bottom card= 24 Celsius
> 
> A solid 17-18 degree lower temp than the top card now!! Granted it's 35 degrees Fahrenheit outside here and my computer's in the garage.


That temp difference between the two cards strikes me as odd. My 7970s always have been at ~40c


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> That temp difference between the two cards strikes me as odd. My 7970s always have been at ~40c


It is a little durastic, however, if the one block had a contact issue, perhaps the other has one too, just not as extreme as the other


----------



## Rickles

Ahhh didn't catch the part where the computer is in the garage...

I've had 9c idle temps when the heat went out in my house last winter... was not fun.


----------



## Jimhans1

Hey folks, have any of you use the backplates for your GPUs from the folks at www.coldzero.eu are they any good? And if you have used them, did you use them with a waterblock or the stock cooler??

Trying to find plates for my gtx580's to dress them up in a build for the little lady.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey folks, have any of you use the backplates for your GPUs from the folks at www.coldzero.eu are they any good? And if you have used them, did you use them with a waterblock or the stock cooler??
> 
> Trying to find plates for my gtx580's to dress them up in a build for the little lady.


I haven't used their backplates, but they are a solid sight







They will do some custom work for you for cheap if you like that kind of stuff.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey folks, have any of you use the backplates for your GPUs from the folks at www.coldzero.eu are they any good? And if you have used them, did you use them with a waterblock or the stock cooler??
> 
> Trying to find plates for my gtx580's to dress them up in a build for the little lady.


Ricardo makes good stuff,you can rely on it.

He did this for a friend of mine. Hukkel loves them.



I have had Sli bridges and stuff and have always been happy.


----------



## wermad

UT 420 & 280s arrived







!!! Glad to see the badges are now optional


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ricardo makes good stuff,you can rely on it.
> 
> He did this for a friend of mine. Hukkel loves them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have had Sli bridges and stuff and have always been happy.


Those certainly look nice and very high quality, I wonder what shipping to the U.S. would be?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Contact looks much better....as do the temps
> 
> However, I would have probably tried to RMA the block instead of sanding and voiding warranty....


Well I bought these blocks brand new unopened on ebay at a good price. Not sure if I'd be able to RMA them anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is a little durastic, however, if the one block had a contact issue, perhaps the other has one too, just not as extreme as the other


Exactly what I'm thinking. I'll work on the upper block tonight and report back.


----------



## ccRicers

Is it possible to short out your graphics card due to over-tightening the water block? The die isn't cracked or anything, but maybe one of the components touched the metal side of the block. I fear my graphics card might be dead, and that would really suck because I just bought it a few weeks ago used, as a replacement for a card that was incompatible with the water block.

The BIOS doesn't recognize the card but PCIe power still runs though it. I could connect the stock fan to the card and it will spin.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Is it possible to short out your graphics card due to over-tightening the water block? The die isn't cracked or anything, but maybe one of the components touched the metal side of the block. I fear my graphics card might be dead, and that would really suck because I just bought it a few weeks ago used, as a replacement for a card that was incompatible with the water block.
> 
> The BIOS doesn't recognize the card but PCIe power still runs though it. I could connect the stock fan to the card and it will spin.


Might be possible if the card pcb is bowing from too much pressure and causing it make contact in certain areas where it shouldn't be. I'd be careful to not over tighten it and cracking the die though.

Be sure visually that the card isn't bowing or getting hung up anywhere when mounted to the block.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Might be possible if the card pcb is bowing from too much pressure and causing it make contact in certain areas where it shouldn't be. I'd be careful to not over tighten it and cracking the die though.


Actually, it is my motherboard that is bowing on the PCI-e side. Probably due to the added weight of the block + card.

I have a HD 4670 that I can dig out and try. Then I'd have a better idea of what's wrong. I'd rather replace my motherboard than the card- it would be a lot cheaper.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Actually, it is my motherboard that is bowing on the PCI-e side. Probably due to the added weight of the block + card.
> 
> I have a HD 4670 that I can dig out and try. Then I'd have a better idea of what's wrong. I'd rather replace my motherboard than the card- it would be a lot cheaper.


Ohhh.. Yeah, I'd rather get another mobo also. Do you have all of the motherboard stand-offs installed in your case?


----------



## stickg1

I just realized I have about $400 worth of fittings. That's insane, these little suckers are expensive...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

They so are. Your used ones really helped me out as did some from Nyk20z3 stationed in Germany (my first Enzo stuff mainly caps and extenders and couplers--their logo is not as prominent/noticeable as it appears at the stores). Plus I got a few Barrow adapters and caps. And with a Jab-Tech order that showed up today as well I finally have _everything_ I need (and then some). Up this weekend thank tha lawd; just in time to be able to log into BF4 daily in feb to get my bonus Battle Packs (as if that really makes up for anything but Ill take them&#8230.

JT order Fed Ex Ground to Chicago took less than 72 hours.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ricardo makes good stuff,you can rely on it.
> 
> He did this for a friend of mine. Hukkel loves them.
> 
> I have had Sli bridges and stuff and have always been happy.


Wow, link to site? Those look great.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah fittings are a pain. Especially if you decide you want to go a new aesthetic route for a re-build. I wish I could take advantage of the marketplace here, because re-selling a bunch of fittings on eBay is probably more trouble than it's worth.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey folks, have any of you use the backplates for your GPUs from the folks at www.coldzero.eu are they any good? And if you have used them, did you use them with a waterblock or the stock cooler??
> 
> Trying to find plates for my gtx580's to dress them up in a build for the little lady.
> 
> 
> 
> Ricardo makes good stuff,you can rely on it.
> 
> He did this for a friend of mine. Hukkel loves them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have had Sli bridges and stuff and have always been happy.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wow, link to site? Those look great.
Click to expand...

Ricardo = www.coldzero.eu


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Those certainly look nice and very high quality, I wonder what shipping to the U.S. would be?


The parts I received from coldzero arrived in three days, that's Portugal to western United States in 3 days. I believe sipping was ~13 euros or so? Quite pleased with the quality too.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Ricardo = www.coldzero.eu


this is alu or plexi?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> this is alu or plexi?


It's acrylic laser cut / etched.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> UT 420 & 280s arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! Glad to see the badges are now optional
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


+1 Alphacool!

OK, incoming strange question...

Has anyone ever thought about installing a low restriction water filter into their system before?


----------



## kpoeticg

Some people do. Aquacomputer makes a decent inline filter. http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p8646_Aquacomputer-Filter-with-stainless-steel-mesh--ball-valves-and-mounting-plate-G1-4.html



Although something like this would be more functional. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16967/ex-tub-1372/Innovatek_Liquid_Cooling_Inline_Particulate_Filter_without_cartridge_501531.html?tl=g30c229s1472



Any filter's gonna add restriction, a 35x2 should handle it fine though. I'm personally just gonna install a cpl QDC's on my rig so i can take advantage of the flushing system i already have (like you do)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Some people do. Aquacomputer makes a decent inline filter.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p8646_Aquacomputer-Filter-with-stainless-steel-mesh--ball-valves-and-mounting-plate-G1-4.html
> 
> 
> 
> Although something like this would be more functional. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16967/ex-tub-1372/Innovatek_Liquid_Cooling_Inline_Particulate_Filter_without_cartridge_501531.html?tl=g30c229s1472
> 
> 
> 
> Any filter's gonna add restriction, a 35x2 should handle it fine though. I'm personally just gonna install a cpl QDC's on my rig so i can take advantage of the flushing system i already have (like you do)


The only problem I have with doing that is pushing crap through my pumps.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> +1 Alphacool!
> 
> OK, incoming strange question...
> 
> Has anyone ever thought about installing a low restriction water filter into their system before?


Seen a build log recently where they used one of these just for the first couple days in a new loop. Even after flushing everything beforehand it still caught a few visible pieces of what looked to be strips of paint from threads. Been thinking about doing similar with the loop I'm currently working on.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Ohhh.. Yeah, I'd rather get another mobo also. Do you have all of the motherboard stand-offs installed in your case?


Yeah I do. The motherboard is mounted horizontally in my case and it's a mini ITX so it's not like I have any other slots to try the video card.

I just had several difficulties that followed the building of the loop that it's hard to pinpoint until I come back home. DRAM error after turning it on for the first time with the loop installed, that led to me clearing the CMOS and removing a stick of ram so I am down to 2GB. Catalyst Control Center wouldn't install correctly because no card is detected. BIOS sometimes says the PCIe port is "0x" or "Not Present". So it could be a lot of things.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


lol nice vid









Would you mind me asking what size/style fittings you used and what size tubing? I like the compact size of everything.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> here's my workstation/recreation setup for 2014 =)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That braiding is absolutely sexy!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That braiding is absolutely sexy!


It reminds me of Twizzlers. The kind you can pull apart


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Very cool!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The only problem I have with doing that is pushing crap through my pumps.


What do you mean? It's only a screen to filter the sediment. It has 2 shutoff valves too so you can bypass it while you clean the filter.

It seems like the best option for inline screen-type filters. I like the innovatek better for functionality, but the AC IMO is the best looking one.

Since you already have a good filter though, maybe consider the QDC idea and just hook up your external filter every few weeks


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> The parts I received from coldzero arrived in three days, that's Portugal to western United States in 3 days. I believe sipping was ~13 euros or so? Quite pleased with the quality too.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Wow, that is amazingly fast for international shipping, and reasonable shipping cost. 13 Euro converts to approximately 18 Dollars. I will be thinking about ordering a backplate for my GTX 670 FTW.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> +1 Alphacool!
> 
> OK, incoming strange question...
> 
> Has anyone ever thought about installing a low restriction water filter into their system before?


Just got done tapping the rads to M4. Everything wen smooth and the holes line up nicely. Flushed them and they were very clean.

Never used one but I'm sure the cpu block will catch any debris


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


lol, perfect intro, and a spectacular build. Nice work.

I'm confused about the reservoirs though....is the water running down the outside of those metal rods? It looks really cool.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> lol, perfect intro, and a spectacular build. Nice work.
> 
> I'm confused about the reservoirs though....is the water running down the outside of those metal rods? It looks really cool.


If I am not mistaken those are the "Aqualis", aquacomputer reservoirs with the fountain effect build in it.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If I am not mistaken those are the "Aqualis", aquacomputer reservoirs with the fountain effect build in it.


Well shoot, I might get that instead of the Bitspower res. Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Well shoot, I might get that instead of the Bitspower res. Thanks.


Gorgeous reservoirs, like all aquacomputer stuff. However pay attention to the diameter which is 75 mm while many many reservoirs are 60 mm and photon is 70 mm. I got the numbers from the top of my head because I was considering too (one version even get the level indicator included to hook with a usb in the MB) but alas would not fit my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Primo.

Wow, got several numbers wrong. Photon is also 75 mm just like the aqualis.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah, I should have plenty of room in a Caselabs SM8, though I'm not sure how these mount. I was planning on mounting the Bitspower on my bottom radiator with a UN Designs Z2.


----------



## wermad




----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lookin great brotha!! Can't wait to see a build log and what case you're gonna go with


----------



## [CyGnus]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Congrats on the great build you have its simply mind blowing


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Gorgeous reservoirs, like all aquacomputer stuff. However pay attention to the diameter which is 75 mm while many many reservoirs are 60 mm and photon is 70 mm. I got the numbers from the top of my head because I was considering too (one version even get the level indicator included to hook with a usb in the MB) but alas would not fit my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Wow, got several numbers wrong. Photon is also 75 mm just like the aqualis.


I believe you were right the first time about the Photon, depending on where you are measuring it.

This is a Photon 270 D5 pump combo. The glass tube is 70mm wide.



The top is 73mm. The bottom (where the in/out ports are) is 75mm wide.
The D5 pump ring it comes with is 87mm. The optional XSPC aluminum pump ring is 75mm.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


So much porns...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Gorgeous reservoirs, like all aquacomputer stuff. However pay attention to the diameter which is 75 mm while many many reservoirs are 60 mm and photon is 70 mm. I got the numbers from the top of my head because I was considering too (one version even get the level indicator included to hook with a usb in the MB) but alas would not fit my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Wow, got several numbers wrong. Photon is also 75 mm just like the aqualis.








> I believe you were right the first time about the Photon, depending on where you are measuring it.
> 
> This is a Photon 270 D5 pump combo. The glass tube is 70mm wide.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top is 73mm. The bottom (where the in/out ports are) is 75mm wide.
> The D5 pump ring it comes with is 87mm. The optional XSPC aluminum pump ring is 75mm.


It's not the aluminum ring. The reservoir with the end caps (not the pump combo model) is 75mm diameter. The tube is only 70 tho. Just like i'm pretty sure the Aqualis is 80mm diameter but the tube is 75mm


----------



## stickg1

That Aqualis is sweet. I just looked it up was thinking of getting one. Pretty pricy though, the 450mL with fountain effect and DDC pump adapter is ~$125 before shipping. Maybe I'll save up, although no complaints on this EK 140 w/ DDC top I have. It just looks lame after watching that video. Thanks a lot James!


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah @Jameswalt1 & @Seanimus both have recently made me start thinking how i can fit a vertical mounted res in my rig for that fountain effect


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What do you mean? It's only a screen to filter the sediment. It has 2 shutoff valves too so you can bypass it while you clean the filter.
> It seems like the best option for inline screen-type filters. I like the innovatek better for functionality, but the AC IMO is the best looking one.
> 
> Since you already have a good filter though, maybe consider the QDC idea and just hook up your external filter every few weeks


I was talking about hooking up the rad flushing system to my loop.


----------



## kpoeticg

I didn't necessarily mean the pond pump. I'm probly just gonna hook the filter up from time to time. If you meant your 35x2, it's already flowing through it. I don't see the difference with hooking up an inline filter or hooking up your external filter from time to time, other than the external filter will do a better job of getting rid of the stuff you don't want.

It would probly work best if you have the QDC's coming from the outlet of your pump and inlet of your res. That way it'll still drain your res and filter everything out and your external filter will become the res during the flush. At least that seems to make sense in my brain right now, haven't given it alot of thought just yet LOLLLL

I still got a ways to go with my build before i gotta focus on that aspect

Edit: Actually scratch that. That would make no sense. That wouldn't feed back to your pump.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah fittings are a pain. Especially if you decide you want to go a new aesthetic route for a re-build. I wish I could take advantage of the marketplace here, because re-selling a bunch of fittings on eBay is probably more trouble than it's worth.


All right guys start repping poor Anoxy more...







eBay can be all right though there's the 10% final value fee to consider. Huge user base though...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah @Jameswalt1
> & @Seanimus
> both have recently made me start thinking how i can fit a vertical mounted res in my rig for that fountain effect


Yeah and Darlene made one as some may have missed. She posted again fairly recently.


----------



## ledzepp3

Evening ladies and gentlemen. I've got two questions for you all. Here's the information you might find helpful. I've got all nickel plated EK blocks and Black Ice SR1 radiators. Concerning liquids, I want the whitest possible liquid to go along with the Noiseblocker eLoop fans that are visible in my rig. I've been trying to decide between Ice Dragon liquid and Mayhems Pastel Ice White. I'll be using a very fine filter (350 micron), and am concerned about the dye possibly settling and plugging the filter.

The filter I'm going to use is the Innovatek particle filter. My two questions are:


Which liquid should I pick for the longest lifespan and most worry-free operation?
Could my filter interfere with the fluid once it's dyed?
-Zepp


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah and Darlene made one as some may have missed. She posted again fairly recently.


Yeah, i saw her post that in here recently. It wasn't a whole lotta detail though. I was really curious too because it looked like it was horizontal.

Probly the only reason i didn't go with an Aqualis for my build is because none of the extra functions will work if you mount it horizontal.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Evening ladies and gentlemen. I've got two questions for you all. Here's the information you might find helpful. I've got all nickel plated EK blocks and Black Ice SR1 radiators. Concerning liquids, I want the whitest possible liquid to go along with the Noiseblocker eLoop fans that are visible in my rig. I've been trying to decide between Ice Dragon liquid and Mayhems Pastel Ice White. I'll be using a very fine filter (350 micron), and am concerned about the dye possibly settling and plugging the filter.
> 
> The filter I'm going to use is the Innovatek particle filter. My two questions are:
> 
> 
> Which liquid should I pick for the longest lifespan and most worry-free operation?
> Could my filter interfere with the fluid once it's dyed?
> -Zepp


I don't know a ton about Ice Dragon. I know that Mayhem's Pastel is a collaboration between Mayhem & Ice Dragon though. Ice Dragon is supposedly really potent. I only know about it what i've seen people say on OCN. But Pastel is a Dilluted form of Ice Dragon for a reason. Not sure if i'd use something known for being extra potent with Nickel Plated Blocks. I'd choose Pastel.

Also AFAIK, out of all the dyed coolants, Pastel is the one that can be run the longest straight without flushing.

Dye's don't clog anything (Aside from maybe Aurora which is intentionally like that). The particles are way too small, so it depends on your tubing. If you use acrylic or neoprene you should be fine. Plasticizer is what would clog it, but that's also why you have the filter. It's there to get clogged and then be cleaned.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I didn't necessarily mean the pond pump. I'm probly just gonna hook the filter up from time to
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> time. If you meant your 35x2, it's already flowing through it. I don't see the difference with hooking up an inline filter or hooking up your external filter from time to time, other than the external filter will do a better job of getting rid of the stuff you don't want.
> 
> It would probly work best if you have the QDC's coming from the outlet of your pump and inlet of your res. That way it'll still drain your res and filter everything out and your external filter will become the res during the flush. At least that seems to make sense in my brain right now, haven't given it alot of thought just yet LOLLLL
> I still got a ways to go with my build before i gotta focus on that aspect
> 
> Edit: Actually scratch that. That would make no sense. That wouldn't feed back to your pump.












I think you just stumbled across something. The mini GE style you linked above could pretty much serve as a reservoir depending on it's volume.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> lol nice vid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you mind me asking what size/style fittings you used and what size tubing? I like the compact size of everything.


Thanks, it's 12/10mm tube with Bitspower c47 fittings.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> lol, perfect intro, and a spectacular build. Nice work.
> 
> I'm confused about the reservoirs though....is the water running down the outside of those metal rods? It looks really cool.
> 
> 
> 
> If I am not mistaken those are the "Aqualis", aquacomputer reservoirs with the fountain effect build in it.
Click to expand...

Yes if you hook the res up with the middle inlet you will have a fountain effect.


----------



## wermad

Damn, these cougars are super quiet







. They will start up at 4.8v making them a nice pair with my Mix2 controller.


----------



## Pimphare

Well fellas, I'm glad to say that I have finally achieved my goal in successfully putting together my first custom water loop with good results. After some trial and error I got both GPUs pegged at roughly the same temp now. Actually my top card stays about 0.5 - 1 degree Celsius cooler. I ran Valley Benchmark a moment ago to get things ramped up a bit and my top card read 37-38C while my bottom card read 38C on the highest end of temps. Not sure exactly what the precise room temperature is but I have the thermostat set to 72 degrees Fahrenheit or 22 degrees Celsius.

Time to get another beer and rock this thing! Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and wisdom!


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


looks good, but i think MORE green


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Well fellas, I'm glad to say that I have finally achieved my goal in successfully putting together my first custom water loop with good results. After some trial and error I got both GPUs pegged at roughly the same temp now. Actually my top card stays about 0.5 - 1 degree Celsius cooler. I ran Valley Benchmark a moment ago to get things ramped up a bit and my top card read 37-38C while my bottom card read 38C on the highest end of temps. Not sure exactly what the precise room temperature is but I have the thermostat set to 72 degrees Fahrenheit or 22 degrees Celsius.
> 
> Time to get another beer and rock this thing! Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and wisdom!


Really happy you got it all sorted out,what was causing the higher temps on one of the gpu's ?. So when is your next upgrade







....


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> looks good, but i think MORE green


Hehe, I am surprise the radiator is not painted green.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> It reminds me of Twizzlers. The kind you can pull apart


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That braiding is absolutely sexy!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah fittings are a pain. Especially if you decide you want to go a new aesthetic route for a re-build. I wish I could take advantage of the marketplace here, because re-selling a bunch of fittings on eBay is probably more trouble than it's worth.
> 
> 
> 
> All right guys start repping poor Anoxy more...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eBay can be all right though there's the 10% final value fee to consider. Huge user base though...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah @Jameswalt1
> & @Seanimus
> both have recently made me start thinking how i can fit a vertical mounted res in my rig for that fountain effect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Yeah and Darlene made one as some may have missed. She posted again fairly recently*.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah and Darlene made one as some may have missed. She posted again fairly recently.
> 
> 
> 
> *Yeah, i saw her post that in here recently. It wasn't a whole lotta detail though. I was really curious too because it looked like it was horizontal.
> *Probly the only reason i didn't go with an Aqualis for my build is because none of the extra functions will work if you mount it horizontal.
> 
> ~snip~
Click to expand...

I actually posted a "How To" for the light tube mod quite a while back in this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/42820

I may have posted a "How To" for the jet tube mod here as well, but I couldn't find it, so I'll link to where I have it in the build log.

As updated information;

Fortunately, it is a lot easier to do either mods now, since EK and E22 12mm tubing is so available.

You have to use C47's for the mod because of their smaller size.

When I originally did the mods, I had to bore C47's out to 1/2" because there was no metric tubing available to most of us back then.

While I had the reservoirs in a horizontal plane, and drilled my jet tubes to yield an effect to work with that layout, . .

The mod can just as easily be done with a vertical res, where you'd drill the tube differently to effect your choice of effects.

Just leaving the internal end plug off, would give a fountain effect.

The concept is wide open to individual experimentation so far as how you wish to drill the jet tube in a vertical res setup for your own unique effect.

Here's the link to the "How To", you'll notice that the light tube mod has already been done to that res, so the parts for it are the extra bits you see on the end caps:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/380#post_19201630

I'd like to see some one have a go with this mod.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Awesome. Thanks for linking those. I'm gonna read through both =)


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, these cougars are super quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They will start up at 4.8v making them a nice pair with my Mix2 controller.


Indeed, I have 28 of them going into my Cube and they really are whisper quiet.


----------



## Beliar

Joining the club with the custom loop i've finished yesterday. Everything in R4


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, these cougars are super quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They will start up at 4.8v making them a nice pair with my Mix2 controller.


Yes they are. Too bad the coupon is expired, they just bumped up the price to 24.99! I was thinking of getting one more just in case I can fit a push/pull 140mm rad.


----------



## GhostDog99

here are 2 better pictures of my rig

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/P1000211.jpg.html

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/P10002182.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Indeed, I have 28 of them going into my Cube and they really are whisper quiet.


Awesome, sub'd to your monster build








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yes they are. Too bad the coupon is expired, they just bumped up the price to 24.99! I was thinking of getting one more just in case I can fit a push/pull 140mm rad.


I was thinking of getting a couple more as backup, so that sucks







. Well, all tested fine and I also tested a set which places the chassis upwards. Nothing different then having it face down







. Top and bottom rad/fans will intake and front rad/fans will exhaust.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> here are 2 better pictures of my rig


Backyard porn.. nice


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Backyard porn.. nice


ya lol needed the light for my crappie iPhone or the pictures really come out bad


----------



## Ovrclck

I have a crazy idea. Is it possible to fit Aquacomputer Aqualis onto a mcp35x2?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I have a crazy idea. Is it possible to fit Aquacomputer Aqualis onto a mcp35x2?


using a male-male connector I would say yes...

something like this?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11882/ex-tub-732/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Male_to_Male_Rotary_Extender_BP-MBRG.html?id=izzbuqvB&mv_pc=1217


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I have a crazy idea. Is it possible to fit Aquacomputer Aqualis onto a mcp35x2?


Yes,buy the DDC version. the 35X is just a PWM controlled 18w DDC.

You will void your warranty with Swiftech tho.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> using a male-male connector I would say yes...
> 
> something like this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11882/ex-tub-732/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Male_to_Male_Rotary_Extender_BP-MBRG.html?id=izzbuqvB&mv_pc=1217


Oh yeah, I have a few of those. I guess I wasn't looking at the correct version.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,buy the DDC version. the 35X is just a PWM controlled 18w DDC.
> 
> You will void your warranty with Swiftech tho.


Oh that's why, I was looking at the D5 variants.

I know it works with the regular 35x but not x2

To help clarify, is there an adapter to fit the res ontop of this?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> here are 2 better pictures of my rig


Very nice. And that must not be NY.


----------



## wermad




----------



## SinatraFan

Looking good wermad


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Very nice. And that must not be NY.


lol not that is Israel PC

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/P10002182.jpg.html

and this is my NY PC

http://s213.photobucket.com/user/mhkushi/media/900x900px-LL-b10cc179_IMG_7129.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Looking good wermad


I like the little rubber pads on the screw holes. Really well made fans and they're gorgeous after starring at them for a while







.

How does the 120mm compare to the 140mm?

Crossing fingers new case arrives tomorrow to get the rads and fans in. Still, no mb and cpu yet


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How does the 120mm compare to the 140mm?


They are pretty much identical except for their size. Same whisper quiet function as well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> They are pretty much identical except for their size. Same whisper quiet function as well.


Kewl









Leds are bright at full speed but most likely I'm planing to run them at 5v or 7v on the controller (and it lowers the brightness. They're not annoyingly bright since the darker frame and colored blades to quell some of it (like my old R4s). I have one more fan for intake on the rear of the case. Gonna be lots of positive air pressure







.


----------



## SinatraFan

I almost went with the TH10 as well, but decided to do a custom mod build first before I take the plunge for a CL case. I will be watching your build wermad


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leds are bright at full speed but most likely I'm planing to run them at 5v or 7v on the controller (and it lowers the brightness. They're not annoyingly bright since the darker frame and colored blades to quell some of it (like my old R4s). I have one more fan for intake on the rear of the case. Gonna be lots of positive air pressure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I somehow got the deal of a lifetime... Newegg had a special going on cougar fans 40% off. Eventually it was reduced to 5 per customer, but I managed to order 28 of them on a single order. Saved $224! And now I have my fans for the next build as well... a horizontal mobo HAF-X cube


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I somehow got the deal of a lifetime... Newegg had a special going on cougar fans 40% off. Eventually it was reduced to 5 per customer, but I managed to order 28 of them on a single order. Saved $224! And now I have my fans for the next build as well... a horizontal mobo HAF-X cube


Yup, same here. I got my order in before they put the limit on. Saved ~$120. I did pay Cali tax but I opted for free shipping. Since they're in Socal too, I got them in a few days (so its like paying for 1-2-day shipping







).


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Really happy you got it all sorted out,what was causing the higher temps on one of the gpu's ?. So when is your next upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


Poor contact was the issue. It may have been caused by too thick of thermal pads. I used the pads that came with the blocks so I didn't have any others to test on it. I just sanded down the screw stand-offs on the block with a dremel a tad to bring the gpu die closer to the block cooling surface. The card temp then lowered from 80's C to 30's C during a Valley Benchmark run.







I'll be adding another SSD and RAM soon. Still gotta do some sleeving and cable management too. I also want to make a bigger side panel window more like the 750D and possible do some acrylic mobo tray work to clean things up. Might even do a little bit of painting.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leds are bright at full speed but most likely I'm planing to run them at 5v or 7v on the controller (and it lowers the brightness. They're not annoyingly bright since the darker frame and colored blades to quell some of it (like my old R4s). I have one more fan for intake on the rear of the case. Gonna be lots of positive air pressure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I was thinking of possibly wiring up the leds to a separate switch to that I can turn them on and off at will.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I somehow got the deal of a lifetime... Newegg had a special going on cougar fans 40% off. Eventually it was reduced to 5 per customer, but I managed to order 28 of them on a single order. Saved $224! And now I have my fans for the next build as well... a horizontal mobo HAF-X cube


I only bought 8 so my savings weren't as deep. I think it came out to 10 dollars for the 120mm and 11 for the 140mm.


----------



## SinatraFan

seems they may have oversold at newegg... they jacked the price up to $23 now! WOW


----------



## GoLDii3

Excuse me.

Even if i have a CLC,may i ask how often should i clean the radiator? Been like 4 months i dont touch it.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> Excuse me.
> 
> Even if i have a CLC,may i ask how often should i clean the radiator? Been like 4 months i dont touch it.


I would only clean a.rad if its really dusty, because.that can affect performance....


----------



## Pimphare

Hey guys, just got my system up and running last night and I'm having some noise issues. It'll be quiet for a moment and then it sound's like chicken frying in a pan. When I tilt the computer to the side and hold it in that position, it stays quite with only a small trickling sound. I understand that I still have air in the loop, but was wondering if anyone had some input on what I can try? Do I have a turbulence problem? Would putting a piece of acrylic tubing inside of the reservoir for the return line going into the top help?



I have a barb inside of the res at the top to help it shoot a straight stream rather than splattering.


----------



## sebar

Seems to me that there is a lot of air in the system that needs to work its way out. Just give it a day and see if things quiet down.


----------



## Pimphare

Okay. My wife was asking me a few minutes ago "is it always going to make that sound?" No dear, I'm working on it..


----------



## sebar

Once all the air is out she will be asking you "is this thing even on?".


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hey guys, just got my system up and running last night and I'm having some noise issues. It'll be quiet for a moment and then it sound's like chicken frying in a pan. When I tilt the computer to the side and hold it in that position, it stays quite with only a small trickling sound. I understand that I still have air in the loop, but was wondering if anyone had some input on what I can try? Do I have a turbulence problem? Would putting a piece of acrylic tubing inside of the reservoir for the return line going into the top help?
> 
> I have a barb inside of the res at the top to help it shoot a straight stream rather than splattering.


As Sebar says, just give it some time to see if the air works its way out. I would also add that based on your configuration it appears you may have a vortex issue, unless there is something stopping that by the pump intake (I can't quite make out if there is anything there or not).

This isn't a huge deal, but it just makes bleeding a pain in the ass as the vortex keeps sucking air into the pump/system.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Okay. My wife was asking me a few minutes ago "is it always going to make that sound?" No dear, I'm working on it..


If there coolant is returning into the top and splashing down into the res, it will likely stay making SOME noise, a tube from the top of res going to below the fluid is really the only way to stop that "fountain noise".


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I would only clean a.rad if its really dusty, because.that can affect performance....


Yeah,exactly for that reason,otherwise why would i need to clean it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got a new forum sig....and this forum doesnt allow them....


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If there coolant is returning into the top and splashing down into the res, it will likely stay making SOME noise, a tube from the top of res going to below the fluid is really the only way to stop that "fountain noise".


I wish I had ordered an extra fitting for this. By the time I thought about it, my last order had already shipped.







Oh well, I still have some unfinished business/things to order.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Once all the air is out she will be asking you "is this thing even on?".


That's what I'm talking about!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> As Sebar says, just give it some time to see if the air works its way out. I would also add that based on your configuration it appears you may have a vortex issue, unless there is something stopping that by the pump intake (I can't quite make out if there is anything there or not).
> 
> This isn't a huge deal, but it just makes bleeding a pain in the ass as the vortex keeps sucking air into the pump/system.


Yeah, I can see air bubbles being sucked into the pump. there are bubbles twirling around inside of the reservoir.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I somehow got the deal of a lifetime... Newegg had a special going on cougar fans 40% off. Eventually it was reduced to 5 per customer, but I managed to order 28 of them on a single order. Saved $224! And now I have my fans for the next build as well... a horizontal mobo HAF-X cube


Oooo, horizontal Haf-X cube. I got see how that turns out. Currently having fun painting and modding my Haf X.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Got a few minor goodies....

https://imageshack.com/i/n9kdwuj

https://imageshack.com/i/nptvg6j

Also would love to know how to work out my delta,XSPC sensor is saying 29.9c and room temp is 26c....


----------



## pc-illiterate

if that xspc sensor is accurate and the 26*C ambient is accurate, 4*C delta.
water temp minus ambient temp = water to air delta


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Also would love to know how to work out my delta,XSPC sensor is saying 29.9c and room temp is 26c....


It's just water temp minus room temp.

Those things can be inaccurate. If you switch your rig on first thing in the morning, compare what it says to your room's thermostat, and see if there is much of a difference.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> if that xspc sensor is accurate and the 26*C ambient is accurate, 4*C delta.
> water temp minus ambient temp = water to air delta


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's just water temp minus room temp.Thx for the heads up....
> 
> Those things can be inaccurate. If you switch your rig on first thing in the morning, compare what it says to your room's thermostat, and see if there is much of a difference.


The differnce is about 3c...

OK,i should have asked this b4,is the delta take when the pc is idle or when gaming....?


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> The differnce is about 3c...
> 
> OK,i should have asked this b4,is the delta take when the pc is idle or when gaming....?


Sorry to butt in but I would think that load temps would provide a better data point.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah aint nobody curr about idle temps! Load that sucker up and lets see the water temps then!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> Sorry to butt in but I would think that load temps would provide a better data point.


Thx for butting in







Information was what i seeked and you gave me just that....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah aint nobody curr about idle temps! Load that sucker up and lets see the water temps then!


Loaded up metro Last Light and my ambient is 28c and water temps 37.5 c,so i'm just about 9.5c delta T with fans running at full speed (corsair SP's)....


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/nptvg6j


You've done a great job at putting your system together. Nice choice of parts for the color scheme.







Your rig







's my rig.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx for butting in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Information was what i seeked and you gave me just that....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loaded up metro Last Light and my ambient is 28c and water temps 37.5 c,so i'm just about 9.5c delta T with fans running at full speed (corsair SP's)....


I'd use benching programs or burn tests over just a game. Sometimes (often) games don't 100% load everything 100% of the time.

Or run a 100% cpu and 100% gpu fold for awhile is a good test too


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You've done a great job at putting your system together. Nice choice of parts for the color scheme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 's my rig.


Thx mate,i really like you rig and the color scheme to,not to mention the hard acrylic....I really want to go that route but i think if i've spent enogh money on this rig now







May wait til september and make it a birthday present for myself,but knowing me i just may do it sooner than later....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd use benching programs or burn tests over just a game. Sometimes (often) games don't 100% load everything 100% of the time.
> 
> Or run a 100% cpu and 100% gpu fold for awhile is a good test too


I dn't fold and Metro tends to push my system more than even a valley run,will try an intel burn test or aida 64 and see what it is then....

Aida 64 15 minute run 100% Gpu and Cpu test....Gpu's 49c,Cpu 79~77~74~77....Water temps 39.9c ambient 29c,room widows closed with just the bedroom door open,with windows open i can see between 2-3c temp drop depending on this summer weather....


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Seriously...and extra props Pimphare for going acrylic plus two GPUs in what I'm pretty sure you said is your first loop. Some people are 'better with their hands' and what not than others and/or have a workshop (or maybe you're a plumber or something heh) but still...

I think I'm happy with old skool tubing.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Seriously...and extra props Pimphare for going acrylic plus two GPUs in what I'm pretty sure you said is your first loop. Some people are 'better with their hands' and what not than others and/or have a workshop (or maybe you're a plumber or something heh) but still...
> 
> I think I'm happy with old skool tubing.


Thanks man! I was nervous about using acrylic in my first water loop. Believe me, I wrecked some tubing too! I wish I did have a workshop. I have a garage with a bunch of mess in it right now. lol


----------



## smoke420

Got my enthoo primo today and the front panel was broke. Not sure I trust it now. Newegg reviews show similar problems.
Is there another inexpensive case that hold that much gear?
I run 2x 360, 240, and120 rads.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Got my enthoo primo today and the front panel was broke. Not sure I trust it now. Newegg reviews show similar problems.
> Is there another inexpensive case that hold that much gear?
> I run 2x 360, 240, and120 rads.


I'm not meaning to sound rude, but why look for cheap, why not look for quality instead? Granted, quality isn't usually cheap, but I'm assuming you didn't go for cheap on the rest of the build, why start with the most visible part??


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'm not meaning to sound rude, but why look for cheap, why not look for quality instead? Granted, quality isn't usually cheap, but I'm assuming you didn't go for cheap on the rest of the build, why start with the most visible part??


I agree with you 100% but I'm on a budget. I did get most of my water cooling equipment second hand for cheap but wanted a new case. The Enthoo primo was the only case I could find at a reasonable price, that could fit all my gear stock. I was just looking for suggestions in a place I knew there would be a lot of water coolers. If I could afford a case labs case, I wouldn't have asked.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> I agree with you 100% but I'm on a budget. I did get most of my water cooling equipment second hand for cheap but wanted a new case. The Enthoo primo was the only case I could find at a reasonable price, that could fit all my gear stock. I was just looking for suggestions in a place I knew there would be a lot of water coolers. If I could afford a case labs case, I wouldn't have asked.


Sorry, I was keying on the word cheap, where I should have been thinking inexpensive, what price range are you trying look at?? Since the primo is 220+$ am I to assume that's the area to be in??


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Sorry, I was keying on the word cheap, where I should have been thinking inexpensive, what price range are you trying look at?? Since the primo is 220+$ am I to assume that's the area to be in??


No problem. Yeah,trying to stay in the $250 range.


----------



## Anoxy

I feel like there isn't much else in that price range with the capacity you want, unless you look into building a custom pedestal of some sort, but maybe I'm wrong.

I'd say that's a lot of the reason there has been so much hype around the Enthoo Primo.

Perhaps save your money a little longer and move into a Caselabs? It seems to be worth the wait, especially since you can grow into it, expand, and it will last you a long time.


----------



## SeeThruHead

You probably don't need that much rad. Everything but the 240 will fit in an NZXT h440 when it comes out.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

That might be my next case. Price sure is right and it looks very interesting overall.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Got my enthoo primo today and the front panel was broke. Not sure I trust it now. Newegg reviews show similar problems.
> Is there another inexpensive case that hold that much gear?
> I run 2x 360, 240, and120 rads.


The corsair 750D if you dnt mind loosing the 5.24 bay,with the bay in you could still run 1x360 (push/pull depending on rad size) 2x240 front and bottom (bottom in push or pull) front in push/pull....


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Anoxy

Is the fountain effect in those reservoirs noisy at all?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is the fountain effect in those reservoirs noisy at all?


Not in the slightest. Obviously depends on the pump speed too, but my 4 pumps at 60% are creating very little noise at all. Overall the system is extremely quiet.


----------



## skupples

My 35x2 is @ full speed when set to "60%" on mobo, & aquearo.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My 35x2 is @ full speed when set to "60%" on mobo, & aquearo.


Mine definitely are not at full speed, I can tell for sure because they are noisy at boot but after passing the bios they quiet way down. I'm just using a swiftech pwm splitter.


----------



## skupples

That's very interesting. I know @It Diva did allot of testing with them, & pretty much came up with the same results i'm finding with mine. 4 of those pumps @ full speed in that loop would cause more of a fire hose effect than a water fall effect.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's very interesting. I know @It Diva did allot of testing with them, & pretty much came up with the same results i'm finding with mine. 4 of those pumps @ full speed in that loop would cause more of a fire hose effect than a water fall effect.


Yeah, at power up the water is shooting into the res like crazy, but then it changes to the nice trickle you see in the video I posted.


----------



## Anoxy

At the same fan speeds, would you say an RX360 or a 240 Monsta would perform better?


----------



## Forceman

RX360. More frontal area beats a thicker rad (within reason) .


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> RX360. More frontal area beats a thicker rad (within reason) .


And RX360 definitely shouldn't be considered anywhere near a thin rad. I'd say more frontal area always wins no matter what. Even 360 ST30 or EX360 or GTS 360 would all beat any 240 as long as you grab the right one for your build. The only thing about thinner rads is they're generally optimized for either slower fans or faster fans, where thicker rads can handle both.


----------



## Anoxy

Sweet, thanks both of you. Perhaps I'll just rock two of those new RX360 V3s then.


----------



## kpoeticg

Sounds like a good setup to me. I'm interested to see how the new RX's with the split fins workout.


----------



## Anoxy

Those HWLabs SR-1 360 look pretty nice as well. Tough call between the two, especially considering the shoddy XSPC customer service I've been reading about here.


----------



## kpoeticg

You really shouldn't need cust. service on a rad. Generally you'd be sending back to the reseller because it comes damaged or you'll have it until you want something else

The SR-1 is more similar to the UT60 or the old RX. The new RX seems to be more similar to the Black Ice GTX. I'd proby choose either UT60 or RX because of the extra ports. I like the Alphacool rads for all the extras like the screw plate and the extra ports. Especially the 7th port on UT60's and Monsta's. The SR-1's are superior in build quality from what i hear, but the extra ports come in real handy.

If i were in your shoes i'd be trying to choose between RX and UT60. RX being higher fin density.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Got a question for anyone who's had experience with both regular tubing and hard acrylic,is the hard acrylic more/less likely to leak for a first time build or its just about the same ?....Also someone mentioned to me if i'm going hard acrylic i should get (silicone rings) not sure why (can someone explain this) and does it look like....


----------



## SinatraFan

I wish XSPC made a block for my DCII cards. I just love the way those blocks look!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My 35x2 is @ full speed when set to "60%" on mobo, & aquearo.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine definitely are not at full speed, I can tell for sure because they are noisy at boot but after passing the bios they quiet way down. I'm just using a swiftech pwm splitter.
Click to expand...

You are running yours from the CPU header's PWM signal for control then I assume?

Keep us posted on how you get them setup once the honeymoon period with the newness is over.

You may want to just set the pumps to a constant speed in bios or on a fan control program so that constant speed changes don't drive you nuts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's very interesting. I know @It Diva did allot of testing with them, & pretty much came up with the same results i'm finding with mine. 4 of those pumps @ full speed in that loop would cause more of a fire hose effect than a water fall effect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's very interesting. I know @It Diva did allot of testing with them, & pretty much came up with the same results i'm finding with mine. 4 of those pumps @ full speed in that loop would cause more of a fire hose effect than a water fall effect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, at power up the water is shooting into the res like crazy, but then it changes to the nice trickle you see in the video I posted.
Click to expand...

I've not had one of those reservoirs to take apart and look at, but I'd bet that not all the returning coolant is actually going up the pipe.

I'd expect that the greater percentage of it is returned well below the coolant surface level and only a portion becomes the waterfall, otherwise, there'd be just too much aeration taking place most of the time.

For some reason, all the interest in the waterfall effect has me seriously looking at playing around a bit with some different jet tube hole patterns with it in a vertical res.

I've got my 24V powered D5S pump to experiment with, might be rather interesting









Darlene


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Got a question for anyone who's had experience with both regular tubing and hard acrylic,is the hard acrylic more/less likely to leak for a first time build or its just about the same ?....Also someone mentioned to me if i'm going hard acrylic i should get (silicone rings) not sure why (can someone explain this) and does it look like....


To your first question.. its kind of apples to orange comparison. Anything can leak (and thats why you leak test) but I wouldnt say one is anymore likely then the other. I had a leak with my hard acrylic but that was because one of my tubes wasnt passed the second o-ring. As long as they are passed the second oring it wont be a problem (bp c47s).

No idea what silicone rings are. I just used c47s, acryling tubing, heat gun, and the rubber piece to go inside of the tube while I was bending it.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Got my enthoo primo today and the front panel was broke. Not sure I trust it now. Newegg reviews show similar problems.
> Is there another inexpensive case that hold that much gear?
> I run 2x 360, 240, and120 rads.


If something shows up damaged from Newegg. Return it. Contact customer service, they'll send you a shipping label for the damaged case and a new case.


----------



## CroakV

I need help folks. I need somebody to talk me out of replacing my perfectly fine Corsair 540 with a Caselabs M8 (along with shipping to Europe) for no other reason than I want it.


----------



## Zamoldac

Do it!


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I need help folks. I need somebody to talk me out of replacing my perfectly fine Corsair 540 with a Caselabs M8 (along with shipping to Europe) for no other reason than I want it.


Do you have a significant other? They can do a far better job at this than we can LMAO


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I need help folks. I need somebody to talk me out of replacing my perfectly fine Corsair 540 with a Caselabs M8 (along with shipping to Europe) for no other reason than I want it.


You should totally get the M8. You NEED it. IT needs you!


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Thanks man! I was nervous about using acrylic in my first water loop. Believe me, I wrecked some tubing too! I wish I did have a workshop. I have a garage with a bunch of mess in it right now. lol


Dude I build in my one bedroom apartment on my desk... My girlfriend has been nagging me for months to finish the build and clean up my ****. I've really taken my time with this build so shes understandably upset. Anyway, having a garage to make a mess out of would be awesome.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> And RX360 definitely shouldn't be considered anywhere near a thin rad. I'd say more frontal area always wins no matter what. Even 360 ST30 or EX360 or GTS 360 would all beat any 240 as long as you grab the right one for your build. The only thing about thinner rads is they're generally optimized for either slower fans or faster fans, where thicker rads can handle both.


Agreed. Except I wouldn't include the GTS. It would only perform better if you were using high speed fans. It is a terrible radiator if you care at noise even in the slightest.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You are running yours from the CPU header's PWM signal for control then I assume?
> 
> Keep us posted on how you get them setup once the honeymoon period with the newness is over.
> 
> You may want to just set the pumps to a constant speed in bios or on a fan control program so that constant speed changes don't drive you nuts.
> 
> I've not had one of those reservoirs to take apart and look at, but I'd bet that not all the returning coolant is actually going up the pipe.
> 
> I'd expect that the greater percentage of it is returned well below the coolant surface level and only a portion becomes the waterfall, otherwise, there'd be just too much aeration taking place most of the time.
> 
> For some reason, all the interest in the waterfall effect has me seriously looking at playing around a bit with some different jet tube hole patterns with it in a vertical res.
> 
> I've got my 24V powered D5S pump to experiment with, might be rather interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


In my experience pumps almost always ramp up when using CPU_Header, even when set to a constant %. Rather annoying, it's why I went with the Aquaero.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I need help folks. I need somebody to talk me out of replacing my perfectly fine Corsair 540 with a Caselabs M8 (along with shipping to Europe) for no other reason than I want it.


NOT the right people and place...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You should totally get the M8. You NEED it. IT needs you!


LOL as I just said...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Dude I build in my one bedroom apartment on my desk... My girlfriend has been nagging me for months to finish the build and clean up my ****. I've really taken my time with this build so shes understandably upset. Anyway, having a garage to make a mess out of would be awesome.


I hear that noise. Literally and figuratively.


----------



## Trolle BE

im a thinking of replacing my 800d with something smaller(micro atx or mini itx)
i wanna do a sli with watercooled gpu's
so i think i will need atleast 480mm radspace(if i am thinking correctly that is)
any got any ideas wich case i could get?

thanks in advance


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> im a thinking of replacing my 800d with something smaller(micro atx or mini itx)
> i wanna do a sli with watercooled gpu's
> so i think i will need atleast 480mm radspace(if i am thinking correctly that is)
> any got any ideas wich case i could get?
> 
> thanks in advance


I dont think you will be running sli with an itx system so you should focus on m-atx. There are a lot of good m-atx cases but you may need to do some modding on some. Take a look at the Fractal Arc Mini or the Corsair 350D.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> One of the most attractive things about the Phobya Inline Sensors is that the Matte Black versions are Brass. No Nickel.
> Also, the Inline Sensors have no flow restricition. Any temp sensor that has a probe sticking out of it is gonna cause at least a little restriction. I have 6 of the Phobya Inline Sensors myself
> 
> THESE are the ones i have that are only Brass


OK I'm installing a couple of these inline sensors this morning (after seeing your suggestion I bought two of them) and when screwing them in as soon as they start to tighten up just a little the outside breaks free and spins. Is this your experience with these? I'm hoping it's supposed to do that so I can get the wires on it to face the most convenient direction. Either that or I just broke both of mine and neither seemed to get particularly tight before the outside broke free. I guess, if they aren't broken, they'll finish tightening up whenever I get around to screwing in the fittings into them. Might be tricky to ever unscrew them now though.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

And yeah I love all the ports on the UT60 and UT45 (six) too and such has given me many nice options for tubing runs&#8230;but in my case needing a 2mm high end cap on the bottom my single 140mm UT60 (upright on bottom of case) is making it *just* not line up perfectly with my GPU outlet port. The tube is damn near straight&#8230;but not quite. And it would be if not for the bleed port damnit!

I thought about using a blue rubber boob (hey thats what I call them) down there instead and like some highly adhesive tape to make sure it stays in but probably a bad idea.

Edit: lol I originally typed "sure" as "surge"&#8230;hmm that might be a sign.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> I dont think you will be running sli with an itx system so you should focus on m-atx. There are a lot of good m-atx cases but you may need to do some modding on some. Take a look at the Fractal Arc Mini or the Corsair 350D.


I've run SLI in one ITX system, it's called a GTX690!!


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've run SLI in one ITX system, it's called a GTX690!!


True, running a dual GPU card is good for sli on an itx system but not to many people are doing that so I gave some good case options for m-atx plus there are not many options for itx case to support two 240 radiators without major modification.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> One of the most attractive things about the Phobya Inline Sensors is that the Matte Black versions are Brass. No Nickel.
> Also, the Inline Sensors have no flow restricition. Any temp sensor that has a probe sticking out of it is gonna cause at least a little restriction. I have 6 of the Phobya Inline Sensors myself
> 
> THESE are the ones i have that are only Brass
> 
> 
> 
> OK I'm installing a couple of these inline sensors this morning (after seeing your suggestion I bought two of them) and when screwing them in as soon as they start to tighten up just a little the outside breaks free and spins. Is this your experience with these? I'm hoping it's supposed to do that so I can get the wires on it to face the most convenient direction. Either that or I just broke both of mine and neither seemed to get particularly tight before the outside broke free. I guess, if they aren't broken, they'll finish tightening up whenever I get around to screwing in the fittings into them. Might be tricky to ever unscrew them now though.
Click to expand...

Phobya....says it all.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> True, running a dual GPU card is good for sli on an itx system but not to many people are doing that so I gave some good case options for m-atx plus there are not many options for itx case to support two 240 radiators without major modification.


Dude, I was just playing with you, not correcting/commenting on case selections. It was just a jab.


----------



## sebar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Dude, I was just playing with you, not correcting/commenting on case selections. It was just a jab.


I took no offence


----------



## Jimhans1




----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> True, running a dual GPU card is good for sli on an itx system but not to many people are doing that so I gave some good case options for m-atx plus there are not many options for itx case to support two 240 radiators without major modification.


yeah m-atx sounds like the best choice now.
i just wanna get to 480mm radspace
if its 1x360 + 1x120mm or 4x120 i dont care


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> yeah m-atx sounds like the best choice now.
> i just wanna get to 480mm radspace
> if its 1x360 + 1x120mm or 4x120 i dont care


Arc Mini R2 is a great inexpensive option. 360 in the roof and 240 in the front.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You really shouldn't need cust. service on a rad. Generally you'd be sending back to the reseller because it comes damaged or you'll have it until you want something else
> 
> The SR-1 is more similar to the UT60 or the old RX. The new RX seems to be more similar to the Black Ice GTX. I'd proby choose either UT60 or RX because of the extra ports. I like the Alphacool rads for all the extras like the screw plate and the extra ports. Especially the 7th port on UT60's and Monsta's. The SR-1's are superior in build quality from what i hear, but the extra ports come in real handy.
> 
> If i were in your shoes i'd be trying to choose between RX and UT60. RX being higher fin density.


Yeah, UT60s are what I'm rocking right now. I just like the design and matte finish on the RX360s. I have one V2 RX360 already, but I wonder if it's worth it to replace it with a V3 and then grab another V3 on top of that?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> OK I'm installing a couple of these inline sensors this morning (after seeing your suggestion I bought two of them) and when screwing them in as soon as they start to tighten up just a little the outside breaks free and spins. Is this your experience with these? I'm hoping it's supposed to do that so I can get the wires on it to face the most convenient direction. Either that or I just broke both of mine and neither seemed to get particularly tight before the outside broke free. I guess, if they aren't broken, they'll finish tightening up whenever I get around to screwing in the fittings into them. Might be tricky to ever unscrew them now though.


Phobya's law of quality.

I would hook it up to your rad flusher system to see if it leaks.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OK I'm installing a couple of these inline sensors this morning (after seeing your suggestion I bought two of them) and when screwing them in as soon as they start to tighten up just a little the outside breaks free and spins. Is this your experience with these? I'm hoping it's supposed to do that so I can get the wires on it to face the most convenient direction. Either that or I just broke both of mine and neither seemed to get particularly tight before the outside broke free. I guess, if they aren't broken, they'll finish tightening up whenever I get around to screwing in the fittings into them. Might be tricky to ever unscrew them now though.


Definitely not. Did you tighten with a wrench? That definitely didn't happen with mine. I'd RMA immediately if i were you

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Phobya....says it all.


I don't know any other high flow temp sensors without Nickel in them. I really like those Phobya's, but i haven't had any break on me.

Didn't you just post the other day how Alphacool/Phobya/Aquatuning = same company?









I can't see myself grabbing any Phobya blocks, but i definitely use accessories from them like shrouds/grills/temp-sensors


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't know any other high flow temp sensors without Nickel in them. I really like those Phobya's, but i haven't had any break on me.
> Didn't you just post the other day how Alphacool/Phobya/Aquatuning = same company?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't see myself grabbing any Phobya blocks, but i definitely use accessories from them like shrouds/grills/temp-sensors


The radiators come from the same OEM.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The radiators come from the same OEM.


I'm pretty sure everything comes from the same OEM because they're different branches of the same company


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I was thinking of possibly wiring up the leds to a separate switch to that I can turn them on and off at will.
> I only bought 8 so my savings weren't as deep. I think it came out to 10 dollars for the 120mm and 11 for the 140mm.


I had to spread my taxes so mine came out ~$12 a piece.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> seems they may have oversold at newegg... they jacked the price up to $23 now! WOW


Yeah, I saw that. Demand goes up newegg is ready to rocket the price








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new forum sig....and this forum doesnt allow them....


Nice banner. Is that for this thread or just wanting to use it for your personal sig?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Dude I build in my one bedroom apartment on my desk... My girlfriend has been nagging me for months to finish the build and clean up my ****. I've really taken my time with this build so shes understandably upset. Anyway, having a garage to make a mess out of would be awesome.


That would be a fairly difficult task for me in such tight quarters. I like to make messes and leave them until all is finished. I suck at housekeeping!


----------



## kpoeticg

I build in my one bedroom apartment too. It's gotten really bad lately. Especially when i extend the tripod and open the white umbrellas. You'd all laugh at me if you had a video of me trying to get good pics in my apt


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I build in my one bedroom apartment too. It's gotten really bad lately. Especially when i extend the tripod and open the white umbrellas. You'd all laugh at me if you had a video of me trying to get good pics in my apt


Getting a good visual of this right now!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I was thinking of possibly wiring up the leds to a separate switch to that I can turn them on and off at will.
> I only bought 8 so my savings weren't as deep. I think it came out to 10 dollars for the 120mm and 11 for the 140mm.
> 
> 
> 
> I had to spread my taxes so mine came out ~$12 a piece.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> seems they may have oversold at newegg... they jacked the price up to $23 now! WOW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, I saw that. Demand goes up newegg is ready to rocket the price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new forum sig....and this forum doesnt allow them....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice banner. Is that for this thread or just wanting to use it for your personal sig?
Click to expand...

Personal sig...OCN says 'das ist verboten',no pics in sig,no MOTM nom if you post on other sites,no sponsored builds without paying....all of this.._verboten!!_


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Getting a good visual of this right now!


Yeah, i move my camera an umbrella light starts tipping over, i move the camera back and the other light tips. I go grab the light and knock a box off another box with my a**. Pick up the box and knock something off the table. It's hectic









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Personal sig...OCN says 'das ist verboten',no pics in sig,no MOTM nom if you post on other sites,no sponsored builds without paying....all of this..verboten!!


TOO MANY RULES


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Getting a good visual of this right now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, i move my camera an umbrella light starts tipping over, i move the camera back and the other light tips. I go grab the light and knock a box off another box with my a**. Pick up the box and knock something off the table. It's hectic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Personal sig...OCN says 'das ist verboten',no pics in sig,no MOTM nom if you post on other sites,no sponsored builds without paying....all of this.._verboten!!_
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> TOO MANY RULES
Click to expand...

KING IGUANA MAY HAVE SOMETHING TO SAY ON THIS.

© Stren


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Personal sig...OCN says 'das ist verboten',no pics in sig,no MOTM nom if you post on other sites,no sponsored builds without paying....all of this.._verboten!!_


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering if I can still use this radiator or not. will it have performance issue?

will mcr220 vs. bend fin st30? which one is better? lol


----------



## VSG

Most of it looks fine, see if you can "fix" the bent fins. It shouldn't take a lot of effort.


----------



## wermad

Fins can be bent back into place w/ a thin flat head screw driver. As long as the channels and end tanks weren't damage, its fine.


----------



## rickyman0319

how do I know if the channel or end tanks are damage?


----------



## kpoeticg

The channels are the metal "dividers" that the fins are connected to. The fins are just heatsinks and can easily be fixed (which you should DEFINITELY do), but if the channels that they're connected to have any kind of cracks in them, then it needs to be sealed. Same with the end tanks, if they're cracked water will leak.

You should be able to tell by looking at it, but running water through it will also reveal cracks.

Definitely fix those fins though


----------



## rickyman0319

I think I will just leaving as it is. I scare that I wil make it worst. maybe tonite I will put some distilled water to see if it has leak.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am wondering if I can still use this radiator or not. will it have performance issue?
> 
> will mcr220 vs. bend fin st30? which one is better? lol


Nope it's defective. Just send it to me. I'll dispose of it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure everything comes from the same OEM because they're different branches of the same company


Sooo Phobya gets all the "B" grade parts? Not really being serious but who knows...

I am well aware of oem-rebranding in general but the whole situation seems weird to me given the apparent differences in general quality.


----------



## kpoeticg

Dude, those fins are bad. Don't use it like that. Straighten the fins so you can get airflow. Either cut the ends off a q-tip and use the solid part or a toothpick or something like that

When i fixed the fins of the first Alphacool rad i got with bent fins i used the q-tip because i was scared of making it worse. Now i just use a flathead screwdriver or center punch or whatevers within arms reach. Fins are easy to fix. Just straighten em out so the fans can blow air through. It's not hard to straighten fins without hitting the channels. Sticking a small screwdriver in there will straighten it right out









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Sooo Phoybia gets all the "B" grade parts? Not really being serious but who knows...
> 
> I am well aware of oem-rebranding in general but the whole situation seems weird to me.


It's not weird at all. It's so common it's boring









It would be harder to think of an everyday household item that isn't sold the same way.

General Mills food, Viacom Media, Lexus/Toyota, Mercedes/Maybach, Acura/Honda

It's just how businesses operate.

I don't look at it as B-Grade parts. Lexus has more bells n whistles than toyota, but it's still the same car


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how do I know if the channel or end tanks are damage?


Fill it up w/ water ans seal the ports. if you see any leaks on the thin "channels" that run through the fins or the end tanks, its leaking. No leaks, its fine, just bend the fins back as best as possible and she's good


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It would be harder to think of an everyday household item that isn't sold the same way.
> General Mills food, Viacom Media, Lexus/Toyota, Mercedes/Maybach, Acura/Honda
> 
> It's just how businesses operate.
> I don't look at it as B-Grade parts. Lexus has more bells n whistles than toyota, but it's still the same car


That's true but Toyota doesn't have a reputation as low quality junk. It's just less expensive with fewer "bells and whistles" as you say. Phobya stuff seems to malfunction or physically break on a fairly regular basis compared to other brands from this "same OEM".


----------



## kpoeticg

It all depends what you buy and how much you're trying to save.

Sticking with the analogy, Phobya G.Changer is to UT60 as Toyota Avalon is to Lexus LS4**

Same rad, less bells and whistles.

But at the same time, buying a $20 Phobya pump to run your cooling system would be a mistake. You get what you pay for usually


----------



## stickg1

I bought two XSPC female-female adapters. Supposedly the same exact fitting, one of them the knurled part on the middle of the fitting is much more pronounced than the other. And on one of them the threads are all F'ed up and I can't get anything to screw into it. IDK if it's just bad luck or what, but next time I will spend the extra $3 for the Bitspower.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> That's true but Toyota doesn't have a reputation as low quality junk. It's just less expensive with fewer "bells and whistles" as you say. Phobya stuff seems to malfunction or physically break on a fairly regular basis compared to other brands from this "same OEM".


Just because they are sister companies, doesn't mean the parts are coming from the same OEM's, I'm sure some of the parts are cross compatible, but I would guess not all!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

If the threads are bad, that's RMA worthy. Sounds like some1 already RMA'd that one and you got sloppy seconds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just because they are sister companies, doesn't mean the parts are coming from the same OEM's, I'm sure some of the parts are cross compatible, but I would guess not all!!!


Phobya definitely sells the cheap garbage that Alphacool wouldn't wanna put their brand on, but i was just saying that it's not all garbage.

I would assume that most Phobya branded stuff that looks similar to an Alphacool product has the same internals. Same way i do with Toyota. But that doesn't mean that Lexus has an equivalent for every cheap model that Toyota carries.

Alright i'm dragging out the analogies. Sorry guys


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I bought two XSPC female-female adapters. Supposedly the same exact fitting, one of them the knurled part on the middle of the fitting is much more pronounced than the other. And on one of them the threads are all F'ed up and I can't get anything to screw into it. IDK if it's just bad luck or what, but next time I will spend the extra $3 for the Bitspower.


Did it come from FCPU or PPCS??


----------



## VSG

Going to guess PPC on that one.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Going to guess PPC on that one.


That was my thought too. From past experience.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Did it come from FCPU or PPCS??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Going to guess PPC on that one.


PPCs. I don't know why I didn't RMA it, never really thought about it. I wonder if it's too late? I got it a few weeks ago and just never really used it until the other day.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> PPCs. I don't know why I didn't RMA it, never really thought about it. I wonder if it's too late? I got it a few weeks ago and just never really used it until the other day.


Call Monday and talk to hank or duke, they will straighten it out!!


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't remember what the return window is. A cpl weeks will make it harder to convince that you didn't strip them yourself. It's worth an email though


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't remember what the return window is. A cpl weeks will make it harder to convince that you didn't strip them yourself. It's worth an email though


The way W/C builds go, people order stuff weeks, even months in advance, I'm sure they will help him.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i definitely concur. I preordered my RIVE BE with the first Newegg batch back in November. Just attempted to boot it the first time 2 days ago finally. Turns out my GPU was DOA, but luckily i've only had that for a cpl weeks. I woulda been screwed if it was the board









I've bought most of my cooling stuff so far in advance that by the time i'm using it i don't need it anymore because i've completely changed my plans =\


----------



## stickg1

I just tried it on a handful of fittings. Out of the 10 I tried, it worked for 40% of them. That's really weird.

I'll just eat this one. If I had gotten one of those dang $20 BP triple rotaries and the threads were messed up I would send it back. But $3, I'd have to like put it in a envelope, print something, go outside. Just sounds awful...


----------



## kpoeticg

LOLLLL


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I just tried it on a handful of fittings. Out of the 10 I tried, it worked for 40% of them. That's really weird.
> 
> I'll just eat this one. If I had gotten one of those dang $20 BP triple rotaries and the threads were messed up I would send it back. But $3, I'd have to like put it in a envelope, print something, go outside. Just sounds awful...


i had the same thing with XSPC F/F fitting. one side it threaded well and the other is not. some fittings will screw into the "bad" side and some won't. i thought it was me at first so i didn't return them. now i use them to throw at my cats when the go sniffing around my computer wondering what the water sound is. crazy cats, don't they know better


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> i had the same thing with XSPC F/F fitting. one side it threaded well and the other is not. some fittings will screw into the "bad" side and some won't. i thought it was me at first so i didn't return them. now i use them to throw at my cats when the go sniffing around my computer wondering what the water sound is. crazy cats, don't they know better


I've never been a big fan of XSPC stuff myself. Quality control seems very hit and miss......


----------



## stickg1

Yeah, I had actually bought it for something like this, to stick in the female end of my QDC when I'm draining. And evidently it works, so I guess it's not a total loss.



The other one has the weak knurled texture but the threads are fine. It's not easy to grip and tighten though because of the smoothed off grip. Basically these things suck and I definitely won't be buying anymore.

Side note: In that picture above, that QDC male fitting doesn't have an o-ring, it ripped. I tried a replacement o-ring that works on regular fittings but it's too fat for these QDCs and doesn't work. Anyone seen the QDC specific o-rings for sale anywhere?


----------



## VSG

Let me see what I can do, I still have some VL3Ns as you know and I will see if I match the O-rings used on those with ones I have in my O-ring collection.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I need help folks. I need somebody to talk me out of replacing my perfectly fine Corsair 540 with a Caselabs M8 (along with shipping to Europe) for no other reason than I want it.


Do it! Csae Labs is totally worth the shipping!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah i definitely concur. I preordered my RIVE BE with the first Newegg batch back in November. Just attempted to boot it the first time 2 days ago finally. Turns out my GPU was DOA, but luckily i've only had that for a cpl weeks. I woulda been screwed if it was the board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've bought most of my cooling stuff so far in advance that by the time i'm using it i don't need it anymore because i've completely changed my plans =\










Yep, I known the feeling. I do the same here with the "worsening" factor that parts tend to take 2 to 4 weeks to get down here so I really have to think ahead of time... Not always work well since by the time I am building I change my mind


----------



## joejoe69

Finished and running.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1463505/finished-neptune-2-0-reverse-polarity-nzxt-switch-810-reverse-atx-dwood-pedestal-build/0_50#post_21694402


----------



## VSG

Absolutely incredible!


----------



## kpoeticg

I love that build. Great pics!!! The video was awesome too =)


----------



## stickg1

That's just lovely!

I got a decent check this week. Made about 24 of these guys today for some custom cabinets and shelving I'm doing for a client. (still gotta be sanded, border detail routed, and painted). But man, this was a labor intensive design!



Anyway, got some dough in my pocket burning a hole! New case, another nice rad, case and PSU for my mATX multi-purpose machine I'm building. IDK, can't make up my mind. I better sleep on it...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Finished and running.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1463505/finished-neptune-2-0-reverse-polarity-nzxt-switch-810-reverse-atx-dwood-pedestal-build/0_50#post_21694402
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean build! Not a fan of all that DiNoc, but a clean build non the less.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm currently accepting donations


----------



## Ithanul

Now that is a beautiful rig.


----------



## Anoxy

Anyone know off the top of their head if the Alphacool logos on UT60s are removable? I know some of their rads don't come with logos, but a sticker pack instead, so I'm curious if the ones that do are just stickers than can be peeled off?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Anyone know off the top of their head if the Alphacool logos on UT60s are removable? I know some of their rads don't come with logos, but a sticker pack instead, so I'm curious if the ones that do are just stickers than can be peeled off?


Mine that I got about a few weeks ago from FCPU had the stickers (4 of them, not installed). And I have to say ... they are the coolest stickers I've seen (not that I use them). They're made of copper


----------



## kpoeticg

Pretty sure the ones that come with logo isn't a sticker. I could be wrong. I think all the new ones come with a sticker instead but older ones i think are paint and/or etching.

Can always paint the rad or wrap it in vinyl


----------



## nismoskyline

That Neptune build is truly a work of art, very well done


----------



## John Freeman

Hey guys I need soMe help. I just finished switching some tubes and turned on my PC after I was done it it worked fine. All of a sudden it bluescreened amd shut off. Now I can't boot into windows without bluescreen. I went into bios and it said CPU temp was 91c so idk what is going on. Help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> Hey guys I need soMe help. I just finished switching some tubes and turned on my PC after I was done it it worked fine. All of a sudden it bluescreened amd shut off. Now I can't boot into windows without bluescreen. I went into bios and it said CPU temp was 91c so idk what is going on. Help would be greatly appreciated


Are you sure your cpu block is seated properly? Are you sure the inlet is in the correct orientation on your loop?


----------



## John Freeman

Did not touch the CPU block at all. That stayed the same


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Mine that I got about a few weeks ago from FCPU had the stickers (4 of them, not installed). And I have to say ... they are the coolest stickers I've seen (not that I use them). They're made of copper


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Pretty sure the ones that come with logo isn't a sticker. I could be wrong. I think all the new ones come with a sticker instead but older ones i think are paint and/or etching.
> Can always paint the rad or wrap it in vinyl


Yeah, I'm slightly annoyed because one of my UT60s doesn't have a logo, just the stickers. And the other comes with a logo already on it.

I want them to be logoless as I don't care for branding...guess maybe I'll try scraping it off.


----------



## stickg1

So whos got a fatty build in a Corsair Air 540? Thinking getting one especially after all these reviews I've been reading about people's Primo showing up busted and clips snapping off by merely looking at them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I'm slightly annoyed because one of my UT60s doesn't have a logo, just the stickers. And the other comes with a logo already on it.
> 
> I want them to be logoless as I don't care for branding...guess maybe I'll try scraping it off.


All my UT60s come w/ the stickers (420 and two 280s). I won't be putting them on as well as I could care less of the gold logo.


----------



## Anoxy

Perhaps it's just the Monsta that comes with the logo already on it then. Come to think of it, I think my UT60 is the one with a sticker pack.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm pretty sure it's old vs new whether there's a sticker or a logo. I have some with logo and some with sticker and they range from ST30 to UT60. Pretty sure all the ones i bought months ago have logo's and all the newer ones have stickers


----------



## John Freeman

Seems like my CPU is overheating somehow . I will try reseating heatsink


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I assume the pump is on.


----------



## stickg1

The million dollar question, did you remove the sticker from the coldplate on the CPU block?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I assume the pump is on.


This....Check.if the pump is plugged in or even moving water, you could also check the pump header thats plugged into the mobo to see if its loose....


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The million dollar question, did you remove the sticker from the coldplate on the CPU block?


I think they said they were just switching some tubes, so I assume their system was working fine before that.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Anyone excited by the new Swiftech products at 2014's CES?


----------



## John Freeman

yea i fixed it. must have pushed the cpu block out of place while moving tubes in and out. pump still has lots of air in it though.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Finished and running.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1463505/finished-neptune-2-0-reverse-polarity-nzxt-switch-810-reverse-atx-dwood-pedestal-build/0_50#post_21694402
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is one sexy triple monitor setup!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Anyone excited by the new Swiftech products at 2014's CES?


I am. The H220X will make a nice intermediary setup when I build my next rig, since I won't be able to get all the shiny parts and watercooling. Once a proper watercooling loop is affordable, it'll go in my HTPC ^_^


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That is one sexy triple monitor setup!
> I am. The H220X will make a nice intermediary setup when I build my next rig, since I won't be able to get all the shiny parts and watercooling. Once a proper watercooling loop is affordable, it'll go in my HTPC ^_^


My exact plan exactly, I even sprung for the Maximus VI Gene now with the intention of a full on Haswell Extreme system afterwords. The old parts will go into a smaller CaseLabs MATX and my current SM8 will remain the power user system.


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Finished and running.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1463505/finished-neptune-2-0-reverse-polarity-nzxt-switch-810-reverse-atx-dwood-pedestal-build/0_50#post_21694402






Nice build bro. Love the way you implemented the drain port.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Anyone excited by the new Swiftech products at 2014's CES?


Not really.


----------



## Anoxy

My god, ordering parts is such a pain in the arse. I have to place orders at sidewinder, PPCs, _and_ FCPU because there are parts that each of them have and don't have








dat shipping

We need a watercooling Amazon


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i know what you mean. Sometimes i see people say how they only order from FCPU or only order from PPC, pretty much everytime i order WC gear it gets split between the two


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So whos got a fatty build in a Corsair Air 540? Thinking getting one especially after all these reviews I've been reading about people's Primo showing up busted and clips snapping off by merely looking at them.


This build was looking pretty good. He got it mostly finished then had some personal problems and hasn't got it 100% yet. Personally, I like the Carbide 540. I would love to do a build in one, but I'm not really planning on getting a new case anytime soon. Plus I would have to replace both my 480 radiators


----------



## kpoeticg

edit


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This build was looking pretty good. He got it mostly finished then had some personal problems and hasn't got it 100% yet. Personally, I like the Carbide 540. I would love to do a build in one, but I'm not really planning on getting a new case anytime soon. Plus I would have to replace both my 480 radiators


Yeah that is nice
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> THIS is another great 540 build


I didn't see a Carbide 540 in that link.


----------



## Ithanul

Alrighty, decided to see how my fans and primochill revolvers would look on the radiator.




Temp install to see what I need to adjust or change around.




What you all think? Change the HL Stealth out for XT45? Also debating about drilling some holes where I can mount the radiator a bit back over the mobo. Kind of looks weird where the case mount holes put it at.


----------



## wermad

Small teaser:


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I didn't see a Carbide 540 in that link.


Oops, wrong adamski log. I meant to link THIS one but i forgot that it actually started as a Prodigy, not a 540.

@Ithanul Looks great.

@wermad i've never seen one final build go through 3 cases and 3 motherboards before. Impressive stuff


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Small teaser:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking Good!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Small teaser:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good. What case is that? don't happen to have any spare xt45 140mm rads do you.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Anyone excited by the new Swiftech products at 2014's CES?


I'm curious about their new pump. If they can make a more powerful more reliable pump in a similar size I definitely am interested. It really looks to use the same casing as a DDC so maybe it will even fit other aftermarket DDC tops.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> @wermad
> i've never seen one final build go through 3 cases and 3 motherboards before. Impressive stuff


Ugh, starting fresh so this is a nice change of pace (and new challenge). I'm really sick of these builds so this is gonna do it for me. Don't hold me on this but I'm to the point where I get literally sick so this is probably it for me. Or death








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Looking Good!


Thank you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking good. What case is that? don't happen to have any spare xt45 140mm rads do you.


Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra







. Got it for cheap and it does 140mm rads pretty decently. Top just needed a bit of work to make the 420mm fit.

I only got the 420 and two 280 UT60s. Was gonna go w/ Monstas but the cost and effectiveness wasn't doing it for me tbh


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking good. What case is that? don't happen to have any spare xt45 140mm rads do you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Got it for cheap and it does 140mm rads pretty decently. Top just needed a bit of work to make the 420mm fit.
Click to expand...

Wait, wut....I can never keep up with you werm.







So the CaseLabs case was ditched?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wait, wut....I can never keep up with you werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the CaseLabs case was ditched?


Not sure what I'm going to do w/ it. I'm concentrating on this one now and I'll figure out the CL later on.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ugh, starting fresh so this is a nice change of pace (and new challenge). I'm really sick of these builds so this is gonna do it for me. Don't hold me on this but I'm to the point where I get literally sick so this is probably it for me. Or death
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Got it for cheap and it does 140mm rads pretty decently. Top just needed a bit of work to make the 420mm fit.
> 
> I only got the 420 and two 280 UT60s. Was gonna go w/ Monstas but the cost and effectiveness wasn't doing it for me tbh


Does that mean you have a spare CL case there???? Hmmmmm? I can make SD in an hour!!!!!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Does that mean you have a spare CL case there???? Hmmmmm?


Maybe







. Still waiting on the insurance claim so I can't ditch it now if FedEx wants more pictures/evidence.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Does that mean you have a spare CL case there???? Hmmmmm?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still waiting on the insurance claim so I can't ditch it now if FedEx wants more pictures/evidence.
Click to expand...

Still messing around with FedEx on that case??








Wow...sounds like a real pain, sorry to hear. They need to suck it up, and pay up.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ugh, starting fresh so this is a nice change of pace (and new challenge). I'm really sick of these builds so this is gonna do it for me. Don't hold me on this but I'm to the point where I get literally sick so this is probably it for me. Or death
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Got it for cheap and it does 140mm rads pretty decently. Top just needed a bit of work to make the 420mm fit.
> 
> I only got the 420 and two 280 UT60s. Was gonna go w/ Monstas but the cost and effectiveness wasn't doing it for me tbh


You need a challenge,i think its time you retry hard acrylic....


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Got it for cheap and it does 140mm rads pretty decently. Top just needed a bit of work to make the 420mm fit.


Just looked it up, nice.









I take it all the red fans came out? (unless you doing a Christmas themed build lol)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Still messing around with FedEx on that case??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow...sounds like a real pain, sorry to hear. They need to suck it up, and pay up.


Yup, and one of the many reasons I wanted a fresh start on a something a bit new. The heart is still the quads to run the 5x1 array. Had a blast running 6000x1920 and can't wait to fire it up. My new mb and cpu just shipped so those are the last remaining components. I've been quietly putting this one together and its coming along very quickly and smoothly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> You need a challenge,i think its time you retry hard acrylic....


I'm done w/ that. Its just way too complex. My new case isn't as big as the TH10 so I have less room to run the tubes. I thought about copper tube since Homes has 20' of 1/2" for $15 and a bender is ~$30. That's on the back burner.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Just looked it up, nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I take it all the red fans came out? (unless you doing a Christmas themed build lol)


Heck yeah!







The previous owner bought a few extra fans in red and red leds. They're sitting in a box. I need to dust them off to make the ready for sale. I orderd 15 Cougar green led fans for the three rads and one case fan. Kept the FrozenQ res since its too purrrtty to let go







.

Its back to black and green. I'll work on it more tonight and tomorrow. No way I'm working on Sunday









Go Manning!







Omaha!


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It all depends what you buy and how much you're trying to save.
> 
> Sticking with the analogy, Phobya G.Changer is to UT60 as *Toyota Avalon is to Lexus LS4***
> Same rad, less bells and whistles.
> 
> But at the same time, buying a $20 Phobya pump to run your cooling system would be a mistake. You get what you pay for usually


For the record, the Toyota Avalon is related to the Lexus ES in platform. The LS is a bespoke RWD platform.

Lexus with shared Toyota platforms
Lexus CT:Toyota Auris
Lexus ES:Toyota Avalon
Lexus RX:Toyota Highlander
Lexus GX:Toyota Land Cruiser Prado
Lexus LX:Toyota Land Cruiser

Lexus without shared Toyota platforms
IS
GS
LS
LF-A

I now return you to your regularly scheduled program ;-)


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Alrighty, decided to see how my fans and primochill revolvers would look on the radiator.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temp install to see what I need to adjust or change around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you all think? Change the HL Stealth out for XT45? Also debating about drilling some holes where I can mount the radiator a bit back over the mobo. Kind of looks weird where the case mount holes put it at.


Look nice. That GTS 360 will works well for you. So keep it. How many device/hardware you're going to water cool?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Look nice. That GTS 360 will works well for you. So keep it. How many device/hardware you're going to water cool?


Currently only going to have 4770K and one GTX Titan water cooled to start off with. I have plans to grab another Titan later to add to the rig. This not the only radiator going to be in the build. At max probably going to have 3 x 360 radiators and a 200 radiator in the loop. It just the gaps really bug me a bit, but I decided I just going to flip the rad around, and have its ports in the back of the case going down to the CPU and GPU. If it was not for the private shipper that Newegg used that lost my 915F I had order. I would have it to play around with to see how much modding I need to do to add the 915F as a pedestal for my Haf X.







I am just a bit excited to get this build done being my first time modding a case, and my 2nd water cool setup.


----------



## johnnybra

I will install custom white backplate later and finish a few little details.


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Absolutely incredible!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I love that build. Great pics!!! The video was awesome too =)


Thanks guys!! As always, I enjoy sharing my work through my videos for your viewing pleasure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Clean build! Not a fan of all that DiNoc, but a clean build non the less.


Thanks!! Your videos of the Switch 810 convinced me to choose this case for building my system.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Now that is a beautiful rig.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> That Neptune build is truly a work of art, very well done


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That is one sexy triple monitor setup.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> Nice build bro. Love the way you implemented the drain port.


Thanks for the kind words, everyone!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> OK I'm installing a couple of these inline sensors this morning (after seeing your suggestion I bought two of them) and when screwing them in as soon as they start to tighten up just a little the outside breaks free and spins. Is this your experience with these? I'm hoping it's supposed to do that so I can get the wires on it to face the most convenient direction. Either that or I just broke both of mine and neither seemed to get particularly tight before the outside broke free. I guess, if they aren't broken, they'll finish tightening up whenever I get around to screwing in the fittings into them. Might be tricky to ever unscrew them now though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely not. Did you tighten with a wrench? That definitely didn't happen with mine. I'd RMA immediately if i were you
> 
> I don't know any other high flow temp sensors without Nickel in them. I really like those Phobya's, but i haven't had any break on me. [...]
Click to expand...

I definitely did not try to tighten with any fitting with a wrench. I never even managed to get them very tight at all by hand before the outside ring began spinning freely from the brass inside. Both of them gave way so easily, just two-fingertip turning, not clenched fist muscling anything down, it seems like they were meant to do that, I assumed at the time so the sleeved wire lead attached to it can be positioned whatever direction you want/need, but then I got to wondering how are they supposed to be able to be tightened up or removed with the outer ring of the fitting just spinning free like that as that's the only thing there is to grab a hold of.

I can tell they are not going to leak, as long as they get tightened up enough, as the inside of the fitting is one piece of solid brass, but not sure whether they are going to register a proper temp, or a temp at all, if the outsides were not supposed to spin like that. I just got the things from FCPU. I'm a few days away before the next time that I might have a chance to get the rest of the loop back up and running to see if they still work or not. I guess if not I'll have to see about getting a refund/exchange.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd personally exhange em but i haven't seen the inside of the sensors. I'd imagine if they spun like that, the electrical connection was probly broken.

Out of the 6 I own, only 2 are currently installed. But i just randomly picked the 2, installed em, screwed rotaries into the sensors and fittings into the rotaries. All finger tight, but pretty secure. I'm pretty strong ~6'3" 270, so finger tight for me is pretty tight. I'm fairly confident yours are defective.

I always jump to the conclusion that stuff like that has been previously RMA'd, but i find myself saying that to people like 3 times a day lately on OCN. Can't always be the case. Maybe Postal Workers are more reckless than they used to be or something.....


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Thanks guys!! As always, I enjoy sharing my work through my videos for your viewing pleasure.
> Thanks!! Your videos of the Switch 810 convinced me to choose this case for building my system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the kind words, everyone!!


Thanks bud! You did a fine job on the build.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OK I'm installing a couple of these inline sensors this morning (after seeing your suggestion I bought two of them) and when screwing them in as soon as they start to tighten up just a little the outside breaks free and spins. Is this your experience with these? I'm hoping it's supposed to do that so I can get the wires on it to face the most convenient direction. Either that or I just broke both of mine and neither seemed to get particularly tight before the outside broke free. I guess, if they aren't broken, they'll finish tightening up whenever I get around to screwing in the fittings into them. Might be tricky to ever unscrew them now though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Phobya....says it all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I definitely did not try to tighten with any fitting with a wrench. I never even managed to get them very tight at all by hand before the outside ring began spinning freely from the brass inside. Both of them gave way so easily, just two-fingertip turning, not clenched fist muscling anything down, it seems like they were meant to do that, I assumed at the time so the sleeved wire lead attached to it can be positioned whatever direction you want/need, but then I got to wondering how are they supposed to be able to be tightened up or removed with the outer ring of the fitting just spinning free like that as that's the only thing there is to grab a hold of.
> 
> I can tell they are not going to leak, as long as they get tightened up enough, as the inside of the fitting is one piece of solid brass, but not sure whether they are going to register a proper temp, or a temp at all, if the outsides were not supposed to spin like that. I just got the things from FCPU. I'm a few days away before the next time that I might have a chance to get the rest of the loop back up and running to see if they still work or not. I guess if not I'll have to see about getting a refund/exchange.


I have inline sensors from Phobya and Aquacomputer and they all behave the same. The outer cover is just plastic to hold the flat sensor in place so they spin and come apart easily by hand. Its nothing to worry about and doesn't effect anything.

I have stopped using the Phobya because for some reason they just don't want to seal properly on the base o-ring, on flat surfaces and especially other fittings ... its like they are slightly over size or something. Mine are the older non sleeved, Nickel ones though so not 100% they are the same.

One of my Aquacomputer


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have inline sensors from Phobya and Aquacomputer and they all behave the same. The outer cover is just plastic to hold the flat sensor in place so they spin and come apart easily by hand. Its nothing to worry about and doesn't effect anything.


Thank you for this! I feel a little better about it now.
Quote:


> I have stopped using the Phobya because for some reason they just don't want to seal properly on the base o-ring, on flat surfaces and especially other fittings ... its like they are slightly over size or something. Mine are the older non sleeved, Nickel ones though so not 100% they are the same.


Hmmm? Well, once I get it all together I'll be doing another air pressure leak-test so I should find out pretty quick if mine seal up or not. I guess if not I could go with some aquacomputer ones instead. More than likely if I do have any problems with these fittings I'll probably not even try to return them. I'll more likely just chalk it up to a lesson learned and I'll start sounding just like B Neg every time the name Phobya comes up.


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering is there any fittings that I can connect two tubes together without buying any more tube?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering is there any fittings that I can connect two tubes together without buying any more tube?


A female-female adapter, double sided barb, QDCs, there's several ways depending on how you want it to look and how many fittings you want to use.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have inline sensors from Phobya and Aquacomputer and they all behave the same. The outer cover is just plastic to hold the flat sensor in place so they spin and come apart easily by hand. Its nothing to worry about and doesn't effect anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for this! I feel a little better about it now.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I have stopped using the Phobya because for some reason they just don't want to seal properly on the base o-ring, on flat surfaces and especially other fittings ... its like they are slightly over size or something. Mine are the older non sleeved, Nickel ones though so not 100% they are the same.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmmm? Well, once I get it all together I'll be doing another air pressure leak-test so I should find out pretty quick if mine seal up or not. I guess if not I could go with some aquacomputer ones instead. More than likely if I do have any problems with these fittings I'll probably not even try to return them. I'll more likely just chalk it up to a lesson learned and I'll start sounding just like B Neg every time the name Phobya comes up.
Click to expand...

In my experience, the issue with the Phobya ones leaking is usually because the male threads are too long for some brands/types of fittings . . . . . particularly Bitspower female rotaries.

When you screw them in, the male nipple bottoms out before the o ring is sufficiently compressed.

If I can't configure the fitting order to account for that, I cut the last thread and a half off. . . . That metal is dead soft and easily worked.

Interestingly, of the pile of them that I have, it's only the sleeved ones so far that have the plastic that spins free. The ones with the non-sleeved wires let you tighten them by the plastic just fine.

I'll have to buy some new ones with the plain wires to see if they are tight like the old ones, or spin like the new sleeved ones.

Darlene


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> Nice build bro. Love the way you implemented the drain port.


lol I can't even _find_ the drain port.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> My god, ordering parts is such a pain in the arse. I have to place orders at sidewinder, PPCs, _and_ FCPU because there are parts that each of them have and don't have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dat shipping


Totally. Between this loop upgrade and Christmas presents and a whole bunch of little odds and ends on eBay lately I have probably dropped $300 in shipping last few months.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Alrighty, decided to see how my fans and primochill revolvers would look on the radiator.


It's a Gucci radiator!







Hate green and red together (like red and yellow) but that actually looks pretty good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> A female-female adapter, double sided barb, QDCs, there's several ways depending on how you want it to look and how many fittings you want to use.


Yeah the female to female could have regular fittings screwed into each female end and then tube in the fittings as usual. Plenty of ways like stick said.


----------



## rickyman0319

I am looking bitpowers section on PPC. can u please tell me where it is for female to female adapter?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am looking bitpowers section on PPC. can u please tell me where it is for female to female adapter?


They hide the short one in the "misc" fittings group, 2nd page about half way down.

It's called a Multi Transfer Base (coupler)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=22958

Or did you mean female to female tube fitting,

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31319

Hidden amongst the reducers and extenders?

Darlene


----------



## rickyman0319

so I need 2 compression fittings and coupler in order to combine it.

ty


----------



## gdubc

What are people's opinions on alpha tube?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

There is a guy selling a bunch of Enzo adapters and couplers and extenders in the Cooling FS section for like $2 a piece. Got some in from him myself two days ago and they all came in handy except for the two F-Fs so far. Not building a real drain yet.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have inline sensors from Phobya and Aquacomputer and they all behave the same. The outer cover is just plastic to hold the flat sensor in place so they spin and come apart easily by hand. Its nothing to worry about and doesn't effect anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for this! I feel a little better about it now.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I have stopped using the Phobya because for some reason they just don't want to seal properly on the base o-ring, on flat surfaces and especially other fittings ... its like they are slightly over size or something. Mine are the older non sleeved, Nickel ones though so not 100% they are the same.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmmm? Well, once I get it all together I'll be doing another air pressure leak-test so I should find out pretty quick if mine seal up or not. I guess if not I could go with some aquacomputer ones instead. More than likely if I do have any problems with these fittings I'll probably not even try to return them. I'll more likely just chalk it up to a lesson learned and I'll start sounding just like B Neg every time the name Phobya comes up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In my experience, the issue with the Phobya ones leaking is usually because the male threads are too long for some brands/types of fittings . . . . . particularly Bitspower female rotaries.
> 
> When you screw them in, the male nipple bottoms out before the o ring is sufficiently compressed.
> 
> If I can't configure the fitting order to account for that, I cut the last thread and a half off. . . . That metal is dead soft and easily worked.
> 
> Interestingly, of the pile of them that I have, it's only the sleeved ones so far that have the plastic that spins free. The ones with the non-sleeved wires let you tighten them by the plastic just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to buy some new ones with the plain wires to see if they are tight like the old ones, or spin like the new sleeved ones.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

The ones i have are the sleeved inline male/female couplers. Haven't had the plastic spin. Maybe i just got lucky


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> so I need 2 compression fittings and coupler in order to combine it.
> 
> ty


What kind of tubing are you using? Acrylic or soft tubing and what inside and outside diameter?

*Soft tubing* coupling: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=39607
- Just use your choice of fittings.

*Acrylic tubing* coupling: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1262_1253&products_id=39951
- It's an all-in-one connector.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have Primochill Advance tubing

id 1/2 od 3/4


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have Primochill Advance tubing
> 
> id 1/2 od 3/4


Alright then I'd go with something like the first choice I posted above. It'll help with twisting/kinking since it's also a rotary fitting.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering is there any fittings that I can connect two tubes together without buying any more tube?


It's plastic, but this would do the job
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=&products_id=24456


----------



## skupples

figured I would try my hand @ some pictures with this new camera.









need to figure out a better way to get some light, my sealing fan lamps just aren't cutting it.


----------



## audioholic

Quick question for all you gurus out there. I just picked up my first batch of Primochill rigid tubing. Because the diameter is smaller than the regular tubing can I run my pump lower as it will move faster?
thanks everyone!


----------



## wermad

Cutting it really close but the psu with the Lian Li extender barely cleared







.


----------



## sinnedone

That's coming along nicely. Is lian li the only ones that make that? I was thinking about gettingone but was wo nderinghow much oof the intake for the power supply gets blocked off?


----------



## wermad

CM makes a 40mm for the XB (& c2 I think) . The Lian Li is actually completely open from the bottom so it doesn't obstruct the fan. Only tricky part is cutting the case just right so you don't overlap the extender's mounting points. I've done this mod a few times already and using a jigsaw is the best way to get opening and then use a dremel to finish it and deburr. The Lian Li gives you 60mm in space. Since the bottom of my Blackhawk Ultra can mount a 420, I had barely enough room for a second 280 as long as I used the extender. I'm going to heat up the connectors on the cables to give them a good bend and clear the bottom UT60 280


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

From my calculations my 360(pull) and 240(push/pull) rads (intaking) with sp fans (2200 rpm) will dissipate 491 watts with just one 140 fan exhausting....So if i add another 1x240 rad (push or pull) and lower the fan speeds on all at say 1400 rpm i will dissipate 465 watts,will it still be ok to just use the single 140 rear as exhaust....?


----------



## Belial

Has anyone heard of the Bitspower reservoir water-tank z-multi _V2_?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_657&products_id=40092

Seems to be a new line, only difference I can see is a 300mm model, and it's 2+3 instead of 1+3 ports.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Has anyone heard of the Bitspower reservoir water-tank z-multi _V2_?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_657&products_id=40092
> 
> Seems to be a new line, only difference I can see is a 300mm model, and it's 2+3 instead of 1+3 ports.


I'm getting ready to install one as we speak.


----------



## wermad

^^^ luv your avatar


----------



## skupples




----------



## Anoxy

So with all the Phobya hate in here, can anyone comment on their NB-eLoop fans?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39919

I'm thinking of grabbing one as a rear exhaust, but I'm also looking at the 120mm NB-BlackSilentPro PLPS

Just looking for a good all black 120mm fan for exhausting purposes.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So with all the Phobya hate in here, can anyone comment on their NB-eLoop fans?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39919
> 
> I'm thinking of grabbing one as a rear exhaust, but I'm also looking at the 120mm NB-BlackSilentPro PLPS
> 
> Just looking for a good all black 120mm fan for exhausting purposes.


I believe they are rebranded, & multiple companies rebrand the same fan. They get good reviews from most people.

Btw, I has a question too! When running sli/xfire the top slot (closest to CPU) reads as the highest # card in gpu-z/benchmarks correct?

Top slot = card #3
middle slot = card #2
Bottom slot = card #1

I have "It's black" gutted, getting ready to install new res, mobo shroud, & re-tim the duffed mounted gpu blocks, just trying to confirm, so that I don't needlessly waste my CLU or FujiPoly supplies.


----------



## wermad

Some of their budget stuff can crap out quickly so there's a lot of hate for Phobya. Personally, I've had few of their angle adapters leak on me. Next time, went with some alpha adapters and paid a bit more. Did order some of there extensions which should hold







.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some of their budget stuff can crap out quickly so there's a lot of hate for Phobya. Personally, I've had few of their angle adapters leak on me. Next time, went with some alpha adapters and paid a bit more. Did order some of there extensions which should hold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


lol, I had to use electricians tape on their multi-fan harnesses. It's the only way to keep them from coming apart.

Wermy! you run multi-GPU you must know the answer to my question!
Quote:


> When running sli/xfire the top slot (closest to CPU) reads as the highest # card in gpu-z/benchmarks correct?
> 
> Top slot = card #3
> middle slot = card #2
> Bottom slot = card #1


----------



## wermad

Depends on the MB. I know GB has a weird arrangement for sli but not for xfire. Asus has been normal so the top card is #1.


----------



## stickg1

Filled up with some yellow just now. I think I might like it even more than the purple..


----------



## lowfat

IMO looks 10x better w/o the purple.

Now you just need to sleeve the rig.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMO looks 10x better w/o the purple.
> 
> Now you just need to sleeve the rig.


I'm in the process. I need to order some more sleeving. I have some black 550 paracord. I want to sprinkle in some yellow and grey too. I was taking apart the cables on my Seasonic X650 and then sleeving them. But I think the better option would be to just buy the wire, connectors, pins, and crimpers and make new ones. When I remove the ATX pins they get a little jacked up. I did a CPU 8pin already in all black. It took a couple hours, lol. It was my first attempt at sleeving. The hardest part was getting the paracord exactly the right length to do heatshrinkless.

Also that 120mm rad up top is temporary. I have a Coolgate 240mm Ultra coming now!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Filled up with some yellow just now. I think I might like it even more than the purple..


Looks gorgeous


----------



## John Freeman

I spilt distilled water on my gpu while system was off but it wasnt t that much. I soaked it up with paper towels and blew some out with air can. What should I do now?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> I spilt distilled water on my gpu while system was off but it wasnt t that much. I soaked it up with paper towels and blew some out with air can. What should I do now?


Blow it off using a hair dryer. Either that or set it in front of a vent for heat in your house. Wait 24 hours just to be careful.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> I spilt distilled water on my gpu while system was off but it wasnt t that much. I soaked it up with paper towels and blew some out with air can. What should I do now?


I would give at atleast a day or 2 (making sure its properly dried) b4 i used it again....


----------



## John Freeman

Is there a good chance it got fried? I don't feel like throwing 800$ away.


----------



## wermad

You can always break down the gpu and dry it out. I use a hair dryer on low.


----------



## ozzy1925

i heard people painting their motherboards with plasti dip and i want to paint yellow heatsink parts of the m power max



is it possible and how hard to remove plasti dip ?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks gorgeous


Thanks, and thanks for the coolant!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i heard people painting their motherboards with plasti dip and i want to paint yellow heatsink parts of the m power max
> 
> is it possible and how hard to remove plasti dip ?


If those pieces are removal then yes you could easily pull them off and Plasti-Dip them. If they aren't then you'd need to mask off the rest of the heatsink.

To remove it you just tear/peel it off.

If you have to mask you might as well mask the motherboard and do the backside of the IO ports at the same time.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Filled up with some yellow just now. I think I might like it even more than the purple..


Looks great! Aint nothing wrong with that build. Do a little sleeving and good to go!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If those pieces are removal then yes you could easily pull them off and Plasti-Dip them. If they aren't then you'd need to mask off the rest of the heatsink.
> 
> To remove it you just tear/peel it off.
> 
> If you have to mask you might as well mask the motherboard and do the backside of the IO ports at the same time.


yea these heatsinks can be removed i will paint them with mask but still not sure should i plasti dip them or cover them with digital print


----------



## VSG

Ya, if you can get that 24 pin in black/yellow it would be amazing. The PCI-E cables look pretty good as they are actually.


----------



## waveaddict

Will rotating a cpu block (for better tube routing) affect cpu temps/flow? EK Supremacy to be specific.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Will rotating a cpu block (for better tube routing) affect cpu temps/flow? EK Supremacy to be specific.


No as long as the in and outs are still in and out, it's a full block cover


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> Is there a good chance it got fried? I don't feel like throwing 800$ away.


It's pretty hard to fry a GPU that doesn't have any power going to it. Give it the hair dryer, & let it sit over night.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Will rotating a cpu block (for better tube routing) affect cpu temps/flow? EK Supremacy to be specific.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> No as long as the in and outs are still in and out, it's a full block cover


Yes, rotating the block so that the in/out is vertical actually benefits temps for EK blocks. All micro channel blocks actually. This is what it means when you see (90) next to CPU water block round ups.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> No as long as the in and outs are still in and out, it's a full block cover


Thanks


----------



## wermad

The one's with "90°" indicate they were rotated ninety-degrees:

edit: Keep in mind this was on an LGA2011 cpu. I've heard ppl running LGA1155/1150 (post delid) don't see much of a difference.

http://img585.imageshack.us/i/r7qc.png/

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?282245-Stren-s-2012-CPU-Water-Block-Roundup


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Thanks


as I posted above, mounting vertical is actually beneficial towards EK temps. It's been proven in & out by many reviewers. I'm in the process of flipping mine as we speak.


----------



## stickg1

So is my Koolance 360 already turned 90*? I just thought this was how it was supposed to mount...


----------



## skupples

Not sure what's the "Standard" layout for that block. All I know is that the tests show blocks with micro-channels benefit the most.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not sure what's the "Standard" layout for that block. All I know is that the tests show blocks with micro-channels benefit the most.


Yeah me either, but I got it cheap, it's super shiny and it looks like a ninja star


----------



## wermad

Go by the logo (if one is available) or the writing on the block. That should figure the "standard" orientation.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So is my Koolance 360 already turned 90*? I just thought this was how it was supposed to mount...


Nick, I think you have it the other way round for Koolance unless they changed the layout with the 380i. For Koolance, the microchannels face up-down when the In and Out on the block are Left-Right or perpendicular to the ram slots. Don't bother changing it though, that difference hardly counts and is well within error limits.


----------



## stickg1

It's all pretty much diagonal. Hard to get a good pic cus muh rig is so bling blaow..




EDIT: Gat Dayem! That yellow is so hawt!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nick, I think you have it the other way round for Koolance unless they changed the layout with the 380i. For Koolance, the microchannels face up-down when the In and Out on the block are Left-Right or perpendicular to the ram slots. Don't bother changing it though, that difference hardly counts and is well within error limits.


I was thinking of getting a 380i because I like the looks of it. Still shiny but has some black in it too. I'm pretty sure the performance is within a couple degrees so I won't waste the money unless someone is listing one on the marketplace for like $50 or something. There was one last week on a Wednesday, I was waitin' on some checks to clear and it was gone the next day so I missed out on that one.


----------



## VSG

Don't waste money going from a 370 to a 380, your build looks pretty good and complete as it is. Keep the money for the next gen CPU/GPU upgrades


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It's all pretty much diagonal. Hard to get a good pic cus muh rig is so bling blaow..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Gat Dayem! That yellow is so hawt!
> I was thinking of getting a 380i because I like the looks of it. Still shiny but has some black in it too. I'm pretty sure the performance is within a couple degrees so I won't waste the money unless someone is listing one on the marketplace for like $50 or something. There was one last week on a Wednesday, I was waitin' on some checks to clear and it was gone the next day so I missed out on that one.


Vote for quad 400mm reservoirs


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't waste money going from a 370 to a 380, your build looks pretty good and complete as it is. Keep the money for the next gen CPU/GPU upgrades


Well it's almost complete. I scored one of these off of Jim..

Coolgate Ultimate Performance 240mm Radiator
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_945&products_id=30002

It will go up top instead of that single 120mm rad. Or I can put it up front and put the Swiftech 240mm back up top. We'll see.

That and I think I'm going to get one of these for exhausting all the hot air out of the case..

Akasa Viper 140mm Fan
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32169

Right now I use the stock Fractal 140mm that I painted yellow. It's just a little weak and heat is lingering in the case with all my rads set up for intake now.

So those two little tid bits, I'll work on the cables, and then yes I think I will be done until something crazy in the CPU/GPU department comes out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Vote for quad 400mm reservoirs


ROFL, that will likely be the only way I can use up all 32 gallons of Yellow Pastel you sent me...


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> No as long as the in and outs are still in and out, it's a full block cover


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's pretty hard to fry a GPU that doesn't have any power going to it. Give it the hair dryer, & let it sit over night.
> 
> Yes, rotating the block so that the in/out is vertical actually benefits temps for EK blocks. All micro channel blocks actually. This is what it means when you see (90) next to CPU water block round ups.


Did I mount my Heatkiller properly then?


----------



## wermad

^^^^Looks good to me









Rounded up my CSQ Acetal Nickel collection:


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Filled up with some yellow just now. I think I might like it even more than the purple..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sooooooo much better. Really glad you changed it from purple. I don't even really like yellow and I think it looks great now.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah not a whole lot of people were feelin' the purple. To be fair it didn't really photograph well from my GS4. It looked nice in person, but the pastel looks better in both cases.

A couple things to tweak and it will be complete. I'd like to try my hand at acrylic, but I have about $300 worth of BP Shining Silver compressions and adapters that I don't want to let go quite yet.

Maybe on the next build..


----------



## Anoxy

I even like just distilled in your build. Looks wonderful with the silver fittings.....but if you decide to try acrylic, I'll take those fittings off your hands


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> figured I would try my hand @ some pictures with this new camera.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> need to figure out a better way to get some light, my sealing fan lamps just aren't cutting it.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FHZ2SI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1391316016&sr=8-1&pi=SL75


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Filled up with some yellow just now. I think I might like it even more than the purple..


Honestly, that look wayyyyyy better than before.







And two 120 rads gone again...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> I spilt distilled water on my gpu while system was off but it wasnt t that much. I soaked it up with paper towels and blew some out with air can. What should I do now?


I agree with everyone that replied to you. Dry your card using paper towels & hair dryer. Leave the card in warm place for overnight or 24 hours. 24 hours is enough time for any liquid left under the memory chips for example to dry out.

Your card is fine. I wouldn't worry.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So is my Koolance 360 already turned 90*? I just thought this was how it was supposed to mount...


The 360 already in "correct" orientation. The channels are vertical. Same with 370. The 380 is not though. I doubt you will see any improvement though. In my case I got -8C improvement going from "wrong" to "correct" orientation with Raystorm block.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Rounded up my CSQ Acetal Nickel collection:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Holy eff that is a lot of circles.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Holy eff that is a lot of circles.


Lol, never was a big fan but I've grown to love them. Acetal makes the difference imho. Just went w/ all crop circles since my gpu blocks only come like this









btw, luv your take on the circles


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, never was a big fan but I've grown to love them. Acetal makes the difference imho. Just went w/ all crop circles since my gpu blocks only come like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, luv your take on the circles


I totally hated the circles at first too. It wasn't until I saw one in person did I really start to like them.


----------



## wermad

Forgot to include the DDC CSQ top too







. Had it in mockup with my res







.

A little ArmorAll on the grommets to give them a better look. Also took a quick wipe to the case and it makes it shine a bit. May do the whole thing


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FHZ2SI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1391316016&sr=8-1&pi=SL75


I think I have some umbrellas & duct tape around the house.


















i'm starting to REALLY hate these monitors. They are blind mode even when set to 0% brightness. You can't see a damned thing on the screen, but I can still FEEL the blinding.

ohh, & my epic de-bezel job has made it a horrendous task to adjust the monitor from it's osd.

/endrant


----------



## wermad

I luv me some dells











On topic:

Got a little experiment going on w/ some wc parts. I hope it gives me the results I'm looking for and I'll share w/ the community if they are


----------



## lowfat

Acrylic will start tomorrow or Monday at the latest. Just need to re-cut that shroud on the left. Finally getting so close to completion I can taste it.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-32-4.jpg.html


----------



## skupples

nice

should have my tube res & motherboard shroud in by tomorrow night. I think I may be one or two fittings shy, but I should be able to make it work. I ordered 2x 90 degree compression fittings, but I should of ordered 4.


----------



## fast_fate

Bit of a bend up last night and this morning









New loop for old favourite - the original Cirlicue


Spoiler: Before







and now...

 
 


Waiting on a New Koolance flow meter to put inline on one on the front tubes so just used some offcuts on those verticals atm, not sure which one I'll put it on yet


----------



## _REAPER_

damn that is a nice build


----------



## Ithanul

Agreed. Nice bends on those acrylic tubes too. The more I see those eLoops the more I want to buy some, but got to wait for next pay day.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bit of a bend up last night and this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New loop for old favourite - the original Cirlicue
> 
> Waiting on a New Koolance flow meter to put inline on one on the front tubes so just used some offcuts on those verticals atm, not sure which one I'll put it on yet


What coolant are you using? I've been searching for that perfect purple coolant for a while.


----------



## wermad

Very smexy fast


----------



## joejoe69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bit of a bend up last night and this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New loop for old favourite - the original Cirlicue
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: After


Very nice bends. That flow meter is a good way to hide that plain SLI/Crossfire bridge.


----------



## Angrychair

amazeballs


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Has anyone heard of the Bitspower reservoir water-tank z-multi _V2_?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_657&products_id=40092
> 
> Seems to be a new line, only difference I can see is a 300mm model, and it's 2+3 instead of 1+3 ports.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting ready to install one as we speak.
Click to expand...

Would the Bitspower V1 reservoir caps fit on them?

I like the 300mm reservoir, but I would prefer clear. If I could buy the V2 300mm reservoir (black caps), and then buy a replacement V1 clear cap, that would be the bees knees.

Also, can you measure it? Reservoirs are often NOT the reservoir that's stated in the name (ie most '400' models are 420mm, many 250mm models use 214mm tubes, etc).


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bit of a bend up last night and this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New loop for old favourite - the original Cirlicue
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on a New Koolance flow meter to put inline on one on the front tubes so just used some offcuts on those verticals atm, not sure which one I'll put it on yet


Really nice fast,if you are in sydney and do pro bono work with hard acrylic let me know....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Would the Bitspower V1 reservoir caps fit on them?
> 
> I like the 300mm reservoir, but I would prefer clear. If I could buy the V2 300mm reservoir (black caps), and then buy a replacement V1 clear cap, that would be the bees knees.
> 
> Also, can you measure it? Reservoirs are often NOT the reservoir that's stated in the name (ie most '400' models are 420mm, many 250mm models use 214mm tubes, etc).


And then some even use that number to refer to the reservoirs capacity in mL and not the length. I do kinda wish there was some sort of "consistency" in the "numbers" between them........


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bit of a bend up last night and this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New loop for old favourite - the original Cirlicue
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on a New Koolance flow meter to put inline on one on the front tubes so just used some offcuts on those verticals atm, not sure which one I'll put it on yet


Looks terrible.. go back to what you had before!

All kidding aside







is it 16mm?(5/8'') looks awesome! Im planing on changing my soft tubes for acrylics too.. and not sure what size to go for.
also, nice bends







Id be happy if mine ends up half as smooth as yours!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> damn that is a nice build


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Agreed. Nice bends on those acrylic tubes too. The more I see those eLoops the more I want to buy some, but got to wait for next pay day.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very smexy fast


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Very nice bends. That flow meter is a good way to hide that plain SLI/Crossfire bridge.


*AVOID THE PRIMOCHILL FLOW METER - too noisy, it will be coming out for sure.*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> amazeballs


*Thanks Fellas*







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> What coolant are you using? I've been searching for that perfect purple coolant for a while.


*Home Brew secret recipie mix*







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Really nice fast,if you are in sydney and do pro bono work with hard acrylic let me know....


*
Cheers Mate - I'm in Perth though*







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Looks terrible.. go back to what you had before!
> All kidding aside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it 16mm?(5/8'') looks awesome! Im planing on changing my soft tubes for acrylics too.. and not sure what size to go for.
> also, nice bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Id be happy if mine ends up half as smooth as yours!


*14mm x 10mm Acrylic
with my breadboard bends.
call me old fashioned if you like







*


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bit of a bend up last night and this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> New loop for old favourite - the original Cirlicue
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on a New Koolance flow meter to put inline on one on the front tubes so just used some offcuts on those verticals atm, not sure which one I'll put it on yet


Looks great! It needs the EK ASRock Extreme 11 full board block though









Jeffinslaw


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah not a whole lot of people were feelin' the purple. To be fair it didn't really photograph well from my GS4. It looked nice in person, but the pastel looks better in both cases.


Shoulda went pastel purple then. I really dug the purple, and since everyone and their brother either uses red, blue, or toxic green/yellow, it stood out from the crowd.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bit of a bend up last night and this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New loop for old favourite - the original Cirlicue
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on a New Koolance flow meter to put inline on one on the front tubes so just used some offcuts on those verticals atm, not sure which one I'll put it on yet


Congrats this looks amazing, mind blowing


----------



## Neo Zuko

I love the looks of your solid clear loop but I fear leaks too much to try it just yet. Plus I'd imagine it limits your compression fitting choices.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> damn that is a nice build
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Agreed. Nice bends on those acrylic tubes too. The more I see those eLoops the more I want to buy some, but got to wait for next pay day.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very smexy fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> Very nice bends. That flow meter is a good way to hide that plain SLI/Crossfire bridge.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *AVOID THE PRIMOCHILL FLOW METER - too noisy, it will be coming out for sure.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> amazeballs
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Thanks Fellas*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> What coolant are you using? I've been searching for that perfect purple coolant for a while.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Home Brew secret recipie mix*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Really nice fast,if you are in sydney and do pro bono work with hard acrylic let me know....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *
> Cheers Mate - I'm in Perth though*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Looks terrible.. go back to what you had before!
> All kidding aside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it 16mm?(5/8'') looks awesome! Im planing on changing my soft tubes for acrylics too.. and not sure what size to go for.
> also, nice bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Id be happy if mine ends up half as smooth as yours!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *14mm x 10mm Acrylic
> with my breadboard bends.
> call me old fashioned if you like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
Click to expand...

Not old fashioned...ghetto fantastic!









New res design for the S3,integrated light boxes at each end.


----------



## pc-illiterate

@ironsmack do you go pump to gpu to cpu? thats what it looks like to me. if you are, then no you didnt mount properly








its just tubed wrong. the center port is the inlet. yes i know thats not what you meant by 'properly mounted'.


----------



## jokrik

It's done









http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...nk/Project Blank Final/1_zps834e0a78.jpg.html

http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...nk/Project Blank Final/6_zpsaab8df3b.jpg.html

http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...k/Project Blank Final/10_zps904aaa0b.jpg.html

More pictures here


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Did you ever find a solution to an unexpected problem (with parts you already have) that should make you ecstatic cause it can work out after all...but you're still mad because you should have discovered it _way_ earlier before you wasted more time and effort?

Nature of the beast sometimes and all, but damn.


----------



## lowfat

Nice sleeving and acrylic work.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Here's a 140mm Phantek LED fan with apparently the same specs their nice PH-F140XP-BK for only $8 after MIR. Hell I'll just cut the LEDs.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709024


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Did you ever find a solution to an unexpected problem (with parts you already have) that should make you ecstatic cause it can work out after all...but you're still mad because you should have discovered it _way_ earlier before you wasted more time and effort?
> 
> Nature of the beast sometimes and all, but damn.


I might have before. Yeah definitely.

I just drained my loop because my pump to GPU run was bothering me. Wish I took a closer _before_ picture. Basically before I had used a 45* adapter on a 45* compression to make an elongated 90* on the GPU to be more level with the pump output. I replaced it with one of my spare 90's but then it was kind of crooked/offset from the pump. So I made a snake like fitting with that same 45* adapter and put it on a 45* compression to get a more straight up run with the same slight curve that I have on all my other tube runs. But it's a little difficult getting it to keep it's shape, because there is now 6 rotating parts on that run. Pretty expensive route, lol.

*BEFORE*


*AFTER*


*CLOSE UP OVERHEAD*


----------



## skupples

By the way. Cool Labs Liquid Ultra definitely doesn't get along with copper as well as it gets along with Nickel. I noticed it has absorbed into my CPU block. I had to bust out the super fine 2500 grit sand paper to get it off. Looks like it caused some slight pitting. This is in contrast to nickel where it just slides right off.

I'll post pictures later today if it appears to have done the same thing on my GPU blocks.

Oh, & using a whole dropper bottle of Liquid Utopia definitely seems to be over kill. Lot's of white residue on threads & what not. Going to use half a bottle this time around.


----------



## borax

Thought ide join the custom WC club


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I might have before. Yeah definitely.
> 
> I just drained my loop because my pump to GPU run was bothering me. Wish I took a closer _before_ picture. Basically before I had used a 45* adapter on a 45* compression to make an elongated 90* on the GPU to be more level with the pump output. I replaced it with one of my spare 90's but then it was kind of crooked/offset from the pump. So I made a snake like fitting with that same 45* adapter and put it on a 45* compression to get a more straight up run with the same slight curve that I have on all my other tube runs. But it's a little difficult getting it to keep it's shape, because there is now 6 rotating parts on that run. Pretty expensive route, lol.
> 
> *BEFORE*
> 
> 
> *AFTER*
> 
> 
> *CLOSE UP OVERHEAD*


what fans are you using ?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> By the way. Cool Labs Liquid Ultra definitely doesn't get along with copper as well as it gets along with Nickel. I noticed it has absorbed into my CPU block. I had to bust out the super fine 2500 grit sand paper to get it off. Looks like it caused some slight pitting. This is in contrast to nickel where it just slides right off.
> 
> I'll post pictures later today if it appears to have done the same thing on my GPU blocks.
> 
> Oh, & using a whole dropper bottle of Liquid Utopia definitely seems to be over kill. Lot's of white residue on threads & what not. Going to use half a bottle this time around.


The gallium in CLU reacts with copper sometimes even completely destroying it. Never use CLU or CLP with copper blocks or heatsinks.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what fans are you using ?


Corsair SP120s for radiators, and the Fractal stock 140mm for exhaust.


----------



## rickyman0319

I am guessing it is HP and not QE.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bit of a bend up last night and this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New loop for old favourite - the original Cirlicue
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on a New Koolance flow meter to put inline on one on the front tubes so just used some offcuts on those verticals atm, not sure which one I'll put it on yet


Your work never ceases to amaze me!







Nice work and color scheme!!







Interesting placement of the res/pump configuration. This makes me want to get a flow meter for mine now..


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^Looks good to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Rounded up my CSQ Acetal Nickel collection:


looking good buddy... i see your now rocking back the black hawk ultra







....its great case imo plenty of room to work with...looking forward to you build completion








i'm currently working on mine as well so ill be post pics when im done.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> It's done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...nk/Project Blank Final/1_zps834e0a78.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...nk/Project Blank Final/6_zpsaab8df3b.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...k/Project Blank Final/10_zps904aaa0b.jpg.html
> 
> More pictures here


great job buddy...very well done...nice pics too


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Finished plumbing the ped...

Mouse gynacology!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Did you ever find a solution to an unexpected problem (with parts you already have) that should make you ecstatic cause it can work out after all...but you're still mad because you should have discovered it _way_ earlier before you wasted more time and effort?
> 
> Nature of the beast sometimes and all, but damn.


Always have this. After I've finished something, only then do I know how I should have done it


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Finished plumbing the ped...
> 
> Mouse gynacology!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Looks like a tight squeeze to get the acrylic runs in there. Go go gadget midget hands!


----------



## Pimphare

New stuff at PPC!

Monsoon compression fitting conversion kit for acrylic tubing.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40055

Also the Monsoon Hardline Tube if you hadn't already noticed.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Always have this. After I've finished something, only then do I know how I should have done it


Heh I guess that's a little worse. It's my fault for saddling myself with another damn bay res (and no other fillport) once again. Turns out I have some thinner tubing with thick wall and two fittings that will work in that area and give me slack _without a kink_ when the res is all the way in. I somehow thought yesterday that it was too tight for these fittings. Right now the system is running using my regular 3/4" tubing and the res just hanging out the front lol.

Hey I woke up this morning thinking I might have to re-route everything so, again, I guess I should be happy!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Heh I guess that's a little worse. It's my fault for saddling myself with another damn bay res (and no other fillport) once again. Turns out I have some thinner tubing with thick wall and two fittings that will work in that area and give me slack _without a kink_ when the res is all the way in. I somehow thought yesterday that it was too tight for these fittings. Right now the system is running using my regular 3/4" tubing and the res just hanging out the front lol.
> 
> Hey I woke up this morning thinking I might have to re-route everything so, again, I guess I should be happy!


You should be happy - rerouting is a pleasure - I usually see the better solution after I've done something irreversible, like drilling or desoldering


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thanks I feel better now!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> The gallium in CLU reacts with copper sometimes even completely destroying it. Never use CLU or CLP with copper blocks or heatsinks.


Not too worried about it since it's the exterior of the block. Copper is very easy to sand & rebuff to mirror finish.

Glad to know this now, instead of 6 weeks ago when I was asking about CLU & copper.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not too worried about it since it's the exterior of the block. Copper is very easy to sand & rebuff to mirror finish.
> 
> Glad to know this now, instead of 6 weeks ago when I was asking about CLU & copper.


Yeah that should be fine.

Sorry lol never saw that post


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Yeah that should be fine.
> 
> Sorry lol never saw that post


sigh, yupp. It definitely eats the copper, but the temps are still amazing. So, i'll just have to wet sand w/ 2500 & polish before selling these blocks.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> It's done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/j...nk/Project Blank Final/6_zpsaab8df3b.jpg.html


I've been thinking about going with a Seasonic Platinum with my next build, that pic pretty much just made it the obvious choice ^_^ Nice rig too!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> @ironsmack do you go pump to gpu to cpu? thats what it looks like to me. if you are, then no you didnt mount properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its just tubed wrong. the center port is the inlet. yes i know thats not what you meant by 'properly mounted'.


It looks weird in that angle, but the loop goes:

Res-pump-240-480-GPU-CPU-480-res.

So should I flip the CPU block then?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> It looks weird in that angle, but the loop goes:
> 
> Res-pump-240-480-GPU-CPU-480-res.
> 
> So should I flip the CPU block then?




Yep - Your Heatkiller ports are being used opposite than they should be.
see page 11 on instal manual
Inlet is the centre port as PC-i pointed out








so flip block or redo fittings/hosing to suit









EDIT ...like this - gpu > cpu (via the flow indicator in mine)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone know of any coupon codes for performance-pcs or frozencpu?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone know of any coupon codes for performance-pcs or frozencpu?


ppc is OCN55

(5.5%, will basically void florida sales tax)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone know of any coupon codes for performance-pcs or frozencpu?


XTreme for FZCPU and OCN I think for PPC

EDIT - Skupples beat me to PPC and got it right (OCN55).


----------



## Ragsters

You can use OCN for FrozenCPU.


----------



## skupples

My GPU that was running 10C hotter than the other two was definitely a bad mount. Pulled the block off & there was almost zero contact with the die.


----------



## derickwm

Turns out I can post these pics here, I got a nice care package 



























































































STH10 is finally back in my hands. THERE MAY BE UPDATES IN THE NEAR FUTURE.


----------



## stickg1

Oh wow, EK isn't sick of you yet?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - Your Heatkiller ports are being used opposite than they should be.
> see page 11 on instal manual
> Inlet is the centre port as PC-i pointed out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so flip block or redo fittings/hosing to suit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT ...like this - gpu > cpu (via the flow indicator in mine)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Doh! Ok, thanks guys!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh wow, EK isn't sick of you yet?


Oh I'm sure they are


----------



## sinnedone

Thanks guys repped.


----------



## skupples

quick snap, almost done with the mini-overhaul~!

LeBestiaHumana Man, you did an amazing job matching up this acrylic to the ColdZero Acrylic...


----------



## stickg1

Alright, which one of you terds bought all the BP shining silver nozzle-less T fittings? I need one to complete my order. I guess I will settle for a Q fitting and use one of my shining silver plugs on the unused port...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone know of any coupon codes for performance-pcs or frozencpu?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> You can use OCN for FrozenCPU.


^ This



Likewise, *OCN55* will get you 5.5% off at PPCs, and *facebook* will get you 5% off at Jab-tech.


----------



## Roxycon

@skupples

How much space do you got between the dimm slots and the backplate of your top gpu?


----------



## lowfat

Starting acrylic now.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-38-4.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-37-4.jpg.html


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Starting acrylic now.


Go go go!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @skupples
> 
> How much space do you got between the dimm slots and the backplate of your top gpu?


1mm. I hear the Aquacomputer back plates are too large to fit on the top slot of the R4BE.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 1mm. I hear the Aquacomputer back plates are too large to fit on the top slot of the R4BE.


So near impossible to fit active ram coolers on there then







memory sticks (probably gonna get the ek conversions and run them on air, but they are too big for my liking) and the fact that its near impossible to sell computers in norway atm is the only things keeping me off from a x79 upgrade


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> So near impossible to fit active ram coolers on there then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> memory sticks (probably gonna get the ek conversions and run them on air, but they are too big for my liking) and the fact that its near impossible to sell computers in norway atm is the only things keeping me off from a x79 upgrade


Iv'e seen multiple people put waterblocks on their memory on this board, so I don't think it's impossible. It's just snug.

Look @ IT Diva's most recent work. It's on the same board.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e seen multiple people put waterblocks on their memory on this board, so I don't think it's impossible. It's just snug.
> 
> Look @ IT Diva's most recent work. It's on the same board.


Misunderstood me there







im not going to add anything else than a cpu block and the two graphic cards with blocks to my loop if i go x79

but i wondered if it was enough space to run two of my ocz ram coolers on the rivbe, but that would require me to make custom holders for the fans, so im pretty much down to either order some aesthetically pleasing ram and ship internationally or get the ek dominator heatsinks without blocks


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Starting acrylic now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-38-4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-37-4.jpg.html


I love that unpainted metal look. I wish more quality cases had this option. *ahem caselabs*


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I love that unpainted metal look. I wish more quality cases had this option. *ahem caselabs*


Sorry but it is just temporary. I'll be powdercoating the case in a few more weeks.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I love that unpainted metal look. I wish more quality cases had this option. *ahem caselabs*


While polished aluminum would look pretty damn cool (at least it does on some airplanes!), I'm pretty sure that the average user doesn't want to have to deal with the dulling/tarnishing/etc that occurs to aluminum when unprotected. Probably exactly why Case Labs will ship the parts primed or fully powder coated.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> While polished aluminum would look pretty damn cool (at least it does on some airplanes!), I'm pretty sure that the average user doesn't want to have to deal with the dulling/tarnishing/etc that occurs to aluminum when unprotected. Probably exactly why Case Labs will ship the parts primed or fully powder coated.


What dulling and tarnishing would happen to something that is untouched? You mount the parts and the only thing that actively touches it during its lifetime is moving air.

But I guess I'm in the minority....even if those things happened, I like how metal ages over time. Gives it character, just like raw denim or a nice pair of leather shoes.

edit: and even then, take some SOS pads to it and you get a nice brushed aluminum look.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What dulling and tarnishing would happen to something that is untouched? You mount the parts and the only thing that actively touches it during its lifetime is moving air.
> 
> But I guess I'm in the minority....even if those things happened, I like how metal ages over time. Gives it character, just like raw denim or a nice pair of leather shoes.
> 
> edit: and even then, take some SOS pads to it and you get a nice brushed aluminum look.


Bare aluminum will dull and tarnish in free air, whether it's been touched or not. It will form a thin white layer of aluminum oxide, that's why all bare aluminum is usually varnished or anodized as a surface finish to prevent it.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What dulling and tarnishing would happen to something that is untouched? You mount the parts and the only thing that actively touches it during its lifetime is moving air.
> 
> But I guess I'm in the minority....even if those things happened, I like how metal ages over time. Gives it character, just like raw denim or a nice pair of leather shoes.
> 
> edit: and even then, take some SOS pads to it and you get a nice brushed aluminum look.


EDIT: Jimhans1 totally be me to it.

Contact with the air, fingers, and whatnot over time will change how the (raw) aluminum looks. Of course, they could ship everything with the protective plastic still in place on both sides, but that kind of defeats the point of selling a case you order with the options you want and then assemble.

I have to agree though, a lot of metals look gorgeous when corrosion and such occurs, especially brass!


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bit of a bend up last night and this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New loop for old favourite - the original Cirlicue
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now...
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on a New Koolance flow meter to put inline on one on the front tubes so just used some offcuts on those verticals atm, not sure which one I'll put it on yet


my favorite part of that build is the motherboard. I used to have the same one, loved it.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 1mm. I hear the Aquacomputer back plates are too large to fit on the top slot of the R4BE.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> So near impossible to fit active ram coolers on there then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> memory sticks (probably gonna get the ek conversions and run them on air, but they are too big for my liking) and the fact that its near impossible to sell computers in norway atm is the only things keeping me off from a x79 upgrade








There you go









You actually have to cut for the two ram slot, I realized this on final assembly where I didnt cut for the right ram slot and it clashed
another way to do it easily (which I did for the right ram slot) is to trim off the ram clip just by a bit with hobby scissors
its easier than cutting the thick backplate and really not noticable


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Bare aluminum will dull and tarnish in free air, whether it's been touched or not. It will form a thin white layer of aluminum oxide, that's why all bare aluminum is usually varnished or anodized as a surface finish to prevent it.


I see. I wonder why Lian Li leaves almost all of their cases bare inside then? Or is there a clear finish?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I see. I wonder why Lian Li leaves almost all of their cases bare inside then? Or is there a clear finish?


There is a clearcoat of sealant on it. I've done builds in a couple of Lian-Li cases in the past, and once you use a stripper to remove the varnish, I can tell you, it will oxidize.









Remember, just because the aluminum is silver, doesn't mean it doesn't have a finish on it!!


----------



## Anoxy

Well then I amend my original comment to say "I wish Case Labs or other companies offered cases with sealed aluminum interiors"

I figured that was sort of implied, but the point is that I like the Lian Li interior silver finish.

Anyway, the Lian Li PC-A79 looks nice, but it doesn't look like there's much native radiator support.


----------



## skupples

So... The Thermal pads swiftech provides with the MCP35x2 heat sink secrete oil. Allot of it. It's really gross, and has permanently stained my acrylic mid plate.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So... The Thermal pads swiftech provides with the MCP35x2 heat sink secrete oil. Allot of it. It's really gross, and has permanently stained my acrylic mid plate.


They shouldn't secrete oil at all. I've had these pumps with the heat sinks on them myself and never had that problem with them. Can you post a picture and send me a PM regarding this so that I can help you resolve it? These shouldn't do that though and are you sure that you only removed the one side of the thermal pads and not the blue side? I know that removing the blue side can result in the pad possibly liquifying.


----------



## skupples

working on *pm*. Did no remove the blue side, only the hard side. Need to dig them out of the trash, it's residue left over after removing them.

+1 on speeeeed.


----------



## VSG

Now you have me worried about the same pad on my pump heatsink.


----------



## skupples

No need to worry. Just make sure you thoroughly clean the bottom of your pump if you ever remove the heat sink.

I planned on using the heatsink & the stand offs with my new tube res, but my measuring skills failed, so I had to remove everything.


----------



## stickg1

Sigh, I always forget the OCN55 coupon code. Oh well, only a $40 order.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sigh, I always forget the OCN55 coupon code. Oh well, only a $40 order.


damn! Thanks for reminding me.

Sent from Note 3


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sigh, I always forget the OCN55 coupon code. Oh well *only a $40 order*.


Lucky!!! FCPU and PPCS are like Costco for me, I can never seem to check out for less than $300!!!!!!!


----------



## derickwm

Yay for side projects?



















And lazy photography?


----------



## djayarr808

These pics are all out of order. Basically, it went:
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO, 1 x GTX 660 (couple different loop changes)
ASUS Maximus VI Formula, 1 x GTX 660
ASUS Maximus VI Formula, SLI GTX 660


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quick question guys,would a corsair sp quiet edition (1450 rpm~1.29 static pressure) be the same as a corsair sp performance set to the same 1450 rpm on a radiator....?


----------



## stickg1

Probs but I find the sweet spot for my SP's is at ~1800RPM where they perform really well, and to me are still relatively quiet.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quick question guys,would a corsair sp quiet edition (1450 rpm~1.29 static pressure) be the same as a corsair sp performance set to the same 1450 rpm on a radiator....?


Yes,the blades are the same so performance at the same speed will be the same


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,the blades are the same so performance at the same speed will be the same


Are you officially a Bitspower rep?

Congrats for whom ever it is you are repping!










Would be great if I could get more info on the way CLU interacts with Copper, I don't want to cause permanent damage. It's obvious it causes pitting, as it's the same across all of my gpu & cpu blocks. I guess what i'm trying to figure out is if it will continue to mingle?


----------



## Kurry

Small changes



































(Yea, I cleaned the right one after shooting







)


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Would be great if I could get more info on the way CLU interacts with Copper, I don't want to cause permanent damage. It's obvious it causes pitting, as it's the same across all of my gpu & cpu blocks. I guess what i'm trying to figure out is if it will continue to mingle?




This is what I get after nearly a year of use (CLU + Copper)



And this is my attempt to clean it with copper polisher, which you can clearly see it doesn't really work


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,the blades are the same so performance at the same speed will be the same
> 
> 
> 
> Are you officially a Bitspower rep?
> 
> Congrats for whom ever it is you are repping!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be great if I could get more info on the way CLU interacts with Copper, I don't want to cause permanent damage. It's obvious it causes pitting, as it's the same across all of my gpu & cpu blocks. I guess what i'm trying to figure out is if it will continue to mingle?
Click to expand...

No,Bitspower didnt want a OCN rep.
Im a rep for Specialtech.co.uk.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Sorry whats CLU?


----------



## CrSt3r

Just look at this for info









CLU

I donnu about Reviews posting here. If it is not allowed, plz delete the following link! Thx









Thermal Paste Comparison, Part Two: 39 Products Get Tested


----------



## iamkraine

Finished the loop.
Results:


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Small changes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Yea, I cleaned the right one after shooting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



Awesome job. After all these years, the TJ07 still ranks as one of my favorite cases.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,Bitspower didnt want a OCN rep.
> Im a rep for Specialtech.co.uk.


Now that hurts my feelings! With all the money I spend on BP fittings I feel I have the right to harass a rep verbally on my preferred forum!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

They didn't want to hear it from us about their logos.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,Bitspower didnt want a OCN rep.
> Im a rep for Specialtech.co.uk.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that hurts my feelings! With all the money I spend on BP fittings I feel I have the right to harass a rep verbally on my preferred forum!
Click to expand...

I did ask and they said ok,OCN contacted them and they changed their mind.Feel free to mail them and tell them their mistake....


----------



## 15goudreau

Hey guys!

Just finished the new revamp over the weekend, figured I would share


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Finished the loop.
> Results:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good sir! Nice bends!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Just finished the new revamp over the weekend, figured I would share


That blue pastel coolant looks sweet! It looks like paint!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did ask and they said ok,OCN contacted them and they changed their mind.Feel free to mail them and tell them their mistake....


Too bad, I can't think of anyone better suited to be a Bitspower REP.


----------



## stickg1

Hmm, I would have pegged bneg as more of a Phobya rep...


----------



## gdubc

Hey B Neg, any plans on Specialtech getting more of the Alpenföhns? I recently got plenty of ap-15s but still find myself NEEDING some of those beauties.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Hmm, I would have pegged bneg as more of a Phobya rep...


^this


----------



## wermad

Bneg has never been fond of Phobya from what i took from him









I turned off the SB early....very disappointed. But Seattle deserves it









Had time to hit the rest of the grommets w/ ArmorAll:



Did wipe down some of the mb panel but there's not point since the mb and other parts will cover it up. I am going to do the side panels though







.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Finished the loop.
> Results:
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1873096/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


Gorgeous. Those are some smexy bends!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Small changes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Yea, I cleaned the right one after shooting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I saw the perfect fans for you recently on a build, but i can't find it! it was testbench with teal colored fans on the cpu cooler and on the gpu cooler.
maybe something like these to cover the radiator and round out your color scheme http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835705067


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Looks good sir! Nice bends!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That blue pastel coolant looks sweet! It looks like paint!


Thanks!

I had a lighter blue before but I decided to just dump two bottles of deep blue into it and see how it looked. I'm pretty pleased with the results.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did ask and they said ok,OCN contacted them and they changed their mind.


They must have asked for&#8230;


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Hmm, I would have pegged bneg as more of a Phobya rep...


You looking for a punch in the face?







I detest all things Phobya/Alphacool.....as well you know.

If i wanted to pimp crap,I would of sold out like Derick.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Hey B Neg, any plans on Specialtech getting more of the Alpenföhns? I recently got plenty of ap-15s but still find myself NEEDING some of those beauties.


I will let you know tomorrow when stock control are in the office


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You looking for a punch in the face?


Apply cold water to that burnt area.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Apply cold water to that burnt area.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You looking for a punch in the face?


Watch out for your Phobias...









On a more serious note Bneg was this one that burn it on you:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12594/cab-429/Phobya_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_3-Pin_to_4x_3-Pin_-_UV_Red.html?id=2eRAR4se&mv_pc=1114

Kind of scary since I have some of those and after I read your report.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Apply cold water to that burnt area.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You looking for a punch in the face?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Watch out for your Phobias...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a more serious note Bneg was this one that burn it on you:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12594/cab-429/Phobya_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_3-Pin_to_4x_3-Pin_-_UV_Red.html?id=2eRAR4se&mv_pc=1114
> 
> Kind of scary since I have some of those and after I read your report.....
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You looking for a punch in the face?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apply cold water to that burnt area.
Click to expand...

It was.

And the RGB IR kit I bought for my S3....that lasted a good 15.....minutes.

I would rather stick my genitalia into a hornets nest thats being eaten by wild bears rather than work for/be associated with Phobya.

Chinese junk for crackheads.

I mean _really?_


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I detest all things Phobya/Alphacool.....


Ok, besides being sister companies, what's your beef with Alphacool? Granted, I've only used their radiators, but the rads I've had from them have all been perfect.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I detest all things Phobya/Alphacool.....
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, besides being sister companies, what's your beef with Alphacool? Granted, I've only used their radiators, but the rads I've had from them have all been perfect.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I detest all things Phobya/Alphacool.....
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, besides being sister companies, what's your beef with Alphacool? Granted, I've only used their radiators, but the rads I've had from them have all been perfect.
Click to expand...

Its more the whole way they operate,I remember the trademark grabs and the underhand tactics.
Alphacool rads are good....the rest? Not so much.

I used to give EK a hard time but I would buy their products...Phobya? Hell no!

And Stick....I showed Magoo your post.

You demise is imminent.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would rather stick my genitalia into a hornets nest thats being eaten by wild bears rather than work for/be associated with Phobya.
> 
> Chinese junk for crackheads.


No need to be diplomatic, say what you really think


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would rather stick my genitalia into a hornets nest thats being eaten by wild bears rather than work for/be associated with Phobya.
> 
> Chinese junk for crackheads.
> 
> 
> 
> No need to be diplomatic, say what you really think
Click to expand...

Sadly its one of my many failings.

However,im rarely misunderstood. I like to be supportive of the real enthusiast manufacturer's,not money grabbing fools with no moral compass.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly its one of my many failings.
> 
> However,im rarely misunderstood. I like to be supportive of the real enthusiast manufacturer's,not money grabbing fools with no moral compass.


Agree with you there!


----------



## NASzi

I purchased a Phobya res from Performance PC a while back, both end caps were all scratched up and the acrylic was cracked, sent it back, waited for a replacement and the replacement was worse. I was pretty disappointed with Performance PC and I learned my lesson about Phobya products.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly its one of my many failings.
> 
> However,im rarely misunderstood. I like to be supportive of the real enthusiast manufacturer's,not money grabbing fools with no moral compass.
> 
> 
> 
> Agree with you there!
Click to expand...

I see things like MIPS and to a lesser extent Danger Den, vanishing from the scene and the likes of Phobya still here...no justice man,anyone thats has had a MIPS block in their hand will know what im saying. Saying that,EK's clean black delrin stuff isnt a million miles away in the look of MIPS.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I bet B Neg generally has a good sense of humor and all&#8230;but not when it comes to Phobya, yo.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I bet B Neg generally has a good sense of humor and all&#8230;but not when it comes to Phobya, yo.


Honestly,im a funny troll bast*^d. But some things are step too far....


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Indeed. Such as Phobya products and QC. lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I get after nearly a year of use (CLU + Copper)
> 
> 
> 
> And this is my attempt to clean it with copper polisher, which you can clearly see it doesn't really work


Can you confirm that it seems to absorb into the copper?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I bet B Neg generally has a good sense of humor and all&#8230;but not when it comes to Phobya, yo.


another terrible phobya product... The 4 in 1 (or any quantity in one) fan hubs. I have to use electric tape on them to keep proper contact, as the fan cables just pop right now. Almost no grab. I have 6 of them, and it happens on all 6.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Indeed. Such as Phobya products and QC. lol


Koolance are close second....


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its more the whole way they operate,I remember the trademark grabs and the underhand tactics.
> Alphacool rads are good....the rest? Not so much.
> 
> I used to give EK a hard time but I would buy their products...Phobya? Hell no!
> 
> And Stick....I showed Magoo your post.
> 
> You demise is imminent.


LOL

Before I started frequenting this thread the first rotary adapters I ever bought were Phobya. 2/6 leaked. I replaced them with Alphas! LOL man did I ever need this thread.

My wallet hates it, but I can't buy anything but BP now. I tried some XSPC, those sucked. I have a few things Enzo that work like they should.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Too bad, I can't think of anyone better suited to be a Bitspower REP.


BP probably didn't want to cough up the small 500-700$ it costs to have reps on the site.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> LOL
> 
> Before I started frequenting this thread the first rotary adapters I ever bought were Phobya. 2/6 leaked. I replaced them with Alphas! LOL man did I ever need this thread.
> 
> My wallet hates it, but I can't buy anything but BP now. I tried some XSPC, those sucked. I have a few things Enzo that work like they should.


alphacool, ONLY BUY THE RADS...

^^^ Should be their slogan. Their fittings are garbage, & their blocks *look like hot garbage*


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I see things like MIPS and to a lesser extent Danger Den, vanishing from the scene and the likes of Phobya still here...no justice man,anyone thats has had a MIPS block in their hand will know what im saying. Saying that,EK's clean black delrin stuff isnt a million miles away in the look of MIPS.


I love my MIPs Iceforce. I wish I would have gotten the 1155 version and bought the 2011 mounts separate. I bought the 2011 so I can only mount to 2011 unless someone wants to get rid of their 1155/1366 mounting system.


----------



## skupples

Those mips blocks STILL rank @ the top of round ups.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Probs but I find the sweet spot for my SP's is at ~1800RPM where they perform really well, and to me are still relatively quiet.


I run my sp's at 2200 rpm when gaming,and even tho i cnt hear them when doing so,once i pause or stop the game they are loud as (sounds like a swarm of bees)....I have tried 1800~1600 but 1400~1450 is my sweet spot,better yet when we have cooler weather 1200~1250 rpm....I want to add another 240 rad just to be able to run them quiter (hopefully 1400~1450) will do the job....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,the blades are the same so performance at the same speed will be the same


Thx,will go ahead and get my order done today....


----------



## iamkraine

Now that all my gear is under water, the fan in my PSU (Silverstone Strider 650W 80gold) is irritating the hell outa me. Anyone here have experience with replacing PSU fans?


----------



## skupples

Here's a write up on Cool Labs Liquid Ultra & Copper from Forum member OccamRazor...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccamRazor*
> 
> Yap, i did a follow up after i read about copper:
> *Gallium is a reducing agent*:
> Reducing agents (oxidizing also) are the ones responsible for corrosion, which is the "degradation of metals as a result of electrochemical activity".
> Corrosion requires an anode and cathode to take place. The anode is an element that loses electrons (reducing agent), thus oxidation always occurs in the anode, and the cathode is an element that gains electrons (oxidizing agent), thus reduction always occurs in the cathode. Corrosion occurs whenever there's a difference in oxidation potential. When this is present, the anode metal begins deteriorating, given there is an electrical connection and the presence of an electrolyte.
> Gallium reacts with chalcogen elements (sometimes called the "oxygen family") only at relatively high temperatures. At room temperature, gallium metal is unreactive towards air and water due to the formation of a passive, protective oxide layer. At higher temperatures, however, it reacts with oxygen in the air to form gallium(III) oxide (Melting Point: 29.78 °C/ 85. °F)
> Until now copper was out of the gallium oxide(Ga2O3) corrosion properties but it appears it must have another "form" (salt) in the CLU compound that we are unaware of!
> So, people its best to stay away from this one!
> Thanks skupps for the heads up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Ed
> 
> (Team skyn3t)


comments, suggestions, critiques, rebuttals?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Koolance are close second....


I thought Koolance stuff had generally improved in recent years.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> At room temperature, gallium metal is unreactive towards air and water due to the formation of a passive, protective oxide layer. At higher temperatures, however, it reacts with oxygen in the air to form gallium(III) oxide
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a write up on Cool Labs Liquid Ultra & Copper from Forum member OccamRazor...
> comments, suggestions, critiques, rebuttals?
Click to expand...

Did you check the wiki entry for gallium(III) oxide to see exactly at what temperature it can form in free air?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Did you check the wiki entry for gallium(III) oxide to see exactly at what temperature it can form in free air?


Yeah... I'm slightly confused, sent occam a PM, as wiki shows something like 200C before (III) forms.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah... I'm slightly confused, sent occam a PM, as wiki shows something like 200C before (III) forms.


If CLU is applied properly, there should be no oxygen available for the layer to form. Unless it creeps in from the sides somehow.


----------



## skupples

Yeah, idk how that part works. It's not in a vacuum when between the die & block, but it also doesn't have direct contact with air, but it DOES have contact during application... idk. Above my pay grade.


----------



## Kurry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Awesome job. After all these years, the TJ07 still ranks as one of my favorite cases.


Thanks, its just a great Case









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> I saw the perfect fans for you recently on a build, but i can't find it! it was testbench with teal colored fans on the cpu cooler and on the gpu cooler.
> maybe something like these to cover the radiator and round out your color scheme http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835705067


Well, I actually dont know if thats too much blue then. I like the contrast. And in case - I would stick to Noiseblockers XL or thir blue fans.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And Stick....I showed Magoo your post.
> 
> You demise is imminent.


Oh snap, Magoo was involved. This could only end in....


----------



## John Freeman

what can i do to make my pump start circulating water? my cpu is overheating because my h220 pump wont suck in water. i have tried moving the pc around and shaking it noting is working


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> what can i do to make my pump start circulating water? my cpu is overheating because my h220 pump wont suck in water. i have tried moving the pc around and shaking it noting is working


Is the pump plugged in? If it is plugged in, is it actually running??


----------



## John Freeman

yea its on and making pump like noises lol. just not moving water


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> what can i do to make my pump start circulating water? my cpu is overheating because my h220 pump wont suck in water. i have tried moving the pc around and shaking it noting is working


As the other guy said if it is plugged in it should be working. Now lets say for some reason you have it plugged in to your mobo and the headers are either dead or disabled in your bios... then you could always try connecting directly to your psu. Should be able to feel the liquid going around, at least I use to feel it on mine before I removed.

All else fails... its new? If yes then I would RMA it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

sounds like possibly the blades in the pump are toast, or there is possibly a blockage (could be a water pump proppeller blade) in a line not allowing the proper flow


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> yea its on and making pump like noises lol. just not moving water


If it's making pump like noises then it's circulating the coolant. You likely just have a bad contact on your CPU. Try reseating your pump/ water block to see if that resolves your issue. Also be sure not to use too much or too little TIM.


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will install custom white backplate later and finish a few little details.


What tubing is that? XSPC ?


----------



## stickg1

It could just be an air pocket near the impeller. That happens with me sometimes when I fill up. I turn the pump on and it makes noise but the reservoir level doesn't decrease and water isn't circulating. Usually turning it off then back on quick fixes that, if not I just turn it off and tip the case a little bit to work the air out of that area. Just because there's water in the res and it's above the pump, doesn't mean the pump is primed.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Oh snap, Magoo was involved. This could only end in....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's okay, I have puppy princess to protect me! And that's her concerned look. She's either sure that it's dinner time, or she has to go potty! (but probably both!)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It could just be an air pocket near the impeller. That happens with me sometimes when I fill up. I turn the pump on and it makes noise but the reservoir level doesn't decrease and water isn't circulating. Usually turning it off then back on quick fixes that, if not I just turn it off and tip the case a little bit to work the air out of that area. Just because there's water in the res and it's above the pump, doesn't mean the pump is primed.


With these kits though it would either make a racket if it wasn't primed or the pump wouldn't spin at all. That's been my experience with them anyway. It's most likely a bad contact since he is hearing pump like noises.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With these kits though it would either make a racket if it wasn't primed or the pump wouldn't spin at all. That's been my experience with them anyway. It's most likely a bad contact since he is hearing pump like noises.


Yeah my bad, I got in on the tail end of that and didn't realize we were talking about a H220.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah my bad, I got in on the tail end of that and didn't realize we were talking about a H220.


No problem and thanks for trying to help.


----------



## skupples

Looks like LRT bloodshed (red)


----------



## Lefik

I'm in the process of rounding up a ton of 120mm fans for testing with radiators.
Part of the purpose is to find the better quiet radiator fans, so all of the fans need to be under about 20 Dba.

Are there any fans you guys would like to see tested (beside the obvious ones)?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I'm in the process of rounding up a ton of 120mm fans for testing with radiators.
> Part of the purpose is to find the better quiet radiator fans, so all of the fans need to be under about 20 Dba.
> 
> Are there any fans you guys would like to see tested (beside the obvious ones)?


NoiseBlocker eLoops and Alpenfohn?


----------



## Lefik

Already have eLoops, added Alpenfohn Wingboost 2s to the list.


----------



## John Freeman

i got it to work. just needed a hard shaking and some patience. its circulating with a few bubbles left in it and CPU is back to idling at 30-35C instead of 70-90C lol. my main problem i think is having the h220 res and a bay res. it is much harder to bleed


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I'm in the process of rounding up a ton of 120mm fans for testing with radiators.
> Part of the purpose is to find the better quiet radiator fans, so all of the fans need to be under about 20 Dba.
> 
> Are there any fans you guys would like to see tested (beside the obvious ones)?


ZALMAN SF3 120mm

Cooler Master JetFlo 120

Thermaltake Pure 12

Deepcool UF 120


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> ZALMAN SF3 120mm
> 
> Cooler Master JetFlo 120
> 
> Thermaltake Pure 12
> 
> Deepcool UF 120


Thanks!

41 different fans now


----------



## skupples

this might be a bit dark...

I only used 10 inches of this LED strip & it's wedged up behind my radiator.

Now I just need to figure out how to re-use the left over 10 feet! It's one of those AC/DC 12V IR remote, RGB LED strips. The left over has an end which has Red/green/blue/black coming out of it, so I think I may be able to mate it with a 4 pin, which I think would leave me with only white as the only color.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> this might be a bit dark...
> 
> I only used 10 inches of this LED strip & it's wedged up behind my radiator.
> 
> Now I just need to figure out how to re-use the left over 10 feet! It's one of those AC/DC 12V IR remote, RGB LED strips. The left over has an end which has Red/green/blue/black coming out of it, so I think I may be able to mate it with a 4 pin, which I think would leave me with only white as the only color.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can you put some in the floor to light up the other half of the case?

I went a little excessive with my LEDs. I will probably re-do them one of these days and tone it down at bit. Also sleeve the wires a little better now that I'm learning how.


----------



## Pimphare

What LED strips are y'all using? I'm in the market for some for my case.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Can you put some in the floor to light up the other half of the case?
> 
> I went a little excessive with my LEDs. I will probably re-do them one of these days and tone it down at bit. Also sleeve the wires a little better now that I'm learning how.


Well. I have like 15 feet of left over LED strip. The only problem is that I would have to solder on my own wires to get more than one more use out of it.

This is the kit i'm using. Iv'e already used one length for the top of the case, which makes use of the IR blaster & the AC/DC.... The other end of the strip is pre-wired, which can plug into a standard 4pin header assuming I pickup the necessary tools for opening & crimping on the header. From what I understand it will be stuck on white, but that's a non-issue as that's what i'm looking for.







One of the problems is that i'm not sure if the 12V signal coming off of the board would give the strip enough power. The other problem is that i'm running out of space. I won't be able to put my back panel on after the most recent upgrades.

to make use of a second length I would need get a soldering iron, or w/e that clear glue substance is iv'e seen people use before.

oh, which reminds me. Can some one point me in the direction of w/e tool is needed for opening/crimping fan headers?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## stickg1

I just soldered all mine together, it's the basic one color (white) with no remote or blaster or anything. I think I have a picture somewhere....



Hehe, while going through my pictures on Photobucket I saw a pic of my first ever water loop!!



Look at the hose adapters and clamps!! LOL


----------



## skupples

so, being that this strip has the 4 pins for RBG, which two would I need to solder for basic functionality? Obviously the 12V, but which one is ground?

also, what is that solder like glue I see people use? Is it just called solder glue?


----------



## stickg1

Not sure. Check out this thread though..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246458/easy-cheap-led-case-lighting/450#post_21713141


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 41 different fans now


Any Nanoxia fans on your list?

Also would be good to test some prolimatech and akasa.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> What LED strips are y'all using? I'm in the market for some for my case.


I too was gonna go led strips then decided the NZXT Hue RGB LED Controller was better,most because if i get tied of one color i can use another....









How are those NB's in push/pull....?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> What LED strips are y'all using? I'm in the market for some for my case.


I'm using a massive Red/green/blue strip, that has an IR blaster remote. You can get a molex powered variant from Performance PC's for like 20$

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_1246_1247&products_id=39262

+1 to stick for helps.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And Stick....I showed Magoo your post.
> 
> You demise is imminent.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh snap, Magoo was involved. This could only end in....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Fixed it for you


----------



## skupples

ahhhh! Magoo looks like a beast.


Spoiler: Warning: OFF TOPIC AHHHHHHHHHHHHH!




Bourbon is a firm believer that life is better upside down.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Any Nanoxia fans on your list?
> 
> Also would be good to test some prolimatech and akasa.


I have Akasa Vipers and Apaches on my list. Thanks for the suggestion, I added Nanoxia DS to the list, but sadly the only 120mm Prolimatech fans under 20 Dba are their super slim series. I'm curious to see how they perform on radiators, but I don't think they can really be compared too well to the others.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ahhhh! Magoo looks like a beast.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: OFF TOPIC AHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bourbon is a firm believer that life is better upside down.


Ooooh, I had basenjis a looong time ago. They were supposed to be barkless dogs, which was sort of true, except sometimes they would howl like coyotes at night. lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Ooooh, I had basenjis a looong time ago. They were supposed to be barkless dogs, which was sort of true, except sometimes they would howl like coyotes at night. lol.


haha yeah... Bourbon's breeder had a few comments about that. A.) the more domestication the less they yodel. B.) The more they are selectively bred for temperament the less they yodel. Bourbon is basically 100% silent, accept when harassing Ruby & even then he's pretty quiet, he mostly cackles. I have yet to hear him howl. Ruby is a chatter box. She doesn't bark @ the door, or @ strangers, or @ other dogs, but she does let you know when she wants something. I think she learned it from our late Jack Russel. They are 10 years apart, but you can only tell that by Ruby's grey hairs.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> What LED strips are y'all using? I'm in the market for some for my case.


I'm using a RGB lighting kit I found off Amazon.


----------



## skupples

Yupp! That's the one I have! The LED's aren't the brightest. They don't even come close to the higher rend water proof strips, but it still gets the job done.

so, no one knows what type of crimper is used for fan plugs?

I guess everyone's fans come pre-sleeved these days.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yupp! That's the one I have! The LED's aren't the brightest. They don't even come close to the higher rend water proof strips, but it still gets the job done.
> 
> so, no one knows what type of crimper is used for fan plugs?
> 
> I guess everyone's fans come pre-sleeved these days.


I use a hobby knife with ~2mm of the tip broke off of the blade to remove pins from a fan connector. You just push lightly on the pin in one of the slots and push it out as you pull lightly on the wire. I've used various other implements as well, like a paperclip if it's thin enough, but a hobby knife works much better imho.



As far as crimping new fan terminals (if you even need to. If you're just sleeving the cables you can just slide the pins through the sleeve and push them back in to put the connector back on), I use an MDPC crimper, and follow an MDPC guide or one of the vids from Lutro0 on how to get a good crimp. I've tried several other crimpers and they were all junk before I finally broke down and ordered the real-deal from Nils.

*edit:* I probably should also mention that I use a set of helping hands to hold the wire and a magnifying lamp to do crimps. I don't ever see others having to use one in their how-tos, but I find I really need one to make sure the wire and pin are lined up right. I can still score a 20/20 on an eye chart and don't wear any glasses/contacts or anything, but I guess my eyes aren't as good as others are.

-- Also added a pic above.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yupp! That's the one I have! The LED's aren't the brightest. They don't even come close to the higher rend water proof strips, but it still gets the job done.
> 
> so, no one knows what type of crimper is used for fan plugs?
> 
> I guess everyone's fans come pre-sleeved these days.


I actually prefer it. I have a smaller case (350D) and the brightness is perfect for me with a strip across the top.


----------



## skupples

I always forget about MDPC.

+1


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I have Akasa Vipers and Apaches on my list. Thanks for the suggestion, I added Nanoxia DS to the list, but sadly the only 120mm Prolimatech fans under 20 Dba are their super slim series. I'm curious to see how they perform on radiators, but I don't think they can really be compared too well to the others.


Bgears b-PWM 120mm on your list?


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Bgears b-PWM 120mm on your list?


Added them. I saw them earlier and considered them but they seemed too loud. Fortunately they're PWM, so I'll play around with them and see if I can get them run quietly.


----------



## derickwm

Yeahhhh taking advantage of dat cold winter.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeahhhh taking advantage of dat cold winter.


Nice cheats


----------



## stickg1

I think your camera is broken..


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I too was gonna go led strips then decided the NZXT Hue RGB LED Controller was better,most because if i get tied of one color i can use another....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are those NB's in push/pull....?


They're amazing man! I keep them on low while maintaining good temps and they're comfortably quiet. While gaming, my GPU temps stay around 30 Celsius and CPU temps stay within the 30's range so far.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I'm using a RGB lighting kit I found off Amazon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a massive Red/green/blue strip, that has an IR blaster remote. You can get a molex powered variant from Performance PC's for like 20$
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_1246_1247&products_id=39262


Thanks guys! How's cable management with these lights? I'm trying to decide if I wanna go led strips or led sticks..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I wanna hang out at Derick's house.


----------



## skupples

Mrparacord.com going out of business clearance sale.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeahhhh taking advantage of dat cold winter.


I see your two Lightnings and raise you four









I members that board


----------



## derickwm

Sell me one and we'll be even?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Mrparacord.com going out of business clearance sale.


It doesn't look like they are going out of business. It just seems that they are retiring a bunch of products lines (colors).


----------



## Anoxy

Could someone tell me what fittings and tubing are used here:


----------



## VSG

Looks like NPT fittings, I can see some teflon tape peeking out around the GPU section. If that is the case then it is likely hard tubing.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah it looks like painted pex and npt fittings.


----------



## skupples

That's a good question... It looks semi-rigid.

I don't think either of the products are actual "pc water cooling" supplies.


----------



## Anoxy

Ah, I figured it out. They're koolance fittings. Or at least the angled adapters are.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Could someone tell me what fittings and tubing are used here:


Painted copper and Aquatuning pushfits...


----------



## skupples

it looks so ruberized, must be plasti-dip.


----------



## Anoxy

It says these nozzles are for copper pipe, but couldn't they technically also be used for acrylic tubing?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_474&products_id=25630


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> It says these nozzles are for copper pipe, but couldn't they technically also be used for acrylic tubing?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_474&products_id=25630


No,they use a ferrule which crushes and traps the tube,the acrylic will just crack.


----------



## wermad

Metric copper tube is crazy expensive in the US. Best price I found was ~$100 for a coil of 10m 12mm copper tube.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,they use a ferrule which crushes and traps the tube,the acrylic will just crack.


Is that similar to a SwageLok ferrule?


----------



## Simplynicko

i know this gets mentioned from time to time, but what is the most commonly used copper pipe and fittings?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,they use a ferrule which crushes and traps the tube,the acrylic will just crack.
> 
> 
> 
> Is that similar to a SwageLok ferrule?
Click to expand...

No,its a proper dual edged brass one,its cuts into the copper.



The Swagelok is a wedge design.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Could someone tell me what fittings and tubing are used here:


Actually, those look to be a push-in style connector, sort of like the "shark-bite" brand here in the states. They are not any of the "crimp" style or collar style. And the tubing looks like PEX that has been dyed


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Actually, those look to be a push-in style connector, sort of like the "shark-bite" brand here in the states. They are not any of the "crimp" style or collar style. And the tubing looks like PEX that has been dyed


I'm not familiar with any of those things, though I'm fairly sure the angled adapters are these from Koolance.

Or at least the one on the top right connecting to the rad looks like that.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Actually, those look to be a push-in style connector, sort of like the "shark-bite" brand here in the states. They are not any of the "crimp" style or collar style. And the tubing looks like PEX that has been dyed


B Neg already answered what it is ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Painted copper and Aquatuning pushfits...


This is the guy's build...
http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/780_20#post_21075992

And here's his build log if you want to see it ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *A Touch of Gray*
> 
> The first of a few updates that I'll be adding over today and tomorrow.
> 
> The black rads, although fitting within the monochrome theme, were missing a little something to fit in with the rest of the build. First a little prep.
> 
> 
> 
> I think they're ready for the paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it. Now about those copper pipes.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding them down, I was almost sad to paint them. With a bit more work using a finer grit and then some touch up with steel wool, I think these would have a fantastic color and depth. But, color has been banned from this build.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm not familiar with any of those things, though I'm fairly sure the angled adapters are these from Koolance.
> 
> Or at least the one on the top right connecting to the rad looks like that.


Here is the style of tubing fitting 
These fittings are made in GBPT and GBPP type threads, and tubing sizes from 4mmOD-16mmOD
and you can use either Copper tubing OR PEX style tubing. but acrylic might crack possibly.

And yes, the 90-degree fitting looks just like the Koolance low-profile 90's I've used before.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> B Neg already answered what it is ...
> This is the guy's build...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/780_20#post_21075992
> 
> 
> 
> And here's his build log if you want to see it ...


Thank you. I saved the photo a while ago but not where I found it








Guess I could have just reverse image searched it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Here is the style of tubing fitting
> These fittings are made in GBPT and GBPP type threads, and tubing sizes from 4mmOD-16mmOD
> and you can use either Copper tubing OR PEX style tubing. but acrylic might crack possibly.
> 
> And yes, the 90-degree fitting looks just like the Koolance low-profile 90's I've used before.


Ah, perfect. Thanks you two!


----------



## wermad

If you're ok w/ 3/8" od copper tube, these have been used a bit:



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-In-Male-Fittings-3-8-OD-x-1-4-BSPP-G-Thread-10-PC-/260453196642?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ca4386362

They're not that "fancy" looking and i hear that they do better if they're bored out since the inside is a bit restrictive.

Home Depot has a roll of 10' 3/8" od copper coil tubing for ~$10-15. Bending tools for 3/8" (and 10mm) are very cheap, ~$5-10 (harborfreighttools.com).

1/2" tube, I been pondering about this w/ Primochill Ghost/Revolver fittings. M-grade tube is ~$15 for 10' at Homes. Though, the bending tool is a bit expensive. Cheapest one I've found was on ebay for ~$35-40. While the brand and good ones go for ~$100.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Thanks guys! How's cable management with these lights? I'm trying to decide if I wanna go led strips or led sticks..


It's great. The strips themselves can't be bent, but you can cut them into strips of 3, 6, 9, etc lights and then connect them back together with wires. I have a strip of 6 running in the top front, another 6 in the back top, and a strip of 3 to light up my bay reservoir. They sell connectors to make it easy to put together, but if you want certain lengths, you can always just cut your own wire and solder them together. The IR box is actually really small and I have it hidden on the back side of one of my rads.


----------



## Anoxy

If they made a soft tubing that narrow, I would even be okay with that. Really, I just like the way those fittings look.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> It's great. The strips themselves can't be bent, but you can cut them into strips of 3, 6, 9, etc lights and then connect them back together with wires. I have a strip of 6 running in the top front, another 6 in the back top, and a strip of 3 to light up my bay reservoir. They sell connectors to make it easy to put together, but if you want certain lengths, you can always just cut your own wire and solder them together. The IR box is actually really small and I have it hidden on the back side of one of my rads.


How are you bridging the cut strips together?

We are still talking about the 16 foot strip from Amazon correct?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> If they made a soft tubing that narrow, I would even be okay with that. Really, I just like the way those fittings look.


3/8" od nylon tube? Its really not that common in pc wc but there's plenty of it out there. Your local hardware store or ebay will surely have some. I think it runs 1/4" id. Hence why you still see some 1/4" fittings







.

For copper, most coil tube can be easily manageable. From my limited research, the lower the letter, the softer the copper. For example, Home Depot has M and L grade tube. M is softer and from the youtube bending vids, its ideal for bending.

My main issue w/ copper and hard acrylic and getting the right bends. From what I can gather, if they're not on the same plane, you'll need some minor adjustments by making some minor bends to compensate. Otherwise, you'll need a few angled adapter fittings to get clean runs. Still running good old nylon for now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm not familiar with any of those things, though I'm fairly sure the angled adapters are these from Koolance.
> 
> Or at least the one on the top right connecting to the rad looks like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the style of tubing fitting
> These fittings are made in GBPT and GBPP type threads, and tubing sizes from 4mmOD-16mmOD
> and you can use either Copper tubing OR PEX style tubing. but acrylic might crack possibly.
> 
> And yes, the 90-degree fitting looks just like the Koolance low-profile 90's I've used before.
Click to expand...

The actual fittings are these.

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html



The PEX tube you mentioned needs a small metal insert to work properly,normally Alu....copper can be found however.
Acrylic is also fine with these fittings,there is no fixed clamping,the lock ring just stops tube coming out with those small teeth you mentioned.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> How are you bridging the cut strips together?
> 
> We are still talking about the 16 foot strip from Amazon correct?


Yep yep. You can buy pre-made connectors or cut 4 lengths of wires and solder them in. At the cutting points, there are little "pads" for the 12V, R, G, and B. You'll need to attach a wire so you can re-connect them. So, you attach a wire from the 12V to 12V, R to R, etc. You can see them, oval-shaped, in the picture below.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Mrparacord.com going out of business clearance sale.


Paracordplanet.com is a good one also. They have a deal right now $44.95 for a 1000' spool! I bought some paracord from them a while back and it was nice stuff without any imperfections.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Yep yep. You can buy pre-made connectors or cut 4 lengths of wires and solder them in. At the cutting points, there are little "pads" for the 12V, R, G, and B. You'll need to attach a wire so you can re-connect them. So, you attach a wire from the 12V to 12V, R to R, etc. You can see them, oval-shaped, in the picture below.


You are a god send...

Ordering those NOW.

+100,000,000


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Painted copper and Aquatuning pushfits...


^That was my guess about the tubing.


----------



## skupples

I'm so happy with my self for drilling a hole in the top of the 900D to access one of the ports in the top rad. It's made filling much much easier. Flood the system from there, fill of the res, = perfection!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Yep yep. You can buy pre-made connectors or cut 4 lengths of wires and solder them in. At the cutting points, there are little "pads" for the 12V, R, G, and B. You'll need to attach a wire so you can re-connect them. So, you attach a wire from the 12V to 12V, R to R, etc. You can see them, oval-shaped, in the picture below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


After you cut and solder these with wires, do you just hot glue the ends to avoid direct contact with your case that could possibly cause a short? What is your method?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so happy with my self for drilling a hole in the top of the 900D to access one of the ports in the top rad. It's made filling much much easier. Flood the system from there, fill of the res, = perfection!


Yeah I did similar to the top of my Enthoo Primo. It definitely made filling things much easier. I just crack the fill port open in my res and the res fills as I fill the loop from the top. I just seal the res fill port back up when the fluid reaches the top of it and continue filling the rest of the loop. It lets me fill up the entire loop in one go.

I cut holes for both top-facing ports so as to better allow air to escape from one as I filled the other, plus it made a perfect location to screw in an air gauge and a schrader valve so I can leak-test using compressed air before filling the loop. Both of the holes/ports I cut in the top get covered up/hidden when I replace the top fan filter cover over the top fans.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> After you cut and solder these with wires, do you just hot glue the ends to avoid direct contact with your case that could possibly cause a short? What is your method?


I just use heatshrink.

BTW - I'm looking to trade my R9 290 w/ Koolance block for another type GPU, preferably with waterblock. I have the classy ad in my sig..


----------



## skupples

That's bad ass!

I don't think any water will actually make it to my res due to my loop setup. I'm just happy with filling up the 2x 480's.

edit: looks like I was wrong! Pulled the cap off of the res relieving the rest of the vacuum & poof res started filling.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's bad ass!
> 
> I don't think any water will actually make it to my res due to my loop setup. I'm just happy with filling up the 2x 480's.
> 
> edit: looks like I was wrong! Pulled the cap off of the res relieving the rest of the vacuum & poof res started filling.


I luv it. There's hardly any air bubbles at all to bleed out after filling like that.

I also made my drain at the very bottom of my loop. My bottom rad in the Enthoo Primo sits facing up/down, not like yours does in a 900D, so I did a 90 degree fitting to a valve in one of the bottom-facing ports like so ...



That way after cracking open the fill ports my whole loop drains completely. I even rigged up a drill pump so with a cordless drill attached to it I can drain my entire loop in about 20 seconds. lol


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 3/8" od nylon tube? Its really not that common in pc wc but there's plenty of it out there. Your local hardware store or ebay will surely have some. I think it runs 1/4" id. Hence why you still see some 1/4" fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> For copper, most coil tube can be easily manageable. From my limited research, the lower the letter, the softer the copper. For example, Home Depot has M and L grade tube. M is softer and from the youtube bending vids, its ideal for bending.
> 
> My main issue w/ copper and hard acrylic and getting the right bends. From what I can gather, if they're not on the same plane, you'll need some minor adjustments by making some minor bends to compensate. Otherwise, you'll need a few angled adapter fittings to get clean runs. Still running good old nylon for now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The actual fittings are these.
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PEX tube you mentioned needs a small metal insert to work properly,normally Alu....copper can be found however.
> Acrylic is also fine with these fittings,there is no fixed clamping,the lock ring just stops tube coming out with those small teeth you mentioned.


Thanks guys, really helpful information. Strongly considering something like this for my rebuild now


----------



## skupples

I'll be adding in legit drain ports in the next tear down.

Do many people use air bubble sponge filters in tube reservoirs?

She's almost ready to turn on!

I swear liquid utopia causes Distilled to form even more hard to break tiny bubbles.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I wanna hang out at Derick's house.


----------



## VSG

That crossed many a line, Derick


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> They're amazing man! I keep them on low while maintaining good temps and they're comfortably quiet. While gaming, my GPU temps stay around 30 Celsius and CPU temps stay within the 30's range so far.


So no prob with them in push/pull like most mentioned would happen....


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So no prob with them in push/pull like most mentioned would happen....


Not at all. I'm completely satisfied with them. I have nine total of the NB-eLoop B12-3 models. Two in push on ST30 240mm top rad (exhausting), six in push/pull on 360mm Monsta front rad (intaking), and one in the back of the case as an exhaust only. I have the front six fans controlled with two of these at the lowest setting:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Lian Li Fan Speed Controller, Support Fan x 4




The other three are being controlled by the built-in speed control of my 650D case on it's lowest setting. Great fans!


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> After you cut and solder these with wires, do you just hot glue the ends to avoid direct contact with your case that could possibly cause a short? What is your method?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I just use heatshrink.
> 
> BTW - I'm looking to trade my R9 290 w/ Koolance block for another type GPU, preferably with waterblock. I have the classy ad in my sig..


I did the same thing; used heatshrink.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Not at all. I'm completely satisfied with them. I have nine total of the NB-eLoop B12-3 models. Two in push on ST30 240mm top rad (exhausting), six in push/pull on 360mm Monsta front rad (intaking), and one in the back of the case as an exhaust only. I have the front six fans controlled with two of these at the lowest setting:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Lian Li Fan Speed Controller, Support Fan x 4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other three are being controlled by the built-in speed control of my 650D case on it's lowest setting. Great fans!


Well, I don't have eLoops to say one way or another, and some who do have them like yourself say they just don't notice it, but just as many if not more have reported their eLoops get louder / buzzing almost like the blades are hitting something when used in pull. Even Blacknoise says their eLoop is not designed to be used in pull, but if you are going to use it in pull they suggest using a shroud at least 5-10 mm thick ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> last week i asked if we can use Noiseblocker e-loops as push and pull here is the offical answer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in the FAQ on the e-loop home page:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?*
> 
> This is due to aerodynamics, simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessories) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimized for.
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Could someone tell me what fittings and tubing are used here:


They are Pbobya 10mm Push Fittings with Koolance angled adapters. The thread is really long on the fittings, so I had to use a variety of EK spacers to get everything to fit.

More pics/info in my build log.


----------



## Angrychair

nothing special here, just swapped the stock case fans for the AF140s and redid all my rear wiring with anchors, it cleaned up a lot, but still not fancy! Also finally scored some wifi antennas I been wanting.


----------



## skupples

Got the beast all bled. Will turn her on tomorrow. A few observations. The MCP35x2 is so much quieter now that it's not hooked up to the maelstrom. Must of been reverberating with the case or something. Also, I noticed some corrosion ALREADY! BUT, it's only on my Swiftech fittings. All the other fittings are clean as a whistle. Using Utopia & Distilled water.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Got the beast all bled. Will turn her on tomorrow. A few observations. The MCP35x2 is so much quieter now that it's not hooked up to the maelstrom. Must of been reverberating with the case or something. Also, I noticed some corrosion ALREADY! BUT, it's only on my Swiftech fittings. All the other fittings are clean as a whistle. Using Utopia & Distilled water.


Can you take a picture skupps? Would be interested in taking a look on that corrosion....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Got the beast all bled. Will turn her on tomorrow. A few observations. The MCP35x2 is so much quieter now that it's not hooked up to the maelstrom. Must of been reverberating with the case or something. Also, I noticed some corrosion ALREADY! BUT, it's only on my Swiftech fittings. All the other fittings are clean as a whistle. Using Utopia & Distilled water.


These fittings are made of brass so I have hard time believing that it could be corrosion. I'm interested if you can post some pics though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Can you take a picture skupps? Would be interested in taking a look on that corrosion....


imgur is throttling me, so you will have to deal with ocn gritty for the last one. The shot with three fittings shows the fitting that the two corroded fittings were attached to. fittings fitting in fittings, because they are fittings which attach to fittings.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These fittings are made of brass so I have hard time believing that it could be corrosion. I'm interested if you can post some pics though.


I feel like i'm bugging you way too much this week.









they were screwed as Enzotech>swift>swift It may be the powder coat corroding.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> imgur is throttling me, so you will have to deal with ocn gritty for the last one. The shot with three fittings shows the fitting that the two corroded fittings were attached to. fittings fitting in fittings, because they are fittings which attach to fittings.
> 
> I feel like i'm bugging you way too much this week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they were screwed as Enzotech>swift>swift It may be the powder coat corroding.


That's what it could be. I've just never seen it do that before. Our new black fittings are actually more of a gun barrel color that's anodized I think. Therefore this won't happen to our new version of these.


----------



## skupples

I tried to get a picture of it, but I couldn't get the lighting right. You can see the corrosion forming around rings of missing powder coat. So, visible brass, white ring around it, then the powder coat.

I'm thinking about switching over to an actual coolant for the first time in forever. Seems DW+Utopia isn't cutting it, as this shouldn't happen @ all really.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I tried to get a picture of it, but I couldn't get the lighting right. You can see the corrosion forming around rings of missing powder coat. So, visible brass, white ring around it, then the powder coat.
> 
> I'm thinking about switching over to an actual coolant for the first time in forever. Seems DW+Utopia isn't cutting it, as this shouldn't happen @ all really.


No it shouldn't. It actually looks like some kind of oxidation. I'll show our engineer in the morning to see what he thinks it might be.


----------



## skupples

You da man Bram!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> imgur is throttling me, so you will have to deal with ocn gritty for the last one. The shot with three fittings shows the fitting that the two corroded fittings were attached to. fittings fitting in fittings, because they are fittings which attach to fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like i'm bugging you way too much this week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they were screwed as Enzotech>swift>swift It may be the powder coat corroding.


I'm not sure it's corrosion. I've seen quite a few complaints over the years about Liquid Utopia forming a white film on some parts. IIRC many said it goes away after a while. Even Primochill's ads for the stuff mention it:
Quote:


> *[...] If you notice white sediment in your loop, it is most likely Liquid Utopia has been hard at work! White sediment may be present for sometime, depending on the amount of existing contaminants.* PrimoChill is not responsible for any hardware damage. Use at your own risk.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13066/ex-liq-164/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_Bomb_Bottle_-_15mL_-_Clear_PCLUBT-CLR.html?tl=g30c103s186&id=5X4eUqRV&mv_pc=7525


----------



## skupples

I saw the white powder, it settled in my bay res when I pulled it out. It doesn't clean off easily, but I thought about that as well. anyways, i'm not too worried about it. Removed all of them from the loop.

@Bramsli1 i'm using Tygon Norprene, if that helps.


----------



## SeeThruHead

I have that exact same residue on the threads of my koolance qdc. Using distilled. Didn't happen the the Bitspower fittings in have in the same loop so I feel like it's cause by the coating on the fittings.


----------



## skupples

seems to be a growing consensus. I mean, if they come from the factory missing finish on the outside, it's probably pretty weak.


----------



## wermad

I've had that on my koolance sli links and xspc extensions.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> They are Pbobya 10mm Push Fittings with Koolance angled adapters. The thread is really long on the fittings, so I had to use a variety of EK spacers to get everything to fit.
> 
> More pics/info in my build log.


Sweet, thanks. Seems like you haven't updated your build log in a while, but you posted finished (?) photos of it in the EK thread. Any plans to update it? I absolutely adore your build.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


More water-cooling than man. I can hardly see that computer Mr. Murphy.


----------



## GaMbi2004

That looks.. Just..








awesome routing! especially around the CPU / RAM etc!


----------



## Angrychair

JEEEEZE, you guys always amaze me, amazing work james!!!! really good plumbing man. Great Scott!w Insane loop, what coolant are you running, distilled?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> JEEEEZE, you guys always amaze me, amazing work james!!!! really good plumbing man. Great Scott!w Insane loop, what coolant are you running, distilled?


Thanks







it's a Primochill clear premix


----------



## Neo Zuko

Are you excited for the new Robocop movie?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Are you excited for the new Robocop movie?


Not a bit, it'll most likely be awful, but morbid curiosity will drag me to it


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Not a bit, it'll most likely be awful, but morbid curiosity will drag me to it


Dead or alive, you're coming to see it. LOL.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Could someone tell me what fittings and tubing are used here:


Dare I say phobya push fittings. Rebranded from something else. Very cheap on ppc. Had to grind the thread down to about half though.


----------



## Kimir

The owner did say what it is.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The actual fittings are these.
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html
> 
> 
> 
> The PEX tube you mentioned needs a small metal insert to work properly,normally Alu....copper can be found however.
> Acrylic is also fine with these fittings,there is no fixed clamping,the lock ring just stops tube coming out with those small teeth you mentioned.


You could also look into these Camozzi pneumatic fittings, we sell these here where I work.

http://www.camozzi-usa.com/sites/default/files/product_branch/usaproduct/en-us-ts1/nickel-plated-brass-push-in-fittings.pdf

Look on Page 3 at the Pro-Fit series, they're manufactured around the NPT spec but they are designed to also be usable with BSP or G due to the shortness of the thread and the O-ring that comes on the fittings.

P6510 08-04 is 1/2" OD Tubing x 1/4" NPT (or G 1/4)


----------



## GaMbi2004

Im about to pull the tricker on my acrylic project:


Pic of my setup:


Questions:
1: Should I just got for some cheaper EK HD fittings / tube?
2: Is the "silver base" all silver? as in, do I screw the silver fitting in copper blocks / brass radiators aka direct contact between copper/brass and silver? thats not good is it?
3: theme is red/black with red coolant.. what do you think would look the best? red fittings for red coolant seams boring.. and chain gun (I think they will be too big?) vs the "normal" ones..
4: 1/2 5/8 or 3/8 1/2 acrylic.. I bet the smaller 3/8 1/2 will look better, but is there a difference between difficulty of bending one vs the other?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Im about to pull the tricker on my acrylic project:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pic of my setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Questions:
> 1: Should I just got for some cheaper EK HD fittings / tube?
> 2: Is the "silver base" all silver? as in, do I screw the silver fitting in copper blocks / brass radiators aka direct contact between copper/brass and silver? thats not good is it?
> 3: theme is red/black with red coolant.. what do you think would look the best? red fittings for red coolant seams boring.. and chain gun (I think they will be too big?) vs the "normal" ones..
> 4: 1/2 5/8 or 3/8 1/2 acrylic.. I bet the smaller 3/8 1/2 will look better, but is there a difference between difficulty of bending one vs the other?


Go look back in the thread on acrylic where you posted this first, there's an answer there.


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow







, it keeps getting better.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> 3: theme is red/black with red coolant.. what do you think would look the best? red fittings for red coolant seams boring.. and chain gun (I think they will be too big?) vs the "normal" ones..


Personally I think red fittings with black coolant would fit the build best


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Go look back in the thread on acrylic where you posted this first, there's an answer there.


Yea, thx for answers








Is it bad to ask the same questions on more than one thread?
Just figured that this and the other was my two best bets for good answers


----------



## derickwm

The start of something new...


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, I don't have eLoops to say one way or another, and some who do have them like yourself say they just don't notice it, but just as many if not more have reported their eLoops get louder / buzzing almost like the blades are hitting something when used in pull. Even Blacknoise says their eLoop is not designed to be used in pull, but if you are going to use it in pull they suggest using a shroud at least 5-10 mm thick ...


I wonder if those people are using all of the rubber grommets that come with the fans. The fan blades do sit pretty flush with the encased frame. Maybe if you were to have the fans installed on top of an upper rad pulling air out of the case you'd possibly have a noise issue being that gravity will pull the blades downward closer to the rad causing it to clip the rad ever so slightly. Or maybe they're clipping the case mesh in some cases. Rubber grommets will alleviate this issue.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The start of something new...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you only have a fisheye lens? It has its place, but it is weird in PC photography.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Not a bit, it'll most likely be awful, but morbid curiosity will drag me to it


I can't stand remakes from my childhood, it's always butchered so much. Maybe I'd like them if I didn't see the original, but Total Recall was RUBBISH, too many major plot changes, plus the lead actor I don't care for, besides you can't follow Arnold and expect to live up to him. That's unpossible.

Really the same goes for Robocop, Peter Weller. Plus Kurtwood Smith won't be in it to say "*****es leave".


----------



## derickwm

Haha no I don't only have a fisheye. I just use it when lazy and I did it on purpose for that photo TO BE MYSTERIOUS


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Awesome build.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Haha no I don't only have a fisheye. I just use it when lazy and I did it on purpose for that photo TO BE MYSTERIOUS


----------



## Kimir




----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*


i didnt like those tubes
way to soft for my liking


----------



## Kurry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> The start of something new...


Great case. Project has to be awesome









I like the fisheye photo for the preview purpose


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> i didnt like those tubes
> way to soft for my liking


I love the way they look, but are kind of a pain to work with. It kinks very easily.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I love the way they look, but are kind of a pain to work with. It kinks very easily.


Is it the white text? Kind of like the tires on a sweet old muscle car?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Is it the white text? Kind of like the tires on a sweet old muscle car?












I rubbed the print off of my tygon tubing.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rubbed the print off of my tygon tubing.


I'll do that too.








May I ask how you did it?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I'll do that too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I ask how you did it?


It comes off really easily. It's almost like a chalk print. I used a rag with some rubbing alcohol on it, but it will come off just by rubbing it.









I need some cool looking, not really useful bay devices... or something. I thought I had all of the stock plates for the front of my 900D, but it seems I lost one of them.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It comes off really easily. It's almost like a chalk print. I used a rag with some rubbing alcohol on it, but it will come off just by rubbing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need some cool looking, not really useful bay devices... or something. I thought I had all of the stock plates for the front of my 900D, but it seems I lost one of them.


I would bet that if you asked Corsair to send you one they would do it for free. Maybe all you would have to do is pay for shipping. If a useless bay device is really what you want im actually interested myself.


----------



## Anoxy

I'm looking at using some of that matte black tubing for my rebuild.....is this a good choice?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10483/ex-tub-643/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_14_ID_38_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?id=Qv3qVob8&mv_pc=1191


----------



## stickg1

Well this sucks, I didn't realize that the first XSPC temp display I bought a little over a week ago was semi-defective until I installed a new one so I can easily monitor my delta water temp....

See how bright the new one is compared to the 2 week old one? That sucks, maybe the new one will fade so they match, LOL



But you know what doesn't suck? My new exhaust fan!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well this sucks, I didn't realize that the first XSPC temp display I bought a little over a week ago was semi-defective until I installed a new one so I can easily monitor my delta water temp....
> 
> See how bright the new one is compared to the 2 week old one? That sucks, maybe the new one will fade so they match, LOL
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you know what doesn't suck? My new exhaust fan!


Are you sure it's not just a different color....I know they come in a variety.


----------



## stickg1

No both are white LED. Plus I don't think they make a gray LED model.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm looking at using some of that matte black tubing for my rebuild.....is this a good choice?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10483/ex-tub-643/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_14_ID_38_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?id=Qv3qVob8&mv_pc=1191


I have been using the rubber EK black tube and they are just great:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c623/s1968/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Tubing-EK_38_x_58_Tubing-Page1.html?id=dCXvimJj&mv_pc=3960

After 6 months of use no residues on the system and they look great and are very easy to work.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rubbed the print off of my tygon tubing.


there is a joke in there somewhere...


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I have been using the rubber EK black tube and they are just great:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c623/s1968/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Tubing-EK_38_x_58_Tubing-Page1.html?id=dCXvimJj&mv_pc=3960
> 
> After 6 months of use no residues on the system and they look great and are very easy to work.


Nice. Sadly, it doesn't look like they make 1/4" ID though. Goin for a narrower tubing look this time.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well this sucks, I didn't realize that the first XSPC temp display I bought a little over a week ago was semi-defective until I installed a new one so I can easily monitor my delta water temp....
> 
> See how bright the new one is compared to the 2 week old one? That sucks, maybe the new one will fade so they match, LOL
> 
> 
> 
> But you know what doesn't suck? My new exhaust fan!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


After having multiple (and mean excess of 5 pairs) of their 3mm/5mm tailed LEDs crap out within about 4 months, I'd stay away from anything XSPC other than their blocks.

Also, to be fair, your exhaust fan is sucking air from the inside of your case to be expelled outside. So its still sucking







.


----------



## stickg1

Well it's sucking pretty hard!


----------



## brazilianloser

That moment when ya find out the drain port is useless... Darn you phobia and your worthless products...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm looking at using some of that matte black tubing for my rebuild.....is this a good choice?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10483/ex-tub-643/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_14_ID_38_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?id=Qv3qVob8&mv_pc=1191


I'm using it, it's good stuff.


----------



## wermad

I have a phobya qdc as a drain on my reservoir. Works decent and it was cheap.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I need some cool looking, not really useful bay devices... or something. I thought I had all of the stock plates for the front of my 900D, but it seems I lost one of them.


How about these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CISE8N7YtrwCFVQV7Aodp1kAzg&Item=N82E16817995093&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-SSD+%2f+HDD+Accessories-_-N82E16817995093&ef_id=UftQDQAAALI7CE1N:20140206044544:s


----------



## skupples

nice!


----------



## derickwm

New Build Log!


----------



## Etaloche

Hey there guys I am fairly new to OCN and just started my first build log couple of months ago and had some questions.

Build Log Here

Recently I finished up the loop and filled it up with Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O and let it run for about 24 hours. There was no leaks which was great news but I started seeing something build up inside my Maximus VI Impact motherboard block. It's the Bitspower full cover block for the impact.

Here's some pictures




I drained my loop and got to disassembling the block to clean it up.




Here's a closer look at the build up inside the block.





Cleaned it clean with some q-tips and polished it out.




Now it looks brand new again!



My question is does anyone know what kind of build up I'm looking at here? There were some brown streaks which I assumed was rust and some green/white spots which I assumed were algae growth or corrosion. Can all this happen within 24 hours? What should I do to prevent this in the future? I will be using Mayhems X-1 solution for the finished build. What I find weird is that I am not seeing any build up like this inside the res, GPU block and the ram block so it's exclusive to the mobo block. Maybe some residue from production causing a reaction?


----------



## Etaloche

--oops computer double posted--


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Etaloche*
> 
> Hey there guys I am fairly new to OCN and just started my first build log couple of months ago and
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> had some questions.
> 
> Build Log Here
> 
> Recently I finished up the loop and filled it up with Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O and let it run for about 24 hours. There was no leaks which was great news but I started seeing something build up inside my Maximus VI Impact motherboard block. It's the Bitspower full cover block for the impact.
> 
> Here's some pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drained my loop and got to disassembling the block to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a closer look at the build up inside the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned it clean with some q-tips and polished it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it looks brand new again!
> 
> 
> 
> My question is does anyone know what kind of build up I'm looking at here? There were some brown streaks which I assumed was rust and some green/white spots which I assumed were algae growth or corrosion. Can all this happen within 24 hours? What should I do to prevent this in the future? I will be using Mayhems X-1 solution for the finished build.


It's hard to tell. I find it hard to believe any visible growth would occur in 24 hours time. Nickel is prone to staining, but that shouldn't really happen that quick either. Staining normally looks like oil sheen, & is most visible @ the tips of the channels... @ least in my experience. I don't think cheap tubing could secrete plasticizer in that time period either.


----------



## Etaloche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's hard to tell, I don't really see much in the before pictures. I find it hard to believe any visible growth would occur in 24 hours time. Nickel is prone to staining, but that shouldn't really happen that quick either. Staining normally looks like oil sheen, & is most visible @ the tips of the channels... @ least in my experience. I don't think cheap tubing could secrete plasticizer in that time period either.


I'm using EK HD acrylic tubing so doubt it's plasticizer


----------



## skupples




----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Etaloche*
> 
> Hey there guys I am fairly new to OCN and just started my first build log couple of months ago and had some questions.
> 
> Build Log Here
> 
> Recently I finished up the loop and filled it up with Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O and let it run for about 24 hours. There was no leaks which was great news but I started seeing something build up inside my Maximus VI Impact motherboard block. It's the Bitspower full cover block for the impact.
> 
> Here's some pictures
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drained my loop and got to disassembling the block to clean it up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a closer look at the build up inside the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned it clean with some q-tips and polished it out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it looks brand new again!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My question is does anyone know what kind of build up I'm looking at here? There were some brown streaks which I assumed was rust and some green/white spots which I assumed were algae growth or corrosion. Can all this happen within 24 hours? What should I do to prevent this in the future? I will be using Mayhems X-1 solution for the finished build. What I find weird is that I am not seeing any build up like this inside the res, GPU block and the ram block so it's exclusive to the mobo block. Maybe some residue from production causing a reaction?


How thoroughly, and how, did you flush the rads before installing, looks like it could be flux residue.

Darlene


----------



## Etaloche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How thoroughly, and how, did you flush the rads before installing, looks like it could be flux residue.
> 
> Darlene


Flushed the rads with just tap water about 5 times and then twice with distilled water.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Etaloche*
> 
> Flushed the rads with just tap water about 5 times and then twice with distilled water.


Was it fairly hot water you flushed with?


----------



## GaMbi2004

and did you inspect the water after the flush? I had to flush 20-25 times before my rad was clean


----------



## Etaloche

No, I just used tap water straight out the tap just room temp. And ya I did inspect I stopped getting anything after like the 2nd flush. I guess I'll just flush them again with hot water when I'm doing final prep


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Etaloche*
> 
> Flushed the rads with just tap water about 5 times and then twice with distilled water.


I wouldn't buy into Mayhem's distilled water. Just go down to the store & pickup some 1.25$ gallons of it.

boil the water, & flush with that. Make sure you sport some gloves.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Or just buy the distilled that's safe for small appliances for .88/gal


----------



## pc-illiterate

im a bit unhappy with swiftechs packaging.
i ordered the 35x-res and got it today. the g1/4 attaching fitting was loose and scratched the inside of the res. it now has a lot of micro-scratches around the inside of the res. most arent bad but there are a couple i would be concerned about if the acrylic werent as thick as it is. the dark of my case and not having a window should help hide it from prying and judgmental eyes.
the added flat spot for the g1/4 in and outlets has machining marks around the bottom port.

    

as far as the pump top goes, its a good solid looking top without any defects that i see. the only thing im puzzled about is bramsli said the top is tapped for 8-32 threads for pump attachment. the 8 screws they sent are plain old coarse threaded screws. i ordered the ek ddc anti-vibration mounting screws. they look like they should work without a problem. i dont have my thread pitch gauge anymore but it looks about right and screws in effortlessly for the first 4 full turns. i will test this out later.
nope, wont work. the ek screws are too long by about 1/4". i could cut the screws down but i would rather just use them as part of a mount. i can fashion a decent 1 up no problem.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I have been using the rubber EK black tube and they are just great:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c623/s1968/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Tubing-EK_38_x_58_Tubing-Page1.html?id=dCXvimJj&mv_pc=3960
> 
> After 6 months of use no residues on the system and they look great and are very easy to work.


Thanks this stuff looks great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well it's sucking pretty hard!


lmao
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> How about these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CISE8N7YtrwCFVQV7Aodp1kAzg&Item=N82E16817995093&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-SSD+%2f+HDD+Accessories-_-N82E16817995093&ef_id=UftQDQAAALI7CE1N:20140206044544:s


Haha I too thought of that when skupples first asked and have had one of those lying around for ages. Actually pretty useful for important screws and fittings and thumb drives and the like . Will be putting it into my server box now as just freed up a couple bays (was water cooled too with old parts actually but sold the whole cpu loop for $140 recently).

Skupp you could go totally old skool and get that one ancient bay device with the cigarette lighter too lol


----------



## mrinfinit3

Work in progress:



Plus a lil' chiller action:


----------



## ozzy1925

i just got my some of my cooling products from fcpu


whwn i checked inside the ut 60 i just see this

is this normal?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i just got my some of my cooling products from fcpu
> 
> 
> whwn i checked inside the ut 60 i just see this
> 
> is this normal?


Yes, it's normal, the grey stuff is the solder used to hold things together, and the white stuff is the leftovers from the flux used in the soldering process. Give the rad a good rinse and your good to go!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i just got my some of my cooling products from fcpu
> 
> 
> whwn i checked inside the ut 60 i just see this
> 
> is this normal?


Yes,its normal oxidization of the brass/copper.
The grey is solder.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, it's normal, the grey stuff is the solder used to hold things together, and the white stuff is the leftovers from the flux used in the soldering process. Give the rad a good rinse and your good to go!!!


thanks alot i was really worried and btw got my novus scratch remover kit too


----------



## mistacheese

Noob question, I have the Alphacool XT45 360 and the UT60 280. I didn't realize that it didn't include the stop plugs when I ordered, (I actually was sure they did include them, but whatever). I also would like to add fill and drain ports so I have added a Bitspower 5 way, and will add the Bitspower ball valve to it. I have bought all 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD Bitspower single, dual and triple rotary fittings, but I'm being thrown off by the term "g1/4". Does that imply a 1/4" hole?

Question 1) Are these the right stop plugs for both rads and the 5 way?

Question 2) When planning drain port, am I right to take lowest tube in system and add the 5 way, have it set up as straight though flow with one fitting on the bottom with the ball valve there?

Question 3) When planning fill port do I include a ball valve, or just this and connect it into an open port on my top radiator?

Thank to anyone able to help steer me in the right direction here.

Cheese


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistacheese*
> 
> Noob question, I have the Alphacool XT45 360 and the UT60 280. I didn't realize that it didn't include the stop plugs when I ordered, (I actually was sure they did include them, but whatever). I also would like to add fill and drain ports so I have added a Bitspower 5 way, and will add the Bitspower ball valve to it. I have bought all 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD Bitspower single, dual and triple rotary fittings, but I'm being thrown off by the term "g1/4". Does that imply a 1/4" hole?
> 
> Question 1) Are these the right stop plugs for both rads and the 5 way?
> 
> Question 2) When planning drain port, am I right to take lowest tube in system and add the 5 way, have it set up as straight though flow with one fitting on the bottom with the ball valve there?
> 
> Question 3) When planning fill port do I include a ball valve, or just this and connect it into an open port on my top radiator?
> 
> Thank to anyone able to help steer me in the right direction here.
> 
> Cheese


The rads should have come with stop fittings (they are all copper if I recall correctly) for the 45 and 60 mm versions of OCool. Have you got those rads new or used? g 1/4 is the most common standard for fittings in rads and blocks these days so you are safe buying those.

1) yes those are the correct stop fittings
2) take the lowest part of your system and do the drain port there. Example if you xt45 is the lowest part you might use the upper ports to route your tubes and the lowest rad openings to install your drain port. You can use a t-line but actually you can also do a drain port without it in such situation.
3) no you don´t need a t or 4 or 5 way adapter for the fill port just like you don´t necessarily need for a drain (like my example in question 2 above). That link for the female pass through would work just fine if installed on the upper port of your top rad with a stop fitting in it.

hope that helps


----------



## mistacheese

Gabrielzm, wow! Thank you a ton for that quick and detail response.

These were brand new radiators, weird eh? Oh well, it's not worth the shipping and headache to correct, plus these plugs look better.

My case is the 750D, my loop will be the XT45 at top of case, and the UT60 at the front of the case. The res is a Photon 170 with D5 combo unit, and it is beside the UT60. Do you suggest I mount the UT60 with ports at the bottom, then just install the drain port right off the rad? I don't have a plan for the rad being flat on the bottom, so I need to figure this out another way.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistacheese*
> 
> Gabrielzm, wow! Thank you a ton for that quick and detail response.
> 
> These were brand new radiators, weird eh? Oh well, it's not worth the shipping and headache to correct, plus these plugs look better.
> 
> My case is the 750D, my loop will be the XT45 at top of case, and the UT60 at the front of the case. The res is a Photon 170 with D5 combo unit, and it is beside the UT60. Do you suggest I mount the UT60 with ports at the bottom, then just install the drain port right off the rad? I don't have a plan for the rad being flat on the bottom, so I need to figure this out another way.


That is really weird.... both rads should have come with the stop plugs. Where did you buy it? You are welcome mate glad was useful. Did your UT60 come with six ports or seven? Some versions of it come with 6 ports (top, bottom, side) at one end and another opening at the other end of the rad. If came with 7 you can use the one at the other end for the drain. If not you can always place the rad with the ports at the bottom and then place your drain there as you figure yourself.










edit - BTW, have you check inside the rads box for that brown small paper box inside where the screws are? The fittings in Ocool rads usually are there along with the screws....


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah my recently purchased AC rads came with extra copper plugs in a bag in the box.


----------



## skupples

Yupp, they should come with 5 copper stop plugs.


----------



## ccRicers

Is it just me or are the XSPC 90 degree fittings getting a lot harder to find? I can't find them in stock in several stores that have a decent selection of cooling products, so I had to go to eBay to get two more for a reasonable price.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Sweet, thanks. Seems like you haven't updated your build log in a while, but you posted finished (?) photos of it in the EK thread. Any plans to update it? I absolutely adore your build.


I bought a house, then spent 3 months building fence/pasture, then the holidays came around, now I'm in the process of rebuilding one of the rooms as an office, and well.....

It kind of fell off my priority list.

I did get some new sleeved cables for my Seasonic 860 Plat though.



Hopefully I should be finishing it within a month or two.

And of course, because us enthusiasts just overwhelm ourselves with possible projects, I had to jump on a LD PC-V7 that happened to be for sale locally.


----------



## mistacheese

Wow, I'm an idiot. What I assumed at a quick glance was just the screws, (as that is all that it says is inside it on the screw box) also contains the copper plugs. Thanks a lot guys, this means I can at least clean the rads while I wait for the rest of the parts!

Sorry for wasting anyones time.

Cheese


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I did get some new sleeved cables for my Seasonic 860 Plat though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Totally stealing this idea. I've never seen the wires individually sleeved like that.


----------



## derickwm

I think Lutro0 has a guide on how to do it.


----------



## skupples

I hear lutro0 even has a guide to life... Don't quote me on that though.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I hear lutro0 even has a guide to life... Don't quote me on that though.


I've read it, his guides are awesome.


----------



## skupples

ha, I went to move the rig into it's desk home. I then noticed it was missing two sticks of ram, I then noticed they didn't fit... Had to do a quick drain & change a route... woot, now I have to bleed it again.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *lowfat* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I did get some new sleeved cables for my Seasonic 860 Plat though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








> Totally stealing this idea. I've never seen the wires individually sleeved like that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I think Lutro0 has a guide on how to do it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I hear lutro0 even has a guide to life... Don't quote me on that though.


Yeah Lutro's guides have taught me everything i know about crimping, sleeving, and making custom wires









I think @lowfat was referring to how he has it sleeved with 3 seperate cables like that. I'm planning on sleeving my PSU cord at the end of my build like Lutro's guide taught me, I really like the way @Michalius did his tho. I might have to steal that idea as well


----------



## skupples

I need to fashion something out of wood that will hold my case @ a 45 degree angle, on X & Y axis. Basically allow it to stand on one leg.

who knew the cpu to VRM section would be such an air hog.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Update:
God this is going to take HOURS to bleed out!
Anyway here are a few pics...Will take better ones once my wife "allows" me to use her camera


Yes; I installed LEDs into my GPUs



I'm thinking I should add an LEd to my res... what do you guys think?? I think it's a lil' dark...but don't know if it's "too much"

Well, I did drill a small hole (4mm) next to the "fill port" on the res while making it. Just in case I wanted to add in an LED or not... Since the liquid itself is now insanely dark "Blood Red"(literally) non-UV I was thinking of adding in a single white LED to enhance the effect. Would like to go with "red" but feel that the liquid would be too dark for a red led to penetrate...
Have a "tinted" side panel, so it's hard to tell.

*edit*
Also debating whether or not to add in a couple red LED's to the skull's eyes on that SLI bridge.

So looking for opinions here...


----------



## Ithanul

Finally got CLU for my delid, so I got my lazy butt to clean the CPU, and mount the Raystorm block.




Now to finish the rest of the modding of the case. Though, really need to find a local sheet metal store.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Finally got CLU for my delid, so I got my lazy butt to clean the CPU, and mount the Raystorm block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to finish the rest of the modding of the case. Though, really need to find a local sheet metal store.


If you live near a Lowes or Home Depot type of store, check them out for sheet metal. I picked up a sheet from Lowes for cheap not too long ago.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> If you live near a Lowes or Home Depot type of store, check them out for sheet metal. I picked up a sheet from Lowes for cheap not too long ago.


Thanky, hopefully Lowes has a good long piece. Just need a extra piece to put in the 915F stacker to cover up all those holes in its bottom.


----------



## ozzy1925

last night i flushed my rads 2 times with hot tap water and 1 time with distilled water they looked very clean.I would like to know i wont be using these rads till i get all my parts which will take 2-3 months.I emptied all water i can inside but of course the inside of the rads still wet ,the remaning water will make corrsion after some time?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> last night i flushed my rads 2 times with hot tap water and 1 time with distilled water they looked very clean.I would like to know i wont be using these rads till i get all my parts which will take 2-3 months.I emptied all water i can inside but of course the inside of the rads still wet ,the remaning water will make corrsion after some time?


It shouldn't, just don't put plugs in the ports, that way the left over water can escape when it evaporates!!


----------



## PinzaC55

Hi everybody, I haven't done much PC work for a long time now but I recently acquired a second GTX 690 which is already watercooled with an EK FC690 block as is my original 690 as seen in this photo of my current rig. The problem is that I have looked at photo's of the EK serial and parallel connectors and it appears that they have have two holes on the bottom and one on the side. Is there any way to get one with 2 holes on the right hand side so that when I place the GPU in Slot 3 I can simply plug the tubes in with minimal alteration? I suppose the only other possibility is to have 1 90 degree elbow coming out of each GPU with a tube between them?

To be more specific, this is what I mean


----------



## VSG

So I finally put together my loop and put in water inside my res only to have it leak from one of the bottom side ports which I am using as the return back to the res. I took it apart and tested the res and the parts immediately attached outside but no leak there. Any idea what might be happening? The leak is either from the side port itself or from the rotary 45 degree fitting attached to it.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I finally put together my loop and put in water inside my res only to have it leak from one of the bottom side ports which I am using as the return back to the res. I took it apart and tested the res and the parts immediately attached outside but no leak there. Any idea what might be happening? The leak is either from the side port itself or from the rotary 45 degree fitting attached to it.


Some rotaries can leak if there is too much pressure on the joint, like the flex from the tubing pushing against the rotary.


----------



## VSG

No tubing there, just the rotary and a Bitspower snake on the other end going to a valve and so forth. I configured the snake to give as little pressure on the rotary as possible but still nothing. Now my fingers are complaining big time so I have to take a break


----------



## Gabrielzm

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="PinzaC55" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/60920#post_21736774"]Hi everybody, I haven't done much PC work for a long time now but I recently acquired a second GTX 690 which is already watercooled with an EK FC690 block as is my original 690 as seen in this photo of my current rig. The problem is that I have looked at photo's of the EK serial and parallel connectors and it appears that they have have two holes on the bottom and one on the side. Is there any way to get one with 2 holes on the right hand side so that when I place the GPU in Slot 3 I can simply plug the tubes in with minimal alteration? I suppose the only other possibility is to have 1 90 degree elbow coming out of each GPU with a tube between them?

To be more specific, this is what I mean
[/quote]



The ek bridge (if properly selected to match your card block and the spacing in your mobo) should fit perfectly without the need of extra tubing. Depending on your block you have to remove the original g 1/4 piece so that the bridge screw in to the cards.


----------



## lowfat

First draft of my tubing. Will redo a couple of the runs but unfortunately I need to grab more tubing. Used 16 feet of it for mistakes and what you see here.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-57-2.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-60-2.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-58-2.jpg.html


----------



## SinatraFan

Lowfat.... that build is PHAT! Looks great


----------



## sebar

lowfat, this looks great, I have two questions. First, which runs need redone? they look good in the pics.














Second, did you frost the res or did it come like that? It looks wicked.


----------



## 15goudreau

That is super sexy. Can't wait to start working with acrylic myself


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebar*
> 
> lowfat, this looks great, I have two questions. First, which runs need redone? they look good in the pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second, did you frost the res or did it come like that? It looks wicked.


Thanks.

Thanks y'all. The top rad to GPU has damage from a kink. The CPU to GPU one has a small kink to the straight portion of the tubing.

It is a Koolance 770ml 80mm OD reservoir. Wet sanded it w/ 400 grit to give it a brushed frosted look.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The res does look good frosted for once


----------



## VSG

Leak testing in progress, so far so good. I will have to drain out the fluid and replace it with fresh distilled water/Liquid Utopia before another round of leak testing and bleeding so I should be done in time for the weekend









Bleeding this was a huge pain and so I am grateful for the bitspower air exhaust as well as the Aquaero 6. I am still unconvinced about a big bubble stuck near the CPU block though.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It shouldn't, just don't put plugs in the ports, that way the left over water can escape when it evaporates!!


is it safe to store them with open ports this time dust will be my enemy?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is it safe to store them with open ports this time dust will be my enemy?


Leave two ports open, and make sure they are facing downward while being stored so that dust can't fall into them!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Leak testing in progress, so far so good. I will have to drain out the fluid and replace it with fresh distilled water/Liquid Utopia before another round of leak testing and bleeding so I should be done in time for the weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bleeding this was a huge pain and so I am grateful for the bitspower air exhaust as well as the Aquaero 6. I am still unconvinced about a big bubble stuck near the CPU block though.


Looking good!

You should be able to hear any air in that part of the loop. It will sound like a fish tank bubbling sound, or something along those lines. Bleeding my loop was a major PITA as well, even though I filled the front rad & top rad. It still takes a good 2-3 hours to get all of the air bubbles out, which requires allot of shaking & tilting & so forth. The aquaero is great for this as you can get the pump speed just right, so that it's pushing out the air, but not allowing the pumps to suck it right back up.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I am taking a break for lunch at the moment and then I will drain out the water and put in a fresh batch of coolant. Too bad I will have to repeat all the bleeding process then, so hopefully that SysPrep thing was worth it. I was also surprised it took only about half a gallon for my loop which includes that 480 Monsta apart from another 480 rad.


----------



## stickg1

@geggeg - mmmm shining silver! Me likey!


----------



## VSG

I figured you would


----------



## Anoxy

Do any of you have experience with the Aquatuning fittings such as these?

I like the industrial look and the price is definitely right. But I don't want to end up "getting what I payed for"


----------



## wermad

Old school fittings. You going w/ 1/4" id or modding a CLS (ie H50)?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I figured you would


I need more shining silver. Got any extras?!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Leave two ports open, and make sure they are facing downward while being stored so that dust can't fall into them!!


yea i did that and put them in to their package


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Old school fittings. You going w/ 1/4" id or modding a CLS (ie H50)?


G 1/4....transplanting my sig rig into a Caselabs sm8. If they're poor quality, I might just hold out for some silver bitspower I suppose.


----------



## randoman

I thought I'd share a few pics, of my nearly finished rig. There are a few odds and ends to do as well as cables. So here's my Enthoo.


----------



## Archea47

Hey gang,

I'm banging around some ideas for switching up the coolant color on my loop while I rethink the routing & airflow and add a drain. Here's the current configuration:



Configuration options I'm planning:

Fans: Pull down from the top rad into the case instead of pushing out to provide cooler air to the ST30 on top. I currently have the rear fan as an intake to alleviate this issue
Route: Go from pump -> top rad -> CPU instead of pump -> top rad -> NB -> VRM -> CPU. I have a lot of headroom with the NB and VRM but not the CPU as far as thermals

Options I'm considering:

Fans: Side panel fans. One of the side panels of my case has ventilation and mounting for two fans that would roughly cover the video card area. I currently have it on the motherboard tray side of the case because I was concerned about the venting in the open area killing air velocity. Adding fans there would be nice, despite the pain of disconnecting them each time I take the door off, as it may provide some more cooling for the air-fed GPUs

Coolant: So I went with the red, despite not really liking red, because the EVGA power supply has those bright red PCI-E cables. Supposedly the connectors at the PSU side are proprietary and I'm not interested in sleeving cables myself. To offset the out of place red cables I used some red dye in distilled water with a bit of glycol to match them. I would much prefer to run white or gold. I would get either black/white or black/tan PCIE cable extensions to remove most of the visible red cabling. The only gold I've found is mayhem's aurora which reading suggests is not suitable for a production system. Mayhem's Pastel Icy White is right up my alley, but I'm concerned about potential performance penalties.

So my questions ...

1.) With both rads as intake to the case can I blow air from the side panel vent at the GPUs or will there be too much pressure in the case? The only exhausting fans are the PSU and the 120 by the rear motherboard I/O. There are also currently ventilated PCI slot blanks that came with the case. I would have replaced them with solid ones already for velocity purposes but have been concerned about airflow to the cards, which don't actually exhaust but should be solved by the vent fan.

2.) Do you imagine the routing change would have a measurable difference? What about going from distilled to mayhem pastel concentrate + distilled? 2*C does make a difference to me, but I imagine I could dilute the pastel beyond the directions (?)

3.) Any other ideas for color schemes? I don't intend to replace or extend more cables than the PCIEs as I'd rather not spend more than $100 for aesthetics and the pastel + extensions is already ~$75 from FCPU


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> G 1/4....transplanting my sig rig into a Caselabs sm8. If they're poor quality, I might just hold out for some silver bitspower I suppose.


G1/4 is the thread size. Its the most common size for wc. "ID" is inner diameter of the tube which determines your fitting size (and the od for compression).


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I need more shining silver. Got any extras?!


lol of course I do. I did a pretty good job using up most of my parts though, but PM me and we can see


----------



## jamaican voodoo

trifire 290s build done


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randoman*
> 
> I thought I'd share a few pics, of my nearly finished rig. There are a few odds and ends to do as well as cables. So here's my Enthoo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh hell yeah dude! We're MSI black and yellow, matching exhaust fan bros 4 l1fe!!!!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randoman*
> 
> I thought I'd share a few pics, of my nearly finished rig. There are a few odds and ends to do as well as cables. So here's my Enthoo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/spoiler


System looks great there! One little thing though, the color of those two smaller fans being different draws your eye (at least it did mine) to them...... But still a really nice looking system.


----------



## Jakewat

My attempt at making a backplate for my 770. It is unfinished I just wanted to test fit it and make sure all the holes lined up







.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/WP_20140208_12_42_32_Pro_zpsc0d35139.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/WP_20140208_12_42_40_Pro_zps5ae68a47.jpg.html
Ghetto washer stacking
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/WP_20140208_12_44_35_Pro_zpsfbcc86fa.jpg.html

One quick question about this though. I am going to vinyl wrap it instead of paint it in an attempt to make sure the is no conductive contact between the card and back plate and was wondering if the vinyl would completely stop it conducting. Just an extra safety precaution even though the back plate is making no contact.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Leak testing in progress, so far so good. I will have to drain out the fluid and replace it with fresh distilled water/Liquid Utopia before another round of leak testing and bleeding so I should be done in time for the weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bleeding this was a huge pain and so I am grateful for the bitspower air exhaust as well as the Aquaero 6. I am still unconvinced about a big bubble stuck near the CPU block though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randoman*
> 
> I thought I'd share a few pics, of my nearly finished rig. There are a few odds and ends to do as well as cables. So here's my Enthoo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> trifire 290s build done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice builds guys....


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> My attempt at making a backplate for my 770. It is unfinished I just wanted to test fit it and make sure all the holes lined up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/WP_20140208_12_42_32_Pro_zpsc0d35139.jpg.html
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/WP_20140208_12_42_40_Pro_zps5ae68a47.jpg.html
> Ghetto washer stacking
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/WP_20140208_12_44_35_Pro_zpsfbcc86fa.jpg.html
> 
> One quick question about this though. I am going to vinyl wrap it instead of paint it in an attempt to make sure the is no conductive contact between the card and back plate and was wondering if the vinyl would completely stop it conducting. Just an extra safety precaution even though the back plate is making no contact.


sadly no , it wont stop it because you cant wrap the "hole" where the screw will pass through

what u can do is , put some of those plastic washers , that would do the trick







(i think there are some anti static washers out there or maybe thats the point of the washer )

EDIT:

told ya http://www.moddiy.com/products/Anti%252dStatic-M3-Red-Paper-Washers.html

now go , my son , mod till your fingers bleed !!!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> G1/4 is the thread size. Its the most common size for wc. "ID" is inner diameter of the tube which determines your fitting size (and the od for compression).


Oh, yeah I know that. I don't know why I thought you were asking about g1/4....in any case, yes 1/4" ID is what I was thinking. I'm gonna try out the narrow tube look for my re-build to sort of emulate an acrylic look.

No comments/experience with the fittings though?c


----------



## Jakewat

@yoi
the screws are already covered by plastic washers so that's fine, I just needed to make sure there is no contact between the soldering on the PCB and the large areas of the backplate


----------



## randoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh hell yeah dude! We're MSI black and yellow, matching exhaust fan bros 4 l1fe!!!!
> 
> Cheers budy, what do you think of them? I'm running 6 140mm's and 6 120mm's running at 5v cooling an i5 4670k @ 4.2 / 1.015v and my temps have never reached 50 degrees.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> System looks great there! One little thing though, the color of those two smaller fans being different draws your eye (at least it did mine) to them...... But still a really nice looking system.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh hell yeah dude! We're MSI black and yellow, matching exhaust fan bros 4 l1fe!!!!


Cheers mate, yea those fans are the one thing that needs replacing, Coolink do 4 or 5 different 80mm fans and only 1 of them is yellow, the others are more green, but I ordered the wrong ones.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> trifire 290s build done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey! I wanted to thank you for the tips I learned from your video log. Got my Blackhawk Ultra last week and I should be finished this weekend (hopefully). Was very tempted to go w/ a monsta 420 and 280s but I went w/ the UT60s and push/pull w/ some lovely cougar 140mm fans.

Your build looks awesome











Spoiler: My build progress:


----------



## skupples

I have it in blue mode right now because it was easier to get a lazy photo out of her. Though about linking a picture in green as tribute to Wermad...

hmm, funny... that pump looks crooked in the picture... It isn't IRL though, i think it's because the sticker is crooked.

By the way... Has anyone seen a waterblock roundup that has a First Gen Titan Block Vs. Second Gen Titan block? If you didn't even know this existed...


----------



## derickwm

Stren's roundup has both blocks :thumb:

There are actually 3 revisions as well. The "Titan" was for Titan, the "Titan SE" was for Titan & GTX780 and now the 780 Ti is for the Titan, 780 and 780 Ti.


----------



## stickg1

Anyone have a 780 with block they'd be interested in selling pm me!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Please vote!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1465435/poll-please-vote-for-the-case-used-in-my-next-build


----------



## VSG

Hey guys, quick help please- I did a leak test and then attached all the cables to the system and turned it on but now there is a loud noise coming from somewhere. It is either from the pump or the Aquaero high flow sensor but there was no noise like this before. Any idea what's going on? Is my pump running on an air bubble? Thanks!


----------



## sinnedone

MCP35x owners, question about pwm.

IS it hit or miss between different motherboards or pwm implementations? I ask because on my motherboard at 60% the pump still spun at close to max speed.(4400 rpm) After that it started slowing down to 25% that gave me 1500rpm.

Another quick question, Anyone know of any tops that would let me unite a frozen reservoir or am I stuck with like a 1/4 male/male adapter? If that's the only way has anyone used it this way and has it worked out well?

Thanks


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have it in blue mode right now because it was easier to get a lazy photo out of her. Though about linking a picture in green as tribute to Wermad...
> 
> hmm, funny... that pump looks crooked in the picture... It isn't IRL though, i think it's because the sticker is crooked.
> 
> By the way... Has anyone seen a waterblock roundup that has a First Gen Titan Block Vs. Second Gen Titan block? If you didn't even know this existed...






Some rigs just look good with neoprene. And this is one of the few.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey guys, quick help please- I did a leak test and then attached all the cables to the system and turned it on but now there is a loud noise coming from somewhere. It is either from the pump or the Aquaero high flow sensor but there was no noise like this before. Any idea what's going on? Is my pump running on an air bubble? Thanks!


ROFL nvm, it was the magnetic fan filter on the bottom of the 900D that was getting sucked into the radiator fans. Problem solved








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> MCP35x owners, question about pwm.
> 
> IS it hit or miss between different motherboards or pwm implementations? I ask because on my motherboard at 60% the pump still spun at close to max speed.(4400 rpm) After that it started slowing down to 25% that gave me 1500rpm.
> 
> Another quick question, Anyone know of any tops that would let me unite a frozen reservoir or am I stuck with like a 1/4 male/male adapter? If that's the only way has anyone used it this way and has it worked out well?
> 
> Thanks


I just installed in the 35x and you are right- 60% is about full speed and it goes down to about 15-20% (1000-1200 rpm or so). I guess the Aquaero has more control than a motherboard but that's about it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Stren's roundup has both blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are actually 3 revisions as well. The "Titan" was for Titan, the "Titan SE" was for Titan & GTX780 and now the 780 Ti is for the Titan, 780 and 780 Ti.


I figured it was something along those lines when looking @ the elongated VRM stand offs & what not. thx D.

FC-TITAN-SE is the ones I have, which i'm assuming is the 780Ti variant, as the pom top has the cutout for the extra cap.

Interesting that stren's testing shows the original block is still #1 for VRM & Vram.


----------



## Anoxy

Anyone know how many 30mm screws the RX360 comes with?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Anyone know how many 30mm screws the RX360 comes with?


12


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I'm banging around some ideas for switching up the coolant color on my loop while I rethink the routing & airflow and add a drain. Here's the current configuration:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Configuration options I'm planning:
> 
> Fans: Pull down from the top rad into the case instead of pushing out to provide cooler air to the ST30 on top. I currently have the rear fan as an intake to alleviate this issue
> Route: Go from pump -> top rad -> CPU instead of pump -> top rad -> NB -> VRM -> CPU. I have a lot of headroom with the NB and VRM but not the CPU as far as thermals
> 
> Options I'm considering:
> 
> Fans: Side panel fans. One of the side panels of my case has ventilation and mounting for two fans that would roughly cover the video card area. I currently have it on the motherboard tray side of the case because I was concerned about the venting in the open area killing air velocity. Adding fans there would be nice, despite the pain of disconnecting them each time I take the door off, as it may provide some more cooling for the air-fed GPUs
> 
> Coolant: So I went with the red, despite not really liking red, because the EVGA power supply has those bright red PCI-E cables. Supposedly the connectors at the PSU side are proprietary and I'm not interested in sleeving cables myself. To offset the out of place red cables I used some red dye in distilled water with a bit of glycol to match them. I would much prefer to run white or gold. I would get either black/white or black/tan PCIE cable extensions to remove most of the visible red cabling. The only gold I've found is mayhem's aurora which reading suggests is not suitable for a production system. Mayhem's Pastel Icy White is right up my alley, but I'm concerned about potential performance penalties.
> 
> So my questions ...
> 
> 1.) With both rads as intake to the case can I blow air from the side panel vent at the GPUs or will there be too much pressure in the case? The only exhausting fans are the PSU and the 120 by the rear motherboard I/O. There are also currently ventilated PCI slot blanks that came with the case. I would have replaced them with solid ones already for velocity purposes but have been concerned about airflow to the cards, which don't actually exhaust but should be solved by the vent fan.
> 
> 2.) Do you imagine the routing change would have a measurable difference? What about going from distilled to mayhem pastel concentrate + distilled? 2*C does make a difference to me, but I imagine I could dilute the pastel beyond the directions (?)
> 
> 3.) Any other ideas for color schemes? I don't intend to replace or extend more cables than the PCIEs as I'd rather not spend more than $100 for aesthetics and the pastel + extensions is already ~$75 from FCPU


Okay, I drew up the new plan



Changes:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Making the CPU the first block in the loop
Adding the 120mm ST30
Changing the 280mm ST30 to intake instead of exhaust
Adding two 120mm exhaust fans on the side panel vent



Things I need to figure out:

*Expected performance loss from idea of using mayhems pastel concentrate and distilled water* versus just distilled + a bit of glycol and dye

*Good way to handle wiring for removable side panel case fans* 2x120mm (traditional panel-to-case mounting on the Corsair 400R, no pivot)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> MCP35x owners, question about pwm.
> 
> IS it hit or miss between different motherboards or pwm implementations? I ask because on my motherboard at 60% the pump still spun at close to max speed.(4400 rpm) After that it started slowing down to 25% that gave me 1500rpm.


Absolutely normal. I find that 30% is enough flow/turbulence for single rad + CPU + GPU, up to 40% with two rads or heavy load.


----------



## ozzy1925

i checked the radiator fins today and saw some black spots near the fins :


are they welding spots?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> MCP35x owners, question about pwm.
> 
> IS it hit or miss between different motherboards or pwm implementations? I ask because on my motherboard at 60% the pump still spun at close to max speed.(4400 rpm) After that it started slowing down to 25% that gave me 1500rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely normal. I find that 30% is enough flow/turbulence for single rad + CPU + GPU, up to 40% with two rads or heavy load.
Click to expand...

This 30% figure is right in the sweet spot . . .

I've tested quite a few of the 35X's with calibrated PWM controllers, and the slope is typically steeper than what they publish.

Most samples were at max speed by 50%, with a few outliers that needed closer to 60% for max.

Never saw one that needed more than 60% for max yet.

On the low side, I saw min speed typically between 15% and 20%, usually closer to 20, but none slowed down any more from 15% down to 0.

Fans, OTOH, have a much flatter slope, some still barely turning at ~5% or so, and not at max until 90%+ ish.

If you're going to control a pump(s) from the mobo, you need to set the curve a lot different than for a fan.

If you plan a min of 20% and a max of 40%, that will stay right in the most usable range of pump speeds.

If the changing speed sounds annoys you . . . set fixed speeds and find the lowest one that gives good temps, and leave it there.

Darlene


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hey! I wanted to thank you for the tips I learned from your video log. Got my Blackhawk Ultra last week and I should be finished this weekend (hopefully). Was very tempted to go w/ a monsta 420 and 280s but I went w/ the UT60s and push/pull w/ some lovely cougar 140mm fans.
> 
> Your build looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: My build progress:


thank you wermad...i see the bulid is coming along nicely!!...let me know if their's something i can help ya with


----------



## sinnedone

Thanks guys and gal.









I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't some sort of compatability issue with my motherboards pwm implementation.

Now I just need to figure out if there's any pump tops that will let me mount a frozenq res with the least amount of fittings. They should make a pump top for their reservoirs, lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i checked the radiator fins today and saw some black spots near the fins :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are they welding spots?


something like that, it's absolutely normal.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

My reservoir setup is a little unorthodox, but I finally arranged the components in a way so that it works. I'm just glad I can put it behind me and get to the rest of my build.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2000.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This 30% figure is right in the sweet spot . . .
> 
> I've tested quite a few of the 35X's with calibrated PWM controllers, and the slope is typically steeper than what they publish.
> 
> Most samples were at max speed by 50%, with a few outliers that needed closer to 60% for max.
> 
> Never saw one that needed more than 60% for max yet.
> 
> On the low side, I saw min speed typically between 15% and 20%, usually closer to 20, but none slowed down any more from 15% down to 0.
> 
> Darlene


Not sure how calibrated my Aquaero is but my 35x goes from about 16 to 64% and I am glad for that range.


----------



## skupples

Iv'e noticed that these pumps definitely have a "lottery" one of them goes faster than the other, just by a hair, & is almost impossible to perfectly match the speeds which causes some pitch wobble, but you can only hear it when the fans are running @ super low speeds.


----------



## johnnybra

And backplate is WIP





I'm not sure if it will be iluminated in the final version.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I has been working on lighting also....











Aluminum profile painted with opal cover.


----------



## sinnedone

Nice diffuser, where did you pick that up?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Good idea B Neg... I made do the same, so that my lighting doesn't look too polarized. Those diffusers kind of soften the light up a bit. I would imagine a thin layer of translucent plastic or a stiff piece of rice paper would do the trick.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Good idea B Neg... I made do the same, so that my lighting doesn't look too polarized. Those diffusers kind of soften the light up a bit. I would imagine a thin layer of translucent plastic or a stiff piece of rice paper would do the trick.


I got frosted and Opal.










Opal










Frosted


----------



## ProfeZZor X

The opal breaks up the spaces between the LEDs a bit more, whereas you're getting those intervals of light with the frosted. But I suppose it all depends on the type of lighting effects you're trying to achieve within your build.


----------



## stickg1

Nice, you got some grow lights? How many plants you reckon you can get going in there? Crop sharing perhaps?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> something like that, it's absolutely normal.


thanks


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I got frosted and Opal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Frosted


Where did you get those from? Really like those.


----------



## grifftech

Somewhat new here, joined in October but finally got around to building my first attempt at a wc rig. Be nice


----------



## GaMbi2004

Looks amazing dude! Good job








You should add your rig to your signature so we can see what you got in there


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Somewhat new here, joined in October but finally got around to building my first attempt at a wc rig. Be nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking setup, and you should add your rig to you sig so we can see what all there is!!

Just curious why you have those extra rings on the tubing from the VRM block to the CPU?? I'm guessing to keep it from kinking?


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Nice looking setup, and you should add your rig to you sig so we can see what all there is!!
> 
> Just curious why you have those extra rings on the tubing from the VRM block to the CPU?? I'm guessing to keep it from kinking?


Hehe I mentioned that in the Enthoo thread. Those are my anti-kink fittings







The radius was just to tight and the tube started to kink and since that part of the Monsoon fitting had the same ID as the tube's OD it worked perfect to stop the kink. Rigid tubing will be in my future, but for now those will do


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Looks amazing dude! Good job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should add your rig to your signature so we can see what you got in there


As soon as I figure out how to I will


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> As soon as I figure out how to I will


http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig


----------



## stickg1

I got a new rad today! Thanks Jim!

Also in typical stickg1 fashion I re-did about half my runs because I thought they looked better this way.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I got a new rad today! Thanks Jim!
> 
> Also in typical stickg1 fashion I re-did about half my runs because I thought they looked better this way.


Looking good!!! Glad you like the rad!!


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I got frosted and Opal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opal
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Frosted
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really dig this bneg. I've been planning a similar system for an upcoming build using frosted acrylic, but this is actually a lot cleaner than what I had in mine. Great job


----------



## Trolle BE

i have/had a weird problem with my loop

so i was adding more fans to my rad(a xt45)
i put the fans on top of my case without a problem so i started replacinng the bottom row of fans
when i unscrewed the first fan suddenly some coolant dripped down,so i immediatly shut down my pc and got some paper towels to catch the drops.
i checked my rad but the screws cant get into the rad itself anyway i looked at it.
so i plugged my pc back in and let it run for a few hours but i saw no more drops from that location.
so i wonder where they came from,with those screw protectors i cant damage the tubes nor the fins and i use a bayreservoir so the coolant get on the exterior of my rad

im so confused right now


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I got a new rad today! Thanks Jim!
> 
> Also in typical stickg1 fashion I re-did about half my runs because I thought they looked better this way.


I commend your will to re-do that sort of thing constantly, Whenever I put together something/ secure something I dread forgetting something small because I hate to have to take it apart agian







.
Also, when are we going to see these cables sleeved? It's like the one thing that's stopping this build from being perf.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I got a new rad today! Thanks Jim!
> 
> Also in typical stickg1 fashion I re-did about half my runs because I thought they looked better this way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good,but i bet you are going to find an excuse to redo your loop in a couple days....


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well stick if you got a new rad and _didn't_ redo at least some routing I'd be worried you weren't feeling yourself. Hell, without a new rad; it has to have been at least a week...lol.


----------



## grifftech

Ok, my sig contains my rig build


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Edit....


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I commend your will to re-do that sort of thing constantly, Whenever I put together something/ secure something I dread forgetting something small because I hate to have to take it apart agian
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Also, when are we going to see these cables sleeved? It's like the one thing that's stopping this build from being perf.


Hehe, look what I got in the mail yesterday!!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Looks good,but i bet you are going to find an excuse to redo your loop in a couple days....


Oh no doubt! lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well stick if you got a new rad and _didn't_ redo at least some routing I'd be worried you weren't feeling yourself. Hell, without a new rad; it has to have been at least a week...lol.


Hey, it's been 8 days, that's well over a week in stick time.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Hehe, look what I got in the mail yesterday!!
> 
> 
> Oh no doubt! lol
> Hey, it's been 8 days, that's well over a week in stick time.


What kind of sleeving is that?

I really want to do some of my own sleeving just need to gather up all the stuff


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> What kind of sleeving is that?
> 
> I really want to do some of my own sleeving just need to gather up all the stuff


Either MDPC or Lutr0o is my guess...


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Hehe, look what I got in the mail yesterday!!
> 
> 
> Oh no doubt! lol
> Hey, it's been 8 days, that's well over a week in stick time.


finger pain....


----------



## stickg1

Lutroo Teleios


----------



## wermad

Keeping busy, but rig still not 100% ready


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Keeping busy, but rig still not 100% ready


Needs more EKWB!!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Needs more EKWB!!!!



























Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Anyone still having issues w/ Swiftech black compression fittings? Recently saw some that were corroding on the port threads.


----------



## sinnedone

Wow, that's alot of blockage there buddy.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone still having issues w/ Swiftech black compression fittings? Recently saw some that were corroding on the port threads.


You could make an awesome "Connect Four" theme!!


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Wow, that's alot of blockage there buddy.


MOAR FIBER!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Wow, that's alot of blockage there buddy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> You could make an awesome "Connect Four" theme!!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> MOAR FIBER!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## IT Diva

Well, . . .

My Dimestech Easy XL tech bench got here a couple weeks or so ago, and it looked pretty nice, wasn't flimsy or wobbly, as B Neg had experienced.

So much for the good part.

Right in the product description, it names the SR1 rads as compatible, so I got a pair of 420's and had them nicely painted white to match, along with all the stainless steel M4 hardware I needed for a push - pull fan setup on each.

Well, the spaghetti benders lied . . . .

The holes are not punched to accommodate the width of the Black Ice rads. They are slotted where they have to be for the 20mm fan spacing, but everything is about 1/8" too low.

For the price of the damn thing, I was really p*ssed that I'd now have to mod all the fan mounting holes on both sides and shift them up about an 1/8".

At least there's enough clearance for the rad to fit if raised a little, and all that was needed was some modding to the holes.

So with the holes fixed, I installed the rads and an upper and lower extension panel on each side so that I can have a water cooling setup as a permanent part of the rig. The right side got one of my 400mm horizontal res setups on the top panel and a triple 35X pump setup on the lower panel.

I did some temporary plumbing and cabling to test everything, only to have a brand new flow meter last for less than 2 minutes. . . .

Maybe those triple 35X's spun it apart, lol . . .

I'll sort that out when I drain it to replace the first leaking BP fitting I've ever had. . . . Got a rotary 90 leaking at the rotary joint when the pumps run a little harder than 2000rpm.

So tomorrow will see the leaky fitting replaced and the cabling extensions made to tidy up the rats nest.

At least I've got it functional.

Darlene

If the top looks just slightly bowed down in the middle, it's because the bozos didn't clamp the top front piece properly when they tigged it in place, and it's got a little gap at the top edge on each end.



Here you can see where the holes needed to shift upwards to fit the SR 1 rads:



Here's the lower right side deck and mounting plate with the pump setup:



Close up of the pumps with the new EK metal replacement housings:



And a few with everything at least minimally working:







It's set up with a fully modular 1000W PSU for the main, and a 750W that's been modded for just PCIe cables and auto turn on with the main.


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, QC aside, that test bench has some serious sex appeal!!!

Everytime i see a good test bench build it makes me want one


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Damn, QC aside, that test bench has some serious sex appeal!!!
> 
> Everytime i see a good test bench build it makes me want one


Another day or two's work and it should look like something I can feel reasonably satisfied with.

I just have to keep reminding myself that it's a tool, and not really a "build", so I don't get too obsessed with details.

Darlene


----------



## Jimhans1

Just got this email from PPCS, coupons!!!

Valentines Day is almost upon us. Customers like you are the HEART of our BUSINESS! Thank you for your continued loyalty and support each and every day.

We are also pleased to offer these money savings coupons to help purchase some moddin' goodies for you and your Sweetheart:

Spend $50-$250, get 6% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-6"
Spend $250-1000, get 7.5% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-75"
Spend over $1000, get 9% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-9"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from February 7th through February 14th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Well, . . .
> 
> My Dimestech Easy XL tech bench got here a couple weeks or so ago, and it looked pretty nice, wasn't flimsy or wobbly, as B Neg had experienced.
> 
> So much for the good part.
> 
> Right in the product description, it names the SR1 rads as compatible, so I got a pair of 420's and had them nicely painted white to match, along with all the stainless steel M4 hardware I needed for a push - pull fan setup on each.
> 
> Well, the spaghetti benders lied . . . .
> 
> The holes are not punched to accommodate the width of the Black Ice rads. They are slotted where they have to be for the 20mm fan spacing, but everything is about 1/8" too low.
> 
> For the price of the damn thing, I was really p*ssed that I'd now have to mod all the fan mounting holes on both sides and shift them up about an 1/8".
> 
> At least there's enough clearance for the rad to fit if raised a little, and all that was needed was some modding to the holes.
> 
> So with the holes fixed, I installed the rads and an upper and lower extension panel on each side so that I can have a water cooling setup as a permanent part of the rig. The right side got one of my 400mm horizontal res setups on the top panel and a triple 35X pump setup on the lower panel.
> 
> I did some temporary plumbing and cabling to test everything, only to have a brand new flow meter last for less than 2 minutes. . . .
> 
> Maybe those triple 35X's spun it apart, lol . . .
> 
> I'll sort that out when I drain it to replace the first leaking BP fitting I've ever had. . . . Got a rotary 90 leaking at the rotary joint when the pumps run a little harder than 2000rpm.
> 
> So tomorrow will see the leaky fitting replaced and the cabling extensions made to tidy up the rats nest.
> 
> At least I've got it functional.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> If the top looks just slightly bowed down in the middle, it's because the bozos didn't clamp the top front piece properly when they tigged it in place, and it's got a little gap at the top edge on each end.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the holes needed to shift upwards to fit the SR 1 rads:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the lower right side deck and mounting plate with the pump setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the pumps with the new EK metal replacement housings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a few with everything at least minimally working:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's set up with a fully modular 1000W PSU for the main, and a 750W that's been modded for just PCIe cables and auto turn on with the main.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Another day or two's work and it should look like something I can feel reasonably satisfied with.
> 
> I just have to keep reminding myself that it's a tool, and not really a "build", so I don't get too obsessed with details.
> 
> Darlene


I honestly dnt think you ever build anything without being obsessed (more like an eye for details) with it,meaning everything you have shown no matter how big/small the detail of the job looks awesome....


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if it will be iluminated in the final version.


I like that PCI 120 mm fan bracket? Where did you get this??


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Well, . . .
> 
> My Dimestech Easy XL tech bench got here a couple weeks or so ago, and it looked pretty nice, wasn't flimsy or wobbly, as B Neg had experienced.
> 
> So much for the good part.
> 
> Right in the product description, it names the SR1 rads as compatible, so I got a pair of 420's and had them nicely painted white to match, along with all the stainless steel M4 hardware I needed for a push - pull fan setup on each.
> 
> Well, the spaghetti benders lied . . . .
> 
> The holes are not punched to accommodate the width of the Black Ice rads. They are slotted where they have to be for the 20mm fan spacing, but everything is about 1/8" too low.
> 
> For the price of the damn thing, I was really p*ssed that I'd now have to mod all the fan mounting holes on both sides and shift them up about an 1/8".
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> At least there's enough clearance for the rad to fit if raised a little, and all that was needed was some modding to the holes.
> 
> So with the holes fixed, I installed the rads and an upper and lower extension panel on each side so that I can have a water cooling setup as a permanent part of the rig. The right side got one of my 400mm horizontal res setups on the top panel and a triple 35X pump setup on the lower panel.
> 
> I did some temporary plumbing and cabling to test everything, only to have a brand new flow meter last for less than 2 minutes. . . .
> 
> Maybe those triple 35X's spun it apart, lol . . .
> 
> I'll sort that out when I drain it to replace the first leaking BP fitting I've ever had. . . . Got a rotary 90 leaking at the rotary joint when the pumps run a little harder than 2000rpm.
> 
> So tomorrow will see the leaky fitting replaced and the cabling extensions made to tidy up the rats nest.
> 
> At least I've got it functional.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> If the top looks just slightly bowed down in the middle, it's because the bozos didn't clamp the top front piece properly when they tigged it in place, and it's got a little gap at the top edge on each end.
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the holes needed to shift upwards to fit the SR 1 rads:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the lower right side deck and mounting plate with the pump setup:
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the pumps with the new EK metal replacement housings:
> 
> 
> 
> And a few with everything at least minimally working:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's set up with a fully modular 1000W PSU for the main, and a 750W that's been modded for just PCIe cables and auto turn on with the main.


Dang, I was thinking of getting one of those. Does a typical 360mm rad work? Do you have a spare you could line up at your leisure? I could always waddle out the holes but like you said, that thing is expensive, it would be nice if it worked out of the box.


----------



## johnnybra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if it will be iluminated in the final version.
> 
> 
> 
> I like that PCI 120 mm fan bracket? Where did you get this??
Click to expand...

I buyed in ebay and put a white vinyl in the middle holder. It's a nice solution for an universal vga waterblock. Vrm now are cooler than with Vapor-X one


----------



## Anoxy

Hey guys, could you try using the SPOILER tags when quoting images on the same page please?


----------



## skupples

Code:



Code:


[SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][/SPOILER]

btw... Anyone know of something that would reduce pump reverb/vibration/resonance that is only 2-3mm thick? My MCP35x2 is just sitting on the mid plate, which is causing some reverberation/vibration noise to resonate off of the mid panel. Iv'e tried a few things from around the house, but nothing really seems to help. I'm extremely space limited.


----------



## kpoeticg

Maybe some of that ribbed stacked liner cardboard stuff, dunno what it's called. Or a piece of a sponge. Or even the middle piece that comes with the 3mm radiator gaskets


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> i have/had a weird problem with my loop
> 
> so i was adding more fans to my rad(a xt45)
> i put the fans on top of my case without a problem so i started replacinng the bottom row of fans
> when i unscrewed the first fan suddenly some coolant dripped down,so i immediatly shut down my pc and got some paper towels to catch the drops.
> i checked my rad but the screws cant get into the rad itself anyway i looked at it.
> so i plugged my pc back in and let it run for a few hours but i saw no more drops from that location.
> so i wonder where they came from,with those screw protectors i cant damage the tubes nor the fins and i use a bayreservoir so the coolant get on the exterior of my rad
> 
> im so confused right now


anyone got a idea what might happend?


----------



## SeeThruHead

You could get a mold and squeeze some silicone caulking into it. Spread it to whatever thickness you need.


----------



## skupples

thx... I have both silicone caulk, & rad gasket. Will try both tomorrow. I'm using the felt side of a piece of velcro right now, it's helping but not as much as I would like it to.

+1s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> anyone got a idea what might happend?


it's possible you knocked a fitting just enough for it to leak for a slight second. If you put too much pressure on a compression fitting, or an extension it will leak.


----------



## wermad

Anyone running black Swiftech compression fittings???


----------



## johnnybra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hey guys, could you try using the SPOILER tags when quoting images on the same page please?


Sorry, mate.

I usually use tapatalk and, for my, quotes are always in spoiler.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just got this email from PPCS, coupons!!!
> 
> Valentines Day is almost upon us. Customers like you are the HEART of our BUSINESS! Thank you for your continued loyalty and support each and every day.
> 
> We are also pleased to offer these money savings coupons to help purchase some moddin' goodies for you and your Sweetheart:
> 
> Spend $50-$250, get 6% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-6"
> Spend $250-1000, get 7.5% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-75"
> Spend over $1000, get 9% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-9"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from February 7th through February 14th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


Arrrggghh I just placed a hefty order there yesterday. Does it stack with the OCN55?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Sorry, mate.
> 
> I usually use tapatalk and, for my, quotes are always in spoiler.


No worries, just trying to keep the thread clean and easy to scroll through


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just got this email from PPCS, coupons!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Valentines Day is almost upon us. Customers like you are the HEART of our BUSINESS! Thank you for your continued loyalty and support each and every day.
> 
> We are also pleased to offer these money savings coupons to help purchase some moddin' goodies for you and your Sweetheart:
> 
> Spend $50-$250, get 6% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-6"
> Spend $250-1000, get 7.5% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-75"
> Spend over $1000, get 9% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-9"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from February 7th through February 14th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


Is this a coupon that anyone can use? or is it a one time use code?
My question is, Can I use it? and can it be used with OCN55?
I'm about to pull the trigger on my acrylic order + water block for my upgraded GPU.
My Rma was cleared, but they where out of GTX680's, so went for a 780 for an extra 100 dollars..
It will probably be here Wednesday or Thursday so would like to get my order done soonish.
still undecided between 3/8 1/2 or 1/2 5/8 tubing.. :S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> anyone got a idea what might happend?


It could be a number of things, you said the drops came when you unscrewed a bottom fan? I would guess it was water that had accumulated at that screw.. lowest point on the radiator?
so the water can have come from many places.. minor leak in the radiator, bad fitting somewhere on or close to the radiator. a spill from last flush...
If it was me, I would pull the radiator out of the PC, block all ports but one and hook it up to a foset to build up a little pressure.. that should show any potential leaking of the rad or fitting.
Inspect the O-rings on the fittings.
Hopefully you will find you leak and be able to sleep at night








Good luck


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Arrrggghh I just placed a hefty order there yesterday. Does it stack with the OCN55?


I have not tried to add them both, but the email said one coupon per order, so I would guess not.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I have not tried to add them both, but the email said one coupon per order, so I would guess not.


I understand that as, If you order for, say 1000 dollars.. you only use "IHEARTPPCS14-9" and not all 3 of them







wouldnt other coupons still count? I guess I will find out soon








Thx for sharing the coupons!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Arrrggghh I just placed a hefty order there yesterday. Does it stack with the OCN55?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Is this a coupon that anyone can use? or is it a one time use code?
> My question is, Can I use it? and can it be used with OCN55?
> I'm about to pull the trigger on my acrylic order + water block for my upgraded GPU.
> My Rma was cleared, but they where out of GTX680's, so went for a 780 for an extra 100 dollars..
> It will probably be here Wednesday or Thursday so would like to get my order done soonish.
> still undecided between 3/8 1/2 or 1/2 5/8 tubing.. :S


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> I understand that as, If you order for, say 1000 dollars.. you only use "IHEARTPPCS14-9" and not all 3 of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wouldnt other coupons still count? I guess I will find out soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for sharing the coupons!


I just tried to use both OCN55 and the 7.5% IHEARTPPCS14-75, it will ONLY TAKE ONE. But still, it gives an extra .5-3.5% off over the OCN55 code.... Better than a sharp stick in the eye!!









Yes @GaMbi2004 you can use this code, it is NOT a one-time use code, but it does expire on February 14th


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Is this a coupon that anyone can use? or is it a one time use code?
> My question is, Can I use it? and can it be used with OCN55?
> I'm about to pull the trigger on my acrylic order + water block for my upgraded GPU.
> My RMA was cleared, but they where out of GTX680's, so went for a 780 for an extra 100 dollars..
> It will probably be here Wednesday or Thursday so would like to get my order done soon-ish.
> still *undecided between 3/8 1/2 or 1/2 5/8 tubing..* :S


I would say go with the 3/8"x1/2" tubing, as of right now, the 1/2"x5/8" tubing only has 1 maker for fittings, and that's Monsoon, with the 3/8"x1/2", you have a larger choice of fittings, Monsoon & Primochill, and maybe more in the future







Also, apparently Monsoon has told some folks that their "push-in style" fittings will be available in the next couple of weeks. THOSE are the ones I want to see, since I am NOT a fan of their other hardline offering personally. That's just my


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I just tried to use both OCN55 and the 7.5% IHEARTPPCS14-75, it will ONLY TAKE ONE. But still, it gives an extra .5-3.5% off over the OCN55 code.... Better than a sharp stick in the eye!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes @GaMbi2004 you can use this code, it is NOT a one-time use code, but it does expire on February 14th


Darn it, I don't get paid till the 15th, but I really want to grab some eLoops for my build. Might have to just bite the bullet on this one, and order the set of 9 fans. As I really can't put my build in a running state until at get 6 fans for the other 360 radiator.


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Man ordered close to 1k from FrozenCPU and didn't use any of the coupon codes. Live and learn I guess...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well, . . .
> 
> My Dimestech Easy XL tech bench got here a couple weeks or so ago, and it looked pretty nice, wasn't flimsy or wobbly, as B Neg had experienced.
> 
> So much for the good part.
> 
> Right in the product description, it names the SR1 rads as compatible, so I got a pair of 420's and had them nicely painted white to match, along with all the stainless steel M4 hardware I needed for a push - pull fan setup on each.
> 
> Well, the spaghetti benders lied . . . .
> 
> The holes are not punched to accommodate the width of the Black Ice rads. They are slotted where they have to be for the 20mm fan spacing, but everything is about 1/8" too low.
> 
> For the price of the damn thing, I was really p*ssed that I'd now have to mod all the fan mounting holes on both sides and shift them up about an 1/8".
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> At least there's enough clearance for the rad to fit if raised a little, and all that was needed was some modding to the holes.
> 
> So with the holes fixed, I installed the rads and an upper and lower extension panel on each side so that I can have a water cooling setup as a permanent part of the rig. The right side got one of my 400mm horizontal res setups on the top panel and a triple 35X pump setup on the lower panel.
> 
> I did some temporary plumbing and cabling to test everything, only to have a brand new flow meter last for less than 2 minutes. . . .
> 
> Maybe those triple 35X's spun it apart, lol . . .
> 
> I'll sort that out when I drain it to replace the first leaking BP fitting I've ever had. . . . Got a rotary 90 leaking at the rotary joint when the pumps run a little harder than 2000rpm.
> 
> So tomorrow will see the leaky fitting replaced and the cabling extensions made to tidy up the rats nest.
> 
> At least I've got it functional.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> If the top looks just slightly bowed down in the middle, it's because the bozos didn't clamp the top front piece properly when they tigged it in place, and it's got a little gap at the top edge on each end.
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the holes needed to shift upwards to fit the SR 1 rads:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the lower right side deck and mounting plate with the pump setup:
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the pumps with the new EK metal replacement housings:
> 
> 
> 
> And a few with everything at least minimally working:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's set up with a fully modular 1000W PSU for the main, and a 750W that's been modded for just PCIe cables and auto turn on with the main.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dang, I was thinking of getting one of those. Does a typical 360mm rad work? Do you have a spare you could line up at your leisure? I could always waddle out the holes but like you said, that thing is expensive, it would be nice if it worked out of the box.
Click to expand...

Any 360 will be fine.

The XL version which is designed for 420's, has tabs on the ends for added compatibility with 360 length rads, but I removed them since the weren't needed and obstruct airflow with the 420's.

I've circled the visible ones in the pic below taken before I cut them off.

I have a preference for Hardware Labs rads based on build quality and their use of 4mm hardware.

I had planned to add the side decks from the start, so having native support for M4 hardware was important.

I already had my order of M4 hardware on hand, or I might have just ordered another set of rads, like the white UT 60's, and saved the SR 1's for something else.

From previous experience, I know that the HWL rads are a bit wider than most others, so they are a little "iffier" to fit sometimes.

The fact that they mentioned them specifically in the description, is why I felt safe to get them, and why I' so ticked off that they don't fit properly out of the box;

•Compatibility with Radiators up to 420x2 (Fans 140mmx3) - Radiators 120, 140, 240, 280, 360, 420, Black Ice Sr 360 and *Black Ice Sr 420 (20mm fan space)*

If you just want to stay with a 360, you can get the Easy V3.0 series, which is made for 360 length, or less, rads and save $70 over the XL version.

Darlene


----------



## GaMbi2004

My order is placed








285 dollar order from PPC
7.5% rebate (thx for the code)
50 dollars off on shipping to Denmark
After taxes and shipping in US and to Denmark, I end up paying just shy of 400 dollars
+ I had 75 dollars on my paypal that I won here on OCN for folding









The GPU block alone would have cost close to 200 dolalrs here, so the price seams fair










I ended up going for 3/8 1/2 tubing with monsoon hard lock chain guns. hopefully I will be ready to start my acrylic project in a week or so ^^


----------



## Chopper1591

Finished my first custom loop this weekend.
Looks to run alright....
Will need some extensive testing in the next few days.









Tell me what you guys think of my first try at water.

Block and pump(w/ top) was bought used here on the forum.
Gave the block a nice little clean up, internal and outside.


Rest of the loop is brand new:

XSPC Raystorm cpu block
Alphacool UT60 Triple
EK-Res X3 150
Bunch of Bitspower barb fittings, 4 EK compression fittings and 4 Alphacool 45-degree rotary adapters
5 feet of Primochill advanced LRT Tubing
Distilled water w/ IandH dead-water and Feser Corrosion Blocker
I took my time as I wanted to do it right the first try. And I made it.
The loop didn't leak one bit. Although I did had some difficulty getting all the air out of the loop, but after a bit of turning and shaking with the case it was all good.

+1 for my dad @ the notebook










Pump with the best spot I could find to make a T point to drain the loop. Almost forgot the drain line.


The res. was a tight fit... Also couldn't make it fit with both the clamps, but it sits pretty secure.


Wanted to make the rad fit inside the case at first but decided to mount it external after all.
Made some (ghetto) hole's on top with my dremel tool for the hoses and put in rubber rings.


The UT60 with three Gentle Typhoon ap-15's w/ grills.


And a final one for style.


----------



## kcuestag

Better cable management on the GPU's and moved the temperature display:


Spoiler: BEFORE







*AFTER:*



I'd say it looks better now?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Better cable management on the GPU's and moved the temperature display:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: BEFORE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *AFTER:*
> 
> 
> 
> I'd say it looks better now?


Much better, but isnt the HDD holder abit bonked?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Much better, but isnt the HDD holder abit bonked?


That's a trade off I had to go with if I wanted to place the pump/reservoir there, doesn't bother me.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Better cable management on the GPU's and moved the temperature display:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: BEFORE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *AFTER:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd say it looks better now?


I tell you this, having 2 cards that need 8+8+6 PCI-E connectors makes cable management a joke so I would say you got something much better relatively


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running black Swiftech compression fittings???


Iv'e used their extensions before. From what BramSLi1 said, they have a new revision out/is coming out that is anodized instead of powder coated. Iv'e had allot of issues with the powder coating coming off/oxidizing/corroding. Liquid-utopia is partially to blame, as it seems to attack something in the coating.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Better cable management on the GPU's and moved the temperature display:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: BEFORE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *AFTER:*
> 
> 
> 
> I'd say it looks better now?


Nice work - I'ld say it looks much better after the cable tidy up.

NV - closer look I see just two dims in correct slots


Spoiler: my mistake - sorry



It appears you have your RAM modules installed in non-optimal slots though.
I think that for 4 modules they should all be in the red slots - A1, B1, C1 & D1
Reference page 2-5 in the manual
Rampage IV Extreme User's Manual (English)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Nice work - I'ld say it looks much better after the cable tidy up.
> 
> It appears you have your RAM modules installed in non-optimal slots though.
> I think that for 4 modules they should all be in the red slots - A1, B1, C1 & D1
> Reference page 2-5 in the manual
> Rampage IV Extreme User's Manual (English)


It's two modules only though. I know I know, I'm not using quad channel, don't kill me.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running black Swiftech compression fittings???


Yep, running here without any problems. Will be taking the loop down soon to replace rads ad will inspect it again.

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="IT Diva" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/61010#post_21745725"]Well, . . .

My Dimestech Easy XL tech bench got here a couple weeks or so ago, and it looked pretty nice, wasn't flimsy or wobbly, as B Neg had experienced.

So much for the good part.

Right in the product description, it names the SR1 rads as compatible, so I got a pair of 420's and had them nicely painted white to match, along with all the stainless steel M4 hardware I needed for a push - pull fan setup on each.

Well, the spaghetti benders lied . . . .

The holes are not punched to accommodate the width of the Black Ice rads. They are slotted where they have to be for the 20mm fan spacing, but everything is about 1/8" too low.

For the price of the damn thing, I was really p*ssed that I'd now have to mod all the fan mounting holes on both sides and shift them up about an 1/8".

At least there's enough clearance for the rad to fit if raised a little, and all that was needed was some modding to the holes.

So with the holes fixed, I installed the rads and an upper and lower extension panel on each side so that I can have a water cooling setup as a permanent part of the rig. The right side got one of my 400mm horizontal res setups on the top panel and a triple 35X pump setup on the lower panel.

I did some temporary plumbing and cabling to test everything, only to have a brand new flow meter last for less than 2 minutes. . . .

Maybe those triple 35X's spun it apart, lol . . .

I'll sort that out when I drain it to replace the first leaking BP fitting I've ever had. . . . Got a rotary 90 leaking at the rotary joint when the pumps run a little harder than 2000rpm.

So tomorrow will see the leaky fitting replaced and the cabling extensions made to tidy up the rats nest.

At least I've got it functional.

Darlene

If the top looks just slightly bowed down in the middle, it's because the bozos didn't clamp the top front piece properly when they tigged it in place, and it's got a little gap at the top edge on each end.



Here you can see where the holes needed to shift upwards to fit the SR 1 rads:



Here's the lower right side deck and mounting plate with the pump setup:



Close up of the pumps with the new EK metal replacement housings:



And a few with everything at least minimally working:







It's set up with a fully modular 1000W PSU for the main, and a 750W that's been modded for just PCIe cables and auto turn on with the main.

[/quote


]

Out of curiosity what was the flow meter that went dead?


----------



## fast_fate

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, running here without any problems. Will be taking the loop down soon to replace rads ad will inspect it again.
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> quote name="IT Diva" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/61010#post_21745725"]Well, . . .
> 
> My Dimestech Easy XL tech bench got here a couple weeks or so ago, and it looked pretty nice, wasn't flimsy or wobbly, as B Neg had experienced.
> 
> So much for the good part.
> 
> Right in the product description, it names the SR1 rads as compatible, so I got a pair of 420's and had them nicely painted white to match, along with all the stainless steel M4 hardware I needed for a push - pull fan setup on each.
> 
> Well, the spaghetti benders lied . . . .
> 
> The holes are not punched to accommodate the width of the Black Ice rads. They are slotted where they have to be for the 20mm fan spacing, but everything is about 1/8" too low.
> 
> For the price of the damn thing, I was really p*ssed that I'd now have to mod all the fan mounting holes on both sides and shift them up about an 1/8".
> 
> At least there's enough clearance for the rad to fit if raised a little, and all that was needed was some modding to the holes.
> 
> So with the holes fixed, I installed the rads and an upper and lower extension panel on each side so that I can have a water cooling setup as a permanent part of the rig. The right side got one of my 400mm horizontal res setups on the top panel and a triple 35X pump setup on the lower panel.
> 
> I did some temporary plumbing and cabling to test everything, only to have a brand new flow meter last for less than 2 minutes. . . .
> 
> Maybe those triple 35X's spun it apart, lol . . .
> 
> I'll sort that out when I drain it to replace the first leaking BP fitting I've ever had. . . . Got a rotary 90 leaking at the rotary joint when the pumps run a little harder than 2000rpm.
> 
> So tomorrow will see the leaky fitting replaced and the cabling extensions made to tidy up the rats nest.
> 
> At least I've got it functional.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> If the top looks just slightly bowed down in the middle, it's because the bozos didn't clamp the top front piece properly when they tigged it in place, and it's got a little gap at the top edge on each end.
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the holes needed to shift upwards to fit the SR 1 rads:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the lower right side deck and mounting plate with the pump setup:
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the pumps with the new EK metal replacement housings:
> 
> 
> 
> And a few with everything at least minimally working:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's set up with a fully modular 1000W PSU for the main, and a 750W that's been modded for just PCIe cables and auto turn on with the main.
> 
> [/quote
> 
> 
> ]






Out of curiosity what was the flow meter that went dead?

I'ld say it is a Koolance INS-FM18 - with the black cable in the 3rd pic.
I've got one of them and the DCB-FM01 display and frequency adaptor to match (which is in pic 6 displaying 0.0)
Works very well
BUT on mine the wire connection to the adaptor was a bit iffy - now it's OK but if flow reading stops working I'll know where to look.

Just Maybe, that is something Darlene hasn't checked yet ??


----------



## PedroC1999

Just want to leave this here, its my cable management, and yes, I will be respraying both metal covers
I turned flash on so you can see the wires, their quite difficult to see in detail without it on


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, running here without any problems. Will be taking the loop down soon to replace rads ad will inspect it again.
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> quote name="IT Diva" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/61010#post_21745725"]Well, . . .
> 
> My Dimestech Easy XL tech bench got here a couple weeks or so ago, and it looked pretty nice, wasn't flimsy or wobbly, as B Neg had experienced.
> 
> So much for the good part.
> 
> Right in the product description, it names the SR1 rads as compatible, so I got a pair of 420's and had them nicely painted white to match, along with all the stainless steel M4 hardware I needed for a push - pull fan setup on each.
> 
> Well, the spaghetti benders lied . . . .
> 
> The holes are not punched to accommodate the width of the Black Ice rads. They are slotted where they have to be for the 20mm fan spacing, but everything is about 1/8" too low.
> 
> For the price of the damn thing, I was really p*ssed that I'd now have to mod all the fan mounting holes on both sides and shift them up about an 1/8".
> 
> At least there's enough clearance for the rad to fit if raised a little, and all that was needed was some modding to the holes.
> 
> So with the holes fixed, I installed the rads and an upper and lower extension panel on each side so that I can have a water cooling setup as a permanent part of the rig. The right side got one of my 400mm horizontal res setups on the top panel and a triple 35X pump setup on the lower panel.
> 
> I did some temporary plumbing and cabling to test everything, only to have a brand new flow meter last for less than 2 minutes. . . .
> 
> Maybe those triple 35X's spun it apart, lol . . .
> 
> I'll sort that out when I drain it to replace the first leaking BP fitting I've ever had. . . . Got a rotary 90 leaking at the rotary joint when the pumps run a little harder than 2000rpm.
> 
> So tomorrow will see the leaky fitting replaced and the cabling extensions made to tidy up the rats nest.
> 
> At least I've got it functional.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> If the top looks just slightly bowed down in the middle, it's because the bozos didn't clamp the top front piece properly when they tigged it in place, and it's got a little gap at the top edge on each end.
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the holes needed to shift upwards to fit the SR 1 rads:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the lower right side deck and mounting plate with the pump setup:
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the pumps with the new EK metal replacement housings:
> 
> 
> 
> And a few with everything at least minimally working:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's set up with a fully modular 1000W PSU for the main, and a 750W that's been modded for just PCIe cables and auto turn on with the main.
> 
> [/quote
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity what was the flow meter that went dead?
Click to expand...

I'ld say it is a Koolance INS-FM18 - with the black cable in the 3rd pic.
I've got one of them and the DCB-FM01 display and frequency adaptor to match (which is in pic 6 displaying 0.0)
Works very well
BUT on mine the wire connection to the adaptor was a bit iffy - now it's OK but if flow reading stops working I'll know where to look.

Just Maybe, that is something Darlene hasn't checked yet ??

I wish!

That was one of the first things I checked.

I also moved the adapter to another test setup and it read exactly the same as the one I tried it in place of.

I just ran across a brand new FM18 still in the plastic wrapper in the original box, so I'll have it swapped out soon since I don't have to wait for a new one to get here.

Just taking a lunch break from working on cables.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

broken quotes hurting my brain.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running black Swiftech compression fittings???


I have them in my rig. As Skupples said though, we have a new version of them out that is anodized and looks more like a gun barrel color than black. This will prevent the issues that we had with the paint chipping or flaking off, and it should also prevent any corrosion issues.


----------



## Roikyou

So, after a year of running xspc dual bay reservoir with mcp35x pumps, one burned out, so I decided to move to a different bay, water cool my 780 ti classified and add a "T" with a drain for future maintenance.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][/SPOILER]
> 
> btw... Anyone know of something that would reduce pump reverb/vibration/resonance that is only 2-3mm thick? My MCP35x2 is just sitting on the mid plate, which is causing some reverberation/vibration noise to resonate off of the mid panel. Iv'e tried a few things from around the house, but nothing really seems to help. I'm extremely space limited.


Sound dampening material like this....http://www.amazon.com/Sonic-Barrier-Acoustic-Foam-PSA/dp/B0007XGKRW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1391973244&sr=8-7&keywords=sound+dampening+material

Used in speakers,also blu tack works well.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Any 360 will be fine.
> 
> The XL version which is designed for 420's, has tabs on the ends for added compatibility with 360 length rads, but I removed them since the weren't needed and obstruct airflow with the 420's.
> 
> I've circled the visible ones in the pic below taken before I cut them off.
> 
> I have a preference for Hardware Labs rads based on build quality and their use of 4mm hardware.
> 
> I had planned to add the side decks from the start, so having native support for M4 hardware was important.
> 
> I already had my order of M4 hardware on hand, or I might have just ordered another set of rads, like the white UT 60's, and saved the SR 1's for something else.
> 
> From previous experience, I know that the HWL rads are a bit wider than most others, so they are a little "iffier" to fit sometimes.
> 
> The fact that they mentioned them specifically in the description, is why I felt safe to get them, and why I' so ticked off that they don't fit properly out of the box;
> 
> •Compatibility with Radiators up to 420x2 (Fans 140mmx3) - Radiators 120, 140, 240, 280, 360, 420, Black Ice Sr 360 and *Black Ice Sr 420 (20mm fan space)*
> 
> If you just want to stay with a 360, you can get the Easy V3.0 series, which is made for 360 length, or less, rads and save $70 over the XL version.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah yes, the Easy V3.0 is the one I've been eyeing. Looks pretty nice, I would actually have two 240mm rads on it for the time being.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e used their extensions before. From what BramSLi1 said, they have a new revision out/is coming out that is anodized instead of powder coated. Iv'e had allot of issues with the powder coating coming off/oxidizing/corroding. Liquid-utopia is partially to blame, as it seems to attack something in the coating.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, running here without any problems. Will be taking the loop down soon to replace rads ad will inspect it again.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have them in my rig. As Skupples said though, we have a new version of them out that is anodized and looks more like a gun barrel color than black. This will prevent the issues that we had with the paint chipping or flaking off, and it should also prevent any corrosion issues.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. I'm placing my order today and I'm going for a less common size so there's a chance I won't get the revised ones. I was curious about their quality after recalling a few ppl posting pics of them. Thanks and +1.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks guys. I'm placing my order today and I'm going for a less common size so there's a chance I won't get the revised ones. I was curious about their quality after recalling a few ppl posting pics of them. Thanks and +1.


If you place the order through us directly you will get the revised version of them. We don't have any more of the previous version in stock.


----------



## cyphon

Sad day today. Was gaming on my crowbar build and it just shut off...hard crash. Tried rebooting and it won't boot. I can't even get to the BIOS. From the Q codes it looks like it is working on memory operations before shut off, so my guess is the memory crapped out.

The unfortunate part about the RAM blocks and hard acrylic is, I have to do a full tear down to replace the memory. Because of this I am trying to think of some upgrades I may be able to do.

Any one have any experience with the phanteks enthoo primo case? It looks like an interesting wuth it's wc capacities and its price. I'd also consider a 900D or something else that you guys recommend. Want to keep it under $500 for the case.


----------



## wermad

Sad to hear that dude







. My psu decided to quit on me as well.

You have a healthy budget for a new case. There's lots of options out there. I wouldn't spend more the $300 on the 900D tbh but its a great case.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sad day today. Was gaming on my crowbar build and it just shut off...hard crash. Tried rebooting and it won't boot. I can't even get to the BIOS. From the Q codes it looks like it is working on memory operations before shut off, so my guess is the memory crapped out.
> 
> The unfortunate part about the RAM blocks and hard acrylic is, I have to do a full tear down to replace the memory. Because of this I am trying to think of some upgrades I may be able to do.
> 
> Any one have any experience with the phanteks enthoo primo case? It looks like an interesting wuth it's wc capacities and its price. I'd also consider a 900D or something else that you guys recommend. Want to keep it under $500 for the case.


Caselabs S8! Horizontal atx mb, 360-40$ during preorder period (released next week I think?) It's closer to a cube than a tower though, so a little shorter and squatter due to the horizontal mobo.

900D is nice, I have one and it's sturdy and very roomy for wc applications. You're paying a little extra for the name, but it works well and I've seen some nice builds done in them. The enthoo primo has also had some good reviews and happy builders. All in all, go with what will work best for your needs and looks best!


----------



## skupples

I noticed something new today about my 900D that I don't like. It's just ripe with air holes EVERYWHERE. I fixed it with black duct tape.







Also made a custom dust filter for the rear panel, also held on right now with duct-tape until I get some higher strength magnetic stripping in.

I'm really curious how well that dual DDC single slot EK bay res will work. That's just SO MUCH pump power for such a small res.


----------



## wermad

Throwing this one out there just cuz I'm using one










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








You can find them ~$150-180. I have a couple of UT60 280s and a UT60 420 rads in mine.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I noticed something new today about my 900D that I don't like. It's just ripe with air holes EVERYWHERE. I fixed it with black duct tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a custom dust filter for the rear panel, also held on right now with duct-tape until I get some higher strength magnetic stripping in.
> 
> I'm really curious how well that dual DDC single slot EK bay res will work. That's just SO MUCH pump power for such a small res.


Looking at my 810, there are no air holes I can really think of, all of the front and bottom is filtered, and the rest is exhaust


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Throwing this one out there just cuz I'm using one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can find them ~$150-180. I have a couple of UT60 280s and a UT60 420 rads in mine.


I had the regular blackhawk before. It was really tight between the motherboard and rear panel. Is the Ultra a little roomier?


----------



## kizwan

I need help in making a decision. I have HL Black Ice GTS 360 & XSPC EX240 radiators in my loop for CPU & two GPU's. I'm using SP120 2350RPM fans, one set for each radiators in pull config. If I change the EX240 radiator to HL Black Ice SR-1 240 radiator, can it helps lowering water temp? Can it help improved overall cooling performance?


----------



## h2spartan

What's the verdict on these Feser Admiral Radiators? I was thinking about getting the 240....this one:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21398/ex-rad-648/Feser_Admiral_240_Extreme_Performance_Modular_Radiator_-_Black.html#blank


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sad day today. Was gaming on my crowbar build and it just shut off...hard crash. Tried rebooting and it won't boot. I can't even get to the BIOS. From the Q codes it looks like it is working on memory operations before shut off, so my guess is the memory crapped out.
> 
> The unfortunate part about the RAM blocks and hard acrylic is, I have to do a full tear down to replace the memory. Because of this I am trying to think of some upgrades I may be able to do.
> 
> Any one have any experience with the phanteks enthoo primo case? It looks like an interesting wuth it's wc capacities and its price. I'd also consider a 900D or something else that you guys recommend. Want to keep it under $500 for the case.


I do love the case mate (Enthoo primo) and it comes with very good 140 mm fans (5 of it). You can check my build log to have an idea of the case and its potential and also our club here in ocn. A very good case with a reasonable price. If you need to ask any questions about the case PM or place here, in the club, or my build log and will get back to you.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sad day today. Was gaming on my crowbar build and it just shut off...hard crash. Tried rebooting and it won't boot. I can't even get to the BIOS. From the Q codes it looks like it is working on memory operations before shut off, so my guess is the memory crapped out.
> 
> The unfortunate part about the RAM blocks and hard acrylic is, I have to do a full tear down to replace the memory. Because of this I am trying to think of some upgrades I may be able to do.
> 
> Any one have any experience with the phanteks enthoo primo case? It looks like an interesting wuth it's wc capacities and its price. I'd also consider a 900D or something else that you guys recommend. Want to keep it under $500 for the case.


I just finished my build in an Enthoo Primo and LOVE the case. It is gorgeous, easy to work with, priced well and on and on. With your budget, go with the Primo save some cash and get an extra SSD







If you want any pics of certain areas or things let me know and I will throw some up.


----------



## ozzy1925

here are some of the parts arrived :


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Caselabs S8! Horizontal atx mb, 360-40$ during preorder period (released next week I think?) It's closer to a cube than a tower though, so a little shorter and squatter due to the horizontal mobo.
> 
> 900D is nice, I have one and it's sturdy and very roomy for wc applications. You're paying a little extra for the name, but it works well and I've seen some nice builds done in them. The enthoo primo has also had some good reviews and happy builders. All in all, go with what will work best for your needs and looks best!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I do love the case mate (Enthoo primo) and it comes with very good 140 mm fans (5 of it). You can check my build log to have an idea of the case and its potential and also our club here in ocn. A very good case with a reasonable price. If you need to ask any questions about the case PM or place here, in the club, or my build log and will get back to you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> I just finished my build in an Enthoo Primo and LOVE the case. It is gorgeous, easy to work with, priced well and on and on. With your budget, go with the Primo save some cash and get an extra SSD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want any pics of certain areas or things let me know and I will throw some up.


Thanks for the notes guys. I wasnt aware of the S8, I'll have to take a look at it.

The Enthoo Primo is definitely top of the list right now I think


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I need help in making a decision. I have HL Black Ice GTS 360 & XSPC EX240 radiators in my loop for CPU & two GPU's. I'm using SP120 2350RPM fans, one set for each radiators in pull config. If I change the EX240 radiator to HL Black Ice SR-1 240 radiator, can it helps lowering water temp? *Can it help improved overall cooling performance?*


Nope.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2spartan*
> 
> What's the verdict on these Feser Admiral Radiators? I was thinking about getting the 240....this one:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21398/ex-rad-
> 648/Feser_Admiral_240_Extreme_Performance_Modular_Radiator_-_Black.html#blank


Stay away. Very poor performing radiator.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I had the regular blackhawk before. It was really tight between the motherboard and rear panel. Is the Ultra a little roomier?


Yup, a lot bigger. Its classified as "super tower". Its one of the triplets consisting of the identical but different fans Enermax Fulmo GT and has the basic chassis of the Xigmatek Elysium. They're not the best fit and finish cases tbh. The holes to mount the 420 didn't line up and the paint is more gray then black (same for the Elysium). But with some very lite modding, these things are wc monsters. My old Elysium had two Monsta 360s and a Monsta 240. The Fulmo GT has better fans but its the exact same thing as the cheaper Blackhawk.

Here's a recent shot of mine:


----------



## skupples

think i'm starting to understand this Fuji-FinePIX 8500.


----------



## chann3l

Added My aquacomputer block to my r9 290 and swapped my xspc bay res for an EK ddc-xres csq Pics below


----------



## skupples

oops, forgot one.


----------



## h2spartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nope.
> Stay away. Very poor performing radiator.


It's not that I don't believe you...they may very well be bad radiators but I'm just wondering how you know this?

All of the reviews and info I have searched for have nothing but positive things to say about it.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I need help in making a decision. I have HL Black Ice GTS 360 & XSPC EX240 radiators in my loop for CPU & two GPU's. I'm using SP120 2350RPM fans, one set for each radiators in pull config. If I change the EX240 radiator to HL Black Ice SR-1 240 radiator, can it helps lowering water temp? Can it help improved overall cooling performance?


I honestly dnt think it would make much of a difference, going push/pull on both rads would yield you better performance....


----------



## wermad

I hear their pretty mediocre too. You want a thick Rad, get a monsta (120 and 140 sizes available)


----------



## IT Diva

Got my little issues tidied up.









New flow meter installed,

Mount for the flow meter display

Leaking rotary 90 replaced,

Cables tidied up and re-routed with a bit of slack to offer future flexibility

Inverter for the res cathode mounted,

Valve added to the drain line.

It's beginning to look ready for prime time.

Couple more little add-ons and it'll be test run time for the Limo mobo . . .

Darlene


----------



## amorello

Hey guys I got a question, it's pretty silly but I just can't seem to figure it out. Got a MCP655 and EK D5 top, I assembled them no problem but now I am trying to connect the two to my bitspower 150ml tube res. Do I need a special kind of fitting or adapter to connect the two? (I'm using EK compression fittings)
Thanks in advance


----------



## skupples

male/male rotary most likely.

something like this


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sad day today. Was gaming on my crowbar build and it just shut off...hard crash. Tried rebooting and it won't boot. I can't even get to the BIOS. From the Q codes it looks like it is working on memory operations before shut off, so my guess is the memory crapped out.
> 
> The unfortunate part about the RAM blocks and hard acrylic is, I have to do a full tear down to replace the memory. Because of this I am trying to think of some upgrades I may be able to do.
> 
> Any one have any experience with the phanteks enthoo primo case? It looks like an interesting wuth it's wc capacities and its price. I'd also consider a 900D or something else that you guys recommend. Want to keep it under $500 for the case.


Well I left it for awhile and it booted up. Pulled up my temp monitor and cpu temp was through the roof and shut down.

So it looks like a pump failure. Unfortunately I cut the tac lead forever ago so cannot test it directly.

It also is voided warranty because I used it in a bay res abd that violates Swiftech's policy because I took the top of the DDC housing off.

Anyway, I'm still faced with having to tear the whole thing down in order to replace the pump so I am still going to look at possible upgrades.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I need help in making a decision. I have HL Black Ice GTS 360 & XSPC EX240 radiators in my loop for CPU & two GPU's. I'm using SP120 2350RPM fans, one set for each radiators in pull config. If I change the EX240 radiator to HL Black Ice SR-1 240 radiator, can it helps lowering water temp? Can it help improved overall cooling performance?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly dnt think it would make much of a difference, going push/pull on both rads would yield you better performance....
Click to expand...

I can't run push/pull on 360 but I have plenty of room for 240. Another set of SP120 for 240 rad is on the way. I was hoping to lower delta T temp with SR-1 240 push/pull.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2spartan*
> 
> It's not that I don't believe you...they may very well be bad radiators but I'm just wondering how you know this?
> 
> All of the reviews and info I have searched for have nothing but positive things to say about it.


Very curious about this as well. I got a Admiral 360 on hand, just waiting on some eLoops to throw on the thing. Only got one word, huge. My stupid self was trying to fit it in the top of my Haf X.







It fits, but can't do P/P on it up there, so into the 915F instead.


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> male/male rotary most likely.
> 
> something like this


I checked it out it's bitspower, is the green seen because it will not fit with my build.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> I checked it out it's bitspower, is the green seen because it will not fit with my build.


the green parts are o rings which you dont see after installation


----------



## stickg1

If you can see them when installed then you did something wrong!


----------



## SeeThruHead

What do you guys think about running ram and 2-3 gpu blocks in parallel (after the cpu block) using a mcp35x2. In creating a loop where any component can be removed without draining. While I'm using a ball valve and an extra line to bypass the cpu it would save me a great deal of money and headache to run the rest of the blocks in parallel. Anyone done this?


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> the green parts are o rings which you dont see after installation


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If you can see them when installed then you did something wrong!


Great thanks! So this is the only choice to mount?


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> What do you guys think about running ram and 2-3 gpu blocks in parallel (after the cpu block) using a mcp35x2. *In creating a loop where any component can be removed without draining*. While I'm using a ball valve and an extra line to bypass the cpu it would save me a great deal of money and headache to run the rest of the blocks in parallel. Anyone done this?


Make sure you post pics when youre done please, that sounds very interesting and im sure im not the only one that would like to see that.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If you can see them when installed then you did something wrong!


I can see the O-rings on mine and they work fine. I don't feel the need to use excessive force to tighten fittings because it just makes them harder to undo later.

If coloured O-rings are a problem they can just be swapped for black ones. They aren't expensive and its good to have spares anyway.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Make sure you post pics when youre done please, that sounds very interesting and im sure im not the only one that would like to see that.


After rereading what I posted I have to clarify that I mean any pc component (waterblock) the watercooling parts other than blocks will unfortunately be fixed.


----------



## DarthBaggins

well just swapped to an FX8350 CPU from my FX6100, noticing higher temps even under my xspc raystorm block, checked mounting, looks aligned w/ cpu and making good contact (cleaned block plate off and put new Thermal on). anything I could have over looked (pump is running nicely, and still have yet to add my 240 to the loop, only running my single 120 rad on push/pull with B Gears Blaster 120's (3.00 mmH2O)


----------



## stickg1

I'm having trouble deciding on a block for the 780 I just bought.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm having trouble deciding on a block for the 780 I just bought.


Ek or xspc 780/titan block....


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm having trouble deciding on a block for the 780 I just bought.


HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX Titan "Hole Edition" Reference Design Full Coverage Water Block - Nickel / Black
Heatkiller has confirmed these fit the GTX 780 Reference design


----------



## stickg1

Yeah, the heatkiller, aquacomputer, plexi EK, they all look sweet.

I'll sleep on it.

I like the little ek goldfish


----------



## Anoxy

I believe the EK blocks are still #1 in regards to VRM cooling, so if you plan to up the voltage on your cards they're your best choice.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I believe the EK blocks are still #1 in regards to VRM cooling, so if you plan to up the voltage on your cards they're your best choice.


Yes they are, a very good block. However, Stren test didn't not include the backplate in its round up of titan/780 blocks. Yet, in its recent review (ongoing) of R290 he did test the aquacomputer block with the active backplate and results are astonishing.

titan/780
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/2/

R290
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/01/r9-290x-gpu-block-performance-summary/

So, I have to wonder if the active backplate in titan/780 round up would make a difference.









http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3007&XTCsid=s4ij0qr6knnkpj1bafqnchp8h7manct0


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes they are, a very good block. However, Stren test didn't not include the backplate in its round up of titan/780 blocks. Yet, in its recent review (ongoing) of R290 he did test the aquacomputer block with the active backplate and results are astonishing.
> 
> titan/780
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/2/
> 
> R290
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/01/r9-290x-gpu-block-performance-summary/
> 
> So, I have to wonder if the active backplate in titan/780 round up would make a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3007&XTCsid=s4ij0qr6knnkpj1bafqnchp8h7manct0


Active backplate or not, I'd still take the EK personally.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm having trouble deciding on a block for the 780 I just bought.


Polished EK CSQ









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-80-1.jpg.html


----------



## Bigbrag

I recently purchased a GTX 780 too. I got it at a pretty good deal at $425 new from sabrepc. I purchased an aquacomputer nickel and plexi kryographics block and active cooling backplate, both new off ebay for pretty good prices too. I got the block for $80 and the backplate for $35. It wouldn't have been my first choice in block, but being that both parts were new and what I was able to find on them on ebay at the time for a pretty good discount, I think I will be pretty happy. I think they are arriving tomorrow or Tuesday. I'll post some pics and let people know how I like them. It is difficult to find many people using the aquacomputer kryographics blocks around here. I also scored a Swiftech H220 for $100 off NCIX which I heard couldn't be sold in the US due to some patent issues, but I managed to get one and I think it will pair nicely with my new water block. I'm hoping to fit all this in an EVGA Hadron Air which will be an extremely tight fit if successful. I got the idea after seeing the golden nugget build log. I priced out many parts but this configuration was the most performance for my dollar. I'll only have $215 into my entire liquid cooling loop which is great! My sleeving stuff actually cost as much as my liquid cooling though lol. Sleeving the server psu in the hadron is going to be a huge pain too. I'm not looking forward to that, but the results should pay off the effort.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes they are, a very good block. However, Stren test didn't not include the backplate in its round up of titan/780 blocks. Yet, in its recent review (ongoing) of R290 he did test the aquacomputer block with the active backplate and results are astonishing.
> 
> titan/780
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/2/
> 
> R290
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/01/r9-290x-gpu-block-performance-summary/
> 
> So, I have to wonder if the active backplate in titan/780 round up would make a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3007&XTCsid=s4ij0qr6knnkpj1bafqnchp8h7manct0


_"In addition the AquaComputer backplate provides a significant boost in VRM cooling. This was surprising and initially attributed to the "active" heatpipe. My expectation was that the active backplate was somewhat gimicky - a cool feature but one that might not prove to actually affect VRM temperatures much at all. Removing the heatpipe and running with just the "passive" part of the backplate shows this to match expectations. However the large effect of the backplate is mysterious right now. There are two theories - one that it's providing extra pressure to the block to cool the VRMs, and the second is that *there are thermal pads on the backplate that cover more area than the EK for example*."_

Anyone have picture of the area covered by Aqua backplate on 290/290X cards?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Active backplate or not, I'd still take the EK personally.


How could you resist this











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> _"In addition the AquaComputer backplate provides a significant boost in VRM cooling. This was surprising and initially attributed to the "active" heatpipe. My expectation was that the active backplate was somewhat gimicky - a cool feature but one that might not prove to actually affect VRM temperatures much at all. Removing the heatpipe and running with just the "passive" part of the backplate shows this to match expectations. However the large effect of the backplate is mysterious right now. There are two theories - one that it's providing extra pressure to the block to cool the VRMs, and the second is that *there are thermal pads on the backplate that cover more area than the EK for example*."_
> 
> Anyone have picture of the area covered by Aqua backplate on 290/290X cards?


That's the backplate with the pad as instructed, but basically the whole backplate acts as a cooling surface since its full Aluminium


becarefull though, I have some issue where the backplate clashed with the ram slot just by a tiny bit on my RIVBE
one way to solve it is to cut the backplate and make a room for the ram slot
else just clip off the edge of the ram slot , it's so tiny that it doesn't make a difference on the look


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2spartan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *h2spartan*
> 
> What's the verdict on these Feser Admiral Radiators? I was thinking about getting the 240....this one:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21398/ex-rad-648/Feser_Admiral_240_Extreme_Performance_Modular_Radiator_-_Black.html#blank
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nope.
> Stay away. Very poor performing radiator.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's not that I don't believe you...they may very well be bad radiators but I'm just wondering how you know this?
> 
> All of the reviews and info I have searched for have nothing but positive things to say about it.
Click to expand...

Well, it seems the images/charts to this test currently look to be dead, and unfortunately I couldn't find any mirrored posts of the test that still shows the charts (maybe someone else can dig them up?), but it's still made apparent from the text of the comparative test review and in the comments that the Admiral did very poorly compared to every other rad in the test.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?287200-Flower-Labs-News-Comparison-of-Radiator-Cooling-Efficiency

Looks like this is a copy of google's thumbnail snapshot of the charts of the 1200 and 1400 fan rpm temp results of that test. It's too small to make out, but I do believe that's the 360 Feser Admiral on the bottom of each of the charts...


----------



## kpoeticg

I've heard alot of bad feedback about the admirals too. Don't remember where specifically tho. Sorry can't remember a link


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> _"In addition the AquaComputer backplate provides a significant boost in VRM cooling. This was surprising and initially attributed to the "active" heatpipe. My expectation was that the active backplate was somewhat gimicky - a cool feature but one that might not prove to actually affect VRM temperatures much at all. Removing the heatpipe and running with just the "passive" part of the backplate shows this to match expectations. However the large effect of the backplate is mysterious right now. There are two theories - one that it's providing extra pressure to the block to cool the VRMs, and the second is that *there are thermal pads on the backplate that cover more area than the EK for example*."_
> 
> Anyone have picture of the area covered by Aqua backplate on 290/290X cards?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the backplate with the pad as instructed, but basically the whole backplate acts as a cooling surface since its full Aluminium
> 
> 
> becarefull though, I have some issue where the backplate clashed with the ram slot just by a tiny bit on my RIVBE
> one way to solve it is to cut the backplate and make a room for the ram slot
> else just clip off the edge of the ram slot , it's so tiny that it doesn't make a difference on the look
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pics. I have EK water block & backplate. I could try put extra pads on the backplate & see if it make any difference. I probably need 2mm thermal pads though.


----------



## phillyd

I replaced the stock TIM on the Larkooler SkyWater 330 kit in my friend's computer with Junpus and the results were shocking. A drop of 12C on average. I've bumped it's rating up to 4.5/5. Check out my edited review here:
http://www.overclock.net/products/larkooler-skywater-330-water-cooling-kit/reviews/6475


----------



## Gubz

Does anyone here happen to know if the old style GTX 680 EK waterblock (Non CSQ) fits a Gainward 680 Phantom pcb?


----------



## h2spartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've heard alot of bad feedback about the admirals too. Don't remember where specifically tho. Sorry can't remember a link


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, it seems the images/charts to this test currently look to be dead, and unfortunately I couldn't find any mirrored posts of the test that still shows the charts (maybe someone else can dig them up?), but it's still made apparent from the text of the comparative test review and in the comments that the Admiral did very poorly compared to every other rad in the test.
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?287200-Flower-Labs-News-Comparison-of-Radiator-Cooling-Efficiency
> 
> Looks like this is a copy of google's thumbnail snapshot of the charts of the 1200 and 1400 fan rpm temp results of that test. It's too small to make out, but I do believe that's the 360 Feser Admiral on the bottom of each of the charts...


Okay thanks...I'll just stay away from them and go for a more reputable rad from Alphacool or XSPC


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Does anyone here happen to know if the old style GTX 680 EK waterblock (Non CSQ) fits a Gainward 680 Phantom pcb?


What did the www.coolingconfigurator.com tell you??? It looks as if the only ones that do fit ARE the old CSQ's, but I might be reading it wrong.......


----------



## TimeToKill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Hey guys I got a question, it's pretty silly but I just can't seem to figure it out. Got a MCP655 and EK D5 top, I assembled them no problem but now I am trying to connect the two to my bitspower 150ml tube res. Do I need a special kind of fitting or adapter to connect the two? (I'm using EK compression fittings)
> Thanks in advance


I'm using a non rotary Male to Male fitting to connect my Pump Top to 250ml Bitspower res.







(http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=26449)

http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_3503_zps84800d10.jpg.html
Bad pic of the connection but i hope it helps.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> _"In addition the AquaComputer backplate provides a significant boost in VRM cooling. This was surprising and initially attributed to the "active" heatpipe. My expectation was that the active backplate was somewhat gimicky - a cool feature but one that might not prove to actually affect VRM temperatures much at all. Removing the heatpipe and running with just the "passive" part of the backplate shows this to match expectations. However the large effect of the backplate is mysterious right now. There are two theories - one that it's providing extra pressure to the block to cool the VRMs, and the second is that *there are thermal pads on the backplate that cover more area than the EK for example*."_
> 
> Anyone have picture of the area covered by Aqua backplate on 290/290X cards?


Ha, thks. So it is not the active backplate after all.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2spartan*
> 
> Okay thanks...I'll just stay away from them and go for a more reputable rad from Alphacool or XSPC


If you like the style of the Feser, you might check out the Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity , though they're pretty spendy and have high restriction.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Does anyone here happen to know if the old style GTX 680 EK waterblock (Non CSQ) fits a Gainward 680 Phantom pcb?


4Gb 680 Phantoms with EK cooling - performed pretty well.
they cruized along at 1225 / 3400
The exact EK parts numbers I don't know BUT could find if that would help you out.


----------



## kizwan

@lowfat & @Jamaican Reaper, thanks guys for your response. I just did my research & I probably only getting -1 to -2 degrees gain (in water temp) with SR-1 240. So, I decided to keep EX240 rad. Another set of SP120 fans already on the way to me for the EX240.


----------



## Ukkooh

I finished my first loop yesterday and so far I've had no problems but I have a few things which I am unsure of. For starters, how full should my res be? Right now I have it hafl filled just to be sure that air can escape the loop which brings us to question two. How do I know if there is any air in my loop? My res is the only clear part in the loop. Thanks in advance!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> I finished my first loop yesterday and so far I've had no problems but I have a few things which I am unsure of. For starters, how full should my res be? Right now I have it hafl filled just to be sure that air can escape the loop which brings us to question two. How do I know if there is any air in my loop? My res is the only clear part in the loop. Thanks in advance!


Fill the res up.

Air is normally recognised by a waterfall noise/dripping noise coming from the rig.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Does anyone here happen to know if the old style GTX 680 EK waterblock (Non CSQ) fits a Gainward 680 Phantom pcb?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> What did the www.coolingconfigurator.com tell you??? It looks as if the only ones that do fit ARE the old CSQ's, but I might be reading it wrong.......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 4Gb 680 Phantoms with EK cooling - performed pretty well.
> they cruized along at 1225 / 3400 - a nice little overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The exact EK parts numbers I don't know BUT could find if that would help you out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Further and more detailed info on the Gainward 680 Phantom 4Gb and compatability with EK 680 Non CSQ blocks.
Well I guess I can't help really as I have the CSQ blocks fitted - whether or not that indicates Non SCQ blocks will fit or not ????
  

My 2 x Gainward GTX 680 cards are 4Gb Phantom's
P/N NE5X680010G2-1041P

The Ek Blocks fitted are
Info from the box's;
EK-FC680 GTX+
Full Cover
Copper Acetal
and the number sequence un the bar code stripes is;
3831109856970

On the instruction sheet it adds the CSQ to the part name, so EK-FC680 GTX+ CSQ
They make a note during installation process for different thickness thermal pads to be used for Gainward/Palit cards.
1.5mm for reference cards and 0.5mm for the Gainward/Palit cards.
I guess they supply both thickness pads as my package still has both thicknesses in it - I must have used my own & not the supplied.

The backplates used are EK-FC680 GTX+ CSQ Backplate
again on the installation sheet there is reference to a slight variation for Gainward / Palit during installation.

The bridge used is the;
EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ
Funny that on the side of the pinky/purple box they describe it as a Pump accessory.


----------



## oelkanne

Anyone have this Tube? EK Water Blocks EK-Tube ZMT ?? Need more Info about it.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm using ZMT right now. What are you wondering? It looks like neoprene, but i think somebody posted in here before that it's not actually neoprene but something similar. It's a rubber tubing, so no plasticizer


----------



## oelkanne

Problem is hat i have some very tight bends to do with the next loop. And Tygon/neoprene costs too much for me personally


----------



## kpoeticg

I've never had regular neoprene tubing so it's tough for me to compare. But even though it's rubber, it's still 3/8 x 5/8, and more importantly it's still soft tubing. Tight bends will always be a problem. That's why they make angles, rotaries, etc.

There's always anti-kink coils too. The Feser ones look decent, dunno if they make em in 5/8 though. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21307/ex-tub-2022/Feser_VA_Tube_12_13mm_OD_Stainless_Steel_Anti-Kink_Connection_Set_-_Black.html?tl=g30c289s715.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Problem is hat i have some very tight bends to do with the next loop. And Tygon/neoprene costs too much for me personally


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've never had regular neoprene tubing so it's tough for me to compare. But even though it's rubber, it's still 3/8 x 5/8, and more importantly it's still soft tubing. Tight bends will always be a problem. That's why they make angles, rotaries, etc.
> 
> There's always anti-kink coils too. The Feser ones look decent, dunno if they make em in 5/8 though. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21307/ex-tub-2022/Feser_VA_Tube_12_13mm_OD_Stainless_Steel_Anti-Kink_Connection_Set_-_Black.html?tl=g30c289s715.


OMG that's crazy expensive!









I'll venture a guess that if "_Tygon/neoprene costs too much_" that $65 plus shipping for enough anti-kink for one bend will be a tad too much also.

edit: After re-reading my comment I feel I might ought to mention that I meant that Feser is insane for pricing that 10x more than it's worth (even $6.50 would be a bit steep imho for what it is). I definitely was not implying kpoeticg was crazy just for suggesting it.


----------



## oelkanne

At this Time im waiting for Monsoon to show up on AT-Germany with the Acrylic-Tubing. But i dont want to wait until Christmas. That´s why the Idea pops into my Head to redo my Loop with this Tube. And yeah much stuff to Tube =) RAM+CPU+MB+Graphics+2Slim Rads+MoRa....


----------



## SeeThruHead

Does anybody know if tygon Norprene is actually made out of neoprene?


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Problem is hat i have some very tight bends to do with the next loop. And Tygon/neoprene costs too much for me personally


I have 16/10mm EK ZMT tubing and I could do almost 90° bends with it when I tried.


----------



## nathanblandford

Heres my finished loop










Spoiler: loop complete









Spoiler: res and tubing









Spoiler: front shot







Sorry for the bad quality ill upload better pics with my camera soon


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TimeToKill*
> 
> I'm using a non rotary Male to Male fitting to connect my Pump Top to 250ml Bitspower res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=26449)
> 
> http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_3503_zps84800d10.jpg.html
> Bad pic of the connection but i hope it helps.


Looks nice thanks! But you used extensions too? Is one of these enough for me or do I need to get an extra normal compression fitting too (or one extension to make it cooler looking).


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Polished EK CSQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-80-1.jpg.html


how did you do that ?Does it void warranty?


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Does anybody know if tygon Norprene is actually made out of neoprene?


EK ZMT tubing is not neoprene and also not norprene material it's EPDM.

Look on the EKWB site http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-10mm.html they state that is is EPDM and not norprene.

''EK ZMT (Zero Maintainance Tubing) is a high quality, zero maintainance industrial grade EPDM rubber tubing in stylish matte black.

This tubing is - just like Norprene - designed to withstand harsh conditions for a very long period of time, offering a truly exceptional lifespan even under UV, ozone and heat exposure for many years.''

This is norprene from Tygon http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10486/ex-tub-646/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_38_ID_58_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s1615&id=UxKZ2jKN&mv_pc=2197

And they state this ''Norprene Industrial Grade Tubing outperforms neoprene, EPDM and other general-purpose tubings in test after test and application after application. It will not weaken or crack after years of exposure to heat and ozone. This provides long service in a wide range of applications such as gasketing, abrasion-resistant sleeving and cable insulation.''

I am going to use Tygon A-60-G in my new build or maybe go with Primochill Advanced LRT, not decided yet, I do think that the Tygon looks better then the EKWB ZMT it's a little bit more matte black and glossy looking, the EKWB is a little darker black and a little bit more flashy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That is why I recommend it as a tube,industrial and does the job.
Tubing, like most WC gear,firmly sits in the pay a little extra now or a crap load more later replacing it....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Any recommendation for clear tubing folks?


----------



## stickg1

I got that sexy Aqua arylic nickel block for my 780. Did they fix the active backplate for that? And if so where I the US can I buy one. I looked briefly from my phone on Google. I found the passive one, but no active model in the U.S..

Edit: found it. Is it worth the $50 instead of the standard one for $30? It looks pretty sweet, I just don't want it to leak obviously. Thoughts anyone. Bneg you worked with these before right?


----------



## bundymania

Hellooooooo kids


----------



## Deaf Jam

Post deleted


----------



## skupples

Ek is cloae to 10c cooler on vrms than AC without the back plate... Winder if they are the same with the plate.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I got that sexy Aqua arylic nickel block for my 780. Did they fix the active backplate for that? And if so where I the US can I buy one. I looked briefly from my phone on Google. I found the passive one, but no active model in the U.S..
> 
> Edit: found it. Is it worth the $50 instead of the standard one for $30? It looks pretty sweet, I just don't want it to leak obviously. Thoughts anyone. Bneg you worked with these before right?


The active plate only really works the titan,the plate doesn't make contact with anything on the back of the 780,the titan has VRAM on the back of the PCB.
Save your money and get the stock one.


----------



## stickg1

Gotcha, I noticed the indentations for the vRAM. But if it does nothing for the VRMs either then yeah, that $20 would be better spent elsewhere.


----------



## kizwan

If I'm not mistaken, I read in this thread about using a pump for draining. I wonder what kind of pump suitable for draining?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, I read in this thread about using a pump for draining. I wonder what kind of pump suitable for draining?


I use a cheap old Jingway 18w


----------



## skupples

I must be the only person that sticks a 1mm thick pad across the back of his gk110 vrms under the backnplate.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I must be the only person that sticks a 1mm thick pad across the back of his gk110 vrms under the backnplate.


Is 1mm enough for good contact? I use 1.5mm IIRC.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, I read in this thread about using a pump for draining. I wonder what kind of pump suitable for draining?


lol, I have used a drill pump that I connect to a cordless drill to make for speedy draining. After connecting it to my drain line and then opening a fill port it takes about 20-30 seconds to drain my loop.



I really just hooked it up almost as a joke after someone in another thread was complaining about how long it took to drain their loop. They were asking about using a schrader valve in a fitting like one might use to air pressure leak test a loop with a bicycle pump to speed up draining, and I suggested using a small pump like this on the drain line would probably be a better alternative. I already had the pump and all I needed was the fittings. Turns out it was easy to employ and it works rather well.


----------



## stickg1

I think I may have been hosed. The block I got on eBay was open box and I told the guy to make sure he sends the screws and pads. He said all that he had was in the picture, which was just the block. He's checking for me, but if I can't refund and I'm stuck with this thing, does anyone know what size screws and pads I need?

Edit: The block is the Aqua Computer Titan acrylic nickel.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use a cheap old Jingway 18w


Thanks. I probably going to get that pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, I have used a drill pump that I connect to a cordless drill to make for speedy draining. After connecting it to my drain line and then opening a fill port it takes about 20-30 seconds to drain my loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really just hooked it up almost as a joke after someone in another thread was complaining about how long it took to drain their loop. They were asking about using a schrader valve in a fitting like one might use to air pressure leak test a loop with a bicycle pump to speed up draining, and I suggested using a small pump like this on the drain line would probably be a better alternative. I already had the pump and all I needed was the fittings. Turns out it was easy to employ and it works rather well.


I can quickly drain most of the coolant by opening the ball valve & the fill port but some coolant still left in the loop. I'm going to try using a pump to see if it can get all of it out with little effort.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hellooooooo kids


_Hiiiii Al._









That Phobya pump reminds me of my old Danger Den CPX-Pro from back in the day.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think I may have been hosed.


Pun intended?


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think I may have been hosed. The block I got on eBay was open box and I told the guy to make sure he sends the screws and pads. He said all that he had was in the picture, which was just the block. He's checking for me, but if I can't refund and I'm stuck with this thing, does anyone know what size screws and pads I need?
> 
> Edit: The block is the Aqua Computer Titan acrylic nickel.


Just ask Aqua computer customer support about the screw and pad sizes. That way you can be 100% sure that you get the correct ones.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> [...] I can quickly drain most of the coolant by opening the ball valve & the fill port but some coolant still left in the loop. I'm going to try using a pump to see if it can get all of it out with little effort.


fwiw, drill pumps, besides being cheap (~$10 - assuming you already have a drill to power it) are self-priming. Unlike most water cooling pumps, drill pumps both suck & pump air and water. I've pulled water 50' through a garden hose before the water even reached the drill pump. A typical watercooling pump though needs the water to be fed to it first as they only pump out, not suck in, and they don't do well once air hits their inlet. If you're looking for a way to coax last remnants of water from your loop, I'm not sure a watercooling pump is going to be very effective at that.


----------



## stickg1

These drill pumps, are they available at a big box hardware store or is it something that needs to be ordered? Do you have a link where I could purchase one if it's not locally available.

As often as I drain my loop, this could be the best $10 I ever spent!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> These drill pumps, are they available at a big box hardware store or is it something that needs to be ordered? Do you have a link where I could purchase one if it's not locally available.
> 
> As often as I drain my loop, this could be the best $10 I ever spent!


I bought mine a long time ago at Lowes or Home Depot, when I needed to drain a crawl space and was too broke/cheap at the time to buy a sump pump.

They can be had from most any hardware store I imagine, or there's always eBay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=drill+pump









Most drill pumps are similar to mine & come with garden hose threads, so to make it work for my drain line I had to buy two 3/4" GHT x 1/2" barb fittings, and they did cost me almost $10 at my local hardware store just by themselves. Maybe they could be bought cheaper elsewhere (eBay?) or else it looks like there are some drill pumps that come with hose barbs on either end instead of the threads. The barbed pumps look to be larger than most watercooling tubing, but perhaps one might be able to make that work easier/cheaper somehow.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Dont think was posted already (apologies if I missed)&#8230;Skinnee is back!

http://skinneelabs.com/were-back/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I bought mine a long time ago at Lowes or Home Depot, when I needed to drain a crawl space and was too broke/cheap at the time to buy a sump pump.
> 
> They can be had from most any hardware store I imagine, or there's always eBay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=drill+pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most drill pumps are similar to mine & come with garden hose threads, so to make it work for my drain line I had to buy two 3/4" GHT x 1/2" barb fittings, and they did cost me almost $10 at my local hardware store just by themselves. Maybe they could be bought cheaper elsewhere (eBay?) or else it looks like there are some drill pumps that come with hose barbs on either end instead of the threads. The barbed pumps look to be larger than most watercooling tubing, but perhaps one might be able to make that work easier/cheaper somehow.


Had to get mine online even living in a big city like Sao Paulo. Not sure in US however but not all local hard stores carry it down here.

http://www.wabferramentas.com.br/ecommerce_site/produto_14038_7136_Bomba-de-agua-adaptavel-em-furadeiras-vazao-de-1500-l-h

pretty small too was thinking at first would be larger. Have a nice picture of it installed in that web site.


----------



## Ovrclck

whomever posted the PPCS valentine coupon. Thank you.

Saved close to $50


----------



## Ovrclck

Here's a cool video that shows how to setup the flushing system.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Here's a cool video that shows how to setup the flushing system.


What is efficient about that? What is more efficient than a hot tap on one of the ports?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What is efficient about that? What is more efficient than a hot tap on one of the ports?


True or this can be used to flush without having to take everything apart. Just my guess.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Nothing really, besides not using tap water.

damn you saved drafts from my cell phone.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> [...] That Phobya pump reminds me of my old Danger Den CPX-Pro from back in the day.
> [...]


Not positive, but pretty sure they're both rebranded Jingway pumps, just like they do with Laing DDCs and D5s.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> [...] That Phobya pump reminds me of my old Danger Den CPX-Pro from back in the day.
> [...]
> 
> 
> 
> Not positive, but pretty sure they're both rebranded Jingway pumps, just like they do with Laing DDCs and D5s.
Click to expand...

This,The Jingway is a stalwart pump,been around forever.

I have used them and found them to be good,if a little noisy, pump


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> how did you do that ?Does it void warranty?


A lot of wet sanding then polish. Id say it definitely voids warranty. Especially since I've polished the nickel as well.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A lot of wet sanding then polish. Id say it definitely voids warranty. Especially since I've polished the nickel as well.


tbh. that looks awesome i watched a video on you tube he used dry sand


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yep resold a whole CPU loop from my server box and the guy loved that old pump.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> whomever posted the PPCS valentine coupon. Thank you.
> 
> Saved close to $50


Your welcome, glad to help!!

And for those who might need it and didn't see the post previously, here it is again:

Anyone can use these coupon codes at
www.performance-pcs.com but you can only use one code per order, so if you use this code, you can't add the "OCN55" discount code to it.

Valentines Day is almost upon us. Customers like you are the HEART of our BUSINESS! Thank you for your continued loyalty and support each and every day.

We are also pleased to offer these money savings coupons to help purchase some moddin' goodies for you and your Sweetheart:

Spend $50-$250, get 6% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-6"
Spend $250-1000, get 7.5% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-75"
Spend over $1000, get 9% off: "IHEARTPPCS14-9"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from February 7th through February 14th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## welshy46

Hi guys and ladies. Only been water cooling for nearly a month now, still trying to find out what I want to do as my first proper build. Been messing around with ideas and trying to add to some knowledge/experience in watercooling to help me with overclocks. The 4770k I got wouldn't go past 4.5GHz with the Corsair H110 I was running, so decided to take the plunge and fit a custom loop. the pics are of my test case builds to see what I can put in a HAF xb. the next few weeks should see the start of my 'final' build in the little xb, a new case has been ordered and should be here by the weekend. Then I can make a more considered start on my build. Any chance I can join your club.


----------



## mavisky

That's almost unrecognizable as an XB. Curious to see what other case you've got on order to make use of that radiator you've got.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> That's almost unrecognizable as an XB. Curious to see what other case you've got on order to make use of that radiator you've got.


It's another XB, really found it hard not to order a Corsair 540. Similar in lay out, just one of them is on it's side compared to other. settled on the XB because there's not as many I've seen with custom loops. Till I found this site anyway. Thought if I'm going to learn then I might as well jump in at the deep end. The 540 or more likely it's successor by the time I'm ready for a new case, will be at the top of my list. Although the Phobya WaCoolT Cube is a possibility if i end up with too much kit to fit in the XB.

with the Hexa 720 and an acool 240mm rad, temps are no longer the issue they were. I'm running prime95 now and the temps are around 60c - 64c @4.8GHz. So pleased it can keep it's cool in such a small case, nearly did the acrylic window roof mod on it at weekend but thought against it. Losing the 200mm roof fan might just tip the temps too far to the hot side, above all this build is for performance, asthetics comes a close second. still needs to look right sat in the lounge, but it's the cooling side of water cooling I want to exploit to the fullest.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> It's another XB, really found it hard not to order a Corsair 540. Similar in lay out, just one of them is on it's side compared to other. settled on the XB because there's not as many I've seen with custom loops. Till I found this site anyway. Thought if I'm going to learn then I might as well jump in at the deep end. The 540 or more likely it's successor by the time I'm ready for a new case, will be at the top of my list. Although the Phobya WaCoolT Cube is a possibility if i end up with too much kit to fit in the XB.
> 
> with the Hexa 720 and an acool 240mm rad, temps are no longer the issue they were. I'm running prime95 now and the temps are around 60c - 64c @4.8GHz. So pleased it can keep it's cool in such a small case, nearly did the acrylic window roof mod on it at weekend but thought against it. Losing the 200mm roof fan might just tip the temps too far to the hot side, above all this build is for performance, asthetics comes a close second. still needs to look right sat in the lounge, but it's the cooling side of water cooling I want to exploit to the fullest.


Did you delid your 4770K?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Did you delid your 4770K?


not yet, Iwanted to see if this one was any good before I did. I think I'm going to use this one, it'll hold 4.8GHz without drama now it's correctly cooled. Don't see the point in buying another in the hope it might be a better chip. I have the vice and block of wood ready. Anyone know what the best TIM to use on the chip. I was going withGelid gc extreme, but I'm open to suggestions.

this is an exert from an overclocking guide on the republic of gamers site. It doesn't say how many 4770k's they tested, but mine looks like a good'un according to the article. This is my second 4770k, the first went belly up after less than a week. that was at 4.6GHz. i was that convinced it was the board, I RMA'd it only to be told it was fine, bring us your chip. which they eloquently described as dead.


----------



## ozzy1925

i need an advise: thinking of buying bitspower rigid fittings but not sure matte black or silver shining ?.As i tested matte black wears out easily no idea about silver one.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i need an advise: thinking of buying bitspower rigid fittings but not sure matte black or silver shining ?.As i tested matte black wears out easily no idea about silver one.


I think you should base it on the color tubing you will be using....


----------



## IT Diva

Hey gang,

Got some more work done on my tech bench today.

Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time









Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.

Darlene


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Got some more work done on my tech bench today.
> 
> Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks like a lot of fun. What are all the looping tubes and ball valves for?


----------



## Mikecdm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Got some more work done on my tech bench today.
> 
> Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What you've done there looks really interesting but I really can't tell whats going on. Do you have a log or can you share some of the details. I would really like to know more about it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Got some more work done on my tech bench today.
> 
> Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks like a lot of fun. What are all the looping tubes and ball valves for?
Click to expand...

The 2 arcs, or loops as you call them, are taking the place of the GPU and CPU/mobo loops so that I can run the system to bleed and leak test.

The valves let me close off the system when everything is disconnected between projects so I don't have to drain it.

Darlene


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 2 arcs, or loops as you call them, are taking the place of the GPU and CPU/mobo loops so that I can run the system to bleed and leak test.
> 
> The valves let me close off the system when everything is disconnected between projects so I don't have to drain it.
> 
> Darlene


That really does look like a lot of fun. I want the Easy V3.0, but after seeing your bench setup no matter what I did, it would feel inadequate, LOL. I really like it though, so clean and shiny. If I had something like that sitting out my 4 year old would be on it like white on rice. So probably a bad idea..


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Got some more work done on my tech bench today.
> 
> Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.
> 
> Darlene


WE WANT A BUILD LOG! So we can all copy this beauty


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikecdm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Got some more work done on my tech bench today.
> 
> Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you've done there looks really interesting but I really can't tell whats going on. Do you have a log or can you share some of the details. I would really like to know more about it.
Click to expand...

I have a major build in progress, but I really needed a tech bench to be able to do all the setup before putting it all in a rather exotic build.

If you pick up on the last 10 pages or so of the build log here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/790

You'll be up to speed and I think all the questions will be answered.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> I have a major build in progress, but I really needed a tech bench to be able to do all the setup before putting it all in a rather exotic build.
> 
> If you pick up on the last 10 pages or so of the build log here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/790
> 
> You'll be up to speed and I think all the questions will be answered.
> 
> Darlene


Hey D... What do you do with your systems? Fold? Game? Mine? Code? Render?


----------



## stickg1

Okay so I got a refund on the AC Kryo Titan because finding the hardware will be more trouble than it's worth.

Especially since I paid $110 for it and I can get a new one with all the accs for $130.

So now I'm still undecided. The EK Titan or Aqua Titan? The Aqua with backplate comes out to ~$155, the EK with backplate ~$135.


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay so I got a refund on the AC Kryo Titan because finding the hardware will be more trouble than it's worth.
> 
> Especially since I paid $110 for it and I can get a new one with all the accs for $130.
> 
> So now I'm still undecided. The EK Titan or Aqua Titan? The Aqua with backplate comes out to ~$155, the EK with backplate ~$135.


The big thing to look at IMO is which cools the VRM section better. The EK wins big time on that end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDyYliSo-Hw

Nice long review on lots of blocks. The result chart on the VRM is shown @ about 23 minute mark.

Hopefully this makes it an easy choice for you.


----------



## skupples

Not sure if anyone has re-reviewed the Titan block with the active back plate. As linked 8-9 hours ago, the Aquacomputer DESTROYS EK in all ways with the active back plate.










but, from what we know, EK is #1 titan block... EK has two different Titan plates, it seems most of the short blocks are shipping with the older revision, and the full covers are shipping with the new revision. Both of them cool 99.99% the same. The new revision exists because they needed to make a 780ti block, and didn't want multiple plates. The only difference between the Titan & 780Ti block is the screw holes, & the name etched into it.


----------



## stickg1

Wrong GPU!!

I think I'll just get the EK and save $20.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not sure if anyone has re-reviewed the Titan block with the active back plate. As linked 8-9 hours ago, the Aquacomputer DESTROYS EK in all ways with the active back plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but, from what we know, EK is #1 titan block... EK has two different Titan plates, it seems most of the short blocks are shipping with the older revision, and the full covers are shipping with the new revision. Both of them cool 99.99% the same. The new revision exists because they needed to make a 780ti block, and didn't want multiple plates. The only difference between the Titan & 780Ti block is the screw holes, & the name etched into it.


Because their backplate is the best out there. Almost 1/4" thick.


----------



## stickg1

Well I did it, I placed the order. I'm ready to rock out with my block out!


----------



## mocboy123

Here is my humble rig. Please don't criticize. I don't have 4 Titans or CaseLabs but I worked pretty hard on this and I am happy with my system. It was my first time ever watercooling, and I had a few leaks, broken parts, and overall issues, but it is finally done. Thanks for looking.

https://imageshack.com/i/nrh5igj
https://imageshack.com/i/n8dna7j
https://imageshack.com/i/f11qyvj
https://imageshack.com/i/jjfblwj
https://imageshack.com/i/10ifl7j
https://imageshack.com/i/muqykyj
https://imageshack.com/i/4jdg4gj
https://imageshack.com/i/0un1mrj
https://imageshack.com/i/0vjmrgj
https://imageshack.com/i/n8b7uaj
https://imageshack.com/i/nbrvnfj
https://imageshack.com/i/e9l6f5j
https://imageshack.com/i/fkre72j
https://imageshack.com/i/mkra0cj
https://imageshack.com/i/n8vohoj
https://imageshack.com/i/f7zhuoj
https://imageshack.com/i/gv3yioj
https://imageshack.com/i/mrp4ogj
https://imageshack.com/i/f2fpc8j


----------



## VSG

No one's going to say anything bad about that, it looks amazing!


----------



## King4x4

Hydra 2 pics incoming!




















Just finished testing the pedestal electrically.... PWM signal is fine fine fine!

At 2200 rpm:


at 1600 rpm:


at 1200 rpm I clocked 37 dBA.
At lowest PWM setting (60%... the fans flactuate from 60% to 100%... the 60% being the slowest) the fans were running at 800 rpm and I was reading 28 dBA.

Best part? at 1200 rpm they were comparable to my old yate loons while being a lot quiter.

Now to test them when I have all rad fans connected to one PWM header and that one is connected to the CPU fan on the mobo.... You clock... the whole PC goes LOCO!


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mocboy123*
> 
> Here is my humble rig. Please don't criticize. I don't have 4 Titans or CaseLabs but I worked pretty hard on this and I am happy with my system. It was my first time ever watercooling, and I had a few leaks, broken parts, and overall issues, but it is finally done. Thanks for looking.
> https://imageshack.com/i/muqykyj


Nice bro. If you turn the right fan around you'd be able to route the cable for it a bit better and not have it hanging from the front.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Wrong GPU!!
> 
> I think I'll just get the EK and save $20.


I was drawing a parallel, but when looking @ the block them selves it looks like AC did a complete re-working on the 290 blocks, it's obviously not just the back plate, as it only drops it by 1-2c.

Maybe they will push some of that magic onto the next nvidia generation, because those are some sexy temps for how hot those AMD VRM's run.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Nice bro. If you turn the right fan around you'd be able to route the cable for it a bit better and not have it hanging from the front.


I'm guessing that's the only pin he can put his fan on and he doesn't have an extender so that's the only way it'll reach.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mocboy123*
> 
> Here is my humble rig. Please don't criticize. I don't have 4 Titans or CaseLabs but I worked
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> pretty hard on this and I am happy with my system. It was my first time ever watercooling, and I had a few leaks, broken parts, and overall issues, but it is finally done. Thanks for looking.
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/nrh5igj
> https://imageshack.com/i/n8dna7j
> https://imageshack.com/i/f11qyvj
> https://imageshack.com/i/jjfblwj
> https://imageshack.com/i/10ifl7j
> https://imageshack.com/i/muqykyj
> https://imageshack.com/i/4jdg4gj
> https://imageshack.com/i/0un1mrj
> https://imageshack.com/i/0vjmrgj
> https://imageshack.com/i/n8b7uaj
> https://imageshack.com/i/nbrvnfj
> https://imageshack.com/i/e9l6f5j
> https://imageshack.com/i/fkre72j
> https://imageshack.com/i/mkra0cj
> https://imageshack.com/i/n8vohoj
> https://imageshack.com/i/f7zhuoj
> https://imageshack.com/i/gv3yioj
> https://imageshack.com/i/mrp4ogj
> https://imageshack.com/i/f2fpc8j


Gentle Typhoons. They will go down in history as the most beloved fan in history. I'm glad that I have 30 of them. Hopefully they last a good long time.









Looks good! Looks much better than my first loop...



Hell, I was using the bleed port on my monsta !


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No one need be embarrassed cause they can't post pics of a rig with hardware worth many thousands. There's a lot more to the hobby and the art (and thus the thread) than how much you have to spend.

Besides who wants to see all the same stuff in every single pic?


----------



## iBored

Love the use of bitspower fittings mate. Bending acrylic tube is too mainstream. Haha


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not sure if anyone has re-reviewed the Titan block with the active back plate. As linked 8-9 hours ago, the Aquacomputer DESTROYS EK in all ways with the active back plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but, from what we know, EK is #1 titan block... EK has two different Titan plates, it seems most of the short blocks are shipping with the older revision, and the full covers are shipping with the new revision. Both of them cool 99.99% the same. The new revision exists because they needed to make a 780ti block, and didn't want multiple plates. The only difference between the Titan & 780Ti block is the screw holes, & the name etched into it.


Epic failed with EK water block + backplate for 290/290X. Even Aqua without backplate running a couple degrees cooler than EK + backplate. Seriously....









Shame on you EK water block + backplate for 290/290X...


----------



## kpoeticg

Looks like there's only like a 1*C difference between active and passive backplates for the AC's. I'm glad i saw that chart before i ordered my backplates


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epic failed with EK water block + backplate for 290/290X. Even Aqua without backplate running a couple degrees cooler than EK + backplate. Seriously....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Shame on you EK water block + backplate for 290/290X...


his results are so vastly different that it's almost hard to believe. Like maybe it was a REALLY cold day, during that test or something. a 15C difference? That's easy to swallow when it's 60c to 45C, but 45c down to 20-25c?

AC with no back plate to with back plate is an almost 20c difference... that's nuts really... I would love to see some one reproduce these results.

The temps for EK on 290x are almost identical to the titan test results.

it's also interesting how EK barely responds to flow rates, but AC has a pretty big response.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> his results are so vastly different that it's almost hard to believe. Like maybe it was a REALLY cold day, during that test or something. a 15C difference? That's easy to swallow when it's 60c to 45C, but 45c down to 20-25c?
> 
> AC with no back plate to with back plate is an almost 20c difference... that's nuts really... I would love to see some one reproduce these results.
> 
> The temps for EK on 290x are almost identical to the titan test results.
> 
> it's also interesting how EK barely responds to flow rates, but AC has a pretty big response.


Yeah, that seems like it's really skewed, I think there must have been some error there.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Wow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it keeps getting better.


Damn... That is beautiful.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epic failed with EK water block + backplate for 290/290X. Even Aqua without backplate running a couple degrees cooler than EK + backplate. Seriously....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shame on you EK water block + backplate for 290/290X...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


More like shame on AMD for releasing such a hot running card.


----------



## TimeToKill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Looks nice thanks! But you used extensions too? Is one of these enough for me or do I need to get an extra normal compression fitting too (or one extension to make it cooler looking).


I used Extension's to connect my pump (out) to my mid-plate/EX-360, The fitting I linked is connecting my Bitspower 250ml Res to my Dual EK D5 Top









http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_3568_zps6b1be06b.jpg.html

I used extension's for a cleaner look then compression or barb fittings ( Purely for look's )

Recently Re-Did my loop still not 100% done
ColdZero 900D Midplate
Ek Dual D5 Top
Bitspower Everywhere
*Before:*
http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_1790_zps52d584d5.jpg.html
*After:*
http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_3420_zpsf5678048.jpg.html
http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_3431_zpsea52d011.jpg.html
Pump out to Ex-360 & Drain Valve
http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_3442_zps759f539c.jpg.html
Sli GTX 580 1.5gb( Old but still good )
http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_3450_zps7f8c87aa.jpg.html
EK Supreme HF Waterblock
http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_3422_zps61821067.jpg.html
http://s361.photobucket.com/user/timetokill101/media/IMG_3531_zps0d0fce67.jpg.html

Really disliking the looks of my 580 waterblock's, Wishing i got nickel








MSI Z77 Mpower with the VRM Cover's removed
Still need to sleeve my sound card cables

Really Mad my GPU (in) hole/tube is so far off, Math Fail!


----------



## Slinky PC




----------



## Anoxy

Is that a sponsored build? So much branding..looks cool though


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Besides the fact that your build is over the top in gaudiness, why oh why would you ruin every acrylic run and reservoir by slapping every manufacturer's logo known to earth on them?

No offense, but it completely ruins the build, at least to me. At least I can stomach the other over-the-top parts of the build. But it would be my suggestion by making it a lot more clean. Not even most sponsored builds have that much branding (if any) on them.

Also, @skupples, you need a Photon reservoir in your build. It think it would go fantastic with your build (of which looks fantastic).


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TimeToKill*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Looks nice thanks! But you used extensions too? Is one of these enough for me or do I need to get an extra normal compression fitting too (or one extension to make it cooler looking).
> 
> 
> 
> I used Extension's to connect my pump (out) to my mid-plate/EX-360, The fitting I linked is connecting my Bitspower 250ml Res to my Dual EK D5 Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used extension's for a cleaner look then compression or barb fittings ( Purely for look's )
> 
> Recently Re-Did my loop still not 100% done
> ColdZero 900D Midplate
> Ek Dual D5 Top
> Bitspower Everywhere
> *Before:*
> 
> *After:*
> 
> 
> Pump out to Ex-360 & Drain Valve
> 
> Sli GTX 580 1.5gb( Old but still good )
> 
> EK Supreme HF Waterblock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really disliking the looks of my 580 waterblock's, Wishing i got nickel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MSI Z77 Mpower with the VRM Cover's removed
> Still need to sleeve my sound card cables
> 
> Really Mad my GPU (in) hole/tube is so far off, Math Fail!
Click to expand...

Huge improvement. Nice work!!

Have you considered maybe one of the BP Off-Center fittings to try and compensate for you mis-measuring?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> " class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1880585" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1880585/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 375px">
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> " class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1852672" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1852672/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 667px">
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1826354" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1826354/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 450px">
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Besides the fact that your build is over the top in gaudiness, why oh why would you ruin every acrylic run and reservoir by slapping every manufacturer's logo known to earth on them?
> 
> No offense, but it completely ruins the build, at least to me. At least I can stomach the other over-the-top parts of the build. But it would be my suggestion by making it a lot more clean. Not even most sponsored builds have that much branding (if any) on them.
> 
> Also, @skupples
> , you need a Photon reservoir in your build. It think it would go fantastic with your build (of which looks fantastic).
Click to expand...

I use EK silicon tube for banding. If I was able to pule it out the acrylic run will be fine.. 250l/h.
My rig show you only the manufacture that I use to build it. Why so much... because I can








By removing all unnecessary cables personal I see it very clean... not cables at all. But.. I agree with you, can be more clean with out those stickers








p.s. pure chrome stickers.. like waterblocks


----------



## Slinky PC

How to watercool your ddc pumps with EK Ram


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Got some more work done on my tech bench today.
> 
> Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.
> 
> Darlene


amazing detail, especially for a test bench. I hope my final build is a 10th as good as this. Had a quick scan of a couple of your other builds, mind is blown . Your attention to detail is. I'd say next level, but it's more like a different game.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Got some more work done on my tech bench today.
> 
> Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey Darlene,
Way to do a test bench! Looks great!!!


----------



## /\/_|_\/\

Some crazy cool builds recently. I love them all.


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not sure if anyone has re-reviewed the Titan block with the active back plate. As linked 8-9 hours ago, the Aquacomputer DESTROYS EK in all ways with the active back plate.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epic failed with EK water block + backplate for 290/290X.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> his results are so vastly different that it's almost hard to believe.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yeah, that seems like it's really skewed, I think there must have been some error there.


You guys do realise that that graph is showing VRM temps, not GPU temps?

Not that VRM temps are unimportant, and Aquacomputer clearly have some amazing backplate tech going on, but still ... this is the more relevant graph:


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288109-Stren-s-R9-290-290x-Water-Block-Testing


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You guys do realise that that graph is showing VRM temps, not GPU temps?
> 
> Not that VRM temps are unimportant, and Aquacomputer clearly have some amazing backplate tech going on, but still ... this is the more relevant graph:
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288109-Stren-s-R9-290-290x-Water-Block-Testing


Very much realize it's referring to VRM temps. But thank you for the other graph also!!


----------



## SeeThruHead

I would argue that vrm temps are the more important thing to compare. Especially since core temps across blocks are so close. That's why we are looking at that graph primarily.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I would argue that *vrm temps are the more important thing to compare*. Especially since core temps across blocks are so close. That's why we are looking at that graph primarily.


That's what Martin said, and Stren replied that the R9 290X VRMs are designed to run hot. So how important is it really?

Is there any evidence for this card, that cooler VRMs can lead to a better overclock or something?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is that a sponsored build? So much branding..looks cool though










no is not, but let me tall you that one of those titans was approved for rma in a minute and I will received today after less there a week including weekend


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's what Martin said, and Stren replied that the R9 290X VRMs are designed to run hot. So how important is it really?
> 
> Is there any evidence for this card, that cooler VRMs can lead to a better overclock or something?


Honestly I don't know whether core temp or vrm will even be a limiting factor when overclocking under water. But when the core temp results are all basically the same. How else are we to compare them.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Edit.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no is not, but let me tall you that one of those titans was approved for rma in a minute and I will received today after less there a week including weekend


I KNOW WHO YOU ARE GODDAMNIT! YOU NBA HALF TIME PERFORMER


----------



## SinatraFan

Slinky PC....

Love your build. Is it branded, heck ya, but that's the way you wanted it. Keep on moddin my friend.









By the way, what coolant did you use? I LOVE IT!


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no is not, but let me tall you that one of those titans was approved for rma in a minute and I will received today after less there a week including weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I KNOW WHO YOU ARE GODDAMNIT! YOU NBA HALF TIME PERFORMER
Click to expand...

 come to see it live


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Slinky PC....
> 
> Love your build. Is it branded, heck ya, but that's the way you wanted it. Keep on moddin my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, what coolant did you use? I LOVE IT!


F1 Feser One NON CONDUCTIVE Fluid (Yellow) mixed with Aquacomputer GlowMotion (yelllow)
Under UV light will become more Green that Yellow








This is the best I can do to came closer to the GEFORCE GTX Lights from Titans
P.S. Also mixed with a little Primochill Intensity green.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> come to see it life


harhar, i live in Singapore. tough luck =C


----------



## GaMbi2004

you gotta be kidding me







is that you?
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xthcr5_the-one-and-only-veniamin-s-human-slinky_creation
Im your biggest fan, lol ^^


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> come to see it life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> harhar, i live in Singapore. tough luck =C
Click to expand...

I have one of my performers on Magical World of Toys in City Square Mall Singapore (5 years ago)


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I have one of my performers on Magical World of Toys in City Square Mall Singapore (5 years ago)


ik where City Square Mall is! =D


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> you gotta be kidding me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is that you?
> http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xthcr5_the-one-and-only-veniamin-s-human-slinky_creation
> Im your biggest fan, lol ^^


The title of the vid says everything








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I have one of my performers on Magical World of Toys in City Square Mall Singapore (5 years ago)
> 
> 
> 
> ik where City Square Mall is! =D
Click to expand...

I don't.. maybe you show me next time when I stop in Singapore


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I have one of my performers on Magical World of Toys in City Square Mall Singapore (5 years ago)
> 
> 
> 
> ik where City Square Mall is! =D
Click to expand...

I don't.. maybe you show me next time when I stop in Singapore


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I don't.. maybe you show me next time when I stop in Singapore


OK! BE SURE TO BRING YOUR RIG! I WILL SHOW U MINE TOO


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I don't.. maybe you show me next time when I stop in Singapore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK! BE SURE TO BRING YOUR RIG! I WILL SHOW U MINE TOO
Click to expand...

OMG.. I can't move my rig.. sorry it's 40KG!


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> OMG.. I can't move my rig.. sorry it's 40KG!


MINE IS 30


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> OMG.. I can't move my rig.. sorry it's 40KG!
> 
> 
> 
> MINE IS 30
Click to expand...

Then beater you come to florida


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Then beater you come to florida


I'm in Florida! *grabs pc, opens door and starts walking* if you see a guy carrying a pc bigger than himself, stop that dude, it'll be me probably


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Then beater you come to florida


I WILL WALK ACROSS THE PACIFIC OCEAN FOR YOU


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Then beater you come to florida
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in Florida! *grabs pc, opens door and starts walking* if you see a guy carrying a pc bigger than himself, stop that dude, it'll be me probably
Click to expand...

A guy carrying a pc bigger than himself... hahahah, You Make My Day Bro.


----------



## SinatraFan

Where in FL Slinky? I'm in O town


----------



## Fahrenheit85

First time water cooling. Fingers still hurt from the fittings. Best part about it is running Prime 95 and Valley at the same time with the NoiseBlockers at 50% is keeping things nice and cool. Gonna put in more LED lighting at some point. Also wanna want to change how the GPU to Pump line goes. Wanted to get it on that first hole so the CPU line would be shorter but the bend was to tight to get it hooked up. Had to switch it out to the outside hole.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Got some more work done on my tech bench today.
> 
> Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.
> 
> Darlene


I'd be afraid a doctor would unexpectedly wheel that into my room along with a staff of nurses, tell me to undress, lay on the table, pull off one of those tube fittings, and say "this might sting a bit".


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> 
> 
> First time water cooling. Fingers still hurt from the fittings. Best part about it is running Prime 95 and Valley at the same time with the NoiseBlockers at 50% is keeping things nice and cool. Gonna put in more LED lighting at some point. Also wanna want to change how the GPU to Pump line goes. Wanted to get it on that first hole so the CPU line would be shorter but the bend was to tight to get it hooked up. Had to switch it out to the outside hole.


Looks good, for the LED color choice I'd suggest not using red but instead white, to bring out the current colors.


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time water cooling. *Fingers still hurt from the fittings*. Best part about it is running Prime 95 and Valley at the same time with the NoiseBlockers at 50% is keeping things nice and cool. Gonna put in more LED lighting at some point. Also wanna want to change how the GPU to Pump line goes. Wanted to get it on that first hole so the CPU line would be shorter but the bend was to tight to get it hooked up. Had to switch it out to the outside hole.


I felt the same after doing my first loop. I had tightened the compression fittings too tight and had to undo them all again, took me a good hour to undo the four tubes running to my rez. My fingers were red raw for days and are still a little dry and rough today, 2 months later


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Looks good, for the LED color choice I'd suggest not using red but instead white, to bring out the current colors.


Yeah, might just go with one of them Ebay RGB strips, they even have a UV mode on them. The coolant I used is UV reactive so it might be cool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> I felt the same after doing my first loop. I had tightened the compression fittings too tight and had to undo them all again, took me a good hour to undo the four tubes running to my rez. My fingers were red raw for days and are still a little dry and rough today, 2 months later


Yeah man was not ready for that. I cheated and used my vise grips on my last fitting (the front 360 90, you can see its jacked up) and even with its rubber pads on it it still toke off the powered coat or whatever it is on the fitting.,


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You guys do realise that that graph is showing VRM temps, not GPU temps?
> 
> Not that VRM temps are unimportant, and Aquacomputer clearly have some amazing backplate tech going on, but still ... this is the more relevant graph:
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288109-Stren-s-R9-290-290x-Water-Block-Testing


Actually that it least relevant for me as they are all extremely close 1-3c is nothing really. This is why I focus on the VRM when picking blocks. Once again Stren's results are in extremely low temp ranges. He must live in an ice box.

@Stren Do you live in an ice box?


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Besides the fact that your build is over the top in gaudiness, why oh why would you ruin every acrylic run and reservoir by slapping every manufacturer's logo known to earth on them?
> 
> No offense, but it completely ruins the build, at least to me. At least I can stomach the other over-the-top parts of the build. But it would be my suggestion by making it a lot more clean. Not even most sponsored builds have that much branding (if any) on them.
> 
> Also, @skupples
> , you need a Photon reservoir in your build. It think it would go fantastic with your build (of which looks fantastic).


you're right about the 2 "nvidia" decals,

but wrong about the 2 "geforce" decals---those ones are AWSOME!!! symmetry ftw


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Got some more work done on my tech bench today.
> 
> Couple more little details to work on . . and connect the temp sensors, but pretty much ready for prime time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to set up the mobo and GPU's tomorrow and see how the R4BE behaves.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think that washing machine is definitely getting an inferiority complex









Nice Work!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please do not double/triple post. Edit your previous posts please


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Actually that it least relevant for me as they are all extremely close 1-3c is nothing really. This is why I focus on the VRM when picking blocks. Once again Stren's results are in extremely low temp ranges. He must live in an ice box.
> 
> @Stren Do you live in an ice box?


Lol those are temperature deltas, i.e. Core Temp - Coolant Temp. Ambient is more like 27C in here when I'm testing blocks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> I felt the same after doing my first loop. I had tightened the compression fittings too tight and had to undo them all again, took me a good hour to undo the four tubes running to my rez. My fingers were red raw for days and are still a little dry and rough today, 2 months later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah man was not ready for that. I cheated and used my vise grips on my last fitting (the front 360 90, you can see its jacked up) and even with its rubber pads on it it still toke off the powered coat or whatever it is on the fitting.,
Click to expand...

^---v








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Coated palm work gloves are worth their weight in gold imho when assembling a build (or working on anything really, like replacing a faucet or a car battery or ...). They don't cost much at all (I buy them by the dozen for < $2 a pr), are comfortable and have a 'grip' surface on the palms/fingers that doesn't get in the way even when working with tiny parts/screws/nuts, keep fingerprints off everything, and totally save your fingers from turning into hamburger from twisting and tightening compressions, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> I've gotten so used to using them that my hands feel naked without them whenever I'm working on pretty much anything. I literally keep new pairs here, there, and everywhere.
> 
> Tip: Wear them small-sized / tight-fitting for your hands.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Lol those are temperature deltas, i.e. Core Temp - Coolant Temp. Ambient is more like 27C in here when I'm testing blocks


ready for a repost?

I'm ready..



i'm pre-coffee.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Lol those are temperature deltas, i.e. Core Temp - Coolant Temp. Ambient is more like 27C in here when I'm testing blocks


Stren, have you by any chance tested the Titan/780 aquacomputer block with the backplate on it? I am asking because of the drastic effect you observed in the R290x block/backplate.


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> ^---v


Ha, started off wearing my work gloves but I couldn't get a feel on them fitting with them on.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ill tell you what, that is definitely not my style but it looks great!

This is a perfect example of why PC's are like cars. You see if every car at a car show was simply very clean without the over the top systemed out airbrushed, jumping 10ft into the air cars, Car shows and cars in general would be a very boring thing.

With that said with all the brands it reminds me of an indy, touring, nascar race car with all the branding on it lol.

Oh and where do you perform, Im in Otown.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> Ha, started off wearing my work gloves but I couldn't get a feel on them fitting with them on.


I say that to the misses all the time too.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Besides the fact that your build is over the top in gaudiness, why oh why would you ruin every acrylic run and reservoir by slapping every manufacturer's logo known to earth on them?
> 
> No offense, but it completely ruins the build, at least to me. At least I can stomach the other over-the-top parts of the build. But it would be my suggestion by making it a lot more clean. Not even most sponsored builds have that much branding (if any) on them.
> 
> Also, @skupples
> , you need a Photon reservoir in your build. It think it would go fantastic with your build (of which looks fantastic).


are those the double helix ones? I looked at them but they were all old out in the colors I wanted. =(


----------



## VSG

The double helix ones are the FrozenQ Mods Liquid Fusion, the XSPC Photon is this: http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Photon-270-Tube-Reservoir-3x-G14-Ports_41646.html


----------



## Recr3ational

*I don't know who you are. I don't know what you want. If you are looking for ransom, I can tell you I don't have money. But what I do have is a finished PC. A PC that i finished by looking at this thread. If you just accept my thanks, that'll be the end of it. I will not look for you, I will not pursue you. But if you don't, I will look for you, I will find you, and I will kill you.*

Thanks guys. I haven't posted here. Just been lurking. Looking for ideas.


----------



## Penryn

Guys,

Let's stay on topic.

Thanks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

edit: ok


----------



## stickg1

Well that was creepy..

Can't wait to get my 780 wet!

Diva has me wanting to go through with the test bench idea and do two separate loops. Then I can have my yellow AND purple! Grape Koolaid meet Sunny D!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> *I don't know who you are. I don't know what you want. If you are looking for ransom, I can tell you I don't have money. But what I do have is a finished PC. A PC that i finished by looking at this thread. If you just accept my thanks, that'll be the end of it. I will not look for you, I will not pursue you. But if you don't, I will look for you, I will find you, and I will kill you.*
> 
> Thanks guys. I haven't posted here. Just been lurking. Looking for ideas.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks real nice, like the blacked out theme. Are you planning on adding any lighting in the top left to bring out the blue in the pipes?


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks real nice, like the blacked out theme. Are you planning on adding any lighting in the top left to bring out the blue in the pipes?


Yeah the XSPC CPU block has LED's in it. Just waiting for a molex extension to finish it off.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Stren, have you by any chance tested the Titan/780 aquacomputer block with the backplate on it? I am asking because of the drastic effect you observed in the R290x block/backplate.


Sadly no - Nvidia doesn't allow us access to VRM temp sensors, so my VRM temps on Titan/780 testing was done with a probe that I stuck on the back of the PCB, but that meant no backplates could be fitted. My suspicion with the AC backplate is that it's just about the extra areas that AC add thermal pads to that others don't. I'm hoping to prove that soon


----------



## stickg1

I watched your Titan block review YouTube video last night. I decided on the EK 780ti plexi/nickel. I plan to really abuse my 780 so VRM cooling (and slightly lower cost) swayed me in the end. Thanks for the review.

I also don't like to shave often so props on the stubble!


----------



## ozzy1925

i already bought 2x ut 60 480mm for my 900d.If i add 1 more ut 60 240mm. How many degrees will it cooler?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Sadly no - Nvidia doesn't allow us access to VRM temp sensors, so my VRM temps on Titan/780 testing was done with a probe that I stuck on the back of the PCB, but that meant no backplates could be fitted. My suspicion with the AC backplate is that it's just about the extra areas that AC add thermal pads to that others don't. I'm hoping to prove that soon


I can easily believe this from my own results putting thermals between the back plate and vrms on ek blocks.I stuck a temp sensor in between the block and card to get an idea of temps since the IR is no longer accurate with Tue extra thermal pads. Reports ~ 5c lower than w.o the pads.


----------



## stickg1

Word? Maybe I'll try that..


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I watched your Titan block review YouTube video last night. I decided on the EK 780ti plexi/nickel. I plan to really abuse my 780 so VRM cooling (and slightly lower cost) swayed me in the end. Thanks for the review.
> 
> I also don't like to shave often so props on the stubble!


Lazy shaving ftw


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Where in FL Slinky? I'm in O town


Orlando


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i already bought 2x ut 60 480mm for my 900d.If i add 1 more ut 60 240mm. How many degrees will it cooler?


-What components ?
-What OC on those components ?
-What Fan Speed ?

@ 1250 rpm .....

UT60x480 = 251 watts w/ one fan / 303 watts in push / pull .....

You essentially have two and a half of those .... so 628 watts w/ one fan / 758 watts in push / pull

That's way more than enough for a 4770k and twin 780s which need about 450 watts of cooling (60% of load handled by rads) to produce a Delta T of 10C. I'd expect a Delta T of about 7.1C with single fans @ 1250 rpm and 4.4C in push / pull.

@ 1000 rpm .....

UT60x480 = 201 watts w/ one fan / 244 watts in push / pull .....

You essentially have two and a half of those .... so 503 watts w/ one fan / 610 watts in push / pull

Again, hat's way more than enough for a 4770k and twin 780s which need about 450 watts of cooling (60% of load handled by rads) to produce a Delta T of 10C. I'd expect a Delta T of about 8.9C with single fans @ 1000 rpm and 7.4C in push / pull.

I really don't see the value of adding a 240 when ya already have two 480s.

Two 480s should with just one set of fans should give ya about 9C at 1250 rpm with twin 780s (+25% OC) and a 4770k (4.6 - 4.8GHz). It certainly will not improve your OCs as you are no where near being temperature limited with the two 48os w/ just 2 GFX cards.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> -What components ?
> -What OC on those components ?
> -What Fan Speed ?
> 
> @ 1250 rpm .....
> 
> UT60x480 = 251 watts w/ one fan / 303 watts in push / pull .....
> 
> You essentially have two and a half of those .... so 628 watts w/ one fan / 758 watts in push / pull
> 
> That's way more than enough for a 4770k and twin 780s which need about 450 watts of cooling (60% of load handled by rads) to produce a Delta T of 10C. I'd expect a Delta T of about 7.1C with single fans @ 1250 rpm and 4.4C in push / pull.
> 
> @ 1000 rpm .....
> 
> UT60x480 = 201 watts w/ one fan / 244 watts in push / pull .....
> 
> You essentially have two and a half of those .... so 503 watts w/ one fan / 610 watts in push / pull
> 
> Again, hat's way more than enough for a 4770k and twin 780s which need about 450 watts of cooling (60% of load handled by rads) to produce a Delta T of 10C. I'd expect a Delta T of about 8.9C with single fans @ 1000 rpm and 7.4C in push / pull.
> 
> I really don't see the value of adding a 240 when ya already have two 480s.
> 
> Two 480s should with just one set of fans should give ya about 9C at 1250 rpm with twin 780s (+25% OC) and a 4770k (4.6 - 4.8GHz). It certainly will not improve your OCs as you are no where near being temperature limited with the two 48os w/ just 2 GFX cards.


wow ,thats a lot the math +rep .I will stick with what i have and sorry for the miss info.Altough you answered my questions.I will be running 1x 4770k @1.36v-1,38 and 2x gtx 680 (not sure about oc speeds) and 4 slot of ram.Will get 12x ap15 for the rads. the top one as push and pull and the buttom one with either push or pull.


----------



## kpoeticg

BP has the mini-valves in red, carbon, and true brass now. FCPU just started selling em along with the Scythe Grand Flex and Scythe Kama Panel 3.1. Dunno if any1 cares or not. I like that Kama Panel though

http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p1/201402/NewProducts-Page1.html


----------



## skupples

I can't wait for some one to review those new scythe fans. They look like they have even larger dead spots than the typhoons.


----------



## MiiX

UT60 360, or Monsta 280, whats best?
It seems for me its the Monsta:
12 * 36 * 6 = 2592
14 * 28 * 8 = 3136

Also, As Its impossible to get bGears in Europe, whats the best *140mm* fans? Akasa Vipers?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I can't wait for some one to review those new scythe fans. They look like they have even larger dead spots than the typhoons.


Somebody posted in here a few pages back asking for recommendations on fans to order for testing purposes. I wonder if he's still around and could add another...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I can't wait for some one to review those new scythe fans. They look like they have even larger dead spots than the typhoons.


The verdict so far doesn't seem too good. I'd like to see Stren, Bundy, BNEG, or Darlene show some real data from them too. But i'm not too hopeful right now

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> UT60 360, or Monsta 280, whats best?
> It seems for me its the Monsta:
> 12 * 36 * 6 = 2592
> 14 * 28 * 8 = 3136
> 
> Also, As Its impossible to get bGears in Europe, whats the best *140mm* fans? Akasa Vipers?


I say UT60 360 off the top of my head.

140mm's your best choices would probly be Noiseblocker PK-3's, Akasa Vipers, Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex, B-Gears, San Ace (If you're rich)


----------



## skupples

(hordes his 30 typhoons) YOU CAN'T HAVE THEM.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, yeah i need to order a few more AP-15's and try to get a few more AP-00's (if i can find more) just to have around. I'm pretty confident that Nidec will find some1 else to market them or just do it themselves. Definitely my favorite rad fans though

Would be freakin wonderful to get some gray blades with PWM though!!!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's what Martin said, and Stren replied that the R9 290X VRMs are designed to run hot. So how important is it really?
> 
> Is there any evidence for this card, that cooler VRMs can lead to a better overclock or something?


I can not comment about 290s but VRM temp definitely has an impact on overclocking stability with GK110 cards.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I can't wait for some one to review those new scythe fans. They look like they have even larger dead spots than the typhoons.


SPCR took a look at them and the results weren't good. Safe to say they are not a suitable replacement for an AP-15: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1361-page5.html
Quote:


> Despite or because of all its unusual design elements, the Grand Flex was disappointing. Its cooling proficiency was as lackluster as its sound quality. There are plenty of fans that sound terrible and perform well or vice versa, but the Grand Flex falls is closer to the negative side of the spectrum on both accounts.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> (hordes his 30 typhoons) YOU CAN'T HAVE THEM.


Yeah I horded away 18 AP-15s myself when I thought they might stop making / selling them. Turns out that was just a hoax false alarm. Scythe may no longer be distributing them, but Nidec is going to continue to make them regardless.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Actually that it least relevant for me as they are all extremely close 1-3c is nothing really. This is why I focus on the VRM when picking blocks. Once again Stren's results are in extremely low temp ranges. He must live in an ice box.
> 
> @Stren Do you live in an ice box?


The graphs are showing deltas. So 40-45C core temps seem rather reasonable to me.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Some of you may not like my acrylic bends, but I'm really happy with the way this loop turned out... Kind of reminds me of a Pac-Man maze.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2023.jpg.html


----------



## Anoxy

lol...reminds me of my friend. I was trying to explain acrylic tubing to him and he asked me why I don't just make them all "crazy zig-zags"


----------



## kpoeticg

I think that looks awesome. Love that waterfall effect. You got a build log?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> lol...reminds me of my friend. I was trying to explain acrylic tubing to him and he asked me why I don't just make them all "crazy zig-zags"


See... I would be forced to make double-helix's all over my case if I went acrylic.


----------



## Neo Zuko

So I am seeing a lot of acrylic tubing, is that the new hotness? Just before that It was copper pipes. I was thinking about what to do my first water cooling project in.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> See... I would be forced to make double-helix's all over my case if I went acrylic.


You could probably get away with it by wrapping two pieces of heated acrylic around a cylindrical object (a res maybe), side by side, then separate them when cooled.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So I am seeing a lot of acrylic tubing, is that the new hotness? Just before that It was copper pipes. I was thinking about what to do my first water cooling project in.


It's been the trend in the last few months. The biggest downfalls would be the cost and the time to make exact measurements for the pipes (especially bends). The good part is that you can always rely on it to stay clear and to keep its shape unlike some tubing that have plasticizing issues.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It's been the trend in the last few months. *The biggest downfalls would be the cost and the time to make exact measurements for the pipes (especially bends).* The good part is that you can always rely on it to stay clear and to keep its shape unlike some tubing that have plasticizing issues.


I freehanded all of my measurements, and believe me, I went through a lot of tubes because of that. But most of it was because I didn't heed the warnings of the more experienced acrylic benders. Those bends in the pic above were literally done with my very last piece of acrylic (originally had 8 sticks). I just took my time and heated the acrylic on a lower setting.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I could see how making exact measurements could be tricky. You would have to over measure, bend, cut, then hope it all lines up after a bend. Same with copper I suppose. Not sure if I want that kind of project, but it does look nice when done. I'd do it but my main concern would be leaks, is it more dangerous to or prone to leaking vs normal tubing?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> come to see it live
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> harhar, i live in Singapore. tough luck =C
Click to expand...

see you there


----------



## Neo Zuko

Somehow I still "Feel" safer with copper pipes as an idea vs acrylic.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I could see how making exact measurements could be tricky. You would have to over measure, bend, cut, then hope it all lines up after a bend. Same with copper I suppose. Not sure if I want that kind of project, but it does look nice when done. I'd do it but my main concern would be leaks, is it more dangerous to or prone to leaking vs normal tubing?


The Monsoon kit has the tools for precise measuring/bending/cutting of acrylic tubing, as shown in their how-to videos:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [...] Monsoon hardline kit videos:
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_2.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_3.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_Heatgun_Kit.mp4


Having tried bending every which way possible the Monsoon kit/method makes it SOOOOO much easier.


----------



## Neo Zuko

wow, i may buy that kit. So leak wise, is acrylic tubes as safe as any other loop?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I could see how making exact measurements could be tricky. You would have to over measure, bend, cut, then hope it all lines up after a bend. Same with copper I suppose. Not sure if I want that kind of project, but it does look nice when done. I'd do it but my main concern would be leaks, is it more dangerous to or prone to leaking vs normal tubing?


Well to be fair to myself, I just didn't create a complete piece then try to match it up to each fitting... I'd make a couple of bends, then bring it back over to the build to make sure I'm on the right track - eventually going back and forth from bending to measuring until I got the piece right. That top zigzag and GPU piece were the only two pieces where I used that method. In the end though it all paid off.


----------



## Neo Zuko

That gangster baby GIF avatar you have is messing with me lol. With my mind on my mommy and my mommy on my mind.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> wow, i may buy that kit. So leak wise, is acrylic tubes as safe as any other loop?


I'd say so in most cases. Acrylic obviously won't work as well in all instances like for use with quick disconnects or whatnot.

Everything you might ever want to know about acrylic tubing can be found on this thread, & most of what you'd need to know in the first post ...

*Acrylic Pipebending 101*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> wow, i may buy that kit. So leak wise, is acrylic tubes as safe as any other loop?


I used that kit as a guide, but I found that I needed tighter 90 degree angles in most cases, so I exceeded the parameters of the Monsoon mandrels and bent the acrylic a little tighter. That's how I was able to get really hard right angles.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I remember some would say that acrylic water blocks could crack for example vs copper or plastic.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I used that kit as a guide, but I found that I needed tighter 90 degree angles in most cases, so I exceeded the parameters of the Monsoon mandrels and bent the acrylic a little tighter. That's how I was able to get really hard right angles.


What if anything did you use as a form/jig for your 90's if I may ask?!?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I remember some would say that acrylic water blocks could crack for example vs copper or plastic.


Exposing them directly to an alcohol based cleaning solution will do that.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> wow, i may buy that kit. So leak wise, is acrylic tubes as safe as any other loop?


You should use only non conductive fluid, just in case


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Exposing them directly to an alcohol based cleaning solution will do that.


is that the case with the pipes as well?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You should use only non conductive fluid, just in case


Like what? If that was truly worth it I think everyone would be oil cooling or whatever.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> What if anything did you use as a form/jig for your 90's if I may ask?!?


I went with the Monsoon kit all the way throughout this build, but just as the acrylic started to cool down and harden around the mandrel, I removed it immediately and bent it another 5 degrees more to get a sharper bend. As much of a Godsend as that Monsoon kit was for my build, in most cases, the 90 degree mandrel was just too broad.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I went with the Monsoon kit all the way throughout this build, but just as the acrylic started to cool down and harden around the mandrel, I removed it immediately and bent it another 5 degrees more to get a sharper bend. As much of a Godsend as that Monsoon kit was for my build, in most cases, the 90 degree mandrel was just too broad.


Thanks for the prompt reply. +1


----------



## Neo Zuko

Was it because you have small case or is it that the tools are poorly designed?


----------



## Ukkooh

Here is a picture of my first loop ever. Finished it on last sunday. I'd like to join the club.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Was it because you have small case or is it that the tools are poorly designed?


I wouldn't say it's poorly designed at all. It's just that there's a certain threshold of bending that can't be addressed by using that mandrel only. I've had to exceed the limits of the mandrel because I needed shorter pieces of acrylic bent in 90 degree angles than what the kit could achieve with the pieces it came with. For example, when I needed to do my flow indicator bends, I would have needed to create a 90 degree bend the length of the mandrel to get the full effect of that 90 degree bend. That's unacceptable, because I needed the acrylic pieces to be no longer than 3 inches in length, tops... So after some trial and error, I started to realize I couldn't completely rely on the kit, because there were just certain things that it couldn't accomplish... That's why I'm starting to see why some people have gone the extra distance and created their own elaborate mandrel bends at home.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Here is a picture of my first loop ever. Finished it on last sunday. I'd like to join the club.


Thats tight!


----------



## TimeToKill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Huge improvement. Nice work!!
> 
> Have you considered maybe one of the BP Off-Center fittings to try and compensate for you mis-measuring?


Never even knew those existed!
I was thinking about enlarging the hole another 3mm and make or buy a washer large enough to cover the mess but still allow enough room for the Pass-though fitting to.. pass-through.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Here is a picture of my first loop ever. Finished it on last sunday. I'd like to join the club.


Looks pretty clean for a first-time loop. Congrats!


----------



## Angrychair

i like that fat tubing.

that's what she said.


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Thats tight!


It actually was a very tight fit. One of the plugs on the 240mm rad touches the 140mm rear fan and the fittings on the 360mm rad touch the bottom ssd/hdd slot.


----------



## DoktorTerror

new project being worked








http://www.overclock.net/t/1465810/build-log-mamba-540/0_20


----------



## bundymania




----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


Definitely looking forward to a Bundymania review of the new XSPC RX V3. Wonder how well it will compare to previous versions. At a glance it seems like the changes they made will affect cooling performance, I assume for the better, but perhaps make them a little less friendly to low-speed fans? Not sure. Bundy will find out!


----------



## bundymania

I want to include the rad in my review within the next 2 weeks

http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads


----------



## Kokin

I'm excited for reviews of that rad!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> I want to include the rad in my review within the next 2 weeks
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads


Thanks for all you do! Rad testing doesn't look to be easy.

I do see from here that XSPC is claiming almost a 10% performance boost at all fan speeds, but I would really like to see it from an independent reviewer, especially in comparison to other rads.



Wonder what delta they are factoring for 600 watt dissipation?
Probably safe to say it's not Jack's 10C 'industry standard'. lol


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Was it because you have small case or is it that the tools are poorly designed?


I personally think the mandrels are slightly too tight on the bend. Pretty much anyone that i have talked too agrees. They waste 3-4 times as much tubing with the mandrels versus some random household object to so the bends.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

The AP 15's are out of production....at least from Scythe so getting hard to find. The OEM is reportedly going to start selling them direct..... but Id go for something slower (1200 ish rpm

This is the latest fan test I can find.....120s shaded in gray

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html

Scythe's are still around tho...

1150 rpm - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10029/fan-642/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1150_RPM_D1225C12B3AP-13.html?tl=c15s60b14
1450 rpm - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10210/fan-654/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1450_RPM_D1225C12B4AP-14.html?tl=c15s60b14
1850 rpm - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1850_RPM_D1225C12B5AP-15_Hot_Item_.html?tl=c15s60b14


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The AP 15's are out of production....at least from Scythe so getting hard to find. The OEM is reportedly going to start selling them direct..... but Id go for something slower (1200 ish rpm
> 
> This is the latest fan test I can find.....120s shaded in gray
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html
> 
> Scythe's are still around tho...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1150 rpm - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10029/fan-642/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1150_RPM_D1225C12B3AP-13.html?tl=c15s60b14
> 1450 rpm - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10210/fan-654/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1450_RPM_D1225C12B4AP-14.html?tl=c15s60b14
> 1850 rpm - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1850_RPM_D1225C12B5AP-15_Hot_Item_.html?tl=c15s60b14


AP-15s (or any of the other Gentle Typhoon series) are not "out of production". Nidec owns all the rights to the design and Gentle Typhoon name, has always manufactured them, and has said they have no plans to stop making them. The only change is Scythe will no longer be marketing/distributing them for Nidec.

Taking Nidec at their word, I wouldn't expect to see anything but temporary shortages, but I'm not really seeing any shortages yet, at least not in the US. Coolerguys has them. Sidewinder's still selling them at a good price. FCPU seems to be having more in stock every time I check (they have over 550 AP-15s in stock atm). Amazon has them (through Platinum Micro at their typically inflated prices). And so on ...

REALLY don't trust that SPCR review either, at least not in how the fans might perform on a rad. Testing done on air coolers have never panned out to have comparable results for watercooling.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 1150 rpm - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10029/fan-642/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1150_RPM_D1225C12B3AP-13.html?tl=c15s60b14
> 1450 rpm - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10210/fan-654/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1450_RPM_D1225C12B4AP-14.html?tl=c15s60b14
> 1850 rpm - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1850_RPM_D1225C12B5AP-15_Hot_Item_.html?tl=c15s60b14


Why no link to the 3000 rpm?









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12363/fan-809/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_3000_RPM_D1225C12B7AP-29.html

They're still more quiet than a Dell R9xx


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> UT60 360, or Monsta 280, whats best?
> It seems for me its the Monsta:
> 12 * 36 * 6 = 2592
> 14 * 28 * 8 = 3136
> 
> Also, As Its impossible to get bGears in Europe, whats the best *140mm* fans? Akasa Vipers?


Phanteks SP140

As for the rads, depth is just about meaningless at reasonable sound levels.......by the time the air is half way through the Monsta, it has risen in temp to just a degree or two above the coolant so there is very little heat exchange thru the 2nd half of the rad

Even the ST30-360 outperforms the 280 Monsta .... At 1250 rpm ....

The Monsta 280 provides 179 watts in push / 216 watts in push pull

The ST30-360 provides 181 watts in push / 219 watts in push / pull.
The XT450-360 provides 183 watts in push / 222 watts in push / pull.
The UT60-360 provides 188 watts in push / 227 watts in push / pull.
The Monsta-360 provides 197 watts in push / 239 watts in push / pull.

So as ya can see... ya get 219 watts thru the 1st 30 mm and ....
.... and extra 15mm (45) gets ya just 3 watts (1.4% more performance for 50% depth increase)
.... and extra 30mm (60) gets ya just 8 watts (3.7% more performance for 100% depth increase)
.... and extra 50mm (80) gets ya just 20 watts (9.1% more performance for 166% depth increase)

This starts to diminish at higher fan speeds as by pushing more air thru the rad, the time the air is in the rad is less to the temp rise is slower

At 1800 rpm for example .....

The Monsta 280 provides 255 watts in push / 309 watts in push pull
The UT60-360 provides 269 watts in push / 325 watts in push / pull.

And finally at close H100 sound levels, the Monsta will finally pull ahead at 2200 rpm

The Monsta 280 provides 331 watts in push / 401 watts in push pull
The UT60-360 provides 326 watts in push / 394 watts in push / pull


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Phanteks SP140
> 
> As for the rads, depth is just about meaningless at reasonable sound levels.......by the time the air is half way through the Monsta, it has risen in temp to just a degree or two above the coolant so there is very little heat exchange thru the 2nd half of the rad
> 
> *Even the ST30-360 outperforms the 280 Monsta .... At 1250 rpm ....*
> [...]


Stopped reading there.
I do not believe that for a second.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads/0_20


*EDIT:*
OK my bad. I (mis)read that as a comparison between a 360 ST30 and a 360 Monsta. Didn't notice it was an apples and oranges 360 to 280. Oops.

That said, I don't think there's ever been any testing done to compare different sized rads like that and in no way do I trust Jack's extrapolations, ESPECIALLY with regards towards his slanted bios towards 140mm fans on rads and how he went about with his calculations regarding them in his 'Radiator Size Estimator' thread. In my experiences with 140mm fans on rads, and I've tried a plenty, I have never gotten even close to those results.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> AP-15s (or any of the other Gentle Typhoon series) are not "out of production". Nidec owns all the rights to the design and Gentle Typhoon name, has always manufactured them, and has said they have no plans to stop making them. The only change is Scythe will no longer be marketing/distributing them for Nidec.
> 
> Taking Nidec at their word, I wouldn't expect to see anything but temporary shortages, but I'm not really seeing any shortages yet, at least not in the US. Coolerguys has them. Sidewinder's still selling them at a good price. FCPU seems to be having more in stock every time I check (they have over 550 AP-15s in stock atm). Amazon has them (through Platinum Micro at their typically inflated prices). And so on ...
> 
> REALLY don't trust that SPCR review either, at least not in how the fans might perform on a rad. Testing done on air coolers have never panned out to have comparable results for watercooling.


Bad wording .... shud have said Scythe is outta the loop....and I did say, still manufactured by the OEM.

I have complete faith in the SPCR review.....my experience and published reviews / testing have shown a consistent correlation between air coolers and rads .... if anything air coolers present a much tougher test then rads because of the tighter fin spacing. And the Phanteks RAD review that was previously posted here confirmed it.....one day I'm gonna take the time to find that url again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Stopped reading there.
> I do not believe that for a second.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads/0_20
> 
> 
> *EDIT:*
> *OK my bad. I (mis)read that as a comparison between a 360 ST30 and a 360 Monsta. Didn't notice it was an apples and oranges 360 to 280. Oops.*
> 
> That said, I don't think there's ever been any testing done to compare different sized rads like that and in no way do I trust Jack's extrapolations, ESPECIALLY with regards towards his slanted bios towards 140mm fans on rads and how he went about with his calculations regarding them in his 'Radiator Size Estimator' thread. In my experiences with 140mm fans on rads, and I've tried a plenty, I have never gotten even close to those results.


Well you do work very hard at trying to find fault .... perhaps if you weren't so anxious to jump in and criticize, you wouldn't "stop reading" until ya read the whole post ..... I think you will find that would would lead to fewer "oops" edits. We have been here several times before where you have thrown out unsupported and off base criticisms. In the last cupla weeks, you've launched criticisms for other things "you didn't believe":

1. You took issue with my post and didn't believe the coolant temperature would be below the freezing point of water when a user reported CPU Core Temp at 0C. I have yet to see a cooling system where the coolant wasn't cooler than the CPU Cores.

2. You took issue with my post and didn't believe that the bottom inlet with a 280 on the bottom of the Enthoo Primo was less restricted than the top 420. Seemed to me the "highly restricted" 280 (w/ 1.3C delta T inlet to outlet) should not be doing 30% more cooling if the top 420 (1.0C Delta T inlet to outlet) was not more severely restricted. This fact was borne out by removing the top grille, lifting the case up 3" off the desk, removing the fan filter and watching the Delta T's reverse.

3. You took issue with my post and didn't believe that coolant temps vary "more than 0.5C throughout the loop" ..... despite temp sensors showing 2.3C at 2 gpm

The really funny part is your argument makes my position that the thicker Monsta is not the best choice here even stronger....if the 280 does not give a proportionate increase in cooling, then the Monsta will provide even less cooling than I indicated making the argument for the 360 even stronger.

I would be most anxious to see the results of your "a plenty" rad / fan testing and which new 140mm designs you have tested on modern 9-12 fpi rads as well as what your temp sensors in and out of each rad showed and whether the fans were audible while testing. I am primarily interested in the 450 - 1250 rpm range. SPCR showed a reversal of the former dominance of 120s on air coolers and now 140mm's "own" air cooling with 9 outta the top 11 spots in the test.

Logic dictates that such a remarkable increase in performance of the new design 140s on air coolers (were their tight fin spacing creates a bit of challenge for many fans) in recent testing should reshuffle the deck quite a bit on radiators also. I'd expect, given that reversal, that the new design 140s would also do much better than they had than in the older tests on radiators.....and I'd also expect this to be more pronounced in the "quiet" 450 - 1250 rpm range than up in the 1800 rpm range where I think the smaller fans will maintain an edge as, up there and higher I think blade flexing will start to reduce both their thermal and acoustic performance. To my mind, it's not a unreasonable assumption that the top 140mm fans will have a comparable air flow density at comparable noise levels to the Titan Kukri 120s used in martin's testing, Given the staunchness of your position, you must have hard data on current designs to the contrary and if that's the case, I certainly would like to see it and revise the estimator accordingly.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> amazing detail, especially for a test bench. I hope my final build is a 10th as good as this. Had a quick scan of a couple of your other builds, mind is blown . Your attention to detail is. I'd say next level, but it's more like a different game.


She blows my mind every time I see posts like these!


----------



## pkrexer

Pics of my first water build:

D5 Pump, feeding AX240 rad (top) + RX240 rad (front)... Connected by 1/2" ID tubing.


----------



## Ovrclck

Anyone familiar with ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB? Would I be able to control the fans rpm's with this block? I think I would need to power one of the fans with a molex and connect the rpm wire to one of ports on the block? The fans are AP-15's..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Anyone familiar with ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB? Would I be able to control the fans rpm's with this block? I think I would need to power one of the fans with a molex and connect the rpm wire to one of ports on the block? The fans are AP-15's..


I'm running 10-14 ap-15s through the 5 way 3pin splitter. I don't have an rpm reader but they appear to run just as fast as the one i have running off of the mobo. Powered via aquaero 6. Also aquaero has issues reading rpm thorugh them for what ever reason.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have one of those on the way...should be here saturday. I'll have a V3 and a V2 in the same system so we'll see how they fare.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Anyone familiar with ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB? Would I be able to control the fans rpm's with this block? I think I would need to power one of the fans with a molex and connect the rpm wire to one of ports on the block? The fans are AP-15's..


3 pin fan speeds are not controlled by the rpm wire. They are controlled by voltage. The rpm wire is there to report fan speeds to motherboards and fan controllers. The 4 pin molex input to 3-pin output PCB is for connecting to a power supply. It could possibly be wired up to a fan controller but only the 12v and ground wires go to each fan so you wouldn't get fan rpm reporting.

Are you wanting to control 3-pin fan speeds with a fan controller? The largest MMT splitter for that purpose is their 3-Pin Male (input) to 5 x 3-pin Male (outputs). If you want a spolitter that will let you attach more fans than that on a channel then the NZXT Grid is probably worth looking into.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Pics of my first water build:
> 
> D5 Pump, feeding AX240 rad (top) + RX240 rad (front)... Connected by 1/2" ID tubing.


Nice parts and looking pretty good. Though, aesthetically, might I suggest a 90 rotary coming off the GPU which will allow a nice rounded section of tube to the front rad instead of that limp-lookin thing.









Or use the top port out as well instead I suppose.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Anyone familiar with ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB? Would I be able to control the fans rpm's with this block? I think I would need to power one of the fans with a molex and connect the rpm wire to one of ports on the block? The fans are AP-15's..


Bitspower X-Station if you don't want to rig them up to your motherboard. It'll give you the option of running them at full 12V, 7V, or 5V.

-Zepp


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 3 pin fan speeds are not controlled by the rpm wire. They are controlled by voltage. The rpm wire is there to report fan speeds to motherboards and fan controllers. The 4 pin molex input to 3-pin output PCB is for connecting to a power supply. It could possibly be wired up to a fan controller but only the 12v and ground wires go to each fan so you wouldn't get fan rpm reporting.
> 
> Are you wanting to control 3-pin fan speeds with a fan controller? The largest MMT splitter for that purpose is their 3-Pin Male (input) to 5 x 3-pin Male (outputs). If you want a spolitter that will let you attach more fans than that on a channel then the NZXT Grid is probably worth looking into.


On my old build, I was using a Phobya fan splitter using 4 x 3-pin which were powered via my Lamptron Fc2. I would like to keep that same functionality but with using the PCB blocks to eliminate cable clutter.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Bitspower X-Station if you don't want to rig them up to your motherboard. It'll give you the option of running them at full 12V, 7V, or 5V.
> 
> -Zepp


Hi Zepp,
With the X-Station, I would be able to take one channel from my Fc2 into the BP and control them correct? Just making sure I understand.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Pics of my first water build:
> 
> D5 Pump, feeding AX240 rad (top) + RX240 rad (front)... Connected by 1/2" ID tubing.


She's a beauty, pkrexer! Nice white touches - you paint the fan? My parts just came in to convert mine from black & red to black & white


----------



## pkrexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Nice parts and looking pretty good. Though, aesthetically, might I suggest a 90 rotary coming off the GPU which will allow a nice rounded section of tube to the front rad instead of that limp-lookin thing.


Thanks for the suggestions! I was looking at getting some rotary fittings when I had bought all my stuff, but performance-pcs were out of them







I don't personally think it looks all that bad, not worth draining my loop for. But whenever I do, I'll definitely be picking some up









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> She's a beauty, pkrexer! Nice white touches - you paint the fan? My parts just came in to convert mine from black & red to black & white


Thanks! Its just the stock fractal fan that came pre-installed in my case. I just so happened to be wanting to do a black-white theme, so it worked out good.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Anyone familiar with ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB? Would I be able to control the fans rpm's with this block? I think I would need to power one of the fans with a molex and connect the rpm wire to one of ports on the block? The fans are AP-15's..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm running 10-14 ap-15s through the 5 way 3pin splitter. I don't have an rpm reader but they appear to run just as fast as the one i have running off of the mobo. Powered via aquaero 6. Also aquaero has issues reading rpm thorugh them for what ever reason.


Since they're Power Distribution PCB's, the rpm wire from your fans isn't being routed through the PCB. It just takes the 12v & Ground and sends em to a Molex. All you'd need to do is take the RPM wire/pin out of one of the fans that you plug into the pcb and route it to the connector that plugs into the fan header on your Aquaero or whatever else is controlling it. Then you'd get perfect RPM feedback


----------



## RickRockerr

I think my setup is finally "finished"
Only little painting to do







I think that I sell this when this thing cannot do all the things I need and start new build from a scratch








And I am definitely going to sleeve all my cabels by myself when I start new build


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Self-sleeving just ain't for me lol. Even were I better with my hands no way do I have that much patience.


----------



## kpoeticg

Looks awesome. Great pics!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hi Zepp,
> With the X-Station, I would be able to take one channel from my Fc2 into the BP and control them correct? Just making sure I understand.


The X-Station uses a 4-pin molex from the PSU as an input and splits it off to 12v, 7v, and 5v 3-pin outputs. It's meant to be used as an option to control fan speeds without a fan controller, not to be used with a fan controller.

If you want a PCB splitter for your fan controller, as opposed to cable splitters (ask B Neg about those Phobya splitters -







- not-a-fan), then what you want is something like the '3-Pin Male to 5 x 3-pin Male' from ModMyToys ...



Or if you need to split it to more than 5 fans you can use an NZXT Grid which can split a 3-pin input from a fan controller to up to 10 fans @ 30 watts (shown with and without the cover):



However, and I'm not positive it's the same with the ModMyToys one, but I know for a fact that the NZXT Grid splits all three wires including the rpm signal wire to all 10 ports. This will cause issues with the rpm reading in most fan controllers.

What it should have is all three wires including the rpm wire only going to one of the outputs (and this port should always have one fan connected to it), and only the 12v and ground wires to all of the others. If more than one fan is reporting on the rpm wire then the signal gets corrupt and the fan controller won't get a good reading. It's pretty easy to fix though.

I suspect the ModMyToys PCB is the same as the Grid in that respect or else I'm not even understanding why all of the 3-pin ports would have all 3 pins present, plus I don't see any marking on the PCB or documentation saying which port, if there is only one, has the live rpm signal wire, as this is needed info unless you are definitely going to have fans on all the ports.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Phanteks SP140
> 
> As for the rads, depth is just about meaningless at reasonable sound levels.......by the time the air is half way through the Monsta, it has risen in temp to just a degree or two above the coolant so there is very little heat exchange thru the 2nd half of the rad
> 
> Even the ST30-360 outperforms the 280 Monsta .... At 1250 rpm ....
> 
> The Monsta 280 provides 179 watts in push / 216 watts in push pull
> 
> The ST30-360 provides 181 watts in push / 219 watts in push / pull.
> The XT450-360 provides 183 watts in push / 222 watts in push / pull.
> The UT60-360 provides 188 watts in push / 227 watts in push / pull.
> The Monsta-360 provides 197 watts in push / 239 watts in push / pull.
> 
> So as ya can see... ya get 219 watts thru the 1st 30 mm and ....
> .... and extra 15mm (45) gets ya just 3 watts (1.4% more performance for 50% depth increase)
> .... and extra 30mm (60) gets ya just 8 watts (3.7% more performance for 100% depth increase)
> .... and extra 50mm (80) gets ya just 20 watts (9.1% more performance for 166% depth increase)
> 
> This starts to diminish at higher fan speeds as by pushing more air thru the rad, the time the air is in the rad is less to the temp rise is slower
> 
> At 1800 rpm for example .....
> 
> The Monsta 280 provides 255 watts in push / 309 watts in push pull
> The UT60-360 provides 269 watts in push / 325 watts in push / pull.
> 
> And finally at close H100 sound levels, the Monsta will finally pull ahead at 2200 rpm
> 
> The Monsta 280 provides 331 watts in push / 401 watts in push pull
> The UT60-360 provides 326 watts in push / 394 watts in push / pull


The fact that the XT45 push pull beats the UT60 push removed the UT60 from the equation, since I dont have space for 60mm rad and push pull fans. But I do have space with 45mm rads. The push pull fan setup should also make less noise?

And I wont be doing 1800RPM just to justify the huge space used by the Monsta!

Your intelligence amuses me. Keep it up!


----------



## skupples

That's a pretty common opinion. You only want to use 60mm thick rads when in push pull, with FAT bladed fans.


----------



## Roxycon

@Unicr0nhunter and/or whoever knows, is that fan splitter hub the solution people do with the aquaero 6 too? or do i have to use the poweradjust thingy?









I shall connect 11 pwm fans and use the phanteks hub for the remaining 5 3-pin fans, for the pwm i was hoping to get to use the swiftech hub(s)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @Unicr0nhunter and/or whoever knows, is that fan splitter hub the solution people do with the aquaero 6 too? or do i have to use the poweradjust thingy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shall connect 11 pwm fans and use the phanteks hub for the remaining 5 3-pin fans, for the pwm i was hoping to get to use the swiftech hub(s)


The splitter hub/PCBs I was discussing above were for a 3-pin fan controller. If you want to split PWM from a mobo or from an Aquaero 6 you'll need a 4-Pin one like the Swiftech 8-Way PWM splitter, or I think ModMyToys makes a couple PWM PCBs that are similar. They combine the PWM signal from a CPU header on your mobo or a PWM-capable fan controller like the AQ6 and the 12v from your PSU and split it to 4-pin PWM fans.


----------



## hyp36rmax

She's coming along quite well









SG05 Build


----------



## liquidguy

Went from this monstrosity of a set up while I was indecisive as where I wanted to go with it. You can follow my build in my build thread there is much more to come. http://www.overclock.net/t/1466682/liquid-build-rev-1-corsair-corsair-540-case-ongoing-build-lots-of-pics-start-with-the-basics-going-to-end-up-with



To this.


----------



## Anoxy

What do you guys think about these fan filters? Fine enough to do an effective job?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20921/ffi-171/Silverstone_Ultra_Fine_120mm_Magnetic_Fan_Filter_-_White_SST-FF123W.html?tl=g47c223s548#blank


----------



## skupples

has anyone here used the 3,000 RPM Tyhpoons?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What do you guys think about these fan filters? Fine enough to do an effective job?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20921/ffi-171/Silverstone_Ultra_Fine_120mm_Magnetic_Fan_Filter_-_White_SST-FF123W.html?tl=g47c223s548#blank


I'm using the black ones to those on my bottom rad and they do a good job....


----------



## Anoxy

Whoops linked the wrong ones.

Meant these

But if those aren't any good, I would just go with the silverstone.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Whoops linked the wrong ones.
> 
> Meant these
> 
> But if those aren't any good, I would just go with the silverstone.


Never used those b4,who knows maybe they are good,however i would stick with the silverstone ones....


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> has anyone here used the 3,000 RPM Tyhpoons?


I have the Gentle Typhoons AP29 3000 RPM fans. I exclusively use those on my TJ08E and SG05 Builds. I prefer those because I can control the RPMS and use the power if necessary.


----------



## kpoeticg

The AP29's aren't too noisy for you? I've never seen em in person, but every video i see makes them seem loud as hell.

I love AP-00's/AP-45's though. No idea why they're so hard to come by


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Why no link to the 3000 rpm?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12363/fan-809/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_3000_RPM_D1225C12B7AP-29.html
> 
> They're still more quiet than a Dell R9xx


I can't imagine being in the same room with a stack of 3000 rpm fans









I remember getting a chuckle out of a user who said he wouldn't mind the noise from twin 290x on Ultra setting because he already had a H100


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @Unicr0nhunter and/or whoever knows, is that fan splitter hub the solution people do with the aquaero 6 too? or do i have to use the poweradjust thingy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shall connect 11 pwm fans and use the phanteks hub for the remaining 5 3-pin fans, for the pwm i was hoping to get to use the swiftech hub(s)


You can definitely use splitter PCB's with the Aquaero. If you want RPM feedback to the aquaero though you'll have to do what i mentioned earlier about rerouting ONE of the rpm wires, or get a pcb with rpm feedback like the NZXT.

With the Aquaero 6, you just need to make sure you keep the total fan load under each fan headers limit. There's 4 channels, each can do 2.5A MAX. So just break out a calculator and add up the max current of each fan you plan to put per channel.

I've read a few issues about the Swiftech PWM splitter + Aquaero. No idea if it's been resolved since i use Akasa PWM Splitter Harnesses. I think the Swiftech might have issues with powering from the PSU while PWM'ing from the Aquaero. Again, i've only scrolled past people talking in forums about it


----------



## liquidguy

I have a high RPM Typhoon not sure if it is 3000RPM or not, I have it and use it as an exhaust fan on my cheap amd 955 quad build that I just got done putting back together the other day, it is loud that is for sure, luckily for me I only use that box as a home media center and I have it located in another room where I do not have to listen to it.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The AP29's aren't too noisy for you? I've never seen em in person, but every video i see makes them seem loud as hell.
> 
> I love AP-00's/AP-45's though. No idea why they're so hard to come by


They can be loud, However i'm okay with it, not crazy loud like how some people make them out to be. I usually have my sound system or my headphones on, so it's not a big deal, to top it off i have them controlled via Asus Fan Expert 2 and only 'roar' when needed on my custom fan profiles.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

My rig at the moments....360 top intake and 240 bottom also intake and rear 140 exhaust....Just oredered another 240 rad for the front,if you had the same case what would be your config for all 3 rads....?


----------



## King4x4

Just did a quick rig for a client and posting pics... Typical Switch 810 but I think I did pretty good (Even though the voltage DDC pump decided to die all of a sudden after two hours







):


----------



## skupples

if the 3k RPM tyhpoons are anything like the Scythe Ultra Kaze 120mm x 38mm Fan's than they are LOUD AS HELL. I used 2x of the 38mm's on an h80 a few years back.

I may have to run the 3k's on one of my 480's in the caselabs overhaul.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if the 3k RPM tyhpoons are anything like the Scythe Ultra Kaze 120mm x 38mm Fan's than they are LOUD AS HELL. I used 2x of the 38mm's on an h80 a few years back.
> 
> I may have to run the 3k's on one of my 480's in the *caselabs overhaul*.


you have my full attention.


----------



## skupples

probably still won't use acrylic. Re-using fittings = saving 700$!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> The fact that the XT45 push pull beats the UT60 push removed the UT60 from the equation, since I dont have space for 60mm rad and push pull fans. But I do have space with 45mm rads. The push pull fan setup should also make less noise?
> 
> And I wont be doing 1800RPM just to justify the huge space used by the Monsta!
> 
> Your intelligence amuses me. Keep it up!


I gotta agree with that..... UT60 in push / pull blocks the upper part of my perty M6F and cutting off access to a myriad of doodads and blocking view of the LCD diagnostic panel.

Doubling the fans adds 3 dBA so yes more fans mean more noise....OTOH, running 2 fans slower than 1 fan faster makes less noise. My response to the Monsta was like when was given an '84 Corvette as a "company car".... looked impressive but didn't do much.


----------



## szeged

im sure you can make flex tubing look good anyways







decided on a case yet? im pretty much drooling over the new s8, but i must hold off....well atleast my wallet thinks i must, but i have a history of not listening to him.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Well its done, Just ordered 8 New Scythe G.T. 1850RPM fans for my radiators, LED resistors for the 3mm EK GPU BLock LEds. Just when I thought my Build was complete.


----------



## szeged

these builds will never be complete


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> these builds will never be complete


^Unfortunately the truth


----------



## Ragsters

Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?

Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> My rig at the moments....360 top intake and 240 bottom also intake and rear 140 exhaust....Just oredered another 240 rad for the front,if you had the same case what would be your config for all 3 rads....?


All 3 intake and rear exhaust, vice versa you'd get higher temps I think. But something like front and bottom as intake and top-rear exhaust for a good pressure sounds better. Who am I to say something, I'll leave it to the pros


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> They can be loud, However i'm okay with it, not crazy loud like how some people make them out to be. I usually have my sound system or my headphones on, so it's not a big deal, to top it off i have them controlled via Asus Fan Expert 2 and only 'roar' when needed on my custom fan profiles.


Yep. I only have two AP-29's (3000rpm GTs) to be fair, so it's not like I have an array of them

I have them on a fan controller (traditional 4pin molex power ->3pin fan) and at 50% they are pretty much silent. At ~1850RPM they are quieter than my BGears 140mms at full (1850) speed. 75% isn't bad. 85% is loud. 100% I'm playing games with a headset on anyway, but you can hear them with the door closed _through the door_, sure.

There's only so much room in the case for radiators. Gotta make those radiators work - I don't mind the fans being loud if it gets me where I want to be in terms of overclock


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Yep. I only have two AP-29's (3000rpm GTs) to be fair, so it's not like I have an array of them
> 
> I have them on a fan controller (traditional 4pin molex power ->3pin fan) and at 50% they are pretty much silent. At ~1850RPM they are quieter than my BGears 140mms at full (1850) speed. 75% isn't bad. 85% is loud. 100% I'm playing games with a headset on anyway, but you can hear them with the door closed _through the door_, sure.
> 
> There's only so much room in the case for radiators. Gotta make those radiators work - I don't mind the fans being loud if it gets me where I want to be in terms of overclock


Exactly!

I approve of this and highly recommend the AP29's, usually if you choose these chances are you have them under control in one way or another.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Just did a quick rig for a client and posting pics... Typical Switch 810 but I think I did pretty good (Even though the voltage DDC pump decided to die all of a sudden after two hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):


Just wondering, with that gpu's slot you are using
you'll get one card running at 16x and the other one at 8x if you use those current slots, is that on purpose?


----------



## King4x4

Actually yes. Client wants to go an additional two cards in the future.

Did a couple of tests and found ~1% difference between going 16x and 16x rather then 16x and 8x.


----------



## AMEXPAT

Hi I'm new here I built a totally DIY water cooled system from a window air-con would this be the place to post pictures of it?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> Hi I'm new here I built a totally DIY water cooled system from a window air-con would this be the place to post pictures of it?


Yes - quit stalling already! What a tease


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> probably still won't use acrylic. Re-using fittings = saving 700$!


How? My whole sth10 build with all Primochill revolver fittings was only like $140...,.,, are you NOT wanting to bend the pipes and using 90's instead.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> How? My whole sth10 build with all Primochill revolver fittings was only like $140...,.,, are you NOT wanting to bend the pipes and using 90's instead.


that's a wee bit of an overshot. What I mean to say is. I 300-400$ worth of 1/3x3/4 fittings now, i'm going to keep using them until they rot, or all the finish comes off.


----------



## szeged

scary corrosion monster is attacking my kingpin waterblock! run for your lives!





its also starting to show on my supremacy cpu block, and can see some gunk inside my acrylic tubes.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that's a wee bit of an overshot. What I mean to say is. I 300-400$ worth of 1/3x3/4 fittings now, i'm going to keep using them until they rot, or all the finish comes off.


Unless you want to have nightmares about bending acrylic, stick with regular hose tubing.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

This thread is epic! Missed a week and its like 800+ posts!


----------



## gdubc

How is it none of these companies can seem to get their ship together, seeing all these unending nickel problems is getting to be just plain disgusting. Shame, as I like the looks of the nickel blocks so much better.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> How is it none of these companies can seem to get their ship together, seeing all these unending nickel problems is getting to be just plain disgusting. Shame, as I like the looks of the nickel blocks so much better.


that's why i will only buy heatkiller when it comes to nickel.


----------



## IT Diva

Thought I'd post a little update on the Stretch build's components setup on the Dimestech tech bench;

All 4 of the 290X's are in and running fine, with the triple 35X pump setup giving me 1.0GPM at ~3500 rpm, and maxing at 1.4 GPM at ~4800 rpm.







The dual PSU setup puts a 1000W for the CPU & 2 GPU's with a 750W for the other 2 GPU's:



Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> that's why i will only buy heatkiller when it comes to nickel.


Do you run coolant in your nickel block loops? (some one will come in and say a proper nickel plate shouldn't require anti-corrosive but yeah) the only constant I see with people reporting corroded nickel is A.) they have clear tops, so they can actually see inside. B.) They are not running any inhibitors C.) the pictures linked above look like mostly staining. Nickel stains extremely easily. What I thought was corrosion in my nickel blocks ended up being mostly staining. I still found some corrosion along the seem lines & corners, but it was pretty minimal. I too was not running coolant, just water/biocide.

We have plenty of people around here who run anti-corrosive in EK nickel that have zero issues.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought I'd post a little update on the Stretch build's components setup on the Dimestech tech bench;
> 
> All 4 of the 290X's are in and running fine, with the triple 35X pump setup giving me 1.0GPM at ~3500 rpm, and maxing at 1.4 GPM at ~4800 rpm.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dual PSU setup puts a 1000W for the CPU & 2 GPU's with a 750W for the other 2 GPU's:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


My jaw always drops when I see that build. How do you even plan that out and afford all that? @[email protected]


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Do you run coolant in your nickel block loops? (some one will come in and say a proper nickel plate shouldn't require anti-corrosive but yeah) the only constant I see with people reporting corroded nickel is A.) they have clear tops, so they can actually see inside. B.) They are not running any inhibitors C.) the pictures linked above look like mostly staining. Nickel stains extremely easily. What I thought was corrosion in my nickel blocks ended up being mostly staining. I still found some corrosion along the seem lines & corners, but it was pretty minimal. I too was not running coolant, just water/biocide.
> 
> We have plenty of people around here who run anti-corrosive in EK nickel that have zero issues.


i ran both mayhems pastel yellow and currently distilled with biocide and anti corrisive. from my experience, using nickel blocks with only silver kill coil caused more gunk build up my loop than using coolant or distilled/biocide.


----------



## AMEXPAT

Hi I'm a newbie here, but not a newbie of computers. I 'm an American living here in the Philippines where most water cooling stuff is N/A. What is available is very loud in my research? Soooooooooooo I had to improvise using an old junk ¾ ton window air-con building a case and water block from scratch. Used an Old AMD heatsink as a water block works great. Used an aquarium pump it pumps 5.5 liters of water a minute coming out of the waterblock The build included a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 v 4 board from research it was good for high humidity (as it is very humid and hot here). An AMD FX 8320 @ 3500 I wanted something I could really overclock. Ripjaws X 1866 4gig x4 having trouble getting these to run at 1866 only can get 1600. PSU Seasonic M12II 850W. Sapphire Dual-X R9 270X. The air-con fan blows directle over the mobo and graphic card keeping them very cool too. I added 6ea cheap 120mm slow speed fans to the back rad with just them running the temps get up tp 32c to 35c. So I can turn off the main fan. Super quite can't hear a thing. The big fan keeps everything down to room temps even at 4600 using Prime95 to get all 8 at 100% load!
The air-con fan is set at low speed and moves huge amounts of air and is not loud. Blowing the air into the case and out the back rad keeps the noise down, plus covering the case in vinyl leather helps too.
Overclocking I put it up to 4600 the temps are at 26c have screen shots to prove it LOL. If you're interested in my build I have pictures in my profile of it.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Pics of my first water build:
> 
> D5 Pump, feeding AX240 rad (top) + RX240 rad (front)... Connected by 1/2" ID tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm diggin' that XSPC GPU block! Nice build!


----------



## skupples

Those are some serious levels of macgyver, glorious! +1!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi I'm a newbie here, but not a newbie of computers. I 'm an American living here in the Philippines where most water cooling stuff is N/A. What is available is very loud in my research? Soooooooooooo I had to improvise using an old junk ¾ ton window air-con building a case and water block from scratch. Used an Old AMD heatsink as a water block works great. Used an aquarium pump it pumps 5.5 liters of water a minute coming out of the waterblock The build included a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 v 4 board from research it was good for high humidity (as it is very humid and hot here). An AMD FX 8320 @ 3500 I wanted something I could really overclock. Ripjaws X 1866 4gig x4 having trouble getting these to run at 1866 only can get 1600. PSU Seasonic M12II 850W. Sapphire Dual-X R9 270X. The air-con fan blows directle over the mobo and graphic card keeping them very cool too. I added 6ea cheap 120mm slow speed fans to the back rad with just them running the temps get up tp 32c to 35c. So I can turn off the main fan. Super quite can't hear a thing. The big fan keeps everything down to room temps even at 4600 using Prime95 to get all 8 at 100% load!
> The air-con fan is set at low speed and moves huge amounts of air and is not loud. Blowing the air into the case and out the back rad keeps the noise down, plus covering the case in vinyl leather helps too.
> Overclocking I put it up to 4600 the temps are at 26c have screen shots to prove it LOL. If you're interested in my build I have pictures in my profile of it.


Welcome to OCN!

Your DIY solution looks pretty good and those temps are crazy low. I love the fact that most of your build is custom-made. Thanks for sharing!

For anyone wanting to see the build photos: http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1126782/default/


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Those are some serious levels of macgyver, glorious! +1!


+1 on that








I would have kept the compressor intact to use as a chiller or modded SS unit


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> How? My whole sth10 build with all Primochill revolver fittings was only like $140...,.,, are you NOT wanting to bend the pipes and using 90's instead.


Yeah, acrylic seems a heck of a lot cheaper if you aren't messing with rotaries and angled adapters.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Do you guys feel the added cost and noise of push pull is worth the performance increase? I feel like if I'm buying 3 more fans I might as well stick them in another rad if I have space. If I didn't have space in don't think I could justify the price and noise increase.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Do you guys feel the added cost and noise of push pull is worth the performance increase? I feel like if I'm buying 3 more fans I might as well stick them in another rad if I have space. If I didn't have space in don't think I could justify the price and noise increase.


I would say no, especially for noise.


----------



## Anoxy

I've never actually run only push or pull...is it really that much quieter?

I feel like 2x360 isn't enough rad space to only run push or pull.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Yeah that's why I'm asking. I've never run anything but push. Im going to try push pull on my mora 420 soon but with different fans so I won't have a direct comparison even then.


----------



## fortinbras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought I'd post a little update on the Stretch build's components setup on the Dimestech tech bench;
> 
> All 4 of the 290X's are in and running fine, with the triple 35X pump setup giving me 1.0GPM at ~3500 rpm, and maxing at 1.4 GPM at ~4800 rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dual PSU setup puts a 1000W for the CPU & 2 GPU's with a 750W for the other 2 GPU's:
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Absolutely gorgeous... kudos


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*


The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.


----------



## AMEXPAT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> +1 on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have kept the compressor intact to use as a chiller or modded SS unit


First off the unit didn't come with compressor intact LOL, Aslo it would have defeated the purpose what would you do with the extra heat from the compressor also the case would have been huge lots bigger than it already is plus lots more head aches. I just had 2 goals to make something quite and does a good job in cooling with the air-con turned off. Here the elec. bill is 3 times more than back in the states per kwh that was a huge factor. My tests were done in my living room in the evening and I don't have an air-con in there and it was rather hot in the room when I was overclocking and still got 26c core temps I first started my overclocking in mid after noon much hotter only at 3600 the temps where at 32.2c as time passed into night when I got down to 26c soooooooooooooo room temp has a big factor in my rig. Now here in the Bedroom with the air-con running full blast. I can get the cores down to 20c t0 22c. So all I have to do is turn the air-con on if I want things even cooler LOL very simple. I see guys here spend over 150 bucks in just fittings. My whole water system case, pump, waterblock, tank, wiring, the 6 cheap 120mm fans, vynl covering, the junk air-con, fittings and cans of spray paint was under 150 bucks totally


----------



## Kokin

Sadly many people here wouldn't have the technical skill to do what you did (me being one of them







).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.
Click to expand...

The 35X is a PWM pump and should be at 12v all the time,it doesnt respond well to voltage control. PWM controls the speed. You will get a lag between the BIOS and any PWM functions,the pump takes a second to spin up and the sense wire returns a fail code.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The 35X is a PWM pump and should be at 12v all the time,it doesnt respond well to voltage control. PWM controls the speed. You will get a lag between the BIOS and any PWM functions,the pump takes a second to spin up and the sense wire returns a fail code.
Click to expand...

All those pumps (made in Hungary) are almost the same change only the case, 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at 6 V, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at 13.8V.
If you have more there 3 use them in silent operation mode with a good flow result.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The 35X is a PWM pump and should be at 12v all the time,it doesnt respond well to voltage control. PWM controls the speed. You will get a lag between the BIOS and any PWM functions,the pump takes a second to spin up and the sense wire returns a fail code.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All those pumps (made in Hungary) are almost the same change only the case, 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at 6 V, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at 13.8V.
> If you have more there 3 use them in silent operation mode with a good flow result.
Click to expand...










Absolutely incorrect,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC but has different control circuitry,you should not voltage control 35X PWM pumps.
You do know how PWM works right?

From Swiftech themselves.
http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2303


----------



## AMEXPAT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Sadly many people here wouldn't have the technical skill to do what you did (me being one of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Thank you for the complement, but I'm really a nobody I just had no other options. Not rich or that terribly smart I think if I can do it I'm sure others can too if they don't have the bucks. It just took lots of planning and thinking. I just thought of a very simple way to cool things down by just using the back rad from a air-con and mounting it outside on the case, mounting 6 fans. The back rad on mine is 12"x18" it would be easy to mount on a case side. I'm a 65 year old guy that grew up in a rather poor family so I had to start learning to improvise when I was very young and a lot of people my age had to do the same thing. Sadly I see so many young people get so dependent on products they never learn how to improvise. I searched all over the internet to see if anyone had anything close to mine. I did see where a kid made a home made water cooled system it was in a tower form looked more like art work, lots prettier than mine. Sadly I guess I'm the only one that made one like this! I see now the technique of improvising is being lost.


----------



## stickg1

I want to hang out with Darlene for a day. So many cool toys!!



I'm taking a personal day in hopes that my block for the new 780 arrives today. I have to cover for a friend of mine at what usually is my summer season part time job tonight.

Also notice I sleeved my GPU cables. Don't mind the mess at the bottom, I didn't route them or anything, just testing to see if they work and if it looks okay on the GPU end. I might change one of the blacks to gray for a little more contrast.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The 35X is a PWM pump and should be at 12v all the time,it doesnt respond well to voltage control. PWM controls the speed. You will get a lag between the BIOS and any PWM functions,the pump takes a second to spin up and the sense wire returns a fail code.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All those pumps (made in Hungary) are almost the same change only the case, 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at 6 V, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at 13.8V.
> If you have more there 3 use them in silent operation mode with a good flow result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely incorrect,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC but has different control circuitry,you should not voltage control 35X PWM pumps.
> You do know how PWM works right?
> 
> From Swiftech themselves.
> http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2303
Click to expand...

OK then you shoul go and teach Swiftech or ask them to update there website (also to all there vendors) if my post is absolutely incorrect "1300 rpm for completely silent operation, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance"
Please don't argue with me let them know, will be more helpful for who want to use it. Thank You mr. EXPERT


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The 35X is a PWM pump and should be at 12v all the time,it doesnt respond well to voltage control. PWM controls the speed. You will get a lag between the BIOS and any PWM functions,the pump takes a second to spin up and the sense wire returns a fail code.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All those pumps (made in Hungary) are almost the same change only the case, 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at 6 V, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at 13.8V.
> If you have more there 3 use them in silent operation mode with a good flow result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely incorrect,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC but has different control circuitry,you should not voltage control 35X PWM pumps.
> You do know how PWM works right?
> 
> From Swiftech themselves.
> http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2303
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OK then you shoul go and teach Swiftech or ask them to update there website (also to all there vendors) if my post is absolutely incorrect "1300 rpm for completely silent operation, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance"
> Please don't argue with me let them know, will be more helpful for who want to use it. Thank You
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EXPERT!
Click to expand...

Your actual post was
Quote:


> 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at *6 V,* to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at *13.8V*.


Your post is incorrect for reasons already given.

You need the teaching,not swiftech.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The 35X is a PWM pump and should be at 12v all the time,it doesnt respond well to voltage control. PWM controls the speed. You will get a lag between the BIOS and any PWM functions,the pump takes a second to spin up and the sense wire returns a fail code.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All those pumps (made in Hungary) are almost the same change only the case, 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at 6 V, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at 13.8V.
> If you have more there 3 use them in silent operation mode with a good flow result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely incorrect,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC but has different control circuitry,you should not voltage control 35X PWM pumps.
> You do know how PWM works right?
> 
> From Swiftech themselves.
> http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2303
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OK then you shoul go and teach Swiftech or ask them to update there website (also to all there vendors) if my post is absolutely incorrect "1300 rpm for completely silent operation, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance"
> Please don't argue with me let them know, will be more helpful for who want to use it. Thank You mr EXPERT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your actual post was
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at *6 V,* to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at *13.8V*.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your post is incorrect for reasons already given.
> 
> You need the teaching,not swiftech.
Click to expand...

One again for me all ddc pumps are the same or change almost nothing. My information regarding voltage should apply also to swiftech.
Silent mode is less voltage and will be if not 6V around 7V. Personal my DDC 3.25 (most powerfull DDC) pumps don't perform at 2800rpm on start up.


----------



## MistaBernie

Minor thread cleaning performed. Please mind the TOS and keep things on topic.


----------



## stickg1

Really close to Magoo being summoned to squash this beef!


----------



## pc-illiterate

slinky, you need to read.

12 Volts DC convenience: plugs into the computer power supply
Variable speed control via PWM thru the motherboard, from 1300 rpm for completely silent operation, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance;

you do understand what this means right?

it gets its power from the 4 pin molex. its speed is controlled by pwm. you do NOT control its speed with voltage. if you do, it will fail in a short amount of time as bramsli1 pointed out in the swiftech forums.

dont argue about something you know nothing about. dont especially argue with someone who knows what they are telling you. it makes you look like a thick skulled moron.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The 35X is a PWM pump and should be at 12v all the time,it doesnt respond well to voltage control. PWM controls the speed. You will get a lag between the BIOS and any PWM functions,the pump takes a second to spin up and the sense wire returns a fail code.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All those pumps (made in Hungary) are almost the same change only the case, 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at 6 V, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at 13.8V.
> If you have more there 3 use them in silent operation mode with a good flow result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely incorrect,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC but has different control circuitry,you should not voltage control 35X PWM pumps.
> You do know how PWM works right?
> 
> From Swiftech themselves.
> http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2303
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OK then you shoul go and teach Swiftech or ask them to update there website (also to all there vendors) if my post is absolutely incorrect "1300 rpm for completely silent operation, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance"
> Please don't argue with me let them know, will be more helpful for who want to use it. Thank You mr EXPERT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your actual post was
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at *6 V,* to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at *13.8V*.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your post is incorrect for reasons already given.
> 
> You need the teaching,not swiftech.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One again for me all ddc pumps are the same or change almost nothing. My information regarding voltage should apply also to swiftech.
> Silent mode is less voltage and will be if not 6V around 7V. Personal my DDC 3.25 (most powerfull DDC) pumps don't perform at 2800rpm on start up.
Click to expand...

You obviously have no idea of what you are talking about. PWM pumps are not voltage controlled,they work on a on/off duty cycle,the pump stays on 12v.

Your information is incorrect,you need to research more.

Now,im done with your idiocy. Go away.


----------



## Frostedlight

Thanks to all the inspiration in the thread and online I was finally able to put together my first watercooled system when I upgraded my GPU









I built it up from an XSPC 750 EX240 kit and added corsair SP120 Quiet fans, Noctua F12's along with an Alphacool Monsta radiator.

It seems to work pretty well except the temps are a bit high







...not sure why.

The specs are an R9 290 and an i5 2500k. For some reason the R9 290 gets up to around 60 degrees with a +100mv and the i5 2500k gets to around 60 degrees @ 1.288V (only got it up to 4.3gHz though). I might look into reseating the blocks later, although its pretty apparent that airflow could be better.

P.S. I know the back is really messy


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frostedlight*
> 
> Thanks to all the inspiration in the thread and online I was finally able to put together my first watercooled system when I upgraded my GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built it up from an XSPC 750 EX240 kit and added corsair SP120 Quiet fans, Noctua F12's along with an Alphacool Monsta radiator.
> 
> It seems to work pretty well except the temps are a bit high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...not sure why.
> 
> The specs are an R9 290 and an i5 2500k. For some reason the R9 290 gets up to around 60 degrees with a +100mv and the i5 2500k gets to around 60 degrees @ 1.288V (only got it up to 4.3gHz though). I might look into reseating the blocks later, although its pretty apparent that airflow could be better.
> 
> P.S. I know the back is really messy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

If I remember right, most 290/290X's OC'd are getting to about the low 50C's under water. You could probably do a bit better than what you are getting by reseating the block. It doesn't sound like its properly fitted on. Although to be fair, your pump isn't the greatest in the world, especially for that amount of components.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frostedlight*
> 
> Thanks to all the inspiration in the thread and online I was finally able to put together my first watercooled system when I upgraded my GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built it up from an XSPC 750 EX240 kit and added corsair SP120 Quiet fans, Noctua F12's along with an Alphacool Monsta radiator.
> 
> It seems to work pretty well except the temps are a bit high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...not sure why.
> 
> The specs are an R9 290 and an i5 2500k. For some reason the R9 290 gets up to around 60 degrees with a +100mv and the i5 2500k gets to around 60 degrees @ 1.288V (only got it up to 4.3gHz though). I might look into reseating the blocks later, although its pretty apparent that airflow could be better.
> 
> P.S. I know the back is really messy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great! That is a thiiiiiiick rad in the front


----------



## PinzaC55

Just waiting for one part before she joins her buddy in my rig.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.


An MCP35X should start up with the pwm even at 0%. If not there is something wrong with the pump.


----------



## Frostedlight

Pinza that looks really neat and all cleaned up...beastly - as is quad sli









Thanks for the advice and kind comments Kinaesthetic and Goudreau







Definitely going to be something I try in the future seeing as watercooling is likely to become a slippery slope when I'm already thinking about things like a D5







. If I were to do it again I think i'd pick a case with better airflow and let everything breathe better.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> An MCP35X should start up with the pwm even at 0%. If not there is something wrong with the pump.


Not really, all 35x's I have heard off have a range of operation from ~15-60% PWM signal so below the min limit they likely wouldn't start at all.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not really, all 35x's I have heard off have a range of operation from ~15-60% PWM signal so below the min limit they likely wouldn't start at all.


It is impossible for an MCP35X to shut off via PWM. 0% will still run the pump @ 1200-1300 rpm.


----------



## stickg1

So I went to the post office to try to intercept my block and backplate early. They didn't have it yet, the truck is running late from mid-state if it even comes at all because of bad weather.









But I went to Dunkin Donuts to ease the pain!









While stuffing my face with delicious treats I had an idea and I'm about to tear my entire rig apart!! Stay tuned for Stick-box Version 9.3....


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not really, all 35x's I have heard off have a range of operation from ~15-60% PWM signal so below the min limit they likely wouldn't start at all.
> 
> 
> 
> *It is impossible for an MCP35X to shut off via PWM.* 0% will still run the pump @ 1200-1300 rpm.
Click to expand...

Can verify, in my experience with my MCP35X, this is correct.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is impossible for an MCP35X to shut off via PWM. 0% will still run the pump @ 1200-1300 rpm.


You are right, I just tried it out at start up and it did operate at the min rpm


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frostedlight*
> 
> Pinza that looks really neat and all cleaned up...beastly - as is quad sli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice and kind comments Kinaesthetic and Goudreau
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely going to be something I try in the future seeing as watercooling is likely to become a slippery slope when I'm already thinking about things like a D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If I were to do it again I think i'd pick a case with better airflow and let everything breathe better.


If you do look at cases check out the 750 D by corsair. It's pretty reasonably priced and goes on sale often. I'm loving it so far 0 complaints. If you get a D5 too get the pwm one so you can set that custom pump curve with your temps. It's super legit









I think you did some great things with that case it's really a nice looking build.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frostedlight*
> 
> Thanks to all the inspiration in the thread and online I was finally able to put together my first watercooled system when I upgraded my GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built it up from an XSPC 750 EX240 kit and added corsair SP120 Quiet fans, Noctua F12's along with an Alphacool Monsta radiator.
> 
> It seems to work pretty well except the temps are a bit high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...not sure why.
> 
> The specs are an R9 290 and an i5 2500k. For some reason the R9 290 gets up to around 60 degrees with a +100mv and the i5 2500k gets to around 60 degrees @ 1.288V (only got it up to 4.3gHz though). I might look into reseating the blocks later, although its pretty apparent that airflow could be better.
> 
> P.S. I know the back is really messy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work!







My 290's will run at low 60s with +100mV (1.34 - 1.36V) in 30+ Celsius ambient. What is your VRM1 temps?


----------



## Frostedlight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 290's will run at low 60s with +100mV (1.34 - 1.36V) in 30+ Celsius ambient. What is your VRM1 temps?


Hmm well my ambient temperatures are much milder and probably in the mid 20's but I believe my VRAM temps get a little bit high that the core temps. Remembering correctly, generally sit a few deg above. Although I only recently started trying the 100mv OC so I'll have to check again.

I've been using gelid gc-extreme but discovered that it is waaaay harder to spread than mx-4. When I get some time I'll probably remount the blocks to check the contact and put some phobya pads on.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frostedlight*
> 
> Pinza that looks really neat and all cleaned up...beastly - as is quad sli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice and kind comments Kinaesthetic and Goudreau
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely going to be something I try in the future seeing as watercooling is likely to become a slippery slope when I'm already thinking about things like a D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If I were to do it again I think i'd pick a case with better airflow and let everything breathe better.


Thanks! Last time I had SLI was a pair of Gigabyte 6800's in a Packard Bell PC I bought in 2006 - it was "cutting edge" then








I have been really lucky buying on Ebay , got the first 690 in November 2012 when someone advertised three of new OEM for £250 less than list price - I knew if I hesitated it would be gone so I raided my piggy bank. Then an EK FC690 block was for auction new and unused with backplate (the guy chickened out of installing it - got £123 worth of gear for £10.50 and sold the backplate for £10! Then this one turned up already fitted with the block.
The secret is to do a "Saved Search" on your phone and set it to alert you of new items listed. A lot of it will be no use but you get the occasional nugget.


----------



## Ragsters

Thanks for everyones responce on my MCP35x pump issues. The thing is that the pmp does start and does operate at start up its just those two times when the bios didn't recognize the pump at cold boot. Everytime I start my computer the pump revs up to full speed then goes down to wherever I have it set to. The times where I got a CPU FAN ERROR the pump never reved up and went straight into a low rpm state. If I go to F1 (Run Setup) I check the RPM and the pump is working fine. Also, the two times the pump didn't rev right away I had the RPM set to lower than usual (25% min). I typically run it from 30%-35%.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frostedlight*
> 
> I've been using gelid gc-extreme but discovered that it is waaaay harder to spread than mx-4


Have you tried heating it first?

That's what I do with GC-Extreme, but I'm thinking of using a hair dryer to heat the block and chip first also


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So I went to the post office to try to intercept my block and backplate early. They didn't have it yet, the truck is running late from mid-state if it even comes at all because of bad weather.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I went to Dunkin Donuts to ease the pain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While stuffing my face with delicious treats I had an idea and I'm about to tear my entire rig apart!! Stay tuned for Stick-box Version 9.3....


Atta boy haha


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


That is such a gorgeous bridge. I would have went the way of the way of the CSQ block and bridge were it not for those blasted crop circles... Has anyone seen a polished non CSQ acrylic bridge before?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks for everyones responce on my MCP35x pump issues. The thing is that the pmp does start and does operate at start up its just those two times when the bios didn't recognize the pump at cold boot. Everytime I start my computer the pump revs up to full speed then goes down to wherever I have it set to. The times where I got a CPU FAN ERROR the pump never reved up and went straight into a low rpm state. If I go to F1 (Run Setup) I check the RPM and the pump is working fine. Also, the two times the pump didn't rev right away I had the RPM set to lower than usual (25% min). I typically run it from 30%-35%.


The issue is likely with your motherboard's ability to detect the pump at startup. I've seen this before with other PWM devices. Asus boards seem to be the main ones that have issues, or it could simply be that Asus has the largest market share so their issues tend to stand out more. There is likely though that there's nothing wrong with either the pump or the board, just that the board sometimes takes longer to detect it at times.

You may need to disable the BIOS option that shuts down your system when there's no CPU fan detected. You should still be able to keep the warning though to let you know if there's an issue. Let me know if this issue starts to become more frequent or if you get errors during the use of your system. This could indicate that the pump is failing and we'll therefore need to replace it for you.

On a side note. B Negative has been completely right about these being PWM devices and this makes them different from the DDC pumps that Laing makes for other OEMs. These shouldn't be used with voltage control because this will cause them to either fail in a short period of time or will just run them at full speed, with no ability to control them. Some motherboards attempt to use voltage regulation to simulate PWM control. This is OK for fans, but for motors that are used in pumps of this kind it can lead to some very serious issues and ultimately damage their circuitry. I hope this clarifies things.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That is such a gorgeous bridge. I would have went the way of the way of the CSQ block and bridge were it not for those blasted crop circles... Has anyone seen a polished non CSQ acrylic bridge before?


I think you can polish it yourself with sandpaper and a polisher... @lowfat would know more about that for sure.


----------



## lowfat

I dont think EK makes a non-CSQ acrylic bridge yet. You could just sand off the circles though. Start w/ 400 to 600 grit, then work up to 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Then use a quality plastics polish.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The issue is likely with your motherboard's ability to detect the pump at startup. I've seen this before with other PWM devices. Asus boards seem to be the main ones that have issues, or it could simply be that Asus has the largest market share so their issues tend to stand out more. There is likely though that there's nothing wrong with either the pump or the board, just that the board sometimes takes longer to detect it at times.
> 
> You may need to disable the BIOS option that shuts down your system when there's no CPU fan detected. You should still be able to keep the warning though to let you know if there's an issue. Let me know if this issue starts to become more frequent or if you get errors during the use of your system. This could indicate that the pump is failing and we'll therefore need to replace it for you.
> 
> On a side note. B Negative has been completely right about these being PWM devices and this makes them different from the DDC pumps that Laing makes for other OEMs. These shouldn't be used with voltage control because this will cause them to either fail in a short period of time or will just run them at full speed, with no ability to control them. Some motherboards attempt to use voltage regulation to simulate PWM control. This is OK for fans, but for motors that are used in pumps of this kind it can lead to some very serious issues and ultimately damage their circuitry. I hope this clarifies things.


Thanks for responding Bram! I think you are right about the board just not always detecting it at start up. Anyway, I guess if this started happening more frquently I would start to worry. For now I am relieved to hear your analysis.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks for responding Bram! I think you are right about the board just not always detecting it at start up. Anyway, I guess if this started happening more frquently I would start to worry. For now I am relieved to hear your analysis.


You could just set it to ignore those types of errors during post.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I dont think EK makes a non-CSQ acrylic bridge yet. You could just sand off the circles though. Start w/ 400 to 600 grit, then work up to 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Then use a quality plastics polish.


Like lapping a CPU


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> An MCP35X should start up with the pwm even at 0%. If not there is something wrong with the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> Not really, all 35x's I have heard off have a range of operation from ~15-60% PWM signal so below the min limit they likely wouldn't start at all.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not really, all 35x's I have heard off have a range of operation from ~15-60% PWM signal so below the min limit they likely wouldn't start at all.
> 
> 
> 
> *It is impossible for an MCP35X to shut off via PWM. 0% will still run the pump @ 1200-1300 rpm*.
Click to expand...

This is correct.

The 35X runs at a minimum rpm, even as the PWM duty cycle drops below the minimum speed threshold, even down to zero.

The PWM D5, on the other hand, is a different animal . . .

Run the duty cycle to zero, which is effectively connecting the PWM signal line to ground, and it will stop. (though it runs at min speed of ~800rpm until 0% duty cycle is reached

Once stopped, for small amounts above zero duty cycle, until it reaches a threshold at about 7%, it will stay stopped.

Once it hits that threshold, it will run at min speed again and control normally from about 10% to 80% ish.

While I was double checking my data on this, I ran into a strange little issue with one of my test PWM D5's which I'll post about subsequently, as BramSLI will want to see it.

It may be a clue as to why there are some issues reported with the PWM D5 not working with the Aquaero 6 PWM control

Darlene


----------



## VSG

That's it- the PWM D5 was what I was thinking of! Thanks for clarifying things as usual, Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I dont think EK makes a non-CSQ acrylic bridge yet. You could just sand off the circles though. Start w/ 400 to 600 grit, then work up to 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Then use a quality plastics polish.


You'd be sanding till hell freezes over for sure, if you try it by hand.

The circles are deeply cut.

You'd really need a bench type belt sander as a minimum, to get rid of the circles, and then start sanding and then wet sanding by hand until it's ready to polish.

In truth, if I were going to eliminate the circles, I'd put it on a mill and do it that way.

Excessive mechanical sanding gets the material pretty hot, and I'd want to avoid that.

Actually, on a polished bridge, the circles keep it from looking too plain.

Darlene

If I was ever to mill the circles off, I'd then put about a 1/4", (6mm) bevel around the top, except for where the ports are, so it didn't look so plain.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'd be sanding till hell freezes over for sure, if you try it by hand.
> 
> The circles are deeply cut.
> 
> You'd really need a bench type belt sander as a minimum, to get rid of the circles, and then start sanding and then wet sanding by hand until it's ready to polish.
> 
> In truth, if I were going to eliminate the circles, I'd put it on a mill and do it that way.
> 
> Excessive mechanical sanding gets the material pretty hot, and I'd want to avoid that.
> 
> Actually, on a polished bridge, the circles keep it from looking too plain.
> 
> Darlene


I served a apprenticeship in a factory as a Fitter in my long distant youth, repairing machines and making machine parts. If I wanted to remove the circles I would probably mill them off then sand down, but I have to say that if I had the machines available I would simply machine a new bridge out of Perspex to my own specs or better still nickel then plate it with chrome.


----------



## stickg1

I decided to move my 60mm thick Coolgate Ultra up front and put it in push/pull. To do that I had to drill a couple of new holes for my HDD rack.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I decided to move my 60mm thick Coolgate Ultra up front and put it in push/pull. To do that I had to drill a couple of new holes for my HDD rack.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


veeerrry nice


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> scary corrosion monster is attacking my kingpin waterblock! run for your lives!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its also starting to show on my supremacy cpu block, and can see some gunk inside my acrylic tubes.


how long has the loop been runnig?
what coolant?
Old reused radiator?
or new one? did you flush it or in a rush forget?

free gold giveaway?


----------



## VSG

Anyone have experience with the Alphacool 780 backplate? A YouTube reviewer said the backplate caused the card to disrupt booting and then Alphacool told him the backplate was likely not compatible with the 780. I am just wondering if this was a one-off or did Alphacool really not catch this till now!


----------



## Angrychair

what ever happened to these. I'd like to see them in 120 and 140!


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> what ever happened to these. I'd like to see them in 120 and 140!


I have one of those.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> how long has the loop been runnig?
> what coolant?
> Old reused radiator?
> or new one? did you flush it or in a rush forget?
> 
> *free gold giveaway?*


lmao hi nook nook









This loop has been up for probably a month and a half now.

Just distilled water and a drip of biocide from mayhems.

All of the radiators in the loop are brand new Alphacool 480 Monstas, i flushed them each for one hour with warm/hot water before using them.

Going to break down the loop today and clean everything up and see if its just staining thats making it look bad before i try to rma them.


----------



## IT Diva

@BramSLI

Here's a description of the anomaly I mentioned earlier:

This is the PWM display on the scope for 1 of the D5's in the test setup.

1 volt per division for a ~5V high with about a 0.2V low, and right about 45 - 50% duty cycle.

The second channel display is set as a 0V reference line.

Everything works as it's supposed to, the wave form stays as a nice square wave of consistent amplitude from anything above 0% right up to just under 100%.



Now here's the same exact settings with the other D5 in the test setup:

Notice that it appears like the signal is being severely loaded with no sharp turn off like there's a cap to ground.



The bizarre fact, is that as the duty cycle is increased, the average voltage goes up a volt or 2 at 100% and the pump speed increases as well.

It actually sort of controls, but way out of normal range, as it hits its ~800rpm minimum speed at about 40% duty cycle, instead of ~10%.

Here's the scope shot of how the average voltage rises a volt+ at a higher about 80%:



It would be great if you could ask your engineers what might be the issue here.

I just ordered 2 more in hopes that they will work properly for my test setup.

If you guys wanna send me one, I'd gladly accept it, if you want this funky one back, will you accept a bag of parts?









Darlene


----------



## Angrychair

well that sucks, copper does tarnish really easily, especially when its so polished and nicely finished, but something had to be in there to make that happen so fast. Blah, idk, kinda lost. I had a copper cpu block with clear top and I ran the loop for 3 years without flushing it and it never discolored.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> well that sucks, copper does tarnish really easily, especially when its so polished and nicely finished, but something had to be in there to make that happen so fast. Blah, idk, kinda lost. I had a copper cpu block with clear top and I ran the loop for 3 years without flushing it and it never discolored.


Lol, it's a nickel plated block sir!!


----------



## szeged

my guess is there was some kind of residue somewhere that wanted to wage war against the nickle, and it seems the nickle has lost









itll be popped open and cleaned soon anyways, ill post close ups of the block after cleaning.


----------



## sinnedone

If that's the case then something ate through the nickel down to the copper, no?


----------



## szeged

it might just be staining, ill let you know soon


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> @BramSLI
> 
> Here's a description of the anomaly I mentioned earlier:
> 
> This is the PWM display on the scope for 1 of the D5's in the test setup.
> 
> 1 volt per division for a ~5V high with about a 0.2V low, and right about 45 - 50% duty cycle.
> 
> The second channel display is set as a 0V reference line.
> 
> Everything works as it's supposed to, the wave form stays as a nice square wave of consistent amplitude from anything above 0% right up to just under 100%.
> 
> Now here's the same exact settings with the other D5 in the test setup:
> 
> Notice that it appears like the signal is being severely loaded with no sharp turn off like there's a cap to ground.
> 
> The bizarre fact, is that as the duty cycle is increased, the average voltage goes up a volt or 2 at 100% and the pump speed increases as well.
> 
> It actually sort of controls, but way out of normal range, as it hits its ~800rpm minimum speed at about 40% duty cycle, instead of ~10%.
> 
> Here's the scope shot of how the average voltage rises a volt+ at a higher about 80%:
> 
> 
> 
> It would be great if you could ask your engineers what might be the issue here.
> 
> I just ordered 2 more in hopes that they will work properly for my test setup.
> 
> If you guys wanna send me one, I'd gladly accept it, if you want this funky one back, will you accept a bag of parts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I'll pass this on to our engineers to see what they think the issue might be. We don't actually carry or sell the PWM version of this pump. These get sent directly to Frozen as per our arrangement with them. They therefore handle all of the warranty support and RMAs for them. I'll let you know what our engineers find.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Beware the scammer.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1466843/rant-lucid-dream-computers-is-a-scam/0_20

Derick got done,I got done....seems many OCN'rs got scammed by this guy


----------



## VSG

Wow! Thanks for the heads up, I would not have suspected them after seeing extablished people here being reps. Smart move though!


----------



## Angrychair

wow that was nickle? BWUAHAHA


----------



## szeged

keyword

was

lol


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Beware the scammer.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1466843/rant-lucid-dream-computers-is-a-scam/0_20
> 
> Derick got done,I got done....seems many OCN'rs got scammed by this guy


Lucid dream - Wikipedia
A lucid dream is any dream in which one is aware that one is dreaming. The phenomenon had also been referred to by Greek philosopher Aristotle who had observed: "often when one is asleep, there is something in consciousness which declares that what then presents itself is but a dream"


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Beware the scammer.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1466843/rant-lucid-dream-computers-is-a-scam/0_20
> 
> Derick got done,I got done....seems many OCN'rs got scammed by this guy


oh lawd... i remember seeing lucid dream computers banners everywhere and wondered what had happen. feel really bad... hopefully ocn admins can do something about this.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> @BramSLI
> 
> Here's a description of the anomaly I mentioned earlier:
> 
> This is the PWM display on the scope for 1 of the D5's in the test setup.
> 
> 1 volt per division for a ~5V high with about a 0.2V low, and right about 45 - 50% duty cycle.
> 
> The second channel display is set as a 0V reference line.
> 
> Everything works as it's supposed to, the wave form stays as a nice square wave of consistent amplitude from anything above 0% right up to just under 100%.
> 
> Now here's the same exact settings with the other D5 in the test setup:
> 
> Notice that it appears like the signal is being severely loaded with no sharp turn off like there's a cap to ground.
> 
> The bizarre fact, is that as the duty cycle is increased, the average voltage goes up a volt or 2 at 100% and the pump speed increases as well.
> 
> It actually sort of controls, but way out of normal range, as it hits its ~800rpm minimum speed at about 40% duty cycle, instead of ~10%.
> 
> Here's the scope shot of how the average voltage rises a volt+ at a higher about 80%:
> 
> 
> 
> It would be great if you could ask your engineers what might be the issue here.
> 
> I just ordered 2 more in hopes that they will work properly for my test setup.
> 
> If you guys wanna send me one, I'd gladly accept it, if you want this funky one back, will you accept a bag of parts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I'll pass this on to our engineers to see what they think the issue might be. We don't actually carry or sell the PWM version of this pump. These get sent directly to Frozen as per our arrangement with them. They therefore handle all of the warranty support and RMAs for them. I'll let you know what our engineers find.
Click to expand...

Problem Solved:

Hint . . . . It's a QC issue.

Figuring there was nothing to loose by taking the pump apart, I did so.

The green PWM wire solders onto the PCB right next to a pair of small signal diodes, D2 & D3.

It does not connect to them electrically via the PCB.

Too much wire stripped back and a clumsy solder station tech can easily make the PWM wire contact the D2 diode which is what I found to be the case.

I trimmed the wire end back a bit, re-soldered it onto the PCB, and the pump is working as it is supposed to.

I have to believe that there are more people than just me that got a pump with this QC issue.

Darlene


----------



## batmanwcm

While I'm waiting for szeged's reply on what is going on with his nickel blocks, I need a general consensus of how you guys feel about nickel plated water blocks. I'm ready to pull the trigger on the rest of my water cooling gear.

I'm repurposing an old MCP355 but I'm getting all new stuff as far as radiators and a new reservoir. I'm just stuck on which water block to get. I've narrowed it down to EK Supremacy's Clean CSQ Nickel plated version but I'm kind of worried about the Nickel plating/corrosion issue. If there is a high chance of corrosion, I guess I'll just get the regular copper version. I'm going to run Mayhem's Pastel Ice as a coolant by the way.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.
> 
> 
> 
> An MCP35X should start up with the pwm even at 0%. If not there is something wrong with the pump.
Click to expand...

I agree


----------



## Frostedlight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Have you tried heating it first?
> 
> That's what I do with GC-Extreme, but I'm thinking of using a hair dryer to heat the block and chip first also


Yeah I figured out the need to heat it and it became easier to use with the applicator, but I guess I'll have to check to see how the contact was.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone help me? Bram maybe? Today is the second time where I tun on my computer and the pump is not recognized right away. I get a CPU fan error (no detection). I have to run set up by pressing F1. When I enter the bios everything is fine and the pump is running fine but for that split second when the machine in powering on the pump does not turn on and the bios does not recognize it. Any clue why?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention that the pump is a *Swiftech MCP35X.*
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech MCP35X is a DDC pump and if you don't give a good voltage will don't start. If you setup on bios silent mode for that fan that pump will never start.
> Edit: You will always have a split second when the pc start up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The 35X is a PWM pump and should be at 12v all the time,it doesnt respond well to voltage control. PWM controls the speed. You will get a lag between the BIOS and any PWM functions,the pump takes a second to spin up and the sense wire returns a fail code.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All those pumps (made in Hungary) are almost the same change only the case, 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at 6 V, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at 13.8V.
> If you have more there 3 use them in silent operation mode with a good flow result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely incorrect,the 35X is based on the 18w DDC but has different control circuitry,you should not voltage control 35X PWM pumps.
> You do know how PWM works right?
> 
> From Swiftech themselves.
> http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2303
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OK then you shoul go and teach Swiftech or ask them to update there website (also to all there vendors) if my post is absolutely incorrect "1300 rpm for completely silent operation, to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance"
> Please don't argue with me let them know, will be more helpful for who want to use it. Thank You mr EXPERT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your actual post was
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 1300 rpm for completely silent operation at *6 V,* to 4500 rpm for ultra high flow performance at *13.8V*.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your post is incorrect for reasons already given.
> 
> You need the teaching,not swiftech.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One again for me all ddc pumps are the same or change almost nothing. My information regarding voltage should apply also to swiftech.
> Silent mode is less voltage and will be if not 6V around 7V. Personal my DDC 3.25 (most powerfull DDC) pumps don't perform at 2800rpm on start up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You obviously have no idea of what you are talking about. PWM pumps are not voltage controlled,they work on a on/off duty cycle,the pump stays on 12v.
> 
> Your information is incorrect,you need to research more.
> 
> Now,im done with your idiocy. Go away.
Click to expand...

The fan should stay at 12v where you connect the pump the pump will be at 9V (not 6V) on silent mode pwm 0
The Pump voltage range is 9V to 13.4 V (I say before 6V to 13.8 bcz I own a beater one).


----------



## VSG

Dude we have been trying to explain to you that the pump is constantly at 12 V, I have confirmed this with a DMM just 2 days ago. The mcp35x is controlled via PWM, not voltage.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Dude we have been trying to explain to you that the pump is constantly at 12 V, I have confirmed this with a DMM just 2 days ago. The mcp35x is controlled via PWM, not voltage.


I really don't think you can explain it any better. I think I've also clarified this and I can't go into any further detail than I already have.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Dude we have been trying to explain to you that the pump is constantly at 12 V, I have confirmed this with a DMM just 2 days ago. The mcp35x is controlled via PWM, not voltage.


I believe you but for me PWM = voltage regulation.


----------



## VSG

Ya I am done with that conversation now. Hey Bryan, end of Feb still the ETA for the new products from CES? My MCP35x is chugging along after 1 week but it can't provide more than 1 GPM in my complex loop and I only have enough space for a similar sized pump.


----------



## lowfat

Flow rate is overrated. You wont gain anything by going over 1GPM anyways.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya I am done with that conversation now. Hey Bryan, end of Feb still the ETA for the new products from CES? My MCP35x is chugging along after 1 week but it can't provide more than 1 GPM in my complex loop and I only have enough space for a similar sized pump.


For the new water blocks they should be available around the end of February to early March. For the H220X, those and the stand alone pump will be available around the end of March to early April.

@Lowfat is right too by the way. You really won't see much of a performance increase when going over a gallon per minute. However, these pumps will be easier to bleed because of the higher flow rate.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> For the new water blocks they should be available around the end of February to early March. For the H220X, those and the stand alone pump will be available around the end of March to early April.


what about the mcp50x? i need 2 now!


----------



## stickg1

I want a MCP-35X PWM but my 355 has nothing wrong with it and the noise doesn't bother me. So is there any performance gains or should I just save my money for a new case?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I believe you but for me PWM = voltage regulation.


pwm is not voltage regulation. go read what pwm is. it is sure as hell not voltage regulation.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Please help name my next build









http://www.overclock.net/t/1465435/poll-please-vote-for-the-case-used-in-my-next-build-now-help-with-a-name/40#post_21777709


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Added another 240 rad to my system....

https://imageshack.com/i/1x45ezj

https://imageshack.com/i/nd3zw7j


----------



## sinnedone

Looking real good Jamaican, notice any difference in load temps?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking real good Jamaican, notice any difference in load temps?


Havn't tested it yet,but i doubt i will see a drop in temps....My goal is to run games with all fans at 1200-1400 rpm when gaming....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Added another 240 rad to my system....
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/1x45ezj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/nd3zw7j


Very nice,


----------



## stickg1

I noticed a drop just by putting my 60mm thick Coolgate in push/pull instead of just push as it was previously. Very happy indeed.


----------



## szeged

anyone ever use this?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html?tl=g30c103s1847&id=ZhRyraS5&mv_pc=3162

primochill system prep?

i have a bottle here and was thinking about putting some in my loop before i tear it all down, gonna have to wait till monday to tear it down because im out of thermal paste and perf pcs doesnt have GC extreme in stock, or id get it tomorrow. Was thinking this might help flush out some of the flakes of nickle or anything left in the loop.


----------



## sinnedone

sounds like radiator flush for cars


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone ever use this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html?tl=g30c103s1847&id=ZhRyraS5&mv_pc=3162
> 
> primochill system prep?
> 
> i have a bottle here and was thinking about putting some in my loop before i tear it all down, gonna have to wait till monday to tear it down because im out of thermal paste and perf pcs doesnt have GC extreme in stock, or id get it tomorrow. Was thinking this might help flush out some of the flakes of nickle or anything left in the loop.


I have some too and debated on using it, googled and found some interesting things people said about it. In the end I decided against it fearing the unknown, and some of those comments weren't so good.

Not sure if it's true, but it completely borked one guys entire loop after leaving it in there for over a day.

tappin from the neXus 5


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I have some too and debated on using it, googled and found some interesting things people said about it. In the end I decided against it fearing the unknown, and some of those comments weren't so good.
> 
> Not sure if it's true, but it completely borked one guys entire loop after leaving it in there for over a day.
> 
> tappin from the neXus 5


This was my feeling too. I couldn't find enough positive reactions to it's use to justify risking it.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone ever use this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html?tl=g30c103s1847&id=ZhRyraS5&mv_pc=3162
> 
> primochill system prep?
> 
> i have a bottle here and was thinking about putting some in my loop before i tear it all down, gonna have to wait till monday to tear it down because im out of thermal paste and perf pcs doesnt have GC extreme in stock, or id get it tomorrow. Was thinking this might help flush out some of the flakes of nickle or anything left in the loop.


Got it with my LRT, but didn't use it. It shouldn't be necessary if you've already flushed your radiators, blocks, etc. before.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Got it with my LRT, but didn't use it. It shouldn't be necessary if you've already flushed your radiators, blocks, etc. before.


well im currently having some troubles with corrosion and nickle flaking, was thinking about putting a filter into the res and then putting some of this in the loop before i took everything apart and gave it another cleaning.


----------



## Jakewat

Back plate done, covered it in matte black and orange vinyls. Excuse my desk mess.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsef7f9529.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps3f274948.jpg.html


----------



## failwheeldrive

Nicely done! TJ07 is coming along well.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone ever use this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html?tl=g30c103s1847&id=ZhRyraS5&mv_pc=3162
> 
> primochill system prep?
> 
> i have a bottle here and was thinking about putting some in my loop before i tear it all down, gonna have to wait till monday to tear it down because im out of thermal paste and perf pcs doesnt have GC extreme in stock, or id get it tomorrow. Was thinking this might help flush out some of the flakes of nickle or anything left in the loop.


I've used it before. I'm not sure how much it did, but I can tell you that nothing bad happened.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Back plate done, covered it in matte black and orange vinyls. Excuse my desk mess.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsef7f9529.jpg.html
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps3f274948.jpg.html


Nice, really like the matte black. Now I kind of want to take my EK backplate off my Titan, and paint it matte black instead of leaving it as its glossy self. Dang, I never going to get my main rig back together at this rate.


----------



## King4x4

Oh my god... this thread went for one complete hour before somebody posted something! This needs to be rectified!

Had a miscalculation DERP with my Hydra 2 build... the top cover for the TH10 was an extended 85mm monstrasity but I assumed that the XTX480 was 60mm (UT60 somebody?!) while it was 64mm HERP DERP! So either to sacrifice the push/pull config or make it internal.... Internal it goes!




Tight fit is tight!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Oh my god... this thread went for one complete hour before somebody posted something! This needs to be rectified!
> 
> Had a miscalculation DERP with my Hydra 2 build... the top cover for the TH10 was an extended 85mm monstrasity but I assumed that the XTX480 was 60mm (UT60 somebody?!) while it was 64mm HERP DERP! So either to sacrifice the push/pull config or make it internal.... Internal it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tight fit is tight!


Keep the push pull, but get a set of thin fans for inside the top with the radiator, there are 120mm fans in 12mm thickness and 15mm. The UT60's really benefit from being run in P/P!!! It would also allow you to rotate that from rad so the ports are at the top, I can tell you from experience that it's a real bi*ch to bleed the air out of the system with a big rad mounted ports down!! Even with the little bleed port on that opposite end. And last thought, on 2011 socket, the CPU block does better at cooling with the ports going up and down vs left and right.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Back plate done, covered it in matte black and orange vinyls. Excuse my desk mess.
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsef7f9529.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps3f274948.jpg.html


While it looks quite nice, doesn't covering the plate in vinyl pretty much kill its passive heatsink functionality, . . . .

Though I suppose with WC, it isn't all that important.

Darlene


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While it looks quite nice, doesn't covering the plate in vinyl pretty much kill its passive heatsink functionality, . . . .
> 
> Though I suppose with WC, it isn't all that important.
> 
> Darlene


As fare as I can tell, it is a GTX770 witch doesnt benefit from a backplate other than looks and maybe anti warping of the PCB..
No RAM on the backside to cool









I did something similar with my board,
And yea, having the board under water and never running over 60 degrees, helped me decide if I dared to do this or not..


A plastic plate with vinyl wrapped around, mounted to the GPU with velcro. It didnt affect core or any other GPU temps.
It doesnt look as professional as @Jakewat's.. but it does give it a personal touch imo.

I just got my 680 swapped with a 780 (nice little upgrade for 100 dollars via RMA) so I need to redo mine since 780 is a bit longer :/
But hey.. its a 1 dollar project







a piece of self-adhesive A4 printable vinyl and a piece of plastic cut from an old PC case.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone ever use this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html?tl=g30c103s1847&id=ZhRyraS5&mv_pc=3162
> 
> primochill system prep?
> 
> i have a bottle here and was thinking about putting some in my loop before i tear it all down, gonna have to wait till monday to tear it down because im out of thermal paste and perf pcs doesnt have GC extreme in stock, or id get it tomorrow. Was thinking this might help flush out some of the flakes of nickle or anything left in the loop.


I used it on my parts prior to install and have had zero issues with the loop so far (used primo + distilled to flush with the kitty litter flusher lol)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Dang, I never going to get my main rig back together at this rate.


This is why you need several "main" rigs


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Dang, I never going to get my main rig back together at this rate.
> 
> 
> 
> This is why you need several "main" rigs
Click to expand...

QFT


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's why I'm glad I have my Source 210 up and running again, lol


----------



## stickg1

True, that's the main reason I built the mini rig in my sig. When my main rig is up and running the mini can easily be moved to another room for HTPC use.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I never going to get my main rig back together at this rate.


I hear ya. My main computer has been an 8" tablet since late last year.


----------



## rickyman0319

which one of these screw can I put for alphacool rad?

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g55/c479/s1238/list/p1/Screws-Screws_by_Thread-M3-05_Thread_6mm_long-Page1.html

I want to use like this:

case- alphacool rad - red eloop fan on sm8


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> which one of these screw can I put for alphacool rad?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g55/c479/s1238/list/p1/Screws-Screws_by_Thread-M3-05_Thread_6mm_long-Page1.html
> 
> I want to use like this:
> 
> case- alphacool rad - red eloop fan on sm8


get an m3 x 30 screw, any color you want. a 6mm long screw is not long enough to go all the way through a fan and into the radiator.

You can buy a pack from your local hardware store for $1, try lowes/homedepot/ace hardware.

If you are mounting the fans to the radiator AND a case, get the 35mm long ones just in case.

something like this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11463/scr-222/M3_x_35mm_Pan_Head_Screws_-_Stainless_Steel_-_4_Pack.html


----------



## VSG

He wants to go from case to rad directly so no more than 6-7 mm long screws, excluding the head of course.


----------



## Jakusonfire

It seems like he wants to mount the rad to the case.

Any of those 6mm screws will work fine, they are all the same except for colour and style of the head. You may need washers for 3mm screws depending on the case though as they are quite small.


----------



## rickyman0319

is this okay?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8777/scr-137/FrozenCPU_Anti-Vibration_Screw_Pack_-_M3_x_6_mm_-_50_pack_-_OSV01M.html?tl=g55c479s1238

the case is sm8


----------



## Kokin

What do you guys think about painting the heatsink portion of the Apogee Drive II to white? It will be in a matte black Mercury S3 case with 3 windows (right/left/top). My radiators are already painted white, as well at my GT's fan blades. I'll also be using Mayhem's Ice White Pastel for my coolant. Would it be too much white?

It would look something similar to this:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I believe you but for me PWM = voltage regulation.


Anyone with any basic knowledge of PWM is would know that it is time-based and runs at the specified operational voltage.

Voltage regulation actually limits the voltage, hence why you see heatsinks on fan controllers as that unused voltage is being outputted as heat.


----------



## Kimir

lol 2$ for 4 screws...
If you are willing to pay up, get something good looking at least.
M3 X 6 MM SCREWS BLACK-OXIDE BUTTON-HEAD
M3 X 30 MM SCREWS BLACK-OXIDE BUTTON-HEAD
M3 X 35 MM SCREWS BLACK-OXIDE BUTTON-HEAD


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I hear ya. My main computer has been an 8" tablet since late last year.


I feel you bro. Since august 2013 my "main rig" has been my GS3 -.- I hope in two weeks I'll finally be done and stare at a 27" monitor...


----------



## szeged

oooohhhhhh okay, he wanted to mount the radiator to the case, not case to fan to radiator, i need to read better.


----------



## amorello

I've had the same issue with my XT45. If you have a normal case then 6mm is enough, if you have a 750D then you need 8mm.
EDIT: you have SM8 so 6mm should do the job.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have sm8 case. so 6mm screw is fine for it.

is this okay:

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-mounting/screws/m3-x-6-mm-screws-black-oxide-button-head.htm?


----------



## pc-illiterate

ricky, run down to the ace hardware and buy some screws. its much, much cheaper. its where i bought all of mine. they will order 30-35mm long also.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have sm8 case. so 6mm screw is fine for it.
> 
> is this okay:
> 
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-mounting/screws/m3-x-6-mm-screws-black-oxide-button-head.htm?


Yes, that is what I linked literally 3 post earlier, caselabs aluminium chassis thickness is 2.3mm, it will be fine.


----------



## stickg1

Mounting Alphacool rads (or any M3 tapped rad) directly to the case, I just use the M3 threaded HDD case screws. Same threading, perfect length, most cases come with them.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well here's another option for fan to rad, for the record.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141135208984?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## stickg1

My block was delivered! Now to find a way out off work...
Hmmm, Wednesday was "debilitating migraine" when my 780 arrived. What excuse to use today? Sick stomach or shoot a trim nail through my finger?


----------



## ozzy1925

i was thinking of buying typhoon ap- 15 fans but i could find ap-45 in Canada.Are they very louder than ap-15 ?Do they make grinding noise if iuse them @lower rpms?


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My block was delivered! Now to find a way out off work...
> Hmmm, Wednesday was "debilitating migraine" when my 780 arrived. What excuse to use today? Sick stomach or shoot a trim nail through my finger?


Not a good idea. I put a 12p spike though my palm, and it hurt.... a lot (not at first surprisingly enough) The real problem was that it was a "ring shank", and the barbs tore my hand up coming out


----------



## wermad

Got some new goodies:



Yes, those are Phobya compression fittings (







) and primochill Pearl green.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got some new goodies:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, those are Phobya compression fittings (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and primochill Pearl green.


We expect pictures of them in your rig within the hour...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got some new goodies:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, those are *Phobya compression fittings* (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and primochill Pearl green.


i cant wait for the follow up post that looks something like this except inside your case


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*










Lol


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> Not a good idea. I put a 12p spike though my palm, and it hurt.... a lot (not at first surprisingly enough) The real problem was that it was a "ring shank", and the barbs tore my hand up coming out


when one removest an arrow from thy knee, one shallst pullest it outest the in the same direction by which it enterethed.

i.e. chop off the end and pull it all the way through.

that not hurting at first is often shock.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> Not a good idea. I put a 12p spike though my palm, and it hurt.... a lot (not at first surprisingly enough) The real problem was that it was a "ring shank", and the barbs tore my hand up coming out


Been there done that!! I had a 16p nail from my pneumatic nailer blow through a piece of rotted wood, it traveled through 18+ inches of air and embedded into my right hand. If you are squeamish or have issues with blood, DO NOT OPEN PICS!!!!!!!!!

DANGER, BLOODY PHOTOS!!!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ovrclck

edit:


----------



## wermad

Lol, i was waiting for the Phobya hate









Its a compression fitting. I'm gonna use a different o-ring (left overs from old Enzotechs). There's isn't much too complexity to compression fittings (non-revolving ones) tbh. So it should be ok







.

Waiting on BNeg for more Phobya ranting/hating









edit: Giving the fittings a slight make over so nothing in rig for now. Plus, I'm waiting on a psu rma







.


----------



## szeged

a phobya compression fitting killed my parents!

i am the compression man

i am the night


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> Not a good idea. I put a 12p spike though my palm, and it hurt.... a lot (not at first surprisingly enough) The real problem was that it was a "ring shank", and the barbs tore my hand up coming out


This kid that worked for me a couple years ago shot a 16ga trim nail through his finger tip one day. So I got out my nail pullers and gave him a block of wood to bite on. He freaked out and wouldn't let me do it, he wanted a doctor. So he called me after and said the doc did the same thing I was going to do and charged him $200. I said, "bummer dude, I was only gonna charge $50!"


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ok that was freakin' hilarious but yeah it's not a rotary&#8230;

Famous last words?


----------



## smoke420

Are there any inexpensive no spill quick disconnects. I want to move my system to a htpc case with external rads. They will be outside the system and I am using 3/8 by 5/8 tubing if that's important.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> a phobya compression fitting killed my parents!
> 
> i am the compression man
> 
> i am the night


How tragic......

Phobya rotary angle adapter gave me runs







loosing 10 lbs (lol, j/k).


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How tragic......
> 
> Phobya rotary angle adapter gave me runs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> loosing 10 lbs (lol, j/k).


lmao


----------



## wermad

@ $3 a piece, hard to pass them up when others are a bit more. Enzotechs were more then twice as much. Tempted to get Swiftech but most of my angle adapters have a knurled diamond grip design so the phobyas were more appealing. i have a bunch of satin black rattlers left in my storage closet so I'm giving the fittings a small squirt to match the Phobya extensions i also painted.

Downsized since 1/2x3/4 was putting way too much stain on my components.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ $3 a piece, hard to pass them up when others are a bit more. Enzotechs were more then twice as much. Tempted to get Swiftech but most of my angle adapters have a knurled diamond grip design so the phobyas were more appealing. i have a bunch of satin black rattlers left in my storage closet so I'm giving the fittings a small squirt to match the Phobya extensions i also painted.
> 
> Downsized since 1/2x3/4 was putting way too much stain on my components.


ive been thinking about going down to a 4770k again from the 4930k since i barely use 6 cores, was looking at the cost of mobo waterblocks for the asus z87 boards and wanted to cry lol, all the extra money id get from selling the rive-be and the 4930k would go straight into waterblocks for everything


----------



## Jakewat

@GaMbi2004
haha, thanks for calling it professional, but to be honest with up close inspection I made a few mistakes. This plate was made purely for aesthetics, made it from some 2mm aluminum off cuts and wrapped it in vinyl to be on the safe side of not conducting/ coming into contact with all the soldering on the PCB.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Keep the push pull, but get a set of thin fans for inside the top with the radiator, there are 120mm fans in 12mm thickness and 15mm. The UT60's really benefit from being run in P/P!!! It would also allow you to rotate that from rad so the ports are at the top, I can tell you from experience that it's a real bi*ch to bleed the air out of the system with a big rad mounted ports down!! Even with the little bleed port on that opposite end. And last thought, on 2011 socket, the CPU block does better at cooling with the ports going up and down vs left and right.


I'd use the same fans for both sides or I read you could get air turbulence or the fans somehow interfere with each other or something like that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ive been thinking about going down to a 4770k again from the 4930k since i barely use 6 cores, was looking at the cost of mobo waterblocks for the asus z87 boards and wanted to cry lol, all the extra money id get from selling the rive-be and the 4930k would go straight into waterblocks for everything


Not sure if I'll swap out my hexacore. There's a bunch of talk on future games taking advantage of more then four cores but nothing really has me convinced so far.

I'm already too invested in the RIVE and its a nice board. The BE is a tad nicer but I can't really justify the extra cost tbh when a used RIVE can be had for less. The Audio killed it for me on the BE tbh.

Loving this Primochill Pearl green. Was a bit hesistant in getting it but ppcs.com didn't have the Atomic green anymore. So, it was that or black. I'm glad I went w/ this. Matches the res. Now to buy a new bulb for the res (







).


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ive been thinking about going down to a 4770k again from the 4930k since i barely use 6 cores, was looking at the cost of mobo waterblocks for the asus z87 boards and wanted to cry lol, all the extra money id get from selling the rive-be and the 4930k would go straight into waterblocks for everything


Don't you have EK blocks for the RIVBE? If so, that should help equal out the EK M6F blocks (which are very nice as I can personally testify







)


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not sure if I'll swap out my hexacore. There's a bunch of talk on future games taking advantage of more then four cores but nothing really has me convinced so far.
> 
> I'm already too invested in the RIVE and its a nice board. The BE is a tad nicer but I can't really justify the extra cost tbh when a used RIVE can be had for less. The Audio killed it for me on the BE tbh.
> 
> Loving this Primochill Pearl green. Was a bit hesistant in getting it but ppcs.com didn't have the Atomic green anymore. So, it was that or black. I'm glad I went w/ this. Matches the res. Now to buy a new bulb for the res (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


my guess is by the time games actually use more cores consistantly, the 4930k will be considered old tech...and you know me lol. ive changed builds probably 4 times in the past 6 months.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> my guess is by the time games actually use more cores consistantly, the 4930k will be considered old tech...and you know me lol. ive changed builds probably 4 times in the past 6 months.


That's been my concern all this time. I'll see how my 3930K does once I get a new psu. I could easily sell it and just pick up a quad for cheap (I've had a few 3820s already).


----------



## Trolle BE

i bought white and red roses for my girlfriend today,she liked them but wanted more red ones
i added some mayhems red dye to the water to let them color red

sorry for the offtopic


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> i bought white and red roses for my girlfriend today,she liked them but wanted more red ones
> i added some mayhems red dye to the water to let them color red
> 
> sorry for the offtopic












Mayhem dye solves anything


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'd use the same fans for both sides or I read you could get air turbulence or the fans somehow interfere with each other or something like that.


Read again! Using different fans on either side of a radiator is just fine, and in some situations better. Sure you might have an issue if your push fans are 6000rpm deltas and your pull fans are 800rpm noiseblockers. I've done different fans on radiators before with zero adverse effects on performance.


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Read again! Using different fans on either side of a radiator is just fine, and in some situations better. Sure you might have an issue if your push fans are 6000rpm deltas and your pull fans are 800rpm noiseblockers. I've done different fans on radiators before with zero adverse effects on performance.


Ive used diff fans with good results also,

no disruption of space-time continuum


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> Ive used diff fans with good results also,
> 
> *no disruption of space-time continuum*


Even if you go back to 1955 and kiss your mom! Dude! You kissed your mom!









Lol, luv McFly and company


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> when one removest an arrow from thy knee, one shallst pullest it outest the in the same direction by which it entered.
> 
> i.e. chop off the end and pull it all the way through.
> 
> that not hurting at first is often shock.


I was messing around, shooting the spike gun for target practice, like id done MANY times, but this time i flipped my hand around the wrong way to pull back the tip of the gun (palm out, not behind the tip) I felt it hit but SWORE it just skipped off....

untill i didn't hear it hit its intended target... I looked at my co-worker and said "i didn't" by his eyes I could tell, I DID...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> I was messing around, shooting the spike gun for target practice, like id done MANY times, but this time i flipped my hand around the wrong way to pull back the tip of the gun (palm out, not behind the tip) I felt it hit but SWORE it just skipped off....
> 
> untill i didn't hear it hit its intended target... I looked at my co-worker and said "i didn't" by his eyes I could tell, I DID...


And I am guessing folks didn't see this post go up, it made for a long work day!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Been there done that!! I had a 16p nail from my pneumatic nailer blow through a piece of rotted wood, it traveled through 18+ inches of air and embedded into my right hand. If you are squeamish or have issues with blood, DO NOT OPEN PICS!!!!!!!!!
> 
> DANGER, BLOODY PHOTOS!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Been there done that!! I had a 16p nail from my pneumatic nailer blow through a piece of rotted wood, it traveled through 18+ inches of air and embedded into my right hand. If you are squeamish or have issues with blood, DO NOT OPEN PICS!!!!!!!!!
> 
> DANGER, BLOODY PHOTOS!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I once shot a nail just like that through the thick skin on top of the joint in your thumb.


----------



## Recoil P

Here's my newly finished wall mounted water cooled PC.

►


I am pretty happy with it, and it runs very smoothly and quietly.

►


I have also shot a short video of the rig: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXiyYCbPrt0

I started a new thread which includes more pictures and all the component details:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1467135/wall-mounted-water-cooled-pc-the-recoilmachine


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Very cool though I really think a thing like this is screaming for acrylic with it's straighter lines. And I normally wouldn't "recommend" it at all myself cause working with it is way beyond my own patience and skill level haha


----------



## wermad

A little satin black to get rid of the "black nickel"


----------



## Anoxy

Aww, black nickel is so nice. I would have sold you all my matte black bitspower fittings if you wanted black.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm using the black ones to those on my bottom rad and they do a good job....


Question, do you need longer screws to use these, or will the 30mm still work?

shoot, sorry for the double post!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Aww, black nickel is so nice. I would have sold you all my matte black bitspower fittings if you wanted black.


Too late







. I'm already more then half way through painting the lot. Not a fan of black-nickel tbh and the satin will matcth the rest of the adapters, rads, and case. Btw, you have 3/8x1/2?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Aww, black nickel is so nice. I would have sold you all my matte black bitspower fittings if you wanted black.


Black nickel is so nasty on fittings. I would like to see more black nickel plated waterblocks but IMO it should stop there.


----------



## Errorist66

Here's the inside of my new rig, a bit shameful compared to some of the picture I saw here but I had so much fun building it. I have quick disconnect at the Radiator to the graphic card and in the return into the reservoir. So I don't have to empty the loop to add a new graphics card. Which will wait until the visa bill clears out.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Here's the inside of my new rig, a bit shameful compared to some of the picture I saw here but I had so much fun building it. I have quick disconnect at the Radiator to the graphic card and in the return into the reservoir. So I don't have to empty the loop to add a new graphics card. Which will wait until the visa bill clears out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome dude! Feel no shame at all!


----------



## natsu2014

Finally finished my rig. There is nothing else I want to change now so I have working PC for some time


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Black nickel is so nasty on fittings. I would like to see more black nickel plated waterblocks but IMO it should stop there.


Nasty? Really? I think these look pretty darn good....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nasty? Really? I think these look pretty darn good....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm with him, I would have used either matte black fittings or silver shiny, I think the black sparkle looks "off" for some reason. But that's why they make so many different finishes!!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> when one removest an arrow from thy knee, one shallst pullest it outest the in the same direction by which it enterethed.


_Whan thou removeth an arwe from thyn kne, thou most tuggen it lyke whence it perced._


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'm with him, I would have used either matte black fittings or silver shiny, I think the black sparkle looks "off" for some reason. But that's why they make so many different finishes!!


well im with anoxy but everyone has their own preferences. i just like the subtle look black nickel/sparkle brings.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nasty? Really? I think these look pretty darn good....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I definitely think both builds would look better with matte black fittings. Although they are both well done systems.


----------



## Anoxy

Yikes, to each their own I guess. Black fittings on either of those would blend in and throw off the color balance imo.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I forget where I read about the fans thing, it may have been another forum post even, so I could be wrong.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yikes, to each their own I guess. Black fittings on either of those would blend in and throw off the color balance imo.


In your opinion, like I said, that's why they make different colors, people have different thoughts as to what does and doesn't look good! I personally don't want the fittings to stand out, I want them to disappear, I want people to see the PC hardware, NOT the cooling fittings!


----------



## stickg1

Umm, guys? Did I bork the temp sensor on my 780 or is this 34C on full load I'm reading legit?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Umm, guys? Did I bork the temp sensor on my 780 or is this 34C on full load I'm reading legit?


On water, decent rad space and low ambient? seems legit.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> On water, decent rad space and low ambient? seems legit.


Ambient is 21C right now. I got 1x 240mm Swiftech XP, and 1x Coolgate 240mm Ultra (60mm thick) in Push/Pull.

I'm beyond thrilled if this is accurate.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ambient is 21C right now. I got 1x 240mm Swiftech XP, and 1x Coolgate 240mm Ultra (60mm thick) in Push/Pull.
> 
> I'm beyond thrilled if this is accurate.


It's the Coolgate!! It fixes everything


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's the Coolgate!! It fixes everything


Dude I moved it to the front of the case and put push/pull on it and now it's seriously making heat it's *****

Best rad ever, for real!

Pics coming up, I'm like overwhelmed with happiness on how this all turned out today.

The reason I wanted to leave work early to install the block was my wife has to work tonight so I have all the kids (three boys, ages 4, 6, and 8), so yeah, it can get wild. I had the bright idea to go by Best Buy and get them Mario 3D World for Wii-U because Santa forgot it (lol). I haven't even seen any of them since we got home at 6pm, lol.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Here's the inside of my new rig, a bit shameful compared to some of the picture I saw here but I had so much fun building it. I have quick disconnect at the Radiator to the graphic card and in the return into the reservoir. So I don't have to empty the loop to add a new graphics card. Which will wait until the visa bill clears out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome dude! Feel no shame at all!
Click to expand...

Thanks







I like the GPU idle at 20Celcius and 40 under load with some overclocking


----------



## Lefik

I've heard bad things about EK's nickel plating, is this a problem on their 780 blocks?

Don't get me wrong, I love copper; but it just doesn't fit into my build all that well. If I get the copper block, is there enough clearance to make a custom back-plate that folds over the side of the card?

This picture shows the copper on the side of the block.


----------



## stickg1

I got the nickel because I thought it would look better in my build since I have all shining silver bitspower fittings. I hope I don't have issues. I use Mayhems Pastel coolant though. Staining I can handle, flaking is not gucci though.

Okay, I have to share. I know you guys are probably sick of my vibrant colors, but you'll just have to deal...


----------



## Ovrclck

Some goodies just got here. Now I wait for the S8.


















Sent from Note 3


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I got the nickel because I thought it would look better in my build since I have all shining silver bitspower fittings. I hope I don't have issues. I use Mayhems Pastel coolant though. Staining I can handle, flaking is not gucci though.
> 
> Okay, I have to share. I know you guys are probably sick of my vibrant colors, but you'll just have to deal...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now you need to make a mirrored PSU cover to hide the cables and show off the GPU block.











Darlene


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Now you need to make a mirrored PSU cover to hide the cables and show off the GPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I would be interested in doing that. Is that process in one of your build logs?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Note to self-mirrors work in other places other than walls and ceilings, lol


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Note to self-mirrors work in other places other than walls and *ceilings*, lol


Lol, tis the day for it..........


----------



## Jakewat

@IT Diva
is that acrylic mirror there? Because I've wondered what would happen if you heatgun'd and bent acrylic mirror, not sure if the mirror itself would get damaged or not.


----------



## VSG

lol I was waiting for someone to bring that up.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Better yet, mirrored, gold or brass colored acrylic tubing would be far less expensive than having a copper loop plated...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, tis the day for it..........


That it is, lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Now you need to make a mirrored PSU cover to hide the cables and show off the GPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I would be interested in doing that. Is that process in one of your build logs?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> @IT Diva
> is that acrylic mirror there? Because I've wondered what would happen if you heatgun'd and bent acrylic mirror, not sure if the mirror itself would get damaged or not.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I was waiting for someone to bring that up.


It's mirrored acrylic in that pic, the short part over the PSU ending at the rad, with a clear acrylic over top of it that runs half the length of the rad, with a matching forward piece.

I wanted the rad to show thru, but like the look of the cover, so I did it in clear, except for where I wanted to hide the PSU and cables and drain valve connection.

The optical drive bay cover is also mirrored acrylic, with a bend.

All my builds have similar acrylic PSU covers, so there's pics and details in all the logs.

Give me a few minutes to find the related pics to the bending and mirror, and I'll edit this post with them in a few minutes.

Darlene

Here's what you need to bend acrylic like a pro:



Here's the optical drive cover, when you bend mirrored acrylic, it gives a little silvery line in the bend crease. As long as you have the right heater setup, it leaves a clean, even, regular line that doesn't look bad at all.



Here's the PSU cover close up . . it's hard to get focus with the mirror PSU cover with the mirror back panel behind it, especially with a clear acrylic over the mirror PSU cover:



I have that cover designed so that I can take it out in a few seconds to get to the drain valve while everything stays in place, all the piping and all 4 GPU's.

Here's a couple more acrylic PSU covers from my630's builds:


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's mirrored acrylic in that pic, the short part over the PSU ending at the rad, with a clear acrylic over top of it that runs half the length of the rad, with a matching forward piece.
> 
> I wanted the rad to show thru, but like the look of the cover, so I did it in clear, except for where I wanted to hide the PSU and cables and drain valve connection.
> 
> The optical drive bay cover is also mirrored acrylic, with a bend.
> 
> All my builds have similar acrylic PSU covers, so there's pics and details in all the logs.
> 
> Give me a few minutes to find the related pics to the bending and mirror, and I'll edit this post with them in a few minutes.
> 
> 
> Darlene


When are you going to turn it on?!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's mirrored acrylic in that pic, the short part over the PSU ending at the rad, with a clear acrylic over top of it that runs half the length of the rad, with a matching forward piece.
> 
> I wanted the rad to show thru, but like the look of the cover, so I did it in clear, except for where I wanted to hide the PSU and cables and drain valve connection.
> 
> The optical drive bay cover is also mirrored acrylic, with a bend.
> 
> All my builds have similar acrylic PSU covers, so there's pics and details in all the logs.
> 
> Give me a few minutes to find the related pics to the bending and mirror, and I'll edit this post with them in a few minutes.
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> When are you going to turn it on?!
Click to expand...

It's actually all running on the tech bench.

I'm about to set up the Aquaeros and do some testing with the PWM output on some PWM D5's.

I want to have all the gotcha's worked out in advance.

Stretched Limos are not exactly maintenance friendly.



Darlene


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Very nice,


Thx mate....


----------



## sinnedone

Hello guys, I need a little input on pump tops for a mp35x pump.

I'm looking for clear acrylic top and as far as aesthetics goes I'm looking at the bitspower, ek rev2(without the crop circles), and xspc.

I can't really find any reviews comparing the 3 and want to know of there are any pros and cons to any of these?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hello guys, I need a little input on pump tops for a mp35x pump.
> 
> I'm looking for clear acrylic top and as far as aesthetics goes I'm looking at the bitspower, ek rev2(without the crop circles), and xspc.
> 
> I can't really find any reviews comparing the 3 and want to know of there are any pros and cons to any of these?


Regarding multiple pumps with xspc the only clear acrylic top available is the 3 way pumps. The two pumps top was replaced with a beater version V2 but after removed the Black cover you will be surprised as is not anymore so clear. If you already buy this double DDC top from xsps I can give you a solution to make it looks like this.


just send me a pm.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hello guys, I need a little input on pump tops for a mp35x pump.
> 
> I'm looking for clear acrylic top and as far as aesthetics goes I'm looking at the bitspower, ek rev2(without the crop circles), and xspc.
> 
> I can't really find any reviews comparing the 3 and want to know of there are any pros and cons to any of these?


xspc wins the performance reviews. the stock factory 35x top is the best top on the market though.

forgot, best review youre going to find
http://www.overclock.net/t/821693/review-roundup-bay-reservoirs-laing-tops


----------



## skupples

Too bad Swiftech hasn't been able to carry that over to a triple pump design.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hello guys, I need a little input on pump tops for a mp35x pump.
> 
> I'm looking for clear acrylic top and as far as aesthetics goes I'm looking at the bitspower, ek rev2(without the crop circles), and xspc.
> 
> I can't really find any reviews comparing the 3 and want to know of there are any pros and cons to any of these?


Polished CSQ is the way to go







.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-65-2.jpg.html

As for performance you should stick with the stock pump top. It is the best AFAIK.


----------



## IT Diva

Polished CSQ with one of the new EK metal heatsink housings would look sweet!



http://www.ekwb.com/news/419/19/EK-introduces-industry-first-DDC-Heatsink-Housing/

Darlene


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Polished CSQ with one of the new EK metal heatsink housings would look sweet!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/419/19/EK-introduces-industry-first-DDC-Heatsink-Housing/
> 
> Darlene


Good one Darlene








also available in chrome and if you use more there one (if space permitted) add a EK RAM water block/s


----------



## DarthBaggins

Liking my clear Alphacool top so far seems pretty clear to me lol








Adding my 240 as well but my mounting screws have seemed to have disappeared


----------



## sinnedone

Thanks guys, the polished csq just doesn't do it for me since I don't like the circles. Now if I had all csq blocks then it would look real nice. Unfortunately I couldn't go that route.

IT DIva, I have the polished version on the way and just trying to choose a clear acrylic pump top.









Thanks slinky, but my budget and space allow for only one ddc pump at the moment.

pc-illiterate, Thank you for that. I looked and googled but never came across that thread. Mostly martins and extreme threads came up.

For space contraints the alphacool one is a little too wide.


----------



## wermad

So much better w/ the smaller size (3/8x1/2). Luving the pearl green.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Polished CSQ is the way to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-65-2.jpg.html
> 
> As for performance you should stick with the stock pump top. It is the best AFAIK.


can you do me a huge favor? Give me a measurement of that from top to bottom? Thanks! I'm thinking about adding a third pump to reduce noise even more & would like to use these if I have enough room, though I already think the answer will end up being "NO I don't have enough room"


----------



## liberato87

ASUS GTX 780 POSEIDON, FULL REVIEW (AIR AND LIQUID)

http://www.xtremehardware.com/recensioni/schede-video/


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Polished CSQ is the way to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-65-2.jpg.html
> 
> As for performance you should stick with the stock pump top. It is the best AFAIK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you do me a huge favor? Give me a measurement of that from top to bottom? Thanks! I'm thinking about adding a third pump to reduce noise even more & would like to use these if I have enough room, though I already think the answer will end up being "NO I don't have enough room"
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, if you're wanting a triple pump setup, the triple XSPC top with the EK metal housings, like on my tech bench, height is right on 60mm and length is 190mm.

That's 2.36" X 7.48" for us backwards imperial folks.

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

What's a good fan that's below 25mm thickness for a rad as the BGears I was going to use on my pull side are a tad bit too thick to fit comfortably, with my 240


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, if you're wanting a triple pump setup, the triple XSPC top with the EK metal housings, like on my tech bench, height is right on 60mm and length is 190mm.
> 
> That's 2.36" X 7.48" for us backwards imperial folks.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks D.


----------



## 15goudreau

Hey Lowfat, where do you find 2000 grit sandpaper? I've checked my local department stores (home depot) and the highest they get is 1000


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Hey Lowfat, where do you find 2000 grit sandpaper? I've checked my local department stores (home depot) and the highest they get is 1000


Automotive parts stores will definitely have it. Someone a few days ago said they got it @ Pep Boys.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Hey Lowfat, where do you find 2000 grit sandpaper? I've checked my local department stores (home depot) and the highest they get is 1000


Do you have any locally owned hardware stores? Say, ACE hardware, or something along those lines... You may even be able to find it @ an auto-parts store. You can definitely find it @ a boating store if you have any of those in your area.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Do you have any locally owned hardware stores? Say, ACE hardware, or something along those lines... You may even be able to find it @ an auto-parts store. You can definitely find it @ a boating store if you have any of those in your area.


I didn't try an ACE hardware. I will definitely go look there next. Unfortunately it's winter here so all the boating stores are closed


----------



## stickg1

I motor-boat year round!!

But yeah, auto parts store will have it for sure.


----------



## n3gr0

new Arc mini R2.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I didn't try an ACE hardware. I will definitely go look there next. Unfortunately it's winter here so all the boating stores are closed


Don't need to try Ace, they only stock up to 1200. I was @local Ace yesterday and thought I'd look. But, Napa, Pep Boys, and Kragen (checker & schucks also) had up to 1800-2000 grit depending on store.


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> ASUS GTX 780 POSEIDON, FULL REVIEW (AIR AND LIQUID)
> 
> http://www.xtremehardware.com/recensioni/schede-video/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


+rep


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Don't need to try Ace, they only stock up to 1200. I was @local Ace yesterday and thought I'd look. But, Napa, Pep Boys, and Kragen (checker & schucks also) had up to 1800-2000 grit depending on store.


Some carry up to 3-4000 on 3M discs (I use them to refinish headlights)


----------



## nepToon

Very nice work n3gro. What components did u use and how is the d5 mounted?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Don't need to try Ace, they only stock up to 1200. I was @local Ace yesterday and thought I'd look. But, Napa, Pep Boys, and Kragen (checker & schucks also) had up to 1800-2000 grit depending on store.


Seems to be a regional thing. Ace is a privately owned franchise type get up from what I understand. This means they are allowed to pick & chose their stock. Pretty much everyone in my area caries up to 2000 grit, and some way beyond that. It's most likely because I live on the Eastern Seaboard's Yacht capital.


----------



## szeged

i was at ace yesterday looking for some screws for backplates, went to their sandpaper section and they only had up to 1500, i asked if they ever get 2/3k in and the guy said they dont even make anything past 1500. I walked away before i said something terrible.


----------



## skupples

Maybe he meant ACE brand only goes to 1500.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Maybe he meant ACE brand only goes to 1500.


maybe, but what we were looking at didnt have any ace brand sandpaper lol, idk, im just glad i didnt say anything because id probably not be welcome back to that ace.


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3gr0*
> 
> new Arc mini R2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude that blue fluid is amazing in the EK SLI block!


----------



## Anoxy

Received my RX360 V3 today....looks flawless. No bent fins or any imperfections. Excited to get my SM8, which is still awaiting fulfillment 8 days later =/


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Received my RX360 V3 today....looks flawless. No bent fins or any imperfections. Excited to get my SM8, which is still awaiting fulfillment 8 days later =/


The pure joy of having the case will make you forget all about the wait!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3gr0*
> 
> new Arc mini R2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good looking build. I just picked up the same case, hope to have some fun with it.


----------



## wermad

So my painting adventure ended in utter failure (typical







). Luckily, i had can of acetone and a quick soak brought my fittings back to normal. Just gonna keep them like that for now. I'll wait for my tax return to by some black ones like Enzotech.


----------



## wermad

So much easier to work w/ 3/8x1/2. The "black-nickel" finish ain't that bad so I'll leave it as is


----------



## pc-illiterate

i like the 3 invisible 7970s. i have a full set of those im waiting to use.
seriously though, do you like that bridge that much you needed to use it there?


----------



## Anoxy

The smaller tubing makes the case look ginormous....or maybe it just is ginormous?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The smaller tubing makes the case look ginormous....or maybe it just is ginormous?


Elysium cases *are* massive

EDIT - maybe it's not the Elysium ?? sorry


----------



## stickg1

Yeah it's a biggen. My 780 block looks nice but the card doesn't overclock worth a darn


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So much easier to work w/ 3/8x1/2. The "black-nickel" finish ain't that bad so I'll leave it as is


Looking good as usual wermad







that green tubing looks so much better than the clear
Any reason for the ridiculous amount of extension fittings on the top radiator?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i like the 3 invisible 7970s. i have a full set of those im waiting to use.
> seriously though, do you like that bridge that much you needed to use it there?


Cloud gpu powah







. Its a temporary mockup to connect the gpu's. The other three are standing by. The blocks need a thorough flushing since I tested some Mayhems dye that I decided no to use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The smaller tubing makes the case look ginormous....or maybe it just is ginormous?


It actually does. This is the same size as the hard acrylic so it does have that rigid look to it. Which me likes







. Its so much easier to work with and plumb. I wasn't struggling to screw on the caps like i did before. This more rigid Advance makes thinner walled tube like 3/8x1/2 more flexible and doesn't kink easily. I was able to plumb the busy mb, cpu, & ram area very cleanly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Elysium cases *are* massive
> 
> EDIT - maybe it's not the Elysium ?? sorry


Its the Blackhawk Ultra. It shares the same basic chassis as the Elysium though the hdd and bay cages are different (as well as the exterior. Also, the top can house a bank of 25mm thick fans where as the Elysium (had one a couple of years ago) is just a mesh cover. The Blackhawk Ultra is nearly Identical to the Fulmo GT from Enermax albeit w/ different fans and a few different tweaks here and there.

Got this one cheap and since it had support for 140mm rads, it was an easy choice. Top had to be slightly modded to accept the UT60 420 w/ p/p, the front 280 was easy as long as you de-rivet the hdd cage and the bottom required a psu extender to push back the psu and squeeze in another 280. Overall, I'm happy and its not going overtly expensive as the TH10 build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Looking good as usual wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that green tubing looks so much better than the clear
> Any reason for the ridiculous amount of extension fittings on the top radiator?


With the 420 on top, there's limited room for my fairly large hands. Plus I didn't want to obstruct the reservoir's fill port w/ the tube running there. I can barely get my squeeze bottle in so it helps to avoid obstacles as I'm feeding water into the loop.

I wanted to go w/ Atomic Green to match the cougars but ppcs.com was out. I like this pearl one a lot since it matches the FrozenQ reservoir quite nicely. Shame the bulb went out very quickly (so typical). Kinda hard to cough up $10 for one


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It actually does. This is the same size as the hard acrylic so it does have that rigid look to it. Which me likes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its so much easier to work with and plumb. I wasn't struggling to screw on the caps like i did before. This more rigid Advance makes thinner walled tube like 3/8x1/2 more flexible and doesn't kink easily. I was able to plumb the busy mb, cpu, & ram area very cleanly.


Definitely, I'm downsizing to the same size tubing myself for my rebuild. I like it much more than the thick stuff, especially since I'll be using angled adapters to get that acrylic look.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Definitely, I'm downsizing to the same size tubing myself for my rebuild. I like it much more than the thick stuff, especially since I'll be using angled adapters to get that acrylic look.


Schweetz


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah it's a biggen. My 780 block looks nice but the card doesn't overclock worth a darn


What core clocks did you get to,on stock volts i can do 1215 on each card,maybe its time for you to use skyn3ts bios....


----------



## stickg1

1228 gaming and benching. 1241 folding

The core clock and voltage won't stay put either. Seems like a power target issue too.

Which at 35C it seems like GPU Boost 2.0 should leave me alone, lol.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> 1228 gaming and benching. 1241 folding
> 
> The core clock and voltage won't stay put either. Seems like a power target issue too.
> 
> Which at 35C it seems like GPU Boost 2.0 should leave me alone, lol.


To get rid of the gpu boost and maxing your power limit you will have to flash the card with skyn3ts bios....


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> To get rid of the gpu boost and maxing your power limit you will have to flash the card with skyn3ts bios....


Definitely recommend doing this. 1.3V is super nice and allowed me to push my cards much further...though they're still not amazing overclockers.

Once you're on water, there's really no reason not to.


----------



## stickg1

Sorry for starting all this OT. But is 1.3v okay for this card? Seems like a lot. Even with the temps so low.


----------



## Anoxy

With the EK blocks, I'd say so...I've been running 1.3V on mine for a while (when gaming) and they're fine. VRMs are really the only thing to worry about and these blocks perform top of class in that department.


----------



## VSG

You guys realize that the actual volts will be higher than 1.3v right? Just be careful of GPU/component degradation or even death for reference cards.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah, I think 1.325V technically. I don't run this 24/7...only when a graphically intensive game requires it.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sorry for starting all this OT. But is 1.3v okay for this card? Seems like a lot. Even with the temps so low.


You'll be fine, after flashing just do the afterburner and llc mod/hack and if I remember actual volts will be 1.325....I ran 1.3. volts when I was benching, now I just run stock gaming on a 1080p tv....


----------



## VSG

Just saying - especially with Nvidia reference cards - the PCB components aren't guaranteed to handle high volts.


----------



## stickg1

I'll keep it at 1.212v, I was able to bench at 1267, which was enough to beat my friends Classified so I can relax now!









All while never breaking 38C on the core. This block is the jam.


----------



## duynhanle

This is of my watercooled HAF X.









Hardware
Cpu: Intel i5 3570k (Overclocked to 4.8ghz)
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77
Mem: 2 x G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866
GPU: 1 GTX MSI Lightning Edition
Case: HAF X
PSU: Corsair HX1050W
SSD: 1 OCZ Vertex 4 128gb SSD, 2tb Seagate Baracuda HDD.

Cooling
Fans: 16 Cooler Master R4-S2S-124K-GP + 3 Corsair SP120 Silent Edition
CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm
GPU: 1 EK MSI Lightning WaterBlock
Rad: 1 XSPC 360; 1 Swiftech Rad
Reservoir: Swiftech Reservoir
Pump: Swiftech D5 MCP 655 Pump
Tubing: 7/16 x 5/8 Primochill UV Blue Tubing
Fittings: XSPC Barbs, Compressions, and Bitspower Right Angle Fittings (I bought some more compressions after I put my computer together with watercooling for the first time)
Coolant: Good o' Distilled Water.
Thermal paste: Antec Thermal Goop


----------



## Anoxy

That's a huge window. Does it come like that or did you make it yourself?


----------



## duynhanle

I cut it myself. Took a while with a dremel and Jigsaw. haha


----------



## stickg1

It's definitely homebrew, I can see the raw aluminum/steel edges. I like it though, nice work!


----------



## duynhanle

I was thinking of getting some of the U Channel molding from MNPC Tech.. but I like the raw look of the side panel... and the first time I ever modded something as well.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I didn't try an ACE hardware. I will definitely go look there next. Unfortunately it's winter here so all the boating stores are closed


Funnily enough, Wal-Mart's automotive section should have 2000 grit sandpaper. I saw some when I went to get my car's oil changed.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its the Blackhawk Ultra. It shares the same basic chassis as the Elysium though the hdd and bay cages are different (as well as the exterior. Also, the top can house a bank of 25mm thick fans where as the Elysium (had one a couple of years ago) is just a mesh cover. The Blackhawk Ultra is nearly Identical to the Fulmo GT from Enermax albeit w/ different fans and a few different tweaks here and there.
> 
> Got this one cheap and since it had support for 140mm rads, it was an easy choice. Top had to be slightly modded to accept the UT60 420 w/ p/p, the front 280 was easy as long as you de-rivet the hdd cage and the bottom required a psu extender to push back the psu and squeeze in another 280. Overall, I'm happy and its not going overtly expensive as the TH10 build




The green tubing is a nice stand-out.
Doesn't look like much room for a psu in there ???
EDIT - ARRgh the psu extender








The Blackhawk looked real familiar at first and I though I recalled you having an Elysium, but then after posting I noticed the drive bay cage








Neglected for a while now - but managed to fit 2 420's and a 240 (all P&P) in mine.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duynhanle*
> 
> I was thinking of getting some of the U Channel molding from MNPC Tech.. but I like the raw look of the side panel... and the first time I ever modded something as well.


Either way I'd probably hit it with a file one time to get it a little more smooth. Nice mod though!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just saying - especially with Nvidia reference cards - the PCB components aren't guaranteed to handle high volts.


Right, this is why we have come to advise A.) EK blocks for GK110, and B.) to not push higher than 1.3(1.328 actual) for gaming/benching... 99% of the dead titans coming through T.O.C. are A.) Air cooled, and B.) have been folding @ high voltages for months on end. They are all blowing the exact same part too.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The green tubing is a nice stand-out.
> Doesn't look like much room for a psu in there ???
> EDIT - ARRgh the psu extender
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Blackhawk looked real familiar at first and I though I recalled you having an Elysium, but then after posting I noticed the drive bay cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neglected for a while now - but managed to fit 2 420's and a 240 (all P&P) in mine.


I gotta say I love those fans. I am about to have to bite the bullet and order some from Specialtech.UK


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> The green tubing is a nice stand-out.
> Doesn't look like much room for a psu in there ???
> EDIT - ARRgh the psu extender
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Blackhawk looked real familiar at first and I though I recalled you having an Elysium, but then after posting I noticed the drive bay cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neglected for a while now - but managed to fit 2 420's and a 240 (all P&P) in mine.
> 
> *snip*


Yup, Lian Li psu extender saves the day again. I got lucky the Lepa is 180mm and w/ the extender, I barely cleared the bottom 280 UT60. The bottom rad lineups properly w/ the mounting holes (unlike the top, probably 16mm spacing). I ended up epoxying some screws to the inside of the case so I can unbolt the psu extender for easy removal of the psu. Otherwise, I would have to undo the bottom rad to make room to remove the psu. I used M3 screws as there's plenty of wiggle room on the extender. Now just waiting on replacing my dead psu (







).



The mb tray is very flimsy once the cage was removed. Though its a bit stiffer once the quad gpus go in. Still, i may fashion a simple brace to help structural rigidity.

Picked up a new tool set. My old Ryobi was nice but these bad boys got my attention for the asking price







.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Haven't seen too many EK GPU blocks with LEDs installed on the 3mm slots.

Here are mine being prepped!


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So much easier to work w/ 3/8x1/2. The "black-nickel" finish ain't that bad so I'll leave it as is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the Black Nickel fittings, they look great
Click to expand...


----------



## szeged

cleaning my ek 780 classy block because of staining/possible nickle fading


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


















on the topic of fittings

I used to love the bitspower shining silver fittings, but when i switched to acrylic, performance pcs was out of the black sparkle fittings( and no shining silver at all) so i went with matte black since i wanted to order that day. Didnt think id like the black fittings, now ill never use anything besides them lol.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I believe I have perfected the plan:


----------



## p33k

Been tweaking my system, got rid of bay res, changed cpu block, moved a rad around... got the addiction!


----------



## Doc3379

P33k, that's a pretty sweet looking setup you got there. Very clean.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Haven't seen too many EK GPU blocks with LEDs installed on the 3mm slots.
> 
> Here are mine being prepped!


Very nice! I would be scared to crack the block, but you are a machine shop masta blasta.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Been tweaking my system, got rid of bay res, changed cpu block, moved a rad around... got the addiction!


NICE looking, love that coolant colour and the white case! Not familiar with that cpu block but the inlet and outlet look reversed, can't tell which way your coolant is flowing though1!! I guess gpu's then to cpu.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> NICE looking, love that coolant colour and the white case! Not familiar with that cpu block but the inlet and outlet look reversed, can't tell which way your coolant is flowing though1!! I guess gpu's then to cpu.


Its going res>pump>120>240>gpu>cpu>360>res

Honestly I checked the block then had second thoughts after leak testing I put it on the wrong way...seems its on the right way.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You guys realize that the actual volts will be higher than 1.3v right? Just be careful of GPU/component degradation or even death for reference cards.


If he is using the LLC.soft mod other wise it would drop quite a bit lower than 1.3V.

I ran 1.325V on my 780 for 3 months running full load 24/7. Was still going great when i sold it.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Its going res>pump>120>240>gpu>cpu>360>res
> 
> Honestly I checked the block then had second thoughts after leak testing I put it on the wrong way...seems its on the right way.


it definitely looks right then if thats the direction of the loop. what coolant/additive you using? It looks amazing. Matches your RAM covers perfectly.


----------



## RickRockerr

I just rewired my ddc pump to get rid of annoying starting problem with success!








I had to make the hole for wires little bigger though.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I just rewired my ddc pump to get rid of annoying starting problem with success!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to make the hole for wires little bigger though.


What was it you did?


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What was it you did?


I just changed new wires







Sorry if you misunderstood because of my bad english








E: And the problem was that pump could not start. It tried to start but it just spinned few times and stopped.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What was it you did?


Yeah. And what was the problem you had?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Automotive parts stores will definitely have it. Someone a few days ago said they got it @ Pep Boys.


That would be me... They even have the acrylic polisher too. I think out the door I paid upwards of around $15 bucks for both. That was a few weeks ago when I polished the inside of my non-CSQ blocks after applying a thin layer of black vinyl to the top of the nickel. This shot was taken before I did the inside polishing.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1936.jpg.html


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Very nice! I would be scared to crack the block, but you are a machine shop masta blasta.


The holes come pre-drilled from the factory to fit 3mm LEDs. All I had to do was find mm LEDs and plug em in.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> The holes come pre-drilled from the factory to fit 3mm LEDs. All I had to do was find mm LEDs and plug em in.


That makes allot more sense!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> I really like the Black Nickel fittings, they look great


Thanks







Its one of those small fan base so most of the time they're disliked.


----------



## 15goudreau

I ended up going to VIP auto. They had 1000 grit and 2000. Also had some plastic polisher so I just picked that up too. Here are the revisions. Took me all day and was definetly trying at times because I was taking shortcuts but I learned a lot and temps have never been better

new GPU block + 360 rad up top with 3 GT-15s

Polished GPU block

Polished pump top

idk why but my camera kinda sucks... everything is like a few shades darker than what the pictures look like

And yes I know about the ugly wires but being in college only allows for so much spending on my computer


----------



## stickg1

That looks really nice! Did you do it by hand, rotary, belt, or palm sander?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That looks really nice! Did you do it by hand, rotary, belt, or palm sander?


Did it by hand... took a few hours









Edit: Thanks!







I'm pretty pumped about the way it turned out. I still have to paint the top rad white but that is for another day.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> it definitely looks right then if thats the direction of the loop. what coolant/additive you using? It looks amazing. Matches your RAM covers perfectly.


Thanks! It's Mayhem's UV white pastel mixed with plain blue dye and UV clear blue dye.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Looking good peek.....


----------



## n3gr0

Thanks guys!!.

The components:

i2500k @ 4,6ghz | SLI GTX 680
Asus p8z77 m-pro | 16 RipjawsX 2133mhz
Corsair AX850 | Crucial m4 256
Fractal Arc mini R2

The d5 is with EK-140 res-top and EK uni-holder.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Thanks! It's Mayhem's UV white pastel mixed with plain blue dye and UV clear blue dye.


Such a nice mix you've got there. Writing that down in case I decide to rock UV lights in a future build.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Since adding the extra 240 rad in my case i can hear a gushing sound of water through the rads,i have tilted the case back and fouth/side to side yet still hear that sound....What can i do to get rid of it ?....Also when i turn the pc off the water rushes back into the res,when on it goes back down....Just for the record temps are not affected in anyway....


----------



## szeged

cleaned out my ek supremacy block today, what a hot mess that was lol.

spoliers because i took lots of pics.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Since adding the extra 240 rad in my case i can hear a gushing sound of water through the rads,i have tilted the case back and fouth/side to side yet still hear that sound....What can i do to get rid of it ?....Also when i turn the pc off the water rushes back into the res,when on it goes back down....Just for the record temps are not affected in anyway....


Keep tilting. It's still full of air


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Since adding the extra 240 rad in my case i can hear a gushing sound of water through the rads,i have tilted the case back and fouth/side to side yet still hear that sound....What can i do to get rid of it ?....Also when i turn the pc off the water rushes back into the res,when on it goes back down....Just for the record temps are not affected in anyway....


Sounds like you still have air trapped in there. The res is full when off and empties somewhat when on?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Keep tilting. It's still full of air


OK,will keep doing that....Thx man....


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> OK,will keep doing that....Thx man....


Can confirm mine is still making little blurp sounds every now and again but took a long time to bleed even longer than my 360 but i have a feeling its because its vertical. But should disappear over time.


----------



## Anoxy

Is there enough liquid in your loop?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Can confirm mine is still making little blurp sounds every now and again but took a long time to bleed even longer than my 360 but i have a feeling its because its vertical. But should disappear over time.


I was wondering if its because it's mounted vertially, never had this problem with my top and bottom rad before....

@ Anoxy....I have my res half filled still bleeding....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I was wondering if its because it's mounted vertially, never had this problem with my top and bottom rad before....


It's usually only a problem when it's mounted vertically AND the ports are at the bottom. If the ports are at the top, then it clears out really quickly.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> OK,will keep doing that....Thx man....


Not a tiny tilt either, try rotating the case almost 90 degrees to the back. Do it slowly and make sure the pump stays getting fluid!!!!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's usually only a problem when it's mounted vertically AND the ports are at the bottom. If the ports are at the top, then it clears out really quickly.


Will it get better overtime,and is there anything else i can do besides tilting it to get rid of those gushes....?


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah, with my vertically mounted rad, I had to literally pick my case up and turn it completely upside down, shake it around, and all that good stuff several times.


----------



## nathanblandford

Yeah my ports happen to be at the top so the big gushes went away pretty quickly but i still get the odd little burp. I did tilt it almost 60 degrees in every direction too when i was first bleeding


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Will it get better overtime,and is there anything else i can do besides tilting it to get rid of those gushes....?


It "could" get better over time if your running a loop that has several pumps to increase the head pressure to help push the air out. Otherwise, NO. That's the downside too mounting a rad that way. Bleeding the system of air becomes very hard without tilting the system. Understand though, tilting you system won't hurt it if you assembled it correctly. It's just a pain to have to do it.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It "could" get better over time if your running a loop that has several pumps to increase the head pressure to help push the air out. Otherwise, NO. That's the downside too mounting a rad that way. Bleeding the system of air becomes very hard without tilting the system. Understand though, tilting you system won't hurt it if you assembled it correctly. It's just a pain to have to do it.


Does it matter (the tilting of the case) whether or not the pc is on/off....


----------



## Lourad

You want the pump to be on to force the air thru.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> You want the pump to be on to force the air thru.


This ^^^^^ you need the pump on!


----------



## stickg1

What rad is it? If it has a port on the top loosen it up some with the pump running and the air will bleed out. Line anything around it with paper towels in case it overflows before you can tighten it back up.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> This ^^^^^ you need the pump on!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What rad is it? If it has a port on the top loosen it up some with the pump running and the air will bleed out. Line anything around it with paper towels in case it overflows before you can tighten it back up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> You want the pump to be on to force the air thru.


Will do as you guys say once i start back up my pc....Thx heaps for the help....

@ Sitck1....It's a xspc EX 240 so no extra port holes unfortunately....

Also the fact that i still have heaps of bubbles left inside the rad,i wonder if once cleared out if my temps would even be better....?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Will it get better overtime,and is there anything else i can do besides tilting it to get rid of those gushes....?


It may get better over time, or it may stay stuck. It really depends, and there's no real way for us to know. Best bet is to jar the case back & forth, violently. I have to shake my case quite a bit to get all of the air out. It gets stuck in the cpu/vrm area really easily.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Will do as you guys say once i start back up my pc....Thx heaps for the help....
> 
> @ Sitck1....It's a xspc EX 240 so no extra port holes unfortunately....
> 
> Also the fact that i still have heaps of bubbles left inside the rad,i wonder if once cleared out if my temps would even be better....?


Probably will because youll be getting slightly better flow and more contact with the rads surface area. Also only let your pump run when tilting as if you have a hdd not ssd when tilting it your upsetting a disk spinning at 5400ish rpm so i would advise to make sure your hdd is disconnected or only your pump is running as it is a tad safer.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Will do as you guys say once i start back up my pc....Thx heaps for the help....
> 
> @ Sitck1....It's a xspc EX 240 so no extra port holes unfortunately....
> 
> Also the fact that i still have heaps of bubbles left inside the rad,i wonder if once cleared out if my temps would even be better....?


It may drop coolant temp a degree or so, but I doubt it will make a difference in any core temps.

Another thing I like to do when bleeding the system is to power the pump on and off in hour or so increments. This lets the smaller bubbles collect into fewer larger bubbles making them easier to force out when turning the pump back on. If the pump is controllable in anyway, running it at full speed helps too

Also, make sure there is enough coolant in the res when tipping it around so that the coolant level doesn't shift around enough to allow the pump to run dry.


----------



## Archea47

This thread is dangerous to my free time

Added a lil 120mm ST30 to the mix, switched to white tubing, disassembled and cleaned the EK Supremacy CPU block (see below! bad stuff), added some white cables, disassembled & painted the BGears fanblades white, and added some vrm choke heatsinks to my sabertooth



Check this out ... With roughly a month of service there was some really disturbing stuff in my CPU block fins:



Since it's about the color of blood I suspect it had something to do with the Primochill "Intensifier" red dye. I was running distilled + the dye + a squirt of Feser anti-corrosive (glycol) with Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing. Everything including the tubing was flushed and bench tested with distilled before use. After the bench I took the block apart and it didn't have the blockages

Before I saw inside the CPU block I was impressed with how the dye hadn't stained the tubing


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I read Primochill coolant had pretty awful reviews.

Do you actually notice a difference with that rear 120mm radiator, esp now that you don't have a true fan exhaust?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I read Primochill coolant had pretty awful reviews.
> 
> Do you actually notice a difference with that rear 120mm radiator, esp now that you don't have a true fan exhaust?


Yeah I certainly won't be using their dye anymore

I don't have any upper rear fan exhaust - all my radiators are intake and then the side panel next to the GPUs has two 120s blowing out and of course bottom rear powersupply for exhaust. I'll stress test it tomorrow once the TIM has had some time/BF4


----------



## aaroc

Newbie question: Anyone is using this pumps aquastream XT USB 12V Pumpe ?
I see that you use D5 pumps from different vendors. is that a standard to make compatible pumps and accesories for the pump?


----------



## Jimhans1

@Archea47 if you didn't flush your rads with really hot water, it could just be gunk from in the rads that finally worked free. Remember, dye can stain, but dye doesn't cause clumps!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Newbie question: Anyone is using this pumps aquastream XT USB 12V Pumpe ?
> I see that you use D5 pumps from different vendors. is that a standard to make compatible pumps and accesories for the pump?


I have heard nothing but good things about them, but I don't know of anyone around here that uses one (off of the top of my head) That being said, it's made by aquacomputer, that means it's creme of the crop. I heavily debated getting one as my first pump, but was overwhelmed by the amount of functionality.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Yeah I certainly won't be using their dye anymore
> 
> I don't have any upper rear fan exhaust - all my radiators are intake and then the side panel next to the GPUs has two 120s blowing out and of course bottom rear powersupply for exhaust. I'll stress test it tomorrow once the TIM has had some time/BF4


Ahh, please do post your results!

I'm considering throwing on a 120mm on the rear, but I gotta figure out if it'll even provide any benefit or if I even have clearance for it.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

So i layed the case flat on the front where the troublesome rad is,then tilted the back and did get rid of lots of bubbles....However i can still hear gushes now and yet,it hasnt affected my temps in anyway at all so i'm just going to leave it be,hoping it resolves itself (fingers crossed)....


----------



## waveaddict

All this talk about front vertical rads being hard to flush,drain,bleed.Will a XSPC EX360 crossflow be difficult with one port on the bottom and one on top?Going in the front of a AIR 540.


----------



## Archea47

My rads have their ports on the bottom - for bleeding I think the trick is just keeping in mind the design. If your pump intake allows it for a front panel rad lay the case on the front panel and rock it back and forth until you stop hearing the air gushing through (keeping an eye on your res level of course)


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> My rads have their ports on the bottom - for bleeding I think the trick is just keeping in mind the design. If your pump intake allows it for a front panel rad lay the case on the front panel and rock it back and forth until you stop hearing the air gushing through (keeping an eye on your res level of course)


Did that and the gushing stop with the release of some bubbles,then once i put it back upright i could hear it again then it went away....The gushing isn't constant it just makes the sound every now and again....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Did that and the gushing stop with the release of some bubbles,then once i put it back upright i could hear it again then it went away....The gushing isn't constant it just makes the sound every now and again....


sounds like most of the air is out. My top rad also likes to trap air, I have to jar the case pretty hard to get it out.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Did that and the gushing stop with the release of some bubbles,then once i put it back upright i could hear it again then it went away....The gushing isn't constant it just makes the sound every now and again....


Tipping the case around with the power off can also help mate. It makes it easier to not worry about a pump starving. Right on its back, side, and even inverted.
It is easier with clear tubing to see air and water moving through the system but with mine I can get it maybe 80% full without even powering the pump. Then when I do power up it is just topping off.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> This thread is dangerous to my free time
> 
> Added a lil 120mm ST30 to the mix, switched to white tubing, disassembled and cleaned the EK Supremacy CPU block (see below! bad stuff), added some white cables, disassembled & painted the BGears fanblades white, and added some vrm choke heatsinks to my sabertooth
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check this out ... With roughly a month of service there was some really disturbing stuff in my CPU block fins:
> 
> 
> 
> Since it's about the color of blood I suspect it had something to do with the Primochill "Intensifier" red dye. I was running distilled + the dye + a squirt of Feser anti-corrosive (glycol) with Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing. Everything including the tubing was flushed and bench tested with distilled before use. After the bench I took the block apart and it didn't have the blockages
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before I saw inside the CPU block I was impressed with how the dye hadn't stained the tubing


It looks very much like just plasticiser. I had a similar slight build up every time I cleaned my CPU block even when using just clear water.


----------



## kizwan

It seems with more rads, bleeding also more difficult. Am I right?

I need help in making a decision. I want to add 120mm rad in the loop. Between HL Black Ice GTX120 & SR-1 120, which one should I get? Going to run push/pull on it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It seems with more rads, bleeding also more difficult. Am I right?
> 
> I need help in making a decision. I want to add 120mm rad in the loop. Between HL Black Ice GTX120 & SR-1 120, which one should I get? Going to run push/pull on it.


If your going to run push/pull, you might as well get the thicker, higher fin density GTX, and benefit the most from the tiny rad.


----------



## royce5950

Just got the thermal compound in for the new supremacy block. Block is in now too those pics are from last night.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It seems with more rads, bleeding also more difficult. Am I right?
> 
> I need help in making a decision. I want to add 120mm rad in the loop. Between HL Black Ice GTX120 & SR-1 120, which one should I get? Going to run push/pull on it.
> 
> 
> 
> If your going to run push/pull, you might as well get the thicker, higher fin density GTX, and benefit the most from the tiny rad.
Click to expand...

Thanks. GTX120 it is.


----------



## sinnedone

Hey guys, I was rinsing out my rads and one of them rattles in the inside. (like a catalytic converter when the catalyst material breaks loose)

Its brand new purchased only a couple of weeks ago. Should I try to return it or not worry about it?

Its an alphacool xt45 140mm rad. My other alphacool 280mm rads (st30/monsta) than came with the order do not do this.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hey guys, I was rinsing out my rads and one of them rattles in the inside. (like a catalytic converter when the catalyst material breaks loose)
> 
> Its brand new purchased only a couple of weeks ago. Should I try to return it or not worry about it?
> 
> Its an alphacool xt45 140mm rad. My other alphacool 280mm rads (st30/monsta) than came with the order do not do this.


It's probably just a piece of flux material or copper that's come loose. You need to keep flushing it until it comes out, or you'll need to return it because it could cause excessive restriction and reduced thermal performance.


----------



## szeged

Hey guys, need to order some replacement thermal pads, ive only used the stock ones that come with EK blocks, was looking at these

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46_58_1178&products_id=39712

and the 1mm variant, anyone use them? should i avoid them or grab a couple sheets?

ty.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's probably just a piece of flux material or copper that's come loose. You need to keep flushing it until it comes out, or you'll need to return it because it could cause excessive restriction and reduced thermal performance.


Well I found out where the rattling is coming from. One of the sides that has the small brackets inside the radiator frame that prevents the screws from puncturing the fins is not perfectly secured.

I was afraid it was something internal, but luckily it wasn't.

It doesn't look like this will cause any problems in the future, but does anyone else think different? These rads probably wont be in a running loop for a month or 2.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, need to order some replacement thermal pads, ive only used the stock ones that come with EK blocks, was looking at these
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46_58_1178&products_id=39712
> 
> and the 1mm variant, anyone use them? should i avoid them or grab a couple sheets?
> 
> ty.


Their Thermal conductivity is about twice to three times as great. The more thermal conductivity the better it will be. I would say they should be fine. Other users might chime in to support me or disprove me


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Finally got my EK nickel and plexi waterblock installed on my 7990 and it looks amazing, can't wait to get it into the system and see how it looks with coolant in it


----------



## Gunderman456

Anyone with experience with the Black Ice Stealth 360mm Gen Two rad, or should I stick with Swiftech?


----------



## lowfat

I can never suggest the GTS unless you dont care about noise. Those rads should only ever be used with 2000+ rpm fans.


----------



## szeged

all about dem SR1's from black ice







ill be nabbing three of those when i order the S8 from CL.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Finally got my EK nickel and plexi waterblock installed on my 7990 and it looks amazing, can't wait to get it into the system and see how it looks with coolant in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that thing is *huge.* I thought my 690 was large blocked up, but that 7990 definitely takes the cake. Looks really good.


----------



## Gunderman456

My Swiftechs are very quiet, ok will order the 360mm Swiftech, thanks!

Well szeged likes them, at least the SR1s. What do you say szeged about the GTS?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> My Swiftechs are very quiet, ok will order the 360mm Swiftech, thanks!
> 
> Well zge likes them, at least the ST 1. What do you say zeg?


i havent used the black ice stealths, but the black ice sr1 radiators are some of the best. if you want a black ice radiator get the sr1 for sure.


----------



## Gunderman456

Ok, so this one: Black Ice SR1-360 Silent Revision 1 Triple 120mm Fan 2-ROW Radiator G 1/4IN Threaded Black Carbon


----------



## szeged

yep thats the one.

which swiftech radiator were you going to use? its not like their rads are bad either, i was just talking about the sr1 since we were on the topic of the black ice radiators.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hey guys, I was rinsing out my rads and one of them rattles in the inside. (like a catalytic converter when the catalyst material breaks loose)
> 
> Its brand new purchased only a couple of weeks ago. Should I try to return it or not worry about it?
> 
> Its an alphacool xt45 140mm rad. My other alphacool 280mm rads (st30/monsta) than came with the order do not do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's probably just a piece of flux material or copper that's come loose. You need to keep flushing it until it comes out, or you'll need to return it because it could cause excessive restriction and reduced thermal performance.
Click to expand...

There are many examples of Alphacool rads with solder balls in the end tanks.
The balls cant get out but the rattling is muy irritating.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yep thats the one.
> 
> which swiftech radiator were you going to use? its not like their rads are bad either, i was just talking about the sr1 since we were on the topic of the black ice radiators.


this one: Swiftech MCR320-XP "eXtreme Performance" Radiator.

Which would be best?

Edit,

I went with the Swiftech, as the Black Ice radiator was thicker and if I wanted to keep my blu-ray I would not be able to have any fans on that third 120mm. As it is I will only be able to place an intake fan on that third 120mm slot nearest the blue ray drive.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> this one: Swiftech MCR320-XP "eXtreme Performance" Radiator.
> 
> Which would be best?


I have the Stealth and it seems pretty well suited if you are using high RPMs 1800+ I'd say. Martin has some charts with it on his website vs. the others at different RPMS, you might find that handy.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are many examples of Alphacool rads with solder balls in the end tanks.
> The balls cant get out but the rattling is muy irritating.


can we hear this rattling when the radiator is empty too?i mean when i shake


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hey guys, need to order some replacement thermal pads, ive only used the stock ones that come with EK blocks, was looking at these
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46_58_1178&products_id=39712
> 
> and the 1mm variant, anyone use them? should i avoid them or grab a couple sheets?
> 
> ty.


I used the 0.5mm size on the famed Titan, so it must be good?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow, that thing is *huge.* I thought my 690 was large blocked up, but that 7990 definitely takes the cake. Looks really good.


Thanks man, its 300mm long and the block is the entire length of the card, its going to look sweet when it has pastel coolant in it as the coolant takes up most of the block. Plus the finish on the plexi is so shiny.


----------



## Arvalin

Working on cleaning up the cabling now; any other suggestions would be great!


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arvalin*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on cleaning up the cabling now; any other suggestions would be great!


I would switch the tubes on the rad and make the rad to pump tube a lot shorter. I like short tubes personally, long tubes look eh.

That or change the loop order to go pump> gpu>rad>cpu>res

You can do what I did and use the fillport on the top of the res as an inlet


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I used the 0.5mm size on the famed Titan, so it must be good?


yupp, I use the fuji extreme + an EXTREMELY thin layer of TIM on each side. Good stuff indeed. Too bad my 1300W PSU strokes out before my titans hit their peak.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are many examples of Alphacool rads with solder balls in the end tanks.
> The balls cant get out but the rattling is muy irritating.
> 
> 
> 
> can we hear this rattling when the radiator is empty too?i mean when i shake
Click to expand...

Yes.


----------



## sinnedone

That's not the problem I'm having though. The screw guard bracket on the inside is loose on one side. That's why it only makes noise while I shake it hard from rinsing out.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arvalin*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on cleaning up the cabling now; any other suggestions would be great!


Well if looking to manage the cables better...you might want to check these cable combs out. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_1187_1189&products_id=40189

There's also a version that Lutro0 sells, but it would require you to pull apart the cables from the connectors to slide them on. http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth


----------



## Jimhans1

Leak testing the build I did for my wife.
System specs real quick:
ASRock X79 Extreme 6
Intel i7-4930k
16Gb (4x4Gb) Kingston DDR3-1866 CL9 kit
EVGA GTX780Ti reference x2 SLI
Crucial M500 960Gb SSD x2 in Raid0
WD 4Tb Black 7200rpm for storage
Caselabs SM8 w/31mm top, RATX, black
Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 1000w
Silverstone AP121 red LED fans x17
EK Blocks, pump top, and rads.
Mod my toys red/carbon fiber fittings 7/16x5/8
Primochill LRT Advance tubing
Mayhems X-1 UV Red with 15 added drops of mayhems red dye


Sorry for the crappy cell phone pick. Mother in law is using my EOS 1D MKIII.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Leak testing the build I did for my wife.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> System specs real quick:
> ASRock X79 Extreme 6
> Intel i7-4930k
> 16Gb (4x4Gb) Kingston DDR3-1866 CL9 kit
> EVGA GTX780Ti reference x2 SLI
> Crucial M500 960Gb SSD x2 in Raid0
> WD 4Tb Black 7200rpm for storage
> Caselabs SM8 w/31mm top, RATX, black
> Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 1000w
> Silverstone AP121 red LED fans x17
> EK Blocks, pump top, and rads.
> Mod my toys red/carbon fiber fittings 7/16x5/8
> Primochill LRT Advance tubing
> Mayhems X-1 UV Red with 15 added drops of mayhems red dye
> 
> 
> Sorry for the crappy cell phone pick. Mother in law is using my EOS 1D MKIII.


I hope your wife actually makes use of that beasty system and doesnt just use it for solitaire and internet browsing


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got the thermal compound in for the new supremacy block. Block is in now too those pics are from last night.


Nice bro! Looks great








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Well if looking to manage the cables better...you might want to check these cable combs out. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_1187_1189&products_id=40189
> 
> There's also a version that Lutro0 sells, but it would require you to pull apart the cables from the connectors to slide them on. http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth


Lutro carries those same combs as ppcs as well...
Or "stitch them yourself and save $$ (but is very time consuming). In fact I used those combs as a "guide" while stitching mine.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I hope your wife actually makes use of that beasty system and doesnt just use it for solitaire and internet browsing


lol I know my girlfriend would definitely not make any real use of that beast.


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Leak testing the build I did for my wife.
> System specs real quick:
> ASRock X79 Extreme 6
> Intel i7-4930k
> 16Gb (4x4Gb) Kingston DDR3-1866 CL9 kit
> EVGA GTX780Ti reference x2 SLI
> Crucial M500 960Gb SSD x2 in Raid0
> WD 4Tb Black 7200rpm for storage
> Caselabs SM8 w/31mm top, RATX, black
> Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 1000w
> Silverstone AP121 red LED fans x17
> EK Blocks, pump top, and rads.
> Mod my toys red/carbon fiber fittings 7/16x5/8
> Primochill LRT Advance tubing
> Mayhems X-1 UV Red with 15 added drops of mayhems red dye
> 
> 
> Sorry for the crappy cell phone pick. Mother in law is using my EOS 1D MKIII.






I think now you have to tell us what your wife will be doing on this ridiculous pc.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Leak testing the build I did for my wife.
> System specs real quick:
> ASRock X79 Extreme 6
> Intel i7-4930k
> 16Gb (4x4Gb) Kingston DDR3-1866 CL9 kit
> EVGA GTX780Ti reference x2 SLI
> Crucial M500 960Gb SSD x2 in Raid0
> WD 4Tb Black 7200rpm for storage
> Caselabs SM8 w/31mm top, RATX, black
> Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 1000w
> Silverstone AP121 red LED fans x17
> EK Blocks, pump top, and rads.
> Mod my toys red/carbon fiber fittings 7/16x5/8
> Primochill LRT Advance tubing
> Mayhems X-1 UV Red with 15 added drops of mayhems red dye
> 
> Sorry for the crappy cell phone pick. Mother in law is using my EOS 1D MKIII.


Now that's what I call love.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just thought I'd ask here, I have a cm V850 psu and was going to jumper the 24pin tax the noticed all the cables are black so kinda hard to find the green wire to jump to black, anyone have a pin diagram or know which PIN numbers I should jump so I can bleed the loop lol, very much appreciated

He'll my gf is happy with the source 210 reboot I put together for her to run CAD off of for her. Other she now wants it watercooled after showing her this thread lol


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just thought I'd ask here, I have a cm V850 psu and was going to jumper the 24pin tax the noticed all the cables are black so kinda hard to find the green wire to jump to black, anyone have a pin diagram or know which PIN numbers I should jump so I can bleed the loop lol, very much appreciated


Googled a pic earlier and found this:



It's the same for all 24pin motherboard cables.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just thought I'd ask here, I have a cm V850 psu and was going to jumper the 24pin tax the noticed all the cables are black so kinda hard to find the green wire to jump to black, anyone have a pin diagram or know which PIN numbers I should jump so I can bleed the loop lol, very much appreciated


Hold the 20/24 pin plug from the PSU so that you are looking down into the pins with the clip latch up. On the top (clip-side) row count 4 pins from the left - that's the 'power on' wire - and the pins on either side of it are ground & you can jumper with a paperclip to either one.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hold the 20/24 pin plug from the PSU so that you are looking down into the pins with the clip latch up. On the top (clip-side) row count 4 pins from the left - that's the 'power on' wire - and the pins on either side of it are ground & you can jumper with a paperclip to either one.


Awesome







saw that on another forum but knew I'd rather hear it from someone on here


----------



## Kimir

yeah a paperclip between ps-on and any com will do.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> My Swiftechs are very quiet, ok will order the 360mm Swiftech, thanks!
> 
> Well szeged likes them, at least the SR1s. What do you say szeged about the GTS?


I'm using GTS360 in my loop. It works well with fans at 1100 - 1200 RPM. Tested between 1200 RPM & ~2350 RPM, the difference is just 3 - 4C (CPU temp when under load).


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I hope your wife actually makes use of that beasty system and doesnt just use it for solitaire and internet browsing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I know my girlfriend would definitely not make any real use of that beast.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> I think now you have to tell us what your wife will be doing on this ridiculous pc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Now that's what I call love.


My wife is a remote medical records coder, so she will be using it on a daily basis; she also plays BF4 & COD with me on her Dell U2711 and she likes to do a lot of photo editing.

She has been using the same system for the last 5-6 years, an LGA1156 i5-661, Asus H55M-pro, 16gb ram, 1Tb HDD, and a GTX580.

I was gonna build the same system as in my original post, but use 3-580's instead of the 780Ti's, but she honestly deserved this, she is an awesome wife and phenomenal mother to our child, she has watched me build machine after machine, and bring home gun after gun and not uttered even one complaint. She is one of the best things to happen to me in my life, along with my son. So even if she "doesn't" fully utilize the machines capabilities everyday, it's the least I could do. And let's be honest, do ANY of us utilize our machines to their fullest every day?










P.S. It will also be a backup system for me when I do upgrades etc to my main system.


----------



## PinzaC55

I have neglected my baby for a couple of months but have just given her a new EVGA PSU and will install a second GTX 690 as soon as the part I need arrives from a "certain UK computer parts supplier" in Manchester while I have been waiting 7 days since paying for it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> My wife is a remote medical records coder, so she will be using it on a daily basis; she also plays BF4 & COD with me on her Dell U2711 and she likes to do a lot of photo editing.
> 
> She has been using the same system for the last 5-6 years, an LGA1156 i5-661, Asus H55M-pro, 16gb ram, 1Tb HDD, and a GTX580.
> 
> I was gonna build the same system as in my original post, but use 3-580's instead of the 780Ti's, but she honestly deserved this, she is an awesome wife and phenomenal mother to our child, she has watched me build machine after machine, and bring home gun after gun and not uttered even one complaint. She is one of the best things to happen to me in my life, along with my son. So even if she "doesn't" fully utilize the machines capabilities everyday, it's the least I could do. And let's be honest, do ANY of us utilize our machines to their fullest every day?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. It will also be a backup system for me when I do upgrades etc to my main system.


Great post +1


----------



## SlvrDragon50

We all know that the PS is the real reason you built such a machine


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> We all know that the PS is the real reason you built such a machine


Lol, if that were the case, I would have honestly just said so, she doesn't have an OCN account







so no browny points for saying it here........

And her older system was in need of replacing, lynnfield/clarksdale were good CPUs, but just like 1366, they are dead and need to be put to pasture, I yanked the 580 out and gave that system to my parents so that they didn't have to use my moms laptop (single core Celeron, ugh) for daily use.


----------



## IT Diva

Good thing I'm not planning on cooking dinner anytime soon . . . . .









Been working on the PWM issue with the Aquaero 6 with PWM D5's . . .

Made a few bits of electronics hardware and have a pretty nice workaround at this point, but the A6 just severely lacks lower PWM range resolution.

It shows as incrementing by percent on the Aquasuite screen, but the scope shows otherwise.

I'll be using a pair of 35X's soon, to see why they seem to work so much better.

Darlene


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> as soon as the part I need arrives from a "certain UK computer parts supplier" in Manchester while I have been waiting 7 days since paying for it.


Yikes, very sorry to hear that if you're referring to who I think you are


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Yikes, very sorry to hear that if you're referring to who I think you are


If he's referring to who I think he is, he needs to get his money back asap.


----------



## smoke420

Just finished moving my rig into its new home. The Enthoo Primo.
For the record all the fittings are the same color. The camera on my cell really sucks.

What do you guys and girls think?


----------



## szeged

Looks great, reminds me of an alien ship


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Yikes, very sorry to hear that if you're referring to who I think you are


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> If he's referring to who I think he is, he needs to get his money back asap.


The person we are both thinking of isn't in manchester though. He's in Portsmouth sea something.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Leak testing the build I did for my wife.
> System specs real quick:
> ASRock X79 Extreme 6
> Intel i7-4930k
> 16Gb (4x4Gb) Kingston DDR3-1866 CL9 kit
> EVGA GTX780Ti reference x2 SLI
> Crucial M500 960Gb SSD x2 in Raid0
> WD 4Tb Black 7200rpm for storage
> Caselabs SM8 w/31mm top, RATX, black
> Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 1000w
> Silverstone AP121 red LED fans x17
> EK Blocks, pump top, and rads.
> Mod my toys red/carbon fiber fittings 7/16x5/8
> Primochill LRT Advance tubing
> Mayhems X-1 UV Red with 15 added drops of mayhems red dye


Dude ... Jimhans1 ... You should have checked My Girl's Box sig rig for reference







You're making the rest of us look bad!!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I hope your wife actually makes use of that beasty system and doesnt just use it for solitaire and internet browsing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I know my girlfriend would definitely not make any real use of that beast.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> I think now you have to tell us what your wife will be doing on this ridiculous pc.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Now that's what I call love.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife is a remote medical records coder, so she will be using it on a daily basis; she also plays BF4 & COD with me on her Dell U2711 and she likes to do a lot of photo editing.
> 
> She has been using the same system for the last 5-6 years, an LGA1156 i5-661, Asus H55M-pro, 16gb ram, 1Tb HDD, and a GTX580.
> 
> I was gonna build the same system as in my original post, but use 3-580's instead of the 780Ti's, but she honestly deserved this, she is an awesome wife and phenomenal mother to our child, she has watched me build machine after machine, and bring home gun after gun and not uttered even one complaint. She is one of the best things to happen to me in my life, along with my son. So even if she "doesn't" fully utilize the machines capabilities everyday, it's the least I could do. And let's be honest, do ANY of us utilize our machines to their fullest every day?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. It will also be a backup system for me when I do upgrades etc to my main system.
Click to expand...

Coming from a guy who is in a similar situation, my wife works just as much as I do, is a great mother to both of our children, and is surprisingly supportive of my habit (addiction)...I got a lot of respect for this. +1
But I will be honest, my wife is pretty much the stereotypical woman as a computer user. She does a fair about of web browsing, pays the bills, and loves to coupon. So when I gave her my old i7 920, 6GB of RAM and a GTX 260...she was floored by it lol.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

1850 RPM Scythe Gentle Typhoons have arrived.


----------



## nathanblandford

here's my finished build with better quality photos, more of which are in my build log.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Woo! Lamptron FC5V2. I love mine.

I just wish it aligned better with my case.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Woo! Lamptron FC5V2. I love mine.
> 
> I just wish it aligned better with my case.


thats the V3 btw









couldnt get it where i live so i had to order it from frozencpu

yeah i couldnt be happier im looking to mod the blanking plates so it will be aligned with the aluminium front perfectly.


----------



## stickg1

So microATX boards with available aftermarket VRM water blocks.. Is the Maximus Genes my only option?


----------



## LostKauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Looks pretty good. What is the make on the top radiator? And where is the second tube to that top radiator, I see the one tube by the CPU going to the radiator, but where is the other one?


good question, its a cross flow black ice gt the other tube runs on the other side of the drive cage down to the res.




______
Also ill be entering the club myself very soon.

https://davidtechmedia.squarespace.com/the-sith-lord/


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 1850 RPM Scythe Gentle Typhoons have arrived.


whered u get yours? i don't wanna order from frozen, but if theres nothing from sidewinder until next weekend, i may have no choice.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> whered u get yours? i don't wanna order from frozen, but if theres nothing from sidewinder until next weekend, i may have no choice.


What is wrong with frozen?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i havent used the black ice stealths, but the black ice sr1 radiators are some of the best. if you want a black ice radiator get the sr1 for sure.


I love my Black Ice GTX's (240 and 560). Superb fit and finish and the fpi is pretty crazy...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> whered u get yours? i don't wanna order from frozen, but if theres nothing from sidewinder until next weekend, i may have no choice.


all the typical US outlets have them, but they are selling for 19.99$ a piece right now. Companies profiting off of the nidec/scythe fall out. There is quite obviously no shortage though, FCPU has like 500+ @ any given time.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love my Black Ice GTX's (240 and 560). Superb fit and finish and the fpi is pretty crazy...


Do you think it would offer better performance for my system than my current UT60 240? (Icarus Wings in the sig). I have no more room for additional rads ... I've heard that I have more rad than necessary for what I'm cooling but lowering the speeds of my UT60 fans (3k GTs) makes a noticeable increase in core temps so I think I can cool the water further


----------



## skupples

dem 3k typhoons! I'm definitely going to run a strip of those in p/p on a Monsta in my next build. It should work extremely well.


----------



## szeged

on the topic of radiators...

how in the hell does this pass quality control at alphacool? they should be ashamed to even ship these out like this


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Is there any proper protocol on where at on a PC to install the Bitspower air exhaust valve?

I placed an order for one tonight and I'm trying to debate on whether it should go on the very bottom, near the 240 or at the top where I fill up the reservoir... Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> on the topic of radiators...
> 
> how in the hell does this pass quality control at alphacool? they should be ashamed to even ship these out like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That sucks. Which vendor did they come from? Straight from alpha? I've bought close to 12-14 alpha rads in the past 2+years, only one showed up with bent fins, and it was one that had been returned to PPCS for whatever reason and then put back into inventory. At least that is what Duke told me happened, they swapped it out for me, no return shipping needed, they sent me a prepaid label.....


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That sucks. Which vendor did they come from? Straight from alpha? I've bought close to 12-14 alpha rads in the past 2+years, only one showed up with bent fins, and it was one that had been returned to PPCS for whatever reason and then put back into inventory. At least that is what Duke told me happened, they swapped it out for me, no return shipping needed, they sent me a prepaid label.....


got it from PPCs, and its going right back to them.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Yikes, very sorry to hear that if you're referring to who I think you are


Almost certainly. I have emptied my money down the WC.
They'll get a negative feedback and I will block them as a seller so I am never tempted to use them again. I asked where my item was, who they were using as a courier and if there was a tracking number and they said Royal Mail and supplied a TN. Put it into Royal Mail Tracking and it says "there is no information on your item".
BTW it is not "Lucid Dream" - this is an established supplier but judging by their neg feedback they have taken their eyes off the ball.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> whered u get yours? i don't wanna order from frozen, but if theres nothing from sidewinder until next weekend, i may have no choice.


I ordered from FrozenCPU. Performance PCs has them listed for a lot cheaper, but the 1850 rpm models are out of stock. I also wanted them from PPCs because they came ore sleeved. FrozenCPU sent me the ones with the sissy colors.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got it from PPCs, and its going right back to them.


My first radiator arrived just like yours. It's my first water cooler project, so I didn't make much of it. I've seen worse on automobile rads, so I figured it wouldn't be a problem another than cosmetic.


----------



## kpoeticg

2 of my rads have arrived worse than that. I had a UT60 280 that had probly twice the bent fins and my EX360 was just mangled. As long as it doesn't leak, i'd rather just fix the fins than wait for rma. The Alphacool's were notorious for that for a while


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My first radiator arrived just like yours. It's my first water cooler project, so I didn't make much of it. I've seen worse on automobile rads, so I figured it wouldn't be a problem another than cosmetic.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 2 of my rads have arrived worse than that. I had a UT60 280 that had probly twice the bent fins and my EX360 was just mangled. As long as it doesn't leak, i'd rather just fix the fins than wait for rma. The Alphacool's were notorious for that for a while


yeah its just cosmetic, i confirmed the radiator has no leaks, its just when i spend almost $140 for a radiator, i kind of expect it to show up in somewhat decent quality. starting to think i should have went with black ice rads for this build over alphacool lol.

slightly off topic question -

what do you guys think about re using thermal pads? atm im re using the stock EK thermal pads because i ran out of new ones, was going to order some fujipoly ones but if reusing doesnt affect anything then i think ill save some money and keep what i have.

One last thing, prolimatech pk2, any good? i found an unopened tube of it and was going to use it, again to save some money because i dont really want to buy the gelid extreme 10g since PPCs is out of the smaller container of gelid extreme.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Finally got my EK nickel and plexi waterblock installed on my 7990 and it looks amazing, can't wait to get it into the system and see how it looks with coolant in it


That thing is huge!







At least compared to my 670's with short pcb


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah its just cosmetic, i confirmed the radiator has no leaks, its just when i spend almost $140 for a radiator, i kind of expect it to show up in somewhat decent quality. starting to think i should have went with black ice rads for this build over alphacool lol.
> 
> slightly off topic question -
> 
> what do you guys think about re using thermal pads? atm im re using the stock EK thermal pads because i ran out of new ones, was going to order some fujipoly ones but if reusing doesnt affect anything then i think ill save some money and keep what i have.
> 
> One last thing, prolimatech pk2, any good? i found an unopened tube of it and was going to use it, again to save some money because i dont really want to buy the gelid extreme 10g since PPCs is out of the smaller container of gelid extreme.


pk-2 and pk-3 are both very good.


----------



## stickg1

Anyone know of any microATX Z77 boards with aftermarket blocks available other than the MVG?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well Frankenstein is up and running again with no issues and much better temp under full folding load, woot woot










Glad I had that 240 to add to the loop


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well Frankenstein is up and running again with no issues and much better temp under full folding load, woot woot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad I had that 240 to add to the loop


Nice temps!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Surprised me, was originally peaking at 50c under load ad clocked at 4.3ghz only under a single 120 rad


----------



## capreppy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got it from PPCs, and its going right back to them.


That's disappointing. I have two white 360 Monsta's enroute







Hoping it was an isolated incident. Not PPC's fault and I'm sure they'll make it right.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah its just cosmetic, i confirmed the radiator has no leaks, its just when i spend almost $140 for a radiator, i kind of expect it to show up in somewhat decent quality. starting to think i should have went with black ice rads for this build over alphacool lol.
> 
> slightly off topic question -
> 
> what do you guys think about re using thermal pads? atm im re using the stock EK thermal pads because i ran out of new ones, was going to order some fujipoly ones but if reusing doesnt affect anything then i think ill save some money and keep what i have.
> 
> One last thing, prolimatech pk2, any good? i found an unopened tube of it and was going to use it, again to save some money because i dont really want to buy the gelid extreme 10g since PPCs is out of the smaller container of gelid extreme.


Nah man, black ice sucks compared to alphacool









I have PK3, works great. Pretty much the same performance as PK2.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Coming from a guy who is in a similar situation, my wife works just as much as I do, is a great mother to both of our children, and is surprisingly supportive of my habit (addiction)...I got a lot of respect for this. +1
> But I will be honest, my wife is pretty much the stereotypical woman as a computer user. She does a fair about of web browsing, pays the bills, and loves to coupon. So when I gave her my old i7 920, 6GB of RAM and a GTX 260...she was floored by it lol.


Kind of like my mother. Though, I feel sorry if I ever marry a guy who likes computers as well. We both probably wind up with computer parts everywhere.







Just I probably be the worst since I got a growing list of expensive habits, computers, art supplies, power tools, and the motorcycle.







Just case in point, I just bought me some fans for the computer. If unlucky, I probably going to waste way more than that this weekend if I wind up in a art supply store.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Is there any proper protocol on where at on a PC to install the Bitspower air exhaust valve?
> 
> I placed an order for one tonight and I'm trying to debate on whether it should go on the very bottom, near the 240 or at the top where I fill up the reservoir... Any help would be greatly appreciated.


As high as possible, to help bleed the air out. Also, don't push on it with the pump running lol

Having it at the fill port won't do a whole lot of good though, incorporate it into the loop using a T-splitter or something similar. Use a passive air pass through such as the Aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane on the fill port instead.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Nah man, black ice sucks compared to alphacool


I'm going to have to disagree. I've had an ST30 and currently have a BI GTX480 and the BI feels like much higher quality than the ST30 did. The only advantage the ST30 had over the BI was the screw guards. Granted the ST30 was only a 120mm, but it just felt cheaper than the GTX does. HWL/BI has always been one of the top radiator manufacturers, the quality is reflected in the price. Yeah, AC is a nice bang for the buck, but l still prefer HWL when I can afford it


----------



## pc-illiterate

@morencyam im pretty sure he was being sarcastic. no one would call hl rads second rate...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> @morencyam im pretty sure he was being sarcastic. no one would call hl rads second rate...


I sure hope so lol sarcasm is hard to pick up on over text sometimes


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Nah man, black ice sucks compared to alphacool


Build quality is significantly higher on HWLabs rads.

As for low speed fans we are talking less than 1C water temp difference on a 360. People put way too much money on statistics that don't transfer to the real world.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Nah man, black ice sucks compared to alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to have to disagree. I've had an ST30 and currently have a BI GTX480 and the BI feels like much higher quality than the ST30 did. The only advantage the ST30 had over the BI was the screw guards. Granted the ST30 was only a 120mm, but it just felt cheaper than the GTX does. HWL/BI has always been one of the top radiator manufacturers, the quality is reflected in the price. Yeah, AC is a nice bang for the buck, but l still prefer HWL when I can afford it
Click to expand...

This.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Nah man, black ice sucks compared to alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have PK3, works great. Pretty much the same performance as PK2.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Nah man, black ice sucks compared to alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Build quality is significantly higher on HWLabs rads.
> 
> As for low speed fans we are talking less than 1C water temp difference on a 360. *People put way too much money on statistics that don't transfer to the real world.*
Click to expand...

And this.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Build quality is significantly higher on HWLabs rads.
> 
> *As for low speed fans we are talking less than 1C water temp difference on a 360. People put way too much money on statistics that don't transfer to the real world.*


THIS!
Just going by Martin's radiator testing roundup, at 1000RPM, there is only a 9W difference is heat dissipation between the top 10 radiators. I'm not really sure what that would translate to in difference in CPU temps, but I'd be willing to bet that you'd see *maybe* a 1C difference between rads 1 and 10, if that, given all other factors are the same


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Nah man, black ice sucks compared to alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have PK3, works great. Pretty much the same performance as PK2.


It sucks alright.. sucks all the heat out of the water


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> THIS!
> Just going by Martin's radiator testing roundup, at 1000RPM, there is only a 9W difference is heat dissipation between the top 10 radiators. I'm not really sure what that would translate to in difference in CPU temps, but I'd be willing to bet that you'd see *maybe* a 1C difference between rads 1 and 10, if that, given all other factors are the same


This makes me really happy. Because I bought a HL GT stealth because someone was saying it would be better with me GT 15s than the AC UT30. Then someone told me that I should have gone with the UT30 and I was getting real buyers remorse. But I can live with 1C delta between the two rads.


----------



## Neo Zuko

of course they are better, they have a WHOLE "lab" to make "hardware" in!! SR1s for the win


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Well that's exactly why I think HWLabs sucks. Their stuff costs stupid expensive for a minimal performance gain over the Alphacool not to mention over half their stuff is high FPI that doesn't work well with low rpm fans.

You could give me a beat up ass radiator but if it performs better than everything else out there, I'll take it. Function over form.

And 15goudreau, I told you that you would see minimal gains by switching to new fans/radiators :|


----------



## Neo Zuko

But its made like a fine Swiss watch, surely not everything is about performance graphs and numbers...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Well that's exactly why I think HWLabs sucks. Their stuff costs stupid expensive for a minimal performance gain over the Alphacool not to mention over half their stuff is high FPI that doesn't work well with low rpm fans.
> 
> You could give me a beat up ass radiator but if it performs better than everything else out there, I'll take it. Function over form.
> 
> And 15goudreau, I told you that you would see minimal gains by switching to new fans/radiators :|


That doesn't mean they suck. The price is higher because of the higher quality. And higher FPI also has it's place. I plan on running around 1200RPM with my GTX480, but with push-pull, so high RPM isn't needed as much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> But its made like a fine Swiss watch, surely not everything is about performance graphs and numbers...


I agree. I generally go for quality over price when budget allows. It's like buying a Rolex over a Timex. Yes, they both tell time as well as the other, but the Rolex is better quality, and that's what you're paying for when you buy a HWL


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Well that's exactly why I think HWLabs sucks. Their stuff costs stupid expensive for a minimal performance gain over the Alphacool not to mention over half their stuff is high FPI that doesn't work well with low rpm fans.
> 
> You could give me a beat up ass radiator but if it performs better than everything else out there, I'll take it. Function over form.
> 
> And 15goudreau, I told you that you would see minimal gains by switching to new fans/radiators :|


I know, I'm not saying your advice was wrong. I just helps to see more people say the same thing. I'm not trying to say your information was invalid. Sorry if it came off that way


----------



## wermad

HL does make some really nice items. That extra money does go into the materials and fit-n-finish. I've owned a few Alpha and HL rads and hands down HL makes them better. Still, I pay for the lower cost and better performance of Alpha since I don't have form as my priority (over function).


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Well that's exactly why I think HWLabs sucks. Their stuff costs stupid expensive for a minimal performance gain over the Alphacool not to mention over half their stuff is high FPI that doesn't work well with low rpm fans.
> 
> You could give me a beat up ass radiator but if it performs better than everything else out there, I'll take it. Function over form.
> 
> And 15goudreau, I told you that you would see minimal gains by switching to new fans/radiators :|


Ok, aside from your poor choice of words ("sucks" being attributed to something you have an unvetted opinion about), the BUILD QUALITY on Black Ice radiators makes A-Cool look like, well, A-Cool.
Their products exude a beauty, and _very_ few other companies can (or even bother to try to) do the same thing.

As for performance, the other folks covered all of that.

If you're replacing, the gains might not make it worth it unless you're just into burning benjamins and giving a Bald Eagle it's wings, but if it's your first radiators in a build, go for the good ones before you regret it.

Thanks - T

P.S.

For reference...

[SPOILER='MURICA][/SPOILER]


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> This makes me really happy. Because I bought a HL GT stealth because someone was saying it would be better with me GT 15s than the AC UT30. Then someone told me that I should have gone with the UT30 and I was getting real buyers remorse. But I can live with 1C delta between the two rads.


You're going to like your GT Stealth. They work well at 1200 RPM.


----------



## brazilianloser

To each their own...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah blew part of my return on my 8350, V850, crucial 8gb (2x4gb) ddr3 1600, Kingston 120 SSD , and some extra fittings lol (for two rigs)


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah blew part of my return on my 8350, V850, crucial 8gb (2x4gb) ddr3 1600, Kingston 120 SSD , and some extra fittings lol (for two rigs)


Good purchase !


----------



## Archea47

You guys got me all excited about this HWLabs GTX as a potential improvement over my UT60 and then I found this over @ martin's:



I use 3k not 2.2k fans, but it doesn't look like the GTX is going to pass up the UT. Is that HWLabs GTX the same as this "Black Ice GTX" that we're discussing?


----------



## wermad

Quads went back in. Psu still pending rma







.




Got a healthy tax return, it sucks this mining craze has caused 290X to almost double. guess I'll buy a new tv then









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> You guys got me all excited about this
> I use 3k not 2.2k fans, but it doesn't look like the GTX is going to pass up the UT. Is that HWLabs GTX the same as this "Black Ice GTX" that we're discussing?


Yup, Black Ice is the name of their radiator lineup. Also, Danger Den had the same rads branded under their name (entry and mid level rads).


----------



## DarthBaggins

The other part I would have rather spent on goodies for myself but having nearly paid off credit cards is a good thing lol
Next return I'm getting my gtx780 lol


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> You guys got me all excited about this HWLabs GTX as a potential improvement over my UT60 and then I found this over @ martin's:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use 3k not 2.2k fans, but it doesn't look like the GTX is going to pass up the UT. Is that HWLabs GTX the same as this "Black Ice GTX" that we're discussing?


Yup, the two are one in the same
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quads went back in. Psu still pending rma
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a healthy tax return, it sucks this mining craze has caused 290X to almost double. guess I'll buy a new tv then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, Black Ice is the name of their radiator lineup. Also, Danger Den had the same rads branded under their name (entry and mid level rads).


Looks real nice wermad








Now if only you were able to change the blue Lightening bubble thing to match the green of the rest of the loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Looks real nice wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only you were able to change the blue Lightening bubble thing to match the green of the rest of the loop.


There's the Creative Labs Z sound card at the bottom w/ red led's







. I really don't wanna mess with the gpu(s) since I still have warranty.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quads went back in. Psu still pending rma
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a healthy tax return, it sucks this mining craze has caused 290X to almost double. guess I'll buy a new tv then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, Black Ice is the name of their radiator lineup. Also, Danger Den had the same rads branded under their name (entry and mid level rads).


Sexy. I really hate all this mining business. I bought my 7950 luckily two years ago when the price was starting to drop. Got it for 300, now I see it sells for like 300 used...


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I should probably get the ek block for my 7870 before it gets phased out, well if they're going to just wish they would have made them of the r9 270x's too


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's the Creative Labs Z sound card at the bottom w/ red led's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I really don't wanna mess with the gpu(s) since I still have warranty.


Yeah, I'd keep the warranty intact as well. I've never really cared much for the Lightnings because of that bubble. I think it looks a little corny.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yeah, I'd keep the warranty intact as well. I've never really cared much for the Lightnings because of that bubble. I think it looks a little corny.


I think its to protect that small pcb that inserts on the back. I haven't really delved too much into them since its been an ongoing battle to get this (or any build) finished







. The blue led debug don't help either







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Sexy. I really hate all this mining business. I bought my 7950 luckily two years ago when the price was starting to drop. Got it for 300, now I see it sells for like 300 used...


I'm quite happy w/ the 7970s though I would have jumped on 290Xs easily had it not been for this mining craze. Well, I guess pc gaming is coming to end. Might as well buy a console


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Nah man, black ice sucks compared to alphacool


Have to ask, have you ever owned a HWL Black Ice or are you just saying that based on statistics/price?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think its to protect that small pcb that inserts on the back. I haven't really delved too much into them since its been an ongoing battle to get this (or any build) finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The blue led debug don't help either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


How dare they throw off your green theme.
Quote:


> *Might as well buy a console*


BLASPHEMY!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As high as possible, to help bleed the air out. Also, don't push on it with the pump running lol
> 
> Having it at the fill port won't do a whole lot of good though, incorporate it into the loop using a T-splitter or something similar. Use a passive air pass through such as the Aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane on the fill port instead.


Actually, I have the perfect place for it... I bought a 5 way Q connector to replace the Bitspower one I have for my fill port, so I'll use one of the side ports (where the logo is in this picture) to put the valve.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2000.jpg.html


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ever since I got back into PCs ( a year ago) my consoles have collected dust. .


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Ever since I got back into PCs ( a year ago) my consoles have collected dust. .


I let my friend borrow my Xbox 360 when his got the RROD two years ago and have never gotten it back lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol probably a good thing, other than I'd like to water cool my ps4


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Actually, I have the perfect place for it... I bought a 5 way Q connector to replace the Bitspower one I have for my fill port, so I'll use one of the side ports (where the logo is in this picture) to put the valve.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2000.jpg.html


Sounds good, it was very helpful bleeding out my loop and I hope it helps you too


----------



## wermad

Had some of my tax refund planned for quad Hawaiis but its not going to happen w/ today's inflated prices.

I think its time to shelve my fat ps3 (along side my slim ps2) and get a ps4 and a 120hz hdtv. I have a few bd movies I'd like to see in 120hz as my old 42" is getting long on the tooth







.

May get some new fittings in black.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Had some of my tax refund planned for quad Hawaiis but its not going to happen w/ today's inflated prices.
> 
> I think its time to shelve my fat ps3 (along side my slim ps2) and get a ps4 and a 120hz hdtv. I have a few bd movies I'd like to see in 120hz as my old 42" is getting long on the tooth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> May get some new fittings in black.


I don't mean to be rude but I know of several online retailers that have R9 series cards for well under the inflated prices. You just have to know where to look









Like I'm getting ready to order a couple R9 290's reference cooler's for $415 each. And it's NOT from LDC









Jeffinslaw


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quads went back in. Psu still pending rma
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a healthy tax return, it sucks this mining craze has caused 290X to almost double. guess I'll buy a new tv then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, Black Ice is the name of their radiator lineup. Also, Danger Den had the same rads branded under their name (entry and mid level rads).


I really like the look of the smaller tubing even in that huge case. I went to 3/8 x 1/2 and love the size(as long as I don't have to do tight bends). oh, and I went with phony-a's(Phobya) compression fittings as well. I feel good with them just not their rotary fittings. at $3-4 each, it's worth the savings to me. well done on the new old new build.

edit for spelling


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I don't mean to be rude but I know of several online retailers that have R9 series cards for well under the inflated prices. You just have to know where to look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I'm getting ready to order a couple R9 290's reference cooler's for $415 each. And it's NOT from LDC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Good to know Jeff







. $415 for 290s is awesome!!!! I'll do some research but I have to runs it by the boss first







. Still, 290X epeen is still expensive







. Any thoughts if these can unlock to Xs?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> I really like the look of the smaller tubing even in that huge case. I went to 3/8 x 1/2 and love the size(as long as I don't have to do tight bends). oh, and I went with phony-a's(Phobya) compression fittings as well. I feel good with them just not their rotary fittings. at $3-4 each, it's worth the savings to me. well done on the new old new build.
> 
> edit for spelling


I did use 3/8x1/2 before but back then, tube was softer and easily kinked. With today's newer tube, the stiffness added to them helps w/ bends even though this is thinner walled tube. Phobya fittings are really inexpensive and as long as you stick w/ these and avoid rotaries, as you mentioned, you're fine. These were actually very tight to fit the tube on (10mm barb) so a dab of silicone grease helps. the cap went on very good. It makes them a winner in my book if you're looking for inexpensive fittings. Not sure why there's a $2 premium on the black painted version. The nickel version isn't as shiny as most others so its good for those looking for a more restrained shine. Other then that, black-nickel is still pretty acceptable to moi


----------



## 15goudreau

I'd skip the silicone grease and just heat the tubes up under hot water. Does the same thing and then you don't have to worry about it contaminating your loop!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I'd skip the silicone grease and just heat the tubes up under hot water. Does the same thing and then you don't have to worry about it contaminating your loop!


Don't work when you need to pull the tube off







. Silicone grease is used in many plumbing applications including drinking water filters. So if its safe for that, there shouldn't be issues with a loop


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't work when you need to pull the tube off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Silicone grease is used in many plumbing applications including drinking water filters. So if its safe for that, there shouldn't be issues with a loop


Oh well for that I just hold a lighter to it till it melts





















.

Well if you can ingest it why not!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good to know Jeff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . $415 for 290s is awesome!!!! I'll do some research but I have to runs it by the boss first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still, 290X epeen is still expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Any thoughts if these can unlock to Xs?


Not sure. If you don't mind Visiontek, you can get 290X's for $565









Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Oh well for that I just hold a lighter to it till it melts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Well if you can ingest it why not!


Just a small swipe using a cotton-swab inside the tube and a bit on the barb. You don't wanna cake it tbh just enough to lubricate. My GE RO filter's come w/ a little silicone packet to lube the o-rings. I've been using silicone grease for a while after someone recommended it to hold down the gpu's block o-ring as they can get finicky to put back on. You can find some at your local hardware store. Homes has them in the spare parts section of the plumbing area.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Not sure. If you don't mind Visiontek, you can get 290X's for $565
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Good to know







. Pm a link of the site if you don't mind







.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Pm a link of the site if you don't mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


PM'd!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't work when you need to pull the tube off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Silicone grease is used in many plumbing applications including drinking water filters. So if its safe for that, there shouldn't be issues with a loop


....Cut it off?

Do you want the distinct ability to remove and replace, without eating into material cost?

If not, then just discard when you remove, and cut new lines!

Thanks - T


----------



## WonderMutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> ....Cut it off?
> 
> Do you want the distinct ability to remove and replace, without eating into material cost?
> 
> If not, then just discard when you remove, and cut new lines!
> 
> Thanks - T


This. With the price of tubing, I never reuse, I always cut new tubing when I change my loop.


----------



## wermad

$25 +shipping for a roll of advance vs $3 for some silicone grease. Not a tough choice for me









Edit: I haven't heard of this causing a reaction. I've used this on copper, nickel, and ss parts for a while now. If you'll wanna chop up your tube just to replace it, be my guests


----------



## zmegati

Is this something new from EKWB?


----------



## VSG

Ooh I like that first one, nice silver/black contrast. I don't think I saw that top before.


----------



## WiSK

The square D5 top is from last year, but the glossy pump cover is new I think.


----------



## PinzaC55

A last look at my baby before she gets a new arrival tomorrow


----------



## zmegati

Yes i knowe the square D5 top i aalready have but pump covers I saw just now...but a have another problem, I need to buy two rad 240 and most cheaply is EKWB but they do not have EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual)





















for more than a week.

Pinza that looks great


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> A last look at my baby before she gets a new arrival tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So your other 690 arrives today....?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> Have to ask, have you ever owned a HWL Black Ice or are you just saying that based on statistics/price?


I have an SR1 360, SR1 560, and a SR1 280. All of which have perfect fins with no solder blobs.


----------



## PinzaC55

No, I have had it nearly 2 weeks but partly I have been busy with other stuff and I made the foolish mistake of ordering an essential part (Bitspower 21-31mm adapter) from an established UK supplier and it has taken a week to get from Manchester to York, then when it finally arrived today I was at work so I have to go to the sorting office to pick it up. Needless to say they won't be seeing any more of my money


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Is this something new from EKWB?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, they just posted it 4 hours ago on facebook.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> No, I have had it nearly 2 weeks but partly I have been busy with other stuff and I made the foolish mistake of ordering an essential part (Bitspower 21-31mm adapter) from an established UK supplier and it has taken a week to get from Manchester to York, then when it finally arrived today I was at work so I have to go to the sorting office to pick it up. Needless to say they won't be seeing any more of my money










EK block looks good on them Kepler*s*


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Yes i knowe the square D5 top i aalready have but pump covers I saw just now...but a have another problem, I need to buy two rad 240 and most cheaply is EKWB but they do not have EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for more than a week.


Rumour was that there was a disagreement with the manufacturer that made the CoolStream PE, so maybe it will never be back in stock.


----------



## szeged

Just when I thought ek was done taking my money......


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK block looks good on them Kepler*s*


I got lucky and it popped up on Ebay already watercooled as the guy was going for a pair of Titans instead and I got it cheaper than a stock Used 690 as it's one of the peculiarities of Ebay that watercooled components find it hard to sell* - too specialised I guess? I got the other EK block + backplate "New Other" unused, total value £123 for just £10.50 as the guy who sold it had bought it then bottled out of installing it lolz!
Incidentally there's a Bitspower 250 inline res on ebay UK got one day to go and it's just £5 at the moment - it's not mine in case anyone thinks I am advertising!


----------



## ozzy1925

as we talk about radiators, let me show you my alphacool fins :


as you see some fins are higher than others is that normal?


----------



## VSG

Alphacool doesn't have the best QC but that shouldn't hurt much, if at all. The active surface area change from the additional height/lowered depth will average out for most radiators.


----------



## szeged

All of my monsta 480s have different height fin rows, I just assumed it was normal for alphacool to have next to no quality control


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Alphacool doesn't have the best QC but that shouldn't hurt much, if at all. The active surface area change from the additional height/lowered depth will average out for most radiators.


there are no bent fins but this, you think that will affect the cooling performance?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> there are no bent fins but this, you think that will affect the cooling performance?


Not at all.


----------



## VSG

Don't worry too much about it, if at all it will be a negligible difference compared to if they were all the same height.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> All of my monsta 480s have different height fin rows, I just assumed it was normal for alphacool to have next to no quality control


i tought alphacool is a reliable brand







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Not at all.


your monstas have the same issue ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't worry too much about it, if at all it will be a negligible difference compared to if they were all the same height.


i bought it from frozen and told them to inspect the fins before sending to me ...


----------



## VSG

I doubt they even opened it up to check, but even if they did they might have just checked for bent fins. I never even bothered to check for fin height mismatch.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I doubt they even opened it up to check, but even if they did they might have just checked for bent fins. I never even bothered to check for fin height mismatch.


yea,i think they never checked


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> as we talk about radiators, let me show you my alphacool fins :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you see some fins are higher than others is that normal?


should be 100% non-issue.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i tought alphacool is a reliable brand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> your monstas have the same issue ?
> i bought it from frozen and told them to inspect the fins before sending to me ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> there are no bent fins but this, you think that will affect the cooling performance?


I'll check mine when i get home And post pics. First rad arrived with bent fins, second rad arrived perfect. Take that back, the second rad arrived with a huge dent, PPC then sent me a replacement which was in perfect shape.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Anyone Pumping Coolant on this level?

Super quiet sump style pump pulling 230 Watts @ 220Volts, 80L a minute, with a 7 meter head. All in a nice container under my desk.


----------



## VSG

Could you show us how you connect it to tubing/fittings? 80 LPH is not a whole lot, pumps we use chug out 1 GPM easy which is around 230 LPH. That pressure head is nice though!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Anyone Pumping Coolant on this level?
> 
> Super quiet sump style pump pulling 230 Watts @ 220Volts, *80L a minute*, with a 7 meter head. All in a nice container under my desk.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Could you show us how you connect it to tubing/fittings? *80 LPH* is not a whole lot, pumps we use chug out 1 GPM easy which is around 230 LPH. That pressure head is nice though!


See what I did there?


----------



## VSG

I could have sworn I saw 80 LPH in his post, never mind then


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Could you show us how you connect it to tubing/fittings? 80 LPH is not a whole lot, pumps we use chug out 1 GPM easy which is around 230 LPH. That pressure head is nice though!


Sure and it's 80L per Minute not per hour. I'm still working on this build it's pushing two 1/2" loops in parallel.





































Build Log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1467197/mccsolution-simple-desk-build-gigabyte-g1-sniper-5-delidded-intel-17-4770k-green-theme-nvidia-gtx-660-custom-parralel-wc


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I could have sworn I saw 80 LPH in his post, never mind then


You did, I put that first on accident then I went back and corrected it! Lol


----------



## VSG

That's ok, don't worry about it. Thanks for the pics- do you notice overpressure buildup in the loop? I know radiator companies suggest not using a high force water flow through the rads, but I do not know if 80 LPM is too high for that. Unsure about blocks as well but perhaps @derickwm could find out and let us know?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's ok, don't worry about it. Thanks for the pics- do you notice overpressure buildup in the loop? I know radiator companies suggest not using a high force water flow through the rads, but I do not know if 80 LPM is too high for that. Unsure about blocks as well but perhaps @derickwm could find out and let us know?


Yep already tested it! @110 volts (half speed) it's around 2PSI and with full voltage it's 4~5PSI and the blocks are holding up well! I had a similar setup with one of my last builds "FATAL" and I deliberately pushed 50PSI to three XSPC 360mm RADs and they held fine! But I also don't have to worry about that with this build because I'm using industrial high flow heater cores instead of regular WE RADs!


----------



## VSG

2 psi is not bad at all, very nice!

I need to see this build, do you have a log somewhere? Sounds like something I can relate to myself.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Yep! Direct your attention below at my signature area, I have my three most recent builds listed....


----------



## VSG

Just saw that, great work. I especially loved the water bottle reservoir. It was apparent how much work went into it as well


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just saw that, great work. I especially loved the water bottle reservoir. It was apparent how much work went into it as well


Thanks! That build got me a lot of free stuff and put me in the running for OCN MOTM a few times. Believe it or not I sold that whole build down to the bottle it's self lol. The Simple Desk Build I'm working on now is ironic because it has become anything but simple lol.... That's the build the pump pictured is for.


----------



## derickwm

80 LPM... jeez. That's silly, but cool.

Sorry guys that I've been away. Things have been hectic with the LDC incident that I'm sure most of you have heard about by now. If I missed anyone's questions please report them or PM me.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Anyone Pumping Coolant on this level?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Super quiet sump style pump pulling 230 Watts @ 220Volts, 80L a minute, with a 7 meter head. All in a nice container under my desk.


I use something like this to flush my system & components!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 80 LPM... jeez. That's silly, but cool.


Agreed to the utmost. I laughed outloud and had to tell my girlfriend









Back to the topic of silicone on fittings ... interesting idea. I've been using a razor blade to cut Advance LRT off my fittings - being able to pull them off would be a treat! On the flip side though I''m a bit paranoid already about additives after finding gunk in my block microchannels (going to follow Jimhans1's advice next tear down and run some scalding water through the alphacools).


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Anyone Pumping Coolant on this level?


Yes... Used in combination with a 590mm rad (meant for semi- transmission cooling) for cooling my 500Gallon Koi pond in the summer (Located in the desert)


----------



## stickg1

Next time I post a picture of my build it will be in a Case Labs case.









Changing motherboards too, too bad I JUST got down sleeving my PSU with YELLOW, lol. Oh well, see you guys in a week or two.


----------



## wermad

Keep the yellow, its smexy


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 80 LPM... jeez. That's silly, but cool.


Pretty Much sums up what I do!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I use something like this to flush my system & components!


I usually take all the blocks apart and clean them with a pine solution similar to the Artic Silver cleaner. Works great with copper (my favorite kind of block) and then I use a alcohol based product to clean off the left over pine oil and/or residue. Typically this us a semiannual thing for me since I use in line filters.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Yes... Used in combination with a 590mm rad (meant for semi- transmission cooling) for cooling my 500Gallon Koi pond in the summer (Located in the desert)


Reminds me of the active fish tank, aqua coolers we used in the P4 era before liquid cooling was popular. Back then there was only crappy 1/4" cooling solutions for PC. Had to be creative.... But I suppose I have carried that on to the modern age as well with my out of the box type cooling setups.....


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Keep the yellow, its smexy


Yellow and red McDonald's theme! I call it, McStickald's!

IDK what I'm doing yet, I'll reuse some of the stuff, well I can't really afford not to, unless of course I prolong the build , sell off some more parts, and acquire the funds to completely revamp the whole thing. I was tired of the Fractal Arc Midi since before I even finished my current build, so it's my fault for trying to just work through it anyway. I was never going to be fully satisfied.

I probably won't ditch the $300 worth of shining silver fittings. I sleep with them at night.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yellow and red McDonald's theme! I call it, McStickald's!


Funny you should mention the yellow and red theme....
as I'm considering a retro looking build with modern parts using red, yellow and black.
Yellow coolant in clear acrylic based around an ASUS ROG board.
The retro theme came to mind when making a short male / male adapter for a bit of cable testing recently.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Funny you should mention the yellow and red theme....
> as I'm considering a retro looking build with modern parts using red, yellow and black.
> Yellow coolant in clear acrylic based around an ASUS ROG board.
> The retro theme came to mind when making a short male / male adapter for a bit of cable testing recently.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Funny you should mention the yellow and red theme....
> as I'm considering a retro looking build with modern parts using red, yellow and black.
> Yellow coolant in clear acrylic based around an ASUS ROG board.
> The retro theme came to mind when making a short male / male adapter for a bit of cable testing recently.


If your going retro you got to change the connectors to colored as well. Like the old green and orange molex connectors of the 90's!


----------



## stickg1

That actually looks really cool. And the board I want is an ROG board too. But you already have the cable made! I'll have to come up with something else.

I do have a bunch of yellow pastel and purple X1 though. It would be nice to get to use it! We'll see, with my fickle mind the build will have been redrawn by this time next week.


----------



## Gunderman456

Couldn't a heat gun also work to remove tubing from fittings?


----------



## wermad

Vote for this case in retro theme:


----------



## Neo Zuko

The beige days are better left far behind. Like it never happened. Unless you are building a 486.


----------



## VSG

Come on though that 900D in beige looks great!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Come on though that 900D in beige looks great!


I agree. But maybe with some wood grain or at least chrome accent. Besides all the power buttons were chrome back then so why not!


----------



## wermad

Retro items:


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Couldn't a heat gun also work to remove tubing from fittings?


Absolutely 100% but one easy method most people don't think to try with ribbed or barbed compression fittings is usually if you actually press the hose inward(like putting it on) then try to pull, pinch or spin it off it usually works like a charm! Kinda funny....


----------



## sinnedone

Hey now, there aint nothing wrong with beige.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hey now, there aint nothing wrong with beige.


Woot Carbon Retro!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Vote for this case in retro theme:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Hey I remember that sleeper build on MOTM last year!


----------



## hoevito

First time watercooler here and it just also happens to be my very first ever pc build as well. My build is nowhere near as nice as some of you guys', but I've added additional eye candy into the photos to make mine stand out amongst the crowd here lol...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

...I'm getting there. Almost done with the loop.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2089.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

Whoa.


----------



## bomberjun




----------



## nathanblandford

Just finished modding my 750D to make the bay covers for the sides and my Blu-Ray drive (hidden)


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: warning spoiler alert!


i love the straight runs of acrylic(?) tubing and how that makes it look like the insides of your pc are moving


----------



## xlastshotx

Here mine, best loop ever.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*
> 
> Here mine, best loop ever.


Lol, dear God, it's the Borg.........


----------



## bomberjun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> i love the straight runs of acrylic(?) tubing and how that makes it look like the insides of your pc are moving


Thanks man! Yes, I used full acrylic tubings in this rebuild, no rubber even on the inside (5.25 bay) where the cpu loop circulates. The flow can't be seen but you can feel the vibration of the tubings.


----------



## xlastshotx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, dear God, it's the Borg.........


I gave up awhile ago, almost every part in my computer now is over five years old. It works the way it is rite now, not worth spending time on it anymore. The current config makes it really easy to maintain it, its just ugly but it works great.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*
> 
> I gave up awhile ago, almost every part in my computer now is over five years old. It works the way it is rite now, not worth spending time on it anymore. The current config makes it really easy to maintain it, its just ugly but it works great.


I wasn't mocking it, I just said the first thing that it reminded me of.

See^^^^^^


----------



## xlastshotx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I wasn't mocking it, I just said the first thing that it reminded me of.
> 
> See^^^^^^


lol. I am pretty sure the Rate my cables thread will really like it


----------



## szeged

got my ek 780 classy block cleaned out, reassembled and put back on the kingpin for now, its coming back off tomorrow because i got some fujipoly ultra extreme thermal pads coming in


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Vote for this case in retro theme:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*
> 
> Here mine, best loop ever.


Werm,that was Corsairs April fools for last year....

xlastshotx..........Take yourself to the Man and explain that horror you have graced this thread with....


----------



## ReXtN

It's not how it looks now, but i don't have any pictures of the new loop config..


----------



## zmegati

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Rumour was that there was a disagreement with the manufacturer that made the CoolStream PE, so maybe it will never be back in stock.


Does anyone have a suggestion or tip for some good quality RAD 240???


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> ubbish
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion or tip for some good quality RAD 240???


black ice sr1 240mm, they seem to have the best quality from what ive seen, though i usually go with alphacool monsta rads for my case.


----------



## zmegati

You talked about this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9431/ex-rad-162/Black_Ice_SR1_Low_Air_Flow_Optimized_-_240_Radiator_-_Black.html#blank


----------



## szeged

yep thats the one.


----------



## zmegati

ut how is this possible...how high is postage!!!!


----------



## szeged

O.O wow that shipping cost!!!

i dont know how much it would costs from other places, but man that shipping cost hurts


----------



## deafboy

International shipping always sucks


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> International shipping always sucks


Damn right, that's why I never bought at Frozen or perfPC, I've always tried to find a reseller in my country, now that I found some for watercooling part, I'll stick to them unless they haven't what I'm looking for.


----------



## zmegati

I know, for 1 Rad shiping cost is "only" 47$...because I prefer EKWB they shiping cost is max 12-15 $

So now I'm thinking to prder EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240) until they still have in stock.

Is that RAD ok quality?


----------



## zmegati

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Damn right, that's why I never bought at Frozen or perfPC, I've always tried to find a reseller in my country, now that I found some for watercooling part, I'll stick to them unless they haven't what I'm looking for.


In my country there are no shops with parts for water cooling!!!

IM ASHAMED TO TELL YOU TO LIVE IN CROATIEN!!!


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Vote for this case in retro theme:


You kids with your 900D's are so cute.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> In my country there are no shops with parts for water cooling!!!
> 
> IM ASHAMED TO TELL YOU TO LIVE IN CROATIEN!!!


Don't be ashamed lol.
There must be european shop that will charge cheaper than the commonly known US shop.
Or maybe with the coupon for frozen/PerfPC the price are still good and compensate the shipping fee (I don't remember which one has a code for OCN member since I've never bought from them, must ask someone else for the info).


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> You kids with your 900D's are so cute.


Lol well I personally would like to go Case Labs on my next build, but love my C70 right now


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol well I personally would like to go Case Labs on my next build, but love my C70 right now


Just recently bought a c70 for my mining rig, have to say it is a solid case coming from a caselabs owner. I hate plastic case even more now


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> In my country there are no shops with parts for water cooling!!!
> 
> IM ASHAMED TO TELL YOU TO LIVE IN CROATIEN!!!


DUDE! Do not order from the US if you live in Europe. Although there might not be any watercooling shops in your country, there are definitely watercooling shops in Europe. Intercontinental shipping is madness and you'll also need to pay import fees/taxes upon arrival.

Good European WC shops:
Highflow
Aquatuning
WatercoolingUK
Chilled PC
EKWB
SpecialTech

Etc, etc; Google is your friend.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> DUDE! Do not order from the US if you live in Europe. Although there might not be any watercooling shops in your country, there are definitely watercooling shops in Europe. Intercontinental shipping is madness and you'll also need to pay import fees/taxes upon arrival.
> 
> Good European WC shops:
> Highflow
> Aquatuning
> WatercoolingUK
> Chilled PC
> EKWB
> SpecialTech
> 
> Etc, etc; Google is your friend.


Im getting a package shipped from the US tomorrow,
Im using a company that takes cares of the taxes/fees.. plus they gave me 50 dollars off for first time use. + the valentine 7.5% discount from PPC
The order (after 7.5% PPC discount) was 275 dollars, and I end up paying 50-100dollars (after 50 dollar first time use discount) for shipping/taxes from the states to Denmark (Europe)
Only thing im worried about, is if my acrylic tube is still intact when it gets here -_-

First time I order anything from the states







It can be done without too many problems. but I wouldn't recommend this route if you can find the items you want in the EU,
I couldn't


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> DUDE! Do not order from the US if you live in Europe. Although there might not be any watercooling shops in your country, there are definitely watercooling shops in Europe. Intercontinental shipping is madness and you'll also need to pay import fees/taxes upon arrival.
> 
> Good European WC shops:
> Highflow
> Aquatuning
> WatercoolingUK
> Chilled PC
> EKWB
> SpecialTech
> 
> Etc, etc; Google is your friend.


^^THIS^^ I don't know about France but in the UK we pay VAT (Value Added Tax) at 20% on practically everything and they seem to have arranged it so that Import Duty etc makes importing an item from the States the same final price as buying it here. I once worked out that if I wanted to buy something like an Alienware lappy I might as well fly to the States, buy it and sneak it back through customs. Best UK supplier in delivery terms is Scan - I got my PSU with free P&P, next day delivery and several emails including the exact time it would be delivered!
Anyway, I just made the big change -
Bleeding

Stripping

Filled and ready to rock


----------



## sinnedone

Does anyone have any experience with the bitspower clear ddc pump top? I was planning on getting the xspc clear top but its latest revision has an extra inlet port at the rear that I personally think looks butt ugly. Especially the way Im planning on mounting the pump which would be highly visible and more of a build feature that's to be looked at.

So now I'm down to either the clear bistpower ddc top or the ek rev 2 clear top (which I believe is being phased out in favor of the csq model)

While I'm mainly looking at aesthetics here I don't want to get a poor performing top either and it seems there's no info that I can find on the bitspower top. Does anyone have any experiences with it or can point me towards some reviews/comparisons that include the bitspower model?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol well I personally would like to go Case Labs on my next build, but love my C70 right now


It baffles me why people who've never had a CaseLabs chassis think the 900D is so great. I've just kept hearing "it's so modular" or "there's so much expansion". Get any CL case and you'll think differently.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> It baffles me why people who've never had a CaseLabs chassis think the 900D is so great. I've just kept hearing "it's so modular" or "there's so much expansion". Get any CL case and you'll think differently.


Thank you.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

All the 240 rads will pretty much perform the same.

And wait what??? 7.5% coupon code to PPCS?


----------



## 15goudreau

I don't know about 7.5% but OCN55 get's you 5%


----------



## VSG

PPC and FCPU have holiday specials where you get higher % discounts depending on the amount spent.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Ahh. Yea my order was only like 50 bucks.

OCN55 almost wipes out instate tax for me.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Werm,that was Corsairs April fools for last year....


Yup, old shop'd 900D























big give away is the floppy drive. The 900D would actually center the drive not to the side since the chassis is there.


----------



## Michalius

Progress shot on a friend's build:



All the blocks are powdercoated to the same color as the case's interior.

This pic captures the color most accurately for what you see in person:


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Progress shot on a friend's build:
> 
> 
> 
> All the blocks are powdercoated to the same color as the case's interior.
> 
> This pic captures the color most accurately for what you see in person:


That's super nice looking. Good powder coating!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Here are the fins of my first alphacool rad.





The damage is pure cosmetic, but it is disturbing to see that many bent fins right out of the box.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> I know, for 1 Rad shiping cost is "only" 47$...because I prefer EKWB they shiping cost is max 12-15 $
> 
> So now I'm thinking to prder EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240) until they still have in stock.
> 
> Is that RAD ok quality?


I feel that the XTX are a great radiator, they are one of my favorites. Look great, work great. Never had an issue with one yet!!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

LEDs are in place.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That's FrozenCPUs fault. They can easily deny the request. I would also ask them to do the same if it would save me money.
> 
> Not to mention this PC water cooling stuff is overpriced big time.


As it's already been removed by the Mods I would suggest we end discussing it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Werm,that was Corsairs April fools for last year....
> 
> xlastshotx..........Take yourself to the Man and explain that horror you have graced this thread with....


Tubing like that belongs in the retro build for sure


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Here are the fins of my first alphacool rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The damage is pure cosmetic, but it is disturbing to see that many bent fins right out of the box.


I'm so OCD that would drive me crazy.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> I'm so OCD that would drive me crazy.


I don't really care, just glad the rad performs amazing well.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I don't really care, just glad the rad performs amazing well.


Exactly how I feel. I don't care about looks, just gimme dat performance. How many people are actually going to see the radiator anyways.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Exactly how I feel. I don't care about looks, just gimme dat performance. How many people are actually going to see the radiator anyways.


....Everyone, especially given the proliferation of windows in cases these days...









And unless you go to specific lengths to conceal the radiators, they will be visible.

IMO, the appearance (at this level of product) is _just as crucial_ as the performance, but always come secondary.

In other words, chose it for the numbers, buy it because it looks good, and be happy on both fronts!

We don't put build logs up - with pictures mind you - to keep our good lookin' rigs a secret!









Thanks - T


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

First time I opened a new 480 monsta alphacool rad and pulled it out of the bubble wrap I dropped the little box that it comes with that holds the screws, stop plugs, etc right onto the brand new rad. The rad fins are such a thin foil that the tiny little box dropped from a few cm above it crushed / folded over & completely blocked up a ~12x5cm section of the fins, and damaged a few fins here and there elsewhere.

I just took the tip of a hobby knife and a toothpick and in a couple minutes straightened them up so that it was nearly impossible to tell which ones were ever damaged at all. Only on just a couple fins now does the copper shine through where there originally was the misting of black paint that Alphacool puts on them that you can tell they are any different than any other fin anywhere on the rad, but that's neither here nor there though after I put fans on in push-pull none of it is visible any more in any case.


----------



## Archea47

For what it's worth my three alphacool rads didn't come with any bent fins. Just another data point. A 280 ST30, a 240 UT60 and a 120 ST30. Purchased from frozencpu


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Exactly how I feel. I don't care about looks, just gimme dat performance. How many people are actually going to see the radiator anyways.


To a certain degree, I care. In case of fins that will remain hidden by fans and top case filter, not so much. I did lasered some alphacool graphics on one side.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> ....Everyone, especially given the proliferation of windows in cases these days...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And unless you go to specific lengths to conceal the radiators, they will be visible.
> 
> IMO, the appearance (at this level of product) is _just as crucial_ as the performance, but always come secondary.
> 
> In other words, chose it for the numbers, buy it because it looks good, and be happy on both fronts!
> 
> We don't put build logs up - with pictures mind you - to keep our good lookin' rigs a secret!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


It's hard for me to lose sleep over something that will remain covered while installed inside my case. The parts that are visible are the ones I pay special attention to, the ones that aren't, as long as they perform well, then I'm a happy man.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I gotta say these fans are easy on the ears even at full blast, at mid speeds, I hear the psu fan over everything else. I'm definitely impressed. Oh and I did block off 2-3C at idle. Which was a bonus.


----------



## gdubc

So I need to order some stuff from performance pcs but I didn't have the money at the time of the Valentine's Day coupon. Does anyone recall if they happen to run a St. Pattys Day promo?


----------



## VSG

Shoot them an email and see, Hank usually answers them himself whenever he has the time so who knows?


----------



## John Freeman

i just watercooled my pc and when i play a game like far cry 3 for a while ill get a high pitched beep noise from my computer. The temps are very high at like 70C on CPU and 55C on GPU. It that a temp warning or something else like a PSU issue. You can see my specs in sig. any my stupid pump is still gurgling bubbles so that may be why temps suck but idk


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> i just watercooled my pc and when i play a game like far cry 3 for a while ill get a high pitched beep noise from my computer. The temps are very high at like 70C on CPU and 55C on GPU. It that a temp warning or something else like a PSU issue. You can see my specs in sig. any my stupid pump is still gurgling bubbles so that may be why temps suck but idk


shake(or rock it back and forth gently) that beast and get those bubbles out. temps definitely look high for H2O cooling.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> i just watercooled my pc and when i play a game like far cry 3 for a while ill get a high pitched beep noise from my computer. The temps are very high at like 70C on CPU and 55C on GPU. It that a temp warning or something else like a PSU issue. You can see my specs in sig. any my stupid pump is still gurgling bubbles so that may be why temps suck but idk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> I'm so OCD that would drive me crazy.


I don't really care, just glad the rad performs amazing well.

Could be be coil whine. I freaked out when I heard my cards for the first time.


----------



## John Freeman

for sure not coil whine. This is a defiant beep. like a 1khz censorship beep. as if i was cussing out my computer and it was bleeping me out


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> for sure not coil whine. This is a defiant beep. like a 1khz censorship beep. as if i was cussing out my computer and it was bleeping me out


Have you got a fan controller with a temperature warning?


----------



## Ithanul

Some more fans for my build.

Now I am stuck on what color to dye them.


----------



## Anoxy

but they look so good in white


----------



## longroadtrip

^^^ this...


----------



## Aftermath2006

anybody know if ppcs or frozen cpu are ever getting the monsoon acrylic kits in ever again been look for awhile but always out of stock


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> anybody know if ppcs or frozen cpu are ever getting the monsoon acrylic kits in ever again been look for awhile but always out of stock


Frozen has 40 in stock atm
Monsoon Hardline Pro Mandrel Kit - 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm)


----------



## VSG

Talk to Gene over at Monsoon, he will have a better estimate.


----------



## Aftermath2006

Oh my bad should have been more clear i was referring to the complete kits not just the mandrel kits sorry bout that


----------



## suburban78

More modding on the old girl!


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> More modding on the old girl!


That reminds me...I really need to get a drain plug....
Who makes yours?


----------



## suburban78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> That reminds me...I really need to get a drain plug....
> Who makes yours?


Its a chrome 1/2in barbed 1/4 turn pex angle stop from Home Depot


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> That reminds me...I really need to get a drain plug....
> Who makes yours?


Looks like a Cash Acme quarter turn Sharkbite PEX - Barb stop fitting with the nut on the push-fit side screwed off.


----------



## suburban78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like a Cash Acme quarter turn Sharkbite PEX - Barb stop fitting with the nut on the push-fit side screwed off.


Someone peeked at the pic


----------



## slax0r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> I know, for 1 Rad shiping cost is "only" 47$...because I prefer EKWB they shiping cost is max 12-15 $
> 
> So now I'm thinking to prder EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240) until they still have in stock.
> 
> Is that RAD ok quality?


That's because EKWB is in Slovenia, right at your doorstep.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> but they look so good in white


I know, but dang it, I would have to change my color theme I had planned, black, red, and green. Hmmm, maybe black, red, and white would still match the idea of a radioactive dragon. Though means I can't use my Primochill green acrylic tubes. Poor computer, I keep changing stuff up, adding more ideas, and now I may throw another few hundred on parts and acrylic tubes.


----------



## kizwan

Water temp while running Valley. I also have temp sensor that I attached on the radiator (body) & interestingly it read 43C. GPU's are overclocked to 1225MHz core, 1300MHz memory with +200mV (max at 1.414V & 1.383V respectively).

Ambient is 34C. It's windy day today, so it's not bad.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Water temp while running Valley. I also have temp sensor that I attached on the radiator (body) & interestingly it read 43C. GPU's are overclocked to 1225MHz core, 1300MHz memory with +200mV (max at 1.414V & 1.383V)
> 
> Ambient is 34C. It's windy day today, so it's not bad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks familiar







Being from jamaica i love the heat tho....


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slax0r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> I know, for 1 Rad shiping cost is "only" 47$...because I prefer EKWB they shiping cost is max 12-15 $
> 
> So now I'm thinking to prder EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240) until they still have in stock.
> 
> Is that RAD ok quality?
> 
> 
> 
> That's because EKWB is in Slovenia, right at your doorstep.
Click to expand...

I like to buy stuff from EU too. Their shipping charge easy on the eyes (LOL because it's in Euro). I think shipping is much cheaper than buying stuff from US.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Water temp while running Valley. I also have temp sensor that I attached on the radiator (body) & interestingly it read 43C. GPU's are overclocked to 1225MHz core, 1300MHz memory with +200mV (max at 1.414V & 1.383V)
> 
> Ambient is 34C. It's windy day today, so it's not bad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks familiar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being from jamaica i love the heat tho....
Click to expand...









I hate heat & I hate cold weather too.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

I only love 3 months out of the year here and that's summer, the other 9 to me are cold (winter being the worst)....What's your cards temp with this kinda weather and how fast do you have to run your fans....


----------



## szeged

i hate the heat, i love the cold, it makes benching so much more fun








damn you florida weather.


----------



## Majentrix

It's time for the half-yearly refill once more, and it's going to be the first time using the HAF XB. Thanks to the case's unique layout it's going to be a bit different than normal, I'm going to have to cut the water-filled tubing at some point.

Going for the timeless red theme this time round.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






What you can see in the below photo is some minor kinking which looks much worse than it actually is.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## soulreaper05

Some pictures of my rig in a new case!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I only love 3 months out of the year here and that's summer, the other 9 to me are cold (winter being the worst)....What's your cards temp with this kinda weather and how fast do you have to run your fans....


With overclocked (1225/1300) at 1.414V & 1.383V (average below 1.4V), GPU1 67C (VRM1 74C) & GPU2 70C (VRM1 83C). Fans was running at full speed. At stock, they will be in the 50s range.

Fujipoly 11 W/mK thermal pad on the way for VRM1. USPS really slow in updating tracking.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> With overclocked (1225/1300) at 1.414V & 1.383V (average below 1.4V), GPU1 67C (VRM1 74C) & GPU2 70C (VRM1 83C). Fans was running at full speed. At stock, they will be in the 50s range.
> 
> Fujipoly 11 W/mK thermal pad on the way for VRM1. USPS really slow in updating tracking.


Bet you cant wait for the cooler weather to come in to see how much the temp on the cards will drop....USPS does that,last time i order from them it said awaiting customs,then about an hour later it was delivered....

OK guys i asked this b4 but didn't really get an answer,when i had just a 360 and 240 both intakes,i ran just a 140 rear for exhaust....Now i have 1x360 and 2x240 running intake,with the 360 and 240 and fans at full speed (2200 rpm) i would dissapate (491 watts of heat)....With the new config (3 rads intaking) still single 140 exhaust with fans at 1200-1250 i dissapte (465 watts of heat)....The fact that the heat being dissapated is even less than when i was using only 2 rads,is it still ok to just run the single 140 for exhaust....?


----------



## joesaiditstrue

just waiting on my PSU to get back from RMA (seasonic)

can't even get them to respond to emails...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> With overclocked (1225/1300) at 1.414V & 1.383V (average below 1.4V), GPU1 67C (VRM1 74C) & GPU2 70C (VRM1 83C). Fans was running at full speed. At stock, they will be in the 50s range.
> 
> Fujipoly 11 W/mK thermal pad on the way for VRM1. USPS really slow in updating tracking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bet you cant wait for the cooler weather to come in to see how much the temp on the cards will drop....USPS does that,last time i order from them it said awaiting customs,then about an hour later it was delivered....
Click to expand...

It's not going to get any cooler than this unless it's raining. We only have one weather....hot. Well actually two, hot & raining.







Lowest temp is 28C.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> OK guys i asked this b4 but didn't really get an answer,when i had just a 360 and 240 both intakes,i ran just a 140 rear for exhaust....Now i have 1x360 and 2x240 running intake,with the 360 and 240 and fans at full speed (2200 rpm) i would dissapate (491 watts of heat)....With the new config (3 rads intaking) still single 140 exhaust with fans at 1200-1250 i dissapte (465 watts of heat)....The fact that the heat being dissapated is even less than when i was using only 2 rads,is it still ok to just run the single 140 for exhaust....?


Do you have temp sensor in the casing? Should be ok though.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i hate the heat, i love the cold, it makes benching so much more fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> damn you florida weather.


The hotter, the better for me. I hate winter, kinda wish I lived in Florida, lol


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Yeah florida has similar weather to jamaica, I dnt know how someone can not like that nice tropical weather...







. The only reason I like the cold (dnt mind it for a day or 2) is to see my temps drop....

@ kizwan....No temps sensor,only use a xspc for water temps,i do use speecy to monitor mobo temps which can get up to the high 30;s....


----------



## RickRockerr

Winter is great time for benching







This years temperature record in Finland is -40,7°C


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> The hotter, the better for me. I hate winter, kinda wish I lived in Florida, lol


I am with you on that. I miss my home State of Alabama so much. Florida was only like a hour or two drive from the house. To dang cold up here in North California. At least this winter has not been a very rainy one, but dang that wind that comes through the valley at night time.

Though the summers are very nice here. All the Californians think I am nuts for considering 90-100F nice weather. I can still go around in pants during these summers no problem since the humidity is so low.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Some more fans for my build.
> 
> Now I am stuck on what color to dye them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think they look good as is. I've been checking out the same fans, dat price dough.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just waiting on my PSU to get back from RMA (seasonic)
> 
> can't even get them to respond to emails...


Looking good.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think they look good as is. I've been checking out the same fans, dat price dough.


So true, only reason I bought three atm. Still got to buy 12 of them. Reason I going to by six next month then the last six the month after. The three alone where like 80-90 bucks in total.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> What you can see in the below photo is some minor kinking which looks much worse than it actually is.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think if you cut the tube just a Tiny (!) bit shorter and try rotating it a bit on the fitting the kink will lessen


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Funny you should mention the yellow and red theme....
> as I'm considering a retro looking build with modern parts using red, yellow and black.
> Yellow coolant in clear acrylic based around an ASUS ROG board.
> The retro theme came to mind when making a short male / male adapter for a bit of cable testing recently.


This is why we need green pcb MB/GPUs and that April fools 900d!!!


----------



## BWAS1000

I'll enter with my H55, will post back when I get my custom loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> This is why we need green pcb MB/GPUs and that April fools 900d!!!


brown w/ orange mb pcb ftw


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I'll enter with my H55, will post back when I get my custom loop.






Extreme watercooling


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> Extreme watercooling


Laugh while you can, I'll be back and better than ever, first I need to go put down a robbery, be right back.


----------



## wermad

CLS are welcomed here and there should be no jokes about it since where all under water here









edit: @BWAS1000 quad rotary shrieking powah down Mulsanne!!!


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> CLS are welcomed here and there should be no jokes about it since where all under water here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: @BWAS1000 quad rotary shrieking power down Mulsanne!!!


Welcomed yes, jokes, yes. I have a CLC and will continue to laugh at them

Yes Quad Rotors are quite a sound/sight/brap aren't they?


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I'll enter with my H55, will post back when I get my custom loop.


Welcome. Many of us started small just like you. You'll soon get addicted to the cooling potential. I started with an H80 and within about a year and a half graduated to a full custom loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Yes Quad Rotors are quite a sound/sight/brap aren't they?


Indeed







. Still, CLK GTR/LM (not CLR!!!!!!) going down the dunlap bridge is a wet dream for me







.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Welcome. Many of us started small just like you. You'll soon get addicted to the cooling potential. I started with an H80 and within about a year and a half graduated to a full custom loop.


I already am mesmerised by the cooling potential. The Idea of having CPU and GPU cooled together by one system is what seals the deal for me. cuz all I want to do is basically take an H100 and and a GPU to the loop. Aiming for a Pentium G3220 and GTzX750, neither of which need liquid, or even good air cooling, but I'll do it anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still, CLK GTR/LM (not CLR!!!!!!) going down the dunlap bridge is a wet dream for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You can't beat the rumble of that R26B, its eargasm. Only thing that can beat the 13J is the R26B, heheh rotors4lyfe


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Yes Quad Rotors are quite a sound/sight/brap aren't they?
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still, CLK GTR/LM (not CLR!!!!!!) going down the dunlap bridge is a wet dream for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Welcome. Many of us started small just like you. You'll soon get addicted to the cooling potential. I started with an H80 and within about a year and a half graduated to a full custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> I already am mesmerised by the cooling potential. The Idea of having CPU and GPU cooled together by one system is what seals the deal for me. cuz all I want to do is basically take an H100 and and a GPU to the loop. Aiming for a Pentium G3220 and GTzX750, neither of which need liquid, or even good air cooling, but I'll do it anyway.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still, CLK GTR/LM (not CLR!!!!!!) going down the dunlap bridge is a wet dream for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can't beat the rumble of that R26B, its eargasm. Only thing that can beat the 13J is the R26B, heheh rotors4lyfe
Click to expand...

Rotary's....fun till you get the oil bill.

For me,its the Porsche 962 and the McLaren F1 LM.

Such wonderful cars.....


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Rotaries*....fun till you get the oil bill.
> 
> For me,its the Porsche 962 and the McLaren F1 LM.
> 
> Such wonderful cars.....


Well maybe not having to buy pistons and such when tuning a rotary would make up for it. Way I see it, pricing on seals is countered by all the cams and pistons you have to buy when tuning a piston engine. Maybe the car is so fun that you have like 3 gallons of oil in the car at all times and it doesn't matter to you. hehe.

EDIT:Fix'd







. I do like the F1 LM a lot.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Rotary's....fun till you get the oil bill.
> 
> For me,its the Porsche 962 and the McLaren F1 LM.
> 
> Such wonderful cars.....


Miss the sounds of the old GT1 575s, DBR9s, and C5Rs







. Rules change so frequent and we see a lot of great cars go







.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Miss the sounds of the old GT1 575s, DBR9s, and C5Rs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Rules change so frequent and we see a lot of great cars go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


As we are the topic of cars. Favourite sounding engine(s) and favourite engines. Specific engines, type or both.

mine are (sounding, type)
Rotor2 Rotary
L4 DOHC
L6 DOHC

Favourite, type
Rotor2 Rotary
L6 DOHC.

If anyone remember NFS Underground 2, think of the EVO VIII Fully tuned when I say L4 DOHC.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> rotors4lyfe


Rotors 4 the racetrack more like it! I've worked on my fair share and I can tell ya I hope to never have to run a fresh built race rotary, fresh gaskets build oil and premix a burnin', in the garage with the doors closed not to wake the neighbors ever again. Burns the eyes like nobody's business. Rotaries are nice but I don't want to have to run premix or pay $1000 for a compression gauge in/for my street car







Also I don't want to have to run a custom 1/4" thick walled muffler to keep from blowing holes out the sides (I'm looking at you, Borla, and your cheap construction for the past couple years)

WRAB-WRAB-WRAB-WRAB


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Rotors 4 the racetrack more like it! I've worked on my fair share and I can tell ya I hope to never have to run a fresh built race rotary, fresh gaskets build oil and premix a burnin', in the garage with the doors closed not to wake the neighbors ever again. Burns the eyes like nobody's business. Rotaries are nice but I don't want to have to run premix or pay $1000 for a compression gauge in/for my street car
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I don't want to have to run a custom 1/4" thick walled muffler to keep from blowing holes out the sides (I'm looking at you, Borla, and your cheap construction for the past couple years)
> 
> *BRAP-BRAP-BRAP-BRAP*


I would think if you treat them right rotaties are quite reliable. Some oil here and there, and that Apex seal change every 100,000 miles and you'd be fine. a 13B runs like 1000 on eBay, I'd love to have one.

Also, I was more so thinking engines that at least has a street variant.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I would think if you treat them right rotaties are quite reliable.


Our race engines don't blow they just get tired - rotaries can be reliable without a doubt. As long as you run premix. And have good oil and WATER COOLING - look we got back on subject


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> *Our race engines don't blow they just get tired* - rotaries can be reliable without a doubt. As long as you run premix. And have good oil and WATER COOLING - look we got back on subject


I like that line, +1 for the ****els, hehe.


----------



## Anoxy

lol this thread....


----------



## DarthBaggins

gotta love when the automotive world crosses into the PC world lol


----------



## Neo Zuko

One of the last actual water cooling posts here was about the AIO units (I kid







I kid). The AIO CPU water coolers are not a bad way to go until you figure things out, way lighter on the motherboard than a massive sagging heat sink like the Super Mega I used to own. I've personally owned a Corsair H80i and H100i, then a Swiftech H220, and I'm going for a Swiftech H220X next month to drop this stock Intel CPU cooler in my current build.



The expandable H220X isn't pre filled like the others were so you have to fill and bleed it (though despite being pre-filled and ready to go the H220 was still expandable with a very strong pump and copper rad) and it's a step up as it includes a nice free standing CPU block with a very strong pump and a nice reservoir on the side of the real copper 240 rad. Plus the H220X has actual G 1/4 threads for real compression fittings. Then as money permits I'm going straight to clear plastic hard line water cooling.

But if I didn't have upgraditis the Swiftech systems are getting closer to good enough for the average user. Or they will be the ultimate gateway drug for water cooling. Hard to say which is the more prevalent situation with the AIO crowd. But for $150 the H220X looks to decimate every other AIO unit available even if it's a bit more work than usual. Plus the H220X has LEDs and the Swiftech CPU mounting system is arguably second to none.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Anyone with a 240 NexXxoS... Can the rear threaded hole be used as a drain port aside from using it as a fill port?


----------



## carmal

CAN I JOIN...























mY SPEC..

Ek SUpreme clear CSQ cpu block.
XSPC EX 120 AND 240 RAD ( REAR AND FRONT)
OCOOL 240 RAD (TOP)
FITTING BITSPOWER AND KOOLANCE...
RES BITSPOWER 150 MULTI Z...
PUMP EK DCP 4.0
PRIMOCHILL TUBING.
EK UNIVERSAL GPU BLOCK.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Anyone with a 240 NexXxoS... Can the rear threaded hole be used as a drain port aside from using it as a fill port?


If you can rotate your case so that it's the lowest point in the system and it won't spill everywhere, why not? You might have to have another point to open so you don't get the straw effect.

Lookin' good, carmal!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> If you can rotate your case so that it's the lowest point in the system and it won't spill everywhere, why not? You might have to have another point to open so you don't get the straw effect.


The 240 is at the bottom of my case. I just wanted to be sure it's not a directional port that'll end up causing me problems later on when I try to use it as a drain, that's all. Thanks.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmal*
> 
> CAN I JOIN...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: mY SPEC..
> 
> 
> 
> Ek SUpreme clear CSQ cpu block.
> XSPC EX 120 AND 240 RAD ( REAR AND FRONT)
> OCOOL 240 RAD (TOP)
> FITTING BITSPOWER AND KOOLANCE...
> RES BITSPOWER 150 MULTI Z...
> PUMP EK DCP 4.0
> PRIMOCHILL TUBING.
> EK UNIVERSAL GPU BLOCK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't see why not given that you've put together a H20 cooled triple gpu system.
Nice work









Can you get the front rad mounted vertically ?? (straightening the res in doing so)

And why so much aeration ??
Have you got the tube installed on the inlet fitting on the BitsPower res cap ?


----------



## mrinfinit3

You know, with all these "green" LCSs...wonder why no one has decided to to a Mountain Dew theme.... hmmmmmmmmm


----------



## carmal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Don't see why not given that you've put together a H20 cooled triple gpu system.
> Nice work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you get the front rad mounted vertically ?? (straightening the res in doing so)
> 
> And why so much aeration ??
> Have you got the tube installed on the inlet fitting on the BitsPower res cap ?


THANKS BRO...

how can i make the front rad vertically without modding the case??...can u help me bro....






















i live in malaysia...ambient temp are about quite high in malaysia ...30c....so i think i need more air to support those rad...























i think i have installed those inlet tube...at the moment there are no leak...


----------



## carmal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> You know, with all these "green" LCSs...wonder why no one has decided to to a Mountain Dew theme.... hmmmmmmmmm


thanks bro...good idea...maybe next upgrade...i will considered those mountain dew theme...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just waiting on my PSU to get back from RMA (seasonic)
> 
> can't even get them to respond to emails...


Lovely build man! Love it!


----------



## Anti Hero

Messing around with some camera settings. Thought i'd post a couple. I like the first one a lot. Second one has too much HDR going on.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Messing around with some camera settings. Thought i'd post a couple. I like the first one a lot. Second one has too much HDR going on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Very nice shots.









I Can't get that clear LED color with my Hue strip, might need to order a clear one.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Very nice shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Can't get that clear LED color with my Hue strip, might need to order a clear one.


Thanks. Got my leds and led controller at frys. While they look good now, they'll be dying out on me again soon like the last 4 strips ive returned to frys lol. I need to just buy different leds.


----------



## Juthos




----------



## Trolle BE

since my xt45 had i leak i quikly replaced it with a EK 360xt rad(only backup i had)
i tested the EK rad by filling,flushing and filling it and put some light pressure in the rad(with a compressor)
it had no signs of a leak
but now i think that im trippin,i can see small specks everywhere(i use distilled + mayehms uv green and now im using mayhems pastel ice white + uv green)
the specks look to be from the previous rad and not from the current one

i think im losing it


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Is it leaking near the fitting?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anti Hero*
> 
> Messing around with some camera settings. Thought i'd post a couple. I like the first one a lot. Second one has too much HDR going on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think both look great, even the second pic. What kind of case is that?


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> Is it leaking near the fitting?


im not even sure its leaking








my previous rad leaked at the other side of the fittings


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> im not even sure its leaking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my previous rad leaked at the other side of the fittings


I felt like I could see leaks after I swapped out some 45's that we're leaking when I put my 240 in but I was just seeing crap or remnants of the previous leaks, and I'm only on Distilled with a killcoil


----------



## Roikyou

Curious what tube reservoirs people use with the Switch 810. I feel it's limited in space, makes me want to move up to Caselabs. And for the reservoir, you have to drill your own mount points or there usually something there you can mount it to? Just curious, always looking at changing things up...Thanks


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Curious what tube reservoirs people use with the Switch 810. I feel it's limited in space, makes me want to move up to Caselabs. And for the reservoir, you have to drill your own mount points or there usually something there you can mount it to? Just curious, always looking at changing things up...Thanks


I am using an EK D5/res combo with a 250 tube. I drilled holes to mount it and enough room to fill it from the top. There are pictures ? pages back and in my profile.


----------



## iamkraine

I just started my first Build Log. Feedback would be awesome.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1468567/build-log-silver-surfer-bitfenix-prodigy#post_21826396

Not sure if the one in my signature is working properly or if I set it up correctly.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I am using an EK D5/res combo with a 250 tube. I drilled holes to mount it and enough room to fill it from the top. There are pictures ? pages back and in my profile.


Will check it out. Thanks


----------



## lurker2501

Question of the day: will mdpc 1/2 tube sleeve fit under the 1/2 XSPC compressions?

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve-kits-tools/sleeve-kits/tubing-sleeve-pack.htm


----------



## BWAS1000

So any dudes here ever use the Larkooler Skywater 330? Looking to this kit for next build, not cuz its the cheapest, but because its not a bayres. The Arc Mini has 2 5.25 bays, And I want them. WIll use XSPC X20 750 kit for the Thermaltake S21.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> So any dudes here ever use the Larkooler Skywater 330? Looking to this kit for next build, not cuz its the cheapest, but because its not a bayres. The Arc Mini has 2 5.25 bays, And I want them. WIll use XSPC X20 750 kit for the Thermaltake S21.


Low end,I wouldnt advise it.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> The 240 is at the bottom of my case. I just wanted to be sure it's not a directional port that'll end up causing me problems later on when I try to use it as a drain, that's all. Thanks.


Yes, you'll have no problems. I use it for my drain port along with a phobya valve fitting. I open the valve and crack open the top of my res and the water pours out.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> So any dudes here ever use the Larkooler Skywater 330? Looking to this kit for next build, not cuz its the cheapest, but because its not a bayres. The Arc Mini has 2 5.25 bays, And I want them. WIll use XSPC X20 750 kit for the Thermaltake S21.


From what reviews I had seen on it before my build I would highly advise against it, look into EK or XSPC's kits


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> From what reviews I had seen on it before my build I would highly advise against it, look into EK or XSPC's kits


May I see these reviews please? I like XSPCs 150USD X20 750/EX240 kit, but I would then need a whole new pump and res. if its that bad then I wouldn't mind it though.


----------



## szeged

i had an xspc kit, the bayres leaked miserably and i tossed that sucker right into the driveway so i could run it over later. Used the d5 it came with and the waterblock for a while, but i eventually replaced everything except the d5 with EK gear. Go for the EK imo.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i had an xspc kit, the bayres leaked miserably and i tossed that sucker right into the driveway so i could run it over later. Used the d5 it came with and the waterblock for a while, but i eventually replaced everything except the d5 with EK gear. Go for the EK imo.


Jeez, EK gear is like twice the price. EK sells a 120mm kit for 210 while XSPC has a 240 kit for 150.


----------



## szeged

all about the quality









imo when it comes to things like this, i would rather spend more to know the parts wont fail instantly, or over time than pay less now, and pay more later for an rma on a gpu or mobo because something leaked.

Xspc does make good quality stuff, but ill be sticking with EK for now after past experiences with xspc products, except their rads, i loved the xspc slim rads.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> all about the quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> imo when it comes to things like this, i would rather spend more to know the parts wont fail instantly, or over time than pay less now, and pay more later for an rma on a gpu or mobo because something leaked.
> 
> Xspc does make good quality stuff, but ill be sticking with EK for now after past experiences with xspc products, except their rads, i loved the xspc slim rads.


I don't see much problem with using XSPC. A lot of people have has their resevoirs work fine. I think even the X20 750 pump was updated to be better. If the EK kit was a 240 rad I'd be a bit more willing but its not.


----------



## szeged

Yeah i think theres definitely more working kits than not lol, if they had too many rmas with them they would probably stop making the kits lol. Just my personal preference now to go for EK products when i can. I still have quite a few xspc products though. When you do get your xspc kit just make sure the res is well sealed and has no defects.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ek's 240 kit: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-240-hfx.html


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Yeah i think theres definitely more working kits than not lol, if they had too many rmas with them they would probably stop making the kits lol. Just my personal preference now to go for EK products when i can. I still have quite a few xspc products though. When you do get your xspc kit just make sure the res is well sealed and has no defects.


Yeah Will do. I wouldn't mind it as much if I has a job. I'm 15 and I get an allowance of less than 1USD. a day. No my parents aren't wicked. its 6TTD and serves my quite well, just not good for funding my hobby.


----------



## szeged

in that case go for the xspc kit, just get a hot glue gun out just incase the res leaks


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Ek's 240 kit: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-240-hfx.html


the XSPC kit its 150. I've been told time and time again about the quality think, but I think XSPC has some good parts that it can last me a while


----------



## DarthBaggins

I use xspc as my CPU block, and like it so far other than was looking into other brands but think I'll be sticking with the Raystorm for a while


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I use xspc as my CPU block, and like it so far other than was looking into other brands but think I'll be sticking with the Raystorm for a while


thats kinda why I'd like to go with the XSPC kit. I want to see a proper review on the skywater 330. So I'll know if a new res+pump is in order or not.


----------



## PinzaC55

I use the Raystorm Chrome partly because it can't be beat for looks except for the Apogee Gold.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think both look great, even the second pic. What kind of case is that?


The case is a corsair 750D....


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> thats kinda why I'd like to go with the XSPC kit. I want to see a proper review on the skywater 330. So I'll know if a new res+pump is in order or not.


Ronsanut did a good review on this kit go check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTx9YOXUS-w


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Ronsanut did a good review on this kit go check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTx9YOXUS-w


Great thanks, I'' watch this and check back in life 30 minutes.

Anyone know if Swiftech Hydrx gunks up loops? I want colour but not coloured tubing, although gunking up my stuff isn't worth it at all.


----------



## Jakewat

@BWAS1000
I know the feeling about really wanting about getting into water cooling and also not having the funds to buy the parts. But i have to tell you, I'm 16 and my initial plan was one of those xspc kits but after extensive researching, questioning and saving money i have found myself in the middle of a full loop acrylic build as my first time watercooling. Not saying to be this crazy but finding a way to save that extra buck and invest in the higher quality stuff will go a long way.
but that is just my opinion.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> @BWAS1000
> I know the feeling about really wanting about getting into water cooling and also not having the funds to buy the parts. But i have to tell you, I'm 16 and my initial plan was one of those xspc kits but after extensive researching, questioning and saving money i have found myself in the middle of a full loop acrylic build as my first time watercooling. Not saying to be this crazy but finding a way to save that extra buck and invest in the higher quality stuff will go a long way.
> but that is just my opinion.


I suppose so, I'm trying to go cheap, but not so cheap that it breaks like ninja fast.
Hey anyone here know if this is a good block?


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I suppose so, I'm trying to go cheap, but not so cheap that it breaks like ninja fast.
> Hey anyone here know if this is a good block?


That block is for chipset cooling, not for the processor.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> That block is for chipset cooling, not for the processor.


I know, I was looking to put it on a GPU, since it says its for that as well. I'd end up with a Raystorm or larkoolers block for CPU.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I know, I was looking to put it on a GPU, since it says its for that as well. I'd end up with a Raystorm or larkoolers block for CPU.


Just grab a raystorm and call it a day....


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Just grab a raystorm and call it a day....


Okay so lemme make this clear

I have to kits to choose from
XSPC Raystorm EX240/750
And Larkooler Skywater 330

I'd prefer the XSPC kit, better block better pump bigger res. Also think the rad is better. But I have an Arc Mini and An Thermaltake S21. the Arc mini will be going under water first. It has 2 5.2 bays, which I would like to use, which is the only reason I'm looking at the Skywater. Its not a dual bay res.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Okay so lemme make this clear
> 
> I have to kits to choose from
> XSPC Raystorm EX240/750
> And Larkooler Skywater 330
> 
> I'd prefer the XSPC kit, better block better pump bigger res. Also think the rad is better. But I have an Arc Mini and An Thermaltake S21. the Arc mini will be going under water first. It has 2 5.2 bays, which I would like to use, which is the only reason I'm looking at the Skywater. Its not a dual bay res.


Like ''B NEG'' said,stay away from the skywater,better to be safe than sorry....


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Like ''B NEG'' said,stay away from the skywater,better to be safe than sorry....


Bleh, fine fine fine, Anyone think I can fir the X20 750 kit inside the arc mini? could probably remove top drive cage.


----------



## DarthBaggins

You could also pick up components uber cheap from the ocn marketplace


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You could also pick up components uber cheap from the ocn marketplace


I got an idea
Buy XSPC kit.
Buy bmaverick DDC or Phobya DC12-220 (Or another low cost pump good for small loops, namely CPU GPU and 1-2 240 rads)
Buy Swiftech MCres Micro
Stuff XSPC kit and MCres and new pump in Arc mini
Buy cheap block and rad on OCN.
buy swiftech Hydrix and decent tubing
Profit.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Bleh, fine fine fine, Anyone think I can fir the X20 750 kit inside the arc mini? could probably remove top drive cage.


step by step - XSPC / Fractal Design Water Cooling Project - Water Kit Installation


----------



## sebkow

Im thinking of adding 2 790's ( once they are out)into my build in a S5. Do you guys think gtx xtxremes 360 and 240 will be enough to cool everything, with some decent OC? I have a 4930k @ 4.5 and 2150 GT's in push and pull atm. I got a matx mb so 790 x2 wil have to do


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> step by step - XSPC / Fractal Design Water Cooling Project - Water Kit Installation


That is oddly specific, but the res is still in the bays. I was just gonna velcro it or something to the bottom drive cage.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Im thinking of adding 2 790's ( once they are out)into my build in a S5. Do you guys think gtx xtxremes 360 and 240 will be enough to cool everything, with some decent OC? I have a 4930k @ 4.5 and 2150 GT's in push and pull atm. I got a matx mb so 790 x2 wil have to do


I honestly think you will need more rad space,or you wont be getting really good temps....


----------



## szeged

4 780 cores would probably want a 360/480 monsta in there if overclocking lol.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 4 780 cores would probably want a 360/480 monsta in there if overclocking lol.


^^^^ This....Atleast a 480 just for the gpu's and another 240 for the cpu....


----------



## BWAS1000

So no one thinks my idea is good?


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> So no one thinks my idea is good?


Velcro? No. Over time it might wear down from the weight of the water and fall. That could cause tubing to rip off of a fitting and then water fries your parts. You could however make a bracket to hold it and screw/rivet it in


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> Velcro? No. Over time it might wear down from the weight of the water and fall. That could cause tubing to rip off of a fitting and then water fries your parts. You could however make a bracket to hold it and screw/rivet it in


Not that idea, this one


Spoiler: Profit



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I got an idea
> Buy XSPC kit.
> Buy bmaverick DDC or Phobya DC12-220 (Or another low cost pump good for small loops, namely CPU GPU and 1-2 240 rads)
> Buy Swiftech MCres Micro
> Stuff XSPC kit and MCres and new pump in Arc mini
> Buy cheap block and rad on OCN.
> buy swiftech Hydrix and decent tubing
> Profit.






Also I'm resting it on top of the drive cage. It will have support, just to keep it somewhat in place.


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I honestly think you will need more rad space,or you wont be getting really good temps....


I was thinking the same but this is a small case and only a lan pc. Might have to stick to 790's at stock


----------



## Anoxy

I mean, two 790s is a hell of a lot of power for "only a lan pc"

I doubt you'll need to overclock them much...


----------



## stickg1

Just picked up my Caselabs Merlin SM5!

Now I'm waiting for the mobo and other goodies!


----------



## psycho84

New Case









From V7 Reverse to V8 Reverse ^^


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Thinking i will take the jump into acrylic tubing soon and these are my options for a heat gun,i just want to know which will a good one to get....I dnt want anything too expensive just something that will get the job done....

http://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=heat%20gun&redirectFrom=Any


----------



## Pheozero

I'm sure this has been asked numerous times in here, but does pull vs push cause a significant change with temps? I was thinking of putting some GT's in pull to save some space in my future build.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I think both look great, even the second pic. What kind of case is that?
> 
> 
> 
> The case is a corsair 750D....
Click to expand...

OK, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Just picked up my Caselabs Merlin SM5!
> 
> Now I'm waiting for the mobo and other goodies!


----------



## Bigbrag

Here's my Evga Hadron Air I've been working on. There's a 240mm and a 120mm radiator stuffed in there








http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo2_zps8cdbf4ef.jpg.html
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo1_zps233e33df.jpg.html
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo4_zpsc02ec4de.jpg.html
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo2_zps089ecc81.jpg.html
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo5_zps809aea2b.jpg.html
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo3_zps7de899b5.jpg.html
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo4_zps67afa91f.jpg.html
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo5_zps711ba9f1.jpg.html


----------



## Killa Cam

has anyone ordered from jabtech lately?


----------



## Jakewat

@Jamaican Reaper
get the ozito variable speed one, i picked up the exact same one up from Bunnings nz and it works great. It can also heat from a min of 50 degrees to 600, very good range, and has lots of extras.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> New Case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From V7 Reverse to V8 Reverse ^^
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dang that is nice, I really digging that case. I think my addiction to cases is not stopping. Now I been thinking of getting a new case for my folder. Then again this Apollo case is over four to five years old now.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thinking i will take the jump into acrylic tubing soon and these are my options for a heat gun,i just want to know which will a good one to get....I dnt want anything too expensive just something that will get the job done....
> 
> http://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=heat%20gun&redirectFrom=Any


Good lord... That's a ridiculous amount of money to be paying for a heat gun.

I bought mine on sale at Harbor Freight Tools, and it was only $9 bucks. It's already paid for itself since the first time I used it. It has two heat ranges, and is more than capable of bending acrylic.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> New Case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From V7 Reverse to V8 Reverse ^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Loving it dude! This is the case I'd get if I didn't have my TJ11 already!


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Good lord... That's a ridiculous amount of money to be paying for a heat gun.
> 
> I bought mine on sale at Harbor Freight Tools, and it was only $9 bucks. It's already paid for itself since the first time I used it. It has two heat ranges, and is more than capable of bending acrylic.
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html


probably because its AUD


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Can I join the club now?






Specs:
Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (FANTASTIC LITTLE CASE!)
Intel i7-2600k OC'd to 4.3 GHz
16 GB DDR RAM
AMD Radeon HD7950 (Sapphire)

WC Specs:
2 Swiftech MCR-220 QP
Monsoon 7/16" x 5/8" Fittings
Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing
Heatkiller 79X0 Waterblock
XSPC Raystorm
D5 Vario Pump w/ EK X-Top Rev. 2
EK Multioption Reservoir 150

4 Scythe S-Flex F on top radiator
1 Cougar V12, and 1 random cooler master fan on front radiator (I really wanted to get it together, GTs to come soon).

Temps: with fans at 900 RPM, pretty much silent, CPU hovers around 35*C, GPU 34*C. Ambient temp is 25.6*C


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> @Jamaican Reaper
> get the ozito variable speed one, i picked up the exact same one up from Bunnings nz and it works great. It can also heat from a min of 50 degrees to 600, very good range, and has lots of extras.


Thx mate,hopefully by the time i'm ready to buy it they still have it....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Good lord... That's a ridiculous amount of money to be paying for a heat gun.
> 
> I bought mine on sale at Harbor Freight Tools, and it was only $9 bucks. It's already paid for itself since the first time I used it. It has two heat ranges, and is more than capable of bending acrylic.
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html


Aus prices are marked up pretty high....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> probably because its AUD


Exactly,i had a look at the titan black prices here just for the heck of it,and what do you know $1400....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Can I join the club now?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (FANTASTIC LITTLE CASE!)
> Intel i7-2600k OC'd to 4.3 GHz
> 16 GB DDR RAM
> AMD Radeon HD7950 (Sapphire)
> 
> WC Specs:
> 2 Swiftech MCR-220 QP
> Monsoon 7/16" x 5/8" Fittings
> Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing
> Heatkiller 79X0 Waterblock
> XSPC Raystorm
> D5 Vario Pump w/ EK X-Top Rev. 2
> EK Multioption Reservoir 150
> 
> 4 Scythe S-Flex F on top radiator
> 1 Cougar V12, and 1 random cooler master fan on front radiator (I really wanted to get it together, GTs to come soon).
> 
> Temps: with fans at 900 RPM, pretty much silent, CPU hovers around 35*C, GPU 34*C. Ambient temp is 25.6*C


You sure can!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I'm thinking of buying some HitLights white LED strips. Or maybe some RGB LED strips, but I haven't really found a good source for these yet.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The RGB kits are pretty sweet. I just went with red considering I already knew the color I wanted. Frozencpu and PPC are my go-to's for parts usually...


----------



## derickwm

Due to the "incident" I'm going in a different direction for a little bit:


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> New Case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From V7 Reverse to V8 Reverse ^^
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jakewat

It's getting there...
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/J...WP_20140222_18_02_34_Pro_zps49706edd.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/J...WP_20140222_15_44_11_Pro_zpsaa081cc5.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

What 92mm fans you got there?


----------



## nathanblandford

H
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx mate,hopefully by the time i'm ready to buy it they still have it....
> Aus prices are marked up pretty high....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly,i had a look at the titan black prices here just for the heck of it,and what do you know $1400....


haha yeah i was looking at the 750ti for my younger brother and its still like 225-240 for the msi/asus non reference


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Due to the "incident" I'm going in a different direction for a little bit:


Love the TJ07's. Sad really, I've got one here at home that has been here two years, and never had a system in it yet.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The RGB kits are pretty sweet. I just went with red considering I already knew the color I wanted. Frozencpu and PPC are my go-to's for parts usually...


Yeaa.. I just don't want to pay so much money for something so simple like LEDs. That's why I was just gonna DIY with Hitlights and get a molex adapter.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What 92mm fans you got there?


Just some cheap Arctic F9 pwm's, with painted black body.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I'm thinking of buying some HitLights white LED strips. Or maybe some RGB LED strips, but I haven't really found a good source for these yet.


They will definitely

I would recommend this...

http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Controller-2034RGB-3315-3215/dp/B0040FJ27S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393050364&sr=8-1&keywords=LED+strips

You can use these to bridge the strips together, if you decide to cut them. Amazon also sells a 16 foot strip of water proof LED stripping, but I don't think these adapters would work for that.
http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Connector-Conductor-SMD5050-Changing/dp/B006VZKSNC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393050270&sr=8-1&keywords=LED+connectors

You can then get this kit if you want to run it off of the PSU instead of a wall outlet.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14108/lit-294/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_RGB_Controller_With_IR-Remote_83156.html?tl=g6c77s126


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They will definitely
> 
> I would recommend this...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Controller-2034RGB-3315-3215/dp/B0040FJ27S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393050364&sr=8-1&keywords=LED+strips


I bought that same kit, but with a different manufacturer name(SuperNight). But I bought the kit that didn't come with the wall power adapter. I just found an old wall wart with a plug that fit into the IR receiver and wired up the plug to a molex connector to run off the PSU and worked just fine. Saves you a few extra bucks that way too.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I bought that same kit, but with a different manufacturer name(SuperNight). But I bought the kit that didn't come with the wall power adapter. I just found an old wall wart with a plug that fit into the IR receiver and wired up the plug to a molex connector to run off the PSU and worked just fine. Saves you a few extra bucks that way too.


Can you turn off the LEDs entirely with the remote? Or only change colors? Since my computer is in my room, I'd like to be able to turn the lights off at night.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Can you turn off the LEDs entirely with the remote? Or only change colors? Since my computer is in my room, I'd like to be able to turn the lights off at night.


you can do it all, on/off. You can even setup rotation cycles and what now.

Moren, yeah, you can also do that. When I got that kit it was only 16$. On sale during x-mas. I'm almost positive the bridging units won't work with the waterproof fat strips, which sucks =(


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Just solder! Soldering is so useful.

I just gotta debate whether or not lights are worth 30 bucks now







Just spent 40 bucks on 4 GT AP14s which will at least give me performance.


----------



## skupples

Even soldering is a PITA with the encased strips.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Aren't you supposed to just cut off the rubber/plastic material then just solder?

I did it with my motorcycle LED lights as turn signals.

It took me like 5 minutes to do two lights including soldering on connectors.


----------



## skupples

Yupp... Too much work, i rather spend the 4$ on the pre-made RGB connectors.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Haha. I feel ya.

I'd rather do it myself even if it takes me a ton of time. Just the satisfaction of DIY.


----------



## haitim01

*LOOP COMPLETE*:

(Sorry about all the pics, im pretty excited and proud of myself, wanted to give you guys a good look at it, very happy to answer any questions.)

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/1.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/2.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/3.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/4.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/5.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/7.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/8.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/9.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/11.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/12.jpg.html

http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/leaktesting.jpg.html


----------



## DarthBaggins

Good job, and I think being excited over your own work is allowed lol


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haitim01*
> 
> *LOOP COMPLETE*:
> 
> (Sorry about all the pics, im pretty excited and proud of myself, wanted to give you guys a good look at it, very happy to answer any questions.)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/3.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/5.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/7.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/8.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/9.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/11.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/12.jpg.html
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/leaktesting.jpg.html


Looks good....


----------



## BWAS1000

So I guess I can't profit with my idea?


----------



## psycho84

A little Update...

The Cables from Reset and Power Switch etc. are now on the Backsite from the Mainboard


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

are those just barb fittings?


----------



## psycho84

Yes









11mm Bitspower matt Black with 15,9mm/9,5mm Tygon E3606


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have some of the same barb fittings, those suckers really grip what ever line you hook to them

Sent from my Windows Phone 8X by HTC using Tapatalk


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haitim01*
> 
> *LOOP COMPLETE*:
> 
> (Sorry about all the pics, im pretty excited and proud of myself, wanted to give you guys a good look at it, very happy to answer any questions.)
> 
> http://s392.photobucket.com/user/haitim01/media/9.jpg.html


LOOKING GOOD


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> has anyone ordered from jabtech lately?


I ordered a bunch of ap-15s from them when they were on sale for $13.99, back when the scythe/nidelco hoopla started.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked numerous times in here, but does pull vs push cause a significant change with temps? I was thinking of putting some GT's in pull to save some space in my future build.


Anyone?


----------



## Neo Zuko

I seen the numbers and it's not worth it to me to double fan my rads. Especially of you go for more rads for silence. However if you are very limited on rads it helps or if you are shooting for that last bit of performance over all else. It also depends on the rad fin density, which fan you are using, etc.


----------



## PCModderMike

First attempt at polishing my blocks. Don't mind the missing EK badge, I have more on the way from FCPU right now.


----------



## szeged

turned out pretty good.


----------



## Neo Zuko

So crystal clear over frosted is the rage now?


----------



## Nilin404

Is this the place to soak your feet on the water?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> turned out pretty good.


I thought so too, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So crystal clear over frosted is the rage now?


I like it.


----------



## szeged

i never really liked the frosted acrylic from EK, wish i thought to polish it off when i still had 7970 blocks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> That is oddly specific, but the res is still in the bays. I was just gonna velcro it or something to the bottom drive cage.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> So no one thinks my idea is good?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> Velcro? No. Over time it might wear down from the weight of the water and fall. That could cause tubing to rip off of a fitting and then water fries your parts. You could however make a bracket to hold it and screw/rivet it in
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Not that idea, this one
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Profit
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I got an idea
> Buy XSPC kit.
> Buy bmaverick DDC or Phobya DC12-220 (Or another low cost pump good for small loops, namely CPU GPU and 1-2 240 rads)
> Buy Swiftech MCres Micro
> Stuff XSPC kit and MCres and new pump in Arc mini
> Buy cheap block and rad on OCN.
> buy swiftech Hydrix and decent tubing
> Profit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I'm resting it on top of the drive cage. It will have support, just to keep it somewhat in place.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

FWIW the industrial strength velcro will reliably hold pretty much whatever you want it to, just as long as the mounting surfaces are flat, clean, and dry. I had a friend stick a 32" TV to a basement wall with three ~15cm pieces of it and it stayed hanging there for a couple years before we had a heck of a time getting that TV off the wall without breaking it. We had to use a roofer's flat pry bar to get in between the TV and the wall right at the velcro or it was never coming off in one piece. The adhesive on that tape needs a day or two to 'cure', and after that the longer it stays on the more permanently stuck it gets.

I've had a Photon 270 D5 pump combo, a big heavy glass tube res, mounted with a ~20cm long piece of that industrial strength velcro for a while now. I started to try to pull it off there once already but gave up after realizing that if I'm not careful I'm going to wind up bending the reservoir bracket part of the case it's stuck to.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Crystal clear is how it should come.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW the industrial strength velcro will reliably hold pretty much whatever you want it to, just as long as the mounting surfaces are flat, clean, and dry. I had a friend stick a 32" TV to a basement wall with three ~15cm pieces of it and it stayed hanging there for a couple years before we had a heck of a time getting that TV off the wall without breaking it. We had to use a roofer's flat pry bar to get in between the TV and the wall right at the velcro or it was never coming off in one piece. The adhesive on that tape needs a day or two to 'cure', and after that the longer it stays on the more permanently stuck it gets.
> 
> I've had a Photon 270 D5 pump combo, a big heavy glass tube res, mounted with a ~20cm long piece of that industrial strength velcro for a while now. I started to try to pull it off there once already but gave up after realizing that if I'm not careful I'm going to wind up bending the reservoir bracket part of the case it's stuck to.


So that settle it, gonna do that. Next question. Should I just buy a kit for my S21 or piece together a loop from the OCN marketplace?I could also buy the kit and sell the rad here and buy the 120mm rad I'd need. Think I'd do that. I'd get a universal Raystorm and a pump/res which I want for teh S21, and some dude gets a 240 rad at a good price.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Crystal clear is how it should come.


That actually is how it comes now - it's called Clean CSQ - Clicky


----------



## Neo Zuko

So I guess I'll do this for my GPU, nice and crystal clear:



It does not really match my desire to use Swiftech for the CPU though. I do like the idea of those consistent Swiftech mounts and the nice mounting system but I may switch up that for something that matches my GPU more.

EDIT: Wow, that Clean CSQ is nice. And they have one that matches my GPU. Awww yea:



But I have no idea how the mount system is or how it performs.

Edit: Oh look at this!! Full copper. I would buy that if they had a matching 780 Ti GPU waterblock done in that style (actually it still might go nicely with the GPU block and the threads are stronger by default):



Edit: But it is very tempting to go for a match set like this, but I would have to go nickel and do the G 1/4 threads in acrylic for sure. How is EK nickel now a days? Any issues? I remember the days they had a few issues, or at least the posts about it. Why no copper acrylic option for the Maximus VI Gene Mobo waterblocks EK?:


----------



## skupples

I love my all copper block, but I believe the POM/Acrylic tops get SLIGHTLY better temps... @least they use to.


----------



## tjohn

Can I join please. Just leak testing my first water project

















Very excited about no leaks so far!!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Welcome!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Of course that's if I should even bother water cooling the Maximus VI Gene motherboard at all...


----------



## tjohn

Does anyone use the 3 pin connector that comes with a xspc d5 pump? Connected to motherboard cpu fan header


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> A little Update...
> 
> The Cables from Reset and Power Switch etc. are now on the Backsite from the Mainboard






Something that could clean that up just a little bit would be a sleeved single extension, it acts as a block that you simply plug into the whole front I/O connection, and it removes all the single cables from making a mess. I've got one in my rig, cleaned that right up. Apologies if the picture comes out weird, had to take it with my HTC One and Bluetooth it to my laptop.



Otherwise, a gorgeous rig. One of the best LD's I've ever seen.

-Zepp


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Random question (kinda pertaining to WC since it shows off the hardware): Does anyone know if SMD-5050 RGB LED strips are capable of working on the NZXT Hue RGB LED controller?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Does anyone use the 3 pin connector that comes with a xspc d5 pump? Connected to motherboard cpu fan header


I think a quote from martinsliquidlab.org would best answer your question, then it's up to you to decide.

Why is RPM sensing important?

RPM readout provides two important bits of information:

Pump and Loop Health Indicator - Having the ability to read RPM is a good way to see the pump is functioning as it was designed.
Sudden changes in RPM are indicators that either something has changed in the loop (IE a block is plugging), or that the pump is experiencing problems.
Without the ability to monitor via RPM, you are left with very little indication.
Pump Failure Shutdown - RPM is likely the easiest method of setting up an emergency pump shutdown routine.
Most motherboards and bios tools have some ability to set a minimum RPM level for the CPU fan header.
While this was originally intended to serve as a failsafe for CPU heat sink fans, it also works for pumps that have RPM sensing abilities.
While the D5 series may very well be the most trusted pump in all of watercooling, it's always good practice to have a failsafe.
Running two pumps in series can give you redundancy, but what happens if you have a single pump and the pump fails&#8230;bad things can happen.
I personally have had an instance where I was working on my case and accidentally bumped a loose molex connector only to have the pump quit working. My 8800GTX video card loop actually melted the acetal in my VGA block and the tubing had deformed to the point that it was nearly ready to burst.
Luckily I was right there looking and noticed the water boiling in my loop after getting a sense of some odd smell. Had the tubing burst, surely there would have been disaster.
Having had the pump on a shutdown routine, would have prevented that.


----------



## kcuestag

Some night shots:


----------



## Ouro

As someone who hasn't water cooled before, do you think I should buy my fittings after I have my radiator, pump, and res already installed or are there some tricks I can use to predetermine what kind of fitting angles I will need?


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I think a quote from martinsliquidlab.org would best answer your question, then it's up to you to decide.
> 
> Why is RPM sensing important?
> 
> RPM readout provides two important bits of information:
> 
> Pump and Loop Health Indicator - Having the ability to read RPM is a good way to see the pump is functioning as it was designed.
> Sudden changes in RPM are indicators that either something has changed in the loop (IE a block is plugging), or that the pump is experiencing problems.
> Without the ability to monitor via RPM, you are left with very little indication.
> Pump Failure Shutdown - RPM is likely the easiest method of setting up an emergency pump shutdown routine.
> Most motherboards and bios tools have some ability to set a minimum RPM level for the CPU fan header.
> While this was originally intended to serve as a failsafe for CPU heat sink fans, it also works for pumps that have RPM sensing abilities.
> While the D5 series may very well be the most trusted pump in all of watercooling, it's always good practice to have a failsafe.
> Running two pumps in series can give you redundancy, but what happens if you have a single pump and the pump fails&#8230;bad things can happen.
> I personally have had an instance where I was working on my case and accidentally bumped a loose molex connector only to have the pump quit working. My 8800GTX video card loop actually melted the acetal in my VGA block and the tubing had deformed to the point that it was nearly ready to burst.
> Luckily I was right there looking and noticed the water boiling in my loop after getting a sense of some odd smell. Had the tubing burst, surely there would have been disaster.
> Having had the pump on a shutdown routine, would have prevented that.


Thank you for the link and read. Very informative. I'll use it!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> As someone who hasn't water cooled before, do you think I should buy my fittings after I have my radiator, pump, and res already installed or are there some tricks I can use to predetermine what kind of fitting angles I will need?


I just grab a piece of paper and made a mock-up drawing of the case/component layouts and tube runs,that way i knew what fittings( compression or angled) i would need and where i would be using them....


----------



## Jakewat

@fast_fate
after reading that I went straight off and made myself an extension for my xspc rpm cable and hooked it up to CPU fan to make sure I don't forget it later. Hearing stories like that scares me about pumps


----------



## Mydog

I want join this club but I'm embarrassed to even post a pic of my latest build looking at all these wonderful, clean and tidy builds here. My photography skills are also bad.









The last three or four years I've been building water cooled rigs with only performance in my mind.

This is how my latest rig looks like ATM

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Almost looks like someone threw a stick of dynamite in the case, wire management doesn't exist.










There is a mobo in there somewhere, at least that's what Win7 tells me












Case: Lian Li PC343B-XT(demo/mockup version)
Hardware inside should be
Rampage IV Extreme with a 3960X(Switech gold block LTD )
16 GB (4 x 4 GB) Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 MHz CL9's
2x EVGA 780 Ti Classified (EK-blocks)
Antec 1200W TPQ PSU(inside)
Corsair AX1200i(outside)
EVGA EVBot
2x 360x60mm radd(one in each of the two 5,25 bays)
2x 280x60mm rads(both in the top)
2x Swiftech 35x pumps with tanks on top
17 fans of different size and sort








Coolanse fan-controller software controlled.
Lots of QDC's
Hailea water chiller(outside the case)



Moving all the hardware into a new retail version of the Lian Li PC343B-XT ATM

Btw! I can do clean rigs, this one I build back in 2009


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











I do about two water cooled builds a year and love it


----------



## HardwareDecoder

can you guys weigh in one which pump I should get ?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1468923/need-some-help-adding-a-second-290x-to-my-loop-and-upgrading-pump/20#post_21831925


----------



## Neo Zuko

Perhaps you guys here will know,

Aquaero 6 with an Aqualis XT, on the flow meter (which is good for a pump failure shut down), which range do I buy out of the three???

How about what do I use the pressure meter for??? Should I bother with a fill meter???

How many temp inlines should I get? Are inlines better than plug cap versions??

Basically what is the average Aquaero 6 setup? What should I buy??


----------



## szeged

got some acrylic into the sth10 again, about 1/3rd of the way there for now


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That actually is how it comes now - it's called Clean CSQ - Clicky


If only EK made matching SLI bridge links like that, I'd go out and buy another Titan for the sole purpose of using that bridge.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got some acrylic into the sth10 again, about 1/3rd of the way there for now
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking great man! Curious as to how stable those tubes are exiting the video card with the angle fittings? Doesn't need any kind of support there?


----------



## Anoxy

Hmmm....used RX480 V2 for 85 bucks, or brand new RX480 V3 for $123.


----------



## stickg1

Can I rig up PWM fans to run on a fan controller that only has 3pin inputs? Do I just use 4pin to 3pin adapters?

I want to run about 10 Rosewill Hyporbea's on a Lamptron FC5-V3..


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Can I rig up PWM fans to run on a fan controller that only has 3pin inputs? Do I just use 4pin to 3pin adapters?
> 
> I want to run about 10 Rosewill Hyporbea's on a Lamptron FC5-V3..


Using voltage control on a pwm fan can cause damage to motor and/or circuitry on the fan. If the fan controller is a pwm controller, there's no issue obviously, but there are very few that are meant to control pwm fans.......


----------



## stickg1

I see. I'm trying to find some decent fans. I can't really afford $20/ea though. I suppose it would come out the same spending $100 on fans and $200 on a controller as it would spending $200 on fans and $100 on a controller.

But I was hoping to get ten fans and a decent controller with temp and RPM display for $200 total. Maybe $250 if necessary.

Any hope for this happening?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looking great man! Curious as to how stable those tubes are exiting the video card with the angle fittings? Doesn't need any kind of support there?


Thanks









ATM without the compressions on they are kind of flimsy, but i test fitted them with the compressions on and you have to push with a bit of force to get them to move, i dont think ill have any problems with it, atleast i hope lol.


----------



## gdubc

Dang guys. I'm about to pick up almost everything I need to finish my builds, but now that I am packing so much in these last three orders, it's like dang....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I see. I'm trying to find some decent fans. I can't really afford $20/ea though. I suppose it would come out the same spending $100 on fans and $200 on a controller as it would spending $200 on fans and $100 on a controller.
> 
> But I was hoping to get ten fans and a decent controller with temp and RPM display for $200 total. Maybe $250 if necessary.
> 
> Any hope for this happening?


I've actually had really good luck at the store using the Silverstone FN121-P series of fans, they are quiet, move good amount of air, and stay quiet when used with rads, and they can be controlled good with a controller. Suggested retail is like $10, I used them on the "reactor" build I did for display at my store in an SM8 standard layout case.


----------



## Saturos

Well I here's my watercooled ITX build in my Compact Splash. Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I see. I'm trying to find some decent fans. I can't really afford $20/ea though. I suppose it would come out the same spending $100 on fans and $200 on a controller as it would spending $200 on fans and $100 on a controller.
> 
> But I was hoping to get ten fans and a decent controller with temp and RPM display for $200 total. Maybe $250 if necessary.
> 
> Any hope for this happening?


Good thing about PWM (at least with standard PWM and not Corsair pwm) is that you can use a PWM splitter and hook up a lot of fans to a single PWM header like the CPU header. Zalman also has a half decent fan controller (ZM FC3 or something like that) that has a single PWM channel and more voltage regulated channels apart from other things for a decent price. Swiftech has verified it with their PWM pumps and fans. So between your motherboard and this you can control plenty of PWM fans- just be aware of Corsair having a slightly different PWM mechanism.


----------



## stickg1

I ditched the Corsairs. Good fans but kind of loud.


----------



## yutzybrian

Nice and easy to fill too


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Haha, nice! I have to unbolt my pump/res and then tilt it to fill it up :| Can't complain though, my system is like completely bled in an hour or so.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I still can't decide which CPU waterblock to get with my GPU waterblock:

My GPU waterblock:



With this:



Or this:



My tubes will be hard line plastic tubes.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

The last pic gets my vote....


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Clear fo sho!!!


----------



## Neo Zuko

OK, you guys sold me. I updated the buy list in my drop down rig









Sadly, there is no point in an EK water block set to cool my Maximus VI Gene motherboard, for EK (the only ones I could find that does water blocks for this board) they only come in nickel which I don't want and it blocks the second PCI slot on the southbridge part. Oh well, it only gives me a reason to upgrade to the inevitable Rampage V Extreme and Haswell Extreme


----------



## haitim01

Yep another vote for the clear one... Looks great!


----------



## Deady

I've been lurking on this thread for sometime now. Got lots of great information from the wonderful forumers here.

Below was my first try at WC by modding a H50 which did no better than the stock cooler due to Singapore hot climate. Our ambient temps goes up to 34C possibly higher.



And here's my humble rig after graduating to a custom loop. It's nothing compared to the other rigs here but im glad to be able to complete it on with my own hands.






Question now is, can I join this club?









Regards from sunny Singapore.


----------



## Phishy714

Can anyone help me identify this rad?

http://i.imgur.com/B64BpwS.jpg


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deady*
> 
> I've been lurking on this thread for sometime now. Got lots of great information from the wonderful forumers here.
> 
> Below was my first try at WC by modding a H50 which did no better than the stock cooler due to Singapore hot climate. Our ambient temps goes up to 34C possibly higher.
> 
> 
> 
> And here's my humble rig after graduating to a custom loop. It's nothing compared to the other rigs here but im glad to be able to complete it on with my own hands.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question now is, can I join this club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards from sunny Singapore.


Sure looks like something to me! Thats an awesome build.

Well i joined yesterday so, i'll welcome you aboard


----------



## Neo Zuko

Hmmmm one thing I should consider with acrylic top water blocks is since I am hard lining, the acrylic tops might break somewhat easier for me than a soft tube loop. Are there a lot of acrylic top waterblock guys out there that are also using hard lines without issues?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Hmmmm one thing I should consider with acrylic top water blocks is since I am hard lining, the acrylic tops might break somewhat easier for me than a soft tube loop. Are there a lot of acrylic top waterblock guys out there that are also using hard lines without issues?


I wouldn't imagine you'd have any problems, unless your rig is situated in an unstable area that might cause your fittings to become detached. All you can do is make sure your acrylic tubing is very secure inside of your fittings. I chose to use C48's on mine in some places, but if that doesn't work, then I also have some C47's laying around as backups.

So have you decided on which acrylic fittings you'll be using? I opted for the Bitspower C47 & C48 crystal link fittings, because they're not as flashy as some of the other acrylic fittings out there.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2012.jpg.html


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Haha, nice! I have to unbolt my pump/res and then tilt it to fill it up :| Can't complain though, my system is like completely bled in an hour or so.


There's quite a few air bubbles stuck on the helix in the res, but the loop is ultra quiet so I'm almost positive my loop worked out all the bubbles too.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Can anyone help me identify this rad?
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/B64BpwS.jpg


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=3985

Only one I could find with the double bump on the fitting end and also the same angle cuts around the bolt plates


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=3985
> 
> Only one I could find with the double bump on the fitting end and also the same angle cuts around the bolt plates


+rep

Thank you!


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got some acrylic into the sth10 again, about 1/3rd of the way there for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I demand more pictures !!
The Caselabs SMA8 is growing into me, I'm wondering if I could fit a 240 UT60 or XT45 in front, keeping two 5.25" slots for an Aquaero 6 and a bluray drive on top of it, while having a 480 UT60 in push and a 360 Monsta push/pull, in front of the power supply, on the lower chamber. Oh and a 480 XT45 on top.


----------



## BWAS1000

People sell LC gear really cheap here. I'll be stalking these forums for a 120mm rad.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> People sell LC gear really cheap here. I'll be stalking these forums for a 120mm rad.


& Yet bites are still uncommon. I have brand new blocks 4sale for 20-30$ less than MSRP, and no one wants them.







Might be time to stick them on Amazon @ whole price.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> & Yet bites are still uncommon. I have brand new blocks 4sale for 20-30$ less than MSRP, and no one wants them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might be time to stick them on Amazon @ whole price.


Its a titan block (I think) maybe thats why. If that was a universal block, or a nice CPU block I was grabbing that ASAP.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The main loom is done!





Also de-stickered the drives. Looking at a AqC Hard drive cooler for two reasons,the HDD's get hot in this enclosure and it will allow me to double up on the single HDD caddy.












Also made a new insert panel for the front,the whole on/off will be Aquaero based with IR remote functionality.



Now off to do the SATA and molex feeds.....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Its a titan block (I think) maybe thats why. If that was a universal block, or a nice CPU block I was grabbing that ASAP.


They are 780/titan blocks, & CPU block...

After further inspection i'm almost positive the new titan blocks could be modified to fit 780Ti since they use the exact same cold plate. The stand offs are threaded, which leads me to believe you can simply unscrew them & move them to the correct holes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The main loom is done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also de-stickered the drives. Looking at a AqC Hard drive cooler for two reasons,the HDD's get hot in this enclosure and it will allow me to double up on the single HDD caddy.
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a new insert panel for the front,the whole on/off will be Aquaero based with IR remote functionality.
> 
> 
> 
> Now off to do the SATA and molex feeds.....


So, you can use the Aquearo for on/off? Does that involve the relay addon?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They are 780/titan blocks, & CPU block...
> 
> After further inspection i'm almost positive the new titan blocks could be modified to fit 780Ti since they use the exact same cold plate. The stand offs are threaded, which leads me to believe you can simply unscrew them & move them to the correct holes.


I believe the EK supremacy is the CPU block? I'd probably get it if I could afford it.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Its a titan block (I think) maybe thats why. If that was a universal block, or a nice CPU block I was grabbing that ASAP.


Yeah, I saw the blocks, but I have yet to get a second Titan. Right now I been lurking in there for a water block for my 7970 as I really want to water cool my folding rig. Kind of getting tried of the silverstone fans going full out speed in it.


----------



## stickg1

Stick got a new toy!


----------



## VSG




----------



## vieuxchnock

Can I join the club. This is my Prodigy G1-Killer;

















The components are in my sig.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vieuxchnock*
> 
> Can I join the club. This is my Prodigy G1-Killer;
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The components are in my sig.


That looks fantastic!









I love those straight runs.


----------



## Ash2097

Moved everything from my 650D into a Primo


----------



## unknown guy

so this is my first loop. using mayhems pastel red and had to add about a half a bottle of deep red and 2 drops of blue to get the color ive got now. it used to look pink






im liking this sli link


floating SSD's


just had to bolt them to the cage


this was taken before the dye was added


the closest to real color of the coolant


this, just looks cool. fan led's kinda looks like lava.


cut the plastic bits on the top cover and cut those annoying plastic bits on the front intake so you can see the fans better




couldn't get the drill in this case to cut a hole in the middle plate so i just used what was already there


almost forgot the drain and the bottom rad. i'm using a xspc ex360 crossflow for the top.


----------



## tjohn

Switched out my UV light for my old red led. The UV made my tubing look too pinky.



And in daylight...


----------



## royce5950

I'm bending some tubes as we speak so I'll probably have a new picture uploaded by the end of the night if I can get all of these tubes bent. I can't wait to get started on this new case though. I've seen builds with the C 70 and from what it looks like having open the box and tinkered with it already by removing the drive bays and such I really like that it's a simple case and it's a wide open area yet still a mid tower case... I'm still tempted to buy a larger full tower case like possibly one of the Obsidian cases that Corsair offers but time will tell and I still have probably a few days until I'm done with the one I'm currently working on.


----------



## BWAS1000

Alphacool DC-LT, anyone got any impressions on this pump?


----------



## Anoxy

I haven't used it myself, but I'd avoid it.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I haven't used it myself, but I'd avoid it.


Any reason? If I don't know why i'll probably end up using it.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Any reason? If I don't know why i'll probably end up using it.


I just haven't read anything good about it. I was doing some googling and it seems like most complaints are that it's very loud. If you already have one, you should try it out. But I don't see why you wouldn't just get a nice D5 instead....your pump is very important, not something you should skimp on.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I just haven't read anything good about it. I was doing some googling and it seems like most complaints are that it's very loud. If you already have one, you should try it out. But I don't see why you wouldn't just get a nice D5 instead....your pump is very important, not something you should skimp on.


I don't need a D5. The most I'd use is 2 240mm rads a CPU and a GPU . I think even then a D5 is more than what I need. I was looking at Phobyas DC12-220, just curious about this tiny pump.


----------



## pc-illiterate

avoid that dc-lt like the plague. horrible flow and pressure for a full loop. youre better off with a jingway pump(ek dcp-4.0 or whatever someone else calls it)


----------



## Kenjiwing

Question for you guys. I have the EK x3 250 res with the option multi port top http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html,

One of my multiports is leaking at the actual fitting (where it screws into the port on the res). The res mentions that a extender is needed if using specific ports. If you look at the multi port im using one of the top 3 ports. Is a extender needed to fix this? Also will a standard bitspower extender work because i lost the included EK ones a long time ago.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Question for you guys. I have the EK x3 250 res with the option multi port top http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html,
> 
> One of my multiports is leaking at the actual fitting (where it screws into the port on the res). The res mentions that a extender is needed if using specific ports. If you look at the multi port im using one of the top 3 ports. Is a extender needed to fix this? Also will a standard bitspower extender work because i lost the included EK ones a long time ago.


Most EK fittings are 17mm OD, and BP are 18mm.

If you have a recessed port, you'll need an EK extender to be able to fit into the recess.

That may be why you have a leak.

Darlene


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> avoid that dc-lt like the plague. horrible flow and pressure for a full loop. youre better off with a jingway pump(ek dcp-4.0 or whatever someone else calls it)


This. That pump just looks weak and cheap. Probably no better than an XSPC X2O 750

From reading your other posts, it sounds like you're trying to cut down on cost as much as possible. Just get a bmaverick DDC-1T like you mentioned earlier. They are great pumps for only $35. It will easily handle your proposed loop, plus future upgrades. I had one in a loop with CPU, SLI GPU blocks, 480mm radiator, and 240mm radiator and it had no problems.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Most EK fittings are 17mm OD, and BP are 18mm.
> 
> If you have a recessed port, you'll need an EK extender to be able to fit into the recess.
> 
> That may be why you have a leak.
> 
> Darlene


Ya the top 3 ports look to be recessed. Weird that it was okay for 3-4 months but just started leaking now. So are you saying the EK extenders are different sizes then the BP extenders? If so im pretty screwed and would hate to use a nickel extender when everything else in my build is black. I have a few BP extenders laying around and im doing acrylic so everything has a c47 in it.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> avoid that dc-lt like the plague. horrible flow and pressure for a full loop. youre better off with a jingway pump(ek dcp-4.0 or whatever someone else calls it)


I was just thinking it would be good for a secondary pump for redundancy.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This. That pump just looks weak and cheap. Probably no better than an XSPC X2O 750
> 
> From reading your other posts, it sounds like you're trying to cut down on cost as much as possible. Just get a bmaverick DDC-1T like you mentioned earlier. They are great pumps for only $35. It will easily handle your proposed loop, plus future upgrades. I had one in a loop with CPU, SLI GPU blocks, 480mm radiator, and 240mm radiator and it had no problems.


I was told the new X20 750 pump is way better than the others, I guess I'll have a pump and res spare if it fails.
I plan to get a bmaverick DDC one, i'm considering my alternatives in the odd chance he runs out.


----------



## skupples

Is XSPC the only company that makes triple DDC pump tops?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I was told the new X20 750 pump is way better than the others, I guess I'll have a pump and res spare if it fails.
> I plan to get a bmaverick DDC one, i'm considering my alternatives in the *odd* chance he runs out.


He's been selling those pumps for years and have never heard him even mention running low. I think one of his pumps would be your best bet.

IMO, ditch the X2O pump/res combo completely. Just get the Swiftech Micro res with the DDC-1T and buy the waterblock and radiator separately. To me, it seems like a waste of money to buy the XSPC pump/res combo solely for the waterblock and radiator


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I was told the new X20 750 pump is way better than the others, I guess I'll have a pump and res spare if it fails.
> I plan to get a bmaverick DDC one, i'm considering my alternatives in the odd chance he runs out.


It is way better than previous versions in that the pump won't fail or leak (not as likely anyways), but it still pales in comparison to a DDC or D5.


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Is XSPC the only company that makes triple DDC pump tops?


are you running 8 cards in SLI? why do you need 3 pumps?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> He's been selling those pumps for years and have never heard him even mention running low. I think one of his pumps would be your best bet.
> 
> IMO, ditch the X2O pump/res combo completely. Just get the Swiftech Micro res with the DDC-1T and buy the waterblock and radiator separately. To me, it seems like a waste of money to buy the XSPC pump/res combo solely for the waterblock and radiator


the entire kit is a great value, even if I ditch the pump/res. I'd get a raystorm, fans and a 240mm rad not to mention fittings and tubin AND some dead water for 150. I will be getting a DDC pump from him though, for sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> It is way better than previous versions in that the pump won't fail or leak (not as likely anyways), but it still pales in comparison to a DDC or D5.


This is what I'm concerned with. the 750 should be able to hand a CPU gpu and dual rad right?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> the entire kit is a great value, even if I ditch the pump/res. I'd get a raystorm, fans and a 240mm rad not to mention fittings and tubin AND some dead water for 150. I will be getting a DDC pump from him though, for sure.
> This is what I'm concerned with. the 750 should be able to hand a CPU gpu and dual rad right?


That's not really great value though. It's exactly what it's worth.

XSPC Raystorm - 50
Alphacool ST30 Radiator 240mm - 43
6' Primochill Advanced LRT (which is better than XSPC tubing) - 15
Biocide - 7
4 XSPC Compression Fittings - 16
2 XSPC 120mm Fans - 14

And if you piece it together, you're going to get a bit better stuff. Anyways, I think the XSPC Raystorm is a great kit if you get the D5 pump. If you're really hurting for money, buy used. I put together a full CPU+GPU loop for maybe 250 bucks (40% of that was the cost of the GPU waterblock).

I don't know the PSI specs off the top of my head. I'm guessing a 750 could handle a CPU+GPU, but I'm not sure.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> That's not really great value though. It's exactly what it's worth.
> 
> XSPC Raystorm - 50
> Alphacool ST30 Radiator 240mm - 43
> 6' Primochill Advanced LRT (which is better than XSPC tubing) - 15
> Biocide - 7
> 4 XSPC Compression Fittings - 16
> 2 XSPC 120mm Fans - 14
> 
> And if you piece it together, you're going to get a bit better stuff. Anyways, I think the XSPC Raystorm is a great kit if you get the D5 pump. If you're really hurting for money, buy used. I put together a full CPU+GPU loop for maybe 250 bucks (40% of that was the cost of the GPU waterblock).
> 
> I don't know the PSI specs off the top of my head. I'm guessing a 750 could handle a CPU+GPU, but I'm not sure.


I'm putting together 2 loops, one is for the S21, where I'll probably do used parts, but throw in the X20 750 pump/res
The other is for my arc mini where I'll use the other parts from the kit, the DDC and the MCres. My main appeal is getting both mounts for the raystorm. I'll be stalking the marketplace for good deals, but I have my mind set on that kit.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> are you running 8 cards in SLI? why do you *need* 3 pumps?












Do I need it? no. Do I need to build these computers? No. Why do I *want* a third pump? Because I would like to reduce the strain on the other two, while boosting flow rates @ the same time.


----------



## BWAS1000

Alright, you tell me if I need a D5 guys. I don't want to buy a 90 dollar pump if I don't need it.
one PC will have
CPU, GPU and 2x120mm rads, maybe a 3rd one if I feel bored. I think bmaverick DDC is fine? Maybe even the X20 750?
The other will have CPU GPU and a 240mm rad. If I feel adventurous or have spare cash a 2nd 240mm rad. Same thing? I think even if the 480mm rig needed more pump power then I'd get a 2nd DDC, which would still be cheaper than a D5. I don't want to get crappy parts., but I'm 15, I can't just "catch a vaps" (randomly feel the urge/vibe) and buy a D5 pump.


----------



## pc-illiterate

bmaverick has about 50 pumps left from last i talked to him. will post what he told me in an edit on this post.

*EDIT*
from email when i ordered my 2nd ddc from him jan 2nd this year

"Please at your convenience update my heatware at
www.heatware.com/eval.php?show=discussion&id=63611

PLEASE spread the word that I still have 50+ pumps saving the WCing community over $55
retail per pump!

BMaverick, meeting your DDC pump needs"


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> bmaverick has less than 50 pumps left from last i talked to him. will post what he told me in an edit on this post.


Well whatever then, pretty sure I can find another reliable pump.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Well whatever then, pretty sure I can find another reliable pump.


just send him a pm here or an email on his page

http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/

hes a great guy. you know he tests every pump before he ships them out, right?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> just send him a pm here or an email on his page
> 
> http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/
> 
> hes a great guy. you know he tests every pump before he ships them out, right?


I'll try to buy one soon, but if I can't get it quickly enough then I just consider my alternatives.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Alright, you tell me if I need a D5 guys. I don't want to buy a 90 dollar pump if I don't need it.
> one PC will have
> CPU, GPU and 2x120mm rads, maybe a 3rd one if I feel bored. I think bmaverick DDC is fine? Maybe even the X20 750?
> The other will have CPU GPU and a 240mm rad. If I feel adventurous or have spare cash a 2nd 240mm rad. Same thing? I think even if the 480mm rig needed more pump power then I'd get a 2nd DDC, which would still be cheaper than a D5. I don't want to get crappy parts., but I'm 15, I can't just "catch a vaps" (randomly feel the urge/vibe) and buy a D5 pump.


The ddc won't have any problem with either loop. Like I said earlier, I had one of his pumps in a loop with CPU, 2x GPU, 480mm rad and 240mm rad without a single hiccup. The bmaverick pump is your best option, imo

EDIT: damn phone auto-correct


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Alright, you tell me if I need a D5 guys. I don't want to buy a 90 dollar pump if I don't need it.
> one PC will have
> CPU, GPU and 2x120mm rads, maybe a 3rd one if I feel bored. I think bmaverick DDC is fine? Maybe even the X20 750?
> The other will have CPU GPU and a 240mm rad. If I feel adventurous or have spare cash a 2nd 240mm rad. Same thing? I think even if the 480mm rig needed more pump power then I'd get a 2nd DDC, which would still be cheaper than a D5. I don't want to get crappy parts., but I'm 15, I can't just "catch a vaps" (randomly feel the urge/vibe) and buy a D5 pump.


Yeah you don't _need_ a D5. But a pump is something that will carry with you for a long time through new builds, upgrades, or rebuilds. I personally would spend the extra money in case you decide to upgrade down the road, not to mention they are very reliable. I just like planning for the future.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> bmaverick has about 50 pumps left from last i talked to him. will post what he told me in an edit on this post.
> 
> *EDIT*
> from email when i ordered my 2nd ddc from him jan 2nd this year
> 
> "Please at your convenience update my heatware at
> www.heatware.com/eval.php?show=discussion&id=63611
> 
> PLEASE spread the word that I still have 50+ pumps saving the WCing community over $55
> retail per pump!
> 
> BMaverick, meeting your DDC pump needs"


too bad they are the 10 watt models. They would definitely work fine for a small loop though.


----------



## Deady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Sure looks like something to me! Thats an awesome build.
> 
> Well i joined yesterday so, i'll welcome you aboard


Thanks tjohn!

Gotta plan another build now since I don't have much to do on this one anymore.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> bmaverick has about 50 pumps left from last i talked to him. will post what he told me in an edit on this post.
> 
> *EDIT*
> from email when i ordered my 2nd ddc from him jan 2nd this year
> 
> "Please at your convenience update my heatware at
> www.heatware.com/eval.php?show=discussion&id=63611
> 
> PLEASE spread the word that I still have 50+ pumps saving the WCing community over $55
> retail per pump!
> 
> BMaverick, meeting your DDC pump needs"


Throw a SANYO based DIYINHK PCB and you are golden.

3 DDCs is IMO a bad idea. That is just too high of s flowrate. Good chance of damaging the PCBs from overheating.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> too bad they are the 10 watt models. They would definitely work fine for a small loop though.


stock top, they are as powerful as the ddc3.1 and with an aftermarket top they are down about 3.5-4psi at 1.5gpm
as far as a bit more power for $10 read what lowfat says.
but with 2 of these in my loop running about 9-10volts, its more than enough. ive ran them at 7volt but they are just as quiet at 10v.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Throw a SANYO based DIYINHK PCB and you are golden.


i have 2 of those pcb waiting for me to get a decent iron. the one i have now is for 'gotta have it done' emergencies.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Throw a SANYO based DIYINHK PCB and you are golden.
> 
> 3 DDCs is IMO a bad idea. That is just too high of s flowrate. Good chance of damaging the PCBs from overheating.


The point of three of them is to run them @ like 30-40% each, & since they don't turn on until 20%, that's like 1/3 power from each one. It's too late for me to add one of those now, unless it + a PWM PCB costs less than a mcp35x which I doubt. I know the standard DIY is like 10$, and the PWM module is 20$... That right there with shipping is what it would cost me to just order another 35x.


----------



## pc-illiterate

they dont have the pwm pcb anymore and according to lowfat i believe, it was junk.

dead from bmav ddc-1t $15
pwm pcb from diyinhk $19 + $4 shipping
which pump top you want? $20-30

$58-68 for an 18watt pwm controlled ddc pump. not bad if the pwm was not 'junk' as he put it.

edited for below comment by skupples

i didnt know they came back. they were out of stock and was told they wouldnt make more.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> they dont have the pwm pcb anymore and according to lowfat i believe, it was junk.


They are available, but @ the price they want (20$) it just doesn't make any sense, unless it was being used as an actual replacement module.


----------



## szeged

almost done redoing the acrylic, gotta make a few minor adjustments after the last tube is in


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Looking good, how many pipes have you gone through so far....


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Looking good, how many pipes have you gone through so far....


i ordered 5 again this time, i might order another two to fix the line going from the front rad to the cpu block, i have some weird distortion on that double bend near the rad, its nothing extremely noticable unless youre an inch away from the bends but im going for perfect here


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i ordered 5 again this time, i might order another two to fix the line going from the front rad to the cpu block, i have some weird distortion on that double bend near the rad, its nothing extremely noticable unless youre an inch away from the bends but im going for perfect here


I know what you mean. I bought 6 more sticks of E22 early last week, and within the same day they arrived (Friday), I had already gone through 2 of them with bends I will have to redo.

Part of me enjoys the process of bending now, but I have to remind myself that I have to pay a small fortune when I mess things up and have to order more. So now, I'm a bit more weary of bending when I try to realize an an acrylic pipe idea I might have had.


----------



## szeged

got the last tube in atm, definitely going to redo that tube from the cpu to the front rad, looks like a mess compared to the last one i just got done, ill show you guys in a few mins.


----------



## ledzepp3

Getting there... Soon Pastel Ice White coolant will be rushing through those acrylic lines- I can't freaking wait!







-Zepp


----------



## szeged

lookin good zepp

only thing i would change would be the run from the gpu to the ram block and from the right ram block to the cpu, id throw in some extra fittings to make them all 100% horizontal







but thats just personal preference. looks good anyways.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah you don't _need_ a D5. But a pump is something that will carry with you for a long time through new builds, upgrades, or rebuilds. I personally would spend the extra money in case you decide to upgrade down the road, not to mention they are very reliable. I just like planning for the future.


I don't mind it but I can't spare it.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey guys!

I've got a small question.
I'm building my first watercooled pc and I've mounted everything back in the case (I needed to cut some metal







) and I'm figuring out my tube routing.
This is what I have at this moment.
Though I've got a question, is there any way that I can use the top outlet port from my EK D5-Top as an inlet and connect it to my reservoir? It would look so much better as opposed to what I need to do now.


----------



## oelkanne

Quick Question: Koolance Set MB-ASR4E does fit for the Black Edition??


----------



## clone38

No its the older one.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> bmaverick has about 50 pumps left from last i talked to him. will post what he told me in an edit on this post.
> 
> *EDIT*
> from email when i ordered my 2nd ddc from him jan 2nd this year
> 
> "Please at your convenience update my heatware at
> www.heatware.com/eval.php?show=discussion&id=63611
> 
> PLEASE spread the word that I still have 50+ pumps saving the WCing community over $55
> retail per pump!
> 
> BMaverick, meeting your DDC pump needs"
> 
> 
> 
> Throw a SANYO based DIYINHK PCB and you are golden.
> 
> 
> 
> *3 DDCs is IMO a bad idea. That is just too high of s flowrate. Good chance of damaging the PCBs from overheating*.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Throw a SANYO based DIYINHK PCB and you are golden.
> 
> 3 DDCs is IMO a bad idea. That is just too high of s flowrate. Good chance of damaging the PCBs from overheating.
> 
> 
> 
> The point of three of them is to run them @ like 30-40% each, & since they don't turn on until 20%, that's like 1/3 power from each one. It's too late for me to add one of those now, unless it + a PWM PCB costs less than a mcp35x which I doubt. I know the standard DIY is like 10$, and the PWM module is 20$... That right there with shipping is what it would cost me to just order another 35x.
Click to expand...

You're forgetting that he's running dual PWM 35X's now, so the issue with overheating is no longer a concern.

If he adds one pump and a top to make a triple, he gains the ability to have the same flow rate at a lower RPM so it's a bit more quiet.

PWM control for pump speed is a wonderful thing









Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

3 pumps is a pointless exercise,you will gain nothing in terms of temp reduction.
From the limited testing I have seen with 3 pumps,the last in the series tends to fail,even with D5's with reduced voltage.

Personally,I would save the money and stick with 2.


----------



## fast_fate

And so another week starts - another great of batch of updates and new additions. Nice work everybody








well mostly everybody









As for me - I had more time with Curlicue, my old favorite.
Stripped down again after only 1 week








Few reasons why

wanted the psu for another project - so replaced the 1250w with a more appropriate 850w
wanted to flip the HeatKiller cpu block so inlet was at the bottom
wanted to remove the badges on the heat sinks
never was quite happy with the acrylic bend from flow indicator to cpu so wanted to re-do that line.



Spoiler: Last time we saw the old dog



 



First 3 stages of plan went smooth - then before starting to put the loop back together again I had change of plan.
Changed top rad to intake and added plexi shrouds.
added shrouds to the front fans
added muliti stage res stack with breather pipe on top - filled it up and it was bled after one pump shut off and top up - best ever !!!!

With a bit of discussion recently on personal preference for bends or fittings in acrylic loops I decided to put it back together with fittings rather than the bends - couple of the runs needed redoing anyway after the cpu flip so no dramas.
I decided to go with the threaded acrylic I've used before - I know not everyone likes these - again personal opinion comes into play. In fact only know of one other - serross69 - that has them and last I heard he isn't going to use them.
My aim was to have an acrylic loop as streamline as possible without doing any bending.

Couldn't replicate the same purple that I did last time







so in the end added a drop of UV green.
This looks really strange as depending on the light (daylight or normal lamp) the UV green isn't solid and sometimes looks purple, sometimes green with slight viewing angle change. imo looks good.

Leak test completed








fan controller, pump flow monitor and new 3Tb HDD to go up top in the bays.

Might as well mention that both loops run at identical flow rates with the D5's both on setting 5 - that is silent to me








3.4 lts p/m or 1 gallon p/m is what Koolance flow meter tells me.

So - which do you like better - bends or fittings, after seeing both in the same rig


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> And so another week starts - another great of batch of updates and new additions. Nice work everybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well mostly everybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for me - I had more time with Curlicue, my old favorite.
> Stripped down again after only 1 week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few reasons why
> 
> wanted the psu for another project - so replaced the 1250w with a more appropriate 850w
> wanted to flip the HeatKiller cpu block so inlet was at the bottom
> wanted to remove the badges on the heat sinks
> never was quite happy with the acrylic bend from flow indicator to cpu so wanted to re-do that line.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Last time we saw the old dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First 3 stages of plan went smooth - then before starting to put the loop back together again I had change of plan.
> Changed top rad to intake and added plexi shrouds.
> added shrouds to the front fans
> added muliti stage res stack with breather pipe on top - filled it up and it was bled after one pump shut off and top up - best ever !!!!
> 
> With a bit of discussion recently on personal preference for bends or fittings in acrylic loops I decided to put it back together with fittings rather than the bends - couple of the runs needed redoing anyway after the cpu flip so no dramas.
> I decided to go with the threaded acrylic I've used before - I know not everyone likes these - again personal opinion comes into play. In fact only know of one other - serross69 - that has them and last I heard he isn't going to use them.
> My aim was to have an acrylic loop as streamline as possible without doing any bending.
> 
> Couldn't replicate the same purple that I did last time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so in the end added a drop of UV green.
> This looks really strange as depending on the light (daylight or normal lamp) the UV green isn't solid and sometimes looks purple, sometimes green with slight viewing angle change. imo looks good.
> 
> Leak test completed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fan controller, pump flow monitor and new 3Tb HDD to go up top in the bays.
> 
> Might as well mention that both loops run at identical flow rates with the D5's both on setting 5 - that is silent to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.4 lts p/m or 1 gallon p/m is what Koolance flow meter tells me.
> 
> So - which do you like better - bends or fittings, after seeing both in the same rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like....a lot


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> And so another week starts - another great of batch of updates and new additions. Nice work everybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well mostly everybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for me - I had more time with Curlicue, my old favorite.
> Stripped down again after only 1 week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few reasons why
> 
> wanted the psu for another project - so replaced the 1250w with a more appropriate 850w
> wanted to flip the HeatKiller cpu block so inlet was at the bottom
> wanted to remove the badges on the heat sinks
> never was quite happy with the acrylic bend from flow indicator to cpu so wanted to re-do that line.
> First 3 stages of plan went smooth - then before starting to put the loop back together again I had change of plan.
> Changed top rad to intake and added plexi shrouds.
> added shrouds to the front fans
> added muliti stage res stack with breather pipe on top - filled it up and it was bled after one pump shut off and top up - best ever !!!!
> 
> With a bit of discussion recently on personal preference for bends or fittings in acrylic loops I decided to put it back together with fittings rather than the bends - couple of the runs needed redoing anyway after the cpu flip so no dramas.
> I decided to go with the threaded acrylic I've used before - I know not everyone likes these - again personal opinion comes into play. In fact only know of one other - serross69 - that has them and last I heard he isn't going to use them.
> My aim was to have an acrylic loop as streamline as possible without doing any bending.
> 
> Couldn't replicate the same purple that I did last time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so in the end added a drop of UV green.
> This looks really strange as depending on the light (daylight or normal lamp) the UV green isn't solid and sometimes looks purple, sometimes green with slight viewing angle change. imo looks good.
> 
> Leak test completed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fan controller, pump flow monitor and new 3Tb HDD to go up top in the bays.
> 
> Might as well mention that both loops run at identical flow rates with the D5's both on setting 5 - that is silent to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.4 lts p/m or 1 gallon p/m is what Koolance flow meter tells me.
> 
> So - which do you like better - bends or fittings, after seeing both in the same rig


As much as I love bending acrylic tubes, I like the new one better
it looks so industrial and tidy
I think your rig just cant get any better, perfecto...


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Love the TJ07's. Sad really, I've got one here at home that has been here two years, and never had a system in it yet.


Are you willing to sell it though?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Wow, so many fittings! Looks beautiful!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> And so another week starts - another great of batch of updates and new additions. Nice work everybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well mostly everybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for me - I had more time with Curlicue, my old favorite.
> Stripped down again after only 1 week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few reasons why
> 
> wanted the psu for another project - so replaced the 1250w with a more appropriate 850w
> wanted to flip the HeatKiller cpu block so inlet was at the bottom
> wanted to remove the badges on the heat sinks
> never was quite happy with the acrylic bend from flow indicator to cpu so wanted to re-do that line.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Last time we saw the old dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First 3 stages of plan went smooth - then before starting to put the loop back together again I had change of plan.
> Changed top rad to intake and added plexi shrouds.
> added shrouds to the front fans
> added muliti stage res stack with breather pipe on top - filled it up and it was bled after one pump shut off and top up - best ever !!!!
> 
> With a bit of discussion recently on personal preference for bends or fittings in acrylic loops I decided to put it back together with fittings rather than the bends - couple of the runs needed redoing anyway after the cpu flip so no dramas.
> I decided to go with the threaded acrylic I've used before - I know not everyone likes these - again personal opinion comes into play. In fact only know of one other - serross69 - that has them and last I heard he isn't going to use them.
> My aim was to have an acrylic loop as streamline as possible without doing any bending.
> 
> Couldn't replicate the same purple that I did last time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so in the end added a drop of UV green.
> This looks really strange as depending on the light (daylight or normal lamp) the UV green isn't solid and sometimes looks purple, sometimes green with slight viewing angle change. imo looks good.
> 
> Leak test completed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fan controller, pump flow monitor and new 3Tb HDD to go up top in the bays.
> 
> Might as well mention that both loops run at identical flow rates with the D5's both on setting 5 - that is silent to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.4 lts p/m or 1 gallon p/m is what Koolance flow meter tells me.
> 
> So - which do you like better - bends or fittings, after seeing both in the same rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good







what no purple


----------



## fast_fate

Thanks Fellas









Guess I'ld be the only one in the boat for bends if it were to set sail now.
I'm not going to change it because the loop is a rippa as it is - but I do love a good bend up









@DB - my chemistry failed me - I tried for the same purple - believe me !!!
That flow meter's spinning wheel is actually white - so you can see that the purple I blended just wasn't right this time.
As mentioned above - depending on where you look at it, sometimes it looks that purple in the tubes also.
Very strange, even stranger is when tube appears to have both green and purple at same time








The dark green / odd purple I'm happy enough with so it can stay


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now that you mention it I see the green in the tubes while the flow meter is purple


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I decided to go with the threaded acrylic I've used before


Can you give anymore details on this? First time I've seen or heard of threaded tuning. Does it only come in pre cut length or you thread them yourself?

Thank you


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> I've got a small question.
> I'm building my first watercooled pc and I've mounted everything back in the case (I needed to cut some metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I'm figuring out my tube routing.
> This is what I have at this moment.
> Though I've got a question, is there any way that I can use the top outlet port from my EK D5-Top as an inlet and connect it to my reservoir? It would look so much better as opposed to what I need to do now.


Someone pls?


----------



## VSG

Sorry you can't switch inlets and outlets on a pump. What you can do instead is get one of those UNI mounts and install the pump at 90 degrees to what you got there making it conducive to what you want.

Edit: Realized you may well not be a man


----------



## SlvrDragon50

The EK Top has only ONE inlet. You need to use that one.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Someone pls?


Outlet means outlet - not sure what else to add.
On the pump top you have two outlets to choose from, choose most suitable for you.
and one inlet port which must be used as inlet from reservoir.
so NO, sorry but you can not do as you wanted.
You could consider the pump top on top of the pump, so inlet and outlet would be facing up


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sorry you can't switch inlets and outlets on a pump. What you can do instead is get one of those UNI mounts and install the pump at 90 degrees to what you got there making it conducive to what you want.
> 
> Edit: Realized you may well not be a man


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> The EK Top has only ONE inlet. You need to use that one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Outlet means outlet - not sure what else to add.
> On the pump top you have two outlets to choose from, choose most suitable for you.
> and one inlet port which must be used as inlet from reservoir.
> so NO, sorry but you can not do as you wanted.
> You could consider the pump top on top of the pump, so inlet and outlet would be facing up


Thx! Just wanted to be sure, you never know what's possible









@geggeg,







you are correct
Not a man indeed


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well looks like my BGears on push on my top 240 rad aren't cutting it, so I snagged a couple of Delta AFC1212DE-PWM Fans (3900 RPM / 148.34 CFM / 12.5 mmH2O) thinks those will move enough air through the rad for me


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I hope you have that sound system blasting all the time!!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Can you give anymore details on this? First time I've seen or heard of threaded tuning. Does it only come in pre cut length or you thread them yourself?
> 
> Thank you


The threaded acrylic tube is internally tapped G1/4
When I got them from China supplier I had not seen them advertised anywhere for sale yet.
Now I believe that PPCs might have them ??? and Darlene posted a while back that MODDiy has them available - again ?? as I haven't tried to source them.
Distributed with the Barrow branding - unsure of retail pricing.
  

dodgy video I did last year to test for water tight seal when screwing male fittings in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyvY2IliSwI&feature=player_embedded


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> I've got a small question.
> I'm building my first watercooled pc and I've mounted everything back in the case (I needed to cut some metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I'm figuring out my tube routing.
> This is what I have at this moment.
> Though I've got a question, is there any way that I can use the top outlet port from my EK D5-Top as an inlet and connect it to my reservoir? It would look so much better as opposed to what I need to do now.


the center of the top IS the inlet.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I hope you have that sound system blasting all the time!!


Lol oh I do, or I'm wearing my Triton Kunai's on







fan noise doesn't really bother me too much really.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> I've got a small question.
> I'm building my first watercooled pc and I've mounted everything back in the case (I needed to cut some metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I'm figuring out my tube routing.
> This is what I have at this moment.
> Though I've got a question, is there any way that I can use the top outlet port from my EK D5-Top as an inlet and connect it to my reservoir? It would look so much better as opposed to what I need to do now.


Unfortunately no, that's about the only downside to that pump top, only 1 inlet and two outlets.........

Also, did you get those GPU blocks secondhand or new? It's unusual to see the QC sticker on the exposed edge of that top card.


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Can anyone help me identify this rad?
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/B64BpwS.jpg


Looks like the Black Ice 240 or Phobya Xtreme


----------



## pc-illiterate

sparkles, flip both your rads around. turn your pump top so the side outlet is out the right not the 'top'.



follow the green lines.

edited because paint derped me.


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> almost done redoing the acrylic, gotta make a few minor adjustments after the last tube is in






Very nice runs, cant wait to see what the finished product looks like.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The threaded acrylic tube is internally tapped G1/4


Thanks for all the info. How's it worked out for you. Looks like it would be pretty secure compared to say bits power acrylic fittings.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> sparkles, flip both your rads around. turn your pump top so the side outlet is out the right not the 'top'.
> 
> 
> 
> follow the green lines.
> 
> edited because paint derped me.


Unless he drills a hole in the upper bays, I don't think he's going to be making that rad 1 -> rad 2 connection. I think the top rad has to stay in the orientation it is in now.


----------



## Kenjiwing

How do you guys fill your loops? I have a open port on the top of my res and was thinking about the easiest way to fill it. Ive seriously ran a funnel down to it before but im tired of all that work.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Install a fill port. Otherwise, that is the easiest way to fill up the loop.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> How do you guys fill your loops? I have a open port on the top of my res and was thinking about the easiest way to fill it. Ive seriously ran a funnel down to it before but im tired of all that work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Install a fill port. Otherwise, that is the easiest way to fill up the loop.


I agree... thats what I've done for my dual loops. See in the top center there are the two fill ports and the bottom corners are the drain ports. Will make things much simpler.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Id have to drill a hole in the top of my case for a fill port and not really interested in doing that. Any other ideas?


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Id have to drill a hole in the top of my case for a fill port and not really interested in doing that. Any other ideas?


Let's see your system and perhaps we can throw an idea at you.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Let's see your system and perhaps we can throw an idea at you.


My build



At the top of the res is 3 ports. Im using one of them to fill it. The way ive been filling it is a funnel ran down from the top large hole (that has the acrylic glass in it) and slowly pouring the water into the funnel and making sure it doesnt spill. This takes forever and can get messy.

I was thinking about something like a squirt bottle that I could fill and put directly in the hole of the res.


----------



## SinatraFan

you could always pick up a barbed connector like this...



and install it in the top of the res when you need to fill, connect a spare length of tube to it, then fill it with a funnel, syringe, etc, but the important thing is, its easier to do.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> How do you guys fill your loops? I have a open port on the top of my res and was thinking about the easiest way to fill it. Ive seriously ran a funnel down to it before but im tired of all that work.


I drilled an access hole through the top of my case to gain access to one of the ports in my top rad. It's cut an hour off of bleeding time.


----------



## BWAS1000

Screw it, you guys convinced me, any D5 variant better than another?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Screw it, you guys convinced me, any D5 variant better than another?


I prefer the Alphacool D5 variable speed units, there the only D5 I've used that has never broken down. I've had three different swiftech D5's die personally, so I won't use one from them again. But that's just from my experience.


----------



## szeged

my xspc d5 vario hasnt given me a single problem yet, and from what ive seen its around $10 cheaper but is the same as the other D5s.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> How do you guys fill your loops? I have a open port on the top of my res and was thinking about the easiest way to fill it. Ive seriously ran a funnel down to it before but im tired of all that work.


Use one of these


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Use one of these


Lol ya thats what I was thinking about getting.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Screw it, you guys convinced me, any D5 variant better than another?


I am going to get one of these http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump.html

Actually this one: EK-D5 Vario Motor (12V DC Pump Motor)
I was initially going for a Laing D5-MCP655 (Swiftech) but that one is 25 euro more expensive (like 1/4th more) and I did some research and they are basically the same I guess.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Screw it, you guys convinced me, any D5 variant better than another?


My favorite top is the one from bitspower


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> My favorite top is the one from bitspower


It would seem just personal preference, I'll go with the cheapest. Also, DDC vs D5, which one? I like DDC for size.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> It would seem just personal preference, I'll go with the cheapest. Also, DDC vs D5, which one? I like DDC for size.


D5 is much better than the DDC for sure

Also the bitspower top has more inputs and outputs, so its easier to find a place for it, but other than that, you're right its mostly personal preference


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> D5 is much better than the DDC for sure
> 
> Also the bitspower top has more inputs and outputs, so its easier to find a place for it, but other than that, you're right its mostly personal preference


The Swiftech MCP655 is cheapest D5 at 90USD right now. Wallet brace yourself for impact.


----------



## Kimir

Oh well, since my build is on hold because of non availability of power supply and delayed choice of case, I decided to look at my Alphacool rads I already have.
Looking good from this view, right?

Now the good side, all good except the paint on the 480:

The bad side (480), the 360 as good as the other side:

a closer look on the 480 (yeah forgot I was on f2.8 on previous picture, me likey small dof







) at f8


I should contact my e-tailer right?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Acool's paint is often like that, is it not?

They claim thinner coverage = better temps or something.

Correct me if I'm wrong!

As for THAT mess, beat someone with it. Blunt the rest!

Thanks - T


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> The Swiftech MCP655 is cheapest D5 at 90USD right now. Wallet brace yourself for impact.


check this one out, its 80, and its the MCP655-B


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> check this one out, its 80, and its the MCP655-B


What site? its not on frozen cpu.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> What site? its not on frozen cpu.


Don't get the B. You want the variable speed pump, otherwise you'll need a voltage reducer for the pump. You wanna hear a D5 yelling at full speed?







Trust me, it's worth the $10 extra mate.

-Zepp


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> What site? its not on frozen cpu.


If you don't need the housing, you can get the single version for 80 bucks in most places.

for example: XSPC D5 Vario


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Don't get the B. You want the variable speed pump, otherwise you'll need a voltage reducer for the pump. You wanna hear a D5 yelling at full speed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trust me, it's worth the $10 extra mate.
> 
> -Zepp


i have the variable version, but i run it full speed all the time, and never hear i thing, its 100% silent, at least in my experience


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Acool's paint is often like that, is it not?
> 
> They claim thinner coverage = better temps or something.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong!
> 
> As for THAT mess, beat someone with it. Blunt the rest!
> 
> Thanks - T


Yeah the paint don't bother me at all, but god those fins,


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> The Swiftech MCP655 is cheapest D5 at 90USD right now. Wallet brace yourself for impact.


if you do look at the B version here's a link, http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=33678


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Don't get the B. You want the variable speed pump, otherwise you'll need a voltage reducer for the pump. You wanna hear a D5 yelling at full speed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trust me, it's worth the $10 extra mate.
> 
> -Zepp


I kinda have a spare rheostat, its 2.79 for a random chinese one, and I kinda wanted another one anyway. Well actually just a splitter, one for my rad fan one for another fan, but if I can just use the rheostat I'd prefer it. its only 10W though so I might as well get the variable.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> i have the variable version, but i run it full speed all the time, and never hear i thing, its 100% silent, at least in my experience


The problem is this: your quiet is different from his, or mine. People have different tolerance levels, which is why I typically don't say things are "quiet", because in a way it's subjective. I don't think there's a scientific definition of quiet







that'd make recommending fans and pumps so much easier..

-Zepp


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> If you don't need the housing, you can get the single version for 80 bucks in most places.
> 
> for example: XSPC D5 Vario


Nope, I'll be needing that.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> The problem is this: your quiet is different from his, or mine. People have different tolerance levels, which is why I typically don't say things are "quiet", because in a way it's subjective. I don't think there's a scientific definition of quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that'd make recommending fans and pumps so much easier..
> 
> -Zepp


notice i didn't say quiet =P
honestly my 19db fans are louder than that pump at full speed


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> D5 is much better than the DDC for sure


wrong. plenty here will attest to that. if wermad had his pc and net up right now, he would be laughing at you.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> notice i didn't say quiet =P
> honestly my 19db fans are louder than that pump at full speed


Quiet and silent fall under the same subjective category. Bitfenix claims their Specter fans are "silent"- and every time I've heard them, they're definitely not silent. I'm hearing impaired (almost half deaf) in my left ear, so my definition of "silent" will vary from yours. Too many variables are involved with the environment, the number of pumps, and of course the human variable too







it needs to be more simple...

-Zepp


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wrong. plenty here will attest to that. if wermad had his pc and net up right now, he would be laughing at you.


possibly however, D5 has more than twice the flow, D5 being up to 1500L/H and DDC being up to 600L/H, and with a bit lower head pressure, D5 being 3.1m and DDC being 4.7m.
so with one or two Waterblocks D5 would be the better choice, however if you're running a lot of water blocks, especially in parallel then the DDC would be the better choice.

Edit: D5 is up to 1200L/H
Edit: DDC is up to 900L/H


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Quiet and silent fall under the same subjective category. Bitfenix claims their Specter fans are "silent"- and every time I've heard them, they're definitely not silent. I'm hearing impaired (almost half deaf) in my left ear, so my definition of "silent" will vary from yours. Too many variables are involved with the environment, the number of pumps, and of course the human variable too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it needs to be more simple...
> 
> -Zepp


very true, i don't disagree with you on that point, not one bit.
but my point was that compared to the "silent" fans at 19dB, the D5 is much quieter (from my experience).
but as always everything is an opinion, so, in agreement with you, its up to the user to determine quiet.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

It's all a matter of opinion. D5 is better than the DDC for sure if you don't need the head pressure.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> It's all a matter of opinion. D5 is better than the DDC for sure if you don't need the head pressure.


which was my point, but you were correct that in different situations the DDC can be better than D5.


----------



## pc-illiterate

a 12v d5 is 1200l/h
and it would depend on blocks. in parallel you would be better with a d5 for the flow because you wouldnt need the pressure.
and you better go look at the 35x pumps which are ddc. and they are VERY efficient compared to a d5.

free flow numbers dont mean much. its the pressure and flow you get in your loop that matters.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thanks for all the info. How's it worked out for you. Looks like it would be pretty secure compared to say bits power acrylic fittings.


Frustrating at times I will admit









There is no flex in these tubes as quite thick to have the threads tapped out on the ends.
Lengths and connecting angles have to be exact - more so even than using regular acrylic tube - you can't just cut a smidge off to get the right length or heat up to tweak an angle to fit








The threaded end isn't too thick and _they will crack_ *if* the "length's" fittings are not lined up perfectly and spaced apart same length as the threaded tube.
I think the only "flex" you get is in the rotary fittings and you'ld be asking for failure and leaks if pushing on them too much at all.

*Remember this* - no flex in tube, and weakest point is the thread - and they will crack / shatter if you haven't got the fittings lined up and spaced pretty much perfectly.

As a rule rotary fittings must be used on at least one end of each length to enable screwing together.
On those lengths where rotaries just won't fit (too long, too short whatever) tube must be installed first with it's male/male fitting of appropriate length on each end.....

The best example of how important the rotaries are is the gpu to cpu run.
I first first did the horizontal heading toward cpu as short as possible - (no rotary so had to put in place first)
Then added a vertical tube below that - now this didn't line up exactly for a tube from gpu without kicking off on a very slight angle (very slight BUT not 90 degrees)
However...
with the rotaries on the top of the vertical and a male/male rotary between the 2 90s exiting the gpu I was able to point the two fittings directly at each other for the tube.


Spoiler: gpu > cpu


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> a 12v d5 is 1200l/h
> and it would depend on blocks. in parallel you would be better with a d5 for the flow because you wouldnt need the pressure.
> and you better go look at the 35x pumps which are ddc. and they are VERY efficient compared to a d5.
> 
> free flow numbers dont mean much. its the pressure and flow you get in your loop that matters.


agreed, sorry im tired right now, mix up parralel and series when im tired.
i had already put an edit for the D5, but i just changed the DDC to 900, i wasnt aware that 35x was also a DDC
I'm gonna stop, but yes you are correct, but i am also correct in that the D5 can be better than DDC in different situations


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> What site? its not on frozen cpu.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get the B. You want the variable speed pump, otherwise you'll need a voltage reducer for the pump. You wanna hear a D5 yelling at full speed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trust me, it's worth the $10 extra mate.
> 
> -Zepp
Click to expand...

The b spec runs at setting 4,not 5. It doesn't run at full speed like the vario


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Ah psh. Like a D5 on setting 4 is loud anyways.

Fans are louder.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> the D5 can be better than DDC in different situations


exactly. the d5 is considered more reliable BUT from all ive read, the ddc failures were because they overheated. they both have their uses and benefits. thats all i was pointing out.
even the dcp 4.0/dp 400 is a very good pump. it got a bad rep because the earliest pumps were dieing for whatever reason. i have 1 here thats 2 years old and still going as strong as it was the day it was bought. granted these pumps are made for very low ambient with low deltas. their life expectancy is based on a 25*C water temp.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

True, cant hear my pump at setting 5 over my fans at 1200 rpm....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Ah psh. Like a D5 on setting 4 is loud anyways.
> 
> Fans are louder.


It depends on the fans, but I know that I can't hear my MCP655-B over the sound of my fans.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> the D5 can be better than DDC in different situations
> 
> 
> 
> exactly. the d5 is considered more reliable BUT from all ive read, the ddc failures were because they overheated. they both have their uses and benefits. thats all i was pointing out.
> even the dcp 4.0/dp 400 is a very good pump. it got a bad rep because the earliest pumps were dieing for whatever reason. i have 1 here thats 2 years old and still going as strong as it was the day it was bought. granted these pumps are made for very low ambient with low deltas. their life expectancy is based on a 25*C water temp.
Click to expand...

The Jingway is a solid pump,weighs like a brick.

DOC's also have a face seal o ring which,when badly installed,allows water ingress into the electronics.

For me,it's D5 for days.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> a 12v d5 is 1200l/h
> and it would depend on blocks. in parallel you would be better with a d5 for the flow because you wouldnt need the pressure.
> and you better go look at the 35x pumps which are ddc. and they are VERY efficient compared to a d5.
> 
> free flow numbers don't mean much. its the pressure and flow you get in your loop that matters.


Exactly - free flow numbers mean nothing for flows in a loop
Even If pumps are from same manufacturer (as most of ours are) the data offered is next to useless without in application testing
Add any kind of restriction and those figures are no longer relevant at all.

Which is why we respect and value so highly the efforts of our testers over the years









D5 spec - 12v d5 is up to 1200l/hr








Vs real life
D5 vario in loop attached to Koolance Bay-res as in my previous post - pump > 2 x gpu > cpu > 280 > flow meter > 240
D5 at setting 5 = 122 l/hr
Dual D5 at setting 5 = 204 l/hr


----------



## ikem

ran my new pump up on sunday night. flowed 1100gpm or 249,840 l/h.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Ah psh. Like a D5 on setting 4 is loud anyways.
> 
> Fans are louder.


Dude, your either smokin' rocks or have had some bad D5's. i can't even hear my D5's hum unless i have my ear to the motor housing, and yes, they are running


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Dude, your either smokin' rocks or have had some bad D5's. i can't even hear my D5's hum unless i have my ear to the motor housing, and yes, they are running


You didn't read my post correctly.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

this how it will be for the rest of the year


----------



## stickg1

Anyone here tried one of these before?



http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ddc-series/ek-ddc-heatsink-cover-nickel.html

I'm interested in mostly the aesthetics, but if it helps the pump run cooler that is always a plus. However if it's a piece of junk I wont even bother.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> this how it will be for the rest of the year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good







....For the rest of the year is along time







....If ''stickg1'' had said that i wouldnt believe him....


----------



## stickg1

LOL

I keep gettin you two Reggae Boyz confused. I thought that was Reapers build and I was thinking, wow that's quit the overhaul because it had completely changed!

Two different builders!

And yes, I change things a lot, this is true!


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh well, since my build is on hold because of non availability of power supply and delayed choice of case, I decided to look at my Alphacool rads I already have.
> Looking good from this view, right?
> 
> Now the good side, all good except the paint on the 480:
> 
> The bad side (480), the 360 as good as the other side:
> 
> a closer look on the 480 (yeah forgot I was on f2.8 on previous picture, me likey small dof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) at f8
> 
> 
> I should contact my e-tailer right?


that's perfectly normal. You should actually d relieved that you got a normal radiator. Most radiators and radiator manufactures have realized that you get better performance and better cooling out of products that are bare copper rather than painted. and if you have a fan on that side nobody will notice... you should go back and look at the listing because I'm sure that it says somewhere copper edition or bare copper or something along those lines somewhere in the listing whether you bought it off of frozen CPU or performance PCs... All the websites are usually pretty well at describing their items and copper Edition is usually what alpha cool will say to describe what you noticed


----------



## royce5950

it took me about 1 and a half primpchill 4 packs of tubing before I was 100% satisfied with my bends and actually willing to put them into a build. When I first got into watercooling and I saw hard tubing I ofcourse wanted to do it and I instantly ordered some tubes and went and got a heat gun. Intact it was the stupid insert tube primochill makes that ruined my first 4 pack. I twisted, I soaked in water with dish soap, I used lube, silicone grease... NOTHING! so I bought a new primochill silicone tube and another 4 pack and half way through I about lost it... So I paid the 17dollars plus shipping and got the ek bending kit and in 1 hour it was smooth sailing and I'm almost done hard tubing this storm trooper build and I look forward to going at it again on my next build as well.

I think this is funny looking back at a saved cart I have on frozencpu, it has like literally twenty 90 and 45 degree rotary fittings in the cart because I thought bending the tubes would be the hardest thing I had ever done!! Lol. So I would have had literally a build with braces and headgear intwined in it lol. Just thought I'd share lol


----------



## mistacheese

^^ what he said re rads. I did the same thing when I got mine.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....For the rest of the year is along time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....If ''stickg1'' had said that i wouldnt believe him....


lol knowing me don't take my word for it....it just looks soo good I feel like I wont be touching for a while


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> that's perfectly normal. You should actually d relieved that you got a normal radiator. Most radiators and radiator manufactures have realized that you get better performance and better cooling out of products that are bare copper rather than painted. and if you have a fan on that side nobody will notice... you should go back and look at the listing because I'm sure that it says somewhere copper edition or bare copper or something along those lines somewhere in the listing whether you bought it off of frozen CPU or performance PCs... All the websites are usually pretty well at describing their items and copper Edition is usually what alpha cool will say to describe what you noticed


You don't seem to understand that my only concern was the totally screwed fins and not the color. But whatever. And since I'm in Europe, no I don't buy from perf. Pc or Frozencpu.


----------



## kpoeticg

Bent fins are nothing to worry about as long as the channels are in tact. Just bend em back. Fins aren't as fragile as most people think. Just cut the ends off a q-tip and stick the hard part in there and straighten em. Or a screwdriver or anything else...

As long as it doesn't leak, it's fine. I def recommend fixing em though


----------



## Kimir

I know, bend them back. I did that on my Fractal rig.
If you look at the last picture at full resolution (full hd) at the focus point, you should be able to see that there not much to bend back because the top of the fins are... I don't know how to say that in English... Cut /scrapped.
Heading to bed now, will see tomorrow what I can do. All that is sure is more aesthetic than anything.


----------



## hfcobra

Finally joining the ranks of water cooling! This is my first build. I haven't even turned the system on yet in this state.


----------



## waveaddict

Anyone used these Akasa piranha's for rad fans?
Thinking of using them in p/p on a XT45 360



Specifications:
Dimension 120 X 120 X 25mm
Bearing HDB (Hydro Dynamic Bearing)
Speed 600-1900 RPM
Max airflow 79.13 CFM
Sound level 6.4-27.2 dB(A)
Max static air pressure 3.04 mm-H2O
Rated voltage 12V
Connector PWM-4pin
Product code AK-FN072


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> LOL
> 
> I keep gettin you two Reggae Boyz confused. I thought that was Reapers build and I was thinking, wow that's quit the overhaul because it had completely changed!
> 
> Two different builders!
> 
> And yes, I change things a lot, this is true!


Hahahaha reggae boyz good one







....No major overhaul for me,the most i will do is try acrylic....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hfcobra*
> 
> Finally joining the ranks of water cooling! This is my first build. I haven't even turned the system on yet in this state.


You didn't even POST the rig to make sure the CPU/Mobo/ram work????

Edit: nevermind, just saw the "in this state" part, my bad!









Watching my son and trying to read these posts on my mobile.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hfcobra*
> 
> Finally joining the ranks of water cooling! This is my first build. I haven't even turned the system on yet in this state.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

Thank you newegg for more discounts on the Cougars











Only one 120 this time but many, many 140s for new upcoming build. Already have 15 in a temporary rig


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> it took me about 1 and a half primpchill 4 packs of tubing before I was 100% satisfied with my bends and actually willing to put them into a build. When I first got into watercooling and I saw hard tubing I ofcourse wanted to do it and I instantly ordered some tubes and went and got a heat gun. Intact it was the stupid insert tube primochill makes that ruined my first 4 pack. I twisted, I soaked in water with dish soap, I used lube, silicone grease... NOTHING! so I bought a new primochill silicone tube and another 4 pack and half way through I about lost it... So I paid the 17dollars plus shipping and got the ek bending kit and in 1 hour it was smooth sailing and I'm almost done hard tubing this storm trooper build and I look forward to going at it again on my next build as well.
> 
> I think this is funny looking back at a saved cart I have on frozencpu, it has like literally twenty 90 and 45 degree rotary fittings in the cart because I thought bending the tubes would be the hardest thing I had ever done!! Lol. So I would have had literally a build with braces and headgear intwined in it lol. Just thought I'd share lol


Do you have a link to this EK bending kit you're talking about....?


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Nope, I'll be needing that.


Hey don't forget to shop around a bit too bud. Since you "technically" located in the US you have several diff. companies to choose from other than Frozen.
Don't forget to check out Xocide as well... they don't have anywhere near the inventory of say Frozen or aquaComputer but they do have "clearance" sales that change every week.
Just something to check out


----------



## unknown guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone here tried one of these before?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ddc-series/ek-ddc-heatsink-cover-nickel.html
> 
> I'm interested in mostly the aesthetics, but if it helps the pump run cooler that is always a plus. However if it's a piece of junk I wont even bother.


Im using one right now. it gets warm to the touch after the pump has been running for a bit. and the rubber mounts do their job nicely.


----------



## skupples

@BramSLI1

Hey, sorry to summon you... Have you ever seen some one mate a D5, or even dual D5's to a maelstrom? In my mind it seems like it would work, assuming D5's are just about the same size as DDC's.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Hey don't forget to shop around a bit too bud. Since you "technically" located in the US you have several diff. companies to choose from other than Frozen.
> Don't forget to check out Xocide as well... they don't have anywhere near the inventory of say Frozen or aquaComputer but they do have "clearance" sales that change every week.
> Just something to check out


Yeah thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to check them out.


----------



## royce5950

If your not already using one of these mini levelers you definitely should get your hands on one they're usually 50 cents to $1 at hardware stores but their easy to acquire and they're really easy to test the angle of your rigid tubing lines to achieve straight lines. If your doing vertical runs this can be helpful


----------



## royce5950

If your not already using one of these mini levelers you definitely should get your hands on one they're usually 50 cents to $1 at hardware stores but their easy to acquire and they're really easy to test the angle of your rigid tubing lines to achieve straight lines. If your doing vertical runs this can be helpful


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That only works if the case and the table it sits on are level......


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your not already using one of these mini levelers you definitely should get your hands on one they're usually 50 cents to $1 at hardware stores but their easy to acquire and they're really easy to test the angle of your rigid tubing lines to achieve straight lines. If your doing vertical runs this can be helpful
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Assuming you've already leveled your table or floor your working on. But I wouldn't rely on a $1 level. That's why when you go to a hardware store, just like all their other tools, they have different models at different price ranges. Also when you are leveling something, you want the level to be about as long as the piece you are leveling. Putting a 1" bubble tube on a 12" pipe isn't going to be that accurate.

Nice concept though!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Frustrating at times I will admit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no flex in these tubes as quite thick to have the threads tapped out on the ends.
> Lengths and connecting angles have to be exact - more so even than using regular acrylic tube - you can't just cut a smidge off to get the right length or heat up to tweak an angle to fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The threaded end isn't too thick and _they will crack_ *if* the "length's" fittings are not lined up perfectly and spaced apart same length as the threaded tube.
> I think the only "flex" you get is in the rotary fittings and you'ld be asking for failure and leaks if pushing on them too much at all.
> 
> *Remember this* - no flex in tube, and weakest point is the thread - and they will crack / shatter if you haven't got the fittings lined up and spaced pretty much perfectly.
> 
> As a rule rotary fittings must be used on at least one end of each length to enable screwing together.
> On those lengths where rotaries just won't fit (too long, too short whatever) tube must be installed first with it's male/male fitting of appropriate length on each end.....
> 
> The best example of how important the rotaries are is the gpu to cpu run.
> I first first did the horizontal heading toward cpu as short as possible - (no rotary so had to put in place first)
> Then added a vertical tube below that - now this didn't line up exactly for a tube from gpu without kicking off on a very slight angle (very slight BUT not 90 degrees)
> However...
> with the rotaries on the top of the vertical and a male/male rotary between the 2 90s exiting the gpu I was able to point the two fittings directly at each other for the tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: gpu > cpu


Thanks again for the very detailed response. I see what you mean about fitting everything together and how it would be a pain. Now if you could buy your own tubing and tap the end to your own length that would be awesome.









I do like the look of it though, it makes everything look nice and smooth since the tube diameter and the fitting diameter are almost exactly the same size.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you newegg for more discounts on the Cougars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only one 120 this time but many, many 140s for new upcoming build. Already have 15 in a temporary rig


ugh was there another coupon? I missed out on this one and needed one more 140.


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got my ek 780 classy block cleaned out, reassembled and put back on the kingpin for now, its coming back off tomorrow because i got some fujipoly ultra extreme thermal pads coming in


I was thinking of getting those pads for my 780 Ti Classy too, which size and thickness did you get? EK Classy WB, probably need the same amount and thickness you got, which is







?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Anyone know if inside threading of the three ports on the EK X3-res Multiport Top are G1/4 threaded and would take a Bitspower Aquatube I? No one in the USA seems to carry the threaded acrylic tube that EK offers AFAIK. Just trying to see if the Bitspower would work, because that is readily available.

Specifically this top: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Anyone know if inside threading of the three ports on the EK X3-res Multiport Top are G1/4 threaded and would take a Bitspower Aquatube I? No one in the USA seems to carry the threaded acrylic tube that EK offers AFAIK. Just trying to see if the Bitspower would work, because that is readily available.
> 
> Specifically this top: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html


Not sure about the answer to your question but with how weird that thing is made (17mm holes instead of 18mm) I wouldnt even try to use something else.

Here is what you are looking for though for sell in the US.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36312
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36311
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36310

Edit: As said below the inside threads are not g1/4.. it looks like its a 16mm hole. So you would need a 16mm threaded tube with a oring. Just buy what I posted above and dont try anything else lol.


----------



## pc-illiterate

its not supposed to be g1/4


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Not sure about the answer to your question but with how weird that thing is made (17mm holes instead of 18mm) I wouldnt even try to use something else.
> 
> Here is what you are looking for though for sell in the US.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36312
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36311
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36310
> 
> Edit: As said below the inside threads are not g1/4.. it looks like its a 16mm hole. So you would need a 16mm threaded tube with a oring. Just buy what I posted above and dont try anything else lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> its not supposed to be g1/4


Appreciate the help ! I must've missed it on PPCs website. I checked there last night and couldn't find it oddly enough. I wish FCPU carried it though since I still have to use this 10% code there (and last time I ordered from PPCs, I had a horrible experience, but looks like I have no choice).


----------



## khemist

New GPU, still cpu only loop, i need to replace the tubing with the qdc for a longer bit as this card is quite a bit wider than a Titan.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> Hey, sorry to summon you... Have you ever seen some one mate a D5, or even dual D5's to a maelstrom? In my mind it seems like it would work, assuming D5's are just about the same size as DDC's.


No, I haven't seen that done yet. I'm not even sure that it could be though due to the size of the housing. We've never attempted it here either so I really don't have any data on whether or not this could be possible.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Anyone know if inside threading of the three ports on the EK X3-res Multiport Top are G1/4 threaded and would take a Bitspower Aquatube I? No one in the USA seems to carry the threaded acrylic tube that EK offers AFAIK. Just trying to see if the Bitspower would work, because that is readily available.
> 
> Specifically this top: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html


What exactly are you trying to accomplish? If you need to use the multiport top you pretty much have to get the threaded tubes by EK as they aren't g 1/4. However if you want to use the fillport as an inlet/outlet I was able to do this with a male to male connector a threaded g1/4 acrylic tube and doubling up on O-rings. Here is a picture.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> What exactly are you trying to accomplish? If you need to use the multiport top you pretty much have to get the threaded tubes by EK as they aren't g 1/4. However if you want to use the fillport as an inlet/outlet I was able to do this with a male to male connector a threaded g1/4 acrylic tube and doubling up on O-rings. Here is a picture.


The 90o ports on the multioption top for the X3-res come out the the exact height that I need to run a fairly nice & clean horizontal run from my CPU block. Because right now, I'm running a weird setup with my pump/res (D5 X3 X-Res w/ 250 tube), which means my outlet has to go immediately to my bottom 240, where that rad's other port then makes a LONG arcing run towards my CPU.




Pump outlet goes to front 240 rad port
The back 240 rad port makes the run to the CPU.

Which the way I have it setup makes my drainage system awkward to drain because at most I can only drain about half of the components from the lowest point in the loop. Having the CPU run to the top of the res/pump combo would allow me to reposition the drain setup towards more of a singular drainage point.

I have to at least have this setup at least last until this fall without me getting a headache, because I pretty much decided that Haswell-e was when I'd go all out on upgrades.

Plus I'm cheap. It would cost me about the same buying the multioption top than the 90o rotary + EK threaded tube. And I think the multi-option top would provide me...well...with more options







.

Not to mention I have a classy 780 coming, and that is a bit longer than the reference 680 pcb, which that long arcing tubing run would cause space issues.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> ugh was there another coupon? I missed out on this one and needed one more 140.


Yup, February 40%. Ordered 15 140s and one 120 for the STH10 I'll be ordering soon. I'm being tossing around so many ideas on what to setup that I wanted to get more just in case but once your order goes through, they don't let you use the code again. Might see another one in March for St. Patty's


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> The 90o ports on the multioption top for the X3-res come out the the exact height that I need to run a fairly nice & clean horizontal run from my CPU block. Because right now, I'm running a weird setup with my pump/res (D5 X3 X-Res w/ 250 tube), which means my outlet has to go immediately to my bottom 240, where that rad's other port then makes a LONG arcing run towards my CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump outlet goes to front 240 rad port
> The back 240 rad port makes the run to the CPU.
> Which the way I have it setup makes my drainage system awkward to drain because at most I can only drain about half of the components from the lowest point in the loop. Having the CPU run to the top of the res/pump combo would allow me to reposition the drain setup towards more of a singular drainage point.
> 
> I have to at least have this setup at least last until this fall without me getting a headache, because I pretty much decided that Haswell-e was when I'd go all out on upgrades.
> 
> Plus I'm cheap. It would cost me about the same buying the multioption top than the 90o rotary + EK threaded tube. And I think the multi-option top would provide me...well...with more options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Not to mention I have a classy 780 coming, and that is a bit longer than the reference 680 pcb, which that long arcing tubing run would cause space issues.


With the current res top you don't need the EK special tube, you just need a barrow threaded acrylic, Fcpu has some. Plus the m-to-m fitting. The multiport top plus ek tube will be at least 25$ the 90+m-to-m+barrow will be about 20$ maybe....idk it's up to you. I think the multiport top looks really cluttered in terms of the regular fill port. Plus the tube that will go down isn't centered in the res because there are three ports in the top. So if you have minor OCD that could bother you. Unless you are going to put a fillport on top and fill the entire res... then it doesn't matter I guess


----------



## Keyzman




----------



## LostKauz




----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> With the current res top you don't need the EK special tube, you just need a barrow threaded acrylic, Fcpu has some. Plus the m-to-m fitting. The multiport top plus ek tube will be at least 25$ the 90+m-to-m+barrow will be about 20$ maybe....idk it's up to you. I think the multiport top looks really cluttered in terms of the regular fill port. Plus the tube that will go down isn't centered in the res because there are three ports in the top. So if you have minor OCD that could bother you. Unless you are going to put a fillport on top and fill the entire res... then it doesn't matter I guess


Ehh, I just think it is so close in cost that it would work better with the multioption top. I'm only OCD when it comes to graphical tearing, speaker static







, and fan noise (which even as quiet as the AP-15s are, I'm actually just running my computer passively on the 360+240 and still getting only about 40-50C temps. And yeah, I'm gonna put a fillport on top an fill the entire res. I have another bottle of Pastel Green sitting in my computer parts closest waiting to be mixed and put in. Just don't want to do it right now because I'm just going to end up draining the loop anyhow.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> I was thinking of getting those pads for my 780 Ti Classy too, which size and thickness did you get? EK Classy WB, probably need the same amount and thickness you got, which is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


.5mm for the vram, 1mm for the vrms.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, I haven't seen that done yet. I'm not even sure that it could be though due to the size of the housing. We've never attempted it here either so I really don't have any data on whether or not this could be possible.


Will the Maelstrom V2 house two of the new upcoming Swiftech MCP50X Pumps? Will you be making a dual top product like the old ones? And when is it coming out again? Still on track for the H220X for late March?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Will the Maelstrom V2 house two of the new upcoming Swiftech MCP50X Pumps? Will you be making a dual top product like the old ones? And when is it coming out again?


The first version will only be capable of housing a single pump. There may be a version that can house two, but that will likely arrive later if demand warrants it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone here tried one of these before?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ddc-series/ek-ddc-heatsink-cover-nickel.html
> 
> I'm interested in mostly the aesthetics, but if it helps the pump run cooler that is always a plus. However if it's a piece of junk I wont even bother.


I just bought one as well to try. Arrived today, at which point I realised I cba to drain the loops of any of my rigs


----------



## BWAS1000

Anyone think a chipset block will fit on AMD Brazos, Intel Atom or Intel celeron 847? Yes, I want something to try.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I just bought one as well to try. Arrived today, at which point I realised I cba to drain the loops of any of my rigs


You're just going to have to start a new build to try it out in then!


----------



## BWAS1000

Laing D5 or Laing DDC, I still didn't get a proper response.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostKauz*


That is a thing of beauty







I wish I had more cash


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> With the current res top you don't need the EK special tube, you just need a barrow threaded acrylic, Fcpu has some. Plus the m-to-m fitting. The multiport top plus ek tube will be at least 25$ the 90+m-to-m+barrow will be about 20$ maybe....idk it's up to you. I think the multiport top looks really cluttered in terms of the regular fill port. Plus the tube that will go down isn't centered in the res because there are three ports in the top. So if you have minor OCD that could bother you. Unless you are going to put a fillport on top and fill the entire res... then it doesn't matter I guess


no, with the ek res tops you have to buy the ek threaded acrylic tube. the threading on the inside of the tops are not g1/4. the ek acrylic tube is all that will fit.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You're just going to have to start a new build to try it out in then!


I have actually got four cases sitting here at modding stage that were waiting on bonus and tax return, but then I went and bought a new car instead


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Laing D5 or Laing DDC, I still didn't get a proper response.


D5.

stickg1, I've got the Swiftech heatsink, not bad.


----------



## BWAS1000

okay, so I'll buy bmaverick DDC (that cheap so why not) but in the future unless space is a commodity then I'll get D5.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Laing D5 or Lain DDC, I still didn't get a proper response.


You'll never get a 'proper response'. What you'll get are 'Tastes great!' vs 'Less filling!' arguments/opinions. Each has it's own merits, and it's own proponents/critics. Try searching OCN. There is no shortage of topics bashing it out between them.

My too sense ..

DDC (aka MCP35x, PMP400) is smaller (at least without a heatsink on the bottom), not as quiet, has higher head-pressure which makes it better at handling loops with more than an average number of blocks, and dumps most of its heat into the case as the bottom of the pump can get hot. If used at full 12v for very long especially in a loop without much restriction they can suffer from reliability issues related to overheating that can be addressed by slowing the pump down & add one of the available heatsinks made for it.

D5s (MCP-655, PMP450) are quieter, have higher flow rate but less head pressure, plenty of pump for an average loop w/ 3-4 blocks or thereabouts but might want to consider dual D5s or a DDC if more than that. D5s are water cooled - they dump most of their heat into the loop instead of into the case. Overall the D5 is known to be the more reliable of the two.

FWIW I much prefer D5s.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You'll never get a 'proper response'. What you'll get are 'Tastes great!' vs 'Less filling!' arguments/opinions. Each has it's own merits, and it's own proponents/critics. Try searching OCN. There is no shortage of topics bashing it out between them.
> 
> My too sense ..
> 
> DDC (aka MCP35x, PMP400) is smaller (at least without a heatsink on the bottom), not as quiet, has higher head-pressure which makes it better at handling loops with more than an average number of blocks, and dumps most of its heat into the case as the bottom of the pump can get hot. If used at full 12v for very long especially in a loop without much restriction they can suffer from reliability issues that can be addressed by slowing the pump down & add one of the available heatsinks made for it.
> 
> D5s (MCP-655, PMP450) are quieter, have higher flow rate but less head pressure, plenty of pump for an average loop w/ 3-4 blocks or thereabouts but might want to consider dual D5s or a DDC if more than that. D5s are water cooled - they dump most of their heat into the loop instead of into the case. Overall the D5 is known to be more reliable.


Thats what i'd call a proper response honestly, looking like D5 is the way to go. My loops would only be CPU+GPU.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I have actually got four cases sitting here at modding stage that were waiting on bonus and tax return, but then I went and bought a new car instead


You clearly haven't got your priorities at the right place!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no, with the ek res tops you have to buy the ek threaded acrylic tube. the threading on the inside of the tops are not g1/4. the ek acrylic tube is all that will fit.


Actually you can in fact thread the Bitspower aquapipe up thru the big EK 12/16mm hole and into the top smaller G1/4 threaded portion in the single port top. I ran my loop that way for 5 days w/ DW ... when I switched to pastel, I bought the multi port for reason below.

EK res w/ single port top and BP fill tube @ early build stage





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> With the current res top you don't need the EK special tube, you just need a barrow threaded acrylic, Fcpu has some. Plus the m-to-m fitting. The multiport top plus ek tube will be at least 25$ the 90+m-to-m+barrow will be about 20$ maybe....idk it's up to you. I think the multiport top looks really cluttered in terms of the regular fill port. Plus the tube that will go down isn't centered in the res because there are three ports in the top. So if you have minor OCD that could bother you. Unless you are going to put a fillport on top and fill the entire res... then it doesn't matter I guess


You don't need anything with the single port top as the Bitspower (which I think he has) works just fine as a fill tube....it's only $7.50

Fill Port Tube - Bitspower G 1/4 Matte Black Aqua-Pipe I (BP-MBWP-C17)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11864/ex-tub-714/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_I_BP-MBWP-C17.html?tl=c97s169b145

Problem is once the res fills to the bottom of the tube, that's it .... w/o another port, no way to get the remainder of the air out....


----------



## stickg1

I'm going to get the multi-port top for the my EK res this time around. The way it will all lay out in my new case the return line to the res makes more sense at the top than at the bottom, less clutter. I do fill my loop from the top of the res though so having only one port available will not suffice. I plan on just getting the EK 40mm tube for the return line.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Speaking of the EK Res. I had a question.. with the multiport top is it possible to use the new bitspower air fittings in one of the 3 tops or will it eventually leak without the EK extender?

This is what im talking about

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21877/ex-tub-2269/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Pressure_Equalizer_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_-_Carbon_Black_BP-CBETAIR.html?id=PMLMeLcS&mv_pc=190#blank


----------



## stickg1

The top ports are all G1/4" so I don't see why not. Unless they are the recessed variety. I don't have it in hand yet so I couldn't tell you for sure. But for the top of my single port reservoir top any fitting will work.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The top ports are all G1/4" so I don't see why not. Unless they are the recessed variety. I don't have it in hand yet so I couldn't tell you for sure. But for the top of my single port reservoir top any fitting will work.


the multiport top ports are all the recessed ones


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> the multiport top ports are all the recessed ones


The single port on my existing top is recessed and it will take my bitspower plugs and bitspower rotaries. I typically put a 45deg rotary compression on it when I fill the loop and have a tube and funnel attached.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Speaking of the EK Res. I had a question.. with the multiport top is it possible to use the new bitspower air fittings in one of the 3 tops or will it eventually leak without the EK extender?
> 
> This is what im talking about
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21877/ex-tub-2269/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Pressure_Equalizer_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_-_Carbon_Black_BP-CBETAIR.html?id=PMLMeLcS&mv_pc=190#blank


Bitspower fittings are 18mm in diameter.... while I haven't measured the air release valve every other BP fitting I have is 18mm.... the well on the tops and bottoms of EK res's are 17mm and the sealing surface .... (where the the o ring mates) is 5mm down inside that well..... so ya problem is.... the o-ring can't get to the mating surface is it's too fat.... like trying to squeeze into ya old bell bottom jeans from the 70's or the skinny jeans from whenever .... it just ain't gonna fit.









See the pics

The 3 holes on the top have the 17mm wells and need the EK Extenders.....the side ones don't.


Ya can see them in place here ..... only 5 mm of the 10mm high silver fitting is showing, the other half is inside the well


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> .5mm for the vram, 1mm for the vrms.


Thanks! I'll give it a look if I can get the ball rolling. At the moment a screw is stripped on the gpu, a little one holding the pcb to the cooler. Nothing is wrong with the screw inside, it's just the head which is damaged so bad that nothing fits and over tightend. Been trying to get it out since yesterday -.- Almost threw the gpu to the wall...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The first version will only be capable of housing a single pump. There may be a version that can house two, but that will likely arrive later if demand warrants it.


ohh a Maelstrom V2? Are there pictures available for this some where?


----------



## mrinfinit3

Anyone know if the Asus Maximus VI blocks would fit the Maximus V Extreme? I can't tell from the pics...looks very close though. (minus the chip-set of course...more worried about the vrm's)

Max V Extreme:


Max VI Extreme:


this is what I'm interested in:


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Anyone know if the Asus Maximus VI blocks would fit the Maximus V Extreme? I can't tell from the pics...looks very close though. (minus the chip-set of course...more worried about the vrm's)
> 
> Max V Extreme:
> 
> 
> Max VI Extreme:
> 
> 
> this is what I'm interested in:


hate the fact there's a nickel plexi version of the VI Extreme block whereas the V Extreme is stuck with just one model. I'd buy the XSPC VI Extreme block just cos it has a red logo for my V Extreme if it fits lol.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well been hearing the occasional gurgling, running water, bubble sound. So I opened the two top ports on my aqua box pro and carefully tilted the case. Gradually the sound has lessened and noticed a 10 degree drop in temps under full folding load


----------



## Anoxy

Is there any consensus on the best thermal compound(s)?


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is there any consensus on the best thermal compound(s)?


there are quite a few that perform within a degree of each other so a lot of it is personal taste, I've ran Arctic Silver 5 for over a decade. I just bought a tube of IC Diamond to try out on my next application of TIM.

Indigo extreme is suppose to be top notch but its $$$ and its weird to apply.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is there any consensus on the best thermal compound(s)?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> MX4, GC Extreme & PK-3?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well been hearing the occasional gurgling, running water, bubble sound. So I opened the two top ports on my aqua box pro and carefully tilted the case. Gradually the sound has lessened and noticed a 10 degree drop in temps under full folding load


what app is dat?


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> MX4, GC Extreme & PK-3?
> 
> 
> 
> these too are great.
Click to expand...


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> there are quite a few that perform within a degree of each other so a lot of it is personal taste, I've ran Arctic Silver 5 for over a decade. I just bought a tube of IC Diamond to try out on my next application of TIM.
> 
> Indigo extreme is suppose to be top notch but its $$$ and its weird to apply.


Cool, thanks guys. I still have some Arctic Silver 5 left over so I'll just stick with that.

edit: is there a coupon code for Jab-Tech?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Did Geild come out with a new TIM? I thought they did, but I still bought GC Extreme out of habit. I personally think the benefits of GC Extreme are worth the purchase even with some left over Arctic Silver 5.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> [...] edit: is there a coupon code for Jab-Tech?


Jab-tech 5% off Promo Code: *facebook*
FrozenCPU 5% Discount Coupon: *OCN*
Performance-PCs 5.5% Discount Coupon / Redemption Code: *OCN55*


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is there any consensus on the best thermal compound(s)?


Just don't use CLU on copper. They don't get along very well. Temps are great, but the CLU likes to nibble on the copper. Not a big deal for CPU blocks, as resurfacing is easy, but resurfacing a GPU block is probably a bit more precarious.

Iv'e been using PK-3 as well, which is REALLY thick, but seems to work really well. I got a 30G tube, so it's going to last a long time.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> hate the fact there's a nickel plexi version of the VI Extreme block whereas the V Extreme is stuck with just one model. I'd buy the XSPC VI Extreme block just cos it has a red logo for my V Extreme if it fits lol.


Exactly! That's basically my entire purpose of the question... That blk/red themed block is nice... But get this... it'snearly 40% cheaper than the others (since it doesn't have the chip-set cooler as part of the block...) But it looks just so much better


----------



## brazilianloser

Added some Fujipoly after recommendations here and I am seeing a max of about 50c on the vrm of my two 290s @1175/1400. That expansive junk is actually worth it.









And added another rad to my system...


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Added some Fujipoly after recommendations here and I am seeing a max of about 50c on the vrm of my two 290s @1175/1400. That expansive junk is actually worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And added another rad to my system...


Good to know. I'm not happy with my VRM's, especially with it being underwater.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Exactly! That's basically my entire purpose of the question... That blk/red themed block is nice... But get this... it'snearly 40% cheaper than the others (since it doesn't have the chip-set cooler as part of the block...) But it looks just so much better


could someone confirm if the XSPC VI Extreme block is compatible with the V Extreme board..?


----------



## kpoeticg

Anybody know MSI's USA warranty policies for putting waterblocks on their gpu's? Or even if their 290x Gaming Edition has a tamper-seal on the cooler?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Anybody know MSI's USA warranty policies for putting waterblocks on their gpu's? Or even if their 290x Gaming Edition has a tamper-seal on the cooler?


http://us.msi.com/service/warranty/
Quote:


> The MSI product *MUST* be free of any physical damage due to improper installation or modification of *ANY* kind (this includes installing aftermarket parts) or the warranty *WILL* be *VOID*.


EVGA's the only GPU company I know of that doesn't care if you put their cards under water.


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for that info

Powercolor also allows waterblocks. And XFX does in the USA but not in Europe. You might have to email XFX first to let them know your doing it though, not 100% clear on that


----------



## stickg1

What MSI is saying is that as long as you don't break anything and the card is still in tact they will honor the warranty.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What MSI is saying is that as long as you don't break anything and the card is still in tact they will honor the warranty.


Hmmm, that's not how their warranty reads to me, but I gave it a google and found this OCN topic ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svthomas*
> 
> Response from MSI:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Steven,
> 
> If it is done carefully without damaging anything in the process, it will not void the warranty. Thank you.
> 
> MSI Customer Service
> MSI Computer Corp. | Tel: 1-626-271-1004 Option 2 | Fax: 626-913-0818
> us.msi.com|www.msimobile.com| Facebook & Twitter
> 
> 
> 
> |
Click to expand...

Sooo, seems as long as the block wasn't the cause of the issue and you saved everything to be able to put it all back together, they should honor the warranty afterall. Good to know.


----------



## kpoeticg

Hrmmm seems like a very loophole-like/gray area for a warranty. I'm definitely about to check that thread though.

Thanx


----------



## stickg1

Yeah it says "free of any physical damage"

If you install the block properly there will be no damage.

If your screwdriver slips and you lop a couple components off the PCB then they won't honor the warranty. And rightfully so.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol yeah well that makes sense. By gray area i mean like, "there's a tiny scratch near the screwhole on the PCB and that's why it doesn't work anymore"

Sometimes companies like to place blame wherever else they can =P


----------



## stickg1

Like ASUS was doing for their Z77 boards. I don't know if they still do it, but I read about a lot of people having that problem. Specifically the screw holes for mounting CPU coolers.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just dont reveal it ever had a block on it.

Job done.

EVGA are the only vendor to honor block fitted cards as part of the general warranty. There may be others that do but its not written in the warranty.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> what app is dat?


The app I'm using is PC Monitor, works with windows 7 & 8, Mac OS, and Linux. Also its free and can monitor on the go from iPhone/iPad, android devices, and windows mobile


----------



## Hefner

If there are warranty stickers of any kind simply remove theme using a heatgun and put them on a piece of parchment paper. Simply replace the sticker if you need to RMA the card.

This way you might even be able to blame them if you mess up your card


----------



## mistacheese

Hey All! I am finished the water-cooling part of my build other then fan connections, so I thought I'd drop a pic or two.








Hopefully someone here can help guide me with a quick question also, I have everything ran, but I need to plug in all my fans. Do I do it like this? (Rampage IV Black Edition)

Rear Chassis Fan (AF140) and the front rad 2 fans (a f140) into CHA_FAN1
Top Rad Inside 3 fans (SP120 Quiet PWM) into CPU_FAN
Top Rad Outside 3 fans (SP120 Quiet PWM) into CPU_OPT
Tach signal from D5 into OPT_FAN3

Thanks a ton for all the help I've gained lurking around here everyone, hopefully I get brave enough to flick the power switch today, but first I need fans and reassurance... Lol.

Mista Cheese


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's the same thing I did for my fans, 2 blaster 120's are on a 3 pin splitter to CPU, 2 blaster 120's for the 240 are on CPU_OPT, and fronts are on Fan 3, I still have slots for fan 1&2 open


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> The app I'm using is PC Monitor, works with windows 7 & 8, Mac OS, and Linux. Also its free and can monitor on the go from iPhone/iPad, android devices, and windows mobile


ima DL it nao!


----------



## mistacheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's the same thing I did for my fans, 2 blaster 120's are on a 3 pin splitter to CPU, 2 blaster 120's for the 240 are on CPU_OPT, and fronts are on Fan 3, I still have slots for fan 1&2 open


Oh boy! Thanks a lot. I think I'm ready to power up... Wish me luck all.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey I was wondering, anyone have access to a 3D printer???


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is there any consensus on the best thermal compound(s)?


There are lots of tests to be found..... this is the biggest one

http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12

These all tied in thermal performance
Quote:


> Tuniq TX-3 (0) Aluminum Oxide Moderate 37.65°C A+
> Gelid GC-Extreme (0) Aluminum Oxide Low / Thin 37.65°C A+
> Thermaltake Grease A2150 (4) Polysynthetic Silver Low / Thin 37.65°C A+
> Arctic Silver 5 Polysynthetic Thermal Compound (4) Polysynthetic Silver Low / Thin 37.55°C A+
> Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751 (0)
> 
> (0) No Curing Time or Special Application Suggested
> (4) Arctic Silver 5 Application Instructions (up to 200-hours recommended curing time)


Note that's not 200 hours of use, that's 200 hours of thermal cycling ..... Run ya puter for 12 hour gaming marathon....you don't have 188 hours left .... you have 199:50 left as it took 5 minutes to warm up, and 5 minutes to cool down .... that's only 10 minutes of thermal cycling.....takes over year in normal usage to fully cure. I have never used Tuniq and Thermaltake..... gave up on As cause of the curing issue.

Shin Etsu is sold on newegg and is cheap (like $6)......Gelid is a little easier to spread and it comes w/ a nice spreading tool but $13.... tho after being opened for 2-3 minutes, the spreadability is not as good.

There are some esoteric jobs like Indigo and CL but application prcedures and the fact that many of the esoteric ones conduct electricity make them specialty products..... not for the average home builder.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistacheese*
> 
> Hopefully someone here can help guide me with a quick question also, I have everything ran, but I need to plug in all my fans. Do I do it like this? (Rampage IV Black Edition)
> 
> Rear Chassis Fan (AF140) and the front rad 2 fans (a f140) into CHA_FAN1
> Top Rad Inside 3 fans (SP120 Quiet PWM) into CPU_FAN
> Top Rad Outside 3 fans (SP120 Quiet PWM) into CPU_OPT
> Tach signal from D5 into OPT_FAN3


What are you trying to accomplish ? I'm guessing that you put the PWM fans on the CPU header cause they are PWM and the others are not..... if I'm wrong see below. While understanding that PWM has certain advantages from an efficiency standpoint, from a practical standpoint, I am more interested in having control than PWM.

Consider .....

1. Your CPU header is likely a) the only one with PWM and b) the only one with an alarm which can let you know something isn't spinning and maybe even safely shut down the PC . That being the case, if pump is PWM especially, I'd want that on the CPU so if it stops, I know about it.

2. You have an Asus Board which gives you Fan Xpert2. That utility can control ya CHA headers and CPU header; for that reason, I'd recommend using CHA_1, CHA_2 and CHA_3. This will allow you to have separate fan profiles for each channel.

3. What are the amp ratings for your fans ? Asus Headers on all but the extreme top end Boards (certainly everything under $300, not sure w/ Z87 when / if there's any 2 amp headers) are rated for just 1 amp ..... with inrush current you want to lave a factor of safety ..... I usually like to stay under half the rating, (no more than 2/3) with 1800 rpm fans..... can go a little higher w/ slower fans....if fans are 0.15 amps say .... 3 or 4 is OK at 1800 rpm.... at 1200 rpm, Id do up to 6. Now if they 2000 rpm monsters with 0.33 amps, no more than 2. My Rampage II and II BTW, according to Asus TS, were rated at 2 amps on the CPU header, not sure about others. Latest build has the M6F and they all 1 amp according to Asus.

4. Even tho all you headers on the MoBo are 4 pin, *they are NOT PWM headers*. Only the CPU Headers are PWM, all other are 4 pin variable voltage control according to Asus TS and RoG Forums....Unless perhaps the RIVB is "special" but as yet I have heard of no MoBo that has PWM CHA / OPT headers.

Again, i would have just used plain 3 pin fans. But since you invested in PWM fans what I would do is this.

1. Connect the Pump to CPU Header.
2. Connect the chassis fans to CHA_1
3. Connect the Front Rad fans to CHA_2
4. Connect the CPU_OPT to a PWM fan splitter like the Swiftech unit and control all ya PWM fans

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html

This will allow for:

Alarm for pump failure
Fan Expert Control of all fans
PWM control of all fans.


----------



## liquidguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> There are lots of tests to be found..... this is the biggest one
> 
> http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12
> 
> These all tied in thermal performance
> Note that's not 200 hours of use, that's 200 hours of thermal cycling ..... Run ya puter for 12 hour gaming marathon....you don't have 188 hours left .... you have 199:50 left as it took 5 minutes to warm up, and 5 minutes to cool down .... that's only 10 minutes of thermal cycling.....takes over year in normal usage to fully cure. I have never used Tuniq and Thermaltake..... gave up on As cause of the curing issue.
> 
> Shin Etsu is sold on newegg and is cheap (like $6)......Gelid is a little easier to spread and it comes w/ a nice spreading tool but $13.... tho after being opened for 2-3 minutes, the spreadability is not as good.
> 
> There are some esoteric jobs like Indigo and CL but application prcedures and the fact that many of the esoteric ones conduct electricity make them specialty products..... not for the average home builder.


hmm... I was not aware of the curing issue with the Artic Silver 5 maybe I should change my compound as I change processors and or reseat processor/change cooling block way more than once per year....


----------



## Neo Zuko

Not to mention I think Arctic Silver 5 is conductive. It's been so long since I used it I may he wrong. But I know it has that curing time which is reason enough to use a more advanced solution like GC Extreme or Noctua's TIM. You want easy to apply, easy to remove, no curing time, non conductive, decent temp scores, decent longevity of each application.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> There are lots of tests to be found..... this is the biggest one
> 
> http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Tuniq TX-3 (0) Aluminum Oxide Moderate 37.65°C A+
> Gelid GC-Extreme (0) Aluminum Oxide Low / Thin 37.65°C A+
> Thermaltake Grease A2150 (4) Polysynthetic Silver Low / Thin 37.65°C A+
> Arctic Silver 5 Polysynthetic Thermal Compound (4) Polysynthetic Silver Low / Thin 37.55°C A+
> Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751 (0)
> 
> (0) No Curing Time or Special Application Suggested
> (4) Arctic Silver 5 Application Instructions (up to 200-hours recommended curing time)
> 
> 
> 
> These all tied in thermal performance
> Note that's not 200 hours of use, that's 200 hours of thermal cycling ..... Run ya puter for 12 hour gaming marathon....you don't have 188 hours left .... you have 199:50 left as it took 5 minutes to warm up, and 5 minutes to cool down .... that's only 10 minutes of thermal cycling.....takes over year in normal usage to fully cure. I have never used Tuniq and Thermaltake..... gave up on As cause of the curing issue. [...]
Click to expand...

You are waaaay mistaken about the AS5 cure time. The review you are basing that on links the cure time note to this PDF from Arctic Silver (internet archive: this is how the page looked in June 2009 when that review you linked was first posted):
Quote:


> 3) Break-In Period
> Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5 conductive matrix, *it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity.* (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. *This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.*


That's 200 hrs of use and a few thermal cycles, not 200 hrs of thermal cycle time as you wrote. Soooo, after your "12 hour gaming marathon....you [ *do* ] have 188 hours left", assuming you occasionally shut down the computer every now and then during that time. And it's not like the TIM isn't working just fine during that time. You'll just get gradually better temps, up to 3C cooler, by the end of the 200hrs use curing period.

If you want to get really technical, that review you quoted first linked to this archived Arctic Silver page, which clicking the 'Intel' option there took you to this archived page, and then clicking the dual core processor link (what they were using in that test) took you to the archived PDF I quoted above

AND FWIW Arctic Silver's FAQs page still says the same thing today about cure time: http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

Anywho, there are definitely better TIMs out nowadays. I personally these days am liking Gelid GC-Extreme / Phobya HeGrease (same thing in a different wrapper).


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistacheese*
> 
> Hey All! I am finished the water-cooling part of my build other then fan connections, so I thought I'd drop a pic or two.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully someone here can help guide me with a quick question also, I have everything ran, but I need to plug in all my fans. Do I do it like this? (Rampage IV Black Edition)
> 
> Rear Chassis Fan (AF140) and the front rad 2 fans (a f140) into CHA_FAN1
> Top Rad Inside 3 fans (SP120 Quiet PWM) into CPU_FAN
> Top Rad Outside 3 fans (SP120 Quiet PWM) into CPU_OPT
> Tach signal from D5 into OPT_FAN3
> 
> Thanks a ton for all the help I've gained lurking around here everyone, hopefully I get brave enough to flick the power switch today, but first I need fans and reassurance... Lol.
> 
> Mista Cheese


I would plug the D5 into the CPU header since if your pump goes you lose all flow and your poor CPU will roast. This way if the pump fails you can set an alarm in bios to shut down your PC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Not to mention I think Arctic Silver 5 is conductive. It's been so long since I used it I may he wrong. But I know it has that curing time which is reason enough to use a more advanced solution like GC Extreme or Noctua's TIM. You want easy to apply, easy to remove, no curing time, non conductive, decent temp scores, decent longevity of each application.


AS5 is non-conductive but it is 'slightly' capacitive.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> I would plug the D5 into the CPU header since if your pump goes you lose all flow and your poor CPU will roast. This way if the pump fails you can set an alarm in bios to shut down your PC.


I will probably be wrong here since I am not an expert on anything but when I got my pump (a Phobya 220) just over a year ago I was surprised to find that the cable didn't reach all the way to the CPU header. I asked a question here and - as far as I remember - I was told my CPU header probably couldn't supply enough current anyway. I connected the pump to my Lamptron FC5 V2 which can supply 30 Watts per channel and it has run sweetly ever since.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I will probably be wrong here since I am not an expert on anything but when I got my pump (a Phobya 220) just over a year ago I was surprised to find that the cable didn't reach all the way to the CPU header. I asked a question here and - as far as I remember - I was told my CPU header probably couldn't supply enough current anyway. I connected the pump to my Lamptron FC5 V2 which can supply 30 Watts per channel and it has run sweetly ever since.


The D5 has a separate cable just for pump RPM that you could connect to the CPU header.

As for using it to shut down in an emergency, I have seen people say this a lot but has anyone actually done it?

I could never find any option like that in my Sabertooth BIOS. As far as I understood if the pump stops the CPU would overheat and throttle itself til it hits its built in safetey shut down temperature. But that is all independant of any settings we can change.
Edit: Maybe other boards are different?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> I would plug the D5 into the CPU header since if your pump goes you lose all flow and your poor CPU will roast. This way if the pump fails you can set an alarm in bios to shut down your PC.
> AS5 is non-conductive but it is 'slightly' capacitive.


Ah yes, I knew there was something about that. I still like GC Extreme the best so far.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The D5 has a separate cable just for pump RPM that you could connect to the CPU header.
> 
> *As for using it to shut down in an emergency, I have seen people say this a lot but has anyone actually done it?*
> 
> I could never find any option like that in my Sabertooth BIOS. As far as I understood if the pump stops the CPU would overheat and throttle itself til it hits its built in safetey shut down temperature. But that is all independant of any settings we can change.
> Edit: Maybe other boards are different?


All my BIOS have some sort of CPU Fan Speed Low Limit setting where if the rpm signal on the fan/pump plugged into the CPU_FAN header doesn't go over whatever min rpm it is set to you get a CPU fan Error message and 10-20 seconds or so later the system shuts down. I've never had that happen because a pump actually failed, but I have when a fan died or when I forgot to hook up a fan to the CPU_Header before I went into the BIOS and set the CPU_Fan to 'ignore'.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> All my BIOS have some sort of CPU Fan Speed Low Limit setting where if the rpm signal on the fan/pump plugged into the CPU_FAN header doesn't go over whatever min rpm it is set to you get a CPU fan Error message and 10-20 seconds or so later the system shuts down. I've never had that happen because a pump actually failed, but I have when a fan died or when I forgot to hook up a fan to the CPU_Header before I went into the BIOS and set the CPU_Fan to 'ignore'.


Hmm, Ok thanks. On the Sabertooth it just flashes a warning that CPU fan is zero but does nothing. It won't start without a CPU fan signal unless it is set to ignor but that is it.

Edit: Reminds me I must work out how to wire up the Aquaero to cut power if flow stops or lowers.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ohh a Maelstrom V2? Are there pictures available for this some where?


I think we have pictures of it posted on our Facebook page.


----------



## gdubc

Got everything I hopefully will need ordered, except for one(actually 2) major parts...I need those new mcp50s to come out already!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

hello gang.

im really close to putting my loop back in my pc after i had some acrylic tubes crack and leak. just wondering if you guys think it would be worthwhile for me to use a 240 ek coolstream AND a hardware labs gtx 360, or if i can get away with just the 360.

im running a 4770k @ 4.3ghz, and an overclocked reference gtx 780. this is all going into the new h440, and i really only want to use the 360. just looking for some guidance or pointers.


----------



## sebkow

Is this normal my dc5 from swiftech is louder then my ap16's? The pump is set to 3. In my loop at this time is just a sr1 360 rad and cpu block.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The D5 has a separate cable just for pump RPM that you could connect to the CPU header.
> 
> what should the RPM be on a D5 set at 5 (highest level)?
> 
> whoops LOL


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidguy*
> 
> hmm... I was not aware of the curing issue with the Artic Silver 5 maybe I should change my compound as I change processors and or reseat processor/change cooling block way more than once per year....


read their home page

http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
Quote:


> Important Reminder:
> Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, *it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles* to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. *This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature*. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.


http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5
Quote:


> So by my estimation of this statement it would take almost a year of normal use to properly cure the AS5 compound, or almost nine days of continuous power cycles to meet their recommendation. Benchmark Reviews feels that this is a characteristically unreasonable requirement for any TIM product, and we do not support it. We want products that perform without the burden of sacrifice on our time, especially with some many competing products offering performance without this extra requirement.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You are waaaay mistaken about the AS5 cure time. The review you are basing that on links the cure time note to this PDF from Arctic Silver (internet archive: this is how the page looked in June 2009 when that review you linked was first posted):
> That's 200 hrs of use and a few thermal cycles, not 200 hrs of thermal cycle time as you wrote. Soooo, after your "12 hour gaming marathon....you [ *do* ] have 188 hours left", assuming you occasionally shut down the computer every now and then during that time. And it's not like the TIM isn't working just fine during that time. You'll just get gradually better temps, up to 3C cooler, by the end of the 200hrs use curing period.
> 
> If you want to get really technical, that review you quoted first linked to this archived Arctic Silver page, which clicking the 'Intel' option there took you to this archived page, and then clicking the dual core processor link (what they were using in that test) took you to the archived PDF I quoted above
> 
> AND FWIW Arctic Silver's FAQs page still says the same thing today about cure time: http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
> 
> Anywho, there are definitely better TIMs out nowadays. I personally these days am liking Gelid GC-Extreme / Phobya HeGrease (same thing in a different wrapper).


First off give BMRs reputation in the TIM field, I have your opinion versus theirs .... kinda leaves it clear which one I'm going to be comfortable relying upon. Their analysis of heat signature / die size effect on coolers performance is one of the most significant articles every written on the TIM topic, tho even today some sites are still using a "universal mount" providing very consistent results which are applicable only to imaginary CPUs.

However, again, you speak of which you do not know.....I have used AS5 and I continually monitor both my own machines and follow up with users which have had it installed. I use this data as an indicator as to say when Air Coolers need to be air blasted to get dust out or other issues addressed. Normally I am seeing temps going up when looking at this due to dust fouling or user tweaking fan profiles for less noise. Not always true with AS5.

As a builder I need to be able to set the OCs and get the machines off my dining room table and move on. I can not, and have personally verified that I can not, do this with AS5. Any max temp limit that you are using is "temporary" with AS5 as it continues to change over time. And 200 hours ... even if I hadn't personally verified changes to the contrary what user wants to wait for me to keep his machine for 200 hours while I tweak his OC ?

I have held onto users machines for as much as two weeks .... wrestling with problems and when testing have observed a change in thermal results that goes beyond simple statistical variation. I do tests for 4-5 days straight (> 100 hours) and see differences which sometimes can and sometimes can not be relied upon as they are small or inconsistent ..... but then that failed part or answer from tech support arrives and two weeks after the initial test, my max core is 1 and maybe even 2C lower and the differences between cores have changed by even more.

That same machine comes back 6 months later so I can clean out the 60 GB SSD the user wanted and its clogged with crap..... I run the test again and it's still lower. Again, it's more common to see temps rise a bit so when I see it go down it's an event that gets noticed.

So whatever careful wording Artic Silver wants to use in its marketing speils to sell it's product is immaterial to me....what matters to me is that 6 months later, the results .... personally verified results, are still changing. I refuse to accept manufacturer's jargon without verification.... right now I see 3 cell providers on TV all telling me they have the best 4G coverage. Obviously two of them are wrong.

Now on one hand this is a good thing as I have had it go the other way, I have seen TIMs degrade over time which is why if you observe this, replacement should be 1st option. And I have found a way to force AS5 and even other TIMs to set up a bit faster. This has been helpful in getting the dining room table clear faster and keeping "she who must be obeyed" off my back.

If the max temp the user is willing to expose is system to is say 75C, I will go OC it till the max core temp is 75C and run a few thermal cycles. I will then cut fan speeds, say enough to obtain a max core temp of 80C for a short period and let it cool down to room temp. After 3 or 4 cycles like this, I test again and almost invariably have gotten lower temps and oft (well at least w/ SB) getting a bit more OC (Haswell changes to much w/ each step to make 2C temp drops matter). They might still be changing up at the 80+ mark but 75C seems to remain consistent ... then again, since I quit AS5, just about all of thm out there now are well over a year old. On the current build (Gelid), I dropped from 75 to 74C doing the short 80C cycling.


----------



## kj1060

I was planning on making some modifications to my loop. Currently it goes bay res/D5 -> CPU -> 360 -> GPU -> tube res -> D5 ->480 - >240.

1. I was thinking of removing the tube res from the loop and just having the second D5 after the GPU. Will I run into any problems besides making sure that second D5 has water in it?
2. Something I have noticed when I have both reservoirs in the loop is I can't run the D5s at the same speed since one of the reservoirs will fill up while the other will drain. Will I finally be able to run them at the same speed?
3. I was also considering just leaving the tube res in the rig filled with water but not attached to the loop, do I need anything besides PT-Nuke in there?

Thank you for your help.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> All my BIOS have some sort of CPU Fan Speed Low Limit setting where if the rpm signal on the fan/pump plugged into the CPU_FAN header doesn't go over whatever min rpm it is set to you get a CPU fan Error message and 10-20 seconds or so later the system shuts down. I've never had that happen because a pump actually failed, but I have when a fan died or when I forgot to hook up a fan to the CPU_Header before I went into the BIOS and set the CPU_Fan to 'ignore'.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, Ok thanks. On the Sabertooth it just flashes a warning that CPU fan is zero but does nothing. It won't start without a CPU fan signal unless it is set to ignor but that is it.
> 
> Edit: *Reminds me I must work out how to wire up the Aquaero to cut power if flow stops or lowers.*
Click to expand...

I just had to integrate that circuit into my custom loom.

The circuit required is...



Just use the green wire to bridge the switch and the other 2 pin for supplying power,I have removed all the switches from the front of the S3 and it is now all XT5 controlled via IR remote.

You will have to tie the flow monitor to an alarm or shut down via the unit or Aquasuite.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> read their home page
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Important Reminder:
> Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, *it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles* to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. *This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature*. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
> http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> So by my estimation of this statement it would take almost a year of normal use to properly cure the AS5 compound, or almost nine days of continuous power cycles to meet their recommendation. Benchmark Reviews feels that this is a characteristically unreasonable requirement for any TIM product, and we do not support it. We want products that perform without the burden of sacrifice on our time, especially with some many competing products offering performance without this extra requirement.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

lololol









The problem with the person who wrote that review's "estimation" is that he's apparently an idiot who has little-to-no reading comprehension ability.

It CLEARLY says "_up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles_", not 200hrs of thermal cycling. It even further explains that it's talking about 200 hrs of "_normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time_". This is something that can easily take place over the course of a couple weeks to a month of typical computer use as long as you shut it down and let it cool off a few times.

Honestly, someone would have to be pretty dense to misunderstand that into thinking it means "_almost a year of normal use_" ... "_or almost nine days of continuous power cycles_".


----------



## pkrexer

So I don't think I'll be using XSPC rotary fittings anymore. I put a 45' fitting on my video card to make a nicer looking connection to my front radiator since I had to drain my loop anyway. Was bleeding the loop for an hour and then fitting started to leak right at the rotary joint. Thankfully I caught it right away ... gah.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just had to integrate that circuit into my custom loom.
> 
> The circuit required is...
> 
> 
> 
> Just use the green wire to bridge the switch and the other 2 pin for supplying power,I have removed all the switches from the front of the S3 and it is now all XT5 controlled via IR remote.
> 
> You will have to tie the flow monitor to an alarm or shut down via the unit or Aquasuite.


a really good idea

but on aquaero 5 XT, its a 3 pin relay connector, witch pins I need to use ?
I think your drawing is a 4?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just had to integrate that circuit into my custom loom.
> 
> The circuit required is...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just use the green wire to bridge the switch and the other 2 pin for supplying power,I have removed all the switches from the front of the S3 and it is now all XT5 controlled via IR remote.
> 
> You will have to tie the flow monitor to an alarm or shut down via the unit or Aquasuite.


Ah, Nice one .. Thanks. Save that.

I have alarms set already I just hadn't carefully looked at the wiring and what I needed. Its less complex than I thought so maybe I will get off my arse to do it.

Just gotta get the relay plug in Au. A couple of our go-to water cooling suppliers have dramatically scaled down or stopped taking orders. I don't quite get it when the hobby only seems to be growing.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just saved as well since I'm looking into getting a controller for my C70, and the Aquero will match my Aquabox Pro reservoir


----------



## ikem

testing our new pump out


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just had to integrate that circuit into my custom loom.
> 
> The circuit required is...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just use the green wire to bridge the switch and the other 2 pin for supplying power,I have removed all the switches from the front of the S3 and it is now all XT5 controlled via IR remote.
> 
> You will have to tie the flow monitor to an alarm or shut down via the unit or Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, Nice one .. Thanks. Save that.
> 
> I have alarms set already I just hadn't carefully looked at the wiring and what I needed. Its less complex than I thought so maybe I will get off my arse to do it.
> 
> Just gotta get the relay plug in Au. A couple of our go-to water cooling suppliers have dramatically scaled down or stopped taking orders. I don't quite get it when the hobby only seems to be growing.
Click to expand...

If you are out of luck then PM me your addy and i will stick one in a JiffyBag for you.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lololol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with the person who wrote that review's "estimation" is that he's apparently an idiot who has little-to-no reading comprehension ability.
> 
> It CLEARLY says "_up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles_", not 200hrs of thermal cycling. It even further explains that it's talking about 200 hrs of "_normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time_". This is something that can easily take place over the course of a couple weeks to a month of typical computer use as long as you shut it down and let it cool off a few times.
> 
> Honestly, someone would have to be pretty dense to misunderstand that into thinking it means "_almost a year of normal use_" ... "_or almost nine days of continuous power cycles_".


Again, doesn't matter what it the marketing department at Artic Silver wrote or how anyone interprets it ... AS5 is the one who complains that reviewers aren't fair to them cause they need 200 hours...... .what matters what the temp probes show. I can't verify a year, but I have personally verified 2 weeks (bigger than 200 hours) with constant observation and 6 months on 3 or 4 occasions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The D5 has a separate cable just for pump RPM that you could connect to the CPU header.
> 
> As for using it to shut down in an emergency, I have seen people say this a lot but has anyone actually done it?
> 
> I could never find any option like that in my Sabertooth BIOS. As far as I understood if the pump stops the CPU would overheat and throttle itself til it hits its built in safetey shut down temperature. But that is all independant of any settings we can change.
> Edit: Maybe other boards are different?


Look for CPU fan speed...if minimum is set to 600, then 0 should produce an error / alarm or at least prevent start up.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> testing our new pump out


Dat head pressure







!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey I was wondering, anyone have access to a 3D printer???


I have one at my school but I'm not sure when/if I'm allowed to use it yet...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Dat head pressure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


we were running right around 225psi on top of the pump. around 150psi are the tip.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just had to integrate that circuit into my custom loom.
> 
> The circuit required is...
> 
> 
> 
> Just use the green wire to bridge the switch and the other 2 pin for supplying power,I have removed all the switches from the front of the S3 and it is now all XT5 controlled via IR remote.
> 
> You will have to tie the flow monitor to an alarm or shut down via the unit or Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> a really good idea
> 
> but on aquaero 5 XT, its a 3 pin relay connector, witch pins I need to use ?
> I think your drawing is a 4?
Click to expand...

Its 2 for standby power and 2 for the relay.

the 3 pin relay uses pin 1 and 3,I will check that for you tho.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I have one at my school but I'm not sure when/if I'm allowed to use it yet...
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks for the info you just made me think of my last school I went to...they have a printer there also and one of the professors there is a client of mine


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its 2 for standby power and 2 for the relay.
> 
> the 3 pin relay uses pin 1 and 3,I will check that for you tho.


thanks, really appreciate


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Thanks for the info you just made me think of my last school I went to...they have a printer there also and one of the professors there is a client of mine


Glad I could spark some ideas! I'm going to look into using ours, along with the water jet, the laser cutter and the mill









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its 2 for standby power and 2 for the relay.
> 
> the 3 pin relay uses pin 1 and 3,I will check that for you tho.


Yup.. It's 1 & 3 as Neg say's


----------



## snef

Thanks, just ordered connector

And now need to controll rgb led strip, if someone have any web site in english, thanks


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its 2 for standby power and 2 for the relay.
> 
> the 3 pin relay uses pin 1 and 3,I will check that for you tho.


I helped someone else out with this
*here it is*
heeps of pics and info there that I didn't Cut and paste here

the 3 pin relay plug on Aquaero is used for 2 different functions.
front panel control and saving settings OR software control and saving settings (as far as I remember)
I get 2 x 2pin plugs

I Splice one into my 24 pin for initial set up for use with front panel buttons.
and the other I splice into the front power button.
With the power reset button plugged in none of the settings done on the front panel are saved.
and with the front power button to motherboard spliced plug - well for me I don't test everything with power to the motherboard at that stage.

EDIT
when testing done and ready to fire up - plug in the front power switch spliced plug
AND NEED TO COMPLETE THE CIRCUIT FROM TESTING relay plug - using a switch for this could be convenient as pictured in post below.

You don't have to do this (use two relay plugs) - but for me it's a good way of testing functions of the Aquaero and most things hooked up to it.

A two pin fan plug (like on the left) with couple pins are also needed for the standby power function.
I think this is the best one (wiring diagram) - again Aquaero 5 (which is what I have) but same part number for the AC cable and plugs
Pink wire in diagram is actually the purple +5v Standby Wire by ATX standard
For relay test mode - use right hand green wires.
For normal use mode use the left hand green wires as pictured.
Working as documented from HW-Lab Aquero 5 Review


----------



## DarthBaggins

Painted one of the panels on my 210 Reboot build w/ some chalkboard paint, turned out better than I though it would.

making me think I'm going to have some fun w/ it in the Frankenstein build along w/ the glow in the dark paint I have as well, made sure to pick up some 5mm 3M Paint Tape


----------



## Ice Reign

Hey folks. I inspected my gpu blocks and found this. I believe it's some corrosion. Can anyone recommend a cleaning method? I've heard a few things but would like some advice. Any would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## DarthBaggins

If it's a nickle plated block, that looks like the plating has been flaking off.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Hey folks. I inspected my gpu blocks and found this. I believe it's some corrosion. Can anyone recommend a cleaning method? I've heard a few things but would like some advice. Any would be appreciated. Thanks


What coolant are you running?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Hey folks. I inspected my gpu blocks and found this. I believe it's some corrosion. Can anyone recommend a cleaning method? I've heard a few things but would like some advice. Any would be appreciated. Thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What were you using as coolant?


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What coolant are you running?


Distiller water with some mayhems dye and liquid utopia. I've checked the blocks for any nickel flaking. I can't see any but obviously it's only a surface inspection.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> If it's a nickle plated block, that looks like the plating has been flaking off.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Distiller water with some mayhems dye and liquid utopia. I've checked the blocks for any nickel flaking. I can't see any but obviously it's only a surface inspection.


First, go look at this, the folks at EK have said to NOT use plain distilled in their blocks, even with a biocide.
http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info

It has been a known issue.

I've been using EK blocks for over two years running mayhems coolants and never had an issue with it, and my blocks are always the nickel versions


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> First, go look at this, the folks at EK have said to NOT use plain distilled in their blocks, even with a biocide.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info
> 
> It has been a known issue.
> 
> I've been using EK blocks for over two years running mayhems coolants and never had an issue with it, and my blocks are always the nickel versions


Good to know, looks like I'll be doing my best to stay away from nickle plated blocks if I plan to continue w/ Distilled


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> First, go look at this, the folks at EK have said to NOT use plain distilled in their blocks, even with a biocide.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info
> 
> It has been a known issue.
> 
> I've been using EK blocks for over two years running mayhems coolants and never had an issue with it, and my blocks are always the nickel versions


Ah nuts. Well thanks. I did buy some pastel coolent to replace when I saw it. Right now I'm just trying figure out how to clean up the block before refilling.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Good to know, looks like I'll be doing my best to stay away from nickle plated blocks if I plan to continue w/ Distilled


No, just don't use EK's blocks or use a anti-corrosion additive.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Ah nuts. Well thanks. I did buy some pastel coolent to replace when I saw it. Right now I'm just trying figure out how to clean up the block before refilling.


Try a very diluted vinegar solution and use a toothbrush to scrub the block. Rinse with clean HOT water, the hotter the better.


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Try a very diluted vinegar solution and use a toothbrush to scrub the block. Rinse with clean HOT water, the hotter the better.


Thanks Man. Appreciate the help all.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Thanks Man. Appreciate the help all.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've had staining issues with my EK nickel blocks but so far no actual corrosion. Its been about a year that I've been running these Titan blocks but I haven't really torn into them yet to see what's what. The mobo and CPU blocks are going on two years and had no corrosion issues that I could see when I took the loop down to add my 4930K in November.


----------



## MiiX

Iv asked before, but I cannot remember:
Whats the difference between a nickle-plated copper block and a copper block?
Are there any (dis)advantages for either of the blocks?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Aesthetics. That's pretty much it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> First, go look at this, the folks at EK have said to NOT use plain distilled in their blocks, even with a biocide.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info
> 
> It has been a known issue.
> 
> I've been using EK blocks for over two years running mayhems coolants and never had an issue with it, and my blocks are always the nickel versions


He has Liquid Utopia in there which is a concentrated biocide and anti-corrosive agent. So it was not plain distilled water.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Iv asked before, but I cannot remember:
> Whats the difference between a nickle-plated copper block and a copper block?
> Are there any (dis)advantages for either of the blocks?


Aesthetics and also reduces oxidation of exposed copper.


----------



## Anoxy

I hope that's only an issue with Nickel blocks, or else I'm a little scared to pop my copper blocks open for my rebuild


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its 2 for standby power and 2 for the relay.
> 
> the 3 pin relay uses pin 1 and 3,I will check that for you tho.


Do you happen to have a guide where you gathered this info and how to do it?


----------



## VSG

lol I am glad I am not the only noob interested in learning how to do that. B-neg, fast_fate: I would really appreciate knowing exactly what to do. Since my build is complete I may end up having to use that ugly Aquaero power connect cable but I am willing to chop up my 24 pin ATX cable if that works.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> He has Liquid Utopia in there which is a concentrated biocide and anti-corrosive agent. So it was not plain distilled water.
> Aesthetics and also reduces oxidation of exposed copper.


Looks like it did it's job well


----------



## VSG

Well we don't even know it is corrosion that he has









So far so good for me though, my tubes are just as clear as they were 3 weeks ago.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well we don't even know it is corrosion that he has
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far so good for me though, my tubes are just as clear as they were 3 weeks ago.


Once you get to two plus years with zero flushing or cleaning, let me know.


----------



## Anoxy

Do any fluids even reach two plus years with zero flushing or cleaning?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Do any fluids even reach two plus years with zero flushing or cleaning?


My Pastel has, and by "flushing and cleaning" I'm not referring to system prep; proper system prep is mandatory for any cooling system, I'm referring to maintenance of the cooling loop.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Do any fluids even reach two plus years with zero flushing or cleaning?


Pastel maybe?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I am glad I am not the only noob interested in learning how to do that. B-neg, fast_fate: I would really appreciate knowing exactly what to do. Since my build is complete I may end up having to use that ugly Aquaero power connect cable but I am willing to chop up my 24 pin ATX cable if that works.


Yeah.... From what I remember the topic didn't go very far in the AQ6 thread... ended with "I think it can, with these tools"

I always assumed the relay device thing may play a part.


----------



## VSG

I am more interested in the emergency system shut down aspect but ya- same concept as using the AQ6 to turn on the PC. That IR remote will finally be useful and merit being taken out of the box.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Hey folks. I inspected my gpu blocks and found this. I believe it's some corrosion. Can anyone recommend a cleaning method? I've heard a few things but would like some advice. Any would be appreciated. Thanks


It look staining to me though.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I hope that's only an issue with Nickel blocks, or else I'm a little scared to pop my copper blocks open for my rebuild


But I read that you can clean the copper with ketchup. You can't clean bad nickel plating!! Or so I read.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah.... From what I remember the topic didn't go very far in the AQ6 thread... ended with "I think it can, with these tools"
> 
> I always assumed the relay device thing may play a part.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am more interested in the emergency system shut down aspect but ya- same concept as using the AQ6 to turn on the PC. That IR remote will finally be useful and merit being taken out of the box.


I'll see what I can put together this weekend in the form of a how to set up the wiring for it (for Aquaero 5)
I think that the Aquaero 6 doesn't have the standby - but I don't have one myself.
Can somebody else confirm that is correct - NYMD said his didn't have it so maybe they dropped it form the 5 models ??


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I'll see what I can put together this weekend in the form of a how to set up the wiring for it (for Aquaero 5)
> I think that the Aquaero 6 doesn't have the standby - but I don't have one myself.
> Can somebody else confirm that is correct - NYMD said his didn't have it so maybe they dropped it form the 5 models ??


tell me what it looks like, and i can confirm.


----------



## brazilianloser

So since I added my third radiator... and changed from regular distilled water to the PrimoChill clear one, I have this weird smell of burned rubber. Like someone was driving a miniature car and burning rubber behind me... No leaks, after much inspecting I dont see anything visibly wrong and temperatures are as low as they get.

Any thoughts?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> tell me what it looks like, and i can confirm.


top left the 1st picture is 2 pin for system standby for the Aquaero 5









2nd picture is of Aquaero 6 - no obvious standby power jack (or am I blind ???)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Distiller water with some mayhems dye and liquid utopia. I've checked the blocks for any nickel flaking. I can't see any but obviously it's only a surface inspection.
> 
> 
> 
> First, go look at this, the folks at EK have said to NOT use plain distilled in their blocks, even with a biocide.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info
> 
> It has been a known issue.
> 
> I've been using EK blocks for over two years running mayhems coolants and never had an issue with it, and my blocks are always the nickel versions
Click to expand...

That info is out of date,Niko has posted in this thread that Distilled is perfectly fine and does not affect your warranty.
Seeing as DI storage tanks are nickel plated,EK don't really have a reason not to allow it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That info is out of date,Niko has posted in this thread that Distilled is perfectly fine and does not affect your warranty.
> Seeing as DI storage tanks are nickel plated,EK don't really have a reason not to allow it.


Hey B-, do you have a link to Niko's post by any chance? And I'm not going to refute the DI storage tanks being nickel plated, but the last two tanks I've dealt with, one was an SAE 301 (DIN-1.4310) stainless steel, and the other was a high carbon A2 tool steel that was hard chrome plated.

And I still find it strange that most of the folks who have posted photos of their funky looking blocks have been running some form of plain distilled (plain meaning that they haven't used distilled as a base for a premix or a dedicated purpose built coolant, I am lumping the folks who run different biocides and "anti-corrosives" added to the straight distilled into the plain distilled group also)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Looks like it did it's job well


We have been through one instance of "Ahhh Corrosion" recently that then slowly turned into staining that cleaned off.

Use dyes = staining to clean


----------



## Neo Zuko

Two things:

1. Can an Aquaero 5/6 XT user tell me about the quality of that wireless keyboard and if it is actually useful over the Pro version? Like should I go with the Aqualis 6 Pro over the XT?

2. I have a Caselabs Merlin SM8 that can be reversed so that the window is on the other side and the motherboard is upside down or reverse ATX layout. I thought I might do this to better display the GPU waterblock. How would this affect my watercooling lines and cable-fu? Does this reverse layout make for an easier time or a harder time? The PSU is on the bottom of the motherboard and the loop is hardline acrylic tube.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> We have been through one instance of "Ahhh Corrosion" recently that then slowly turned into staining that cleaned off.
> 
> Use dyes = staining to clean


I agree completely, that's the point of a dye, to color something. I never said it was corrosion, all I said was that it might be caused by what he was running in it, and posted a link to some info, and suggested a way to try and CLEAN it. I've had flaky nickel blocks, they stopped flaking when I went to using the Mayhems products. I can't speak for any other coolants, I've only ever used straight distilled, or mayhems coolants. :twocents:


----------



## kpoeticg

The remote works with the Pro & XT. XT just comes with it. I have a Pro with the Remote as an accessory. Don't use the remote much right now. You can control your PC with it though, including mouse and keyboard

Edit: Also from other posts in the last cpl pages, there's definitely a few different ways to use the Aquaero for emergency shutdown. The easiest is if your mobo has fan monitoring in the bios. Just hook up a fan cable between the rpm header on the aquaero and the cpu fan header on the mobo.

Also can wire the power switch for your pc through the 3Pin Relay on the Aquaero.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That info is out of date,Niko has posted in this thread that Distilled is perfectly fine and does not affect your warranty.
> Seeing as DI storage tanks are nickel plated,EK don't really have a reason not to allow it.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey B-, do you have a link to Niko's post by any chance? And I'm not going to refute the DI storage tanks being nickel plated, but the last two tanks I've dealt with, one was an SAE 301 (DIN-1.4310) stainless steel, and the other was a high carbon A2 tool steel that was hard chrome plated.
> 
> And I still find it strange that most of the folks who have posted photos of their funky looking blocks have been running some form of plain distilled (plain meaning that they haven't used distilled as a base for a premix or a dedicated purpose built coolant, I am lumping the folks who run different biocides and "anti-corrosives" added to the straight distilled into the plain distilled group also)
Click to expand...

Sadly I don't,it started a long row with Niko about the same subject,I posted that info and he shot it down.
Try PM EKtiborr and he can elaborate.

Most of the DI tanks I have seen have been plastic,that info was got from a DI tech forum regarding problem storage tanks.


----------



## Jimhans1

Yeah, I'll see what Tiborr says. Thanks though.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The remote works with the Pro & XT. XT just comes with it. I have a Pro with the Remote as an accessory. Don't use the remote much right now. You can control your PC with it though, including mouse and keyboard
> 
> Edit: Also from other posts in the last cpl pages, there's definitely a few different ways to use the Aquaero for emergency shutdown. The easiest is if your mobo has fan monitoring in the bios. Just hook up a fan cable between the rpm header on the aquaero and the cpu fan header on the mobo.
> 
> Also can wire the power switch for your pc through the 3Pin Relay on the Aquaero.


Oh cool, my upper end ROG board do that. So how does the auto shutdown work exactly from the cpu fan? I am lost there.


----------



## Zooty Cat




----------



## sinnedone

Someone's wife is going to be mad they can't wash clothes, lol









I haven't started picking out my fittings, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to be using more than the washing machin.

Last time iI took over the dining room table for a month. (wife want happy) lol


----------



## Ice Reign

Update: Cleaned the block with a toothbrush and a diluted vinegar solution, then rinsed with hot water, then flushed with distilled. The block doesn't look like it did when I unboxed it, but its pretty damn close, so thanks very much for the advise! Appears that it was just staining.

However it was a good news, bad news scenario. After I put the plexi top back on, I found that a small crack had formed near one of the screw threads (likely from over tightening). The crack though small is past the o-ring, so when I was flushing and leak testing, it failed...Going to go find some acrylic cement (Weld On) and pray to the almighty flying spaghetti monster that it welds the crack shut. Do not want to have to buy a replacement top if I don't have to...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Update: Cleaned the block with a toothbrush and a diluted vinegar solution, then rinsed with hot water, then flushed with distilled. The block doesn't look like it did when I unboxed it, but its pretty damn close, so thanks very much for the advise! Appears that it was just staining.
> 
> However it was a good news, bad news scenario. After I put the plexi top back on, I found that a small crack had formed near one of the screw threads (likely from over tightening). The crack though small is past the o-ring, so when I was flushing and leak testing, it failed...Going to go find some acrylic cement (Weld On) and pray to the almighty flying spaghetti monster that it welds the crack shut. Do not want to have to buy a replacement top if I don't have to...


glad it worked out for you...sort of.

I did the same thing with an old EK titan block, overtightened when watching tv and putting the block back together, used some acrylic cold weld and it worked perfectly.


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> glad it worked out for you...sort of.
> 
> I did the same thing with an old EK titan block, overtightened when watching tv and putting the block back together, used some acrylic cold weld and it worked perfectly.


Sweet. At least I know it worked for someone else. I read about people sealing up leaks in their large fish tanks, so I figure the pressure fluid pressure wouldn't be an issue. Do you happen to remember the brand and type you used? There are apparently TONS of different Weld On Acrylic cements with different properties. Figure if i have a starting point that would help.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> Sweet. At least I know it worked for someone else. I read about people sealing up leaks in their large fish tanks, so I figure the pressure fluid pressure wouldn't be an issue. Do you happen to remember the brand and type you used? There are apparently TONS of different Weld On Acrylic cements with different properties. Figure if i have a starting point that would help.


dont remember the brand but i remember it being cheap and some generic stuff lol, but it worked fine with no problems.


----------



## szeged

in other news, i got my build log rig ressurected from the dead, still gonna have to take it apart again to fix a couple bends that didnt look as bad when they werent filled up


Spoiler: Warning: Click here to kill a 56k connection!


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> in other news, i got my build log rig ressurected from the dead, still gonna have to take it apart again to fix a couple bends that didnt look as bad when they werent filled up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Click here to kill a 56k connection!


I love it!


----------



## Liquored

2) *Cooler Master Elite 130 - Phobya G-Changer 140mm Radiator - EK GeForce 780 GTX Ti VGA Liquid Cooling Block - BitsPower Full-Cover ASUS Maximus VI Impact Water Block*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







*Cooler Master Elite 110 - CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken x40*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> in other news, i got my build log rig ressurected from the dead, still gonna have to take it apart again to fix a couple bends that didnt look as bad when they werent filled up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Click here to kill a 56k connection!


Turned out really well, looks nice and clean


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> in other news, i got my build log rig ressurected from the dead, still gonna have to take it apart again to fix a couple bends that didnt look as bad when they werent filled up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Click here to kill a 56k connection!






Every sexy, nice work. Lighting incoming?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Seems to be quite the family in this thread, but since only about 30% of the posts are of pictures, I think I better ask for some ideas than look through all of them









I was entertaining the thought of adding a drain to my loop, and was looking for ideas to do it. So far I haven't put together any watercooling, but I did score a used xspc 240 kit for cheap, so I will start with that. I will be redoing the tubing and likely going with compression fittings, but since it will be "custom" I wanted to add a few other things.

I was thinking of adding one of those inline water temp gauges, and then some sort of drain tube or if you guys have some creative and better looking ideas than just a straight bit of tube coming off a T connector with a cap on the end...

I really don't even see that many people with a dedicated drain, at least nothing out of place or noticeable if they do.

And while i'm here in the guru thread, will this Bitspower temp sensor work ok with the XSPC temp lcd display? THey both have same pins, and I've seen someone mod an older style LCD (XSPC) with it before, and it worked. I know XSPC has there own branded sensor, but the Bitspower one has a better range of temperature. The only other question about this combo, will that sensor have any issues with xspc equipment as far as metal compatibilities? XSPC stuff seems to be copper/brass, the Bitspower sensor says "shining silver" but it may just be chrome plated.


----------



## 15goudreau

You want a drain port. From experience it makes things 100x easier when performing maintenance and leak testing etc.... If you don't see one on a majority of the builds its because they are usually hidden.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Agreed. A dedicated drain is a MUST in my opinion (though many others vehemently disagree with that)...



This is what I used for a drain solution. Also stuck a temp sensor in there as well. This is plumbed after the bottom rad at the lowest point in the loop and hidden on the back side in the basement of my TJ11. Draining the loop takes about 10 seconds after turning the tap to the ON position...


----------



## VSG

And this is my solution:



It is at the front bottom of my 900D, using the drain port on the Alphacool Monsta. When not in use, it is hidden away by the front fan filter and the front aluminum faschia. When in use, I hook up a long piece of tubing and a compression fitting to the valve.

I made the mistake of flipping over the radiator during the build so the drain port is not as low as it could have been. But it does the job very well.


----------



## Ice Reign

I drilled a hole in the bottom of my 600T and have a ball valve down there. I connect a barb fitting, open the valve and the fluid mostly drains without me having to do much. I would highly recommend it.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> And this is my solution:
> 
> 
> 
> It is at the front bottom of my 900D, using the drain port on the Alphacool Monsta. When not in use, it is hidden away by the front fan filter and the front aluminum faschia. When in use, I hook up a long piece of tubing and a compression fitting to the valve.
> 
> I made the mistake of flipping over the radiator during the build so the drain port is not as low as it could have been. But it does the job very well.


Thanks for ideas so far. I have seen those valves, wasn't sure if they were trustworthy, but I see the one in your pic is capped at the end as well, that would be quite secure.


----------



## VSG

Ya that was just for redundancy, but the valve by itself should work fine as well.


----------



## Eze2kiel




----------



## VSG

That's a very nice piece of work in what seems like a tough case to watercool in!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya that was just for redundancy, but the valve by itself should work fine as well.


Ya, looking at the prices of those now.. about $25 for the valve, they better be good enough to standalone at that price lol. Every time I keep shopping and thinking of options to do this... so much more $$. This cheap xspc kit is going to end up costing a lot more I suspect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*


That gpu has a heck of an arch to it, Nice work on the WC though.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Ya, looking at the prices of those now.. about $25 for the valve, they better be good enough to standalone at that price lol. Every time I keep shopping and thinking of options to do this... so much more $$. This cheap xspc kit is going to end up costing a lot more I suspect.


Any ball valve will do, you don't need to get the $20 Bitspower ones. It is hard to get a ball valve wrong. I got 2 bitspower ones and 1 Koolance valve that you see in there and I prefer the construction of the koolance valve honestly.


----------



## DoktorTerror

http://www.overclock.net/t/1465810/build-log-mamba-540/0_20































http://www.overclock.net/t/1465810/build-log-mamba-540/0_20


----------



## GaMbi2004

Hi boys and girls!

I need opinions on my newly started acrylic project (im a first timer)
This is as fare as I have gotten so fare.. seamed surpricingly easy to bend the acrylics







I have done 3 bends so fare (one was a test bend) and they all look "perfect"










Im currently stuck at the last tube, from CPU to 120mm radiator.
The radiator port is a bit higher than my GPU port, so... yea









I tried illustrating the 3 options that I have come up with..


The Blue line only requires 2 bends, but will probably not look as good as the other 2 options.
The Red line will have the bend parallel with the GPU->CPU bend, then go a bit higher when lining up with rad port and then a last bend to the rad port (all 90 degree bends)
The Green line is kinda the same as the red, just the first bend starts way further down..

IMO the red will probably look the best! what do you guys think?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> in other news, i got my build log rig ressurected from the dead, still gonna have to take it apart again to fix a couple bends that didnt look as bad when they werent filled up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Click here to kill a 56k connection!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks really good....


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> That gpu has a heck of an arch to it, Nice work on the WC though.


http://www.imagebam.com/image/7013f9310954848


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My loop became a real pain to drain.
So, I ordered a pair of quick disconnect fittings from Koolance and some norprene hose. Now I should be able to just connect the hose and it should automatically drain.

I made the noob mistake of not planning on draining, so hopefully this helps those who made the same mistake I did, and are looking for an easier solution to draining.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My loop became a real pain to drain.
> So, I ordered a pair of quick disconnect fittings from Koolance and some norprene hose. Now I should be able to just connect the hose and it should automatically drain.
> 
> I made the noob mistake of not planning on draining, so hopefully this helps those who made the same mistake I did, and are looking for an easier solution to draining.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


man dat norprene looks good wit dem qdc's. im saying, if u gonna do watercooling - especially in a big case - you gots to have a drain. i usually do ball valve for my drain, but im definitely gonna try qdc's next.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> man dat norprene looks good wit dem qdc's. im saying, if u gonna do watercooling - especially in a big case - you gots to have a drain. i usually do ball valve for my drain, but im definitely gonna try qdc's next.


Yeah, I was also surprised on how good it looks. I did a poor job planning a drain, but thanks to the extra ports on my alphacool rad, I could improvise.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*


I have nightmares about that style of Lian Li cases. I owned one and my uncle fell on the upper HD cage. After a month of fruitless attempts to contact Lian Li directly I had to pay about $85 to replace it from the Lian Li USA distributor. They made me pay shipping from overseas and all. Just to get a simple piece of metal. Nowadays I would just mod it but I don't have to worry about that. Caselabs has me covered as they offer replacement parts.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Ya, looking at the prices of those now.. about $25 for the valve, they better be good enough to standalone at that price lol. Every time I keep shopping and thinking of options to do this... so much more $$. This cheap xspc kit is going to end up costing a lot more I suspect.
> That gpu has a heck of an arch to it, Nice work on the WC though.


Wow, that it does. .


----------



## LostKauz




----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My loop became a real pain to drain.
> So, I ordered a pair of quick disconnect fittings from Koolance and some norprene hose. Now I should be able to just connect the hose and it should automatically drain.
> 
> I made the noob mistake of not planning on draining, so hopefully this helps those who made the same mistake I did, and are looking for an easier solution to draining.


Hmm, now that's a slick idea. Just incorporate a quick disconnect anywhere low in the loop, buy a 2nd identical quick disconnect and just hook it up with a bit of extra tubing like you have, when needed. Keeps the loop together and no need for extra drain parts as it becomes an optional attachment at that point.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Got the custom acrylic bracket I made mounted to the case. The reservoir mounted to it.

My planned loop order is: RESERVOIR > PUMP > FRONT RAD > CPU BLOCK > TOP RAD > GPU1 > GPU2 > RESERVOIR.


----------



## hotdun




----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Hmm, now that's a slick idea. Just incorporate a quick disconnect anywhere low in the loop, buy a 2nd identical quick disconnect and just hook it up with a bit of extra tubing like you have, when needed. Keeps the loop together and no need for extra drain parts as it becomes an optional attachment at that point.


Pretty much.


----------



## skupples

I just purchased Strong Island's STH-10.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just purchased Strong Island's STH-10.


nice


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Does this work?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Your tubing is blue AND clear o.o


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just purchased Strong Island's STH-10.


Congrats man! I wonder what he's moving into?


----------



## VSG

A test bench for water and LN2. Congrats Skuppy, I was so torn up about buying it before I got rid of my 900D but I am glad it went to someone who would make good use of it anyway. I guess I will just wait it out till Caselabs unvieils Gemini.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Oh cool, thanks! Caselabs makes a mighty fine case but I really can't imagine ever replacing my TJ11. Its just the perfect case for me...


----------



## VSG

lol if you knew the deal he probably got (assuming it was the same I was offered), you might have second thoughts. Either way, I am looking forward to seeing both SI 1 and Skupples' works now


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Congrats man! I wonder what he's moving into?


LN2 bug.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Oh cool, thanks! Caselabs makes a mighty fine case but I really can't imagine ever replacing my TJ11. Its just the perfect case for me...


----------



## stickg1

I got my motherboard today and decided to mess around with the new case, get an idea of where I'm going to put things and how much space it takes up. This case is awesome...


----------



## VSG

Now everyone start posting their Caselabs builds to make me feel worse









At least Amazon gave me an EVGA Pro SLI bridge for free today, so that's something!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Now everyone start posting their Caselabs builds to make me feel worse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least Amazon gave me an EVGA Pro SLI bridge for free today, so that's something!


Hopefully that bridge works. They had a huge issue with the first batch. I had 3 2-way bridges and 2 3-ways that were DOA.


----------



## Jakewat

Getting there...
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsf8a471c5.jpg.html

Need opinions on the run to the top rad. Angled or Horizontal?
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps4f9db48f.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsba328796.jpg.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Getting there...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsf8a471c5.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Need opinions on the run to the top rad. Angled or Horizontal?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps4f9db48f.jpg.html
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsba328796.jpg.html


I think the horizontal looks better.


----------



## skupples

Horizontal.

Should also rotate your block so that the ports are vertical. Ever so slight increase in cooling power.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Horizontal.
> 
> Should also rotate your block so that the ports are vertical. Ever so slight increase in cooling power.


Yeah I learnt that after I installed the block, but really I'm not too fussed, I'm more of an aesthetics kid rather than performance and even if it did straighten that cpu > gpu bend out I prefer it horizontal.


----------



## szeged

definitely go with horizontal

digging the gigabyte board, nice to see a change from all the asus maximus builds going on atm.


----------



## King4x4

A couple more of my hydra 2 build... getting there finally!





The causalities of modding!


----------



## Jakewat

There, that's all for tonight. Hopefully I can finish and start filling her up tomorrow








http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsb06171d7.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps88265f32.jpg.html


----------



## skupples

Looks amazing...

It may be the 3AM cool florida air.... I just realized Phobya's slogan is FEAR IT... Yes, yes I do.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Anoxy

Yes, it seems we all have a phobia of phobya.


----------



## wermad

Phobya compression fittings user here. Happy to report no air leaks so far.....wait....where's the watah!









edit: in all seriousness, these compression fittings have been pretty smooth to screw on and off. No complaints so far but I have yet to test them in their element.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotdun*


Think I saw this on head-fi.org too.
Questions: What cans are those? the pinkish ones on the first pic.
and where are the rads hidden?

More pics would help =)


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yes, it seems we all have a phobia of phobya.


Got a Phobya 220 pump here, running for over a year...no heat, no noise, no problems.


----------



## Art128

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Think I saw this on head-fi.org too.
> Questions: What cans are those? the pinkish ones on the first pic.
> and where are the rads hidden?
> 
> More pics would help =)


Looks like some Audio Technica ATH AD700.
You can see a white rad on the last picture, behind the rig.


----------



## hotdun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Think I saw this on head-fi.org too.
> Questions: What cans are those? the pinkish ones on the first pic.
> and where are the rads hidden?
> 
> More pics would help =)


You did! Cans are ATH-AD700's like Art128 said, nothing fancy but looking to upgrade to the ATH-AD2000X soon. The radiator is hidden in the back of the case, Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360 White. You can kind of see it in the pictures. This isn't my picture but here's how it's mounted:


----------



## kpoeticg

Just grabbed 4 more AP-15's and 8 more AP-00's. That should keep me stocked up for a while


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Just grabbed 4 more AP-15's and 8 more AP-00's. That should keep me stocked up for a while


hoarder!


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1465810/build-log-mamba-540/0_20
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1465810/build-log-mamba-540/0_20


Bring it on


----------



## stickg1

Koolance CPU-380i or EK Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel/Plexi?

I can't decide. My GPU block is clean plexi/nickel and my VRM block is all acetal because that's the only option. I have lots of nickel and shining silver, and lots of black and white. I think both will look good, I just can't make a decision!

I have a build log in my sig if you want to see the system it will be in.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Oh cool, thanks! Caselabs makes a mighty fine case but I really can't imagine ever replacing my TJ11. Its just the perfect case for me...


I've touched and briefly owned both, no question I like Caselabs more just on sheer thickness and feel of the metal. And the Caselabs S8 takes the hanging stress off of the motherboard just like the Silverstone FT02 and TJ11 (in a different way). I like Silverstone a lot, but Caselabs is just on a whole other level of quality. But Caselabs is also priced much higher and could never sell the mass market numbers the FT02 did.


----------



## VSG

I went with the Koolance 380 because it fit well with the silver shining fittings. But that was before I was made aware of their ridiculous warranty policy.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Phobya compression fittings user here. Happy to report no air leaks so far.....wait....where's the watah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: in all seriousness, these compression fittings have been pretty smooth to screw on and off. No complaints so far but I have yet to test them in their element.


Eh... Iv'e only ever used their fan splitters/cheep things & a few other odds and ends... The 5 way splitters I have REQUIRE electrical tape to keep headers connected.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hopefully that bridge works. They had a huge issue with the first batch. I had 3 2-way bridges and 2 3-ways that were DOA.


Ya, I heard those too. This one works great though


----------



## stickg1

I think I'll get the Koolance. I'll probably just wait for Anoxy's. Poor fella is in the middle of moving, a pain for anyone but especially with massive delicate machinery to move!

I need one of those PCB fan splitters. Which ones would you all recommend? I have 10 fans to power.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think I'll get the Koolance. I'll probably just wait for Anoxy's. Poor fella is in the middle of moving, a pain for anyone but especially with massive delicate machinery to move!
> 
> I need one of those PCB fan splitters. Which ones would you all recommend? I have 10 fans to power.


Not the phobya ones.

I would say your best bet is to use one of these, with 2 way Y splitters, then use a long cable to the fan controller/mobo header..

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32844

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40251

Iv'e never used the Modright/Modsmart high count Y splitters, they may work fine, but they look like they use the same headers as the Phobya splitters.


----------



## VSG

If you need PWM splitters, send me a PM.


----------



## stickg1

I'm just worried that 5 fans on one motherboard header will be too much. The fans are 1200RPMs and quiet so I might just run them full speed. I'm thinking something MOLEX powered would ease my concerns.


----------



## VSG

Things like that is why I prefer PWM fans, but ya- definitely get a powered splitter for sure.


----------



## Kimir

I'll be using a couple of those on my new rig.


----------



## stickg1

@geggeg - I'm on the jobsite now but PWM is an option, I haven't ordered fans yet. Could you PM me about the splitters?


----------



## VSG

PM sent


----------



## CastorTroy

Got my loop running finally(pic is from while still bleeding/leak testing):



Couple things that I'm not happy with. Not a big fan of the bitspower pump top or elbows.

Also, the swiftech pwm block does not appear to be working with my noctua fans







It is reporting that the fans are running at 400rpm, but they are going full blast right now.

Performance is pretty good so far though, 39C full load on the 290x in furmark. Haven't prime95'd the cpu yet, but that is on my list


----------



## kpoeticg

Are BP C48's considered sturdy for SLI/CFX connections? Or do you guys recommend C47's or Adjustable AquaLink Pipes?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Heh stick you're at a "job site" when at home too!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotdun*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Embody.









Dyed the fans for my build last night. Rather happy w/ the outcome.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-11.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-9.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

I tried dyeing a GT blade with Rit before i realized Rit changed their damn formula. I might try again with Prosperse Disperse Dye after i sort out some more important parts of my build =)

Edit: @lowfat what do you use to re-lubricate the spindle? I was using WD40 before til i realized it was also a penetrant...


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Are BP C48's considered sturdy for SLI/CFX connections? Or do you guys recommend C47's or Adjustable AquaLink Pipes?


Go with c47, more strenght,


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Are BP C48's considered sturdy for SLI/CFX connections? Or do you guys recommend C47's or Adjustable AquaLink Pipes?


I personally don't trust the C48's as SLI fittings, I've gone to either C47's, the EK hard fittings, or adjustable aqua's, last system, in the SM8 for my wife, I used the EK rigids, on the SM8 for my store display, I used the Black Adj Aqualinks, I'm sure we will see people say, "aw, the C48's work fine", I just don't trust the single o-ring as an sli bridge fitting, there is too much movement capable from GPU's when they have their big ol blocks on them.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Multipurpose teflon I imagine would work well as a lubricant.

That sleeving on the GTs looks great!! I really want to sleeve my GTs.. their stock wiring is poop.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Go with c47, more strenght,


This ^^^^^^


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx guys. Much appreciated. C47 it is =)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I tried dyeing a GT blade with Rit before i realized Rit changed their damn formula. I might try again with Prosperse Disperse Dye after i sort out some more important parts of my build =)
> 
> Edit: @lowfat
> what do you use to re-lubricate the spindle? I was using WD40 before til i realized it was also a penetrant...


Nothing, I never removed any of the original lube.

I removed the fan hubs from the blades before dying.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-8.jpg.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I tried dyeing a GT blade with Rit before i realized Rit changed their damn formula. I might try again with Prosperse Disperse Dye after i sort out some more important parts of my build =)
> 
> Edit: @lowfat
> what do you use to re-lubricate the spindle? I was using WD40 before til i realized it was also a penetrant...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nothing, I never removed any of the original lube.
> 
> I removed the fan hubs from the blades before dying.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-8.jpg.html


Just a thought for you, but when I re-lubricate my GT's, I personally use a Teflon infused light gun oil (I have a lot of that stuff around







), and it works awesome. Even as quiet as GTs are it almost makes them a black hole for sound


----------



## kpoeticg

After throwing them in a pot of boiling dye, i always feel the need to throw some oil in there

Never heard of light gun oil. I'm gonna look into it though.


----------



## khemist

New cpu block and 780 ti classy block in my TJ08-E.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotdun*


That is beautiful.


----------



## wermad

I'm using fan hubs. Work great in conjunction with my fan controller.

@skups... I've had a few of the rotary and adapters leak on me.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nothing, I never removed any of the original lube.
> 
> I removed the fan hubs from the blades before dying.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-8.jpg.html


Now you making me want to dye my GTs. They probably need new lube anyway since they are over two to three years old now.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> After throwing them in a pot of boiling dye, i always feel the need to throw some oil in there
> 
> Never heard of light gun oil. I'm gonna look into it though.


Find a local store or go online and order a bottle of Shooters Choice FP10. Works great for anything that needs lube, not just guns!! (Ok, it doesn't work on "everything" that needs lube







but it's still one of the best lubricants on the market)


----------



## Angrychair

yeah I use FP10 on my colt and kimber


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> yeah I use FP10 on my colt and kimber


Yeah, I use it on all of my gats!!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

If I can hear the pitch of the fans going up and down, is that probably a lubrication issue? It goes away when I dial it down 100 rpm.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> If I can hear the pitch of the fans going up and down, is that probably a lubrication issue? It goes away when I dial it down 100 rpm.


Or the power to them us fluctuating. Are you using a fan controller?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nice Embody.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dyed the fans for my build last night. Rather happy w/ the outcome.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-11.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-9.jpg.html


What dye did you use on those fan blades lowfat?

Do they have them in white? Else I'm looking at spraypaint....


----------



## kpoeticg

There's no white dye for plastics. Or maybe for anything at all

Dye is pigment. You'll have to paint it if you want it white

Prosperse Disperse Dye is great for dyeing plastics & nylons though. Google it. I think the website is ProChemicalsAndDyes.com (or something like that)

You'll also wanna buy the dye carrier. Like i said, you won't find white dye for plastics though


----------



## 15goudreau

What about bleach







would that work?


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> What dye did you use on those fan blades lowfat?
> 
> Do they have them in white? Else I'm looking at spraypaint....


FYI spraypaint leads to balance issues. even if you are careful. its a PITA


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> FYI spraypaint leads to balance issues. even if you are careful. its a PITA


That's why I would rather avoid it all together but these blades aren't going to turn themselves white!

Unless I go blue....


----------



## Thrasher1016

To the contrary, look HERE.

Helped me tremendously!

Thanks - T


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i'm not courageous enough to paint fan blades either. That's why i learned a little bit about dyeing.

Bleaching would be the only way to make them white. It would also weaken the fan blades and could cause alot of potential problems (making painting less risky)

Blue should be easy enough depending on the fans. Just remember that it's ALWAYS easier to dye something to a darker shade. Dyeing to a lighter shade can be tricky to impossible. That's why some dye makers sell dye remover to lighten the color first. That probly wouldn't be good on fans though

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> To the contrary, look HERE.
> 
> Helped me tremendously!
> 
> Thanks - T


A ton of people paint fans. Linking a guide to painting fan blades doesn't contradict a single thing any1 said LOLLLLL

It's risky and has to be done PERFECTLY or else you'll throw off the balance of the fans. Basically, painting fans can take away everything that makes good rad fans-good rad fans. Like GT's for instance. Put a tiny bit of extra paint in one area and you might as well just buy some cheap colored fans instead

It can definitely be done. Just gotta do it perfectly


----------



## kpoeticg

*Edit* b2b post


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Prosperse Disperse Dye is great for dyeing plastics & nylons though. Google it. I think the website is ProChemicalsAndDyes.com (or something like that)
> You'll also wanna buy the dye carrier. Like i said, you won't find white dye for plastics though


This is what I use.


----------



## stickg1

I spray painted some stock Fractal fans yellow. Just really light dustings of paint several times about 10 minutes apart until they were covered.

They seemed well balanced. They didn't make an noises, wobble, or show any indications of problems. Granted they are relatively low RPM and quiet fans so that probably helped. I imagine painting a 2400RPM fan, for example, would take more precision.


----------



## 15goudreau

Blue dye it is then!


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's no white dye for plastics. Or maybe for anything at all
> 
> Dye is pigment. You'll have to paint it if you want it white
> 
> Prosperse Disperse Dye is great for dyeing plastics & nylons though. Google it. I think the website is ProChemicalsAndDyes.com (or something like that)
> You'll also wanna buy the dye carrier. Like i said, you won't find white dye for plastics though


Whats the dye carrier?

Also lowfat how many oz did you need per fan?


----------



## kpoeticg

It's called "Dye Carrier"

You mix it with the Dye to help it get the right consistency. It should be on the same page as the Prosperse Disperse Dye.

@cpachris did a great guide about it. He used it mostly for dyeing sleeving, but also dyes a fan and molex's

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye

He goes through alot of trial and error in it. He finds the right balance closer to the end of the guide


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CastorTroy*
> 
> Got my loop running finally(pic is from while still bleeding/leak testing):
> 
> 
> 
> Couple things that I'm not happy with. Not a big fan of the bitspower pump top or elbows.
> 
> Also, the swiftech pwm block does not appear to be working with my noctua fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is reporting that the fans are running at 400rpm, but they are going full blast right now.
> 
> Performance is pretty good so far though, 39C full load on the 290x in furmark. Haven't prime95'd the cpu yet, but that is on my list


What and how many radiators do you have in there and @ which RPM does your fans spin? Nice temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nice Embody.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dyed the fans for my build last night. Rather happy w/ the outcome.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-11.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-9.jpg.html


I did the same only painted them, so I didn't have to re oil them.





Also started a new watercooled build log for the ones interested, more photo's of the fans installed in the case are in there









http://www.overclock.net/t/1466424/build-log-caselabs-mercury-s3-black-copper-themed-watercooled-mitx-ek-fc-r9-290x-acetal/0_50


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's called "Dye Carrier"
> 
> You mix it with the Dye to help it get the right consistency. It should be on the same page as the Prosperse Disperse Dye.
> 
> @cpachris
> did a great guide about it. He used it mostly for dyeing sleeving, but also dyes a fan and molex's
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye
> 
> He goes through alot of trial and error in it. He finds the right balance closer to the end of the guide


I didn't see it right away. Awesome thanks a bunch


----------



## kpoeticg

NP. Good luck


----------



## pat102ko

Just finished up my new loop in the nzxt h440.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> What dye did you use on those fan blades lowfat?
> 
> Do they have them in white? Else I'm looking at spraypaint....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's no white dye for plastics. Or maybe for anything at all
> 
> Dye is pigment. You'll have to paint it if you want it white
> 
> Prosperse Disperse Dye is great for dyeing plastics & nylons though. Google it. I think the website is ProChemicalsAndDyes.com (or something like that)
> You'll also wanna buy the dye carrier. Like i said, you won't find white dye for plastics though


White Vinyl dye should work. you should be able to pick it up @ any auto-parts store.

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP943-Vinyl-White-Satin/dp/B000CPCROA

example of it's use can be found on Tek Syndicate's white system build. They used that stuff on everything, including GPU fans.


----------



## kpoeticg

Interesting, I've heard in alot of places that White Dye doesn't exist. Including a post from Mayhem on OC3D about dyeing noctua fans. I wonder how they make that white vinyl dye

The great thing about dye is it has no weight. It chemically bonds with the substance you put it on. I wonder if they had to use paint for that vinyl dye


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Seems to be quite the family in this thread, but since only about 30% of the posts are of pictures, I think I better ask for some ideas than look through all of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was entertaining the thought of adding a drain to my loop, and was looking for ideas to do it. So far I haven't put together any watercooling, but I did score a used xspc 240 kit for cheap, so I will start with that. I will be redoing the tubing and likely going with compression fittings, but since it will be "custom" I wanted to add a few other things.
> 
> I was thinking of adding one of those inline water temp gauges, and then some sort of drain tube or if you guys have some creative and better looking ideas than just a straight bit of tube coming off a T connector with a cap on the end...
> 
> I really don't even see that many people with a dedicated drain, at least nothing out of place or noticeable if they do.
> 
> And while i'm here in the guru thread, will this work ok ..... THey both have same pins, and I've seen someone mod an older style LCD (XSPC) with it before, and it worked. I know XSPC has there own branded sensor, but the Bitspower one has a better range of temperature. The only other question about this combo, will that sensor have any issues with xspc equipment as far as metal compatibilities? XSPC stuff seems to be copper/brass, the Bitspower sensor says "shining silver" but it may just be chrome plated.


This to my view is the most suitable drain port option on a bottom radiator .... obviously a drain works best when it's at the lowest point on ya loop.....so better the bottom port than the 7th "drain" port. Since ya don't like the idea of a T with a plug, this is a bit more elegant, it's a better fit for a tight space, almost invisible under the Rad and no valve req'd which wouldn't have fit in my case.




That's a Bitspower 90 followed by a BP M X M, BP 30mm extension, BP 10mm extension (I wuda used a 40mm but had the other 2 on hand) and a Bitspower male disconnect....that's on a 280 so you can drop the 10mm extension on a 240

Use the matching female disconnect fitting, with a compression fitting and suitable length of flex tubing and keep that in ya drawer.

I have 6 temp sensors in the box in my siggie all connected to the Reeven Six Eyes which gives ya 6 temp and rpm displays

Rad 1 In / Rad 1 Out
Rad 2 In / Rad 2 Out
Ambient Air / Case Air

last one wasn't in yet in pic below


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/3ogho3j
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New cpu block and 780 ti classy block in my TJ08-E.


That's a 180mm rad correct? How does it handle the heat coming from your CPU and GPU?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, i'm not courageous enough to paint fan blades either. That's why i learned a little bit about dyeing.
> 
> Bleaching would be the only way to make them white. It would also weaken the fan blades and could cause alot of potential problems (making painting less risky)
> 
> Blue should be easy enough depending on the fans. Just remember that it's ALWAYS easier to dye something to a darker shade. Dyeing to a lighter shade can be tricky to impossible. That's why some dye makers sell dye remover to lighten the color first. That probly wouldn't be good on fans though
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> 
> To the contrary, look HERE.
> 
> Helped me tremendously!
> 
> Thanks - T
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ton of people paint fans. Linking a guide to painting fan blades doesn't contradict a single thing any1 said LOLLLLL
> 
> It's risky and has to be done PERFECTLY or else you'll throw off the balance of the fans. Basically, painting fans can take away everything that makes good rad fans-good rad fans. Like GT's for instance. Put a tiny bit of extra paint in one area and you might as well just buy some cheap colored fans instead
> 
> It can definitely be done. Just gotta do it perfectly
Click to expand...

Have you actually tried to paint fans yourself? While I somewhat agree with your statements...you speak as though you're afraid to even try it, and are trying to put that same fear into anyone else who has the idea to wanna try it. I've painted plenty of fans in my time, and I can guarantee you they were definitely not PERFECT, yet I have had no issues and they run just fine. No odd noises, no wobbling, no change in temps when I put them back on my rads. I just take my time with the painting, prepping is key, multiple light coats with around 10 mins in between...and it always works out fine for me.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Here's how my drain set up looks like in action.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Have you actually tried to paint fans yourself? While I somewhat agree with your statements...you speak as though you're afraid to even try it, and are trying to put that same fear into anyone else who has the idea to wanna try it. I've painted plenty of fans in my time, and I can guarantee you they were definitely not PERFECT, yet I have had no issues and they run just fine. No odd noises, no wobbling, no change in temps when I put them back on my rads. I just take my time with the painting, prepping is key, multiple light coats with around 10 mins in between...and it always works out fine for me.


I wasn't trying to scare anybody. I wasn't even the one that brought it up. Just jumped in the convo.

Yes i am scurred to paint my fans when dyeing is an option. I'm not experienced with painting. I have heard plenty of horror stories though. And seen youtube vids of poorly painted GT's. It's not the end of the world, but neither is choosing a coolermaster sickleflow over a GT.

I'm definitely not an expert on the subject, and sorry if i came off like i was. I've done alot of research about dyeing fans so i generally feel like i have something to add to those convo's.

But also, as you say your fans weren't PERFECT, i know that you're not any type of spring chicken with modding LOL. So your version of not perfect wouldn't be the same as somebody doing it for the first time just like "I'm gonna paint my fan today because it sounds fun"

I did say that plenty of people do it without problems....

With all the thought and stress people put into choosing rad fans, some people don't realize that paint can have a huge affect on that.

Edit: My perspective on it is like this. How long have GT's been out for? How many companies have tried to replicate them, or do better? Companies with the resources to make great fans just can't get the recipe right. Right? Right.

There's something about the 2BB's, Torque, Blade Structure, and Balance that nobody can seem to replicate.

A layer of paint affects every piece of that equation. I'm all about modding, but i just view GT's as a fragile formula that i don't wanna mess with when dyeing is an option.


----------



## wermad

I tried painting fans and its a pita. Led do the color job for moi


----------



## DarkSayian84

My rig completed yesterday. Prodigy build


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I tried painting fans and its a pita. Led do the color job for moi


Saw these on my deals app...thought of you. Not sure if it's a good deal or if you even need more, but figured I'd let you know









http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=AA85430&px=DN#.UxFEBfldVSM


----------



## CastorTroy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> What and how many radiators do you have in there and @ which RPM does your fans spin? Nice temps.


Just one EK XT 360, with three Noctua NF-F12s @ 1200RPM(43.7cfm @ 1.83mm h2o static pressure).

Prime95+furmark yielded:

FX-8350 @ stock: 45c
FX-8350 @ 4.5ghz/1.41v: 49c(is stable now, going to see if i can get it to stay stable at a lower voltage)
R9 290X @ stock: 42c

Overall i'm pretty satisfied.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkSayian84*
> 
> 
> 
> My rig completed yesterday. Prodigy build


I LOVE XSPC GPU blocks. How I wish they made one for my cards!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Gotta love those XSPC blocks! They aren't my first choice to be honest but they sure look mighty nice!


----------



## Jakewat

Got to ask for some opinions. Keep the fittings nickel or paint black?
This was an absolute mission to get these runs and fittings to work.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps76609c9f.jpg.html

And you may be wondering why I have this stupid run down here, well I wasn't able to/ didn't want to drill a little bit to the left because that is where my lightbox starts. This meant I had to do this crazy tight bend that I barley got the primochill fittings onto.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps2c66760d.jpg.html


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I LOVE XSPC GPU blocks. How I wish they made one for my cards!


Lol do what I did and base your build off aesthetics, buy the card based on what you are going to build...

I liked the xspc blocks so much I had to get a 7970 reference card just to do my build, took 3 card returns before I got a $500 xfx radeon 7970 oc edition reference card to fit the block...

But once I had it I was as happy as rain











Pic doesn't do it justice


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Saw these on my deals app...thought of you. Not sure if it's a good deal or if you even need more, but figured I'd let you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=AA85430&px=DN#.UxFEBfldVSM


Decent price. Newegg already had two sales w/ 40% off, which brings the price ~$12 each. I picked up 15 more 140s this time and I'm good so far for my next build. Maybe newegg will do it again this march.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's a 180mm rad correct? How does it handle the heat coming from your CPU and GPU?


it's a 200mm, highest gpu temp so far is 46c and cpu temps are in the low 60's.

Before my temps would hit over 80c on the gpu even with the fan at 100%, i think the radiator was blocking a lot of the airflow.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/3ogho3j
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New cpu block and 780 ti classy block in my TJ08-E.
> 
> 
> 
> That's a 180mm rad correct? How does it handle the heat coming from your CPU and GPU?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, i'm not courageous enough to paint fan blades either. That's why i learned a little bit about dyeing.
> 
> Bleaching would be the only way to make them white. It would also weaken the fan blades and could cause alot of potential problems (making painting less risky)
> 
> Blue should be easy enough depending on the fans. Just remember that it's ALWAYS easier to dye something to a darker shade. Dyeing to a lighter shade can be tricky to impossible. That's why some dye makers sell dye remover to lighten the color first. That probly wouldn't be good on fans though
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> 
> To the contrary, look HERE.
> 
> Helped me tremendously!
> 
> Thanks - T
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A ton of people paint fans. Linking a guide to painting fan blades doesn't contradict a single thing any1 said LOLLLLL
> 
> It's risky and has to be done PERFECTLY or else you'll throw off the balance of the fans. Basically, painting fans can take away everything that makes good rad fans-good rad fans. Like GT's for instance. Put a tiny bit of extra paint in one area and you might as well just buy some cheap colored fans instead
> 
> It can definitely be done. Just gotta do it perfectly
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you actually tried to paint fans yourself? While I somewhat agree with your statements...you speak as though you're afraid to even try it, and are trying to put that same fear into anyone else who has the idea to wanna try it. I've painted plenty of fans in my time, and I can guarantee you they were definitely not PERFECT, yet I have had no issues and they run just fine. No odd noises, no wobbling, no change in temps when I put them back on my rads. I just take my time with the painting, prepping is key, multiple light coats with around 10 mins in between...and it always works out fine for me.
Click to expand...

Thats the thing,you wont notice the wobbling,He is right that a badly painted fan will have a shorter MTBF. How short is an unknown tho. Even a slight oscillation will have telling but unseen effects.
I use an airbrush to paint fans,wipe the blades with a paint wipe,one light coat of a adhesion promoter then hit it with the airbrush. Thin the paint slightly more than usual with as fast flash thinner then go for it. Airbrushes have a higher atomization capability and are much more directable than rattles or spraygun.

One thing to bear in mind,not all fans come apart,this is where an airbrush comes in to its own,you can mask up quick and easy with anything..even paper and overspray is nigh on nil.
If you are a modder then a airbrush is vital if paint is your thing.


----------



## SeeThruHead

I've used the vinyl dye method om some swiftech helix fans. Dunno of it was because of uneven spraying but they wobble like mad at low rpms. And sometimes they make really annoying clicking sounds. Would definitely recommend using the dye method.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats the thing,you wont notice the wobbling,He is right that a badly painted fan will have a shorter MTBF. How short is an unknown tho. Even a slight oscillation will have telling but unseen effects.
> I use an airbrush to paint fans,wipe the blades with a paint wipe,one light coat of a adhesion promoter then hit it with the airbrush. Thin the paint slightly more than usual with as fast flash thinner then go for it. Airbrushes have a higher atomization capability and are much more directable than rattles or spraygun.
> 
> One thing to bear in mind,not all fans come apart,this is where an airbrush comes in to its own,you can mask up quick and easy with anything..even paper and overspray is nigh on nil.
> If you are a modder then a airbrush is vital if paint is your thing.


Yeah, it's just like i feel we're the type of people that buy fans based on them being quieter on a scale that we need to see martin hook them up to machines to tell the difference. So when i read that people paint their GT's and "can't tell the difference" it doesn't make me confident enough to do it myself. I can barely tell the difference between GT's and Noctua's in person to be quite honest. But the fact is GT's are much quieter and that's why i buy them. If somebody painted their fans and convinced martin to do another fan roundup with those painted fans, that might convince me to try it myself.

It can take a whole rig full of fans hooked up to rads to really separate the good fans from great fans.....or a microphone









An HVLP/Airbrush setup has been on my list of things to get for a while now. Haven't gotten around to it yet though. Too many components to buy lol

I was planning on painting my whole rig, but i'm getting so much acrylic and vinyl for it that i don't even know if i'm gonna need it on this build. I have Plasti-Dip for a few odds and ends.....


----------



## wermad

560s Came in today looking monsterly huge!


----------



## TrevJonez

wow and i thought my 480 rads where monsters!

It must take a behemoth of a case to hold on to two of those rads.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> wow and i thought my 480 rads where monsters!
> 
> It must take a behemoth of a case to hold on to two of those rads.


CaseLabs is working a new STH10 for me











http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-sth10/

The 560s will go on top, two 280s at the bottom w/ two psu, and a 420 in front w/ a bunch of cougar fans


----------



## SinatraFan

Wermad...

I'll be watching. That is awesome. Congrats


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> CaseLabs is working a new STH10 for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-sth10/
> 
> The 560s will go on top, two 280s at the bottom w/ two psu, and a 420 in front w/ a bunch of cougar fans


Can I raid your junk pile?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Can I raid your junk pile?


You grab the rads I'll grab the fans


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CaseLabs is working a new STH10 for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-sth10/
> 
> The 560s will go on top, two 280s at the bottom w/ two psu, and a 420 in front w/ a bunch of cougar fans


Well, you just answered my question as to if I can fit a 560 into my incoming STH-10! Thanks +1

I was planning to grab a TX10 this year, but I couldn't pass up on this deal from Strong Island.


----------



## stickg1

lol I need to swap for a MCP35X so I can dial this pump down. The coolant in the res is downright turbulent!

Video would have been better but I'm lazy.


----------



## Jakewat

What is that bottle with the straw that comes out the top and goes 180 degrees called? I really need one for filling but I can't find one no mater what I search.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> lol I need to swap for a MCP35X so I can dial this pump down. The coolant in the res is downright
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> turbulent!
> 
> Video would have been better but I'm lazy.


I can only imagine. I use to run my MCP35x2 through two GPU's, CPU, two small rads, & it was like a Tornado in my case. I had to run it @ minimum speed (23%) to keep it from pumping my loop full of air. Sadly, it would still happen after every boot due to boot up system check ramp up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> What is that bottle with the straw that comes out the top and goes 180 degrees called? I really need one for filling but I can't find one no mater what I search.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30729

it's made by phobya, so it might explode.

They are called "filling bottles" most of the time.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> lol I need to swap for a MCP35X so I can dial this pump down. The coolant in the res is downright turbulent!
> 
> Video would have been better but I'm lazy.


you dont have a fan controller? or you can always get Aqua Computer Poweradjust 2 USB which i plan to get 2 of.


----------



## skupples

can always track it to the cpu_header, but it's going to rev up @ 100% during boot, most of the time, depending on the board.


----------



## stickg1

It's a MCP355, it's designed to run at one speed, as far as I know.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you dont have a fan controller? or you can always get Aqua Computer Poweradjust 2 USB which i plan to get 2 of.


I like that res and fluid colour, what are they?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I like that res and fluid colour, what are they?


Mayhem's something or other sunset orange or something.. Looks like EK tube res/pump combo for DDC.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Mayhem's something or other sunset orange or something.. Looks like EK tube res/pump combo for DDC.


Nice colour, anyone know if it gunks too quickly?


----------



## pc-illiterate

a ddc will run down to 8volt. i have both of mine set at 7-9v on a fan controller. the problem with that is i have to remember to crank it to 100% when i cold boot which i dont do often. the pa2 will solve that though.

Nominal Voltage 12 V DC
Operating Voltage 8 to 13.2 V DC
Minimum Start-up Voltage 9 V DC
Nominal Power (@ 12 V) 14 to 19W


----------



## stickg1

My color? It's actually just yellow pastel with a few drops of purple to make it green. I was just messing around with colors in my cabinet.

Good info on the DDC. I think I'd rather just get the MCP35X instead of a fan controller though.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My color? It's actually just yellow pastel with a few drops of purple to make it green. I was just messing around with colors in my cabinet.
> 
> Good info on the DDC. I think I'd rather just get the MCP35X instead of a fan controller though.


So its dye, damn, I don't want to mess with dye.

That does NOT look green btw.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Nice colour, anyone know if it gunks too quickly?


It's a mayhems coolant, it won't gunks!
Gunk doesn't happen from coolant or dyes, it happens from crap leaching out of the tubing the coolant/dye is running through, all the coolant or dye does, is color the gunk, so everyone assumes it the coolant and says "it was the coolant, see that gunk is xxxx color just like the coolant, so it has to be a coolant problem"! ITS NOT.


----------



## stickg1

Looks green to me, but either way it's not a stock color.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's a mayhems coolant, it won't gunks!
> Gunk doesn't happen from coolant or dyes, it happens from crap leaching out of the tubing the coolant/dye is running through, all the coolant or dye does, is color the gunk, so everyone assumes it the coolant and says "it was the coolant, see that gunk is xxxx color just like the coolant, so it has to be a coolant problem"! ITS NOT.


Any idea how often I should swap out fluid? 6 months?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Looks green to me, but either way it's not a stock color.


Great, now I have to chose from Green, Blue, and this colour (I tell you man, its freaking yellow)


----------



## BWAS1000

Its 18 dollars for coolant, I think for my first loop I'll mix some Swiftech Hydrx. Is the Hydrix premix better or should I mix it. I think mixing it myself would get a lot more than 16 oz (500ml) worth.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's a mayhems coolant, it won't gunks!
> Gunk doesn't happen from coolant or dyes, it happens from crap leaching out of the tubing the coolant/dye is running through, all the coolant or dye does, is color the gunk, so everyone assumes it the coolant and says "it was the coolant, see that gunk is xxxx color just like the coolant, so it has to be a coolant problem"! ITS NOT.


This is exactly why I like hardlines. Than and how cool hardlines look. No plasticizer in hardlines.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Any idea how often I should swap out fluid? 6 months?
> Great, now I have to chose from Green, Blue, and this colour (I tell you man, its freaking yellow)


If you use the Mayhems pastel series, I've gone two years with mine so far, the folks at mayhems say you can go up to three years. Mayhems X-1, I change out every year.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> This is exactly why I like hardlines. Than and how cool hardlines look. No plasticizer in hardlines.


Plasticizer? Heard about it but not entirely sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If you use the Mayhems pastel series, I've gone two years with mine so far, the folks at mayhems say you can go up to three years. Mayhems X-1, I change out every year.


Anyone know about Hydrx? I'd probably run that then try Mayhems


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Its 18 dollars for coolant, I think for my first loop I'll mix some Swiftech Hydrx. Is the Hydrix premix better or should I mix it. I think mixing it myself would get a lot more than 16 oz (500ml) worth.


If you take into account the length of time the Mayhems pastel lasts, it's actually cheaper in the long run than almost any other coolant you could use except for straight distilled. And Mayhems make the best coolants you can get IMHO.


----------



## Neo Zuko

There is a huge thread on plasticizer on OCN. It fogs up your water loops even with just plain water. It's something they add to flexible lines to make them flexible.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Anyone know about Hydrx? I'd probably run that then try Mayhems


Never used it, never will. Besides being a product from a company I am at arms with, I see zero benefit to using it over a better product.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Never used it, never will. Besides being a product from a company I am at arms with, I see zero benefit to using it over a better product.


Well you don't have my budget, good point though. Why would you be at arms with Swiftech though?


----------



## Joyride

Put Mayhems pastel black and put in a Monsoon dual bay reservoir.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Well you don't have my budget, good point though. Why would you be at arms with Swiftech though?


I've had a lot of issues with the company, I'm not going to recount them here again, I've mentioned them in the past in this exact thread, needless to say, I won't use any swiftech products ever again.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Looks green to me, but either way it's not a stock color.


Dat's yellow... you colorblind my friend?


----------



## szeged

its like overcooked corn yellow to me


----------



## Neo Zuko

That's Pops cereal.


----------



## 15goudreau

I think I'll go with the blue dye. I think it'll contrast nicely with the white radiators and black fan frames with blue fins... me like. Btw guys I added another gpu water block + bridge... looks smexy but I'm holding off on uploading pictures until my MDPC sleeve comes in...hopefully wednesday finger crossed!


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've had a lot of issues with the company, I'm not going to recount them here again, I've mentioned them in the past in this exact thread, needless to say, I won't use any swiftech products ever again.


hydrx is actually the only thing I'm interested in from Swiftech, nothing else is as enticing.


----------



## stickg1

My colors are a little off. To my eyes it's nVidia green.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My colors are a little off. To my eyes it's nVidia green.


Thank you camera colour fail.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My colors are a little off. To my eyes it's nVidia green.


It is hard to photograph pastels.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Swiftech's H220 was amazing and I'm definitely buying a H220X until I can hardline watercool. For the money some of the best expandable AIO water cooling units ever made. Which I get it, it's not full on watercooling, but for those who can't buy Rome in a day it's very useful. They make and import nice pumps too. I even like a few other products like the Maelstrom reservoirs and I like the fittings but they are not hardline fittings sadly.

They also have a nifty CPU waterblock mount system that is consistent and slick. Not sure I like the industrial look of their CPU blocks enough to buy it separately but they work very well.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Swiftech's H220 was amazing and I'm *definitely* buying a H220X until I can hardline watercool. For the money some of the best expandable AIO water cooling units ever made. Which I get it, it's not full on watercooling, but for those who can't buy Rome in a day it's very useful. They make and import nice pumps too. I even like a few other products like the Maelstrom reservoirs and I like the fittings but they are not hardline fittings sadly.
> 
> They also have a nifty CPU waterblock mount system that is consistent and slick. Not sure I like the industrial look of their CPU blocks enough to buy it separately but they work very well.


Sorry, just had to fix that.

Its a nice idea swiftech has there,not something I plan to buy though, considering the X20 750/EX240 kit isn't much more.


----------



## stickg1

Either way, it's something I already had. I just used it to get my GPU cooled while I get the rest of the parts ordered.

Final build will have a different color.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Thank you camera colour fail.


clearly.... oh well I bet it looks sick to you...which is all that matters of course!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Well iPhone auto correction FTW ?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> clearly.... oh well I bet it looks sick to you...which is all that matters of course!


I'm not crazy about it. But instead of throwing it away it's still a good coolant to use temporarily while I keep working on sleeving and acquiring the rest of the loop.

I'll probably just go with white in the end.


----------



## John Freeman

whats the best performing CPU waterblock now a days?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Swiftech's H220 was amazing and I'm definitely buying a H220X until I can hardline watercool. For the money some of the best expandable AIO water cooling units ever made. Which I get it, it's not full on watercooling, but for those who can't buy Rome in a day it's very useful. They make and import nice pumps too. I even like a few other products like the Maelstrom reservoirs and I like the fittings but they are not hardline fittings sadly.
> 
> They also have a nifty CPU waterblock mount system that is consistent and slick. Not sure I like the industrial look of their CPU blocks enough to buy it separately but they work very well.


I am glad you like their products, and I hope you have better luck with them than I did.

Fortunately for me, or unfortunately for swiftech, there are other companies in this market that make better products, and don't have issues standing behind the products they do make.

I wish them the best of luck, but I will not give them anymore of my money, nor recommend their products.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I am glad you like their products, and I hope you have better luck with them than I did.
> 
> Fortunately for me, or unfortunately for swiftech, there are other companies in this market that make better products, and don't have issues standing behind the products they do make.
> 
> I wish them the best of luck, but I will not give them anymore of my money, nor recommend their products.


Looking at stuff for my first loop, nothing swiftech has proven worth it to me except the Hydrx. for rads, at least on FrozenCpu, the Alphacool ST30 (or UT30, I don't remember) proved to be more worth it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Looking at stuff for my first loop, nothing swiftech has proven worth it to me except the Hydrx. for rads, at least on FrozenCpu, the Alphacool ST30 (or UT30, I don't remember) proved to be more worth it.


Just looked up the Hydrx stuff, it is $6-$7 per 16oz bottle of premix, plus shipping. I've built a lot of systems with liquid cooling, and they have all taken at least 32oz, so, that's $12-$14 for the coolant, shipping on that from FCPU shows as $9.96 to my zip code.
So $22-$24 total for two bottles.

The Mayhems Pastels are $21.99 per bottle of the concentrate, it will make 1 liter of coolant, or about 65-66oz, and shipping is the same at $9.96. So, 22-24$ for 32oz the hydrx, or 32$ for 65oz+ of pastel, and $1 for a gallon of distilled to mix it with, and the pastel will work for 2-3 years, versus 1 year on the hydrx. So if you use the system for two years, the pricing will be $44-$48 for hydrx, and still only $33 for pastel.

What is your driving force to wanting to use the Hydrx? I'm just curious, you are the first person I've seen on the forum actually bring up the Hydrx product, what did you read or see that is making you want to use it?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just looked up the Hydrx stuff, it is $6-$7 per 16oz bottle of premix, plus shipping. I've built a lot of systems with liquid cooling, and they have all taken at least 32oz, so, that's $12-$14 for the coolant, shipping on that from FCPU shows as $9.96 to my zip code.
> So $22-$24 total for two bottles.
> 
> The Mayhems Pastels are $21.99 per bottle of the concentrate, it will make 1 liter of coolant, or about 65-66oz, and shipping is the same at $9.96. So, 22-24$ for 32oz the hydrx, or 32$ for 65oz+ of pastel, and $1 for a gallon of distilled to mix it with, and the pastel will work for 2-3 years, versus 1 year on the hydrx. So if you use the system for two years, the pricing will be $44-$48 for hydrx, and still only $33 for pastel.
> 
> What is your driving force to wanting to use the Hydrx? I'm just curious, you are the first person I've seen on the forum actually bring up the Hydrx product, what did you read or see that is making you want to use it?


I dunno, I truly don't, only redeeming quality is the low price, also, its not Hydrx Premix I plan to use, its the concentrate, which mixes with 500ml, and I'd guess the bottle is either another 250 or 500. Just wanted to try a coolant, and get a basic idea of how it would play out.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

So i had 3 , 45 degree adapter start leaking. Is this normal? They where TCF brand. Compare to my 90 degree they where a lot looser when it come to rotation.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I dunno, I truly don't, only redeeming quality is the low price, also, its not Hydrx Premix I plan to use, its the concentrate, which mixes with 500ml, and I'd guess the bottle is either another 250 or 500. Just wanted to try a coolant, and get a basic idea of how it would play out.


I just looked the concentrate up on PPCS, FCPU doesn't carry it, that's why I didn't see it. The concentrate was added to the PPCS catalog on August 1st, *2004*, and from the photo, it looks like a 3-4oz bottle. I'm guessing it's a glycol-based additive. I didn't realize it was an almost 10 year old product. There have been a lot of changes in WC in the last ten years. I'm curious how it turns out for you, keep us posted.


----------



## stickg1

The Mayhems X1 is a concentrate that makes 2 liters of coolant. It's clear or a variety of colors. Reasonably priced as well.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I just looked the concentrate up on PPCS, FCPU doesn't carry it, that's why I didn't see it. The concentrate was added to the PPCS catalog on August 1st, *2004*, and from the photo, it looks like a 3-4oz bottle. I'm guessing it's a glycol-based additive. I didn't realize it was an almost 10 year old product. There have been a lot of changes in WC in the last ten years. I'm curious how it turns out for you, keep us posted.


Eh, I guess I will, can you recommend another low cost coolant? Yeah, I'm that broke.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The Mayhems X1 is a concentrate that makes 2 liters of coolant. It's clear or a variety of colors. Reasonably priced as well.


And now I'm kinda sold. Yeah screw it, i'm getting both. 4 bucks isn't much more for Hydrx.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I am glad you like their products, and I hope you have better luck with them than I did.
> 
> Fortunately for me, or unfortunately for swiftech, there are other companies in this market that make better products, and don't have issues standing behind the products they do make.
> 
> I wish them the best of luck, but I will not give them anymore of my money, nor recommend their products.


I get it, sometimes you get burned too bad to go back **Tmobile you suck lol**


----------



## Jakewat

Bleeding in progress, have got lots of bubbles to get rid of, just wish I had other air holes to make it quicker. Love the colour of the pastel though!
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps126d64d5.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsc138e792.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsdf1d798e.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Looks great, I am glad I went with both inlet and outlet on my res at the bottom. It made bleeding/filling a lot easier!


----------



## Jakewat

Is there any other good techniques other than turning pump on/ off, tilting and cycling pump speeds? or am I in for a long day


----------



## vieuxchnock

Nice setup: thumb:


----------



## keepitsimple

My water cooling loop








I never build one before and did an extensive amount of research before I started. I also went through a lot of trail and error lol since I am new to this forum I have been a bit conservative in posting pictures ... I do need to find one thing though...

A fitting name...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keepitsimple*
> 
> My water cooling loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never build one before and did an extensive amount of research before I started. I also went through a lot of trail and error lol since I am new to this forum I have been a bit conservative in posting pictures ... I do need to find one thing though...
> 
> *A fitting name...*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The first thing I thought when I opened the photos full size was "The Snake Pit"


----------



## keepitsimple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The first thing I thought when I opened the photos full size was "The Snake Pit"


It's not that many tubes


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keepitsimple*
> 
> It's not that many tubes


I didn't say it was bad.
I wasn't trying to be mean, I was being serious. That wasn't meant as a slam by any means. Full sincerity, it was the very first thing that crossed my mind.









The rig looks good, you said you were looking for a name, and since that was my first thought, I chimed in to let you know.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> One thing to bear in mind,not all fans come apart,this is where an airbrush comes in to its own,you can mask up quick and easy with anything..even paper and overspray is nigh on nil.
> If you are a modder then a airbrush is vital if paint is your thing.


le sigh....I wish I had an airbrush in my garage. Things have slowed down for me over the past year, it wouldn't get much use...so it's not a high priority to acquire one right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> So i had 3 , 45 degree adapter start leaking. Is this normal? They where TCF brand. Compare to my 90 degree they where a lot looser when it come to rotation.


Any kind of leaking is not normal. TCF brand? Never heard of that, might be the reason they leak if they're some kind of low budget alternative to the better known more reliable fittings available.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Will agree snake pit is a nice name for a rig name/build log....


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> le sigh....I wish I had an airbrush in my garage. Things have slowed down for me over the past year, it wouldn't get much use...so it's not a high priority to acquire one right now.
> Any kind of leaking is not normal. TCF brand? Never heard of that, might be the reason they leak if they're some kind of low budget alternative to the better known more reliable fittings available.


TFC my bad.

Also what to know. How save is acrylic tube if you move it with had and transportation ?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 560s Came in today looking monsterly huge!


I love my 560 Werm but I can only fit one into my case. Of course one 560 is typically enough!


----------



## keepitsimple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I didn't say it was bad.
> I wasn't trying to be mean, I was being serious. That wasn't meant as a slam by any means. Full sincerity, it was the very first thing that crossed my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rig looks good, you said you were looking for a name, and since that was my first thought, I chimed in to let you know.


All good ... I am starting to warm up to that name









SnakePit


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keepitsimple*
> 
> All good ... I am starting to warm up to that name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SnakePit


now you need to get some lame USB sound card and plug a pair of lame speakers into it, you know, for that hiss.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love my 560 Werm but I can only fit one into my case. Of course one 560 is typically enough!


CL, wc box tbh


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah Caselabs makes amazing cases but I still love my TJ11 to death! Enough room in the bottom for a 560 and my favorite case feature ever: The 90 degree rotated mobo tray that allows for heavy GPU blocks without any worries about sagging cards! Not to mention the fact that she's just a beauty overall! Your custom STH10 will definitely be a better case in terms of customization and build quality but I wouldn't trade my Silverstone for anything. Just the perfect case for me (but if I ever do decide to go a different rout I'm getting either an STH10 or a LD V8)...


----------



## royce5950

I'd like the loop for the gfx card to go ( pump - res - rad - gfx card ) but the pump will go into the top of the tube reservoir and out the bottom. The largerbtube reservoir that is. The cpu is on its own loop.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

That is sexy!


----------



## wermad

Cougars installed after tapping 560s to M4. Only one screw was a bit of a chore but needed a more robust M4 screw to finally thread in properly. Most likely my tap is at the end of its taping days. Did all of them w/ the same tap (and some WD40) which was just $4 on ebay.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Beautiful build Royce!









Werm, that is about the biggest radiator overkill I've ever seen! Love it!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Werm, that is about the biggest radiator overkill I've ever seen! Love it!










Decided to give another pic build a chance. Also, this temporary case could handle the weight of my components w/ blocks. Better safe then sorry (and break something expensive).


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cougars installed after tapping 560s to M4. Only one screw was a bit of a chore but needed a more robust M4 screw to finally thread in properly. Most likely my tap is at the end of its taping days. Did all of them w/ the same tap (and some WD40) which was just $4 on ebay.


Ok Mad, just curious, why retap the screw holes? Sure m4's are heavier duty, but in this situation, it's not any benefit unless it's just an aesthetic issue, then ok. Hmmmm?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Ok Mad, just curious, why retap the screw holes? Sure m4's are heavier duty, but in this situation, it's not any benefit unless it's just an aesthetic issue, then ok. Hmmmm?


M3 are way too puny for my liking. Too much wiggle room and I don't feel safe w/ those holding large and heavy rads. Plus i have about 200 black M4 30mm hex screws. The bottom rads will be custom mounted so the less room for error, the easier my job. I strongly think M4 should be the standard screw size.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Probably aesthetic. I nerded out big time with my build making sure that all my screws were color-matched, had my preferred head design, and were metric.


----------



## wermad

I prefer hex head as its less likely to strip the head. I have a Husky ratchet driver which helps a lot (especially w/ a sprained hand).








hmmmmm...never really thought all this was all for aesthetics tbh


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> M3 are way too puny for my liking. Too much wiggle room and I don't feel safe w/ those holding large and heavy rads. Plus i have about 200 black M4 30mm hex screws. The bottom rads will be custom mounted so the less room for error, the easier my job. I strongly think M4 should be the standard screw size.


Ok. Was just wondering.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Haha, every single decision I made with my build was made with aesthetics in mind.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Ok. Was just wondering.


Honestly, its no contest, bigger is better here imho











Its a pita and dangerous to re-tap but I just prefer to use this size. I could have done 6-32 but I have a bunch of M4 screws already. If one don't want to risk it, just stick to the stock screws. I love that Alpha cool has a blocking plate otherwise, use a small metal plate to ensure you don't run the bit and the tap through the channels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Haha, every single decision I made with my build was made with aesthetics in mind.


I do put some effort into functionality w/ formality. But overall I just don't have the patience to go super attention to detail like some of you guys (and it shows as beautiful builds).


----------



## lowfat

ZOMG. It is i working. Last time I had the rig powered on was on Dec 19 IIRC. Feels good man.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-12.jpg.html


----------



## Angrychair

that would drive me insane, Lowfat. Great looking work as always.


----------



## kingchris

ok guys, been having a little play with the Alphacool DC-LT pumps, against a D5, well im very happy,

pics of the set up, i know how to kill of your loop
think this should be enough rad, and yes that is my 840mm rad







and the 420 Monsta



so first pic D5 on number 5 3600rpm, cant remember how to work out the lpm











the DC-LT set up im using



the first pic is with the first pump running 1600prm, not bad for a small pump.
the second pic is with both pumps running full speed, 2750rpm, very good effort indeed.

 

noise wise, well its alittle bit more noticable then the D5, but a lot of it comes through the res. the pump on its side, does have a dislike of running by its self, i would advise againt using it in on its side, due to its suction performance been a little low (however this could have been due to my set up)
i will have a better idea on its overall perforance once its all sat in my build.

well i hope that gives you an idea on these pumps,overall, if you can get a D5 in, use it.
If you want to have something that looks the part and can keep the flow going the the DC-LT is a good option, i would recommend using 2 (TWO) in your loop, it gives you that little bit more, but they are that small you could hide them anywhere.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like the loop for the gfx card to go ( pump - res - rad - gfx card ) but the pump will go into the top of the tube reservoir and out the bottom. The largerbtube reservoir that is. The cpu is on its own loop.


Good job on the acrylic bending.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's a mayhems coolant, it won't gunks!
> Gunk doesn't happen from coolant or dyes, it happens from crap leaching out of the tubing the coolant/dye is running through, all the coolant or dye does, is color the gunk, so everyone assumes it the coolant and says "it was the coolant, see that gunk is xxxx color just like the coolant, so it has to be a coolant problem"! ITS NOT.


+1
Or with people who use "food coloring" as food coloring will solidify at higher temps. (what we would consider "normal" temps for coolant here)


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cougars installed after tapping 560s to M4. Only one screw was a bit of a chore but needed a more robust M4 screw to finally thread in properly. Most likely my tap is at the end of its taping days. Did all of them w/ the same tap (and some WD40) which was just $4 on ebay.


I did the same on my rads...

Kind of a choir, but worth it in the long run as my filters are actually "Wedged" between my case' side panels and the rad fans... thus will have to remove and install the rads frequently. (Design flaw of the case itself)
But I purchased the entire Metric kit as we make our own reservoirs (among other things) here @ the shop.


----------



## royce5950

When I wrote my last post it seemed more like a statement than a question but my question was will it be ok to run my loop in the order pump - reservoir - radiator - gfx card pump - reservoir...

Thats how low the tube goes in the reservoir for anyone who may need a better idea. It does a lot lower than a lot of other tube reservoirs I've noticed, so I'm hoping somebody has an answer for this question
because I am pretty sure this will be fine but ive never seen the same question asked and I wanted to make sure for security reasons. I appreciate it in advance.

Thanks for the props too yall ill be working on a vengeance c70 soon but I may put the case aside or sell it and get a 750d in the works







time will tell


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keepitsimple*
> 
> My water cooling loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never build one before and did an extensive amount of research before I started. I also went through a lot of trail and error lol since I am new to this forum I have been a bit conservative in posting pictures ... I do need to find one thing though...
> 
> A fitting name...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


_Wet K.I.S.S._

A build name suggestion. An allusion to it being watercooled + a play on your OCN username.


----------



## PC Upgrade

Have a look of ny new project "Rig Unknown"

Parts

Case: Coolermaster SE black Cosmos
PSU: Coolermaster rs 850
Mobo: Asus ramapage 3 gene
CPU: Intel i7 950 [email protected]
VGA: Asus GTX 670 sli
Ram: 12gb kit kingston hyper x @1600Mhz
SSD: Intel 520 120gb
HDD: Seagte 2tb

Watercooling parts:
EK - ALPHACOOL - CORSAIR - Primochill


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> When I wrote my last post it seemed more like a statement than a question but my question was will it be ok to run my loop in the order *pump - reservoir - radiator - gfx card pump - reservoir...*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats how low the tube goes in the reservoir for anyone who may need a better idea. It does a lot lower than a lot of other tube reservoirs I've noticed, so I'm hoping somebody has an answer for this question
> because I am pretty sure this will be fine but ive never seen the same question asked and I wanted to make sure for security reasons. I appreciate it in advance.
> 
> Thanks for the props too yall ill be working on a vengeance c70 soon but I may put the case aside or sell it and get a 750d in the works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> time will tell


I'd suggest you use the reservoir to feed the pump by gravity. You wouldn't want to let your pump run dry at any point in time.

As long as you follow Reservoir --> Pump, then the rest doesn't really matter.

Hope that helps.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> ZOMG. It is i working. Last time I had the rig powered on was on Dec 19 IIRC. Feels good man.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-12.jpg.html


Nice Coolgate! I have the 240mm and thinking about getting a matching 360mm for up top. Good rads!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> I did the same on my rads...
> 
> Kind of a choir, but worth it in the long run as my filters are actually "Wedged" between my case' side panels and the rad fans... thus will have to remove and install the rads frequently. (Design flaw of the case itself)
> But I purchased the entire Metric kit as we make our own reservoirs (among other things) here @ the shop.


I also bought a cheap kit from HarborTools for ~$15. After watching some youtube vids, I just went at it w/ my drill (low speed, ~#2-4 torque setting) and it has worked perfectly. You just have to manage it extremely careful and use some sort of stopping plate. I've done a few rads already and so I just bought another M4 tap on ebay for a bit.

I've done:

EK XT240, 2x XT480s, TFC 480, UT60s 2x 560s, 420, & 2x 280s. So i have a bit of confidence in doing this again. There's still the danger of damaging it so I take my time. I took about 30 minutes per side of the 560s: drilling out the M3 holes with a 1/8" bit, cleaning the debris, taping each hole carefully making sure I have light (flashlight w/ a piece of cardboard to avoid fin damage), and most importantly setting down the drill on its side. Not too comfortable having the drill upright while not in use, getting knocked over and running into the rad







.


----------



## SinatraFan

Well, I'm close to being done with my HAF-X Cube build (#1) and just finished my loops so I'm hoping I can officially join the club!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Beautiful build Royce!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Werm, that is about the biggest radiator overkill I've ever seen! Love it!


I'm planning on the same amount but in SR-1s but in 120mm fan size (360, 480, 480, 480). I still think it's overkill but why not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Probably aesthetic. I nerded out big time with my build making sure that all my screws were color-matched, had my preferred head design, and were metric.


I'm having trouble finding nice screws for my planned SR-1s.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Well, I'm close to being done with my HAF-X Cube build (#1) and just finished my loops so I'm hoping I can officially join the club!


That's quite an impressive loop. You've done amazing job with your acrylic bending.


----------



## skupples

So... I'm prepping for this white STH-10 rebuild... I'm trying to do the transplant while spending as little money as possible... I'll be cooling 5 radiators, 3 GPU's, cpu, motherboard... Should I split the mobo/cpu off into it's own little loop?

Also, iv'e seen a few people cooling their GPU's in a hybrid fashion... bottom card in parallel, middle card in serial, top card in parallel... Anyone know any benefits of doing this?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Well, I'm close to being done with my HAF-X Cube build (#1) and just finished my loops so I'm hoping I can officially join the club!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have to say, two Haf Xs smacked together are awesome. My poor Haf X been sitting empty in the living room since it been raining outside the past few days, so unable to do the last few bit of painting and cutting.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Well, I'm close to being done with my HAF-X Cube build (#1) and just finished my loops so I'm hoping I can officially join the club!


You certainly did it your way!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So... I'm prepping for this white STH-10 rebuild... I'm trying to do the transplant while spending as little money as possible... I'll be cooling 5 radiators, 3 GPU's, cpu, motherboard... Should I split the mobo/cpu off into it's own little loop?
> 
> Also, iv'e seen a few people cooling their GPU's in a hybrid fashion... bottom card in parallel, middle card in serial, top card in parallel... *Anyone know any benefits of doing this?*


It reduces the split so flow rate isnt drastically reduced thru the blocks. For 2 cards in parallel,the flow is halved,for 4 cards its quartered so by splitting the 4 in to 2 you retain the halved flow thru 4 cards.


----------



## skupples

Thx B, pretty much what I figured.


----------



## hamed599

Sorry for my question.But I really need to know I may want to buy Aquaero 6 XT fan controller .does that work with all sensors?For example :
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16902/ex-tub-1370/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Flow_Sensor_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-FS-CLBKBK.html?tl=g30c229
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23235/koo-395/Koolance_Coolant_Inline_Flow_Meter_w_Temperature_Sensor_10K_Ohm_-_Black_SEN-FM18T10.html?tl=g30c229
and of this statement: 
Again, sorry for my question
thank you


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for my question.But I really need to know I may want to buy Aquaero 6 XT fan controller .does that work with all sensors?For example :
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16902/ex-tub-1370/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Flow_Sensor_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-FS-CLBKBK.html?tl=g30c229
> or
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23235/koo-395/Koolance_Coolant_Inline_Flow_Meter_w_Temperature_Sensor_10K_Ohm_-_Black_SEN-FM18T10.html?tl=g30c229
> and of this statement:
> Again, sorry f
> 
> 
> or my question
> thank you


I would recommend using the aquacomputer sensors, made for the unit. They cost a bit more, but are guaranteed to work! the spinner may work, but would require calibration, and i'm not sure how you would go about doing that. The koolance unit has it's own little thing that it hooks up to, so is probably unlikely that it would work with AQ very well. The AQ models are only slightly more expensive than those.


----------



## neSSa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Well, I'm close to being done with my HAF-X Cube build (#1) and just finished my loops so I'm hoping I can officially join the club!


This looks just like my old project









http://www.overclock.net/t/1285016/cubex-project-work-log


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I am glad I am not the only noob interested in learning how to do that. B-neg, fast_fate: I would really appreciate knowing exactly what to do. Since my build is complete I may end up having to use that ugly Aquaero power connect cable but I am willing to chop up my 24 pin ATX cable if that works.


Hmm - that ugly cable is really ugly though.
Good news is that you don't need it - just the actual 2 pin or 3 pin (depending on your model) relay connector to plug into the Aquaero








The standby wire is a good option for testing and commissioning (but not essential - splice 2 wires off your 24 pin loom if you want to, as I did) - BUT once you have your USB cable connected the Aquaero gets it's standby power for display and function control from the USB, I kept the standby plug in anyways without issue








The relay wire that I spliced into wiring loom is also just for testing and commissioning - once up and running I put a switch inline in the on position so it's like a super long power supply on cable on the 24 pin to motherboard.
In the pic you can see the switch with the on/off markers behind the AQ, the other switch is for pump on/off.

Got myself re-familiarized with Aquaero today - half made test bed will get finished one day








Just the motherboard section done to date - made it so the tray can slide in & out.



Spoiler: VERY simple set up consisting of...



XSPC BayRes with MCP355 pump - pump on molex connector with inline switch (to test pump fail functions of Aquaero later), pump tacho to mobo cpu header.
outlet of pump through a new Bitspower flow meter I wanted to try with mobo connection, but rpm too low under (200) and wouldn't boot without setting to ignore the header in the BIOS - so I put it onto fan 1 header on AQ and enabled special fan setting on fan 1 header to be flow meter input.
After that goes to the single 120mm rad which has an AquaComputer flow meter on inlet with wire going to flow on the AQ.
Single 120 mm fan going to AQ fan 2 header
single 120mm rad and one fan - fan connected to fan port 2 on Aquaero.
out of rad into VRM block
into cpu block
return to res.






Spoiler: tried for double protection against failed pump



I wanted to test multiple pump fail options which is why I first hooked the Bitspower flow meter the the mobo, and then the pump tacho.
Seems to me that another software has to be running for this to work - either speedfan or AISuite in the case of this Rampage IV Formula board.
I set BIOS to shut down if rpm went below 200 on the cpu header that I connected to.
Well the Bitspower didn't even spin up to 200 rpm so couldn't boot.
The pumps rpm is reading about 3700.
I flicked the switch on pumps power supply and watched and waited and waited and waited.
No system shutdown until I pulled the plug as temps approached danger levels.
This is why I think that AISuite must also have to be running to monitor the BIOS settings.
BUT if I'm running AquaSuite why run more software - same deal for speedfan
so no double back up for pump fail - based on no flow rate/rpm





Spoiler: Power on / off with the Aquaero remote



As BNeg posted you can use the remote to power on & off the system with a cable form the 2 pin PWR header (front panel) to the Aquaero relay header - and yes pins 1 and 3 are correct to use this function.
I was wrong about the pins in another post - worked for testing without damaging anything but never tried to boot up (which it didn't of course)
Should be pretty easy to navigate the Aquaero menus to get this working...let's have a go using the remote's keys....you can use the Aquaero fascia buttons also.
event log (top right button) and then OK
use arrow keys to navigate to infrared section and press OK
navigate down to the switch pc on/off via infrared and press OK
navigate to "action to switch on the pc" and press enter.
this is where I use the switch relay for 2 seconds option - to me seems like same as pressing the power on button (well just a bit longer) that bit longer seems to cause no harm ??

If you wanted to use the remote to switch off the PC for some reason, navigate to same area, I use the switch relay for 10 seconds option.
This to me seems like holding the power button down for an extended time to get a system shutdown - as sometimes with system lock ??.

BUT if someone can confirm my relay settings are OK would be great - I know they work, just not sure if my relay timings are correct.



How to set up Aquaero in Aquasuite to shut down in the event of pump failure.
You could do this with the pump's tacho signal with fan rpm speed dropping below X rpm also,
BUT what I wanted to test was if the flow meter's would work also and how to set it up to turn off the PC.
Being ass about I'll tell you first that it works and works very swiftly.
BUT it only protects against pump failure - OR power to pump issue causing it to not work.
If a leak crops up, it's going to do damage before your set "low" flow rate triggers alarm and or pc shut down.
and shut down only shuts the pc down, as much as different things I tried standby power to motherboard is still on.
so for pump failure this is how to configure Aquasuite with flow meter input to shut the system down with low or no flow from the sensor.

First I would suggest ensuring that AquaSuite always starts with windows
in AquaSuite on the left hand menu click AquaSuite, then settings, then in middle of page make sure that the "start aquasuite with windows" box is checked.


Now we need to set some alarm actions....
on the left6 menu click aquero (or whatever you might have named it previously)
2/3 rds way down click on alarm actions
For purpose of this exercise I have 4 alarm action made, Normal operation, Warning, Alarm and Shut Down (click the tick next to Alarm/Warning to rename to what you want)
Normal Operation actions - Speed Signal On & Buzzer OFF
Warning Actions - Speed Signal On & Buzzer Cycle on/off (use the plus sign on the right to add the second action)
Alarm Actions - Speed Signal On & Buzzer ON
Shut Down - Relay switch for 2 seconds


Now we have to set an alarm - in this case we want AquaSuite to do something if flow rate drops below xx liters per minute (or gallons if you so please)
Click Alarm Configuration on the left.
Open Flow Alarms by clicking anywhere on the blue line.
Choose you data source - flow meter - either Flow 1 OR Flow 2, I chose Flow 1 being the AquaComputer flow meter just before the rad.
Now choose the flow drops below limits option for what will trigger the alarm.
Warning limit - up to you but I chose a number equal to 75% of my usual flow rate on the flow meter - so 150 liters per minute for me.
Alarm Limit - I chose a number 20% of the normal flow rate so 20 is the number I entered here.
Now choose the flow drops below limits option for what will trigger the alarm.
Now to set the event that will happen
Warning Limit - option 3 that was set earlier with continuous buzzer seems the best fit so I chose what I had renamed to Warning Alarm
and what we wanted to do from the outset....
Alarm Limit is set to Shut Down - option 4 that was renamed earlier.


Now test out your handiwork by cutting power to your pump








Windows even gives a quick shut down message.
and when start up next time no "didn't shut down correctly screen" but straight o log in.

Hope this helps those who were interested.
Works a treat


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> This looks just like my old project


Actually, it was you and Craven that inspired me!


----------



## wermad

A couple more things came in







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> Sorry for my question.But I really need to know I may want to buy Aquaero 6 XT fan controller .does that work with all sensors?For example :
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16902/ex-tub-1370/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Flow_Sensor_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-FS-CLBKBK.html?tl=g30c229
> or
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23235/koo-395/Koolance_Coolant_Inline_Flow_Meter_w_Temperature_Sensor_10K_Ohm_-_Black_SEN-FM18T10.html?tl=g30c229
> and of this statement:
> Again, sorry for my question
> thank you


Pretty much all the 2 pin sensors work,they are all the same diode in different packages.

In other news,loom has been strapped and the clearcoat has been started...


----------



## GaMbi2004

Ok, Acrylics are done!

Take a look














I also painted my Corsair Light Bar kit. Turned out good!
No one sane person can call that Pink










More info / pics in my build log (also pics of my previous 5-6 mods in this build)
Check it out Here


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Ok, Acrylics are done!
> 
> Take a look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also painted my Corsair Light Bar kit. Turned out good!
> No one sane person can call that Pink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More info / pics in my build log (also pics of my previous 5-6 mods in this build)
> Check it out Here


Very nice. See ya you using the monsoon fittings. Dang, I may just sell off my Primochill ones, and go with those instead for my build.


----------



## BWAS1000

What kinda loop should I put together for an A10-7850K? I'm saving for that instead of bmaverick DDC, I think the new rig should come first.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Seeing all these acrylic builds are going to make me spend money i dn't have....


----------



## stickg1

I got some sleeves mayne




My build is a "working" work in progress.









I am partially color blind. So tell me, in that last picture, that coolant is slightly green isn't it? It looks like a pea soup green to me..


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I got some sleeves mayne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build is a "working" work in progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am partially color blind. So tell me, in that last picture, that coolant is slightly green isn't it? It looks like a pea soup green to me..


In the shadows its looks kinda green, otherwise it looks yellow.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I got some sleeves mayne
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build is a "working" work in progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am partially color blind. So tell me, in that last picture, that coolant is slightly green isn't it? It looks like a pea soup green to me..


Looks pretty yellow to me, but the difference between green and yellow is often debated.

It's weird how we all can look at the same things yet we all see them so differently. Just look at all the topics on whether Lemon-Lime Gatorade is green or yellow. There never will be a consensus (Lemon-Lime Gatorade is green btw).


----------



## Roxycon

Looks yellow with shadows on it, to me mate









Do you got a link for the plastic cable thingys?


----------



## VSG

It's yellow.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Looks yellow with shadows on it, to me mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you got a link for the plastic cable thingys?


Wow, thats the exact opposite of what I said


----------



## wermad

Clear tube gives it a blue greenish hue. If you look at the res, it's more pronounced.


----------



## stickg1

Well I have plenty of blue and purple dye. I can green it up if needed. I don't know what the final color on fans and coolant will be yet. My cables are kind of subdued from the bright coolant grabbing your attention, so I need to either brighten up with fans and highlights in the sleeving, or to go with more muted colors on everything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Looks yellow with shadows on it, to me mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you got a link for the plastic cable thingys?


The cable combs? Lutro0 has them on his website, I think FCPU sells them too in the Lutro0 sub-section.

The Teleios sleeving I used is Lutro0 too. Really quality stuff. Much easier to work with than the paracord I first started out with and looks nicer too.

http://lutro0-customs.com/collections/cable-managment

EDIT: and the color I'm shooting for is "Wermad Green"


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Clear tube gives it a blue greenish hue. If you look at the res, it's more pronounced.


My clear tubing parts of the loop makes the coolant a bit grayish, dosent look anything like the others ive seen using the pastel white, but that is probably becouse i dont have that bright light nor a lightning setup for my pictures


----------



## psycho84

A litte Update from my Rig...

Top Radiator is now a Alphacool Monsta 480 with 8 NB eloops









Here some Pics:


----------



## Roxycon

Awesome







now to decide on the normal ones or the stealth

Gosh, i will never be done tidying up my build


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Seeing all these acrylic builds are going to make me spend money i dn't have....


I'm trying VERY Hard to resist blowing all that money to replace all of my 1/2 x 3/4 fittings for my CaseLabs overhaul....

By the way... This thread trying to distinguish the color of that dye shows two things... A.) a large % of the male population suffers from colorblindness, of varying degrees. B.) The difference in monitor quality/color production.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now to decide on the normal ones or the stealth
> 
> Gosh, i will never be done tidying up my build


If it makes it any easier to decide ...

On the stealth one, each individually sleeved cable has to go through the corresponding hole before the connector is put on.

The others, like stickg1 has, can be put on/removed at any time.


----------



## Anoxy

IPS master race reporting in. That's definitely yellow.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> A litte Update from my Rig...
> 
> Top Radiator is now a Alphacool Monsta 480 with 8 NB eloops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some Pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those CaseLabs cases are so pimp... too bad I would have to sell a kidney to get one.


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Those CaseLabs cases are so pimp... too bad I would have to sell a kidney to get one.


This one is LDCooling V8 not CaseLabs


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> This one is LDCooling V8 not CaseLabs


Ahh my bad it looks like the STH10/ST10 from what I have seen in pictures here... my bad. Price still up there though


----------



## psycho84

Exactly its an LD Cooling V8 *Reverse*









In the "normal" one a Monsta doesn't fit on Top Mounting...


----------



## wermad

Luv Em LD V8









LD V8 vs STH10


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm trying VERY Hard to resist blowing all that money to replace all of my 1/2 x 3/4 fittings for my CaseLabs overhaul....
> 
> By the way... This thread trying to distinguish the color of that dye shows two things... A.) a large % of the male population suffers from colorblindness, of varying degrees. B.) The difference in monitor quality/color production.


Looks yellow without shadows, but the tube with shadow on it does have a green tint. It definitely a color right in between I would say. And I know I am not colorblind, I just had my eye test done this year where they where testing for that since my job requires me to be able to tell color. Don't want people pulling those yellow/black handles now.









Dang it, ever time I see a Case Lab case I really want to buy one, but at least not until next year.


----------



## Puunh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks pretty yellow to me, but the difference between green and yellow is often debated.
> 
> It's weird how we all can look at the same things yet we all see them so differently. Just look at all the topics on whether Lemon-Lime Gatorade is green or yellow. There never will be a consensus (Lemon-Lime Gatorade is *green* btw).


You...afsgasdfg ITS YELLOW


----------



## stickg1

Okay I'm pretty sure this is green now. I added some more ocean blue.


----------



## Puunh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay I'm pretty sure this is green now. I added some more ocean blue.


Baby poo green. Hooah.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay I'm pretty sure this is green now. I added some more ocean blue.


Starting to hit that green hue mark. But still looks more yellow to me (calibrated monitor). Kinda like a cross between yellow and a green pea color. I'd say it needs more dye. Or like a slightly radioactive yellow/green color, with emphasis on the yellow hue.


----------



## phallacy

Hey guys this is my build in a 750d. Got an ax360 up top and a 280 nexxos monsta at the front. Using xspc razor blocks for my 290x and the raystorm for my 4770k. Hope you like


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay I'm pretty sure this is green now. I added some more ocean blue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Still more yellow than green!

Was your color blindness responsible for the.. ahem.. wide range of colors you chose so far?


----------



## Puunh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phallacy*
> 
> Hey guys this is my build in a 750d. Got an ax360 up top and a 280 nexxos monsta at the front. Using xspc razor blocks for my 290x and the raystorm for my 4770k. Hope you like











Love seeing 280 monstas. Awesome rads.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Still more yellow than green!
> 
> Was your color blindness responsible for the.. ahem.. wide range of colors you chose so far?


lol probably.

I don't think I can fit my pump/res combo when I upgrade to a larger tube. I might as well upgrade pumps, I can tuck the pump under the front rad and hang the res on the mobo tray.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm trying VERY Hard to resist blowing all that money to replace all of my 1/2 x 3/4 fittings for my CaseLabs overhaul....
> 
> By the way... This thread trying to distinguish the color of that dye shows two things... A.) a large % of the male population suffers from colorblindness, of varying degrees. B.) The difference in monitor quality/color production.


I doubt my fittings cost as much as your's did so i can understand,atleast you are more likely to be able to sell yours,here is aus it's hard to find fittings you need (more likely have to buy mine from overseas) not to mention to be able to sell them....Will definitely try it one day for the experience and aesthetics of it....


----------



## SlvrDragon50

What are your temps like phallacy?

I'm considering crossfired 7950s in the future, but I only have 2x240.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> Have a look of ny new project "Rig Unknown"
> 
> Parts
> 
> Case: Coolermaster SE black Cosmos
> PSU: Coolermaster rs 850
> Mobo: Asus ramapage 3 gene
> CPU: Intel i7 950 [email protected]
> VGA: Asus GTX 670 sli
> Ram: 12gb kit kingston hyper x @1600Mhz
> SSD: Intel 520 120gb
> HDD: Seagte 2tb
> 
> Watercooling parts:
> EK - ALPHACOOL - CORSAIR - Primochill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build my man! I can tell that you took a lot of time to plan the layout and loop to nice effect. The connections to the GPU's is especially nice and unique!


----------



## phallacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> What are your temps like phallacy?
> 
> I'm considering crossfired 7950s in the future, but I only have 2x240.


With 2 way I was able to keep the cards max core at 50 and vrm1 at 61 max while CPU was mid 40s in games and mid 50s in benches. That was before I had the alphacool rad. With 3 way gpu cores are now at 55 max while vrms are at 51 max due to fujipoly upgrade. Bad thing is CPU temps have risen by about 10 idle is same but gaming is now low 50s while benching is low 60s.


----------



## Anoxy

Not sure where else to ask this, and you guys always seem to know the answers









I have a Lamptron CW611 with max 36 watts per channel. I'm wondering if it would be alright to connect an NZXT Grid to one channel of the Lamptron and run 8 GT AP-15s off that single channel. Then I would get another NZXT Grid and connect it to a second channel on my Lamptron and run 6 more GT AP-15s off that.

If that's possible, will I still be able to control the RPMs with the fan controller with so many fans on each channel?


----------



## wermad

I've done that multiple times. Keep in mind if you're exceeding the maximum wattage per channel, it will just slow down your fans. I've hooked up to eight 120mm fans on a single 30w channel. I kept it at 40% load all the time so it never got to the max output per channel.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Not sure where else to ask this, and you guys always seem to know the answers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Lamptron CW611 with max 36 watts per channel. I'm wondering if it would be alright to connect an NZXT Grid to one channel of the Lamptron and run 8 GT AP-15s off that single channel. Then I would get another NZXT Grid and connect it to a second channel on my Lamptron and run 6 more GT AP-15s off that.
> 
> If that's possible, will I still be able to control the RPMs with the fan controller with so many fans on each channel?


The GT AP-15 (1850 rpm) fan is rated at 83 mA (0.083 amps) & since watts = amps x volts they use less than 1 watt per fan (.083x12=0.996). I wouldn't go loading up 36 of them on a single channel though. Their startup amp ratting is 360 mA (.36 amps) which would be .36 x 12 = 4.32 watts per fan at startup. so even if you didn't account for the fact that the Lamptron is capable of handling a bit of extra load over it's rated capacity at startup you still could have eight AP-15s per channel and stay under it, but like I said, good fan controllers like the CW611 don't break a sweat at some extra amps at startup, so you could easily have 10 or more on a channel without coming anywhere near the full capacity of the controller.


Spoiler: Images









I also have a Lamptron CW611 and have 8 GeLid Wing12s on one channel, and 6 on another, and @ 220 mA they're rated at more than 2.5 times the watts per fan as the GT AP-15.

As far as using the Grid goes, that's also what I'm using. I'm currently using two of them (8 fans on one and 6 on another), but be forewarned that the Grid splits the 3-pin feed to all 10 ports which isn't what you want for use with a fan controller. It's not hard to fix the issue though. Rather than re-invent the wheel, here's my post from the NZXT grid thread ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sorry for the necro post, but I've been googling and am not seeing this anywhere.
> 
> Is the rpm (tach) signal wire split to all 10 ports in this NZXT hub?
> 
> If it is then this is basically useless to use with most fan controllers because the rpm speed inputs from all of the fans will corrupt the signal and the fan speed will not be correctly reported to the controller. Even cheap 3-pin fan splitter cables will only have all three wires going to one of the fan plugs, and just the 12v and ground to the rest.
> 
> If, as it should be, only one of the 3-pin outputs has the rpm signal wire, then which port is it? Unless you are going to connect fans to all 10 ports this is need-to-know info, but looking at it and the manual I'm not seeing it anywhere.
> 
> I bought two of these thinking they would be useful, but now I'm having second thoughts. I definitely don't want to have to cut the rpm signal wire on all the fans but one just to be able to use this hub with my fan controller.
> 
> *EDIT:*
> 
> I found my multimeter and found out for sure that all 3 inputs are output to all 3 pins on all 10 of the ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a HUGE FAIL on NZXT's part imho, but what could be done about it ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soooo, I took the two screws out and removed the PCB from its cover and took a small pair of wire cutters and snipped the rpm prong from all but one of the 10 output ports.


And here's the one with 6 fans (push-pull on my 360 monsta) plugged into it ...


----------



## Anoxy

Unicr0nhunter, you are the man. Definitely going to copy you and order two of those hubs. Thanks!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Just a note about setting up auto shutdown with the Aquaero. Aqua suite does not need to be set to start with windows. The aquaero is an independant system.

Edit: to be accurate, if the aquaero is wired in then aqua suite does not need to be running. It may need to be running to use the software shutdown options that mimic a keyboard power key press, but seeing as the Aquaero is a USB device it may not even need it then.
Aqua suite is really just a monitoring and programming interface that is not even really needed. Depending on how many overwiew pages you have set up and the number of elements being used having aqua suite running all the time can cause excessive CPU and memory usage.


----------



## BWAS1000

Anyone know of a single 5.25 fan controller with space for the 2 pin temp sensors? Was thinking of having a sensor in my resovoir and letting the fan controller ramp up and ramp down for me.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Okay so lemme make this clear
> 
> I have to kits to choose from
> XSPC Raystorm EX240/750
> And Larkooler Skywater 330
> 
> I'd prefer the XSPC kit, better block better pump bigger res. Also think the rad is better. But I have an Arc Mini and An Thermaltake S21. the Arc mini will be going under water first. It has 2 5.2 bays, which I would like to use, which is the only reason I'm looking at the Skywater. Its not a dual bay res.


I believe it was @fast_fate that did a build with a dual bay res mounted internally at the bottom of the case. The build had purple/magenta tubing and flow meter. Looked great.


----------



## Seid Dark

Due to financial reasons l may have to scrap my plans for high end custom water loop with Phanteks Enthoo. Now I'm starting to settle for NZXT H440 for case and EK L360 water cooling kit.

Here's the specs:

- universal CPU water block: EK-Supreme LTX UNI CSQ 2013 (incl. mounting- & thermal material)
- radiator: EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360)
- radiator fan: EK-FAN Silent 120-1600 RPM (3pcs)
- water pump / reservoir combo unit: EK-DCP 2.2 X-RES incl. Pump
- tubing: EK-TUBE ZMT Matte Black 16/10mm (2 meters)
- compression fittings: EK-CSQ Fitting 16/10mm - G1/4 Nickel (6 pcs)
- coolant concentrate: EK-Ekoolant UV Blue (100mL; for 1L of coolant)¨

Reviews seem good but I'm still wondering If there's any obvious weak points in this. My original plan was to go with Laing D5 pump but DCP 2.2 should be enough for my rig, right?

I will replace the tubing with Primochill Advanced LRT UV yellow. Later I will expand this with 780 Classified block and 240 rad (Alphacool UT60 or Monsta). Classy consumes insane amounts of power once properly overvolted so this loop needs to be adequate.


----------



## Ice Reign

I got the block patched up and replaced the coolent. Thanks to those who provided advice.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Anyone know of a single 5.25 fan controller with space for the 2 pin temp sensors? Was thinking of having a sensor in my resovoir and letting the fan controller ramp up and ramp down for me.


check AeroCool Touch 2100, controls 5 FAN at 25W with 5 Temp sensor.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999243
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5594/aerocool-touch-2100-fan-controller-review/index6.html


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> I got the block patched up and replaced the coolent. Thanks to those who provided advice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My build is almost exactly like this! Without the acrylic tubing. Same colour pretty much and gpu block setup







Mine's called black ice









Edit: if you open up the plug really carefully you can fill the empty void of them being in parallel and the water just sits there. BE REALLY CAREFUL. I did this I'll be posting pictures as soon as I'm done sleeving all my cables









second edit: this is so weird how close it is to mine... awesome build, same pump, same polished ek blocks...


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> check AeroCool Touch 2100, controls 5 FAN at 25W with 5 Temp sensor.
> 
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999243
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5594/aerocool-touch-2100-fan-controller-review/index6.html


Likes like the standard 2-pin probes, but its a dual bay controller, so close.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I believe it was @fast_fate that did a build with a dual bay res mounted internally at the bottom of the case. The build had purple/magenta tubing and flow meter. Looked great.


Yep BayRes fitted internally on the floor - clear acrylic with purple coolant.


Changed loop around a bit now - and mixed up a yellow / green coolant, depending on the angle you're looking at it and lighting .
I'm looking at it now and some tubes look yellow and some green - some both which is really trippy








This would really confuse stickg1 and his yellow pea & ham mix


----------



## williamHL

Can i change something?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yep BayRes fitted internally on the floor - clear acrylic with purple coolant.
> 
> 
> Changed loop around a bit now - and mixed up a yellow / green coolant, depending on the angle you're looking at it and lighting .
> I'm looking at it now and some tubes look yellow and some green - some both which is really trippy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would really confuse stickg1 and his yellow pea & ham mix


Looks pretty cool. For my arc mini, I was thinking of removing the drive cages and using a 5.25 to slim ODD and 2.5inch bay and having a single bay fan controller, preferably one with the 2 pin connectors, so I can put a probe in my reservoir. This would also allow the fans to adjust based on water temperature. 2 240mm rads since the drive cages will be removed, but still space for an SSD and if I need one a 2.5 HDD.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Likes like the standard 2-pin probes, but its a dual bay controller, so close.


These are single bay but I don't have any of them. I connected my Water temp sensor installed in the reservoir directly on my ASUS R4BE which as 3 optional 2 pin connector.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999230

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999215


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> These are single bay but I don't have any of them. I connected my Water temp sensor installed in the reservoir directly on my ASUS R4BE which as 3 optional 2 pin connector.
> 
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999230
> 
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999215


No guarantee the board will have that connector, I would also prefer to use the hardware controller, as opposed to software.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Anyone know of a single 5.25 fan controller with space for the 2 pin temp sensors? Was thinking of having a sensor in my resovoir and letting the fan controller ramp up and ramp down for me.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1357575/introducing-the-lamptron-cw611-water-cooling-assisted-fan-controller/

The Lamptron CW611 is rated @ 36 watts per channel x 6 channels. It lets you set a min & max fan speed and a target temp for a channel, which can be monitored with either air or water temp sensors. It comes with an air sensor for each channel or you can by inline or plug water temp sensors to use with it. You can also set up a channel to voltage control / monitor a pump or monitor a flow meter instead.

In automatic mode when you hit your target temp the CW611 begins ramping up fan speeds in steps towards your max fan speed setting. If temps continue to rise then about every 2C it will increase fan speeds until it hits your max speed at about 10C over your set target temp or until temps start to go back down.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1357575/introducing-the-lamptron-cw611-water-cooling-assisted-fan-controller/
> 
> The Lamptron CW611 lets you set a min & max fan speed and a target temp for a channel, which can be monitored with either air or water temp sensors. It comes with an air sensor for each channel or you can by inline or plug water temp sensors to use with it. You can also set up a pump or a flow meter on a channel.
> 
> In automatic mode when you hit your target temp the CW611 begins ramping up fan speeds in steps towards your max fan speed setting in steps. If temps continue to rise then about every 2C it will increase fan speeds until it hits your max speed at about 10C over your set target temp or until temps start to go back down.


Blech, thats expensive as hell. I guess I have an idea, doubt it will work though.


----------



## PinzaC55

Has anyone got one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Harbinger-FMJ-Reservoir-Sleeve-for-Bitspower-Z-Multi-250-Slot-Silver-/400669258139?pt=UK_Computing_Water_Cooling&hash=item5d49bfb19b and how does it look when installed?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Blech, thats expensive as hell. I guess I have an idea, doubt it will work though.


Perhaps a Lamptron FC Touch is more within your price range?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CPW_leru9rwCFQ5gMgodugcAYQ&Item=N82E16811997113
http://www.amazon.com/Lamptron-FC-Touch-Channel-Aluminum/dp/B004I0H7S6/

Unlike the CW611 it's a touch screen controller. I've never had one so I can't speak to it first-hand, but have read that it has similar auto temp control settings. It just doesn't have the pump / flow meter features or as high a wattage rating. Not sure that it will ramp up / down fan speeds in steps like the CW611 does though. I think it might just bounce back and forth between your min and max fan speed settings.

With fan controllers you get what you pay for. It took me a long time learning the hard way that it doesn't pay to load up the channels with enough fans that their combined operating amps go much over ~50% of the controller's rated wattage capacity, especially for cheaper FCs. I've personally killed controllers from NZXT, bitfenix, Aerocool, and sunbeam. Of those only the Sunbeam rhoebus was able to handle loading it up with ~6 or more fans per channel for any length of time before it croaked. In my experience running fans near full blast wasn't a big deal, but dialing down the fan speeds is usually what killed them. They all tend to get pretty hot the lower volts/RPMs I'd try to run the fans at.

For now the Lamptron CW611 is meeting my needs, but my next controller is going to have to be an Aquaero 6.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Perhaps a Lamptron FC Touch is more within your price range?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CPW_leru9rwCFQ5gMgodugcAYQ&Item=N82E16811997113
> http://www.amazon.com/Lamptron-FC-Touch-Channel-Aluminum/dp/B004I0H7S6/
> 
> Unlike the CW611 it's a touch screen controller. I've never had one so I can't speak to it first-hand, but have read that it has similar auto temp control settings. It just doesn't have the pump / flow meter features or as high a wattage rating. Not sure that it will ramp up / down fan speeds in steps like the CW611 does though. I think it might just bounce back and forth between your min and max fan speed settings.
> 
> With fan controllers you get what you pay for. It took me a long time learning the hard way that it doesn't pay to load up the channels with enough fans that their combined operating amps go much over ~50% of the controller's rated wattage capacity, especially for cheaper FCs. I've personally killed controllers from NZXT, bitfenix, Aerocool, and sunbeam. Of those only the Sunbeam rhoebus was able to handle loading it up with ~6 or more fans per channel for any length of time before it croaked. In my experience running fans near full blast wasn't a big deal, but dialing down the fan speeds is usually what killed them. They all tend to get pretty hot the lower volts/RPMs I'd try to run the fans at.
> 
> For now the Lamptron CW611 is meeting my needs, but my next controller is going to have to be an Aquaero 6.


Nope still too expensive, but I'll think of something.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> Have a look of ny new project "Rig Unknown"


Looking good. You have a shop, eh? Curious to know where even though it sure ain't around these parts.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Nope still too expensive, but I'll think of something.


what about the bitfenix?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16086/bus-312/Bitfenix_Recon_Five_Channel_Fan_Controller_w_Internet_Connected_Control_-_Black_BFA-RCN-KS-RP.html


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> what about the bitfenix?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16086/bus-312/Bitfenix_Recon_Five_Channel_Fan_Controller_w_Internet_Connected_Control_-_Black_BFA-RCN-KS-RP.html


Looks pretty good, I'm wondering if it has the standard temperature probes. I never needed any high end fan controller, just one that uses the 2 pin temperature probes.


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> I got the block patched up and replaced the coolent. Thanks to those who provided advice.






Hit us with some more pictures.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> what about the bitfenix?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16086/bus-312/Bitfenix_Recon_Five_Channel_Fan_Controller_w_Internet_Connected_Control_-_Black_BFA-RCN-KS-RP.html


Looking at some of these controllers I have to wonder if, as with PSU's , they are made by one or two manufacturers and rebranded?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Looking at some of these controllers I have to wonder if, as with PSU's , they are made by one or two manufacturers and rebranded?


IT wouldn''t be surprising.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Are there really any "bad" blocks? Now that I think about it, I don't think I can fit compression fittings on my XSPC block. How's the Swiftech Apogee HD, is it decent? The spacing looks good enough for compressions at least.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Are there really any "bad" blocks? Now that I think about it, I don't think I can fit compression fittings on my XSPC block. How's the Swiftech Apogee HD, is it decent? The spacing looks good enough for compressions at least.


There is plenty of room for compression fittings on the Apogee HD. Martin's testing has it listed as one of the top performing blocks. I think his data though was compiled some time ago.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Are there really any "bad" blocks? Now that I think about it, I don't think I can fit compression fittings on my XSPC block. How's the Swiftech Apogee HD, is it decent? The spacing looks good enough for compressions at least.




XSPC Raystorm Chrome CPU Waterblock with Alphacool thumbscrews and Bitspower dual rotary 90 degree adapters.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Are there really any "bad" blocks? Now that I think about it, I don't think I can fit compression fittings on my XSPC block. How's the Swiftech Apogee HD, is it decent? The spacing looks good enough for compressions at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC Raystorm Chrome CPU Waterblock with Alphacool thumbscrews and Bitspower dual rotary 90 degree adapters.
Click to expand...

I think the XSPC block I have is an old model, before Raystorm branding, and just by eyeing it 2 compressions side by side would be tight or to tight. That's a nice solution though.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I think the XSPC block I have is an old model, before Raystorm branding, and just by eyeing it 2 compressions side by side would be tight or to tight. That's a nice solution though.


So just grab a couple extenders? Or use rotary angled compressions.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Are there really any "bad" blocks? Now that I think about it, I don't think I can fit compression fittings on my XSPC block. How's the Swiftech Apogee HD, is it decent? The spacing looks good enough for compressions at least.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I think the XSPC block I have is an old model, before Raystorm branding, and just by eyeing it 2 compressions side by side would be tight or to tight. That's a nice solution though.


Assuming you mean you have the Rasa block, smaller compression fittings should fit, such as 1/2" OD. But 1/2" x 3/4" probably wouldn't fit, or would be extremely tight fit if they do


----------



## PinzaC55

I just had a look on Fleabay and theres a Raystorm BLACK AND RED special edition to match ROG motherboards advertised in Brady, Texas. Man it looks sweet. Just search for "XSPC Raystorm.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Are there really any "bad" blocks? Now that I think about it, I don't think I can fit compression fittings on my XSPC block. How's the Swiftech Apogee HD, is it decent? The spacing looks good enough for compressions at least.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There is plenty of room for compression fittings on the Apogee HD. Martin's testing has it listed as one of the top performing blocks. I think his data though was compiled some time ago.


it is still one the best.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC Raystorm Chrome CPU Waterblock with Alphacool thumbscrews and Bitspower dual rotary 90 degree adapters.










So awesome


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So just grab a couple extenders? Or use rotary angled compressions.


I don't necessarily want to go all out spending money like crazy on my first simple cpu only loop







Trying not to at least...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Assuming you mean you have the Rasa block, smaller compression fittings should fit, such as 1/2" OD. But 1/2" x 3/4" probably wouldn't fit, or would be extremely tight fit if they do


I have an older RS240 kit I beleive, bought some 1/2" x 3/4" compressions for cheap and was planning to just use them, but putting them up to the block I don't think it will work. Currently the loop is complete, bought it used, so I will have to drain it and then will be reassembling it at some point with new tubing and adjusting it to my case. I don't think I need to WC quite yet, I can't even get my cpu over 40C on air, but stock clocks as well... I'll just plan it and pick up parts as I go until it is necessary for summer, at least that is the plan so far. For the moment I am just investigating watercooling, coming up with some ideas about how to put it together.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I don't necessarily want to go all out spending money like crazy on my first simple cpu only loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying not to at least...


I'm sure two fittings or extenders are cheaper than buying a whole new block though


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Has anyone got one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Harbinger-FMJ-Reservoir-Sleeve-for-Bitspower-Z-Multi-250-Slot-Silver-/400669258139?pt=UK_Computing_Water_Cooling&hash=item5d49bfb19b and how does it look when installed?


Have a look at my buddy's log, although it's the black version.
Post #20

Gaming with Colours( Red harbinger:Cross desk / Bitspower & Aquacomputer)

Looks pretty slick!


----------



## Cman1468

Can I get in ze club?


Yes, it WAS a digital storm computer, several years back. Most everything is new, except the case (H2O cooling is new, only thing that is the same is some of the tubing, reservoir, and the single 120mm radiator inside...)


----------



## Devildog83

I have finally decided to oust my H100i and build a loop for just my CPU, it's an FX 8350 on a CHVFZ board. I am doing a ton of research before I commit to anything and that's why I am here. Since the water-block will be my first purchase I thought I might ask for opinions in here, what would be the best block for me to start out with? I am also going to use rigid tubing and was wondering what the best diameter tubing is. As far as I am concerned it should be what will give me the best cooling. Thanks to anyone willing to help a noob to water-cooling cooling.


----------



## Puunh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I have finally decided to oust my H100i and build a loop for just my CPU, it's an FX 8350 on a CHVFZ board. I am doing a ton of research before I commit to anything and that's why I am here. Since the water-block will be my first purchase I thought I might ask for opinions in here, what would be the best block for me to start out with? I am also going to use rigid tubing and was wondering what the best diameter tubing is. As far as I am concerned it should be what will give me the best cooling. Thanks to anyone willing to help a noob to water-cooling cooling.


XSPC Raystorm or EK Supremecy are super awesome mega duper blocks. 3/8" ID by 5/8" OD is a good tube size for noobs. Much easier to plan and work with. You won't see any real performance gains in the 1/2" ID by 3/4" OD tube.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puunh*
> 
> XSPC Raystorm or EK Supremecy are super awesome mega duper blocks. 3/8" ID by 5/8" OD is a good tube size for noobs. Much easier to plan and work with. You won't see any real performance gains in the 1/2" ID by 3/4" OD tube.


Thanks, is 3/8 x 1/2 rigid acrylic OK? I can really get any size but the fittings seem more standard for 3/8 x 1/2.

I am looking here for the tubing. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22752


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yep BayRes fitted internally on the floor - clear acrylic with purple coolant.
> 
> 
> Changed loop around a bit now - and mixed up a yellow / green coolant, depending on the angle you're looking at it and lighting .
> I'm looking at it now and some tubes look yellow and some green - some both which is really trippy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would really confuse stickg1 and his yellow pea & ham mix


Do tell where you got that purple coolant from?


----------



## Angrychair

I have 1/2" ID compression fittings on my Raystorm, it's close but definitely works


----------



## Puunh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Do tell where you got that purple coolant from?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292_1252&products_id=38711
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Thanks, is 3/8 x 1/2 rigid acrylic OK? I can really get any size but the fittings seem more standard for 3/8 x 1/2.
> 
> I am looking here for the tubing. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22752


Yep. 3/8 by 1/2 is more common for rigid acrylic definitely.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> I have 1/2" ID compression fittings on my Raystorm, it's close but definitely works


Maximus v formula still looks the most badass out of the maximus series imo lol.


----------



## Devildog83

I like the Raystorm but I could only find it with a Blue glow, do they make red?


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Looks pretty good, I'm wondering if it has the standard temperature probes. I never needed any high end fan controller, just one that uses the 2 pin temperature probes.


How about this one..
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=39888


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I like the Raystorm but I could only find it with a Blue glow, do they make red?


You get blue leds by default,just buy some red leds to replace it....


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> You get blue leds by default,just buy some red leds to replace it....


Do you think I could steal some out of my Corsair LED fans?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Do you think I could steal some out of my Corsair LED fans?


The block uses 3mm leds,so if the ones on the fans are the same size i dn't see why not....

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1354_1356&products_id=22349&zenid=ce7934842dfc18302d1e5122be097c93

Just for the record the leds are really cheap to buy....


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Do tell where you got that purple coolant from?


Sorry








was a custom blend that I was unable to replicate again








The second batch turned out terrible and I ended up ditching it.
good Vs bad


----------



## Anoxy

Any of you guys get the 10% discount from FCPU for using ResellerRatings? I sent mine and haven't received anything yet. Waiting on it to place my order.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Any of you guys get the 10% discount from FCPU for using ResellerRatings? I sent mine and haven't received anything yet. Waiting on it to place my order.


I did, it took a day or two for them to send me the code once I submitted the proof to them.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Any of you guys get the 10% discount from FCPU for using ResellerRatings? I sent mine and haven't received anything yet. Waiting on it to place my order.


I never got mine, submitted it months ago... Told them, they didn't seem to care. 10% discount would still probably only bring it down to the price of ordering from PPC's w/ the -5.5% code + 5$ over night.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I never got mine, submitted it months ago... Told them, they didn't seem to care. 10% discount would still probably only bring it down to the price of ordering from PPC's w/ the -5.5% code + 5$ over night.


I wish I could say that, like most of us here, I shop around like crazy for pricing, I've had multiple tabs open with identical carts for both stores and they are usually within a dollar or two, counting the coupons also. And the shipping charges for me in SoCal suck from both, but they suck less from frozen for some reason.... And I've been burned on the last two orders I've placed with Hank @ppcs, mistakes happen, and problem solved, but it took weeks to resolve, even though the items were in stock. I still look all over for price and availability, but the orders usually end up with FCPU


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Any of you guys get the 10% discount from FCPU for using ResellerRatings? I sent mine and haven't received anything yet. Waiting on it to place my order.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I wish I could say that, like most of us here, I shop around like crazy for pricing, I've had multiple tabs open with identical carts for both stores and they are usually within a dollar or two, counting the coupons also. And the shipping charges for me in SoCal suck from both, but they suck less from frozen for some reason.... And I've been burned on the last two orders I've placed with Hank @ppcs, mistakes happen, and problem solved, but it took weeks to resolve, even though the items were in stock. I still look all over for price and availability, but the orders usually end up with FCPU


I got my coupon shortly after the review. And then I also waited and compiled a ridiculously huge order and then spent time flipping between Performance-PCs, FrozenCPU, Sidewinder, and Aquatuning narrowing down the best price with all discounts and shipping included. I ended up saving every penny I could and got stuff from all but Sidewinder(this time!), but man was it a relief to finally get those orders in and stop stressing out every time I opened my carts to see stuff out of stock and whatnot. I am super excited because everything comes tomorrow...my day off! Caselabs, 780ti classifieds, & all my stuff from Frozen and Performance.

(Strangely, I placed the order to Aquatuning last but received it today. So, Denmark to Colorado faster than either coast! In all fairness to Frozen and Performance tho, I ordered after 1 am and they both had shipped by 10 am that morning!)


----------



## Anoxy

Aquatuning has the fastest and cheapest shipping in my experience. I vastly prefer them or PPCs, but FCPU has the larger stock it seems, so I have to settle for extremely slow processing and shipping









The whole "rush processing" thing just kills me. You should be rushing to process everything.


----------



## kpoeticg

I think all 3 have extremely great shipping.

I can't really say that one is better than the other. If it's late in the day i usually choose the rush processing for like 3 bux or whatever. All 3 companies ship right away for me though...

Well maybe Aquatuning is a day slower because they have that payment process i've never seen anywhere else.

PPC tends to have better prices than FCPU on probly like 85% of their stuff though


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> PPC tends to have better prices than FCPU on probly like 85% of their stuff though


That only works well if you don't live in FL, otherwise, the sales tax surpasses the savings


----------



## kpoeticg

Didn't know that. Kinda sucks for people that live in florida. Especially since people in florida can obviously get their orders quicker


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Any of you guys get the 10% discount from FCPU for using ResellerRatings? I sent mine and haven't received anything yet. Waiting on it to place my order.


The problem with getting the 10% is how resellerratings works. You can see your review when you are logged in or have the cookie on your computer from when you were logged in and posted the review, but if you clear cache/cookies or use a different computer and try to go to the link you sent FrozenCPU you'll likely find that your review doesn't show up. ResellerRatings sometimes sits on new reviews for weeks and maybe never makes your review go public especially if it was your first review after joining their site. And if FrozenCPU can't see your review, then they won't respond with the 10% discount code unless you can show them some kind of proof you held up your end of the deal.

I emailed back and forth with them and they only finally sent me the 10% off code after I sent them a screen capture video in the form of an animated gif that showed me clicking the link I sent them and it taking me to my review instead of to the page they were getting.

I also was surprised to find that Aquatuning was quicker shipping to me from Germany than I've ever gotten from FCPU, PPCS, Newegg, Amazon, etc. I live in the middle of nowhere, more than an hour away from the nearest FedEx or UPS locations, and if I choose a '3-day shipping' option from any US-based company they always take 5 or more business days to get to me, but my order from Aquatuning was actually at my door in 3 days. They do add a hefty tax on top of shipping though that was a bit of a surprise.

And yeah, PPCS often does tend to have a little better prices than FCPU on most things, but their shipping always comes out more to me by quite a bit sometimes and they have always taken longer to get my order to me when choosing similar shipping options. FCPU always amazes me how fast they process and ship my orders. Faster than any other e'tailer of any kind I've ever dealt with. I usually get a tracking # within an hr or two and it always ships same day. I can't say the same for PPCs.


----------



## Simplynicko

can someone link me to the offer? where are the rules for getting 10% off?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> can someone link me to the offer? where are the rules for getting 10% off?


You get the details in the confirmation email after placing an order with them.



But like I said above, you should make sure your review is actually visible to a different computer or your computer after clearing cache/cookies, before submitting to FCPU for the discount code. If you've never used rersellerratings before don't be surprised if it takes a while for them to make it public, if they ever do at all.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> That only works well if you don't live in FL, otherwise, the sales tax surpasses the savings


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Didn't know that. Kinda sucks for people that live in florida. Especially since people in florida can obviously get their orders quicker


That's actually one of the reasons I buy from PPCS first, then FCPU, then on down the list from there...
I'd rather lose the savings of the 5.5% coupon in taxes to support a business in my state, and they usually have what I'm looking for.
If one of them has a special seasonal sale or something, I'll favor that, but yeah...

Most of all?
I like that PPCS is about an hour drive from here, so shipping is QUIIIICK.









Thanks - T


----------



## pc-illiterate

an hour away from ppcs and you dont pick up? pffft. i picked up every order from sidewinders and went to microcenter, 2.5 hours roughly 1 way, whenever i wanted something that was cheaper than frys. granted i spent a bit on gas but i still saved at least $5 and got to window shop 1 of the local mc.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> an hour away from ppcs and you dont pick up? pffft. i picked up every order from sidewinders and went to microcenter, 2.5 hours roughly 1 way, whenever i wanted something that was cheaper than frys. granted i spent a bit on gas but i still saved at least $5 and got to window shop 1 of the local mc.


Nah, it's actually about 1h 15-20m, and if there is traffic on the coast, it makes it a bit more.
Plus it's totally the WRONG direction, as everywhere we go is toward the center of the state, not out that way!

Thanks - T


----------



## Simplynicko

this 62859 post thread just went off topic


----------



## Thrasher1016

How many times has THAT happened?









Debating swapping down from Primochill (Imperial) rigid tubing and fittings, which I would have to sell, to go to the 12mm OD rigid stuff that can fit BP fittings, just to get more variety.
I'd only be losing color choices, really.

Opinions:
If money were no problem, what would any of you do?
Keep with what I've already acquired or get over to something more varied?

Thanks - T


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> I have 1/2" ID compression fittings on my Raystorm, it's close but definitely works


Ohh, nice. I will have to test fit mine then.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I like the Raystorm but I could only find it with a Blue glow, do they make red?


Yes performancepcs gives u the option or u can manually change the led color.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I wish I could say that, like most of us here, I shop around like crazy for pricing, I've had multiple tabs open with identical carts for both stores and they are usually within a dollar or two, counting the coupons also. And the shipping charges for me in SoCal suck from both, but they suck less from frozen for some reason.... And I've been burned on the last two orders I've placed with Hank @ppcs, mistakes happen, and problem solved, but it took weeks to resolve, even though the items were in stock. I still look all over for price and availability, but the orders usually end up with FCPU


I live in SoCal too. Everytime I make the same cart for both FCPU and PPCS it always ends up cheaper at FCPU. The reason is that FCPU does not charge us tax.


----------



## DarthBaggins

For the amd's the raystorm is a nice block, love mine even though i got it used.

The deltas barely fit in my C70 but they move a ton of air through that 240


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Are there really any "bad" blocks? Now that I think about it, I don't think I can fit compression fittings on my XSPC block. How's the Swiftech Apogee HD, is it decent? The spacing looks good enough for compressions at least.


You decide

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup


----------



## Kimir

You should add this one


----------



## Philly_boy

Recently finished a HAF XB with a small but efficient custom loop.















I also designed an built a ghetto cold air induction box to take advantage of the frigid winter that Philly's in the middle of.

I insulated and sound deadened the inside so you can barely hear the three 133cfm Scythe Kama Kaze fans drawing air
in from the outside creating positive pressure to feed the top plate 200mm fan and the 2x 120mm rad intake fans.

There are also 2x Panaflo G's drawing creating negative pressure for the 120mm exhust on the top deck and the twin 80mm fans below.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> That only works well if you don't live in FL, otherwise, the sales tax surpasses the savings


accept that the 5.5% off basically voids the sales tax. Also, you can get some massive packages overnighted for 10$ if you live in state, where as over nighting from anywhere else is obscenely expensive.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I like the Raystorm but I could only find it with a Blue glow, do they make red?


you can buy red 3mm led from XSPC, exact same as blue provided with the block but in red
and they are very cheap

i did it in one of my build, change all blue for red


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> you can buy red 3mm led from XSPC, exact same as blue provided with the block but in red
> and they are very cheap
> 
> i did it in one of my build, change all blue for red
> 
> That's about what I am going for but I will start out by just putting the CPU under water and then maybe the NB/heatsinks. I am moving from the C70 into a 760T when they come out and will have a ton of room to expand the loop as I wish. That is a very nice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going from this to something more like what yo have there except I will not be water-cooling the GPU's, I like the way they look and they stay nice and cool as they are.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 24 pin sleeved cable should be here tomorrow with some white LED's for under the edge of the motherboard.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> you can buy red 3mm led from XSPC, exact same as blue provided with the block but in red
> and they are very cheap
> 
> i did it in one of my build, change all blue for red


well that escalated quickly. Beautiful work there, only thing i'd change is no fan guards.


----------



## Simplynicko

can anyone link me to a illuminated floor mod with decent step-by-step photos. and yes, i know this is watercooling only forum.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> can anyone link me to a illuminated floor mod with decent step-by-step photos. and yes, i know this is watercooling only forum.


http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=225532

http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2012/02/17/illuminate-your-pc-part-3/1


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> can anyone link me to a illuminated floor mod with decent step-by-step photos. and yes, i know this is watercooling only forum.


In this thread is a link to the previous version of the thread that has the exact instructions and pictures of how the famous sLight is made that goes in the murderMod chassis.

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f141/rund-um-das-slight-v1-798070-5.html

You can thank me later









Jeffinslaw


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> In this thread is a link to the previous version of the thread that has the exact instructions and pictures of how the famous sLight is made that goes in the murderMod chassis.
> 
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f141/rund-um-das-slight-v1-798070-5.html
> 
> You can thank me later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Guess I'll need to pull this up via my PC as my iPad isn't aut translating to English lol


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philly_boy*
> 
> Recently finished a HAF XB with a small but efficient custom loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also designed an built a ghetto cold air induction box to take advantage of the frigid winter that Philly's in the middle of.
> 
> I insulated and sound deadened the inside so you can barely hear the three 133cfm Scythe Kama Kaze fans drawing air
> in from the outside creating positive pressure to feed the top plate 200mm fan and the 2x 120mm rad intake fans.
> 
> There are also 2x Panaflo G's drawing creating negative pressure for the 120mm exhust on the top deck and the twin 80mm fans below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Why is everything covered in bath towels?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Why is everything covered in bath towels?


Are you telling us that you DONT have a towel under your PC?
Everyone knows that your PC will run 10-15 degrees cooler if you have a towel under it..


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Why is everything covered in bath towels?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Are you telling us that you DONT have a towel under your PC?
> Everyone knows that your PC will run 10-15 degrees cooler if you have a towel under it..


*grabs towel*


----------



## wermad

^^^Needs more Creme Fraiche


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> an hour away from ppcs and you dont pick up? pffft. i picked up every order from sidewinders and went to microcenter, 2.5 hours roughly 1 way, whenever i wanted something that was cheaper than frys. granted i spent a bit on gas but i still saved at least $5 and got to window shop 1 of the local mc.


lol im only about 35 minutes away, but cheapest shipping gets it here next day and ocn55 almost takes care of taxes.

One of these days ill drive over there though.


----------



## tribolex

I7 3770K
Sabertooth Z77
EVGA 780Ti Classy.
HAF X Advance Case

Could I buy this stuff here?


----------



## Philly_boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Why is everything covered in bath towels?


My space doubles as a project recording studio. All my table tops are glass and very reflective. The towels prevent the sound from bouncing around too much. This way I can hear what is in a mix more clearly.


----------



## Egami

Bitspower Candyland.


----------



## Philly_boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Are you telling us that you DONT have a towel under your PC?
> Everyone knows that your PC will run 10-15 degrees cooler if you have a towel under it..


LMAO!!

The cold air box does lower idle temps by 25-27C and loaded temps by 22-23C. My water temps never go above 2-5C.


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Thanks, is 3/8 x 1/2 rigid acrylic OK? I can really get any size but the fittings seem more standard for 3/8 x 1/2.
> 
> I am looking here for the tubing. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22752


cheaping out on your tubing is not the best idea....the companies that sell it specifically for PC's vet it for breakdown, plasticizers, and dye compatibility


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Thanks, is 3/8 x 1/2 rigid acrylic OK? I can really get any size but the fittings seem more standard for 3/8 x 1/2.
> 
> I am looking here for the tubing. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22752
> 
> 
> 
> cheaping out on your tubing is not the best idea....the companies that sell it specifically for PC's vet it for breakdown, plasticizers, and dye compatibility
Click to expand...

Rigid acrylic tubing doesn't have plasticizer or dye issues. Many people use acrylic tubing from suppliers like USPlastics or McMaster-Carr in their builds. It tends to be a LOT cheaper. As long as it fits the type fittings you want to use there's little-to-no downsides to using their tubing instead, except it's not usually available in colors like some of the watercooling companies' acrylic tubing is.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Are there really any "bad" blocks? Now that I think about it, I don't think I can fit compression fittings on my XSPC block. How's the Swiftech Apogee HD, is it decent? The spacing looks good enough for compressions at least.
> 
> 
> 
> You decide
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

So about a 5-7C difference between all of the blocks. Not a huge difference, but I suppose if you are really tuning for every last ounce of OC it would matter. Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philly_boy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Are you telling us that you DONT have a towel under your PC?
> Everyone knows that your PC will run 10-15 degrees cooler if you have a towel under it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LMAO!!
> 
> The cold air box does lower idle temps by 25-27C and loaded temps by 22-23C. My water temps never go above 2-5C.
Click to expand...

Any condensation issues with it? Sweet temps


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> *So about a 5-7C difference between all of the blocks.* Not a huge difference, but I suppose if you are really tuning for every last ounce of OC it would matter. Thanks
> Any condensation issues with it? Sweet temps


Exactly why I don't want to buy a top of the line block. The Raystorm at 50USD looks enticing.


----------



## Seid Dark

What 30mm 360 rad should I buy? Is there other good options besides Alphacool ST30? I would pair it with XSPC RayStorm D5 Photon AX240 WaterCooling Kit.


----------



## Philly_boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Any condensation issues with it? Sweet temps


Actually, no. With the 200mm fan blowing -10C air into the case it keeps everything cold. Then the exhaust fans take that air back to the outside so my room stays a nice comfy 19-20C.

Condensation comes when there is a large temp difference. Like a cold beer on a summer day. The beer bottle (or glass) is like 3-4C and the surrounding air is 35-36C so condensation forms on the outside of the bottle.

If everything in my case is 3-4C then the water can be as low as 1-2C. As long as the pumps (2x DDC 3.25's in series with a Swiftech hi flow top) keep the water flowing and the cpu is loaded a little I wont freeze the loop. Just for good measures, on really cold nights (-10C or less) I mix in 25% grain alcohol. That lowers the freezing temp to -25C. Plus the alcohol keeps the blocks all shiny and new.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> What 30mm 360 rad should I buy? Is there other good options besides Alphacool ST30? I would pair it with XSPC RayStorm D5 Photon AX240 WaterCooling Kit.


I have had one of these http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-024-BX for over a year now and though I can't provide endless comparison tables it has never let me down.


----------



## stickg1

Ah I think I got it, the "your baby threw up on my white Polo" green.












This is probably how my rig will sit for a few weeks until I get the expendable income for CPU block, top rad, new pump, reservoir accessories, and of course some new more appropriate colored coolant.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philly_boy*
> 
> Actually, no. With the 200mm fan blowing -10C air into the case it keeps everything cold. Then the exhaust fans take that air back to the outside so my room stays a nice comfy 19-20C.
> 
> Condensation comes when there is a large temp difference. Like a cold beer on a summer day. The beer bottle (or glass) is like 3-4C and the surrounding air is 35-36C so condensation forms on the outside of the bottle.
> 
> If everything in my case is 3-4C then the water can be as low as 1-2C. As long as the pumps (2x DDC 3.25's in series with a Swiftech hi flow top) keep the water flowing and the cpu is loaded a little I wont freeze the loop. Just for good measures, on really cold nights (-10C or less) I mix in 25% grain alcohol. That lowers the freezing temp to -25C. Plus the alcohol keeps the blocks all shiny and new.


Well that is slick, taking advantage of the cold lol. I'm assuming that alcohol evaporates off so you have to add it again as needed? Your post made me think of using antifreeze, but that probably has some issues, or maybe just overkill for pc watercooling in general.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ah I think I got it, the "your baby threw up on my white Polo" green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is probably how my rig will sit for a few weeks until I get the expendable income for CPU block, top rad, new pump, reservoir accessories, and of course some new more appropriate colored coolant.


It's kind of grown on me (the color).
Would look GREAT in some kind of a "Bio-Hazard" build


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> It's kind of grown on me (the color).
> Would look GREAT in some kind of a "Bio-Hazard" build


Agree.. nice green color!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philly_boy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Any condensation issues with it? Sweet temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, no. With the 200mm fan blowing -10C air into the case it keeps everything cold. Then the exhaust fans take that air back to the outside so my room stays a nice comfy 19-20C.
> 
> Condensation comes when there is a large temp difference. Like a cold beer on a summer day. The beer bottle (or glass) is like 3-4C and the surrounding air is 35-36C so condensation forms on the outside of the bottle.
> 
> If everything in my case is 3-4C then the water can be as low as 1-2C. As long as the pumps (2x DDC 3.25's in series with a Swiftech hi flow top) keep the water flowing and the cpu is loaded a little I wont freeze the loop. Just for good measures, on really cold nights (-10C or less) I mix in 25% grain alcohol. That lowers the freezing temp to -25C. Plus the alcohol keeps the blocks all shiny and new.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Well that is slick, taking advantage of the cold lol. I'm assuming that alcohol evaporates off so you have to add it again as needed? Your post made me think of using antifreeze, but that probably has some issues, or maybe just overkill for pc watercooling in general.
> 
> Why use antifreeze or grain alcohol over Mayhem XT1? Just curious.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Rigid acrylic tubing doesn't have plasticizer or dye issues. Many people use acrylic tubing from suppliers like USPlastics or McMaster-Carr in their builds. It tends to be a LOT cheaper. As long as it fits the type fittings you want to use there's little-to-no downsides to using their tubing instead, except it's not usually available in colors like some of the watercooling companies' acrylic tubing is.


I can't speak from experience cuz i haven't got to plumbing my rig up with acrylic yet, but i've seen people mention how alot of the "Hardware" companies don't keep their acrylic tubing to the same perfect spec that WC companies do. Don't know if there's any truth to that, cuz i'm really just regurgitating stuff i've read on here. But i've seen people say that tubing from places like McMaster/Tap/Delvie's doesn't always fit perfectly with acrylic fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ah I think I got it, the "your baby threw up on my white Polo" green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is probably how my rig will sit for a few weeks until I get the expendable income for CPU block, top rad, new pump, reservoir accessories, and of course some new more appropriate colored coolant.
> 
> Hehe, your res definitely puts me in the mood for some Split-Pea Soup


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I can't speak from experience cuz i haven't got to plumbing my rig up with acrylic yet, but i've seen people mention how alot of the "Hardware" companies don't keep their acrylic tubing to the same *perfect spec that WC companies do*. Don't know if there's any truth to that, cuz i'm really just regurgitating stuff i've read on here. But i've seen people say that tubing from places like McMaster/Tap/Delvie's doesn't always fit perfectly with acrylic fittings.


I've used the clear acrylic 3/8x1/2 tubing from Primochill, Monsoon, S&W Plastic here in CA, and McMaster, and using my calipers and micrometers I use for ammunition reloading measured samples from all makers/sellers, they ALL have the same dimensions ID/OD and runout, all the same margin of error....... My personal opinion, it's probably all being made by the same OEM or two, unless you are set to use a colored tubing instead of clear, sure, go with Primochill or Monsoon, if your looking to run clear tubing, go with the "bulk" supplier, it's way cheaper and it heats bends and forms the same as far as I could tell.....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm using Mayhems XT-1 even though my W/C loop is at ambient but the bottle says its good for temps below 0C depending on the mixture. Works great for me and the color is perfect (unlike the pastel grape red which was a terrible pinkish purple monstrosity)...


----------



## Philly_boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Well that is slick, taking advantage of the cold lol. I'm assuming that alcohol evaporates off so you have to add it again as needed? Your post made me think of using antifreeze, but that probably has some issues, or maybe just overkill for pc watercooling in general.


I don't like antifreeze as it too thick (even cut with 50% water) and kills the flow of my loop. I built my loop to be very high flow and antifreeze would be counte-rintuitive to that goal.

Alcohol, on the other hand, thins the water out and allows it to flow more easily as well as dropping the freezing point of the mix. My loop is pretty well sealed. I replace about 1oz of fluid every three to four months if I don't drain it in the meantime to accommodate a cold weather run.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Why use antifreeze or grain alcohol over Mayhem XT1? Just curious. .


See above. Grain alcohol is cheap...it gives me better flow and has the potential to drop my mixture's freezing point to -75C.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Here's a question, where does the coolant go??? Seriously, every month or two I have to fill my reservoir back up (usually about half an inch or so) but there are no leaks anywhere so where does the coolant go? Does it evaporate somehow? Just curious...


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Here's a question, where does the coolant go??? Seriously, every month or two I have to fill my reservoir back up (usually about half an inch or so) but there are no leaks anywhere so where does the coolant go? Does it evaporate somehow? Just curious...


Evaporates through radiators? I've been wondering the same thing for some time.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Bitspower Candyland.


Wish those were their gold fittings!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've used the clear acrylic 3/8x1/2 tubing from Primochill, Monsoon, S&W Plastic here in CA, and McMaster, and using my calipers and micrometers I use for ammunition reloading measured samples from all makers/sellers, they ALL have the same dimensions ID/OD and runout, all the same margin of error....... My personal opinion, it's probably all being made by the same OEM or two, unless you are set to use a colored tubing instead of clear, sure, go with Primochill or Monsoon, if your looking to run clear tubing, go with the "bulk" supplier, it's way cheaper and it heats bends and forms the same as far as I could tell.....


Interesting. Thanks for clearing that up. I know i've seen people say that hardware supply companies don't keep the specs as tight. But i know you wouldn't say all that if it wasn't true.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Here's a question, where does the coolant go??? Seriously, every month or two I have to fill my reservoir back up (usually about half an inch or so) but there are no leaks anywhere so where does the coolant go? Does it evaporate somehow? Just curious...
> 
> 
> 
> Evaporates through radiators? I've been wondering the same thing for some time.
Click to expand...

That's how i've always understood it. The warm/hot water passes through the radiator, radiator's being cooled by fans, little water evaporates.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Makes sense. Thanks guys! +Rep


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Bitspower Candyland.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish those were their gold fittings!
Click to expand...


----------



## VSG

So do I but I had to settle for Silver Shining instead


----------



## skupples

The main thing iv'e heard when it comes to different types of acrylic is the quality/ease of bending. Iv'e seen quite a few people point out that the "WC" company acrylic is easier to work with. could be extruded Vs. w/e the other method is.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

So, just to give everyone a good laugh at my expense. I just took my block off my temporary GTX 670 so I can sell the card. And I realized that on every single thermal pad, I forgot to remove the plastic covering. And for some reason I never bothered to check whether or not the vram/vrms were overheating. I feel completely stupid right now







.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> So, just to give everyone a good laugh at my expense. I just took my block off my temporary GTX 670 so I can sell the card. And I realized that on every single thermal pad, I forgot to remove the plastic covering. And for some reason I never bothered to check whether or not the vram/vrms were overheating. I feel completely stupid right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


LOL. You're fortunate that 670 runs so cool







Imagine the thermal meltdown with AMD 290X.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So do I but I had to settle for Silver Shining instead


Same fate here, although I would have been happy had they even had them in white. But no


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The main thing iv'e heard when it comes to different types of acrylic is the quality/ease of bending. Iv'e seen quite a few people point out that the "WC" company acrylic is easier to work with. could be extruded Vs. w/e the other method is.


The other acrylic manufacturing method is cast acrylic, but you will only find cast acrylic in sizes of 1" diameter and larger, it's not cost effective for the smaller diameters, the 3/8x1/2" tubing we can get for the W/C community is all extruded, if it was cast acrylic tubing, it would be 3-4 times more cost per foot than the Primochill/Monsoon extruded is.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Hey Majin, I wish I was that tree in your avatar pic.

So is cast acrylic better in any way?


----------



## EliteReplay

subbed


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Hey Majin, I wish I was that tree in your avatar pic.
> 
> So is cast acrylic better in any way?


Cast acrylic is better in every way, it's harder to break/shatter, it's harder to scratch, and easier to form. But it's also not made in tubing sizes below 1", at least from any vendors I've found. I'm sure a manufacturer would love to make a bulk order for it if asked, but it would be several thousand linear feet required to place that order. And it would still be $3-4 per foot.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I can't speak from experience cuz i haven't got to plumbing my rig up with acrylic yet, but i've seen people mention how alot of the "Hardware" companies don't keep their acrylic tubing to the same perfect spec that WC companies do. Don't know if there's any truth to that, cuz i'm really just regurgitating stuff i've read on here. But i've seen people say that tubing from places like McMaster/Tap/Delvie's doesn't always fit perfectly with acrylic fittings.


So far I've used the tube from McMaster-Carr and Primochill, and I can definitely say that Primochill's acrylic does not have very tight quality-control tolerances. Never any problems with the McMaster-Carr tubing, but with Primochill you will definitely run into tubes that the bending insert doesn't want to slide into / come out of because they have poor quality control issues. There's MANY posts in the 'Acrylic pipebending 101' thread from people who have had those types of problems, and Primochill even admits as much (you can see Brian Farrell, Primochill's owner, discussing it in his how-to video here), and they recommend people sand their bending cord to a smaller dimension and use lubricants to help get their bending cord to work with their tubing.

I had to give up using Primochill's bending cord early on in favor of a length of 9mm buna-n o-ring cord from McMaster-Carr, part # 9679K27, which was a nice find by IT Diva, and use some silicone grease in order to be able to work with the varying I.D. of the Primochill tubing. Primochill actually suggests using olive oil, but that's been universally panned in the 'Acrylic pipebending 101' thread as a bad idea. If you need a lubricant of some sort a few have used soap. but that also can have drawbacks. Best to use a dab of silicone grease, like divers use on o-rings, instead.

As far as actually doing the bending goes or how well they work with Primochill's rigid compression fittings, at least once you have the insert issues worked out, I haven't noticed any major differences between the tubing from Primochill or McMaster-Carr.

FWIW, I bought 18' of the McMaster-Carr tubing only to practice bending with & make a temp loop for testing purposes. I'm actually going with the Primochill tubing in my final loop, but of the two the McMaster-Carr is definitely the 'tighter spec' / easier to work with tube, and @ $3.69 for 6' (0.62¢ ft), compared to Primochill's $20 for 2x2' ($2.50 ft) or $10 for 3' ($3.33 ft), it's a good value as long as you want the clear acrylic. The only reason I could justify using the Primochill instead is if you want the colored versions (like me).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Makes sense. Thanks guys! +Rep


How does water evaporating thru a metal structure make sense?
The tubing is the issue,not the rads. The tubing is water permeable,hence fogging issues etc.


----------



## Jakewat

Will try and get hold of a better camera for final pics but here is the finally finished, first time WC build.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/J...WP_20140303_20_08_37_Pro_zpsb3118ab8.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/J...WP_20140303_20_08_48_Pro_zps2e143e66.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/J...WP_20140303_20_17_45_Pro_zps11ecf470.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/J...WP_20140303_20_21_19_Pro_zps28b2015b.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/J...WP_20140303_21_57_19_Pro_zps737e7e99.jpg.html


----------



## Angrychair

love the bends


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How does water evaporating thru a metal structure make sense?
> The tubing is the issue,not the rads. The tubing is water permeable,hence fogging issues etc.


Ha ha /\/\ THIS /\/\


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Will try and get hold of a better camera for final pics but here is the finally finished, first time WC build.


Thats a seriously neat bend, and love the coolant color


----------



## 15goudreau

Looks like creamsicle *drool*


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> So far I've used the tube from McMaster-Carr and Primochill, and I can definitely say that Primochill's acrylic does not have very tight quality-control tolerances. Never any problems with the McMaster-Carr tubing, but with Primochill you will definitely run into tubes that the bending insert doesn't want to slide into / come out of because they have poor quality control issues. There's MANY posts in the 'Acrylic pipebending 101' thread from people who have had those types of problems, and Primochill even admits as much (you can see Brian Farrell, Primochill's owner, discussing it in his how-to video here), and they recommend people sand their bending cord to a smaller dimension and use lubricants to help get their bending cord to work with their tubing.
> 
> I had to give up using Primochill's bending cord early on in favor of a length of 9mm buna-n o-ring cord from McMaster-Carr, part # 9679K27, which was a nice find by IT Diva, and use some silicone grease in order to be able to work with the varying I.D. of the Primochill tubing. Primochill actually suggests using olive oil, but that's been universally panned in the 'Acrylic pipebending 101' thread as a bad idea. If you need a lubricant of some sort a few have used soap. but that also can have drawbacks. Best to use a dab of silicone grease, like divers use on o-rings, instead.
> 
> As far as actually doing the bending goes or how well they work with Primochill's rigid compression fittings, at least once you have the insert issues worked out, I haven't noticed any major differences between the tubing from Primochill or McMaster-Carr.
> 
> FWIW, I bought 18' of the McMaster-Carr tubing only to practice bending with & make a temp loop for testing purposes. I'm actually going with the Primochill tubing in my final loop, but of the two the McMaster-Carr is definitely the 'tighter spec' / easier to work with tube, and @ $3.69 for 6' (0.62¢ ft), compared to Primochill's $20 for 2x2' ($2.50 ft) or $10 for 3' ($3.33 ft), it's a good value as long as you want the clear acrylic. The only reason I could justify using the Primochill instead is if you want the colored versions (like me).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> So far I've used the tube from McMaster-Carr and Primochill, and I can definitely say that Primochill's acrylic does not have very tight quality-control tolerances. Never any problems with the McMaster-Carr tubing, but with Primochill you will definitely run into tubes that the bending insert doesn't want to slide into / come out of because they have poor quality control issues. There's MANY posts in the 'Acrylic pipebending 101' thread from people who have had those types of problems, and Primochill even admits as much (you can see Brian Farrell, Primochill's owner, discussing it in his how-to video here), and they recommend people sand their bending cord to a smaller dimension and use lubricants to help get their bending cord to work with their tubing.
> 
> I had to give up using Primochill's bending cord early on in favor of a length of 9mm buna-n o-ring cord from McMaster-Carr, part # 9679K27, which was a nice find by IT Diva, and use some silicone grease in order to be able to work with the varying I.D. of the Primochill tubing. Primochill actually suggests using olive oil, but that's been universally panned in the 'Acrylic pipebending 101' thread as a bad idea. If you need a lubricant of some sort a few have used soap. but that also can have drawbacks. Best to use a dab of silicone grease, like divers use on o-rings, instead.
> 
> As far as actually doing the bending goes or how well they work with Primochill's rigid compression fittings, at least once you have the insert issues worked out, I haven't noticed any major differences between the tubing from Primochill or McMaster-Carr.
> 
> FWIW, I bought 18' of the McMaster-Carr tubing only to practice bending with & make a temp loop for testing purposes. I'm actually going with the Primochill tubing in my final loop, but of the two the McMaster-Carr is definitely the 'tighter spec' / easier to work with tube, and @ $3.69 for 6' (0.62¢ ft), compared to Primochill's $20 for 2x2' ($2.50 ft) or $10 for 3' ($3.33 ft), it's a good value as long as you want the clear acrylic. The only reason I could justify using the Primochill instead is if you want the colored versions (like me).


Thank you for this, and all of the other folks that weighed in here. +1 rep. Since I will be using the coolant to color the loop I will buy in bulk which will allow me do a ton of practicing until I get it just right. I have seen too many builds that look great but the tubing bends were slightly off so things did not look perfectly horizontal or vertical. I don't want to make that mistake so practice is a must. Thanks again.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Will try and get hold of a better camera for final pics but here is the finally finished, first time WC build.
> 
> I love the build, not a huge fan of orange but you seem to have pulled it off. Do those EK waterblocks have holes for LED's? White LED's would really set that off nicely.


----------



## jpetrach

Humbly requesting to get the opinion of the community. i would like to hear opinions on the DESK COMPACT. I welcome all comments.

The case is 1/8 in aluminum. measuring 9" wide 13" tall and 11" deep



Inside I have the following:
Asus Maxumis VI Gene Motherboard.
Intel's I5-4670K
Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7850 GPU
Corsair 600M PSU
Corsair H100 Water cooler Modded with Res and Backup Pump and Heater core.
Custom GPU water Block
Kingston 120 GB SSD and 500 GB Hitachi
1X 200MM bottom fan 1x80MM top exhaust fan and the 2 small fans I removed from the GPU cooler.





The Temps shown are after running Call of Duty for about 2 hours then Intel's Burnin Test. ambient temp in room is about 21C/70F


Cooling loop runs RES>Pump>CPU>RAD>GPU>RES


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Thank you for this, and all of the other folks that weighed in here. +1 rep. Since I will be using the coolant to color the loop I will buy in bulk which will allow me do a ton of practicing until I get it just right. I have seen too many builds that look great but the tubing bends were slightly off so things did not look perfectly horizontal or vertical. I don't want to make that mistake so practice is a must. Thanks again.


i just finished a build using mcmaster tubing. much better way to go. the tube and insert i bought from them worked much better, and was of course, much cheaper. i have so much tube left, i probably wont need to order any more for a long time. this route is a must, especially for practice, which you will need lots of. here is a bad pic of the rig i finished last night, well nearly finished. still needs cables and lighting done, and i need 3 more fans for the rad to match.









i still need practice myself.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i just finished a build using mcmaster tubing. much better way to go. the tube and insert i bought from them worked much better, and was of course, much cheaper. i have so much tube left, i probably wont need to order any more for a long time. this route is a must, especially for practice, which you will need lots of. here is a bad pic of the rig i finished last night, well nearly finished. still needs cables and lighting done, and i need 3 more fans for the rad to match.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i still need practice myself.


Thanks, I will buy a ton of it at the prices I have seen. Do they make a backplate for the GPU? What fittings are you using?


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Thanks, I will buy a ton of it at the prices I have seen. Do they make a backplate for the GPU? What fittings are you using?


yep, there is a backplate for my gpu, but that will come later. im using primochill ghost rigid fittings.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> yep, there is a backplate for my gpu, but that will come later. im using primochill ghost rigid fittings.


I will look at those fittings, I can get 60 ft of 3/8" x 1/2" for .65 a foot shipped. Total order less than $40.

The backplate will look sweet!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I will look at those fittings, I can get 60 ft of 3/8" x 1/2" for .65 a foot shipped. Total order less than $40.
> 
> The backplate will look sweet!!


Just generic acrylic tubing or from a manufacturer like primo/monsoon/xspc?


----------



## SinatraFan

I wish I'd known about McMaster before I ordered the Primochill. I bought a bunch of it a couple weeks ago, and indeed, I find McMaster to be very easy to use and more consistent and of course MUCH CHEAPER


----------



## waveaddict

Is this the right rigid acrylic form McMaster-carr?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/=qyoptn


----------



## SinatraFan

Here's the link

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3587/=qyotk0


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Is this the right rigid acrylic form McMaster-carr?
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/=qyoptn


Yes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Here's the link
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3587/=qyotk0


No

That's PETG tubing. It's apparently stronger, easier to melt/bend than acrylic, but it's not UV resistant so will probably yellow/cloud and possibly lose some of its strength over time, and there was some discussion as to whether it would leech (like plasticizer) or stain because it's hydroscopic. It costs more than acrylic, and MNPCTech gave it a try and liked it (at least initially).


Spoiler: Video


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Is this the right rigid acrylic form McMaster-carr?
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/=qyoptn


Yes . . . .
That's the rigid acrylic that most of us who refer to McMaster acrylic have used or are talking about. It works just fine
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Here's the link
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3587/=qyotk0


That's the link to PETG, which is different from acrylic, which has also been discussed here.

I think it would have been more intellectually honest to have specified that in the post, rather than try to trick someone to just get it thinking it's the same acrylic that many of us have used, and are refer to as acrylic in our posts.

Darlene


----------



## SinatraFan

My mistake. I thought that was what you were using. perhaps I need to redo my lines...


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes . . . .
> That's the rigid acrylic that most of us who refer to McMaster acrylic have used or are talking about. It works just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the link to PETG, which is different from acrylic, which has also been discussed here.
> 
> I think it would have been more intellectually honest to have specified that in the post, rather than try to trick someone to just get it thinking it's the same acrylic that many of us have used, and are refer to as acrylic in our posts.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's the rigid acrylic that most of us who refer to McMaster acrylic have used or are talking about. It works just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right on,thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse the funky quote reply.


----------



## Devildog83

This is the link for the place I am buying from. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22752


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's the link to PETG, which is different from acrylic, which has also been discussed here.
> 
> I think it would have been more intellectually honest to have specified that in the post, rather than try to trick someone to just get it thinking it's the same acrylic that many of us have used, and are refer to as acrylic in our posts.
> 
> Darlene


Truth be told, I bought that tubing after clicking on a link from that major thread discussing McM tubing. Sadly, I may now have to redo half of my loop because I have the wrong tubing according to you and uni.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> *Hey Majin, I wish I was that tree in your avatar pic.*
> 
> So is cast acrylic better in any way?


Haha, its actually a drawing! But I know what you mean!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Haha, its actually a drawing! But I know what you mean!


Its still a tree (paper)









... or a digital tree.


----------



## waveaddict

Anyone know where I can get these in M3 x 35mm?
Been looking all over,the longest I've found is 20mm.need them for rad+25mmfan+2mm rad grill.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get these in M3 x 35mm?
> Been looking all over,the longest I've found is 20mm.need them for rad+25mmfan+2mm rad grill.


Here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a135/=qyqugo


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get these in M3 x 35mm?
> Been looking all over,the longest I've found is 20mm.need them for rad+25mmfan+2mm rad grill.


Try here, I didn't look through the whole store but they should have something that will work. http://mnpctech.com/


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get these in M3 x 35mm?
> Been looking all over,the longest I've found is 20mm.need them for rad+25mmfan+2mm rad grill.


I found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pieces-M3x35mm-High-Strength-Socket-Head-Cap-Screws-Metric-3x35mm-/121288688616?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3d5e83e8
But they arent threaded all the way to the top.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> I found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pieces-M3x35mm-High-Strength-Socket-Head-Cap-Screws-Metric-3x35mm-/121288688616?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3d5e83e8
> But they arent threaded all the way to the top.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Try here, I didn't look through the whole store but they should have something that will work. http://mnpctech.com/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a135/=qyqugo


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Wow,what a response OCN rules.Yeah,It's hard to find the BLUE anodized in 35mm,but I think mnpctech looks the best so far.I could go simple black,but want to keep the blue theme.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Wow,what a response OCN rules.Yeah,It's hard to find the BLUE anodized in 35mm,but I think mnpctech looks the best so far.I could go simple black,but want to keep the blue theme.


Try these then, I didn't realize the blue was a requirement:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91502a112/=qyr0x6


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Wow,what a response OCN rules.Yeah,It's hard to find the BLUE anodized in 35mm,but I think mnpctech looks the best so far.I could go simple black,but want to keep the blue theme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the black with blue washers myself but they are a bit spendy.
Click to expand...


----------



## Jetskyer

Very much WIP but finally getting past the renders..










And yes, it's sitting on it's 'face'. Only way to bleed this system.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Truth be told, I bought that tubing after clicking on a link from that major thread discussing McM tubing. Sadly, I may now have to redo half of my loop because I have the wrong tubing according to you and uni.


I think the jury's still out on whether PETG isn't actually a better choice than acrylic or not. It's certainly a LOT stronger, easier to work with, and looks the same at least when new. I mentioned in my post before what might be some drawbacks to it but all of that seems to be more-or-less speculative discussion at this point. Who knows? By this time next year acrylic might have gone by the wayside in favor of PETG tubing. If you're already using it I'd suggest keeping it to see how well or not it does.

Did you see the video I linked before (and again below) from MNPCTech working with it? They sure seem to be promoting it.


Spoiler: Video


----------



## SinatraFan

Fair enough. Half of my system is Primochill and the rest is the PETG from McMaster. Let's roll with it and see where it goes.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's the link to PETG, which is different from acrylic, which has also been discussed here.
> 
> I think it would have been more intellectually honest to have specified that in the post, rather than try to trick someone to just get it thinking it's the same acrylic that many of us have used, and are refer to as acrylic in our posts.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Truth be told, I bought that tubing after clicking on a link from that major thread discussing McM tubing. Sadly, I may now have to redo half of my loop because I have the *wrong tubing* according to you and uni.
Click to expand...

Ohhhhh . . . .

Don't put words in our mouths . . . .

We pointed out that the link was not to acrylic tubing, but to PETG.

We made no value judgment about it.

As Uni stated above, the jury is still out on the PETG.

It may well turn out to be the greatest thing since sliced bread, but since it doesn't say anything about being UV stabilized or its suitability for outdoor use, I'd watch it closely for yellowing and embrittlement.

I've still got about a half dozen sticks from an order back in November of 2012 when I got it along with acrylic for the Stretch build.

Here's the post from the build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/80#post_18688733

It is nice to work with, but I'll use it on a smaller/simpler build that would be easier to manage damage control on if that need came to pass.

I don't see a reason to arbitrarily change that out of your loop, just keep an eye on it, especially if you have UV cathodes


----------



## DarthBaggins

Their prices on acrylic are nice 3/8" x 1/2" 3.69/6ft now if it's good for Watercooling


----------



## PinzaC55

Bit off topic I know, but here's a photo of my rig.


----------



## stickg1

I'm eager to try my new fans when they arrive. Trying to determine wether or not to go push/pull on my 60mm thick Coolgate 240mm rad. It will be a tight fit if I need it. I'm hoping the fans at around 1350RPM will do the job.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Bit off topic I know, but here's a photo of my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Beauty inside


That's perfectly on topic, and looks superb!


----------



## BWAS1000

You guys hear about platform AM1? Guess who want to liquid cool that.......
(and yet I claim I'm broke)


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Try these then, I didn't realize the blue was a requirement:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#91502a112/=qyr0x6


Thanks bro


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> You guys hear about platform AM1? Guess who want to liquid cool that.......
> (and yet I claim I'm broke)


Lol, why W/C it? There's zero performance from the AM1 platform, they are designed for 3rd world countries basically. Take a look http://www.anandtech.com/show/7824/amd-am1-platform-announced-socketed-kabini
It's as low cost/performance as they can make something, and that's saying a lot since it's AMD!


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, why W/C it? There's zero performance from the AM1 platform, they are designed for 3rd world countries basically. Take a look http://www.anandtech.com/show/7824/amd-am1-platform-announced-socketed-kabini
> It's as low cost/performance as they can make something, and that's saying a lot since it's AMD!


I know, just as a project, nothing really high end you know? well other stuff takes priority.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> an hour away from ppcs and you dont pick up? pffft. i picked up every order from sidewinders and went to microcenter, 2.5 hours roughly 1 way, whenever i wanted something that was cheaper than frys. granted i spent a bit on gas but i still saved at least $5 and got to window shop 1 of the local mc.


I picked up one of my orders from FCPU once....was well into 4 digits dollarwise ..... I saved $11 in shipping for about about $380 in mileage expenses based upon the current FMR..... but was worth it to meet all the fellas (and Lori), tour the joint and visit my son away at college on da way home.


----------



## Anoxy

Just got my resellerratings code from FCPU. Took 3 days, so not too shabby. Shame I already ordered most of the expensive stuff for my rebuild. Maybe I'll wait and use it for my fitting overhaul.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ohhhhh . . . .
> 
> Don't put words in our mouths . . . .
> 
> We pointed out that the link was not to acrylic tubing, but to PETG.
> 
> We made no value judgment about it.
> 
> As Uni stated above, the jury is still out on the PETG.
> 
> It may well turn out to be the greatest thing since sliced bread, but since it doesn't say anything about being UV stabilized or its suitability for outdoor use, I'd watch it closely for yellowing and embrittlement.
> 
> I've still got about a half dozen sticks from an order back in November of 2012 when I got it along with acrylic for the Stretch build.
> 
> Here's the post from the build log:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/80#post_18688733
> 
> It is nice to work with, but I'll use it on a smaller/simpler build that would be easier to manage damage control on if that need came to pass.
> 
> I don't see a reason to arbitrarily change that out of your loop, just keep an eye on it, especially if you have UV cathodes


Not trying to lay blame in anyway. If anything, it was my bad. I'm just sharing my timeline so to speak. I still have to figure out what to do with my current loop. But please, if I in any way made it sound like I was arguing or laying blame, let it be known I'm not. Carry on!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Just got my resellerratings code from FCPU. Took 3 days, so not too shabby. Shame I already ordered most of the expensive stuff for my rebuild. Maybe I'll wait and use it for my fitting overhaul.


It expires in 90 days I think.


----------



## Anoxy

Good to know. My order should be well before that though.


----------



## waveaddict

Found this site for M3 bolts for fans or rads all colors & sizes....http://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium/aluminium-bolts-socket-cap.html


----------



## Anoxy

M3 are different than UNC 6-32 right? I like that hex cap style, but my XSPC rads use UNC 6-32.


----------



## Puunh

Hope this can clear up some of the screwing debate.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puunh*
> 
> Hope this can clear up some of the screwing debate.


Alphacool rads are M3


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> That's perfectly on topic, and looks superb!


Yeah and interesting tube routing. I like it.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Not the prettiest one, but this is my rebuild of my first water cooled build. I am really proud of it.



I made the connection between the video cards because crystal link didn't work (wasn't long enough) and I made the acrylic L bracket hold the rez


----------



## Jakewat

What is this white deposit at the bottom of my acrylic tubes? I only see if it if my system has been shutdown for awhile, about 6 or so hours, but flows round and isn't visible when it is on. Better not be anything bad because I don't want to have to drain again








http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps52c88bf9.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps89a33d63.jpg.html


----------



## skupples

So... i'm going to be stuffing a white STH-10 full of black hardware... Should I stick with the black tubing theme, or should I switch over to white tubing for better contrast? acrylic is currently out of the picture, as i'm trying to keep the money spending to a minimum. The only upgrade i'm _planning_ right now is to add another 480x60mm in P/P.

By the way... Is it even possible to run GPU's in parallel/serial/parallel or serial/parallel/serial?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

would you guys have radiator fans sucking air in to a case or pushing it out through the rads? I have someone telling me to have it sucking in.... im not sure


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> What is this white deposit at the bottom of my acrylic tubes? I only see if it if my system has been shutdown for awhile, about 6 or so hours, but flows round and isn't visible when it is on. Better not be anything bad because I don't want to have to drain again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps52c88bf9.jpg.html
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps89a33d63.jpg.html


It's some nano particles from the pastel that have fallen out of suspension. It's nothing to worry about because unless your running a junk pump, they should get picked up by the coolant once the system is turned on again.

I've had the same thing happen with my pastel in the past. It happens easier when the pastel is diluted to much also.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> would you guys have radiator fans sucking air in to a case or pushing it out through the rads? I have someone telling me to have it sucking in.... im not sure


Are you talking about having the radiator setup in just a push vs. pull way, or intaking/ exhausting from the case?


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> would you guys have radiator fans sucking air in to a case or pushing it out through the rads? I have someone telling me to have it sucking in.... im not sure


Technically it is better to have them sucking air in as it will most likely be cooler than in-case air, but really if you have a source of airflow blowing air out or in you could do either with very minimal effect to temps. IMO I prefer to not have the ugly side of the fans showing (the push side).


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Technically it is better to have them sucking air in as it will most likely be cooler than in-case air, but really if you have a source of airflow blowing air out or in you could do either with very minimal effect to temps. IMO I prefer to not have the ugly side of the fans showing (the push side).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Are you talking about having the radiator setup in just a push vs. pull way, or intaking/ exhausting from the case?


yes I am. I posted my pic of my new build I just finished a minute ago, I have the fans pushing air out


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's some nano particles from the pastel that have fallen out of suspension. It's nothing to worry about because unless your running a junk pump, they should get picked up by the coolant once the system is turned on again.
> 
> I've had the same thing happen with my pastel in the past. It happens easier when the pastel is diluted to much also.


Ok thanks, just wanted to check and I think I may have over mixed by about 100ml of water because I was worried that 1LT wouldn't fill it. My XSPC D5 gets rid of it really quick, which brings be to another question: I have my vario set to five, I was meant to tone it down to four but does it really kill it much quicker/ does it affect anything?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> yes I am. I posted my pic of my new build I just finished a minute ago, I have the fans pushing air out


At minimum pull air from the outside to have fresh, cool air going through the radiator. Also, pull also has the advantage to where dust wont be trapped between the fan and the radiator over time. Add push if you have high FPI radiators.

Also, I'm pretty sure you could get rid of all of the angle rotaries on the top radiator on that run going from your top radiator to your top GPU. My







.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So... i'm going to be stuffing a white STH-10 full of black hardware... Should I stick with the black tubing theme, or should I switch over to white tubing for better contrast? acrylic is currently out of the picture, as i'm trying to keep the money spending to a minimum. The only upgrade i'm _planning_ right now is to add another 480x60mm in P/P.
> 
> By the way... Is it even possible to run GPU's in parallel/serial/parallel or serial/parallel/serial?


Ha, I'm trying to make the same decision. Right now I'm gonna start out with clear tubing since I have a bunch left over from my last build. But I think black tubing might look cool against a white case as well. I'll have to see how it looks when I get to building.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> At minimum pull air from the outside to have fresh, cool air going through the radiator. Also, pull also has the advantage to where dust wont be trapped between the fan and the radiator over time. Add push if you have high FPI radiators.
> 
> Also, I'm pretty sure you could get rid of all of the angle rotaries on the top radiator on that run going from your top radiator to your top GPU. My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


hmm okay ill put everything in pull then, I probably could have used less fittings on this but I really wanted it to not have any kinks as my first build looked like CRAP


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So... i'm going to be stuffing a white STH-10 full of black hardware... Should I stick with the black tubing theme, or should I switch over to white tubing for better contrast? acrylic is currently out of the picture, as i'm trying to keep the money spending to a minimum. The only upgrade i'm _planning_ right now is to add another 480x60mm in P/P.
> 
> By the way... Is it even possible to run GPU's in parallel/serial/parallel or serial/parallel/serial?


If your running 4 cards, yes. You run the top and bottom pair in parallel, with a single tube connecting the pairs in series.

Edit: almost forgot, I vote for white tubing!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Has anyone seen this yet?

Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTX Radiators. Their next generation radiators with an interesting "dark matter" finish. I could not find much info online or any chatter on OCN about it. Here is the website and a pic though:

http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/nemesis-products/nemesis-gtx/nemesis-480gtx



Now excuse me, time to update my rig list


----------



## HardwareDecoder

since im on the subject of fans, I'm just using the 1850 rpm or whatever the 1850 means fans that came with my original xspc kit, and some crappy cooler master regular old case fans for the front rad, what are the best fans for radiators? I'd like to buy 4.

Also what are good temps for 2x 290x in a loop?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Has anyone seen this yet?
> 
> Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTX Radiators. Their next generation radiators with an interesting "dark matter" finish. I could not find much info online or any chatter on OCN about it. Here is the website and a pic though:
> 
> http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/nemesis-products/nemesis-gtx/nemesis-480gtx
> 
> 
> 
> Now excuse me, time to update my rig list


fantastic, ima pair dat up with my SR-1.


----------



## Neo Zuko

They seem to have ditched the built in shroud. Good. While it was cool it also limited your install options.


----------



## Anoxy

So I guess I never really gave it any thought...to drain my loop should I just let it passively come out through my drain port, or would I need to do the 24-pin trick again and use my pump to push it out?

I assume passive so I don't risk my pump running dry, but I just wanted to make sure.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I guess I never really gave it any thought...to drain my loop should I just let it passively come out through my drain port, or would I need to do the 24-pin trick again and use my pump to push it out?
> 
> I assume passive so I don't risk my pump running dry, but I just wanted to make sure.


Once you have the drain plug opened, open up a plug as high up in the loop as possible so it can allow air into the system, the coolant will drain out pretty quick after you open an air port. I would not use the pump.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Once you have the drain plug opened, open up a plug as high up in the loop as possible so it can allow air into the system, the coolant will drain out pretty quick after you open an air port. I would not use the pump.


What ''Jimhans1'' said.i normally just open one of the plugs on my res top and the flow speeds up....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I guess I never really gave it any thought...to drain my loop should I just let it passively come out through my drain port, or would I need to do the 24-pin trick again and use my pump to push it out?
> 
> I assume passive so I don't risk my pump running dry, but I just wanted to make sure.


If you have traditional tube,choose the longest run,cut itdown the middle,put one end on a bucket and the blow hard down the other.
It will empty your whole loop in a few seconds.


----------



## PC Upgrade

Project Blue Lagoon V2 pictures


----------



## mrinfinit3

Interesting how you mounted the Res... could we get better pics of that please?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So... i'm going to be stuffing a white STH-10 full of black hardware... Should I stick with the black tubing theme, or should I switch over to white tubing for better contrast? acrylic is currently out of the picture, as i'm trying to keep the money spending to a minimum. The only upgrade i'm _planning_ right now is to add another 480x60mm in P/P.
> 
> By the way... Is it even possible to run GPU's in parallel/serial/parallel or serial/parallel/serial?


Like Jim mentioned, you'd want to run the lower pair in parallel, with the top card in series with that first pair.

Each of the lower cards will see 1/2 the overall flow rate and the top card sees the full flow rate.

To the system, the effective restriction is 1.5 cards

The easiest way to do that would be to use the Quad semi-parallel terminal with a blanking plate:

Put the cards in slot positions: 7,5,1 with the blanking plate at slot 3.

If you're used to thinking in " GPU slots ", then cards in 4,3,1, blank on #2

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37220

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37708

Darlene


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> since im on the subject of fans, I'm just using the 1850 rpm or whatever the 1850 means fans that came with my original xspc kit, and some crappy cooler master regular old case fans for the front rad, what are the best fans for radiators? I'd like to buy 4.
> 
> Also what are good temps for 2x 290x in a loop?


For 20+ FPI I would go with GT-AP15s they are phenomenal fans. That or some noctuas.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> So about a 5-7C difference between all of the blocks. Not a huge difference, but I suppose if you are really tuning for every last ounce of OC it would matter. Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Exactly why I don't want to buy a top of the line block. The Raystorm at 50USD looks enticing.


Depends..... if you have a self imposed max temp limit of say 75C and you hit 75C with a 4.6 Ghz OC .... on that worse block it would be 82C.....meaning ya 4.6 would be a no go.

I look at it this way ..... if ya spending $500 - 2500 on all ya water cooling stuff, so ya can drop 10-25C off air cooling .... Even at the 25C (GPU), it costs ya $20 per degree..... So spending another $20 to get 1 more degree is right in line with what ya doing. Now looking at CPU, you're down at the 10C level...... so a $500 loop costs ya $50 per degree ..... getting even one more degree for $20 to my mind is the proverbial "no brainer" looking at it from a cost per degree of cooling level.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> What 30mm 360 rad should I buy? Is there other good options besides Alphacool ST30? I would pair it with XSPC RayStorm D5 Photon AX240 WaterCooling Kit.


You decide

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/

The Alphacools have the best numbers from 1000 rpm on up. And the screw protectors can be a rad-saver.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's how i've always understood it. The warm/hot water passes through the radiator, radiator's being cooled by fans, little water evaporates.


Water does evaporate in a closed loop, you oft see it recondensed as little droplets on the side of ya reservoir. But unless there is a leak, that water vapor can not escape the closed loop unless you have some type of air release. I have never added coolant to my system after the 1st week when all the fine lil tiny bubbles work their way out. There will be a certain amount of water absorption by the tubing but 1) that is easily addressed by using a low water absorption tubing like Tygon 2475 (0.01%) .... it will therefore absorb up to 0.1mm and 2) in my experience, I have not known it to continue once "saturation" is reached.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> since im on the subject of fans, I'm just using the 1850 rpm or whatever the 1850 means fans that came with my original xspc kit, and some crappy cooler master regular old case fans for the front rad, what are the best fans for radiators? I'd like to buy 4.
> 
> Also what are good temps for 2x 290x in a loop?


Hard to say, definitively..... Martisnliquidlab was the definitive source for this info but it's been a while since he's done any testing so his database doesn't include the latest designs. In recent months the Phanteks Sp140s have become the darling of 140mm rad users. Where in the past 120mm dominated air coolers due to the tight fin spacing, now 140mm hold 4 of the top 5 positions on air cooler testing. SCythe and Noiseblocker are about to release new 140mm lines also.

At 120mm, the Gentle Typhoons are a perennial fav but I'd suggest reviewing Martins Data as there haven't been very many 120mm new designs at all.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/

Be aware of what kind of noise the fan makes..... To my mind, if I can hear it, it's unacceptable. At 1850 you are definitely gonna hear it..... After 850 rpm on 140mm, you start to "notice" them ..... and when I say notice, I mean like "annoying". I'll put up with 1200 rom during stress testing bit when working or gaming, I don't wanna heat anything.

I have twin 780's running at a 25% OC with a 4770k .... At 1200 rpm, the 780s are at 39C under Furmark with an 8.4C Delta T. Under normal speed control curve, the temps rise to 44C with fans topping out at about 650 rpm. That's on a 280 + 420 with just 5 Phanteks fans in push. The 290x's won't OC that high as they are aggressively OC'd outta the box..... but even with 7-10% over the ultra setting my guess is ya might pull 325 watts .... I calculated / guessed 296 for the 780s.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I guess I never really gave it any thought...to drain my loop should I just let it passively come out through my drain port, or would I need to do the 24-pin trick again and use my pump to push it out?
> 
> I assume passive so I don't risk my pump running dry, but I just wanted to make sure.


Gravity works...... but you need to let air in in order not to get vapor lock from the negative pressure created by liquid leaving ..... something needs to rplace it and you don't want that to be from the drain ....thinl chug lug chug lug plop plop from pouting from milk / soda bottle. So remove, or at least loosen, on of the rad plugs (or res top plug) up top and let air get in and it will empty in less than a minute


----------



## Pebruska

I have a question about radiators. Which would be better, 280 as intake and no radiator at exhaust (140mm) or 240 radiator at intake and 120 rad exhaust? (or other way around)


----------



## 15goudreau

Well it's a surface area problem. So if you think about it that way if you add your numbers together which one gets you the higher value? 280 or 240+120? I think your answer should be pretty obvious


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> I have a question about radiators. Which would be better, 280 as intake and no radiator at exhaust (140mm) or 240 radiator at intake and 120 rad exhaust? (or other way around)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> would you guys have radiator fans sucking air in to a case or pushing it out through the rads? I have someone telling me to have it sucking in.... im not sure


Exhaust radiators use pre-heated inside the case air for cooling thereby greatly diminishing the effectiveness of the radiator.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Exhaust radiators use pre-heated inside the case air for cooling thereby greatly diminishing the effectiveness of the radiator.


If you have good intake fans that aren't running over components the radiator should still be hotter than the air inside the case and so the extra surface area should provide results that are favourable to only having a single radiator.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Bit off topic I know, but here's a photo of my rig.


Posts a picture in the water cooling _picture gallery._..states it's a bit off topic....not sure if serious...










Rig is looking good, hell of ya deal you got on that 2nd 690 right?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> I have a question about radiators. Which would be better, 280 as intake and no radiator at exhaust (140mm) or 240 radiator at intake and 120 rad exhaust? (or other way around)


Neither,have them running as intakes all round.


----------



## skupples

Thanks for the responses... I think i'll just use two crystal links between the bottom cards, with a single link between the middle & top card. Should do what I want it to.


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Neither,have them running as intakes all round.


Those would be my only fans in the system, except PSU. Would that be wise?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Posts a picture in the water cooling _picture gallery._..states it's a bit off topic....not sure if serious...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rig is looking good, hell of ya deal you got on that 2nd 690 right?


Well the topics of the day were screw threads and acrylic tube misdescriptions so my sarcasm was intentional.

Yes the 690 was on ebay used with the EK block and backplate installed and I got it for £430.


----------



## PCModderMike

Ahh yes sarcasm through text never really translates well. Figured you were messing around though, since most of the posts lately has just been discussion and no pics.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> If you have good intake fans that aren't running over components the radiator should still be hotter than the air inside the case and so the extra surface area should provide results that are favourable to only having a single radiator.


It is .... but

Ambient Air = 22C
Coolant Temp = 32C
Inside Air = 27C

Intake - Delta T is 10C
Exhaust - Delta Tis 5C

In this example the Intake Rad will be twice as effective as the exhaust rad.

I rounded the numbers to make the math easy but this is what I am measuring in my build ..... 5 rad fans and 5 case fans (all identical) But inside case air is about 4.6C warmer right now..... even with back panel (back of MoBo side) off.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Has anyone used food coloring as dye for their loop... I've seen people in other forum websites that have done it, and I was wondering if there are any downsides or ill effects from using it. As far as I've heard, it doesn't stain acrylic, doesn't clog up your blocks, and the obvious benefit is that it's cheaper than buying dye, and you can custom mix colors... What say you?


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Has anyone used food coloring as dye for their loop... I've seen people in other forum websites that have done it, and I was wondering if there are any downsides or ill effects from using it. As far as I've heard, it doesn't stain acrylic, doesn't clog up your blocks, and the obvious benefit is that it's cheaper than buying dye, and you can custom mix colors... What say you?


im no expert, but i wouldnt do that.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Has anyone used food coloring as dye for their loop... I've seen people in other forum websites that have done it, and I was wondering if there are any downsides or ill effects from using it. As far as I've heard, it doesn't stain acrylic, doesn't clog up your blocks, and the obvious benefit is that it's cheaper than buying dye, and you can custom mix colors... What say you?


Don't we spend enough on water cooling equipment to know that taking the cheap route isn't usually advisable







. I would get some mayhem dye and mess around with it.... it's 10 bucks a bottle but they will last you a long time if you are only dying water and not pastel.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Has anyone used food coloring as dye for their loop... I've seen people in other forum websites that have done it, and I was wondering if there are any downsides or ill effects from using it. As far as I've heard, it doesn't stain acrylic, doesn't clog up your blocks, and the obvious benefit is that it's cheaper than buying dye, and you can custom mix colors... What say you?


Edible dye is unstable and will break down quickly,avoid it.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Okay, I was just curious... The thought had crossed my mind, but my instinct said otherwise. I still have a little time before I start leak testing my loop. But even then, I'd be using distilled.

Here's one of the guys I saw using food coloring... He shows the bottle of what he uses a little more than half way down the page.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1655149


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Don't we spend enough on water cooling equipment to know that taking the cheap route isn't usually advisable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would get some mayhem dye and mess around with it.... it's 10 bucks a bottle but they will last you a long time if you are only dying water and not pastel.


Plus if it worked everyone would be doing it. The fact that they are not indicates that it doesn't work.


----------



## Seid Dark

Question about the pump. Would EK DCP 2.2 be enough for simple loop consisting of cpu and gpu blocks + two 240-360 rads? Case would be midtower H440. I'm after silence, D5 looks good but it's so expensive.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Question about the pump. Would EK DCP 2.2 be enough for simple loop consisting of cpu and gpu blocks + two 240-360 rads? Case would be midtower H440. I'm after silence, D5 looks good but it's so expensive.


not so sure about the 2.2, its pretty small. i used one to run just a CPU loop and it worked fine. i bet it would be ok for a GPU and CPU loop and a rad, but more than one block and more than one rad i dont know.

im using a 4.0 now, and it works great.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Question about the pump. Would EK DCP 2.2 be enough for simple loop consisting of cpu and gpu blocks + two 240-360 rads? Case would be midtower H440. I'm after silence, D5 looks good but it's so expensive.


The EK DCP 2.2 looks identical to the Phobya 220 pump I have been running for 14 months. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=phobya+220+pump&qpvt=phobya+220+pump&FORM=IGRE
It currently services an XSPC Raystorm, 2 X GTX 690's, a Phobya 150 reservoir and 2 rads, a 360 and a Phobya Xtreme 200. It runs without any heat and virtually no noise.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> The EK DCP 2.2 looks identical to the Phobya 220 pump I have been running for 14 months. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=phobya+220+pump&qpvt=phobya+220+pump&FORM=IGRE
> It currently services an XSPC Raystorm, 2 X GTX 690's, a Phobya 150 reservoir and 2 rads, a 360 and a Phobya Xtreme 200. It runs without any heat and virtually no noise.


Sounds great. And you have no problems with temps?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Sounds great. And you have no problems with temps?


None at all. It runs at 2100 RPM off a Lamptron FC5 V2 fan controller and everything is kept nice and cool. Before I bought it - it was about £34 I think - I read lots of reviews of different pumps and it appears the Phobya pumps are available in 220, 260 and 400 variants but apparently the 260 cannot be dismantled so if it has a fault you are screwed. Obviously if I upgrade the pump I will go for something more powerful.


----------



## gponcho

Does anyone know if using ICE DRAGON coolant will it stain the acrylic tubing?

Thanks


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Does anyone know if using ICE DRAGON coolant will it stain the acrylic tubing?
> 
> Thanks


No it won't. It will stain nickel if not diluted. It can be polished off by hand though.


----------



## stickg1

How do I make my Bitspower Shining Silver shiny again? I can tell they're starting to dull from being handled so many times.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> Project Blue Lagoon V2 pictures


Very nice. Love the blue. Mayhem's? Which?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> How do I make my Bitspower Shining Silver shiny again? I can tell they're starting to dull from being handled so many times.


Something like this? Or maybe even just a terry cloth would work, like from the car detailing aisle.

http://www.amazon.com/Tarnish-Free-Silver-Cloth-Anti-tarnish/dp/B001OQU0YU


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Very nice. Love the blue. Mayhem's? Which?
> Something like this? Or maybe even just a terry cloth would work, like from the car detailing aisle.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Tarnish-Free-Silver-Cloth-Anti-tarnish/dp/B001OQU0YU


You can also try applying a little Tarn X to clean cloth or shop towel. It works good at polishing metals as well. Just make sure you follow the instructions on how to properly apply it.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> How do I make my Bitspower Shining Silver shiny again? I can tell they're starting to dull from being handled so many times.


This is my favorite metal polish - http://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-liquid/


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Hard to say, definitively..... Martisnliquidlab was the definitive source for this info but it's been a while since he's done any testing so his database doesn't include the latest designs. In recent months the Phanteks Sp140s have become the darling of 140mm rad users. Where in the past 120mm dominated air coolers due to the tight fin spacing, now 140mm hold 4 of the top 5 positions on air cooler testing. SCythe and Noiseblocker are about to release new 140mm lines also.
> 
> At 120mm, the Gentle Typhoons are a perennial fav but I'd suggest reviewing Martins Data as there haven't been very many 120mm new designs at all.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/
> 
> Be aware of what kind of noise the fan makes..... To my mind, if I can hear it, it's unacceptable. At 1850 you are definitely gonna hear it..... After 850 rpm on 140mm, you start to "notice" them ..... and when I say notice, I mean like "annoying". I'll put up with 1200 rom during stress testing bit when working or gaming, I don't wanna heat anything.
> 
> I have twin 780's running at a 25% OC with a 4770k .... At 1200 rpm, the 780s are at 39C under Furmark with an 8.4C Delta T. Under normal speed control curve, the temps rise to 44C with fans topping out at about 650 rpm. That's on a 280 + 420 with just 5 Phanteks fans in push. The 290x's won't OC that high as they are aggressively OC'd outta the box..... but even with 7-10% over the ultra setting my guess is ya might pull 325 watts .... I calculated / guessed 296 for the 780s.
> Gravity works...... but you need to let air in in order not to get vapor lock from the negative pressure created by liquid leaving ..... something needs to rplace it and you don't want that to be from the drain ....thinl chug lug chug lug plop plop from pouting from milk / soda bottle. So remove, or at least loosen, on of the rad plugs (or res top plug) up top and let air get in and it will empty in less than a minute


I don't think I can run 140mm fans because I have a 240mm rad, so that is 2x 120mm fans ?


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't think I can run 140mm fans because I have a 240mm rad, so that is 2x 120mm fans ?


Correct


----------



## HardwareDecoder

okay so knowing I can only buy 120mm fans, which ones provide the very best cooling for a reasonable price? I don't want super loud, but with my noise cancelling g430 headset I doubt ill hear them anyway.


----------



## Iniura

Guys would it be ok to place my temp sensor inside the IN port of the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2, I am going to use the other sides IN and OUT ports as inlet and outlet for the reservoir?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Guys would it be ok to place my temp sensor inside the IN port of the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2, I am going to use the other sides IN and OUT ports as inlet and outlet for the reservoir?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I wouldn't.

You want a temp sensor in an area where the coolant flows past it constantly.

Putting it in an area as you mention probably will be like a rather dead space with stagnant coolant.

An inline sensor on the port you're using would be much better. . .

Or put it in the center "in" port.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Guys would it be ok to place my temp sensor inside the IN port of the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2, I am going to use the other sides IN and OUT ports as inlet and outlet for the reservoir?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't know for certain, but just looking at how far that thing extends inside the fitting, I'm going to venture that that might not be a good idea. Perhaps someone here does know for sure.

I would suggest instead that you mount it in a different otherwise unused port, like in a rad maybe? Or get a pass-thru temp sensor instead of a plug and mount it anywhere you have tubing attached to anything.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> okay so knowing I can only buy 120mm fans, which ones provide the very best cooling for a reasonable price? I don't want super loud, but with my noise cancelling g430 headset I doubt ill hear them anyway.


These are generally regarded as the best rad fans in terms of performance/noise/static pressure and they never wear out. I've had four running on my server for 712 days 24/7 right now and they look and sound like they are new.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1850_RPM_D1225C12B5AP-15_Hot_Item_.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> okay so knowing I can only buy 120mm fans, which ones provide the very best cooling for a reasonable price? I don't want super loud, but with my noise cancelling g430 headset I doubt ill hear them anyway.


Gentle Typhoons,SP120's,Nioseblocker....all good fans.
Recently,I have been a fan of Alpenfohn fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Guys would it be ok to place my temp sensor inside the IN port of the Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2, I am going to use the other sides IN and OUT ports as inlet and outlet for the reservoir?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't.
> 
> You want a temp sensor in an area where the coolant flows past it constantly.
> 
> Putting it in an area as you mention probably will be like a rather dead space with stagnant coolant.
> 
> An inline sensor on the port you're using would be much better. . .
> 
> Or put it in the center "in" port.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I have done this,the temp was read correctly so dont worry ,there isnt really a stagnant spot in a loop enough to upset temp reading.


----------



## armageddong7

My Red Phoenix Update








Asus Maximus Extreme IV
Intel i7 4770k OC @ 4.7Ghz
Corsair Dominator GT 16 GB @ 2200Mhz
2x Asus GeForce GTX 770 DirectCu II OC, 2 WAY SLI


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Gentle Typhoons,SP120's,Nioseblocker....all good fans.
> Recently,I have been a fan of Alpenfohn fans.
> I have done this,the temp was read correctly so dont worry ,there isnt really a stagnant spot in a loop enough to upset temp reading.


whats the difference between SP120 and AF120? I'm about to buy 2 sets of these.

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Edition-CO-9050008-WW/dp/B007RESFYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394141052&sr=8-1&keywords=sp120

gentle typhoons are too much for me, $20 a pop is outrageous for a fan imo.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> whats the difference between SP120 and AF120? I'm about to buy 2 sets of these.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Edition-CO-9050008-WW/dp/B007RESFYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394141052&sr=8-1&keywords=sp120
> 
> gentle typhoons are too much for me, $20 a pop is outrageous for a fan imo.


SP = static pressure. Better suited for rads. AF is meant to be a case fan.

Those are pretty good, be prepared that they're gonna be loud though. There's Quiet Editions too.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> SP = static pressure. Better suited for rads. AF is meant to be a case fan.
> 
> Those are pretty good, be prepared that they're gonna be loud though. There's Quiet Editions too.


how much worse cooling do the quiet edition provide? I don't want a loud computer, but I don't want to upgrade fans if they won't give any better cooling.

hmm....

•Fan Size 120mm x 25mm
•Noise (dBA) 35 dBA
•Airflow (CFM) 62.74 CFM
•Static Pressure (mm/H2O) 3.1 mm/H2O
•2350 rpm
•2 Year Warranty
•Power Draw (@ +12V) .18A
•Three colored rings in red, blue, and white.

vs:

•Fan Size 120mm x 25mm
•Noise (dBA) 23 dBA
•Airflow (CFM) 37.85 CFM
•Static Pressure (mm/H2O) 1.29 mm/H2O
•1450 rpm
•2 Year Warranty
•Power Draw (@ +12V) .08A
•Three colored rings in red, blue, and white

that seems like a lot less cooling performance...


----------



## kizwan

You can get SP120 high performance edition fans, connect them to a fan controller & run them at 1200RPM.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You can get SP120 high performance edition fans, connect them to a fan controller & run them at 1200RPM.


that's a good idea, I don't have a 5.25" bay anymore though cause my res wouldn't fit with it. My case does have an integrated fan controller w/ 5, 12 and 7v though...


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You can get SP120 high performance edition fans, connect them to a fan controller & run them at 1200RPM.


^^^^^^ This....Better to get the SP's and turn them down,rather than the quiet edition and not being able to turn them up if needs be....


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Okay ordering 2x 2 pack of the sp120 thanks peeps


----------



## HardwareDecoder

my fan controller built in to my case is only 3 spots, is there a problem with using something like this so I can run 4 fans off it at 5 7 or 12v

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pin-to-4-x-3-Pin-Computer-Case-Fan-Power-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter-Cable-/161224043374?pt=US_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item2589b3ab6e?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> my fan controller built in to my case is only 3 spots, is there a problem with using something like this so I can run 4 fans off it at 5 7 or 12v
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pin-to-4-x-3-Pin-Computer-Case-Fan-Power-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter-Cable-/161224043374?pt=US_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item2589b3ab6e?


You should be able to so long as the fan hub is able to handle the extra load. From my experience though most built-in case fan hubs aren't very well made.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You should be able to so long as the fan hub is able to handle the extra load. From my experience though most built-in case fan hubs aren't very well made.


hmm true, technically it is designed for 3 fans, so a fourth one might be an issue?

I'd just buy a fan controller but like I said I have no 5.25" bay anymore :-( the res is just barely too tall.


----------



## typercivic93

New guy to the forums. Used many threads here to research my latest 750D Build. So I figured I would join up and would like to share the outcome of the latest build.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *typercivic93*
> 
> New guy to the forums. Used many threads here to research my latest 750D Build. So I figured I would join up and would like to share the outcome of the latest build


Awesome. Welcome to the club!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *typercivic93*
> 
> New guy to the forums. Used many threads here to research my latest 750D Build. So I figured I would join up and would like to share the outcome of the latest build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> hmm true, technically it is designed for 3 fans, so a fourth one might be an issue?
> 
> I'd just buy a fan controller but like I said I have no 5.25" bay anymore :-( the res is just barely too tall.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You could connect one or two fans to the motherboard, my old Asus Z68 board could control 3-pin fans when connected to "chassis fan 1" connector. I've even tried connecting 3 AF140 Quiet Edition fans to the same connector with splitter, it worked without problems (depends on a fan amperage, AF140 doesn't consume much).


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Nice job and welcome.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *typercivic93*
> 
> New guy to the forums. Used many threads here to research my latest 750D Build. So I figured I would join up and would like to share the outcome of the latest build.


Very nice, you packed a lot of rad in there.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't know for certain, but just looking at how far that thing extends inside the fitting, I'm going to venture that that might not be a good idea. Perhaps someone here does know for sure.
> 
> I would suggest instead that you mount it in a different otherwise unused port, like in a rad maybe? Or get a pass-thru temp sensor instead of a plug and mount it anywhere you have tubing attached to anything.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I wouldn't.
> 
> You want a temp sensor in an area where the coolant flows past it constantly.
> 
> Putting it in an area as you mention probably will be like a rather dead space with stagnant coolant.
> 
> An inline sensor on the port you're using would be much better. . .
> 
> Or put it in the center "in" port.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Gentle Typhoons,SP120's,Nioseblocker....all good fans.
> Recently,I have been a fan of Alpenfohn fans.
> I have done this,the temp was read correctly so dont worry ,there isnt really a stagnant spot in a loop enough to upset temp reading.


Thnx guys and Darlene, and wow luckily I can fit it there, I don't have any place in my loop to put it somewhere else, the two in and outlets on the top of the Mod Top V2 won't work because there will be a reservoir fitted on top of the V2. Also I don't have any unused ports on any of my radiators.


----------



## ShortySmalls

My RX360 thats like 6 years old finally started to leak, so i had to redo my loop

Plan to replace that top UT30 360mm with another UT60 480 or, buy a 480 monsta for the bottom and slap the UT60 on top, though my temps with this setup are really pretty good.


----------



## VSG

I think I paid more attention to that poster in there









But seriously, that 900D looks so empty in there!


----------



## Puunh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think I paid more attention to that poster in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, that 900D looks so empty in there!


I think it looks fine.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think I paid more attention to that poster in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, that 900D looks so empty in there!


I thought that at first, but i have grown to like it. If i could find a tube res i really liked in stock and reasonable price, i would get one to fill that open area. I really like the frozenQ res's but so darn expensive.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> I thought that at first, but i have grown to like it. If i could find a tube res i really liked in stock and reasonable price, i would get one to fill that open area. I really like the frozenQ res's but so darn expensive.


There is the XSPC Photon Res if you want built in res lighting. It's kind of similar to a Frozen-Q Fusion, but at about $25 cheap. It's a lot like the Frozen-Q Reactor Core Res

I do see the Fusion Res going on eBay pretty cheap sometimes if you don't mind used


----------



## typercivic93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Very nice, you packed a lot of rad in there.


Yeah, eventually here soon gonna go 3 way SLI on the 770s (for kicks), so i figured id go ahead and put the rad space in there for it. LOL. was fun.


----------



## skupples

900D needs a back panel... In fact, i wonder if i'll be able to get a bit more out of my 900D when it comes time to sell it because of the acrylic motherboard shroud.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 900D needs a back panel... In fact, i wonder if i'll be able to get a bit more out of my 900D when it comes time to sell it because of the acrylic motherboard shroud.


Do u have a picture of that? LIke u mean your 900D has a clear motherboard tray?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I'd like to see that too Skup...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Do u have a picture of that? LIke u mean your 900D has a clear motherboard tray?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, I'd like to see that too Skup...


It's matte black.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's matte black.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hmm, i like the bottom panel thing, i was thinking of doing that for mine to block the bottom area with the psu and rad off from the top area, but whats the point of the mobo tray like that? I would only even want the bottom thing if i could get it to match the color/texture of the rest of the inside.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> hmm, i like the bottom panel thing, i was thinking of doing that for mine to block the bottom area with the psu and rad off from the top area, but whats the point of the mobo tray like that? I would only even want the bottom thing if i could get it to match the color/texture of the rest of the inside.


the tray is purely aesthetic. The grommets are an eyesore for many people, including my self.

God damn man! PPC is out of AP-15's, and FCPU (typical) wants 20$ a piece, PPC only wants 17 a piece.

Anyone have recommendations on White tubing? LRT as usual?

Oh one other question... Opinion based... Iv'e been thinking about doing the motherboard piping with acrylic since 1/2 x 3/4 gets messy REALLY quick in tight spaces... Opinions on doing this? Do y'all think it would look strange to have all the small straight piping with fat white tubing everywhere else?


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the tray is purely aesthetic. The grommets are an eyesore for many people, including my self.
> 
> God damn man! PPC is out of AP-15's, and FCPU (typical) wants 20$ a piece, PPC only wants 17 a piece.
> 
> Anyone have recommendations on White tubing? LRT as usual?


Ahh, I do agree it looks cool (my opinion only it would look better if it was the same texture and color as the stock TBH) i don't mind the grommets to much, looks alot better then just big holes some previous cases ive had.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Ahh, I do agree it looks cool (my opinion only it would look better if it was the same texture and color as the stock TBH) i don't mind the grommets to much, looks alot better then just big holes some previous cases ive had.


you would be surprised how much of a PITA it is to match up matte acrylic to the case. The closest we got was from asking ColdZero what they use, but they would only tell us the manufacturer, and said manufacturer stocks some 1,000+ styles of Acrylic... So instead Lebestia made his own matte finish via oil rubbing. It's much closer in person than with the camera. The stock finish is closer to satin, while this is a bit more matte.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the tray is purely aesthetic. The grommets are an eyesore for many people, including my self.
> 
> God damn man! PPC is out of AP-15's, and FCPU (typical) wants 20$ a piece, PPC only wants 17 a piece.
> 
> Anyone have recommendations on White tubing? LRT as usual?
> 
> Oh one other question... Opinion based... Iv'e been thinking about doing the motherboard piping with acrylic since 1/2 x 3/4 gets messy REALLY quick in tight spaces... Opinions on doing this? Do y'all think it would look strange to have all the small straight piping with fat white tubing everywhere else?


Come on skupples,go all or nothing at all,you know you want....


----------



## skupples

My restraint is forcing me to try to get the case swap done @ as low a budget as possible. The shopping cart is already @ 350$, and thats w/o any of the new wiring i'll probably need, and some new fittings/extensions. The swap, including the case is going to be a 1,000$ hole.


----------



## morencyam

If you go that route and don't go full acrylic I would just use acrylic where it can be seen and soft tubing where hidden


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My restraint is forcing me to try to get the case swap done @ as low a budget as possible. The shopping cart is already @ 350$, and thats w/o any of the new wiring i'll probably need, and some new fittings/extensions. The swap, including the case is going to be a 1,000$ hole.


WOW,that's a good sum right there....However i would just get it done in one go,because i know you will eventually go all hard tubes....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> WOW,that's a good sum right there....However i would just get it done in one go,because i know you will eventually go all hard tubes....


Yeah... Case was 600$, but it's a good 800$+ worth of caselabs hardware, so it's a pretty good deal. The damned EK DDC heatsink kits are 25$ each, new UT60 480 is 120$, 4 more typhoons is 80$... Adds up quick!

There isn't really much in the way of hidden tubing with this build since i'm only using 3x 480's in it. I'm just going to have to look @ it once I have it all in before I decide how to pipe it. I have a feeling using 1/2 x 3/4 on the motherboard blocks is going to look REALLY crowded though.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah... Case was 600$, but it's a good 800$+ worth of caselabs hardware, so it's a pretty good deal. The damned EK DDC heatsink kits are 25$ each, new UT60 480 is 120$, 4 more typhoons is 80$... Adds up quick!
> 
> There isn't really much in the way of hidden tubing with this build since i'm only using 3x 480's in it. I'm just going to have to look @ it once I have it all in before I decide how to pipe it. I have a feeling using 1/2 x 3/4 on the motherboard blocks is going to look REALLY crowded though.


Lol, that's why, when I used flex tubing, I preferred the 7/16x5/8 tubing. Nowadays, it's all rigid tube for my systems.


----------



## GaMbi2004

@skupples My loop is fare from as complicated as you, but I recently changed my visible tubes for acrylic.. kept soft tubes in the basement for the pump and the external radiator QDCs

In the lower port of my radiators, you can see my 90 degrees, leading to soft tubing that goes to the basement.
Works well and all visible tubes are now acrylic


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, that's why, when I used flex tubing, I preferred the 7/16x5/8 tubing. Nowadays, it's all rigid tube for my systems.












Iv'e been stockpiling these 1/2 x 3/4 fittings for almost two years now. I think I went this route because every other size was sold out @ the time of ordering & I was too impatient to wait/look other places. It might not be too bad if I do straight runs, but I think the traditional big loops would look terrible with this size tubing.

My only other concern is returning to LRT, I had allot of buildup the last time I used it. Their white tubing is so sexy though! White case, black parts, white tubing, white/clear res caps. It should contrast well. PSU cables will likely remain all black for the time being though. I'm trying to get it put back together before the end of april, and my build time is pretty limited. Only 1-2 hours a day.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @skupples My loop is fare from as complicated as you, but I recently changed my visible tubes for acrylic.. kept soft tubes in the basement for the pump and the external radiator QDCs
> 
> In the lower port of my radiators, you can see my 90 degrees, leading to soft tubing that goes to the basement.
> Works well and all visible tubes are now acrylic


it is imperative you disclose to me as to how you have achieved the RED DOMINATOR LIGHTBARS!

REEDDD


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Iv'e been stockpiling these 1/2 x 3/4 fittings for almost two years now. I think I went this route because every other size was sold out @ the time of ordering & I was too impatient to wait/look other places. It might not be too bad if I do straight runs, but I think the traditional big loops would look terrible with this size tubing.
> 
> My only other concern is returning to LRT, I had allot of buildup the last time I used it. Their white tubing is so sexy though! White case, black parts, white tubing, white/clear res caps. It should contrast well. PSU cables will likely remain all black for the time being though. I'm trying to get it put back together before the end of april, and my build time is pretty limited. Only 1-2 hours a day.


Just stick to regular tubing since you already have all the fittings. You can get the mobo hooked up, just avoid connections that are too close to each other, unless there is no choice. Acrylic is nice, but like you said, getting all the fittings and tubing, plus tools add up to your already big bill.


----------



## skupples

so... PPC thinks that the Gentle Typhoon is actually discontinued... Seems we are back @ it again.



Well... Just got 8 more from FCPU's @ 20$ a piece just in case, as it seems yet again no one knows what the hell is going on.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> it is imperative you disclose to me as to how you have achieved the RED DOMINATOR LIGHTBARS!
> 
> REEDDD










Info in my build log..


I know that corsair had planed a red lens, but it turned out pink








I took my white lenses and painted them red on both sides, also the plastic bar from the original light bar.. dont know if I could have left that blank for a bit brighter outcome, but its plenty bright for what I wanted









Hope that helps.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so... PPC thinks that the Gentle Typhoon is actually discontinued... Seems we are back @ it again.


That's old news. Yes, the *Scythe branded* GT's are discontinued, just waiting for Nidec to find a new reseller for them.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's old news. Yes, the *Scythe branded* GT's are discontinued, just waiting for Nidec to find a new reseller for them.


Right, i'm aware Scythe is no longer carrying the name, but iv'e not seen anywhere officially state that Nidec is going to continue pumping them out.

either way, mixing fans hurts my ears, i'm paying the 20$ premium.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so... PPC thinks that the Gentle Typhoon is actually discontinued... Seems we are back @ it again.


believe me, i was in your situation 2 weeks ago. i had no choice but to bite frozens asking price. we don't know when nidec will be making more and i can't afford to wait. also, there was someone who was selling 3 sleeved gt-ap15's in the market place for a great price and i snatched it up







(sorry)


----------



## subtec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's old news. Yes, the *Scythe branded* GT's are discontinued, just waiting for Nidec to find a new reseller for them.


Is that even likely to happen? As far as I'm aware, they're an industrial supplier and don't even get out of bed for less than 100k units (made that number up, but you get the picture).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> believe me, i was in your situation 2 weeks ago. i had no choice but to bite frozens asking price. we don't know when nidec will be making more and i can't afford to wait. also, there was someone who was selling 3 sleeved gt-ap15's in the market place for a great price and i snatched it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry)


Sigh, mixing fans just sounds terrible, even when you match RPM's. I should have enough to fulfill any build I do for the next 5 years after this order. This brings me up to ~30 I believe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subtec*
> 
> Is that even likely to happen? As far as I'm aware, they're an industrial supplier and don't even get out of bed for less than 100k units (made that number up, but you get the picture).


Like I said. I have not seen any official statement that Nidec has found a new supplier for these fans. How ever, they are one of the most popular fans EVER made, seems they are throwing away a good thing if they don't bring them back.


----------



## Killa Cam

open up an ad in the marketplace. i know theres a lot of peeps here who stocked up on ap15's. im sure they could sell you some at a fair price.


----------



## Anoxy

Is the Swiftech MCP655 not a standard D5 pump? I ask because I got the Aquacomputer Aqualis pump adapter for D5 pumps and the screw holes do not line up....

EDIT: oh god I'm a moron. It's because part of my old res was still attached to the pump


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is the Swiftech MCP655 not a standard D5 pump? I ask because I got the Aquacomputer Aqualis pump adapter for D5 pumps and the screw holes do not line up....


There shouldn't be any screw holes on a D5/MCP655 pump, take a pic of what you are referring to, I have an aqualis here that's not in use that I can refer to also.


----------



## Angrychair

yeah I need 1 AP-15.

I have 1, need 3. Ordered 3 from sidewinderpc. USPS lost the package, I'm so freaking mad right now, because now they are out. They are sending me the only one they could find, so I'm still short 1.

unbelievably hating USPS.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I think the GTs will be back. I don't think they will be back anytime soon however. So I stocked up on 22 AP-14s.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I think the GTs will be back. I don't think they will be back anytime soon however. So I stocked up on 22 AP-14s.


I have 3 14's pushing on my RX360 cooling just my cpu and mosfets, temps are great. They are practically silent.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> hmm, i like the bottom panel thing, i was thinking of doing that for mine to block the bottom area with the psu and rad off from the top area, but whats the point of the mobo tray like that? I would only even want the bottom thing if i could get it to match the color/texture of the rest of the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> the tray is purely aesthetic. The grommets are an eyesore for many people, including my self.
> 
> God damn man! PPC is out of AP-15's, and FCPU (typical) wants 20$ a piece, PPC only wants 17 a piece.
> 
> Anyone have recommendations on White tubing? LRT as usual?
> 
> Oh one other question... Opinion based... Iv'e been thinking about doing the motherboard piping with acrylic since 1/2 x 3/4 gets messy REALLY quick in tight spaces... Opinions on doing this? Do y'all think it would look strange to have all the small straight piping with fat white tubing everywhere else?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, that's why, when I used flex tubing, I preferred the 7/16x5/8 tubing. Nowadays, it's all rigid tube for my systems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Iv'e been stockpiling these 1/2 x 3/4 fittings for almost two years now. I think I went this route because every other size was sold out @ the time of ordering & I was too impatient to wait/look other places. It might not be too bad if I do straight runs, but I think the traditional big loops would look terrible with this size tubing.
> 
> My only other concern is returning to LRT, I had allot of buildup the last time I used it. Their white tubing is so sexy though! White case, black parts, white tubing, white/clear res caps. It should contrast well. PSU cables will likely remain all black for the time being though. I'm trying to get it put back together before the end of april, and my build time is pretty limited. Only 1-2 hours a day.
Click to expand...

When the Switch 810 first came out, I did a RIVE build in it, and that was before acrylic, so it was all 1/2 X 3/4.

With some planning, you can make it work pretty well, even with the RAM blocks.



But once you can compare it nearly side by side to an acrylic based plumbing job, it really is pretty much a no brainer . . .

I'll be redoing the 810 in acrylic once the Stretch is done for sure:



Darlene


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Right, i'm aware Scythe is no longer carrying the name, but iv'e not seen anywhere officially state that Nidec is going to continue pumping them out.


They aren't going to discontinue them though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subtec*
> 
> Is that even likely to happen? As far as I'm aware, they're an industrial supplier and don't even get out of bed for less than 100k units (made that number up, but you get the picture).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Like I said. I have not seen any official statement that Nidec has found a new supplier for these fans. How ever, they are one of the most popular fans EVER made, seems they are throwing away a good thing if they don't bring them back.


Once the Scythe branded stock runs completely dry, I hope that someone take a gamble on this. I thought before that Phobya might, but that would be direct competition to their red and blue NB rebranded fans.


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> it is imperative you disclose to me as to how you have achieved the RED DOMINATOR LIGHTBARS!
> 
> REEDDD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Info in my build log..
> 
> 
> I know that corsair had planed a red lens, but it turned out pink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took my white lenses and painted them red on both sides, also the plastic bar from the original light bar.. dont know if I could have left that blank for a bit brighter outcome, but its plenty bright for what I wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

THANKS YOU SIRS

Tapp'n from the G2


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

This is my Phantom 630 custom loop build, first modified build, and first loop ever.

Can I please get some thoughts?

I need to paint where the HDD and 5.25 bays were, but I plan to do that as soon as I move next year, as I will tear it down for shipping purposes.

I did a build Log... And then proceeded to talk to myself, minus one coworker popping in... Can I please get ideas of where I could mount a backup pump?I was thinking just using the stock MCP35X above the classifieds.


----------



## skupples

No one can ever bring forth evidence of nidec selling them once stock runs dry/in the future. It all seems to be speculation. As we gave all learned over the past 5 years hope =/= guaranteed success.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> This is my Phantom 630 custom loop build, first modified build, and first loop ever.
> 
> Can I please get some thoughts?
> 
> I need to paint where the HDD and 5.25 bays were, but I plan to do that as soon as I move next year, as I will tear it down for shipping purposes.
> 
> I did a build Log... And then proceeded to talk to myself, minus one coworker popping in... Can I please get ideas of where I could mount a backup pump?I was thinking just using the stock MCP35X above the classifieds.


Good job! I think you could clean up and shorten a lot of those runs using some angled fittings. In particular the tube that runs in front of the reservoir bugs me a lot. It's purely aesthetic and as a result highly subjective and might not matter to you at all... but a bunch of 90deg fittings would clean it up a lot.

As for the backup pump... you could put it where you plan but the general rule of thumb is to have your pumps after the res. Mostly this is to make filling your loop easier and prevent them from running dry so with a backup it's less critical but for aesthetics I'd either place it in the top right and between the CPU->front rad run or i'd place it after your pump/res using one of those fan to pump mount adapters.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @skupples My loop is fare from as complicated as you, but I recently changed my visible tubes for acrylic.. kept soft tubes in the basement for the pump and the external radiator QDCs
> 
> In the lower port of my radiators, you can see my 90 degrees, leading to soft tubing that goes to the basement.
> Works well and all visible tubes are now acrylic


Love the backplate! Where'd you get it done?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aemonn*
> 
> Good job! I think you could clean up and shorten a lot of those runs using some angled fittings. In particular the tube that runs in front of the reservoir bugs me a lot. It's purely aesthetic and as a result highly subjective and might not matter to you at all... but a bunch of 90deg fittings would clean it up a lot.


Thank you. I had 45s on the res feed line coming from the front rad, but I was worried about pressure build up, and head pressure, as I don't have a second pump in the system. I may pull it apart so that I can add some fittings, as I do have 4 or 5 90s and a few more 45s left.

I ended up getting 4 of the smooth angle 45s from Frozen CPU, and the others we the angles with EK logo... I don't like those at all.

Being as I am running 4 rads and one pump, I think I will stick with smooth flow lines for now, and once I figure out how, and where, to mount the second pump, I will drop the fittings in and clean up the rest of the lines.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @skupples My loop is fare from as complicated as you, but I recently changed my visible tubes for acrylic.. kept soft tubes in the basement for the pump and the external radiator QDCs
> 
> In the lower port of my radiators, you can see my 90 degrees, leading to soft tubing that goes to the basement.
> 
> Works well and all visible tubes are now acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the backplate! Where'd you get it done?
Click to expand...

I would hazard a guess and say Ricardo did it.
You can mail him at Coldzero.eu


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Bitspower Candyland.






Is that shining silver or black
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would hazard a guess and say Ricardo did it.
> You can mail him at Coldzero.eu


I could swear I thought he said somewhere that its a sticker. Don't kill me if i'm wrong.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Ladies and Gentlemen... We are Living and Breathing quietly. I can hear a few air bubbles, and I am working on them, but they seem to be in the 120mm in the back. Going to run a few benchmarks and see what happens.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> Ladies and Gentlemen... We are Living and Breathing quietly. I can hear a few air bubbles, and I am working on them, but they seem to be in the 120mm in the back. Going to run a few benchmarks and see what happens.


I ran mine and opened my fill ports and lightly shook the tower and tilted to allow the bubbles to flow out to cure my gurgling/waterfall sound (other than my res having the water fall effect that actually allowed air bubbles back into the loop (AquaComputer 5.25 pro res)) but a lot should work their way out eventually.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I ran mine and opened my fill ports and lightly shook the tower and tilted to allow the bubbles to flow out to cure my gurgling/waterfall sound (other than my res having the water fall effect that actually allowed air bubbles back into the loop (AquaComputer 5.25 pro res)) but a lot should work their way out eventually.


Compared to the build in my signature, this thing is silent. I have the fans ramped up, and it may be 30% of the noise my original build was. I am loving the Noctua fans.


----------



## skupples

PPC sent me back an email saying that haven't heard anything about Nidec continuing the Gentle Typhoon line with anyone else. Then they plugged the G-flex... No thx!


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Is that shining silver or black


Shining silver all the way.


----------



## skupples

So, does Nidec hold both patents for the fan blade design & the servo? Or just the servo.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, does Nidec hold both patents for the fan blade design & the servo? Or just the servo.


Nidec holds ALL the patents and rights to the GT series fans. I'll have to look for it again, but I know I posted their statement to the fact in one of my posts in the past.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Right, i'm aware Scythe is no longer carrying the name, but iv'e not seen anywhere officially state that Nidec is going to continue pumping them out.
> 
> either way, mixing fans hurts my ears, i'm paying the 20$ premium.
> 
> 
> 
> They aren't going to discontinue them though.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the Scythe branded stock runs completely dry, I hope that someone take a gamble on this. I thought before that Phobya might, but that would be direct competition to their red and blue NB rebranded fans.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, does Nidec hold both patents for the fan blade design & the servo? Or just the servo.


"Servo" is part of Nidec's name ( http://www.nidec-servo.com/en/ ). Perhaps it's some sort of subsidiary / partnership with Nidec, or whatever, but it's not anything specific to do with a fan.

As Wisk pointed out (see it all as part of the discussion here in the later pages of the thread) Nidec owns the rights to the design, and they own the rights to the Gentle Typhoon brand name, and they have specifically said that they plan to keep on making the fans.

The initial email from Scythe's Hank Peng to FCPU, that FCPU posted on their Facebook page is what started all the hoopla. The message *falsely* said that "_Scythe reserves the right to the name Gentle Typhoon. That means Nidec can't sell the product to anybody with our label, our package, our brand and etc. attached to it._". Scythe has since admitted that what Hank Peng wrote was not correct and that "_since we won't be continuing our collaboration with Nidec in the future, later GT fans to be produced will not have the Scythe name on it_".

Sooo, we're all just waiting now to see when/where/how the new, non-Scythe Gentle Typhoons are going to start showing up at the usual places. There's definitely a bit of a shortage of them at the moment, so it's not the best time to buy them, but all signs seem to point to the likelihood that our Gentle Typhoons will be back before long just without Scythe's name attached to them.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Found this site for M3 bolts for fans or rads all colors & sizes....http://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium/aluminium-bolts-socket-cap.html


Please add here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1439800/radiator-screws-how-come-we-only-get-half


----------



## skupples

You must have missed the part where I said it's interesting that PPC & FCPU both respond that they know nothing about Nidec carrying on the brand. That was the entire point of the re-hash.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Thank you. I had 45s on the res feed line coming from the front rad, but I was worried about pressure build up, and head pressure, as I don't have a second pump in the system. I may pull it apart so that I can add some fittings, as I do have 4 or 5 90s and a few more 45s left.
> 
> I ended up getting 4 of the smooth angle 45s from Frozen CPU, and the others we the angles with EK logo... I don't like those at all.
> 
> Being as I am running 4 rads and one pump, I think I will stick with smooth flow lines for now, and once I figure out how, and where, to mount the second pump, I will drop the fittings in and clean up the rest of the lines.


If you haven't read the write up Martin did on Martin's Liquid Lab regarding fittings and flow rate you may find it very interesting. Good luck with the second pump!

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You must have missed the part where I said it's interesting that PPC & FCPU both respond that they know nothing about Nidec carrying on the brand. That was the entire point of the re-hash.


I didn't miss it.

Scythe was just the distributor for Nidec Servo, so they handled all marketing and delivery of the fans to retailers. Since all retailers only dealt with Scythe to get their Gentle Typhoons, and thanks to FCPU's posting of their correspondence with Scythe, it's a known fact that Scythe was sending exaggerated/false doom & gloom messages to all their customers, it shouldn't be all that surprising that places like FCPU or PPCs fell for their line of bull-oney.

Nidec Servo doesn't usually market their products through a distributor. Instead they supply industry and electrical supply companies. etc, not at the retail level. It may just be that places like FCPU/PPCs etc now need to contact Nidec Servo directly to place bulk orders for them or go through some electrical supply company middle man in order to get them.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aemonn*
> 
> If you haven't read the write up Martin did on Martin's Liquid Lab regarding fittings and flow rate you may find it very interesting. Good luck with the second pump!
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/


Thanks a lot. I will read it in depth tomorrow. When I tear everything down for maintenance, I will replace those fittings.


----------



## grazz1984

Hiya is 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing best for 1/2 barbs?


----------



## lowfat

Drained the water and filled it w/ the blue again.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-14-7.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-13-6.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-10-8.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Very nice as usual Mr. Low









Curious if you're gonna polish or brush the aluminum panels?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice as usual Mr. Low
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curious if you're gonna polish or brush the aluminum panels?


It will be powder coated black actually. I would love to polish it but I will be using epoxy on a bunch of places. So paint or powder coating is my only option.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> Those would be my only fans in the system, except PSU. Would that be wise?


Air in = air out .... no matter how ya install the fans..... can't speak to your case but every case I have seen has open grilles. If you blow air into ya case, the air comes out the grilles. This is why peeps talk about "positive case pressure" .... with fans blowing in, the thinking is it prevents dust which is not true in and of itself. It's only true if the fan inlets are filtered .... which is no different from fans blowing out and having filters on grilles.

You don't need to have matching fans blowing in and out ..... Think about it ....

.... you have an attic fan in your house... does it have a matching fan pulling air in ?

.... You have a fan blowing air in thru the rad on ya car ... do you have a fan blowing it out ?

.....Laptops typically have one or more fans blowing in on the bottom and exhausting out grilles in the back.... any fans blowing out ?

Commercial buildings, kitchens, confined spaces, generator sets, etc. are all enclosed areas where strong ventilation is essential..... but how often do ya ever see "matching fans blowing in and out" ? Each exhaust fan has a matching intake louver which provides the necessary air ..... the total air thru the exhaust fans exactly matches the air thru the intake lovers; if it didn't the room / building would explode / implode.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't miss it.
> 
> Scythe was just the distributor for Nidec Servo, so they handled all marketing and delivery of the fans to retailers. Since all retailers only dealt with Scythe to get their Gentle Typhoons, and thanks to FCPU's posting of their correspondence with Scythe, it's a known fact that Scythe was sending exaggerated/false doom & gloom messages to all their customers, it shouldn't be all that surprising that places like FCPU or PPCs fell for their line of bull-oney.
> 
> Nidec Servo doesn't usually market their products through a distributor. Instead they supply industry and electrical supply companies. etc, not at the retail level. It may just be that places like FCPU/PPCs etc now need to contact Nidec Servo directly to place bulk orders for them or go through some electrical supply company middle man in order to get them.


sigh, ignore my angry tone. The power flickered three times in 30 seconds, sent my computer into uber fritz mode. Yes, I run surge protectors. I actually have three. A hole house protector(caps on to where power comes into the house), my UPS, which then plugs into another strip. The system would turn on, but no video output, I thought on/all my titans went pop. Had to clear CMOS three times to get display back. I had *that* feeling.

I have faith they will come back around @ some point. You can't even find them under the D1225C w/o Scythe's name still attached. Good thing I now have 30 to hold me over.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Hiya is 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing best for 1/2 barbs?


Yes, it works well. That's what I used. It's really hard to get over the barbs so you'll have to dip it in very warm water to soften it up.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## gdubc

Funny story about the ap15s: occasionally microcenter gets some in stock so the last time I was there (picking up the rampage be







) I asked if they had any and the rep said they had a "big internal investigation" going because the shipment of them that they did receive mysteriously vanished from the store!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Funny story about the ap15s: occasionally microcenter gets some in stock so thee last time I was there (picking up the rampage be:thumb I asked if they had any and the rep said they had a "big internal investigation" going because the shipment of them that they did receive mysteriously vanished from the store!


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Yes, it works well. That's what I used. It's really hard to get over the barbs so you'll have to dip it in very warm water to soften it up.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Have u got a picture of your system so i can see how it looks please?


----------



## RickRockerr

Little bit offtopic but greetings from Finland! :thumb


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Looks like it would be an ideal place for an outdoors water cooling lan party....


----------



## VSG

I am sure Alatar is out there somewhere with his rig in a van or something


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am sure Alatar is out there somewhere with his rig in a van or something


Good one....


----------



## Anoxy

Is it bad to mount my CPU block and leave it sitting for several days? I'm waiting on a few parts, but I figured I'd get everything else ready. I'm inclined to believe there shouldn't be an issue, considering it sits the same way when it's on, but at slightly warmer temps


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Have u got a picture of your system so i can see how it looks please?


Check out MurderMac, link in my sig. The last few pictures should show the barbs.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is it bad to mount my CPU block and leave it sitting for several days? I'm waiting on a few parts, but I figured I'd get everything else ready. I'm inclined to believe there shouldn't be an issue, considering it sits the same way when it's on, but at slightly warmer temps


I had to do that when I sold my 290x cards and got the KPEs (well over a month) and I did not notice any issue at all.


----------



## stickg1

Messing around today with my new fans!


----------



## VSG

Did you get the Akasa splitter working?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Little bit offtopic but greetings from Finland! :thumb


Vihtavuori Oy for the win!! I love me some Finnish products!!!


----------



## DutchChilles

Awesome (imo) new case from Thermaltake, lots of WC options







And NO 5.25 bays








http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002239


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Messing around today with my new fans!


That definitely looks like Nvidia green rather than pea ham soup.


----------



## Jimhans1

It's about time, I used to love Thermaltake cases, just too limited in options and features. This one doesn't look to bad though. Wonder what they will price it at? Sadly, Thermaltake doesn't usually sit to good on the cost/quality scale IMHO.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Did you get the Akasa splitter working?


Yes! Check PM, its working well now. I'm using that black PCB splitter on the top fans and it works really well too.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> That definitely looks like Nvidia green rather than pea ham soup.


Yeah I tweaked that a little bit too. I'll probably go sky blue in the end but all I have to work with is yellow pastel and blue/purple dye so it will have to wait until after my next round of upgrades.


----------



## lowfat

The Thermaltake has a lot of options but that interior is rather hideous IMO.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yes! Check PM, its working well now. I'm using that black PCB splitter on the top fans and it works really well too.


Glad they worked out for you, and that coolant looks really nice now (and definitely green)!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Must admit I have been thinking of grabbing the thermaltake v71 for the 2x420 rad space, then I figured it would be best to just save up for the case labs S8 instead....


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Please add here
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1439800/radiator-screws-how-come-we-only-get-half


done:thumb:


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is it bad to mount my CPU block and leave it sitting for several days? I'm waiting on a few parts, but I figured I'd get everything else ready. I'm inclined to believe there shouldn't be an issue, considering it sits the same way when it's on, but at slightly warmer temps


Nope, you will be fine


----------



## wermad

Loop is coming along


----------



## Devildog83

Nice rig there wermad !!


----------



## stickg1

Whoa, that's a man sized loop.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Loop is coming along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beast of a rig,what rpm will those fans run at with so much rad space....?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Nice rig there wermad !!


Ty








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Whoa, that's a man sized loop.


Using 3/8x1/2 tube and it still looks good








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Beast of a rig,what rpm will those fans run at with so much rad space....?


Cougar CF-D14HB-G, max 1k rpm but I have them hooked up to my controller and they all run @ 40% ~400rpm.


----------



## Iniura

Hey guys and Darlene







does it matter which is in and out on an EK waterblock?, would it be okay to fit my fittings like this 

That one goes to my top rad, but I am having some difficulties because the tubing kinks when I fit the 90 rotary fitting on the left side, because the route is to short and to sharp.


PS Don't look at the tubing itself it was the shorter run from when I had my fitting on the left, obviously it doesn't fit well for this larger run.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice when you finally relocate the charger to your better camera:


----------



## R3apR369

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> believe me, i was in your situation 2 weeks ago. i had no choice but to bite frozens asking price. we don't know when nidec will be making more and i can't afford to wait. also, there was someone who was selling 3 sleeved gt-ap15's in the market place for a great price and i snatched it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry)


Oh hey, I'm that someone! LOL.









*Current build status:* (I Haven't started modding up the case yet.







Their will be pass-through fittings on the motherboard tray, as well as flooring put in for additonal pass-through fittings.)


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Loop is coming along


That Cougar fans look really nice.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Hey guys and Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does it matter which is in and out on an EK waterblock?


No, you can interchange them.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> When the Switch 810 first came out, I did a RIVE build in it, and that was before acrylic, so it was all 1/2 X 3/4.
> 
> With some planning, you can make it work pretty well, even with the RAM blocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But once you can compare it nearly side by side to an acrylic based plumbing job, it really is pretty much a no brainer . . .
> 
> I'll be redoing the 810 in acrylic once the Stretch is done for sure:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I like the 3/4 tubing job on the 810 better than the acrylic job on the lower pic. I guess It's just a matter of taste


----------



## skupples

So much tubing...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Loop is coming along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That green tube looks so good.

Try finding an action figure of the Hulk, it will look great in there.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Just revamped my watercooling was using a Koolance External unit before.

New parts!

Alphacool XT45 240

Alphacool XT45 360

XSPC Photon 170 D5 Vario combo

QD3 Quick Disconnects

Primochill Advanced LRT

Cougar Dual-x 120mm x 7

Cougar Dual-x 140mm x1

EK Supremecy CSQ CPU Block

XSPC Razer 780 Ti GPU Blocks x 3

XSPC SLI Bridges x 2

Bitspower Compression Fittings Assorted x I lost count.

I also modded the bottom where the HDD Trays were, i don't use them and they just look nasty, so i just removed the trays and placed a piece of Demciflex and magnetic strip over the area.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Nice build you got there, just curious what's yiur temps like with running 360 and 240 with 3x780ti's....


----------



## Seid Dark

Since I'm dirt poor I may just mod my Fractal Arc Midi to accept 360 rad on top instead of new case.

Thoughts on single Alphacool XT45 360 with 3x Scythe GT AP-13 fans, could it handle 2700K and one 780 Ti Classy overclocked to the max? Would push/pull offer noticeable benefits?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

so the consensus here is definitely pull through front/top radiators? getting my sp120's today.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Since I'm dirt poor I may just mod my Fractal Arc Midi to accept 360 rad on top instead of new case.
> 
> Thoughts on single Alphacool XT45 360 with 3x Scythe GT AP-13 fans, could it handle 2700K and one 780 Ti Classy overclocked to the max? Would push/pull offer noticeable benefits?


A 360 is enough to run a single cpu/gpu,and push/pull can give you a 10-30% better performance depending on rad or fans used....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> so the consensus here is definitely pull through front/top radiators? getting my sp120's today.


Thats how i have my rig setup up,i was told here it's better to run it that way than to have recycled air cooling one of the rads....


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> A 360 is enough to run a single cpu/gpu,and push/pull can give you a 10-30% better performance depending on rad or fans used....
> Thats how i have my rig setup up,i was told here it's better to run it that way than to have recycled air cooling one of the rads....


Yeah I turned my crappy fans around but I feel like stuff got a bit hotter after some testing.... Anyway the fans I have now suck these sp120's should be really good.

I also think maybe 2x 240mm rads aren't enough for a 3770k + 2x overclocked 290x. I have been hitting temps as high as 54c on both cards. It could just be my really crappy fans though and the fact that my ambient is decently high thanks to a mining farm in the basement.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Yeah I turned my crappy fans around but I feel like stuff got a bit hotter after some testing.... Anyway the fans I have now suck these sp120's should be really good.


Will admit it makes my mobo about 5c warmer,but better temps on cpu and gpu's....I needed all the cooling i can get with the weather we are having now (summer)....


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Will admit it makes my mobo about 5c warmer,but better temps on cpu and gpu's....I needed all the cooling i can get with the weather we are having now (summer)....


see my edit, im really wondering if my gpu temps are too high. I think it all comes down to having only 1850 rpm fans on one rad, and crappy 1000 or 1200rpm case fans used as rad fans on the other?

Another thing is, I believe the paperwork that came w/ my new mcp35x pump says it runs full speed when you don't have the pwm wire plugged in, it'd be a shame if I wasn't running the pump even at full power lol. I'm such a newb watercooler.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> see my edit, im really wondering if my gpu temps are too high. I think it all comes down to having only 1850 rpm fans on one rad, and crappy 1000 or 1200rpm case fans used as rad fans on the other?
> 
> Another thing is, I believe the paperwork that came w/ my new mcp35x pump says it runs full speed when you don't have the pwm wire plugged in, it'd be a shame if I wasn't running the pump even at full power lol. I'm such a newb watercooler.


You can use ''speedfan'' to check your pumps rpm,also you should see better temps getting rid of the other fans (the crappy ones) not the GT 15's....lol...Ambient does play a big role,i have 3 rads,with fans at 1200-1250 rpm and most days i have to bump them up to 1600-1800 because of the room temps,i wish our room was like 24c or less instead of always being in the high 20's or low 30's....


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Will admit it makes my mobo about 5c warmer,but better temps on cpu and gpu's....I needed all the cooling i can get with the weather we are having now (summer)....


see my edit, im really wondering if my gpu temps are too high. I think it all comes down to having only
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> You can use ''speedfan'' to check your pumps rpm,also you should see better temps getting rid of the other fans (the crappy ones) not the GT 15's....lol...Ambient does play a big role,i have 3 rads,with fans at 1200-1250 rpm and most days i have to bump them up to 1600-1800 because of the room temps,i wish our room was like 24c or less instead of always being in the high 20's or low 30's....


I don't have any gt15's I have the "xinrulian" 1850 rpm fans that came w/ my original xspc kit, and some crappy cooler master case fans on the other rad









cant wait for ups to get here today w/ my sp120s


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

I saw 1850 and thought GT-15's....will you be doing push/pull on the rads or just pull....?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I saw 1850 and thought GT-15's....will you be doing push/pull on the rads or just pull....?


I hadn't even thought about that but i don't think I could do push pull idk how I'd mount stuff


----------



## Maxincredible52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Loop is coming along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build man!

i have one question and i am so glad that i found this build ^^ i am looking for good green led rad fans and i wanted to ask you how those cougar dual x green led fans perform ... do they get much air through your rads without being loud?

currently i have corsair SP120 performance edition fans, but even with my fan controller they make way too much noise :/ when mounted in front of some case mesh for instance they are just sooo whiney and loud no matter @ what RPM ...

thanks for your help


----------



## grazz1984

What do you guys think of these monsoon fittings im thinking about using them in my next build, Are they worth the money?


----------



## Red1776

I have used them in my last two builds and I think they are worth it.


----------



## vicyo

Mending the crappy xspc D5 bay engineering flaw with some 7075 t7 aluminium... Ghetto Style =D

the only reason i made with countersink holes was because the screws wasn't long enough, lol



50 Celsius leakes no more


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Block for the S3 is on.


----------



## skupples

Dayyum. That tinted glass screams class.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Block for the S3 is on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


"3D Flow" with the palm trees and the birds is one of the coolest flourishes I've seen on tech hardware. It screams "Hawaii" or Santa Monica at the very least







. Very nice.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Love the backplate! Where'd you get it done?


Thanks







and sorry for slow reply,
It was made right here at home.. Info in my build log.
Cost me a dollar


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Dayyum. That tinted glass screams class.


Agreed I really like the look of that - excellent work


----------



## Iniura

Does anybody know where I could get black screws for my Hardwarelabs Black Ice SR-1? The screws my rad came with are ugly silver and there to short to, I need M4 x 30mm Screws in black but can't find them anywhere,I prefer somewhere in europe.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Why not make your own . . .
> 
> The Bitspower water tanks make an excellent base to start from since they comes in multiple lengths, and you can get single port, double port or triple port end caps for them, you can customize the setup to your needs.
> 
> Use a C47 on the inside of the cap inlet port and some E22 tube.
> 
> You could even add a cathode as well . . .
> 
> Darlene


what fan controller is that in pic please?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> what fan controller is that in pic please?


Looks like an AeroCool X-Vision


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Does anybody know where I could get black screws for my Hardwarelabs Black Ice SR-1? The screws my rad came with are ugly silver and there to short to, I need M4 x 30mm Screws in black but can't find them anywhere,I prefer somewhere in europe.


http://mnpctech.com/screws-anodized-m3-m4-30mm-35mm-40mm-red-blue-green-gold-ek-alphacool-hardwarelabs-corsair-xspc/pc-radiator-screws-anodized-socket-head-machine-red-blue-green-gold-black-silver-m3-m4-alphacool-ek-xspc-bix-hwlabs/


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> http://mnpctech.com/screws-anodized-m3-m4-30mm-35mm-40mm-red-blue-green-gold-ek-alphacool-hardwarelabs-corsair-xspc/pc-radiator-screws-anodized-socket-head-machine-red-blue-green-gold-black-silver-m3-m4-alphacool-ek-xspc-bix-hwlabs/


Thank you I don't like the colored ring around the screw though, I think I found some on Ebay which will do the job.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Thank you I don't like the colored ring around the screw though, I think I found some on Ebay which will do the job.


Same here.. i found alot of those screws from remote controlled toy sellers on e-bay.. that had same kinds of screws in black..


----------



## skupples

I go super cheep on my screws. The local Boating Hardware store sells every tiny metric size known to man for like 10-20 cents a piece. I just touch them up with paint & were golden. 8.99 for 4 screws = gets expensive REALLY fast.









in other news... Missed my fedex package by 10 seconds. By the time I got to my door he was hauling ass away from my drive way.







Now it won't be here until Tuesday unless I pick it up in Pompano Beach, which is a good 20 miles from here.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I go super cheep on my screws. The local Boating Hardware store sells every tiny metric size known to man for like 10-20 cents a piece. I just touch them up with paint & were golden. 8.99 for 4 screws = gets expensive REALLY fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in other news... Missed my fedex package by 10 seconds. By the time I got to my door he was hauling ass away from my drive way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it won't be here until Tuesday unless I pick it up in Pompano Beach, which is a good 20 miles from here.


Lol gotta love fedex's impatient drivers


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol gotta love fedex's impatient drivers


They are normally the best around here. In order of worst to best.
#1 - LAZER SHIP - Amazon uses them 9 times out of 10 when I take advantage of Prime or 1 day shipping. They NEVER knock, Disgruntled employees. We've caught them via security camera throwing packages over the hedges to make it to the front door. If the package hits the front door, they call it knocking, they also show up the latest out of everyone else. They get to my house ~7-9PM. They drive windowless panel vans.









#2 - DHL - Rarely knocks, rarely waits more than 10 seconds, never on time, shows up ~ 5-7PM

#3 - USPS - Knocks, packages show up ~ 1 day late, waits ~1 minute, packages look like they have been punted across sorting facilities, show up ~3PM.

#4 - UPS - Always knocks, normally on time, show up ~2-6 PM.

#4 - FedEx - Normally knocks, normally on time, shows up ~11am-1PM.

This was just a fluke, or a new driver, or he's having a really bad day. I did notice the package came from a different sort facility.

OwellZ I don't have my case yet either way, was just beginning the stock piling.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Why not make your own . . .
> 
> The Bitspower water tanks make an excellent base to start from since they comes in multiple lengths, and you can get single port, double port or triple port end caps for them, you can customize the setup to your needs.
> 
> Use a C47 on the inside of the cap inlet port and some E22 tube.
> 
> You could even add a cathode as well . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what fan controller is that in pic please?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> what fan controller is that in pic please?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like an AeroCool X-Vision
Click to expand...

It is indeed the X-Vision, but it's only being used as a display for the pump rpms (chan 4 & 5), and the flow rate, chan 3.

The other mystery box that actually IS a controller, is my DIY 3 channel PWM controller for 3 pairs of PWM D5's.

It started as some kind of gadget for NVIDIA mobos, but I just took the board out to use the bay sized housing for my controller.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7274/bus-135/Silverstone_Commander_Series_ESA_Certified_525_Controller_-_Black_SST-CMD01B-ESA.html?tl=g47c17s766


----------



## grazz1984

Im very OCD when it comes to cable management in my systems haha for those of you who dont use fan controllers in you water cooled systems how do u go about connecting all your fans up and how do you control speed/temps as i would prefer not to have a fan controller for the clean look if it is possible


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Im very OCD when it comes to cable management in my systems haha for those of you who dont use fan controllers in you water cooled systems how do u go about connecting all your fans up and how do you control speed/temps as i would prefer not to have a fan controller for the clean look if it is possible


You could pick up an aquacomputer Aquaero 5 or 6 LT. It's the hardware needed to control all your fans & pumps, but doesn't have a screen. You can stash it anywhere inside your case really. It runs off Aquasuite.
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p11311_Aquacomputer-aquaero-5-LT-USB-Fan-Controller.html


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Im very OCD when it comes to cable management in my systems haha for those of you who dont use fan controllers in you water cooled systems how do u go about connecting all your fans up and how do you control speed/temps as i would prefer not to have a fan controller for the clean look if it is possible


7 FAN header on the mobo (Asus R4BE) + 3 more on the OC pannel.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You could pick up an aquacomputer Aquaero 5 or 6 LT. It's the hardware needed to control all your fans & pumps, but doesn't have a screen. You can stash it anywhere inside your case really. It runs off Aquasuite.
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p11311_Aquacomputer-aquaero-5-LT-USB-Fan-Controller.html


that dont look to bad ill have a proper read up onit tomoz how many fans would i be able to have on that?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> that dont look to bad ill have a proper read up onit tomoz how many fans would i be able to have on that?


this is from the Aquaero 6...


----------



## grazz1984

I wouldnt mind this but cant seem to find it

[VIDEOhttp://[/VIDEO]www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkjnYCxJwFw][/VIDEO]


----------



## skupples

What I just linked is the newest model of what you just showed.

It's unlikely you would need the Power Adjust unless you are looking to push over 40+ fans,

Aquaero 5 LT

I guess the Aquearo 6 LT hasn't come out yet.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What I just linked is the newest model of what you just showed.
> 
> It's unlikely you would need the Power Adjust unless you are looking to push over 40+ fans,
> 
> Aquaero 5 LT
> 
> I guess the Aquearo 6 LT hasn't come out yet.


spot on that buddy i will be investing in this









Thanks alot


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What I just linked is the newest model of what you just showed.
> 
> It's unlikely you would need the Power Adjust unless you are looking to push over 40+ fans,
> 
> Aquaero 5 LT
> 
> *I guess the Aquearo 6 LT hasn't come out yet.*


AFAIK Aquacomputer isn't going to make an Aquaero 6 LT version.


----------



## Devildog83

I got this for less than 10 bucks and is can power 8 - 3 or 4 pin fans and a molex or sata too. You just need to find a place to hide it. Yes it's a bit dusty but I an tearing my whole PC down today to install some parts.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I got this for less than 10 bucks and is can power 8 - 3 or 4 pin fans and a molex or sata too. You just need to find a place to hide it. Yes it's a bit dusty but I an tearing my whole PC down today to install some parts.


yea ive seen them about but the only problem with them is you havnt got much control over your fans/pumps and stuff like that


----------



## skupples

^ I use those w/ my Aquaero. Accept i use the ones with 3 pin, so it's controllable.


----------



## grazz1984

cant find many of them in the uk ill need a couple of them for my rad fans to use with my Aquaero found 5 channel ones


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey all,just wanted to pick you brains for abit,a fellow OCN'er just finished there build....One card is 39c the other 100c,she's using cfx 7870's and put thermal paste on the thermal pads,is this something that's recommended to do....? Also what could be there reason/reasons for just high temps on card 2....?


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey all,just wanted to pick you brains for abit,a fellow OCN'er just finished there build....One card is 39c the other 100c,she's using cfx 7870's and put thermal paste on the thermal pads,is this something that's recommended to do....? Also what could be there reason/reasons for just high temps on card 2....?


Has she made sure block is seated properly?


----------



## stickg1

I did end up cleaning my fittings and it worked surprisingly well. Unfortunately I didn't bother with before pictures, my fittings weren't heavily tarnished, just not as much luster as they once had, until now!


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I did end up cleaning my fittings and it worked surprisingly well. Unfortunately I didn't bother with before pictures, my fittings weren't heavily tarnished, just not as much luster as they once had, until now!


looks good buddy


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Has she made sure block is seated properly?


Waiting for her to get back to us with that,it was suggested to her....


----------



## stickg1

So is there a fan controller that could easily control the voltage on a MOLEX powered device? For example, adjusting a MCP355 from 12v to 9v?

I'm having a hard time deciding what to upgrade first. Obviously I will need a CPU block, but TBH, this air cooler I'm using on the CPU does a stellar job. I really want a different pump, my MCP355 is by far the loudest thing in my case and the coolant is flowing WAY to fast through this loop. I can't use anything but pastel because water or X1 just turns to micro-bubbles. Then I will need another radiator, probably 360mm, and that means more fans which would require a decent fan controller because I plan on using all PWM fans.

So the want list is as follows:

Fan controller (really looking into the Aquero's)
Pump (MCP35X PWM or D5 Vario)
CPU Block
360mm RAD

And I can't afford to buy it all at once. Should I even bother trying to slow my MCP355 down a hair? Or is that a lost cause?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So is there a fan controller that could easily control the voltage on a MOLEX powered device? For example, adjusting a MCP355 from 12v to 9v?
> 
> I'm having a hard time deciding what to upgrade first. Obviously I will need a CPU block, but TBH, this air cooler I'm using on the CPU does a stellar job. I really want a different pump, my MCP355 is by far the loudest thing in my case and the coolant is flowing WAY to fast through this loop. I can't use anything but pastel because water or X1 just turns to micro-bubbles. Then I will need another radiator, probably 360mm, and that means more fans which would require a decent fan controller because I plan on using all PWM fans.
> 
> So the want list is as follows:
> 
> Fan controller (really looking into the Aquero's)
> Pump (MCP35X PWM or D5 Vario)
> CPU Block
> 360mm RAD
> 
> And I can't afford to buy it all at once. Should I even bother trying to slow my MCP355 down a hair? Or is that a lost cause?


If you get any fan controller, you could make a 3-pin mini-molex (aka fan connector) to full size molex adapter for the pump to allow voltage control...... Just make sure that the controller can take the 1.5amp that the pump needs......


----------



## stickg1

That's not a terrible idea, would I be able to operate it off of one of these guys?

*Aquacomputer Poweradjust 2 USB*
And possibly in conjunction with the: *Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT USB Fan-Controller*

Now I gotta be honest, I read the details there on PPCs and IDK if I'm still a bit roasted from last night or if it's just really poorly written.







I'm still 100% unsure about what all the Poweradjust 2 is capable of. Actually I think they just used Google Translator on the AQUAComputer website, translated it from German to English and copy and pasted it, because it reads exactly the same. lol


----------



## grazz1984

Were would be the best places to put temp sensors on my Aquaero 5 LT USB Fan-Controller to get accurate temps and control?


----------



## mr. biggums

Updated my rig a bit got an apogee drive 2 for $35 threw on a new pwm pump and lost the res. Was surprised how easy it was to fill and bleed.


----------



## skupples

This FedEx driver made a second delivery attempt IN THE SAME DAY.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I am getting Micro bubbles in my res, still. There is no leaks that I can find, and the system is 100% dead quiet at the pump and fans... I am not sure if one of the fittings could be pulling a little bit of air or something.


----------



## pc-illiterate

@stickg1 why not get a rheostat like the ones they used to sell at sidewinder?
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sirh25wa.html
it shouldnt be hard to hide.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I am getting Micro bubbles in my res, still. There is no leaks that I can find, and the system is 100% dead quiet at the pump and fans... I am not sure if one of the fittings could be pulling a little bit of air or something.


How long ago did you fill the system? They can take a long time to work out, specially if you are using pure water (with anti corrosion/bacteria additives of course)


----------



## stickg1

I'm thinking if I have to buy something that's $30-$50 just to control a MCP355 and get an independent fan controller as well, I would be much better off just getting a MCP35X PWM and a fan controller instead. So that's what I'll probably do.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm thinking if I have to buy something that's $30-$50 just to control a MCP355 and get an independent fan controller as well, I would be much better off just getting a MCP35X PWM and a fan controller instead. So that's what I'll probably do.


Definitely not cheaper. I think the only fan controller that can be used to control that pump is an aqua computer one.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Definitely not cheaper. I think the only fan controller that can be used to control that pump is an aqua computer one.


He can just use the motherboard to control the speed of the pump. Then buying a cheaper fan controller for the fans.


----------



## stickg1

I was thinking of just getting the Poweradjust 2 and the Aqueros 5 LT but it seems somewhat complicated to get the two to work together. Plus I would get more control if I just got a PWM pump?

Could one of the new Aqueros 5 or 6 handle voltage control a non-PWM DDC pump?


----------



## SeeThruHead

the aquaero 5lt and a power adjust is a pretty cheap way of powering any non pwm ddc. But if you haven't already any components you might be better off with a pwm ddc and the aquaero 6. No need for a power adjust in that case. Plus the pwm ddc could be controlled via mobo head as well as aq6.

The power adjust is just basically a extra more powerful fan channel. It was designed to power ddc pumps.

You could also just buy a poweradjust usb and connect it without an aquaero. If all you're looking to do is power a pump.


----------



## skupples

Just remember the Power Adjust can't do PWM control over aquabus.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> the aquaero 5lt and a power adjust is a pretty cheap way of powering any non pwm ddc. But if you haven't already any components you might be better off with a pwm ddc and the aquaero 6. No need for a power adjust in that case. Plus the pwm ddc could be controlled via mobo head as well as aq6.
> 
> The power adjust is just basically a extra more powerful fan channel. It was designed to power ddc pumps.
> 
> You could also just buy a poweradjust usb and connect it without an aquaero. If all you're looking to do is power a pump.


Yeah but I rather like the Aquero 5 LT though. Maybe I'll get the Poweradjust2 Ultra now, and then eventually get an Aqueros 5 LT.

The question is how do I connect the Poweradjust2 to the Aqueros?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was thinking of just getting the Poweradjust 2 and the Aqueros 5 LT but it seems somewhat complicated to get the two to work together. Plus I would get more control if I just got a PWM pump?
> 
> Could one of the new Aqueros 5 or 6 handle voltage control a non-PWM DDC pump?


As long as you through a heatsink or a waterblock on the LT it should easily be able to power a DDC3.

An LT can also control a single PWM device AFAIK.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah but I rather like the Aquero 5 LT though. Maybe I'll get the Poweradjust2 Ultra now, and then eventually get an Aqueros 5 LT.
> 
> The question is how do I connect the Poweradjust2 to the Aqueros?


from what I understand (please correct me) poweradjust doesn't do PWM, or it can't do PWM when synced with the Aquaero.

5LT can definitely handle PWM pumps on it's own, since the power comes from the PSU. It uses the aquaero for the signal only.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> As long as you through a heatsink or a waterblock on the LT it should easily be able to power a DDC3.
> 
> An LT can also control a single PWM device AFAIK.


I was just reading a thread where a guy put a waterblock on his Aquero 5 LT.

So potentially an Aquero 5 LT and a waterblock is $10 cheaper than a 5-LT and a Poweradjust2. I just am worried that the DDC pump might be pushing the capabilities of the AQ5LT when it's also loaded with a dozen fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> from what I understand (please correct me) poweradjust doesn't do PWM, or it can't do PWM when synced with the Aquaero.
> 
> 5LT can definitely handle PWM pumps on it's own, since the power comes from the PSU. It uses the aquaero for the signal only.


I wont be using a PWM pump, that's the thing. If it's potentially cheaper than buying a new pump, I will just keep my MCP355 and buy the necessary equipment to control it to my needs.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah but I rather like the Aquero 5 LT though. Maybe I'll get the Poweradjust2 Ultra now, and then eventually get an Aqueros 5 LT.
> 
> The question is how do I connect the Poweradjust2 to the Aqueros?


You can connect them with a 3 pin aquabus cable.

I've currently got 2 pwm ddc hooked up to the aq5 lt. (Using a pwm splitter.) and my fans are voltage controlled by the other 3 fan channels. If I wanted to add more fans I could add a significant number by adding in a poweradjust. Honestly I think that's probably your best bet. You can get a mcp35x now and run it off your mobo. Then down the road when you want to get an aquaero you can buy the lt and stick the pump on its pwm channel if you want. Then if you decide to add more fans than the aq5lt can handle you could get a poweradjust. That really would only work if your fans are are 3 pin as that setup only provides you with one pwm channel on the aquaero.

EDIT: just read your response about already having the ddc. Like lowfat said you should be able to power it off of the built in channels on the aq5lt. (Each channel provodes 1.65 amp up to a combined max of 5amps They even make an adapter for it: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2345

So theres a tradeoff to be made. If you buy a poweradjust you get to control the pump via voltage for 49.99 and with a tiny foot print.
now the aq5lt for 79 dollars you can control the pump, a pwm device(or pwm splitter) and 2 more channels of fans. In a slightly larger form factor.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was just reading a thread where a guy put a waterblock on his Aquero 5 LT.
> 
> So potentially an Aquero 5 LT and a waterblock is $10 cheaper than a 5-LT and a Poweradjust2. I just am worried that the DDC pump might be pushing the capabilities of the AQ5LT when it's also loaded with a dozen fans.
> I wont be using a PWM pump, that's the thing. If it's potentially cheaper than buying a new pump, I will just keep my MCP355 and buy the necessary equipment to control it to my needs.


Most PWM DDC pumps get their power via molex, which comes from the PSU. It only gets it's pulse signal from the Aquearo.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was just reading a thread where a guy put a waterblock on his Aquero 5 LT.
> 
> So potentially an Aquero 5 LT and a waterblock is $10 cheaper than a 5-LT and a Poweradjust2. I just am worried that the DDC pump might be pushing the capabilities of the AQ5LT when it's also loaded with a dozen fans.


Read Martin's review on the AQ5 XT. The LT is exactly the same w/o the display and heatsink. Throw a waterblock on it and have no problems w/ handling a dozen fans + a pump.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Read Martin's review on the AQ5 XT. The LT is exactly the same w/o the display and heatsink. Throw a waterblock on it and have no problems w/ handling a dozen fans + a pump.


With the heat sink it would likely handle way over 12 fans.

Just remember that Power Adjust can not do PWM, it's for 3 pin fans only.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> With the heat sink it would likely handle way over 12 fans.
> 
> Just remember that Power Adjust can not do PWM, it's for 3 pin fans only.


I think I ninja edited my previous post to respond to you earlier, but there is no PWM pump. I will have to crimp a 3pin fan connector onto my MCP355, if I can control that pump and up to 11 PWM fans (in actuality probably just 6 PWM fans and 5 3pin fans) by using the waterblock then that looks like my best bet.

Worst case scenario I buy the Poweradjust2 just for the peace of mind and an AQ5LT to use with my fans.


----------



## pc-illiterate

when was the last ddc pump that failed to start when powered up? thats the huge advantage the pa2 has. if it detects the pump stopped running, it sends a full 12v burst to restart the pump. if it doesnt start when you first cold boot, boom it sends a full 12v burst to start the pump. the poweradjust2 wasnt designed as a fan controller. it was designed to run ddc pumps. being able to control fans is a side effect. i know im buying a pa2 for each of my pumps. no matter what you think, i know if either pump fails to start or stops running, the pa2 will try to jumpstart it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm thinking if I have to buy something that's $30-$50 just to control a MCP355 and get an independent fan controller as well, I would be much better off just getting a MCP35X PWM and a fan controller instead. So that's what I'll probably do.


I used a 35x2 PWM on CPU and CPU_OPT

Then..... (posted this before but if ya didn't see it)

CHA_1 went to a Phanteks Fan PCB and to the 5 Case Fans (Push Only)
CHA_2 went to a 2nd Phanteks Fan PCB and to the 5 rad Fans

Once the PCBs are available to buy as an accessory 2-3 weeks ....I'll buy a 3rd PCB and 5 more rad fans

CHA_1 => Phanteks Fan PCB and to the 5 Case Fans (Push Only)
CHA_2 => 2nd Phanteks Fan PCB and to the 6 fans on the 420
CHA_3 => 3rd Phanteks Fan PCB and to the 4 fans on the 280


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I filled it two days ago. I used a fill tube to clean the bubbles out once and now they are back. The water level dropped maybe a mm overall.

I am using the EK Koolant.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Does anybody know where I could get black screws for my Hardwarelabs Black Ice SR-1? The screws my rad came with are ugly silver and there to short to, I need M4 x 30mm Screws in black but can't find them anywhere,I prefer somewhere in europe.


I recently discovered this modding shop in Poland. He has some stuff that others don't in Europe, like white PSU connectors and black oxide M4 screws. I got a G1/4 and 6-32 tap for a very good price. Quick service too









Here link to M4x30mm http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/sruby-kuliste/180-sruba-kulista-czarna-m3x06-gnimbus.html


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I recently discovered this modding shop in Poland. He has some stuff that others don't in Europe, like white PSU connectors and black oxide M4 screws. I got a G1/4 and 6-32 tap for a very good price. Quick service too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here link to M4x30mm http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/sruby-kuliste/180-sruba-kulista-czarna-m3x06-gnimbus.html


Nice, thnx WiSK I'm going to look into it.


----------



## skupples

That's what the Start Boost setting is for in Aquasuite.

I use to have that issue when I was powering MCP35x2 from the mobo @ low power.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I filled it two days ago. I used a fill tube to clean the bubbles out once and now they are back. The water level dropped maybe a mm overall.
> 
> I am using the EK Koolant.


how are your temps with that EK Koolant? I have an unopened bottle of it since I decided to use distilled water.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> how are your temps with that EK Koolant? I have an unopened bottle of it since I decided to use distilled water.


It seems to be OK so far. The GPUs are stable at 32-35 range with the parallel block on them, and the CPU seems to be around 58-65 while overclocked to 4.5ghz.

This is my first time running water, so I don't know if I could get them lower. I want to add a slim line fan to the rear radiator.


----------



## Angrychair

seems good. I'm overdue for a flush, maybe I will crack that bottle open.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Nice build you got there, just curious what's yiur temps like with running 360 and 240 with 3x780ti's....


So far GPU's haven't gone above 44c and cpu haven't gone above 62c


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> seems good. I'm overdue for a flush, maybe I will crack that bottle open.


im using blood red ekoolant right now. working great, and has great color right out of the bottle.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> im using blood red ekoolant right now. working great, and has great color right out of the bottle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> seems good. I'm overdue for a flush, maybe I will crack that bottle open.


I bought 4 liters, as I have 2x 280s, 1x 240, 1x 120, as well as a 200x60mm reservoir. I used almost exactly 2 liters, so at least I have enough to refill the full system if need be. I do like the Koolant a lot. I just wish I would have died it black.

I did add uv reactive dye, so that I can check for leaks. I am going to run the light around the system tonight and look for any glowing spots.


----------



## fakeblood

On the subject of the LT5, im looking to power/control 8 AP14s and 8 AP15s

If I were to get the LT5, two of these and either the heatsink or waterblock. Would it be sufficient? or would I need a poweradjust also?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> On the subject of the LT5, im looking to power/control 8 AP14s and 8 AP15s
> 
> If I were to get the LT5, two of these and either the heatsink or waterblock. Would it be sufficient? or would I need a poweradjust also?


Are you talking about the PWM Corsair fans? those things don't get along with Aquaero. If they are the normal 3 pin fans, then yes it will work just fine. I doubt you will need the waterblock though.


----------



## fakeblood

I was meaning gentle typhoons


----------



## wermad

560s installed....a pita, but got them in


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 560s installed....a pita, but got them in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that looks so good


----------



## skupples

ohhh, those are 560's after all... Damn I now regret getting two new UT60 480's for my caselabs.

They fit like glove!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Very nice job Werm! Massive overkill and right at home here on Overkill.net!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 560s installed....a pita, but got them in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you tubed them yet? I went with 480's for the bottom just for the ease of tubing AND I wanted a fan down bottom/front on flex bay mount


----------



## ShortySmalls

This thread is soooo hard to keep up on lel, every time i login there is another 150 post to read.


----------



## Inelastic

Well, I guess I will officially join the club. This is my first watercooled build, hence the red/black theme







I still have to redo my cables. The ones I have are an old Corsair set I found on clearance for 30 bucks around 2 years ago. I'm still waiting on my order from Lutro0 to come in. I plan on re-sleeving and modifying the Corsair ones to fit my case better.


Spoiler: The Hardware



The innards:
CASE: Corsair 350D
CPU: I5-3570K @ 4.6GHz
MOBO: Asus Maximus V Gene
RAM: GSkill TridentX, 16GB @ 2.4GHz
GPU: EVGA GTX 670 FTW
HDD: 2X Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (raid 0 for main) and Samsung Spinpoint 1TB (storage)
SOUND: Asus Xonar Xense
PSU: Corsair AX1200

Watercooling gear:
Monsoon Series 2 Premium dual-bay reservoir
MCP655-PWM pump
Alphacool ST30 120mm and 240mm radiators
Alphacool UT60 120mm radiator
Monsoon and Bitspower fittings
XSPC Raystorm CPU block
Heatkiller GPU-X3 "Hole Edition" gpu block
Primochill Advanced LRT tubing
Corsair SP120 PWM fans





Spoiler: More Pics


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> This thread is soooo hard to keep up on lel, every time i login there is another 150 post to read.


There is an easy solution to that problem...log in more!









On a different note, do these special fluids that swiftech and other manufacturers are selling make any difference in performance? I've always used distilled + silver coil + dead water and been really satisfied so what exactly do these special fluids offer?


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> There is an easy solution to that problem...log in more!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note, do these special fluids that swiftech and other manufacturers are selling make any difference in performance? I've always used distilled + silver coil + dead water and been really satisfied so what exactly do these special fluids offer?


From my general browsing over the years, they are just a marketing gimic and are just water with PT nuke like additives, but there are people who live by them. I would buy some died meyhems if i didn't take my loop apart so much, and i would need to buy $40 every 2 weeks


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> There is an easy solution to that problem...log in more!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note, do these special fluids that swiftech and other manufacturers are selling make any difference in performance? I've always used distilled + silver coil + dead water and been really satisfied so what exactly do these special fluids offer?


I would only use Mayhem's XT1 products over what you are using, except what you are using doesn't offer any anti-corrosive agents, or surfactants. Silver + dead water is extremely redundant, and I personally have had some weird build up using those two combined.

Mayhem's is anti-biological, anti-corrosive, & surfactant all rolled into one.

More performance? Not unless you are trying to stick your radiators out the window in the middle of winter thus need some glycol... Better system protection? Yes.


It looks like corrosion from afar, but it cleaned off with a bit of elbow grease. It showed up like the color of copper on the cleaning rags, which makes me think it's build up from the Dead Water (copper sulfate)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I have only ever used Mayhems coolant and have never had any significant corrosion issues. There has been staining for sure but no corrosion so you just have to decide for yourself whether that is worth it or not. There is no perfect coolant choice as people have had problems with every coolant imaginable from plain distilled on up to brand-specific coolants like EK's own coolant...


----------



## skupples

I'm using the clear X-1 this time around, & I totally forgot to order drainage system parts in my last order, so another 10$ to the shipping gods.









My cases are simply too heavy to carry to the bathroom for draining these days.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm using the clear X-1 this time around, & I totally forgot to order drainage system parts in my last order, so another 10$ to the shipping gods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cases are simply too heavy to carry to the bathroom for draining these days.


That's what I love about mine. It's light enough to pick up and carry over to the sink. I just remove the drain plug at the bottom and the fill plug at the top and it all drains out in like 15 seconds, well except for the 120 rad on the back.


----------



## Seid Dark

Wouldn't it be easier to have bucket or something instead of carrying the whole case to the bathroom?


----------



## skupples

I think some one asked this the other day, but I can't seem to find it...

The Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow are rated by flow.

Iv'e seen the flow charts for the MCP35x2 but wanted to get some advice as to what people think i'm really running at when pushing 2-3 MCP35x's through a massive system.. I guess it makes the most sense to get the 20-100 LPH model?


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Wouldn't it be easier to have bucket or something instead of carrying the whole case to the bathroom?


I don't have a drain port or anything, i just pull a tube off and hold a kitchen mixing bowl under it until it stops flowing, dump the bowl, and blow into the tube until all the water is out of the rads and blocks.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I could use some input... As I am at a loss for what to do at the moment.

I would like to remove two fittings, and replace them once my next batch arrives with more 45° angles. Is there any way to pinch or plug the lines leading out of the res and the one radiator effected, so I don't have to drain the full system?

I just want to stop the one hose that is touching the side panel, from touching it.



I am also considering mounting another pump, with a 50mm res above the main res, just to add a little head pressure and take the strain off of this one. Thoughts on that as well?


----------



## witeboy07

Here is my set. Just finished it a few minutes ago.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think some one asked this the other day, but I can't seem to find it...
> 
> The Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow are rated by flow.
> 
> Iv'e seen the flow charts for the MCP35x2 but wanted to get some advice as to what people think i'm really running at when pushing 2-3 MCP35x's through a massive system.. I guess it makes the most sense to get the 20-100 LPH model?


I would think the MPS200 would be the better choice, since even at its lowest flow sensing of 40LPH, that's .66LPM, and that's way lower than even a single 35X can do. Just my


----------



## SeeThruHead

I'm pretty sure the higher of the mps flow sensors are what you want for the one gpm range. That's the mps 400. The 200 has a top range of 53 gallons per hour which is less than 1gpm. The 400 has a much larger range. From 21 to 106 gallons per hour.

For reference 1 gpm(60gph), which I think is what most people strive for with their loops is 226 litres per hour.


----------



## Anti Hero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Well, I guess I will officially join the club. This is my first watercooled build, hence the red/black theme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to redo my cables. The ones I have are an old Corsair set I found on clearance for 30 bucks around 2 years ago. I'm still waiting on my order from Lutro0 to come in. I plan on re-sleeving and modifying the Corsair ones to fit my case better.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The Hardware
> 
> 
> 
> The innards:
> CASE: Corsair 350D
> CPU: I5-3570K @ 4.6GHz
> MOBO: Asus Maximus V Gene
> RAM: GSkill TridentX, 16GB @ 2.4GHz
> GPU: EVGA GTX 670 FTW
> HDD: 2X Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (raid 0 for main) and Samsung Spinpoint 1TB (storage)
> SOUND: Asus Xonar Xense
> PSU: Corsair AX1200
> 
> Watercooling gear:
> Monsoon Series 2 Premium dual-bay reservoir
> MCP655-PWM pump
> Alphacool ST30 120mm and 240mm radiators
> Alphacool UT60 120mm radiator
> Monsoon and Bitspower fittings
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block
> Heatkiller GPU-X3 "Hole Edition" gpu block
> Primochill Advanced LRT tubing
> Corsair SP120 PWM fans


Nice build


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Are these temps ok....?

BF4 64 player maps....Metro last light....

1x360 in pull (intake) Fans @ 1400....1x240 push/pull (intake) Fans @ 1400....1x240 push (intake) Fans @ 1250....

GPU 1 and 2 (48c).....CPU/3820 @ 4.5 with 1.3volts, highest core 64c.....Ambient 28-29c

If i turn the fans up to say 2200 rpm i wont go above 45c gaming,but for a quiet experience i want them turned down....

All fans are Corsairs SP's....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I could use some input... As I am at a loss for what to do at the moment.
> 
> I would like to remove two fittings, and replace them once my next batch arrives with more 45° angles. Is there any way to pinch or plug the lines leading out of the res and the one radiator effected, so I don't have to drain the full system?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> I just want to stop the one hose that is touching the side panel, from touching it.
> 
> 
> 
> I am also considering mounting another pump, with a 50mm res above the main res, just to add a little head pressure and take the strain off of this one. Thoughts on that as well?


Maybe something like this ...?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23391/ex-tub-2886/Phobya_Maintenance_Hose_Clamp_-_34_OD_Max_60008.html?tl=g30c289s175


----------



## SeeThruHead

You can jut grab some heap c clamps from the hardware store. I use a few really small 2 dollar ones on my 3/8 by 1/2 tube.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Took a while but finally got my run perfectly square in all dimensions


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Maybe something like this ...?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23391/ex-tub-2886/Phobya_Maintenance_Hose_Clamp_-_34_OD_Max_60008.html?tl=g30c289s175


That would indeed be perfect! Thank you! +rep for that!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> You can jut grab some heap c clamps from the hardware store. I use a few really small 2 dollar ones on my 3/8 by 1/2 tube.


I am going to try to find a hardware store. I live in Korea, and have no honest idea where I would go at this point. I will figure it out very soon though. I want this system to be as clean as possible.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> There is an easy solution to that problem...log in more!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note, do these special fluids that swiftech and other manufacturers are selling make any difference in performance? I've always used distilled + silver coil + dead water and been really satisfied so what exactly do these special fluids offer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From my general browsing over the years, they are just a marketing gimic and are just water with PT nuke like additives, but there are people who live by them. *I would buy some died meyhems if i didn't take my loop apart so much, and i would need to buy $40 every 2 weeks*
Click to expand...

You can re-use them back you know, SRSLY!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Are these temps ok....?
> 
> BF4 64 player maps....Metro last light....
> 
> 1x360 in pull (intake) Fans @ 1400....1x240 push/pull (intake) Fans @ 1400....1x240 push (intake) Fans @ 1250....
> 
> GPU 1 and 2 (48c).....CPU/3820 @ 4.5 with 1.3volts, highest core 64c.....Ambient 28-29c
> 
> If i turn the fans up to say 2200 rpm i wont go above 45c gaming,but for a quiet experience i want them turned down....
> 
> All fans are Corsairs SP's....


Temps look alright to me. Mine running @4.75 GHz with 1.45V, max at 74C. Check out my CPU temps in the same ambient temp.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You can re-use them back you know, SRSLY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps look alright to me. Mine running @4.75 GHz, max at 74C. Check out my CPU temps in the same ambient temp.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Even tho i love the heat being jamaican and all,i cnt wait for the cooler weather to start rolling in so i can see my temps back to what they used to be,just sick of the constant 27c+ ambient temps and this 80%+ humidity....







And this is why i water cooled,can't image having sli 780's running on air with this kind of weather....


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You can re-use them back you know, SRSLY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps look alright to me. Mine running @4.75 GHz, max at 74C. Check out my CPU temps in the same ambient temp.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even tho i love the heat being jamaican and all,i cnt wait for the cooler weather to start rolling in so i can see my temps back to what they used to be,just sick of the constant 27c+ ambient temps and this 80%+ humidity....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is why i water cooled,can't image having sli 780's running on air with this kind of weather....
Click to expand...

27+ C? Pfftt...try 35+ C. I still overclocked both CPU & GPU's because I don't care.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 27+ C? Pfftt...try 35+ C. I still overclocked both CPU & GPU's because I don't care.


Hahahaha,i get OCD if my gpu's hits between 48-50c and then turn the fans up....Like i said i'm use to the heat,it doesnt bother me one bit,when i hear the wife complain about it being hot i ask here what she's talking about....Anything below 23c or so i start freezing







obviously with different ambient temps tho....I want cooler weather for my rig,but not looking forward to winter (i hate winter)....


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Hey Jamaican reaper so I got those sp120's installed a minute ago in PULL. Let me say my old fans were total trash I am playing some good ol' max payne 3 and my core on both gpus never hit above 43c down from mid 50's with my other fans. The vrms Are also down a ton! I am loving these things they are definitely loud though.

I kind of want to get a fan controller but I have no 5.25" bay anymore due to my res height. I'm about to plug them in to the fan controller of my case and see if that works.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Hey Jamaican reaper so I got those sp120's installed a minute ago in PULL. Let me say my old fans were total trash I am playing some good ol' max payne 3 and my core on both gpus never hit above 43c down from mid 50's with my other fans. The vrms Are also down a ton! I am loving these things they are definitely loud though.
> 
> I kind of want to get a fan controller but I have no 5.25" bay anymore due to my res height. I'm about to plug them in to the fan controller of my case and see if that works.


Yeah i love these fans,only downside to them is the noise with them at full speed....I wish i could get the Gt's in aus,may have to get some NB-eLoop B12-3 to eventually replace them after this summer weather is over with....Glad to see you are getting better temps....


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think some one asked this the other day, but I can't seem to find it...
> 
> The Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow are rated by flow.
> 
> Iv'e seen the flow charts for the MCP35x2 but wanted to get some advice as to what people think i'm really running at when pushing 2-3 MCP35x's through a massive system.. I guess it makes the most sense to get the 20-100 LPH model?


The 100 maxes out at 0.4 GPM
the 200 maxes out at just under 1 GPM
The 400 ranges from 0.35 GPM to 1.75 GPM

I don't see the point of measuring less 0.35 or maxing at less than 1

The Mechanical models are marginally more accurate and have a much larger range.


----------



## SeeThruHead

The pressure ones, the mps series. I don't think are very accurate unless calibrated. So unless you have some equipment to calibrate, or just care about relative values the mechanical ones are probably a better buy. Though I have heard that they can make a clicking noise.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Well, I guess I will officially join the club. This is my first watercooled build, hence the red/black theme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to redo my cables. The ones I have are an old Corsair set I found on clearance for 30 bucks around 2 years ago. I'm still waiting on my order from Lutro0 to come in. I plan on re-sleeving and modifying the Corsair ones to fit my case better.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The Hardware
> 
> 
> 
> The innards:
> CASE: Corsair 350D
> CPU: I5-3570K @ 4.6GHz
> MOBO: Asus Maximus V Gene
> RAM: GSkill TridentX, 16GB @ 2.4GHz
> GPU: EVGA GTX 670 FTW
> HDD: 2X Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (raid 0 for main) and Samsung Spinpoint 1TB (storage)
> SOUND: Asus Xonar Xense
> PSU: Corsair AX1200
> 
> Watercooling gear:
> Monsoon Series 2 Premium dual-bay reservoir
> MCP655-PWM pump
> Alphacool ST30 120mm and 240mm radiators
> Alphacool UT60 120mm radiator
> Monsoon and Bitspower fittings
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block
> Heatkiller GPU-X3 "Hole Edition" gpu block
> Primochill Advanced LRT tubing
> Corsair SP120 PWM fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Pics


Very nice build. I think you just sold me on going with black tubing now. Now to sell of this green Primochill acrylic tubing, and get me some black Monsoon acrylic tubing. May even sell my Primochill barbs too. Kind of digging the looks of the Monsoon ones.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> Wow that looks so good


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ohhh, those are 560's after all... Damn I now regret getting two new UT60 480's for my caselabs.
> 
> They fit like glove!


Yup, these 560s are huge and were a bit challenging to get in and plumb. The top was the biggest challenge since the two 280s had to be custom mounted. Barely cleared.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Very nice job Werm! Massive overkill and right at home here on Overkill.net!


Thank you Eric







. I already had two 280s and a 420, so it was an ocn necessity for overkill to throw in two 560s








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Have you tubed them yet? I went with 480's for the bottom just for the ease of tubing AND I wanted a fan down bottom/front on flex bay mount


.

Yeah, I got them plumbed and they were a pita. I didn't want to do more holes in the case so I just used the stock openings to route the tube. With this size (3/8x1/2) I was able to squeeze in above the rads. But connecting them was hard since there's limited to no access. Had to remove the psu covers and squeeze in my bear-paw hands in there.

This thing is getting massive!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FWIW, adding to the discussion about how hard it's been recently to find a decent deal on Gentle Typhoons, Jab-tech's got the AP-14s for $10.47 right now while they last. You can use their perpetual 5% off discount code: _facebook_, and the price drops under $10 per fan. Too bad they are sold out of the AP-15s though.

edit:
Best price I'm finding for AP-15s right now looks to be aaawave for $18.95 + free shipping. Don't know how long that's going to last though. Anyone seen a better deal anywhere?

I noticed PPCs is sold out of them now and FCPU's stock of them for $20 a piece looks to be finally starting to dwindle. They've been able to replenish their inventory of them so far with their listed stock fluctuating anywhere from 200-600 of the AP-15s over the past couple months, but over the past 2 weeks their numbers have been steadily dropping from over 500 fans down to 120 at the moment, which is the lowest I've seen from them since the news that Scythe and Nidec had parted ways.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

As promised,the GPU shroud....





Both sides roll over,the top side rolls over enough to come to the edge of the backplate.
The top for the ports has not been cut as the active backplate has a different port terminal. I can just cut that in when it gets here.
Now you can see why I was not bothered about the pink caps.
The retainer clips will be cut off the GPU power feeds so they slip under and keep it tidy.

Now its come off again for top coat and clear coating.

What do you think?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As promised,the GPU shroud....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides roll over,the top side rolls over enough to come to the edge of the backplate.
> The top for the ports has not been cut as the active backplate has a different port terminal. I can just cut that in when it gets here.
> Now you can see why I was not bothered about the pink caps.
> The retainer clips will be cut off the GPU power feeds so they slip under and keep it tidy.
> 
> Now its come off again for top coat and clear coating.
> 
> What do you think?


Looking good. How was that made? Did you have that made or make it yourself?

Just to compare, here's the 'before' ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Block for the S3 is on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As promised,the GPU shroud....
> 
> What do you think?


I like it, very unique and tidy looking.









I have a question/suggestion, would it be possible to expose the brushed nickel frame a bit? Say pull back the edge that meets the acrylic. So basically pull back the edge just enough to expose say the lettering and then come up to go under the mounting bolts so it would not be visible. ( I hope im explaining that right) It would be very tedious work and in the end might take away from the shrouds structural stiffness, but man that brushed aluminum frame is sexy. OR possibly if drilling an tapping is a choice possibly bring the shroud opening a step down so that it sits outside of the brushed frame. You would probably need to drill and tap at least 4 small bolts to hold it on though.

Just a thought though it looks AWESOME regardless.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As promised,the GPU shroud....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides roll over,the top side rolls over enough to come to the edge of the backplate.
> The top for the ports has not been cut as the active backplate has a different port terminal. I can just cut that in when it gets here.
> Now you can see why I was not bothered about the pink caps.
> The retainer clips will be cut off the GPU power feeds so they slip under and keep it tidy.
> 
> Now its come off again for top coat and clear coating.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


Stock looks better tbh







. Covering up all that nice nickle finish


----------



## lowfat

That gpu shroud is a fantastic idea.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As promised,the GPU shroud....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides roll over,the top side rolls over enough to come to the edge of the backplate.
> The top for the ports has not been cut as the active backplate has a different port terminal. I can just cut that in when it gets here.
> Now you can see why I was not bothered about the pink caps.
> The retainer clips will be cut off the GPU power feeds so they slip under and keep it tidy.
> 
> Now its come off again for top coat and clear coating.
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good. *How was that made? Did you have that made or make it yourself?*
> 
> Just to compare, here's the 'before' ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Block for the S3 is on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Made it myself,2 hours outside in the sun,smoking.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That gpu shroud is a fantastic idea.












It will look awesome once its painted. and with white coolant in it.


----------



## skupples

Am I reading it correctly that an "external temp sensor" plugs into this, than communicates with the Aquasuite via aquabus? also, is the USB connection required? also, the aquabus cable that came with my Aquaero is 3 pin not 4 pin?

one other question... Required SLI fitting for standard 2 slot format is 41-69mm, correct? I busted out the ruler got ~43mm, just want to make sure.


----------



## DarthBaggins

B-Neg, that shroud came out great now need to see it w/ the coolant running


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Well, I guess I will officially join the club. This is my first watercooled build, hence the red/black theme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to redo my cables. The ones I have are an old Corsair set I found on clearance for 30 bucks around 2 years ago. I'm still waiting on my order from Lutro0 to come in. I plan on re-sleeving and modifying the Corsair ones to fit my case better.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The Hardware
> 
> 
> 
> The innards:
> CASE: Corsair 350D
> CPU: I5-3570K @ 4.6GHz
> MOBO: Asus Maximus V Gene
> RAM: GSkill TridentX, 16GB @ 2.4GHz
> GPU: EVGA GTX 670 FTW
> HDD: 2X Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (raid 0 for main) and Samsung Spinpoint 1TB (storage)
> SOUND: Asus Xonar Xense
> PSU: Corsair AX1200
> 
> Watercooling gear:
> Monsoon Series 2 Premium dual-bay reservoir
> MCP655-PWM pump
> Alphacool ST30 120mm and 240mm radiators
> Alphacool UT60 120mm radiator
> Monsoon and Bitspower fittings
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block
> Heatkiller GPU-X3 "Hole Edition" gpu block
> Primochill Advanced LRT tubing
> Corsair SP120 PWM fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Pics


I like black and red and that's why I've gone back to it after several years of blue and then green. Looks awesome!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As promised,the GPU shroud....
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides roll over,the top side rolls over enough to come to the edge of the backplate.
> The top for the ports has not been cut as the active backplate has a different port terminal. I can just cut that in when it gets here.
> Now you can see why I was not bothered about the pink caps.
> The retainer clips will be cut off the GPU power feeds so they slip under and keep it tidy.
> 
> Now its come off again for top coat and clear coating.
> 
> What do you think?


I like it. It looks very distinctive and makes the block stand out without too much gaudiness.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And from my favorite block makers....


----------



## skupples

Those are definitely clean! Beats out the XSPC block.


----------



## DevilGear44

The EVGA Hadron Hydro. Pain in the butt to work with, but end results are worth it IMO. I was tired of all the black + red/blue/white color palettes in everyone's loop, so my absolutely-ridiculous-unicorn-vomit scheme is completely intentional.







It's ugly and that's why I love it.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> The EVGA Hadron Hydro. Pain in the butt to work with, but *in the end it doesn't even matter*. I was tired of all the black + red/blue/white color palettes in everyone's loop, so my absolutely-ridiculous-unicorn-vomit scheme is completely intentional.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics therefore it happened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's ugly and that's why I love it.


Fix'd


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> The EVGA Hadron Hydro. Pain in the butt to work with, but end results are worth it IMO. I was tired of all the black + red/blue/white color palettes in everyone's loop, so my absolutely-ridiculous-unicorn-vomit scheme is completely intentional.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's ugly and that's why I love it.


Is it just me, or are there two tubes (the green vertical on the far left, and the big yellow horizontal one at the bottom) that are not actually connected to anything?

System looks nice (in a unicorn vomit kinda way)


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Am I reading it correctly that an "external temp sensor" plugs into this, than communicates with the Aquasuite via aquabus? also, is the USB connection required? also, the aquabus cable that came with my Aquaero is 3 pin not 4 pin?
> 
> one other question... Required SLI fitting for standard 2 slot format is 41-69mm, correct? I busted out the ruler got ~43mm, just want to make sure.


The AC "High Flow USB Sensor" communicates with the Aquasuite Via both the USB & Aquabus.. When you first set it up use the USB to make sure it has the latest Firmware installed (Provided you have downloaded & installed the latest Aquasuite 2013 Software You then decide by which method you want to control the device by, Either via the USB or via the Aquabus from it's menu... It can be connected at the same time by both methods but can only be controlled Via one control method (either USB or Aquabus) not both control methods at the same time...

If you decide to control it Via the Aquabus then you can by all means disconnect the USB in which case you would then control the device Via the Aquasuite (if it's being used as a stand alone device) & through the Aquabus through the Aquaero Menu (If you have the Aquaero)....

All the AC devices come with a 3 pin Aquabus cable whether the device has a 3 or 4 pin connection (you have to buy a 4 pin cable separately if you want one I'm afraid.. The device doesn't need a 4 pin Aquabus cable to work, It just wont have a 5v standby power that is supplied by the 4 pin Aquabus cable (the 4th wire supplies a 5v current that is supplied by an Aquaero it is connected too, As the Aquaero is connected Via a USB it keeps the 5v provided by the USB)..

This is useful for the MPS Fill level sensors as it means you don't have to keep resetting the fill level sensor at each start up (if it's supplied with a constant 5v supply the device will retain all the settings you set & not loose them when you shut the PC down as it's getting a 5v supply from the USB 5v Via the Aquabus)...

Can't help with the SLi thing I'm afraid









Anyway hope this helps as regards the flow meter & Aquabus thing









N.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> B-Neg, that shroud came out great now need to see it w/ the coolant running


iirc B NEG likes to run plain distilled (or DI) + biocide, so unless I'm mistaken there's probably not really going to be anything different to see '_w/ the coolant running_'.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> iirc B NEG likes to run plain distilled (or DI) + biocide, so unless I'm mistaken there's probably not really going to be anything different to see '_w/ the coolant running_'.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will look awesome once its painted. *and with white coolant in it.*


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The AC "High Flow USB Sensor" communicates with the Aquasuite Via both the USB & Aquabus.. When you first set it up use the USB to make sure it has the latest Firmware installed (Provided you have downloaded & installed the latest Aquasuite 2013 Software You then decide by which method you want to control the device by, Either via the USB or via the Aquabus from it's menu... It can be connected at the same time by both methods but can only be controlled Via one control method (either USB or Aquabus) not both control methods at the same time...
> 
> If you decide to control it Via the Aquabus then you can by all means disconnect the USB in which case you would then control the device Via the Aquasuite (if it's being used as a stand alone device) & through the Aquabus through the Aquaero Menu (If you have the Aquaero)....
> 
> All the AC devices come with a 3 pin Aquabus cable whether the device has a 3 or 4 pin connection (you have to buy a 4 pin cable separately if you want one I'm afraid.. The device doesn't need a 4 pin Aquabus cable to work, It just wont have a 5v standby power that is supplied by the 4 pin Aquabus cable (the 4th wire supplies a 5v current that is supplied by an Aquaero it is connected too, As the Aquaero is connected Via a USB it keeps the 5v provided by the USB)..
> 
> This is useful for the MPS Fill level sensors as it means you don't have to keep resetting the fill level sensor at each start up (if it's supplied with a constant 5v supply the device will retain all the settings you set & not loose them when you shut the PC down as it's getting a 5v supply from the USB 5v Via the Aquabus)...
> 
> Can't help with the SLi thing I'm afraid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway hope this helps as regards the flow meter & Aquabus thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


Thanks, but now i'm afraid i'm even more confused...

So, I would run the USB from the meter to the Aquaero? or I would run the USB from the meter to ANOTHER usb header on the motherboard? The sensor has it's own firmware set?

I kinda assumed I would just run it via aquabus to the A6 w/ the A6 hooked up to the computer /w the USB.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks, but now i'm afraid i'm even more confused...
> 
> So, I would run the USB from the meter to the Aquaero? or I would run the USB from the meter to ANOTHER usb header on the motherboard? The sensor has it's own firmware set?
> 
> I kinda assumed I would just run it via aquabus to the A6 w/ the A6 hooked up to the computer /w the USB.


I think you can do that once you get it configured. I've been reading about the Poweradjust 2 and the Aquero 5 LT, I know it's different than what you want to connect but a few people have mentioned having to plug both of them in to the motherboard first, then when you get them configured in Aquasuite you can connect them to each other with aquabus and connect just the AQ6 to the motherboard header.


----------



## DevilGear44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Is it just me, or are there two tubes (the green vertical on the far left, and the big yellow horizontal one at the bottom) that are not actually connected to anything?
> 
> System looks nice (in a unicorn vomit kinda way)


Haha, I was waiting for someone to notice. Correct, they aren't connected to anything. but I had a lot of tubing so I used a few pieces to hide some of the Hadron's lackluster cable management.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think you can do that once you get it configured. I've been reading about the Poweradjust 2 and the Aquero 5 LT, I know it's different than what you want to connect but a few people have mentioned having to plug both of them in to the motherboard first, then when you get them configured in Aquasuite you can connect them to each other with aquabus and connect just the AQ6 to the motherboard header.


That makes sense I guess... I didn't think the device had it's own firmware... Brings Xibit to mind "I heard you like firmware so we...."

Now I just need to sort out how i'm going to plumb the CPU/chipset/vrm area. I think the smartest option is to wait until it's all in the STH-10 before ordering another 300$ worth of fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Haha, I was waiting for someone to notice. Correct, they aren't connected to anything. but I had a lot of tubing so I used a few pieces to hide some of the Hadron's lackluster cable management.


----------



## SeeThruHead

You can choose USB or aqua bus. It makes no real difference other than wiring. Going the aqua bus route is cleaner Imo because it's just one short cable to the aquaero. You'll want to connect it via USB first to update firmware then power down the pc, disconnect the USB and connect it to aqua bus.


----------



## Jakusonfire

USB is for using the meter as a standalone device. It can then be read in Aquasuite from its own TAB

Aquabus links the meter to the Aquaero and makes it an extension of the Aquaero. It will then be visible as a flow meter on the Aquaero Tab in Aquasuit and in the Aquaero on board menus.


----------



## stickg1

That's what I plan to do. First I will run my Poweradjust 2 as a standalone device, then when I get the Aquero I will link the two together.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> iirc B NEG likes to run plain distilled (or DI) + biocide, so unless I'm mistaken there's probably not really going to be anything different to see '_w/ the coolant running_'.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will look awesome once its painted. *and with white coolant in it.*
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Yes,I have buckled a little and am running a snake oil in it. Trying to find 2 ltrs of Ice dragon is proving difficult tho.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

totally missed that. I stand corrected.


----------



## ledzepp3

Does anyone here have the EK-FC R9-290X Reinforcing bracket they offer? I just saw it on FCPU, and it's out of stock. Experiences with it and how does it appear as opposed to stock?

-Zepp


----------



## wermad

Everything plumbed and working on the wire-management at this point:


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Looking for some opinion on these fans for my rads ''Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PLPS 120mm PWM''....

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23071

Basically how good are they for rads ?...Also would be nice to get personal experiences if any....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm running all NB Pro's in my rig (PL2's and PK3's) and they are fantastic fans, if a bit expensive. The good news is that they come loaded with accessories including multiple length sleeved cabling. They also look great with their dark black but still see through appearance. Mine run at full speed all the time and the sound isn't too bad (keep in mind I'm running 6 plus my dual Silverstone 180mm fans as well)...


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> There is an easy solution to that problem...log in more!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note, do these special fluids that swiftech and other manufacturers are selling make any difference in performance? I've always used distilled + silver coil + dead water and been really satisfied so what exactly do these special fluids offer?


Liability also.


----------



## aaroc

What fans do you recommend for a Watercool Mo-ra 360 Pro? it uses 18x 120mm fan total. I will control them from an Aquaero 6 Pro or a Lamptron FC2. I will not use tham at max rpm to have a quiet PC.
Locally I can get these:
http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/products/cooling/case-fan/arctic-f12-680.html
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?category_id=1655&product_id=3010
http://latam.thermaltake.com/products-model_Specification.aspx?id=C_00001470
Or I can import some.
Thanks!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

whats better for the rear exhaust fan in a system w/ 2x 240mm rads and SP120's in pull. A 140mm 1000rpm fan, or a 120mm 1650 rpm fan.

I'm guessing the slightly smaller higher rpm fan ?

here is how it looks now, I am also wondering if putting in a fan in pull on that top right slot next to the top radiator would be worth it...

Now I kind of wish I had bought one of those small rads to fit that spot.

Yes I know the red ram looks horrific with the blue mobo and blue on the SP120's, I have blue vengeance ram but the heatsink on it is way too tall to be able to fit with that tubing going over the ram.









now I kind of want to take the heatsinks off the gskill ram and spray paint it blue with an oil based paint.


----------



## HDtom

Black and red - super:thumb:


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

@ HardwareDecoder....Whichever fan has the highest CFM should be used in the rear slot....


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> @ HardwareDecoder....Whichever fan has the highest CFM should be used in the rear slot....


Yeah the xinrulian 1650's I have are 65.2 cfm

and the fractal case fans are 40.6

per the internet, so I will swap to the xinrulian thanks!

Any input on whether it is worth it to fill the empty fan slot in the case?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> whats better for the rear exhaust fan in a system w/ 2x 240mm rads and SP120's in pull. A 140mm 1000rpm fan, or a 120mm 1650 rpm fan.
> 
> I'm guessing the slightly smaller higher rpm fan ?
> 
> here is how it looks now, I am also wondering if putting in a fan in pull on that top right slot next to the top radiator would be worth it...
> 
> Now I kind of wish I had bought one of those small rads to fit that spot.
> 
> Yes I know the red ram looks horrific with the blue mobo and blue on the SP120's, I have blue vengeance ram but the heatsink on it is way too tall to be able to fit with that tubing going over the ram.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I kind of want to take the heatsinks off the gskill ram and spray paint it blue with an oil based paint.


If you go to an auto parts store you will find engine spray paint that works very well and will take a massive amount of heat. I think ford blue would do nicely.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> If you go to an auto parts store you will find engine spray paint that works very well and will take a massive amount of heat. I think ford blue would do nicely.


yeah my only concern is what holds the heatsinks on to the ram, is it some adhesive? I am just worried ill ruin some ram in the process. Having to pry the heatsink off scares me.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> yeah my only concern is what holds the heatsinks on to the ram, is it some adhesive? I am just worried ill ruin some ram in the process. Having to pry the heatsink off scares me.


Not quite sure on those, mine have screws but you could go to you tube and search for a video for that.

Here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19wUwIOnj-U


----------



## skupples

Some people soak modules in alcohol to losen up the glue though it shouldn't be needed on ram made to be disassembled.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> What fans do you recommend for a Watercool Mo-ra 360 Pro? it uses 18x 120mm fan total. I will control them from an Aquaero 6 Pro or a Lamptron FC2. I will not use tham at max rpm to have a quiet PC.
> Locally I can get these:
> http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/products/cooling/case-fan/arctic-f12-680.html
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?category_id=1655&product_id=3010
> http://latam.thermaltake.com/products-model_Specification.aspx?id=C_00001470
> Or I can import some.
> Thanks!


Will you use that rad in vertical or horizontal position? Most likely vertical but thought I asked anyway.

All three fans have sleeve bearings, they don't like to be in horizontal position when running. Usually it causes odd noises and reduced lifespan. Vertical is fine without problems. Of those fans I would choose Arctic F12, relatively quiet and unexpensive.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> totally missed that. I stand corrected.


You would normally be totally correct,just not with this rig.....


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Some people soak modules in alcohol to losen up the glue though it shouldn't be needed on ram made to be disassembled.


you mean like putting the whole chip in isopropyl alcohol?

 wouldn't that ruin it


----------



## 15goudreau

alcohol is non conductive and evaporates quite readily. That's why if you spill water on something electrical you should power it off and hit it with rubbing alcohol to displace the water. Then it evaporates and leaves no residue


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> you mean like putting the whole chip in isopropyl alcohol?
> 
> wouldn't that ruin it


See here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ew2IecbpWi4&feature=player_detailpage#t=79


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> you mean like putting the whole chip in isopropyl alcohol?
> 
> wouldn't that ruin it


I am mostly using deductive reasoning. Its not water and its not Oil so it must be Alcohol


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Okay what I don't get is doesn't alcohol ruin the PCB ? I know alcohol will ruin acrylic for example, I'd thought it would dry a pcb out and make it brittle or something.

haha it looks like I might get to use the heatgun again that I just bought to bend the acrylic to make a bracket for my res. Didn't think i'd ever use it again lol.

So it seem like my 2 options are alcohol, or heatgun... I'm not sure which one scares me more as far as ruining ram


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> whats better for the rear exhaust fan in a system w/ 2x 240mm rads and SP120's in pull. A 140mm 1000rpm fan, or a 120mm 1650 rpm fan.
> I'm guessing the slightly smaller higher rpm fan ?
> 
> here is how it looks now, I am also wondering if putting in a fan in pull on that top right slot next to the top radiator would be worth it...
> 
> Now I kind of wish I had bought one of those small rads to fit that spot.
> 
> Yes I know the red ram looks horrific with the blue mobo and blue on the SP120's, I have blue vengeance ram but the heatsink on it is way too tall to be able to fit with that tubing going over the ram.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I kind of want to take the heatsinks off the gskill ram and spray paint it blue with an oil based paint.


How you liking the psu? I just test fired both of mine to check all the fan connections







. Love the quality but the pcie cables were a tad too short and i had to make some compromises in routing the cables.

Sweet looking loop there btw


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How you liking the psu? I just test fired both of mine to check all the fan connections
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Love the quality but the pcie cables were a tad too short and i had to make some compromises in routing the cables.
> 
> Sweet looking loop there btw


The V1000? It's great, I have a ton of them in my mining farm. I wish the cables were sleeved but the EVGA G2 1000's I have with sleeved cables wouldn't have fit in the bottom with the way the tubing from the video card to the res goes. The G2 1000 is stupid big

The V1000 actually works perfectly because it puts a bit of pressure on that tube and stops the bottom video card from sagging.

Thanks for the compliment btw. I put a ton of work in to this loop and I had to custom make that connection piece between the 2 video cards.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Okay what I don't get is doesn't alcohol ruin the PCB ? I know alcohol will ruin acrylic for example, I'd thought it would dry a pcb out and make it brittle or something.
> 
> haha it looks like I might get to use the heatgun again that I just bought to bend the acrylic to make a bracket for my res. Didn't think i'd ever use it again lol.
> 
> So it seem like my 2 options are alcohol, or heatgun... I'm not sure which one scares me more as far as ruining ram


Slowly heat and peel! I did it to remove the adhesive between my cell phone screen and the glass. Just go slow and you won't ruin anything.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

This also may help you decide if it's worth doing to you ...

[TUTORIAL] How to remove G. Skill Ripjaws heatspreader
http://www.overclock.net/t/1261887/tutorial-how-to-remove-g-skill-ripjaws-heatspreader/


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This also may help you decide if it's worth doing to you ...
> 
> [TUTORIAL] How to remove G. Skill Ripjaws heatspreader
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1261887/tutorial-how-to-remove-g-skill-ripjaws-heatspreader/


Yes I saw that, that ram is a slightly older model than the one I have, I have rip jaws -X also digging around with a knife seems fail to me ?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Okay what I don't get is doesn't alcohol ruin the PCB ? I know alcohol will ruin acrylic for example, I'd thought it would dry a pcb out and make it brittle or something.
> 
> haha it looks like I might get to use the heatgun again that I just bought to bend the acrylic to make a bracket for my res. Didn't think i'd ever use it again lol.
> 
> So it seem like my 2 options are alcohol, or heatgun... I'm not sure which one scares me more as far as ruining ram


soak in alcohol then warm it up with the gun.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This also may help you decide if it's worth doing to you ...
> 
> [TUTORIAL] How to remove G. Skill Ripjaws heatspreader
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1261887/tutorial-how-to-remove-g-skill-ripjaws-heatspreader/
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I saw that, that ram is a slightly older model than the one I have, I have rip jaws -X also digging around with a knife seems fail to me ?
Click to expand...

The standard method is heat then peel to reveal. Any resistance,stop. The chips can and will come off if too much effort is required.
Slow and steady is the way here.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Slowly heat and peel! I did it to remove the adhesive between my cell phone screen and the glass. Just go slow and you won't ruin anything.


yeah I think i'm gonna have to pass, I feel failure is likely


----------



## 15goudreau

RAM is cheaaaaaaaaaap







do it you know you want to!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> RAM is cheaaaaaaaaaap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do it you know you want to!


I do want to but ram isn't that cheap and I don't like ruining stuff


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> RAM is cheaaaaaaaaaap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do it you know you want to!


Cheap is relative these days my brother...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> RAM is cheaaaaaaaaaap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do it you know you want to!


Maybe on opposites day. Ddr3 is at record high prices. Specially for modules made to go under water.

Just imagine how much ddr4 is going to be when it debutes in a few months


----------



## HardwareDecoder

The crap part is I have a ton of these: 

but the heatsink is too damn tall with the way my tubing is


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Cheap is relative these days my brother...


Compared to most of the computer parts I would say people buy....it is usually the cheapest. But I understand not wanting to ruin something that works fine already.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> The crap part is I have a ton of these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> but the heatsink is too damn tall with the way my tubing is


Do you have any spare modules that you don't use that you can try it on first?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Compared to most of the computer parts I would say people buy....it is usually the cheapest. But I understand not wanting to ruin something that works fine already.
> Do you have any spare modules that you don't use that you can try it on first?


Not really, I have a ton of ram in the house but it is all working and like I said I'm hesitant whenever I might be doing something for the first time that will ruin a good device


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> RAM is cheaaaaaaaaaap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do it you know you want to!


I wish it was so. If I was to get the 8 stick kit of 4gb sticks of g.skill ripjawz (that would also be the cheapest 8 stick kit of at least 2133 I have looked at btw), it would still end up being the most expensive part of my balls to the wall caselabs/rampage b.e. build I am working on....well, unless you add up all components of the loop of course, lol!

I hate dropping $600-$700 on ram almost as much as I hate dropping that amount on good fans


----------



## skupples

@least you can see a gain from good fans.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Someone have some blue (not huge heatsink) 1600mhz DDR3 they would want to trade for my red 4gb gskill sticks


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As promised,the GPU shroud....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both sides roll over,the top side rolls over enough to come to the edge of the backplate.
> The top for the ports has not been cut as the active backplate has a different port terminal. I can just cut that in when it gets here.
> Now you can see why I was not bothered about the pink caps.
> The retainer clips will be cut off the GPU power feeds so they slip under and keep it tidy.
> 
> Now its come off again for top coat and clear coating.
> 
> What do you think?


I am in love with your shroud. absolutely love it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Everything plumbed and working on the wire-management at this point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looking great wermad. I am too a fan of the Cougar fans. I own 16 vortex PWM versions. I have heard the ticking/whine from mine as well. I just chalk it up to having so many at the same speed that makes it sounds worse then it is. it would drive me nuts if I heard it from one. RMA time for your whiner. P.S. I am still jelly of your rig. benchmark time?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Yeah the xinrulian 1650's I have are 65.2 cfm
> 
> and the fractal case fans are 40.6
> 
> per the internet, so I will swap to the xinrulian thanks!
> 
> Any input on whether it is worth it to fill the empty fan slot in the case?


Well unless you have fan curves, the advertised specs are rather useless as they depict flows at only one point on the curve.... which you pick in the end will depend upon the relative noise and air flow. Being particularly annoyed by fan noise, I don't use any fans that are over 1200 rpm and don't let them spin at anything above 850. Under those conditions, the 140mm would be the obvious better choice. The other question is what are your interior case temps ? If they are high and you need the additional air flow, then the higher flow fan would be the better choice as it fills a need.

Regarding the spare mounting....well since you have one 140mm already, addinga 2nd would be better than both alternatives presented (assumng ofc that the mount is also 140mm)


----------



## MiiX

Anyone how knows how on earth the Mist Extreme 3x120 rads perform?... Getting one soon to start my WC build.

Aaaaand its probably only known for Norwegian people... But its probably a rebrand of something...


----------



## lowfat

Finally got around to finishing the acrylic for my ESXi server.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-11-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-7-3.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Luv that sleeve work


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well unless you have fan curves, the advertised specs are rather useless as they depict flows at only one point on the curve.... which you pick in the end will depend upon the relative noise and air flow. Being particularly annoyed by fan noise, I don't use any fans that are over 1200 rpm and don't let them spin at anything above 850. Under those conditions, the 140mm would be the obvious better choice. The other question is what are your interior case temps ? If they are high and you need the additional air flow, then the higher flow fan would be the better choice as it fills a need.
> 
> Regarding the spare mounting....well since you have one 140mm already, addinga 2nd would be better than both alternatives presented (assumng ofc that the mount is also 140mm)


couldn't tell you what my case temps are, I know my 3770k @ 4.5 + 0.65mv is hitting 60c in IBT. Both my gpu's are hitting a max of 52c. It was lower yesterday I thought after installing the sp120's but they were running 52c this morning on some max payne3 all maxed out.

gpu settings are 1150 core / 1400 mem +100MV on both.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> The crap part is I have a ton of these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the heatsink is too damn tall with the way my tubing is


Couldn't you just replace that 90 degree fitting on the CPU block with a 45 to shoot that tubing over the taller ram?


----------



## gdubc

Or even a small extension maybe.


----------



## snef

just receive some hardware and want to check if they look good together


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love the shroud on the Maximus VI.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> The crap part is I have a ton of these:
> 
> but the heatsink is too damn tall with the way my tubing is


have many different hands to play with the cards your dealt at the moment... Now I'm not sure how you feel about this idea but there are aftermarket low profile ram heat sinks that would replace those and end at the top of the stick height wise. they make them in blue too. With simple videos online its very easy to remove the corsair stock heatsinks you have now on your memory. I don't condone this based on not knowing your level of skill with voiding warranties lol. Your safer bet is selling them on Craigslist and purchasing low profile vengeance sticks with the cash. I consistantly browse Craigslist and buy new in box corsair cases corsair power supplies corsair memory... Depending on your location just type in corsair in the keywords section with no category or price points selected and you'll hit the honey hole if your around a tech friendly city. Other choice is water cooling them? I'm sure they make blocks for this ram... There was one last idea but that's the basics. You'll find out a way... If all fails you'll have to take the road many of us have sadly gone before... Reroute your tubing :'(


----------



## pc-illiterate

there are no water blocks for vengeance ram. i would just reroute my tubing. its an easy fix.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Res bits have arrived,thanks to the guys at PARVUM for taking time out to quickly run these off for me. Hats of to Justin and Shaun!.





Now...where did i put that bottle of Chloroform?.............


----------



## kpoeticg

@snef & @B NEGATIVE, both of those look amazing!!!

Edit: BNEG, i just scrolled back and saw the pick of your 290x shroud
















I was considering shrouding just the exposed area of the card in acrylic. I LOVE the way you handled it though!!!

Can anybody tell me if the Monsoon 13mm Mandrel Kit can make tight enough radius' to bend acrylic for my Supremacy, RIVE BE PCH/Mosfet blocks, 2 EK x4 Ram Blocks => GPU's?

I've heard people mention before that it didn't give tight enough bends for certain situations, and right now i'm only focusing on linking up my mobo area til i finish my casemod. I hope it's clear what i'm asking...

Really trying to get this order placed today so i can test my 2 new 290x's. I need to decide between bending or angles for my whole CPU/Ram/PCH/Mosfet area though...


----------



## 15goudreau

If the mandrel doesn't you should be able to make your own to get that tight turn down


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> If the mandrel doesn't you should be able to make your own to get that tight turn down


That's why i'm asking though. Right now (and for the forseeable future) i have my mobo running on just a mobo tray on a piece of styrofoam. I have no need for the mandrels right now if they won't make those bends.

When i eventually link up the rest of my rig in acrylic, I'm even considering bumping it up to 16mm for everything not attached to my mobo


----------



## 15goudreau

Might be worth saving the money and trying to do it yourself anyways and then spend that money on more acrylic tubing from McMaster!


----------



## kpoeticg

I was planning on just getting some E22 from PPC since i gotta order the C47's, C68's, and possibly the BP F/F Angled Fittings depending how i decide to tackle it.

I was always planning on getting the Monsoon kit when i decided to do my rig in acrylic, but right now i'm in a situation where i just need to link up my mobo for the time being and i have all my rads/res/pump on storage shelves behind my mobo.

And if the kit doesn't make tight enough bends to handle that area, then i'll just buy the cutting and measuring kits for the time being.....especially since the full kits are sold out everywhere anyway....


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I recently discovered this modding shop in Poland. He has some stuff that others don't in Europe, like white PSU connectors and black oxide M4 screws. I got a G1/4 and 6-32 tap for a very good price. Quick service too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here link to M4x30mm http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/sruby-kuliste/180-sruba-kulista-czarna-m3x06-gnimbus.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> just receive some hardware and want to check if they look good together


That is tech porn


----------



## kpoeticg

So i thought FCPU or Monsoon messed up the packaging on my last Red 6Pk of soft-tubing compressions.

But i just got off the phone with FCPU, and apparently all the soft-tubing fittings from Monsoon no longer come with colored barbs. So my 6pk of Red has Red Compression Rings and Silver Barbs. FCPU just checked their stock, and they're all like that.

I just sent an email to Geno from Monsoon to see if he can clear this up for me....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> So i thought FCPU or Monsoon messed up the packaging on my last Red 6Pk of soft-tubing compressions.
> 
> But i just got off the phone with FCPU, and apparently all the soft-tubing fittings from Monsoon no longer come with colored barbs. So my 6pk of Red has Red Compression Rings and Silver Barbs. FCPU just checked their stock, and they're all like that.
> 
> I just sent an email to Geno from Monsoon to see if he can clear this up for me....


If that is the case, then I'm done with monsoon fittings all together, or until they are changed back to the correct way, I want the base in the same color as the ring thank you, another monsoon screw up. I'm still waiting to see what his "budget acrylic" fittings look like.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well Geno already emailed me back, which says alot for Monsoon's Customer Service (took about 5 minutes)









"All our barbs have been upgraded to antimicrobial silver--in both hard and soft lines. They are still marine grade brass under the plating however."

That sux. Guess no more Monsoon for me either. Unless one of you O.G's can explain to me that there's absolutely no reason to keep silver out of my my ALL Copper/Brass Loop that is running Mayhem X1 for coolant....?


----------



## gdubc

Daaaammmnnnn! I just bought a crap ton of those fittings too and I have a lot of nickel in my loop. Maybe time to send these back?


----------



## amorello

Hey guys, I just put water in my loop and I had the res filled so I turned on the pump to make the water circulate it did once. But when I tried it again it went halfway and now there is a really bad/weird sound from the pump. Bitspower 150 tube res/ekd5 res top/ swiftech d5 pump. Any help?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Hey guys, I just put water in my loop and I had the res filled so I turned on the pump to make the water circulate it did once. But when I tried it again it went halfway and now there is a really bad/weird sound from the pump. Bitspower 150 tube res/ekd5 res top/ swiftech d5 pump. Any help?


Sounds like an airlock. loosen the pump mounting a little so a little water comes out,re tighten and start agin.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Hey guys, I just put water in my loop and I had the res filled so I turned on the pump to make the water circulate it did once. But when I tried it again it went halfway and now there is a really bad/weird sound from the pump. Bitspower 150 tube res/ekd5 res top/ swiftech d5 pump. Any help?


Don´t over tight the ek top. It might be that the pump is hitting the top causing the noise. The sealing is done by the o ring and no need to tight the several screws in with much force.


----------



## amorello

Thanks guys will try that now!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well Geno already emailed me back, which says alot for Monsoon's Customer Service (took about 5 minutes)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "All our barbs have been upgraded to antimicrobial silver--in both hard and soft lines. They are still marine grade brass under the plating however."
> 
> That sux. Guess no more Monsoon for me either. Unless one of you O.G's can explain to me that there's absolutely no reason to keep silver out of my my ALL Copper/Brass Loop that is running Mayhem X1 for coolant....?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Daaaammmnnnn! I just bought a crap ton of those fittings too and I have a lot of nickel in my loop. Maybe time to send these back?


This is exactly what I thought of when I read this first post quoted. What about the guys having Koolance or EK products in case they fail?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

But Geno says it's an _upgrade_. That means *better* guise!


----------



## gdubc

That's the case with me. I have 3 loops planned and 2 of the 3 have ek nickel blocks and the 3rd is Mips nickel blocks, so, yeah. Guess that shows I should have read the product description better. Didn't think that they would sneak that in there I guess. Damn it all!


----------



## JayTeague

I would not think that having the barbs being antimicrobial silver would be an issue. I have been running systems for years now with a silver antimicrobial silver kill coil in them without any issues that I have detected. I do not personally use a bunch of nickel plate (some elbows, etc.. - not many of the blocks as I like the copper look more) - but I do not see where that would cause an issue either.

Could be wrong, but not an issue I have seen to date myself.


----------



## skupples

wait wait wait, i thought silver + nickel = non issue.... Is the general consensus on this flipping now?


----------



## VSG

Other than the whole barb/compression color mismatch, I just think Monsoon should not have assumed we would like to have silver in our loop at all. Maybe the amount of silver is too low to affect anything nickel, but then why have it at all? Some coolants also don't play well with silver.

I emailed Gene about this, let's see. If anything, he is great at responding back.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wait wait wait, i thought silver + nickel = non issue.... Is the general consensus on this flipping now?


Consensus isnt science.

Nickel and Silver are fine.


----------



## kizwan

I believe BNEG than science!


----------



## gdubc

Who even knows anymore, lol, but if ek is going to cover my back then I guess I'll be the guinea. I am way too ready to go on all of this to change gears now. I just would feel a little more comfortable if I could've kept the silver out.


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds like an airlock. loosen the pump mounting a little so a little water comes out,re tighten and start agin.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Don´t over tight the ek top. It might be that the pump is hitting the top causing the noise. The sealing is done by the o ring and no need to tight the several screws in with much force.


I tried what you guys said, loosened the ekd5 top and water started to come out from the sides. Didn't over tighten it back, there's still noise but after 3 seconds when the water goes down a little. It comes back up when I shut down the pump.


----------



## stickg1

Tilt the case around and try to get any air bubbles out. Is your pump fastened down to the case? Can you give it a little shake to try to jostle any air out?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Tilt the case around and try to get any air bubbles out*. Is your pump fastened down to the case?* Can you give it a little shake to try to jostle any air out?


Is the pump decoupled?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> I tried what you guys said, loosened the ekd5 top and water started to come out from the sides. Didn't over tighten it back, there's still noise but after 3 seconds when the water goes down a little. It comes back up when I shut down the pump.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Tilt the case around and try to get any air bubbles out. Is your pump fastened down to the case? Can you give it a little shake to try to jostle any air out?


This. Besides what orientation do you have the pump now (sideways or up). If is not air lock then either you have something external in the pump/top causing the noise (unlikely if you flush your system prior to fill) or the pump might be faulty. Which d5 variant is it?


----------



## skupples

I ran silver + dead water (copper sulfate) (with no anti-corrosive) with EK blocks for a year. No damage, I did how ever have some build up, but it cleaned off like copper tarnish/residue.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wait wait wait, i thought silver + nickel = non issue.... Is the general consensus on this flipping now?


FWIW, Martin advises against it.

I actually have Mansoon Free Center fittings I've been using in temporary loops for testing purposes. I had no idea they have silver barbs until now. hmm


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I ran silver + dead water (copper sulfate) (with no anti-corrosive) with EK blocks for a year. No damage, I did how ever have some build up, but it cleaned off like copper tarnish/residue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmm, ive had EK nickel blocks for years with a silver coil and they looked brand new. Used distilled water as well.


----------



## skupples

Brasso works wonders!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, Martin advises against it.
> 
> *I actually have Mansoon Free Center fittings I've been using in temporary loops for testing purposes. I had no idea they have silver barbs until now. hmm*


The Hardline's or regular Softline's?

The Softline's is a brand new change. I ordered a 6pk about a month ago that had regular barbs. So it must've happened in the last few weeks


----------



## montyman03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Hmm, ive had EK nickel blocks for years with a silver coil and they looked brand new. Used distilled water as well.


Same here, both EK nickel plated versions too. I remain unconvinced it was a reactionary issue vs a small run of poorly plated blocks that were doomed to flake regardless of what was used. I drain my loop every 3-4 months though.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Im on copper / brass with silver coils + distilled.. Recently changed to monsoon hard line







Looks good and as I was already using silver, nothing has changed really.
System was clean and free of rust when I checked a week ago, after months of running with silver.

I still think it was a bad idea that monsoon has chosen to go with silver, forcing costumers to go silver or go another brand..


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The Hardline's or regular Softline's?
> The Softline's is a brand new change. I ordered a 6pk about a month ago that had regular barbs. So it must've happened in the last few weeks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


3/8 x 5/8 Matte Black Softlines - bought a dozen of them the end of January from FCPU, and they look to have the silver centers to me ...



Like I said, I have these just for temporary use. I have Primochill Rigid Revolvers for what will be my finished loop if/when I ever get around to putting on the mobo blocks and finishing bending the acrylic for it. Working six 12hr shifts a week since December (+ almost 1hr drive there & back) doesn't really leave me much time to do much of anything these days.


----------



## VSG

New discount codes from PPC
Quote:


> 'Tis the luck of the Irish to one Lucky person winning our Green Bitfenix/Monsoon prize pack during this weeeknds Give-Away! Here's wishing all our fine customers and their families a pot of gold under the rainbow this weekend. And if it comes up a bit short here are some coupons to help you save you some cash! Also, check out some of the new offerings here at Performance-PCs.com. So grab a green beer or two and Enjoy the Holiday weekend!
> 
> Spend $50-$300, get 6% off: "LUCKY14-6"
> Spend over $300, get 8% off: "LUCKY14-8"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from March 10th through March 17th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys need your help again....I want to get some pwm fans,but dnt have a pwm fan controller,and cant seem to find a pwn board in aus....I would be getting about 7-10 of these fans and would love to know what i would need to operate them with just my mobo....


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys need your help again....I want to get some pwm fans,but dnt have a pwm fan controller,and cant seem to find a pwn board in aus....I would be getting about 7-10 of these fans and would love to know what i would need to operate them with just my mobo....


I think something like this is what you're looking for. Lots of e-tailers sell it.
http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx


----------



## VSG

As long as your fans are not something like Corsair SP120 PWM, you can hook upto 8 of them onto something like a Swiftech 8-way splitter and connect it to your CPU fan header on the motherboard. Assuming all 10 fans will run at the same speed, you can use the mirror CPU_OPT header if your motherboard has it and use another splitter (5 fans each).

If Corsair SP120, get an Akasa 5-way PWM splitter or use 4 fans per Swiftech splitter when using motherboard headers. A stronger controller such as the Aquaero 6 can control 6 SP120s per channel at the moment though Darlene (IT Diva) is testing out somethings that may change that.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys need your help again....I want to get some pwm fans,but dnt have a pwm fan controller,and cant seem to find a pwn board in aus....I would be getting about 7-10 of these fans and would love to know what i would need to operate them with just my mobo....


http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter-sata.aspx

That's all you need to control up to 8 PWM fans from a CPU header via either the BIOS or your mobo software.

Do note that Corsair's PWM SP-120s don't always work so well if you try to put more than 4 of them on one splitter. See here for a little more info about that. I haven't read anything yet about the same type of issue affecting other brands of PWM fans.

edit: double ninja'd


----------



## VSG

rofl


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I think something like this is what you're looking for. Lots of e-tailers sell it.
> http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx


I know of this,but it's not available in australia....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As long as your fans are not something like Corsair SP120 PWM, you can hook upto 8 of them onto something like a Swiftech 8-way splitter and connect it to your CPU fan header on the motherboard. Assuming all 10 fans will run at the same speed, you can use the mirror CPU_OPT header if your motherboard has it and use another splitter (5 fans each).
> 
> If Corsair SP120, get an Akasa 5-way PWM splitter or use 4 fans per Swiftech splitter when using motherboard headers. A stronger controller such as the Aquaero 6 can control 6 SP120s per channel at the moment though Darlene (IT Diva) is testing out somethings that may change that.


Would be using these fans http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23071 ,i would love to get it in aus,because shipping just the splitter wouldn't be worth the cost from overseas....

USPS First Class International (15-30 days) $7.99
USPS Priority Mail International $34.75
USPS Express Mail International $40.68

and the splitter would be just $10.50....


----------



## VSG

What about other PWM splitters like the Akasa one? You can also try out using Silverstone 2 way PWM splitters and maximize 10 fans on the Akasa splitter although I don't know if that will still work.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What about other PWM splitters like the Akasa one? You can also try out using Silverstone 2 way PWM splitters and maximize 10 fans on the Akasa splitter although I don't know if that will still work.


Asaka i havn't come across in aus either....


----------



## stickg1

I use the Akasa 5-way splitter but it really only works on a CPU_OPT header. I use one of the 6 PWM fans in the CPU_FAN header to be able to adjust the PWM control properly.

I'm hoping I can still use it easily enough when I get myself an Aquero!


----------



## Ouro

I have 10 Phanteks fans but they aren't PWM. Can I use something like an aquaero 6 or swiftech pwm splitter to control them via voltage?


----------



## VSG

The CPU_OPT header is just a mirror of the CPU_FAN header though, so that's why you can't control off it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> I have 10 Phanteks fans but they aren't PWM. Can I use something like an aquaero 6 or swiftech pwm splitter to control them via voltage?


You can use the Aquaero 6 for sure, all its channels provide PWM as well as voltage control. The splitter needs to be a 3 pin fan splitter though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, if it was me I'd just make the splitter(s) myself. That way the lengths of the leads would be exactly what I needed (no excess cabling cluttering up my rig) and I could make the sleeving match everything else. It can be very time consuming, but not terribly hard to do. You would need to have the terminals, connectors, wire, stripper, crimper, heatshrink, sleeve, .... sooo there's that.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 3/8 x 5/8 Matte Black Softlines - bought a dozen of them the end of January from FCPU, and they look to have the silver centers to me ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, I have these just for temporary use. I have Primochill Rigid Revolvers for what will be my finished loop if/when I ever get around to putting on the mobo blocks and finishing bending the acrylic for it. Working six 12hr shifts a week since December (+ almost 1hr drive there & back) doesn't really leave me much time to do much of anything these days.


Yeah, def looks like you got the anti-microbial silver barbs to me.

I bought my 3/8 x 5/8 Monsoon's for temporary use just like you did while i was working on my build. I intended to get the conversion kits when my casemod was finished. Then they released the Hardlines with no options for people that don't want an extra metal in their loop. Now they've done the same with the regular fittings as well









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I think something like this is what you're looking for. Lots of e-tailers sell it.
> http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx
> 
> 
> 
> I know of this,but it's not available in australia....
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As long as your fans are not something like Corsair SP120 PWM, you can hook upto 8 of them onto something like a Swiftech 8-way splitter and connect it to your CPU fan header on the motherboard. Assuming all 10 fans will run at the same speed, you can use the mirror CPU_OPT header if your motherboard has it and use another splitter (5 fans each).
> 
> If Corsair SP120, get an Akasa 5-way PWM splitter or use 4 fans per Swiftech splitter when using motherboard headers. A stronger controller such as the Aquaero 6 can control 6 SP120s per channel at the moment though Darlene (IT Diva) is testing out somethings that may change that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be using these fans http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23071 ,i would love to get it in aus,because shipping just the splitter wouldn't be worth the cost from overseas....
> 
> USPS First Class International (15-30 days) $7.99
> USPS Priority Mail International $34.75
> USPS Express Mail International $40.68
> 
> and the splitter would be just $10.50....
Click to expand...

The SP120 issue is Corsair-Specific. So as long as you're not using Corsair PWM's, any other PWM fans should all work consistently the same. The only "Proper" PWM splitters that i know about are the Swiftech PWM PCB Splitter and Akasa PWM Wire Harnesses.

There's also the new ModMyToys PWM Splitter PCB's. I grabbed a cpl to play around with, and they don't separate the RPM signals. So you'd have to mod it to only output the RPM signal from one of the fans. Either by modding the headers, modding the cables, or cutting/drilling the PCB traces. I'm probly just gonna drill out the PCB traces on mine if i decide to use em. RPM reporting from more than one fan is useless on a fan splitter, so no problem just slicing connection right off the PCB Traces.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I use the Akasa 5-way splitter but it really only works on a CPU_OPT header. I use one of the 6 PWM fans in the CPU_FAN header to be able to adjust the PWM control properly.
> 
> I'm hoping I can still use it easily enough when I get myself an Aquero!


It works on the CPU_OPT header but not the CPU_FAN header? That doesn't make much sense. Usually the CPU_FAN is the only header that's guaranteed to actually have PWM functionality. Maybe it's a BIOS setting you overlooked?

The Akasa splitter should work just fine for you on the Aquaero. The only issue's on the Aquaero's PWM seem to be with SP120's and PWM D5's. IT DIVA made a solution for the D5's, and she's working on one for the SP120's. I'm sure she'll figure it out. She ALWAYS does lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> I have 10 Phanteks fans but they aren't PWM. Can I use something like an aquaero 6 or swiftech pwm splitter to control them via voltage?
> 
> You can't use a PWM splitter for Voltage Control without modding it to the point that you should just make the splitter yourself. If you get a ModMyToys 3Pin splitter and remove the RPM wires from all the fans except one, it'll work perfectly.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It works on the CPU_OPT header but not the CPU_FAN header? That doesn't make much sense. Usually the CPU_FAN is the only header that's guaranteed to actually have PWM functionality. Maybe it's a BIOS setting you overlooked?
> 
> The Akasa splitter should work just fine for you on the Aquaero. The only issue's on the Aquaero's PWM seem to be with SP120's and PWM D5's. IT DIVA made a solution for the D5's, and she's working on one for the SP120's. I'm sure she'll figure it out. She ALWAYS does lol.


Well I believe since the fans are powered by the MOLEX on the 5-way splitter the CPU_FAN header gets confused. I couldn't get it to work because it didn't recognize that anything was plugged in to it. Once I hooked one of the fans up directly to the motherboard and had the mirror header (CPU_OPT) hooked up to the 5-way it was right as rain. I have no technical explanation for it other than that one way worked and the other way didn't.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well I believe since the fans are powered by the MOLEX on the 5-way splitter the CPU_FAN header gets confused. I couldn't get it to work because it didn't recognize that anything was plugged in to it. Once I hooked one of the fans up directly to the motherboard and had the mirror header (CPU_OPT) hooked up to the 5-way it was right as rain. I have no technical explanation for it other than that one way worked and the other way didn't.


Lol. Well at least you got it sorted









Sounds like maybe the problem's with your motherboards fan control. Don't worry about using the splitter on the Aquaero. You won't have problems


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol. Well at least you got it sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like maybe the problem's with your motherboards fan control. Don't worry about using the splitter on the Aquaero. You won't have problems


Now with the Aquero, I was planning on getting the 5 LT. But I might regret not having the screen and remote and all the other goodies. So I'm a little hesitant, if I get the AQ5PRO then I have the thought in the back of my mind "man $40 more and you coulda gotten the AQ6PRO." I'm mostly looking forward to the software control of these AQ devices. But the screen looks sooo nice! What do you guys think? How long do you reckon one of these guys will last? What's the warranty service like with AquaComputer?


----------



## VSG

I have barely used the screen or looked at it since I installed Aquasuite to be honest, the software does everything for me.


----------



## Neo Zuko

You could always strip the bases of the silver plated Monsoon fittings. I was going to strip them but decided to use an anti corrosive (X1) instead.


----------



## Ouro

I wasn't expecting the Aquaero 6 to be so expensive. I think I'll go with the Lamptron FC5V3 instead ha ha.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> I wasn't expecting the Aquaero 6 to be so expensive. I think I'll go with the Lamptron FC5V3 instead ha ha.


In case you stick to PWM and want a less expensive solution than the Aquaero, take a look at http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx


----------



## Neo Zuko

I'm waiting to see what EKs new Ascendancy system looks like before buying the Aquaero. The Aqua Computer stuff is super nice but super expensive to match.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> In case you stick to PWM and want a less expensive solution than the Aquaero, take a look at http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx


I have one of those leftover from my H220 purchase.

Unfortunately all the fans I bought for my upcoming build aren't pwm fans. I caught the Phanteks sale a bit late so I wasn't able to snatch up any of the 140 PWM fans. Had I been more patient I could have probably scooped up their 120 fans coming out sometime this spring.

Which means I have to control the fans via voltage, correct? Still new to this whole PC building thing ~_~


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As long as your fans are not something like Corsair SP120 PWM, you can hook upto 8 of them onto something like a Swiftech 8-way splitter and connect it to your CPU fan header on the motherboard. Assuming all 10 fans will run at the same speed, you can use the mirror CPU_OPT header if your motherboard has it and use another splitter (5 fans each).
> 
> If Corsair SP120, get an Akasa 5-way PWM splitter or use 4 fans per Swiftech splitter when using motherboard headers. A stronger controller such as the Aquaero 6 can control 6 SP120s per channel at the moment *though Darlene (IT Diva) is testing out somethings that may change that.*


How serendipitous for you to offer up such a perfect segue . . . . .









This weekend after some testing on the initial PCB I made to work out the issues with the Corsair PWM fans, I thought that I could do better with a more flexible PCB with more testing options, so I revised that PCB, and just in the last few minutes finished etching it and got it ready to drill.

To go along with that, I ordered 4 of the PWM, SP120 2-Packs and the swiftech X8 splitter on Saturday from FCPU, and an assortment of parts from Digikey.

I was, at first, looking at having someone who already had a bunch of the fans do some testing, but without seeing on the scope what's really going on, that's just not a good way to get a verifiable result.

If my results are good, and I can mod the original PCB to the final component version of the new one, I may still do that to get end user feedback.

If I have the problem solved with 8 fans, I'll get 8 more and another splitter.

I think testing 16 on a channel should be enough, since if it still looks right on the scope with 16, then I know it'll do considerably more.

Assuming I get it all working, I can still sell the fans with a PCB in the "buy & sell" section, so I can justify spending the $ that way.

(Mostly I'm a nerd chick and have an OCD need to find answers)

Anyway, . . . .

Here's the new PCB ,top . . . . with the original test unit, lower:



Here's the PCB I'll be using in the Stretch Build to allow one of the Aquaero 6's to control the 3 pairs of PWM D5's:

Getting the Aquaero to work with the PWM D5's was pretty straight forward.



Darlene


----------



## Zooty Cat




----------



## VSG

Darlene, I was the one with the SP120 fans and I am still willing to help out in any way you want, if only because it sounds fun as a scientist myself.. I also look forward to buying your PCB if that helps me out control more fans per channel


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'm waiting to see what EKs new Ascendancy system looks like before buying the Aquaero. The Aqua Computer stuff is super nice but super expensive to match.


I'm going to guess it will cost just a tad bit less than the Aquaero units... It's also kinda weird that it has 8 PWM headers to quote Darlene
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's pretty hard to have any thoughts regarding something that's not yet a tangible reality.
> 
> Really, the bottom line, is that you can only have so much capability in a fairly predetermined form factor, that has to stay within a price point that allows for enough sales volume to pay for the development.
> 
> Designing/building anything that has to be able to control sizable amounts of current is a tough row to hoe when it comes to miniaturization and low heat. . . . though technology improves every day.
> 
> Also, as you've maybe seen in some of my other posts, is that the more channels a controller has with greater power capabilities per channel, the more difficult it is to make it with an onboard infrastructure which can support the total power.
> 
> An 8 channel controller with a moderate 30W per channel ability would be 240 watts from the 12V line, . . . that's 20 Amps before losses and inefficiency, . . You'd need to distribute that much current across a lot of pins, wires, and pcb traces to do it efficiently.
> 
> I expect that when we see really capable controllers of that level, they'll have to connect with 8pin EPS cables, not some lame molexes.
> 
> I'm just fortunate that I can take out of the box items that have enough potential, and then add as required to suit my needs.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have barely used the screen or looked at it since I installed Aquasuite to be honest, the software does everything for me.


Yeah on my build, the screen would actually be in a place I can't see to well from my PC chair. That's why I was thinking just get the 5 LT and do everything through software. We'll see how much $$$ I got and when I get it whether or not I can go for the 5 or 6.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Darlene, I was the one with the SP120 fans and I am still willing to help out in any way you want, if only because it sounds fun as a scientist myself.. I also look forward to buying your PCB if that helps me out control more fans per channel


Once I do some testing with the new one, and find it solves the Corsair problem, . . . Then if it's possible to mod that first PCB to what I end up with component wise on the new one, I'll send it to you

Darlene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have barely used the screen or looked at it since I installed Aquasuite to be honest, the software does everything for me.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah on my build, the screen would actually be in a place I can't see to well from my PC chair. That's why I was thinking just get the 5 LT and do everything through software. We'll see how much $$$ I got and when I get it whether or not I can go for the 5 or 6.
Click to expand...

I'd only go with the 5LT if you need more voltage controlled fan channels than an existing 6 provides.

The 6 Pro isn't that much more, and gives you PWM for when you can make use of it.

It's a much more future friendly choice.

The more I do with Aquasuite, the more impressive it seems.

Darlene


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Will the Aquaro 6 cause my Cougar Dual-x fans to make that annoying ticking sound when turning the speed now?


----------



## stickg1

Oh so the Aquero 5 LT can't control PWM fans, or doesn't do it as well as the 6 Pro?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh so the Aquero 5 LT can't control PWM fans, or doesn't do it as well as the 6 Pro?


The 5 series only has 1 PWM channel, not all 4 like the 6 series . . .

Not to mention that the 5's are limited to 1.65A max per channel, not to exceed 5A total for all 4, where the 6 is twice that with just passive cooling, and a bit more with the waterblock.

D.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Only has 1 PWM channel, not all 4 like the 6 series
> 
> D.


Then I might be better off in the long run to get the 6 PRO and carry it over from build to build.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Only has 1 PWM channel, not all 4 like the 6 series
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I might be better off in the long run to get the 6 PRO and carry it over from build to build.
Click to expand...

That's what I meant by more "future friendly".

D.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Agreed Skup, I been running these original EK Nickel Titan shorties since March last year and there is no corrosion to speak of. Of course they are stained a good bit but I've been running Mayhems red coolant the whole time so that is to be expected...


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Asaka i havn't come across in aus either....


Are you interested in doing some custom work? Modmytoys now has a 6 way pwm distribution hub. I wouldn't power 6 fans off a mobo header but you could create your own cable that pulled the ground and 12v from a molex and the rpm/pwm from the mobo.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40253

They have them in 4x or 3x blocks as we'll.


----------



## Anoxy

Any of you guys have the Aqualis Res + D5 Adapter? I thought it was strange when I assembled them today, that I had to change the O-Ring on the center port of the res so that is sat flush with the pump adapter. The stock o-ring seemed to be too thick and no matter how hard I pushed, it wouldn't sit flush.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Now with the Aquero, I was planning on getting the 5 LT. But I might regret not having the screen and remote and all the other goodies. So I'm a little hesitant, if I get the AQ5PRO then I have the thought in the back of my mind "man $40 more and you coulda gotten the AQ6PRO." I'm mostly looking forward to the software control of these AQ devices. But the screen looks sooo nice! What do you guys think? How long do you reckon one of these guys will last? What's the warranty service like with AquaComputer?


The screen is more bling than function. It's more cumbersome than just launching the software... Only really useful in a headless or semi headless server. It is useful for monitoring while gaming but the software dashboard is way better and I usually have that up on my second monitor.

I'd only recommend the 6 if you need to drive more than one pwm channel.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aemonn*
> 
> The screen is more bling than function. It's more cumbersome than just launching the software... Only really useful in a headless or semi headless server. It is useful for monitoring while gaming but the software dashboard is way better and I usually have that up on my second monitor.
> 
> I'd only recommend the 6 if you need to drive more than one pwm channel.


The only real use iv'e found for the screen is pre-launch preparation. Really helps with bleeding. Specially if you are running PWM pumps, seems fluctuating pump speed really helps with bleeding.


----------



## stickg1

That's the thing, I only need one channel currently but there's no way to know what my needs will be in the future.


----------



## PCModderMike

Going back to a D5








Also, the plugs are just there for show of course.


----------



## darwing

Just a teaser with the base acrylic got so much to do, the lighting is looking pretty good, have so much more to go it's painful doing every hole and wire specified for the case.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> You could always strip the bases of the silver plated Monsoon fittings. I was going to strip them but decided to use an anti corrosive (X1) instead.


I'm using X1 too. Running X1 in my loop is one of the reasons i don't want silver. X1 also has biocides in it. Doesn't Mayhems always give warnings not to ever add anti-corrosives or biocides with their coolants?

The other reason is obviously mixing metals. I know Silvers supposed to be less likely to corrode than Gold, but it's still an extra metal to add to the loop

Stripping the silver is something i hadn't considered tho. Good idea, but i wouldn't know how to go about it


----------



## skupples

Gold should never corrode... In theory...









I think B said the gold blocks are Gold, over nickel, over copper... So, yeah...


----------



## Neo Zuko

I was told X1 itself is an anti corrosive.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I was told X1 itself is an anti corrosive.


X1 is anti-corrosive, anti-bacterial, and surfactant.

basically... Mayhem's #1!!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Going back to a D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the plugs are just there for show of course.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is there an easy way to have the pump vertical but mounted to the floor of the case w/ that combo?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh so the Aquero 5 LT can't control PWM fans, or doesn't do it as well as the 6 Pro?
> 
> 
> 
> The 5 series only has 1 PWM channel, not all 4 like the 6 series . . .
> 
> Not to mention that the 5's are limited to 1.65A max per channel, not to exceed 5A total for all 4, where the 6 is twice that with just passive cooling, and a bit more with the waterblock.
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

Not strictly correct,the 5 has 3 PWM channels but only one is configured for 4 pin fans,the other 2 require AC's 2 pin terminals.


----------



## Juthos

Bitspower shows some love to amd:
wb for msi r9 290x *lighting*

reference r9 290x

Also a cpu wb total black even the base in mirror black


----------



## Mydog

Anyone here tried to combine the acrylic-tubing with QDC's?

Working on a rebuild here and don't want to throw away my QDC's.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not strictly correct,the 5 has 3 PWM channels but only one is configured for 4 pin fans,the other 2 require AC's 2 pin terminals.


Those extra two PWM channels on the AQ5 have a lower frequency pulse. It's not recommended to run fans on them because they output a 12V 15kHz signal, while PWM fans need a 5V 25kHz signal.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Random heads up for other WC'ers. Microcenters are starting to carry Noiseblocker fans, ranging from the Eloops, to the Multiframes (120mm). Spotted both at the DFW Microcenter earlier today. And they are selling it cheaper than Amazon/FCPU/PPCs @ ~$22 a fan if I remember correctly.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Bitspower shows some love to amd:
> wb for msi r9 290x *lighting*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> reference r9 290x
> 
> Also a cpu wb total black even the base in mirror black


That's interesting. They seem to have changed to a removable port design, much like EK, Heatkiller, etc. I wonder if that means that multi block bridges will be coming too.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Going back to a D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the plugs are just there for show of course.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there an easy way to have the pump vertical but mounted to the floor of the case w/ that combo?
Click to expand...

I plan to vertically mount mine. I bought an additional mount system that I will mount to the floor of the case, then I will mount the pump to that. So easy? Not out of the box easy.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mydog*
> 
> Anyone here tried to combine the acrylic-tubing with QDC's?
> 
> Working on a rebuild here and don't want to throw away my QDC's.


This has been discussed a few times in the 'Acrylic pipebending 101' thread and the general consensus was that Acrylic tubing and QDCs are probably a bad idea. Acrylic tubing is likely to shatter if you push or twist on it very much at all.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I plan to vertically mount mine. I bought an additional mount system that I will mount to the floor of the case, then I will mount the pump to that. So easy? Not out of the box easy.


Lets see this mounting system!


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Updated with better non terrible pics.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not strictly correct,the 5 has 3 PWM channels but only one is configured for 4 pin fans,the other 2 require AC's 2 pin terminals.
> 
> 
> 
> Those extra two PWM channels on the AQ5 have a lower frequency pulse. It's not recommended to run fans on them because they output a 12V 15kHz signal, while PWM fans need a 5V 25kHz signal.
Click to expand...

Good to know.
Glad im not hooking up a pump like I initially planned....


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> Updated with better non terrible pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Those extra two PWM channels on the AQ5 have a lower frequency pulse. It's not recommended to run fans on them because they output a 12V 15kHz signal, while PWM fans need a 5V 25kHz signal.


Out of curiosity what can the 'extra two PWM channels' be used for if not for fans?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Out of curiosity what can the 'extra two PWM channels' be used for if not for fans?


I've got two Monsoon LED plugs connected to mine. I set them to get brighter when the coolant is hotter.


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Tilt the case around and try to get any air bubbles out. Is your pump fastened down to the case? Can you give it a little shake to try to jostle any air out?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Is the pump decoupled?


I've shaken the case like you would shake a shake weight







but still the same issue. I have a 750D and I attached the whole combo to the drive cage with the brackets of the res and between the res and pump top I have 2 fittings (normal and male to male connector).


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Hey guys, I just put water in my loop and I had the res filled so I turned on the pump to make the water circulate it did once. But when I tried it again it went halfway and now there is a really bad/weird sound from the pump. Bitspower 150 tube res/ekd5 res top/ swiftech d5 pump. Any help?


Anything like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LjqCoVbZ_g


----------



## stickg1

I was thinking of painting my rads a flat gray color. Does anyone know where I can find those plastic G1/4 plugs that some manufacturers send with their rads? I want to protect the threads and inside of the rad, but at $4/ea I don't want my BP plugs to get paint on them.

Even if they're metal, plastic, or rubber. Just as cheap as possible.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was thinking of painting my rads a flat gray color. Does anyone know where I can find those plastic G1/4 plugs that some manufacturers send with their rads? I want to protect the threads and inside of the rad, but at $4/ea I don't want my BP plugs to get paint on them.
> 
> Even if they're metal, plastic, or rubber. Just as cheap as possible.


could just wadd up some paper towel ?

paper towel wrapped in plastic grocery store bag would work fine.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's the thing, I only need one channel currently but there's no way to know what my needs will be in the future.


That's the thing with future proofing technology. Lets say you spend $50 extra for the AQ6 hoping to future proof. In 2 years with the mass production of color displays driving down production costs AQ releases a full color version. Now you didn't so much future proof if in your next upgrade cycle you decide you want that color display.

I resolve my tech purchase decisions firstly by what I need and secondly by what makes me happy. It's only $50... and if your gut says you want the AQ6, then that's more than enough reason to justify the purchase. But future proofing with regards to technology is a slippery slope. It is a valid justification for a lot of people and I'm generalizing here which I typically hate... but you're on OCN, we like the cool new toys here. If you were being practical in your purchases an $80 fan controller wouldn't even be on the table let alone a $150-$220 dollar one.

Basically, you can't go wrong with either of the choices. I'm just pointing out all you need is the AQ5 (unless you're driving 15-20+ fans or more than 1 pwm channel) and for the price it works great.. but by no means is the AQ6 a bad purchase.


----------



## skupples

I would think you could simply swap out the displays, if the connectivity is the same.









Future proof is a dirty word around these here parts.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> could just wadd up some paper towel ?
> 
> paper towel wrapped in plastic grocery store bag would work fine.


That would work I suppose.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aemonn*
> 
> That's the thing with future proofing technology. Lets say you spend $50 extra for the AQ6 hoping to future proof. In 2 years with the mass production of color displays driving down production costs AQ releases a full color version. Now you didn't so much future proof if in your next upgrade cycle you decide you want that color display.
> 
> I resolve my tech purchase decisions firstly by what I need and secondly by what makes me happy. It's only $50... and if your gut says you want the AQ6, then that's more than enough reason to justify the purchase. But future proofing with regards to technology is a slippery slope. It is a valid justification for a lot of people and I'm generalizing here which I typically hate... but you're on OCN, we like the cool new toys here. If you were being practical in your purchases an $80 fan controller wouldn't even be on the table let alone a $150-$220 dollar one.
> 
> Basically, you can't go wrong with either of the choices. I'm just pointing out all you need is the AQ5 (unless you're driving 15-20+ fans or more than 1 pwm channel) and for the price it works great.. but by no means is the AQ6 a bad purchase.


Well it would actually be between the screen less 5LT ($75) and 6PRO ($200). So it's a pretty big jump. I'll have to think about it, I don't have the money for either of them anyway. I did just order the Poweradjust 2, so I'll play with that and see how I like Aquasuite.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would think you could simply swap out the displays, if the connectivity is the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Future proof is a dirty word around these here parts.


I'm no expert and could be wrong but I believe changing from monochrome to full color would require some changes in the logic that drives the display. If this is on a PCB sandwiched with the display then you'd be right... if it's on a chip located on the main PCB with all the fan headers then no, this would not work.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aemonn*
> 
> I'm no expert and could be wrong but I believe changing from monochrome to full color would require some changes in the logic that drives the display. If this is on a PCB sandwiched with the display then you'd be right... if it's on a chip located on the main PCB with all the fan headers then no, this would not work.


The screen attaches via a strip of pins, but i'm not positive either. My plebeian mind tells me it would likely just need new firmware & the new screen, since the screen is fully detachable.


----------



## 15goudreau

skupples you need to stop changing your avatar... it's messing me up


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> soak in alcohol then warm it up with the gun.


3rd option - use a product specifically designed for this purpose

Surface Cleaner - Indigo Xtreme Clean Non-Conductive Thermal Surface Cleaner - 30mL (XC-01)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13256/thr-106/Indigo_Xtreme_Clean_Non-Conductive_Thermal_Surface_Cleaner_-_30mL_XC-01.html

Here's the product description ... aka sales pitch
Quote:


> Indigo Xtreme Clean™ works better than other products. It possesses higher solvating power than isopropyl alcohol and emulsifying cleaners, yet leaves no residue. Unlike acetone, xylene, and toluene, Indigo Xtreme Clean is *non-flammable* and is *safe for most surfaces*.
> 
> Indigo Xtreme Clean is easy to use. Simply place a small amount on a clean, dry cloth, wipe the surface clean. One and done - no fussy two-step process. The surface will be left completely free of any thermal grease or stray material and ready to accept a superior thermal solution such as Indigo Xtreme


----------



## skupples

Indigo extreme is definitely one of the strongest cleaners I've ever used but it's also pretty expensive. You can get a gallon of 99% alcohol for the price of a " large " bottle of extreme


----------



## Devildog83

Future-proof? Is there such a thing? As long as you are better than the past you will probably be OK for the present, beyond that it's a crap shoot. If this makes sense you may need help, I know I do.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> soak in alcohol then warm it up with the gun.
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd option - use a product specifically designed for this purpose
> 
> Surface Cleaner - Indigo Xtreme Clean Non-Conductive Thermal Surface Cleaner - 30mL (XC-01)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13256/thr-106/Indigo_Xtreme_Clean_Non-Conductive_Thermal_Surface_Cleaner_-_30mL_XC-01.html
> 
> Here's the product description ... aka sales pitch
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Indigo Xtreme Clean™ works better than other products. It possesses higher solvating power than isopropyl alcohol and emulsifying cleaners, yet leaves no residue. Unlike acetone, xylene, and toluene, Indigo Xtreme Clean is *non-flammable* and is *safe for most surfaces*.
> 
> Indigo Xtreme Clean is easy to use. Simply place a small amount on a clean, dry cloth, wipe the surface clean. One and done - no fussy two-step process. The surface will be left completely free of any thermal grease or stray material and ready to accept a superior thermal solution such as Indigo Xtreme
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thats for paste,not thermal adhesive.

Adhesive is very _very_ strong,TIM remover may work but its hit or miss. It certainly didnt work on Enzotech's thermal glue I had on my old uni block setup.


----------



## wermad

Finished!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!


Wow! That looks amazing. Nicely done Wer.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Wow! That looks amazing. Nicely done Wer.


Thank you









Took in a whole US gallon of di. It's still going to need to be topped off as air makes it way out. Heavy monster as well


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took in a whole US gallon of di. It's still going to need to be topped off as air makes it way out. Heavy monster as well


Wow, a whole gallon. I thought mine took a lot with a half a gallon. What are your load temperatures like?


----------



## Kimir

Looking good! 
couldn't resist to use your avatar here. lol


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah sucks you can't use your QDCs but I assume (and hope) by "throw away" you mean to the FS section!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> skupples you need to stop changing your avatar... it's messing me up


Seriously&#8230;who looks at names?


----------



## skupples

I lost that Anon avatar, and people were getting testy about the Austin Powers avatar, so now it's just a picture of my meh rig.

@Strong Island 1 will send me my caselabs some day.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lookin good. Your green is growing on me. But I don't think it should be considered 'finished' until you add another double helix something like...


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!


----------



## skupples

wow, you slapped the photoshop together quick.


----------



## Doc3379

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*


LOL now that's funny.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> LOL now that's funny.


thanks as someone who just put together his first decent looking watercooled build that is the exact face I made when I saw that monstrosity wermad has


----------



## tipo33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> LOL now that's funny.


It was my reaction, almost to the tee.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I really want a purple build like wermads. yes purple I like it so what. gonna be hard to do tho I'd imagine purple isn't the most popular


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!


If you need a name for her http://www.marvunapp.com/Appendix/medusagor.htm


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!


NICE!


----------



## Anoxy

Snagged some Demciflex filters for my SM8....woof! Mediocre shipping almost costed me more than the actual filters. What a bummer.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Wow, a whole gallon. I thought mine took a lot with a half a gallon. What are your load temperatures like?


I haven't checked but from experience, it should be no different then my previous builds w/ the same cards (~40c).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Looking good!
> couldn't resist to use your avatar here. lol


Lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Lookin good. Your green is growing on me. But I don't think it should be considered 'finished' until you add another double helix something like...


These are hard to find and with FrozenQ backed up months, its not really in the works. I was lucky someone found this one (last one) at xoxide.com
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wow, you slapped the photoshop together quick.


Lol, yeah, that was really quick. Mad photoshop skills there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> LOL now that's funny.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I really want a purple build like wermads. yes purple I like it so what. gonna be hard to do tho I'd imagine purple isn't the most popular


Here's my old 690 build using Mayhems Deep Purple:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa

Beastly setup for sure. Looking good. Your CPU still says pending in your sig, so I'm curious, what are you running?


----------



## kpoeticg

Has anybody here used Shakmods acrylic tubing? I can't find 10/12mm from Mcmaster.

http://www.icemodz.com/webshop/#!/~/category/id=8680716&inview=product33708521&offset=0&sort=normal

The prices seem really decent, i'd like to know that the specs are consistent before i order 5-10m of it though.


----------



## stickg1

Purple can be cool, as a matter of fact I just tried a soft purple on mine. Just messing around until my top rad and CPU block come in. Will probably go more blue than purple.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Whoa
> 
> Beastly setup for sure. Looking good. Your CPU still says pending in your sig, so I'm curious, what are you running?


3820, I need to update my specs








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> If you need a name for her http://www.marvunapp.com/Appendix/medusagor.htm


I'm good on this name








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> NICE!


Ty


----------



## gdubc

Bneg, quite a few posts back someone mentioned the eloops being at microcenter and I noticed my local store had some available. I know you have both those and the alpenfohn fans. Which do you prefer? I am wanting to try to hold out for the newer alpenfohn models but I want to order a superflower psu from overclockers thats on special so shipping wouldn't be much more to get the fans now and also maybe an avexir kit.
I just want to hear from someone who has both when I am spending $20+ a fan, lol!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Purple can be cool, as a matter of fact I just tried a soft purple on mine. Just messing around until my top rad and CPU block come in. Will probably go more blue than purple.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, I think a nice deep blue similar to what luciddreamer124 did in his build would look fantastic with your fans.


----------



## stickg1

I already got a batch of X1 ready to go. It's similar to the color of my last build before I went purple or yellow.


----------



## Trolle BE

my pc for the moment
i had a leak a few weeks ago so i quikly had to change to my spare rad with the spare rad/tubes and coolant i had left
its pastel ice white with uv laser green
im going to change my loop in june anyway so i dont mind it being messy for a while


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> 
> my pc for the moment
> i had a leak a few weeks ago so i quikly had to change to my spare rad with the spare rad/tubes and coolant i had left
> its pastel ice white with uv laser green
> im going to change my loop in june anyway so i dont mind it being messy for a while


Is that dust on top of your GPU?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Lookin good. Your green is growing on me. But I don't think it should be considered 'finished' until you add another double helix something like...


one pump two res? single loop... how is this possible for flow?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> one pump two res? single loop... how is this possible for flow?


the second res was photo-shopped in, though you would be surprised how little flow affects temps. Though I do bet he could gain a slight drop w/ a second mcp35x.


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Is that dust on top of your GPU?


it was but all the dust is gone now
i blew it all away with compressed air when i was done


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the second res was photo-shopped in, though you would be surprised how little flow affects temps. Though I do bet he could gain a slight drop w/ a second mcp35x.


single 35x running strong for over year through several complex loops. No need for another pump imho


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Anything like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LjqCoVbZ_g


^Yes, exactly the same thing. How can I fix it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> ^Yes, exactly the same thing. How can I fix it?


If you did the same thing as that guy then you need to drain your loop and switch the inlet and outlets to your pump. You need to have the reservoir going into the inlet. If you don't then you'll likely damage or kill your pump. Also, you don't want to have everything powered up when you're filling the loop for the first time. You should only run the pump so that you don't risk overheating your components or having a possible leak fry them.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the second res was photo-shopped in, though you would be surprised how little flow affects temps. Though I do bet he could gain a slight drop w/ a second mcp35x.
> 
> 
> 
> single 35x running strong for over year through several complex loops. No need for another pump imho
Click to expand...

This. The mcp35x is a beastly little bugger, I doubt adding second one would effect his temps in anyway.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you did the same thing as that guy then you need to drain your loop and switch the inlet and outlets to your pump. You need to have the reservoir going into the inlet. If you don't then you'll likely damage or kill your pump. Also, you don't want to have everything powered up when you're filling the loop for the first time. You should only run the pump so that you don't risk overheating your components or having a possible leak fry them.


he also sealed the res before bleeding, which I think may have been the main failure. You can even see one of his tubes vacuuming.

lol, iv'e seen that video 100 times, still painful to watch, still makes me LOL.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> he also sealed the res before bleeding, which I think may have been the main failure. You can even see one of his tubes vacuuming.


Yeah, I think you're right. It looks like he created an air trap for himself and probably killed the pump in the process. He might have also damaged his CPU. The blinking LED on his board looks really bad. I haven't seen that video in a while and I'm glad it's still up so that people can see what not to do.


----------



## VSG

lol I saw that video in Jan and I still find it funny.


----------



## skupples

It has 600,000 views from this account, and it's obviously not the original uploader.
















I think the best part is how confident he is... I would love to see a reaction video of him finding out he did every last thing wrong.


----------



## VSG

Hey he took out the sticker off the CPU block so he could show the shiny surface


----------



## wermad

Well, besides running the pump dry for a bit, I don't see much fail. Usually, pump will fail after a prolong period of time running dry. Its a very novice attempt at a wc instructional video tbh. Though, i was expecting something to go boom or up in smoke to justify the word "fail" in the title.


----------



## VSG

I think the fail was more in that the original video was uploaded as (part of) a watercooling guide for newbies and then the video was.. well you know


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have not checked the link but Im guessing its the sloped foreheaded EK kit guy that nuked his pump,watching the little RoG logo saying 'K..i.l..l......................M......e...." always brightens my day


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think the fail was more in that the original video was uploaded as (part of) a watercooling guide for newbies and then the video was.. well you know


What the hell happened that the red that he expected to have in his coolant turned pink? XD Too many air bubbles?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have not checked the link but Im guessing its the sloped foreheaded EK kit guy that nuked his pump,watching the little RoG logo saying 'K..i.l..l......................M......e...." always brightens my day


yep lol

his pump sounds like a lawnmower outside early in the morning lmao


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, besides running the pump dry for a bit, I don't see much fail. Usually, pump will fail after a prolong period of time running dry. Its a very novice attempt at a wc instructional video tbh. Though, i was expecting something to go boom or up in smoke to justify the word "fail" in the title.


It's because he is concentrating so much on his narration that he is ignoring the screeching from the pump which obviously shouldn't sound like that, and that there is clearly no coolant at all going from the res to the pump.


----------



## VSG

Nah, just how it turns out in tubing. The color you see in bulk is only going to be like that in a larger body like in a reservoir.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have not checked the link but Im guessing its the sloped foreheaded EK kit guy that nuked his pump,watching the little RoG logo saying 'K..i.l..l......................M......e...." always brightens my day


That's the one.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really digging your rig







,but i will give it a 9/10....Will give it a 10/10 when you try hard acrylic again....


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you did the same thing as that guy then you need to drain your loop and switch the inlet and outlets to your pump. You need to have the reservoir going into the inlet. If you don't then you'll likely damage or kill your pump. Also, you don't want to have everything powered up when you're filling the loop for the first time. You should only run the pump so that you don't risk overheating your components or having a possible leak fry them.


Couldn't upload from my phone so I got my friend to upload it: http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/MrSubuti/media/20140311_182048_zps99eeac7a.jpg.html

Not very clear pictures, sorry, but I've seen many people using the same config, maybe I'm missing something?


----------



## wermad

One failure is that he should have jumped the psu.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Couldn't upload from my phone so I got my friend to upload it: http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/MrSubuti/media/20140311_182048_zps99eeac7a.jpg.html
> 
> Not very clear pictures, sorry, but I've seen many people using the same config, maybe I'm missing something?


Are you sure that the pump is running? Can you hear any noise from it or feel vibrations? If so then you likely have an air trap that's preventing it from getting coolant into it. You also need to make sure that you leave one of the reservoir ports at the top open so that air can escape while you fill it.


----------



## audioholic




----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, besides running the pump dry for a bit, I don't see much fail. Usually, pump will fail after a prolong period of time running dry. Its a very novice attempt at a wc instructional video tbh. Though, i was expecting something to go boom or up in smoke to justify the word "fail" in the title.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have not checked the link but Im guessing its the sloped foreheaded EK kit guy that nuked his pump,watching the little RoG logo saying 'K..i.l..l......................M......e...." always brightens my day


That's the one...

Here is the #1thing he did wrong(excluding not jumping his PSU). It's really simple. He sealed his Tube reservoir before the system was bled, so it formed a vacuum, suffocating his pump. You can even see his tubes constrict.

The video makes me lol every time.

I'm sure he is scarred for life due to all the flame he's received in the past two years. Hell, I bet he even had to make a new utube account.


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Are you sure that the pump is running? Can you hear any noise from it or feel vibrations? If so then you likely have an air trap that's preventing it from getting coolant into it. You also need to make sure that you leave one of the reservoir ports at the top open so that air can escape while you fill it.


There is a sound like something hitting a fan/an old engine trying to startup. I kept the ports open and same thing. The res is full right now, when I start it up a little water goes down and sound starts and I can see from the tubes that there's no water circulating, it's not pushing the water down.
Oh and yes it kind of vibrates and I'm sure it's working.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's the one...
> 
> Here is the #1thing he did wrong(excluding not jumping his PSU). It's really simple. He sealed his Tube reservoir before the system was bled, so it formed a vacuum, suffocating his pump. You can even see his tubes constrict.
> 
> The video makes me lol every time.


That's not just it though- the coolant did not flow by gravity to the pump even when he first poured it in the res before plugging it up. Also, the way his tubing ran I think he exchanged the inlet and outlet on the pump but I can't be sure since the pump is not seen.


----------



## wermad

You gotta be careful as the pump can cause a back pressure "burp" and cause a spill.

edit: especially on a small res like that. On my 250mm tube res, I have no issues tbh w/ that back pressure push.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> There is a sound like something hitting a fan/an old engine trying to startup. I kept the ports open and same thing. The res is full right now, when I start it up a little water goes down and sound starts and I can see from the tubes that there's no water circulating, it's not pushing the water down.
> Oh and yes it kind of vibrates and I'm sure it's working.


I would A.) make sure you have the outflow tube in the right port on the pump B.) give the res a little shake. Make sure you don't have the reservoir sealed, it needs to be able to breath while air is flushing out of the system.

That sounds like you have the outflow hooked up wrong though, iv'e done the same thing with my MCP35x2.

also,

does this seem strange?



I submitted the order Sunday night, with Fedex instate overnight (10$) they created the label last night, but it ended up not leaving until today. Now it shows that it is coming in tonight? I mean, it is only a 2-3 hour drive, but I don't see PPC intentionally spending 50$ for same day service just because they didn't get it out in their normal fashion.

(first time in 10,000's of $ worth of orders that it took 24 hours to process my order)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's not just it though- the coolant did not flow by gravity to the pump even when he first poured it in the res before plugging it up. Also, the way his tubing ran I think he exchanged the inlet and outlet on the pump but I can't be sure since the pump is not seen.


I agree that is also highly possible, i'm only commenting on what can be visibly seen in the video.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> There is a sound like something hitting a fan/an old engine trying to startup. I kept the ports open and same thing. The res is full right now, when I start it up a little water goes down and sound starts and I can see from the tubes that there's no water circulating, it's not pushing the water down.
> Oh and yes it kind of vibrates and I'm sure it's working.


Are you sure that you're using the outlet from your pump top going into your radiator? If both of the ports that you're using are labeled as "IN" then this is your problem. One has to be an outlet.


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would A.) make sure you have the outflow tube in the right port on the pump B.) give the res a little shake. Make sure you don't have the reservoir sealed, it needs to be able to breath while air is flushing out of the system.
> 
> That sounds like you have the outflow hooked up wrong though, iv'e done the same thing with my MCP35x2.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Are you sure that you're using the outlet from your pump top going into your radiator? If both of the ports that you're using are labeled as "IN" then this is your problem. One has to be an outlet.


I've checkee the manual and it seems it's mounted correctly. The pump is looking up and the top port of the pumptop is hooked to the res while the side outlet to the bottom rad.


----------



## amorello

The config/routing.


----------



## Frostedlight

Recently added in a D5 to my loop (wish I'd done this from the start because it is a night and day difference even at setting 5 compared to the XSPC 750 bayres I was using). To the above, I actually screwed up at first by putting a rad in between the bayres and the pump, I can't make out the exact order of yours because its a bit blurry but my mistake meant I tried for an hour to get water to the pump and gave after realising i'd probably have to kill the pump by running it dry to get liquid to flow.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> 
> The config/routing.


I had my rig setup exactly like this at one point and there was no issues at all....What problems are you having....?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://imageshack.com/i/m97gyvj


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The config/routing.


I'm stumped... Just make sure you don't have the res sealed off. IE: leave one of the top port holes open so it can pass air freely. If the outflow tube is hooked up to the out, then the only thing it can be is the res being sealed, or an air bubble.


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I had my rig setup exactly like this at one point and there was no issues at all....What problems are you having....?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/m97gyvj


Yes sir I know, it is







the res is full atm and water doesn't go down, there is a big air gap (totally no water) from the cpu outlet to the res top inlet. When I open a port on the top of the res to let air out while pump is off water comes out. When I do it while the pump is on the water just comes back u when the pump is off. And there are waterish noises in the pump, like somethings wrong, which it is.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Yes sir I know, it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the res is full atm and water doesn't go down, there is a big air gap (totally no water) from the cpu outlet to the res top inlet. When I open a port on the top of the res to let air out while pump is off water comes out. When I do it while the pump is on the water just comes back u when the pump is off. And there are waterish noises in the pump, like somethings wrong, which it is.


You need to drain some fluid out of the reservoir, *it 100% shouldn't be closed during priming/bleeding*. Once you get the reservoir down to a point where it's not overflowing, shake it up a bit to try dislodging a possible air bubble in the pump.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the second res was photo-shopped in, though you would be surprised how little flow affects temps. Though I do bet he could gain a slight drop w/ a second mcp35x.


Rofl lol hahaha omg your kidding right!?? Lol do people do that on here? Just photoshop in components that aren't really there?

Haha I'm still laughing but looks good even though it's impossible, you can't have a intake on one res and drain on another lol you will just fill one and drain one


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You need to drain some fluid out of the reservoir, *it 100% shouldn't be closed during priming/bleeding*. Once you get the reservoir down to a point where it's not overflowing, shake it up a bit to try dislodging a possible air bubble in the pump.


^^^^^^ This....I have had the same prob,it's just an air bubble....I have even put a fitting with a tube on the res top then blew into it (no clue if it even worked,but i think it did) you just need to empty the res abit like skupples said and shake the rig abit to get rid of those stubborn air bubbles out....


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You need to drain some fluid out of the reservoir, *it 100% shouldn't be closed during priming/bleeding*. Once you get the reservoir down to a point where it's not overflowing, shake it up a bit to try dislodging a possible air bubble in the pump.


Just a min ago that's exactly what I did and it there is no sound at the moment. When the pump is off the water is filled till the top of the res while port open (and I see there's no water between top rad and rad). When it's running a bit goes down and that's it. So is it working now? I don't see anything circulating, maybe that's the anti-cyclone adapter working its magic?
Right now I plugged everything in and guess what, pc doesnt turn on. The gpu works, there's light on the mobo too. Could the cpu be dead somehow?


----------



## 15goudreau

Not likely. The mobo has built in sensors to protect the cpu from overheating. I would check all your power connection to make sure you didn't forget one. Like the 4/8 pin motherboard connector.


----------



## stickg1

What motherboard? Do you have something connected to CPU_FAN header?

Your sure all the cables are plugged in firmly?


----------



## amorello

UD4H and 4770K. Nothing connected to the motherboard fan headers except the usual stuff like audio,usb front io etc. The fans are running from the psu. The pc turns on and off right away. Nothing on debug led either.

I keep on checking the cables, everything's in place (from what I see).


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> UD4H and 4770K. Nothing connected to the motherboard fan headers except the usual stuff like audio,usb front io etc. The fans are running from the psu. The pc turns on and off right away. Nothing on debug led either.
> 
> I keep on checking the cables, everything's in place (from what I see).


Have you cleared the CMOS?


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Have you cleared the CMOS?


Tried that now, closed the psu and unplugged it and pressed the clear cmos but nothing happened still the same issue.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the second res was photo-shopped in, though you would be surprised how little flow affects temps. Though I do bet he could gain a slight drop w/ a second mcp35x.
> 
> 
> 
> Rofl lol hahaha omg your kidding right!?? Lol do people do that on here? Just photoshop in components that aren't really there?
> 
> *Haha I'm still laughing but looks good even though it's impossible,* you can't have a intake on one res and drain on another lol you will just fill one and drain one
Click to expand...

You can stop laughing now, . . . .

Here's 3 dual res setups that are not photoshopped.

So yes, it really can be done . . .

They are plumbed in parallel so they fill and drain together to feed the dual series pumps.

Darlene


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Purple can be cool, as a matter of fact I just tried a soft purple on mine. Just messing around until my top rad and CPU block come in. Will probably go more blue than purple.


That looks a lot better then the green/yellowish you had in there







, I know it's not final, blue would probably be the nicest yes with the blue fans, but I like the purple also.


----------



## stickg1

It might end up somewhat purplish, I might not have enough blue X1 to fill the loop, and I have about a liter of purple X1 around so I might have to cut some of that in to fill the loop when I get all the parts.


----------



## ledzepp3

What sort of temps do you guys think I'd be able to get if I stuck another 290X into my loop... So it'd be an OC'd 3930K, and tri-fire 290X's. All EK nickel blocks. Pump is a single D5 (on setting 2 or 3), and a 360 and 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiators, both in push with low RPM fans.

Just wanna see what y'all think









-Zepp


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

With that much rad space i think temps should be the same,just curious what are you temps now with the pump on those settings....?


----------



## PCModderMike

I know it may seem like a repost, but I changed the sleeving somewhat, and tried to take better pics.








Same as before, plugs are just there for show purposes.




Just adding to the gallery.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I know it may seem like a repost, but I changed the sleeving somewhat, and tried to take better pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same as before, plugs are just there for show purposes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just adding to the gallery.


Mmmm tasty, Just change those terrible molex and 3 pin connectors to black ones and we are good to go









Jeffinslaw


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I know it may seem like a repost, but I changed the sleeving somewhat, and tried to take better pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same as before, plugs are just there for show purposes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just adding to the gallery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mmmm tasty, Just change those terrible molex and 3 pin connectors to black ones and we are good to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

8/10 might wanna do. But I don't have any.








Guess I could paint them....they're not going to be seen though, so not a high priority task atm, but definitely on the list now.


----------



## Angrychair

thanks Mike, now I have to resleeve my pump...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It has 600,000 views from this account, and it's obviously not the original uploader.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the best part is how confident he is... I would love to see a reaction video of him finding out *he did every last thing wrong*.


Well, to be fair, he did know that the pump should be below the reservoir but the hilarious bit is that he apparently has absolutely no idea WHY!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Rofl lol hahaha omg your kidding right!?? Lol do people do that on here? Just photoshop in components that aren't really there?
> 
> Haha I'm still laughing but looks good even though it's impossible, you can't have a intake on one res and drain on another lol you will just fill one and drain one


no no no... Some one Photoshopped it in after Wermad posted the photos, showing him how epic it would look with two reservoirs there. It helps to read the posts before commenting on them.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Just a min ago that's exactly what I did and it there is no sound at the moment. When the pump is off the water is filled till the top of the res while port open (and I see there's no water between top rad and rad). When it's running a bit goes down and that's it. So is it working now? I don't see anything circulating, maybe that's the anti-cyclone adapter working its magic?
> Right now I plugged everything in and guess what, pc doesnt turn on. The gpu works, there's light on the mobo too. Could the cpu be dead somehow?


I really don't know what to say @ this point... Did you ever bleed the system? You should have had a period of time where air was gushing out of the down pipe (return) the normal procedure is that you fill up the res, turn on JUST the pump for a split second, let it drain, rinse repeat until the water is completing the circle. Then you leave it running to purge all the air out of the system, while trying to keep the water slightly above the down tube.

As to the power issues, check all your cables, make sure the ram is properly seated, clear CMOS *while* the PSU is plugged in, make sure the 8 pin @ the top of the board is properly plugged in. make sure you have a fan in the CPU_header.

Can you by any chance make a short video of what it sounds like & what the pump is doing? It should be a quiet hum.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I know it may seem like a repost, but I changed the sleeving somewhat, and tried to take better pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same as before, plugs are just there for show purposes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just adding to the gallery.


Really great looking Mike! All of those contrasting parts and shiny bits are making my nerd bits all tingly with joy


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> With that much rad space i think temps should be the same,just curious what are you temps now with the pump on those settings....?


My loop actually isn't running at this point, but I've got a chance to snag another 290X with the block I want. I just wanted an opinion or two on how the temperatures might be, I mean I can always jump the voltages for the fans up from 5 to 7 volts if need be.

-Zepp


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I know it may seem like a repost, but I changed the sleeving somewhat, and tried to take better pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same as before, plugs are just there for show purposes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just adding to the gallery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really great looking Mike! All of those contrasting parts and shiny bits are making my nerd bits all tingly with joy
Click to expand...

Oooh my.








Thanks for the compliment!


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> no no no... Some one Photoshopped it in after Wermad posted the photos, showing him how epic it would look with two reservoirs there. It helps to read the posts before commenting on them.


Oh hush you, there are over 2 pages a day by the time I post something it's usually already bypassed and nobody saw it lol I'm stoping posting my rig pics on this thread cause it goes so fast that either A) nobody cares or B) nobody sees or C) my work sucks and nobody has the heart to tell me lol

And yes it looks good with two frozen q reservoirs, I already miss mine


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Oh hush you, there are over 2 pages a day by the time I post something it's usually already bypassed and nobody saw it lol I'm stoping posting my rig pics on this thread cause it goes so fast that either A) nobody cares or B) nobody sees or C) my work sucks and nobody has the heart to tell me lol
> 
> And yes it looks good with two frozen q reservoirs, I already miss mine


I personally enjoy everyone's build in this thread. And I go through every post in it. Doesn't mean I have to comment on every single person's rig that is posted and clutter this thread with an extra 20 pages per day, rather than two.


----------



## lowfat

Filled the loop on my server. Unfortunately I remembered that there was no thermal paste on the CPU a few minutes after finished bleeding.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-19.jpg.html


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome build!








How many meters of felxible tubing did U use in your build?
I see one non green fan in the upper left section or at least without light.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Filled the loop on my server. Unfortunately I remembered that there was no thermal paste on the CPU a few minutes after finished bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-19.jpg.html


Lol, that SUCKS!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Awesome build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many meters of felxible tubing did U use in your build?
> *I see one non green fan in the upper left section or at least without light*.


That's one of the power supplies.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Filled the loop on my server. Unfortunately I remembered that there was no thermal paste on the CPU a few minutes after finished bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-19.jpg.html


Haha







That sucks.. I did the same thing once, but was with soft tubing, so could just lift the CPU block without flushing the loop.
Cant do that with acrylics







Looking good though!







good thing you remembered before powering on the system and thinking "*** is up with my temps?" and maybe even damaging your chip.
Nice bends, nice sleeving and nice clean build so fare


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Filled the loop on my server. Unfortunately I remembered that there was no thermal paste on the CPU a few minutes after finished bleeding.


Great little project you have their, colours really suit. But really it is more fortunate that you remembered there was no thermal paste, that would of been the unfortunate surprise that you would defiantly not want when powering on a newly finished build


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Yes sir I know, it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the res is full atm and water doesn't go down, there is a big air gap (totally no water) from the cpu outlet to the res top inlet. When I open a port on the top of the res to let air out while pump is off water comes out. When I do it while the pump is on the water just comes back u when the pump is off. And there are waterish noises in the pump, like somethings wrong, which it is.


Just off the top of my head is there any way you might have reversed the polarity of the wires to the pump so it is trying to push water out of the inlet?


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That's interesting. They seem to have changed to a removable port design, much like EK, Heatkiller, etc. _I wonder if that means that multi block bridges will be coming too_.


Yes, btw you're a great observer


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You can bleed with the fillport of a res sealed up,I had to do it for both the loops in Arctic Water. Seeing as they were both below the waterline, it was necessity.

Personally,I would check the block for debris or ports that are not finished properly.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Oh hush you, there are over 2 pages a day by the time I post something it's usually already bypassed and nobody saw it lol I'm stoping posting my rig pics on this thread cause it goes so fast that either A) nobody cares or B) nobody sees or C) my work sucks and nobody has the heart to tell me lol
> 
> And yes it looks good with two frozen q reservoirs, I already miss mine


I've read all of the posts in this thread and in the beginning it was more pictures then talking, it seems that it's more discussing then picture posting now going on, I would like to see more pictures and less talking personally, and please everyone don't refrain from posting pictures in this thread whatever you may think of your build.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> I've read all of the posts in this thread and in the beginning it was more pictures then talking, it seems that it's more discussing then picture posting now going on, I would like to see more pictures and less talking personally, and please everyone don't refrain from posting pictures in this thread whatever you may think of your build.


I like how you said that and didnt add a picture at the end


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Trashed the LED strip and installed clear cold cathodes. The loop looks much with the cathode than with the LEDs strip.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Oh hush you, there are over 2 pages a day by the time I post something it's usually already bypassed and nobody saw it lol I'm stoping posting my rig pics on this thread cause it goes so fast that either A) nobody cares or B) nobody sees or C) my work sucks and nobody has the heart to tell me lol
> 
> And yes it looks good with two frozen q reservoirs, I already miss mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've read all of the posts in this thread and in the beginning it was more pictures then talking, it seems that it's more discussing then picture posting now going on, I would like to see more pictures and less talking personally, and please everyone don't refrain from posting pictures in this thread whatever you may think of your build.
Click to expand...

This is a club also,parts discussion and loop theory are fine.
That said,endless talk on fans and hubs is a bit grating over and over.

If you have specific questions or require technical advice then create a thread,link it here and we will answer.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> I've read all of the posts in this thread and in the beginning it was more pictures then talking, it seems that it's more discussing then picture posting now going on, I would like to see more pictures and less talking personally, and please everyone don't refrain from posting pictures in this thread whatever you may think of your build.


You want pictures? I've got pictures.









Got a new 4960x CPU.
Undo the screws off the Raystorm block.

Move the Raystorm to one side and clean the thermal paste off the 3930k being careful to keep the heavy block away from the CPU.

Drop the CPU and it's corner catches the pins with the result arrowed in red.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> You want pictures? I've got pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new 4960x CPU.
> Undo the screws off the Raystorm block.
> 
> Move the Raystorm to one side and clean the thermal paste off the 3930k being careful to keep the heavy block away from the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> Drop the CPU and it's corner catches the pins with the result arrowed in red.










Ouch, bummer man.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I know it may seem like a repost, but I changed the sleeving somewhat, and tried to take better pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same as before, plugs are just there for show purposes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just adding to the gallery.


Looking good Mike!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I know it may seem like a repost, but I changed the sleeving somewhat, and tried to take better pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same as before, plugs are just there for show purposes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just adding to the gallery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good Mike!
Click to expand...

Thanks!


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> You want pictures? I've got pictures.


Uff, that sucks







can it be saved? a needle and a magnifying glass can often save out of place pins.
Always hard to see how bad they are on pics.. hope you get it sorted! not the cheapest mobo to replace.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I know it may seem like a repost, but I changed the sleeving somewhat, and tried to take better pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same as before, plugs are just there for show purposes.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just adding to the gallery.


Nice work Mike so clean!


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> I've checkee the manual and it seems it's mounted correctly. The pump is looking up and the top port of the pumptop is hooked to the res while the side outlet to the bottom rad.


I have that top and you have it hooked up correctly.

I have no idea if this is possible but maybe someone who knows more than me can answer definitively. If the polarity of the power to the pump is reversed does the motor run in reverse?

If this is possible it's the only explanation I can think of other than just saying you have a bad pump. If true, it means something is up with the wiring to your pump... either from your power source or the wiring of the pump itself.

How are you powering the pump to fill your loop? Was your pump wiring custom sleeved either by you or the shop you purchased it from?


----------



## Aemonn

Nevermind. Someone already pointed it out. This thread moves too fast.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> You want pictures? I've got pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new 4960x CPU.
> Undo the screws off the Raystorm block.
> 
> Move the Raystorm to one side and clean the thermal paste off the 3930k being careful to keep the heavy block away from the CPU.
> 
> Drop the CPU and it's corner catches the pins with the result arrowed in red.


Iv'e used mechanical pencils to fix bent pins in the past. You use the hollow point to bend them back, they don't need to be perfect, just enough to get them back into contact.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Uff, that sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can it be saved? a needle and a magnifying glass can often save out of place pins.
> Always hard to see how bad they are on pics.. hope you get it sorted! not the cheapest mobo to replace.


I often just use a magnifying glass and toothpicks to save mobos with bent pins, and i'm yet to be disappointed. You need very steady hands, precision, and patience.

Good luck PinzaC55


----------



## Neo Zuko

My hopefully final new Case Labs SM8 build plan, totally redesigned for the best airflow.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Filled the loop on my server. Unfortunately I remembered that there was no thermal paste on the CPU a few minutes after finished bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-19.jpg.html


That sucks. If were nylon, you could probably pull it off and tim it up but acrylic, gonna have to drain the loop. Very nice color on the liquid there you've achieved







.Really blends in the mb quite nicely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Awesome build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many meters of felxible tubing did U use in your build?
> I see one non green fan in the upper left section or at least without light.


Probably used ~4-5m of Primochill Advance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> [/SPOILER]I see one non green fan in the upper left section or at least without light.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's one of the power supplies.
Click to expand...

This. Rather then waiting on Lepa to rma my 1600w psu (its been over a month







), I've decided to get two psu's. Also prepares me for Hawaii down the road.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I often just use a magnifying glass and toothpicks to save mobos with bent pins, and i'm yet to be disappointed. You need very steady hands, precision, and patience.
> 
> Good luck PinzaC55


Many thanks! I am either going to get a working PC or a new motherboard so it's not a disaster on a cosmic scale. Either way I have learned a lesson.


----------



## stickg1

I bought a stack of bent pin Z77 boards locally last year. Fixed 9/10 of them no problem with a razor knife. One I couldn't fix I sold for parts and the buyer fixed it in a matter of minutes. I had missed a pin.


----------



## Kurry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> My hopefully final new Case Labs SM8 build plan, totally redesigned for the best airflow. Not a single rad flows into another, all rads get fresh air, 12x120 total rad real estate:


Best airflow is achieved with having an external radiator







I kinda dont like the idea of having a pc with a total height of about 1metre, therefor 12x120 also isnt that much. You could just rotate the radiators 90 degrees and have at least 4 of them next to each other, to get use of all the empty space in the bottom.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I bought a stack of bent pin Z77 boards locally last year. Fixed 9/10 of them no problem with a razor knife. One I couldn't fix I sold for parts and the buyer fixed it in a matter of minutes. I had missed a pin.


I'm with you my brother... My HTPC and Media Servers both came with bent pins off the recycle rack... Two years strong and counting...







...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Filled the loop on my server. Unfortunately I remembered that there was no thermal paste on the CPU a few minutes after finished bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-19.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Looking great, @lowfat & @wermad. I think the colour of the coolant *lowfat* used will look nice in *wermad* rig because it matched with the Cougar fans.


----------



## ranger82

Just did a haswell build 4770k and went with a red theme.

http://s208.photobucket.com/user/as...81936935812_2019651854_n_zpsf67698be.jpg.html


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranger82*
> 
> Just did a haswell build 4770k and went with a red theme.
> 
> http://s208.photobucket.com/user/as...81936935812_2019651854_n_zpsf67698be.jpg.html


That looks pretty good. What tubing are you using?


----------



## ranger82

primochill 7/16th x 5/8's. I have always been a fan of XSPC, but wanted to try something different.


----------



## Dzuks

Still a working progress.


----------



## ranger82

Very nice and clean to


----------



## acanom

Finished my first loop today, I´m quite pleased so far, but I´m a bit suprised how loud the pump is. I bled all the bubbles already. I´ll try tuning it down to 3, it´s on 4 right now.





And still some work to do with the lighting


----------



## Anoxy

Man, loop planning with reverse ATX is proving to be much more of a pain in the arse than expected.


----------



## VSG

How come?


----------



## lowfat

Ended up not liking the plastic mesh on the back of the Monsoon DDC bay reservoir. So I pulled it out. Think it looks better naked anyways.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-21.jpg.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Man, loop planning with reverse ATX is proving to be much more of a pain in the arse than expected.


It worked out perfectly for me.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Finished my first loop today, I´m quite pleased so far, but I´m a bit suprised how loud the pump is. I bled all the bubbles already. I´ll try tuning it down to 3, it´s on 4 right now.
> 
> 
> 
> And still some work to do with the lighting


Where is your pump located? I see you have two reservoirs, but I don't see where the pump is, so it's hard to know what might be causing your issue. Also, I'm guessing you have a D5 with speed control.


----------



## Doc3379

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> My hopefully final new Case Labs SM8 build plan, totally redesigned for the best airflow. Not a single rad flows into another, all rads get fresh air, 12x120 total rad real estate:


Overkill much? Are you planning to hook your home HVAC into that?!?


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Where is your pump located? I see you have two reservoirs, but I don't see where the pump is, so it's hard to know what might be causing your issue. Also, I'm guessing you have a D5 with speed control.


Yes it´s a D5, with the screw to change between 5 speedsettings

The pump is located in the back on the mounting bracket, that comes with the Enthoo Prime, you can see where the white tubing goes to the back

More or less exactly like this, I even got the same outlet


I get the feeling that the outlet might be the reason....


----------



## 15goudreau

Try stuffing some rubber between the pump and the chassis. It might make it quieter.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Yes it´s a D5, with the screw to change between 5 speedsettings
> 
> The pump is located in the back on the mounting bracket, that comes with the Enthoo Prime, you can see where the white tubing goes to the back
> 
> More or less exactly like this, I even got the same outlet
> 
> 
> I get the feeling that the outlet might be the reason....


With it setup like that it wouldn't be difficult for you to have an air trap that's causing your pump to be noisy. If you can, try shaking it a bit to see if the noise subsides or changes. This will usually indicate that you still have some air trapped in it.


----------



## acanom

I was tilting the case backwards,forward,sideways and shook it while bleeding, during the process there was often a gurgling sound, but now it´s gone completly and shaking the case doesn´t do anything.

But if I move the drain a bit I can here a little wooshing noise, as if the pump pulls in air.

But there aren´t any airbubble visible anymore, also not when I change the pumpspeed or switch it on and off

Maybe I´m just oversensitive.

It´s a constant noise, most likely from the motor of the pump. Like a fan on high RPM.

I have nothing to compare it to


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How come?


I mean, it's fairly smooth around the motherboard, but that line from my top 480 rad, all the way to the bottom port on my front 360 rad (green) sucks. It will be hidden out of sight in the back behind the radiators, but it's still annoying that I have to make that run.

Then my only option for a functional drain port is the bottom of the front 360 (purple).


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Awesome build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many meters of felxible tubing did U use in your build?
> I see one non green fan in the upper left section or at least without light.


That would be his PSU fan.


----------



## skupples

got my packages in today, which finishes off the new hardware for the STH-10 that @Strong Island 1 will send me some day.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got my packages in today, which finishes off the new hardware for the STH-10 that @Strong Island 1 will send me *some day*.




Why the delay if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why the delay if you don't mind me asking?


since i trust him, i'm leaning towards extremely busy @ work + postpartum depression.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Before:









After:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> since i trust him, i'm leaning towards extremely busy @ work + postpartum depression.


My build log is available for you to look over














XD

Its a huge beast, be prepared


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


I like the cleaned up loop a lot, but looks like you have a bit of flattening in the tubing to make the bends. Might want to consider trying something like this to help the tube keep its shape. I suspect it would look even better than it does.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I like the cleaned up loop a lot, but looks like you have a bit of flattening in the tubing to make the bends. Might want to consider trying something like this to help the tube keep its shape. I suspect it would look even better than it does.


Thanks!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My build log is available for you to look over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XD
> 
> Its a huge beast, be prepared


I have 3x 480x60 & 1 360x30 going into it for now.









gotta save room for the dual PSU, i'm really surprised you are only running one.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> You want pictures? I've got pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new 4960x CPU.
> Undo the screws off the Raystorm block.
> 
> Move the Raystorm to one side and clean the thermal paste off the 3930k being careful to keep the heavy block away from the CPU.
> 
> Drop the CPU and it's corner catches the pins with the result arrowed in red.


nooooooooooooooo.com/


----------



## skupples




----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> Overkill much? Are you planning to hook your home HVAC into that?!?


"Brian, can I see that paper for a sec? Huh, that's odd, I thought that would be big news."

"You thought what would be big news?"

"Well I posted this on OCN. There seems to be an absence of a certain go big or go home piece, a headline regarding mass awareness of a certain excess variety?"

"What are you talking about?"

"Oh have you not heard? It was my understanding that everyone had heard."


----------



## BramSLI1

This is OCN afterall.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Yes it´s a D5, with the screw to change between 5 speedsettings
> 
> The pump is located in the back on the mounting bracket, that comes with the Enthoo Prime, you can see where the white tubing goes to the back
> 
> More or less exactly like this, I even got the same outlet
> 
> 
> I get the feeling that the outlet might be the reason....


I think you got the wrong port on that top for the inlet. Is that a ek top? If so the correct inlet is the central one not the one on the top diagonal....


----------



## hehenri




----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice 350


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is OCN afterall.


was waiting for it...

The god to slogan 'round these here parts...

Should I run my Vanilla Titans @ 1.4v? "Yeah, why not? This is OCN after all"

Should I run my 3930k @ 1.6V? "Yeah, why not? This is ocn after all!"


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hehenri*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Looks nice, if you get a few angled fittings you can make it alot cleaner and probably flow better with less tube!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have 3x 480x60 & 1 360x30 going into it for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gotta save room for the dual PSU, i'm really surprised you are only running one.


Running *two* Cooler Master V1000 power supplies













After Lepa kept stalling (and still is), I decided to get two psu for my setup. V1000 got great marks from jg.com and I love the ribbon cables. Saves me the time, cost, and hassle of sleeving the cables







.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Running *two* Cooler Master V1000 power supplies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After Lepa kept stalling (and still is), I decided to get two psu for my setup. V1000 got great marks from jg.com and I love the ribbon cables. Saves me the time, cost, and hassle of sleeving the cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


The V1000 is fantastic. Fully modular and can deliver 83A on its single 12V rail.

I'd also like to be the thousandth person to tell you that your rig looks stunning!


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think you got the wrong port on that top for the inlet. Is that a ek top? If so the correct inlet is the central one not the one on the top diagonal....


That´s not my pump







Just an example how I installed mine









But thank you









The X Top has 1 inlet and 2 possible outlets.http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842775.pdf
I checked, and everything is correct in my case

If I would have used the worng port would the pump even work?^^


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah the Cooler Master v's are nice, Im very happy w/ my v850


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> The V1000 is fantastic. Fully modular and can deliver 83A on its single 12V rail.
> 
> I'd also like to be the thousandth person to tell you that your rig looks stunning!


Thank you









The V1000 is fantastic! Its refreshing to have 100% modular and no need to sleeve. I got a used one for $150 and bought a new one for $210 with a $30 MIR. I hope to sell the Lepa once the replacement gets in. With this setup, I wasn't forced to sell one of my rads.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> That´s not my pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just an example how I installed mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The X Top has 1 inlet and 2 possible outlets.http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842775.pdf
> I checked, and everything is correct in my case
> 
> If I would have used the worng port would the pump even work?^^


The pump would still work because it has power going to it, but the fluid wouldn't go anywhere. That appeared to be your issue and why I thought that you might have been using the wrong port. You do seem to be using the right ports though. The only thing I can think of is that you must have quite an air trap that's preventing the coolant from moving or you have an obstruction of some kind. You may have to drain your reservoir and then take your loop apart to inspect each component to make sure that they aren't obstructed in any way.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The pump would still work because it has power going to it, but the fluid wouldn't go anywhere. That appeared to be your issue and why I thought that you might have been using the wrong port. You do seem to be using the right ports though. The only thing I can think of is that you must have quite an air trap that's preventing the coolant from moving or you have an obstruction of some kind. You may have to drain your reservoir and then take your loop apart to inspect each component to make sure that they aren't obstructed in any way.


Sorry if I gave the wrong impression, I don´t have an obstruction or something.

The coolant is moving perfectly fine, I have a flow indicator installed and the wheel spins, adjusts to pumpspeeds and so on.

I only feel, that the pump is kinda loud.

And now it suddenly started to make kind of a whining noise. But it seems, that is more like some kind of ressonance in the case

The loop is already running for 3 days now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Sorry if I gave the wrong impression, I don´t have an obstruction or something.
> 
> The coolant is moving perfectly fine, I have a flow indicator installed and the wheel spins, adjusts to pumpspeeds and so on.
> 
> I only feel, that the pump is kinda loud.
> 
> And now it suddenly started to make kind of a whining noise. But it seems, that is more like some kind of ressonance in the case
> 
> The loop is already running for 3 days now.


OK, then what you may need to do is use something to prevent the pump from vibrating in your case. Do you still have any of the foam that came with your pump? If so then you can try using some it to keep your pump from vibrating against your case.


----------



## ranger82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Sorry if I gave the wrong impression, I don´t have an obstruction or something.
> 
> The coolant is moving perfectly fine, I have a flow indicator installed and the wheel spins, adjusts to pumpspeeds and so on.
> 
> I only feel, that the pump is kinda loud.
> 
> And now it suddenly started to make kind of a whining noise. But it seems, that is more like some kind of ressonance in the case
> 
> The loop is already running for 3 days now.


I would say you might have a bad pump motor. I replace electric motors all the time and have found that when they start to make sounds like that it isn't good. My I suggest you test for OHMS on the 4 pin molex. This would let you know if the windings are starting to go bad.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, then what you may need to do is use something to prevent the pump from vibrating in your case. Do you still have any of the foam that came with your pump? If so then you can try using some it to keep your pump from vibrating against your case.


It´s definitely the pump vibrating in the case, I just undid the screws and liftet the pump up and the whining nopise was gone.

Now I´ll have to look for something to put underneath it,

I still ahve all the packing materials. Thanks for the tip. I´m going to figure that one out tomorrow.

Nonetheless, the pump seems a bit too loud for me. Are there any highquality videos of a D5 running to compare the noise?


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranger82*
> 
> I would say you might have a bad pump motor. I replace electric motors all the time and have found that when they start to make sounds like that it isn't good. My I suggest you test for OHMS on the 4 pin molex. This would let you know if the windings are starting to go bad.


The pump is brand new, that really would be a disappointment.

If I test the resistance on the molex, I think that´s what you mean by OHMS, how do I read the results, what am I looking for?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> It´s definitely the pump vibrating in the case, I just undid the screws and liftet the pump up and the whining nopise was gone.
> 
> Now I´ll have to look for something to put underneath it,
> 
> I still ahve all the packing materials. Thanks for the tip. I´m going to figure that one out tomorrow.
> 
> Nonetheless, the pump seems a bit too loud for me. Are there any highquality videos of a D5 running to compare the noise?


I have a fixed-speed version of this pump that constantly runs at about setting 4. With 12 fans all running at about 1200RPM I can't hear my pump at all. I hope that helps you to understand if your pump is bad or not. If you have a vario version have you tried turning it down?


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have a fixed-speed version of this pump that constantly runs at about setting 4. With 12 fans all running at about 1200RPM I can't hear my pump at all. I hope that helps you to understand if your pump is bad or not. If you have a vario version have you tried turning it down?


`

Hm, I have my fans at 900 RPM, so that I can´t hear my fans at all, so I´ll here only the pump.

If I adjust the speed, the higher I go the sound gets more of a high buzzing "sssrrrrrrrrrr" and if I turn down the speed it gets more like a deep humming "brrrrr".

But the noise level is more or less the same.

Sorry for highjacking the thread like this.

Thanks again for all of your answers, I´ll put something under the pump to buffer the vibrations and will give it a bit more to bleed out completely.

The next step would be to skip out on the drainport, cause like I said before I´ll suspect it to suck a little bit of air in some way

Edit: After sitting next to it for a while now, it definitely got better now that I dislodged the pump from the mounting bracket.

Still a constant deep rumbling sound from the pump "brrrrrrrrrr"


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> `
> 
> Hm, I have my fans at 900 RPM, so that I can´t hear my fans at all, so I´ll here only the pump.
> 
> If I adjust the speed, the higher I go the sound gets more of a high buzzing "sssrrrrrrrrrr" and if I turn down the speed it gets more like a deep humming "brrrrr".
> 
> But the noise level is more or less the same.


So the tone of the sound is changing, but not the volume of the sound, correct?

And for what it's worth, I only run D5's, and I can't hear any of them!!! But I also only run the Alphacool branded ones personally.


----------



## ranger82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> The pump is brand new, that really would be a disappointment.
> 
> If I test the resistance on the molex, I think that´s what you mean by OHMS, how do I read the results, what am I looking for?


When you put both leads from volt meter to both pins on molex as long as you get a number you are good. If it reads 0 then game over. Also check how many amps the motor is drawing. Check what it is rated for under full load and then put pump under full load and see what you get and compare. Lower or higher amps also means windings are failing not getting enough voltage etc...


----------



## skupples

should really make a video, we will be able to judge the sound much easier that way.


----------



## ranger82

I also have a D5 but its a newer model as it is a PWN version.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=g30c107s1802

It is super quiet even when Im pushing 4.5GHz

Also after reading your other posts it just sounds like the pump is just vibrating off the case. You could try some rubber washers to help with that.


----------



## stickg1

Oh you got the limited edition "PWN" series?! Sweet!


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> So the tone of the sound is changing, but not the volume of the sound, correct?
> 
> And for what it's worth, I only run D5's, and I can't hear any of them!!! But I also only run the Alphacool branded ones personally.


Yeah correct, only the tone is changing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> should really make a video, we will be able to judge the sound much easier that way.


I´ll try tomorrow, but I really don´t now if the mic of my phone is good enough
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranger82*
> 
> I also have a D5 but its a newer model as it is a PWN version.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=g30c107s1802
> 
> It is super quiet even when Im pushing 4.5GHz
> 
> Also after reading your other posts it just sounds like the pump is just vibrating off the case. You could try some rubber washers to help with that.


The vibrations made it worse but the pump is not quiet at all, even if I´m lifting it up completely its a deep rumbling sound, like an engine for example

Will try to put a buffer under it tomorrow.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh you got the limited edition "PWN" series?! Sweet!


For a second there you got me believing that i had some special stuff for my loop









Regarding the vibration, here is my fix for that;


----------



## SeriousBlack

Well I've just finished installing the cooling in mine and I'm pretty happy with it.

The CPU is cooled by the black loop - black tubing with Mayhems Pure Black liquid.
The GPU's are cooled by the white loop - This is clear tubing with Mayhems Ice White liquid.

Apologies for the poor pics, late at night, terrible lighting and a crap photographer. I'm contemplating adding some interior lighting now and spraying the ram covers white.

One things for sure, after this build, it will be a while before I do any upgrading!


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> It´s definitely the pump vibrating in the case, I just undid the screws and liftet the pump up and the whining nopise was gone.
> 
> *Now I´ll have to look for something to put underneath it,*
> 
> I still ahve all the packing materials. Thanks for the tip. I´m going to figure that one out tomorrow.
> 
> Nonetheless, the pump seems a bit too loud for me. Are there any highquality videos of a D5 running to compare the noise?


http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-Anti-Vibration-Damper-Pad-Noise-Destructor-V11_900.html


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranger82*
> 
> I also have a D5 but its a newer model as it is a PWN version.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=g30c107s1802
> 
> It is super quiet even when Im pushing 4.5GHz
> 
> Also after reading your other posts it just sounds like the pump is just vibrating off the case. You could try some rubber washers to help with that.


it's on FCPU also: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13152/ex-pmp-136/Phobya_Noise_Destructor_V1_Universal_Pump_Base_52128.html?tl=c107s156b189#blank (in the event you weren't in the UK







)


----------



## MR-e

Some maintenance before transferring into a 350D

Come take a look through my log *here!

*


----------



## skupples

I just use a piece of the left over foam rubber grommet insert that comes inside of the radiator grommets.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> For a second there you got me believing that i had some special stuff for my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the vibration, here is my fix for that;


Nice fix, I have 2 caps, left, might try it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-Anti-Vibration-Damper-Pad-Noise-Destructor-V11_900.html


Ordered it already thank you







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> it's on FCPU also: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13152/ex-pmp-136/Phobya_Noise_Destructor_V1_Universal_Pump_Base_52128.html?tl=c107s156b189#blank (in the event you weren't in the UK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I´m from Germany but thanks. I ordered from ebay, free shipping









Now I only have to get rid of that problem:http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1473370

But I´m afraid I´ll have to take of the cover and adjust the wheel again.

Is there a nice way to interrupt the loop, that I don´t have to drain everything and start bleeding from the beginning?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Is there a nice way to interrupt the loop, that I don´t have to drain everything and start bleeding from the beginning?


try to find these

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Hose-Pinchers-P20615.aspx?gclid=CMbbtp6rjr0CFSISMwodsBwAUQ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111252762325?lpid=82


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I really don't know what to say @ this point... Did you ever bleed the system? You should have had a period of time where air was gushing out of the down pipe (return) the normal procedure is that you fill up the res, turn on JUST the pump for a split second, let it drain, rinse repeat until the water is completing the circle. Then you leave it running to purge all the air out of the system, while trying to keep the water slightly above the down tube.
> 
> As to the power issues, check all your cables, make sure the ram is properly seated, clear CMOS *while* the PSU is plugged in, make sure the 8 pin @ the top of the board is properly plugged in. make sure you have a fan in the CPU_header.
> 
> Can you by any chance make a short video of what it sounds like & what the pump is doing? It should be a quiet hum.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Just off the top of my head is there any way you might have reversed the polarity of the wires to the pump so it is trying to push water out of the inlet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aemonn*
> 
> I have that top and you have it hooked up correctly.
> 
> I have no idea if this is possible but maybe someone who knows more than me can answer definitively. If the polarity of the power to the pump is reversed does the motor run in reverse?
> 
> If this is possible it's the only explanation I can think of other than just saying you have a bad pump. If true, it means something is up with the wiring to your pump... either from your power source or the wiring of the pump itself.
> 
> How are you powering the pump to fill your loop? Was your pump wiring custom sleeved either by you or the shop you purchased it from?


I've checked all the cables, cleared cmos while plugged in and out and plugged in a fan in the CPU_FAN. No luck. Without the cpu the system keeps looping with the cpu it doesn't loop and it just shuts off.
I feel like my 4770K is dead, I wish I had another board or cpu to test it or at least know someone with those parts. What to do, what to do







((
Oh and the debug led turns of right away but it looks like a 0. Gigabyte Z87-UD4H

I'm not sure about the cable sleeving but I got it from frozencpu and it is red and black without a sleeve. Truth be told, I don't remember. I've let the port open all day long and I just ran it for 5 mins and looks like no sound. But I don't see water circulating, everything is still. Is that normal?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Trashed the LED strip and installed clear cold cathodes. The loop looks much with the cathode than with the LEDs strip.


Agreed. I much prefer the look of CCFL's in a build for the most part but the downsides are in trying to install all the components and wiring cleanly whereas led strips are so much more versatile. I do believe I'm going to to make the switch to white CCFL's in Night Fury when I upgrade her next. The red led's I'm using right now do a splendid job of washing all contrast out of the rig and making everything glow red. I've finally figured out that using limited accent red led's bathed in a neutral white color gives the look a much more dynamic appearance.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> I've checked all the cables, cleared cmos while plugged in and out and plugged in a fan in the CPU_FAN. No luck. Without the cpu the system keeps looping with the cpu it doesn't loop and it just shuts off.
> I feel like my 4770K is dead, I wish I had another board or cpu to test it or at least know someone with those parts. What to do, what to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ((
> Oh and the debug led turns of right away but it looks like a 0. Gigabyte Z87-UD4H
> 
> I'm not sure about the cable sleeving but I got it from frozencpu and it is red and black without a sleeve. Truth be told, I don't remember. I've let the port open all day long and I just ran it for 5 mins and looks like no sound. But I don't see water circulating, everything is still. Is that normal?


Time to fix some bent pins!!!


----------



## Neo Zuko

On the D5 pumps I still don't know why I would want a PWM one over a Vario that I hear is set and forget...?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I have the vario D5 and its been set to max since I installed it in June 2012. Its absolutely inaudible in my TJ11 at max speed so I've never seen any need to change it...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Agreed. I much prefer the look of CCFL's in a build for the most part but the downsides are in trying to install all the components and wiring cleanly whereas led strips are so much more versatile. I do believe I'm going to to make the switch to white CCFL's in Night Fury when I upgrade her next. The red led's I'm using right now do a splendid job of washing all contrast out of the rig and making everything glow red. I've finally figured out that using limited accent red led's bathed in a neutral white color gives the look a much more dynamic appearance.


Yeah, the LED strip is definitely easier to install and has a much smaller foot print, but i just wasn't happy. These cathodes came with really short wires, so I extended them. Now I just have to sleeve them.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

So im about to buy a fan controller, which do you recommend between the Aquaro 6 and CW611, which would you guys recommend? im using 8 Cougar Dual-x fans

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20013/fan-1257/Cougar_120mm_x_25mm_CFD_Series_LED_Fan_-_Green_LED_CF-D12HB-G.html


----------



## skupples

if your future entails running 30 fans, multiple PWM pumps (besides D5 unless AC's d5) & sensors, get the AQ6, if this is not in your plans, go with the CW611

actually, i think that laptron can do flow meters & temp sensors as well, it just doesn't do PWM.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Im just worried about buying a fan controller that isn't the right kind or sufficient, i hate clicking fans, i just want to lower them enough to be quieter without clicking/buzzing etc.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> So im about to buy a fan controller, which do you recommend between the Aquaro 6 and CW611, which would you guys recommend? im using 8 Cougar Dual-x fans
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20013/fan-1257/Cougar_120mm_x_25mm_CFD_Series_LED_Fan_-_Green_LED_CF-D12HB-G.html


Im running 30 of the 140mm version hooked up to a $30 Mix2 controller







. Oh, and I have one 120mm too


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Im running 30 of the 140mm version hooked up to a $30 Mix2 controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Oh, and I have one 120mm too


do you experience any clicking noise when lowering RPM, i really hate that, i just want a fan controller that i can turn it up when my ambient goes up, and turn down when i dont need it without having any clicking


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> do you experience any clicking noise when lowering RPM, i really hate that, i just want a fan controller that i can turn it up when my ambient goes up, and turn down when i dont need it without having any clicking


The original NZXT Mix v1.0 was notorious for this. Most of the inexpensive controllers did this. Eventually, Nzxt revised the Mix (voltage dropped per channel unfortunately) and came out with v2. The Mesh was dropped because of the same issue.

All my fans are set to 40% power (lowest setting) and they're almost dead silent. Great controller without the huge cost and complexity of a high end controllers.

Btw, I found the 120 version of the cougars far noisier then the 140s. Though the 120s are a bit less noisy then the CM R4 I used to have.

Edit: keep in mind the Mix2 is a manual controller.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

is there any clicking at any of the manual levels with your 120mm? if no, i'll probably buy this for 30 bucks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> is there any clicking at any of the manual levels with your 120mm? if no, i'll probably buy this for 30 bucks


Nope. Its a manual controller mind you.

Luv that the numbers light up and can be changed to different colors. Obviously, mine is set to green


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousBlack*
> 
> Well I've just finished installing the cooling in mine and I'm pretty happy with it.
> 
> The CPU is cooled by the black loop - black tubing with Mayhems Pure Black liquid.
> The GPU's are cooled by the white loop - This is clear tubing with Mayhems Ice White liquid.
> 
> Apologies for the poor pics, late at night, terrible lighting and a crap photographer. I'm contemplating adding some interior lighting now and spraying the ram covers white.
> 
> One things for sure, after this build, it will be a while before I do any upgrading!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!







For GPU loop, what is your water temp like when gaming (I also would like to know your ambient temp), e.g. BF3/BF4?


----------



## SeriousBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For GPU loop, what is your water temp like when gaming (I also would like to know your ambient temp), e.g. BF3/BF4?


Many thanks. My ambient temp for the GPU loop is about 30 degrees C. I only finished the cooling loop last night, but my room was at a normal temp. I did give it a 30min run on BF4 and Card 1 maxed out at 50 degrees C. Cards 2 & 3 maxed out at 48 degrees C. I'm very pleased with it as the fans are running at 70% too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> if your future entails running 30 fans, multiple PWM pumps (besides D5 unless AC's d5) & sensors, get the AQ6, if this is not in your plans, go with the CW611
> 
> actually, i think that laptron can do flow meters & temp sensors as well, it just doesn't do PWM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> if your future entails running 30 fans, multiple PWM pumps (besides D5 unless AC's d5) & sensors, get the AQ6, if this is not in your plans, go with the CW611
> 
> actually, i think that laptron can do flow meters & temp sensors as well, it just doesn't do PWM.


It does flow and temp but the flow sensors don't work correctly from what I have seen with mine.
If you intend to have accurate sensors,the XT5/6 is the way forward.


----------



## Doc3379

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hehenri*


That's a great looking setup. Bravo.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> is there any *clicking* at any of the manual levels with your 120mm? if no, i'll probably buy this for 30 bucks


AFAIK, Lamptron controllers should be free from this problem. SP120 will clicking when running lower than 80% with NZXT Sentry 2 controller but after running for almost a year, the clicking seems go away. NZXT not my first choice but I can't get the Lamptron controller that I want because (always) OOS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousBlack*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For GPU loop, what is your water temp like when gaming (I also would like to know your ambient temp), e.g. BF3/BF4?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks. *My ambient temp for the GPU loop is about 30 degrees C*. I only finished the cooling loop last night, but my room was at a normal temp. I did give it a 30min run on BF4 and Card 1 maxed out at 50 degrees C. Cards 2 & 3 maxed out at 48 degrees C. I'm very pleased with it as the fans are running at 70% too.
Click to expand...

I think you meant water temp is 30C, right? Is this while gaming?

What do you means by "room at a normal temp"? Normal room temp over here is 32C.









I would like to know your delta temp for GPU loop when playing BF4. I only have 360 & 240mm rad space for CPU & GPU's loop. Delta temp when playing BF4 is 16C (ambient 27C, water temp 43C, fans ~1175 RPM). If I run fan at full speed, delta temp is 13C.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I mean, it's fairly smooth around the motherboard, but that line from my top 480 rad, all the way to the bottom port on my front 360 rad (green) sucks. It will be hidden out of sight in the back behind the radiators, but it's still annoying that I have to make that run.
> 
> Then my only option for a functional drain port is the bottom of the front 360 (purple).


Why not rotate that front rad so the ports are on top, and have the rad feed into the top of the res (if possible)? It messes with your plan for a drain port but you could add it off the res somewhere unless your front rad has a port on the front tank... that would be better hidden if it's an option.

Having the ports oriented to the top helps a lot when bleeding as well.


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Time to fix some bent pins!!!


I hope not!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Doc3379,please spoiler quoted pics,leave one for show but spoiler the rest.
Thank you.


----------



## SeriousBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What do you means by "room at a normal temp"? Normal room temp over here is 32C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to know your delta temp for GPU loop when playing BF4. I only have 360 & 240mm rad space for CPU & GPU's loop. Delta temp when playing BF4 is 16C (ambient 27C, water temp 43C, fans ~1175 RPM). If I run fan at full speed, delta temp is 13C.


Apologies, I didn't explain it very well. My delta temp when idle is ~7deg C. When I am gaming it is ~27deg C with the fans running @ ~1155 rpm


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousBlack*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What do you means by "room at a normal temp"? Normal room temp over here is 32C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to know your delta temp for GPU loop when playing BF4. I only have 360 & 240mm rad space for CPU & GPU's loop. Delta temp when playing BF4 is 16C (ambient 27C, water temp 43C, fans ~1175 RPM). If I run fan at full speed, delta temp is 13C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies, I didn't explain it very well. My delta temp when idle is ~7deg C. When I am gaming it is ~27deg C with the fans running @ ~1155 rpm
Click to expand...

Thanks!







My two 290's at stock clock (1000/1300) produced a lot of heat in the loop. I can imagine your tri-fire will produced quite a lot of heat too. Since ambient quite high here, the coolant feels hot when playing BF4.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> I've checked all the cables, cleared cmos while plugged in and out and plugged in a fan in the CPU_FAN. No luck. Without the cpu the system keeps looping with the cpu it doesn't loop and it just shuts off.
> I feel like my 4770K is dead, I wish I had another board or cpu to test it or at least know someone with those parts. What to do, what to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ((
> Oh and the debug led turns of right away but it looks like a 0. Gigabyte Z87-UD4H
> 
> I'm not sure about the cable sleeving but I got it from frozencpu and it is red and black without a sleeve. Truth be told, I don't remember. I've let the port open all day long and I just ran it for 5 mins and looks like no sound. But I don't see water circulating, everything is still. Is that normal?


I just sounds like your CPU isn't seated correctly, there are bent pins in the LGA socket, there is debris on the contact pads of the CPU, or possibly a bad CPU. Check the first three out for sure.

Has it ever powered up before? Is this a completely new build with loop and all or had you used it on air and then put in the loop recently? If it's the later, make sure the CPU block isn't too tight and causing poor contact with the pins and pad. Have you delidded the chip or anything?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> I hope not!


Just doing it now with the help of many cigarettes and much swearing.


----------



## stickg1

Which wire is the RPM wire on the 3-pin female plug? The one on my MCP355 got messed up and I had to put on a new pin. But now I forgot which to connector it is!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Which wire is the RPM wire on the 3-pin female plug? The one on my MCP355 got messed up and I had to put on a new pin. But now I forgot which to connector it is!


It should be the blue wire.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It should be the blue wire.


Naw I know that, hehe, which wire on the pinout of the fan connector? I actually figured it out just now, pin #3, thanks for the reply!


----------



## aaroc

Friends, I need your advise.
I already bought Waterblocks, pump and radiator that have G1/4 connectors. I need to select and buy fittings and flexible tubing.
If I want to use "Primochill Advanced LRT tubing in the 7/16"IDx5/8"OD" what type of Monsoon/Bitspower rotary and compression fittings are compatible with that type of tubing? And a compatible quick disconnect? I understand ID,OD, but I want to be sure.
Thanks a lot!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



GPU Waterblock: EK-FC R9-290X VGA Block- Plexi (EK-FC R9-290X) +EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ - Plexi+EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black (EK-FC R9-290X-BP)
CPU Waterblock: EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ
Pump: Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V Pump + G1/4 adaptors
Watercool Mo-ra 360 radiator


----------



## 15goudreau

All you need to do is match the ID and OD perfectly to your compression fittings. Else they will not fit. Everything pretty much is g 1/4 thread so you don't have to worry about that at all.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Friends, I need your advise.
> I already bought Waterblocks, pump and radiator that have G1/4 connectors. I need to select and buy fittings and flexible tubing.
> If I want to use "Primochill Advanced LRT tubing in the 7/16"IDx5/8"OD" what type of Monsoon/Bitspower rotary and compression fittings are compatible with that type of tubing? And a compatible quick disconnect? I understand ID,OD, but I want to be sure.
> Thanks a lot!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> GPU Waterblock: EK-FC R9-290X VGA Block- Plexi (EK-FC R9-290X) +EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ - Plexi+EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black (EK-FC R9-290X-BP)
> CPU Waterblock: EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ
> Pump: Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V Pump + G1/4 adaptors
> Watercool Mo-ra 360 radiator


Before you buy anything it is worth doing a trial run with your chosen fittings and compiling a "virtual basket" of the ones you need to find out their availability in your country before you commit. Without doing this I chose 3/8" ID 1/2" OD only to find I couldn't always get Bitspower in this size in the UK and thus ended up buying different brands from different suppliers (not good). Also check availability of your fittings on fleabay because sometimes a supplier will ordinarily charge postage but do free post through their fleabay outlet.


----------



## stickg1

My Aquacomputer Poweradjust 2 just arrived! I had it up and running no problem, it works really well. Wow my pump is so much more quiet and doesn't look like a hurricane is running through my reservoir!

Now I just have to find a place to put it and where to route all the wires!!



lol what a mess!!



EDIT:

Man I just love it when something actually works the way it's supposed to! Aquasuite is pretty awesome, I'm eager to get an Aquero and put it all together for full control over everything.

I have seen the 5.25" bay mounts for the PA2, but is there a screenless one that I could mount a AQ 5 LT to just to keep it in place and tidy? I figure I could always drill some holes and mount them in places inside the case. I'd rather not cut into this Caselabs though. Worst comes to worst I could always just try to mount them in single 5.25" blank plates so they are easily replaced. But that's not my first preference.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Friends, I need your advise.
> If I want to use "Primochill Advanced LRT tubing in the 7/16"IDx5/8"OD" what type of Monsoon/Bitspower rotary and compression fittings are compatible with that type of tubing


I found 3/8"-5/8" Monsoon compressions to be a bit tight on Primochill Advanced LRT of the same dimensions. Your mileage may vary with 7/16" ID. Best as Pinza suggests, is to buy one fitting, and one meter of tube just to confirm before ordering a whole bunch of stuff.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I found 3/8"-5/8" Monsoon compressions to be a bit tight on Primochill Advanced LRT of the same dimensions. Your mileage may vary with 7/16" ID. Best as Pinza suggests, is to buy one fitting, and one meter of tube just to confirm before ordering a whole bunch of stuff.


I have the compressions in 1/2 3/4s and found that they fit really well if you warm the tube up under some hot tap water for about a minute. They slip right on and the compression ring clamps down super easy.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I have the compressions in 1/2 3/4s and found that they fit really well if you warm the tube up under some hot tap water for about a minute. They slip right on and the compression ring clamps down super easy.


Good tip


----------



## 15goudreau

Hope that helps anyone else in the future







. I figured if it works for barbs why wouldn't it work for compression rings? And it just did! Plus after I've been folding on my computer for a while and my tubes are all warm from the water I go through and tighten all the compressions by hand just a little bit more. Just for added caution


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I found 3/8"-5/8" Monsoon compressions to be a bit tight on Primochill Advanced LRT of the same dimensions. Your mileage may vary with 7/16" ID. Best as Pinza suggests, is to buy one fitting, and one meter of tube just to confirm before ordering a whole bunch of stuff.


That wasn't exactly what I meant. Fittings are expensive in the UK where we pay 20% tax on everything but tubing is relatively cheap so if you bought a complete set of fittings but the tubing wasn't a good fit then it would simply be a matter of finding tubing which did fit.
As an example of what I mean, I have had to dismantle my rig due to my damaged LGA2011 socket pins. It would have been easier if I had quick disconnects on my GPU's. Ideally I need 2 sets of QDC's with 3/8" ID fittings one end and a 1/4" male thread the other. But when I check the usual suppliers I can only find the 3/8" ends and the 1/4" male thread ends are out of stock, so I am screwed.
Basically what I mean is you should try to find the most popular tube size or at least the one which is most easily obtainable in your area.


----------



## kpoeticg

So i was just leak testing my new 35x3. I had the outlet of the pump going Pump => BP D-Plug => BP T-Fitting with a Mini-Valve off to the side => Loop

Anyway, the 35x3 split the D-Plug in half. The male half just spit the female half out of the socket. Literally spitting my entire loop in my face while i'm sitting on the couch. Dunno if any of the 3 pumps ran dry before i was able to unplug it.

Luckily i was leaktesting and only had the pumps and fans powered through a AC => Molex Power Brick => MMT Splitter PCB. No hardware was powered on yet......

I'd been leaktesting since yesterday and was just about ready to power on all my hardware!!!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> So i was just leak testing my new 35x3. I had the outlet of the pump going Pump => BP D-Plug => BP T-Fitting with a Mini-Valve off to the side => Loop
> 
> Anyway, the 35x3 split the D-Plug in half. The male half just spit the female half out of the socket. Literally spitting my entire loop in my face while i'm sitting on the couch. Dunno if any of the 3 pumps ran dry before i was able to unplug it.
> 
> Luckily i was leaktesting and only had the pumps and fans powered through a AC => Molex Power Brick => MMT Splitter PCB. No hardware was powered on yet......
> 
> I'd been leaktesting since yesterday and was just about ready to power on all my hardware!!!


Lucky! Personally, I wouldn't run a slip fitting that close to them pumps and with a T or 90 right after it, that obviously pushed the head pressure up a bit more than two o-rings in the D Plug can take


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> So i was just leak testing my new 35x3. I had the outlet of the pump going Pump => BP D-Plug => BP T-Fitting with a Mini-Valve off to the side => Loop
> 
> Anyway, the 35x3 split the D-Plug in half. The male half just spit the female half out of the socket. Literally spitting my entire loop in my face while i'm sitting on the couch. Dunno if any of the 3 pumps ran dry before i was able to unplug it.
> 
> Luckily i was leaktesting and only had the pumps and fans powered through a AC => Molex Power Brick => MMT Splitter PCB. No hardware was powered on yet......
> 
> I'd been leaktesting since yesterday and was just about ready to power on all my hardware!!!


Three 35X pumps! That's a lot of pressure at full speed.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lucky! Personally, I wouldn't run a slip fitting that close to them pumps and with a T or 90 right after it, that obviously pushed the head pressure up a bit more than two o-rings in the D Plug can take


Yeah apparently a bad idea =\

I originally had my temporary loop planned with an extra 6pk of Monsoon Compressions i ordered. But i guess i ordered them right after they made the soft-tubing switch to Silver barbs, so i didn't end up using em. I kinda had to rig together my temporary loop out of all my random fittings i had. I have 2 untested 290x's, so was trying to just get up and running for the time being



















I had the pump and rad on that shelf when i was leaktesting. With the mobo sitting where it shows in the picture. The mobo got a cpl drops but the bulk of the coolant pretty much missed it. Luckily i had nothing powered on!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Three 35X pumps! That's a lot of pressure at full speed.


Lol, yeah that's why i was testing when i was around to watch. I had em running at full speed last night for a while, but had em at like 50% duty cycle when i was sleeping. When i woke up, i decided to turn em up again with my little micro pwm controller pcb, just to test for a cpl more hours while i had my eye on it.

My final loops gonna have a Supremacy, RIVE BE Full Block, 3 AC 290x Blocks, 2 x4 Ram Blocks, & 4 rads. That's why i went with the triple pump setup


----------



## sebkow

whos excited about X99 coming out in Q2 ( earlier then expected , rumopur still). When should be see new cpu blocks


----------



## mrinfinit3

So today I had to make my 1st Rigid bend (180*) and it turned out perfect .... now I'm hooked and just dropped $150 on rigid tubing and proper fittings.....Thanks guys! lol







Of course my wife is all







and I'm in the crap-house for a while... but it's worth it.
Had to make a 4" long 180* to go between my front 240 rad and my bay res...had 2x 90* rotary fittings in 3/8"ID soft tube and the pressure up to the Res seemed horrid (I have 3x pumps; shouldn't be), let alone the trapped air bubbles that would accumulate at that junction. So for a temp fix, I had some 3/8" OD acrylic tubing left over from an audio amplifier build and simply slid it inside the soft stuff (nice and slow







).
Insane how the definition of the liquid's color appears opposed to the soft tube. Ya; I don't think I'm ever going back now lol


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm not excited about x99 since i'm still working on my RIVE BE build lol

I'm praying none of those pumps ran dry. The first 2 look like they still had some liquid em, as well as a tiny bit in my res and a tiny bit in my waterblocks. The 3rd pump where the outlet is looked pretty dry by the time i unplugged it though.


----------



## VSG

I still think they will come out in Q3 as predicted, June may just be the announcement and July (Q3) is not that far off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm praying none of those pumps ran dry. The first 2 look like they still had some liquid em, as well as a tiny bit in my res and a tiny bit in my waterblocks. The 3rd pump where the outlet is looked pretty dry by the time i unplugged it though.


How long do you think they ran, assuming on air, at all? A couple of seconds shouldn't kill them.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well when it split the D-Plug, it literally spit the coolant all over me. I have a Photon 170, plus all the blocks i showed with a bunch of ZMT tubing connecting everything, all full when it happened.

So maybe a cpl seconds like you said. I jumped up as soon as it happened, but it caught me off guard. Mighta been like 10 seconds from when the leak started. But it still had to drain my loop before it ran dry

Edit: What should i look for when i'm testing the pumps for damage?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aemonn*
> 
> Why not rotate that front rad so the ports are on top, and have the rad feed into the top of the res (if possible)? It messes with your plan for a drain port but you could add it off the res somewhere unless your front rad has a port on the front tank... that would be better hidden if it's an option.
> 
> Having the ports oriented to the top helps a lot when bleeding as well.


I could, but in order to achieve a fountain effect on this reservoir, the inlet has to be that bottom central port. The XSPC rads only have 4 ports on one end. I would have gone with Alphacool rads for the extra ports, but the matte finish on the XSPC match my aesthetic better.

It's a bummer, but there's no way around it really.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well when it split the D-Plug, it literally spit the coolant all over me. I have a Photon 170, plus all the blocks i showed with a bunch of ZMT tubing connecting everything, all full when it happened.
> 
> So maybe a cpl seconds like you said. I jumped up as soon as it happened, but it caught me off guard. Mighta been like 10 seconds from when the leak started. But it still had to drain my loop before it ran dry
> 
> Edit: What should i look for when i'm testing the pumps for damage?


Get the ok from Bryan to open it up, else just run each individually with a res-pump only loop. You will hear any damage done lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well when it split the D-Plug, it literally spit the coolant all over me. I have a Photon 170, plus all the blocks i showed with a bunch of ZMT tubing connecting everything, all full when it happened.
> 
> So maybe a cpl seconds like you said. I jumped up as soon as it happened, but it caught me off guard. Mighta been like 10 seconds from when the leak started. But it still had to drain my loop before it ran dry
> 
> Edit: What should i look for when i'm testing the pumps for damage?


Send me a PM and I'll see what I can do to help you out.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Whats the reputation of these aquacomputer gpu blocks for Titan?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_999&products_id=37735

One of my EK FC Titan blocks leaked. Not sure I want to use my EK blocks anymore. First the nickel plating issue, then a leak.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Whats the reputation of these aquacomputer gpu blocks for Titan?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_999&products_id=37735
> 
> One of my EK FC Titan blocks leaked. Not sure I want to use my EK blocks anymore. First the nickel plating issue, then a leak.


Just curious, did you make sure that all of the screws on the leaky block were nice and tight? I've had blocks show up from Heatkiller, aquacomputer and EK show up with loose screws. So I always take the time to check any and all screws now, regardless of make and model!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just curious, did you make sure that all of the screws on the leaky block were nice and tight? I've had blocks show up from Heatkiller, aquacomputer and EK show up with loose screws. So I always take the time to check any and all screws now, regardless of make and model!


Yep, everything is nice and tight. Somehow a very thin film of coolant managed to escape. Being that my coolant is clear, it was very hard to see even with sunlight.


----------



## skupples




----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


Exactly how I feel,


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Get the ok from Bryan to open it up, else just run each individually with a res-pump only loop. You will hear any damage done lol


It's 3 35x's with the XSPC 35x3 top and EK DDC Heatsinks. I think warranty is out of the question LOLLL

They've already been opened up from both ends















I have all three pumps up and running again after switching around my loop a little. I switched my BP Q-Fitting with the D-Plug & T-Fitting coming out of my 35x3.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Send me a PM and I'll see what I can do to help you out.


Will do, thanx.

So far i can't hear anything. I started them one at a time, and have all 3 running right now.

Edit: 2nd D-Plug just cracked open.



That red one on my Mosfet => CPU run. Only 2 pumps plugged in this time. Definitely draining this temporary setup, ordering the fittings i need this weekend, and rebuilding next week. This one didn't just pop off like the first one, still cracked open and was like a little sprinkler on my mobo though.

I'm a little worried that i'm planning to use all C47's and F/F BP Angled Fittings on my mobo area, since C47's have the same double o-ring design as the D-Plugs. I think i'm gonna have to get a cpl Aquacomputer Pressure Equalization Membranes. I already have a BP Exhaust for my res, since it's horizontal i can't use a Pressure Membrane there.

I wonder if i can use them on the top of a cpl Q-Fittings to keep my loop safe.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Get the ok from Bryan to open it up, else just run each individually with a res-pump only loop. You will hear any damage done lol
> 
> 
> 
> It's 3 35x's with the XSPC 35x3 top and EK DDC Heatsinks. I think warranty is out of the question LOLLL
> They've already been opened up from both ends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have all three pumps up and running again after switching around my loop a little. I switched my BP Q-Fitting with the D-Plug & T-Fitting coming out of my 35x3.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Send me a PM and I'll see what I can do to help you out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Will do, thanx.
> So far i can't hear anything. I started them one at a time, and have all 3 running right now.
> 
> Edit: 2nd D-Plug just cracked open.
> 
> 
> 
> That red one on my Mosfet => CPU run. Only 2 pumps plugged in this time. Definitely draining this temporary setup, ordering the fittings i need this weekend, and rebuilding next week. This one didn't just pop off like the first one, still cracked open and was like a little sprinkler on my mobo though.
> 
> *I'm a little worried that i'm planning to use all C47's and F/F BP Angled Fittings on my mobo area*, since C47's have the same double o-ring design as the D-Plugs. I think i'm gonna have to get a cpl Aquacomputer Pressure Equalization Membranes. I already have a BP Exhaust for my res, since it's horizontal i can't use a Pressure Membrane there.
> 
> I wonder if i can use them on the top of a cpl Q-Fittings to keep my loop safe.
Click to expand...

Go back and look at the neatly plumbed builds with the C47's, and one thing you'll notice is that they all configure the fittings to face in directions that don't offer much room for linear separation without increasing effort.

Make the complexity of the layout work for you to make it hard for the fittings to push apart.

Use a flow meter so you don't end up running the pumps harder than the system needs for ~1.25 GPM or so.

At the relatively low pressures sufficient for that flow rate, you'll be hard pressed to blow out, even a fairly poorly planned fitting layout.

Darlene

Told ya that triple was a beastly bugger . . . . .


----------



## stickg1

Anyone using the *Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4*?

I'm thinking about getting one to hook up to my Poweradjust2 and eventually the Aquero (still on the fence on which model to get).


----------



## VSG

Ya I got it. It is a physical flow meter so be sure to decouple it from the pump and be aware of a rattling noise (not really an issue personally but ymmv).


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya I got it. It is a physical flow meter so be sure to decouple it from the pump and be aware of a rattling noise (not really an issue personally but ymmv).


Rattling? That doesn't sound good. I'm not sure what you mean by decoupling from the pump? I would just have it some where thats slightly hidden in the loop, although that would be the first stop from the pump output. So would that make it no bueno? I guess I could spend more fore the MPS models, but which one do I get? 100, 200, 400?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Get the ok from Bryan to open it up, else just run each individually with a res-pump only loop. You will hear any damage done lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's 3 35x's with the XSPC 35x3 top and EK DDC Heatsinks. I think warranty is out of the question LOLLL
> They've already been opened up from both ends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have all three pumps up and running again after switching around my loop a little. I switched my BP Q-Fitting with the D-Plug & T-Fitting coming out of my 35x3.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Send me a PM and I'll see what I can do to help you out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Will do, thanx.
> So far i can't hear anything. I started them one at a time, and have all 3 running right now.
> 
> Edit: 2nd D-Plug just cracked open.
> 
> 
> That red one on my Mosfet => CPU run. Only 2 pumps plugged in this time. Definitely draining this temporary setup, ordering the fittings i need this weekend, and rebuilding next week. This one didn't just pop off like the first one, still cracked open and was like a little sprinkler on my mobo though.
> 
> *I'm a little worried that i'm planning to use all C47's and F/F BP Angled Fittings on my mobo area*, since C47's have the same double o-ring design as the D-Plugs. I think i'm gonna have to get a cpl Aquacomputer Pressure Equalization Membranes. I already have a BP Exhaust for my res, since it's horizontal i can't use a Pressure Membrane there.
> 
> I wonder if i can use them on the top of a cpl Q-Fittings to keep my loop safe.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go back and look at the neatly plumbed builds with the C47's, and one thing you'll notice is that they all configure the fittings to face in directions that don't offer much room for linear separation without increasing effort.
> 
> Make the complexity of the layout work for you to make it hard for the fittings to push apart.
> 
> Use a flow meter so you don't end up running the pumps harder than the system needs for ~1.25 GPM or so.
> 
> At the relatively low pressures sufficient for that flow rate, you'll be hard pressed to blow out, even a fairly poorly planned fitting layout.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Told ya that triple was a beastly bugger . . . . .
Click to expand...

Lol, yes you certainly did. I tested it like you recommended, turning on one pump at a time. Had no problems last night running at high speeds. Then let it leak test all night while i slept at like 50% duty cycle. Then today just nothing but problems

I have the AC High Flow (No-USB). Just when i leaktest, i do it off an external power brick. I didn't bother turning on my Aquaero yet. I'll definitely be setting my flow meter when i get that far. Just rather lean on the safe side when i'm dealing with thousands in hardware

I know that i'll probly never have a need to run at the flow/pressure that was causing the leaks. Still i'll feel better knowing that my loop can handle whatever i throw at it.

I planned on routing my loop with C47's and the Female/Female newish BP 90* Angles. Now i'm feeling like that might be a bad idea....

Like CPU up to F/F 90 right to F/F 90 down to Mosfets etc...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone using the *Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4*?
> 
> I'm thinking about getting one to hook up to my Poweradjust2 and eventually the Aquero (still on the fence on which model to get).


I have the High Flow G1/4. It seems to work great. I'd definitely go with either High Flow or High Flow USB. The main difference is the USB can hook up to Aquabus/USB. The Non-USB version hooks up to the "Flow" port on the Aquaero. I have Non-USB


----------



## Ragsters

Can you guys help me with something? I have been having some weird MCP35X pump problems. Not always, but occasionally during a cold boot, my pump has a delay before it starts. Because of this delay I would sometimes get the CPU_fan detection error. I have recently changed the bios setting to ignore CPU fan. About an hour ago when I turned on my computer for the first time today the pump did not start until I saw my desktop. I am starting to get worried that with such a delay I can damage something.

P.S I currently have the molex connected to the PSU and the 4Pin PWM cable to the motherboard's CPU-Fan header.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Rattling? That doesn't sound good. I'm not sure what you mean by decoupling from the pump? I would just have it some where thats slightly hidden in the loop, although that would be the first stop from the pump output. So would that make it no bueno? I guess I could spend more fore the MPS models, but which one do I get? 100, 200, 400?


It's not as bad as you are likely thinking. Quieter than your pump for sure. I meant have to somewhere else but if that's next up from the pump, use soft tubing to connect it to the pump.


----------



## kpoeticg

Hrmmmm. That would worry me too.

Maybe get an Aquero 5 LT to control it? Sounds like it's either your mobo's fan control, or maybe some sort of PSU issue. Can't see how it could be a pump issue...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Rattling? That doesn't sound good. I'm not sure what you mean by decoupling from the pump? I would just have it some where thats slightly hidden in the loop, although that would be the first stop from the pump output. So would that make it no bueno? I guess I could spend more fore the MPS models, but which one do I get? 100, 200, 400?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not as bad as you are likely thinking. Quieter than your pump for sure. I meant have to somewhere else but if that's next up from the pump, use soft tubing to connect it to the pump.
> 
> I think that the way you mount it has alot to do with people that have noise issue's with the High Flow series.
> 
> I have mine mounted on the way back to the pump, so i can see the flowrate after it's been through my loop. I'm thinking of getting a second one though with Aquabus hookup to put after pump outlet
Click to expand...


----------



## stickg1

Gotcha, I do want the flow meter no matter what. My pump is nice and quiet now at ~9v, temps seem the same, I would like to know the flow plus it's one more thing I can meticulously monitor from my captain's chair!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hrmmmm. That would worry me too.
> 
> Maybe get an Aquero 5 LT to control it? Sounds like it's either your mobo's fan control, or maybe some sort of PSU issue. Can't see how it could be a pump issue...


I'm considering it. I haven't tested it yet but I have a feeling that without connecting the 4pin PWM cable to the motherboard It would start right away. The problem is it will be hard to test. I mean this issue has not happened in about a week but since I have had my pump it has happened to me about a dozen times.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me with something? I have been having some weird MCP35X pump problems. Not always, but occasionally during a cold boot, my pump has a delay before it starts. Because of this delay I would sometimes get the CPU_fan detection error. I have recently changed the bios setting to ignore CPU fan. About an hour ago when I turned on my computer for the first time today the pump did not start until I saw my desktop. I am starting to get worried that with such a delay I can damage something.
> 
> P.S I currently have the molex connected to the PSU and the 4Pin PWM cable to the motherboard's CPU-Fan header.


apparently its all ddc pumps not just the older ones. thats the reason the ac pa2 was created.

A freely configurable Start Boost ensures that, for example , a pump has enough time to launch before it is turned down . This function uses course , if that is detected on the speed or flow sensor signal a stoppage of fan or pump
- Configurable Start -Burst
- Speed control with a renewed burst at standstill


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I'm considering it. I haven't tested it yet but I have a feeling that without connecting the 4pin PWM cable to the motherboard It would start right away. The problem is it will be hard to test. I mean this issue has not happened in about a week but since I have had my pump it has happened to me about a dozen times.


If you hook it up without the fan connector, it should start at full speed right when you start your system. At least you can try it to troubleshoot

Edit: If it starts right away with no fan connector, then you know it's your mobo's fan control. My 35x's start right away at full speed with no pwm control

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> apparently its all ddc pumps not just the older ones. thats the reason the ac pa2 was created.
> 
> A freely configurable Start Boost ensures that, for example , a pump has enough time to launch before it is turned down . This function uses course , if that is detected on the speed or flow sensor signal a stoppage of fan or pump
> - Configurable Start -Burst
> - Speed control with a renewed burst at standstill
> 
> He's talking about a 35x with PWM running off his mobo. It's powered from PSU. PA2's were created for voltage controlling non-pwm pumps


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> apparently its all ddc pumps not just the older ones. thats the reason the ac pa2 was created.
> 
> A freely configurable Start Boost ensures that, for example , a pump has enough time to launch before it is turned down . This function uses course , if that is detected on the speed or flow sensor signal a stoppage of fan or pump
> - Configurable Start -Burst
> - Speed control with a renewed burst at standstill


This is not a problem w/ PWM DDCs. They are not controlled by voltage and it isn't possible for the pump to stop via PWM. If the pump isn't starting right away at startup something is wrong w/ the pump.


----------



## kpoeticg

If i turn my Duty Cycle all the way down with my Micro PWM Control PCB



It runs the pump low enough that it doesn't seem like it's started yet. If you have enough blocks in your loop, minimum PWM can seem like not starting


----------



## lowfat

@ 0% the pump should be running @ 1200-1300 rpm. It is nearly inaudible at this speed and flow rates will be minimal. But it will still start and be working.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> whos excited about X99 coming out in Q2 ( earlier then expected , rumopur still). When should be see new cpu blocks


We may see some new designs, and possibly a new jet plate, but I don't think the meat & potatoes will change much.

I'm kinda meh about X99 to be honest. DDR4 is going to be so obscenely expensive, and have a 1% gain @ most in gaming scenarios compared to high end DDR3. The. Right now i'm kinda on this "Volta or bust" kick. I may go all out when that comes around, but until them i'm completely content with the performance i'm getting out of 5.0 3930k w/ 2333 cas 10 DDR3.

@KpoeticG Did you polish that top @ all? It looks shinier than mine.


----------



## Ragsters

I actually can hear the pump trying to start until it actually does.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If i turn my Duty Cycle all the way down with my Micro PWM Control PCB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It runs the pump low enough that it doesn't seem like it's started yet. If you have enough blocks in your loop, minimum PWM can seem like not starting


I know with my MCP's below 20% they won't spin up.

For some reason though, its been non-issue since getting the AQ6, I don't even use the start boost.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> This is not a problem w/ PWM DDCs. They are not controlled by voltage and it isn't possible for the pump to stop via PWM. If the pump isn't starting right away at startup something is wrong w/ the pump.


idk, my MCP35X2 use to not start some times when powered via motherboard, but I was also running it @ the lowest possible speed back then. Its been fine on the AQ6.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> whos excited about X99 coming out in Q2 ( earlier then expected , rumopur still). When should be see new cpu blocks
> 
> 
> 
> We may see some new designs, and possibly a new jet plate, but I don't think the meat & potatoes will change much.
> 
> I'm kinda meh about X99 to be honest. DDR4 is going to be so obscenely expensive, and have a 1% gain @ most in gaming scenarios compared to high end DDR3. The. Right now i'm kinda on this "Volta or bust" kick. I may go all out when that comes around, but until them i'm completely content with the performance i'm getting out of 5.0 3930k w/ 2333 cas 10 DDR3.
> 
> 
> 
> @kpoeticg Did you polish that top @ all? It looks shinier than mine.
Click to expand...

Which top you talking about? XSPC 35x3? I haven't polished any of my blocks. All EK's are Clean CSQ and the XSPC Triple is just clear acrylic









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I actually can hear the pump trying to start until it actually does.


Yeah, that sounds like it's the PWM control on your mobo to me. That's why i love having an Aquaero running separate.

Obviously, if you were very interested in an Aquaero, you'd have one by now. But 5LT might be worthwhile for you


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Which top you talking about? XSPC 35x3? I haven't polished any of my blocks. All EK's are Clean CSQ and the XSPC Triple is just clear acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that sounds like it's the PWM control on your mobo to me. That's why i love having an Aquaero running separate.
> Obviously, if you were very interested in an Aquaero, you'd have one by now. But 5LT might be worthwhile for you


yeah, the triple top. It must be the lighting. I haven't really spent much time with mine yet. Inspected it for flaws, then stuck it back into the box until my STH-10 shows up.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol. Yeah, you can't really know what it looks like til you install it









It could be the lighting setup i used for the pics too.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I actually can hear the pump trying to start until it actually does.


What does this sound like? If the pump is working right you could plug in an MCP35X w/ the pwm @ 0% and it should start. That is the beauty of PWM, the device is still getting 12V. If the pump isn't starting for any reason the blame is on the pump.

I agree about the XSPC 3 x pump top. It looks polished. With most acrylic blocks / tops you still see tool marks in the acrylic unless it was polished. You can easily see a difference between the pump top and the EK blocks in your pics.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I actually can hear the pump trying to start until it actually does.
> 
> 
> 
> What does this sound like? If the pump is working right you could plug in an MCP35X w/ the pwm @ 0% and it should start. That is the beauty of PWM, the device is still getting 12V. If the pump isn't starting for any reason the blame is on the pump.
> 
> I agree about the XSPC 3 x pump top. It looks polished. With most acrylic blocks / tops you still see tool marks in the acrylic unless it was polished. You can easily see a difference between the pump top and the EK blocks in your pics.
Click to expand...

Actually, it's not that simple.

Powering up a 35X with the PWM line at 0% duty cycle, (which means it's connected to ground) is different to the pump than lowering the duty cycle to 0 after it's been running.

As you say, it should hold its minimum rpm, about 1300rpm, as the pulse width is decreased below ~15% . . all the way down to zero, and stay at 1300 until the duty cycle exceeds 15% again.

Everyone that I've tested does that, but I have not actually checked to see what happens if I put power to the molex while the PWM signal is at 0%.

Keep in mind too, that the PWM D5 DOES Stop if you take the PWM line low with a 0% duty cycle.

Once it's stopped, it will stay stopped until the duty cycle exceeds ~8%,

So designs can vary, and there can be some variation within a design.

If I think of it over the weekend, I'll see what happens with a 35X if power is applied while the duty cycle is set to 0%.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

When i plug the molex to my pumps with the duty cycle set to 0, it seems like nothing starts. It could just be slow enough that i can't tell though.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone using the *Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4*?
> 
> I'm thinking about getting one to hook up to my Poweradjust2 and eventually the Aquero (still on the fence on which model to get).


I have the USB version for 9 months now. Works great. Initially was on a loop with 1 d5. Now with two d5 and it did develop a rattle noise recently specially at high flow (both d5 at 100%). I got in contact with aquacomputer and they offer me to fix it If I decided to send it back to Germany (I am in Brazil mind you so was going to take long just for shipping). In any case the supprt guy (very attentive and reply to me in less than 24 hours) send me the instructions to try fixing it by myself. I opened up, cleaned (was quite clean actually no debris) and then hammer (yes, that is correct







) the impeller on the shaft. Took me 5 minutes and actually fixed it. It seems that if the impeller is not all the way down on the shaft it will touch the ceiling (where the o-ring seats as well as the pcb) causing the rattle sound. I highly recommend the flow meter.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone using the *Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4*?
> 
> I'm thinking about getting one to hook up to my Poweradjust2 and eventually the Aquero (still on the fence on which model to get).


That is the one I use. I have heard of others reporting some slight noise in certain orientations that is normally fixed by lying it flat.
Mine has never made any noise though and I have used it flat, vertical and horizontal. It is a great device and easier to use than the others and potentially more accurate. The other USB models just add the ability to use them as a standalone device.
Marting did a review on it I think and maybe Stren did a review on the MPS pressure based model to compare.

Edit: Reviews
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/


----------



## SeeThruHead

One of my mcp35x does the same thing. Once in a while from cold boot it will chug a few times before it starts. I've always had cpu fan monitoring off so it's never bothered me.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ... I'm kinda meh about X99 to be honest. DDR4 is going to be so obscenely expensive, and have a 1% gain @ most in gaming scenarios compared to high end DDR3...


I'll argue it's far far overdue and very welcome. Native USB3 and far better Sata 3 support alone is worth it. I'm tired of Z87 being so far ahead with chipset tech. Plus I'll take fluxless solder any day of the week.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is there an easy way to have the pump vertical but mounted to the floor of the case w/ that combo?


You can find a 90° bracket from a hardware store or fabricate one yourself. I actually made a bracket from a piece of casing of an old psu to mount my D5 in this manner.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You can find a 90° bracket from a hardware store or fabricate one yourself. I actually made a bracket from a piece of casing of an old psu to mount my D5 in this manner.


I will likely go w/ the ek uni holders. I'll probably go w/ this.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is there an easy way to have the pump vertical but mounted to the floor of the case w/ that combo?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is there an easy way to have the pump vertical but mounted to the floor of the case w/ that combo?


[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="lowfat" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/63730#post_21947445"]
I will likely go w/ the ek uni holders. I'll probably go w/ this.

[/quote


]

Ek uniholder works fine. However if you want to put it on the floor vertically not sure you would be able. What I did in my first loop I use two uniholders to make a nice "feet" for the d5 pump on the floor of the case. Usually the uniholder can be used to mount vertically but the mounting holes goes lateral. Here is a pictures of it:


----------



## wermad




----------



## skupples

all that, and still a rubber dome keyboard. That's a paddling.


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


That's a thing of beauty Wer.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Booyah! Nice setup Werm!


----------



## VSG

Looking good!

I am amazed you got it mounted on a desk










Edit: Some words got moved around


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*






Looking Great Wermad...Did you rent a crane to lift that thing up the desk?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> all that, and still a rubber dome keyboard. That's a paddling.


I could care less for a mech keyboard. I tried one and didn't like it. Most keyboards, the keys are a bit too small (had a G19S briefly). This old and crappy wave still works great for my large hands








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> That's a thing of beauty Wer.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Booyah! Nice setup Werm!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> I am amazed you got it mounted on a desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Some words got moved around
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> Looking Great Wermad...Did you rent a crane to lift that thing up the desk?
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. This one was drama-free and I'm happy its up and running again.

@Gabe, I assembled it on top of my desk since I knew it was going to be uber heavy. It took in a gallon of distilled and I just topped it off today with more.


----------



## PinzaC55

I'm thinking of using this as my new avatar



Can ya tell what it is yet? @ Rolf Harris


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I'm thinking of using this as my new avatar
> 
> 
> 
> Can ya tell what it is yet? @ Rolf Harris


Bent pins in your CPU socket.


----------



## Anoxy

Swiss cheese obviously
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> all that, and still a rubber dome keyboard. That's a paddling.


lol this. I am disappoint.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I'm thinking of using this as my new avatar
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can ya tell what it is yet? @ Rolf Harris


Close up of sleeving?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Swiss cheese obviously
> lol this. I am disappoint.


To annoy yours and Skupple's ocd even further, I'm using an inexpensive Kensington wifi mouse







. Don't care for mech keyboards, tried it and didn't like em. Gaming keyboards are too small on the keys for me. This large button Wave has been gaming with me for ~5 years







. If it ain't broke, don't fix it (even after trying a Blackwidow and G19S)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To annoy yours and Skupple's ocd even further, I'm using an inexpensive Kensington wifi mouse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't care for mech keyboards, tried it and didn't like em. Gaming keyboards are too small on the keys for me. This large button Wave has been gaming with me for ~5 years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If it ain't broke, don't fix it (even after trying a Blackwidow and G19S)


I've had the wireless version of that keyboard for a couple of years now. I don't care for the mechanical or gaming keyboards either, for much the same reason as you.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've had the wireless version of that keyboard for a couple of years now. I don't care for the mechanical or gaming keyboards either, for much the same reason as you.


Mine had the dreaded repeating "R" button syndrome and I just never got around to rma it. Its not the best but its been working all this time. The keys are just large enough for my fingers where its not annoying like the G19S I tried briefly.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> all that, and still a rubber dome keyboard. That's a paddling.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To annoy yours and Skupple's ocd even further, I'm using an inexpensive Kensington wifi mouse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't care for mech keyboards, tried it and didn't like em. Gaming keyboards are too small on the keys for me. This large button Wave has been gaming with me for ~5 years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If it ain't broke, don't fix it *(even after trying a Blackwidow and G19S)*


The Razer isn't a very good mech board, and I'm fairly positive the G19s isn't even mechanical









All about dat Ducky Shine, Filco MJT, WASD, Leopold, or even CM Storm QF if you're on a budget.

Also, what do you mean "too small on the keys"?


----------



## szeged

i got my blackwidow 2013 ult for free, never tried a mech board before it, so far i really like it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The Razer isn't a very good mech board, and I'm fairly positive the G19s isn't even mechanical
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All about dat Ducky Shine, Filco MJT, WASD, Leopold, or even CM Storm QF if you're on a budget.
> 
> Also, what do you mean "too small on the keys"?


Never said G19S was mech









The keys on the Blackwidow and G19s are too small for my fingers. I end up hitting multiple keys. For this same reason, I bought a cheap "chicklet" style keyboard for my work computer as the oem dell was too small. Basically, I has large hands and fingers. Most keyboards don't go w/ my Wreck-It Ralph hands


----------



## BramSLI1

And with that, here's a current picture of my system with the lighting installed. I've stopped using the dye because it was beginning to clog my CPU block. At least that's what it looked like when I pulled my block apart. So I'm using Feser Base with a silver kill coil and distilled water.


----------



## wermad

Menacing looking, kewl


----------



## stickg1

I like my Blackwidow Ultimate way more than my CM QFR.

USPS says my CPU block and 360mm rad have been delivered! Trying to get out of work, have a bunch of errands, and give to get the kiddos. Gah! Need to get home!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Menacing looking, kewl


Thanks Werm, it's nothing even close to your monster though. I just thought it was time to get back on topic.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks Werm, it's nothing even close to your monster though. I just thought it was time to get back on topic.


Any plans on a new dual ddc top?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any plans on a new dual ddc top?


Not that I'm currently aware of. I think we did a pretty good job with the one we currently have. Do you have any suggestions that you'd like me to pass on?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not that I'm currently aware of. I think we did a pretty good job with the one we currently have. Do you have any suggestions that you'd like me to pass on?


Not really, just thinking of dual pumps and not wanting to get a top and then a new one comes out







. I hear the new pump is coming out, any info you can share for now?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not that I'm currently aware of. I think we did a pretty good job with the one we currently have. Do you have any suggestions that you'd like me to pass on?


See through polished acrylic?









Edit: While we are on the topic of the MCP50x, any plans for a MCP50x2?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To annoy yours and Skupple's ocd even further, I'm using an inexpensive Kensington wifi mouse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't care for mech keyboards, tried it and didn't like em. Gaming keyboards are too small on the keys for me. This large button Wave has been gaming with me for ~5 years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If it ain't broke, don't fix it (even after trying a Blackwidow and G19S)


I'm using a razer mech right now. The key space is huge. I put o-rings on it to quiet it down & reduce actuation.

I just picked up the razer ouroborus mouse. I am thoroughly disgusted with it so far. Mostly because the DPI light is broken, and amazon sent me what appears to be an older revision that requires a screw driver to modify. I'm not sure why I keep giving razer money. I see them as the lesser of two evils when compared to madkatz/saitek.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> See through polished acrylic?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: While we are on the topic of the MCP50x, any plans for a MCP50x2?


That would be awesome with some pastel running through it


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That would be awesome with some pastel running through it


There is a possibility of an MCP350X2. It's definitely something that's being looked at. The new pumps should be out in the next month and a half. Reviewers should start getting them in the next 3 weeks or so. That's the way it looks right now at least.


----------



## VSG

Please pass on the interest of see-through tops as well as MCP50x2 to Gabe


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm using a razer mech right now. The key space is huge. I put o-rings on it to quiet it down & reduce actuation.
> 
> I just picked up the razer ouroborus mouse. I am thoroughly disgusted with it so far. Mostly because the DPI light is broken, and amazon sent me what appears to be an older revision that requires a screw driver to modify. I'm not sure why I keep giving razer money. I see them as the lesser of two evils when compared to madkatz/saitek.


Thanks for the input








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There is a possibility of an MCP350X2. It's definitely something that's being looked at. The new pumps should be out in the next month and a half. Reviewers should start getting them in the next 3 weeks or so. That's the way it looks right now at least.


Cool







. Will be looking forward to this new pump


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Please pass on the interest of see-through tops as well as MCP50x2 to Gabe


Yeah, this has been brought up to Gabe in the past, and the issue is that producing a hard acrylic top for these pumps isn't a very simple process. It just isn't something that we're looking at right now.


----------



## VSG

Fair enough but disappointed nonetheless.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


Wow that is a beautiful setup


----------



## stickg1

Gettin' er' shiny


So nice to finally get my CPU under water! Gotta love the removable mobo tray, talk about convenience!


Not final configuration, but checking the performance!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> Wow that is a beautiful setup


Thank you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Gettin' er' shiny
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So nice to finally get my CPU under water! Gotta love the removable mobo tray, talk about convenience!
> 
> 
> Not final configuration, but checking the performance!


Thick always dimms the color of the dye. Here's my old 690 setup w/ 3/8x1/2 tube:
Quote:


>


----------



## stickg1

Yeah that looks better! I wanted to do just ocean blue but I ran out of undyed X1 coolant halfway through the fill so I had to taint it with used purple X1 I had on hand just to get her filled up!

I think the final fill will be a custom sky blue pastel.


----------



## skupples

so that is why Mayhem's white dye is almost always sold out. people use it as a base.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Gettin' er' shiny
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So nice to finally get my CPU under water! Gotta love the removable mobo tray, talk about convenience!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not final configuration, but checking the performance!


Looks fantastic! If I were you, though, I'd decouple the pump from the case by resting it on something like a foam pad, i.e:



As quiet as people say DDC/D5 pumps are, they provide some hefty vibration that can turn your case, no matter how good your case feet are, into a large vibrator. Just my







. Other than that, damn nice job!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Looks fantastic! If I were you, though, I'd decouple the pump from the case by resting it on something like a foam pad, i.e:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As quiet as people say DDC/D5 pumps are, they provide some hefty vibration that can turn your case, no matter how good your case feet are, into a *large vibrator*. Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Other than that, damn nice job!





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn, that was fast. Someone actually got the joke







!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so that is why Mayhem's white dye is almost always sold out. people use it as a base.


Yeah, that and white is really popular on it's own.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Looks fantastic! If I were you, though, I'd decouple the pump from the case by resting it on something like a foam pad, i.e:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As quiet as people say DDC/D5 pumps are, they provide some hefty vibration that can turn your case, no matter how good your case feet are, into a large vibrator. Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Other than that, damn nice job!


I actually don't have it screwed down, yet. I'm getting the EK DDC heatsink with rubber feet for this purpose. The way I have the tubing setup up right now the pump/res doesn't move unless forced.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Indigo extreme is definitely one of the strongest cleaners I've ever used but it's also pretty expensive. You can get a gallon of 99% alcohol for the price of a " large " bottle of extreme


I expect my lil bottle of Indigo will cost me less than a $1 a build or or $0.10 a chip....hardly anything to quibble about. I use a Q tip and after 3 builds (1 full water, 2 air remounts of GPU and CPU coolers) I have more than 3/4 of the bottle left. Use the Gelid "oar" squeegee thingie to get the bulk off first. Another plus is .... the kids don't steal my Indigo to pat down their zits..... I have seen mayonaisse, peanut butter and lots other thinks tested but not sure what the thermal conductivity is for "zit juice'.


----------



## Anoxy

X-posting this from the Aqualis thread in hopes of getting some help....

Alright, either I'm making some fatal mistake here, or this reservoir is the steamiest pile of crap ever









I finally got my loop plumbed and everything was ready to be leak tested. I started filling it up, and guess what, it's pouring out the back of my reservoir as fast as I fill it.

So I unmounted the reservoir assembly and fill it up again to see where the water is leaking from, and it's coming out of the LED cable routing slot....what the fluff?

I'm at a loss for words right now....am I doing something wrong here? Pic below shows the LED cable routing slot, with the black cables coming out.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Is the mounting hardware from the res to the pump screwed tight enough or is the gasket pinched?


----------



## Anoxy

It shouldn't have anything to do with the pump, because it's leaking out of that cable routing hole above the pump. I unmounted and remounted the D5 adapter several times to no avail. It's an issue with the reservoir I think.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> X-posting this from the Aqualis thread in hopes of getting some help....
> 
> Alright, either I'm making some fatal mistake here, or this reservoir is the steamiest pile of crap ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got my loop plumbed and everything was ready to be leak tested. I started filling it up, and guess what, it's pouring out the back of my reservoir as fast as I fill it.
> 
> So I unmounted the reservoir assembly and fill it up again to see where the water is leaking from, and it's coming out of the LED cable routing slot....what the fluff?
> 
> I'm at a loss for words right now....am I doing something wrong here? Pic below shows the LED cable routing slot, with the black cables coming out.


I have the same setup, and the only things that come to mind to check is whether you plugged up the side port as shown here in yellow circle:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







or to make sure the oring is still intact in this location of the reservoir:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is just mostly assumed given the location of where the water is coming out, other than these two locations I do not really know where else it could come out of in order for it to come out of that location.

OR it could be that the acrylic on top of the LEDs could be faulty in some way? Have you checked the LED slots?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

After saving up and working overtime hours last summer for my rig, I was limited in cash to further spend on myself. Now that its all set and done, I'm able to hit the steak houses and buy me fancy threads. Not that anyone here cares lol.

Just as I thought my build was done. tragedy struck and one of my EK blocks leaked and killed one of my gpus. I can't make up my mind about which blocks to use, EK looked great and perform the best for GK110, but unless EK sends me new complete blocks, I'm not buying another single EK product in my life. So, what are some good alternatives? I like the aquacomputer blocks, but PPCs doesn't stock the ones I want. Suggestions?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> I have the same setup, and the only things that come to mind to check is whether you plugged up the side port as shown here in yellow circle:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or to make sure the oring is still intact in this location of the reservoir:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is just mostly assumed given the location of where the water is coming out, other than these two locations I do not really know where else it could come out of in order for it to come out of that location.
> 
> OR it could be that the acrylic on top of the LEDs could be faulty in some way? Have you checked the LED slots?


Oh my god, really!? Was that in the instructions? I swear I read them like 5 times over and didn't see anything about plugging that port on the pump adapter.....now I feel stupid. Thank you!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> After saving up and working overtime hours last summer for my rig, I was limited in cash to further spend on myself. Now that its all set and done, I'm able to hit the steak houses and buy me fancy threads. Not that anyone here cares lol.
> 
> Just as I thought my build was done. tragedy struck and one of my EK blocks leaked and killed one of my gpus. I can't make up my mind about which blocks to use, EK looked great and perform the best for GK110, but unless EK sends me new complete blocks, I'm not buying another single EK product in my life. So, what are some good alternatives? I like the aquacomputer blocks, but PPCs doesn't stock the ones I want. Suggestions?


the new XSPC blocks are on par with EK performance from what I understand.

That whole "we will send you new cold plates" business is complete & utter shenanigans. I'm sitting here with 2 brand new cold plates, but no tops because they sent me the wrong plate revisions. EK doesn't sell titan tops, & they refuse to sell them to me when I request via email.









I guess sending them pictures of XXL plates wasn't good enough. I was supposed to specify. I was unaware (and is not listed anywhere on their site) that they made a new revision to fit all reference GK110 cards(standoffs differ). Still, i'm offering cash money + shipping to have them send me the correct tops.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Oh my god, really!? Was that in the instructions? I swear I read them like 5 times over and didn't see anything about plugging that port on the pump adapter.....now I feel stupid. Thank you!!!


I am not sure if it is in the instructions, but I remember I had a conversation with Shoggy about the base and one of the things that came up was that:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The port on the side is the inlet . The unused inlet connector on the side of the pump module will be closed with a plug.
> 
> In your photo the plug in the center must be removed. The other one will stay closed.


So I already knew before hand to do it, and I never fully read the instructions.









I guess what is happening is once there is enough liquid it begins to seep out through this inlet since there is no real seal other than just the flat surface of the reservoir.


----------



## Anoxy

I guess I should have figured that out, considering that port doesn't even match up to anything on the reservoir lol. Thanks again, now I can finally start flushing and leak testing this badboy.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quick Question, and I really need an answer. I am trying to figure out why one core would be running 65 and the other 3 are running around 74. I have only had this seems to happen after installing the EKWB Supremacy block. I did switch out the inside feed to the one that "works best with 115* sockets, rather than leaving the stock on in there... I also have the feed going in and then out from left to right, instead of putting the in "down" and the out at the "top/up"

Should i switch the feed piece inside and also rotate the block 90 degrees so that gravity can pull Air out, if there is any in there?

Also, both EK Blocks and the GPUs are running at 34/40 depending on Ambient under full load.


----------



## Forceman

It's very common with Intel chips. They are long and thin and one core is next to the (presumably) disabled iGPU which acts as a kind of heatsink for that core. You can lower the difference sometimes, but 10C between cores is pretty normal.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

When I had a 120mm CLC, they stayed very close together and never went over 70°.... The biggest difference was 2-3° depending on the Core. I am just worried and thinking that with a 120 and a 280 rad, that the Temps would be a little lower that before, not higher with lower ambient.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> When I had a 120mm CLC, they stayed very close together and never went over 70°.... The biggest difference was 2-3° depending on the Core. I am just worried and thinking that with a 120 and a 280 rad, that the Temps would be a little lower that before, not higher with lower ambient.


It is definitely not a problem and just normal for a processor, don't worry it's absolutely fine. I do think it's strange that your clc cooled your CPU better then the custom 120 and 280 rad your using now tho


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> It is definitely not a problem and just normal for a processor, don't worry it's absolutely fine. I do think it's strange that your clc cooled your CPU better then the custom 120 and 280 rad your using now tho


I think that is the only thing bothering me. I think there is an air bubble in there or something. I just got two hose clamps, so I am going to pull the block off, switch the internal plate back, and move the out port to the top and see if that helps.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I guess I should have figured that out, considering that port doesn't even match up to anything on the reservoir lol.


To make you feel better, you are not the first one who did that wrong


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> After saving up and working overtime hours last summer for my rig, I was limited in cash to further spend on myself. Now that its all set and done, I'm able to hit the steak houses and buy me fancy threads. Not that anyone here cares lol.
> 
> Just as I thought my build was done. tragedy struck and one of my EK blocks leaked and killed one of my gpus. I can't make up my mind about which blocks to use, EK looked great and perform the best for GK110, but unless EK sends me new complete blocks, I'm not buying another single EK product in my life. So, what are some good alternatives? I like the aquacomputer blocks, but PPCs doesn't stock the ones I want. Suggestions?


How did the block leak? Was it brand new, used, taken apart to be cleaned?

I have two, and I love them. Most of my entire loop is made with EK stuff (because they can ship to me with a sense of urgency)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I think that is the only thing bothering me. I think there is an air bubble in there or something. I just got two hose clamps, so I am going to pull the block off, switch the internal plate back, and move the out port to the top and see if that helps.


sounds like it may be time to re-mount your cpu block.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sounds like it may be time to re-mount your cpu block.


I was checking post before shutting down the system, and I am getting ready to try remounting, changing the TIM from Artic Silver 5 over to the stuff EK provided (or maybe Ceramique 2, dependant if one is better than the other). I will have my phone up and running, if someone can shoot me a little input on which of the three TIMs listed would be best...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I was checking post before shutting down the system, and I am getting ready to try remounting, changing the TIM from Artic Silver 5 over to the stuff EK provided (or maybe Ceramique 2, dependant if one is better than the other). I will have my phone up and running, if someone can shoot me a little input on which of the three TIMs listed would be best...


They should all be within 1-3C of each other. Just put a dot down & smush the block down. Don't worry about X pattern, line pattern, smiley face pattern.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They should all be within 1-3C of each other. Just put a dot down & smush the block down. Don't worry about X pattern, line pattern, smiley face pattern.


Crap, smiley face may have been the problem last time...

I actually did a small dot, but I didn't rotate the block at all to force it to spread, so I am going to give it a few small shifts just to try to thin it out a little more this round.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> X-posting this from the Aqualis thread in hopes of getting some help....
> 
> Alright, either I'm making some fatal mistake here, or this reservoir is the steamiest pile of crap ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got my loop plumbed and everything was ready to be leak tested. I started filling it up, and guess what, it's pouring out the back of my reservoir as fast as I fill it.
> 
> So I unmounted the reservoir assembly and fill it up again to see where the water is leaking from, and it's coming out of the LED cable routing slot....what the fluff?
> 
> I'm at a loss for words right now....am I doing something wrong here? Pic below shows the LED cable routing slot, with the black cables coming out.


Hi, I gotta ask, what's the overall height of the res and pump?
I've only got 200mm clearance. By any chance this combo can fit?
Or does anyone have another tube res/d5 pump combo recommendation?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Fire in the Hole!



Temps dropped 6 degrees so far... I decided to try out the Ceramique and see how it does. There is still an 10 degree difference between core 4 and core 1, but I am not worried about that. Now I need to work the bubbles out, and sit around wondering... What now?

This computer is finished... I may try to get to 4.7-4.8 or higher without overheating, but I am happy with everything now.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hi, I gotta ask, what's the overall height of the res and pump?
> I've only got 200mm clearance. By any chance this combo can fit?
> Or does anyone have another tube res/d5 pump combo recommendation?


This is the 880mL version, the res alone is well over 200mm.

Question: I have the Swiftech MCP-655-PWM...when I do the 24-pin paperclip thing to leak test my loop, should it be running at full speed? I ask because it doesn't seem to be providing enough power to fully circulate coolant through my loop.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hi, I gotta ask, what's the overall height of the res and pump?
> I've only got 200mm clearance. By any chance this combo can fit?
> Or does anyone have another tube res/d5 pump combo recommendation?


It is not listed on our site yet, but we have already produced a D5 adapter which has the glass tube (a much smaller variant) directly attached to it so you do not need two separate parts. This solution is much more compact and should be also fit into your 200mm range.

The variant that Anoxy is using is much longer and will not fit. The tube part alone (smallest variant) is almost 170mm.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It is not listed on our site yet, but we have already produced a D5 adapter which has the glass tube (a much smaller variant) directly attached to it so you do not need two separate parts. This solution is much more compact and should be also fit into your 200mm range.
> 
> The variant that Anoxy is using is much longer and will not fit. The tube part alone (smallest variant) is almost 170mm.


Interesting. Any pictures?


----------



## Shoggy

I am not in the office right now









It looks pretty much the same as our aqualis DDC 100 or 150 adapter.


----------



## GhostDog99

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Temps dropped 6 degrees so far... I decided to try out the Ceramique and see how it does. There is still an 10 degree difference between core 4 and core 1, but I am not worried about that. Now I need to work the bubbles out, and sit around wondering... What now?
> 
> This computer is finished... I may try to get to 4.7-4.8 or higher without overheating, but I am happy with everything now.






just that you know the temps you are seeing are not your real Teams As you are using Real Team GT that is mad for 6 core CPUs

on a 4770k that is a 4 Core CPU you Should really use Real Temp ( the one with out the GT after it ) for accurate Temp readings


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I expect my lil bottle of Indigo will cost me less than a $1 a build or or $0.10 a chip....hardly anything to quibble about. I use a Q tip and after 3 builds (1 full water, 2 air remounts of GPU and CPU coolers) I have more than 3/4 of the bottle left. Use the Gelid "oar" squeegee thingie to get the bulk off first. Another plus is .... the kids don't steal my Indigo to pat down their zits..... I have seen mayonaisse, peanut butter and lots other thinks tested but not sure what the thermal conductivity is for "zit juice'.


you are correct. I have used the same large bottle of Extreme for almost a year. Clean up the majority with 99%, use indigo for the rest. It still isn't the go to product for dissolving thermal adhesive.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Question: I have the Swiftech MCP-655-PWM...when I do the 24-pin paperclip thing to leak test my loop, should it be running at full speed? I ask because it doesn't seem to be providing enough power to fully circulate coolant through my loop.


Adding to this, I don't know if it's the pump, or if there is some sort of blockage in my loop. Water is not moving past the second GPU. I'm at the end of myself with this right now. Everything was going so well and now it seems I've hit every watercooling issue known to man.


----------



## szeged

problem after problem, youre starting to look like luna 2.0


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Adding to this, I don't know if it's the pump, or if there is some sort of blockage in my loop. Water is not moving past the second GPU. I'm at the end of myself with this right now. Everything was going so well and now it seems I've hit every watercooling issue known to man.


Nope, without the PWM input working it should be running at 60% if provided with only the molex feed. It should be enough for almost any loop. You might need to crank up after leaking testing to a 100% to finish the bleeding but yes the liquid should be circulating on the loop and stabilizing after a while even at 60%. Can you take a picture of your current setup? Particularly the GPU? From top of my head it might be that your input/output from one card to the other might not be stacked properly.

Hope it helps.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Question: I have the Swiftech MCP-655-PWM...when I do the 24-pin paperclip thing to leak test my loop, should it be running at full speed? I ask because it doesn't seem to be providing enough power to fully circulate coolant through my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Adding to this, I don't know if it's the pump, or if there is some sort of blockage in my loop. Water is not moving past the second GPU. I'm at the end of myself with this right now. Everything was going so well and now it seems I've hit every watercooling issue known to man.
Click to expand...

In my case, my vario pump have to work harder to push water from CPU to top radiator. I can tell because the pump is slightly audible. It took few seconds. At first it seems water doesn't want move past the CPU but few seconds later I can see water moving slowly to top radiator. Once water past the top radiator, water circulated through the loop quickly & pump no longer audible.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The GPU shroud gets its first lick of paint.





And the res face plate kindly cut for me by PARVUM.


----------



## Trolle BE

so alphacool doesnt wanna warrant my leaky rad because i was using a silver coil
that blows


----------



## VSG

That is ridiculous!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nope, without the PWM input working it should be running at 60% if provided with only the molex feed. It should be enough for almost any loop. You might need to crank up after leaking testing to a 100% to finish the bleeding but yes the liquid should be circulating on the loop and stabilizing after a while even at 60%. Can you take a picture of your current setup? Particularly the GPU? From top of my head it might be that your input/output from one card to the other might not be stacked properly.
> 
> Hope it helps.


Here is what my loop currently looks like. I had to swap out the EK dual parallel bridge on my GPUs because I need to order an extender for one of the ports.

As it stands, water is not running out of the bottom GPU block, and it doesn't look like it's made it to the top radiator.

whoops, forgot the pic:


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> so alphacool doesnt wanna warrant my leaky rad because i was using a silver coil
> that blows


that sucks, as well as blows. Does this mean they won't honour their warrenty on anyone using silver in general. I've just bought a 280mm and 360mm acool rads. Waiting on monsooon's sliver coated hardline fittings to hit the UK.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my loop currently looks like. I had to swap out the EK dual parallel bridge on my GPUs because I need to order an extender for one of the ports.
> 
> As it stands, water is not running out of the bottom GPU block, and it doesn't look like it's made it to the top radiator.
> 
> whoops, forgot the pic:


Shake that beast.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> so alphacool doesnt wanna warrant my leaky rad because i was using a silver coil
> that blows


should have told them you were using their coolant... or something.


----------



## ledzepp3

So the last run of tubing was just installed in my rig, and I'm soon to start filling her up (not meant to be inappropriate). I have a single D5 pushing through two EK 290X blocks, two EK memory blocks, an EK Supremacy, and 360mm and 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiators. I'm looking for this thing to be _silent_, so what would you guys recommend I set my pump speed to as I have a vario D5. It's set at 2 right now, but I'm not sure if it'll be enough to have the flow and pressure required to push through all these components and the 10/12mm acrylic tubing I have.

-Zepp


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Shake that beast.
> should have told them you were using their coolant... or something.


I tilted and turned it pretty violently on its casters. Not sure if I need to completely flip it upside down or what....guess I can put it back together and try. This is a real pain in the arse.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> So the last run of tubing was just installed in my rig, and I'm soon to start filling her up (not meant to be inappropriate). I have a single D5 pushing through two EK 290X blocks, two EK memory blocks, an EK Supremacy, and 360mm and 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiators. I'm looking for this thing to be _silent_, so what would you guys recommend I set my pump speed to as I have a vario D5. It's set at 2 right now, but I'm not sure if it'll be enough to have the flow and pressure required to push through all these components and the 10/12mm acrylic tubing I have.
> 
> -Zepp


Why not crank it to the highest speed that doesn't audibly bother you?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I tilted and turned it pretty violently on its casters. Not sure if I need to completely flip it upside down or what....guess I can put it back together and try. This is a real pain in the arse.
> Why not crank it to the highest speed that doesn't audibly bother you?


See the problem is I haven't ever heard a D5 pump running in real life. Plus it's mounted in my case where it's impossible to stick my head or even a camera underneath it to see where the speed selector switch is.

-Zepp


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

IMO the speed selector switch is a major PITA. I used a skinny screwdriver wedged into it to turn the dial.

I keep my D5 on 4 and I can't hear it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I tilted and turned it pretty violently on its casters. Not sure if I need to completely flip it upside down or what....guess I can put it back together and try. This is a real pain in the arse.
> Why not crank it to the highest speed that doesn't audibly bother you?


I normally fill up my rads externally before filling up the res & turning on the pumps. Helps a bit with bleeding issues.


----------



## ledzepp3

I'll set it right in the middle, 3 and if I can, drop it to two!









-Zepp


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I normally fill up my rads externally before filling up the res & turning on the pumps. Helps a bit with bleeding issues.


..how? Once you unplug them to screw fittings in, the water starts pouring out.

sheesh I thought I was past all these rookie obstacles


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> ..how? Once you unplug them to screw fittings in, the water starts pouring out.
> 
> sheesh I thought I was past all these rookie obstacles


I think he means from the top ports while the rad is already installed....


----------



## PinzaC55

I'm thinking of making this my new avatar.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Here is what my loop currently looks like. I had to swap out the EK dual parallel bridge on my GPUs because I need to order an extender for one of the ports.
> 
> As it stands, water is not running out of the bottom GPU block, and it doesn't look like it's made it to the top radiator.
> 
> whoops, forgot the pic:


Referring to the "Watercooling Fail" video and the discussion of it here, when you fill it are you leaving a port open on the reservoir so that air can escape? I normally fill from the top of the res, remove funnel, power up briefly then repeat.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> ..how? Once you unplug them to screw fittings in, the water starts pouring out.
> 
> sheesh I thought I was past all these rookie obstacles


Fill them, from the top ports, when the system is completely dry. This reduced bleeding time on my system by a good 20-30 minutes. Specially with the vertically mounted front radiator.

As said above, you *100%* need to leave the reservoir open when bleeding. fill, power on, let drain, turn off, rinse repeat. Though, I have found that sealing the reservoir for 2-3 seconds while bleeding can help suck pesky air bubbles out of the system.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I'm thinking of making this my new avatar.
> Referring to the "Watercooling Fail" video and the discussion of it here, when you fill it are you leaving a port open on the reservoir so that air can escape? I normally fill from the top of the res, remove funnel, power up briefly then repeat.


I'm filling from the top of the reservoir with a tube connected to a G1/4 funnel. Powering on initially draws water out of the res and into the pump, but then after like 30 seconds it stops and nothing else happens. Left it like this for an hour or so and nothing further happens. Could it be because I have that right angle coming out of the pump?...I don't think that should be an issue...

I'll try leaving a second port on top open on the res, but I don't see how that would help considering the fillport is open already on top of the res.

edit: yep, same thing. Water doesn't even make it up out of the first radiator.

I momentarily loosened this stop plug on the bottom GPU, and while water spurted out, air escaped and my loop started to flow.....so there must be some ginormous air pockets in there? Not sure how to relieve that pressure.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i have never left my res uncapped to fill and bleed my system. the air isnt escaping anywhere. it is being displaced by the water. an airlock is caused by a different reason.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm filling from the top of the reservoir with a tube connected to a G1/4 funnel. Powering on initially draws water out of the res and into the pump, but then after like 30 seconds it stops and nothing else happens. Left it like this for an hour or so and nothing further happens. Could it be because I have that right angle coming out of the pump?...I don't think that should be an issue...
> 
> I'll try leaving a second port on top open on the res, but I don't see how that would help considering the fillport is open already on top of the res.
> 
> edit: yep, same thing. Water doesn't even make it up out of the first radiator.
> 
> I momentarily loosened this stop plug on the bottom GPU, and while water spurted out, air escaped and my loop started to flow.....so there must be some ginormous air pockets in there? Not sure how to relieve that pressure.


Are you using two returns? I'm not familiar with how the Aqualis works, so i'm curious why you have 3 connections to the pump/res combo.

The D5 should have *plenty* of power to push through that loop.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I'm thinking of making this my new avatar.
> Referring to the "Watercooling Fail" video and the discussion of it here, when you fill it are you leaving a port open on the reservoir so that air can escape? I normally fill from the top of the res, remove funnel, power up briefly then repeat.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm filling from the top of the reservoir with a tube connected to a G1/4 funnel. Powering on initially draws water out of the res and into the pump, but then after like 30 seconds it stops and nothing else happens. Left it like this for an hour or so and nothing further happens. Could it be because I have that right angle coming out of the pump?...I don't think that should be an issue...
> 
> I'll try leaving a second port on top open on the res, but I don't see how that would help considering the fillport is open already on top of the res.
> 
> edit: yep, same thing. Water doesn't even make it up out of the first radiator.
> 
> I momentarily loosened this stop plug on the bottom GPU, and while water spurted out, air escaped and my loop started to flow.....so there must be some ginormous air pockets in there? Not sure how to relieve that pressure.
Click to expand...

I'm not real familiar with your res, but it looks like you have the pump output going to the front rad, then somehow, (it's not visible in the pic) to the top rad, and then down to the top GPU, to the lower GPU, and lastly to the CPU and back to the res.

With the fittings at the bottom of the front rad, I'd bet you're air bound, and can't push coolant thru that rad.

The coolant in the tube to the GPU is just water seeking its own level from what's in the res backing out the inlet tube.

Can you clarify your pump's in and out, and your loop order, please

If I'm on the right track, loosen the tube at the top rad to upper GPU fitting, wrap a big towel around the area, and power up the pump.

Water should come after a lot of air.

Darlene


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm not real familiar with your res, but it looks like you have the pump output going to the front rad, then somehow, (it's not visible in the pic) to the top rad, and then down to the top GPU, to the lower GPU, and lastly to the CPU and back to the res.
> 
> With the fittings at the bottom of the front rad, I'd bet you're air bound, and can't push coolant thru that rad.
> 
> The coolant in the tube to the GPU is just water seeking its own level from what's in the res backing out the inlet tube.
> 
> Can you clarify your pump's in and out, and your loop order, please
> 
> If I'm on the right track, loosen the tube at the top rad to upper GPU fitting, wrap a big towel around the area, and power up the pump.
> 
> Water should come after a lot of air.
> 
> Darlene


Yep, you're spot on about my loop order and pump in/out. From the front rad's bottom back port I have a tube running up the front panel, then alongside the top rad to the back port of the top rad, then everything else is as you described.

The inlet on the reservoir pushes water up that steel pipe in the middle to create a fountain effect out of the top of it.

Would it accomplish the same thing to open this port on the top rad and power the pump on, or should I just loosen that GPU --> top rad connection like you said?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm not real familiar with your res, but it looks like you have the pump output going to the front rad, then somehow, (it's not visible in the pic) to the top rad, and then down to the top GPU, to the lower GPU, and lastly to the CPU and back to the res.
> 
> With the fittings at the bottom of the front rad, I'd bet you're air bound, and can't push coolant thru that rad.
> 
> The coolant in the tube to the GPU is just water seeking its own level from what's in the res backing out the inlet tube.
> 
> Can you clarify your pump's in and out, and your loop order, please
> 
> If I'm on the right track, loosen the tube at the top rad to upper GPU fitting, wrap a big towel around the area, and power up the pump.
> 
> Water should come after a lot of air.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, you're spot on about my loop order and pump in/out. From the front rad's bottom back port I have a tube running up the front panel, then alongside the top rad to the back port of the top rad, then everything else is as you described.
> 
> The inlet on the reservoir pushes water up that steel pipe in the middle to create a fountain effect out of the top of it.
> 
> Would it accomplish the same thing to open this port on the top rad and power the pump on, or should I just loosen that GPU --> top rad connection like you said?
Click to expand...

That port should be fine, just have plenty of towel.

D.


----------



## mr sadistics

hi to all. im working in my third watercooling loop! under construction.









its wrong the position of my pump ?



sorry for the bad quality of my pic! and my bad english


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i have never left my res uncapped to fill and bleed my system. the air isnt escaping anywhere. it is being displaced by the water. an airlock is caused by a different reason.


How do you mean? If it's a sealed loop and the air doesn't escape it can't be displaced by the water, the only option is for the air to become compressed.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> How do you mean? If it's a sealed loop and the air doesn't escape it can't be displaced by the water, the only option is for the air to become compressed.


where is the air escaping to? are you going to say the res? whats in the res when the air escapes?
all you do is push the air through the system with water. the water goes where the air was. the air goes where the water was. the water displaces the air, ie the water takes the place of the air. (closed loop)

loop holds 1 liter of uncompressed water. that means the loop holds 1 liter of uncompressed air. put in 1/2 liter of water and there is still 1/2 liter of air. you just want to move the air towards and into the res so you can replace the air in the res with water. the air doesnt escape the res unless you are constantly pouring water into the res as the pump runs pushing the water into the places that the air is currently occupying. all of this means, the water is displacing the air. the air just moves along filling where the water 'was', in your res.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> where is the air escaping to? are you going to say the res? whats in the res when the air escapes?
> all you do is push the air through the system with water. the water goes where the air was. the air goes where the water was. the water displaces the air, ie the water takes the place of the air. (closed loop)
> 
> loop holds 1 liter of uncompressed water. that means the loop holds 1 liter of uncompressed air. put in 1/2 liter of water and there is still 1/2 liter of air. you just want to move the air towards and into the res so you can replace the air in the res with water. the air doesnt escape the res unless you are constantly pouring water into the res as the pump runs pushing the water into the places that the air is currently occupying. all of this means, the water is displacing the air. the air just moves along filling where the water 'was', in your res.


Perhaps I am misunderstanding you but the air escapes through the open top port of the reservoir.Then you fill the res with more coolant.


----------



## pc-illiterate

the air coming from the tubing, blocks, rad and fittings leaves said components when the water pushes it out. that air goes into the res. it cannot escape the res. if it escaped the res, what would be taking its place?

half fill a 1 liter coke or any other bottle with water. cap it tight. turn the bottle upside down and any other way you want. did the air need to escape for the water to go to a different part of the bottle? it is the exact same principle. 1 liter of water or 1 liter of air or 1/2 liter of water and 1/2 liter of air. it is the same volume.
you know the blow up kiddie pool life savers? looks like an O ? half fill it with water and seal/plug it back up. swish the water around the 'loop'. the water moves around the loop even though its sealed. the air inside that 'loop' didnt need to escape. the water went where the air was and the air went where the water was.

it cant be explained easier.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That port should be fine, just have plenty of towel.
> 
> D.


Ninja edit: that purged my loop of the air blockage, but it still doesn't look like the water is being cycled back into my reservoir.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That port should be fine, just have plenty of towel.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Ninja edit: that purged my loop of the air blockage, but it still doesn't look like the water is being cycled back into my reservoir.
Click to expand...

If you feel like you got all the air out of the front rad, nothing but water from the purge port, now loosen the tubing coming out of the top rad to GPU and be sure that rad is well purged. If it has ports on top, use one of those with an extension in it to vent the air.

Can you have that fill tube in the top of the res open to atmosphere as well.

You may still be airbound.

Darlene


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> 
> just that you know the temps you are seeing are not your real Teams As you are using Real Team GT that is mad for 6 core CPUs
> 
> on a 4770k that is a 4 Core CPU you Should really use Real Temp ( the one with out the GT after it ) for accurate Temp readings


Switched over to Realt Temp, non Gt.. Temperatures are exactly the same.  Thanks for the heads up though.


----------



## ledzepp3

Alright so the loop is ready to be filled but I've got one question which is slightly off topic, but it's got the word water somewhere in it so this is the place to ask. I don't have an external power supply to run the water pump, and the power supply that's in the case has no rear power switch (It's a Silverstone Strider ST-1000G). How would you guys advise I run it all? With the cables plugged in but with paper towels and an eagle eye at the ready? I'm so ridiculously excited to have this PC running as this project has been a year in the works.

-Zepp


----------



## pc-illiterate

jump the psu and use a surge protector for an on/off switch.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> the air coming from the tubing, blocks, rad and fittings leaves said components when the water pushes it out. that air goes into the res. it cannot escape the res. if it escaped the res, what would be taking its place?
> 
> half fill a 1 liter coke or any other bottle with water. cap it tight. turn the bottle upside down and any other way you want. did the air need to escape for the water to go to a different part of the bottle? it is the exact same principle. 1 liter of water or 1 liter of air or 1/2 liter of water and 1/2 liter of air. it is the same volume.
> you know the blow up kiddie pool life savers? looks like an O ? half fill it with water and seal/plug it back up. swish the water around the 'loop'. the water moves around the loop even though its sealed. the air inside that 'loop' didnt need to escape. the water went where the air was and the air went where the water was.
> 
> it cant be explained easier.


I understand what you are saying, but you are not explaining why a vacuum is then formed inside the loop during bleeding with a sealed reservoir.
As you posted below "a different reason"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i have never left my res uncapped to fill and bleed my system. the air isnt escaping anywhere. it is being displaced by the water. an airlock is caused by a different reason.


and how exactly does one fill a sealed reservoir?


----------



## audioholic

Not to hijack but on my Prodigy I have a 240 in front and 240 on top.it seems like I am "air locked" as well. Radiator thatis vertical(front) seems to be gurgling like crazy. I tipped and tilted but did not try upside down. And I would assume with a 35x it would be pretty strong flow?


----------



## GhostDog99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Switched over to Realt Temp, non Gt.. Temperatures are exactly the same.  Thanks for the heads up though.


Weird with my 4770k the is a 5c deference
But no matter


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you feel like you got all the air out of the front rad, nothing but water from the purge port, now loosen the tubing coming out of the top rad to GPU and be sure that rad is well purged. If it has ports on top, use one of those with an extension in it to vent the air.
> 
> Can you have that fill tube in the top of the res open to atmosphere as well.
> 
> You may still be airbound.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks, I got that back port on the top rad to push out a steady flow of water, and I loosened the GPU-Top Rad connection, but it seems that water is just stationary in my loop now and it's not flowing up the center steel pipe in my res and back down into the reservoir.

Perhaps it's an issue with the reservoir itself. I could have plugged the wrong hole on the pump adapter....but I'm fairly sure I did not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Not to hijack but on my Prodigy I have a 240 in front and 240 on top.it seems like I am "air locked" as well. Radiator thatis vertical(front) seems to be gurgling like crazy. I tipped and tilted but did not try upside down. And I would assume with a 35x it would be pretty strong flow?


Yeah, definitely try opening your highest port possible with towels and cup ready to catch water, and power on the pump. That helped for me to get the air out. Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be the whole solution to my problem.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I have emailed EK. I am not impressed with this block at the moment. I am considering Delidding this cpu when I pull the block next time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostDog99*
> 
> Weird with my 4770k the is a 5c deference
> But no matter


I will keep a close eye on the Temps and make sure they don't get too high. I want to go up to 4.8 at least, and need to get the Temps down a few more degrees at least.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Adding to this, I don't know if it's the pump, or if there is some sort of blockage in my loop. Water is not moving past the second GPU. I'm at the end of myself with this right now. Everything was going so well and now it seems I've hit every watercooling issue known to man.


I hear that! I'm still waiting on my RMA blocks.... Grabbed a H100i and I'm putting the acx coolers back on for now :/


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr sadistics*
> 
> hi to all. im working in my third watercooling loop! under construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its wrong the position of my pump ?
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the bad quality of my pic! and my bad english


That should be fine. Just make sure that your reservoir is feeding into the port that's on the top of the pump. Those pumps can be oriented in many different positions. The only orientation that really won't work is to have it upside down.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I understand what you are saying, but you are not explaining why a vacuum is then formed inside the loop during bleeding with a sealed reservoir.


there is a difference between a vacuum and an air lock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> As you posted below "a different reason"


the air lock is still actually a hydro lock.
main water(continuous water from the pump)>>air(trapped between that < water and that > water)>>water(acting as plug)>>other air up to res/pump
the hydro lock/air lock occurs because there is a significant amount of water ahead of the air lock. that water acts as a plug just as the water in a pee trap works in house plumbing. the trapped air gets compressed when the pump water tries to displace it with water (the pump tries to move the water into the space the air is occupying). it compresses easily as it a gas which has less density than water. the pump doesnt have enough oomph to compress the air enough to overcome the pressure of the water trapping it. change this to a dual pump setup and that hydro locked air can be compressed further than a single pump can do. it has a better chance of pushing the water bubble causing hydro lock.
air can be compressed inside tubing, blocks, rads. this is the air that can be pushed out like anoxy is doing. in fact, this exact scenario is what anoxy is experiencing.
you cannot however bleed a res like this. you would need to be adding liquid or air under pressure someplace else in the loop( force feed the loop more air or water through something like a syringe).
as i stated 1 liter of air = 1 liter of water = 1/2 liter of air plus 1/2 liter of water (all uncompressed)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> and how exactly does one fill a sealed reservoir?


now youre just being ridiculous


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> there is a difference between a vacuum and an air lock.
> the air lock is still actually a hydro lock.
> main water(continuous water from the pump)>>air(trapped between that < water and that > water)>>water(acting as plug)>>other air up to res/pump
> the hydro lock/air lock occurs because there is a significant amount of water ahead of the air lock. that water acts as a plug just as the water in a pee trap works in house plumbing. the trapped air gets compressed when the pump water tries to displace it with water (the pump tries to move the water into the space the air is occupying). it compresses easily as it a gas which has less density than water. the pump doesnt have enough oomph to compress the air enough to overcome the pressure of the water trapping it. change this to a dual pump setup and that hydro locked air can be compressed further than a single pump can do. it has a better chance of pushing the water bubble causing hydro lock.
> air can be compressed inside tubing, blocks, rads. this is the air that can be pushed out like anoxy is doing. in fact, this exact scenario is what anoxy is experiencing.
> you cannot however bleed a res like this. you would need to be adding liquid or air under pressure someplace else in the loop( force feed the loop more air or water through something like a syringe).
> as i stated 1 liter of air = 1 liter of water = 1/2 liter of air plus 1/2 liter of water (all uncompressed)
> now youre just being ridiculous


thanks, but you can see a vacuum forming in the few "HOW NOT TO WATERCOOL" videos on youtube. Just look @ the tubing, you can see them constricting. So it seems both scenarios can happen.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you feel like you got all the air out of the front rad, nothing but water from the purge port, now loosen the tubing coming out of the top rad to GPU and be sure that rad is well purged. If it has ports on top, use one of those with an extension in it to vent the air.
> 
> Can you have that fill tube in the top of the res open to atmosphere as well.
> 
> You may still be airbound.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> *Thanks, I got that back port on the top rad to push out a steady flow of water, and I loosened the GPU-Top Rad connection, but it seems that water is just stationary in my loop now and it's not flowing up the center steel pipe in my res and back down into the reservoir.
> *
> Perhaps it's an issue with the reservoir itself. I could have plugged the wrong hole on the pump adapter....but I'm fairly sure I did not.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Not to hijack but on my Prodigy I have a 240 in front and 240 on top.it seems like I am "air locked" as well. Radiator thatis vertical(front) seems to be gurgling like crazy. I tipped and tilted but did not try upside down. And I would assume with a 35x it would be pretty strong flow?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, definitely try opening your highest port possible with towels and cup ready to catch water, and power on the pump. That helped for me to get the air out. Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be the whole solution to my problem.
Click to expand...

You may well be correct about having the wrong hole plugged, or the return line in the wrong port.

It sounds like the pump pushes water anywhere you open a path to atmosphere.

Darlene


----------



## pc-illiterate

i said there was a difference between a vacuum and hydro lock which, in redundancy, is different.
the vacuum happens because of the hydro lock causing an airlock(not really). the water causing the lock isnt moving as far as the air is being compressed. since the pumped water is trying to displace air that is being compressed as its pushed instead of being pushed further down the tubing, a vacuum is formed. the vacuum is formed because there is nothing to replace the original volume of uncompressed air.

fill a plastic jug or bottle. without the cap on turn it upside down completely so the water pulses out. notice the jug 'sucks in' then it 'blows back up' when it sucks water back in? yeah, thats what is happening.
honestly, its all avoided by correctly designing a loop or having rads with more than 2 damned ports. use those extra ports to fill your loop before ever turning on your pump.


----------



## skupples

inderpadeed.


----------



## TwentyCent

What would be the thinnest/lower profile G1/4" plug fitting out there? I have sort of a clearance issue








Thanks!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> What would be the thinnest/lower profile G1/4" plug fitting out there? I have sort of a clearance issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Plug, like stop fitting you mean?


----------



## pc-illiterate

bitspower low profile are the the lowest profile i believe


compared to


----------



## WiSK

And there's Koolance http://koolance.com/nozzle-socket-plug-black


----------



## stickg1

So the *Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow'* just plugs in to the PA2 or Aquero and gives a flow reading correct? Then this model, the *Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB"* can be a standalone unit and work with the PA2 or Aquero?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah I've ran into clearance issues before too. The Bitspower 'low-profile' stop fittings are 3mm, the same as the koolance fitting Wisk linked.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah. The main difference between the 2 is the non-USB version plugs into the 3pin "Flow" Header on the Aquaero. The USB version can be standalone or an Aquabus device.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So the *Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow'* just plugs in to the PA2 or Aquero and gives a flow reading correct? Then this model, the *Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB"* can be a standalone unit and work with the PA2 or Aquero?


1) yes
2) yes, I believe so.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 1) yes
> 2) yes, I believe so.


I could use that extra temp sensor for my ambient air temp. I don't know if that feature is worth the extra $30 if I plan to eventually get an Aquero anyway. Not sure what I should do.


----------



## iamkraine

I love me some acrylic


----------



## TwentyCent

Thanks for your input guys. Further looking at pictures, it would seem the Koolance has it's o-ring recessed in the cap, unlike the Bitspower. Koolance it is then!


----------



## kyismaster

anyone know what the hell is this? using silvercoil , antifreeze 1/3 parts water

here is my waterfilter : http://www.amazon.com/Aqua-FX-Barracuda-100-gpd/dp/B0043FYJ8M/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1394940616&sr=1-2&keywords=aquafx+barracuda

replaced all my tubing, but kept all the fittings the same, is it galvanic corrosion particle build up?

my fittings :

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25267

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34552 x 10 or so










Rad: http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-ax-series/ax240-dual-fan-radiator-black








block: http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel









Ive had the system since oct 2012, ive flushed it 4 times since then.


----------



## stickg1

Could be flaking metal. Why antifreeze?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Could be flaking metal. Why antifreeze?


antifreeze kills bacteria/ growth of whatever. its a test to see if that stuff is particulates or if its bio growth.

edit: i might have found my solution:








any thoughts?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I started getting Temps back up to 80 again. I think I am going to take it out again and take a look.

I have been reading a lot of reviews, and I do mean a lot, and most people with much higher voltage and overclock at running at 60°c under max load, with less Radiator space. I think I either need to get the other pump in or something. I shouldn't be getting 20°c higher than others with lower overclock.... Something isn't right.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> antifreeze kills bacteria/ growth of whatever. its a test to see if that stuff is particulates or if its bio growth.
> 
> edit: i might have found my solution:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any thoughts?


Yeah, get rid of the silver. Spend 15$ on some real coolant. Mayhem's X1 is top notch.

I'm not positive what the flakes are, but it definitely isn't metal.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah, get rid of the silver. Spend 15$ on some real coolant. Mayhem's X1 is top notch.
> 
> I'm not positive what the flakes are, but it definitely isn't metal.


id get pastels.... but..... its expensive for the amount of times ive changed my rig lol


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You may well be correct about having the wrong hole plugged, or the return line in the wrong port.
> 
> It sounds like the pump pushes water anywhere you open a path to atmosphere.
> 
> Darlene


Welp, I ripped the reservoir/pump out my system again to verify if I plugged the wrong port....nope, it's correct according to the Aquacomputer folks. So now all I can think of is that it is indeed air blockage. But if the water is making it all the way to my reservoir inlet, I don't understand how I'm supposed to get the air out there.

Gah, bleeding my old XSPC tank reservoir was a breeze. This is a nightmare.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Welp, I ripped the reservoir/pump out my system again to verify if I plugged the wrong port....nope, it's correct according to the Aquacomputer folks. So now all I can think of is that it is indeed air blockage. But if the water is making it all the way to my reservoir inlet, I don't understand how I'm supposed to get the air out there.
> 
> Gah, bleeding my old XSPC tank reservoir was a breeze. This is a nightmare.


@MeanBruce had some of the same issues with the same hardware, he may be able to help.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> id get pastels.... but..... its expensive for the amount of times ive changed my rig lol


so dont throw it away. drain your loop into a clear container. hell use a jug from the distilled water you will and did use.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> so dont throw it away. drain your loop into a clear container. hell use a jug from the distilled water you will and did use.


i dont use distilled water lol, I filter my own water purer than DI.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> My 1st ground-up PC and custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3930K @ 4.7GHz
> 16GB Dominator Platinum @ 2133MHz
> GTX 780 Ti w/ XSPC water-block & Heat Killer back-plate
> (2) 256GB Samsung 840 Pro (RAID0)
> (2) 500GB WD Velociraptors (RAID0)
> Mod Kobra red sleeve/heat-shrink
> AX1200
> EK Coolstream PE 120 (1) & 240mm (1) rads
> Corsair SP-120's (3)
> 1/2" Cooper tube
> Primochill Revolver rigid compression fittings (8)
> XSPC dual-bay res w/ D5 vari pump
> Distilled water


Very nice copper work there







!!!!


----------



## Anoxy

Just wanted to update on the off chance somebody reads this with the same problems (doubtful lol)...

I figured it out. I had to open the central port on my reservoir. I think this allowed air to escape up out of the inlet port and now water can run up the brass tube and back into the reservoir.

Here's a pic with all of the top ports open....which is necessary when the middle port is unplugged because water flows out of it and into the surrounding ports....Aquacomputer must have intended it this way with their design, which is why all the ports are recessed into a small pool area....quite ingenious! I just wish they would have mentioned this in their manual











Now hopefully when I plug that central port back up, it will still flow up the brass tube...


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i dont use distilled water lol, I filter my own water purer than DI.


Please explain how it is more pure than DI.

My college chem class has me under the impression that you get nothing but H20 from a good distillation process. Thus literally impossible to be more pure.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Please explain how it is more pure than DI.
> 
> My college chem class has me under the impression that you get nothing but H20 from a good distillation process. Thus literally impossible to be more pure.


Not sure. I thought DI was filtered down to .001 micron via reverse osmosis. Running sink water through three (likely) .05 micron filters isn't going to trump reverse osmosis.

I hope he doesn't have that thing hooked up to his loop, that would seriously reduce flow rates. Also, Pure DI is ion hungry, that is why most of us dilute it with additives that contain anti-corrosive properties... Oh, and because you can never go wrong with anti-bacterial + surfactant.


----------



## Anoxy

much light such brightness


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i dont use distilled water lol, I filter my own water purer than DI.
> 
> 
> 
> Please explain how it is more pure than DI.
> 
> My college chem class has me under the impression that you get nothing but H20 from a good distillation process. Thus literally impossible to be more pure.
Click to expand...

DI and Distilled are 2 very different processes.

DI is made by filters and resin ion beds,Distilled is flashed to steam and condensed.

Distilled is sterile

DI, less so.


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DI and Distilled are 2 very different processes.
> 
> DI is made by filters and resin ion beds,Distilled is flashed to steam and condensed.
> 
> Distilled is sterile
> 
> DI, less so.


Well then the DI on the label is just misleading.


----------



## dna-systems

My 1st ground-up PC and custom loop.





3930K @ 4.7GHz
16GB Dominator Platinum @ 2133MHz
GTX 780 Ti w/ XSPC water-block & Heat Killer back-plate
(2) 256GB Samsung 840 Pro (RAID0)
(2) 500GB WD Velociraptors (RAID0)
Mod Kobra red sleeve/heat-shrink
AX1200
EK Coolstream PE 120 (1) & 240mm (1) rads
Corsair SP-120's (3)
1/2" Cooper tube
Primochill Revolver rigid compression fittings (8)
XSPC dual-bay res w/ D5 vari pump
Distilled water


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> My 1st ground-up PC and custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3930K @ 4.7GHz
> 16GB Dominator Platinum @ 2133MHz
> GTX 780 Ti w/ XSPC water-block & Heat Killer back-plate
> (2) 256GB Samsung 840 Pro (RAID0)
> (2) 500GB WD Velociraptors (RAID0)
> Mod Kobra red sleeve/heat-shrink
> AX1200
> EK Coolstream PE 120 (1) & 240mm (1) rads
> Corsair SP-120's (3)
> 1/2" Cooper tube
> Primochill Revolver rigid compression fittings (8)
> XSPC dual-bay res w/ D5 vari pump
> Distilled water


it looks really neat!


----------



## VSG

So anyone know when the Bitspower 600mm rads are releasing? Or even any of their rads at all?


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So anyone know when the Bitspower 600mm rads are releasing? Or even any of their rads at all?


no idea but i rmb Bundy said the XSPC RX V3 is better on facebook


----------



## VSG

They only go up to 480mm though


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Well then the DI on the label is just misleading.


Yea, DI is easy to mix up with distilled because it's the first two letters of distilled. It actually means deionized.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Please explain how it is more pure than DI.
> 
> My college chem class has me under the impression that you get nothing but H20 from a good distillation process. Thus literally impossible to be more pure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not sure. I thought DI was filtered down to .001 micron via reverse osmosis. Running sink water through three (likely) .05 micron filters isn't going to trump reverse osmosis.
> 
> I hope he doesn't have that thing hooked up to his loop, that would seriously reduce flow rates. Also, Pure DI is ion hungry, that is why most of us dilute it with additives that contain anti-corrosive properties... Oh, and because you can never go wrong with anti-bacterial + surfactant.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> DI and Distilled are 2 very different processes.
> 
> DI is made by filters and resin ion beds,Distilled is flashed to steam and condensed.
> 
> Distilled is sterile
> 
> DI, less so.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Well then the DI on the label is just misleading.


http://www.melevsreef.com/why_rodi.html

its just a step beyond.

if i said distilled, well, im A drunk, B. sleep deprived and drunk, C. above and hungry.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

*Note!* this is not the most beautiful thing ever, and I am going to fix the wires later, BUT!!! I found the air bubbles that I believe we're causing my CPU to stay warmer than necessary... I haven't booted yet, but I added a second pump onto the EK280 right before the CPU block... Installation is not pretty, I promise...





After installing the second pump, I turned on pump one for about 5 minutes... When the lines were completely clear, I shut the power off, and restarted it with both pumps running... There was a substantial amount of bubbles that came out and now those have almost completely stopped... Now I am just waiting for the micro bubbles to work their way out.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

What is the most accurate temp monitoring tool? Asus and the bios are displaying up to 61° on the max load temp... Real temp is saying 80.... I am having a hard time believing real temp at this point.


----------



## VSG

You can get a water temperature sensor but it will not reflect actual component temperatures depending on how good your heat transfer is. Real temp is displaying 80 C under load, right? That BIOS temperature is likely idle then. Of course none of this makes sense since they are way too high unless you are on top of a volcano.


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> What is the most accurate temp monitoring tool? Asus and the bios are displaying up to 61° on the max load temp... Real temp is saying 80.... I am having a hard time believing real temp at this point.


My ASUS and realtemp seem to be in sync with my lowest core. Both show an average idle of 23°C and load @ 48-52°C...that said, speedfan shows the temps at 78°C idle. I'm favoring the lower of the readings because I can stick my finger on the side of my block and it is just slightly warm. If it was 78°C...I believe the tip of my finger would be one giant blister.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can get a water temperature sensor but it will not reflect actual component temperatures depending on how good your heat transfer is. Real temp is displaying 80 C under load, right? That BIOS temperature is likely idle then. Of course none of this makes sense since they are way too high unless you are on top of a volcano.


Yeah.. I am actually shivering, because it is cold.. the ambient is around 19 right now, and RealTemp always displays up to 80... know for a fact that it is getting fresh water at all times, as it is currently getting hit with the second pump directly.

Not sure what it going on, but to go from a 120mm CLC that costed about $95 over to a full custom loop with lots of radiator space and see the exact same temperatures does not make sense to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> My ASUS and realtemp seem to be in sync with my lowest core. Both show an average idle of 23°C and load @ 48-52°C...that said, speedfan shows the temps at 78°C idle. I'm favoring the lower of the readings because I can stick my finger on the side of my block and it is just slightly warm. If it was 78°C...I believe the tip of my finger would be one giant blister.


At idle, Asus said 25, realtemp said 32... under load, I am seeing 60 on Asus and 72-80 (dependent on the core). I am starting to think I may still have an air bubble somewhere. With two pumps, it is dumping the bubbles all the way to the bottom of the res, and I am not sure how to get that to stop so that the bubbles don't make it back in... I tried turning the pumps down with the PWM controller I bought, but that isn't helping.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> What is the most accurate temp monitoring tool? Asus and the bios are displaying up to 61° on the max load temp... Real temp is saying 80.... I am having a hard time believing real temp at this point.


Real Temp should be accurate. ASUS AI Suite only reading the CPU socket temp, not core temp. If BIOS is really showing 61C, that is pretty high & therefore I believe Real Temp reporting 80C.

What is your temp when using AIO? You didn't delid your CPU yet, so the high temp is expected, even with custom watercooling IMO.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Real Temp should be accurate. ASUS AI Suite only reading the CPU socket temp, not core temp. If BIOS is really showing 61C, that is pretty high & therefore I believe Real Temp reporting 80C.
> 
> What is your temp when using AIO? You didn't delid your CPU yet, so the high temp is expected, even with custom watercooling IMO.


As stated, AIO CLC was the same exact temp with a 120mm ENERMAX ELC120


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Real Temp should be accurate. ASUS AI Suite only reading the CPU socket temp, not core temp. If BIOS is really showing 61C, that is pretty high & therefore I believe Real Temp reporting 80C.
> 
> What is your temp when using AIO? You didn't delid your CPU yet, so the high temp is expected, even with custom watercooling IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As stated, AIO CLC was the same exact temp with a 120mm ENERMAX ELC120
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm confident you're getting high temp because your CPU is not delided yet. Bad TIM job at factory preventing your custom loop & even your previous AIO from working properly in cooling your CPU.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yeah, I'm confident you're getting high temp because your CPU is not delided yet. Bad TIM job at factory preventing your custom loop & even your previous AIO from working properly in cooling your CPU.


I really dont want to take this thing apart and deal with the bubbles again, lol. I may do that soon though.. Suggested time for that procedure? I had Artic Silver 5 (AS says it is slight capacative, not using it inside the lid) Ceramique 2 (currently on the block itself) and I have MX-4 inbound, hopefully this week.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yeah, I'm confident you're getting high temp because your CPU is not delided yet. Bad TIM job at factory preventing your custom loop & even your previous AIO from working properly in cooling your CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really dont want to take this thing apart and deal with the bubbles again, lol. I may do that soon though.. Suggested time for that procedure? I had Artic Silver 5 (AS says it is slight capacative, not using it inside the lid) Ceramique 2 (currently on the block itself) and I have MX-4 inbound, hopefully this week.
Click to expand...

You can delid your CPU anytime. Looking at the pics of your rig, look like you can detach the CPU block (to get access to the CPU) without draining your loop. I have done that before but only for re-applying the TIM.

I have no idea about AS5 being capacitive. Material in AS5 is Polysynthetic Silver. Material in most TIMs are Aluminium Oxide. AS5 already around for sometime now. I've never heard anyone having problem with it except good thing. I know a lot of people freaked out about the curing time but actually it's not like you're going to get huge temp drop once it cured, it only a couple of degrees drop at most. Basically you'll get the performance AS5 offer even before it cured. I'm not familiar of Céramique 2 & not a fan for MX-4; tried it, don't like it at all. My favourite is Shin-Etsu G751.

If you're going to delid your CPU, CLU or CLP (visit delided thread to know which one is recommended) is what most people use. If I understand correctly, *regular* TIM should be ok because the glue used by Intel to hold the IHS is the one that caused bad contact between the die & IHS. I'm not an expert regarding deliding. You should visit delided thread for info.


----------



## Hefner

My first personal build ever:






Pretty good, huh?

I'm not very happy with my EK DDC3.2 PWM. It's making a loud whirring/ticking noise even at lower PWM ranges and is by far the loudest part in my build. I'm not sure whether this is normal for this type of pump or if I have a defect one.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You can delid your CPU anytime. Looking at the pics of your rig, look like you can detach the CPU block (to get access to the CPU) without draining your loop. I have done that before but only for re-applying the TIM.
> 
> I have no idea about AS5 being capacitive. Material in AS5 is Polysynthetic Silver. Material in most TIMs are Aluminium Oxide. AS5 already around for sometime now. I've never heard anyone having problem with it except good thing. I know a lot of people freaked out about the curing time but actually it's not like you're going to get huge temp drop once it cured, it only a couple of degrees drop at most. Basically you'll get the performance AS5 offer even before it cured. I'm not familiar of Céramique 2 & not a fan for MX-4; tried it, don't like it at all. My favourite is Shin-Etsu G751.
> 
> If you're going to delid your CPU, CLU or CLP (visit delided thread to know which one is recommended) is what most people use. If I understand correctly, *regular* TIM should be ok because the glue used by Intel to hold the IHS is the one that caused bad contact between the die & IHS. I'm not an expert regarding deliding. You should visit delided thread for info.


Very valuable info. I think with the second pump, I may have to pull the "in line" to get the block off. I will attempt to avoid doing that, of course. If I have to pull it, that isn't a big deal.. I am heading over to Delidding now.

I read a lot on Artic Silvers site today: Not Electrically Conductive:

Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.
(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)

:didnt know that until i read it


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.melevsreef.com/why_rodi.html
> 
> its just a step beyond.
> 
> if i said distilled, well, im A drunk, B. sleep deprived and drunk, C. above and hungry.


Sounds great in theory, except that you are having some sort of growth issue with your super water.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.melevsreef.com/why_rodi.html
> 
> its just a step beyond.
> 
> if i said distilled, well, im A drunk, B. sleep deprived and drunk, C. above and hungry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds great in theory, except that you are having some sort of growth issue with your super water.
Click to expand...

I have reversed osmosis purification machine that can filter up to 0.0001 micron. Can I use the filtered water for watercooling?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> My 1st ground-up PC and custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3930K @ 4.7GHz
> 16GB Dominator Platinum @ 2133MHz
> GTX 780 Ti w/ XSPC water-block & Heat Killer back-plate
> (2) 256GB Samsung 840 Pro (RAID0)
> (2) 500GB WD Velociraptors (RAID0)
> Mod Kobra red sleeve/heat-shrink
> AX1200
> EK Coolstream PE 120 (1) & 240mm (1) rads
> Corsair SP-120's (3)
> 1/2" Cooper tube
> Primochill Revolver rigid compression fittings (8)
> XSPC dual-bay res w/ D5 vari pump
> Distilled water


That's bloody fantastic! Great job!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.melevsreef.com/why_rodi.html
> 
> its just a step beyond.
> 
> if i said distilled, well, im A drunk, B. sleep deprived and drunk, C. above and hungry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds great in theory, except that you are having some sort of growth issue with your super water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have reversed osmosis purification machine that can filter up to 0.0001 micron. Can I use the filtered water for watercooling?
Click to expand...

You need to remove the salts in the water,just filtering is not enough.


----------



## wermad

Buying all this filtration and distilling equipment can get expensive. Why not just take a hop and a skip to your local pharmacy (or Walmart) and buy a jug of distilled water for cheap









@Beneg, did you decide on the S8 yet?


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's bloody fantastic! Great job!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by dna-systems View Post
> 
> My 1st ground-up PC and custom loop.


+1 I really like the look of that industrial copper against the red + black back drop.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Buying all this filtration and distilling equipment can get expensive. Why not just take a hop and a skip to your local pharmacy (or Walmart) and buy a jug of distilled water for cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Beneg, did you decide on the S8 yet?


honestly... For real...

2$ gallon of distilled water, 15$ bottle of Mayhem's X1. Now you have all your bases covered. Not sure why people feel the need to cheep out when it comes to coolant. You spent 1,000$+ on your WC components, now top it of with a top of the line, world renowned product like Mayhem's X1. It even comes in clear.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Buying all this filtration and distilling equipment can get expensive. Why not just take a hop and a skip to your local pharmacy (or Walmart) and buy a jug of distilled water for cheap


/\This!








I usually just grap mine at Vons/Staters/Albertsons (local grocer) @ $.89 per "gallon"
I'm probably over paying though in comparison to Wally-world prices lol
BTW... Albertsons (if you have one near) sells DICE too !







Quote:


> Not sure why people feel the need to cheep out when it comes to coolant. You spent 1,000$+ on your WC components, now top it of with a top of the line, world renowned product like Mayhem's X1. It even comes in clear.


For the same reason people spend months researching parts and thousands on components then use the cheapest Chinese ebay power supply rated at a "bajillion" watts or use whatever comes with their case...of course


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> /\This!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually just grap mine at Vons/Staters/Albertsons (local grocer) @ $.89 per "gallon"
> I'm probably over paying though in comparison to Wally-world prices lol
> BTW... Albertsons (if you have one near) sells DICE too !


Walmart, 82¢, not by much. Still, makes you wonder if that 7¢ is worth the stupid long a$$ checkout times


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Walmart, 82¢, not by much. Still, makes you wonder if that 7¢ is worth the stupid long a$$ checkout times


LOL True..Although still the only place you can buy Tools, Ammo, Beer, Condoms,Paint, Dinner, and Paracord for all the sleeve work your going to do afterwards.








Sometimes Ill just buy random stuff to see the look on the checkout person's face.

On a side note (back on topic) I just noticed THIS for $25 if anyone's in the market.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Walmart, 82¢, not by much. Still, makes you wonder if that 7¢ is worth the stupid long a$$ checkout times


It's almost never worth going to walmart. I avoid that place at all costs.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> http://www.melevsreef.com/why_rodi.html
> 
> its just a step beyond.
> 
> if i said distilled, well, im A drunk, B. sleep deprived and drunk, C. above and hungry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds great in theory, except that you are having some sort of growth issue with your super water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have reversed osmosis purification machine that can filter up to 0.0001 micron. Can I use the filtered water for watercooling?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to remove the salts in the water,just filtering is not enough.
Click to expand...

It didn't cross my mind salts still in the water. Thanks!









I use this, distilled water. It's cheap.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sounds great in theory, except that you are having some sort of growth issue with your super water.


I theorized, i didnt say it was growth, it could be a reaction to the silver by electromagnetic forces like ice said before, please be mindful and take everything i posted into account, this is a serious issue that i need to address.

For starters the water doesnt smell foul nor metalicy. The build up breaks into crystals (i dont think algae or other growth would do that )

Also, i have a professional setup for my salt water fish tank that needs 20 gal every 2 weeks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It didn't cross my mind salts still in the water. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this, distilled water. It's cheap.


Distilled pretty much eliminates minerals through the distillation process. Drinking water typically contains minerals that are beneficial to your body. But not your pc water cooled loop


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It didn't cross my mind salts still in the water. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this, distilled water. It's cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Distilled pretty much eliminates minerals through the distillation process. Drinking water typically contains minerals that are beneficial to your body. But not your pc water cooled loop
Click to expand...

That is drinking water but it's distilled water, go through distillation process.

_"Spritzer Distilled Drinking Water contains no micro-organisms, minerals or chemicals. It is so pure that it helps bring out the best and natural flavour of beverages and juices. Produced by using a U.S. patented process, Spritzer distilled drinking water meets or exceeds FDA, EPA and other international industry standards."_

This one (green label) is normal drinking water (mineral water).


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I theorized, i didnt say it was growth, it could be a reaction to the silver by electromagnetic forces like ice said before, please be mindful and take everything i posted into account, this is a serious issue that i need to address.
> 
> For starters the water doesnt smell foul nor metalicy. The build up breaks into crystals (i dont think algae or other growth would do that )
> 
> Also, i have a professional setup for my salt water fish tank that needs 20 gal every 2 weeks.


Wasn't making fun... Just chit-chatting








I actually use Distilled in my Tank as well. (For evap. replacement)


----------



## Angrychair

I get triple distilled water from the grocery story for like 89 cents a gallon


----------



## Slomo4shO

Anyone have any recommendations on a flow meter that can be connected to the motherboard directly instead of a tertiary device for flow readout?


----------



## VSG

The Aquaero High Flow USB flow meter: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897

The Koolance flow meter w/display: http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Buying all this filtration and distilling equipment can get expensive. Why not just take a hop and a skip to your local pharmacy (or Walmart) and buy a jug of distilled water for cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Beneg, did you decide on the S8 yet?
> 
> 
> 
> honestly... For real...
> 
> 2$ gallon of distilled water, 15$ bottle of Mayhem's X1. Now you have all your bases covered. Not sure why people feel the need to cheep out when it comes to coolant. You spent 1,000$+ on your WC components, now top it of with a top of the line, world renowned product like Mayhem's X1. It even comes in clear.
Click to expand...

Very simple,all Mick does is filter the water,he doesnt distil it in any way.
2$ a gallon v $15 a liter?

2$ a gallon v $60 a gallon doenst sound so great now does it?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The Koolance flow meter w/display: http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display


isnt a flow meter. you still need to buy the flow meter itself. you would be cheaper off to buy the flow meter then the frequency adapter. you just wouldnt have a pretty little display needing a 5.25 slot.


----------



## VSG

Ah you are right- it is just an adapter, I did not link the flowmeter as well. The Aquaero option makes more sense financially as long as you don't mind using a software to read out flow rates.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I theorized, i didnt say it was growth, it could be a reaction to the silver by electromagnetic forces like ice said before, please be mindful and take everything i posted into account, this is a serious issue that i need to address.
> 
> For starters the water doesnt smell foul nor metalicy. The build up breaks into crystals (i dont think algae or other growth would do that )
> 
> Also, i have a professional setup for my salt water fish tank that needs 20 gal every 2 weeks.


I understand is it for you Salt Water Aquarium... Do you know if that filter is effective on salts? Salts could form scaling like that. We see it on the side of our boats all the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The Aquaero High Flow USB flow meter: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897
> 
> The Koolance flow meter w/display: http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display


I went with the aquabus only version.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Very simple,all Mick does is filter the water,he doesnt distil it in any way.
> 2$ a gallon v $15 a liter?
> 
> 2$ a gallon v $60 a gallon doenst sound so great now does it?


I'm not talking about buying Mick's "super pure water" i'm talking about buying it @ the local grocery store. It is ~1.00-2.00$ a gallon down here.

It definitely is expensive to use the "proper" amount of X1 if your system holds a gallon of water, but not all of us have 4x 480 rads. I'm using it this time around to see if it works out better than Liquid Utopia.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The Koolance flow meter w/display: http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display
> 
> 
> 
> isnt a flow meter. you still need to buy the flow meter itself. you would be cheaper off to buy the flow meter then the frequency adapter. you just wouldnt have a pretty little display needing a 5.25 slot.
Click to expand...

I think he meant to link this one:

http://koolance.com/ins-fm18d-coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel-with-display

D.


----------



## VSG

^ That's the one!


----------



## Slomo4shO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ That's the one!


I am trying to avoid a sensor display if possible since I really don't have any place to put it


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slomo4shO*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ That's the one!
> 
> 
> 
> I am trying to avoid a sensor display if possible since I really don't have any place to put it
Click to expand...

The display is attached to the flow meter adapter. So you don't need to worry where you need to put it because it will be wherever you connect the flow meter.


----------



## waveaddict

Hey guy's,trying to decide on which pump....
EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Plexi or
MCP35X.
Will be in a CPU/GPU loop with a 360mm rad with tube res.With decoupling these from the case,which would be more reliable?
Cost really isn't an issue.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think he meant to link this one:
> 
> http://koolance.com/ins-fm18d-coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel-with-display
> 
> D.


thats nice. its probably worth the $15 premium over a meter plus adapter. that is, if you can see inside your case.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Hey guy's,trying to decide on which pump....
> EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Plexi or
> MCP35X.
> Will be in a CPU/GPU loop with a 360mm rad with tube res.With decoupling these from the case,which would be more reliable?
> Cost really isn't an issue.


Pretty sure it's the same pump, the EK comes with their aftermarket top preinstalled. So if you had planned on buying a top anyway, then get the EK. If you want just the pump go with the Swiftech.


----------



## VSG

The MCP35x has a really good top already so performance wise if the EK version costs more, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Aesthetics are a different matter though!


----------



## Slomo4shO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The display is attached to the flow meter adapter. So you don't need to worry where you need to put it because it will be wherever you connect the flow meter.


I am aware, but I would still like to be able to access the reading without opening up the case... Something that connects to the Asus OC Panel would be ideal but since nothing compatible exists, I will need to settle for a software based monitor.


----------



## stickg1

I wanted a MCP35X in white but this 355 works so much better now being controlled with the PA2. I'm really curious as to how the flow rate changes as I move the voltage around. I think I'm just going to throw down the extra $30 for the USB version of the AQ Flow Meter. Do I have to have the Flow Meter AND the PA2 connected to my motherboard via USB or can I just connect the PA2 and run the USB Flow Meter via Aqua Bus cable?


----------



## pc-illiterate

if its the pa2 ultra, you can hook up a flow sensor.
from the manual:
5.6. Flow sensor
Flow sensor and special interconnecting cable are not included in delivery.
Pin assignment: Pin 1: GND
Pin 2: +5 V
Pin 3: Signal
Compatible flow sensors:
● Flow sensor with 5.6 mm nozzle (art. 53061)
● Flow sensor "high flow" (art. 53068)
● Connection cable for flow sensor (art. 53027

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html?tl=c229s582b200

plus

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14276/bus-287/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_Flow_Sensor_Connection_Cable_53027.html?tl=c229s582b200


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Pretty sure it's the same pump, the EK comes with their aftermarket top preinstalled. So if you had planned on buying a top anyway, then get the EK. If you want just the pump go with the Swiftech.


Yeah,just a good reliable pump as well as both being low profile is a plus as well as PWM controlled.The EK does have a pretty fat head pressure compared to the MCP35x,but I could tone that down with the PWM.I'm swaying toward the 35x in white myself.


----------



## RickRockerr

I just got 6 apache PWM fans. Must say that imo these get pretty loud on high rpm. Could I just hook these on cpu fan header?
And I did little cutting while changing my fan's








Rad was cowered with cardboard while cutting.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I just got 6 apache PWM fans. Must say that imo these get pretty loud on high rpm. Could I just hook these on cpu fan header?
> And I did little cutting while changing my fan's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rad was cowered with cardboard while cutting.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


One of these will work for you ...

http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter-sata.aspx


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> One of these will work for you ...
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter-sata.aspx


Thanks for the link but I think they don't ship to Finland.
I was thinking about connecting 3 fans to cpu header and 3 to cpu_opt but it turns out that cpu_opt runs always at 100%


----------



## Trolle BE

anyone got anymore news about that EK fancontroller?
and any got any experience with http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-bay-res-d5-vario-incl-pump.html ?
i kinda wanna replace my current res/pump combo(http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-dcp-series-pumps/ek-bay-dcp-2-2-combo-unit-incl-pump.html is my current)


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slomo4shO*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The display is attached to the flow meter adapter. So you don't need to worry where you need to put it because it will be wherever you connect the flow meter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am aware, but I would still like to be able to access the reading without opening up the case... Something that connects to the Asus OC Panel would be ideal but since nothing compatible exists, I will need to settle for a software based monitor.
Click to expand...

In the product description:-
_"DCM-FM01 has a separate output, if used, which multiplies the flow meter signal for readability by most fan tachometer headers. This output is intended to allow fan detection software or BIOS to enable the appropriate alarm or shutdown procedure if the flow meter impeller stops rotating. The "RPMs" represent approximate coolant flow rate in mL/min and not the flow meter's revolutions."_

So yeah, you can read the flow rate using a software.

Sorry, got that from different product page.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Thanks for the link but I think they don't ship to Finland.
> I was thinking about connecting 3 fans to cpu header and 3 to cpu_opt but it turns out that cpu_opt runs always at 100%


Swiftech is the manufacturer. I linked to their site to point you to their product, not as a suggestion for a place where to get it. Their products are sold by all the usual computer / watercooling outlets worldwide. You should be able to find it near you anywhere you are, for example ...

http://www.aquatuning.fi/product_info.php/info/p16390_Swiftech-8-Way-PWM-Splitter.html

Perhaps there are other PWM splitters that can handle 6 fans or more besides the Swiftech, but I'm not aware of any. I've seen an Akasa one that's for 5 fans. Maybe they make one for more? I dunno. Maybe one of the modmytoys pcbs will work? You definitely want to use a splitter, like the Swiftech one, that only has the PWM signal and rpm sensing wires from the mobo, and gets the 12v and ground from your PSU, so you don't overload the CPU_FAN header.


----------



## Squashie

Havent updated my rig in a while so i decided utilize my 3D printer. Designed some cable-covers for the 24-pin and the SLI VGA-cables.

Sketchup design:


24 PIN


SLI VGA

They are printed out on a dual extruder printer in PLA plastic, the green matched my Mayhems pretty good, happy!





The finish is a bit to shiny compared to the rest of my build so i need to do some sanding to get it perfect.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Havent updated my rig in a while so i decided utilize my 3D printer. Designed some cable-covers for the 24-pin and the SLI VGA-cables.
> 
> Sketchup design:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 PIN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SLI VGA
> 
> They are printed out on a dual extruder printer in PLA plastic, the green matched my Mayhems pretty good, happy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finish is a bit to shiny compared to the rest of my build so i need to do some sanding to get it perfect.


Looks good! I like!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> anyone got anymore news about that EK fancontroller?
> and any got any experience with http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-bay-res-d5-vario-incl-pump.html ?
> i kinda wanna replace my current res/pump combo(http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-dcp-series-pumps/ek-bay-dcp-2-2-combo-unit-incl-pump.html is my current)


Last I heard about the EK controller was "Soon ™" which normally means months and months away.









honestly though, I would avoid the first iteration, the software will probably be pretty bad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got the res faceplate in,need to shunt it over a bit tho.



Tapping the res and welding it this week!

Should I do a video while I do it? Might be a nice new 101........as long as I dont balls it up.


----------



## skupples

Very nice! That paint goes on so seamless!


----------



## kpoeticg

I vote for a video =)


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got the res faceplate in,need to shunt it over a bit tho.
> 
> 
> 
> Tapping the res and welding it this week!
> 
> Should I do a video while I do it? Might be a nice new 101........as long as I dont balls it up.


Go for it. I was thinking of making a cutom res until I remember I didn't have clue where to start. even if you mess up, a do's and don'ts vid would help too







lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Agreed, custom reservoirs always interest me. Probly the same reason for me and Welshy with our limited space


----------



## pandrade11

Second build ever, still in the works.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Noob question.. Where do i post up a build log.. or where do i go to start a build log?


----------



## Squashie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Noob question.. Where do i post up a build log.. or where do i go to start a build log?


If its intel, mabye:
*Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel - General › Intel Build Logs*


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandrade11*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second build ever, still in the works.


Looks great!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Noob question.. Where do i post up a build log.. or where do i go to start a build log?


It depends on the build. Either Intel Build Logs, AMD Builld Logs, Cooling/Watercooling, or Casemods


----------



## dna-systems

That's bloody fantastic! Great job!







[/quote]

Thank you very much...


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice copper work there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!!


Thank you very much.


----------



## MiiX

Aquacomputer poweradjust 2 USB - Ultra vs Standard
Whats really the difference? I "need" one, but I don't see why I should buy the Ultra cause I don't know what "extras" it has


----------



## Lionheart1980

Here a build log i did and posted today..








http://www.overclock.net/t/1474715/build-log-genesis-tron-my-1st-build-log/0_20


----------



## Gunderman456

Work has already begun on The Hawaiian Heat Wave Version 2.0! (see built log in sig)


----------



## jpetrach

Need some help guys I was running water lines and when I went to turn on for a test. Nothing. After a lot of basic trouble shooting this is what I have found. 


Is this something that would prevent start. All I get is a click sound from the power supply. I have tried bread boarding. And I shorted out the power supply to make sure it worked.

The motherboard is a Asus Maximus VI gene.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Need some help guys I was running water lines and when I went to turn on for a test. Nothing. After a lot of basic trouble shooting this is what I have found.
> 
> 
> Is this something that would prevent start. All I get is a click sound from the power supply. I have tried bread boarding. And I shorted out the power supply to make sure it worked.
> 
> The motherboard is a Asus Maximus VI gene.
> 
> PLEASE SOMEONE HELP


That definitely looks like something that could prevent start... I believe those are Mosfets.


----------



## jpetrach

So sounds like I'm calling Asus tomorrow....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> So sounds like I'm calling Asus tomorrow....


most likely. I know it costs ~100$ to get bent pins fixed on a high end board, so getting that fixed will probably run around the same, or slightly less.


----------



## jpetrach

I can solder so I just have to find out what I need and fix it my self :{ maybe.


----------



## kpoeticg

What you need is printed right on the Fet









Looks like it got melted somehow. You should be able to find the part by what's printed on the unmelted one.

It looks like some sort of Fet in a TO-220 DPak Heatsink


----------



## IT Diva

I couldn't find anything googling all the permutations and partials of the numbers.

May be some proprietary markings for Asus.

To blow out that bad, I'd look for a misplugged cable or major underboard short to the chassis.

That had to go with a POP.

Was it a "known good" PSU, and did you try it first on the box before you put it in the case . . . .

Darlene


----------



## jpetrach

I didn't hear anything. The only thing that I can think of is the Maximus vi gene has a wifi/ Bluetooth module the bolts in right there and I must have been careless when uninstalling it. I have no idea how it happen


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I can solder so I just have to find out what I need and fix it my self :{ maybe.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What you need is printed right on the Fet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like it got melted somehow. You should be able to find the part by what's printed on the unmelted one.
> 
> It looks like some sort of Fet in a TO-220 DPak Heatsink


If you can find the same part number you should be able to replace it yourself without any problems. I've replaced blown caps on an old board before and it worked fine.

I'm with Darlene though, doing some quick google searching I couldn't find anything.


----------



## skupples

IDK, it looks like it may have just cracked from impact.

I tried googling it as well, can't find that exact model.

Did you buy the board used? Is this the first time you have used it?


----------



## kpoeticg

I found a few people asking similar questions about asus boards by googling "f90 p02 fet" and "f90 p02 transistor"

Chances are the rest is just batch number and such. Dunno what logo that big M is on it though. Would probly be helpful.


----------



## morencyam

I also checked the website we use at work to buy a lot of our small circuit board components and had no luck. My guess is the big "M" is the manufacturer logo. And it does look like it broke from impact. If it was blown from over heating or faulty connection there would some kind of other sign like charring


----------



## jpetrach

I got it new on Amazon I've just been trying out different liquid configurations. I've had it around 4 months.


----------



## ledzepp3

Power supply just won't power on the rig, so I guess this is what I have to offer to the thread while I RMA my Strider ST-1000G







so here's my rig. I haven't really seen a lot of people mix small amounts of bending with straight fitting-based runs so it feels unique to me. Any suggestions or comments are always welcome













Might as well ask for some guidance while I'm here







So from my bottom 290X to the 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator is the longest run in the entire case. For anyone who's worked with acrylic, you know that long runs tend to flex and be weaker compared to short acrylic tubes. Now I'm *not* drilling any more holes in my case because to tear it apart at this point is futile and a waste of time, but how would you guys advise I make a stronger run? It consists of this: a 90 degree adapter with a C47 fitting coming from the block, with a shortish run to a 45 degree dual acrylic C47 type adapter to a roughly 45CM long pipe into another 45 degree adapter where the tubing run ends. I can take pictures if needed guys









I can bend it or use the few fittings I have left to do whatever modifications needed to make it a stronger run!

-Zepp


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I didn't hear anything. The only thing that I can think of is the Maximus vi gene has a wifi/ Bluetooth module the bolts in right there and I must have been careless when uninstalling it. I have no idea how it happen


Saw you got it new from Amazon, has it been working up until now?

The hole to the left of the mpcie connector looks discolored, did you screw into a wire?

D.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I also checked the website we use at work to buy a lot of our small circuit board components and had no luck. My guess is the big "M" is the manufacturer logo. And it does look like it broke from impact. If it was blown from over heating or faulty connection there would some kind of other sign like charring


Macom maybe?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Havent updated my rig in a while so i decided utilize my 3D printer. Designed some cable-covers for the 24-pin and the SLI VGA-cables.
> 
> Sketchup design:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 PIN
> 
> 
> SLI VGA
> 
> They are printed out on a dual extruder printer in PLA plastic, the green matched my Mayhems pretty good, happy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finish is a bit to shiny compared to the rest of my build so i need to do some sanding to get it perfect.


Ha! I was just routing cables on my re-build and was thinking how sweet it would be if they had flat braid style cables or sleeving. This is pretty awesome!


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Saw you got it new from Amazon, has it been working up until now?
> 
> The hole to the left of the mpcie connector looks discolored, did you screw into a wire?
> 
> D.


That's a good question! I don't believe so but it looks like it so hopefully asus will have an answer or replacement for me. :/


----------



## skupples

gah, just noticed something in my reservoir. It looks like spider web. How the hell is that even possible.







I used a whole bottle of Liquid Utopia in the gallon of what my system holds.


----------



## Im Batman

Found a reasonably priced second hand 290x, connecting a koolance 290x block to a 290 xspc block in series shouldn't give me too much trouble?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> Found a reasonably priced second hand 290x, connecting a koolance 290x block to a 290 xspc block in series shouldn't give me too much trouble?


Worst case scenario is you have to use flexible tube to link them.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> gah, just noticed something in my reservoir. It looks like spider web. How the hell is that even possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a whole bottle of Liquid Utopia in the gallon of what my system holds.


Clearly you're just a spider bite away from becoming the next Peter Parker.


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Worst case scenario is you have to use flexible tube to link them.


Awesome thanks.


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Clearly you're just a spider bite away from becoming the next Peter Parker.


this lol.

What coloring did you use? maybe foam drying out or something?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> this lol.
> 
> What coloring did you use? maybe foam drying out or something?


I didn't use any dye, I used Liquid Utopia this time around. The stuff is white. I thought it was a dust bunny @ first, but it looks like the beginnings of algae. Very much like what you see in a fish tank before all hell breaks loose. It's like 4 or 5 strings joined together in a knot. Kinda like watching a spider web blowing in the wind. Damn, think i'm just going to watch it. I only have 2x bottles of X1 right now, and i'm not going to waste them in a loop that is about to get torn down in a week. Maybe i'll fast ship some more utopia.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I didn't use any dye, I used Liquid Utopia this time around. The stuff is white. I thought it was a dust bunny @ first, but it looks like the beginnings of algae. Very much like what you see in a fish tank before all hell breaks loose. It's like 4 or 5 strings joined together in a knot. Kinda like watching a spider web blowing in the wind. Damn, think i'm just going to watch it. I only have 2x bottles of X1 right now, and i'm not going to waste them in a loop that is about to get torn down in a week. Maybe i'll fast ship some more utopia.


Or maybe go grab some plain cheap Distilled and run/flush the system a few times to see if it goes away. I mean that's what I would try before purchasing $30-$40 on specialized coolant that may, or may not, do it again.
I know what you mean about that "fish tank" scenario ...been there before quite a few times before installing a skimmer set-up.








Just hope it's not that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I can solder so I just have to find out what I need and fix it my self :{ maybe.


You will struggle to mount SMT's without a rework station. Just a soldering iron is not enough.

Also,I doubt that is a mosfet,based on position,no choke or cap and nothing local to it for it to supply.
RMA and pay the man if you have too.


----------



## carmal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It didn't cross my mind salts still in the water. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this, distilled water. It's cheap.


are those mineral water???


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It didn't cross my mind salts still in the water. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this, distilled water. It's cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are those mineral water???
Click to expand...

No, that is not mineral water. That is distilled water.


----------



## carmal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> No, that is not mineral water. That is distilled water.


oraiitt thanks....in malaysia those are in blue label are drinking water...and the green label are mineral water...so can i used drinking water for my loop??


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> No, that is not mineral water. That is distilled water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oraiitt thanks....in malaysia those are in blue label are drinking water...and the green label are mineral water...so can i used drinking water for my loop??
Click to expand...

Both are drinking water actually. Blue label is distilled drinking water & green label is mineral water. If it go through distillation process, then it's distilled water & you can use it in your loop.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Question about Liquid pro... I just ordered some, and will be delidding when it gets here.. I am going over to the delidding forum as well, as topping it with the Liquid Pro thread, but I am curious with the Nickel Plated EK block, if I should put the Liquid Pro on the outside between the IHS and waterblock as well? I am seeing in very few places that it supposedly works wonderful with Nickel Plated Copper... Just want to see if anyone has direct input here as well.


----------



## egotrippin

*Look at the sadness of the MO-RA3 420 PRO with black feet and a grill... sitting unopened.... with nobody to love

I bought this for a project that I decided not to complete....if anybody has a use for it PM me cuz I'm tired of it sitting around*


----------



## carmal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Both are drinking water actually. Blue label is distilled drinking water & green label is mineral water. If it go through distillation process, then it's distilled water & you can use it in your loop.


thanks broo..


----------



## mrinfinit3

Looking at the image below; Blue = current configuration / Purple= former configuration.

Could someone explain to me as to why Pump #3 would have issues with "air noise" and the coolant coming from the bottom GPU would be having issues with "stuck air" only for the 1st 2"-3" yet be completely "filled" thereafter?

The plumbing in "blue" is what I just changed over to and am running now. Though I still have a bit of air stuck rite after the last GPU, it is not nearly as bad as the "3" pump configuration. Although I truly love my drain now, I would like to make use of the other 2 rads and that 3rd pump "prior" to installing my rigid tubing. I do have a slight (4*-5*C)increase in overall temps after removing the 3rd pump from the loop. So I miss it lol

**EDIT**
I no longer have the 350ml acrylic "tube" res installed. I made it myself so no loss there...but it did seem to expel air quicker than this bay res does.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will struggle to mount SMT's without a rework station. Just a soldering iron is not enough.
> 
> Also,I doubt that is a mosfet,based on position,no choke or cap and nothing local to it for it to supply.
> RMA and pay the man if you have too.


Yup after obsessing over being broken all night, and googling my ass off that looks like it's my only option. Calling Asus hoping for a good/nice rep today when they open. Looks like I'll just be spectating for a little while.


----------



## Buehlar

Been wanting to try a bench build so I'm gearing up for some fun!

Just ordered the *Dimastech EasyXL Bench/Test Table* from PPCS

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_1267&products_id=39113



New log coming soon


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Question about Liquid pro... I just ordered some, and will be delidding when it gets here.. I am going over to the delidding forum as well, as topping it with the Liquid Pro thread, but I am curious with the Nickel Plated EK block, if I should put the Liquid Pro on the outside between the IHS and waterblock as well? I am seeing in very few places that it supposedly works wonderful with Nickel Plated Copper... Just want to see if anyone has direct input here as well.


I probably would have gotten the Liquid Ultra if you plan on using it between the IHS and block. The PRO is slightly more difficult to remove and stains more. I wouldn't even bother using it on the IHS, just use it between the die and IHS. That way you wont have any issues with it damaging the other metals.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I probably would have gotten the Liquid Ultra if you plan on using it between the IHS and block. The PRO is slightly more difficult to remove and stains more. I wouldn't even bother using it on the IHS, just use it between the die and IHS. That way you wont have any issues with it damaging the other metals.


Thank you. I didn't realize the difference and quite frankly won't be buying any more TIM after this comes in, as I have too much now. I will be using the Pro between the Die and IHS, but not on the IHS and Block. A member in another thread stated that it would be too hard to remove later on, which makes perfect sense.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Thank you. I didn't realize the difference and quite frankly won't be buying any more TIM after this comes in, as I have too much now. I will be using the Pro between the Die and IHS, but not on the IHS and Block. A member in another thread stated that it would be too hard to remove later on, which makes perfect sense.


I have the Ultra and Pro, or have used them both anyway. I've delidded several times but on my latest I realized I was out of Ultra so I just used some PRO I have left over. It works just as well on the die IMO, it just requires and abrasive scrubbing to remove from the IHS and I'd imagine from any blocks it was put on as well. Meaning you will have to spend some quality time repolishing to a mirror finish.


----------



## acanom

I have a question regarding the Nexxxos UT60 420mm

Maybe someone can help me

There is a single bleedscrew on one end of the radiator.

Does it have direct contact to the water?
I´m asking because I´m planning on putting a temp sensor there and it would be bad if it doesn´t touches the water









Thank you in advance!

Regards


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> I have a question regarding the Nexxxos UT60 420mm
> 
> Maybe someone can help me
> 
> There is a single bleedscrew on one end of the radiator.
> 
> Does it have direct contact to the water?
> I´m asking because I´m planning on putting a temp sensor there and it would be bad if it doesn´t touches the water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance!
> 
> Regards


Well in any water loop if you bleed all the air out, everything that gives you access to the water will be touching it. My question would be whether or not the water flows past it or if it's just a small amount of stagnant water that kinda sits in that area. If it's not cycling through you wouldn't get an accurate reading of what the entire loop is running in temperature.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Question about Liquid pro... I just ordered some, and will be delidding when it gets here.. I am going over to the delidding forum as well, as topping it with the Liquid Pro thread, but I am curious with the Nickel Plated EK block, if I should put the Liquid Pro on the outside between the IHS and waterblock as well? I am seeing in very few places that it supposedly works wonderful with Nickel Plated Copper... Just want to see if anyone has direct input here as well.


It works really well between nickel & IHS, but I would go with liquid ultra. Same temps, easier to work with, easier to clean.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It works really well between nickel & IHS, but I would go with liquid ultra. Same temps, easier to work with, easier to clean.


I wish they had these in a two pack. I already placed the order for the Pro. I am done ordering TIMs for this build, lol. I think one of the 5 I have will suffice under the block, to say the least.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> Well in any water loop if you bleed all the air out, everything that gives you access to the water will be touching it. My question would be whether or not the water flows past it or if it's just a small amount of stagnant water that kinda sits in that area. If it's not cycling through you wouldn't get an accurate reading of what the entire loop is running in temperature.


That would habe been my question exactly. Just didn't know how to put it in words


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> That would habe been my question exactly. Just didn't know how to put it in words


That's where my temp sensor is. After all the air is out of the loop the radiators should be 100% full of coolant so it will work. Mine works well, although mine is on the front rad that is mounted vertically so the bleed port is on the bottom. Not sure if that makes a difference but its where I drain and get my water temp from.



It's a rotary T fitting with a male QDC on one end and a temp sensor on the other.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's where my temp sensor is. After all the air is out of the loop the radiators should be 100% full of coolant so it will work. Mine works well, although mine is on the front rad that is mounted vertically so the bleed port is on the bottom. Not sure if that makes a difference but its where I drain and get my water temp from.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a rotary T fitting with a male QDC on one end and a temp sensor on the other.


Thank you! Nice solution btw


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Well, i am in contact with EKWB about the performance issue. EK seems to think I didn't apply enough thermal paste is all..... I removed the Ceramique and re-applied AS5... Not even 1 degree of difference... :-(







I think I may play the lottery and send this silly chip back to Intel under an RMA, rather than deal with the extra B.S. Thoughts? I am not sure I want to Delid just yet. At least I figured out that I can actually remove the block without breaking the loop down.. THAT makes me happy.

P.S. I did try to start the computer before re-installing the ram... WHOOPS.. That was the first time I forgot something.


----------



## skupples

What were the temps and clocks? Its possible you have a really bad glue job on the IHS.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> I have a question regarding the Nexxxos UT60 420mm
> 
> Maybe someone can help me
> 
> There is a single bleedscrew on one end of the radiator.
> 
> Does it have direct contact to the water?
> I´m asking because I´m planning on putting a temp sensor there and it would be bad if it doesn´t touches the water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance!
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> 
> Well in any water loop if you bleed all the air out, everything that gives you access to the water will be touching it. My question would be whether or not the water flows past it or if it's just a small amount of stagnant water that kinda sits in that area. If it's not cycling through you wouldn't get an accurate reading of what the entire loop is running in temperature.
Click to expand...

Its the end tank,it won't be stagnated water in the slightest.


----------



## Doc3379

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Well, i am in contact with EKWB about the performance issue. EK seems to think I didn't apply enough thermal paste is all..... I removed the Ceramique and re-applied AS5... Not even 1 degree of difference... :-(
> 
> I think I may play the lottery and send this silly chip back to Intel under an RMA, rather than deal with the extra B.S. Thoughts? I am not sure I want to Delid just yet. At least I figured out that I can actually remove the block without breaking the loop down.. THAT makes me happy.
> 
> P.S. I did try to start the computer before re-installing the ram... WHOOPS.. That was the first time I forgot something.


I know you don't need a whole lot of thermal paste on your CPU, but that doesn't look like enough to me.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> I know you don't need a whole lot of thermal paste on your CPU, but that doesn't look like enough to me.


It was enough, even though I didn't put much more than the size of a grain of rice, that it squeezed out of the side while installing the block. It is also white, and I don't think the initial paste was any good. The problem is, I reinstalled AS5 with the grain method again and it still hits 80...


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> It was enough, even though I didn't put much more than the size of a grain of rice, that it squeezed out of the side while installing the block. It is also white, and I don't think the initial paste was any good. The problem is, I reinstalled AS5 with the grain method again and it still hits 80...


Chip model, clocks, and voltage?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Chip model, clocks, and voltage?


It's all in the build Big Brother in my Sig, but 4770k at 4.5ghz and 1.315 volts.

*edit* the volts aren't showing in the build, so I lied.


----------



## iamkraine

I took apart my loop to change a few things. I was able to fill it fine, but after about 30mins of leak testing the pump (mcp35x) shut off and now wont turn on. There might be an air bubble stuck somewhere within the pump but no matter how much I shake the case it still does not want to turn on. Any thoughts? Ideas?


----------



## stickg1

A little high but it sounds like just a bad die IHS mount from Intel. They can get that hot pretty quick at 1.3v+


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the end tank,it won't be stagnated water in the slightest.


So it will be touched by the flowing water of the loop?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> So it will be touched by the flowing water of the loop?


Correct, the water will be flowing in that area just as in any other part of the loop.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Swiftech is the manufacturer. I linked to their site to point you to their product, not as a suggestion for a place where to get it. Their products are sold by all the usual computer / watercooling outlets worldwide. You should be able to find it near you anywhere you are, for example ...
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.fi/product_info.php/info/p16390_Swiftech-8-Way-PWM-Splitter.html
> 
> Perhaps there are other PWM splitters that can handle 6 fans or more besides the Swiftech, but I'm not aware of any. I've seen an Akasa one that's for 5 fans. Maybe they make one for more? I dunno. Maybe one of the modmytoys pcbs will work? You definitely want to use a splitter, like the Swiftech one, that only has the PWM signal and rpm sensing wires from the mobo, and gets the 12v and ground from your PSU, so you don't overload the CPU_FAN header.


I looked from aquatuning and somehow missed that







They dont have that splitter on stock atm so I have to think something temporary out. I asked asus about sabertooth z77 cpu fan header and hiw many amps it can hadle, they said that cpu fan header can take more beating than chassis fan header (surprice) but they said that if I push cpu fan header close to 1 amp it will eventually break which is pretty unbelievable.


----------



## jpetrach

I would like to thank everyone who helped me through my time in need. Asus is allowing me to RMA I opted for rush return to get back in the game faster.

I know this is a water cooling thread but I would like to take the opportunity to remember the beloved parts we have all lost. in the pursuit of perfection.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Need some help guys I was running water lines and when I went to turn on for a test. Nothing. After a lot of basic trouble shooting this is what I have found.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I took apart my loop to change a few things. I was able to fill it fine, but after about 30mins of leak testing the pump (mcp35x) shut off and now wont turn on. There might be an air bubble stuck somewhere within the pump but no matter how much I shake the case it still does not want to turn on. Any thoughts? Ideas?


It can be a loose wire inside the pump. I was struggling with similar issue with my brothers pump, it didnt allway turn on so i opened the pump and there was one wire loose.
I resoldered it and also the other one, because it was poorly soldered like the other one.


----------



## VSG

EK has released their block for the Asus 290/290x DCUII as well as a a reinforcer for Nvidia 780/ 780Ti based water blocks.

EK-FC R9 290X DCII:







Reinforcer (Fits EK-FC770 GTX, EK-FC780 GTX Ti, EK-FC Titan and EK-FC Titan SE water blocks):


----------



## skupples

For anti warping?


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> For anti warping?


question: what all has to be cooled, I saw these on amazon, also I don't have the money you guys are spending. so could I use this of is it going to kill my GPU.
http://www.amazon.com/VvW-Aluminum-Cooling-Blocks-Heatsink/dp/B00DHC2GJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395074430&sr=8-1&keywords=water+cooling+blocks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> For anti warping?


Pretty much. It is advertised for a single card, they figure their terminals do a similar trick with multiple cards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> question: what all has to be cooled, I saw these on amazon, also I don't have the money you guys are spending. so could I use this of is it going to kill my GPU.
> http://www.amazon.com/VvW-Aluminum-Cooling-Blocks-Heatsink/dp/B00DHC2GJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395074430&sr=8-1&keywords=water+cooling+blocks


I personally would not use that, man. Get a reliable universal waterblock from a company that has some established history and actual warranty support instead.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pretty much. It is advertised for a single card, they figure their terminals do a similar trick with multiple cards.
> I personally would not use that, man. Get a reliable universal waterblock from a company that has some established history and actual warranty support instead.


ok so I can use a just water block. it doesn't have to contact the memory or mosfits just the chip?

like this?


----------



## VSG

Ya, that will cool your core. For the memory and VRMs, you will need aftermarket heatsinks if you card does not come with a heatsink like the Classifieds/Lightnings come with as well as active fan cooling to dissipate the heat off those heatsinks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I took apart my loop to change a few things. I was able to fill it fine, but after about 30mins of leak testing the pump (mcp35x) shut off and now wont turn on. There might be an air bubble stuck somewhere within the pump but no matter how much I shake the case it still does not want to turn on. Any thoughts? Ideas?


I'm sorry to hear about this. Have you tried plugging the Molex into another connector on your PSU? Please PM me if this doesn't resolve your issue.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, that will cool your core. For the memory and VRMs, you will need aftermarket heatsinks if you card does not come with a heatsink like the Classifieds/Lightnings come with as well as active fan cooling to dissipate the heat off those heatsinks.


I have 2 cards a Gigabyte 7850 and xfx r9 270x and after you remove the stock cooling solution there is nothing in contact with the memory modules.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I have 2 cards a Gigabyte 7850 and xfx r9 270x and after you remove the stock cooling solution there is nothing in contact with the memory modules.


Then you'll need to use some aftermarket heatsinks to cool your ram chips and VRMs/MOSFETs.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I have 2 cards a Gigabyte 7850 and xfx r9 270x and after you remove the stock cooling solution there is nothing in contact with the memory modules.


How many slots do you have in between? What case do you have? With 2 cards, and if you use heatsinks to cool the VRMs and memory, it may be hard to get good airflow to both cards. This is assuming these cards run warm, I have no idea really. Maybe you can ask someone in the 7850 owner's club?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I would like to thank everyone who helped me through my time in need. Asus is allowing me to RMA I opted for rush return to get back in the game faster.
> 
> I know this is a water cooling thread but I would like to take the opportunity to remember the beloved parts we have all lost. in the pursuit of perfection.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Need some help guys I was running water lines and when I went to turn on for a test. Nothing. After a lot of basic trouble shooting this is what I have found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see you have had a good result. I nearly went to hell and back with the bent pins on my LGA2011 socket but managed to repair them and with some help from the guys on the MSI Big Bang Xpower II thread, my baby is back in the land of the living.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am utterly useless with a soldering iron and if I had the problem you had I certainly wouldn't have tried to repair it myself even if it was theoretically possible.
Click to expand...


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How many slots do you have in between? What case do you have? With 2 cards, and if you use heatsinks to cool the VRMs and memory, it may be hard to get good airflow to both cards. This is assuming these cards run warm, I have no idea really. Maybe you can ask someone in the 7850 owner's club?


I have a small Roswell case. and the Maximus VI gene only has 2 PCIE slots and yes there is not much room for air flow. that's what I'm wondering what's a better option full card cooler or chip cooler and heat sinks. right now there's no room for the cards stock cooler to draw air between cards.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I have a small Roswell case. and the Maximus VI gene only has 2 PCIE slots and yes there is not much room for air flow. that's what I'm wondering what's a better option full card cooler or chip cooler and heat sinks. right now there's no room for the cards stock cooler to draw air between cards.


OK, the problem is going to be that although your Gigabyte card is a reference card and you'll be able to find a full-cover water block for it, your XFX card isn't. This is going to make it very difficult to water cool the two of them since you'll have to use a universal water block and individual heatsinks for the other components on the card. Air flow is also going to be an issue because of that case and the fact that you'll still need good air flow for the XFX card.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, the problem is going to be that although your Gigabyte card is a reference card and you'll be able to find a full-cover water block for it, your XFX card isn't. This is going to make it very difficult to water cool the two of them since you'll have to use a universal water block and individual heatsinks for the other components on the card. Air flow is also going to be an issue because of that case and the fact that you'll still need good air flow for the XFX card.


ok so if you had to pick a replacement card at the 260$ I paid for the r9 270x


----------



## VSG

Any reference R9 270x that has the same PCB as your reference Gigabyte 7850 will work and you can then use a full block on both. Talk to Bryan (BramSLI1) and also DerickWM from EK here to be sure which card will work.


----------



## jpetrach

ive looked at a lot of cards is there something to look for to make sure it's a reference board.


----------



## VSG

EK's cooling configurator gives a good starting point but be aware that sometimes manufacturers will change PCB designs and then that ruins compatibility with water blocks. Gigabyte in particular has been doing this a lot recently with their cards.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> EK's cooling configurator gives a good starting point but be aware that sometimes manufacturers will change PCB designs and then that ruins compatibility with water blocks. Gigabyte in particular has been doing this a lot recently with their cards.


And XFX is notorious for it also!!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Well, i am in contact with EKWB about the performance issue. EK seems to think I didn't apply enough thermal paste is all..... I removed the Ceramique and re-applied AS5... Not even 1 degree of difference... :-(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I may play the lottery and send this silly chip back to Intel under an RMA, rather than deal with the extra B.S. Thoughts? I am not sure I want to Delid just yet. At least I figured out that I can actually remove the block without breaking the loop down.. THAT makes me happy.
> 
> P.S. I did try to start the computer before re-installing the ram... WHOOPS.. That was the first time I forgot something.


AS5 is soooo 2010.

Also Haswell runs incredibly hot, thanks to Intel. 80 degrees at 1.3X volts is not too unsurprising to me.


----------



## VSG

Speaking of the devil









Hey Derick, help out jpetrach with what he needs to buy will ya?

Haswell is a hit and miss with the IHS, I have not delidded mine but even so it barely goes above 75 C on XTU (which is essentially Prime95) validation at 1.375V Vcore.


----------



## jpetrach

EK's cooling configurator. I'll have to split screen it one on EK's cooling configurator and amazon to find the right card.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> EK's cooling configurator gives a good starting point but be aware that sometimes manufacturers will change PCB designs and then that ruins compatibility with water blocks. Gigabyte in particular has been doing this a lot recently with their cards.
> 
> 
> 
> And XFX is notorious for it also!!
Click to expand...

This,XFX are total ba$7ards for changing PCB stuff and rendering blocks useless...while still claiming its ref.
If there are a lot of X's in the SKU then there is a solid chance it wont fit,even if it has a ref cooler.


----------



## derickwm

If you're looking for cheap blocks at the very least go with a universal block such as our own EK-VGA Supremacy. Coolingconfigurator.com will help you find any blocks that will be compatible with both of your cards. Definitely do not buy that $9 block on Amazon you linked earlier. It'll provide you only with headaches.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This,XFX are total ba$7ards for changing PCB stuff and rendering blocks useless...while still claiming its ref.
> If there are a lot of X's in the SKU then there is a solid chance it wont fit,even if it has a ref cooler.


Sounds familiar to me. I just chose to ditch my XFX card and get a different brand (with probably superior memory anyways), no way I was giving up that sexy EK block


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you're looking for cheap blocks at the very least go with a universal block such as our own EK-VGA Supremacy. Coolingconfigurator.com will help you find any blocks that will be compatible with both of your cards. Definitely do not buy that $9 block on Amazon you linked earlier. It'll provide you only with headaches.


I concur,I had the first set of bridge edition EK uni's,lovely blocks.



I miss my old bench but i sure as hell dont miss the dust.....


----------



## jpetrach

Thanks guys I'm kinda a NOOB at this kind of stuff and im on a budget. so thank you for all your help. I look forward to picking your brains when I get my new mother board.


----------



## Gunderman456

I figured why have an extra 240mm rad sitting idle when it can be used to further promote my endeavour for a cooler water loop!

Refer to the Hawaiian Build Log (in sig) for more details on the mod.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I concur,I had the first set of bridge edition EK uni's,lovely blocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss my old bench but i sure as hell dont miss the dust.....


That's a sick bench, how long ago was that and did you paint the bench?


----------



## pc-illiterate

@Gunderman456 but youre barely pulling any air through the bottom half of the top fan. is your top internal rad intaking or exhausting?


----------



## Gunderman456

It's pushing air away from the case - so exhausting. Not worried about a minute loss in that respect. Main thing water is going through another rad and there are still 3 healthy fans (3.5 fans according to your observation) pushing air through it.

Mind you there is an additional and substantial air vent in the case in that area. So there will be additional exhausting going on in that bottom half of the top fan.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I figured why have an extra 240mm rad sitting idle when it can be used to further promote my endeavour for a cooler water loop!
> 
> Refer to the Hawaiian Build Log (in sig) for more details on the mod.


You'd get better performance if you could offset the fans that are attached to the case a bit. Have you looked at something like our Rad Box?


----------



## pc-illiterate

so if your top rad is exhausting warm air, your top external fan is half blocked and the other half is pulling warmed air from the case exhaust. and you dont add fans together to get '3.5 healthy fans'. its a 2x 120=240 rad. you have a 120 pulling air 'fresh' and half a fan mostly blocked while the unblocked half pulls warmed air.
still, nice looking rig, even with an external.


----------



## Gunderman456

The top and front rads are intake, only the external rad is exhaust.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> It's pushing air away from the case - so exhausting. Not worried about a minute loss in that respect. Main thing water is going through another rad and there are still 3 healthy fans (3.5 fans according to your observation) pushing air through it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> The top and front rads are intake, only the external rad is exhaust.


ok, you said it was exhausting. so now we see that external rad is pulling warmed air through it from the case with the full bottom 120 fan while the top 120 worth of fan is 1/3 pulling warmed case air, the hub area (including blades in that cross section) is blocked by thecase and the top half of that fan is actually pulling cooler air.
yeah, do what bram is suggesting and get the swiftech radbox or build an actual radbox.


----------



## Gunderman456

@ BramSLI1, yes I did look at brackets, as DazMode has the EK ones for $12. I figured though that the EK or the Swiftech bracket would need to be more of a shroud type for that bottom fan to be able to actually suck more air out of the case. I don't know, I could be wrong.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> @ BramSLI1, yes I did look at brackets, as DazMode has the EK ones for $12. I figured though that the EK or the Swiftech bracket would need to be more of a shroud type for that bottom fan to be able to actually suck more air out of the case. I don't know, I could be wrong.


Yes, that's right. It would be a sort of shroud.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ok, you said it was exhausting. so now we see that external rad is pulling warmed air through it from the case with the full bottom 120 fan while the top 120 worth of fan is 1/3 pulling warmed case air, the hub area (including blades in that cross section) is blocked by thecase and the top half of that fan is actually pulling cooler air.
> yeah, do what bram is suggesting and get the swiftech radbox or build an actual radbox.


Something like this? http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p9927_Phobya-radiator-shroud-20mm-for-120mm-fans--black-.html


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Something like this? http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p9927_Phobya-radiator-shroud-20mm-for-120mm-fans--black-.html


Yes, that would be perfect and would act like a shroud.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Yes, that would be perfect and would act like a shroud.


The radbox would look like this installed:


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Something like this? http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p9927_Phobya-radiator-shroud-20mm-for-120mm-fans--black-.html


no thats more or less the same as the casing on xspc ax rads. i mean an actual rad box. i separate box that holds the rads. i'll be using a spare pc case to put my rads in as soon as i get the qdc's and new tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no thats more or less the same as the casing on xspc ax rads. i mean an actual rad box. i separate box that holds the rads. i'll be using a spare pc case to put my rads in as soon as i get the qdc's and new tubing.


like a nova housings?

edit:


----------



## morencyam

Or just cut the motor and arms out of an old cheap fan and use the frame as a shroud


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> like a nova housings?
> 
> edit:


do you mean this?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_986&products_id=33261

not what i call a rad box. this is what i call a rad box

http://www.instructables.com/id/Computer-liquid-cooling-with-Car-parts/
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?p=11928468

that 2nd pic is actually what im doing and just found that thread.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no thats more or less the same as the casing on xspc ax rads. i mean an actual rad box. i separate box that holds the rads. i'll be using a spare pc case to put my rads in as soon as i get the qdc's and new tubing.


Oh I see , more like this http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-External-Radiator-Stand-for-2-x-240mm--Radiators-pid-11729.html or this http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Koolance-3-x-120mm-Radiator-Enclosure--Riser--ENC-360-pid-14708.html


----------



## Trolle BE

im going to get blasted for asking this but
did any try making spirals in their acryl tubes?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> im going to get blasted for asking this but
> did any try making spirals in their acryl tubes?


(YOU'RE SPOILING MY PLANS, STOP TALKING!!!







)

Never heard of it.









Thanks - T


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> im going to get blasted for asking this but
> did any try making spirals in their acryl tubes?


I actually tried that when i was practicing acrylic bending. Did a small one and came out decent. Had a hard time getting the silicone forming rod out though







.


----------



## kzim9

Since I added 780ti's to my main gaming rig, I needed to find a new home for the ol' 680's, so I opted to replace the 560's in my DVR rig with them. Only thing Is a now needed a loop.

I ran out of 90's so I had to make a couple ugly bends until I can order some more......


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> Since I added 780ti's to my main gaming rig, I needed to find a new home for the ol' 680's, so I opted to replace the 560's in my DVR rig with them. Only thing Is a now needed a loop.
> 
> I ran out of 90's so I had to make a couple ugly bends until I can order some more......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's the Lian-Li test bench? How did you mount those rads right there?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's the Lian-Li test bench? How did you mount those rads right there?


It looks like they're mounted to the optional fan mount. Really nice job though.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It looks like they're mounted to the optional fan mount. Really nice job though.


This optional fan mount comes with the Test Bench correct?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> This optional fan mount comes with the Test Bench correct?


No, I think you need to order it separately.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> Since I added 780ti's to my main gaming rig, I needed to find a new home for the ol' 680's, so I opted to replace the 560's in my DVR rig with them. Only thing Is a now needed a loop.
> 
> I ran out of 90's so I had to make a couple ugly bends until I can order some more......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I can see the upper ports connecting the two rads would be a good spot for 2 90's


----------



## stickg1

Oh okay, I might be getting one of those benches soon in a trade. Would be nice to make it a wet bench without too much hassle or modding.


----------



## kzim9

Yes you have to order the rad bracket separate. This bench has the perfect balance even though it looks like it should be front heavy with the rads.

Yes the connection between rads WILL be changing and also from the rad to the pump will be too.


----------



## stickg1

Well I hate to put the brakes on any project. But this is probably where this machine will sit until I get more work (more money)..

The cables could use some tidying, but the performance is solid and noise is minimal.



I need to find a way to get some more light on the motherboard without seeing the LED strip. I tried behind the top rad to shine down but the VRM heatsink sticks out past the radiator and blocks all the light.


----------



## VSG

Why don't you stick it on the window panel?


----------



## kpoeticg

White Cathode's are always good for lighting up the inside of a rig


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why don't you stick it on the window panel?


I don't want to be able to see the wire.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I don't want to be able to see the wire.


Stick, I think he means "why don't you mount it to the actual door directly above or below the window, on the doorframe itself."

Then you could his the wire pretty easy if you mount it so the wires are on the hinge side


----------



## stickg1

It's worth a shot at least. I think I will wait until I get the LED channels with a frosted defuser. I plan on putting all of them in a channel like that. But they are pretty expensive so I will hold off for now.

I'm looking for a game to play on this bad boy. I've been playing Assassins Creed IV and almost done with it.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I meant installing it on the door itself.


----------



## stickg1

I figured that much, it would just become a problem when I take the door off for maintenance which is quite often currently. I could just make make a molex or fan connector extension and unplug it I suppose.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It's worth a shot at least. I think I will wait until I get the LED channels with a frosted defuser. I plan on putting all of them in a channel like that. But they are pretty expensive so I will hold off for now.
> 
> I'm looking for a game to play on this bad boy. I've been playing Assassins Creed IV and almost done with it.


titanfall that's were it's at.....


----------



## stickg1

I'm too much of a sore loser for multi-player..


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> My first personal build ever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty good, huh?
> 
> I'm not very happy with my EK DDC3.2 PWM. It's making a loud whirring/ticking noise even at lower PWM ranges and is by far the loudest part in my build. I'm not sure whether this is normal for this type of pump or if I have a defect one.


Really slick build, nice job!









Is drilling/tapping an acrylic res a big deal? I had an idea for putting another hole in the bottom of my xspc bay res for a temp monitor or drain or something.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm too much of a sore loser for multi-player..


Easy fix for that,dnt lose







....Have you tried thief,played it and enjoyed it....Love what you've done with the rig,looking forward to it being finished....


----------



## stickg1

I still plan on getting a flow meter. The only place I could put it without it being out in the open would be first stop off of the pump output. Not sure if this will be a problem or not.

I guess I'll just have to see.

I had bigger plans for this rig but my budget has been exceeded and further additions will have to wait.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It's worth a shot at least. I think I will wait until I get the LED channels with a frosted defuser. I plan on putting all of them in a channel like that. But they are pretty expensive so I will hold off for now.
> 
> I'm looking for a game to play on this bad boy. I've been playing Assassins Creed IV and almost done with it.


FPS's FTW!!!!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Not really sure where to ask this outside of making a new thread, but will an AX360 rad be enough to handle 2x 290xs? I've heard it has similar performance to an RX360 which can handle about 600w so I assume it would be enough?


----------



## Gunderman456

Coming from personal experience no since 2 240mm rads could barely cut it. The cards stayed cool enough but the CPU got warm. That is why I'm actually adding a 360mm to the loop.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Coming from personal experience no since 2 240mm rads could barely cut it. The cards stayed cool enough but the CPU got warm. That is why I'm actually adding a 360mm to the loop.


I'm not trying to cool my CPU though, only my GPUs. You don't think a single would be enough for just those?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I'm not trying to cool my CPU though, only my GPUs. You don't think a single would be enough for just those?


The 360 would be enough to cool those cards,but why not just do a loop with the cpu and add another 240 rad....?

Edit just saw what case you have,fill it up with 2x480 and do an entire loop...


----------



## Gunderman456

Those cards are really hot, especially if you overclock. The CPU naturally wants to climb to 95C and the VRMs, especially VRM1s will get super hot. The better you took care to use CLU and better thermal pads like Fujipoly, the more heat transfer and the more rad space required. I would suggest at least 240mm rad space per card.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> The 360 would be enough to cool those cards,but why not just do a loop with the cpu and add another 240 rad....?
> 
> Edit just saw what case you have,fill it up with 2x480 and do an entire loop...


I don't really see the need to custom cool my CPU. It already runs 4.5ghz without breaking a sweat at 1.2 volts and rarely ever goes above 60c (idles in the 20s). Plus cooling GPUs in this case seems easy with the bottom slots for the rads, but having to run the stuff up to the CPU seems like it would be a pain like it was the last time I tried to set one up. I already own an AX360 which is why I was asking if it would be enough.


----------



## kpoeticg

It would be enough.

Just seems like a waste to have a giant chassis with a loop cooling your gpu's and no cpu block. If you're gonna already be buying a pump, res, fittings, tubing, coolant, & gpu blocks, might as well get the extra rad and cpu block to make it official =)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I don't really see the need to custom cool my CPU. It already runs 4.5ghz without breaking a sweat at 1.2 volts and rarely ever goes above 60c (idles in the 20s). Plus cooling GPUs in this case seems easy with the bottom slots for the rads, but having to run the stuff up to the CPU seems like it would be a pain like it was the last time I tried to set one up. I already own an AX360 which is why I was asking if it would be enough.


a 360 should be fine, specially if you run some 1800RPM fans. It won't be the best temps in the world, but it will definitely be allot cooler than air.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It would be enough.
> 
> Just seems like a waste to have a giant chassis with a loop cooling your gpu's and no cpu block. If you're gonna already be buying a pump, res, fittings, tubing, coolant, & gpu blocks, might as well get the extra rad and cpu block to make it official =)


Nah I already own the res and fittings. Only thing I need is pump/res to replace my crap XSPC combo and some gpu blocks. I actually also already own a CPU block as well lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> a 360 should be fine, specially if you run some 1800RPM fans. It won't be the best temps in the world, but it will definitely be allot cooler than air.


Yeah that's fine with me. I don't need to be doing any major OCs or anything I just want to runn 1100-1120 mhz at less than 85/65c like my current air setup.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Nah I already own the res and fittings. Only thing I need is pump/res/gpu blocks. I actually also already own a CPU block as well lol.
> Yeah that's fine with me. I don't need to be doing any major OCs or anything I just want to runn 1100-1120 mhz at less than 85/65c like my current air setup.


Well make it official and add a 480 in the mix, atleast you will be able to run your fans at a lower rpm....


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Well make it official and add a 480 in the mix, atleast you will be able to run your fans at a lower rpm....


Maybe if you could recommend me a good 480 radiator that won't break the bank I would look into it.


----------



## szeged

Xspc ex 480


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Xspc ex 480


Huh.. yeah that is pretty cheap. I think I paid like 120$ for my AX360 so I figured the 480s would be 20-30$ more.


----------



## morencyam

The alphacool nexxxos line of radiators is really nice and the st30 and xt45 are pretty reasonably priced. Depending on space I'd go with the thickest radiator while still being able to do push-pull


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Huh.. yeah that is pretty cheap. I think I paid like 120$ for my AX360 so I figured the 480s would be 20-30$ more.


$120 is a tad high for a 360. I paid $120 for each of my 560mm UT60s


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Any recommendations on waterblocks for the cards? Which company was it that was making the block for the DCUII 290x? Also is there a crossfire bridge tubing connector for the 290x out?


----------



## VSG

I paid $105 for my Ax480 brand new so you definitely overpaid for the AX360.


----------



## stickg1

If your tight on cash check the marketplace. I got 75% of my rig there!


----------



## DarthBaggins

yeah 90% of my loop came from the Marketplace


----------



## morencyam

I bought a radiator, a reservoir, a bunch of fans and some other hardware and always had good experiences. You can find some really good deals there too


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've sold a bunch of stuff in the marketplace but never actually bought anything. There's just something about opening a brand new piece of hardware for the very first time that I would miss too much to buy used. Luckily most people are smarter than me and realize the massive savings you can achieve by buying used as that's where I get money to upgrade stuff; by selling my old stuff!


----------



## kpoeticg

I've bought a bunch of stuff on the Marketplace but never sold anything









Shiny new hardware's great, but i always keep an eye out on the marketplace for good deals on WC components or fans i might need =)


----------



## pc-illiterate

ive never seen a company besides ek make blocks for the dc2 cards. may be different for amd but not nvidia


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That's one thing I love about EK. Typically they are your only hope if you want to water cool your brand new non-reference video card....


----------



## skupples

One of the benefits of making 99% of the products in house!


----------



## darwing




----------



## kpoeticg

Sek-seeeee =)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I always knew that Asus's new black/gold color scheme could look amazing if somebody went to the trouble to coordinate everything. I see I was right! Very beautiful looking rig man!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I always knew that Asus's new black/gold color scheme could look amazing if somebody went to the trouble to coordinate everything. I see I was right! Very beautiful looking rig man!


----------



## Jakewat

That gold is looking real nice! Tell me you have the gold EK block?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> The 360 would be enough to cool those cards,but why not just do a loop with the cpu and add another 240 rad....?
> 
> Edit just saw what case you have,fill it up with 2x480 and do an entire loop...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really see the need to custom cool my CPU. It already runs 4.5ghz without breaking a sweat at 1.2 volts and rarely ever goes above 60c (idles in the 20s). Plus cooling GPUs in this case seems easy with the bottom slots for the rads, but having to run the stuff up to the CPU seems like it would be a pain like it was the last time I tried to set one up. I already own an AX360 which is why I was asking if it would be enough.
Click to expand...

I agree with the others, 360mm rad should be enough in cooling two 290's. Your ambient pretty low enough, even with a lot of heat generated by these cards once you overclocked, water temp will still low. Probably EK can do better in cooling VRM1 with their DC2 water block.

Unless A/C is on, my lowest ambient (indoor) temp is 28C. Most of the time 30+ C. Trying to keep low water temp is difficult with two 290's in this ambient. I have 360 & 240mm radiator for CPU & GPU's loop. Temps for CPU & GPU's are fine though. Just bought some stuff trying to *tame* the water temp. My casing still have space for another two 120mm rad. Bought one for now & see whether it will make any difference. If it does, going to get another 120mm rad.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Atleast you will be able to run your fans at a lower rpm, when I added my oyher 240 I went from 2300 to 1000-1400 depending on game and ambient temps....


----------



## MR-e

She's ALIVE!!!

Follow the progress through my log here!


----------



## mercinator16

Hi I am a newbie to water cooling and I would like to build my very first setup. Where should I start? What are all of the parts and such that I would need to have a complete setup for a gpu and cpu?


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> $120 is a tad high for a 360. I paid $120 for each of my 560mm UT60s


i can't believe they're that cheap. would've easily gotten 560 ut60's for my smh10, but i got a great deal for 2 560 sr1's which were only ten bucks more.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Hi I am a newbie to water cooling and I would like to build my very first setup. Where should I start? What are all of the parts and such that I would need to have a complete setup for a gpu and cpu?


At the very minimum you need blocks for the GPU and CPU, a pump, a reservoir (or a pump/res combo), tubing, radiator, and fittings (oh, and distilled water/additive or a coolant). For a decent starter set, you can get one of the pre-configured XSPC kits, they have good components and are reasonably priced.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=38686

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_202&zenid=4c38cc2740305520db459c3f6a9c84ac


----------



## Majentrix

You'll need:

A CPU block
A GPU block
A pump
A reservoir
A few meters of tubing
And the necessary fittings for everything.

I'd suggest looking into a kit for a first time water cooler, they take the headache out of everything and are very easy to install even if you have no experience with a loop. Hit up Alphacool's website, they have some great kits there and aren't terribly expensive. You can expand them to include your graphics card too, though you'll need an additional GPU block to include your card.


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> At the very minimum you need blocks for the GPU and CPU, a pump, a reservoir (or a pump/res combo), tubing, radiator, and fittings (oh, and distilled water/additive or a coolant). For a decent starter set, you can get one of the pre-configured XSPC kits, they have good components and are reasonably priced.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=38686
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_202&zenid=4c38cc2740305520db459c3f6a9c84ac


Thanks, what would be optimal, a res and pump or a combo?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Thanks, what would be optimal, a res and pump or a combo?


Really depends on your preference. I think a pump and res gives more flexibility and is a little easier to work with, but they tend to be a little more expensive.

Something like this kit, and then add a GPU block for your card and two additional fittings, would be a good start. Or you can just build up your own custom kit - tends to be more expensive, but you get to choose all your own components.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=39812

Edit: I guess I should be more clear - there are pump/res combos that go in the drive bay (bay res/pump) and then there are pump/res combos that go somewhere else in the case. I'm talking about the second of those, but there is also the option of getting a pump and a completely separate res that would be connected to the pump by tubing, instead of being an integral unit.


----------



## royce5950

the best bang for your buck kit would probably be an xspc set up bought off of either frozen CPU.com Performance pcs.com the xspc kit comes with everythig you need and it is one of the only full kids that give you all of the it's necessary for water cooling and allows you to use the parts Within the kit with other parts of your choice to further customize and make your build unique. Ek makes a kit too which would be better but the xspc is cheaper and still good quality.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I always knew that Asus's new black/gold color scheme could look amazing if somebody went to the trouble to coordinate everything. I see I was right! Very beautiful looking rig man!
> I always knew that Asus's new black/gold color scheme could look amazing if somebody went to the trouble to coordinate everything. I see I was right! Very beautiful looking rig man!


Thank you so much you wouldn't believe the work I've done to this and still barely scratching the surface, every millimeter has been covered for the two 420rads look like they were built for this, I've had to mod literally every aspect of the build so far and so much more to come

Delidding, acrylic tube, monsoons hard line gold fittings, and for the next question:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> That gold is looking real nice! Tell me you have the gold EK block?


Do I have the ek gold block? Does m.nigh shamalon ruin every movie he makes?? sheesh


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> You'll need:
> 
> A CPU block
> A GPU block
> A pump
> A reservoir
> A few meters of tubing
> And the necessary fittings for everything.
> 
> I'd suggest looking into a kit for a first time water cooler, they take the headache out of everything and are very easy to install even if you have no experience with a loop. Hit up Alphacool's website, they have some great kits there and aren't terribly expensive. You can expand them to include your graphics card too, though you'll need an additional GPU block to include your card.


The site seems outdated and they don't have any blocks listed for my socket.


----------



## Majentrix

Wow that's embarrassing, I linked the old one.

This is the one you want. I'd also recommend that you buy their kits off the sites others have listed above, such as performance-pcs.


----------



## mercinator16

Im still confused on these different types of res, pumps, radiator sizes, fittings and tubing type, block type, let alone I don't even know what can fit into my case.

Do I need one radiator for both the cpu and gpu or more? Who makes the best blocks? I really want the best performance possible within what my case can hold to the brim.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Do I have the ek gold block? Does m.nigh shamalon ruin every movie he makes?? sheesh


Just making sure







. Can't wait to see this all fitted out, what are you using for tube and coolant?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Im still confused on these different types of res, pumps, radiator sizes, fittings and tubing type, block type, let alone I don't even know what can fit into my case.
> 
> Do I need one radiator for both the cpu and gpu or more? Who makes the best blocks? I really want the best performance possible within what my case can hold to the brim.


What case do you have? Ideally for a CPU and GPU you'd want 360mm of radiator space (or more), either a single 360 or a 240 and 120 (depending on what your case would allow). But it's fine to have just a single radiator, you don't need separate ones for each component.

How much were you looking to spend? The XSPC Raystorm block (the one in the kit) is one of the better ones but for the most part they are all going to be in the same ballpark. Same goes for radiators, for a given size/thickness the difference between brands is generally pretty small (except for a few specific cases, like ones with really high fin density).


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> What case do you have? Ideally for a CPU and GPU you'd want about 360mm of radiator space, either a single 360 or a 240 and 120 (depending on what your case would allow). But it's fine to have just a single radiator, you don't need separate ones for each component.
> 
> How much were you looking to spend? The XSPC Raystorm block (the one in the kit) is one of the better ones but for the most part they are all going to be in the same ballpark. Same goes for radiators, for a given size/thickness the difference between brands is generally pretty small (except for a few specific cases, like ones with really high fin density).


My case is the CM HAF XM http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=3087

I really don't have a budget, I was planning on saving up and selling to get the amount needed.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Im still confused on these different types of res, pumps, radiator sizes, fittings and tubing type, block type, let alone I don't even know what can fit into my case.
> 
> Do I need one radiator for both the cpu and gpu or more? Who makes the best blocks? I really want the best performance possible within what my case can hold to the brim.


Then look here to find the gear that's compatible with you hardware www.coolingconfigurator.com

Then look at www.ekwb.com they have some of the highest quality stuff for water cooling

You can buy your items directly from EK if your in Europe, it would be cheaper that way.

If your in the US, try:

www.frozencpu.com use code OCN to get 5.1% off

www.performance-pcs.com use code OCN55 to get 5.5% off


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

The NZXT Mix 2 fan controller is fantastic, for such a low cost device, it works wonders. i forgot who recommended it, but thanks! it rocks.


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Hi I am a newbie to water cooling and I would like to build my very first setup. Where should I start? What are all of the parts and such that I would need to have a complete setup for a gpu and cpu?


How about reading the sticky in this forum: http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling-essential-threads/0_30

After reading atleast one wc guide you can still ask if some things are unclear or if a specific setup would work.


----------



## Mydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Thank you so much you wouldn't believe the work I've done to this and still barely scratching the surface, every millimeter has been covered for the two 420rads look like they were built for this, I've had to mod literally every aspect of the build so far and so much more to come
> 
> Delidding, acrylic tube, monsoons hard line gold fittings, and for the next question:
> Do I have the ek gold block? Does m.nigh shamalon ruin every movie he makes?? sheesh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking build you got there










Was going to do a black/Gold build a while back but I never found the fittings that could match my two Swiftech Limited Edition Apogee HD blocks (snr. 006 and 007 or the "Bond"







)


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Hi I am a newbie to water cooling and I would like to build my very first setup. Where should I start? What are all of the parts and such that I would need to have a complete setup for a gpu and cpu?


I suggest watching Dazmode's watercooling guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmbmW-I8Bno


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Just making sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can't wait to see this all fitted out, what are you using for tube and coolant?


I have mayhems pastel pure black coursing through ek 1/2"(I/D) 5/8"(OD) acrylic clear tubing going to be bringing the black through the tubes and reservoir









[build/video log - gold rush

Even better is my video log custom computing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mydog*
> 
> Great looking build you got there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was going to do a black/Gold build a while back but I never found the fittings that could match my two Swiftech Limited Edition Apogee HD blocks (snr. 006 and 007 or the "Bond"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I was originally thinking of using this as well however the ek gold came out and like the ability to see the liquid as well it has much higher ratings than the apogee cpu block.

Finally I didn't want to over saturate it with gold there is plenary in there and you won't be able to see the inside of the ek CPU block because it will be pastel black









[build/video log - gold rush

Even better is my video log custom computing

Should be uploading part 4 right after I receive coo laboratory liquid ultra and delid the 4770k


----------



## PCModderMike

Had to share.... sauce: http://imgur.com/gallery/8RUAz


----------



## iamkraine

Leak tested and ready for power

















Will add sleeved wiring tonight. Then power button and lastly lighting button and LEDs hopefully by the end of the week


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Had to share.... sauce: http://imgur.com/gallery/8RUAz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That disco ball. toplel


----------



## jpetrach

http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-version-PCI-Express-Graphics-11217-04-20G/dp/B00FLMKN6I/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1395159814&sr=1-14&keywords=r9+270

can I get the community's opinion, this is a 4 gb card vs. a 2 gb card but at the same price point.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-version-PCI-Express-Graphics-11217-04-20G/dp/B00FLMKN6I/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1395159814&sr=1-14&keywords=r9+270
> 
> can I get the community's opinion, this is a 4 gb card vs. a 2 gb card but at the same price point.


Go for a card with 4GB of Vram that will help you out in the long run and also now with some demanding games.


----------



## Gunderman456

Oops. double post.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*


Really nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-version-PCI-Express-Graphics-11217-04-20G/dp/B00FLMKN6I/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1395159814&sr=1-14&keywords=r9+270
> 
> can I get the community's opinion, this is a 4 gb card vs. a 2 gb card but at the same price point.


Well if it is the same price than the 4gb would be preferable. Although in reality the card will likely max out before it could ever really use over 2gb vram, so it won't matter to much.


----------



## Gunderman456

I'm thinking of sleeving the cables.

I need some help to determine if I purchased enough sleeving/heatshrink material and if the sizes are correct for my PSU (EVGA G2 1300W) - main rig in sig.




Thanks.


----------



## lowfat

Gunderman456 it is pretty easy to figure out how much you need. If you are individually sleeving all the wires. Just mutplier the number of wires you need to sleeve by their length. On a standard PSU cables are generally 18" for most things. So just for the 24 pin, 8pin EPS, 6 + 8 pin PCIe cables you would need 70 feet assuming zero mistakes, which will definitely happen.


----------



## Gunderman456

I based the lengh and sizes on a preassembled kit you can buy on DazMode.

So I seem to have 30 feet in total for the sleeves.

Which sleeve size should I get more footing for?

What about size, did I take into consideration all the sizes I will encounter?

Let me simplify.

I intend to only sleeve the main 24 pin mobo power cable. You won't see the other mobo power cable and the GPU cables are already sleeved nicely.

So I figure 50ft but what size sleeve and heatshrink- 12mm (1/2")?


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Really nice.
> Well if it is the same price than the 4GB would be preferable. Although in reality the card will likely max out before it could ever really use over 2gb vram, so it won't matter to much.


i have a GTX 680 4gb and when i play crysis 3 it uses 2.5-3GB when its maxed


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I based the lengh and sizes on a preassembled kit you can buy on DazMode.
> 
> So I seem to have 30 feet in total for the sleeves.
> 
> Which sleeve size should I get more footing for?
> 
> What about size, did I take into consideration all the sizes I will encounter?
> 
> Let me simplify.
> 
> I intend to only sleeve the main 24 pin mobo power cable. You won't see the other mobo power cable and the GPU cables are already sleeved nicely.
> 
> So I figure 50ft but what size sleeve and heatshrink- 12mm (1/2")?


75 ft is what you need for a standard ATX PSU.

Not including any fans you may want to do.

EDIT: Lowfat has already pointed this out.

EDIT2: You only want to do the 24 pin? 35ft


----------



## RickRockerr

I was planning to hook 6 fan directly to mobo because I don't want fan controller. I decided to put 3 fans for cpu_fan and 3 for cpu_opt but it turns out that I cannot control fans on cpu_opt.
Fans pull 1.32 amps combined so it would be 0.66 amps per header. Would something like this work for controlling all 6 fans?

My paint skill is over 9000!!


----------



## Gunderman456

Thanks lowfat and B Negative, I decided to go with a 100 foot Kobra 4mm Red spool and no heatshrink.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I was planning to hook 6 fan directly to mobo because I don't want fan controller. I decided to put 3 fans for cpu_fan and 3 for cpu_opt but it turns out that I cannot control fans on cpu_opt.
> Fans pull 1.32 amps combined so it would be 0.66 amps per header. Would something like this work for controlling all 6 fans?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My paint skill is over 9000!!


CPU_OPT should just be a mirror of CPU_FAN. Whatever you have CPU_FAN set to do, CPU_OPT should also be doing the same.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Really nice.


Thanks the acrylic + gloss painted fans really stick out, I cant wait till I can start to put in the tubing and finish up all the mods Ive done... takes so long and so much time to barely see things move along


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> CPU_OPT should just be a mirror of CPU_FAN. Whatever you have CPU_FAN set to do, CPU_OPT should also be doing the same.


Not sure if it works with pwm fans but im 100% sure that it doesn't mirror it with 3pin fans. Im testing it tomorrow but I just wanted to know that if it doesn't work
will that kind of splitter work.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Thanks the acrylic + gloss painted fans really stick out, I cant wait till I can start to put in the tubing and finish up all the mods Ive done... takes so long and so much time to barely see things move along


Yeah it turned out great


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Not sure if it works with pwm fans but im 100% sure that it doesn't mirror it with 3pin fans. Im testing it tomorrow but I just wanted to know that if it doesn't work
> will that kind of splitter work.


The CPU headers are 4 pin PWM headers so I am not sure how you are using it to control 3 pin fans.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The CPU headers are 4 pin PWM headers so I am not sure how you are using it to control 3 pin fans.


Oh god I'm stupid







I confused these headers because all headers in sabertooth z77 are "pwm" headers but all but cpu and cpu_opt are voltage controlled


----------



## skupples

I'm pretty well convinced it is some sort of growth, but wanted to get peoples two cents about it... You can see it right in front of the down tube, white wispy thing, kinda looks like spider webs blowing in the wind.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Possible plasticizer is all I can think of


----------



## skupples

That would be strange since i'm using Norprene.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah that would be, unless there was remnants left in the loop or something is coming apart inside. But that's weird


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*


what are those iron thingies?(stupid question i know







)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm pretty well convinced it is some sort of growth, but wanted to get peoples two cents about it... You can see it right in front of the down tube, white wispy thing, kinda looks like spider webs blowing in the wind.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Doesn't look like any algae I know.


----------



## wermad

Jetplates


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> what are those iron thingies?(stupid question i know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Jetplates


That is the correct answer


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I was planning to hook 6 fan directly to mobo because I don't want fan controller. I decided to put 3 fans for cpu_fan and 3 for cpu_opt but it turns out that I cannot control fans on cpu_opt.
> Fans pull 1.32 amps combined so it would be 0.66 amps per header. Would something like this work for controlling all 6 fans?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My paint skill is over 9000!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU_OPT should just be a mirror of CPU_FAN. Whatever you have CPU_FAN set to do, CPU_OPT should also be doing the same.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure if it works with pwm fans but im 100% sure that it doesn't mirror it with 3pin fans. Im testing it tomorrow but I just wanted to know that if it doesn't work
> will that kind of splitter work.
Click to expand...

CPU_OPT should just be a mirror of CPU_FAN, but not sure I'd want to have 6 fans attached to them. It might work just fine, or it might turn out to be too much for the motherboard. Might want to double check your mobo's max load capacity on the CPU headers and figure what load your fans would be placing on them.

I suspect that you would be better off to use a splitter that just uses the PWM signal and tach from the CPU_FAN header, and the 12v + ground from your PSU, like the Swiftech splitter linked previously.

Or, if you would rather wire up your own pwm splitter cable, it should be something like this ...


----------



## szeged

@skupples

probably algae of some kind. Thats what the red goop in my loop turned out to be lol.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> CPU_OPT should just be a mirror of CPU_FAN, but not sure I'd want to have 6 fans attached to them. It might work just fine, or it might turn out to be too much for the motherboard. Might want to double check your mobo's max load capacity on the CPU headers and figure what load your fans would be placing on them.
> 
> I suspect that you would be better off to use a splitter that just uses the PWM signal and tach from the CPU_FAN header, and the 12v + ground from your PSU, like the Swiftech splitter linked previously.
> 
> Or, if you would rather wire up your own pwm splitter cable, it should be something like this ...


thanks for the pic. I think that i'll make splitter like that myself. Meanwhile I will run the fans on cpu fan headers because someone on asus support said that 3 fans per header will work but there is a risk to burn the headers over time if power drain increases.


----------



## SwishaMane

What would make the speed control of a MCP655 not work? The dial itself just spins and spins, feels lose as if its not connected to anything. I just bought a "lightly" used one on ebay, and it came in this condition. Mechanically it seems to be stuck in 4 or 5, and is working great! But I cant adjust it...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What would make the speed control of a MCP655 not work? The dial itself just spins and spins, feels lose as if its not connected to anything. I just bought a "lightly" used one on ebay, and it came in this condition. Mechanically it seems to be stuck in 4 or 5, and is working great! But I cant adjust it...


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21107/ex-pmp-254/D5_Vario_Pump_Replacement_Speed_Control_Knob.html?tl=g30c107s156










Pretty common for the speed control knob to get broken. People mistake the screwdriver slot for the pointer and don't notice there's an arrow on the knob. When it's really on 5 they think it's on 2 and go to turn it up. It breaks easy if you do that.


----------



## pc-illiterate

and you can buy a replacement for $1.50 plus shipping
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21107/ex-pmp-254/D5_Vario_Pump_Replacement_Speed_Control_Knob.html?tl=g30c107s156


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, I had already linked the same item in the post above.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Really nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks the acrylic + gloss painted fans really stick out, I cant wait till I can start to put in the tubing and finish up all the mods Ive done... takes so long and so much time to barely see things move along
Click to expand...

What color tubing? Ya, to color coordinate an entire build must take ages, have to repaint so many components, unless you are going with a pretty typical theme, red/black where you can coordinate a lot of parts out of the box to that color scheme.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> and you can buy a replacement for $1.50 plus shipping
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21107/ex-pmp-254/D5_Vario_Pump_Replacement_Speed_Control_Knob.html?tl=g30c107s156


Awesome! Thanks guys! Will do...







+rep


----------



## pkrexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21107/ex-pmp-254/D5_Vario_Pump_Replacement_Speed_Control_Knob.html?tl=g30c107s156
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty common for the speed control knob to get broken. People mistake the screwdriver slot for the pointer and don't notice there's an arrow on the knob. When it's really on 5 they think it's on 2 and go to turn it up. It breaks easy if you do that.


Sadly I did this exact thing when I was installing my D5 Vario. "oh look, 2 is low... let me give it a twist.... Snap*

So now its stuck on 5, but its still quiet... so I haven't really bothered to fix it.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What color tubing? Ya, to color coordinate an entire build must take ages, have to repaint so many components, unless you are going with a pretty typical theme, red/black where you can coordinate a lot of parts out of the box to that color scheme.


Yeah definitely a money and time pit, but hopefully once Ive done this I'll be able to show it off at shows or something, the first 750D with two 420 triple Rads









I'm using EK clear 16mm acrylic tubing, with Mayhems Pure Pastel Black, the LEDs should shine off the black beautifully and using Monsoon Hardline Gold fittings... the fittings are going to be hard to figure out how many and which should be gold and which should be black..

Always thinking... Always thinking LOL


----------



## wermad

My fans didn't match my tube and res in the exact color. Could have matched the tube (atomic green) or fans (Gelid) or res (dark green spirals, non-uv), but oh well










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What would make the speed control of a MCP655 not work? The dial itself just spins and spins, feels lose as if its not connected to anything. I just bought a "lightly" used one on ebay, and it came in this condition. Mechanically it seems to be stuck in 4 or 5, and is working great! But I cant adjust it...


Someone with the same problem and some extra info to what has already been given above








http://www.overclock.net/t/365313/mcp655-vario-pump-faulty-damaged-speed-control-knob
I have the same pump. It is located so I cant adjust the speed without tearing everything a part









The link seams to implicate that the back lid (where the knob is located) can be popped off quite easily.. I might just remove the original potmeter and add an external








but then again, Im running setting 4 witch gives me 1-1.3 GPM (4-5 LPM) and completely inaudible, so why would I ever want to change the speed?
Probably not gonna do it, but good to know that it is doable without braking the plastic.


----------



## Gunderman456

I took the constructive criticism in relation to my last case mod - page 6405. Specifically, suggestion was that I add a rad bracket to permit better cooling from the 240mm rad fans.

So in the spirit of moar performance, I just purchased The Feser Company Acrylic 120MM Fan Radiator Shroud for $12.34 and two Dual Red 5mm LEDs for the TFC Shroud for $9.48 from DazMode!


----------



## whitie63

2011 socket EK CPU block does better at cooling with the ports going up and down vs left and right
could some one clear this up for me does it effect temps it would sure make it easier to bleed the air out



Thanks in advance Chris


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 2011 socket EK CPU block does better at cooling with the ports going up and down vs left and right
> could some one clear this up for me does it effect temps it would sure make it easier to bleed the air out
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance Chris


It has been measured that there is a difference, but it is rather minimal.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> 2011 socket EK CPU block does better at cooling with the ports going up and down vs left and right
> could some one clear this up for me does it effect temps it would sure make it easier to bleed the air out
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance Chris


There's a few more reviews of 90° placement, here's one:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?282245-Stren-s-2012-CPU-Water-Block-Roundup

There's a small advantage. Nothing to worry about imho. I have mine just like yours mainly for easy of connecting it to my loop. I don't mind loosing 1-2 degrees in cooling because of the orientation.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's a few more reviews of 90° placement, here's one:
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?282245-Stren-s-2012-CPU-Water-Block-Roundup
> 
> There's a small advantage. Nothing to worry about imho. I have mine just like yours mainly for easy of connecting it to my loop. I don't mind loosing 1-2 degrees in cooling because of the orientation.


thanks for the info I will have to give it a try every time I drain and fill my loop it seems to be the hardest place to get the air bubbles out kind of hard to stand a 70 pound 900D on its head lol again thank you


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm pretty well convinced it is some sort of growth, but wanted to get peoples two cents about it... You can see it right in front of the down tube, white wispy thing, kinda looks like spider webs blowing in the wind.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hair?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Hair?


That is what I thought @ first, but it seems to have multiplied. It is clinging to the Bitspower Reservoir. I'm going to flush it this weekend I think. Only problem is that i'm down to DeadWater & 2 bottles of X1, and I really didn't want to use the X1 in the 900D.


----------



## kpoeticg

Stren's review on XS is why i made my ports up & down.

It makes sense though since since the Die in LGA2011 goes up & down.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My fans didn't match my tube and res in the exact color. Could have matched the tube (atomic green) or fans (Gelid) or res (dark green spirals, non-uv), but oh well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Exact matching is over-rated. I like the different shades of green personally.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Exact matching is over-rated. I like the different shades of green personally.


I don't disagree with that at all, not in the slightest, but seeing that comment coming from stickg1, considering this recent back-and-forth, that had me


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't disagree with that at all, not in the slightest, but seeing that comment coming from stickg1, considering this recent back-and-forth, that had me


Words of wisdom....







Sorry stick i do agree with this....


----------



## skupples




----------



## stickg1

LOL, it's green I tell you! Get your monitors fixed!


----------



## aaroc

Today I went to the nearest hardware store and then to two gas stations searching for distilled water. They only have clear demineralized water (Deionized water process) for electric iron use, etc.. and green deminaralized water for use in car radiators, it says it has something to avoid corrosion. On the same section they offered anti freezing for car radiators with a yellow color that contains glycol or similar..
What do you recommend me to buy? I ordered EK cooper+Acetal water blocks, Mo-ra 360 and alphacool XT450 radiators,Aquacomp XT pumps. monsoon fittings and reservoir and flexible tubing. The Monsoon items have a little silver on them. If I will need some additive to avoid problems, please recommend me one.
I will post pictures when everything arrives. Thanks 4 your help.


----------



## kpoeticg

Do you live in the US? Go to the pharmacy, not the hardware store









All my Distilled is CVS Brand

People use it in Dehumidifier's, so most/all pharmacies in the USA stock it


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Today I went to the nearest hardware store and then to two gas stations searching for distilled water. They only have clear demineralized water (Deionized water process) for electric iron use, etc.. and green deminaralized water for use in car radiators, it says it has something to avoid corrosion. On the same section they offered anti freezing for car radiators with a yellow color that contains glycol or similar..
> What do you recommend me to buy? I ordered EK cooper+Acetal water blocks, Mo-ra 360 and alphacool XT450 radiators,Aquacomp XT pumps. monsoon fittings and reservoir and flexible tubing. The Monsoon items have a little silver on them. If I will need some additive to avoid problems, please recommend me one.
> I will post pictures when everything arrives. Thanks 4 your help.


Go to Wal-Mart.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Do you live in the US? Go to the pharmacy, not the hardware store
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All my Distilled is CVS Brand
> 
> People use it in Dehumidifier's, so most/all pharmacies in the USA stock it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Go to Wal-Mart.


I live in Chile







, no Wal-Mart here. I will go to the supermarket/grocery store and to the pharmacy to check. Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Try the pharmacy. Di water is used a lot for medical treatments so you'll probably fine some there


----------



## pc-illiterate

demineralized water (Deionized water process) for electric iron use

would have been fine.


----------



## DOOOLY

Finished my first water cooling build here are pictures.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> demineralized water (Deionized water process) for electric iron use
> 
> would have been fine.


This is what I use in my loop, no problems yet....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Go to Wal-Mart.


No kidding. My distilled costs me about $.69 for a gallon. Works absolutely the same as any other distilled water...


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> No kidding. My distilled costs me about $.69 for a gallon. Works absolutely the same as any other distilled water...


$0.43/gallon for me









If only dry ice was that cheap


----------



## skupples

distilled is 1.00-1.50$ a gallon here.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Good lord Skup, you're only like 7 hours away from me. How is water so expensive down there?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOOOLY*
> 
> Finished my first water cooling build here are pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks good. Did you mean to have the rear fan as an intake?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> That looks good. Did you mean to have the rear fan as an intake?


Probably so, since he'd have negative pressure with it set as an exhaust since his front 360 is also exhaust. If it were me though I'd have both rads as intake and the rear fan set as exhaust. The front rad is going to be intaking warm air from the top rad with the current config.

Nice build though.


----------



## Majentrix

In retrospect I should've gone for a 90" fitting with an extender on the graphics card, but hey hindsight is 20/20


----------



## darwing

Gold Rush Part 4 - Custom Paint, Final Mounting, Lighting, Acrylic Plating.

In this build-log update I pay close attention to the smaller details of the build, screw paintings, acrylic paneling and a full re-do of the paint job. I finally mount the front as well as get the radiators put in.

When I hit 100 subscribers Im going to hold another contest so stay tuned and keep the comments coming they will increase your chances of winning.


----------



## VSG

New EK-FB R4BE Monoblock released (retail in 3 weeks or so)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> distilled is 1.00-1.50$ a gallon here.


Depends on the brand here, I went with Deer Park's Distilled that states on the label safe for small appliance and it varies in price from .80-1.20 here in Atlanta
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New EK-FB R4BE Monoblock released (retail in 3 weeks or so)


Now that's a sessi block setup


----------



## Elder

Interesting solution ... I'm waiting for the first tests.
May the CPU temperature relative to the Supremacy did not fare worse.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> distilled is 1.00-1.50$ a gallon here.


OK, cry over this! £16 a Gallon here. That would be around $27.50 a Gallon!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Depends on the brand here, I went with Deer Park's Distilled that states on the label safe for small appliance and it varies in price from .80-1.20 here in Atlanta
> Now that's a sessi block setup


I think it is because of the old people as it is used in medical devices. Ever seen a water cooled arm? It's a post surgery device that circulates cold water through a brace. Its a small pump inside a cooler that hooks up to the brace via QDC. Anyways it recommends distilled water, just like humidifiers.


----------



## Gunderman456

*Or make your own distilled water like I did;*


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> *Or make your own distilled water like I did;*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! I was thinking about making a setup like this.. care to explain it a bit?
First is a home made boiler on the stove with regular tap water?
What is the middle part? some kind of filter? or accumulator? (obviously also home made)
and then a copper pipe going through a bottle of ice to liquify the vapors.

Looks nice, how fast can it purify a liter or a gallon?


----------



## Gunderman456

Everything there is home made.

I used regular tap water.

The middle there is made up of coiled tubing that sits in cold water. Basically, the black tube you see in pic, it coiled inside the plastic container. I also placed those blue ice packs in between the coil to cool the steam.

Ideally, you'd want to use copper throughout to avoid plasticiser.

If you have any more questions let me know.


----------



## zmegati

This is my new set up:


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> This is my new set up:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautifully done!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Interesting solution ... I'm waiting for the first tests.
> May the CPU temperature relative to the Supremacy did not fare worse.


Here are results done by [email protected] with our Impact Full Board block.










Source

You should see similar improvements  as well as the convenience of not having to use 6 fittings + tons of tubing!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New EK-FB R4BE Monoblock released (retail in 3 weeks or so)


I'd take one of these for a Maximus VI Gene and a future Rampage V Extreme if I could (hint hint EK).


----------



## skupples

it does make sense that it would work better and overall cost less it's just ugly. It does take like $100 worth of fittings to link the board up.

How does the chip set block link with the CPU block?


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, sure i just spent a few hundred in fittings that's being delivered today so i can link up that same area. Figures i'd wake up to a pic of the new block


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Everything there is home made.
> 
> I used regular tap water.
> 
> The middle there is made up of coiled tubing that sits in cold water. Basically, the black tube you see in pic, it coiled inside the plastic container. I also placed those blue ice packs in between the coil to cool the steam.
> 
> Ideally, you'd want to use copper throughout to avoid plasticiser.
> 
> If you have any more questions let me know.


Aaah yea, Now I see..

Im guessing the copper pipe + ice wasnt enough to transform the vapor into liquid fast enough?
Have you tried skipping the middle part? just steam coming out?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, sure i just spent a few hundred in fittings that's being delivered today so i can link up that same area. Figures i'd wake up to a pic of the new block


We aim to troll please


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New EK-FB R4BE Monoblock released (retail in 3 weeks or so)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it does make sense that it would work better and overall cost less it's just ugly. It does take like $100 worth of fittings to link the board up.
> 
> How does the chip set block link with the CPU block?


It may cost less initially. But you'd be forced to buy a new combo block when you upgrade. I can see it making sense on an ITX board where you just can't fit two blocks. But to me that block just doesn't make sense.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We aim to troll please


Lollll. I actually spent like 1000 on the order when you include the Ek Ram Blocks, tubing, & measuring & cutting kits. Wish i knew that block was coming a few days ago =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It may cost less initially. But you'd be forced to buy a new combo block when you upgrade. I can see it making sense on an ITX board where you just can't fit two blocks. But to me that block just doesn't make sense.


It looks like it sits on top of the other blocks. So upgrading wouldn't change things, you just wouldn't have use for the top block anymore.

Obviously i can't tell for sure just from the pic. I definitely see the PCH Block from the full board block under there tho


----------



## skupples

I want to know how the connectivity works seems like it could be a weak point for high-pressure systemS


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Aaah yea, Now I see..
> 
> Im guessing the copper pipe + ice wasnt enough to transform the vapor into liquid fast enough?
> Have you tried skipping the middle part? just steam coming out?


Yes, effectively you want to give time for the steam to cool down and turn back to water again. It also helps to cool down the tube, as it will get real hot.


----------



## derickwm

People ask for more options, we provide more options. We won't be discontinuing the EK-FB Asus R4BE blocks, this'll just be an addition. Personally I'm looking forward to having it on my review bench for the simplicity.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> People ask for more options, we provide more options. We won't be discontinuing the EK-FB Asus R4BE blocks, this'll just be an addition. Personally I'm looking forward to having it on my review bench for the simplicity.


It must be disheartening to knock yourself out in an effort to supply what is, after all, a niche market and then have your efforts criticised.


----------



## derickwm

We're pretty use to it by now, yet products continue to fly off the shelves at a pace that production can barely keep up with so oh well.


----------



## szeged

Just because a few people don't like one product doesn't mean its the end of the world







I still love other ek products even if this one is a swing and a miss for me.


----------



## kpoeticg

Considering how much you can easily spend on angles and fittings just to link up that little area and make it look good, i definitely understand why they'd release a block for it. I think it's a good solution. If i hadn't already gone broke to link up that area, and they came out with a copper/plexi clean version, i might grab it


----------



## Jimhans1

I like the monoblock style. Even if just for the ease of tubing, but I also think in an Acetal top that will look wicked on a R4BE. Looking forward to some more pics of the 4 completed units! Thanks EK!!


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're pretty use to it by now, yet products continue to fly off the shelves at a pace that production can barely keep up with so oh well.


How come no integrated ram cooling? That would have been one epic massive easy to use all in one cooling solution.


----------



## derickwm

Olawd I wish. Would have been absolutely massive though and would have limited the market for the block even more so. Maybe someday


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that woulda been pretty damn sweet


----------



## Kenjiwing

I actually like the idea of the full board block. It started getting popular with the m-atx boards in the last cpl of months and im happy to see it with the full size boards.

Sure theree are disadvantages but thats the whole point.. its a choice







And more choices are always awesome!

Also with all the water talk.. I found a aquarium company that sells DI water by the gallon for like 35 cents


----------



## wermad

Wasn't it BP who brought out the first truly "full mother-board" block (MVI-I)?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> It must be disheartening to knock yourself out in an effort to supply what is, after all, a niche market and then have your efforts criticised.


You think this is bad? You should have seen the reaction to the CSQ (crop circles) design when it was first revealed. You would have thought the world was ending.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wasn't it BP who brought out the first truly "full mother-board" block (MVI-I)?


Yes, and no. The were the first, but not with that block. The first one was the block for the Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe.


----------



## stickg1

I think the full board block is sweet and as soon as someone makes one for a mATX board, that board and block will be on its way to my house!

Also the CSQ circles were pretty cool imo. Haters keep hatin'!

I'm not color blind, the rest of the world is color over-perceptive!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The res has been welded with the front panel and the Aquaero,there are some nice detail bits to come yet but you get the idea.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The res has been welded with the front panel and the Aquaero,there are some nice detail bits to come yet but you get the idea.


I really like the way that's coming along.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, and no. The were the first, but not with that block. The first one was the block for the Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe.


Cool beans








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think the full board block is sweet and as soon as someone makes one for a mATX board, that board and block will be on its way to my house!
> 
> Also the CSQ circles were pretty cool imo. Haters keep hatin'!
> 
> I'm not color blind, the rest of the world is color over-perceptive!


I wasn't a big fan of CSQ and hated the frosted look. After getting my Lightnings w/ EK blocks last fall, I grew fond of them, only the acetal ones. The frosted plexi is still hideous to me if im honest. Polishing does improve it. I guess the black acetal just makes the circles work. Enough that I changed all my blocks and pump top to acetal CSQ


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The res has been welded with the front panel and the Aquaero,there are some nice detail bits to come yet but you get the idea.


did you have the AQ6 face plate custom made as well?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> did you have the AQ6 face plate custom made as well?


The whole faceplate for the AQ6 and reservoir is custom work. I think the matching Aquasuite touchscreen bezel in the pedestal is also custom.

Here's the buildlog:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-custom-res-parts-have-arrived/


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The whole faceplate for the AQ6 and reservoir is custom work. I think the matching Aquasuite touchscreen bezel in the pedestal is also custom.
> 
> Here's the buildlog:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-custom-res-parts-have-arrived/


Interesting. I saw some one do something that is pretty much 100% identical, but his entire rig is customized by ColdZero so I thought it might have come from them.


----------



## VSG

So anyone else remember this render I had posted in this thread a while ago?



The guy is making it for real now and just got sponsored by EK (and rightly so!): http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=266632


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The whole faceplate for the AQ6 and reservoir is custom work. I think the matching Aquasuite touchscreen bezel in the pedestal is also custom.
> 
> Here's the buildlog:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-custom-res-parts-have-arrived/
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. *I saw some one do something that is pretty much 100% identical*, but his entire rig is customized by ColdZero so I thought it might have come from them.
Click to expand...

Where did you see this?


----------



## NOS---

My rig, H100i with stock fans, radiator in the case, fans are outside the case on top.

I had to cut the top, the grill was not a side by side fan setup. Cut the access panel for the motherboard backplate, (Still not big enough...) and an power cable access hole.

http://s741.photobucket.com/user/DirtryCommieGT/media/2014-03-18164845_zps0bf1c3c6.jpg.html

http://s741.photobucket.com/user/DirtryCommieGT/media/2014-03-18184149_zps47059631.jpg.html

I7 @ 3.3 Ghz, Corsair I-link at default fan settings, 52C max. 45C at performance settings.

Next I need to get that furnace GTX 480 under control. 92C max with default fan settings, fan at 70% all the time gets me 70-73C, but man is it loud.

Critiques?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Where did you see this?


He might be talking about the ColdZero TJ07 Front Panel



http://www.coldzero.eu/custom-requested-parts/1701-custom-front-panel-for-tj07.html


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Where did you see this?


eh, was more similar in my mind.

http://cdn.overclock.net/1/18/1861bdfd_image.jpeg


----------



## kpoeticg

That's still a sweet build tho. Nice pic!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's still a sweet build tho. Nice pic!!


He claims that he isn't affiliated with coldZero, but quite a few of those parts were not available/still aren't available through their marketplace.


----------



## kpoeticg

ColdZero does custom orders too. That Front Panel i posted is in the Custom Options section. I've never bought anything from him (yet) just cuz i'm real curious lately about whether or not i can do stuff on my own. I'm pretty sure if you have an idea though, he'll fab it for u

Edit: What build is that? I must've missed it in the RIVE BE Club thread


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So anyone else remember this render I had posted in this thread a while ago?
> 
> The guy is making it for real now and just got sponsored by EK (and rightly so!): http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=266632


I wish I could use claris CAD as well as these guys can, its unreal how real it looks!


----------



## skupples

It is only in the 900D club. The main part i'm talking about is the reverse ATX kit, which was JUST revealed when he first linked pics.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> eh, was more similar in my mind.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/1/18/1861bdfd_image.jpeg


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So anyone else remember this render I had posted in this thread a while ago?
> 
> 
> 
> The guy is making it for real now and just got sponsored by EK (and rightly so!): http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=266632


That render looks nice, I almost thought that was real! I like how the layout looks, same idea as MAXXplanck but still different enough to stand out on its own.


----------



## Cheesehead

Long time lurker....first time poster. Just did a major upgrade with more work to follow. Sleeving I think is my next major task.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Aquaero 6xt
Aquacomputer FlowMeter G1/4 USB ver *2
Aquacomputer Pump/Reservoir Combo *2

Ek LTX CPU waterblock
EK Monarch RamBlock
Ek R9-290x Actel *2
Ek CoolStream PE 360 Triple *4
Ek Fittings

CoolerMaster Haf Stacker 935
CoolerMaster Haf Stacker 915F*2


----------



## WiSK

Apogee Drive II, with EK-DDC Heatsink Housing.

Lower profile obviously, but I'm not sure it looks any better. Will use black screws and sleeve the wires. Any opinions before I commit?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Apogee Drive II, with EK-DDC Heatsink Housing.
> 
> Lower profile obviously, but I'm not sure it looks any better. Will use black screws and sleeve the wires. Any opinions before I commit?


I like it with the EK heatsink! But I'm biased towards EK already!









Is that gonna go in an SFF system??


----------



## lowfat

Looks much better than the stock one.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheesehead*
> 
> Long time lurker....first time poster. Just did a major upgrade with more work to follow. Sleeving I think is my next major task.


Nice! Good luck with sleeving









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I like it with the EK heatsink! But I'm biased towards EK already!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that gonna go in an SFF system??


Yep, was thinking of doing this in both the Compact Splash and the M1. I'll have to paint it white for the Splash build, not sure which paint is good on heatsinks, maybe just household radiator paint.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks much better than the stock one.


Alrighty then


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Nice! Good luck with sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, was thinking of doing this in both the Compact Splash and the M1. I'll have to paint it white for the Splash build, not sure which paint is good on heatsinks, maybe just household radiator paint.
> Alrighty then


Get some high temp engine paint. Works great!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Get some high temp engine paint. Works great!!


Agreed. VHT Engine Paint. That's what i used for my EK DDC Heatsinks


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Agreed. VHT Engine Paint. That's what i used for my EK DDC Heatsinks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What was the quadruple pump top out of stock so you settled for the triple??









That's awesome!


----------



## kpoeticg

LOLLLLL

Yeah, the head pressure found a few leaks last week and slowed my build down a little bit.

It's gonna be a fairly restrictive loop when it's all finished, and can't fit D5's, so figured 35x3 would be good


----------



## stickg1

I can only imagine, with my simple two rad, GPU/CPU block loop this MCP355 at full speed looks like a pressure washer when I'm filling the loop. So glad I ponied up the dough for the Poweradjust2, at around 75% it's perfect. Obviously I would have been better off with a PWM pump, but I already had the 355 and it's been sleeved, the wires shortened, probably could only get $50 for it if I'm lucky so I would had to spend that $40 anyway to get the PWM.


----------



## kpoeticg

My original temporary setup just to test my board was Apogee Drive II, 360, Res, Aquacomputer High Flow Flowmeter.

With the 35x running at 100% i was only getting 0.8 GPM. I woulda been ok with that if it was my complete loop. But my permanent plans are a Supremacy, RIVE BE PCH & VRM Blocks, 2 x4 Ram Blocks, 3 AC 290x Blocks, & 4 Rads

So definitely felt like i needed more umphhhh in my loop


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New EK-FB R4BE Monoblock released (retail in 3 weeks or so)


If I get any leaks from my CPU block before I flip the switch on my new build, I'm buying that bad boy.... Although, it kind of takes the fun out of designing a water cooling loop because it doesn't have as many entry/exit ports to connect soft tubes or acrylic to. Just the two ports In the CPU area. Sure it's fewer fittings and tubing, but it limits your loop design. Still, I'll be on the look out for this one. I wonder what price it'll be going for.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheesehead*
> 
> Long time lurker....first time poster. Just did a major upgrade with more work to follow. Sleeving I think is my next major task.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquaero 6xt
> Aquacomputer FlowMeter G1/4 USB ver *2
> Aquacomputer Pump/Reservoir Combo *2
> 
> Ek LTX CPU waterblock
> EK Monarch RamBlock
> Ek R9-290x Actel *2
> Ek CoolStream PE 360 Triple *4
> Ek Fittings
> 
> CoolerMaster Haf Stacker 935
> CoolerMaster Haf Stacker 915F*2


I love the color of that dye. How's the Stacker treating you?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My original temporary setup just to test my board was Apogee Drive II, 360, Res, Aquacomputer High Flow Flowmeter.
> 
> With the 35x running at 100% i was only getting 0.8 GPM. I woulda been ok with that if it was my complete loop. But my permanent plans are a Supremacy, RIVE BE PCH & VRM Blocks, 2 x4 Ram Blocks, 3 AC 290x Blocks, & 4 Rads
> 
> So definitely felt like i needed more umphhhh in my loop


Cue wermad posting about his one mcp35x that handles all of his blocks and rads just fine









I'm not knocking either of you guys by the way









Jeffinslaw


----------



## skupples

That single 35x has to basically trickle water out of his loop. Speaking from experience on how my mcp35x2 functions on one pump buuut flow rates don't mean a whole lot above w/e value.


----------



## askala2

2 K|NGP|N in Water


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My original temporary setup just to test my board was Apogee Drive II, 360, Res, Aquacomputer High Flow Flowmeter.
> 
> With the 35x running at 100% i was only getting 0.8 GPM. I woulda been ok with that if it was my complete loop. But my permanent plans are a Supremacy, RIVE BE PCH & VRM Blocks, 2 x4 Ram Blocks, 3 AC 290x Blocks, & 4 Rads
> 
> So definitely felt like i needed more umphhhh in my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cue wermad posting about his one mcp35x that handles all of his blocks and rads just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not knocking either of you guys by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

"Just Fine" can definitely mean different things to different people though. I'm sure my 35x woulda handled my loop just fine if i didn't have an Aquaero 6 & Flowmeter attached









Werm's done enough builds to know what he's happy with. I feel like newer people like me sweat the stats alot more, and people that have already been through the "New & Shiny" phase don't worry about it as much.

I'm sure a single pump woulda kept my system cool, but with all my restrictive blocks, i probly woulda been maxing out at like 0.3GPM though

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That single 35x has to basically trickle water out of his loop. Speaking from experience on how my mcp35x2 functions on one pump buuut flow rates don't mean a whole lot above w/e value.


Exactly. It's the OCN OCD. The more you learn, the broker you become


----------



## skupples

I like the idea of triple redundancy, specially since 2x of my 3 pumps are over a year old now.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Hmm, my single D5 is coming up on 2 years old. Should I be concerned?


----------



## lowfat

Flow rate is overrated anyways. A single DDC3 is enough for any loop.









In other news, I just bought my first D5 in about 11 years.









As for paint, Rustoleum Professional flat black > *. Best coverage of any spray paint that I have used.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-65-2.jpg.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Hmm, my single D5 is coming up on 2 years old. Should I be concerned?


No. Start worrying in another 3.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Hmm, my single D5 is coming up on 2 years old. Should I be concerned?


Concerned about what?

Edit: low-fat just ninja'd me... never mind.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That's what I figured but you never know. I wish I would've gone for a redundant dual D5 setup back when I designed this loop but my pump has never given me any problems whatsoever so hopefully she'll hang in there until I overhaul the loop with dual DDC's...


----------



## kyismaster

i feel like getting a 35X when my pump quits


----------



## skupples

liable to start a war with all this DDC love.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i love my 'old' tiny ddc's.


----------



## skupples

By the way, that stuff that was growing in my reservoir disappeared 24 hours after turning up my pump speeds. That makes me think my additive levels are weak, as even slow moving reservoir water shouldn't do that.


----------



## kpoeticg

Weird. "Sounds" like good news =)


----------



## skupples

Yeah idk... I'll be giving everything a really good flush before I do the case swap. Might try to hook up the sump pump to the case for flushing. Hopefully that filter hasn't gone bad from sitting damp & stagnant.

STH-10 is OTW. @Strong Island 1 is a pimp!



I might have to get off of my lazy arse & actually do some custom sleeving this time around.

I wonder if I could polish that XSPC top to an even shinier luster.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> By the way, that stuff that was growing in my reservoir disappeared 24 hours after turning up my pump speeds. That makes me think my additive levels are weak, as even slow moving reservoir water shouldn't do that.


I was thinking running distilled only & replaced it regularly since it's cheap. Seeing that you have *unknown* growth in your loop, I'll stick with Pastel.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I was thinking running distilled only & replaced it regularly since it's cheap. Seeing that you have *unknown* growth in your loop, I'll stick with Pastel.


You definitely want to @least use an anti-bacterial/growth additive.


----------



## kpoeticg

Skupples, you should always let that stuff dry off before you put it away.

I give it like 2 days to make sure everything's bone dry before i put it in the bucket and close the lid for storage. If you've been storing your filter wet, that could possibly be the source of the algae...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Skupples, you should always let that stuff dry off before you put it away.
> 
> I give it like 2 days to make sure everything's bone dry before i put it in the bucket and close the lid for storage. If you've been storing your filter wet, that could possibly be the source of the algae...


I have only used the filter one time. Did all my flushing, then put it away. I couldn't even get the damned thing open when using the provided tool. Guess i'll have to run out & get a new filter.


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, the top just screws off on mine. Never had an issue.

I use my Datavac to help dry it off. I usually take my cap off and wring out the filter ~halfway through flushing, then go again


----------



## gdubc

Have you all noticed *these*? Very nice. Would look great with a matching full board kit for the rampage be.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Damn, the top just screws off on mine. Never had an issue.
> 
> I use my Datavac to help dry it off. I usually take my cap off and wring out the filter ~halfway through flushing, then go again


also, hair dryers are useful for speeding this stuff up too.


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't think i've used anything besides my Datavac for drying ANYTHING since i bought it LOLLL

<3 my Datavac


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I too am going to have to do some cable sleeving to measured lengths I'm afraid. Who's the best vendor around here for custom cabling? Would rather just pay for them I think...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I too am going to have to do some cable sleeving to measured lengths I'm afraid. Who's the best vendor around here for custom cabling? Would rather just pay for them I think...


Have you tried @Lutro0 ??


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I too am going to have to do some cable sleeving to measured lengths I'm afraid. Who's the best vendor around here for custom cabling? Would rather just pay for them I think...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Have you tried @Lutro0 ??


I know right, if you havent seen lutro0's you haven't lived lol. those perfect rainbows.

http://www.overclock.net/g/a/30521/lutro0-customs-sleeving-gallery/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Have you tried @Lutro0 ??


+1

I've not used him myself, but Lutro0 is legend. I have spent a small fortune from his shop on various items, connectors, sleeving, heatshrink, combs, etc. Also I've heard tell that 'Ensourced' is another good one for custom sleeving work. I have heard of both, and I suspect that the same is probably true of anyone else doing similar, that they can get pretty backed up sometimes and take a while to get a custom sleeving job done.

That said, I prefer to do it all myself. It's not easy, or cheap, it's very time consuming, I make a lot of mistakes, and though I've gotten to be pretty good if I say so myself at doing full sets of custom length sleeved PSU cables and custom sleeved fan splitter cables, I have yet to accomplish the perfection in any single sleeving job that I see others like Lutro0 are able to do all the time, but in the end it's still one of my favorite things about a build that I did all myself, and I really do like not having to cram or coil up extra lengths of cables. It just looks so much better to me to have everything the exact length it needs to be, even if I'm often the only one who ever sees or appreciates it. lol


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> +1
> 
> I've not used him myself, but Lutro0 is legend. I have spent a small fortune from his shop on various items, connectors, sleeving, heatshrink, combs, etc. Also I've heard tell that 'Ensourced' is another good one for custom sleeving work. I have heard of both, and I suspect that the same is probably true of anyone else doing similar, that they can get pretty backed up sometimes and take a while to get a custom sleeving job done.
> 
> That said, I prefer to do it all myself. It's not easy, or cheap, it's very time consuming, I make a lot of mistakes, and though I've gotten to be pretty good if I say so myself at doing full sets of custom length sleeved PSU cables and custom sleeved fan splitter cables, I have yet to accomplish the perfection in any single sleeving job that I see others like Lutro0 are able to do all the time, but in the end it's still one of my favorite things about a build that I did all myself, and I really do like not having to cram or coil up extra lengths of cables. It just looks so much better to me to have everything the exact length it needs to be, even if I'm often the only one who ever sees or appreciates it. lol


whew.... I did this too, 800 ft of cable on my old un modular psu..... that took many sleepless nights, especially me doing it with paracord...... atleast plastic sleeving holds shape... paracord is madness.
Paracord looks amazing when perfected, but i can tell you you'll end up going to plastic sleeving LOL.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> By the way, that stuff that was growing in my reservoir disappeared 24 hours after turning up my pump speeds. That makes me think my additive levels are weak, as even slow moving reservoir water shouldn't do that.


It knows you have seen it and has moved to your radiator where it can get enough heat and nutrients to build its strength up for a counter attack.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

i love my chinese made pump lol its more power than the mcp 35x and the d5 lol.. its not pretty though but shes more than enough for the job...

http://www.lightobject.com/Solar-water-pump-40Lm-635GPH-DC24V-High-Temperature-100-39C-P570.aspx

for those who are curious


----------



## SwishaMane

That is the UGLIEST pump Ive ever seen. LOL


----------



## fast_fate

S_alive_8


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i love my chinese made pump lol its more power than the mcp 35x and the d5 lol.. its not pretty though but shes more than enough for the job...
> 
> http://www.lightobject.com/Solar-water-pump-40Lm-635GPH-DC24V-High-Temperature-100-39C-P570.aspx
> 
> for those who are curious


Hmmm, Its not exactly cheap though and the life span is only rated to 2/5 of the Laing pumps. It seems like about the same as a D5 strong. Nearly the same pressure and they both only make max pressure at 24V.


----------



## Anoxy

So I switched my cards to serial for my rebuild, and GPU1 is running nearly 10C hotter than GPU2.....what gives?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> That is the UGLIEST pump Ive ever seen. LOL


lol yea i know but shes how to make wata!!!


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hmmm, Its not exactly cheap though and the life span is only rated to 2/5 of the Laing pumps. It seems like about the same as a D5 strong. Nearly the same pressure and they both only make max pressure at 24V.


had her for 2 years now







running on 24v 30% speed... lets see how much more she can go!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I switched my cards to serial for my rebuild, and GPU1 is running nearly 10C hotter than GPU2.....what gives?


Flow rate is too low,air bubble....the list is long.
The primary card is normally warmer anyway,not by 10c tho.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Updates for everyone that isn't following my temp fiasco that I was going through.

I built up big brother, and was still getting 80+ on the CPU when I was stressing it and it fluctuated ALOT while Folding... Well, the suggestion was to delid.. I decided that RMA would suite me best, except that I would be offline for two weeks on one of my babies... so, I went ahead and pulled up the Vice, Wood and Hammer then gave the CPU a whack or four... I was shaking like a leaf in a hurricane after, because there were dents in PCB from the Vice...



A little talking from the Delidding team said that it should be safe.. So, I cleaned it up, removed all of the epoxy from the outside, used the Artic Clean to remove the old thermal paste, slapped some EctoTherm from EK on the Die, placed the IHS, Slapped some Ceramique 2 on the IHS and Block, then gave him the button press that brought Big Brother back to life...

The result with the temporary Ectoherm, as I am waiting on Coollaboratory Pro to arrive, is that I dropped 20 degrees celcius off the top... I will be trying the EK Naked Ivy Add-On, and removing the IHS completely when it arrives and attempting to pull the temps down further, then aim for the 5Ghz finally.. I have also considered lapping the IHS, but I would have to order the sandpaper and wait for all of it to arrive... or, just use the CLP on the bare Die and block, and just order another block to replace this one after the CLP is smothered on it lightly. So, I am going Bare Die with CLP to the block and will get another block later if need be.

Sorry for such a long story, but it only took 45 minutes after getting the CPU out to the time that I had hit it, come back, and started reinstalling. Next, the 3770k in Little brother goes under the hammer... That is for late to mid may time frame though.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Anyone ever try installing a check valve to help prime the system?


----------



## Mydog

Working on moving from one case to another but it's slow progress here.
Not using acrylic pipes as I need my QDC's so it's more of an "old" school build

This is what it looked like before, not pretty but with good performance.



This is what it looks like so far


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> It knows you have seen it and has moved to your radiator where it can get enough heat and nutrients to build its strength up for a counter attack.
































Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Anyone ever try installing a check valve to help prime the system?


I believe IT Diva has a guide on using Schrader valves n what not to dry leak test.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Anyone ever try installing a check valve to help prime the system?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe IT Diva has a guide on using Schrader valves n what not to dry leak test.
Click to expand...

If that's what you meant, for using compressed air to leak test instead of putting down paper towels and crossing your fingers, here is Darlene's (IT Diva) post:
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480_20#post_21458126

And here's a similar earlier post from B Negative:
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56240_20#post_21445206

After seeing both of their posts, I did something similar but simpler than they suggested. I ordered some 1/4 NPT threaded Schrader valves and a 30 PSI gauge of eBay and fitted them into Koolance G 1/4" Male to NPT 1/4" Female adapters I got from FrozenCPU so they can be screwed into any available port in my loop. It works great! I pump it up to ~8-9 PSI and let the loop sit to see if there's any leakdown at all. Here I am doing a leak-test with them screwed into two top fill ports...



A heads-up though, those Koolance adapters suck. IT Diva tried to warn me they were junk, but I really didn't want to believe they could be that bad until I got them and found out for myself. In the end after several attempts, a bit of overtightening combined with adding more teflon tape than should ever have been necessary, I got the valve and gauge screwed into them leak-free and they are never coming apart. If that hadn't worked I was going break out the oxy-acetyl torch and braze them together.


----------



## szeged

Should have put some blue magic pipe dope on the threads, leaks solved instantly lol.


----------



## Angrychair

mm that pipe dope


----------



## szeged

Rofl


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Should have put some blue magic pipe dope on the threads, leaks solved instantly lol.


My pipe dope is not blue....

As for air testing,not used water in a leak test for a few years now. Can't see me going back to messy water ever,im surprised more don't do it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My pipe dope is not blue....
> 
> As for air testing,not used water in a leak test for a few years now. Can't see me going back to messy water ever,im surprised more don't do it.


I would do it if i could use a bycycle pump.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> S_alive_8
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmm I'm liking it.


----------



## stickg1

Pipe dope? Sharing is caring guise!


----------



## kpoeticg

I HAVE TIGERS BLOOD!!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My pipe dope is not blue....
> 
> As for air testing,not used water in a leak test for a few years now. Can't see me going back to messy water ever,im surprised more don't do it.
> 
> 
> 
> I would do it if i could use a bycycle pump.
Click to expand...

You can,that's why we use Schrader valves....I don't,I use compressor but I don't expect people to have a compressor laying around.
You need a Schrader valve,then a stop **** then a 1/4 fitting to attach to the open port. You only need to use the fill port rather two ports that was used in the post above (good use of the two ports tho.)


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Pipe dope? Sharing is caring guise!


https://www.etnasupply.com/images/product-detail/12535.jpg

Only thing we use at work now lop, if it still leaks with this on the threads, burn the building because it's filled with Satan's magic.


----------



## chino1974

Guys I have a question for the water cooling Gods. Has anyone ever tried sandwiching two rads together? I was thinking of tryinnto install 2-360's with 3 sets of fans. Basically fans-rad-fans-rad-fans. Would that be ok or would it hurt performance ?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah it's been tested. Not recommended

Martin's done a review about it on his site


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I have a question for the water cooling Gods. Has anyone ever tried sandwiching two rads together? I was thinking of tryinnto install 2-360's with 3 sets of fans. Basically fans-rad-fans-rad-fans. Would that be ok or would it hurt performance ?


Here is a review with sandwiched rads;

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?220874-More-Radiator-Sandwich-testing


----------



## kpoeticg

Anybody here put Dbl-Sided Trident-X's under water before?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Anybody here put Dbl-Sided Trident-X's under water before?


You took off the heatsink and added the plates yet?


----------



## kpoeticg

I took off the heatsinks, but the heatsinks weren't all that came off the pcb









2 of the sticks lost a memory chip. I put some flux on each side of the breaks and reflowed them with my reflow station (gun not oven), but i feel like i'd be crazy to test them on my RIVE BE/4930k


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I took off the heatsinks, but the heatsinks weren't all that came off the pcb


Did you heat them up before prying open the heatsinks?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah of course. I heated them up and was actually really careful. That's why i'm asking who else has done it with dbl sided Trident's.

I can use all 4 sticks to mock up my loop, and the 2 good sticks for testing my rig, but i'm definitely gonna order a new kit to replace it

Just wondering if i shoulda just soaked em in alcohol instead. I definitely heated them up a decent amount and pryed carefully. The front plate came off real easy. The back plate was the problem on both the sticks

The memory chips came off extremely easy. I wasn't expecting that!!!

The memory chips on the back side came off as easily as the heatsink did on the front


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flow rate is too low,air bubble....the list is long.
> The primary card is normally warmer anyway,not by 10c tho.


Ahh ha! I had just clean installed windows and reset my BIOS so my pump was running at like 1200rpm by default. I'll up to 60% and see if that helps.


----------



## Ragsters

Looking into watercooling my ram. What height extension do I need on my Supremacy CPU block to match the height of the Monarch block. I want to plumb the CPU block and Ram block together using two 90s. Check out my sig rig picture for visual.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flow rate is too low,air bubble....the list is long.
> The primary card is normally warmer anyway,not by 10c tho.
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh ha! I had just clean installed windows and reset my BIOS so my pump was running at like 1200rpm by default. I'll up to 60% and see if that helps.
Click to expand...











Report back?


----------



## fast_fate

Anybody know which (if any) 420 rads are 10mm to 15 mm shorter than the Alphcool UT60 420's ??

The UT60 will fit in the S8 ped but some (very) minor mods are required.
The UT60 rad itself is exactly the same length as the inside of the S8 ped....(I mean within 1mm the same)
but can't fit the plugs on each end of the chambers so would have to drill few holes and fit the plugs from outside once the rad is fitted.
Also the rad and therefore fans are is not quite centered, which a shorter rad would sort out.
and the Flexi-Bay pegs might need cutting off if I got another AC UT60.
I'ld rather buy 2 x new shorter rads than one more which isn't quite the right size.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Alpenfohn.

I approve this post.

XSPC tend to have smaller end tanks.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Anybody know which (if any) 420 rads are 10mm to 15 mm shorter than the Alphcool UT60 420's ??
> 
> The UT60 will fit in the S8 ped but some (very) minor mods are required.
> The UT60 rad itself is exactly the same length as the inside of the S8 ped....(I mean within 1mm the same)
> but can't fit the plugs on each end of the chambers so would have to drill few holes and fit the plugs from outside once the rad is fitted.
> Also the rad and therefore fans are is not quite centered, which a shorter rad would sort out.
> and the Flexi-Bay pegs might need cutting off if I got another AC UT60.
> I'ld rather buy 2 x new shorter rads than one more which isn't quite the right size.


If the specs on the UT60-420mm are correct, it's 468mm long, all of the black ice GT rads are 460mm, so 8mm shorter. There are quite a few 420's at the 460mm length, but I couldn't find any that were less than that.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Alpenfohn.
> 
> I approve this post.
> 
> XSPC tend to have smaller end tanks.


^ This

420 UT60 is 468x144x60mm
EX420 is 460x143x36


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah of course. I heated them up and was actually really careful. That's why i'm asking who else has done it with dbl sided Trident's.
> 
> I can use all 4 sticks to mock up my loop, and the 2 good sticks for testing my rig, but i'm definitely gonna order a new kit to replace it
> 
> Just wondering if i shoulda just soaked em in alcohol instead. I definitely heated them up a decent amount and pryed carefully. The front plate came off real easy. The back plate was the problem on both the sticks
> 
> The memory chips came off extremely easy. I wasn't expecting that!!!
> 
> The memory chips on the back side came off as easily as the heatsink did on the front


I'm not sure what you mean, but I think I have done what you are asking, I but EK monarch x2 modules on my Trident Ram, I used a hairdryer for a minute or so to get the plates of the RAM modules, I just stick a credit card between the side plates and the ram module and ripped the side plates off.

You can check and see some pictures of the process in my build log, also I used this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcAcIcv1iVI Ronsanut youtube video to guide me.

I had no problems and my RAM modules are still on my sticks, I haven't tested the ram yet tho after placing the Monarch modules on.


----------



## Ragsters

I noticed that the EK PE rads are pretty short.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Alpenfohn.
> 
> I approve this post.
> 
> XSPC tend to have smaller end tanks.


Other than the AX series- I found it out the hard way but made it fit in my 900D nonetheless.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Alpenfohn.
> *Red or Whites would have been nice - but orange is what I got.*
> *They seem like might be difficult to take apart for panting the plastic orange trim, don't suppose you (or anybody) else tried to disassemble one - tips ??*
> 
> I approve this post.
> *Why thank you Sir*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC tend to have smaller end tanks.


Cheers. I'll look into them.
The UT60 is 468mm

So many replies - cheers fellas


----------



## wermad

Remember that 140mm rads may have different fan spacing. According to Alphacool, my spacing is 15mm between fans (though I think its closer to 16mm) while HardwareLabs uses 20mm in their rads (leaves a gap







).


----------



## JottaD

working on my front panel


----------



## Cheesehead

Reply Too Mr357:

Stacker is working great. I do wish though that there was more room on the backside for the added cabling that usually comes with watercooling. My next project....sleeving might clear up though. And it is quite heavy too.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheesehead*
> 
> Reply Too Mr357:
> 
> Stacker is working great. I do wish though that there was more room on the backside for the added cabling that usually comes with watercooling. My next project....sleeving might clear up though. And it is quite heavy too.


I did a build in that case that was taken to our CES booth this year. The case is enormous, but Cooler Master should have done a little more work with the cable management. It has tremendous cooling potential though, particularly for the cost of it.



Picture or it didn't happen


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheesehead*
> 
> Reply Too Mr357:
> 
> Stacker is working great. I do wish though that there was more room on the backside for the added cabling that usually comes with watercooling. My next project....sleeving might clear up though. And it is quite heavy too.


If I designed a case it would have at least 2-3 inches of space in the backside. That for me is always the biggest pain of building a rig.


----------



## Cheesehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> If I designed a case it would have at least 2-3 inches of space in the backside. That for me is always the biggest pain of building a rig.


Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I did a build in that case that was taken to our CES booth this year. The case is enormous, but Cooler Master should have done a little more work with the cable management. It has tremendous cooling potential though, particularly for the cost of it.
> 
> 
> 
> agreed totally. For a novice like me this case is the ticket. The one other thing too that I have learned reading about all things aquacomputer is that aquabus is picky on length of cable due to resistance. Which makes cabling again that much more difficult. But the system is working great no leaks from day 1.
Click to expand...


----------



## canada2005

A little update to my TJ11.

New tubing Primo ADV LRT and some different colors.


----------



## wermad

That's impressive


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Double post


----------



## VSG

If you are having the GPU mounted upright, that will be a darn thick desk. Maybe use a 90 degree riser?

Edit: Post 3000, Woohoo!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you are having the GPU mounted upright, that will be a darn thick desk. Maybe use a 90 degree riser?
> 
> Edit: Post 3000, Woohoo!


Yep, thick desk indeed. Will be 8.5 inches with the added space to hide wires, plus the glass top.

I was thinking of that, but the rads are pretty thick, and I'm using 2 GPUs.


----------



## VSG

You can mount the rads with the fans facing up and down and maybe a set of fans underneath the desk for better air flow and saving an inch of desk space.


----------



## Ovrclck

I finally got to unboxing my 360 monstas and noticed this weird mark. What the heck? Is this normal? My other 360 and 240 is fine.









Edit: seems that it was done at the factory. PPCS is hooking me up.









Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

Looks to be purely superficial. Like some one dropped it before it got powder coated. Either way, PPC will save the day.


----------



## Kimir

Got my SMA8 today, started to put things in.

For comparison purpose, Fractal R4 next to the SMA8, I'll have plenty of space for everything, might need to change my desk tbh.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I finally got to unboxing my 360 monstas and noticed this weird mark. What the heck? Is this normal? My other 360 and 240 is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: seems that it was done at the factory. PPCS is hooking me up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


looks like a patch job over a hole.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> working on my front panel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


"I'm sorry Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that."


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Looks to be purely superficial. Like some one dropped it before it got powder coated. Either way, PPC will save the day.


Yes sir









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I finally got to unboxing my 360 monstas and noticed this weird mark. What the heck? Is this normal? My other 360 and 240 is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: seems that it was done at the factory. PPCS is hooking me up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> looks like a patch job over a hole.
Click to expand...

Luckily it's going into the pedestal. OCD conquered for now.









Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Naz

My 2nd watercooled rig. Pictures taken with my phone, so please pardon the crap quality.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> "I'm sorry Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that."


Haha, I was just about to post the same exact thing! That is a pretty epic looking front panel!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> working on my front panel


What are those things with the red LEDs and who makes them??


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> What are those things with the red LEDs and who makes them??


HAL 9000


----------



## kpoeticg

Those are the Aquacomputer Filters. I don't think they come with LED's though. I think they have an extra port on them that you can put an LED Plug


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Those are the Aquacomputer Filters. I don't think they come with LED's though. I think they have an extra port on them that you can put an LED Plug


Cool beans, thanks KP!! +Rep!


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## kyismaster

http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-rx-series/rx480-quad-fan-radiator-v2 get this not the EX


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Spoiler quoted pics please.


----------



## kpoeticg

The EX is the smallest profile rad that i know of. That's why i bought mine. It's shorter than any rad i can think of on both height & length


----------



## Neo Zuko

The new black ice nemesis rads are short looking.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> HAL 9000


LOL. Exactly my first thought too


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> LOL. Exactly my first thought too


My wife told me that look like terminator eyes


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> What are those things with the red LEDs and who makes them??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Those are the Aquacomputer Filters. I don't think they come with LED's though. I think they have an extra port on them that you can put an LED Plug


Yes they are aquacomputer filters and on the back I just had a Illumination-insert G1/8 incl. gasket with a 5mm red led


----------



## Drifbau5

Quick question. I can't remember if i did this last time but am I supposed to unplug the SATA power cables from my SSD when filling my loop if I'm using the same computers PSU to start the pump?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> Quick question. I can't remember if i did this last time but am I supposed to unplug the SATA power cables from my SSD when filling my loop if I'm using the same computers PSU to start the pump?


Yes, you should unplug EVERYTHING but your pump, fans are ok, but the rest of the system should have ZERO power


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> Quick question. I can't remember if i did this last time but am I supposed to unplug the SATA power cables from my SSD when filling my loop if I'm using the same computers PSU to start the pump?


it is highly recommended to jump start the power supply and only have your pump hooked up to it

Just stick a paper clip into the green wire and any black.


----------



## Drifbau5

Thanks guys!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bugger...the sticker sheet is frosted......



In other news,the res has been filled to the brim and,in a unscientific test,left outside for 24 hrs in the sun so it gets heated and cooled for some thermal cycle testing.
Glad to say it didnt leak at all and I am happy for it to go in.










A good shot showing the 5mm thickness of the front panel.










Very happy with the result.


----------



## wermad

Found a bunch of Alphacool gold stickers. Not sure if I should use them


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Found a bunch of Alphacool gold stickers. Not sure if I should use them


Nooooope


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Nooooope


But I get more points in 3d13 FS









I'm breaking down my loop this weekend to swap out cpu's. There's a few little details I want to finish I left out previously.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Nooooope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I get more points in 3d13 FS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm breaking down my loop this weekend to swap out cpu's. There's a few little details I want to finish I left out previously.
Click to expand...

Those are pity points,you dont want them.....

Alphacool give you all those stickers to hide the massive dents and general cockups they make.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those are pity points,you dont want them.....
> 
> Alphacool give you all those stickers to hide the massive dents and general cockups they make.


Mine were all clean and solid. One incident doesn't describe the whole book mr Neg







. Doesn't AC controller have fitting issues? Don't see much blasting coming from you on that one sir


----------



## Keyzman

Still WIP but main work is done


----------



## snef

I love it,
clean
and nice pics


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keyzman*
> 
> Still WIP but main work is done


That is one clean and shinny looking build. Nice job.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keyzman*
> 
> Still WIP but main work is done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! Gorgeous there sir







. Fittings almost look like laser guns shooting beams


----------



## szeged

very nice! the cables look excellent. Mind if i hire you to come move mine into place for me ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those are pity points,you dont want them.....
> 
> Alphacool give you all those stickers to hide the massive dents and general cockups they make.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine were all clean and solid. One incident doesn't describe the whole book mr Neg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Doesn't AC controller have fitting issues? Don't see much blasting coming from you on that one sir
Click to expand...

The AC controller doesnt have issues,the Caselabs case has fitting issues with it.
It works in all other cases.

So Ner.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The AC controller doesnt have issues,the Caselabs case has fitting issues with it.
> It works in all other cases.
> 
> So Ner.


According to CL, its AC that has fitting issues. But I understand the defense on them from you


----------



## szeged

fan controllers? pssh i dont need software, i just leave the fans unplugged and spin them manually depending on how fast i need them to go. #fingersofagod


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> fan controllers? pssh i dont need software, i just leave the fans unplugged and spin them manually depending on how fast i need them to go. #fingersofagod


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The AC controller doesnt have issues,the Caselabs case has fitting issues with it.
> It works in all other cases.
> 
> So Ner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to CL, its AC that has fitting issues. But I understand the defense on them from you
Click to expand...

How is it AC's fault when it fits in every other case in the world but not certain CL cases,how can that be AC's fault?
Im not a fanboi Werm (D5's excepted of course),lighten up and enjoy the humour.


----------



## skupples

wut? Aquaero doesn't fit in caselabs?


----------



## szeged

dont you remember luna having so much trouble fitting his? it took him like a week of posting pics lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

They released a bracket kit for it,it is only certain CL cases,it fitted in the S3 just fine.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> dont you remember luna having so much trouble fitting his? it took him like a week of posting pics lol.


Yup. Both XNine and KevnCL said its not a CL issue as their cases have been manufactured to the same specs for a few years now. I was under the impression it was a CL issues but after Luna's thread and the CL reps giving their take, its definitely an AC issue. I had no issues with my NZXT Mix2 controller fitting in several different cases included two different CL cases.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How is it AC's fault when it fits in every other case in the world but not certain CL cases,how can that be AC's fault?
> Im not a fanboi Werm (D5's excepted of course),lighten up and enjoy the humour.


When its only AC that has the issue and every other controller does fine, its an AC issue. They didn't research it properly and take into account CL. Nuff said, Yarp









Haha, BNeg doesn't like it his own treatment. Yarp again


----------



## szeged

I've never used a fan controller, as I said before, all about the manual spins


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I've never used a fan controller, as I said before, all about the manual spins


Naw dude, blowing into the fans is what gets the best results.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Naw dude, blowing into the fans is what gets the best results.


I tried that, ended up spraying a wad of spit all over the gpu and killed everything!


----------



## wermad

Sold my old case to family member and helped him setup his new rig last night. He was overjoyed on how much better aftermarket fans and a controller helped his acoustics. Fella was running all his fans 100% of the psu and it was hella noisy and uber dusty. Hsf had some caked dust on it (







). He thought the whole thing wasn't working as we couldn't here the fans over my 75G aquarium







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> dont you remember luna having so much trouble fitting his? it took him like a week of posting pics lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup. Both XNine and KevnCL said its not a CL issue as their cases have been manufactured to the same specs for a few years now. I was under the impression it was a CL issues but after Luna's thread and the CL reps giving their take, its definitely an AC issue. I had no issues with my NZXT Mix2 controller fitting in several different cases included two different CL cases.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How is it AC's fault when it fits in every other case in the world but not certain CL cases,how can that be AC's fault?
> Im not a fanboi Werm (D5's excepted of course),lighten up and enjoy the humour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When its only AC that has the issue and every other controller does fine, its an AC issue. They didn't research it properly and take into account CL. Nuff said, Yarp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, BNeg doesn't like it his own treatment. Yarp again
Click to expand...

Except the AC controller came long _before_ the CL case,the timeline does not back up your derp.








You are completely ignoring the fact that its only a few CL cases that suffer with this too,I am liking your blind faith when a manufacturer says "Its not our fault" tho.....

You are fighting as losing corner there........


----------



## PinzaC55

£5 please.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQFKtI6gn9Y


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Except the AC controller came long _before_ the CL case,the timeline does not back up your derp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are completely ignoring the fact that its only a few CL cases that suffer with this too.
> 
> You are fighting as losing corner there........


Didn't the fix came from AC? AC issue, nuff said. Someone not happy when their sponsors are in the bad rolleyes.gif, ? .Yet they talk smack constantly about other companies thumbsdownsmileyanim.gif

C'est fini monsieur!

edit:

AC should have done their home work better wtih the AC6. Don't care how long they've made the old model. Luna had issues w/ the AC6 if I recall. Still, AC issue imho. Nuff said. Don't like it when your sponsors create errors,yet you like to bash consistently other companies. Time to maybe give the yapping a rest if its not productive?


----------



## szeged

Gaiz....gaiz...stahp.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Except the AC controller came long _before_ the CL case,the timeline does not back up your derp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are completely ignoring the fact that its only a few CL cases that suffer with this too.
> 
> You are fighting as losing corner there........
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't the fix came from AC? AC issue, nuff said. Someone not happy when their sponsors are in the bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , ? .Yet they talk smack constantly about other companies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> C'est fini monsieur!
Click to expand...

Im not sponsored by Aquacomputer. Never have been. You also seem to forget the recent slagging AC got from me for the leaky Titan blocks....slip your mind did it in your righteous frenzy?

You are laboring under a false assumption.

I talk smack about ALL companies,dont think i singled Alphacool out...although they are the worst for QC issues along with Phobya.

Now grow a pair ffs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sponsored by Aquacomputer. Never have been. You also seem to forget the recent slagging AC got from me for the leaky Titan blocks....slip your mind did it in your righteous frenzy?
> 
> You are laboring under a false assumption.
> 
> I talk smack about ALL companies,dont think i singled Alphacool out...although they are the worst for QC issues along with Phobya.
> 
> Now grow a pair ffs.


We get this, you despise several companies. You spewing this over and over and over and over, gets annoying. That's my point. Yet talk bad about AC, BNeg to arms! Haha, your a good laugh but I'm moving on


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sponsored by Aquacomputer. Never have been. You also seem to forget the recent slagging AC got from me for the leaky Titan blocks....slip your mind did it in your righteous frenzy?
> 
> You are laboring under a false assumption.
> 
> I talk smack about ALL companies,dont think i singled Alphacool out...although they are the worst for QC issues along with Phobya.
> 
> Now grow a pair ffs.
> 
> 
> 
> We get this, you despise several companies. You spewing this over and over and over and over, gets annoying. That's my point. Yet talk bad about AC, BNeg to arms! Haha, your a good laugh but I'm moving on
Click to expand...

Again,I dont despise any company...except Phobya.

Again,I talk about the bad from AC too. What part of that do you struggle with?
I mean,you are so wrong on my sponsorship status with them,what other assumptions are you making....

Now seeing as there have been many Alphacool rads with busted panels and shoddy paint recently in this thread,taking the mick out of the surplus stickers you have covering the dents was quite topical.

I take this moment to remind you of the EK hate you pushed out for a few years......hypocritical much?


----------



## Simplynicko

some admin please clean up this carebear nonsense.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I never got in on the EK hate-train myself thank you very much. And I love AC and CL so what do ya'll think about that?


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> *snip*


Any hints on your new build? Been anxiously waiting on what will supersede Officer Murhphy


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any hints on your new build? Been anxiously waiting on what will supersede Officer Murhphy


lol, I was waiting on the case to be made by Parvum, I got word that it will be done this week so I'll be starting the new build log either tonight or tomorrow... I have all of the other components including some delicious Mayhem's Aurora 2...


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> lol, I was waiting on the case to be made by Parvum, I got word that it will be done this week so I'll be starting the new build log either tonight or tomorrow... I have all of the other components including some delicious Mayhem's Aurora 2...


Does it taste like peaches?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> lol, I was waiting on the case to be made by Parvum, I got word that it will be done this week so I'll be starting the new build log either tonight or tomorrow... I have all of the other components including some delicious Mayhem's Aurora 2...


Going to wait for Haswell-E? or current hardware?

Btw, gotta ask if you've driven the new S-class yet (







)?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Does it taste like peaches?


lol


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Going to wait for Haswell-E? or current hardware?
> 
> Btw, gotta ask if you've driven the new S-class yet (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?
> lol


It's an mATX Z87 build...

I have indeed, we actually have a very rare S63 in-stock, I'll make you a good deal on it... There is absolutely nothing on the market comparable to the new s-class - nothing, Rolls and Bentley included.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yup. Both XNine and KevnCL said its not a CL issue as their cases have been manufactured to the same specs for a few years now. I was under the impression it was a CL issues but after Luna's thread and the CL reps giving their take, its definitely an AC issue. I had no issues with my NZXT Mix2 controller fitting in several different cases included two different CL cases.
> When its only AC that has the issue and every other controller does fine, its an AC issue. They didn't research it properly and take into account CL. Nuff said, Yarp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, BNeg doesn't like it his own treatment. Yarp again


I had issues getting it into the front of my 900D. It was WAY too tight of a fit, to the point where it warped the front face just enough for me to stick it on the inside of the case... Is it an issue of case slot being "too small" as in the AQ is too big?

will see if they make the bracket for the STH-10... May just mount it internally again.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any hints on your new build? Been anxiously waiting on what will supersede Officer Murhphy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, I was waiting on the case to be made by Parvum, I got word that it will be done this week so I'll be starting the new build log either tonight or tomorrow... I have all of the other components including some delicious Mayhem's Aurora 2...
Click to expand...

Justin hook you up ok? Glad I could help


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Justin hook you up ok? Glad I could help


Dude I appreciate it big time, I haven't seen what they've done yet, but he said he was finishing it this week and had some "great" ideas







I'm really excited about this build because of this case and you hooking me up with direct contact...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> It's an mATX Z87 build...
> 
> I have indeed, we actually have a very rare S63 in-stock, I'll make you a good deal on it... There is absolutely nothing on the market comparable to the new s-class - nothing, Rolls and Bentley included.


ah, ok nice different route. Still acrylic tube?

Lol, S63 is extremely out of my range







. Still fancy a W211E63 estate...some day :'(


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ah, ok nice different route. Still acrylic tube?


Indeed, I have so much E22 laying around it's ridiculous


----------



## Wihglah

Nearing completion:


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> Nearing completion:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great man! I really dig that shiny motherboard tray - red acrylic or paint/clearcoat?


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Looks great man! I really dig that shiny motherboard tray - red acrylic or paint/clearcoat?


Acrylic.

And thank you.

What you can see is the 925 section of my HAF Stacker.

The 915 is above and is dedicated as a rad box. It has a XSPC RX360 V3 with Noctua NF-F12s in Push


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Except the AC controller came long _before_ the CL case,the timeline does not back up your derp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are completely ignoring the fact that its only a few CL cases that suffer with this too,I am liking your blind faith when a manufacturer says "Its not our fault" tho.....
> 
> You are fighting as losing corner there........


Actually, a quick search online has revealed a lot of folks have had issues with the AC's in way more than just CL cases. There were folks with corsairs, silverstones, and CM. So, nope, still an AC issue.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> Acrylic.
> 
> And thank you.
> 
> What you can see is the 925 section of my HAF Stacker.
> 
> The 915 is above and is dedicated as a rad box. It has a XSPC RX360 V3 with Noctua NF-F12s in Push


How smooth are the Koolance comp fittings? Nice rig btw


----------



## szeged

My issue with AC is their quality control with their radiators... oh wait they don't have any quality control. New 480 monsta is ready to be shipped...better beat it with a hammer first.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> My issue with AC is their quality control with their radiators... oh wait they don't have any quality control. New 480 monsta is ready to be shipped...better beat it with a hammer first.


Ah but you cant say that apparently. Apparently it has some relevance to Aquacomputer and CL cases......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Except the AC controller came long _before_ the CL case,the timeline does not back up your derp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are completely ignoring the fact that its only a few CL cases that suffer with this too,I am liking your blind faith when a manufacturer says "Its not our fault" tho.....
> 
> You are fighting as losing corner there........
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, a quick search online has revealed a lot of folks have had issues with the AC's in way more than just CL cases. There were folks with corsairs, silverstones, and CM. So, nope, still an AC issue.
Click to expand...

A quick search of Google bought nothing up for me.

Problems mounting and problems fitting Aquacomputer XT5 as the search term.


----------



## wermad

AC = aqua computer









my alpha cool 560s came in perfect shape. Just wish plugs were in black paint.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Actually, a quick search online has revealed a lot of folks have had issues with the *aqua computer*s in way more than just CL cases. There were folks with corsairs, silverstones, and CM. So, nope, still an AC issue.


like i said,fitting in the 900D is a major PITA, way too tight. I assume that is the issue with CaseLabs? Too tight?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> My issue with *Alphacool* is their quality control with their radiators... oh wait they don't have any quality control. New 480 monsta is ready to be shipped...better beat it with a hammer first.


there fixed.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How smooth are the Koolance comp fittings? Nice rig btw


firstly - love the avatar.

The Koolance fittings are excellent - Easy to fit and remove. They are also really high flow.

The 60* are Bitspower. I went back and forth about using rigid tubing to avoid the elbows, and went this way as I prefer the look of flexible.


----------



## szeged

Yeah I didn't realize it till like 5 mins after posting lol, super tired. My post remains the same though, I'm done buying alphacool products after these radiators I've gotten.


----------



## VSG

Hang on now, who ended up fixing the Aquaero and caselabs issue? I wanted to know in case I have this issue.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ah but you cant say that apparently. Apparently it has some relevance to Aquacomputer and CL cases......
> A quick search of Google bought nothing up for me.
> 
> Problems mounting and problems fitting Aquacomputer XT5 as the search term.


That's your fault, your search was for the wrong controller, the issue is with the AquaComputer 6-series controllers. So maybe look for that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ah but you cant say that apparently. Apparently it has some relevance to Aquacomputer and CL cases......
> A quick search of Google bought nothing up for me.
> 
> Problems mounting and problems fitting Aquacomputer XT5 as the search term.
> 
> 
> 
> That's your fault, your search was for the wrong controller, the issue is with the AquaComputer 6-series controllers. So maybe look for that.
Click to expand...

Ah,I forgot about the 6.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> firstly - love the avatar.
> 
> The Koolance fittings are excellent - Easy to fit and remove. They are also really high flow.
> 
> The 60* are Bitspower. I went back and forth about using rigid tubing to avoid the elbows, and went this way as I prefer the look of flexible.


Thanks! I've still debating on which black fittings to finally get. I've had great luck w/ Enzotech but they're priced a tad higher then EK, Swiftech, Alpha, & Koolance.

I did try acrylic and though it looks fantastic, its not for me. I think I should have waited for the Monsoon kits to help but I'm already too invested in this setup with good old nylon tube.

Thanks again








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Yeah I didn't realize it till like 5 mins after posting lol, super tired. My post remains the same though, I'm done buying alphacool products after these radiators I've gotten.


Np dude







.

That S8 came in yet?


----------



## skupples

So, you guys keep going back & forth about a fitting issue, two people have now asked what the specific issue is...

Is the controller TOO BIG/case TOO small?


----------



## wermad

The one i know first hand is Luna's fitment issue w/ the A6 in the TH10. I haven't heard anyone with the STH10 having issues but I've heard many fitment issues with CL (in general) and it looks like a few more cases as well.

Last I heard and saw in the AC support forum on their site, there was a revised faceplate coming out to address this. Since not that many ppl have an A6, its not a huge issue like some other bombshells out there.

I guess the only way to find out is to try and fit yours in your STH10 when it arrives.


----------



## VSG

I know Luna had issues with the screw holes not matching up with the flexbay docks. Caselabs has since introduced a flexible version which I guess is the solution.


----------



## wermad

http://www.overclock.net/t/1456301/th10-case-and-an-aquaeros-6-that-just-wont-fit-help-please

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I know Luna had issues with the screw holes not matching up with the flexbay docks. Caselabs has since introduced a flexible version which I guess is the solution.


From what I can recall, I think the front was just too wide to squeeze into the opening of the TH10 bay system and hence why the screw holes also didn't align.

We thought he was having issues installing the Flexbay brackets, turns out the A6 was just not physically fitting.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, you guys keep going back & forth about a fitting issue, two people have now asked what the specific issue is...
> 
> Is the controller TOO BIG/case TOO small?


Check if it fits on the 900D bays. If it does, then the Aquaero is fine, if it doesn't then you may need to bust out a hacksaw.


----------



## VSG

Ya I caught up with the 3 relevant threads. My AQ6 fit in snugly in the 900D, definitely better than what Skupples went through with his.


----------



## Kimir

Referring to this, this and this I suppose.
No pb with the SMA8 and AQ6, if only I had the info there was small bracket available before my purchase, bah it won't be that bad visually, I guess.


----------



## VSG

Yes, yes and yes


----------



## skupples

CL made an adapter... http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/

Lebestia, it is just slightly too wide for the 900D's face plate. I would have to take the file to it to make it fit to my liking. The screen warps ever so slightly, after a firm push.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> CL made an adapter... http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/
> 
> Lebestia, it is just slightly too wide for the 900D's face plate. I would have to take the file to it to make it fit to my liking. The screen warps ever so slightly, after a firm push.


Damn, that's not cool for such expensive unit.


----------



## VSG

Funny how mine fit in, albeit snugly. Maybe both AC brands have some quality control issues


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Funny how mine fit in, albeit snugly. Maybe both AC brands have some quality control issues


Since the front panel of the 900D is plastic, i'm leaning towards it being on the 900D. Specially since it has those silly plastic tabs.

It's definitely snug, so much so that the front panel was slightly warped.


----------



## wermad

Any company can have issues. I myself had very bad experience with the old ek nickle blocks. Best thing to do is just move on. Its not like we have hundreds of companies that we can choose from


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any company can have issues. I myself had very bad experience with the old ek nickle blocks. Best thing to do is just move on. Its not like we have hundreds of companies that we can choose from


Yep, I agree with that statement. I also know that when it comes to water cooling, prices get jacked up. Pump, thermostat and coolant for my VDub is cheaper than the pump, res and coolant for my PC. Go figure.


----------



## skupples

nah, none of the WC CEO's are driving fancy cars & living in 1,000,000 homes!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> nah, none of the WC CEO's are driving fancy cars & living in 1,000,000 homes!


Not the manufaturers, but the resellers are.


----------



## wermad

$900 290x = new ferrari for newegg ceo


----------



## aaroc

All my WC parts arrived, i will need a wide angle to take a picture or put everything on the parking lot and wait for Google Earth satellite to fly by








Now I understand why you use skyscraper size tower to fit all inside








I dont know why I have the feeling that i forget to order something and when trying to put all together I will remember or find out .......









Do you clean your reservoirs and waterblocks like the radiator with hot distilled water and a good shake?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> $900 290x = new ferrari for newegg ceo


Selling 200 of them at $900 would make them 100K in profit. 549 is Msrp. so lets say Newgg costs is around 450. that's 500 bucks of pure gravy.


----------



## stickg1

Speaking of LunaP, haven't seen him in a while.

*Important question:*
About to make a ham sandwich, yellow mustard or dijon? I saw some honey-cup in the back of the fridge but it looks possibly moldy, #YOLO and use it anyway or what?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> All my WC parts arrived, i will need a wide angle to take a picture or put everything on the parking lot and wait for Google Earth satellite to fly by
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I understand why you use skyscraper size tower to fit all inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know why I have the feeling that i forget to order something and when trying to put all together I will remember or find out .......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you clean your reservoirs and waterblocks like the radiator with hot distilled water and a good shake?


Nice!









It wouldn't hurt to flush them and don't require much time to do.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Speaking of LunaP, haven't seen him in a while.
> 
> *Important question:*
> About to make a ham sandwich, yellow mustard or dijon? I saw some honey-cup in the back of the fridge but it looks possibly moldy, #YOLO and use it anyway or what?


Knowing how you are with colors,are you sure its not green....


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Speaking of LunaP, haven't seen him in a while.
> 
> *Important question:*
> About to make a ham sandwich, yellow mustard or dijon? I saw some honey-cup in the back of the fridge but it looks possibly moldy, #YOLO and use it anyway or what?


Always dijon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Knowing how you are with colors,are you sure its not green....


----------



## stickg1

I dunno but it had some purple in it, so you know it's good! I decided it was all too much effort, just grabbed another brewski instead.


----------



## Anoxy

Ha, sped up my pump to 3300 rpm and my bottom card still runs ~6 degrees warmer. I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that I used fuji poly ultra extreme on one, and stock ek pads on the other one. Or maybe that's just serial.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ha, sped up my pump to 3300 rpm and my bottom card still runs ~6 degrees warmer. I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that I used fuji poly ultra extreme on one, and stock ek pads on the other one. Or maybe that's just serial.


It's because you sent me the RX360 and your block is mad at you because they were totes BFFs...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ha, sped up my pump to 3300 rpm and my bottom card still runs ~6 degrees warmer. I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that I used fuji poly ultra extreme on one, and stock ek pads on the other one. Or maybe that's just serial.


sounds like a possible bad mount.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ha, sped up my pump to 3300 rpm and my bottom card still runs ~6 degrees warmer. I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that I used fuji poly ultra extreme on one, and stock ek pads on the other one. Or maybe that's just serial.


I'm thinking it's that they are run in serial!


----------



## Anoxy

Well I guess the only way to know is order another bitspower link and run parallel again.


----------



## wermad

If you can, swap the cards (slot locations) and see if the temp difference is on the other card too. IF not, could be a bad mount as Skups suggested


----------



## skupples

6C seems like allot for running serial on two cards. Assuming both have a good mount the temp difference in serial should be minimal. remember water temp barely fluctuates from one part of the loop to another.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Well I guess the only way to know is order another bitspower link and run parallel again.


I doubt its because its in serial,i run my cards in serial and the highest temp difference is 3c,keep in mind that hotter card (gainward) always ran hotter and is factory overclocked higher than the other and uses a higher voltage by default....Even when i switch them around its the same thing,the gainward card just runs hotter no matter if its the first or second card,it did the same on air....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> nah, none of the WC CEO's are driving fancy cars & living in 1,000,000 homes!


I wouldnt be so sure of that,they do _very_ well for themselves.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Well I guess the only way to know is order another bitspower link and run parallel again.
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt its because its in serial,i run my cards in serial and the highest temp difference is 3c,keep in mind that hotter card (gainward) always ran hotter and is factory overclocked higher than the other and uses a higher voltage by default....Even when i switch them around its the same thing,the gainward card just runs hotter no matter if its the first or second card,it did the same on air....
Click to expand...

This,its not because its serial. The most temp difference I have seen is around 2-3c on the primary card and that has been on sli and tri sli rigs.


----------



## Buttsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This,its not because its serial. The most temp difference I have seen is around 2-3c on the primary card and that has been on sli and tri sli rigs.


B Negative and Reaper are right,

Running Triple SLI 660 Tis using an EK Serial bridge I have a 1 degree difference between my first card and my third card under water both at idle and at load, when they were using the stock DCII coolers they were 2-3 deg between the first and third cards.

There is something else wrong with that setup, most likely the block needs re-seating


----------



## kizwan

I want to rebuild my loop; adding radiator & re-seat GPU block with new TP & TIM. However I don't have enough pastel to fills the loop. Can I run distilled only for a month until additional pastel arrived? My loop only consist off copper, brass & old batch of monsoon compression fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I want to rebuild my loop; adding radiator & re-seat GPU block with new TP & TIM. However I don't have enough pastel to fills the loop. Can I run distilled only for a month until additional pastel arrived? My loop only consist off copper, brass & old batch of monsoon compression fittings.


Yup,it will be fine. I would recommend a good flush before filling with the Pastel tho.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I want to rebuild my loop; adding radiator & re-seat GPU block with new TP & TIM. However I don't have enough pastel to fills the loop. Can I run distilled only for a month until additional pastel arrived? My loop only consist off copper, brass & old batch of monsoon compression fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup,it will be fine. I would recommend a good flush before filling with the Pastel tho.
Click to expand...

Thanks!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I want to rebuild my loop; adding radiator & re-seat GPU block with new TP & TIM. However I don't have enough pastel to fills the loop. Can I run distilled only for a month until additional pastel arrived? My loop only consist off copper, brass & old batch of monsoon compression fittings.


What rad will you be adding...?


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I want to rebuild my loop; adding radiator & re-seat GPU block with new TP & TIM. However I don't have enough pastel to fills the loop. Can I run distilled only for a month until additional pastel arrived? My loop only consist off copper, brass & old batch of monsoon compression fittings.


I would run it with distilled until you get the pastel but flush it when you are ready to add the color.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I want to rebuild my loop; adding radiator & re-seat GPU block with new TP & TIM. However I don't have enough pastel to fills the loop. Can I run distilled only for a month until additional pastel arrived? My loop only consist off copper, brass & old batch of monsoon compression fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What rad will you be adding...?
Click to expand...

Hardware Labs Black Ice SR-1 120.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I want to rebuild my loop; adding radiator & re-seat GPU block with new TP & TIM. However I don't have enough pastel to fills the loop. Can I run distilled only for a month until additional pastel arrived? My loop only consist off copper, brass & old batch of monsoon compression fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would run it with distilled until you get the pastel but flush it when you are ready to add the color.
Click to expand...

Thanks!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldnt be so sure of that,they do _very_ well for themselves.
> This,its not because its serial. The most temp difference I have seen is around 2-3c on the primary card and that has been on sli and tri sli rigs.












humor transfers poorly over the web some times.

I'm sure most of them are doing quite fine. EK needs to hire a third Customer rep though. Tibrr & Sajn seem worked to the bone.

I'm convinced my filter is loktited.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Been debating adding a Mayhems dye to my distilled loop, any advice on pros and cons of doing so. Since originally I bought a primo chill dye bomb but haven't used it since I had seen a bunch of bad reviews of it gun king up blocks and such, so due to that product slightly paranoid of any other dyes. Especially since my distilled has run great with just a kill coil so far (almost 4 months)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Been debating adding a Mayhems dye to my distilled loop, any advice on pros and cons of doing so. Since originally I bought a primo chill dye bomb but haven't used it since I had seen a bunch of bad reviews of it gun king up blocks and such, so due to that product slightly paranoid of any other dyes. Especially since my distilled has run great with just a kill coil so far (almost 4 months)


Are you using clear tubing and/or acrylic blocks?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have a clear acrylic Alphacool top on my pump and then my AquaComputer pro res, but was thinking of swapping some of my white tubing for clear, but was debating between Alphacool tubing or primo again.

When I go to acrylic it'll be in the source 210 reboot for my gf, which she wants the blueberry pastel, lol.


----------



## VSG

I measured my 900D bays and they were exact to spec though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I measured my 900D bays and they were exact to spec though.


so then once again it is on AQ & those brackets & face plate.

Remember though... 900D has those little tabs, and indents inside the drive bays, on the face panel. Those are the main thing that gets in the way of my controller.


----------



## wermad

Rig update: spent a good hour draining the loop in my rig just to swap out cpu. Well, finally got the cpu in, though i managed to spill some of the di (on the desk). I used an entire gallon and I'm out of di. Off to walmart for another gallon to top off the rig







. Liking IB-E better then the old SB-E so far







.

For those still unclear in the whole debacle yesterday (you know who you are







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> First, there was no issue with Case Labs, it was an issue with the Aquaero 6 mounting arms. This affected installation of the Aquaero in ANY case. Second, Instead of waiting for AC to fix the problem, we came up with a solution that would benefit our customers, and could be used for other devices that fail to meet the international specifications of 5.25 bays.
> 
> Nobody was crying. When you buy a controller that's 200 bucks, you expect it to not have a glaring defect such as the one it has.


----------



## KOLIBERk

Hi,
got my old rig pic here:
 

iMAC10,1 - OSX Mavericks 10.9.2 Retail

ASUS P5Q-E Intel P45
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 @4GHz FSB471 1.24V
Kingston HYPERX 4x2gb DDR2 943MHz 5-5-5-15 2.10V
EVGA GTX 570 AquagraFX 1.28GB 320bit [850MHz/1700MHz/2000MHz 1.013V]
Samsung 840 Pro 128GB SSD SATA III
4x 1TB WD GREEN WD10EACS 7200obr
Hitachi 5K320 320GB - USB 2.0 LaCie
OCZ Vertex 2 120GB - USB 3.0 LaCie
LG GSA-E60N
2x HANNspree Verona 22" 1680x1050 WXGA 2ms DVI-HDMI
AD2000B Intel 82801JB ICH10 - HD Audio 7.1
ASM1061 PCIe 2.0 x8 SATA III 6GB/s AHCI
Orico PFU3-4P PCIe 2.0 x1 USB 3.0 5Gbps Fresco chipset

Logitech Performance MX Darkfield Mouse
Logitech K750 Wireless Solar Keyboard for Mac
Elgato EyeTV Hybrid

PSU iCute Titanium Pro 1000W 5A (AP-1000AS) 80PLUS - Moc: 1000W peak | 850W rated
+3.3V: 30A | +5V: 28A | +12V1: 20A | +12V2: 20A | +12V3: 20A | +12V4: 20A
+3.3V & +5V limit: 180W | +12V limit: 750W (80A)

Water Cooling:
- XSPC Acrylic Dual Bay Reservoir
- Swiftech Laing DDC-1Plus 18W pump [10V]
- aquagraFX for GTX 570 (GF110) G1/4 type 1
- Alphacool NexXxoS Pro II Rev.2 278mm (L) x 120mm (W) x 30mm (H) - 16/17 FPI
- Alphacool NexXxoS Xtreme I Rev.2 160mm (L) x 122mm (W) x 40mm (H) - 12/13 FPI
- XSPC EX240 Dual Radiator Matt 275mm (L) x 121mm (W) x 35mm (H) - 10 FPI
- ZM-WB3 GOLD CPU water block
- 5 x 120mm Arctic Cooling F12 1100rpm


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Rig update: spent a good hour draining the loop in my rig just to swap out cpu. Well, finally got the cpu in, though i managed to spill some of the di (on the desk). I used an entire gallon and I'm out of di. Off to walmart for another gallon to top off the rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Liking IB-E better then the old SB-E so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> For those still unclear in the whole debacle yesterday (you know who you are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


what cpu did you get in?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *snip*


I have already stated that I thought we were talking about the 5 and not the 6,I can admit i was wrong.
Seems that you cant tho......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> what cpu did you get in?


4820k. Hoping this fixes the issues I'm having. Ibe is a tad cooler at stock vs the old sbe. Just finished Ibt maximum (30gb, ~ 7 hours). Now to push the clocks. Looking to clock around 4.7-4.8. Found some gelid tim from the supremacy.


----------



## szeged

ooh very nice







im sure 4.8 will be easy for you, its not like you dont have the cooling capacity for it lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Frosted the back of the res body..



Looks good im thinking then i spot something.......



Spoiler: Really?



*











Idiot......*


----------



## kingchris

opps! thats a bummer!


----------



## TheOx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Frosted the back of the res body..
> 
> 
> 
> .[/SPOILER][/B]


I'm assuming thats condensation on the inside of the rez not uneven frosting?

If you don't mind what frosting process did you use here, turned out pretty mint man


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Frosted the back of the res body..
> 
> 
> 
> .[/SPOILER][/B]
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming thats condensation on the inside of the rez not uneven frosting?
> 
> If you don't mind what frosting process did you use here, turned out pretty mint man
Click to expand...

It is condensation,its not totally dry from the leak test as i sealed the ports to frost it.,the frosting is glass frosting rattle can.


----------



## X-Nine

And I will post in here as well (please note, I'm not singling anyone out or lambasting anyone, just explaining what the actual issue is)

The Aquaero units most people are having issues with are the Aquaero 6 (Pro AND XT models). The problem doesn't lie with CaseLabs, all of our chassis are designed to meet international specifications. The problem is with the Aquaero unit's mounting brackets (or arms, if you will) for 5.25 bays. It seems that there are 1 of 3 issues with the units:

1. The holes for mounting the entire unit together on the mounting brackets using the front screws on the Aquaero were not drilled to allow any kind of wiggle room side to side, meaning they can only be mounted to the unit.
2. The mounting brackets themselves are too large in material to allow proper mounting in the 5.25 bay.
3. The mounting brackets were drilled too far out from the unit.
ALL of these reasons come down to the simple fact; the Aquaero does not want to fit in 5.25 bays (this includes my Lian Li as well, so it's not an issue with CL).

The reason why CaseLabs has developed the non-conforming shim brackets is for this reason, to allow the user to install the Aquaero and have it fit seamlessly. Users who've bought the adapters say they work wonders and allow the A6 to fit perfectly. These will also work if you have any other device that doesn't want to play well with 5.25 bays (Disc Drives, fan controllers.... cigarette lighters.... etc). Since MANY of our customers opt for the Aquaero controllers, why not fix the issue ASAP instead of waiting for it to be fixed?

You can find our official thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1457879/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming-mac-508-now-available


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks good im thinking then i spot something.......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Really?
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idiot......*


I did the same thing with my midplate holes, I feel your pain.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Opportunity knocks?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Opportunity knocks?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


some day. Not really sure why it uses so many PWM heads, though it is nice that its being fed by a 6 pin power, should allow even more than a molex... (swear i saw one that had molex support @ some point)

I would also be deathly afraid of its software @ launch.

It will be a sure fire hit if it can A.) handle even more fans than an Aquaero 6, B.) cost a good chunk less than Aquaero, C.) have equally stable software as Aquacomputer.


----------



## lowfat

Polished the crap out of one Supreme. Brushed the other. Playing around w/ some Mayhems I have laying around.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-34-5.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-30-5.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-33-5.jpg.html


----------



## mrinfinit3

Very nice work there bud!








Am a fan of the polished myself


----------



## VSG

I like the brushed one myself. Different strokes for different folks!


----------



## Anoxy

Well i like the lighting in your photos


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Frosted the back of the res body..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good im thinking then i spot something.......
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Really?
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idiot......*


What's the issue?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What's the issue?


Gonna possibly be hard to fill it with the molex plugged in........ That's my guess.

Hard to tell, but it looks the the AQ overhangs the fill port??


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What's the issue?


The AQ5 waterblock port is blocking the fill port.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Weird, my Supreme HF looks polished like the left one but I never did anything to it. Btw, the Supreme HF is still the best looking CPU block there is in my opinion (well, the AC Kryos is pretty amazing too but not acrylic)...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Weird, my Supreme HF looks polished like the left one but I never did anything to it.


It is hard to photograph the difference. Originally you could see machine tool marks in the acrylic. Especially on the inside of the block. I wet sanded it from 800 to 2000 to remove them. If I wasn't using pastel in the block you would be able to see how clearly you can see the bottom of the block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Btw, the Supreme HF is still the best looking CPU block there is in my opinion (well, the AC Kryos is pretty amazing too but not acrylic)...


I agree. As long as you have blocks that can match it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ooh very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im sure 4.8 will be easy for you, its not like you dont have the cooling capacity for it lol.


Busy all day and just got time to start messing with it. I really just need ~4.7 since its enough not to hold back the gpu's. Tbh, at 6000x1920, the gpu's are taking over and doing the majority of the work. Let's see how IB-E does









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Polished the crap out of one Supreme. Brushed the other. Playing around w/ some Mayhems I have laying around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-34-5.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-30-5.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-33-5.jpg.html


Always impressive and luv how you create art from our little wc world


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The AQ5 waterblock port is blocking the fill port.


Put a relief valve there (or just leave the stop fitting as a manual relief) and tap a new hole. That way all your hard work isn't wasted.

Just an idea.


----------



## TwentyCent

^^I like this. Give this man a cookie!









Regarding frosting, quite a fan myself







.
Slowly coming together:


----------



## Anoxy

Any thoughts on what could be causing this? Clear Mayhem's X1....and it's just super bubbly. Sometimes I'll boot it up and it'll be clear with no bubbles, but other times it's like this....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Any thoughts on what could be causing this? Clear Mayhem's X1....and it's just super bubbly. Sometimes I'll boot it up and it'll be clear with no bubbles, but other times it's like this....


Is your pump a D5 or DDC?? I say let it run for 24hr and see if they don't go away and stay away. Looks like the system isn't actually bled out completely.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah D5 pwm. Should I crank the pump speed up to help it along, or would that just make it worse? It's running at about 3300 rpm right now.


----------



## PCModderMike

New build, new fittings.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah D5 pwm. Should I crank the pump speed up to help it along, or would that just make it worse? It's running at about 3300 rpm right now.


should be fine as it is.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> New build, new fittings.


New build Mike? You going to do some video of it on your YT channel?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> New build Mike? You going to do some video of it on your YT channel?


Yep, got a new S5 I'm working with. But no on any videos, I haven't touched my YT channel in a couple of years now.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I know, what gives? I loved your GTX 570 water block installation vid.


----------



## Jameswalt1

My new build log









http://www.overclock.net/t/1476225/sponsored-parvum-titanfall#post_21992512


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What's the issue?
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna possibly be hard to fill it with the molex plugged in........ That's my guess.
> 
> Hard to tell, but it looks the the AQ overhangs the fill port??
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What's the issue?
> 
> 
> 
> The AQ5 waterblock port is blocking the fill port.
Click to expand...

A bag of Gummi bears for you both.

I didnt follow my own drawing,much fail there,It will still work but i will need the hands of a watchmaker to do it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The AQ5 waterblock port is blocking the fill port.
> 
> 
> 
> Put a relief valve there (or just leave the stop fitting as a manual relief) and tap a new hole. That way all your hard work isn't wasted.
> 
> Just an idea.
Click to expand...

Sealed body res will make swarf removal nigh on impossibru.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Weird, my Supreme HF looks polished like the left one but I never did anything to it. Btw, the *Supreme HF is still the best looking CPU block* there is in my opinion (well, the AC Kryos is pretty amazing too but not acrylic)...


It is one of the all time greats along with the HK 3,I would include the RASA and the Cuplex.



I went mad with the filters on an old block....

For those that dont know what a RASA or Cuplex are...

Cuplex



RASA.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A bag of Gummi bears for you both.
> 
> I didnt follow my own drawing,much fail there,It will still work but i will need the hands of a watchmaker to do it.
> Sealed body res will make swarf removal nigh on impossibru.


Surely a vacuum And some tilting could get them out.


----------



## liberato87

http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/liquid/phobya-g-changer-360-hpc-eleganza-solidita-e-prestazioni-sono-interamente-made-in-germany-201403209698/]REVIEW OF THE *PHOBYA G-CHANGER 360 HPC*
[/URL]



what do you think?


----------



## SmokinJoe-7769

my latest creation. somewhat full description is in my profile somewhere...or in the my rigs section....P.S. the cable management wasnt quite finished yet...so ill just leave you all with this pic.

finished.jpg 73k .jpg file


----------



## psycho84

A few little Changes (other CPU Cooler , Mayhems Pastel Red)..


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> A few little Changes (other CPU Cooler , Mayhems Pastel Red)..


i'd gladly buy this system off you if priorities weren't as such atm. Love red. Beautiful build m8!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Any thoughts on what could be causing this? Clear Mayhem's X1....and it's just super bubbly. Sometimes I'll boot it up and it'll be clear with no bubbles, but other times it's like this....


This was happening to me with X1 until I got the Poweradjust2.

The solution for me was turning the pump down some.

Where is the return line for your reservoir? Up top? If the coolant is splashing it will keep generating micro-bubbles.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Weird, my Supreme HF looks polished like the left one but I never did anything to it. Btw, the *Supreme HF is still the best looking CPU block* there is in my opinion (well, the AC Kryos is pretty amazing too but not acrylic)...
> 
> 
> 
> It is one of the all time greats along with the HK 3,I would include the RASA and the Cuplex.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went mad with the filters on an old block....
> 
> For those that dont know what a RASA or Cuplex are...
> 
> Cuplex
> 
> 
> 
> RASA.
Click to expand...

You Left out the MIPS IceForce


----------



## lowfat

The Cuplex XT was definitely a fantastic looking block.

The Iceforce however I find rather ugly.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The Cuplex XT was definitely a fantastic looking block.
> 
> The Iceforce however I find rather ugly.


BLASPHEMY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!









That's okay. I forgive you for your sin.


----------



## oelkanne

Has anyone a solution for Aquacomputer tripple SLI? The Block that fits all 3 Cards would beginn to Leak into my system...now i have to find another solution for that ...Help needed


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Has anyone a solution for Aquacomputer tripple SLI? The Block that fits all 3 Cards would beginn to Leak into my system...now i have to find another solution for that ...Help needed


Is it the bridge that is leaking?


----------



## oelkanne

Nope..its a very fine diffence between the 3 Cards...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Weird, my Supreme HF looks polished like the left one but I never did anything to it. Btw, the *Supreme HF is still the best looking CPU block* there is in my opinion (well, the AC Kryos is pretty amazing too but not acrylic)...
> 
> 
> 
> It is one of the all time greats along with the HK 3,I would include the RASA and the Cuplex.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went mad with the filters on an old block....
> 
> For those that dont know what a RASA or Cuplex are...
> 
> Cuplex
> 
> 
> 
> RASA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *You Left out the MIPS IceForce*
Click to expand...

Thats a given tho J,that should never be questioned


----------



## derickwm

Did some work on Aldri last night







doing some more today!


----------



## skupples

Anyone ever returned an un-used/still sealed product to PPC?


----------



## fast_fate

280 out of the S8 mid-chamber, 360 in


----------



## X-Nine

Speaking of MIPS, what's going on? I thought they decided to shutter their doors...now I'm seeing custom systems and Heatkiller Products on the site:
http://www.mips-computer.de/


----------



## skupples

Maybe they have decided to become a reseller.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Speaking of MIPS, what's going on? I thought they decided to shutter their doors...now I'm seeing custom systems and Heatkiller Products on the site:
> http://www.mips-computer.de/


Dunno,maybe Doc sold the rights to MIPS and its starting again from scratch.

God,I hope so....


----------



## Lionheart1980

Hey guys, i was debating on if i should put on sticker badges on the case or not? Which does it look better? I have several badges and i haven't put it on my new build i did few weeks ago...


----------



## Neo Zuko

We don't need no stinking badges!! (bonus points if you know the quote)


----------



## szeged

Stickers and case badges immediately. make the best looking builds look like trashy crap.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Here's my first ever custom wc-build, case is a Corsair 600T in white.

Still on the do to list =>
*Cut new black acrylic panel to cover the 5,25" bays
*Sleeving!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> We don't need no stinking badges!! (bonus points if you know the quote)


That would be Blazing Saddles. Now what do I win?


----------



## szeged

that last pic is glorious.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That would be Blazing Saddles. Now what do I win?


Showing your age, Bram.


----------



## szeged

now finish this one

the sheriff is a ______


----------



## DarthBaggins

**Bong**. I think he's saying the Sherrif's coming


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Here's my first ever custom wc-build, case is a Corsair 600T in white.
> 
> Still on the do to list =>
> *Cut new black acrylic panel to cover the 5,25" bays
> *Sleeving!


That's some gorgeous lighting.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Here's my first ever custom wc-build, case is a Corsair 600T in white.
> 
> Still on the do to list =>
> *Cut new black acrylic panel to cover the 5,25" bays
> *Sleeving!






I'll always love soft tubing builds. Those lines are so impossibly smooth and organic looking.

Stunning.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That would be Blazing Saddles. Now what do I win?












Did you say Abe Lincoln?

No!! I said Hey, Blinkin!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Here's my first ever custom wc-build, case is a Corsair 600T in white.
> 
> Still on the do to list =>
> *Cut new black acrylic panel to cover the 5,25" bays
> *Sleeving!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice but that 90 out is not for me.....


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Thanks guys, it took alot of work, had some problems with the gpu blocks.
I wanted to use some 90° fittings but they were out of stock.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> That's some gorgeous lighting.


Outstanding. Reminds me of the inside of the mothership from "Close Encounters Of The Third Kind".


----------



## Lefik

I'm considering pickup up a EVGA 780 with the dual BIOS, do you guys know if reference design waterblocks would fit? EK coolingconfigurator says no but I'd like to double check with you guys.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I'm considering pickup up a EVGA 780 with the dual BIOS, do you guys know if reference design waterblocks would fit? EK coolingconfigurator says no but I'd like to double check with you guys.


they have different models with dual bios, is it the classified version you are getting?


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> they have different models with dual bios, is it the classified version you are getting?


My bad; just the regular version.


----------



## szeged

it should be fine, its just a reference pcb card with a dual bios switch.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Here's my first ever custom wc-build, case is a Corsair 600T in white.
> 
> Still on the do to list =>
> *Cut new black acrylic panel to cover the 5,25" bays
> *Sleeving!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Job well done.








The 600T is the first case I ever watercooled in *tear....always love seeing 600T builds.


----------



## Simplynicko

guys, i had a question (unrelated to water cooling, related to polishing acrylic / pc modding)

so i have this 18x18 inch acrylic panel and it has a couple scratches in it. how can i buff that out? they aren't deep, but i can notice them.


----------



## derickwm

Changed some things around today 
















































Spoiler: Money shot for b-


----------



## Relttem

Hi all -

if you guys are using Ice Dragon as a coolant, we'd really appreciate it if you could put a pic on our Facebook or mention that you are here, and I'll grab a pic and throw it on there..free exposure.

thanks


----------



## Seid Dark

Do I need to use pliers to securely install compression fittings? Or is tightening by hand enough? I'm worried that paint used in most black fittings will scratch easily. Monsoon includes tool in their 6-packs but availability is pretty scarce around here and they're more expensive than EK. I'm still months away from ordering components for loop but would like to know in advance.


----------



## aaroc

Last box of WC parts arrived last Friday. Performance-pcs extremely well packaged and everything sealed (what had a seal), FrozenCPU well packaged and one EK waterblock in opened box with seal broken.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Last box of WC parts arrived last Friday. Performance-pcs extremely well packaged and everything sealed (what had a seal), FrozenCPU well packaged and one EK waterblock in opened box with seal broken.


That's quite the pile of loots you have there







!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 280 out of the S8 mid-chamber, 360 in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The 360 does look better over the 280,makes her look more filled up....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Here's my first ever custom wc-build, case is a Corsair 600T in white.
> 
> Still on the do to list =>
> *Cut new black acrylic panel to cover the 5,25" bays
> *Sleeving!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Stunning sparkles,makes me miss my 600T.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Changed some things around today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Money shot for b-


Hard or soft tubing....?


----------



## derickwm

Hasn't really been determined yet. I'm learning towards copper but we'll see.


----------



## szeged

knowing derick itll be unobtainium tubing so he has an excuse to not update aldri.


----------



## derickwm

That sounds pretty likely. Even doing this bit of simple work was way too strenuous.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> guys, i had a question (unrelated to water cooling, related to polishing acrylic / pc modding)
> 
> so i have this 18x18 inch acrylic panel and it has a couple scratches in it. how can i buff that out? they aren't deep, but i can notice them.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1281014/acrylic-bending-101/0_20

Flame polishing is towards the end of the post.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Relttem*
> 
> Hi all -
> 
> if you guys are using Ice Dragon as a coolant, we'd really appreciate it if you could put a pic on our Facebook or mention that you are here, and I'll grab a pic and throw it on there..free exposure.
> 
> thanks


I have been searching for your product everywhere.....

In the end I had to buy snake oil from someone else.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-res-built-tested-and-i-owe-parvum-a-cold-beer/380_20#post_21995535

Not impressed......


----------



## iamkraine

where can i get a replacement pcb for my mcp35x pump?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> where can i get a replacement pcb for my mcp35x pump?


Unfortunately you can't.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Unfortunately you can't.


That chinese site sells replacement DDC PCBs, not sure if they are PWM though, as I don't remember its name.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That chinese site sells replacement DDC PCBs, not sure if they are PWM though, as I don't remember its name.


diyinhk.com

Not sure anything they have is MCP35x compatible though.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That chinese site sells replacement DDC PCBs, not sure if they are PWM though, as I don't remember its name.


The PCBs they now have for the DDC3.1s are terrible. Only their so called PWM ones work. PWM control on them is humped right up. Unfortunately they don't sell the good Toshiba-based replacement PCBs. Not unless you are willing to buy 50 at a time.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Is your pump a D5 or DDC?? I say let it run for 24hr and see if they don't go away and stay away. Looks like the system isn't actually bled out completely.


Welp, running for 24 hours didn't help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> This was happening to me with X1 until I got the Poweradjust2.
> 
> The solution for me was turning the pump down some.
> 
> Where is the return line for your reservoir? Up top? If the coolant is splashing it will keep generating micro-bubbles.


Well, it's the Aqualis with fountain effect; the return line is at the bottom, but water runs up the central pipe and out the top of it to create a fountain, very little splashing though because the water runs down the outsides of the pump. I can't figure out how to make it stop. Perhaps I do need to lower my pump speed a bit...it's at like 60% right now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Last box of WC parts arrived last Friday. Performance-pcs extremely well packaged and everything sealed (what had a seal), FrozenCPU well packaged and one EK waterblock in opened box with seal broken.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Four PSUs?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Job well done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 600T is the first case I ever watercooled in *tear....always love seeing 600T builds.


Your 600T build was amazing. Didn't it have the custom acrylic side panel or am I thinking of another build?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Last box of WC parts arrived last Friday. Performance-pcs extremely well packaged and everything sealed (what had a seal), FrozenCPU well packaged and one EK waterblock in opened box with seal broken.


Is it just me or is stacking up all your build components on the work table just as much fun as the actual build is???











Hard to believe its been almost two years and multiple revisions since I took this pic! Those were actually Sapphire 7970's!


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The PCBs they now have for the DDC3.1s are terrible. Only their so called PWM ones work. PWM control on them is humped right up. Unfortunately they don't sell the good Toshiba-based replacement PCBs. Not unless you are willing to buy 50 at a time.


That sucks so bad. Mine burnt out within a couple of days and because i have an oem pump top there's no warranty.


----------



## derickwm

Any of ya'll want to trade two identical 240 rads for a XSPC EX480 & EX120?


----------



## stickg1

@Anoxy

I'd try the X1 with no fountain effect to see if it fixes the fizzing. That stuff is like soda, at least that's how it was for me.

Conversely, you can drain the X1 and try distilled to see if you still have trouble. I had issues with X1 in my loop at full speed anyway. No issues with pastel, XT1, or plain distilled though.


----------



## 15goudreau

We all know pastel is where it is at anyways


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Do I need to use pliers to securely install compression fittings? Or is tightening by hand enough? I'm worried that paint used in most black fittings will scratch easily. Monsoon includes tool in their 6-packs but availability is pretty scarce around here and they're more expensive than EK. I'm still months away from ordering components for loop but would like to know in advance.


Dear God, *DO NOT USE PLIERS! DO NOT! NO. NO. NONONONONONONONONONONONONO. NEVER, EVER.* You WILL destroy your fitting and quite possible break the threading on a block or radiator doing that.


----------



## 15goudreau

I use pliers... but those are on rotary fittings to make sure they don't undo when the fitting is rotated. I think if it's done carefully it's fine


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Pliers are not necessary though. Hand-tightened is the best way to go to avoid damaging the fitting or adjacent hardware and to avoid over tightening...


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah, pliers are no good. Get some rubberized work gloves for a few bucks and strengthen those scrawny forearms!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> @Anoxy
> 
> I'd try the X1 with no fountain effect to see if it fixes the fizzing. That stuff is like soda, at least that's how it was for me.
> 
> Conversely, you can drain the X1 and try distilled to see if you still have trouble. I had issues with X1 in my loop at full speed anyway. No issues with pastel, XT1, or plain distilled though.


Nah, I mentioned in my first post about this that it wasn't happening when I first completed my re-build. It just randomly started doing it a few days after and hasn't stopped now. It's strange.

FUDGE. Sorry double post


----------



## kaiqi07

Its been close to a year since my last build Project Rampage is up. This is the successor to my previous build, Project Rampage II.

This is a custom mod build which various modifications had been done on the Caselabs STH10 as well as full custom watercooling setup.

The whole rig has full automated thermal control via the Aqua Computer's Aquaero systems.

Below is the youtube video I had done up for this build. This build will be the last build for the time being as I wish to spend the lost time with my dearest daughter and wife.

*Project Rampage II Final Build*




*
Overall Shot of the Mid Chamber Loop (Motherboard and GPUs)*


*ASUS Rampage IV Extreme Loop Order*


*Dual D5 Pumps with Bitspower D5 Mod Kit and V2 Pump Top (Mid Chamber)*




*Tri SLI 780TIs*


----------



## skupples

yeah! Them rubber gloves work great! In all honesty though, depending on what tubing you use, you probably don't want to tighten them all the way.


----------



## Divey

Add me please. Just finished the second leak test. Darn Bitspower "Q" fitting had a leak at the rotary part.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Four PSUs?


If not used on this build I will have power for a second one







Or i will sell them.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Is it just me or is stacking up all your build components on the work table just as much fun as the actual build is???


Yes it is!


----------



## Relttem

Quote:


> I have been searching for your product everywhere.....
> 
> In the end I had to buy snake oil from someone else.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-res-built-tested-and-i-owe-parvum-a-cold-beer/380_20#post_21995535
> 
> Not impressed......


Sorry about that, we don't sell it ourselves. We tried that, and it was a nightmare..so, we have resellers selling it - Mayhems being one of them. If you got pastel, you got Ice Dragon..


----------



## Anoxy

Yep, it was a matter of stepping my pump down to ~2700rpm so the fountain didn't kick up so many bubbles. Hopefully it's not too slow to impact performance....I don't have a flowmeter. Might need to get one of those.


----------



## Hasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Relttem*
> 
> Sorry about that, we don't sell it ourselves. We tried that, and it was a nightmare..so, we have resellers selling it - Mayhems being one of them. If you got pastel, you got Ice Dragon..


Do you mean that pastel ice white and Ice dragon are the same product?


----------



## Relttem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasty*
> 
> Do you mean that pastel ice white and Ice dragon are the same product?


I am not sure if they are 100% the same. He might add some things on his end. You'll have to ask him. Ours isn't UV reactive.


----------



## VSG

Ice Dragon is more of a base from which Pastel took off. By the way, as a PhD engineer myself, I appreciate the whole origin story of Ice Dragon.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Its been close to a year since my last build Project Rampage is up. This is the successor to my previous build, Project Rampage II.
> 
> This is a custom mod build which various modifications had been done on the Caselabs STH10 as well as full custom watercooling setup.
> 
> The whole rig has full automated thermal control via the Aqua Computer's Aquaero systems.
> 
> Below is the youtube video I had done up for this build. This build will be the last build for the time being as I wish to spend the lost time with my dearest daughter and wife.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Project Rampage II Final Build*
> 
> 
> 
> Overall Shot of the Mid Chamber Loop (Motherboard and GPUs)[/B]
> 
> 
> *ASUS Rampage IV Extreme Loop Order*
> 
> 
> *Dual D5 Pumps with Bitspower D5 Mod Kit and V2 Pump Top (Mid Chamber)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tri SLI 780TIs*


beautiful


----------



## Anoxy

I'm looking to snatch up a flow sensor. These were the only two I could find. Any recommendations? The Bitspower looks nice and would match the aesthetic of my build....

Koolance SEN-FM18T10

Bitspower Flow Sensor


----------



## ledzepp3

Well I've waited for almost a year to have my rig to the point it is at now... And my power supply still isn't back







I just want my water cooled goodness back


----------



## skupples

Slightly off topic... NVM found it, modsrigs.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm looking to snatch up a flow sensor. These were the only two I could find. Any recommendations? The Bitspower looks nice and would match the aesthetic of my build....
> 
> Koolance SEN-FM18T10
> 
> Bitspower Flow Sensor


Aquacomputer have some too:
Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB" G1/4
Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 4/5/6, Aquastream XT Ultra and Poweradjust


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Showing your age, Bram.


Hey now, that movie is timeless









I decided to upgrade my gpu to a 780 Ti Classy. I had to take everything apart and re-route the tube going from the reservoir to the front rad. The fit was so tight there that I had to cut out some of the SSD cage for the fitting to come through properly, so then I just used some carbon fiber wrap to hide it. Pay no attention to the PSU cables.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Changed some things around today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*


Dear lordy







, so much orange!


----------



## derickwm

Finally putting your rads to use wermad!

They were getting so sad and lonely tucked away in my closet :sad-smile


----------



## wermad

haha, I remember those


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nah, I mentioned in my first post about this that it wasn't happening when I first completed my re-build. It just randomly started doing it a few days after and hasn't stopped now. It's strange.
> 
> FUDGE. Sorry double post


Welp, all I can tell ya is that I had the same problem and fixed it. Good luck finding a solution.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Dear lordy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so much orange!


You need a PSU to run all the fans.....









NO SEROUSLY how do you connect all those fans I counted 17 I could see and im guessing there are 8 more I can't so HOW


----------



## oelkanne

Yesterday i counted all my Fans in the Rig...and...there are 19 in it... so 8 on top Rad and the other 2*4 in the Bottom + Casefans =) All glory to the mighty Aquaero5


----------



## derickwm

There's 25 in there so far. Have another 25 to add!

I haven't exactly decided how yet. The FC10 does 30w per channel so Im not worried about having 12-16 on each one. Modmytoys has a nice little 8 way PCB splitter for $5.99 or I may just make my own cables.


----------



## PC Upgrade

Hi guys, have a look of my new RIg ''Red Rivver''

Parts

Case: Thermaltake Chaser A31
PSU: Corsair AX860
Mobo: Asus Maximus V formula
CPU: Intel i7 3770k @ 4,4 Ghz
VGA: Asus GTX 770oc @ sli
Ram: 8gb kit Corsair Dominator @ 2000Mhz
SSD: Intel 320 80gb
HDD: 3x Seagte 1tb

Watercooling parts:
EK - ALPHACOOL - CORSAIR - Primochill


----------



## PC Upgrade

Unigine Valley extreme Bench of RedRivver


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> Hi guys, have a look of my new RIg ''Red Rivver''
> 
> Parts
> 
> Case: Thermaltake Chaser A31
> PSU: Corsair AX860
> Mobo: Asus Maximus V formula
> CPU: Intel i7 3770k @ 4,4 Ghz
> VGA: Asus GTX 770oc @ sli
> Ram: 8gb kit Corsair Dominator @ 2000Mhz
> SSD: Intel 320 80gb
> HDD: 3x Seagte 1tb
> 
> Watercooling parts:
> EK - ALPHACOOL - CORSAIR - Primochill
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OMG you were the one who bought that case! LOL


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I just ordered two filters, going to run them just shy of the CPU and the Graphics cards. I am going to move the second pump and try to re position it to where it isn't in front of the CPU. I also received the CLLP and some MX4, so I am going to patiently wait for the Filters to arrive, and by then I should also have my Naked Ivy Add-on.. I will move everything and change everything at one time, and clean the system up. Will report back in about a week with results, unless I decide to go naked with the chip prior to the filters arriving, then I will adjust everything and wait for them. SO EXCITING!!!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Relttem*
> 
> Hi all -
> 
> if you guys are using Ice Dragon as a coolant, we'd really appreciate it if you could put a pic on our Facebook or mention that you are here, and I'll grab a pic and throw it on there..free exposure.
> 
> thanks


I have been searching for your product everywhere.....

In the end I had to buy snake oil from someone else.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I just ordered two filters, going to run them just shy of the CPU and the Graphics cards. I am going to move the second pump and try to re position it to where it isn't in front of the CPU. I also received the CLLP and some MX4, so I am going to patiently wait for the Filters to arrive, and by then I should also have my Naked Ivy Add-on.. I will move everything and change everything at one time, and clean the system up. Will report back in about a week with results, unless I decide to go naked with the chip prior to the filters arriving, then I will adjust everything and wait for them. SO EXCITING!!!!!


Why the filters? You planning on using river water?


----------



## szeged

Got my loops water from the last red tide that rolled in.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*


Nice "Major Award" you got in the background there!


----------



## PC Upgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> OMG you were the one who bought that case! LOL


?????????????????


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Careful that thing is very _fra-jeel-ay_.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Careful that thing is very _fra-jeel-ay_.


Yeah, it's French.


----------



## aaroc

I'm building a loop for cleaning the radiators and water blocks for 30 min each. Previously I will do the Radiator dance too (Distilled water and white vinegar).
Im using an Aquarium pump (700 l/h), a house water filter and a new clean bucket/plastic trashcan. Do you recommend to use normal garden hose or use WC tubing like primochill for this kind of loop?
Thanks!


----------



## sinnedone

You placed it incorrectly though. Its supposed to be by the window in the front of your house for the whole world to admire its glowing beauty.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> You need a PSU to run all the fans.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NO SEROUSLY how do you connect all those fans I counted 17 I could see and im guessing there are 8 more I can't so HOW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> There's 25 in there so far. Have another 25 to add!
> 
> I haven't exactly decided how yet. The FC10 does 30w per channel so Im not worried about having 12-16 on each one. Modmytoys has a nice little 8 way PCB splitter for $5.99 or I may just make my own cables.
Click to expand...

I has *30* 140mm Cougar fans and one 120mm cougar. Running them all off a Mix2 controller set to 40% power







.


----------



## skupples

OK, last place i'll post it, I promise.

These cases are even more glorious in person, & @Strong Island 1 is a pimp, he packed this thing like it was getting shipped to AFG.


----------



## NASzi

my 2nd attempt at hard tubing



http://minus.com/i/beACzpBXlwvq3

http://minus.com/i/mYTaukFRrPY0

http://minus.com/i/bnDRp8Ai0FP8R


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> my 2nd attempt at hard tubing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://minus.com/i/beACzpBXlwvq3
> 
> http://minus.com/i/mYTaukFRrPY0
> 
> http://minus.com/i/bnDRp8Ai0FP8R


I like it, but I would personally redo the run from CPU to the top rad to mirror the bend in the tube that is below it so that they have matching radii, just my thought.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I like it, but I would personally redo the run from CPU to the top rad to mirror the bend in the tube that is below it so that they have matching radii, just my thought.


I know I was thinking the same thing. Realized it after I got everything installed. The bend needs to be tighter.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> my 2nd attempt at hard tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://minus.com/i/beACzpBXlwvq3
> 
> http://minus.com/i/mYTaukFRrPY0
> 
> http://minus.com/i/bnDRp8Ai0FP8R


Nice work. Very clean.

Now get that GPU wet.


----------



## Devildog83

I am looking at a 360mm radiator and was wondering whether it's better to have a 60mm thick rad with 3 fans in either push or pull or a 40mm thick rad with 6 fans in push/pull? I won't fit a 60mm in push/pull. Thanks.


----------



## 15goudreau

Push pull. It will yield significantly lower temperatures than push or pull and a thicker radiator


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Push pull. *It will yield significantly lower temperatures than push or pull and a thicker radiator*


Not true.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, last place i'll post it, I promise.
> 
> These cases are even more glorious in person, & @Strong Island 1 is a pimp, he packed this thing like it was getting shipped to AFG.


That is a tower or WC parts box?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.


Martins lab have indicated up to 20% drops in temps where a thicker rad are around 5 to 10


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.


Thanks, it would be a bit quieter also right? I am looking at the Alphacool NexXxos 360mm UT60 with some good fans of course.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> That is a tower or WC parts box?


My second hand white STH-10
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Martins lab have indicated up to 20% drops in temps where a thicker rad are around 5 to 10


Multiple variables, but yes.


----------



## 15goudreau

It would depend on the fans but you could run push pull slower than 3 fans push to achieve similar results and I believe the noise would be lower.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.
> 
> 
> 
> Martins lab have indicated up to 20% drops in temps where a thicker rad are around 5 to 10
Click to expand...

You have another point of reference?
Thicker rads benefit more from push/pull,not thinner.
The actual difference is 1.8c at 1200 rpm on a Magicool 360 rad,for twice the noise. The PA rad in push is 0.5c different at 1200 to a Magicool 360 Push/Pull at the same speed. You can get a bigger temp drop with a TIM change.



Also from Martin.


----------



## 15goudreau

He can't do push pull on the thicker radiator, only push or pull.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> He can't do push pull on the thicker radiator, only push or pull.


I know,this is for you and your expectation of significantly lower temps,a good thick rad is well worth the investment over buying more fans,cheaper in the long run and more flexible for later builds.
Managing your expectations and how data actually transfers to real life will save you much money and disappointment.

Believe me,I have spent enough on this niche hobby to know......


----------



## 15goudreau

Right but for my setup, which I was planning on investing in this exact method, I can't fit any radiator other than a 30 mm with push pull. I was told that would be a better investment than a 45 in push or pull only. Was this not correct?


----------



## Devildog83

Thanks all, I think from reading the posts that the UT60 will be fine with 3 fans, It will end up cheaper and somewhat quieter. The difference in cooling if I get the correct fans looks to be nominal at most from what I gather but there may be some. I think the system will still be cool enough.

2 more questions, 1 is intake or exhaust better in say a 750D case, and 2 will there be a huge difference between using 3/8" x 1/2" rigid tubing and 1/2" x 3/4" tubing, cooling wise?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Nice "Major Award" you got in the background there!


Thanks, and it still hasn't been "accidently" broken. *fingers crossed*


----------



## 15goudreau

Tubing has no effect on temperatures pretty much. Also generally intake is better for radiators than exhaust.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Right but for my setup, which I was planning on investing in this exact method, I can't fit any radiator other than a 30 mm with push pull. I was told that would be a better investment than a 45 in push or pull only. Was this not correct?


Unless the thin rad has an insane FPI, then yes, its wrong. Typically the reason you go push/pull is because you need additional static pressure. A thick rad benefits more from this due to the added surface area introduced by the increased depth. If not, you have to spin up to over 2200-2800 rpm *or more* to generate the SP required to get air through the radiator. You can run fans at 1000 P/P and generate similar results.

Additional static pressure is of no benefit to a thin rad with moderate to low FPI. A lot of slim radiators come with moderate to low FPI these days... I think some of the black ice have higher FPI in the 25-30 range. If you have one of these higher FPI rads then P/P could be beneficial if you want to drop the RPM of your fans. If your 30mm rad has less than 15 FPI there is no reason to have P/P at all... ever. Unless perhaps you are running some bargain bin .50 cent fans.

Regardless... a 45mm rad will provide more cooling than a 30mm rad given similar FPI at higher RPM. At lower RPM the thin rads typically win out due to requiring less static pressure... but their cooling potential is also limited.


----------



## 15goudreau

I do have a HL rad with 30 fpi. So I would assume that going push/pull with say AP 15s would net me a significant drop in temps?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Tubing has no effect on temperatures pretty much. Also generally intake is better for radiators than exhaust.


Thanks!!!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been searching for your product everywhere.....
> 
> In the end I had to buy snake oil from someone else.
> Why the filters? You planning on using river water?


Because, when I took my block apart to rotate it and check the direction the cooling fins were going, there was a little bit of radiator dust in it. When I put it together, I was in a rush and didn't flush them with clean water first. I figure it would be better to run a filter for a few days to get that out, rather than tear down everything and deal with that to get it out.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I do have a HL rad with 30 fpi. So I would assume that going push/pull with say AP 15s would net me a significant drop in temps?


You will see better temps than in just push or just pull.. probably not what I would consider significant. I would say the larger benefit will be less noise in P/P at the same performance level.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Here's my first ever custom wc-build, case is a Corsair 600T in white.
> 
> Still on the do to list =>
> *Cut new black acrylic panel to cover the 5,25" bays
> *Sleeving!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That look nice!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Job well done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 600T is the first case I ever watercooled in *tear....always love seeing 600T builds.
> 
> 
> 
> Your 600T build was amazing. Didn't it have the custom acrylic side panel or am I thinking of another build?
Click to expand...

Yep that was it, had the full acrylic from MNPCTech, loved that thing.


Flashing forward though, here are some pics from my current build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Right but for my setup, which I was planning on investing in this exact method, I can't fit any radiator other than a 30 mm with push pull. I was told that would be a better investment than a 45 in push or pull only. Was this not correct?


To me? No. The 45 was a better choice for me.


----------



## BradleyW




----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Looks really good. You could probably clean up the look a little though with some elbow fittings. Good job though!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Looks really good. You could probably clean up the look a little though with some elbow fittings. Good job though!


In May I plan to rebuild the loop and I will use new Fittings for cleaning up.


----------



## iamkraine

Seeing as how my MCP35x failed so quickly. I thought I'd get my next one a heatsink.

Any thoughts on this heatsink:
Part #: ex-pmp-270


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yep that was it, had the full acrylic from MNPCTech, loved that thing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flashing forward though, here are some pics from my current build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you have to snip the PWM header on the pump, sleeve and then resolder? Or can you sleeve the PWM wires without any cutting?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Yep that was it, had the full acrylic from MNPCTech, loved that thing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flashing forward though, here are some pics from my current build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you have to snip the PWM header on the pump, sleeve and then resolder? Or can you sleeve the PWM wires without any cutting?
Click to expand...

You can sleeve the wires with no cutting required.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You can sleeve the wires with no cutting required.


Awesome thank you +rep.


----------



## szeged

Where can I get one of demek acrylic non csq d5 pump tops?


----------



## wermad

Bought a cheap ccfl kit and with a bit of work, took out the bulb to replace the dead one in my FrozenQ FusionX4. This size is a tad longer (looks like oem is 6") but it did go in almost all the way through. I didn't want to risk waiting several months ordering one from FrozenQ, so I went ahead w/ the diy method.



A moment of triumph for diy repair, marred by stupidity







. This order also came w/ my new green switches for my CL. Unfortunately, I didn't realize and read carefully, I ordered latching not momentary switches







. Now to order them again







.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bought a cheap ccfl kit and with a bit of work, took out the bulb to replace the dead one in my FrozenQ FusionX4. This size is a tad longer (looks like oem is 6") but it did go in almost all the way through. I didn't want to risk waiting several months ordering one from FrozenQ, so I went ahead w/ the diy method.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A moment of triumph for diy repair, marred by stupidity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This order also came w/ my new green switches for my CL. Unfortunately, I didn't realize and read carefully, I ordered latching not momentary switches
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now to order them again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Saw this on my facebook feed not too long ago....









https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=697409753634237&set=a.185192874855930.37704.185118654863352&type=1


----------



## Angrychair

so green


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Where can I get one of demek acrylic non csq d5 pump tops?


I bought my pump like this, and that's the top it came with. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21015/ex-pmp-246/EK_D5_X-Top_Pump_Top_w_D5_Vario_Pump_-_Acrylic_EK-D5_Vario_X-TOP_-_Plexi_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s153

Searching around FCPU, I don't see that top for sale by itself. But maybe it's available from another retailer or EK directly.

EDIT: Just quickly searched PPCs, EK's site, and Dazmode and I can't find that exact top by itself.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Hi everyone!
Need help with my drain port... Any idea where to put it?
The 140 UT60 rad had blocked the bottom port... So this is no option..
I was thinking on a drill pump or something....

I will use Koolance RP1250 as a pump/res combo, with outlet to gpu (the front rad-ram-cpu-240 side rad-res/pump)

Suggestions?




Sorry for the chappy cell phone pics


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Saw this on my facebook feed not too long ago....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=697409753634237&set=a.185192874855930.37704.185118654863352&type=1












Its some pc forum site's fb page (spanish). Looks like they're just posting random pics of custom rigs (w/out giving credit). Don't know how they got my stuff on there







.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its some pc forum site's fb page (spanish). Looks like they're just posting random pics of custom rigs (w/out giving credit). Don't know how they got my stuff on there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Certainly got the pic from here at OCN, I've recognized a couple of build from our community on that FB page.


----------



## skupples

*cough* we have a spy *cough*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Certainly got the pic from here at OCN, I've recognized a couple of build from our community on that FB page.


should flame them./


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> so green











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Certainly got the pic from here at OCN, I've recognized a couple of build from our community on that FB page.


Yup, I'm seeing a few rigs by some members here. I left a message to please give credit to the owner and site they pulled it from. There's no other site I've posted this rig on, other then here. Well, cheap and dirty method to get traffic to their fb-page and their site and Likes (







)


----------



## Kimir

Good initiative that you did, I too, don't like this kind of practice. That's why all my images have a watermark, if they cut it, it clearly show their intentions.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Certainly got the pic from here at OCN, I've recognized a couple of build from our community on that FB page.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, I'm seeing a few rigs by some members here. I left a message to please give credit to the owner and site they pulled it from. There's no other site I've posted this rig on, other then here. Well, cheap and dirty method to get traffic to their fb-page and their site and Likes (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Yea good initiative. I should do the same. Maybe if they get enough messages they'll stop that practice....then again, it's a FB group, so probably not.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

FrozenCPU came through and sent me brand new replacement EK blocks. These Acetal/Copper blocks will match my R4BE blocks perfectly.


----------



## stickg1

I've had that happen to me a few times on Facebook and my builds aren't even that awesome. Tom's Hardware at least gave me credit. The other people didn't. One guy was using it on his own page as an advertisement as something he could build for potential clients. Yeah, he got flamed. I'm kind of immature and have a short fuse, lol.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I've had that happen to me a few times on Facebook and my builds aren't even that awesome. Tom's Hardware at least gave me credit. The other people didn't. One guy was using it on his own page as an advertisement as something he could build for potential clients. Yeah, he got flamed. I'm kind of immature and have a short fuse, lol.


Know those feels lol. I found my old Switch 810 being used on a website advertising PC services once. And I've even seen my old 600T being used on YouTube as a couple of people's avatar. SMH


----------



## TwentyCent

Would I run into problems if I decided to use these:


With this, in the 1/2" flavor (12,7mm ID and 15,875mm OD)?:


Surely the difference in OD to 16mm is quite negligible in this case?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Would I run into problems if I decided to use these:
> 
> 
> With this, in the 1/2" flavor (12,7mm ID and 15,875mm OD)?:
> 
> 
> Surely the difference in OD to 16mm is quite negligible in this case?


Yes, you'll run into issues. I tried and it you can't mix-n-match imperial and metric sizes.I actually tried this w/ acrylic. It doesn't hold under pressure and slowly leaks.

You'll need to find metric copper/acrylic to make it work w/ the EK hard metric fittings.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Would I run into problems if I decided to use these:
> 
> 
> With this, in the 1/2" flavor (12,7mm ID and 15,875mm OD)?:
> 
> 
> Surely the difference in OD to 16mm is quite negligible in this case?


I ran a copper 5/8 OD SLI link with EK 16mm fittings and it held up ok. It's not recommended, but it should work ok. Just make sure you leak test and carefully inspect the fittings.


----------



## VSG

New "Nemesis" rads from Hardware Labs: http://www.techpowerup.com/199104/hardware-labs-nemesis-gtx-series-radiators-now-available.html


----------



## wermad

Nice


----------



## VSG

They got 140mm versions as well upto 560mm.


----------



## szeged

2200w of cooling on the 480 rad. I want one but I would rather keep all monstas in the sth10.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They got 140mm versions as well upto 560mm.


Still using the 20mm spacing? I'll pass


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Know those feels lol. I found my old Switch 810 being used on a website advertising PC services once. And I've even seen my old 600T being used on YouTube as a couple of people's avatar. SMH


Iv'e actually seen your 600T in other places before, and your name was NOT attached to it. Didn't know it was yours until you posted that pic a few hours ago.


----------



## VSG

What's with the 20mm spacing issue? I didn't get it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still using the 20mm spacing? I'll pass


Looking @ this thing, I can't believe you fit 560's in the top of an sth-10. You are a mad man.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Looking @ this thing, I can't believe you fit 560's in the top of an sth-10. You are a mad man.


They went below. The 280s I already had and the to CM 1kw psu's went on top. You can still do 560s on top w/ some slight modding on mac-211.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They went below. The 280s I already had and the to CM 1kw psu's went on top. You can still do 560s on top w/ some slight modding on mac-211.


Oii... Forgot about that limitation... Was planning to stick two PSU's & a 480 up top... Guess i'm going to have to do it the same way i'm doing it now. Back to back...(in the requiem for a dream voice)


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Would I run into problems if I decided to use these:
> 
> 
> With this, in the 1/2" flavor (12,7mm ID and 15,875mm OD)?:
> 
> 
> Surely the difference in OD to 16mm is quite negligible in this case?


You should check out the Rocket Science push in fittings - designed for 1/2" copper.
I notice he is now offering worldwide shipping for just $12


----------



## Lefik

I've been waiting excitedly for the release of those radiators since someone posted them here earlier.


----------



## skupples

ohh all copper piping is highly tempting, specially with those fittings!~









I also might have to get the STH-10 sprayed down with a few clear coats. The finish is so delicate.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Oii... Forgot about that limitation... Was planning to stick two PSU's & a 480 up top... Guess i'm going to have to do it the same way i'm doing it now. Back to back...(in the requiem for a dream voice)


Its not too much work. Just a bit of trimming and you can make them work. I ended up placing both of my UT60 560s in the bottom chamber since I could much easier install the 280s on top. It worked out since the both psu's cables are a tad short and the front 420 was better installed w/ the top mid-plate separator removed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> You should check out the Rocket Science push in fittings - designed for 1/2" copper.
> I notice he is now offering worldwide shipping for just $12


Oh, nice! so these are actually imperial 1/2"??? Will keep an eye on this since a 10' length of 1/2" copper pipe (M type) is only $10 (though the tool is three to four times of that vs 3/8" pipe bender).


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Oh, nice! *so these are actually imperial 1/2*"??? Will keep an eye on this since a 10' length of 1/2" copper pipe (M type) is only $10 (though the tool is three to four times of that vs 3/8" pipe bender).


Yes Sir








Rocket Science website and store

and more detailed info
Quote:


> Product Description
> 
> G¼ thread fittings for 12.7mm (half inch) OD tubing.
> Material: Brass
> Finish: Silver Nickel Plating
> 
> In case you're still not sure let me help - yes, you lucky sod, these fittings are for the type of copper pipe you can source in plumbing stores throughout Australian and the United States. Woohoo!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yes Sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rocket Science website and store
> 
> and more detailed info


Hmmm, $100 for a dozen...







...ghost/revolver are ~$7 so its not too far off. Either way, which ever path you take, its gonna end up costing you about the same:

-1/2" copper, tool is like ~$40
-1/2" acrylic, forming tools $40-$70
-12mm copper/acrylic, tube is really expensive. 10' of 12mm copper, is like ~$100.

Sigh, well, I'll leave that in the back burner. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Ragsters

Last time I tried draining my loop I had a real hard time. Is there anything I can use to push the water through? Something like a small hand pump with a G1/4 in thread on the end of it. What if I just pop the tubing off and blow into it as to push the remaining water into the reservoir then using my valve I just drain it like normal. You guys can use my sig rig picture as reference. Thanks in advanced guys!


----------



## VSG

I may go for copper in my next build actually. I have a bunch of experience working with 1/4 and 1/2" copper and SS tubing and I am pretty sure that I have a good 10-20' of both left as well as bending tools and such.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Last time I tried draining my loop I had a real hard time. Is there anything I can use to push the water through? Something like a small hand pump with a G1/4 in thread on the end of it. What if I just pop the tubing off and blow into it as to push the remaining water into the reservoir then using my valve I just drain it like normal. You guys can use my sig rig picture as reference. Thanks in advanced guys!


I end up disconnecting one of the lines and blowing air through it. Not high tech but works.


----------



## szeged

i farted into my fill port and the force shattered all the acrylic tubing

but it got the water out.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I too blow into the loop to free up any coolant that ends up stuck in rads or blocks. This isn't technically proper as you introduce biological items into your sterile loop but if you are using a proper coolant (i.e. with biocides) it shouldn't matter Otherwise, however, the effectiveness of your loop design itself should get it 90-95% drained if properly executed.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I blow compressed air through the top rad ports. That's if I absolutely need the whole thing drained.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Last time I tried draining my loop I had a real hard time. Is there anything I can use to push the water through? Something like a small hand pump with a G1/4 in thread on the end of it. What if I just pop the tubing off and blow into it as to push the remaining water into the reservoir then using my valve I just drain it like normal. You guys can use my sig rig picture as reference. Thanks in advanced guys!


You can get what is called a drill pump, home depot should have them. It is literally a pump that hooks into your drill like a bit.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I end up disconnecting one of the lines and blowing air through it. Not high tech but works.


I was thinking that but I also saw somewhere someone using a siringe looking thing to push the coolant out. I need that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i farted into my fill port and the force shattered all the acrylic tubing but it got the water out.


What else came out?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I too blow into the loop to free up any coolant that ends up stuck in rads or blocks. This isn't technically proper as you introduce biological items into your sterile loop but if you are using a proper coolant (i.e. with biocides) it shouldn't matter Otherwise, however, the effectiveness of your loop design itself should get it 90-95% drained if properly executed.


I'm afraid of the biological properties too. I thought my drain system was pretty good until I added my second radiator on top. Now its just really difficult to get most of the water out. Take a look at my sig rig picture to see if there is anything else I can try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I blow compressed air through the top rad ports. That's if I absolutely need the whole thing drained.


I would think doing this would cause water to go everywhere.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What's with the 20mm spacing issue? I didn't get it.


The issue with 20mm spacing is that there are gaps between the fans. With 15mm spacing, which is the standard with most radiators, the fans sit right against each other so there is no gap. When Thermochill was still around and making radiators and had 20mm spacing, they offered a gasket that sealed the gaps between the fans. I'm not really sure if it have any effect on performance, but I think it just looks better with 15mm spacing rather than 20mm spacing.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I was thinking that but I also saw somewhere someone using a siringe looking thing to push the coolant out. I need that.
> What else came out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm afraid of the biological properties too. I thought my drain system was pretty good until I added my second radiator on top. Now its just really difficult to get most of the water out. Take a look at my sig rig picture to see if there is anything else I can try.
> I would think doing this would cause water to go *everywhere*.


Not if there's only one exit port.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I blow compressed air through the top rad ports. That's if I absolutely need the whole thing drained.


That's what I do as well and it works really well but only if you truly need it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I was thinking that but I also saw somewhere someone using a siringe looking thing to push the coolant out. I need that.
> What else came out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm afraid of the biological properties too. I thought my drain system was pretty good until I added my second radiator on top. Now its just really difficult to get most of the water out. Take a look at my sig rig picture to see if there is anything else I can try.
> I would think doing this would cause water to go everywhere.


Get a simple siphon pump.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> You should check out the Rocket Science push in fittings - designed for 1/2" copper.
> I notice he is now offering worldwide shipping for just $12


I would have bought those in a heart beat but they don't have black versions. They showed a black version in the prototype phase but I guess those didn't make it to full productions









Jeffinslaw


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still using the 20mm spacing? I'll pass


Are there cases that actually use 16mm spacing? When I was looking two years ago pretty much every case I looked at still used 20mm.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are there cases that actually use 16mm spacing? When I was looking two years ago pretty much every case I looked at still used 20mm.


Interesting that my old BlackHawk Ultra had perfect fitting with the bottom UT60. But the top was way off and more likely 20mm. Had to take a drill to it to bore out the holes larger to catch them.

CL makes brackets that covers 15mm-20mm. I had no issues w/ mine except they're not designed for the large M4 screws I converted my UT60s to. Drill to the rescue again


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I was thinking that but I also saw somewhere someone using a siringe looking thing to push the coolant out. I need that.
> What else came out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm afraid of the biological properties too. I thought my drain system was pretty good until I added my second radiator on top. Now its just really difficult to get most of the water out. Take a look at my sig rig picture to see if there is anything else I can try.
> I would think doing this would cause water to go everywhere.


You can always use a drill pump too:

http://www.harborfreight.com/all-purpose-drill-water-pump-34302.html#.UzESXvldUto

Not my idea however. Lot's of people have suggested that before. I would however be careful on recycling the liquid coming out of it. I would use a normal drain to recycle most of the liquid and if I have to get rid of the last bit then I would use the drill pump. One advantage is that you don't blow air in the loop.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still using the 20mm spacing? I'll pass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are there cases that actually use 16mm spacing? When I was looking two years ago pretty much every case I looked at still used 20mm.
Click to expand...

15mm is pretty much the standard these days, because, well, 20mm spacing is an utter waste.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> 15mm is pretty much the standard these days, because, well, 20mm spacing is an utter waste.


We are referring to 140mm radiators. Some cases just allow 16mm spaces while others just use 20mm. It would be nice it everyone would use the same.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I would have bought those in a heart beat but they don't have black versions. They showed a black version in the prototype phase but I guess those didn't make it to full productions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


The finish on the black's didn't pass quality control.
Another batch is in manufacturing process atm I believe.

I'll vouch for the quality of the nickle ones - my 2 dozen are perfect !!

A "stealth" version is also in the making - same fitting but with no knurling which could be interesting.
The grip is so good you can use a tube offcut to tighten / loosen the fittings.

He's also going to to some holding pressure tests soon from what I gather.
The 2 lt bottle hanging off the tube (in the fitting) didn't convince everybody


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still using the 20mm spacing? I'll pass


The Black Ice Nemesis rads use 15mm spacing for 120mm fans and 15.5mm spacing for 140mm fans.


----------



## wermad

Alphacool states there's is 15mm but more looks 16mm. With m4, its a pita sometimes.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The finish on the black's didn't pass quality control.
> Another batch is in manufacturing process atm I believe.
> 
> I'll vouch for the quality of the nickle ones - my 2 dozen are perfect !!
> 
> A "stealth" version is also in the making - same fitting but with no knurling which could be interesting.
> The grip is so good you can use a tube offcut to tighten / loosen the fittings.
> 
> He's also going to to some holding pressure tests soon from what I gather.
> The 2 lt bottle hanging off the tube (in the fitting) didn't convince everybody


So is that the alleged advantage over multilinks?

They look nice, but I can't see why anyone would get them unless you're absolutely dead set on 1/2" tubing for some reason. C47s are just way cheaper, and that's unusual for Bitspower lol.


----------



## kizwan

Some Corsair casings, if not all, also have 20mm spacing for 140mm radiator. Still can mount I think but will need to re-drill if the radiator using M4 screws.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey Kizwan you added the rad yet. ..?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey Kizwan you added the rad yet. ..?


No, not yet. I didn't have the chance to go buy distilled water yet though.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> So is that the alleged advantage over multilinks?
> 
> They look nice, but I *can't see why anyone would get them unless you're absolutely dead set on 1/2" tubing* for some reason. C47s are just way cheaper, and that's unusual for Bitspower lol.


Copper









Australian copper sizing is almost all imperial, as is American I believe.

The C47's are metric for 12mm OD tubing.

The Rocket Science are true Imperial size for 1/2" tubing - approx 12.7mm.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Yeah I got that, I was just wondering if they are better than C47s in any way. I know it is easier to find 1/2" copper tubing in the states, but aside from that are there any advantages to these fittings?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Yeah I got that, I was just wondering if they are better than C47s in any way. I know it is easier to find 1/2" copper tubing in the states, but aside from that are there any advantages to these fittings?


They are basically the same design but for different size tube.
And I like to support our local scene if possible


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still using the 20mm spacing? I'll pass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Black Ice Nemesis rads use 15mm spacing for 120mm fans and 15.5mm spacing for 140mm fans.
Click to expand...

This.
HWL have never had 20mm spacing so im not sure where he got that from,only Thermochill used 20mm spacing for 120 rads.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Know those feels lol. I found my old Switch 810 being used on a website advertising PC services once. And I've even seen my old 600T being used on YouTube as a couple of people's avatar. SMH
> 
> 
> 
> Iv'e actually seen your 600T in other places before, and your name was NOT attached to it. Didn't know it was yours until you posted that pic a few hours ago.
Click to expand...

Damn....nope, it was mine, long ago.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










^For a good laugh


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can always use a drill pump too:
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/all-purpose-drill-water-pump-34302.html#.UzESXvldUto
> 
> Not my idea however. Lot's of people have suggested that before. I would however be careful on recycling the liquid coming out of it. I would use a normal drain to recycle most of the liquid and if I have to get rid of the last bit then I would use the drill pump. One advantage is that you don't blow air in the loop.


Yeah I posted this here a month or so ago ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, I have used a drill pump that I connect to a cordless drill to make for speedy draining. After connecting it to my drain line and then opening a fill port it takes about 20-30 seconds to drain my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> I really just hooked it up almost as a joke after someone in another thread was complaining about how long it took to drain their loop. They were asking about using a schrader valve in a fitting like one might use to air pressure leak test a loop with a bicycle pump to speed up draining, and I suggested using a small pump like this on the drain line would probably be a better alternative. I already had the pump and all I needed was the fittings. Turns out it was easy to employ and it works rather well.


I have fill ports in the top and a drain at the very bottom of my loop, and all my rads are horizontally mounted, so it drains very well without any need for a pump, but I still have found using the drill pump does speed things up a bit plus, besides being rather inexpensive as long as you already have a drill,, it has the advantage that it is self-priming, meaning it pumps/pulls air as well as water, so it can suck or 'pull' water through a hose to the pump, as opposed to most watercooling pumps that need to have water primed to the pump or it can be damaged. I've found it useful to use the drill pump before I disassemble anything in my loop as it will suck air through the just-drained loop which helps to pull last remnants of water from certain places where it otherwise tends to stay when draining normally and would dribble out later when I'm disconnecting hoses.

I would also think that if you had rads that were mounted horizontally a drill pump or the like would come in handy to pull fluid out that otherwise might be hard to drain out normally.

Also, I would hope that it would go without saying, but I'll say it anyway, you should always make sure to have some sort of fill port opened up to let air in before using any type of pump to drain your loop.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Haha, that's the video I remember Mike!


----------



## chino1974

Guys I have a question. I am using Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry in my newest loop. I am also using 1/2" × 3/4" clear tubing and Koolance VL3N-F13-19S QDC's. My question is will the Koolance QDC's cause amy restriction in flow with the Mayjems Pastel ? Any help with this question will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance to anyone who helps.


----------



## ReXtN

Nehh, I don't think the QDC's will restrict your flow much..


----------



## 15goudreau

Yeah you should be fine. If you do have any issues get another pump to increase flow, as that is what keeps the particles in suspension.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I have a question. I am using Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry in my newest loop. I am also using 1/2" × 3/4" clear tubing and Koolance VL3N-F13-19S QDC's. My question is will the Koolance QDC's cause amy restriction in flow with the Mayjems Pastel ? Any help with this question will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance to anyone who helps.


Im using this too, but the push click kind instead of the twist kind.. but I would guess they are quite similar. With 1/2 x 3/4 tubes, you wont see any restrictions with QDCs. you will see that the minute you twist two together and blow through it (or poor water through it) it is an amazing product imo








I use them to connect my external radiator, and dont see any extra restrictions.


----------



## chino1974

Thanks for the info guys. All of you get reps. Lol!! I forgot to mention I'm using 2 alphacool vpp655 d5 pumps on a Bitspower dual d5 pump top with the mod kits. So pump wise I should be all set. The whole specs to my loop are as follow.

EK Supremacy non-csq full nickel cpu block
3x XSPC Raystorm universal gpu blocks for the non rreference 7970s
EK XTX 360mm rad
Swiftech MCR420QP 480mm rad
Koolance 240mm rad
EK dual bay spinner res acetal body clear non-csq frontplate
Primochill lrt advanced 1/2"×3/4" crystal clear tubing
Bitspower silver 1/2"×3/4" compression fittings
15x assorted Bitspower angled rotary fittings
Bitspower ball valve for drain port
NZXT FZ series 120mm fans on 480 and 360 rads in push pull
Prolimatech Ultra Sleek 12 120mm thin fans for 240mm rad in push pull
3x Phanteks PH-F140SP case fans 2 front intake 1 rear exhaust
Fans are controlled by Lamptron FC touch fan controller

This is cooling a 3930k that up till now has been running at 4.8Ghz 24/7 and 3 7970's at 1200 core 1600 memory.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> HWL have never had 20mm spacing so im not sure where he got that from,only Thermochill used 20mm spacing for 120 rads.


The 140MM SR1s and GTX definitely use 20mm spacing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> HWL have never had 20mm spacing so im not sure where he got that from,only Thermochill used 20mm spacing for 120 rads.
> 
> 
> 
> The 140MM SR1s and GTX definitely use 20mm spacing.
Click to expand...

I'm only speaking about 120 format rads,140 rads have a hotch potch of spacings right now,they will find the happy medium soon no doubt.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> So is that the alleged advantage over multilinks?
> 
> They look nice, but I can't see why anyone would get them unless you're absolutely dead set on 1/2" tubing for some reason. C47s are just way cheaper, and that's unusual for Bitspower lol.


C47's aren't cheaper here, but the point of the fittings was that metric 12mm copper pipe is non existant here. Saate, who makes the fittings originally had to have some 12mm copper pipe custom made for a build.
1/2 inch copper is easy to find though, frustratingly enough in supposedly metric Australia.

Edit: Derp, Fate was fast and already covered that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They got 140mm versions as well upto 560mm.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still using the 20mm spacing? I'll pass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The 140MM SR1s and GTX definitely use 20mm spacing.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks for clearing it Low











http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_458&products_id=27523

After all this time, you would think HL would drop the price on the top tier rads considering other entries are much less expensive and perform better. Well, hope they price the new rads properly


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> C47's aren't cheaper here, but the point of the fittings was that metric 12mm copper pipe is non existant here. Saate, who makes the fittings originally had to have some 12mm copper pipe custom made for a build.
> 1/2 inch copper is easy to find though, frustratingly enough in supposedly metric Australia.
> 
> Edit: Derp, Fate was fate and already covered that.


Makes sense, I should have thought about how parts are more expensive down under. Anyway wasn't trying to bash them or anything, they do look nice. Just wanted to see if it would make sense someone in the states to go with these over C47s if they didn't have a tubing size preference.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The finish on the black's didn't pass quality control.
> Another batch is in manufacturing process atm I believe.
> 
> I'll vouch for the quality of the nickle ones - my 2 dozen are perfect !!
> 
> A "stealth" version is also in the making - same fitting but with no knurling which could be interesting.
> The grip is so good you can use a tube offcut to tighten / loosen the fittings.
> 
> He's also going to to some holding pressure tests soon from what I gather.
> The 2 lt bottle hanging off the tube (in the fitting) didn't convince everybody


Aw this makes me happy







do you have the link to the development thread? I came across it but have forgotten it. Would love to see the latest progress. This look remarkably similar to the Bitspower C47, something I else I really like about them.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks for clearing it Low
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_458&products_id=27523
> 
> After all this time, you would think HL would drop the price on the top tier rads considering other entries are much less expensive and perform better. Well, hope they price the new rads properly


The SR-1 560 a couple bucks cheaper here in Malaysia, ~$195.28. HL cheaper than Alphacool in Malaysia because HL available locally while Alphacool is not but that doesn't stop many people from getting Alphacool though. I'll stick with HL because it's easier & cheaper to get.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Aw this makes me happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you have the link to the development thread? I came across it but have forgotten it. Would love to see the latest progress. This look remarkably similar to the Bitspower C47, something I else I really like about them.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


[Worklog] Rocket Science: Creating fittings for Aussie copper pipe (21/3 Fit secureness tests)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> [Worklog] Rocket Science: Creating fittings for Aussie copper pipe (21/3 Fit secureness tests)


That polish work turned out amazingly


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmmm, $100 for a dozen...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...ghost/revolver are ~$7 so its not too far off. Either way, which ever path you take, its gonna end up costing you about the same:
> 
> -1/2" copper, tool is like ~$40
> -1/2" acrylic, forming tools $40-$70
> -12mm copper/acrylic, tube is really expensive. 10' of 12mm copper, is like ~$100.
> 
> Sigh, well, I'll leave that in the back burner. Thanks for the info.


----------



## snef

some pics of my GPU loop









the 6 fitings on GPU are painted one, they are exact same as original white C47


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm only speaking about 120 format rads,140 rads have a hotch potch of spacings right now,they will find the happy medium soon no doubt.


Interesting. In any case, for this time around the Nemesis rads are 15mm for 120's and 15.5mm for 140's... But why make them different at all? Was 15mm too small to account for 140mm fan bezel variances between brands?

Also, I'd like a comparison between the EK Coolstream PE Rads and the Black Ice Nemesis Rads. Both are new with zero useful reviews. You would think they would want some press coverage ready for the release dates.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The SR-1 560 a couple bucks cheaper here in Malaysia, ~$195.28. HL cheaper than Alphacool in Malaysia because HL available locally while Alphacool is not but that doesn't stop many people from getting Alphacool though. I'll stick with HL because it's easier & cheaper to get.


Mainly the 140mm rads in the US are priced quite high from HL:

GTX 560 ~$198 USD
SR1 560 ~$198 USD
UT60 560 ~$117 USD
Monsta 560 ~$178 USD

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457_458&zenid=6b248318e08929dec0048afad7e1eca1

They had a wide range of 140mm rads for a few years and hence why they commanded such high prices for the upper tier rads. But in the last 2 years, especially w/ Alphacool rads, there's been a huge influx of better priced and performing rads. The 120mm radiator market is much more competitive and prices tend to be closer to the rest of the pack.

I'm happy w/ Alphacool rads. I tapped all of mine successfully to M4 screws and I haven't had any issues.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> [Worklog] Rocket Science: Creating fittings for Aussie copper pipe (21/3 Fit secureness tests)


Thanks! +rep!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## dallas1990

My first custom water loop build







[/URL]


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm only speaking about 120 format rads,140 rads have a hotch potch of spacings right now,they will find the happy medium soon no doubt.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. In any case, for this time around the *Nemesis rads are 15mm for 120's and 15.5mm for 140's*... But why make them different at all? Was 15mm too small to account for 140mm fan bezel variances between brands?
> 
> Also, I'd like a comparison between the EK Coolstream PE Rads and the Black Ice Nemesis Rads. Both are new with zero useful reviews. You would think they would want some press coverage ready for the release dates.
Click to expand...

Glad to see the 140 sized rads go to the more common spacing, or at least really close to it.

Would be really nice if HWL spaced all their 140 sizes similarly.

One of the downsides to having 20mm spacing between the fans, besides the gap, was that it made the core length 5mm more for each fan after the first.

The 420's were 10mm longer than they had to be, and the 560 was 15mm longer that it had to be.

It created a disadvantage to fitting a HWL rad, where otherwise it would have fit nicely.

Darlene


----------



## lowfat

Now only if all case manufacturers would use 15.5mm spacing for 140mm mounts.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of my GPU loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 6 fitings on GPU are painted one, they are exact same as original white C47


Awesome work. Looks really clean


----------



## wermad

Was going to buy a DD Double Wide 29 case w/ support for three 560s and another three 280s. Well, after finding out the spacing was 20mm, I lost interest. Would have been nice to throw in three Monsta 560s in that bad boy, but in the end, it wasn't meant to be. Being acrylic, modding was definitely plausible but I was really looking for something turn key (as much as possible). So I just threw in the towel and a crap load of money into a brand new STH10 that easily swallows a few 560s (four if you use the psu mounting bracket).


----------



## derickwm

So when are you getting a pedestal wermad?


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Simplynicko

drool;


----------



## Gunderman456

My 5 fan controller is taken up by fans and mobo is maxed.

With more fans in my case, (all 4 pin that can't fit in 3 pin adapters), what do you recommend to have them hooked up, powered and controllable but sit in the case rather then out?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> My 5 fan controller is taken up by fans and mobo is maxed.
> 
> With more fans in my case, (all 4 pin that can't fit in 3 pin adapters), what do you recommend to have them hooked up, powered and controllable but sit in the case rather then out?


could always look into an Aqua Computer Aquaero 5 or 6.


----------



## Gunderman456

Does the 5 come with cable extensions to reach some of the 4 pin cables?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


D5 > MCP35X


















I kidd I kidd, don't wanna start a firestorm....I was just using a MCP35X in my last build.


----------



## Anoxy

Damn Snef, super unique. Love that.


----------



## ccRicers

Would that EK heatsink fit with my Swiftech MCP35X?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Know those feels lol. I found my old Switch 810 being used on a website advertising PC services once. And I've even seen my old 600T being used on YouTube as a couple of people's avatar. SMH


Lol, look what I found on FB!











In fairness I don't think he's claiming its his, just using your pic...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Would that EK heatsink fit with my Swiftech MCP35X?


Yes, that's what I'm using


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> So when are you getting a pedestal wermad?


I'm good. It's sitting on my desk, so no need for a taller tower


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yes, that's what I'm using


youre not using a 35x top.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yes, that's what I'm using


Thanks, it's next on my buy list now.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> youre not using a 35x top.


LOL, correct, but test it does work


----------



## skupples

The stock MCP35X tops should sync with the EK heatsink kits just fine.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> LOL, correct, but test it does work


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The stock MCP35X tops should sync with the EK heatsink kits just fine.


thats awesome because not knowing is why i never got a pair of those housings.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> thats awesome because not knowing is why i never got a pair of those housings.


I should add that you need different screws for it to work


----------



## wermad

Swiftech MCP35X + EK DDC CSQ acetal top + EK DDC Heatsink/housing:


----------



## pc-illiterate

my 35x2 housing didnt come with these screws
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12202/ex-pmp-125/Swiftech_MCP35X-H_Pump_Housing_Top_-_Acetal_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-35035535X.html?tl=g30c107s1806#blank

it came with coarse thread machine screws. not this actual but, yeah this type
http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/partNumber/262132/ACP/Screws/8-X-1-1|2-Self-Tapping-Screws-Combo-Pan-Head-Type-A-Steel-Zinc


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> my 35x2 housing didnt come with these screws
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12202/ex-pmp-125/Swiftech_MCP35X-H_Pump_Housing_Top_-_Acetal_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-35035535X.html?tl=g30c107s1806#blank
> 
> it came with coarse thread machine screws. not this actual but, yeah this type
> http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/partNumber/262132/ACP/Screws/8-X-1-1|2-Self-Tapping-Screws-Combo-Pan-Head-Type-A-Steel-Zinc


ok, due to those screw discrepancies I think you're better off getting a top too. I'd offer a free pair of frosted csq ek tops if you want to ditch your x2 top


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> my 35x2 housing didnt come with these screws
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12202/ex-pmp-125/Swiftech_MCP35X-H_Pump_Housing_Top_-_Acetal_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-35035535X.html?tl=g30c107s1806#blank
> 
> it came with coarse thread machine screws. not this actual but, yeah this type
> http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/partNumber/262132/ACP/Screws/8-X-1-1|2-Self-Tapping-Screws-Combo-Pan-Head-Type-A-Steel-Zinc


Yeah... the stock screws have a strange threading. (not the ones included for mounting)



Still trying to figure this bit out, as the EK syncs come with screws, and my XSPC top came with screws.


----------



## pc-illiterate

thats temping but, the 35x2 is the best top for the ddc-1t says bundy. now im confused.
lol no but thanks. i dont look at my pc so all the pretties dont matter. sitting under my desk no one sees it. i also dont like the top inlet. when i get my 200x400 rad im eliminating the res and going with a dd fillport/res. i dont like the blender sound top inlets make. but damn that is a sweet offer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah... the stock screws have a strange threading. (not the ones included for mounting)


yeah, its a self tapping though the top comes tapped for threads that are the same as the ek screws/bolts.


----------



## kpoeticg

Hrmmmm, i don't remember my XSPC x3 Top coming with screws. I used the ones that came with the EK Housings. I think they have a long unthreaded shoulder on em


----------



## Errorist66

Just finished adding a second GPU, a second pump, 2 more RAD to my RIG. Also did the Rigbuilder and realised why people set a budget before they start this.









I think I should be benching it for a while.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hrmmmm, i don't remember my XSPC x3 Top coming with screws. I used the ones that came with the EK Housings. I think they have a long unthreaded shoulder on em


That's what the top came with.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol oops. Guess that's what i used then.









Wait, no i must not've used those cuz i screwed the vibration dampening screws into the bottom of em.

I dunno, i gotta take the whole thing apart in the next cpl days anyway to try to inspect for any damage from any of the pumps running dry.

Guess i don't remember...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol oops. Guess that's what i used then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, no i must not've used those cuz i screwed the vibration dampening screws into the bottom of em.
> 
> I dunno, i gotta take the whole thing apart in the next cpl days anyway to try to inspect for any damage from any of the pumps running dry.
> 
> Guess i don't remember...


gotta check for the cavitation too man, cuz you know...


----------



## wermad

Ek top comes w/ its own M4 screws but you don't need them since the Heatsink kit comes with a new set of special screws. These are to attach the top to the housing but the heads are M4 thread to install the rubber posts. Here's a small hex point inside the head of the top screws to tighten them.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> gotta check for the cavitation too man, cuz you know...


Lol yes, i live in fear of the cavitation =)

I don't even know what that means tbh, i've really only run em for a leaktest though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ek top comes w/ its own M4 screws but you don't need them since the Heatsink kit comes with a new set of special screws. These are to attach the top to the housing but the heads are M4 thread to install the rubber posts. Here's a small hex point inside the head of the top screws to tighten them.


Yeah i def used the ones that came with the heatsink housing then. Maybe i got em confused, i thought they had the unthreaded shoulder on em

It's the XSPC Top for the x3. EK doesn't make one


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Lol yes, i live in fear of the cavitation =)
> I don't even know what that means tbh, i've really only run em for a leaktest though.
> 
> Yeah i def used the ones that came with the heatsink housing then. Maybe i got em confused, i thought they had the unthreaded shoulder on em
> 
> It's the XSPC Top for the x3. EK doesn't make one


It has to do with pockets of air forming, then imploding when exposed to pressure change. Best example is to look @ the boat propeller. You will see air bubbles forming around the prop.


Spoiler: Warning: CAVITATION!!



what cavitation looks like


Damage cavitation can cause.

Quote:


> Cavitation is the formation of vapour cavities in a liquid - i.e. small liquid-free zones ("bubbles" or "voids") - that are the consequence of forces acting upon the liquid. It usually occurs when a liquid is subjected to rapid changes of pressure that cause the formation of cavities where the pressure is relatively low. When subjected to higher pressure, the voids implode and can generate an intense shockwave.
> Cavitation is a significant cause of wear in some engineering contexts. Collapsing voids that implode near to a metal surface cause cyclic stress through repeated implosion. This results in surface fatigue of the metal causing a type of wear also called "cavitation". The most common examples of this kind of wear are to pump impellers, and bends where a sudden change in the direction of liquid occurs. Cavitation is usually divided into two classes of behavior: inertial (or transient) cavitation and non-inertial cavitation.


Great thing about cavitation in a pump environment, you can hear it. it will sound like you have pop rocks in your pump.

I have yet to ever see anyone post pics of torn up impellers, we may be the first.


----------



## kpoeticg

Interesting. Well, if running 3 DDC's means that's gonna happen to one of em, then i already made the mistake by buying the 3rd. Guess we'll just have to see what happens. I doubt something that drastic would happen during a leaktest.

Definitely something to keep an eye (or ear) out for =)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Interesting. Well, if running 3 DDC's means that's gonna happen to one of em, then i already made the mistake by buying the 3rd. Guess we'll just have to see what happens. I doubt something that drastic would happen during a leaktest.
> 
> Definitely something to keep an eye (or ear) out for =)


Not that I don't believe it can't happen. I feel like it could definitely be an issue if running all of them @ 100%. I also feel like some one some where would have had this happen to them @ some point in time, and we would then have people linking empirical evidence when the topic comes up.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, 35x3 at full duty cycle is pretty ferocious. I can't see any logical reason to run em at full blast except for fishing for leaks


----------



## aaroc

Building my cleaning loop. It was very difficult to get an empty clean bucket ("tineta multiuso"), here they only sell them with paint or other construction materials. This comes without a top. one bottle of white vinegar, a meter cup, some hose clamps and 10 meters of "leveling" clear 1/2 ID hose.


One of two AlphaCool Radiators. I got lucky and the fins are almost perfect, but the outside side walls don't have a perfect painting, but its minimal, you have to see in angle.










A picture of the inside of the radiator


After the radiator dance I have distilled water + vinegar all over me. And this is what came out of one of the radiators on the first flush.


Then I built the cleaning loop. It leaked from in and out ports of the filter as I used garden hose barbs that have a very small threads. I had to use Teflon tape to stop the leaks. One of the barbs on the radiator became loose when fixing the leak on the filter and another leak. How do you disassemble a loop? You first take the tube out of the barb and then unscrew the barb from the water block?
Here a picture of the Aquarium pump (700l/h) inside the bucket.


Success! After fixing all leaks the water started to come back to the bucket. To get the air out of the radiator I had to put it vertically with the barbs ups.


A panoramic view of the cleaning loop working. The trashcan is not part of the loop.

I'm super hiper mega ultra mega happy!
I will put more pictures in my build log.


----------



## kpoeticg

Looks good









Maybe cover the bucket with something though to keep random debris out while your flushing. Even a towel or sheet or something


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe cover the bucket with something though to keep random debris out while your flushing. Even a towel or sheet or something


I wrapped a cloth around the end of the hose to stop debris.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Interesting. Well, if running 3 DDC's means that's gonna happen to one of em, then i already made the mistake by buying the 3rd. Guess we'll just have to see what happens. I doubt something that drastic would happen during a leaktest.
> 
> Definitely something to keep an eye (or ear) out for =)
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I don't believe it can't happen. I feel like it could definitely be an issue if running all of them @ 100%. I also feel like some one some where would have had this happen to them @ some point in time, and we would then have people linking empirical evidence when the topic comes up.
Click to expand...

You would need a high speed camera,a crystal clear top and plenty of time on your hands to prove cavitation issues.
Essentially,you would need to record high speed footage thru the top and watch for bubbles forming on the leading edges of the impeller at high speed. How worthwhile that would be is open to interpretation,im not entirely sure that impellers cavitate like traditional props as the coolant is drawn thru the impeller and flung out rather than using screw kinetics of the normal prop


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Interesting. Well, if running 3 DDC's means that's gonna happen to one of em, then i already made the mistake by buying the 3rd. Guess we'll just have to see what happens. I doubt something that drastic would happen during a leaktest.
> 
> Definitely something to keep an eye (or ear) out for =)
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I don't believe it can't happen. I feel like it could definitely be an issue if running all of them @ 100%. I also feel like some one some where would have had this happen to them @ some point in time, and we would then have people linking empirical evidence when the topic comes up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You would need a high speed camera,a crystal clear top and plenty of time on your hands to prove cavitation issues.
> Essentially,you would need to record high speed footage thru the top and watch for bubbles forming on the leading edges of the impeller at high speed. How worthwhile that would be is open to interpretation,im not entirely sure that impellers cavitate like traditional props as the coolant is drawn thru the impeller and flung out rather than using screw kinetics of the normal prop
Click to expand...

Impellers cavitate just like a prop or hydrofoil can cavitate.

Any time you have a shape moving thru the water, or water moving past a shape, that creates a lower pressure area on one side of it by accelerating the flow rate across it compared to the other side, you can have cavitation.

Cavitation is water being vaporized by frictional heating, and reduced pressure within a localized region, into vapor bubbles that when they collapse, allow water to fill the empty space at supersonic velocities.

The surface of an prop or impeller or hydrofoil that's experienced significant cavitation, looks like the lunar surface, full of pock marks and gouges.

Ongoing cavitation leaves permanent damage in it's wake.

For pumps, when cavitation occurs, it sounds like it has little rocks in it.

Darlene


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Building my cleaning loop. It was very difficult to get an empty clean bucket ("tineta multiuso"), here they only sell them with paint or other construction materials. This comes without a top. one bottle of white vinegar, a meter cup, some hose clamps and 10 meters of "leveling" clear 1/2 ID hose.
> 
> 
> One of two AlphaCool Radiators. I got lucky and the fins are almost perfect, but the outside side walls don't have a perfect painting, but its minimal, you have to see in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A picture of the inside of the radiator
> 
> 
> After the radiator dance I have distilled water + vinegar all over me. And this is what came out of one of the radiators on the first flush.
> 
> 
> Then I built the cleaning loop. It leaked from in and out ports of the filter as I used garden hose barbs that have a very small threads. I had to use Teflon tape to stop the leaks. One of the barbs on the radiator became loose when fixing the leak on the filter and another leak. How do you disassemble a loop? You first take the tube out of the barb and then unscrew the barb from the water block?
> Here a picture of the Aquarium pump (700l/h) inside the bucket.
> 
> 
> Success! After fixing all leaks the water started to come back to the bucket. To get the air out of the radiator I had to put it vertically with the barbs ups.
> 
> 
> A panoramic view of the cleaning loop working. The trashcan is not part of the loop.
> 
> I'm super hiper mega ultra mega happy!
> I will put more pictures in my build log.


can you show pics of the after and any debris. I was thinking about doing this. just want to know if its worth it


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks similar to my kitty litter flusher lol, but I didn't use that filter but one for a fridge water filter (cost $15ish at Home Depot)


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks similar to my kitty litter flusher lol, but I didn't use that filter but one for a fridge water filter (cost $15ish at Home Depot)


whats a kitty litter flusher if you dont mind me asking?


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> whats a kitty litter flusher if you dont mind me asking?


^ -- this ---v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And my Tidy cat flushing system is set up lol


Quite a few others around here, including myself, and kpoeticg, and skupples, etc (just to name a few) have built similar flushing kits. I'm not convinced it was 'worth it', as the most debris seems to come out during the initial 'partial fill, shake-shake & drain', but on close up inspection some finer particulate does get caught up in the filter and it does provide some extra peace-of-mind.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Interesting. Well, if running 3 DDC's means that's gonna happen to one of em, then i already made the mistake by buying the 3rd. Guess we'll just have to see what happens. I doubt something that drastic would happen during a leaktest.
> 
> Definitely something to keep an eye (or ear) out for =)
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I don't believe it can't happen. I feel like it could definitely be an issue if running all of them @ 100%. I also feel like some one some where would have had this happen to them @ some point in time, and we would then have people linking empirical evidence when the topic comes up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You would need a high speed camera,a crystal clear top and plenty of time on your hands to prove cavitation issues.
> Essentially,you would need to record high speed footage thru the top and watch for bubbles forming on the leading edges of the impeller at high speed. How worthwhile that would be is open to interpretation,im not entirely sure that impellers cavitate like traditional props as the coolant is drawn thru the impeller and flung out rather than using screw kinetics of the normal prop
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Impellers cavitate just like a prop or hydrofoil can cavitate.
> 
> Any time you have a shape moving thru the water, or water moving past a shape, that creates a lower pressure area on one side of it by accelerating the flow rate across it compared to the other side, you can have cavitation.
> 
> Cavitation is water being vaporized by frictional heating, and reduced pressure within a localized region, into vapor bubbles that when they collapse, allow water to fill the empty space at supersonic velocities.
> 
> The surface of an prop or impeller or hydrofoil that's experienced significant cavitation, looks like the lunar surface, full of pock marks and gouges.
> 
> Ongoing cavitation leaves permanent damage in it's wake.
> 
> For pumps, when cavitation occurs, it sounds like it has little rocks in it.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I'm aware of how cavitation occurs,I was big into nuc boats as a kiddie,the difference for me is the confined space will enhance the pressure in the top. Pressure squashes cavitation nicely. I have yet to see cavitation damage in a CH pump which is much closer to the pumps we use than hydrofoils and sub screws. Airlocks also have the gravel truck sound.
I have seen speed screws from various nuc subs,they get really chewed up.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*


Lmao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> ^ -- this ---v
> Quite a few others around here, including myself, and kpoeticg, and skupples, etc (just to name a few) have built similar flushing kits. I'm not convinced it was 'worth it', as the most debris seems to come out during the initial 'partial fill, shake-shake & drain', but on close up inspection some finer particulate does get caught up in the filter and it does provide some extra peace-of-mind.


Yeah I'm not sure how well the pump through filter method really worked but I can say I've had no issues with flow or debris in my loop.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still trying to figure this bit out, as the EK syncs come with screws, and my XSPC top came with screws.


I'm trying to figure it out as well. So the Swiftech pump isn't tapped for M4 as standard? Instead it comes with self-tapping screw of an unknown specification.

Will I need to tap M4 myself to get the bolts included with the EK-DDC heatsink to fit in my MCP35X?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm trying to figure it out as well. So the Swiftech pump isn't tapped for M4 as standard? Instead it comes with self-tapping screw of an unknown specification.
> 
> Will I need to tap M4 myself to get the bolts included with the EK-DDC heatsink to fit in my MCP35X?


Yes you will need to tap the threads yourself.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> can you show pics of the after and any debris. I was thinking about doing this. just want to know if its worth it


Take a look at my S3 build log, I've got a similar setup, with pictures of all the debris that came out.


----------



## troy0818




----------



## Faster_is_better

Is it a big deal to tap acrylic? I had an idea bout tapping an extra g1/4 hole in my xspc bay res.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm trying to figure it out as well. So the Swiftech pump isn't tapped for M4 as standard? Instead it comes with self-tapping screw of an unknown specification.
> 
> Will I need to tap M4 myself to get the bolts included with the EK-DDC heatsink to fit in my MCP35X?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yes you will need to tap the threads yourself.


possibly not as my 35x2 top was tapped already. swiftech by the way, is an american company and im assuming those threads are imperial and 8-32 threaded. furthermore, the screws that come with the ek heatsink are too long. the difference between other aftermarket tops and the 35x top is huge. compare the thickness for yourself.

the anti-vibration screws i got from ek were about 1/4" (total) too long to the shoulder at least for the stock housing plus the 35x2 top. the 35x tops are not deep enough to allow the screw to fully thread into the top. about 1/8" of spacers/washers may have worked though. and im pretty sure swiftech taps for 8-32 while ek is m4.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Is it a big deal to tap acrylic? I had an idea bout tapping an extra g1/4 hole in my xspc bay res.


Nope,tapped lots of acrylic...

These are XSPC bays for Arctic Water.



11.8mm drill and a drill press then a 1/4 plug tap.


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope,tapped lots of acrylic...
> 
> These are XSPC bays for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> 
> 11.8mm drill and a drill press then a 1/4 plug tap.


stress the need for a PRESS. the hole's gotta be square on the surface.
leakage galore if done with a hand drill.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope,tapped lots of acrylic...
> 
> These are XSPC bays for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> 
> 11.8mm drill and a drill press then a 1/4 plug tap.


Did you buy the copper surround or make it ? That looks pretty sweet.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Is it a big deal to tap acrylic? I had an idea bout tapping an extra g1/4 hole in my xspc bay res.
> 
> 
> 
> Nope,tapped lots of acrylic...
> 
> These are XSPC bays for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> 
> 11.8mm drill and a drill press then a 1/4 plug tap.
Click to expand...

I figured it was no problem. I would definitely use a press and go slow so as to not crack it. I was thinking it might be a good place for a drain in the bottom of the res, or maybe to put a temp sensor in.

Thanks for the bit size, I'll make a note of that.


----------



## Gunderman456

Due to popular demand and constructive criticism I received from this Club, I incorporated a Radiator Fan Shroud, instead of just radiator brackets.

This was mainly accomplished to create some distance between the top fan on the 240mm radiator in order to increase the cool air flow pushing through the top of the radiator.

The shroud concept would also allow to increase the exhaust capability of the bottom fan for improved ejection of the hot air from the case.

I also incorporated a filter on the top push fan.



More pics in The Hawaiian Heat Wave Build Log (in sig).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope,tapped lots of acrylic...
> 
> These are XSPC bays for Arctic Water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 11.8mm drill and a drill press then a 1/4 plug tap.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you buy the copper surround or make it ? That looks pretty sweet.
Click to expand...

Made it. Arctic Water log is in my sig,Bittech MOTM winner for last May i think it was.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Made it. Arctic Water log is in my sig,Bittech MOTM winner for last May i think it was.


Congratulations! I really like the copper work you did with this. It's very clean and compliments the rest of the system.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Due to popular demand and constructive criticism I received from this Club, I incorporated a Radiator Fan Shroud, instead of just radiator brackets.
> 
> This was mainly accomplished to create some distance between the top fan on the 240mm radiator in order to increase the cool air flow pushing through the top of the radiator.
> 
> The shroud concept would also allow to increase the exhaust capability of the bottom fan for improved ejection of the hot air from the case.
> 
> I also incorporated a filter on the top push fan.
> 
> More pics in The Hawaiian Heat Wave Build Log (in sig).


Nice man, looks good, hopefully it performs well too


----------



## skupples




----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Nice man, looks good, hopefully it performs well too


Thanks stickg1!


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is some serious DEMCiflexification right there. I'm a fan too.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope,tapped lots of acrylic...
> 
> These are XSPC bays for Arctic Water.
> 
> 11.8mm drill and a drill press then a 1/4 plug tap.


Hi B-

Is there a reason that you don't start with a tapered tap? Not much point or some other reason? Going to be tapping an acrylic midplate soon for a pass through fitting, the hole is larger if that makes any difference but grateful of any tips as I've never done it before.


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Made it. Arctic Water log is in my sig,Bittech MOTM winner for last May i think it was.


Love it...Is that 1/2" copper? Also what bender did you use? Very nicely done color scheme too...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Does anybody know where I could find 5mm OD nickel plated copper tube?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Does anybody know where I could find 5mm OD nickel plated copper tube?


Ooo, watcha makin?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ooo, watcha makin?


A replacement pipe for my VRM heat sink on the Rampage 4 Black. I cut mine off. I don't want to wait until I need one to make it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> possibly not as my 35x2 top was tapped already. swiftech by the way, is an american company and im assuming those threads are imperial and 8-32 threaded. furthermore, the screws that come with the ek heatsink are too long. the difference between other aftermarket tops and the 35x top is huge. compare the thickness for yourself.
> 
> the anti-vibration screws i got from ek were about 1/4" (total) too long to the shoulder at least for the stock housing plus the 35x2 top. the 35x tops are not deep enough to allow the screw to fully thread into the top. about 1/8" of spacers/washers may have worked though. and im pretty sure swiftech taps for 8-32 while ek is m4.


I checked and it's hard to tell but seems the only grooves in my MCP35X are from the self-tapping screws. I have a M4 tap, so can try that.

Thanks for the heads-up about the EK M4 screws being too long. Luckily I don't need the anti-vibration part, so I've ordered some 18mm and 20mm black oxide M4 screws


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> Love it...Is that 1/2" copper? Also what bender did you use? Very nicely done color scheme too...


I'm guessing B used the pipe bending techniques that he outlines in the copper pipe bending guide he linked to in his sig which I'm sure covers the pipe bender used...


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I checked and it's hard to tell but seems the only grooves in my MCP35X are from the self-tapping screws. I have a M4 tap, so can try that.
> 
> Thanks for the heads-up about the EK M4 screws being too long. Luckily I don't need the anti-vibration part, so I've ordered some 18mm and 20mm black oxide M4 screws


Please let me know which length you end up using in the end. I need to move my block, but the bracket I have cause for longer screws, and won't match up with the screws I have. If I get a general idea, it will save 5-10 dollars trying to find the ones that work.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


That looks smexy as all hell.


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm guessing B used the pipe bending techniques that he outlines in the copper pipe bending guide he linked to in his sig which I'm sure covers the pipe bender used...


Crap&#8230; My bad, my brain is a little in left field as my PC is torn apart right now. I used a half-inch handheld bender which seem to work okay. just wondering if he used the kind that has roller dies or standard stationary dies. Thanks for the heads up&#8230; Didn't even look in his signature but I will now.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Are you going to keep the black return down tube or put in the silver one? I think the silver would look better with that chrome base personally.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Are you going to keep the black return down tube or put in the silver one? I think the silver would look better with that chrome base personally.


Agreed, and actually that is the silver one it looks dark because of how the light is hitting it


----------



## Anoxy

It looks silver to me. I think the lighting just gives it a black look.

edit: James ninja'd me


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Made it. Arctic Water log is in my sig,Bittech MOTM winner for last May i think it was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In the lower left next to the 2 fans, is that some stock mesh or did you purchase that somewhere?


----------



## Pendaz

Hopefully in the next few weeks I'll be putting my 780ti and eventually my 4770k under water so I look forward to joining the club :-D

Will no doubt be back before then to ask questions etc, so for now I'll say hi


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Please let me know which length you end up using in the end. I need to move my block, but the bracket I have cause for longer screws, and won't match up with the screws I have. If I get a general idea, it will save 5-10 dollars trying to find the ones that work.


I'm not using a bracket, nor a regular DDC top. So I'm not sure my experiences will help you. Why not try yourself to stick a toothpick inside the screw hole, measure it and make an estimate from there?


----------



## Pendaz

I've had a look around and can't seem to find an answer to this question

I plan on building a water system to cool put cpu & gpu but i regularly move my pc, lan at mates houses most weekends etc which involved a car journey. so my question is how safe would this be? obviously im not going to be throwing my pc around but during transport, is this something i should worry about?


----------



## kpoeticg

My build is basically for the same thing. I chose the HAF XB so i could transport it around with me. As long as you build your loop solid, the worst thing you might have to deal with is air bubbles


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> I've had a look around and can't seem to find an answer to this question
> 
> I plan on building a water system to cool put cpu & gpu but i regularly move my pc, lan at mates houses most weekends etc which involved a car journey. so my question is how safe would this be? obviously im not going to be throwing my pc around but during transport, is this something i should worry about?


No, there shouldn't be any issues if assembled properly.


----------



## JottaD

half way, a lot of things to finish.....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> I've had a look around and can't seem to find an answer to this question
> 
> I plan on building a water system to cool put cpu & gpu but i regularly move my pc, lan at mates houses most weekends etc which involved a car journey. so my question is how safe would this be? obviously im not going to be throwing my pc around but during transport, is this something i should worry about?


From my own experience as long as everything is bolted down properly and all of your fittings and connections are secure, you shouldn't have a problem. Due to the movement of the vehicle though, and how your reservoir might be installed, you may have to bleed some air out of the pump once you start it back up. You can also put some paper towels down on the inside of the case to let you know if anything leaked and give you an indication of where it occurred.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> I've had a look around and can't seem to find an answer to this question
> 
> I plan on building a water system to cool put cpu & gpu but i regularly move my pc, lan at mates houses most weekends etc which involved a car journey. so my question is how safe would this be? obviously im not going to be throwing my pc around but during transport, is this something i should worry about?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From my own experience as long as everything is bolted down properly and all of your fittings and connections are secure, you shouldn't have a problem. Due to the movement of the vehicle though, and how your reservoir might be installed, you may have to bleed some air out of the pump once you start it back up. You can also put some paper towels down on the inside of the case to let you know if anything leaked and give you an indication of where it occurred.


And to add onto what BramSLI1 said, you probably might want to consider using QDCs to and from your GPUs, for easily removal of the GPUs during transfer of the computer. It won't be as sexy, but it'll prevent your GPUs from stressing out, and possibly breaking your pcie slot on your motherboard.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Last time I took my rig to a friends I had laid it on the back to prevent said stress on the PCI slot, but not sure how I'll move it with the loop in it now


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Last time I took my rig to a friends I had laid it on the back to prevent said stress on the PCI slot, but not sure how I'll move it with the loop in it now


Same way, what I do is have a drain port, and every time I move it, I drain it, then I re-fill when I hit destination, only takes a minute or two to re-fill.









I also move mine to lan parties, and it's a ~5 hour car trip (Only twice a year though).


----------



## DarthBaggins

Luckily for me my GPU isn't under water just yet so I can remove the card prior to transit and re-install at location.


----------



## Pendaz

Thanks for the info







exactly what i needed!

now i just gotta decide on parts


----------



## Mydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> Thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> exactly what i needed!
> 
> now i just gotta decide on parts


I'm using QDC's and removes both GPU's and the CPU-block, had a bad experience with broken pins in the socket once when I left the CPU-block on.


----------



## Roikyou

Getting ready to move forward on my build if parts ever show up. One thing I was thinking about and I have them, is adding Aquaero inline temp sensors. My thoughts was to add them after the radiators after the cpu and gpu. Thoughts?

480 - 480 - tmp sensor- 35x -35x -cpu - 360 - tmp sensor - gpu - back to the 480 - 480 in series


----------



## Anoxy

Found my point and poop. Wish I still had a DSLR


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Nice build mate, I really need to invest in a caselabs case....That dust filter ruins the front tho....


----------



## stickg1

I like that a lot!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Found my point and poop. Wish I still had a DSLR
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*Love* it.
Come on over, I'll take some pics of it.


----------



## lowfat

Finished my ESXi server today. Call it Forever Alone Fortress 02 Server Edition.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT021.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT023.jpg.html



http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT025.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT026.jpg.html


----------



## szeged

damn nice lowfat, great work.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished my ESXi server today. Call it Forever Alone Fortress 02 Server Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT021.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT023.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT024.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT025.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT026.jpg.html


*Love* that too.
As usual lowfat, nothing but high quality work coming from you.


----------



## Killbuzzjrad




----------



## szeged

storm trooper


----------



## jthm4goth




----------



## Neo Zuko

I miss how elegant the FT02 was. Not too much though in the post CaseLabs world I live in. The FT02 was easy to wire up and was awesome.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Nice build mate, I really need to invest in a caselabs case....That dust filter ruins the front tho....


Thanks, and yeah, the design of the demciflex pisses me off, but the filters perform damn well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I like that a lot!


Gracias
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> *Love* it.
> Come on over, I'll take some pics of it.


Thanks, gimme dat address.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished my ESXi server today. Call it Forever Alone Fortress 02 Server Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT021.jpg.html][/URL]
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT023.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT025.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT026.jpg.html


DAMNIT lowfat....stealing my rare moment of meager shine.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished my ESXi server today. Call it Forever Alone Fortress 02 Server Edition.


the best looking garden hose i have ever seen


----------



## kpoeticg

That's what she said =)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> DAMNIT lowfat....stealing my rare moment of meager shine.


I think lowfat has a habit of doing that.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Found my point and poop. Wish I still had a DSLR
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love that Caselabs build and the cases color combo... I bought my Merlin SM8 inverted as well, reverse colors though (black inside/white outside), and was not liking the way my build was coming along so I realized that I could very easily reverse the case to the traditional orientation. It's nice to know that you can do that with a Caselabs case in the event that you want really change out the look.

I really want that pump / res combo now that I see it in a SM8...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the best looking garden hose i have ever seen


If someone "told" me about that color in a build, I would have scoffed... but that is pretty cool!


----------



## dna-systems

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished my ESXi server today. Call it Forever Alone Fortress 02 Server Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT021.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT023.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT025.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT026.jpg.html






Freakin slick... I like the simplicity of it.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Swiftech Helix vs Noise Blocker eLoops for case fans. Huge cost difference, need some help here.

Case is a 900D, I need 2 front intake fans, and another rear intake fan.

Option 1; is is a 140 Swiftech Helix for the rear, and two 120 Helix for the front intake, pushing through hard drive cages. These are 10usd a piece.

Option 2; is three 120mm NoiseBlocker eLoops @ 22 bucks a piece. I don't mind the extra cost as long as it performs significantly better. My Rad fans are Scythe Gentle TYphoons, pretty happy with those, but FrozenCPU no longer has them in stock.


----------



## kpoeticg

I just really like the fact that he decided to work with the army-green pcb colors instead of burying them in bling. Can't think of another build i've seen that took the "PCB-Green" and made it the main accent color. Definitely looks sick!!!

Edit: @LaBestiaHumana Definitely go with the eLoops!!! Much worth the extra money.


----------



## DizZz

That's an awesome build lowfat


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished my ESXi server today. Call it Forever Alone Fortress 02 Server Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT021.jpg.html
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT023.jpg.html][/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT025.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT026.jpg.html


Pure sex. That is all.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished my ESXi server today. Call it Forever Alone Fortress 02 Server Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT021.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT023.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT025.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT026.jpg.html


That's one clean build, Love it!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Swiftech Helix vs Noise Blocker eLoops for case fans. Huge cost difference, need some help here.
> 
> Case is a 900D, I need 2 front intake fans, and another rear intake fan.
> 
> Option 1; is is a 140 Swiftech Helix for the rear, and two 120 Helix for the front intake, pushing through hard drive cages. These are 10usd a piece.
> 
> Option 2; is three 120mm NoiseBlocker eLoops @ 22 bucks a piece. I don't mind the extra cost as long as it performs significantly better. My Rad fans are Scythe Gentle TYphoons, pretty happy with those, but FrozenCPU no longer has them in stock.


since they will be mounted vertically, buy some yate loons. you wont do better for the price and eloops for case fans? stupid waste of money.


----------



## kpoeticg

I missed the part about case fans.

Expensive rad fans can definitely be considered a waste of money for case fans. Yate Loons would def serve the purpose. eLoops are hard to beat for Cable Routing also though. NB eLoops anyway.

I absolutely love how they have the 3Pin connector hanging off the fan like that.


----------



## skupples

They do look nice, but 25$ a fan. No thanks!

That whole "Designed with the Federal economics ministry" part is probably why they are 26$ a piece.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> since they will be mounted vertically, buy some yate loons. you wont do better for the price and eloops for case fans? stupid waste of money.


The 2 front ones will be pushing air through hard drive cages, and the front of the 900D doesn't get direct airflow. I don't mind spending the money for them if they out perform those Swiftech Helix fans. They also have to be aesthetically pleasing unless they are cheap. I've reached a point in my build, where I'm just looking to upgrade the little things, since I only need 3 fans I'm not worried about wasting money.

I'll look into those Yate Loons, I've never heard of them before. What attracts me about the Helix is how similar they are to the Gentle Typhoons and the fact that they come with white blades.


----------



## kpoeticg

Helix's are only similar to GT's in appearance.....from what i understand. CM Sickleflows look like GT's also









I'd go with the eLoops

I might be confusing 120 Helix's from 140 Helix's. I know i've heard alot of people complain about how noisy Helix's are. Might be the 140's tho....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Helix's are only similar to GT's in appearance.....from what i understand. CM Sickleflows look like GT's also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd go with the eLoops


What a shame, if they had been 17.99 I would have bought them thinking they are just a rebrand. But that 9.99 price tag made me think about it. Just glad I didn't.

I am trying to upgrade fan quality, not trying to get side grades to the stock 900D fans 

eLoops it is, then.


----------



## kpoeticg

I know where you can still get AP-00's for a good price. 12 bux with no molex/pins, 16 bux with molex + pins. AP-00's are my favorite =)


----------



## derickwm

Don't be telling people the secrets of the gods!


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What a shame, if they had been 17.99 I would have bought them thinking they are just a rebrand. But that 9.99 price tag made me think about it. Just glad I didn't.
> 
> I am trying to upgrade fan quality, not trying to get side grades to the stock 900D fans
> 
> eLoops it is, then.


Haven't used Yate Loons or eLoops yet, but I've used the Helix. And I utterly hated them. They weren't remotely silent when undervolted, and all three had kinda a ticking noise when undervolted. It was incredibly annoying. Enough that I just flat out replaced them with AP-15s, even though they are slightly close in performance to AP-15s (and much cheaper).


----------



## kpoeticg

GT's performance is defined by their silence. Can't really be close in performance to GT's if they're much louder


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> GT's performance is defined by their silence. Can't really be close in performance to GT's if they're much louder


I'm talking about a ~5C delta between the two on load, which sounds like a lot, but for someone who isn't going for the end-all-be-all lowest possible temps, 5C was workable. And the Helix are indeed quite a bit cheaper than AP-15s.


----------



## Anoxy

I don't really think GTs are silent. But I guess I've never heard any other radiator fans in comparison.


----------



## kpoeticg

Gotcha









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I don't really think GTs are silent. But I guess I've never heard any other radiator fans in comparison.
> 
> You're gonna be very unpleasantly suprised when you try other fans =\
> 
> Unless you're talking about the Black Blade "Industrial" GT's


----------



## szeged

i got about 20 GTS at full blast a foot away from my head, theyre quieter than any other fan ive had, but they still sound like a swarm of angry bees.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, well they're still fans


----------



## Anoxy

Shoot son, why full blast? I rarely have mine running more than 60%, and I only have 15 of them.


----------



## derickwm

GTs shine when you then turn them down IMO.

Long ago when I had this setup right next to me and turned all 18 fans down to half they were dead silent.









Dont mind the awful tubing... Desperately needed an angle fitting at the time.


----------



## Noviets

Hey guys, just ordering parts for my watercooling loop for my new 750D.

Measured the top space between the dimms and the grill and there's apporoximately 85mm of space, what would the best option be in terms of performance? 30mm in push+pull or a larger rad in push?
I was looking at the Nexxos ST30 in a push+pull config with Corsair SP120's.

My concern is the ran is too skinny to be used efficiently in push+pull, those fan have great static pressure (3.1mm H2O) So I was wondering if I should go with a XT45 or a UT60 in only Push. I assume I would need to run the fans at a higher RPM right? Trying to find the best balance between performance over silence as I can, with as much silence as I can get.

I want to get as much as I can out of this 8350


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> GT's performance is defined by their silence. Can't really be close in performance to GT's if they're much louder


The unicorn of radiator fans. People claim they exist, but can only be found in the back allies... So far into discontinued that they don't even list them on the discontinued page @ Scythe anymore. They had that crazy blade design too. Discontinued back in the dark ages of watercooling.










only site I know of is tank something or other.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> since they will be mounted vertically, buy some yate loons. you wont do better for the price *and eloops for case fans? stupid waste of money*.


Have to completely disagree on that one.
NB eLoop-s are so whisper quiet you just don't hear them - even at full blast on 1900 rpm
Expensive - yes no doubt if you're looking for "_silent_" case fans you won't be disappointed.

and when you start plonking them on rads - again, a winning solution.

For any fan we sometimes fail to consider any mesh or grill in a fan's exhaust flow as it may be that is where a lot peoples different perceived noise level of a fans is distorted.
Ideally an open hole would be best - but a un-restrictive grill is mush better than the mesh in most cases.


----------



## kpoeticg

I have 12 14 AP-00's. I'm stocked up.

And you have the site correct. I've ordered from them twice. 12bux with no molex =)


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Have to completely disagree on that one.
> NB eLoop-s are so whisper quiet you just don't hear them - even at full blast on 1900 rpm
> Expensive - yes no doubt if you're looking for "_silent_" case fans you won't be disappointed.
> 
> and when you start plonking them on rads - again, a winning solution.
> 
> For any fan we sometimes fail to consider any mesh or grill in a fan's exhaust flow as it may be that is where a lot peoples different perceived noise level of a fans is distorted.
> Ideally an open hole would be best - but a un-restrictive grill is mush better than the mesh in most cases.






I've got 4 eLoops, 6 BlackSilentPro PL-2s, and 4 BlackSilentPro PK-2 fans in my rig at between 5-7V. Checking in that they're _inaudible_, but then again I'm a 16 year old with a hearing problem from loud music and siblings







damn good fans though.

-Zepp


----------



## Noviets

Would you guys recommend the Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans over the Corsair SP120's?

Cougars have 2.2 mmh20 static pressure, vs 3.1 on the Corsair's but theres a massive noise difference, 35db (Corsair) vs 17.9db (Cougar)

I think I'f I go with quieter lower static pressure fans, then I can go push+pull instead of just push with the louder fans.

The Push+Pull should perform a little better, and they should also be quieter because of the very low dB rating, right?

This is for an ST30mm radiator mounted at the top of the case. (750D)

Does anyone own the D5 Vario XTOP? I cant seem to find much in the way of dB ratings at certain flow/rpm's


----------



## kpoeticg

Don't EVERRRRR buy a fan based off manufacturer specs. Whether dBA, SP, CFM, it's a lie. Ignore it. Get your info from OCN and other forums like this.

That being said, everybody i know with Cougars has been very happy with them

Edit: You ever see pictures of all the beautifully prepared Burger King, McDonalds, & Wendy's Burgers? Fan specs are the same =)

Edit x2: Apologies to all the Vendor Reps for my previous statement. Not trying to knock anybody.....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Hey guys, just ordering parts for my watercooling loop for my new 750D.
> 
> Measured the top space between the dimms and the grill and there's apporoximately 85mm of space, what would the best option be in terms of performance? 30mm in push+pull or a larger rad in push?
> I was looking at the Nexxos ST30 in a push+pull config with Corsair SP120's.
> 
> My concern is the ran is too skinny to be used efficiently in push+pull, those fan have great static pressure (3.1mm H2O) So I was wondering if I should go with a XT45 or a UT60 in only Push. I assume I would need to run the fans at a higher RPM right? Trying to find the best balance between performance over silence as I can, with as much silence as I can get.
> 
> I want to get as much as I can out of this 8350


UT60 in Push, with some killer fans like the Noiseblocker eLoops


----------



## pc-illiterate

for those who have never used a yate loon because they were too cheap to be good, yate loon is the best fan you can get under $14. people who talk 'bad' about it have no clue as they have never used them. too elite to use a cheap fan because if its cheap it sucks. those people are the reason fans are overpriced.
it has good cfm. it has good static pressure. it is quiet. it has great price. the ONLY downside to yate loons are the fact they are sleeve bearing. they are AWESOME rad fans on the cheap.
and yes, waste of money for a case fan. there are plenty of case fans that can push just as much air just as quietly for less money. in some cases, for a lot less money.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've never heard anybody knock Yate's...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Don't EVERRRRR buy a fan based off manufacturer specs. Whether dBA, SP, CFM, it's a lie. Ignore it. Get your info from OCN and other forums like this.
> 
> That being said, everybody i know with Cougars has been very happy with them
> 
> Edit: You ever see pictures of all the beautifully prepared Burger King, McDonalds, & Wendy's Burgers? Fan specs are the same =)
> 
> Edit x2: Apologies to all the Vendor Reps for my previous statement. Not trying to knock anybody.....


So true, I was looking through specs and all the fans seem to perform amazingly well


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Don't EVERRRRR buy a fan based off manufacturer specs. Whether dBA, SP, CFM, it's a lie. Ignore it. Get your info from OCN and other forums like this.
> 
> That being said, everybody i know with Cougars has been very happy with them
> 
> Edit: You ever see pictures of all the beautifully prepared Burger King, McDonalds, & Wendy's Burgers? Fan specs are the same =)
> 
> Edit x2: Apologies to all the Vendor Reps for my previous statement. Not trying to knock anybody.....


Cougars #1


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah you and Wermad are definitely part of that "everybody" i was referring to.

Some people i take what they say with a grain of salt. You guys, i tend to believe your recommendations...


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> UT60 in Push, with some killer fans like the Noiseblocker eLoops


^^^^^^ This....Or you can run an Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 420mm with some NB PK-3 (no mod required) anything thicker like 420 like a 45mm would require i small mod to the internal of 5.25 drive bay....


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah you and Wermad are definitely part of that "everybody" i was referring to.
> 
> Some people i take what they say with a grain of salt. You guys, i tend to believe your recommendations...


After having used Cougar Vortexes myself, I'm inclined to agree with them on its performance and silence. When undervolted, it has a pleasant whoosh of air, and nothing more. They are pretty darn good fans.

If anything, I was actually surprised that HEC is the OEM for them :O


----------



## Angrychair

really good sleeve job on those ap-00's sir.

wish i had my 15's. but nooo, usps lost them in the freaking mail....and i will never get them replaced any time soon, the vendor i bought them from is out of stock, so i got a refund. So I'm stuck with 14's(which isn't a complaint, i just want to test 15's)

/wrists

not really related to watercooling, but I got a new desk. Ikea Galant, black, left corner. No big deal to many of you, but I live 6 hours from the closest Ikea, I scored this one new in box on craiglist for $220 with T legs.

loving this desk


----------



## benjamen50

The GELID Wing 140mm and 120mm are pretty good right? (For case fans)

@Angrychair are those Sennheiser headphones, if so. What model are those? I have HD518's here. (Used to previously use HD201's)


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx









Sorry to hear about your AP-15's. Sweet desk though. I miss living near an IKEA =\

I definitely need a whole new desk/workstation/workbench/apartment setup LOLLLL. My place is just piles of tools and computer parts on top of piles of tools and computer parts


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cougars #1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I see your ~25 120mm orange Cougars, and raise you 30 green 140mm Cougars and one green 120mm Cougar


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I see your ~25 120mm orange Cougars, and raise you 30 green 140mm Cougars and one green 120mm Cougar






I see that this has now turned into a certain kind of measuring contest


----------



## derickwm

I see your 31 green Cougars and raise you 25 more orange Cougars that haven't been placed in Aldri yet, in addition to my original 25


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> The GELID Wing 140mm and 120mm are pretty good right? (For case fans)
> 
> @Angrychair are those Sennheiser headphones, if so. What model are those? I have HD518's here. (Used to previously use HD201's)


yeah, HD558's modded to 598's(foam removed) THEY SOUND AMAZE, really flat and neutral. So naturally lacking in bass, but you can EQ it up a little bit and they still sound GREAT. $144 shipped at newegg was the cheapest I could find. And down yet ANOTHER road of addiction.....sigh

you could replace the drivers in your 518's probably with th e558/598's and have the same exact cans. I like the grills better on the 518's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I see your 31 green Cougars and raise you 25 more orange Cougars that haven't been placed in Aldri yet, in addition to my original 25
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


External Rad?

Good lord, aldari is a hover craft


----------



## derickwm

Haha nah it's not permanent. Those fans were being kept warm (or cool maybe?) by my test bench setup while Aldri was being delayed. Going to replace those soon with something new and all the Cougars will go back in Aldri, assuming my pedestal ever comes back from Slovenia


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cougars #1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see your ~25 120mm orange Cougars, and raise you 30 green 140mm Cougars and one green 120mm Cougar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I see your 31 green Cougars and raise you 25 more orange Cougars that haven't been placed in Aldri yet, in addition to my original 25
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kpoeticg

^^


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Fans?

Alpenfohn.

Or GT's.

Or Noiseblockers,not just the eloop.

Phanteks are supposed to be good too....


----------



## kpoeticg

Alpenfohn's are tough to get in the states though. And the original question was eLoops or Helix's.

I agree about all NB's in general, but eLoops are their best 120 rad fans IMO

I'm curious about the new Phanteks too. Heard alot of good stuff. Haven't really seen much solid data though


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I have 2x 280mm EK Radiators, a 240 xspc slim, and a 120 xspc slim... If I pulled one of the 280mm (it is 55mm thick) and replace it with a 420 (triple 140 that is 30mm tthick) and ran it in push pull, would I reduce the temps any more?

Just very curious about that. Thanks to those that answer ahead of time.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Highly doubt your temps would change, you will however be able to run your fans at slower rpm which you probable already do....

Just curious what temps do you see now and what config are the current rads in (push/pull or just push or pull)....


----------



## Pendaz

Another beginners question, or rather, noob question, would be a beginner if i could pluck up the courage to actually begin haha

If i bought, for example, something like this

would i then be able to expand on this, upgrade the waterblock for example, swap the res, and include my GPU in the loop?

if this is the case, is there anything i should be aware of? part compatability etc?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> Another beginners question, or rather, noob question, would be a beginner if i could pluck up the courage to actually begin haha
> 
> If i bought, for example, something like this
> 
> *would i then be able to expand on this, upgrade the waterblock for example, swap the res, and include my GPU in the loop?*
> 
> if this is the case, is there anything i should be aware of? part compatability etc?


Absolutely. That's one of the main purposes of buying those kits. They make it simple for you to get started so you can get your feet wet...then your hooked on watercooling and start looking for upgrades and additions.








But seriously, that's a solid start. The Raystorm is a good block, the D5 is a great pump and could be used with another res in the future, and XSPC rads perform great. With a 360 like that, you could probably water cool your GPU in the future and not have to add another rad to the loop, the 360 should cool your CPU and GPU just fine.


----------



## Pendaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Absolutely. That's one of the main purposes of buying those kits. They make it simple for you to get started so you can get your feet wet...then your hooked on watercooling and start looking for upgrades and additions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, that's a solid start. The Raystorm is a good block, the D5 is a great pump and could be used with another res in the future, and XSPC rads perform great. With a 360 like that, you could probably water cool your GPU in the future and not have to add another rad to the loop, the 360 should cool your CPU and GPU just fine.


awesome thanks for the heads up









Now i just have to gather the funds haha


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> Another beginners question, or rather, noob question, would be a beginner if i could pluck up the courage to actually begin haha
> 
> If i bought, for example, something like this
> 
> *would i then be able to expand on this, upgrade the waterblock for example, swap the res, and include my GPU in the loop?*
> 
> if this is the case, is there anything i should be aware of? part compatability etc?
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely. That's one of the main purposes of buying those kits. They make it simple for you to get started so you can get your feet wet...then your hooked on watercooling and start looking for upgrades and additions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, that's a solid start. The Raystorm is a good block, the D5 is a great pump and could be used with another res in the future, and XSPC rads perform great. With a 360 like that, you could probably water cool your GPU in the future and not have to add another rad to the loop, the 360 should cool your CPU and GPU just fine.
Click to expand...

This.
A post after my own heart.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Alpenfohn's are tough to get in the states though. And the original question was eLoops or Helix's.
> I agree about all NB's in general, but eLoops are their best 120 rad fans IMO
> 
> I'm curious about the new Phanteks too. Heard alot of good stuff. Haven't really seen much solid data though


I really want to grab some Alpenfohns to play around with, plus they look sweet. May still grab me some since it is still not to bad, basically cost the same when ever I buy CDs from Germany. Well, maybe not as bad as I am debating nabbing one CD set that going to cost over 80 bucks, and that not even with shipping.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> damn nice lowfat, great work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> *Love* that too.
> As usual lowfat, nothing but high quality work coming from you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> Freakin slick... I like the simplicity of it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Pure sex. That is all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> That's an awesome build lowfat


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That's one clean build, Love it!


Thank y'all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> DAMNIT lowfat....stealing my rare moment of meager shine.


Sorry bro.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just really like the fact that he decided to work with the army-green pcb colors instead of burying them in bling. Can't think of another build i've seen that took the "PCB-Green" and made it the main accent color. Definitely looks sick!!!


Honestly I'd rather use green than the dark brown that some motherboard companies are still using.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I really want to grab some Alpenfohns to play around with, plus they look sweet. May still grab me some since it is still not to bad, basically cost the same when ever I buy CDs from Germany. Well, maybe not as bad as I am debating nabbing one CD set that going to cost over 80 bucks, and that not even with shipping.


Dooo eeet!
Really tho. I had to break down and get 5 of the orange 140mm. They really are good quality and pwm if you need that, then the looks just sweeten the deal. I am waiting on the new models they have coming to get the other big wave I need, lol! If you are gonna get them, Specialtech worked out cheapest for me, shipping to Colorado, but I ended up getting them from OCUK because Specialtech didn't have the psu I wanted.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Dooo eeet!
> Really tho. I had to break down and get 5 of the orange 140mm. They really are good quality and pwm if you need that, then the looks just sweeten the deal. I am waiting on the new models they have coming to get the other big wave I need, lol! If you are gonna get them, Specialtech worked out cheapest for me, shipping to Colorado, but I ended up getting them from OCUK because Specialtech didn't have the psu I wanted.


I probably going to grab some of the black/white ones for my folder since I will soon be getting a water block for the 7970. Then I can finally stop listening to those Silverstone fans making such a racket.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I probably going to grab some of the black/white ones for my folder since I will soon be getting a water block for the 7970. Then I can finally stop listening to those Silverstone fans making such a racket.


I hate silverstone fans.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I hate silverstone fans.


Their 180mms are awesome. Their noise profile is just like rushing wind.









Can't comment on any other of their fans though. I'll stick w/ Phantek PH-F140XPs for 140mm and GTs for 120mm. No reason for me to bother w/ anything else.


----------



## iamkraine

I guess my comment wasnt really fair. The only experience I have with silverstone fans is with stock fans.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Would you guys recommend the Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans over the Corsair SP120's?
> 
> Cougars have 2.2 mmh20 static pressure, vs 3.1 on the Corsair's but theres a massive noise difference, 35db (Corsair) vs 17.9db (Cougar)
> 
> I think I'f I go with quieter lower static pressure fans, then I can go push+pull instead of just push with the louder fans.
> 
> The Push+Pull should perform a little better, and they should also be quieter because of the very low dB rating, right?
> 
> This is for an ST30mm radiator mounted at the top of the case. (750D)
> 
> Does anyone own the D5 Vario XTOP? I cant seem to find much in the way of dB ratings at certain flow/rpm's


The Cougar Vortex 120 PWM fans are fantastic. The only problem with them is that if you mount them horizontally they can sometimes make a clicking / grinding sound. I haven't experienced it with my 120s but I had to replace my 140s with Noctua fans.


----------



## EliteReplay

nice build


----------



## 15goudreau

For everyone saying the AP 15s are out of stock they keep going in and out on frozen. I would setup an email alert and just buy them then. I had one going and within 2 days they would have like 10 in stock. I did this for like a week. Not sure where they are getting them from but I was able to pick up 5 in my addition to 5. Once I get paid I might pick up 5 more







.

Of course that is only for the states unless you want to pay outrageous international shipping


----------



## 15goudreau

Also what is this magical website that has fans for 12 bucks. I want in!


----------



## VSG

They are out of stock now, it was tankguys


----------



## Neo Zuko

I emailed frozen, they said that might be it for them. Last of the stock.


----------



## kpoeticg

TG has run out of stock a bunch of times since they got "Discontinued". They'll have them again

Also, i didn't let the cat out of the bag Derick. I just acknowledged that there was a bag somewhere with a cat in it


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I guess my comment wasnt really fair. The only experience I have with silverstone fans is with stock fans.


Yeah, they are not stock silverstone fans, but they are noise. Only good thing about these is the fact dust never has a chance to stay in the case since they run full tilt around 2000+ rpms. Though, have to say they kept on running 4+ years now at these speeds since I bought them for my first build when I really did not know much between fans, and how noise a fan at those speeds was. At least on my first water cool build(2nd Build) I took more time to research, and grabbed AP-15s for my rad.


----------



## Noviets

On the front of the 750D, what are the best intake 140mm fans to put there? Are the Noiseblocker PWM 140mm fans great?

I'm putting a 360mm rad on the top and worried about them being starved, the 140mm fans that comes with the case have a bad vibration, plus they seem to have low CFM.

What are the best 140mm fans to get for airflow?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> The Cougar Vortex 120 PWM fans are fantastic. The only problem with them is that if you mount them horizontally they can sometimes make a clicking / grinding sound. I haven't experienced it with my 120s but I had to replace my 140s with Noctua fans.


Which would you choose, the Cougar's or Noiseblocker eLoops? They will be used on a UT60, in push, horizonal.

Glad you said something about the Cougars because I was having a time choosing between them.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> On the front of the 750D, what are the best intake 140mm fans to put there? Are the Noiseblocker PWM 140mm fans great?


no point in using pwm fans especially if you arent controlling them with pwm.


----------



## Pheozero

Where can I get Alpenfohn fans from when I'm in the US?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no point in using pwm fans especially if you arent controlling them with pwm.


Yeah that's extremely true. Not only is there no benefit to running PWM fans through Voltage Control. It's actually bad for the fans. There's different circuitry in the PWM versions of fans. That circuitry doesn't like to be voltage controlled. The side effects can be as small as shortening the life span (which if you have the upgrade-it-us that many of us do, it wouldn't really matter), but it can also make em louder.

If you're not planning on controlling them via PWM, u shouldn't get PWM fans


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah that's extremely true. Not only is there no benefit to running PWM fans through Voltage Control. It's actually bad for the fans. There's different circuitry in the PWM versions of fans. That circuitry doesn't like to be voltage controlled. The side effects can be as small as shortening the life span (which if you have the upgrade-it-us that many of us do, it wouldn't really matter), but it can also make em louder.
> 
> If you're not planning on controlling them via PWM, u shouldn't get PWM fans


They are thermally controlled using the pwm headers on the MB. I'm not using a fan controller. Also the 120mm fans for the rad will also be controlled the same way.

Trying to get the system to be reasonably silent when idle. Which is also why I got the D5 Vario X-TOP pump.


----------



## kpoeticg

Cool. Just dbl check that your mobo's PWM Headers are actually PWM headers. Usually only the CPU_Fan and CPU_OPT are PWM. And the CPU_OPT will usually only mirror the control curve of the CPU_FAN Profile


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Cool. Just dbl check that your mobo's PWM Headers are actually PWM headers. Usually only the CPU_Fan and CPU_OPT are PWM. And the CPU_OPT will usually only mirror the control curve of the CPU_FAN Profile


Even then half the time CPU_OPT is only voltage control, as with my Z87X-OC.

As always, ymmv!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Cool. Just dbl check that your mobo's PWM Headers are actually PWM headers. Usually only the CPU_Fan and CPU_OPT are PWM. And the CPU_OPT will usually only mirror the control curve of the CPU_FAN Profile


they arent. refer to page 1-33
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/E8042_SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.pdf

anyone doubting the +5v instead of a pwm wire on asus boards and probably gigabyte's also
https://www.google.com/search?q=motherboard+4pin+is+5v+not+pwm&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&channel=sb


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I guess my comment wasnt really fair. The only experience I have with silverstone fans is with stock fans.


Yeah I own about a dozen of their fans. FQ121s and FN121-Ps, all pretty nice. The FQ's especially...



I turned on my rig for the first time since Monday when I just got home and was missing a lot of coolant in the res. Must have been a stubborn air bubble or something. I filled this thing three weeks ago, and have had to top off the res three times now. I don't see any puddles of coolant anywhere, so it has to go somewhere.


----------



## 15goudreau

Gt 15 back in stock at frozen. Only ten right now


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Highly doubt your temps would change, you will however be able to run your fans at slower rpm which you probable already do....
> 
> Just curious what temps do you see now and what config are the current rads in (push/pull or just push or pull)....


I have the back rad in Push, with a slim 120 Scythe fan, the bottom 240 and top 280 in pull, and the front 280 is in push pull.

The GPUs top out at 43-45 and the CPU rarely goes above 55 during the hottest part of the day


----------



## lowfat

O look. I did some more polishing.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-26-5.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-24-5.jpg.html

Link to a simple guide I did.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/lowfats-big-lian-li-inverted-edition/700_20#post_22023995


----------



## derickwm

Update city, population me.














































More in the log


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Gt 15 back in stock at frozen. Only ten right now


+1









Just bought the 3 I needed.


----------



## kpoeticg

Derick, it kills me a little inside to know that you live so close to me. All i need is an address and i can play with all your glorious hardware when your not home. You wouldn't even know i'm there.









I'd be very careful


----------



## derickwm

Yikes D:


----------



## kpoeticg

Hey all this Mips and Wonder Ram pr0n, you can't blame a guy for trying


----------



## Neo Zuko

Wonder RAM Time!! (my stash of 4x4GB 1600mhz DDR3):



Good to know those EK waterblocks work on my RAM. If I ever needed to watercool it...


----------



## kpoeticg

I was always under the assumption that Ram PCB's were pretty universal. I think it's just the Heatspreaders that make em incompatible, which is why the Monarch Modules are so popular


----------



## Neo Zuko

yes, but we need low profile monarchs... hint hint EK.


----------



## stickg1

Dang man I don't want to know what you had you to do to get all that MIPS. I haven't seen that stuff for sale anywhere in a while.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Dang man I don't want to know what you had you to do to get all that MIPS. I haven't seen that stuff for sale anywhere in a while.


Lol, most likely he just opened his closet and dusted off one of his crates of extremely rare and smexy hardware, gave it a quick polish, and threw it on his mobo









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> yes, but we need low profile monarchs... hint hint EK.


Shouldn't really matter. The modules make contact with the Monarchs via Thermal Pads. LP shouldn't make a temp difference. Unless i'm missing something, I have no mysterious box of rare and smexy hardware


----------



## Neo Zuko

yea but it would look cooler.


----------



## derickwm

I've had the MIPS hardware for about a year and a half now. Just in a box









We don't plan on bringing lower profile Monarch Modules. Especially since low profile RAM is compatible with the current Monarch Modules, as you can see.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I've had the MIPS hardware for about a year and a half now. Just in a box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We don't plan on bringing lower profile Monarch Modules. Especially since low profile RAM is compatible with the current Monarch Modules, as you can see.
Click to expand...


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Update city, population me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More in the log



















Amazing work Derick


----------



## charliebrown

doing my first loop next weekend but im torn between what res to use a bay or a tube which one will be better any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> doing my first loop next weekend but im torn between what res to use a bay or a tube which one will be better any help would be greatly appreciated


I have found tube reservoirs are much more practical. Bay reservoirs look cool (subjective) but I had allot of issues with them gulping air, it also requires more work to mount the pump, unless it is an all in one pump/bay res combo.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> doing my first loop next weekend but im torn between what res to use a bay or a tube which one will be better any help would be greatly appreciated


I'm with @skupples, a bay res can be a hassle unless it's a res/pump combo. Also the internal tube res is just much more fun aesthetically


----------



## charliebrown

i was looking at a 270 xspc d5 photon kit with ax360 rad for my cpu/gpu


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> i was looking at a 270 xspc d5 photon kit with ax360 rad for my cpu/gpu


The xspc and ek kits are a great, comfortable starting point for your first loop. Just be warned, all it will do is open up your water cooling world... then your wallet knows no boundaries


----------



## charliebrown

my wife is buying this one for our anniversary lol so she like this is not a gift ugh

thanks for the advice bro really looking forward to getting into water one more thing i do alot of pipe bending at work for hydraulic systems so im trying acrylic tubing what is your take on it vs plastic


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> my wife is buying this one for our anniversary lol so she like this is not a gift ugh
> 
> thanks for the advice bro really looking forward to getting into water one more thing i do alot of pipe bending at work for hydraulic systems so im trying acrylic tubing what is your take on it vs plastic


Acrylic is great, I've used it in my last two builds and I'll be using it in my current build I'm doing. I personally didn't use bends in my last two builds however, I used lots of fittings, but that gets VERY costly. I did that for aesthetic reasons though. I did several bent tubes but they just didn't work with the look I was going for in my Robocop build. I may use bent tube in my new build, but not sure. It can be very very well done, but the bends have to be extremely perfect or the build can look awful fast. For an example of absolutely stellar looking bent tubing builds look up @lowfat, his recent bent tube builds are, in my opinion, the absolute pinnacle of bent tube cleanliness and perfection. Just be prepared for a lot of work and patience.

I choose acrylic, but if not acrylic then I would go with neoprene tubing or the EK ZMT tube which looks amazing.


----------



## skupples

I'm hoping this white Advanced LRT isn't going to be the kinda tubing you have to replace every 6 months. Norprene is great, but it doesn't come in white.









I know it's damn near a sin to not use acrylic in a Caselabs build, i'm just not feeling it yet.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Cool. Just dbl check that your mobo's PWM Headers are actually PWM headers. Usually only the CPU_Fan and CPU_OPT are PWM. And the CPU_OPT will usually only mirror the control curve of the CPU_FAN Profile


I was going to use a PWM pcb splitter plug the pump into "CH 1" the rest of the fans across it. I have a PWM extention cable to hide all the cables behind the mobo neatly.

That splitter has 8 ports, and I only have 6 fans, which gives me a little breathing room If I need to add additional fans later on, like one next to the graphics cards for example.

I was looking to put one behind the mobo blowing onto the back of the socket, but I don't think there's enough room there, and the mosfets dont seem to reach any worrying temperatures, which should also decrease a little once I get all the fans in.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm hoping this white Advanced LRT isn't going to be the kinda tubing you have to replace every 6 months. Norprene is great, but it doesn't come in white.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's damn near a sin to not use acrylic in a Caselabs build, i'm just not feeling it yet.


Well, white LRT + white case labs = big win


----------



## MeanBruce

I just ordered Tygon Norprene 1/2-3/4 black arriving Monday, is there something wrong with it?

page 6497. Holy ****, where have I been?

ok let me add my doofy picture.

Mine is a 3770K 5.2Ghz office apps rig.









I'm still learning, got my first compression fittings today from PPCS.







...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I just ordered Tygon Norprene black arriving Monday, is there something wrong with it?


nope Solid stuff! Just a bit stiff.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I just ordered Tygon Norprene black arriving Monday, is there something wrong with it?


It's AWESOME tubing, love, love love it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> my wife is buying this one for our anniversary lol so she like this is not a gift ugh
> 
> thanks for the advice bro really looking forward to getting into water one more thing i do alot of pipe bending at work for hydraulic systems so im trying acrylic tubing what is your take on it vs plastic


It is great for clean looking builds and low maintenance but it does have a steep learning curve. Nothing that a couple of feet of practice tube wouldnt cure.

I would never have got these runs looking good in normal tube or acrylic and fittings...










Link in my sig for my guide on how to do it,there is lots of community input in to this method in that thread,I hope it helps.


----------



## Noviets

Is it worth it putting a waterblock on the mosfets in a sabertooth990fx board? What could you really accomplish in terms of greater performance, by watercooling them with an 8350? I figured the HT and CPU-NB speeds would be limited by the chip, moreso than the temps, right?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Laing D5 or Laing DDC, I still didn't get a proper response.


D5.

All day long.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm hoping this white Advanced LRT isn't going to be the kinda tubing you have to replace every 6 months. Norprene is great, but it doesn't come in white.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's damn near a sin to not use acrylic in a Caselabs build, i'm just not feeling it yet.


I'm still "old skool" using Adv. "pearl green". Still lots of us out there sticking to good ol' nylon. I think the Watts from Homes was extremely stiff as I had a few leaks w/ that on the bridge. Its helluva lot stiffer then the Advance. Went straight to the recycle bin. Though it didn't cloud (







).

Bending acrylic did teach some good lessons put to use recently. I rewired a couple of sheds for the old man and ran some conduits. Rather then buying a ton of angled adapters, took out my heat gun and a piece of 3" pvc pipe and presto. Though, sticking in the wiring helps a ton before you bend the conduit pvc pipe







.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*


So many connectors. So PRETTY!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Some progress









Careful w/ the ram blocks. I initially had two dimms per slot and that caused a lot of uncomfortable sway of the ram once the tube was connected. Ended up getting another set of Vengeance to populate all slots. Now, no more bending, albeit I am using a smaller walled tube then before to minimize the tube pressure. Remember acrylic has little give so I expect those bends to be super accurate sir









She's looking gorgeous. Needs moar updates please!

You decide on a case yet? (ahem, CL, cough...., ahem







).


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I just ordered Tygon Norprene 1/2-3/4 black arriving Monday, is there something wrong with it?
> 
> page 6497. Holy ****, where have I been?
> 
> ok let me add my doofy picture.
> 
> Mine is a 3770K 5.2Ghz office apps rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still learning, got my first compression fittings today from PPCS.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I hope those SanAce120's aren't as noisy as the pair of SanAce80's I have in my box of bits from my old PC. They shift a hell of a lot of air but sound like fighter jets on full power.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm with @skupples, a bay res can be a hassle unless it's a res/pump combo. Also the internal tube res is just much more fun aesthetically


How about this new EK unit with an anti-vibration floating D5 mount? Will that be any better as the pump is built in? I keep hearing a bay res is difficult to bleed but I really want this one.

I was going to run the EK bay res above in combo with this EK X3 Res D5 setup for dual pumps.

However, if I go internal res only, if a bay res is truly not worth the hassle, I could buy this EK X3 Res Dual Pump setup.

Which path for dual pumps would everyone here take? One disadvantage of the EK's dual pump housing is you can't use the EK black nickel D5 covers with it. Whereas with the separate pump options you can.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> How about this new EK unit with an anti-vibration floating D5 mount? Will that be any better as the pump is built in? I keep hearing a bay res is difficult to bleed but I really want this one.
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to run the EK bay res above in combo with this EK X3 Res D5 setup for dual pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> However, if I go internal res only, if a bay res is truly not worth the hassle, I could buy this EK X3 Res Dual Pump setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Which path for dual pumps would everyone here take? One disadvantage of the EK's dual pump housing is you can't use the EK black nickel D5 covers with it. Whereas with the separate pump options you can.


I don't know if calling it difficult is the right term. In my experience, it has been just like bleeding a tube res. The only difference being that the bay res can & will suck air MUCH faster than the tube res. If you do go the bay res route, I would recommend filling the system up as much as possible from a radiator first.


----------



## Ithanul

Then I must of had a odd ball of a Rasa bay res/pump combo. Had that thing in my main rig for 2+ years, never had to put water into it those years. Than again, I can't get the top plug off from how snug it is on that bay res.


----------



## skupples

Part of the problem is pump speed. You want your pump set on high to help get out the pesky bubbles, which in turn cause issues with the res gulping more air. This was a serious issue on the Swiftech Maelstrom when running mcp35x2. I had to completely submerge the reservoir to prevent it from gulping air, or just run the pumps @ lowest duty cycle.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*


I look forward to seeing that new "all inclusive" EK block for the R4BE. Shouldn't it be out by now?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Part of the problem is pump speed. You want your pump set on high to help get out the pesky bubbles, which in turn cause issues with the res gulping more air. This was a serious issue on the Swiftech Maelstrom when running mcp35x2. I had to completely submerge the reservoir to prevent it from gulping air, or just run the pumps @ lowest duty cycle.


I wonder if it's more of a MCP35X pump issue than a D5 pump issue. And how do you submerge a reservoir exactly?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I look forward to seeing that new "all inclusive" EK block for the R4BE. Shouldn't it be out by now?


I don't think they gave a release date, which would mean its coming when its coming. SOON ™
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I wonder if it's more of a MCP35X pump issue than a D5 pump issue. And how do you submerge a reservoir exactly?


filling it up 100%, submerge is probably a poor wording. D5s are just as fast/faster than an MCP35x. It think its more up to the reservoir design than pump choice. Iv'e used these pumps on three different Bay reservoir systems & all three of them had the same issues with gulping air @ high speeds. Specially if you are powering the pump via the CPU_Header, which can/will cause 100% duty cycle spikes on boot up.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Ah so basically there is not enough water above the pump to prevent the intake of air sometimes. I see. A tall tube res would not have that issue. My buddy is like he was wants a waterfall res in the front of his PC. I had to explain that people spend lots of time bleeding air and that most likely would not work.


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *troy0818*


MOTM right here, no contest.


----------



## jpetrach

Got my new board from ASUS, fitted tubes and tank. It all looks good to me so excited to finish. Can't wait


----------



## Neo Zuko

After looking at the EK Bay Res, sure enough the inlet is very high. While that works I'm not sure I want to mess with it anymore. Thanks, you convinced me to go with EK's tube reservoirs instead. The only question is do I use that dual D5 pump top with one res (no shiny cover) or go john woo style with separate res/pump combos (with shiny covers).


----------



## GunfighterAK

First water cooled build with acrylic pipes, alphacool rads, dual d5 top for back up.


----------



## aznpersuazn

I forgot to post this here:


----------



## VSG

Any idea how the new Sharkoon fans are? There is a massdrop on the 120mm variants out now:

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/sharkoon-blade-fans


----------



## skupples

idk, but those blades look kinda skinny for rad fans.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznpersuazn*
> 
> I forgot to post this here:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome looking sfc build







. Looks like you're running dye?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Any idea how the new Sharkoon fans are? There is a massdrop on the 120mm variants out now:
> 
> https://www.massdrop.com/buy/sharkoon-blade-fans


These are some wicked looking fans. Not sure if design is for looks or airflow. My Cougars have veins on them but I've haven't delved into that as they're working (and looking) awesome







. Super quiet


----------



## aznpersuazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome looking sfc build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Looks like you're running dye?


Thanks! I'm running distilled water and Swiftech's Hydrx Biocide/ Anti-Corrosion Coolant. I wish they had a new formula that looked blue







The only thing close to it is their blue pre-mixed coolant.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznpersuazn*
> 
> Thanks! I'm running distilled water and Swiftech's Hydrx Biocide/ Anti-Corrosion Coolant. I wish they had a new formula that looked blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing close to it is their blue pre-mixed coolant.


I'll be sure to bring this up on Monday. I'm sure you're not the only one that would prefer to get our blue coolant in a concentrated formula.


----------



## VSG

Bryan, an option of colors in your Hydrx concentrate range would be great!


----------



## aznpersuazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll be sure to bring this up on Monday. I'm sure you're not the only one that would prefer to get our blue coolant in a concentrated formula.


It would be greatly appreciated Bram!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> First water cooled build with acrylic pipes, alphacool rads, dual d5 top for back up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really digging your build mate,hopefully one day i can go acrylic and make mine look half as good....


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I hope those SanAce120's aren't as noisy as the pair of SanAce80's I have in my box of bits from my old PC. They shift a hell of a lot of air but sound like fighter jets on full power.


Some of the San Ace are extremely loud, the 6,000rpm and 10,000rpm aluminum frame designs, but mine are the Sanyo Denki San Ace "Silent Type-S", and they are inaudible, 6db to 8db above the sound floor at 30inches from the human ear at 1000rpm and anything less.

I run mine with the Aquaero 6 at 600rpm dual front unobstructed intake, 700rpm radiator IN, and 800rpm rear exhaust, not a sound, not a peep, they are unheard, the way fans should always be.

They are the fans Seasonic places in their Platinum rated PSUs and also Corsair's Seasonic-Based designs.

Everyone seems to think they cost $50 each, not true, I purchased two recently on-sale for $17.02 each, with shipping still only $22each, they are industrial grade server fans made to run in silence 24/7 for 10years or more and worth every penny.

I also believe they look fantastic, retro industrial minimalistic freaking beautiful to my eyes.

I love the deep pitch on the blades...The sexiest fans I've ever seen also happen to be the most decibel efficient.









They are still on sale for $17.02, only 19 left at that price then they go back to $29.99, here is where you get them:

http://www.newark.com/sanyo-denki-sanace-fans/9s1212m4011/axial-fan-130ma-12v/dp/03P9424

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/M...0px-LL-2531ce21_IMG_1300_zps0104c603.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6479_zpsddda0841.jpg.html


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I also believe they look fantastic, retro industrial minimalistic freaking beautiful to my eyes.


I recently bought a few 120x38 mm San Aces, and I concur. They're very well built, and I really
dig the classic look they have to them. I'm also quite fond of some of Papst's fans, also built
very well and similarly matter-of-fact design, although they're not very well known these days.

But back in the early 2000s Papst fans were the fans to get for W/C around here (Germany/
Switzerland/Austria), if you could find them and had the money (they're not exactly cheap).


----------



## dna-systems

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> First water cooled build with acrylic pipes, alphacool rads, dual d5 top for back up.






Love it. Rigid tube just rocks.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm always amazed at the number of builds in this thread that are their creator's FIRST builds! I remember how hard my first build was and how nervous I was just installing my first CPU. To think of trying to also do a full custom loop, as well as using rigid acrylic tubing in my very first build just seems like it would be impossible! Kudos for you guys that do manage to pull this off, I sure needed a lot more practice before diving into water cooling...


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm always amazed at the number of builds in this thread that are their creator's FIRST builds! I remember how hard my first build was and how nervous I was just installing my first CPU. To think of trying to also do a full custom loop, as well as using rigid acrylic tubing in my very first build just seems like it would be impossible! Kudos for you guys that do manage to pull this off, I sure needed a lot more practice before diving into water cooling...


JUST


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm always amazed at the number of builds in this thread that are their creator's FIRST builds! I remember how hard my first build was and how nervous I was just installing my first CPU. To think of trying to also do a full custom loop, as well as using rigid acrylic tubing in my very first build just seems like it would be impossible! Kudos for you guys that do manage to pull this off, I sure needed a lot more practice before diving into water cooling...


If you are good at DIY and building things then water cooling is easy, it just steals your money. I'm sixteen and my first W/C loop is a full loop with acrylic tubes, and I had one meter of tube to practice on.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> If you are good at DIY and building things then water cooling is easy, it just steals your money. I'm sixteen and my first W/C loop is a full loop with acrylic tubes, and I had one meter of tube to practice on.


but 'most' of todays 'kids' are easily able to pick things up quite quickly. its something in the water im telling you. not really, its the chem-trails...


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> but 'most' of todays 'kids' are easily able to pick things up quite quickly. its something in the water im telling you. not really, its the chem-trails...


True that, the only things holding us back from taking over the world is money problems


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Very true, there must be something un the food/water....I remember my first tablet and how I had to learn how to use it, now my 2 and a half yr old plays with my ipad like he was born with it....the only thing he cnt realky do is a google search







cnt imagine what he'll start dojbg when he learns to type....


----------



## jamaican voodoo

your not the only my 1+ year old son already know to unlock my for and go an facebook lol..it scary!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm always amazed at the number of builds in this thread that are their creator's FIRST builds! I remember how hard my first build was and how nervous I was just installing my first CPU. To think of trying to also do a full custom loop, as well as using rigid acrylic tubing in my very first build just seems like it would be impossible! Kudos for you guys that do manage to pull this off, I sure needed a lot more practice before diving into water cooling...


I think this is mainly down to people being given the information to do these different things,little snippets that make life go easier.

I used to dread LGA sockets then i realized that a ball of blu tack in the center of the chip means i can pick it up and put it in completely flat without dropping in one edge. Never ruined a socket.
Its just the same with the tube,show a method of use and people will ALWAYS try it out.

And I applaud those that try.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Information is key, you are so right....My first build was about 2 yrs ago, and learned how to build a pc because of this forum....My first/current water cooled build was some months ago, I was nervous as hell to do it, yet because of all the info and help from this thread it became easier than I thought it would be....So thx you B Neg for this thread and all the members for making the info easy to come by.....You guys helped me bigtime and I'm sure I will always be asking and learning from you all....


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm doing my first build. It's a full blown Casemod, Big Loop in a Small Chassis, with acrylic tubing. I blame OCN and all of BNEG's guide's for brainwashing me


----------



## Pendaz

I'm getting ever closer to my first build. i just wanted to run this buy you guys for some opinions

I think chances are i'll be putting my GPU under water initially, then after next payday i'll include the CPU so with that in mind, here's what i've been looking at:

XSPC RayStorm 750 EX240

or

EK KIT L120

or maybe someone could suggest another kit in a similar price range, i'm looking to spend around £150 max?

I'm kinda leaning towards the Raystorm, for the larger rad - bigger is better overiously? and the fact that the res fits in the cddrive bays if im not mistaken? But as for the rest of the included parts in the kits idk

thanks in advance


----------



## VSG

I am not a big fan of bay reservoirs but I would still take that XSPC kit though- it is better for the money.


----------



## Pendaz

Unfortunately i'm a little restricted for space :/


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Very true, there must be something un the food/water....I remember my first tablet and how I had to learn how to use it, now my 2 and a half yr old plays with my ipad like he was born with it....the only thing he cnt realky do is a google search
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cnt imagine what he'll start dojbg when he learns to type....


Huh, what ever in the food/water must still be working on me. Than again I probably still considered young since I am only 23. But, I still thank my Dad to this day at showing me a how to use a Windows 3.1 and how to use computer at his job ( it was all terminal, no fancy GUI) when I think I was like only 3-4 years old, and the basic simple computer class in pre-school.

Though, I get a kick out of people around in Cali being surprise I know how to put computers together and such, with my Southern accent and being a gal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm doing my first build. It's a full blown Casemod, Big Loop in a Small Chassis, with acrylic tubing. I blame OCN and all of BNEG's guide's for brainwashing me


Hehe, I have got to the point I stop counting how much I spent on my current rebuild. Being my first full custom loop, I keep spending, but it still not even up and running yet.


----------



## Pendaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> I'm getting ever closer to my first build. i just wanted to run this buy you guys for some opinions
> 
> I think chances are i'll be putting my GPU under water initially, then after next payday i'll include the CPU so with that in mind, here's what i've been looking at:
> 
> XSPC RayStorm 750 EX240
> 
> or
> 
> EK KIT L120
> 
> or maybe someone could suggest another kit in a similar price range, i'm looking to spend around £150 max?
> 
> I'm kinda leaning towards the Raystorm, for the larger rad - bigger is better overiously? and the fact that the res fits in the cddrive bays if im not mistaken? But as for the rest of the included parts in the kits idk
> 
> thanks in advance


reposted due to being at the bottom of the page







anyone else have an opinion?


----------



## Noviets

Hey guys, just a simple question. If I hook up an 8 port PWM adapter to the PWM CPU 4 pin, and have my pump on port 1 and all the rad fans etc on the others. Can receiving a too high of a signal cause the pump to overwork its self?

Im going with the D5 X-TOP I want to set up the fan curve in the bios to max everything out at 60C, It should idle around 20-25ish. So I can OC the chip as high as I can while maintaining max cooling if it's needed. I'm using compression fittings so I doubt they tubes can pop off.

First time watercooler just trying to figure out the little things


----------



## kpoeticg

I think mixing PWM devices on the same splitter can "possibly" cause issue's. The Intel spec for PWM is a 25kHz pulse. But i think it's allowed to be ~5kHz off in either direction and still be considered spec. Meaning the controller and fan/pump will still be able to communicate with each other. But mixing frequencies on the same splitter could possibly cause complications.

Anybody (Darlene) feel free to correct me if i'm wrong about this

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> I'm getting ever closer to my first build. i just wanted to run this buy you guys for some opinions
> 
> I think chances are i'll be putting my GPU under water initially, then after next payday i'll include the CPU so with that in mind, here's what i've been looking at:
> 
> XSPC RayStorm 750 EX240
> 
> or
> 
> EK KIT L120
> 
> or maybe someone could suggest another kit in a similar price range, i'm looking to spend around £150 max?
> 
> I'm kinda leaning towards the Raystorm, for the larger rad - bigger is better overiously? and the fact that the res fits in the cddrive bays if im not mistaken? But as for the rest of the included parts in the kits idk
> 
> thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> reposted due to being at the bottom of the page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone else have an opinion?
Click to expand...

Honestly, i don't know if either of those are a good solution for a CPU + GPU Loop. Trying to save money in certain aspects of watercooling, especially the pump, can end up costing you more in the end.

If you're gonna get an XSPC Kit, i strongly recommend one of their D5 kits. D5 is a great pump.

Also, definitely get a 360 or 2x240's to cool your cpu + gpu.

If that's truly your budget, you might be better off getting something like an h100i for your CPU and an h80i with a GPU Bracket for your GPU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm doing my first build. It's a full blown Casemod, Big Loop in a Small Chassis, with acrylic tubing. I blame OCN and all of BNEG's guide's for brainwashing me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe, I have got to the point I stop counting how much I spent on my current rebuild. Being my first full custom loop, I keep spending, but it still not even up and running yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. I intentionally haven't added everything up yet. Too scurred
> Also same about it not being up and running. This is the most current pic
Click to expand...


----------



## Simplynicko

Got a build log going on.

Industrial Revolution - Lian Li PC-Z70 w/copper piping & 90deg rotated mobo
http://www.overclock.net/t/1477826/build-log-industrial-revolution-lian-li-pc-z70-w-copper-piping-90deg-rotated-mobo/0_100


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Hey guys, just a simple question. If I hook up an 8 port PWM adapter to the PWM CPU 4 pin, and have my pump on port 1 and all the rad fans etc on the others. Can receiving a too high of a signal cause the pump to overwork its self?
> 
> Im going with the D5 X-TOP I want to set up the fan curve in the bios to max everything out at 60C, It should idle around 20-25ish. So I can OC the chip as high as I can while maintaining max cooling if it's needed. I'm using compression fittings so I doubt they tubes can pop off.
> 
> First time watercooler just trying to figure out the little things


There is no such thing as too high a PWM signal. 100% PWM is 100% pump speed on the PWM d5.

The issue with mixing PWM devices can be that they have very different PWM response curves. So that for example 70% PWM might have fans running at 70% speed but the pump is running at 100% or you might want a low PWM % for quiet fans at idle but that would make the pump run very slow. A 35X curve for example about 15% to 60% PWM is the range from min to max speed.

The PWM D5 may be one of the better devices to do this with though as it has a quite straight response curve from 10% to 100%. That doesn't guarantee that both will be doing the speeds you want at the same times though, it would depend on the fans you mix it with.

Actively controlling pump speed gives very little benefit anyway.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Hey guys, just a simple question. If I hook up an 8 port PWM adapter to the PWM CPU 4 pin, and have my pump on port 1 and all the rad fans etc on the others. Can receiving a too high of a signal cause the pump to overwork its self?
> 
> Im going with the D5 X-TOP I want to set up the fan curve in the bios to max everything out at 60C, It should idle around 20-25ish. So I can OC the chip as high as I can while maintaining max cooling if it's needed. I'm using compression fittings so I doubt they tubes can pop off.
> 
> First time watercooler just trying to figure out the little things


This shouldn't be an issue. It will depend on what fans you use though as to how well this will actually work. If you're using a straight splitter like ours then some fans, specifically Corsair's fans, tend to have issues. They require a higher PWM signal than most other PWM fans and therefore if you put more than three or four of their fans on this splitter everything defaults to full speed. So far these are the only fans that appear to cause this issue.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Hey guys, just a simple question. If I hook up an 8 port PWM adapter to the PWM CPU 4 pin, and have my pump on port 1 and all the rad fans etc on the others. Can receiving a too high of a signal cause the pump to overwork its self?
> 
> Im going with the D5 X-TOP I want to set up the fan curve in the bios to max everything out at 60C, It should idle around 20-25ish. So I can OC the chip as high as I can while maintaining max cooling if it's needed. I'm using compression fittings so I doubt they tubes can pop off.
> 
> First time watercooler just trying to figure out the little things


Just get a D5 vario with manual speed,set it and forget it.Keep your 8 pin PWM splitter and set your fans to what ever you want with out it conflicting with your pump speeds.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Hey guys, just a simple question. If I hook up an 8 port PWM adapter to the PWM CPU 4 pin, and have my pump on port 1 and all the rad fans etc on the others. Can receiving a too high of a signal cause the pump to overwork its self?
> 
> Im going with the D5 X-TOP I want to set up the fan curve in the bios to max everything out at 60C, It should idle around 20-25ish. So I can OC the chip as high as I can while maintaining max cooling if it's needed. I'm using compression fittings so I doubt they tubes can pop off.
> 
> First time watercooler just trying to figure out the little things
> 
> 
> 
> There is no such thing as too high a PWM signal. 100% PWM is 100% pump speed on the PWM d5.
> 
> The issue with mixing PWM devices can be that they have very different PWM response curves. So that for example 70% PWM might have fans running at 70% speed but the pump is running at 100% or you might want a low PWM % for quiet fans at idle but that would make the pump run very slow. A 35X curve for example about 15% to 60% PWM is the range from min to max speed.
> 
> The PWM D5 may be one of the better devices to do this with though as it has a quite straight response curve from 10% to 100%. That doesn't guarantee that both will be doing the speeds you want at the same times though, it would depend on the fans you mix it with.
> 
> *Actively controlling pump speed gives very little benefit anyway.*
Click to expand...

So much this,set the speed to the highest you can tolerate noise wise then leave it. Job done.
I have been saying this since forever....


----------



## skupples

listening to a pump rev up is probably the most annoying thing ever.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think this is mainly down to people being given the information to do these different things,little snippets that make life go easier.


Yeah, things today are quite a bit different from when I did my first W/C loop. Information was much less
readily available back then (if at all), so you needed to figure out lots of things yourself that you can just
look up today in a tutorial or ask in places like this one. Also, it was much more DIY-style, no case was
able to fit any sort of radiator in stock config, there was always cutting involved, for example, there were
not special w/c pumps, radiatosr were repurposed rads from A/C units or cars or w/e, and so on.

This isn't supposed to be like "things used to be better" or "today's folks have it so easy, things were
hard back then, blablabla", it's just something I noticed. I think it's quite awesome how the modding and
W/C scene have taken off since then, but I also fondly remember the olden days when things were a
bit more ghetto. It's been quite a journey for me personally.


----------



## stickg1

What is a respectable idle temp delta between ambient and water temp? I'm working with about 2.5C right now.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What is a respectable idle temp delta between ambient and water temp? I'm working with about 2.5C right now.


Is that load or idle....? Would love to know too,mine is 3c when idle....


----------



## maxforces

cm 830


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, people usually shoot for about 10C under load. 2.5C is excellent.

Edit: @maxforces, great job modding that thing. That airbrushing is kinda crazy, i like it


----------



## stickg1

Thats just idle. Load it's hard to tell because I think my external air temp sensor is too close to the case and the positive pressure inside the case causes the hot air to be forced out right near the sensor. If I raise the speed of my fans or put my CPU/GPU under heavy load my air temp gradually rises.

I've been so busy lately haven't had much time for my PC. Probably a good thing for my wallet! But sometime's I just pop the top on a cold one and sit here and admire my rig while I see what you hooligans are up to on my favorite threads.









EDIT: Load temps typically run 7C-11C delta. Idle is the one that's around 2C-3C.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, usually there's not much heat being generated at idle. So low delta would be normal. 10C is just what people usually shoot for because it's what every1 uses for testing. 10C would be incredible under load tho


----------



## Mydog

Here I got a delta of 2,5 C idle on the CPU loop and 1 C on the GPU loop, CPU (4960X) is OC'ed to 4.7 GHz with 1,35 vcore but I'm using "balanced" setting in Windows Power Option when I'm not gaming or benching.
Not tested load delta but will do it now on both loops.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What is a respectable idle temp delta between ambient and water temp? I'm working with about 2.5C right now.


Under full load, I currently get ~13 C (2 CPUs, 1 M/B plus 1 GPU on a HWL SR-1 560, fans
turned down to ~5 V). Full load being full load for both CPUs and the GPU. I'm happy even
with that, but it'll go down once I finish the rig (adding more radiators).


----------



## stickg1

Probably make an impact just kicking the fansup to 7v.

I run my 5x Silverstone FQ121's (PWM) at ~1300RPM. Running a Coolgate 240mm UP (60mm thick) and a XSPC RX360v2 (~60mm thick) just push. I can't barely hear them and they still move some decent air.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Probably make an impact just kicking the fansup to 7v.


Definitely, I've tried it out and temps drop significantly. But the rig is in my bedroom,
running 24/7, so silence is more important. And it's not like I get bad temps, CPU
and GPU temps are both somewhere around 45 C (with ~23 C ambient).


----------



## stickg1

Nice! My GPU stays cool (GTX 780 @ ~43C full load). My CPU gets a little warm. 3570K @4.8GHz using 1.35v will hit in the low 60s at full load.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Nice! My GPU stays cool (GTX 780 @ ~43C full load). My CPU gets a little warm. 3570K @4.8GHz using 1.35v will hit in the low 60s at full load.


I'm pretty sure my CPUs will get warmer once I overclock/overvolt them, but I haven't
gotten around to that part yet, so temps are nicely cool for the moment.


----------



## Chomuco

Hello 750D



http://imgur.com/a/fJQhv


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Nice! My GPU stays cool (GTX 780 @ ~43C full load). My CPU gets a little warm. 3570K @4.8GHz using 1.35v will hit in the low 60s at full load.


Damn son, I can't get my 3570k past 4.5


----------



## stickg1

I can do 5.1 just don't see the need unless benching. I might lower it to 4.5 to see if it makes a big difference in temps.


----------



## Anoxy

Guess I lost the silicon lottery. Probably wouldn't make any noticeable difference in my daily computing tasks anyway


----------



## skupples

4.5 is rather low even for the crappiest of 3570k's, my guess is you just need to get in there & mess with the secondary voltages a bit more.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 4.5 is rather low even for the crappiest of 3570k's, my guess is you just need to get in there & mess with the secondary voltages a bit more.


lottery was not that good to me either. Mine does 4.5 @1.35v(70c prime95) and 4.7 @ 1.45v(80c prime95). Anything higher is not stable. Not really sure what other voltages to mess with other than vcore.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> lottery was not that good to me either. Mine does 4.5 @1.35v(70c prime95) and 4.7 @ 1.45v(80c prime95). Anything higher is not stable. Not really sure what other voltages to mess with other than vcore.


Don't feel bad. I lost the silicon lottery with IVB too. 3770k takes 1.33v to have a 36hr stable p95 run. Any lower and I'll BSOD during computationally intensive situations such as 25 man raiding in WoW (where all the computation is done computer side before sent to the server). Haven't even bothered trying to go higher with it because I'm trying to fight the urge to delid so I can at least retain some value in the chip to fun Haswell-e down the line.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I thought everybody lost the silicon lottery with IB?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I thought everybody lost the silicon lottery with IB?


Not with later chips. There were a few golden batches out there towards EOL.


----------



## Angrychair

im happy with 24/7 4.5Ghz, I've ran 4.7Ghz for months but I felt like 4.5 is good enough unless benching and chip life. Of course I would love to join the 5ghz club. Next rig hopefully, haswell E mini itx build.


----------



## szeged

You guys need to let me buy the chips for you


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Lol, when I get Haswell-E I'm sending my $$$ down to Szeged to buy it for me!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Problem is no Microcenter in Florida


----------



## friskiest

My 3570k does 4.9 @ 1.248v
My 4930k does 4.5 @ you don't want to know


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Ash2097

What 120mm fans are people using for rads now? I have Gentle Typhoons throughout my system but now gone from a 360 to 480 rad so need another fan.

I can't get hold of any Typhoons so need an alternative.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cougars #1










This freaken guy has like 100 of these cougars so maybe look into those.







yup like seriously a 100 cougar fans, all in one case.


----------



## SinatraFan

I have to agree with the Cougars. I have 28 of them in my cube build. They are QUIET and flow air very well


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> What 120mm fans are people using for rads now? I have Gentle Typhoons throughout my system but now gone from a 360 to 480 rad so need another fan.
> 
> I can't get hold of any Typhoons so need an alternative.


If you don't mind paying international fees frozen has them. They say they are out of stock but if you setup an email alert they will probably have more stock in a few days. I've been monitoring the past couple of weeks and this seems to be a trend. Out of stock, in stock etc....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> lottery was not that good to me either. Mine does 4.5 @1.35v(70c prime95) and 4.7 @ 1.45v(80c prime95). Anything higher is not stable. Not really sure what other voltages to mess with other than vcore.


VCCSA/VTT/PLL.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Has anyone used these yet....

PrimoChill Ghost Compression Fittings For Flexible Tubing - Rubber Grip


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cougars #1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This freaken guy has like 100 of these cougars so maybe look into those.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yup like seriously a 100 cougar fans, all in one case.
Click to expand...


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Have you decided on which gpus you'll be going with? I read through that nasty rant post over the past few days.


----------



## derickwm

Which house...?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxforces*
> 
> cm 830


That acrylis window NEEDS to be on the inside!!! LOL I think it would look so much better but amazing build otherwise
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


OMG UNREAL!! LOL


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Which house...?


Sorry. Dang auto correct on my phone lol I meant gpus .


----------



## derickwm

Ah. 4× 7970 Matrix


----------



## MeanBruce

My very first Tooooooooooooooooooooooooo-bing. Water Cooling Nooob-ody!









Wow, just under $20 for 4 feet of tubing. It looks nice though, just what I wanted understated and industrial. Had to go with Frozen, since PPCS doesn't carry the Tygon A-60-G Norprene, I shouldn't complain about price since only using three lengths of tubing and six compression fittings.

Still, if I told any automotive enthusiast this cost $20, he'd probably laugh at me.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6707_zpsfaa0bd68.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6709_zpsbe733aba.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6710_zps4691a2d3.jpg.html


----------



## gdubc

Mmmmmm....love for the norprene.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> My very first Tooooooooooooooooooooooooo-bing. Water Cooling Nooob-ody!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, just under $20 for 4 feet of tubing. It looks nice though, just what I wanted understated and industrial. Had to go with Frozen, since PPCS doesn't carry the Tygon A-60-G Norprene, I shouldn't complain about price since only using three lengths of tubing and six compression fittings.
> 
> Still, if I told any automotive enthusiast this cost $20, he'd probably laugh at me.
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6707_zpsfaa0bd68.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6709_zpsbe733aba.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6710_zps4691a2d3.jpg.html


Hmmm wonder if I can get that via my shops accounts with our part houses lol.


----------



## Kimir

Yep, me likey too.
but 4 feet $20, outch! Here it's not that pricey.


----------



## pc-illiterate

usp is only an hour and half drive away and can ship here in 2 days. less than $1.50/foot for 1/2"x5/8" also requiring new size clamps. i think i am done buying primochill.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxforces*
> 
> cm 830
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow. What does it eat and how often do you have to feed it? Will it let you hold it? Does it bite? It sure looks like it bites.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> usp is only an hour and half drive away and can ship here in 2 days. less than $1.50/foot for 1/2"x5/8" also requiring new size clamps. i think i am done buying primochill.


Noob question? is there any benefits to using neoprene. or is it just a visual thing


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Noob question? is there any benefits to using neoprene. or is it just a visual thing


Norprene will not leach plasticiser like other soft tubing does. I use Norprene now but was using Primochill advance and every time I cleaned my CPU I had to remove at least a small amount of gunk from the fins. That is the idea of it anyways.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yep, me likey too.
> but 4 feet $20, outch! Here it's not that pricey.


They have good pricing but on 3/8 ID is still $20 ish for 4 ft


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> My very first Tooooooooooooooooooooooooo-bing. Water Cooling Nooob-ody!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, just under $20 for 4 feet of tubing. It looks nice though, just what I wanted understated and industrial. Had to go with Frozen, since PPCS doesn't carry the Tygon A-60-G Norprene, I shouldn't complain about price since only using three lengths of tubing and six compression fittings.
> 
> Still, if I told any automotive enthusiast this cost $20, he'd probably laugh at me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6707_zpsfaa0bd68.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6709_zpsbe733aba.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6710_zps4691a2d3.jpg.html


Why so sexy?!


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> They have good pricing but on 3/8 ID is still $20 ish for 4 ft


I must be confusing something here then, because they are selling it by 1 meter and 4 feet is 1,22 meter.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> They have good pricing but on 3/8 ID is still $20 ish for 4 ft


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I must be confusing something here then, because they are selling it by 1 meter and 4 feet is 1,22 meter.


That's the large over 1" tubing.
Here is the page with the tubing for our purposes.


3/8x1/2 is $1.36/ft
1/2x5/8 is $2/ft
1/2x3/4 is $3.82/ft


----------



## skupples

Norprene=\= neoprene. Similar but not the same thing. Tygon is selling norprene. Nonleeching. But it is really stiff and kinks easily.. It is a pita to work with in tight spaces.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Norprene=\= neoprene. Similar but not the same thing. Tygon is selling norprene. Nonleeching. But it is really stiff and kinks easily.. It is a pita to work with in tight spaces.


That previous post of mine was for the tygon norprene


----------



## Kimir

Ah ok, this some big tubing








I'll be using the 10/13mm (3/8" 1/2") one


----------



## DarthBaggins

Surprised that didn't come up on my app I was using, but yeah I thought that was some big tubing lol.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I must be confusing something here then, because they are selling it by 1 meter and 4 feet is 1,22 meter.


Doh, no I didn't see per meter just normally think price is per foot like on ppc on FCPU


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey Kizwan you added the rad yet. ..?


I managed to do it last weekends. Took 9 hours (from 1 am to 10 am); replaced stock EK thermal pad to Fujipoly Extreme thermal pad, replaced EK Eco..something something TIM to Shin-Etsu G751 TIM & added SR-1 120 rad in the loop. I spent too much time brainstorming the best way to mount the SR-1 120 rad. I'm not happy with the drain valve & the tubing run from 120 rad to front rad.







A bit squeeze with the side panel on.

Bad lighting unfortunately, sorry.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Why so sexy?!


I hope I can keep it looking nice, another first timer here, first water loop and I'm trying to complete the project without a reservoir, just a crazy idea I had to make a custom all-in-one.









Another new component added today:

I met Hank today, CEO of Performance PCS, extremely nice guy great personality and fun to talk to, he knows everything about water cooling, he kept the shop open a few minutes so I could pick up the XSPC copper block, a new shipment right off the boat from England, thanks man you're awesome.

The copper block only ships with the bare aluminum mounting plate, sort of like the Aquaero 6 and the stainless steel front plate. Low and behold yes, you have to pay extra for the black plate, just like the Aquaero, this time $14.95, but the black looks so outstanding against the copper foreground.

Thanks Performance PCs.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6727_zpsfb5085ce.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6728_zps10cda2d2.jpg.html

XSPC Copper and an Aquaero 6 XT:

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6729_zps9abfb21d.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

It's kinda pathetic that they don't bundle in the accessory black plate or at least give us the option to choose the front plate when buying these products.


----------



## badkarma3059

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I hope I can keep it looking nice, another first timer here, first water loop and I'm trying to complete the project without a reservoir, just a crazy idea I had to make a custom all-in-one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another new component added today:
> 
> I met Hank today, CEO of Performance PCS, extremely nice guy great personality and fun to talk to, he knows everything about water cooling, he kept the shop open a few minutes so I could pick up the XSPC copper block, a new shipment right off the boat from England, thanks man you're awesome.
> 
> The copper block only ships with the bare aluminum mounting plate, sort of like the Aquaero 6 and the stainless steel front plate. Low and behold yes, you have to pay extra for the black plate, just like the Aquaero, this time $14.95, but the black looks so outstanding against the copper foreground.
> 
> Thanks Performance PCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6727_zpsfb5085ce.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6728_zps10cda2d2.jpg.html
> 
> XSPC Copper and an Aquaero 6 XT:
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6729_zps9abfb21d.jpg.html


When I think nothing looks more sexy than my copper raystorm, you go and post up that pic. Im not jealous, really, Im not








Lookin good man


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I hope I can keep it looking nice, another first timer here, first water loop and I'm trying to complete the project without a reservoir, just a crazy idea I had to make a custom all-in-one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another new component added today:
> 
> I met Hank today, CEO of Performance PCS, extremely nice guy great personality and fun to talk to, he knows everything about water cooling, he kept the shop open a few minutes so I could pick up the XSPC copper block, a new shipment right off the boat from England, thanks man you're awesome.
> 
> The copper block only ships with the bare aluminum mounting plate, sort of like the Aquaero 6 and the stainless steel front plate. Low and behold yes, you have to pay extra for the black plate, just like the Aquaero, this time $14.95, but the black looks so outstanding against the copper foreground.
> 
> Thanks Performance PCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6727_zpsfb5085ce.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6728_zps10cda2d2.jpg.html
> 
> XSPC Copper and an Aquaero 6 XT:
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6729_zps9abfb21d.jpg.html


Thats the first XSPC block that I find attractive. I'm really diggin the all black with copper one.


----------



## TwentyCent

I would've painted that ish


----------



## stickg1

My 380i takes selfies..


----------



## derickwm

I see your 380i and raise you two Ice Forces


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I managed to do it last weekends. Took 9 hours (from 1 am to 10 am); replaced stock EK thermal pad to Fujipoly Extreme thermal pad, replaced EK Eco..something something TIM to Shin-Etsu G751 TIM & added SR-1 120 rad in the loop. I spent too much time brainstorming the best way to mount the SR-1 120 rad. I'm not happy with the drain valve & the tubing run from 120 rad to front rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bit squeeze with the side panel on.
> 
> Bad lighting unfortunately, sorry.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You do need some angle fittings,notice any difference in temps....?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I hope I can keep it looking nice, another first timer here, first water loop and I'm trying to complete the project without a reservoir, just a crazy idea I had to make a custom all-in-one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another new component added today:
> 
> I met Hank today, CEO of Performance PCS, extremely nice guy great personality and fun to talk to, he knows everything about water cooling, he kept the shop open a few minutes so I could pick up the XSPC copper block, a new shipment right off the boat from England, thanks man you're awesome.
> 
> The copper block only ships with the bare aluminum mounting plate, sort of like the Aquaero 6 and the stainless steel front plate. Low and behold yes, you have to pay extra for the black plate, just like the Aquaero, this time $14.95, but the black looks so outstanding against the copper foreground.
> 
> Thanks Performance PCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6727_zpsfb5085ce.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6728_zps10cda2d2.jpg.html
> 
> XSPC Copper and an Aquaero 6 XT:
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6729_zps9abfb21d.jpg.html


Oooh I want one, tired of my Acetyl topped one. But seeing they are only made for Intel Chipsets. . guessing they would fit in the AMD mounting hardware


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I see your 380i and raise you two Ice Forces


Those are still the most beautiful blocks ever made


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I see your 380i and raise you two Ice Forces
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah I can't match that! Next best thing I have is a cute puppy dog though! I'd take a pic but shes sleepy.


----------



## derickwm

I'll trade you all 6 blocks in that photo for said cute puppy.


----------



## phynce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Oooh I want one, tired of my Acetyl topped one. But seeing they are only made for Intel Chipsets. . guessing they would fit in the AMD mounting hardware


should work just fine with the amd mounting kit

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsraadkitfor.html


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'll trade you all 6 blocks in that photo for said cute puppy.


No way, she means the world to me! Even if she is a terrible walker and destroys any socks, shoes, and undies she can get her paws on. lol.

I'll go out to check to the mail and come back and like an entire roll of paper towels is shredded and my shoelaces have been chewed off. And she just has this pitiful look on her face like, "I thought you left me forevers!





















"


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I see your 380i and raise you two Ice Forces


I see your fire hazard & raise you an empty STH-10.



found out walmart sells black paracord, and black heat shrink!







means I can sleeve my new pump w/o placing another random order that costs less than the shipping!


----------



## stickg1

Get one of their take-n-bake stuffed crust pizzas. You'll thank me later.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'll trade you all 6 blocks in that photo for said cute puppy.
> 
> 
> 
> No way, she means the world to me! Even if she is a terrible walker and destroys any socks, shoes, and undies she can get her paws on. lol.
> 
> I'll go out to check to the mail and come back and like an entire roll of paper towels is shredded and my shoelaces have been chewed off. And she just has this pitiful look on her face like, "I thought you left me forevers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
Click to expand...


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I see your fire hazard & raise you an empty STH-10.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> found out walmart sells black paracord, and black heat shrink!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> means I can sleeve my new pump w/o placing another random order that costs less than the shipping!


Is the paracode coreless?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Is the paracode coreless?


nope, but i'm only doing short lengths, so keeping it clean shouldn't be an issue. It is genuine 5050 paracord, right next to the walmart brand carabiners (scary)


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Is the paracode coreless?


Lutr0o sells coreless paracord.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Lutr0o sells coreless paracord.


Something weird's been up with Lutro0customs lately. I've been trying to be patient but it's wearing thin. Ordered / paid for ~$200 of items roughly a month ago and it arrived partially filled with a handwritten note that approx 1/3 of my order would ship "when they arrive back in stock". Hmmmm, It sure seemed to me that the site used to not let you order anything not in stock but it looks like they have removed all that and now you can order whatever is on the site and you just won't find out they didn't actually have it until you only get part of your order filled. Even after that full order didn't arrive, I saw a different item that had previously been listed as "sold out" was available for order so I placed another order with them, only to also have another partial order sent to me. At least in that instance the rest of that order was sent about a week later, but I'm still waiting on the rest of the order before it.

I traded emails with someone there (Jeremy/Josiah - an intern?) who said they would be sending the rest of my items later that week - that was almost ~3 weeks ago - and now for the past full week no one has replied to any of my emails. I've tried replying to the emails I had already received from Josiah the intern. I've tried contacting them through the site directly. And I've tried to the [email protected] address that keeps being linked in the emails I keep getting asking me to review various items I never even received.

All I want to know is some idea of when the rest of my order might get filled, but now I'm really not sure what's going on, but it's nothing like all my previous experiences with them. I would just be leery to order anything from Lutro0 right about now.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Something weird's been up with Lutro0customs lately. I've been trying to be patient but it's wearing thin. Ordered / paid for ~$200 of items roughly a month ago and it arrived partially filled with a handwritten note that approx 1/3 of my order would ship "when they arrive back in stock". Hmmmm, It sure seemed to me that the site used to not let you order anything not in stock but it looks like they have removed all that and now you can order whatever is on the site and you just won't find out they didn't actually have it until you only get part of your order filled. Even after that full order didn't arrive, I saw a different item that had previously been listed as "sold out" was available for order so I placed another order with them, only to also have another partial order sent to me. At least in that instance the rest of that order was sent about a week later, but I'm still waiting on the rest of the order before it.
> 
> I traded emails with someone there (Jeremy/Josiah - an intern?) who said they would be sending the rest of my items later that week - that was almost ~3 weeks ago - and now for the past full week no one has replied to any of my emails. I've tried replying to the emails I had already received from Josiah the intern. I've tried contacting them through the site directly. And I've tried to the [email protected] address that keeps being linked in the emails I keep getting asking me to review various items I never even received.
> 
> All I want to know is some idea of when the rest of my order might get filled, but now I'm really not sure what's going on, but it's nothing like all my previous experiences with them. I would just be leery to order anything from Lutro0 right about now.


They have likely grown too big for their britches. They are listed on multiple reseller websites now. Sounds like you may need to file a paypal dispute to wake them up.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

For sleeving, I ordered from MDPC-X, everything arrived quick. I would recommend MDPC-X to anyone wanting to sleeve.


----------



## skupples

people go to LUTR0O to have sleeving done for them, most of the time.

So, I have this AKASA triple PWM splitter. It has a molex. I should be able to remove that since all of my pumps have their own molex, correct?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Lutr0o sells coreless paracord.


Why not pull the Core out a little bit, heat it and then use it to pull the wires through the rest of the paracord... Making the Core useful and sleeve coreless... I have not done any sleeving, but I use paracord a lot for work.

Also, how many feet, on average, would it take to sleeve a system with 3 GPUs. Approximately is better than nothing.

Anyone have any idea where I could get a piece of aluminum to cover where the drive bays used to be. It is 150mm wide and about 400mm tall.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> For sleeving, I ordered from MDPC-X, everything arrived quick. I would recommend MDPC-X to anyone wanting to sleeve.


international al charges?

yes but how custom of orders do they do they are alol the way out in Germany aren't they? what other options do we have because I cannot use Lutros gold its not what Im looking for but they are trying to get it in their telios brand which I would duffice for if its like the MDPC Valinna sands sleeving.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They have likely grown too big for their britches. They are listed on multiple reseller websites now. Sounds like you may need to file a paypal dispute to wake them up.


Yeah. I hope my issues are just a delay due to being so busy and nothing more than that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> For sleeving, I ordered from MDPC-X, everything arrived quick. I would recommend MDPC-X to anyone wanting to sleeve.


Yeah I've ordered from Nils many times. Great guy! Welll worth ordering from across the pond. He doesn't carry everything I need though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> people go to LUTR0O to have sleeving done for them, most of the time. ...


I've never had any custom sleeving done for me. I much prefer to do just about everything I can myself. Probably half of the stuff you can see here I've gotten from either Lutro0 or MDPC.


Quote:


> ... So, I have this AKASA triple PWM splitter. It has a molex. I should be able to remove that since all of my pumps have their own molex, correct?


Without having that splitter here to look at, or a PWM pump myself, I want to say yes, that should be ok. The pump should effectively be it's own splitter taking only the rpm and pwm from the mobo and the 12v and grd from the psu.


----------



## skupples

That is even worse... You ordered JUST supplies, and it is still super late?











I have an entire extra set of EVGA G2 1300W PSU cables, so I may start in on doing a black/white/gray sleeving some day.

I would just need to buy an extra set of cables for the 860 so i have zero down time while doing the work.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I managed to do it last weekends. Took 9 hours (from 1 am to 10 am); replaced stock EK thermal pad to Fujipoly Extreme thermal pad, replaced EK Eco..something something TIM to Shin-Etsu G751 TIM & added SR-1 120 rad in the loop. I spent too much time brainstorming the best way to mount the SR-1 120 rad. I'm not happy with the drain valve & the tubing run from 120 rad to front rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bit squeeze with the side panel on.
> 
> Bad lighting unfortunately, sorry.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You do need some angle fittings,notice any difference in temps....?
Click to expand...

Yup, I need to change the two 45 degrees angle fittings on the front rad with two 90 degrees + male-to-female extender. Then I can move the drain ball valve back to front rad. I like the tube bend a lot though. I use H100 fans on the SR-1 120, push/pull. They're louder than SP120. Once I record the temps @full RPM, then I can dial down all the fans to 50 - 60%.

I do noticed temps drop, especially water temp, down few degrees. The 290 VRM1 running a lot cooler now thanks to Fujipoly Extreme thermal pad. Really worth it especially after I paid $42 for international shipping for just the thermal pad.

BTW, my fan controller is 10W/channel. The SP120 is 0.25A. So, three of them will be 9W total. Is it good idea to connect three SP120 to one channel? You know during cold boot, the fans ramp up to full speed before settle down to the speed we set in the fan controller.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Scythe Gentle Typhoon Fanboy here: all of my fans are now AP-15s


----------



## skupples

I have 40, and hope they never die!

Wondering if I should go to the trouble of tearing them down then lubing them while everything is apart for the rebuild.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 40, and hope they never die!
> 
> Wondering if I should go to the trouble of tearing them down then lubing them while everything is apart for the rebuild.


40? Yikes! I only have 11, maybe I'm not such a fanboy after all


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 40? Yikes! I only have 11, maybe I'm not such a fanboy after all












I acquired enough to run p/p on all my rads + a few extra. 3x 480s and a 360 = 30 fans, + use them as case fans + extras. Hopefully they come back some day.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Something weird's been up with Lutro0customs lately. I've been trying to be patient but it's wearing thin. Ordered / paid for ~$200 of items roughly a month ago and it arrived partially filled with a handwritten note that approx 1/3 of my order would ship "when they arrive back in stock". Hmmmm, It sure seemed to me that the site used to not let you order anything not in stock but it looks like they have removed all that and now you can order whatever is on the site and you just won't find out they didn't actually have it until you only get part of your order filled. Even after that full order didn't arrive, I saw a different item that had previously been listed as "sold out" was available for order so I placed another order with them, only to also have another partial order sent to me. At least in that instance the rest of that order was sent about a week later, but I'm still waiting on the rest of the order before it.
> 
> I traded emails with someone there (Jeremy/Josiah - an intern?) who said they would be sending the rest of my items later that week - that was almost ~3 weeks ago - and now for the past full week no one has replied to any of my emails. I've tried replying to the emails I had already received from Josiah the intern. I've tried contacting them through the site directly. And I've tried to the [email protected] address that keeps being linked in the emails I keep getting asking me to review various items I never even received.
> 
> All I want to know is some idea of when the rest of my order might get filled, but now I'm really not sure what's going on, but it's nothing like all my previous experiences with them. I would just be leery to order anything from Lutro0 right about now.


Sounds seriously sketchy... file a paypal dispute if you still can (can't remember the time limit for it, maybe 45 days?) and if you can switch to ordering from MDPC. It's incredible, but most of the orders I've made from MDPC arrived faster than the ones from Lutro... I've had orders from Lutro not ship for over a week, while orders from MDPC make it to my house from Germany in 8 to 10 days like clockwork.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Why are you clogging my thread with sleeving questions? Stay on topic please. If you wish to complain about Lutro0 then do it in his subforum,not here.

For the record,I use Lutro0 sleeve,it has a nicer melt than MDPC for shrinkless


----------



## failwheeldrive

I'd hardly call it clogging. Sure it's OT, but it was only a 2 or 3 posts from people trying to help the guy... not exactly going to derail the thread, right?

And I'm pretty sure you did the same in the second part of your post lol.


----------



## jason387

A few days back I purchased a used AMD Liquid Cooler. According to reviews its the same as the Asetek 570LC and the Antec Kuhler 920. This is my first time working with liquid. Before this I had a Hyper TX3 cooler. I'm from India and here parts for custom water cooling aren't available. This is the best I can get and I saw a used one being sold for Rs 3,000(50$) so I went ahead and bought it. I don't know if this qualifies as liquid cooling here after all the wonderful cooling blocks I just saw.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> A few days back I purchased a used AMD Liquid Cooler. According to reviews its the same as the Asetek 570LC and the Antec Kuhler 920. This is my first time working with liquid. Before this I had a Hyper TX3 cooler. I'm from India and here parts for custom water cooling aren't available. This is the best I can get and I saw a used one being sold for Rs 3,000(50$) so I went ahead and bought it. I don't know if this qualifies as liquid cooling here after all the wonderful cooling blocks I just saw.


Anything with H20 qualifies


----------



## jason387

Awesome!!. Does ambient temp affect liquid cooling?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Awesome!!. Does ambient temp affect liquid cooling?


Yes, yes it does. Water cooling works by getting the liquid in your loop to soak up the heat from whatever is being cooled, but as the fluids only way of getting rid of the heat is through fan cooled radiators. Then your water temp can never get below that of the ambient air you are using through the fans. That's why their are also sub ambient coolers to further reduce the temps. Usually running the water through a water chiller like you get in a water fountain. If you use a water chiller then you don't need any rads, as the rads will actually raise the temp of the water passing through it.

It is an immutable law of physics that says one medium cannot cool another below that of the cooling mediums ambient temp.


----------



## jason387

That explains why my liquid temp is at 40c. Here in India the temp throughout the day is around 35c-38c. So the cooler the liquid temp, the better????


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> That explains why my liquid temp is at 40c. Here in India the temp throughout the day is around 35c-38c. So the cooler the liquid temp, the better????


Yes,this is the basic mechanics of watercooling,the liquid acts as a heat transfer medium,the cooler the liquid,the better the heat _carrying_ capacity of the fluid.


----------



## jason387

On an average what liquid temp is said to be a good liquid temp?? Sorry for all the questions. I'm a noob when it comes to liquid cooling.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> That explains why my liquid temp is at 40c. Here in India the temp throughout the day is around 35c-38c. So the cooler the liquid temp, the better????


The cooler the air temp the better, remember the water is being cooled by the air. The water is only a carrier for the heat and if the air temp is high, your water temp will be higher.

As you say, water cooling bits are hard to get hold of in India. If you have air conditioning in your place, you might want to move your PC closer to the outlet. Unfortunately with ambient air temp at 35-38c keeping your PC cool is not going to be an easy job. No matter how many rads or fans you have.


----------



## jason387

That totally sucks. Thanks though. Guess I will have to wait for wnter as temps drop as low as 10c.
Is there any way of re-filling the coolant???


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> On an average what liquid temp is said to be a good liquid temp?? Sorry for all the questions. I'm a noob when it comes to liquid cooling.


Anything below your CPU's thermal cut out is good for me. I live in northern England so air temps aren't a big concern for most of the year. My rig at present is an overclocked 4770k with a R9 290x. Running a 4.8 GHz over clock on the CPU and a mild under clock on the GPU. My temps are usually 10-15c higher than ambient.

A milder over clock of 4.2GHz see's the temps at around 8-12c above ambient.

As far as I know the all in one coolers like yours are all sealed units.

I got a load of good benchmarking done over winter to help keep things a few degrees cooler. Now the temps are warming up. 14c in the UK basically means break out the shorts and sunnies, summer is here.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> That totally sucks. Thanks though. Guess I will have to wait for wnter as temps drop as low as 10c.
> Is there any way of re-filling the coolant???


Depends on how you build it









Most try to put in a drain line to really remove fluid and use reservoirs to fill.

Depending on fluid, you have to change it more or less often. Mayhem pastel can stay in your system for 1-2 years (sometimes more) without issue. Other fluids may last about 1yr and others closer to 6mo.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Depends on how you build it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most try to put in a drain line to really remove fluid and use reservoirs to fill.
> 
> Depending on fluid, you have to change it more or less often. Mayhem pastel can stay in your system for 1-2 years (sometimes more) without issue. Other fluids may last about 1yr and others closer to 6mo.


How do you"put in a drain line" into a CLC? The person posting question said he just picked up a CLC as custom water cooling where he is at is almost non-existent...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> How do you"put in a drain line" into a CLC? The person posting question said he just picked up a CLC as custom water cooling where he is at is almost non-existent...


Magic? Or some sizzors...kinda destructive tho

I skimmed over that it was clc, my bad. In that case, you don't drain or do anything with the fluid.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Magic? Or some sizzors...kinda destructive tho
> 
> I skimmed over that it was clc, my bad. In that case, you don't drain or do anything with the fluid.


I figured that was what happened, lol. I do that all the time.


----------



## jason387

Thanks guys for being so helpful. I know mine is an AIO. How long do they usually last?


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anything below your CPU's thermal cut out is good for me. I live in northern England so air temps aren't a big concern for most of the year. My rig at present is an overclocked 4770k with a R9 290x. Running a 4.8 GHz over clock on the CPU and a mild under clock on the GPU. My temps are usually 10-15c higher than ambient.
> 
> A milder over clock of 4.2GHz see's the temps at around 8-12c above ambient.
> 
> As far as I know the all in one coolers like yours are all sealed units.
> 
> 
> 
> I got a load of good benchmarking done over winter to help keep things a few degrees cooler. *Now the temps are warming up. 14c* in the UK basically means break out the shorts and sunnies, summer is here.


We just got 6" of snow (Sunday) and -5C weather here in Ottawa. Shorts come out as soon as it's a few degrees C above 0








At least it's warming up somewhere.. There is hope!

Edit: on topic, winter benching here when it's -40C, on air or water, is always fun! Just have to make sure no condensation forms and drips on anything!

Edit 2: just picked up 2 heatkiller 79X0 blocks for my 7970's!!


----------



## jason387

Damn you guys are lucky. The best temps in India during winter would be 10c.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Thanks guys for being so helpful. I know mine is an AIO. How long do they usually last?


Should last at least a couple of years I would think.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> We just got 6" of snow (Sunday) and -5C weather here in Ottawa. Shorts come out as soon as it's a few degrees C above 0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least it's warming up somewhere.. There is hope!
> 
> Edit: on topic, winter benching here when it's -40C, on air or water, is always fun! Just have to make sure no condensation forms and drips on anything!
> 
> Edit 2: just picked up 2 heatkiller 79X0 blocks for my 7970's!!


anyone know if I can use a 7970 on my r9 270x it the same silicon right?


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> anyone know if I can use a 7970 on my r9 270x it the same silicon right?


7970 is the same as a 2*8*0x, not 270x.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Should last at least a couple of years I would think.


That seem re-assuring. How expensive and difficult is it to set up a custom water loop? Does it perform better than an AIO?


----------



## aznpersuazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> That seem re-assuring. How expensive and difficult is it to set up a custom water loop? Does it perform better than an AIO?


If you are cooling the CPU only, I would just keep the AIO. A custom water loop can get expensive, but isn't too difficult to install.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Should last at least a couple of years I would think.
> 
> 
> 
> That seem re-assuring. How expensive and difficult is it to set up a custom water loop? Does it perform better than an AIO?
Click to expand...

Siginifcantly better performing and allows for GPU cooling.
The expense and difficulty are up to you.
The most viable kits are cheap but lack 'boutique' parts,however,these can be replaced down the line.
If you stay traditional with compressions and normal tube then the difficulty is low,basically if you can screw a nut on to a bolt then that's all the real skill you need.

There are other things you can get creative with but difficulty goes up accordingly.


----------



## jason387

I'm just looking to cool the cpu. The thing is ambient temps are high here and that it looks like my liquid cooler too depends upon ambient temps. Is there any solution to overcoming this?


----------



## jason387

Guys I just found a site which sells cpu cooling parts in India. Can anyone tell me what all I need from here? http://www.sctindia.co.in/aluminium-radiator.htm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Aluminium? Don't bother unless you can source an Alu block and fittings too.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aluminium? Don't bother unless you can source an Alu block and fittings too.


Does that site have everything I need for a good custom loop?


----------



## derickwm

No.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now there aren't sites like aqua tuning,ppc, FCPU that ship into India? If so then try to look into copper/brass based components to keep you total price down. Also try to look into second hand parts that can cut costs down tremendously. Never be worried to ask, this site and this thread alone helped me piece my build together and still I learn new info through it.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Updated the placement of the second pump. It is not attached to the EK 280 on top. I am waiting for an Ek Res X3 to arrive, as the mounting system that comes with it will allow my to move the reservoir over approximately 2 inches, and I will be moving the pump to a lower position under the res. I will never purchase another Koolance product, as this res that I currently has leaks if I have to do any maintenance. The tops is the only issue and has gone back for RMA once.

Thoughts on how to improve it a little more?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No.


^This

What a funny site







you can literally count all their products on two hands..
low end blocks, bad pumps, aluminum radiators? and pepper spray???








I dont even see fittings / tubes / reservoirs.

I suspect the pepper spray is mend to be used on youself if you buy from this site.


----------



## welshy46

Not with copper blocks and aluminium rads, like B said above. unless you can get them to make the block in aluminium or the rad in copper/brass. Mixing the copper block with an aluminium rad is asking for trouble. As for the price of the kit r7500 isn't a bad price, that's £75 for a water cooling kit.

You could get the pump and block, then find a copper/brass radiator from another supplier. You might need to import it,I don't know what you would pay in import tax, but with a 200% import tax on new cars. It might be cheaper to modify the 120mm rad you already have to use in the loop.


----------



## Angrychair

oh man that website is hilariously painful.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*


are you actually running that ddc upside down? if your main ddc dies so will that ddc. i would say you shouldnt be running it upside down as everyone else says BUT, your main should keep it full of coolant. that still doesnt mean you should be running it like that. if your main is a 35x, you dont even really need that 2nd pump. nice as a backup but wont do anything but die if its needed.


----------



## jason387

Lol. That's the only site that sells Liquid cooling parts in India. Its lack of choice in terms of variety made it seem like it was easy







Everything i India is either not available or at an extremely high price.


----------



## derickwm

AFAIK we ship to India from our webshop.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Anyone have any idea where I could get a piece of aluminum to cover where the drive bays used to be. It is 150mm wide and about 400mm tall.


If you live in the U.S. try Lowes or Home Depot or whatever hardware store you may live near.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Updated the placement of the second pump. It is not attached to the EK 280 on top. I am waiting for an Ek Res X3 to arrive, as the mounting system that comes with it will allow my to move the reservoir over approximately 2 inches, and I will be moving the pump to a lower position under the res. I will never purchase another Koolance product, as this res that I currently has leaks if I have to do any maintenance. The tops is the only issue and has gone back for RMA once.
> 
> Thoughts on how to improve it a little more?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you are still planning on using your fill port as an inlet on the x3 res you are going to run into some issues, unless you are keeping the thing full 24/7. You either need to buy the multiport top with the special downtube from EK or you can make it work with a threaded acrylic tube a male to male fitting and doubling up on o-rings. If you want to know how to do the latter send me a PM







.


----------



## charliebrown

ok i have a question im new to watercooling been doing my research im using acrylic not regulare tubing. I just want to know how to add a drainport so that i can clean it later on


----------



## Jeronbernal

some of the builds ive seen in this thread are the most beautiful builds i've ever seen

here's a few of mine

Case : Corsair Obsidian 350D
Mobo : Asus MVIGene
CPU : 4770k
RAM : 4 x 8gb Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133mhz
GPU : 2x EVGA SC GTX 780 TI
PSU : AX860

Blocks : EK Supremacy Nickel CSQ / 2x EK FC GTX 780 TI Acetal
Fittings, Terminal, Adapters Etc. : Bitspower 30, 45, 90 and 0 degree Rotary Compression 3/8ID-5/8OD, among others, EK FC Terminal, 3/4 BitsP fill port and drain port through hull
Pump/Res : EK D5 X-Res 150 Top


----------



## 15goudreau

*Double post*


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> ok i have a question im new to watercooling been doing my research im using acrylic not regulare tubing. I just want to know how to add a drainport so that i can clean it later on


Add a T Fitting at the lowest part of you loop and attach a ball valve to it. Should be good to go after that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Edit your last post,dont create a new one and double post please.


----------



## 15goudreau

I was trying to edit it and ended up posting a new one by accident. I didn't mean to double post, obviously.


----------



## sebkow

Anyone else stocking up on AP 15's? I might be getting 50 for a future build

EDIT: or does sound like a bad idea as something new might outpace them?


----------



## pc-illiterate

there is no reason to stock up. nidec servo will still produce and either they will market them or someone else will pick up a reseller contract.


----------



## 15goudreau

There is no official answer right now as to what is happening with nidec. However I don't know where you are going to find 50 AP 15s.







.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Does that site have everything I need for a good custom loop?


Mate try and find a forwarding company in India. Get your parts from FCPU, and have them shipped to you. I'm not exactly sure if FCPU will ship right to where you are, but it'd be worth a shot. Best of luck!

-Zepp


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Mate try and find a forwarding company in India. Get your parts from FCPU, and have them shipped to you. I'm not exactly sure if FCPU will ship right to where you are, but it'd be worth a shot. Best of luck!
> 
> -Zepp


----------



## jason387

Is this any good? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21235/ex-wat-270/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> There is no official answer right now as to what is happening with nidec. However I don't know where you are going to find 50 AP 15s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


actually nidec themselves said they have no plan to discontinue the manufacturing of the gentle typhoon fans. its in the "no more gentle typhoon fans" thread.


----------



## jason387

Could these be used together? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6571/ex-rad-126/Swiftech_MCR220_Quiet_Power_2_x_120mm_Radiator_w_Reservoir_MCR220-QP_Res_R2.html?tl=g30c97s709
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14977/ex-pmp-178/Alphacool_DC-LT_Ceramic_12V_DC_Pump_w_RPM_-_Bulk_Version.html?tl=g30c107s153


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Could these be used together? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6571/ex-rad-126/Swiftech_MCR220_Quiet_Power_2_x_120mm_Radiator_w_Reservoir_MCR220-QP_Res_R2.html?tl=g30c97s709
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14977/ex-pmp-178/Alphacool_DC-LT_Ceramic_12V_DC_Pump_w_RPM_-_Bulk_Version.html?tl=g30c107s153


They can but that pump is a hateful piece of junk. You also need a block,top for the pump,fittings and tube and a reservoir.

You need to start a thread and link it here for members to see and comment on there,this gives you the help you need directly and keeps this thread clear.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Could these be used together? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6571/ex-rad-126/Swiftech_MCR220_Quiet_Power_2_x_120mm_Radiator_w_Reservoir_MCR220-QP_Res_R2.html?tl=g30c97s709
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14977/ex-pmp-178/Alphacool_DC-LT_Ceramic_12V_DC_Pump_w_RPM_-_Bulk_Version.html?tl=g30c107s153


they can but those pumps are outright crap.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They can but that pump is a hateful piece of junk. You also need a block,top for the pump,fittings and tube and a reservoir.
> 
> You need to start a thread and link it here for members to see and comment on there,this gives you the help you need directly and keeps this thread clear.


Will I get anything within 150$? Can you help? Please?
70$ for shipping to my location


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> there is no reason to stock up. nidec servo will still produce and either they will market them or someone else will pick up a reseller contract.


some day... hopefully...but zero info on when, where, or who.


----------



## tecuarenta

Are push/push or pull/pull double fan configs any good?
Just saw a rig with two fans at the same side of the radiator







...


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Are push/push or pull/pull double fan configs any good?
> Just saw a rig with two fans at the same side of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


only 2? this is what a real multiple fan on same side should look like


----------



## skupples

^ was waiting for some one to link that.

-20C baby. And whisper quiet.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Are push/push or pull/pull double fan configs any good?
> Just saw a rig with two fans at the same side of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


not for your ears...


----------



## skupples




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Are push/push or pull/pull double fan configs any good?
> Just saw a rig with two fans at the same side of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It is a sure fire way of doubling the static pressure,very common in the dark days of stock coolers and no real aftermarket.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Are push/push or pull/pull double fan configs any good?
> Just saw a rig with two fans at the same side of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Are you sure it was two functioning fans? Or did they use a fan frame as a radiator shroud/spacer??


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Are you sure it was two functioning fans? Or did they use a fan frame as a radiator shroud/spacer??


Maybe you are right...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> If you are still planning on using your fill port as an inlet on the x3 res you are going to run into some issues, unless you are keeping the thing full 24/7. You either need to buy the multiport top with the special downtube from EK or you can make it work with a threaded acrylic tube a male to male fitting and doubling up on o-rings. If you want to know how to do the latter send me a PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ordered the multiport top as well as downtubes and a alpha cool bubble down adapter piece.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Are push/push or pull/pull double fan configs any good?
> Just saw a rig with two fans at the same side of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> It is a sure fire way of doubling the static pressure,very common in the dark days of stock coolers and no real aftermarket.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, Martin did some pull-pull and push-push testing on a rad and wrote:
Quote:


> None of the experimental pull/pull or push/push configurations provided any noteworthy benefit as it seams the air is simply too disturbed from the first fan to allow the second to perform properly when air is moving.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> oh man that website is hilariously painful.


This is the WC store here: http://www.gamertek.cl


----------



## Lefik

Speaking of push pull, is it a viable option for someone who wants almost dead silence?
Obviously using sub 800 RPM fans, probably a thin radiator.

Would it be better to have a thin radiator with push/pull or thicker one with one set of fans?


----------



## kpoeticg

Push pull with decent fans will always be quieter because you can run them at lower rpm's and still get good static pressure

Push pull on a thinner rad also provides better cooling than push on a thicker rad. Obviously push/pull on a thick rad is best.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> If you live in the U.S. try Lowes or Home Depot or whatever hardware store you may live near.


Unfortunately I do not live in the US right now. Possibly next year this time, but I am in South Korea for at least 10 more months.


----------



## iamkraine

Anyone here try the asus 780 poseiden?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> are you actually running that ddc upside down? if your main ddc dies so will that ddc. i would say you shouldnt be running it upside down as everyone else says BUT, your main should keep it full of coolant. that still doesnt mean you should be running it like that. if your main is a 35x, you dont even really need that 2nd pump. nice as a backup but wont do anything but die if its needed.


The only purpose of the second pump was for assisting the main. I ran into the issue that the first purchase. P going through 4 radiators and the gpus/cpu , that it always had micro bubbles and I couldn't get the system to completely clear. Now my Temps are down. Could I run them in series and get good pressure? I could order another EK res X3 and make a bracket at the front of the case and run dual Res.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Are push/push or pull/pull double fan configs any good?
> Just saw a rig with two fans at the same side of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> It is a sure fire way of doubling the static pressure,very common in the dark days of stock coolers and no real aftermarket.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmmm, Martin did some pull-pull and push-push testing on a rad and wrote:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> None of the experimental pull/pull or push/push configurations provided any noteworthy benefit as it seams the air is simply too disturbed from the first fan to allow the second to perform properly when air is moving.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

People do take Martins word as gospel but in this instance,he is incorrect. Google stacked fans,there are many examples of this working. Stacked will double static pressure,side by side feeding the same rad doubles airflow. All Martin proved is static pressure is not the be all-end all that people seem to think it is. In an application where pressure is the focus,it works very well.


----------



## jason387

Out of all of these which one is the best?
http://mdcomputers.in/products/cpu-cooler/cooler-master-liquid-cooler-nepton-280l.html
http://mdcomputers.in/products/cpu-cooler/cooler-master-liquid-cooler-seidon-240-m.html
http://mdcomputers.in/products/cpu-cooler/corsair-cpu-cooler-h110.html?sort=p.price&order=DESC
http://mdcomputers.in/products/cpu-cooler/corsair-cpu-cooler-h100i.html?sort=p.price&order=DESC

By how much will the best among these lower temps over what I have now?


----------



## 15goudreau

You will probably notice very small differences between those coolers. However if you want a warranty that you know will be honored for whatever might happen, I would choose the corsair product over the coolermaster.


----------



## Pendaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Is this any good? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21235/ex-wat-270/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30


I just bought this, it's sat at home waiting for me (I work 100 miles away from home lol) I'll install it over weekend hopefully report here and let you know what it's like


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You will probably notice very small differences between those coolers. However if you want a warranty that you know will be honored for whatever might happen, I would choose the corsair product over the coolermaster.


But will those be a major upgrade over my present cooler???


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> I just bought this, it's sat at home waiting for me (I work 100 miles away from home lol) I'll install it over weekend hopefully report here and let you know what it's like


Awesome. Wonder if it will be better than the high end AIO closed water loops.


----------



## Pendaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Awesome. Wonder if it will be better than the high end AIO closed water loops.


hmm

Its more of an educational kit for me as an introduction to water cooling, with the eventual plan of including my gpu and various parts of the mobo into it too


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You will probably notice very small differences between those coolers. However if you want a warranty that you know will be honored for whatever might happen, I would choose the corsair product over the coolermaster.


/\ This /\

I used to have an Antec Kuhler H20 920 and then replaced it by a Corsair H100 but there was virtually no difference in performance. The only advantage to the H100 was that it had a nice 30mm thick 240 rad whereas the H20 920 had a galumphing great 50mm thick rad which with fans either side made it 100mm thick. On the plus side the H20 920 had nice software.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> /\ This /\
> 
> I used to have an Antec Kuhler H20 920 and then replaced it by a Corsair H100 but there was virtually no difference in performance. The only advantage to the H100 was that it had a nice 30mm thick 240 rad whereas the H20 920 had a galumphing great 50mm thick rad which with fans either side made it 100mm thick. On the plus side the H20 920 had nice software.


Oh. So looks like I'm at the top with AIO loops


----------



## 15goudreau

Yeah you would need to expand to a 360 radiator to really notice and difference in performance.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Yeah you would need to expand to a 360 radiator to really notice and difference in performance.


Thanks. Looks like what I need s a new mobo.


----------



## Desolator2B

I finally got my loop squared away, still got some bubbles, hoping they'll work themselves out of the loop.
I need to get some high res porn shots with the DSLR, just kinda been a bit busy lol.


----------



## 15goudreau

Sweet rig


----------



## Desolator2B

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Sweet rig


Thanks man!


----------



## 15goudreau

Definitely get that thing in some good lighting and take lots of pics!!! make one your work computer desktop so you can







there too.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Awesome. Wonder if it will be better than the high end AIO closed water loops.


Waaaayyy better. Higher overclocks at lower temps all while being much more quiet. Check my system if you want to see it running my CPU and gpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> hmm
> 
> Its more of an educational kit for me as an introduction to water cooling, with the eventual plan of including my gpu and various parts of the mobo into it too


I bought mine for the exact same reason. That and microcenter was selling it for $149 it was too cheap to pass up. Already had to warranty the original pump unit though. After a few weeks it started vibrating really bad. At some point I will switch to a d5 pump but like I said, $149 was too cheap to pass up.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Waaaayyy better. Higher overclocks at lower temps all while being much more quiet. Check my system if you want to see it running my CPU and gpu.
> I bought mine for the exact same reason. That and microcenter was selling it for $149 it was too cheap to pass up. Already had to warranty the original pump unit though. After a few weeks it started vibrating really bad. At some point I will switch to a d5 pump but like I said, $149 was too cheap to pass up.


Guess its worth it. Its going to cost me an extra 70$ to ship it to where I stay.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Guess its worth it. Its going to cost me an extra 70$ to ship it to where I stay.


If it's going to cost you that much it might be more cost effective to get the d5 pump the first time. You will want it eventually and you will save yourself another astronomical shipping charge.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> If it's going to cost you that much it might be more cost effective to get the d5 pump the first time. You will want it eventually and you will save yourself another astronomical shipping charge.


True. I think the sipping charge is the same no matter how many items you purchase, so a buddy of mine living close by also decided to get the the same stuff. So we share the shipping cost. Can you put together a cost effective custom kit for me with all that I need please? Can only buy from frozen cpu site as they deliver to India.


----------



## d00bzilla

Well if you like that kit they make it with the upgraded d5 pump. No need to go custom if you don't want too.

www.frozencpu.com/products/16070/ex-wat-210/XSPC_Raystorm_EX240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water.html

I would also recommend getting some compression fittings to go with the kit. No sense in spending all this money on the kit and have plastic clamps holding it all together. Worth an extra $30 IMO.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Well if you like that kit they make it with the upgraded d5 pump. No need to go custom if you don't want too.
> 
> www.frozencpu.com/products/16070/ex-wat-210/XSPC_Raystorm_EX240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water.html


100$ more just for a change in pump?


----------



## Lutro0

Because I dont want to bring this thread off topic I will only post once on here and ask that everyone else please send me PMs regarding their orders.

We have been having issues with the shipper that was hired and he has been let go because of how bad it got, for the slow service and lack of communication we apologize. We have been updating everyone on facebook and as emails come in.

You guys are more then welcome to call @ 6056914200 or email me personally @ [email protected]

If you have had a slow order in the past please get ahold of me so we can pass on a coupon to make it right.

If you still have an order out please contact me so I can expedite your order personally and give a partial refund.

We normally have a turn around of 2-3 days before shipping but due to the poor work by our shipper it has been much more and sadly I didnt catch it untill it was a big problem.

In either case we take care of our customers when there is a mistake. So please get in contact with me so we can make it right.

We have very much been growing in leaps and bounds lately which is in thanks to support from you guys! We are on the search for a new shipper but in the mean time we will be devoting a huge part of our day to make sure orders go out fast.

Thanks for reading this!


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> 100$ more just for a change in pump?


If you want to compare here are some reviews by martin. I had the same decision and went the D5, well worth it simply because I eventually added more and more to the loop.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/06/xspc-d5-dual-bay-reservoir-combo/
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/20/xspc-x2o-750-dual-bay-nylon-reservoir-pump/


----------



## d00bzilla

It's a much more reliable and higher quality pump. like I said I already had to warranty my pump that came with the cheaper kit. I imagine having to warranty things for you would be even more difficult.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> If you want to compare here are some reviews by martin. I had the same decision and went the D5, well worth it simply because I eventually added more and more to the loop.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/06/xspc-d5-dual-bay-reservoir-combo/
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/20/xspc-x2o-750-dual-bay-nylon-reservoir-pump/


Sounds way better actually. Thanks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Good bit of info as I'm debating on upgrading to a pwn pump from my current Swiftech MCP355 (good pump for the $40 I paid used for it).


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Sounds way better actually. Thanks.


You are using the CM 335 Elite, correct? I'd change out to something like a Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 or another good water cooling compatible MATX case. Minimum I would say for good performance would be something like a 30mm thick 240mm radiator, but of course with your higher ambient temperatures you'd have to factor that into your scenario as well. Having so many separate radiators in a case like yours would make a messy loop/ one that's hard to keep clean.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Good bit of info as I'm debating on upgrading to a pwn pump from my current Swiftech MCP355 (good pump for the $40 I paid used for it).


Skip the smaller pump I'd say and go for a Vario or PWM D5 pump. It's more than worth it









-Zepp


----------



## jason387

I was thinking about getting this cabinet- http://mdcomputers.in/products/cabinet/nzxt-cabinet-gamma.html?sort=p.price&order=ASC
Its affordable and had quite a lot of space.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Well if you like that kit they make it with the upgraded d5 pump. No need to go custom if you don't want too.
> 
> www.frozencpu.com/products/16070/ex-wat-210/XSPC_Raystorm_EX240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water.html
> 
> I would also recommend getting some compression fittings to go with the kit. No sense in spending all this money on the kit and have plastic clamps holding it all together. Worth an extra $30 IMO.


that kit comes with compression fittings. a good idea would be buying primochill advanced lrt tubing though. just make sure to get the right size which would be 7/16 x 5/8


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> You are using the CM 335 Elite, correct? I'd change out to something like a Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 or another good water cooling compatible MATX case. Minimum I would say for good performance would be something like a 30mm thick 240mm radiator, but of course with your higher ambient temperatures you'd have to factor that into your scenario as well. Having so many separate radiators in a case like yours would make a messy loop/ one that's hard to keep clean.
> Skip the smaller pump I'd say and go for a Vario or PWM D5 pump. It's more than worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


I've been seeing that a lot in here, I went with the ddc back in oct/nova just so I could get my loop up and running, so all I'm doing now is swapping out for upgrades as I go along. Also I plan to add a black ice xtreme 240 to my loop since I'm closing in on getting a newer gpu to put under water as I waited too long to get e block for my 7870.


----------



## kpoeticg

Not sure if anybody mentioned it yet, but PPC started carrying Monsoon's Economy Hardline Compressions today


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolator2B*
> 
> I finally got my loop squared away, still got some bubbles, hoping they'll work themselves out of the loop.
> I need to get some high res porn shots with the DSLR, just kinda been a bit busy lol.


Nice









I like the colors! just run a comb through the 24 pin








Cant wait for pron pics with better cam!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guy just wanted to know if this fan controller is any good,also does it really control pwm fans as stated....?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't see PWM anywhere on there


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't see PWM anywhere on there


Under connections.

Hard to say Jamaican. Any good reviews on it?

I did a little digging and it seems legit. I would buy one


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Under connections.
> 
> Hard to say Jamaican. Any good reviews on it?


So far i have only seen a write up of a press release about it on http://www.techpowerup.com/199482/nzxt-unveils-the-sentry-3-touchscreen-fan-controller.html .....Still looking to find a review online though....

Also came across this,i really like the link control,just wanted to know if it really works with pwm fans,looking to get some for my rads....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

It may say it has "5x PWM male fan connections" but for the 'Fan control method' it says "voltage". Also by looking at the channel and total wattage specs, it looks to me like it's not a PWM fan controller, but they have simply made it so that you can voltage control either 3 pin or 4 pin fans, and I'm not sure that all PWM fans like to play so nice with being voltage controlled.

EDIT:
FWIW Zalman makes a couple PWM fan controllers, but I've not heard much about them.

Zalman ZM-MFC1 Combo
Zalman ZM-MFC3

The only PWM fan controllers that I have heard good things about have been Aquaeros.


----------



## kpoeticg

I see it now. Some controllers advertise 4pin pwm connections just meaning you can plug the fans in.

It's possible if it's a new controller, i'd be suprised tho


----------



## Kimir

Right, from the back on the pcb you can see only 3 pin fan connector, so sure you can plug pwm fan on these, but they will be controlled by voltage.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So far i have only seen a write up of a press release about it on http://www.techpowerup.com/199482/nzxt-unveils-the-sentry-3-touchscreen-fan-controller.html .....Still looking to find a review online though....
> 
> Also came across this,i really like the link control,just wanted to know if it really works with pwm fans,looking to get some for my rads....


I have the version 2 and only used it for a week,it created a really loud buzzing noise with my fans. yanked it out and its been sitting in the box since.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Right, from the back on the pcb you can see only 3 pin fan connector, so sure you can plug pwm fan on these, but they will be controlled by voltage.


That's a sad day. I don't know why they say PWM fans when it is voltage controlled and everyone knows PWM + voltage control usually ends in no good.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Thanks guys,i will probably still grab it at a later date,if it's in fact not pwm then i will just stick to my corsair non pwm fans....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> That's a sad day. I don't know why they say PWM fans when it is voltage controlled and everyone knows PWM + voltage control usually ends in no good.


Some of them are kinda strange. Example being Sunbeam 30W Rheosmart, it has a PWM header, but it doesn't actually connect to one of the knobs. It allows for some sort of motherboard interfacing via CPU_header.


Spoiler: Warning: comes with this!


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, it lets you Voltage Control fans off the mobo's PWM

PWM input

3Pin outputs


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## aznpersuazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the colors! just run a comb through the 24 pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant wait for pron pics with better cam!


Lol a comb


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


What fittings are these


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, it lets you Voltage Control fans off the mobo's PWM
> 
> PWM input
> 3Pin outputs


Sounds like the same thing the Phanteks hub does. It has mobo PWM and molex PSU inputs and uses the mobo's PWM signal to voltage control 3-pin fans. The hub comes with the Enthoo Primo case but according to the rep on their forum was supposed to be made available sold separately by now. I'm not seeing it anywhere just yet though. Instead of just the bare PCB like comes in the case they have added a cover to it and it looks to me like instead of a 4-pin molex it has a SATA input from the PSU. Here's a picture the Phanteks forum mod posted:


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the colors! just run a comb through the 24 pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant wait for pron pics with better cam!
> 
> 
> 
> Lol a comb
Click to expand...

I believe he's talking about one of these:



Or perhaps one of these:


----------



## charliebrown

Lol I know but I been at work for 12hours it was funny because I was thinking it look like hair smh


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe he's talking about one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> Or perhaps one of these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You could always sew/stitch your cables too


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Worst case scenario i run these http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23071 on this http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27219 if it infact cant really control pwm fans....?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Just a heads up for everyone here, Cougar Vortex PWM 120mm fans are on sale @ Newegg for $8.99 a peice.


----------



## derickwm

Alright... time to finish the Classy build.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alright... time to finish the Classy build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good god, awesome! I love the Matrix packaging. I use to have 3 Matrix 580's, still the best GPU packaging I've ever encountered.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Out of all of these which one is the best?
> http://mdcomputers.in/products/cpu-cooler/cooler-master-liquid-cooler-nepton-280l.html
> http://mdcomputers.in/products/cpu-cooler/cooler-master-liquid-cooler-seidon-240-m.html
> http://mdcomputers.in/products/cpu-cooler/corsair-cpu-cooler-h110.html?sort=p.price&order=DESC
> http://mdcomputers.in/products/cpu-cooler/corsair-cpu-cooler-h100i.html?sort=p.price&order=DESC
> 
> By how much will the best among these lower temps over what I have now?


I mean, dude, just start a thread and link it here. People will help you no doubt. This thread is the watercooling gallery. A lot of people ask a basic one line question from time to time and that's cool, I've done it myself. But this is supposed to be the gallery, not the "zomg plz helps my loop" thread. It's been a good two or three days of non-stop questions. Curiosity is a good thing, and I understand wanting to be certain before investing a lot of money on a purchase, but that's not the intention of this thread. A little courtesy would be much appreciated. Please and thanks.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alright... time to finish the Classy build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good god, awesome! I love the Matrix packaging. I use to have 3 Matrix 580's, still the best GPU packaging I've ever encountered.
Click to expand...

This. It's nice to have full cover blocks for them too. I'm actually leaning towards keeping these GPUs for quite a while. Things always change though


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Worst case scenario i run these http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23071 on this http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27219 if it infact cant really control pwm fans....?


you ruin the fans and they die a quicker than normal death after they start clicking and making god awful noises.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> If you want to compare here are some reviews by martin. I had the same decision and went the D5, well worth it simply because I eventually added more and more to the loop.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/06/xspc-d5-dual-bay-reservoir-combo/
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/20/xspc-x2o-750-dual-bay-nylon-reservoir-pump/


my X20-750 that came with the XSPC kit can't move my loop by itself after adding more item. R4BE chipset+power mosfet XSPC waterblock, 2xgtx780ti WB, 360 top rad and 2x120 bottom rad. Adding an EK DDC pump resumed the flow nicely. Next rebuild would probably be a dual D5 dual bay reservoir instead.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Well if you like that kit they make it with the upgraded d5 pump. No need to go custom if you don't want too.
> 
> www.frozencpu.com/products/16070/ex-wat-210/XSPC_Raystorm_EX240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water.html
> 
> I would also recommend getting some compression fittings to go with the kit. No sense in spending all this money on the kit and have plastic clamps holding it all together. Worth an extra $30 IMO.


the kits comes with compression fittings from the picture. If you'll ever want to put more than the CPU on it try a 360 or 420 rad, which ever can fit in the case.
Starting over I would get this kit instead of the x20 750 AX320 I have. I spent a lot more than the price difference to make the smaller kit useful.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16550/ex-wat-218/XSPC_Raystorm_EX420_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g59c683s2181#blank


----------



## skupples

Those new low profile bitspower acrylic fittings.


----------



## Anoxy

Those are new? I feel like they've been out for a while now


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Those are new? I feel like they've been out for a while now


I guess newest revision would be a better statement. They are the newest acrylic fitting Bitspower has brought to market.


----------



## Jakusonfire

New C47's ?


----------



## kpoeticg

The newest BP acrylic fittings are the Enhanced Multi-Links. The Compressions that are bigger than C47's. They also released angles with the Multi-Link's on both ends. Then finally they started releasing the F/F angles without the Multi-Links.

I think you might've been seeing the F/F 90 with 2 C47's screwed into it. I have a bunch on my worktable right now too


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The newest BP acrylic fittings are the Enhanced Multi-Links. The Compressions that are bigger than C47's. They also released angles with the Multi-Link's on both ends. Then finally they started releasing the F/F angles without the Multi-Links.
> 
> I think you might've been seeing the F/F 90 with 2 C47's screwed into it. I have a bunch on my worktable right now too


Correct. I use C47's. I don't like the new fittings, they hang over the edge whereas the C47's run flush with other fittings.


----------



## kpoeticg

I know this, since you're the one that convinced me to do the same









I only caught the very end of the conversation, didn't know what pics or build skups was talking about


----------



## Desolator2B

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the colors! just run a comb through the 24 pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant wait for pron pics with better cam!


Haha, thanks







it's been a WIP for quite some time, and it's come a long way, can't do a whole lot as a senior in high school with a minimum wage job ;p
I plan on covering the PSU and building a custom harddrive cage so I can hide the wires and the HDD, I'll be sure to comb the 24 pin and the PCI-e cables


----------



## Neo Zuko

I didn't realize Bitspower had hardline compression fittings. I may build with them in black sparkle.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolator2B*
> 
> Haha, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's been a WIP for quite some time, and it's come a long way, can't do a whole lot as a senior in high school with a minimum wage job ;p
> I plan on covering the PSU and building a custom harddrive cage so I can hide the wires and the HDD, I'll be sure to comb the 24 pin and the PCI-e cables


You don't _need_ to comb them. You can always spend hours pushing them in the right direction.







. That's what I do but I'm cheap.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I didn't realize Bitspower had hardline compression fittings. I may build with them in black sparkle.


Since when? Links?


----------



## Desolator2B

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You don't _need_ to comb them. You can always spend hours pushing them in the right direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That's what I do but I'm cheap.


Good point, but LutroO does have some cheap combs for a buck, and I could get a 24 pin, 6 pin and 8 pin for 10 bucks, and that's with shipping, and it'd save those hours of tedious mending lolol


----------



## 15goudreau

hahah true enough. I might pick some up too, so I guess that would make me a hypocrite.


----------



## PinzaC55

I just added Koolance QD3's to my GPU's since I have been removing them a few times lately. As I expected they have restricted flow a bit so on Valley Extreme HD maximum temps have increased by about 5 degrees.


----------



## 15goudreau

Seems like a lot of temp increase for that amount of restriction... Do you have a flow controller to see if something else is up?


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Seems like a lot of temp increase for that amount of restriction... Do you have a flow controller to see if something else is up?


Sadly I have no flow meter (that's the next job I think) but then again I haven't measured it in any scientific way.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Seems like a lot of temp increase for that amount of restriction... Do you have a flow controller to see if something else is up?


I'm thinking that if these were just recently installed that there is likely still some air in the loop or bubbles in the cards that are creating the temp difference.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm thinking that if these were just recently installed that there is likely still some air in the loop or bubbles in the cards that are creating the temp difference.


I think you are right


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I just added Koolance QD3's to my GPU's since I have been removing them a few times lately. As I expected they have restricted flow a bit so on Valley Extreme HD maximum temps have increased by about 5 degrees.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Temp increase is to be expected,5c is a bit steep tho. Seeing as your cards are serial,its unlikely to be a bleeding issue....Are both cards reading the same 5c increase or is this 5c on the CPU?


----------



## 15goudreau

Yeah, I think bram is right. Crank your pump if you can and give it some time


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Temp increase is to be expected,5c is a bit steep tho. Seeing as your cards are serial,its unlikely to be a bleeding issue....Are both cards reading the same 5c increase or is this 5c on the CPU?


No it is on the B GPU of Card 1 (the top one) with the other GPU's registering a smaller increase. Assuming Bram is right I am going to pop out for a couple of pints of Staropramen Coolant and leave her running then try again when I stagger back


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Temp increase is to be expected,5c is a bit steep tho. Seeing as your cards are serial,its unlikely to be a bleeding issue....Are both cards reading the same 5c increase or is this 5c on the CPU?
> 
> 
> 
> No it is on the B GPU of Card 1 (the top one) with the other GPU's registering a smaller increase. Assuming Bram is right I am going to pop out for a couple of pints of Staropramen Coolant and leave her running then try again when I stagger back
Click to expand...

Primary are normally slightly warmer than subsequent cards,I did see there is a Jingway lurking in the bottom tho,not the strongest of pumps. That said,the restriction is slight from the QDC's...

Leaving it running is sound advice,does it make the gurgle?


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> No it is on the B GPU of Card 1 (the top one) with the other GPU's registering a smaller increase. Assuming Bram is right I am going to pop out for a couple of pints of Staropramen Coolant and leave her running then try again when I stagger back


A significant change in GPU temps of one card should point to something related to that card itself. While some EK GPU blocks have been quite sensitive to flow, 5C would be the difference of dropping from ~1.5GPM down to 0.4GPM. That shouldn't be the case with two QDC pairs.


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

PC UPGRADES PROJECT "RED RIVER" FEATURING EK WATERBLOCKS, MAYHEMS, CORSAIR PRODUCTS COMPLETE!!


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> This. It's nice to have full cover blocks for them too. I'm actually leaning towards keeping these GPUs for quite a while. Things always change though


I'm primarily a competitive gamer, and I've just been using a single one of these for the past year. I'm able to push just about anything at 120fps for my 120Hz panel. Plus that block, soooooooo good.




Also, I see your 4 cards, and raise you an adorable dog.



Not going with the 7970 Lightnings though?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Primary are normally slightly warmer than subsequent cards,I did see there is a Jingway lurking in the bottom tho,not the strongest of pumps. That said,the restriction is slight from the QDC's...
> 
> Leaving it running is sound advice,does it make the gurgle?


Not to mention, that seems like the smaller Jingway (Like the EK DCP 2.0)? I remember having the DCP 4.0, and moving to the D5 made a difference in temperatures (3x180mm rad, CPU, and 2x GPU's), can't imagine a DCP 2.0 powering all that.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> PC UPGRADES PROJECT "RED RIVER" FEATURING EK WATERBLOCKS, MAYHEMS, CORSAIR PRODUCTS COMPLETE!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why is your pump leaning towards the side?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Primary are normally slightly warmer than subsequent cards,I did see there is a Jingway lurking in the bottom tho,not the strongest of pumps. That said,the restriction is slight from the QDC's...
> 
> Leaving it running is sound advice,does it make the gurgle?
> 
> 
> 
> Not to mention, that seems like the smaller Jingway (Like the EK DCP 2.0)? I remember having the DCP 4.0, and moving to the D5 made a difference in temperatures (3x180mm rad, CPU, and 2x GPU's), can't imagine a DCP 2.0 powering all that.
Click to expand...

Im inclined to agree. I can tell more from the noise a loop makes as to its 'health',you can hear air very easily.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> This. It's nice to have full cover blocks for them too. I'm actually leaning towards keeping these GPUs for quite a while. Things always change though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm primarily a competitive gamer, and I've just been using a single one of these for the past year. I'm able to push just about anything at 120fps for my 120Hz panel. Plus that block, soooooooo good.
> 
> Not going with the 7970 Lightnings though?
Click to expand...

I still have them sitting here but I haven't really decided what to do with them. It came down to not really wanting to mix csq with clean csq. Probably end up selling.


----------



## stickg1

Good idea, lets post all our pics in duplicate, that's not annoying at all.

Nice build! But some of us are on mobile trying to fluff off at work!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Good idea, lets post all our pics in duplicate, that's not annoying at all.
> 
> Nice build! But some of us are on mobile *trying to fluff off* at work!


When did you become a "fluffer"??


----------



## stickg1

Lol, ever since it starting getting hot outside. Plus I got that new truck so I keep "forgetting" things and having to run down to the shop.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Primary are normally slightly warmer than subsequent cards,I did see there is a Jingway lurking in the bottom tho,not the strongest of pumps. That said,the restriction is slight from the QDC's...
> 
> Leaving it running is sound advice,does it make the gurgle?


The pump is a Phobya 220 although I assume you mean Jingway is the OEM? No gurgling whatsoever though having returned from the pub the res is down by one inch. I got the Phobya 220 when I first built the loop for CPU only but it has coped manfully over 1.4 years.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> The pump is a Phobya 220 although I assume you mean Jingway is the OEM? No gurgling whatsoever though having returned from the pub the res is down by one inch. I got the Phobya 220 when I first built the loop for CPU only but it has coped manfully over 1.4 years.


Cue phobya rant from B- now.


----------



## szeged

B isn't alone here with his phobya hate.


----------



## Jimhans1

Oh, I am aware of that. But he is usually the most vocal about it. Personally, I've never used one of their branded products, and except for the "phobya" e-loop, I won't.


----------



## szeged

ill never be using a phobya product again.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> The pump is a Phobya 220 although I assume you mean Jingway is the OEM? No gurgling whatsoever though having returned from the pub the res is down by one inch. I got the Phobya 220 when I first built the loop for CPU only but it has coped manfully over 1.4 years.
> 
> 
> 
> Cue phobya rant from B- now.
Click to expand...

I wont complain about the Jingway as Phobya had no input at all in its design or manufacture,the E-loop is the same,its a Noiseblocker in a Phobya box.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> B isn't alone here with his phobya hate.


When you see a $8000 rig on fire because of a faulty Phobya product and to get "Is not our problem" from Phobya,its an easily understood hate.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wont complain about the Jingway as Phobya had no input at all in its design or manufacture,the E-loop is the same,its a Noiseblocker in a Phobya box.
> When you see a $8000 rig on fire because of a faulty Phobya product and to get "Is not our problem" from Phobya,its an easily understood hate.


trust me i know, im one of the people right along with you that hates phobya.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Nice build! But some of us are on mobile trying to fluff off at work!


Does that not mean the same thing in Cali that it means here in Michigan?....... I hope so.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Cue phobya rant from B- now.


Rants don't bother me. The only product I have ever bought which let me down was a Corsair AX860i but I don't think that makes all Corsair products junk.


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

its not leaning now! the photo was taken right after many hours of hard work so it wasnt perfect at that time! now its ok!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Does that not mean the same thing in Cali that it means here in Michigan?....... I hope so.


It does, but knowing @stickg1 I couldn't pass up making a "fluffer" joke.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I meant it as screwing around or slacking off. I don't fluff myself, lol.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I meant it as screwing around or slacking off. I don't fluff myself, lol.


It's a good thing, you'd never get any work done. Lol


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> The pump is a Phobya 220 although I assume you mean Jingway is the OEM? No gurgling whatsoever though having returned from the pub the res is down by one inch. I got the Phobya 220 when I first built the loop for CPU only but it has coped manfully over 1.4 years.


You really want to upgrade your pump, that's not even good enough for your loop WITHOUT the QD's, it's a weak pump designed for a single and small loop for a CPU only. Even the bigger brother is not good enough for such loop.

With that rig, might want to consider a D5.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> You really want to upgrade your pump, that's not even good enough for your loop WITHOUT the QD's, it's a weak pump designed for a single and small loop for a CPU only. Even the bigger brother is not good enough for such loop.
> 
> With that rig, might want to consider a D5.


Yes I will get right on it


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Yes I will get right on it


I had the EK DCP 4.0, which is the bigger brother of your Phobya 220 (Double the flow rate), and even that one struggled with 1 CPU, 2 GPU's, and a single 3x180mm radiator, the D5 made a good difference, plus it was much much quieter.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I had the EK DCP 4.0, which is the bigger brother of your Phobya 220 (Double the flow rate), and even that one struggled with 1 CPU, 2 GPU's, and a single 3x180mm radiator, the D5 made a good difference, plus it was much much quieter.


I am not an expert but all I can really say is that I have read many posts on here about peoples noise, vibration and heat problems with their pumps but for all that time this little feller has been chugging away with none of those problems. Maybe I got lucky.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> I am not an expert but all I can really say is that I have read many posts on here about peoples noise, vibration and heat problems with their pumps but for all that time this little feller has been chugging away with none of those problems. Maybe I got lucky.


That one is quiet, but it's also very weak, the bigger one (DCP 4.0) is VERY loud.


----------



## derickwm

I'm using a DCP4.0 with 7 blocks and a 480 rad and have no problems with flow rate or noise


----------



## snef

update






Usual Cpu Shoot, but i want to show the Memory block, to much nickel, add little bit of white and the result is really good


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I had the EK DCP 4.0, which is the bigger brother of your Phobya 220 (Double the flow rate), and even that one struggled with 1 CPU, 2 GPU's, and a single 3x180mm radiator, the D5 made a good difference, plus it was much much quieter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not an expert but all I can really say is that I have read many posts on here about peoples noise, vibration and heat problems with their pumps but for all that time this little feller has been chugging away with none of those problems. *Maybe I got lucky.*
Click to expand...

No.
They may not have the power but they are simple and reliable.


----------



## DarthBaggins

@snef.


----------



## d00bzilla

I hate you now snef. I'll never be that good


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Since when? Links?


I could be wrong but they have two o-rings with a screw down top. The one o-ring seems to be push-in and the other seems to be compression.

Bitspower Enhanced Multi-Links


----------



## X-Nine

Those are new BP fittings. Using them in my build. Yes, two O-Rings with a screw down top. Work fine with E22 tubing. Much cleaner looking than other fittings for rigid/acrylic tubing.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> When did you become a "fluffer"??


Lmao! My question would be what kind of benefits/retirement do you get with that job?


----------



## snef

still like more C47
first, you have 2 c47 for a dollar more than one of these

and i think they are little bit biger than c47 and regular angle fittings


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> update


Daayuum son!! Nice!


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> stupidly good looking build


After doing my copper pipe build, and then doing one with acrylic, I can't help but resent the fittings+straight pipe approach. You have it too easy!

Looks outstanding.


----------



## wermad

@Snef, gorgeous


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Guys, need a hand...
I have completed my loop:



But I found a problem...
After some hours performing the leak test (no leaks... Yeah!) and killing bubbles, I've noticed that every time I start the psu, the fans spin a little and then stops...
. I've checked the connections and seems ok
Then I connect everything, mobo and the rest and everything is fine, the pc boots Ok, but the fans do the same thing

They're are 2 nb eloops p2 with a Y connector and a nb BlackSilentpro pk2 connected to a Koolance rp1250
The psu it's a silverstone st55f-g and seems to work fine (everything it's new... With several months since I bought it but new)

Any help?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> After doing my copper pipe build, and then doing one with acrylic, I can't help but resent the fittings+straight pipe approach. You have it too easy!
> 
> Looks outstanding.


I really like the look of these straight pipe builds. Even though it totally defeats the wallet friendly advantage of just bending the tube. Perhaps I'll find a way to use both styles without clashing the looks of my build.


----------



## dna-systems

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Usual Cpu Shoot, but i want to show the Memory block, to much nickel, add little bit of white and the result is really good






I just ice cycled the under side of my desk.... NICE JOB THERE. After having a bent copper build, my next build will be straight 316-SS with BP fittings. Going that route for the look of perfectly straight tubes. There are few bends in mine that (from my point of view) aren't straight enough or do not have a tight enough radius to the bend.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> 
> I just ice cycled the under side of my desk.... NICE JOB THERE. After having a bent copper build, my next build will be straight 316-SS with BP fittings. Going that route for the look of perfectly straight tubes. There are few bends in mine that (from my point of view) aren't straight enough or do not have a tight enough radius to the bend.


Just work on your bending skill!

To each their own, but I really like the simplicity of those. Just browse through BNeg's gallery for some inspiration


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Usual Cpu Shoot, but i want to show the Memory block, to much nickel, add little bit of white and the result is really good


for me to buy everything you have shown how much?


----------



## kpoeticg

The answer might make you find a new hobby lol.

It's best just to make pretend it's affordable


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The answer might make you find a new hobby lol.
> 
> It's best just to make pretend it's affordable


One of the best answers I have read to date!! Hillarious


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The answer might make you find a new hobby lol.
> 
> It's best just to make pretend it's affordable


I just peed a little....GREAT response!!!


----------



## WiSK

Snef, that's fantastic









Can I borrow one of those white HoF's for my build?











Ended up using some random gloss white radiator spray paint for the EK heatsink, blue plastidip for the Apogee Drive II block, and white plastidip for the motherboard.


----------



## Pimphare

@WiSK Excellent work man! Looks great!


----------



## kpoeticg

Agreed, great job modding the Apogee. Board's looking sweet!!!


----------



## derickwm

Nice wisk, looking forward to seeing what you do with it and how things workout with that plastidip.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> update
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Usual Cpu Shoot, but i want to show the Memory block, to much nickel, add little bit of white and the result is really good


All my reps, snef, all my reps.

Your builds make it look like it was created by a machine rather than human hands.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Usual Cpu Shoot, but i want to show the Memory block, to much nickel, add little bit of white and the result is really good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for me to buy everything you have shown how much?
Click to expand...

Probably around 4K for everything in that build, but that could still be low, considering the case, fan controllers, typical hardware (mobo/cpu/ram/psu etc) and all of the rads, blocks, pumps, reservoirs, and then BP fittings which aren't cheap. Yeah, probably around 4K + time/labor.


----------



## DizZz

@snef your build is beyond gorgeous


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Snef, that's fantastic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I borrow one of those white HoF's for my build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ended up using some random gloss white radiator spray paint for the EK heatsink, blue plastidip for the Apogee Drive II block, and white plastidip for the motherboard.


Spectacular job on this, just WOW


----------



## DizZz

So many inspirational builds being posted. Makes me want to do another


----------



## salted_cashews

Hey guys, after about 8 months lurking in this thread while at work and being a member for 5 years and not posting once I may finally have some useful information, at least for people in Australia..

I found AP15s cheap ($17) with flat $15 shipping from this site:

http://www.nullifiedpc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52

I have ordered 16 myself and received them hassle free.

I may even be able to get some pics of my rig up once I install my replacement bay res and new ram block seeing as she's currently in pieces running on air since my bay res warped.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Those are new BP fittings. Using them in my build. Yes, two O-Rings with a screw down top. Work fine with E22 tubing. Much cleaner looking than other fittings for rigid/acrylic tubing.


So how do they compare to regular c47 fittings as far as "grip"?

It looks like the first o ring in the body seals just like the c47's but then the collar oring gets squeezed to create a hold on the tubing.

Do you find this is the case? If so how much more strength as far as holding the pipe in place compared to c47's?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salted_cashews*
> 
> Hey guys, after about 8 months lurking in this thread while at work and being a member for 5 years and not posting once I may finally have some useful information, at least for people in Australia..
> 
> I found AP15s cheap ($17) with flat $15 shipping from this site:
> 
> http://www.nullifiedpc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
> 
> I have ordered 16 myself and received them hassle free.
> 
> I may even be able to get some pics of my rig up once I install my replacement bay res and new ram block seeing as she's currently in pieces running on air since my bay res warped.


1st post in 5 years, wow talk about patience!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah there's gotta be some kind of award or something for that. I can understand lurking a forum for 5 years. Not bothering to register an account and then waiting 5 years to say hello









Lol, anyway welcome to OCN!!!!


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Those are new BP fittings. Using them in my build. Yes, two O-Rings with a screw down top. Work fine with E22 tubing. Much cleaner looking than other fittings for rigid/acrylic tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> So how do they compare to regular c47 fittings as far as "grip"?
> 
> It looks like the first o ring in the body seals just like the c47's but then the collar oring gets squeezed to create a hold on the tubing.
> 
> Do you find this is the case? If so how much more strength as far as holding the pipe in place compared to c47's?
Click to expand...

I find that they're holding just fine. Very solid, when trying to see if i could twist the tube out of the fitting, I actually unscrewed the fitting off the block.


----------



## szeged

i love the new bitspower fittings for acrylic, the fitting would rust away and turn to dust before it lets go of the acrylic.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Usual Cpu Shoot, but i want to show the Memory block, to much nickel, add little bit of white and the result is really good


Dude, Did you get that thing from Area-51?


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Why is your pump leaning towards the side?


the photo was taken right after i finished it so i didnt get into much detail for the photo! now its ok!


----------



## Pendaz

i finally made the move to watercooling, my first attempt - i'm 100% happy

Although i'm going to wait a bit to post pics as i'll be basking in the shadow of Snef


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Well I have half-solved my problem...
MY fans with the Koolance 1250 just work at 100%....

Any one knows what happens this?
My fans have to be pwm controlled for change the rpm?

Other thing how many rpm or level do you recommend to put the pump?
Right now I have it at 3750rpm (level 7/10)


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikazemonkey*
> 
> Well I have half-solved my problem...
> MY fans with the Koolance 1250 just work at 100%....
> 
> Any one knows what happens this?
> My fans have to be pwm controlled for change the rpm?
> 
> Other thing how many rpm or level do you recommend to put the pump?
> Right now I have it at 3750rpm (level 7/10)


If it's not PWM, I'm fairly sure the controlling device will just change the voltage blindly. PWM monitors the speed, hence the extra cable and pin. And cost









-Zepp


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Spoiler quoted pics please Hardware Decoder.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> If it's not PWM, I'm fairly sure the controlling device will just change the voltage blindly. PWM monitors the speed, hence the extra cable and pin. And cost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


So I have to go for pwm fans if I want to decrease their speed, right?
That's 60€ more.... And for now here I have a collection of unused fans









Maybe it's ok for now at 100% fans... (will play with headphones) If it bothers me I will change them and also the coolant (mayhems purple uv seems blue with normal and uv light)

Extra question about temps:
Sapphire 7970 vapor-x 29° on idle, 43-45° with msi kombustor after 20min
It's good enough?
(it's a custom fullblock)


----------



## repo_man

Bought some waterparts for the build I'm doing with Silentium (Syrillian's case), but decided they needed to be in my Phantom for the time being.


----------



## derickwm

Moar Silentium updates!?


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Moar Silentium updates!?


Hahaha! Head on over to my build log, I've posted a few updates over the last week or so. Check the OP, I've got all the updates listed.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1155188/repo-and-syrillians-silentium-on-the-road-to-quakecon-2014/0_20


----------



## derickwm




----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


----------



## derickwm

My Syril bench is still getting loved


----------



## repo_man

Ohhh, looks awesome man!


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My Syril bench is still getting loved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tubing through the slats of the window blinds to rad = win.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikazemonkey*
> 
> So I have to go for pwm fans if I want to decrease their speed, right?
> That's 60€ more.... And for now here I have a collection of unused fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's ok for now at 100% fans... (will play with headphones) If it bothers me I will change them and also the coolant (mayhems purple uv seems blue with normal and uv light)
> 
> Extra question about temps:
> Sapphire 7970 vapor-x 29° on idle, 43-45° with msi kombustor after 20min
> It's good enough?
> (it's a custom fullblock)


The 1250 uses a 3 pin form of PWM so isn't designed to use 4 pin PWM fans.


----------



## snef

Thanks fo your comments

Leak test and Night shoot







pretty closed to the end


----------



## wermad




----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks fo your comments
> 
> Leak test and Night shoot
> 
> 
> 
> pretty closed to the end


----------



## yoi

wow man , it looks awesome

( cables will ruin it for me , thank god im gonna fix that soon







-TOP SECRET- )


----------



## Michalius

Looks like you installed the wrong CPU block snef.


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Looks like you installed the wrong CPU block snef.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


what brand is that waterblock ?


----------



## kpoeticg

That's Dazmode's Exclusive version of the Supremacy, hence the maple leaf

Edit: Errrr maybe it's the Supreme LTX, can't remember


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


Thanks Bram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> wow man , it looks awesome
> 
> ( cables will ruin it for me , thank god im gonna fix that soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -TOP SECRET- )


Thanks, Build log? want more pr0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Looks like you installed the wrong CPU block snef.


pretty closed to use this one, but already have the supremacy (in fact i have 2) and i know with supremacy, need 30mm spacer to have the same height as memory block
not sure with this one but already use it in Purple Chimera and its a really good block


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks fo your comments
> 
> Leak test and Night shoot
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pretty closed to the end


That red and white color theme is very nice.


----------



## PinzaC55

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks fo your comments
> 
> Leak test and Night shoot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pretty closed to the end






I want it.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks fo your comments
> 
> Leak test and Night shoot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pretty closed to the end


That's one impressive build... In my opinion, I could give Sand Of God a run of its money...
I love it!


----------



## kpoeticg

Hell yeah. Such freakin eye candy!!!!


----------



## Kimir

+1


----------



## stickg1

@snef, why didn't you use the VRM block? Would it make that area too messy?


----------



## skupples

Does EK make white blocks for the HoF, or w/e cards those are?


----------



## szeged

nvidia doesnt, but EK does.


----------



## skupples

idk what you are talking about.


----------



## szeged

Edited by skupples - Today at 7:47 pm

the world shall know


----------



## snef

Thanks everyone, appreciate your commenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> @snef, why didn't you use the VRM block? Would it make that area too messy?


Couple of reason

First, really want symmetry,
Second, not really need it, i never saw the vrm high in temp with my 4770k
Third, what ever Asus said about crosschill block, i dont want aluminum in my loop, and at moment when i did my order, ek was not available and i dont like nickel spacer on ek block
Finally no need for watercooling vrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Does EK make white blocks for the HoF, or w/e cards those are?


Yep, EK make a white block for GTX 780 (Ti) HOF


----------



## stickg1

That's a fair explanation!

I won't be using a VRM block for similar reasons.

That and I'd have to buy one and I'd rather spend the money elsewhere.


----------



## VSG

If it's of any consequence, you can easily remove the nickel spacer on the EK VRM block. It is just a regular spacer put into a G 1/4 threading and you can substitute it with a white bitspower one.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks fo your comments
> 
> Leak test and Night shoot
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pretty closed to the end


----------



## aaroc

Rad01==>RAM==>CPU==>NorthBridge==>Rad02==>GPU01==>GPU02==>GPU03==>Rad01

Any recommendation where to put one or two pumps Aquaero XT and the reservoir (Monsoon)? I think the RAM runs cooler than the CPU, but I see that you put the CPU before the ram.
Thanks for your help!


----------



## kidcapp

Finished most of my acrylic bending.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Rad01==>RAM==>CPU==>NorthBridge==>Rad02==>GPU01==>GPU02==>GPU03==>Rad01
> 
> Any recommendation where to put one or two pumps Aquaero XT and the reservoir (Monsoon)? I think the RAM runs cooler than the CPU, but I see that you put the CPU before the ram.
> Thanks for your help!


Placement doesn't matter as long as you have res -> pump in that order then after whatever you like









That acrylic work is looking good, love the black


----------



## johnnybra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished most of my acrylic bending.


It looks great.

Did you paint the acrylic or buyed the primochill black one?


----------



## kidcapp

Thanks, Monsoon black one


----------



## Eze2kiel




----------



## Anoxy

I love that. Wish the case had more rad space though. I like the aesthetic.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Dang Snef...don't know why any one even tries any more with guys like you around


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Really starting to look forward to doing a sweet acrylic tube build myself! Not sure whether I'll recycle my TJ11 or go with something new (probably a LD V8 if I go that route)....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Really starting to look forward to doing a sweet acrylic tube build myself! Not sure whether I'll recycle my TJ11 or go with something new (probably a LD V8 if I go that route)....


STH10 vs LD V8
Quote:


>


----------



## szeged

sell the tj11, even though its amazing. get a sth10


----------



## wermad

I would stick w/ the TJ11 vs the LD V8. Other then that, I vote for STH10 or S8 (Horizon ftw!).


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would stick w/ the TJ11 vs the LD V8. Other then that, I vote for STH10 or S8 (Horizon ftw!).


this 100%


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Oh, I'm almost 100% gonna keep the TJ11. Its still my favorite case of all time (even over the STH10) and nothing else has the rotated mobo tray that I love so much. The only reason I'd consider switching cases is just to get something new, which I am always likely to do. I just think the CL would be too big for my desk. The TJ11 is about as big as can comfortably fit as is...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Oh, I'm almost 100% gonna keep the TJ11. Its still my favorite case of all time (even over the STH10) and nothing else *one of the few that* has the rotated mobo tray that I love so much. The only reason I'd consider switching cases is just to get something new, which I am always likely to do. I just think the CL would be too big for my desk. The TJ11 is about as big as can comfortably fit as is...


FTFY.

FT02, Raven 03/02/01, FT03, etc. have rotated mb layouts


----------



## skupples

STH10 Vs. Other large case = no justice done...

I'm trying really hard to resist buying the reverse ATX STH-10 kit.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is some really nice no-nonsense watercooling... with Lian Li love...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> STH10 Vs. Other large case = no justice done...
> 
> I'm trying really hard to resist buying the reverse ATX STH-10 kit.


That's ~$200, not worth it tbh. I think the cpu block is the center piece in a loop and a reverse layout would sort of hide it under the gpu(s). Well, that's the argument I told myself to not go reverse. Its a free option when ordering a new STH10. Plus, the postion of my STH10 meant the window would face the wall, so I stuck w/ OG ATX


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Oh, I'm almost 100% gonna keep the TJ11. Its still my favorite case of all time (even over the STH10) and nothing else has the rotated mobo tray that I love so much. The only reason I'd consider switching cases is just to get something new, which I am always likely to do. I just think the CL would be too big for my desk. The TJ11 is about as big as can comfortably fit as is...


Get the V8,the build quality is as good as the CL stuff...there are an excessive amount of bolts tho.

Get the STH10,the build quality is just as good as the LD stuff.....there are an excessive amount of these cases on the forum tho.

Either are good,neither are cheap.


----------



## kpoeticg

WiP. I wanted to have something functional while i practice my bends with my new Mandrel kit.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WiP. I wanted to have something functional while i practice my bends with my new Mandrel kit.


That beauty looks horribly expensive. I always admire people's work with elbow fittings and adapters, but I would never go that route. Too much of a budget-builder here x.x
Congrats, it looks amazing, all those cris-crossing lines give a cool complex look to it, I love it.


----------



## Pupo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> My first personal build ever:
> 
> 
> Pretty good, huh?
> 
> I'm not very happy with my EK DDC3.2 PWM. It's making a loud whirring/ticking noise even at lower PWM ranges and is by far the loudest part in my build. I'm not sure whether this is normal for this type of pump or if I have a defect one.


And case is?









tnx


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx =)

And yeah, there's easily a few hundred just in fittings there. My goal is to have those lines with no angles or rotaries, just C47's. But the Mandrel kits were sold out everywhere for a while, so i ordered the angles to get me setup. Then a week later the Mandrel's were back in stock at FCPU. So i figured i might as well make use of the hundreds of dollars in BP angles & rotaries i just bought and setup a temp loop while i learn how to bend.

I am really feeling these BP F/F angles though. They look great with C47's. I "THINK" it'll look better though if i can pull off the same layout without any angles or rotaries.

Edit: @Pupo that's a Compact Splash


----------



## Pupo

tnx

btw nice build


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx. Not a build yet though. Just a mobo. My Casemod is a HUGE WiP right now. I'm just happy i finally got my mobo situated so i can have a functioning pc while i'm working on my casemod


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Swiftech MCP35X + EK DDC CSQ acetal top + EK DDC Heatsink/housing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How much did it cost you to do this?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> How much did it cost you to do this?


The DDC heatsinks are under $30 at your local w/c etailer https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-ddc-heatsink-housing-black/


----------



## CoopsTHC

Not yet complete.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoopsTHC*
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet complete.


Nice Very clean.


----------



## khemist

Not sure what case i'm going with yet, i like the cheap nzxt 440 but it has no room for my monsoon bayres/pump.... will wait a bit and see what comes out.

I've been a Silverstone freak for a lot of years and hate to switch but i don't see any new things coming out soon.


----------



## liberato87

ALPHACOOL NEXXXOS MONSTA FULL COPPER RADIATOR 360 into phanteks enthoo primo


----------



## Dortheleus

Gang I need your input on a loop I'm planning to do. Here are pics:





Thanks for your input.


----------



## skupples

Gotta quick question... My MCP35x has Blue than green in the 3rd & 4th pin (respectively) on the PWM header... My Akasa PWM splitter has green than blue in the 3rd & 4th slots on the female adapter... I know color of the wire doesn't actually matter, but which pin sends the "rpm" signal? Is it the 4th pin?

nvm, googling ftw! Found a chart.


----------



## wstanci3

Guys,
I would appreciate your input on wc setup choices in my thread! Any suggestions, criticisms are welcome. Thank you
http://www.overclock.net/t/1479646/yes-another-thread-about-watercooling/0_30


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> How much did it cost you to do this?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The DDC heatsinks are under $30 at your local w/c etailer https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-ddc-heatsink-housing-black/
Click to expand...

This









EK DDC tops are ~$25-30 USD.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK DDC tops are ~$25-30 USD.


On Dazmode, if I'd go and buy those 3 parts ( MCP35X + EK DDC CSQ acetal top + EK DDC Heatsink/housing ) it would cost me ±130$ CAN. I find that expensive.

Is this setup worth 130$ ? Cause in my setup Here I would need two.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> On Dazmode, if I'd go and buy those 3 parts ( MCP35X + EK DDC CSQ acetal top + EK DDC Heatsink/housing ) it would cost me ±130$ CAN. I find that expensive.
> 
> Is this setup worth 130$ ? Cause in my setup Here I would need two.


you can get the MCP35x2 for a bit less than buying two DDC by them selves. Same for the EK dual top.

you don't actually "need" 2 DDC worth of flow/pressure for that intended loop though.


----------



## wermad

I found my 35X used on ebay for $60 USD









edit: that was about two years ago.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you can get the MCP35x2 for a bit less than buying two DDC by them selves. Same for the EK dual top.
> 
> you don't actually "need" 2 DDC worth of flow/pressure for that intended loop though.


You actually think I could do my loop with only one pump?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> You actually think I could do my loop with only one pump?


Wermad is running 4x GPUs, full motherboard, CPU, memory, & like 6 rads on one PWM DDC.

Might as well run two if it doesn't break the bank, but it isn't going to be a major issue if not.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Wermad is running 4x GPUs, full motherboard, CPU, memory, & like 6 rads on one PWM DDC.
> 
> Might as well run two if it doesn't break the bank, but it isn't going to be a major issue if not.


+Rep







Thanks for the info.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I found my 35X used on ebay for $60 USD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: that was about two years ago.


I got 2 used 35x's on eBay for $55


----------



## luciddreamer124

Latest pictures of "Project Magis" Nearly done!


----------



## Angrychair

she's a beauty


----------



## kpoeticg

Hell yeah. Sweet build!!


----------



## Drifbau5

I love that so much! I am a fan of horizontal mobo layouts. great job


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Latest pictures of "Project Magis" Nearly done!






Wow that looks good


----------



## Anoxy

#allhailluciddreamer


----------



## Neo Zuko

Art is never finished just abandoned.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Latest pictures of "Project Magis" Nearly done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dem Bitspower fittings!







Great color scheme man!


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> she's a beauty


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hell yeah. Sweet build!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> I love that so much! I am a fan of horizontal mobo layouts. great job


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Wow that looks good


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> #allhailluciddreamer


Thanks guys, I'm glad you like it. It's getting auctioned off April 26th at my high school


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I got 2 used 35x's on eBay for $55


Dayum, what a sweet score! Seller must have been desperate or naive imho (







).


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys,how much watts does a GT~15 pull,and how loud are these fans at full speed....? I have seen the martin youtube vid,just wanted to know from the users here with a case filled with them what they really sound like....

If all goes well i will be running 11 of them,6 on my top 360 rad,4 on my bottom rad and the other either as an intake or exhaust rear fan....

The weather in aus is changing so i'm going from 3 rads back to 2,so i can have my HDD back in the case with my lil one's movies....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys,how much watts does a GT~15 pull,and how loud are these fans at full speed....? I have seen the martin youtube vid,just wanted to know from the users here with a case filled with them what they really sound like....
> 
> If all goes well i will be running 11 of them,6 on my top 360 rad,4 on my bottom rad and the other either as an intake or exhaust rear fan....
> 
> The weather in aus is changing so i'm going from 3 rads back to 2,so i can have my HDD back in the case with my lil one's movies....


AP-15s run at 0.083 Amps (0.996 watts), with a startup rating of 0.36 Amps (4.32 watts).





At full speed on a rad Martin's test results put the AP-15 at about 45-46 dB. If you are going to run them at full speed you might be better off to use AP-14s instead.



Full size image link


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> AP-15s run at 0.083 Amps (0.996 watts), with a startup rating of 0.36 Amps (4.32 watts).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At full speed on a rad Martin's test results put the AP-15 at about 45-46 dB. If you are going to run them at full speed you might be better off to use AP-14s instead.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full size image link


Thx for the info....Already bought the fans,just waiting for them to be posted....

Why i asked is because i have seen members here say they run them at full speeds and that they arent loud....


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Since this is incredibly relevant to us WC'ers who spend a ridiculous amount of money, I thought I'd alert you to this from Jab-Tech, which @The_chemist21 thankfully pointed out in the Online Deals section here on OCN.

Their *entire* website is *50%* off. Yeah. 50% off.

I dare you to take a look at how cheap HWLabs radiators are going for @ their store. Dare You.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1479751/jab-tech-50-off-entire-site/

According to their Facebook:

Quote:


> In 2 months we are moving to a new facility, We don't want to transport all this inventory so help us out and help yourself to some massive savings.


*I am in no way affiliated with them. I just wanted to point out an incredible sale to those that don't browse the Online Deals section. Thank The_chemist21 for alerting this deal.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Since this is incredibly relevant to us WC'ers who spend a ridiculous amount of money, I thought I'd alert you to this from Jab-Tech, which @The_chemist21
> thankfully pointed out in the Online Deals section here on OCN.
> 
> Their *entire* website is *50%* off. Yeah. 50% off.
> 
> I dare you to take a look at how cheap HWLabs radiators are going for @ their store. Dare You.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1479751/jab-tech-50-off-entire-site/
> 
> According to their Facebook:
> 
> *I am in no way affiliated with them. I just wanted to point out an incredible sale to those that don't browse the Online Deals section. Thank The_chemist21 for alerting this deal.


Thanks dude +1.

There's a few things left. D5 pumps (new) $65, a few fittings left. Got my order in for a crimping tool, tim, and tim cleaner.


----------



## Nephalem

I was sent here from one of my posts about water-cooling help as I am unsure whether it is safe to use Copper and Nickel in the same loop, whether there would be any major problems with it? If coolant makes a difference I will (assuming I can get it in Aus) be using Mayhems X1 Blue


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nephalem*
> 
> I was sent here from one of my posts about water-cooling help as I am unsure whether it is safe to use Copper and Nickel in the same loop, whether there would be any major problems with it? If coolant makes a difference I will (assuming I can get it in Aus) be using Mayhems X1 Blue


Nope, no issue at all. Actually, most nickle products are copper plated w/ nickel. The one you want to avoid is aluminum.

Copper, nickel, brass, ss, plexi, & acetal are good.


----------



## Nephalem

Sweet Thanks


----------



## skupples

how do the dual color LEDs work?

Just gave jabtech 100$! Couldn't resist.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Since this is incredibly relevant to us WC'ers who spend a ridiculous amount of money, I thought I'd alert you to this from Jab-Tech, which @The_chemist21
> thankfully pointed out in the Online Deals section here on OCN.
> 
> Their *entire* website is *50%* off. Yeah. 50% off.
> 
> I dare you to take a look at how cheap HWLabs radiators are going for @ their store. Dare You.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1479751/jab-tech-50-off-entire-site/
> 
> According to their Facebook:
> 
> *I am in no way affiliated with them. I just wanted to point out an incredible sale to those that don't browse the Online Deals section. Thank The_chemist21 for alerting this deal.


Awesome! Thanks! +1

Got a few fittings and some other weird things I never want to pay full price for...









They are getting pretty cleared out though...

_*(Side note to web peeps: I had to edit this thing like 5 times because the the code kept pulling in old quotes, any word on a using a newer, like this decade, forum??)*_


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WiP. I wanted to have something functional while i practice my bends with my new Mandrel kit.


good god, the red looks impeccable!







i think my next project will comprise of blood red and black sparkle fittings..not now tho =X


----------



## pc-illiterate

@Maximus Knight good lord please spoiler the pictures.


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Latest pictures of "Project Magis" Nearly done!


I love your build but is it normal for a block to spill coolant over the edge like that?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> I love your build but is it normal for a block to spill coolant over the edge like that?


What are you seeing? Do you mean the blue mobo standoff?



Or something else?


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> I love your build but is it normal for a block to spill coolant over the edge like that?


Yes. Just think about how the O-ring is positioned.


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What are you seeing? Do you mean the blue mobo standoff?
> 
> 
> 
> Or something else?


No I meant this


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> No I meant this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yep, I saw that in your first post, as the pic I posted was taken from it, but I still don't see anything spilling "over the edge" of the block anywhere.


----------



## Lisjak

Well I meant spilling over the inner edge of the canal onto the flat surface in the middle. As Hefner said it's probably nothing to be worried about. But it doesn't look as clean as it could because of this...


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> @Maximus Knight good lord please spoiler the pictures.


my bad!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salted_cashews*
> 
> Hey guys, after about 8 months lurking in this thread while at work and being a member for 5 years and not posting once I may finally have some useful information, at least for people in Australia..
> 
> I found AP15s cheap ($17) with flat $15 shipping from this site:
> 
> http://www.nullifiedpc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
> 
> I have ordered 16 myself and received them hassle free.
> 
> I may even be able to get some pics of my rig up once I install my replacement bay res and new ram block seeing as she's currently in pieces running on air since my bay res warped.


Thx for the heads up mate, ordered 11 two days ago and just got them....



Re-doing my loop tomorrow and adding in these bad boys,will just be using my 360 top and 240 bottom rads,instead of all three....Cooler weather in aus so i wont need that extra rad....Can't wait to see how well they perform and how loud they may or may not be....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Since this is incredibly relevant to us WC'ers who spend a ridiculous amount of money, I thought I'd alert you to this from Jab-Tech, which @The_chemist21
> thankfully pointed out in the Online Deals section here on OCN.
> 
> Their *entire* website is *50%* off. Yeah. 50% off.
> 
> I dare you to take a look at how cheap HWLabs radiators are going for @ their store. Dare You.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1479751/jab-tech-50-off-entire-site/
> 
> According to their Facebook:
> 
> *I am in no way affiliated with them. I just wanted to point out an incredible sale to those that don't browse the Online Deals section. Thank The_chemist21 for alerting this deal.


Thanks for the heads up, got some fill ports and two 6-pack monsoon compression fittings to try them out. Not a whole lot of good stuff left other some nice 140,280 and 420 mm rads for anyone who needs them!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> Well I meant spilling over the inner edge of the canal onto the flat surface in the middle. As Hefner said it's probably nothing to be worried about. But it doesn't look as clean as it could because of this...


OK just noticed the circles / arrows you drew.









The part that your arrows point to is a channel cut into the EK block so coolant is supposed to cross there.



I do wonder if something couldn't be done to keep coolant from seeping into the circled areas though. Could a super-thin layer of clear silicone or some other type of sealant be applied to those areas of the block before the plexi cover is put on?


----------



## Lisjak

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OK just noticed the circles / arrows you drew.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The part that your arrows point to is a channel cut into the EK block so coolant is supposed to cross there.
> 
> 
> 
> I do wonder if something couldn't be done to keep coolant from seeping into the circled areas though. Could a super-thin layer of clear silicone or some other type of sealant be applied to those areas of the block before the plexi cover is put on?






Ooohh well that makes sense now







And you are right they could put some sort of sealant on the inner side. Would give it a much cleaner look.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> No I meant this


The part with the arrows = part of the block design. There is a channel there. The part circled is also common, as there is no O-ring there, it is just acrylic on metal.

this design changed when EK released the 780Ti revision. The original 780/Titan block did have an O-ring and a screw in the middle of the block.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Dayum, what a sweet score! Seller must have been desperate or naive imho (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Not really sure what was going through his head. I always browse through newly listed just in case a sweet deal like that pops up. He had it listed at $30 each, or both for $55 with free shipping. Jumped all over that. I think it had only been listed for about two hours lol


----------



## stickg1

I'm redoing one of my builds (the SM5). I have some nice parts for sale in the marketplace. I might even sell all my BP Shining Silver. Check it out, I'll cut deals for regulars or people I've done business with in the past! PM me if interested!


----------



## VSG

What's changing? Kinda shocked at you giving up them silver shinings though!


----------



## stickg1

I don't like the MVG. And I don't really care for any other currently available mATX boards. I'm taking the time to work on my mini rig. When new boards and chips are released I will decide what my next move with the SM5 will be.

I figure I'll sell the soft tube fittings and move on to hard line.


----------



## VSG

Gotcha! Good luck with the sale, I may pick some stuff up myself.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> how do the dual color LEDs work?
> 
> Just gave jabtech 100$! Couldn't resist.


lol same, bought a lot of random junk, and "extras". To good to pass up. Now I should have a few more options when I eventually do my loop.


----------



## Druccy

My First ever water cool build, been watching & ready for years now: waiting to video complete setup so will add completed unit later.
HAF Stacker 935 Case, Maximus VI Formula, i5, Corsair AX850 PSU, GTX 750 OC GPU Corsair Vengance Ram 8GB, Cooler Master Storm Mouse & Keyboard, EK water block CPU, Black Ice 360 x2 Rads & Res, SSD 120 GB & 1TB WD Green. What do you guys think of this. go easy I'm new to water cooling


----------



## skupples

Very nice! Let me welcome from the shadows, lurker.


----------



## szeged

looks good for a first time loop


----------



## derickwm

Weight before filling loop...


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

PC UPGRADES "PROJECT RED RIVER" final update! installed mayhems red pastel+deep red dye and white leds!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obLmxJFFq-A

Case: Thermaltake Chaser A31
PSU: Corsair AX860
Mobo: Asus Maximus V formula
CPU: Intel i7 3770k @ 4,4 Ghz
VGA: Asus GTX 770oc @ sli
Ram: 8gb kit Corsair Dominator @ 2000Mhz
SSD: Intel 320 80gb
HDD: 3x Seagte 1tb
Watercooling parts:
EK Waterblocksump, gpu blocks, gpu backplates, cpu block, fittings, radiator.
ALPHACOOL: radiator
PHOBYA: reservoir
PRIMOCHILL: tubing
MAYHEMS: fluid (Pastel Red)+deep red dye
AIRCOOLING:
CORSAIR: AF 120 and SP 120.
LEDS:
AKASA: Vegas white.


----------



## skupples

I have a soft spot for CoolerMaster.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have a soft spot for CoolerMaster.


I've enjoyed there stuff. Not the greatest but they do have good price/performance ratio imho. Spent more on a new V1000 psu but its worth it (though theres a tiny noise from both). Got a second one for ~$150 used. I have my Evo 212 for backup.

So far, had:

932
HAF-XB
H101 x2
H212 x3
V1000 x2
GX-700

edit: r4 fans (I lost track







).


----------



## Druccy

thank you


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've enjoyed there stuff. Not the greatest but they do have good price/performance ratio imho. Spent more on a new V1000 psu but its worth it (though theres a tiny noise from both). Got a second one for ~$150 used. I have my Evo 212 for backup.
> 
> So far, had:
> 
> 932
> HAF-XB
> H101 x2
> H212 x3
> V1000 x2
> GX-700


Not to mention hundreds of R4's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not to mention hundreds of R4's










forgot about those guys







.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forgot about those guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I love those fans. Probably my favorite non-GT radiator fan I've used.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I love those fans. Probably my favorite non-GT radiator fan I've used.


I luv my new cougars. They're so deliciously quiet


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I luv my new cougars. They're so deliciously quiet


Haven't tried Cougars yet, but have only heard good things. I'll probably stick with my R4s until they die


----------



## phallacy

Hey guys for a parallel setup for cooling 4 GPUs is this correct? Or do I have the inlet/outlet wrong? My understanding is the inlet/outlet have to be on opposite sides otherwise the water will flow straight from the inlet down to the outlet without passing on to the cards. Please let me know, thanks! I will be using XSPC razor blocks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phallacy*
> 
> Hey guys for a parallel setup for cooling 4 GPUs is this correct? Or do I have the inlet/outlet wrong? My understanding is the inlet/outlet have to be on opposite sides otherwise the water will flow straight from the inlet down to the outlet without passing on to the cards. Please let me know, thanks! I will be using XSPC razor blocks


This is correct.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phallacy*
> 
> Hey guys for a parallel setup for cooling 4 GPUs is this correct? Or do I have the inlet/outlet wrong? My understanding is the inlet/outlet have to be on opposite sides otherwise the water will flow straight from the inlet down to the outlet without passing on to the cards. Please let me know, thanks! I will be using XSPC razor blocks
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's right, but to go parallel with 4 cards will be splitting the flow to each card by 1/4. You might want to consider doing series-parallel instead that splits the flow to each card by 1/2 instead.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phallacy*
> 
> Hey guys for a parallel setup for cooling 4 GPUs is this correct? Or do I have the inlet/outlet wrong? My understanding is the inlet/outlet have to be on opposite sides otherwise the water will flow straight from the inlet down to the outlet without passing on to the cards. Please let me know, thanks! I will be using XSPC razor blocks
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can also setup "semi-parallel" and it will save you from buying one link. I have been told its slight better then all parallel or series. Its what EK uses for their quad bridges ( have the CSQ for my four gpu's).


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's right, but to go parallel with 4 cards will be splitting the flow to each card by 1/4. You might want to consider doing series-parallel instead that splits the flow to each card by 1/2 instead.


XSPC razor has directional water flow.. this setup would make GPU 3 and 4 flow backwards.
Im not sure if that is bad?

*Edit
Just remembered, I ran my razor backwards the first 3-4 months.. didnt see any temp difference when I corrected it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> XSPC razor has directional water flow.. this setup would make GPU 3 and 4 flow backwards.
> Im not sure if that is bad?


I have several XSPC Razor blocks and none have any indication of directional flow on the block itself or in the manual.

In fact, the manuals specifically say the direction of flow does not matter.

http://www.xs-pc.com/manuals/


----------



## derickwm

"Classy"

Intel Xeon X5680

Asus Rampage III Black Edition

3x4GB Corsair Dominator GT "Black Edition"

4x Asus ROG Matrix 7970

LEPA 1600W + Enermax Platimax 600W









































































More pics in log


----------



## stickg1

That's a sick build man! Next time wipe the dust off the window and vacuum up that little carpet. It killed the 2nd and 3td pics for me because the detail was so high that they stuck out me. But as for the actual project, I say well done!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's a sick build man! Next time wipe the dust off the window and vacuum up that little carpet. It killed the 2nd and 3td pics for me because the detail was so high that they stuck out me. But as for the actual project, I say well done!


Yeah definitely. When I first started I got really set on trying to keep the external as clean as possible (which was futile when armed with nothing more than a lint free cloth thing), then I started taking internal photos. I actually ended up cutting a lot of the photos simply because of how dirty they were :/ going to have to do another shoot later, preferably in another venue as well.


----------



## wermad

Lol, I didn't notice the dust particulates to care tbh. I need more ocn ocd powah to comprehend!


----------



## VSG

Hey look who isn't using a potato cam anymore! Good stuff


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Got my copper replacements in and getting the leak check done now!!! Stoked!!!!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Classy"
> 
> Intel Xeon X5680
> 
> Asus Rampage III Black Edition
> 
> 3x4GB Corsair Dominator GT "Black Edition"
> 
> 4x Asus ROG Matrix 7970
> 
> LEPA 1600W + Enermax Platimax 600W
> 
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Are my eyes seeing correctly? You actually finished a build log







? I must be seeing a mirage.


----------



## stickg1

Emptied my SM5


----------



## wermad

Those SS fans looks yummy up there


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Classy"
> 
> Intel Xeon X5680
> 
> Asus Rampage III Black Edition
> 
> 3x4GB Corsair Dominator GT "Black Edition"
> 
> 4x Asus ROG Matrix 7970
> 
> LEPA 1600W + Enermax Platimax 600W
> 
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> Are my eyes seeing correctly? You actually finished a build log
> 
> 
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> 
> ? I must be seeing a mirage.
Click to expand...

Photoshop.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those SS fans looks yummy up there


Agreed. Love those fans. At full speed (2000RPM) they move enough air to adequately cool most machines and at minimum speed (900RPM) are silent and still perform well. My new favorite PWM fan!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Got my copper replacements in and getting the leak check done now!!! Stoked!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean, lovin it!


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nice and clean, lovin it!


Agreed. Love it. Green isnt easy to pull off imo.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Thanks dudes!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have a soft spot for CoolerMaster.


Me too for some reason. I never have sold my CM690II as I always envision using it again one day, though I can't imagine on what...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Classy"
> 
> Intel Xeon X5680
> Asus Rampage III Black Edition
> 3x4GB Corsair Dominator GT "Black Edition"
> 4x Asus ROG Matrix 7970
> LEPA 1600W + Enermax Platimax 600W
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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Very nice build.

Thinking of going with that type of tubing for my folder, just can't make up my mind on what black fittings I want to use. Got enough spare rads that not going to use on the main rig, so may as well use them for the folder.


----------



## derickwm

It's good tubing for "true no maintenance". After all the plasticizer scares and one of my brand new pumps dying I'm pretty much will be sticking EK-ZMT or hard tubing from now on. To the inevitable trolls, I realize there are other brands like Primochill Advanced LRT that are safe as well. This is just my personal preference, and I'm a fan of the matte black


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's good tubing for "true no maintenance". After all the plasticizer scares and one of my brand new pumps dying I'm pretty much will be sticking EK-ZMT or hard tubing from now on. To the inevitable trolls, I realize there are other brands like Primochill Advanced LRT that are safe as well. This is just my personal preference, and I'm a fan of the matte black


That what I digging about that tubing. Plus, I want to go a matte black theme with my folder.

Since, some on the subject of hooking up sli cards up together. What would be the best fittings or route to hooking two up? First time going to water cool some GPUs, and my first for having two cards together.


----------



## derickwm

You can use lots of different methods. You can simply use fittings + tubing, but this usually requires at least two slots in between cards for fitting clearance.

You can use acrylic push fittings like our own "EK-HD", not really supposed to be posting product links so you'll have to google.

There are quite a large variety of extender fittings that you can put between cards.

Lastly there are bridges like our EK-FC Terminals etc. Depends what kind of blocks you have. Usually manufacturers will have their own type of fittings/bridges to go alongside their blocks.

Like I used a bridge that corresponded with our "Clean CSQ FC" line of blocks:


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Me too for some reason. I never have sold my CM690II as I always envision using it again one day, though I can't imagine on what...


I'll probably end up turning my storm trooper into as big ol' file server. Use my Max V Formula, get it a raid card, then fill it up with flash sale HDDs/SSDs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> That what I digging about that tubing. Plus, I want to go a matte black theme with my folder.
> 
> Since, some on the subject of hooking up sli cards up together. What would be the best fittings or route to hooking two up? First time going to water cool some GPUs, and my first for having two cards together.


if they are identical blocks you can use the WB manufacturer's link system. The other go to setup are normally called SLI fittings or the like. They unscrew, then expand, and come in every possible PCI-e spacing. I even use them to link up multiple rads & what not in hidden parts of my builds.


----------



## Kimir

Them matte black tubing, I'm loving it too!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's good tubing for "true no maintenance". After all the plasticizer scares and one of my brand new pumps dying I'm pretty much will be sticking EK-ZMT or hard tubing from now on. To the inevitable trolls, I realize there are other brands like Primochill Advanced LRT that are safe as well. This is just my personal preference, and I'm a fan of the matte black


I agree with this,copper,acrylic and Norprene are my tube choices,not used Norprene yet myself but the spec sheet is good for me.

If you are using a translucent dye then Acrylic is the way forward.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I just switched to Norprene for my soft tubing because I got sick of having to clean small amounts of gunk out of the CPU block. Plus it looks great, I love that true matt black look.


----------



## skupples

all this norprene love is making me regret moving over to white LRT for the STH-10.


----------



## VSG

Just be aware that colored Primochill tubing tend to be even more inconsistent with tube diameters and wall thickness. The clear LRT I have fit all my compression fittings nicely but neither the red nor the white go through without a major struggle. Some YouTubers have also mentioned this and I know other people online have reported the same.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> all this norprene love is making me regret moving over to white LRT for the STH-10.


Good.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/mugox4j

https://imageshack.com/i/jjiu9bj

Bought a new rad and some of the new Enermax fans... now to decide what case to go for.

I might end up running this externally into my TJ08 until i can make my mind up.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just be aware that colored Primochill tubing tend to be even more inconsistent with tube diameters and wall thickness. The clear LRT I have fit all my compression fittings nicely but neither the red nor the white go through without a major struggle. Some YouTubers have also mentioned this and I know other people online have reported the same.












I had to hot water dip my red tubing in one of my previous builds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Good.


----------



## dallas1990

I need 2 more rads and more fans. I'm going to get 2 alpha cool 240mm 35mm thick rads 8 120mm fans and I'll probably buy 2 more 140mm fans


----------



## cyphon

In the market for some good 120mm rad fans in the red/white color scheme. Haven't really found any on the usual sites. I'd like to avoid painting myself, but will if necessary. Any recommendations?


----------



## 15goudreau

rustoleum for metal based items. I did it with my black xspc radiator... turned out great. Just lightly sand in between coats and you should be good to go.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Norprene is cool looking but I still wanna see my coolant in the tubing. I'll be jumping on the acrylic tube bandwagon on my next build.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

well guys found an interesting video for those lovers of acrylics tubing but want bigger size 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID Hard acrylic.. the guys from mod zoo came up with a solution
it's very interesting, take a look.


----------



## skupples

That's pretty epic... I would be worried about leaks. I guess that is unfounded since threaded acrylic already exists.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's pretty epic... I would be worried about leaks. I guess that is unfounded since threaded acrylic already exists.


This.
Already done,fastfate has a whole loop if the stuff.
Besides,tapping acrylic is very easy anyway...


----------



## MeanBruce

Another first timer question.

The only location I have to mount my pump and keep the loop short without a reservoir is lateral and below the graphics card using the rear ventilation holes to attach the pump base. Really don't have any red in that area now, so was thinking of getting some red fittings for the pump top and radiator and using matte black fittings for the copper CPU block, the black and copper by itself just looks so amazing, adding red there, just doesn't feel right.









Is it considered bad taste to mix colors of fittings in a single water loop?

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_2187_zps2bce9f94.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6810_zpsbc542504.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6728_zps10cda2d2.jpg.html


----------



## Solonowarion

I think in this case it would look good.


----------



## 15goudreau

I would say it would depend on your color scheme.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Another first timer question.
> 
> The only location I have to mount my pump and keep the loop short without a reservoir is lateral and below the graphics card using the rear ventilation holes to attach the pump base. Really don't have any red in that area now, so was thinking of getting some red fittings for the pump top and radiator and using matte black fittings for the copper CPU block, the black and copper by itself just looks so amazing, adding red there, just doesn't feel right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it considered bad taste to mix colors of fittings in a single water loop?
> 
> ]


How about something like this?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=39186

pump res combo bolted to either back of the drive cage or motherboard tray? Bitspower has one that bolts to the floor as well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> well guys found an interesting video for those lovers of acrylics tubing but want bigger size 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID Hard acrylic.. the guys from mod zoo came up with a solution
> it's very interesting, take a look.


Awesome! +1









I have a g1/4 tap (and bit) and eplastic.com is 10 minutes from my home. Gonna try this







. Thicker wall may also help w/ the bends







. Thanks again mate


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> How about something like this?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=39186
> 
> pump res combo bolted to either back of the drive cage or motherboard tray? Bitspower has one that bolts to the floor as well.


I thought about that XSPC pump/res combo, but cannot figure out how to decouple/isolate it from transmitting energy through the motherboard tray.

Found this pump mounting base from EK, it allows the pump and top or pump/res to just sit on the included vibration absorbing feet or I thought maybe using some .5inch Sorbothane hemispheres or a Shoggy sandwich cutting out the middle so the D5 would slip right inside.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/ek-uni-holder-d5_01_zps71a901b8.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/ek-uni-holder-d5_02_zpse7731509.jpg.html

So then I could go with this EK top without a reservoir or this EK top/res they match the dimensions of the base perfectly.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/ek-d5-xtop-csq-ac_01_zps69ba04dd.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/ek-d5-x-res-top-100-csq-ac_01_zps3ba98f94.jpg.html

Thank you for the responses...


----------



## MeanBruce

Which brings up another question, would it be easier to just add a small reservoir to this plan? The first idea was to dry-fit the loop measure and cut the tubing then assemble and fill the loop outside of the rig, bleed all the air bubbles (using a separate PSU) out the top of the radiator's two extra ports, refill, seal the loop and then mount then entire sealed loop into the rig just like an AIO.

Then removing the loop for maintenance. It's only a simple 3 component 3 lines of tubing 6 fittings.

I think it can be done, but not certain what I'm gaining by avoiding a reservoir, increased pressure?

Now it seems like constructing the loop the traditional way in the computer and using a res would be so much simpler.

I'll just create a thread "Custom AIO, Can It Be Done?" and not clutter B-Negative's cool thread here. Thanks guys.









...


----------



## skupples

I guess it depends on how you want to do your maintenance. Having a small reservoir makes it much easier to top off your water, as water WILL evaporate over time. A loop that size will have zero issues with flow or pressure, so that is non issue.

Can it be done? I'm sure it can, but meh.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess it depends on how you want to do your maintenance. Having a small reservoir makes it much easier to top off your water, as water WILL evaporate over time. A loop that size will have zero issues with flow or pressure, so that is non issue.
> 
> Can it be done? I'm sure it can, but meh.


Hah, neither here nor there, I get ya man, guess I'm hesitant to take the full leap into water cooling and leaving the comfort of my H100i.









It's like a blanket....

I'll order the small reservoir tonight from PPCS.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Hah, neither here nor there, I get ya man, guess I'm hesitant to take the full leap into water cooling and leaving the comfort of my H100i.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's like a blanket....
> 
> I'll order the small reservoir tonight from PPCS.


Look at the Swiftech MicroRes. Very small and very versatile. There is also the Bitspower Multi-Z 40 res


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Hah, neither here nor there, I get ya man, guess I'm hesitant to take the full leap into water cooling and leaving the comfort of my H100i.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's like a blanket....
> 
> I'll order the small reservoir tonight from PPCS.


Make sure you have a variable speed pump w/ a reservoir that small. Also make sure it comes with/you order an anti-vortex fitting for it.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome! +1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a g1/4 tap (and bit) and eplastic.com is 10 minutes from my home. Gonna try this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thicker wall may also help w/ the bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks again mate


your welcome bud!!... i'm going to attempts this as well some time in the coming months...i cant wait to see how yours turns out


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> your welcome bud!!... i'm going to attempts this as well some time in the coming months...i cant wait to see how yours turns out


you by any chance know the bend radii? I'm going to the plastics company tomorrow to pick up a length but I'll need to get the 7/16 silicone cord from mcmastercarr.com.


----------



## ledzepp3

So. Close.




-Zepp


----------



## derickwm

Nice zep.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> you by any chance know the bend radii? I'm going to the plastics company tomorrow to pick up a length but I'll need to get the 7/16 silicone cord from mcmastercarr.com.


i don't what the bend radius is..however with that thickness and the proper bending silicone and heat you should be it just fine... also im getting mine from usplastic.com...here a pdf on the specs of the hard tube im getting maybe this will give you and idea of the bend radius

3/4 OD x 1/2 ID http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22752&catid=440

PDF http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/files/specsheets/Extruded%20acrylic%20tubes.pdf


----------



## lowfat

Hopefully it does not leak.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-30.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i don't what the bend radius is..however with that thickness and the proper bending silicone and heat you should be it just fine... also im getting mine from usplastic.com...here a pdf on the specs of the hard tube im getting maybe this will give you and idea of the bend radius
> 
> 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22752&catid=440
> 
> PDF http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/files/specsheets/Extruded%20acrylic%20tubes.pdf


I'll just play around with it first. Most places don't have enough m-to-m connectors to do my entire loop. I have some of these fittings to test a small setup for now. I'll get the forming rod and see it goes from there. I'm gonna build a small adjustable jig like DarthBeavis to help w/ bends. Only concern i have is to make the threads pre or post bending. Before, it would be a lot easier like the vid, but after, it can get tricky using that vise. I'll see what happens.

Thanks again









Edit: just ordered the rod from mcmaster. Only thing I could find close to the rod is silicone o-ring cord in 7/16 od. ~$7 + s/h for 3'. Hopefully it gets delivered by friday


----------



## sinnedone

Definitely looking nice lowfat, keep it going.


----------



## aznpersuazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hopefully it does not leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-30.jpg.html


I think it's a total success! I love this look much more sleeved! Keep up the hard work: oh btw EK mentioned your polished blocks on FB the other night. Lots of people wanted to know how to get the same look, so I linked your guide.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Just re-did my loop minus one of the 240 rads....

Got my GT~15's running push/pull on both rads and must admit i love the fact that they aren't as loud as my corsair SP's....


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Are my eyes seeing correctly? You actually finished a build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? I must be seeing a mirage.


Save that line for me too... Third times the charm right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Agreed. Love those fans. At full speed (2000RPM) they move enough air to adequately cool most machines and at minimum speed (900RPM) are silent and still perform well. My new favorite PWM fan!


How are enermax fans? They don't use sleeve bearings do they?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> all this norprene love is making me regret moving over to white LRT for the STH-10.


Is the EK ZMT tubing the same thing as noprene. Is there such a thing as neoprene?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Nice zep.


Oh god he said he it was nice!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hopefully it does not leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-30.jpg.html





Whenever I see any of your work and then there's a sudden twist, I always wat really hard for a second and then realize that you're a visionary in the world of PC. Absolutely stunning mate.

-Zepp


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Save that line for me too... Third times the charm right?
> How are enermax fans? They don't use sleeve bearings do they?
> Is the EK ZMT tubing the same thing as noprene. Is there such a thing as neoprene?


Not sure what the EK tubing is made out of. Yes, Neoprene tubing also exists.


----------



## USFORCES

Jellybeans


----------



## stickg1

I've seen neoprene jumpsuits for surfing, but I don't think you make tubes with that. It does make a decent flip-flop though!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Make sure you have a variable speed pump w/ a reservoir that small. Also make sure it comes with/you order an anti-vortex fitting for it.


Thought the best choice for a pump since I have the Aquaero 6 would be the AquaComputer Aquabus D5. Can use AquaSuite software to lower the rpm's or the A6 front panel or remote control. Never having owned a D5 really hope they are quieter than the H100i pump, at least at 30%, 20%, how low do you have to run them before they are inaudible?

Going to isolate the pump, hope that helps.


----------



## skupples

eh, pump noise isn't a huge issue once all the air is out.


----------



## Im Batman

I was going to get some standard vinyl tubing from the hardware store seeing as 3m costs $50 shipped here but I looked at the wall thickness and it's about half the thickness of the Primochill Advanced LRT that I ran out of.

My question is would a wall thickness of 1-1.5mm be too small for water cooling or pose any risks?


----------



## markjsg

Can I join?







this is my first watercool build, assembling them was exhausting but at the same time I had fun!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> I was going to get some standard vinyl tubing from the hardware store seeing as 3m costs $50 shipped here but I looked at the wall thickness and it's about half the thickness of the Primochill Advanced LRT that I ran out of.
> 
> My question is would a wall thickness of 1-1.5mm be too small for water cooling or pose any risks?


Typical hardware store vinyl tubing isn't very heat-tolerant and is likely to suffer from really bad plasticizer issues.

Edit:
Are you in the US?

http://www.jab-tech.com/tubing-page-2/

If so, Jab-tech has a 50% off moving sale going right now - sold out of almost their entire stock - but looks like they do still have some Primochill Advanced LRT atm sold by the foot.


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Typical hardware store vinyl tubing isn't very heat-tolerant and is likely to suffer from really bad plasticizer issues.
> 
> Edit:
> Are you in the US?
> 
> http://www.jab-tech.com/tubing-page-2/
> 
> If so, Jab-tech has a 50% off moving sale going right now - sold out of almost their entire stock - but looks like they do still have some Primochill Advanced LRT atm sold by the foot.


There goes that idea









No I am in Australia which makes it difficult to source a variety water cooling gear sometimes.

I just read that the Primochill is made from PVC, I found some Polycarbonate tubing if that is a reasonable substitute?

Thanks for your help Unicr0nhunter.


----------



## Jakewat

You can get pvc tubing from Bunning's, but it's pretty average stuff. Why don't you just use pccasegear? They have heaps of good watercooling stuff for a reasonable price, i wish they would actually ship to nz because it would be much cheaper for me coming from aus.


----------



## Im Batman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> You can get pvc tubing from Bunning's, but it's pretty average stuff. Why don't you just use pccasegear? They have heaps of good watercooling stuff for a reasonable price, i wish they would actually ship to nz because it would be much cheaper for me coming from aus.


The tubing from Bunning's is the tubing I was initially referring to but I was concerned about the wall thickness of it at only 1mm or so. I found a shop that does custom plastic products and they do Polycarbonate tubing so that might be better?

I wouldn't call the prices at PCCG reasonable, they are usually the most expensive of all the PC shops. Their Primochill Advanced LRT is $35 for 3m plus $15 shipping so if I can get a few metres of good tubing elsewhere for less it's worth a look. If I get some from PCCG I'll get the Alphacool Alphatube.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hopefully it does not leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-30.jpg.html


That looks so cool. I love that tubing


----------



## jpetrach

are you only going to do the lines running to the CPU block? I see you didn't do the one running to the pump? or are you just trying it out?


----------



## aerial

Some vintage Lian Li a7110 action:

Setup:
i7 2700k @ 4.8
gigabyte p67a ud5
gtx670 gigabyte

water cooling:
phobya g-changer 480mm
phobya g-changer 240mm
phobya uc2 lt (cpu)
bitspower VG-NGTX680 (gpu)
phobya balancer 250 reservoir
laing ddc 10w + custom copper top
feser 8/10 compression fittings

album: https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/LianLiA7110LC02


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hopefully it does not leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-30.jpg.html


That looks quite lovely! Guessing you used the SATA sleeving, or?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Some vintage Lian Li a7110 action:
> 
> album: https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/LianLiA7110LC02
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> side panel


Classic pictures very nice.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hopefully it does not leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-30.jpg.html


Nice work! Not into that look, but nice craftsmanship nonetheless.


----------



## SeeThruHead

anyone know if the aqualis base for ddc pumps is compatible wih the ek heatsink housing. Im willing to do a bit of modding if need be.

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p16359_Aquacomputer-aqualis-DDC-100-ml-with-nano-coating--G1-4.html


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> anyone know if the aqualis base for ddc pumps is compatible wih the ek heatsink housing. Im willing to do a bit of modding if need be.
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p16359_Aquacomputer-aqualis-DDC-100-ml-with-nano-coating--G1-4.html


everything ive seen, the housing works with all the other tops. i assume the 35x(2) needs different bolts/screws because the top is a lot thinner than other tops.


----------



## MeanBruce

Yea, I'm just not feeling it with the red and copper in the same view, makes the red appear orange and takes away the strength of the black.

Still feels a bit strange mixing the fittings colors 4red and 2black but if I use all black the rad and pump top along with the black Norprene tubing in the background will look bland.

I dunno, it's difficult. Anyone with a better idea I'm wide open for opinions, don't want my first water loop to seem appalling.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6911_zpse43ed1d0.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6912_zpsd60558f6.jpg.html

The black fittings on the copper CPU block do look nice though.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6914_zpsad137c8d.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6915_zps453d0b97.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6917_zps90cc2f94.jpg.html

Thanks for all your help skupples and everyone, I'm lost without input.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Black all day long.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznpersuazn*
> 
> I think it's a total success! I love this look much more sleeved! Keep up the hard work: oh btw EK mentioned your polished blocks on FB the other night. Lots of people wanted to know how to get the same look, so I linked your guide.











I didn't know they posted one of my blocks. Thanks for the heads up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That looks quite lovely! Guessing you used the SATA sleeving, or?


Yup. MDPC-X SATA sleeve.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Black all day long.


Agreed. Matte black. All day, erry day!


----------



## SinatraFan

Kinda like that red myself


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Kinda like that red myself


How about this red on the pump top? Guess I'll just go black for CPU block and red for the pump top. Radiator, probably matte black.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6922_zpsb6e4f421.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6925_zps95db97a6.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6923_zpsfad9c389.jpg.html


----------



## SinatraFan

ALL GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD!

I like it!


----------



## derickwm

Red on black looks great. Red on black on copper, not so much.


----------



## silveralf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6911_zpse43ed1d0.jpg.html


Beautiful in red!


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hopefully it does not leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-30.jpg.html


Looks awesome. Definitely cleaner than the way I did mine. I snugged it up to the fitting then used some shrink. Cant have the sleeve inside with my push fittings.


----------



## MeanBruce

Corsair H100i, I love you man, been so amazing to me, but you are about to be retired.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6928_zps9c581311.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6927_zps679a53da.jpg.html


----------



## badkarma3059

now that is sexy. Black and copper ftw


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> now that is sexy. Black and copper ftw


I'm mixing colors, I think that's not acceptable, I'll be cast out.









Getting the pump tomorrow and gonna build this crazy thing, a custom No-Res All-In-One.


----------



## badkarma3059

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'm mixing colors, I think that's not acceptable, I'll be cast out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting the pump tomorrow and gonna build this crazy thing, a custom No-Res All-In-One.


be original. Being a follower just gets you led off a cliff


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'm mixing colors, I think that's not acceptable, I'll be cast out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting the pump tomorrow and gonna build this crazy thing, a custom *No-Res All-In-One.*


How are you planning to do the bleeding and fill up? Just curious. Also curious why you don't want a res? Don't like the looks of them or just saving the $?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> How are you planning to do the bleeding and fill up? Just curious. Also curious why you don't want a res? Don't like the looks of them or just saving the $?


Bleeding and fill up outside of the rig, yes.

This is the space I have to work with lateral and below the video card. I could fit a small res like skupples suggested into that space now. But replacing the AMD 6870 as soon as I can with an ASUS DC2 Maxwell card at 6inches in width will eliminate that area for the reservoir, so I'm stuck with just a pump top and tubing space.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_1999_zps062619fc.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6810_zpsbc542504.jpg.html

I'm just going to build it, is there a reason why it won't function properly as long as I run the entire short loop removed from the pc, on top of the workdesk with a separate AX850 PSU pump connected USB to motherboard and AquaSuite to control the pump speed high and low to eliminate the air pockets and bubbles, then refill top off the radiator fluid?

If I can get that far with no leaks I'll remove the H100i and mount the new unit into the rig.

edit: testing the Norprene pull, this tubing is so tight against the Monsoon fittings with added torgue the tool provides, I don't believe leaks are possible. That's an awesome result, whew.









...


----------



## d00bzilla

Are you planning on cooling the GPU? I know that with my xspc gpu block I can turn the rig upside down and open a fitting on the card without a drop coming out and I hook up an extra barb fitting and some tubing. Then I just turn in back upright and gravity does the rest. This of course is dependent on the VGA block being the at the bottom of the loop.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Are you planning on cooling the GPU? I know that with my xspc gpu block I can turn the rig upside down and open a fitting on the card without a drop coming out and I hook up an extra barb fitting and some tubing. Then I just turn in back upright and gravity does the rest. This of course is dependent on the VGA block being the at the bottom of the loop.


It's really just a high performance getting my work done rig. I do plan on upgrading the GPU as soon as Maxwell becomes available.

...


----------



## Shweller

Hello, I would like to be added to the list and club please. I just finished my loop a few days ago.
Water cooling components:
Corsair 650D
XSPC 280mm rad with 2x 140mm bgears blasters
Phobya 200mm rad with 180mm Silverstone air penetrator
Swiftech 120mm rad with corsair SP120
XSPC Raystorm CPU block (i5 4670K @4.5ghz)
2x XSPC Razor blocks on EVGA SC GTX 770's
Primochill vortex flow indicator
XSPC D5 vario with bay reservoir
Primochill 1/2"x3/4" flex tubing clear with dual rotary Bitspower fittings and XSPC fittings
Side panel mesh with 4x 120mm corsair fans as intake.
Started as a 280 kit and got bit by the water-cooling bug. Only problem I had was one of my bitspower fitting leaked during the leak check period. Luckily I had an extra. I was inspired by all of the amazing rigs on the forum.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shweller*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, I would like to be added to the list and club please. I just finished my loop a few days ago.
> Water cooling components:
> Corsair 650D
> XSPC 280mm rad with 2x 140mm bgears blasters
> Phobya 200mm rad with 180mm Silverstone air penetrator
> Swiftech 120mm rad with corsair SP120
> XSPC Raystorm CPU block (i5 4670K @4.5ghz)
> 2x XSPC Razor blocks on EVGA SC GTX 770's
> Primochill vortex flow indicator
> XSPC D5 vario with bay reservoir
> Primochill 1/2"x3/4" flex tubing clear with dual rotary Bitspower fittings and XSPC fittings
> Side panel mesh with 4x 120mm corsair fans as intake.
> Started as a 280 kit and got bit by the water-cooling bug. Only problem I had was one of my bitspower fitting leaked during the leak check period. Luckily I had an extra. I was inspired by all of the amazing rigs on the forum.


Lovely 650D, had one for two years, amazing chassis to build into, awesome thoughts man, awesome work, I love it.









Do Be Do Be Doo...









...


----------



## nathanblandford

Co
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> How about this red on the pump top? Guess I'll just go black for CPU block and red for the pump top. Radiator, probably matte black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6922_zpsb6e4f421.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6925_zps95db97a6.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6923_zpsfad9c389.jpg.html


Could you use something like plastidip to make the copper black then use red?


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## d00bzilla

very nice but wheres the rest of it?


----------



## skupples

Glorious as always!


----------



## Korayyy

New setup, will have more pictures soon with a better camera. Was just happy to get a pic of it.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> very nice but wheres the rest of it?


My guess is... it's on the other side.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> My guess is... it's on the other side.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> very nice but wheres the rest of it?


Guys, have you seriously not been following James' build log? It is a must here on the watercooling community


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> very nice but wheres the rest of it?
> 
> 
> 
> My guess is... it's on the other side.
Click to expand...

My 'guess' (ok, not-so-much a guess) is that It's a work in progress - a sponsored build just a few weeks old. It's Jameswalt1's newest endeavor after winning OCN's MOTM last month with his Robocop build. Sooooo, the 'rest of it' is yet to come. From the looks of it so far it's going to be filled with AWESOME.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I'm so pissed that i can't enter MOTM here....sponsored builds are not allowed,even posting on another forum disqualifies me.
Such crap

No want

Much unlike.


----------



## Jakewat

Yeah they need another competition for sponsored builds of the month or change the rules back. Just because there is parts being provided it doesn't take away from the work you guys put into builds.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Yeah they need another competition for sponsored builds of the month or change the rules back. Just because there is parts being provided it doesn't take away from the work you guys put into builds.


You should see what I have coming up,Carbon fiber framed sim chair...and that probably won't be allowed to enter either.
Still,I do alright on other sites,2 MOTM on Bittech and a nomination ain't bad...wouldnt mind an OCN one to go with those tho.
Never mind,Magoo doesn't like the attention anyway,something to do with tax evasion and interpol he says.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You should see what I have coming up,Carbon fiber framed sim chair...and that probably won't be allowed to enter either.
> Still,I do alright on other sites,2 MOTM on Bittech and a nomination ain't bad...wouldnt mind an OCN one to go with those tho.
> Never mind,Magoo doesn't like the attention anyway,something to do with tax evasion and interpol he says.


I can't wait to see this upcoming build. Your builds are always something special.

And Magoo is always good for a laugh


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Yeah they need another competition for sponsored builds of the month or change the rules back. Just because there is parts being provided it doesn't take away from the work you guys put into builds.


True but if you are good enough at modding that companies are giving you free stuff you are obviously talented enough to be put in a different category all together. Imagine if there was no pro sports and we all played in the same league. None of us scrubs would stand a chance.


----------



## derickwm

Needs more categories then. The more people they can appeal to the better.

Not saying any of the winners of OCNs motm contest aren't as "prestigious" as winning a bit-tech motm but it's a little bit more well known and has a bigger impact when I see that they've won over at bit-tech.

If ocn wants to thrive, they need to step up their game IMO.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Needs more categories then. The more people they can appeal to the better.
> 
> Not saying any of the winners of OCNs motm contest aren't as "prestigious" as winning a bit-tech motm but it's a little bit more well known and has a bigger impact when I see that they've won over at bit-tech.
> 
> If ocn wants to thrive, they need to step up their game IMO.


^this +1. In fact several categories can/should be created. We have people putting their first WC systems up to people very talented and experienced. Another way to perhaps create several categories would be to follow case categories/sizes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Needs more categories then. The more people they can appeal to the better.
> 
> Not saying any of the winners of OCNs motm contest aren't as "prestigious" as winning a bit-tech motm but it's a little bit more well known and has a bigger impact when I see that they've won over at bit-tech.
> 
> If ocn wants to thrive, they need to step up their game IMO.


What does it for me is that I only really post logs and do a bit of WC advice on bittech but I invest time and effort in OCN.
For me,OCN is more....personal. I would rather be judged by those I spend most of my time with.

Even if they ditch the moronic 'cant post on other forums' nonsense,I would be happy.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Even if they ditch the moronic 'cant post on other forums' nonsense,I would be happy.


This. Most people who have big build logs going to be posting it on other forums as well. I am not going to sacrifice half of the views to my logs in order to be MOTM capable here.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What does it for me is that I only really post logs and do a bit of WC advice on bittech but I invest time and effort in OCN.
> For me,OCN is more....personal. I would rather be judged by those I spend most of my time with.
> 
> Even if they ditch the moronic 'cant post on other forums' nonsense,I would be happy.


Agreed. If they want to filter out people from entering who post on other sites because they only want the dedicated user base to enter then they should just eliminate the rule altogether and instead have a post-count rule to permit anyone dedicated to the site but which also allows them to post on other sites.


----------



## skupples

The only thing they are doing is reducing their owntraffic flow with these rules. It reminds me of a jealous girlfriend.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## phallacy

Hey guys what's the opinion regarding pressure relief valves? Are they needed at all if you intend to leave a little air at the top of your res? I was thinking about putting these on my fillport on the top of the res, but having a space for air at the top and one of these seems redundant.

http://koolance.com/vlv-vl002k-pressure-valve


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phallacy*
> 
> Hey guys what's the opinion regarding pressure relief valves? Are they needed at all if you intend to leave a little air at the top of your res? I was thinking about putting these on my fillport on the top of the res, but having a space for air at the top and one of these seems redundant.


As long as you've got a stop plug somewhere, and loosen it occasionally, you don't need a relief valve.


----------



## d00bzilla

Ok so I think we an all agree on at least two things

1. People should be allowed to post their mods in other sites without being punished.

2. Categories of some sort need to be implemented into the MOTM

Who do we talk to?


----------



## derickwm

There's a suggestion forum. Start there for the time being.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Is MOTM even running anymore? I see many gaps in 2013/2014 and the "official" threat is more or less dead.


----------



## PCModderMike

It's still running. Last months winner - http://www.overclock.net/t/1426275/build-log-robocop-finished/0_20


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> There's a suggestion forum. Start their for the time being.


Done

http://www.overclock.net/t/1481003/mod-of-the-month

If you support this suggestion please post it there.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Oh I see.. so there are still winners, but no votes or submissions?








I hope there is gonna be more easy to follow rules about this.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1183902/official-ocn-mod-of-the-month-contest-rules-and-discussion/60
has been dead for some time now it seams.. is there another thread?
Im guessing theres a new thread every month. but shouldnt they be posted in a main thread or something so they can actually be found by folks who wanna enter / vote?


----------



## Jimhans1

They changed the rules as of 03/2014, go back and read them.

They allow builds posted on other sites, only requires you to put a link there to the OCN build log.

Links:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> Last months thread with winner http://www.overclock.net/t/1426275/build-log-robocop-finished
> 
> This months nomination thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1479648/mod-of-the-month-april-nominations
> 
> They are both on the carousel on the homepage.


----------



## GaMbi2004

where ? http://www.overclock.net/t/1183902/official-ocn-mod-of-the-month-contest-rules-and-discussion/60 ? I dont see any changes since 2012, nor do I see any contests from this year.
Can you give a link to more info about this?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> They changed the rules as of 03/2014, go back and read them.
> 
> They allow builds posted on other sites, only requires you to put a link there to the OCN build log.
> 
> Links:


That is one silly rule IMHO.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> They changed the rules as of 03/2014, go back and read them.
> 
> They allow builds posted on other sites, only requires you to put a link there to the OCN build log.


"It is not posted on any other forums"

Pulled that right from the rules on the threads first page as to what makes a build eligible.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> "It is not posted on any other forums"
> 
> Pulled that right from the rules on the threads first page as to what makes a build eligible.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1475684/mod-of-the-month-march-winner-jameswalt1-robocop

Look in the OP of that thread.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1475684/mod-of-the-month-march-winner-jameswalt1-robocop
> 
> Look in the OP of that thread.


Then they need to go back and change it in the other threads as well to stop the confusion.

Also this "must be linked back to OCN" leaves a taste of strings in my mouth that I don't appreciate.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Then they need to go back and change it in the other threads as well to stop the confusion.
> 
> Also this "must be linked back to OCN" leaves a taste of strings in my mouth that I don't appreciate.


I agree they should update the rules thread.

And since the point of the "link back" is to increase traffic to the OCN, I honestly don't mind, but that is just my opinion.


----------



## paopaovocal

Hi,I never been here for long time after I decided to stop spending my times for building some rigs but now I'm back to right place again.
I think building some rigs as my hobby can reduce stress of my work and I always enjoy about it.

Here is my new rigs after leave them in the boxes for long time.





















Everything in these pictures are parts of my old rigs that I didn't sell it as preowned.I try to find everything that I can use in my home.
Here is the result.

Watercooling part are :

Rad : Koolance 360 mm,Black ice GTX 240,Coolgate 120 mm.
CPU waterblock : Swiftech apogee HD
VGA waterblock : Heatkiller GTX 580
Motherboard waterblock : Heatkiller for EVGA Z68 FTW
Ram waterblock : EKWB
Pump : MCP355 Mod pcb
Reservior : Bitspower 250 tank-z
Tube : Primoflex 1/2ID 3/4OD
Fitting : Bitspower,EKWB,Swiftech,Enzotech

Sorry for my bad in English.I'm from Bangkok,Thailand.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> Hi,I never been here for long time after I decided to stop spending my times for building some rigs but now I'm back to right place again.
> I think building some rigs as my hobby can reduce stress of my work and I always enjoy about it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my new rigs after leave them in the boxes for long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything in these pictures are parts of my old rigs that I didn't sell it as preowned.I try to find everything that I can use in my home.
> Here is the result.
> 
> Watercooling part are :
> 
> Rad : Koolance 360 mm,Black ice GTX 240,Coolgate 120 mm.
> CPU waterblock : Swiftech apogee HD
> VGA waterblock : Heatkiller GTX 580
> Motherboard waterblock : Heatkiller for EVGA Z68 FTW
> Ram waterblock : EKWB
> Pump : MCP355 Mod pcb
> Reservior : Bitspower 250 tank-z
> Tube : Primoflex 1/2ID 3/4OD
> Fitting : Bitspower,EKWB,Swiftech,Enzotech
> 
> 
> Sorry for my bad in English.I'm from Bangkok,Thailand.


Very nice pics.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I clear coated the front and res and as you can see,removed the Caselabs logo as it didnt really look right with nothing on the ped..

Nearly there now....












That 3M tape is awesome stuff.


----------



## DarthBaggins

3M is that good stuff


----------



## Canis-X

Looks great!!







I lurk a lot in this thread and have always liked your builds!


----------



## MeanBruce

Some Old Gold

A Corsair AX850 from a box of old parts. Hah, was getting ready to sell it, I'll keep it for external water loop maintenance, good idea right?

For a no-res loop it seems almost mandatory.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6930_zpsa61d3550.jpg.html


----------



## morencyam

Great PSU. I have one in my system and has been great since day one.

Personally, if it's just going to be used to power a pump on and off for maintenance, I'd either sell the AX850 or use it in a system, then use an old junk PSU for maintenance. I use one pulled from an old Dell server and cut off all the wires except the 24-pin for jumping and a couple molex to power the pump and to test fans.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm so pissed that i can't enter MOTM here....sponsored builds are not allowed,even posting on another forum disqualifies me.
> Such crap
> 
> No want
> 
> Much unlike.


Sorry about those untoward events, nice expressionism love it. hehe.









oops double post, how do I rectify? I'm gonna get spanked for that.









Just delete this OP...


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Great PSU. I have one in my system and has been great since day one.
> 
> Personally, if it's just going to be used to power a pump on and off for maintenance, I'd either sell the AX850 or use it in a system, then use an old junk PSU for maintenance. I use one pulled from an old Dell server and cut off all the wires except the 24-pin for jumping and a couple molex to power the pump and to test fans.


Thought about that, someone told me since the gold theme is so popular in certain regions and Corsair does not make the AX850 any longer I might grab $200 for it on eBay, then get a cheap $40 PSU for maintenance, that'll work.









Still has 5.5yrs left on warranty, yea I should sell it.

Thought about asking Performance PCs about a sponsorship for "The Little Custom All In One that Could" since I've met Hank and Duke and live just 10minutes away from their store. But all I really have left to purchase is the AquaComputer pump and some fluid, and my little 3tube 3component loop is fairly insignificant and boring compared to what you normally see on ocn, I'd be embarrassed.









Going with this fitting configuration for the loop, can always add more matte black if needed.



...


----------



## waveaddict

I want to paint these blocks white,except for plasti dip does anyone have a good solution/product or if volt regs and n/b s/b blocks should even be painted.( Due to temp)
From there site " It has been tested and proven in temperatures from -30°F to 200°F".


----------



## kpoeticg

Are you asking about painting the blocks or the tops?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I clear coated the front and res and as you can see,removed the Caselabs logo as it didnt really look right with nothing on the ped..
> 
> Nearly there now....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That 3M tape is awesome stuff.


That is turning out very nice. Mmmmmm, those Alpenfohn fans look nice in that case.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> That is turning out very nice. Mmmmmm, those Alpenfohn fans look nice in that case.


Alpenfohn?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Alpenfohn?


http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans

Little project I'm working on










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> I want to paint these blocks white,except for plasti dip does anyone have a good solution/product or if volt regs and n/b s/b blocks should even be painted.( Due to temp)
> From there site " It has been tested and proven in temperatures from -30°F to 200°F"


I saw someone do a test painted vs un painted and there wasn't any real difference.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans
> 
> Little project I'm working on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


making bendy straws for the kids?


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Are you asking about painting the blocks or the tops?


Just the tops.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> making bendy straws for the kids?


With phat 1/2x3/4 hard acrylic tube









edit: practicing, since its thicker then 3/8x1/2 or 12mm od tube.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans
> 
> Little project I'm working on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Please sell them as Jumbo straws.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Please sell them as Jumbo straws.


Cool idea! Prices: $99.99 for the vanilla, $149.99 for the Ti model, and $199.99 for the BE model (using Nvidia price model





















).


----------



## VSG

Bad Wermad.. Bad, bad


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Bad Wermad.. Bad, bad


hehe I like the straws.

add a little thermochip, SmartStraws.









...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> My 'guess' (ok, not-so-much a guess) is that It's a work in progress - a sponsored build just a few weeks old. It's Jameswalt1's newest endeavor after winning OCN's MOTM last month with his Robocop build. Sooooo, the 'rest of it' is yet to come. From the looks of it so far it's going to be filled with AWESOME.


True, I mean give the guy a break. He's probably too exhausted from all the "thank you" responses he's posted from people congratulating him on his MOTM. It's only been like, what, a week? No doubt James will be taking his time with this new build.


----------



## victorma

Are we allowed to post IMGUR albums? Here's my custom loop Corsair 250D Mini ITX.

http://imgur.com/a/jbmfQ


----------



## lowfat

Although this isn't exactly water-cooling, I bet the water-cooling crew uses more Gentle Typhoons than anyone else. If you want to remove your fan blades to dye or paint them you don't need any tools besides a heatgun. Use a heatgun on low on the front of the fan. Heating the center and the sides of the hub. You should just easily be able to slide the fan blades off the hub after the glue starts to let go. No messing with c-clips or need to lube the shafts.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-39.jpg.html


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Although this isn't exactly water-cooling, I bet the water-cooling crew uses more Gentle Typhoons than anyone else. If you want to remove your fan blades to dye or paint them you don't need any tools besides a heatgun. Use a heatgun on low on the front of the fan. Heating the center and the sides of the hub. You should just easily be able to slide the fan blades off the hub after the glue starts to let go. No messing with c-clips or need to lube the shafts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-39.jpg.html


I wish I had seen this a week ago! Just ended up spraying mine


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Although this isn't exactly water-cooling, I bet the water-cooling crew uses more Gentle Typhoons than anyone else. If you want to remove your fan blades to dye or paint them you don't need any tools besides a heatgun. Use a heatgun on low on the front of the fan. Heating the center and the sides of the hub. You should just easily be able to slide the fan blades off the hub after the glue starts to let go. No messing with c-clips or need to lube the shafts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-39.jpg.html


How well does it hold AFTER that though? And do you use a glue to reattach it, and if so, what glue?

And thanks for the info, I have 20 AP-14's I'm deciding what to do with ATM.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Speaking of GT's, one of the fans on my rad is making a ticking sound at low speeds (1000rpm) anyway to fix this....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Speaking of GT's, one of the fans on my rad is making a ticking sound at low speeds (1000rpm) anyway to fix this....


Lol, turn it up


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *victorma*
> 
> Are we allowed to post IMGUR albums? Here's my custom loop Corsair 250D Mini ITX.
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/jbmfQ


That's a sweet build


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> How well does it hold AFTER that though? And do you use a glue to reattach it, and if so, what glue?
> 
> And thanks for the info, I have 20 AP-14's I'm deciding what to do with ATM.


I just rewarm the hub and slide the blades back on. All the glue stays on the hub from my experience. They are quite secure afterward.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I just rewarm the hub and slide the blades back on. All the glue stays on the hub from my experience. They are quite secure afterward.


Thanks, +rep for the knowledge sir!


----------



## victorma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> That's a sweet build


Thanks! Finally got it done today; was super excited


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Currently removing the Mcp35x set that I have, as soon as the EKD5 variants arrive. I plan on mounting them low, but I was wondering if I could mount one on the upper part of the case with the inlet toward the front and the out toward the right side, looking directly into the case? If I can, I am going to keep a res above it, but the stupid koolance res I have leaks. Both of them do as a matter of fact. I won't even put my koolance QDCs in because everything I have has failed after I purchased from them. I am not impressed with that company.


----------



## SeeThruHead

This:



or this:



?


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> This:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or this:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


both looks good , but it depends on how much space u have on the desk .


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> both looks good , but it depends on how much space u have on the desk .





leaning towards the second one. The fat version looks good on something like the parvum cases i think because they have room for radatiors in the front and top making it less squat looking.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Speaking of GT's, one of the fans on my rad is making a ticking sound at low speeds (1000rpm) anyway to fix this....


Not likely, I was going to mention this when you talked about the previous SP120's ticking. It isn't fans that create ticking, it is the fan controller. Some cheaper ones use a pulsed voltage to simulate a lower voltage, the rapid changes in voltage create the noise in the fan motors. The lower the voltage the wider the gaps in peak and min voltage so they become easier to hear. Just like looking at an animation or flickbook, if the pages change slowly its easier to see a jerking motion than at high speeds.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hi gang,

I'm going to be making my own reservoir in autocad then having it 3D printed my a local printer and I was wondering if the tube diameter and wall width were standard? And if anyone had the measurements?

Thanks


----------



## derickwm

There isn't really a standard. Most vary ever so slightly. As long as you have G1/4 fittings you'll be fine with whatever.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hi gang,
> 
> I'm going to be making my own reservoir in autocad then having it 3D printed my a local printer and I was wondering if the tube diameter and wall width were standard? And if anyone had the measurements?ip
> 
> Thanks


1/4" BSPP ports are standard,7-10mm wall thickness for a bay res is normal.
Not sure what kind of clarity printing material has if you actually want to see the coolant...

Tube res are normally 5-6mm cast acrylic


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> leaning towards the second one. The fat version looks good on something like the parvum cases i think because they have room for radatiors in the front and top making it less squat looking.


maybe most of us will say that the second one looks better , but its just because we are acustom to a case with that shape , that anything else with another shape will look odd

the reason i like the second one is that it uses less space on the desk

but then again u can put the cube one close to the wall and with the window facing you and it will look great


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 1/4" BSPP ports are standard,7-10mm wall thickness for a bay res is normal.
> Not sure what kind of clarity printing material has if you actually want to see the coolant...
> 
> Tube res are normally 5-6mm cast acrylic


The reservoir I'm going to have will be made in a Acrylic type material and I'll be having the in and out tubes made into the reservoir, so that it will be one piece.

I don't have any tubes on hand so I can't take the measurements. That's why I'm asking for your help.


----------



## d00bzilla

I'd like to see a 3d printed anything put to actual use. That deserves a thread of it own if you ask me. Imagine if we all start printing custom parts for ourselves.


----------



## Dortheleus

I tried to look for a 6" reservoir but no one makes them. So I'll be making my own. In my Build The reservoir takes center stage.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> I'd like to see a 3d printed anything put to actual use. That deserves a thread of it own if you ask me. Imagine if we all start printing custom parts for ourselves.


I dont print parts but I do make custom bits....a res in this instance.







Easier to CNC the flat panels and then solvent weld them....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 1/4" BSPP ports are standard,7-10mm wall thickness for a bay res is normal.
> Not sure what kind of clarity printing material has if you actually want to see the coolant...
> 
> Tube res are normally 5-6mm cast acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> The reservoir I'm going to have will be made in a Acrylic type material and I'll be having the in and out tubes made into the reservoir, so that it will be one piece.
> 
> I don't have any tubes on hand so I can't take the measurements. That's why I'm asking for your help.
Click to expand...

12mm OD tube is the norm,you can use 16mm and EK fittings also


----------



## Dortheleus

So this is what I'm thinking of getting printed:


----------



## Chomuco

Little Devil V8 Tvelander !

http://imgur.com/a/Wb7uX


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Speaking of GT's, one of the fans on my rad is making a ticking sound at low speeds (1000rpm) anyway to fix this....
> 
> 
> 
> Not likely, I was going to mention this when you talked about the previous SP120's ticking. It isn't fans that create ticking, it is the fan controller. Some cheaper ones use a pulsed voltage to simulate a lower voltage, the rapid changes in voltage create the noise in the fan motors. The lower the voltage the wider the gaps in peak and min voltage so they become easier to hear. Just like looking at an animation or flickbook, if the pages change slowly its easier to see a jerking motion than at high speeds.
Click to expand...

To give you a visual of what Jackusonfire is talking about, here's a scope view of a low end Lamptron FC3 at a low speed setting:



The yellow reference line is 0V.

Darlene


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm so pissed that i can't enter MOTM here....sponsored builds are not allowed,even posting on another forum disqualifies me.
> Such crap
> 
> No want
> 
> Much unlike.


I think it's fair. Sponsored builds should belong on a different category. But why not make a non sponsored build?


----------



## skupples

they should definitely have a MOTM for sponsored folks.

While sponsored folks save a bit of money, they also spend allot more time.


----------



## Anoxy

Now that my re-build is done, I don't know what to do with myself. I wish a sweet new processor and GPU architecture would release so I'd have an excuse to waste my money some more.

I don't like saving money


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Now that my re-build is done, I don't know what to do with myself. I wish a sweet new processor and GPU architecture would release so I'd have an excuse to waste my money some more.
> 
> I don't like saving money


Wait like 6mo for the new Intel chipsets, DDR4, and SATA express


----------



## Anoxy

Hot damn, 6 months. Guess I'll actually be doing some gaming and using my computer instead of tinkering with it


----------



## Jimhans1

Lol, so, my Jab-Tech order showed up today, and almost half of it is missing, and the box was sealed and un-tampered with.


----------



## VSG

What? I got mine delivered yesterday. I need to ask my girlfriend to check and make sure everything is in. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What? I got mine delivered yesterday. I need to ask my girlfriend to check and make sure everything is in. Thanks for the info.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, so, my Jab-Tech order showed up today, and almost half of it is missing, and the box was sealed and un-tampered with.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What? I got mine delivered yesterday. I need to ask my girlfriend to check and make sure everything is in. Thanks for the info.


I got mine today and everything was in order. It was a small order though, only consisting of 6 total items


----------



## TwentyCent

That went well











Oh BTW haven't has any issues running 1/2" copper piping with the EK 12/16mm fittings. Mind you, I applied a tiny bit of water on the o-rings prior to installing the pipe, as required. The pipe is also polished, which might also help keeping it watertight. Will probably polish it some more and clear coat it when I install the CPU block.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, so, my Jab-Tech order showed up today, and almost half of it is missing, and the box was sealed and un-tampered with.


My packaged showed up today, one day late. One of the major things I ordered was incorrectly packaged.

I ordered 10x: Bitspower G1/4 Matt Black Anti-Twist Adapter - BP-MBDR-C (rotary extensions)

my invoice magically changed it to 10x: Bitspower Matt Black G 3/8 to G 1/4 adapter - BP-MBWP-C23

they shipped me 10x: Bitspower G1/4 Stubby Fitting - 3/8" Matte Black - BP-MBWP-C13 (barbs)

I contacted them. They told me to send it back for refund/replacement. They did not offer to pay for shipping, so I will be using the heavily discounted shipping I get @ work. This $25 worth of garbage is half of the money I saved. I will be filing a dispute with paypal for the full amount of they don't resolve the issue.

Owell, still got 8x 1/2 x 3/4 rotary compression for dirt cheap, and some other random bits & pieces... OH WAIT... I just remembered, my LEDs were not in the box. Great, I can not add an addendum to my support ticket to report the LEDs.


----------



## VSG

My package seems all good. Can't wait to try out those Monsoons, my poor fingers have suffered enough from the Bitspower fittings.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My packaged showed up today, one day late. One of the major things I ordered was incorrectly packaged.
> 
> I ordered 10x: Bitspower G1/4 Matt Black Anti-Twist Adapter - BP-MBDR-C (rotary extensions)
> 
> my invoice magically changed it to 10x: Bitspower Matt Black G 3/8 to G 1/4 adapter - BP-MBWP-C23
> 
> they shipped me 10x: Bitspower G1/4 Stubby Fitting - 3/8" Matte Black - BP-MBWP-C13 (barbs)
> 
> I contacted them. They told me to send it back for refund/replacement. They did not offer to pay for shipping, so I will be using the heavily discounted shipping I get @ work. This $25 worth of garbage is half of the money I saved. I will be filing a dispute with paypal for the full amount of they don't resolve the issue.
> 
> Owell, still got 8x 1/2 x 3/4 rotary compression for dirt cheap, and some other random bits & pieces... OH WAIT... I just remembered, my LEDs were not in the box. Great, I can not add an addendum to my support ticket to report the LEDs.


I'm missing an HWL GTX 360 & 240!!!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Love the look of those fans,what brand are they....?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the look of those fans,what brand are they....?


Cooler Master JetFlo's. Check his thread for his opinions on them


----------



## d00bzilla

Pretty significant update to my build I have going in case mod section. Very water cooled related. I already posted photos there so if you want to check it out here's the link.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1479811/build-log-antec-p280-gets-a-makeover#post_22099864


----------



## Neo Zuko

I'm not sure I like messing with glue on my GT fans... I can't believe that's how they are actually attached.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'm not sure I like messing with glue on my GT fans... I can't believe that's how they are actually attached.


Not too many ways to get plastic to stick to steel.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'm not sure I like messing with glue on my GT fans... I can't believe that's how they are actually attached.


ehh... I don't think it is much of an issue. You can probably re-use the original glue with more heat, depending on how tacky it is.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm so pissed that i can't enter MOTM here....sponsored builds are not allowed,even posting on another forum disqualifies me.
> Such crap
> 
> No want
> 
> Much unlike.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's fair. Sponsored builds should belong on a different category. But why not make a non sponsored build?
Click to expand...

My builds always start unsponsored but then they offer me stuff.
Why should I be penalized for that,Im part of the community,I put a lot of time into this forum,being excluded for having a skill that benefits the forum is fail.
Having to pay for sponsored build logs is also a joke,exploiting others for their skills.

That said,if its ALL sponsored then it does belong in a different category,you will take more risks for a machine with a short shelf life. My builds look good and that but they fundamentally retain all the functionality,SSD's are returnable because they are intact...that sort of thing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> they should definitely have a MOTM for sponsored folks.
> 
> While sponsored folks save a bit of money, they also spend allot more time.


They also invest a considerable amount of their own money on tooling,parts and hardware.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My packaged showed up today, one day late. One of the major things I ordered was incorrectly packaged.
> 
> I ordered 10x: Bitspower G1/4 Matt Black Anti-Twist Adapter - BP-MBDR-C (rotary extensions)
> 
> my invoice magically changed it to 10x: Bitspower Matt Black G 3/8 to G 1/4 adapter - BP-MBWP-C23
> 
> they shipped me 10x: Bitspower G1/4 Stubby Fitting - 3/8" Matte Black - BP-MBWP-C13 (barbs)
> 
> I contacted them. They told me to send it back for refund/replacement. They did not offer to pay for shipping, so I will be using the heavily discounted shipping I get @ work. This $25 worth of garbage is half of the money I saved. I will be filing a dispute with paypal for the full amount of they don't resolve the issue.
> 
> Owell, still got 8x 1/2 x 3/4 rotary compression for dirt cheap, and some other random bits & pieces... OH WAIT... I just remembered, my LEDs were not in the box. Great, I can not add an addendum to my support ticket to report the LEDs.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm missing an HWL GTX 360 & 240!!!
Click to expand...

Lovely rads,good choice.

I suggest you 'go postal'


----------



## kpoeticg

BNEG, i agree with you. I know how much time, effort, and money you and others have put into "Sponsored" builds. Should definitely be eligible. Especially with the different levels of sponsorship out there. I've seen build's on BT getting sponsored by Intel and Asus, that's understandable. But not when you just got a few rads or ssd's or whatever.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'm not sure I like messing with glue on my GT fans... I can't believe that's how they are actually attached.


That's just one way to take them off. The "Normal" way to take apart GT's is to peel the sticker off the back, carefully take the C-Clip off (that likes to go flying across the room) then just pull the blades off.

Lowfat just offered another way that you don't have to bother with the C-Clip


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Having to pay for sponsored build logs is also a joke,exploiting others for their skills.


I have always wondered about this- who pays for a sponsored build log? Actually it doesn't really matter. What is the payment for? Do you get anything extra guaranteed for the fee? Is the fee a small amount?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have always wondered about this- who pays for a sponsored build log? Actually it doesn't really matter. What is the payment for? Do you get anything extra guaranteed for the fee? Is the fee a small amount?


The theory goes that, by sponsoring builds, companies are getting free advertising and then might not need to invest (so much) in placing regular ads on this forum. The sponsored build log fee offsets this. No idea what the fee is


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The fee is $29 per sponsored thread or 3 threads for $79.
Wisk has hit it on the head, companies choose to sponsor as it is cheaper than paying for actual advertising. OCN encourages you to see if the sponsors will pay the fee as they are the ones getting the advertising.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And yet OCN is the ONLY site to do this,why do they feel the need to profiteer? Seeing as we have paid for the log,we should be allowed to enter MOTM,the advertising as you put it is no different to any other log on this site. Everybody goes into great detail over parts,sponsored logs are no different to the regular log.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, so, my Jab-Tech order showed up today, and almost half of it is missing, and the box was sealed and un-tampered with.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I got mine today and everything was in order. It was a small order though, only consisting of 6 total items


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My packaged showed up today, one day late. One of the major things I ordered was incorrectly packaged.
> 
> I ordered 10x: Bitspower G1/4 Matt Black Anti-Twist Adapter - BP-MBDR-C (rotary extensions)
> 
> my invoice magically changed it to 10x: Bitspower Matt Black G 3/8 to G 1/4 adapter - BP-MBWP-C23
> 
> they shipped me 10x: Bitspower G1/4 Stubby Fitting - 3/8" Matte Black - BP-MBWP-C13 (barbs)
> 
> I contacted them. They told me to send it back for refund/replacement. They did not offer to pay for shipping, so I will be using the heavily discounted shipping I get @ work. This $25 worth of garbage is half of the money I saved. I will be filing a dispute with paypal for the full amount of they don't resolve the issue.
> 
> Owell, still got 8x 1/2 x 3/4 rotary compression for dirt cheap, and some other random bits & pieces... OH WAIT... I just remembered, my LEDs were not in the box. Great, I can not add an addendum to my support ticket to report the LEDs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'm missing an HWL GTX 360 & 240!!!


Wow, sorry about anyone's bad luck. FWIW, I placed 2 separate orders with them, one for ~$90 and one for ~$75, and both arrived yesterday on time and with everything I ordered intact, including, among many other things, 4 of those Bitspower G1/4 Matt Black Anti-Twist Adapters and a GT stealth 360 (still can't hardly believe I scored this rad for $27







)


----------



## jpetrach

i would like the opinion of the group on this inexpensive kit. I bought this in an effort to part it out, it seems like a good deal. pics to follow. it doesn't come with fans, not a down side to me because I like what I like but parts seem sturdy. fittings and rad well packed. the rad however has a little different design not sure how it will work. its built like a vga stock heat sink copper tubes with aluminum drilled and slid over for the fins. and water block is nickel







not copper. pump res combo is small form facture. fittings swivel, comes with spring for kinks, but for 160$ free prime shipping, looks good for non sponsored builds, and expandable to.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Watercooling-Hadron-Hydro-100-WC-S201-BR/dp/B00IKDFK86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397305195&sr=8-1&keywords=hadron+cooling+kit


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The more I see the small water cool builds the more I just love them.

Plus, I really need to start getting a few parts for the two Splashes I have, so I can get them put together. My Dad probably wondering what taking me so long on building him a nice small computer.


----------



## TwentyCent

I don't think it would be fair to have sponsored builds competing against non-sponsored.

That being said, couldn't there be 2 MOTM categories? This site probably sees enough builds to fill both categories every month?


----------



## skupples

I really doubt these companies are saving any money with the amount of hardware they give away. It may cost them 10% of what we pay, and they may be able to write off the parts (?) but you have to figure in the profit they lose by giving away the the free bits. Now some one will say "rabble rabble people buy their stuff because of sponsored build logs" well to that i say herpaderp, people buy stuff when we sneeze. Case in point the Fujipoly talks of 6 months ago. PPC & FCPU both sold out within a few days of many of us talking about it.

give them each their own MOTM thread. Be done with it.

Obviously OCN has the moral high ground here, being the only forum on the planet that charges for sponsored logs. Very compassion, much caring.


----------



## d00bzilla

Guys please move this convo to my thread I started in the suggestion section. We will receive more attention by posting there.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1481003/mod-of-the-month


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> The more I see the small water cool builds the more I just love them


Agreed, anyone can get a 900D and make a good looking build, you can fit anything you want in it. Small builds require more thought and ingenuity to make them work and still look good.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'm missing an HWL GTX 360 & 240!!!


Oha...those a little enough items to be missing...


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> That went well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh BTW haven't has any issues running 1/2" copper piping with the EK 12/16mm fittings. Mind you, I applied a tiny bit of water on the o-rings prior to installing the pipe, as required. The pipe is also polished, which might also help keeping it watertight. Will probably polish it some more and clear coat it when I install the CPU block.


wait, i'm confused. the 12/16mm fittings i find on frozencpu are merely an "adapter" with a female head. am i missing something here?

can you link me to these fittings? and are you sure you aren't using the plan 12mm fittings?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Oha...those a little enough items to be missing...


Those rads sold out almost instantly, I wouldn't be surprised if the system wasn't able to keep up with the death count. I would guess it doesn't void the item from the digital inventory until the sale is final.


----------



## siffonen

What is a good choice to connect d5 pumpt straight to bottom of reservoir? Just like EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ but with a longer reservoir.
One choice is to buy EK-D5 X-RES 100 CSQ and a longer revervoir tube but it makes extra costs.
I`m going to change my water cooling loop, so i run my tubing as much as possible behind mb tray by using pass-through fittings etc.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Those rads sold out almost instantly, I wouldn't be surprised if the system wasn't able to keep up with the death count. I would guess it doesn't void the item from the digital inventory until the sale is final.


Yeah, I was trying to grab two of the HWL 360 rads, but dang did they get hit fast.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> What is a good choice to connect d5 pumpt straight to bottom of reservoir? Just like EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ but with a longer reservoir.
> One choice is to buy EK-D5 X-RES 100 CSQ and a longer revervoir tube but it makes extra costs.
> I`m going to change my water cooling loop, so i run my tubing as much as possible behind mb tray by using pass-through fittings etc.


something like this is what I like to use. Allows me to position the reservoir in any way I like. I'm also a Rotary fanboy, using way more than I need to.


----------



## siffonen

I dont like how my current reservoir is connected to pump. Imo best looking is reservoir and pump in one unit, no with piece of tube between them. Short and straight tube would ok also, but i need also a longer reservoir because current is too short for 900d.
Probably doing these mods in summer when i can paint mine case white, it is still too cold in Finland right now

Lähetetty minun HTC One laitteesta Tapatalkilla


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I dont like how my current reservoir is connected to pump. Imo best looking is reservoir and pump in one unit, no with piece of tube between them. Short and straight tube would ok also, but i need also a longer reservoir because current is too short for 900d.
> Probably doing these mods in summer when i can paint mine case white, it is still too cold in Finland right now
> 
> Lähetetty minun HTC One laitteesta Tapatalkilla


Love Finland. I was in Helsinki and iisalmi last summer visiting relatives my family lost touch with when my great grandfather and grandmother immigrated to canada. Amazing country and amazingly friendly people.

As far as your res/pump goes check out the one I just ordered. The gold fittings don't come with it though, i put those there.


----------



## siffonen

Thats exactly what was looking for, where did you ordered it?

Lähetetty minun HTC One laitteesta Tapatalkilla


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> That went well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh BTW haven't has any issues running 1/2" copper piping with the EK 12/16mm fittings. Mind you, I applied a tiny bit of water on the o-rings prior to installing the pipe, as required. The pipe is also polished, which might also help keeping it watertight. Will probably polish it some more and clear coat it when I install the CPU block.


Fyi:

3/8" ~9.5mm
1/2" ~12.7mm
5/8" ~15.88mm

When doing doing hard acrylic or copper, its recommended not to mix imperial w/ metric as these subtle differences can cause damage or leaks.

For imperial hard fittings: Primochill, Monsoon, MettleAir, and custom ones like *Rocket science* (chap from NZ makes 1/2" od fittings similar to BP C47s, forgot the name but I'm sure someone will come up with it).

Metric: Bitspower, EK, E22, Phobya, etc.



Spoiler: RocketScience 1/2



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> I believe these are the other 12.7mm fittings for copper you are talking about....
> 
> http://www.rocketscience.mx/shop/


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fyi:
> 
> 3/8" ~9.5mm
> 1/2" ~12.7mm
> 5/8" ~15.88mm
> 
> When doing doing hard acrylic or copper, its recommended not to mix imperial w/ metric as these subtle differences can cause damage or leaks.
> 
> For imperial hard fittings: Primochill, Monsoon, MettleAir, and custom (chap from NZ makes 1/2" od fittings similar to BP C47s, forgot the name but I'm sure someone will come up with it).
> 
> Metric: Bitspower, EK, E22, Phobya, etc.


I believe these are the other 12.7mm fittings for copper you are talking about....

http://www.rocketscience.mx/shop/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> I believe these are the other 12.7mm fittings for copper you are talking about....
> 
> http://www.rocketscience.mx/shop/


Awesome, thank you sir







+1


----------



## waveaddict

No worries,wish they came in other colors though.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> No worries,wish they came in other colors though.


RE: Rocket Science fittings colours...
Black will be available







(black nickel plating didn't meet quality control on last batch)
and possibly/maybe unfinished brass will get released also ??


----------



## wermad

Brass for those Asus gold heatsink boards


----------



## waveaddict

Exactly what I was thinking


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Brass for those Asus gold heatsink boards


I got some white Primochill fittings and a little spray paint later...


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> wait, i'm confused. the 12/16mm fittings i find on frozencpu are merely an "adapter" with a female head. am i missing something here?
> 
> can you link me to these fittings? and are you sure you aren't using the plan 12mm fittings?


I used these: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-hd-adapter-1216mm-male-black-nickel/



They are technically made for 12mm ID/16mm OD acrylic tubing, but I used what's common around here, i.e. 1/2" copper piping, which is 0,625" OD (or 15,875mm). It works well for me so far. Applying clear coat on the copper pipe would probably bring the OD even closer to 16mm.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> RE: Rocket Science fittings colours...
> Black will be available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (black nickel plating didn't meet quality control on last batch)
> and possibly/maybe unfinished brass will get released also ??


Would've gotten those, if black nickel were available








Also, EK CSQ fittings in black seem out of stock everywhere, had to get something else. Why so unlucky?


----------



## Jakewat

Anyone had much experience with a Black Ice SR1 560. There is one going real cheap near me and was wondering what It would be worth bidding on it, being two years old and in great condition. Also would it fit in the basement of a TJ07?


----------



## VSG

I don't think a 560 can fit inside the TJ-07 honestly. It is 565mm deep so if you account for the case material, there isn't enough room in there.


----------



## Jakewat

I may just buy it anyway, if i can score it for under $50 NZ then that is a pretty good deal. May just use it for testing etc lol


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Anyone had much experience with a Black Ice SR1 560. There is one going real cheap near me and was wondering what It would be worth bidding on it, being two years old and in great condition. Also would it fit in the basement of a TJ07?


Biggest rad for the basement of a TJ07 is a 480, and it barely fits.........


----------



## aerial

Some would say, 480 fits there perfectly.


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

ft02 fully watercooled (cpu, gpu, mobo, ram), 540 + 120 rad, dual pumps & acrylic tubing


----------



## AcidShAwk

New to the forum. my mining rig. unnecessary but who cares









4x7970 dual psu.
koolance blocks, 4x120mm, cougar vortex fans pulling, ice dragon fluid.


----------



## CrSt3r

Man .. you guys dont pay your electricity bills ?! xD

Over here i could not afford such insanity









Its like 28Cents/kWh ....


----------



## Nephalem

Anyone had experience with the XSPC GTX 770 VGA blocks? I like the looks of them and they are copper but I was wondering what the quality was like on them I would use EK but I don't really have much choice when it comes to watercooling parts dealers in Australia, and America is to damned dear to get shipped.


----------



## AcidShAwk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> Man .. you guys dont pay your electricity bills ?! xD
> 
> Over here i could not afford such insanity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its like 28Cents/kWh ....


10 cents / kWh avg.

7.2 cents / kWh from 7pm to 7am.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nephalem*
> 
> Anyone had experience with the XSPC GTX 770 VGA blocks? I like the looks of them and they are copper but I was wondering what the quality was like on them I would use EK but I don't really have much choice when it comes to watercooling parts dealers in Australia, and America is to damned dear to get shipped.


I have the 780/titan version and never had a problem,it does what its meant to do....


----------



## jpetrach

sorry about the pics no DSLR. So this is where I am at with my new hadron loop. Parts seem well put together.
the rad I was talking about with copper tube raped in aluminum.



I set up push pull quiet fans on the outside np15's I think, and fans I have laying around a corsair and next.


I flipped the block over after I took the pic.

Velcro to fix the pump res and to lower vibration transfer.


Trying to decide how to run the lines.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't think a 560 can fit inside the TJ-07 honestly. It is 565mm deep so if you account for the case material, there isn't enough room in there.


Awesome radiator but it can fit in pretty much only a TJ11.


----------



## VSG

As far as Silverstone cases go, yes. I am sure you meant that.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidShAwk*
> 
> 
> 
> New to the forum. my mining rig. unnecessary but who cares
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4x7970 dual psu.
> koolance blocks, 4x120mm, cougar vortex fans pulling, ice dragon fluid.


you know that have USB ASIC's that burn 3 gh/s for 60$ on amazon and they use a lot less juice.
http://www.amazon.com/ASICMiner-Block-Erupter-USB-Sapphire/dp/B00CUJT7TO

the only reason I mention it is because I tired of paying inflated prices because of you people.


----------



## Blatsz32

just wondering if anyone knew where I can buy the attchement for a copper block. Not sure what the name is, but what I have is an extra copper block. It goes to an EK set up. Should I contact EK, do they sell that piece only?


----------



## AcidShAwk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> you know that have USB ASIC's that burn 3 gh/s for 60$ on amazon and they use a lot less juice.
> http://www.amazon.com/ASICMiner-Block-Erupter-USB-Sapphire/dp/B00CUJT7TO
> 
> the only reason I mention it is because I tired of paying inflated prices because of you people.


uhhh.. asic scrypt miners only just came out.. I do switch between vertcoin and a multipool but you know what.. its still profitable. as soon scrypt asics flood the market.. ill switch permanently to scryptn coins


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidShAwk*
> 
> uhhh.. asic scrypt miners only just came out.. I do switch between vertcoin and a multipool but you know what.. its still profitable. as soon scrypt asics flood the market.. ill switch permanently to scryptn coins


don't forget to list those cards for sale when you do. water blocks included.


----------



## AcidShAwk

lol think ill just grab 4 monitors and go for quad crossfire when mining ultimately becomes useless.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> 
> just wondering if anyone knew where I can buy the attchement for a copper block. Not sure what the name is, but what I have is an extra copper block. It goes to an EK set up. Should I contact EK, do they sell that piece only?


this is for Titan/780 EK-FC-SE... They are going to tell you "Sorry out of stock!" When you ask if a 780Ti top will fit they won't answer.

I have two of them lying around from a joint botched RMA (mine and EKs fault)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As far as Silverstone cases go, yes. I am sure you meant that.


Sorry i missed the STH10. I don't think there are any others.


----------



## Blatsz32

Ty Skupples. I guess I have a paper weight then. I'll just have to buy a new block. I currently have a good one on my MSI 780TF, but I need to cool the other one. Not that it needs it, it would just look better.

My current set up consists of 2 rads, one 120mm and one 240mm. I am cooling one GPU and one CPU, and my temps are 32c idle on GPU, and 32c-40c on my CPU ( clocked at 4.6- 3770k) at idle. If i decide to cool my second card would another rad be suggested and if "yes" will a 120mm rad be sufficient?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







thanks again Skupples ( your answer down below). +rep


----------



## skupples

I would venture to guess your temps would be only slightly higher maybe 2-5C. Another 120 could help if you push enough air through it.


----------



## jpetrach

is there a full block for sapphire r9 270x I looked couldn't find one?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> is there a full block for sapphire r9 270x I looked couldn't find one?


Have you check Cooling Configurator?


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Have you check Cooling Configurator?


it tells me that I have to use a GPU block and passive and that's what I have now.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> it tells me that I have to use a generic block


That card probably uses a non-reference PCB then. EK usually has a pretty good selection of blocks for non-reference cards, so if they don't offer one for that particular card, chances are nobody makes one


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> it tells me that I have to use a generic block
> 
> 
> 
> That card probably uses a non-reference PCB then. EK usually has a pretty good selection of blocks for non-reference cards, so if they don't offer one for that particular card, chances are nobody makes one
Click to expand...

Try Liquid Extasy,they make non ref block also.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Try Liquid Extasy,they make non ref block also.


I have heard of a few horror stories about these guys.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Try Liquid Extasy,they make non ref block also.
> 
> 
> 
> I have heard of a few horror stories about these guys.
Click to expand...

They not top of the pile but the blocks are ok.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Guess I belong here after yesterday...


----------



## Puck

Does it count if its assisted water?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Does it count if its assisted water?


At first glance I thought that was a different "-uck" on the GPU bracket lol


----------



## kcuestag

I'm running tight with 420mm + 240mm on my Switch 810, now that my room is hitting ~30ºC my CPU hits around 67-70ºC and my GPU's get as hot as ~55ºC.

Would a 120mm in the rear do anything? Or should I go with a big external rad?









New case is not an option, I have around 100-150€ to spend.


----------



## morencyam

Are those temps with normal gaming usage or with stress testing? I'd personally be happy with those temps and wouldn't bother adding more radiators, especially if they would have to be external. The additional 120mm radiator wouldn't hurt, though I doubt you'd see more than a 1-2ºC drop


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

If my place was getting to 30C or higher I'd probably be looking to see what kind of window unit AC I could get for that 100-150€ instead of trying to shoehorn another rad, but that's just me.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If my place was getting to 30C or higher I'd probably be looking to see what kind of window unit AC I could get for that 100-150€ instead of trying to shoehorn another rad, but that's just me.


My thoughts as well. I'd rather not sweat sitting at my PC than adding another rad to possibly drop temps a few degrees


----------



## skupples

How would adding another rad bring your room temps down exactly?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Are those temps with normal gaming usage or with stress testing? I'd personally be happy with those temps and wouldn't bother adding more radiators, especially if they would have to be external. The additional 120mm radiator wouldn't hurt, though I doubt you'd see more than a 1-2ºC drop


Those are on Battlefield 4, which I'd say is pretty stressful on the GPU's and CPU (I'm not running Mantle







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If my place was getting to 30C or higher I'd probably be looking to see what kind of window unit AC I could get for that 100-150€ instead of trying to shoehorn another rad, but that's just me.


I do have an AC unit, but with electricity getting over 0.24€ per KW/h, I can't really use it much, and it's only April, I'm only supposed to use it a bit in summer.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> How would adding another rad bring your room temps down exactly?


Who said bring down room temperature? I was talking about computer temperature.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> How would adding another rad bring your room temps down exactly?


lol I meant I would rather spend the money on a window AC unit to have a lower room temp than adding another radiator to possibly drop temps slightly


----------



## sinnedone

lol people talk about ac like electricity is cheap. When the difference is 100 dollars a month between 80 degrees Fahrenheit compared to 78 degrees on your home thermostat, its not that cut and dry.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> lol people talk about ac like electricity is cheap. When the difference is 100 dollars a month between 80 degrees Fahrenheit compared to 78 degrees on your home thermostat, its not that cut and dry.


Well here in Spain it would be a difference, having the room from 30ºC down to 22-24ºC would be much nicer, but the electricity bill would be an extra 150-200€ per month, wish we had US electricity pricing.


----------



## IT Diva

Here in the Caribbean, even though we're a US territory, we currently pay $.55 per KW/H, which is about the highest of any of the territories.

And on top of the high cost, it goes out about once a week.

The thought of paying even just half of that is like a fantasy.

Darlene


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here in the Caribbean, even though we're a US territory, we currently pay $.55 per KW/H, which is about the highest of any of the territories.
> 
> And on top of the high cost, it goes out about once a week.
> 
> The thought of paying even just half of that is like a fantasy.
> 
> Darlene


That sucks!!! Here in Indiana its .12 per KW/H


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah I definitely don't really factor in electricity costs too much. That sucks to have to pay that much. Guess we're pretty spoiled here at just under 0.09 cents KW/H. We do have terrible voltage fluctuations, surges & brownouts, and frequent outages though. Every computer & tv in the house, even the cordless phone & answering machine has to be connected to an AVR UPS or its life will be very very short.


----------



## Dortheleus

Well here up north in Québec, we pay 0,08/KWH and we complain about high prices.


----------



## kizwan

Here in Malaysia, we don't get flat rate. 0.07 cents per kW/h for first 200kW/h, 0.10 cents per kW/h for another 100kW/h & 0.16 cents per kW/h for next 100kW/h.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Those are on Battlefield 4, which I'd say is pretty stressful on the GPU's and CPU (I'm not running Mantle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> I do have an AC unit, but with electricity getting over 0.24€ per KW/h, I can't really use it much, and it's only April, I'm only supposed to use it a bit in summer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who said bring down room temperature? I was talking about computer temperature.


Is that with vsync on or off,i was getting similar temps in summer here with vsync off (once enabled it kept the temps in check,somewhat)....At the time the ambient temps ran anywhere between 28-35c,metro last light does the same as BF4 for me (just glad its autumn now and winter is a month and a half away)....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here in the Caribbean, even though we're a US territory, we currently pay $.55 per KW/H, which is about the highest of any of the territories.
> 
> And on top of the high cost, it goes out about once a week.
> 
> The thought of paying even just half of that is like a fantasy.
> 
> Darlene


I can understand the power cuts in the caribbean (combined with hot weather) fair to say most in the caribbean are use to it,even worst when it was hurricane season,which will be soon....What part of the caribbean are you based....?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Is that with vsync on or off,i was getting similar temps in summer here with vsync off (once enabled it kept the temps in check)....At the time the temps ran anywhere between 28-35c,metro last light does the same as BF4 for me (just glad its autumn now and winter is a month and a half away)....
> I can understand the power cuts in the caribbean (combined with hot weather) fair to say most in the caribbean are use to it,even worst when it was hurricane season,which will be soon....What part of the caribbean are you based....?


That's with frame limited at 60fps but it's similar to vsync off as im running at 1440p fully maxed so cards are stressed almost at 99% many times.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]Yeah I definitely don't really factor in electricity costs too much. That sucks to have to pay that much. Guess we're pretty spoiled here at just under 0.09 cents KW/H. We do have terrible voltage fluctuations, surges & brownouts, and frequent outages though. Every computer & tv in the house, even the cordless phone & answering machine has to be connected to an AVR UPS or its life will be very very short.


We have a whole house Surge protector due to our less than stellar "Florida Power & Light" monopoly. It goes onto the meter where power comes into the house. It costs $1 a month.


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question for you guys about spliiter pcbs for all your rad fans.

Is it possible to send nine 3 pin fans to a splitter pcb to get powered by the power supply yet controlled by a fan controller?

I'm trying to plan some things out and these splitter pcb's look like the simply all connect to a power supply without having any control. IS this correct?


----------



## kpoeticg

No that's not possible. 3Pin fans are Voltage Controlled. Wherever the voltage is coming from is controlling the fans. You could mod all the fans to like 5v or 7v. If you want manual control tho, the fan controller has to supply the voltage

None of that applies to 4Pin PWM fans


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question for you guys about spliiter pcbs for all your rad fans.
> 
> Is it possible to send nine 3 pin fans to a splitter pcb to get powered by the power supply yet controlled by a fan controller?
> 
> I'm trying to plan some things out and these splitter pcb's look like the simply all connect to a power supply without having any control. IS this correct?


I wouldn't off of one splitter PCB, to me it seems like to big of a power draw for a single 3 pin. I've split my 15 fan configuration across 4 splitters, all rigged up to a Bitspower X-Station. I typically advise that as you can down volt the fans at either 5 or 7V, and have extra molex ports.

-Zepp


----------



## sinnedone

ah ok, thanks guys.

I think I was getting confused between the pwm splitter pcb's and the 3 pin fan pcb's. Now the goal to find a fan controller that can handle all the fans and be controlled/programed via os.


----------



## kpoeticg

Sunbeam makes a controller that translates the mobo's PWM signal into a VC for 3Pin fans

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=30058


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Sorry i missed the STH10. I don't think there are any others.




I am sure there are other cases from Mountain Mods, CaseLabs and Little Devil that will fit a 560mm rad natively but figured this makes the most point


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sunbeam makes a controller that translates the mobo's PWM signal into a VC for 3Pin fans
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=30058


I wonder if this will work without the front panel/knobs installed.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> I wonder if this will work without the front panel/knobs installed.


I'm pretty sure it would. There's a manual and auto mode. Auto mode is controlled by the mobo's PWM. Manual is controlled by the knobs

I've never used or read a review on the controller so i'm not vouching for it or anything. Seems good from the description tho


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure there are other cases from Mountain Mods, CaseLabs and Little Devil that will fit a 560mm rad natively but figured this makes the most point


Forgot about the huge ass Case Labs case. But most of their cases cant accept one. No Little Devil can. AFAIK no MM can either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it would. There's a manual and auto mode. Auto mode is controlled by the mobo's PWM. Manual is controlled by the knobs
> 
> I've never used or read a review on the controller so i'm not vouching for it or anything. Seems good from the description tho


I mean without it connected. If so it would be awesome. I hate external 5.25 or 3.5" devices.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Forgot about the huge ass Case Labs case. But most of their cases cant accept one. No Little Devil can. AFAIK no MM can either.


Weird, I would have thought there would be more than 3 cases that could do this. Oh well, it makes things easier I suppose!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here in the Caribbean, even though we're a US territory, we currently pay $.55 per KW/H, which is about the highest of any of the territories.
> 
> And on top of the high cost, it goes out about once a week.
> 
> The thought of paying even just half of that is like a fantasy.
> 
> Darlene


I mean, if I was in the Caribbean, I don't think I'd want to be inside on my computer much anyways lol


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here in the Caribbean, even though we're a US territory, we currently pay $.55 per KW/H, which is about the highest of any of the territories.
> 
> And on top of the high cost, it goes out about once a week.
> 
> The thought of paying even just half of that is like a fantasy.
> 
> Darlene


Dang, and I thought Cali's rate was high. Though, I do miss Alabama's rate, and the fact the electricity only ever went out during extremely bad thunderstorms caused by hurricanes. Seems out here in Cali the power goes out during the most oddest times. Though, it probably because most places around here keep it ridiculous cold inside compared to outside Spring and Summer temps. I just don't get why it has to be 65F inside a dang building when it only 80F outside. Than again, I consider anything below 75F cold.







To dang use to Alabama 115F with 80+ humidity.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Dang, and I thought Cali's rate was high. Though, I do miss Alabama's rate, and the fact the electricity only ever went out during extremely bad thunderstorms caused by hurricanes. Seems out here in Cali the power goes out during the most oddest times. Though, it probably because most places around here keep it ridiculous cold inside compared to outside Spring and Summer temps. I just don't get why it has to be 65F inside a dang building when it only 80F outside. Than again, I consider anything below 75F cold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To dang use to Alabama 115F with 80+ humidity.


You'd hate it up here then... Six to eight months of the year we're below zero







....And I wear shorts when windchills are above 23F or so. Yes I said ~SHORTS~. Then again, I'm just a crazy delivery driver









On the current topic of power costs, I think I pay about $0.085 per kWh through Epcor. I used to be with Enmax, and raw electricity was indeed cheaper ($0.07/kWh fixed rate), but for the same amount of power usage the bill was usually $45-50 CAD ~MORE~ than an equivalent amount of electricity from Epcor thanks to Enmax tacking on an insane amount of fees (like... 70% of my bills were admin fees!)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Awesome radiator but it can fit in pretty much only a TJ11.


Yep this is true (as far as SS cases go). I have a HWL GTX 560 rad in my TJ11 so I can vouch that it easily fits in that but the TJ07 is too small...


----------



## sinnedone

HAs anyone purchase these newer Bitspower fittings?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39725

I just want to know if they have 2 o rings per side?

I'm trying to figure out some tight 90 degree bends and it looks like these might work better than a 90 bend with 2 c47 fittings as they seem to be more compact.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> HAs anyone purchase these newer Bitspower fittings?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39725
> 
> I just want to know if they have 2 o rings per side?
> 
> I'm trying to figure out some tight 90 degree bends and it looks like these might work better than a 90 bend with 2 c47 fittings as they seem to be more compact.


My issue with those new fittings is that they hang over the edge of the other adapters (as you can see in the picture in your link), whereas the C47's are flush with all of the other Bitspower fittings. Here's a config I posted previously I'm currently experimenting with:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Slightly larger than what you posted, but it just looks cleaner when the C47's run flush (IMO)


----------



## sinnedone

I definitely agree with you about looking cleaner. Those new ones seem a little more compact and still use 2 or rings. Where I would use them they would not be visible. The parts that are visible I would definitely use c47's though. Like you said, aesthetically they just look cleaner than the slight bulge on the newer ones.

Jameswalt1 do you think you could get a bend just as tight as the fittings you just posted by bending the acrylic?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I definitely agree with you about looking cleaner. Those new ones seem a little more compact and still use 2 or rings. Where I would use them they would not be visible. The parts that are visible I would definitely use c47's though. Like you said, aesthetically they just look cleaner than the slight bulge on the newer ones.
> 
> Jameswalt1 do you think you could get a bend just as tight as the fittings you just posted by bending the acrylic?


90's are a little tricky with 12mm/10mm tube but not impossible. It has to be perfect or it looks terrible, make sure you use a jig or the 13mm Monsoon kit.

Also no, the actual angle will not be quite as tight.


----------



## Jimhans1

So, I get a reply from JabTech about my missing radiators. Was told that, with a shipping weight of 5lb, that it showed the whole order was shipped. But, my postal scale shows that a single GTX240 in its package is 2lb, 15 5/8oz, and there should have been 2, and a GTX360, which I assume would weigh more than a 240, the package should have been at least 9lb by my math. WTH?????? I've sent a reply to them, we will see.


----------



## skupples

Warm up that PayPal/Charge back machine. I'm getting ready to do the same thing if they don't reimburse the items i'm sending back to them tomorrow. He tried to get me to place a second order before even getting a refund "These items are going quick, you better place a second order to secure what you want!" no sorry buddy. What you need to do is pay for my return shipping & then pay for the package with the correct contents to be shipped out. You know... Like PPC or FCPU would do...


----------



## Jimhans1

Yeah, I'm gonna wait for his reply tomorrow. If he doesn't want to send me my missing stuff, hello PayPal.


----------



## VSG

Darn I am sorry about this, but hopefully he comes through. Jab tech has one of the good underdogs in this industry so far.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Forgot about the huge ass Case Labs case. But most of their cases cant accept one. No Little Devil can. AFAIK no MM can either.
> I mean without it connected. If so it would be awesome. I hate external 5.25 or 3.5" devices.


Just because I love beating dead horses, and talking about how awesome Case Labs is







:

The SMH10 can as well, mine has the Coolgate 560mm with 4 Cougar fans installed opposite a Coolgate 280mm with another two Cougar fans.


----------



## Neo Zuko

CaseLabs 4 Life!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here in the Caribbean, even though we're a US territory, we currently pay $.55 per KW/H, which is about the highest of any of the territories.
> 
> And on top of the high cost, it goes out about once a week.
> 
> The thought of paying even just half of that is like a fantasy.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> *I mean, if I was in the Caribbean, I don't think I'd want to be inside on my computer much anyways* lol
Click to expand...

Yes, I can really concur with that sentiment . . . . .

I actually came down here to be a semi retired dive bum . . . . .

Then found out it's damn expensive to live here . . and that dive bums have no money . . .

Fortunately, I found a job before I starved to death.









So while water cooling is great, . . . .

I've since found a fondness for air cooling as well:











Darlene


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> 
> just wondering if anyone knew where I can buy the attchement for a copper block. Not sure what the name is, but what I have is an extra copper block. It goes to an EK set up. Should I contact EK, do they sell that piece only?


If you score a cheap, EK Titan block, you can swap the plates to have matching copper blocks









Otherwise, you will have to buy a new block from EK to get that top.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Harley.....urgh.....I won't be swapping my ZXR 750 H2 anytime soon...


----------



## jpetrach

Thank you!
To every one here who have inspired me to make something i never though i could do. It started with my laptop (HP DV6 overclocked to 3.8) cooking it self because i wanted to play battlefield. So i set out to build my own computer Because the cookie cutter boxes sold at best buy had things i didn't want or need+costed more to. then i found a corsair h100 refurbished on amazon cyber Monday for 50.00$ after that i was hooked.




I built my own test bench and i cut that thing up almost 4 days later. then i found you guys! with all the Shinny parts and excellent photography skills (LOWFAT) I saw things through the different forums would have never come up with on my own. I needed a computer that could travel with me. so small was necessary. I also discovered that sometimes you cant cheap out and there is a part out there that's a lot better then the one you made.
thank you for teaching me to Build, MOD, and Sleeve.

This i believe is my finished product from start to finish.










Again thank you and i hope one day i will have 100 cougar fans, or the patients of some of our fellow members. I know that there are flaws in layout and cabling and case design but i have learned so much i hope i to can build just to build. +1 rep to everyone of the senior staff.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You are very welcome,im glad you found everything you needed to know here.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Harley.....urgh.....I won't be swapping my ZXR 750 H2 anytime soon...


That explains why your builds look so good. You get a long time to think when you're out for a short ride lol.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, I can really concur with that sentiment . . . . .
> 
> I actually came down here to be a semi retired dive bum . . . . .
> 
> Then found out it's damn expensive to live here . . and that dive bums have no money . . .
> 
> Fortunately, I found a job before I starved to death.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So while water cooling is great, . . . .
> 
> I've since found a fondness for air cooling as well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I'm so fond of watercooling, I even watercool at work. Our Spot Welder with the watercooling unit


----------



## wermad

any blocks announced for 295x2?


----------



## morencyam

Not even a month completed and you are already thinking upgrades? Sounds about right


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not even a month completed and you are already thinking upgrades? Sounds about right


Helping a mate plan a rig and wants a 295x2 with custom wc. The hybrid system is no bueno for those wanting a custom setup









Have two of these in my radar for future upgrades since they have four m-displayports. Price is too high for me right now so it I won't blow this money now. Maybe next tax return if amd allows 4k Eyefinity as well


----------



## VSG

EK is making one, they pretty much confirmed it.


----------



## aaroc

I'm concerned that the heat of the fans can affect my lcd monitor. I will have an open Bench on the left of my monitor on the same table. If I have the pull push to the outside the hot air will reach the monitor. If I have the pull push to the inside I will point the hot air to the inside (PSU, Pump. others). do you think that option B is not a good one? Do I need to put the open bench far away from the monitor, how far? My current cables do not allow to put the PC far away from the monitor, I will have to buy longer ones. Pull push to the inside is nicer looking too.







Thanks!

Option A)


Option B)


----------



## skupples

I don't think you have anything to worry about when it comes to pumping radiator wash into the direction of your monitor. Would be a different story if it was LN2 wash or something.

Iv'e been blasting radiator wash into my left monitor for over a year now, it still looks just like the other two.


----------



## Forceman

If it is open bench, why not just set all the fans to blow in the same direction (to the left in your picture)? Unless the rads are really close together there shouldn't be a problem with hot air from one affecting the other, since you'll have plenty of ambient air to work with on the open bench.


----------



## ozzy1925

i also asked this question in the ek club :
which block looks better on a 290?


----------



## jpetrach

More Pictures


----------



## aerial

Added leds:


----------



## jpetrach

Looks nice


----------



## phillyd

I've been scrolling through this thread and there have been some gorgeous rigs. Great work guys!

Anyone wiser than I know of a mounting/hiding solution for a Swiftech MCP655 pump?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i also asked this question in the ek club :
> which block looks better on a 290?


As with all things, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. In my case, I went with this one for my 290x. with the backplate.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I've been scrolling through this thread and there have been some gorgeous rigs. Great work guys!
> 
> Anyone wiser than I know of a mounting/hiding solution for a Swiftech MCP655 pump?


More information please,you are a bit vague.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i also asked this question in the ek club :
> which block looks better on a 290?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Middle one for sure, with the clean plexi top, it's the one I have one my pair of R9 290's too!


----------



## ozzy1925

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> As with all things, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. In my case, I went with this one for my 290x. with the backplate.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Middle one for sure, with the clean plexi top, it's the one I have one my pair of R9 290's too!


i almost finished buying watercooling parts for my loop which is 2x gtx 680- i4770k etc.. on the other hand .I have 3x saphire 290 trix oc cards which i use for mining. But as you know summer is coming and it wil be very hot here and i decide to replace my gtx 680s with the 290s but as i read even removing heatsink for checking tim voids the warranty for saphire cards.So i am really worried if it worth the trouble or not


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> false
> 
> i almost finished buying watercooling parts for my loop which is 2x gtx 680- i4770k etc.. on the other hand .I have 3x saphire 290 trix oc cards which i use for mining. But as you know summer is coming and it wil be very hot here and i decide to replace my gtx 680s with the 290s but as i read even removing heatsink for checking tim voids the warranty for saphire cards.So i am really worried if it worth the trouble or not


As long as you keep the cooler, thermal pads and the screws in good condition, no one will ever notice that you watercooled them if you ever need to RMA your card.









I RMA'd Sapphire cards before which have been watercooled and they never gave me an issue with the warranty.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> false
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> As with all things, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. In my case, I went with this one for my 290x. with the backplate.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Middle one for sure, with the clean plexi top, it's the one I have one my pair of R9 290's too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i almost finished buying watercooling parts for my loop which is 2x gtx 680- i4770k etc.. on the other hand .I have 3x saphire 290 trix oc cards which i use for mining. But as you know summer is coming and it wil be very hot here and i decide to replace my gtx 680s with the 290s but as i read even removing heatsink for checking tim voids the warranty for saphire cards.So i am really worried if it worth the trouble or not
Click to expand...

Only if you tell them.....
Keep information supplied to a minimum when RMA'ing anything water cooled.....unless its EVGA,they don't mind blocks being fitted.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> As long as you keep the cooler, thermal pads and the screws in good condition, no one will ever notice that you watercooled them if you ever need to RMA your card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I RMA'd Sapphire cards before which have been watercooled and they never gave me an issue with the warranty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Only if you tell them.....
> Keep information supplied to a minimum when RMA'ing anything water cooled.....unless its EVGA,they don't mind blocks being fitted.


i will try to be gentle as i can but do they check the screws if they have marks on them?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More information please,you are a bit vague.


I've got a Switch 810 with a FrozenQ 250ml Helix res, and in the bottom I have a Monsta 240 in p/p. I want to find a place to mount and hide or decorate the pump below the res.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i will try to be gentle as i can but do they check the screws if they have marks on them?


Just make sure they're not literally broken, a small mark shouldn't matter, I've RMA'd a motherboard that had *missing* screws (In the heatsinks) and they never noticed.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I've got a Switch 810 with a FrozenQ 250ml Helix res, and in the bottom I have a Monsta 240 in p/p. I want to find a place to mount and hide or decorate the pump below the res.


I thought frozen made a pump top for that pump that bolted on to their reservoirs? Would a pump top/res mount combo hide/disguise it enough for you or are you looking for something completely different?

Worse comes to worse you can buy dress up kits for it and display it. lol that's what I'm planning on doing with my pump. (mines a ddc though)


----------



## phillyd

They have one for their bay res but not the tube reservoirs to my knowledge.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> false
> 
> i almost finished buying watercooling parts for my loop which is 2x gtx 680- i4770k etc.. on the other hand .I have 3x saphire 290 trix oc cards which i use for mining. But as you know summer is coming and it wil be very hot here and i decide to replace my gtx 680s with the 290s but as i read even removing heatsink for checking tim voids the warranty for saphire cards.So i am really worried if it worth the trouble or not


As mentioned, it is no problem.

Just watch out for warranty stickers. My r9 280x had a sticker on the screws holding the air cooler. I simply used my heatgun to get it off and put it on a piece of parchment paper. Nobody will notice.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> They have one for their bay res but not the tube reservoirs to my knowledge.


Bitspower mod kit and a male to male fitting,job done.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower mod kit and a male to male fitting,job done.


I do love the look of the mod kits...Great idea!

EDIT: I won't have the space for the pump below the res, but a 90 degree fitting should let me mount the pump beside the res

IMO, mounting a standalone pump is the hardest part of getting a good looking water cooling loop.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i also asked this question in the ek club :
> which block looks better on a 290?


My personal favorite is all the latest nickel acetal blocks with the stainless steel plate. Love this style, one of my favorite products that we've launched.


----------



## skupples

I LOVE when your fedex doesn't leave a package, even when your online account has it automatically setup to e-sign for all packages.


----------



## DarthBaggins

As long as you don't mess things up when fitting the blocks you should have no issues rma 'ing the 290's if need be

Sent from my Nokia 925 winmo8.1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My personal favorite is all the latest nickel acetal blocks with the stainless steel plate. Love this style, one of my favorite products that we've launched.


I second this post.



So pretty.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I second this post.
> 
> 
> 
> So pretty.


That is one of the prettiest waterblocks I've seen!


----------



## Kimir

Yes, Acetal, I like.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Just make sure they're not literally broken, a small mark shouldn't matter, I've RMA'd a motherboard that had *missing* screws (In the heatsinks) and they never noticed.


thanks for the advise ihope iwont fail







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My personal favorite is all the latest nickel acetal blocks with the stainless steel plate. Love this style, one of my favorite products that we've launched.


cant decide between plexi and this









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> As mentioned, it is no problem.
> 
> Just watch out for warranty stickers. My r9 280x had a sticker on the screws holding the air cooler. I simply used my heatgun to get it off and put it on a piece of parchment paper. Nobody will notice.


i didnt see any stickers on the card


----------



## jpetrach

Hey guys thinking about doing some airflow testing with dry ice any suggestions. all I want to make sure is that I'm getting airflow over all the necessary components.


----------



## MeanBruce

Thanking Performance PCs for the amazing sleeving work. It's Bitspower Ultra-Black, I love it.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6961_zpsb4d18665.jpg.html


----------



## phillyd

We'll be getting new sleeving and cable spacers to position the grouped cables soon


----------



## Drizztly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> cant decide between plexi and this


You should go with the acetal one, it looks amazing!









I think it should also look nice when the cards sit on your black mobo


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, Acetal, I like.


Agreed!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I've got a Switch 810 with a FrozenQ 250ml Helix res, and in the bottom I have a Monsta 240 in p/p. I want to find a place to mount and hide or decorate the pump below the res.


Ek also have a nice kit for the d5 pump. Also if you go with the koolance top it comes with a nice black tube and steel cover. As for mounting you might consider the un(design) brackets or hide on the 5.25 bays perhaps?


----------



## infernoRS

How dumb (overkill doesn't equal dumb) would it be to stick a Maximus VI Gene, two 780(ti)'s and a 4770k to a Arc Mini R2 with a 360 and a 240 (XT45+UT60?). I would remove all the hard drive cages and the dvd drive cage and place one or two ssd's behind the motherboard tray instead. Would it leave any overclocking headroom? It's been some 5 years since I had anything related to watercooling, and that loop only included the processor anyways.


----------



## ozzy1925

what about cpu and ram block :clean plexı or acetal?


----------



## Roikyou

I remember people talking about issues receiving orders from jab-tech, is this still the case or any new issues? I understand they're moving, was looking at PrimoFlex Pro LRT, min order of five bucks, you can get 12 feet for that, shippings more than that but still worth is (as long as it's available as most is sold out).


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infernoRS*
> 
> How dumb (overkill doesn't equal dumb) would it be to stick a Maximus VI Gene, two 780(ti)'s and a 4770k to a Arc Mini R2 with a 360 and a 240 (XT45+UT60?). I would remove all the hard drive cages and the dvd drive cage and place one or two ssd's behind the motherboard tray instead. Would it leave any overclocking headroom? It's been some 5 years since I had anything related to watercooling, and that loop only included the processor anyways.


Not dumb at all! That's what I have - it's an awesome compact setup


----------



## paulyoung

So after a few weeks of down time, due to Mayhems coolant reacting to 2 different makes of hose, I have finally got her up and running again. My usual hose Pro lrt, has been out of stock everywhere so have had a nightmare trying to find another choice.

I started with XSPC no dice then some generic aquarium hose, that is advertised as being totally pure with no plasticisor, no dice again, so try 3 good old masterclear, fingers crossed it will hold up. The runs are just a temporary solution as the fittings are due to be changed in a week or 2.

Attempt 1 pastel yellow after 1 week.


I didn't keep any of try number 2 but it was pretty much the same result.

And today, with Masterclear and 1ltr Pastel yellow, 250ml pastel yellow concentrate, and 1ltr X1 yellow / green, just to get a more in your face yellow.







I'll throw some better pics up of the finished build tomorrow, I've just got about half of the cable management done, I'm just waiting on a 4 pin pwm cable to come to connect up the EP's fan hub. Plus, I've had titanfall here for a week and I need my gaming fix, before i go nuts, my old DV6 laptop just doesn't cut the mustard.


----------



## wermad

Pro lrt leaches so it's eol tbh. Advance should prevent this, though I find it a bit stiff compared to the older stuff. There's a plasticize thread about this .


----------



## paulyoung

I think it's the advanced I mean mate, I always get them mixed up. lol


----------



## wermad

^^^









Love the yellow btw


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pro lrt leaches so it's eol tbh. Advance should prevent this, though I find it a bit stiff compared to the older stuff. There's a plasticize thread about this .


Curious if "PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing" is the best out there in your opinion? Been using xspc for the last couple years, I've got a couple different coloring for the tubes, so I want to update all the tubing to match, thinking about going this route.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Curious if "PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing" is the best out there in your opinion? Been using xspc for the last couple years, I've got a couple different coloring for the tubes, so I want to update all the tubing to match, thinking about going this route.


As far as I've seen, the Advanced LRT is the ONLY flexible non-black (ie norprene) tubing recommended. I've used the Advanced in every soft tubed build I've done in the past 24+ months using both pastel and X1, and have had zero issues!


----------



## paulyoung

For the short time I've been water cooling I've always used Primochill, that is until a few weeks ago when they are out of stock, in my size everywhere, so I went with XSPC, and I've learnt my lesson. My mate uses it with pastel black, but it's the uv version, and it's been fine for close to a year now. From Mayhems website the Masterclear is fine with pastel, so that might be another choice. That's what I've just fitted today, so only time will tell.


----------



## wermad

With other brands/makes, its hit or miss as far as preventing plasticizing ("clouding). I've used clear Advance with mayhems yellow pastel and uv green mayhems dye. Its been a while since I was actively finding alternative options that would hold but Advance Lrt seems to be the safest option out there. I've been running plain distilled for a few months now and I have not seen any issues with the Advance Lrt tubes I've had (Atomic Green, Pearl Green, Elegant White, & Clear.)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> So after a few weeks of down time, due to Mayhems coolant reacting to 2 different makes of hose, I have finally got her up and running again. My usual hose Pro lrt, has been out of stock everywhere so have had a nightmare trying to find another choice.
> 
> I started with XSPC no dice then some generic aquarium hose, that is advertised as being totally pure with no plasticisor, no dice again, so try 3 good old masterclear, fingers crossed it will hold up. The runs are just a temporary solution as the fittings are due to be changed in a week or 2.
> 
> Attempt 1 pastel yellow after 1 week.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't keep any of try number 2 but it was pretty much the same result.
> 
> And today, with Masterclear and 1ltr Pastel yellow, 250ml pastel yellow concentrate, and 1ltr X1 yellow / green, just to get a more in your face yellow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll throw some better pics up of the finished build tomorrow, I've just got about half of the cable management done, I'm just waiting on a 4 pin pwm cable to come to connect up the EP's fan hub. Plus, I've had titanfall here for a week and I need my gaming fix, before i go nuts, my old DV6 laptop just doesn't cut the mustard.


What rads are you using (looks like Alphacool NexXxos line) and how did you prep them before filling your system? Honestly, it looks more like the fluid is reacting to crap in the rads than the tube. Advanced LRT is pretty solid and I have seen few to no issues with it. Tube reactions would produce a chalky film (plasticizer) on the tube walls and strip the fluid of color.

Specifically, the Alphacool NexXxos tend to have an issue with Pastel and require a real good flush (vinegar solution flush -> bicarb solution fulsh -> DI water flush)...otherwise the pH of the fluid can raise beyond its stable range and change colors, as it looks like from your pics. Example is red fluid turns brown.

Mayhems is releasing a system prep kit in response to these types of problems that should stabilize system pH and remove the reactants.


----------



## Sam muel

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1964196/flags/LL

Please can someone tell me what the black cable tidies are around the PSU cables? I can't think what they would be called.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ek also have a nice kit for the d5 pump. Also if you go with the koolance top it comes with a nice black tube and steel cover. As for mounting you might consider the un(design) brackets or hide on the 5.25 bays perhaps?


My bays are full and it's too high above the res but thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam muel*
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1964196/flags/LL
> 
> Please can someone tell me what the black cable tidies are around the PSU cables? I can't think what they would be called.


http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/cable-comb


----------



## paulyoung

Yea there the Alphacool nexxxos monstas mate. They have both been used before with Pastel yellow and were fine. But before using I always use a bicarb solution, then a flush with regular tap water, then I run an old aquarium pump with DI water for at least 3 hours. That was my first thought that something to do with the copper reacted, the pic I posted is of the first fail, the 2nd was more extreme than that. Hopefully the Masterclear will be OK, I can't afford to fork out another £45 for more fluid and hose, this is my 3rd lot now in 4 weeks.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam muel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1964196/flags/LL
> 
> 
> Please can someone tell me what the black cable tidies are around the PSU cables? I can't think what they would be called.


The ones on the edge of the Mobo are just standard cable management clips. The one directly in front of the CPU block is a Kobra Cable Bundler


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> Yea there the Alphacool nexxxos monstas mate. They have both been used before with Pastel yellow and were fine. But before using I always use a bicarb solution, then a flush with regular tap water, then I run an old aquarium pump with DI water for at least 3 hours. That was my first thought that something to do with the copper reacted, the pic I posted is of the first fail, the 2nd was more extreme than that. Hopefully the Masterclear will be OK, I can't afford to fork out another £45 for more fluid and hose, this is my 3rd lot now in 4 weeks.


hopefully it works out this time, good luck









if you have issues again, post in the Mayhems thread, he is pretty active in there and everything will get sorted out


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What rads are you using (looks like Alphacool NexXxos line) and how did you prep them before filling your system? Honestly, it looks more like the fluid is reacting to crap in the rads than the tube. Advanced LRT is pretty solid and I have seen few to no issues with it. Tube reactions would produce a chalky film (plasticizer) on the tube walls and strip the fluid of color.
> 
> Specifically, the Alphacool NexXxos tend to have an issue with Pastel and require a real good flush (vinegar solution flush -> bicarb solution fulsh -> DI water flush)...otherwise the pH of the fluid can raise beyond its stable range and change colors, as it looks like from your pics. Example is red fluid turns brown.
> 
> Mayhems is releasing a system prep kit in response to these types of problems that should stabilize system pH and remove the reactants.


good news. Any word on when will be available?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> good news. Any word on when will be available?


In the UK I think you can order from mayhem now. In the US, PPCs preordered a bunch and I think mayhem is shipping them out soon. I'd say they will probably be available in the next couple weeks... but that is just a guess


----------



## darwing

Thanks again for the nomination for Mod of the month of April, I have taken some High res pics, Not amazing with the camera yet, but these are a start and hopefully are good enough to display for my nomination









Build by @darwing [Build Log] Project Glacier -= GTX 780 O.C | i5-4670k O.C. | Water-Cooled | XS-PC Raystorm =-




Spoiler: Project Glacier


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam muel*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1964196/flags/LL
> 
> Please can someone tell me what the black cable tidies are around the PSU cables? I can't think what they would be called.


Those ones look like mod/smart kobra clips.


----------



## Gunderman456

*The Hawaiian Heat Wave v.2.0!*



Quickly, as compared to The Hawaiian Heat Wave v.1.0, v.2.0 comes with the addition of a 360mm radiator, one of the 240mm radiator is now mounted externally. Naturally, the loop contains more tubing, the run now cuts through the bottom of the reservoir as opposed to the top and you can see the addition of a water temp sensor. The fans are in push/pull where possible and I went from 5 fans to a total of 12 fans. The flush valve could not be added this time around as the twist lever would have bumped against the case panel. Maybe on build v.3.0!

*More pics in the build log (in sig)!*


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Those ones look like mod/smart kobra clips.


Yup, I have some myself and those are definitely Kobra clips. They work fairly well too


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam muel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1964196/flags/LL
> 
> 
> 
> Please can someone tell me what the black cable tidies are around the PSU cables? I can't think what they would be called.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Those ones look like mod/smart kobra clips.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yup, I have some myself and those are definitely Kobra clips. They work fairly well too


I 3rd this^
I own some as well.


----------



## Unownbeing

Hello, noobish question I hope someone can help me with. I am wondering if using the inlet port off of the pump block would work as a
drain. I ask because I am afraid that water will not pass through the pump when it is not spinning and drain properly.

Much Appreciated


----------



## wermad

Don't turn on your pump when you're draining the loop. Best location for a drain line/port is anywhere as low as possible to have gravity aid in draining the loop. Some folks use manual syphon pumps to drain their system. I just let gravity do its work and blow throw one end to help it drain faster. And no, i have not had any contamination by doing this







.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Hello, noobish question I hope someone can help me with. I am wondering if using the inlet port off of the pump block would work as a
> drain. I ask because I am afraid that water will not pass through the pump when it is not spinning and drain properly.
> 
> Much Appreciated


It all depends on your set up. If you plan to drain your loop with the pump off (as it sounds you will) then I'd think you'd be fine. Your pump shouldn't stop fluid from passing through when off anyhow. At least my D5 MCP655 doesn't block/trap fluid when off.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Hello, noobish question I hope someone can help me with. I am wondering if using the inlet port off of the pump block would work as a
> drain. I ask because I am afraid that water will not pass through the pump when it is not spinning and drain properly.
> 
> Much Appreciated


Yes, that would work. I used the extra OUT on my old EK D5 X-Top and it drained fine with the pump off. As wermad said, DO NOT turn the pump on while you are draining. You risk running the pump dry and damaging the pump


----------



## Unownbeing

Sweet, Thank You Sir!


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Hello, noobish question I hope someone can help me with. I am wondering if using the inlet port off of the pump block would work as a
> drain. I ask because I am afraid that water will not pass through the pump when it is not spinning and drain properly.
> 
> Much Appreciated


That's how I did it:



It drains just fine. I just remove the stop fitting on top of the res and open the ball valve.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> what about cpu and ram block :clean plexı or acetal?


Acetal


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> That's how I did it:
> 
> 
> 
> It drains just fine. I just remove the stop fitting on top of the res and open the ball valve.


My old koolance top had two inlets and I used one of them for a drain line. I'm using one of the extra ports in the res now. Its kinda of hard to squeez in a drain line when you have two UT60 560mm rads w/ p/p at the bottom of the STH10







.


----------



## Michalius

The problem with being a watercooling addict is all the hidden costs.

I budget to get a 780 Ti KPE. Card arrives, but of course I can't install it yet. Need to order a block. $130. Hmmmm, that backplate just doesn't jive with my current theme, I better get that EK one. $30. Also need to order some 10mm copper pipe for some new bends. Better make that 2 meters, just in case. $50.

$750 card turns into nearly $1000.









On the bright side, EK block, backplate, and 10mm copper pipe on the way! I will f_inally_ have my SM5 build done, only a year later!

Now, time to start saving for Haswell-E and an S5 Mercury w/ Pedestal.


----------



## Anoxy

I don't think I'd call those hidden costs.


----------



## Michalius

You're right. Ancillary I suppose.

Damnit, now this watercooling club just cost me gas money and a dinner. I looked at your location and now have an insatiable craving for Fire on the Mountain.


----------



## alfaify




----------



## skupples

Going to make Derick jelly.

Looks good!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Acetal


thanks i think will go with acetal nickel version.I heard acetal+nickel is better than nickel when it comes to corrosion.Is that true?Also if any corrosion happens to block how can i see if i buy the acetal+nickel version


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alfaify*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What kind of dye/fluid is in the "orange" loop? No offense but it looks like a transparent sewage tube.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> What kind of dye/fluid is in the "orange" loop? No offense but it looks like a transparent sewage tube.


Looks to me like mayhems orange pastel. And with my experience with it, it doesn't show up very well in photos especially when you use flash, so it may not look so much like dirty water in person lol.


----------



## alfaify

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> What kind of dye/fluid is in the "orange" loop? No offense but it looks like a transparent sewage tube.


----------



## alfaify




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please,don't post the same pics over and over.....


----------



## phillyd

Yes, and don't double post either!


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alfaify*


It is indeed an "interesting" hue. would go well with a Noctua latrine fan. I'm interested in what you mixed the Gigabyte orange concentrate with to make it go like that. I have Mayhem's pre mixed pastel orange in my loop, It's been running 24/7 for a month now through LRT tubing and it's maintained it lovely oranginess, without any of the reported problems of reacting with the tubing.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> It is indeed an "interesting" hue. would go well with a Noctua latrine fan. I'm interested in what you mixed the Gigabyte orange concentrate with to make it go like that. I have Mayhem's pre mixed pastel orange in my loop, It's been running 24/7 for a month now through LRT tubing and it's maintained it lovely oranginess, without any of the reported problems of reacting with the tubing.


Yeah, I would be worried if the colour does actually look like that. Mine is running through acrylic tubes and is a perfect orange that matches my gigabyte Z87-OC board.


----------



## Jakewat

Sorry, please delete.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Going to make Derick jelly.
> 
> Looks good!


Heh, I'll take my case(s). Orange always makes a great build though


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Heh, I'll take my case(s). Orange always makes a great build though


I couldn't agree more with that comment. apols for the shonky camera phone pic, I promise one day I will buy a decent camera. I was planning on it this month, but my baby needed a new chain and sprockets.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks i think will go with acetal nickel version.I heard acetal+nickel is better than nickel when it comes to corrosion.Is that true?Also if any corrosion happens to block how can i see if i buy the acetal+nickel version


just run proper anti-corrosive/anti-bacterial type coolant and it should never be an issue. Lots of people recommend NO silver due to the higher chance of corrosion with nickel.

Acetal is brittle and acrylic is soft.


----------



## VSG

That reminded me, Gene never got back about why they decided to make their barbs all silver for the soft and hard line fittings. I hope Jab-tech had the older stock that they sent me since I really don't want silver to be made mandatory in my loop if I want to use Monsoon fittings.


----------



## xmathx




----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xmathx*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work! Looks very clean. One question though.. Where is your PSU? lol

Edit: Never mind. I just realized you have the Carbide Air 540 case.


----------



## xmathx

The case is a Corsair Air 540







that why you don't see the PSU


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That reminded me, Gene never got back about why they decided to make their barbs all silver for the soft and hard line fittings. I hope Jab-tech had the older stock that they sent me since I really don't want silver to be made mandatory in my loop if I want to use Monsoon fittings.


@kpoeticg had a similar concern, but was informed by Monsoon that they are only silver plated brass if I remember correctly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xmathx*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like this far more than I should,very clean.


----------



## NASzi

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice work! Looks very clean. One question though.. Where is your PSU? lol
> 
> Edit: Never mind. I just realized you have the Carbide Air 540 case.






I think the real question is, where is the pump and why is the reservoir not feeding directly into it? lol Very nice rig though!


----------



## xmathx

I have a second Reservoir on the right panel of the case with the XSPC D5 pump Dual Bay Reservoir.


----------



## JLMS2010

May I please join?


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> May I please join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!!!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> May I please join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice work.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Very nice work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Very nice!!!


Thank you!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like this far more than I should,very clean.


so much so that spoilers were not used... lol jk









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> May I please join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ver nice and clean.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> May I please join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nicely done. I am pretty anal about acrylic and sleeving but I don't see anything to fault here.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like this far more than I should,very clean.
> 
> 
> 
> so much so that spoilers were not used... lol jk
Click to expand...

Im not exempt,thanks for pointing that out for me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> May I please join?


Yes.

I like it when 45's are used as well as 90's,they add a nice symmetry.
I used them for MilSpec...




You have to be very accurate,I appreciate the time you spent on those lines.

EDIT: And a double post to round off a healthy list of misdemeanors.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EDIT: And a double post to round off a healthy list of misdemeanors.


Get it together b-neg!


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> I like it when 45's are used as well as 90's,they add a nice symmetry.
> I used them for MilSpec...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have to be very accurate,I appreciate the time you spent on those lines.
> 
> EDIT: And a double post to round off a healthy list of misdemeanors.


Thank you very much. Yes, it does take time! I measured like 4 or 5 times, before bending and cutting. LOL

You have some nice work there! I like the yellow rings. I have 6 of them painted in my basement for my sons, which is next...


----------



## chino1974

Guys I am swapping out all the fams in my case from amix of NZXT FZ series and Corsair SP's to all Gentle Typhoons. For the bottom 360 rad I have 4 AP15 and 2 AP14 would the mix of the 2 types hurt performnce or noise at all ? I'm trying to get my hands on a few more AP15's but its been hard finding them.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I am swapping out all the fams in my case from amix of NZXT FZ series and Corsair SP's to all Gentle Typhoons. For the bottom 360 rad I have 4 AP15 and 2 AP14 would the mix of the 2 types hurt performnce or noise at all ? I'm trying to get my hands on a few more AP15's but its been hard finding them.


Would they be running off a fan controller? If so, you could just dial them all to roughly the same RPM. Then you're guaranteed to not have any problems. Although, with only a 400RPM difference between AP-14s and AP-15s, I think you'd still be fine at full speed


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I am swapping out all the fams in my case from amix of NZXT FZ series and Corsair SP's to all Gentle Typhoons. For the bottom 360 rad I have 4 AP15 and 2 AP14 would the mix of the 2 types hurt performnce or noise at all ? I'm trying to get my hands on a few more AP15's but its been hard finding them.


Not at all. Specially that the AP 14 is 1400 rpm while ap15 is 1800rpm if you run at maximum speed. You most likely will not use both at maximum so in the range of 1000 rpm they should perform the same. BTW I used in my previous system both models together in the same rad without any problem.


----------



## ozzy1925

of topic but, as you know i will water cool 3x 290cards .Do you guys think can a 4770k handle 3x290?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> of topic but, as you know i will water cool 3x 290cards .Do you guys think can a 4770k handle 3x290?


Yes. Even more so at high res


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes. Even more so at high res


thanks , i still cant choose which waterblock though (plexi or acetal)







.Today,i emailed ek and they told me plexi version selling more .

edit:1more question i bought 2 x d5 pump.Should i go with 2 separate loops or 1 serial loop?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> May I please join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good lookin build. Nice bends on the acrylic.


----------



## chino1974

Thanks alot for the info Morencyam and Gabrielzm rep+ for both of you. I will be using them on a Lamptron CW611 controller so I should be able to run them at the same rpm. I wish I could get all AP15 but they are hard to come by. I'm running 480,360 and 240mm rads in push-pull so I definitely need to get rid of the Corsair SP fans asap.


----------



## siffonen

Question about rads in future changes in my system.
Currently i have a EK XT360 with ap-14 push, and a Alphacool 480 ut60 in push-pull.
I`m planning on doing some modification to my system and making loop cleaner is one thing, should i just get rid off the ek 360 and only use the 480 ut60 for [email protected] 4.7Ghz 1.36V, and Gtx 680 sli with 1.21V, mainly that is 480 enough for the system or should i just keep both rads.
I was also planning on moving 360 to top of the case, so that i can hide my pump to lower part of the 900d.


----------



## wermad

Up to you. 900d has plenty of space. You're rig can do fine on the UT60 on its own. Personally, I would keep it if you decide to upgrade down the road.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Up to you. 900d has plenty of space. You're rig can do fine on the UT60 on its own. Personally, I would keep it if you decide to upgrade down the road.


I thought also that its same to keep the 360 just in case.


----------



## ozzy1925

btw performance performance pcs doing discount:
Spend $50-$250, get 7% off: "EASTER14-7"
Spend $250-500, get 8.5% off: "EASTER14-85"
Spend over $1000, get 10% off: "EASTER14-10"


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> btw performance performance pcs doing discount:
> Spend $50-$250, get 7% off: "EASTER14-7"
> Spend $250-500, get 8.5% off: "EASTER14-85"
> Spend over $1000, get 10% off: "EASTER14-10"


Of course right after I already spent all my money there, they put out better discounts


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Of course right after I already spent all my money there, they put out better discounts


That happened to me once. Placed an order in the morning and not even two hours later got the promo email. Luckily the order hadn't been processed yet so I was able to cancel the entire order, and re-order using the promo code.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That happened to me once. Placed an order in the morning and not even two hours later got the promo email. Luckily the order hadn't been processed yet so I was able to cancel the entire order, and re-order using the promo code.


Lucky you. Mine shipped like yesterday I think, lol


----------



## morencyam

It might be worth sending them an email explaining the situation. Maybe you'll get lucky and they'll refund you the difference after applying the new promo code. Or maybe a store credit at the very least?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> btw performance performance pcs doing discount:
> Spend $50-$250, get 7% off: "EASTER14-7"
> Spend $250-500, get 8.5% off: "EASTER14-85"
> Spend over $1000, get 10% off: "EASTER14-10"


Beat me to the punch







Thanks!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It might be worth sending them an email explaining the situation. Maybe you'll get lucky and they'll refund you the difference after applying the new promo code. Or maybe a store credit at the very least?


Yeah, I will give it a shot. I am a good repeat customer after all


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Of course right after I already spent all my money there, they put out better discounts


I was needing to order a few last items for my current build and saw the promo this morning. So I added the rads for next build as well, but I was in your position last november when the black friday special came right after I put in a huge order.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> of topic but, as you know i will water cool 3x 290cards .Do you guys think can a 4770k handle 3x290?


Does AMD not require a PLX chip motherboard when running 16 lane i7 w/ 3x GPUs?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Does AMD not require a PLX chip motherboard when running 16 lane i7 w/ 3x GPUs?


I think someone tested this and you're ok even at 4x 3.0 (~8x 2.0). Only thing I'm wondering is if you can still do 3-way on a Z87 board w/out PLX. I read somewhere that IB did allow but Haswell doesn't allow this anymore. Not sure if this is true.

Still, for the spacing to block and bridge/link your cards, I would get a PLX board. i highly recommend the Sniper5 or wait for the Sniper7 Z97


----------



## SeeThruHead

wrong thread


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Does AMD not require a PLX chip motherboard when running 16 lane i7 w/ 3x GPUs?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think someone tested this and you're ok even at 4x 3.0 (~8x 2.0). Only thing I'm wondering is if you can still do 3-way on a Z87 board w/out PLX. I read somewhere that IB did allow but Haswell doesn't allow this anymore. Not sure if this is true.
> 
> Still, for the spacing to block and bridge/link your cards, I would get a PLX board. i highly recommend the Sniper5 or wait for the Sniper7 Z97


so i am not able to use 3 cards together mpower max or i can run but 4x4x4 speed?


----------



## charliebrown

Got a question got a deal on revolver fittings 8 for $25 but they are blue my theme is black n red anyway to change the color or am I stuck with blue


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> so i am not able to use 3 cards together mpower max or i can run but 4x4x4 speed?


You can run 4x but I don't know if it supports 3-way crossfire. Let me find some more info. I do know you could do this w/ Z77 and IB using pcie 3.0.


----------



## Red1776

Hey gang,

I thought I would run these by you. I made some custom pump body parts.

I made a stainless steel mold and poured them with a poly resin. they are lit with an imbedded 3mm LED in each and change glow depending st what angle they are viewed from. I tried a range of fine sandpaper and a power rotary sander and found that 240 grit gave me the most desirable light diffusion They are hard to photograph but look great. These are the two visible of the three D5's that will power the Holodeck 11 cooling system for the AMD High Performance Project.


----------



## JLMS2010

I thought you could. I thought it was 8x, 4x, 4x


----------



## wermad

Only thing i could find is possibly for SLI, that it may be limited to 2-way. But some advertise it w/ 3-way Crossfire support. One thing though, you'll be blocking all the buttons and connections on the bottom slot. I have the same issue w/ my 4-way Crossfire setup too







.

If you get a PLX board, you'll have optimal spacing, an extra slot or two available (sound card?), and it won't block your headers and buttons.

How about the X-power?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can run 4x but I don't know if it supports 3-way crossfire. Let me find some more info. I do know you could do this w/ Z77 and IB using pcie 3.0.


Crossfire supports 4x and sli does not. I was trying to figure why the Asrock oc formula supports 3 way crossfire but only 2 way sli and that's the reason.
Quote:


> Mfr Part Number: Z87 MPOWER MAX
> CPU: LGA1150
> Supports 4th Generation Intel Core i7/ i5/ i3/ Pentium/ Celeron Processors
> FSB 100MHz
> Chipset: Intel Z87 Express
> Memory: 4x DDR3-3000(OC)/ 2800/ 2666/ 2600/ 2400/ 2200/ 2133/ 2000/ 1866/ 1600/ 1333/ 1066 DIMM Slots, Dual Channel, Non-ECC, Unbuffered, Max Capacity of 32GB
> Slots: 3x PCI-Express 3.0 x16 Slots (run at x16, x8/x8, or x8/x4/x4), 4x PCI-Express 2.0 x1 Slots
> Multi-Graphics: *Supports AMD 3-Way CrossFireX and NVIDIA 2-Way SLI Technology*
> SATA: 8x SATA3 Ports, Six Support RAID 0, 1, 5, 10; 1x mSATA3 Port
> Audio: Realtek ALC1150 7.1-Channel High Definition Audio CODEC
> LAN: Killer E2205 PCI-Express Gigabit Ethernet Controller; 802.11b/g/n Wireless LAN; Bluetooth 4.0
> Ports: 10x USB 3.0 Ports (6 rear, 4 via headers), 6x USB 2.0 Ports (2 rear, 4 via headers), 1x PS/2 Keyboard/Mouse Combo Port, 2x HDMI Ports, 1x DisplayPort, 1x Optical S/PDIF Out, 1x RJ45 LAN Port, Audio I/O Jacks
> Power Connector: 1x 24pin ATX Power Connector, 2x 8pin ATX 12V Power Connectors
> Form Factor: ATX, 30.4 x 24.4 cm


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Only thing i could find is possibly for SLI, that it may be limited to 2-way. But some advertise it w/ 3-way Crossfire support. One thing though, you'll be blocking all the buttons and connections on the bottom slot. I have the same issue w/ my 4-way Crossfire setup too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you get a PLX board, you'll have optimal spacing, an extra slot or two available (sound card?), and it won't block your headers and buttons.
> 
> How about the X-power?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol that still does not answer my question


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Only thing i could find is possibly for SLI, that it may be limited to 2-way. But some advertise it w/ 3-way Crossfire support. One thing though, you'll be blocking all the buttons and connections on the bottom slot. I have the same issue w/ my 4-way Crossfire setup too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you get a PLX board, you'll have optimal spacing, an extra slot or two available (sound card?), and it won't block your headers and buttons.
> 
> How about the X-power?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yea i checked and these buttons will be blocked as you said. and xpower board looks ok but i dont want to pay extra money for a z87 board .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Crossfire supports 4x and sli does not. I was trying to figure why the Asrock oc formula supports 3 way crossfire but only 2 way sli and that's the reason.


i also read here.http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/10/15/msi_z87_mpower_lga_1150_motherboard_review/#.U073DHDn-SB
The expansion slot area is well thought out. Three PCI-Express x16 slots which operate in an x16x0x0, x8x8x0, or x8x4x4 configuration. The Z87 MPower is certified for 3-Way CrossFire and only standard two-card SLI or dual card, quad-GPU Quad-SLI.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Crossfire supports 4x and sli does not. I was trying to figure why the Asrock oc formula supports 3 way crossfire but only 2 way sli and that's the reason.


Seems like it applies to SLI only then. Thanks for backing this up







+1.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Lol that still does not answer my question


My bad sir, I clicked on the wrong post









The revolvers I believe are anodized aluminum. Since they don't touch the water at all, you can always squirt them the color you want. Btw, that's an awesome deal








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yea i checked and these buttons will be blocked as you said. and xpower board looks ok but i dont want to pay extra money for a z87 board .
> i also read here.http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/10/15/msi_z87_mpower_lga_1150_motherboard_review/#.U073DHDn-SB
> The expansion slot area is well thought out. Three PCI-Express x16 slots which operate in an x16x0x0, x8x8x0, or x8x4x4 configuration. The Z87 MPower is certified for 3-Way CrossFire and only standard two-card SLI or dual card, quad-GPU Quad-SLI.


Its pretty standard layout for the enthusiast platform. The top two pcie 16x slots are spaced that way since most users will have one or two cards. The 3rd, though it is capable of xfire) is merely expansion imho. Look around, with Z87 going out soon, you may find some deals. Look used as well, there's a few PLX Z87 boards out there.

Also, what's an extra $100 when you drop ~$1600 on three Hawaii







.

If you stick w/ this board, EK does make a bridge for this layout called "Z77 bridge/terminal". Albeit you'll need all EK blocks. Or go w/ adjustable sli links.


----------



## charliebrown

Ok thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hey gang,
> I thought I would run these by you. I made some custom pump body parts.
> I made a stainless steel mold and poured them with a poly resin. they are lit with an imbedded 3mm LED in each and change glow depending st what angle they are viewed from. I tried a range of fine sandpaper and a power rotary sander and found that 240 grit gave me the most desirable light diffusion They are hard to photograph but look great. These are the two visible of the three D5's that will power the Holodeck 11 cooling system for the AMD High Performance Project.


Very nice,did you copy the stock Laing D5 volute or go all basic like the DDC volute?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hey gang,
> I thought I would run these by you. I made some custom pump body parts.
> I made a stainless steel mold and poured them with a poly resin. they are lit with an imbedded 3mm LED in each and change glow depending st what angle they are viewed from. I tried a range of fine sandpaper and a power rotary sander and found that 240 grit gave me the most desirable light diffusion They are hard to photograph but look great. These are the two visible of the three D5's that will power the Holodeck 11 cooling system for the AMD High Performance Project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice,did you copy the stock Laing D5 volute or go all basic like the DDC volute?
Click to expand...

Hey B, long time  How goes the fight?

It's actually a custom shape. I played until I got it the way I liked it and this is where I landed.

Here they are before I lit them up.

This is actually part of the 'AMD High Performance Project' I am working with AMD and five other sponsors.

I am also doing a 7850K A88X build in a Switch 810 case.



Any way, here is the rest of the project build log.

I just got word that the VGA blocks were ups'd today.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1473361/amd-high-performance-project-by-red1776/110


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Seems like it applies to SLI only then. Thanks for backing this up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1.
> My bad sir, I clicked on the wrong post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The revolvers I believe are anodized aluminum. Since they don't touch the water at all, you can always squirt them the color you want. Btw, that's an awesome deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its pretty standard layout for the enthusiast platform. The top two pcie 16x slots are spaced that way since most users will have one or two cards. The 3rd, though it is capable of xfire) is merely expansion imho. Look around, with Z87 going out soon, you may find some deals. Look used as well, there's a few PLX Z87 boards out there.
> 
> Also, what's an extra $100 when you drop ~$1600 on three Hawaii
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you stick w/ this board, EK does make a bridge for this layout called "Z77 bridge/terminal". Albeit you'll need all EK blocks. Or go w/ adjustable sli links.


thank you but i live in Turkey and its hard to find a good deal here, prices are higher than usa. I think i will stick with the current mobo.


----------



## Gunderman456

I posted a few pages back on the Hawaiian Heat Wave v.2.0. I've now ran some temp tests and the additions and tweaks have made a significant difference.

Go to the Build Log in sig and check it out!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I thought I would run these by you. I made some custom pump body parts.
> 
> I made a stainless steel mold and poured them with a poly resin. they are lit with an imbedded 3mm LED in each and change glow depending st what angle they are viewed from. I tried a range of fine sandpaper and a power rotary sander and found that 240 grit gave me the most desirable light diffusion They are hard to photograph but look great. These are the two visible of the three D5's that will power the Holodeck 11 cooling system for the AMD High Performance Project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice,did you copy the stock Laing D5 volute or go all basic like the DDC volute?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey B, long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How goes the fight?
> It's actually a custom shape. I played until I got it the way I liked it and this is where I landed.
> Here they are before I lit them up.
> This is actually part of the 'AMD High Performance Project' I am working with AMD and five other sponsors.
> I am also doing a 7850K A88X build in a Switch 810 case.
> 
> 
> Any way, here is the rest of the project build log.
> I just got word that the VGA blocks were ups'd today.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1473361/amd-high-performance-project-by-red1776/110
Click to expand...

Not bad at all fella.
Subbed your log,nice to see you back mate.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Has anyone had any experience with PrimoChill Intensifier Transparent Fluid Dye - UV Red ?

Not too worried about it dying the tubing, but is the colour actually "Red" or more of a pinky red ?

Does it mix well ?


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xmathx*


Super clean - love the res placement as well


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thank you but i live in Turkey and its hard to find a good deal here, prices are higher than usa. I think i will stick with the current mobo.


It should still work but it will come a few compromises. Try shopping the in forums. There some US members who will ship overseas and may save you some money. I've sold to many chaps around the globe. They site they're willing to pay the extra shipping costs as it tends to be cheaper then buying it in their native country.

Also recommend Maximus VI Extreme which has a plx (like the Xpower and Sniper5).


----------



## BradleyW

Nice shot xmathx.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xmathx*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome rig







. Also, made it on EKWB FB, congrats


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xmathx*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very simple. Very clean, Very beautiful. Great work. I love the bends you used.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It should still work but it will come a few compromises. Try shopping the in forums. There some US members who will ship overseas and may save you some money. I've sold to many chaps around the globe. They site they're willing to pay the extra shipping costs as it tends to be cheaper then buying it in their native country.
> 
> Also recommend Maximus VI Extreme which has a plx (like the Xpower and Sniper5).


will the performance between x8 x16 x8and x8x4x4 be very high?Also i have 2 d5 pumps should i go with 2 loop or 1 loop with 2 serial connected pumps ?


----------



## wermad

4x pcie 3.0 is fine for a gpu. Run a single loop and use both pumps in series.


----------



## Phobia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Very simple. Very clean, Very beautiful. Great work. I love the bends you used.


Wow so sick build. So beautiful as simple as it is. Nice work.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Good lookin build. Nice bends on the acrylic.


Thanks!


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xmathx*


Nice work!!


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> will the performance between x8 x16 x8and x8x4x4 be very high?Also i have 2 d5 pumps should i go with 2 loop or 1 loop with 2 serial connected pumps ?


Keep in mind that's x8/x4/x4 pcie 3.0 (typically, depending on mobo). Which is actually x16/x8/x8 pcie 2.0, which is plenty fast. The performance difference, especially with 3 cards, should be minimal.

Also, save yourself a headache and just run 1 loop with pumps in serial. Gives you a bit of redundancy if a pump fails too.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I normally hate white or all white builds, but.... that thing is gorgeous!!!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 4x pcie 3.0 is fine for a gpu. Run a single loop and use both pumps in series.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Keep in mind that's x8/x4/x4 pcie 3.0 (typically, depending on mobo). Which is actually x16/x8/x8 pcie 2.0, which is plenty fast. The performance difference, especially with 3 cards, should be minimal.
> 
> Also, save yourself a headache and just run 1 loop with pumps in serial. Gives you a bit of redundancy if a pump fails too.


i couldnt find any info if m power max is pcie x8x4x4 3.0 or 2.0.


----------



## pc-illiterate

all 3 slots are 3.0


----------



## dontbenv




----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dontbenv*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good there!


----------



## CrSt3r

What i dont like about vertical Tri-TFT is the f* bezel ...

Apart from that. NICE BUILD


----------



## skupples

Bezels magically vanish as you zone into the game. Only problem is that games like diablo w/ the bottom action bar only function properly in portrait. Landscape tends to stretch the bar across all 3 monitors which has an adverse affect on the gaming experience.


----------



## derickwm

What monitors are those?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dontbenv*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Somebody really likes stickers


----------



## dontbenv

they are Dell u2412m ultrasharp ips 1920x1200. yes free stickers, i am a fix gear biker and my friend own a clothing line " Entree " tell you the true when you play on triple monitors there no way going back to single monitor. right now i play diablo III and Tear online.

p.s i'm thinking to full water block that build, PPC has all the parts i need, but kind of dont want order it from them. i have Bad experience with them.


----------



## CrSt3r

I actually had 3 "Dell U2312HM" ... but stepped back to just 2 of 'em


----------



## Dortheleus

Question gang:

EK-DDC 3.25 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal

or

EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Acetal

Same price. Same function and looks.

Which one and why?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Question gang:
> 
> EK-DDC 3.25 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal
> 
> or
> 
> EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Acetal
> 
> Same price. Same function and looks.
> 
> Which one and why?


Depends. If you have a fan controller that can handle a DDC pump then the 3.25 would be fine. If you don't then the PWM version controlled by the motherboard is probably a better idea. The PWM version is probably cheaper overall if you don't buy a controller but PWM only gives you control while the system is running. A controller gives you independent control.

It just depends how you want to use them. The results will be very much the same in the end.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Question gang:
> 
> EK-DDC 3.25 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal
> 
> or
> 
> EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Acetal
> 
> Same price. Same function and looks.
> 
> Which one and why?


Pwm without a doubt. Pwm pumps can run much slower than voltage controlled ones.


----------



## Dortheleus

Thanks guys, will go for the Pwm.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Bezels magically vanish as you zone into the game. Only problem is that games like diablo w/ the bottom action bar only function properly in portrait. Landscape tends to stretch the bar across all 3 monitors which has an adverse affect on the gaming experience.


3 monitor gaming gives me headaches,I will stick to my single screen.....sadly. 3 monitor porn is great....I grew up thinking women had staples in their stomachs,now my kids will grow thinking women have big black bezels ...technology is wonderful.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Question gang:
> 
> EK-DDC 3.25 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal
> 
> or
> 
> EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Acetal
> 
> Same price. Same function and looks.
> 
> Which one and why?


Because......

Racecar?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i couldnt find any info if m power max is pcie x8x4x4 3.0 or 2.0.


Yup, haswell is 3.0.

Got lucky and got the non silver-barb versions of the Monsoons







.



And yes, those are five monitors. And yes, some ppl get motion sickness after a few hours. Happened to me when i switched to three monitors and then to five. Put in a few hours and you'll be fine. I got through some games already and looks like i'm over mine. Though, if you put in ~7-8 hours, it can get you really fatigued







. I get motion sickness w/ 3D so I avoid it like the plague







.

edit:


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because......
> Racecar?


The build I'm working on will have a 6x7" reservoir splitting to 2x140 radiators. Check my Log here.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 3 monitor gaming gives me headaches,I will stick to my single screen.....sadly. 3 monitor porn is great....
> Because......
> 
> Racecar?












I'm sad to say iv'e never ran into pron that will conform to 5760x1080P, though I would guess it spans in portrait much better.

It use to give me headaches as well. Almost as bad as VR sickness, but with less nausea. Figured out I had to re-adjust to lower backlight settings.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 3 monitor gaming gives me headaches,I will stick to my single screen.....sadly. 3 monitor porn is great


I wish I could just try it....though I feel like it would give me headaches/motion sickness as well.

It'd be sweet to have both a single hi-res monitor set-up and a triple monitor set-up, so I could switch it up when I felt like it.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup, haswell is 3.0.


the difference between x8x16x4 and x8x4x4 will be very low right?So should i really upgrade to extreme vi?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> the difference between x8x16x4 and x8x4x4 will be very low right?So should i really upgrade to extreme vi?


Unless you're going for world records in benchmarks, it should not be an issue. 4x 3.0 is the equivalent of 8x 2.0. There's lots of ppl still running 2.0 with no issues. I think amd doesn't recommend 4x 2.0 for Hawaii. Since you're on Haswell, you're 100% fine.

Which blocks do you have in mind btw?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Unless you're going for world records in benchmarks, it should not be an issue. 4x 3.0 is the equivalent of 8x 2.0. There's lots of ppl still running 2.0 with no issues. I think amd doesn't recommend 4x 2.0 for Hawaii. Since you're on Haswell, you're 100% fine.
> 
> Which blocks do you have in mind btw?


i will buy ek plexi nickel blocks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I wish I could just try it....though I feel like it would give me headaches/motion sickness as well.
> 
> It'd be sweet to have both a single hi-res monitor set-up and a triple monitor set-up, so I could switch it up when I felt like it.


I was skeptical at first, but it is really freakin hard to go back to single monitor gaming. Complete immersion in the game is just awesome









Also, when you friends and family come over and see it, their minds are completely blown...and sadly, the 3 monitors get more attention than that sick watercooling rig with acrylic tube that is running them....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i will buy ek plexi nickel blocks


Alright, if you go with CSQ circles, you need this bridge:

"Triple Z77 CSQ"



If you go with their clean blocks, you need this one:

"Terminal Triple Z77"


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Alright, if you go with CSQ circles, you need this bridge:
> 
> "Triple Z77 CSQ"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1979235/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> If you go with their clean blocks, you need this one:
> 
> "Terminal Triple Z77"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1979240/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


i will use acrylic tubing `bitspower c47 without a connection bridge


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> i will use acrylic tubing `bitspower c47 without a connection bridge


Crystal links, those are good. Just make sure you cut them right if you're buying separate acrylic (12mm od) or get the kits available already from BP.


----------



## inmansfault

Hi all! I'm building my first custom loop, and I have a question. I just filled the loop last night, and all is well except the reservoir is churning quite a bit. The pump I'm using has pwm, which isn't hooked up at the moment. Is it churning so bad because the pump is running full tilt? Do I need to fill the rez some more? Any ideas or suggestions would be seriously appreciated.

Here's my pump: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=c107s153b33

Here's a quick video of what's happening:




(The noise in the video is my fish tank, not the machine.







)


----------



## 15goudreau

video doesn't work it's "undefined" and from the sounds of it you need an anti-vortex insert. Or more water. try topping it off and seeing if that helps.


----------



## Gabrielzm

The d5 pwm (at least the Swiftech model and I suspect all the others too since if I am not mistaken all come directly from Laing - Please Bryan correct me if I am wrong) will run at 60% if pwm cable is not connected to MB. Try top off the the reservoir. Also, since is running a 60% to fully bleed the system you will have to connect the pump to MB and then crank up the speed to 100% for a while since usually 60% is not enough to get rid of all the air in the system.

hope it helps


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all! I'm building my first custom loop, and I have a question. I just filled the loop last night, and all is well except the reservoir is churning quite a bit. The pump I'm using has pwm, which isn't hooked up at the moment. Is it churning so bad because the pump is running full tilt? Do I need to fill the rez some more? Any ideas or suggestions would be seriously appreciated.
> 
> Here's my pump: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=c107s153b33
> 
> Here's a quick video of what's happening:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (The noise in the video is my fish tank, not the machine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


this is known as vortexing. There are a few things you can do to resolve it. #1 would be to hook up the PWM functionality via the CPU_HEADER on your motherboard. You really don't need the pump running @ 100%. It should have zero impact on your temps. The second thing to do (assuming you WANT to run it @ 100%) is get an anti-vortex fitting for the reservoir, OR anti-vortex foam.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The d5 pwm (at least the Swiftech model and I suspect all the others too since if I am not mistaken all come directly from Laing - Please Bryan correct me if I am wrong) will run at 60% if pwm cable is not connected to MB. Try top off the the reservoir. Also, since is running a 60% to fully bleed the system you will have to connect the pump to MB and then crank up the speed to 100% for a while since usually 60% is not enough to get rid of all the air in the system.
> 
> hope it helps


Yes, this is correct for the MCP655 PWM pump. I couldn't watch the video either, so I don't know what sound you're hearing.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, this is correct for the MCP655 PWM pump. I couldn't watch the video either, so I don't know what sound you're hearing.


Since you are around Bryan can you clarify to me if the PWM on Swiftech d5 model is default from factory (Laing) or is something Swiftech designed and implemented in the house? The reason I ask is to figure out if all d5 PWM will suffer from the same symptom when we try to control it via the Aquaero or not.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Since you are around Bryan can you clarify to me if the PWM on Swiftech d5 model is default from factory (Laing) or is something Swiftech designed and implemented in the house? The reason I ask is to figure out if all d5 PWM will suffer from the same symptom when we try to control it via the Aquaero or not.


This is done for us by Laing and therefore their implementation of it will be the same on all PWM D5 pumps. Sorry about that.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is done for us by Laing and therefore their implementation of it will be the same on all PWM D5 pumps. Sorry about that.


Thks for clarifying. Can you bring this to Gabe´s attention? Would you guys consider helping us out (d5 pwm owners + aquaero) and embrace the pcb adapter ITDiva developed to correct the pwm signal to conform to intel specs? If Swiftech would embrace that and offer as a accessory to the d5 pwm I think many many folks would be happy.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1930#post_21953230

Cheers

PS- Sorry B-neg to be a little off topic here but I think the subject is important to many folks around here.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks for clarifying. Can you bring this to Gabe´s attention? Would you guys consider helping us out (d5 pwm owners + aquaero) and embrace the pcb adapter ITDiva developed to correct the pwm signal to conform to intel specs? If Swiftech would embrace that and offer as a accessory to the d5 pwm I think many many folks would be happy.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1930#post_21953230
> 
> Cheers
> 
> PS- Sorry B-neg to be a little off topic here but I think the subject is important to many folks around here.


I highly doubt that this will be considered since the number of users that would actually be interested in such a device is likely to be extremely small. Producing such a unit would therefore likely be at a loss and that's not really a good idea. I'll bring it to his attention though, but I highly doubt that it will be entertained.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dontbenv*
> 
> they are Dell u2412m ultrasharp ips 1920x1200. yes free stickers, i am a fix gear biker and my friend own a clothing line " Entree " tell you the true when you play on triple monitors there no way going back to single monitor. right now i play diablo III and Tear online.
> 
> p.s i'm thinking to full water block that build, PPC has all the parts i need, but kind of dont want order it from them. i have Bad experience with them.


Care to tell about your experience? I represent Performance-PC's here on OCN and I'd be glad to help. I'll send you a PM.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with PrimoChill Intensifier Transparent Fluid Dye - UV Red ?
> 
> Not too worried about it dying the tubing, but is the colour actually "Red" or more of a pinky red ?
> 
> Does it mix well ?


No one has experience with Primchill's dyes









I guess I will be the first then.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> No one has experience with Primchill's dyes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will be the first then.


I've used them. I haven't tried their transparent or UV dyes though. The one I have experience with is their Blood Red concentrate. It works pretty well, just don't use too much of it. You don't need much to get the color that you want. You just need to put in a little and wait for it to circulate through the loop for a bit before adding more. If you add too much you can't really dilute it very easily without draining your loop and starting over. Just something to keep in mind.


----------



## wermad

I bought their "dye bombs" as a noob in 2009. Don't even bother, its crap tbh. Not sure about the new stuff though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

From what I've been told is to not use Primochill Dye bombs or intensifiers.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I bought their "dye bombs" as a noob in 2009. Don't even bother, its crap tbh. Not sure about the new stuff though.


Yeah, I've used their old "dye bombs" in the past. They were horrible. They broke down very quickly and stained everything. Their new concentrates though seem to be much better. I used a few drops of the Blood Red concentrate in a loop that ran for more than six months. The only thing that was stained was the tubing.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I was skeptical at first, but it is really freakin hard to go back to single monitor gaming. Complete immersion in the game is just awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, when you friends and family come over and see it, their minds are completely blown...and sadly, the 3 monitors get more attention than that sick watercooling rig with acrylic tube that is running them....


Yeah, and I know everyone says you get used to them, but I don't think I could get past the bezels. Only way I'd do surround would be 3x portrait. I wish there were some good bezelless IPS screens so I don't have to worry about doing it myself.

anyway, off-topic


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> From what I've been told is to not use Primochill Dye bombs or intensifiers.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yeah, I've used their old "dye bombs" in the past. They were horrible. They broke down very quickly and stained everything. Their new concentrates though seem to be much better. I used a few drops of the Blood Red concentrate in a loop that ran for more than six months. The only thing that was stained was the tubing.
Click to expand...

Well, they have been turning things around with the hard fittings and the Advance tube. I'm more inclined to stick w/ Mayhems for my dyes tbh.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, and I know everyone says you get used to them, but I don't think I could get past the bezels. Only way I'd do surround would be 3x portrait. I wish there were some good bezelless IPS screens so I don't have to worry about doing it myself.
> 
> anyway, off-topic


Slightly continuing the OffTopic (sorry!), but look at the *Dell U2414H*. Has one of the smallest bottom bezels of any monitor out there that makes it actually usable in portrait triple surround, and it IPS.

KK, back on topic !


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

not sure if i posted in this thread or not since i added a 240 to my loop. i still need to replace 2 of the sp120s on the top rad, and was contemplating swapping all the fans for noiseblockers. also need to get custom cables. anyone here have the corsair cable kit for the ax860? they look like they are good quality, but id like a user opinion if possible.

sorry for the crappy pic. im no photographer...


temps are great, my overclocked 780 barely reaches 40C while in BF4.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Slightly continuing the OffTopic (sorry!), but look at the *Dell U2414H*. Has one of the smallest bottom bezels of any monitor out there that makes it actually usable in portrait triple surround, and it IPS.
> 
> KK, back on topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


I just wish it was 1920x1200 at 24"


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> not sure if i posted in this thread or not since i added a 240 to my loop. i still need to replace 2 of the sp120s on the top rad, and was contemplating swapping all the fans for noiseblockers. also need to get custom cables. anyone here have the corsair cable kit for the ax860? they look like they are good quality, but id like a user opinion if possible.
> 
> sorry for the crappy pic. im no photographer...
> 
> 
> temps are great, my overclocked 780 barely reaches 40C while in BF4.


Those are some very nice bends there. Great job


----------



## dontbenv

i like high res then the 1080 120hz or 144hz monitors cuz i play RPG mmo games. not much shooting games or sport games.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those are some very nice bends there. Great job


thanks dude! i really appreciate that, some of your crazy builds are what got me going on this watercooling adventure thats been crushing my bank account the last couple years lol.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is done for us by Laing and therefore their implementation of it will be the same on all PWM D5 pumps. Sorry about that.
> 
> 
> 
> Thks for clarifying. Can you bring this to Gabe´s attention? Would you guys consider helping us out (d5 pwm owners + aquaero) and embrace the pcb adapter ITDiva developed to correct the pwm signal to conform to intel specs? If Swiftech would embrace that and offer as a accessory to the d5 pwm I think many many folks would be happy.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1930#post_21953230
> 
> Cheers
> 
> PS- Sorry B-neg to be a little off topic here but I think the subject is important to many folks around here.
Click to expand...

Don't forget that you can make the PWM D5 work acceptably well with the Aquaero with a very very simple pullup circuit that can be built right into a short extension.

That would be cheap enough to produce to be profitable.





The posts describing it and some discussion starts here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203

Darlene


----------



## phillyd

The new Primochill dyes are pretty good. I'd still recommend Mayhems though!


----------



## inmansfault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> this is known as vortexing. There are a few things you can do to resolve it. #1 would be to hook up the PWM functionality via the CPU_HEADER on your motherboard. You really don't need the pump running @ 100%. It should have zero impact on your temps. The second thing to do (assuming you WANT to run it @ 100%) is get an anti-vortex fitting for the reservoir, OR anti-vortex foam.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> video doesn't work it's "undefined" and from the sounds of it you need an anti-vortex insert. Or more water. try topping it off and seeing if that helps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, this is correct for the MCP655 PWM pump. I couldn't watch the video either, so I don't know what sound you're hearing.


I'm not sure what's up with my youtube vid. I managed to get the rez a little fuller, and it calmed down a little, but it's still churning around more than I'd like it to. I reeeeally don't want to drain the loop to put any kind of insert in, so would it hurt anything if I just let it be? I don't have the pwm cable hooked up yet, so when I do I could turn the pump down a little to calm it down even more. At least that's how it plays out in my head.


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

all done


----------



## wermad

Luv the line that runs through the span of the case


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

no other way to run it..


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> no other way to run it..


I believe he was being sincere, as it does look really nice!!


----------



## IkarosMelan

in stead of using 3 gtx 280s in sli or whatever. why dont you just buy at least one 660? or 650? doesnt make sense


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IkarosMelan*
> 
> in stead of using 3 gtx 280s in sli or whatever. why dont you just buy at least one 660? or 650? doesnt make sense


Who are you talking too? It's hard to tell when you don't quite them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> no other way to run it..
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I believe he was being sincere, as it does look really nice!!
Click to expand...

This. Nice clean, straight, run with some pastel yumminess. Like it


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> I'm not sure what's up with my youtube vid. I managed to get the rez a little fuller, and it calmed down a little, but it's still churning around more than I'd like it to. I reeeeally don't want to drain the loop to put any kind of insert in, so would it hurt anything if I just let it be? I don't have the pwm cable hooked up yet, so when I do I could turn the pump down a little to calm it down even more. At least that's how it plays out in my head.


The easiest solution is to hookup the PWM wire to the CPU_HEADER. After that all you gotta do is adjust the speed in your bios or with speedfan app.


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

thanks







..

i actually tried to mount it behind the case but had no room lol.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> No one has experience with Primchill's dyes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will be the first then.


The only experience with Primochill coolant is seeing a bottle where the dye and completely separated out and looked like blue curdled milk sitting on the bottom of the bottle
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IkarosMelan*
> 
> in stead of using 3 gtx 280s in sli or whatever. why dont you just buy at least one 660? or 650? doesnt make sense


Only makes sense if you have the money to buy a new card. That's the reason I've still stuck with SLI GTX 470's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The only experience with Primochill coolant is seeing a bottle where the dye and completely separated out and looked like blue curdled milk sitting on the bottom of the bottle


Like those ultra organic, super "healthy", gives-you-the-runs-next-day, drinks? The ones where half the contents are floating, those right?

My experience with dye bombs from them, like so many, cause a lot of gunk and staining. That was way back about five years though.

edit:

Looks like amazon let me down again. My items have not moved to ship status this entire week (







). Well, that's what I get for picking free shipping. Can't cancel as its the "awaiting shipping option and it may not go through. Well, there goes my plans to redo my loop this weekend







. Lame


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Like those ultra organic, super "healthy", gives-you-the-runs-next-day, drinks? The ones where half the contents are floating, those right?


That's why you lose so much weight, you can't keep anything in you lol


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like amazon let me down again. My items have not moved to ship status this entire week (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Well, that's what I get for picking free shipping. Can't cancel as its the "awaiting shipping option and it may not go through. Well, there goes my plans to redo my loop this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Lame


Sounds like you don't know how to amazon. Also, prime.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Sounds like you don't know how to amazon. Also, prime.


Ugh, I get tired of ppl saying get prime. I have no need for that stuff. Free shipping goes out quickly most of the time but recently its been getting delayed. All their customer service reps say to upgrade to standard shipping. I don't care if it ships slow, what i care is that it leaves amazon in a timely manner. Plus, prime you're already feeding amazon more money I really don't want to. I try to avoid using them but I have points I can use to deduct from my total. Otherwise, i would have purchased from ppcs.com or fcpu.com


----------



## derickwm

Prime is one of my best friends.


----------



## morencyam

I don't order from Amazon enough to make buying Prime worth it. And if I _really_ need too, I can use my brother's Prime


----------



## dontbenv

Prime and u can hook up 5 people to your Prime account.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I don't order from Amazon enough to make buying Prime worth it. And if I _really_ need too, I can use my brother's Prime


This, I just don't shop there frequently like i used to. I guess when they started charging cali tax, interested started waning. And, their search function is still one of the worst out there.

My coworkers also bug me to get it too but, meh, don't need it. Oh well, guess I'll wait for next week. These monsoons look tasty


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've had Prime since they started it and its been a total God send. Too bad my stupid greedy state decided to start charging sales tax on Amazon orders pretty much negating all the savings I used to get...


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I don't care if it ships slow, what i care is that it leaves amazon in a timely manner.


I get the feeling that they might actually hold back on sending it out if you get the slower shipping so that it will get there in the time frame they put up.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> edit:
> 
> Looks like amazon let me down again. My items have not moved to ship status this entire week (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Well, that's what I get for picking free shipping. Can't cancel as its the "awaiting shipping option and it may not go through. Well, there goes my plans to redo my loop this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Lame


I bought some phone accessories Dec 5th and picked free shipping through amazon. They shipped Dec 21st.......

They were Christmas presents too. I was really upset.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I bought some phone accessories Dec 5th and picked free shipping through amazon. They shipped Dec 21st.......
> 
> They were Christmas presents too. I was really upset.


My wife got some cell accessories too from there. After a month she asked if it was that slow. I found out she purchased from a "US seller" who shipped from Chine. About a month and a half, the stuff arrived. Might as well get it from ebay


----------



## sinnedone

Yeah, but I specifically picked ones sold by Amazon.com. They told me that's how they do it in their warehouses. I told em to get people that knew what they're doing. Lol


----------



## IkarosMelan

the person with the 3 gtx 260s


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ugh, I get tired of ppl saying get prime. I have no need for that stuff. Free shipping goes out quickly most of the time but recently its been getting delayed. All their customer service reps say to upgrade to standard shipping. I don't care if it ships slow, what i care is that it leaves amazon in a timely manner. Plus, prime you're already feeding amazon more money I really don't want to. I try to avoid using them but I have points I can use to deduct from my total. Otherwise, i would have purchased from ppcs.com or fcpu.com


We have four people using the same Prime account, so it pays for its self 100 times over each year. Your description of the "free shipping" makes it sound like they are purposely sabotaging the process to make people want to switch over to prime/pay for shipping. I know, hard to believe. A corporation doing shady things. It is along the lines of politicians looking out for you. Both are the case 100% of the time.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Even in Canada. Where amazon only has a fraction of what americans get. I still pay for prime. And I'm the only one using it. Well worth it.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ugh, I get tired of ppl saying get prime. I have no need for that stuff. Free shipping goes out quickly most of the time but recently its been getting delayed. All their customer service reps say to upgrade to standard shipping. I don't care if it ships slow, what i care is that it leaves amazon in a timely manner. Plus, prime you're already feeding amazon more money I really don't want to. I try to avoid using them but I have points I can use to deduct from my total. Otherwise, i would have purchased from ppcs.com or fcpu.com


Protip: when buying something on Amazon, make sure it's fulfilled by amazon. If you're ordering through some third party seller, often times you'll get screwed with slow and/or expensive shipping. I got prime for free as a student, and once I finished college I got a discount on a subscription so I continued paying...pretty minuscule yearly fee in the grand scheme of things.

Also, I don't understand your gripes with their search. It's pretty fantastic in my 6 or so years of experience....

Also also, use *smile.amazon.com* and you can search through thousands of charities, choose one, and it will donate a portion of your purchase to their cause; no extra fees. I chose the Oregon Humane Society


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I think I get more use out of the Prime video streaming services and discounted pricing than from the shipping advantages. There are so many series and movies available for free to Prime members that it really beats Netflix IMO as far as content is concerned. Use my PS3 and Prime account more on my 60" plasma than cable...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yeah, but I specifically picked ones sold by Amazon.com. They told me that's how they do it in their warehouses. I told em to get people that knew what they're doing. Lol


Yup, I've gotten excuses like this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> We have four people using the same Prime account, so it pays for its self 100 times over each year. Your description of the "free shipping" makes it sound like they are purposely sabotaging the process to make people want to switch over to prime/pay for shipping. I know, hard to believe. A corporation doing shady things. It is along the lines of politicians looking out for you. Both are the case 100% of the time.


It used to be $25 or more purchases qualify from for free shipping, its now $35. Tbh, it may be the matter of the fact. If they sell shipping like most sites based on shipping time, then they would have shipped my order ground on Monday. This free shipping if you spend $35 or more I've been told doesn't prioritize your order in the warehouse. So in other words, its free, but with a catch (like most free things tbh). Then they splash you with Prime and free 2-day shipping. Its marketing, i get it. Its just that this option used to be a lot quicker and its worse today, just like many things are with them imho. Hence why I try not to buy here. But can't say no to those free points I get







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Protip: when buying something on Amazon, make sure it's fulfilled by amazon. If you're ordering through some third party seller, often times you'll get screwed with slow and/or expensive shipping. I got prime for free as a student, and once I finished college I got a discount on a subscription so I continued paying...pretty minuscule yearly fee in the grand scheme of things.
> 
> Also, I don't understand your gripes with their search. It's pretty fantastic in my 6 or so years of experience....
> 
> Also also, use *smile.amazon.com* and you can search through thousands of charities, choose one, and it will donate a portion of your purchase to their cause; no extra fees. I chose the Oregon Humane Society


Uhm, not sure if you think I'm a total noob, but if you yourself are an "amazon pro", you should know that the free shipping is for only amazon or amazon fulfilled orders







. Just saying, I've been a member since 2000 (I think







) so I've dabbled with it







.

Try searching for a 120hz hdtv, and like stupid walmart, you get thousands of results. Even items that are no longer available. Its so congested (like Walmart.com) that you have to know specifically what you're looking for otherwise, general searches are just overwhelming. Reason why I don't mind shopping at newegg.com or other smaller sites.

Alright, I think many of you have blown this thing out of proportion. Bottom line, I don't like it, too late, can't cancel. I'll be surprised if it shipped but they never updated their site (has happened). I had plans to get this done this weekend. Guess not, thanks to amazon. I chose 4-5 ground shipping w/ ppcs.com and jab-tech. Both arrived Thursday. That's what I expected from amazon, not delays, but if that is what you get with this "free shipping", c'est la vie.

And no, I'm not still getting prime







.

Alright, gonna go run some benchies for the red-team in the Fanboy challenge thingy


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## wermad

Wow


----------



## ozzy1925

which color bitspower acrylic fitting looks better with mayhems pastel white inside 900d?


----------



## charliebrown

What color scheme you have I got a red n black theme inside a white switch 810 my revolver fittings are white with pastel red fluid


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Which fans?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> Which fans?


Cooler master jet-flo's if i remember correctly....

Another awesome looking build James....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Cheers for the help








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've used them. I haven't tried their transparent or UV dyes though. The one I have experience with is their Blood Red concentrate. It works pretty well, just don't use too much of it. You don't need much to get the color that you want. You just need to put in a little and wait for it to circulate through the loop for a bit before adding more. If you add too much you can't really dilute it very easily without draining your loop and starting over. Just something to keep in mind.


Cool, I guess I could get both, Blood red and UV red. They are pretty cheap.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I bought their "dye bombs" as a noob in 2009. Don't even bother, its crap tbh. Not sure about the new stuff though.


I have heard this before about their dye bombs.

A second question for everyone;

What are peoples thoughts about using Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PLPS 120mm on XT45 and UT60 rads ? Are they good enough?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, they have been turning things around with the hard fittings and the Advance tube. I'm more inclined to stick w/ Mayhems for my dyes tbh.


That's who's products I've been looking into using mainly due to very minimal negative responses as long as you make sure your ph levels are neutral you'll have zero issues on their dyes and fluids.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just dayum, great work







hope my Project Lazerus turns out just as well.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


That's impressive James!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Updates: moved feed line for 120 to go behind the 280 rather than across the motherboard, now have access to 8 pin, since I will be changing mother boards in a few days.

Removed filter from line feeding cpu, I shouldn't have wasted my time.

Rotated cpu block back to correct position, Temps dropped a few degrees as the water flow goes across die properly.

Replace the koolance reservoir that leaked EVERYWHERE, with an Ek 250, cleaned up the feed line to pump one, and removed 8 fittings throughout the whole setup.



NEXT: Replacing the Z87-pro with a Z87 Classified and the MCP35X's with D5 Varios. replacing all PCIe cables from split dual to single 6+2, and sleeving all prior.

Question, if I can get an answer, will 100' of paracord possibly be enough for everything to be sleeved the same color? This will be my first time, and I want to do it right.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Sweet Baby Jeebus that is nice! Well Done!


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Gorgeous as always








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> Which fans?


CoolerMaster Jet Flo


----------



## Jimhans1

@Scarlet-Tech

Assuming your 24-pin cable has a length of 2', you would need 48 feet to do just the 24-pin.

And 8-pins would be 16 feet each for each one, so if you have 4, that's 64 feet for them.

That's 112 feet to do the 24, and 4-8's.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @Scarlet-Tech
> 
> Assuming your 24-pin cable has a length of 2', you would need 48 feet to do just the 24-pin.
> 
> And 8-pins would be 16 feet each for each one, so if you have 4, that's 64 feet for them.
> 
> That's 112 feet to do the 24, and 4-8's.


WELLLLLL ... Looks like I am ordering another spool, lol. Thank you, as I couldn't have figured that out without thinking about the lengths... It would seem you may have done this once or twice, lol.

I will start with the PCIe cables, and then get the 24 pin later down the road.


----------



## 15goudreau

Time for me to contribute the upgrades to my computer. They've been there a while but I needed to sleeve and then get a DSLR. http://imgur.com/a/Kr4vm#0 is the album here are ones I like


----------



## Fulvin

Is it possible that the stock performance of the EK DDC 3.25 is so bad that it makes my temps go up? My old pump, EK DCP 4.0 ran about 10C cooler than what I'm getting with my new pump. I have remounted twice, and also switched the hose arrangement once, but neither helped. The pump is running off of 12V and the I'm getting a normal RPM signal as well, so I doubt it's defective, but somehow it isn't living up to its stats, according to which it should perform better.

I was thinking of getting a pump top, which EK states would boost the performance by 15% and by that also the cooling performance. Would that do any good, or is it that my CPU/GPU have their own will and have started to run hotter on their own?


----------



## 15goudreau

Have you tried putting the old pump back in. There is no way your temps are going up that much due to the pump unless it is really restrictive.


----------



## derickwm

The DCP4.0 is a more powerful pump than most people give it credit for, however 10C seems like quite a dramatic increase.

So you didn't change anything else in the loop/case?


----------



## lowfat

Even with the crappy stock top the DDC3.25 is significantly more powerful than a DCP4. The pump isn't your problem.


----------



## Pimphare

@15goudreau

Nice work man!









That raspberry blue is really growing on me lately.


----------



## 15goudreau

Thanks! Took me a while and spent a good amount of money on it but I am really happy with the results!


----------



## Fulvin

Well, the old pump broke down, so at this point it would be tricky to do a comparison.

While I swapped the old pump out, I did a routine cleanup of the parts with vinegar solution and changed the tubing and also the reservoir, but the layout remained nearly identical (until I tried switching things around later on, to no avail). The pic in my rig portraits the setup with the old pump on.

The temperature difference might be less than 10c, but however considerable it is, it is significant enough to cause WHEA errors to appear in the Windows Event Log during gaming, which usually happens when the CPU temps creep towards 80c. If I recall correctly, the CPU temp didn't use to go much higher than about 70c with the old pump.


----------



## 15goudreau

If you disassembled your loop recently I'm going to go ahead and say there is air in your radiators that hasn't been bleed yet. Crank the pump to full and jump the PSU and let it run for 24 hours. Also shake your computer case a bunch and report back.


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> If you disassembled your loop recently I'm going to go ahead and say there is air in your radiators that hasn't been bleed yet. Crank the pump to full and jump the PSU and let it run for 24 hours. Also shake your computer case a bunch and report back.


I did that after I was done putting it back together, but I may give it a try.

edit: Did the tilting once more and not a single bubble escaped, so that's ruled out.


----------



## dontbenv

Can you low down the pump speed ?? I'm using diff pump and I have speed 1-5 for me to set it , I set mine on 2 close to 2 pump speed. Over 2 too loud and temp not stable . MCP


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Time for me to contribute the upgrades to my computer. They've been there a while but I needed to sleeve and then get a DSLR. http://imgur.com/a/Kr4vm#0 is the album here are ones I like
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Specs? Build log?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> Well, the old pump broke down, so at this point it would be tricky to do a comparison.
> 
> While I swapped the old pump out, I did a routine cleanup of the parts with vinegar solution and changed the tubing and also the reservoir, but the layout remained nearly identical (until I tried switching things around later on, to no avail). The pic in my rig portraits the setup with the old pump on.
> 
> The temperature difference might be less than 10c, but however considerable it is, it is significant enough to cause WHEA errors to appear in the Windows Event Log during gaming, which usually happens when the CPU temps creep towards 80c. If I recall correctly, the CPU temp didn't use to go much higher than about 70c with the old pump.


I would be scared still if my temps hit 70c with a custom loop, even with high ambients, my temps never go over 55c


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Time for me to contribute the upgrades to my computer. They've been there a while but I needed to sleeve and then get a DSLR. http://imgur.com/a/Kr4vm#0 is the album here are ones I like
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the coolant color. Good job.


----------



## jpetrach

Question, if I can get an answer, will 100' of paracord possibly be enough for everything to be sleeved the same color? This will be my first time, and I want to do it right.[/quote]

Not likely I had 100' and I was about 10' short just doing 1-24 pin 1 sata 1 Molex 2 pcie's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Question, if I can get an answer, will 100' of paracord possibly be enough for everything to be sleeved the same color? This will be my first time, and I want to do it right.
> 
> Not likely I had 100' and I was about 10' short just doing 1-24 pin 1 sata 1 Molex 2 pcie's


It really depends. If you're going to sleeve like four gpu pcie cables, it may not be enough. Just one, you can probably pull it off. I usually get ~200' for a psu. Paracord is cheap. You can get a roll of 100' off ebay for ~$10 shipped.


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I would be scared still if my temps hit 70c with a custom loop, even with high ambients, my temps never go over 55c


I only have a 360 rad to handle both 7950 (1150MHz/1.275V) and 3770k (4.6GHz/1.32V), so I suppose that's to be expected. The GPU never exceeds 55c, so it's more like just the Intel's whole thermal paste policy cooking the CPU.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Question, if I can get an answer, will 100' of paracord possibly be enough for everything to be sleeved the same color? This will be my first time, and I want to do it right.
> 
> Not likely I had 100' and I was about 10' short just doing 1-24 pin 1 sata 1 Molex 2 pcie's
> 
> 
> 
> It really depends. If you're going to sleeve like four gpu pcie cables, it may not be enough. Just one, you can probably pull it off. I usually get ~200' for a psu. Paracord is cheap. You can get a roll of 100' off ebay for ~$10 shipped.
Click to expand...

Sorry I know









But like werm said paracord is cheap, so just get an extra roll. Took me a little over 100' to do this. I still have a SATA and molex power to do.


----------



## skupples

nothing more nerve racking than pulling your tri-sli FC-terminal linked GPUs out of your motherboard.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Sorry I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But like werm said paracord is cheap, so just get an extra roll. Took me a little over 100' to do this. I still have a SATA and molex power to do.


Killer job there








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nothing more nerve racking than pulling your tri-sli FC-terminal linked GPUs out of your motherboard.


I tilt the case on its side so any remaining dribbles of water can collect on the opposite side of the ports of the block. More nerve-racking doing four gpu's







. Redoing my loop soon and I'll be making some holes for pass-throughs so the whole thing will be broken down.


----------



## derickwm

My temps get over 70 during mining... But mining is really rough on hardware and I've only got a 480 rad for 7 blocks lol. NEED MOAR!


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Love the coolant color. Good job.


thanks dude!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My temps get over 70 during mining... But mining is really rough on hardware and I've only got a 480 rad for 7 blocks lol. NEED MOAR!


moAr rads!!


----------



## wermad

He's probably maxed out on that tj07. A new CL is in order Derick!!!!!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> He's probably maxed out on that tj07. A new CL is in order Derick!!!!!


No way is a tj07 maxed with 4x 120.


----------



## derickwm

I don't know about new... If these 2 240 rads I'm adding don't bring temps down to something respectable I'll just be putting the 4 cards into the SR-2 STH10.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Debating on buying some primo advanced clear and redoing my tubing in Frankenstein so I can dye or change to Mayhems pastel. . Decisions decisions. . Lol


----------



## 15goudreau

just go acrylic... you know you want to


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> I only have a 360 rad to handle both 7950 (1150MHz/1.275V) and 3770k (4.6GHz/1.32V), so I suppose that's to be expected. The GPU never exceeds 55c, so it's more like just the Intel's whole thermal paste policy cooking the CPU.


Still higher than I would expect honestly, my 3770k is @4.8ghz/1.35v. What's you idle temp at? Just curious.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> just go acrylic... you know you want to


Yes I know I want to and I am w/ the Project Lazarus build but still working on designing the pedestal for it, which I'm thinking of designing to house the PSU/RAD/PUMP and possbily a dual set of small tube reservoirs. if and when I go acrylic in the Frankenstein I'm changing cpu water blocks and adding the memory water block since I have a Black Ice GTX crossflow 240 Xtreme to add in the case (nice spot on the front to place it







)


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This, I just don't shop there frequently like i used to. I guess when they started charging cali tax, interested started waning. And, their search function is still one of the worst out there.
> 
> My coworkers also bug me to get it too but, meh, don't need it. Oh well, guess I'll wait for next week. These monsoons look tasty


Which monsoon fittings are those?


----------



## skupples

So I have this batch of like 10-12 AP-15s that have black fan plugs. They are complete garbage compared to the standard white plugs. They barely click into place w/ fan Y splitters and what not. Anyone else experienced this?


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Still higher than I would expect honestly, my 3770k is @4.8ghz/1.35v. What's you idle temp at? Just curious.


A few degrees above room temp.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Which monsoon fittings are those?


Monsoon compression for nylon/plastic tube. 1/2x3/4 finished in green.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1028&products_id=33957

Got lucky I didn't get the ones w/ the silver barb as I don't want to risk my EK nickel blocks.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So I have this batch of like 10-12 AP-15s that have black fan plugs. They are complete garbage compared to the standard white plugs. They barely click into place w/ fan Y splitters and what not. Anyone else experienced this?


I thought they always came with white connectors? Did the shop you bought them from switch them out with the black ones maybe?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I thought they always came with white connectors? Did the shop you bought them from switch them out with the black ones maybe?


I don't think so. They all have come from PPCs. I have like 40 of them, and it is pretty much split down the middle. I'm guessing it is just an availability thing for the factory.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Monsoon compression for nylon/plastic tube. 1/2x3/4 finished in green.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1028&products_id=33957
> 
> Got lucky I didn't get the ones w/ the silver barb as I don't want to risk my EK nickel blocks.


Do certain stores list the ones that have silver barbs?


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Monsoon compression for nylon/plastic tube. 1/2x3/4 finished in green.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1028&products_id=33957
> 
> Got lucky I didn't get the ones w/ the silver barb as I don't want to risk my EK nickel blocks.


Those are what I am prolly gonna order, the black chrome not green. Hopefully I get lucky also since I already have an EK Supremacy Nickel Plexi cpu block.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't think so. They all have come from PPCs. I have like 40 of them, and it is pretty much split down the middle. I'm guessing it is just an availability thing for the factory.


That could be. I would make sense that when they sleeve the cable they would put the stock connector back on. So they much have come that way from Nidec.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Do certain stores list the ones that have silver barbs?


From what I was told by another member, they made the switch and not much was relayed. I would contact the store you're looking to get them from and ask if they come with the silver barb. Its actually a silver barb to act as a biocide. Where as the old ones (like the ones I have) were brass fittings (painted/pc'd). EK blocks are known to have reactions with silver so its a risk I know extremely well and I don't want to repeat again. I'm running plain distilled in my loop. I've had no growth or issues running likes this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Those are what I am prolly gonna order, the black chrome not green. Hopefully I get lucky also since I already have an EK Supremacy Nickel Plexi cpu block.


I love their 90/45s but are a tad bit pricey. I'm a bit frugal with this hobby so i was lucky to find these 50% off through jab-tech.com. I think they may still have the chrome and gold ones in stock.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I love their 90/45s but are a tad bit pricey. I'm a bit frugal with this hobby so i was lucky to find these 50% off through jab-tech.com. I think they may still have the chrome and gold ones in stock.


Well shoot, just looked and they do have them in stock but I already placed the order through performance-pcs. And I don't know how to cancel the order


----------



## GAMERIG

My Sweetie WC Rig still running for almost two years!










I already fall in love with it since! =o)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I527 using Tapatalk


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Do certain stores list the ones that have silver barbs?


I do know Performance PCs has both Monsoon colored and silver type barb compressions on their shelves, they asked me "which ones do you want?" I got a 6-pack of silver inner barbs thinking it would benefit my loop of copper CPU block and copper brass radiator, was my decision wrong?

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6927_zps679a53da.jpg.html


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> PPCS has both Monsoon colored and silver type barb on their shelves, they asked me "which ones do you want?" I got a 6-pack of silver inner barbs thinking it would benefit my loop of copper CPU block and copper brass radiator, was my decision wrong?


You'll be fine. Aluminum is the evil metal that doesn't play well with others.









Edit: Just be careful of using biocides that may have a negative reaction from silver.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From what I was told by another member, they made the switch and not much was relayed. I would contact the store you're looking to get them from and ask if they come with the silver barb. Its actually a silver barb to act as a biocide. Where as the old ones (like the ones I have) were brass fittings (painted/pc'd). EK blocks are known to have reactions with silver so its a risk I know extremely well and I don't want to repeat again. I'm running plain distilled in my loop. I've had no growth or issues running likes this.
> I love their 90/45s but are a tad bit pricey. I'm a bit frugal with this hobby so i was lucky to find these 50% off through jab-tech.com. I think they may still have the chrome and gold ones in stock.


Well then i was going to use them and bitspower but i think i'm going to go all bitspower. I can't risk that because i'll be running nickel plated EK blocks as well.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You'll be fine. Aluminum is the evil metal that doesn't play well with others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Just be careful of using biocides that may have a negative reaction from silver.


Was just going with EK clear fluid and nothing else.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Was just going with EK clear fluid and nothing else.


Is this the coolant you're referring to? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-clear-premix-1000ml.html

I read this in the product description. "_Coolant is suitable for mixed copper, brass, steel, nickel and aluminum cooling loops, providing best value/performance ratio_".
It doesn't mention anything about silver in there, so I don't know. You may want to contact EK just for clarification. Unless someone here can provide some insite? @derickwm?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Something new from Alphatool.





http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2014/04/18/alphacool-to-3d-scan-gpus-to-make-waterbloc/1


----------



## skupples

That back plate is going to be an issue for the top slot on allot of mobo. Looks cool though. God knows Alphacool needed a waterblock overhaul.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Is this the coolant you're referring to? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-clear-premix-1000ml.html
> 
> I read this in the product description. "_Coolant is suitable for mixed copper, brass, steel, nickel and aluminum cooling loops, providing best value/performance ratio_".
> It doesn't mention anything about silver in there, so I don't know. You may want to contact EK just for clarification. Unless someone here can provide some insite? @derickwm?


Oh geez,

this one, I think it's the same, haven't bought it yet but almost ready.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1063&products_id=32223


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something new from Alphatool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2014/04/18/alphacool-to-3d-scan-gpus-to-make-waterbloc/1


Looks so nice.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something new from Alphatool.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2014/04/18/alphacool-to-3d-scan-gpus-to-make-waterbloc/1


"Alphatool?" lol Nice looking btw. They look like full cover heatsinks.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Alphacool claims the mosfets on the card will be cooled to the same level as they would be on an air cooled graphics card running its fan at full speed


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


Nice to see something new nonetheless! Lets see who'll be the first to waste their hard earned cash on these so that we may eye ball them like little school boys peeking in the girls locker room.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something new from Alphatool.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2014/04/18/alphacool-to-3d-scan-gpus-to-make-waterbloc/1


Similar to this


Too bad it wasn't ek coming out with this to use with their new beautiful universal blocks.
Been wanting that from ek for a while.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something new from Alphatool.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2014/04/18/alphacool-to-3d-scan-gpus-to-make-waterbloc/1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Alphatool?" lol Nice looking btw. They look like full cover heatsinks.
Click to expand...

Sometimes I think Alpha*stool* is a more fitting description.

D.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I do know Performance PCs has both Monsoon colored and silver type barb compressions on their shelves, they asked me "which ones do you want?" I got a 6-pack of silver inner barbs thinking it would benefit my loop of copper CPU block and copper brass radiator, was my decision wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6927_zps679a53da.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You'll be fine. Aluminum is the evil metal that doesn't play well with others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Just be careful of using biocides that may have a negative reaction from silver.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Well then i was going to use them and bitspower but i think i'm going to go all bitspower. I can't risk that because i'll be running nickel plated EK blocks as well.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Was just going with EK clear fluid and nothing else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Is this the coolant you're referring to? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-clear-premix-1000ml.html
> 
> I read this in the product description. "_Coolant is suitable for mixed copper, brass, steel, nickel and aluminum cooling loops, providing best value/performance ratio_".
> It doesn't mention anything about silver in there, so I don't know. You may want to contact EK just for clarification. Unless someone here can provide some insite? @derickwm?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Well shoot, just looked and they do have them in stock but I already placed the order through performance-pcs. And I don't know how to cancel the order
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

If you're going with any EK approved fluid (I believe its their stuff), you'll be covered by their warranty. Other wise, its a risk you'll have to take running silver and EK nickel plated blocks. MeanBruce mentioned he was asked which version he wanted so I guess some stores are aware and offering the option.

Going all BP is a great choice, though pricey







.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I have mayhems pastel coming in the mail, I asked a question about using silver over in the mayhems club. Haha yeah I know bitspower is pricey. I dropped about $150 on 14 male to male fittings because I was going to try threaded acrylic but my results were like yours so I'm going with normal tubing.


----------



## ASO7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Too bad it wasn't ek coming out with this to use with their new beautiful universal blocks.
> Been wanting that from ek for a while.


Same here.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I have mayhems pastel coming in the mail, I asked a question about using silver over in the mayhems club. Haha yeah I know bitspower is pricey. I dropped about $150 on 14 male to male fittings because I was going to try threaded acrylic but my results were like yours so I'm going with normal tubing.


i think the pastel comes with some biocides in the mix. Not 100% but I remember Mayhem's Mike saying something like this. Its bee almost a year since i ran pastel and its very lovely. Sadly, it will mask my X4 reservoir from FrozenQ so I'm sticking to distilled only.

BP compression fittings have to be the smoothest ones out there. Good stuff


----------



## Puck

Bah have to drain the hotside loop, flush it, and change my tubing but I'm so lazy and it takes forever x.x.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> i think the pastel comes with some biocides in the mix. Not 100% but I remember Mayhem's Mike saying something like this. Its bee almost a year since i ran pastel and its very lovely. Sadly, it will mask my X4 reservoir from FrozenQ so I'm sticking to distilled only.
> 
> BP compression fittings have to be the smoothest ones out there. Good stuff


Yeah, Pastel comes with Biocide and corrosion inhibitors mixed into the concentrate from the start. It's basically a full package deal going with Mayhems Pastel.

I think you should do what Lowfat did a while ago where he diluted Pastel to where it was semi-opaque, which would allow you to at least see the inside of your reservoir.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Do you need any biocides when using an all copper loop with distilled water?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Do you need any biocides when using an all copper loop with distilled water?


Yes. You'll need a biocide in that loop.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Do you need any biocides when using an all copper loop with distilled water?


You should always at least have some kind of biocide (Nuke/Dead Water or Silver kill coil, etc) in any watercooling loop so you don't grow organic matter. Many will also recommend some sort of corrosion inhibitor additive, but lots of people do run with just distilled/deionized + biocide.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You should always at least have some kind of biocide (Nuke/Dead Water or Silver kill coil, etc) in any watercooling loop so you don't grow organic matter. Many will also recommend some sort of corrosion inhibitor additive, but lots of people do run with just distilled/deionized + biocide.


Alright, are there any types that are recommended?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright, are there any types that are recommended?


For copper blocks, kill.coil (aka silver coil).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright, are there any types that are recommended?


Mayhem's is always highly recommended. It is a bit pricey, but well worth it. Biocide, anti-corrosion, and surfactant all rolled into one.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Alright, ill look into mayhems and kill coils. (still waiting on 5 ap-14's a coolermaster haf stacker case, and some wire sleeving







)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright, ill look into mayhems and kill coils. (still waiting on 5 ap-14's a coolermaster haf stacker case, and some wire sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


you don't need a kill coil if you run an additive based biocide.


----------



## Anoxy

Mayhem's X1 master race


----------



## SDMODNoob

Hey guys just curious for those who are running larger loops in cases of say the HAF Stacker or Caselabs STH10, do you find it harder to maintain those loops running acrylic because you have to completely drain your loop pretty much take it all apart? Would QDC's and flexible tubing be a better choice for swapping parts and maintenance? I was planning on maxing out a Mercury S8 with a pedestal and trying to see which type of loop would be easier to work with.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you don't need a kill coil if you run an additive based biocide.


Dyes have biocide? Didn't know that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Hey guys just curious for those who are running larger loops in cases of say the HAF Stacker or Caselabs STH10, do you find it harder to maintain those loops running acrylic because you have to completely drain your loop pretty much take it all apart? Would QDC's and flexible tubing be a better choice for swapping parts and maintenance? I was planning on maxing out a Mercury S8 with a pedestal and trying to see which type of loop would be easier to work with.


Any maintenance, you always want to drain your loop. No different running acrylic vs nylon/plastic tube. If you do things right, some loops can last a year with no issues. Most recommend maintenance every six months.

Large cases, like my STH10, give you a ton of space but weigh a ton. I think the S8 is the best compromise of getting a large or cube case vs a small/medium case.


----------



## skupples

*the moment when you realize you are short one AP-15.







*

anyone got one?


----------



## Death Dealer

This case FOREVER!


----------



## derickwm

I have exactly one AP-15 left skupps. $200. I'll even throw in shipping.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have exactly one AP-15 left skupps. $200. I'll even throw in shipping.


Wow Derick, that's so generous of you


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have exactly one AP-15 left skupps. $200. I'll even throw in shipping.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Wow Derick, that's so generous of you
Click to expand...

A steal!


----------



## derickwm

Tax free too! Hurry! This deal won't be around for long!


----------



## skupples

There are some on Ebay for $15, but they want 3 days processing, and only offer snail male. IE: 10 days to get it to my house.

The rest of them want $30-$50 a piece, oh then there is Amazon. They want ALL THE MONEY. Sigh, may have to deal with fleabay.


----------



## Neo Zuko

My decision to go with AP-14s paid off. I just picked up ten for normal prices. Plus I don't ever want to run them at 1850rpms (AP-15s) anyway. Win Win.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah I've never really run my AP-15s over 1450rpm anyway. Probably could have used AP-14s instead.


----------



## skupples

I run them @ 100% 24/7 for the most part. See, we have dual-AC, which means @least one unit is always running. Both units are right outside of my office window, this means I can barely hear my computer over that ruckus.


----------



## Anoxy

Does your system really put out so much heat that you need them all at 100% with that much rad space? Honest question. Or do you just do it because you can.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something new from Alphatool.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2014/04/18/alphacool-to-3d-scan-gpus-to-make-waterbloc/1


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does your system really put out so much heat that you need them all at 100% with that much rad space? Honest question. Or do you just do it because you can.


Mostly lazy. There was a definite gain in temps when dropping fan speed in the 900D, but i'm hoping the 3rd 480 will solve that problem. 5.0 3930k = lots of heat.

Kinda pathetic since I have an AQ6XT.... I should get better control this time since iv'e trimmed the fan splitter PCB boards so that the AQ6XT will actually report correct RPMs.


----------



## wermad

My decision to go w/ 30 Cougar 140s paid off! Its quiet and cool. Uhm....just like the 51 R4s, and the other setup, and the other one, ...
















Most of us have such overkill cooling that it won't matter what fans you run tbh







.

@ Skups, sell those ulgy GTs and get some lovely E-loops for the looks. 30 x $25 = $750. Small change for you and it will match your white Sth10


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah I've never really run my AP-15s over 1450rpm anyway. Probably could have used AP-14s instead.


I have mine now at 800 rpm,just for titanfall,i have ran them at full rpm once only to hear what they sounded like compared to my SP's....With it being autumn now i can keep them at 800rpm depending on games,come winter in another month and a half i will even try to drop them to a lower speed....


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I have mine now at 800 rpm,just for titanfall,i have ran them at full rpm once only to hear what they sounded like compared to my SP's....With it being autumn now i can keep them at 800rpm depending on games,come winter in another month and a half i will even try to drop them to a lower speed....


800 rpm is too loud. Put your AP-15s on 5v adapters which should run them along the lines of about 600rpm (give or take 50 rpm). It is unreal how silent they are at ultra-low rpms compared to other fans I've used (SP120s, Swiftech Helix, NF-F12 (which I regret trying this fan out and shelling out the money at Microcenter)). I literally can't hear them. The two loudest components in my rig right now are the NF-P14FLX and my D5 running on setting 1. And the Noctua is also running on a 5V line.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## phillyd

Silver will work together great with copper and nickel. The new Monsoon barbs will not cause any issues!


----------



## StampedTees

Here's my pc (and mac)

I've posted it's whole story elsewhere on the forums so I'll keep it brief here ..

It's definitely a mutt of most used WC componets bought here on the forums, thanks guys, still have a few upgrades to make .. most notably right now is I'd like to find a 200mm rad for the front instead of the 184 that's there right now (open to trade on that one) and I'd like to replace the pump/block on the cpu with an ek supremacy to match the video card ..

Otherwise super happy with it !

ASRock Z77 ITX board
GSkill Sniper 1866 2x4gb
3570k overclocked
Saphire 7950
1.5tb HDD
90gb Corsair Force 3
120gb Samsung Evo
Corsair CX600m psu

Using a late 2009 27" Imac as the screen running 1440x2560 res. The Imac has a core 2 duo with 16gb of ram and is definitely showing it's age.

Cooling is:
Corsair 600T Case with stock 200mm fans
184mm Black Ice GTX Rad with a custom plexi shroud to adapt it to the 200mm fan
120mm Black Ice Stealth Rad with single Corsair AF120 red led
Cpu block is the AIO pump from a TT system
EK DCP 2.6 pump
EK Spin bay res
EK Univ, supremacy GPU block, nickel/plexi
Swiftech 7950HD Heatsink with a Corsair AF120 Red led fan blowing on it
XSPC Red LCD with water temp probe
Clear 1/2:3/4" tubing with EK red liquid


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My decision to go w/ 30 Cougar 140s paid off! Its quiet and cool. Uhm....just like the 51 R4s, and the other setup, and the other one, ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of us have such overkill cooling that it won't matter what fans you run tbh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @ Skups, sell those ulgy GTs and get some lovely E-loops for the looks. 30 x $25 = $750. Small change for you and it will match your white Sth10


Mother of GOD you guys and your fans!~?! maybe I will understand one day but right now I don't. I am trying to have the lowest # possible without giving on temps. I'm down to 2 Noctua Ultra Silent 140mm Fan NF-P14 FLX and 2 Rosewill 80mm.


----------



## kingchris

she's back on water!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Silver will work together great with copper and nickel. The new Monsoon barbs will not cause any issues!


Yes. This is understood. The question is will EK's clear coolant mixture have any adverse effects with silver in a loop in conjunction with mixed metals?


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> Well, the old pump broke down, so at this point it would be tricky to do a comparison.
> 
> While I swapped the old pump out, I did a routine cleanup of the parts with vinegar solution and changed the tubing and also the reservoir, but the layout remained nearly identical (until I tried switching things around later on, to no avail). The pic in my rig portraits the setup with the old pump on.
> 
> The temperature difference might be less than 10c, but however considerable it is, it is significant enough to cause WHEA errors to appear in the Windows Event Log during gaming, which usually happens when the CPU temps creep towards 80c. If I recall correctly, the CPU temp didn't use to go much higher than about 70c with the old pump.


Do you run the pump at 100%? How many blocks do you have in your loop?

DDC pumps are intended for high restriction loops. If your loop isn't restrictive enough your pump will get very hot and add a lot of heat to the loop and it can potentially overheat and fail. Try running the pump at a lower setting. 40-60% should be enough flow for most loops.

You can also check out the EK DDC heatsink kit.


----------



## derickwm

If you use our EK-EKoolant you do not need silver or anything else.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you use our EK-EKoolant you do not need silver or anything else.


Right. @MeanBruce ordered some of the Monsoon fittings that have the silver barbs and is concerned about running EKoolant.


----------



## derickwm

Ohhh, uh well it's not something I recommend. Why did Monsoon start using silver for their fittings...


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

EKoolant user here.. No issues with it at all. I did drop in some PrimoChill UV Dye, and I am NOT impressed with it at all. I pu tan entire bottle in for aprroximately 1.25 Liters of Koolant, and it barely has an effect.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> . If your loop isn't restrictive enough your pump will get very hot and add a lot of heat to the loop and it can potentially overheat and fail. Try running the pump at a lower setting. 40-60% should be enough flow for most loops.
> 
> You can also check out the EK DDC heatsink kit.


no. a ddc is air cooled and adds no heat to a loop. the d5 is water cooled and adds that heat to a loop. but as you said, the ek ddc housing is an excellent choice for keeping cool though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I might have to take a look into ek's ddc pump accessories, want something to pulle heat off my mcp355 a bit better even though it seems to run mildly warm with it sitting in front of my front intake fans.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ohhh, uh well it's not something I recommend. *Why did Monsoon start using silver for their fittings...*


Many of us have asked the same thing. I can only assume they figured it would be regarded as a plus, but clearly not everyone thinks so.

I don't know if I'd want a silver fitting screwed into nickel, copper or brass threads on a block or a rad. There's enough of a difference in galvanic potential there between them that I would be worried about the direct contact regardless of whether a corrosion inhibiting coolant was used. A silver coil in a res or a tube is one thing, but direct metal to metal contact is another isn't it? Am I wrong to think that might be an issue?

edit: FWIW, Martin seems to think it would be something to worry about.


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Do you run the pump at 100%? How many blocks do you have in your loop?
> 
> DDC pumps are intended for high restriction loops. If your loop isn't restrictive enough your pump will get very hot and add a lot of heat to the loop and it can potentially overheat and fail. Try running the pump at a lower setting. 40-60% should be enough flow for most loops.
> 
> You can also check out the EK DDC heatsink kit.


It's on 12V and has no options for speed control. I have 2 blocks; gpu and cpu. The cpu block is a low end EK model (Supreme LTX), and the GPU block is a universal one (Alphacool HF 14), so a pretty standard setup, nothing too restrictive.

Could you further explain how would having a high performance pump in a low restriction loop harm the pumps performance?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Just ordered

1x Swiftech 360mm Quiet Power -k Rad
5x Gentle Typhoon AP-14
1x Wire Sleeving Kit
1x Cooler Master Glacer 240l Expandable
1x Cooler Master Haf Stacker 935
1x Silver Kill Coil
A Crap Ton of swiftech Barbs
10ft of Primoflex UV red tubing

Can't wait to start my first custom loop!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ohhh, uh well it's not something I recommend. *Why did Monsoon start using silver for their fittings...*
> 
> 
> 
> Many of us have asked the same thing. I can only assume they figured it would be regarded as a plus, but clearly not everyone thinks so.
> 
> I don't know if I'd want a silver fitting screwed into nickel, copper or brass threads on a block or a rad. There's enough of a difference in galvanic potential there between them that I would be worried about the direct contact regardless of whether a corrosion inhibiting coolant was used. A silver coil in a res or a tube is one thing, but direct metal to metal contact is another isn't it? Am I wrong to think that might be an issue?
> 
> edit: FWIW, Martin seems to think it would be something to worry about.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

Silver coils in the res is one side but direct electrical contact is something else entirely.
My concern is the fitting 'welding' itself in more than anything else....


----------



## CrSt3r

Congrats !!!









But let me tell you, you will never stop from now on ... i just Keep ordering stuff and adding things to the Loop i like or which seems usefull.
Last Thing was the GPU-Block ... but now i am not sure if the temps of the coolant stay in a desirable range. So i had to order some temp sensors and a fan Controller, to ramp up the fans if needed


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> Congrats !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But let me tell you, you will never stop from now on ... i just Keep ordering stuff and adding things to the Loop i like or which seems usefull.
> Last Thing was the GPU-Block ... but now i am not sure if the temps of the coolant stay in a desirable range. So i had to order some temp sensors and a fan Controller, to ramp up the fans if needed


True story.. I want to order some LED Fittings and Bigger Fittings/Tubing, as well as Clear.. It's a Never ending cycle of Fun.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far the most addicting hobby I've picked up lol. Compared to modding my cars my PC comes first , also I think on what parts I want next over buying new games for my consoles lol.


----------



## CrSt3r

i will NOT Change the Diameter of my tubing ... These Fittings were to damn expensive xD

EDIT: Hate my autocorrect ... capital letters everywhere, where they dont belong !


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So far the most addicting hobby I've picked up lol. Compared to modding my cars my PC comes first , also I think on what parts I want next over buying new games for my consoles lol.


Agreed, only bad thing for me is I am also addicted to buying art supplies for my art hobby. Having two hobbies that are not cheap is not easy since I really like both. I easily one time spent over 300+ dollars on just canvases one day in a art store.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> i will NOT Change the Diameter of my tubing ... These Fittings were to damn expensive xD
> 
> EDIT: Hate my autocorrect ... capital letters everywhere, where they dont belong !


I know the feeling with the pricing of the fittings. I just looked, and with 16 Fittings, I would have to spend $120 at least... and I forgot about the two Barbed fittings I use... so... probably 130 total. I want to change them, but until I can offload some of the excess stuff I have, I wont make another expensive move. I currently have 4 Koolance QD3's (Full set unused) because I wanted to be able to take things in and out... But I didn't leave room for them, or like the idea of giant loops just to fit them in somewhere in the build, so I decided against them.. Now, they collect dust.


----------



## derickwm

I just bought enough fittings to put the finishing touches on Classy and hopefully enough to finish Aldri. Bank account is very unhappy.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

im using some swiftech barb fittings. I ordered 20 and they were all half off at jab-tech.









Now to wait for my parts to arrive, and find a 770 waterblock...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> im using some swiftech barb fittings. I ordered 20 and they were all half off at jab-tech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to wait for my parts to arrive, and find a 770 waterblock...


hopefully they work out better than the swiftech fittings I've used. I just tired down my loop. Only the swiftech fittings had build up on them kinda strange. Thy are like gunk magnets.

Bran did say they were moving to a new coating process. Anodized instead of powder coat.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hopefully they work out better than the swiftech fittings I've used. I just tired down my loop. Only the swiftech fittings had build up on them kinda strange. Thy are like gunk magnets.
> 
> Bran did say they were moving to a new coating process. Anodized instead of powder coat.


oh god...were they these fittings? http://www.jab-tech.com/metal-barb-fittings-1/2/swiftech-1/2-barb-black-g1-4x1-2-barb-bk/


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Do you run the pump at 100%? How many blocks do you have in your loop?
> 
> DDC pumps are intended for high restriction loops. If your loop isn't restrictive enough your pump will get very hot and add a lot of heat to the loop and it can potentially overheat and fail. Try running the pump at a lower setting. 40-60% should be enough flow for most loops.
> 
> You can also check out the EK DDC heatsink kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> It's on 12V and has no options for speed control. I have 2 blocks; gpu and cpu. The cpu block is a low end EK model (Supreme LTX), and the GPU block is a universal one (Alphacool HF 14), so a pretty standard setup, nothing too restrictive.
> 
> Could you further explain how would having a high performance pump in a low restriction loop harm the pumps performance?
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I think you're right about the pump dumping a lot of heat into the water. The reservoir and rad are super hot to the touch and cpu temps are 80c during gaming. I can't really return the pump as it's not really defective, so I suppose I'll have to grab an extra 240 rad to add to the loop. Thanks for the advice none the less.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Agreed, only bad thing for me is I am also addicted to buying art supplies for my art hobby. Having two hobbies that are not cheap is not easy since I really like both. I easily one time spent over 300+ dollars on just canvases one day in a art store.


That's when you buy canvas by the roll and stretch it yourself







but yeah between my camera, car and PC it's gotten pretty pricey.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

What do you guys suggest i get for 10 bucks on amazon? I just got a gift card for amazon, so idk what to get. Maybe a drain valve? idk


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ohhh, uh well it's not something I recommend. Why did Monsoon start using silver for their fittings...


Because they act as kill coils.

I'll see if Monsoon will run a test on this.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Because they act as kill coils.
> 
> I'll see if Monsoon will run a test on this.


I'm guessing because it ends up being cheaper for them this way, now they only need one barb per tube diameter instead of one per color. I don't think it's anything else that went into the choice.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I'm guessing because it ends up being cheaper for them this way, now they only need one barb per tube diameter instead of one per color. I don't think it's anything else that went into the choice.


If they were just cheaping out don't you think they would've picked one anodizing color and left it at that? Silver plating costs some money.


----------



## CrSt3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I know the feeling with the pricing of the fittings. I just looked, and with 16 Fittings, I would have to spend $120 at least... and I forgot about the two Barbed fittings I use... so... probably 130 total. I want to change them, but until I can offload some of the excess stuff I have, I wont make another expensive move. I currently have 4 Koolance QD3's (Full set unused) because I wanted to be able to take things in and out... But I didn't leave room for them, or like the idea of giant loops just to fit them in somewhere in the build, so I decided against them.. Now, they collect dust.










... 120$ for 16 Fittings ?!









I had to pay anywhere from 13,90€ - 18,90€ for ONE Fitting







... but its bitspower and some 3-rotary ... so i guess its fine.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I struggled with silver in the Monsoon fittings myself. My google research on silver in modern loops is inconclusive. But why use a variable you don't have to? Of course you could chemically strip the silver yourself. Ultimately I decided to simply switch brands for the peace of mind factor. Sorry Monsoon.


----------



## VSG

All I can say is that you email Gene if you have an issue with this decision of theirs. Perhaps if more people email him, he will finally respond to this.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> If they were just cheaping out don't you think they would've picked one anodizing color and left it at that? Silver plating costs some money.


But overall, it would still be less expensive and cut down on overhead inventory, as they have less barbs to stock. Having run retail etc for over 15 years, I've seen companies do things like that. I didn't say they cheaped out, I said they cut costs. And I guarantee it ended up being less expensive for them, or pricing would have gone up at the same time.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> It's on 12V and has no options for speed control. I have 2 blocks; gpu and cpu. The cpu block is a low end EK model (Supreme LTX), and the GPU block is a universal one (Alphacool HF 14), so a pretty standard setup, nothing too restrictive.
> 
> Could you further explain how would having a high performance pump in a low restriction loop harm the pumps performance?


do you have a good fan controller? you can control the pumps speed that way.
because the pump is running full bore-all out it eats electricity and spits it out as heat. since its air cooled it has too have a steady and continuous airflow over it. easiest way to put it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> I think you're right about the pump dumping a lot of heat into the water. The reservoir and rad are super hot to the touch and cpu temps are 80c during gaming. I can't really return the pump as it's not really defective, so I suppose I'll have to grab an extra 240 rad to add to the loop. Thanks for the advice none the less.


the pump does NOT dump its heat into the water. slowing it down may help water temps. something else is wrong/not right somewhere in your loop. it isnt the pump dumping heat into it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> It's on 12V and has no options for speed control. I have 2 blocks; gpu and cpu. The cpu block is a low end EK model (Supreme LTX), and the GPU block is a universal one (Alphacool HF 14), so a pretty standard setup, nothing too restrictive.
> 
> Could you further explain how would having a high performance pump in a low restriction loop harm the pumps performance?
> 
> 
> 
> do you have a good fan controller? you can control the pumps speed that way.
> because the pump is running full bore-all out it eats electricity and spits it out as heat. since its air cooled it has too have a steady and continuous airflow over it. easiest way to put it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> I think you're right about the pump dumping a lot of heat into the water. The reservoir and rad are super hot to the touch and cpu temps are 80c during gaming. I can't really return the pump as it's not really defective, so I suppose I'll have to grab an extra 240 rad to add to the loop. Thanks for the advice none the less.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *the pump does NOT dump its heat into the water.* slowing it down may help water temps. something else is wrong/not right somewhere in your loop. it isnt the pump dumping heat into it.
Click to expand...

Correct.

DDC's are aircooled,not watercooled like D5's


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> do you have a good fan controller? you can control the pumps speed that way.
> because the pump is running full bore-all out it eats electricity and spits it out as heat. since its air cooled it has too have a steady and continuous airflow over it. easiest way to put it.
> the pump does NOT dump its heat into the water. slowing it down may help water temps. something else is wrong/not right somewhere in your loop. it isnt the pump dumping heat into it.


All my fans are plugged straight to the PSU, so no fan controller.

I understand the pump is air cooled, but if the entire pump is warm, which it is, then it must (more or less) warm up the water passing through it as well.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> All my fans are plugged straight to the PSU, so no fan controller.
> 
> I understand the pump is air cooled, but if the entire pump is warm, which it is, then it must (more or less) warm up the water passing through it as well.


If the pump was warming the water, then the water would be cooling the pump.









DDCs definitely dump zero heat in to the loop. All the heat from DDC is coming from the PCB, at the very bottom of the pump. It doesn't go anywhere near the water. The entire plastic casing will be warm because plastic is an insulator. Adding a heatsink to the DDC will mot affect water temperatures. But it will make the pump more reliable.


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If the pump was warming the water, then the water would be cooling the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDCs definitely dump zero heat in to the loop. All the heat from DDC is coming from the PCB, at the very bottom of the pump. It doesn't go anywhere near the water. The entire plastic casing will be warm because plastic is an insulator. Adding a heatsink to the DDC will mot affect water temperatures. But it will make the pump more reliable.


I'm all out of ideas then. Having done a remount several times, I know for sure it isn't a contact problem, so somehow more heat is being dumped into the loop than it can get rid of. All air has been bled out and the parts have been cleaned.

Perhaps I simply haven't been gaming as much lately and now a longer World of Tanks marathon causes it to overheat, since anything under 1h and the temps stay relatively in check.


----------



## wermad

The thing it's we have seen new nickel blocks deteriorate when using silver. Most notably EK and Koolance. Not picking on either but just sending a word of caution. Both companies have their prescribed cooling and biocides that are covered by their warranties.

I bought the remaining 36 green monsoons from jab-tech







and got lucky they were all brass. As I said, I'm running just plain distilled, no biocides, with my nine ek nickel blocks.

Thinking of going with two loops







. Now to find another green x4 reservoir.


----------



## pc-illiterate

@Fulvin so your loop goes pump>gpu>cpu>rad>res, correct?
what res is that? how is it connected to the pump top? which pump top is it?

have you posted pics in this thread? i dont see any. show us your loop and give us some loop details.


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> @Fulvin so your loop goes pump>gpu>cpu>rad>res, correct?
> what res is that? how is it connected to the pump top? which pump top is it?
> 
> have you posted pics in this thread? i dont see any. show us your loop and give us some loop details.


The pump has no aftermarket top, only 10mm barbs into which the tubing routes from the res. For coolant, there's deionized water with some drops of biocide. To be clear, I have had this loop in this same configuration for over six months now, but only lately have the temps seen a slight rise, that causes instability with my cpu overclock. I'm not even certain that it is caused by the new pump, but that's all I can think of right now. It might all just be in between my ears.

I had had the new pump in a horizontal position on the case floor previously, but due to the odd temps, I tilted it in a 90 degree angle and switched to the bay reservoir from the 450ml tube res, but that didn't really do anything, but regardless, that's how it's configured at the moment.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is how the setup was before the pump failed. I had no errors occur back then, with the old EK DCP 4.0 pump and a 450ml tube res.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright, ill look into mayhems and kill coils. (still waiting on 5 ap-14's a coolermaster haf stacker case, and some wire sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Been reading the Mayhems forum and sounds like the XT-1 works the same as the X1 but the XT-1 makes three liters and the X1 makes 2 liters, so the XT-1 is more cost effective as it has everything you need in it, biocides and inhibitors.


----------



## MeanBruce

My little custom AIO will consist of:

XSPC CPU block (copper contacting silver)
XSPC RX360 v3 (brass ends contacting silver)
EK x-top pump top (acetal and silver)
Monsoon Fittings 6 total (silver plated), not certain if any nickel will contact the inner loop
EK clear fluid

Hoping not to encounter any galvanic issues, could always open the loop after the first 30days and take a look.

Actually bought the silver fittings thinking the silver color was nickel plating minus the color layer, I couldn't understand the need for a color layer with solid tubing. Nowhere on the Monsoon sight does it mention actual silver plating.









Kpoeticg told me it was actual silver after receiving an affirmative from Monsoon via email.

Thanks for the important information, you guys are so awesome.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no. a ddc is air cooled and adds no heat to a loop. the d5 is water cooled and adds that heat to a loop. but as you said, the ek ddc housing is an excellent choice for keeping cool though.


Wrong. It does add heat to your water. I have 2 DDC 3.2 pumps and have thoroughly tested both. I made a small test loop with no heat sources such as GPU/CPU with about 300ml of DI. The water got surprisingly warm and the pump itself was hot enough to burn your fingers. I didn't test it further as I was scared of it overheating and failing. According to dazmode about 2% of the DDC pumps sold overheat and fail.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> It's on 12V and has no options for speed control. I have 2 blocks; gpu and cpu. The cpu block is a low end EK model (Supreme LTX), and the GPU block is a universal one (Alphacool HF 14), so a pretty standard setup, nothing too restrictive.
> 
> Could you further explain how would having a high performance pump in a low restriction loop harm the pumps performance?


It's better to run a Liang DDC either slowly or with a lot of restriction. It's not too much restriction that overheats it, it's running it too fast. The DDC circuitry overheats at high speed and it can wear out the impeller. You want just enough flow to provide turbulence, and no more.

In watercooling after a certain amount of flow in your loop, flow will become indifferent. For example; I run my DDC pump at 30% because testing showed no temp changes when I increased the flow any further. So the trick is to find that sweetspot for your loop.

I suggest you buy a molex voltage controller for your pump so you can undervolt it. This should solve your problem


----------



## Pimphare

@MeanBruce
Just remember to report back in 30+ days with your findings!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Wrong. It does add heat to your water. I have 2 DDC 3.2 pumps and have thoroughly tested both. I made a small test loop with no heat sources such as GPU/CPU with about 300ml of DI. The water got surprisingly warm and the pump itself was hot enough to burn your fingers.


The only reason it was dumping heat in the water was because the entire pump body was likely so bloody hot. In normal conditions this will not happen. If the plastic was hot enough to burn, imaging what the PCB was running at. You are lucky you didn't burn one of the pumps out doing this. Even running a single DDC without restriction in the loop is enough to burn the pump out.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Been reading the Mayhems forum and sounds like the XT-1 works the same as the X1 but the XT-1 makes three liters and the X1 makes 2 liters, so the XT-1 is more cost effective as it has everything you need in it, biocides and inhibitors.


One of them is glycol based.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> One of them is glycol based.


XT-1 is Glycol based.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The only reason it was dumping heat in the water was because the entire pump body was likely so bloody hot. In normal conditions this will not happen. If the plastic was hot enough to burn, imaging what the PCB was running at. You are lucky you didn't burn one of the pumps out doing this. Even running a single DDC without restriction in the loop is enough to burn the pump out.


It was the bottom of the pump that got about 60C°. It was in a controlled testing environment and the chance of the pump overheating and failing were about 0.1%. No luck involved.

Quite similar to this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Le3z6kWHf2I


----------



## lowfat

Damn that Feser top is ugly. I can see why it never make it out in the real world.


----------



## pc-illiterate

sorry but you lost all but 0.01% credibility when you said this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> the chance of the pump overheating and failing were about 0.1%.


attempt this experiment again and take video footage. i would love to know how many hours it takes for a ddc running full tilt to raise water 1*C without the pump failing. you may as well use some kind of temp probe on the pump housing also. it would be good information to add to the ddc information archive.

i had more typed but i wont post it as some may consider it bashing. i will just say, DDC PUMPS DO NOT ADD HEAT TO A LOOP. do your experiment again and get video proof because without proof you have nothing. make sure you use your 10 ounces of water also.

*EDIT*
the reason i brought up the 10 ounces is because a ddc 3.2 running full tilt recirculates that entire 300ml in about 2 seconds.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> sorry but you lost all but 0.01% credibility when you said this:
> attempt this experiment again and take video footage. i would love to know how many hours it takes for a ddc running full tilt to raise water 1*C without the pump failing. you may as well use some kind of temp probe on the pump housing also. it would be good information to add to the ddc information archive.
> 
> i had more typed but i wont post it as some may consider it bashing. i will just say, DDC PUMPS DO NOT ADD HEAT TO A LOOP. do your experiment again and get video proof because without proof you have nothing. make sure you use your 10 ounces of water also.
> 
> *EDIT*
> the reason i brought up the 10 ounces is because a ddc 3.2 running full tilt recirculates that entire 300ml in about 2 seconds.


Why? Like I mentioned I was there and I would shut it down if it would get anywhere close to hot.

I don't understand why you think I'm lying. Do you honestly believe that the water will not pick up any heat from a pump that is known to be hot at low restriction loops? Especially considering it's size? And the fact that multiple companies make aftermarket heatsinks?

Anyways, no hard feelings. Let's keep this mature.


----------



## Devildog83

Hey,
I am going to order watercooling parts next week to install in a new 750D build, I was looking at some 750D W/C builds and I noticed that using rigid tubing the 3/8 ID 1/2 in OD looked rather slight or slim. My Question is - with a D5 pump is it OK to use 1/2 x 5/8 and is there any flow or pressure issues either way? I am thinking the 1/2 x 5/8 would look better. Also is there any fitting issues are both used regularly?

Edit: Also what fittings are recommended, is there a best or does it matter except for looks?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> And the fact that multiple companies make aftermarket heatsinks?


The heatsinks are made specifically because water is not cooling the PCB. If heat is being dumped in to the loop by the pump, then the pump has to be getting cooled by the coolant. Manufacturers would have no need to make a heatsink for it if this were true.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The heatsinks are made specifically because water is not cooling the PCB. If heat is being dumped in to the loop by the pump, then the pump has to be getting cooled by the coolant. Manufacturers would have no need to make a heatsink for it if this were true.


This is correct and the reason why we make a heat sink for our DDC pumps. The amount of heat that gets dissipated by coolant is minimal compared to what's dissipated by the air. This is why a heat sink is necessary for these pumps in certain situations. In a fairly restrictive loop, or when the pump is run at low speed, it isn't necessary because the pump isn't spinning fast enough to overheat.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something new from Alphatool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2014/04/18/alphacool-to-3d-scan-gpus-to-make-waterbloc/1


That's a genius design. I'm surprised something like that hasn't come out sooner!


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> XT-1 is Glycol based.


and it's suppose to be at safe levels or non toxic.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The thing it's we have seen new nickel blocks deteriorate when using silver. Most notably EK and Koolance. Not picking on either but just sending a word of caution. Both companies have their prescribed cooling and biocides that are covered by their warranties.
> 
> I bought the remaining 36 green monsoons from jab-tech
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and got lucky they were all brass. As I said, I'm running just plain distilled, no biocides, with my nine ek nickel blocks.
> 
> Thinking of going with two loops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now to find another green x4 reservoir.


Turns out the old stock on Jab-tech at 50% off is a bigger deal than we thought then. Even my 2 sets are the older stock with the barbs matching compression rings.



Definitely go for 2 loops, or at least 2 reservoirs feeding the pump(s) in parallel if you have space left over in the STH10.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> That's a genius design. I'm surprised something like that hasn't come out sooner!


is it bad I would probably rock one of those in a PS theme build


----------



## Doc3379

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


LMAO


----------



## MeanBruce

Ugh.

There must be a reason Monsoon moved to silver plating, biocide effects.

I'll probably only lose 3nights sleep this week out of 7 worrying about it.

2nd Ugh.

Very Happy Easter Everyone.









...


----------



## salted_cashews

The only picture that seemed to somewhat focus on my potato.

The build is pretty much a whore, I think I have something from about 80 percent of the brands in there.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salted_cashews*
> 
> 
> 
> The only picture that seemed to somewhat focus on my potato.
> 
> The build is pretty much a whore, I think I have something from about 80 percent of the brands in there.


This is Nice! I may have to get a new Parallel block, as well as CPU Block... I didn't originally like the look of clear blocks, but this one looks nice.


----------



## salted_cashews

Thanks, I was seriously considering sanding it back to clear to match the ram block but that didn't happen, after having it on air for a couple of months I just wanted the damned thing back together.

Also just an FYI not that it matters too much here as you all do your own sleeving but the bit-fenix extensions for 8 pin and 6 pin are slightly different shades of red, that somewhat annoyed me.

Here is another pic of the whole thing.



I'm thinking I'm going to have to jump on the DSLR bandwagon come tax refund time.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Anyone know a good light source for a res? I am looking at:

ModMyToys: (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16719/lit-324/ModMyToys_Acrylic_LED_G14_Plug_-_White_LED_White_Sleeve_MMT-LEDG14PLUG-WH-WH.html?tl=g30c101s743&id=oHjjerxS&mv_pc=3554)

Primo Chill: (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21655/ex-tub-2077w/Primochill_G14_Tower_Stop_Plug_w_5mm_White_LED_Secure_Hold_-_2_.html?tl=g30c101s743&id=oHjjerxS&mv_pc=3915)

or Frozen CPU: (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6938/ex-tub-166/FrozenCPU_Lighted_Crystal_LED_Plug_-_White_-_4_Pin.html?tl=g30c101s743&id=oHjjerxS&mv_pc=3528)

I have not looked anywhere else, and I am not worried if the glow is over the top. I am just basically lookign to provide a little bit of a glow inside case.


----------



## johnnybra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Anyone know a good light source for a res? I am looking at:
> 
> ModMyToys: (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16719/lit-324/ModMyToys_Acrylic_LED_G14_Plug_-_White_LED_White_Sleeve_MMT-LEDG14PLUG-WH-WH.html?tl=g30c101s743&id=oHjjerxS&mv_pc=3554)
> 
> Primo Chill: (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21655/ex-tub-2077w/Primochill_G14_Tower_Stop_Plug_w_5mm_White_LED_Secure_Hold_-_2_.html?tl=g30c101s743&id=oHjjerxS&mv_pc=3915)
> 
> or Frozen CPU: (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6938/ex-tub-166/FrozenCPU_Lighted_Crystal_LED_Plug_-_White_-_4_Pin.html?tl=g30c101s743&id=oHjjerxS&mv_pc=3528)
> 
> I have not looked anywhere else, and I am not worried if the glow is over the top. I am just basically lookign to provide a little bit of a glow inside case.


It seems like modmytoys light spread the light much better than the other two options. I would take that.

I sleeved my extensions, but i cant sew it correctly. That's my best



The pic is taked with a scratched mobile camera so sorry for the poor quality


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is correct and the reason why we make a heat sink for our DDC pumps. The amount of heat that gets dissipated by coolant is minimal compared to what's dissipated by the air. This is why a heat sink is necessary for these pumps in certain situations. *In a fairly restrictive loop, or when the pump is run at low speed, it isn't necessary because the pump isn't spinning fast enough to overheat.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Wrong. It does add heat to your water. I have 2 DDC 3.2 pumps and have thoroughly tested both. I made a small test loop with no heat sources such as GPU/CPU with about 300ml of DI. The water got surprisingly warm and the pump itself was hot enough to burn your fingers. I didn't test it further as I was scared of it overheating and failing. According to dazmode about 2% of the DDC pumps sold overheat and fail.
> It's better to run a Liang DDC either slowly or with a lot of restriction. *It's not too much restriction that overheats it, it's running it too fast. The DDC circuitry overheats at high speed and it can wear out the impeller.* You want just enough flow to provide turbulence, and no more.
> 
> In watercooling after a certain amount of flow in your loop, flow will become indifferent. For example; I run my DDC pump at 30% because testing showed no temp changes when I increased the flow any further. So the trick is to find that sweetspot for your loop.
> 
> I suggest you buy a molex voltage controller for your pump so you can undervolt it. This should solve your problem


Thanks, I did not know that. I will either do a 7V molex or buy a fan controller. The entire pump assembly is very warm if you cup it in your hand after gaming and not just the PCB side of the pump.


----------



## VSG

Swiftech Apogee XL up on their website for $65: http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeXL.aspx#tab1


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech Apogee XL up on their website for $65: http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeXL.aspx#tab1


Why do i get the feeling that performs badly....

It doesnt look like an impingement block to me. Does anyone have this block?


----------



## VSG

Pretty much just released, Swiftech claims lower restriction leading to a larger overall flow rate and up to a 1 C better temps on average over the Apogee HD so not much to brag about. I figure they are lining this up to match looks with their upcoming Komodo blocks.


----------



## sinnedone

Hey guys, a quick question about the temperature probes on fan controllers.

Can you take a say bits power threaded temp sensor and split it to different channels on a fan controller or will that lower the resistance and change the actual temp reading?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hey guys, a quick question about the temperature probes on fan controllers.
> 
> Can you take a say bits power threaded temp sensor and split it to different channels on a fan controller or will that lower the resistance and change the actual temp reading?


Why would you need to display the same temp twice?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pretty much just released, Swiftech claims lower restriction leading to a larger overall flow rate and up to a 1 C better temps on average over the Apogee HD so not much to brag about. I figure they are lining this up to match looks with their upcoming Komodo blocks.


The looks are.....subjective. I dont like the lighty up bits myself.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why would you need to display the same temp twice?


No, but want to automate fan speed based on water temp and fans would be on separate channels.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hey guys, a quick question about the temperature probes on fan controllers.
> 
> Can you take a say bits power threaded temp sensor and split it to different channels on a fan controller or will that lower the resistance and change the actual temp reading?
> 
> 
> 
> Why would you need to display the same temp twice?
Click to expand...

Probably not to 'display' but rather to be able to automatically control the fan speeds on multiple channels from a single temp sensor, which is something most fan controllers can't do. I think an Aquaero probably can, but, for example, a Lamptron CW611 or an FC Touch is supposed to have a separate temp sensor for each channel.

You might need Darlene (IT Diva) or someone else with the electrical skills/know-how to say for certain, but I'm going to say 'No' you won't be able to split a temp sensor to multiple channels like that. A temp sensor doesn't send voltage to a fan controller, it responds to voltage sent by the controller. You would have multiple channels feeding the same sensor. I don't know exactly how temp sensors work, I suspect they operate in a certain resistance range that changes slightly with temperatures or some such, but despite my lack of understanding of the complexities it just doesn't seem like a very good idea to me. I suspect you could burn out the temp sensor or worse, damage your fan controller, or, at the very least I think it would not yield a correct/useable reading by any of the channels.

Just doesn't seem worth it to me. Temp sensors are pretty cheap.


----------



## sinnedone

Same here as far as understanding electrical circuits, but if it's a resistor it would probably wind up changing the resistance and not working.

Hey now... These things ain't cheap. Lol

I'm on the last stages of finishing the planning and parts purchasing of my first ever completely custom water cooling build and these fittings ain't cheap. Probably gonna spend like 400 on fittings and if the wife finds out I'm dead. Lol not really but yall know.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well most standard temp sensors are 10k resistors. So if you have a multimeter and some resistors laying around, it should be easy enough to figure out. Split it like you plan to, and measure the resistance with a multimeter. Maybe it's as simple as adding a 5k resistor on each split.

When i noticed that my rads outlet was like 1/2*C higher than it's inlet, i ended up measuring all my Phobya Inline Sensors. They ranged from like 8.6k - 11.8k. So it's always best to calibrate your sensors anyway if you have something like an aquaero. Just turn on the controller without turning on the fans or pump and make sure all temp sensors are the same temperature (after it's been powered down for a while)


----------



## sinnedone

Hmm, maybe. I probably have some resistors somewhere to test.

If it's not a viable solution to split sensor leads it might make more sense financially to go with a higher end controller that will be able to handle more fans per header.


----------



## kpoeticg

I always tell people to spring for the Aquaero









Once you get one, it makes it hard to consider running a loop without one


----------



## sinnedone

Lol, well for now the 2 I am looking at is either the bitfenix recon or aquaero 5 LT.(the circuit board only one)

I'm really just looking for something that can be controlled through software since it won't be seen.

The cheaper route being the recon but at a 10w per channel will limit me to only 2 fans per channel. I'm going to be using cougar. 30amp fans. Hence where the original question came from. In the end if I would have to purchase different temp sensors the 5 LT might be a better choice.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The looks are.....subjective. I dont like the lighty up bits myself.


Ya, it's not my cup of tea either but I can see where this has an audience.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Same here as far as understanding electrical circuits, but if it's a resistor it would probably wind up changing the resistance and not working.
> 
> *Hey now... These things ain't cheap. Lol*
> 
> I'm on the last stages of finishing the planning and parts purchasing of my first ever completely custom water cooling build and these fittings ain't cheap. Probably gonna spend like 400 on fittings and if the wife finds out I'm dead. Lol not really but yall know.


What kind of sensors do you have that you don't consider 'pretty cheap'?

Assuming you mean liquid coolant temp sensors, as air temp sensors are even less expensive still, I know I have have a dozen of them around with only about half of them in use. Considering what all we typically spend on other watercooling items, They are definitely among the cheapest items I've bought for any of my builds. I've shelled out a LOT more for the fittings, for the fans, for the tubing, for sleeving, and certainly for a fan controller or a pump or blocks or rads. I really can't think of much of anything I've added to a build cheaper than a few temp sensors. Are we even talking about the same thing?


----------



## sinnedone

Yeah same thing. I was looking at the bitspower ones at the top in black. Now if I go with a recon that's limited by the number of fans per channel then I would need 5 or an extra 50 bucks just to have it work like I want.

I also saw a phobya temp/flow meter that looked interesting as well, but that was around 30 dollars and would real get expensive then.


----------



## oelkanne

so now asking the pro´s in here...black or silver...


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Flat Black







The silver is too flashy


----------



## Puunh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> so now asking the pro´s in here...black or silver...


Black. OR YELLOWWWWW


----------



## oelkanne

why Yellow??? that doesnt fit anywhere in here=) them is black silver...cause the top rad ia a watercool 480 with silver side´s


----------



## darwing

Hey Guys if you want to watch a start to finish build grab some popcorn and check out my latest build, this has been nominated for mod of the month and am really happy with the outcome







let me know what you think









Build Log - Project Glacier


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fulvin*
> 
> Thanks, I did not know that. I will either do a 7V molex or buy a fan controller. The entire pump assembly is very warm if you cup it in your hand after gaming and not just the PCB side of the pump.


If you're using a PWM version of the pump, reducing the voltage isn't going to work very well. The pump likely won't even start.


----------



## Fulvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you're using a PWM version of the pump, reducing the voltage isn't going to work very well. The pump likely won't even start.


Mine is the non PWM version.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech Apogee XL up on their website for $65: http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeXL.aspx#tab1


I am getting one, that will look nice on my ROG board.

It looks like I will be going with EK rigid 12mm x 16mm tubing and fittings and a UT 45 360mm rad to start.


----------



## Gabrielzm

skupples, after the generous offer from Derick







about one ap15 I have to say I have about 8 or 10 of them laying around (all sleeved in black). However, i don't think the shipping from Brazil to you in US will be worth but if you are not in a hurry within one or two months I might have someone to carry it to US in person and post to you from NY or CA.

In any case there are some other models left in FZCPU and PPC.

Cheers

Don't quite like it the new Apogee block. Sort of transformers look to me without Megan visual







....


----------



## skupples

@Gabrielzm Thank you for your generosity! I'm just going to fleabay it if i don't find one around these parts in the next 24 hours.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

I'd rather have the AP-14's. Got 5 of em on amazon for 18 bucks a piece


----------



## skupples

I regret not going with all 3,000RPM PWM Typhoons.


----------



## Gabrielzm

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I regret not going with all 3,000RPM PWM Typhoons.


Sell the ones you have and buy new ones. Presto, problem solved


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Hey guys, i got a 10 dollar amazon gift card from a friend. What is the best thing I could buy with it?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Hey guys, i got a 10 dollar amazon gift card from a friend. What is the best thing I could buy with it?


a massive bag of sugar free gummy bears.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> a massive bag of sugar free gummy bears.


I was thinking more along the lines of pc parts, but still a good idea if i can't think of anything else


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> a massive bag of sugar free gummy bears.


Lol, that's like having coitus without a Big "O".


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, that's like having coitus without a Big "O".


I see watcha did there


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I regret not going with all 3,000RPM PWM Typhoons.


Trust me,you dont.

At equal speeds,the grey typhoons beat them quite handily.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Trust me,you dont.
> 
> At equal speeds,the grey typhoons beat them quite handily.


yep, I remember a test done comparing both. I think was on Martinliquidlab. In any case I am not sure why pwm versions of the Gentle Typhoons are not usually found in US/Europe markets only in Chinese sites... While many folks would I sure prefer the normal regular voltage controlled GTs I can see interest in PWM versions of those.

*EDIT- Yep, here we go: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/28/r9-fan-testing-gentle-typhoon-ap-29/*


----------



## skupples

So, here is why Cool Labs Liquid Ultra should not be used with Copper blocks. (Note, it works fine with nickel plating)





Physically pitted. Just wanted to show, as it was discussed a few weeks back.

blame it on the ga ahh ahah ga ga gallium


----------



## phillyd

Darn...the surface of my block is copper and I'm using liquid ultra. Might have to lap my block and CPU.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Darn...the surface of my block is copper and I'm using liquid ultra. Might have to lap my block and CPU.


It is what it is. I discovered this reaction a few months ago when tearing down my Titan blocks, but didn't think about removing it until doing more research on Gallium. I'm more worried about GPU block damage than CPU block damage as the margin of error is much much smaller. You can't really lap down a GPU block too far.

In other news. Found what looks EXACTLY like plasticizer buildup in my loop, even though I was running Tygon Norprene.







Acrylic calls my name, maybe next time.


----------



## mus1mus

Hey Guys,

Need an advice from all you watercooling gurus..

If I put up a water loop, what would be the minimum you could advise in terms of the radiator sizes to help me fight the summer ambient that goes high 30s?

Will 2 360mm x 45mm EK Coolstream XT do the trick?

Thanks

By the way, my rig is based on an AMD FX so the temp ceiling is quite low..


----------



## wermad

What are you trying to cool?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What are trying to cool?


CPU with the option to include maybe a couple of GPUs along the line..


----------



## wermad

Cpu on its own is way more then plenty. It should handle a couple of gpu's depending on them though.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Trust me,you dont.
> 
> At equal speeds,the grey typhoons beat them quite handily.


Black bladed AP15s is where it is at.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Chou on its own is way more then plenty. It should handle a couple of gpu's depending on them though.


Well, the immediate need will be for overclocking the CPU. And maybe in the coming months, add in a GPU then another.

The case is quite small that I could only imagine fitting 45mm rads up top.. But on the front I could go for thicker RADS. But I'm keeping this on a tight budget.

My worries is that during noon time, my ambient goes hotter than a human body with fever. Yes, NO Air conditioning.









Also just a quick one about pumps. D5s could easily take half of my total budget. Will getting a couple of 400 LPM / 2 meters head pressure be a better option? Seen some fountain pumps that could be candidates. If so, how do I suppose to do this?

NOOB here, Pardon guys.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well, the immediate need will be for overclocking the CPU. And maybe in the coming months, add in a GPU then another.
> 
> The case is quite small that I could only imagine fitting 45mm rads up top.. But on the front I could go for thicker RADS. But I'm keeping this on a tight budget.
> 
> My worries is that during noon time, my ambient goes hotter than a human body with fever. Yes, NO Air conditioning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also just a quick one about pumps. D5s could easily take half of my total budget. Will getting a couple of 400 LPM / 2 meters head pressure be a better option? Seen some fountain pumps that could be candidates. If so, how do I suppose to do this?
> 
> NOOB here, Pardon guys.


What is your budget? You probably only need a single d5 for your planned loop as well.

If $80 or so for a pump kills your budget, then I'd look at aio solutions.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What is your budget? You probably only need a single d5 for your planned loop as well.
> 
> If $80 or so for a pump kills your budget, then I'd look at aio solutions.


A D5 costs around 150 US$ converted locally..Add in a top and that will soar up to 200.

Budget shouldl never exceed 400$ that's 16,000 Pesos local currency.

If I could grab a D5 for, like you say, 80$ locally, I'm not gonna look back TBH..

Edit; for the budget, I could source out an XSPC RX360 D5 kit. But I'm going for dual (thinner) rads.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Custom colored Mayhems Aurora 2 Supernova


----------



## wh0kn0ws

That color looks great


----------



## sinnedone

ooh nice, I feel like drinking it


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> ooh nice, I feel like drinking it


You wont when you smell it....


----------



## lowfat

So is that stuff not suppose to breakdown in normal loops?


----------



## pc-illiterate

mus1mus, go here and send an email to @bmaverick
http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/
it would be better than a plain fountain pump and should be pretty cheap for you as well. add a top if you want to get better connectivity options.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It is what it is. I discovered this reaction a few months ago when tearing down my Titan blocks, but didn't think about removing it until doing more research on Gallium. I'm more worried about GPU block damage than CPU block damage as the margin of error is much much smaller. You can't really lap down a GPU block too far.
> 
> In other news. Found what looks EXACTLY like plasticizer buildup in my loop, even though I was running Tygon Norprene.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic calls my name, maybe next time.


Hey skupp, how long did you have that loop running to have gathered plasticizer?

I only ask because I based my own concoction on research and on some of your recommendations. I know it was a short period, but after two months before I was forced to tear down my loop, and there was no trace of anything with my concoction (Primochill LRT Advanced, 2/3 distilled water, 1/3 poly glycol and 5% water wetter).


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So is that stuff not suppose to breakdown in normal loops?


Mick sent me the new formula that's supposed to be waaaaaaaaayyyy more stable than the old Aurora which was show only. I suppose I'll be "testing" it to a certain extent. Should be fine in my small loop.

I almost used it in the Robocop build, but I chickened out with the complex loops.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> mus1mus, go here and send an email to @bmaverick
> http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com/buy-ddc-pumps-here/
> it would be better than a plain fountain pump and should be pretty cheap for you as well. add a top if you want to get better connectivity options.


Thanks mate.. Appreciate it..

Will a Jingway DP-1200 or EK-DCP 4.0 be good enough as another option?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey skupp, how long did you have that loop running to have gathered plasticizer?
> 
> I only ask because I based my own concoction on research and on some of your recommendations. I know it was a short period, but after two months before I was forced to tear down my loop, and there was no trace of anything with my concoction (2/3 distilled water, 1/3 poly glycol and 5% water wetter).


I want to say she was together for about 4-5 months. I only saw it within the CPU block. I was "only" using Liquid Utopia, but a few weeks ago I noticed some floaties in my reservoir.

Note that I Was using Tygon Norprene which is rubber, thus plasticizer free. So l'm not really sure what it was, but it looked like plasticizer gunk. I'm wondering if norprene can also leach, just something other than plastic.

Glad to hear that the home brew concoction is working. Iv'e known allot of people who have used small amounts of water-wetter.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Thanks mate.. Appreciate it..
> 
> Will a Jingway DP-1200 or EK-DCP 4.0 be good enough as another option?


personally i used a dcp 4.0/res combo. ran rads, xt45 360 and 240, a raystorm block and 2 swiftech uni gpu blocks in parallel. i didnt have a single problem with temps or (in my opinion) noise. i did get a bit better temps stepping up to 2 of those bmav pumps @7v. other will both disagree and agree with me. my opinion though, a dcp4 is good and its built like a tank.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So is that stuff not suppose to breakdown in normal loops?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Mick sent me the new formula that's supposed to be waaaaaaaaayyyy more stable than the old Aurora which was show only. I suppose I'll be "testing" it to a certain extent. Should be fine in my small loop.
> 
> I almost used it in the Robocop build, but I chickened out with the complex loops.


Yeah he changed quite a few of the properties that are supposed to make the effect last longer and better in more complex loops.. I think he changed the size/shape of the particles and the viscosity of the fluid at least. .. Perhaps more, I don't remember all of the details on it


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> personally i used a dcp 4.0/res combo. ran rads, xt45 360 and 240, a raystorm block and 2 swiftech uni gpu blocks in parallel. i didnt have a single problem with temps or (in my opinion) noise. i did get a bit better temps stepping up to 2 of those bmav pumps @7v. other will both disagree and agree with me. my opinion though, a dcp4 is good and its built like a tank.


hmm.. interesting..

Thanks for the tips man.. Really appreciate them all..

Saved me a lot of troubles deciding on which components to get..

By the way here's the ones I am looking at.

RAD - XSPC RS360 X 2 or EK Coolstream XT 360 X 2
Block - XSPC Raystorm
Reservoir - FTW 250ml (not sure if you know this brand though)
Pump - Jingway DCP-1200 CPX Pro
Fans - Silverstone FM 121

Will be jumping directly from air. So I need a lot info diving into water.









Thanks a lot


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Note that I Was using Tygon Norprene which is rubber, thus plasticizer free. So l'm not really sure what it was, but it looked like plasticizer gunk. I'm wondering if norprene can also leach, just something other than plastic.
> .


Was it black in colour? Someone had a black residue in their loop over on XS a few years back after using Norprene for about a year.


----------



## Devildog83

My new watercooling loop.


----------



## morencyam

@Devildog83 is that one of the Mac G4(G5?) watercoolers?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Was it black in colour? Someone had a black residue in their loop over on XS a few years back after using Norprene for about a year.


Yes, there was also lots of black stain inside my CPU block. Something tells me Tygon Norpene leaches rubber, which is even harder to clean out than plastic. I destroyed my tooth brush trying to clean it out of the fins.


----------



## lowfat

G5 yes. AFAIK it is the only DDC that was sold w/ the volume compensator. It would be a good idea to buy one of the sealing kits from DIYINHK for it as they are prone to leaking.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> @Devildog83 is that one of the Mac G4(G5?) watercoolers?


Yep, a dual CPU AIO. It came out of an old system my son bought and the thing was leaking all over the case and dripping down the motherboard. He bought in just for the case which cleaned up nicely but like everything else he hasn't gotten around to doing anything with it.


----------



## skupples

is that OEM?


----------



## lowfat

Posted this in the EK Club but I feel like spamming it here as well. I am confident I am finally done polishing all the blocks for the last time.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-80.jpg.html


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Posted this in the EK Club but I feel like spamming it here as well. I am confident I am finally done polishing all the blocks for the last time.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-80.jpg.html


Sweetness !!


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> is that OEM?


Yes. that big hunk of aluminum sat right on the motherboard and cooled 2 CPU's.


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Posted this in the EK Club but I feel like spamming it here as well. I am confident I am finally done polishing all the blocks for the last time.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-80.jpg.html


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Yes. that big hunk of aluminum sat right on the motherboard and cooled 2 CPU's.


----------



## Recr3ational

Guys,
My top gpu is hot as soon as i turn it on any advice? Air Bubbles?
and have anyone had any problems with noise and the XSPC D5 bay/res combo.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> My new watercooling loop.


These things were soooooooo prone to leaking. It was if they were made to leak


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> These things were soooooooo prone to leaking. It was if they were made to leak


Easily fixed if you buy the DIYINHK sealing kit.


----------



## MrStrat007

I have a bit of an odd question for all you typhoon gurus... Would it be possible (physically) to put the ap-15 fan (the blades and hub) on the ap-29 motor assembly and frame? Just a thought.

-Strat


----------



## bob808

Though I would post some of these here since they are wet




































In case you want to see more...


----------



## skupples

Those ram blocks are sick!


----------



## morencyam

I really like those blocks too. And that 4-way splitter. I've never seen one like that before


----------



## xmathx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Very simple. Very clean, Very beautiful. Great work. I love the bends you used.


thx


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*


That is an awesome Ram Block!!!!! I like the look of that and the tubing A LOT!!!!


----------



## wermad

Not sure if its this one:


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not sure if its this one:


That is unfortunate.. I am not a fan of koolance.


----------



## skupples

Haha... Does coolance make the block ad well then?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think Alphacool makes them as well


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I think Alphacool makes them as well


Here is to hoping  I will look in a few.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Here is to hoping  I will look in a few.


Found them on aqua tuning: http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p594_Alphacool-MCX-5x-divider.html


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Found them on aqua tuning: http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p594_Alphacool-MCX-5x-divider.html


Unfortunately, that giant square thing meant for a video card isn't going to be nearly as attractive as the one previously posted. I will give on admitting that the Koolance one (if that is the Manufacturer) looks nice.. I just have had nothing but bad experience with Koolance so far.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Hey guys, since i'm expanding my coolermaster glacer 240l AIO, I have to refill the loop via an integrated reservoir. How would i check the level of water, and how would i refill it if the fill port is hard to access?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Hey guys, since i'm expanding my coolermaster glacer 240l AIO, I have to refill the loop via an integrated reservoir. How would i check the level of water, and how would i refill it if the fill port is hard to access?


My res port is hard to get to also. I use funnel with a piece of plastic fuel line duct taped to it so I can weasel it through my case lol.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> My res port is hard to get to also. I use funnel with a piece of plastic fuel line duct taped to it so I can weasel it through my case lol.


Alrighty haha, i will post the results on here, and on my build log once my Scythe Fans, and My Haf Stacker Case arrive. (Damn UPS and Fedex Not giving me tracking updates)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Hey guys, since i'm expanding my coolermaster glacer 240l AIO, I have to refill the loop via an integrated reservoir. How would i check the level of water, and how would i refill it if the fill port is hard to access?


I'd suggest a squeeze-type filling/wash bottle for adding fluid to a hard to access fill port.



http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=Wash+Bottle
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=Wash+Bottle


----------



## skupples

They are great! I even have one for my old nitro RC truck.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They are great! I even have one for my old nitro RC truck.


Omg dude i have one too!!! Ill post a picture after i go find it









EDIT: Dar she blows!


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Thought I'd show off my Rig here as well~


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> I have a bit of an odd question for all you typhoon gurus... Would it be possible (physically) to put the ap-15 fan (the blades and hub) on the ap-29 motor assembly and frame? Just a thought.
> 
> -Strat


Yes, the blade/hub assembly will fit, BUT, because the reinforcing for the fan blades isn't used on the low speed fan blades, they will start to flex and break on you.


----------



## lowfat

From Monsoon in regards to them using silver plated fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> I think this may be a mistake. If someone was using all copper in their loop it would not be a problem. However most people use nickel plated blocks. Nickel and silver have a .1 separation on the galvanic chart, which will likely cause issues for the nickel. Especially since the silver is in direct contact to the nickel. EK and Koolance both advise against using silver in their loops. I am pretty sure doing so voids warranty. Something to consider. Especially since many watercoolers on other forums are expressing the same concern.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> Ah the Chart!
> 
> The fittings are for builders looking for maximum performance using Distilled or Deionized water which is non conductive. No fluid cools better then pure water period. It is also a buck a gallon at your local super market. Specialty fluids are a cash cow and if I was selling them I would not want people using antimicrobial silver either. The "chart" is great but it looks at mixed metals in a marine environment over long term installations--20 to 30 years--ships and oil rigs in salt water which is highly conductive. The electrical conductivity of silver also drops off rapidly as it tarnishes, (this has no effect on it's antimicrobial properties). A common sense example of this is high end gold plated audio cables--if silver is the most electrically conductive metal and is $20 an ounce why is gold used at $1,200 an ounce? Because silver tarnishes very rapidly and it's electrical conductivity eventually gets worse then copper--which is about $3 a pound or $0.20 an ounce. Try and find high end silver plated A/V cables.
> 
> If your worried about it run distilled or deionized water, (again the most efficient cooling fluid there is). If your still worried about it use a little plumbers Teflon tape on the barb threads.


----------



## skupples

because DI/distilled water doesn't become conductive relatively quickly once inside a loop!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> The "chart" is great but it looks at mixed metals in a marine environment over long term installations--20 to 30 years--ships and oil rigs in salt water which is highly conductive.


I love Geno's designs, but losing some respect here. To discount the "chart" by putting quotes around it and say it only applies to salt water, and that distilled water isn't conductive, isn't true. Like you said yourself, the metals are in contact. When the loop is flowing there is electrical conductivity from the free anodic ions that go into the water. The chart shows potential difference in volts, that's an absolute. The interpretation may be different for salt water, but the chart isn't presuming that. We know that nickel plating has had issues in the past with silver and copper sulphate biocides. I find his response dismissive and for me, it fuels the idea that he reduced the number of types of barb to one for financial reasons, and doesn't want to address the potential for issues. If he's tested this at all, let him show the results.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> From Monsoon in regards to them using silver plated fittings.


Lol, they didn't really do their homework and learned from others mistakes. I know they're trying to distinguish themselves, but:

1) its been shown silver and nickel will start causing issues (i know this very well)
2) its been shown even the newest blocks will have issues
3) there's really no need to have all your fittings with silver. I think they should have offered them separately as you only really need one or two.

I'm sure they'll be doing an about face soon. Its probably an idea to infuse more "interest" in their compression fittings during the hardline/copper craze. Though, its the wrong type of interest imho.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Though I would post some of these here since they are wet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you want to see more...


*fistbump*

GO HAWKS!

-Season Ticket Holder since 2004


----------



## jpetrach

I hated the base that I used originally first wood, then converted legs, and now acrylic. this works/ looks the best I think. and bending and tapping is so easy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The "chart" is great but it looks at mixed metals in a marine environment over long term installations--20 to 30 years--ships and oil rigs in salt water which is highly conductive.
> 
> 
> 
> I love Geno's designs, but losing some respect here. To discount the "chart" by putting quotes around it and say it only applies to salt water, and that distilled water isn't conductive, isn't true. Like you said yourself, the metals are in contact. When the loop is flowing there is electrical conductivity from the free anodic ions that go into the water. The chart shows potential difference in volts, that's an absolute. The interpretation may be different for salt water, but the chart isn't presuming that. We know that nickel plating has had issues in the past with silver and copper sulphate biocides. I find his response dismissive and for me, it fuels the idea that he reduced the number of types of barb to one for financial reasons, and doesn't want to address the potential for issues. If he's tested this at all, let him show the results.
Click to expand...

He is correct tho,the chart is based on seawater corrosion levels. you need a potential difference of around 300mv to start and _sustain_ corrosion in seawater. This value increases dramatically in DI water.
The surface area exposed also plays a massive part in this,Steel rivets in a copper plate will corrode the rivets but leave the plate,this is because the rivet is small and has to deal with the difference with different intensity,Steel panels with copper rivets,even tho the difference is still there,the Steel is left largely unaffected as it is larger and can absorb the difference better. This is purely in layman's terms,I can dig out the equation if required.
However,having a plated object in a thread and expecting it to remain intact enough for the substrate not to form another cell,is a bit of a leap.
Also,you find silver plated _copper_ cables in the aviation industry,they also have issues with corrosive behavior between the 2. Red Plague is a real problem and one that has not been solved as yet.

Silver in a well plated nickel loop is perfectly fine,Silver in a poorly plated loop is not fine. The silver leeches the copper but leaves the nickel intact,the flaking is the best indicator of this.


----------



## waveaddict

With these pcb boards,can you run a 4 pin fan cable to mobo for control of the other fans connected to it,with molex power from psu?
Seeing that all the 4 pin fan headers are output,is this doable?


----------



## skupples

Need these that have the 4 pin power.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40253

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40251

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40252


----------



## waveaddict

Yeah,I saw those.Want to control the fans through mobo,but power through psu.Without using a dedicated fan controller,I guess the swiftech 8 way PWM splitter box looks like the best route,or something similar.


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> With these pcb boards,can you run a 4 pin fan cable to mobo for control of the other fans connected to it,with molex power from psu?
> Seeing that all the 4 pin fan headers are output,is this doable?


DO NOT BUY THIS BOARD!

Ok, you may want to buy this board but hear me out first

(I'm assuming this is http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21000/ele-1197/4-Pin_Molex_SATA_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_PWM_2x_4-pin_Block_MMT-PCB-4-8P2M1S.html .

I bought this thinking that all 8 of those fan headers are connected together. They are not. They are split into two rows and did not provide the "8 way splitting" it was advertising at Frozen CPU. I was trying to run 7 PWM fans and have the 8th header provide the PWM and Tach signals. To my surprise when I inspected the back of the board they are not all on the same copper trace. I had to jump the set of traces for those pins together and it wasn't too challenging but it wasn't the product I thought I had purchased.

In terms of the tacho signal, they are all jumped together so if you want the fans to report, you need to cut the traces so that only one of your fans will actually report the signal back to the mobo. Again, not a deal breaker but if you aren't comfortable cutting PCB traces, I'd assume you don't want this.

Also, the product advertises that you have one SATA power in, 1 Molex Male In, and 2 Molex Females Out(I'm assuming so that you can daisy chain this to provide power out) Well mine came with 3 Molex Power Males. So they were all inputs.

*This product will work fine if all you want is to plug 8 fans onto the headers, run them at 12V and call it a day.* If you want to use these to control the PWM of all fans and accurately report the tacho signal, I'd look elsewhere unless you feel like modding the board for your purpose (which sounds exactly like mine)

On a side note, and this wasn't the products issue, but I needed to add an octal buffer in order to feed all my fans the PWM signal as there was not enough current to drive the control line. You may have the same issue depending on how many fans you are running.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> DO NOT BUY THIS BOARD!
> 
> Ok, you may want to buy this board but hear me out first
> 
> (I'm assuming this is http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21000/ele-1197/4-Pin_Molex_SATA_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_PWM_2x_4-pin_Block_MMT-PCB-4-8P2M1S.html .
> 
> I bought this thinking that all 8 of those fan headers are connected together. They are not. They are split into two rows and did not provide the "8 way splitting" it was advertising at Frozen CPU. I was trying to run 7 PWM fans and have the 8th header provide the PWM and Tach signals. To my surprise when I inspected the back of the board they are not all on the same copper trace. I had to jump the set of traces for those pins together and it wasn't too challenging but it wasn't the product I thought I had purchased.
> 
> In terms of the tacho signal, they are all jumped together so if you want the fans to report, you need to cut the traces so that only one of your fans will actually report the signal back to the mobo. Again, not a deal breaker but if you aren't comfortable cutting PCB traces, I'd assume you don't want this.
> 
> Also, the product advertises that you have one SATA power in, 1 Molex Male In, and 2 Molex Females Out(I'm assuming so that you can daisy chain this to provide power out) Well mine came with 3 Molex Power Males. So they were all inputs.
> 
> *This product will work fine if all you want is to plug 8 fans onto the headers, run them at 12V and call it a day.* If you want to use these to control the PWM of all fans and accurately report the tacho signal, I'd look elsewhere.
> 
> On a side note, and this wasn't the products issue, but I needed to add an octal buffer in order to feed all my fans the PWM signal as there was not enough current to drive the control line. You may have the same issue depending on hoe many fans you are running.


Gotcha,thanks for the info.Yeah these PCB boards seem to have potential,but not quite there.I'll check other alternatives.


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Gotcha,thanks for the info.Yeah these PCB boards seem to have potential,but not quite there.I'll check other alternatives.


In the future if I need something like this I'm just going to get some 4-pin headers and make up my own splitter using veroboard or if I'm not lazy etch my own PCB because if you need the extra buffers on the PWM signal it would be far better to integrate them at that stage.


----------



## Puck

I would run those boards with fans, but don't run your pump through one. They are not the most robust quality.

I had a trace pop on one of their 8-way fan splitters, turning off all of the fans connected. Was just my side panel fans so didn't overheat anything, but was still an annoyance.


----------



## SeeThruHead

The ones skupples posted is what you want. The you would wire up a 4 pin connector with With 12v and gnd to a Molex and the pwm and tach to another 4pin that connects to your mobo. Then just clip all the tach pins except one.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> The ones skupples posted is what you want. The you would wire up a 4 pin connector with With 12v and gnd to a Molex and the pwm and tach to another 4pin that connects to your mobo. Then just clip all the tach pins except one.


That's what I was just looking at doing.You can make your own cable to the length and put the pcb where ever you need it.


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> *fistbump*
> 
> GO HAWKS!
> 
> -Season Ticket Holder since 2004


Nice! You should take me to a game this year!







I have a feeling they're going to sell out in 10 minutes like last year...


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Nice! You should take me to a game this year!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a feeling they're going to sell out in 10 minutes like last year...


I would, but it's just my dad and I, been our thing for 10 years


----------



## Devildog83

I think I have room for water-cooling now.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> That's what I was just looking at doing.You can make your own cable to the length and put the pcb where ever you need it.


Shouldn't be an issue, you just need the wires & the PWM Terminals.


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I would, but it's just my dad and I, been our thing for 10 years


That's awesome! I'm jelly. Well if by chance something comes up and he can't make it for some crazy reason, keep me in mind!


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> DO NOT BUY THIS BOARD!
> 
> Ok, you may want to buy this board but hear me out first
> 
> (I'm assuming this is http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21000/ele-1197/4-Pin_Molex_SATA_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_PWM_2x_4-pin_Block_MMT-PCB-4-8P2M1S.html .
> 
> I bought this thinking that all 8 of those fan headers are connected together. They are not. They are split into two rows and did not provide the "8 way splitting" it was advertising at Frozen CPU. I was trying to run 7 PWM fans and have the 8th header provide the PWM and Tach signals. To my surprise when I inspected the back of the board they are not all on the same copper trace. I had to jump the set of traces for those pins together and it wasn't too challenging but it wasn't the product I thought I had purchased.
> 
> In terms of the tacho signal, they are all jumped together so if you want the fans to report, you need to cut the traces so that only one of your fans will actually report the signal back to the mobo. Again, not a deal breaker but if you aren't comfortable cutting PCB traces, I'd assume you don't want this.
> 
> Also, the product advertises that you have one SATA power in, 1 Molex Male In, and 2 Molex Females Out(I'm assuming so that you can daisy chain this to provide power out) Well mine came with 3 Molex Power Males. So they were all inputs.
> 
> *This product will work fine if all you want is to plug 8 fans onto the headers, run them at 12V and call it a day.* If you want to use these to control the PWM of all fans and accurately report the tacho signal, I'd look elsewhere unless you feel like modding the board for your purpose (which sounds exactly like mine)
> 
> On a side note, and this wasn't the products issue, but I needed to add an octal buffer in order to feed all my fans the PWM signal as there was not enough current to drive the control line. You may have the same issue depending on how many fans you are running.


I have this, I am running 8 x 3 pin fans to it. I also had a cold cathode light set hooks to one of the molex connectors so out does work. The light kit came with male and female so I just used the female end and it powered them fine. I never did use it as a PWM header though. Just 3 pin.


----------



## mjcaouette89

Just looking to join the water cooling club over here on OCN!

Here are the pics of my rig:
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20140418_002_zpsf26225fe.jpg.html
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/temporary_zps07c31390.jpg.html
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/temporary_zps1432405c.jpg.html


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mjcaouette89*
> 
> Just looking to join the water cooling club over here on OCN!


Pictures came up as super tiny thumbnails, do you have the higher res versions?


----------



## d00bzilla

is he running two fans on either side of that rad?


----------



## skupples

old school.


----------



## jtom320

Just a quick question as this silver discussion has gotten me worried. Just put together a loop with two EK blocks. Supremacy Nickel + Acetal and Classified Nickel + Acetal. Also running a silver kill coil in the res/pump combo.

Is this going to cause issues for me? Seems it's ok in the res but I want to make sure.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Just a quick question as this silver discussion has gotten me worried. Just put together a loop with two EK blocks. Supremacy Nickel + Acetal and Classified Nickel + Acetal. Also running a silver kill coil in the res/pump combo.
> 
> Is this going to cause issues for me? Seems it's ok in the res but I want to make sure.


I would personally remove the kill coil then go with an additive that includes anti-corrosive, anti-growth, and surfactant.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Just a quick question as this silver discussion has gotten me worried. Just put together a loop with two EK blocks. Supremacy Nickel + Acetal and Classified Nickel + Acetal. Also running a silver kill coil in the res/pump combo.
> 
> Is this going to cause issues for me? Seems it's ok in the res but I want to make sure.


Personally, I don't want silver in my loops anywhere. I'd rather run a clear, dedicated coolant instead of plain distilled, and know I won't have issues with dissimilar metals in the loop. If it was still 2003 and there was nothing but garbage coolants on the market, it would be one thing. But with the coolants available now, I just don't see the reason to not use one of the known good coolants. Basically, the way I see it, if your using blocks that are nickel plated, use a dedicated coolant. If your old school and use copper blocks, use whatever you think will work.


----------



## jtom320

Ok good advice. Should I just buy a bottle of the EK coolant then and be done with it? I suppose it's unlikely any lasting damage has been done at this point. It's only been a week.

I was planning on changing some fittings anyway. Would two weeks in there hurt anything? I'd like to do this all at the same time if possible.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> With these pcb boards,can you run a 4 pin fan cable to mobo for control of the other fans connected to it,with molex power from psu?
> Seeing that all the 4 pin fan headers are output,is this doable?


Is there a 4-pin equivalent of that grid floating out there somewhere? I don't have the male/female 4-pin connectors you can daisy chain together on any of my fans, LED strips, pump, or otherwise - and I've already run out of 4-pin spaces on my PSU.








Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Michalius

I was talking to Daphne about the EK block for my new KPE



She was so impressed with the performance that she has nothing but disdain for air coolers now



That's the face of disgust.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Ok good advice. Should I just buy a bottle of the EK coolant then and be done with it? I suppose it's unlikely any lasting damage has been done at this point. It's only been a week.
> 
> I was planning on changing some fittings anyway. Would two weeks in there hurt anything? I'd like to do this all at the same time if possible.


No, two weeks shouldn't hurt your gear. Personally, I would recommend Mayhems X-1 coolant. I've never used the EK coolant, so I can't give an honest opinion on it, but I have used nothing but Mayhems coolants now for 2+ years, never had a single issue with them myself. They are usually one of the most, if not the most, recommended coolants out there.

Whichever coolant you do decide to use (either the EK or mayhems) make sure you drain the loop, and flush it with distilled water really well, before you mix up your new coolant and add it to the loop


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also might want to test the ph levels of your loop to ensure proper conditions for the coolants you'll use


----------



## VSG

Aquacomputer has announced their R9-295x full cover block: http://www.techpowerup.com/200106/aqua-computer-announces-radeon-r9-295x2-full-cover-block.html



Not a big fan personally but I like that they went subtle this time with the Hawaii/Vesuvius reference.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I was talking to Daphne about the EK block for my new KPE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She was so impressed with the performance that she has nothing but disdain for air coolers now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the face of disgust.


----------



## sinnedone

A little off topic, but anyone know where to get some nice looking mesh grille? (circular holes preferably) All the ones I keep finding look horrible. Ive seen some rigs posted here that seemed to have some really nice looking mesh that wasn't part of the original case.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> No, two weeks shouldn't hurt your gear. Personally, I would recommend Mayhems X-1 coolant. I've never used the EK coolant, so I can't give an honest opinion on it, but I have used nothing but Mayhems coolants now for 2+ years, never had a single issue with them myself. They are usually one of the most, if not the most, recommended coolants out there.
> 
> Whichever coolant you do decide to use (either the EK or mayhems) make sure you drain the loop, and flush it with distilled water really well, before you mix up your new coolant and add it to the loop


if you do go the mayhem route make sure you get tubing that will play well with it. you dont want to spend all that time and money just to have plasticizer gunking up your rads or your tubing turning cloudy.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> A little off topic, but anyone know where to get some nice looking mesh grille? (circular holes preferably) All the ones I keep finding look horrible. Ive seen some rigs posted here that seemed to have some really nice looking mesh that wasn't part of the original case.


i got mine from here


----------



## sinnedone

Thank you d00bzilla. I'll definitely look at those.


----------



## jason387

My Radiator after 22 days of usage. Will this affect temps?


----------



## d00bzilla




----------



## Michalius

Is your PC physically in a desert?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> My Radiator after 22 days of usage. Will this affect temps?


How is this even remotely possible?!


----------



## jason387

I don't know. I have two fans in push and pull configuration. I'm from india...I got all the dust out and load temps reduced by 8c.I'm feeling insulted but I don't know where else I could get suggestions.


----------



## yutzybrian

I would highly recommend a fan filter. It would be easier to take it off and clean more frequently.


----------



## jason387

Where can I get them and will it attach to my rad??


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> My Radiator after 22 days of usage. Will this affect temps?


i thought this was a troll post...


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> I would highly recommend a fan filter. It would be easier to take it off and clean more frequently.


Screw a fan filter! He needs an air scrubber for the whole house. He's breathing that in! Omg how is that possible? I literally thought it was a joke post.


----------



## jason387

I'm sorry I even posted the pic. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Don't feel insulted my man, the reason people react like that is because that's NUTS!!!!

Fan filters can be attached to fans, radiators, etc... There are types that do so.



Spoiler: I DID IT HERE, ON A FAN...







Thanks - T


----------



## jason387

Thanks...Do they help a lot???


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> I'm sorry I even posted the pic. Thanks for the help.


Does your system sit near an open window or is it sitting on the floor? Look, we're really just trying to help here. What you might need to do is use a thin piece of cloth over the fan and vent openings on your case. This will help keep dust out. I would also suggest looking at getting a case that has removable dust filters so that you can clean them out regularly. It's one of the things I've come to really love about my Switch 810.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Screw a fan filter! He needs an air scrubber for the whole house. He's breathing that in! Omg how is that possible? I literally thought it was a joke post.


Its that dusty here.


----------



## jason387

If I get the NZXT Gamma case will it be better than what I have now? The cabinet is on the floor and right above it are the windows.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Its that dusty here.


As soon as I saw your post saying you are in India it all made sense. I've been there and I had to wash my face three times a day. You are going to need fan filters and run a positive pressure system to try and keep that dust out of the case. You will have to clean those dust filters every couple of days though.


----------



## jason387

I'm going to get the fan filters then. My psu is mounted on the top and its fan faces the read. The NZXT Gamma has a bottom psu support.. .will I see any difference in temps if I get it???


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> I'm going to get the fan filters then. My psu is mounted on the top and its fan faces the read. The NZXT Gamma has a bottom psu support.. .will I see any difference in temps if I get it???


I don't think that you'll see much of a difference in temps, but you could depending on whether or not you use all of the fan mounts. I would, just to help keep dust out. Make sure to put fan filters on all of the fan grills that don't have filters. This should definitely help keep the dust out.


----------



## jason387

Thanks for all the help guys


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Where can I get them and will it attach to my rad??


Hi Jason if you have problems locsting fan filters in India. You can use a pair of womans stockings as a filter medium.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My Radiator after 22 days of usage. Will this affect temps?


Should A.) stop smoking inside your house.

B.) hire someone to come clean your entire house.


----------



## jason387

I don't smoke at all. The stockings is a good alternative. Creative actually.


----------



## Blackops_2

Yes that will probably affect temps.. 22 days jason? Damn man time to get some filters. I thought my apartment was dusty. I would dust the entire room, add a purifier, and then put filters in the ceiling vents. Call me crazy but i hate dust.


----------



## mjcaouette89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Pictures came up as super tiny thumbnails, do you have the higher res versions?


Yes I do have the full size images, I was using thumbnails thinking that if they were clicked on it would link to the full size image. Guess I didn't realize OCN was actually hosting the images once I posted them. I'm at work right now so I will have to edit my post after work to put in the full size images, plus I can add some old images of how it used to be set up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> is he running two fans on either side of that rad?


I assume this was directed at my post, On the 360 rad the inner fans are gutted so they are acting as shrouds. All the rads are in push/pull but the 360 is the only one with the shrouds on both sides.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Yes that will probably affect temps.. 22 days jason? Damn man time to get some filters. I thought my apartment was dusty. I would dust the entire room, add a purifier, and then put filters in the ceiling vents. Call me crazy but i hate dust.


Yeah. I mean I thought it would look like that after a couple of months.


----------



## derickwm

I haven't had a single radiator caked with dust that badly after months and months of use, even when I lived in Arizona. Hell even my radiator in the PC that I run in the dusty basement isn't that bad after a couple months.


----------



## Angrychair

no way thats only 22 days! I don't get that in a year!


----------



## mus1mus

Those fans should be doing household stuff eh?


----------



## jason387

It's been exactly 24 days, not 22







You can check the posts I made here only as I got it with pics. Here's my first post here- http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/65110
page-6512


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Its not even been a moth since I got it. You can check the posts I made here only as I got it with pics.


I would also seriously consider investing in a Data Vac. I really don't know how I survived without mine. They are so much better than the cans of compressed air that are not only bad for the environment, but they also start to add up quickly. It's an investment that you won't regret, particularly with your situation.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> I don't smoke at all. The stockings is a good alternative. Creative actually.


In your special situation,I would consider making an intake box.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I would also seriously consider investing in a Data Vac. I really don't know how I survived without mine. They are so much better than the cans of compressed air that are not only bad for the environment, but they also start to add up quickly. It's an investment that you won't regret, particularly with your situation.


I always say the same thing about an air compressor. For about the same cost or not a whole lot more than a datavac you can get a small air compressor that can do everything you can do with a datavac, only better, AND you can air up tires/inflatables, operate air tools (ratchet / impact wrench / grinder / paint sprayer / etc), and you can air leak test your loop instead of putting down paper towels and crossing your fingers that you don't soak thousands of dollars of gear, and more.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I would also seriously consider investing in a Data Vac. I really don't know how I survived without mine. They are so much better than the cans of compressed air that are not only bad for the environment, but they also start to add up quickly. It's an investment that you won't regret, particularly with your situation.
> 
> 
> 
> I always say the same thing about an air compressor. For about the same cost or not not as whole lot more than a datavac you can get a small air compressor that can do everything you can do with a datavac, only better, AND you can air up tires/inflatables, operate air tools (ratchet / impact wrench / grinder / paint sprayer / etc), and you can air leak test your loop instead of putting down paper towels and crossing your fingers that you don't soak thousands of dollars of gear, and more.
Click to expand...

+1

I would be lost without mine,I converted to airtools and never looked back.

I need to get me a 50ltr belt drive,I have a 25ltr direct drive and its the loudest thing your ever heard. ever.


----------



## Michalius

Louder than a GTX 480!?!?!


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In your special situation,I would consider making an intake box.


What's that?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah all air compressors are very LOUD. If you live in an apartment, your neighbors will MUCH prefer you get a Datavac instead.









I have a Dewalt pancake compressor, and it's quite a bit louder than my lawnmower or my shopvac. Just to give a comparison.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> What's that?


Like on a car, where you have the intake from a tube to a box which has a filter in it.


----------



## skupples

I would look into getting your home professionally cleaned, then look into upgrading your AC's filtration system. That can't be healthy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Louder than a GTX 480!?!?!


102Db loud

The price you pay for oil free.

The upside is that my air grinder whistles like a turbo dump valve,you cant put a price on that......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> What's that?
> 
> 
> 
> Like on a car, where you have the intake from a tube to a box which has a filter in it.
Click to expand...

This. The larger the filter surface the better in your case.
5 120 filters in a box over the intake will promote better airflow than just a flat filter over the intake.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 102Db loud
> 
> The price you pay for oil free.
> 
> The upside is that my air grinder whistles like a turbo dump valve,you cant put a price on that......
> This. The larger the filter surface the better in your case.
> 5 120 filters in a box over the intake will promote better airflow than just a flat filter over the intake.


Will it reduce temps?


----------



## Michalius

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Will it reduce temps?


By keeping it cleaner, yeah.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 102Db loud
> 
> The price you pay for oil free.
> 
> The upside is that my air grinder whistles like a turbo dump valve,you cant put a price on that......
> This. The larger the filter surface the better in your case.
> 5 120 filters in a box over the intake will promote better airflow than just a flat filter over the intake.
> 
> 
> 
> Will it reduce temps?
Click to expand...

No,it will provide the same cooling as your cleaned rad but for a much longer period.
I would look at sealed bearing fans as well,sleeve bearings are going to suffer badly in that kind of dust.


----------



## jason387

I'm using the AMD fans which came with it on the radiator. Should I change the fans?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> I'm using the AMD fans which came with it on the radiator. Should I change the fans?


If they are still working and are not noisy then no,leave them but look at replacements of a decent quality with a sealed bearing of some sort. Or a fan thats serviceable.
If your case has filters already on then,if you dont have it setup this way already,have the rad intaking from the case rather than the outside,the case filters *should* help in the short term.

That kind of dust bunny infestation you have is normally 2 years of zero maintenance,to get that in 1 month requires more active measures.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If they are still working and are not noisy then no,leave them but look at replacements of a decent quality with a sealed bearing of some sort. Or a fan thats serviceable.
> If your case has filters already on then,if you dont have it setup this way already,have the rad intaking from the case rather than the outside,the case filters *should* help in the short term.
> 
> That kind of dust bunny infestation you have is normally 2 years of zero maintenance,to get that in 1 month requires more active measures.


The case doesn't come with any dust filters but I'll be looking into getting a few. Also looking to get the NZXT Gamma case as my present case lacks cable management and is way too small. I do have the rad pulling in air from the inside but I think because of the less space inside and top mounted PSU all the radiator gets is hot air from the inside.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If they are still working and are not noisy then no,leave them but look at replacements of a decent quality with a sealed bearing of some sort. Or a fan thats serviceable.
> If your case has filters already on then,if you dont have it setup this way already,have the rad intaking from the case rather than the outside,the case filters *should* help in the short term.
> 
> That kind of dust bunny infestation you have is normally 2 years of zero maintenance,to get that in 1 month requires more active measures.
> 
> 
> 
> The case doesn't come with any dust filters but I'll be looking into getting a few. Also looking to get the NZXT Gamma case as my present case lacks cable management and is way too small. I do have the rad pulling in air from the inside but I think because of the less space inside and top mounted PSU all the radiator gets is hot air from the inside.
Click to expand...

Its pulling from the inside already?

Wow.....

You need a better case with more filters than an Instagram tea party.


----------



## skupples

Just ran into a rather annoying flaw with this XSPC DDC top. it has 5MM LED holes, but these 5MM LEDs are either too big, or the hole is slightly too small... Any way to easily bore them out ever so slightly without maiming the block?

Nvm, was easiest to file down the outside of the LED. Should help deaden the sharpness of the light as well.
edit:

another quick question... I accidentally ordered 3PIN LEDs (HDD style adapters) I should have no issues moving the one wire over so that it hooks up to the standard 2 pin LED hookups, correct?


----------



## wermad

Crack a window open and start your spring cleaning. I've had my rig up a couple of months and there's a slight amount of dust. My wife is a clean freak and with my known allergies and asthma conditions, we clean more frequently. We also have a large air filter that we turn on to help as well. Most of dust is composed of human dead skin btw. Pets and carpets also need routine maintenance/cleaning to avoid adding to the dust. Nothing like changing the oil in your Chihuahua







, j/k.

Some one ordered the 295X2 block from AC yet? That thing is smexy and uber pricey (~$250).


----------



## PC Upgrade

Have a look of my new dual loop project ''Red Twister''

Case: Corsair Obsidian 750D
Psu: Corsair AX 860
Mobo: Asus Maximus VI formula
CPU: Intel i7 4770K
Ram: 16gb Corsair dominator [email protected] 2000Mhz
Gpu: Asus Gtx 780 poseidon
SSD: Kington Hyper x 120Gb
Hdd: Seagate 1tb + 2tb + 2tb + 1tb + WD 1tb + 1tb + 2tb

Watercooling parts:
Cpu block: EKWB EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal+Nickel CPU Block
Vga block: Stock Asus Poseidon
Backplate: Stock Asus Poseidon
Ram block: EK-RAM Monarch X4 - Acetal+Nickel CSQ
Pump 1: EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)
Pump 2: XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Watercooling Pump V4
2 X Rads: EKWB EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240 Watercooling Radiator
1 x Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 120 Watercooling Radiator
Tank: Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 30 Acetal Black Reservoir
Tube: Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT
Connectors: EKWB + Alphacool
Fans: 5x Corsair SP 120 performance
Lights: 4x Lamptron FlexLight Pro 15 LED Fire Red + Sharkoon Cold Cathode Light Twin Red 30cm
Cables: Nanoxia sleeved

Some pictures


----------



## CrSt3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Crack a window open and start your spring cleaning. I've had my rig up a couple of months and there's a slight amount of dust. My wife is a clean freak and with my known allergies and asthma conditions, we clean more frequently. We also have a large air filter that we turn on to help as well. Most of dust is composed of human dead skin btw. Pets and carpets also need routine maintenance/cleaning to avoid adding to the dust. Nothing like changing the oil in your Chihuahua
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , j/k.
> 
> Some one ordered the 295X2 block from AC yet? That thing is smexy and uber pricey (~$250).


Someone who pays like 1.3k bucks for this beauty aint gonna be hurt by another 250









Either way two seperate blocks for R9 290X with bridge would set you back the same price









Far too Long for my case









EDIT: Just two 8P-PowerCables ?







... thought that was 1*6P and 2*8P


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> Have a look of my new dual loop project ''Red Twister''
> 
> Case: Corsair Obsidian 750D
> Psu: Corsair AX 860
> Mobo: Asus Maximus VI formula
> CPU: Intel i7 4770K
> Ram: 16gb Corsair dominator [email protected] 2000Mhz
> Gpu: Asus Gtx 780 poseidon
> SSD: Kington Hyper x 120Gb
> Hdd: Seagate 1tb + 2tb + 2tb + 1tb + WD 1tb + 1tb + 2tb
> 
> Watercooling parts:
> Cpu block: EKWB EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal+Nickel CPU Block
> Vga block: Stock Asus Poseidon
> Backplate: Stock Asus Poseidon
> Ram block: EK-RAM Monarch X4 - Acetal+Nickel CSQ
> Pump 1: EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)
> Pump 2: XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Watercooling Pump V4
> 2 X Rads: EKWB EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240 Watercooling Radiator
> 1 x Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 120 Watercooling Radiator
> Tank: Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 30 Acetal Black Reservoir
> Tube: Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT
> Connectors: EKWB + Alphacool
> Fans: 5x Corsair SP 120 performance
> Lights: 4x Lamptron FlexLight Pro 15 LED Fire Red + Sharkoon Cold Cathode Light Twin Red 30cm
> Cables: Nanoxia sleeved
> 
> Some pictures
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That res is literally brilliant.








Looks awesome. So many good posts in here lately


----------



## phillyd

What's the biggest combination of radiators I can get away with easily in a 900D?
I'd like to have 2 radiators, a 420 and a 480, as thick as possible in push/pull. I was thinking a UT60 480mm in the top and a Monsta 420 in the bottom.


----------



## Blackops_2

If you guys had to pick between regular tubing or acrylic which would you go? I'm assembling a parts list for my upcoming loop and the only parts that are set in stone are the rads, blocks, and mayhems lol.

Part of me feels like my loop wont be intricate enough to pull off acrylic simply because it's only incorporating the GPU/CPU and two rads and a res.

So far i have my system in the sig, a 780 + EK block on the way, a swiftech MCRP 320 quiet edition, 4 sp120s. Thinking i'm settling on 7/16 x 5/8 tubing and running straight lines using bitspower fittings much like Joe's rig here.


Though i see some of these acrylic builds and it makes me want to go acrylic. Idk if i feel like spending the extra $$ on tools required to bend and tune up acrylic. Watercooling alone will be spanning into the 600$ realm for this build, and i'm still thinking of another 780 classy down the line. No plasticizer with acrylic also right? That's a big plus as well.

Also frozen CPU has a D5 kit they will assemble for you that includes the bitspower 150 res, D5 upgrade kit, and pump top. Is it worth 250$ or should i just get the stuff and assemble it myself? I'm just thinking if i ran into a problem with the acrylic top that i'd be stuck sending things back where as if they assemble it they should theoretically catch it right?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> If you guys had to pick between regular tubing or acrylic which would you go? I'm assembling a parts list for my upcoming loop and the only parts that are set in stone are the rads, blocks, and mayhems lol.
> 
> Part of me feels like my loop wont be intricate enough to pull off acrylic simply because it's only incorporating the GPU/CPU and two rads and a res.
> 
> So far i have my system in the sig, a 780 + EK block on the way, a swiftech MCRP 320 quiet edition, 4 sp120s. Thinking i'm settling on 7/16 x 5/8 tubing and running straight lines using bitspower fittings much like Joe's rig here.
> 
> 
> Though i see some of these acrylic builds and it makes me want to go acrylic. Idk if i feel like spending the extra $$ on tools required to bend and tune up acrylic. Watercooling alone will be spanning into the 600$ realm for this build, and i'm still thinking of another 780 classy down the line. No plasticizer with acrylic also right? That's a big plus as well.
> 
> Also frozen CPU has a D5 kit they will assemble for you that includes the bitspower 150 res, D5 upgrade kit, and pump top. Is it worth 250$ or should i just get the stuff and assemble it myself? I'm just thinking if i ran into a problem with the acrylic top that i'd be stuck sending things back where as if they assemble it they should theoretically catch it right?


Biggest pro to the acrylic is that it is plasticizer free and will never cloud (from the tube at least). It also looks pretty saweeet.

You don't necessarily NEED all that many tools for acrylic, they only make things nicer. All that is required is a heat gun which you can pick up for $10-20, a mini hack saw which is $10 or less, the bending cord which is a couple bucks, and . You probably have a simple file laying around already to clean up the edges from sawing. For doing the bends, I am sure you have a roll of tape somewhere that you can use or some other round object.

Should add that the heat gun has reusability for sleeving cables, removing stickers from things (fans), and many other tasks as well


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> Someone who pays like 1.3k bucks for this beauty aint gonna be hurt by another 250
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either way two seperate blocks for R9 290X with bridge would set you back the same price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Far too Long for my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just two 8P-PowerCables ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... thought that was 1*6P and 2*8P


AC tends to be pricier then other brands. I know the 7990 blocks started ~$160 USD. Also, your're using less materials/components vs two separate blocks. I'll probably go with the ek one down the road when I move on to these guys (if I do







).

295X2 retails for ~$1500 USD. Its sad since two new 290X can be had for ~$1100. Cooler (hybrid) and video connectors are probably some of the reasons for the higher cost. Sucks since 7990 came ~$1000 USD (7970s still retailed for ~$500 USD at that time, despite used ones going for a lot less).

Reference cards will try to appease a larger audience and hence why they maybe a little bit constrained in their design. Add in board partners can create custom boards and setups and that's why you see cards with three 8-pin connectors and huge pcb with monster triple slot coolers.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Biggest pro to the acrylic is that it is plasticizer free and will never cloud (from the tube at least). It also looks pretty saweeet.
> 
> You don't necessarily NEED all that many tools for acrylic, they only make things nicer. All that is required is a heat gun which you can pick up for $10-20, a mini hack saw which is $10 or less, the bending cord which is a couple bucks, and . You probably have a simple file laying around already to clean up the edges from sawing. For doing the bends, I am sure you have a roll of tape somewhere that you can use or some other round object.
> 
> Should add that the heat gun has reusability for sleeving cables, removing stickers from things (fans), and many other tasks as well


Plasticizer still a big risk now a days? If it is i'll just have to bite the bullet and buy a heat gun and go acrylic. If i were to go acrylic i'd probably add another 120 rad on the rear exhaust just to throw some more routes for tubing in there.

At the same time Joe's picture up above looks great with 7/16 x 5/8s tubing.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> If you guys had to pick between regular tubing or acrylic which would you go? I'm assembling a parts list for my upcoming loop and the only parts that are set in stone are the rads, blocks, and mayhems lol.
> 
> Part of me feels like my loop wont be intricate enough to pull off acrylic simply because it's only incorporating the GPU/CPU and two rads and a res.
> 
> So far i have my system in the sig, a 780 + EK block on the way, a swiftech MCRP 320 quiet edition, 4 sp120s. Thinking i'm settling on 7/16 x 5/8 tubing and running straight lines using bitspower fittings much like Joe's rig here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though i see some of these acrylic builds and it makes me want to go acrylic. Idk if i feel like spending the extra $$ on tools required to bend and tune up acrylic. Watercooling alone will be spanning into the 600$ realm for this build, and i'm still thinking of another 780 classy down the line. No plasticizer with acrylic also right? That's a big plus as well.
> 
> *Also frozen CPU has a D5 kit they will assemble for you that includes the bitspower 150 res, D5 upgrade kit, and pump top. Is it worth 250$ or should i just get the stuff and assemble it myself? I'm just thinking if i ran into a problem with the acrylic top that i'd be stuck sending things back where as if they assemble it they should theoretically catch it right?*


When FCPU does the assembly, it's neither more or less $ if you look at the prices, it's the same, and they send you ALL of the original boxes, so if there are any issues, you can send back in the OEM box. But they don't do a leak test on the parts after assembly.


----------



## Blackops_2

I see. If it's roughly the same price i'll just let them assemble it.


----------



## Jakewat

Go acrylic. I actually found acrylic to cost me around the same as going with quality soft tube as the tube itself is cheaper and you can often save on angle fittings. I picked up a heat gun for like $30 nzd which is cheap as, and didn't need any fancy tools just a hacksaw, some sand paper and a cutting mat for bends lol. Also I built myself a simple cutting jig for cleaner cuts.
Also I only have 2 rads, res, CPU and 1 gpu. Check out my build, I got some pretty good results for my first time water cooling.


----------



## jpetrach

Acrylic update if you remember a while back i runed a Gigabyte 7850 by some how breaking one of the small connections on the back side of the PCB




So on the R9 270X I made an acrylic back plate. I was however worried about the causing a temperature increase. My custom built GPU block screws and bolts had just enough space to place a small nylon washer between the acrylic and the card. Is this enough or should i have more space? about 3/16"




Temps have gone down a lot after placing the new acrylic bottom on the case! i have made no other changes to the configuration.

Old base.

New base


Temps before


Temps after


Both captures are taken after ~1 hour of Titan Fall on max settings. i re-seated the GPU only when i switched everything out (Base/backplate), room temps are getting warmer not colder. and for the big plot twist I dropped the push/pull config for just pull. for looks!
i love working with this stuff, and any ideas are appreciated.

please comment.

Update: sorry about the screen shots poor quality


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> If you guys had to pick between regular tubing or acrylic which would you go? I'm assembling a parts list for my upcoming loop and the only parts that are set in stone are the rads, blocks, and mayhems lol.
> 
> Part of me feels like my loop wont be intricate enough to pull off acrylic simply because it's only incorporating the GPU/CPU and two rads and a res.
> 
> So far i have my system in the sig, a 780 + EK block on the way, a swiftech MCRP 320 quiet edition, 4 sp120s. Thinking i'm settling on 7/16 x 5/8 tubing and running straight lines using bitspower fittings much like Joe's
> 
> Though i see some of these acrylic builds and it makes me want to go acrylic. Idk if i feel like spending the extra $$ on tools required to bend and tune up acrylic. Watercooling alone will be spanning into the 600$ realm for this build, and i'm still thinking of another 780 classy down the line. No plasticizer with acrylic also right? That's a big plus as well


I think it's completely about looks. It doesn't matter if you have two rads or four, the complexity shouldn't be the determining factor. I see it like this.

Acrylic = guy in a well cut suit

Flexible tube = average joe in cargo shorts

Both guys are wearing clothes but both wardrobes say something about the person. The guy in the well cut suit obviously goes the extra mile while cargo shorts guy is happy cutting the lawn. That being said your bends in the acrylic better be near perfect. Most woman would prefer a man in cargo shorts over a guy wearing a suit that obviously doesn't fit him after all.

Hopefully this makes sense to someone other than myself.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> I think it's completely about looks. It doesn't matter if you have two rads or four, the complexity shouldn't be the determining factor. I see it like this.
> 
> Acrylic = guy in a well cut suit
> 
> Flexible tube = average joe in cargo shorts
> 
> Both guys are wearing clothes but both wardrobes say something about the person. The guy in the well cut suit obviously goes the extra mile while cargo shorts guy is happy cutting the lawn. That being said your bends in the acrylic better be near perfect. Most woman would prefer a man in cargo shorts over a guy wearing a suit that obviously doesn't fit him after all.
> 
> Hopefully this makes sense to someone other than myself.


Hahaha, well said. Although soft tube can be made to look really nice. Very true about acrylic, many people end up doing an average job with their bends and it can look like a mess, but if you spend time on it and practice it can look really amazing.


----------



## benskate37




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> I think it's completely about looks. It doesn't matter if you have two rads or four, the complexity shouldn't be the determining factor. I see it like this.
> 
> Acrylic = guy in a well cut suit
> 
> Flexible tube = average joe in cargo shorts
> 
> Both guys are wearing clothes but both wardrobes say something about the person. The guy in the well cut suit obviously goes the extra mile while cargo shorts guy is happy cutting the lawn. That being said your bends in the acrylic better be near perfect. Most woman would prefer a man in cargo shorts over a guy wearing a suit that obviously doesn't fit him after all.
> 
> Hopefully this makes sense to someone other than myself.


Not a good analogy tbh. I've seen numerous gorgeous wc loops w/ nylon. Its more about the experience/effort factor imho. Here's my analogy:

A better one would be automatic vs manual transmission. If you have experience and know how to work a manual, its a rewarding experience. Acrylic is more involved and takes a bit of practice to get it. When you do, its very nice looking. Same deal with copper tube.

Traditional nylon tube is the automatic transmission, for those who have little to no experience, its a good way to approach your loop plumbing. But either way, both will get you from point a to point b.

I've tried both and I'm still sticking w/ nylon/plastic. My advise for hard acrylic, practice, practice, practice. It needs a good amount of time and a lot of effort get the bends right. Its a very rewarding path if you do it right.

You can also cheat with the double-clutch box: aka buying a bunch of angle fittings to run acrylic. Expensive, but can ease the difficulty of bending all or some of your hard acrylic.

My


----------



## Druccy

Acrylic looks amazing I have to say, but does not give you the quick exchange of kit that tube offers.

Style over substance lol.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can also cheat with the double-clutch box: aka buying a bunch of angle fittings to run acrylic. Expensive, but can ease the difficulty of bending all or some of your hard acrylic.
> 
> My


This was going to be my approach but i would have to incorporate some bends inevitably. That said i added about 12 fittings for my non acrylic loop and the price went through the roof. Fittings are killer.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Druccy*
> 
> Acrylic looks amazing I have to say, but does not give you the quick exchange of kit that tube offers.
> 
> Style over substance lol.


Copper pipe is the best of both worlds. Fittings are generally a lot cheaper too.


----------



## wermad

Rocketscience.mx for 1/2" od copper fittings a'la C47s. Very tempting but I got these Monsoons on special and it was cheaper since I at least need 26 fittings







.


----------



## mjcaouette89

Okay so I'm just re-posting to put up the full size images of my rig, I'm putting the images in the spoiler tag so not everyone has to view them again.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20140418_002_zpsf26225fe.jpg.htmlhttp://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/temporary_zps07c31390.jpg.htmlhttp://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/temporary_zps1432405c.jpg.htmlhttp://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/temporary_zps272dd2b3.jpg.html



And the Photo's of how I used to have it setup:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20130822_003_zps06365636.jpg.htmlhttp://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20130822_001_zps838d1714.jpg.htmlhttp://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20130821_003_zpsb9ffa7fc.jpg.htmlhttp://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20130821_002_zpsef2abb3b.jpg.htmlhttp://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20130820_007_zpsa9b3e02f.jpg.htmlhttp://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/IMG_20121118_185524.jpg.html


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> What's the biggest combination of radiators I can get away with easily in a 900D?
> I'd like to have 2 radiators, a 420 and a 480, as thick as possible in push/pull. I was thinking a UT60 480mm in the top and a Monsta 420 in the bottom.


you are going to have issues doing push/pull on a UT60 due to width issues. I ran into this my self.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you are going to have issues doing push/pull on a UT60 due to width issues. I ran into this my self.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Chose to recommend high SP fans with a UT60 in push only.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Chose to recommend high SP fans with a UT60 in push only.


Should work well. i would go with 45s in the compartment where you are doing 2x rads. Fitting a slim 360 in the front is pretty easy as hell. Some require a bit of filing to make the screws fit, but I think black ice 360s fit perfectly.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Should work well. i would go with 45s in the compartment where you are doing 2x rads. Fitting a slim 360 in the front is pretty easy as hell. Some require a bit of filing to make the screws fit, but I think black ice 360s fit perfectly.


Think a 420 UT60 in push and a 480 UT60 in p/p can handle 4x780 Ti's and a 4930k at stock?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Think a 420 UT60 in push and a 480 UT60 in p/p can handle 4x780 Ti's and a 4930k at stock?


Should be fine.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its pulling from the inside already?
> 
> Wow.....
> 
> You need a better case with more filters than an Instagram tea party.


So a new case would help







?


----------



## Devildog83

OK here is the parts I am ordering to do my CPU loop in a new 750D. I am making my own jig to bend the acrylic tubing so I hope that turns out.

Does anyone have any idea about how much liquid it will take to fill this system? The Mayhem Pastel Ice only makes 1L, maybe I need 2 of them.


----------



## phynce

Quick question for the pros any one ran this terminal (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel.html)
backwards or upside down? I am moving from a bay res/pump to a mod top/ cylinder res and the best routing option I can come up with is from the bottom of this bridge

TIA


----------



## skupples

From the bottom is standard.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phynce*
> 
> Quick question for the pros any one ran this terminal (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel.html)
> backwards or upside down? I am moving from a bay res/pump to a mod top/ cylinder res and the best routing option I can come up with is from the bottom of this bridge
> 
> TIA


You can run it upside down







. Though, the top port will be facing the rear of the case/chassis btw.


----------



## phynce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> From the bottom is standard.


Looking at the installation guide it doesn't show it from the bottom I would prefer to run it this way will the bottom card get adequate flow being below the bottom/side inlet


----------



## wermad

The "EK" logo marks the bottom of the bridge. The only concern i see and I've mentioned this, the bottom only has one port, and this will be facing the rear of your case. A 90° adapter/fitting will cure this though.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I was talking to Daphne about the EK block for my new KPE
> 
> 
> 
> She was so impressed with the performance that she has nothing but disdain for air coolers now
> 
> 
> 
> That's the face of disgust.


I'm with the dog. Air coolers just seem positively archaic to me now...


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm with the dog. Air coolers just seem positively archaic to me now...


Yeah, but I just don't have the heart to strip down my Devil's.











OK so money had some to do with it too. I am sure once I have the bug fully implanted I will have to do what seems unthinkable to me now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

once you cross over from AIO you'll catch it, lol.. I skipped AIO and went straight from air to custom loops lol


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> OK here is the parts I am ordering to do my CPU loop in a new 750D. I am making my own jig to bend the acrylic tubing so I hope that turns out.
> 
> Does anyone have any idea about how much liquid it will take to fill this system? The Mayhem Pastel Ice only makes 1L, maybe I need 2 of them.


Take my word as a grain of salt until verified. I have 2x280mm radiators that are 55 mm thick, a 240 @ 30mm and a 120 @30mm as well as a 250mm reservoir, cpu block and 2 gpu blocks, and I used just over 1 liter.


----------



## lowfat

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> once you cross over from AIO you'll catch it, lol.. I skipped AIO and went straight from air to custom loops lol


I went from stock cooling to oil submersion to a Thermaltake Volcano 7 to full water cooling in about 4 months.









Although CLCs are a relatively new product. Such things didn't exist when i started to use water.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Certainly there are plenty of scenarios where traditional air coolers will work better for people; my comment was tongue in cheek. Some don't have the money or time to throw around necessary for water cooling. Some may just not want to deal with the headache of draining the loop and removing tubing etc just to replace a video card. Everybody has their preferences but to me the performance gained from the cool temps makes water cooling an absolute MUST!


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Certainly there are plenty of scenarios where traditional air coolers will work better for people; my comment was tongue in cheek. Some don't have the money or time to throw around necessary for water cooling. Some may just not want to deal with the headache of draining the loop and removing tubing etc just to replace a video card. Everybody has their preferences but to me the performance gained from the cool temps makes water cooling an absolute MUST!


Mine stay pretty cool but if I have them at full load I have to ramp the fans up and it get's a bit noisy. I don't mind it so much though. Someday I an sure I will either get these under water or get different cards and put those under water.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Take my word as a grain of salt until verified. I have 2x280mm radiators that are 55 mm thick, a 240 @ 30mm and a 120 @30mm as well as a 250mm reservoir, cpu block and 2 gpu blocks, and I used just over 1 liter.


Personally with a 60mm 360, 45mm 240, 250mL res, CPU/GPU blocks, all in a Switch 810, I used about 1.4L of Pastel Green. I would definitely recommend that he should at least buy two bottles of Pastel Ice White. One bottle most likely won't cut it for his loop.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The "EK" logo marks the bottom of the bridge. The only concern i see and I've mentioned this, the bottom only has one port, and this will be facing the rear of your case. A 90° adapter/fitting will cure this though.


I wish EK would give us a clean acrylic bridge that was compatible with the rest of the blocks and not just the CSQ series.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> once you cross over from AIO you'll catch it, lol..


expensively true. i spent $150 on my initial XSPC kit. saw it on the shelf while at microcenter and thought "oh that would be a fun project for not much money". It took less than month before i started looking at GPU blocks. Found that the XSPC razor for my gtx780 was highly reviewed. i figured what the hell? i'm only in for $150 at this point so i spent another $150 on the vga block and back plate for a total of $300. great value. i could now overclock the cpu 1.2Ghz above stock and my computer still runs twice as quiet as it did at stock speed and air cooling. i saw a gain of 30+ fps playing arma 3 on its absolute highest settings.

.....that bliss lasted for another month. then i found you jerks.

now you have me rebuilding my system and dumping an additional..... honestly i don't want to count the total amount because i would have to kick myself for spending that much money on a system that was running perfectly fine. now you have me modding cases, adding radiators, running push/pull fan configurations (which costs a small fortune btw), reservoirs and upgrading pumps

so ya.....thanks guys


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I wish EK would give us a clean acrylic bridge that was compatible with the rest of the blocks and not just the CSQ series.


As long as ppl keep cracking their plexi tops, not likely







. Derick has touched on this and one of the main reasons is that it's harder to mill acrylic. So not any time soon







.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I wish EK would give us a clean acrylic bridge that was compatible with the rest of the blocks and not just the CSQ series.


Crystal links look better anyway.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Crystal links look better anyway.


Well i'll be going Crystal links in the future, and they have grown on me







I always liked the CSQ bridge though.

Better to just go with the acetal version of the summit block?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_1123&products_id=40363

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_1123&products_id=34440


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Well i'll be going Crystal links in the future, and they have grown on me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always liked the CSQ bridge though.
> 
> Better to just go with the acetal version of the summit block?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_1123&products_id=40363
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_1123&products_id=34440


Newer blocks that beat the summit cost about the same or less.


----------



## SRICE4904

Add me


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Newer blocks that beat the summit cost about the same or less.


I had originally settled on the EK clear CSQ block. But i think the black ice acrylic top will keep the dark green/black theme i'm going for and look great.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I had originally settled on the EK clear CSQ block. But i think the black ice acrylic top will keep the dark *green/black* theme i'm going for and look great.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've had both the FC bridge and crystal links and I agree with lowfat. The Crystal links look way better!


----------



## duynhanle

Can I join the party? Also, I have the MSI Lightning 680, I am looking for the bridge so I can get rid of my J bend there on the block, anyone have a clue what its called? I have been on EK's Site about the FC Bridge, but... I can't find anything that looks closely to it.


----------



## elyrly

Just Ghetto rigged my Desktop


----------



## VSG

Watercool has their R4BE heatkiller kits and individual VRM blocks are up for sale in the US: Performance PC page link


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Personally with a 60mm 360, 45mm 240, 250mL res, CPU/GPU blocks, all in a Switch 810, I used about 1.4L of Pastel Green. I would definitely recommend that he should at least buy two bottles of Pastel Ice White. One bottle most likely won't cut it for his loop.


I just spent more than $400 and bought all of my parts. I just got 1 45mm 360 rad and a 270 res. I will try just one bottle of the ice white and if I need more I will by it. I am ready for this.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I just spent more than $400 and bought all of my parts. I just got 1 45mm 360 rad and a 270 res. I will try just one bottle of the ice white and if I need more I will by it. I am ready for this.


Would love to know your results. This is on an AMD Build right?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Epic







always wanted to do quadfire 7970s. I had planned to do just that, paired with a 3930k, and a triple portrait 120hz setup. Money got in the way, but i had to come to realization that i couldn't afford to maintain a rig of that statue


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Would love to know your results. This is on an AMD Build right?


Yes it is. I am hoping not just for better looks but to be able to run cool enough to get a 5+Ghz clock 24/7.


----------



## MeanBruce

Going ahead with two of these Monsoon thermal sensors for Fluid-In and Fluid-Out on the 360 rad, just not certain whether to go matte black or red. My rig is mostly black with red accents here and there.

Thermal information for the RX360 v3 sent to the Aquaero 6; should be interesting to dial in the maximum radiator Delta T with fan and pump rpms.

Thanks guys.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1141_1142&products_id=35500

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/MON-TPL-RD_01_zpsf2f5612b.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7032_zpsa7b4c9d7.jpg.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Rocketscience.mx for 1/2" od copper fittings a'la C47s. Very tempting but I got these Monsoons on special and it was cheaper since I at least need 26 fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It is a sea of C47s.............many $$$ tied up in that, lol


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is a sea of C47s.............many $$$ tied up in that, lol


Looks like a capture from an episode of "How it's made".


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question for anyone using bitspower fittings. Which color more closely resembles nickel plating? silver shining (shiny silver) or black sparkle?


----------



## VSG

Silver shining


----------



## sinnedone

Thank you very much, that gets me farther along in the process.


----------



## VSG

Let me know if you want pics of a nickel block next to silver shining fittings, although they will have to wait till next weekend when I get back in the country.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Let me know if you want pics of a nickel block next to silver shining fittings, although they will have to wait till next weekend when I get back in the country.


Yes if you have time it would be appreciated.


----------



## VSG

No problem but like I said it will be the weekend of May 3 till I get back in the US if you are ok waiting that long. I am sure others would be more than willing to take a similar photo in the meantime.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> EDIT: Just two 8P-PowerCables ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... thought that was 1*6P and 2*8P


They are non-standard 8 pins, you need to make sure your PSU can deliver 28 amps on each of the 8 pins (normally they only carry 12 amps each). And the 8-pins must not share a rail with CPU or Sata/Molex. And probably you need the wires and pins to be 16 AWG.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> false
> I went from stock cooling to oil submersion to a Thermaltake Volcano 7 to full water cooling in about 4 months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although CLCs are a relatively new product. Such things didn't exist when i started to use water.


Asetek Vapochill was an all-in-one! http://www.hardocp.com/article/2000/05/25/asetek_vapochill


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Asetek Vapochill was an all-in-one! http://www.hardocp.com/article/2000/05/25/asetek_vapochill


I don't think that could be considered a stepping stone to water cooling.









I used a single stage back in 2010 on my 24/7 folding/gaming rig for maybe 3 months. The noise started to drive me insane.


----------



## (sic)

Looking for advice on how to remove nickel plating from copper.

I've been dealing with the awful original nickel plating from EK for sometime now and I'm done... I actually never found bits of the nickel in my rads or pump after numerous tear downs, so I don't know what happened to it, but I know the majority is not on the blocks anymore.

Can I use acetone to remove the rest of the nickel plating or is there a better home safe way?

Thanks


----------



## Michalius

Pics to come later but here's the skinny. first for reference, my loop:



While disassembling last night, I noticed a fleck of verdigris on the center pipe in the Aqualis reservoir. After getting everything apart, there's a nasty film in my Supremacy block as well as more verdigris, a *very* nasty film covering the entire bottom of my reservoir, as well as a brownish staining on the Aqualis pipe.

If my loop weren't 100% copper pipe, I'd imagine that it's plasticizer.

What's strange is that everything was totally flushed prior to filling. It was filled with nothing but distilled and then Mayhem's Biocide to even out the Ph level to 7. I'll be honest, I haven't checked it in about 2 months, but even then it was still at 6.8.

There's too much gunk for it to be a contaminant, so it has to be a chemical reaction. I think the only metals in my loop are copper, nickel, and brass.

I know there's a ****ton of variables that could be at play here to determine anything in particular, but I wan't to possibly change things up when I reassemble the loop to prevent this from happening again. Perhaps it's only an aesthetic issue, in which case I'll probably be swapping out the reservoir for something non-transparent. Anyone with copper pipe come across a similar situation?

*edit*

I found a pic that shows some of it, circled in red:


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Looking for advice on how to remove nickel plating from copper.
> 
> I've been dealing with the awful original nickel plating from EK for sometime now and I'm done... I actually never found bits of the nickel in my rads or pump after numerous tear downs, so I don't know what happened to it, but I know the majority is not on the blocks anymore.
> 
> Can I use acetone to remove the rest of the nickel plating or is there a better home safe way?
> 
> Thanks


Would love to see pictures of this... Are they EN series blocks? What coolant are you using? No acetone will not work. You would need to pretty much shell blast them.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I've had both the FC bridge and crystal links and I agree with lowfat. The Crystal links look way better!


Agreed


----------



## dallas1990

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13534/fan-887/Phobya_120mm_x_25mm_Nano-2G_1500rpm_PWM_Fan_-_Red_LED.html?tl=c365s936b189
Would these be good rad fans for rads up to 45mm thick?


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang, I need the best 140mm Rads/$. What would you suggest me? Also I'll need a quiet fan to go with it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang, I need the best 140mm Rads/$. What would you suggest me? Also I'll need a quiet fan to go with it.


Ncix carries Swiftech single and dual 140 rads. You wont find anything cheaper in Canada.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> So on the R9 270X I made an acrylic back plate. I was however worried about the causing a temperature increase. My custom built GPU block screws and bolts had just enough space to place a small nylon washer between the acrylic and the card. Is this enough or should i have more space? about 3/16"
> 
> please comment.
> 
> Update: sorry about the screen shots poor quality


Did it actually increase temps? That would be enough room for some heat to escape alright, but still unless you have some airflow it is going to get trapped in there and just radiate back at itself. The card may not make enough heat to matter though. I suppose you just have to monitor the card temps and see if they go up, also you could check by feeling the acrylic after some heavy stress testing and if it is warm to the touch that may give you an idea how much heat is being put off and how much it is retaining. At least it looks cool


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Ncix carries Swiftech single and dual 140 rads. You wont find anything cheaper in Canada.


Thx for the info


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Pics to come later but here's the skinny. first for reference, my loop:
> 
> 
> 
> While disassembling last night, I noticed a fleck of verdigris on the center pipe in the Aqualis reservoir. After getting everything apart, there's a nasty film in my Supremacy block as well as more verdigris, a *very* nasty film covering the entire bottom of my reservoir, as well as a brownish staining on the Aqualis pipe.
> 
> If my loop weren't 100% copper pipe, I'd imagine that it's plasticizer.
> 
> What's strange is that everything was totally flushed prior to filling. It was filled with nothing but distilled and then Mayhem's Biocide to even out the Ph level to 7. I'll be honest, I haven't checked it in about 2 months, but even then it was still at 6.8.
> 
> There's too much gunk for it to be a contaminant, so it has to be a chemical reaction. I think the only metals in my loop are copper, nickel, and brass.
> 
> I know there's a ****ton of variables that could be at play here to determine anything in particular, but I wan't to possibly change things up when I reassemble the loop to prevent this from happening again. Perhaps it's only an aesthetic issue, in which case I'll probably be swapping out the reservoir for something non-transparent. Anyone with copper pipe come across a similar situation?
> 
> *edit*
> 
> I found a pic that shows some of it, circled in red:


Is there Acetic acid in Mayhems biocide? Did you flush the rads really well or was it a cursory clean?

Copper verdigris is caused by an acidic environment,copper will dull to a brown normally.

It doesnt 'gunk' either,its a salt,nothing like plasticizer or other compounds of that nature. Can you provide a pic of the block? Close as you can get it?


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Would love to see pictures of this... Are they EN series blocks? What coolant are you using? No acetone will not work. You would need to pretty much shell blast them.


I don't have pictures to show, but just about all the nickel is gone from the block. Using only distilled and PT nuke PHN. The only reason I have continued to use these blocks is because I saw no increase in temps or damage to the pump (although this requires frequent tear downs). This has been an on going process for a couple years now. All three blocks are EN.

Are there no other alternatives to blasting?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Is there Acetic acid in Mayhems biocide? Did you flush the rads really well or was it a cursory clean?
> 
> Copper verdigris is caused by an acidic environment,copper will dull to a brown normally.
> 
> It doesnt 'gunk' either,its a salt,nothing like plasticizer or other compounds of that nature. Can you provide a pic of the block? Close as you can get it?


Yeah, planning to take some pics of all the weird stuff tonight. For the Mayhem's page it says:

CONTAINS COPPER SULPHATE, CITRIC ACID AND DYES﻿

Thinking it might be that citric acid. However, my Ph level was 7.

As per the rads, I flushed them with a drill pump really thoroughly.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is a sea of C47s.............many $$$ tied up in that, lol
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Looks like a capture from an episode of "How it's made".
Click to expand...

They're actually not C47s. They look like them but they're not. These are actually for 1/2" copper/acrylic tube. They work in the same manner as C47s, though they're a bit larger (12.7mm vs 12mm). This slight difference is why you can't really use imperial 1/2" with metric 12mm stuff in the world of hard acrylic and copper. The difference are subtle but enough that they may cause a leak or just not fit.


----------



## (sic)

What about something like this to remove the nickel plating from my blocks?

MetalX B-9 Nickel Stripper


----------



## Balsagna

I can't wait to rebuild my loop... I guess I'll wait till I get a new CPU/Motherboard before I do that though. Theyr'e right around the corner, and my MSI Z77A-GD65 and 2700K are getting rather dated


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I can't wait to rebuild my loop... I guess I'll wait till I get a new CPU/Motherboard before I do that though. Theyr'e right around the corner, *and my MSI Z77A-GD65 and 2700K are getting rather dated*


How so? SB on average overclocks a lot higher than Haswell, and doesnt perform much worse clock for clock.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Did it actually increase temps? That would be enough room for some heat to escape alright, but still unless you have some airflow it is going to get trapped in there and just radiate back at itself. The card may not make enough heat to matter though. I suppose you just have to monitor the card temps and see if they go up, also you could check by feeling the acrylic after some heavy stress testing and if it is warm to the touch that may give you an idea how much heat is being put off and how much it is retaining. At least it looks cool


no after gaming all day i see lower temps with the new setup.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> What about something like this to remove the nickel plating from my blocks?
> 
> MetalX B-9 Nickel Stripper


I would ask about that. It says stripping nickel from steel which is a lot harder than copper.

looked a bit harder and says its safe to use on copper.


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I would ask about that. It says stripping nickel from steel which is a lot harder than copper.
> 
> looked a bit harder and says its safe to use on copper.


Eh, worth a shot I suppose. Certainly a lot cheaper than buyer three new blocks. Unless the new nickel plated blocks are safer, I'll be running copper in my next build...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Eh, worth a shot I suppose. Certainly a lot cheaper than buyer three new blocks. Unless the new nickel plated blocks are safer, I'll be running copper in my next build...


I would still run anti-corrosive either way. nickel or copper.


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would still run anti-corrosive either way. nickel or copper.


Plan to. I recently purchased a couple bottles of Mayhems Pastel black.

I will give this stripper a shot within the next month and report back with before and after pics.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Would a silver kill coil work well in an all copper loop?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Would a silver kill coil work well in an all copper loop?


In an all copper loop you shouldn't have any problems using a silver kill coil.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In an all copper loop you shouldn't have any problems using a silver kill coil.


Great!!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In an all copper loop you shouldn't have any problems using a silver kill coil.


Would he not be at risk of red plague?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Im running copper blocks / brass radiators with destilled + silver (fittings and a coil) and I havent had any problems.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Would he not be at risk of red plague?


Red plague only affects silver "plated" copper.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_plague_(corrosion)


----------



## wermad

Plain distilled, nothing added. All ek copper nickel plated blocks, brass fittings, copper rads, nylon tube, and no issues


----------



## Unownbeing

Im a little bit worried about the EK ZMT tubing, I just ran about 4' of T.V coax wire and when I pulled it out there was quite a bit of sticky ink, looking stuff on the cable. I plan on washing the tubing with dish detergent and rinsing with hot distilled. Hoping this wont be an issue as I have heard of people having gunking on blocks with this tubing as well.
Just thought I try an get some feedback from those that have been using this stuff for a while now.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Im a little bit worried about the EK ZMT tubing, I just ran about 4' of T.V coax wire and when I pulled it out there was quite a bit of sticky ink, looking stuff on the cable. I plan on washing the tubing with dish detergent and rinsing with hot distilled. Hoping this wont be an issue as I have heard of people having gunking on blocks with this tubing as well.
> Just thought I try an get some feedback from those that have been using this stuff for a while now.


I messed around a bunch with this stuff in my last build, I didn't notice any issues at all. I wonder what that's from.


----------



## Unownbeing

Hopefully its just from the manufacturing process, and doesn't leach out over time. I kind of abraded the outside of the tube with the rubber jacket of the cable and shows up too. Oh well a good wash will hopefully help


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Hopefully its just from the manufacturing process, and doesn't leach out over time. I kind of abraded the outside of the tube with the rubber jacket of the cable and shows up too. Oh well a good wash will hopefully help


I have the EK Zmt Matte Black, and have been using it for 2 months with no apparent issues yet. If you find issues with yours, please let me know. I would rather spend $30usd and not worry than have to tear everything apart and clean it.

I am also considering going up to the largest tubing size. And just trade out to the proper compression fittings. I am going to stick with EK compressions, but what is the best or highest suggested tubing that won't cause issues later. I am going to use clear this round.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have the EK Zmt Matte Black, and have been using it for 2 months with no apparent issues yet. If you find issues with yours, please let me know. I would rather spend $30usd and not worry than have to tear everything apart and clean it.
> 
> I am also considering going up to the largest tubing size. And just trade out to the proper compression fittings. I am going to stick with EK compressions, but what is the best or highest suggested tubing that won't cause issues later. I am going to use clear this round.


I found plasticizer type buildup inside my CPU block after 5 months of using Tygon Norprene & Liquid Utopia. I'm wondering if the Utopia caused it, or if the rubber hose can leach other things since there is no plastic content.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I found plasticizer type buildup inside my CPU block after 5 months of using Tygon Norprene & Liquid Utopia. I'm wondering if the Utopia caused it, or if the rubber hose can leach other things since there is no plastic content.


I have no idea :-( I have the EK Koolant in my loop, and will stick with it simply because everything I am using is Ek and will be easier if I warranty anything... At least it narrows everything down.


----------



## VSG

Doubt it is Utopia by itself. My clear tubing is still as clear as before.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Doubt it is Utopia by itself. My clear tubing is still as clear as before.










I'm moving to Clear Mayhem's X1 this time. Also using White tubing. My GPU temps didn't change @ all, but i'm still feeling the need to take them apart just to check. I'm taking the bridge apart anyways so that I can remove the CLU, re-do all my thermal pads, & install SLI links instead of the EK view blocker of death. Might as well clean the inside of the blocks while i'm at it.


----------



## VSG

Let us know what you find. I don't know what that build-up you found is, can't be plasticizer from Norprene surely?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Let us know what you find. I don't know what that build-up you found is, can't be plasticizer from Norprene surely?


Crap from rads potentially.

Norprene would not have any plasticizer issues


----------



## Blackops_2




----------



## wermad

Dat b.p.


----------



## PC Upgrade

http://www.overclock.net/t/1484351/project-red-twister


----------



## cyphon

Got a new project started up using ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition and a 4930k CPU. Will have quadfire 7950s as well. All in a CaseLabs M10 case. Going with a Chicago Blackhawks theme

*Build log*

A little sample of what I have done so far


----------



## JLMS2010

Does anybody have any experience with this Alphacool fluid? I bought an Alphacool kit D5/UT60 for my son and there wasn't enough fluid to fill everything. I added distilled water to fill to it. Should I leave it or drain it and just use distilled water? It says not to mix with any other fluids. I figured distilled water would be fine. Thanks


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Let us know what you find. I don't know what that build-up you found is, can't be plasticizer from Norprene surely?


it was like rubber powder turned into gelatin.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Crap from rads potentially.
> 
> Norprene would not have any plasticizer issues


My rads so clean you could see your self in them. I two stage flush them w/ a massive sump pump for hours each time.

note: "plasticizer like" obviously norprene doesn't/isn't supposed to have plasticizer.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it was like rubber powder turned into gelatin.
> My rads so clean you could see your self in them. I two stage flush them w/ a massive sump pump for hours each time.
> 
> note: "plasticizer like" obviously norprene doesn't/isn't supposed to have plasticizer.


Haha, ok.

ridiculous hypothesis: Maybe some bits of the norprene broke off or something and got ground into a fine paste by the motors?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Haha, ok.
> 
> ridiculous hypothesis: Maybe some bits of the norprene broke off or something and got ground into a fine paste by the motors?











Stranger things have happened. I haven't seen many Tygon norprene users around here, so maybe there is a semi-common issue with buildup, we just haven't heard about it too much, yet. Not to mention those that have used it, did so for only a few months.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sounds like a production by product,I can't say more than that really as I don't have the tube in front of me to look at.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds like a production by product,I can't say more than that really as I don't have the tube in front of me to look at.


That makes sense as well. I didn't clean the tube before using, just a quick rinse.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Just making sure before I put my loop together, so the silver plated barbs on the monsoon compression fittings will not harm my ek supreme nickel plexi block?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Just making sure before I put my loop together, so the silver plated barbs on the monsoon compression fittings will not harm my ek supreme nickel plexi block?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Just making sure before I put my loop together, so the silver plated barbs on the monsoon compression fittings will not harm my ek supreme nickel plexi block?


I would say not,not with the threaded section. Damaging the plating is unavoidable and the threads are on the waterside.

In other news...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1484699/need-help-watercooling-sapphire-r9-290x/20_20#post_22164863

Never met anyone like this guy......


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Does anybody have any experience with this Alphacool fluid? I bought an Alphacool kit D5/UT60 for my son and there wasn't enough fluid to fill everything. I added distilled water to fill to it. Should I leave it or drain it and just use distilled water? It says not to mix with any other fluids. I figured distilled water would be fine. Thanks


If someone hasn't responded, I remember Mayhem saying, (and yes, different coolant, same principle) when you dilute his coolant, you loose potential anti corrosive, fungal, etc. I would say it's the same with Alphacool. But as you see Wermad posted couple posts back, he uses all distilled with no issues.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would say not,not with the threaded section. Damaging the plating is unavoidable and the threads are on the waterside.
> 
> ...


So its not a good idea to use silver on a nickel block?... Great, hopefully the fittings I got from jab tech won't be silver plated.


----------



## ledzepp3

Hey all









How would you guys suggest polishing/shining up an EK backplate? It's for a 290X, and I'm not sure what would be safe to use on the surface







any help would be appreciated!

-Zepp


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would say not,not with the threaded section. Damaging the plating is unavoidable and the threads are on the waterside.
> 
> In other news...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1484699/need-help-watercooling-sapphire-r9-290x/20_20#post_22164863
> 
> Never met anyone like this guy......


Ha, that was a good read









Just sad I missed whatever was cleaned up by the moderator.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Ha, that was a good read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just sad I missed whatever was cleaned up by the moderator.


I like his proof on why B was wrong. "My brother has one!"


----------



## skupples

Kevin Bacon was not in footloose.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would say not,not with the threaded section. Damaging the plating is unavoidable and the threads are on the waterside.
> 
> In other news...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1484699/need-help-watercooling-sapphire-r9-290x/20_20#post_22164863
> 
> Never met anyone like this guy......
> 
> 
> 
> Ha, that was a good read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just sad I missed whatever was cleaned up by the moderator.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Ha, that was a good read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just sad I missed whatever was cleaned up by the moderator.
> 
> 
> 
> I like his proof on why B was wrong. "My brother has one!"
Click to expand...

He posted a delta temp graph and insisted that they where actual temps...then wouldnt accept otherwise.
Apparently i dont know what im talking about.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He posted a delta temp graph and insisted that they where actual temps...then wouldnt accept otherwise.
> Apparently i dont know what im talking about.


Do you ever?


----------



## MeanBruce

This outstanding thread cannot fall to page 2, evah!









bump

More great gear from my friendly little neighborhood computer water cooling store, Monsoon thermal probes and EK clear Ekoolant.

Probes feed into the Aquaero 6. Fluid IN, Fluid Out, radiator Delta T.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7054_zpsa25d283b.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7049_zpse48d0a10.jpg.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> This outstanding thread cannot fall to page 2, evah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bump
> 
> More great gear from my friendly little neighborhood computer water cooling store, Monsoon thermal probes and EK clear Ekoolant.
> 
> Probes feed into the Aquaero 6. Fluid IN, Fluid Out, radiator Delta T.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7054_zpsa25d283b.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7049_zpse48d0a10.jpg.html


Is that the little 87-key WASD? If it is, how do you like it?


----------



## Mydog

Is there any reason why people here don't use the "inline temp sensors" like the these from Aqua Computer http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291

I'm using them in in several rigs hooked up to either the mobo, fan-controller with temps-displayed or Aquarero


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> If someone hasn't responded, I remember Mayhem saying, (and yes, different coolant, same principle) when you dilute his coolant, you loose potential anti corrosive, fungal, etc. I would say it's the same with Alphacool. But as you see Wermad posted couple posts back, he uses all distilled with no issues.


Yeah, I use all distilled in my other system and it has been fine so far. Thanks.


----------



## badkarma3059

"Is there any reason why people here don't use the "inline temp sensors" like the these from Aqua Computer http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291

I'm using them in in several rigs hooked up to either the mobo, fan-controller with temps-displayed or Aquarero"

I used the Phobya version in my rig and tied into my Aquaero 6XT.
can see one that the radiator out and one at the gpu link out. Not the best pic but the probes work great.


----------



## d00bzilla

because its always easier to just screw a temp sensor into a rad cap i would assume that's the? its the reason i didn't buy an inline.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mydog*
> 
> Is there any reason why people here don't use the "inline temp sensors" like the these from Aqua Computer http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291
> 
> I'm using them in in several rigs hooked up to either the mobo, fan-controller with temps-displayed or Aquarero


I MUCH prefer inline temp sensors to the plug/probe kind. I currently have 4 of them in my loop - one on the inlet/outlet on each rad. They work great and don't require any extra available ports to screw into.


----------



## Mydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I MUCH prefer inline temp sensors to the plug/probe kind. I currently have 4 of them in my loop - one on the inlet/outlet on each rad. They work great and don't require any extra available ports to screw into.


Exactly why I use them too









Do you see a big difference,if any at all, from the inlet to outlet?


----------



## skupples

Mean Bruce is spoiled. He lives within 20 minutes of PPC.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Mean Bruce is spoiled. He lives within 20 minutes of PPC.


10minutes in light traffic.









skupps if you want my Aquaero 6 stainless faceplate to mod or paint or experiment with let me know, I'll either ship it to you (free of course) or if you want I'll drive it over to PPCS and they can drop it into your next shipment.

Either way man.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Is that the little 87-key WASD? If it is, how do you like it?


It's actually a very small 60-key 60% PFU Happy Hacking Pro 2, no numberpad, two USB ports in the rear, yet the keys are all full-size.

All Topre capacitance activated switches, I love it, it's like typing on boobs.









This pic compares the size to a 360mm rad:



Sorry for moving off-topic Mr. B.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Mean Bruce is spoiled. He lives within 20 minutes of PPC.


I'd love to have the luxury of walking into a computer store like that on any given day just to browse through all of the awesomeness if not to buy something rather than cyber shopping.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'd love to have the luxury of walking into a computer store like that on any given day just to browse through all of the awesomeness if not to buy something rather than cyber shopping.


gotta call ahead/order ahead, but yeah. They don't really have a store front presence. The front of the store is full of massive steel stamped cases.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> gotta call ahead/order ahead, but yeah. They don't really have a store front presence. The front of the store is full of massive steel stamped cases.


Yea I was kind of disappointed when I did a pickup there. Expected to be able to browse around at all the killer stuff but its really just a warehouse with a small front desk where you walk in and a computer terminal to order parts from. I had a return that I needed to process for someones build and needed it same day, so made the long ~1.5hr drive.

Still awesome being close to them - I get parts next day for standard ~$6 shipping if I order in the morning







.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> gotta call ahead/order ahead, but yeah. They don't really have a store front presence. The front of the store is full of massive steel stamped cases.


Yea but like phillyd already stated if you call ahead and they know you're coming, they will walk you around all the shelves of endless glory so you can choose your components, they will accommodate you.

And they are very personable, I was there today and went over some fan sleevings "made to order" with their Master Sleever and she does outstanding work.


----------



## skupples

will have to get the tour next time. I gave them a week's notice, but didn't ask to go around the block.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will have to get the tour next time. I gave them a week's notice, but didn't ask to go around the block.


Guided tour with happy ending.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Guided tour with happy ending.


Not sure if I would want a happy ending from anyone @ PPCS.


----------



## Unownbeing

Delete Post


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not sure if I would want a happy ending from anyone @ PPCS.










, well you know what I mean, driving home those parts, hehe.









...


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Yea but like phillyd already stated if you call ahead and they know you're coming, they will walk you around all the shelves of endless glory so you can choose your components, they will accommodate you.
> 
> And they are very personable, I was there today and went over some fan sleevings "made to order" with their Master Sleever and she does outstanding work.


Man you are lucky, I have a couple cheezy compmuter repair shops and a best buy close to me.







Even microcenter is 1,000 miles away. My parts are taking a week to get here because I didn't want to pay an extra $25 to get them in 3 days. Patience is not one of my virtue's.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Does anyone have a huge folder/collection of build pics that they've built up over the years they'd be willing to share either via email or drop box if it's too big? I've been meaning to start saving great pics I find here and on other sites but it would be great if someone has an up to date, really solid collection of build photos they could boost my collection with









PM me if you do


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18771/ex-tub-1761/XSPC_FLX_Premium_Grade_PVC_Tubing_-_12_ID_34OD_-_2_Meter_65_Feet_Retail_Pack_-_Clear.html?id=Pnbxqpa7&mv_pc=3658

Just ordered this tubing, as I couldn't get much feed back on which clear was a good brand and doesn't cause future problems. Here is to hoping it is good.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18771/ex-tub-1761/XSPC_FLX_Premium_Grade_PVC_Tubing_-_12_ID_34OD_-_2_Meter_65_Feet_Retail_Pack_-_Clear.html?id=Pnbxqpa7&mv_pc=3658
> 
> Just ordered this tubing, as I couldn't get much feed back on which clear was a good brand and doesn't cause future problems. Here is to hoping it is good.


Don't know where or who you asked, but Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT is the most recommended flexible tubing, at least here on the OCN. Can you change your order? I've heard horror stories of the XSPC tubing having issues with Plasticizer leeching.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Don't know where or who you asked, but Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT is the most recommended flexible tubing, at least here on the OCN. Can you change your order? I've heard horror stories of the XSPC tubing having issues with Plasticizer leeching.


Indeed it does.

Advanced LRT is the way to go.


----------



## wermad

From the plasticize thread, the newer xspc stuff does hold but the old stuff, especially the ones in the older rasa kits clouded quickly.

There's a data base in this thread if you want to see how many reports of xspc tube.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Don't know where or who you asked, but Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT is the most recommended flexible tubing, at least here on the OCN. Can you change your order? I've heard horror stories of the XSPC tubing having issues with Plasticizer leeching.


I posted in here twice in the last week and didn't get responses. I will see if I can change the order.

*ignore this rant* but this is seriously what happens every time I order something. I ask for 1 week to a month and get nothing... But the moment I order, someone instantly says no. I hate this stupid wasteful guessing game. This happens at work too, and in personal life, so it's not like it's new... Oh well, on to wasteful spending more money to make my system better only to find out 15 minutes later that I made another wrong decision :-(

No worries. I have an alarm set for 1100 tonight, even though I have to work until 8pm and go back to work at 4am... I will order the Primochill if I can get frozen on the phone before they ship it out. Thanks for the response.


----------



## Jakewat

On the topic of xspc tube, I have some small lengths of uv orange tube in the bottom compartment of my tj07, along with acrylic everywhere else. I'm pretty sure it's the newer stuff and I haven't seen it cause any problems with my pastel orange coolant after about 2 months of use. How bad were the problems with xspc tube because I find it is actually really decent tube. Also I often notice people say colored tube leeches less/ has less problems compared to clear especially when it comes to cheaper tube.


----------



## pandrade11

Any ideas where to get stronger clamps for my reservoir? The ones I currently use are very weak and flimsy and slowly just sag down here's how I have them set up


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandrade11*
> 
> Any ideas where to get stronger clamps for my reservoir? The ones I currently use are very weak and flimsy and slowly just sag down here's how I have them set up


Is that the Res x2? I thought about setting up a dual res the same way, lol. If it sags over time, have you considered putting a thin piece of rubber to cause traction between the res and the clamp? You could use two small pieces from tubing.


----------



## SinatraFan

Pandrade,

I know what you are saying, but I found they hold a bit better when clamping to the tube itself and not the end caps.



But there are other clamp options...

reservoir accessories


----------



## aerial

meow


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I had a peach of a comment but after seeing the avatar...

I will save it for another day.


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I had a peach of a comment but after seeing the avatar...
> 
> I will save it for another day.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I had a peach of a comment but after seeing the avatar...
> 
> I will save it for another day.


HAHAHHAHAA!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> meow


"Kitty" - boo


----------



## Thrasher1016

It's not Cat Saturday yet, people!!!









I have a GREAT comment too, but no, I think I'll wait as well.

Still, double check the dust filters with that one around!









Thanks - T


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From the plasticize thread, the newer xspc stuff does hold but the old stuff, especially the ones in the older rasa kits clouded quickly.
> 
> There's a data base in this thread if you want to see how many reports of xspc tube.


This. I've been using the newer XSPC stuff for about two years and haven't had any issues


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This. I've been using the newer XSPC stuff for about two years and haven't had any issues


I have the XSPC tube in a build for about a year now and no issues as of yet either


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang anyone ever hacked their own reservoir? If so what did you use?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang anyone ever hacked their own reservoir? If so what did you use?


HAcked Reservoir? WHAT?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang anyone ever hacked their own reservoir? If so what did you use?


Yes. I used a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel. Went right through it like butter. I'd be careful if you're thinking of trying to use a hack saw as you can easily crack the res.

Edit: Never mind. I didn't make mine from scratch lol.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> HAcked Reservoir? WHAT?


Hacked or DIY, meaning creating a reservoir using everyday parts.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Just cancelled the XSPC tubing and ordered the Primochill 1/2x3/4. I have the Primochill Matte Black 3/8x5/8 in Big Brother right now, and will switch it out when the new stuff arrives.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> meow
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice case. Plus, very beautiful Russian Blue cat. Had one myself, but she disappeared on me. Only got the tabby and a very fuzzy Husky now.

Not water cooling parts, but its a bracket for one.



Had a metal fab shop make it for me, but had to drill the mount holes out for it.

I just noticed on this pic I took. Frys does advertise.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> HAcked Reservoir? WHAT?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hacked or DIY, meaning creating a reservoir using everyday parts.
Click to expand...

I have seen numerous bottles etc...I made a 6 bay res recently,I just got the panels machined then welded them up,looks pretty good too.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have seen numerous bottles etc...I made a 6 bay res recently,I just got the panels machined then welded them up,looks pretty good too.


Can you post some pics?


----------



## phynce

Finally got my bay res combo out an put in my 150mm tube/ D5 w/ modtop. Soooooo much quieter.


Thanks to @whitie63 for help with the fittings
As @wermad said the termnal works upside down, but don't look quite right will have to order some crystal links
Still have a bunch to do but heres what I'm running.
what do you guys think
also running xspc tubing with out issues for ~1 yr now.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> Nice case. *Plus, very beautiful Russian Blue cat*. Had one myself, but she disappeared on me. Only got the tabby and a very fuzzy Husky now.


the cat is very pretty, but its most likely not a russian blue. true russian blues have green eyes, not yellow or blue. take my cat Tilly for example, she looks like a russian blue, but shes actually a blue burmese.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> the cat is very pretty, but its most likely not a russian blue. true russian blues have green eyes, not yellow or blue. take my cat Tilly for example, she looks like a russian blue, but shes actually a blue burmese.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Da Kitties


----------



## Blatsz32

Finally got my loop completed. Took awhile to save up the funds. I think it turned out ok for my first time doing a complete CPU/GPU loop. The system could use some nice cable sleeving, but thats for another time.


Any ideas on how to make the SLI thing a ma bobbers look better? that brown is a real eye sore


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> the cat is very pretty, but its most likely not a russian blue. true russian blues have green eyes, not yellow or blue. take my cat Tilly for example, she looks like a russian blue, but shes actually a blue burmese.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I crack up every time I see this pic, lol


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Finally got my loop completed. Took awhile to save up the funds. I think it turned out ok for my first time doing a complete CPU/GPU loop. The system could use some nice cable sleeving, but thats for another time.
> 
> Any ideas on how to make the SLI thing a ma bobbers look better? that brown is a real eye sore


you can paint them, or cover them with an acrylic sticker. if they are indeed sli bridges you could invest in the EVGA pro bridges.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> the cat is very pretty, but its most likely not a russian blue. true russian blues have green eyes, not yellow or blue. take my cat Tilly for example, she looks like a russian blue, but shes actually a blue burmese.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I tend to get a little mixed up. Also, I just notice the coat is not as thick and shiny looking.

This was the one I had.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> if they are indeed sli bridges you could invest in the EVGA pro bridges.


evga 670s. most definitely an sli bridge.
and blats, you only need the 1 bridge. you dont need both.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I crack up every time I see this pic, lol


this is tills the day i rescued her. she was very thankful. i thought for sure she was a russian blue when i rescued her, but the vet let me know that you can tell a true russian blue because they have green eyes and green eyes only. there are a few breeds that have a blue version, russian blues and burmese blues looking very very similar.


just so we dont go too off topic, pics of watercooling.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> and blats, you only need the 1 bridge. you dont need both.


What I was thinking. I thought he might've been doing it for aesthetics. Didn't want to insult his intelligence.


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, I have a quick question for anyone knowledgeable. I just recently purchased an EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES. Both the PPCS and EK site state that it includes a mounting mechanism. But I have no mechanism or equipment in the box I received to mount it anywhere. I am getting told by PPCS that both their own site and EK's site is erroneous and that there is no mechanism supplied, that it would need to be purchased separately.

Can anyone confirm or deny this? I'd really appreciate it, as I feel as though I'm getting pushed around by this particular representative.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question for anyone knowledgeable. I just recently purchased an EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES. Both the PPCS and EK site state that it includes a mounting mechanism. But I have no mechanism or equipment in the box I received to mount it anywhere. I am getting told by PPCS that both their own site and EK's site is erroneous and that there is no mechanism supplied, that it would need to be purchased separately.
> 
> Can anyone confirm or deny this? I'd really appreciate it, as I feel as though I'm getting pushed around by this particular representative.


id go into the EK thread and see if one of the reps in there can help you out.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> id go into the EK thread and see if one of the reps in there can help you out.


Thanks, I'll do that.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question for anyone knowledgeable. I just recently purchased an EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES. Both the PPCS and EK site state that it includes a mounting mechanism. But I have no mechanism or equipment in the box I received to mount it anywhere. I am getting told by PPCS that both their own site and EK's site is erroneous and that there is no mechanism supplied, that it would need to be purchased separately.
> 
> Can anyone confirm or deny this? I'd really appreciate it, as I feel as though I'm getting pushed around by this particular representative.


Is this what you got?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21253/ex-pmp-256/EK_DDC_X-RES_Top_100_w_325_DDC_Pump_EK-DDC_325_X-RES_100.html?id=INPKDFjr&mv_pc=332

If so the specs list a mounting mechanism. But the details says:

*This water pump / reservoir combo unit can be mounted directly on computer chassis by using EK-UNI D5 Holder together with EK-UNI Holder DDC ADD-ON.*


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question for anyone knowledgeable. I just recently purchased an EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES. Both the PPCS and EK site state that it includes a mounting mechanism. But I have no mechanism or equipment in the box I received to mount it anywhere. I am getting told by PPCS that both their own site and EK's site is erroneous and that there is no mechanism supplied, that it would need to be purchased separately.
> 
> Can anyone confirm or deny this? I'd really appreciate it, as I feel as though I'm getting pushed around by this particular representative.


You could also speak to @phillyd since he is with PPCS.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Is this what you got?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21253/ex-pmp-256/EK_DDC_X-RES_Top_100_w_325_DDC_Pump_EK-DDC_325_X-RES_100.html?id=INPKDFjr&mv_pc=332
> 
> If so the specs list a mounting mechanism.


It was from PPCS, but yes, that is the same product I purchased. EK's site and PPCS' site both say it includes a "mounting mechanism".

I am currently getting told by a PPCS rep that both sites are wrong in what is included, and that any mounting assemblies or mechanisms are sold separately.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You could also speak to @phillyd since he is with PPCS.


Thanks for bringing this to my attention, Mike!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question for anyone knowledgeable. I just recently purchased an EK-DDC 3.25 X-RES. Both the PPCS and EK site state that it includes a mounting mechanism. But I have no mechanism or equipment in the box I received to mount it anywhere. I am getting told by PPCS that both their own site and EK's site is erroneous and that there is no mechanism supplied, that it would need to be purchased separately.
> 
> Can anyone confirm or deny this? I'd really appreciate it, as I feel as though I'm getting pushed around by this particular representative.


I'll send you a PM so we can get this worked out.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks for bringing this to my attention, Mike!
> I'll send you a PM so we can get this worked out.


PM received and replied. Thanks for being on top of this you guys!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have seen numerous bottles etc...I made a 6 bay res recently,I just got the panels machined then welded them up,looks pretty good too.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post some pics?
Click to expand...

Sure.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have seen numerous bottles etc...I made a 6 bay res recently,I just got the panels machined then welded them up,looks pretty good too.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post some pics?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sure.
Click to expand...

Do you think it is absolutely necessary to have the acrylic machined? I wonder how a table saw would do, or possibly a miter saw, if they would be precise enough or not crack it. I looked up acrylic sheets, they aren't to expensive really.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What material is that? Plexi?

This is what I'm looking to make:


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Do you think it is absolutely necessary to have the acrylic machined? I wonder how a table saw would do, or possibly a miter saw, if they would be precise enough or not crack it. I looked up acrylic sheets, they aren't to expensive really.


The methods to cut acrylic sheets that I've used are scoring, using a jigsaw, band saw, or table saw. Scoring is the most accessible but really only good if you're doing straight edges. The jigsaw and band-saw are great if you have to do some curves. The table saw can work too but I've found that I will get some edge chips when running the sheets through. I prefer the band-saw but thats only because I have access to one at work. The acrylic will melt a little so you will need to sand and polish to achieve a smooth edge but any of these methods will require that. I haven't tried a mitre, but I can assume with the lever action being what it is, it would not turn out very well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have seen numerous bottles etc...I made a 6 bay res recently,I just got the panels machined then welded them up,looks pretty good too.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post some pics?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sure.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you think it is absolutely necessary to have the acrylic machined? I wonder how a table saw would do, or possibly a miter saw, if they would be precise enough or not crack it. I looked up acrylic sheets, they aren't to expensive really.
Click to expand...

Sadly,the edges have to be perfectly straight,the welding solvent has no gap fill properties.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What material is that? Plexi?
> 
> This is what I'm looking to make:
Click to expand...

Acrylic sheet,10mm thick.

If you can get each end of the tube perfectly flat then yes,easily.
SEBAR made something very similar.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Still adding people to this club?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I do like that front panel. Also, what did you use for the striping again? I might want to do something similar for my new build


----------



## peterpan

New to watercooling setting up my loop once all my parts are here but want to ask about mayhems pastel coolant is it ready out the bottle or do I need to mix it with something

Thanks in advance


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterpan*
> 
> New to watercooling setting up my loop once all my parts are here but want to ask about mayhems pastel coolant is it ready out the bottle or do I need to mix it with something
> 
> Thanks in advance


Mix with DI Water. It is 750ml water to 250ml Pastel (1 bottle). This obviously makes 1L of fluid. If you want more, then you need to repeat the process. Just make sure you keep the 3:1 water to pastel ratio.

Pastel contains all corrosion inhibitors, biocides, etc that you need, so do not worry about any other additives. You can dye it to alter the color if you'd like, however.


----------



## peterpan

Got it mix with distilled water 3-1 ratio thanks


----------



## rts2468

Here is my old rig, and some pics of my new one.
Old (Single Loop)




New (Dual Loop)


----------



## peterpan

One more ? What is the mixing machine I see people using on YouTube to make custom colors


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterpan*
> 
> One more ? What is the mixing machine I see people using on YouTube to make custom colors


Probably a vortex lamp?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rts2468*
> 
> Here is my old rig, and some pics of my new one.
> Old (Single Loop)
> 
> 
> New (Dual Loop)
> /quote]
> 
> still looks like a single loop to me...


----------



## Puck

I made my own res, but it was for a chiller so a bit different since it had to be insulated and couldn't use acrylic (ethanol in fluid, plus need something that won't crack or shrink at 0c). Link is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1474216/simple-homemade-insulated-reservoir-build


----------



## Devildog83

Just a few things showed up. Looks like the main parts won't be here until Wednesday -


----------



## rts2468

That picture of my new rig isn't even complete. Here is a picture showing where it all connects to the dual pump/reservoir.


If you look at the back of the pump/res block you can see connections, pump 1 In and out is loop 1 and pump 2 in and out is loop 2.
Pump 1 is connected to the MOSFET/VRM > 140mm Radiator > RAM > Pump/Res
Pump 2 is connected to the 150ml EK Res > 2x GTX 470's >XSPC Raystorm AMD > 3x120mm(360mm) Rad> Pump/Res.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

A couple new pics...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## peterpan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Probably a vortex lamp?


Thanks


----------



## Devildog83

I like the builds guys.


----------



## gdubc

is a heads up to anyone looking...*aaawave* has the ap14 on sale.


----------



## wermad

Isn't that the usual price? Before the price gauging due to eol?


----------



## mjcaouette89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> is a heads up to anyone looking...*aaawave* has the ap14 on sale.


Wish I had about $200 to spare I'd replace all my cheap XSPC rad fans with those


----------



## peterpan

Ok I know I need to flush my rads do I need to flush cpu and gpu blocks as well sorry for all the noob questions


----------



## Anoxy

You can to be safe. I never have and haven't had any issues yet fwiw


----------



## skupples

Had someone I know in Japan send me an AP-15. It got here before any of the fans I purchased from people inside the states.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> What I was thinking. I thought he might've been doing it for aesthetics. Didn't want to insult his intelligence.


lol, you wouldn't have. I know it only need one and it is purely for aesthetics.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> lol, you wouldn't have. I know it only need one and it is purely for aesthetics.


Bad a esthetics as you said you don't like the brown from them...


----------



## jpetrach

I guess I get it after reading this.

Air Flow: 50.0 CFM = 83 Fan Speed: 1450 RPM - Noise Level: 21 dbA Additional Information FAN SIZE 120mm


----------



## jpetrach

Scythe Slip Stream Slim 120mm Case Fan (SY1212SL12H)
has anyone tried these I'm looking for a low pro fan for tight spots


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Scythe Slip Stream Slim 120mm Case Fan (SY1212SL12H)
> has anyone tried these I'm looking for a low pro fan for tight spots


I have used one. It worked ok, but is definitely noisier than the 25mm fans


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have seen numerous bottles etc...I made a 6 bay res recently,I just got the panels machined then welded them up,looks pretty good too.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post some pics?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sure.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you think it is absolutely necessary to have the acrylic machined? I wonder how a table saw would do, or possibly a miter saw, if they would be precise enough or not crack it. I looked up acrylic sheets, they aren't to expensive really.
Click to expand...

I've worked with acrylic quite a bit over a lot of years and it's taught me a number of valuable lessons to remember.

If you're making parts to bond together to fabricate something, all your cuts need to be straight and free of tool / machining marks and sanded to at least the smoothness you get from a well used 120 grit belt.

You can use a table saw, as long as you have a new carbide blade with as many teeth as you can get for that diameter.

Once you use that new blade for acrylic, do not ever use it for cutting anything else. Keep a dedicated blade for cutting acrylic.

Set the blade height so that it's just slightly above the piece to be cut . . . . this gives the least chipping

If you use a table saw, you'll need to have a bench belt sander to get the cut edge surface finish to where it's smooth and flat enough for bonding.

Professional fabricators have wet bench belt sanders that give exceptional results, but for personal use, a bench belt sander from Sears or Home Depot is adequate.

If you're parts are small enough, you can use the 4" wide, el-cheapo models, but if you have parts more than ~12" long, you'll have much better results with the 6" wide models.

Always make sure your parts fit together perfectly before bonding, using clamps to overcome irregularities will eventually result in disaster.

The type of acrylic is also a major player.

When you get acrylic sheet from a supplier, it's almost always cast acrylic.

This is what you want to make things with. . . .

It cuts, sand, machines, and bonds well.

Its melting temp is high enough that normal fabrication operations don't cause localized melting.

There is also a type of extruded acrylic, often offered as a replacement for glass panes in doors, that positively sucks if you try to cut / machine it.

Not sure if it's supposed to be more impact resistant than cast, or just cheaper, but it super sucks to work with in the shop.

Extruded melts at much lower temps than cast, and as you cut it, the chips melt and fuse together as a blob jamming the blade and creating all kinds of problems.

Sometimes things you buy that are made of acrylic are made of extrusions, so trying to cut or modify them becomes a nightmare.

Here's a couple pics . . . the first is regular cast sheet being cut on a table saw, the second is what you have to deal with cutting the other crap:





Good luck on your custom res,

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> is a heads up to anyone looking...*aaawave* has the ap14 on sale.


Yeah saw that. Also saw they have AP-15s in stock for $19 w/ free shipping which isn't too bad considering how scarce they are right now. That's $1 less than FCPU was asking for them + shipping. I went ahead and ordered a few more to add to the collection. Seen some crook is now asking $50 a piece for them on fleabay.









Nidec said they are going to keep manufacturing the Gentle Typhoon line of fans, but they apparently aren't going to market them through a distributor any more. Wonder what the minimum quantity is to purchase them? I tried contacting them through their website using the 'Inquiry' page, but never got a reply. Guess maybe it was because I spoofed the required company name and address? I dunno.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Had someone I know in Japan send me an AP-15. It got here before any of the fans I purchased from people inside the states.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, did you paint the RAM's heatspreaders?

About cutting the acrylic with table saw. I know Taps has some good saw blades for plastic. Got a 40 teeth 7-1/4" size one that cut through some acrylic for me pretty good.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I cut acrylic ~1/16" (1.5mm) oversize on the table saw and then clean the edge up on a router table. Leaves a beautiful edge for gluing or just to have a smooth edge.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Hi everyone,

There are some really insane setups in here! I'm piecing together a setup of my own and I need some advice from the club members.
This is what I will be cooling:

i7 3770K OC'd to 4.5ghz on an Asus P8Z77-V LK
2 - EVGA GTX 670 FTW SLI (just bought the second from Quesoblanco)
Corsair Obsidian 550D case

Here is the list of components that I have bought so far:

EK Single 5.25" Bay Reservoir w/ Dual Serial DDC 3.25 Pumps Installed (EK-BAY RES Dual DDC 3.25 Serial (incl. pump))
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper Slim Profile Single 140mm Radiator
Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm Radiator - 80mm (will be modifying the 5.25" bay to fit)
EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Full Nickel (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Full Nickel)
EK GeForce 680 GTX+ VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal + Nickel CSQ (EK-FC680 GTX+ - Acetal + Nickel CSQ)

The next items up for purchase:

EK GeForce 680 GTX+ VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal + Nickel CSQ (EK-FC680 GTX+ - Acetal + Nickel CSQ)
Bitspower compression fittings (possibly quick disconnects for at least the pump/res combo)
EK FC Bridge Dual Serial CSQ - SLI Connection - Acetal (EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial CSQ)
Possible third radiator, Alphacool NexXoS ST30 Dual 120mm radiator
Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PL-2 120mm x 25mm Ultra Quiet Fan - 1400 RPM - 20 dBA (I'd get the Noctua NF-P12 but they are just too damn ugly, no matter the performance)

Each rad is the largest of its type that will fit in the 550D. I'd prefer to limit the amount of rads in the loop to 2 but due to the size constraints (upgrading the case is not an option) I cannot fit a 360mm. This is where I need your opinions, is the third dual 120mm radiator necessary? Or should i not purchase it? Considering I have the single 140 ST30 and dual 120mm Monsta.

Lastly, in what order should the loop go? I have some ideas but would like to see what the pros suggest.

Thanks to all of you!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I cut acrylic ~1/16" (1.5mm) oversize on the table saw and then *clean the edge up on a router table.* Leaves a beautiful edge for gluing or just to have a smooth edge.


This is the important bit. If you want to use a table saw then a diamond disc is probably your best bet


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Nice, did you paint the RAM's heatspreaders?
> 
> About cutting the acrylic with table saw. I know Taps has some good saw blades for plastic. Got a 40 teeth 7-1/4" size one that cut through some acrylic for me pretty good.


Nope, just removed the Trident X sticker then cleaned it up w/ nail polish remover.

Kinda worried about the dark spot in the middle of the case, but i'm not worried enough about it to delay the project until Monday just to wait for more molex LED strips to come in.


----------



## zzorro

old school rig just tap water and noob loop only..


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Nope, just removed the Trident X sticker then cleaned it up w/ nail polish remover.












Removing logos FTW. Always makes for a substantially cleaner build IMO.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removing logos FTW. Always makes for a substantially cleaner build IMO.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Oh, wait, you said REMOVING LOGOS FTW, my bad.


----------



## skupples

that reminds me... gotta figure out where the hell to put this obscenely large triple-DDC.


----------



## jpetrach

has any one found a R9 270X full card cooler? or something that may be compatible I have a Generic block but I would like something that looks nicer?


----------



## skupples

Need some advice... Noticed this on the back of my titan during a tear down & clean up. Looks like corrosion. What do you all think?
(C220)


----------



## Pawelr98

Haven't posted in here for a while.Working with cathodes lighting is fun.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Need some advice... Noticed this on the back of my titan during a tear down & clean up. Looks like corrosion. What do you all think?
> (C220)


Ohh,, doesn't look too healthy. Even the power solders where like done on a cold solder. Or is it only on the picture?

And what is this trace under the CE mark? Just a camera thing?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Ohh,, doesn't look too healthy. Even the power solders where like done on a cold solder. Or is it only on the picture?


Probably just the picture. The only thing that looks out of place to me is the cap by the C220 reference point. The other stuff just looks funny due to how up close & how poor the lighting is. Possible copper pins w/ bleh solder.

hopefully it is just flux, but you can see some degradation on the right side of the transistor thingamajig its self.

Great thing about EVGA. They don't give a damn! If it pops they will cross ship a new one.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Probably just the picture. The only thing that looks out of place to me is the cap by the C220 reference point. The other stuff just looks funny due to how up close & how poor the lighting is. Possible copper pins w/ bleh solder.
> 
> hopefully it is just flux, but you can see some degradation on the right side of the transistor thingamajig its self.
> 
> Great thing about EVGA. They don't give a damn! If it pops they will cross ship a new one.


Looks to me like a small amount of moisture exposed to electrical current that dried out. But moisture traces can be brushed off with isopropyl alcohol..


----------



## lowfat

Looks ok to me.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> has any one found a R9 270X full card cooler? or something that may be compatible I have a Generic block but I would like something that looks nicer?


If the card is the same as a reference 7870 the ek block might work. If not you'll have to go universal. I bought some universal gpu+ram blocks in nickel/acrylic for mine. Look pretty nice too.


----------



## hokochu

I want to join this club too










megatron destroyer of worlds!


----------



## M3TAl

Looks like you've got some kinks in your tubing


----------



## Devildog83

I am ready for my loop, well almost. I need to turn the white plexi into a black mirrored finish, then I am ready. Please mister postman check and see if there is a package for me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Looks like you've got some kinks in your tubing


Definitely kinky, lol


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Looks like you've got some kinks in your tubing


Some big one indeed, the water doesn't seem to flow at all on the top one.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Looks like you've got some kinks in your tubing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Definitely kinky, lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Some big one indeed, the water doesn't seem to flow at all on the top one.


Man that's hard to look at...


----------



## hokochu

I'm pretty sure I got flow. my temps are like 34 at 4.5 ghz... and like 40 at full game. do you think I should tear down and fix it or something?


----------



## Kimir

That's still look bad, I wouldn't even but liquid before I get rid of that kind of kink!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokochu*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I got flow. my temps are like 34 at 4.5 ghz... and like 40 at full game. do you think I should tear down and fix it or something?


well, what are your ambients? hard to say if a temp is good or bad without that knowledge.

I would definitely tear down and get rid of the kinks. They kill flow and look bad.


----------



## hokochu

any suggestions on a better config for the loops then? I tried a couple of different things when I was putting it together and this one seemed to be the best...


----------



## M3TAl

You either need more tubing to reduce those kinks, angled adapters, or change loop order up.


----------



## hokochu

also ambiet is around 25 degrees celsius outside maybe a bit warmer in my room after the rig has been running for a while


----------



## hokochu

I guess I can try to add some more tubing... Is there a better order? currently its Pump>>MOSFET>>CPU>>CHIPSET>>Rad>>Graphics>>Rads>>Res


----------



## Kimir

You could do pump->CPU->rad->chipset->CPU VRM->Graphic...


----------



## hokochu

That seems pretty reasonable i guess. maybe when i have some free time on my hand in a couple of weeks I will change it up then. do you think i will get significant temp drops of like 5 degrees celsius or that this will be mostly a cosmetic repair with only small returns of like 2 or 3 degrees


----------



## M3TAl

My guess is 2-3C. In my experience kinks can worsen over time, at least that's how a tiny little kink went with this Durelene. So it could potentially reduce flow even more over time.


----------



## hokochu

That is good to know. I would hate to have a serious kink develop and lose hardware over it. thanks for the tip. It seems like it can wait a few weeks and I won't just do it this weekend though-but now it is on my to do list. Thanks for the advice guys


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokochu*
> 
> That is good to know. I would hate to have a serious kink develop and lose hardware over it. thanks for the tip. It seems like it can wait a few weeks and I won't just do it this weekend though-but now it is on my to do list. Thanks for the advice guys


I've got a trick you can try to keep the flow up in the meantime. It doesn't look great, but it's only a temporary fix until you change your routing anyway. Just put hose clamps where the kinks are to keep them from getting worse until you can fix them. Like I said, it doesn't look great, but it's just temporary anyway.


----------



## hokochu

All right I will do that in the mean time. You guys have so much experience and I appreciate your advice. This is my first build after all and I would like to make sure its done right.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokochu*
> 
> any suggestions on a better config for the loops then? I tried a couple of different things when I was putting it together and this one seemed to be the best...


you could probably get them to make those bends if you dipped them in boiling water. Just stuff the tube full of something to keep it from collapsing, dip in boiling water, make bend, win.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokochu*
> 
> any suggestions on a better config for the loops then? I tried a couple of different things when I was putting it together and this one seemed to be the best...


I used 90 degre rotary adapter with a 10 mm insert on under the connector on the chipset going to the CPU to align them up in height.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## hokochu

If I do this do you think that I will need slightly longer tubing still?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The 780 Classy under water cooling is a BEAST! This is the ONLY "regular" 780 I'd consider to be honest. Great water block too bud!


----------



## Blackops_2

Thanks Eric! I got a steal on that particular card. 510$ for the GPU/Block. Thinking about picking up another one if i can get some things sold (golf clubs) but then the loop is going to take longer to assemble, because it will set me back some. For right now i think, i will just have to add another 780 Classy down the road. But the goal by the end of the summer is two 780 classy's.

As you can see the block still has a streak or so of distilled in the block. I probably wont get my loop going for a couple of weeks. Still have loads to buy. At the moment i have four sp120s, my 360 rad, and the 780. Should i devise some way to dry the inside? I suppose i'll be cleaning and flushing all the parts before assembly so it shouldn't matter?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokochu*
> 
> I want to join this club too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> megatron destroyer of worlds!


Pardon for being a little off topic. But, are you using 2 RAM sticks on your X79 rig?

Pick another RAM kit for your rig after you're done with those kinks..


----------



## unequalteck

Corsair Obsidian 450D


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Pardon for being a little off topic. But, are you using 2 RAM sticks on your X79 rig?
> 
> Pick another RAM kit for your rig after you're done with those kinks..


I thought they were Kinks.. Glad I am not the only one that noticed them. I thought I could be losing my mind for a minute there.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> Corsair Obsidian 450D


Very Clean and pretty.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> Corsair Obsidian 450D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean.









Why is the rad tilted? I use screen cleaner for TV's monitors and phone and stuff to clean the outside of the case. It well.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> Corsair Obsidian 450D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good! I like the case too. I don't see many of them around here. Looks like a fun case to build in.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I am ready for my loop, well almost. I need to turn the white plexi into a black mirrored finish, then I am ready. Please mister postman check and see if there is a package for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice acrylic work!
I don't think unequaltech's rad is crooked but the photo taken is giving that effect.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> Nice acrylic work!
> I don't think unequaltech's rad is crooked but the photo taken is giving that effect.


Aha, cool. It's an optical illusion then. Thanks BTW.


----------



## unequalteck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Very Clean and pretty.


Thanks man
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why is the rad tilted? I use screen cleaner for TV's monitors and phone and stuff to clean the outside of the case. It well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> Looks good! I like the case too. I don't see many of them around here. Looks like a fun case to build in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/spoiler]
> Nice acrylic work!
> I don't think unequaltech's rad is crooked but the photo taken is giving that effect.


I thought no one will notice that. But yes I tilted the rad. That's ekwb XT 360, too thick until it totally blocked the 8pin. So have to tilt the rad while waiting for alphacool radiator


----------



## Pimphare

I stand corrected.


----------



## Devildog83

I went with an Alphacool XT45 360 for mine because of the same issue. I wanted to install a 60mm rad but was afraid of not enough room in the 750D.


----------



## unequalteck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I went with an Alphacool XT45 360 for mine because of the same issue. I wanted to install a 60mm rad but was afraid of not enough room in the 750D.


I'm going for alphacool too. St30 360


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> I'm going for alphacool too. St30 360


Alphacool all the way for me! 1 - dual 120mm ST30, 1 - single 140mm ST30, and 1 - dual 120 Monsta 80mm thick. Can't wait to set it up!


----------



## lowfat

Y'all should vote for MOTM. More specifically you should vote for this one.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/Completed/motm1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/Completed/motm3.jpg.html

http://www.overclock.net/t/1479648/mod-of-the-month-april-voting-now/0_20


----------



## jpetrach

NO DONT DO IT! There's not even a cable going to the GPU


----------



## hokochu

agreed. looks nice and clean I guess though


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I cut acrylic ~1/16" (1.5mm) oversize on the table saw and then clean the edge up on a router table. Leaves a beautiful edge for gluing or just to have a smooth edge.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the important bit. If you want to use a table saw then a diamond disc is probably your best bet
Click to expand...

The most important thing is not removing more than 1mm in a single pass with the router bit so it can pass smoothly without melting. Also, you need a pretty decent router table, not one of those cheap table-top plastic things, or you'll never get a good result with it.

I've never tried a diamond disc. Hmmm

Other tips for cutting acrylic on a tablesaw &/or router table, most of which I learned the hard way:

Always leave the protective film on. Besides helping to keep it from getting scratched it adds a lubricant/coolant effect to help keep the cutting temp down.

I cut acrylic on a tablesaw with an 80 tooth blade made for cutting plastics/plexi, but in the past I've used whatever the highest tooth-count new/sharp blade I had handy turned backwards in the tablesaw and that works surprisingly well also. I've even used a ripping blade backwards without too bad results. Cutting with the blade backwards is pretty effective at eliminating the chipping.

It is imperative that you use the fence! If you're using a cheaper saw / cheap fence make sure it doesn't have a gap at the bottom large enough the sheet can possibly slide under it. If so you can clamp a board to the fence that can sit down tight on the table and cut up against that.

If cutting a large piece make sure you have an infeed/outfeed setup to keep the sheet laying flat throughout the cut. You can lift the feed-side up a little to curve the sheet a bit to keep downward pressure on the blade as you start the cut, but you do not want it trying to warp off the back edge. If you've ever cut any large thin sheet material on a table saw / router table you already know all this.

It also really helps to have a featherboard set up lightly just enough pressure to keep it from pushing the plexi up off of the saw blade.


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> meow


Any one know what CASE this is?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> NO DONT DO IT! There's not even a cable going to the GPU


It has no GPU. It is a server. It wont even have a keyboard, mouse, or monitor hooked up. The card there is a Revodrive 3 which is for one of the virtual machines boot drives.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> Any one know what CASE this is?


Lian Li PC-A7110.


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It has no GPU. It is a server. It wont even have a keyboard, mouse, or monitor hooked up. The card there is a Revodrive 3 which is for one of the virtual machines boot drives.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lian Li PC-V7110.


Thans for the info, but searching for said case results in nothing.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> Thans for the info, but searching for said case results in nothing.


Because I spelled it wrong.







It is actually a PC-A7110.


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Because I spelled it wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is actually a PC-A7110.


HAHA thanks man. Good luck to you.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I cut acrylic ~1/16" (1.5mm) oversize on the table saw and then clean the edge up on a router table. Leaves a beautiful edge for gluing or just to have a smooth edge.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the important bit. If you want to use a table saw then a diamond disc is probably your best bet
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The most important thing is not removing more than 1mm in a single pass with the router bit so it can pass smoothly without melting. Also, you need a pretty decent router table, not one of those cheap table-top plastic things, or you'll never get a good result with it.
> 
> I've never tried a diamond disc. Hmmm
> 
> Other tips for cutting acrylic on a tablesaw &/or router table, most of which I learned the hard way:
> 
> Always leave the protective film on. Besides helping to keep it from getting scratched it adds a lubricant/coolant effect to help keep the cutting temp down.
> 
> I cut acrylic on a tablesaw with an 80 tooth blade made for cutting plastics/plexi, but in the past I've used whatever the highest tooth-count new/sharp blade I had handy turned backwards in the tablesaw and that works surprisingly well also. I've even used a ripping blade backwards without too bad results. Cutting with the blade backwards is pretty effective at eliminating the chipping.
> 
> It is imperative that you use the fence! If you're using a cheaper saw / cheap fence make sure it doesn't have a gap at the bottom large enough the sheet can possibly slide under it. If so you can clamp a board to the fence that can sit down tight on the table and cut up against that.
> 
> If cutting a large piece make sure you have an infeed/outfeed setup to keep the sheet laying flat throughout the cut. You can lift the feed-side up a little to curve the sheet a bit to keep downward pressure on the blade as you start the cut, but you do not want it trying to warp off the back edge. If you've ever cut any large thin sheet material on a table saw / router table you already know all this.
> 
> It also really helps to have a featherboard set up lightly just enough pressure to keep it from pushing the plexi up off of the saw blade.
Click to expand...

Also,for the router table,2 flute mill bits work very well,they pull the swarf away from the cut face.

Abrasive cutting works very well for brittle materials,CF and metals

In other news..I/O Shield is done.


----------



## cyphon

with the sp120's do you guys like the quiet edition or the performance edition and way undervolt? Going on SR1 rads and trying for super quiet.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> with the sp120's do you guys like the quiet edition or the performance edition and way undervolt? Going on SR1 rads and trying for super quiet.


I prefer the performance edition for those hot summer days,for the cooler months you can always turn them down or use the included voltage adapters....


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> with the sp120's do you guys like the quiet edition or the performance edition and way undervolt? Going on SR1 rads and trying for super quiet.


Neither. Pick up some AP-14s (which should be available still) or AP-15s and put them on 5V adapters.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> with the sp120's do you guys like the quiet edition or the performance edition and way undervolt? Going on SR1 rads and trying for super quiet.


Either do downvolted AP-14's or some NoiseBlocker eLoop B12-2's. You'll be able to run them at 7 or 12V for the summer, and 5V for the winter if you chose so. Either the NoiseBlocker white or the Phobya/NB black versions of the fans paired to a control board like a Bitspower X-Station plus some ModMyToys splitter PCB's and you're good to go









-Zepp


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I prefer the performance edition for those hot summer days,for the cooler months you can always turn them down or use the included voltage adapters....


I will have a fan controller, so under volting is no big deal. I was thinking the performance edition may be the better play, that way I have the extra head room if I need

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Neither. Pick up some AP-14s (which should be available still) or AP-15s and put them on 5V adapters.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Either do downvolted AP-14's or some NoiseBlocker eLoop B12-2's. You'll be able to run them at 7 or 12V for the summer, and 5V for the winter if you chose so. Either the NoiseBlocker white or the Phobya/NB black versions of the fans paired to a control board like a Bitspower X-Station plus some ModMyToys splitter PCB's and you're good to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


I hate having to paint fans though and the AP-14/AP-15 colors will not work on their own. The SP120 can easily match with the rings, hence why I was leaning towards these.

I might be one of the only ones, but I am not a fan of the e-loops. The blades look and feel extremely cheap to me.

Thanks all for the input


----------



## Devildog83

Just realized that I have 2 x SP 120 Performance PWM's and 2 x SP 120 quiet's and a 360mm rad coming. I need to get 1 more of either but until then what do I do, 2 x perf and 1 x quiet or 2 x quiet and 1 x perf.


----------



## sinnedone

SP120's are good and quiet at lower rpms. There's a lot of hate on them but there pretty good and comparable to the ap's everyone recommends. Where the AP's really shine is that they are quitter at higher rpms and have a smoother sound compared to the sp120s which have a more aggressive air sound. I'm getting rid of 2 sets of pwm ones but only because I wanted some led bling, not because of their performance.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I will have a fan controller, so under volting is no big deal. I was thinking the performance edition may be the better play, that way I have the extra head room if I need
> 
> I hate having to paint fans though and the AP-14/AP-15 colors will not work on their own. The SP120 can easily match with the rings, hence why I was leaning towards these.
> 
> I might be one of the only ones, but I am not a fan of the e-loops. The blades look and feel extremely cheap to me.
> 
> Thanks all for the input


Lovin my eloops man. I have the B12-3 models and run them on the lowest setting. Sli gtx 760s top out 40 C during benching and gaming with my setup. 3570k with 1ghz overclock stays in th 40-50 C range.

I believe the white eloops would be a nice accent to 'The Madhouse' if you don't completely cross them off of your list of options.


----------



## skupples

Any suggestions? Too tight to use the stiff arsed LRT tubing.

(using my nasty fittings in the nether regions where only god knows)


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions? Too tight to use the stiff arsed LRT tubing.
> 
> (using my nasty fittings in the nether regions where only god knows)


Use one of the bottom ports maybe? The one with the cap off along with an angled rotary fitting. Or you could buy a foot of cheap tubing from the hardware store lol. Not sure what kind of plasticizer effect you'd get from a piece that small.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> (using my nasty fittings in the nether regions where only god knows)


lol nothing wrong with that.


----------



## hokochu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions? Too tight to use the stiff arsed LRT tubing.
> 
> (using my nasty fittings in the nether regions where only god knows)


Could you try going from the bottom of the vertical rad to the bottom of the horizontal rad?


----------



## Shadowline2553

Have you guys had any luck getting a push/pull set-up to work in the top of a Cosmos II?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Lovin my eloops man. I have the B12-3 models and run them on the lowest setting. Sli gtx 760s top out 40 C during benching and gaming with my setup. 3570k with 1ghz overclock stays in th 40-50 C range.
> 
> I believe the white eloops would be a nice accent to 'The Madhouse' if you don't completely cross them off of your list of options.


Well, I got several different fans to play with and the B12-2 was one of them. I really do not like them, as I previously stated. I know people love them, but I am not a fan of how they look or feel. Noise wise it is fine and performance I haven't tested enough with, but I know a lot of people love them. I also got the NB M12-2s which I liked much more than the B12-2s... I have used AP-15s in the past and they are good, but I would probably have to paint those. Painting is difficult living in a condo on the lake where I have to paint with 20+ mph wind near peoples cars.... The sp120s I could just pop in the red ring and probably be good to go. I also liked them a lot more than the B12s and similar to the M12s, which is why I was leaning towards those.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well, I got several different fans to play with and the B12-2 was one of them. I really do not like them, as I previously stated. I know people love them, but I am not a fan of how they look or feel. Noise wise it is fine and performance I haven't tested enough with, but I know a lot of people love them. I also got the NB M12-2s which I liked much more than the B12-2s... I have used AP-15s in the past and they are good, but I would probably have to paint those. Painting is difficult living in a condo on the lake where I have to paint with 20+ mph wind near peoples cars.... The sp120s I could just pop in the red ring and probably be good to go. I also liked them a lot more than the B12s and similar to the M12s, which is why I was leaning towards those.


The sp120s are a great choice. I was originally going to get some of them but went with the pricey eloops instead. Also, they don't call it 'The Windy City' for nothing!


----------



## skupples

Thanks for the tips. I tried using standard tubing, but its just too damned stiff, though I didn't try hitting it w/ the heat gun, that may have helped. The bottom port was almost as big of a PITA, & I was hoping to reserve it for the bottom drain... I ended up just taking the money wrench to the already stripped fitting, its in there for gooooood.

Also, pulled one of the never removed end caps out of my oldest 480... Gross... The thing was damn near fused into the threads, and the O-ring has basically melted. I'm definitely going to need to do multiple full system flushes before I fill her up w/ the Mayhems. (even though iv'e flushed each piece individually)


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Looks like its working fine to me...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looks like its working fine to me...


=\ yeah, it had to do. A bit of pressure on the piping but it should be fine. Now I just need to figure out where to put this triple-DDC so that I can show off its obsceneness.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well, I got several different fans to play with and the B12-2 was one of them. I really do not like them, as I previously stated. I know people love them, but I am not a fan of how they look or feel. Noise wise it is fine and performance I haven't tested enough with, but I know a lot of people love them. I also got the NB M12-2s which I liked much more than the B12-2s... I have used AP-15s in the past and they are good, but I would probably have to paint those. Painting is difficult living in a condo on the lake where I have to paint with 20+ mph wind near peoples cars.... The sp120s I could just pop in the red ring and probably be good to go. I also liked them a lot more than the B12s and similar to the M12s, which is why I was leaning towards those.


Give the BlackSilentPro series from NoiseBlocker a go? I love them, but I'd like to match all the fans in my motherboard chamber to the eLoops I've got.

-Zepp


----------



## D33G33

Hi all!

I thought I might share my ghetto waterblock mods for a silent HTPC build im currently working on









So this is how I ended up fitting my XSPC block to my EVGA GTX750Ti FTW...

Block and card


Filed down M3 nuts to a taper to match the original waterblock screws. I cut heads off 30mm M3 button heads for the threaded rod.


Used a motherboard stand-off to help tighten the M3 thread into the block.


All 4 in place


And fitted! used the tensioning springs that came in the XSPC kit. I did have to drill out the holes ever so slightly to get the rod through the PCB from 3.0mm to 3.5mm


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The Noiseblocker BlackSilentPros are the fans I'm currently using in Night Fury (4 PK-3's on my 560mm rad and 2 PL-2's on my 240mm) and they are fantastic fans, if a little pricey. They do come with some nice additional features though like rubber mounting gasket, mounting screws and two different length fully sleeved cables (the fan itself has a very short connector and you can choose the length of sleeved cable you want depending on your application). Very high end stuff...


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The Noiseblocker BlackSilentPros are the fans I'm currently using in Night Fury (4 PK-3's on my 560mm rad and 2 PL-2's on my 240mm) and they are fantastic fans, if a little pricey. They do come with some nice additional features though like rubber mounting gasket, mounting screws and two different length fully sleeved cables (the fan itself has a very short connector and you can choose the length of sleeved cable you want depending on your application). Very high end stuff.


Yeah I'm a big fan of them too. The rubber gasket and mounting mechanism is really nice, they're a pleasure to unpackage for the first time and see all the goodies. I got three 80mm versions for my new build and I was shocked to see they still came with all the same goodies, I figured an 80x15 fan would be pretty bare bones (although $17.99 a piece, yikes!). Worth the money


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Have you guys had any luck getting a push/pull set-up to work in the top of a Cosmos II?


There's not really enough room in the top of a Cosmos 2 for push-pull.

There's 47mm from the top of the mobo to the top panel inside the case, and on top of that panel there's room to mount 25mm thick fans under the top filter cover. The fan/rad mount locations in the top panel have barely any offset from the mobo - something like 15mm - so there's not much hope for overhanging the mobo even a little bit unless your board has nothing along the top. Good luck with that.

That 47mm will let you put up to a 45mm thick 360 rad up there (depending on your mobo it might be a little tricky routing your CPU cable(s) past the rad though) with fans on top of that in push or pull only. I suppose you could get away with a 30mm rad up top with slim ~15mm fans below it, but it would be for looks only basically seeing as any fan that thin is going to be essentially useless on a rad.

There's room for a 240 or 280 rad of any thickness in push-pull in the bottom of the case if you ditch the HDD cages down there (the case comes with brackets to make mounting a 240 down there easy enough), and/or there's room for a 120/140 rad of any thickness in the front of the case if you remove the HDD slots there.

I bought my Cosmos 2 with plans to put a loop in it, but decided it just wasn't worth it. There are soooo many MUCH better cases for watercooling. I opted instead to keep it on air and put it in the family room for use mainly as a 24/7 htpc/media server & occasionally they'll play a game on it.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There's not really enough room in the top of a Cosmos 2 for push-pull.
> 
> There's 47mm from the top of the mobo to the top panel inside the case, and on top of that panel there's room to mount 25mm thick fans under the top filter cover. The fan/rad mount locations in the top panel have barely any offset from the mobo - something like 15mm - so there's not much hope for overhanging the mobo even a little bit unless your board has nothing along the top. Good luck with that.
> 
> That 47mm will let you put up to a 45mm thick 360 rad up there (depending on your mobo it might be a little tricky routing your CPU cable(s) past the rad though) with fans on top of that in push or pull only. I suppose you could get away with a 30mm rad up top with slim ~15mm fans below it, but it would be for looks only basically seeing as any fan that thin is going to be essentially useless on a rad.
> 
> There's room for a 240 or 280 rad of any thickness in push-pull in the bottom of the case if you ditch the HDD cages down there (the case comes with brackets to make mounting a 240 down there easy enough), and/or there's room for a 120/140 rad of any thickness in the front of the case if you remove the HDD slots there.
> 
> I bought my Cosmos 2 with plans to put a loop in it, but decided it just wasn't worth it. There are soooo many MUCH better cases for watercooling. I opted instead to keep it on air and put it in the family room for use mainly as a 24/7 htpc/media server & occasionally they'll play a game on it.


I have my build currently in a Corsair 600t, which is even less ideal for WC, my rad doesn't fit in the case, or under the top panel, and I want a clean, neat looking build. I am also looking at the MNPC clear side panel cause I love having a window.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I thought I might share my ghetto waterblock mods for a silent HTPC build im currently working on


That is fantastic. So, the question is, how much will you charge if I send you a block? LOL.

I may try this with my EK block, that I have spare right now.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> That is fantastic. So, the question is, how much will you charge if I send you a block? LOL.
> 
> I may try this with my EK block, that I have spare right now.


Postage, id do it for funzies


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Postage, id do it for funzies


Wow, that is a better quote than I was expecting, lol. I may have to send you some goodies. Let me see what I can figure out while I am replacing my motherboard in a few days.

The part that wins me over for the XSPC block, is that it has the inlet/outlet on the edge instead of on the top...

No go on the EK block... The securing screws are too far apart, by a good bit. This is the AMD mount compared to the 750ti core screws.



It's kind of close, but it would ruin the block or the car trying to make them. Not worth it.

So... What XSPC block is that?


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've worked with acrylic quite a bit over a lot of years and it's taught me a number of valuable lessons to remember.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If you're making parts to bond together to fabricate something, all your cuts need to be straight and free of tool / machining marks and sanded to at least the smoothness you get from a well used 120 grit belt.
> 
> You can use a table saw, as long as you have a new carbide blade with as many teeth as you can get for that diameter.
> 
> Once you use that new blade for acrylic, do not ever use it for cutting anything else. Keep a dedicated blade for cutting acrylic.
> 
> Set the blade height so that it's just slightly above the piece to be cut . . . . this gives the least chipping
> 
> If you use a table saw, you'll need to have a bench belt sander to get the cut edge surface finish to where it's smooth and flat enough for bonding.
> 
> Professional fabricators have wet bench belt sanders that give exceptional results, but for personal use, a bench belt sander from Sears or Home Depot is adequate.
> 
> If you're parts are small enough, you can use the 4" wide, el-cheapo models, but if you have parts more than ~12" long, you'll have much better results with the 6" wide models.
> 
> Always make sure your parts fit together perfectly before bonding, using clamps to overcome irregularities will eventually result in disaster.
> 
> The type of acrylic is also a major player.
> 
> When you get acrylic sheet from a supplier, it's almost always cast acrylic.
> 
> This is what you want to make things with. . . .
> 
> It cuts, sand, machines, and bonds well.
> 
> Its melting temp is high enough that normal fabrication operations don't cause localized melting.
> 
> There is also a type of extruded acrylic, often offered as a replacement for glass panes in doors, that positively sucks if you try to cut / machine it.
> 
> Not sure if it's supposed to be more impact resistant than cast, or just cheaper, but it super sucks to work with in the shop.
> 
> Extruded melts at much lower temps than cast, and as you cut it, the chips melt and fuse together as a blob jamming the blade and creating all kinds of problems.
> 
> Sometimes things you buy that are made of acrylic are made of extrusions, so trying to cut or modify them becomes a nightmare.
> 
> Here's a couple pics . . . the first is regular cast sheet being cut on a table saw, the second is what you have to deal with cutting the other crap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck on your custom res,
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the info







It will definitely help lots of people planning to build their own rectangle res.







+Rep I'm planning to have a cylinder shape one. Any ideals?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> SP120's are good and quiet at lower rpms. There's a lot of hate on them but there pretty good and comparable to the ap's everyone recommends. Where the AP's really shine is that they are quitter at higher rpms and have a smoother sound compared to the sp120s which have a more aggressive air sound. I'm getting rid of 2 sets of pwm ones but only because I wanted some led bling, not because of their performance.


I guess I will just get 1 more performance and run 3 because they would run at very low RPM most of the time. I have a lot of extra fans but I am starting a build for my son who is a DJ and and produces music.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Wow, that is a better quote than I was expecting, lol. I may have to send you some goodies. Let me see what I can figure out while I am replacing my motherboard in a few days.
> 
> The part that wins me over for the XSPC block, is that it has the inlet/outlet on the edge instead of on the top...
> 
> No go on the EK block... The securing screws are too far apart, by a good bit. This is the AMD mount compared to the 750ti core screws.
> 
> 
> 
> It's kind of close, but it would ruin the block or the car trying to make them. Not worth it.
> 
> So... What XSPC block is that?


I used the mounting hard ware from my corsair h100 scrap and 2 pieces of cut acrylic so now it covers both the back and front of the card. ill post pictures and how I did mine. at work now


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I used the mounting hard ware from my corsair h100 scrap and 2 pieces of cut acrylic so now it covers both the back and front of the card. ill post pictures and how I did mine. at work now


Awesome, can't wait!


----------



## skupples

Anyone have any recommendations on a hone made system shocker? Diluted vinegar then soda?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations on a hone made system shocker? Diluted vinegar then soda?


pretty much







Can use lemon juice instead of vinegar if you'd like, I've heard that works better.

Also, relatively soon,PPCs will have Mayhems Blitz kits that are a two stage system cleaner and pH neutralizer


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Is there a certain ratio you use for vinegar/ lemon juice and water


----------



## skupples

Eh.. Thanks... PPC has gotten enough of my money this month. I need to stop being lazy and order some 2/3/4 pin bulk molex headers and some rolls of awg17 and the like.

BTW elivated PH won't affect acrylic will it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations on a hone made system shocker? Diluted vinegar then soda?


After all the advice not to use acids.....

What exactly are you trying to clean?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've worked with acrylic quite a bit over a lot of years and it's taught me a number of valuable lessons to remember.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If you're making parts to bond together to fabricate something, all your cuts need to be straight and free of tool / machining marks and sanded to at least the smoothness you get from a well used 120 grit belt.
> 
> You can use a table saw, as long as you have a new carbide blade with as many teeth as you can get for that diameter.
> 
> Once you use that new blade for acrylic, do not ever use it for cutting anything else. Keep a dedicated blade for cutting acrylic.
> 
> Set the blade height so that it's just slightly above the piece to be cut . . . . this gives the least chipping
> 
> If you use a table saw, you'll need to have a bench belt sander to get the cut edge surface finish to where it's smooth and flat enough for bonding.
> 
> Professional fabricators have wet bench belt sanders that give exceptional results, but for personal use, a bench belt sander from Sears or Home Depot is adequate.
> 
> If you're parts are small enough, you can use the 4" wide, el-cheapo models, but if you have parts more than ~12" long, you'll have much better results with the 6" wide models.
> 
> Always make sure your parts fit together perfectly before bonding, using clamps to overcome irregularities will eventually result in disaster.
> 
> The type of acrylic is also a major player.
> 
> When you get acrylic sheet from a supplier, it's almost always cast acrylic.
> 
> This is what you want to make things with. . . .
> 
> It cuts, sand, machines, and bonds well.
> 
> Its melting temp is high enough that normal fabrication operations don't cause localized melting.
> 
> There is also a type of extruded acrylic, often offered as a replacement for glass panes in doors, that positively sucks if you try to cut / machine it.
> 
> Not sure if it's supposed to be more impact resistant than cast, or just cheaper, but it super sucks to work with in the shop.
> 
> Extruded melts at much lower temps than cast, and as you cut it, the chips melt and fuse together as a blob jamming the blade and creating all kinds of problems.
> 
> Sometimes things you buy that are made of acrylic are made of extrusions, so trying to cut or modify them becomes a nightmare.
> 
> Here's a couple pics . . . the first is regular cast sheet being cut on a table saw, the second is what you have to deal with cutting the other crap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck on your custom res,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will definitely help lots of people planning to build their own rectangle res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep I'm planning to have a cylinder shape one. Any ideals?
Click to expand...

Not sure how long a piece of tube you have to start from, but if it's considerably longer than you need for your res, use a handsaw to get it within an inch or so, and then you can jig a table saw, 90* to the fence to cut just thru the wall thickness and rotate the tube against the jig to feed into the blade.

You could use the mitre gage if you can lock it in place.

I prefer to set everything solidly in place, and then raise the blade just enough, and then rotate the tube.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> After all the advice not to use acids.....
> 
> What exactly are you trying to clean?


One of my rads is really starting to show its age. Bleeder cap was damn near fused in, and the o-ring had pretty much dissolved.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure how long a piece of tube you have to start from, but if it's considerably longer than you need for your res, use a handsaw to get it within an inch or so, and then you can jig a table saw, 90* to the fence to cut just thru the wall thickness and rotate the tube against the jig to feed into the blade.
> 
> You could use the mitre gage if you can lock it in place.
> 
> I prefer to set everything solidly in place, and then raise the blade just enough, and then rotate the tube.
> 
> Darlene


Sadly for me I don't have any equipment. I also don't know where I can find a 6" wide transparent tube.


----------



## Kurry

Got another card, just for the sake of good looking


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Got another card, just for the sake of good looking


That is beautiful! Did you make those backplates?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Got another card, just for the sake of good looking


That looks awesome! Quick question though, will the sli bridge fit with the backplates all the way to the edge like that?


----------



## JLMS2010

Does anybody know if *this* block will work with the EK back plate on the 780? It looks like a tight fit. I would think it would, but wanted to double check. I will be using *these* fittings. Thanks.


----------



## Roikyou

I was going to ask the difference between the Scythe ap-14 and XSPC 2000 fans (since someone mentioned ap-14's on sale). Here's the one's I'm using.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15564/fan-977/XSPC_120mm_x_25mm_Radiator_Chassis_Fan_-_2000_RPM.html

always curious about the ap fans, but after looking at the numbers, doesn't look like spending 165 to swap out 11 fans would be worth it in my opinion

ap-14 1450 rpm 85 m3/h 50 cfm 21 dba
xspc 2000 rpm 124 m2/h 73 cfm 35 dba


----------



## gdubc

Unfortunately you can't really go by the numbers on fans. Most box specs are ludicrous. The scythe fans have built a reputation as some of the best rad fans out there. Haven't ever heard anything at all about those xspc fans tho...


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Unfortunately you can't really go by the numbers on fans. Most box specs are ludicrous. The scythe fans have built a reputation as some of the best rad fans out there. Haven't ever heard anything at all about those xspc fans tho...


Honestly, I set my Aquaero for 800 to I think 1300 or 1400 rpm, so I don't get too much noise, but the system runs so cool and quiet, the fans stick between 800 and 900 most of the time. Idle water temp stays ambient temp and under load, water raises a few centigrade above. I'm always messing with it and trying to improve but it runs flawlessly. I've seen at boot, depending on room temp, 20 c and under load 25 c for inline water temps.

Another kind of off topic question, anyone ever check to see how much liquid the Alphacool UT60 holds? Been flushing the system but have yet to completely remove bottom radiator to drain this radiator and eventually want to change coolants, of course would like to not remove the radiator.


----------



## Kurry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That is beautiful! Did you make those backplates?


Yes







Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> That looks awesome! Quick question though, will the sli bridge fit with the backplates all the way to the edge like that?


Yea, easily! Ill upload some pics of the whole system.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure how long a piece of tube you have to start from, but if it's considerably longer than you need for your res, use a handsaw to get it within an inch or so, and then you can jig a table saw, 90* to the fence to cut just thru the wall thickness and rotate the tube against the jig to feed into the blade.
> 
> You could use the mitre gage if you can lock it in place.
> 
> I prefer to set everything solidly in place, and then raise the blade just enough, and then rotate the tube.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly for me I don't have any equipment. I also don't know where I can find a 6" wide transparent tube.
Click to expand...

McMaster Carr is your friend . . . www.mcmaster.com

Here's all the clear acrylic tubing . . . most sizes available in lengths as short as 1 foot:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-hollow-rods/=rqkzfd

If you want 6" diameter, I'd go with the 1/4" wall so you have a nice wide bonding surface.

p/n 8486K935

Have a machine shop cut it to length and true it in a lathe.

Working with larger tubing isn't too hard if you have a grasp of the basics, plan well, and have patience.

Here's an all acrylic heat exchanger model I made some years ago, 6" tube, still works fine.



Darlene


----------



## paulyoung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> NO DONT DO IT! There's not even a cable going to the GPU


It hasn't got a gpu has it ? There is something plugged in but it's not a gpu.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> NO DONT DO IT! There's not even a cable going to the GPU
> 
> 
> 
> It hasn't got a gpu has it ? There is something plugged in but it's not a gpu.
Click to expand...

Lowfat already explained:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It has no GPU. It is a server. It wont even have a keyboard, mouse, or monitor hooked up. The card there is a Revodrive 3 which is for one of the virtual machines boot drives.


----------



## paulyoung

That'll teach me for reading the post backwards again.


----------



## Jakewat

EDIT:







moment here, fixed my issue.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

The rig with a bit of light in it....


----------



## sinnedone

Looking good


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> The rig with a bit of light in it....


Seeing your rig makes me glad I am getting the 750d. It looks really nice.


----------



## Blackops_2

I kind of wish i would've looked at the 750D rather than going with the classic 800D i'll have to do some modding to get that 240mm rad in there. I guess that's not a big deal to most. But i've never used a dremel, drill, or anything of that nature. Closest i get to that type of activity is reloading ammo: prepping brass.

Also question, Bitspower summit EF POM or Acrylic?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quick question: I have 2 - 670 FTWs in SLI that I will be cooling with these bad boys EK GeForce 680 GTX+ VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal + Nickel CSQ. Should I buy the EK FC Bridge Dual Serial CSQ - SLI Connection - Acetal? Or go with Bitspower SLI connector links? In other words, what's purdier?


----------



## Blackops_2

Bitspower links are more appealing to me.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Bitspower links are more appealing to me.


I have to agree. I think I'll go that route. I almost pulled the trigger on the EK but then I saw those links. BTW, Ron Swanson is one of the greatest TV characters of all time.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Seeing your rig makes me glad I am getting the 750d. It looks really nice.


It's a great case....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I kind of wish i would've looked at the 750D rather than going with the classic 800D i'll have to do some modding to get that 240mm rad in there. I guess that's not a big deal to most. But i've never used a dremel, drill, or anything of that nature. Closest i get to that type of activity is reloading ammo: prepping brass.
> 
> Also question, Bitspower summit EF POM or Acrylic?


Til this day i love the 800D,just which it had more space to stick another rad without modding....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Bitspower links are more appealing to me.


^^^^^^ This....


----------



## Devildog83

I agree with the 750D comments. The pictures don't even do it justice, it looks so incredible in person.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I kind of wish i would've looked at the 750D rather than going with the classic 800D i'll have to do some modding to get that 240mm rad in there. I guess that's not a big deal to most. But i've never used a dremel, drill, or anything of that nature. Closest i get to that type of activity is reloading ammo: prepping brass.
> 
> Also question, Bitspower summit EF POM or Acrylic?


If you are power tool inept try using a good nibbler (i.e. Bessey). I have done almost all the modding in my Lian Li with it, a drill, and a bunch of files.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I have to agree. I think I'll go that route. I almost pulled the trigger on the EK but then I saw those links. BTW, Ron Swanson is one of the greatest TV characters of all time.


I thoroughly agree! He's the man.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> It's a great case....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Til this day i love the 800D,just which it had more space to stick another rad without modding....
> ^^^^^^ This....


There is a reason i have it still. I have a soft spot for it. And it's a case i've always wanted. Might have gotten the last one newegg had lol, interestingly it was still 270$...That said









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you are power tool inept try using a good nibbler (i.e. Bessey). I have done almost all the modding in my Lian Li with it, a drill, and a bunch of files.


That's an excellent idea, i need to familiarize myself with power tools honestly.


----------



## Pendaz

Hi guys, heres an update on my build:

re-did my water loop and added some colour/UV, heres the results:



So the rad has been moved outside the case, and i've added 2 extra AF120's I've shortened the hose by about 4" between the rad and the block. Also removed a panel below the drive bays in preperation for construction of an enclosure at the bottom of the case to contain my HDD's/extra wires etc

There will be a photon res sat on top of said enclosure (thats my next step)

Heres some more pics (apologies for the low quality, my phone (SGS3) for some reason has developed this grainy effect on the pictures i take and i can't work out how to get rid of it?)


----------



## Kurry

Updated








Cheers!


----------



## JLMS2010

Nice build


----------



## CrSt3r

Very beautiful setup !


----------



## Jakewat

Dat silver heatkiller epicness!

Although it looks clean barbs still scare me like that lol


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Updated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great job!


----------



## CrSt3r

Yes ... i would be afraid to flood my build too just using barbs ^^


----------



## therion17




----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> McMaster Carr is your friend . . . www.mcmaster.com
> 
> Here's all the clear acrylic tubing . . . most sizes available in lengths as short as 1 foot:
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-hollow-rods/=rqkzfd
> 
> If you want 6" diameter, I'd go with the 1/4" wall so you have a nice wide bonding surface.
> 
> p/n 8486K935
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Have a machine shop cut it to length and true it in a lathe.
> 
> Working with larger tubing isn't too hard if you have a grasp of the basics, plan well, and have patience.
> 
> Here's an all acrylic heat exchanger model I made some years ago, 6" tube, still works fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the info, was able to find a local company that does the same type of tubes. I may call them to see if I can get what I need.


----------



## iBored

WOW! Every part just matches perfectly!
And you don't see any bits of red from the formula board!
And that backplate








Is that an actual piece of mirror? or polish aluminum?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Updated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> Yes ... i would be afraid to flood my build too just using barbs ^^


Barbs on my rig here! I even use the short stubby barbs! Work flawlessly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> Yes ... i would be afraid to flood my build too just using barbs ^^
> 
> 
> 
> Barbs on my rig here! I even use the short stubby barbs! Work flawlessly.
Click to expand...

While barbs are all good,the stubbies are not. You are a brave man to run stubbies clampless.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> While barbs are all good,the stubbies are not. You are a brave man to run stubbies clampless.


It's funny you said that. When I had leaks upon first building the loop, it was all but the stubbies that leaked. I plan to go compression in mid May.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Updated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a beautiful build. Everything matches perfectly... Great Job!


----------



## Devildog83

*Kurry*, that is so sweet!! I am not much for the look of flexible tubing but that's as good as it get's.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> While barbs are all good,the stubbies are not. You are a brave man to run stubbies clampless.


Yup. Did clampless barbs for most of my watercooling life, but no way would i use stubbies.

@Kurry very nicely done.


----------



## Solonowarion

Gorgeous. Builds like this make me want to go back to tubing.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Gorgeous. Builds like this make me want to go back to tubing.


Blasphemy!!!


----------



## Devildog83

I just got a call from Fed-Ex and my parts will be here within the hour.


----------



## skupples

FedEx calls people? Sweet.


----------



## VSG

They do when they need entry to my condo complex. Other than that, they don't bother.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> FedEx calls people? Sweet.


They called me because it was due yesterday and was supposed to be held for pick-up, I only live a few blocks away, but it came in 1 day early and she let it out on a truck and called to make sure I was going to be available when the truck shows. I think he is here.


----------



## lowfat

So close to powder coating I can taste it. 99% of the prep work is done. I need to drill one or two holes and file down 1 or 2 panels. Then powercoating time. It only took me two years to get to this point.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-2-17.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-4.jpg.html


----------



## Devildog83

Very nice lowfat.


----------



## d00bzilla

Ya I wish I powder coated. I figured it would be much cheaper to just paint but between the mounting cost of the paint and the hours of labor involved I should have paid a $150 to have my case powder coated.

Good choice sir. What color are you getting it coated in?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Ya I wish I powder coated. I figured it would be much cheaper to just paint but between the mounting cost of the paint and the hours of labor involved I should have paid a $150 to have my case powder coated.
> 
> Good choice sir. What color are you getting it coated in?


I wouldn't want anything less than a professional paint job, which I know would cost a lot more than powder coating as it requires a lot more prep.

I will likely go with flat black or a flat black wrinkle. Although if they have a very dark flat grey I will do that. I hate glossy interiors (as they photograph poorly) so my choices become a lot more limited.


----------



## d00bzilla

The wrinkle would be cool. Something that says "this didn't come out of a box" ya know?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wouldn't want anything less than a professional paint job, which I know would cost a lot more than powder coating as it requires a lot more prep.
> 
> I will likely go with flat black or a flat black wrinkle. Although if they have a very dark flat grey I will do that. I hate glossy interiors (as they photograph poorly) so my choices become a lot more limited.


Considering how long it's taking you to complete that build, I think wrinkle would be fitting


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Considering how long it's taking you to complete that build, I think wrinkle would be fitting


----------



## lowfat

Just remember that it was the tortoise that won the race.


----------



## morencyam

lol I'm just pulling your chain, low. I'm not doing much better. My current rebuild is getting close to a year now


----------



## PCModderMike

two years, wow lowfat.....love your work though. You should be proud.

Just what I've thrown together lately. Almost time to fill 'er up.


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> That's a beautiful build. Everything matches perfectly... Great Job!


One thing I would change there, put something under the radiator, so it fills bottom compartment perfectly. Now there is a gap above it.


----------



## Boweezie

Just couple of pics of my finished build












Full build log here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1374400/completed-red-velvet-800d-build-log-organized-with-spoilers/0_100


----------



## sinnedone

Very nice Boweezie


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Just couple of pics of my finished build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full build log here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1374400/completed-red-velvet-800d-build-log-organized-with-spoilers/0_100


Not my style, but I can appreciate all the custom work. Good job.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Just couple of pics of my finished build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full build log here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1374400/completed-red-velvet-800d-build-log-organized-with-spoilers/0_100










Very nice


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just remember that it was the tortoise that won the race.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> lol I'm just pulling your chain, low. I'm not doing much better. My current rebuild is getting close to a year now


Checking in, a year in progress. Took me almost $5,000 and a lot of mowings to get this far, remember I'm a 17 year old kid









Still lowfat, that's amazing. I've checked in on your log ever few days and it's stellar!

-Zepp


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therion17*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Just couple of pics of my finished build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full build log here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1374400/completed-red-velvet-800d-build-log-organized-with-spoilers/0_100


These beauties are just plain art, love the color matching. OCN has some talent


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Checking in, a year in progress. Took me almost $5,000 and a lot of mowings to get this far, remember I'm a 17 year old kid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still lowfat, that's amazing. I've checked in on your log ever few days and it's stellar!
> 
> -Zepp


Thanks.

When i was 17 i was rocking a 166MHz HP that i bought when i was 15. Spent months painting sheds and fertilizer puns to afford it.









A $5000 pc at 17 is rather impressive.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:
Originally Posted by *lowfat* 

Quote:
Originally Posted by *d00bzilla* 

Ya I wish I powder coated. I figured it would be much cheaper to just paint but between the mounting cost of the paint and the hours of labor involved I should have paid a $150 to have my case powder coated.

Good choice sir. What color are you getting it coated in?

I wouldn't want anything less than a professional paint job, which I know would cost a lot more than powder coating as it requires a lot more prep.

I will likely go with flat black or a flat black wrinkle. Although if they have a very dark flat grey I will do that. I hate glossy interiors (as they photograph poorly) so my choices become a lot more limited.

Quote:
Originally Posted by *PCModderMike* 








two years, wow lowfat.....love your work though. You should be proud.

Just what I've thrown together lately. Almost time to fill 'er up.











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






>



Something strangely alluring about the lines in this rig....It has a nice feel.


----------



## wermad

Mowed neighbor's lawn until I had enough to buy a Celeron A 300Mhz







, back in the day. Later, got a part-time at a catering business. Splurged on a pentium 3 667mhz









No water back then though for me, all about air cooling







.


----------



## Dortheleus

Question, is there a "How to" to open fans? For mod and paint jobs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Question, is there a "How to" to open fans? For mod and paint jobs.


This is a general and a pretty good guide. Note that not all fans are made the same. Which ones you had in mind? Maybe someone has already done it









http://www.overclock.net/t/1192785/simple-guide-how-to-paint-most-case-fans


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> Hi guys, heres an update on my build:
> 
> re-did my water loop and added some colour/UV, heres the results:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the rad has been moved outside the case, and i've added 2 extra AF120's I've shortened the hose by about 4" between the rad and the block. Also removed a panel below the drive bays in preperation for construction of an enclosure at the bottom of the case to contain my HDD's/extra wires etc
> 
> There will be a photon res sat on top of said enclosure (thats my next step)
> 
> Heres some more pics (apologies for the low quality, my phone (SGS3) for some reason has developed this grainy effect on the pictures i take and i can't work out how to get rid of it?)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice








The "Audio Boost" on the mobo that glows pink.. If you ever want to turn that off, I found a way







Link
But I guess you dont notice it much with all those other LEDs?


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is a general and a pretty good guide. Note that not all fans are made the same. Which ones you had in mind? Maybe someone has already done it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1192785/simple-guide-how-to-paint-most-case-fans


Thanks for the info


----------



## Pendaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "Audio Boost" on the mobo that glows pink.. If you ever want to turn that off, I found a way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link
> But I guess you dont notice it much with all those other LEDs?


Fedt man!

Tak skal du ha' !


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:
Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE* 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Ya I wish I powder coated. I figured it would be much cheaper to just paint but between the mounting cost of the paint and the hours of labor involved I should have paid a $150 to have my case powder coated.
> 
> Good choice sir. What color are you getting it coated in?
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't want anything less than a professional paint job, which I know would cost a lot more than powder coating as it requires a lot more prep.
> 
> I will likely go with flat black or a flat black wrinkle. Although if they have a very dark flat grey I will do that. I hate glossy interiors (as they photograph poorly) so my choices become a lot more limited.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> two years, wow lowfat.....love your work though. You should be proud.
> 
> Just what I've thrown together lately. Almost time to fill 'er up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >
> 
> 
> 
> Something strangely alluring about the lines in this rig....It has a nice feel.


Coming from you, that's quite a compliment, so thanks.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Coming from you, that's quite a compliment, so thanks.


I always appreciate positive feedback from anyone, but there are a handful of members whose comments are a little more satisfying to read, B Neg being one of those members


----------



## Kurry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Nice build


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> Very beautiful setup !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Great job!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> WOW! Every part just matches perfectly!
> And you don't see any bits of red from the formula board!
> And that backplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that an actual piece of mirror? or polish aluminum?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> That's a beautiful build. Everything matches perfectly... Great Job!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> *Kurry*, that is so sweet!! I am not much for the look of flexible tubing but that's as good as it get's.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yup. Did clampless barbs for most of my watercooling life, but no way would i use stubbies.
> @Kurry very nicely done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Gorgeous. Builds like this make me want to go back to tubing.


Thanks guys!

Backplates are nickel plated 1,5mm steel plates
I still like tubing more than acrylic tubes, but i maybe next build ill give it a try.


----------



## Devildog83

Good lord there are some beautiful rig here, I hope mine will measure up - I got the W/C parts though.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> When i was 17 i was rocking a 166MHz HP that i bought when i was 15. Spent months painting sheds and fertilizer puns to afford it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A $5000 pc at 17 is rather impressive.


I skipped a lot of time hanging out with friends to have this opportunity, but I feel as though it's paid off nicely


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I skipped a lot of time hanging out with friends to have this opportunity, but I feel as though it's paid off nicely


Nice build! I'm 15 and currently sittin on a 1.4k rig







working on my custom WC loop when the rest of the parts come in!


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Dang, some of these rigs here make mine look like a 12 year old built it...

Good work guys. I've already started planning for my next build, but I need at least two years to save up for it.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Nice build! I'm 15 and currently sittin on a 1.4k rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> working on my custom WC loop when the rest of the parts come in!


Build log is lookin' good so far man! I would say check out my log, but it's practically War and Peace length for those who have read that







I did when I was 12, worst decision I have ever made except buying my Saturn LS2000 which I may or may not have blown up on the highway.. But after this computer it'll be time to focus all my time and money into either getting a brazen orange '06 GTO or a '59 Chevy Apache pickup. Sweet Jesus I love those cars









-Zepp


----------



## midnightgypsy

New to the fourm, first post as far as I can remember.

*System Specs:*
scracth build case inspired by Parvum
Asus Maximus V Extreme mobo (Blacken)
i7 3770K O.C 4.8GHZ 1.4v
GSKill Trident X 2400MHz 16Gigs
Asus GTX 670 Direct CUII SLI O.C 1241 core 6808mem
Corsair AX860i power supply
EK D5 X-RES Top 140 w/ D5 Vario Pump (EK-D5 Vario X-RES 140)
EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal + Nickel
EK GeForce 670 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal + Nickel CSQ
PrimoChill Pure Intensified™ - Performance Coolant - UV Red
PrimoChilll 1/2" OD Rigid Revolver Compression Straight Knurled Fittings
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper Slim Profile Dual 120mm Radiator
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper Slim Profile Triple 120mm Radiator



Sorry the crappy pics... I may put up more pics in another thread... If you want.... Thanks


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> New to the fourm, first post as far as I can remember.
> 
> *System Specs:*
> Asus Maximus V Extreme mobo (Blacken)
> i7 3770K O.C 4.8GHZ 1.4v
> GSKill Trident X 2400MHz 16Gigs
> Asus GTX 670 Direct CUII SLI O.C 1241 core 6808mem
> Corsair AX860i power supply
> EK Water blocks and pump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry the crappy pics... I may put up more pics in another thread... If you want.... Thanks


Great build. @Jameswalt1 would appreciate seeing that since he's doing a build in the same case I think.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Thank you PCModderMike
I'm sorry I forgot to say this is a scracth build inspired by Parvum.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> Thank you PCModderMike
> I'm sorry I forgot to say this is a scracth build inspired by Parvum.


I was planning on doing a scratch built acrylic case too after seeing parvum, looks like someone beat me to it. How have you connected all the pieces? because they look glued to me.


----------



## d00bzilla

I too would like to know how that case is held together.... Sandable epoxy?


----------



## midnightgypsy

I used 1/4 sheet of cast acrylic sheet for the case. The mother board tray is out 1/8 acrylic sheet. It is all glued together to keep the cost down using Weld-On #16. Which works very well and make a very strong bond.. All acrylic including the tubing was bought from http://www.delviesplastics.com

Thank you guys for the warm welcome....... Russ


----------



## d00bzilla

Very impressive work man. Glad to have that talent here on OCN.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Very impressive work man. Glad to have that talent here on OCN.


Wow...... A big thank you...!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> I used 1/4 sheet of cast acrylic sheet for the case. The mother board tray is out 1/8 acrylic sheet. It is all glued together to keep the cost down using Weld-On #16. Which works very well and make a very strong bond.. All acrylic including the tubing was bought from http://www.delviesplastics.com
> 
> Thank you guys for the warm welcome....... Russ


Good lord, I could have sworn that was an actual production case. Mighty impressive there! I take the 540 was an inspiration (along with the Magnum series)? You fooled me and that says a lot!

Do you have a build log btw?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> I used 1/4 sheet of cast acrylic sheet for the case. The mother board tray is out 1/8 acrylic sheet. It is all glued together to keep the cost down using Weld-On #16. Which works very well and make a very strong bond.. All acrylic including the tubing was bought from http://www.delviesplastics.com
> 
> Thank you guys for the warm welcome....... Russ


Looks great sir, and +rep for the link to another supplier of products!


----------



## HeyBear

Hi guys, encountered a couple of leaks with my new loop







have made a new thread, would appreaciate any help you could throw my way if you have any ideas.

Here's the link.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good lord, I could have sworn that was an actual production case. Mighty impressive there! I take the 540 was an inspiration (along with the Magnum series)? You fooled me and that says a lot!
> 
> Do you have a build log btw?


Thank you for the kind words..... I have a few pics while in progress... But, they're from my cell phone.. I'll see if I can post them....


----------



## MeanBruce

Brought two of these home today, so beautiful...triple post to get out the word. sowwy.









Performance PCs strikes again, custom sleeving made to order, very nice work. This is Bitspower Ultra-Black fabric, specifically ask them to "shrink to fan hub, no wires visible", not just to fan frame, if you want this look.

$3 per fan. Wootiepie









How's the custom AIO coming along Bruce? It's doing ok man, thanks for asking.









...they carefully tucked it underneath the sticker...









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7204_zps31248346.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7205_zps08685e72.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7200_zps6f85dfb4.jpg.html


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Brought two of these home today, so beautiful...triple post to get out the word. sowwy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Performance PCs strikes again, custom sleeving made to order, very nice work. This is Bitspower Ultra-Black fabric, specifically ask them to "shrink to fan hub, no wires visible", not just to fan frame, if you want this look.
> 
> $3 per fan. Wootiepie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's the custom AIO coming along Bruce? It's doing ok man, thanks for asking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...they carefully tucked it underneath the sticker...


The lady who does the sleeving takes a lot of pride in her work. She is very good at it too. Glad you are happy with the result!


----------



## skupples

Getting the heat shrink under the sticker w/o shriveling the sticker is a pita.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Getting the heat shrink under the sticker w/o shriveling the sticker is a pita.


IKR! Out of 5 gentle typhoons i successfully got 1 under the sticker without melting it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> IKR! Out of 5 gentle typhoons i successfully got 1 under the sticker without melting it.










ninja tip. shrink it further up the wire, then slide it in. That dawned on me after a few derps.


----------



## Devildog83

*It fits!!!*


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> *It fits!!!*


WOOHOO!


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> Corsair Obsidian 450D


Does anyone know if its possible to get that front grill panel for the 750D? Although I love the look of the solid brushed look, I feel it's restricting airflow to the fans behind it

Edit:
Also, does anyone know if the Z-Multi 150 Acrylic res has LED holes?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Does anyone know if its possible to get that front grill panel for the 750D? Although I love the look of the solid brushed look, I feel it's restricting airflow to the fans behind it
> 
> Edit:
> Also, does anyone know if the Z-Multi 150 Acrylic res has LED holes?


I don't know about the grill, but the reservoir comes with an acrylic stop plug that has a space for a 5mm LED, the end caps though do NOT have any LED provisions otherwise.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I don't know about the grill, but the reservoir comes with an acrylic stop plug that has a space for a 5mm LED, the end caps though do NOT have any LED provisions otherwise.


Thank you, +rep!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if its possible to get that front grill panel for the 750D? Although I love the look of the solid brushed look, I feel it's restricting airflow to the fans behind it
> 
> Edit:
> Also, does anyone know if the
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Z-Multi 150 Acrylic
> 
> 
> res has LED holes?


Corsair definitely doesn't sell them. He may have access to a heavy duty cutting machine that can do it for him. Takes a pretty strong jet/laser to cut through those front panels.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The lady who does the sleeving takes a lot of pride in her work. She is very good at it too. Glad you are happy with the result!


That's cool to know for the people that don't want to sleeve their own fans. Frozen CPU's "sleeving service" for fans etc.. is atrocious.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Getting the heat shrink under the sticker w/o shriveling the sticker is a pita.


5 seconds with a heat gun and the sticker will come off.


----------



## Blackops_2

Putting my backup rig in a 450D really love that little case.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Getting the heat shrink under the sticker w/o shriveling the sticker is a pita.


Don't use heat shrink. Just cut your sleeve longer and dab super glue on the wires and feed the sleeve under the sticker! Done 17 that way and all is good!


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Does anyone know if its possible to get that front grill panel for the 750D? Although I love the look of the solid brushed look, I feel it's restricting airflow to the fans behind it
> 
> Edit:
> Also, does anyone know if the Z-Multi 150 Acrylic res has LED holes?


Nah it doesnt fit corsair joseph informed us that its a different size unfortunately


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ninja tip. shrink it further up the wire, then slide it in. That dawned on me after a few derps.


Pretty sure that's in Lutro0's video which you should have watched before starting


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 5 seconds with a heat gun and the sticker will come off.


I hid shriveling issues, but my gun only has two settings. On, and REALLY on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Pretty sure that's in Lutro0's video which you should have watched before starting


No fun in that. Sleeving is pretty self explanatory, just gotta work out a few of the caveats.

Got 33 AP-15s done and only damaged two stickers = success for first time attempt.


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone using the xspc full card blocks in crossfire on either 290's or 290x's?

I really like the look of the blocks themselves, but that crossfire section is a little odd looking with all the plugs. I'm looking for pictures or ideas on how to make them look less cluttered in crossfire. I've seen the little black connectors and while they don't look to bad they don't look as good as say some bits power expandable crossfire fittings. Are there any flush plugs maybe? I've never seen any if there are.

Thanks for any ideas in advance.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Pics to come later but here's the skinny. first for reference, my loop:
> 
> 
> 
> While disassembling last night, I noticed a fleck of verdigris on the center pipe in the Aqualis reservoir. After getting everything apart, there's a nasty film in my Supremacy block as well as more verdigris, a *very* nasty film covering the entire bottom of my reservoir, as well as a brownish staining on the Aqualis pipe.
> 
> If my loop weren't 100% copper pipe, I'd imagine that it's plasticizer.
> 
> What's strange is that everything was totally flushed prior to filling. It was filled with nothing but distilled and then Mayhem's Biocide to even out the Ph level to 7. I'll be honest, I haven't checked it in about 2 months, but even then it was still at 6.8.
> 
> There's too much gunk for it to be a contaminant, so it has to be a chemical reaction. I think the only metals in my loop are copper, nickel, and brass.
> 
> I know there's a ****ton of variables that could be at play here to determine anything in particular, but I wan't to possibly change things up when I reassemble the loop to prevent this from happening again. Perhaps it's only an aesthetic issue, in which case I'll probably be swapping out the reservoir for something non-transparent. Anyone with copper pipe come across a similar situation?


Quoting myself for the back story.

Here's the pics of the block and res buildup:









It all came off super easy with some vinegar and distilled water, I didn't even need to soak it. However, some of the plating on the center pipe in the aqualis was damaged and removed. So weird.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quoting myself for the back story.
> 
> Here's the pics of the block and res buildup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It all came off super easy with some vinegar and distilled water, I didn't even need to soak it. However, some of the plating on the center pipe in the aqualis was damaged and removed. So weird.


Copper and nickel are dissimilar metals and will cause galvanic corrosion, unless you use a corrosion inhibitor. At least from what i understand. I had the same problem before.


----------



## lowfat

Nickel and copper together are not a problem. You should not need an corrosion inhibitor.


----------



## Jimhans1

And yet he did need some, so either something else is up, or the need for corrosion inhibitor is more important than we think........


----------



## Teplous

I just kept an all copper loop, seemed to fix the problem


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That looks like horrific rad flux. It damaged the plating? Almost certainly rad flux.
Alphacool rad?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That looks like horrific rad flux. It damaged the plating? Almost certainly rad flux.
> Alphacool rad?


XSPC AX series.

Flushed with vinegar and DI prior to installation, but it was just a simple shake and empty system.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone using the xspc full card blocks in crossfire on either 290's or 290x's?
> 
> I really like the look of the blocks themselves, but that crossfire section is a little odd looking with all the plugs. I'm looking for pictures or ideas on how to make them look less cluttered in crossfire. I've seen the little black connectors and while they don't look to bad they don't look as good as say some bits power expandable crossfire fittings. Are there any flush plugs maybe? I've never seen any if there are.
> 
> Thanks for any ideas in advance.


Can you link to one of these "cluttered" examples? I am about to connect two XSPC Razors on 670s and pretty sure same 'multiport connector'. Got my eye on the XSPC piece too but might just try to use Bitspower D-Plugs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That looks like horrific rad flux. It damaged the plating? Almost certainly rad flux.
> Alphacool rad?
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC AX series.
> 
> Flushed with vinegar and DI prior to installation, but it was just a simple shake and empty system.
Click to expand...

Now that surprises me greatly,XSPC have been really good for that kind of thing,but plating damage where the substance has been sitting points directly at a corrosive and a pokey one at that,Nickel plate is pretty tough.. Rad flux is water soluble,im not surprised that it just wiped off but would it just wash off as easily?
Why the vinegar btw?


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why the vinegar btw?


my guess would be the cleaning properties of acetic acid in vinegar.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why the vinegar btw?
> 
> 
> 
> my guess would be the cleaning properties of acetic acid in vinegar.
Click to expand...

I know this.

Acids are not recommended for rad cleaning,rad flux is water soluble.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know this.
> 
> *Acids are not recommended for rad cleaning*,rad flux is water soluble.


That's weird, because even @Mayhem
Recommended a vinegar washing followed by a sodium bicarbonate rinsing, they even have brought out a specific cleaning kit along those lines.....


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Can you link to one of these "cluttered" examples? I am about to connect two XSPC Razors on 670s and pretty sure same 'multiport connector'. Got my eye on the XSPC piece too but might just try to use Bitspower D-Plugs.


This is purely subjective and varies by personal opinion.

I "personally" don't like the way all the multiports look when you plug them all up. (minus in/out of course)

Now if there was a plug that would sit flush inside the hole that would make a difference to "me" as far as aesthetics go. Ive never seen this of course as it appears all fittings seal with oring between both mating surfaces.

All the plugs to "me" kill the sexyness of the block.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's weird, because even @Mayhem
> Recommended a vinegar washing followed by a sodium bicarbonate rinsing, they even have brought out a specific cleaning kit along those lines.....


Well the baking soda will neutralise any remaining traces of the acid. Whereas if you just rinse with vinegar you could leave enough of the acid inside the rad to cause damage.

Interesting BNeg you say the rad flux is water soluble. Isn't it only the flux residue that's water soluable, and the solder itself is metal, which won't dissolve in water. Or how does it work?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's weird, because even @Mayhem
> Recommended a vinegar washing followed by a sodium bicarbonate rinsing, they even have brought out a specific cleaning kit along those lines.....


Yup Mayhems does recommend said process as per their user thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know this.
> 
> *Acids are not recommended for rad cleaning*,rad flux is water soluble.
> 
> 
> 
> That's weird, because even @Mayhem
> Recommended a vinegar washing followed by a sodium bicarbonate rinsing, they even have brought out a specific cleaning kit along those lines.....
Click to expand...

And?

The product is for his coolant,no one else has to use a cleaning kit for their coolants.

Niko from EK and Shoggy from AquaC have both commented in this thread warning against using acids on rads,who are you going to trust? A coolant seller that has had numerous issues with various watercooling products or the guys that make the products he has an issue with?
Stripping the oxidization from Copper only leaves it open to more attack,the oxide layer has the same properties as anodizing,it protects the substrate from attack and is very resilient. Or the solder interface bond line that is also easily attacked by acid?
Personally,I only recommend water,its what the manufacturers recommend and its what is safest for the kit that you spent your hard earned on.


----------



## DarthBaggins

But haven't other coolants had issues with said component manufacturers, not disagreeing with you but ek's nickel plated products have kept me from purchasing water blocks for my gpu's since they don't carry a full cover in copper, but again I have yet to personally use Mayhems products either due to compatibility issues as well. Which is why I have stuck with distilled and a kill coil and had zero issues in the 6 months I've had my loop running and even added a new pump top, some new primo lines, and a rad. I think it comes down to thoroughly flushing the components (only used distilled and primo's sysprep and flushed for 5-8hrs).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> *But haven't other coolants had issues with said component manufacturers*, not disagreeing with you but ek's nickel plated products have kept me from purchasing water blocks for my gpu's since they don't carry a full cover in copper, but again I have yet to personally use Mayhems products either due to compatibility issues as well.


Nope,but in Mick defense,he has a much broader range of products to go wrong....

EK's nickel woes are behind them now,I have not seen a Nickel ermagherrrrrrrrrred thread for a long time now,if any EK fails were going around,RRT would of been all over it.

Just my 2c,wash your kit in whatever you feel comfortable with


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now that surprises me greatly,XSPC have been really good for that kind of thing,but plating damage where the substance has been sitting points directly at a corrosive and a pokey one at that,Nickel plate is pretty tough.. Rad flux is water soluble,im not surprised that it just wiped off but would it just wash off as easily?
> Why the vinegar btw?


That being the case, it didn't wash off until I used the vinegar. I've always used vinegar to flush parts first as that's what I read awhile back when I got into this. Considering that I do test the Ph of the loop, I wouldn't think the acidic property of it would be a concern.

My chemist friend thinks it might be a result of the DI water leeching metals and then depositing them after a slight temperature change (reservoir is directly after both rads).

His other thought is that it might be salt deposits, but that doesn't seem likely.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now that surprises me greatly,XSPC have been really good for that kind of thing,but plating damage where the substance has been sitting points directly at a corrosive and a pokey one at that,Nickel plate is pretty tough.. Rad flux is water soluble,im not surprised that it just wiped off but would it just wash off as easily?
> Why the vinegar btw?
> 
> 
> 
> That being the case, it didn't wash off until I used the vinegar. I've always used vinegar to flush parts first as that's what I read awhile back when I got into this. Considering that I do test the Ph of the loop, I wouldn't think the acidic property of it would be a concern.
> 
> My chemist friend thinks it might be a result of the DI water leeching metals and then depositing them after a slight temperature change (reservoir is directly after both rads).
Click to expand...

Wouldnt explain the corrosive effect tho,how long exactly was sitting drying?


----------



## Michalius

The bit of nickel that is missing from the aqualis pipe was there when I initially drained it. It actually lined up perfectly with the water line in the res.

It's been dry for 1 week now though.

*edit*

And just so people know in this thread, I'm almost positive it's a result of something that *I* did. I'm not trying to find a fault with products, but rather with what I do to prepare and maintain my loop.

Here's what chemist friend had to say:
Quote:


> Ya
> Imo
> That isn't copper oxidizing bro, that's organics, probably from machining. Grab gasoline or nail polish remover, rub on brown. If brown wipes better with these organic strippers, then it's an organic.
> 
> You should think of flushing with something organic
> Alcohol is wekest and easily doable
> Can do glyxols or acetone or paint stripper.
> Then use alcohol after the harsh organic stripper to get rid of the organic stripper. Then water.
> No amount of water is going to flush organic contaminants from machining
> You are right about oxide layer protecting copper
> Which is why you don't want to clean with acid s as you may dissolve that layer
> They have specific flushes that create that layer btw
> They prime copper tubes by running certain chemicals to create that layer


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> The bit of nickel that is missing from the aqualis pipe was there when I initially drained it. It actually lined up perfectly with the water line in the res.
> 
> It's been dry for 1 week now though.


Something floating on the waterline,a film of something acidic.

Im sticking with rad flux and I want a sammich.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something floating on the waterline,a film of something acidic.
> 
> Im sticking with rad flux and I want a sammich.


If you were local, I'd make you one for the help


----------



## skupples

We have seen plenty of nickel death since the EN clean up. Most of them never run anti-corrosive in their loops.







though lots of them run silver!


----------



## SRICE4904

my new EVGA water loop


----------



## charliebrown

Has any seen what it looks like


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I finished my first custom loop today. It doesn't look the greatest but I'm happy with it.

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/temporary_zps78171ecd.jpg.html


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I finished my first custom loop today. It doesn't look the greatest but I'm happy with it.
> 
> http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/temporary_zps78171ecd.jpg.html


Looks good!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> This is purely subjective and varies by personal opinion.
> 
> I "personally" don't like the way all the multiports look when you plug them all up. (minus in/out of course)
> 
> Now if there was a plug that would sit flush inside the hole that would make a difference to "me" as far as aesthetics go. Ive never seen this of course as it appears all fittings seal with oring between both mating surfaces.


Ok yeah figured you meant cluttered by the stop plugs but wanted to be sure; just started looking at options for connecting these blocks. 7 options for routing is nice though but the multiport does have 'a lot going on'. Plain matte black plugs might not stick out so much.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That's cool to know for the people that don't want to sleeve their own fans. Frozen CPU's "sleeving service" for fans etc.. is atrocious.


Really? I've had good experiences with Frozen's custom sleeving service myself...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I finished my first custom loop today. It doesn't look the greatest but I'm happy with it.
> 
> http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/temporary_zps78171ecd.jpg.html


I think it looks nice! Just need to get those GPU's under water!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Plain matte black plugs might not stick out so much.


Yeah that's what I was thinking as well. The lowest profile possible would help as well.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Looks good!


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I think it looks nice! Just need to get those GPU's under water!


Thanks

Once I get a gpu that's worth watercooling I will, but for now I don't want to spend any more money on the 660's


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That's cool, I totally understand. Not like the 660's are exactly hot running cards in the first place!


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That's cool, I totally understand. Not like the 660's are exactly hot running cards in the first place!


No they aren't, but I'm hoping I will be able to upgrade within the next couple of months. My cousin is planning on getting the gtx 780ti matrix when it releases so I'm hoping I can get his 780 somewhat cheap.


----------



## skupples

Think I got my tube routing figure out... Please critique

Out of pump, down to bottom radiator, which flows into the front 480, out of the front 480 into the graphics cards, through the board, up into the top 2x 480s, then out of the back panel into the reservoir. It sounds nice, but i'm not sure if i'll be able to pull it off w/ soft tube. The main runs i'm worried about are: pump >> pass through & back panel into reservoir. Worst case scenario with the reservoir is that I can't affix it to the case.



oh, and I found this on google... Why does STREN Have Derick's orange monster?


----------



## lowfat

@skupples are you using acrylic or standard tubing?

I took my server out for a quick drive this evening.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-7.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-6.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-9.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-11.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-13.jpg.html


----------



## skupples

@Lowfat Soft. White LRT.


----------



## charliebrown

Guys help me out I'm in the middle of my loop first one and I'm using acrylic so it's work but I'm trying to get my order right cooling
Fx 8320 4.2ghz
Asus 770
I have a 360 up top 240 on bottom sp120 quiet on both I want to go pump-240-cpu-gpu-360-res will that work for good temps


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @Lowfat Soft. White LRT.


Your build is just screaming for straight acrylic tubing runs >.<.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Your build is just screaming for straight acrylic tubing runs >.<.


it really is, but I have over 9000 compression fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Guys help me out I'm in the middle of my loop first one and I'm using acrylic so it's work but I'm trying to get my order right cooling
> Fx 8320 4.2ghz
> Asus 770
> I have a 360 up top 240 on bottom sp120 quiet on both I want to go pump-240-cpu-gpu-360-res will that work for good temps


order doesn't really matter, rule of thumb is res above pump.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Guys help me out I'm in the middle of my loop first one and I'm using acrylic so it's work but I'm trying to get my order right cooling
> Fx 8320 4.2ghz
> Asus 770
> I have a 360 up top 240 on bottom sp120 quiet on both I want to go pump-240-cpu-gpu-360-res will that work for good temps


loop order has almost no effect on temps.


----------



## charliebrown

Ok great thanks guys


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Guys help me out I'm in the middle of my loop first one and I'm using acrylic so it's work but I'm trying to get my order right cooling
> Fx 8320 4.2ghz
> Asus 770
> I have a 360 up top 240 on bottom sp120 quiet on both I want to go pump-240-cpu-gpu-360-res will that work for good temps


When you have one card in your loop it doesn't matter if the cpu and gpu are next to each other as the water is flowing too fast for it to. so yes that will be absolutely fine.

@skupples
Is hole from the midplate to lower gpu misaligned or is it just the picture? that would really annoy me if it isn't


----------



## peterpan

So got off work after a 12hr shift went to Walmart to get distilled water to flush my new watercooling parts mistakenly grabbed purified water now I know I can use this for my mayhems coolant but will I be ok to flush my parts with this or do I need distilled water


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterpan*
> 
> So got off work after a 12hr shift went to Walmart to get distilled water to flush my new watercooling parts mistakenly grabbed purified water now I know I can use this for my mayhems coolant but will I be ok to flush my parts with this or do I need distilled water


Purified water is one that has been ran through filters, so it'll still have particulate matter in it. You are going to need to use Distilled water for both mixing with Mayhems Concentrates/Dyes. You are also going to want to use Distilled water as the final flush on your rads. You can use the purified water to flush the rads as long as your final flush is with distilled water.


----------



## peterpan

So don't use purified water with mayhems and final flush has to be distilled got it


----------



## Wolfsbora

Question for the experts: is acrylic tubing better for a loop due to its rigidity? I am no physics expert by any means, but it would seem that with less movement of tubing there is more efficiency even if it isn't very significant. The downside of rigid tubing is that it requires a lot of 90 degree bends and can most likely affect the flow rate. I'm debating on which way to go with my new loop. Thoughts?


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @skupples are you using acrylic or standard tubing?
> 
> I took my server out for a quick drive this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-7.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-6.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-9.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-11.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-1-13.jpg.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Question for the experts: is acrylic tubing better for a loop due to its rigidity? I am no physics expert by any means, but it would seem that with less movement of tubing there is more efficiency even if it isn't very significant. The downside of rigid tubing is that it requires a lot of 90 degree bends and can most likely affect the flow rate. I'm debating on which way to go with my new loop. Thoughts?


The restriction of a knuckle 90 and a sweeping 90 are very different things. The sweeping 90 will have no restriction.
The rigidity will have next to no influence on performance.
Hardlines are for the lazy that want long service intervals and something different,I am in both groups. Because I see so many acrylic loops,I'm considering going back to copper...

Or CF tube.....


----------



## HeyBear

@Wolfsbora I would't say the advantages lie with increased flow. It won't have any problems with plasticizer though, clarity will be better, especially over time. you might be able to choose a more efficient loop design as you can bend it without the risk of kinks. There's probably other things I've overlooked as well.

As for the effects of multiple bends, it's not going to make much of a difference. Take a looksy here.

Working with acrylic just takes a fair bit more time than flexible tubing. If you have the patience and don't mind putting a bit of extra time into planning, acrylic tubing in my opinion wins hands down. It's certainly going to give you a harder time than flexible tubing though. That might be just me though, I couldn't really source angled adapters, matt black bitspower seem to be constantly out of stock in my country. As a result, quite a few of my bends were very tight and that can be a nuisance. that would be the same for flexible tubing though.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The restriction of a knuckle 90 and a sweeping 90 are very different things. The sweeping 90 will have no restriction.
> The rigidity will have next to no influence on performance.
> *Hardlines are for the lazy that want long service intervals and something different*,I am in both groups. Because I see so many acrylic loops,I'm considering going back to copper...
> Or CF tube.....


That would be me!


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or CF tube.....


Carbon fibre? That would certainly be something different!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> @Wolfsbora I would't say the advantages lie with increased flow. It won't have any problems with plasticizer though, clarity will be better, especially over time. you might be able to choose a more efficient loop design as you can bend it without the risk of kinks. There's probably other things I've overlooked as well.
> 
> As for the effects of multiple bends, it's not going to make much of a difference. Take a looksy here.
> 
> Working with acrylic just takes a fair bit more time than flexible tubing. If you have the patience and don't mind putting a bit of extra time into planning, acrylic tubing in my opinion wins hands down. It's certainly going to give you a harder time than flexible tubing though. That might be just me though, I couldn't really source angled adapters, matt black bitspower seem to be constantly out of stock in my country. As a result, quite a few of my bends were very tight and that can be a nuisance. that would be the same for flexible tubing though.


Martin pulls through again! Thanks for the link. It certainly will help with my decision making. I have pretty tight confines within my Corsair 550D case and I'll be running 3 different rads (all Alphacool), 1 - 240mm Monsta, 1 - 240mm ST30, and 1 - 140mm ST30. They will practically frame the mobo. The dual pump/res combo sits in my 5.25" bay so at one point within the design there will need to be one tube that goes across from one side to the other. Not sure how to make it look good. I've drawn up multiple ways and there is still a tube going straight across my mobo. I don't want it to take away from my nickel plated EK CPU block or the ASUS Maximus V Formula that I will be using to replace my low end ASUS mobo.

Below is a terrible mockup but should give you an idea. Since this pic, I have de-stickered my ugly PSU and have added a second 670 FTW in SLI, both will be water cooled. I copied the dual fans in the front and pasted them behind the red box that will be the Monsta in a vertical setting. Imagine my H80i as the 140mm, and the red box at the top is the dual 120mm that I plan on buying. Above that rad are 2 fans that are out of sight. Any thoughts on how I can do the tubing without it looking terrible? I plan on modding the door panel and adding a plexiglass panel, so I don't want the setup to look crappy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or CF tube.....
> 
> 
> 
> Carbon fibre? That would certainly be something different!
Click to expand...

Got a chair/sim build going on,it will be using 16mm pullwound CF tube. Does mean fittings instead of bends tho.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The restriction of a knuckle 90 and a sweeping 90 are very different things. The sweeping 90 will have no restriction.
> The rigidity will have next to no influence on performance.
> Hardlines are for the lazy that want long service intervals and something different,I am in both groups. Because I see so many acrylic loops,I'm considering going back to copper...
> 
> Or CF tube.....


Hardlines are for the lazy? It takes a heck of a lot of work to cut and bend acrylic tubing, it's much easier to cut a flexible tube and push it on. I never even considered service intervals when I purchased my loop. This is my first loop but from all of the builds I have seen a nicely done rigid acrylic loop just plain looks better, more professional. The flexible tubing looks kinda second rate to me. Just my opinion though.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The restriction of a knuckle 90 and a sweeping 90 are very different things. The sweeping 90 will have no restriction.
> The rigidity will have next to no influence on performance.
> Hardlines are for the lazy that want long service intervals and something different,I am in both groups. Because I see so many acrylic loops,I'm considering going back to copper...
> 
> Or CF tube.....


I respect that opinion. The copper loops I've seen are pretty damn impressive. Now, CF would be awesome to see.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yeah that's what I was thinking as well. The lowest profile possible would help as well.


Yeah the Barrows are plain (and cheap) but not quite low profile. Thicker than BPs etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I took my server out for a quick drive this evening.


lol&#8230;what&#8230;why? Though this begs a philosophical question...

_If an ESXi box is in a field and there is no one around&#8230;does it still host VMs_?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> lol&#8230;what&#8230;why? Though this begs a philosophical question...
> 
> _If an ESXi box is in a field and there is no one around&#8230;does it still host VMs_?


Only if the power cord is long enough


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Only if the power cord is long enough


Maybe doable with a portable power generator and a satellite. Lol


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> lol&#8230;what&#8230;why? Though this begs a philosophical question...
> 
> _If an ESXi box is in a field and there is no one around&#8230;does it still host VMs_?


For fun









And I actually have not installed any VMs on it yet so the answer is likely no.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Heh that was a whole lot of sweet high tech surrounded by a bunch of kinda bland low! Interesting shot.









Looks nice and quiet out there in AB too though.


----------



## snef

some pics of my next build Icy Blue Angel II

for this one, I choose to go with Bitspower blocks, seriously, I like it a lot more than supremacy, different from EK and XSPC, in real life this block is really amazing

just waiting for ram and GPU block to see if I keep the frost or if I will polish it


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Something just moved in my pants.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Plain matte black plugs might not stick out so much.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah that's what I was thinking as well. The lowest profile possible would help as well.
Click to expand...

Or possibly you could just fabricate a simple shield that snaps over the top of it. If you are really looking for some nice work maybe get one of these modders to build you a sweet facade with led lit cutout of something that snaps over the top. For a more simple look, a peice of sheet metal with some sort of clip and painted, would make it really clean looking.


----------



## Hasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of my next build Icy Blue Angel II
> 
> for this one, I choose to go with Bitspower blocks, seriously, I like it a lot more than supremacy, different from EK and XSPC, in real life this block is really amazing
> 
> just waiting for ram and GPU block to see if I keep the frost or if I will polish it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey Snef.

There is something I would love to see you try: Frosted look on all acrylic parts (water-blocks, pump-top, res, tubes, ...)

Since you're going for an Icy theme, frosted could turn out pretty bad ass. Maybe with some etching work or something similar to play with how the lighting affects the components?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Something just moved in my pants.


Two solutions:

1. Antibiotics.

2. Exorcism.

Thanks - T


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good lord, I could have sworn that was an actual production case. Mighty impressive there! I take the 540 was an inspiration (along with the Magnum series)? You fooled me and that says a lot!
> 
> Do you have a build log btw?


I just posted on here..... Here's the link...... Thank you...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487112/scratch-build-the-linden-project#post_22207068


----------



## Pimphare

I'm really digging Primochill's Phase II CTR reservoir system. Looks like they've been doing their homework.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbsXV-rWKzU

I've had nothing but trouble with their older version CTR reservoir, but these sure look promising. So many options too!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Two solutions:
> 
> 1. Antibiotics.
> 
> 2. Exorcism.
> 
> Thanks - T


No, no&#8230;thank you! Seriously, lovely and clean-looking block from BP; especially nice with that blue running through. Look Ma! Subtle branding!


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of my next build Icy Blue Angel II
> 
> for this one, I choose to go with Bitspower blocks, seriously, I like it a lot more than supremacy, different from EK and XSPC, in real life this block is really amazing
> 
> just waiting for ram and GPU block to see if I keep the frost or if I will polish it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm loving that block! Are you making a new build log for this project?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of my next build Icy Blue Angel II
> 
> for this one, I choose to go with Bitspower blocks, seriously, I like it a lot more than supremacy, different from EK and XSPC, in real life this block is really amazing
> 
> just waiting for ram and GPU block to see if I keep the frost or if I will polish it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


About to order a summit EF as well. I love the ice black one just wish it had led holes in it. Might have to drill some. I think black ice will look great with pastel green coupled with a green/black theme

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I'm loving that block! Are you making a new build log for this project?


yep, in my signature, but started today









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> About to order a summit EF as well. I love the ice black one just wish it had led holes in it. Might have to drill some. I think black ice will look great with pastel green coupled with a green/black theme
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i dont think the black one have any led hole
but easy to drill anyway

and yes Black with green will be really nice


----------



## siffonen

Watching these builds in this thread makes me to think my future changes again.
I`m planning to run my tubes hidden in back side of my 900d, so that only three tube are visible.
Decided to just use flexible tubing all around, but now i`m thinking of doing these three visible runs with acrylic tubing and all hidden runs with flexible tubing.
100% acrylic loop is too costly, but actually usin hard+soft runs may be the cheapest option because i dont need so many angle fittings that i need for 100% flex tube runs









What do you guys think, should i use a compination or just a full sof tubing? It would be a nicer looking setup with acrylic tubing, and thats why i am thinking of that, i just need to change my fittings order a little.


----------



## lowfat

Acrylic really isn't more money than flexible tubing.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Acrylic really isn't more money than flexible tubing.


Exactly this. Just need a heatgun and silicon insert then have a go at it. It does cost a little extra getting started for the first time though. Gotta factor in practice pieces that go to waste.


----------



## siffonen

I just dont want to get all new fittings for full acrylic. I can ofcourse try to sell my current fittings, but probably i will use both types.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Soo beautiful! When i buy a gpu block, and eventually a cpu block, i will look into the bitspower ones!


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Acrylic really isn't more money than flexible tubing.


*True*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Exactly this. Just need a heatgun and silicon insert then have a go at it. It does cost a little extra getting started for the first time though. Gotta factor in practice pieces that go to waste.


*Very True*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I just dont want to get all new fittings for full acrylic. I can of course try to sell my current fittings, but probably i will use both types.


*But to me the look of Acrylic is priceless and that's just me*


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> *True*
> *Very True*
> *But to me the look of Acrylic is priceless and that's just me*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that is slick. I'm really debating using acrylic now... The cost is nearly the same if not less.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> *True*
> *Very True*
> *But to me the look of Acrylic is priceless and that's just me*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build mate,looks good....


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I just dont want to get all new fittings for full acrylic. I can ofcourse try to sell my current fittings, but probably i will use both types.


Monsoon sell conversion kits for less that let you re use your lock ring from their "normal" fittings.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Wow, that is slick. I'm really debating using acrylic now... The cost is nearly the same if not less.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Nice build mate,looks good....


*Thanks guys there is a lot of cash and hard work In this rig But it was FUN ! building it*


----------



## Blackops_2

Just ordered all of this..







I think i would prefer and like acrylic but since this will be my first loop i'm not too wild about getting into bending and all. Acrylic is very sleek and clean. Though you can mimic it's more clean look by just running straights with tubing and a ton of fittings. At least that's what i'm going for. Didn't really want too many bends in mine. Thinking about posting a build log but this is all new to me so it's not going to be up to speed with some of the guys here as well as it's going to take me a while to assemble.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> *Thanks guys there is a lot of cash and hard work In this rig But it was FUN ! building it*


No doubt man, i just sunk 420$ into the listed above and still have a ways to go. If you count the 510$ i spent on the 780 + EK block i'm at near half of my original build expense already.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> *But to me the look of Acrylic is priceless and that's just me*


Hells yeah! So worth it. Nice work btw.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Monsoon sell conversion kits for less that let you re use your lock ring from their "normal" fittings.


*I think they tell about them here* http://youtu.be/tU1MoA3S30s


----------



## skupples

Every new Acrylic rig makes me want to move towards some type of rigid fitting, I just don't want to drop the money on 16 hard line fittings. I would love to do a nickel plated copper hard line.


----------



## Michalius

Pneumatic push fittings are cheap as all getout.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853

$2.30 a piece. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay more secure than any of the rigid line fittings too. I'm fairly certain that it could hold my body weight if I were to hang on one.

I think they look quite lovely:


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Pneumatic push fittings are cheap as all getout.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853
> 
> $2.30 a piece. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay more secure than any of the rigid line fittings too. I'm fairly certain that it could hold my body weight if I were to hang on one.
> 
> I think they look quite lovely:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's just too bad they are made by Phobya.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Just ordered all of this..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think i would prefer and like acrylic but since this will be my first loop i'm not too wild about getting into bending and all. Acrylic is very sleek and clean. Though you can mimic it's more clean look by just running straights with tubing and a ton of fittings. At least that's what i'm going for. Didn't really want too many bends in mine. Thinking about posting a build log but this is all new to me so it's not going to be up to speed with some of the guys here as well as it's going to take me a while to assemble.
> 
> 
> 
> No doubt man, i just sunk 420$ into the listed above and still have a ways to go. If you count the 510$ i spent on the 780 + EK block i'm at near half of my original build expense already.


Congrats! You and I are in the same boat, Ron Swanson. We'll both have spent around the same amount and are both new to the loop game. Keep us posted. I'm 500 into my parts with another 500 to go. I need more paychecks. Lots more paychecks. Good luck, man!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's just too bad they are made by Phobya.


----------



## EliteReplay

nice work guys


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


lets be honest. phobya has just branded them at this point.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Pneumatic push fittings are cheap as all getout.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853
> 
> $2.30 a piece. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay more secure than any of the rigid line fittings too. I'm fairly certain that it could hold my body weight if I were to hang on one.
> 
> I think they look quite lovely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's just too bad they are made by Phobya.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I believe these are made by an oem and just sold through companies like Phobya and Alphacool. I've seen these on sites for companies that sell in bulk quantities to the industrial sector.. I've seen some really gorgeous ones in 12mm od. These are pretty solid and as Michalius pointed out the bite is very strong. The only thing I don't like, they're metric and the threads are very long. Even BNeg uses these in his SR2 build. If I recall, he linked these to folks who were asking about these. And also warned me about the long threads. I was about to pull the trigger until another member mentioned I couldn't use 3/8" od imperial copper with these.


----------



## skupples

That would make sense. Phobya makes very few things them selves. I think the only thing they truly manufacture them selves are those ugly arsed blocks they make.

In other news. This Stepping bit cuts through CaseLabs Aluminum like hot knife threw butter!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Congrats! You and I are in the same boat, Ron Swanson. We'll both have spent around the same amount and are both new to the loop game. Keep us posted. I'm 500 into my parts with another 500 to go. I need more paychecks. Lots more paychecks. Good luck, man!


Thanks man you too. I'll probably end up creating a build log at some point. I'm ready to get it going.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That would make sense. Phobya makes very few things them selves. I think the only thing they truly manufacture them selves are those ugly arsed blocks they make.
> 
> In other news. This Stepping bit cuts through CaseLabs Aluminum like hot knife threw butter!


orly? Might need to invest in one as I think I will be making several holes in my case for pass thrus


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That would make sense. Phobya makes very few things them selves. I think the only thing they truly manufacture them selves are those ugly arsed blocks they make.
> 
> In other news. This Stepping bit cuts through CaseLabs Aluminum like hot knife threw butter!


How's the pc finish? Not sure if it flakes more on matte finish (vs gloss).


----------



## lowfat

Aluminum can easily be drilled, filled, cut and sanded. Even the thicker stuff. I try to buy aluminum cases whenever possible because of it. Modding steel is such a pain in the rear compared to aluminum.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> orly? Might need to invest in one as I think I will be making several holes in my case for pass thrus


I went with This A bit pricey, but I wanted to make sure I had a semi-decent product for the application.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How's the pc finish? Not sure if it flakes more on matte finish (vs gloss).


No issues what so ever. Iv'e already sealed up the first hole, will link a picture of how clean it is tomorrow. I have three more to make. I'm also attempting to trim down the pedestal hole cover plate, but I think i'm going to need to just take it over to a machine shop, so that I know it's perfect.


----------



## Pimphare

I bought a pack of them unibits. They're gonna be pricey no matter where you look, but they'll last a long time if used properly.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I bought a pack of them unibits. They're gonna be pricey no matter where you look, but they'll last a long time if used properly.


Yap, I hit it with lube & only did a few steps @ a time.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> $2.30 a piece. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay more secure than any of the rigid line fittings too. I'm fairly certain that it could hold my body weight if I were to hang on one.


These fittings look awesome and are very secure to work with. They are the same rebranded ones as the aquatuning site.


----------



## wermad

I bought the inexpensive kits at harborfreight and the time I used it on my TH10, it swayed a bit. Looks like they're just at the end of their life. Good thing I was cutting cable pass-throughs so it wasn't a big deal at all.

Might have to get a new kit


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I bought the inexpensive kits at harborfreight and the time I used it on my TH10, it swayed a bit. Looks like they're just at the end of their life. Good thing I was cutting cable pass-throughs so it wasn't a big deal at all.
> 
> Might have to get a new kit


I was going to attempt to come out of the back panel into the res, but it doesn't look like i'll be able to do that unless I leave the top back panel off, which isn't an option. SO! I have to tear out the top two rads tomorrow to make two holes. One from the mobo to the top rads, then one down into the reservoir into the pump. The main cut/run i'm worried about is from the pump into the basement, as it is on a seem between the 120.1 cover & the chassis. I was thinking about stashing the pump in the basement, but i'm already low on space due to running 2X PSUs on the back side (instead of side to side).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Pneumatic push fittings are cheap as all getout.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853
> 
> $2.30 a piece. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay more secure than any of the rigid line fittings too. I'm fairly certain that it could hold my body weight if I were to hang on one.
> 
> I think they look quite lovely:


I use them...a lot.
they are like a pitbull with a dead rabbit in their teeth. Take a brave man to take the rabbit.......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Pneumatic push fittings are cheap as all getout.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853
> 
> $2.30 a piece. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay more secure than any of the rigid line fittings too. I'm fairly certain that it could hold my body weight if I were to hang on one.
> 
> I think they look quite lovely:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just too bad they are *made by Phobya.*
Click to expand...

They are in a Phobya baggie but they are not Phobya made. Luckily AquaT sold them as generic OEM when I got them. The Phobya tie-in is a recent development.

My only complaint is the threads are massively long


----------



## charliebrown

Are these for acrylic or regular tubing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Are these for acrylic or regular tubing


Copper mainly but they work for acrylic.


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @skupples are you using acrylic or standard tubing?
> 
> I took my server out for a quick drive this evening.


Server in its natural habitat.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The main cut/run i'm worried about is from the pump into the basement, as it is on a seem between the 120.1 cover & the chassis.


How about one of these Skupp?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=35664


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> How about one of these Skupp?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=35664


I'm using black pass throughs to contrast. I may just have to use a single slot SLI fitting.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Thanks man you too. I'll probably end up creating a build log at some point. I'm ready to get it going.


Same here! I'll definitely sub your build log. I've considered starting mine as I gather all of the parts. Been prepping my case and going through the motions.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Same here! I'll definitely sub your build log. I've considered starting mine as I gather all of the parts. Been prepping my case and going through the motions.


Be sure to post yours as well







i'll probably create a build log today or when i get what i just ordered, for better pictures lol.


----------



## Pimphare

Pants are getting tight..



I think I would've went with these fittings over my Primochills.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Pants are getting tight..
> 
> 
> 
> I think I would've went with these fittings over my Primochills.


Omg...soo sexy...


----------



## Simplynicko

can the threads be filed down? i don't see why not. well. in this case grinded down.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

How does one go about getting sponsored, and or doing an appropriate building log on here? I thought of a really fun idea for a build, and I simply need a case to build in, but it is silly hard to find what I need here.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> How does one go about getting sponsored, and or doing an appropriate building log on here? I thought of a really fun idea for a build, and I simply need a case to build in, but it is silly hard to find what I need here.


Build logs are simple, just create a thread labeled with [ Build Log ] in an appropriate forum. Then post your progress as normal.

As far as getting sponsored, I personally would not know as I am not sponsored by any one. I would assume it is like in anything else however, you'd have to have a good record of solid work and probably more importantly community followers. If they see that investing in your build will help promote their company and products, then they may sponsor you.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Build logs are simple, just create a thread labeled with [ Build Log ] in an appropriate forum. Then post your progress as normal.
> 
> As far as getting sponsored, I personally would not know as I am not sponsored by any one. I would assume it is like in anything else however, you'd have to have a good record of solid work and probably more importantly community followers. If they see that investing in your build will help promote their company and products, then they may sponsor you.


I wish I could get a sponsor for this one build. I would love to see it come to life, but at the amount I have spent so far, I can't afford to do anymore, lol.

Thanks for the reply.

I will be posting more pictures when my new tubing gets here, and I get a chance to switch over to the clear 1/2x3/4. I am switching out pumps at the same time.


----------



## bundymania

United Colors of Bitspower


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Pants are getting tight..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I would've went with these fittings over my Primochills.


Yeah, they were starting to grow on me too. I was considering swapping out my Primochill Revolvers for them. If only it wasn't for Monsoon opting to use antimicrobial silver barbs/bases for all of their fittings now. I'm too worried it might cause issues to have silver threads screwed directly into other metals like copper, brass, nickel, etc. A silver coil somewhere in your loop is one thing, but direct contact with other metals is another.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, they were starting to grow on me too. I was considering swapping out my Primochill Revolvers for them. If only it wasn't for Monsoon opting to use antimicrobial silver barbs/bases for all of their fittings now. I'm too worried it might cause issues to have silver threads screwed directly into other metals like copper, brass, nickel, etc. A silver coil somewhere in your loop is one thing, but direct contact with other metals is another.


There's been a huge debate on this. I wonder if the monsoon fitting sleeves will fit on the primochill hardline barbs? If so it'd be cool if you could buy the monsoon sleeves separately.


----------



## spitty13

Anyone know what type of case this is?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurry*
> 
> Updated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spitty13*
> 
> Anyone know what type of case this is?


Looks like a Silverstone TJ07


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Looks like a Silverstone TJ07


I'd have to agree.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spitty13*
> 
> Anyone know what type of case this is?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Looks like a Silverstone TJ07


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> I'd have to agree.


Yup, I own one, definitely a TJ07, it has been modded a little bit from the looks of it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Just got this from PPCS, happy Mommy's day.

Happy Mother's Day with some more great savings from Performance-PCs!
View this email in your browser

Performance-PCs.com and it staff would like to wish all our customers and their families a Happy upcoming Mothers Day!! Please enjoy a nice discount off selected products on our website!

Tell Mom to enter during checkout:

Spend $50-$500, get 8% off: "MOTHER14-8"
Spend $500-1000, get 9% off: "MOTHER14-9"
Spend over $1000, get 10% off: "MOTHER14-10"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from May 2nd through May 11th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just got this from PPCS, happy Mommy's day.
> 
> Happy Mother's Day with some more great savings from Performance-PCs!
> View this email in your browser
> 
> Performance-PCs.com and it staff would like to wish all our customers and their families a Happy upcoming Mothers Day!! Please enjoy a nice discount off selected products on our website!
> 
> Tell Mom to enter during checkout:
> 
> Spend $50-$500, get 8% off: "MOTHER14-8"
> Spend $500-1000, get 9% off: "MOTHER14-9"
> Spend over $1000, get 10% off: "MOTHER14-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from May 2nd through May 11th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


Thanks for passing around the savings!


----------



## fast_fate

I have a discount code to pass along as well








Rocket Science have activated *fastfate0105* to receive *free shipping on orders over $50*
It is definitely valid for all Australian residents and waiting on confirmation that it is good for overseas buyers.
EDIT - *just got confirmation that the code is good for FREE shipping worldwide*








The 1/2" OD fittings designed for copper that work perfect with 1/2" OD acrylic tube also.
They're awaiting arrival of black nickel batch.
The silver nickel is in stock (which is what I got) look sensational and will be using them in my S_alive_8 build.


----------



## Pimphare

@fast_fate
All that hard work paid off! Glad to have you back sir.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @fast_fate
> All that hard work paid off! Glad to have you back sir.


I've been lurking








Have some time on hand today and hope to have at least all the GPU wiring finalized.
But local football derby and supporting beverages may put an early end to the work


----------



## charliebrown

Should I turn my block around or it does not matter


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Should I turn my block around or it does not matter


Does you block have a bend to it when you snug it down?


----------



## Devildog83

I have a 5mm light in the photon but only the bottom lights up, is that right?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I turn my block around or it does not matter


It doesn't matter.
Install the block so the inlet & outlet ports are most functional for your loop


----------



## charliebrown

Ok cool my inlet ate the bottom so coming from my gpu that will work


----------



## charliebrown

Hey guys how can I stop my card from sagging I know the ek block is kinda heavy I have my thumb screws in you guys think once I add my acrylic tube it might pull it up a little


----------



## phallacy

My nearly completed STH10 Quad 290x build

Still have to work on wire management, and new matching scheme sleeved cables. But for now, very relieved that I can start using it.


----------



## skupples

Very nice! gives me faith that i'll be able to shove a PSU behind my bottom 360.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys how can I stop my card from sagging I know the ek block is kinda heavy I have my thumb screws in you guys think once I add my acrylic tube it might pull it up a little


Almost all cards will sag given the weight of a waterblock on them. You'll be able to easily mitigate this though by your tubing giving support to the card if you properly measure it out. Like my GTX classy will sag like none other given the size/weight of the card/block, but my tubing that comes from my top radiator to the card easily supports it into a proper form.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys how can I stop my card from sagging I know the ek block is kinda heavy I have my thumb screws in you guys think once I add my acrylic tube it might pull it up a little


GPU Backplate to suit your card will take out the sag provided everything is secure and in order at the case slot end.

Please do not rely on the acrylic to pull up the card, it will only end in tears.
However a straight vertical tube underneath would be OK to push up, assisting to keep the card level.

If you decide to go with a backplate, postpone doing the acrylic lines until you have it installed, as obviously the lengths of acrylic would be slightly different.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Almost all cards will sag given the weight of a waterblock on them. You'll be able to easily mitigate this though by your tubing giving support to the card if you properly measure it out. Like my GTX classy will sag like none other given the size/weight of the card/block, but my tubing that comes from my top radiator to the card easily supports it into a proper form.


Not to mention that back plates pretty much exist for the soul purpose of preventing warping.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> GPU Backplate to suit your card will take out the sag provided everything is secure and in order at the case slot end.
> 
> Please do not rely on the acrylic to pull up the card, it will only end in tears.
> However a straight vertical tube underneath would be OK to push up, assisting to keep the card level.
> 
> If you decide to go with a backplate, postpone doing the acrylic lines until you have it installed, as obviously the lengths of acrylic would be slightly different.


Oh silly me. I thought he was referring to the GPU sagging in the PCIe slot. You are completely correct now that I looked at his photo more closely. Yeah, his card is in dire need of a backplate. They really do make a world of difference in GPU sag/warping.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phallacy*
> 
> My nearly completed STH10 Quad 290x build
> 
> Still have to work on wire management, and new matching scheme sleeved cables. But for now, very relieved that I can start using it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice rig. I would flip your front rad so the inlet/outlet are on the bottom, and maybe run the right side blue tube down and under instead of up and over if you can?

I know there are conflicting opinions and some people say it can trap air bubbles up top on certain rads and take longer to bleed, but It would clean up your tubing a ton by getting rid of all three of those long vertical tubes. I've run my rads like that for years with no issues...personally I think even if it does take a bit longer to bleed, the visual improvement would be worth it







.

FWIW it depends on the rad design. My old swiftech MCP-320 triple would catch bubbles on the top so I just bleed it horizontally then lifted into position. My AMS 280 on my GPU loop has no issues at all though and bleeds itself almost instantly. Never tried with my Gen2 GTX 480's...they are way too long to mount vertically anyway lmao.


----------



## skupples

This is why Bleed caps exist.









I have me front 480 facing down, but only because i'm going for ultra minimalist tube exposure. You are only going to see ~8 inches of tubing, with all runs vertical (except GPU to south bridge block)


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Oh silly me. I thought he was referring to the GPU sagging in the PCIe slot. You are completely correct now that I looked at his photo more closely. Yeah, his card is in dire need of a backplate. They really do make a world of difference in GPU sag/warping.


Even before the block it sagged in the pci slot with a backplate it does not fit now waterblock took all the holes

One more question what's the best way to clean acrylic after you bend it soap not water then a distilled rinse or something else


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Even before the block it sagged in the pci slot with a backplate it does not fit now waterblock took all the holes
> 
> One more question what's the best way to clean acrylic after you bend it soap not water then a distilled rinse or something else


The back plate screws normally pass through the card into the waterblock. My EK blocks have something like 5 screws that go into the card, more if you have a full cover block.

Edit: You have an EK block, this means that an EK back plate should be 100% compatible. Other back plates are also compatible, but may take a bit of modding/different screws.


----------



## charliebrown

All the screws on the backplate are taken up by the block except for the ends plus it has rivet screw holes it's a Asus 770


----------



## kpoeticg

The screws should hold together the Block, Card, and Backplate. The screw holes are in the same place because a screw should be passing through the hole on all 3 of them


----------



## charliebrown

Lol ohhhhhhh


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## charliebrown

Nope didn't work rivets in the way I'll just have to see where to get one


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the EK Block and the EK Backplate are made to be screwed into each other. Just like all other companies that release blocks + backplates. You'll have to download the PDF for the EK backplate, or ask in the EK thread maybe. Figure out what the difference is between the EK and yours and compensate for the difference

What backplate is that? Is it a coldzero or evga? I can't tell. It should be simple enough to figure it out tho. The backplate is meant to be connected the block with the card sandwiched in the middle


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just got this from PPCS, happy Mommy's day.
> 
> Happy Mother's Day with some more great savings from Performance-PCs!
> View this email in your browser
> 
> Performance-PCs.com and it staff would like to wish all our customers and their families a Happy upcoming Mothers Day!! Please enjoy a nice discount off selected products on our website!
> 
> Tell Mom to enter during checkout:
> 
> Spend $50-$500, get 8% off: "MOTHER14-8"
> Spend $500-1000, get 9% off: "MOTHER14-9"
> Spend over $1000, get 10% off: "MOTHER14-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from May 2nd through May 11th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


Thank you!!
I came back to this thread simply to look for the old forum discount code, this one is much better!
BTW, you should come bye and check out our booth @ the LA show (Pomona Fairplex) some time considering it's not too far down the 60 from ya







. Would be nice to meet another forum member/enthusiast from here (Have met TONS from the NV forums over the years)
Thanks again bro!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What backplate is that? Is it a coldzero or evga? I can't tell. It should be simple enough to figure it out tho. The backplate is meant to be connected the block with the card sandwiched in the middle


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> All the screws on the backplate are taken up by the block except for the ends plus it has rivet screw holes it's a Asus 770


its an asus backplate.


----------



## charliebrown

Yes


----------



## sperson1

hey everyone hows it going this is my first ever build and attempt at water cooling


----------



## Pimphare

@sperson1

Great job! I like the photon res/pump combo. Welcome to the wonderful world of water cooling!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Think I got my tube routing figure out... Please critique
> 
> Out of pump, down to bottom radiator, which flows into the front 480, out of the front 480 into the graphics cards, through the board, up into the top 2x 480s, then out of the back panel into the reservoir. It sounds nice, but i'm not sure if i'll be able to pull it off w/ soft tube. The main runs i'm worried about are: pump >> pass through & back panel into reservoir. Worst case scenario with the reservoir is that I can't affix it to the case.
> 
> oh, and I found this on google... Why does STREN Have Derick's orange monster?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Shh this is how rumors are started  this photo is from my road trip visit to Stren in Oct 2012.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Pneumatic push fittings are cheap as all getout.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853
> 
> $2.30 a piece. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay more secure than any of the rigid line fittings too. I'm fairly certain that it could hold my body weight if I were to hang on one.
> 
> I think they look quite lovely:


Love this


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Shh this is how rumors are started
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this photo is from my road trip visit to Stren in Oct 2012.
> 
> Love this


Did you take a semi-truck for your road trip?


----------



## derickwm

Honda Civic Coupe. It was quite the adventure.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Honda Civic Coupe. It was quite the adventure.


so you only took 1 change of clothes, got it. I don't think I could shove the STH-10 into my Mazda 6, or even my 2005 CTS.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Honda Civic Coupe. It was quite the adventure.


That Civic must've been biggg!

Anyways i managed to get my 4670k to 4.6GHZ @1.405V stable on my watercooling loop!


----------



## derickwm

At one point we fit in the STH10, TJ07, SM5, SM8 and ST10. Still had suitcase filled with clothes too


----------



## skupples




----------



## peterpan

Ok so I'm doing acrylic for my build what's the way to go to clean all the excess flakes same as cleaning a rad or something different


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I have a discount code to pass along as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rocket Science have activated *fastfate0105* to receive *free shipping on orders over $50*
> It is definitely valid for all Australian residents and waiting on confirmation that it is good for overseas buyers.
> EDIT - *just got confirmation that the code is good for FREE shipping worldwide*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1/2" OD fittings designed for copper that work perfect with 1/2" OD acrylic tube also.
> They're awaiting arrival of black nickel batch.
> The silver nickel is in stock (which is what I got) look sensational and will be using them in my S_alive_8 build.


This is amazing! How long will the free shipping be valid for? Thanks for the heads up! Repping you.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> At one point we fit in the STH10, TJ07, SM5, SM8 and ST10. Still had suitcase filled with clothes too


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Steam has a wallet giveaway!

http://steam-wallet-cards.com/?click=7a3978


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Steam has a wallet giveaway!
> 
> http://steam-wallet-cards.com/?click=7a3978


That's kind of cheap, you owe me http://steam-wallet-cards.com/?click=89a2a1


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Steam has a wallet giveaway!
> 
> http://steam-wallet-cards.com/?click=7a3978


You owe me too









http://steam-wallet-cards.com/?click=1412a4


----------



## morencyam

Let's start a thread for everyone to post their links so we can all click on each other's links


----------



## skupples

Steam Wallet Give Away click-O-Thon


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Let's start a thread for everyone to post their links so we can all click on each other's links


omg we should, infinite steam cards! I'm at 9 clicks myself


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> This is amazing! How long will the free shipping be valid for? Thanks for the heads up! Repping you.


Indefinately - OR until advised otherwise


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Steam has a wallet giveaway!
> 
> http://steam-wallet-cards.com/?click=7a3978


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> That's kind of cheap, you owe me http://steam-wallet-cards.com/?click=89a2a1


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> You owe me too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://steam-wallet-cards.com/?click=1412a4


You all owe me! http://steam-wallet-cards.com/?click=6969f1


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Post them in the official thread, not here


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Indefinately - OR until advised otherwise


Awesome! I'm heavily leaning toward acrylic and don't want to skimp on the fittings. You're obviously a big fan and I take your opinion quite seriously!


----------



## Wolfsbora

I just looked at the bottom of the page to read the sneaky fine print of the Steam Wallet giveaway:
Quote:


> © 2014 steam-wallet-cards.com All rights reserved. All trademarks are property of their respective owners in the US and other countries.
> This website is not affiliated in any way with Valve Corporation or any of their partners.


If it isn't Valve, who is it?


----------



## skupples

Steam Wallet give away is a scam.


----------



## Wihglah

OK - opinions please:

Do you prefer LEDs on Red or White?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> OK - opinions please:
> 
> Do you prefer LEDs on Red or White?


White







It gives a better view of the parts.


----------



## skupples

Definitely white. Helps to contrast the red everything else.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> OK - opinions please:
> 
> Do you prefer LEDs on Red or White?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The white! You're giving me some great ideas for my own build. Btw, I like the panels of your case in red. Looks good.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Steam Wallet give away is a scam.


This
Damn it......


----------



## iBored

Does anyone know if the Monsoon chrome angle fitting goes with the bitspower enhanced acrylic fitting?

Pictures would help. Thanks in advance!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This
> Damn it......
































Starting to look like a real computer! Now I just need to drill the pass through holes in the top of the case, which is just a tad bit more challenging due to quite minimal margin of error & the holes falling on the seams between the chassis and the 120.1 holes.

huh... think my lens was a bit dirty. owellz.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to look like a real computer! Now I just need to drill the pass through holes in the top of the case, which is just a tad bit more challenging due to quite minimal margin of error & the holes falling on the seams between the chassis and the 120.1 holes.
> 
> huh... think my lens was a bit dirty. owellz.


Looks damn good! You must tell me where you acquired that delicious SLI bridge...


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

here's some pics of my rig. Someday...someday i will get a full size motherboard that will match my color scheme...and when i do, i will clean up the case and make it look pretty


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Looks damn good! You must tell me where you acquired that delicious SLI bridge...


Looks like the work of Coldzero ...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Looks damn good! You must tell me where you acquired that delicious SLI bridge...


It's the standard Bitspower SLI Fittings

The one i'm using is the (41-69mm) size. It is a place holder while I wait on my 3rd GPU to come back from RMA land. The size needed for tri-sli on standard format are the (21-33mm)


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's the standard Bitspower SLI Fittings
> 
> The one i'm using is the (41-69mm) size. It is a place holder while I wait on my 3rd GPU to come back from RMA land. The size needed for tri-sli on standard format are the (21-33mm)


How about the EVGA SLI connector?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> How about the EVGA SLI connector?


Ahh, that one is ColdZero.


----------



## VSG

Pretty sure he is referring to your ColdZero EVGA SLI bridge.

Edit: Double ninja'd


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pretty sure he is referring to your ColdZero EVGA SLI bridge.
> 
> Edit: Double ninja'd












I was thinking about asking cold zero to make white inserts for it.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like the work of Coldzero ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pretty sure he is referring to your ColdZero EVGA SLI bridge.
> 
> Edit: Double ninja'd


Boom. I like their work. Do they ship to the US? I'd like a few things done.


----------



## VSG

Ya, Patuga is a great guy and recently has started offering cheaper international shipping as well. Look up the ColdZero Facebook group, he is very active there.


----------



## peterpan

Ok guys really need some help cleaning this acrylic with the dust from sanding


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, Patuga is a great guy and recently has started offering cheaper international shipping as well. Look up the ColdZero Facebook group, he is very active there.


Great, thanks for the tip! Throwing some rep your way.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterpan*
> 
> 
> 
> Ok guys really need some help cleaning this acrylic with the dust from sanding


We use a cloth tied in the center of a string and pull it back and forth with your fav cleaner shiner or plastic x on it. Make sure the cloth it a snug fit though.


----------



## Remizon

My Node 304













Specs:
Case: Fractal Design Node 304
PSU: Silverstone ST65F-G 650W (Short cable kit)
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus VI Impact
CPU: Intel Core i5 4670K
GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 780 (Referens)
Memory: G.Skill Ares 1600Mhz 2x8GB
SSD: Samsung EVO 256GB
HDD: 320GB 5400RPM

Watercooling:
CPU block: Swiftech Apogee HD
GPU block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti
Pump: Alphacool DC-LT Combo
Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 19/13mm
Radiators: Magicool 140mm, modded 2x92mm radiator from Aliexpress.com


----------



## peterpan

Great thanks


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*
> 
> My Node 304
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome little rig you have there! Specs?


----------



## montyman03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, Patuga is a great guy and recently has started offering cheaper international shipping as well. Look up the ColdZero Facebook group, he is very active there.


Looks like the shipping has gone up since the last time I ordered something..


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*
> 
> My Node 304


super clean. nice work!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *montyman03*
> 
> Looks like the shipping has gone up since the last time I ordered something..


It depends on country and weight of course, but I tried out a sample item and shipping would have been less for me in the US than 3 months ago for example.


----------



## montyman03

Too weird, Had ordered several things back in January here to the states, and ordering only the motherboard tray its 5 euro more to ship. Will have to hit him up about it.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It depends on country and weight of course, but I tried out a sample item and shipping would have been less for me in the US than 3 months ago for example.


Any recommendations on places in the US that do custom fab like that? Quality preferred, of course.


----------



## montyman03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Any recommendations on places in the US that do custom fab like that? Quality preferred, of course.


You can hit up LaBestiaHumana on here. He does great work on the same panel types.


----------



## Remizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Awesome little rig you have there! Specs?


Thanks man!

Case: Fractal Design Node 304
PSU: Silverstone ST65F-G 650W (Med kort och platt kabel kit)
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus VI Impact
CPU: Intel Core i5 4670K
GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 780 (Referens)
Memory: G.Skill Ares 1600Mhz 2x8GB
SSD: Samsung EVO 256GB
HDD: 320GB 5400RPM

Watercooling:
CPU block: Swiftech Apogee HD
GPU block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti
Pump: Alphacool DC-LT Combo
Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 19/13mm
Radiators: Magicool 140mm, modded 2x92mm radiator from Aliexpress.com


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*
> 
> Case: Fractal Design Node 304
> PSU: Silverstone ST65F-G 650W (Med kort och platt kabel kit)
> Motherboard: ASUS Maximus VI Impact
> CPU: Intel Core i5 4670K
> GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 780 (Referens)
> Memory: G.Skill Ares 1600Mhz 2x8GB
> SSD: Samsung EVO 256GB
> HDD: 320GB 5400RPM
> 
> Watercooling:
> CPU block: Swiftech Apogee HD
> GPU block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti
> Pump: Alphacool DC-LT Combo
> Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 19/13mm
> Radiators: Magicool 140mm, modded 2x92mm radiator from Aliexpress.com


This may be one of my favorite builds on here because of the straight forward, compact, clean design!


----------



## skupples

OK, need some help. Which fittings look the best? (going into the top chamber of the case)


----------



## montyman03

Personally like the SLI fitting. Matches the others being used on the cpu and board blocks, but the extender looks pretty good too.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> OK, need some help. Which fittings look the best? (going into the top chamber of the case)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think the bottom photo looks the best with those fittings.


----------



## Pimphare

@skupples
Id probably go with option 3. Looks the cleanest imo.


----------



## skupples

Thanks folks, I was hoping to squeeze some white tube in there, but the space is just too damned small. Think I need a bigger case...


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> OK, need some help. Which fittings look the best? (going into the top chamber of the case)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Easily option 3. Uniform diameter fitting blends in with the other fittings used. Overall a much cleaner look.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I am with everyone else here and think the last option looks great there.


----------



## Remizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Awesome little rig you have there! Specs?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> super clean. nice work!


Thanks!!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks folks, I was hoping to squeeze some white tube in there, but the space is just too damned small. Think I need a bigger case...


Do you have a 45 degree fitting? I think a 45 coming off of the mosfet block followed by white tubing going to the top would look nice.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks folks, I was hoping to squeeze some white tube in there, but the space is just too damned small. Think I need a bigger case...


*Sniff Sniff* I smell a Haf Stacker coming....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> *Sniff Sniff* I smell a Haf Stacker coming....


Why would he go to a smaller case than the one he is already using? The STH10 is bigger than the Haf Stacker. Lol.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Why would he go to a smaller case than the one he is already using? The STH10 is bigger than the Haf Stacker. Lol.


Oh my bad, didn't realize he had an STH10 lol


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Oh my bad, didn't realize he had an STH10 lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sausage tube....oh dear....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sausage tube....oh dear....



















The re-re-re-build will be hard line, I swears its. Already working on my bending skills w/ copper, going to go with nickel plated I believe. I rarely bend flex to anyways, so figure why the hell am I still using it.

As to the 45 degree... I'm attempting to stick with all vertical runs for the visible sections of tubing.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks folks, I was hoping to squeeze some white tube in there, but the space is just too damned small. Think I need a bigger case...


Third for sure!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> *Sniff Sniff* I smell a Haf Stacker coming....


I'm sorry, but I think the HAF Stacker is ugly as sin. I was never a fan of any of the HAF cases though


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm sorry, but I think the HAF Stacker is ugly as sin. I was never a fan of any of the HAF cases though










jk


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> *Sniff Sniff* I smell a Haf Stacker coming....
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, but I think the HAF Stacker is ugly as sin. I was never a fan of any of the HAF cases though
Click to expand...

+1

Fugly....so so fugly.....


----------



## skupples

but that price to performance size ratio!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1
> 
> Fugly....so so fugly.....


Those modular chambers just look so out of place. Like someone just saw a CaseLabs with pedestals and tried to cheaply copy it by just putting a small case on top. The CaseLabs Pedestals actually look like they belong on the case


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Those modular chambers just look so out of place. Like someone just saw a CaseLabs with pedestals and tried to cheaply copy it by just putting a small case on top. The CaseLabs Pedestals actually look like they belong on the case


Perfect description.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Those modular chambers just look so out of place. Like someone just saw a CaseLabs with pedestals and tried to cheaply copy it by just putting a small case on top. The CaseLabs Pedestals actually look like they belong on the case


While I love all 4 of my CL cases, IMHO I personally think that pedestals look like a hemroid that needs to be lanced. To me, it's like whoever bought the case didn't realize everything wouldn't fit, so they just added to it, instead of getting the correct size case in the first place. And again, this is just my personal opinion.

Edit: Let the flaming ensue.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Those modular chambers just look so out of place. Like someone just saw a CaseLabs with pedestals and tried to cheaply copy it by just putting a small case on top. The CaseLabs Pedestals actually look like they belong on the case
> 
> 
> 
> While I love all 4 of my CL cases, IMHO I personally think that pedestals look like a hemroid that needs to be lanced. To me, it's like whoever bought the case didn't realize everything wouldn't fit, so they just added to it, instead of getting the correct size case in the first place. And again, this is just my personal opinion.
> 
> Edit: Let the flaming ensue.
Click to expand...

Im in agreement,I wish I hadnt bothered with my pedestal.....to change over now tho will be a right pain..


----------



## Wihglah

CL are awesome - but then they had better be, an ST10 is 3 times the cost of a HAF Stacker!

For a ratio of price against any characteristic, the stacker wins.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> CL are awesome - but then they had better be, an ST10 is 3 times the cost of a HAF Stacker!
> 
> For a ratio of price against any characteristic, the stacker wins.


Yay a brother!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> CL are awesome - but then they had better be, an ST10 is 3 times the cost of a HAF Stacker!
> 
> For a ratio of price against any characteristic, the stacker wins.


Or if you're really concerned with prices you can build a pc inside of a cardboard box! I actually seen this somewhere on here recently. Lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> CL are awesome - but then they had better be, an ST10 is 3 times the cost of a HAF Stacker!
> 
> For a ratio of price against any characteristic, the stacker wins.


Except aesthetics.....


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Or if you're really concerned with prices you can build a pc inside of a cardboard box! I actually seen this somewhere on here recently. Lol


not everyone has an infinite budget.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Except aesthetics.....


Meh - if you say so.


----------



## Blackspots

Does this look like a good setup for custom water cooling?


Will be eventually buying a Corsair Carbide 540 case, Asus Maximus VI Impact mITX board, and Intel Core i7 4770K, and in the mean time, either a Corsair Hydro series H100i or Enermax Liqtech 240 (it has a superior CPU mounting system over the Corsair)

Oh, yeah, almost forgot about the fans, probably a couple of these fans Cougar CF-V14HB, 70CFM @ 19.2dB


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> not everyone has an infinite budget.


I understand. I was just pokin fun. I wish I had one of those budgets.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Does this look like a good setup for custom water cooling?
> 
> 
> Will be eventually buying a Corsair Carbide 540 case, Asus Maximus VI Impact mITX board, and Intel Core i7 4770K, and in the mean time, either a Corsair Hydro series H100i or Enermax Liqtech 240 (it has a superior CPU mounting system over the Corsair)
> 
> Oh, yeah, almost forgot about the fans, probably a couple of these fans Cougar CF-V14HB, 70CFM @ 19.2dB


Where are the fittings? I don't see barbs or compression fittings...


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Where are the fittings? I don't see barbs or compression fittings...


See the second item to the bottom? That's the compression fittings. The pages for the radiator, CPU block and reservoir have options for the barbs (look closer, I'm using 1/2" barbs). The pump already has barbs on it.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> OK, need some help. Which fittings look the best? (going into the top chamber of the case)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Definitely number 3, where did you find that SLI Bridge though? That is nice. (or is it just a cover?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks folks, I was hoping to squeeze some white tube in there, but the space is just too damned small. Think I need a bigger case...


I will take that one, because this is exactly what I wanted to do for my next build. i would also love to use 2 res X3 with multiport tops, and run all tubing in from the back side of the case, to hide any tube in or out, and then have them reappear to go into the pumps and immediately back into the case. I love how it looks so far. Can't wait to see the rest.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Easily option 3. Uniform diameter fitting blends in with the other fittings used. Overall a much cleaner look.


Agreed!


----------



## Noxide400

This is my old school rig of 6 years.









Mobo: EVGA 780i modded for LGA771
RAM: Corsair Dominator 1066Mhz
CPU: Xeon X5470 @4.2GHz
GPU: EVGA 780 Ti @ Core: 1.4GHz MEM: 3.8GHz
PSU: Corsair 1100Watt
Black Extreme 3x120mm Radiator w/speed controlled fans
Case: Silver Stone TJ-06


----------



## fakeblood

Does this look sufficiently cooled?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Definitely number 3, where did you find that SLI Bridge though? That is nice. (or is it just a cover?)
> I will take that one, because this is exactly what I wanted to do for my next build. i would also love to use 2 res X3 with multiport tops, and run all tubing in from the back side of the case, to hide any tube in or out, and then have them reappear to go into the pumps and immediately back into the case. I love how it looks so far. Can't wait to see the rest.
> Agreed!


The cover is from ColdZero over in the EU. It is just a cover, you have to glue in on.

I went with #3, also followed similar suit for the tube into the res.



floating reservoir looks allot better than the labyrinth of snaking tube I would have had to use if I screwed it into the case.

just a weeee bit blurry, didn't have the camera on the tripod.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Does this look sufficiently cooled?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not really. Missing res and pump. Lol


----------



## skupples

I love the black Typhoon look. I may have to dabble in that down the road.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> See the second item to the bottom? That's the compression fittings. The pages for the radiator, CPU block and reservoir have options for the barbs (look closer, I'm using 1/2" barbs). The pump already has barbs on it.


No, that isn't a compression anything.. That is a hose clamp. Look up what a compression fitting is. Thought that if you selected the barb you want it would show in the check out. I will look again when I get back to my PC.

*edit* got it. I see the addition under where it shows the barbs now  Couldn't see the picture on my phone.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Not really. Missing res and pump. Lol










sensai says must be watercooled.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The cover is from ColdZero over in the EU. It is just a cover, you have to glue in on.
> 
> I went with #3, also followed similar suit for the tube into the res.
> 
> 
> 
> floating reservoir looks allot better than the labyrinth of snaking tube I would have had to use if I screwed it into the case.
> 
> just a weeee bit blurry, didn't have the camera on the tripod.


Hey Skupples, why are your front fans set as exhausts? Just curious is all.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Not really. Missing res and pump. Lol


Hehe, pump is installed behind bottom rad. And res will go in once I make passthrough hole.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Hehe, pump is installed behind bottom rad. And res will go in once I make passthrough hole.


Is the Air cooler just temporary? If so, then lol


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Not really. Missing res and pump. Lol


Agree,
Also missing tubes, CPU block, GPU block and coolant.

All kidding aside, what are you cooling? CPU and GPU? what radiator is that? are you gonna OC CPU / GPU?

*Edit
Just noticed the radiator in the top (hard to see everything in the pic







)
Answer: Yes.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey Skupples, why are your front fans set as exhausts? Just curious is all.


Mostly Aesthetics.







and I never really liked the idea of bathing the CPU chamber w/ radiator wash.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Is the Air cooler just temporary? If so, then lol


Yeah have had the mono tray just on my desk air cooled. Threw it in the case to make up custom cable lengths.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Agree,
> Also missing tubes, CPU block, GPU block and coolant.
> 
> All kidding aside, what are you cooling? CPU and GPU? what radiator is that? are you gonna OC CPU / GPU?
> 
> *Edit
> Just noticed the radiator in the top (hard to see everything in the pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Answer: Yes.


Yeah just GPU and CPU at this stage. Have CPU @ 4.3 on air so will bump that up. Rads are AX480 down bottom and PE480 up top. Yeah sorry bout the photo. Crappy mobile photo and just used ocn uploader


----------



## Michalius

Redid some of my pipe runs to clean it up, namely the res/pump to GPU.

Before:



After:





Also a significant GPU upgrade from the Matrix 7970:



780 Ti Classy Kingpin


----------



## charliebrown

Here is what I got so far first time watercooling and bending acrylic got one flat spot on the bottom bend going in the rad but I can live with it what do you guys think


----------



## morencyam

I really like that so far charlie. Not really a fan of red themed builds because red is so overpowering, but there is a very nice balance. What color coolant are you planning on using?


----------



## charliebrown

Mayhem pastel red with white revolver fittings


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got so far first time watercooling and bending acrylic got one flat spot on the bottom bend going in the rad but I can live with it what do you guys think


Awfully blurry picture, but looks nice!
Did you bend it freehanded? or around something? did you use an insert?
too bad about that one bend :/ no acrylic left for a redo?
Looks nice for a first timer, really good job


----------



## morencyam

I think that'll look really nice. And it looks like you are using white lighting? Good choice. Colored lighting just tends to wash out everything.


----------



## charliebrown

All freehand I'll redo later tonight I bought 12ft took pic from my phone the insert I got from mcmaster along with the acrylic


----------



## charliebrown

White lighting white fittings will mix well with all the red thanks for the compliment guys


----------



## mrlance

Hey can I join the club? EVGA gtx 780 classy under water


----------



## Ragsters

Bitspower silver shiny, single rotary 90 degree adapter sold out everywhere! Can someone help me?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrlance*
> 
> Hey can I join the club? EVGA gtx 780 classy under water


....but the cpu...it requires cooling....


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Redid some of my pipe runs to clean it up, namely the res/pump to GPU.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a significant GPU upgrade from the Matrix 7970:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 780 Ti Classy Kingpin


Really nicely done Michalius. One of the biggest inspirations on my own Case Labs build.


----------



## mrlance

But I didn't want the cpu cooled , it's fine with the noctua at 4.75. The biggy was my gfx card


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Bitspower silver shiny, single rotary 90 degree adapter sold out everywhere. Can someone help me?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Bitspower silver shiny, single rotary 90 degree adapter
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/


----------



## GaMbi2004

yea, that is one serious air cooler! and I bet the fans are nice and quiet too.
Just unusual to see a GFX being cooled by a costume loop without the CPU under water too









How much rad space do you have? 240 in the top is all?
In that case, I wouldnt put CPU under water ether


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Bitspower silver shiny, single rotary 90 degree adapter sold out everywhere. Can someone help me?


I don't even see any on eBay. A Barrow fittings might work as a substitute.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> ....but the cpu...it requires cooling....


Lol, he did it right, GPUs need liquid way more than CPUs do, and if he decides to add the CPU, it's easy. But keeping that GPU cool is paramount!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Bitspower silver shiny, single rotary 90 degree adapter
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't find them in stock there either. Even if I did I wouldn't get it from there. I need a US site.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I don't even see any on eBay. A Barrow fittings might work as a substitute.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have all bitspower but maybe on my next build. Thanks for the link though. Place looks great!
Click to expand...


----------



## charliebrown

I need some to can't find any either


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Bitspower silver shiny, single rotary 90 degree adapter sold out everywhere! Can someone help me?


Maybe try this? It has dang near the same profile as the single rotary 90. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31318


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I don't even see any on eBay. A Barrow fittings might work as a substitute.


I find it funny that stores are putting the Barrow fittings at a higher price than the BP fittings...... Well, some stores.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Maybe try this? It has dang near the same profile as the single rotary 90. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31318


I was looking at that but the $5 difference in price is killer. I need like 4 of them and $20 is $20. Thanks though!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I was looking at that but the $5 difference in price is killer. I need like 4 of them and $20 is $20. Thanks though!


Yeah, I figured as much, but I did post an 8% coupon for PPCS earlier today in this thread!!


----------



## caraboose

Figured I'd update my post, seeing as how Photobucket took all my old ones down.


This is just temporary until I can get a few bucks saved up for a new radiator, cpu block and copper fittings.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> No, that isn't a compression anything.. That is a hose clamp. Look up what a compression fitting is. Thought that if you selected the barb you want it would show in the check out. I will look again when I get back to my PC.
> 
> *edit* got it. I see the addition under where it shows the barbs now  Couldn't see the picture on my phone.


So, is a compression fitting better than a clamp?


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I was looking at that but the $5 difference in price is killer. I need like 4 of them and $20 is $20. Thanks though!


I found some on ebay but I think they are off brand I may pick up 2 but kind of skeptical of quality


----------



## skupples

Remember when you would order this stuff & it would show up caked in dust? Now the good stuff sells out near instantly after each shipment.


----------



## sniperpowa

Just finished my loop I just need to clean up the wiring.


----------



## skupples

Just dropped a huge update in my build log if anyone is interested, click Here


----------



## Pimphare

*"Lol, he did it right, GPUs need liquid way more than CPUs do, and if he decides to add the CPU, it's easy. But keeping that GPU cool is paramount!"*

I have to agree with *Jimhans1* here. My 3570k @4.4ghz didn't go past 60's C during IBM or P95. That was with a massive CM V8 heatsink. My reference GTX 760s @ stock everything on the other hand would shoot up to the mid/high 70s C during Valley with the blower fans crankin'.

Added some water cooling to the mix and roughly cut my gpu temps in half. And the performance gain is rock solid. Gotta love that gpu boost 2.0.







I don't believe I was boosting before I dropped water on the cards. I did add a block to the cpu as well but it wasn't so much of a necessity. Still rockin' the same 1ghz cpu overclock also with a 20-25 C temp drop however.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> While I love all 4 of my CL cases, IMHO I personally think that pedestals look like a hemroid that needs to be lanced. To me, it's like whoever bought the case didn't realize everything wouldn't fit, so they just added to it, instead of getting the correct size case in the first place. And again, this is just my personal opinion.
> 
> Edit: Let the flaming ensue.


I agree. IMO the only reason for a pedestal is if its totally full of more exotic hardware like compressors for phase or an array of chillers. Then again, I am a bit spoiled since I have a monstrous custom case that gives me more room just for cooling then most have for their whole rig lol. Two horizontal sections so top with windows is relatively clean while the bottom that you cant see into has all the ugly stuff - two PSU's, two 480s rads, a 280 rad, two out of 3 of my pumps, a couple 3-pin buses for fans, tons of braided cable extensions, etc.

Ideally a case would be spec'd for whats going into it, but I understand that people may upgrade over time and need more space without wanting to buy a new case...I rocked an ancient eATX Chenming server tower for almost a decade because it had plenty of room, but was so old I had to make the 120mm mounts and rad points myself since it was from the 80mm/92mm case fan days. It ended up being an over crowded mess and I WISHED I had a pedestal for it







.


----------



## skupples

I would love to run a chiller,(or even just hookup an aquarium chiller) but I have a feeling they wouldn't play nice with my Floridian Ambients. I would have to insulate everything.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Bitspower silver shiny, single rotary 90 degree adapter sold out everywhere! Can someone help me?


https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/g1_4_90_degree_rotary_ig_1_4_adapter_extender_-_silver/

Always in stock at DazMode, I ordered those specifically from there for my last two builds because nobody else ever has them


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> So, is a compression fitting better than a clamp?


Basically, a compression fitting has its own clamo built in. It depends on which look you like the most really.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*
> 
> My Node 304
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Case: Fractal Design Node 304
> PSU: Silverstone ST65F-G 650W (Short cable kit)
> Motherboard: ASUS Maximus VI Impact
> CPU: Intel Core i5 4670K
> GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 780 (Referens)
> Memory: G.Skill Ares 1600Mhz 2x8GB
> SSD: Samsung EVO 256GB
> HDD: 320GB 5400RPM
> 
> Watercooling:
> CPU block: Swiftech Apogee HD
> GPU block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti
> Pump: Alphacool DC-LT Combo
> Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 19/13mm
> Radiators: Magicool 140mm, modded 2x92mm radiator from Aliexpress.com


Very nice. Watercooled SFF builds like that always impress me.

From what I can see in those pics it looks like you might actually have enough room for push-pull on those rads also. No?


----------



## Noviets

Hey guys not sure where to post this, I got two of the Swifttech 30cm Cold Cathode UV bars, and one of them flickers a little, its not like a strobe or anything, more like a flame.

I have it mounted vertically, are they okay to do that? The one I have mounted horizontal doesnt seem to do it.

Any ideas?

I took a short video if you would like me to upload it.


----------



## Remizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Very nice. Watercooled SFF builds like that always impress me.
> 
> From what I can see in those pics it looks like you might actually have enough room for push-pull on those rads also. No?


Yepp there is enough room for that


----------



## Shadow134

Hey guys. I have put together a build sheet for a full watercooling loop and due to my inexperience with full loops, could anyone assist me and tell me if the parts I have selected are compatible and if I'm not missing anything? Thanks in advance

Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual)

Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)

Fittings: EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 -Black Nickel (x10)

Tubing: TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 12,7 / 9,5mm - Crystal Clear (PFLEXA-12) (x3)

Accessories: EK-DCP mounting plate KIT

Reservoir: EK-RES X3 110

Pump: EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC Pump)

GPU Accessories: EK-FC780 GTX Ti Backplate - Black (x2)

GPU Block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal (x2)

CPU Block: EK-Supremacy - Acetal

Liquid Coolant: EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE (premix 1000mL)

Radiator Fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition CO-9050002-WW 120mm Twin Pack High Airflow Case Fan (x4)

Grand Total $ 899.69


----------



## VSG

Switch out the AF fans for more static pressure oriented ones. If you want to go Corsair, go with the SP120 versions.


----------



## phallacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Very nice! gives me faith that i'll be able to shove a PSU behind my bottom 360.


Thanks skupples, and yeah if you plan on putting a big PSU next to a 360, just make sure you connect all the PSU wires first and hold them as far bent as possible to fit a 360 in. That worked for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Nice rig. I would flip your front rad so the inlet/outlet are on the bottom, and maybe run the right side blue tube down and under instead of up and over if you can?
> 
> I know there are conflicting opinions and some people say it can trap air bubbles up top on certain rads and take longer to bleed, but It would clean up your tubing a ton by getting rid of all three of those long vertical tubes. I've run my rads like that for years with no issues...personally I think even if it does take a bit longer to bleed, the visual improvement would be worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> FWIW it depends on the rad design. My old swiftech MCP-320 triple would catch bubbles on the top so I just bleed it horizontally then lifted into position. My AMS 280 on my GPU loop has no issues at all though and bleeds itself almost instantly. Never tried with my Gen2 GTX 480's...they are way too long to mount vertically anyway lmao.


Thanks, these are some good tips and with some maneuvering, I think I can hide most of the left side tubing better. However, I will hold off since I plan on going to x99 and if it only comes out in a few months, I'll hold off to rearrange. Otherwise, I would have to order more mayhems and I really am not in the mood to get back into building so soon after completing.


----------



## skupples

My issue ended up being the length of the BP pass through. Can't fit a 90 in there... Need to check the stores today, maybe one of those newer dual female BP 90s will fit .


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I have a 5mm light in the photon but only the bottom lights up, is that right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


Yep. That's exactly how it's supposed to be.

Not really sure why so many seem to expect the tube to be a uniform glow instead of lit at the bottom and fade out as it goes up. You're definitely not the first I've seen post that they were surprised by that. The fadeaway lighting effect is more pronounced in the 270 than the 170, but that's exactly how it looks in all of XSPC's marketing/advertisement images.

I personally think it looks really good like that, but seems a lot of folks were expecting the inner tube to be a CFL, not a frosted tube with an led in the bottom.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/g1_4_90_degree_rotary_ig_1_4_adapter_extender_-_silver/
> 
> Always in stock at DazMode, I ordered those specifically from there for my last two builds because nobody else ever has them


3 left in stock but I need at least 4.









Edit: Check that. Just 2 left.


----------



## skupples

kinda like when I mentioned AP-15s were on eBay for $15 in this thread. They were all gone near instantly.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Really nicely done Michalius. One of the biggest inspirations on my own Case Labs build.


TYVM!

Should be done soon, finally.


----------



## Noviets

So anyone have advice how I would get my cold cathode switch plus two thermal sensors and a flow sensor displayed?

This is the Cold Cathode with the switch.

Plus I want two temperature screens, flow and ambient temperature. Lastely a Flow sensor aswell.

What's the best way to do it?


----------



## skupples

Anyone happen to have a bitspower non ratory 90 degree male fitting? Trying to find how tall it is. BP/PPC/FCPU dont list measurements on their sites. Probably missed it on Google images because I'm on my phone.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone happen to have a bitspower non ratory 90 degree male fitting? Trying to find how tall it is. BP/PPC/FCPU dont list measurements on their sites. Probably missed it on Google images because I'm on my phone.


Here, is this it?? 
18mm tall, 18mm wide, 5mm of threads.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone happen to have a bitspower non ratory 90 degree male fitting? Trying to find how tall it is. BP/PPC/FCPU dont list measurements on their sites. Probably missed it on Google images because I'm on my phone.


Edit: Silly phone didn't upload picture, Also Ninja'd

This thing? 18mm to the mating surface of the o-ring, 23 mm from the end of the threads.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> kinda like when I mentioned AP-15s were on eBay for $15 in this thread. They were all gone near instantly.


Ap-14's are 25 bucks on amazon. i wish they were cheap like they used to be


----------



## skupples

Thanks guys.... I swear that FCPU image didn't shoe up when I was looking at their site. So it should be about 5-10 mm shorter than the rotary.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks guys.... I swear that FCPU image didn't shoe up when I was looking at their site. So it should be about 5-10 mm shorter than the rotary.


Glad to help skup!
Yeah, you need to click on the "make it bigger" photo button, and then you get to see the rest of the images, since it only shows 4 small previews on the main page.


----------



## Errorist66

Just received my new dual bar reservoir. Really wasn't a good idea to start my Watercooling adventure with a KIT as I have now replaced 90% of the parts. The picture from Dazmode doesn't look 1/2 as good as the real thing.


I started with the XSPC AX360 kit but it camed with a 720 pump. Not enough head pressure to push true 5 block and 3 rad. I have an extra DDC 3.25 since I've put the seconf GPU, 2 extra rads and the Chipset/Mosfet block. If the extra DDC was to stop working, leaving only the 720, the flow would stop.
So not I'll have 2 DDC 3.25 strong pump in series.


----------



## skupples

Must be time for a new phone or to get my eyes checked.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Ap-14's are 25 bucks on amazon. i wish they were cheap like they used to be


Yeah AP-14s were just $15 last week w/ free shipping from two different places, and AP-15s could still be had for $19 with free shipping. I even PM'd Skupples a link on Apr 27 about the time I'd ordered 3 more of them.

Now the AP-15s are gone everywhere that I can find except a few places asking insane prices, like $35 to $60 each.

You can still get AP-14s right now for $16 + shipping from Sidewinder, or Rakuten.com has them for $18 ($10.56 +$7.19 shipping) and aaawave.com has them for $19 + free shipping.

The prices have been going up and availability less every day. For example, aaawave was one that had AP-14s last week for under $15 and now they want $4 more. Who knows what they'll be asking for them by tomorrow or the next day?

Last I heard Nidec said they had no plans to stop making the fans (their website is still pitching the Gentle Typhoon line in their banner), but apparently that hasn't panned out as far as availability. I don't know if it's just that retailers don't know that they now have to purchase bulk quantities from Nidec instead of through Scythe or what the deal is. I tried contacting Nidec Servo to ask about quantities/pricing but they never replied. Perhaps that was because I spoofed the required company name and company address on their contact form? I dunno. I don't know what kind of min quantities they deal with, but I'd definitely be interested in buying 200-500 of their AP-15s or AP-00s right about now.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow134*
> 
> Hey guys. I have put together a build sheet for a full watercooling loop and due to my inexperience with full loops, could anyone assist me and tell me if the parts I have selected are compatible and if I'm not missing anything? Thanks in advance
> 
> Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual)
> 
> Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
> 
> Fittings: EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 -Black Nickel (x10)
> 
> Tubing: TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 12,7 / 9,5mm - Crystal Clear (PFLEXA-12) (x3)
> 
> Accessories: EK-DCP mounting plate KIT
> 
> Reservoir: EK-RES X3 110
> 
> Pump: EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC Pump)
> 
> GPU Accessories: EK-FC780 GTX Ti Backplate - Black (x2)
> 
> GPU Block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal (x2)
> 
> CPU Block: EK-Supremacy - Acetal
> 
> Liquid Coolant: EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE (premix 1000mL)
> 
> Radiator Fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition CO-9050002-WW 120mm Twin Pack High Airflow Case Fan (x4)
> 
> Grand Total $ 899.69


That looks good 

For your first loop a pump/reservoir combo might be easier to setup though.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow134*
> 
> Hey guys. I have put together a build sheet for a full watercooling loop and due to my inexperience with full loops, could anyone assist me and tell me if the parts I have selected are compatible and if I'm not missing anything? Thanks in advance
> 
> Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual)
> 
> Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
> 
> Fittings: EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 -Black Nickel (x10)
> 
> Tubing: TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 12,7 / 9,5mm - Crystal Clear (PFLEXA-12) (x3)
> 
> Accessories: EK-DCP mounting plate KIT
> 
> Reservoir: EK-RES X3 110
> 
> Pump: EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC Pump)
> 
> GPU Accessories: EK-FC780 GTX Ti Backplate - Black (x2)
> 
> GPU Block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal (x2)
> 
> CPU Block: EK-Supremacy - Acetal
> 
> Liquid Coolant: EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE (premix 1000mL)
> 
> Radiator Fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition CO-9050002-WW 120mm Twin Pack High Airflow Case Fan (x4)
> 
> Grand Total $ 899.69


You would need more than 1000ml of coolant or would be very close...


----------



## Shadowline2553

You guys have experience with the Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump? I am looking to replace my XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir for single Laing DDC pump with DazMode STORM DDC 3.2 PWM. I am looking at the Alphacool Repack Dual 5.25" Acrylic Reservoir - Clear to use with the pump... right now the loudest thing in my build is the pump and I would like a pump that I can turn down to virtual silence while maintaining cooling efficiency on my proc and board.


----------



## skupples

anyone know of any flow issues w/ the bitspower stock anti-vortex caps? They seem a bit tiny, the holes are very small, & I can't seem to find any of the larger anti-vortex on PPC, besides the "90 degree inversion fitting"

eh, screw it. i'll just go w/o an anti-vortex fitting. Couldn't find the one i'm looking for, and I had to use PPC because this HAS to be done by Monday due to family coming in.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> anyone know of any flow issues w/ the bitspower stock anti-vortex caps? They seem a bit tiny, the holes are very small, & I can't seem to find any of the larger anti-vortex on PPC, besides the "90 degree inversion fitting"
> 
> eh, screw it. i'll just go w/o an anti-vortex fitting. Couldn't find the one i'm looking for, and I had to use PPC because this HAS to be done by Monday due to family coming in.


I've never had an issue with them, and even though the holes are small, the total area of the holes is equal to the area of a standard fitting, so it shouldn't restrict the flow much if any.

There is also this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_344&products_id=36439


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow134*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys. I have put together a build sheet for a full watercooling loop and due to my inexperience with full loops, could anyone assist me and tell me if the parts I have selected are compatible and if I'm not missing anything? Thanks in advance
> 
> Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual)
> 
> Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
> 
> Fittings: EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 -Black Nickel (x10)
> 
> Tubing: TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 12,7 / 9,5mm - Crystal Clear (PFLEXA-12) (x3)
> 
> Accessories: EK-DCP mounting plate KIT
> 
> Reservoir: EK-RES X3 110
> 
> Pump: EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC Pump)
> 
> GPU Accessories: EK-FC780 GTX Ti Backplate - Black (x2)
> 
> GPU Block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal (x2)
> 
> CPU Block: EK-Supremacy - Acetal
> 
> Liquid Coolant: EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE (premix 1000mL)
> 
> Radiator Fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition CO-9050002-WW 120mm Twin Pack High Airflow Case Fan (x4)
> 
> 
> 
> Grand Total $ 899.69


Please, don't spend $900 on a loop only to have a very weak pump. That pump is not even close to enough for that loop, you really want an EK D5 Vario pump.


----------



## skupples

i'm apparently going blind as I browsed through all the alphacool fittings.


----------



## Jimhans1

It's easier with more eyes, and when it's not "needed". Under the gun folks miss things. I've done it God knows how many times.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yep. That's exactly how it's supposed to be.
> 
> Not really sure why so many seem to expect the tube to be a uniform glow instead of lit at the bottom and fade out as it goes up. You're definitely not the first I've seen post that they were surprised by that. The fadeaway lighting effect is more pronounced in the 270 than the 170, but that's exactly how it looks in all of XSPC's marketing/advertisement images.
> 
> I personally think it looks really good like that, but seems a lot of folks were expecting the inner tube to be a CFL, not a frosted tube with an led in the bottom.


Thanks, I will be happy with that, I was just wondering.


----------



## Ragsters

Just checked with Frozen CPU on the availability of the silver shiny, single rotarty, 90 deg adapters and they said like 3-4 weeks. Thats too long for me. Please help me guys! I need 4.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Starting to rein in the Aquaero tentacle beast....

Its like a 1980's car alarm...it infiltrates the whole loom.....





The wiring is all done bar the flow meter,only the back plate,the last of the plumbing and the last of the hand cut graphics....So close I can taste it.

WHERE IS MY BACKPLATE SHOGGY?!?!

If Magoo craps in your doorway,dont blame me.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just checked with Frozen CPU on the availability of the silver shiny, single rotarty, 90 deg adapters and they said like 3-4 weeks. Thats too long for me. Please help me guys! I need 4.


Hey ragsters, take a look at this: http://m.ebay.com/itm/321276806393 sorry it's the mobile, I'm on my phone at the moment. It's a Barrow, not BP, but they are $4.99ea, I've used the black ones from Barrow, and they are identical to the BP, except that they don't have that but ugly logo on them, which is why I got the Barrows in the first place.


----------



## skupples

I have 2x silver shiny 45s.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just checked with Frozen CPU on the availability of the silver shiny, single rotarty, 90 deg adapters and they said like 3-4 weeks. Thats too long for me. Please help me guys! I need 4.


I have some in my build which I will be taking apart soon to transplant in a different case. If you are willing to replace them when they come back in stock in 3-4 weeks time, you can have 4 of mine (pretty sure I got more). PM me if you are interested.


----------



## dallas1990

I need to decide if I want to water cool a Asus formula mobo iI'm getting soon. Also what color of LEDs to get I got a phantek etho primo case. I'm thinking about red for main window and white for the smaller one.

And is there a easy water temperature gauge for my res. And I have a swiftech d5 pump with adjustable speed but I think its heating up my water. I need to know ifi can cool it better with either fans or something else. Speed is set on 3 out of 5.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> I need to decide if I want to water cool a Asus formula mobo iI'm getting soon. Also what color of LEDs to get I got a phantek etho primo case. I'm thinking about red for main window and white for the smaller one.
> 
> And is there a easy water temperature gauge for my res. And I have a swiftech d5 pump with adjustable speed but I think its heating up my water. I need to know ifi can cool it better with either fans or something else. Speed is set on 3 out of 5.


Water moves so fast that measuring the temp from one area will not be an accurate way to test if it is heating the water. It remains nearly constant throughout the whole loop.

Also, it's not likely heating your water. It's an extremely low wattage device, especially compared to CPUs and GPUs.


----------



## caraboose

Do you guys reckon I could put an i5 750 and hd5770 on a single 120/140mm rad in an FT03-mini, while keeping it fairly quiet? It's just an htpc, nothing more..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caraboose*
> 
> Do you guys reckon I could put an i5 750 and hd5770 on a single 120/140mm rad in an FT03-mini, while keeping it fairly quiet? It's just an htpc, nothing more..


Yup,you will need a thick rad and push/pull tho.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caraboose*
> 
> Do you guys reckon I could put an i5 750 and hd5770 on a single 120/140mm rad in an FT03-mini, while keeping it fairly quiet? It's just an htpc, nothing more..


I had i7-3770K @ 4200MHz and a GTX 660 Ti at reasonable temps in my FT03-mini with just an AX120 rad and fans ~1150rpm. After this screenshot was taken I realised the CPU block wasn't seated properly. Temps after fixing that hovered around 50C for the CPU while folding.


----------



## derickwm

Nice b-


----------



## Jimhans1

Hey Bneg, who you repping for??


----------



## TwistedWinter

am i correct in reading that all in ones are allowed here?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey Bneg, who you repping for??


Right below his username: specialtech.co.uk


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwistedWinter*
> 
> am i correct in reading that all in ones are allowed here?


You mean gateway drugs?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Right below his username: specialtech.co.uk


On my mobile it doesn't show that, so thank you. I appreciate it.


----------



## VSG

Don't mention it, Jim! I turned off mobile versions of most websites on my phone, makes things much easier to navigate around even on a small screen personally.


----------



## TwistedWinter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> You mean gateway drugs?


aha, yes, once i get a better case and budget i will do a loop, but for now, my h80i serves me well


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwistedWinter*
> 
> aha, yes, once i get a better case and budget i will do a loop, but for now, my h80i serves me well


My H80i has done damn well for me! You can check it out where she lives in the build in my sig. I will be replacing her shortly, however, for the lights and dreams of the big Loop City.


----------



## TwistedWinter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> My H80i has done damn well for me! You can check it out where she lives in the build in my sig. I will be replacing her shortly, however, for the lights and dreams of the big Loop City.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















lol http://valid.canardpc.com/0pg11c mines does good, granted thats at idle, with a 23.5c ambient, on quiet mode


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Water moves so fast that measuring the temp from one area will not be an accurate way to test if it is heating the water. It remains nearly constant throughout the whole loop.
> 
> Also, it's not likely heating your water. It's an extremely low wattage device, especially compared to CPUs and GPUs.


ah OK I was thinking about using my stock CPU cooler fan to cool the pump. I try to keep things as cool as possible since my room can get up to 90-100 degrees F


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> ah OK I was thinking about using my stock CPU cooler fan to cool the pump. I try to keep things as cool as possible since my room can get up to *90-100 degrees F*


WTH? Do you live in a dang sauna? That's crazy temps there son!!! It's not the pump heating your water, it's your room, lol.


----------



## VSG

lol his username does have Dallas in it


----------



## dallas1990

I live in Indiana in a house with no ac. Wish my PC acted like a ac lol but my temps are good. CPU is 19-20 c GPU is at 30-32c


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> ah OK I was thinking about using my stock CPU cooler fan to cool the pump. I try to keep things as cool as possible since my room can get up to 90-100 degrees F


And did i hear stock cpu cooler fan ? NOOOOOOOOOOOO. in all seriousness, you should work on chilling that room. the ambient is what is killing your PC


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> I live in Indiana in a house with no ac. Wish my PC acted like a ac lol but my temps are good. CPU is 19-20 c GPU is at 30-32c


Ok.. This is how I understand this.
DDC pumps have a heatsink to cool them down, in some cases with a fan to help them keep cool
the D5 pump is "water cooled" as it does not have a heat sink.. it does indeed heat up the water (not by much)
the D5 pumps are designed to be cooled by the water (and therefore heating the water)
Is the D5 pump hot to the touch? or why do you want a fan on it?
My D5 pump is on setting 4/5 and it doesnt feel hot at all

As said earlier, it doesnt add much heat to the loop compared to CPU / GPU and if you have sufficient radiators, it shouldn't be a problem unless the pump is faulty somehow.

You are saying that your CPU is 19-20 c, that would not be possible with ambient temps of 34-38c (90-100f)
You cant bring a CPU below the ambient with water cooling, unless you have a water chiller or something.
So im guessing your ambient (room) temp is 15-18C atm? that means when you are experiencing ambient of 38, the CPU will raise to 40-45 degrees.(Idle)
Not much you can do about that other than cooling your room to bring down ambient, or use a water chiller to cool the water below ambient.

I hope that helps clear things out


----------



## skupples

What? Idles of 20-30C w/ a 90-100F room?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What Idles of 20-30C w/ a 90-100F room?


A CPU with a water chiller?
I dont understand that question







I never said that.

*Edit
nvm, that was not aimed at me im guessing?
I am wondering the same thing..


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> I live in Indiana in a house with no ac. Wish my PC acted like a ac lol but my temps are good. CPU is 19-20 c GPU is at 30-32c


I don't see how this is possible. I mean there's no way your cpu temps can be cooler than the ambient/room temperature. Something's missing here. ...??? Do you have a rad submerged in a bucket of ice water or something?


----------



## dallas1990

I'm just guessing on my room temp. As of rads I have a 420mm 140mm and a 240mm. The 240mm is intake and the rest exhaust. And my pump is warm but not hot to touch. I figured if I had some air blowing on it. It would be better.


----------



## Devildog83

How good is Performance PCS about RMA's? I ran the pump on my XSPC photon 270 for about 5 seconds and it stopped dead. Yes it was with water in the res. Distilled even. I requested and RMA, haven't heard yet but we shall see.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> I'm just guessing on my room temp. As of rads I have a 420mm 140mm and a 240mm. The 240mm is intake and the rest exhaust. And my pump is warm but not hot to touch. I figured if I had some air blowing on it. It would be better.


Sounds good, it is suppose to be worm, but not burning hot.
You have plenty of rads to take care of what ever little heat the pump is throwing into the loop
You wont really gain much by aiming a fan on the pump, it sounds like it is being cooled nicely by the water.
"guessing on my room temp"
are you guessing it is 90-100F right now? course that just isnt possible if the CPU is idling 20C~
This is pretty important to get cleared out since if what you say is remotely true, your CPU temp sensor is dead. actually the GPU too witch would be weird.
I will suggest you get an accurate room temp to compare with your CPU temp (or water temp if you have a sensor for that?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> How good is Performance PCS about RMA's? I ran the pump on my XSPC photon 270 for about 5 seconds and it stopped dead. Yes it was with water in the res. Distilled even. I requested and RMA, haven't heard yet but we shall see.


Do you have a pic of your setup?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> How good is Performance PCS about RMA's? I ran the pump on my XSPC photon 270 for about 5 seconds and it stopped dead. Yes it was with water in the res. Distilled even. I requested and RMA, haven't heard yet but we shall see.


I have done allot of business with them, but iv'e never had to officially RMA anything. I had a Demciflex filter loose magnetization in about 24 hours, they had a new one to me 24 hours later.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Sounds good, it is suppose to be worm, but not burning hot.
> You have plenty of rads to take care of what ever little heat the pump is throwing into the loop
> You wont really gain much by aiming a fan on the pump, it sounds like it is being cooled nicely by the water.
> "guessing on my room temp"
> are you guessing it is 90-100F right now? course that just isnt possible if the CPU is idling 20C~
> This is pretty important to get cleared out since if what you say is remotely true, your CPU temp sensor is dead. actually the GPU too witch would be weird.
> I will suggest you get an accurate room temp to compare with your CPU temp (or water temp if you have a sensor for that?)
> Do you have a pic of your setup?


All I have is before I ran a test, I just ran a loop from inlet to outlet on the 270 photon pump/res combo and filled it with distilled water and then plugged it in. It ran for a few seconds and then it stopped. No big noise or anything, it just stopped. It may be electricalbut no matter I am going to RMA it. Just another delay in the loop. It's ok because I have decided to get some 90's to make it easier to do the 16mm acrylic routing. It takes more practice than I thought and multiple bends are not very easy.


----------



## dallas1990

. This is when I first put it together. Only difference is a backplate on my gtx 780ti classy and I have red tubing now. I'll get a temp of my toom


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> How good is Performance PCS about RMA's? I ran the pump on my XSPC photon 270 for about 5 seconds and it stopped dead. Yes it was with water in the res. Distilled even. I requested and RMA, haven't heard yet but we shall see.


Debris in the loop? Did you try flushing the pump in reverse flow?


----------



## GaMbi2004

It should screw apart fairly easy.. maybe a good idea to open and see if it is stuck or something


----------



## skupples

You know, I never noticed until using this white tubing, but pitsbpower fittings are dirty as hell.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Anyone have recent experience using Bitfenix Spectre Pros as radiator fans? I prefer to run fans at max speed w/o a fan controller and all that extra wiring so I just plug them into a power distribution board. The noise level seems quite impressive for a 1200rpm fan but the static pressure is a bit weak. However, it looks cool







My other options would be GT-14 if I can ever find any at a decent price. AP-14s running at max speed should be near performance of undervolted AP-15s right? FCPU is overcharging like crazy for the fans and Sidewinders has not responded to my email inquiries. In any case looking to get 23 of one of these fans for a performance/noise level type of deal.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Anyone have recent experience using Bitfenix Spectre Pros as radiator fans? I prefer to run fans at max speed w/o a fan controller and all that extra wiring so I just plug them into a power distribution board. The noise level seems quite impressive for a 1200rpm fan but the static pressure is a bit weak. However, it looks cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My other options would be GT-14 if I can ever find any at a decent price. AP-14s running at max speed should be near performance of undervolted AP-15s right? FCPU is overcharging like crazy for the fans and Sidewinders has not responded to my email inquiries. In any case looking to get 23 of one of these fans for a performance/noise level type of deal.


I don't know anything about Bitfenix Spectre Pros, but, yes, AP-14s perform almost identical on a radiator to an AP-15 at lower speeds.

From the 50 fan-on-rad roundup at MartinsLiquidLabs -

The AP-13, AP-14, and AP-15s took the top 5 (lowest decibel) spots @ the 20 CFM level thru a Swiftech MCR120 rad.



And here's how the Gentle Typhoon's charted against all the other fans tested:



BTW, What were you trying to ask Sidewinder? They are a great shop to do business with, but it's just Gary and his wife. Sidewinder is not a big business with employees like FCPU or PPCs. I've never had them not respond to any emails, but taking a day or two or three to get back wouldn't be out of the norm. That said, shipping times have always been quick and they're prices always low.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Spectre Pro's are crap rad fans,got 6 sitting here for a build but they got ditched quickly.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> How good is Performance PCS about RMA's? I ran the pump on my XSPC photon 270 for about 5 seconds and it stopped dead. Yes it was with water in the res. Distilled even. I requested and RMA, haven't heard yet but we shall see.


They are pretty good about them especially for defective products. When was your stuff delivered though? They can be pretty strict on time lines.


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spectre Pro's are crap rad fans,got 6 sitting here for a build but they got ditched quickly.


 What up B,

Why do you say that the Sectre Pro's are crap? I have had them on my 360 Rad for over a year now and they have been good so far?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spectre Pro's are crap rad fans,got 6 sitting here for a build but they got ditched quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> What up B,
> 
> Why do you say that the Sectre Pro's are crap? I have had them on my 360 Rad for over a year now and they have been good so far?
Click to expand...

They are not the best fans for rads.
I got a 2c temp rise using them against Corsair SP's at equal speeds on a 240 rad.


----------



## GaMbi2004

same here, got a 4 degree drop when I swapped my 3x120mm spectre pro(@1200rpm) for noctua NF-F12(@900rpm)

*Edit
Wait.. I forgot, 2 of my specpro's was 140mm and on a 280mm radiator..
Almost no air comming through the rad (black ice GTX)
So downgraded to 240 GTS instead and upgraded noctuas..

still.. more cooling at less RPM and smaller radiator







gotta put the spectre pros in some kind of bad light?

*Edit2
+spectre pro are quite noisy


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> same here, got a 4 degree drop when I swapped my 3x120mm spectre pro(@1200rpm) for noctua NF-F12(@900rpm)
> 
> *Edit
> Wait.. I forgot, 2 of my specpro's was 140mm and on a 280mm radiator..
> Almost no air comming through the rad (black ice GTX)
> So downgraded to 240 GTS instead and upgraded noctuas..
> 
> still.. more cooling at less RPM and smaller radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gotta put the spectre pros in some kind of bad light?
> 
> *Edit2
> +spectre pro are quite noisy


I got a 7 degree drop switching to the noctua NF-F12 from corsair and a lot quieter but I messed up and bought 140mm there to big for current application.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just snag some 140 to 120 adapters


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> What up B,
> 
> Why do you say that the Sectre Pro's are crap? I have had them on my 360 Rad for over a year now and they have been good so far?


I used to have a rig full of both Spectre and Spectre Pro fans, and the bearings they use are awful. Mind made a grinding noise at no matter what angle the fan was held at, and the blades themselves from what I could gather make more noise than airflow









-Zepp


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just snag some 140 to 120 adapters


I have the adapters they came with the fans its just to tight.







not that tight is a bad thing

I Painted mine


----------



## Devildog83

Update on bad pump - Performance PCS talked to XSPC and OK'd taking the pump apart to see if I could find the problem so I removed it from the res and pulled out the impeller. I then plugged the 3 pin in and then the molex and of course it stared spinning right away. I was even able to make sure it would adjust and it did fine. I guess what ever it was, it must have been an electrical connection, it was not a bad pump







. I am so relieved. Now I am going to wait for my 90's and finish this freakin' build.

Just a note on the fans - the Noctua's are good fans but they are so fugly, I could never put them in my case unless they change colors.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Just a note on the fans - the Noctua's are good fans but they are so fugly, I could never put them in my case unless they change colors.


I couldn't agree more about the Noctua fans. I don't understand why they maintain that color scheme. It came right out of the 70's and should have stayed there.

Congrats on the pump!


----------



## skupples

What is this "Gentle Typhoon 15*a*" & "Gentle Typhoon 15*b*"

The only difference iv'e ever seen is the header they ship with. A black header that has issues staying snug, and a white header that is perfectly fine.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What is this "Gentle Typhoon 15*a*" & "Gentle Typhoon 15*b*"
> 
> The only difference iv'e ever seen is the header they ship with. A black header that has issues staying snug, and a white header that is perfectly fine.


If memory serves, in that test the "a and b" were for the AP 15 at stock speed and one with a lowered speed using fan controller.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## VSG

Bundy, how come you didn't go with the cathode in the FrozenQ res?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Update on bad pump - Performance PCS talked to XSPC and OK'd taking the pump apart to see if I could find the problem so I removed it from the res and pulled out the impeller. I then plugged the 3 pin in and then the molex and of course it stared spinning right away. I was even able to make sure it would adjust and it did fine. I guess what ever it was, it must have been an electrical connection, it was not a bad pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am so relieved. Now I am going to wait for my 90's and finish this freakin' build.
> 
> Just a note on the fans - the Noctua's are good fans but they are so fugly, I could never put them in my case unless they change colors.


:O you had it running with no water? and you even managed to test the speed adjust? thats scary dude! I hope you didnt burn it.
But then again, D5's are awesome








Congrats on an easy fix!


----------



## charliebrown

That res is nice


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If memory serves, in that test the "a and b" were for the AP 15 at stock speed and one with a lowered speed using fan controller.


All of the fans were voltage controlled for the purposes of the test. There were 3 AP-15s used in the test. He explains in the link on page 2: Gentle Typhoon AP-15 New Batch Sample A & Sample B, but at the moment that link, which goes to xtremesystems.org, isn't working for me.

Anywho, I believe (I'm not positive but iirc) one of the AP-15s tested was an old/used one he had lying around, and then he had two new fans from both the old and the new Gentle Typhoon design. If you look at the first chart posted in his test, in row 12, he crossed the "OLD" one off, I assume after he got the two new AP-15 fans of each type.

Perhaps you remember when Gentle Typhoon changed the vent hole pattern on the front of the hub? This is what I believe were a & b in the test ...



I believe the old design is on the left and the newer on the right. Probably not the best examples because I think the one on the left is a smaller 92mm version also, which is why it has fewer blades, but that's all I saw of the older type on a google image search.

EDIT:

I found where Martin mentions the differences between the 'a' and 'b' AP-15s here on OCN, as part of his 6 fan test:

http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread/140_20#post_11347868

He describes the difference like so:
Quote:


> This is one of the newer batch fans with a slightly different rear frame with openings near the PCB for what appears to be improved air cooling to the electrical parts.


So looks like I was probably mistaken about the difference being in the front of the hub, but a revised version of the AP-15 nonetheless.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Bundy, how come you didn't go with the cathode in the FrozenQ res?


I prefer Leds, looks better imo


----------



## VSG

Ya, I kinda agree in that particular case anyway. Does an LED at the top help accentuate the existing LED at the bottom or is that "too much"?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> :O you had it running with no water? and you even managed to test the speed adjust? thats scary dude! I hope you didnt burn it.
> But then again, D5's are awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on an easy fix!


I only ran it for a few seconds to see that it spun and adjusted. The D5's are great as nothing actually touch's, it's all done magnetically. No it's not burned up. I will run it no further though until it's under water again.


----------



## pc-illiterate

The impeller rides on I believe a graphite bearing. There is a reason it supposed to not run dry. It's called friction wear.

Edited because phone posting stinks.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> The impeller rides on I believe a graphite bearing. There is a reason it supposed to run dry. It's called friction wear.


You mean "Not run dry". I have no plans to run it anymore without water, it was just for a few seconds.


----------



## skupples

Interesting... I can say that all 34 of my typhoons are type A


----------



## PCModderMike

Got my loop filled.








Sorry if that's too many pics for one post.


----------



## Devildog83

Very nice PCModderMike -

My stepson has been planning nearly that exact same build. I am sure he will be interested in seeing this.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I only ran it for a few seconds to see that it spun and adjusted. The D5's are great as nothing actually touch's, it's all done magnetically. No it's not burned up. I will run it no further though until it's under water again.


Oh







fast hands.. In my head it sounded like you had it running for 5-10 sec..
2 seconds sounds better.. but seriously.. even 2 second without water can burn the knob that the impeller is riding on
And yea, I know how the D5 looks inside







had a small piece of acrylic stuck in mine once (bad cleaning after acrylic tubing conversion)
Horrible noise.. and @kpoeticg if you are spying on this.. NO IT WAS NOT AIR!!


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Got my loop filled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if that's too many pics for one post.










Nice!!!!!!!!


----------



## skupples

Dry run pump death seems a bit over blown. Not sure the last time I even heard of someone killing a pump from user error.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Dry run pump death seems a bit over blown. Not sure the last time I even heard of someone killing a pump from user error.


Yeah, but I think most of us here have seen at least one video of an airlocked pump start groaning death noises in as little as 30-45 seconds of being run dry. I know I've seen a few. I don't think it's a good idea to risk it at all if at all possible. Seems to me that any amount of time being run dry isn't going to be good for anything.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Very nice PCModderMike -
> 
> My stepson has been planning nearly that exact same build. I am sure he will be interested in seeing this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Got my loop filled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if that's too many pics for one post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Got my loop filled.
> 
> Sorry if that's too many pics for one post.


That looks nice.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Got my loop filled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if that's too many pics for one post.


http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2004290/


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Got my loop filled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if that's too many pics for one post.


Very nice build. Not my choice of coolant colour - but it's a great build anyway.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, but I think most of us here have seen at least one video of an airlocked pump start groaning death noises in as little as 30-45 seconds of being run dry. I know I've seen a few. I don't think it's a good idea to risk it at all if at all possible. Seems to me that any amount of time being run dry isn't going to be good for anything.


My thoughts exactly!
I may be wrong by stating that 5-10 sec of running dry can kill a D5 pump, but by saying it, I might bring the fact that pumps dont like to run dry to the attention of folks who just started water cooling.
I usually test all my components before modding / putting them to use. If I had not seen texts like this / videos, I would probably have plugged in my pump to test it before putting it in my loop.
Better safe than sorry.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Dry run pump death seems a bit over blown. Not sure the last time I even heard of someone killing a pump from user error.


Its not,even a few seconds running a dry bearing will score it,greatly reducing its lifespan.
The bearing,like most bearings,relies on being perfect for optimal use. Once it is marked then its a slippery slope to death.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not,even a few seconds running a dry bearing will score it,greatly reducing its lifespan.
> The bearing,like most bearings,relies on being perfect for optimal use. Once it is marked then its a slippery slope to death.


My pump ran semi dry when filling, as the liquid got sucked in quicker than I could react to switching off the PSU. Do you think my pump is scored as well? It has been working perfectly fine for 6 months.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not,even a few seconds running a dry bearing will score it,greatly reducing its lifespan.
> The bearing,like most bearings,relies on being perfect for optimal use. Once it is marked then its a slippery slope to death.
> 
> 
> 
> My pump ran semi dry when filling as the liquid got sucked in quicker than I could react to switching off the PSU. Do you think my pump is scored as well? It has been working perfectly fine for 6 months.
Click to expand...

Semi dry is better than dry,even a small amount of water will work wonders


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Semi dry is better than dry,even a small amount of water will work wonders


So I'm safe?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Semi dry is better than dry,even a small amount of water will work wonders
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm safe?
Click to expand...

I cant say based on just your description,certainly not enough to commit myself to yes/no.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I cant say based on just your description,certainly not enough to commit myself to yes/no.


Fair Enough!
A second thing I'd like to tell you is that I purchased an EK D5 Vario Top-X from Specialtech.co.uk. When I run the pump on speed setting 5, I hear girdling and grinding noises. Just wondering what would cause that.
Also, when you will have the Swiftech MCRES in stock?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I cant say based on just your description,certainly not enough to commit myself to yes/no.


Does it erk you that Cynical_Cyanide has self appointed him self god of CiG HW forum? Because it does for me.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> BTW, What were you trying to ask Sidewinder? They are a great shop to do business with, but it's just Gary and his wife. Sidewinder is not a big business with employees like FCPU or PPCs. I've never had them not respond to any emails, but taking a day or two or three to get back wouldn't be out of the norm. That said, shipping times have always been quick and they're prices always low.


I was asking about their sleeving service if they did it up to the center of the fan. It was also a bit of a feeler email as well considering the only recent reviews I could find were negative about how they went MIA and of course during that storm period where everything got delayed. I checked out their FB page as well which had a link updated in late April and only thing before that was in February so it just didn't seem like the company was active or up and running still.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang was wondering if anyone had any transparent acrylic scraps??

Looking for two 8x8" pieces and a 6x6" tube.

Can anyone help?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I cant say based on just your description,certainly not enough to commit myself to yes/no.
> 
> 
> 
> Fair Enough!
> A second thing I'd like to tell you is that I purchased an EK D5 Vario Top-X from Specialtech.co.uk. When I run the pump on speed setting 5, I hear girdling and grinding noises. Just wondering what would cause that.
> Also, when you will have the Swiftech MCRES in stock?
Click to expand...

Sounds like high speed cavitation,does it have a gravel truck quality?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I cant say based on just your description,certainly not enough to commit myself to yes/no.
> 
> 
> 
> Does it erk you that Cynical_Cyanide has self appointed him self god of CiG HW forum? Because it does for me.
Click to expand...

He is a useless sack of fanboi flesh Skup,I take great delight in telling him I speak to enough NVidia reps as it is without answering his nonsense


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds like high speed cavitation,does it have a gravel truck quality?
> He is a useless sack of fanboi flesh Skup,I take great delight in telling him I speak to enough NVidia reps as it is without answering his nonsense


It is hard to say. Let's say yes for now.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds like high speed cavitation,does it have a gravel truck quality?
> He is a useless sack of fanboi flesh Skup,I take great delight in telling him I speak to enough NVidia reps as it is without answering his nonsense


He makes me gouge my eyes out near daily over on CiG hardware forums.









anyways, back to wiring.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds like high speed cavitation,does it have a gravel truck quality?
> He is a useless sack of fanboi flesh Skup,I take great delight in telling him I speak to enough NVidia reps as it is without answering his nonsense
> 
> 
> 
> It is hard to say. Let's say yes for now.
Click to expand...

Do you have a 90 elbow on the inlet to the pump?


----------



## skupples

so... should I be running tri-sli in 2x parallel 1x serial? (even w/ the silly tri-pump?)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so... should I be running tri-sli in 2x parallel 1x serial? (even w/ the silly tri-pump?)


Just go all serial,2 parallel and 1 serial is quadfire setups btw....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Fair Enough!
> A second thing I'd like to tell you is that I purchased an EK D5 Vario Top-X from Specialtech.co.uk. When I run the pump on speed setting 5, I hear girdling and grinding noises. Just wondering what would cause that.
> Also, when you will have the Swiftech MCRES in stock?


Also check if you have not overtight the screws which might lead to the D5 impeller to hit the ceiling of the top causing some noise.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you have a 90 elbow on the inlet to the pump?


No sir:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

When you run the pump at high speed,can you see bubbles in the top?


----------



## VSG

New Singularity Computers build log in the CaseLabs STH-10 started:






@skupples, @szeged: 4930k, R4BE and multiple GK110 rig in here


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New Singularity Computers build log in the CaseLabs STH-10 started:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @skupples, @szeged: 4930k, R4BE and multiple GK110 rig in here


Everything he makes is pure computer porn. It's ridiculous.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> I was asking about their sleeving service if they did it up to the center of the fan. It was also a bit of a feeler email as well considering the only recent reviews I could find were negative about how they went MIA and of course during that storm period where everything got delayed. I checked out their FB page as well which had a link updated in late April and only thing before that was in February so it just didn't seem like the company was active or up and running still.


They're definitely active and up and running. I've ordered from them 4 times so far in 2014, with my most recent order 5 days ago (May 1) for four AP-14s which arrived yesterday.



I couldn't comment on their optional sleeving though as I much prefer to do all my own.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New Singularity Computers build log in the CaseLabs STH-10 started:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @skupples, @szeged: 4930k, R4BE and multiple GK110 rig in here
> 
> 
> 
> *Everything he makes is pure computer porn. It's ridiculous.*
Click to expand...

QFT


----------



## VSG

Ya, he is a real inspiration to us all. I was surprised when he said this was the first time he was building in the STH-10 given he usually does big cases.


----------



## skupples

Hey! A properly done version of my build, except he almost always does dual loop, cuz tacticool.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New Singularity Computers build log in the CaseLabs STH-10 started:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @skupples, @szeged: 4930k, R4BE and multiple GK110 rig in here


$660 for that case! http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_1226&products_id=37261


----------



## Blackspots

Hey guys, how does this look for a future cooling system?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> $660 for that case! http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_1226&products_id=37261


$660 from PPC for the stock run down, which doesn't include shipping.







They start @ $599 from caselabs.net


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> $660 for that case! http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_1226&products_id=37261


I paid: $630 for my STH10 + ~$110 in accessories, total: $740. Its expensive


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I paid: $630 for my STH10 + ~$110 in accessories, total: $740. Its expensive


And I thought $150 for a computer case was expensive.


----------



## PCModderMike

CaseLabs definitely gets pricey...I only have one of their baby cases and it was still $366 with the accessories and shipping.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I could never afford a case labs case then... Shipping would be close to the cost of my full loop.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

iirc Singularity is in Australia, so you can add on an extra appendage for shipping from Caselabs in the US to the arm and a leg that the case itself cost.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I paid: $630 for my STH10 + ~$110 in accessories, total: $740. Its expensive


Mine was $831 with accessories, but no shipping


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I paid: $630 for my STH10 + ~$110 in accessories, total: $740. Its expensive


I bet you liked the color scheme Singularity is going with in here


----------



## skupples

I ended up only saving ~$100 on my STH-10, but I was extremely generous w/ StrongIsland due to his local UPS removing 2 arms & one leg for shipping.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I paid: $630 for my STH10 + ~$110 in accessories, total: $740. Its expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine was $831 with accessories, but no shipping
Click to expand...

Ouch. I don't think I've ever seen your STH10...just the 3770K and one GPU in that big 'ol case?

Sorry for the OT, feel like this is turning into the CL owners thread...


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you run the pump at high speed,can you see bubbles in the top?


Not that I can tell. I will check in the daylight tomorrow.

Could you help me with another thing that's been bothering me lately?
What's this green stuff in my Micro Res?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thanks for all the support everyone. Rep points will follow


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Not that I can tell. I will check in the daylight tomorrow.
> 
> Could you help me with another thing that's been bothering me lately?
> What's this green stuff in my Micro Res?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the support everyone. Rep points will follow


is it stuck to the acrylic or does it wave around in the water like a spider web in the wind?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> is it stuck to the acrylic or does it wave around in the water like a spider web in the wind?


It's completely stuck and it does not move at all. It looks like someone has lightly smeared a green substance onto the side of the acrylic plastic. Very strange. Not sure what this substance is and how it has come to be. I can also see the same substance in a couple of areas in the tubing, but it's very light and seems to fade day by day. I'm using Primochill PremoFlex Advanced LRT tubing. Thanks man!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Not that I can tell. I will check in the daylight tomorrow.
> 
> Could you help me with another thing that's been bothering me lately?
> What's this green stuff in my Micro Res?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the support everyone. Rep points will follow


Has that always been there or did it just start showing up recently? It could be algae growth, but it's hard to tell from that picture. Try using a clean q-tip to wipe it off and see what it is.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> It's completely stuck and it does not move at all. It looks like someone has lightly smeared a green substance onto the side of the acrylic plastic. Very strange. Not sure what this substance is and how it has come to be. I can also see the same substance in a couple of areas in the tubing, but it's very light and seems to fade day by day. I'm using Primochill PremoFlex Advanced LRT tubing. Thanks man!


Running on what liquid? Had you flush the system thoughtfully before putting to use?

cheers


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Running on what liquid? Had you flush the system thoughtfully before putting to use?
> 
> cheers


And when was the last time your changed your fuild/coolant.... Sounds and looks like aglae...Russ


----------



## skupples

Algae seems most likely.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> And I thought $150 for a computer case was expensive.


It can get pricey








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> CaseLabs definitely gets pricey...I only have one of their baby cases and it was still $366 with the accessories and shipping.


Love that you're still using nylon tube








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I could never afford a case labs case then... Shipping would be close to the cost of my full loop.


Pm CL kevin four some#s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Mine was $831 with accessories, but no shipping


It could have been more but I went with cheaper xspc mounts for the top and front rads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ouch. I don't think I've ever seen your STH10...just the 3770K and one GPU in that big 'ol case?
> 
> Sorry for the OT, feel like this is turning into the CL owners thread...


Mine is blocked out









@Geggeg, what color scheme you going with? Also, what happened to the Tx10?????


----------



## montyman03

Finally got all my build stuff today and while putting it together ran into a problem deciding what I wanted to do with the pump now. With the pump on the midplate, the inlet/outlet tubes would both be going directly down so no tube running across to the res. But if I put it in the basement I think it will look a little cleaner and will make the tubing runs much easier too. Guess I'd just hate having that dress up kit hidden...
What do you all think?


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I like the last picture with the pump not hidden


----------



## BradleyW

Deleted.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> 
> Hey guys, how does this look for a future cooling system?


Two things. It looks like you have a DDC pump top/reservoir there but a D5 pump, so those wouldn't go together. Also, if you are using compression fittings, you can get tubing the same size - so 1/2-5/8 tubing for the 1/2-5/8 fittings you chose.

But I'm on my phone and the picture is really small, so it's possible I'm reading what you have selected wrong.


----------



## skupples

I would ditch the alphacool waterblock & back plate. I think many people would agree.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ouch. I don't think I've ever seen your STH10...just the 3770K and one GPU in that big 'ol case?
> 
> Sorry for the OT, feel like this is turning into the CL owners thread...


Lol, I should have some up in a week or so, last order of parts should be here Friday.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Has that always been there or did it just start showing up recently? It could be algae growth, but it's hard to tell from that picture. Try using a clean q-tip to wipe it off and see what it is.


It's been there for around 1 month. I left it alone to monitor it's changes. It's not changed at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Running on what liquid? Had you flush the system thoughtfully before putting to use?
> 
> cheers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Algae seems most likely.


Yes all hardware was completely flushed. I am using Mayhems X1, which contains anti algae and anti corrosion.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would ditch the alphacool waterblock & back plate. I think many people would agree.


That Alphacool block is the only block available for a trio of non-reference EVGA GTX760s, one of which I would hope/assume blackspots has if he's getting that block. There are no other companies making waterblocks for those cards.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Two things. It looks like you have a DDC pump top/reservoir there but a D5 pump, so those wouldn't go together. Also, if you are using compression fittings, you can get tubing the same size - so 1/2-5/8 tubing for the 1/2-5/8 fittings you chose.
> 
> But I'm on my phone and the picture is really small, so it's possible I'm reading what you have selected wrong.


^^this. Blackspots change the reservoir/pump top for a D5 one or change the pump to a DDC. Pair tube and fittings since looks like a Russian Salad in Paris right now.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> CaseLabs definitely gets pricey...I only have one of their baby cases and it was still $366 with the accessories and shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that you're still using nylon tube
Click to expand...

Always have








I dunno, just haven't jumped onto the acrylic tubing bandwagon yet.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^this. Blackspots change the reservoir/pump top for a D5 one or change the pump to a DDC. Pair tube and fittings since looks like a Russian Salad in Paris right now.


I went with this instead http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21023/ex-pmp-252/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_140_incl_pump.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That Alphacool block is the only block available for a trio of non-reference EVGA GTX760s, one of which I would hope/assume blackspots has if he's getting that block. There are no other companies making waterblocks for those cards.


Yeah, its about the only waterblock I can find for that video card.

Here's my wishlist: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=16700245

Case and motherboard subject to change. Most likely the mITX version of that Carbide 540 when Corsair comes out with it, and most likely the Maximus VII Impact, if Asus comes out with that.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That Alphacool block is the only block available for a trio of non-reference EVGA GTX760s, one of which I would hope/assume blackspots has if he's getting that block. There are no other companies making waterblocks for those cards.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> I went with this instead http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21023/ex-pmp-252/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_140_incl_pump.html


I have the same one, just a smaller res and I am really impressed with it, it pushes a lot of water.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would ditch the alphacool waterblock & back plate. I think many people would agree.


That's currently the only block available for non-reference 760s. If he had a reference card it'd be a different story. I have XSPC razor 670 blocks on my 760s and they rock!

Nonetheless water cooling his graphics card will be worth it for the gpu boost 2.0.

Edit: Yeah what @Unicr0nhunter said. Lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> *I went with this instead http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21023/ex-pmp-252/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_140_incl_pump.html*
> 
> Yeah, its about the only waterblock I can find for that video card.
> 
> Here's my wishlist: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=16700245
> 
> Case and motherboard subject to change. Most likely the mITX version of that Carbide 540 when Corsair comes out with it, and most likely the Maximus VII Impact, if Asus comes out with that.


That top/reservoir is great for the D5


----------



## Pimphare

@Blackspots

That block didn't exist when I bought my first 760, that's why I went with the reference design. Glad somebody showed some love for these cards. It'd be cool to see more blocks come out. I mean people would buy the heck out of 'em. These cards run great on water!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @Blackspots
> 
> That block didn't exist when I bought my first 760, that's why I went with the reference design. Glad somebody showed some love for these cards. It'd be cool to see more blocks come out. I mean people would buy the heck out of 'em. These cards run great on water!


The problem with the term "reference" is that nVidia has actually had 2 reference boards for the 760, one that was based on the short 670 board, and one that was basically an identical board, but it extended out past the pcie power connectors. But they have both technically been "reference" boards as far as nVidia sees it.


----------



## skupples

I think I used 680 blocks on my 670FTWs.


----------



## Jimhans1

Probably, the 670 was another bastard card that had two reference boards, one long and one short.


----------



## skupples

so close. rat nest goes in tomorrow after initial pump test.

I wish CL would put 2 ports north of the motherboard, or centralize the main one.

going to have to tape down those front radiator wires or something, they keep poking out.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> It's been there for around 1 month. I left it alone to monitor it's changes. It's not changed at all.
> 
> Yes all hardware was completely flushed. I am using Mayhems X1, which contains anti algae and anti corrosion.


How long since last coolant change?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think I used 680 blocks on my 670FTWs.


Now that I think about it, I remember talking with someone about the possibility of a 680 block fitting a 760 card.

Gigabyte Windforce OC 760 rev 1.0 pcb:


Gigabyte Windforce OC 680 rev 1.0 pcb:


Nice work on you're build btw!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Probably, the 670 was another bastard card that had two reference boards, one long and one short.


Lol poor bastard. Oops double post. I'm on my tele.


----------



## derickwm

That white tube at the bottom looks weird. Also dat red evga logo does too. But ya know. Whatevs.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That white tube at the bottom looks weird. Also dat red evga logo does too. But ya know. Whatevs.


I sent an email out to Coldzero to see if they can make white inserts for the logo, & not sure what i'm going to do about that one tube either. The only other visible tubing is gpu>>south bridge. I may replace both of them with the bit of norprene I have left, an 8 inch segment of extensions would look even weirder, tried it. I'm welcome to input, =)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I think about it, I remember talking with someone about the possibility of a 680 block fitting a 760 card.
> 
> Gigabyte Windforce OC 760 rev 1.0 pcb:
> 
> 
> Gigabyte Windforce OC 680 rev 1.0 pcb:
> 
> 
> Nice work on you're build btw!


the 670FTW had the stacked 6 pins... Uses reference 680 PCB.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That white tube at the bottom looks weird. Also dat red evga logo does too. But ya know. Whatevs.
> 
> 
> 
> I sent an email out to Coldzero to see if they can make white inserts for the logo, & not sure what i'm going to do about that one tube either. The only other visible tubing is gpu>>south bridge. I may replace both of them with the bit of norprene I have left, an 8 inch segment of extensions would look even weirder, tried it. I'm welcome to input, =)
Click to expand...

My 8in segment doesn't look weird.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My 8in segment doesn't look weird.






























The only answer: Acrylic! the LRT tubing is REALLY annoying. Even once you have bent it back into shape it still looks bent.


----------



## derickwm

What LEDs are you using btw?

I'd go with extensions personally, norprene at the very least though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What LEDs are you using btw?
> 
> I'd go with extensions personally, norprene at the very least though.


My brother grabbed me one of THESE when they were like $10 during Xmas. The window has 4 blue LEDs in it, not lit up yet, & the pump will either have 1 LED in the middle, two on each end, or all three if my sanding of the holes & diodes actually works.

The space between the bottom GPU & pass through is a perfect 130mm, I only tried it with a hodgepodge of enzo & BP, should look better w/ all BP since they have a more seamless mating.

Edit: OK Derick, i'm taking your advice. Picked up 2x 50mm, 1x 30mm, 1x 25mm, 1x 5mm, and 1x 1mm male/male extensions. Will replace gpu>south bridge w/ norprene.


----------



## royce5950

Hey so I was curious if anyone jnew whay was going on with this issue im having. I have two waterloops running in the computer in the pictures I posted and one of them is running fine, but the one with the small reservoir and the bay reservoir in the same loop is leaking at the inlet of the EK cpu block. When comp is off there is no leaks at all but when its running it drips continuously until turned back off. The loop isnt filled all the way yet amd im hesitant to fill it all the way but could this stress on the pump be the reason its leaking? Its coming out between an extender and a revolver fitting and its tightly in place too. Im confused and I dont know if I should drain it or if filling it will do the trick.


----------



## skupples

I would verify integrity of the O-rings.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Hey so I was curious if anyone jnew whay was going on with this issue im having. I have two waterloops running in the computer in the pictures I posted and one of them is running fine, but the one with the small reservoir and the bay reservoir in the same loop is leaking at the inlet of the EK cpu block. When comp is off there is no leaks at all but when its running it drips continuously until turned back off. The loop isnt filled all the way yet amd im hesitant to fill it all the way but could this stress on the pump be the reason its leaking? Its coming out between an extender and a revolver fitting and its tightly in place too. Im confused and I dont know if I should drain it or if filling it will do the trick.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I had the same problem when I used an extender with one of the Primochill rigid compression fittings, the threads on the Primochill fittings is longer than most, and the threads bottom out BEFORE the o-ring is tightly pressed enough to seal the opening. If you removed the extender, or filed the threads on the Primochill fitting down 2-3mm, it will solve the leak.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The problem with the term "reference" is that nVidia has actually had 2 reference boards for the 760, one that was based on the short 670 board, and one that was basically an identical board, but it extended out past the pcie power connectors. But they have both technically been "reference" boards as far as nVidia sees it.


Sorry but no. The _ONLY_ reference 760s made by EVGA are the 2GB 02G-P4-2760-KR and the 4GB 04G-P4-2766-KR. They both use the same short 6" PCB as the reference GTX-670 (that's why GTX-670 waterblocks fit reference GTX-760 cards). As far as other brand cards go, every one on this list (PDF) with green beside it is also a reference 760 with the short 6" PCB.

For the record, I have three of the 4GB 04G-P4-2766-KR short PCB reference GTX-760s with GTX-670 blocks on them.

Reference GTX-760 PCB (short 6"):


Non-reference GTX-760 PCB:


All of the other GTX760s with longer PCBs are non-reference and there are differences on those longer PCBs from one model to the next by every 760 manufacturer which is why there are almost no blocks made for them. The only manufacturer to make blocks for any of the non-reference models has been Alphacool who made blocks only for 3 specific EVGA models (PDF). They appear to _only_ fit those three non-reference 760 cards. I've seen many try, but have yet to see anyone post success at getting the Alphacool block to fit any other of the long PCB non-reference 760s from EVGA or any other card manufacturer.

Some of the longer PCBs used in the non-reference GTX-760s are pretty obviously based on the GTX-680, and from a visual check, some look identical, but the only person I've seen try one found out an EK 680 block was hitting several places that warped the PCB when the block was tightened down and it couldn't be made to work. Perhaps someone else found a way to make one fit, but you won't yet find any block manufacturer saying that any of their 680 blocks will fit any of the non-reference GTX-760s, not even just from a 'visual check'.


----------



## Jimhans1

Ok


----------



## DoktorTerror

BP-DDCPC-BK Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355.....Available On 12th May

Features:
1. Unique Design.
2. Metal Case For Excellent Heat Dissipation.
3. High Durability Sandblasting Process In Anodize Treatment.
4. Rohs Compliant.

Dimensions: 62x62x30.3MM
Color : Black.

Material :
Aluminum.

Included :
1. Back Parts x 1PCS.
2. Thermal PAD x 1PCS.
3. Screw x 1Set.


----------



## Noviets

Fans and controller arrived!

I put them in my system to see what they're like, even though asll of my other water cooling gear will be here this week (hopefully)

Is there a method to mounting them? Can't seem the get them as quiet as I would expect them to be, especially the ones mounted on the top of the case (but inside).

The one at the back is almost dead silent.

Do you mount them loosely? I used the little rubber pads between the grill and the fan itself. I think I'll try to loosen them all up.

Anyone have experience with the eLoops?


----------



## ErdincIntel

Mining with R9 280X and RADEON HD7950


----------



## dallas1990

I'll go on a limb and say a fitting seal is at fault some how. But Idk much on acrylic tubing. Maybe you have a slight "rough" cut. Like its not perfectly straight it is angled. But that's just what I'm guessing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fans and controller arrived!
> 
> I put them in my system to see what they're like, even though asll of my other water cooling gear will be here this week (hopefully)
> 
> Is there a method to mounting them? Can't seem the get them as quiet as I would expect them to be, especially the ones mounted on the top of the case (but inside).
> 
> The one at the back is almost dead silent.
> 
> Do you mount them loosely? I used the little rubber pads between the grill and the fan itself. I think I'll try to loosen them all up.
> 
> Anyone have experience with the eLoops?


That's a pretty well known issue with eLoops. The manufacturer, Blacknoise, says they were not really designed to be used in 'pull'. Apparently using a shroud / gasket can be helpful.

Here's some previous discussion on this thread about the issue:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> last week i asked if we can use Noiseblocker e-loops as push and pull here is the offical answer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in the FAQ on the e-loop home page:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?*
> 
> This is due to aerodynamics, simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessories) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimized for.
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

They seem to be very nice fans otherwise, but for the prices they have been asking for them having these sorts of issues when used in pull on a rad is a bit ridiculous imho. It's not like they are not fully aware of the issue. Seems to me like a redesign has been long overdue, and they ought to slash the prices in half or more on all the current stock, not to mention, every advertisement for the fans probably ought to have some sort of a warning about the problem.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think I used 680 blocks on my 670FTWs.


That's what I picked up. Still need to get one more. Btw, your build is looking damn good, skupples!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pm CL kevin four some#s


If shipping to Korea was cheap, I would consider it. I may look when I get back into the US, and stay there for an extended period of time.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> How long since last coolant change?


5 Months.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> BP-DDCPC-BK Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355.....Available On 12th May
> 
> Features:
> 1. Unique Design.
> 2. Metal Case For Excellent Heat Dissipation.
> 3. High Durability Sandblasting Process In Anodize Treatment.
> 4. Rohs Compliant.
> 
> Dimensions: 62x62x30.3MM
> Color : Black.
> 
> Material :
> Aluminum.
> 
> Included :
> 1. Back Parts x 1PCS.
> 2. Thermal PAD x 1PCS.
> 3. Screw x 1Set.


Bitspower...doin it with style.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> 5 Months.


Hmm.. everything seams to be done right and 5 months is nothing..
Hard to say.. Just keep an eye out to make sure it does not get worse.. If it does, flush the system.
If it returns after flushing, you might have to tare the loop down and clean all blocks / rads / pump / res etc and maybe change the tubes to get rid of it all..
I doubt that it will come back after a good flush though.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> BP-DDCPC-BK Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355.....Available On 12th May
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Features:
> 1. Unique Design.
> 2. Metal Case For Excellent Heat Dissipation.
> 3. High Durability Sandblasting Process In Anodize Treatment.
> 4. Rohs Compliant.
> 
> Dimensions: 62x62x30.3MM
> Color : Black.
> 
> Material :
> Aluminum.
> 
> Included :
> 1. Back Parts x 1PCS.
> 2. Thermal PAD x 1PCS.
> 3. Screw x 1Set.


That is incredibly sexy! Almost has me wanting to switch to the DDCs instead of the D5's when I watercool.... Decisions, decisions!


----------



## VSG

You will not see that angle ever once the DDC is installed so don't do it just for looks.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Hmm.. everything seams to be done right and 5 months is nothing..
> Hard to say.. Just keep an eye out to make sure it does not get worse.. If it does, flush the system.
> If it returns after flushing, you might have to tare the loop down and clean all blocks / rads / pump / res etc and maybe change the tubes to get rid of it all..
> I doubt that it will come back after a good flush though.


Thanks, I will just tear it down and clean! Any suggestions for cleaning my equipment?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> And I thought $150 for a computer case was expensive.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> CaseLabs definitely gets pricey...I only have one of their baby cases and it was still $366 with the accessories and shipping.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I could never afford a case labs case then... Shipping would be close to the cost of my full loop.


(Late to this comment party, I know...)

CL can be expensive, I know, but it's totally worth it!!!

$380-ish for my first (smallest they make), including second top...

$800-ish for the second, including custom powder and spare panels...

It's a marriage strainer for sure!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> BP-DDCPC-BK Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355.....Available On 12th May
> 
> Features:
> 1. Unique Design.
> 2. Metal Case For Excellent Heat Dissipation.
> 3. High Durability Sandblasting Process In Anodize Treatment.
> 4. Rohs Compliant.
> 
> Dimensions: 62x62x30.3MM
> Color : Black.
> 
> Material :
> Aluminum.
> 
> Included :
> 1. Back Parts x 1PCS.
> 2. Thermal PAD x 1PCS.
> 3. Screw x 1Set.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


AAAAAAND that's going in the computer building spank bank...

Thanks - T


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You will not see that angle ever once the DDC is installed so don't do it just for looks.


sounds like a job for a BundyMania roundup.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yep. That's exactly how it's supposed to be.
> 
> Not really sure why so many seem to expect the tube to be a uniform glow instead of lit at the bottom and fade out as it goes up. You're definitely not the first I've seen post that they were surprised by that. The fadeaway lighting effect is more pronounced in the 270 than the 170, but that's exactly how it looks in all of XSPC's marketing/advertisement images.
> 
> I personally think it looks really good like that, but seems a lot of folks were expecting the inner tube to be a CFL, not a frosted tube with an led in the bottom.


I think this is more what people are referring to. For me it was very pronounced and has to do with how much you push the led in and twist.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/0_100#post_21811834


----------



## JLMS2010

I have 14 SP120 PWM quiet editions. I'm going to be redoing my build in my new case and don't want to hear anything! LOL Should I keep these or opt for *these*?

I'll be getting a fan controller to control them all.


----------



## sinnedone

At lower rpms the SP120's are actually pretty quiet. I'm talking about 900 or so and they're actually silent. They do get loud after say 1200 rpm or so though.

I'm not sure, but I think the fans you posted (noiseblocker eloops) people have issues with in pull configuration on rads. There's also a martins fan roundup that puts all the fans head to head on video. I used that to listen to each fan at certain rpm . It actually let you tell the difference in sound between the fans.

Oh if you need 4 pwm high performance sp120's let me know.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Eeerrhh... I want to trade some stuff, but I need to get to the appropriate levels. I want to move from a 280 to a 360... Anyone know of someone wanting to get rid of a 360 x 30 mm (rad) and fans?


----------



## BradleyW

Which is the most effective for killing algae? Vinegar or lemon juice?
Also, how do I use the Bicard properly? Do I mix with water, then pour into the Rad?

Thank you all for the assistance.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> At lower rpms they're actually pretty quiet. I'm talking about 900 or so and they're actually silent. They do get loud after say 1200 rpm or so though.
> 
> I'm not sure, but I think the fans you posted people have issues with in pull configuration on rads. There's also a martins fan roundup that puts all the fans head to head on video. I used that to listen to each fan at certain rpm . It actually let you tell the difference in sound between the fans.
> 
> Oh if you need 4 pwm high performance sp120's let me know.


Yeah, I have them running at ~1400rpm now, I'm sure the fan controller would make a huge difference if I knocked it down to 800-900. Plus, saves me another ~$400


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Eeerrhh... I want to trade some stuff, but I need to get to the appropriate levels. I want to move from a 280 to a 360... Anyone know of someone wanting to get rid of a 360 x 30 mm (rad) and fans?


Yeah, I'm trying to get to those levels as well, so I can list somethings too.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Yeah, I'm trying to get to those levels as well, so I can list somethings too.


I can understand [FS] needing 35, but WTB shouldn't need that much. I think I have been with the forums for 6 months, post often, and have proven I am not here to offload junk, yet I can't request the two things I want to buy because of rep... It's frustrating sometimes.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

What's you opinion on this : Black Ice GTS Stealth 140 Gen Two Stealth Single 140mm Fan Radiator G 1/4IN Threaded Black / 25$Can @NCIX

With a 140mm silent fan to go with it.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> What's you opinion on this : Black Ice GTS Stealth 140 Gen Two Stealth Single 140mm Fan Radiator G 1/4IN Threaded Black / 25$Can @NCIX
> 
> With a 140mm silent fan to go with it.


What about *this* one? It looks to be cheaper and should perform better if memory serves me correctly.

Review *here*

It says $59.99 @ NCIX if it's only $25 then yeah go for it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say for $25 it's worth a try.


----------



## BradleyW

Is the following fitting safe to use in a loop containing Copper blocks?
XSPC Compression Fittings (1/2" ID)
Material : Nickel Plated Brass
Colour: Chrome
Source
Thank you.


----------



## VSG

That's fine


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


Yeah i have the same water blocks on my sli'd 760's and im really happy with them. Really good quality build and very nice back plates. Why do you not like them? Just curious


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's fine


Thanks for the reply. I got confused when the source suggested that these fittings are chrome, yet nickel plated brass.

I also require some help on finding a new Reservoir. At the moment, I'm using the Swiftech MCRES but it's starting to leak water through the glued seems. I've been looking at these cylindrical Reservoirs but I'm not sure where and how to install one in my current case.

Here is my case and current configuration:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thank you.


----------



## Boywonder2323

Hi everyone!
This is my first build post on OCN, so I figure I would show you guys what I most recently finished!
It's a modded NZXT Source 810, featuring Asus GTX 780, Asus Sabertooth Z87, Intel 4770k, Corsair RM 750, Samsung PRO 256gb SSD and Corsair 120mm fans throughout.
Cooling this beast is a custom loop powered by a D5 Strong with 1000mm (







) worth of radiator bringing the cpu up to 4.7 and the gpu up to 1300.
If you have any questions, just ask!!
Enjoy!












-Ben


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Yeah i have the same water blocks on my sli'd 760's and im really happy with them. Really good quality build and very nice back plates. Why do you not like them? Just curious


I have no empirical data to support my dislike of alphacool blocks. They just look cheap due to the way they sink the copper into the acrylic instead of using an all copper plate.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I got confused when the source suggested that these fittings are chrome, yet nickel plated brass.
> 
> I also require some help on finding a new Reservoir. At the moment, I'm using the Swiftech MCRES but it's starting to leak water through the glued seems. I've been looking at these cylindrical Reservoirs but I'm not sure where and how to install one in my current case.
> 
> Here is my case and current configuration:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.


Its nickel plated brass with a chrome finish









For reservoir, there are many good cylinder reservoirs out there, personally Im using Phobyas (sorry guys) seams high quality and functional.. also fits my case perfectly (5mm taller and it wouldnt fit







)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Something like this.. it has ports on the side (the ones you can see) and two in the bottom, witch I suggest you use.
I think you could also reroute your loop to make it cleaner, having inlet in the top of the res and outlet (to the pump) at the bottom. but then you cant use the top as filler port.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Its nickel plated brass with a chrome finish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For reservoir, there are many good cylinder reservoirs out there, personally Im using Phobyas (sorry guys) seams high quality and functional.. also fits my case perfectly (5mm taller and it wouldnt fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like this.. it has ports on the side (the ones you can see) and two in the bottom, witch I suggest you use.
> I think you could also reroute your loop to make it cleaner, having inlet in the top of the res and outlet (to the pump) at the bottom. but then you cant use the top as filler port.


Thanks for the suggestion.
The issue with cylinder Reservoirs is that it could collide with my side panel if I place one where the Swiftech is currently positioned.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boywonder2323*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> This is my first build post on OCN, so I figure I would show you guys what I most recently finished!
> It's a modded NZXT Source 810, featuring Asus GTX 780, Asus Sabertooth Z87, Intel 4770k, Corsair RM 750, Samsung PRO 256gb SSD and Corsair 120mm fans throughout.
> Cooling this beast is a custom loop powered by a D5 Strong with 1000mm (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) worth of radiator bringing the cpu up to 4.7 and the gpu up to 1300.
> If you have any questions, just ask!!
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Ben


Looks good, I like the custom work like the mid-plate.
You have a 360 up inside the case, a 360 hanging off the back and a 240 in the bottom? I think it would be cleaner if you had just used the 360 and 240 inside and didn't even bother with the 360 at the back. A 360 and 240 is plenty for a CPU and a single GPU.
Like I said though looks good just my


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> BP-DDCPC-BK Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355.....Available On 12th May
> 
> Features:
> 1. Unique Design.
> 2. Metal Case For Excellent Heat Dissipation.
> 3. High Durability Sandblasting Process In Anodize Treatment.
> 4. Rohs Compliant.
> 
> Dimensions: 62x62x30.3MM
> Color : Black.
> 
> Material :
> Aluminum.
> 
> Included :
> 1. Back Parts x 1PCS.
> 2. Thermal PAD x 1PCS.
> 3. Screw x 1Set.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does it come with feet to mount standing vertical? I see 4 holes at the bottom but no feet.


----------



## jpetrach

I need some creative help. i'm building a case and could use some style pointers. this is the base, its 6 pieces of .220 acrylic, primed in white on the inside. I am working on fitting, placement and mounting for everything. what i need help with is what can I do to the base to make it look better then plastic screwed together. I am making this because I enjoy building stuff and want something unique. but I am not very creative or artistic.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion.
> The issue with cylinder Reservoirs is that it could collide with my side panel if I place one where the Swiftech is currently positioned.


Mount it to the back wall and that should not be possible







I can think of at least 3 other locations you could put it.
Im guessing you want it in that location though since there is nothing else there.

You could also make some sort of spacer to the backwall to get the res closer to the front.
So many possibilities








Keep in mind that the res is not scaled.. it is not that big.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> And I thought $150 for a computer case was expensive.


Hell I am looking at getting a Cooler Master Cosmos 2... not as expensive as one of those CaseLabs cases but still not cheap.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Cleaned up the build a little bit today. Thinking about swapping out the tubing for white or black. Not quite sure yet. Any thoughts?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I need some creative help. i'm building a case and could use some style pointers. this is the base, its 6 pieces of .220 acrylic, primed in white on the inside. I am working on fitting, placement and mounting for everything. what i need help with is what can I do to the base to make it look better then plastic screwed together. I am making this because I enjoy building stuff and want something unique. but I am not very creative or artistic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a nice little bench you built yourself there. You could try some type of adhesive film, like that 3M Di-Noc stuff. Or I would just paint the outside of the panels as well to hide the screws.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Cleaned up the build a little bit today. Thinking about swapping out the tubing for white or black. Not quite sure yet. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey Stallion, haven't seen you around these parts much lately.

I think some Matte Black tubing would look killer in that case. Norprene or the EK ZMT tubing maybe? White could look good too, I just think Black and White themed builds are a little too overdone


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Cleaned up the build a little bit today. Thinking about swapping out the tubing for white or black. Not quite sure yet. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think that would look great with some white tubing. When I redid my loop a couple months ago I went from red to white and really like it.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Hey Stallion, haven't seen you around these parts much lately.
> 
> I think some Matte Black tubing would look killer in that case. Norprene or the EK ZMT tubing maybe?


Just been busy as I have the BAR coming up. I'll be back on more after that, probably around the time haswell-e drops
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I think that would look great with some white tubing. When I redid my loop a couple months ago I went from red to white and really like it.


That's what I was leaning towards as well. The red is just a little too much imo.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Just been busy as I have the BAR coming up. I'll be back on more after that, *probably around the time haswell-e drops*


Just in time for an epic new Stallion build


----------



## skupples

I would say you have the patience of a saint using that size tube to do the mother board.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Just in time for an epic new Stallion build


Indeed







I'm having trouble finding a case that will fit all of the watercooling I need, fit in my apt, and allow for a 28" surround setup. I tried caselabs sth10 but ended up having to sell that case since I couldn't fit it anywhere as the only place it could go wasn't strong enough to support a 100lb case. It makes me wish dangerden was still around so I could get something custom built again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would say you have the patience of a saint using that size tube to do the mother board.


I had no choice. Flow rate would be much too low with smaller tube. I need another pair of uber d5s, but it's hard to swallow as it would only drop temps a degree or two. Yes, it is an absolute pain in the butt. Next time I probably won't be using ram blocks as dominator platinum isn't compatible.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble finding a case that will fit all of the watercooling I need, fit in my apt, and allow for a 28" surround setup. I tried caselabs sth10 but ended up having to sell that case since I couldn't fit it anywhere as the only place it could go wasn't strong enough to support a 100lb case. It makes me wish dangerden was still around so I could get something custom built again.


I would love to see you build your own custom case.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I would love to see you build your own custom case.


We'll see. I just wish the TH10 came with 560 rad mounts. Really don't want to switch to 480s. That case would be perfect otherwise.


----------



## dallas1990

heres my phanteks ethoo primo case build. the res and pump is almost parallel but the res is slightly higher then the pump. i have a alphacool 420mm xt45 nexxxos as well as a 140mm xt45, then i used my old swiftech h220 rad (pump went out on me). my cpu block is EK Supremacy universal full copper block. my evga gtx 780ti classy (wishing i had a 2nd one) has a http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21600/ex-blc-1556/EK_EVGA_780_Classified_and_780_Ti_Classified_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-FC780_GTX_Classy_-_AcetalNickel.html?id=wrejnWT2&mv_pc=156 as well as the backplate. pump is http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16737/ex-pmp-203/Swiftech_MCP655_Variable_Speed_12v_Water_Pump_w_G14_Thread_Ports_Perfectly_Tapped.html?id=wrejnWT2&mv_pc=161.

all im using is a silver coil and distilled water and all compression fittings. the leds are nzxt hue rgb led strip. i want to replace them but im broke atm. (hard to save the $ for anything when all of it gets put in my pc)
as of overcloking im going to wait on that. i know my amd fx-8320 can hit 5.0 ghz i just need a 360 rad and a 2nd 240 rad then i will start the overclocking. i also need to think of a name for this build lol.

i also figured my problem on my temps. my ambient temp is about 25 degrees C.

anyways let me know what you all think.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's a pretty well known issue with eLoops. The manufacturer, Blacknoise, says they were not really designed to be used in 'pull'. Apparently using a shroud / gasket can be helpful.
> 
> Here's some previous discussion on this thread about the issue:
> They seem to be very nice fans otherwise, but for the prices they have been asking for them having these sorts of issues when used in pull on a rad is a bit ridiculous imho. It's not like they are not fully aware of the issue. Seems to me like a redesign has been long overdue, and they ought to slash the prices in half or more on all the current stock, not to mention, every advertisement for the fans probably ought to have some sort of a warning about the problem.


Rep'd. Thanks for the information. I'll leave them as they are for now and just turn them down.

They come with little rubber pads that I can double up if needed on the rads. (I did this to the back fan, and it made a dramatic improvement).

The two fans I have at the front are very loud also, but they're in Push. I think I may have just overtightened them, not letting the rubber do its job. I'll be gutting everything out when I setup my loop, so glad this controller has a 0-12v range per channel. Turning them off while idle is just magic. lol


----------



## skupples

Anyone remember who did the flow rate vs. Tube size review?


----------



## Pimphare

@Unicr0nhunter regarding eloops..

I have the B12-3 non-pwm models in push/pull on a 360 monsta mounted vertically without noise issues. I did hear something about the possibility of the fan blades hitting against a case or radiator fins due to their flush design. The rubber grommets provided should help with that. I also heard of a problem with them being mounted in pull on rads, but I don't know what the issue would be.

Maybe I got the luck of the draw. Haven't had any issues with them.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone remember who did the flow rate vs. Tube size review?


Is this it? It's the one i used when i picked my tubing size.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?147767-The-impact-of-tubing-sizes

There was one here on OCN, but it got removed.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I have 14 SP120 PWM quiet editions. I'm going to be redoing my build in my new case and don't want to hear anything! LOL Should I keep these or opt for *these*?
> 
> I'll be getting a fan controller to control them all.


Take care on your choice. PWM implementation on Corsair Fans are known to be off standard specs. So plan well on the fan controller side since you might end up not being able to control the corsair fan properly.


----------



## DoktorTerror

http://www.overclock.net/t/1465810/sponsored-mamba-540/0_20





http://www.overclock.net/t/1465810/sponsored-mamba-540/0_20


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I got confused when the source suggested that these fittings are chrome, yet nickel plated brass.
> 
> I also require some help on finding a new Reservoir. At the moment, I'm using the Swiftech MCRES but it's starting to leak water through the glued seems. I've been looking at these cylindrical Reservoirs but I'm not sure where and how to install one in my current case.
> 
> Here is my case and current configuration:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.


You might consider Ek tube reservoirs and also the aquacomputer ones. Mind the diameter of the tubes. Ek is around 60 mm (if memory serves), aquacomputer aqualis is 80 mm and they have a smaller version around 55 mm. All these numbers are from the top of my head so they might not be dead on target but close to. The Ek mount system is just one screw in the center of the clamp (x2) that hold the reservoir. So I would place your reservoir at the back panel (where the MB is) and if you dont´t have any holes there just drill it.

good luck


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You might consider Ek tube reservoirs and also the aquacomputer ones. Mind the diameter of the tubes. Ek is around 60 mm (if memory serves), aquacomputer aqualis is 80 mm and they have a smaller version around 55 mm. All these numbers are from the top of my head so they might not be dead on target but close to. The Ek mount system is just one screw in the center of the clamp (x2) that hold the reservoir. So I would place your reservoir at the back panel (where the MB is) and if you dont´t have any holes there just drill it.
> 
> good luck


Sounds reasonable.
Thanks man!
+1


----------



## Callist0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Cleaned up the build a little bit today. Thinking about swapping out the tubing for white or black. Not quite sure yet. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love this build! I bet it weighs a ton...


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You might consider Ek tube reservoirs and also the aquacomputer ones. Mind the diameter of the tubes. Ek is around 60 mm (if memory serves), aquacomputer aqualis is 80 mm and they have a smaller version around 55 mm. All these numbers are from the top of my head so they might not be dead on target but close to. The Ek mount system is just one screw in the center of the clamp (x2) that hold the reservoir. So I would place your reservoir at the back panel (where the MB is) and if you dont´t have any holes there just drill it.
> 
> good luck


Could you point the EK product you had in mind?
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Tube-Reservoirs-cid-2690.html
Thank you.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Could you point the EK product you had in mind?
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Tube-Reservoirs-cid-2690.html
> Thank you.


Sure mate

here we go. All ek tube reservoirs are the same (revision x3) you can even change the length of the tube latter if you want. Example you can buy a really small one (110mm) and latter decide you want a longer one and just replace the tube. I love the small aquacomputer too:

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Aquacomputer-Aqualis-ECO-150ml-Reservoir-with-Nano-Coating--34057-pid-18639.html

What I think you need to figure out is the length you want. Something that would fit in your case both in diameter and length.

here are some ek options:

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-RES-X3-150-6-Port-Reservoir--Acetal-pid-16886.html

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-RES-X3-250-6-Port-Reservoir--Acetal-pid-16887.html

hope it helps.

cheers

edit- one thing I like about ek reservoirs is the flexibility. You have several ports that you can use for in and out. You can even buy an add on to the top (another top and an acrylic tube) to allow the top ports to be used in your loop.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Sure mate
> 
> here we go. All ek tube reservoirs are the same (revision x3) you can even change the length of the tube latter if you want. Example you can buy a really small one (110mm) and latter decide you want a longer one and just replace the tube. I love the small aquacomputer too:
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Aquacomputer-Aqualis-ECO-150ml-Reservoir-with-Nano-Coating--34057-pid-18639.html
> 
> What I think you need to figure out is the length you want. Something that would fit in your case both in diameter and length.
> 
> here are some ek options:
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-RES-X3-150-6-Port-Reservoir--Acetal-pid-16886.html
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-RES-X3-250-6-Port-Reservoir--Acetal-pid-16887.html
> 
> hope it helps.
> 
> cheers
> 
> edit- one thing I like about ek reservoirs is the flexibility. You have several ports that you can use for in and out. You can even buy an add on to the top (another top and an acrylic tube) to allow the top ports to be used in your loop.


Great, this helped a lot!
+1.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> BP-DDCPC-BK Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355.....Available On 12th May
> 
> Features:
> 1. Unique Design.
> 2. Metal Case For Excellent Heat Dissipation.
> 3. High Durability Sandblasting Process In Anodize Treatment.
> 4. Rohs Compliant.
> 
> Dimensions: 62x62x30.3MM
> Color : Black.
> 
> Material :
> Aluminum.
> 
> Included :
> 1. Back Parts x 1PCS.
> 2. Thermal PAD x 1PCS.
> 3. Screw x 1Set.


Wood hit. Love the matte paint.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> What's you opinion on this : Black Ice GTS Stealth 140 Gen Two Stealth Single 140mm Fan Radiator G 1/4IN Threaded Black / 25$Can @NCIX
> 
> With a 140mm silent fan to go with it.


The GTS is not a great radiator for silence. Not unless it is a Nemesis GTS.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone remember who did the flow rate vs. Tube size review?


Cathar, the original god of watercooling. Did so much for watercooling community.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callist0*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I love this build! I bet it weighs a ton...


Thanks!







It's a bit over 120lbs according to the livestock scale we used. Now that rigid tubing is the thing I'd really like to switch, but the thought of buying ~100 bitspower fittings makes my wallet scared


----------



## luciddreamer124

Final pictures of "Project Magis"


----------



## DarthBaggins

Turned out amazing, really good work, nice and clean


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have no empirical data to support my dislike of alphacool blocks. They just look cheap due to the way they sink the copper into the acrylic instead of using an all copper plate.


Is this the gpu blocks? Which part is acrylic? Now you have me worried they looked and felt like all metal. Stainless steel and copper :S


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Playing around with new camera:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DizZz

That looks amazing @luciddreamer124! Excellent work


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> That looks amazing @luciddreamer124! Excellent work


I so agree..... A beautiful build...... When is MOTM.... I would like to nominate his build.... and hope someone nominates mine.....Russ


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/dopamine-cryptocurrency-mining-case-by-red-harbinger

What do you guys think about this for watercooling....?


----------



## sinnedone

Interesting, Its like a test bench grew into a case.


----------



## lowfat

Looks absolutely terrible for water cooling.


----------



## charliebrown

I would love a desk to much though this not for me


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Final pictures of "Project Magis"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a fine looking build!!


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble finding a case that will fit all of the watercooling I need, fit in my apt, and allow for a 28" surround setup. I tried caselabs sth10 but ended up having to sell that case since I couldn't fit it anywhere as the only place it could go wasn't strong enough to support a 100lb case. It makes me wish dangerden was still around so I could get something custom built again.
> I had no choice. Flow rate would be much too low with smaller tube. I need another pair of uber d5s, but it's hard to swallow as it would only drop temps a degree or two. Yes, it is an absolute pain in the butt. Next time I probably won't be using ram blocks as dominator platinum isn't compatible.


Mountain Mods still does custom cases







.

Looks like I have a bit of competition for heaviest rig







. I have mine on a metal file cabinet next to my computer desk since there is no room to set it on the floor where it belongs. Way too heavy to move comfortably by myself due to its size and height from the ground...have to lift it pretty much all with my back







.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Uh you guys have any advice on which D5 is better? The Swiftech MCP 655-PWM or the Alphacool VPP655.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Uh you guys have any advice on which D5 is better? The Swiftech MCP 655-PWM or the Alphacool VPP655.


Form what I've learned,,, Pretty much all D5 are the same... There's only two companies that make them. They are Strong and Laing each company like EK Swifttech just throws stickers on it...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> Form what I've learned,,, Pretty much all D5 are the same... There's only two companies that make them. They are Strong and Laing each company like EK Swifttech just throws stickers on it...


I am sorry but I never heard of any company named Strong making D5 pumps. D5 so far as I known is made by Laing. All brands actually place the sticker on the OEM Laing D5 pumps. "Strong" as been used to designate the D5 pumps running higher that 12v as most do at 16-24 v (aka Koolance). I might be wrong of course.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Uh you guys have any advice on which D5 is better? The Swiftech MCP 655-PWM or the Alphacool VPP655.


Different control but the same D5 pump as "midnightgypsy" pointed out. The Ek and Swiftech PWM D5 pumps will get the 12 v from the psu directly and have the ability to control its speed via PWM (although all d5 PWM pump implement PWM in an odd way not following PWM specs in a "normal" way). The other model is a vario model with a small knob that allow you to control the pump speed by changing the voltage supplied.

edit -I think XSPC also offer a PWM D5.


----------



## Shadowline2553

I am just trying to find the best, most practical pump for where it is going in my build, attached to an Alphacool Repack Dual 5.25" Acrylic Reservoir - Clear - For Single D5 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20790/ex-res-615/Alphacool_Repack_Dual_525_Acrylic_Reservoir_-_Clear_-_For_Single_D5_MCP655_15171.html?id=5QqIBzL5&mv_pc=36320)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> I am just trying to find the best, most practical pump for where it is going in my build, attached to an Alphacool Repack Dual 5.25" Acrylic Reservoir - Clear - For Single D5 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20790/ex-res-615/Alphacool_Repack_Dual_525_Acrylic_Reservoir_-_Clear_-_For_Single_D5_MCP655_15171.html?id=5QqIBzL5&mv_pc=36320)


as I said the PWM version will allow you to control the speed or set up profiles just like a pwm fan via software. Example Asus cough*crap* fanxpert software or even via BIOS. The Vario version will allow you to control the speed only via the small red knob at the back of the pump which might be cumbersome. But if you set and forget the speed at say level 3 (after bleeding the loop) you might not need to adjust speed anyway. It is a choice you have to take. Both are essentially the same pump but with different form of speed/flow control.

hope that helps.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> as I said the PWM version will allow you to control the speed or set up profiles just like a pwm fan via software. Example Asus cough*crap* fanxpert software or even via BIOS. The Vario version will allow you to control the speed only via the small red knob at the back of the pump which might be cumbersome. But if you set and forget the speed at say level 3 (after bleeding the loop) you might not need to adjust speed anyway. It is a choice you have to take. Both are essentially the same pump.
> 
> hope that helps.


Trying to make fun of my fan control software







From some reviews I've checked they say that the MCP655-PWM is one of the quietest pumps on the market, that is something that I am striving for, but I just wanted to check to see if my other option is better from people who have experience with them.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Trying to make fun of my fan control software
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From some reviews I've checked they say that the MCP655-PWM is one of the quietest pumps on the market, that is something that I am striving for, but I just wanted to check to see if my other option is better from people who have experience with them.


I have 2x d5 PWM and they are very quiet indeed. I also use the fanxpert







. I known I could try use the speedfan but never tried yet. But I am getting pretty exigent as for silence and let me tell you of my experience with fanexpert. While it does its job it seems to make the speed change just a little bit to make that annoying to me. So I jump into the Aquaero bandwagon hoping to have a powerful fan/system controller that would allow me to control the D5 PWM speed finely. Then, because I didn't research thoroughly I found on the hard way that the Aquaero would not control properly the PWM Laing D5 because of the PWM implementation not following intel recommendations.... So, yes it is a very quiet pump but be aware of the facts above.


----------



## GaMbi2004

So is the vario (witch im using).
Im kinda annoyed that I didnt get the PWM since I have plans on getting an Aquareo 5 LT
Other than that, it is dead silent at setting 4 out of 5, and I never change that, so actually not a big problem..

The only one who can say witch one is better for you, is yourself.. both are awesome pumps (more or less the same)
Vario can be controlled by the knob on the pump, PWM needs a controller / mobo connection.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> So is the vario (witch im using).
> Im kinda annoyed that I didnt get the PWM since I have plans on getting an Aquareo 5 LT
> Other than that, it is dead silent at setting 4 out of 5, and I never change that, so actually not a big problem..
> 
> The only one who can say witch one is better for you, is yourself.. both are awesome pumps (more or less the same)
> Vario can be controlled by the knob on the pump, PWM needs a controller / mobo connection.


Don't be sorry...The Aquaero will not control the d5 PWM properly unless you mod the 4 pin connector putting some resistor there. It is described in the Aquaero club.


----------



## charliebrown

What do you guys think of the white fittings I'm 50/50 it will have pastel red in loop


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of the white fittings I'm 50/50 it will have pastel red in loop


It's definitely Different. I think it looks ok, but I think it would look better if the sleeving had some white, or at least something else beside the Ram/PCIe retention clips, to accent the white.,


----------



## charliebrown

Same thing I was thinking I'm just gonna go with black


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of the white fittings I'm 50/50 it will have pastel red in loop


based on this picture, i'd leave it as it is. There's enough white in the lettering to and ram clips to justify white fittings.


----------



## charliebrown

A better pic to see my dilemma


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A better pic to see my dilemma


I'd go with either a black fitting or red personally dude!


----------



## charliebrown

I think black will be the one thanks guys


----------



## GaMbi2004

I think it looks good!


----------



## mrinfinit3

+1 Black or Red metallic fittings and add white lighting.
I would also black out your cpu block, but that's just me. Too much red is just over powering...I'll be getting rid of most of the red when I revamp later this week.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> A better pic to see my dilemma


My opinion on the overwhelming red is the waterblock. All the rest of the red works good, but the block is just standing out in a weird , lonely way... lol If the block was black or white it would be fresh.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> So is the vario (witch im using).
> Im kinda annoyed that I didnt get the PWM since I have plans on getting an Aquareo 5 LT
> Other than that, it is dead silent at setting 4 out of 5, and I never change that, so actually not a big problem..
> 
> The only one who can say witch one is better for you, is yourself.. both are awesome pumps (more or less the same)
> Vario can be controlled by the knob on the pump, PWM needs a controller / mobo connection.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Don't be sorry...The Aquaero will not control the d5 PWM properly unless you mod the 4 pin connector putting some resistor there. It is described in the Aquaero club.


Yeah Darlene (IT Diva) has several posts in the Aquaero Owners Club thread detailing a DIY fix for controlling a PWM D5 with the Aquaero and also a custom PCB she made ( the 'Diva Dapter') to resolve the issue that I believe she was planning on making available.

All that said, a better option imho would be the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor w/ USB and Aquabus Interface. If connects either to a USB header on your mobo or to an Aquaero controller, and you can control the pump with the free Aquasuite software whether or not you have an Aquaero. At least that's how I understand it so far. I just got one delivered yesterday but haven't had time to take it for a spin yet







...



Eventually I do plan on getting an Aquaero 6 XT, but for now I plan on hooking the pump up to my mobo and controlling it that way.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> A better pic to see my dilemma


what color will your liquid be?


----------



## charliebrown

Pastel red


----------



## Pimphare

@Shadowline2553

It doesn't matter which brand name of D5 pump you buy. They're all Laing pumps and perform equally. Now there are variations of the pump which are 655b (one speed only #4),655 variable (adjustable speed 1-5), and 655 PWM (controlled through fan header). All depends on what you prefer.

One thing to note: Swiftech D5s that come with a pump housing cannot be removed from the housing without voiding the warranty. The bare pumps they sell doesn't matter because well they're bare. I'm not sure about the other companies warranties.


----------



## VSG

The EK Asus R4BE monoblocks are out for sale on the EK website, soon with resellers I guess.


----------



## lowfat

Why are the circle versions only half finished?


----------



## skupples

So fugly.

Good marketing though. Makes people buy a new block for every board if they go that route.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So fugly.
> 
> Good marketing though. Make people buy a new block for every board.


Going to have to agree.

Maybe the plain black version will look ok, but the clear/nickel done look to nice. Sad, because I'm a bug nickel/acrylic fan too.

The bottom part doesn't have enough material to make the circles without making it either weak or hitting the coolant passages


----------



## BradleyW

Hey everyone!
Just wanted to ask something. If you strip the protective layer from copper, does it reform over time?
Thank you.


----------



## skupples

That doesn't make any sense. Don't the normal CSQ south bridges have circles? I could see the top circles interfering with the flow ports.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> Just wanted to ask something. If you strip the protective layer from copper, does it reform over time?
> Thank you.


Are you talking about blocks mate? What protective layer are you referring to?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you talking about blocks mate? What protective layer are you referring to?


This. AFAIK, there is no "protective layer" over the copper. The only time there is a layer of anything over the copper is when they are Nickle plated blocks


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you talking about blocks mate? What protective layer are you referring to?


Hello,
I'm referring to blocks and radiators.
The protective film is on copper and it's natural. That's all I know.
Thank you.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> Just wanted to ask something. If you strip the protective layer from copper, does it reform over time?
> Thank you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you talking about blocks mate? What protective layer are you referring to?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This. AFAIK, there is no "protective layer" over the copper. The only time there is a layer of anything over the copper is when they are Nickle plated blocks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm referring to blocks and radiators.
> The protective film is on copper and it's natural. That's all I know.
> Thank you.


Copper isn't a reactive metal like aluminum. Copper turns green when it oxidizes (and eventually degrades), but aluminum, when it oxidizes, stays the same color (and stops once its built that protective layer). But to the first post's question, yes, the protective layer will reform. (Aluminum, being a reactive metal, if placed in a vat of a weak acid will boil and give off gas, because it is unable to form the protective layer. That's why aluminum is a good helper agent in rocket motors and even why rubber + aluminum + sparks = fire.)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm referring to blocks and radiators.
> The protective film is on copper and it's natural. That's all I know.
> Thank you.


Ah. ok. The copper/brass inside the rads usually is a little bit oxidized. That is just fine since it protects the rad from further oxidation. If you use some mild acid the layer will be gone to some extent and will reforma again by oxidation. However, if you remove any layer of copper from either block or rad by whatever process (chemical or mechanical) you will discard that part of the copper with no reforming whatsoever. Hope this clarifies

cheers


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> Just wanted to ask something. If you strip the protective layer from copper, does it reform over time?
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you talking about blocks mate? What protective layer are you referring to?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This. AFAIK, there is no "protective layer" over the copper. The only time there is a layer of anything over the copper is when they are Nickle plated blocks
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm referring to blocks and radiators.
> The protective film is on copper and it's natural. That's all I know.
> Thank you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Copper isn't a reactive metal like aluminum. Copper turns green when it oxidizes (and eventually degrades), but aluminum, when it oxidizes, stays the same color (and stops once its built that protective layer). But to the first post's question, yes, the protective layer will reform. (Aluminum, being a reactive metal, if placed in a vat of a weak acid will boil and give off gas, because it is unable to form the protective layer. That's why aluminum is a good helper agent in rocket motors and even why rubber + aluminum + sparks = fire.)
Click to expand...

Incorrect.

Copper turns brown when oxidized naturally,it turns green in a acidic environment,this is known as verdigris.

Also,touching on Alu,when Alu is cut to a nano scale,it becomes explosive.


----------



## skupples

Thermite go boom. Aluminum powder + other stuff = big boom.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I love how this went from watercooling g topic over to explosions and fire all of a sudden.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thermite go boom. Aluminum powder + other stuff = big boom.


Thermite doenst go boom,it burns very slow compared to a true fast burn explosive.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thermite go boom. *Aluminum powder + other stuff = big boom.*


Which is why aluminum powder is used a lot in fireworks


----------



## Blackops_2




----------



## morencyam

I really like the look of that Bitspower block. The smoked acrylic top is dead sexy.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ah. ok. The copper/brass inside the rads usually is a little bit oxidized. That is just fine since it protects the rad from further oxidation. If you use some mild acid the layer will be gone to some extent and will reforma again by oxidation. However, if you remove any layer of copper from either block or rad by whatever process (chemical or mechanical) you will discard that part of the copper with no reforming whatsoever. Hope this clarifies
> 
> cheers


Sorry for my lack of knowledge here but I don't believe I fully understand your post.
It sounds like you can clean the copper and protective layer reforms, but it also never reforms on the part of the copper that's been cleaned.
Could you help me understand a bit better?
Thank you very much.

@Blackops_2
Nice gear. Can't wait to see it all installed.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I really like the look of that Bitspower block. The smoked acrylic top is dead sexy.


Agreed they just need pre-drilled LED holes.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Agreed they just need pre-drilled LED holes.


True, but that's an easy mod if you're careful not to drill in too far


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ah. ok. The copper/brass inside the rads usually is a little bit oxidized. That is just fine since it protects the rad from further oxidation. If you use some mild acid the layer will be gone to some extent and will reforma again by oxidation. However, if you remove any layer of copper from either block or rad by whatever process (chemical or mechanical) you will discard that part of the copper with no reforming whatsoever. Hope this clarifies
> 
> cheers
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for my lack of knowledge here but I don't believe I fully understand your post.
> It sounds like you can clean the copper and protective layer reforms, but it also never reforms on the part of the copper that's been cleaned.
> Could you help me understand a bit better?
> Thank you very much.
> 
> @Blackops_2
> Nice gear. Can't wait to see it all installed.
Click to expand...

When you remove the oxidization,the new copper oxidizes again,each time you lose a film of copper when you clean it. When oxidized,the copper has much greater resistance to further attack.
Think of it like a natural anodizing for copper.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you remove the oxidization,the new copper oxidizes again,each time you lose a film of copper when you clean it. When oxidized,the copper has much greater resistance to further attack.
> Think of it like a natural anodizing for copper.


Thanks for the clarification. +1 to those who helped me out.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> @Blackops_2
> Nice gear. Can't wait to see it all installed.


Thanks man








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> True, but that's an easy mod if you're careful not to drill in too far


Yeah i've never had to drill anything. Though i know JoeJoe got an 1/8th inch drill bit and modded his. I'd be afraid of myself messing up. I assume you'd have to do with a mounted drill or something that is likewise as stable.


----------



## psycho84

Acrylic Tubing ? Yes or No ?









Maybe a third GTX780 ?









Questions over Questions


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Sorry for my lack of knowledge here but I don't believe I fully understand your post.
> It sounds like you can clean the copper and protective layer reforms, but it also never reforms on the part of the copper that's been cleaned.
> Could you help me understand a bit better?
> Thank you very much.
> 
> @Blackops_2
> Nice gear. Can't wait to see it all installed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you remove the oxidization,the new copper oxidizes again,each time you lose a film of copper when you clean it. When oxidized,the copper has much greater resistance to further attack.
> Think of it like a natural anodizing for copper.


^^This. What I meant is that if you lap the block some copper material will be removed (gone). The same goes for chemical "attack". You will remove some of the layer and the oxidation will reform but doing so some of the copper was lost also in the initial attack.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Acrylic Tubing ? Yes or No ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a third GTX780 ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Questions over Questions


to me it looks great as it is. Are you using tygon tube correct?









edit- Ops, sorry. Should have edited my previous post to include this reply.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i've never had to drill anything. Though i know JoeJoe got an 1/8th inch drill bit and modded his. I'd be afraid of myself messing up. I assume you'd have to do with a mounted drill or something that is likewise as stable.


If you have a steady hand you could probably just use a normal drill. I drilled out a Bitspower Crystal plug to add an LED(I ordered on with an LED hole but received one without the hole) with just a hand drill and 3/16" drill bit. I just marked the drill bit with a piece of tape so I knew where to stop to keep me from drilling too deep. Worked out pretty well


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> to me it looks great as it is. Are you using tygon tube correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit- Ops, sorry. Should have edited my previous post to include this reply.


Jep. Tygon E3606 and Mayhems Pastel Red...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Jep. Tygon E3606 and Mayhems Pastel Red...


same here (tygon e1000) mate and I think is a killer combination. The tube has a nice clear visual and a nice effect due to the outer wall. I like it. I order also a bottle of black pastel concentrate and planning on adding to get a slight darker color.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i've never had to drill anything. Though i know JoeJoe got an 1/8th inch drill bit and modded his. I'd be afraid of myself messing up. I assume you'd have to do with a mounted drill or something that is likewise as stable.
> 
> 
> 
> If you have a steady hand you could probably just use a normal drill. I drilled out a Bitspower Crystal plug to add an LED(I ordered on with an LED hole but received one without the hole) with just a hand drill and 3/16" drill bit. I just marked the drill bit with a piece of tape so I knew where to stop to keep me from drilling too deep. Worked out pretty well
Click to expand...

This.

You can also use a soldering iron to make the hole but its a damn sight less neat if you do it wrong.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> same here (tygon e1000) mate and I think is a killer combination. The tube has a nice clear visual and a nice effect due to the outer wall. I like it. I order also a bottle of black pastel concentrate and planning on adding to get a slight darker color.


Be very very careful with the Black Pastel ! I would be getting very Dark with a minimum of the Black one. I would test it ouside in a Glas or something to get mix ratio...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Be very very careful with the Black Pastel ! I would be getting very Dark with a minimum of the Black one. I would test it ouside in a Glas or something to get mix ratio...


thks. Will do in steps of a few drops.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> thks. Will do in steps of a few drops.


You can also use Blue Dye. I tested it in a Small Glas with Red Paset (about 100ml of Pastel) and with 1 Drop from the Blue Dye it was nearly Black !


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> You can also use Blue Dye. I tested it in a Small Glas with Red Paset (about 100ml of Pastel) and with 1 Drop from the Blue Dye it was nearly Black !


Ouch







Ok will do in half a drop at each time....


----------



## skupples

made some changes.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> made some changes.


Looks so much better without that white tubing.


----------



## skupples




----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Acrylic Tubing ? Yes or No ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a third GTX780 ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Questions over Questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think it looks great as it is!


----------



## Arm3nian

Is there anyway to troubleshoot a d5 pump? Mine is making gurgling noises, especially at the faster speed settings. I took it apart and there doesn't seem much I can do.
Here is my model: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-acetal-incl-pump.html


----------



## skupples

cavitation, top on too tight, 90s on the out... ?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Is there anyway to troubleshoot a d5 pump? Mine is making gurgling noises, especially at the faster speed settings. I took it apart and there doesn't seem much I can do.
> Here is my model: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-acetal-incl-pump.html


I've got the exact same pump and the exact same issue. Which port are you using for the outlet? Speed setting 5 makes a giggling noise. However, 4 and below are silent.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Is there anyway to troubleshoot a d5 pump? Mine is making gurgling noises, especially at the faster speed settings. I took it apart and there doesn't seem much I can do.
> Here is my model: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-acetal-incl-pump.html


The same tip I give to BradleyW applies here. Are you sure the screws in the ek top are not to over tight? We all tend to screw those things all the way and exerting too much pressure with the idea of sealing really tight the top and avoid leaks (In fact the sealing is made by the o-ring and no need to exert too much pressure). However, in doing so the top can push down on the impeller creating a gurgling sound, specially at high speeds, with the side consequence of also hindering flow. So test outside your system and try to loose a little bit the screws to see if that solves your problem. It worked to me and I learned in the hard way. The tip was given to me by people at FrozenCPU (Geoff).


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> cavitation, top on too tight, 90s on the out... ?


I setup a test jig, res directly into pump, then a tube vertically up to the res.

Top seems fine. Inside the pump and under the magnetic sphere looking thing looks brand new.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The same tip I give to BradleyW applies here. Are you sure the screws in the ek top are not to over tight? We all tend to screw those things all the way and exerting too much pressure with the idea of sealing really tight the top and avoid leaks (In fact the sealing is made by the o-ring and no need to exert too much pressure). However, in doing so the top can push down on the impeller creating a gurgling sound, specially at high speeds, with the side consequence of also hindering flow. So test outside you system and try to loose a little bit the screws to see if that solves your problem. It worked to me and I learned in the hard way. The tip was given to me by people at FrozenCPU (Geoff).


Yes this is very valid. I am going to tear down my loop and investigate. Thank you.

Edit:

@Arm3nian
Which port are you using for the outlet?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The same tip I give to BradleyW applies here. Are you sure the screws in the ek top are not to over tight? We all tend to screw those things all the way and exerting too much pressure with the idea of sealing really tight the top and avoid leaks (In fact the sealing is made by the o-ring and no need to exert too much pressure). However, in doing so the top can push down on the impeller creating a gurgling sound, specially at high speeds, with the side consequence of also hindering flow. So test outside your system and try to loose a little bit the screws to see if that solves your problem. It worked to me and I learned in the hard way. The tip was given to me by people at FrozenCPU (Geoff).


Will try reassembling it with looser screws.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Yes this is very valid. I am going to tear down my loop and investigate. Thank you.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> @Arm3nian
> Which port are you using for the outlet?


Using middle one as inlet and the other one on the top of outlet.

Update: Seems like the gurgling occurs when the outlet is the port adjacent to the inlet in the middle. I can still here some minor swishing noises when connected to the front outlet port but it isn't much.


----------



## caraboose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I had i7-3770K @ 4200MHz and a GTX 660 Ti at reasonable temps in my FT03-mini with just an AX120 rad and fans ~1150rpm. After this screenshot was taken I realised the CPU block wasn't seated properly. Temps after fixing that hovered around 50C for the CPU while folding.


Where about in the case did you mount your radiator, as well as pump? I was thinking of putting the rad on top of the bottom fan, inside the case?


----------



## skupples

sigh, scythe decided to use really low quality headers on some of their fans... The result: Having to tape them to the also low quality Y splitters, still some of them don't want to hold connection. This is making me want to stab stuff.

(this is not a genuine threat, it is simply an example of level of frustration, i love you NSA)


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Pastel red


Go for it. With all of that red it won't look any different than if someone had a clear cpu block with pastel red running through it. I think the white is so prominent because flash


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The EK Asus R4BE monoblocks are out for sale on the EK website, soon with resellers I guess.


If they're going to use that monoblock setup for a black motherboard, they should have used my idea of having a matte black backing with an acrylic top, and punch a few LED holes to illuminate the innards:

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1936.jpg.html


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The EK Asus R4BE monoblocks are out for sale on the EK website, soon with resellers I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My my, those are gorgeous for monoblocks!


----------



## Devildog83

I have a question, while test fitting the waterblock, (SXPC Raystorm for AMD) I noticed that tightening the block down even a little bit that the acrylic cover bends a some. Is that normal or did I miss something?


----------



## skupples

I know this might sound a bit conspiracy theorist, but i'm pretty sure some of the last AP15s I got from FrozenCPU are actually AP14s w/ AP15 stickers. They are quieter, spin slower, but have AP15 stickers. I did the touch pitch test, and only 4 of them are visibly & audibly slower.(these were ordered from the last magical load they got in)


----------



## Jimhans1

@skupples step away from the green wacky tobacky.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I know this might sound a bit conspiracy theorist, but i'm pretty sure some of the last AP15s I got from FrozenCPU are actually AP14s w/ AP15 stickers. They are quieter, spin slower, but have AP15 stickers. I did the touch pitch test, and only 4 of them are visibly & audibly slower.(these were ordered from the last magical load they got in)


Test it with a multimeter. Ap14 should draw .049amps at 12v and ap15 should draw .083. Only way to find out for sure.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I have a question, while test fitting the waterblock, (SXPC Raystorm for AMD) I noticed that tightening the block down even a little bit that the acrylic cover bends a some. Is that normal or did I miss something?


verify that you put the thumb screw with the hollow side in first. That's what prevent over tightening,


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Test it with a multimeter. Ap14 should draw .049amps at 12v and ap15 should draw .083. Only way to find out for sure.


Definitely going to do that tomorrow. I know these like anything else are probably subject to silicon lottery, but the difference is too obvious to just be a "slow" fan. Anyways, off to put an order in w/ digikey, need to replace half of these headers, can't hide them if they come apart just by looking @ them.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Acrylic Tubing ? Yes or No ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a third GTX780 ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Questions over Questions


Dude it looks great like it is!







I wouldn't change a thing!


----------



## skupples

3x DDC @ 27%(almost off) = 430L/h....


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 3x DDC @ 27%(almost off) = 430L/h....


It's crazy what these little pumps can do. A single D5 can do 1500L/h lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> It's crazy what these little pumps can do. A single D5 can do 1500L/h lol


someone gotta screenshot of a single d5 doing that through 4 rads, 6 blocks, & 16 90 degree fittings?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Well, tidied up some stuff and redid my loop. Kinda turned out okay. Also still learning the ins-'n-outs of photography. One of these pictures is crappier than the other







!


----------



## morencyam

Those colors are amazing


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> someone gotta screenshot of a single d5 doing that through 4 rads, 6 blocks, & 16 90 degree fittings?


Nope, ddc better for restrictive loops. But I went for giant soft tubing and low restriction rads and blocks. And a d5 with my config will out perform ddcs and/or acrylic any day of the week.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Nope, ddc better for restrictive loops. But I went for giant soft tubing and low restriction rads and blocks. And a d5 with my config will out perform ddcs and/or acrylic any day of the week.


I'm sure. I did a mock up w/ only a few 90s, and it just look god awful, so I decided to go this route. Not sure why I picked up the third pump though... Likely one of those "it exists so lets do it" things.







I need to get off of my lazy hump & start practicing on this pile of copper tubing I have out in the garage.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm sure. I did a mock up w/ only a few 90s, and it just look god awful, so I decided to go this route. Not sure why I picked up the third pump though... Likely one of those "it exists so lets do it" things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get off of my lazy hump & start practicing on this pile of copper tubing I have out in the garage.


More flow the better, but the ddc outputs heat and it might add more heat to the loop then remove when you have so many pumps. If you have a water temp probe, go ahead and test it on idle and load.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> More flow the better, but the ddc outputs heat and it might add more heat to the loop then remove when you have so many pumps. If you have a water temp probe, go ahead and test it on idle and load.


Yeah, i'm working on that right now with just the loop & fans running.However, i'm using the EK DDC heatsink & replaced the stock thermal pads w/ Fujipoly, & i'm blasting air @ them, not to mention D5 supposedly dumps more heat into the water than DDC. Either way, I have 4x 480 radiators, so i'm not too worried about pump heat dump.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah, i'm working on that right now with just the loop & fans running.However, i'm using the EK DDC heatsink & replaced the stock thermal pads w/ Fujipoly, & i'm blasting air @ them, not to mention D5 supposedly dumps more heat into the water than DDC. Either way, I have 4x 480 radiators, so i'm not too worried about pump heat dump.


I'm guessing ddc isn't cooled by the water? You're right on the heat dump, seems like d5 consumes more power.

Simplest way to counteract this is to add more rads, as they benefit from the extra flow .


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 3x DDC @ 27%(almost off) = 430L/h....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> someone gotta screenshot of a single d5 doing that through 4 rads, 6 blocks, & 16 90 degree fittings?


That's not likely unless not in much of a loop. Even 3 X 35X at about 30% is less than 6 PSI at 1GPM or less than 3PSI at 2GPM. Pushing nearly 2 GPM through anything but but tubing only takes a lot of pressure.


----------



## Jameswalt1

"Parvum Titanfall"


----------



## Kurry

Wow! Nothing more to say


----------



## Pimphare

@Jameswalt1



Amazing work!!


----------



## skupples

I think James just redefined computer pron.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> "Parvum Titanfall"
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


pure art


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> "Parvum Titanfall"


Three pairs of pants are ruined because of you


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> "Parvum Titanfall"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three pairs of pants are ruined because of you
Click to expand...

Three? I think you may want to get that checked out









Looks great though James.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> "Parvum Titanfall"
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice finished build. Nice attention to detail.









One question if I may, What software do you use to make the videos and how long does it usually take you to make one?


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> "Parvum Titanfall"
> 
> Sick job James.


----------



## Devildog83

That is beautiful James, great work.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> "Parvum Titanfall"












Is this done with your DSLR? How did you do the pans?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Awesome @Jameswalt1








How did you get that "moving effect" in the coolant? (reservoir especially)


----------



## Jameswalt1

Thanks everyone!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this done with your DSLR? How did you do the pans?


Yeah, with my 70D. I used a glidetrack for movement








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Awesome @Jameswalt1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you get that "moving effect" in the coolant? (reservoir especially)


It's Mayhems Aurora coolant


----------



## VSG

How's the new Aurora treating you? Is this the special batch that Mick cooked up?


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

ok well, we can all leave this forum now. james wins.


----------



## charliebrown

See this right here is the reason I love custom pcs good work James


----------



## ds84

Can someone with a physical UT60 confirm that the overall thickness of it is at 60mm? Coz my monsta is at 85mm thick in which it should be 80mm.. Thanks.


----------



## VSG

The Monsta rads have a 3mm shell on each side so it should be 86mm thick total. I am also pretty sure the UT60 is indeed 60mm thick.


----------



## BramSLI1

Really impressive work James. You should be very proud of this work of art that you've produced.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

I need 2 "T" for my setup. Where would you suggest I get them. I've looked on NCIX and on EKWB with no luck.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I need 2 "T" for my setup. Where would you suggest I get them. I've looked on NCIX and on EKWB with no luck.


Dazmode is up in Canada. Did you try their site? https://www.dazmode.com/store/


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Dazmode is up in Canada. Did you try their site? https://www.dazmode.com/store/


I just checked and no, no "T" fittings. Or am I looking at the wrong place?


----------



## Destrto

Performance-pcs.com has some bitspower T fittings. *LINK*


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Performance-pcs.com has some bitspower T fittings. *LINK*


Thanks, do you think they would work with the EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 - Black that I already got?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> I just checked and no, no "T" fittings. Or am I looking at the wrong place?


Look at daz mode again in the "angled fittings adapters" section under the fittings category. I found a whole bunch.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Thanks, do you think they would work with the EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 - Black that I already got?


They are all G1/4" thread, so yea, they would fit.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Look at daz mode again in the "angled fittings adapters" section under the fittings category. I found a whole bunch.


Thanks

Found them, but I don't know which ones would go well with my EK 10/13mm fittings.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Found them, but I don't know which ones would go well with my EK 10/13mm fittings.


What exactly do you need a T fitting for?


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What exactly do you need a T fitting for?


I'm going to be splitting my flow from my pump to my 2 radiators and I need one for my reservoir for intake from my CPU and from my GPU/RAM.


----------



## Dortheleus

I got an other question for you all.

I may have found my ±6" wide reservoir but I would need to drill holes in it for the in and out and I was wondering if you, the ones that have made your own res, could tell/show me how you solved this issue??

Cheers


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> "Parvum Titanfall"


What a cracking video,I do not have the patience for all that editing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Can someone with a physical UT60 confirm that the overall thickness of it is at 60mm? Coz my monsta is at 85mm thick in which it should be 80mm.. Thanks.


I really don't know why so many retailers do advertise the Monsta as being 80mm thick when the official specs for the Monsta on the Alphacool site and in the technical drawings (PDF) for the rad have always showed them as being 85mm thick for as long as I can remember.

The UT60 thickness is listed as 60 mm, and the technical drawing (PDF) has it at 59.5mm.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> I got an other question for you all.
> 
> I may have found my ±6" wide reservoir but I would need to drill holes in it for the in and out and I was wondering if you, the ones that have made your own res, could tell/show me how you solved this issue??
> 
> Cheers


You may find this helpful. I know I have:

How To Make Your Own Watercooling Reservoir
http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/1


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You may find this helpful. I know I have:
> 
> How To Make Your Own Watercooling Reservoir
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/1


Thanks a lot, yes this will help big time.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Hi everyone.. I made an update. I am now running Primoflex Advanced LRT, mayhem green (used a lot less than I thought I would, lol) dual D5 Varios, triple Classies and a 750ti (that is water-cooled... Yeah... (more of a folding thing) and I also need to resleeve a few more cables.

Please, don't think I am going to be bother if someone says something about my cute little water cooled 750ti when there is 3 big cards above it... I don't mind. This is more of an experiment, as I love experimenting.

I also added the Maltese Cross aluminum (didn't look at the design, too lazy to wait for more) to cover up some of the old wires that were hanging out.



Also Bumped up from 3/8x5/8 to 1/2x3/4. I do not like the placement of the inlet for the Triple Parallel Terminal, and to use it with the 750Ti down there, I had to use the primochill 90 degrees adapter and an EK 45.. I don't like how it looks at all.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What a cracking video,I do not have the patience for all that editing.


Thanks sir! Yeah editing is either love it or hate it, personally I absolutely love doing it. This was a pain though, orange is pretty much the worst color of all time to capture in video or photos and have to color correct.

Usually when I edit something I sit in limbo toying with it for a few hours until I get a certain mojo going and get a sense of direction with the video, then it goes fast.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What a cracking video,I do not have the patience for all that editing.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks sir! Yeah editing is either love it or hate it, personally I absolutely love doing it. This was a pain though, orange is pretty much the worst color of all time to capture in video or photos and have to color correct.
> 
> Usually when I edit something I sit in limbo toying with it for a few hours until I get a certain mojo going and get a sense of direction with the video, then it goes fast.
Click to expand...

Good...you can do mine then,thanks for 'volunteering'.









Disclaimer: Magoo says you are not actually volunteering as such,more indentured slavery... Do not machine wash,tumble dry low,YMMV. Magoo reserves the right to end your existence at any time he sees fit,biscuits will of course be welcomed and may delay the inevitable. Pressure cap,open away from body.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good...you can do mine then,thanks for 'volunteering'.


Lol, sure any time! (actually serious, any time)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good...you can do mine then,thanks for 'volunteering'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, sure any time! (actually serious, any time)
Click to expand...

If you can make a flip cam look like Spielberg is waving it about then we may have to talk further.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you can make a flip cam look like Spielberg is waving it about then we may have to talk further.


Haha, "Spielberg waving it about",


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Hi everyone.. I made an update. I am now running Primoflex Advanced LRT, mayhem green (used a lot less than I thought I would, lol) dual D5 Varios, triple Classies and a 750ti (that is water-cooled... Yeah... (more of a folding thing) and I also need to resleeve a few more cables.
> 
> Please, don't think I am going to be bother if someone says something about my cute little water cooled 750ti when there is 3 big cards above it... I don't mind. This is more of an experiment, as I love experimenting.
> 
> I also added the Maltese Cross aluminum (didn't look at the design, too lazy to wait for more) to cover up some of the old wires that were hanging out.
> 
> 
> 
> Also Bumped up from 3/8x5/8 to 1/2x3/4. I do not like the placement of the inlet for the Triple Parallel Terminal, and to use it with the 750Ti down there, I had to use the primochill 90 degrees adapter and an EK 45.. I don't like how it looks at all.


Wow, never seen the pump way up there. Hard to get it filled and bled? Sweet Ti build there btw


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, never seen the pump way up there. Hard to get it filled and bled? Sweet Ti build there btw


That's what I first thought, but on second take it looks like there's 2 D5s, one near the bottom of the res, and another near the top.


----------



## skupples

X1-Clear = Whiskey?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's what I first thought, but on second take it looks like there's 2 D5s, one near the bottom of the res, and another near the top.


+1










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, never seen the pump way up there. Hard to get it filled and bled? Sweet Ti build there btw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's what I first thought, but on second take it looks like there's 2 D5s, one near the bottom of the res, and another near the top.


you can't see the other pump.. the one under the res is for primary and the one at the top is to help. I found when I was using the MCP35x, that there was always airbubbles. So, I found a mount from Alphacool, and mounted the D5 at the top and one at the bottom.. I don't run the top pump until the loop is completely full and just fighting airbubbles at that point. Once everything is starting to settle, I power the second pump and it vacuums all of the extra bubble out, instantly bleeding any air bubbles.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A little teaser for tomorrow.....





3M is <3


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Hi everyone.. I made an update. I am now running Primoflex Advanced LRT, mayhem green (used a lot less than I thought I would, lol) dual D5 Varios, triple Classies and a 750ti (that is water-cooled... Yeah... (more of a folding thing) and I also need to resleeve a few more cables.
> 
> Please, don't think I am going to be bother if someone says something about my cute little water cooled 750ti when there is 3 big cards above it... I don't mind. This is more of an experiment, as I love experimenting.
> 
> I also added the Maltese Cross aluminum (didn't look at the design, too lazy to wait for more) to cover up some of the old wires that were hanging out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also Bumped up from 3/8x5/8 to 1/2x3/4. I do not like the placement of the inlet for the Triple Parallel Terminal, and to use it with the 750Ti down there, I had to use the primochill 90 degrees adapter and an EK 45.. I don't like how it looks at all.


You couldn't do a rotary 90 from out of the bottom of the Bridge and just a short bit of tube into the 750 ti?

Nevermind, it seems that block doesn't have any bottom ports.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> You couldn't do a rotary 90 from out of the bottom of the Bridge and just a short bit of tube into the 750 ti?
> 
> Nevermind, it seems that block doesn't have any bottom ports.


I actually requested EK to add a port to the bottom on the Parallel Terminals, as all other bridges and terminals (including the series terminal) have bottom ports. If I could get a port at the base of the terminal, I would be ecstatic. What I need to know, is: who can port this terminal for me? I will ship it to the person and a few bucks plus the shipping to have it forwarded along.

I don't like that EK refuses a bottom port on this series, but no one complains about it, so they won't fix it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I actually requested EK to add a port to the bottom on the Parallel Terminals, as all other bridges and terminals (including the series terminal) have bottom ports. If I could get a port at the base of the terminal, I would be ecstatic. What I need to know, is: who can port this terminal for me? I will ship it to the person and a few bucks plus the shipping to have it forwarded along.
> 
> I don't like that EK refuses a bottom port on this series, but no one complains about it, so they won't fix it.


Make them yourself







. G1/4 tap and bit are not too expensive. worth a shot


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Make them yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . G1/4 tap and bit are not too expensive. worth a shot


I have tried Tapping before.. it didn't end well, lol.

I do have the Dual parallel sitting here.. I would like to sell it, but I doubt anyone would want to pay for it, with nothing else coming with it.

I may try it on that, if I can find the correct size drill bit and tap at work. I wouldn't know where to go to buy them if I had to.


----------



## wermad

Ebay









G1/4 + 11.8mm bit. I would recommend a drill press (which seems like you'll have access to one). I purchased mine from mcmastercarr.com. A bit pricey but i didn't realize ebay had them too. Acetal should be easier to mill (vs plexi).


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Make them yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . G1/4 tap and bit are not too expensive. worth a shot


This. Should be pretty easy as the acetal(or delrin? I'm not sure what material it is) caps are fairly soft material and should be easy to drill through. You would need a 11.8mm drill bit and part number 8328A22 from McMaster.com you would want to drill a small pilot hole to keep the larger bit centered


----------



## skupples

I need some advice... I picked up an extender for the CPU>>Mobo 8 pin. The PSU male to extender female fits together, but the male to mobo female doesn't fit. Since the gauge & the pinning is the same I should have no issues w/ filing it down to make it fit, correct?


----------



## wermad

Double check it ain't a pcie 8-pin


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I really don't know why so many retailers do advertise the Monsta as being 80mm thick when the official specs for the Monsta on the Alphacool site and in the technical drawings (PDF) for the rad have always showed them as being 85mm thick for as long as I can remember.
> 
> The UT60 thickness is listed as 60 mm, and the technical drawing (PDF) has it at 59.5mm.


That is reassuring enough. Thanks a lot.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Double check it ain't a pcie 8-pin


I honestly don't remember which it is now... Went back to look @ the Bitsphoenix page on PPC. All they have is the GPU one, but the wires are the same size, & the pinning is the same...


----------



## phynce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I actually requested EK to add a port to the bottom on the Parallel Terminals, as all other bridges and terminals (including the series terminal) have bottom ports. If I could get a port at the base of the terminal, I would be ecstatic. What I need to know, is: who can port this terminal for me? I will ship it to the person and a few bucks plus the shipping to have it forwarded along.
> 
> I don't like that EK refuses a bottom port on this series, but no one complains about it, so they won't fix it.


You could reverse your loops flow and flip the terminal like I did I've ran it both ways and seen no difference in temps


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I honestly don't remember which it is now... Went back to look @ the Bitsphoenix page on PPC. All they have is the GPU one, but the wires are the same size, & the pinning is the same...


Usually, these are sold in 4+4 for the cpu. Easy test, take the extension and plug into your gpu's 8-pin. Obviously, you don't wanna have the whole system powered on when you test this, just in case







.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phynce*
> 
> You could reverse your loops flow and flip the terminal like I did I've ran it both ways and seen no difference in temps


I have considered that. Although my pump is upside down, I tried to avoid that just for the aesthetics of the writing being upside down, lol. It I pull it apart later, I will be flipping it so that it enters the bottom and frees up the probeit connector on the last card.


----------



## Pimphare

Has anyone here used a monsoon rotary angle fitting coupled to a primochill acrylic compression fitting? If so, could you post a pic of it and state what the sizes are? I'm curious as to how flush the outsise diameter lines up with one another.

Basically what I need is a white 45° and/or 90° angled rotary to couple my primochill 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD acrylic fittings.

Monsoon angled rotary:


Primochill acrylic fitting:


----------



## Wolfsbora

If I decide to go with rigid acrylic, what is the best tubing out there? I don't mind spending more if it means better quality. Same goes with fittings. Should I stick with Bitspower or go with something else?


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> If I decide to go with rigid acrylic, what is the best tubing out there? I don't mind spending more if it means better quality. Same goes with fittings. Should I stick with Bitspower or go with something else?


I've been waiting for PETG to become widely available


----------



## skupples

I think the jury is still out on PTEG, mostly on how well it ages/fades/yellows


----------



## charliebrown

I'm using some acrylic I got from mcmaster cheaper than most


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> If I decide to go with rigid acrylic, what is the best tubing out there? I don't mind spending more if it means better quality. Same goes with fittings. Should I stick with Bitspower or go with something else?


I suppose any of it will be fine. Just depends on what you want. You can get clear acrylic tubing from Mcmaster. Com. http://www.mcmaster.com/

I'm using Primochill acrylic tubing with Primochill ghost fittings and it works great.

Oh and don't forget to get a silicone tube insert for bending the acrylic along with a heat gun. You'll have hell trying to make your bends without the insert.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I've been waiting for PETG to become widely available
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


FWIW Primochill now has PETG tubing. But ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think the jury is still out on PTEG, mostly on how well it ages/fades/yellows


^ This.

Yep, because PETG is not UV resistant like acrylic. It's also supposed to be hydroscopic (absorbs water) like flexible tubing does so may also be prone to staining and leeching or even some plasticizer type issues. That said, I've not seen anyone report any such problems with it yet. Those are just two of the more glaring characteristics that differentiate PETG from acrylic that some have speculated may cause issues in the long run. PETG is a lot stronger and reportedly easier to bend. It's still really too new to tell whether it's a suitable / better alternative to acrylic or not.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I'm also using McMaster Carr, works great.


----------



## GaMbi2004

I dont know much about the PETG ether.. just heard that it should be stronger.. but I dont really see why you want anything stronger than acrylic? if you expose your computer to forces that would break acrylic, you are doing something wrong.

I would say, choose a fitting, and go with their brand of acrylic








I chose monsoons hard lock to ensure that the acrylic wouldnt pop out under transportation to LAN etc.. and therefore also monsoon acrylic


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think the jury is still out on PTEG, mostly on how well it ages/fades/yellows


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW Primochill now has PETG tubing. But ...
> ^ This.
> 
> Yep, because PETG is not UV resistant like acrylic. It's also supposed to be hydroscopic (absorbs water) like flexible tubing does so may also be prone to staining and leeching or even some plasticizer type issues. That said, I've not seen anyone report any such problems with it yet. Those are just two of the more glaring characteristics that differentiate PETG from acrylic that some have speculated may cause issues in the long run. PETG is a lot stronger and reportedly easier to bend. It's still really too new to tell whether it's a suitable / better alternative to acrylic or not.


These are all reasons why I think I'll stick with acrylic for now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> I'm using some acrylic I got from mcmaster cheaper than most


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I suppose any of it will be fine. Just depends on what you want. You can get clear acrylic tubing from Mcmaster. Com. http://www.mcmaster.com/
> 
> I'm using Primochill acrylic tubing with Primochill ghost fittings and it works great.
> 
> Oh and don't forget to get a silicone tube insert for bending the acrylic along with a heat gun. You'll have hell trying to make your bends without the insert.


Those Primochill Ghost Compressions look great, I would prefer to get them in black nickel thoughFound them in black nickel!... I've seen some terrible bends without the silicone tube. Definitely a must have!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm also using McMaster Carr, works great.


I'll have to look at McMaster-Carr and Primochill. Is it the "Optically Clear and Colored Cast Acrylic" from McMaster that I'm looking for? If so, damn that is expensive per foot!


----------



## charliebrown

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/=rwpkhb


----------



## charliebrown

$4 per 6ft


----------



## charliebrown

http://www.mcmaster.com/#96505k27/=rwpn8k


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> I dont know much about the PETG ether.. just heard that it should be stronger.. but I dont really see why you want anything stronger than acrylic? if you expose your computer to forces that would break acrylic, you are doing something wrong.
> 
> I would say, choose a fitting, and go with their brand of acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chose monsoons hard lock to ensure that the acrylic wouldnt pop out under transportation to LAN etc.. and therefore also monsoon acrylic


Just watched a chunk of the Monsoon Hardline fittings, definitely impressive. I won't be transporting or moving my PC anywhere, however, my 6 month old will be walking in the not-too-distant future so these are definitely being considered. I'd mostly be worried about the thickness of these not working in some tight spaces.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/=rwpkhb $4 per 6ft http://www.mcmaster.com/#96505k27/=rwpn8k


Thank you, Chuck Brown! Those prices are MUCH better.









I sprinkled some rep around!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I need some advice... I picked up an extender for the CPU>>Mobo 8 pin. The PSU male to extender female fits together, but the male to mobo female doesn't fit. Since the gauge & the pinning is the same I should have no issues w/ filing it down to make it fit, correct?


If that extension is for pcie 8-pin, the connector is notched to NOT let it fit an 8-pin CPU socket.


----------



## charliebrown

Thanks order you should get 24 feet wish I did my bends still look good though


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If that extension is for pcie 8-pin, the connector is notched to NOT let it fit an 8-pin CPU socket.


nothing a razor blade can't fix.







anyways, ordered the wrong thing, EPS cable otw.


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, I had a couple of questions about my new loop. So I started a thread on it instead of hijacking this one.. If anyone is around and feels like helping me out I would appreciate it.

Link


----------



## Pimphare

@Wolfsbora
One more thing.. Here's a pic of the Monsoon stuff I posted a few days ago.
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/66930#post_22210886
Just wanted to share that with you in case you haven't look at Monsoon yet. I personally love their fittings and if their hardline stuff was out back when I threw my loop together, I would've definitely went with them.

With that said, I'm perfectly happy with Primochill.


----------



## GaMbi2004

And here is how the monsoon hard lock + chain gun fittings looks in my build (probably 3rd or 4th time I post pics.. sorry about that)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Devildog83

I think I got the hang of it -


----------



## Jeronbernal

hey all, here's my contribution


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I think I got the hang of it -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awefully dark pic, but looks like 2x perfect 90 degree acrylic bends to me








awesome job! well done


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> hey all, here's my contribution
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very sweet - What are you using for coolant?


----------



## Jeronbernal

Mayhem's Pastel Ice White, with a very TIIINY drop of mayhems deep red dye, add's a little... how do i say... fluorescent look?

The drop was on accident from leftover dye, but i could be wrong about the fluorescent thing. it just looks different from my last pastel white build.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @Wolfsbora
> One more thing.. Here's a pic of the Monsoon stuff I posted a few days ago.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/66930#post_22210886
> Just wanted to share that with you in case you haven't look at Monsoon yet. I personally love their fittings and if their hardline stuff was out back when I threw my loop together, I would've definitely went with them.
> 
> With that said, I'm perfectly happy with Primochill.


I actually remember reading those posts! They do look good. I need to look into the size difference. As long as they aren't too thick I may go with them.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Mayhem's Pastel Ice White, with a very TIIINY drop of mayhems deep red dye, add's a little... how do i say... fluorescent look?
> 
> The drop was on accident from leftover dye, but i could be wrong about the fluorescent thing. it just looks different from my last pastel white build.


I was wondering because that is what I bought for my loop, now I know what it will look like.


----------



## kvickstick

*Case:* Corsair Carbide Air 540
*Radiators:* XSPC RX360 + XSPC RX240
*CPU:* EK-Supremacy - Copper/Acetal + EK-PreciseMount Add-On
*GPU:* EK-FC Titan - Copper/Acetal + EK-FC Titan Backplate
*Pump/Reservoir:* EK-D5 Vario + EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal
*Fittings:* 10/16mm Bitspower compression fittings + Bitspower stop plugs/mini valve
*Tubing/Liquid:* 10/16mm PrimoChill LRT Crystal Clear + Mayhems Pastel Orange
*Fans:* Cougar Vortex CF-V12S


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> And here is how the monsoon hard lock + chain gun fittings looks in my build (probably 3rd or 4th time I post pics.. sorry about that)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That I a damn nice setup! I hope that I can achieve those bends. Did you run into any size issues with those fittings?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kvickstick*
> 
> *Case:* Corsair Carbide Air 540
> *Radiators:* XSPC RX360 + XSPC RX240
> *CPU:* EK-Supremacy - Copper/Acetal + EK-PreciseMount Add-On
> *GPU:* EK-FC Titan - Copper/Acetal + EK-FC Titan Backplate
> *Pump/Reservoir:* EK-D5 Vario + EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal
> *Fittings:* 10/16mm Bitspower compression fittings + Bitspower stop plugs/mini valve
> *Tubing/Liquid:* 10/16mm PrimoChill LRT Crystal Clear + Mayhems Pastel Orange
> *Fans:* Cougar Vortex CF-V12S


Beautiful build you have there. Do you have a build log or anything?(I'm on my phone so I can't see if there is a link in your sig)


----------



## Destrto

That orange fluid in the clear tubing reminds of these old fishing lures I used to use. Lol.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I was wondering because that is what I bought for my loop, now I know what it will look like.


Good choice, i always loved the Pastel coolants from mayhems, looks great

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kvickstick*
> 
> *Case:* Corsair Carbide Air 540
> *Radiators:* XSPC RX360 + XSPC RX240
> *CPU:* EK-Supremacy - Copper/Acetal + EK-PreciseMount Add-On
> *GPU:* EK-FC Titan - Copper/Acetal + EK-FC Titan Backplate
> *Pump/Reservoir:* EK-D5 Vario + EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal
> *Fittings:* 10/16mm Bitspower compression fittings + Bitspower stop plugs/mini valve
> *Tubing/Liquid:* 10/16mm PrimoChill LRT Crystal Clear + Mayhems Pastel Orange
> *Fans:* Cougar Vortex CF-V12S


that orange looks THE BUSINESS in clear tubing


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Mayhem's Pastel Ice White, with a very TIIINY drop of mayhems deep red dye, add's a little... how do i say... fluorescent look?
> 
> The drop was on accident from leftover dye, but i could be wrong about the fluorescent thing. it just looks different from my last pastel white build.


Looks like skim milk lol. Great looking build!


----------



## kvickstick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Beautiful build you have there. Do you have a build log or anything?(I'm on my phone so I can't see if there is a link in your sig)


Thanks! No, there is sadly no build log








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That orange fluid in the clear tubing reminds of these old fishing lures I used to use. Lol.


How appropriate!


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Looks like skim milk lol. Great looking build!


XD thanks! i prefer 2% but hey!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kvickstick*
> 
> *Case:* Corsair Carbide Air 540
> *Radiators:* XSPC RX360 + XSPC RX240
> *CPU:* EK-Supremacy - Copper/Acetal + EK-PreciseMount Add-On
> *GPU:* EK-FC Titan - Copper/Acetal + EK-FC Titan Backplate
> *Pump/Reservoir:* EK-D5 Vario + EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal
> *Fittings:* 10/16mm Bitspower compression fittings + Bitspower stop plugs/mini valve
> *Tubing/Liquid:* 10/16mm PrimoChill LRT Crystal Clear + Mayhems Pastel Orange
> *Fans:* Cougar Vortex CF-V12S


So very clean! Great build, great use of orange!


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kvickstick*
> 
> Thanks! No, there is sadly no build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How appropriate!


is that the new pre mixed orange, or the older concentrate?


----------



## Pimphare

^this
I am also curious. It matches the Cougar Vortex fans perfectly. Just gorgeous


----------



## skupples

Can someone help me with finding 3 pin female fan terminals on digi-key? I feel like a one eyed toothless hill billy digging through this website. Doesn't help that what I think may be it doesn't have a product image. I have to replace the terminals on 12 of my fans as they just wont stay in place no matter what I do. The other 16 fans have a perfect tactile click when popping into the Y splitters.


----------



## kvickstick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> So very clean! Great build, great use of orange!


Thanks a bunch!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> is that the new pre mixed orange, or the older concentrate?


It's the new premix, the old orange was called Gigabyte Orange if i recall correctly. I've never used any Mayhems concentrate only premix.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> ^this
> I am also curious. It matches the Cougar Vortex fans perfectly. Just gorgeous


As i understand, it is the new premix. The old version was called Gigabyte Orange


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> And here is how the monsoon hard lock + chain gun fittings looks in my build (probably 3rd or 4th time I post pics.. sorry about that)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you use this Monsoon Hardline UV Cure Adhesive with those fittings?

Will these fittings work with the McMaster-Carr UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube? I read somewhere that Monsoon uses metric and that can cause a slight size difference to the imperial measurement that McMaster uses.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Can someone help me with finding 3 pin female fan terminals on digi-key? I feel like a one eyed toothless hill billy digging through this website. Doesn't help that what I think may be it doesn't have a product image. I have to replace the terminals on 12 of my fans as they just wont stay in place no matter what I do. The other 16 fans have a perfect tactile click when popping into the Y splitters.


I don't know about that site,maybe try here.http://www.moddiy.com/products/modDIY-Female-3%252dPin-Fan-Connector-%28Molex-%232510%29-with-Pins.html


----------



## skupples

thx, +1


----------



## pc-illiterate

@skupples http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/3pinheaderkit.html .20 each or 10 for $1.50 just the connector though they are white. the pins are .15 EACH
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fepifor3he.html

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fancuca.html


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> @skupples http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/3pinheaderkit.html .20 each or 10 for $1.50 just the connector though they are white. the pins are .15 EACH
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fepifor3he.html
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fancuca.html


Thanks... I was hoping to avoid the retailers under the impression they would be less from digikey, but I ended up placing an order w/ PPC for the same old reasons, mostly being the $8 overnight shipping, & the fact that they had 4 different makes all @ .25 a piece. (epic run on sentence ftw)

+1

Next time I rebuild i'm going to make all of my own extensions using these, as they seem to have the BEST grip out of everything iv'e come across.


----------



## charliebrown

Ok guys finished my look but got a leak unsure how to fix



Also ran out of pastel but my res needs a little more if I add just a little bit of water more than 750ml will that be bad


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Did some more graphic work yesterday afternoon



I woke up at 4am today with the thought of how much I hate it...I made the noob mistake of getting all excited and just doing it rather than taking my time and getting it right...

Stripping off 3M film is a nightmare,the glue is soooo good. However,stripping it at 4am is worse....still its done now and the paint wasnt damaged like last time,the glue must not have grabbed properly.

Now back to the design board....thinner,subtle lettering rather than the block I had before...


----------



## Jeronbernal

looks good


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks... I was hoping to avoid the retailers under the impression they would be less from digikey, but I ended up placing an order w/ PPC for the same old reasons, mostly being the $8 overnight shipping, & the fact that they had 4 different makes all @ .25 a piece. (epic run on sentence ftw)
> 
> +1
> 
> Next time I rebuild i'm going to make all of my own extensions using these, as they seem to have the BEST grip out of everything iv'e come across.


i've always wondered... how does the wire stay attached to that connector (not 3pin connector side)? solder? it doesn't seem to have any crimp points, unless im looking at the picture wrong


----------



## kingchris

yes its soldered


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks... I was hoping to avoid the retailers under the impression they would be less from digikey, but I ended up placing an order w/ PPC for the same old reasons, mostly being the $8 overnight shipping, & the fact that they had 4 different makes all @ .25 a piece. (epic run on sentence ftw)
> 
> +1
> 
> Next time I rebuild i'm going to make all of my own extensions using these, as they seem to have the BEST grip out of everything iv'e come across.


Let me know how you pull off the soldering without melting the terminal. Perhaps I have the wrong soldering iron, but when I tried it, I failed MISERABLY.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Let me know how you pull off the soldering without melting the terminal. Perhaps I have the wrong soldering iron, but when I tried it, I failed MISERABLY.


Whenever I've made mine, I pull the pin out to solder it then push it back in after it's cooled


----------



## kingchris

the pins do pull out!!


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Ok guys finished my look but got a leak unsure how to fix
> 
> 
> 
> Also ran out of pastel but my res needs a little more if I add just a little bit of water more than 750ml will that be bad


You have no choice but to drain and check O rings. if its leaking at the fitting, Easy new O ring. if its leaking at a seem of the block...... if its not modular the its RMA time. if you can disassemble the block then I would and look for anything that could break the seal between pieces. but remember liquid flows down the leak may not be at the bottom.(cant tell from the pic). This sucks be patient.

I don't use mixes like that. someone else will have to help you there.


----------



## charliebrown

Ok doing it now but answered my other question by adding a tad bit more water to res because I ran out of coolant will that make the coolant additives not work properly


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Did you use this Monsoon Hardline UV Cure Adhesive with those fittings?


I sure did







otherwise there would have been water all over my rig,








Got any questions about it?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> I sure did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> otherwise there would have been water all over my rig,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got any questions about it?


It was one of the optional add-ons on FrozenCPU's site but I hadn't heard of anyone mentioning it on here. Glad to know I need it! Haha


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Ok guys finished my look but got a leak unsure how to fix
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know where the leak is coming from? A fitting? Or tubing? Inlet or Outlet? Crack?
> Also ran out of pastel but my res needs a little more if I add just a little bit of water more than 750ml will that be bad


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> It was one of the optional add-ons on FrozenCPU's site but I hadn't heard of anyone mentioning it on here. Glad to know I need it! Haha










yea.. you need it to glue on the collars that makes their system work..
You wont need a UV lamp, simply just place the tubes with collars glued on in the sun for 2 min.. When I did it, it was fairly clouded (no direct sunlight) but it still cured in less than 2 min.
Hint.. the lock ring needs to go on the tube before the collar is glued on! so place a collar, a lock ring and what ever else you need next to each other so you dont forget anything..
I forgot the lock ring once so had to start over :S good thing I didnt apply the glue in sunlight or it would have cured and left me with a perfectly bend tube + a collar to throw in the bin.


----------



## skupples

Do they also include a solvent for when you want to take it apart?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Not that I know off.. but you can buy the collars separately 4$ for 6 Link
I would have gotten a pack if I had know they where available back when I ordered.. I might need them in the future (maybe adding a 2nd GTX780)


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yea.. you need it to glue on the collars that makes their system work..
> You wont need a UV lamp, simply just place the tubes with collars glued on in the sun for 2 min.. When I did it, it was fairly clouded (no direct sunlight) but it still cured in less than 2 min.
> Hint.. the lock ring needs to go on the tube before the collar is glued on! so place a collar, a lock ring and what ever else you need next to each other so you dont forget anything..
> I forgot the lock ring once so had to start over :S good thing I didnt apply the glue in sunlight or it would have cured and left me with a perfectly bend tube + a collar to throw in the bin.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Not that I know off.. but you can buy the collars separately 4$ for 6 Link
> I would have gotten a pack if I had know they where available back when I ordered.. I might need them in the future (maybe adding a 2nd GTX780)


Definitely good stuff to know. Are these fittings & sleeves only meant to work with Monsoon hard lines or will they work with other brands?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Some pictures of my Compact Splash:




























Will be back working on this build. You can find some more pictures in my build log, link in the sig









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Definitely good stuff to know. Are these fittings & sleeves only meant to work with Monsoon hard lines or will they work with other brands?


They should work fine with any other brand as long as they are of the right measurement. American standard measurement that is. I wouldn't try using them with metric tubing.

*Example:*

*Monsoon hardline fitting 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD*


*Primochill rigid acrylic 3/8 ID X 1/2 OD*


^This will work.


----------



## charliebrown

Ok that's my idle temp my water temp is 29.6 is this normal this is my first loop


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Ok that's my idle temp my water temp is 29.6 is this normal this is my first loop


How can we tell if temps are normal when we don't know the radiators, fans, or even CPU being used?

Also, idle temps are notoriously inaccurate, so we would need load temps to see if the system is working properly







.


----------



## skupples

if the idle temp is below ambient, than it is wrong. if it is just above ambient, it is likely close enough.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> They should work fine with any other brand as long as they are of the right measurement. American standard measurement that is. I wouldn't try using them with metric tubing.
> 
> *Example:*
> 
> *Monsoon hardline fitting 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD*
> 
> *Primochill rigid acrylic 3/8 ID X 1/2 OD*
> 
> ^This will work.


Awesome! It looks like I'll be purchasing quite a few feet of McMasters-Carr to practice on. I have a heat gun on its way. You guys have been a huge help! +1!


----------



## charliebrown

360 swifttech 240 Xspc fx8320 3.9ghz gtx 770 mayhem pastel red all on sp120 quiet editions prime95 was at 55 Celsius max on cpu


----------



## Errorist66

I have a question on how to setup my loop. I have. DDC pump in the reservoir and one with an acrylic top. single loop. I tried to put the second pump in the middle of the loop but is seams impossible to bleed.

loop order is:
pump/reservoir to chipset->cpu block -> mosfet-> top 360 rad-> ddc pump -> 120mm rad -> 120mm rad -> up to GPU 2 -> bridge -> GPU 1 -> reservoir

But the hose going into the second pump gets empied and the level in the reservoir goes up.

I feel stupid. is it mandatory to have the 2 pumps back to back for this kind of setup? Will that give me enough head pressure to run a single loop? both pump are DDC 3.25


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I have a question on how to setup my loop. I have. DDC pump in the reservoir and one with an acrylic top. single loop. I tried to put the second pump in the middle of the loop but is seams impossible to bleed.
> 
> loop order is:
> pump/reservoir to chipset->cpu block -> mosfet-> top 360 rad-> ddc pump -> 120mm rad -> 120mm rad -> up to GPU 2 -> bridge -> GPU 1 -> reservoir
> 
> But the hose going into the second pump gets empied and the level in the reservoir goes up.
> 
> I feel stupid. is it mandatory to have the 2 pumps back to back for this kind of setup? Will that give me enough head pressure to run a single loop? both pump are DDC 3.25
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Leave one pump unplugged and only use the other for initially filling/bleeding. Once the loop is filled and running then you can power on the other pump.


----------



## skupples

I have found that going back and forth between 1 pump & both pumps helps w/ bleeding. One pump for the beginning, and then both pumps ~30-40% for the final shake downs. Too much flow & the bubbles get sucked back up, too little & the bubbles won't come out.



Got pretty much everything done! Just need to take my sweet time sleeving my black/white/silver cables now, & get my Joyloc & Warthog in position.


----------



## Errorist66

I'll try that. rotating the PC almost 90 degree seams to help a bit.
Thanks both of you.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I'll try that. rotating the PC almost 90 degree seams to help a bit.
> Thanks both of you.


You would be amazed how much I had to abuse my 900D to get all of the air out. It is a bit easier w/ the STH10 as I have access to most of my bleed caps. Now I just have to tilt it in the right direction, wait for the water to glub to the end of the rad, then ever so slightly open the cap w/ paper towel in hand.


----------



## Blackspots

Wow, that case is huge. Actually getting to see what it looks like against other things lets me visualize its actual size.


----------



## skupples

It's standing on 3 inch casters, but it would still be taller than my desk.


----------



## Devildog83

WOW, that reminds me of one of those old TV's from the 50's. That is a monster case.

By the way it is beautiful!!


----------



## skupples




----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Awesome! It looks like I'll be purchasing quite a few feet of McMasters-Carr to practice on. I have a heat gun on its way. You guys have been a huge help! +1!


That's what this community's about! Glad we could help. Keep us updated on your progress.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You would be amazed how much I had to abuse my 900D to get all of the air out. It is a bit easier w/ the STH10 as I have access to most of my bleed caps. Now I just have to tilt it in the right direction, wait for the water to glub to the end of the rad, then ever so slightly open the cap w/ paper towel in hand.


It's heavy! wish i had some bleeding cap on the loop. I have quick disconnect around the GPU with an extra female to barb with a piece of hose that fits in a funnel so I can fill or drain around the gpu. That helps a little.

also a quick off -> on on the psu kick the stubborn bubble out.


----------



## MrGrievous

So I'm looking for a case that can support dual 280mm Monstas for a matx build but I am having a horrible time trying to find one. So I thought I'd ask here for for some case suggestions from my favorite community, so does anyone got a favorite that they would like to suggest?

EDIT: Thought I'd add some more details. I was only gonna to use either push or pull fans but what would give better temps pnp 60mm rad or pull 80mm? I'm pretty sure that pnp 80mm would be near impossible on any case unless there is a case I dont know of.


----------



## skupples

I'm not sure Monsta & M-ATX really go together.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So I'm looking for a case that can support dual 280mm Monstas for a matx build but I am having a horrible time trying to find one. So I thought I'd ask here for for some case suggestions from my favorite community, so does anyone got a favorite that they would like to suggest?
> 
> EDIT: Thought I'd add some more details. I was only gonna to use either push or pull fans but what would give better temps pnp 60mm rad or pull 80mm? I'm pretty sure that pnp 80mm would be near impossible on any case unless there is a case I dont know of.


Have you looked at the CaseLabs S5 or SM5 cases??


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So I'm looking for a case that can support dual 280mm Monstas for a matx build but I am having a horrible time trying to find one. So I thought I'd ask here for for some case suggestions from my favorite community, so does anyone got a favorite that they would like to suggest?
> 
> EDIT: Thought I'd add some more details. I was only gonna to use either push or pull fans but what would give better temps pnp 60mm rad or pull 80mm? I'm pretty sure that pnp 80mm would be near impossible on any case unless there is a case I dont know of.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Have you looked at the CaseLabs S5 or SM5 cases??


Or at least these 15mm Fans?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Have you looked at the CaseLabs S5 or SM5 cases??


Mini case lab cases hehe









I wonder how many s5's would fit in a TX10


----------



## Jeronbernal

Anyone know if i can remove the molex connector off a d5/ddc and turn it into a Sata power connector?


----------



## Majentrix

Coming soon to a computer near me


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Definitely good stuff to know. Are these fittings & sleeves only meant to work with Monsoon hard lines or will they work with other brands?


If you choose to go with monsoon fittings for your acrylic, you may also want to take into consideration that the base of the fitting is silver plated.
Not everyone likes silver in their loop since it is considered mixing metals..
I am using the silver fittings + a silver coil and pure distilled water and it works perfectly for me.. but not everyone who uses silver has the same experience.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Whenever I've made mine, I pull the pin out to solder it then push it back in after it's cooled


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> the pins do pull out!!


Hmmm... I didn't think about that


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Anyone know if i can remove the molex connector off a d5/ddc and turn it into a Sata power connector?


Why not? You only need 12vDC... Im not sure of the D5/655 wattage, but you may be able to power it off 3 pin motherboard fan header too. I did that with a 355, way smaller pump tho.


----------



## jpetrach

So I finished my Custom GPU Cooler. I have a SAPPHIRE vapor 270x 4 Gb. I can not get a full cover cooler. So I made my own and very happy with the result. I took a piece of .220 acrylic and the stock fans and a generic water block(the block is flat on top making it easier) I have a little more work to do but take a look.


----------



## Majentrix

I like your inventiveness!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Has anyone here used a monsoon rotary angle fitting coupled to a primochill acrylic compression fitting? If so, could you post a pic of it and state what the sizes are? I'm curious as to how flush the outsise diameter lines up with one another.
> 
> Basically what I need is a white 45° and/or 90° angled rotary to couple my primochill 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD acrylic fittings.


Not sure if anyone answered you in the meantime, and I've not done this myself. However I know that the Monsoon rotaries for 3/4" OD tube have a 24*.4*mm diameter, and that your Primochill 1/2" OD have a 24mm diameter. That's probably flush enough to deceive your eyes.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Anyone know if i can remove the molex connector off a d5/ddc and turn it into a Sata power connector?


Something like this.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1486887/build-log-true-blue-build/20_20#post_22240364


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1486887/build-log-true-blue-build/20_20#post_22240364
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What would the benefit of doing this be?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> What would the benefit of doing this be?


I would assume to eliminate having to run an extra molex cable just for the pump. Otherwise, not sure.


----------



## Devildog83

I was under the impression that sata was lower power than molex although my h100I ran off of a sata power, but yes available power connectors is most likely the reason.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I would assume to eliminate having to run an extra molex cable just for the pump. Otherwise, not sure.


I may be having a derp moment, but you'll still need to run a cable from the psu to the pump. Unless he has something clever in store. PCB distribution board ? A homemade daisy chain cable would tidy things up.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I may be having a derp moment, but you'll still need to run a cable from the psu to the pump. Unless he has something clever in store. PCB distribution board ? A homemade daisy chain cable would tidy things up.


He may have a 3 way SATA cable already running from his PSU that he will connect to. However, I really like your suggestion of a custom made PCB distribution board!


----------



## Kimir

Look again at the picture, it's the same connector as an SSD/HDD, so you can use the same cable you plugged your ssd and/or hdd then go to the pump.
On most recent modular power supply you often find molex on it's own cable (with 3-4 connectors), so with that way, you eliminate this said cable.


----------



## Devildog83

I just bought a sleeved 3way molex adapter from BitFenix because my LED strips were shipped with the molex instead of 3 pin fan connectors and I ran out of molex connectors.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1486887/build-log-true-blue-build/20_20#post_22240364
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would the benefit of doing this be?
Click to expand...

I'll let her answer why she did it:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MagicGirl*
> 
> I changed Molex to SATA because I don't want Molex cables at all in my build, they're outdated and white (transparent?). I like SATA slickness and black colour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [...]


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'll let her answer why she did it:


That's a grand idea!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Look again at the picture, it's the same connector as an SSD/HDD, so you can use the same cable you plugged your ssd and/or hdd then go to the pump.
> On most recent modular power supply you often find molex on it's own cable (with 3-4 connectors), so with that way, you eliminate this said cable.


I gotcha. Like I said, I was derping this morning lol.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'll let her answer why she did it:


Boom. She pulls through, satisfying all curiosity that we all hungered for in this hour of need.


----------



## oelkanne

Up and running very fine^^


----------



## rtop2

Just finished the loop in my TJ08 I plan to upgrade and cool the GFX soon! Tell me what you think!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I know its not strictly WC but it has a waterblock in it and im well pleased how it came out.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> I like your inventiveness!


thanks


----------



## VSG

B Neg, what is that background noise? Irrespective of that, the video clearly shows what you intended


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not strictly WC but it has a waterblock in it and im well pleased how it came out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As long as it has water in it.









btw, I'd like to report that in the spreadsheet, I have the post 5 and 6 that aren't mine.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So is it generally true that stock air coolers do not need/use thermal pads on the VRAM and VRMs such as with water blocks? Or does it depend on card and cooler?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not strictly WC but it has a waterblock in it and im well pleased how it came out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as it has water in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, I'd like to report that in the spreadsheet, I have the post 5 and 6 that aren't mine.
Click to expand...

Yeah,I run with more posts per page than the sheet originally had,I think you have to put it to 20 posts per page...sorry about that.


----------



## Kimir

Weird since the 4 other posts are mine. Those last two are subsven's one. (tried with 10/20/30 posts per pages, it redirect to the same everytime).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Weird since the 4 other posts are mine. Those last two are subsven's one. (tried with 10/20/30 posts per pages, it redirect to the same everytime).


Lemme look at it.

EDIT: And fixed.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So is it generally true that stock air coolers do not need/use thermal pads on the VRAM and VRMs such as with water blocks? Or does it depend on card and cooler?


I'm going to say it depends I had a gigabyte 7850 no thermal pads but my sapphire r9 270x did both overclock able.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> So I finished my Custom GPU Cooler. I have a SAPPHIRE vapor 270x 4 Gb. I can not get a full cover cooler. So I made my own and very happy with the result. I took a piece of .220 acrylic and the stock fans and a generic water block(the block is flat on top making it easier) I have a little more work to do but take a look.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Haha awesome.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lemme look at it.
> 
> EDIT: And fixed.











Now that it's fixed, I must hurry with my new build, must call the watercooling shop tomorrow, they received the missing piece and still didn't shipped my order.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> So I finished my Custom GPU Cooler. I have a SAPPHIRE vapor 270x 4 Gb. I can not get a full cover cooler. So I made my own and very happy with the result. I took a piece of .220 acrylic and the stock fans and a generic water block(the block is flat on top making it easier) I have a little more work to do but take a look.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not strictly WC but it has a waterblock in it and im well pleased how it came out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it a lot. Build log for it? This is the same build you made the custom vga block metal "case" for lack of better word for it? I am also curious about the painting job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> B Neg, what is that background noise? Irrespective of that, the video clearly shows what you intended


probably Magoo nodding approval of the final build.


----------



## jpetrach

its works quite well to. playing titan fall on max settings, overclocked it still only reaches around 42c. that to me is impressive considering i'm using an aluminum block from china. i did sand the block so the aluminum was thinner. and the braising lines didn't scratch the GPU.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not strictly WC but it has a waterblock in it and im well pleased how it came out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it a lot. Build log for it? This is the same build you made the custom vga block metal "case" for lack of better word for it? I am also curious about the painting job.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> B Neg, what is that background noise? Irrespective of that, the video clearly shows what you intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> probably Magoo nodding approval of the final build.
Click to expand...

Log is in my sig,CLOS3 IMPACT.

The noise is 2 660ti's doing stuff,got Mil Spec back from the customer for its yearly fluid change and general clean up. I always give 2 yrs servicing for any build for a customer for free,rarely people use it as they know what they are doing but that one is for a 'non enthusiast'. So full shake down and,if it requires it,a new OC and Win install after a TIM change and fluid swap.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> its works quite well to. playing titan fall on max settings, overclocked it still only reaches around 42c. that to me is impressive considering i'm using an aluminum block from china. i did sand the block so the *aluminum* was thinner. and the braising lines didn't scratch the GPU.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Careful running aluminum in your loop, can cause serious galvanic corrosion really fast! There is a reason reputable companies in the WC world aren't using it for blocks!!!


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Careful running aluminum in your loop, can cause serious galvanic corrosion really fast! There is a reason reputable companies in the WC world aren't using it for blocks!!!


that is why i opted to go with water wetter so I would not have a metal conflict( over the pastels/ color fluids). do you think I'll still have a problem. my h100i was copper on aluminum?


----------



## Jimhans1

I would be surprised if you didn't honestly. Especially with that quality Chinese aluminum, lol. Can u send the block out to be Hard Anodized? Preferably Type 3 Mil-spec! That would solve that.


----------



## jpetrach

well i don't want everything jacked up so ill start looking for a more copper like block thanks. i may have some time it looks Anodized on the inside


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I would be surprised if you didn't honestly. Especially with that quality Chinese aluminum, lol. Can u send the block out to be Hard Anodized? Preferably Type 3 Mil-spec! That would solve that.


Until he screws a fitting in it,scratches it and the waters penetrates....

Or,you know,have the whole loop as Alu......


----------



## Jimhans1

Lol, B-, what do you use to tighten your fittings? If he tightened it that hard with a Type 3 Ano, he would have stripped the brass on the fitting.........

Type 3 isn't just a surface finish, like types 1 & 2.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, B-, what do you use to tighten your fittings? If he tightened it that hard with a Type 3 Ano, he would have stripped the brass on the fitting.........
> 
> Type 3 isn't just a surface finish, like types 1 & 2.


I was only aware of 2 types,not a penetrating type.



Normal anodizing in a metal thread would just be ripped off with normal hand tightening.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> So I finished my Custom GPU Cooler. I have a SAPPHIRE vapor 270x 4 Gb. I can not get a full cover cooler. So I made my own and very happy with the result. I took a piece of .220 acrylic and the stock fans and a generic water block(the block is flat on top making it easier) I have a little more work to do but take a look.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's awesome, gives me idea to putting my 7870&270x under water


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*




Whaaat? B- is not all knowing? now I will question everything he says!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whaaat? B- is not all knowing? now I will question everything he says!
Click to expand...

Hey,I cant know everything.

BTW,your mom knows about the 'gentlemans literature' you have stashed.....


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hey,I cant know everything.
> 
> BTW,your mom knows about the 'gentlemans literature' you have stashed.....










hahaha ^_^
Again, that knowledge gives her more power.


----------



## Jimhans1

Just a quick knowledge boost B-, http://www.anodizing.org/Reference/reference_guide.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just a quick knowledge boost B-, http://www.anodizing.org/Reference/reference_guide.html


Already absorbed from google when you first mentioned it.
Tidy.


----------



## Jimhans1

Cool. Just trying to help.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

This is a bit mean....not even full copper and £52!!!!!





Nice design but not full copper is just ridiculous at that price...a full copper,nickel plated EK cpu block is only £12 more...

Not cool EK.....


----------



## Jeronbernal

XD is that their new universal gpu block?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> XD is that their new universal gpu block?


Yeah,its a nice design but just that tiny copper plate in a SS shell seems tight to me,it will perform really well as there are no (that i know of) impingement GPU blocks around like it.
But im not keen on the SS block....

Its very low profile compared to its rivals too,quite an achievement to get low profile and impingement in the same package.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is a bit mean....not even full copper and £52!!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice design but not full copper is just ridiculous at that price...a full copper,nickel plated EK cpu block is only £12 more...
> 
> Not cool EK.....


I wonder if I could use that on the eVGA GTX760 (non reference) and not have to worry about keeping the VRAM cool? (since half it is on the backside of the graphics card.)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> I wonder if I could use that on the eVGA GTX760 (non reference) and not have to worry about keeping the VRAM cool? (since half it is on the backside of the graphics card.)


I'm sure you could use that block, but iirc you have an EVGA 02G-P4-2765 that Alphacool makes a fullcover block for that would be a much better alternative than any universal block like that EK one. That Alphacool NexXxoS block is a very good performing block for that card.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Final pics are done...


----------



## VSG

You are outdoing yourself each time, James. Congrats on another magnificent build!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Final pics are done...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is clean. Very nice to look at.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Final pics are done...


Stunning!

Amazing work there.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Final pics are done...


If you don't mind me asking, which cable organizers are those? I got some of the cable combs awhile back, but the functionality is lack luster.


----------



## VSG

Looks like LutroO's clear combs unless I am mistaken.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> If you don't mind me asking, which cable organizers are those? I got some of the cable combs awhile back, but the functionality is lack luster.


The Lutro0 stealth combs


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm sure you could use that block, but iirc you have an EVGA 02G-P4-2765 that Alphacool makes a fullcover block for that would be a much better alternative than any universal block like that EK one. That Alphacool NexXxoS block is a very good performing block for that card.


Yeah, that was just a curious question if it would work (so I could have an all EK water cooling system), but I do plan on getting the Alphacool waterblock for that card.

Oh, I don't have that just yet. I still have the GTX560 version of that card.

My NewEgg Wishlist, for what I still have to buy: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=16700245


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> If you don't mind me asking, which cable organizers are those? I got some of the cable combs awhile back, but the functionality is lack luster.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> The Lutro0 stealth combs


Yeah those stealth combs are a little hard to work with. The holes are small, just like they are with the open-sided E22/Lutro0 cable combs (which is what I assume skupples is referring to), so your sleeving has to be pulled really tight to fit, and with those stealth ones you have to fit each sleeved wire through the comb before you put the connector on. I'm finding that's not always very easy to do. I assume Ensourced added those combs to James' Titanfall build when he did the sleeved cables for it. Really beautiful sleeving work that guy does.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Final pics are done...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Spectacular James!!! Absolutely great work!!!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is a bit mean....not even full copper and £52!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice design but not full copper is just ridiculous at that price...a full copper,nickel plated EK cpu block is only £12 more...
> 
> Not cool EK.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> XD is that their new universal gpu block?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah,its a nice design but just that tiny copper plate in a SS shell seems tight to me,it will perform really well as there are no (that i know of) impingement GPU blocks around like it.
> But im not keen on the SS block....
> 
> Its very low profile compared to its rivals too,quite an achievement to get low profile and impingement in the same package.
Click to expand...

Stainless steel is unfortunately not cheap. Without it though we wouldn't be able to get the same low profile design. :/


----------



## skupples

seems it would be harder to tool as well.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah those stealth combs are a little hard to work with. The holes are small, just like they are with the open-sided E22/Lutro0 cable combs (which is what I assume skupples is referring to), so your sleeving has to be pulled really tight to fit, and with those stealth ones you have to fit each sleeved wire through the comb before you put the connector on. I'm finding that's not always very easy to do. I assume Ensourced added those combs to James' Titanfall build when he did the sleeved cables for it. Really beautiful sleeving work that guy does.


I actually had to take my cables apart to put those combs on, I have the black ones. It was a bit of a pain but worth it. There is no way I have the talent or patience to sew them together.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Here you go skupples, a comparison pic. If you found the open-sided combs difficult to work with, then the stealth ones are not going to be any easier I can assure you.



If you can manage to get your sleeved cables through the holes before putting the connector on, then the stealth does hold the cables together a little tighter.


----------



## skupples

I found that getting them to stay in place was a pain in the ass, and they spread my OEM sleeves to the point of looking silly.


----------



## Jimhans1

Will those cable combs work with para cord??


----------



## Neb9

I have got all the wc parts for my GPU its just that my mobo died and it has been sent back under warranty.


It was kinda dark when I took this pic so it looks gloomy.


----------



## Jimhans1

Good luck with that Asus RMA!!


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Good luck with that Asus RMA!!


It died cos I got 64gb of ram for a ram disk, and then I set the speed of the ram to what is advertised on the ram produces website, and then the mobo died. later on I checked the compatibility of the ram and the mobo and found out that the ram is not compatible... I really should have checked before hand..


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> I have got all the wc parts for my GPU its just that my mobo died and it has been sent back under warranty.
> 
> 
> It was kinda dark when I took this pic so it looks gloomy.


Off topic but you might have noticed I put my GPU into the 3rd slot not the top one, because it interfered with my wc. should I move it to the top slot because of an increased of performance??


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> It died cos I got 64gb of ram for a ram disk, and then I set the speed of the ram to what is advertised on the ram produces website, and then the mobo died. later on I checked the compatibility of the ram and the mobo and found out that the ram is not compatible... I really should have checked before hand..


That definitely should not kill the board.


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That definitely should not kill the board.


It was working fine until I put the speed up from 1600 to 2133. And then it died.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> It was working fine until I put the speed up from 1600 to 2133. And then it died.


It could have been the CPU that died. The memory controller is on the CPU. (What was the post code?)


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> It could have been the CPU that died. The memory controller is on the CPU. (What was the post code?)


Post code? if you mean some code the bios gave me when the computer crashed? there was none.
here's the problem in more detail: http://www.overclock.net/t/1484846/question#post_22163782


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> Post code? if you mean some code the bios gave me when the computer crashed? there was none.
> here's the problem in more detail: http://www.overclock.net/t/1484846/question#post_22163782


Did you take the power cord from the outlet for a while? If not do that. The post code is suppose to go on the clock (upper right corner) of your mobo. Something should appear there when you turn it on...

This is not an unusual behavior on RIVE and RIVE black boards. It might looks like a dead board but the unplug from the outlet thing have re-set many of these boards out there (including mine). In any case head to the RIVE x79 club, others there can chime in and helping you out too.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> Post code? if you mean some code the bios gave me when the computer crashed? there was none.
> here's the problem in more detail: http://www.overclock.net/t/1484846/question#post_22163782


Your board should have a digital LED display that displays post codes.

codes to help you diagnose a certain error.


----------



## wermad

If you guys want to help, go to the thread he posted. Keeps this on-topic,


----------



## Gabrielzm

^^ true. Sorry about that


----------



## PCModderMike

Somewhat of a repost, but playing around with some pics I never used so just adding to the gallery.


----------



## Arm3nian

Anyone know if port 1 be used as an inlet (ending loop) if port 4 feeds directly into the pump?


----------



## Jimhans1

Would make it hard to bleed due to air going right back into pump I would think......


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Anyone know if port 1 be used as an inlet (ending loop) if port 4 feeds directly into the pump?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Would make it hard to bleed due to air going right back into pump I would think......


yep, use port 2 or 3.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*


nice little build mike.


----------



## Arm3nian

Why are the bottom ports recessed... You have to have a certain g 1/4 thread length so it doesn't leak out the bottom...

nvm, they come with the extender, but it didn't fit the first time.


----------



## Jimhans1

Lol, if EK fittings are used, it's not an issue. A lot of folks have been irritated by that, seems kind of like EK was making it so it only worked with their stuff and not truly universal.


----------



## Arm3nian

Fixed my post, comes with an extender, but it still looks ugly if using different fittings throughout the build. design flaw imo


----------



## charliebrown

ok so my wife is complaining about me leaving my rig on all the time so im asking can i shut it down or will the parts become warped from going offf/on


----------



## Jimhans1

What would get warped? I turn my systems off when not in use (both liquid and air-cooled), never had any problems.


----------



## mus1mus

Hey guys, I think I made a mistake in picking up a used 240mm loop for around 100 bucks.

The loop is based on an RS240,
750 pump-bayres,
EK Supreme HF Copper Plexi,
Primochill tubing.

I found some huge deposits on the block and the res has a cloudy look..

The rad needs some flash and all. But I'm gonna ask how you guys clean the block. What do you use?

Also, has anyone had problems with an XSPC Bayres becoming cloudy and staind on the inside?? how do you guys clean them?

Thanks


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> What would get warped? I turn my systems off when not in use (both liquid and air-cooled), never had any problems.


just me thinking out loud thanks for the info


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> ok so my wife is complaining about me leaving my rig on all the time so im asking can i shut it down or will the parts become warped from going offf/on


I can't imagine any acrylic tubing or blocks getting warped from leaving it running. My build isn't finished yet, and I leave the lights and pump running a few hours at a time each day, so that I can see what else I need to adjust or tweak ...okay-okay, and to stare at it







. Then when I retire for the night, I turn it off.


----------



## wooshna

I know there is not many who water cooled a Antec 1100 so heres some pics of mine. This is my first loop.


----------



## mironccr345




----------



## lowfat

Tubing running behind motherboard tray?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Tubing running behind motherboard tray?


You know it! This is an old pic. I currently have black tubes and a CSQ cpu block. I'm switching back to pastel blue though.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, if EK fittings are used, it's not an issue. A lot of folks have been irritated by that, seems kind of like EK was making it so it only worked with their stuff and not truly universal.


Yeah, its a conspiracy to sell $3 extensions. Which are required for EK fittings too.
Its a small price to pay for better design. Recessed ports look far better than having little hats sticking out all over the place.


----------



## skupples

it's a business practice not a conspiracy. Very similar though


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not strictly WC but it has a waterblock in it and im well pleased how it came out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bneg, I'm not sure if you noticed yet, but I guess you did..
Around the 10-second mark, if you pay attention to the mobo PCB, it seems to be sagging/bending pretty hard under the weight of the GPU+Block. Is there any risk to that causing damage in the future?
Other than that, I love the colors and that sexy waterblock.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not strictly WC but it has a waterblock in it and im well pleased how it came out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bneg, I'm not sure if you noticed yet, but I guess you did..
> Around the 10-second mark, if you pay attention to the mobo PCB, it seems to be sagging/bending pretty hard under the weight of the GPU+Block. Is there any risk to that causing damage in the future?
> Other than that, I love the colors and that sexy waterblock.
Click to expand...

Its a common issue with ITX boards and this case especially,caselabs ship a puck that goes under the PCI-e slot now,I got my case before that tho..
The great thing about the case colour is that its neutral,any other colour can be the contrast.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it's a business practice not a conspiracy. Very similar though


To sell more of the ultra profitable $3 extensions. That keeps the profit rolling in.

Or is it rather, just a design decision. Otherwise why didn't they make all the fittings they produce slim and compatible with recessed ports.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah, its a conspiracy to sell $3 extensions. Which are required for EK fittings too.
> Its a small price to pay for better design. Recessed ports look far better than having little hats sticking out all over the place.


The front ports are not recessed though, and they show more than the bottom ports.


----------



## skupples

I really don't care tbh, I find the EK reservoirs to be ugly.









i'm a fan of plain jane themes w/ my own stuff. I'm bad w/ colors so I rarely try to follow a genuine color scheme. (if you ohaven't noticed)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> The front ports are not recessed though, and they show more than the bottom ports.


Exactly the point.

The front ports will be visible if recessed or not. The bottom ports are less visible because they are recessed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I really don't care tbh, I find the EK reservoirs to be ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm a fan of plain jane themes w/ my own stuff. I'm bad w/ colors so I rarely try to follow a genuine color scheme. (if you ohaven't noticed)


Its a good thing that there is like every other manufacturer doing the tube, flat ends and little hats design then I guess.

Seriously, aesthetic is personal but to suggest that by doing something a little different they are somehow restricting the public to using their products just doesn't make sense.


----------



## jpetrach

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Thermal-Compound-Retail/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_3?m=A23NVCSO4PYH3S&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1400007772&sr=1-3



anyone tried this and if so thoughts, feeling, opinions.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Thermal-Compound-Retail/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_3?m=A23NVCSO4PYH3S&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1400007772&sr=1-3
> 
> 
> 
> anyone tried this and if so thoughts, feeling, opinions.


Used this one with my noctua air coolers for a long time and its good. There are plenty of other options out there too.

EDIT - I am using pk-3 these days


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Thermal-Compound-Retail/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_3?m=A23NVCSO4PYH3S&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1400007772&sr=1-3
> 
> 
> 
> anyone tried this and if so thoughts, feeling, opinions.


Magoo says no.



He says Gelid and cheesy biscuits are the way forward.


----------



## VSG

Speaking of thermal pastes, I got in touch with Thermene a couple of weeks back about getting a sample of their gen 2 Thermene paste for study (I do quite a lot of carbon nanotechnology in grad school) which is mostly dried graphene powder according to them. They gladly sent me a sample and we have been going back and forth so far. While I don't know what all I can say so far (no contract or NDA here, but they are a small company just starting out so I don't want to give out anything), the new paste has tested better than AS5 and MX4 while being on par with PK-3. I let them know that their graphene sample was not the best in this batch, so I think they are sending me another batch soon to try out. If they manage to get their synthesis optimized, this thing could be right up there with GC Extreme and maybe even CLU.


----------



## skupples

I got a massive tube of PK3, my only issue is that it is obscenely thick.

I would love CLU efficiency w/ the not eating copper part.







My temps (after three remounts and a whole sheet of Fujipoly) are 2-3C higher w/ PK3 than cLU.


----------



## VSG

I was kinda surprised how badly AS5 tested honestly, NREL had done a test on it and got a conductivity value of just 0.94 w/mK. My AS5 sample tested at 1.12 w/mK only- nowhere near the 8.7 they claim. For real world applications, this would mean 2-4 C difference at best though given variations in everything else.

I got a nice tube of PK3 myself, I like how thick it is- not as much as GC-Extreme and not too low either. Thermene is slightly less viscous than MX-4 (which in turn is less viscous than PK3).


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Thermal-Compound-Retail/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_3?m=A23NVCSO4PYH3S&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1400007772&sr=1-3
> 
> 
> 
> anyone tried this and if so thoughts, feeling, opinions.


It's fine, that's what I use on both GPUs and CPUs. There is such little difference between the top TIMs, just go with whatever one you like really.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## VSG

Between Amazon's fees and the free shipping, how is Platinum Micro Inc. making any money at all selling that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Between Amazon's fees and the free shipping, how is Platinum Micro Inc. making any money at all selling that?


Because it costs next to nothing to make and is muy cheap wholesale.


----------



## skupples

They are probably paying less than $1 a tube when buying in bulk.


----------



## wermad

I picked up some Ceramique2 and MX3 from the Jab-tech sale. I used some ceramique on my gpus so I decided to replace the old stuff with the new one. Noticed a tad bit better idle temps. My old batch was drying out a bit since the plunger of the syringe had pulled out so air had gotten in. I'm still running the ek gelid on my cpu block so no need to change that out for now


----------



## Arm3nian

I used clp in the past, killed my gtx 690. Clu is a PITA to get off blocks and cpu. GC Extreme works fine for me, just blob in the middle, cross for gpu, because spreading it is impossible.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

I put CLU on my CPU die and I had to re-apply it a few times. If you're not careful you can scratch the die when removing it. My CPU has several deep scratches on it now, not enough to make it not work but I'm sure it doesn't make my temperatures any better.

It's a hassle, not really worth the extra few degrees imo. Only reason I used it was to avoid the pump out effect on my CPU die.

For TIM I use whatever's on hand as long as it's decent. Usually TX2 or GC Extreme, all the top tier TIM's are within a few degrees anyway.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Any suggestions for Tim between die and IHS, and Tim between IHS and Waterblock? Or would it be better to get the naked die kit from ekwb?

My second build has the delid, the 760t doesn't, but I might switch it around... Not sure

If I do use the naked die kit what Tim would you suggest?

I did read this http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2285595

But I've heard a few other people saying different things

But I'm also curious to which way I should do it if I do keep the lid on


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> I put CLU on my CPU die and I had to re-apply it a few times. If you're not careful you can scratch the die when removing it. My CPU has several deep scratches on it now, not enough to make it not work but I'm sure it doesn't make my temperatures any better.
> 
> It's a hassle, not really worth the extra few degrees imo. Only reason I used it was to avoid the pump out effect on my CPU die.
> 
> For TIM I use whatever's on hand as long as it's decent. Usually TX2 or GC Extreme, all the top tier TIM's are within a few degrees anyway.


I used clu aswell for my delidded 3770k, but my 4930k is soldered








CLP literally removed half of my gpu's die, piece of crap product.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Any suggestions for Tim between die and IHS, and Tim between IHS and Waterblock? Or would it be better to get the naked die kit from ekwb?
> 
> My second build has the delid, the 760t doesn't, but I might switch it around... Not sure
> 
> If I do use the naked die kit what Tim would you suggest?


CLU comes cleanly off the die, not worth it for the IHS to waterblock. If you are limited by temps in your overclocking then clu might be worth it for die to ihs.


----------



## Nuuze

Hey Everyone,

I've been lurking here ever since wanting a gaming PC again along with my son. It's been about 15 years since my last custom build and I must say there are some cool stuff nowadays.









I ended up building two of these! Mine in red and my son's in green.

-Case: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540
-Motherboard
-MSI MPower Z87 Motherboard (Green)
-Asus MAXIMUS VI HERO (Red)
-CPU
-Intel Core i5-4670K Haswell 3.4GHz Clocked at 4.2Ghz (Green)
-Intel Core i7-4770 Haswell 3.5GHz Clocked at 4.2Ghz (Red)
-GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 2GB
-Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro Series - 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 DRAM 2133MHz
-Hard Drive: Samsung 840 Series 2.5" 120GB SSD & Western Digital 3.5" 1TB 7200 RPM
-Power: Corsair AX860i Digital ATX Power Supply
-Cabling: BitFenix
-Cooling: EKWB Nickel Clean CPU & GPU, EK-D5 Vario Pump, XSPC Radiators, EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir , PrimoChill Vortex Black POM Flow Indicator , Monsoon fittings, Corsair Air Series Fans.
-OS: Windows 7 64bit







Enjoy!
http://youtu.be/A2Xknm4zxP8


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It's fine, that's what I use on both GPUs and CPUs. There is such little difference between the top TIMs, just go with whatever one you like really.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Werd. I just use whatever comes with my heatsinks and blocks. I do not believe I purchased TIM more than once in 10 years. That was a 30g syringe of Ceramique.

EDIT: I lied, I bought a bunch of CLP to use in whenever I do a delid.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuuze*
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I've been lurking here ever since wanting a gaming PC again along with my son. It's been about 15 years since my last custom build and I must say there are some cool stuff nowadays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up building two of these! Mine in red and my son's in green.
> 
> -Case: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540
> -Motherboard
> -MSI MPower Z87 Motherboard (Green)
> -Asus MAXIMUS VI HERO (Red)
> -CPU
> -Intel Core i5-4670K Haswell 3.4GHz Clocked at 4.2Ghz (Green)
> -Intel Core i7-4770 Haswell 3.5GHz Clocked at 4.2Ghz (Red)
> -GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 2GB
> -Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro Series - 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 DRAM 2133MHz
> -Hard Drive: Samsung 840 Series 2.5" 120GB SSD & Western Digital 3.5" 1TB 7200 RPM
> -Power: Corsair AX860i Digital ATX Power Supply
> -Cabling: BitFenix
> -Cooling: EKWB Nickel Clean CPU & GPU, EK-D5 Vario Pump, XSPC Radiators, EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir , PrimoChill Vortex Black POM Flow Indicator , Monsoon fittings, Corsair Air Series Fans.
> -OS: Windows 7 64bit
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!
> http://youtu.be/A2Xknm4zxP8


Nice couple of builds there.
OMG on the water flow! that reservoir has a LOT of motion in it!







What coolant is it?


----------



## Nuuze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Nice couple of builds there.
> OMG on the water flow! that reservoir has a LOT of motion in it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What coolant is it?


That's with the pump on #5 in video. I had it on #3 and the pearls on the Mayhem Tharsis Red coolant lessens getting stuck in the loop. I ran it on #5 for about a week before turning it down to #4. Although there is a lot of flow there's no bubbles or water noise. Fans run about 600 +/- RPM's.


----------



## skupples

CLP is a pain, CLU is easy, but it likes to burr/pit Copper, easy to get off of nickel though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuuze*
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I've been lurking here ever since wanting a gaming PC again along with my son. It's been about 15 years since my last custom build and I must say there are some cool stuff nowadays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up building two of these! Mine in red and my son's in green.
> 
> -Case: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540
> -Motherboard
> -MSI MPower Z87 Motherboard (Green)
> -Asus MAXIMUS VI HERO (Red)
> -CPU
> -Intel Core i5-4670K Haswell 3.4GHz Clocked at 4.2Ghz (Green)
> -Intel Core i7-4770 Haswell 3.5GHz Clocked at 4.2Ghz (Red)
> -GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 2GB
> -Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro Series - 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 DRAM 2133MHz
> -Hard Drive: Samsung 840 Series 2.5" 120GB SSD & Western Digital 3.5" 1TB 7200 RPM
> -Power: Corsair AX860i Digital ATX Power Supply
> -Cabling: BitFenix
> -Cooling: EKWB Nickel Clean CPU & GPU, EK-D5 Vario Pump, XSPC Radiators, EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir , PrimoChill Vortex Black POM Flow Indicator , Monsoon fittings, Corsair Air Series Fans.
> -OS: Windows 7 64bit
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!
> http://youtu.be/A2Xknm4zxP8


Nice looking rig there









What desk is that?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, if EK fittings are used, it's not an issue. A lot of folks have been irritated by that, seems kind of like EK was making it so it only worked with their stuff and not truly universal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah, its a conspiracy to sell $3 extensions. Which are required for EK fittings too.
> Its a small price to pay for better design. Recessed ports look far better than having little hats sticking out all over the place.


It would be nice if they offered black and white versions of the extenders. I don't mind it so much with the reservoir, but on the radiators they looked so ugly that I ended up routing out wider holes to allow my fittings to go directly.

Incidentally, the Monsoon rotaries and LED plugs are the same diameter as the EK extenders, so you can use those if you prefer.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuuze*
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I've been lurking here ever since wanting a gaming PC again along with my son. It's been about 15 years since my last custom build and I must say there are some cool stuff nowadays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up building two of these! Mine in red and my son's in green.
> 
> -Case: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540
> -Motherboard
> -MSI MPower Z87 Motherboard (Green)
> -Asus MAXIMUS VI HERO (Red)
> -CPU
> -Intel Core i5-4670K Haswell 3.4GHz Clocked at 4.2Ghz (Green)
> -Intel Core i7-4770 Haswell 3.5GHz Clocked at 4.2Ghz (Red)
> -GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 2GB
> -Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro Series - 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 DRAM 2133MHz
> -Hard Drive: Samsung 840 Series 2.5" 120GB SSD & Western Digital 3.5" 1TB 7200 RPM
> -Power: Corsair AX860i Digital ATX Power Supply
> -Cabling: BitFenix
> -Cooling: EKWB Nickel Clean CPU & GPU, EK-D5 Vario Pump, XSPC Radiators, EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir , PrimoChill Vortex Black POM Flow Indicator , Monsoon fittings, Corsair Air Series Fans.
> -OS: Windows 7 64bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!
> http://youtu.be/A2Xknm4zxP8


Growing up I would have loved a dad like you lol

Don't get me wrong, I love my dad, but if he built me a water cooled PC back when I was younger like that, I would've done every single chore in the house, even if he didn't ask me lol


----------



## Nuuze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice looking rig there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What desk is that?


Desk are the corner desks from IKEA.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Growing up I would have loved a dad like you lol
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love my dad, but if he built me a water cooled PC back when I was younger like that, I would've done every single chore in the house, even if he didn't ask me lol


Thanks for the kind words!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuuze*
> 
> Desk are the corner desks from IKEA.


Gotcha, had a suspicion it was one of them. Was gonna get one to hold my five dell monitors but I ended it making my own for ~$60







.


----------



## Devildog83

I have neglected the fan control aspect of my loop and need to address it now, I don't want an external fan controller as I have a 750D and anything in the 5.25 bays looks like crap. What options are out there that are not too expensive?


----------



## Michalius

Aquaero


----------



## lowfat

I use a T-Balancer, but only because i have had them for ages. Aquaero 5 LT is what i do now.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It would be nice if they offered black and white versions of the extenders. I don't mind it so much with the reservoir, but on the radiators they looked so ugly that I ended up routing out wider holes to allow my fittings to go directly.
> 
> Incidentally, the Monsoon rotaries and LED plugs are the same diameter as the EK extenders, so you can use those if you prefer.


Oh OK, I hadn't heard that about monsoon fittings. I totally agree with you about the extenders being available in more than a single finish. I started a thinkcell suggestion on that very topic. Maybe if enough of us like idea they will get onto it. I'm sure it must have been suggested before but the search function on that site sucks.
I actually prefer the opposite. I don't mind them at all on the rads but on reservoirs, pump tops and bridges they can look funny to me. I think it can be less noticeable on the reservoirs because they are at least there surrounded by nickel stop plugs rather than other places where they are just a single bright fitting amongst all black or whatever.


----------



## royce5950

I'm considering some primochill intensifier dye to make it more blood red. But a long time coming, Here is my newest build <3


----------



## royce5950




----------



## MrGrievous




----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering some primochill intensifier dye to make it more blood red. But a long time coming, Here is my newest build <3


Damn nice piece of hardware you got there! Great work on the acrylic tubing bends also!


----------



## jtom320

So I just 'finished' my 350D build. A lot of people gave me good advice on here so I thought I'd share.

It's a 4770k/780TI classified basically. Running an XT45 and ST30 in a 350D. Delta CFB fans I believe. Not sure. They are excellent though. Also two SP120s on the top ST30. The Deltas everywhere else. I forget where it was printed but somewhere researching the heck out of stuff on MLL I read that different fans in the same case can reduce noise because of their frequency or something. Also I only ordered three of the Deltas initially and I didn't want to wait.









Most of the other hardware should be recognizable. I wish I'd known what I know now going into this build. It was a lot of fun but a lot of mistakes were made. Eventually when I flush it I'll add some more angled fittings in. Have some goofy looking runs on the left side of the case. It will also help me straighten out my pump/res.

However end of the day I'm still extremely happy with the finished product. At this point I've changed out a rad and torn the loop down twice though so for the time being I'm just going to enjoy it.



Also the EK clear coolant is not totally clear. Almost looks like beer. I was running a kill coil/distilled on the initial iteration but got really freaked out about nickel flaking since there is a lot of it in my loop. Should have went with mayhems like everyone told me but I figured going with basically all EK stuff if anything breaks I'll have a case in terms of getting it replaced by them.


----------



## skupples

It seems nickel flaking is also heavily over-diagnosed. I thought my first nickel blocks were flaking, just turned out to be discoloration and what I can only describe as either copper, or even "hard water" build up, but it looked like copper when I scrubbed it off. All of the nickel was left intact when I was done cleaning, except for one little spot where you could quite obviously SEE copper.

I was only running silver & distilled.

Derick also posted something the other day about not recommending the use of Silver.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It seems nickel flaking is also heavily over-diagnosed. I thought my first nickel blocks were flaking, just turned out to be discoloration and what I can only describe as either copper, or even "hard water" build up, but it looked like copper when I scrubbed it off. All of the nickel was left intact when I was done cleaning, except for one little spot where you could quite obviously SEE copper.
> 
> I was only running silver & distilled.
> 
> Derick also posted something the other day about not recommending the use of Silver.


Pure distilled looked a lot better in my loop. Oh well.

Also my crappy phone photo seriously discolored some of the tubing. It's actually clear I don't know why that is. However in the res it does have a slightly beerish color. You can actually see it in the bottle. Not super pleased with it.

It also seems to depend on the light. Staring at it now and it looks clear.

As far as the nickel goes I'd be crushed it if happened so better safe then sorry I guess.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It seems nickel flaking is also heavily over-diagnosed. I thought my first nickel blocks were flaking, just turned out to be discoloration and what I can only describe as either copper, or even "hard water" build up, but it looked like copper when I scrubbed it off. All of the nickel was left intact when I was done cleaning, except for one little spot where you could quite obviously SEE copper.
> 
> I was only running silver & distilled.
> 
> Derick also posted something the other day about not recommending the use of Silver.


It's best to keep it down to two metals in the loop. I'm running all nickel plate and then brass in my rads, no issues for me, and I had it going for a year.


----------



## Jeronbernal

lowfat, ive been peeping your builds. man you use some craaaazy motherboards lol, i really like them


----------



## Slinky PC

shorter acrylic tubing = less problems = survival








behind esthetics use normal tubing








under construction, coming soon with nvidia stickers as usual









@ B NEGATIVE that "want this thread to exist for 2 purposes"








If you don't see water-cooling on my build use a second purpose and add me to same list as.. ,,ɔd uɹod,, or something.








btw long time I don't posting here, I know you miss me. I come in peace!


----------



## Hefner

DISCO PC!


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shorter acrylic tubing = less problems = survival
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> behind esthetics use normal tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> under construction, coming soon with nvidia stickers as usual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ B NEGATIVE that "want this thread to exist for 2 purposes"
> If you don't see water-cooling on my build use a second purpose and add me to same list as.. ,,ɔd uɹod,, or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw long time I don't posting here, I know you miss me! I come in peace


How did you get your green UV to glow so brightly?

I'm using Green Emerald UV mayhems X1 in my clear tubing and unless you turn every light off and black the room out, you cant even tell it's glowing.
Do you just have alot of cathodes?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shorter acrylic tubing = less problems = survival
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> behind esthetics use normal tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> under construction, coming soon with nvidia stickers as usual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ B NEGATIVE that "want this thread to exist for 2 purposes"
> If you don't see water-cooling on my build use a second purpose and add me to same list as.. ,,ɔd uɹod,, or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw long time I don't posting here, I know you miss me! I come in peace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you get your green UV to glow so brightly?
> 
> I'm using Green Emerald UV mayhems X1 in my clear tubing and unless you turn every light off and black the room out, you cant even tell it's glowing.
> Do you just have alot of cathodes?
Click to expand...

at first you should use clear UV tubing not just clear tubing if you like to glow on the dark. For green uv is easy, just buy primochill intensifier green. My fluid is yellow cost me double to make it glowing. I use Aguacomputer Yellow glow and a little green from primochill to reach the same color as the GeForce GTX lights from gpu.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

The last bits for my first custom loop just came in:











Can't wait to get it all put together.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I think it can be less noticeable on the reservoirs because they are at least there surrounded by nickel stop plugs rather than other places where they are just a single bright fitting amongst all black or whatever.


You use the stock nickel stop plugs!?









Koolance make a black plug that looks perfect on the RES-X3
 

And Monsoon make plugs that fit, in many colours.


----------



## skupples

anyone tried the low profile BP stop fittings on the EK res?


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> at first you should use clear UV tubing not just clear tubing if you like to glow on the dark. For green uv is easy, just buy primochill intensifier green. My fluid is yellow cost me double to make it glowing. I use Aguacomputer Yellow glow and a little green from primochill to reach the same color as the GeForce GTX lights from gpu.


The Intensifier do anything to mess with the pH levels of the X1?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> lowfat, ive been peeping your builds. man you use some craaaazy motherboards lol, i really like them


Thanks, but what do you mean by crazy motherboards?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh snap Slinky has moved on to acrylic


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here you go skupples, a comparison pic. If you found the open-sided combs difficult to work with, then the stealth ones are not going to be any easier I can assure you.
> 
> 
> 
> If you can manage to get your sleeved cables through the holes before putting the connector on, then the stealth does hold the cables together a little tighter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Will those cable combs work with para cord??


Looked like my question was missed.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Looked like my question was missed.


Yes Jim, they should work with paracord. Iirc, jameswalt used them on his paracord sleeved cables in his most recent titanfall build


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Looked like my question was missed.


Sorry, I didn't miss the question. I just didn't have an answer for it & was hoping someone else might. I wasn't sure about paracord with those combs but morencyam is correct that the paracord sleeving by Ensourced for the Titanfall build used those stealth combs so it's something that is possible, though I couldn't imagine getting paracord tight enough to work with those combs.

I messed a bit with paracord only once and will never go back to it. Don't really like how it looks and hate hate hate hate working with it. I MUCH prefer mdpc or Lutro0s telios braided type sleeving. It's sooo much easier to work with, it's easier to bend/shape cables, and it looks waaay better imho. But that's just me.


----------



## Jimhans1

I agree honestly, but I already have the paracord sleeved cables, so, gotta make do ya know.

Edit: forgot to say thanks and +rep to you both. I Appreciate it.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I messed a bit with paracord only once and will never go back to it. Don't really like how it looks and hate hate hate hate working with it. I MUCH prefer mdpc or Lutro0s telios braided type sleeving. It's sooo much easier to work with, it's easier to bend/shape cables, and it looks waaay better imho. But that's just me.


I completely agree. I bought a 50ft roll of paracord from Home Depot and tried it and got through 4 wires before calling it quits. I too prefer the MDPC/Lutro0 Teleios style of sleeve much more.


----------



## sinnedone

I'm going to be using paracord for my next build. The texture and stiffness (or lack of compared to mdpc) is something I want to try out.

*Unicr0nhunter* what was bad about the paracord?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Looked like my question was missed.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I didn't miss the question. I just didn't have an answer for it & was hoping someone else might. I wasn't sure about paracord with those combs but morencyam is correct that the paracord sleeving by Ensourced for the Titanfall build used those stealth combs so it's something that is possible, though I couldn't imagine getting paracord tight enough to work with those combs.
> 
> I messed a bit with paracord only once and will never go back to it. Don't really like how it looks and hate hate hate hate working with it. I MUCH prefer mdpc or Lutro0s telios braided type sleeving. It's sooo much easier to work with, it's easier to bend/shape cables, and it looks waaay better imho. But that's just me.
Click to expand...

Shame is that paracord gives a much nicer finish than sleeve,i agree tho that Lutro0 makes some of the best sleeve around,I think that its better than MDPC.

I tend to use the clamp end of the pin to fix it when im making the loom,if its pre finished than its a right dog to use...thats when i reach for the cyanoacrylate,


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I'm going to be using paracord for my next build. The texture and stiffness (or lack of compared to mdpc) is something I want to try out.
> 
> *Unicr0nhunter* what was bad about the paracord?


Everything was so bad about it. It's terrible to work with. Trying to inchworm cables though it was so much harder. It wanted to snag on everything. I sleeved a couple fans with it and they weren't too bad, but then I did a 24-pin cable that looked terrible. I never could tame the wires to stay straight like I can with traditional sleeving. I don't know how anyone manages with it because after spending a couple days of all my spare time working just on that one cable it turned out looking about as kept as dreadlocks on a matted dog's behind. No, it looked worse than that, and to top it off the fan cables I had made only the week before were collecting dust like no tomorrow and looked terrible. Black and grey paracord was a very bad idea with regards to dust. Nothing else in the case looked dusty but they looked like I had buried them in the ground and dug them up. It all went straight in the bin, as did the rest of the paracord I had, and I've never even thought about going back to it. The only good thing I could say about it is I didn't have any trouble doing heatshrinkless with it in the connectors.


----------



## Devildog83

Nocta has finally pulled there head out and made fans that aren't cream and brown colors, I for one am jumping for joy because I can't stand seeing nice builds an those ugly fans.

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/news.php?newsid=6883


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Nocta has finally pulled there head out and made fans that aren't cream and brown colors, I for one am jumping for joy because I can't stand seeing nice builds an those ugly fans.
> 
> http://www.hardwareheaven.com/news.php?newsid=6883
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm still slightly disappointed because they aren't as high of a performer as their current models. Other than that, it is nice to see that they have listened!


----------



## Ice Reign

I prefer paracord myself but that's also because I have access to bulk wire, pins and a great crimper so I can build the wires custom instead of having to inchworm a premade crimp without snagging it. Crimping the paracord into the strain relief prong makes it turn out very nicely. I like the colours R&W Rope offers aswell.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I'm going to be using paracord for my next build. The texture and stiffness (or lack of compared to mdpc) is something I want to try out.
> 
> *Unicr0nhunter* what was bad about the paracord?


snags easily, and I noticed it is really easy to mess up the weave when you snag, which can be prevented by attaching the terminal after you pass the wire.


----------



## PCModderMike

As long as you have this little guy, sleeving with paracord is cake.


http://lutro0-customs.com/products/paracord-tool-threader


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I'm going to be using paracord for my next build. The texture and stiffness (or lack of compared to mdpc) is something I want to try out.
> 
> *Unicr0nhunter* what was bad about the paracord?


Personal, I hate all those electric cables!









Just cut them all and/or paint them black. My


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Nocta has finally pulled there head out and made fans that aren't cream and brown colors, I for one am jumping for joy because I can't stand seeing nice builds an those ugly fans.
> 
> http://www.hardwareheaven.com/news.php?newsid=6883


I love the neutral gray tones!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice Reign*
> 
> I prefer paracord myself but that's also because I have access to bulk wire, pins and a great crimper so I can build the wires custom instead of having to inchworm a premade crimp without snagging it. Crimping the paracord into the strain relief prong makes it turn out very nicely. I like the colours R&W Rope offers aswell.


I've got a decent cache of decent sleeving gear, and I do rather enjoy crimping terminals and making all my own cables whenever I can find the time, but it sure doesn't make me fond of anything about paracord.











Now that I got all this stuff out, it must be time to sleeve my new Aquacomputer D5 cables.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Personal, I hate all those electric cables!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just cut them all and/or paint them black. My


That looks like a very expensive billboard Slinky, Vegas would be proud.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Personal, I hate all those electric cables!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just cut them all and/or paint them black. My


wow


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Everything was so bad about it. It's terrible to work with. Trying to inchworm cables though it was so much harder. It wanted to snag on everything. I sleeved a couple fans with it and they weren't too bad, but then I did a 24-pin cable that looked terrible. I never could tame the wires to stay straight like I can with traditional sleeving. I don't know how anyone manages with it because after spending a couple days of all my spare time working just on that one cable it turned out looking about as kept as dreadlocks on a matted dog's behind. No, it looked worse than that, and to top it off the fan cables I had made only the week before were collecting dust like no tomorrow and looked terrible. Black and grey paracord was a very bad idea with regards to dust. Nothing else in the case looked dusty but they looked like I had buried them in the ground and dug them up. It all went straight in the bin, as did the rest of the paracord I had, and I've never even thought about going back to it. The only good thing I could say about it is I didn't have any trouble doing heatshrinkless with it in the connectors.


rofl, I see.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> snags easily, and I noticed it is really easy to mess up the weave when you snag, which can be prevented by attaching the terminal after you pass the wire.


Ah yes starting to see now

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> As long as you have this little guy, sleeving with paracord is cake.
> 
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/paracord-tool-threader


Nice, will definitely keep that in mind when I get to that last section of the build.


----------



## Destrto

On the topic of sleeving with paracord, my first ever attempts were with paracord, and I simply used a small strip of masking tape around the connector pin. Made sleeving pretty easy for me. I prefer paracord over most of anything I've seen because everything else looks too plasticy to me. That's just my opinion though.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*


This is why I'd rather have my cables extended and sleeved by a professional. I've come to the realization that there's no way I'm going to buy all of that equipment and try to do it myself, only for it to come out mediocre and sub par.


----------



## Jameswalt1

This is really cool, Performance PC's offering custom laser cut logo's for the new Swiftech blocks:

https://m.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/PerformancePCs/photos/a.147817155291179.36406.145556878850540/664411716965051/?type=1&source=48

Awesome possibilities...


----------



## VSG

Ya, just saw that. I like how PPC is offering their own take on multiple products to distinguish themselves.


----------



## Jimhans1

Could we have that on a non-swiftech product??


----------



## midnightgypsy

The Asus one is awesome looking... Would of bought this... If I saw it first....


----------



## Arm3nian




----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*






Looking great mate. The only I don't like very much is the pci-e cables routed that way. Any chance of getting them on a short path to the VGA?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Looking great mate. The only I don't like very much is the pci-e cables routed that way. Any chance of getting them on a short path to the VGA?


I could try and go from the right, where the sata and 24pin are coming from, that might look better.


----------



## skupples

I'm just trying to figure out how people get those perfect arches w/ their sleeved cables, even when not using combs.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm just trying to figure out how people get those perfect arches w/ their sleeved cables, even when not using combs.


This ^^


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm just trying to figure out how people get those perfect arches w/ their sleeved cables, even when not using combs.


Sorry - getting off topic here








Cables cut to perfect length and held securely in place by something unseen









This advice I gave in Krulani build log might help a little


----------



## therion17




----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm just trying to figure out how people get those perfect arches w/ their sleeved cables, even when not using combs.


Takes time, giving the right amount of slack, and also properly tying the excess behind the motherboard tray.

This took me a while to get it as close to perfect as I could, and it is without cable combs (which I'm considering buying Lutro0's clear acrylic stealth cable combs).



And even then, I can't get the "behind" part of the PCIe cables properly done w/o cable combs. But the outer appearance from straight on hides them







!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> This is why I'd rather have my cables extended and sleeved by a professional. I've come to the realization that there's no way I'm going to buy all of that equipment and try to do it myself, only for it to come out mediocre and sub par.


I tried doing them myself, and utterly failed. Check out Ensourced cables. I took a leap of faith from Jameswalt's recommendation, and it turned out to be money well spent. Very high quality work, very quick, and cheap for custom work to boot.

The savings for the pita and time spent sleeving is worth every bit to me.


----------



## LeoYunta




----------



## Jeffinslaw

It's back...



More in my build log, link in the sig









Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeoYunta*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


More green love


----------



## LeoYunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> More green love


I don't know what your talking about mate









Seriously I wanted to go for an exclusively green and black rig, but I'm lazy and I didn't paint anything so ... It's like this







a little bit weird in the theme, but I like it


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm just trying to figure out how people get those perfect arches w/ their sleeved cables, even when not using combs.


Tension on the cables paired with a very tight stretch on the sleeving. With a tight sleeve a cable can stand on its own straight up for like 2 feet. PET sleeving only though, paracord can not hold shape anywhere near as good.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-40.jpg.html

Lots of good info and smart people here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/0_20


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-40.jpg.html


what an ugly piece of junk. read the pm i sent. its my shipping address.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Tension on the cables paired with a very tight stretch on the sleeving. With a tight sleeve a cable can stand on its own straight up for like 2 feet. PET sleeving only though, paracord can not hold shape anywhere near as good.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-40.jpg.html
> 
> Lots of good info and smart people here.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/0_20


last OT... is that paracord or PET?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> what an ugly piece of junk. read the pm i sent. its my shipping address.











But i agree. It does look rather ugly there. Powdercoating is coming 'soon'.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> last OT... is that paracord or PET?


MDPC-X. You will never ever see me using paracord.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> More green love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LeoYunta*
> 
> I don't know what your talking about mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously I wanted to go for an exclusively green and black rig, but I'm lazy and I didn't paint anything so ... It's like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a little bit weird in the theme, but I like it
Click to expand...

Green love, as in this:



Not much love for the color green around here. Its nice to see some builds put some in there. Like Slinky's masterpiece


----------



## pc-illiterate

lowfat, i thought you said you dont use the t-balancers anymore. i thought about getting a mining but im not sure about it. i heard theyre kinda difficult to set-up. would be cheap for a dual ddc controller though. i like the 'stopped fan' burst to start feature.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Green love, as in this:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much love for the color green around here. Its nice to see some builds put some in there. Like Slinky's masterpiece


We are the 300. We shall not fall. Stay strong brothers (and sisters)!


----------



## LeoYunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Green love, as in this:
> 
> 
> 
> Not much love for the color green around here. Its nice to see some builds put some in there. Like Slinky's masterpiece


I think I already commented on your build, I was impressed, what a nice thing ah ah, I'm jealous


----------



## Jameswalt1

Yeah, I probably would have b
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> We are the 300. We shall not fall. Stay strong brothers (and sisters)!


Love me some green too


----------



## wermad

Slinky and James' are probably some of the hardest-core builds I've seen with green. Mean green!

Other colors like orange and purple, white, etc. have some mystique to them that makes them very interesting. But green, don't know why the hate? Can't really put my finger on it but its just not too widely embraced imho. Almost red-head stepchild love (







). Its probably the overload of red and blue themed builds. I've had a few takes w/ those colors and even white, but green, its something special to me at this point.

I don't know, but I guess this can sum up my preference and interest in green, understated beauty:


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Slinky and James' are probably some of the hardest-core builds I've seen with green. Mean green!
> 
> Other colors like orange and purple, white, etc. have some mystique to them that makes them very interesting. But green, don't know why the hate? Can't really put my finger on it but its just not too widely embraced imho. Almost red-head stepchild love (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Its probably the overload of red and blue themed builds. I've had a few takes w/ those colors and even white, but green, its something special to me at this point.












You hit the nail on the head, it's not widely accepted at all and I think that's part of it's allure. I was shocked how well received 900CSQ was for this reason. I think the big issue with green is that if it's done poorly it looks far more awful than say a red themed build done poorly. It really has to be done right.


----------



## wermad

Also the abundance of "uv green" liquids when wc exploded in the pc world. If you play it right, uv green liquid looks boss. But its been done so many times, that its looked as more mainstream and, dare I say, tacky?

I did it, I wouldn't mind doing it again. Biggest pain are the uv lights









Meant to ask you, had you known about polishing the frosted csq back in the awesome 900DCSQ build, would you have done it? (You probably knew about tbh







).


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Also the abundance of "uv green" liquids when wc exploded in the pc world. If you play it right, uv green liquid looks boss. But its been done so many times, that its looked as more mainstream and, dare I say, tacky?
> 
> I did it, I wouldn't mind doing it again. Biggest pain are the uv lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meant to ask you, had you known about polishing the frosted csq back in the awesome 900DCSQ build, would you have done it? (You probably knew about tbh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


You took the words right out of my mouth, I was in the process of editing my post to include mention of the UV green explosion several years ago, that definitely burned out the idea of green for a lot of people. I'm personally completely anti UV. All UV does is make the build all about the UV when it's said and done, takes away from the rest of the build. Plus as you said, 90% of UV builds, green or not, turn out tacky.

No I wouldn't have polished them, and yeah it did cross my mind. I wound up being far too happy with how the pastel green looked inside the frosted blocks. Perhaps if the coolant color was different I may have.



Just saw this on Facebook, they did a nice job IMO:


----------



## wermad

Still get goosebumps seeing your build. Epic classic dude


----------



## Jimhans1

Neat looking block, but aesthetically, IMHO, I do like that EK FCB better.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Neat looking block, but aesthetically, IMHO, I do like that EK FCB better.


Yeah that all black EK block on the RIVE Black Edition is absolutely beast.


----------



## hokochu

I finally got around to redoing my loop. looks all nice now









also can I be in the water cooling club now? I want to be in the "cool" guys club too


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Green love, as in this:
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1923096/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> Not much love for the color green around here. Its nice to see some builds put some in there. Like Slinky's masterpiece


It's coming....soon.












"There will be green"


----------



## Neb9

Off topic.

How do you get those GEFORCE GTX lights on a GPU that has wc? Like slinky has?



@Slinky PC


----------



## wrayman

nothing fancy,
just two 240mm rads, cpu and gpu block, 150mm res and d5 vario pump
also, it was my first time doing rigid and i didnt plan it properly, hence the odd bends


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrayman*
> 
> nothing fancy,
> just two 240mm rads, cpu and gpu block, 150mm res and d5 vario pump
> also, it was my first time doing rigid and i didnt plan it properly, hence the odd bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really clean dude!


----------



## wrayman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Really clean dude!


Cheers mate


----------



## Neb9

can anyone else answer the question properly as slinky will not.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> can anyone else answer the question properly as slinky will not.


Here you go dude:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1431233/geforce-gtx-logo-colour-change-on-titan










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokochu*
> 
> 
> I finally got around to redoing my loop. looks all nice now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also can I be in the water cooling club now? I want to be in the "cool" guys club too


The complexity







, hehe, I'm a masochist to it as well








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> It's coming....soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "There will be green"


Oh yeah








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrayman*
> 
> nothing fancy,
> just two 240mm rads, cpu and gpu block, 150mm res and d5 vario pump
> also, it was my first time doing rigid and i didnt plan it properly, hence the odd bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very lovely and clean. Awesome stuff


----------



## Jimhans1

You would need to remove them from the reference blower style cooler and mount them to the block with either double sided tape or Velcro.

And sorry for slinkys post, he has proven to be a "take him with a pile of salt" kinda person.


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Chill'ax dude, he did put your name on the post and you're quote of his post proves that. He's not citing ownership but using it as a reference to his question. You've answered this question before.
> Here you go dude:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1431233/geforce-gtx-logo-colour-change-on-titan


Thanks for the link









REP+


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrayman*
> 
> nothing fancy,
> just two 240mm rads, cpu and gpu block, 150mm res and d5 vario pump
> also, it was my first time doing rigid and i didnt plan it properly, hence the odd bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


More pics please...







Oh i actually like the odd bends, to be quite honest it looks great


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> Thanks for the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> REP+


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> You would need to remove them from the reference blower style cooler and mount them to the block with either double sided tape or Velcro.
> 
> And sorry for slinkys post, he has proven to be a "take him with a pile of salt" kinda person.


Please stop







you break my heart!
Here, take this.. I have same stickers for you!


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Noviets

Slinky, did you use UV tubing for that effect? How many cathodes do you have in that rig? Where are they mounted?

Trying to get mine to glow bright like that. Do you have any non-uv lighting in the case aswell? (Doesn't seem like it)

I know the X1 from mayhems is one of the best quality when it comes to coolants, so I think my problem is just needing more UV lighting in the case


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Slinky, did you use UV tubing for that effect? How many cathodes do you have in that rig? Where are they mounted?
> 
> Trying to get mine to glow bright like that. Do you have any non-uv lighting in the case aswell? (Doesn't seem like it)
> 
> I know the X1 from mayhems is one of the best quality when it comes to coolants, so I think my problem is just needing more UV lighting in the case


I use only clear UV tubing and the cathodes are on the top, left (back of the reservoir) and on the right attached direct on the 4 pumps acrylic top. Only my Christmas lights effect batwing the GPUs are blue and not UV and the exterior of the rig is all red.
Sorry, I don't know about mayhems (can not use it because my CPU block do not permitted) I use only non conductive fluid (Feser One F1 UV Yellow) and add Aguacomputer UV yellow intensifier + a little primochill green intensifier.


----------



## wrayman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very lovely and clean. Awesome stuff


thank you very much









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> More pics please...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh i actually like the odd bends, to be quite honest it looks great


haha thanks a lot!
here's a couple more then








i haven't finished making my lighting ciruict, but lights are in place behin the mobo and along the corner edges


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Go away? You are not the creator of this tread!
> How was that with primochill acrylic tubing banding with EK silicon? Still impossible for You? Really?
> Way don't you go .. to Copyright Library and see my registrations PAu-2-772-049, PAu-2-772-050, PAu-2-772-051, PAu-2-250-470, PAu-2-250-536, PAu-2-408-834.


He's actually IS the creator of this thread. No offense but this forum is very open, friendly and helpful, you telling people not to use your photos to ask for help and tossing out claims of copyright aren't really the culture here, you may want to seek a different forum if you're not going to be a friend to the people.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Really, is the creator of this thread?!! Anyway.. don't look like, I still believe him take it from same one.


What?


----------



## FreakyFriday

Here's my RIG. Sorry for poor quality of images.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Lol... This is crazy.

Let me get this right... So dude posts a pic of slinky build, asking slinky how he did something in the same post, blatantly saying "how did slinky do this" and slinky instead of being flattered and helping someone that is obviously admiring his 1337 skills, he's whooping out copyright issues?

I wish I could save all this as my sig.

Ps. Nice dye and build freaky Friday, pictures are great, if you saw my build you'd see what real crappy pictures look like lol

No matter how much you spend on a camera, if you don't know how to use it (like me) your picture will always end up bad XD


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Bit late for that. This should be obvious by now but seriously guys, show some restraint. As far as the copyright issue is concerned, I'd rather see proof of copyright violation via PM than have it come up again in here, or better yet, PM ENTERPRISE or Chipp directly about the matter. That's not something to mess around with like that out in the open.


----------



## Jimhans1

Pretty much. And a non-watermarked photo, in PUBLIC domain no less.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Lol... This is crazy.
> 
> Let me get this right... So dude posts a pic of slinky build, asking slinky how he did something in the same post, blatantly saying "how did slinky do this" and slinky instead of being flattered and helping someone that is obviously admiring his 1337 skills, he's whooping out copyright issues?
> 
> I wish I could save all this as my sig.


^^^ This... I was thinking the same thing!


----------



## coolmiester

Just recently upgraded the cards to 780 Hydro Copper so thought i'd update the pictures while Slinky contemplates a new career in law


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Bit late for that. This should be obvious by now but seriously guys, show some restraint. As far as the copyright issue is concerned, I'd rather see proof of copyright violation via PM than have it come up again in here, or better yet, PM ENTERPRISE or Chipp directly about the matter. That's not something to mess around with like that out in the open.


It is not the problem of OCN,he is directly threatening me with copyright infringement...for photo I did not post.
He can bring it however he likes,he has no grasp of how copyright works nor the fact that,according to the ToS,the posted image is now property of OCN.....

And I was showing restraint.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> ^^^ This... I was thinking the same thing!


you still can, just use spoiler so it doesn't eat all the space in your sig.
On topic, d'oh! the shop I get my watercooling stuff and evga still didn't ship any of the thing I've ordered... and I thought I would have a busy weekend by finally work on my rig, guess not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And I was showing restraint.


I missed your post that got deleted, saw the beginning on my subscriptions then...


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is not the problem of OCN,he is directly threatening me with copyright infringement...for photo I did not post.
> He can bring it however he likes,he has no grasp of how copyright works nor the fact that,according to the ToS,the posted image is now property of OCN.....
> 
> And I was showing restraint.


For the purposes of applying and enforcing that part of the ToS, that's something for the managers to work out, not us or any of you guys. As such, threats like that should be forwarded to management if they're at all serious. Let's just leave it at that.

If what you were saying was what you call showing restraint, well...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is not the problem of OCN,he is directly threatening me with copyright infringement...for photo I did not post.
> He can bring it however he likes,he has no grasp of how copyright works nor the fact that,according to the ToS,the posted image is now property of OCN.....
> 
> And I was showing restraint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the purposes of applying and enforcing that part of the ToS, that's something for the managers to work out, not us or any of you guys. As such, threats like that should be forwarded to management if they're at all serious. Let's just leave it at that.
> 
> If what you were saying was what you call showing restraint, well...
Click to expand...

Hey,I never said I was Mother Theresa....

I'm B NEGATIVE,secret agent.


----------



## kcuestag

Cleaned again.

Please get back to normal discussions, I'd appreciate it.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeoYunta*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: LeoYunta's work!


Well done !


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Cleaned again.
> 
> Please get back to normal discussions, I'd appreciate it.


I hate you, couldn't you have just waited another hour or so?









Anyway, copyright claims are nothing to be joked at so I am with the OCN mods here. Now back to watercooling..


----------



## kingchris

just got to bend some pipe.

it is a watercooling thread!!


----------



## kamikazemonkey

I leave here my first build...




Still have to re-paste thermal on cpu (35º on idle isn't normal) and re-do cable management, but need time...

Specs:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*Components:*
i5 3570k (stock, but also OC sometimes at 4.0 Ghz)
Asrock Z77e ITX
8GB G.Skill DDR3 PC3-12800 RipjawsX
Sapphire 7970 Vapor-X (OC 1195/1605)
Samsung 120GB SERIE 840 SSD
Crucial 120GB mSATA SSD
2x Toshiba 2 TB 5400 rpm
Silverstone SST-ST55F-G (custom purple sleeved/shorten cables/white connectors)
*Cooling:*
Koolance RP-1250 Combo (res/pump/fan controller)
front: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 140mm + Noiseblocker Blacksilent PK-3 140 + Koolance QDC3 for drain
*front panel modded with Mnpctech Blow Hole front grill*
side: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm + 2x NoiseBlocker NB-ELOOP B12-2 120
ram: EK-RAM Monarch + Monach modules
Cpu: EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ
Gpu: Custom Full Block for 7970 vapor-X
Monsoon fittings + Bitspower Deluxe white angles/extenders/caps
Tube PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 9,5/12,7mm - Crystal Clear
Rear: modded Tacen Aura II pro silent 80mm


----------



## SinatraFan

Nicely done kamikazi.... That could almost double for a cool looking subwoofer!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> just got to bend some pipe.
> 
> it is a watercooling thread!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


I see two 590s....

Brings back memories of Elysium with front mounted psu











edit: ....


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikazemonkey*
> 
> I leave here my first build...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have to re-paste thermal on cpu (35º on idle isn't normal) and re-do cable management, but need time...
> 
> Specs:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Components:*
> i5 3570k (stock, but also OC sometimes at 4.0 Ghz)
> Asrock Z77e ITX
> 8GB G.Skill DDR3 PC3-12800 RipjawsX
> Sapphire 7970 Vapor-X (OC 1195/1605)
> Samsung 120GB SERIE 840 SSD
> Crucial 120GB mSATA SSD
> 2x Toshiba 2 TB 5400 rpm
> Silverstone SST-ST55F-G (custom purple sleeved/shorten cables/white connectors)
> *Cooling:*
> Koolance RP-1250 Combo (res/pump/fan controller)
> front: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 140mm + Noiseblocker Blacksilent PK-3 140 + Koolance QDC3 for drain
> *front panel modded with Mnpctech Blow Hole front grill*
> side: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm + 2x NoiseBlocker NB-ELOOP B12-2 120
> ram: EK-RAM Monarch + Monach modules
> Cpu: EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ
> Gpu: Custom Full Block for 7970 vapor-X
> Monsoon fittings + Bitspower Deluxe white angles/extenders/caps
> Tube PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 9,5/12,7mm - Crystal Clear
> Rear: modded Tacen Aura II pro silent 80mm


----------



## bundymania

Hello folks


----------



## VSG

I saw those R4BE blocks on PPC, they look great but the prices made me go


----------



## stebbiro

I was wishful that EK would have produced their EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock - Nickel in a copper model. I'm thinking of trying MetalX B-929 Nickel Stripper to achieve the look I am after.
Has anyone used this stuff?


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I see two 590s....
> 
> Brings back memories of Elysium with front mounted psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: ....


Them where the days


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*


i absolutely love this case. that rad chamber is excellent.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stebbiro*
> 
> I was wishful that EK would have produced their EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock - Nickel in a copper model. I'm thinking of trying MetalX B-929 Nickel Stripper to achieve the look I am after.
> Has anyone used this stuff?


That bare copper's likely going to turn a nice oxidized shade of black everywhere the water hits it in almost no time at all. Is that the look you are after? That's the reason acrylic blocks tend to have nickel plating underneath them, because that's not exactly the look too many would be wanting to see.

I much prefer copper blocks to anything nickel, but preferably with the water channel covered up under some acetal or a copper top or something similar where I don't have to watch my copper block changing color as it forms that protective black layer.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> lowfat, i thought you said you dont use the t-balancers anymore. i thought about getting a mining but im not sure about it. i heard theyre kinda difficult to set-up. would be cheap for a dual ddc controller though. i like the 'stopped fan' burst to start feature.


I still use the BigNG and the MiniNG. I would never buy them these days though. The MiniNG makes a good set it and forget it for pumps but that is about it. I had serious issues with the BigNG controlling a DIYINHK DDC1T. Pump would just shut off and never turn back on unless I cranked the voltage. Works good w/ the GTs though.


----------



## skupples

You just rip the LED out of the stock cooler then keep the rest of the case dark so you don't see the wires... Or extnes the wires if you have the rifht gauge.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i absolutely love this case. that rad chamber is excellent.
Click to expand...

Its an 840,done long before CM's stacker.....I wonder where CM got the idea....


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its an 840,done long before CM's stacker.....I wonder where CM got the idea....


yes i know b-neg. he built an awesome rad box out of a 2nd 840. i read here and there bits on his build, hence the "that rad chamber is excellent" comment. if cooler not master had gotten the idea from him, the new 'stacker' case wouldnt be so damned ugly.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

It would probably still be pretty damn ugly.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrayman*
> 
> nothing fancy,
> just two 240mm rads, cpu and gpu block, 150mm res and d5 vario pump
> also, it was my first time doing rigid and i didnt plan it properly, hence the odd bends


Sometimes, I think planning is over rated. You get complex bends and for myself, I was happy just to get it to work.



Oh, and that was my way of saying I though it looked very clean, well done also. (coming from another new person to acrylic)


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Sometimes, I think planning is over rated. You get complex bends and for myself, I was happy just to get it to work.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and that was my way of saying I though it looked very clean, well done also. (coming from another new person to acrylic)


I do like white liquid in acrylic, 16mm acrylic would have looked very sweet. I have decided to add a few 90's and extensions to make mine easier to construct. A bit more money and a bit of a delay but should be worth it. At least I hope.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its an 840,done long before CM's stacker.....I wonder where CM got the idea....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes i know b-neg. he built an awesome rad box out of a 2nd 840. i read here and there bits on his build, hence the "that rad chamber is excellent" comment. *if cooler not master had gotten the idea from him, the new 'stacker' case wouldnt be so damned ugly.*
Click to expand...

Bwahahahahaha!!

There is truth in this.....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> This is really cool, Performance PC's offering custom laser cut logo's for the new Swiftech blocks:
> 
> https://m.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/PerformancePCs/photos/a.147817155291179.36406.145556878850540/664411716965051/?type=1&source=48
> 
> Awesome possibilities...


I like it.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bwahahahahaha!!
> 
> There is truth in this.....


NO doubt. Different strokes I guess. I mean I think "Slinky's rig looks like a slot machine in a Vegas casino but everyone has there own style and they have a right to that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bwahahahahaha!!
> 
> There is truth in this.....
> 
> 
> 
> NO doubt. Different strokes I guess. I mean I think "Slinky's rig looks like a slot machine in a Vegas casino but everyone has there own style and they have a right to that.
Click to expand...

Please,dont mention him nor that UV horror again.....you know,for copyright reasons.....

I wonder if he asked ASUS or Nvidia to copy their trademarks? Can he copyright something that has manufacturers logo's on?


----------



## Devildog83

Ok, point taken. I will be hush hush on that subject.

Some folks don't like red in builds either, I hear it all of the time but I could care less because just as many folks like it and I love it. I will do diferent colors on the next build.


----------



## morencyam

When I look at a build, the color is the last thing I look at. I just like seeing all the different ways people come up with to route their loops and little custom details. That billboard is a completely different story though.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrayman*
> 
> nothing fancy,
> just two 240mm rads, cpu and gpu block, 150mm res and d5 vario pump
> also, it was my first time doing rigid and i didnt plan it properly, hence the odd bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


It looks great in my opinion mate. Good job.

Pity. Missed all the fun around this thread... I would like to see Magoo showing some restraint....


----------



## el gappo

I think it's about time this thread got featured on the homepage.

Any particular picture you guys would like to see up there? Suggestions?


----------



## VSG

Most of the BOTMs have pictures in here, so just pick and choose from past winners


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> I think it's about time this thread got featured on the homepage.
> 
> Any particular picture you guys would like to see up there? Suggestions?


I think James Walters build would be a good one to throw up there.


----------



## VSG

^ Definitely, it got featured by EK, Nvidia, Parvum and others on social media already.


----------



## kpoeticg

His last 2 builds belong there. But i guess Robocop already was...

BNEG's rig is more than worthy. Lowfat & Fast_Fate's last 8488908019 builds lol. IT Diva's Limo build for sure. Too many favorites to list


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Definitely, it got featured by EK, Nvidia, Parvum and others on social media already.


Think I may of thrown it up too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*  Too many favorites to list


I know right! It's why I was asking you guys lol.

You cool with that @Jameswalt1?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> Think I may of thrown it up too.
> I know right! It's why I was asking you guys lol.
> 
> You cool with that @Jameswalt1
> ?


But of course


----------



## wermad

The 900D-CSQ with Mint Green Pastel is the best eye-catcher of the three imho. Surely brings with pop factor to catch ppl's eyes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Them where the days


Remember those as very solid but the 1.5gb vram was an issue in Surround. Decided to sell them and just go with quad 580 3GBs.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Just recently upgraded the cards to 780 Hydro Copper so thought i'd update the pictures while Slinky contemplates a new career in law
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful build sir, what case is that?

*Edit*

I see B negative already answered that. They need to bring that case back it's gorgeous.


----------



## fast_fate

luciddreamer124's Project Magis should be considered I reckon (among so many other wicked recent builds)









Spoiler: Great Work !!


----------



## Blackops_2

Agreed with James' Titanfall build being up there. Thing is gorgeous







by far one of my favorite builds i've seen.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Can we throw my AWESOME watercooled G5 up there?



Jeffinslaw


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Can we throw my AWESOME watercooled G5 up there?
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Take your pic.











Seeing as me and James are no doubt going head to head in MOTM for sponsored builds,I would think that having his recent build as the carousel pic is not really 'sporting'. By the same token,neither can my S3.


----------



## wermad

don't forget this beast by DarthBeavis:
Quote:


>


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> don't forget this beast by DarthBeavis:
> Quote:
Click to expand...

No.

He doesnt participate in this forum other than to spam pics.

Nice build tho.


----------



## Pheozero

Way too many good builds and pics to choose just one, TBH.


----------



## kpoeticg

Too much eye candy!!! Lol

Snef's last few builds got some great pics to choose from too!!


----------



## kamikazemonkey

This is the forum os awesomenes..... so it's gona be a difficult choice....


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Can we throw my AWESOME watercooled G5 up there?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Yeah that's a masterpiece









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seeing as me and James are no doubt going head to head in MOTM for sponsored builds,I would think that having his recent build as the carousel pic is not really 'sporting'. By the same token,neither can my S3.


When is the said Sponsored Build MOTM contest?
















If this will exist then yeah I agree, wouldn't be sporting.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

34 Members, 15 Guests.









That G5 is glorious, indeed. Starting with the paint job but so not ending there.

Edit: lol I thought it was up there already.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seeing as me and James are no doubt going head to head in MOTM for sponsored builds,I would think that having his recent build as the carousel pic is not really 'sporting'. By the same token,neither can my S3.
> When is the said Sponsored Build MOTM contest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this will exist then yeah I agree, wouldn't be sporting.


I think its a month or 2 away,Pantsbandit will know more......


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think its a month or 2 away,Pantsbandit will know more......


A month or two!!!? I'll have completed another build by then


----------



## Blackops_2

Question.

Thinking i want to run hard fittings from the pump/res through the first tubing inlet hole on the bottom panel to the 120, and incorporate a flowmeter vertically if i have room. Then just run tubing from the outlet of the 120mm to my 780.

I'm wondering how these guys threaded the tubing holes like Kaiqi did in these pictures.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1278500/build-log-project-rampage-corsair-800d-full-wc-setup/10


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think its a month or 2 away,Pantsbandit will know more......
> 
> 
> 
> A month or two!!!? I'll have completed another build by then
Click to expand...

Dont farm it out then.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> .


I've always admired they simplistic-cleanly look of this one.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Question.
> 
> Thinking i want to run hard fittings from the pump/res through the first tubing inlet hole on the bottom panel to the 120, and incorporate a flowmeter vertically if i have room. Then just run tubing from the outlet of the 120mm to my 780.
> 
> I'm wondering how these guys threaded the tubing holes like Kaiqi did in these pictures.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1278500/build-log-project-rampage-corsair-800d-full-wc-setup/10
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you are talking about what I think you are talking about. They used Bitspower Fillport/Pass Through Fittings.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=22957


----------



## B NEGATIVE

She is sitting next to me after its 1st year fluid change,I always give a 2 year maintenance plan for customer rigs. Such a simple build but so much better off for it.

Interesting MilSpec fact: The 360 rad in the top was XSPC's experimental rad,the very first EX ever made. I got it unpainted with a warning to leaktest it properly. Thanks to the 2 Pauls!


----------



## wrayman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It looks great in my opinion mate. Good job.


Thanks a lot









also thanks gabriel for my first rep xD


----------



## Wihglah

My rig is about half finished:



I really need to learn how to take photos.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> If you are talking about what I think you are talking about. They used Bitspower Fillport/Pass Through Fittings.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=22957


Oh i figured that they made some kind of mod or threaded it. Thankyou Mrencyam! +Rep


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> She is sitting next to me after its 1st year fluid change,I always give a 2 year maintenance plan for customer rigs. Such a simple build but so much better off for it.
> 
> Interesting MilSpec fact: The 360 rad in the top was XSPC's experimental rad,the very first EX ever made. I got it unpainted with a warning to leaktest it properly. Thanks to the 2 Pauls!


She's a year old already? Man, where does the time go?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Oh i figured that they made some kind of mod or threaded it. Thankyou Mrencyam! +Rep


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> She is sitting next to me after its 1st year fluid change,I always give a 2 year maintenance plan for customer rigs. Such a simple build but so much better off for it.
> 
> Interesting MilSpec fact: The 360 rad in the top was XSPC's experimental rad,the very first EX ever made. I got it unpainted with a warning to leaktest it properly. Thanks to the 2 Pauls!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She's a year old already? Man, where does the time go?
Click to expand...

I know,it soon goes....

How about a non rig pic for Gappo?

p0pe does nice shots like this....


----------



## Roxycon

Do we post random pictures now?


----------



## el gappo

Good shout on on MOTM pics guys. We've ran into that before, it was a bit wierd having the same rig up there 2 months in a row.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think its a month or 2 away,Pantsbandit will know more......


I'm going to tap up the new rules and post them up for discussion this weekend so we can all agree, your (everyone) input is important. We wouldn't be revamping the contest without it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know,it soon goes....
> 
> How about a non rig pic for Gappo?
> 
> p0pe does nice shots like this....


That's real nice, does he have a gallery or thread I can have a peek at?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think its a month or 2 away,Pantsbandit will know more......
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to tap up the new rules and post them up for discussion this weekend so we can all agree, your (everyone) input is important. We wouldn't be revamping the contest without it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know,it soon goes....
> 
> How about a non rig pic for Gappo?
> 
> p0pe does nice shots like this....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's real nice, does he have a gallery or thread I can have a peek at?
Click to expand...

Yeah,he has stuff on Bittech and FB,I just messaged him for any 'stock' shots that OCN can use. I will forward them on or link you into the mail? Im in TS btw...


----------



## Zamoldac

My 290 got *COOLER*












Sorry for the Nexus 4 pics..


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> My 290 got *COOLER*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the Nexus 4 pics..











Dont be sorry! that looks awesome!
Always loved those coolers! looks awesome dude!


----------



## VSG

Love that block, especially with the custom shroud that B-Neg made for it.


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont be sorry! that looks awesome!
> Always loved those coolers! looks awesome dude!


Thanks! Loving it also, I'm glad I didn't go with the nickel version, it would have looked kinda cheesy near my fine aged components









@*geggeg*: What custom shroud? I must have missed it







.


----------



## VSG

It's on his build log, but here is one image:



Hey B-Neg, we ok with copyright here?


----------



## Zamoldac

Dat...shroud


----------



## VSG

Go through his build log I linked above, he explains how that was done.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I'd love to enter mine, but I have a few more things to add before it's finished, and to take better pictures.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2088.jpg.html


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'd love to enter mine, but I have a few more things to add before it's finished, and to take better pictures.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2088.jpg.html


Considering that yours is flowing with originality (pun semi-intended), it would definitely get a ton of votes!


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hello folks


Absolutely amazing. I hope they expand their block range for X99 blocks when those boards are out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No.
> 
> He doesnt participate in this forum other than to spam pics.
> 
> Nice build tho.


Ahahaha. I don't quite like his component selection, but it looks decent.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Considering that yours is flowing with originality (pun semi-intended), it would definitely get a ton of votes!


Thanks, but maybe I'll enter in the next round when it's 100% done. All I have left to do really is the cabling. I'm all thumbs when it comes to doing my own cables, so it'll have to wait until next week or so when Lutro0 is back from his honeymoon.


----------



## BradleyW

Does anyone have experience with vibrating and/or whining D5 pumps, or vibrating reservoirs?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with vibrating and/or whining D5 pumps, or vibrating reservoirs?


yep. decoupling can do wonders. What is going on?


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep. decoupling can do wonders. What is going on?


I get super high pitch whining with my D5, I put some foam on it and now its fine. The foam does mean I need it outside my case that is annoying.

Can anyone recommend a good pump that does not have any of the above problems?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep. decoupling can do wonders. What is going on?


My D5 has become whiny at speed settings 3.5 to 4. Speeds 4 to 5 provide bad oscillating vibrations. I've tried taking the pump apart and giving it a good clean out. Everything seemed in order. The pump is also causing the Res to vibrate. Moving the pump and Res around whilst the system is on does not seem to change the vibrations or whining much. It's a little annoying. I felt like switching the pump for a new one but I wish there was some way to do so without losing the fluid.


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My D5 has become whiny at speed settings 3.5 to 4. Speeds 4 to 5 provide bad oscillating vibrations. I've tried taking the pump apart and giving it a good clean out. Everything seemed in order. The pump is also causing the Res to vibrate. Moving the pump and Res around whilst the system is on does not seem to change the vibrations or whining much. It's a little annoying. I felt like switching the pump for a new one but I wish there was some way to do so without losing the fluid.


I also get whining at some speeds and general pump noise at others.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I wish there was some way to do so without losing the fluid.


I take it you are not using distilled water?

How does stilled water compare to other coolants? For performance?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My D5 has become whiny at speed settings 3.5 to 4. Speeds 4 to 5 provide bad oscillating vibrations. I've tried taking the pump apart and giving it a good clean out. Everything seemed in order. The pump is also causing the Res to vibrate. Moving the pump and Res around whilst the system is on does not seem to change the vibrations or whining much. It's a little annoying. I felt like switching the pump for a new one but I wish there was some way to do so without losing the fluid.


I have seen that vibration and noise does increase markedly when the bearing is wearing out. The wear allows the impeller to move around more on the ceramic ball.
Not saying that is what is happening, just something I have seen in mine. I replaced the impellers on two of my pumps not long ago and they returned to whisper silence again.

I don't have a good enough camera at the moment to take a decent shot of the bearings on the impellers I took out but the ball sockets can get much wider, deeper and rougher before the impeller will actually start touching the pump wall and death becomes super obvious.

Edit:

Bad Bearing



Good Bearing


----------



## BradleyW

Thanks for the input everyone, and thanks for the bearing images. Here is a shot of my system. Maybe someone might spot something? +1 to those who helped.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## VSG

This might be dumb but any chance those fans in the front are moving around the pump base (that looks like a Shoggy sandwich)?


----------



## pc-illiterate

i would try using a double rotary 90* fitting. its a shoggy alright.

*EDIT* - a 90* double rotary on the pump inlet.


----------



## skupples

shoggy sammich!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This might be dumb but any chance those fans in the front are moving around the pump base (that looks like a Shoggy sandwich)?


I had the fans off when testing the pump so they could not contribute to any noise. I should have mentioned that.
Since day 1, this pump has always vibrated at speeds 4 and 5. It fills the room completely when you stand away from the PC. Up close, there's no noise.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I had the fans off when testing the pump so they could not contribute to any noise. I should have mentioned that.
> Since day 1, this pump has always vibrated at speeds 4 and 5. It fills the room completely when you stand away from the PC. Up close, there's no noise.


Are you sure that you didn't have your pump sucking in air when you first started it? This is the most common reason why these can become noisy so quickly. Running these pumps while dry for even a few seconds can damage the bearing and cause them to become noisy due to a bearing that's no longer balanced. With the way that your pump is fed by that angled fitting, I'd say this is likely the case.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I had the fans off when testing the pump so they could not contribute to any noise. I should have mentioned that.
> Since day 1, this pump has always vibrated at speeds 4 and 5. It fills the room completely when you stand away from the PC. Up close, there's no noise.


Quick question. Have you try to place the pump pointing up and not sideways. You mention that moving the pump around didn't change the noise thing. d5 pumps are very quiet and should not be like that specially with a shoggy sandwich below it. Seem like rma time. Did you got that one new? How long have been running?

good luck mate.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thanks for the input everyone, and thanks for the bearing images. Here is a shot of my system. Maybe someone might spot something? +1 to those who helped.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There is a chance your configuration is causing it. You have a 90 degree right on the input, and the output is 90 degrees vertically. I fixed my pump noises just by the config and changing the input/outputs. Try having the res feed directly into the pump without major bends and the output to not be straight up.


----------



## skupples

I guess i'm lucky. have 90s on in and out... actually, the in has 3 90s from res to pump.


----------



## Arm3nian

Don't you have ddcs? My d5 was making swishing noises and it sounded like it was going to fail, changed the output and it's silent at all speeds... I don't know how it's even possible.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

90's on the outlet are fine,90's on the inlet are to be avoided. Pretty sure Martin tested something along those lines...
As Bram already mentioned,running the bearings dry cab lead to surface imperfections on the bearing which can lead to premature bearing fail.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I got a quick question for you guys, can one of these Bitspower 120mm Water Tank Mount Panel handle a Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 80 with the top and pump attached to it or would it be to much weight and just slip loose?

Thanks


----------



## WiSK

I painted my PE240 and PE120 rads, filed out the holes so that the barbs sit inside and I can avoid using those pesky EK-extender fittings.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess i'm lucky. have 90s on in and out... actually, the in has 3 90s from res to pump.


Nice one, it would be great to see an image of that. It might help me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Are you sure that you didn't have your pump sucking in air when you first started it? This is the most common reason why these can become noisy so quickly. Running these pumps while dry for even a few seconds can damage the bearing and cause them to become noisy due to a bearing that's no longer balanced. With the way that your pump is fed by that angled fitting, I'd say this is likely the case.


I'm sure the pump did not suck in air. Despite the bend, the pump was easily saturated in liquid at all times (I can see because my pump top is acrylic).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quick question. Have you try to place the pump pointing up and not sideways. You mention that moving the pump around didn't change the noise thing. d5 pumps are very quiet and should not be like that specially with a shoggy sandwich below it. Seem like rma time. Did you got that one new? How long have been running?
> 
> good luck mate.


Been running for 6 months.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> There is a chance your configuration is causing it. You have a 90 degree right on the input, and the output is 90 degrees vertically. I fixed my pump noises just by the config and changing the input/outputs. Try having the res feed directly into the pump without major bends and the output to not be straight up.


I'm not sure how I could change my configuration in future?

Also, I've heard that once you reach a certain point in fluid movement speed, you don't see performance benefits. What speed would you guy's run my D5 at for my loop?
I currently have it set to 3.5 and it is very quiet now. Anything higher presents issues.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Thank you.


----------



## Pimphare

@el gappo

So many great builds to choose from for the front page! I'd like to recommend this masterpiece by fast_fate.

I like how he implemented a dual bay res internally at the bottom of the case. I'm really in awe by all of his work.


----------



## charliebrown

ok so i lost like a 1/2 inch of water in my res in a week any idea why everything is tight


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> ok so i lost like a 1/2 inch of water in my res in a week any idea why everything is tight


Just the air being replaced for fluid within the loop.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> There is a chance your configuration is causing it. You have a 90 degree right on the input, and the output is 90 degrees vertically. I fixed my pump noises just by the config and changing the input/outputs. Try having the res feed directly into the pump without major bends and the output to not be straight up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 90's on the outlet are fine,90's on the inlet are to be avoided. Pretty sure Martin tested something along those lines...
> As Bram already mentioned,running the bearings dry cab lead to surface imperfections on the bearing which can lead to premature bearing fail.


this guy had a problem
http://www.overclock.net/t/1395198/do-90-degree-bends-in-loops-actually-affect-cooling#post_20069030
Artikbot - "Apparently so, but my experience conflicts with Martin's.
If I put a 90deg straight out of the pump or straight into it, it becomes SUPER loud. Performance is similar, but the noise is unbearable (compared to straight output/nput)."

a few posts down martin said
My test does not include pump close proximity effects. I only tested restriction losses. I have done some pumpnelbow testing, but it likely depends on the pump. In industrial pump system design practice is to avoid elbows at the pump inlet side of the pump within 4x the pipe diameter. Reason for this is the elbow can cause enough negative pressure to induce cavitation as well as unbalancing the impeller flow. Outlet is generally less of a concern.
I have measure the benefits of removing elbows at the inlet side such as going from a factory DDC top to aftermarket top with inlet elbow removed etc.
Anyhow, I would generally avoid elbows in close proximity to the pump if possible, my test was purley based on pressure drop or restriction loss.

use a double rotary 90* like this. no matter how much less a single 90* flows, this will flow better at higher speeds.
javascriptopupWindow('http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=popup_image_scroll&products_id=27393&image_scroll_id=0')


----------



## Dortheleus

I was wondering, for the first flush of my new WC setup can I simply use boiled tap water?


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Just the air being replaced for fluid within the loop.


so no worries then right or do i need to top it off


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> I was wondering, for the first flush of my new WC setup can I simply use boiled tap water?


Yes. No need to be at 100 C but yes can use tap water. Just be sure to flush a few times after with distil to replace any trace of the tap water.


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> I was wondering, for the first flush of my new WC setup can I simply use boiled tap water?


after rinse with distilled water


----------



## Gunderman456

You can, but your last flush should be with distilled water.

Edit:
I've always wanted to do this; Ninja'd.


----------



## WiSK

There's an echo in here


----------



## Dortheleus

So I still have to make myself some Distiled. I don't want to use my bought EK liquid to flush my parts even for the last flush.

How many flushes? Until clear?


----------



## skupples

Ohngreat... Seems I'm really setting my self up for disaster w. 90s on both ends and running 3 DDC.
I had no other options.. It would have looked really funky having a soft tube coming out and up from the pump.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Ohngreat... Seems I'm really setting my self up for disaster w. 90s on both ends and running 3 DDC.


Can I get an image of your loop?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> So I still have to make myself some Distiled. I don't want to use my bought EK liquid to flush my parts even for the last flush.
> 
> How many flushes? Until clear?


You don't have to make distilled, it should be available at supermarket or pharmacy. Demineralised water is also acceptable for flushing. As long as you don't leave any mineral deposits inside any components.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just snag a gallon o' distilled, normally cheap I got Deer Park which on the label states safe for small appliances


----------



## Pimphare

What about the people who live in areas where distilled water is scarce? Could they get by with using drinking water and add some kind of additive and with more frequent maintenance perhaps?


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You don't have to make distilled, it should be available at supermarket or pharmacy. Demineralised water is also acceptable for flushing. As long as you don't leave any mineral deposits inside any components.


So I could use filtered tap water then? Cause when it comes to clean water, our tap water here in Montreal is pretty clean.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still contains contaminants the will cause issues with your loop.And in GA distilled is far from scarce (get it from a Publix), but in Quebec CA not too sure if and how scarce it would be.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> So I could use filtered tap water then? Cause when it comes to clean water, our tap water here in Montreal is pretty clean.


Run tap (or any filtered,etc.) water through your loop 1-2 times, then do about 3-4 full distilled flushes of your loop. Distilled is cheap in the USA and Canada. So go to your local grocery store and pick up a few gallon jugs of the stuff. Demineralized water (also known as DI water) isn't as recommended since there can still be mineral deposits in the water, and the DI process doesn't remove bacteria and other organic matter.

This process has never failed me personally and has left me with a squeeky clean loop.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> So I could use filtered tap water then? Cause when it comes to clean water, our tap water here in Montreal is pretty clean.


I had a hard time finding distilled water and made my own for a while until I discovered that Shopper's Drug Mart sells it in 4 litre jugs.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Dang that would suck to have no distilled water sold near me, I refill and flush so many times due to hardware changes, I would go crazy if I had to make it everytime lol

Good thing Fred Meyers near me has it in 1gallon jugs

PS. There Has to be a easy way to use acrylic tubing and remove the cpu block lol, if not I need to invent it


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> So I could use filtered tap water then? Cause when it comes to clean water, our tap water here in Montreal is pretty clean.


If worse comes to worse, you can always pay an arm and a leg for it from FrozenCPU.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess i'm lucky. have 90s on in and out... actually, the in has 3 90s from res to pump.


Nice one, it would be great to see an image of that. It might help me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Are you sure that you didn't have your pump sucking in air when you first started it? This is the most common reason why these can become noisy so quickly. Running these pumps while dry for even a few seconds can damage the bearing and cause them to become noisy due to a bearing that's no longer balanced. With the way that your pump is fed by that angled fitting, I'd say this is likely the case.


I'm sure the pump did not suck in air. Despite the bend, the pump was easily saturated in liquid at all times (I can see because my pump top is acrylic).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quick question. Have you try to place the pump pointing up and not sideways. You mention that moving the pump around didn't change the noise thing. d5 pumps are very quiet and should not be like that specially with a shoggy sandwich below it. Seem like rma time. Did you got that one new? How long have been running?
> 
> good luck mate.


Been running for 6 months.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> There is a chance your configuration is causing it. You have a 90 degree right on the input, and the output is 90 degrees vertically. I fixed my pump noises just by the config and changing the input/outputs. Try having the res feed directly into the pump without major bends and the output to not be straight up.


I'm not sure how I could change my configuration in future?

Also, I've heard that once you reach a certain point in fluid movement speed, you don't see performance benefits. What speed would you guy's run my D5 at for my loop?
I currently have it set to 3.5 and it is very quiet now. Anything higher presents issues.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Thank you.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You know that only rads need flushing? Not the whole loop...unless you find traces of cutting fluid....
Was the components out of the loop,assemble and go. Flushing as part of a loop spreads any contaminants thru it.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You know that only rads need flushing? Not the whole loop...unless you find traces of cutting fluid....
> Was the components out of the loop,assemble and go. Flushing as part of a loop spreads any contaminants thru it.


I like better to flush the whole thing. At least the first time and know everything is ok.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Can I get an image of your loop?


Yeaair. Will take one when I get home if the ones in the last pages of my build log.

I'm a paranoid flusher. Flush the living hell out of my rads. Then flush the entire system. Ive also started washing my fittings because I started moving how dirty they are while working with white tube.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeaair. Will take one when I get home if the ones in the last pages of my build log


That would be excellent, thank you very much.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You know that only rads need flushing? Not the whole loop...unless you find traces of cutting fluid....
> Was the components out of the loop,assemble and go. Flushing as part of a loop spreads any contaminants thru it.
> 
> 
> 
> I like better to flush the whole thing. At least the first time and know everything is ok.
Click to expand...

No problem,just wash the components individually rather than build it then flush it,all you will do is spread any contaminants otherwise.


----------



## Jeronbernal

I second that, I use a koolance filter sometimes, and when I check it part way through the month, sometimes I'll see things in there you would have no idea where it came from lol


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No problem,just wash the components individually rather than build it then flush it,all you will do is spread any contaminants otherwise.


So I use the pump and each piece, one after the other to flush it correctly?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> So I use the pump and each piece, one after the other to flush it correctly?


You can just flush the Rads on their own by filling them up, giving them a shake and let the water back out. Repeat a few times. Be careful when using boiling water. Boiled water can leave a film of crap in the Rad if your kettle has not been cleaned and flushed.

Does anyone know what this is? (See the silver/grey inside the Rad)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No problem,just wash the components individually rather than build it then flush it,all you will do is spread any contaminants otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> So I use the pump and each piece, one after the other to flush it correctly?
Click to expand...

You dont need to use the pump at all.

This is my routine,had it for years...mixed copper and nickel....silver in some rigs with nickel....all the things people say no to. These are long term loops,12/18 months maintenance.

I have NEVER had a plating nor corrosion issue.

Rads.

1. Run the hot tap from your sink into 1 port of the rad,leave with the tap running for 5 minutes (enough time for a smoke)
2 .Drain the rad to half full and shake.
3. Repeat 1 and 2 twice.
4 Dunk the rad in a bucket of DI,half fill and shake.
5 .Drain in to the sink.
6 .Repeat 4 and 5
7. On the last rinse,hold a finger over one port and place the rad in to the bucket and blow down the other port,you are checking for watertightness,air means a leak
8 .Dry and fit.

Blocks.

1. Wash the block in a light detergent,you are aiming to remove the cutting fluids which can be oil based. Rinse with DI water.
2. If you are willing to strip the block then do so,look for machine swarf and debris in microchannels.
3. Dry,assemble and fit.

Tops and res.

1. Wash in a light detergent
2. Rinse with DI
3. Dry and fit.

If you want to check any stripped down and reassembled blocks for watertightness then submerge the block with 2 bits of tube attached and blow in to one side while the other is sealed....like you would test a bike innertube.
Thats it,all I have ever needed to do and its all I recommend. I have been doing this for a long time with zero problems.
People massively over complicate things that really are very simple.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> So I use the pump and each piece, one after the other to flush it correctly?
> 
> 
> 
> You can just flush the Rads on their own by filling them up, giving them a shake and let the water back out. Repeat a few times. Be careful when using boiling water. Boiled water can leave a film of crap in the Rad if your kettle has not been cleaned and flushed.
> 
> Does anyone know what this is? (See the silver/grey inside the Rad)
Click to expand...

Solder from the tube union


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> [...] Does anyone know what this is? (See the silver/grey inside the Rad)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Reminds me of this recent topic, just not near as bad ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1488282/phobya-1080-radiator-is-this-normal-or-it-is-a-manufacturing-issue/


----------



## rjb64

My First WC Loop.....built a number o PC's over the last 7 yrs or so, but got so tired of the 15 "whooosh" from my GPU's, finally took the leap.
Thanks to all the advice I got from some Members over at HWC's and Daz.....certainly not crazy OC's but evrything is adequate for my single 1440p Dell









CPU 3930K stable:
4.85 Ghz - 4.9 Ghz (Offset Mode +.095v , vcore under load 1.395 - 1.41v
GTX 780Ti's
Core +155 Mhz Memory + 266 Mhz

Ambient Temp 22c
CPU Max Temps LinX 65 - 72c / Gaming BF4 65c on one core the rest arounf high 50's
GPU Looping Heaven 30 min or an Hr BF4 settles at GPU #1 47c / GPU #2 45c - Both GU's seem to idle at whatever the ambient Temp is.

Cooling:
2 x EX360 (push / pull)
Photon 170 D5 Combo
EK Full WB's on Ti's
EK Supremacy CPU

I am going to be making some minor changes (not really necessary but looking for excuses to "play" ), intend to:
- Replace top EX 360 push / pull with RX 480 V3 push
- Add additional EX 240 below along with the existing EX 360 (both will be push only)

Essentially trying to improve cooling a tad more while eliminating push / pull, looking for a little quieter.

Cheers n thanks for stopping by.....really enjoy the info available on this Forum









http://s30.photobucket.com/user/sextant2/media/DSC03198_zps0a1cf62d.jpg.html

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/sextant2/media/DSC03196_zps3a8a87d6.jpg.html

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/sextant2/media/DSC03213_zps8d231f6a.jpg.html

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/sextant2/media/DSC03221_zps95afc05d.jpg.html

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/sextant2/media/DSC03222_zps490c9a0b.jpg.html


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I currently have it set to 3.5 and it is very quiet now. Anything higher presents issues.
> [/SPOILER]
> Thank you.


using that 90* fitting is probably causing cavitation at the higher speed. the res cant keep up with the pump flow because the fitting is limiting it. as i said earlier, use a double rotary 90* fitting, aka 2 45* fittings as a single elbow.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> using that 90* fitting is probably causing cavitation at the higher speed. the res cant keep up with the pump flow because the fitting is limiting it. as i said earlier, use a double rotary 90* fitting, aka 2 45* fittings as a single elbow.


I will look into your suggestion for the next time I break my loop down. Right now I'm running at speed 3.5 and finally the pump is silent from whining and vibrations. Anything faster causes issues. I would have thought that cavitation in general is caused by using angle fittings on the outlet? FYI, when I was filling the loop, it took the pump about 2 secons to suck all the fluid out of the Res at speed 4. Could this mean that the 90 fitting is not a limiting factor. That fluid shifted might quick!


----------



## Pimphare

@DarthBaggins

I wasn't speaking for myself. I get my distilled water from Wally World, but there are few who live in less accessible locations that have reported here not being able to drive down to a local store and buying distilled water.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @DarthBaggins
> 
> I wasn't speaking for myself. I get my distilled water from Wally World, but there are few who live in less accessible locations that have reported here not being able to drive down to a local store and buying distilled water.


Not sure where the original post's author lives but Amazon would most likely have it in their area.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont need to use the pump at all.
> 
> This is my routine,had it for years...mixed copper and nickel....silver in some rigs with nickel....all the things people say no to. These are long term loops,12/18 months maintenance.
> 
> I have NEVER had a plating nor corrosion issue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Wisdom from BNegative
> 
> 
> 
> Rads.
> 
> 1. Run the hot tap from your sink into 1 port of the rad,leave with the tap running for 5 minutes (enough time for a smoke)
> 2 .Drain the rad to half full and shake.
> 3. Repeat 1 and 2 twice.
> 4 Dunk the rad in a bucket of DI,half fill and shake.
> 5 .Drain in to the sink.
> 6 .Repeat 4 and 5
> 7. On the last rinse,hold a finger over one port and place the rad in to the bucket and blow down the other port,you are checking for watertightness,air means a leak
> 8 .Dry and fit.
> 
> Blocks.
> 
> 1. Wash the block in a light detergent,you are aiming to remove the cutting fluids which can be oil based. Rinse with DI water.
> 2. If you are willing to strip the block then do so,look for machine swarf and debris in microchannels.
> 3. Dry,assemble and fit.
> 
> Tops and res.
> 
> 1. Wash in a light detergent
> 2. Rinse with DI
> 3. Dry and fit.
> 
> If you want to check any stripped down and reassembled blocks for watertightness then submerge the block with 2 bits of tube attached and blow in to one side while the other is sealed....like you would test a bike innertube.
> Thats it,all I have ever needed to do and its all I recommend. I have been doing this for a long time with zero problems.
> People massively over complicate things that really are very simple.
> Solder from the tube union


Thanks alot BNegative I'll try and follow your wise instructions.







+1 Rep


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Thanks alot BNegative I'll try and follow your wise instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 Rep


I'm definitely saving those instructions for my own use as well! B Neg bringing the wisdom as usual!


----------



## skupples

Cavitation is caused by rapid changes in pressure. It normally sounds like you have pebbles/air stuck in the pump. It is normally visible if you have a clear top.


----------



## Pimphare

@Wolfsbora

I suppose that may be an option. Ordering a gallon or more of water would most likely cost more to ship it than what the actual water costs due to it's weight.

Anyhow, I'm surely glad to live down the road from Walmart!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @Wolfsbora
> 
> I suppose that may be an option. Ordering a gallon or more of water would most likely cost more to ship it than what the actual water costs do to it's weight.
> 
> Anyhow, I'm surely glad to live down the road from Walmart!


Oh yeah, a gallon of water weighs approximately 7lbs. It isn't the cheapest thing to ship, that's for sure! Maybe if OP could find some with Prime shipping.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Got the beast put together for now... waiting to get the D5 and res but like I said that can wait... for now this is my monster of a PC


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Got the beast put together for now... waiting to get the D5 and res but like I said that can wait... for now this is my monster of a PC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome!! You should cool those monster 780s as well!!


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Looks awesome!! You should cool those monster 780s as well!!


Been thinking about it, now that I have the space to do it. The Cosmos 2 is titanic... but all that much more room to Water Cool with.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont need to use the pump at all.
> 
> This is my routine,had it for years...mixed copper and nickel....silver in some rigs with nickel....all the things people say no to. These are long term loops,12/18 months maintenance.
> 
> I have NEVER had a plating nor corrosion issue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Wisdom from BNegative
> 
> 
> 
> Rads.
> 
> 1. Run the hot tap from your sink into 1 port of the rad,leave with the tap running for 5 minutes (enough time for a smoke)
> 2 .Drain the rad to half full and shake.
> 3. Repeat 1 and 2 twice.
> 4 Dunk the rad in a bucket of DI,half fill and shake.
> 5 .Drain in to the sink.
> 6 .Repeat 4 and 5
> 7. On the last rinse,hold a finger over one port and place the rad in to the bucket and blow down the other port,you are checking for watertightness,air means a leak
> 8 .Dry and fit.
> 
> Blocks.
> 
> 1. Wash the block in a light detergent,you are aiming to remove the cutting fluids which can be oil based. Rinse with DI water.
> 2. If you are willing to strip the block then do so,look for machine swarf and debris in microchannels.
> 3. Dry,assemble and fit.
> 
> Tops and res.
> 
> 1. Wash in a light detergent
> 2. Rinse with DI
> 3. Dry and fit.
> 
> If you want to check any stripped down and reassembled blocks for watertightness then submerge the block with 2 bits of tube attached and blow in to one side while the other is sealed....like you would test a bike innertube.
> Thats it,all I have ever needed to do and its all I recommend. I have been doing this for a long time with zero problems.
> People massively over complicate things that really are very simple.
> Solder from the tube union
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks alot BNegative I'll try and follow your wise instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 Rep
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Thanks alot BNegative I'll try and follow your wise instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 Rep
> 
> 
> 
> I'm definitely saving those instructions for my own use as well! B Neg bringing the wisdom as usual!
Click to expand...

Its what has always worked for me.

Dont get me wrong,heavily tarnished blocks will need a blast of citric acid but most tarnish will remove with a toothbrush and some elbow grease. You wouldnt use acid for just general flushing.

Some of Micks coolants need a prep regime,personally I think its a bit excessive but its what he recommends for _his_ product

Dortheleus,im jelly...I am a massive BranVan3000 fan and would love to see them in Montreal......


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dortheleus,im jelly...I am a massive BranVan3000 fan and would love to see them in Montreal......


Ya I'm a big fan also. I'm wondering if they will be here this summer, I never know when they're in town.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @Wolfsbora
> 
> I suppose that may be an option. Ordering a gallon or more of water would most likely cost more to ship it than what the actual water costs do to it's weight.
> 
> Anyhow, I'm surely glad to live down the road from Walmart!


Yup Deer Park Distilled is where it's at


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You know that only rads need flushing? Not the whole loop...unless you find traces of cutting fluid....
> Was the components out of the loop,assemble and go. Flushing as part of a loop spreads any contaminants thru it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> I like better to flush the whole thing. At least the first time and know everything is ok.


I've had shreds of delrin inside block before, probably from poor machining of G1/4 ports. Managed to get an RMA from Swiftech since I coincidentally video'd the first filling. The pump sounded normal, then suddenly brrrrrrrp


----------



## kpoeticg

Was it the Apogee Drive II? My Apogee Drive had leftover crumbs inside where you can unscrew and reposition the ports. One of the reviews i read before i bought it pointed that out tho so i knew it was gonna be there. Took 2 seconds to clean out, but i could see how it could mess up the pump if you didn't look for it first


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You know that only rads need flushing? Not the whole loop...unless you find traces of cutting fluid....
> Was the components out of the loop,assemble and go. Flushing as part of a loop spreads any contaminants thru it.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> I like better to flush the whole thing. At least the first time and know everything is ok.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've had shreds of delrin inside block before, probably from poor machining of G1/4 ports. Managed to get an RMA from Swiftech since I coincidentally video'd the first filling. The pump sounded normal, then suddenly brrrrrrrp
Click to expand...

Im quite meticulous with pump tops,seen so many with swarf on them,I tend to smooth off sharp edges very gently with 1800 grit paper to avoid creating a low pressure point for cavitation. I dont recommend it as I will not be responsible for the outcome with other peoples kit.
Swiftech blocks (sorry Bram) have always been a minefield of copper swarf from the microchannels for me,MIPS,AquaC and Watercool have always been the best finished.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im quite meticulous with pump tops,seen so many with swarf on them,I tend to smooth off sharp edges very gently with 1800 grit paper to avoid creating a low pressure point for cavitation. I dont recommend it as I will not be responsible for the outcome with other peoples kit.
> Swiftech blocks (sorry Bram) have always been a minefield of copper swarf from the microchannels for me,MIPS,AquaC and Watercool have always been the best finished.


I know what you mean. We did have some issues with the way the ports on these were machined, and that's why we go over them here and clean them up before shipping them out to customers and resellers. Some might get missed from time to time, but that's why we provide the utmost in customer support to take care of these issues. I appreciate everyone's honesty and you can always PM me if you have any issues with our products.


----------



## whiteskymage

Hello guys,
I decided to join since I am still unsure of my WC build plan. Let me just post it here.

*Case:* Corsair Obsidian 750D
*Waterblocks:* RayStorm CPU WaterBlock + 5mm white LEDs
KOMODO-NV-LE (GTX 880) (LED white)
*Radiators:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 280mm (60mm thick); Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360mm (80mm thick);
(optional) Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm (45mm thick);
*Reservoirs:* (x1) Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservoir - Clear
*Pumps:* (x1) Swiftech MCP655 12V Pump
*Fittings:* (x14) Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Compression Fitting - Silver+
(x1) Koolance Dual VID Connector - Adjustable 1 Slot Spacing
*Tube:* (x1) TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm - Elegant White
*Thermal Compounds & Liquid Solution:
*Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 3.5 Grams with ArctiClean 60 ML Kit
Distilled Water + KillCoil
*Radiator high pressure fans:
*(x3) NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM Max. 29.7 dBA
(x2) NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM Max. 31.5 dBA
*Accessories:*
4-pin fan splitters
ATX Pin-Bridging Plug (24 Pin)

Now I am not sure if this is enough for cooling a 6-core Haswell-E CPU and 2 Maxwell GTX 880 GPUs (let's however assume I am about to put an i7 4930K and 2 GTX 780TIs on watercooling, will it work?)

Please comment on this WC component list. I am very unsure about putting another 240mm radiator on the bottom and 140mm rad in the rear, since there will be space, but do I really need them in case I wanna cool my RAM(with no OC) and HDD as well? Also, without the cages, how can I secure an HDD on the back tray of the MB?

Secondly, can you suggest me a *high air flow* 120mm and 140mm fans? I have chosen the new Noctua fans (the industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM) for my radiators, and since they have very high air pressure ratings, I will not need any Push/Pull config when putting them on 80mm and 60mm thick rads (correct me if I am wrong).

Other than that, I see people using 45, 30, 90 degree fittings. In my case, I use the PrimoChill tube which is said that it can bend nicely...So, do I need these bended-to-degree fittings?


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whiteskymage*
> 
> Hello guys,
> I decided to join since I am still unsure of my WC build plan. Let me just post it here.
> 
> *Case:* Corsair Obsidian 750D
> *Waterblocks:* RayStorm CPU WaterBlock + 5mm white LEDs
> KOMODO-NV-LE (GTX 880) (LED white)
> *Radiators:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 280mm (60mm thick); Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360mm (80mm thick);
> (optional) Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm (45mm thick);
> *Reservoirs:* (x1) Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservoir - Clear
> *Pumps:* (x1) Swiftech MCP655 12V Pump
> *Fittings:* (x14) Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Compression Fitting - Silver+
> (x1) Koolance Dual VID Connector - Adjustable 1 Slot Spacing
> *Tube:* (x1) TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm - Elegant White
> *Thermal Compounds & Liquid Solution:
> *Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 3.5 Grams with ArctiClean 60 ML Kit
> Distilled Water + KillCoil
> *Radiator high pressure fans:
> *(x3) NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM Max. 29.7 dBA
> (x2) NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM Max. 31.5 dBA
> *Accessories:*
> 4-pin fan splitters
> ATX Pin-Bridging Plug (24 Pin)
> 
> Now I am not sure if this is enough for cooling a 6-core Haswell-E CPU and 2 Maxwell GTX 880 GPUs (let's however assume I am about to put an i7 4930K and 2 GTX 780TIs on watercooling, will it work?)
> 
> Please comment on this WC component list. I am very unsure about putting another 240mm radiator on the bottom and 140mm rad in the rear, since there will be space, but do I really need them in case I wanna cool my RAM(with no OC) and HDD as well? Also, without the cages, how can I secure an HDD on the back tray of the MB?
> 
> Secondly, can you suggest me a *high air flow* 120mm and 140mm fans? I have chosen the new Noctua fans (the industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM) for my radiators, and since they have very high air pressure ratings, I will not need any Push/Pull config when putting them on 80mm and 60mm thick rads (correct me if I am wrong).
> 
> Other than that, I see people using 45, 30, 90 degree fittings. In my case, I use the PrimoChill tube which is said that it can bend nicely...So, do I need these bended-to-degree fittings?


Fitting requirements can vary due to a number of things. Loop order and case layout all play a big role. If its your first waterloop youd be best served by getting everything installed and then deciding what fittings youll need to get. Planning helps, but you never really know until you start running tubing.

Youll most likely end up with extra fittings. Alot of people, myself included, have anywhere from 10-20 extra fittings from different loop layouts. And as far as cooling capacity youll have more than enough. Your res choice is a little on the smaller side but I dont think thats going to affect anything. The general rule is 120mm of rad space per block plus 120mm extra.

So in reality youd be fine with a 360mm. Air temps in your room and fan selection on the radiator will play a bigger role in your overall temps anyway. With what youve chosen youll have more than enough radiator, and room for expansion if you want.

Fan selection will vary as well depending on what you want to spend. Personally Ive only used gentle typhoons and noiseblocker eloops. Ive read nothing but good things regarding alot of the noiseblocker fans as well as the newer corsair sp fans.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whiteskymage*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello guys,
> I decided to join since I am still unsure of my WC build plan. Let me just post it here.
> 
> *Case:* Corsair Obsidian 750D
> *Waterblocks:* RayStorm CPU WaterBlock + 5mm white LEDs
> KOMODO-NV-LE (GTX 880) (LED white)
> *Radiators:* Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 280mm (60mm thick); Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360mm (80mm thick);
> (optional) Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm (45mm thick);
> *Reservoirs:* (x1) Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservoir - Clear
> *Pumps:* (x1) Swiftech MCP655 12V Pump
> *Fittings:* (x14) Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Compression Fitting - Silver+
> (x1) Koolance Dual VID Connector - Adjustable 1 Slot Spacing
> *Tube:* (x1) TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm - Elegant White
> *Thermal Compounds & Liquid Solution:
> *Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 3.5 Grams with ArctiClean 60 ML Kit
> Distilled Water + KillCoil
> *Radiator high pressure fans:
> *(x3) NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM Max. 29.7 dBA
> (x2) NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM Max. 31.5 dBA
> *Accessories:*
> 4-pin fan splitters
> ATX Pin-Bridging Plug (24 Pin)
> 
> Now I am not sure if this is enough for cooling a 6-core Haswell-E CPU and 2 Maxwell GTX 880 GPUs (let's however assume I am about to put an i7 4930K and 2 GTX 780TIs on watercooling, will it work?)
> 
> Please comment on this WC component list. I am very unsure about putting another 240mm radiator on the bottom and 140mm rad in the rear, since there will be space, but do I really need them in case I wanna cool my RAM(with no OC) and HDD as well? Also, without the cages, how can I secure an HDD on the back tray of the MB?
> 
> Secondly, can you suggest me a *high air flow* 120mm and 140mm fans? I have chosen the new Noctua fans (the industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM) for my radiators, and since they have very high air pressure ratings, I will not need any Push/Pull config when putting them on 80mm and 60mm thick rads (correct me if I am wrong).
> 
> Other than that, I see people using 45, 30, 90 degree fittings. In my case, I use the PrimoChill tube which is said that it can bend nicely...So, do I need these bended-to-degree fittings?


please start a thread asking for help.


----------



## khemist

Not to happy with my EK Nickel block, noticed this on it after running d.i. water along with the nickel cpu block.


----------



## Jimhans1

Are you running anything else in the loop?? That looks like water scale.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> That's real nice, does he have a gallery or thread I can have a peek at?


LTTP on this, but some of my "artsy" shots I took:






Gallery here: http://imgur.com/a/ReFKB

That last one represents the blood, sweat, and tears we put into our projects. Except it was real blood.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Was it the Apogee Drive II? My Apogee Drive had leftover crumbs inside where you can unscrew and reposition the ports. One of the reviews i read before i bought it pointed that out tho so i knew it was gonna be there. Took 2 seconds to clean out, but i could see how it could mess up the pump if you didn't look for it first


Indeed it was








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Some might get missed from time to time, but that's why we provide the utmost in customer support to take care of these issues.


Yes, Gabe responded to my email and you to my forum post, both within 8 hours. I had a new pump from local reseller within 48 hours


----------



## khemist

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Are you running anything else in the loop?? That looks like water scale.


No, just d.i. and the silver monsoon plugs in the bayres.


----------



## VSG

Silver Monsoon plugs :'(


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to happy with my EK Nickel block, noticed this on it after running d.i. water along with the nickel cpu block.


That is not good...its not water scale,the brown is the copper coming thru.
Its always the points in the water but out of the flow path that start first,sadly I think you have become the latest EK victim.

Pull the block and clean it up,it could also be organic but that shot of the port kinda seals it for me,there is a 'mushroom ring' of compromised plating there.


----------



## khemist

First time i've ever used Nickel due to all the problems people have had but i thought it was sorted now.

If it really is that then i'm done with them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> First time i've ever used Nickel due to all the problems people have had but i thought it was sorted now.
> 
> If it really is that then i'm done with them.


Give it a clean and see what happens.

How did you prep your loop?


----------



## whiteskymage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Fitting requirements can vary due to a number of things. Loop order and case layout all play a big role. If its your first waterloop youd be best served by getting everything installed and then deciding what fittings youll need to get. Planning helps, but you never really know until you start running tubing.
> 
> Youll most likely end up with extra fittings. Alot of people, myself included, have anywhere from 10-20 extra fittings from different loop layouts. And as far as cooling capacity youll have more than enough. Your res choice is a little on the smaller side but I dont think thats going to affect anything. The general rule is 120mm of rad space per block plus 120mm extra.
> 
> So in reality youd be fine with a 360mm. Air temps in your room and fan selection on the radiator will play a bigger role in your overall temps anyway. With what youve chosen youll have more than enough radiator, and room for expansion if you want.
> 
> Fan selection will vary as well depending on what you want to spend. Personally Ive only used gentle typhoons and noiseblocker eloops. Ive read nothing but good things regarding alot of the noiseblocker fans as well as the newer corsair sp fans.


Well, I know I will probably end up with extra fittings, which is also fine so I can change them in case...For the reservoir, is it OK, if I go for a 250ml rad?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> First time i've ever used Nickel due to all the problems people have had but i thought it was sorted now.
> 
> If it really is that then i'm done with them.


Silver + Nickel = Galvanic corrosion.


----------



## VSG

Not necessarily every time but when I read silver plugs, I thought of it pretty much.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Give it a clean and see what happens.
> 
> How did you prep your loop?


Ran it through with hot water a few times and then rinsed with d.i..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to happy with my EK Nickel block, noticed this on it after running d.i. water along with the nickel cpu block.


Doesn't look abnormal, specially if you are running Dead Water, or Silver. Bust it open, scrub it off, & invest in something w/ anti-corrosive. It definitely isn't corrosion. Either scale, or buildup, or just discoloration. Nickel plating seems to eventually sheen over w/ an "oil slick" type look.

No one recommends using silver w/ nickel any more, & I personally believe anyone using nickel from any company should be using anti-corrosive.

I made the same mistake of running silver w/ EK nickel. Thought I had tons of corrosion. 99% of it cleaned off w/ a brasso type product. Lots of what seemed like metal deposit build up(possibly from the dead water?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That is not good...its not water scale,the brown is the copper coming thru.
> Its always the points in the water but out of the flow path that start first,sadly I think you have become the latest EK victim.
> 
> Pull the block and clean it up,it could also be organic but that shot of the port kinda seals it for me,there is a 'mushroom ring' of compromised plating there.


it looks allot like what I thought was corrosion in my own block, but cleaned up quite well w/ some polish.


----------



## lowfat

If someone wants artsy shots of watercooling hardware i likely have hundreds of pics to choose from.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> First time i've ever used Nickel due to all the problems people have had but i thought it was sorted now.
> 
> If it really is that then i'm done with them.
> 
> 
> 
> Silver + Nickel = Galvanic corrosion.
Click to expand...

Nope.

Silver and copper = Corrosion.
Silver does not corrode Nickel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If someone wants artsy shots of watercooling hardware i likely have hundreds of pics to choose from.


Im ashamed to say I forgot about your skills Low.

Gappo,get in here and talk to this man.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to happy with my EK Nickel block, noticed this on it after running d.i. water along with the nickel cpu block.
> 
> 
> 
> That is not good...its not water scale,the brown is the copper coming thru.
> Its always the points in the water but out of the flow path that start first,sadly I think you have become the latest EK victim.
> 
> Pull the block and clean it up,it could also be organic but that shot of the port kinda seals it for me,there is a 'mushroom ring' of compromised plating there.
Click to expand...

Looks kind of like algae. Need mo photos.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Agreed. Nice clear ones with the top off,I dont want to jump to conclusions based on those pics.
Some have mentioned before that the monsoon bullet has a small surface area,perhaps it is too small for effective use?
Having not owned one of those bullets nor seen one in the flesh,I cant comment on them. I used to use strips...however..that was all that was available.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> using that 90* fitting is probably causing cavitation at the higher speed. the res cant keep up with the pump flow because the fitting is limiting it. as i said earlier, use a double rotary 90* fitting, aka 2 45* fittings as a single elbow.


I will look into your suggestion for the next time I break my loop down. Right now I'm running at speed 3.5 and finally the pump is silent from whining and vibrations. Anything faster causes issues. I would have thought that cavitation in general is caused by using angle fittings on the outlet? FYI, when I was filling the loop, it took the pump about 2 secons to suck all the fluid out of the Res at speed 4. Could this mean that the 90 fitting is not a limiting factor. That fluid shifted mighty quick!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

when do you guys suggest fully cleaning rads and blocks, ever time you redo your loop (if your doing it every 6 months) or every year?

Sorry if its been asked before


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> when do you guys suggest fully cleaning rads and blocks, ever time you redo your loop (if your doing it every 6 months) or every year?
> 
> Sorry if its been asked before


I do my cleaning when I notice big jump in temps that can't be fixed by removing dust from filters/rads.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I do my cleaning when I notice big jump in temps that can't be fixed by removing dust from filters/rads.


Ah ok, gets confusing coz I've seen people that say they fully clean everything every couple of months then other people say they do it every few years

Guess its down to personal preference and performance?


----------



## whiteskymage

Hey guys,

If I mix brass and nickel plated copper waterblocks, is it a problem?


----------



## VSG

You are fine.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I will look into your suggestion for the next time I break my loop down. Right now I'm running at speed 3.5 and finally the pump is silent from whining and vibrations. Anything faster causes issues. I would have thought that cavitation in general is caused by using angle fittings on the outlet? FYI, when I was filling the loop, it took the pump about 2 secons to suck all the fluid out of the Res at speed 4. Could this mean that the 90 fitting is not a limiting factor. That fluid shifted mighty quick!






here you go, Bradley.

(Think there may have been some dust on my lens or something)


----------



## kidcapp

Leak testing while I wait for sleeved cables to arrive from Ensourced. Once I have my cables I will install the second 780 GTX which is in my current rig. Sorry for the poor quality images


----------



## Blackspots

Ok, good question about rigid pipes. How do you bend them, and what sort of fittings do you need? I know that flexible pipe uses compression fittings after you slip the tube on the barb (or a plain barb and no compression fitting), so how much different are the fittings used in rigid tube?


----------



## Jimhans1

@kidcapp Is that coolant white, or yellow, or just being washed out by the multiple colors of lighting in the system??


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Ok, good question about rigid pipes. How do you bend them, and what sort of fittings do you need? I know that flexible pipe uses compression fittings after you slip the tube on the barb (or a plain barb and no compression fitting), so how much different are the fittings used in rigid tube?


Might go have a look here sir: http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101

Edit: Sorry for the double post.


----------



## kidcapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @kidcapp Is that coolant white, or yellow, or just being washed out by the multiple colors of lighting in the system??


Its white and the LEDs are red.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> Its white and the LEDs are red.


That's a great looking build, but as Jimhans1 stated, it does look washed out with the red leds. White leds would look much better imo. Just a suggestion. Once again great job!!


----------



## kidcapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's a great looking build, but as Jimhans1 stated, it does look washed out with the red leds. White leds would look much better imo. Just a suggestion. Once again great job!!


Thank you. I agree with your suggestion. Switching to white LEDs or possibly switching to red coolant might be another option.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's a great looking build, but as Jimhans1 stated, it does look washed out with the red leds. White leds would look much better imo. Just a suggestion. Once again great job!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> Thank you. I agree with your suggestion. Switching to white LEDs or possibly switching to red coolant might be another option.


My two thoughts:

1: change out the red LEDs to white to match the lightbox.

2: Change out the lightbox LEDs to red to match the rest.

But I think the white coolant looks nice. Lots of builds with red coolant/lighting recently has tempered my feelings on red honestly.


----------



## kidcapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> My two thoughts:
> 
> 1: change out the red LEDs to white to match the lightbox.
> 
> 2: Change out the lightbox LEDs to red to match the rest.
> 
> But I think the white coolant looks nice. Lots of builds with red coolant/lighting recently has tempered my feelings on red honestly.


Thank you for your input. I think changing the red LEDs would be easier option of the two.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

If I have a Y splitter or even a T line connected to pump top with an adapter then 2 90 or 45° fittings, one down as a drain line the other up as the intake line from my front rad back into the pump top will I have any kinda problems?

Kinda like this, excuse my craptastic paint skills












Thanks


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> LTTP on this, but some of my "artsy" shots I took:
> 
> 
> Gallery here: http://imgur.com/a/ReFKB
> 
> That last one represents the blood, sweat, and tears we put into our projects. Except it was real blood.


What are those fittings in the first picture, do they have larger sizes? I've been looking for some nice push fittings but all the ones I find are under 10mm OD, too small.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*


I love the clean runs through the midplate, how hard was it to get the holes to accommodate the tube nice and snug and what did you use to drill them. Also, is that the full murder mod case or just parts, if it is which model.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I love the clean runs through the midplate, how hard was it to get the holes to accommodate the tube nice and snug and what did you use to drill them. Also, is that the full murder mod case or just parts, if it is which model.


Looks a modded like a tj11 to me.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Looks a modded like a tj11 to me.


True, I only glanced over the whole case quickly and didn't notice how much room there was around the rads. Murdermod TJ11 then


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I'm gonna be redoing my loop soon and I'm trying to work out how in the hell to make tube connecting both rads neater



I was thinking a 90° but it'll hit the fan wont it? unless I use a massive spacer to drop it past the fan

This tube is a pita


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I'm gonna be redoing my loop soon and I'm trying to work out how in the hell to make tube connecting both rads neater
> I was thinking a 90° but it'll hit the fan wont it? unless I use a massive spacer to drop it past the fan
> 
> This tube is a pita


Is there enough space for some sort of behind the mobo tray run? or even just a 90 coming out of the 240 pointing upwards then tuck the tube behind the 360. just brain storming here


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I'm gonna be redoing my loop soon and I'm trying to work out how in the hell to make tube connecting both rads neater
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking a 90° but it'll hit the fan wont it? unless I use a massive spacer to drop it past the fan
> 
> This tube is a pita


Grab a 20 or 25mm extension, and it should clear. I used one on my top pump to pass extend past the other fitting to they didn't hit each other.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Is there enough space for some sort of behind the mobo tray run? or even just a 90 coming out of the 240 pointing upwards then tuck the tube behind the 360. just brain storming here


Theres more then enough space behind the tray but not many grommets. Putting a 90 on the 240, didnt even think of that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Grab a 20 or 25mm extension, and it should clear. I used one on my top pump to pass extend past the other fitting to they didn't hit each other.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


II could try that, didnt really wanna use extensions tho but I may need to use one on my front rad so it can go back into the pump

Think I should be able to get away with the 90 up on the 240, hide the tube behind the 360 and maybe a 90 on the 360 toward the back of the case to meet up with the tube... should be enough room to do it without kinking









Thanks, guys been staring at that pic for 3 hours trying to work this out


----------



## Michelle911

can I join?







silly little h80 here... so many truly awesome things to see in this thread my mind is reeling... my build seemed like a big deal to me - until I saw this thread


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Not really a question for here but I dunno where else to ask

With FrozenCPU what shipping companys the best for international shipping?

Also do EK GPU blocks come with plugs for the holes or do you have to buy them to? never bought a GPU block before









Thanks


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Not really a question for here but I dunno where else to ask
> 
> With FrozenCPU what shipping companys the best for international shipping?
> 
> Also do EK GPU blocks come with plugs for the holes or do you have to buy them to? never bought a GPU block before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


 Yes the GPU blocks come with plugs (not barbs or fittings, but plugs yes.)


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yes the GPU blocks come with plugs (not barbs or fittings, but plugs yes.)


Ah cool







thanks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> With FrozenCPU what shipping companys the best for international shipping?


I can't speak for Australia, but I've always used USPS Priority Mail International with no issues. Overall though it's not the quickest shipping method, usually the package is at a US airport within a week, and is on the plane 3 days later. But the price is very reasonable.

In comparison, the courier companies (DHL/UPS etc) can move the package much quicker, but they ask a lot more money for it: double or triple even. I've done that once, on a package from Hong Kong that I had paid for overnight service. Indeed it was in Amsterdam the next morning, but then it sat in customs for 6 days. The company in question, despite charging a high customs clearance fee, were not able to push the package through customs faster than USPS were able to.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> With FrozenCPU what shipping companys the best for international shipping?


FCPU ship via two carriers - either UPS or USPS.

UPS is quite expensive but you will have your order in just a couple of days. USPS is a bit cheaper and shipping takes a tad longer, although I placed an order just the other week with FCPU and it turned up in less than 7 days which was fairly quick.

Be prepared to spend at least $20 or $30 shipping for a smallish order and even more if your order becomes heavier...I paid almost $80 shipping for my last order but I had almost $800 worth of gear in the box.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Also do EK GPU blocks come with plugs for the holes or do you have to buy them to?


Nah - it will not come with any fittings for your tubing. It will be supplied with everything you need to mount the block to the CPU and MB however you need to supply fittings for your tubing.


----------



## kingchris

most of the orders i get from frozen, usally take just over a week. sometime i stuff from the US quicker then interstate!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I can't speak for Australia, but I've always used USPS Priority Mail International with no issues. Overall though it's not the quickest shipping method, usually the package is at a US airport within a week, and is on the plane 3 days later. But the price is very reasonable.
> 
> In comparison, the courier companies (DHL/UPS etc) can move the package much quicker, but they ask a lot more money for it: double or triple even. I've done that once, on a package from Hong Kong that I had paid for overnight service. Indeed it was in Amsterdam the next morning, but then it sat in customs for 6 days. The company in question, despite charging a high customs clearance fee, were not able to push the package through customs faster than USPS were able to.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> FCPU ship via two carriers - either UPS or USPS.
> 
> UPS is quite expensive but you will have your order in just a couple of days. USPS is a bit cheaper and shipping takes a tad longer, although I placed an order just the other week with FCPU and it turned up in less than 7 days which was fairly quick.
> 
> Be prepared to spend at least $20 or $30 shipping for a smallish order and even more if your order becomes heavier...I paid almost $80 shipping for my last order but I had almost $800 worth of gear in the box.
> Nah - it will not come with any fittings for your tubing. It will be supplied with everything you need to mount the block to the CPU and MB however you need to supply fittings for your tubing.


Ah ok, thanks guys, I ended up going USPS Priority Mail International, didnt wanna spend heaps on shipping seeing I'm getting over $300 worth of small stuff, still cost me $63 tho







, wonder how fast it'll get here... race between my FCPU and Caselabs stuff
















I ended up grabbing some plugs for the GPU block just in case, dont wanna get it then have to wait another week before I can use it and at least they'll match the rest of my black chorme, nickle stuff


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I'm gonna be redoing my loop soon and I'm trying to work out how in the hell to make tube connecting both rads neater
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking a 90° but it'll hit the fan wont it? unless I use a massive spacer to drop it past the fan
> 
> This tube is a pita


That's alot of rad for the cpu only. Is the gpu/s air cooled?

Edit: Never mind, read the rest of your posts. You'll probably need to wait for the gpu block to arrive before we can further advise you or draw something up on paint perhaps since you're adding to the loop.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's alot of rad for the cpu only. Is the gpu/s air cooled?


ITS NEVER ENOUGH RAD!!!!









I bought a 290 block so that'll be going under soonish and I'll probably OC everything as well

If you think thats a lot of rad... I still got another set of fans to go on both rads to...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michelle911*
> 
> can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> silly little h80 here... so many truly awesome things to see in this thread my mind is reeling... my build seemed like a big deal to me - until I saw this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


We all started somewhere . . . .

Everyone's build should always be a big deal to them if they did the best they could on it.
















There will always be builders with more money to spend, more building experience, more skills, more access to specialties, and more tools to work with . . . . .

None of that in any way diminishes our own accomplishments.

When I see things that that blow me away, I take it as encouragement to raise my own bar on a future build.

While this is a pretty guy dominant domain, there's plenty of room for gals too, and these guys are very encouraging.

Darlene


----------



## SinatraFan

Well said Darlene!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Michelle911*
> 
> can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> silly little h80 here... so many truly awesome things to see in this thread my mind is reeling... my build seemed like a big deal to me - until I saw this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *We all started somewhere . .* . .
> 
> Everyone's build should always be a big deal to them if they did the best they could on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will always be builders with more money to spend, more building experience, more skills, more access to specialties, and more tools to work with . . . . .
> 
> None of that in any way diminishes our own accomplishments.
> 
> When I see things that that blow me away, I take it as encouragement to raise my own bar on a future build.
> 
> While this is a pretty guy dominant domain, there's plenty of room for gals too, and these guys are very encouraging.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Exactly.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We all started somewhere . . . .
> Everyone's build should always be a big deal to them if they did the best they could on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will always be builders with more money to spend, more building experience, more skills, more access to specialties, and more tools to work with . . . . .
> None of that in any way diminishes our own accomplishments.
> When I see things that that blow me away, I take it as encouragement to raise my own bar on a future build.
> While this is a pretty guy dominant domain, there's plenty of room for gals too, and these guys are very encouraging.
> Darlene


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> We all started somewhere . . . .
> 
> Everyone's build should always be a big deal to them if they did the best they could on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will always be builders with more money to spend, more building experience, more skills, more access to specialties, and more tools to work with . . . . .
> 
> None of that in any way diminishes our own accomplishments.
> 
> When I see things that that blow me away, I take it as encouragement to raise my own bar on a future build.
> 
> While this is a pretty guy dominant domain, there's plenty of room for gals too, and these guys are very encouraging.
> 
> 
> Darlene


True story!


----------



## Pimphare

Well put Darlene.

This is a great community. There are some very inspirational builds here that drive me to do my best.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


If it wasn't for me being so minimalistic with my current build, I would have loved to use one of those gorgeous triple pump tops.


----------



## kidcapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I love the clean runs through the midplate, how hard was it to get the holes to accommodate the tube nice and snug and what did you use to drill them. Also, is that the full murder mod case or just parts, if it is which model.


Thank you for the kind words. Its a TJ11 case with parts from Markus of MartmaMod. I provided him with the measurements and he drilled the holes in the black sLight for me.


----------



## kidrem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We all started somewhere . . . .
> 
> Everyone's build should always be a big deal to them if they did the best they could on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will always be builders with more money to spend, more building experience, more skills, more access to specialties, and more tools to work with . . . . .
> 
> None of that in any way diminishes our own accomplishments.
> 
> When I see things that that blow me away, I take it as encouragement to raise my own bar on a future build.
> 
> While this is a pretty guy dominant domain, there's plenty of room for gals too, and these guys are very encouraging.
> 
> Darlene


Very well said. This could be a sticky... the mantra for the OCN Water Cooling Club and Picture Gallery.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We all started somewhere . . . .
> 
> Everyone's build should always be a big deal to them if they did the best they could on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will always be builders with more money to spend, more building experience, more skills, more access to specialties, and more tools to work with . . . . .
> 
> None of that in any way diminishes our own accomplishments.
> 
> When I see things that that blow me away, I take it as encouragement to raise my own bar on a future build.
> 
> While this is a pretty guy dominant domain, there's plenty of room for gals too, and these guys are very encouraging.
> 
> Darlene


sadly its the best looking rigs, and in most cases they are the more expensive rigs, that get the most attention and praise. dont get me wrong because they deserve the attention they get. just dont expect everyone to 'oh' and 'ah' over a simple loop or case mod. be proud of anything you accomplish no matter the complexity. some small mods and loops are quite an accomplishment. you and your view of what you have and have done is really all that matters.


----------



## kidcapp

I am really pleased with the quality of the PET sleeved cables I received from Ensourced.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> I am really pleased with the quality of the PET sleeved cables I received from Ensourced.


Those look really nice! I know you're one happy camper. I've been putting off resleeving my cables. It's got to be my least favorite thing to do.

I may consider these guys in the future. Top quality product here!


----------



## wermad

My humble and naive beginnings. Though the concept is no different then a typical wc setup, the build quality was less then desirable. I had yet to discover ocn and ocn's wc thread so I was just winging it. I got this kit for cheap but ultimately it was scrapped after numerous leaks. Sold it on ebay for a loss. Good learning experience.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My humble and naive beginnings. Though the concept is no different then a typical wc setup, the build quality was less then desirable. I had yet to discover ocn and ocn's wc thread so I was just winging it. I got this kit for cheap but ultimately it was scrapped after numerous leaks. Sold it on ebay for a loss. Good learning experience.


What's important is you found us in the end LOL


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My humble and naive beginnings. Though the concept is no different then a typical wc setup, the build quality was less then desirable. I had yet to discover ocn and ocn's wc thread so I was just winging it. I got this kit for cheap but ultimately it was scrapped after numerous leaks. Sold it on ebay for a loss. Good learning experience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This was nearly my first kit. Had it in the cart and ready to buy. Then I found this thread, ditched that idea and ended up going with a full custom loop, most of which is still being used today.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This was nearly my first kit. Had it in the cart and ready to buy. Then I found this thread, ditched that idea and ended up going with a full custom loop, most of which is still being used today.


That was my first kit about 8 years ago. I kept expanding it until I finally went all custom and never looked back. I wouldn't have even thought at the time that I would end up working for the company.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That was my first kit about 8 years ago. I kept expanding it until I finally went all custom and never looked back. I wouldn't have even thought at the time that I would end up working for the company.


Lucky dog!


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michelle911*
> 
> can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> silly little h80 here... so many truly awesome things to see in this thread my mind is reeling... my build seemed like a big deal to me - until I saw this thread


I started with a h80i too about 4-5 months ago, and since then I've aggressively changes my builds since then, sometimes, when I am changing my processor out to test a Delid of mine, or any type of hardware change, I always have a slight thought in my mind as im tearing down the acrylic tubing, "man I miss that h80i, I'd be done and playing a game or reading ocn by now" instead of trying to drain my loop and take it apart on one end of the build just to remove the cpu block XD

That thing was a boss. That and the h100i, only thing I don't miss too much was the savage noise that came from the stock fans haha

**that, and I really miss my soft finger tips I use to have, now from all the previous compression fittings I use to use, my fingers are rough as a rock lol


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/na0f2vj

I took my rig apart to add the 360 monsta external rad to the loop and clean the gpu block, for some reason now when i have my classy block on i get no display, it works fine with the air cooler.

Now i have a 360 monsta and 200mm phobya rad cooling a 4770k!.

I had the loop looking nice connecting to the monsta going through a pci pass through but it started leaking so i binned it and had to get fugly just to get up and running again, this is just temp for now.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/na0f2vj
> 
> I took my rig apart to add the 360 monsta external rad to the loop and clean the gpu block, for some reason now when i have my classy block on i get no display, it works fine with the air cooler.
> 
> Now i have a 360 monsta and 200mm phobya rad cooling a 4770k!.
> 
> I had the loop looking nice connecting to the monsta going through a pci pass through but it started leaking so i binned it and had to get fugly just to get up and running again, this is just temp for now.


Make sure you have all of the nylon washers in place, you may be causing a short.


----------



## khemist

I did think of that but they are all on for sure.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We all started somewhere . . . .
> 
> Everyone's build should always be a big deal to them if they did the best they could on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will always be builders with more money to spend, more building experience, more skills, more access to specialties, and more tools to work with . . . . .
> 
> None of that in any way diminishes our own accomplishments.
> 
> When I see things that that blow me away, I take it as encouragement to raise my own bar on a future build.
> 
> While this is a pretty guy dominant domain, there's plenty of room for gals too, and these guys are very encouraging.
> 
> Darlene


You forgot to mention more time


----------



## B NEGATIVE

http://www.overclock.net/t/1490200/the-400-budget-build-off-thread/0_20


----------



## Michelle911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We all started somewhere . . . .
> 
> Everyone's build should always be a big deal to them if they did the best they could on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will always be builders with more money to spend, more building experience, more skills, more access to specialties, and more tools to work with . . . . .
> 
> None of that in any way diminishes our own accomplishments.
> 
> When I see things that that blow me away, I take it as encouragement to raise my own bar on a future build.
> 
> While this is a pretty guy dominant domain, there's plenty of room for gals too, and these guys are very encouraging.
> 
> Darlene


well thanks for that







yeah, this _was_ a big deal for me! my first build and I actually did it with a plan from the ground up (even though it took me a while).

If not for OCN I would probly still have a


Spoiler: Redacted



Dell


or something horrible like that LOL


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michelle911*
> 
> well thanks for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, this _was_ a big deal for me! my first build and I actually did it with a plan from the ground up (even though it took me a while).
> 
> If not for OCN I would probly still have a
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Redacted
> 
> 
> 
> Dell
> 
> 
> or something horrible like that LOL


Is that 24 pin sleeved yet?


----------



## mikemykeMB

Here is some recent pics, please add moi'


----------



## Wolfsbora

It is getting down to the wire and I have only a few more parts to order for my loop. It appears that if I stick to my plan of adding a 240mm rad to the top of my Corsair 550D, I'll need to use slim fans and not my AP-15s. Are there any other options out there other than the Phobya 120mm x 15? In other words, I have about 50mm of clearance. That means a 30mm thick rad and at the very most, 20mm thick fans, and that would cut it close, possibly too close.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> It is getting down to the wire and I have only a few more parts to order for my loop. It appears that if I stick to my plan of adding a 240mm rad to the top of my Corsair 550D, I'll need to use slim fans and not my AP-15s. Are there any other options out there other than the Phobya 120mm x 15? In other words, I have about 50mm of clearance. That means a 30mm thick rad and at the very most, 20mm thick fans, and that would cut it close, possibly too close.


Don't use slim fans on a radiator. Better thinner rad and full size fans.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Don't use slim fans on a radiator. Better thinner rad and full size fans.


That would be my preference, unfortunately there isn't really a good option for a rad under 30mm thick. It is impossible to find a Black Ice Pro II (25mm thick) rad anywhere and I'm not familiar with anything else thinner than 30.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That would be my preference, unfortunately there isn't really a good option for a rad under 30mm thick. It is impossible to find a Black Ice Pro II (25mm thick) rad anywhere and I'm not familiar with anything else thinner than 30.


Granted it's an X-Flow rad, but PPCs still has 240mm BI Pro II X-Flow in stock


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That would be my preference, unfortunately there isn't really a good option for a rad under 30mm thick. It is impossible to find a Black Ice Pro II (25mm thick) rad anywhere and I'm not familiar with anything else thinner than 30.


Ah right. Sorry not familiar with the 550D. So you're putting a 240 in the front? Looking at your sig rig photos, you've had a 120 rad on the back. How come that 120 fits and the 240 in the top is limited?


----------



## morencyam

Another option could be to mount to fans externally to the top of the case and the radiator internally, or vise versa


----------



## Michelle911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Is that 24 pin sleeved yet?


yep my Corsair HX had one on it to start


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Granted it's an X-Flow rad, but PPCs still has 240mm BI Pro II X-Flow in stock


Grrr, the more I think about it the less I want an X-Flow rad...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ah right. Sorry not familiar with the 550D. So you're putting a 240 in the front? Looking at your sig rig photos, you've had a 120 rad on the back. How come that 120 fits and the 240 in the top is limited?


It'll be a 240mm Monsta in the front, I'm modifying the 5.25" bay cage to accommodate it. The back will be a 140mm ST30 (where my H80i currently resides). The 240 at the top will be limited due to the location of the 8 pin and 4 pin 12v plugs on the mobo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Another option could be to mount to fans externally to the top of the case and the radiator internally, or vise versa


Trying my best to avoid that, otherwise I might as well get an XT45 rad to go at the top.

The H100i has a rad that is 27 thick and fans that are 25 thick and it supposedly fits in a 550D regardless of the mobo installed. So, that gives me a total of 52mm to work with... Not sure if that helps.


----------



## dallas1990

After seeing a couple posts im afraid of my PC now. I have distilled water with a silver coil in the rest. I have copper rads and CPU block also I have a nickel and acytael GPU block. I probably should remove the silver coil?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Grrr, the more I think about it the less I want an X-Flow rad...
> It'll be a 240mm Monsta in the front, I'm modifying the 5.25" bay cage to accommodate it. The back will be a 140mm ST30 (where my H80i currently resides). The 240 at the top will be limited due to the location of the 8 pin and 4 pin 12v plugs on the mobo.
> 
> Trying my best to avoid that, otherwise I might as well get an XT45 rad to go at the top.
> 
> The H100i has a rad that is 27 thick and fans that are 25 thick and it supposedly fits in a 550D regardless of the mobo installed. So, that gives me a total of 52mm to work with... Not sure if that helps.


you could always go with a koolance shroud


----------



## snef

some final pics


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful. Love the colors.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics


Very impressive Snef. I really like the colors that you chose and you show them off. Everything looks very nicely balanced.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Beautiful. Love the colors.


Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Very impressive Snef. I really like the colors that you chose and you show them off. Everything looks very nicely balanced.


Thanks for the comment


----------



## Ragsters

Just finished replacing my Swiftech mcp35x pump top to the bitspower acrylic ddc top and something has got me worried. I'm currently leak testing and my pump is like 10 times quieter. Am I going crazy? is there some sort of restriction that is not letting the pump run at full speed? Has anyone made the comparison noise wise?


----------



## BradleyW

As some of you know, I am feeding my pump with a 90 degrees fitting as oppose to a larger rotary angle fitting 90 degree.

See below for reference:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Some OCN users have suggested this configuration will reduce flow and increase noise. So, using rotary fittings will normalise everything I've been told. My question, which design below will allow the best performance and quietest noise?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thank you very much!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just finished replacing my Swiftech mcp35x pump top to the bitspower acrylic ddc top and something has got me worried. I'm currently leak testing and my pump is like 10 times quieter. Am I going crazy? is there some sort of restriction that is not letting the pump run at full speed? Has anyone made the comparison noise wise?


DDC are really loud when purging air. Maybe the new top is much quieter than the Switchtech top. Easy way to tell would be to power up each pump by its self. Pump restriction would normally make it noisier .


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you could always go with a koolance shroud


If there is something along these lines that is a bit more sleek I would definitely try it out. I'm trying my best to keep the case as stock as possible on the exterior.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i dont know the difference but bundy told me the 35x2 was the best dual ddc top you can get. others have stated that 35x has the best top on the market and its silly to change from the stock expecting better performance. changing for looks is a different story of course as the 35x(2) top is not attractive at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> If there is something along these lines that is a bit more sleek I would definitely try it out. I'm trying my best to keep the case as stock as possible on the exterior.


not going to happen as a shroud is going to be large enough to fit fans under it. there are of course different fan configurations.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i dont know the difference but bundy told me the 35x2 was the best dual ddc top you can get. others have stated that 35x has the best top on the market and its silly to change from the stock expecting better performance. changing for looks is a different story of course as the 35x(2) top is not attractive at all.
> not going to happen as a shroud is going to be large enough to fit fans under it. there are of course different fan configurations.


Definitely changed the top cause of looks. If I knew the sound level of the new top was so much quieter, I would of changed a long time ago.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> not going to happen as a shroud is going to be large enough to fit fans under it. there are of course different fan configurations.


The size isn't a bad thing, I just want the look to be more in line with the rest of the case.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*OH MY BLOODY ANGEL!!!*


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Gorgeous!


----------



## LeoYunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OH MY GOODNESS... Not a big fan of red tho, but whatever, this is beautiful !


----------



## DizZz

Amazing work @snef


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is Fantabulously Spectacular !!! Absolutely lovely work, great attention to detail.









By the way I love RED, why do so many people rag on RED. You get some guy who has 8 different colors in his rig with zero scheme to it at all saying, "I am not a big fan of RED". Sorry if I seem a bit peeved, but it just baffles be to no end.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> That is Fantabulously Spectacular !!! Absolutely lovely work, great attention to detail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way I love RED, why do so many people rag on RED. You get some guy who has 8 different colors in his rig with zero scheme to it at all saying, "I am not a big fan of RED". Sorry if I seem a bit peeved, but it just baffles be to no end.


Red is great, when done properly. Red LEDs lighting up the entire case on the other hand... I'm of the opinion white should be the only color used for ambiance.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Red is great, when done properly. Red LEDs lighting up the entire case on the other hand... I'm of the opinion white should be the only color used for ambiance.


Absolutely agreed, but that goes for any color not just red. I am a big fan of white lights to light up the components and let the colors come out in the paint and the components themselves.

I did not mean to seem rude, it just kind of bothers me.


----------



## Blackspots

I figure a theme of red, black and white. White for paint on the inside of the case, and white LEDs. For the water cooling setup, either red tubes or red coolant, to go along with the red and black on the Asus ROG motherboard as well as the black couplings and water blocks. Basically the same idea as @snef but with a Corsair 540. No way I could afford one of those Case Labs cases.


----------



## Pheozero

Every time I see a RoG red, black, and white build, I die on the inside a little. I do respect anyone who puts effort into their builds but anytime I see one it's just like... sigh.


----------



## MrGrievous

So just a quick question from the watercooling community. I'm in the works of doing a build and plan on watercooling it using rigid acyrilic tubing. The question though is how comfortable would you be transporting the rig with that rigid tube around? ie from this house to my college dorm once the term starts. its a 2 hour drive if that helps any.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Every time I see a RoG red, black, and white build, I die on the inside a little. I do respect anyone who puts effort into their builds but anytime I see one it's just like... sigh.


What colors would you suggest with a motherboard that's black and red? The colors need to be complimentary and not clash.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> What colors would you suggest with a motherboard that's black and red? The colors need to be complimentary and not clash.


Then you gotta use what you've got to work with. I'm not saying I hate anything red and black, I've just seen it overused so much of it that most builds with it just doesn't really interest me anymore.


----------



## Anoxy

Well shoot. I was hoping that opting for Mayhem's X1 this time around would solve the yellowing issues, but it definitely did not.

A couple months later and my coolant is starting to brown. Perhaps that's what I get for not thoroughly flushing my rads/blocks?? I even used primochill sysprep and ran it through my system twice before filling with X1.

Luckily I still have a bottle left, so maybe I need to drain and re-fill again? I just don't even know...


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So just a quick question from the watercooling community. I'm in the works of doing a build and plan on watercooling it using rigid acyrilic tubing. The question though is how comfortable would you be transporting the rig with that rigid tube around? ie from this house to my college dorm once the term starts. its a 2 hour drive if that helps any.


U still have the box the case was in?..Using that would negate your worries about the tubes. If it is cracking them your worried about then add some foam or "spongey like" material to absorb any shock it may encounter.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Every time I see a RoG red, black, and white build, I die on the inside a little. I do respect anyone who puts effort into their builds but anytime I see one it's just like... sigh.


I feel ya, I am the same way about blue and green. There are only so many color schemes you can go with though. Mine is red and black because I have an ROG board,







, but it's my first build and I guarantee my second will be different, not because I don't like red but because I am not married to it and I like to change things up. Soon black and gold will be over done and it will get the same reaction. The only thing I know for sure is I will never build a rig for myself that is blue or green.









Edit: Unless it's cobalt blue!!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I feel ya, I am the same way about blue and green. There are only so many color schemes you can go with though. Mine is red and black because I have an ROG board,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it's my first build and I guarantee my second will be different, not because I don't like red but because I am not married to it and I like to change things up. Soon black and gold will be over done and it will get the same reaction. The only thing I know for sure is I will never build a rig for myself that is blue or green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Unless it's cobalt blue!!


You do realize that green builds are probably the least overdone out of any color that people do in their builds? I can agree with blue being overdone, but green (not UV green) is so darn rare these days that it is almost an endangered build species.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> You do realize that green builds are probably the least overdone out of any color that people do in their builds? I can agree with blue being overdone, but green (not UV green) is so darn rare these days that it is almost an endangered build species.


Really? I'm not sure about that. With NVidia cards having a green theme and all, I have seen many builds complimenting their graphics card.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> You do realize that green builds are probably the least overdone out of any color that people do in their builds? I can agree with blue being overdone, but green (not UV green) is so darn rare these days that it is almost an endangered build species.


Could be, if green is done right it can look good too but I the only mobo's right now that would fit that bill are all black and there is not enough of them around. And yes, it's the neon green I do not like.

I think these colors here would make for a killer build.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> What colors would you suggest with a motherboard that's black and red? The colors need to be complimentary and not clash.


When I was looking at building JägerWulfe, I was initially going with the Maximus VI Formula, and the colours I was looking at were MDPC Colour X, Shade 19, and black. Sure it's still technically red and black, but it is rather hard to come up with a colour scheme that still works with everything if your main colours are a certain way (kind of like the motherboard I went with, the Gigabyte Z87X-OC, where black and a burnt neon orange are practically guaranteed at some point)


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I feel ya, I am the same way about blue and green. There are only so many color schemes you can go with though. Mine is red and black because I have an ROG board,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it's my first build and I guarantee my second will be different, not because I don't like red but because I am not married to it and I like to change things up. Soon black and gold will be over done and it will get the same reaction. The only thing I know for sure is I will never build a rig for myself that is blue or green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Unless it's cobalt blue!!
> 
> 
> 
> You do realize that green builds are probably the least overdone out of any color that people do in their builds? I can agree with blue being overdone, but green (not UV green) is so darn rare these days that it is almost an endangered build species.
Click to expand...

Agreed not too many green builds around. Or orange or yellow for that matter.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Agreed not too many green builds around. Or orange or yellow for that matter.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'll have an orange build... Eventually. And JägerWulfe mk.II will probably have some yellow in it as well since that MSI Xpower AC is just so sexy. Just a matter of time, money, and trickling old(er)/replaced parts down to other rigs.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Agreed not too many green builds around. Or orange or yellow for that matter.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Green and Orange actually seem to be coming quite common, it's just yellow that is missing out on the love.


----------



## mikemykeMB

How's about Smoked-Cyan and Dark Metallic Grey. Seen? Me Neither, but look..


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Green and Orange actually seem to be coming quite common, it's just yellow that is missing out on the love.


I don't know I haven't really seen alot of purple builds/ fluids used either. .


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I don't know I haven't really seen alot of purple builds/ fluids used either. .


I'll be trying to rectify that in the future


----------



## DarthBaggins

as am I with the Lazarus Project I'm working on


----------



## skupples

I think you can call this an epic case mod...

http://i.imgur.com/nzFvrdR.jpg


----------



## Michelle911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think you can call this an epic case mod...
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/nzFvrdR.jpg


ROFL

Cuuuuuuuuuute!!!


----------



## Jakewat

Where the hell did you find that!?


----------



## wrayman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think you can call this an epic case mod...
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/nzFvrdR.jpg


omg hahaha, thats so wrong but yet, so right


----------



## gdubc

Nope....just plain wrong.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow....

Definitely falls into the extreme modding category lol

I bet that little critter overheats like crazy. Like putting a fur coat on your pc


----------



## ds84

Wanna ask something about aquacomputer.de. For the previous festive seasons like christmas, boxing day, mother's day, easter day, summer sale, etc, did they have any discount coupons? If so, what periods did they have? Thanks.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think you can call this an epic case mod...
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/nzFvrdR.jpg


Anyone else find it amusing she picked a beaver . . . .









Wonder if she out a webcam in an eye socket.

Wonder if I could build a stretch limo version in a human cadaver . . . .

Darlene


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wonder if I could build a stretch limo version in a human cadaver . . . .
> 
> Darlene


Must be done!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Anyone else find it amusing she picked a beaver . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder if she out a webcam in an eye socket.
> 
> Wonder if I could build a stretch limo version in a human cadaver . . . .
> 
> Darlene


LOL ... I was thinking the same but wasn't gonna go there. There is beaver jokes galore in that.

That's one way to finally get a computer geek interested in beaver ! ... Ba - Boom tish


----------



## VSG

You volunteering, James?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You volunteering, James?


Let it be known that on this 18th day of May, 2014 I hereby offer my willing to donate my cadaver for @IT Diva's Stretched Cadaver build, upon my future death.

My only request is that I insist on the 140mm exhaust be positioned in my rear end.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You volunteering, James?
> 
> 
> 
> Let it be known that on this 18th day of May, 2014 I hereby offer my willing to donate my cadaver for @IT Diva's Stretched Cadaver build, upon my future death.
> 
> My only request is that I insist on the 140mm exhaust be positioned in my rear end.
Click to expand...

okay, but I heard about you.....better make it a Delta.


----------



## khemist

I was trying to clean my 780 classy block but only had the correct bit for one side of the block (the plexi side) what size bit do i need for the nickel side?.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think you can call this an epic case mod...
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/nzFvrdR.jpg


Oh my goodness! That's quite disturbing. Lol @kpoeticg

@Jameswalt1
Or how about a usb port or better yet the psu power plug.


----------



## BradleyW

As some of you know, I am feeding my pump with a 90 degrees fitting as oppose to a larger rotary angle fitting 90 degree.

See below for reference:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Some OCN users have suggested this configuration will reduce flow and increase noise. So, using rotary fittings will normalise everything I've been told. My question, which design below will allow the best performance and quietest noise?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thank you very much!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The second one would be my choice,if you leave around 4-5 times the width of the feed tube ID before any bends then that will be perfect. ie 10mm ID=40-50mm of inlet tube.


----------



## stebbiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think you can call this an epic case mod...
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/nzFvrdR.jpg


"That's wrong. That's just wrong. That's just not how any of this works!"


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The second one would be my choice,if you leave around 4-5 times the width of the feed tube ID before any bends then that will be perfect. ie 10mm ID=40-50mm of inlet tube.


Would that be the option on the right?
Thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The second one would be my choice,if you leave around 4-5 times the width of the feed tube ID before any bends then that will be perfect. ie 10mm ID=40-50mm of inlet tube.
> 
> 
> 
> Would that be the option on the right?
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yes


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes


Thanks!
Is there anything wrong with suggestion one?
Just thought I'd ask while I'm here.

My thoughts was that I could increase the distance between the Res and the Pump, in terms of tubing and rotary fittings in order to help dampen vibrations transferred to the Res, and to ensure enough liquid is fed to the pump.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> Is there anything wrong with suggestion one?
> Just thought I'd ask while I'm here.
> 
> My thoughts was that I could increase the distance between the Res and the Pump, in terms of tubing and rotary fittings in order to help dampen vibrations transferred to the Res, and to ensure enough liquid is fed to the pump.
Click to expand...

Shorter tube runs=more performance


----------



## Kimir

It's ok, everyone forgot about the magnificent build by Snef now, I can post mine with the same case?









I wanted to use the lower hole from the res at first but didn't wanted to put a 90° on the pump input, this way should be ok, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Work in progress...
> 
> Done flushing the radiators and sleeving the D5 last night, did the plumbing today.
> Also started to wire the Aquaero 6 with fan splitters and temp sensors. I will receive the PSU tomorrow, will have to wire all of this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In before "why all the Koolance quick connect?" I want to be able to disassemble any part of the rig easily. The most important part if being able to remove the graphic cards from the mobo and the mobo tray from the case. Everything else is a plus and since I have those QDC in stock now, might as well use them.
> The circuit is as follow (I know it does not matter as the temp will equalize in the system but whatever):
> Res → pump → front 240mm → lower 480mm → lower 360mm → flow meter → graphic cards → MB → Top 480mm → CPU → res.
> 
> Comment/input welcome before I fill this up.


----------



## BradleyW

Deleted.


----------



## Pimphare

Hey fellas, is there any promotions going on for Performance PCS? If not, is the normal discount code OCN55?


----------



## gdubc

I don't know if there are any specials right now but that is the ocn code.

The difference between the ocn code and their specials is so small that I never really worry about waiting on a special. If I was going to place an order over $1k make different story.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I don't know if there are any specials right now but that is the ocn code.
> 
> The difference between the ocn code and their specials is so small that I never really worry about waiting on a special. If I was going to place an order over $1k make different story.


Thanks!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Shorter tube runs=more performance


Makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.
Sorry but could you clarify this bit here?
" leave around 4-5 times the width of the feed tube ID before any bends"
Does that mean I should have 40mm of tubing before arriving to the rotary bend?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.
> Sorry but could you clarify this bit here?
> " leave around 4-5 times the width of the feed tube ID before any bends"
> Does that mean I should have 40mm of tubing before arriving to the rotary bend?


Yep, that was what I got. I think he meant leave 40-50 mm straight tube coming from the top inlet up to the rotary bend.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, that was what I got. I think he meant leave 40-50 mm straight tube coming from the top inlet up to the rotary bend.


I think that will be an issue for me. I might only be able to get 30mm at best. (Unless I make some slight modifications, but it won't look as neat).


----------



## jpetrach

My biggest issue with all my different configurations was i could never achieve the small form factor and what I wanted all together. however I have found a way to free up some much needed space. I decided to ditch the sleeved cables and made my own. it was kinda of a hasel finding the different pieces. so I'm posting final pics (not to get to







)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FESUF30/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
is for the connectors and take your pick of wire i chose to go with 16 ga. I know that bigger but it looked better IMO.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HAB82M/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1





I feel like i'm finally done..........

ps i made a fan controller see if you can spot it.


----------



## Audiophile1178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hey fellas, is there any promotions going on for Performance PCS? If not, is the normal discount code OCN55?


I don't mean to thread jack but how does one find out about this code? I couldn't find a specific area for it and am wondering if I'm missing out on other codes as well...

Thank you for any help!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178*
> 
> I don't mean to thread jack but how does one find out about this code? I couldn't find a specific area for it and am wondering if I'm missing out on other codes as well...
> 
> Thank you for any help!


Just go through the steps for your order and after the shipping page is the page for discount codes and gift certificates. Put ocn55 in the discount code box and make sure to hit redeem. Gets you 5.5% discount.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178*
> 
> I don't mean to thread jack but how does one find out about this code? I couldn't find a specific area for it and am wondering if I'm missing out on other codes as well...
> 
> Thank you for any help!


*OCN55* is a perpetual 5.5% discount code for Performance-PCs

Similarly, *OCN* is a perpetual 5.1% discount code for FrozenCPU

and *facebook* is a perpetual 5% off code for Jab-tech.

None can be combined with any other discount offers.

If PPCs has any better promotions going on at the time (usually they will around a holiday) it will say so on their homepage &/or you can subscribe to their newsletter that will let you know.

FCPU doesn't have a newsletter but they do have a one-time 10% off code you will receive the details for following your first order's email confirmation that you can get by reviewing their site.

Also, Jab-tech is currently in the process of moving and has a half-off sale going on (on what little stock they have left) so their discount code won't work currently.


----------



## Audiophile1178

Unicr0nhunter, thank you for the info. I was just curious on how people are supposed to know this information as I couldn't find a specific topic on it.

BTW, I wish that there was a code like this for sidewinder.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I think that will be an issue for me. I might only be able to get 30mm at best. (Unless I make some slight modifications, but it won't look as neat).


Perhaps you can raise the reservoir a little bit and use the top port of your gpu block to run straight to the reservoir? So, essentially the same set up on the gpu block but instead of using the bottom port using the one right on top of the one you are using. That would give you a little more room from the reservoir to the pump. Another potential path would be to use the side reservoir outlet to feed the pump instead of the one at the bottom.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Perhaps you can raise the reservoir a little bit and use the top port of your gpu block to run straight to the reservoir? So, essentially the same set up on the gpu block but instead of using the bottom port using the one right on top of the one you are using. That would give you a little more room from the reservoir to the pump. Another potential path would be to use the side reservoir outlet to feed the pump instead of the one at the bottom.


I was thinking the second choice as choice one could conflict with my sound blaster z card.
Thank you.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178*
> 
> Unicr0nhunter, thank you for the info. I was just curious on how people are supposed to know this information as I couldn't find a specific topic on it.
> 
> BTW, I wish that there was a code like this for sidewinder.


FWIW, There have been quite a few discount code threads. That's where I first learned about any of them.
http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?opensearch=true&search=discount+codes

And I agree about Sidewinder. Dazmode would be another good one imho. They both need to get with the program!


----------



## ledzepp3

Hey everybody!

I began filling my rig just about an hour ago, and the pump won't start. It is a Swiftech MCP-655 Vario with a full Bitspower dress kit on it (mod kit, top, and res). It's been hooked up to several different perfectly functioning power supplies, but no dice yet.

Thoughts on this? I'd really hate to have to replace this pump since there's already some liquid in the loop









-Zepp


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hey everybody!
> 
> I began filling my rig just about an hour ago, and the pump won't start. It is a Swiftech MCP-655 Vario with a full Bitspower dress kit on it (mod kit, top, and res). It's been hooked up to several different perfectly functioning power supplies, but no dice yet.
> 
> Thoughts on this? I'd really hate to have to replace this pump since there's already some liquid in the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


The only thing that occur to me is just check the connections. Is the molex fully inserted? IS the PSU modular? The molex lane is fully inserted in the PSU? Also are you jump start the PSU or turning on the whole system?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hey everybody!
> 
> I began filling my rig just about an hour ago, and the pump won't start. It is a Swiftech MCP-655 Vario with a full Bitspower dress kit on it (mod kit, top, and res). It's been hooked up to several different perfectly functioning power supplies, but no dice yet.
> 
> Thoughts on this? I'd really hate to have to replace this pump since there's already some liquid in the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


If the problem isn't in the connector then it may have had a wire pulled loose from the pcb in the pump, I assume most likely when the D5 mod kit was installed on it. If it's not the connector then it's probably going to have to be removed from the loop no matter what you do.

If it's new and you bought it assembled with the kit installed you should probably contact whoever you bought it from immediately and have them advise you on what to do. If you installed the pump in the top yourself then you will have unfortunately voided Swiftech's warranty on it (afaik they are the only Laing pump reseller that has such a strict policy like that), so you might want to keep that in mind if/when corresponding with their support.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The only thing that occur to me is just check the connections. Is the molex fully inserted? IS the PSU modular? The molex lane is fully inserted in the PSU? Also are you jump start the PSU or turning on the whole system?


One of the power supplies are modular, and it what tested with multiple cables in different ports. Molex is fully inserted, and the PSU have both been turned on and jumped. Nothing's worked so far








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If the problem isn't in the connector then it may have had a wire pulled loose from the pcb in the pump, I assume most likely when the D5 mod kit was installed on it. If it's not the connector then it's probably going to have to be removed from the loop no matter what you do.
> 
> If it's new and you bought it assembled with the kit installed you should probably contact whoever you bought it from immediately and have them advise you on what to do. If you installed the pump in the top yourself then you will have unfortunately voided Swiftech's warranty on it (afaik they are the only Laing pump reseller that has such a strict policy like that), so you might want to keep that in mind if/when corresponding with their support.


I'm assuming the wire pulled lose if it's nothing else I've tried and found other people having issues with. I'll rip it out tomorrow and take a look to see, and possibly solder it back in. Otherwise it's new pump time which ain't cheap in the slightest :/

Thank you guys, +Rep!

-Zepp


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> One of the power supplies are modular, and it what tested with multiple cables in different ports. Molex is fully inserted, and the PSU have both been turned on and jumped. Nothing's worked so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the wire pulled lose if it's nothing else I've tried and found other people having issues with. I'll rip it out tomorrow and take a look to see, and possibly solder it back in. Otherwise it's new pump time which ain't cheap in the slightest :/
> 
> Thank you guys, +Rep!
> 
> -Zepp


Alphacool VPP655 D5 Variable pump on sale at PPCS for $75, add OCN55 to get another 5.5% off http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30154


----------



## Jakusonfire

Why would the pump be open just to install a pump mod kit? Are the power wires back in their correct places on the molex connector? Molex are notorious for playing up after being depinned but if you're sure the pins are fully inserted then there aren't a lot of other suspects.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Why would the pump be open just to install a pump mod kit? Are the power wires back in their correct places on the molex connector? Molex are notorious for playing up after being depinned but if you're sure the pins are fully inserted then there aren't a lot of other suspects.


^^this. It is common to have both molex terminals fully inserted (male and female) only to find out that one (or more) of the 4 male pins are pushed back a little making no contact with the other plug. I am sure if you tested the pump before putting in the system it should be working. Is either the molex pin not making contact or like others said the wire snap off the pcb in the pump at some point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> One of the power supplies are modular, and it what tested with multiple cables in different ports. Molex is fully inserted, and the PSU have both been turned on and jumped. Nothing's worked so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the wire pulled lose if it's nothing else I've tried and found other people having issues with. I'll rip it out tomorrow and take a look to see, and possibly solder it back in. Otherwise it's new pump time which ain't cheap in the slightest :/
> 
> Thank you guys, +Rep!
> 
> -Zepp


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> *OCN55* is a perpetual 5.5% discount code for Performance-PCs
> 
> Similarly, *OCN* is a perpetual 5.1% discount code for FrozenCPU
> 
> and *facebook* is a perpetual 5% off code for Jab-tech.
> 
> None can be combined with any other discount offers.
> 
> If PPCs has any better promotions going on at the time (usually they will around a holiday) it will say so on their homepage &/or you can subscribe to their newsletter that will let you know.
> 
> FCPU doesn't have a newsletter but they do have a one-time 10% off code you will receive the details for following your first order's email confirmation that you can get by reviewing their site.
> 
> Also, Jab-tech is currently in the process of moving and has a half-off sale going on (on what little stock they have left) so their discount code won't work currently.


Man it would have been nice to know this before I dropped more than $500 at Frozen CPU and Performance PCS.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Why would the pump be open just to install a pump mod kit? Are the power wires back in their correct places on the molex connector? Molex are notorious for playing up after being depinned but if you're sure the pins are fully inserted then there aren't a lot of other suspects.


You don't have to open the pump, but you do have to remove the connector and then pull the wires through the hole on back plate of the pump mod and as you tighten it all back together it is pretty easy to not keep that back plate lined up and twist/pull on the wires. You have to keep that hole in the plate with the wires threaded through it lined up right with where they come out of the pump and if you're not careful and let it twist as you tighten the pump into the top you could pretty easily rip one or all of the wires loose from the pump. I've dressed up a couple D5s now with the Bitspower mod kit and I could see how that could happen.



Or, like you and I also suggested, it could also be a problem with the connector. Hopefully that's all it is.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The wires are normally clipped to the inner side of the back cover and bunched up. It takes a bit of force to move them through the cover to sleeve them. Pulling one off the PCB without opening it up would take a lot of force.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The wires are normally clipped to the inner side of the back cover and bunched up. It takes a bit of force to move them through the cover to sleeve them. Pulling one off the PCB without opening it up would take a lot of force.


Yeah I've never popped open a D5 yet. I've thought about it, but instead I've just sleeved up to the pump and heatshrinked it in place there. That said, I don't know how FCPU or PPCs would do it, and they both sell a sleeved MCP655 Pump with the Bittspower top & Mod Kit installed. That's why I suggested that if ledzepp3 bought it preassembled like that then he should contact whoever he got it from right away, because the only warranty you are getting with a Swiftech pump once it's been installed in a pump top is through the retailer because Swiftech aint going to touch it, and a lot of retailers are only going to offer an RMA or whatnot for a short period of time. There's more than one post around here from people who had troubles with their Swiftech pump after they bought it along with or preinstalled in a pump top and as soon as Swiftech sees the invoice/receipt that includes the pump top that was bought along with the pump that's the end of their warranty support for you.


----------



## Blackspots

Oh, here we go. Decided to go with EK as much as possible, including switching to a PNY reference card for the computer I am slowly building. (This one). Not sure if I want to go with rigid tubing or not, and will probably want to use these 90 degree adapters if I do use rigid tubing. Also, not completely sure on what brand fluid to use.

Working cart/wish list.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Oh, here we go. Decided to go with EK as much as possible, including switching to a PNY reference card for the computer I am slowly building. (This one). Not sure if I want to go with rigid tubing or not, and will probably want to use these 90 degree adapters if I do use rigid tubing. Also, not completely sure on what brand fluid to use.
> 
> Working cart/wish list.


Don't forget the code "OCN"


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Don't forget the code "OCN"


Once I get around to buying the custom water cooling system. Build computer this year, use Enermax Liqtech 240 for just the CPU, and then buy the parts for the water cooling system in 2015 (or after I finish building the computer by September)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> One of the power supplies are modular, and it what tested with multiple cables in different ports. Molex is fully inserted, and the PSU have both been turned on and jumped. Nothing's worked so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the wire pulled lose if it's nothing else I've tried and found other people having issues with. I'll rip it out tomorrow and take a look to see, and possibly solder it back in. Otherwise it's new pump time which ain't cheap in the slightest :/
> 
> Thank you guys, +Rep!
> 
> -Zepp


Please PM me about this if you can't figure out why the pump isn't working and I'll see what I can do for you.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The wires are normally clipped to the inner side of the back cover and bunched up. It takes a bit of force to move them through the cover to sleeve them. Pulling one off the PCB without opening it up would take a lot of force.


^^^^^ This . . .

Additionally, they always have a couple inches of wire under the cap loom before the PCB.

I'd inspect closely to see that you have not sheared a wire(s) where they exit the plastic cap to go thru the hole in the dress kit cap.

As you tighten the dress kit body, it rotates the metal cap and tends to guillotine the wires if you don't take appropriate precautions.

If you have a multimeter, you could check resistance at the molex pins to see if the wire's cut.

Darlene


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Don't forget the code "OCN"


Well if someone would have said this 3 Months ago.... How long has this code been around?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Man it would have been nice to know this before I dropped more than $500 at Frozen CPU and Performance PCS.


There is a subforum of the site called "Online Deals" where this kind of thing is listed. It's not the idea for this club thread to keep you informed of all deals








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Well if someone would have said this 3 Months ago.... How long has this code been around?


FCPU is from 2012 http://www.overclock.net/t/1251825/frozencpu-coupon-code-for-5-1-off-now-active-code-is-ocn
PPCs one is older, but they are active in the online deals section for special holiday deals.


----------



## Kimir

In the other hand, a quick Google search with "shop name" discount code and those code will show up.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There is a subforum of the site called "Online Deals" where this kind of thing is listed. It's not the idea for this club thread to keep you informed of all deals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FCPU is from 2012 http://www.overclock.net/t/1251825/frozencpu-coupon-code-for-5-1-off-now-active-code-is-ocn
> PPCs one is older, but they are active in the online deals section for special holiday deals.


Well Dang! I wish i would have known that. I would have saved over $70USD on stuff so far, lol. Hmm... I will remember this from now on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> In the other hand, a quick Google search with "shop name" discount code and those code will show up.


True, but it seems that when I google stuff, I find the wrong info.. When I ask OVER AND OVER, I get the answer IMMEDIATELY after I do something else.. Like buying Tubing this last round... I asked 5 times over two week what the best clear tubing was... over 2 weeks I got no reply.. I posted what I bought and 2 minutes later, I get "that is the worst tube to buy, even though it has good reviews" So... yeah.. I will make sure to spam that out for the ones that know but don't publicize it often from here on out.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> In the other hand, a quick Google search with "shop name" discount code and those code will show up.


Google hmmmm...... you don't always find what you're looking for, but you'll get something. Anyways, it's nice to get some reassurance from the community on current events.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There is a subforum of the site called "Online Deals" where this kind of thing is listed. It's not the idea for this club thread to keep you informed of all deals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FCPU is from 2012 http://www.overclock.net/t/1251825/frozencpu-coupon-code-for-5-1-off-now-active-code-is-ocn
> PPCs one is older, but they are active in the online deals section for special holiday deals.
> 
> 
> 
> Well Dang! I wish i would have known that. I would have saved over $70USD on stuff so far, lol. Hmm... I will remember this from now on.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> In the other hand, a quick Google search with "shop name" discount code and those code will show up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> True, but it seems that when I google stuff, I find the wrong info.. When I ask OVER AND OVER, I get the answer IMMEDIATELY after I do something else.. Like buying Tubing this last round... I asked 5 times over two week what the best clear tubing was... over 2 weeks I got no reply.. I posted what I bought and 2 minutes later, I get "that is the worst tube to buy, even though it has good reviews" So... yeah.. I will make sure to spam that out for the ones that know but don't publicize it often from here on out.
Click to expand...

If you have specific problems then start a thread,this thread is pics and theory....not a helpline.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I posted in here *twice in the last week* and didn't get responses. I will see if I can change the order.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I asked *5 times over two week* what the best clear tubing was... over 2 weeks I got no reply..


Hmm... here's the only relevant post of yours I can find with the words "clear tubing". Not trying to be mean, just think your memory of it became a little embellished








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I have the EK Zmt Matte Black, and have been using it for 2 months with no apparent issues yet. If you find issues with yours, please let me know. I would rather spend $30usd and not worry than have to tear everything apart and clean it.
> 
> I am also considering going up to the largest tubing size. And just trade out to the proper compression fittings. I am going to stick with EK compressions, but what is the best or highest suggested tubing that won't cause issues later. I am going to use clear this round.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you have specific problems then start a thread,this thread is pics and theory....not a helpline.


Wow.. will remember that in the future. No help or referencing bad experiences, got it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Wow.. will remember that in the future. No help or referencing bad experiences, got it.


Tygon or acrylic.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you have specific problems then start a thread,this thread is pics and theory....not a helpline.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow.. will remember that in the future. No help or referencing bad experiences, got it.
Click to expand...

No need to get moody about it,I tell everyone the same thing..

Also,there are MANY threads covering what you are looking for,use the search button.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Hmm... here's the only relevant post of yours I can find with the words "clear tubing". Not trying to be mean, just think your memory of it became a little embellished


LOL, ok, my apologies, it wasn't in here. I just found an email where I had asked the first time, from FrozenCPU, which means I had not asked in here. So in truth, it was embellished from frustrations. I guess I owe an apology, so I apologize for that.

Something a little more on topic, a a 750Ti by itself looks pathetic:



Not quite on topic:


----------



## ledzepp3

@BramSLI1 PM Sent


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Question, can the res tube from the Bitspower Single DDC Top Upgrade Kit 80 be swapped out into the Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150?

Was gonna order the Bitspower D5 Black Ice Top Upgrade Kit 80 but there outta stock so just wanna know if I can get the DDC one instead and just swap the tubes out

Thanks


----------



## pc-illiterate

here is a somewhat on topic post of frustration.

turned my pc on last night. smelled a bit of ozone. 2500k was hitting 70* and coretemp freaking out. turns out i forgot to set that channel of the fan controller to full blast before i turned it on. 2 ddc-1t pumps half fried that fan channel. it now runs at 7v full time.
moral of the story: if youre water cooling on a budget, dont be a derp!
does anyone know if the AQ5 LT controls a ddc like the PA2 does? if it does, does it have 2 channels that 12v burst a stopped fan? i would need 2 PA2 unless i get an old miniNG and it actually does both fan channnels this way.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Question, can the res tube from the Bitspower Single DDC Top Upgrade Kit 80 be swapped out into the Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150?
> 
> Was gonna order the Bitspower D5 Black Ice Top Upgrade Kit 80 but there outta stock so just wanna know if I can get the DDC one instead and just swap the tubes out
> 
> Thanks


I don't have either but it seems both are 60 mm in diameter so I would say yes. If I can get a hide on your question I notice that bitspower, ek and koolance all use 60 mm tubes. Does anyone known if an ek tube for example can be used in a koolance ek d5 top? I would say yes but who knows if the thread is somewhat different and potentially cause problems....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Question, can the res tube from the Bitspower Single DDC Top Upgrade Kit 80 be swapped out into the Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150?
> 
> Was gonna order the Bitspower D5 Black Ice Top Upgrade Kit 80 but there outta stock so just wanna know if I can get the DDC one instead and just swap the tubes out
> 
> Thanks


.
Yes, the reservoir tubes between the Bitspower kits are interchangeable, but the pump top adapter plates are not. But you will be able to swap those two tubes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I don't have either but it seems both are 60 mm in diameter so I would say yes. If I can get a hide on your question I notice that bitspower, ek and koolance all use 60 mm tubes. Does anyone known if an ek tube for example can be used in a koolance ek d5 top? I would say yeas but who knows if the thread is somewhat different and potentially cause problems....


And unfortunately no, the tubes do have the same diameters for some models, but EK tubes have external threads, the BP have internal threads, and I have had so many problems with the Koolance stuff I don't remember what they had.

Edit: fixed a typo.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There is a subforum of the site called "Online Deals" where this kind of thing is listed. It's not the idea for this club thread to keep you informed of all deals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FCPU is from 2012 http://www.overclock.net/t/1251825/frozencpu-coupon-code-for-5-1-off-now-active-code-is-ocn
> PPCs one is older, but they are active in the online deals section for special holiday deals.


I understand that now, it still would have been nice if I knew that. I am not blaming anyone but myself.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I understand that now, it still would have been nice if I knew that. I am not blaming anyone but myself.


If you sign up for PPC's mailing list, you'll get an email with discount codes every time there is a special holiday sale


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> .
> Yes, the reservoir tubes between the Bitspower kits are interchangeable, but the pump top adapter plates are not. But you will be able to swap those two tubes.
> And unfortunately no, the tubes do have the same diameters for some models, but EK tubes have external threads, the BP have internal threads, and I have had do many problems with the Koolance stuff I don't remember what they had.


Thks Jim.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> .
> Yes, the reservoir tubes between the Bitspower kits are interchangeable, but the pump top adapter plates are not. But you will be able to swap those two tubes.


Thanks







, didn't wanna wait almost a month for the D5 version to get back in stock


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I am looking for a pump for an EK-DDC X Res Rev 2…is there any real advantage to a 35X over a regular 355 besides the PWM functionality?


----------



## VSG

Arguably the best performing DDC top, and one that looks pretty good in my opinion.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I am looking for a pump for an EK-DDC X Res Rev 2&#8230;is there any real advantage to a 35X over a regular 355 besides the PWM functionality?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Arguably the best performing DDC top, and one that looks pretty good in my opinion.


the top wont matter as he will be using a top/res combo.

the pwm can run at a lower rpm.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah just trying to make sure there wasn't some other difference/detail I may want to consider possibly with relation to that specific res. Only a $10 price diff between the two at Sidewinder...


----------



## lowfat

Buy the PWM one, having PWM is worth the extra cost.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Noted. Install procedure to top would essentially be the same with either pump I figure? No experience with DDCs as yet…


----------



## bundymania

New eastar rads. Releasedate:June














































http://www.coolgate.net/radiators_360G2.htm

http://www.magicool.biz/product_radiator.htm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Interesting core design,fins that stick out that much....

Soldering looks bloody terribad on that coolgate/Magicool....(Why do they insist on separating them when they roll out of the same manufacture line?)....I would rock them tho,good looking rads them is.


----------



## pc-illiterate

im definitely liking that slim rad. very happy i may be getting a new 240.


----------



## mus1mus

Hi guys,

Something is bugging me about my loop. I have bought a used loop for pretty cheap with an RS240, Supreme HF, XSPC 750 dual bay RES/pump combo. (For the same price of a new Supreme HF)

I have tested this on my OC and worked pretty well cooling my chip. Then I added an EX360 into the loop and found out, my temps never improved! Was even worse.

Like I said, with a single 240, cooling my OC is a breeze. What could have caused the issue?

Weak pump?
Bad mount?
Not fully cleaned rad?

I have also switched from a cheap Deepcool Z5 to a Gelid GC Extreme for the TIM. Z5 with just the 240, GC Extreme when I added the EX360.

I know I'm looking at too many things but any thought would be appreciated (is this the right thread to ask?)

Also noticed my CPU showing high temps even with my rads are practically cold. Whereas with just a 240, my temps were stable at 65 even with the rad at 44 degrees. ARGGh!

Thanks guys

Also, any thoughts on the Blackice GTX 360? They're cheaper than my EX from where I am. It's also thicker with high FPI so can fans like Cougar Vortexes be enough to move air through the rad in Push pull?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Something is bugging me about my loop. I have bought a used loop for pretty cheap with an RS240, Supreme HF, XSPC 750 dual bay RES/pump combo. (For the same price of a new Supreme HF)
> 
> I have tested this on my OC and worked pretty well cooling my chip. Then I added an EX360 into the loop and found out, my temps never improved! Was even worse.
> 
> Like I said, with a single 240, cooling my OC is a breeze. What could have caused the issue?
> 
> Weak pump?
> Bad mount?
> Not fully cleaned rad?
> 
> I have also switch from a cheap Deepcool Z5 to a Gelid GC Extreme for the TIM. Z5 with just the 240, GC Extreme when I added the EX360.
> 
> I know I'm looking at too many things but any thought would be appreciated (is this the right thread to ask?)
> 
> Also noticed my CPU showing high temps even with my rads are practically cold. Whereas with just a 240, my temps were stable at 65 even with the rad at 44 degrees. ARGGh!
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> Also, any thoughts on the Blackice GTX 360? They're cheaper than my EX from where I am. It's also thicker with high FPI so can fans like Cougar Vortexes be enough to move air through the rad in Push pull?


Most likely it's air in one or both of your radiators, or possibly your water block as well. Those XSPC 750s aren't very good pumps. I had one for a little while and I wasn't impressed with it at all. I don't know how you have your loop configured, but the pump might not be up to the task of being able to purge all of the air out of your loop very easily. You may have to do a lot of tilting and shaking to get all of the air out and get closer to the performance that you were expecting.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Something is bugging me about my loop. I have bought a used loop for pretty cheap with an RS240, Supreme HF, XSPC 750 dual bay RES/pump combo. (For the same price of a new Supreme HF)
> 
> I have tested this on my OC and worked pretty well cooling my chip. Then I added an EX360 into the loop and found out, my temps never improved! Was even worse.
> 
> Like I said, with a single 240, cooling my OC is a breeze. What could have caused the issue?
> 
> Weak pump?
> Bad mount?
> Not fully cleaned rad?
> 
> I have also switched from a cheap Deepcool Z5 to a Gelid GC Extreme for the TIM. Z5 with just the 240, GC Extreme when I added the EX360.
> 
> I know I'm looking at too many things but any thought would be appreciated (is this the right thread to ask?)
> 
> Also noticed my CPU showing high temps even with my rads are practically cold. Whereas with just a 240, my temps were stable at 65 even with the rad at 44 degrees. ARGGh!
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> Also, any thoughts on the Blackice GTX 360? They're cheaper than my EX from where I am. It's also thicker with high FPI so can fans like Cougar Vortexes be enough to move air through the rad in Push pull?


High CPU temps with cool rads is a sign of a poor mount.

Reseat your block carefully with fresh TIM.

**edit** Like stated, air pockets can also cause it.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Most likely it's air in one or both of your radiators, or possibly your water block as well. Those XSPC 750s aren't very good pumps. I had one for a little while and I wasn't impressed with it at all. I don't know how you have your loop configured, but the pump might not be up to the task of being able to purge all of the air out of your loop very easily. You may have to do a lot of tilting and shaking to get all of the air out and get closer to the performance that you were expecting.


I have found using a bicycle pump to air those bubbles and hiding pockets of out any bends-90's-dumb crevices...spelling sux...Just watch how much u introduce into the loop output hole(s)..
Does anyone tilt-shake their car when adding coolant????..PSI test is what gets rid of these..spilling also is messy...


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> I have found using a bicycle pump to air those bubbles and hiding pockets of out any bends-90's-dumb crevices...spelling sux...Just watch how much u introduce into the loop output hole(s)..
> Does anyone tilt-shake their car when adding coolant????..PSI test is what gets rid of these..spilling also is messy...


no because roads provide enough shaking and banging


----------



## DarthBaggins

I let mine run as I crack open a cap on the res (highest point in my loop) and carefully tilt the rig or add more with the cap/bleeder open


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no because roads provide enough shaking and banging


True..but your idea is obtuse because...1) shaking tilting and getting physical with your rig is way too emotional.
2) that is just a way to loosen something inside u think is "A-Ok" 3) N..never never shake a baby. LOL


----------



## Silverthorne

My second ever build; the first was much more vanilla i7-950.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverthorne*
> 
> My second ever build; the first was much more vanilla i7-950.


Soooo prettttyyyy


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverthorne*
> 
> My second ever build; the first was much more vanilla i7-950.


Very nice.


----------



## maxforces

http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/3wayg.jpg.html


----------



## BradleyW

I used the shake and tilt to bleed the loop, but I found it created more problems, so I decided to just let the system run for a few days and all the air goes away. I remove the Res cap every so often to let air escape. When building my loop for the 3rd time, I decided to fill the Rads as well as the Res. This cut the air bleeding time from a full 2 days to about 4 hours. Maybe this is something others would like to try. It might help.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I use the shake and tilt to bleed the loop, but I found it created more problems, so I decided to just let the system run for a few days and all the air goes away. I remove the Res cap every so often to let air escape. When building my loop for the 3rd time, I decided to fill the Rads and well as the Res. This cut the air bleeding time from a full 2 days to about 4 hours. Maybe this is something others would like to try. It might help.


See a few posts above..pump enough air=hiccup bubbles to purge out that u speaK of..it really works..makes you understand your loopy...swear to it.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> See a few posts above..pump enough air=hiccup bubbles to purge out that u speaK of..it really works..makes you understand your loopy...swear to it.


I just fill the rads as well as the res from now on, without tilting. Seems to clear the air out quickly and removes the chances of an airlock.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I just fill the rads as well as the res from now on, without tilting. Seems to clear the air out quickly and removes the chances of an airlock.


Most best and very good, but for some is "just pour it in" and turn ON off and on, off, and on, etc...blah...do it like you wanna fill up your blood system..lol..don't wanna miss that sertain comething cspecial..spelling went really wrong there.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Most best and very good, but for some is "just pour it in" and turn ON off and on, off, and on, etc...blah...do it like you wanna fill up your blood system..lol..don't wanna miss that sertain comething cspecial..spelling went really wrong there.


I also toggle the system on and off a couple of times, but I gave up on the tilting stuff. I think that only helps if you have a massive airlock in the rad.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I also toggle the system on and off a couple of times, but I gave up on the tilting stuff. I think that only helps if you have a massive airlock in the rad.


See...that is where the bicycle pump helps...you no longer have to on- off.eee with pump to make it catch up with the liquid that's trying to equalize your loopy level with gravity. FORCE LUKE...


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> See...that is where the bicycle pump helps...you no longer have to on- off.eee with pump to make it catch up with the liquid that's trying to equalize your loopy level with gravity. FORCE LUKE...


I get ya now!


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I get ya now!


Cool..just its so much easier and you'll notice where you might need to change up flow blocks- consistency. Hydraulics-psi and flow is my game..play with it at work. Push-flow-capacity..and rewind that to be effective.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverthorne*
> 
> My second ever build; the first was much more vanilla i7-950.


Well done mate.


----------



## BradleyW

That looks excellent indeed!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Most likely it's air in one or both of your radiators, or possibly your water block as well. Those XSPC 750s aren't very good pumps. I had one for a little while and I wasn't impressed with it at all. I don't know how you have your loop configured, but the pump might not be up to the task of being able to purge all of the air out of your loop very easily. You may have to do a lot of tilting and shaking to get all of the air out and get closer to the performance that you were expecting.


Loop goes: pump>360 rad>CPU>240 rad>res/pump

Seems like having a much longer total rad length took it's toll on the pump.








Planning on upgrading it anyway.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> High CPU temps with cool rads is a sign of a poor mount.
> 
> Reseat your block carefully with fresh TIM.
> 
> **edit** Like stated, air pockets can also cause it.


I am also looking at replacing my TIM. And ensure I have a good mount.
On just a 240, the rads goes hot that I can't help but wonder how it can still dissipate the more CPU heat. But ran Stability 5 hours and the temps no longer increased.









Will surely look into these.

Thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I let mine run as I crack open a cap on the res (highest point in my loop) and carefully tilt the rig or add more with the cap/bleeder open


Thanks for the tip









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I used the shake and tilt to bleed the loop, but I found it created more problems, so I decided to just let the system run for a few days and all the air goes away. I remove the Res cap every so often to let air escape. When building my loop for the 3rd time, I decided to fill the Rads as well as the Res. This cut the air bleeding time from a full 2 days to about 4 hours. Maybe this is something others would like to try. It might help.


So Pre-filling components saves time bleeding the loop? I am scared of the idea of a spill though.. lol

But will have to look at the possibility of applying the technique as well.

Thanks guys!!! from a wuterculing N







B


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Loop goes: pump>360 rad>CPU>240 rad>res/pump
> 
> Seems like having a much longer total rad length took it's toll on the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning on upgrading it anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am also looking at replacing my TIM. And ensure I have a good mount.
> On just a 240, the rads goes hot that I can't help but wonder how it can still dissipate the more CPU heat. But ran Stability 5 hours and the temps no longer increased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will surely look into these.
> 
> Thanks.
> Thanks for the tip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So Pre-filling components saves time bleeding the loop? I am scared of the idea of a spill though.. lol
> 
> But will have to look at the possibility of applying the technique as well.
> 
> Thanks guys!!! from a wuterculing N
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B


Don't B FRI-TEND..ahhh..just fill it up..when the rez u have is 1/2 full...cap a fitting and( with air) push the liquid until it u have just a small amount in the bottom, then add more and re-PETE


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michelle911*
> 
> can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> silly little h80 here... so many truly awesome things to see in this thread my mind is reeling... my build seemed like a big deal to me - until I saw this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't worry about that, it looks good. Here's the first watercooled computer I built (which used an AIO cooler):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Then back in July I built my first custom loop:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Then, I joined here and saw everyone's builds and felt exactly the same way you did. So, I continued on it and here's what it looked like last week:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Although, last week I did find something odd building up in my reservoir.


Looked like alge to me (I used a magic eraser to remove that stuff showing and it was a greenish color), so I decided to use the teardown time to also change the front rad. to UT60 240mm rad. and do some other things as well. It's back up and running now, but it's too dark to take a final picture of it, although the only visual difference is that the front radiator is twice as tall.


----------



## Pimphare

I've started a build log fellas. Stop by and check out my progress sometime. I'm in the process of modding the case so there'll be many pics to follow.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1490428/build-log-celtic-frost#post_22290065


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxforces*
> 
> http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/3wayg.jpg.html


very nice bud i like the artwork of your case. im thinking about having a friend taking my phantek ethoo primo and do some sort of smoke "dragon scale" skin with it torn like it was in a battle in some areas.


----------



## siffonen

Hot summer day in Finland so i decided to clean my pc outside and took some better shots of it:


----------



## skupples

I try to fill up my radiators before filling up the reservoir. Helps with purging out most of the pesky bubbles. Specially when you vertically mounted radiators.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxforces*
> 
> http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/3wayg.jpg.html


Here's one for team green. Love the paint job.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I try to fill up my radiators before filling up the reservoir. Helps with purging out most of the pesky bubbles. Specially when you vertically mounted radiators.


+1 I do the same.


----------



## Dortheleus

Gang,

I'm going to need some help. I tried to deal with my local 3D print shop to make my reservoir but they want to charge me +1000$CAN.
I have an autocad file if anyone willing to help me. I have 0 tools needed to make my reservoir myself.

Please help, PM me if you can help. I'm willing to pay for parts, time, and shipment.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Gang,
> 
> I'm going to need some help. I tried to deal with my local 3D print shop to make my reservoir but they want to charge me +1000$CAN.
> I have an autocad file if anyone willing to help me. I have 0 tools needed to make my reservoir myself.
> 
> Please help, PM me if you can help. I'm willing to pay for parts, time, and shipment.


$1000,- ??? Are they printing it from solid gold filament?
Try this: www.shapeways.com


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Gang,
> 
> I'm going to need some help. I tried to deal with my local 3D print shop to make my reservoir but they want to charge me +1000$CAN.
> I have an autocad file if anyone willing to help me. I have 0 tools needed to make my reservoir myself.
> 
> Please help, PM me if you can help. I'm willing to pay for parts, time, and shipment.


Send me the DWG or SLDPRT file.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> $1000,- ??? Are they printing it from solid gold filament?
> Try this: www.shapeways.com


I want it transparent and the material they propose is called Vero and it's very expensive I guess.


----------



## Devildog83

I finally got my 90's and extensions, the bends are done and ready to figure out how the hell to fill this stupid res. There should be a port on the side of the top to fill this thing.


----------



## Pimphare

@Devildog83
Nicely done with the fittings and bends! Looks fantastic!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I finally got my 90's and extensions, the bends are done and ready to figure out how the hell to fill this stupid res. There should be a port on the side of the top to fill this thing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I LOVE the bends and parallel lines!! I hope that I'll be able to achieve something similar.


----------



## skupples

Looks like you boxed yourself into a corner. Filling via rad only goes so fst until you start spurting water everywhere.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now I can't wait to play with acrylic


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I finally got my 90's and extensions, the bends are done and ready to figure out how the hell to fill this stupid res. There should be a port on the side of the top to fill this thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was in the same boat as you, with just about ~15mm of space above/below my Photon. I had to get a hold of a Anex Slim Offset Screwdriver just to be able to open/close it. Filling wasn't too bad with one of these lil' guys though:



http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=Wash+Bottle
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=Wash+Bottle

Do keep in mind that the fill port in the Photon requires you to tilt the res to an angle of about 30 degrees or more (put a few books under the front or back feet of your case) so that one of the oval-shaped holes inside is high enough above the others to let air escape so fluid can go in or else you're going to have a mess on your hands. Many people do complain about filling the Photon but as long as you put a good tilt on it filling isn't really a problem.

---
Edit: Truth be told though, I drilled holes in the top of my case (under the top filter cover) to make fill ports from the top-facing ports on my top rad, so I don't actually use the fill port in my Photon for filling much any more except for the occasional topping it off. For initial filling/bleeding I just crack open the fill port in my Photon just enough to let air escape and the res fills from the bottom as I fill the loop from the top. I just close up the Photon's fill port when the fluid reaches the top of it and continue filling the rest of the loop until the top rad is topped off. Doing it this way lets me fill up the entire loop in one go so there is very little bleeding that I have to do.


----------



## Noviets

I've come to join the club!

I've finally had the balls to take out all the tissues in my case









Cathodes on lights off


Cathodes off lights on


Lapped the 8350


There's alot of UV coming from the top of the res plug, that will be fixed when I top it up again, it's still bleeding out air bubbles so I'm going to give it a week then i'll fill her up again.

At the moment I have the fans on the top of the case as I was waiting for some 5mm matt black large head screws to mount the rad to the top of the case as the rads themselves only came with 30mm screws.

Sorry about the horrible pictures, it's very late here, so it's pitch black outside and I have bad lighting in my room. I actually got a flashlight out to take the pictures lol, commitment









Parts are 360 XT45 top (will be push from inside to out), 240 UT60 front (push from outside to in) D5 Vario X-top Plexi, Plexi Z-Multi 150mm res, Koolance CPU-380A block and all matte black Bitspower compressions.

Next stage, Crossfire 290's!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im drawn to taking a dremel to this....



A bit of a step down for me but....I can see so much I could do with this......


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im drawn to taking a dremel to this....
> 
> 
> 
> A bit of a step down for me but....I can see so much I could do with this......


I would go full black then add spray paint.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im drawn to taking a dremel to this....
> 
> 
> 
> A bit of a step down for me but....I can see so much I could do with this......
> 
> 
> 
> I would go full black then add spray paint.
Click to expand...

Black...not this time.

I have seen the paint I want already.

After ripping its guts out tho,lets not get ahead of ourselves here.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ...,lets not get ahead of ourselves here.


Ya, I already have my second build lined up. I'm planning on a full motion Mid-Tower SteamPunk WCed PC.


----------



## Jeronbernal

b neg, i have a ds cube window extra, that's black, if you are getting that case and for some reason need a window for the other side, let me know, i ordered the ds cube, and a second window, but decided against the cube, but forgot to cancel the window/side panel so if you want it fo' free lmk


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

B Neg, change all the orange to light blue and leave the black. Thank me later


----------



## Devildog83

Leak testing now. I wasn't too bad. The local hardware store had and small tube that fit on the end of a funnel and I went in through the top and no problem. I have some clean up and cable management after leak testing. I did manage to run P95 for a while and got less than 42C after 10 mins of small FFT's. It's about 15c cooler even with the fans at about 1500 RPM.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Got milk?


----------



## whiteskymage

Hey guys,

has anyone of you tried to fit an XSPC Razor waterblock on a EVGA GTX 780 6GB card? Can you suggest a waterblock which can fit it?


----------



## Jeronbernal

i have the EK FC 780 CSQ acrylic block in it, the acetal will fit aswell
im using the 3gb 780ti, but assuming they just put the memory on the other side of the PCB like they do most upgraded ram cards, you should be gravy baby.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whiteskymage*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> has anyone of you tried to fit an XSPC Razor waterblock on a EVGA GTX 780 6GB card? Can you suggest a waterblock which can fit it?


I use a EK FC780 TI, which is applicable for the titan, 780 and 780ti, for my 780ti, and assuming that your 780 6gb is similar to most upgraded ram video cards, that the memory was slapped on the other side of the PCB, then you should be all gravy baby, as long as you don't have a backplate made to only support a 3gb card


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Attempted to make an inlet port for my Dual Parallel Terminal, just to see if I could make it work, and I ended up making it slightly angled, so that was a no go. I will not attempt it with the triple terminal, as I don't want to lose the block or risk it malfunctioning and leaking.


----------



## Noviets

My first watercooling loop and no one even mentions it
My heart is in pieces


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> My first watercooling loop and no one even mentions it
> My heart is in pieces


Looks nice and clean for a first time water cooler.









That GPU is screaming for waterblock though!


----------



## WiSK

Congrats on joining the league of watercoolers








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Sorry about the horrible pictures, it's very late here, so it's pitch black outside and I have bad lighting in my room. I actually got a flashlight out to take the pictures lol, commitment


Better wait until next morning and take good pictures than show these with reflections in the window.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> My first watercooling loop and no one even mentions it
> My heart is in pieces


Its very hard to actually see your build with the pictures you posted. Post some pictures with good ambient lighting either from a window with the pc side panel off or just room lamps around it and you will get alot more feedback.

The lack of comments is not from people not liking it but rather not being able to see it.


----------



## whiteskymage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> I use a EK FC780 TI, which is applicable for the titan, 780 and 780ti, for my 780ti, and assuming that your 780 6gb is similar to most upgraded ram video cards, that the memory was slapped on the other side of the PCB, then you should be all gravy baby, as long as you don't have a backplate made to only support a 3gb card


Can I put LEDs on the EK FC780 Ti waterblock?


----------



## Pimphare

@Noviets
Congrats to you in your venture of water cooling!!

Looks great from what I can see. Love the green tubing!


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Anyone know where to get a cheap GTX 770 Waterblock? The cheapest one on FrozenCPU is 100 bucks, which i will get if it is the cheapest one out there. BTW: Its an EVGA GTX 770 SC 2GB


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Anyone know where to get a cheap GTX 770 Waterblock? The cheapest one on FrozenCPU is 100 bucks, which i will get if it is the cheapest one out there. BTW: Its an EVGA GTX 770 SC 2GB


Quality is paramount in a waterblock, and quality isn't cheap. I would counsel to look for quality instead of cheap, and u can use the code "OCN" to get 5.1% off at FCPU, and "OCN55" to get 5.5% at PPCS to help with that.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Does a 780 block work with a 770?


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quality is paramount in a waterblock, and quality isn't cheap. I would counsel to look for quality instead of cheap, and u can use the code "OCN" to get 5.1% off at FCPU, and "OCN55" to get 5.5% at PPCS to help with that.


Do we have any other code rebate like that with other sites?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Does a 780 block work with a 770?


No, the PCBs are too different.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Anyone know where to get a cheap GTX 770 Waterblock? The cheapest one on FrozenCPU is 100 bucks, which i will get if it is the cheapest one out there. BTW: Its an EVGA GTX 770 SC 2GB
> 
> 
> 
> Quality is paramount in a waterblock, and quality isn't cheap. *I would counsel to look for quality instead of cheap*, and u can use the code "OCN" to get 5.1% off at FCPU, and "OCN55" to get 5.5% at PPCS to help with that.
Click to expand...

All this.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All this.


Sounds good. I will buy the EK Acrylic 770 Waterblock from FrozenCPU.


----------



## SgtMunky

Hopefully will joining you all soon with my TJ07









Just trying to work out what stuff to buy!


----------



## ledzepp3

Hey everybody







While I'm sorting pump stuff out, is it acceptable to not use the bottom piece of a Bitspower D5 pump mod? I'd like to have open access to the speed controls for bleeding without having to deal with these stupid little holes









The pump seems to be making a solid seal with the o-ring which connects it to the pump top.

Here's a picture of the bottom plate I'm speaking of











-Zepp


----------



## minicooper1

Inviato dal mio SM-N9005 con Tapatalk 2


----------



## Gabrielzm

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="ledzepp3" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/68270#post_22298640"]Hey everybody







While I'm sorting pump stuff out, is it acceptable to not use the bottom piece of a Bitspower D5 pump mod? I'd like to have open access to the speed controls for bleeding without having to deal with these stupid little holes









The pump seems to be making a solid seal with the o-ring which connects it to the pump top.

Here's a picture of the bottom plate I'm speaking of











-Zepp[/quote


]

Sure mate. That plate and cover is just for aesthetic reasons.


----------



## Jeronbernal

i think the plate also keeps the pump pushed against the o ring doesnt it? i dont really remember too much been a while since i installed mine, but i thought it helped compress the pump against the o ring?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> i think the plate also keeps the pump pushed against the o ring doesnt it? i dont really remember too much been a while since i installed mine, but i thought it helped compress the pump against the o ring?


mmmm...Might be...But he can also use the original pump ring to secure the pump on the top if that is so:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12199/ex-pmp-122/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Extreme_Pump_Mod_Top_V2_-_Acetal_BP-D5TOPP2EX-BK.html?tl=g30c107s1805#blank


----------



## Jakusonfire

Like all D5 mounts the mod kit secures the pump on the shoulder rather than the base. The bottom plate is not needed at all.


----------



## Kimir

Yep, like the D5 kit, shipped with another plate to accommodate the pump cover.


Adding picture to the gallery with this. Second rig, soon to be filled and powered up.








moar in my log


----------



## Blackspots

Ok, here's what I've been working on. Any idea where I should put the reservoir?


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yep, like the D5 kit, shipped with another plate to accommodate the pump cover.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding picture to the gallery with this. Second rig, soon to be filled and powered up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moar in my log
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*Nice build*







*I went with White my self this is how it turned out*


----------



## morencyam

Nice work Kimir. Great looking build. I really like the black interior and white exterior.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, like the D5 kit, shipped with another plate to accommodate the pump cover.
> 
> 
> 
> Adding picture to the gallery with this. Second rig, soon to be filled and powered up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moar in my log


Those fans are so deliciously beautiful (and expensive!)


----------



## Ragsters

Why do people leave a gap of air on top of their reservoir? I like filling mine to the very top. Is there a reason why I shouldn't?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Why do people leave a gap of air on top of their reservoir? I like filling mine to the very top. Is there a reason why I shouldn't?


Could be to leave room for air expansion as oxygen dissolved in the water will escape when the temperature increase? I saw some res cap or G1/4 plug with something to let the air out and avoid pressure buildup.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Why do people leave a gap of air on top of their reservoir? I like filling mine to the very top. Is there a reason why I shouldn't?


Relieve psi when unscrewing cap, don't want to spit up liquid. It's preference just a enough to avoid a spray.


----------



## wermad

Some of the air still in the system slowly makes its way out of the loop. I just top it off every few days as long as the res doesn't run out completely. Other then that, I usually top off. Why others leave them part way, could be a good guess I suppose, ? Could be that they're using a special coolant and just didn't have enough to top it off, ? Who knows ?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Could be to leave room for air expansion as oxygen dissolved in the water will escape when the temperature increase? I saw some res cap or G1/4 plug with something to let the air out and avoid pressure buildup.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Relieve psi when unscrewing cap, don't want to spit up liquid. It's preference just a enough to avoid a spray.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some of the air still in the system slowly makes its way out of the loop. I just top it off every few days as long as the res doesn't run out completely. Other then that, I usually top off. Why others leave them part way, could be a good guess I suppose, ? Could be that they're using a special coolant and just didn't have enough to top it off, ? Who knows ?


I mean I see a lot people leave like 1/2" to 1" at the top but I just don't know why.


----------



## Jimhans1

Remember folks, liquid expands as it's heated, and you cannot compress a liquid, so leaving a slight bit of air at the top of the res is recommended so as to not increase the pressure inside the loop.


----------



## Errorist66

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Adding picture to the gallery with this. Second rig, soon to be filled and powered up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moar in my log






very nice. Got to find out how you sleeve each wire individually to the GPU and the PSU. Everything rebuilt from scratch or there's some tool to push each wire out of these connector like for the molex?

and: PV = nRT


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Remember folks, liquid expands as it's heated, and you cannot compress a liquid, so leaving a slight bit of air at the top of the res is recommended so as to not increase the pressure inside the loop.


The water eventually transfers that heat to the rads (and then blown off through the air by the fans). So it really shouldn't generate too much pressure to cause a big enough back flow. I've opened by res about a dozen times this last couple of weeks (rma and testing







), and as usual, as soon as the res is opened, trapped air rushes out and the water level drops a bit. But for safety, i fill up to the level of the top cap in my FrozenQ res. I know there's a small cavity left and its out of sight







. Love those micro bubbles illuminated by the uv lamp







.

Really, the only time you should be worried about back flow is when the pump stops.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those fans are so deliciously beautiful (and expensive!)


Love the build and those sexy omg fans.... Just wish they had them in 80mm....


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> 
> very nice. Got to find out how you sleeve each wire individually to the GPU and the PSU. Everything rebuilt from scratch or there's some tool to push each wire out of these connector like for the molex?
> 
> and: PV = nRT


this?


----------



## Blackspots

*YAWN* (Boy am I sleepy). Anyway, nearly complete render. I might have to move the res somewhere else (or where I had it originally), but this helps give me an idea.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> *YAWN* (Boy am I sleepy). Anyway, nearly complete render. I might have to move the res somewhere else (or where I had it originally), but this helps give me an idea.


How'd ya get it to render a pic like that. I just bought a Air 540, and trying to figure where to put that booger, or go with a dual bay pump res thingy.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> How'd ya get it to render a pic like that. I just bought a Air 540, and trying to figure where to put that booger, or go with a dual bay pump res thingy.


All of the objects in that are pre-made renders shared by others (Can find them on the Object ( or 3D) Warehouse for Sketchup). The case itself, someone built the render and has it available for download in the thread for the case.

Otherwise, I go to File --> Export --> 2D graphic


----------



## Jeronbernal

I always wondered that too


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> All of the objects in that are pre-made renders shared by others (Can find them on the Object ( or 3D) Warehouse for Sketchup). The case itself, someone built the render and has it available for download in the thread for the case.
> 
> Otherwise, I go to File --> Export --> 2D graphic


Ohh..give it try tom tom..


----------



## Juthos

Fittings for 16mm acrylic tube:
C89 a larger version of c47:

eml16


----------



## fakeblood

My Nickelblack build making so progress.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> *Nice build*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I went with White my self this is how it turned out*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks, yours is nice too, you did a much better job with the sleeved cable than I can manage to.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Nice work Kimir. Great looking build. I really like the black interior and white exterior.


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those fans are so deliciously beautiful (and expensive!)


Yes they are (I got the 10x eLoop B12-P with 20% discount, still 15€ each)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> very nice. Got to find out how you sleeve each wire individually to the GPU and the PSU. Everything rebuilt from scratch or there's some tool to push each wire out of these connector like for the molex?
> 
> and: PV = nRT
> 
> 
> 
> this?
Click to expand...

Yep, that's the one for pci-e connector.
I use this one


Note that I didn't made the GPU cable sleeve, they are the G2/P2 *********** Supply Cable Set (Individually Sleeved).


----------



## Noviets

Thanks for the kind comments! Although I feel a bit silly having said what I did, just spent alot of money ya know?









I got my 5mm screws in today, they're exactly the same as the original alphacool screws, matte black, same head and everything, very happy.

Was finally able to put the fans inside my case! (Turns out it ALOT easier to wire them in before you screw them all down, lesson learned lol)

Re-did the wire management at the back of the case (even though it still looks horrible) I can get my case panel on without any of the wires touching it, which was my goal. There's alot of Molex/fan connectors and the like back there, get's pretty hard to manage it, but I'm absolutely in love with this case!

The only thing I can see that would make it better, is getting rid of the little Lip thats around the back of the motherboard's easy access backplace cut out, even a few mm sticking out would have been fine, the way it is now, pretty much restricts you from having cables cut the corners if they're not quite long enough.

Also filled the Res up, it's already gone down a tiny bit, but I think that's because of the pressure that the pump makes in a closed loop

I took so better pictures for you guys, and for myself













I don't have my Cathodes running, because both the inverters blew, waiting for the warranty replacements to get here.
Do you guys have problems with CCFL Inverters? Namely the Bitspower ones? I've gone through 2 in as many days, my LED's are still going strong, should I switch to all LED's?
I have the Fan Controller, Pump, one HDD, and the inverter plugged into a ingle 12v rail. Do you guys think that many be contributing towards their failure? The inverters themselves are 5.5mA


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Thanks for the kind comments! Although I feel a bit silly having said what I did, just spent alot of money ya know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my 5mm screws in today, they're exactly the same as the original alphacool screws, matte black, same head and everything, very happy.
> 
> Was finally able to put the fans inside my case! (Turns out it ALOT easier to wire them in before you screw them all down, lesson learned lol)
> 
> Re-did the wire management at the back of the case (even though it still looks horrible) I can get my case panel on without any of the wires touching it, which was my goal. There's alot of Molex/fan connectors and the like back there, get's pretty hard to manage it, but I'm absolutely in love with this case!
> 
> The only thing I can see that would make it better, is getting rid of the little Lip thats around the back of the motherboard's easy access backplace cut out, even a few mm sticking out would have been fine, the way it is now, pretty much restricts you from having cables cut the corners if they're not quite long enough.
> 
> Also filled the Res up, it's already gone down a tiny bit, but I think that's because of the pressure that the pump makes in a closed loop
> 
> I took so better pictures for you guys, and for myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have my Cathodes running, because both the inverters blew, waiting for the warranty replacements to get here.
> Do you guys have problems with CCFL Inverters? Namely the Bitspower ones? I've gone through 2 in as many days, my LED's are still going strong, should I switch to all LED's?
> I have the Fan Controller, Pump, one HDD, and the inverter plugged into a ingle 12v rail. Do you guys think that many be contributing towards their failure? The inverters themselves are 5.5mA


I use all LED's now. better light, less heat and less power. My cathodes sit in a box.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I use all LED's now. better light, less heat and less power. My cathodes sit in a box.


Even for UV lighting?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Even for UV lighting?


Sorry, I don't use UV so I don't know.


----------



## Noviets

Was thinking about getting some of these
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1354_1356&products_id=24042

But they're quite expensive and I know B_NEGATIVE hates Phoyba with a passion, but are their lights okay?

Are they brighter than cathodes? I currently have 2x20cm and 2x30cm cathodes


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those fans are so deliciously beautiful (and expensive!)


You aint lyin'! I spent over two bills on 9 of 'em. eeek! They're great fans though.


----------



## Dortheleus

So for the Montrealer on the site, I found Distilled water. I found it at RONA in the cleaning section @ 4$+tax / 4L

Cheers


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> So for the Montrealer on the site, I found Distilled water. I found it at RONA in the cleaning section @ 4$+tax / 4L
> 
> Cheers


wow, expensive gallon of water.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wow, expensive gallon of water.


Expensive gallon of water VAPOR







but hey it cost ALOT less then my time for making some my self.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Anyone know how many ports XSPC RX V3 rads have? Is it 4, or 6?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Anyone know how many ports XSPC RX V3 rads have? Is it 4, or 6?


It looks like only 4.

XSPC RX360 V3 Radiator Overview and Benchmarks on YouTube


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, that answers that. Thanks!







Rep.

Was hoping for 6. I like the opposing set of ports Alphacool rads have as they make for great fill port / drain port locations for horizontally mounted rads in top/bottom of the case.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, that answers that. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rep.
> 
> Was hoping for 6. I like the opposing set of ports Alphacool rads have as they make for great fill port / drain port locations for horizontally mounted rads in top/bottom of the case.


I have to start paying you back for all of your help!









The Alphacool rads are great for that exact reason!


----------



## gdubc

I like those eloops also but I'm still waiting for Specialtech to get the new Alpenföhns. They have the blue ones up at ocuk and all of the colors at caseking, but caseking doesn't ship to the U.S. I do love those Alpenföhns...any word *@bneg*?


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Expensive gallon of water VAPOR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but hey it cost ALOT less then my time for making some my self.


That is insane dude, its like $.80 locally in the states!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, that answers that. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rep.
> 
> Was hoping for 6. I like the opposing set of ports Alphacool rads have as they make for great fill port / drain port locations for horizontally mounted rads in top/bottom of the case.


You can drill/tap your own G1/4 ports in a res with a cheap amazon tap+die set. Depending on the material you may want a nicer drill bit then your local convenience store brand, but its still easy. Just make sure you get the 19TPI size and straight thread, not tapered.

I've done it to add a G1/4 temp probe to an acrylic res, and I've made a PVC res from scratch with the same set to make the ports.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> So for the Montrealer on the site, I found Distilled water. I found it at RONA in the cleaning section @ 4$+tax / 4L
> 
> Cheers


Holy crap wonder how much it would cost to ship you a gallon, lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I like those eloops also but I'm still waiting for Specialtech to get the new Alpenföhns. They have the blue ones up at ocuk and all of the colors at caseking, but caseking doesn't ship to the U.S. I do love those Alpenföhns...any word *@bneg*?


I am waiting also,Alpenfohn only had a placeholder their site last week.


----------



## VSG

I love the look of those fans, is there a US retailer by any chance?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> That is insane dude, its like $.80 locally in the states!
> You can drill/tap your own G1/4 ports in a res with a cheap amazon tap+die set. Depending on the material you may want a nicer drill bit then your local convenience store brand, but its still easy. Just make sure you get the 19TPI size and straight thread, not tapered.
> 
> I've done it to add a G1/4 temp probe to an acrylic res, and I've made a PVC res from scratch with the same set to make the ports.


Uni was talking about rads mate not reservoirs...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You aint lyin'! I spent over two bills on 9 of 'em. eeek! They're great fans though.












I thought my fans were pricey ~$20...but I waited for the sales that dropped them to ~$12







. Ended up getting 30 all together


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Uni was talking about rads mate not reservoirs...


LOL don't know how I missed that lmao!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I love the look of those fans, is there a US retailer by any chance?


You are asking about the alpenfohns, yes? Afaik there is none in us. Frozen and Performance both answered through emails that they have no plans to carry them either. I got some of the orange 140mm wingboost from ocuk once but only because they had the superflower psu I wanted, otherwise Specialtech is much cheaper on shipping to the U.S. I just need them to get the orange 120 wingboost 2s!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I'm waiting for white 140s...need to lose the 120 on the exhaust on the s3.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Holy crap wonder how much it would cost to ship you a gallon, lol


In laval 5$ for 5 Gallon.

http://www.reefsolution.com/catalog/aquarium-marin-gallon-osmoser-refil-p-7431.html


----------



## Red1776

Time to get wet



4 x MSI R290X

EK-FC-R290X Rev 2.0

EK Terminal Quad Bridge


----------



## Unownbeing

That stuff says its reverse osmosis, its not going to be the same as distilled water that "should" have no other compounds or things like that in solution.


----------



## Blackspots

Hmm, ok. I think this will work.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I like those eloops also but I'm still waiting for Specialtech to get the new Alpenföhns. They have the blue ones up at ocuk and all of the colors at caseking, but caseking doesn't ship to the U.S. I do love those Alpenföhns...any word *@bneg*?


I really wanted to get some Alpenfohns but can't find them in the U.S.







I went ahead and got some eLoops and love em.

Has anyone tried these Sharkoon Shark Blade fans?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I really wanted to get some Alpenfohns but can't find them in the U.S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and got some eLoops and love em.
> 
> Has anyone tried these Sharkoon Shark Blade fans?


I was gonna buy some, but they were more expensive than the AP-14's so i got those lol.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Hmm, ok. I think this will work.


What program did you use to make that? Sketchup?


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I really wanted to get some Alpenfohns but can't find them in the U.S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and got some eLoops and love em.
> 
> Has anyone tried these Sharkoon Shark Blade fans?


Sharknado fans!!! I like 'em, but think the price is a lil' on the high side atm considering there are similar performing (some better) at the same or less price point.
Will say that they look VERY cool when running. Kind of remind me of the looks of the old Blapukt neon speakers from the late 90's when "on".


----------



## Pimphare

Hey guys, quick question. Is Performance PC good about accepting RMAs for an item you've just received and haven't used but there's nothing wrong with? The very next day after I receive my order they put a variation of that model on their site. The variation is what I want!







I wish I would've just been patient.

Edit: I've already submitted an RMA to them. Reason I ask is for nothing more than a piece of mind. It's kinda buggin me lol. Oh and it's watercooling related. I don't want to reveal anything just yet because I'm working on a build log.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Hmm, ok. I think this will work.


Looks good! But why not go with acrylic tubing and remove some of that restriction that will be caused by all those 90's? Not to mention costs less then having to buy all those extra fittings, and is much more simple then you would expect.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question. Is Performance PC good about accepting RMAs for an item you've just received and haven't used but there's nothing wrong with? The very next day after I receive my order they put a variation of that model on their site. The variation is what I want!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I would've just been patient.
> 
> Edit: I've already submitted an RMA to them. Reason I ask is for nothing more than a piece of mind. It's kinda buggin me lol. Oh and it's watercooling related. I don't want to reveal anything just yet because I'm working on a build log.


They will probably charge you a restocking fee for returning an item that seems to be it good working order.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> They will probably charge you a restocking fee for returning an item that seems to be it good working order.


Well I chose to return it for full store credit just a few hours ago. I think I'll have to pay for shipping unless they honor it fully. I'll have to wait and see tomorrow I suppose.


----------



## Elder

Why 380i has only a silver frame?
More black, I need more black


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> 
> 
> Why 380i has only a silver frame?
> More black, I need more black


Seemz u go it...looks cool, and better


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> What program did you use to make that? Sketchup?


Yep, used Sketchup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Looks good! But why not go with acrylic tubing and remove some of that restriction that will be caused by all those 90's? Not to mention costs less then having to buy all those extra fittings, and is much more simple then you would expect.


I figure it probably is best going with flexible acrylic then using rigid pipe. Or are you talking about rigid pipe and bending it?


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yep, used Sketchup.
> I figure it probably is best going with flexible acrylic then using rigid pipe. Or are you talking about rigid pipe and bending it?


Yes, I'm talking about bending it


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> *YAWN* (Boy am I sleepy). Anyway, nearly complete render. I might have to move the res somewhere else (or where I had it originally), but this helps give me an idea.


Oh man, love this, maybe I should have gone with Bitspower instead of Monsoon, I want straight tube ways and tasty colorways just like this.









+1


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Oh man, love this, maybe I should have gone with Bitspower instead of Monsoon, I want straight tube ways and tasty colorways just like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1


I chose the bitspower connectors because the EK versions weren't made in 3D


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> 
> 
> Why 380i has only a silver frame?
> More black, I need more black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A nice simple mod that makes all the difference.

I have done a few blocks in my time too....









Also,a new monitoring software that I have not come across before.

http://cam.nzxt.com/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sorry for the double post but one of our own is in a bad way.
Namron,a Specialtech regular and author of the Aquaero guide is seriously ill with lung cancer.

I would be greatly appreciative if you guys could just pop in to that thread and post messages of encouragement,he is dearly loved by us guys over there and we want him to know we as the watercooling community are rooting for him.

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4865-Had-a-bit-of-a-shock-amp-some-not-such-good-news-today!!

Thanks guys.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Does anyone have any input on running a bay Res in a haf xb or in any case where the Res is below everything else? I've got my htpc in a haf xb and i ordered the monsoon res pump combo and wasn't sure if it was going to work since the res is below and the fluid will back drain when its shut down. It just hit me last night. Anybody care to weigh in?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Does anyone have any input on running a bay Res in a haf xb or in any case where the Res is below everything else? I've got my htpc in a haf xb and i ordered the monsoon res pump combo and wasn't sure if it was going to work since the res is below and the fluid will back drain when its shut down. It just hit me last night. Anybody care to weigh in?


Once the loop is properly bled, there shouldn't be any 'backdrain', as there shouldn't be any air left in the closed loop. Bleeding might be a bit more of a chore than it otherwise could be, you might have to adjust pump speeds and tilt the case a bit, but eventually you should be able to get all the trapped air bubbles to the res where you get rid of them by keeping it topped off or close to it. It's not like if you open the fill port on the res fluid's going to come gushing out. Opening the fill port will only cause at most a tiny amount of movement of fluid level in the res because all the liquid in the loop has no way to move if there's not some other opening to the loop to let air in (sort of like when you can hold all the liquid in a drinking straw by holding the top sealed off with a finger). Placing the res at a higher location in a loop can make bleeding a bit easier but that's about it. The only thing that's really important about a res location in a loop is that it's immediately before & above the pump, and res/pump combos have that built-in by design.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry for the double post but one of our own is in a bad way.
> Namron,a Specialtech regular and author of the Aquaero guide is seriously ill with lung cancer.
> 
> I would be greatly appreciative if you guys could just pop in to that thread and post messages of encouragement,he is dearly loved by us guys over there and we want him to know we as the watercooling community are rooting for him.
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4865-Had-a-bit-of-a-shock-amp-some-not-such-good-news-today!!
> 
> Thanks guys.


Will do B Neg.

So I'm going to incorporate two more rads in my 800D build. Total this will be two 360s, one 240, two GPU blocks, and a CPU block. Can a single MCP655 handle this? Or should i just go ahead and get two?

Also my second question is regarding the dual Bitspower pump top i can use the left or the right outlet on the top correct? I'm not restricted to one outlet due to direction of flow? Maybe a stupid question.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Will do B Neg.
> 
> So I'm going to incorporate two more rads in my 800D build. Total this will be two 360s, one 240, two GPU blocks, and a CPU block. Can a single MCP655 handle this? Or should i just go ahead and get two?
> 
> Also my second question is regarding the dual Bitspower pump top i can use the left or the right outlet on the top correct? I'm not restricted to one outlet due to direction of flow? Maybe a stupid question.


Yes, an MCP655 can handle that without any issue.


----------



## mus1mus

How much difference can a d5 make in terms of temps in my current set up of 2x360 rads with an XSPC 750 pump? This is a CPU only loop at the moment.

Reason I'm asking is that, a single 240 tamed my chip considerably well while being warm up to 40+s. But when an additional 360 rad was added, temps are the same, except less rad heat.

I'm thinking the pump went weaker on the pressure with an added rad.. Water and even stays cool.

My current rads: XSPC EX360 + black ice gts 360. The latter is known to be more restrictive coz of the thin core..

Also, how does a standard d5 compare with those with tops¿ except the looks of course..


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Happy Memorial Day with some more great savings from Performance-PCs!
> View this email in your browser
> 
> It's easy to think of Memorial Day as simply... an extra day off work... a three-day weekend. But, this day is meant to honor the men and women of the Armed Forces who gave their lives in the service of their country. Please do not forget our lost comrades in arms and the families of these brave souls that are left behind.
> 
> We offer a couple of coupons to use for this Holiday Weekend when you can shop in-between your barbecue and family gatherings:
> 
> Spend $0-$500, get 7% off: "MEMDAY14-7"
> Spend over $500, get 9% off: "MEMDAY14-9"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from May 23rd through May 30th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


Not their best coupons but better than the typical 5.5%


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, an MCP655 can handle that without any issue.


And what speed would you suggest before there is a performance loss?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> And what speed would you suggest before there is a performance loss?


It really depends on quite a number of factors. The size of the loop, the amount of restriction in the loop, and what the overall potential heat dissipation is for the loop. That isn't an answer that will be the same for everyone.

It will also depend on what heat load the loop is currently being used to dissipate. Being that this will vary depending on the stress of the system, this also can't be answered easily. The best way to actually determine this would be to change the speed of the pump during various types of usage to determine the optimum speed for each type of usage. Generally speaking, idle load will require a lower speed while a higher load will require a higher speed. Each system will be a little different depending on the variables mentioned.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, an MCP655 can handle that without any issue.
> 
> 
> 
> And what speed would you suggest before there is a performance loss?
Click to expand...

The moment you reduce speed,whether that loss is significant is up to you.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Does anyone have any input on running a bay Res in a haf xb or in any case where the Res is below everything else? I've got my htpc in a haf xb and i ordered the monsoon res pump combo and wasn't sure if it was going to work since the res is below and the fluid will back drain when its shut down. It just hit me last night. Anybody care to weigh in?


I would suggest using the bottom input as well. That will help with the filling process.


----------



## Gunderman456

I have that pump using a 360 and 240 rad x2 with two GPUs and it works flawless. I also tested 2-5 speed, and best speed was 5 as it shaved off more Celsius.


----------



## p0Pe

Since we are on the topic of CPU blocks - my all time favorit:










Yes yes, it is not a real block, but a rendering I did. Tutorial on how to model it in inventor can be found *here* if you want to make your own


----------



## VSG

Pope, make them. Make them immediately


----------



## p0Pe

I could make a batch of clear acrylic tops if anyone would fork out the cash for it. The block is the aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos. One of the most well made blocks ever IMO


----------



## skupples

Oh man, I would love a real glass top.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p0Pe*
> 
> I could make a batch of clear acrylic tops if anyone would fork out the cash for it. The block is the aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos. One of the most well made blocks ever IMO


You know there isn't even a need to ask that, right? People here pay $100-200 for sleeving cables and something like this would come in with a lot more aesthetics points.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I have that pump using a 360 and 240 rad x2 with two GPUs and it works flawless. I also tested 2-5 speed, and best speed was 5 as it shaved off more Celsius.


How is the noise at 5?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I have that pump using a 360 and 240 rad x2 with two GPUs and it works flawless. I also tested 2-5 speed, and best speed was 5 as it shaved off more Celsius.


Now you need to drop to speed 4 and retest.


----------



## Gunderman456

Can't hear the thing, even when it was the only thing running while filling and bleeding the loop.

Additionally, if you go the Hawaiian Heat Wave build (in sig), you can see the various speed tests and the resulting temps.


----------



## Jeronbernal

My 250d, finished blocking and polishing, just waiting for the rads tomorrow and a few Mish mash things, just finish making the rest of the cables today, their tiny lol, I'd say my longest cable is the sata cable and it's probably only 9 inches long, 24pin is around 6, the 6+2&6 pin are around 8, converted the molex 4pin to sata to remove the need for molex





After the rads just need to bend tubing and I should be good to go, oh and wait for the acrylic from parvum


----------



## Puck

Very nice.

I recently built a 250D for a friend and its an awesome case, she loves it.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Very nice.
> 
> I recently built a 250D for a friend and its an awesome case, she loves it.


Just a friend.......eh.....eh!


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Once the loop is properly bled, there shouldn't be any 'backdrain', as there shouldn't be any air left in the closed loop. Bleeding might be a bit more of a chore than it otherwise could be, you might have to adjust pump speeds and tilt the case a bit, but eventually you should be able to get all the trapped air bubbles to the res where you get rid of them by keeping it topped off or close to it. It's not like if you open the fill port on the res fluid's going to come gushing out. Opening the fill port will only cause at most a tiny amount of movement of fluid level in the res because all the liquid in the loop has no way to move if there's not some other opening to the loop to let air in (sort of like when you can hold all the liquid in a drinking straw by holding the top sealed off with a finger). Placing the res at a higher location in a loop can make bleeding a bit easier but that's about it. The only thing that's really important about a res location in a loop is that it's immediately before & above the pump, and res/pump combos have that built-in by design.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I would suggest using the bottom input as well. That will help with the filling process.


Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it.







I was going to use the bottom inputs as well. Bleeding will be a little bit of a challenge im sure. Luckily it can easily be handled since its so small and has the handles on the side, so tilting it around will be pretty easy.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Slinky and James' are probably some of the hardest-core builds I've seen with green. Mean green!
> 
> Other colors like orange and purple, white, etc. have some mystique to them that makes them very interesting. But green, don't know why the hate? Can't really put my finger on it but its just not too widely embraced imho. Almost red-head stepchild love (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Its probably the overload of red and blue themed builds. I've had a few takes w/ those colors and even white, but green, its something special to me at this point.
> 
> I don't know, but I guess this can sum up my preference and interest in green, understated beauty:


A little off topic, but have you seen *this* yet wermad?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> A little off topic, but have you seen *this* yet wermad?


Also a little off topic, my apologies, but... What is going on with this thread?



Post# 68373 of 68370... are you posting in the future? I had to click the link to the wording in the thread, or it just goes to post 68370 and says there are no new posts. how is that possible, lol.

*edit* Ha, my post #  Something wonky is going on, lol.


----------



## Jimhans1

When mods delete a post it still shows in the counter maybe??


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Also a little off topic, my apologies, but... What is going on with this thread?
> 
> 
> 
> Post# 68373 of 68370... are you posting in the future? I had to click the link to the wording in the thread, or it just goes to post 68370 and says there are no new posts. how is that possible, lol.
> 
> *edit* Ha, my post #  Something wonky is going on, lol.


It's a bug with Huddler that happens on big threads from time to time. Sadly we still haven't found out why it happens.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Yeah, sometimes i can't see the most recent post because the thread is all crazy lol


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry for the double post but one of our own is in a bad way.
> Namron,a Specialtech regular and author of the Aquaero guide is seriously ill with lung cancer.
> 
> I would be greatly appreciative if you guys could just pop in to that thread and post messages of encouragement,he is dearly loved by us guys over there and we want him to know we as the watercooling community are rooting for him.
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4865-Had-a-bit-of-a-shock-amp-some-not-such-good-news-today!!
> 
> Thanks guys.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Will do B Neg.


A very Big Thanks to not Just Neg... But to all of you guys/gals ( ican hardly tell at times.. but that's more down to my age than anything







) that have popped over or expressed you support here







....

Thanks again to all of you & Especially Mr B, NEG.. A good mate I've only ever met twice at a couple iseries here in the UK.. But you all know how it is when you meet some one for the first time!!... sometimes you just get that gut feeling that you've just met someone who will be real & straight with you & be a good buddy....... I wasn't wrong.... Thanks again Dan.. your one of them out the top drawer mate:thumb:.... (he'll hate me for saying that... but hey ho!!!.. sometimes things need to be said hey!!







)


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> A little off topic, but have you seen *this* yet wermad?










I need this


----------



## psycho84

Some "little" Changes ^^


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some "little" Changes ^^


Very clean. Really like the Minimal amount of tube showing.


----------



## VSG

Started a build log for the TX10: http://www.overclock.net/t/1491508/build-log-the-utterly-imbalanced-caselabs-tx10-d-build-s/0_50

Time to update my sig rig too I suppose!


----------



## Blackspots

I may have decided to go with the CaseLabs S5 case instead of the Corsair Carbide 540. I just wish there was a Sketchup model of that case.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## szeged

man i want some of those 480 nemesis rads but that price taggggggg


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## psycho84




----------



## nexusforce

Hey everyone just completed my first custom water loop in my Corsair Air 540, Here's the build log and some quick pics:


----------



## psycho84

For the first Time not bad









2 Things i would change:

1. The Pump up on the PSU ist not a good Place for it in my opinion ^^
2. I would place the discharge **** (is that the right word ?!) on the Backside but this is only an optical thing ^^

The Fluid is Mayhems Pastel ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I got bored so I made a fragging shirt.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I got bored so I made a fragging shirt.


Dude,that shirt is sick.

On another note....which cpu block should get for a future 1155 build,theme will be black & blue


or


Really liking the kryos...


----------



## Red1776

The 380 seems to test the best, but we are talking in a range of 1c +/-

but it loks good

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/17580/ex-blc-1376.jpg/ex-blc-1376/Koolance_CPU-380I_Intel_Liquid_Cooling_CPU_Block_-_No_Fittings_.html?tl=g30c323s831

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I got bored so I made a fragging shirt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude,that shirt is sick.
> 
> On another note....which cpu block should get for a future 1155 build,theme will be black & blue
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> Really liking the kryos...
Click to expand...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Dude,that shirt is sick.
> 
> On another note....which cpu block should get for a future 1155 build,theme will be black & blue
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really liking the kryos...


IMHO both look really dated.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


I've been waiting for your review







!


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMHO both look really dated.


I think they look way better than all the square blocks out now.Anyway,probably going with the AQ kryos.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> A very Big Thanks to not Just Neg... But to all of you guys/gals ( ican hardly tell at times.. but that's more down to my age than anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) that have popped over or expressed you support here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> Thanks again to all of you & Especially Mr B, NEG.. A good mate I've only ever met twice at a couple iseries here in the UK.. But you all know how it is when you meet some one for the first time!!... sometimes you just get that gut feeling that you've just met someone who will be real & straight with you & be a good buddy....... I wasn't wrong.... Thanks again Dan.. your one of them out the top drawer mate:thumb:.... (he'll hate me for saying that... but hey ho!!!.. sometimes things need to be said hey!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I am not registered at the specialtech forum and was heading over there to leave you a message mate. Keep up the fight and defeat this thing mate. Keep your spirit high which is half way to reverting this situation. I am not close (geographically) to where you are but if you need anything just drop a message. I have spare fans laying around (120 mm and 140 mm), rads, pump (d5), top and compression that I can send your way if you need for any specific review or project you want to work to keep your sanity and spirits high at these times. Just send a PM.

Cheers

Gabriel


----------



## skupples

I summon the power of the brain trust.

That dumbass triple DDC xspc block isnleaking from one of the in top seems you see when you look at the front of the top. All I have is home depot and I need to patch it. I have EP-200 epoxy putty, silicone glue, PVC pipe welder... What do you guys/gals think?


----------



## VSG

Loctite 495 worked great for me when I had a similar issue with the FrozenQ reservoir.


----------



## skupples

I ended up using 1 minute quick set epoxy, "Seal all", PVC glue, & E220 epoxy putty. Still dripping, but slow enough that I can just stuff towels in there every few hours.


----------



## nexusforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> For the first Time not bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 Things i would change:
> 
> 1. The Pump up on the PSU ist not a good Place for it in my opinion ^^
> 2. I would place the discharge **** (is that the right word ?!) on the Backside but this is only an optical thing ^^
> 
> The Fluid is Mayhems Pastel ?


Thanks and yea I had the same concern about putting the pump & res there. I saw others put it there in there builds for ease I suppose. I might change to the other chamber, just would have to plan the loop out. I felt the same about the drain line but since I had forgotten to order a T-fitting for an inline drain on the back, I just went ahead an added that make shift drain on the GPU block, I tested it by draining the loop and it works okay with a little effort. Oh and yea the coolant is Mayhems Pastel: Blueberry.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Here's my loop so far... i have the C47 fittings on, but i still have some 3/8 5/8th matte black bp fittings and tubing... im in between using acrylic tubing and soft tubing... what do you guys think would be better for a LAN PC that will be carried around? which would be more stable, compression fittings with soft tubing, or C47's with E22 acrylic tubing?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> I think they look way better than all the square blocks out now.Anyway,probably going with the AQ kryos.


One of my favorites is still the EK Supreme HF


If I had to choose between the two though, I'd definitely go with the kryos


----------



## Blackspots

Ok, how does this look for a water cooling setup? Decided to be daring and go a head and buy a CaseLabs Mercury S5 and pedastal (most likely August or September).





The idea here is the following:

1.) Coolant leaves the reservoir
2.) Goes into the 240 radiator then out
3.) Goes up to the CPU
4.) Then back down into the 360 radiator and out
5.) Up to the dual GTX760's
6.) Back down into the pump/reservoir

There's no Sketchup render of this case, so imagine the case is there.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*


Very tidy ... I love the case as well...
well done...


----------



## zzorro

hi mate..
here some pictures of my dual loop build but using old school hardware only.. hehe








not sure with one look better..








any idea?









picture for loop 1.. (Pump+Res>cpu>ram>Rad)

loop A


loop B


loop C


Loop 2 (Pump+Res>dual gpu>Rad)
still in progerss.. looking for best loop line


----------



## Jimhans1

Go single loop, pump+res>Dual GPU>Ram>CPU>RAD>RAD>back to pump+res. Just my







unless your doing the dual loop for some aesthetic reason.


----------



## skupples

I wonder if something in the Mayhem's X1 has caused the acrylic weld to weaken. I hit the pressure relief fitting once a day, so that is unlikely, & it seems unlikely a top made for 3 pumps would fail due to 3 pumps running @ 25% each. Maybe it was just a faulty top to begin with.... Guess i'm going to have to get a 4th DDC & 2x dual tops.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I wonder if something in the Mayhem's X1 has caused the acrylic weld to weaken. I hit the pressure relief fitting once a day, so that is unlikely, & it seems unlikely a top made for 3 pumps would fail due to 3 pumps running @ 25% each. Maybe it was just a faulty top to begin with.... Guess i'm going to have to get a 4th DDC & 2x dual tops.


Having run X1 in a lot of acrylic tops etc. is be more willing to blame the XSPC QC than I would the X1 personally. I've not had good luck with XSPC's products.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Having run X1 in a lot of acrylic tops etc. is be more willing to blame the XSPC QC than I would the X1 personally. I've not had good luck with XSPC's products.


First time I have ever used XSPC, but iv'e been jumped on by a few people in other areas by mentioning their low quality.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I summon the power of the brain trust.
> 
> That dumbass triple DDC xspc block isnleaking from one of the in top seems you see when you look at the front of the top. All I have is home depot and I need to patch it. I have EP-200 epoxy putty, silicone glue, PVC pipe welder... What do you guys/gals think?


Is it a crack?
If so then some weld-on wicking solvent should weld the gap up.


----------



## Jimhans1

Their rads seem ok, having never used one, I can't speak to the quality on them personally, but I've had several of their blocks, pump tops, and reservoirs, I can honestly say I won't use anything from them save for rads at this point.

@skupples do you mean that people got mad at you for saying that XSPC was low quality?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Their rads seem ok, having never used one, I can't speak to the quality on them personally, but I've had several of their blocks, pump tops, and reservoirs, I can honestly say I won't use anything from them save for rads at this point.


Their rads and blocks are great but they have had some criticism regarding bay res,the acrylic versions have leaked before and the black (ABS if i recall) versions had top issues with warping. First time for a top problem tho.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am not registered at the specialtech forum and was heading over there to leave you a message mate. Keep up the fight and defeat this thing mate. Keep your spirit high which is half way to reverting this situation. I am not close (geographically) to where you are but if you need anything just drop a message. I have spare fans laying around (120 mm and 140 mm), rads, pump (d5), top and compression that I can send your way if you need for any specific review or project you want to work to keep your sanity and spirits high at these times. Just send a PM.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Gabriel


Hi Gabriel... Thanks so very much, not just for taking your time out to wish me well & offer your support.... But for the extremely generous & heart felt offer to help with gear to help with my reviews e.t.c.. Wow Man!! Really humbling & am blown away by that & too all that have offered their help & fantastic support







.

To be honest & if I'm being honest to myself also, I pretty much have enough to keep me good for the next couple of guides I have coming up (the review/fitting guide is nearly there & ready to post up for the AQ6 New Heatsink as I just got hold of the black heatsink (already had the red, but needed a black to show side by side for pics) & to point out the corrected printing on the updated black heatsink)...

I also managed to get myself another AQ6 but Pro a little back (before I found out I had this wee beastie growing in me ) this time to go into a Fractal Design Midi Case which I have planned for a Review & Build log not just of the Case but a lot of the gear going into it







... I think all that need for this is pretty in hand, In that I have already bought all the XSPC Rads, Got the acrylic tubing/fittings, already bought the M/B, CPU, GPU & Blocks, SSd's drives e.t.c e.t.c...

I am waiting on XSPC fans for the Fractal but that's in hand and is a PSU (fingers crossed







).. I think I'm OK for a D5 pump for this (would have liked a AC USB D5) but couldn't stretch to that this time, but think I have old one kicking around.. Think being the operative word here hehe... I have enough AQ gear that I can scavenge from the old review case build I began with (I bough a 900D case a while back & have only just recently got it up & running as my review case for doing all my reviews/testing in).... This Fractal Build log I have planned will also cover & give me more scope to do more AQ Guides as regards to connecting & setting up a few things in a more easy to follow screen shot & narrative walk through some of the menu's e.t.c (was a reason I needed a second AQ6 as the XT AQ6 is being used in the 900D review case running some fluid stress runs e.t.c)..... Anyaway.. I'm rambling again, I'm sorry







... I sometimes get carried away as I get quite excited at times with what I have planned & hope to have time to finish







.

So again many many thanks for your over & above offer to help out with some equipment for my needs.. It really is an outstanding offer Gabriel.. Cheers









Cheers again to all of you that have popped over to the ST forums or here







... Surely I can't help but beat this thing with all the outstanding support I've had from so many of you that have only come across me in my little AQ review/guides thingies....... It's fantastic to see I may have helped a few to get there heads around things with what is a amazing piece of kit... But not lets forget the Aquasuite software.. this is the key really to this great range that Ac have going on, I have enjoyed doing the reviews & guides very much (even though It's worked out quite expensive at times







..) & it's great to get some feed back on what I've been doing..

Thanks to you all for your views & support *& long may it continue* God willing, my determination & all of your great best wishes & support
















N.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Their rads and blocks are great but they have had some criticism regarding bay res,the acrylic versions have leaked before and the black (ABS if i recall) versions had top issues with warping. First time for a top problem tho.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Their rads seem ok, having never used one, I can't speak to the quality on them personally, but I've had several of their blocks, pump tops, and reservoirs, I can honestly say I won't use anything from them save for rads at this point.
> 
> @skupples do you mean that people got mad at you for saying that XSPC was low quality?


Never used the newer XSPC bayres's to have an opinion on, But have & do use their Rads & Tis very much true that their Rads are very much right up there with the best, not just for performance but also very much the build quality is second to none







.......... True story









N.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexusforce*
> 
> Thanks and yea I had the same concern about putting the pump & res there. I saw others put it there in there builds for ease I suppose. I might change to the other chamber, just would have to plan the loop out. I felt the same about the drain line but since I had forgotten to order a T-fitting for an inline drain on the back, I just went ahead an added that make shift drain on the GPU block, I tested it by draining the loop and it works okay with a little effort. Oh and yea the coolant is Mayhems Pastel: Blueberry.


I had the same Case ^^



And one possible Option for Tubing...



Then you can put the T-fitting backside to the pump for the inline drain...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Is it a crack?
> If so then some weld-on wicking solvent should weld the gap up.




The left one has been compromised, & yeah it seems their acrylic welding agent failed, only problem is that I have it completely gummed up w/ SEAL ALL, Epoxy, & PVC glue, yet it is STILL dripping, & i'm pretty sure ripping all that stuff off would just rip the whole piece of acrylic out.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Their rads seem ok, having never used one, I can't speak to the quality on them personally, but I've had several of their blocks, pump tops, and reservoirs, I can honestly say I won't use anything from them save for rads at this point.
> 
> @skupples do you mean that people got mad at you for saying that XSPC was low quality?


Yes.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> hi mate..
> here some pictures of my dual loop build but using old school hardware only.. hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure with one look better..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> picture for loop 1.. (Pump+Res>cpu>ram>Rad)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> loop A
> 
> 
> loop B
> 
> 
> loop C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop 2 (Pump+Res>dual gpu>Rad)
> still in progerss.. looking for best loop line


Of those, I like B


----------



## skupples

had to throw in the towel w/ patching the XSPC block. I was able to pull off all of the E220 putty, but it seems the crack just keeps growing. I could probably fix it pretty easily with that acrylic weld/solvent stuff, but its too late, the thing is a total eyesore with all of the SEAL ALL & epoxy on it. SOOoooooo, I had to stick the stock MCP35x2 top back on it for now. Will evaluate what my plan of action will be during next week.


----------



## wermad

Sell one pump and stick with two for now (says the man with *one* ddc running his entire loop







).


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> (says the man with *one* ddc running his entire loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


This is what I'm planning as well with a 35x and am hoping it flows well enough. cpu/gpu/gpu/motherboard blocks, 120mm/140mm/280mm/280mm rads and then trying to keep runs as short as possible, but there's going to be a good amount of 90's in there.

*EDIT*

Little side note here. I had purchased an xspc top for my 35x and was not happy at all. Machinework and qc seemed subpar (have 2 cheap chinese waterblocks with better craftmanship).

I returned that top for a bitspower and was much more impressed.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> This is what I'm planning as well with a 35x and am hoping it flows well enough. cpu/gpu/gpu/motherboard blocks, 120mm/140mm/280mm/280mm rads and then trying to keep runs as short as possible, but there's going to be a good amount of 90's in there.
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> Little side note here. I had purchased an xspc top for my 35x and was not happy at all. Machinework and qc seemed subpar (have 2 cheap chinese waterblocks with better craftmanship).
> 
> I returned that top for a bitspower and was much more impressed.


The machining on the XSPC 35x tops is definitely sub par. The impeller cut outs are literally just big holes. No smooth edges, just flat 90 degree angle .5 inch deep hole.

I'm probably going to go with the Aquacomputer top this time around.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> This is what I'm planning as well with a 35x and am hoping it flows well enough. cpu/gpu/gpu/motherboard blocks, 120mm/140mm/280mm/280mm rads and then trying to keep runs as short as possible, but there's going to be a good amount of 90's in there.
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> Little side note here. I had purchased an xspc top for my 35x and was not happy at all. Machinework and qc seemed subpar (have 2 cheap chinese waterblocks with better craftmanship).
> 
> I returned that top for a bitspower and was much more impressed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The machining on the XSPC 35x tops is definitely sub par.* The impeller cut outs are literally just big holes. No smooth edges, just flat 90 degree angle .5 inch deep hole.
> 
> I'm probably going to go with the Aquacomputer top this time around.
Click to expand...

Pretty much all DDC tops are the same...









XSPC are no different.


----------



## skupples




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> This is what I'm planning as well with a 35x and am hoping it flows well enough. cpu/gpu/gpu/motherboard blocks, 120mm/140mm/280mm/280mm rads and then trying to keep runs as short as possible, but there's going to be a good amount of 90's in there.


I have mine pushing through: UT60 560> UT60 560> GPU>GPU>GPU>GPU>RAM>CPU>VRM>PCH>RAM>UT60 280> UT60 280> UT60 420> RES. It does have an EK csq top and heatsink/housing kit w/ rubber pegs.

Its acting up but its done this before. For some strange reason, once every six months or so, its hesitant in starting up. Its done this a few times already since I've owned it. Then, it just works as normal. Not sure if the summer heat is lending to it or the colder winter days. Or maybe that its not hooked up to a pwm setup (







).

I'm already planning a replacement if it decides to go. So I have a couple of avenues I can go with if this guy finally gives up. But I think it still wants to keep going









Things are pretty cool at the moment; the primary gpu is ~29c and the others are ~26-27 (ambient ~23-24c) while typing this. If I can muster the effort, may fire up some games while its a bit chilly in SoCal right now







.


----------



## Jimhans1

May be chilly down in SD, but here in the IE I'm sweating my gonads off.


----------



## Ragsters

I have been on this forum for a while now and am constantly on this thread. I am pretty sure this is the first time I have posted a picture here so be nice.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The machining on the XSPC 35x tops is definitely sub par. The impeller cut outs are literally just big holes. No smooth edges, just flat 90 degree angle .5 inch deep hole.
> 
> I'm probably going to go with the Aquacomputer top this time around.


It wasnt really the shape that was off on mine simply the recess for the impeller itself was out of round. I could have literally done a much better job with a dremel and a piece of acrylic. It was probably a qc issue, but I was not impressed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have mine pushing through: UT60 560> UT60 560> GPU>GPU>GPU>GPU>RAM>CPU>VRM>PCH>RAM>UT60 280> UT60 280> UT60 420> RES. It does have an EK csq top and heatsink/housing kit w/ rubber pegs.
> 
> Its acting up but its done this before. For some strange reason, once every six months or so, its hesitant in starting up. Its done this a few times already since I've owned it. Then, it just works as normal. Not sure if the summer heat is lending to it or the colder winter days. Or maybe that its not hooked up to a pwm setup (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I'm already planning a replacement if it decides to go. So I have a couple of avenues I can go with if this guy finally gives up. But I think it still wants to keep going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things are pretty cool at the moment; the primary gpu is ~29c and the others are ~26-27 (ambient ~23-24c) while typing this. If I can muster the effort, may fire up some games while its a bit chilly in SoCal right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Will you be replacing another ddc if it goes or a D5? I personally dont have the room, so a 35x must do the job. lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have been on this forum for a while now and am constantly on this thread. I am pretty sure this is the first time I have posted a picture here so be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks real good. The clear tubes/water and chrome have a sort of futuristic sanitary look to it.







maybe a *********** supply and fan frame?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The machining on the XSPC 35x tops is definitely sub par. The impeller cut outs are literally just big holes. No smooth edges, just flat 90 degree angle .5 inch deep hole.
> 
> I'm probably going to go with the Aquacomputer top this time around.
> 
> 
> 
> It wasnt really the shape that was off on mine simply the recess for the impeller itself was out of round. I could have literally done a much better job with a dremel and a piece of acrylic. It was probably a qc issue, but I was not impressed.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have mine pushing through: UT60 560> UT60 560> GPU>GPU>GPU>GPU>RAM>CPU>VRM>PCH>RAM>UT60 280> UT60 280> UT60 420> RES. It does have an EK csq top and heatsink/housing kit w/ rubber pegs.
> 
> Its acting up but its done this before. For some strange reason, once every six months or so, its hesitant in starting up. Its done this a few times already since I've owned it. Then, it just works as normal. Not sure if the summer heat is lending to it or the colder winter days. Or maybe that its not hooked up to a pwm setup (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I'm already planning a replacement if it decides to go. So I have a couple of avenues I can go with if this guy finally gives up. But I think it still wants to keep going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things are pretty cool at the moment; the primary gpu is ~29c and the others are ~26-27 (ambient ~23-24c) while typing this. If I can muster the effort, may fire up some games while its a bit chilly in SoCal right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Will you be replacing another ddc if it goes or a D5? I personally dont have the room, so a 35x must do the job. lol
Click to expand...

There is a small bulge on the outlet that brings the wall closer to the impeller to direct more flow into it. You didnt remove that did you? That is supposed to be there.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> That looks real good. The clear tubes/water and chrome have a sort of futuristic sanitary look to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe a *********** supply and fan frame?


I'd love to get my hands on a Leadex Platinum.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a small bulge on the outlet that brings the wall closer to the impeller to direct more flow into it. You didnt remove that did you? That is supposed to be there.


No I did not. I know that was supposed to be there or else the flow would not build speed and be focused out the outlet. Like I said my issue was more a qc issue. Instead of a nice smooth radius that increased in distance from the impeller it was rather wavy and marred. As if the acrylic came slightly loose during manufacture or possibly bad tooling at the time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I'd love to get my hands on a Leadex Platinum.


vinyl


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have been on this forum for a while now and am constantly on this thread. I am pretty sure this is the first time I have posted a picture here so be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it! nice and clean.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have been on this forum for a while now and am constantly on this thread. I am pretty sure this is the first time I have posted a picture here so be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it even more now that there isn't a huge extension in place for the return line


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I'd love to get my hands on a Leadex Platinum.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> vinyl


Or paint a 1300g2. Just won't get the fancy light up connectors...


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I like it even more now that there isn't a huge extension in place for the return line


That was my biggest accomplishment since the last time I posted my rig.


----------



## skupples

Nope. I'm not throwing in the towel. I'm going to get a 4th DDC with 2x if the Acomp tops. Going to push for 600+ LPH. I've lost 150lh dropping one pump. Down to 300 from 450.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have been on this forum for a while now and am constantly on this thread. I am pretty sure this is the first time I have posted a picture here so be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean,love it....


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Nice and clean,love it....


Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> May be chilly down in SD, but here in the IE I'm sweating my gonads off.


Lol, its been a bit chilly these last few weeks. Almost like early fall weather but its not the scorchers we had a few weeks ago.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Will you be replacing another ddc if it goes or a D5? I personally dont have the room, so a 35x must do the job. lol


Well, I do have the ddc top and housing, so its more practical to get another ddc. But I'm opened to getting a D5 w/ top and dress-up kit.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have been on this forum for a while now and am constantly on this thread. I am pretty sure this is the first time I have posted a picture here so be nice.


That looks really nice. The white case behind the clear res and tubing give it a crystal effect. I dig it!


----------



## szeged

i love the clear + white, i think it would have looked better with out any red, but it still looks nice. Also would have painted the psu white


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i love the clear + white, i think it would have looked better with out any red, but it still looks nice. Also would have painted the psu white


^What I was thinking. Looks great nonetheless.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That looks really nice. The white case behind the clear res and tubing give it a crystal effect. I dig it!


Thanks! That's the exact look I was going for.


----------



## aaroc

Doing pre submersion testing, new cpu, ram and mobo. U can see the WC parts on the lower level.
After working 2 weeks abroad is nice to be back home with my family and got some free time one night this weekend to assemble the PC to start testing.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Can anyone recommend a place to get nickel plating done for a decent price. I'd like to do nickel plated tube and some nickel plated heatsinks. North America preferred, Canada is even better. All the shops I've emailed have ignored my emails so far.


----------



## Wolfsbora

I had a friend of mine order from this place. They offer DIY kits if that is an option you'd be willing to go.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> 
> Doing pre submersion testing, new cpu, ram and mobo. U can see the WC parts on the lower level.
> After working 2 weeks abroad is nice to be back home with my family and got some free time one night this weekend to assemble the PC to start testing.


[email protected]$$ looking bench


----------



## agung79

Just sharing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have been on this forum for a while now and am constantly on this thread. I am pretty sure this is the first time I have posted a picture here so be nice.


oh gods.... like i sexy lady with a red lips, white soft skin and black hair....


----------



## Jeronbernal

Some new contributions, 250d on pause. Waiting for a new mobo -__-


----------



## Roxycon

Why is it that some recent bitspower fittings have IV markings under the dragon/seahorse/tribal logo?


----------



## Hefner

My compact splash with real glass side panel


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My compact splash with real glass side panel


Looks good,would love to see some internal pics....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

16mm Bitspower acrylic fittings.





And a 760 block.


----------



## Majentrix

Got any photos from LANs?
If so, post 'em!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 16mm Bitspower acrylic fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a 760 block.


That block...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Hopefully a smoked black one should be incoming.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hopefully a smoked black one should be incoming.


I'm just ecstatic to see a major manufacturing company produce a water block exclusively for the 760. May not benefit me but still cool!


----------



## Hefner

That has to be the prettiest block I have ever seen. The branding makes me kind of sad though.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> That has to be the prettiest block I have ever seen. The branding makes me kind of sad though.


What's wrong with something telling you who made it?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> What's wrong with something telling you who made it?


It should be small and in the corner. Not covering the best part of the block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> What's wrong with something telling you who made it?
> 
> 
> 
> It should be small and in the corner. Not covering the best part of the block.
Click to expand...

This.
Less is more.


----------



## Hefner

Exactly. If they would remove the big branding in the middle then it would be perfect since there is already a branding on the left side. But that's just me, to each his own I guess. And regardless it is a very pretty block.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It should be small and in the corner. Not covering the best part of the block.


I totally agree that it should be scaled down considerably. They've been notorious for "over branding" with large, and sometimes intrusive logos on their products for years. That block is a prime example of ruining a well designed product with the company's very distracting "brand recognition".

It's one thing if they're not a well know entity in the market, but c'mon... They're practically at the top of the water cooling food chain aside from EKWB, and their unique product designs speaks in volumes. If people really like it, they'll go out of their way to find out who makes it. It's just that simple.


----------



## Pimphare

Well for those who aren't using a pcie riser or a reverse atx case, it shouldn't be a problem I wouldn't think. With that said, I wonder how hard it would be to remove the larger intrusive logo without damaging the clear finish. Has anyone here done this before?









Edit: Or is it etched into the block?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Using a flat surface, various grades of sandpaper, acrylic polish and a polishing rag - it can be sanded out, depending on how deep the etching is.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Using a flat surface, various grades of sandpaper, acrylic polish and a polishing rag - it can be sanded out, depending on how deep the etching is.


Its ablated deep,more than a simple sand away....My impact block has the model number right thru the middle...


----------



## Hefner

Model number? What were they thinking? Dat shiny block though


----------



## Kimir

Yup, not a fan of those big model name right in the middle and in big letters.


----------



## waveaddict

@ProfeZZor X your avatar is very disturbing.

Nice to see another 760 block though,is bitspower and watercool the only 760 blocks?



EDIT: Just remembered the AC Nexxos 760 which is ugly as sin.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> @ProfeZZor X your avatar is very disturbing.
> 
> Nice to see another 760 block though,is bitspower and watercool the only 760 blocks?


The Bitspower 760 block that B Neg posted a pic of looks like it'll only work on MSI's Twin Frozr 760.

The watercool heatkiller block you have pictured only works on reference 760s, which have a short 6" PCB identical to the GTX 670, so GTX 670 blocks from EK and XSPC, etc also fit short PCB reference 760s, as will that Heatkiller 760 block also work on a reference 670. Here's a list of reference 670s and 760s (PDF) - all those shown with green beside them.

Alphacool makes a 760 block that's only compatible with a trio of non-reference long PCB EVGA 760s:
EVGA GTX 760 2GB ( 02G-P4-2762-KR)
EVGA GTX 760 FTW ACX Cooler 4GB (04G-P4-3768)
EVGA GTX 760 Superclocked ACX Cooler 2GB (02G-P4-2765)

And that should cover all there is (so far) for full cover blocks for the GTX 760.


----------



## Blackops_2

So making the switch to acrylic for my upcoming build, looking around you can use primochill revolver fittings with bitspower male to female adapters, extensions, etc.?


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Bitspower 760 block that B Neg posted a pic of looks like it'll only work on MSI's Twin Frozr 760.
> 
> The watercool heatkiller block you have pictured only works on reference 760s, which have a short 6" PCB identical to the GTX 670, so GTX 670 blocks from EK and XSPC, etc also fit short PCB reference 760s, as will that Heatkiller 760 block also work on a reference 670. Here's a list of reference 670s and 760s (PDF) - all those shown with green beside them.
> 
> Alphacool makes a 760 block that's only compatible with a trio of non-reference long PCB EVGA 760s:
> EVGA GTX 760 2GB ( 02G-P4-2762-KR)
> EVGA GTX 760 FTW ACX Cooler 4GB (04G-P4-3768)
> EVGA GTX 760 Superclocked ACX Cooler 2GB (02G-P4-2765)
> 
> And that should cover all there is (so far) for full cover blocks for the GTX 760.


Thanks + rep


----------



## Gabrielzm

Have anyone used this:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2284

Sounds like a great idea for a fillport but I would like to see some photos and hear any experience anyone might have with it.

Along the same line did anyone have used this one:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2453

care to share impressions?

cheers


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So making the switch to acrylic for my upcoming build, looking around you can use primochill revolver fittings with bitspower male to female adapters, extensions, etc.?


If you mean putting the extension behind the revolver fitting, then *yes*. G1/4 threads is pretty much the univeral thread that all of the water cooling companies are using these days.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> If you mean putting the extension behind the revolver fitting, then *yes*. G1/4 threads is pretty much the univeral thread that all of the water cooling companies are using these days.


Yes that was my question. I just RMAed my advanced LRT & all the fittings i had for it to make the switch to acrylic, but kept the triple 90 degree rotary and a T fitting.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Yes that was my question. I just RMAed my advanced LRT & all the fittings i had for it to make the switch to acrylic, but kept the triple 90 degree rotary and a T fitting.


They allowed you to do the store credit??







As @Pimphare said, the Bitspower 90 degree rotary definitely uses G1/4, I just checked mine.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> They allowed you to do the store credit??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As @Pimphare said, the Bitspower 90 degree rotary definitely uses G1/4, I just checked mine.


Yup allowed store credit


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So making the switch to acrylic for my upcoming build, looking around you can use primochill revolver fittings with bitspower male to female adapters, extensions, etc.?


If you use bitspower extensions with revolver fittings they will cause a leak between the extension and the fitting because the extension doesn't fully cover where the o-ring compresses against the component. Thats because the component is flat and the extension isnt wide enough. Bitspower makes low profile fittings and primochill makes wide larger fittings. The only extensions I found to work with revolver fittings are Enzotech extensions or xspc rotary fittings.


----------



## Pimphare

Well I ordered a couple of 90° Monsoon rotary fittings for my primochill ghost fittings to go on. I hope there isn't an issue between the two.

Edit: I believe Primochill needs to make some angled and rotary fittings without any question of compatibility. I guess they expect bends in the tubing to be the answer which doesn't always hold true.


----------



## lowfat

I can honestly saw I have used Bitspower extensions and Primochill acrylic fittings w/o any issue.


----------



## 161029

Didn't want to make another thread for this but is the 120/140mm radiator per component + a single 120/140mm for buffer rule becoming outdated? Just curious since hardware is starting to become more and more efficient and run cooler (well, supposedly) so I'm wondering if the need for that extra 120/140mm at the end is still necessary.


----------



## Blackspots

Ok, I want to verify that the EK GTX 760 waterblock will work with the PNY VCGGTX7602XPB-OC GeForce GTX 760 (it shows the non-OC version on EK's website, so I figure it might work, but I want to make sure)


----------



## Kimir

Some contribution. I haven't posted the rig filled yet, so here goes. Night crappy shot


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I can honestly saw I have used Bitspower extensions and Primochill acrylic fittings w/o any issue.


The revolver ones? I've actually seen a couple of build using revolver fittings with bitspower extension, specifically Erayser's
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Didn't want to make another thread for this but is the 120/140mm radiator per component + a single 120/140mm for buffer rule becoming outdated? Just curious since hardware is starting to become more and more efficient and run cooler (well, supposedly) so I'm wondering if the need for that extra 120/140mm at the end is still necessary.


I think that is dependent on rad surface and fan speed your looking at. I had initially planned on a MCP320 and an EK 120xt for a 3770k & 2x 780 Classy's, knew once i got the second 780 that it wouldn't be enough to match it. Especially since i'm running low RPM sp120s so i'm upping my rad capacity to 120x9. 360 up top, 360 below, 240 below, and a 120 on the exhaust.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> The revolver ones? I've actually seen a couple of build using revolver fittings with bitspower extension, specifically Erayser's


Using the original style. But I am pretty sure the center part of the fittings is exactly the same. Just a 'lower profile' compression ring.


----------



## Jeronbernal

I have like $3000 worth of fittings, blocks res's and rads etc. I need to sell -_- anyone know of a ideal place to get rid of them? Don't even really care if I get rid of them cheap or what not. I'm not able to use the marketplace yet, and really have no idea what to do with all of it, I went on a z87 spree, and kept trying different form factors and now I'm just stuck with alot of this stuff lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> If you use bitspower extensions with revolver fittings they will cause a leak between the extension and the fitting because the extension doesn't fully cover where the o-ring compresses against the component. Thats because the component is flat and the extension isnt wide enough. Bitspower makes low profile fittings and primochill makes wide larger fittings. The only extensions I found to work with revolver fittings are Enzotech extensions or xspc rotary fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> I can honestly saw I have used Bitspower extensions and Primochill acrylic fittings w/o any issue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The revolver ones? I've actually seen a couple of build using revolver fittings with bitspower extension, specifically Erayser's [...]
Click to expand...

Yeah I've used Bitspower extensions and rotaries with Primochill Ghost and Revolver rigid compressions without any trouble with leaks.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I've used Bitspower extensions and rotaries with Primochill Ghost and Revolver rigid compressions without any trouble with leaks.


Glad to hear it! Thanks


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Ok, I want to verify that the EK GTX 760 waterblock will work with the PNY VCGGTX7602XPB-OC GeForce GTX 760 (it shows the non-OC version on EK's website, so I figure it might work, but I want to make sure)


Not sure yet. I'm on my phone right now so it's hard to tell. I'll have to wait til I get home in a few to get a better look on the laptop. In the meantime lets move this to the GTX 760 Owners Club thread. You'll get more action there.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1403674/official-nvidia-gtx-760-owners-club/5190#post_22321154


----------



## Jimhans1

The only Bitspower m/f extension I had an issue with was the tiniest one (5mm?) as it's female threaded area wasn't deep enough for the long threads on the standard and revolver primochills, but all of the longer Bitspower extensions worked just fine for me.


----------



## Majentrix

Are Alphacool fittings all this poorly made?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> 
> 
> Are Alphacool fittings all this poorly made?


In my experience: YES.

I had an Alphacool male-to-male rotary burst on me at the rotary seal and cause coolant to get all over. The other few "impossible-to-screw-up" fittings of Alphacool that I have, a T-Block and a male-to-male LP fitting have pretty awful finishes that scratch and wear easily.

I've learned my lesson. Not going to make the same mistake going with their garbage a fourth time.


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Some contribution. I haven't posted the rig filled yet, so here goes. Night crappy shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work, very handy with all the quick disconnects. Love the norprene tubing.
Some minor detail critic: sleeving the front panel connectors, switch blue SATA cable with a black one, painting the optical drive casing black, larger res wouldve been nice.
I've had to use some bigger heatshrink and widen it with a plier to fit over the front panel connectors, but it works.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Nice work, very handy with all the quick disconnects. Love the norprene tubing.
> Some minor detail critic: sleeving the front panel connectors, switch blue SATA cable with a black one, painting the optical drive casing black, larger res wouldve been nice.
> I've had to use some bigger heatshrink and widen it with a plier to fit over the front panel connectors, but it works.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks.
Love the QDC, I've had a leak when filled it all at the first time (on the lower port of graphic cards) and just had to unplug the cards from the loop and fix it, so useful!
If I want to remove the motherboard tray from the case, same thing, pop-pop the QDC and unplug the wire. Also quite useful to fill the loop.
I too love the norprene and black matte finish.
Black sata cable is on it's way, someone else told me that earlier too but couldn't find one at work long enough other than that one. Had to buy one.








Sleeving the front panel cables, that's me being lazy (same for the bluray drive painting) and after months of waiting for equipment I wanted the rig powered up. I'm not a fan of big reservoir myself.
Thanks for the input.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are Alphacool fittings all this poorly made?


Ohhh myyy...

Lol, looks like they plasti-dipped the hell out of it. That's sooooo bad looking.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Ohhh myyy...
> 
> Lol, looks like they plasti-dipped the hell out of it. That's sooooo bad looking.


Heck, even Plasti-Dip looks better than that


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Heck, even Plasti-Dip looks better than that


Haha









I will never buy an Alphacool/Phobya product. Other brands are just flat out worth more, if not double, the money.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are Alphacool fittings all this poorly made?
> 
> 
> 
> Ohhh myyy...
> 
> Lol, looks like they plasti-dipped the hell out of it. That's sooooo bad looking.
Click to expand...

The finishes of Alphastool fittings don't even match,the elbows are a gloss finish,the compressions are a nasty passivated finish....both are poor quality.
Budget junk all round tbh.


----------



## Jeronbernal

goodbye z87 hello computex, and hello z97


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> 
> 
> Are Alphacool fittings all this poorly made?


"Hint" . . . . It's not just their fittings . . .









I don't refer to it as Alpha*stool* for nothing

D.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ...Alpha*stool*...
> 
> D.


HAHAHAHA, I lost it just now.

I only own one thing they make, and have no problems with them... A pump mount, as my case is a little tight on space.. There is another on the way... I just had to throw one little







out for them while they take a beating  That is all.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

*Question:*

I am running EK Koolant (I know, everyone suggests distilled water and a kill coil) and I would like to flush the full system as I added Green to it, and would like to go Blue instead.... Should I run distilled water to flush out the green traces and then re-add clear EK Koolant with blue drops? I am just trying to find the best way to clean everything out before I start to tear everything down, and since I am TERRIBLE about asking the experts, I figure I better get it out before I get impatient and starting stripping the system.

P.S. I have no issues removing the RADs and rinsing them out. If I can avoid that, I will though, lol.


----------



## skupples

I onlynuse alphacool in the nether regions of my cases and ONLY the non rotary extensions... I've had a few of the m/m rotary 90s go pop. The joints are just so weak, yet they don't get nasty and crusty like swiftech fittings do.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> "Hint" . . . . It's not just their fittings . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't refer to it as Alpha*stool* for nothing
> 
> D.


Your comments on Alphacool have made me think about my pump/resevoir upgrade plans. I was planning to get the Alphacool Repack Dual 5.25" Acrylic Reservoir - Clear - w/ D5 Variant Pump Installed from Frozen CPU but would the Monsoon Series Two Premium D5/MCP655 Dual Bay Reservoir w/Quick Change LED Control - Matte Black w/Red Trim be a better quality item to purchase?


----------



## szeged

Alphacool rads are also a freaking nightmare to use.....never again. Once these die on me or I destroy them....never again.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Alphacool rads are also a freaking nightmare to use.....never again. Once these die on me or I destroy them....never again.


No issues here.


----------



## szeged

I had to go through hell and back to get my monstas to not suck major ass.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I had to go through hell and back to get my monstas to not suck major ass.


Careful,we don't want another Wermad tirade.....
You guys can say Alphatool are crap,im not allowed apparently.

They are crap tho,no lie,the only thing that have going for them are the HF tops,which are pretty good.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Using the original style. But I am pretty sure the center part of the fittings is exactly the same. Just a 'lower profile' compression ring.


Yeah, pretty sure the bases are the same, just the compression sleeve has the taper on the revolver


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Careful,we don't want another Wermad tirade.....
> You guys can say Alphatool are crap,im not allowed apparently.
> 
> They are crap tho,no lie,the only thing that have going for them are the HF tops,which are pretty good.


Man, all I've bought are Alphacool rads... Where were you when I needed you, B Neg?? Aren't you supposed to be able to read my mind and slap some sense into my brain when needed?!?!







Obviously kidding, I hope that they will work for me since they are out of the return policy now...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Careful,we don't want another Wermad tirade.....
> You guys can say Alphatool are crap,im not allowed apparently.
> 
> They are crap tho,no lie,the only thing that have going for them are the HF tops,which are pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> Man, all I've bought are Alphacool rads... Where were you when I needed you, B Neg?? Aren't you supposed to be able to read my mind and slap some sense into my brain when needed?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously kidding, I hope that they will work for me since they are out of the return policy now...
Click to expand...

My dislike of Poopier/Alphatool is well documented.

'fear it' indeed.....

Your rads will be fine if they arrived intact and still rad shaped,remember to clean them out tho....


----------



## Majentrix

I was under the impression that Phobya rebranded Alphacool rads under their own name.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My dislike of Poopier/Alphatool is well documented.
> 
> 'fear it' indeed.....
> 
> Your rads will be fine if they arrived intact and still rad shaped,remember to clean them out tho....


I remember very early on in my time here reading a post of yours about how badly they need cleaned out. The rads are all straight, including the fins. The paint is also unscathed. What is the preferred method of cleaning those specific rads? Just water + distilled water? Water/vinegar + distilled water? Or using a pre-made rad cleaning solution?


----------



## gdubc

For what it's worth all my alphacool rads look to be in perfect condition on arrival (haven't installed them yet though).

One of three EK xtx360s I ordered on the other hand has a broken weld on one of the ends/frame. It will work and is an easy enough fix but still annoying....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My dislike of Poopier/Alphatool is well documented.
> 
> 'fear it' indeed.....
> 
> Your rads will be fine if they arrived intact and still rad shaped,remember to clean them out tho....
> 
> 
> 
> I remember very early on in my time here reading a post of yours about how badly they need cleaned out. The rads are all straight, including the fins. The paint is also unscathed. What is the preferred method of cleaning those specific rads? Just water + distilled water? Water/vinegar + distilled water? Or using a pre-made rad cleaning solution?
Click to expand...

Depends on your coolant.
Mick demands some pretty extreme measures for his coolant. Personally,a hot water flush and distilled rinse is enough for me. I would go to town on them tho,multiple flushes and rinses are in order.
I do not recommend acid washes,other may do so and that's up to them but I do not.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Depends on your coolant.
> Mick demands some pretty extreme measures for his coolant. Personally,a hot water flush and distilled rinse is enough for me. I would go to town on them tho,multiple flushes and rinses are in order.
> I do not recommend acid washes,other may do so and that's up to them but I do not.


Ok, I definitely would prefer to do the hot water approach. Acids and metals aren't always the greatest combo. I'll do a ton of flushes since I'm pretty anal about this stuff. It takes me forever to hand wash dishes because I can be so meticulous.









+1 for always helping!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Depends on your coolant.
> Mick demands some pretty extreme measures for his coolant. Personally,a hot water flush and distilled rinse is enough for me. I would go to town on them tho,multiple flushes and rinses are in order.
> I do not recommend acid washes,other may do so and that's up to them but I do not.


I am with you there. The only acid I would ever use, and I may well end up trying on a Phobya G-Changer 120 to minimize any potential losses, would be a dilute phosphoric acid.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Phosphoric acid doesn't oxidise metals easily,that is a good choice but for me,I think its unnecessary. Rad flux is water based,acids will not remove it any better than water will.

However,Mick has insisted that rads need an acid flush for his coolants. That's one out of all the coolant manufacturers,the rest do not require such measures.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> *Question:*
> 
> I am running EK Koolant (I know, everyone suggests distilled water and a kill coil) and I would like to flush the full system as I added Green to it, and would like to go Blue instead.... Should I run distilled water to flush out the green traces and then re-add clear EK Koolant with blue drops? I am just trying to find the best way to clean everything out before I start to tear everything down, and since I am TERRIBLE about asking the experts, I figure I better get it out before I get impatient and starting stripping the system.
> 
> P.S. I have no issues removing the RADs and rinsing them out. If I can avoid that, I will though, lol.


Yes, flush with distilled.
Or flush with tap water and then flush that with distilled.


----------



## VSG

Well, I tried out water (hot, DI, multiple flushes) on an Alphacool Monsta 480 before and, while my blocks and coolant remained fine, a bitspower temperature sensor stop plug has had its nickel coating corroded off. I can't rule out other factors yet, so I won't blame Alphacool just yet.


----------



## MeanBruce

Waited 2months for this little G1/4 end plug to arrive back in stock at Frozen, PPCS still does not have any seems RED is the most popular color.









Performance is also OOS with the Monsoon 90degree rotaries in matte black, just my luck the last three water parts I need to complete the loop, live right next door to a major supplier of parts and have to order from Rochester New York, sheeesh.

Thought PPCS had a strong relationship with Monsoon, Mod My Toys and all, but still out of stock on Monsoon parts.

So hope I'm not overdoing the red accents too darn much, don't want to look like I'm trying to hard.










http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7874_zpsc667442e.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7875_zpse337ead5.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7878_zps09dae8cf.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7879_zpsf6b1aa59.jpg.html


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Depends on your coolant.
> Mick demands some pretty extreme measures for his coolant. Personally,a hot water flush and distilled rinse is enough for me. I would go to town on them tho,multiple flushes and rinses are in order.
> I do not recommend acid washes,other may do so and that's up to them but I do not.


What? You mean I shouldn't use pure vinegar to flush my rada and blocks? But.. But... Cynicalcyanide told me to! Cuz cutting and machine grease.

As you well know... PPC is literally next door to ModMyToys. I've even wondered if they are partial owners...


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well, I tried out water (hot, DI, multiple flushes) on an Alphacool Monsta 480 before and, while my blocks and coolant remained fine, a bitspower temperature sensor stop plug has had its nickel coating corroded off. I can't rule out other factors yet, so I won't blame Alphacool just yet.


Mine too, after only ~6months of use. I think its just a crappy coating job.

I am running just distilled and a tiny dose of PTNuke (literally like 2 drops in a huge loop). No signs of algae or corrosion, just the stupid temp probe coating flaked off. Now I have to drain and flush my loop and multiple rads because I know its in there somewhere and it bugs me.


----------



## MeanBruce

I was told 1part white vinegar and 9parts distilled so I mixed up 1000ml (100ml:900ml) that way and flushed the rad last weekend outside in the sunshine.










http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7770_zps59ff7a49.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7774_zpsea668f17.jpg.html

Flushed out a large number of micro particles and one large chunk of copper.





Also found out my rad holds 300milliliters so adding the pump and pump top three short lengths of tubing and the CPU block, guessing another 100mls, the entire loop should only need 400milliliters of EK solution, so less than half the bottle.

woohoo, just saved $7.









...


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Your comments on Alphacool have made me think about my pump/resevoir upgrade plans. I was planning to get the Alphacool Repack Dual 5.25" Acrylic Reservoir - Clear - w/ D5 Variant Pump Installed from Frozen CPU but would the Monsoon Series Two Premium D5/MCP655 Dual Bay Reservoir w/Quick Change LED Control - Matte Black w/Red Trim be a better quality item to purchase?


Anyone have any advice on which of these I should get... anyone?


----------



## sinnedone

I need a little input from you guys about coolant/dyes.

So I,m going to be using a blue as one of my colors. I think clear hard tubing with blue coolant (distilled plus dye?) would look real nice compared to say just running some blue tubing. My blocks and res would be clear acrylic and nickel.

Would I need to be genuinely concerned with staining of components? Is there a specific brand of coolant or possibly dye that can be added to distilled water that would work well and not stain?

Any experiences would be appreciated.


----------



## lowfat

clear acrylic + distiled + dye is IHMO the way to go. Just make sure your radiators are as clean as possible before filling. Pastels can stain nickel. It can be easily polished off but generally requires the blocks to be opened up and cleaned by hand. Since you want to use acrylic then you shouldn't have problems with staining or plasticizer buildup.


----------



## Jeronbernal

that's the one thing i love about acrylic tubing, no staining, i hated flushing my loop, and seeing a tint to the tubing...ickkk!

as for tubing, the only website i know that sells acrylic tubing readily sized for bp c47/enhanced multi links is PPCS's e22 tubing 12mm/10mm, is there any others?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I need a little input from you guys about coolant/dyes.
> 
> So I,m going to be using a blue as one of my colors. I think clear hard tubing with blue coolant (distilled plus dye?) would look real nice compared to say just running some blue tubing. My blocks and res would be clear acrylic and nickel.
> 
> Would I need to be genuinely concerned with staining of components? Is there a specific brand of coolant or possibly dye that can be added to distilled water that would work well and not stain?
> 
> Any experiences would be appreciated.


e22 tubing with blue mayhems! YUMM! then use mayhems blitz kit after to clean the blocks

here's a picture of snef's icy blue angel with blueberry mayhems


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> that's the one thing i love about acrylic tubing, no staining, i hated flushing my loop, and seeing a tint to the tubing...ickkk!
> 
> as for tubing, the only website i know that sells acrylic tubing readily sized for bp c47/enhanced multi links is PPCS's e22 tubing 12mm/10mm, is there any others?


EK HD fits too.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Are you pho cereal? Omgawt didn't know that lol, I though ek was 12.7mm or something


----------



## fnyk

i made a watercooling for a friend and i just wantet to show you guys one of the photos of it

its a cooler master haf x with mods on i hope you guys like it ^^


----------



## skupples

Very clean!


----------



## Cosworth

Hi guys been a while, i need your advice i changed my coolant a couple of months back but i don't know where to take my old coolant and used sysclean fluid for disposal, i live in south wales uk if that helps those needing a general location


----------



## skupples

I hear the sink works well, or the garden.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> Hi guys been a while, i need your advice i changed my coolant a couple of months back but i don't know where to take my old coolant and used sysclean fluid for disposal, i live in south wales uk if that helps those needing a general location


Are you serious?

your sink/drain! there is nothing wrong with it going in there.


----------



## Cosworth

O_O that simple?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> O_O that simple?


yep its that simple lol. at least you were trying to be enviromental friendly


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> O_O that simple?


No its not.

What coolant is it exactly?
Im not saying people dont but pouring coolant down the sink in the UK is a bit of a no no. In the UK,'fresh' (grey) water is separated from 'foul' (toilets etc) for recycling at a treatment plant. They have separate drains.

Ditch it down the toilet but really you should take it to your local tip if it has glycols in it.

Depends how into keeping the environment clean you are tbh.

And yes,I have been known to dump it down the toilet


----------



## Cosworth

lol well i try, tried to recycle my old case back when i originally built this rig too but that didn't work out too cramped. Thanks for the help


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I need a little input from you guys about coolant/dyes.
> 
> So I,m going to be using a blue as one of my colors. I think clear hard tubing with blue coolant (distilled plus dye?) would look real nice compared to say just running some blue tubing. My blocks and res would be clear acrylic and nickel.
> 
> Would I need to be genuinely concerned with staining of components? Is there a specific brand of coolant or possibly dye that can be added to distilled water that would work well and not stain?
> 
> Any experiences would be appreciated.


This is what I use In mine. No problems so far and it's blue already I added 2 drops of dye.


----------



## ginger_nuts

A bit of guidance so helpful people.

I want to change out some of my loop, well actually most of it.

I want to use the *Koolance CPU-380*, on top of my FX-8350, a *Koolance MOSFET block*, and two of their *motherboard blocks* (NB and SB) plus my current Alphacool block on my GTX770.

Currently I have just two ST30 240mm rads, I plan on putting Noctua's NF-F12 fans on them.

Do I *NEED* to add more rads ? Or will what I have be enough ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A bit of guidance so helpful people.
> 
> I want to change out some of my loop, well actually most of it.
> 
> I want to use the *Koolance CPU-380*, on top of my FX-8350, a *Koolance MOSFET block*, and two of their *motherboard blocks* (NB and SB) plus my current Alphacool block on my GTX770.
> 
> Currently I have just two ST30 240mm rads, I plan on putting Noctua's NF-F12 fans on them.
> 
> Do I *NEED* to add more rads ? Or will what I have be enough ?


You will be fine with what you have,it will have a high ish delta tho but rad efficiency is much better with bigger delta's


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A bit of guidance so helpful people.
> 
> I want to change out some of my loop, well actually most of it.
> 
> I want to use the *Koolance CPU-380*, on top of my FX-8350, a *Koolance MOSFET block*, and two of their *motherboard blocks* (NB and SB) plus my current Alphacool block on my GTX770.
> 
> Currently I have just two ST30 240mm rads, I plan on putting Noctua's NF-F12 fans on them.
> 
> Do I *NEED* to add more rads ? Or will what I have be enough ?


I think most will agree that you'll be fine since mobo blocks don't add too much heat to the loop. I would test it with what you have now and if you are unhappy with temps, then add more radiator space.

EDIT: Obviously B Neg agrees since he ninja'd me


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will be fine with what you have,it will have a high ish delta tho but rad efficiency is much better with bigger delta's


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think most will agree that you'll be fine since mobo blocks don't add too much heat to the loop. I would test it with what you have now and if you are unhappy with temps, then add more radiator space.
> 
> EDIT: Obviously B Neg agrees since he ninja'd me


Cheers to you both









It looks like I know what I will be getting myself for my birthday then


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Anyone have any advice on which of these I should get... anyone?


Monsoon all day long.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will be fine with what you have,it will have a high ish delta tho but rad efficiency is much better with bigger delta's
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think most will agree that you'll be fine since mobo blocks don't add too much heat to the loop. I would test it with what you have now and if you are unhappy with temps, then add more radiator space.
> 
> EDIT: Obviously B Neg agrees since he ninja'd me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cheers to you both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I know what I will be getting myself for my birthday then
Click to expand...

Do the FX line get twitchy over 55c like the Phenom II's? Its been a few years since I had the pleasure of team red running the show


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will be fine with what you have,it will have a high ish delta tho but rad efficiency is much better with bigger delta's
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think most will agree that you'll be fine since mobo blocks don't add too much heat to the loop. I would test it with what you have now and if you are unhappy with temps, then add more radiator space.
> 
> EDIT: Obviously B Neg agrees since he ninja'd me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cheers to you both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I know what I will be getting myself for my birthday then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do the FX line get twitchy over 55c like the Phenom II's? Its been a few years since I had the pleasure of team red running the show
Click to expand...

That was claimed by a lot of people when bulldozer came out, but I have reviewed/benched/tried a whole lot of FX chips and not found this to be the case at all. in fact, I have found that 62C is a very conservative upper thermal limit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will be fine with what you have,it will have a high ish delta tho but rad efficiency is much better with bigger delta's
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think most will agree that you'll be fine since mobo blocks don't add too much heat to the loop. I would test it with what you have now and if you are unhappy with temps, then add more radiator space.
> 
> EDIT: Obviously B Neg agrees since he ninja'd me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cheers to you both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I know what I will be getting myself for my birthday then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do the FX line get twitchy over 55c like the Phenom II's? Its been a few years since I had the pleasure of team red running the show
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That was claimed by a lot of people when bulldozer came out, but I have reviewed/benched/tried a whole lot of FX chips and not found this to be the case at all. in fact, I have found that 62C is a very conservative upper thermal limit.
Click to expand...

I didnt have a problem with 55c tbh,62 is a nice overhead tho.
I liked the knowing that a chip would have 'predictable' behaviour at a threshold temp tbh,made OC issues much simpler to trace.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Yeh my reading over the internet shows that 70 Celsius is the "max" core temp.

My UD3 has a MOSFET cooling problem, so I figure replace and water cool everything on the board.

Notjing like a little overkill.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> clear acrylic + distiled + dye is IHMO the way to go. Just make sure your radiators are as clean as possible before filling. Pastels can stain nickel. It can be easily polished off but generally requires the blocks to be opened up and cleaned by hand. Since you want to use acrylic then you shouldn't have problems with staining or plasticizer buildup.


Thank you lowfat. Any dyes that have biocides or anticorrosion in them as well?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> that's the one thing i love about acrylic tubing, no staining, i hated flushing my loop, and seeing a tint to the tubing...ickkk!
> 
> as for tubing, the only website i know that sells acrylic tubing readily sized for bp c47/enhanced multi links is PPCS's e22 tubing 12mm/10mm, is there any others?
> e22 tubing with blue mayhems! YUMM! then use mayhems blitz kit after to clean the blocks
> 
> here's a picture of snef's icy blue angel with blueberry mayhems
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks very nice, but I want to use some monsoon hard line fittings with 3/8id 1/2od clear acrylic tubing. (dont know what brand yet)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> This is what I use In mine. No problems so far and it's blue already I added 2 drops of dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol that's actually around the shade of blue I'm shooting for. A nice royal deep blue. I dont know about the lucas though. If its anything like redlines offering it will be heavy on the glycol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Dye's with Biocides and Anti-Corrosions, might as well just use Mayhem's X1 Premix. That's kinda the point of Premix, it's already done. Get some X1 and some extra dye's if you wanna mess with the color

Edit: Or Pastel if you want. I personally prefer X1 with acrylic


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Dye's with Biocides and Anti-Corrosions, might as well just use Mayhem's X1 Premix. That's kinda the point of Premix, it's already done. Get some X1 and some extra dye's if you wanna mess with the color
> 
> Edit: Or Pastel if you want. I personally prefer X1 with acrylic


But will it have the same heat dissipation properties, and in the end will it be more expensive?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> But will it have the same heat dissipation properties, and in the end will it be more expensive?


Yeah, it won't be nearly as perfect as pure Distilled water, but it'll come within probably a 1C delta to pure distilled. And in the end, it isn't that terribly expensive once you factor in that it already has corrosion inhibitors and biocides already in it. If you went with pure distilled, you'd have to buy it all separate. In fact, I'd say that X1 is the cheaper route.

$12 for X1 (1 Litre)

or

$9 for corrosion inhibitor, $6 for biocide, $3 for distilled water (local grocery store), and $6 for dye.


----------



## VSG

Where are you in Dallas that distilled water costs $3? You should get it for 80-90 cents a gallon easy. The corrosion inhibitor/biocide at those prices should also be plenty for at least a gallon as will be the dye. So the individual route can be easily cheaper.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Where are you in Dallas that distilled water costs $3? You should get it for 80-90 cents a gallon easy. The corrosion inhibitor/biocide at those prices should also be plenty for at least a gallon as will be the dye. So the individual route can be easily cheaper.


Oh, I know it is a $1 here from my local Krogers. I just gave a bit of leeway depending on where he is at.

And yeah, even though you can make 3.7Litres of coolant with a gallon of distilled. By the time you are switching out your coolant if you go the distilled route, chances are you'll have used that distilled elsewhere (I know I've ended up buying a jug of distilled everytime because silly me always ends up wasting the other 2 litres left







).

I guess it all depends on how much coolant your loop needs though in the first place. In some respects, X1 is the cheaper route. Sometimes they are similar in cost. And in other times individually can be cheaper. Just basically depends on how often you change out your coolant and how much you need for your loop.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I didnt have a problem with 55c tbh,62 is a nice overhead tho.
> I liked the knowing that a chip would have 'predictable' behaviour at a threshold temp tbh,made OC issues much simpler to trace.


True, I just had mine at 64c on the core during P95 and it never blinked.


----------



## jleslie246

Ive been running the same fluid for almost 6 months now. Is it time to flush the system? I have acrylic tubing and I am using EK - EKoolant (blood red).

I have a great drain system I am eager to try. Once it is drained, what do I do? Do I need to cycle some vinegar through the loop?

Do i need to take my gpu/cpu blocks apart to clean?

Also, I want to change the color to a 'grape cool-aid' look. Any suggestions?

Thank you


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Ive been running the same fluid for almost 6 months now. Is it time to flush the system? I have acrylic tubing and I am using EK - EKoolant (blood red).
> 
> I have a great drain system I am eager to try. Once it is drained, what do I do? Do I need to cycle some vinegar through the loop?
> 
> Do i need to take my gpu/cpu blocks apart to clean?
> 
> Also, I want to change the color to a 'grape cool-aid' look. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thank you


Probably less necessary in an acrylic loop but maintenance is always good, it's just whether people can be bothered lol.


----------



## lowfat

You shouldn't need to do any maintenance. If you don't notice growth or anything then just keep going IMO.


----------



## Inelastic

I got in another Alphacool UT60 the other week from PPCS with no issues at all. That's the 4th one I've purchased without any problems. I have some of their fittings, which looks like garbage, but the radiators have always been good for me.


----------



## Render33

Hello,

I really enjoy your forum and would be honored to become a member. I get so much inspiration here and love seeing all the creativity. Here is my latest build and first full water loop. I decided to go with a black and red theme. Sorry for the picture quality taken with my iphone.

Cheers!

Specs

CPU: i74770k OC to 4.6ghz

RAM: G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) / DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400

GRAPHICS: EVGA 780ti Classified

MB: Asus Maximus VI Formula

WATER COOLING: RayStorm D5 Photon Kit

GRAPHICS BLOCK: EK EVGA 780ti Classified Block

CASE: Silverstone TJ07

KEYBOARD: Corsair Vengeance K70 Cherry MX

MOUSE: Roccat Kone XTD

MONITOR: BenQ XL2420Z 24-Inch


----------



## Audiophile1178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A bit of guidance so helpful people.
> 
> I want to change out some of my loop, well actually most of it.
> 
> I want to use the *Koolance CPU-380*, on top of my FX-8350, a *Koolance MOSFET block*, and two of their *motherboard blocks* (NB and SB) plus my current Alphacool block on my GTX770.
> 
> Currently I have just two ST30 240mm rads, I plan on putting Noctua's NF-F12 fans on them.
> 
> Do I *NEED* to add more rads ? Or will what I have be enough ?


I have MOST of the blocks that you're talking about except for the CPU (XSPC Raystorm block) and GPU (XSPC 5870 block) on my Gigabyte 990FX-UD5 (rev 3.0) board. My CPU is a 8350 and rad is an XSPC AX480 with Noctua NF-P12's in push/pull at 9v (~1,000rpms). I'm thinking about lowering my fans to 7.5v-8v but am not sure at the moment. I did exactly as what you're thinking and blocked my entire board (NB/SB/VRM's). As far as I'm aware, I'm the ONLY one to have a UD5 board blocked so it was new territory for me. It has been working pretty well and I keep my 8350 OC'd to 4.6GHz for 24/7 use. I recently lapped my chip and waterblock which seems to have worked well for me on lowering temps. With this setup, I rarely see anything higher than 52C before lapping in a room that's normally 75F. Now with it lapped, I believe that the CPU temps will be a fair bit less but it's hard to tell now as it's starting to get hotter here and my little room gets 80F or hotter in the summer when I run this chip as I am doing now. I'm about to do some x264 encoding tonight so I'm curious to see how hot the chip gets in this current room temperature.

FYI, with that VRM block my Package temp ALWAYS matches my CPU temp and NEVER gets any hotter than what the CPU temp is.









BTW, if you're interested I can post some pictures of my lapped blocks reflecting some nice Aussie currency. Man, I miss my Holden...


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Do monsoon do right angled rotary fittings?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Do monsoon do right angled rotary fittings?


Yes they do. They also make them different diameters to match the size of the tubing your using.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank you lowfat. Any dyes that have biocides or anticorrosion in them as well?
> That looks very nice, but I want to use some monsoon hard line fittings with 3/8id 1/2od clear acrylic tubing. (dont know what brand yet)
> Lol that's actually around the shade of blue I'm shooting for. A nice royal deep blue. I dont know about the lucas though. If its anything like redlines offering it will be heavy on the glycol.


i found the MSDS and it looks like its free of ethylene glycol.
http://www.lucasoil.com/images/medialibrary/msds10640.pdf


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> i found the MSDS and it looks like its free of ethylene glycol.
> http://www.lucasoil.com/images/medialibrary/msds10640.pdf


But, a PH of 10.8..... Wonder what that will do over time? I don't know..


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178*
> 
> I have MOST of the blocks that you're talking about except for the CPU (XSPC Raystorm block) and GPU (XSPC 5870 block) on my Gigabyte 990FX-UD5 (rev 3.0) board. My CPU is a 8350 and rad is an XSPC AX480 with Noctua NF-P12's in push/pull at 9v (~1,000rpms). I'm thinking about lowering my fans to 7.5v-8v but am not sure at the moment. I did exactly as what you're thinking and blocked my entire board (NB/SB/VRM's). As far as I'm aware, I'm the ONLY one to have a UD5 board blocked so it was new territory for me. It has been working pretty well and I keep my 8350 OC'd to 4.6GHz for 24/7 use. I recently lapped my chip and waterblock which seems to have worked well for me on lowering temps. With this setup, I rarely see anything higher than 52C before lapping in a room that's normally 75F. Now with it lapped, I believe that the CPU temps will be a fair bit less but it's hard to tell now as it's starting to get hotter here and my little room gets 80F or hotter in the summer when I run this chip as I am doing now. I'm about to do some x264 encoding tonight so I'm curious to see how hot the chip gets in this current room temperature.
> 
> FYI, with that VRM block my Package temp ALWAYS matches my CPU temp and NEVER gets any hotter than what the CPU temp is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, if you're interested I can post some pictures of my lapped blocks reflecting some nice Aussie currency. Man, I miss my Holden...


Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated









Pics would be helpful if you could, I have always been curious with lapping.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> i found the MSDS and it looks like its free of ethylene glycol.
> http://www.lucasoil.com/images/medialibrary/msds10640.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> But, a PH of 10.8..... Wonder what that will do over time? I don't know..
Click to expand...

An Alkaline PH of 10.8 is right at ammonium solution off the shelf. I don't know what that does to various metals

(or what degree) but tap water is about 7.3-7.6 and distilled closer to 7.0.


----------



## mend0k

Anyone with a Frozen-Q dual bay res here?

Looking to get one but I read some of them are prone to leaking while others are good? I really would like it but wouldn't like to flood my room while i'm sleeping D:


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> An Alkaline PH of 10.8 is right at ammonium solution off the shelf. I don't know what that does to various metals
> (or what degree) but tap water is about 7.3-7.6 and distilled closer to 7.0.


if they have such a high PH how can It be Labeled corrosive inhibitor. wonder what property's of each chem combine together to make it inhibit multi metal conflicts.

looking over the MSDS it shows it as clear and mine was very blue

YUP my bad. B-neg


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> An Alkaline PH of 10.8 is right at ammonium solution off the shelf. I don't know what that does to various metals
> (or what degree) but tap water is about 7.3-7.6 and distilled closer to 7.0.
> 
> 
> 
> if they have such a high PH how can It be Labeled corrosive inhibitor. wonder what property's of each chem combine together to make it inhibit multi metal conflicts.
Click to expand...

You are confusing low Ph acid with alkali...


----------



## Devildog83

I don't know if he is confused but I sure am, of course I am most of the time.


----------



## jpetrach

http://www.generalchemical.com/Corrosion-Inhibition.html
.
Sodium nitrite acts as an anodic inhibitor toward ferrous metals by forming a tightly adhering oxide film over the steel, preventing the dissolution of metal at anodic areas. When used in mixed metal systems that may include for instance, copper, brass, or aluminum (as in automobile cooling systems), synergistic additives may be required for complete system protection. Some renewed interest in furthering nitrite use has been spawned from reduction in widespread use of carcinogenic hexavalent chromium-based inhibitors. Loss of protection owing to biological consumption of nitrite has been addressed by use of higher initial concentrations. Sodium nitrite is used in boiler water treatment, as a dip or spray for protection of metals in process and storage, and in concrete.

for short not a long term coolent or good sub for ethylene glycol. I have a relative cheap system so I am not going to change It now but I would stay away.

Sodium Tetraborate borax a cleaner
Sodium Mercaptobenzothiazole corrosion inhibitor in steel. not sure about brass copper alum

Take way info DO NOT USE LUCAS as a long term solution.


----------



## Servos

pH can affect different metals, although acid tends to be more corrosive. In practice it depends on the actual base or acid and the metals in the system.
Ammonia can complex with silver
Sodium hydroxide with aluminum
Mineral acids with steel, copper, zinc in solder, ect

After that things can get even more tricky such as chemical interaction with the oxides of the metal. Take methanol. Normally metal is resistant to methanol however aluminum will show more wear and tear. Methanol doesn't attack the metal directly but does attack the protective oxide coating that aluminum develops (hence giving it good weather-ability). The methanol would consistently allow aluminum to corrode, remove the corrosion, and re-corrode, ect.

So it does take a little bit of research to determine complete compatibility of coolant chemicals to metal.
Back to ammonia complexes with silver, it is concentration/temperature dependent. Something like kill-a-coil should be ok albeit possibly dissolve faster/ deposit on other metals faster when ammonia is present. I suspect that the silver coating would quickly oxidize thus creating a protective coating on the "plated" metal. Chances are though this effect would be minimal.

If anti-corrosion additives are present in your coolant I wouldn't worry too much about high pH in most loops. Copper can be susceptible to high pH in some circumstances but this usually causes corrosion that leads to a protective coating. Low pH conditions tends to attack the oxides and copper: no protective coatings develop thus no way to stop damage.


----------



## The EX1

I have one of their dual bays in one of my computers. Looks really good and I have never had any issues with leaks. I would recommend flushing the unit out a couple times though. Mine had some very tiny pieces of debris in it from them drilling or assembling the res. I didn't find them until they clogged up one of my blocks







.

Here is a short vid showing how I set mine up to flow.


----------



## The EX1

Forgot to post my build.


----------



## VSG

Very nice! What cathode are you using in that FrozenQ res?


----------



## The EX1

Thanks man. That size res needs an 8" cathode. I just took the ends off a cheap Logisys UV cathode and it fit perfectly.


----------



## VSG

I meant the diameter. I got the FrozenQ cathode and the effect from it is in a smaller "cylinder" if you will.


----------



## The EX1

The picture and the glow just makes the cylinder look larger. I am using the same cylinder just a brighter cathode inside of it.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I took at look at the cathode you mentioned and it is likely the increased brightness alone. Thanks!


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I can honestly saw I have used Bitspower extensions and Primochill acrylic fittings w/o any issue.


The smaller ones:



Those are the ones I had issues with. But I'm using 2 of their larger ones... hold on


----------



## royce5950

The funny thing is these didnt cover 100% of the o-ring either but they do cover enough to not experience any issues. I've been running the longer ones now for about a month. And also I noticed their smaller silver ones are working too. But if you want to use black extensions and you want to use the tiny ones like these. I believe their the smallest size offered, Then dont quote me on saying any of them are fully risk free other than the enzotech ones... infact, dont quote me at all... Or if you must quote, just say you heard it from SWIM...


----------



## royce5950

Conclusion in my experience being:

small bitspower (silver) : ok

small bitspower (black) : no

small enzotech (black) : yes

longer bitspower (black) : yes

longer bitspower (silver) : yes

longer enzotech (black) : yes

This is just my experience and when the smaller bitspower fittings leaked I tried all levels of tightening from semi loose, to super tight and all experienced the same leak. but when the loop wasnt running it wouldnt leak, but no matter what the pump speed or coolant level if the computer was on, just the slightest amount of pressure and there it went again... I cant explain why these are my answers or why some work and some dont, but what I *DO* know is that the enzotech extenders cover the entire revolver fitting and thus leave me feeling the safest.


----------



## johnnybra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> The funny thing is these didnt cover 100% of the o-ring either but they do cover enough to not experience any issues. I've been running the longer ones now for about a month. And also I noticed their smaller silver ones are working too. But if you want to use black extensions and you want to use the tiny ones like these. I believe their the smallest size offered, Then dont quote me on saying any of them are fully risk free other than the enzotech ones... infact, dont quote me at all... Or if you must quote, just say you heard it from SWIM...


Nice pic, mate.

Btw, what is this liquid color?


----------



## royce5950

Theres 2 loops going here, Its my personal computer. The small reservoir in the picture is primochill black ice coolant with a drop or two of primochill intensifier "blood red". Their black ice is a translucent black that sort of looks purple so I added the intensifier, pictured here:



The cpu loop has a matching EK 240mm rad, xspc dual bay D5 pump res combo, alphacool 80ml res and thats about it.

The second loop is the gpu loop. both loops have ek blocks, top is ek supremacy clean. the lower block is a gpu full cover on a MSI gtx 660 ti twin frozr (used to be a twin frozr) lol And that loop consists of a 240mm EK rad, phobya dc12-400 pump, alphacool cape cyclone 250ml res and that coolant is koolance UV red coolant w/ one drop intensifier added.

thanks for your interest.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Next upgrades lined up! I wanna get my 780Ti under water before the end of the year. I also wanna replace the rest of the poopey generic fittings I have and have only monsoon


----------



## ozzy1925

guys i am about to order 10x http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans/24-wingboost2/124-120-black-white-plus-2
for my 2x ut 60 480mm and 1x ut 60 240mm. rads.Do you think i made a good choice?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys i am about to order 10x http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans/24-wingboost2/124-120-black-white-plus-2
> for my 2x ut 60 480mm and 1x ut 60 240mm. rads.Do you think i made a good choice?


I looked up several sources/reviews and nowhere did they offer the Static pressure of this fan. That is generally not a good sign.

Most reported an annoying click/sound as well.

this seemed about typical

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/alpenfoehn_foehn_120_wing_boost_fan_review,7.html

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-015-AL


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I looked up several sources/reviews and nowhere did they offer the Static pressure of this fan. That is generally not a good sign.
> 
> Most reported an annoying click/sound as well.
> 
> this seemed about typical
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/alpenfoehn_foehn_120_wing_boost_fan_review,7.html
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-015-AL


hmm, i tought these are great radiator fans


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I looked up several sources/reviews and nowhere did they offer the Static pressure of this fan. That is generally not a good sign.
> 
> Most reported an annoying click/sound as well.
> 
> this seemed about typical
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/alpenfoehn_foehn_120_wing_boost_fan_review,7.html
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-015-AL
> 
> 
> 
> hmm, i tought these are great radiator fans
Click to expand...

 Don't get me wrong, they may be fine. It's just when they don't offer the MM H2O figures it is generally not a good sign or a figure they are proud of.

Check out the cougars, or the Excaliburs

I use the Excaliburs on my five rads at 3.53MM H2O and they are tremendous heat extractors.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002

 2.2 MM H2O

3.53 MM H2O


----------



## Blackspots

How about this fan? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835345067


----------



## Jimhans1

I've heard enough bad things about the Spectres as rad fans that I wouldn't recommend them for that, supposed to be good as case fans though, just not as rad/heatsink fans. But @snef just used a ton of them in his most recent build?!?!


----------



## slothiraptor

What are some great micro atx or itx cases for watercooling besides caselabs? I have a switch 810 and I'm looking to make a new build that's smaller.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> What are some great micro atx or itx cases for watercooling besides caselabs? I have a switch 810 and I'm looking to make a new build that's smaller.


TJ08e is a awesome little case. Fits a 180 rad no problem also


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> What are some great micro atx or itx cases for watercooling besides caselabs? I have a switch 810 and I'm looking to make a new build that's smaller.


There aren't any that are great, some of them are ok, I'd even go as far as saying some are good, but there aren't any besides the CLs that are great


----------



## ledzepp3

Here's some initial pictures of my finally functioning rig







waiting on some cables to come back from Lutro0, and then both 290X's and both 840 EVO drives will be alive!








Comments and feedback always appreciated









-Zepp


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys i am about to order 10x http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans/24-wingboost2/124-120-black-white-plus-2
> for my 2x ut 60 480mm and 1x ut 60 240mm. rads.Do you think i made a good choice?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I looked up several sources/reviews and nowhere did they offer the Static pressure of this fan. That is generally not a good sign.
> 
> Most reported an annoying click/sound as well.
> 
> this seemed about typical
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/alpenfoehn_foehn_120_wing_boost_fan_review,7.html
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-015-AL


Those fans are just now being released, you won't see much for reviews on them. Afaik they have only been available from caseking and ocuk and both only carried blue for the last month or so. In the last week or so caseking is listing all colors/sizes. You might be thinking of the original wingboost. The ones with the clovers and whatnot.

I love mine (I have 140 wingboost) and can't wait until I can get some of the new orange 120s! My 140s seem like really good rad fans and they are pwm. Besides, most fan box specs are total bs anyhow. Bneg was the first person I seen using them and he recommends them often as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys i am about to order 10x http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans/24-wingboost2/124-120-black-white-plus-2
> 
> for my 2x ut 60 480mm and 1x ut 60 240mm. rads.Do you think i made a good choice?
> 
> 
> 
> I looked up several sources/reviews and nowhere did they offer the Static pressure of this fan. That is generally not a good sign.
> 
> Most reported an annoying click/sound as well.
> 
> this seemed about typical
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/alpenfoehn_foehn_120_wing_boost_fan_review,7.html
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-015-AL
Click to expand...

I use them,don't be fooled by reviews,they don't tick for me at all,all the way down to 400rpm.They are silent and shift plenty of air.
Also,don't get hung up on static pressure ratings,they don't equate to meaningful performance,the PQcurve is the only thing that has any bearing on fan performance.









As for CM fan stats.....well,safe to say CM has lied quite massively before with theirs Red....sorry fella.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Those fans are just now being released, you won't see much for reviews on them. Afaik they have only been available from caseking and ocuk and both only carried blue for the last month or so. In the last week or so caseking is listing all colors/sizes. You might be thinking of the original wingboost. The ones with the clovers and whatnot.
> 
> I love mine (I have 140 wingboost) and can't wait until I can get some of the new orange 120s! My 140s seem like really good rad fans and they are pwm. Besides, most fan box specs are total bs anyhow. Bneg was the first person I seen using them and he recommends them often as well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Those fans are just now being released, you won't see much for reviews on them. Afaik they have only been available from caseking and ocuk and both only carried blue for the last month or so. In the last week or so caseking is listing all colors/sizes. You might be thinking of the original wingboost. The ones with the clovers and whatnot.
> 
> I love mine (I have 140 wingboost) and can't wait until I can get some of the new orange 120s! My 140s seem like really good rad fans and they are pwm. Besides, most fan box specs are total bs anyhow. Bneg was the first person I seen using them and he recommends them often as well.


Do you think old version gives better performance than the new version?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use them,don't be fooled by reviews,they don't tick for me at all,all the way down to 400rpm.They are silent and shift plenty of air.
> Also,don't get hung up on static pressure ratings,they don't equate to meaningful performance,the PQcurve is the only thing that has any bearing on fan performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for CM fan stats.....well,safe to say CM has lied quite massively before with theirs Red....sorry fella.


Hey,nice to see an experienced person using them. what do you think should i go with the new series?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use them,don't be fooled by reviews,they don't tick for me at all,all the way down to 400rpm.They are silent and shift plenty of air.
> Also,don't get hung up on static pressure ratings,they don't equate to meaningful performance,the PQcurve is the only thing that has any bearing on fan performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for CM fan stats.....well,safe to say CM has lied quite massively before with theirs Red....sorry fella.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey,nice to see an experienced person using them. what do you think should i go with the new series?
Click to expand...

I am...when they finally get released....

Don't take my comment as to mean Red is not experienced,he is.
Just not with this fan.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys i am about to order 10x http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans/24-wingboost2/124-120-black-white-plus-2
> 
> for my 2x ut 60 480mm and 1x ut 60 240mm. rads.Do you think i made a good choice?
> 
> 
> 
> I looked up several sources/reviews and nowhere did they offer the Static pressure of this fan. That is generally not a good sign.
> 
> Most reported an annoying click/sound as well.
> 
> this seemed about typical
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/alpenfoehn_foehn_120_wing_boost_fan_review,7.html
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-015-AL
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I use them,don't be fooled by reviews,they don't tick for me at all,all the way down to 400rpm.They are silent and shift plenty of air.
> Also,don't get hung up on static pressure ratings,they don't equate to meaningful performance,the PQcurve is the only thing that has any bearing on fan performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for CM fan stats.....well,safe to say CM has lied quite massively before with theirs Red....sorry fella.
Click to expand...

you sort of left out an important portion of my post:

Quote:Red1776


> Don't get me wrong, they may be fine. It's just when they don't offer the MM H2O figures it is generally not a good sign or a figure they are proud of.
> 
> Check out the cougars, or the Excaliburs


secondly. I used a great number of fans on my rads before settling on the Excalibur's. There was a distinct performance/cooling difference with the Ex's (with my rads). It would seem that CM hit the right combination between volumetric flow rate and pressure on the PQ curve.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am...when they finally get released....
> 
> Don't take my comment as to mean Red is not experienced,he is.
> Just not with this fan.


I think the new series are out because i talked with aquacomputer and they will get the new series for me for a good price each 8.32euro


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys i am about to order 10x http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans/24-wingboost2/124-120-black-white-plus-2
> 
> for my 2x ut 60 480mm and 1x ut 60 240mm. rads.Do you think i made a good choice?
> 
> 
> 
> I looked up several sources/reviews and nowhere did they offer the Static pressure of this fan. That is generally not a good sign.
> 
> Most reported an annoying click/sound as well.
> 
> this seemed about typical
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/alpenfoehn_foehn_120_wing_boost_fan_review,7.html
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-015-AL
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I use them,don't be fooled by reviews,they don't tick for me at all,all the way down to 400rpm.They are silent and shift plenty of air.
> 
> Also,don't get hung up on static pressure ratings,they don't equate to meaningful performance,the PQcurve is the only thing that has any bearing on fan performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for CM fan stats.....well,safe to say CM has lied quite massively before with theirs Red....sorry fella.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> you sort of left out an important portion of my post:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong, they may be fine. It's just when they don't offer the MM H2O figures it is generally not a good sign or a figure they are proud of.
> Check out the cougars, or the Excaliburs
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> secondly. I used a great number of fans on my rads before settling on the Excalibur's. There was a distinct performance/cooling difference with the Ex's (with my rads). It would seem that CM hit the right combination between volumetric flow rate and pressure on the PQ curve.
Click to expand...

Of that I have no doubt,I was speaking in general terms about specs,CM are well known for padding.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Of that I have no doubt,I was speaking in general terms about specs,CM are well known for padding.


I will say that they didn't pad the name of the JetFlo fans - they sound just like a jet!


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Here's some initial pictures of my finally functioning rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waiting on some cables to come back from Lutro0, and then both 290X's and both 840 EVO drives will be alive!
> 
> 
> 
> Comments and feedback always appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Very clean! bends are very well done. I would love to see some more of this, do you have a build log?

EDIT: sorry of course you do, managed to not even see the massive build log link in your sig lol.


----------



## derredbaron




----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Very clean! bends are very well done. I would love to see some more of this, do you have a build log?
> 
> EDIT: sorry of course you do, managed to not even see the massive build log link in your sig lol.


Apologies for the dark pictures, getting the tubing to show up using the lighting installed in the case isn't exactly easy







thank you for the compliment








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derredbaron*


Oh, looking at this makes me fuzzy inside


----------



## JySzE

Add me










Finished this build a week ago forgot until now to post









All black fans will be switched out with 3 SP120's and 2 AF120's.

i ordered the 2 of the 5 i need a while back but they were DOA







..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question about gaskets

I got a couple of these 360 & 240mm 3mm Thick Neoprene gaskets laying around, just wondering if its worth sticking them on my rig, will they do anything for the air flow or would they just dampen the vibration?

If I do stick them in these Phobya 6-32 x 35 screws should be long enough to work with them shouldnt they?

Thanks









I honestly dont remember when in the hell I bought these gaskets lol


----------



## skupples

They are normally pretty damn squishy. Mine have compressed down to probably 1mm. That combined with the flex bay mounts = had to use 35mm on one side, but I also use these little black 1mm thick nylon washers since your typical radiator screw head is a bit small for typhoon.


----------



## khemist

I posted a pic a while ago of my EK classy block with some type of corrosion or discolouration, sent it back and got a refund.

Just to say the place i bought it from managed to clean it up, (not sure what they used) so it must have been biological, so as not to put anyone off EK products.










https://imageshack.com/i/ngyi6wj

Anyway, i went with acetal over the plexi this timel, i'll post this in the EK thread as well.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They are normally pretty damn squishy. Mine have compressed down to probably 1mm. That combined with the flex bay mounts = had to use 35mm on one side, but I also use these little black 1mm thick nylon washers since your typical radiator screw head is a bit small for typhoon.


Ah ok thanks, if there just gonna compress I wont worry about it, fans are almost dead silent on constant 5v anyway


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Do you think old version gives better performance than the new version?


I am curious to see how they perform in comparison. The new models are quite a bit cheaper than the originals.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question about gaskets
> 
> I got a couple of these 360 & 240mm 3mm Thick Neoprene gaskets laying around, just wondering if its worth sticking them on my rig, will they do anything for the air flow or would they just dampen the vibration?
> 
> If I do stick them in these Phobya 6-32 x 35 screws should be long enough to work with them shouldnt they?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly dont remember when in the hell I bought these gaskets lol


It depends a little on the fans you use them with. If the fans have a nice square frame then the gaskets block all the small gaps on the edge and ensure all airflow is focused where its meant to go. Some fans with odd shaped frames like Corsair, Antec or Alpenfohn (any that are designed to seal against a circular shape) there will still be large gaps and the gaskets can't really do anything.
I like them. They isolate the fan nicely. The Neoprene on the XSPC's is stiffer than others I have used so they don't compress a lot. How long the screws need to be depends on the fans too. Some will be fine with 30mm, others might need 35mm


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I am curious to see how they perform in comparison. The new models are quite a bit cheaper than the originals.


yea me either dont know why are the new series are cheaper anyways i ordered 10 of them.


----------



## MeanBruce

Woohoo, Bitspower extenders to navigate around the video card and use a Monsoon 45degree rotary.

This water cooling stuff is so complicated.









15mm, 20mm, and 25mm(one inch):

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7931_zpsf288e70e.jpg.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question about gaskets
> 
> I got a couple of these 360 & 240mm 3mm Thick Neoprene gaskets laying around, just wondering if its worth sticking them on my rig, will they do anything for the air flow or would they just dampen the vibration?
> 
> If I do stick them in these Phobya 6-32 x 35 screws should be long enough to work with them shouldnt they?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly dont remember when in the hell I bought these gaskets lol


Just inspect carefully if you have to go with the 35 mm if will not hit the rad. Most rads these days have some sort of protection against this but it never hurt to be careful.


----------



## snef

first, made some Color test. simply love Darkside Sleeving,


Received custom backplate, color match is very good, maybe grey is little bit lighter on sleeving, live with that






simply love these block






and try Black and white pics, not sure.....


----------



## Jeronbernal

lookin great snef


----------



## VSG

Snef, you ok with the big Bitspower logo there?


----------



## snef

yes because we will not see it

its very hard to see this face of a GPU block when installed in a regular vertical build
and if I see it to much, I will remove it by sanding and polish


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Shout out to FrozenCPU for being awesome!


----------



## VSG

That is pretty cool of them


----------



## Pimphare

@snef


----------



## Kimir

That is beautiful indeed, another beauty build incoming for sure.


----------



## ccRicers

Wow, Snef, looking snazzy as usual. I need a backplate like that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im in this months MOTM on Bittech!

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=274279

Vote for your favorite megalomaniac Dog!


----------



## Kimir

I would, if only I was registred on this forum.


----------



## ginger_nuts

If anyone is interested,

I am doing a water build log, with a difference then most are use to, a chilled water setup.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1492508/chilled-test-bench-build


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If anyone is interested,
> 
> I am doing a water build log, with a difference then most are use to, a chilled water setup.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1492508/chilled-test-bench-build


Was it you I was talking about Hailea chillers with?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im in this months MOTM on Bittech!
> 
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=274279
> 
> Vote for your favorite megalomaniac Dog!


Already voted.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im in this months MOTM on Bittech!
> 
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=274279
> 
> Vote for your favorite megalomaniac Dog!
> 
> 
> 
> Already voted.
Click to expand...

Aw...but Sassanou doesnt need more votes Low......


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aw...but Sassanou doesnt need more votes Low......


I voted for you.









Honestly not a fan of the Gold 24K build.

Pretty awesome prizes this month too. 2nd place this month is 8 x Corsair fans. 2nd place for last month was 12 screws.


----------



## marcgarcia322

hey everyone i've recently attempted to get water cooling working on my 770 with the kraken G10 and corsair h-55 but i was unable to get the temps lower than on air only about the same as air . i was using graphene for thermal paste was wondering what you guys recommend,and how can you tell when the pump is running this pump never makes a swooshing noise and the radiator never got warm


----------



## VSG

What thermal paste were you using? Can you link the product page please?

If the radiator never got warm and you can't hear the pump, how do you know the pump is even working anymore? Even the worst thermal paste should be enough to transfer some heat to the loop.


----------



## marcgarcia322

i was using acrtic freeze 5 graphene the corsair h-55 is brand spanking new


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If anyone is interested,
> 
> I am doing a water build log, with a difference then most are use to, a chilled water setup.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1492508/chilled-test-bench-build
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Was it you I was talking about Hailea chillers with?
Click to expand...

It could have been, I recall someone saying about them









But the opportunity come up for this to take shape, and when building it myself I will learn more I think. And I couldn't find any locally, cheap.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aw...but Sassanou doesnt need more votes Low......


When is the MOTM... I was hoping that mine could enter...


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im in this months MOTM on Bittech!
> 
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=274279
> 
> Vote for your favorite megalomaniac Dog!


Boo, they apparently won't let new members vote! Sorry, B Neg. Just pretend that you have one more vote than you actually do.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcgarcia322*
> 
> i was using acrtic freeze 5 graphene the corsair h-55 is brand spanking new


Try remounting the AIO. I also really have no info on that thermal paste and you are the first person I know who uses it. Doesn't the Corsair H-55 have pre-applied TIM? Did you scrape it off or leave it as-is? If it was not removed, the total TIM layer may have been quite thick to get much of any heat out.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcgarcia322*
> 
> i was using acrtic freeze 5 graphene the corsair h-55 is brand spanking new
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Try remounting the AIO. I also really have no info on that thermal paste and you are the first person I know who uses it. Doesn't the Corsair H-55 have pre-applied TIM? Did you scrape it off or leave it as-is? If it was not removed, the total TIM layer may have been quite thick to get much of any heat out.
Click to expand...

Is that Arctic Silver 5?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Yo, so i ran out of my generic coolermaster TIM, so what is the preferred TIM for you guys? It's gonna be on a GPU block and a CPU block.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that Arctic Silver 5?


Nah, I looked it up. Seems to have been something sold on eBay till recently sold by a company called Graphene.ws



Apparently performs pretty poorly, but still not bad enough to explain the case above.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Yo, so i ran out of my generic coolermaster TIM, so what is the preferred TIM for you guys? It's gonna be on a GPU block and a CPU block.


So far it has been Prolimatech PK-3 for me. Gelid GC-Extreme is also very good. In a week or two, I may well end up recommending another paste if the prelim results hold up.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Mmmm nothing like a polished block.










You can find more in my build log titled Schwarz Nickel. Link in my sig









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It depends a little on the fans you use them with. If the fans have a nice square frame then the gaskets block all the small gaps on the edge and ensure all airflow is focused where its meant to go. Some fans with odd shaped frames like Corsair, Antec or Alpenfohn (any that are designed to seal against a circular shape) there will still be large gaps and the gaskets can't really do anything.
> I like them. They isolate the fan nicely. The Neoprene on the XSPC's is stiffer than others I have used so they don't compress a lot. How long the screws need to be depends on the fans too. Some will be fine with 30mm, others might need 35mm


Ah ok well I got AP-15 fans so no weird shape









If I remember correctly the AX rads have screw holes designed to miss the fins and tubes? so I should be good on that front, I did try with 30mm and they just wouldnt go through so I think 35mm are in order
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just inspect carefully if you have to go with the 35 mm if will not hit the rad. Most rads these days have some sort of protection against this but it never hurt to be careful.


Well as I just said I'm pretty sure the AX rad was designed to not have a problem with longer screws

Thanks guys, might end up trying the gaskets and see how they go (not that I'll really need them with 10 AP-15s







), thats if I ever get my FrozenCPU order









Edit, 35mm screws will be long enough to go through the gasket and metal of the case should it?


----------



## marcgarcia322

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that Arctic Silver 5?


no its arctic freeze 5 it is a graphene tim that works well on every cpu i have put it on arctic silver didnt work as well with this the less use the better
but after twenty min.or so the radiator was still cold as ice, the thermal compound that came on the unit came off after first attempt with no way to reuse
i must have tried twenty times to get it work this is why i thought that maybe the pump wasnt pumping


----------



## Blatsz32

hello, a quick question to all the watercooling pros out there: Currently I am running an MCP655 with a 120 and a 240 rad both low profile rads. I have it set up pump/res, to 120, to gpus (2x 780s), to 240 rad, to cpu, then into a frozenq res which acts as a water collector. My temps aren't abysmal but i know they could be better. During heavy BF4 gaming my cpu temps are as high as 64c (overclocked 3770k 4.6) and my 780s are at 45c..needless to say the water gets pretty hot.

Anyway. ive seen similar setups on the forums, my question is , are these kind of temps normal? I'm thinking about throwing on another rad but before I do I thought I'd ask. I should mention that I've had the rads I'm using now for a long time..they are pretty beat up and have a lot of bent fins. maybe thats the problem?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> hello, a quick question to all the watercooling pros out there: Currently I am running an MCP655 with a 120 and a 240 rad both low profile rads. I have it set up pump/res, to 120, to gpus (2x 780s), to 240 rad, to cpu, then into a frozenq res which acts as a water collector. My temps aren't abysmal but i know they could be better. During heavy BF4 gaming my cpu temps are as high as 64c (overclocked 3770k 4.6) and my 780s are at 45c..needless to say the water gets pretty hot.
> 
> Anyway. ive seen similar setups on the forums, my question is , are these kind of temps normal? I'm thinking about throwing on another rad but before I do I thought I'd ask. I should mention that I've had the rads I'm using now for a long time..they are pretty beat up and have a lot of bent fins. maybe thats the problem?


64C on your CPU? What are your ambient temperatures and voltage to run that frequency? Because so far, that actually looks quite spectacular in terms of temps. Which surprises me as you are running a CPU/2GPUs both OC'd to fair amounts on 360mm total rad space.


----------



## Blatsz32

74 degrees ambient in the room and my voltage is 1.32. Is it safe to assume that I am in good shape. Would uncrushed fins help?


----------



## mikemykeMB

Nevermind.. That is a


----------



## Blatsz32

yes sir windows opened. I'm idling at 50c highest







. I guess my concern is the dispation of the heat.
oh snap..guys I apologize..I'm looking at my realtemp log..how embarrasing. Highest during my session of BF4 was 76c. Apologies


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Yo, so i ran out of my generic coolermaster TIM, so what is the preferred TIM for you guys? It's gonna be on a GPU block and a CPU block.


NT-H1


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608008


----------



## iCrap

redid my loop


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> redid my loop


that UV action on the plumbing is SO SICK.

What is it?


----------



## iCrap

primochill uv blue, running EK UV Blue.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> primochill uv blue, running EK UV Blue.


I don't like UV stuff, but that's down right slick.

10/10 would PC again


----------



## iCrap

yeah UV is not normally my thing either, but I want to mainly see the tubing more than anything else while the tinted window is in place, and UV is the best way to get that effect.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JySzE*
> 
> NT-H1
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608008


I recently tried Gelid GC Extreme and very glad I did. The stuff is awesome. I had an overheating GPU and lopped 15C off of temps under heavy load. Seriously 15C. My max temp at a high overclock and Valley on HD extreme went from 91c to 76C just changing to this TIM.


----------



## marcgarcia322

hello i just attempted to water cool my msi 770 again but to no avail it runs better on air and i cant figure out what i'm doing wrong this was my third attempt the first 2 attempts the radiator never got warm this time the radiator got very warm when under load and the heat dissapation is about the same as air or a little worse does anyone have any ideas what i might be doing wrong


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcgarcia322*
> 
> hello i just attempted to water cool my msi 770 again but to no avail it runs better on air and i cant figure out what i'm doing wrong this was my third attempt the first 2 attempts the radiator never got warm this time the radiator got very warm when under load and the heat dissapation is about the same as air or a little worse does anyone have any ideas what i might be doing wrong


Is it a dedicated liquid loop or an AIO (like an h50) that has been mounted via the Kraken mount or the like. What block and what liquid loop setup are you using?


----------



## XEONIC

Requesting advice on cooling a AMD T1100,
Been having this idea of cooling the water with a few peltiers.


----------



## agung79

hello..

about the pump,

right no i'am using mcp355 pump, with 4500rpm (on fan monitor and i assumed the pump works well),

for cpu, gpu, vrm and 420rad 360rand and 140rad,

are okay to add another mcp355 or mcp35x pump, series with the old one, in one loop?

more cooler causing by more speed or debit of water compare to one pump.

thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agung79*
> 
> hello..
> 
> about the pump,
> 
> right no i'am using mcp355 pump, with 4500rpm (on fan monitor and i assumed the pump works well),
> 
> for cpu, gpu, vrm and 420rad 360rand and 140rad,
> 
> are okay to add another mcp355 or mcp35x pump, series with the old one, in one loop?
> 
> more cooler causing by more speed or debit of water compare to one pump.
> 
> thanks


You an but you should pair like with like,if you ate using a 18w DDC then you should add a second of the same.

What makes you think you are flow deficient?


----------



## agung79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You an but you should pair like with like,if you ate using a 18w DDC then you should add a second of the same.
> 
> What makes you think you are flow deficient?


some my friend at local water cooling forum told me to added another pump.

but if enough with one pump, then just one pump.

thanks for quick respond.


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I recently tried Gelid GC Extreme and very glad I did. The stuff is awesome. I had an overheating GPU and lopped 15C off of temps under heavy load. Seriously 15C. My max temp at a high overclock and Valley on HD extreme went from 91c to 76C just changing to this TIM.


Sounds more like it was a bad mount that bad TIM. Generally speaking, i believe the best and worst TIM would only net 4-5c (excluding CLU/CLP)

EDIT: Toms hardware had an article and the results chart is:


Their article is a good read also
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,review-32804.html

they even tried tooth paste


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> Sounds more like it was a bad mount that bad TIM. Generally speaking, i believe the best and worst TIM would only net 4-5c (excluding CLU/CLP)
> 
> EDIT: Toms hardware had an article and the results chart is:
> 
> 
> Their article is a good read also
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,review-32804.html
> 
> they even tried tooth paste


Either that or dried out TIM


----------



## sinnedone

Just wanted to give you guys a heads up. Newegg is having a sale on the COUGAR CF-V12HP PWM 120mm fans and they come out to 9 dollars a piece with promo code EMCPEHC72, ends 6/2 so get to it.









LINKY


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Just wanted to give you guys a heads up. Newegg is having a sale on the COUGAR CF-V12HP PWM 120mm fans and they come out to 9 dollars a piece with promo code EMCPEHC72, ends 6/2 so get to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LINKY


I like the "limit 5 per customer" I mean who wants an odd number of fans. 2 people come to mind scruples and wermad


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I like the "limit 5 per customer" I mean who wants an odd number of fans.


They need this code on the black version. Orange won't go well with a red, black and white theme.

Also of note, I finally finished with drafting out the water cooling system in the CaseLabs Mercury S8 I will eventually buy.

I most likely won't be using so many 90 and 45 degree pieces, and will instead bend the tubing. (Its easier to use the fittings than try to create a curved pipe in Sketchup)

Goes as follows:
Res/pump to 240
240 to CPU
CPU to 360
360 to GPU
GPU to res/pump


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> Sounds more like it was a bad mount that bad TIM. Generally speaking, i believe the best and worst TIM would only net 4-5c (excluding CLU/CLP)
> 
> Their article is a good read also
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,review-32804.html
> 
> they even tried tooth paste


That was a big part of it. I think the TIM got dried out or something but it is still better than it was even new.


----------



## jpetrach

something...... just doesn't seem right here....... I just cant put my finger on it.

I found my new card cooler


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> 
> 
> something...... just doesn't seem right here....... I just cant put my finger on it.
> 
> *Old block?*
> 
> I found my new card cooler


Nice, but be aware it will only cool the gpu. Memory and power components are not actively cooled. Are you sure you don´t want to expend like 20 buck more for a EK shortie?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/ng31cwj

https://imageshack.com/i/nfk3z7oj


----------



## ledzepp3

Dumpin' more goodies on this thread







Finally got the chance to take some decent pictures! Click on them for links to the full res pics







Is there anyone else that's mixed bending and fittings together like this? I really haven't seen something like this that I can remember, it's either all fittings or all bends





















-Zeppity Zepp


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nice, but be aware it will only cool the gpu. Memory and power components are not actively cooled. Are you sure you don´t want to expend like 20 buck more for a EK shortie?


I have a sapphire R9 270x 4 gb no water cooler for it. i have to use the generic

I made this. works good, but worried about that good quality aluminum from china


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/nfk3z7oj


Did you custom cut that window yourself or did you buy it somewhere?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizZz*
> 
> Did you custom cut that window yourself or did you buy it somewhere?


I bought it direct from Silverstone, the newer TJ08 comes with a windowed side panel, mine is the old model.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Dumpin' more goodies on this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got the chance to take some decent pictures! Click on them for links to the full res pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there anyone else that's mixed bending and fittings together like this? I really haven't seen something like this that I can remember, it's either all fittings or all bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zeppity Zepp


Looks very good "ledzepp3" A side on shot to show all of the case would be nice and I think a flash would help as well









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I have a sapphire R9 270x 4 gb no water cooler for it. i have to use the generic
> 
> I made this. works good, but worried about that good quality aluminium from china


aluminium in your loop scars me and I dare say others too, You might want to Google up "Galvanic Corrosion" = Bad Ju Ju


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Dumpin' more goodies on this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got the chance to take some decent pictures! Click on them for links to the full res pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there anyone else that's mixed bending and fittings together like this? I really haven't seen something like this that I can remember, it's either all fittings or all bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zeppity Zepp


Nice work - by the way my favorite album is "Presence" and favorite song "Achilles last stand". Led Zeppelin III was a good album to though.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Nice work - by the way my favorite album is "Presence" and favorite song "Achilles last stand". Led Zeppelin III was a good album to though.


The albums I really like are Coda, How the West Was Won (the live album), and Zeppelin IV. Above my bed I've got what I consider to be the holy trinity of records: Cream's Disraeli Gears, Zeppelin IV, and Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band all on vinyl. Call me obsessed but nothing sounds as authentic as real vinyl, and a bass blasting through a real American amp









By the way dude- your 750D looks wicked







I didn't even know that Powercolor made Devil version of 270X. You got my brain going on the idea of building a dedicated folding/mining rig with a water cooled CPU/VRM and dual air cooled 290X's









-Zepp


----------



## charliebrown

I will be installing a new GPU so can I partially drain my loop install new part then fill back up or should I drain completely loop is only 2 months old


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> The albums I really like are Coda, How the West Was Won (the live album), and Zeppelin IV. Above my bed I've got what I consider to be the holy trinity of records: Cream's Disraeli Gears, Zeppelin IV, and Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band all on vinyl. Call me obsessed but nothing sounds as authentic as real vinyl, and a bass blasting through a real American amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way dude- your 750D looks wicked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't even know that Powercolor made Devil version of 270X. You got my brain going on the idea of building a dedicated folding/mining rig with a water cooled CPU/VRM and dual air cooled 290X's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Thanks man, I did get to see Zep in the KingDome in Seattle. It was one of the best shows I have ever been too. It would have been the best for sure it they didn't play Zep music on a loop outside the dome from 6AM until they let us in at 6PM.

Right now I am trying to figure out how to incorporate cobalt blue into my next build for my son. I got a rare Sapphire mobo that is black with cobalt blue heatsinks and a Corsair C70 Black to put it in.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I have a sapphire R9 270x 4 gb no water cooler for it. i have to use the generic
> 
> I made this. works good, but worried about that good quality aluminum from china
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have something that will fit right on there and cool core and memory.

IMAG27121.jpg 1185k .jpg file


Let me know if your interested, I have 2 for sale


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Thanks man, I did get to see Zep in the KingDome in Seattle. It was one of the best shows I have ever been too. It would have been the best for sure it they didn't play Zep music on a loop outside the dome from 6AM until they let us in at 6PM.
> 
> Right now I am trying to figure out how to incorporate cobalt blue into my next build for my son. I got a rare Sapphire mobo that is black with cobalt blue heatsinks and a Corsair C70 Black to put it in.


Hmm... What board?

Being 17 I haven't quite had the opportunity to see the greats in concert







I've gotten to see Cheap Trick, Joan Jett, Lynyrd Skynyrd, and a local group named Elsinore a few times. If you've never heard of Elsinore, just go and look up them on iTunes or Youtube. The albums "Push/Pull" and "Yes Yes Yes" are absolutely phenomenal, even better when you consider how long these guys have been around









I still can't get over your rig dude









-Zepp


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hmm... What board?
> 
> Being 17 I haven't quite had the opportunity to see the greats in concert
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've gotten to see Cheap Trick, Joan Jett, Lynyrd Skynyrd, and a local group named Elsinore a few times. If you've never heard of Elsinore, just go and look up them on iTunes or Youtube. The albums "Push/Pull" and "Yes Yes Yes" are absolutely phenomenal, even better when you consider how long these guys have been around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't get over your rig dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








I have seen so many I do feel lucky - Zep, Aerosmith, (Cheaptrick-ACDC-Ted Nugent all in one show), Rush, Yes, Supertramp, Van Halen, Black Sabeth, OK I am aging myself bigtime huh?

In my real younger days I saw Earth wind and fire, KC and the sunshine band and the Ohio Players. Pat Travers and Blue Oystercult together too. And I can't forget Foghat.


----------



## Jeronbernal

When you guys tear down your loops acrylic or soft tubing what do you guys do with your fittings? Do you soak them in distilled? Or what should I do? Especially with the BP enhanced multi link fittings and the c47s?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> When you guys tear down your loops acrylic or soft tubing what do you guys do with your fittings? Do you soak them in distilled? Or what should I do? Especially with the BP enhanced multi link fittings and the c47s?


I always remove and inspect each o-ring and rinse each fitting with hot tap water. I've never had to tear down my acrylic loop, but for the past few soft tubing loops I've built that's what has happened.

-Zepp


----------



## marcgarcia322

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Is it a dedicated liquid loop or an AIO (like an h50) that has been mounted via the Kraken mount or the like. What block and what liquid loop setup are you using?


yes its a closed loop its a corsair H-55, the kraken g10 bracket i could not find a true full block for a msi 770 gaming oc


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> When you guys tear down your loops acrylic or soft tubing what do you guys do with your fittings? Do you soak them in distilled? Or what should I do? Especially with the BP enhanced multi link fittings and the c47s?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I always remove and inspect each o-ring and rinse each fitting with hot tap water. I've never had to tear down my acrylic loop, but for the past few soft tubing loops I've built that's what has happened.
> 
> -Zepp


Get new O-rings / or have them, just a mandatory replacement in my mind, and the work I do.


----------



## Jeronbernal

What o ring size is used inside the c47/enhanced multi links? I know the thread is g1/4 but the o ring that holds the 12mm tubing? And where can I get it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Nice work - by the way my favorite album is "Presence" and favorite song "Achilles last stand". Led Zeppelin III was a good album to though.
> 
> 
> 
> The albums I really like are Coda, How the West Was Won (the live album), and Zeppelin IV. Above my bed I've got what I consider to be the holy trinity of records: Cream's Disraeli Gears, Zeppelin IV, and Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band all on vinyl. Call me obsessed but nothing sounds as authentic as real vinyl, and a bass blasting through a real American amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way dude- your 750D looks wicked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't even know that Powercolor made Devil version of 270X. You got my brain going on the idea of building a dedicated folding/mining rig with a water cooled CPU/VRM and dual air cooled 290X's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp
Click to expand...

You have excellent taste,Cream,Clapton and Hendrix......accept no substitutes.

Vinyl is <3

Also ..PETG deforming and bulging? http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1338-petg-problem/

And they all rushed to push it out......


----------



## Hefner

I've been running my loop for 6 months now and yesterday I did the first maintenance. I noticed that there was a little bit of brown particles on my fittings. What do you guys think it could be? There is only copper, brass, glass and acrylic in contact with the water and I've used pastel white as coolant.

I flushed everything thoroughly with hot water and DI so I hope it will be fine now.


----------



## aerial

Switched to core only block. With fan attached to card, full cover is not needed:





https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/LianLiA7110LCRev2


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Switched to core only block. With fan attached to card, full cover is not needed.


Just curious as to why you made the switch? Just to try it or new card? Less restriction maybe? lol ..or trying to get better vrm cooling?


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Just curious as to why you made the switch? Just to try it or new card? Less restriction maybe? lol ..or trying to get better vrm cooling?


I'm changing video cards quite often, it was just too much of a pain to get new fc each time.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> I'm changeing video cards quite often, it was just too much of a pain to get new fc each time.


Ok that makes sense.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have excellent taste,Cream,Clapton and Hendrix......accept no substitutes.
> 
> Vinyl is <3
> 
> Also ..PETG deforming and bulging? http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1338-petg-problem/
> 
> And they all rushed to push it out......


I remember buying and Yardbirds album at a used record shop in the 70's with Jeff Beck, Jimmy Page and Eric Clapton. Wish I still had it. Can't even remember the album name now.


----------



## ozzy1925

guys my alphacool rads came with black screws (i dont know their dimensions)and the screws heads are smaller than the case holes(900d).I dont want to use washers.Is it ok if i get bigger head screws?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys my alphacool rads came with black screws (i dont know their dimensions)and the screws heads are smaller than the case holes(900d).I dont want to use washers.Is it ok if i get bigger head screws?


Are you going push or pull or push/pull? You can mount the fans on top of the rad and screw the fans to the case. You probably want the fans visible from the inside though right?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys my alphacool rads came with black screws (i dont know their dimensions)and the screws heads are smaller than the case holes(900d).I dont want to use washers.Is it ok if i get bigger head screws?


Common issue, I used black 1mm thick nylon washers from my local hardware store, as it was much cheaper than ordering form fitting screws.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Are you going push or pull or push/pull? You can mount the fans on top of the rad and screw the fans to the case. You probably want the fans visible from the inside though right?


i will push only
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Common issue, I used black 1mm thick nylon washers from my local hardware store, as it was much cheaper than ordering form fitting screws.


do you the picture of the look?i dont want it to look bad


----------



## Pimphare

@ozzy1925

I'd probably go with something like Skupples idea. Not too many other options. I had the same problem with my 650d and alphacool st30. I just used the rad screws that actually came with my noiseblocker fans. They also had small heads but they came with "thumb nuts". I screwed them all the way to the head (sounds kinda odd) to give them a larger flange/surface area. Doesn't look bad imo.



You can always check out PPC's button head screws. They don't cost very much.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_724


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @ozzy1925
> 
> I'd probably go with something like Skupples idea. Not too many other options. I had the same problem with my 650d and alphacool st30. I just used the rad screws that actually came with my noiseblocker fans. They also had small heads but they came with "thumb nuts". I screwed them all the way to the head (sounds kinda odd) to give them a larger flange/surface area. Doesn't look bad imo.
> 
> 
> 
> You can always check out PPC's button head screws. They don't cost very much.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_724


thanks, if not i will look for black washers


----------



## Pimphare

PcPartpicker finally went mobile!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Does anyone know if the EK-DDC Heatsink Housing will fit on the EK Single 5.25" Bay Reservoir w/ Dual Serial DDC 3.25 Pumps combo?

1 for each pump.


----------



## Jeronbernal

it will fit, as long as you have space above CMON MAN I TOLD YOU THIS!









"This product is guaranteed to be compatible with any EK-DDC type water pump (EK-DDC X-TOP type) or water pump / reservoir combo unit with (EK-DDC X-RES type), including DDC BAY X-RES."


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> it will fit, as long as you have space above CMON MAN I TOLD YOU THIS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "This product is guaranteed to be compatible with any EK-DDC type water pump (EK-DDC X-TOP type) or water pump / reservoir combo unit with (EK-DDC X-RES type), including DDC BAY X-RES."


Haha, would you get half of your brain removed without a second opinion? That is a different model pump/res combo


----------



## mikemykeMB

My lik wood kew'ld test bench-countertop thingy..U like? LOL


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Does anyone know if the EK-DDC Heatsink Housing will fit on the EK Single 5.25" Bay Reservoir w/ Dual Serial DDC 3.25 Pumps combo?
> 
> 1 for each pump.


It is specifically mentioned on the product page for the heatsink, so yeah it will fit. It will just mean it will take up two 5 1/4 bays instead of the one.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It is specifically mentioned on the product page for the heatsink, so yeah it will fit. It will just mean it will take up two 5 1/4 bays instead of the one.


Awesome, thanks! +1

+1 @Jeronbernal just for being a PITA. Haha, just kidding


----------



## 033Y5

hello
i am gonna be redoing my loop within the next couple weeks and want to know what layout might be best .
i have to use in the loop
raystorm cpu block
ex240 and ex 360 rads in push pull
ek r9 290 block
2 xspc x20 750 pump/res

has anyone got any suggestions on which setup might work better over the other or even a different layout using the parts above


(excuse the paint job)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *033Y5*
> 
> has anyone got any suggestions on which setup might work better over the other or even a different layout using the parts above
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why all the criss-crossing? Much cleaner to go: pump-res1 -> pump-res2 -> CPU block -> GPU block -> rad240 -> rad360 -> back to res


----------



## Blackspots

I've got a question with using a fan controller with standard 3 pin vs 4 pin PWM fans in regards with using it for a water cooling system. If I wanted to use a Lamptron 611 controller with PWM fans, how would that work vs using it with regular 3 pin fans?

Also, what's the best fans for a water cooling system?

I know a lot of people say to use Corsair's SP fans, there's also the Scythe fans Standard 3 pin and 4 pin PWM

What other fans are recommended?

Also, as for case fans, I'm looking for airflow, white blades/black frame (I figure SilenX or NZXT fans are probably good for this)


----------



## 033Y5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Why all the criss-crossing? Much cleaner to go: pump-res1 -> pump-res2 -> CPU block -> GPU block -> rad240 -> rad360 -> back to res


was not to sure if it was a good idea to go pump/res to pump/res


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> I've got a question with using a fan controller with standard 3 pin vs 4 pin PWM fans in regards with using it for a water cooling system. If I wanted to use a Lamptron 611 controller with PWM fans, how would that work vs using it with regular 3 pin fans?
> 
> Also, what's the best fans for a water cooling system?
> 
> I know a lot of people say to use Corsair's SP fans, there's also the Scythe fans Standard 3 pin and 4 pin PWM
> 
> What other fans are recommended?
> 
> Also, as for case fans, I'm looking for airflow, white blades/black frame (I figure SilenX or NZXT fans are probably good for this)


http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_1471&products_id=23079&zenid=1f9b998fed74d2d2fbd970ec3900b8a9


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *033Y5*
> 
> was not to sure if it was a good idea to go pump/res to pump/res


I don't think you need two of them anyway, but it seemed like you already decided it









If you want the second pump as a backup / failover, then you could just mount a separate pump at the bottom of the case and have the outlet go up to the GPU.

There was some discussion some time ago: what happens if one of two bayres-pumps is going faster than the other, but it turned out it wasn't a problem as long as the loop is mostly full.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_1471&products_id=23079&zenid=1f9b998fed74d2d2fbd970ec3900b8a9


I'd actually recommend the B12-2 models. The 2's will down volt low enough to have a truly silent rig. I've got four of those fans running exhaust in my own rig right next to me







if you decide to swap to black fans, try the Phobya versions of those fans. They're still made by NoiseBlocker and are extremely quiet, but they have basic mounting hardware and a fixed cable unlike the NoiseBlocker branded fans. If you don't want the eLoop style fans, the BlackSilentPro series fans are really nice as well. I'm running three PL-2 and four PK-2 fans, and they're wicked nice.

10/10 would fan again with NoiseBlocker products.

-Zepp


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_1471&products_id=23079&zenid=1f9b998fed74d2d2fbd970ec3900b8a9


So this for my radiators (with a fan controller)? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16919/fan-1049/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-4_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_2400_RPM_-_3429_dBA_.html


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> So this for my radiators (with a fan controller)? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16919/fan-1049/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-4_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_2400_RPM_-_3429_dBA_.html


Personally i would go with the NB-eLoop B12-3,having said that if you dn't mind the extra dba and have a fan controller to turn them down when needed,i dn't see why those couldnt be used....


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Personally i would go with the NB-eLoop B12-3,having said that if you dn't mind the extra dba and have a fan controller to turn them down when needed,i dn't see why those couldnt be used....


Yeah, I plan on using a fan controller with all my fans (radiator and case fan)


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *033Y5*
> 
> hello
> i am gonna be redoing my loop within the next couple weeks and want to know what layout might be best .
> i have to use in the loop
> raystorm cpu block
> ex240 and ex 360 rads in push pull
> ek r9 290 block
> 2 xspc x20 750 pump/res
> 
> has anyone got any suggestions on which setup might work better over the other or even a different layout using the parts above
> (excuse the paint job)


I'd only use 1 Res/Pump as it will be difficult to fill 2 together. if the 750 isn't strong enough you'll need a DDC/D5 Res/pump.



Res/Pump > Top Rad > Cpu > Rear Rad > GPU > Res/Pump


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yeah, I plan on using a fan controller with all my fans (radiator and case fan)


Edit: Also to ease your curiosity, I'm using them on a alphacool st30 240mm in push and a 360 monsta in push/pull. Noise is not an issue. Temps are great!










The B12-3's are great. I have them and run them on low with my voltage fan controllers. It's nice to have the rpm overhead when needed, should I bump them up a little while benching and/or overclocking.


----------



## toggLesss

soooo this is where i ask myself, "why oh why did you think it was cool to use dye in your coolant?"

re-casing my water cooled 680i LT & decided to do some spring cleaning... yeah the hoses used to be
transparent green. #fail

should have pictures when i've finished the transfer

Some random $25 case (the worst)
nForce 680i LT
Intel Pentium Dual Core e5300
GeForce GT 610
8gb RAM
Thermaltake Big Water 735 (OG)









*Current Build:* -- coming soon

Enermax Ostrog
Intel DQ77MK (meh)
Core i7 3770
GeForce GTX 660
16gb RAM
XSPC Raystorm 750 (240)

also.. ive been hearing alot about distilled water... ive always just ran a PG compound, but like i previously stated, after testing some dye in the PG, i get this beauty to clean up. needless to say im fairly turned off to it & looking to be enlightened. hearing good things about Mayhems Pastel coolants. thoughts?


----------



## Jimhans1

Unless your doing sub-ambient cooling, I would say to stay away from PG based coolants, pastel is a great coolant, as is the Mayhems X1. And in the past, when I used to run PG/EG based coolants, even with out the dye, it would gum up just like your block and tubing, so my guess is that the gunk you see if gummy PG that is BLUE from the dye, and not actually DUE to the dye.


----------



## toggLesss

ive always ran my loop (res/pump -> cpu -> rad -> res)

scanning through the pictures, i see quite a few setups that run through the rads before they hit the block... is this way ideal or
is it merely just preference?


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have been on this forum for a while now and am constantly on this thread. I am pretty sure this is the first time I have posted a picture here so be nice.


never been a fan of white cases... but this is super clean.
job well done.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> ive always ran my loop (res/pump -> cpu -> rad -> res)
> 
> scanning through the pictures, i see quite a few setups that run through the rads before they hit the block... is this way ideal or
> is it merely just preference?


Loop order isn't really important except res before / above pump, and then go for the cleanest route / less tubing / bends as possible to maximize flow / appearance.

Although it is true that the pump will add a little bit of heat to the loop (by how much depends on type pump - but it's tiny in any case) so the lowest temp will be leaving a rad, so there is a small benefit to also having rad > block, but it's not something worth making your loop more complicated to accomplish. res > pump > block > rad > res ... is just fine.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> ive always ran my loop (res/pump -> cpu -> rad -> res)
> 
> scanning through the pictures, i see quite a few setups that run through the rads before they hit the block... is this way ideal or
> is it merely just preference?


The best practice is to cool something, exchange the heat=radiator, then cool the next item up for bidz. If unable then route to ensure minimal length between the two. Move the liquid quicker to displace the heat. And always make sure that less effort is against the pump, meaning..don't allow for it to suck for more liquid.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> The best practice is to cool something, exchange the heat=radiator, then cool the next item up for bidz. If unable then route to ensure minimal length between the two. Move the liquid quicker to displace the heat. And always make sure that less effort is against the pump, meaning..don't allow for it to suck for more liquid.


valid.

thank you for that.

common sense is the best sense.


----------



## SeeThruHead

It sounds like you're suggesting to put rads after each block. If that is what you're saying then it is incorrect. There's no reason to do that.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> It sounds like you're suggesting to put rads after each block. If that is what you're saying then it is incorrect. There's no reason to do that.


Reason?..Please explain, a hot spot to another hot spot ..doesn't cool as well.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> never been a fan of white cases... but this is super clean.
> job well done.


Hey thanks!


----------



## SeeThruHead

Rate of flow is too high for that. The water only gains and loses a small portion of heat per trip around the loop. The water quickly settles at a temperature that us a result of the total heat put into the system vs what your rads can dissipate. Loop should be within 2c at any point.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> It sounds like you're suggesting to put rads after each block. If that is what you're saying then it is incorrect. There's no reason to do that.


^ This.

If you were really trying to expound on this theory, you'd be better off performance-wise having a rad directly _before_ each block, not after, but it quickly turns into crazy talk for loops with multiple blocks as you'd wind up with a loop that looks like Medusa or a plate of spaghetti.

Just make sure your res is above / before your pump and then just go for the cleanest route possible between all your components. Done.


----------



## Kimir

Pictures, because this thread is about pictures!!!











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Reason?..Please explain, a hot spot to another hot spot ..doesn't cool as well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> It sounds like you're suggesting to put rads after each block. If that is what you're saying then it is incorrect. There's no reason to do that.


True, you cannot put a rad on each GPU if you have Quadz-...Tri's..Duo's..But the best way is to remove heat, than bring the after-cooled into a item that makes heat..That's All..


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Loop order isn't really important except res before / above pump, and then go for the cleanest route / less tubing / bends as possible to maximize flow / appearance.
> 
> Although it is true that the pump will add a little bit of heat to the loop (by how much depends on type pump - but it's tiny in any case) so the lowest temp will be leaving a rad, so there is a small benefit to also having rad > block, but it's not something worth making your loop more complicated to accomplish. res > pump > block > rad > res ... is just fine.


The way I plan it is: Res --> 240 rad --> CPU --> 360 rad --> GPU --> GPU --> res

Though, I imagine I can go: Res --> CPU --> 240 rad --> GPU --> GPU --> 360 rad --> res


----------



## toggLesss

the 'pump -> rad -> block' method seems like it would be the most efficient in terms of temperature.

on this specific rig, i have a small case & a single 120mm rad/fan setup. & im only using it to cool the cpu as my gt 610 doesnt really take too much of a beating. lol



^^__^^

(cheap) Antec case (stripped bare)
nForce 680i LT
Pentium Dual Core 5300
GeForce GT 610
Thermaltake BW 735 w/ super dye-stained hoses.









cant really tell by the picture, but before i stripped and cleaned the system. i was running the rad on the back & the fan on the outside of that (sucking) the air out (or trying to).
i had the idea to keep the rad on the outside & relocate the fan to the inside blowing into the rad. seems to be working great (in terms of airflow coming out of the 'exhaust'.

none of my other fans are on at the moment while i leak check.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Pictures, because this thread is about pictures!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










:thumb:


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> True, you cannot put a rad on each GPU if you have Quadz-...Tri's..Duo's..But the best way is to remove heat, than bring the after-cooled into a item that makes heat..That's All..


I used to think it worked that way too but just trust what were saying it makes no difference if you put the loop pump, rad rad rad cpu gpu gpu vs pump cpu rad gpu rad gpu rad. The actual temperature of the water is within 2c or variance at any point in the loop. If you had incredibly low flow where the unit of water stayed in the cpu block for long enough to heat up significantly and then moved into the rad and stayed there long enough to lose all that heat it would work that way but in reality the water is moving so fast it takes a tiny little bit of heat from the blocks and gives a tiny bit of heat to the rad each pass. It does this so quickly that the water stays the same temperature. Throughout the loop. The more important thing to calculate is the overall heartland as a whole vs overall heat dissipation, which you can use to figure out at what temperature (vs the ambient) the loop will stabilize at.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I used to think it worked that way too but just trust what were saying it makes no difference if you put the loop pump, rad rad rad cpu gpu gpu vs pump cpu rad gpu rad gpu rad. The actual temperature of the water is within 2c or variance at any point in the loop. If you had incredibly low flow where the unit of water stayed in the cpu block for long enough to heat up significantly and then moved into the rad and stayed there long enough to lose all that heat it would work that way but in reality the water is moving so fast it takes a tiny little bit of heat from the blocks and gives a tiny bit of heat to the rad each pass. It does this so quickly that the water stays the same temperature. Throughout the loop. The more important thing to calculate is the overall heartland as a whole vs overall heat dissipation, which you can use to figure out at what temperature (vs the ambient) the loop will stabilize at.


Agreed, and as mentioned, it is moving the liquid to move/dissipate the heat from source. Its right that stabilizing temps are by the difference in the entire loop, and at each one will vary, but keeping the lowest is key to efficiency. Having a idle temp at say...30c, and the same system looped different could have a higher or lower difference on just what the precedence.


----------



## SeeThruHead

You won't get better temps by changing the loop order. Only by removing resistance ie having shorter tubing runs. It's a concept you either get it or not I guess.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Pictures, because this thread is about pictures!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Everyone shhhh!! Take a look there in the grass... This is a rare but spectacular sight...the CaseLabs Panda grazing in its natural habitat. So majestic and wondrous, yet it will attack at a moments notice, ripping your face off with sheer force. The speed at which this animal moves is astonishing, it even stays quite cool as it goes for the jugular.









Such an awesome build! Your build log has intrigued me along the way.


----------



## BadDad62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Pictures, because this thread is about pictures!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sir that is Sweeeeeetttttt























1 tiny little critique is the colour of the optical drive, or even the fact you have one


----------



## skupples

Never really put 2 & 2 together until now but the stock MCP35X2 top is loud as hell @ high speed. Very winy. Has a really high pitch compared to the XSPC top.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Never really put 2 & 2 together until now but the stock MCP35X2 top is loud as hell @ high speed. Very winy. Has a really high pitch compared to the XSPC top.


Once you go D5, you never go back. DDCs decoupled were so noisy compared to a D5 decoupled (decoupled from case). I first used a DDC in my main build, and switched it out for a D5. It made quite a difference.


----------



## khemist

The loudest ddc top i've ever used is the bitspower mini tank, the turbulence was insanity!, apart from that i've not had any probs with ddc's and i always hook them up to my fan controller.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Pictures, because this thread is about pictures!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Wow, that SMA8 is really starting to grow on me. Really like your layout in it too (save for the already mentioned clashing optical drive that's just begging for a coat of black plastidip). Looks like my watercooling dream case.

Perhaps you or someone else familiar with it could answer one or more of the few questions I have.

What's different between the SMA8 and the SM8? At just a glance they look identical and I believe they have the same outside dimensions.
What thickness rad are you running (or what thickness rad is there room to run) in the top & are you running push-pull?
Is there even room for a set of fans on top under the standard height top or would I need the 39mm top option?
Does Caselabs make a shorter depth 5.25" bay bracket that could be used for a fan controller in that top slot next to a 480 rad up top or would I have to mod one myself?
That B&W two tone color option, is it only available white on the outside and black inside, or will Caselabs also do it the other way around - Black outside & white inside?


----------



## SinatraFan

Well done Kimir!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Agreed, and as mentioned, it is moving the liquid to move/dissipate the heat from source. Its right that stabilizing temps are by the difference in the entire loop, and at each one will vary, but keeping the lowest is key to efficiency. Having a idle temp at say...30c, and the same system looped different could have a higher or lower difference on just what the precedence.


You forget something. Just as lower coolant temp is better for the waterblock, the opposite is true of radiator performance. Rad cools more when coolant is hotter.

See here radiator in-out temperatures



As you see, at low and medium fan speeds that most of us are using, there is a difference between in and out temperatures of _less than half a degree_.

So, tell me, using heat exchange formula, the difference between putting block-block-rad-rad and block-rad-block-rad. Let's take arbitrary CPU and GPU temps of ~60C stabilised, and radiator in-out delta of 0.5C around ~35C, and e.g. 25C. Since the temp is stabilised the cooling delta would be for both examples.

block-block-rad-rad: block delta 24.5C, block delta 24C, for rads delta 11C, delta 10.5C

block-rad-block-rad: delta 24.5C, rad delta 10.5C, block delta 24.5C, rad delta 10.5C

So in first example, the second block is a little hotter than in the second example. But in the first example, the first rad is cooling a bit more than in the second example.

I can't do the exact math without knowing coolant composition, block and rad surface area, etc. (Maybe JackNaylor would try!) But as you see, approximately it all equals out, and what you lose you gain elsewhere.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Once you go D5, you never go back. DDCs decoupled were so noisy compared to a D5 decoupled (decoupled from case). I first used a DDC in my main build, and switched it out for a D5. It made quite a difference.


This was near silent with the old top on it. Its just this Swiftech top, has a high pitched whine @ high RPM that doesn't exist on other tops.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Sir that is Sweeeeeetttttt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 tiny little critique is the colour of the optical drive, or even the fact you have one


Thanks, yes it has been said for the optical drive, fact is it only been few days since I completed the right and I already used it few times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow, that SMA8 is really starting to grow on me. Really like your layout in it too (save for the already mentioned clashing optical drive that's just begging for a coat of black plastidip). Looks like my watercooling dream case.
> 
> Perhaps you or someone else familiar with it could answer one or more of the few questions I have.
> 
> What's different between the SMA8 and the SM8? At just a glance they look identical and I believe they have the same outside dimensions.
> What thickness rad are you running (or what thickness rad is there room to run) in the top & are you running push-pull?
> Is there even room for a set of fans on top under the standard height top or would I need the 39mm top option?
> Does Caselabs make a shorter depth 5.25" bay bracket that could be used for a fan controller in that top slot next to a 480 rad up top or would I have to mod one myself?
> That B&W two tone color option, is it only available white on the outside and black inside, or will Caselabs also do it the other way around - Black outside & white inside?


I'll get some black vinyl for the drive, maybe, one day. I just need to move myself and get some lol.
The SMA8 is bigger than the SM8.
I'm using UT60 for the 240 front and the two 480, the 360 in front of the PSU is a monsta. All ut60 are in push, monsta in p/p. You need the bigger top to put some pull fan, the standard one isn't big enough to put fan under.
There is shorter bracket for fan controller, I only discovered it after my purchase and yes there is enough space to put it in front.
For two tone color, you choose what you want it black and white, just write it in comments when you place your order.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Well done Kimir!


Thanks


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> You won't get better temps by changing the loop order. Only by removing resistance ie having shorter tubing runs. It's a concept you either get it or not I guess.


Tubing length has an almost negligible impact on a sealed water cooling system like we use. You could use 10 feet of tubing and likely not see a noticeable impact on performance.


----------



## bobcarrizal

Speed Demon IV Gaming PC Specs
Mobo: ASUS Crosshair V Formula 990FX AM3+
CPU: AMD FX Eight Core Processor 4.0GHz (Boost 4.2GHz)
GPU: AMD Radeon HD7870 GHz Edition (ASUS HD7870-DC2-2GD5-V2)
Memory Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL
Power Supply:Thermaltake Toughpower TPD-0750M - SLI/ CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Gold Certification and Semi Modular Cables Black Active PFC Power Supply Intel Haswell Ready (PS-TPD-0750MPCGUS-1)
Water Cooling: Thermaltake Water 3.0 Extreme (CLW0224) Water/Liquid CPU Cooler 240MM (Installed AM3+ Back Plate)
SSD: SAMSUNG 840 EVO MZ-7TE250BW 2.5" 250GB SATA 6Gb/s TLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
HDD 1: Western Digital WD Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive
HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive
Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 Modded (Paint Corvette Red)
Cooling Fans: Cooler Master Sickleflow RED (2000RPM)


----------



## royce5950

Just some random shots to up the visual content <3

Personal rig I completed recently if anyone missed it.

I'll have some more shots up as the new build I'm working on is past the case mod phase. I'm still rebuilding the top and rear panels where I cut the stock panels out.

I have a build log: "Corsair x70.1 Revenge" Custom Liquid Cooled PC w/ 90° Motherboard Mod, AX Rads & More!!

Check it out if youd like.
















You didnt put your all into a watercooled build if it didnt make you smile, cry, scream or sigh in relief when you turn it on and your case isnt a swimming pool for your components


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Screen is working!



Woooo!

Need to just nudge the screen to level it up tho but she is in and working,result...
Need to seriously buff the paint, got masking stickies all over it





Right.no more pics till the plate is in and the loop is finished.....Royal Mail,I R Disappoint.


----------



## skupples

Very nice B! Raspberry Pi? or that other one that I can never remember the name of..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Very nice B! Raspberry Pi? or that other one that I can never remember the name of..


No,I wish I had done something like that tho...Its a second screen desktop extension with touch capability,it will have aquaero information on it


----------



## morencyam

That mini screen is really cool B Neg. How is that connected to the PC? I'm assuming you don't need to run a cable from the screen, through the rear of the case, and connect to the GPU?

PS. I imagine you avatar is a fairly accurate representation of when your rig went up


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Screen is working!
> 
> 
> 
> Woooo!


You guys are totally insane, that mini-display is the most amazing thing I've ever seen on OCN, dear God I want one for the Gemini chassis...

Wooooooots


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That mini screen is really cool B Neg. How is that connected to the PC? I'm assuming you don't need to run a cable from the screen, through the rear of the case, and connect to the GPU?
> 
> PS. I imagine you avatar is a fairly accurate representation of when your rig went up


Sadly,thats exactly what I have to do..its well hidden tho. There is also a USB cable for the touch screen.

Fear the flames of Phobya!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly,thats exactly what I have to do..its well hidden tho. There is also a USB cable for the touch screen.
> 
> Fear the flames of Phobya!


That's somewhat disappointing. At least you were able to keep it well hidden though.

I do think it's a little ironic that their name is Phobya. Seems fitting that phobia=fear


----------



## VSG

I was considering the raspberry pi plus screen in pedestal as well but the screen would be at floor level for me so decided against it. That looks great, B- neg.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I was considering the raspberry pi plus screen in pedestal as well but the screen would be at floor level for me so decided against it. That looks great, B- neg.


I may well adopt that idea myself....I am seriously considering ditching the ped and doing a full rebuild into the main case,new res and screen mounts in the front.

Its just too big for ITX with the ped,the board is totally lost in it


----------



## MiiX

BNeg, I have to know, where did you get the screen? and what do you need to get it working? I was looking at something similar for myself. Awesome rig/work/everything as usual!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I may well adopt that idea myself....I am seriously considering ditching the ped and doing a full rebuild into the main case,new res and screen mounts in the front.
> 
> Its just too big for ITX with the ped,the board is totally lost in it


Agreed, that case (most CaseLabs cases) are self-sufficient in rad space.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Just some random shots to up the visual content <3
> 
> Personal rig I completed recently if anyone missed it.
> 
> I'll have some more shots up as the new build I'm working on is past the case mod phase. I'm still rebuilding the top and rear panels where I cut the stock panels out.
> 
> I have a build log: "Corsair x70.1 Revenge" Custom Liquid Cooled PC w/ 90° Motherboard Mod, AX Rads & More!!
> 
> Check it out if youd like.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You didnt put your all into a watercooled build if it didnt make you smile, cry, scream or sigh in relief when you turn it on and your case isnt a swimming pool for your components


Rig looks awesome man. Great job on the acrylic!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Screen is working!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woooo!
> 
> Need to just nudge the screen to level it up tho but she is in and working,result...
> Need to seriously buff the paint, got masking stickies all over it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right.no more pics till the plate is in and the loop is finished.....Royal Mail,I R Disappoint.


You already know your rig is a masterpiece but great work bro. Screen & custom front plate/res are lookin smexxxy as hell!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Very nice B! Raspberry Pi? or that other one that I can never remember the name of..


You mean Odroid or Arduino? I've been thinking of trying to incorporate my Odroid U2 into my rig somehow cuz it's pretty much just been gathering dust since i bought it lol. I've been trying to think of something creative to do with it for a while now


----------



## skupples

YEs! Arduino was what i was thinking of.... buuut i don't think arduino can run windows.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm not sure if any of em can really run windows. The Odroid is very capable of running Linux tho. That's why i originally bought it.


----------



## toggLesss

may i join?















forgive the HDD on the floor.. i had no room in the bay due to an intake fan.

nForce 680i LT
Pentium Dual Core 5300
GT 610
Thermaltake Big Water 735 (complete kit)


----------



## skupples

Welcome aboard!


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Welcome aboard!


the honor is overwhelming...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> the honor is overwhelming...


I love the HDD... I had 2 HDDs sitting on top of my PSU inside my Storm trooper for about a year.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I love the HDD... I had 2 HDDs sitting on top of my PSU inside my Storm trooper for about a year.


mine always seem to end up in the most random spots within the case...
i recently purchased a enermax ostrog case, so im hoping it's a tad bit bigger than this antec.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Guys, need a little advice:

I have my corsair 250D, but I notice that due that the Koolance RP1250 only ran the fans at 100%, my font fan rad, a NB BlackSilentPro PK2 it's too noisy for me.... (The NB eloops 12-2 on the rad side are perfect, but this one ..... meh







)

I'm looking for a good quiet one, and I'm thinking between these 2:

*COUGAR VORTEX CF-V14H
Phanteks PH-F140SP*

The phanteks match better with color scheme, but this really doesn't matter....
Whats your opinion?

Fact, the rad it's a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60

Thanks!


----------



## SinatraFan

Kamikaze...

I can't speak for the Phanteks (although I was REALLY considering this fan), but I have 28 cougars in my HAF-X cube build and I have to say they are whisper quiet and push a lot of air.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Kamikaze...


very clean.

job well done.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Kamikaze...
> 
> I can't speak for the Phanteks (although I was REALLY considering this fan), but I have 28 cougars in my HAF-X cube build and I have to say they are whisper quiet and push a lot of air.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whooooo! Like your build!
Star wars theme it's always a WIN!









Thanks for the advice


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> very clean.
> 
> job well done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikazemonkey*
> 
> Whooooo! Like your build!
> Star wars theme it's always a WIN!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice


Thanks! I just finished fixing a leak during my leak test and am fixing on filling her up with the tinted coolant and firing her up. I'll post final pics here soon.


----------



## DreadManD

Just wanted to add my completed build Illuminate to the club, with my modded Haf-X and custom Z77 MPower MB Cover. You can check my build log for more pics.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> Just wanted to add my completed build Illuminate to the club, with my modded Haf-X and custom Z77 MPower MB Cover. You can check my build log for more pics.


Very nice and clean. I like it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Noctua's new 'Beaver Edition' fans......

And the most pointless new product goes to......

Corsair for this little beauty!



Remove stock cooler to watercool,add the bit you are getting rid of because it noisy.

And no finning on the board cover....dear god.....I predict pisspoor performance.


----------



## aerial

They just can't drop their beige. It is like red for ferrari.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua's new 'Beaver Edition' fans......
> 
> And the most pointless new product goes to......
> 
> Corsair for this little beauty!
> 
> 
> 
> Remove stock cooler to watercool,add the bit you are getting rid of because it noisy.
> 
> And no finning on the board cover....dear god.....I predict pisspoor performance.


Is this is a late April fools joke?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sadly not......

Im kinda liking the fuzzy felt fans tho.....


----------



## sinnedone

My goodness.









Acoustically speaking the felt might work, but I cant imagine it working very well for airflow. Plus cleaning the dust would be so much of a pain. Might as well throw em in the wash.


----------



## MrGrievous

If you had a choice of either push/pull fans on a 60mm thick rad or just one layer of fans on a monsta rad what would you choose. I keep going back and forth on the watercooling gear I'm about to for my first loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> If you had a choice of either push/pull fans on a 60mm thick rad or just one layer of fans on a monsta rad what would you choose. I keep going back and forth on the watercooling gear I'm about to for my first loop.


Push will generally give you better performance than pull.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> If you had a choice of either push/pull fans on a 60mm thick rad or just one layer of fans on a monsta rad what would you choose. I keep going back and forth on the watercooling gear I'm about to for my first loop.


If you go with a Monsta with only one row of fans usually you will need a high speed/pressure/noise fan to accomplish the job. I suppose a delta fan can "cut through" the monsta easily just in push but you would end up with something similar to a bloody airport close to your desk. I would choose the 60 mm rad with push/pull since that way I can keep fans nearly silent. Just mine


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Push will generally give you better performance than pull.


Yea I gathered from reading through several watercooling guides, and martins test as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you go with a Monsta with only one row of fans usually you will need a high speed/pressure/noise fan to accomplish the job. I suppose a delta fan can "cut through" the monsta easily just in push but you would end up with something similar to a bloody airport close to your desk. I would choose the 60 mm rad with push/pull since that way I can keep fans nearly silent. Just mine


No that is a reasonable explanation, but I want to ask even though the ut60 and the monsta share the same fpi I would need higher rpm to achieve the same results for the monsta? I was planning on either using the some Cougars or maybe Gelid Silent solutions for my fans in the 140mm size if that makes any difference.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Yea I gathered from reading through several watercooling guides, and martins test as well.
> No that is a reasonable explanation, but I want to ask even though the ut60 and the monsta share the same fpi I would need higher rpm to achieve the same results for the monsta? I was planning on either using the some Cougars or maybe Gelid Silent solutions for my fans in the 140mm size if that makes any difference.


Think in terms of the air moving through the rad. With one set of fans and a 80 mm thick rad the pressure necessary to get through that rad is larger that going thought a 60 mm rad (both with the same fpi which from your post I am assuming are OCool rads with low fpi). Never had a Monsta to test with different fans to give you the data so I am just using common sense here... But if you have space to either 1 Monsta + 1 row of fans or 1 60 mm rad and 2x rows of fans I suspect the latter will be a more effective way to dissipate heat and control noise at the same time.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

I'm having some issues priming my pump. The res is in the 240mm rad up top, and the pump wont pull any water through it. I have jiggled and shook the case, but no water goes through. (The pump is the cm glacer pump/cpu block combo) i used it in a previous loop and it worked fine. Any ideas?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> I'm having some issues priming my pump. The res is in the 240mm rad up top, and the pump wont pull any water through it. I have jiggled and shook the case, but no water goes through. (The pump is the cm glacer pump/cpu block combo) i used it in a previous loop and it worked fine. Any ideas?


There's no way for the water to gravity feed itself to the pump


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Yea I gathered from reading through several watercooling guides, and martins test as well.
> No that is a reasonable explanation, but I want to ask even though the ut60 and the monsta share the same fpi I would need higher rpm to achieve the same results for the monsta? I was planning on either using the some Cougars or maybe Gelid Silent solutions for my fans in the 140mm size if that makes any difference.


If its a choice between the two, the UT60 in push pull, absolutely, every time.

GliderHR did some testing with UT's and Monsta's and in his tests the Monsta provided no advantage over the UT. The added airflow from push pull will always be an advantage.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> There's no way for the water to gravity feed itself to the pump


It is just a bit higher than the pump. Ill try moving the tube a little to get the water fed in


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> I'm having some issues priming my pump. The res is in the 240mm rad up top, and the pump wont pull any water through it. I have jiggled and shook the case, but no water goes through. (The pump is the cm glacer pump/cpu block combo) i used it in a previous loop and it worked fine. Any ideas?


Got air trapped some where..take cap off and add more, turn pump on and see if it burp'd


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And the most pointless new product goes to......
> 
> Corsair for this little beauty!
> 
> 
> 
> Remove stock cooler to watercool,add the bit you are getting rid of because it noisy.
> 
> And no finning on the board cover....dear god.....I predict pisspoor performance.


You've not seen "The Mod" before? It's been quite a thing on OCN. Originally people using zipties to attach their H60 and spare 80mm fans to GPUs. Runs your card far quieter and cooler than stock air. Even if it looks ugly and ghetto, it's effective.

Then came Dwood selling a mounting bracket for peanuts, he was flooded with orders. Then NXZT spoke to Dwood at some convention, they've been selling the brackets a while too. Richie_2010 is selling a barebones mounting kit here on OCN too for 12 quid.

Surprised Corsair took so long to pick up on it


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Very nice and clean. I like it.


Thanks. Using the rigid tubing was the only way for me to get that almost stealth look to watercool the CPU.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua's new 'Beaver Edition' fans......
> 
> [...] .


No doubt they were made for this build.


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Yea I gathered from reading through several watercooling guides, and martins test as well.
> No that is a reasonable explanation, but I want to ask even though the ut60 and the monsta share the same fpi I would need higher rpm to achieve the same results for the monsta? I was planning on either using the some Cougars or maybe Gelid Silent solutions for my fans in the 140mm size if that makes any difference.


Going with the monsta and one row of fans will be a noisy affair pretty much with most fans if you want good temps and expect even more noise if you use PWM fans. The next thing you want to pay attention too is space. Those monsta's are huge. I use a 480mm and a 360mm UT60 in my setup. I have 2 rows of SP120 HP PWM's on the 480 and 2 rows of the SP120 HP on the 360 in push pull. The PWM's are definitely louder even at low rpm's. But I am able to get pretty decent temps with the fans running at 75%. 3770k @ 4.5 30C idle 45-48C load


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You've not seen "The Mod" before? It's been quite a thing on OCN. Originally people using zipties to attach their H60 and spare 80mm fans to GPUs. Runs your card far quieter and cooler than stock air. Even if it looks ugly and ghetto, it's effective.
> 
> Then came Dwood selling a mounting bracket for peanuts, he was flooded with orders. Then NXZT spoke to Dwood at some convention, they've been selling the brackets a while too. Richie_2010 is selling a barebones mounting kit here on OCN too for 12 quid.
> 
> Surprised Corsair took so long to pick up on it


I think his meaning was that Corsair took the ugliest solution and ran with it.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Think in terms of the air moving through the rad. With one set of fans and a 80 mm thick rad the pressure necessary to get through that rad is larger that going thought a 60 mm rad (both with the same fpi which from your post I am assuming are OCool rads with low fpi). Never had a Monsta to test with different fans to give you the data so I am just using common sense here... But if you have space to either 1 Monsta + 1 row of fans or 1 60 mm rad and 2x rows of fans I suspect the latter will be a more effective way to dissipate heat and control noise at the same time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If its a choice between the two, the UT60 in push pull, absolutely, every time.
> 
> GliderHR did some testing with UT's and Monsta's and in his tests the Monsta provided no advantage over the UT. The added airflow from push pull will always be an advantage.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> Going with the monsta and one row of fans will be a noisy affair pretty much with most fans if you want good temps and expect even more noise if you use PWM fans. The next thing you want to pay attention too is space. Those monsta's are huge. I use a 480mm and a 360mm UT60 in my setup. I have 2 rows of SP120 HP PWM's on the 480 and 2 rows of the SP120 HP on the 360 in push pull. The PWM's are definitely louder even at low rpm's. But I am able to get pretty decent temps with the fans running at 75%. 3770k @ 4.5 30C idle 45-48C load


Alright, thank you everyone who helped me out on this decision. I will go with UT60 then for my rads. +1 rep for everyone that chimed in thanks again!


----------



## Pimphare

@DreadManD

Beautiful!!


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Also guys, i have noticed that my Aquacomputer R9 290x block has a very small amount of water in it. My mayhems hasn't even gone in it. Here is a pic of how it's setup:


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Also guys, i have noticed that my Aquacomputer R9 290x block has a very small amount of water in it. My mayhems hasn't even gone in it. Here is a pic of how it's setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks from that angle like you have it set up wrong. The inlet and outlet should be on opposite sides. If they are both on the same side water just flows past it without being forced through it.
Move the top or bottom connection over to the left side.


----------



## Pimphare

Exactly what Jakusonfire says.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Oh no.... Now i have to tear down the entire loop


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Oh no.... Now i have to tear down the entire loop


No you don't. Just move one tube or the other over to the other port. Drain whats in either tube into a small pan or bowl, then just refill after it has been moved and reattached.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> No you don't. Just move one tube or the other over to the other port. Drain whats in either tube into a small pan or bowl, then just refill after it has been moved and reattached.


How would i take it out of the barb without it dripping all over the place? Like pull it out and place something over the end to stop it?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> How would i take it out of the barb without it dripping all over the place? Like pull it out and place something over the end to stop it?


Wrap it with a towel first, so you don't soak everything and have a bowl ready near you. (Could get a bit wet in the process if your aim is bad)

Or, just drain the loop till there is no water left in whichever tube you plan to swap over. That would be easier than a tear down.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> How would i take it out of the barb without it dripping all over the place? Like pull it out and place something over the end to stop it?


You can either pinch the tubing or lie the computer on its side so the gpu is sticking up in the air. That will make it a high point so when you disconnect the tube and move it over less water will drip out.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You can either pinch the tubing or lie the computer on its side so the gpu is sticking up in the air. That will make it a high point so when you disconnect the tube and move it over less water will drip out.


^ Good Idea


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Alright i'll try that tomorrow after work. I'll update with results


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> How would i take it out of the barb without it dripping all over the place? Like pull it out and place something over the end to stop it?


Ideally if you had a good clamp or a vise pliers you can use it to clam the top hose with a rag or towel so you wont damage the tube then remove the hose. Or if you don't tilt the open end of the case towards you and remove the lowest fitting. Or even if you have some length on your tubes you can remove the radiator from the case and just remove a hose from it outside the case to drain it. Probably if you post a picture of your whole setup we will be able to give better suggestions. Either way you will have to drain your loop to move that hose to the right port.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> No doubt they were made for this build.


That is by far the "coolest" chick ever! lol


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @DreadManD
> 
> Beautiful!!


Thanks Man


----------



## ajmal21

*Hope i am putting this in the right place.*

_*My first ever water cooling build. What you guys think?*_

CPU-380I Water Block
VID-AR290X Water Block
AQ aquastream XT -- pump
PrimoChill PRIMOFLEX™ Advanced LRT™ Bloodshed Red 1/2 ID 3/4 -- tubing
Swiftech 1/2IN X 3/4IN LOK-SEAL™ Compression Fitting - Black ---- broke two fitting while running it too tight. also too big when on the cpu block it hits other fitting corners.
Black Ice SR1-360 Silent Revision 1 Triple 120mm -- radiator
NoctuaNF-F12 120mm PWM Fan x3 for the radiator exhaust out of the case
Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm Case Fan Air intake back of the case
AquaComputer - Aquabox professional 5.25" single bay - reservoir

Still debating if i should get the aquaero 6 xt or aquaero 6 pro. from what i read on the forum's that the XT version has the remote and touchscreen is that correct?






please feel free to give me suggestion.


----------



## DarthBaggins

For a first loop, not too shabby







good to see someone else using that reservoir too


----------



## VSG

If the XT and Pro are similarly priced, go for the XT. Otherwise, honestly once you set up Aquasuite then you would likely never touch the actual controller again.


----------



## ajmal21

Thank you, i like the look of that reservoir alot only issue i have is that all the air in the reservoir goes back up the tub into the Radiator when the computer is off. what should i do? there is 3 opening in the back the inlet is on the top and the out goes to the pump from one of the bottom exhausts.


----------



## ajmal21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If the XT and Pro are similarly priced, go for the XT. Otherwise, honestly once you set up Aquasuite then you would likely never touch the actual controller again.


so touchscreen and the keypad is useless than, the price different is 30$ Dazmode.com not sure if its worted to spend 30$ on that stuff or get more usefull gear for my water cooling loop.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have mine set up similarly but have my out on the bottom left (looking at the res from the rear) and just topped mine off till air bubbles or the water rushing sounds were gone, it's easy to use the top plugs as air bleeder plugs as well.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmal21*
> 
> so touchscreen and the keypad is useless than, the price different is 30$ Dazmode.com not sure if its worted to spend 30$ on that stuff or get more usefull gear for my water cooling loop.


Go with the Pro version then.


----------



## ajmal21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I have mine set up similarly but have my out on the bottom left (looking at the res from the rear) and just topped mine off till air bubbles or the water rushing sounds were gone, it's easy to use the top plugs as air bleeder plugs as well.


what if i use the two bottom, one as inlet and the other for out?


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmal21*
> 
> *Hope i am putting this in the right place.*
> 
> _*My first ever water cooling build. What you guys think?*_
> 
> CPU-380I Water Block
> VID-AR290X Water Block
> AQ aquastream XT -- pump
> PrimoChill PRIMOFLEX™ Advanced LRT™ Bloodshed Red 1/2 ID 3/4 -- tubing
> Swiftech 1/2IN X 3/4IN LOK-SEAL™ Compression Fitting - Black ---- broke two fitting while running it too tight. also too big when on the cpu block it hits other fitting corners.
> Black Ice SR1-360 Silent Revision 1 Triple 120mm -- radiator
> NoctuaNF-F12 120mm PWM Fan x3 for the radiator exhaust out of the case
> Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm Case Fan Air intake back of the case
> AquaComputer - Aquabox professional 5.25" single bay - reservoir
> 
> Still debating if i should get the aquaero 6 xt or aquaero 6 pro. from what i read on the forum's that the XT version has the remote and touchscreen is that correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please feel free to give me suggestion.


Nice addition to the club ajmal21. You should also plan for a drain point in your loop for in the future. It will make maintenance a lot easier. And that pump is sweet. It will last you a long time. I really like your choice of fan controller of aquaero 6 xt or aquaero 6 pro. If I had to chose it will be the XT but it will be purely for bling. The Pro will serve you just as well. The fan controller is something you just kinda set and forget. Don't dedicate too much of your budget into it.


----------



## ajmal21

thanks for the suggestion, and yes I had everything planned out right untill i broke one of the fittings that supposed to be used for the drain valve beginners mistake and didn't order extra fitting thinking i should be fine. so when i order my aquaero 6 i will order few extra fittings. the drain valve goes right before the inlet of the pump. this is what i am using for the drain valve.

got it for dirt cheap: 4 way manifold from swifttech


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> Just wanted to add my completed build Illuminate to the club, with my modded Haf-X and custom Z77 MPower MB Cover. You can check my build log for more pics.


love this build and the loop


----------



## Hefner

I need some advice







: Should I pull the trigger on the Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B3AP-13 Fans? I'm not very happy with my current radiator fans and I'm clueless what I should get. I want a very quiet experience between 600-900 RPM. Most testing tables I found don't seem to be up-to-date.

Should I undervolt or get ap12s instead?


----------



## ajmal21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I need some advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> : Should I pull the trigger on the Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B3AP-13 Fans? I'm not very happy with my current radiator fans and I'm clueless what I should get. I want a very quiet experience between 600-900 RPM. Most testing tables I found don't seem to be up-to-date.
> 
> Should I undervolt or get ap12s instead?


this fan is very quiet i cant even hear them runing at 1000 rpm.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I need some advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> : Should I pull the trigger on the Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B3AP-13 Fans? I'm not very happy with my current radiator fans and I'm clueless what I should get. I want a very quiet experience between 600-900 RPM. Most testing tables I found don't seem to be up-to-date.
> 
> Should I undervolt or get ap12s instead?


These are pretty nice radiator fans but hard to find.

http://www.frys.com/product/6263290


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I need some advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> : Should I pull the trigger on the Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B3AP-13 Fans? I'm not very happy with my current radiator fans and I'm clueless what I should get. I want a very quiet experience between 600-900 RPM. Most testing tables I found don't seem to be up-to-date.
> 
> Should I undervolt or get ap12s instead?


I would go with the ap13. You can always undervolt them while the ap12 you can not reach the speed of the ap13. They should be pretty quiet and similar to the ap 14 and 15 at 1100 rpm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmal21*
> 
> what if i use the two bottom, one as inlet and the other for out?


Can you use the top port as the inlet directly from the rad? Would not that get rid of the air within the reservoir?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

I actually didn't have to drain my loop at all! I just tilted it, and since there was a large amount of air in it, i could pull it off and swap it quickly! Now i am performing the leak test


----------



## ajmal21

my current setup is, Rad going to top inlet of the reservoir and out of the bottom outlet to the pump, what happens is when i turn the computer off, all the air that is in reservoir goes out of the top inlet pushing air into the rad. also when computer turns on there is enough pressure that all the air gets pushed into reservoir and out into the pump for about 5 second i can hear the pump getting louder than back to normal.


----------



## rwisdaman

My current rig...

http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/Sivine/media/toys n stuff/pc2_zps47203f7d.jpg.html

May I join the club?


----------



## Gabrielzm

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmal21*
> 
> my current setup is, Rad going to top inlet of the reservoir and out of the bottom outlet to the pump, what happens is when i turn the computer off, all the air that is in reservoir goes out of the top inlet pushing air into the rad. also when computer turns on there is enough pressure that all the air gets pushed into reservoir and out into the pump for about 5 second i can hear the pump getting louder than back to normal.


I was talking about the front top port which from your pictures are not in use. There are two ports close to the top front. Are those just for filling or can be incorporated in the loop? Are you already using one of those?


----------



## ajmal21

my bad, they are fill ports.


----------



## ajmal21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> false
> I was talking about the front top port which from your pictures are not in use. There are two ports close to the top front. Are those just for filling or can be incorporated in the loop? Are you already using one of those?


this is how i have it setup. upper one is inlet, and lower left is outlet to the pump. i dont use the the top that the fill port


----------



## SinatraFan

Just fired her up for the first time!








A few bugs to work out, but she's a running! As soon as I get the bugs worked out... I'll take and post better piccys


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just fired her up for the first time!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few bugs to work out, but she's a running! As soon as I get the bugs worked out... I'll take and post better piccys


We need flash, I wanna see more! What case is that?

*edit* just looked at your build log. Will watch now


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> We need flash, I wanna see more! What case is that?


It's looks like two HAF X full tower cases that have been put together.


----------



## Hefner

So I was trying to buy the gentle typhoon earlier but it seems like they're all out of stock everywhere. Anyone know where to get some in europe?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's looks like two HAF X full tower cases that have been put together.


Yep, looked at his build log, and you are correct! :-D


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> So I was trying to buy the gentle typhoon earlier but it seems like they're all out of stock everywhere. Anyone know where to get some in europe?


I think it's over for GTs, but Nidec Servo has an office in Almere, phone them and ask who is the new distributor?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmal21*
> 
> this is how i have it setup. upper one is inlet, and lower left is outlet to the pump. i dont use the the top that the fill port


That's how mine is setup, but I have a led port on the bottom right port.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Finally got my FrozenCPU stuff today after almost 3 weeks shipping







damn USPS!

The frankenstein drain/intake I ended up going




Dont mind the crap pics need a new lens/better setup for this stuff









Also what res clamps would be good to mount ^ that fully assembled to my rad/fans using one/two of these Bitspower 120mm Water Tank Mount Panel?

Thanks


----------



## royce5950

I really dig that haf x 2 x 1 set up. I'd call it a "double-wide" (My mom works in the manufactured homes business, Thats what they call it when you have a manufactured home 2 x the size of a standard trailer, mobile home or manufactured home) Thats because they are delivered to the lot on 2 flat beds then attached together on the lot the buyer wants the home placed on.

Thats a sweet mod done there my man. I personally would have went with a caselabs or a corsair 540... But on the original side you da man


----------



## Gunderman456

Hi Folks;

By endless Stress Testing/Benching, I have proven that in upping VCore and if required in tandem with VCCIN you can reach previously unattainable overclocks on the GPU.

Please refer to the last two pages of "The Hawaiian Heat Wave" Build Log (in sig) for irrefutable proof!


----------



## VSG

What's new about that though? Upping core voltage always helps stabilize higher overclocks.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What's new about that though? Upping core voltage always helps stabilize higher overclocks.


Usually, many will overclock the CPU, once stable, move on to the GPU and get that stable and be done with it.

It has never occurred to me and perhaps many, to go back to the CPU and even though stable up the volts a little more and with that you'll find you can even go higher on that GPU overclock!


----------



## VSG

That makes no sense to me. I can understand upping the PCI-E lane voltage but why would raising cpu voltages past stable values affect GPU clocks? Is that extra power some sort of PCI-E aux power input as in a lot of motherboards these days? Anyway this isn't really fit in this thread.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That makes no sense to me. I can understand upping the PCI-E lane voltage but why would raising cpu voltages past stable values affect GPU clocks? Is that extra power some sort of PCI-E aux power input as in a lot of motherboards these days? Anyway this isn't really fit in this thread.


It would only help GPU clocks if the CPU wasn't actually stable @ those higher GPU clocks.


----------



## VSG

Pretty much, hence my point above. But no more of this lest B-Neg unleash magoo on us.


----------



## Gunderman456

Bold claim for sure, check the two pages though and see for yourself.

@ egg, that is something I theorized as well.

Please leave comments in the Hawaiian Build log and we'll discuss there.

*Update:*

In order to rule out the CPU instability theory, I ran the CPU at stock while maintaining the overclocks on the GPUs. Guess what, the MetroLL Bench failed anyways. So this proves it was not due to CPU instability.

With this test, it seems that my theory may have sprouted legs!

See the Hawaiian Heat Wave Build log, page 36 - post # 354 for the results.


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Just waster cooling my hard drives


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just waster cooling my hard drives


Its not like the run that hot in the first place, and didn't someone say that its better they run warm to hot?


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Its not like the run that hot in the first place, and didn't someone say that its better they run warm to hot?


Main reason I did this was quiet them down. Loudest thing in my case was the hard drives. With this water cooling enclosure makes it almost inaudible.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> Main reason I did this was quiet them down. Loudest thing in my case was the hard drives. With this water cooling enclosure makes it almost inaudible.


Huh, for some reason I haven't had a loud drive since I stopped using PATA drives. All the SATA drives I've owned have been pretty quiet, and they've gotten quieter over the years.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

I've never had a loud drive. Ever. Maybe i'm just lucky


----------



## Johnny Utah

Soon...

Any advice on what to do with the center stickers on the fans?

Also has anyone done a top inlet waterfall setup with the aqualis? The more I think about it the more I think I'm just going to end up filling the res.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It would only help GPU clocks if the CPU wasn't actually stable @ those higher GPU clocks.


Definitely this.


----------



## mus1mus

http://www.thinkcomputers.org/asus-announces-the-rog-ares-iii-graphics-card/ yum yum


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Teplous

Does anyone know where I can buy the Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2 80mm PWM fans?


----------



## royce5950

*I have a question regarding my tube reservoir,*

Model: Alphacool Cape Cyclone 250
Graphics card: MSI Geforce GTX 660 (N660 Twin Frozr OC Edition) 192-bit 2gb
Waterblock: EK gtx 660 Full Cover
Radiator: EK coolstream PE 240

Basically I get an average temp of 24c - 27c degrees idling and I usually end up with 29c under light load doing something like starting up a program or viewing bf4 servers. I get these readings on both evga precision X and msi afterburner. I havnt had a chance to actually overclock it and monitor the temps running a dual monitor setup. I usually run a second monitor through my 32" samsung HDTV I'm running a phobya dc12-400 pump. Its just a rebranded 12v EK pump from what I can tell. My cpu gets an average temp of 25c - 30c degrees and that loop has another coolstream PE 240 with an xspc res / pump combo its the x4 750 rev 4 or whatever and the block is an ek supremacy clean... basically its not the ddc model but its the last revision before they went to ddc combos. The question about the gpu loop is with the reservoir. The flow has the inlet at the top and the outlet at the bottom followed by the pump. The other loop for the cpu has a smaller reservoir for a fillport that is right after the cpu block and then goes into the xspc res pump combo, then ek rad, etc...

Ok, that is the run down of the system...

Now, My only question is if the smaller reservoir also uses the top for the inlet and the bottom as the outlet, why I can see the smaller res bubbling and flowing but the larger one just barely moves and you see a small amount of water movement in a slow cicular motion the whole time. The pump works and for example I've been using the computer for about 3 hours now doing random stuff, browsing ocn, looking up parts, talking to customers about rigs and crap... And after monitoring precision x every 15 - 20 minutes the temp average is the same and is currently 24c... both reservoirs have tubes inside of them that go from the inlet, down about 75% of the way into the reservoir so that no air is in the pump at all times. So I'm wondering if it is the size of the reservoirs? and that since there is so much more water in the larger reservoir at all times that once you reach the top of the reservoir gravity has calmed the water so that there isnt much to see in regards to bubbles and waves in comparison to the bubbling, waving and splashing of the smaller reservoir. Taking into consideration the temps of both components I'd say the pump must be working, but I'm not at ease like I am with the cpu loop. I'll probably put a flow meter in my next rig and the rest of my client builds so that no customers are curious like I am too lol.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> 
> 
> Soon...
> 
> Any advice on what to do with the center stickers on the fans?
> 
> Also has anyone done a top inlet waterfall setup with the aqualis? The more I think about it the more I think I'm just going to end up filling the res.


one solution: remove them and if its ugly underneath for instance it shows the circuitry or its the bare fan motor, go to the office supply store and buy blank adhesive sticker sheets that are in pre-cut circles and print your desired logos on them.

and another option is to just buy adhesive sheets then cut out the logos you printed with a circular hole punch the appropriate size for your fan. which ever are easier to locate. you could do either your fav company and get black adhesive paper then print with white ink. or you could do like me and find someone on craigslist who does custom die cut vinyl decals then your set. tell them your situation and you need circles non die cut. you want white or black background. the vinyl will be more official. you can even just go to the store and buy the sticker paper in black then cut out circles with no logos. but i know from experience. some fans are blank plastic under the stickers. some are ugly with the motor showing. feel the center and if its flat and firm its just blank black plastic. but if it pushes inward then its got some sort of circuitry showing or copper there... either way hope you figure out your prob.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Anyone here ever gold plate or electroplate a waterblocks copper heatsink? would it be safe?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Anyone here ever gold plate or electroplate a waterblocks copper heatsink? would it be safe?


Yes,as long as you do some research on the reactive qualities of the plating material.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> http://www.thinkcomputers.org/asus-announces-the-rog-ares-iii-graphics-card/ yum yum


1 OF 500







$$$$$







$$$$$$


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just fired her up for the first time!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few bugs to work out, but she's a running! As soon as I get the bugs worked out... I'll take and post better piccys


Very beautifull Sin. Looks like something you can order from an online store.


----------



## siffonen

Few parts came for my next update, this is how i am going to mount my reservoir, so that i dont need the ugly reservoir mounts:

















There will third similar mount for fillport, so that it is fastened from bottom and top.


----------



## mbed0123

The best fans I have ever tried have been the cougars from newegg....

140mm
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553007

120mm
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006

Currently 48 of them in my rig and it is "FAR" quieter than the one corsair fan I have for an inlet that I have yet to replace. And these fans are all turned up to the max off of a lamptron fc-8 hooked up to swiftech 8x1+pwm fan connectors and there are six of them going to the lamptron controller.

The quietest most efficient fans I have ever owned.

They're on a push pull on alphacool rads 60mm thick if that helps....


----------



## mbed0123

+ that rep baby!!

Great job......so damn pretty!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> 1 OF 500
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $$$$$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $$$$$$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'll take two to test, lol


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbed0123*
> 
> The best fans I have ever tried have been the cougars from newegg....
> 
> 140mm
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553007
> 
> 120mm
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006
> 
> Currently 48 of them in my rig and it is "FAR" quieter than the one corsair fan I have for an inlet that I have yet to replace. And these fans are all turned up to the max off of a lamptron fc-8 hooked up to swiftech 8x1+pwm fan connectors and there are six of them going to the lamptron controller.
> 
> The quietest most efficient fans I have ever owned.
> 
> They're on a push pull on alphacool rads 60mm thick if that helps....






I have to agree with this. I initially bought some Cougars years ago to replace a dead orange fan in a Thermaltake case and it is still running. Plus the noise to performance ratio is much better than the Corsair fans. I only use Cougars in my rads.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Few parts came for my next update, this is how i am going to mount my reservoir, so that i dont need the ugly reservoir mounts:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will third similar mount for fillport, so that it is fastened from bottom and top.


is this cold zero motherboard tray for 900d?


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is this cold zero motherboard tray for 900d?


Yes it is, its for extended atx mb.


----------



## VSG

Another vote for the Cougars, just got in 8 of them the other day and put them on the Black Ice SR1 560. They looks amazing and are pretty quiet. I love the added accessories and the sleeving already done too









Pictures soon in my build log (link in my sig below).


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> one solution: remove them and if its ugly underneath for instance it shows the circuitry or its the bare fan motor, go to the office supply store and buy blank adhesive sticker sheets that are in pre-cut circles and print your desired logos on them.
> 
> and another option is to just buy adhesive sheets then cut out the logos you printed with a circular hole punch the appropriate size for your fan. which ever are easier to locate. you could do either your fav company and get black adhesive paper then print with white ink. or you could do like me and find someone on craigslist who does custom die cut vinyl decals then your set. tell them your situation and you need circles non die cut. you want white or black background. the vinyl will be more official. you can even just go to the store and buy the sticker paper in black then cut out circles with no logos. but i know from experience. some fans are blank plastic under the stickers. some are ugly with the motor showing. feel the center and if its flat and firm its just blank black plastic. but if it pushes inward then its got some sort of circuitry showing or copper there... either way hope you figure out your prob.


There's a notch in the back where the wires go into the circuit board. I like your idea, but I was actually hoping to find out if someone were selling thick, case badge-like stickers. The paper sticker creased and doesn't really stick anymore since I peeled it back a bit when I was sleeving, so I'm hoping to find something more rigid.

I may end up just cutting up blank card stock or something similar. Thanks, again.


----------



## mus1mus

Cougar Dual-Xs for extreme silence!! I have 12 in my slim high fpi (black ice gts 360, XSPC ex360) radiators. A couple GPU fans at 75% totally mutes them!!

I run them at 19 Volts as well.. Still dead silent.. Only moving more air..

On that note, an XSPC 750 pump at 19 volts gives out no less than 30% flow. Or 2-3 degrees off load temps.


----------



## VSG

19 volts??


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 19 volts??


Yes.. Nineteen..







Totally safe.. Albeit the pump heats up faster than 12 Volts as expected.. But no issues after a week..

It's a suicide run so yeah...


----------



## VSG

How are you running those fans at 19V without the motor malfunctioning? The specs say they are tested for the usual max of 12 V.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How are you running those fans at 19V without the motor malfunctioning? The specs say they are tested for the usual max of 12 V.


Most controllers are made for voltages past that.. I'm not saying everything is though.. My tests gave out no issues..


----------



## VSG

Well that's news to me. I can't imagine fan manufacturers not advertising this unless if it isn't exactly safe for 24/7.

Any idea how much faster they run at 19V compared to 12V?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well that's news to me. I can't imagine fan manufacturers not advertising this unless if it isn't exactly safe for 24/7.
> 
> Any idea how much faster they run at 19V compared to 12V?


I can't read RPMs but they certainly move more air.. I can only give out comparisons though..

Yate Loons 2000 RPMs are 80+ CFMS.
Cougar Dual-Xs are 50+ CFMS stock..

Overvolt a Cougar and they will even up on my estimate..

To stay on topic, 750 pump can empty a tub of water with at least 30 Liters in 2:30 seconds at 12 Volts.
At 19V, it cut off the time to just 1:50 seconds.
Pump/ res Submerged in the tub, inlet and outlets were both 3/8 tubing. With the inlet at the bottom-est part of the tub. Outlet a foot higher than the base of the pump..


----------



## Puck

I ran 14v for years on my pumps and fans, but I would not do more then ~15v for 24/7 use.

Unless it is made for it like the 24v D5's, running a 12v electric motor at 19v for extended periods of time will decrease the lifespan.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> I ran 14v for years on my pumps and fans, but I would not do more then ~15v for 24/7 use.
> 
> Unless it is made for it like the 24v D5's, running a 12v electric motor at 19v for extended periods of time will decrease the lifespan.


I won't disagree


----------



## B NEGATIVE

My BACKPLATE HAS ARRIVED!!!!!111!!!!!!













Re did the graphics on the IO cover too







Now,finally,I can finish the loop off and the last bits and pieces.

Great success!


----------



## wh0kn0ws

That block looks amazing


----------



## Kimir

Really look stunning indeed!


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My BACKPLATE HAS ARRIVED!!!!!111!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re did the graphics on the IO cover too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now,finally,I can finish the loop off and the last bits and pieces.
> 
> Great success!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another vote for the Cougars, just got in 8 of them the other day and put them on the Black Ice SR1 560. They looks amazing and are pretty quiet. I love the added accessories and the sleeving already done too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures soon in my build log (link in my sig below).


30 Cougar CFD green led 140s (and one 120) reporting for duty











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Whisper quiet (except the noisy 120mm).


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My BACKPLATE HAS ARRIVED!!!!!111!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re did the graphics on the IO cover too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now,finally,I can finish the loop off and the last bits and pieces.
> 
> Great success!








Has anyone ever asked you to make one for them?







I've followed your log for that build since it started, I'm kinda interested too.

-Zepp


----------



## ds84

What brand of gpu block is that?


----------



## psycho84

Aquacomputer Kryographics


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My BACKPLATE HAS ARRIVED!!!!!111!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re did the graphics on the IO cover too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now,finally,I can finish the loop off and the last bits and pieces.
> 
> 
> Great success!


Fine piece of equipment there B Neg!


----------



## Neb9

I get a really high pitch whine with my D5 pump.
Does this happen to anyone else?

The only way to fix it that I found is to put foam/polystyrene around it that does not look too good.

Anyone know a fix for this. Or a better looking alternative to crude foam boxes.

The pump is inside the crude box of foam. And I am using two boxes to support my rad. Any ideas for that as well?


Also is it ok to run pumps dry?


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> I get a really high pitch whine with my D5 pump.
> Does this happen to anyone else?
> 
> The only way to fix it that I found is to put foam/polystyrene around it that does not look too good.
> 
> Anyone know a fix for this. Or a better looking alternative to crude foam boxes.
> 
> The pump is inside the crude box of foam. And I am using two boxes to support my rad. Any ideas for that as well?
> 
> 
> Also is it ok to run pumps dry?






You should never run your pump dry, it will kill the pump, sure if you are filling the loop and its empty for a moment that is not a problem but the cause for your whine could be damage caused by running the pump dry. Have you tried mounting the pump in a fixed location to remove vibrations?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> I get a really high pitch whine with my D5 pump.
> Does this happen to anyone else?
> 
> The only way to fix it that I found is to put foam/polystyrene around it that does not look too good.
> 
> Anyone know a fix for this. Or a better looking alternative to crude foam boxes.
> 
> The pump is inside the crude box of foam. And I am using two boxes to support my rad. Any ideas for that as well?
> 
> 
> Also is it ok to run pumps dry?


First off, it is never OK to run a pump while dry. The coolant lubricates the pump and therefore without coolant the pump can burn out very quickly. If you ran the pump while dry this could be the reason it's noisy. Also, the way you have the loop configured like that is going to make it very difficult to bleed and this is another reason for the pump to be noisy. Is there anywhere in your case that you can mount that radiator? If not you may want to look at an external mount solution like our Rad Box.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> First off, it is never OK to run a pump while dry.


Cannot stress this enough ^^^


----------



## waveaddict

If your using the NZXT 820 in your sig,you can put a 360 in the roof,and looks like maybe get rid of those 200mm fans could make room for your pump inside.Some pics of your case inside would help.


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> You should never run your pump dry, it will kill the pump, sure if you are filling the loop and its empty for a moment that is not a problem but the cause for your whine could be damage caused by running the pump dry. Have you tried mounting the pump in a fixed location to remove vibrations?


I ran that pump for a maximum of one minute while dry in and then a bit more while filling it (Probably 10 seconds max while filling it.)

And I cannot run it inside of my case because of the high pitch noise. The pitch is super high and most people cannot hear it. The majority of people under 25 can hear the noise on my pump but most people older than that cannot. The main thing I do not like about the noise is after being exposed to it for a while I get a whining noise in my ears, the same noise that you will get if you damage your ears. like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J08v0d7Fygg


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> I ran that pump for a maximum of one minute while dry in and then a bit more while filling it (Probably 10 seconds max while filling it.)
> 
> And I cannot run it inside of my case because of the high pitch noise. The pitch is super high and most people cannot hear it. The majority of people under 25 can hear the noise on my pump but most people older than that cannot. The main thing I do not like about the noise is after being exposed to it for a while I get a whining noise in my ears, the same noise that you will get if you damage your ears. like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J08v0d7Fygg


One minute is way too long for a pump to be ran while dry. Ten seconds is also too long. I can pretty much guarantee that your pump was damaged and this is why it's now producing a high pitched whine. Running these pumps while dry also voids their warranty in most cases. You might not be able to get it replaced now. You really need to pay closer attention to the instructions before using an industrial grade pump of this kind that isn't self-priming.


----------



## Gualichu04

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My BACKPLATE HAS ARRIVED!!!!!111!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re did the graphics on the IO cover too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now,finally,I can finish the loop off and the last bits and pieces.
> 
> Great success!





Did you make a custom plate for the gpu block? i have the nickel one with black plexi and could not find anything like yours. It does look very nice what you did to it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Did you make a custom plate for the gpu block? i have the nickel one with black plexi and could not find anything like yours. It does look very nice what you did to it.


Here's a few links from B Neg's 'CLOS3 IMPACT' buildlog:

New GPU block:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-maw-maw-derr-izaah-teevee-in-da-basement/320_20#post_21914762

First custom shroud:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-maw-maw-derr-izaah-teevee-in-da-basement/320_20#post_21919285

Final iteration:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-maw-maw-derr-izaah-teevee-in-da-basement/340_20#post_21952636

^--- that was almost 3 months ago & had been waiting on the backordered active cooling backplate ever since.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> I ran that pump for a maximum of one minute while dry in and then a bit more while filling it (Probably 10 seconds max while filling it.)
> 
> And I cannot run it inside of my case because of the high pitch noise. The pitch is super high and most people cannot hear it. The majority of people under 25 can hear the noise on my pump but most people older than that cannot. The main thing I do not like about the noise is after being exposed to it for a while I get a whining noise in my ears, the same noise that you will get if you damage your ears. like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J08v0d7Fygg


Industrial Velcro or M3 Duallock are great ways to decouple your pump.









Personally I am using the EKWB decoupling screws for my pump at the moment, and they aren't effective at all. I am going to use the M3 Duallock stuff when I'm done with my custom pump bracket.


----------



## TheAmusingNerd

Dirt cheap $140 CPU and GPU water cooling loop assembled with all Chinese parts.


----------



## Jeronbernal

what gpu block did you use o_o and what kind of cpu block is that?


----------



## TheAmusingNerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> what gpu block did you use o_o and what kind of cpu block is that?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1493974/140-cpu-and-gpu-waterloop#post_22370642 is my thread on the loop.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Question is there any matte black 7/16" tubing?

Getting kinda over the glossy primochill crap lol

Edit, also what are the clamps used on this thing?


----------



## Jakewat

Neoprene tubing is matte black, and I'm pretty sure ek and tygon both sell it for water cooling specific application and will be sure to have the size you need


----------



## ds84

So, he made a custom cover on top of his gpu block... Was wondering why didnt i see that design in AQC...


----------



## Majentrix

Your guys thoughts on Thermaltake entering the proper water cooling scene?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New toy.


----------



## VSG

I see they haven't corrected the typo yet. Is that a pre-release review item?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I see they haven't corrected the typo yet. Is that a pre-release review item?


Its a pre release field test unit,review comes much later.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1494084/ek-ascendacy-community-test-thread/0_20


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a pre release field test unit,review comes much later.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1494084/ek-ascendacy-community-test-thread/0_20


Interesting, can anyone post in that thread or just the testers?

So the copper bit is a flow meter?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its a block for the VRM.

The thread is primarily for the test group but you are all more than welcome to add your opinion and ask technical details.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Anyone know what clamps these are?



got the bracket just cant find jack on what clamps are compatible


----------



## lowfat

Looks like a Bitspower reservor w/ Bitspower clamps. Any clamp that uses 80mm spacing should work.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks like a Bitspower reservor w/ Bitspower clamps. Any clamp that uses 80mm spacing should work.


Thanks, couldnt find anything any where as to what damn clamps









Would these ones work Bitspower Tank Clamp Set BP-TBC4-BK?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks, couldnt find anything any where as to what damn clamps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would these ones work Bitspower Tank Clamp Set BP-TBC4-BK?


Assuming it fits your reservoir.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Assuming it fits your reservoir.


I got one of these Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 80 thingys


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I got one of these Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 80 thingys


Then why do you need to mount the reservoir to the radiator?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Then why do you need to mount the reservoir to the radiator?


got 2 brackets and gonna mount the res and pump combo thing in between both brackets on my front 240 rad so its hanging, just for something different


----------



## BlueWingedTiger

My buid isn't complete yet, (lot's of lil'things to do







)
but here are some pics of it


----------



## marcgarcia322

oops!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Aren't they Bitspower Z Tank Clamps?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlueWingedTiger*
> 
> My buid isn't complete yet, (lot's of lil'things to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> but here are some pics of it










purdy







nice to see a black and blue build
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Aren't they Bitspower Z Tank Clamps?


I think they are, does anyone know where to buy them? I cant seem to see them on FrozenCPU


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> purdy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice to see a black and blue build
> 
> I think they are, does anyone know where to buy them? I cant seem to see them on FrozenCPU


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36172


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I think they are, does anyone know where to buy them? I cant seem to see them on FrozenCPU


PPCS
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1161&products_id=36172&zenid=2b664d7d9f6397bdc4fbb17500194245

Unicr0nhunter 20 seconds before me


----------



## Unicr0nhunter




----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Thanks







to bad its $50 shipping for a single lot


----------



## paopaovocal

Testing MCP355 pump.It's strong enough for full watercool rig.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> Testing MCP355 pump.It's strong enough for full watercool rig.


My single 35X powers through all of this:


----------



## Shadowline2553

Just ordered this...

2 EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Backplate (100-PB-2781-B9)
$39.98

BitFenix Alchemy Aqua™ 15 LED Light Strip - 500mm - Red (BFA-AAL-50RK15-RP)
Selected Options
Sleeve The Cable(s): Yes (Select Sleeve Color Next) ($3.99)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Kobra High Density Black
$37.98

PrimoChill - Threaded G 1/4 Funnel - Black (PC-GF-BK)
$9.49

Monsoon Series Two Premium D5/MCP655 Dual Bay Reservoir w/Quick Change LED Control - Matte Black w/Red Trim (M2-D5P-RD)
Selected Options
Select Optional Color Kit: Reservoir Color kit - Red ($12.99)
Select a Swiftech MCP655 Pump: Swiftech MCP655-PWM ($94.99)
Sleeve The Cable(s): Yes (Select Sleeve Color Next) ($3.99)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Kobra High Density Black
Select Your Heatshrink Color: Black
$211.96

Item Total: $299.41
Shipping: $51.29
Tax: $0.00
Subtotal: $350.70
Discounts: -$13.23
Grand Total: $337.47

That stings... and my border duties will probably ding me as well...


----------



## rwisdaman

Not bad, my next order I am about to place is going to run me about $496 with shipping.

But my Ideas for the build are coming together so I can't wait to get started.


----------



## jpetrach

Off the wall question if I can find a way to seal my GPU in Acrylic can I run mineral oil through my water loop? using my CPU, RES, RAD as I do now just with the whole GPU incased in oil for cooling?

So could it work/ what is the heat transfer rate through a rad? or anyone ever attempted this?


----------



## Pimphare

Just ordered this...

2 EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Backplate (100-PB-2781-B9)
$39.98
@Shadowline2553

I hope that's the price for both.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Just ordered this...
> 
> 2 EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Backplate (100-PB-2781-B9)
> $39.98
> @Shadowline2553
> 
> I hope that's the price for both.


Yep that's two backplates for my 780 SCs.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Off the wall question if I can find a way to seal my GPU in Acrylic can I run mineral oil through my water loop? using my CPU, RES, RAD as I do now just with the whole GPU incased in oil for cooling?
> 
> So could it work/ what is the heat transfer rate through a rad? or anyone ever attempted this?


http://www.pugetsystems.com/submerged.php


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> http://www.pugetsystems.com/submerged.php


I saw them I guess I just have to stop beating my self up for buying a nonreference graphics card. Basically that's what this all boils down to.


----------



## Hefner

Does anyone have experience with this?
http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/121-large_default/laing-ddc-pump-18w-repair-pcb-wled-smd-soldered-mcp355.jpg

It's an upgrade PCB that supposedly makes your pump run more quiet. I'm tempted to try it since I have a spare DDC pump laying around. I cant find any info on it though


----------



## jtom320

I have a question. I'm trying to connect two Heatkiller 290 blocks in my 350D. Thank God I thought before I ordered because I realized there was no way I was going to be able to use the Dual link bridge with a 90 degree monsoon fitting in my 350D. Just not enough space under the second card because of the PSU. At least I'm pretty sure there isn't.

Regardless I want the HK blocks (or Aquacomputer but the backplate is never in stock) so I'm looking at alternative ways to connect them. There is a bitspower kit I'm pretty sure would work but I just thought I'd ask if anyone knew of a better way that fits in with those blocks.

Also I'm using chrome Monsoon fittings. If anyone knows if the silver sparkle would go with them please let me know. Otherwise I figured matte black for the connecting piece would look ok.

This is the kit. I'd be getting the two slot tubes to go with it.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10960/ex-tub-690/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Silver_Shining_BP-WTP-C48.html?tl=g30c101s873#blank

Real shame about the AC active backplate. They actually make a two slot terminal that I could use a 90 degree with but I can't wait a month. These 290s are ridiculously loud at stock speeds.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I have a question. I'm trying to connect two Heatkiller 290 blocks in my 350D. Thank God I thought before I ordered because I realized there was no way I was going to be able to use the Dual link bridge with a 90 degree monsoon fitting in my 350D. Just not enough space under the second card because of the PSU. At least I'm pretty sure there isn't.
> 
> Regardless I want the HK blocks (or Aquacomputer but the backplate is never in stock) so I'm looking at alternative ways to connect them. There is a bitspower kit I'm pretty sure would work but I just thought I'd ask if anyone knew of a better way that fits in with those blocks.
> 
> Also I'm using chrome Monsoon fittings. If anyone knows if the silver sparkle would go with them please let me know. Otherwise I figured matte black for the connecting piece would look ok.
> 
> This is the kit. I'd be getting the two slot tubes to go with it.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10960/ex-tub-690/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Silver_Shining_BP-WTP-C48.html?tl=g30c101s873#blank
> 
> Real shame about the AC active backplate. They actually make a two slot terminal that I could use a 90 degree with but I can't wait a month. These 290s are ridiculously loud at stock speeds.


Don't get this kit.

Instead order this one (or the silver if you want):
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html?id=WjDQckFx&mv_pc=286

and the crystal tube separately. The c48 is reported by users to not seal so good as the c47.

you might also consider this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22415/ex-tub-2510/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBEML.html?id=WjDQckFx&mv_pc=1071

they are a bit easier to work with since you have a cap just like any regular tube compression.

hope it helps.


----------



## jpetrach

I think i love this case. but I'm a 1 radiator kind of guy.



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811108456


----------



## wstanci3

^Love that clean look.
*Guys*,
Before I order parts for my watercooling gig, I was hoping you guys can do a once over to make sure all is in order. BTW, buying an assortment of different fittings because I want to see what I like and don't. Also, braided cables at first, going to do my own in the future.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







E: Also, already bought some GT AP-15s for a steal of $18/each for the rads. The Cougar is for the exhaust. I thought it lucked nice.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with this?
> http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/121-large_default/laing-ddc-pump-18w-repair-pcb-wled-smd-soldered-mcp355.jpg
> 
> It's an upgrade PCB that supposedly makes your pump run more quiet. I'm tempted to try it since I have a spare DDC pump laying around. I cant find any info on it though


They only sell the crappy pwm versions now.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I think i love this case. but I'm a 1 radiator kind of guy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811108456


Looks great but I bet temps will be really high in that case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They only sell the crappy pwm versions now.


Is it going to have any sort of benefit over the stock PCB of a DDC 3.2TP PWM?


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Looks great but I bet temps will be really high in that case.
> Is it going to have any sort of benefit over the stock PCB of a DDC 3.2TP PWM?


I doesn't have a lot of fan mounts. glass insulates. hum well I cant justify getting something that looks cool if ii have to loose on the temps side.


----------



## DarthBaggins

A cutting tool could sneak in some more vents


----------



## ozzy1925

my fittings from frozen cpu has just arrived thanks @Jameswalt1


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My single 35X powers through all of this:


Wermad can you please write the order of flow of your loop to have as an example please?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Looks great but I bet temps will be really high in that case.
> Is it going to have any sort of benefit over the stock PCB of a DDC 3.2TP PWM?


Not even close. They are terrible.The older Toshiba DIYINHK boards were awesome. But those ones now require a quantity of 50 for the minimum order.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Wermad can you please write the order of flow of your loop to have as an example please?


start from the reservoir and you can see how it goes. Reservoir>pump>Rads blow chamber>VGAs>1 Ram block> CPU>VRM>CHIPset>2 RAM block>to the back and top rads>front rad>reservoir


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> A cutting tool could sneak in some more vents


I was thinking that because the back plate is the pretty part and removable. so I think I would just extend the back plate punch outs down about 240 mm down.


----------



## sebkow

Little off topic anyone know where to get a sentry 3 in Canada? Looks like you cant....


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/install3_zpsff7f1f3f.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/DSC01873_zpsd0d0ce24.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/Picture032_zpsa63eac38.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/Picture033_zpsf0595454.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/installedinanhour_zps541c5445.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/installed4_zps6709ec3c.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/Picture043_zpse7cecb76.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/EVGA%20X58/MS011_zps7bb5362b.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/computer%20hardware%20an%20software/harddrive009_zps3034afc0.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/...e/Computer hardware/Photo0053_zps76d63c14.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/computer%20hardware%20an%20software/Computer%20hardware/Photo0053_zps76d63c14.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/BioStar%20photos/mine013_zps52e774eb.jpg

My current rig, has 2 asus 780 TI DC2OC, 3930K, RampageIV Extreme, 16GB 2133 Gskill Ripjaw-X Corsair AX1200

https://www.facebook.com/PhillysRepair/photos/a.323226821136047.1073741826.323222221136507/492951840830210/?type=1&theater


----------



## stickg1

Not a fan of clicking a dozen links. Maybe you can upload them to OCN, or use the bbcode that photobucket offers to show images. Just a suggestion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/install3_zpsff7f1f3f.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/DSC01873_zpsd0d0ce24.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/Picture032_zpsa63eac38.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/Picture033_zpsf0595454.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/installedinanhour_zps541c5445.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/installed4_zps6709ec3c.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/Picture043_zpse7cecb76.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/EVGA%20X58/MS011_zps7bb5362b.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/computer%20hardware%20an%20software/harddrive009_zps3034afc0.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/...e/Computer hardware/Photo0053_zps76d63c14.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/computer%20hardware%20an%20software/Computer%20hardware/Photo0053_zps76d63c14.jpg
> 
> http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m479/jaggerwild/ACHTUNG/BioStar%20photos/mine013_zps52e774eb.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> My current rig, has 2 asus 780 TI DC2OC, 3930K, RampageIV Extreme, 16GB 2133 Gskill Ripjaw-X Corsair AX1200
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/PhillysRepair/photos/a.323226821136047.1073741826.323222221136507/492951840830210/?type=1&theater


Ahem...

http://imgur.com/

Come back when you are ready.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ahem...
> 
> http://imgur.com/
> 
> Come back when you are ready.


Lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Here we go folks. Almost done. Aquaero 6 installed (with block and heat sink) and 2x D5 USB Aquacomputer + Shoggy sandwich (amazing decoupling thing. Nearly silent system). Within 2 weeks perhaps I will replace the Tygon with acrylic and perhaps a small 150 mm Aqualis reservoir and then will be the end of this build (next one with x99 in a 6 months to a year from now). Also waiting a couple more black compression (Bitspower) to replace the ones in the cpu block. Want to say thanks to all here in this thread I certainly learn a lot from you guys.

Hope you enjoy the pictures:


----------



## ozzy1925

this evening i tried to polish my blocks .sorry for the pic quality







taken by phone:


----------



## stickg1

Oh that's what the Shoggy Sandwich is used for.....I was always wondering that, lol.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh that's what the Shoggy Sandwich is used for.....I was always wondering that, lol.










Lol. It amazing mate. Really silence the two pumps.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh that's what the Shoggy Sandwich is used for.....I was always wondering that, lol.


Well, normally if you mount your pump onto your case, the case acts like a big speaker for the vibrations being given out by your pump (which is a lot). A good shoggy sandwich implementation breaks that chain of vibration. It REALLY helps, no matter what case you have. You can use stuff like open-cell foam and let your pump sit right on top of it. Doesn't even need to be screwed in.


----------



## jtom320

Does anyone know if normal bitspower or swiftech SLI connection pieces can be used with 2 290 kyrographics blocks? The bridge is too big for my 350d and the spacing on these blocks looks a bit different but I can't really find an answer anywhere.


----------



## Pimphare

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_766

@jtom320

Are you totally against using sli fittings such as Bitspower's? Another option as previously mentioned would be to use c47 fittings with crystal links.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_766
> 
> @jtom320
> 
> Are you totally against using sli fittings such as Bitspower's? Another option as previously mentioned would be to use c47 fittings withe crystal links.


No that's what I want to use I just want to make sure they would work with kyrographics blocks with a single slot in between.


----------



## Pimphare

@jtom320

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=27587

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_766&products_id=27584

This here should do the trick. I assuming you have one slot between the two blocks so that would count as a 2 slot spacing if I'm not mistaken. I haven't personally used this. Maybe someone else would like to chime in??


----------



## Jakusonfire

He's talking about how large the block ports are compared to others and if links will fit in between


Image by Nish2011

The ports that aren't made for active backplates aren't as thick but it might still be a bit of a squeeze using hard links like Aquapipes.

Edit: This guy is using d-plugs so it might be 20mm between ports
http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/11195-misterx-classic-v11


----------



## stickg1

Are those cards connected?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Wermad can you please write the order of flow of your loop to have as an example please?


Hello








Loop order:


MCP35X-EK DDC top + EK DDC heatsink/housing
UT60 560mm
UT60 560mm
4x EK Lightning 7970 blocks: semi parallel quad bridge
EK ram
EK Supremacy CSQ
EK RIVE (vrm)
EK RIVE (pch)
EK ram
UT60 280mm
UT60 280mm
UT60 420mm
FrozenQ Qaud Fusion 250mm reservoir


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> this evening i tried to polish my blocks .sorry for the pic quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> taken by phone:


That looks fantastic. Did you just use a cloth and rub it out?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> That looks fantastic. Did you just use a cloth and rub it out?


yea just plastx and microfiber cloth thanks to @MrBlunt


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop order:
> 
> 
> MCP35X-EK DDC top + EK DDC heatsink/housing
> UT60 560mm
> UT60 560mm
> 4x EK Lightning 7970 blocks: semi parallel quad bridge
> EK ram
> EK Supremacy CSQ
> EK RIVE (vrm)
> EK RIVE (pch)
> EK ram
> UT60 280mm
> UT60 280mm
> UT60 420mm
> FrozenQ Qaud Fusion 250mm reservoir


I would love to know what flow rates you get. I guess it helps that you don't have any QDs or a lot of angled fittings either.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> He's talking about how large the block ports are compared to others and if links will fit in between
> 
> 
> Image by Nish2011
> 
> The ports that aren't made for active backplates aren't as thick but it might still be a bit of a squeeze using hard links like Aquapipes.
> 
> Edit: This guy is using d-plugs so it might be 20mm between ports
> http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/11195-misterx-classic-v11


Yes this is my worry. However due to it never being in stock I'm giving up on the active backplate for now. I just want tomake sure the connection piece I get is small enough. I ccan't really find an answer.

Bitspower has an 11 to 18mm connection I think may work I was hoping to verify that before I bought something.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Yes this is my worry. However due to it never being in stock I'm giving up on the active backplate for now. I just want tomake sure the connection piece I get is small enough. I ccan't really find an answer.
> 
> Bitspower has an 11 to 18mm connection I think may work I was hoping to verify that before I bought something.


Yeah the shortest Aquapipe should be OK. Crystal links are about 10mm each which wouldn't leave much room for tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I would love to know what flow rates you get. I guess it helps that you don't have any QDs or a lot of angled fittings either.


Have no clue but I wish I had a flow meter to test it


----------



## lowfat

Flow rate is overrated. As long as your clocks are stable is all that matters. The extra 2 degrees you get from 0.5 GPM to 2 GPM ain't going to gain you anything.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Flow rate is overrated. As long as your clocks are stable is all that matters. The extra 2 degrees you get from 0.5 GPM to 2 GPM ain't going to gain you anything.


Maybe an inch and a half in e-peen!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Flow rate is overrated. *As long as your clocks are stable* is all that matters. The extra 2 degrees you get from 0.5 GPM to 2 GPM ain't going to gain you anything.


That right there is why it matters to me. When benching, I have noticed a tremendous effect of 0.4-0.5 GPM compared to the 1 GPM max that I get.


----------



## wermad

I'm more curious how flow is entering the res vs exiting the pump.

I'm also curious how the pump will do once hooked up to the Ascendacy controller.


----------



## Pimphare

@jtom320

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3000

Works with one or two unused slot between the PCIe slots.








Looks like you can move the thin metal plate to where you need it for the proper spacing.

Hope this helps.









Edit: I found one at Frozencpu if you need it stateside. I'm at work on my mobile so I can't see your information.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20787/ex-blc-1486/Aquacomputer_Kryoconnect_Kit_for_Kryographics_-_1-2_Slot_23551.html?tl=c101s873b200#blank


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got a quick question about tubing, this Tygon tube will work with Bitspower 1/2" barbs wont it?, just a bit confused with the OD size it says

Also does it have plasticizer problems like some of the Primochill stuff?

Thanks


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @jtom320
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3000
> 
> Works with one or two unused slot between the PCIe slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


My issue is that I don't think I will be able to fit a 90 degree fitting underneath it in my 350d. Soggy told me I could put both fittings on top but I'm not sure on how that would look.


----------



## JySzE

Anyone else hear about noctua's new all black fans? I was sad until i learned you can take the brown anti vibration rubber mounts off the corners.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=industrialppc





Spoiler: Will buy



http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=80&lng=en


----------



## VSG

Do you have a need to run them at 3000 RPM or the dust/waterproof certification? Or is it simply a case of you wanting Noctua fans only now that they are available in black (at an exorbitant price)?


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Do you have a need to run them at 3000 RPM or the dust/waterproof certification? Or is it simply a case of you wanting Noctua fans only now that they are available in black (at an exorbitant price)?


No i won't run them that high i just like the option to if i ever want to.

The dust/waterproof certificate is just a addition that would be beneficial to the fan itself.

I've had noctua fans before when i had a case with no side window. I loved the fans performance. But not the look at all.

I just care alot about aesthetics and prefer a non poop colored fan.









Price doesnt matter to me.


----------



## Pimphare

@jtom320

You can plug both bottom holes and use the top two as inlet and outlet.

Edit: I think you can do one card this way. Not sure about two. Seems like it would be the same as parallel though.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Got a quick question about tubing, this Tygon tube will work with Bitspower 1/2" barbs wont it?, just a bit confused with the OD size it says
> 
> Also does it have plasticizer problems like some of the Primochill stuff?
> 
> Thanks


does not look like correct to me. 7/16 ID is 1.11 cm while a 1/2" is 1.27 cm. If you are using barbs like that you need a 1/2 " ID tube. Something like this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34897

or this

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34896


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> does not look like correct to me. 7/16 ID is 1.11 cm while a 1/2" is 1.27 cm. If you are using barbs like that you need a 1/2 " ID tube. Something like this:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34897
> 
> or this
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34896


Didnt think it was right







oh well I'll just stick to Primochill lol


----------



## ds84

Guys, any idead when PPC would be having another promo coupon? I am not from USA, so i am not familar with the holidays there. Thanks.

Also, does AQC have any discount coupons before?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Guys, any idead when PPC would be having another promo coupon? I am not from USA, so i am not familar with the holidays there. Thanks.
> 
> Also, does AQC have any discount coupons before?


Probably around the 4th of July. (7/4/14)

As for AQC, i have no idea, sorry


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Guys, any idead when PPC would be having another promo coupon? I am not from USA, so i am not familar with the holidays there. Thanks.
> 
> Also, does AQC have any discount coupons before?


I believe PPC is still offering the OCN55 promo code that gives you 5% off.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Probably around the 4th of July. (7/4/14)
> 
> As for AQC, i have no idea, sorry


Thanks, may wait till then to purchase my fittings...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I believe PPC is still offering the OCN55 promo code that gives you 5% off.


yeah, i know about that, but was hoping for those bigger discounts like 8%. Cheers.


----------



## heatPL

My TJ07 build















More Pics :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatPL*
> 
> My TJ07 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That thing is full of Sexy!


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatPL*
> 
> My TJ07 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Aaannndd my pants are ruined. 4th rig in this thread that's done that









Joking aside, that's _stellar_ work mate. Good job.

-Zepp


----------



## Audiophile1178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatPL*
> 
> My TJ07 build


It looks like you could cut the grass with the bottom rad fans!


----------



## Gualichu04

I have this small issue about filling the resevoir for my loop. I was thinking a 90 degree fitting to fill from the other side of the case or somehow stressing the tubing when its all connected to fill it. Here is a pic of the setup without the two r9 290x installed yet. I did buy a 90 degree to connect the res to the cpu block and other fittings to make connections better looking.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I think i love this case. but I'm a 1 radiator kind of guy.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811108456


I love that case. Just the other day I saw this kid trying to convince his dad to buy one of those while I was at Frys. I'm not sure what the outcome was, but it did seem like he might have persuaded him.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatPL*
> 
> My TJ07 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn, that is beautiful. Like drop-dead gorgeous.

Although what PCIe riser card did you use for it?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> I have this small issue about filling the resevoir for my loop. I was thinking a 90 degree fitting to fill from the other side of the case or somehow stressing the tubing when its all connected to fill it. Here is a pic of the setup without the two r9 290x installed yet. I did buy a 90 degree to connect the res to the cpu block and other fittings to make connections better looking.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks to me like you should have no trouble filling through the fill port using a squeeze-type filling/wash bottle. I've used one to get to a fill port that only had 17mm of clearance between the top of the res and the fan on the rad above it, similar to yours but ~ half the space.



http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=Wash+Bottle
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=Wash+Bottle

tip: if you can get a 500ml / 16 oz one or larger.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks to me like you should have no trouble filling through the fill port using a squeeze-type filling/wash bottle. I've used one to get to a fill port that only had 17mm of clearance between the top of the res and the fan on the rad above it, similar to yours but ~ half the space.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=Wash+Bottle
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=Wash+Bottle
> 
> tip: if you can get a 500ml / 16 oz one or larger.


Oh man i feel silly. I have one that i used to use and i been so used to filling it it a funnel i forgot about that. Thank you so much. Mine came with some coolant i bought long ago.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatPL*
> 
> My TJ07 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Here's my reaction.


So many questions:
1. No build log?
2. Painted E-loops? Does it affect the performance & noise?
3. What riser card?
4. Chrome plated copper pipes or stainless steel?


----------



## Hefner

That TJ07 is gorgeous! That PCIe riser card just adds so much awesomeness to the build.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatPL*
> 
> My TJ07 build










wow that looks so beautiful with the polished tubing and nickel blocks! Did you spray paint the eloops?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatPL*
> 
> My TJ07 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks really good mate....


----------



## jpetrach

Nice. Clean. Beautiful. Well don sir


----------



## Kimir

That TJ is beautiful!
I always up vote e-loop. <3


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Loop time!











That one tucked at the back has 6 bends in it.....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-maw-maw-derr-izaah-teevee-in-da-basement/520_20#post_22373501


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop time!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That one tucked at the back has 6 bends in it.....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-maw-maw-derr-izaah-teevee-in-da-basement/520_20#post_22373501


Looks great B Neg!! Aquacomputer sure has an awesome line of products. The flow rate sensor is so sleek and streamlined! (no pun intended)
Nothing but pure pron in this box!


----------



## heatPL

Thx for comments !








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Here's my reaction.
> 
> 
> So many questions:
> 1. No build log?
> 2. Painted E-loops? Does it affect the performance & noise?
> 3. What riser card?
> 4. Chrome plated copper pipes or stainless steel?












1. Only in my native language http://forum.pclab.pl/topic/954589-Silverstone-TJ07/
2. Yep, they are painted with normal silver spray. Performance and noise are the same, i've used Phobya Black Eloops 1000rpm, but the bearnings in all eloops (phobya, alphacool,nb) are the same.
3. Something like this : http://risers.ru/images/riser_PCI_E_16x-16x.jpg but mine is painted with black plasti dip + i made custom cover for the pci-e slot








4. Chrome plated copper pipes


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Loop time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That one tucked at the back has 6 bends in it.....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-maw-maw-derr-izaah-teevee-in-da-basement/520_20#post_22373501


Salivating!!!


----------



## Shadowline2553

Anybody know where I can get my hands on a pair of EVGA GTX 780 HydroCopper blocks for reference design cards? Mine are 780 SCs and I am curious about putting them on water. I already have a pair of 780 backplates on order but the blocks themselves are eluding me.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Got a quick question about tubing, this Tygon tube will work with Bitspower 1/2" barbs wont it?, just a bit confused with the OD size it says
> 
> Also does it have plasticizer problems like some of the Primochill stuff?
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> does not look like correct to me. 7/16 ID is 1.11 cm while a 1/2" is 1.27 cm. If you are using barbs like that you need a 1/2 " ID tube. Something like this:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34897
> 
> or this
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34896


Not entirely true. You can use 7/16" ID tubes on 1/2" barbs, it will just be a lot tighter getting the tube on the barn. But that will also give you the option of not using hose clamps because of the extra tightness


----------



## heatPL

Thx for comments!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Here's my reaction.
> 
> So many questions:
> 1. No build log?
> 2. Painted E-loops? Does it affect the performance & noise?
> 3. What riser card?
> 4. Chrome plated copper pipes or stainless steel?












1. Only in my native language : LINK
2. Yes, painted with standard silver spray. Performance & noise are the same
3. Something similar to : LINK painted with black plasti-dip + black cover for the pci-e slot
4. Chrome plated copper pipes


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not entirely true. You can use 7/16" ID tubes on 1/2" barbs, it will just be a lot tighter getting the tube on the barn. But that will also give you the option of not using hose clamps because of the extra tightness


Exactly, I did a loop with 1/2" barbs and 7/16" ID tubing, tighter than a, well you know...



I do have some clamps on the tubes going in and out of the mobo VRM block because those were fixed 3/8" barbs so I had to use a 3/8" ID tube for those two runs.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Exactly, I did a loop with 1/2" barbs and 7/16" ID tubing, tighter than a, well you know...
> 
> 
> 
> I do have some clamps on the tubes going in and out of the mobo VRM block because those were fixed 3/8" barbs so I had to use a 3/8" ID tube for those two runs.


good stuff right here, mayne!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And she is filled.....


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And she is filled.....

















White loops are stunning.

Also your 8 pin doesn't look pushed in all the way.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







:O Looks weird could be wrong tho.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its not,I had them all out for loop fill,well spotted


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not,I had them all out for loop fill,well spotted










Just wanted to bring it to your attention, to avoid inconvenience.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not entirely true. You can use 7/16" ID tubes on 1/2" barbs, it will just be a lot tighter getting the tube on the barn. But that will also give you the option of not using hose clamps because of the extra tightness


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Exactly, I did a loop with 1/2" barbs and 7/16" ID tubing, tighter than a, well you know...
> 
> 
> 
> I do have some clamps on the tubes going in and out of the mobo VRM block because those were fixed 3/8" barbs so I had to use a 3/8" ID tube for those two runs.


I stand corrected then.


----------



## stickg1

Swiftech MCR220-DRIVE REV3 Dual 120mm Radiator w/ Integrated Pump
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_709&products_id=29154

Has anyone used this? The specs sheet make it look like it's a PWM MCP-35X right? Would this be easily mounted to the front of my Mercury S3?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Swiftech MCR220-DRIVE REV3 Dual 120mm Radiator w/ Integrated Pump
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_709&products_id=29154
> 
> Has anyone used this? The specs sheet make it look like it's a PWM MCP-35X right? Would this be easily mounted to the front of my Mercury S3?


I'm gonna assume that it's a basic MCP pump, not a PWM variant hence the "B" in the MCR220-DRIVE-B which is shown on the picture if you click to zoom in on it.

Contact swiftech maybe or PPCS?

-Zepp


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I'm gonna assume that it's a basic MCP pump, not a PWM variant hence the "B" in the MCR220-DRIVE-B which is shown on the picture if you click to zoom in on it.
> 
> Contact swiftech maybe or PPCS?
> 
> -Zepp


Thanks for the reply, I think it is a PWM pump, the specs on PPCs and Swiftechs site say PWM pump. This would be really handy for a small case like the Mercury S3. I think I might do it. And I might even grab the Apogee HD block and some barbs and do the undersized tubing no clamp method again. It's so effective in terms of performance and cost. Maybe some yellow tubing. I might hold off on getting a block for this R9 280X though, to be honest most of them look like sack. Maybe I will hound the marketplace for a used one, if I can get one for $75 or so the poor aesthetics wouldn't bother me that much.


----------



## wermad

Have about the apogee drive ii? Real space saver


----------



## jtom320

Ok I've figured out all the sizes and lengths of everything I'm going to need but I cannot decide between these two blocks.

On one hand I absolutely love the Aquacomputer look. I don't like that the active backplate is basically not ever in stock. But the passive is ok. As a bonus Shoggy is a really good rep who answered a lot of questions.

On the other hand the Heatkiller block is nice looking and the backplate I absolutely love. I've also been told the build quality is about as good as it gets on these and I won't go back if I buy one.

Someone make the decision for me. I actually was checking out with the AC on my phone this morning but my phone wouldn't work with paypal and since them I'm reconsidering now. Next person with an opinion I'll go with you.

Pics.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Ok I've figured out all the sizes and lengths of everything I'm going to need but I cannot decide between these two blocks.
> 
> On one hand I absolutely love the Aquacomputer look. I don't like that the active backplate is basically not ever in stock. But the passive is ok. As a bonus Shoggy is a really good rep who answered a lot of questions.
> 
> On the other hand the Heatkiller block is nice looking and the backplate I absolutely love. I've also been told the build quality is about as good as it gets on these and I won't go back if I buy one.
> 
> Someone make the decision for me. I actually was checking out with the AC on my phone this morning but my phone wouldn't work with paypal and since them I'm reconsidering now. Next person with an opinion I'll go with you.
> 
> Pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have the copper aquacomputer block, and i love it! I will never go back


----------



## wermad

Reverse or horizon mb, get the AC


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> I have the copper aquacomputer block, and i love it! I will never go back


Ok then Aquacomputer it is. I'll actually be getting the nickel but good to know.

Looks great in that guys build above as well. I guess I'll just get the block now and wait for the backplate. If I do the Aquacomputer I definitely want the active backplate.

Edit: Does anyone know what matches Chrome moonsoon compression fittings more?

Bitspower silver shining or Swiftech chrome Lok Seals?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Ok then Aquacomputer it is. I'll actually be getting the nickel but good to know.
> 
> Looks great in that guys build above as well. I guess I'll just get the block now and wait for the backplate. If I do the Aquacomputer I definitely want the active backplate.
> 
> Edit: Does anyone know what matches Chrome moonsoon compression fittings more?
> 
> Bitspower silver shining or Swiftech chrome Lok Seals?


I am also waiting for the active backplate


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Have about the apogee drive ii? Real space saver


I was looking at that, I'm not crazy about how it looks and the radiator/pump combo they offer seems like it would be really simple to fill your loop. It would basically just be like fulling and running a tube res on top of a pump top. I might not even need a reservoir unless I want one for looks.

I think I will pick up the gear for a CPU loop then wait to see what I can find second hand to add the GPU.

I'm not sure I fully understand this thing see those two ports between the intake and output of the pump/rad? In the following picture they somehow used those, does it circulate the water through the radiator again? And why is there 4 tubes coming out of the CPU block?













EDIT: I think I get it, it has three intakes. I don't think I would take advantage of that feature though. I would likely go PUMP>GPU>CPU>RAD.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was looking at that, I'm not crazy about how it looks and the radiator/pump combo they offer seems like it would be really simple to fill your loop. It would basically just be like fulling and running a tube res on top of a pump top. I might not even need a reservoir unless I want one for looks.
> 
> I think I will pick up the gear for a CPU loop then wait to see what I can find second hand to add the GPU.


I have the Glacer 240L pump/cpu combo (Pretty much the same thing), and i added a res just for looks







Other than that, you don't need one.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*


Awesomeness! What about the vibrations? DDC pumps can be really noisy.


----------



## stickg1

I plan on running the pump on 50% or less for my tiny loop. Perhaps I'll pick up some slightly longer rad screws and a few rubber washers. Maybe even a full rubber radiator gasket? Oh boy the juices are flowing!


----------



## ehhwhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatPL*
> 
> My TJ07 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mmmmmmmm........ Delicious. Pretty pimp ass peckerwood pc playboy


----------



## iandroo888




----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm not sure I fully understand this thing see those two ports between the intake and output of the pump/rad? In the following picture they somehow used those, does it circulate the water through the radiator again? And why is there 4 tubes coming out of the CPU block?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I think I get it, it has three intakes. I don't think I would take advantage of that feature though. I would likely go PUMP>GPU>CPU>RAD.


Yep. The CPU block has three outlets, and the rad has three inlets. The idea is that the more restrictive MB blocks are run parallel, so as not to impede the main flow from CPU->GPU->RAD


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yep. The CPU block has three outlets, and the rad has three inlets. The idea is that the more restrictive MB blocks are run parallel, so as not to impede the main flow from CPU->GPU->RAD


Gotcha, so since I just run CPU and GPU I would just plug the extra two ports on the CPU block and run it like a normal loop with no parallel? I could always experiment with running the GPU in parallel I guess. I'm not 100% sold on the Apogee HD yet though, although the $50 price tag at FCPU is enticing. The next on my list is the EK Supremacy Clean Acetal which looks to be $65-$70.

What I really can't decide on is barbs and undersized tubing or compression fittings. I almost certainly decided on 7/16x5/8 or 3/8x5/8 fittings either way. I thought the 3/4" OD was a little big last time around and would probably be a pain to work with in the tight bends I would need in my S3.

I think compressions look nicer, but will double my expense in fittings at minimum. Probably more like triple/quadruple the cost because after using a few brands I'm partial to the Bitspower compressions, which as we all know are not cheap. But barbs, Swiftech sells a 2 pack for $4...That's $16 for my fittings provided I can get away with not having to use rotary angle adapters.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


How did u mount 2 right angled fittings on ur cpu? Did u get the rotary fittings and tighten in by turning the rotary part only?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Gotcha, so since I just run CPU and GPU I would just plug the extra two ports on the CPU block and run it like a normal loop with no parallel? I could always experiment with running the GPU in parallel I guess. I'm not 100% sold on the Apogee HD yet though, although the $50 price tag at FCPU is enticing. The next on my list is the EK Supremacy Clean Acetal which looks to be $65-$70.
> 
> What I really can't decide on is barbs and undersized tubing or compression fittings. I almost certainly decided on 7/16x5/8 or 3/8x5/8 fittings either way. I thought the 3/4" OD was a little big last time around and would probably be a pain to work with in the tight bends I would need in my S3.
> 
> I think compressions look nicer, but will double my expense in fittings at minimum. Probably more like triple/quadruple the cost because after using a few brands I'm partial to the Bitspower compressions, which as we all know are not cheap. But barbs, Swiftech sells a 2 pack for $4...That's $16 for my fittings provided I can get away with not having to use rotary angle adapters.


Stickg1 Swiftech is releasing a h220x kit soon. Pump, cpu block, rad and reservoir in a small package:

Some pictures here:

http://www.techsweden.org/content/nyheter/swiftech-visar-upp-h220x-modul%C3%A4r-vattenkylning-r4724

I remember people saying that kit you have your eyes on it are a bit on the noise side due to the pump being attached to the rad. But I guess you can always decouple it. The H220x should be around US$149.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> How did u mount 2 right angled fittings on ur cpu? Did u get the rotary fittings and tighten in by turning the rotary part only?


When I had two 90 degree fittings side by side like that, that's what I had to do. Tighten half a turn, rotate, tighten half turn, rotate, etc... Pain in the rear, but the only way to make it work


----------



## ledzepp3

So I'm having a really weird issue with my Bitspower D5 reservoir. The flat piece with the raised threads (where the pump top and reservoir mount together) has started wearing away. I have the acetal version and it's only on the two edges at the front. There's no leaking at all, but it's gotten so bad I can see the screw that keeps the res mount to the pump top. Any idea what this is?









-Zepp


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> When I had two 90 degree fittings side by side like that, that's what I had to do. Tighten half a turn, rotate, tighten half turn, rotate, etc... Pain in the rear, but the only way to make it work


use right angle adaptors.


----------



## stickg1

So I was eyeing that Swiftech Radiator/Pump/Res combo, and trying to find reviews and info about the noise that people have mentioned. Then since I was considering getting a Swiftech CPU block I found this kit:

Swiftech H20-220 EDGE HD Series Liquid Cooling Kit
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14569/ex-wat-185/Swiftech_H20-220_EDGE_HD_Series_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_-_Black_CPU_Block_Universal_Mount.html?tl=g30c321s818

Comes with the combo, CPU block, a couple barbs, tubing, fans, and coolant. Pretty good deal really, as long as it works the way it's supposed to.

But then I found THIS kit...

Swiftech H20-220 Elite Series Liquid Cooling Kit
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17738/ex-wat-231/Swiftech_H20-220_Elite_Series_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_-_Universal_Mount_H2O-220-Elite.html?tl=g30c321s818

Included:
MCR220-QP Res R2 dual 120mm Radiator
Apogee Drive II cpu waterblock including
Tim Mate 2 thermal compound
(2) Helix 120mm PWM fans
(4) Lok-Seal 1/2" x 3/4" black compressions fittings
(1) 8-way PWM splitter
Upper panel fill-port finishing hardware pack
(1) 1/2 liter pre-mixed HydrX coolant
(6) feet 3/4" OD x 1/2" Clear Tubing
Funnel

Of course it has the Apogee Drive II CPU block/pump. Anyone have anything to say about that product? Noise? Reliability? Seems like a pretty solid deal considering I would only need 2 more compressions for my GPU block and I'd have a full loop. Although I still haven't figured out how I would fill the loop. I might have to put a small reservoir in the loop somewhere above the level of the pump to help me out.

What do you veterans think between the two kits linked above? Either of them any good?

EDIT:

@WiSK - Didn't you have an Apogee Drive II that you fit one of those EK DDC heatsinks on? Could you repost that picture? The one thing about the Apogee Drive II is that it doesn't really appeal to me aesthetically like the Apogee HD. But I remember it looking much sharper with a different heatsink.


----------



## lowfat

I personally do not like the pump over CPU blocks. They vibrate too much and can be very difficult to bleed. I had an Apogee Drive 2 that I used one and I didn't like it enough to use it again.

IMHO pumps should always be decoupled. With the combo units this really isn't possible.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I just really like how it keeps things neat and compact. There isn't a whole lot of space in this case. I can't really think of anywhere I can squeeze a D5 and tube res in this S3. Or can I?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatPL*
> 
> My TJ07 build


Nice!









This build reminds me of something!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I just really like how it keeps things neat and compact. There isn't a whole lot of space in this case. I can't really think of anywhere I can squeeze a D5 and tube res in this S3. Or can I?


Others seem to have managed. Perhaps one of these will give you some ideas ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Mercury S3 - Completed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log @ http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/56428-project-mercury-caselabs-s3-watercooled-gtx-titan-completed/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> just to show my latest build with a Caselabs S3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> S3 fans..I'm in the CaseModContest build of the month contest...any support would be greatly appreciated..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the link
> 
> Photos of the build...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> You're not going to get anything much thicker than 25mm fans _inside_ the flex bay. Do you mean _onto_ the flex bay with the fans inside?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That's mine, with a 120.2 and fans in front, and a 140.1 with P/P up top in the drop-in.
> 
> Maybe that can help you gauge your space!
> 
> Thanks - T


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> So I'm having a really weird issue with my Bitspower D5 reservoir. The flat piece with the raised threads (where the pump top and reservoir mount together) has started wearing away. I have the acetal version and it's only on the two edges at the front. There's no leaking at all, but it's gotten so bad I can see the screw that keeps the res mount to the pump top. Any idea what this is?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Any ideas guys? It's seriously starting to puzzle me


----------



## Qu1ckset

No that you can't get AP15s anymore what's the go to fan now?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> How did u mount 2 right angled fittings on ur cpu? Did u get the rotary fittings and tighten in by turning the rotary part only?


i just held it in place and turned it actually... when i couldnt turn it anymore, i wrapped a double-layed paper towel around fitting and used adjustable pliers to slowly turn it until tight without screwing up the finish

cuz it was so close, i had to get the length of the entire piece correct. so each "link" is made .. so i had to keep it in place while mounting it on the block


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> No that you can't get AP15s anymore what's the go to fan now?


Dazmode's still got AP-45s for a reasonable price.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> @WiSK - Didn't you have an Apogee Drive II that you fit one of those EK DDC heatsinks on? Could you repost that picture? The one thing about the Apogee Drive II is that it doesn't really appeal to me aesthetically like the Apogee HD. But I remember it looking much sharper with a different heatsink.


 

If you want to use the included M4 screws from EK, then you need to have a M4 tap, otherwise you are stuck with the self-tapping wood screws from Swiftech.

I know what Lowfat is saying about decoupling, but at low speed, the pump is pretty quiet, and you only really need 30-40% PWM for a small loop.

On the other hand, Unicornhunter has shown some excellent examples of well thought-out pump placements. I use AD2s because I build in tiny cases, but with something as roomy as the S3, I'd splash out on a D5


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Others seem to have managed. Perhaps one of these will give you some ideas ...


Yeah I figured it would just have to sit in between the front radiator and PSU. I wonder how loud the pump integrated in the radiator actually is? My MCP-355 was pretty loud but I put some rubber feet on it and reduced the voltage so it was running 70% and it was near silent *quiet enough for me*. I was thinking I could do something similar with the Swiftech solution, only using rubber washers and since it's a PWM pump I should have no trouble reducing the speed. IDK I just really didn't want a D5 facing down so I can't even access the speed control once it's installed, then a tube res on top of it interrupting the airflow through the case. I think I might have the pump separately on the bottom of the case (looking at D5's but might pick up a 35X).

I'll do some more research. I won't buy anything for a few weeks anyway.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> No that you can't get AP15s anymore what's the go to fan now?


I'm using Delta AFBs. Yes they are super loud at high RPM but on a fan controller they are nice and silent and there static pressure is still as good or better then just about anything else.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I'm using Delta AFBs. Yes they are super loud at high RPM but on a fan controller they are nice and silent and there static pressure is still as good or better then just about anything else.


what controller are you using I have several 120/140 deltas and there great for clearing the drive way in the fall (leafs) but burned up the small controller that came with a different fan I had got.

other news I ordered this from china about 3 weeks ago. got it today when I get home ill tear it down and let you know if its any good.
I got it for GPU after the aluminum scare you guys gave me.
cost: 20.00 with shipping
shipping time ~forever
mfg: China

I am trying to find out couple things.
are the barbs removable?
How much is copper? what other material?
Flow rate.

I'm a budget modder so trying to help others out.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Anybody know where I can get my hands on a pair of EVGA GTX 780 HydroCopper blocks for reference design cards? Mine are 780 SCs and I am curious about putting them on water. I already have a pair of 780 backplates on order but the blocks themselves are eluding me.


Sorry for the late response, but we have them on our website. They aren't the EVGA branded ones, but they are the exact same blocks that EVGA uses.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Looking forward to replacing my existing blocks with these babies. I've never done RAM blocks before, let alone customizing a water block on this scale, so it'll be interesting to see the end result once they're all installed. (pics to follow of course).

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2460.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2456.jpg.html


----------



## jpetrach

durp


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> what controller are you using I have several 120/140 deltas and there great for clearing the drive way in the fall (leafs) but burned up the small controller that came with a different fan I had got.
> 
> other news I ordered this from china about 3 weeks ago. got it today when I get home ill tear it down and let you know if its any good.
> I got it for GPU after the aluminum scare you guys gave me.
> cost: 20.00 with shipping
> shipping time ~forever
> mfg: China
> 
> I am trying to find out couple things.
> are the barbs removable?
> How much is copper? what other material?
> Flow rate.
> 
> I'm a budget modder so trying to help others out.


I have them on a Lamptron controller. One of the 30 watt ones don't have a link to the product right in front of me.

Deltas really are awesome fans though. Mine are 2500 RPM. Not even that loud in the whole scheme of things even at full bore. But at about 1200 RPM they still perform super well. The build quality on them is totally different then typical PC fans to. I have some SP120s as well and they feel like toys in comparison.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I have them on a Lamptron controller. One of the 30 watt ones don't have a link to the product right in front of me.
> 
> Deltas really are awesome fans though. Mine are 2500 RPM. Not even that loud in the whole scheme of things even at full bore. But at about 1200 RPM they still perform super well. The build quality on them is totally different then typical PC fans to. I have some SP120s as well and they feel like toys in comparison.


ill do a short vid showing these things. I pulled them out of a server and  WOW they move air but I think they spin closer to 20,000 damn near took a finger off messing with it


----------



## stickg1

I've been looking around a bit, and the product has been out for a while, but has anyone seen a review or video showing the noise issues of the Swiftech MCR-X20 Drive Rev3 Radiator with integrated pump? I have limited rad space, so my fans will probably be about 1200RPM or more anyway so I'm not expecting total silence. But I don't want a ghoulish scream either. The only negative comments I have read about it are noise related. And I just want to know _how much_ noise. Because that product looks to be about perfect for my intentions.

I'm not adverse to other options, for example if I did go with a D5 Vario, I would probably mount it to the floor of my S3, maybe even with one of those Shoggy pads (although I might be able to make something similar enough for my needs). But then I will want a reservoir somewhere. Unless I use one of those radiators with an integrated res but that seems like it would be a better idea on paper. Has anyone used those? Does it take hours to fill up your loop because it holds a sip of coolant?

More than likely I was thinking I could mount a tube res horizontally to the roof. Maybe put in a pass through fitting and 90deg adapter and have a easy access fill port up top? Or I guess I could do the same thing with it mounted vertically in the front of the case and just mount the res directly to the radiator/fans. Or does anyone have any outside the box ideas?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I've been looking around a bit, and the product has been out for a while, but has anyone seen a review or video showing the noise issues of the Swiftech MCR-X20 Drive Rev3 Radiator with integrated pump? I have limited rad space, so my fans will probably be about 1200RPM or more anyway so I'm not expecting total silence. But I don't want a ghoulish scream either. The only negative comments I have read about it are noise related. And I just want to know _how much_ noise. Because that product looks to be about perfect for my intentions.
> 
> I'm not adverse to other options, for example if I did go with a D5 Vario, I would probably mount it to the floor of my S3, maybe even with one of those Shoggy pads (although I might be able to make something similar enough for my needs). But then I will want a reservoir somewhere. Unless I use one of those radiators with an integrated res but that seems like it would be a better idea on paper. Has anyone used those? Does it take hours to fill up your loop because it holds a sip of coolant?
> 
> More than likely I was thinking I could mount a tube res horizontally to the roof. Maybe put in a pass through fitting and 90deg adapter and have a easy access fill port up top? Or I guess I could do the same thing with it mounted vertically in the front of the case and just mount the res directly to the radiator/fans. Or does anyone have any outside the box ideas?


I think I can answer this for you. The pump used on these kits is our MCP35X. That means that it has PWM control. At the highest speed setting they can be a bit noisy, but at that point your fans will also likely be at their highest speed as well and likely drown out any noise coming from the pump. The pump sits at the bottom of the radiator, so the entire radiator pretty much acts as your reservoir.

Being that this is the case there is quite a lot of coolant that you need to put in it to prime the pump anyway. Just pay attention to which way the radiator is mounted because the way it's mounted could mean the difference between quiet operation and a pump that's constantly sucking in the little bit of air that remains in the radiator after you've topped it off.

Being that the fill-port cap has to be installed after filling there is virtually no way to completely remove all of the air out of the radiator. A few small bubbles will remain in the reservoir portion of the radiator once you've bled it and topped it off. This is normal and won't cause any issues so long as the radiator is installed properly. I hope this helps to answer your questions.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I've been looking around a bit, and the product has been out for a while, but has anyone seen a review or video showing the noise issues of the Swiftech MCR-X20 Drive Rev3 Radiator with integrated pump? I have limited rad space, so my fans will probably be about 1200RPM or more anyway so I'm not expecting total silence. But I don't want a ghoulish scream either. The only negative comments I have read about it are noise related. And I just want to know _how much_ noise. Because that product looks to be about perfect for my intentions.
> 
> I'm not adverse to other options, for example if I did go with a D5 Vario, I would probably mount it to the floor of my S3, maybe even with one of those Shoggy pads (although I might be able to make something similar enough for my needs). But then I will want a reservoir somewhere. Unless I use one of those radiators with an integrated res but that seems like it would be a better idea on paper. Has anyone used those? Does it take hours to fill up your loop because it holds a sip of coolant?
> 
> More than likely I was thinking I could mount a tube res horizontally to the roof. Maybe put in a pass through fitting and 90deg adapter and have a easy access fill port up top? Or I guess I could do the same thing with it mounted vertically in the front of the case and just mount the res directly to the radiator/fans. Or does anyone have any outside the box ideas?


about the mcr-x20 no first hand experience except what Bramsli (Swiftech rep) told me while I was using the h220 kit: that that kit is noiser that the the h220 level of noise.

About D5 remember you can always use a PWM version so you don't need to access the back to change speeds and can control it via software. Or the d5 usb version of aquacomputer. I can guarantee that one with a shoggy is virtually silent









About reservoirs you can try a aquacomputer aquatube on top (side by side with the rad) which will involve some mod or asking caselabs to drill it for you? In that case you will have a easy access reservoir that can be used also as a very practical fill port. Beside will look cool I think with a led insert on it.









http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2036

EDIT - Bramsli beat me to it


----------



## stickg1

So are we in agreement that if I have the pump running 40%-70%, and mount it with rubber washers between the case and radiator I shouldn't be too bothered by the noise? No more than a regular DDC pump?


----------



## ledzepp3

Now my reservoir to pump top mount has began to leak very very slowly. Only around the two corners that for whatever reason deteriorated, should I try for the acrylic version to avoid acetal breaking down again?

Also I don't think it's heat related, it would have probably broken down all the corners of the pump top, plus the two memory blocks immediately following my dual 290X's in my loop. So I'm definitely confused as to what this is









-Zepp


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So are we in agreement that if I have the pump running 40%-70%, and mount it with rubber washers between the case and radiator I shouldn't be too bothered by the noise? No more than a regular DDC pump?


Where are you putting the rubber washers? Do you mean between the fans and the radiator and are we still talking about the MCR-X20?


----------



## stickg1

Well it's going in the front flex bay of my S3. In between the fans and radiator is metal. So I could potentially reduce vibrations with rubber washers.


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Of course it has the Apogee Drive II CPU block/pump. Anyone have anything to say about that product? Noise? Reliability? Seems like a pretty solid deal considering I would only need 2 more compressions for my GPU block and I'd have a full loop. Although I still haven't figured out how I would fill the loop. I might have to put a small reservoir in the loop somewhere above the level of the pump to help me out.
> 
> What do you veterans think between the two kits linked above? Either of them any good?


I had the Swiftech H20-320 Elite variation of that kit. The only difference is that it comes with a 360 rad instead of a 240. It works like a charm. I got that kit because of the Apogee Drive II. The pump in that cpu block/pump combo is superb! It will never be necessary to run it at 100% with the included parts in the kit. As far as noise levels, when its at 100% there is a hum but the sound of the water gushing through it is what is noticeable. And you will only hear it if your ear is next to the case not if the computer is under a desk. I have since upgraded my rig and the Apogee Drive II is the only thing I kept from my fist loop. It is powerful enough to pump through itself, a 480, a 360, a Res, and 2 GPU blocks. I have a second pump in my loop for redundancy so I run both at 50%. I have owned it for a year and a half with no issues.

If you get it, the best way to fill and bleed the kit is to assemble it outside the case. Treat the radiator like a reservoir. You will notice that the radiator has one end with the 4 ports for your fittings+hoses. And the other end has a extra addition with 2 fill/drain ports. Make that end your highest point and fill from there. Then install it in your case. You might not be able to do it this way depending on the space/layout in your case but it is also possible doing it in the case with a little more effort.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So are we in agreement that if I have the pump running 40%-70%, and mount it with rubber washers between the case and radiator I shouldn't be too bothered by the noise? No more than a regular DDC pump?


35X pump seems to have a PWM range between 15% and 65% for me. With a CPU+GPU+RAD only, I found 30% to be an ideal balance of noise and performance. YMMV.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 35X pump seems to have a PWM range between 15% and 65% for me. With a CPU+GPU+RAD only, I found 30% to be an ideal balance of noise and performance. YMMV.


What would be a great tool to monitor and finely control the PWM for the 35X pump? I am not sure if I even need to, since it was just set it and forget it with my 35X.

The last time I used it, I don't remember what PWM range it was in. I didn't give it much notice since the temps were fairly fine, up to 55C on load with both CPU and GPU hooked up to a single 240 EX rad.


----------



## stickg1

I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a Swiftech kit. Still weighing the pros and cons of the Apogee Drive II based kit vs the MCR X20 kit. Both have perks and drawbacks for me. That 8x PWM splitter and compression fittings of the Elite kit are really nice features for a few bucks more.


----------



## wermad

Gonna try to get my mcp35x hooked up to the Ascendacy


----------



## Jimhans1

Just got this from PPCS, I didn't see it posted yet, so here ya go:

This Sunday June 15th is Father's Day. Fathers deserve a day just for them to be pampered and spoiled by the entire family. If your dad is also a techie, then what better way to celebrate the weekend and this summer then with some really cool new PC hardware and Mod DIY gear? Make sure to treat pops right!

Spend $50-$250, get 6% off: "FATHER14-6"
Spend over $250, get 8% off: "FATHER14-8"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from June 9th through June 15th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> What would be a great tool to monitor and finely control the PWM for the 35X pump? I am not sure if I even need to, since it was just set it and forget it with my 35X.


On one rig I have the PWM of the pump connected to the GPU fan header, with a little adapter Gelid makes. In EVGA PrecisionX the pump is set to 20% on idle, and goes up to 30% whenever the GPU gets any load.



The other rig I use an Aquaero, there I use pump speed to reduce fan speed fluctuation. I.e. the pump has a slightly more aggressive target delta than the fan target. This helps the fans ramp more slowly, and means they don't suddenly come on loudly whenever the GPU starts heating the water.


----------



## stickg1

So the EK Ascendacy is pretty much an Aquero 6 LT? (If it existed)

Looks pretty awesome. When are they available for the little guys (like me)?


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So the EK Ascendacy is pretty much an Aquero 6 LT? (If it existed)
> 
> Looks pretty awesome. When are they available for the little guys (like me)?


Wrong thread? But all appearances, it seems it is similar, but might be better. The Ascendancy with no LCD is like the LT, the Ascendancy with the LCD is like the XT and Pro.


----------



## stickg1

Exactly, a couple people in here have one in hand for review purposes. If I get a PWM pump, it would be handy as I have pwm fans as well and only one PWM header on my board. Seems relevant to the thread as it's being marketed towards water cooling enthusiasts.


----------



## fakeblood

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01779_zps719f0389.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01784_zpsed14c0fa.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01807_zpse742f1cb.jpg.html


----------



## ProfeZZor X

For those of you with Dominator Platinums under water, do you have any heat issues as a result of the Monarch heat sinks not covering the chips completely?


----------



## szeged

pretty sure you can run ddr3 naked and not have heat issues unless you are doing some stupid high overclocking with super hot ambients.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> For those of you with Dominator Platinums under water, do you have any heat issues as a result of the Monarch heat sinks not covering the chips completely?


How did you even manage to get those heatsinks off? Last few people who tried ripped off the RAM chips as well lol. I tried giving a bit of a pull and then gave up. They are pretty great on the stock heatsink itself, even with a good OC on them.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> pretty sure you can run ddr3 naked and not have heat issues unless you are doing some stupid high overclocking with super hot ambients.


No, not really... I play it safe most of the time and keep my overclock speeds relatively low.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How did you even manage to get those heatsinks off? Last few people who tried ripped off the RAM chips as well lol. I tried giving a bit of a pull and then gave up. They are pretty great on the stock heatsink itself, even with a good OC on them.


I used my heat gun on a low setting and made a dozen passes in each direction. Then I immediately took a flathead screwdriver and pried the heatsinks off in three locations, quickly, but gently. The corner/middle/corner method seemed to work like a charm on all four sticks with no problem.


----------



## VSG

Good to know. But as you said, that PCB is too tall for the Monarch heatsinks as it is. I will consider getting blocks for DDR4 RAM if I go x99. I got a good feeling they would benefit nicely from overvolting.


----------



## ds84

For the D5 vario, am i able to change the dial w/o water in it? Or, in order not to spoil it, best to turn the dial when it is running with water?


----------



## jpetrach

OK this is my CPU/ GPU block.

Market: Amazon now
Price: ~23.00$ U.S.
Build: Solid aluminum copper
Fittings: threaded
Performance: 1-10 7 -1 for aluminum -1 cheap o rings that were torn (i replaced with good ones) -1/2 missing washers -1/2 sharp edges.

I polished the block sorry no before pic you will see from water side VERY dull.

As for performance it is a tad bit restrictive, but temps seem good.


----------



## sinnedone

Nice use of the 3M headlight kit.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Nice use of the 3M headlight kit.


ya! i love that thing i use it for every thing.

AND AFTER WHAT FEELS LIKE FOREVER TEMPS!!!!

These are the coolest i have ever gotten with the GPU


----------



## DarthBaggins

I love my 3m kit at work


----------



## Blackspots

Oh, I have a good question: Is it better to have nickel plated copper, or straight copper?

Such as EK FC670 GTX Nickel vs EK FC670 GTX Copper


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Oh, I have a good question: Is it better to have nickel plated copper, or straight copper?
> 
> Such as EK FC670 GTX Nickel vs EK FC670 GTX Copper


Better in what way? Looks are subjective. In terms of performance (flow/temp core and vrm/restriction) they should be the same.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Oh, I have a good question: Is it better to have nickel plated copper, or straight copper?
> 
> Such as EK FC670 GTX Nickel vs EK FC670 GTX Copper


Straight copper is usually better and EK used to have problems with their nickel plating in the past but I think they've fixed that.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Straight copper is usually better and EK used to have problems with their nickel plating in the past but I think they've fixed that.


Yeah, this is what I was wondering. Too bad FrozenCPU doesn't sell the copper GTX670 VGA block. (I did contact and ask if the plan on doing so)

I was mainly worried about the copper tarnishing.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yeah, this is what I was wondering. Too bad FrozenCPU doesn't sell the copper GTX670 VGA block. (I did contact and ask if the plan on doing so)
> 
> I was mainly worried about the copper tarnishing.


Both nickel and copper blocks will tarnish over time but wont effect performance.


----------



## DeXel

Guys, I've been running my first loop for less than a month now, and my coolant (Mayhem X1 clear concentrate + Walmart distilled) turned a very light blue (barely visible).

Why is that and should I be worried?

Also I'm going to add 240mm 60mm thick rad soon, and I wonder which one is best to get with low fpi? I would prefer one with 4+ in/outs.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Guys, I've been running my first loop for less than a month now, and my coolant (Mayhem X1 clear concentrate + Walmart distilled) turned a very light blue (barely visible).
> 
> Why is that and should I be worried?
> 
> Also I'm going to add 240mm 60mm thick rad soon, and I wonder which one is best to get with low fpi? I would prefer one with 4+ in/outs.


I'm not sure but this might help you out http://www.overclock.net/t/1422898/help-needed-my-water-turned-blue

Alphacool UT60 is a great rad and it comes with 6 ports and a port to help bleed the loop.


----------



## DeXel

Yep, found that thread too. Hopefully it's just copper, but going to check when I get the rad anyway.

It seems like new XSPC RX v3 rads outperform Alphacool UT rads, and are much cleaner? I'm in between RX240 vs UT60 atm.


----------



## slothiraptor

Well theyre both about the same price so if the rx240 performs better I would go with that.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Anyone here use the aquaero?

How do you like it? And what addons do you use


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So are we in agreement that if I have the pump running 40%-70%, and mount it with rubber washers between the case and radiator I shouldn't be too bothered by the noise? No more than a regular DDC pump?


Personally I couldn't handle the high pitched noise that was created by the vibrations even at lower speeds. I used M3 Duallock to mount my pump and it works really well to decouple my pump from my case and lowered my pump noise significantly. If you want to have a reference on how much vibrations actually matter, here is a little video of the shoggy sandwich: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdXHRqaIea4 (ignore the german, they will demonstrate a noise comparison near the end of the vid







)

Also, your brain has the ability to tune out constant sounds, therefore I do not recommend having your pump/fans ramp up and down through PWM curves. It is much more comfortable when your build's sound is constant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Exactly, a couple people in here have one in hand for review purposes. If I get a PWM pump, it would be handy as I have pwm fans as well and only one PWM header on my board. Seems relevant to the thread as it's being marketed towards water cooling enthusiasts.


I recommend this for your pump: http://www.moddiy.com/products/Micro-Fan-Speed-Controller-%284%252dPin-PWM%29.html
That's what I use and it works really well. You just pick the pump speed you find tolerable and keep it at that. Perfect for minimalist SFF builds. Although I would probably buy the Ascendancy if I had space for it


----------



## Shadowline2553

Would a single D5 have enough strength to run 1 cpu block, vrm block(Max VI Formula), 240 rad(XSPC EX240) 2 GPU blocks, and one more 240 rad (Feser Admiral 240)?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Would a single D5 have enough strength to run 1 cpu block, vrm block(Max VI Formula), 240 rad(XSPC EX240) 2 GPU blocks, and one more 240 rad (Feser Admiral 240)?


Yes,yes and yes....


----------



## Shadowline2553

I am really starting to consider putting both my GPUs under water... the top card runs between 15 and 40 degrees warmer than the bottom card.


----------



## lowfat

You don't want an Admiral though. They are not good radiators.


----------



## stickg1

Sigh I keep doing that thing where I put a bunch of stuff in my cart at FCPU, then I do it at PPCs, then I empty them both and fill them with different parts. I'm attending a family reunion up in Minnesota around July 4th. My uncle said the Micro Center is about 20 minutes from his house (where I'm staying). So I'm trying to decide if I should upgrade to a Z97 and a DC chip, or stick with my Z77/3570K and spend the money on watercooling parts now.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Which rad should I get... size isn't an issue since it is going in the bottom compartment of my Cosmos II.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Which rad should I get... size isn't an issue since it is going in the bottom compartment of my Cosmos II.


Hardware Labs SR1 would be my first choice. XSPC RX V3 series would be my second choice.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sigh I keep doing that thing where I put a bunch of stuff in my cart at FCPU, then I do it at PPCs, then I empty them both and fill them with different parts. I'm attending a family reunion up in Minnesota around July 4th. My uncle said the Micro Center is about 20 minutes from his house (where I'm staying). So I'm trying to decide if I should upgrade to a Z97 and a DC chip, or stick with my Z77/3570K and spend the money on watercooling parts now.


I thought about it as well, but there's a lot of new stuff coming so I decided to stick with a z77 board and 3770k and watercool until things come out and settle.


----------



## stickg1

I do have a decent 3570K, I fold 24/7 on it at 4.7GHz, 1.3v, with the Silverstone NT-06 air cooler at the moment with the hottest core peaking at 65C and averaging 58C. I don't want to go much beyond 1.3v, I have benchmarked 5GHz @ 1.38v but I was on water then.

I think the best thing to do is keep this chip until something comes out that makes it obsolete, like the need for more performance, mandatory storage interface update, or when DDR4 is on the main stream boards. That unlocked pentium looks like a bucket of fun though so maybe I will get one of those if they are offering their special combo savings on that chip. Potentially have an overclockable combo for less than $150.

Anyway, are any retailers selling a D5 PWM that comes with a top? All I see are bare pumps. Even a top/reservoir combo would be nice.


----------



## Shadowline2553

What about this one? Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyway, are any retailers selling a D5 PWM that comes with a top? All I see are bare pumps. Even a top/reservoir combo would be nice.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=29094


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Personally I couldn't handle the high pitched noise that was created by the vibrations even at lower speeds. I used M3 Duallock to mount my pump and it works really well to decouple my pump from my case and lowered my pump noise significantly. If you want to have a reference on how much vibrations actually matter, here is a little video of the shoggy sandwich: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdXHRqaIea4 (ignore the german, they will demonstrate a noise comparison near the end of the vid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Also, your brain has the ability to tune out constant sounds, therefore I do not recommend having your pump/fans ramp up and down through PWM curves. It is much more comfortable when your build's sound is constant.
> I recommend this for your pump: http://www.moddiy.com/products/Micro-Fan-Speed-Controller-%284%252dPin-PWM%29.html
> That's what I use and it works really well. You just pick the pump speed you find tolerable and keep it at that. Perfect for minimalist SFF builds. Although I would probably buy the Ascendancy if I had space for it


Thanks for the response, that was helpful, +rep!

That mini PWM controller is awesome, I might not use it on my pump but I'm definitely getting one for my rear exhaust, the 140mm Akasa Viper which is a PWM fan. I will want it around 50% but my radiator fans I will probably want more like 60%, pump around 40%, so I perhaps I can grab two of those devices for fans and hook the pump to the motherboard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=29094


Thanks, I guess it's more cost effective to just buy a bare pump and a top of my choice.

EDIT: I found PWM D5's with housings on FCPU, not sure how I missed that this morning.


----------



## stickg1

edit fail


----------



## psycho84

Update


----------



## Hefner

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32430
Does anyone know what this does and whether it would help a PWM DDC pump? I can't find much information about it. Supposedly it does something to the PWM signal to make it look like an analog signal. Thanks.

Also, did you guys hears about this already?




Very interesting for our radiator fans.


----------



## Blackspots

This is cool, I ask FrozenCPU if they could get the EK copper 670GTX VGA water block in, they now have them available to preorder. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24806/ex-blc-1176/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ultra clean and the pastel red is just delicious in there


----------



## Blackops_2

Pyscho that is beautiful man!


----------



## psycho84

Thx









Next update would be Acrylic Tubing...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> What about this one? Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240


That's a good rad as well. It's high FPM so you would need higher RPM fans, or run push+pull. I have the 480mm version myself and use AP-00/45 and CM R4's in push+pull.


----------



## lowfat

The Nemesis GTX shouldn't require higher speed fans like the regular GTX.


----------



## BabylonDown

Anyone have any experience with the Alphacool ST30 and Black Ice GT Stealth 240's? I am looking to pick up two of either for my watercooling build, but I'm having trouble picking the rads.

I was looking at keeping fan RPM for gaming around 1500rpm if I could with the ability to crank it if I wanted to.

Both my CPU (3770k) and GPU (290X) with be OC'd with extra voltage.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the Alphacool ST30 and Black Ice GT Stealth 240's? I am looking to pick up two of either for my watercooling build, but I'm having trouble picking the rads.
> 
> I was looking at keeping fan RPM for gaming around 1500rpm if I could with the ability to crank it if I wanted to.
> 
> Both my CPU (3770k) and GPU (290X) with be OC'd with extra voltage.


I have the Alphacool ST30 360 and 240. They cool very well... No complaints... But, if I had to do it again. I'd go with hardware labs Black Ice Nemesis GT Stealth rads... The fans I'm using NB Multiframes 1250 rpm arenot known to great rad fans.. But are deadly silent and my temps are great... Hope this helps... Russ


----------



## Shadowline2553

This Rad would be going in the basement of my Cosmos 2 with NF-F12s in push-pull... how efficient would it be? And how quiet? As I said thickness isn't an issue where I am going to mount it.


----------



## Shadowline2553

I have been mainly looking at what I can get at NCIX, Frozen CPU, and DazMode.


----------



## snef

Why not Darkside radiator?


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> I have the Alphacool ST30 360 and 240. They cool very well... No complaints... But, if I had to do it again. I'd go with hardware labs Black Ice Nemesis GT Stealth rads... The fans I'm using NB Multiframes 1250 rpm arenot known to great rad fans.. But are deadly silent and my temps are great... Hope this helps... Russ


Alright. It seems no slim rads are easy to find in my neck of the woods (Canada), so I will keep my eye open.

I found a single ST30 rad on Hardforum that I was looking to pick up, but that still leaves me one rad short and would hate to mismatch.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Alright. It seems no slim rads are easy to find in my neck of the woods (Canada), so I will keep my eye open.
> 
> I found a single ST30 rad on Hardforum that I was looking to pick up, but that still leaves me one rad short and would hate to mismatch.


The ST30 is a really great rad especially if you are space limited and don't want to run your fans super loud. It's one of if not the best low RPM rads around.

Alphacool rads in general are pretty excellent. I run an XT45 as well which I have no complaints about either.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Update
> 
> /quote]
> How did u keep the pastel that bright mine turned out pinkish


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the Alphacool ST30 and Black Ice GT Stealth 240's? I am looking to pick up two of either for my watercooling build, but I'm having trouble picking the rads.
> 
> I was looking at keeping fan RPM for gaming around 1500rpm if I could with the ability to crank it if I wanted to.
> 
> Both my CPU (3770k) and GPU (290X) with be OC'd with extra voltage.


I own a ST30 240 and a 360 Monsta. I haven't tested the 240 separately, but both of my rads have been great to me thus far. My ST30 is mounted at the top of my case with fans in push and the Monsta at the front in push/pull. My fans are eLoops B12-3 and I keep them turned all the way down. Not sure what the rpm is though. I have a 3570k overclocked to 4.4 and it stays nice and cool. My gpus stay in the low 40s C while gaming and benching.


----------



## Shadowline2553

I was originally considering an Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm Radiator... is it still a good choice or is it built like their fittings?


----------



## mus1mus

Can I also ask for feedbacks or any info you guys can give about Black Ice xtreme 3? These 360mm rads are very cheap compared to the SR-1, GTX, and GTS. In fact the cheapest 360 I can get on my country.

Are they good in performance? I know most say it needs high speed fans but if I use 1500 RPM fans in Push/Pull be enough to keep it silent and High performing?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> I was originally considering an Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm Radiator... is it still a good choice or is it built like their fittings?


I can't speak of their fittings, but I've had a good experience with my Alphacool rads so far.


----------



## NathJK

Heres a quick pic of my first watercooled pc. Loving it!


----------



## Jeronbernal

Gold EK FC 780TI Backplates and Gold Dom Plat's Moneyshot


----------



## NathJK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the Alphacool ST30 and Black Ice GT Stealth 240's? I am looking to pick up two of either for my watercooling build, but I'm having trouble picking the rads.
> 
> I was looking at keeping fan RPM for gaming around 1500rpm if I could with the ability to crank it if I wanted to.
> 
> Both my CPU (3770k) and GPU (290X) with be OC'd with extra voltage.


I have an st30 240 and ut60 240 cooling my i53570k at 4.7ghz and 2 x sli gtx 660s overvolted and overclocked. The rads work really well with my setup.
CPU stays under 65C. Both gpus stay under 40C. I use coolermaster jetflo fans on lowest setting. Not the quietest fans on low rpm but good airflow and they look great


----------



## BabylonDown

Any thoughts on this guys?

I will be watercooling an R9 290X and 3770K. I will have a 240 top and bottom mounted. The tube not shown on the top radiator will go to the top of my tube res and the tube not shown on the bottom radiator will go to the pump. The tube res and pump will be just behind the front fans, mounted to the front panel.


----------



## D33G33

Hi guys just thought id share a teaser of an old SG33G5 Shuttle (Socket 775) machine i'm working on. the Shuttle is 310mm long including the front facia, the rad is 270mm long. Tight fit












Not too far from completion now.


----------



## Blackops_2

Question, how much rad space paired with quiet edition sp120s would be required to cool two 780 Classys, and a 3770k all heavily OCed? Or OCed as far as i could push them

I was going to maximize my 800D by clearing out some space and having 120x12 of rad space but if i can get away with 120x9 i will do that.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Question, how much rad space paired with quiet edition sp120s would be required to cool two 780 Classys, and a 3770k all heavily OCed? Or OCed as far as i could push them
> 
> I was going to maximize my 800D by clearing out some space and having 120x12 of rad space but if i can get away with 120x9 i will do that.


120mm x 9 is more than enough.

I was going to say two 360mm would do pretty good. But 120 x 9 would be even better.


----------



## stickg1

So I've been fishing around for some cool waterblocks and was offered this EK Supreme HF Full Nickel that I think is stunning. But was this from the era where EK had the nickel plating issues?



Also this older 7970 block only with nickel plated copper. Are these the nickel I should avoid or are they okay?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So I've been fishing around for some cool waterblocks and was offered this EK Supreme HF Full Nickel that I think is stunning. But was this from the era where EK had the nickel plating issues?
> 
> 
> 
> Also this older 7970 block only with nickel plated copper. Are these the nickel I should avoid or are they okay?


 I would do due diligence , but I believe that that plating issue was resolved quite a long time ago and the defective components were replaced .


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Gold EK FC 780TI Backplates and Gold Dom Plat's Moneyshot


Nasty sir, just nasty!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Gold EK FC 780TI Backplates and Gold Dom Plat's Moneyshot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nasty sir, just nasty!
> 
> NICE! what is the finish on those? I am using a set of DOM Plat my self and would love to custom them in like fashion. that looks phenomenal.
Click to expand...


----------



## Shadowline2553

Anybody have any opinions on Swiftech's The Komodo NV-LE Full Cover VGA Waterblock?


----------



## Sogflash

Hey guys this is my first ever water cooling build and I just wanted your opinion on things that should change. I still have a lot of sleeving and cable management to do but that will come soon enough.

Case: Caselabs STH10
Motherboard: ASUS rampage iv black edtion
CPU: 4930k
Video card: ASUS GeForce GTX 780
Memory: Mushkin Redline 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133MHz

Water cooling
Pump: Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V Pump - Ultra Version
Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Quad 140mm
Reservoir: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 Inline Reservoir
Water Block: EK ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition Full Board Cooling Monoblock - Nickel
EK GeForce 780 GTX Ti DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel
Primochill 1/2" acrylic
Primochill revolver fittings
Fans: Cougar 140mm x 25mm Vortex Hydro Dynamic Bearing Fan - Orange
Distilled water with IandH Dead-Water and Mayhems Dye - 15mL - Orange


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> OK this is my CPU/ GPU block.
> 
> Market: Amazon now
> Price: ~23.00$ U.S.
> Build: Solid aluminum copper
> Fittings: threaded
> Performance: 1-10 7 -1 for aluminum -1 cheap o rings that were torn (i replaced with good ones) -1/2 missing washers -1/2 sharp edges.
> 
> I polished the block sorry no before pic you will see from water side VERY dull.
> 
> As for performance it is a tad bit restrictive, but temps seem good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [





/quote]

What did you use to polish?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sogflash*
> 
> Hey guys this is my first ever water cooling build and I just wanted your opinion on things that should change. I still have a lot of sleeving and cable management to do but that will come soon enough.


A couple of us told him in his thread that it looks good and clean, especially for his first, but too empty&#8230;

Another GPU at least. Can anyone expand on that? And let him in the club!


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> A couple of us told him in his thread that it looks good and clean, especially for his first, but too empty&#8230;
> 
> Another GPU at least. Can anyone expand on that? And let him in the club!


I agree.

With that big case, a thick front rad would probably help fill it up. I like clean looking rigs, but it looks way too empty.


----------



## Sogflash

Yea I might look into another rad and maybe another video card if it's in the budget.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sogflash*
> 
> Hey guys this is my first ever water cooling build and I just wanted your opinion on things that should change. I still have a lot of sleeving and cable management to do but that will come soon enough.
> 
> Case: Caselabs STH10
> Motherboard: ASUS rampage iv black edtion
> CPU: 4930k
> Video card: ASUS GeForce GTX 780
> Memory: Mushkin Redline 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133MHz
> 
> Water cooling
> Pump: Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V Pump - Ultra Version
> Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Quad 140mm
> Reservoir: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 Inline Reservoir
> Water Block: EK ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition Full Board Cooling Monoblock - Nickel
> EK GeForce 780 GTX Ti DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel
> Primochill 1/2" acrylic
> Primochill revolver fittings
> Fans: Cougar 140mm x 25mm Vortex Hydro Dynamic Bearing Fan - Orange
> Distilled water with IandH Dead-Water and Mayhems Dye - 15mL - Orange
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's really nice. I do agree that it looks a little empty. That's a nice case and lots of room for future expansion. But with one GPU and all the rads in the bottom it looks empty. Maybe pick up a few more fans and put a push/pull thick 360mm/420mm radiator up front.

But either way, good work!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hey I know as well as anyone about budgets especially re. GPUs and their blocks. Possibly look into two (or even three) lower end cards instead? Also possibly used?

At least something to think about for the future if you stick with the big case for awhile.


----------



## szeged

Nice work on the first build.

The sth10 is easy to make look empty, I need to add another gpu to mine and split it into dual loops to fill it out even more.


----------



## Sogflash

I didn't polish any of the blocks actually the other style of ekwb had the "cloudy" look but the one I bought turned out pretty clear.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Anybody have any opinions on Swiftech's The Komodo NV-LE Full Cover VGA Waterblock?


Do you want my opinion?


----------



## VSG

Sure, but only if that opinion includes photos of the block opened up


----------



## Shadowline2553

I am looking at getting them... but if only the appearance, and performance is flawless... I have a tendency to chose the best that I can get in terms of parts... I don't skimp out on quality, and as @geggeg said seeing them opened up... would be nice.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> I am looking at getting them... but if only the appearance, and performance is flawless... I have a tendency to chose the best that I can get in terms of parts... I don't skimp out on quality, and as @geggeg said seeing them opened up... would be nice.


Let me pass this suggestion on to our engineers to see if I can get some opened pictures to post here.

We don't have pictures, but I might be able to post a 3D transparent rendering later. Is that sufficient?


----------



## xxroxx

Hey guys, quick questions:

When buying a waterblock, what do you look for?

What do you think should be avoided in a waterblock?

Thx


----------



## wermad

Possibly the best blocks are the i380 and the supremacy. There are some recent models that all perform very well. Just stick with anything recent and not something very old and or obscured ( unknown ebay).

Probably the biggest deciding factor is looks. Find what ever you think looks best in your rig.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Let me pass this suggestion on to our engineers to see if I can get some opened pictures to post here.
> 
> We don't have pictures, but I might be able to post a 3D transparent rendering later. Is that sufficient?


Works for me! But if the engineers are ok with pics, then all the better.

As I said over the phone yesterday, if you want a lab rat to test out the mcp50x2 you know who to call


----------



## psycho84

Exceptionally with closed Sidepanel ^^


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Anybody have any opinions on Swiftech's The Komodo NV-LE Full Cover VGA Waterblock?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you want my opinion?
Click to expand...

Here's mine..

You owe me royalties.





Send me a 35X and some vintage pron or Magoo ****s in your slippers.

EDIT: Dat port block.....It needs to go.......


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 120mm x 9 is more than enough.
> 
> I was going to say two 360mm would do pretty good. But 120 x 9 would be even better.


That is great to hear. Now i don't have to do so much modding


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Here's mine..


Since I'm on mobile, and can't roll back this weeks 40+ pages, what block is that? Sexy as can be.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Here's mine..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm on mobile, and can't roll back this weeks 40+ pages, what block is that? Sexy as can be.
Click to expand...

Its a modded AquaC block for the 290X


----------



## RussianJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a modded AquaC block for the 290X


Ah. Such an awesome block you can't buy makes me a sad panda. That craftsmanship though....


----------



## mercinator16

Hi this is my first ever water cooling build, I was wondering what's normal for Temps on a 4770k, I have mine at 1.38v and it peaks at 70c when playing games, is this normal or is there a problem here?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi this is my first ever water cooling build, I was wondering what's normal for Temps on a 4770k, I have mine at 1.38v and it peaks at 70c when playing games, is this normal or is there a problem here?


Sounds about right for a non delidded chip. What clocks you running?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi this is my first ever water cooling build, I was wondering what's normal for Temps on a 4770k, I have mine at 1.38v and it peaks at 70c when playing games, is this normal or is there a problem here?


Looks good







or though I had gone pump->gpu->cpu->360->240->res for shorter loop / cleaner look.. but thats just me









How hot is the GPU getting?
As fare as I can tell, 70 degrees for a 4770K @ 1.38v is fairly normal. Im guessing the CPU is not delidded?
You can take 10-20 degrees off the CPU by delidding.
What is your ambient temp? (room temp)


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds about right for a non delidded chip. What clocks you running?


4.5 for now, it seems stable. If all goes well I'll try to go higher and maybe delid.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> 4.5 for now, it seems stable. If all goes well I'll try to go higher and maybe delid.


You didn't go with that tube routing because you thought it would give you better cooling?


----------



## VSG

That seems fine, given the volts and the rad space you got in there. The chip will be just fine at those temps.


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or though I had gone pump->gpu->cpu->360->240->res for shorter loop / cleaner look.. but thats just me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How hot is the GPU getting?
> As fare as I can tell, 70 degrees for a 4770K @ 1.38v is fairly normal. Im guessing the CPU is not delidded?
> You can take 10-20 degrees off the CPU by delidding.
> What is your ambient temp? (room temp)


At stock GPU temps are at 23-25c, I have it flashed now and at 1.3v, temps reach 43c at that voltage. Room temp is at 71f. I'm not delidded either.


----------



## mercinator16

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You didn't go with that tube routing because you thought it would give you better cooling?


I don't know what you mean?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> I
> 
> I don't know what you mean?


I'm just wondering why you didn't go with a cleaner routing configuration by just taking the shortest distance between components. Even if you had both radiators flowing from one into the other it wouldn't have made any difference in terms of your temperatures.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Nasty sir, just nasty!


Thanks bro!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*


I used krypton Grey rattle can primer, and gold valspar metallic, originally I tried plastidip with gold on top to peel it later but it didn't turn out the texture I wanted

If you have Dom plats also, I'd buy the light bar kits and paint those instead of the original top bars, just in case you need to rma, not sure if they would deny it or not, just always want the assurance =) thanks for the compliment


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm just wondering why you didn't go with a cleaner routing configuration by just taking the shortest distance between components. Even if you had both radiators flowing from one into the other it wouldn't have made any difference in terms of your temperatures.


Really? I wish I had known that. I read that it was better to have a rad between each component.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No that is a still-common misconception and it seems intuitive but the water moves so fast that the whole loop reaches the same temp ("equilibrium") pretty quick regardless of component order.

Also flipping the top rad around so the ports are on the rear would shorten the tube lengths coming off it considerably.


----------



## everclearhero

First attempt at acrylic tubing. Some of the bends could honestly be better, but I'm happy with for now


----------



## mercinator16

There's a lot of little bubbles in the res, how can I get rid of them? It also looks like there's condensation on the inside, is that normal?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> There's a lot of little bubbles in the res, how can I get rid of them? It also looks like there's condensation on the inside, is that normal?


The bubbles will bleed themselves out over time and condensation within a reservoir is normal.


----------



## GaMbi2004

@mercinator16 I dont know if you noticed yet or maybe already fixed it?
The LED under the "Audio Boost" cover is pink, yes? I have the same mobo and it bugged me quite a bit.. found the solution








http://www.overclock.net/t/1434273/msi-z87-audio-boost-led-glows-pink-solved
Throw in a "







" or a "thanks" so I can see who I've told already


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @mercinator16 I dont know if you noticed yet or maybe already fixed it?
> The LED under the "Audio Boost" cover is pink, yes? I have the same mobo and it bugged me quite a bit.. found the solution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1434273/msi-z87-audio-boost-led-glows-pink-solved
> Throw in a "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " or a "thanks" so I can see who I've told already


Oh man thank you so much, I have electrical tape over every one of those annoyingly bright and random colored leds.

Does this turn off all of them or just the audio boost led?


----------



## ledzepp3

My unanswered issue has gotten worse. It's not leaking but the acetal deterioration has gotten more severe. Here's a pic of what it looks like:

(Potato pic apologies)


It's not heat related issues, I know this because I cranked the loop temps up when I did a heavy over voltage on my 3930K and pegged my 290Xs at 100%. It's not the liquid because it's straight distilled, and the only other thing could be the Primochill Liquid Uptopia but none of it got on the acetal. I also checked the gasket that seals the reservoir mount to the pump top, and that's not leaking so at this point I'm not sure what the hell is happening.

-Zepp


----------



## BabylonDown

I'm just wondering how tight of a bend you can make in acrylic tubing?

I have a couple tight bends I will need to make in my build and need to know if I'm going to need 90 adapters or not.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @mercinator16 I dont know if you noticed yet or maybe already fixed it?
> The LED under the "Audio Boost" cover is pink, yes? I have the same mobo and it bugged me quite a bit.. found the solution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1434273/msi-z87-audio-boost-led-glows-pink-solved
> Throw in a "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " or a "thanks" so I can see who I've told already


My Maximus V Formula is the same way on the the audio xfi branding as well as the ROG logo (both color red instead of pink). In the bios its just a setting to turn it off. I thought this would be a common practice to twll you the truth.


----------



## smsmasters

First time water cooling









Any suggestions?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *everclearhero*
> 
> First attempt at acrylic tubing. Some of the bends could honestly be better, but I'm happy with for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking pretty good all lit up.







Any pictures of it not in the dark?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> My unanswered issue has gotten worse. It's not leaking but the acetal deterioration has gotten more severe. Here's a pic of what it looks like:
> 
> (Potato pic apologies)
> 
> 
> It's not heat related issues, I know this because I cranked the loop temps up when I did a heavy over voltage on my 3930K and pegged my 290Xs at 100%. It's not the liquid because it's straight distilled, and the only other thing could be the Primochill Liquid Uptopia but none of it got on the acetal. I also checked the gasket that seals the reservoir mount to the pump top, and that's not leaking so at this point I'm not sure what the hell is happening.
> 
> -Zepp


Unless you tightened the c**p out of those screws I would say its defective and try to get it replaced.

I have a question for you guys. It seems most everyone forgoes their cd/dvd drives for the sake of rad space. (planning on doing the same)
So I was thinking of putting my BR drive along with possibly a 5.25 card reader usb combo in some sort of enclosure and feeding it to the back of my pc. Only problem is everything I've found so far looks horrible.
Does anyone know of some sexy looking elclosures for 5.25 drives?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> My Maximus V Formula is the same way on the the audio xfi branding as well as the ROG logo (both color red instead of pink). In the bios its just a setting to turn it off. I thought this would be a common practice to twll you the truth.


First time iw seen a function like this in the BIOS, and I told it to 4 folks with Z87-GD boards already.. none of them was aware of the option and was happy that I shared it.
It may be "common practice" for some.. but fare from everyone, hence not really common, is it?
Why do you even comment on this? not helpful. maybe even a bit insulting?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smsmasters*
> 
> First time water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks awesome!

My suggestions would be:

GPU block
Sleeved cables
More pictures


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Let me pass this suggestion on to our engineers to see if I can get some opened pictures to post here.
> 
> We don't have pictures, but I might be able to post a 3D transparent rendering later. Is that sufficient?


That should be good enough, how does this block perform in SLI? Since I will be using it on both of my GTX 780 SCs.


----------



## wermad

@ledzepp3, is it the piece that connects the pump top to the tube reservoir?


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smsmasters*
> 
> First time water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sleeved cables and more pictures but with a better FOV so we can see more of what going on.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I have a question for you guys. It seems most everyone forgoes their cd/dvd drives for the sake of rad space. (planning on doing the same)
> So I was thinking of putting my BR drive along with possibly a 5.25 card reader usb combo in some sort of enclosure and feeding it to the back of my pc. Only problem is everything I've found so far looks horrible.
> Does anyone know of some sexy looking elclosures for 5.25 drives?


Why not try a slim loading BR drive?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> That should be good enough, how does this block perform in SLI? Since I will be using it on both of my GTX 780 SCs.


According to our own in-house testing they perform very well in SLI. Our engineers have been pretty busy today, but I'll try to have that 3D rendering posted here as soon as I can.


----------



## jtom320

Excuse the crappy pictures but just got my Aquacomputer blocks in.

I need the active backplate. Will be replacing the current bridge for the two slot one once I get it but until then she's pretty much finished. Cables aren't done yet though.





Also these things are pretty much as nice as advertised. I gotta hand it to the watercooling companies in general. The EK blocks I've had were very nice as well although honestly the AC slightly edges them out.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Why not try a slim loading BR drive?


It still wouldn't fit in the case and it would kill the look I'm going for.







Plus I'd like to use the drive I already have.


----------



## jtom320

So sort of taking the system above for a spin.

My max GPU temps at stock are 57 degrees. That's about five heaven runs. VRM1 is about 75 but that I expected because there is no backplate yet and apparently that makes a huge difference with these Aquacomputer blocks.

At any rate I'm fairly certain that my rad space is the issue on my fairly high core temps. Running a 240 ST 30 and 240 XT 45. Mostly due to space concerns in mah 350D.

Anyway I can add a 120 in the back. Any thoughts on if this would be worthwhile? These 290s dump a ton of heat.

Also I really don't plan on overclocking much. At least with the GPUs. 4770k is at 4.5ghz. I just can't really think of a scenario in the next year where a game is going to give my current set up trouble. But I'd like to run these a little cooler if possible and maybe take them up to 1ghz on the stock volts if the cards are willing.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a modded AquaC block for the 290X


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ledzepp3, is it the piece that connects the pump top to the tube reservoir?


Yes sir it is!


----------



## stebbiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Does anyone know of some sexy looking elclosures for 5.25 drives?


This is what I use in one of my 5.25 bays. ToughArmor MB994IPO-3SB 2x2.5" SAS/SATA HDD + 1x Slim ODD Rack


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smsmasters*
> 
> First time water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?


That is one electromagnetic build... With those colors, I'd swear it was the hell spawn of Magneto (from the X-Men).


----------



## everclearhero

What it looks like during the day lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Yes sir it is!


Looks like they're cracking or were crushed where the adapter meets the d5 pump top (screw points). You got it like this or it just started falling apart? Might wanna hit up BP support. I would imagine it should hold up even to some over-torquing. Looks more like plastic then acetal/pm tbh and why it would crack much easier.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like they're cracking or were crushed where the adapter meets the d5 pump top (screw points). You got it like this or it just started falling apart? Might wanna hit up BP support. I would imagine it should hold up even to some over-torquing. Looks more like plastic then acetal/pm tbh and why it would crack much easier.


It only started like this about a week after my loop was fully bled. I learned my lesson with building an engine with my dad that it's usually worse to over-tighten a bolt and leave it a little lose







I'm pretty sure I didn't over-torque it, but I'll definitely hit up BP support and see what they say









-Zepp


----------



## wermad

Yeah, with the vibrations of the pump, it may have grown the cracks. Its definitely not acetal and more likely plastic and hence why it eventually cracked all the way through. Definitely hit up BP as this is where the pump secures onto the reservoir. Eventually, it will come undone and may leak by loosing the seal of the o-ring. Good luck


----------



## mercinator16

how tight does the second part of the screw on the xspc supremacy need to be? I screwed it to the point that it was almost touching the block the first time and the second time I only screwed it half as much. my temp are 80 81 75 66 when running prime95. my Temps got worse on the second reinstall.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> how tight does the second part of the screw on the xspc supremacy need to be? I screwed it to the point that it was almost touching the block the first time and the second time I only screwed it half as much. my temp are 80 81 75 66 when running prime95. my Temps got worse on the second reinstall.


I would like to know what an XSPC supremacy is lol?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> how tight does the second part of the screw on the xspc supremacy need to be? I screwed it to the point that it was almost touching the block the first time and the second time I only screwed it half as much. my temp are 80 81 75 66 when running prime95. my Temps got worse on the second reinstall.


I typically screw down any block or CPU heatsink for that matter until it becomes difficult to turn with my fingers. Then check it with a screwdriver to see if it's tight. I don't know what an XSPC Supremacy is though, I'm not sure whether you mean the XSPC Raystorm or EK Supremacy, but either way the block should be tight.

So you only screwed your block down halfway and your temps got worse? Imagine that.









Tighten it up for better results.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I would like to know what an XSPC supremacy is lol?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I typically screw down any block or CPU heatsink for that matter until it becomes difficult to turn with my fingers. Then check it with a screwdriver to see if it's tight. I don't know what an XSPC Supremacy is though, I'm not sure whether you mean the XSPC Raystorm or EK Supremacy, but either way the block should be tight.
> 
> So you only screwed your block down halfway and your temps got worse? Imagine that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tighten it up for better results.


He must mean raystorm, as the EK threads stop you from over tightening.... Unless you replace the screws, you aren't tightening past the optimal spot at all... Ever.


----------



## Hefner

Pressure is good unless you are mounting the block on the bare die.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I typically screw down any block or CPU heatsink for that matter until it becomes difficult to turn with my fingers. Then check it with a screwdriver to see if it's tight. I don't know what an XSPC Supremacy is though, I'm not sure whether you mean the XSPC Raystorm or EK Supremacy, but either way the block should be tight.
> 
> So you only screwed your block down halfway and your temps got worse? Imagine that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tighten it up for better results.


First thing I was taught in the shop was pressure.

Q? what is the maximum amount of pressure in your loop? take (X pressure) and double it.
take that (X) and write it down.
if you have a food scale or fish scale trigger scale. place a single finger and press until you get to X pressure ~ (PSI)
now you have an idea of how little pressure 5-10psi is.

Use this knowledge go forth BUILD! be happy.

always test a Idea being presented to you. what works for me may not work for you! and always build responsibly. OCN is not responsible for the content of this message. enjoy


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *everclearhero*
> 
> What it looks like during the day lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fantastic acrylic tubing bends!! Loving that green!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> First thing I was taught in the shop was pressure.
> 
> Q? what is the maximum amount of pressure in your loop? take (X pressure) and double it.
> take that (X) and write it down.
> if you have a food scale or fish scale trigger scale. place a single finger and press until you get to X pressure ~ (PSI)
> now you have an idea of how little pressure 5-10psi is.
> 
> Use this knowledge go forth BUILD! be happy.
> 
> always test a Idea being presented to you. what works for me may not work for you! and always build responsibly. OCN is not responsible for the content of this message. enjoy


Maybe I just can't wrap my simple brain around it, but how would the water pressure in your loop have anything to do with the tightness of your waterblock on the CPU socket?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Maybe I just can't wrap my simple brain around it, but how would the water pressure in your loop have anything to do with the tightness of your waterblock on the CPU socket?


It'd definitely have to be an excessive amount of pressure unseen in a average water cooled pc to factor all that in there. lol


----------



## everclearhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Fantastic acrylic tubing bends!! Loving that green!


Thanks! I still need some more practice at it, but it came out pretty good


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Maybe I just can't wrap my simple brain around it, but how would the water pressure in your loop have anything to do with the tightness of your waterblock on the CPU socket?


I'm sorry I thought I was commenting on the block/ pump crushing issue. yup I sure did quote the wrong post.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Here's mine..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: sexy 290X block!


Seriously, Bneg, you ABSOLUTELY MUST make a kit for that. It is WAY too sexy not to.


----------



## toggLesss

joined the club with my first build. it was not the best first impression, if i say so myself.









that being said, shall we try this again?







same internals.. i7 3770, GTX 660, etc. etc.

upgraded from Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO to the XSPC Raystorm EX240

tried my damnedest to mount that rad internally, but my dimms weren't having it... tried several potential spots/ideas. nothing worked well & looked decent. i ended up having to drill a hole in the top of the case to run the fan wires (not ideal, but whatever)

i wanted so badly to have an all internal watercooled rig since my first water rig was external. mainly to make the loop a good bit smaller. yeahhhh... no. so maybe when my enthoo pro comes in, everything will work the way my head pictured it to.

i was on the fence about the anti-kink coils & still not too sure how i feel about them. but it adds a nice touch seeing as how everything is soo stinking blue/purple & the "orange" contrasts well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Here's mine..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: sexy 290X block!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, Bneg, you ABSOLUTELY MUST make a kit for that. It is WAY too sexy not to.
Click to expand...

I will make one for anyone that sends the block. I can do this to any block so not just AquaC blocks. Friends rates all round too.


----------



## Willi

Bneg, how much for a 290X kit? I'm in brazil, so sending the block might be unfeasible, but since its the same AquaC, it might be allright. Or you need the little plate over the VRM channel?


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *everclearhero*
> 
> What it looks like during the day lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean, I like how the lines run with the case, very symmetrical, very well done would be my two cents.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Bneg, how much for a 290X kit? I'm in brazil, so sending the block might be unfeasible, but since its the same AquaC, it might be allright. Or you need the little plate over the VRM channel?


Only if you want the plate painted.

I have some blanks still,I always make a few blanks of everything i do,too easy to mess it up by hand so while the brake is out I rustle a few ready for the fubar.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Only if you want the plate painted.
> 
> I have some blanks still,I always make a few blanks of everything i do,too easy to mess it up by hand so while the brake is out I rustle a few ready for the fubar.


I love what you did. Craftsmanship is excellent I just couldn't do it to my A.C. blocks. I imagine you didn't like the palm trees?

Also I asked above but I think it got lost in tbe mess. I'm running a cpu and two gpus off two 240 rads. Anyone e have thoughts on if it would be worth it to add a 120? Space limited so I can't really do anything else.


----------



## mercinator16

Lol sorry I did mean raystorm, I was half asleep when I wrote that. what I want to know is how far do I need to screw down the springs on the secondary part of the screw?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I love what you did. Craftsmanship is excellent I just couldn't do it to my A.C. blocks. I imagine you didn't like the palm trees?
> 
> Also I asked above but I think it got lost in tbe mess. I'm running a cpu and two gpus off two 240 rads. Anyone e have thoughts on if it would be worth it to add a 120? Space limited so I can't really do anything else.


What case are you using? Can you fit a 360 in place of one of the 240's? from my experience 120's offer minimal gains in temp if any at all.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> What case are you using? Can you fit a 360 in place of one of the 240's? from my experience 120's offer minimal gains in temp if any at all.


Yeah I've read that before that's why I asked. I'm using a 350D.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I'm sure a 360 rad could be modded in but I like having my bays for my fan controller and hard drive. Plus I really would rather not cut into it.

Really though 3 degrees or so would be a win for what I'm trying to do. I'm at like 57 degrees 100% loaded on the GPUs after fifteen minutes or so. If I could get that under 55 I'd be happy. I'm running 290s so there is only so much I can do in an mATX build.

Also could restriction be an issue? I'm at a "3" setting on my D5. Suppose that would be easy enough to test when I get home.

Edit: Just realized I could easily put my front rad in P/P configuration. Probably a no brainer for getting temps down.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Lol sorry I did mean raystorm, I was half asleep when I wrote that. what I want to know is how far do I need to screw down the springs on the secondary part of the screw?


Until it's tight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Only if you want the plate painted.
> 
> I have some blanks still,I always make a few blanks of everything i do,too easy to mess it up by hand so while the brake is out I rustle a few ready for the fubar.


B, I would love a little tutorial on the metal bands you bundled your cables with in the S3 build. I just tried it with zip ties and it looks lame


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I love what you did. Craftsmanship is excellent I just couldn't do it to my A.C. blocks. I imagine you didn't like the palm trees?
> 
> Also I asked above but I think it got lost in tbe mess. I'm running a cpu and two gpus off two 240 rads. Anyone e have thoughts on if it would be worth it to add a 120? Space limited so I can't really do anything else.


Honestly the 120 wont do much of an improvement if anything, can you fit a 360 in your case in place of a 240?

That would perhaps yield you better results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Yeah I've read that before that's why I asked. I'm using a 350D.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure a 360 rad could be modded in but I like having my bays for my fan controller and hard drive. Plus I really would rather not cut into it.
> 
> Really though 3 degrees or so would be a win for what I'm trying to do. I'm at like 57 degrees 100% loaded on the GPUs after fifteen minutes or so. If I could get that under 55 I'd be happy. I'm running 290s so there is only so much I can do in an mATX build.
> 
> Also could restriction be an issue? I'm at a "3" setting on my D5. Suppose that would be easy enough to test when I get home.
> 
> Edit: Just realized I could easily put my front rad in P/P configuration. Probably a no brainer for getting temps down.


I was just going to mention you might get more out of using push pull than adding a 120. For me when I had a 480 and a 120 my temp difference on the fluid were maybe 1 degree better.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Lol sorry I did mean raystorm, I was half asleep when I wrote that. what I want to know is how far do I need to screw down the springs on the secondary part of the screw?
> 
> 
> 
> Until it's tight.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Only if you want the plate painted.
> 
> I have some blanks still,I always make a few blanks of everything i do,too easy to mess it up by hand so while the brake is out I rustle a few ready for the fubar.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> B, I would love a little tutorial on the metal bands you bundled your cables with in the S3 build. I just tried it with zip ties and it looks lame
Click to expand...

http://www.partex.co.uk/stainless.html


----------



## mercinator16

The head on one the screws came off, does xspc charge for replacement screws?


----------



## stickg1

Thanks B
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> The head on one the screws came off, does xspc charge for replacement screws?


Huh? Take a picture. They aren't thumb screws on threaded posts?


----------



## DeXel

I had a loose screw on raystorm. I chatted with XSPC, and they told me to contact PPCs (where I bought it) for replacement. They send them to me free of charge.


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Thanks B
> Huh? Take a picture. They aren't thumb screws on threaded posts?


no they're thumb screws with a secondary thumb screw on the threads with a spring and washers, the top of the main screw came off of the post. I tried posting a pic but it's not letting me.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> no they're thumb screws with a secondary thumb screw on the threads with a spring and washers, the top of the main screw came off of the post. I tried posting a pic but it's not letting me.


this confused me when installing my block last night...
will it not just screw back on? or did it completely break off?


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> this confused me when installing my block last night...
> will it not just screw back on? or did it completely break off?


The head came completely off of the screw, when I try to turn the screw it just slides around the post.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> B, I would love a little tutorial on the metal bands you bundled your cables with in the S3 build. I just tried it with zip ties and it looks lame


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.partex.co.uk/stainless.html


Home Depot in the US. It's over where they have all the cable connectors/tape/antennas etc. Its also heavily used in the automotive industry to tie exhaust wrap. You can probably find some in an auto parts store that sells header wrap, but it will most likely be more expensive than home depot.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, with the vibrations of the pump, it may have grown the cracks. Its definitely not acetal and more likely plastic and hence why it eventually cracked all the way through. Definitely hit up BP as this is where the pump secures onto the reservoir. Eventually, it will come undone and may leak by loosing the seal of the o-ring. Good luck


I don't think I actually over-torqued it, there's smearing acetal on the acrylic pump top. It kinda looks like it melted or something like that, but I swear I got a derp res mount









-Zepp


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I don't think I actually over-torqued it, there's smearing acetal on the acrylic pump top. It kinda looks like it melted or something like that, but I swear I got a derp res mount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Polyoxymethylene (Pom, acetal plastic) has a melting point of 175°C. If it had melted, other plastics and things (such as your pump and acrylic res) would have shown signs of melting/burning.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene

Seems more like plastic that broke. If you have any doubts, compare the plastic in question with your ram blocks (assuming you still have them). Those blocks are acetal/pom. You can tell the difference right away, especially the slight hue of matte of acetal vs a shiny look of plastic.

Either way, hit up BP for further assistance.


----------



## MrBlunt

Finally got to leak test my work!!! All is well!!



Any thoughts on coolant to get this exact look?


----------



## SeeThruHead

I have to say these rocket science fittings are really well made.


----------



## phallacy

Hey guys,

My MCP655 recently stopped working, there's almost zero pressure and the water is not moving much. It was in a situation where the inlet was connected to a rad and the outlet was feeding into another res as part of my GPU setup. It was pumping up rather than down or sideways. It happened when I was playing a game all of a sudden all my gpu temps started spiking up where as before all 4 would hover between 50-52 depending on the game. It got to the point where if I do anything that uses the GPU, the loop heats up and my cards approach their thermal limits in a few minutes because the water is not moving out of the blocks and the rads before the second pump. I disassembled the loop and narrowed it down to the pump because even with a connection to a res feeding down into the pump it's barely moving the water and making lots of noise.

This is a picture to explain where the pump was seated when it stopped working/flowing.



It seems like I have to get a new pump now as one d5 (xspc photon 170 combo) is not cutting it with 4 gpus in parallel, 3 rads and having to travel through twists and turns and up.

My question is should I go for another 655 / d5 based pump or go for a swiftech 35x/355 pump? There are quite a few 45 and 90 degree turns to get all the blocks and rads connected and I've read that the 35x series handles high restriction loops better. I've only had the second pump for about a month so it's suprising to me that it would stop all of a sudden. Both pumps were at speed setting 2.


----------



## everclearhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> Finally got to leak test my work!!! All is well!!
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on coolant to get this exact look?


You could try a mixture Mayhems UV laser green and Mayhems UV green


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Has anyone experienced nickel browning inside their EK blocks from using only distilled? ...After switching from the first gen R4BE blocks to the monoblock, I noticed a bit of brown tint in the inlet areas of my EK acrylic blocks. Distilled was the first and only fluid I've had in my loop, so I don't know what could be causing this. I also might want to mention that I've completed the loop in March, and it's ran a total of about 72 random hours spanning from then until now, for leak and endurance testing.


----------



## wermad

EK encourages you to open it up and inspect it. Most stuff wipes off easily. If you see exposed copper, contact ek support. Warranty will cover you as long as you're the original purchaser.

This thread will provide more assistance if needed:

http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> Finally got to leak test my work!!! All is well!!
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on coolant to get this exact look?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fixed the vid embedded link for you.








(have to remove the ampersand and anything after it for the VIDEO link)


----------



## MrBlunt

thx dude


----------



## waveaddict

Anyone have any experience with the Koolance D5 pump top and tube res?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the Koolance D5 pump top and tube res?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A while ago I had a couple running in Elysium.

What is it you need to find out ??



Then changed to single loop but kept both pumps


----------



## kpoeticg

Finally got my 290x blocks attached and my loop put back together


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Finally got my 290x blocks attached and my loop put back together
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I absolutely love the chaos in that loop














.

Very nice!


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> I absolutely love the chaos in that loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Very nice!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Finally got my 290x blocks attached and my loop put back together
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I LOVE Kinex! i used to have them as a kid, and didn't realize they made them for water cooling as well.

No kidding, this is one of my favorite ones so far. Like the red and white mixture as well.


----------



## stickg1

It reminds me of @IT Diva's stretch build. Speaking of which, I haven't seen any updates from her in a while.


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Finally got my 290x blocks attached and my loop put back together
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I LOVE Kinex! i used to have them as a kid, and didn't realize they made them for water cooling as well.
> 
> No kidding, this is one of my favorite ones so far. Like the red and white mixture as well.


Thanx =)

Lol @ Kinex









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It reminds me of @IT Diva's stretch build. Speaking of which, I haven't seen any updates from her in a while.


Her build's definitely on another level than mine. She's the person that opened my eyes to using all horizontal and vertical lines tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JySzE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Finally got my 290x blocks attached and my loop put back together
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Thanx, I'm glad you guys like it!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great job on the all inclusive pump/res/flowmeter. It looks clean as hell!!


----------



## IT Diva

Be very wary about hanging QDC's on those clear plastic "Q" fittings.

They crack pretty easy at the thread corners with any lateral force.

I'd go for the metal ones.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for the warning =)

I'm not planning on leaving the loops inlet like that. I just used random fittings i had real quick so i could take some pics. I have a white Q and a red L if i really want it to be like that. I don't really like the way the BP extender looks coming out of the Monsoon 90 either tho


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the Koolance D5 pump top and tube res?
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2053553/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


I did tested the top recently. What you want to known?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Connections complete. I just used some old bends I did a while back...

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2473.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2480.jpg.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Professor, bitspower fittings painted black to get rid of the golden dragon?


----------



## VSG

Looks like the Barrow fittings.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like the Barrow fittings.


Yeah, it looks like. Nice to hear about those, looks like bitspower without the ugly logo on the black version. How those Barrow holds in building/endurance quality?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Connections complete. I just used some old bends I did a while back...
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2473.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2480.jpg.html


Some pretty serious bends there Prof,liking the effort. One of them is a bit yeehaw tho,unless my eyes are failing.


----------



## Jeronbernal

So i bought a new gold EK Supremacy, that for some reason part of the gold plating on the bottom came off after a single mount and removal to check for contact. i tried to email them and see whatsup. here's what i got back -_-
Quote:


> Dear customer,
> 
> We are sorry, but we as a manufacturer cannot RMA your item directly.
> We can only RMA products that have problems with corrosion.
> 
> Retailers (place of purchase) are obliged to provide support and RMA products.
> 
> If you need any further information, please do not hesitate to contact me.
> 
> Kind regards, Peter Šajn


it's a brand new CPU, and brand new block, and the place that got plating removed was right in the dead center area of the IHS....

jeez. if i didnt already buy so much EK stuff for this build i would have already switched. lol @[email protected]


----------



## VSG

So is that bottom picture after a wipe? It still looks golden to me.

Either way, see what Derick has to say about it. Post it in the EK thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> So i bought a new gold EK Supremacy, that for some reason part of the gold plating on the bottom came off after a single mount and removal to check for contact. i tried to email them and see whatsup. here's what i got back -_-
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Dear customer,
> 
> We are sorry, but we as a manufacturer cannot RMA your item directly.
> We can only RMA products that have problems with corrosion.
> 
> Retailers (place of purchase) are obliged to provide support and RMA products.
> 
> If you need any further information, please do not hesitate to contact me.
> 
> Kind regards, Peter Šajn
> 
> 
> 
> it's a brand new CPU, and brand new block, and the place that got plating removed was right in the dead center area of the IHS....
> 
> jeez. if i didnt already buy so much EK stuff for this build i would have already switched. lol @[email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Im not sure what the problem is,its normal for manufacturers to defer to the vendor. He has not refused you,he wants you to go to the correct channels.
You didnt purchase directly from EK did you? Otherwise they would be responsible.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I did tested the top recently. What you want to known?


Just haven't seen them used very much and I really like the looks and options Koolance has for tube accessories.I will be using a MCP655 with it as well as one of there couplers on the res.



Thanks for the response.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sure what the problem is,its normal for manufacturers to defer to the vendor. He has not refused you,he wants you to go to the correct channels.
> You didnt purchase directly from EK did you? Otherwise they would be responsible.


That's weird. Every time I've rma'd something I've been deferred to the manufacturer. Even in most watercooling retailers websites they say returns are not acceptable and must talk to the manufacturer... Here's ppcs return policy (since I'm on there page right now anyways)

"We also cannot accept back any water cooled parts, water cooled kits, or any heatsinks that are used or have been installed. If you have a defect or problem with a installed water cooled part then the support and RMA must be direct through the manufacturer"


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like the Barrow fittings.


Yeah I didn't like those logos one bit, so I went on ebay and found some from a Texas based resaler.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah, it looks like. Nice to hear about those, looks like bitspower without the ugly logo on the black version. How those Barrow holds in building/endurance quality?


They're pretty solid for the most part, but I did encounter one that had broken apart. I managed to snap it back together, and it worked just fine after that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Some pretty serious bends there Prof,liking the effort. One of them is a bit yeehaw tho,unless my eyes are failing.


Thanks, I try. The yellowing could be the lighting... Maybe its catching a reflection of the light colored wood furniture in the room.


----------



## Cosworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> That's weird. Every time I've rma'd something I've been deferred to the manufacturer. Even in most watercooling retailers websites they say returns are not acceptable and must talk to the manufacturer... Here's ppcs return policy (since I'm on there page right now anyways)
> 
> "We also cannot accept back any water cooled parts, water cooled kits, or any heatsinks that are used or have been installed. If you have a defect or problem with a installed water cooled part then the support and RMA must be direct through the manufacturer"


Really? who have you been dealing with? i bought all my parts through Scan Computers and when i discovered a leak through a crack in the perspex of my EK Supremacy they tested and replaced it as part of the rma policy. They deal almost exclusively with computer parts the exceptions being blank media and phones, I have dealt with them exclusively after shopping around and finding their returns policy and customer service to be exceptional.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sure what the problem is,its normal for manufacturers to defer to the vendor. He has not refused you,he wants you to go to the correct channels.
> You didnt purchase directly from EK did you? Otherwise they would be responsible.
> 
> 
> 
> That's weird. Every time I've rma'd something I've been deferred to the manufacturer. Even in most watercooling retailers websites they say returns are not acceptable and must talk to the manufacturer... Here's ppcs return policy (since I'm on there page right now anyways)
> 
> "We also cannot accept back any water cooled parts, water cooled kits, or any heatsinks that are used or have been installed. If you have a defect or problem with a installed water cooled part then the support and RMA must be direct through the manufacturer"
Click to expand...

The UK is different,everything goes back to the vendor,you get a year back to vendor warranty on everything you buy by law.

EDIT: Buy your WC gear from Specialtech Cosworth,not Scan.

I buy hardware from Scan when I need to.,my QPAD MK85 packed up and they sorted it no problem....after 8 months of use too.


----------



## Cosworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The UK is different,everything goes back to the vendor,you get a year back to vendor warranty on everything you buy by law.


that's true i didn't think of that


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah, it looks like. Nice to hear about those, looks like bitspower without the ugly logo on the black version. How those Barrow holds in building/endurance quality?


Pretty sure Barrow and Bitspower fittings are made by the same manufacturer. The only thing I can tell different about them is the matte black instead of glossy black finish w/ logos and the o-rings. Many people have been using Barrow fittings for a while now. Lowfat swears by them ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> With Aliexpress the shipping is generally included w/ the price. And it isn't the price that bothers me w/ BP, it is the huge painted logos. Plus the black paint on the Barrows is a better matte black vs the BPs. I've used the Barrow 90 degree rotaries in most of my builds for the last year and honestly I wouldn't consider anything else.
> 
> Look at how glossy the BP 'matte' fitting is compared to the Barrow.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-38-3.jpg.html


----------



## Jeronbernal

The UK is so nice... You guys have so many pc specialist type events there, and Lan events and all the good stuff. In Washington in the US, we have nothing. Lol just a few companies but nothing really for the "enthusiast"

I'd love that back to vendor warranty.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A little blemish in a gold plating surface on a waterblock isn't going to hurt anything and should be expected imho. Gold is fragile. It's supposed to be. The nickel surface under it is just fine. You won't see it when it's installed. It will have zero effect on temps. Problem solved.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A little blemish in a gold plating surface on a waterblock isn't going to hurt anything and should be expected imho. Gold is fragile. It's supposed to be. The nickel surface under it is just fine. You won't see it when it's installed. It will have zero effect on temps. Problem solved.


And this.

Its not something i would be majorly pissed over,no one will see it and as Unicron has already said,it wont harm performance.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Yeah I didn't like those logos one bit, so I went on ebay and found some from a Texas based resaler.


Who was the reseller? If he/she is based in Texas, I might get a few to try out this weekend.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Who was the reseller? If he/she is based in Texas, I might get a few to try out this weekend.


Probably PCCoolings on ebay (they're in Houston)
http://www.ebay.com/sch/pccoolings/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Who was the reseller? If he/she is based in Texas, I might get a few to try out this weekend.


The only things I've purchased from them were some 90 degree, 90 degree rotary fittings, and a couple of extensions, but they offer a LOT more than that.

Here's a link to their water cooling page: http://www.ebay.com/sch/Fans-Heatsinks-Cooling-/42000/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=the-bestdealmarket


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Probably PCCoolings on ebay (they're in Houston)
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/pccoolings/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> The only things I've purchased from them were some 90 degree, 90 degree rotary fittings, and a couple of extensions, but they offer a LOT more than that.
> 
> Here's a link to their water cooling page: http://www.ebay.com/sch/Fans-Heatsinks-Cooling-/42000/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=the-bestdealmarket


lol they are both based in Houston, might give them a call and see if I can drive over to check out what they have. Hopefully they aren't just middlemen and actually store some inventory. Thanks guys, +1

Edit: Both stores are the same entity, run by Chinese immigrants and the warehouse for the watercooling gear (10 min away from my place!) isn't open to the public despite my best haggling. Such a shame, it would have been so nice to have a local outfit I could drive over to for stuff


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol they are both based in Houston, might give them a call and see if I can drive over to check out what they have. Hopefully they aren't just middlemen and actually store some inventory. Thanks guys, +1


I might have to check them out too next month on vacation







. Let me know if they are like a legit store.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> I might have to check them out too next month on vacation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Let me know if they are like a legit store.


See my edited post above


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> See my edited post above


whyyyyyy


----------



## VSG

I know, right? I will try again but this time with a Chinese friend talking on the phone instead. The person I spoke to first was ok with me coming over but she wanted to confirm it first, that's when things went south.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> A while ago I had a couple running in Elysium.
> 
> What is it you need to find out ??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then changed to single loop but kept both pumps


Looks like you used a bitspower res with a nipple instead of threading a koolance res directly into the pump top?
Nice looking set up by the way.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I know, right? I will try again but this time with a Chinese friend talking on the phone instead. The person I spoke to first was ok with me coming over but she wanted to confirm it first, that's when things went south.


That should help. They may be like a wholesale reseller, so idk if they'll have much on display.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I know, right? I will try again but this time with a Chinese friend talking on the phone instead. The person I spoke to first was ok with me coming over but she wanted to confirm it first, that's when things went south.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> That should help. They may be like a wholesale reseller, so idk if they'll have much on display.


Either that or fittings aren't the only thing back in that warehouse and they don't want people looking around! Might be your new goto shop if you develop a black tar habit.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Just haven't seen them used very much and I really like the looks and options Koolance has for tube accessories.I will be using a MCP655 with it as well as one of there couplers on the res.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response.


Well my impressions of the d5 top are:

Well made, well finished, nice (included in the kit) tube and backplate for the d5 (encasing it in a black finish), nice mount mechanism. A breeze to mount it and quite flexible to fix it to the case. The only thing I didn't like it was that it seems somehow noisier that the ek d5 top so in the end I went that route. Hope it helps.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Either that or fittings aren't the only thing back in that warehouse and they don't want people looking around! Might be your new goto shop if you develop a black tar habit.


Is that coming from your years of experience hanging around shady warehouses?


----------



## stickg1

That or playing too many video games, lol.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yah let me know if you see bottles of ecig liquid! lol

I just bought another 90 from them today.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Well my impressions of the d5 top are:
> 
> Well made, well finished, nice (included in the kit) tube and backplate for the d5 (encasing it in a black finish), nice mount mechanism. A breeze to mount it and quite flexible to fix it to the case. The only thing I didn't like it was that it seems somehow noisier that the ek d5 top so in the end I went that route. Hope it helps.


Thanks,that pretty much sums it up.How loud are we talking,could you here it above your fans?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Thanks,that pretty much sums it up.How loud are we talking,could you here it above your fans?


That is the thing. I was testing the final gear that was going into my system: New aqualis xt 150 ml, bitspower fittings, d5 aquacomputer usb and the koolance top. I was used to the noise of the ek top+ d5 PWM (which runs at 60% while not connected to pwm MB header) while the aquacomputer d5 runs at 100% in the same condition. My subjective impression was that the koolance top was louder. To even things out I replace the aquacomputer pump with the pwm and still appears to me the koolance top was louder. But I never place it in the loop. I end up using the ek tops with the aquacomputer d5 pumps that are running at 100% and are dead silent since I use the shoggy sandwhich. So, in the end the koolance top + aquacomputer d5 with the shoggy migh as well been completely silent too since the ek top+aquacomputer d5 tested externally was not silent whatsoever.

Hope it helps


----------



## charliebrown

Booooooooooo lol thanks for the info


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Booooooooooo lol thanks for the info


Just to make sure people don't just come in to scam. I got scammed already by a newbie with 0 posts here but thankfully I won the Paypal case.


----------



## charliebrown

That sucks bro im an honest guy I would never do that


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> That sucks bro im an honest guy I would never do that


We even had a supposedly legitimate reseller con some people on here after he was able to convince the staff that he was legitimate. It was very crafty of him to use established forum members to promote his illegitimate business. People have still not been fully compensated or recovered their losses yet. Forums like this one have to be careful how they establish their vendors and how forum members are able sell their own used parts. It's unfortunate, but there are some very shady people out there.


----------



## charliebrown

That's awful I just had a kid so my money is tight needs of a child are more important than my own that's why I'm getting rid of it
Everything you see here


----------



## Hefner

What are you doing reproducing without sufficient funds...


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> What are you doing reproducing without sufficient funds...


----------



## charliebrown

I'm a robotics technician I make plenty of money. I said money is tight because I have other kids, no need money to sit when I don't use anymore. You say that as if I'm a 17 year old drop out.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> I'm a robotics technician I make plenty of money. I said money is tight because I have other kids, no need money to sit when I don't use anymore. *You say that as if I'm a 17 year old drop out.*


No offense meant. It is not uncommon though.


----------



## charliebrown

None taken I made the post because I knew guys here are enthusiasts like myself. Im not going to flood this thread with talk of my life.


----------



## MrGrievous

Has anyone used this tool for those of you who have done acrylic tube builds or would even suggest how to would work on rigid tubing.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That is the thing. I was testing the final gear that was going into my system: New aqualis xt 150 ml, bitspower fittings, d5 aquacomputer usb and the koolance top. I was used to the noise of the ek top+ d5 PWM (which runs at 60% while not connected to pwm MB header) while the aquacomputer d5 runs at 100% in the same condition. My subjective impression was that the koolance top was louder. To even things out I replace the aquacomputer pump with the pwm and still appears to me the koolance top was louder. But I never place it in the loop. I end up using the ek tops with the aquacomputer d5 pumps that are running at 100% and are dead silent since I use the shoggy sandwhich. So, in the end the koolance top + aquacomputer d5 with the shoggy migh as well been completely silent too since the ek top+aquacomputer d5 tested externally was not silent whatsoever.
> 
> Hope it helps


+Rep for that,will be using some form of dampening material between the case and pump top,I also really like the way this top looks compared to most square offerings though I'm sure EK's performance is up there as allot of builds on here use them.Thanks again for the info


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Has anyone used this tool for those of you who have done acrylic tube builds or would even suggest how to would work on rigid tubing.


I use those for stainless steel/copper tubing, I definitely would not go with those for acrylic unless you were ok replacing the blades each time. The best cutter for acrylic tubing is a precision diamond saw but that's not accessible to everyone either. A good hacksaw with a fine cut similar to what is sold in the Monsoon cutting kit followed by a deburrer/reamer would work great.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I use those for stainless steel/copper tubing, I definitely would not go with those for acrylic unless you were ok replacing the blades each time. The best cutter for acrylic tubing is a precision diamond saw but that's not accessible to everyone either. A good hacksaw with a fine cut similar to what is sold in the Monsoon cutting kit followed by a deburrer/reamer would work great.


Ok I thought as much but was not really sure lol, I was actually thinking that the tubes may crack or ssomething lol but acryilic is tougher stuff than I first thought lol. thank you for chiming in


----------



## BabylonDown

Quick question:

3770k 4.5Ghz @ 1.28v
R9 290 Crossfire 1100 @ +100mv

Are two 240 Alphacool ST30's enough to cool with GT AP15's @ 1500-1850rpm in push/intake?

And will a Corsair AX860 suffice?


----------



## stickg1

Yeah, but _enough_, as I've learned from this thread is extremely subjective. _Enough_ in terms of will it be much more effective than air cooling? Yes. I believe you will be in good shape. Probably could turn the fans down some too.

EDIT: I missed the word *crossfire* in there. Might be a little warm but still much better than aircooling those cards. Power supply, theoretically it has the amperage. I'm no expert though. I know with a 3570K @ 4.8GHz and 1x R9 290 +100mV I was pulling ~500w from the wall full load.


----------



## salted_cashews

Yes your needs are adequately covered. I wouldn't add too much more to that PSU though.

Ninja'd


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> +Rep for that,will be using some form of dampening material between the case and pump top,I also really like the way this top looks compared to most square offerings though I'm sure EK's performance is up there as allot of builds on here use them.Thanks again for the info


Glad was helpful. All that was just my impression. But shoggy sandwich is really something that works (I guess you might do it yourself something similar).

Cheers


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Quick question:
> 
> 3770k 4.5Ghz @ 1.28v
> R9 290 Crossfire 1100 @ +100mv
> 
> Are two 240 Alphacool ST30's enough to cool with GT AP15's @ 1500-1850rpm in push/intake?
> 
> And will a Corsair AX860 suffice?


Dude I have a very similar system.

4770k, R9 290 Crossfire and a 240 ST 30 and 240 XT 45.

It's definitely okay but overclocking my GPUs I have seen temps as high as 63 degrees. This is with 2500 RPM deltas although only in push on both rads. They are also running 1200ish RPM.

4770k is about 1.23 volts and GPUs are stock volts but at 1100 apiece.

I used to have a single 780 TI in the system at 1.3 ghz that barely broke 50 and that was only pushing it hard.

Just trying to say that temps will definitely be okay but if you could squeeze a 360 in place of one of those 240s I'd recomend it. I'm looking for ways to improve my set up. Going to go p/p on the XT45 and if that doesn't get them down enough may look into another 120 rad.


----------



## MrBlunt

Looks a lil better with green huh?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> Looks a lil better with green huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


MUCH better! That is the way it should stay. Even the light touches of red look great with that color. Great job!


----------



## royce5950

"Corsair x70.1 Revenge" Custom Liquid Cooled PC w/ 90° Motherboard Mod, AX Rads & More!!

started on 05/26/14
•

last post 09/29/14 at 2:21am
•

28 replies
•

1919 views

My current build,

Just now getting into the watercooling components and about to build some custom blocks for the gpu and the chipsets.

Come by and peep it if youd like. Hopefully this is kosher with forum rules. I tried not to share until I was getting to the watercooled stuff.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Main stuff done, just need to add some more acrylic tubing g and couplers, I love BP enhanced multi links

And the backplate looks great

Waiting for this silhouette cameo vinyl cutter Jameswalt1 showed me, and also make some acrylic pieces and we are CAKE


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> Looks a lil better with green huh?


Did somebody say green?







Looks great MrBlunt!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Did somebody say green?


Hell yeah!


----------



## johnnybra

Hard acrylic pipe bending, but my rig is on again!







Still a lot of work to do with cable management and lights


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Has anyone used this tool for those of you who have done acrylic tube builds or would even suggest how to would work on rigid tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> I use those for stainless steel/copper tubing, I definitely would not go with those for acrylic unless you were ok replacing the blades each time. The best cutter for acrylic tubing is a precision diamond saw but that's not accessible to everyone either. A good hacksaw with a fine cut similar to what is sold in the Monsoon cutting kit followed by a deburrer/reamer would work great.
Click to expand...



and



and thats what I use every single time I cut tubing. The plastic ez lock discs dont CUT the tubing, it heats it as it runs against it at a high rate of speed. thus not causing the jagged sort of cut youd get from a saw blade or mechanical jig saw / table saw. You get left with a SMALL amount of melted plastic at the end of the rigid tube where you cut it at and it instantly dries within one second. then you can usually just wait 2 or 3 seconds and just chip it off with your fingers. finally sand it flat at the end and insert the tube into your fitting.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Hard acrylic pipe bending, but my rig is on again!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a lot of work to do with cable management and lights


what are your thoughts on the color theme? I think this looks SO DOPE I had to comment just because of how well thought out and uncluttered your tube routing is! and congratulations for owning and creating this!

That aside friendly criticism, I'd suggest either full black sleeving or anything more relevant to the msi board than the white and red. because right now I have to say either keep the board and switch coolant color and sleeve job, or the more expensive route, switch board keep sleeve and coolant color. (coolant switch could include a switch to water too)

just my









but my advice aside, well done.

*golf clap


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Main stuff done, just need to add some more acrylic tubing g and couplers, I love BP enhanced multi links
> 
> And the backplate looks great
> 
> Waiting for this silhouette cameo vinyl cutter Jameswalt1 showed me, and also make some acrylic pieces and we are CAKE
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


whole thing, well done.

brilliant


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Hard acrylic pipe bending, but my rig is on again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a lot of work to do with cable management and lights


Looks excellent. What kind of coolant is that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Has anyone used this tool for those of you who have done acrylic tube builds or would even suggest how to would work on rigid tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> I use those for stainless steel/copper tubing, I definitely would not go with those for acrylic unless you were ok replacing the blades each time. The best cutter for acrylic tubing is a precision diamond saw but that's not accessible to everyone either. *A good hacksaw with a fine cut* similar to what is sold in the Monsoon cutting kit followed by a deburrer/reamer would work great.
Click to expand...

This.
You could score and snap but hacksaw and file is less risky and is fastest.

Also,dont use tools that have been used for something else,you acrylic kit should only have been used on acrylic.

In other news,The D5 pump is rated beyond 60c,its the actual plastic pump top that rated to 60c,the pump with the solar brass top is rated to 95c...


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> whole thing, well done.
> brilliant


^_^ thank you! just got some tubing done, still trying to contemplate if that's how i want to keep it


----------



## wermad

Wow


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> ^_^ thank you! just got some tubing done, still trying to contemplate if that's how i want to keep it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking rig!









But -- get a tripod


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Hard acrylic pipe bending, but my rig is on again!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a lot of work to do with cable management and lights


Aww I miss my Z77 MPOWER. That was a good board. I like the build, nice work on the acrylic.


----------



## 033Y5

hello everyone hope all are well
i am i the process of rebuiling my loop and adding ek 290x rev 2 waterblock and noticed on my xspc ex240 rad the fins around the edges are loose and move will thiscause any problems , should i not use this rad or will it be ok aslong as its only the very outer ones that do move

same corner as above but with fins pushed back inside


please ask if you need more info or better or different view on the pics
thanks in advance for any help with this


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd imagine as long as the fins are resting on the water channels, and the water channels have no damage, it should function properly. The fins are really just little heatsinks. I'm not an expert tho...


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybra*
> 
> Hard acrylic pipe bending, but my rig is on again!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a lot of work to do with cable management and lights


Looks real nice man. I don't see too many builds with the Z77 Mpower. Check out how I used mine in my build in my sig.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Finally got my 290x blocks attached and my loop put back together
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just a quick question. How much did you spend on fittings alone there? That looks impossibly complicated XD I was trying to map the flow sequence on those waterblocks. Awesome work.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Great looking rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But -- get a tripod


Thank you!
Lol even with a tripod I take horrible pictures, that's a skill I definitely need to work on, as well as acrylic tube bending @[email protected] I should dink around with my camera today and see what I can do =)


----------



## OBI-1

Hey guys! I am new to the forum, but have been building PC's for years. This is my first project under water and wanted to contribute to this awesome thread. I have gotten so many great ideas from here and could not have gotten this far without you all. Thank you all so much for your enthusiasm in this art of overclocking and advanced water cooling techniques!!







If interested my build log is in my sig. CHEERS!!




Spoiler: Different angles and rad clearance







I can fit a fan controller in the top bay if it has a low enough profile. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! I am thinking about a Lamptron for the liquid monitoring benefits. I'll also be using the back AF140 as exhaust LOL





I am planning on going push/pull in the UT60 up front since I have the room, also, putting the140mm fans back up front with out a good seal on the rad would be pointless.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

That's a good looking rig you got there. A perfect balance of black and white throughout your built. Hopefully you'll go with black cables instead of white.


----------



## psycho84




----------



## ledzepp3

Thank you for the advice werm, I think I'll go ahead and get the acrylic reservoir mount this time, kinda looks nicer







I still don't know what's happened, the acetal (when I touch around the crack) has turned into a paste consistency.

Eh, screw it. Acrylic it is.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

These fittings are a must have for me......

Join the campaign!



https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/illumitube


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> These fittings are a must have for me......
> 
> Join the campaign!
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/illumitube


Both funders so far forgot to add shipping


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> These fittings are a must have for me......
> 
> Join the campaign!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/illumitube


Looks cool. Didn't another manufacturer make some similar to these?

Edit: never mind it was the Monsoon light port rotary angle fittings.


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Looks cool. Didn't another manufacturer make some similar to these?


Yeah, Monsoon has something similar. I was considering using them in my build but their solution is a little big with their rotary fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> These fittings are a must have for me......
> 
> Join the campaign!
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/illumitube
> 
> 
> 
> Both funders so far forgot to add shipping
Click to expand...

It will be cheaper than what i paid for this to be shipped.....

http://www.robocutters.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=TheOXPLUSCNC


----------



## Illuminati

Haven't upgraded for almost a year now! Any idea what I could add or change? Maybe go with the Rampage 4 Black edition?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Thought I'd seize the moment last night of what I thought was a good shot.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2485.jpg.html


----------



## zzorro

hi guys..
here my simple old school dual loop wc rig
oops sorry if bad picture.. take from note 3 only dont have Dslr.. hehe









any suggestions are welcome


----------



## OBI-1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Thought I'd seize the moment last night of what I thought was a good shot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2485.jpg.html


That is an amazing shot! Great color balance with slight depth of field. This should be a magazine cover LOL


----------



## psycho84




----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A) Move to acrylic
B) Move to custom sleeved cables

Then that would be really well done.


----------



## psycho84

I know ^^

Acrylic will be the next Step. And custom sleeved Cables when i know which PSU i will finally take ^^


----------



## lowfat

@zzorro are all of your radiators exhausting air? Most if not all of them should be intakes for best performance.


----------



## dallas1990

how hard would it be to clean black colored coolant from my loop?


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah sometimes I get in a hurry and make bone-head mistakes. I had been drinking beer for a few hours but that's pretty much every night, so I can't blame it on that!
> 
> Everything seems pretty dry now anyway. I'm booted and running, I didn't put the HDDs back in yet but my OS is on the SSD mounted to my mobo tray.
> 
> I can't get enough of my little pond pump and filter loop. I love this thing. I'm just running rads for the hell of it at this point. Must be that beer...
> (pardon the mess, I've been reeking havoc in this room today)
> 
> 
> 
> Also I had bought the Watts 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD before for dicking around, but they had a 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD too when I was there today so I bought that. It's even more rigid than Advance LRT. I'm going to run a little mini loop of it to see how quickly it plasicizes, if at all. Seems like the harder the tubing the less plasticizer in it right?


.

start here and read forward. lots of good stuff here. Page 2994

Anyone know what's up with this tube. 2.30$+ 3.61 shipping< (odd number right) but 5.91$ total all the others are 25.00$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CS10OEQ/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VQX5ZTSCH505


----------



## VSG

Per foot pricing


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> I know ^^
> 
> Acrylic will be the next Step. And custom sleeved Cables when i know which PSU i will finally take ^^


Frosted acrylic would look great with the pastel fluid, I think. Imagine a frosted CSQ block without the circles. Now picture it all over the build.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Quick question:
> 
> 3770k 4.5Ghz @ 1.28v
> R9 290 Crossfire 1100 @ +100mv
> 
> Are two 240 Alphacool ST30's enough to cool with GT AP15's @ 1500-1850rpm in push/intake?
> 
> And will a Corsair AX860 suffice?


I doubt it.

I have a 420mm on top and 240mm Monsta on bottom, 3930k @ 4.5GHz and 2x R9 290's in CrossfireX (Currently) at stock. I know it's summer already (We've been hit with 40ºC already, room at ambients of 30-32ºC), but even in winter, temperatures were not optimal, with the CPU hitting anywhere from 67-72ºC and GPU's as high as 55-56ºC, this is with intensive games like Battlefield 4.

Sure the 3930k takes lot more power than 3770k, but you have way less radiator spacing than I do. Might want to do for 360+240 at least. Personally I am considering adding an external 360mm, or a 140mm rear.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Per foot pricing


I am sorry for wasting everyones time because i am incapable of reading the discreption.


----------



## VSG

lol don't worry about it, most of the watercooling shops offer tubing on a per foot basis.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

So guys. As you know, i have the Haf Stacker, so i think I'm going to buy 2 monsta 360's in one pedestal along with 1 slim 360 and 1 medium 240. Will this be enough for a 4670k at 4.6 GHz and 2 290x's Heavily oc'ed? (I have one atm but plan on getting 2 soon.)


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> So guys. As you know, i have the Haf Stacker, so i think I'm going to buy 2 monsta 360's in one pedestal along with 1 slim 360 and 1 medium 240. Will this be enough for a 4670k at 4.6 GHz and 2 290x's Heavily oc'ed? (I have one atm but plan on getting 2 soon.)


Good God, you sure...might wanna add more 290's to even out the reason for all those rads..







That is more than enough!


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Good God, you sure...might wanna add more 290's to even out the reason for all those rads..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is more than enough!


Alright. I got some birthday money, so you know what that means







.

Another question: Now that the Scythe Gentle Typhoons are gone, or have incredibly high prices, what fans should i get for the 2 monstas. I don't want to pay like 25-30 bucks per fan either. (I'm looking for a silent system too)


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright. I got some birthday money, so you know what that means
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Another question: Now that the Scythe Gentle Typhoons are gone, or have incredibly high prices, what fans should i get for the 2 monstas. I don't want to pay like 25-30 bucks per fan either. (I'm looking for a silent system too)


Best Static Psi fans have pros and cons...loud-silent-pushes more air..I won't recommend ya to one type, but give this a read thru..might get a better opinion on some of the different mfg's http://www.overclock.net/t/1403537/best-performing-radiator-fans-120mm


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Best Static Psi fans have pros and cons...loud-silent-pushes more air..I won't recommend ya to one type, but give this a read thru..might get a better opinion on some of the different mfg's http://www.overclock.net/t/1403537/best-performing-radiator-fans-120mm


Alright thanks dude ill look into it. +rep


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright thanks dude ill look into it. +rep


Welcomes..how ya like the G750? Currently using it with Thief, TR, not too shabby I'd say.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Welcomes..how ya like the G75? Currently using it with Thief, TR, not too shabby I'd say.


I love it dude. I pretty much use it for everything, (Unless i'm gaming and recording). I can play watch dogs on med/high so its not too bad. What Graphics card does yours have?


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> I love it dude. I pretty much use it for everything, (Unless i'm gaming and recording). I can play watch dogs on med/high so its not too bad. What Graphics card does yours have?


You have the higher end laptop, just notice it's a 750..mine is a G75V w/ I7 3630QM and GTX 660M


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> You have the higher end laptop, just notice it's a 750..mine is a G75V w/ I7 3630QM and GTX 660M


Oh, the year newer. But yeah, it is really good!


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @zzorro are all of your radiators exhausting air? Most if not all of them should be intakes for best performance.


yes.. all radiators exhausting air








and thank you for the explanation


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright. I got some birthday money, so you know what that means
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Another question: Now that the Scythe Gentle Typhoons are gone, or have incredibly high prices, what fans should i get for the 2 monstas. I don't want to pay like 25-30 bucks per fan either. (I'm looking for a silent system too)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Best Static Psi fans have pros and cons...loud-silent-pushes more air..I won't recommend ya to one type, but give this a read thru..might get a better opinion on some of the different mfg's http://www.overclock.net/t/1403537/best-performing-radiator-fans-120mm


I remember that thread.

Things you should know about "best fan" threads: there's always posts from people who say fan X is great, even though they've never tried other fans; there's always people who quote static pressure specs even though these are misleading; manufacturers don't provide the data you need to know to make an informed choice, but hardly anyone seems to realise; some fans are very popular by reputation or good marketing rather than by objective testing.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Well...Which fans do you guys prefer for a mix of performance/silence? I wish i could just get some more AP-14/15's


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I remember that thread.
> 
> Things you should know about "best fan" threads: there's always posts from people who say fan X is great, even though they've never tried other fans; there's always people who quote static pressure specs even though these are misleading; manufacturers don't provide the data you need to know to make an informed choice, but hardly anyone seems to realise; some fans are very popular by reputation or good marketing rather than by objective testing.


This ^
I like noctuas NF-F12 fans.. at 900-1000 RPM they are vary quiet and can handle my radiators (30mm low FPI) but are ugly as hell.. but I hear they have made a black edition..
Again, this is from own experience.. and I havent tried any of the other popular fans.. well the spectra pro.. but those are garbage. looks cool though.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> This ^
> I like noctuas NF-F12 fans.. at 900-1000 RPM they are vary quiet and can handle my radiators (30mm low FPI) but are ugly as hell.. but I hear they have made a black edition..
> Again, this is from own experience.. and I havent tried any of the other popular fans.. well the spectra pro.. but those are garbage. looks cool though.


Yeah. I'm thinking the E-Loops since it is gonna be a crazy thick rad (Alphacool Monsta)


----------



## morencyam

I'm still a fan of Coolermaster R4's. I was using them on both my radiators before my Typhoons. The Typhoons did drop temps a few degrees at the same speed and were also noticeably quieter, but I would still go back to R4's if I ever had to get new rad fans. Plus they are reasonably priced compared to something like Noctuas or E-Loops


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm still a fan of Coolermaster R4's. I was using them on both my radiators before my Typhoons. The Typhoons did drop temps a few degrees at the same speed and were also noticeably quieter, but I would still go back to R4's if I ever had to get new rad fans.


I'm not too big a fan of those. I bought a set of 4, and 3 out of the 4 went bad in <4 months. Their RMA process was smooth though.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Cougar makes some pretty decent fans. I was using their pwm version, but one of the fans started rattling when it was up top in my case. I switched them out for some nf-12s that I got cheap and I'm really happy with them even if they are ugly.


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I doubt it.
> 
> I have a 420mm on top and 240mm Monsta on bottom, 3930k @ 4.5GHz and 2x R9 290's in CrossfireX (Currently) at stock. I know it's summer already (We've been hit with 40ºC already, room at ambients of 30-32ºC), but even in winter, temperatures were not optimal, with the CPU hitting anywhere from 67-72ºC and GPU's as high as 55-56ºC, this is with intensive games like Battlefield 4.
> 
> Sure the 3930k takes lot more power than 3770k, but you have way less radiator spacing than I do. Might want to do for 360+240 at least. Personally I am considering adding an external 360mm, or a 140mm rear.


What voltage is your 3930k running at? Hmm. I never thought dual 240's would be cutting it short. Well, I will see if I can squeeze another 240 in somewhere, but it may be hard.


----------



## minicooper1

Inviato dal mio SM-N9005 con Tapatalk 2


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> What voltage is your 3930k running at? Hmm. I never thought dual 240's would be cutting it short. Well, I will see if I can squeeze another 240 in somewhere, but it may be hard.


Around 1.29-1.3v.









It's not a high OC at all.


----------



## minicooper1

Inviato dal mio SM-N9005 con Tapatalk 2


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> I'm not too big a fan of those. I bought a set of 4, and 3 out of the 4 went bad in <4 months. Their RMA process was smooth though.


I currently have 2 delta 120 mm leaf blowers on mine. But splitting the cable +- to the psu and the white and blue to the cpu header. On 10% I can't hear them at all. At 45% > there loud. But I'm moving 300 cfm according to delta speck sheet.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I currently have 2 delta 120 mm leaf blowers on mine. But splitting the cable +- to the psu and the white and blue to the cpu header. On 10% I can't hear them at all. At 45% > there loud. But I'm moving 300 cfm according to delta speck sheet.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I currently have 2 delta 120 mm leaf blowers on mine. But splitting the cable +- to the psu and the white and blue to the cpu header. On 10% I can't hear them at all. At 45% > there loud. But I'm moving 300 cfm according to delta speck sheet.


Yeah I've got AFBs on my rads. I don't get why more people don't use them especially with GTs gone. Static pressure is off the charts and if you use a fan controller you can tune the noise level to whatever.

They are costly. But excellent fans. Well built as well. Heaviest fans I've ever used.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Yeah I've got AFBs on my rads. I don't get why more people don't use them especially with GTs gone. Static pressure is off the charts and if you use a fan controller you can tune the noise level to whatever.
> 
> They are costly. But excellent fans. Well built as well. Heaviest fans I've ever used.


Are these the fans you have? They have some insane specs!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Deltas are great fans but don't forget that in Water cooling these days is all about noise x performance balance. Delta achieve very high flow through a rad at noise cost and running at very high speeds. That is why GT's were so loved by folks in WC due to very low noise to high performance balance. At the same noise level GTs still beat in CFM through a rad the delta fans. Manufacturers specs usually give you CFM at zero restriction (unmounted condition) which does not translate to the use of fans while mounted in the case/rad. I suggest you take a look no Martinliquidlab fan test where 50 different fans (including delta) are charted in terms of CFM and noise level.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/


----------



## chann3l

Finished my Corsair 540 build. Below are just a few pics and here's a link to the build log and more pics http://www.overclock.net/t/1494848/corsair-540-air-watercooled-build-log-progress-updates#post_22424489


----------



## Hefner

I think those wanting great silent rad fans should stick around and wait a little bit. Noctua is working on some fans with active noise cancellation, which supposedly will allow their fans to take the #1 spot in noise performance ratio.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQNhDMQOPa4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-atLQYr14zI

I'm stocked!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> yes.. all radiators exhausting air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and thank you for the explanation


So, im assuming you leave the side panels off?

If you keep then on, where do you get fresh air for the fans??


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Anyone have the McMaster links for 1/2 acrylic tubing along with the flex core for bending?


----------



## fakeblood

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01779_zps719f0389.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01864_zps6d87a179.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01861_zps79893c85.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01860_zps4ca5c876.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01868_zpsd0e624b8.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01873_zps97b74a91.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01871_zps2df024df.jpg.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> Anyone have the McMaster links for 1/2 acrylic tubing along with the flex core for bending?


1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, 6' Length acrylic tube and 9mm o-ring cord from mcmaster-carr for the insert (as suggested by IT Diva).









Do note that McMaster-Carr doesn't tell you what the shipping is when you order, unless maybe you contact them and ask. The tubing was pretty affordable altogether but I did wind up paying as much or more for the shipping than I did for four 6' pieces by themselves.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01779_zps719f0389.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01864_zps6d87a179.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01861_zps79893c85.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01860_zps4ca5c876.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01868_zpsd0e624b8.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01873_zps97b74a91.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01871_zps2df024df.jpg.html










I LUV this build! Awesomeness.









I'm going to have to give dying some Gentle Typhoons a try.
Did you heat the blades off or remove the clips? Is there a guide somewhere posted for the heatgun method?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Yeah I've got AFBs on my rads. I don't get why more people don't use them especially with GTs gone. Static pressure is off the charts and if you use a fan controller you can tune the noise level to whatever.
> 
> They are costly. But excellent fans. Well built as well. Heaviest fans I've ever used.


I used EFB1212SHE 120mm Delta's for many years and loved the high CFM's and static pressure, but without doing research prior to that build they were just way overkill for my setup. I'm using Black Ice Extreme radiators with a low fin count (9 per inch) with no need for a high static pressure fan like you would use in a high fin count (20-30+ per inch) radiator. So I made the move to Artic Cooling F-12's and don't need the fan controller anymore and the noise level is almost nill...

Delta's would be my first choice for a much more dense radiator than what I'm using at this time.


----------



## Krahe

Beautiful work Fakeblood, what fittings are those? Primochill?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Beautiful work Fakeblood, what fittings are those? Primochill?


They are EK HD fittings and EK CSQ 90s


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> yes.. all radiators exhausting air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and thank you for the explanation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, im assuming you leave the side panels off?
> 
> If you keep then on, where do you get fresh air for the fans??
Click to expand...

He is from Malaysia. Ambient temp is >32C all year round. I see one thing if all radiators are intake; if he don't have very good exhaust fan(s), hot air basically trapped inside the case & this can increase water temp instead of lower it. Temp inside the case is only few degrees above ambient. He is better with exhaust than intake.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Things you should know about "best fan" threads: there's always posts from people who say fan X is great, even though they've never tried other fans; there's always people who quote static pressure specs even though these are misleading; manufacturers don't provide the data you need to know to make an informed choice, but hardly anyone seems to realise; some fans are very popular by reputation or good marketing rather than by objective testing.


You see what I mean.

No disrespect to any of you lovely people, I know you are just trying to be helpful and enthusiastic about products that you enjoy







but nevertheless...

Some post about their limited experience with fans:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> I like noctuas NF-F12 fans.. Again, this is from own experience.. and I havent tried any of the other popular fans.. well the spectra pro.. but those are garbage. looks cool though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm still a fan of Coolermaster R4's. I was using them on both my radiators before my Typhoons. The Typhoons did drop temps a few degrees at the same speed and were also noticeably quieter, but I would still go back to R4's if I ever had to get new rad fans. Plus they are reasonably priced compared to something like Noctuas or E-Loops


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Cougar makes some pretty decent fans. I was using their pwm version, but one of the fans started rattling when it was up top in my case. I switched them out for some nf-12s that I got cheap and I'm really happy with them even if they are ugly.


Some quote manufacturer specs that aren't measured on a radiator. Static pressure rating may be a good indication, it may be misleading (*read this!*). Noise dB(A) ratings don't take tonal qualities into account.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I currently have 2 delta 120 mm leaf blowers on mine. But splitting the cable +- to the psu and the white and blue to the cpu header. On 10% I can't hear them at all. At 45% > there loud. But *I'm moving 300 cfm* according to delta speck sheet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Yeah I've got AFBs on my rads. I don't get why more people don't use them especially with GTs gone. *Static pressure is off the charts* and if you use a fan controller you can tune the noise level to whatever. They are costly. But excellent fans. Well built as well. Heaviest fans I've ever used.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I used EFB1212SHE 120mm Delta's for many years and *loved the high CFM's and static pressure*, but without doing research prior to that build they were just way overkill for my setup. I'm using Black Ice Extreme radiators with a low fin count (9 per inch) with no need for a high static pressure fan like you would use in a high fin count (20-30+ per inch) radiator. So I made the move to Artic Cooling F-12's and don't need the fan controller anymore and the noise level is almost nill...


Some believe the marketing hype








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I think those wanting great silent rad fans should stick around and wait a little bit. Noctua is working on some fans with active noise cancellation, which supposedly will allow their fans to take the #1 spot in noise performance ratio.


And only one person sends you to an independent reviewer (+1 rep) although that test is from 2010
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Deltas are great fans but don't forget that in Water cooling these days is all about noise x performance balance. Delta achieve very high flow through a rad at noise cost and running at very high speeds. That is why GT's were so loved by folks in WC due to very low noise to high performance balance. At the same noise level GTs still beat in CFM through a rad the delta fans. Manufacturers specs usually give you CFM at zero restriction (unmounted condition) which does not translate to the use of fans while mounted in the case/rad. I suggest you take a look no Martinliquidlab fan test where 50 different fans (including delta) are charted in terms of CFM and noise level.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/


Again, nobody intends to mislead you. Some of the fans people suggest to you are genuinely good, some are just better than what they tried before, some are performing well because they are being run hard, some are quiet because they are being run slowly.

When I was looking for a high pressure 140mm fan, I read many suggestions, many reviews, and then bought 4 different fans as a kind of shortlist. Maybe I missed out on the "best" fan, but I tried to make it a bit objective. I tested each fan on my own rig and with my own ears and picked what I felt was the best performing at the least noise. Absolutely useless test for everyone else, but at least I felt like I'd done a little bit of due diligence.



So I'm a bit cynical, but I just wary that you @EpIcSnIpErZ23 will spend your birthday money on "best" fans that are not. Just pick something nice looking and make sure the store has a returns policy if they turn out to be too noisy for you


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01779_zps719f0389.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01864_zps6d87a179.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01861_zps79893c85.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01860_zps4ca5c876.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01868_zpsd0e624b8.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01873_zps97b74a91.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01871_zps2df024df.jpg.html


----------



## Noviets

Has anyone had this problem before?
I have three NB-eLoops on channel 1 in my fan controller.

The fans are 0.32A per, while the controller is rated for 1.67A Max.

But for some reason, whenever I power on my machine, two fans start fine, but the 3rd fan will just "Twitch" constantly. I can fix it by turing the channel onto full speed, then turning it back down where it was (which is like 1/4 speed, with the dial at 9oclock).

Do I need a more powerful controller?


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Has anyone had this problem before?
> I have three NB-eLoops on channel 1 in my fan controller.
> 
> The fans are 0.32A per, while the controller is rated for 1.67A Max.
> 
> But for some reason, whenever I power on my machine, two fans start fine, but the 3rd fan will just "Twitch" constantly. I can fix it by turing the channel onto full speed, then turning it back down where it was (which is like 1/4 speed, with the dial at 9oclock).
> 
> Do I need a more powerful controller?


I have the same issue with my Scythe Kazemaster II and Bitfenix Spectre. My Corsair SP fan revs up and down and another SP fan won't start at all. It seems startup voltage may be an issue with low watt fan controllers.

Try a Lamptron controller. I hear it solves everyone's issues.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Things you should know about "best fan" threads: there's always posts from people who say fan X is great, even though they've never tried other fans; there's always people who quote static pressure specs even though these are misleading; manufacturers don't provide the data you need to know to make an informed choice, but hardly anyone seems to realise; some fans are very popular by reputation or good marketing rather than by objective testing.
> 
> 
> 
> You see what I mean.
> 
> No disrespect to any of you lovely people, I know you are just trying to be helpful and enthusiastic about products that you enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but nevertheless...
> 
> Some post about their limited experience with fans:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> I like noctuas NF-F12 fans.. Again, this is from own experience.. and I havent tried any of the other popular fans.. well the spectra pro.. but those are garbage. looks cool though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm still a fan of Coolermaster R4's. I was using them on both my radiators before my Typhoons. The Typhoons did drop temps a few degrees at the same speed and were also noticeably quieter, but I would still go back to R4's if I ever had to get new rad fans. Plus they are reasonably priced compared to something like Noctuas or E-Loops
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Cougar makes some pretty decent fans. I was using their pwm version, but one of the fans started rattling when it was up top in my case. I switched them out for some nf-12s that I got cheap and I'm really happy with them even if they are ugly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Some quote manufacturer specs that aren't measured on a radiator. Static pressure rating may be a good indication, it may be misleading (*read this!*). Noise dB(A) ratings don't take tonal qualities into account.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I currently have 2 delta 120 mm leaf blowers on mine. But splitting the cable +- to the psu and the white and blue to the cpu header. On 10% I can't hear them at all. At 45% > there loud. But *I'm moving 300 cfm* according to delta speck sheet.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Yeah I've got AFBs on my rads. I don't get why more people don't use them especially with GTs gone. *Static pressure is off the charts* and if you use a fan controller you can tune the noise level to whatever. They are costly. But excellent fans. Well built as well. Heaviest fans I've ever used.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I used EFB1212SHE 120mm Delta's for many years and *loved the high CFM's and static pressure*, but without doing research prior to that build they were just way overkill for my setup. I'm using Black Ice Extreme radiators with a low fin count (9 per inch) with no need for a high static pressure fan like you would use in a high fin count (20-30+ per inch) radiator. So I made the move to Artic Cooling F-12's and don't need the fan controller anymore and the noise level is almost nill...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Some believe the marketing hype
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I think those wanting great silent rad fans should stick around and wait a little bit. Noctua is working on some fans with active noise cancellation, which supposedly will allow their fans to take the #1 spot in noise performance ratio.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And only one person sends you to an independent reviewer (+1 rep) although that test is from 2010
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Deltas are great fans but don't forget that in Water cooling these days is all about noise x performance balance. Delta achieve very high flow through a rad at noise cost and running at very high speeds. That is why GT's were so loved by folks in WC due to very low noise to high performance balance. At the same noise level GTs still beat in CFM through a rad the delta fans. Manufacturers specs usually give you CFM at zero restriction (unmounted condition) which does not translate to the use of fans while mounted in the case/rad. I suggest you take a look no Martinliquidlab fan test where 50 different fans (including delta) are charted in terms of CFM and noise level.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again, nobody intends to mislead you. Some of the fans people suggest to you are genuinely good, some are just better than what they tried before, some are performing well because they are being run hard, some are quiet because they are being run slowly.
> 
> When I was looking for a high pressure 140mm fan, I read many suggestions, many reviews, and then bought 4 different fans as a kind of shortlist. Maybe I missed out on the "best" fan, but I tried to make it a bit objective. I tested each fan on my own rig and with my own ears and picked what I felt was the best performing at the least noise. Absolutely useless test for everyone else, but at least I felt like I'd done a little bit of due diligence.
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm a bit cynical, but I just wary that you @EpIcSnIpErZ23 will spend your birthday money on "best" fans that are not. Just pick something nice looking and make sure the store has a returns policy if they turn out to be too noisy for you
Click to expand...

And that is why I inevitably regret getting involved in 'best fan' threads. Being a reviewer i get the opportunity to try ,test, bench all kind of product. I have boxes and boxes of fans I purchased based on the manufacturers 'specs' most not making the cut.

trying to impart the experience I have had in finding the right fan for the job is almost always met with some inaccurate or just plain nasty comments from those who wish to defend their purchase or catalog of wisdom they have accumulated from the two fans they have tried.

Sometimes you just can't win, or no good deed etc.

c'est la vie.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Has anyone had this problem before?
> I have three NB-eLoops on channel 1 in my fan controller.
> 
> The fans are 0.32A per, while the controller is rated for 1.67A Max.
> 
> But for some reason, whenever I power on my machine, two fans start fine, but the 3rd fan will just "Twitch" constantly. I can fix it by turing the channel onto full speed, then turning it back down where it was (which is like 1/4 speed, with the dial at 9oclock).
> 
> Do I need a more powerful controller?


Not necessarily - just better control










Spoiler: I'm an e-Loop fan



 



I can't help but laugh at the product description....
NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-4 120mm x 25mm Ultra Silent Bionic Blade Fan - 2400 RPM
There is no way possible a fan running at 2400 rpm will ever be silent - silent being very debatable








Back down at 1200 and they're fine.

and yes the B12-4's are power hungry beasts, at 100 % my 4 run at 1.2 amps, start up though the spike is closer to 1.9 amps
Have you got volts and/or amps readings you can see what the draw is at startup

If your fan controller can't start them all up at your chosen reduced voltage, you might need to look for a controller with start up voltage boost - looks at Aquaero.
OR run the fans at speed that they do spin up at


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> So, im assuming you leave the side panels off?
> 
> If you keep then on, where do you get fresh air for the fans??


yes i leave the side panels off
NZXT H630 not come with window side panel..
and my room Ambient temp is 20c.. 24/7 A/Cond on.. hehe








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> He is from Malaysia. Ambient temp is >32C all year round. I see one thing if all radiators are intake; if he don't have very good exhaust fan(s), hot air basically trapped inside the case & this can increase water temp instead of lower it. Temp inside the case is only few degrees above ambient. He is better with exhaust than intake.


haha org malaysia juga ya.. igat hang mai dri hongkong wahahaha








for ur info my cpu 4.6MHz oc temp 27 to 32c idea and 40c to 50c when load.. for gpu GTX480 clock 850 oc x2sli 34c to 38c.. when full load(gaming) 45c to 55c








intake fan exhaust look nice for me..easy hehe


----------



## siffonen

Sleeved extensions came today from ensourced and these look better than i imagined:









8-pin eps and 4x 6+2-pin pci-extensions was also included with same pattern.
Still waiting for a few fittings, so i can start my upgrade.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> So, im assuming you leave the side panels off?
> 
> If you keep then on, where do you get fresh air for the fans??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes i leave the side panels off
> NZXT H630 not come with window side panel..
> and my room Ambient temp is 20c.. 24/7 A/Cond on.. hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> He is from Malaysia. Ambient temp is >32C all year round. I see one thing if all radiators are intake; if he don't have very good exhaust fan(s), hot air basically trapped inside the case & this can increase water temp instead of lower it. Temp inside the case is only few degrees above ambient. He is better with exhaust than intake.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha org malaysia juga ya.. igat hang mai dri hongkong wahahaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for ur info my cpu 4.6MHz oc temp 27 to 32c idea and 40c to 50c when load.. for gpu GTX480 clock 850 oc x2sli 34c to 38c.. when full load(gaming) 45c to 55c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> intake fan exhaust look nice for me..easy hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Please disregard my comment earlier then if you have A/C 24/7. I did figured you done that for aesthetic.







I have all rads intake & it's the worst. Water temp actually increase & getting hot. Since I'm too lazy to flip the fans, I just take off the side panel whenever I play games or benching. The devices temps (CPU, GPU, etc) remain reasonable, just the water temp is the problem. Side panel off fixed the latter. I only have tiny exhaust fan at the back. Tiny in terms of specs.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You see what I mean.
> 
> No disrespect to any of you lovely people, I know you are just trying to be helpful and enthusiastic about products that you enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but nevertheless...
> 
> Some post about their limited experience with fans:
> 
> Some quote manufacturer specs that aren't measured on a radiator. Static pressure rating may be a good indication, it may be misleading (*read this!*). Noise dB(A) ratings don't take tonal qualities into account.
> 
> Some believe the marketing hype
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And only one person sends you to an independent reviewer (+1 rep) although that test is from 2010
> Again, nobody intends to mislead you. Some of the fans people suggest to you are genuinely good, some are just better than what they tried before, some are performing well because they are being run hard, some are quiet because they are being run slowly.
> 
> When I was looking for a high pressure 140mm fan, I read many suggestions, many reviews, and then bought 4 different fans as a kind of shortlist. Maybe I missed out on the "best" fan, but I tried to make it a bit objective. I tested each fan on my own rig and with my own ears and picked what I felt was the best performing at the least noise. Absolutely useless test for everyone else, but at least I felt like I'd done a little bit of due diligence.
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm a bit cynical, but I just wary that you @EpIcSnIpErZ23 will spend your birthday money on "best" fans that are not. Just pick something nice looking and make sure the store has a returns policy if they turn out to be too noisy for you


The marketing hype? I don't think I've ever seen marketing for Deltas.

Anyway the fans I use are these for the guy who asked. Silent undervolted and performance is as good as anything. Not cheap though. At least not cheap from FCPU. You can find them for much less if you look though.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15715/fan-986/Delta_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_827_CFM_AFB1212H-R00_Bare_Wire.html?tl=g36c15s60


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I redid my loop this weekend to include my gpu. I think it turned out well. When I get money I may get a thicker rad for up front.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright. I got some birthday money, so you know what that means
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Another question: Now that the Scythe Gentle Typhoons are gone, or have incredibly high prices, what fans should i get for the 2 monstas. I don't want to pay like 25-30 bucks per fan either. (I'm looking for a silent system too)


Go ahead and get you some of these if you're concerned with prices. They're rebranded eloops.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Go ahead and get you some of these if you're concerned withe prices. They're rebranded eloops.


They also have the 1000rpm in black and 1600rpm in red.
Main difference with the original eloop is the package, there isn't the long and short cables extension too.
all the accessory of the NB branded eLoop

and phobya one, the fan and 4 screw.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Has anyone had this problem before?
> I have three NB-eLoops on channel 1 in my fan controller.
> 
> The fans are 0.32A per, while the controller is rated for 1.67A Max.
> 
> But for some reason, whenever I power on my machine, two fans start fine, but the 3rd fan will just "Twitch" constantly. I can fix it by turing the channel onto full speed, then turning it back down where it was (which is like 1/4 speed, with the dial at 9oclock).
> 
> Do I need a more powerful controller?


Did you try just upping the rpm slightly?

One thing I found out when connecting multiple fans to a header is that rpm will drop per fan added. So say you have one fan that maxes out at say 1200rpm, then add another of the same exact fan both would only spin at 1150 rpm max and so on and so on. Could be your lower rpm voltage is just not enough to reach minimum rpm with all 3 connected. (could also be a slight variance with that one fan)

My experience comes from only a coulpe of sub 50 fan controllers and motherboards. Havent used any of the higher end stuff.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Frozen still have like 170 GT AP13 in stock folks. Good thing I have like 16 AP15 for my next build. The challenge will be to dye or paint the blades in white or black...

Thks Wisk for the rep. Fan preference is like underwear color... It is sad that people get fooled by partial information given by manufacturers specs (and I mean by that static pressure at zero restriction). What we do need as consumers is to have the full P-q curve reported so we can actually compare fans one to another and take an informed decision.

Beautiful build Fakeblood. I second uni- question. Did you dye those GTs or are they the ~4000 rpm model? Any link to a guide how to do it?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> The marketing hype? I don't think I've ever seen marketing for Deltas.


You were quoted for saying "static pressure is off the charts", not for believing marketing hype. Static pressure is the green circle on the chart, indeed it's very high for the fan you mention. Actual pressure while on a rad is somewhere in the purple area, not along the red line though, because you are undervolting. You'd need to extrapolate the line corresponding to H on that chart, for the volts you are running, then compare to GTs at similar rpms.



To be clear, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with those Deltas, just that the 6.25 mmH2O mentioned in the data sheet does not correspond with real life use.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Did you try just upping the rpm slightly?
> 
> One thing I found out when connecting multiple fans to a header is that rpm will drop per fan added. So say you have one fan that maxes out at say 1200rpm, then add another of the same exact fan both would only spin at 1150 rpm max and so on and so on. Could be your lower rpm voltage is just not enough to reach minimum rpm with all 3 connected. (could also be a slight variance with that one fan)
> 
> My experience comes from only a coulpe of sub 50 fan controllers and motherboards. Havent used any of the higher end stuff.


Yeah I have, It's very inconsistant, sometimes It starts, sometimes it doesn't.

I've had it at max for a while before which still took 10+ seconds to actually start spinning (assuming it needed to wait for the other fans to max out and settle?)
When I first plugged all the fans in, I didnt actually have a problem with the controller not starting them all, it only happened after I added 2x 80mm stock AMD heatsink fans to the mosfet and back of the cpu socket. I'm thinking that the controller itself may be poorly made, or the specs for either the fans or the controller was inaccurate. I've also noticed the LED light on the channels (which indicates the fan is on) will sometimes turn off for a few seconds, then back on again.

I'm also wondering if the Controller may be drawing current eractically which is what was causing my CCFL's to keep blowing.

I bought the Lamptron 4 port Alum ccfl inverter, but I haven't wired it up yet because I'm concered that I have other issues like the fan controller which may be contributing towards my previous inverters blowing.

Right now I have my D5, 6x eLoops, 2x80mm stock heatsink AMD fans, 1 standard seagate HDD, and in the future the lamptron 4x inverter (for 2x 30cm and 2x20cm CCFL's). Is that too much draw for a single molex rail?
The powersupply is a Toughpower XT 875 from Thermaltake Link Here


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Go ahead and get you some of these if you're concerned withe prices. They're rebranded eloops.


I think i'm gonna grab a few of these to put on two more 360 rads. Thanks for all your help and comments!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I redid my loop this weekend to include my gpu. I think it turned out well. When I get money I may get a thicker rad for up front.


Looking pretty good. I would suggest two more fans on the inside of that rad for push/pull. You have the room; will improve aesthetics as well as help performance.

Edit: On this rad and the thicker one if you do go that route.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You were quoted for saying "static pressure is off the charts", not for believing marketing hype. Static pressure is the green circle on the chart, indeed it's very high for the fan you mention. Actual pressure while on a rad is somewhere in the purple area, not along the red line though, because you are undervolting. You'd need to extrapolate the line corresponding to H on that chart, for the volts you are running, then compare to GTs at similar rpms.
> 
> 
> 
> To be clear, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with those Deltas, just that the 6.25 mmH2O mentioned in the data sheet does not correspond with real life use.


I wasn't really comparing them to GTs. GTs for all intents and purposes aren't really a thing anymore.

My point was just that they are excellent fans recomended by people on OCN I trust. Would not surprise me if they were near GT performance or better but I don't know enough about it to even make a guess. I know they are much better then common recomendations however like Noctuas and Corsair SPs.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Did you try just upping the rpm slightly?
> 
> One thing I found out when connecting multiple fans to a header is that rpm will drop per fan added. So say you have one fan that maxes out at say 1200rpm, then add another of the same exact fan both would only spin at 1150 rpm max and so on and so on. Could be your lower rpm voltage is just not enough to reach minimum rpm with all 3 connected. (could also be a slight variance with that one fan)
> 
> My experience comes from only a coulpe of sub 50 fan controllers and motherboards. Havent used any of the higher end stuff.


This may not be your problem... I had a similar experince with my NB multiframes... See if you can push the fan blades back in the frame. Mine had popped out during shipping and was doing as you desribed... Russ


----------



## jpetrach

This is my rosewill case with 2 delta 120 mm fans on the rad in the pull configuration.

I never intend to use these over 30% but for benchmarking it moves a lot of air

Rad is the hadron hydro modular radiator. (Mod)

http://youtu.be/MXuUt_HP7wU


----------



## VSG

Nice video, +1


----------



## Stateless

I am going to go Tri-SLI on my Rig. I have a Rampage IV Extreme Motherboard and should I be putting each card stacked using slot 1, 2, 3 PCI? Also, what is the consensus on going serial or parallel with the flow from one card to another card? Thanks in advance!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I love my Delta 120's, sure they're loud but [email protected] they move some air. Even though when I have my fan profile to silent they're pretty quiet


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I am going to go Tri-SLI on my Rig. I have a Rampage IV Extreme Motherboard and should I be putting each card stacked using slot 1, 2, 3 PCI? Also, what is the consensus on going serial or parallel with the flow from one card to another card? Thanks in advance!


Hi,

You are probably going to get a lot of nay sayers over this, but I have extensive experience with this area and making sure you have enough pump/flow/pressure, parallel is the way to go with three or four cards.

It takes a substantial amount of flow ( I run quadfire and use three D5's) but parallel provides an 6-8c difference in temps in the last two systems i have built.

I cannot stress enough however to make sure that you have sufficient flow as to not develop air pockets in the GPU water jackets.

This is my 7970 system and the GPU temps are 37-41c at load.


----------



## Stateless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hi,
> You are probably going to get a lot of nay sayers over this, but I have extensive experience with this area and making sure you have enough pump/flow/pressure, parallel is the way to go with three or four cards.
> It takes a substantial amount of flow ( I run quadfire and use three D5's) but parallel provides an 6-8c difference in temps in the last two systems i have built.
> I cannot stress enough however to make sure that you have sufficient flow as to not develop air pockets in the GPU water jackets.
> 
> This is my 7970 system and the GPU temps are 37-41c at load.


Thanks for the input. In my SLI setup I have it going parallel. However, I have it going into card 1, then parallel going into card 2 and then it exits out of card 2. Is it better to have it go into one port of card one, parallel to the other cards and have it go out of the same card #1 in the other port. I hope that makes sense? hehe


----------



## slothiraptor

Ugh. I just got my order from frozencpu and it was the wrong item.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hi,
> You are probably going to get a lot of nay sayers over this, but I have extensive experience with this area and making sure you have enough pump/flow/pressure, parallel is the way to go with three or four cards.
> It takes a substantial amount of flow ( I run quadfire and use three D5's) but parallel provides an 6-8c difference in temps in the last two systems i have built.
> I cannot stress enough however to make sure that you have sufficient flow as to not develop air pockets in the GPU water jackets.
> 
> This is my 7970 system and the GPU temps are 37-41c at load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. In my SLI setup I have it going parallel. However, I have it going into card 1, then parallel going into card 2 and then it exits out of card 2. Is it better to have it go into one port of card one, parallel to the other cards and have it go out of the same card #1 in the other port. I hope that makes sense? hehe
Click to expand...

 think so,

in the pic the line on the left is filling the entire left side ports pushing water into all four blocks at the same time and exiting out the right line if thats what you meant


----------



## Stateless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> think so,
> in the pic the line on the left is filling the entire left side ports pushing water into all four blocks at the same time and exiting out the right line if thats what you meant


Yeah, in your shot, you have the water going into the first card and also going out of the first card. Is this better than having it exit out of the last card? In my current parallel setup, which my temps have been fantastic, it goes into one card, 2 pipes connect card 1 to card 2 and it exits out of card 2. With going 3-way, I just want the best possible set up.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> think so,
> in the pic the line on the left is filling the entire left side ports pushing water into all four blocks at the same time and exiting out the right line if thats what you meant
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, in your shot, you have the water going into the first card and also going out of the first card. Is this better than having it exit out of the last card? In my current parallel setup, which my temps have been fantastic, it goes into one card, 2 pipes connect card 1 to card 2 and it exits out of card 2. With going 3-way, I just want the best possible set up.
Click to expand...

 well with parallel each card gets its own water at the same time and water is not warmed and then the same water sent to the next card. I have found that with 2 cards there is not much of a difference, however with 3 and 4 cards there is.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Ugh. I just got my order from frozencpu and it was the wrong item.


Man, that sucks. Hardly a common problem, but little good that fact does you right now. I thought Sidewinder sent me a 655 instead of a 35X recently but it was just the 655 box lol.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Man, that sucks. Hardly a common problem, but little good that fact does you right now. I thought Sidewinder sent me a 655 instead of a 35X recently but it was just the 655 box lol.


Ya. I was excited to finally finish my build today but I guess I'll have to wait a week.


----------



## Jeronbernal

How would you setup a parallel 2way sli wc bridge come from below and out the top? I'm replacing my ek bridge and link system with tubing

Like this?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> How would you setup a parallel 2way sli wc bridge come from below and out the top? I'm replacing my ek bridge and link system with tubing
> 
> Like this?


yep, like this. Enter below at one side, then two tubes connecting the cards and then out on top at the other side (in relation to the bottom entrance).

Why are you getting rid of the acrylic?


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep, like this. Enter below at one side, then two tubes connecting the cards and then out on top at the other side (in relation to the bottom entrance).
> 
> Why are you getting rid of the acrylic?


Thank you

I'm not getting rid of my acrylic tubing, I'm just getting rid of the block that Is used to connect the two video cards together so I can replace it with acrylic tubing, hopefully give it a more... Subtle look

I'm contemplating whether I should go serial or parallel


----------



## ozzy1925

I checked alphacool web site and it writes they use m3x30mm screws for the radiators.Today i bought extra m3x30mm screws, they look almost same but a little thicker than the alpha ones.I also got a package from cold zero today and i asked Ricardo he says the screws that came in my package are m3x30mm but these are also thicker than the alpha ones.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Today i bought extra m3x30mm screws, they look almost same but a little thicker than the alpha ones.


Where did you buy them? Any photo for comparison?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Where did you buy them? Any photo for comparison?


from a local shop, rightone is alpha


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> from a local shop, rightone is alpha


The unthreaded part of the shank is a tiny bit thicker, but the thread is the same width and pitch as the Alphacool ones. You should be fine with those


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The unthreaded part of the shank is a tiny bit thicker, but the thread is the same width and pitch as the Alphacool ones. You should be fine with those


yea, i think the same but i will measure tonight with vernier caliper to make sure because the alpha one goes easier into hole than the other.

edit: i measured now alphacool is 2.85mm others are 2.90mm .Will they harm the hole?


----------



## luciddreamer124

Finished with my Mercury S3:



















More pictures in my build log!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bitspower Pump Cooler For DDC/MCP355.

Features:

1. Unique Design.

2. Metal Case For Excellent Heat Dissipation.

3. High Durability Sandblasting Process In Anodize Treatment.

4. RoHs Compliant.

Dimensions: 62x62x30.3MM

Color : Abrasive Black Sparkle (BK2)/ Golden/Red/White

Material : Aluminum.

Included :

1. Back Parts x 1PCS.

2. Thermal PAD x 1PCS.

3. Screw x 1Set.

More colours!!


----------



## kcuestag

^Looks amazing, I wish I was brave enough to go acrylic soon, maybe during the summer.









I need an advice, here's current state of my rig:




The tubing, even though it's Advanced LRT, it's getting a bit yellowish (Haven't changed it in 7 months). I just ordered white tubing instead, now the question is, should I keep the Pastel White (To see it on reservoir and waterblocks), or go back to distilled water?


----------



## MrBlunt

how about a new color?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> how about a new color?


I don't like any other color as coolant, I do like red, but it's harder to maintain due to the pH... White was the easiest.









Wondering if the pastel white with the white tubing will look good?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> ^Looks amazing, I wish I was brave enough to go acrylic soon, maybe during the summer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need an advice, here's current state of my rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing, even though it's Advanced LRT, it's getting a bit yellowish (Haven't changed it in 7 months). I just ordered white tubing instead, now the question is, should I keep the Pastel White (To see it on reservoir and waterblocks), or go back to distilled water?


It has been coming out lately that the Primochill Advanced will yellow over time. I have seen numerous reports on this, and Mayhems has said that they have seen it in their lab too. Despite the yellowing, no one has seemed to have report that there is any plasticizer type scaling or leeching and the fluid does not seem to be affected either. Some have hypothesized it being related to UV rays???

Anyway, I recommend going acrylic tube and keep the pastel white


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It has been coming out lately that the Primochill Advanced will yellow over time. I have seen numerous reports on this, and Mayhems has said that they have seen it in their lab too. Despite the yellowing, no one has seemed to have report that there is any plasticizer type scaling or leeching and the fluid does not seem to be affected either. Some have hypothesized it being related to UV rays???
> 
> Anyway, I recommend going acrylic tube and keep the pastel white


Acrylic is not an option, can't afford new fittings right now.


----------



## VSG

I have a question that hopefully someone can answer: Will a dual D5 pump config be good enough for 1 GPM across 2 EK GPU blocks, a Black Ice SR1, a Mo.Ra 3 9.140 and 3 sets of male/female Koolance QD3 quick disconnects? There will likely also be angled fittings/bends. I am mostly worried about the Mo.Ra which has this core:



Flow is split in parallel 4 ways into small ID tubes and then each set goes through 18-19 turns. Should I just go with a mcp35x2 instead? If going DDC, I will also consider the upcoming Swiftech mcp50x which hopefully does release in the next 1-2 weeks as indicated. I know I will likely be ok with less than 1 GPM also given the radiator space, that number is just a reference flow rate from my previous build to compare temps with.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It has been coming out lately that the Primochill Advanced will yellow over time. I have seen numerous reports on this, and Mayhems has said that they have seen it in their lab too. Despite the yellowing, no one has seemed to have report that there is any plasticizer type scaling or leeching and the fluid does not seem to be affected either. Some have hypothesized it being related to UV rays???
> 
> Anyway, I recommend going acrylic tube and keep the pastel white


I think it is attributed to your coolant temperature running over 35C for extended periods of time. Not UV.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I think it is attributed to your coolant temperature running over 35C for extended periods of time. Not UV.


that's right, was the other theory. Probably more likely.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have a question that hopefully someone can answer: Will a dual D5 pump config be good enough for 1 GPM across 2 EK GPU blocks, a Black Ice SR1, a Mo.Ra 3 9.140 and 6 Koolance QD3 quick disconnects? There will likely also be angled fittings/bends. I am mostly worried about the Mo.Ra which has this core:
> 
> Flow is split in parallel 4 ways into small ID tubes and then each set goes through 18-19 turns. Should I just go with a mcp35x2 instead? If going DDC, I will also consider the upcoming Swiftech mcp50x which hopefully does release in the next 1-2 weeks as indicated. I know I will likely be ok with less than 1 GPM also given the radiator space, that number is just a reference flow rate from my previous build to compare temps with.


I'd think that the 6 QDCs would be more restrictive than the radiator core. That's also quite a large amount of turns that will also hinder your flow rate. Either way though I'd be very surprised if either a dual D5 or dual DDC pump assembly could provide close to a gallon a minute with that amount of flow restriction. You might actually consider a triple or quadruple pump system to handle that configuration.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have a question that hopefully someone can answer: Will a dual D5 pump config be good enough for 1 GPM across 2 EK GPU blocks, a Black Ice SR1, a Mo.Ra 3 9.140 and 6 Koolance QD3 quick disconnects? There will likely also be angled fittings/bends. I am mostly worried about the Mo.Ra which has this core:
> 
> Flow is split in parallel 4 ways into small ID tubes and then each set goes through 18-19 turns. Should I just go with a mcp35x2 instead? If going DDC, I will also consider the upcoming Swiftech mcp50x which hopefully does release in the next 1-2 weeks as indicated. I know I will likely be ok with less than 1 GPM also given the radiator space, that number is just a reference flow rate from my previous build to compare temps with.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd think that the 6 QDCs would be more restrictive than the radiator core. That's also quite a large amount of turns that will also hinder your flow rate. Either way though I'd be very surprised if either a dual D5 or dual DDC pump assembly could provide close to a gallon a minute with that amount of flow restriction. *You might actually consider a triple or quadruple pump system* to handle that configuration.
Click to expand...

Pumps dont last long it that situation,the last pumps fail way before MTBF,there was a thread about it on XS with repeatable results.

2 pumps would be more than sufficient or a RD30....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd think that the 6 QDCs would be more restrictive than the radiator core. That's also quite a large amount of turns that will also hinder your flow rate. Either way though I'd be very surprised if either a dual D5 or dual DDC pump assembly could provide close to a gallon a minute with that amount of flow restriction. You might actually consider a triple or quadruple pump system to handle that configuration.


I have a typo up there, thanks for bringing it to my attention. That loop has 3 QDCs with 3 male and 3 female couplers total, not 6. To give more perspective, a single mcp35x gave a max of 1 GPM with 4 QDCs, 2 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, 1 set of motherboard blocks (2 separate pieces) and 2 480mm radiators.

With this correction, do you still think I will need more than 2 pumps there? Hey, this could be a great example to show off your mcp50x pumps *wink wink*.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Pumps dont last long it that situation,the last pumps fail way before MTBF*,there was a thread about it on XS with repeatable results.
> 
> 2 pumps would be more than sufficient or a RD30....


I figured as much based on posts from Skupples here, I will take a look at the thread. If 2 will be ok, will 2 of the D5s suffice? I don't know if I can call the flow reduction in the Mo.Ra a restriction or attribute it more to the parallel split.


----------



## MiiX

May a Alphacool XT45 360 with AP's be able to cool 4770K and two way GTX780's? If not, would a XT45 120 be enough to add to cool it all down?

I'm --->this<---- close to buying a XT45 and start modding... Better get them paper towels ready!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have a typo up there, thanks for bringing it to my attention. That loop has 3 QDCs with 3 male and 3 female couplers total, not 6. To give more perspective, a single mcp35x gave a max of 1 GPM with 4 QDCs, 2 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, 1 set of motherboard blocks (2 separate pieces) and 2 480mm radiators.
> 
> With this correction, do you still think I will need more than 2 pumps there? Hey, this could be a great example to show off your mcp50x pumps *wink wink*.
> I figured as much based on posts from Skupples here, I will take a look at the thread. If 2 will be ok, will 2 of the D5s suffice? I don't know if I can call the flow reduction in the Mo.Ra a restriction or attribute it more to the parallel split.


Well if you cut the number of QDCs in half then I would think that a dual pump system should work fine. I think I also misunderstood the number of turns in your radiator to be the number of adapters in your loop. Sorry about that. A dual pump system should be fine.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have a question that hopefully someone can answer: Will a dual D5 pump config be good enough for 1 GPM across 2 EK GPU blocks, a Black Ice SR1, a Mo.Ra 3 9.140 and 3 sets of male/female Koolance QD3 quick disconnects? There will likely also be angled fittings/bends. I am mostly worried about the Mo.Ra which has this core:
> 
> 
> 
> Flow is split in parallel 4 ways into small ID tubes and then each set goes through 18-19 turns. Should I just go with a mcp35x2 instead? If going DDC, I will also consider the upcoming Swiftech mcp50x which hopefully does release in the next 1-2 weeks as indicated. I know I will likely be ok with less than 1 GPM also given the radiator space, that number is just a reference flow rate from my previous build to compare temps with.


I was doing some rough math on your description amd equating to my setup. i don't have that rad, but have 5 smaller nes ( 2x 45mm x 240mm, 1 x 45mm x 360mm, 1 x 45mm x 140mm, 1 x 45mm x 120mm,) and running 4x R290X parallel etc. It sound like you might need about the same pump quantity I am running and that's 3 x D5's


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I was doing some rough math on your description amd equating to my setup. i don't have that rad, but have 5 smaller nes ( 2x 45mm x 240mm, 1 x 45mm x 360mm, 1 x 45mm x 140mm, 1 x 45mm x 120mm,) and running 4x R290X parallel etc. It sound like you might need about the same pump quantity I am running and that's 3 x D5's


The rads you have, despite them mostly being 1x rads, are not a whole lot more restrictive than tubing since they just have a U-turn each. But that 4-way parallel split sounds bad lol. How are you running 3x D5s? Single units linked up by tubing/fittings? What kinds of a flow rate are you seeing if you happen to know?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd think that the 6 QDCs would be more restrictive than the radiator core. That's also quite a large amount of turns that will also hinder your flow rate. Either way though I'd be very surprised if either a dual D5 or dual DDC pump assembly could provide close to a gallon a minute with that amount of flow restriction. You might actually consider a triple or quadruple pump system to handle that configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a typo up there, thanks for bringing it to my attention. That loop has 3 QDCs with 3 male and 3 female couplers total, not 6. To give more perspective, a single mcp35x gave a max of 1 GPM with 4 QDCs, 2 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, 1 set of motherboard blocks (2 separate pieces) and 2 480mm radiators.
> 
> With this correction, do you still think I will need more than 2 pumps there? Hey, this could be a great example to show off your mcp50x pumps *wink wink*.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Pumps dont last long it that situation,the last pumps fail way before MTBF*,there was a thread about it on XS with repeatable results.
> 
> 2 pumps would be more than sufficient or a RD30....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I figured as much based on posts from Skupples here, I will take a look at the thread. If 2 will be ok, will 2 of the D5s suffice? I don't know if I can call the flow reduction in the Mo.Ra a restriction or attribute it more to the parallel split.
Click to expand...

There are many changes of flow direction in a MO-RA,it soon mounts up.

Personally,I would run 2 24v D5 strongs and be done with it. The Iwaki is an animal of a pump but it lets you know about it...noisy and you have to tap inlet/outlets yourself. On the plus side,it can pop open d plugs!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I was doing some rough math on your description amd equating to my setup. i don't have that rad, but have 5 smaller nes ( 2x 45mm x 240mm, 1 x 45mm x 360mm, 1 x 45mm x 140mm, 1 x 45mm x 120mm,) and running 4x R290X parallel etc. It sound like you might need about the same pump quantity I am running and that's 3 x D5's
> 
> 
> 
> The rads you have, despite them mostly being 1x rads, are not a whole lot more restrictive than tubing since they just have a U-turn each. But that 4-way parallel split sounds bad lol. How are you running 3x D5s? Single units linked up by tubing/fittings? What kinds of a flow rate are you seeing if you happen to know?
Click to expand...

I am running three separate pumps. mostly for the 4 way parallel GPU cooling. I get about 8c-10c better results running parallel,( with quadfire) but yeah, it takes a lot of flow t pull off.

I did get a measurement on flow , after I escort my son to SA for his treat for cleaning up his disaster of a room I will find it in one of my log folders. I have mainly gone off of temps and enough flow to make sure no air pockets develop in the GPU Blocks.

I could be wrong but isn't the Black ice a fairly restrictive rad?


----------



## Kimir

QDC are that restrictive? I've a bunch of them, d'oh!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> QDC are that restrictive? I've a bunch of them, d'oh!


It depends on the QDC, but they can be fairly restrictive. There was one brand in particular that made a very restrictive QDC. I can't recall which one though at the moment.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are many changes of flow direction in a MO-RA,it soon mounts up.
> 
> Personally,I would run 2 24v D5 strongs and be done with it. The Iwaki is an animal of a pump but it lets you know about it...noisy and you have to tap inlet/outlets yourself. On the plus side,it can pop open d plugs!


Seems the only vendor in the US is Koolance with the PMP 450 and they have made it mandatory to get their pump/fan controller if I want to run them at 24v









They previously were offering a voltage step-up mini transformer unit for way cheaper.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It depends on the QDC, but they can be fairly restrictive. There was one brand in particular that made a very restrictive QDC. I can't recall which one though at the moment.


Ya, I have 3 different types of QDCs and it definitely depends on the size and locking mechanism.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I think it is attributed to your coolant temperature running over 35C for extended periods of time. Not UV.


That would explain it, with ambients of over 29-30ºC in the last couple of weeks in my room (up to 40ºC outside), my idle coolant temperature can easily be around 33-35ºC, load can be close to 50ºC easily.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It depends on the QDC, but they can be fairly restrictive. There was one brand in particular that made a very restrictive QDC. I can't recall which one though at the moment.


I admit, I never even looked at review on them. It's so useful I cannot not use them. The one I have are the Koolance QD3.
Found that review just now. Not that bad.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> I'm not getting rid of my acrylic tubing, I'm just getting rid of the block that Is used to connect the two video cards together so I can replace it with acrylic tubing, hopefully give it a more... Subtle look
> 
> I'm contemplating whether I should go serial or parallel


Mine is in parallel using regular acrylic fittings and acrylic tubing.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Me likey.









@luciddreamer124 Awesome cable management!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## tjohn

when do I need to top of the water in my xspc d5 pump res combo? it's been running for 4 months now and i'm noticing the level dropping a bit, maybe a quarter inch or less. should I keep it filled to the top?


----------



## MrBlunt

filling is up to you.. as long as its not creating bubbles.. and make sure you're not losing coolant... Most likely just getting air out.. but if your res keeps going down.... check


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Mine is in parallel using regular acrylic fittings and acrylic tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me likey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @luciddreamer124 Awesome cable management!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i like the color green you got! very similiar to mine


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Coolant/water will evaporate through the tubing, albeit slowly, so if you notice your res drop a half inch or so over the course of 6 months you shouldn't really be concerned.. The volume of coolant you have in your res does not matter one bit, so long as there is enough to keep the loop and the pump filled with water. I usually fill my res once every few months, it drops really slowly so I'm not concerned about it.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I admit, I never even looked at review on them. It's so useful I cannot not use them. The one I have are the Koolance QD3.
> Found that review just now. Not that bad.


Quick disconnects offer the convenience at the tradeoff flow, the QD3 ofer a very nice balance when compared to others. I've used them in the past without noticeable impacts to cooling performance.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd think that the 6 QDCs would be more restrictive than the radiator core. That's also quite a large amount of turns that will also hinder your flow rate. Either way though I'd be very surprised if either a dual D5 or dual DDC pump assembly could provide close to a gallon a minute with that amount of flow restriction. You might actually consider a triple or quadruple pump system to handle that configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a typo up there, thanks for bringing it to my attention. That loop has 3 QDCs with 3 male and 3 female couplers total, not 6. To give more perspective, a single mcp35x gave a max of 1 GPM with 4 QDCs, 2 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, 1 set of motherboard blocks (2 separate pieces) and 2 480mm radiators.
> 
> With this correction, do you still think I will need more than 2 pumps there? Hey, this could be a great example to show off your mcp50x pumps *wink wink*.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Pumps dont last long it that situation,the last pumps fail way before MTBF*,there was a thread about it on XS with repeatable results.
> 
> 2 pumps would be more than sufficient or a RD30....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I figured as much based on posts from Skupples here, I will take a look at the thread. *If 2 will be ok, will 2 of the D5s suffice?* I don't know if I can call the flow reduction in the Mo.Ra a restriction or attribute it more to the parallel split.
Click to expand...

I have 3 of the D5 Varios in my external cooling module with the Mora Pro, 18 X 140, (pumps at 5) and I get 1.3 GPM, (Koolance flow meter) thru the QD4's and Tri-fire Matrix 7970's.

There's no shortage of 90's either.

A dual D5 should be fine for a 1GPM target flow rate
.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

How do you like those QD4s? I got about 5-6 sets of the QD3s but will need more.


----------



## wermad

I'm running more rad, more gpu blocks, bunch of mb blocks, and the sole 35x is still chugging along







.

Once I get the Ascendacy working with my rig, I wanna know what my flow rate







.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm running more rad, more gpu blocks, bunch of mb blocks, and the sole 35x is still chugging along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Once I get the Ascendacy working with my rig, I wanna know what my flow rate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Wer,

are you running serial or parallel on those 7970's?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm running more rad, more gpu blocks, bunch of mb blocks, anld the sole 35x is still chugging along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Once I get the Ascendacy working with my rig, I wanna know what my flow rate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Typical U-flow rads aren't any more restrictive than tubing and you have no QDCs in there. You should be fine with that single mcp35x, guessing over 1 GPM.


----------



## BabylonDown

Would an MCP355 with EK XTOP suffice flow wise for a CPU, 2 GPU's and 2 rads?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Wer,
> are you running serial or parallel on those 7970's?


The EK csq quad bridge is actually semi-parallel. It enters the two bottom cards simultaneously and then enters sequentially the to upper cards simultaneously. From what TSM160 explained, serial under extreme oc'ing conditions, does has better performance vs parallel. The obvious compromise is a semi parallel setup. I think ek mentioned something about better performance with this vs a quad parallel or series.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Typical U-flow rads aren't any more restrictive than tubing and you have no QDCs in there. You should be fine with that single mcp35x, guessing over 1 GPM.


What flow pattern does the mora have? I've been pushing this little 35x for over a year in different builds. Not worried about flow but I'm curious what it is considering the complexity and amount of components the pump has to push through. Right now, we're having issues with the software on the Ascendacy and once that gets fixed, I'll get a flow sensor to find out what I have going on







. Will also give me a chance to compare the 35X are various rpm's using pwm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Would an MCP355 with EK XTOP suffice flow wise for a CPU, 2 GPU's and 2 rads?


355 (ddc 3.2) is strong enough for that loop. I would recommend the EK heatsink kit (or the BP one) to match your top


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What flow pattern does the mora have? I've been pushing this little 35x for over a year in different builds. Not worried about flow but I'm curious what it is considering the complexity and amount of components the pump has to push through. Right now, we're having issues with the software on the Ascendacy and once that gets fixed, I'll get a flow sensor to find out what I have going on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will also give me a chance to compare the 35X are various rpm's using pwm.


I posted this a couple of hours ago but here it is again :



Split 4 ways in parallel and then ~19 turns within the rad. The circular tubes are actually not any better than the channels in typical rads with good fin design for increased surface area. If I didn't get this for free, I would have likely gone with triple 480 or 560mm rads up top.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Wer,
> are you running serial or parallel on those 7970's?
> 
> 
> 
> The EK csq quad bridge is actually semi-parallel. It enters the two bottom cards simultaneously and then enters sequentially the to upper cards simultaneously. From what TSM160 explained, serial under extreme oc'ing conditions, does has better performance vs parallel. The obvious compromise is a semi parallel setup. I think ek mentioned something about better performance with this vs a quad parallel or series.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Typical U-flow rads aren't any more restrictive than tubing and you have no QDCs in there. You should be fine with that single mcp35x, guessing over 1 GPM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What flow pattern does the mora have? I've been pushing this little 35x for over a year in different builds. Not worried about flow but I'm curious what it is considering the complexity and amount of components the pump has to push through. Right now, we're having issues with the software on the Ascendacy and once that gets fixed, I'll get a flow sensor to find out what I have going on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will also give me a chance to compare the 35X are various rpm's using pwm.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Would an MCP355 with EK XTOP suffice flow wise for a CPU, 2 GPU's and 2 rads?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 355 (ddc 3.2) is strong enough for that loop. I would recommend the EK heatsink kit (or the BP one) to match your top
Click to expand...

Im using the EK quad terminal parallel, which is actually semi parallel....maybe won't be 'semi' when im done with it


----------



## SeeThruHead

I'm running the mora3, cpu, gpu ram and mb block, 2 qdc. I get more than enough flow with 2 mxp35x on lowest settings.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> ^Looks amazing, I wish I was brave enough to go acrylic soon, maybe during the summer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need an advice, here's current state of my rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing, even though it's Advanced LRT, it's getting a bit yellowish (Haven't changed it in 7 months). I just ordered white tubing instead, now the question is, should I keep the Pastel White (To see it on reservoir and waterblocks), or go back to distilled water?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has been coming out lately that the Primochill Advanced will yellow over time. I have seen numerous reports on this, and Mayhems has said that they have seen it in their lab too. Despite the yellowing, no one has seemed to have report that there is any plasticizer type scaling or leeching and the fluid does not seem to be affected either. Some have hypothesized it being related to UV rays???
> 
> Anyway, I recommend going acrylic tube and keep the pastel white
Click to expand...

My PA LRT tube also yellowing too but it's not noticable with pastel blue berry or distilled + blood red dye I'm using.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My PA LRT tube also yellowing too but it's not noticable with pastel blue berry or distilled + blood red dye I'm using.


This is why I switched to acrylic, mine was yellowing with distilled.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My PA LRT tube also yellowing too but it's not noticable with pastel blue berry or distilled + blood red dye I'm using.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why I switched to acrylic, mine was yellowing with distilled.
Click to expand...

I prefer copper tube if I'm moving to rigid tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I posted this a couple of hours ago but here it is again :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Split 4 ways in parallel and then ~19 turns within the rad. The circular tubes are actually not any better than the channels in typical rads with good fin design for increased surface area. If I didn't get this for free, I would have likely gone with triple 480 or 560mm rads up top.


Think my Note2 didn't pick up the pic







(stupid Dolphin). The channels seem more like tube (or acrylic/copper) and its restriction. Why not sell it and pick up some new rads?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I'm running the mora3, cpu, gpu ram and mb block, 2 qdc. I get more than enough flow with 2 mxp35x on lowest settings.


Is that ~30% power? Curious as I'm pending to play around with my 35X and see how it does at different rpm's. I want to get a flow meter just to get some readings. I'm currently and have been running the pump at 100% power for over a year. i just never bothered to mess with pwm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Im using the EK quad terminal parallel, which is actually semi parallel....maybe won't be 'semi' when im done with it


Yeah, i asked why the had switched to semi and if I recall, Derick said it was due to better performance. I think the machining had some say in this as the CSQ bridge system required the awkward links (like the old "classic" fc bridge system). The clean bridge has the same design as the HK bridges and has the extra ports like the old classic bridges. If you're careful not to damage the port threads, you can probably bore out the closed path to make it full parallel. Still, with that much expensive hardware, I would just stick with the stock semi-parallel.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you like those QD4s? I got about 5-6 sets of the QD3s but will need more.


The 4's are pretty large . . .

I wouldn't want to try fitting them inside the case, at least in this Switch 810.

Since I had planned to have the QDC's externally on the connection tubing, I opted for the largest least restrictive ones when I ordered them.

Darlene


----------



## slax0r

Hi,

I feel almost ashamed of putting my rig up here with your masterpieces. Some of you guys/gals are nuts, what you've build is just...mind blowing!

But anyway, here goes, keep in mind, this is my first ever modded case, I have for the first time, punched a hole in a case and everthing.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uurbsJU8kDI/U5uGIFTdwVI/AAAAAAAAG0Y/l6yg7OD0xQI/w1554-h874-no-Ut/20140613_163256.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-81R7VsxChrY/U5uBWkBmpZI/AAAAAAAAG3E/NZO9Y8VqiRk/w492-h874-no/20140613_163122.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ea7UGrDSNGY/U5uFWA1LcwI/AAAAAAAAG3U/xj7qCB9gPnc/w492-h874-no/20140613_163230.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-udin5E_9IUU/U5uHnA18c5I/AAAAAAAAG28/Fznhk1pjGfw/w492-h874-no/20140613_163337.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HN_mLqkKmYk/U5uDEpecziI/AAAAAAAAG3c/G2Cl9o6oQ50/w492-h874-no/20140613_163147.jpg

This is, however not final, atm I just can't afford to be without a computer, but I have further plans.

Dunno why the UV lights are shinning so pink on the images, in reality they are more purplish-blue, granted I need some resistor up there to make it glow a little bit less.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Think my Note2 didn't pick up the pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (stupid Dolphin). The channels seem more like tube (or acrylic/copper) and its restriction. Why not sell it and pick up some new rads?


The market for a Mo.Ra is really small, I was checking out the Classifieds on multiple forums and everyone ended up going to ebay which I will never do for a big, heavy rad like this. But despite the flow restrictions, this thing is very effective at heat transfer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 4's are pretty large . . .
> 
> I wouldn't want to try fitting them inside the case, at least in this Switch 810.
> 
> Since I had planned to have the QDC's externally on the connection tubing, I opted for the largest least restrictive ones when I ordered them.
> 
> Darlene


I think I'll pick up a couple of them to try out. Space won't be an issue








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I'm running the mora3, cpu, gpu ram and mb block, 2 qdc. I get more than enough flow with 2 mxp35x on lowest settings.


That's great info. I don't suppose you could tell me what "more than enough flow" means to you in terms of flow rate?


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Think my Note2 didn't pick up the pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (stupid Dolphin). The channels seem more like tube (or acrylic/copper) and its restriction. Why not sell it and pick up some new rads?
> Is that ~30% power? Curious as I'm pending to play around with my 35X and see how it does at different rpm's. I want to get a flow meter just to get some readings. I'm currently and have been running the pump at 100% power for over a year. i just never bothered to mess with pwm.
> Yeah, i asked why the had switched to semi and if I recall, Derick said it was due to better performance. I think the machining had some say in this as the CSQ bridge system required the awkward links (like the old "classic" fc bridge system). The clean bridge has the same design as the HK bridges and has the extra ports like the old classic bridges. If you're careful not to damage the port threads, you can probably bore out the closed path to make it full parallel. Still, with that much expensive hardware, I would just stick with the stock semi-parallel.


They are set to 30% in aquaero software. I didn't notice any meaningful change in temps running them any faster.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slax0r*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I feel almost ashamed of putting my rig up here with your masterpieces. Some of you guys/gals are nuts, what you've build is just...mind blowing!
> 
> This is, however not final, atm I just can't afford to be without a computer, but I have further plans.
> 
> Dunno why the UV lights are shinning so pink on the images, in reality they are more purplish-blue, granted I need some resistor up there to make it glow a little bit less.


Welcome to the thread and some friendly advice: upload all those pics to imgur.com and embed them in your post with the BBCode link provided there on the right side of page. No one is going to click links.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> filling is up to you.. as long as its not creating bubbles.. and make sure you're not losing coolant... Most likely just getting air out.. but if your res keeps going down.... check


Thanks, only time I see bubbles in the res window is at start up, then they go away in about 15 seconds or so.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Coolant/water will evaporate through the tubing, albeit slowly, so if you notice your res drop a half inch or so over the course of 6 months you shouldn't really be concerned.. The volume of coolant you have in your res does not matter one bit, so long as there is enough to keep the loop and the pump filled with water. I usually fill my res once every few months, it drops really slowly so I'm not concerned about it.


thanks for the info. the one thing i was concerned about is that area (very small area) that is water free in the res window growing some nasties. algae or what have you. I thought if I keep it filled with distilled water there is less of a chance of this happening. Is this true?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> They are set to 30% in aquaero software. I didn't notice any meaningful change in temps running them any faster.


Thanks









I'm waiting on a controller fix to get mine up and running and finally get pwm going. IT-Diva has shared some info on Koolance meters, so I'm thinking of picking one up.


----------



## fast_fate

Doing some D5 pump flow testing now with one of the Koolance flow meters








Virtually zero restriction baseline tests done, now the fun stuff


----------



## wermad

Sweet! That's the one i was looking at since I really don't need a drive bay display setup. I'll attache it to the inlet of the res to see how flow is affected after running through my whole loop. Been running a single pump but there's a lot of recommendations of running two or more pumps for large and complex loops (disregarding the redundancy aspect).


----------



## Deltacom99

You can add me too









specs:

EKWB Supremacy Nickel Plexi
EKWB DCP 4.0
Watercool Heatkiller SWX
XSPC Single Bay Res
Alphacool Nexxxos 360mm UT60



I gonna do a bigger remake on it.
Here is the BuildLog









http://www.overclock.net/t/1496521/buildlog-corsair-800d-custom-watercooling-crossfire-fx8350-overclock


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Normally I dont share my adventures but this PM left me stumped for words......so Im sharing like a herpes at an orgy.


----------



## VSG

Ugh.. He's the same guy I was helping out earlier today.


----------



## stickg1

I'm in the same contest, only I was going to make it easier for you, just _send_ me the rig and I will take care of all the pictures and boring stuff.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ugh.. He's the same guy I was helping out earlier today.


I considering doing it so I can rob him of his moment come contest day.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm in the same contest, only I was going to make it easier for you, just _send_ me the rig and I will take care of all the pictures and boring stuff.


Yes,you plan is acceptable to me,please leave your wife/daughter/mother here while I await its return.

Dont worry,although Magoo eats raw meat,he wont hurt them....

Disclaimer: Magoo will hurt them almost on sight,dont not machine wash,drip dry only,you will never see the bodies...he eats them,tumble dry cool,no bleach.


----------



## stickg1

lol

In other news, I just got a call back from a client that was talking about redoing his deck and laundry room but I hadn't heard back from him in some months. He wants to get started immediately! So I'm off to get a permit and I will be back in action. Rough time of the year to be doing a deck as it gets 100F+ and very humid here, but it's work and I could probably stand to sweat off a few pounds anyway.

I might have the dinero for my water loop sooner than planned.


----------



## MrBlunt

Anyone else get their rig on EKWB face book page?


----------



## fnyk

hey i whut like your guys helt to clear something for me about the asus z97-ws motherboard that im planing to use at a client's pc

i wanna know if i can run a intel E3-1240v3 in it with 3 titan black and a ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Wireless Adapter and just wanna know if i can do that with out its make some funny stuff

like we have at work when we put a wireless card in the pci-e x16 it gives black screan but when we take it out ther we get pic ( in the low/middle end motherboard

and i wanna know if this realy high end motherboard will do the same ???


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> Anyone else get their rig on EKWB face book page?


Yes, why?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> hey i whut like your guys helt to clear something for me about the asus z97-ws motherboard that im planing to use at a client's pc
> 
> i wanna know if i can run a intel E3-1240v3 in it with 3 titan black and a ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Wireless Adapter and just wanna know if i can do that with out its make some funny stuff
> 
> like we have at work when we put a wireless card in the pci-e x16 it gives black screan but when we take it out ther we get pic ( in the low/middle end motherboard
> 
> and i wanna know if this realy high end motherboard will do the same ???


Not sure this is the best place for your question.Perhaps you should try an specific MB thread. In any case tri sli + another pci-e deivce will all share the same number of lanes which are limited in a z97 platform, more limited that a x79...


----------



## fnyk

that i know ^^

we was even trying on a asus ROG maximus VI Formula

and it was black screan

but thanks for your respons ^^

i dont get a lot of them here T-T

and it makes me really happy when someone response on them ^^


----------



## MrBlunt

because i had mine put on the page.. nobody asked me, and it's not even finished yet
i mean im greatful that they like it htat much.. but asking me would have been nice?


----------



## MrBlunt

not having the sleeved wires or even the UV lighting in, make this build like 35% done... its like primering a ferrari and not painting it.. then trying to sell it or take it to a show


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> because i had mine put on the page.. nobody asked me, and it's not even finished yet
> i mean im greatful that they like it htat much.. but asking me would have been nice?


lol must have been Derick, a lot of builds in varying stages of progress get on there. I don't mind personally but I can see where you are coming from.


----------



## wermad

Mine was put on there and I didn't know until someone pointed it out to me a few weeks later







. Plenty of time for praiser and haters to post in da Facebooks (







).

I did have my goldfish block/yellow-pastel on there too a year ago







.

Yup, Derick is known to plaster our rigs shameless and grotesquely showing off pc pr0n on the EK fb page


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> that i know ^^
> 
> we was even trying on a asus ROG maximus VI Formula
> 
> and it was black screan
> 
> but thanks for your respons ^^
> 
> i dont get a lot of them here T-T
> 
> and it makes me really happy when someone response on them ^^


Not a problem mate. What I meant is that with 4 pci-e devices and a z97 chipset you might as well be saturating the lanes and creating conflicts between the third GPU and the wireless card. That might explain the black screen...

good luck


----------



## fnyk

thanks ^^ and im going to post pic of it in here becos its going to have custom watercooling ^^ with hard tubing ^^


----------



## MrBlunt

i







ek so its cool.. lol


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine was put on there and I didn't know until someone pointed it out to me a few weeks later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Plenty of time for praiser and haters to post in da Facebooks (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I did have my goldfish block/yellow-pastel on there too a year ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Yup, Derick is known to plaster our rigs shameless and grotesquely showing off pc pr0n on the EK fb page


It happened to me too...

Now, if I can get @derickwm to post this picture of my monoblock & ram blocks instead of the one EK currently has on their page, I can get my dignity back.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2511.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

I have no shame. You post it here, and it's of decent quality, it'll probably get on our FB page. If you post multiple photos I generally try to include a link back here or to your log


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have no shame


----------



## derickwm

/storyofmylife


----------



## VSG

I will have some pictures for you to steal..err.. use soon.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I have no shame. You post it here, and it's of decent quality, it'll probably get on our FB page. If you post multiple photos I generally try to include a link back here or to your log


lol.. sounds good... how about a repost when i finish it?







:thumb:


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> /storyofmylife


Meanwhile, in Alask....


----------



## royce5950

*Quick question regarding custom waterblock/general waterblock dimensions...*

I was curious what the typical thickness is for the copper base of an ek waterblock. I cant get a good measurement of any of mine that are currently running. I am debating .250" and .187" thickness and I just cant figure out which one to get. I'm ordering the copper online and it would be easier if I could see the copper plates in person but since its online I'd like some exact measurements of someones block on here if someone could help me out. Since I'll be working with the copper plate I know some areas will be closer to the card than others after I'm finished. Therefore I'm looking for the measurement of the (I dont know if I'm saying this right lol) thickest part of the copper base. If you understand what I mean. I know length and width of the pieces I need. Just thickness is needed. I appreciate it greatly and I look forward to a reply.


----------



## wermad

Hit up Nateman_Doo at the evga.com forums. He's made a few custom waterblocks. Makes them pretty damn impressive, so he would be great source of info on making custom blocks.


----------



## Jeronbernal

I got the parallel tubes setup instead of the ek bridge, I'm assuming this is correct?


----------



## wermad




----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hit up Nateman_Doo at the evga.com forums. He's made a few custom waterblocks. Makes them pretty damn impressive, so he would be great source of info on making custom blocks.


good look, I'll look into his work.

I appreciate the response my brotha. I went ahead with the .187" copper. I'll post some progress on here and some more detailed progress in my build log once all the supplies are gathered. probably the 25th.

Thanks again.


----------



## Jeronbernal

anyone here have any idea where i could locate some black 10mm ID/12mm OD acrylic tubing? i can only seem to find extruded clear, but cast black or extruded black tubing would be GREAT!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hit up Nateman_Doo at the evga.com forums. He's made a few custom waterblocks. Makes them pretty damn impressive, so he would be great source of info on making custom blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> good look, I'll look into his work.
> 
> I appreciate the response my brotha. I went ahead with the .187" copper. I'll post some progress on here and some more detailed progress in my build log once all the supplies are gathered. probably the 25th.
> 
> Thanks again.
Click to expand...

You won't find Nate much there,go to e22.biz or the e22 fb page.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> anyone here have any idea where i could locate some black 10mm ID/12mm OD acrylic tubing? i can only seem to find extruded clear, but cast black or extruded black tubing would be GREAT!


The only colored rigid tube is imperial sized, 1/2 X 3/8, Primochill & Monsoon.

Your Bitspower fittings pretty well limit you to metric 12 X10mm tube, which as far as I've seen, only comes in clear.

The monsoon "Budget" fittings look a lot like the BP, maybe that's the way to get to black tubing and keep the same look.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bitspower take 12mm tube,not 10.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower take 12mm tube,not 10.


I was thinking in ID, sorry about that . . .

Corrected now.

D.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower take 12mm tube,not 10.
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking in ID, sorry about that . . .
> 
> Corrected now.
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

No worries,I did the same thing on another forum...was helping in 3 threads and got wildly mixed up between them.....


----------



## Maako

made some test fitting of parts, only problems is that i think i dont have enough fittings







(but can you ever have enough?







)


----------



## Ice Reign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maako*
> 
> made some test fitting of parts, only problems is that i think i dont have enough fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (but can you ever have enough?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Love the floor plate design


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnyk*
> 
> hey i whut like your guys helt to clear something for me about the asus z97-ws motherboard that im planing to use at a client's pc
> 
> i wanna know if i can run a intel E3-1240v3 in it with 3 titan black and a ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Wireless Adapter and just wanna know if i can do that with out its make some funny stuff
> 
> like we have at work when we put a wireless card in the pci-e x16 it gives black screan but when we take it out ther we get pic ( in the low/middle end motherboard
> 
> and i wanna know if this realy high end motherboard will do the same ???


Like Gabrielzm pointed out those boards have limitted PCI-e lanes and are not meant for more than 2 GPU SLI configurations specially if you will be using other PCI-e cards. Crossfire is a little more forgiving but still if you populate 3 cards and the slot shares PCI-e lanes you will have this issue. To not have problems with this you need to have a PLX chip in the board which increases the mobo cost.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys, quick question, I know it isn't watercooling related but does anyone know what stand/holder they use in the newegg videos to show off motherboards? I've tried googling and I've got nothing.

Thanks!


----------



## sinnedone

You can use a picture frame holder and I'm pretty sure I've seen something like that at office supply stores.


----------



## ledzepp3

A lot of you guys here should be submitting to the Amateur Class MOTM

I got final pictures of my rig done with all the cables in!

















-Zepp


----------



## MrBlunt

not done with my build yet..


----------



## VSG

lol I will never be "done".


----------



## ledzepp3

None of us are ever done







close your case for a day to take pictures and say it's "done"?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> A lot of you guys here should be submitting to the Amateur Class MOTM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I got final pictures of my rig done with all the cables in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Doesn't that mean there should be a little of mod in the build?
Because I don't think my rig have any "mod", maybe except splitting some cables and sleeving.
Or the MOTM is just the rig of the month?







(I've always look at others beautiful work, but never looked at the entry requirements)


----------



## VSG

My new build just started, so it will be a while. By the looks of it, I may end up in a different section though


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Doesn't that mean there should be a little of mod in the build?
> Because I don't think my rig have any "mod", maybe except splitting some cables and sleeving.
> Or the MOTM is just the rig of the month?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I've always look at others beautiful work, but never looked at the entry requirements)


There's sound deadening everywhere, the chassis divider is modded along with a whole series of surprisingly nice looking cable harnesses







There's a wacky custom SSD mount too on the chassis divider and bent acrylic


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> There's sound deadening everywhere, the chassis divider is modded along with a whole series of surprisingly nice looking cable harnesses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a wacky custom SSD mount too on the chassis divider and bent acrylic


I was only referring to the non-spoiler part of your post I quoted.
I wouldn't question your entry, it would be arrogant of me.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> not done with my build yet..
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I will never be "done".
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> None of us are ever done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> close your case for a day to take pictures and say it's "done"?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

the "pursuit" of performance really is just saying, its non stop







. Its an addiction basically, lets admit it!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> None of us are ever done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> close your case for a day to take pictures and say it's "done"?


It had taken me quite a while, but I finally reached a point where I am "done" with my build. Nothing more will be added or swapped until it gets repurposed as a secondary pc.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Something always gets in the way from mine being or looking "complete"…some new idea or piece of hardware or some extra funds allowing an upgrade. Right now it's cheap R9 290s on ebay after I just bought a second 670 with a block whos temp loop is presently hanging out of my case onto my desk. This is a main reason I have never posted a pic in this thread as yet.


----------



## wermad

I also called it done a few months ago. Well, turns out I had an itch. And you'll know that itch can be deadly to your wallet


----------



## derickwm

My order arrived :drool:

Need to get back to the East Coast so I can play and build!


----------



## stickg1

30 rotary 90's? That's it? You're sick dude!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My order arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to get back to the East Coast so I can play and build!


I wouldn't mind some of them adapters. When are they going up for sale, again?


----------



## derickwm

Lol never. I have to finish 2 build with these. And then I'm doing the impossible... Keeping both builds O.O


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol never. I have to finish 2 build with these. And then I'm doing the impossible... Keeping both builds O.O


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Lol never. I have to finish 2 build with these. And then I'm doing the impossible... Keeping both builds O.O
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Lol this gif sums up my reaction perfectly. Bets on how long derickwm keeps them?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Lol this gif sums up my reaction perfectly. Bets on how long derickwm keeps them?


He might actually keep Aldri since he's put so much work into it... I think he'll start another few year long build









-Zepp


----------



## derickwm

It's just too much of a pain to ship Aldri... The TJ07 is just too classy to ship away :drool:


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> He might actually keep Aldri since he's put so much work into it... I think he'll start another few year long build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's just too much of a pain to ship Aldri... The TJ07 is just too classy to ship away


Year long builds are nice. The project start for mine started back in 2011, although I only really got
to proper building at the start of 2013, so my build log isn't really a top contender for longest logs
out there. I do hope to be somewhat done by end of this year though.


----------



## valvehead

Just got an EVGA 780ti SC yesterday.







Added to my 580 in series:






Even with only one low-FPI 420 rad, the added heat only raised the max water-air delta from 7.5 to 8.0 C. It looks like I don't need any additional rads anytime soon.

I left my D5 running at 19%, and the added restriction of the new GPU block only dropped the flow rate dropped from 107 to 90 L/h. Not much to worry about, and no need to crank up the pump. My system actually performs better at low flow rates.


----------



## wermad

Nice that they lineup







. Beautiful blocks and backplates


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Just got an EVGA 780ti SC yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added to my 580 in series:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with only one low-FPI 420 rad, the added heat only raised the max water-air delta from 7.5 to 8.0 C. It looks like I don't need any additional rads anytime soon.
> 
> I left my D5 running at 19%, and the added restriction of the new GPU block only dropped the flow rate dropped from 107 to 90 L/h. Not much to worry about, and no need to crank up the pump. My system actually performs better at low flow rates.


is that carpet that 780ti is sitting on? lol sorry sexy card but i pray to the nvidia gods for you


----------



## LiquidHaus

haven't checked out this thread for about 13k posts lol

here's a shot I took the other day. she's still running strong.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Just got an EVGA 780ti SC yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added to my 580 in series:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with only one low-FPI 420 rad, the added heat only raised the max water-air delta from 7.5 to 8.0 C. It looks like I don't need any additional rads anytime soon.
> 
> I left my D5 running at 19%, and the added restriction of the new GPU block only dropped the flow rate dropped from 107 to 90 L/h. Not much to worry about, and no need to crank up the pump. My system actually performs better at low flow rates.


I think u need to put ur inlet and outlet at opposite ends? Otherwise, ur liquid will jus flow straight down/up and nt much will go into the blocks?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> I think u need to put ur inlet and outlet at opposite ends? Otherwise, ur liquid will jus flow straight down/up and nt much will go into the blocks?


Whenever you quote pictures from another poster, it is much appreciated if you spoiler all but one of the pictures in the quoted post.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> I think u need to put ur inlet and outlet at opposite ends? Otherwise, ur liquid will jus flow straight down/up and nt much will go into the blocks?


Series Config..

Flow= Inlet GPU 1 > Block > Outlet GPU1 > the same port on GPU 2 > Block > Out..



Or the other way around..


----------



## valvehead

*Please use spoilers!* Nobody wants to scroll through the same pics three times on the same page (especially not mine!).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> I think u need to put ur inlet and outlet at opposite ends? Otherwise, ur liquid will jus flow straight down/up and nt much will go into the blocks?


Nope. I put one of these little plugs about halfway down the left side. It's definitely in serial mode. The water flows into the bottom card on the left side, out on the right side and into the top card, and then out on the left side to the CPU.

EDIT: mus1mus, thanks for the visual explanation.

EDIT again:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice that they lineup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Beautiful blocks and backplates


Sorry I missed your post amongst the quote spam. And thanks.









I wasn't sure if they would line up, so it was nice that it did. I was prepared to leave the 580 out if they didn't. I'm probably going to sell the 580 soon anyway. I just wanted to see how well the existing loop could handle the addition of another GPU. Quite well in fact.

I decided to go with a bridge for several reasons. Looks and ease of serial/parallel switching were important, but it was mostly for rigidity. My 580 was always sagging just a little from the weight of block. I have an EVGA backplate for it, but I would have to Dremel it to make it fit. I don't think the thin aluminum would help much anyway. OTOH, the Heatkiller backplate is a serious chunk of stainless.


----------



## Johnny Utah

His gpus are in a series which means it goes through one gpu first and then the other.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Product Details:
> The GPU-X Dual-Link provides an optimal combination of two cards in SLI or Crossfire setup. It is flow-optimized and gives the graphics card association added stability. *With a few simple steps can the link be changed from parallel to serial operation. The necessary serial closure is optional.* All common configurations for dual graphics setups types are covered by the GPU-X Dual-Link. In addition, the link with four 1/4 inch thread. So that it can be flexibly integrated into the water cycle. The unneeded thread can be closed with the supplied plugs.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1083&products_id=36181


----------



## GringoKillah1




----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*


That is going to provide Terrible performance... lol. nice looking board.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*Scarlet-Tech*
Thx, 1 year i want to paint it, and finally i made it


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> That is going to provide Terrible performance... lol. nice looking board.


Maybe +1-3 degrees? lol. I'm curious. Anyone got any data?

I kinda wanna paint my motherboard white


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Maybe +1-3 degrees? lol. I'm curious. Anyone got any data?
> 
> I kinda wanna paint my motherboard white


I've got no data. I wish I had sprayed just one more layer, but I chickened out because of fear of something overheating.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*Hefner*
nope, temperature now just like been before painting








I paint it not with spray can


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Maybe +1-3 degrees? lol. I'm curious. Anyone got any data?
> 
> I kinda wanna paint my motherboard white


I specifically meant the bits power plugs in the block, lol. I love the dark look of his board. @gringokillah1, your welcome. I love the look a lot.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I've got no data. I wish I had sprayed just one more layer, but I chickened out because of fear of something overheating.


----------



## MrBlunt

i considered getting some UV brush paint, and doing some work on heatsinks and stuff, i've painted models growing up so ican do a pretty nice job on really small stuff. i always loved that circuit board / tron look.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I specifically meant the bits power _Enzotech_ plugs in the block, lol. I love the dark look of his board. @gringokillah1, your welcome. I love the look a lot.


lol, I just couldn't help but correct that.

I must agree though. I really like the look of that board with all the yellow MPower stuff blacked out. Is it Plasti-Dip?


----------



## VSG

Just saw this EK survey and figured I should share in here: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/3JJGJZS

I like that more companies are taking feedback on future products now.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, I just couldn't help but correct that.
> 
> I must agree though. I really like the look of that board with all the yellow MPower stuff blacked out. Is it Plasti-Dip?


Oops... Enzo


----------



## GringoKillah1

*Unicr0nhunter*
Nope mate, it's easier thing - the RABECO marker for Graffiti writers


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

I actually painted all the Yellow Stuff on my MPower to light blue. I just used regular plastic bonding paint.


----------



## Q5Grafx

have you thought about Ceracoat. it is typically used as a durable and heat shielding gun coating but i think its thermal properties might work in this application and it comes in a variety of colors.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm not sure it matters much as long as the paint isn't electrically conductive. Seen quite a few posts here and elsewhere by people who painted heatsinks and even entire mobos with all different sorts of paint and they all seem to swear they don't notice any difference in temps.

I've had the itch to try the same many a time but never yet had the huevos to scratch it.


----------



## Q5Grafx

I run the sabertooth MB and it has the ceracoat on the chipset heatsinks in a tan color. all i know is that every pc i have had has had thermal issues here in phoenix in the summer. this machines going on its second summer with no temp issues on the board. Now i do have thermal issues with the 3x sli so i will have to get blocks and do a custom loop as soon as funds are available. but for animating it doesnt hit the cards too often.


----------



## Q5Grafx

what id really like is the shied that they offer for the intel version of the sabertooth for and amd version. i think that black shield looks so cool.


----------



## fast_fate

Do we have a Koolance rep on site ?

I'm having issues with the INS-FM18D flow meters

Also from the same post...

If I have a PSI gauge on an outlet port of Bitspower Dual D5 pump top....
does this PSI pressure reading actually equate to the pumps output pressure ?? or just a pressure reading within in the loop - maybe the same thing ???


----------



## MrBlunt

just within the loop.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not sure it matters much as long as the paint isn't electrically conductive. Seen quite a few posts here and elsewhere by people who painted heatsinks and even entire mobos with all different sorts of paint and they all seem to swear they don't notice any difference in temps.
> 
> I've had the itch to try the same many a time but never yet had the huevos to scratch it.


It seems like that a few layers of paint simply isn't thick enough to isolate the heat sufficiently to have any kind of effect on temps. I was originally too scared to do it for this reason, but I think I will pull the trigger and just do it at the next maintenance interval. It looks so awesome


----------



## PC Upgrade

These are the specs and some first photos of my new project Red ''Milky Way''

Case: Corsair Graphite 760t white
Psu: Cooler master v850
Mobo: Asus Maximus VI formula
CPU: Intel i7 4770K @ 4.3Ghz
Ram: 16gb Kingston Beast @ 2400Mhz
Gpu: Asus Gtx 690
SSD: OCZ vertex 3 120Gb
Hdd: Seagate 3tb + 2tb

Watercooling parts:
Cpu block: EKWB EK-Supreme LTX Acetal CSQ CPU Block
Vga block: HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 690 "Hole Edition" Ni-Bl
Backplate: EKWB gtx 690
Pump: EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)
1 X Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360 Watercooling Radiator
1 x Rad: EKWB EK-CoolStream RAD XT 120 Watercooling Radiator
Tank: Phobya Balancer 250 Black Reservoir
Tube: Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT
Connectors: EKWB + Alphacool
Fans: 5x Corsair SP 120 performance
Lights: 2x Lamptron FlexLight Pro 30 LED White
Cables: Nanoxia sleeved
Mayhems Pastel Red 1LT Watercooling Fluid

Some pictures


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Upgrade*
> 
> These are the specs and some first photos of my new project Red ''Milky Way''
> 
> Case: Corsair Graphite 760t white
> Psu: Cooler master v850
> Mobo: Asus Maximus VI formula
> CPU: Intel i7 4770K @ 4.3Ghz
> Ram: 16gb Kingston Beast @ 2400Mhz
> Gpu: Asus Gtx 690
> SSD: OCZ vertex 3 120Gb
> Hdd: Seagate 3tb + 2tb
> 
> Watercooling parts:
> Cpu block: EKWB EK-Supreme LTX Acetal CSQ CPU Block
> Vga block: HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 690 "Hole Edition" Ni-Bl
> Backplate: EKWB gtx 690
> Pump: EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)
> 1 X Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360 Watercooling Radiator
> 1 x Rad: EKWB EK-CoolStream RAD XT 120 Watercooling Radiator
> Tank: Phobya Balancer 250 Black Reservoir
> Tube: Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT
> Connectors: EKWB + Alphacool
> Fans: 5x Corsair SP 120 performance
> Lights: 2x Lamptron FlexLight Pro 30 LED White
> Cables: Nanoxia sleeved
> Mayhems Pastel Red 1LT Watercooling Fluid
> 
> Some pictures
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Please oh please spoiler most of your pictures when you post that many. Makes reading on mobile an awful experience.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Please oh please spoiler most of your pictures when you post that many. Makes reading on mobile an awful experience.


I agree with you on using spoilers when you quote someone's post with multiple pictures. But I don't agree to force ppl to quote their original post to accommodate a cell phone







. This is a "gallery" if you look at the thread title







. Just saying


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Please oh please spoiler most of your pictures when you post that many. Makes reading on mobile an awful experience.


I was about to say write that! (not just for cell phones)
Nice rig tho.


----------



## Xithel

Ill throw mine out there. First loop so nothing special but I am proud non the less.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xithel*
> 
> 
> 
> Ill throw mine out there. First loop so nothing special but I am proud non the less.


very nice very nice! i like the UV:thumb:


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xithel*
> 
> 
> 
> Ill throw mine out there. First loop so nothing special but I am proud non the less.


Great first loop! Definitely much cleaner than my first haha


My first! Five months ago lol


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Please oh please spoiler most of your pictures when you post that many. Makes reading on mobile an awful experience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with you on using spoilers when you quote someone's post with multiple pictures. But I don't agree to force ppl to quote their original post to accommodate a cell phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This is a "gallery" if you look at the thread title
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just saying
Click to expand...

I agree. I'm surfing on the phone right now & don't have any problem at all. Original post should not need to use spoiler.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I agree. I'm surfing on the phone right now & don't have any problem at all. Original post should not need to use spoiler.












btw: meant to say "force to use *spoiler*..."







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xithel*
> 
> 
> 
> Ill throw mine out there. First loop so nothing special but I am proud non the less.


Question, how do you guys get these nice night shots??? I'm uber crappy at taking pics and my camera is a basic pns. I take off the flash and it goes out of focus quickly. Leave it on or change the flash setting and I can't capture the glow of my fans and FrozenQ res









Nice build btw


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw: meant to say "force to use *spoiler*..."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question, how do you guys get these nice night shots??? I'm uber crappy at taking pics and my camera is a basic pns. I take off the flash and it goes out of focus quickly. Leave it on or change the flash setting and I can't capture the glow of my fans and FrozenQ res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build btw


http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig

Quick guide -> low ISO + bipod or very steady hands = win. Also some external lighting helps a lot.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

My first rig looks like poop. It works just fine, but it's an aesthetic abomination.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/Rig44.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Looks clean and tidy, great job







. Love those Enermax fans.


----------



## zzorro

here my 1st loop 2012..









nothing special but I am proud & satisfied..


----------



## Shadowline2553

Tomorrow going to pick up my new D5 and res from the post office... Once it was shipped took next to no time to get here. I also have some backplates, that I may end of taking off in a few weeks when I get my blocks and rads, as well as a few other small odds and ends.


----------



## royce5950

Well I recently put in an order for a copper plate and here is the acrylic and acetal pieces I've picked up for the custom waterblocks.





^Here is a few pieces from the side.

Acetal (the black pieces) is ugly not polished. but thats nothing I cant fix 



^3/8" thick acrylic (non extruded, so cast acrylic I believe)



^ Thats what acetal looks like before its all neat and polished











Picked all of this up at my local acrylic shop in their scrap pile. I'm building a full cover gtx 750 ti FTW edition waterblock and a southbridge block for the z87 sabertooth. The acetal isnt put in the scrap pile because its more expensive than acrylic but for a 6 x 4" piece and a 3 x 3" piece of acetal I paid $8 - $9usd total. Their scrap pile is $1.50 per pound. So I walked out with all of those, ranging from 1/4" thick to 3/8" thick. Trial and error ya know? That and I havnt fully decided on acrylic blocks or acetal blocks. We'll see. The build will match the acetal more.

You can follow / subscribe to my build log by following the link in my signature.

Any left over acrylic is going towards whatever other component on the build I can build blocks for. If I decide to go with the acetal then I'll run back to the acrylic shop.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Well I recently put in an order for a copper plate and here is the acrylic and acetal pieces I've picked up for the custom waterblocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^Here is a few pieces from the side.
> Acetal (the black pieces) is ugly not polished. but thats nothing I cant fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^3/8" thick acrylic (non extruded, so cast acrylic I believe)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Thats what acetal looks like before its all neat and polished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked all of this up at my local acrylic shop in their scrap pile. I'm building a full cover gtx 750 ti FTW edition waterblock and a southbridge block for the z87 sabertooth. The acetal isnt put in the scrap pile because its more expensive than acrylic but for a 6 x 4" piece and a 3 x 3" piece of acetal I paid $8 - $9usd total. Their scrap pile is $1.50 per pound. So I walked out with all of those, ranging from 1/4" thick to 3/8" thick. Trial and error ya know? That and I havnt fully decided on acrylic blocks or acetal blocks. We'll see. The build will match the acetal more.
> 
> You can follow / subscribe to my build log by following the link in my signature.
> 
> Any left over acrylic is going towards whatever other component on the build I can build blocks for. If I decide to go with the acetal then I'll run back to the acrylic shop.


Awesome! Subbing sir!
You can also lightly sand one side of the clear acrylic with 150 grit sand paper and spray paint it whatever color you want to match your build. The exposed side will have a nice glassy appearance.


----------



## Ricardo Novo

My 1 water cooling build


----------



## snef




----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> My first rig looks like poop. It works just fine, but it's an aesthetic abomination.


Looks pretty good to me esp for a first; seen far worse. Threads like this can be both a blessing and a curse. They set the bar quite high.


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


White thermal armor is so sexy! i should do that to mine!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Snef's builds always impress.

Really do want to know what's behind the blur on that PSU though.


----------



## snef

soon


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Looks pretty good to me esp for a first; seen far worse. Threads like this can be both a blessing and a curse. They set the bar quite high.


Isn't that the truth... If it wasn't for this website and the creative geniuses that make their amazing builds, I probably won't have gotten into water cooling.

In fact, I already have an idea for my next build, and I'm not even finished with the one I'm doing now.


----------



## wermad

Snef, turning pc hardware, into beautiful art







. Wish I had these mad skills







.


----------



## Krahe

Very nice work Snef, looks brilliant.


----------



## royce5950

Thanks pimphare ill probably stick with either full clear or frosted clear on the acrylic but the shop by my place has thick sheets of colored acrylic pre colored. 24 colors to choose from. 0.081" to 0.387" thick so if I wanted to color them id probably go with one of those options. That way the color would befluent all throughout the block rather than just on the surface. Ek came out with some white water blocks I believe for some limited edition runs and they looked pretty sweet. Look them up if you haven't seen them I don't believe they're available anymore but that would give you a good idea of what I'm talking about with the color going all the way through the block rather than just on the surface. if that's what you meantlol... I've considered doing colored water blocks with the different colors that they have to choose from but I'd probably have to save it for a different build because considering I'm using the Sabertooth motherboard the color theme of the build is pretty generic like black army green and if anything clear you know? but thanks for the subscription and I'll try and update everyone once I source the rest of the supplies which hopefully will be long. but on another note I'll definitely be uploading some progress made on the case modifications hopefully later tonight or tomorrow.


----------



## Blackops_2

So before i get my main rig going, i figured i'd put my backup rig on water, since it would be cheaper to do. Caught a good deal on a new 7970 CSQ block & backplate, and had originally planned to expand my Glacer 240L using that rig but i'm unsure that i still want to do that just because priming that thing is going to be somewhat difficult. Using the res i want to use there will be no way that it will sit above the pump/block. So i figured what the heck i'll just pick up a CSQ CPU block, i already got pumps and radiators ready to go. So now comes the question.

I had planned on a 450D didn't want my backup rig to be so bulky like my 800D and thermaltake armor are. That said the Arc XL is 10$ more than the 450D and is of higher build quality from what i can tell and has ample room to do what i want. Which i was going to use the 240xt i just got in with the Swiftech MCR 320 and put the 8320 & 7970 on those.

Thoughts between those two cases? I don't want it to be too large, i could handle the XL if it's about the size of my thermaltake armor extreme, if it's near 800D size i'll probably stick with the 450D.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So before i get my main rig going, i figured i'd put my backup rig on water, since it would be cheaper to do. Caught a good deal on a new 7970 CSQ block & backplate, and had originally planned to expand my Glacer 240L using that rig but i'm unsure that i still want to do that just because priming that thing is going to be somewhat difficult. Using the res i want to use there will be no way that it will sit above the pump/block. So i figured what the heck i'll just pick up a CSQ CPU block, i already got pumps and radiators ready to go. So now comes the question.
> 
> I had planned on a 450D didn't want my backup rig to be so bulky like my 800D and thermaltake armor are. That said the Arc XL is 10$ more than the 450D and is of higher build quality from what i can tell and has ample room to do what i want. Which i was going to use the 240xt i just got in with the Swiftech MCR 320 and put the 8320 & 7970 on those.
> 
> Thoughts between those two cases? I don't want it to be too large, i could handle the XL if it's about the size of my thermaltake armor extreme, if it's near 800D size i'll probably stick with the 450D.


Yeah i had to prime my glacer pump, and it was hell. I had to blow through a tube to get it to the pump lol. My next upgrade will be to get a CPU block and an actual D5 pump.


----------



## kingchris

loop all finished


----------



## wermad

A build after my heart


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A build after my heart


Dat green


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So before i get my main rig going, i figured i'd put my backup rig on water, since it would be cheaper to do. Caught a good deal on a new 7970 CSQ block & backplate, and had originally planned to expand my Glacer 240L using that rig but i'm unsure that i still want to do that just because priming that thing is going to be somewhat difficult. Using the res i want to use there will be no way that it will sit above the pump/block. So i figured what the heck i'll just pick up a CSQ CPU block, i already got pumps and radiators ready to go. So now comes the question.
> 
> I had planned on a 450D didn't want my backup rig to be so bulky like my 800D and thermaltake armor are. That said the Arc XL is 10$ more than the 450D and is of higher build quality from what i can tell and has ample room to do what i want. Which i was going to use the 240xt i just got in with the Swiftech MCR 320 and put the 8320 & 7970 on those.
> 
> Thoughts between those two cases? I don't want it to be too large, i could handle the XL if it's about the size of my thermaltake armor extreme, if it's near 800D size i'll probably stick with the 450D.


Arc XL dimensions: 9.13" x 22.52" x 21.73" (WxHxD)
450D dimensions: 8.30" x 19.60" x 19.50" (WxHxD)

The Arc XL is closer in size to the 650D but just a tad bigger. I was actually looking at the 450D today. It'd be a perfect little case to build a water cooled setup IMO. It has two ssd brackets in the back which is a huge plus. I'd take the hard drive cages out of it to accommodate a 240mm rad at the front, put a slim 240mm rad at the top and use a dual bay res.

Depends on what you prefer really.


----------



## Blackops_2

I like the 450D I just wonder if a 150ml res will fit between the motherboard and the drive bays? If it can then i'll likely stick with it, though watching a review the build quality has been sacrificed in some places. The XL i like a lot as well and it's only 10$ more and wont be so cramped.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

If you are comparing a 450D and an Arc XL for a watercooled rig, you might also want to take a look at the Enthoo Pro. It's similar to those in size/appearance, I believe it costs a bit less, and generally has better watercooling-friendly features.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P/dp/B00K6S1B3Q/


Spoiler: Video Review











And if you're not in a hurry to buy, Phanteks also has two more cases coming out, the Mini XL and the EVOLV, that also are worth a look. Both are are really interesting, to say the least. I've no idea when they will show up or what the price point for either will be though. Previous times Phanteks teased with a case it was several months before they showed up for sale anywhere.


Spoiler: More Vids


----------



## B NEGATIVE

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Snef, turning pc hardware, into beautiful art
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Wish I had these mad skills
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Its not hard,Snef plastidips everything Wermad and the PSU stickers are made with sticker sheets and an inkjet printer. Get in there,its easy with Plastidip!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> false
> Its not hard,Snef plastidips everything Wermad and the PSU stickers are made with sticker sheets and an inkjet printer. Get in there,its easy with Plastidip!


Actually, I believe snef's using Rustoleum. Probably not as forgiving as PlastiDip, but your point still stands.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Sand of God:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> they are matt Black, any Chrome color are little bit harder to paint correctly
> 
> sand with a 320 grid sand paper (gently)
> 
> put 2 layer of *Rust-Oleum white primer and 2 layer of Rust-Oleum Matt White*


Icy Blue Angel:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks to everyone
> 
> *I used rust-oleum white primer and mat white* spray can
> 
> They ave a lot of color, im sure you will find what you need


Icy Blue Angel II:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks Guys
> 
> a very little update this week end
> 
> Power Supply, this time I tried to paint it with a Gloss finish but still in white
> net the perfect finish as Hannoverfist but its still very good
> 
> pics quality not so good, took with my Iphone
> [...]


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> false
> Its not hard,Snef plastidips everything Wermad and the PSU stickers are made with sticker sheets and an inkjet printer. Get in there,its easy with Plastidip!
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, I believe snef's using Rustoleum. Probably not as forgiving as PlastiDip, but your point still stands.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of God:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> they are matt Black, any Chrome color are little bit harder to paint correctly
> 
> sand with a 320 grid sand paper (gently)
> 
> put 2 layer of *Rust-Oleum white primer and 2 layer of Rust-Oleum Matt White*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Icy Blue Angel:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks to everyone
> 
> *I used rust-oleum white primer and mat white* spray can
> 
> They ave a lot of color, im sure you will find what you need
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Icy Blue Angel II:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks Guys
> 
> a very little update this week end
> 
> Power Supply, this time I tried to paint it with a Gloss finish but still in white
> net the perfect finish as Hannoverfist but its still very good
> 
> pics quality not so good, took with my Iphone
> [...]
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Its not hard to paint small things with rattle cans,it really isnt. Plastidip is ridiculously easy to use,using primer and paint...less so,but gives a better effect.

I would like to see Snef stretch himself a little,he has done some great stuff but produces a lot of the same thing over and over.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not hard to paint small things with rattle cans,it really isnt. Plastidip is ridiculously easy to use,using primer and paint...less so,but gives a better effect.
> 
> I would like to see Snef stretch himself a little,he has done some great stuff but produces a lot of the same thing over and over.


B-Negative
I think its the first time I see a commentary from you on my work
and I don't know how to take this, a constructive criticism or simply you don't like my work and its your right

Hope its a constructive criticism

like I said a lot of time, i'm more a builder than modder, I live in a small apartment on second floor, don't have tools, space or garage to do a real mod, if you look at some of my previous build, you will see I painted most of my stuff in my dining room
only have screw driver, drill, uni-drill bit, and sleeving tool, I don't have a dremel, (its my next buy)

if you think I always did the same thing, I cant force you to change your mind because i'm pretty agree with you on this
but I like white build, don't like black and sorry but Caselabs are the only case I like until today (found another great one)
I did these build first for me, I hope you understand I will do what I like first, not for the community, sure I like sharing my work and like reading all good comments from the same community, but I did these build for me first (and my wife loll)
that's why i'm really surprised when I saw one of my build become viral on web like Bloody Angel

and I use Plasti-Dip only on part I need to put back as original for selling or use in other build
i'm pretty sure you already did build with these spray can and you remember how it can be hard to have a really good finish/result,
I already worked in a Body shop 15 years ago, I seriously think its easier to have a great result with right tools

exist a million way to do a great build, not just one, I don't understand why we need to destroy a case to be part of a modder league
if its right, a lot of people on this forum are not real modder, only Paul Tan, Bill Owen and just few other are real modder, not me or you


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you are comparing a 450D and an Arc XL for a watercooled rig, you might also want to take a look at the Enthoo Pro. It's similar to those in size/appearance, I believe it costs a bit less, and generally has better watercooling-friendly features.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003
> http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P/dp/B00K6S1B3Q/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Video Review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you're not in a hurry to buy, Phanteks also has two more cases coming out, the Mini XL and the EVOLV, that also are worth a look. Both are are really interesting, to say the least. I've no idea when they will show up or what the price point for either will be though. Previous times Phanteks teased with a case it was several months before they showed up for sale anywhere.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Vids


Wow, didn't even know about Phantek. The Aesthetics very much like the Arc XL aren't entirely to my liking, though i do like them better than the Arc. The feature set is insane for the price. Thanks for the heads up that case will probably be my go to, less i feel like waiting. +rep


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not hard to paint small things with rattle cans,it really isnt. Plastidip is ridiculously easy to use,using primer and paint...less so,but gives a better effect.
> 
> I would like to see Snef stretch himself a little,he has done some great stuff but produces a lot of the same thing over and over.
> 
> 
> 
> B-Negative
> I think its the first time I see a commentary from you on my work
> and I don't know how to take this, a constructive criticism or simply you don't like my work and its your right
> 
> Hope its a constructive criticism
> 
> like I said a lot of time, i'm more a builder than modder, I live in a small apartment on second floor, don't have tools, space or garage to do a real mod, if you look at some of my previous build, you will see I painted most of my stuff in my dining room
> only have screw driver, drill, uni-drill bit, and sleeving tool, I don't have a dremel, (its my next buy)
> 
> if you think I always did the same thing, I cant force you to change your mind because i'm pretty agree with you on this
> but I like white build, don't like black and sorry but Caselabs are the only case I like until today (found another great one)
> I did these build first for me, I hope you understand I will do what I like first, not for the community, sure I like sharing my work and like reading all good comments from the same community, but I did these build for me first (and my wife loll)
> that's why i'm really surprised when I saw one of my build become viral on web like Bloody Angel
> 
> and I use Plasti-Dip only on part I need to put back as original for selling or use in other build
> i'm pretty sure you already did build with these spray can and you remember how it can be hard to have a really good finish/result,
> I already worked in a Body shop 15 years ago, I seriously think its easier to have a great result with right tools
> 
> exist a million way to do a great build, not just one, I don't understand why we need to destroy a case to be part of a modder league
> if its right, a lot of people on this forum are not real modder, only Paul Tan, Bill Owen and just few other are real modder, not me or you
Click to expand...

Its purely constructive Snef...Im not saying you are not a modder,Im saying you need to find new techniques or materials as your builds look identical but with a colour change. This is not a slight on what you do,rather an indication on where you need to go to keep fresh.

Seeing the same thing over and over gets boring you see?

Painting with cans IS easy on small items,panels and large flat surfaces is where rattle cans are fail.
Explaining to a non-modder like Wermad how EASY something is for him to do encourages him to TRY these things. All the modding techniques I have used or create I share with the community,this is well known.
Now,dont get your panties in a bunch and start with being a primadonna over it,if people just say 'it looks great' all the time then there is no impetus to push yourself.


----------



## WiSK

I'm a dining room modder too. I don't have the eye for beauty as Snef does, nor the resources and experience that BNeg does. Agree that there's a need to push oneself, do one or two things new each time. But saying Snef's builds look the same is a bit of a disservice to how good they look.

He might be a one-trick-pony, but it's an awfully good trick


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm a dining room modder too. I don't have the eye for beauty as Snef does, nor *the resources* and experience that BNeg does. Agree that there's a need to push oneself, do one or two things new each time. *But saying Snef's builds look the same* is a bit of a disservice to how good they look.
> 
> *He might be a one-trick-pony*, but it's an awfully good trick


You mean my back Garden?

2 months before I get my CNC mill tho...









You subconsciously agree tho apparently.

The do look good but look the same,they can be both. It is a constructive viewpoint,you can take it on board or discard it. I would like to think people would want to hear comments made with a genuine interest in progression rather than fawning.


----------



## WiSK

I agree that progression is important, is important to say. But have trouble believing "it's easy" to wermad was your idea of being constructive to Snef. There were nicer ways you could have talked about his hard work without fawning. When you talked to me a while ago about making a custom acrylic reservoir, you were helpful without being confrontational. "I've got some glue left over, wanna borrow it?" is what you said. Well I'm glad to report I was encouraged enough to try:


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I sure hope that was a 'practice makes perfect' scrap piece of acrylic and wasn't supposed to be a trio of ports on the top/side/bottom of your new custom res.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I sure hope that was a 'practice makes perfect' scrap piece of acrylic and wasn't supposed to be a trio of ports on the top/side/bottom of your new custom res.


I don't know what you mean?! That'll work fine with some ducttape


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I agree that progression is important, is important to say. *But have trouble believing "it's easy" to wermad was your idea of being constructive to Snef.* There were nicer ways you could have talked about his hard work without fawning. When you talked to me a while ago about making a custom acrylic reservoir, you were helpful without being confrontational. "I've got some glue left over, wanna borrow it?" is what you said. Well I'm glad to report I was encouraged enough to try:


Because it wasnt,the paint comment was for Wermad,the 'push yourself' was for Snef.

Ah..the dreaded bursting... I use a sacrificial board under the drill point and clamp it together. Drill slow but sure
Did you use a drill press?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ah..the dreaded bursting... I use a sacrificial board under the drill point and clamp it together. Drill slow but sure
> Did you use a drill press?


The left one burst because the angle of the cutting edge was too sharp. I found a method online to grind the angle of the cutting edge of the drill back to 0 degrees with a grinding stone.

The second one was wrong because of no press. I made a wooden jig with a guide hole, but it wasn't true, so the bit was wiggling.

So I filed out the wiggle in the jig, and then used water to lubricate. That went well enough for the third hole to be a success


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you are comparing a 450D and an Arc XL for a watercooled rig, you might also want to take a look at the Enthoo Pro. It's similar to those in size/appearance, I believe it costs a bit less, and generally has better watercooling-friendly features.


+Rep for this. The 450D suddenly looks a lot less attractive to me, indeed.


----------



## psycho84




----------



## MrBlunt

i got some much better looking coolant today.
before *Koolance*

after *Mayhems*


----------



## szeged

slinky is that you?


----------



## MrBlunt

i cant stand the slinky builds =|


----------



## kpoeticg

LOLLL. Everybody hates on slinky's build. I thought it was a good build with alot of work put into it, all the personal taste stuff is just aesthetics. I'm not a huge fan of all the labels either


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> LOLLL. Everybody hates on slinky's build. I thought it was a good build with alot of work put into it, all the personal taste stuff is just aesthetics. I'm not a huge fan of all the labels either


It looks horrible. Too much money too little taste.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> It looks horrible. Too much money too little taste.


LoL my thoughts EXACTLY..


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> LOLLL. Everybody hates on slinky's build. I thought it was a good build with alot of work put into it, all the personal taste stuff is just aesthetics. I'm not a huge fan of all the labels either


Yeah, decent builds but the stickers make them look like a tuned out '94 Civic or something. Just too much.


----------



## kpoeticg

Been a while since i seen the pics, but i remember thinking the acrylic looked good. Also liked the way the quad pumps looked watercooled with ram blocks.

Or maybe the fact that the parrot in the video made me laugh....









Edit: Completely agree that the stickers ruined the look of the build. That's what i meant by aesthetics and personal taste tho. He still put alot of work into it, just hid it all underneath stickers and labels


----------



## aaroc

Each HW stickers and logo give 2x performance upgrade and lowers your temps by half immediately.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Each HW stickers and logo give 2x performance upgrade and lowers your temps by half immediately.


Hahaha!! Too funny how that works for PCs too...


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm putting a spoiler on my CPU block. I will show you all!!!!









Edit: DONE!!!



Spoiler: Spoiler


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm putting a spoiler on my CPU block. I will show you all!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: DONE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler


Damn, she looks fast now!


----------



## kpoeticg

Indeed. Can't wait to add some stickers!!!


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> i got some much better looking coolant today.
> 
> after *Mayhems*


What coolant exactly... LOVE THAT LOOK and want it in my next build.


----------



## MrBlunt

mayhems UV green x1, i use darkside LED strips.. they are super bright uv.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Well I figured out how to keep one of my HDDs in my rig when I take out the bottom HDD Cage... I had a 5.25 bay adapter laying around... and it will fit my D Drive quite nicely. That and putting my SSD on the back of the MoBo tray should give me all the room I need for my upcoming Nexxos Monsta 240x85 rad.


----------



## Hefner

I wonder how Slinky's undervolted PWM pumps are doing.


----------



## Kimir

Probably like his overvolted titan, burning. /blame the manufacturer!








ok I'm →


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Probably like his overvolted titan, burning. /blame the manufacturer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ok I'm →


----------



## wermad

I did a small review a few years ago of uv green: mayhems vs feser. Though the mayhems was better under normal light, the feser had a better glow under uv. Mike (or Mick for those not in the US) from mayhems later on said they were going to improve the luminance under uv light. They definitely improved it.


----------



## MrBlunt

yah i loove the look of it. still waiting on some uv sleeving, and probably an aqauero 6:thumb:


----------



## askala2

hello guyz

i introduce my tj11b rig~

kingpin sli,4960x 4.8,dominator 2666mhz 16gb,







thank you ~


----------



## mus1mus

Nice Bencher!!!


----------



## CasP3r

I've started a build log for my first water cooling project. I'm going to jump right into the deep end by starting with acrylic tubing, I'm feeling a little bit nervous but super excited at the same time.







Here's a link if you want to give it a look:

Project Primitus - Caselabs S5 | Water Cooling | Acrylic | Custom Cabling - [Build Log]


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Sorry the worst part of the whole slinky thing is the fact that are multiple people out there paid $14K for one of those eye bombs. _8 sold!_


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Hefner

14k? I should start a bussiness...









Oh well, his loop wasn't that bad aside from the aesthetics. But his RAM/Titan voltages and undervolted PWM pumps were just ridiculous, and especially his arrogant attitude about it when folks kindly pointed out his wrong doings.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> 14k? I should start a bussiness...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, his loop wasn't that bad aside from the aesthetics. But his RAM/Titan voltages and undervolted PWM pumps were just ridiculous, and especially his arrogant attitude about it when folks kindly pointed out his wrong doings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> It looks horrible. Too much money too little taste.


Added on; too much money too little sense.


----------



## kpoeticg

Pretty sure every1 that reads that post is gonna have that same thought about starting a business lol. It was the first thing that popped in my mind


----------



## stickg1

I guess it depends on your location, I can say confidently that a custom PC shop in South Carolina (where I live) would not make any money. Lots of people wanting to remodel their beach homes though, so I do pretty well in the construction industry.


----------



## kpoeticg

I dunno if a custom pc shop would do well where i live either. Maybe a pc shop/repair spot that also does custom work tho.


----------



## Kimir

If I wanted to spend all the money on earth without assembling my pc myself, I would go for 8Pack build on OC.uk, not on Ebay with slinky pc... but that's just me.
Pretty sure I couldn't sell custom pc like my panda build here too, no one understand me for spending that much on it (and after the same people complain they can't run Crysis even in low detail with their supermarket PC. Well everyone priorities are different eh).
Sure thing is, green coolant is of the best effect with night shot.


----------



## kpoeticg

I considered getting a Falcon-Northwest Fragbox once upon a time. I couldn't see myself paying any1 to physically build a custom pc for me tho. If i was gonna spend money tho, i'd probly give it to jameswalt or snef. They always have great attention to detail, color, and aesthetics in their builds. Also both bang em out like hotcakes lol, i've been working on my build for like 9 months


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> If I wanted to spend all the money on earth without assembling my pc myself, I would go for 8Pack build on OC.uk, not on Ebay with slinky pc... but that's just me.
> Pretty sure I couldn't sell custom pc like my panda build here too, no one understand me for spending that much on it (and after the same people complain they can't run Crysis even in low detail with their supermarket PC. Well everyone priorities are different eh).
> Sure thing is, green coolant is of the best effect with night shot.


oh my god there is a review for it...

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FS-001-8P&tool=3


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not hard to paint small things with rattle cans,it really isnt. Plastidip is ridiculously easy to use,using primer and paint...less so,but gives a better effect.
> 
> I would like to see Snef stretch himself a little,he has done some great stuff but produces a lot of the same thing over and over.
> 
> 
> 
> B-Negative
> I think its the first time I see a commentary from you on my work
> and I don't know how to take this, a constructive criticism or simply you don't like my work and its your right
> 
> Hope its a constructive criticism
> 
> like I said a lot of time, i'm more a builder than modder, I live in a small apartment on second floor, don't have tools, space or garage to do a real mod, if you look at some of my previous build, you will see I painted most of my stuff in my dining room
> only have screw driver, drill, uni-drill bit, and sleeving tool, I don't have a dremel, (its my next buy)
> 
> if you think I always did the same thing, I cant force you to change your mind because i'm pretty agree with you on this
> but I like white build, don't like black and sorry but Caselabs are the only case I like until today (found another great one)
> I did these build first for me, I hope you understand I will do what I like first, not for the community, sure I like sharing my work and like reading all good comments from the same community, but I did these build for me first (and my wife loll)
> that's why i'm really surprised when I saw one of my build become viral on web like Bloody Angel
> 
> and I use Plasti-Dip only on part I need to put back as original for selling or use in other build
> i'm pretty sure you already did build with these spray can and you remember how it can be hard to have a really good finish/result,
> I already worked in a Body shop 15 years ago, I seriously think its easier to have a great result with right tools
> 
> exist a million way to do a great build, not just one, I don't understand why we need to destroy a case to be part of a modder league
> if its right, a lot of people on this forum are not real modder, only Paul Tan, Bill Owen and just few other are real modder, not me or you
Click to expand...

Dont limit yourself like that brother. You have a talent many dont have and many envy your skill. The sky is the limit and B-negative was trying to say your talented and he knows you hold more talent within than you show or that you obviously may not even know you have. It wasnt constructive criticism but more of a push to motivate you to take it to the next level.

And while I'm here I'll add one more thing. A spot in the lime light or an article in a magazine doesnt make you a "real modder". Its the hard work, dedication, the love, attention to detail and the way that those who you named pushed themselves to become an innovator and inspiration to everyone that sees their work. Like I said above, the sky is the limit and as long as you push yourself and harness your true potential then anyone can do what those who youve named have done. I dont have a work bench or a router or a miter saw or a torch or welder but I do have a dremel, jig saw, sander, power drill, hand tools and most importantly, I have a strong will, strong heart, one love and I know that as long as I never hold myself back or belittle my skills and I believe in myself, then I can do whatever the hell I want and I can become whoever my heart and will desires.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not hard to paint small things with rattle cans,it really isnt. Plastidip is ridiculously easy to use,using primer and paint...less so,but gives a better effect.
> 
> I would like to see Snef stretch himself a little,he has done some great stuff but produces a lot of the same thing over and over.
> 
> 
> 
> B-Negative
> 
> I think its the first time I see a commentary from you on my work
> 
> and I don't know how to take this, a constructive criticism or simply you don't like my work and its your right
> 
> Hope its a constructive criticism
> 
> like I said a lot of time, i'm more a builder than modder, I live in a small apartment on second floor, don't have tools, space or garage to do a real mod, if you look at some of my previous build, you will see I painted most of my stuff in my dining room
> 
> only have screw driver, drill, uni-drill bit, and sleeving tool, I don't have a dremel, (its my next buy)
> 
> if you think I always did the same thing, I cant force you to change your mind because i'm pretty agree with you on this
> 
> but I like white build, don't like black and sorry but Caselabs are the only case I like until today (found another great one)
> 
> I did these build first for me, I hope you understand I will do what I like first, not for the community, sure I like sharing my work and like reading all good comments from the same community, but I did these build for me first (and my wife loll)
> 
> that's why i'm really surprised when I saw one of my build become viral on web like Bloody Angel
> 
> and I use Plasti-Dip only on part I need to put back as original for selling or use in other build
> 
> i'm pretty sure you already did build with these spray can and you remember how it can be hard to have a really good finish/result,
> 
> I already worked in a Body shop 15 years ago, I seriously think its easier to have a great result with right tools
> 
> exist a million way to do a great build, not just one, I don't understand why we need to destroy a case to be part of a modder league
> 
> if its right, a lot of people on this forum are not real modder, only Paul Tan, Bill Owen and just few other are real modder, not me or you
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Dont limit yourself like that brother. You have a talent many dont have and many envy your skill. The sky is the limit and B-negative was trying to say your talented and he knows you hold more talent within than you show or that you obviously may not even know you have. It wasnt constructive criticism but more of a push to motivate you to take it to the next level.
> 
> And while I'm here I'll add one more thing. *A spot in the lime light or an article in a magazine doesnt make you a "real modder". Its the hard work, dedication, the love, attention to detail* and the way that those who you named pushed themselves to become an innovator and inspiration to everyone that sees their work. Like I said above, the sky is the limit and as long as you push yourself and harness your true potential then anyone can do what those who youve named have done. I dont have a work bench or a router or a miter saw or a torch or welder but I do have a dremel, jig saw, sander, power drill, hand tools and most importantly, I have a strong will, strong heart, one love and I know that as long as I never hold myself back or belittle my skills and I believe in myself, then I can do whatever the hell I want and I can become whoever my heart and will desires.
Click to expand...

Exactly.

Im still not sure why he thinks im not a 'real modder'.....

In other news,In Win want me to do a D Frame MINI. Very excited!!


----------



## Succah

ok so her is my old build and new one I do not know how to do a spoiler so I will only post one pic of each build for now. Please be prepared for the blinding effect of the first build as my camera did not like the lighting very much


----------



## kpoeticg

"Real Modder" is kind of an elitest term. Technically sleeving and making wire harnesses is modding. Surely rigging up an acrylic loop is 'modding'.

Paul Tan, Bill Owen, Kier, Mosquito, L3P, Darlene, Syrillian, etc... Those are most definitely some of the 'BEST Modders' I've seen. Modding is modding tho. If you modify something then you're a modder.


----------



## Succah

Like I said the first build was a tad bright.


----------



## MrBlunt

guys.. this isnt maury.. keep it related to subject.. nobody really cares about someone's title. Succah let's see those pics


----------



## MrBlunt

looks good!


----------



## Succah

first build was in the 540air nice case but not enough room for push/pull and gtx780 lightnings


----------



## kpoeticg

Agreed about the builds looking good. The Spoiler button looks like a blacked out quote box above the text box, but you don't need to spoiler out your own build pics

Lol @ the threads OP being told not to go off topic tho...







Or maybe that was just directed at me


----------



## Succah

water loop: swiftech mcp655-b, xspc 240 rad, ek asus m6f full mobo block set, ek nickel acetal vga blocks, ek nickel plexi cpu block, mix of bitspower and xspc fittings


----------



## Succah

ok well here goes more pics of new build then muahahahahaha











Also have xspc 360x-flow rad up top and bitspower 150 res


----------



## kpoeticg

Looking good. I'd use your flash a bit less tho







It ruined a cpl of your pics. Like the build tho. Keep it up


----------



## Succah

still have a lot of work to do on it and have not started ocing it as yet but temps are looking goong for stock settings cpu staying around 25-30c idle and hasn't gone over 50c while running prime95


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Dont limit yourself like that brother. You have a talent many dont have and many envy your skill. The sky is the limit and B-negative was trying to say your talented and he knows you hold more talent within than you show or that you obviously may not even know you have. It wasnt constructive criticism but more of a push to motivate you to take it to the next level.
> 
> And while I'm here I'll add one more thing. A spot in the lime light or an article in a magazine doesnt make you a "real modder". Its the hard work, dedication, the love, attention to detail and the way that those who you named pushed themselves to become an innovator and inspiration to everyone that sees their work. Like I said above, the sky is the limit and as long as you push yourself and harness your true potential then anyone can do what those who youve named have done. I dont have a work bench or a router or a miter saw or a torch or welder but I do have a dremel, jig saw, sander, power drill, hand tools and most importantly, I have a strong will, strong heart, one love and I know that as long as I never hold myself back or belittle my skills and I believe in myself, then I can do whatever the hell I want and I can become whoever my heart and will desires.











Thanks, this what I think about B-Negative's post after read all comments he did after

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> Im still not sure why he thinks im not a 'real modder'.....
> 
> In other news,In Win want me to do a D Frame MINI. Very excited!!


loll .... you are a "real modder" ,
I talk about people thinking need to destroy a case to be mooder

and for other news, great news and for sure I will follow it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> "Real Modder" is kind of an elitest term. Technically sleeving and making wire harnesses is modding. Surely rigging up an acrylic loop is 'modding'.
> 
> Paul Tan, Bill Owen, Kier, Mosquito, L3P, Darlene, Syrillian, etc... Those are most definitely some of the 'BEST Modders' I've seen. Modding is modding tho. If you modify something then you're a modder.


this









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> guys.. this isnt maury.. keep it related to subject.. nobody really cares about someone's title. Succah let's see those pics


sorry boss your right, back to topic


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, love the new avatar snef. Best one yet









Edit: I really can't look at it without laughing


----------



## Succah

yeah that cat would prob eat my daughters dog I have for mine lmao


----------



## wermad

That's been around a for a while. Seen other members in the past sport it


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL, first time for me. I'm still a bit of a n00b compared to you guys tho. I just have so many posts cuz i'm unemployed









Edit: Oooh just noticed this months my anniversary























Edit: Just realized that means i've had my XB for a year and i'm still not really close to finished


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I found the light colour I like.



Just waiting for a DVI adaptor for the mini screen then its time to break out the backdrop and take some proper photo's


----------



## kpoeticg

Such a great build BNEG!!! I love all the custom work you did on it


----------



## Succah

nice looking rig:thumb:


----------



## wermad

Milk shake bending machine







. Yummy


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Haha yes cause only some milk shake could make that rig sweeter!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Milk shake bending machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Yummy


Rave Biscuit Milk Shake Breakcore Microwave Hate Machine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo5JpA28ljk&feature=youtu.be


----------



## kpoeticg

Link's broken

I like "Rave Biscuit" tho LOLLLL. Been a long time since i had one...


----------



## wermad

Is it me, or the lightning, but do the stripes fade towards the top?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Link's broken
> 
> I like "Rave Biscuit" tho LOLLLL. Been a long time since i had one...


Link added as OOTOOB is struggling.
It used to be a staple diet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it me, or the lightning, but do the stripes fade towards the top?


Lighting Werm,the stripes are black normally.


----------



## wermad

Seeing you're a master-modder, have you thought about changing the controller's led's?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing you're a master-modder, have you thought about changing the controller's led's?


Yeah...to off. Next time,im blanking the buttons altogether,I just use the remote for everything,off/on..the lot. I installed Win just using the remote for it,it has a dpad mouse and everything.


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I found the light colour I like.
> 
> 
> 
> Just waiting for a DVI adaptor for the mini screen then its time to break out the backdrop and take some proper photo's


Looks great B NEGATIVE! I like how you used the flex bays for that giant reservoir, the gpu block cover is a thing of beauty as well.


----------



## kpoeticg

I get sooo frustrated when i use the Aquacomputer remote to control windows lol. The mouse moves like molasses


----------



## Kimir

Mine too, it's to damn slow and now on 4k I don't even see it move. :|


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Now there's a first world problem.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, i'm bout to upgrade to the LG 34" 4k monitor myself


----------



## Kimir

2nd time I got that "first world problem" sarcasm, I'm not getting it.


----------



## kpoeticg

I think he was just joking about 4k being expensive, and saying that Chicago is in the middle-east


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> 2nd time I got that "first world problem" sarcasm, I'm not getting it.


As in there are problems in the developing world that are much worse and meaningful, the first world that does not have such problems then has relatively shallow issues in comparison. So complaining about a remote bundled with a $200 controller to control a PC with a 4k monitor is, well, you know


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think he was just joking about 4k being expensive, and saying that Chicago is in the middle-east


It sure is related to 4K as I got it yesterday referring to 4K too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As in there are problems in the developing world that are much worse and meaningful, the first world that does not have such problems then has relatively shallow issues in comparison. So complaining about a remote bundled with a $200 controller to control a PC with a 4k monitor is, well, you know


I kind of get the definition of this expression, it's more the use of it as is, without a referral of the context that displease me. Iz me ingles gud enouf for a frog?









eh yeah, I just wanted to use the remote as... a remote in my bed while watching tv series, I guess I'll have to stick to the logitech mediaplay I'm used to, that thing is a bogus, why you no bluetooth?!


----------



## QAKE

Hey Guys,

I'm building a rig with this motherboard and going SLI with 2x Asus GTX780 Poseidon and also a custom water loop with acrylic tubing

I also modded this motherboard:



If you like it and want to see more, follow my build log here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1497072/build-log-nzxt-h440-project-gamma-i7-4770k-2x-asus-gtx780-poseidon-asus-maximus-vi-formula-nzxt-h440-custom-waterloop-acrylic-tubes

And if you like my modding, follow us on Facebook for more awesome mods (link in signature)

Cheers


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I kind of get the definition of this expression, it's more the use of it as is, without a referral of the context that displease me. Iz me ingles gud enouf for a frog?


Yes, yu can haves a crwassaant now.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

I don't know what is going on in here, but hey *snef*, your builds are among some of the finest to ever grace OCN. I enjoy each and every photo. Your builds come across well to (nearly?) all...even those who aren't into computers at all. And that says something, IMO. A lot of the stuff here can really only be appreciated by those in the know...which is fine for us, but even my Mom can appreciate the obvious beauty and details of your work.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah snef's a beast for sure


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just picked up some clear primo chill tubing so I can add my black ice gt xflow 240 to the Frankenstein







and I'm looking to use the may hems clear blue uv dye


----------



## Blackops_2

Ek Fittings & angle extenders good to go? I've seen plenty of people use them just figured i'd ask. They're so much cheaper than Bitspower so i added about 10 of them and angle fittings to the list for my backup rig.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Ek Fittings & angle extenders good to go? I've seen plenty of people use them just figured i'd ask. They're so much cheaper than Bitspower so i added about 10 of them and angle fittings to the list for my backup rig.


I have both Bitspower and EK, and I find the EK to be very close in quality to Bitspower, but at a much cheaper price.


----------



## Blackops_2

That's what I was thinking. Had seen them in tons of builds. Thanks kcuestag









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Succah

Yeah I just used both in my recent build and honestly if you don't look for the bitspower logo you'll never know the difference. The rotation on the ek is a bit looser then the bitspower but I have not seen any performance difference thus far and rig been running for about a week now.


----------



## snef

Ek are available in black and nickel, bitspower have a lot of color

And bitspower have a big choice of fittings , more than 90 and 45 degree


----------



## Blackops_2

I'll probably still go for Bitspower with my sig rig, but for the backup rig the EK fittings look great and cut a good deal of cost.


----------



## Succah

the only reason I bought the ek fitting was pcs was out of the bitspower at the time


----------



## royce5950

I like that the back panels on cards are starting to come in black now.



top of EVGA gtx 750 ti FTW before removing the heatsink.

I'm sketching up some blueprints right now.



The card will decrease in length after removing the heatsink. The part on the far left that has tons of tiny holes in it isnt attached to the pcb and it seems to be screwed onto the heatsink... I thought that was kind of weird but I'll post some more pics when I get started on the waterblocks.

I took some random shots of my personal rig today, I figured I would add to the content.



EK coolstream PE rad, another in the front.



I hate the 6pin extension for the graphics card, I ran out of black and red paracord :'(



Thats the backplate I made. It works great. Just for aesthetics though but it does fit the theme nicely.


----------



## MrBlunt

i like the bends! very clean!


----------



## Succah

very nice looking rig


----------



## stickg1

I think I'm going to use the EK ZMT tubing in my build and black everything out.


----------



## kpoeticg

I like the ZMT, just wish it came in other sizes than 3/8 5/8. I use it for all my temporary soft-tubing


----------



## stickg1

It's funny how I'll spend an entire month trying to pick the parts and saving up money to order all at once, then I get the money in hand and half the crap I want is sold out or on back order.









Has anyone in the US ever ordered directly from EK? If I got a bunch of stuff would it be cost effective or am I better off just getting their stuff from US retail outlets?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah think how i felt when loaded 2 290x's in my cart on preorder day just to cancel the order and wait for launch









I've never ordered direct from EK. I always place large orders from PPC and FCPU so there's always other stuff i've been waiting to order. I do hate when stuff is sold out by the time i decide to pull the trigger tho. Same thing happened with the Monsoon Hardline Kits lol


----------



## VSG

Stick, I may have a solution. Will send a PM soon.


----------



## DreadManD

I know the feeling man. That problem delayed my build for 6 weeks!


----------



## GanX

Hello everyone

Time for me to join the club! The hardware is a bit out of date i know but i feel an upgrade coming soon







however for now its running just fine. Anyways Pictures below!









*Hardware:*

*Mainboard:* Asus Rampage III Extreme ROG
*CPU:* Intel Core i7 960 3.2 GHz
*Memory:* 3x 2GB Corsair Dominator CMP6GX3M3A1600C7
*Graphic Card:* XFX HD 6990 4GB
*SSD:* Revodrive 3 x2
*PSU:* EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2

*Water Cooling:*

*Radiator 1:* XSPC RX480 V3 - Black
*Radiator 2:* XSPC RX360 - Black
*Reservior 1:* XSPC Laing DDC BayRes Two
*Reservior 2:* FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V - 250mm - Red
*CPU Block:* XSPC RayStorm CPU - Intel
*GPU Block:* Heatkiller GPU-x 6990
*Pump:* 2x Swiftech MCP35X
*Fan's:* 8x Arctic Cooling Arctic F12

*Temperature (Stock Settings - No OC):*

*CPU Air Cooled:* 1-2% Load 55 c | 99-100% Load 88 c
*GPU Air Cooled:* 0% Load 52 c | 99-100% Load 98 c

*CPU Water Cooled:* 1-2% Load 33 c | 99-100% Load 54 c
*GPU Water Cooled:* 0% Load 34 c | 99-100% Load 42 c

*Overclocking:*

*CPU Stock:* 3.2 GHz @ 1.210 V
*GPU Stock:* GPU Core Clock 880 MHz | GPU Memory Clock 1250 MHz | On Both GPU's

*CPU OC:* 4 GHz @ 1.375 V
*GPU OC:* GPU Core Clock 980 MHz | GPU Memory Clock 1500 MHz | On Both GPU's

*For more Pictures see "Spoilers"*



*For more Pictures see "Spoilers"*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


















































I hope you enjoyed the show







feel free to ask questions!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It's funny how I'll spend an entire month trying to pick the parts and saving up money to order all at once, then I get the money in hand and half the crap I want is sold out or on back order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone in the US ever ordered directly from EK? If I got a bunch of stuff would it be cost effective or am I better off just getting their stuff from US retail outlets?


I order stuff quite frequently from Slovenia compared to retailers in the US. The shipping is faster even thanks to DHL Express.







in the end, the cost is still about the same, but warranty terms (IMO) are easier when direct with the manufacturer compared to having a middle man. Faster shipping is a bonus as well.


----------



## CasP3r

Even though I don't live in the US, I was positively surprised with how fast I got my stuff from EK. It took only two business days from when I placed my order until DHL was knocking on my door with my gpu block. DHL Express is a little bit more expensive than some kind of regular shipping of course, especially if you live on the other side of the pond, but it's definitely fast.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Aw Crap....just discovered that the 290 in the S3 doesnt support DVI-I so the bloody mini screen wont work....


----------



## VSG

What about a HDMI to analog adapter? You would only miss out on the sound transfer unless I am mistaken.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What about a HDMI to analog adapter? You would only miss out on the sound transfer unless I am mistaken.


I went with a DP to VGA adapter instead


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It's funny how I'll spend an entire month trying to pick the parts and saving up money to order all at once, then I get the money in hand and half the crap I want is sold out or on back order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone in the US ever ordered directly from EK? If I got a bunch of stuff would it be cost effective or am I better off just getting their stuff from US retail outlets?


I feel you man. I have that 10% off coupon and somethings are still not in stock and I've been waiting about 6 weeks.


----------



## stickg1

I have a couple of parts in route, one rad, a pump/res, and a GPU block. Slowly but surely!


----------



## wermad

Aoc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I have a couple of parts in route, one rad, a pump/res, and a GPU block. Slowly but surely!


Linky to build log?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys whats up, been along time since i posted in here, probably cause i sold my Aif540 Build, and currenty using my EVGA Hadron Air with a stock HSF









but ya i ordered the NCASE M1 V2, should hopefully get it by August/Sept, i was just planning on doing a 240 AIO for the CPU and keep the GPU on air as i switch cards often, but after seeing the EK Fullblock CPU/Chipset block for the Maximus Impact i want it, and found one users build, using it but he has his GPU in the loop which i want to avoid if i can, but seeing how he did his, having the GPU blocked turning the card into a single slot left just enough room for his EK Pump, was wondering if you guys from these couple pics (his build ) can you guys help me think of another pump option, if i were to keep my double slot 780?

As you can see from the top with the rad, fans, fittings and blocks it full at the top.


And here is how he squeezed the Pump under the single slot card.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What about a HDMI to analog adapter? You would only miss out on the sound transfer unless I am mistaken.
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a DP to VGA adapter instead
Click to expand...

arent you sacrificing quality then? do you have a display port or mini display port on you gfx card? also many motherboards offer settings in the bios to allow you to use the onboard graphics along with the graphics card to run two screen at once. I have the z87 g45 by msi in one of my pcs and it allows me to run a screen from my dvi port on the graphics card, another screen from the hdmi on my graphics card then a 3rd from the hdmi out on my motherboard. also there are display port and mini display port adapters that convert to dvi as well. IF you didnt know already. Good luck, but if vga works fine then thats ok. I just was under the impression running out of vga any way your converting it, dp to vga or vga to dp youd be sacrificing quality. but i could be wrong.


----------



## mus1mus

Quality loss won't be that much using analog output to feed his S3. At least from my experience and the fact the he's using a fairly short analog cable for that.

What will be noticeable though is the noise that analog signals are prone to. Screen flickering, Trace lines visible and stuff. but I know B-Neg is far too knowledgeable of this.









A bit off-topic but boy, B-Neg's rig is soooo







yummy!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Cheers for the concern fella's,don't worry,its only feeding a little touchscreen,quality is not really a concern.


----------



## Jeronbernal

lil leak testin' 4 hours in. not bad


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> lil leak testin' 4 hours in. not bad


wow.. i like gold


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Aoc
> Linky to build log?


In my sig, I'd link it but mobile.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Aoc
> Linky to build log?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> In my sig, I'd link it but mobile.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1486595/perpetual-build-log-stickg1s-caselabs-mercury-s3-gunmetal-black/0_100

Here you go.


----------



## Destrto

Ek shipping is fast?? Ek says it shipped on the 11th, and all I know so far is that my item is still en route to the states.


----------



## PachAz

Why would one order from ek website if you live in US anyways? Order from frozen cpu or performance psc. Much cheaper and faster and cuter.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Why would one order from ek website if you live in US anyways? Order from frozen cpu or performance psc. Much cheaper and faster and cuter.


It was due to an RMA for spacers for the Thermosphere. The ones that shipped with mine didn't fit the R9 270X properly.


----------



## derickwm

Spacers probably didn't ship out DHL Express.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Spacers probably didn't ship out DHL Express.


Probably not, but even items shipped to me from China don't take this long.


----------



## MrBlunt

patience grasshopper... patience


----------



## stickg1

Ugh why is the 240mm ST30 not in stock anywhere?! I found one in excellent condition that I picked up used, I need one more!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ugh why is the 240mm ST30 not in stock anywhere?! I found one in excellent condition that I picked up used, I need one more!!!


I do still see it a few places, but looks like they are charging a bit more than the < $45 you would normally see it listed at PPCs or FCPU for.

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=97084&gclid=COvT_qSZlr8CFUIQ7Aod9AkANg
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p12343_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-240mm.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-240mm-/281366874078
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alphacool-NexXos-ST30-240mm-Radiator-Liquid-Cooling-PC-Computer-Radiator-2-x-120-/121350825682


----------



## aaroc

Posted a lot of pictures to my WC build log if someone wants to see them.


----------



## Im Batman

In the middle of breaking down my loop and cleaning all my blocks, should I be sure to wash off the vinegar I have used to clean the blocks or is it fine to have just let it dried? I'm using copper and nickel blocks.

Thanks.


----------



## armartins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys whats up, been along time since i posted in here, probably cause i sold my Aif540 Build, and currenty using my EVGA Hadron Air with a stock HSF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but ya i ordered the NCASE M1 V2, should hopefully get it by August/Sept, i was just planning on doing a 240 AIO for the CPU and keep the GPU on air as i switch cards often, but after seeing the EK Fullblock CPU/Chipset block for the Maximus Impact i want it, and found one users build, using it but he has his GPU in the loop which i want to avoid if i can, but seeing how he did his, having the GPU blocked turning the card into a single slot left just enough room for his EK Pump, was wondering if you guys from these couple pics (his build ) can you guys help me think of another pump option, if i were to keep my double slot 780?
> 
> As you can see from the top with the rad, fans, fittings and blocks it full at the top.
> And here is how he squeezed the Pump under the single slot card.


I would try to mount the pump on top of the cpu block, maybe you'll lose the second fan on that side. But I think it's doable.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> In the middle of breaking down my loop and cleaning all my blocks, should I be sure to wash off the vinegar I have used to clean the blocks or is it fine to have just let it dried? I'm using copper and nickel blocks.
> 
> Thanks.


You must wash off the vinegar.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armartins*
> 
> I would try to mount the pump on top of the cpu block, maybe you'll lose the second fan on that side. But I think it's doable.


There is only push config in that pic lol , super tight in there!


----------



## kpoeticg

Anybody feel like giving me some advice? I'm finishing flushing everything through my filter today so i can get my rig powered back up. I can't decide if i wanna leave this ram => gpu run as is. I made it like that cuz i wanted the run to hug the backplate and keep all horizontal and vertical straight lines at the same time. Can't decide if i should play with it some more or if i should leave it. I Keep going back and forth....













Sorry, i know i've posted these pics before but i wasn't really asking for opinions then as much as just showing my work. Honest opinions appreciated =)

Edit: The other option that i can think of is to put a spacer at the gpu port. Then i'd be able to remove the square but it wouldn't hug the backplate. Then i'd be able to turn the 90 in the ram block to the right (in that last pic) and remove all the excess links.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Im Batman*
> 
> In the middle of breaking down my loop and cleaning all my blocks, should I be sure to wash off the vinegar I have used to clean the blocks or is it fine to have just let it dried? I'm using copper and nickel blocks.
> 
> Thanks.


Wash off the vinegar with distilled, you don't want the acidity of the vinegar corroding your blocks.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Anybody feel like giving me some advice? I'm finishing flushing everything through my filter today so i can get my rig powered back up. I can't decide if i wanna leave this ram => gpu run as is. I made it like that cuz i wanted the run to hug the backplate and keep all horizontal and vertical straight lines at the same time. Can't decide if i should play with it some more or if i should leave it. I Keep going back and forth....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, i know i've posted these pics before but i wasn't really asking for opinions then as much as just showing my work. Honest opinions appreciated =)
> 
> Edit: The other option that i can think of is to put a spacer at the gpu port. Then i'd be able to remove the square but it wouldn't hug the backplate. Then i'd be able to turn the 90 in the ram block to the right (in that last pic) and remove all the excess links.


Maybe, its my humble opinion, put your GPUs in Parallel and move the inlet to the right port (on last pics)

on first pics the loop from mossfet to chipset block
need a little bit longet vertical tube to have a perfect horizontal run, hope im clear

and yes, ram to GPU,

like I said, its just me


----------



## kpoeticg

Your opinions more than appreciated snef. I'm a big fan of your work

You got a good eye to notice that vertical tube, i didn't think it showed in the pics









I have to adjust the Mosfet => Ram as well. I didn't notice til a cpl days ago that the heights weren't right

You're the 2nd person to recommend parallel. The reason i didn't set it up like that is cuz i have a 35x3 for my pump. I figured with that much pump, serial might be more beneficial since i don't really need the extra flow from parallel. I've planned on testing when i get my 3rd card. I like the way parallel looks better than serial tho, so maybe i'll just set it up parallel for now like you suggested.

When you say 'yes to gpu', do you mean shortening the run or keeping it tracing back around in a square like i have it?


----------



## snef

I suggested parallel just for aesthetic, serial or parallel, not a big difference in your setup, but you have a lot of 90 degree

and yes I mean a short run will be better for aesthetic and more clean

the back plate in your setup are just a little great detail but not the point of interest because of your tubing, everyone will focus on your loop

make it very tight and clean

on build with a very very short tubing run, the back plate take more importance, specially for color quantity of secondary color


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx bro. Great advice and makes alot of sense. I'm gonna make it parallel and shorten the run. I'll post some pics later today or tomorrow when i have it up and running again


----------



## snef

by the way, a very great loop, I really like it

want to see any update


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx









My build's going snail pace, but i'm getting there slowly


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Anybody feel like giving me some advice? I'm finishing flushing everything through my filter today so i can get my rig powered back up. I can't decide if i wanna leave this ram => gpu run as is. I made it like that cuz i wanted the run to hug the backplate and keep all horizontal and vertical straight lines at the same time. Can't decide if i should play with it some more or if i should leave it. I Keep going back and forth....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, i know i've posted these pics before but i wasn't really asking for opinions then as much as just showing my work. Honest opinions appreciated =)
> 
> Edit: The other option that i can think of is to put a spacer at the gpu port. Then i'd be able to remove the square but it wouldn't hug the backplate. Then i'd be able to turn the 90 in the ram block to the right (in that last pic) and remove all the excess links.


Too.....many.......fittings.......

Vincent just bought another boat because of you.


----------



## stickg1

Oh man, I just got my EK D5 140 Res/Pump combo. It's huge!!! No idea how I'm going to mount it in this S3...yet....

One option I came up with would require I trim all my cables, AGAIN. So I'm trying to get creative to avoid that.


----------



## derickwm

I don't know how your setup is arranged but maybe mount it to the front radiator/fan with our new uni 120mm mount?


----------



## MrBlunt

LoL......... This is the story of my life....


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Anybody feel like giving me some advice? I'm finishing flushing everything through my filter today so i can get my rig powered back up. I can't decide if i wanna leave this ram => gpu run as is. I made it like that cuz i wanted the run to hug the backplate and keep all horizontal and vertical straight lines at the same time. Can't decide if i should play with it some more or if i should leave it. I Keep going back and forth....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, i know i've posted these pics before but i wasn't really asking for opinions then as much as just showing my work. Honest opinions appreciated =)
> 
> Edit: The other option that i can think of is to put a spacer at the gpu port. Then i'd be able to remove the square but it wouldn't hug the backplate. Then i'd be able to turn the 90 in the ram block to the right (in that last pic) and remove all the excess links.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too.....many.......fittings.......
> 
> Vincent just bought another boat because of you.
Click to expand...

LOLLLL, you ain't kidding









The folks at FCPU and PPC did pretty decent too lol


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh man, I just got my EK D5 140 Res/Pump combo. It's huge!!! No idea how I'm going to mount it in this S3...yet....
> 
> One option I came up with would require I trim all my cables, AGAIN. So I'm trying to get creative to avoid that.


If a smaller res for that Ek combo would help, Id be interested in swapping your 140 for my 100.?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I don't know how your setup is arranged but maybe mount it to the front radiator/fan with our new uni 120mm mount?


That sounds about perfect. I have a uni-mount but I would need something to mount it to the radiator with. Where can I find one?


----------



## derickwm

Uh our web shop has them, they just launched so US retailers will probably have them soon as well.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That sounds about perfect. I have a uni-mount but I would need something to mount it to the radiator with. Where can I find one?


Or you can use this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8797/ex-pmp-79/UNDesigns_Z2_Pump_Bracket_-_120mm_Fan_Mount.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Anybody feel like giving me some advice? I'm finishing flushing everything through my filter today so i can get my rig powered back up. I can't decide if i wanna leave this ram => gpu run as is. I made it like that cuz i wanted the run to hug the backplate and keep all horizontal and vertical straight lines at the same time. Can't decide if i should play with it some more or if i should leave it. I Keep going back and forth....








Sorry, i know i've posted these pics before but i wasn't really asking for opinions then as much as just showing my work. Honest opinions appreciated =)

Edit: The other option that i can think of is to put a spacer at the gpu port. Then i'd be able to remove the square but it wouldn't hug the backplate. Then i'd be able to turn the 90 in the ram block to the right (in that last pic) and remove all the excess links.

_In this last picture I will take all the fitting out from the ram block on the right. Make a straight line (either with tube or with extenders (white and red to keep the theme) from the ram block up and link with a 90 degree (perhaps the small 90 from bitspower) to the VGA. You can even choose if want the GPUs in parallell or not since that would allow you to choose either port on the first VGA as the inline.

Hope it helps that is just mine two cents.








_


----------



## Slider46

Been quite a while since I posted here so here's my newly completed build










Spoiler: FINAL PICS!!


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Been quite a while since I posted here so here's my newly completed build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FINAL PICS!!

















Nicely done


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Been quite a while since I posted here so here's my newly completed build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FINAL PICS!!


Love this build saw it on Corsair's FB page. Did you add any dye to get the pastel green that color?


----------



## Slider46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nicely done


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Love this build saw it on Corsair's FB page. Did you add any dye to get the pastel green that color?


Thank you. No dye - just Mayhems Pastel Mint Green


----------



## kpoeticg

@Slider46, build looks fantastic man. Great work!!!!


----------



## MrBlunt

My upcoming project. wont be anything TOOOO Special.. but always badass
















lol i love my hard drives can you tell?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Anybody feel like giving me some advice? I'm finishing flushing everything through my filter today so i can get my rig powered back up. I can't decide if i wanna leave this ram => gpu run as is. I made it like that cuz i wanted the run to hug the backplate and keep all horizontal and vertical straight lines at the same time. Can't decide if i should play with it some more or if i should leave it. I Keep going back and forth....


Take it from some who's been there with the north/south bridge setup and the new monoblock setup (including RAM blocks), lose 70% of those fittings and try your hand at more acrylic bending to get the bends you need to simplify all of that plumbing. After all, isn't that the whole reason why most acrylic users use it?


----------



## kpoeticg

I was originally planning on doing all bends, but when i started planning out the loop i realized it would be near impossible for me to get all horizontal/vertical lines with no diagonal if i used bends instead of 90's. I plan on using all bends for the rest of my loop (pumps/rads/res/etc).

For instance the CPU => PCH, PCH => VRM, VRM => RAM, & RAM => GPU would turn out curvy like S's because it's such a tight radius. The 90's let me keep the sharp lines.

I'm planning on using no 90's and all bends for the entire non-mobo part of my loop tho (as long as nothing prevents it). I'm even considering using 16mm tube for the rest of it, but trying to figure out if there's any negative effects from using 16mm for the rest of my loop and 12mm for the mobo portion.

Anyway, i shortened the gpu run and made the gpu's parallel. Instead of picking a few pic's i'm just gonna quote my post from my build log and spoiler it. Let me know if you guys think it looks better or worse. Thanx in advance =)



Spoiler: Pics



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Flood Warning!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 acrylic tubes coming out of the VRM block were a little uneven so i had to make longer/more even tubes. I'm not sure if it's quite perfect yet, might have to sand em down a little more.
> 
> Here's what they look like now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed the runs coming from the tubes cuz that's the angle that showed me they were unlevel before.
> 
> Anyway, i think the gpu run looks better now. What do you guys think?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Been quite a while since I posted here so here's my newly completed build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FINAL PICS!!


Ooo, I love the colors, the acrylic work is nice and the touch of metallic green here or there makes it all come together, good work!


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I was originally planning on doing all bends, but when i started planning out the loop i realized it would be near impossible for me to get all horizontal/vertical lines with no diagonal if i used bends instead of 90's. I plan on using all bends for the rest of my loop (pumps/rads/res/etc).
> 
> For instance the CPU => PCH, PCH => VRM, VRM => RAM, & RAM => GPU would turn out curvy like S's because it's such a tight radius. The 90's let me keep the sharp lines.
> 
> I'm planning on using no 90's and all bends for the entire non-mobo part of my loop tho (as long as nothing prevents it). I'm even considering using 16mm tube for the rest of it, but trying to figure out if there's any negative effects from using 16mm for the rest of my loop and 12mm for the mobo portion.
> 
> Anyway, i shortened the gpu run and made the gpu's parallel. Instead of picking a few pic's i'm just gonna quote my post from my build log and spoiler it. Let me know if you guys think it looks better or worse. Thanx in advance =)


why not use a RIVE BE monoblock by EK. there is a black acetal version if I'm not mistaken. Might help reduce the clutter on the processor area, make it easier to work with the bends and help with flow (all those 90° bends probably doesn't help much on that end). Its just my 2cents, but I think it would give the setup a much cleaner look.

example:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, cuz i spent a fortune on all those fittings. Then i spent a ton of time trying to get it altogether with all straight lines, and the day i posted the pics in my build log, the Moboblock was announced in here









I agree the Monoblock woulda been much more cost-effecient and cleaner. I was already commited tho.

Also, most importantly, the Monoblock only comes Nickel Plated for some reason. I've gone outta my way not to have any Nickel blocks outta paranoia. All my blocks are Copper/Plexi =)


----------



## ledzepp3

What do you guys think would be needed radiator wise if I was gonna do a triple Radeon 7990 [email protected] rig?







I've always liked dual GPU cards, and the 7990 cards still got a lotta kick in them, plus they aren't $1500 like some other dual GPU cards are. I could potentially put three of them in a CaseLabs Mercury S5 plus a pedestal, so that's what I've gotta work with if I stick to these plans. I could potentially put a Monsta 360mm in the bottom, plus a decently think 280mm rad in the front of the case. I'm going to have a window on the top of the case, so no rads there. Overall it'd be a Devil's Canyon i7 plus those three cards.

-Zepp


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> What do you guys think would be needed radiator wise if I was gonna do a triple Radeon 7990 [email protected] rig?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always liked dual GPU cards, and the 7990 cards still got a lotta kick in them, plus they aren't $1500 like some other dual GPU cards are. I could potentially put three of them in a CaseLabs Mercury S5 plus a pedestal, so that's what I've gotta work with if I stick to these plans. I could potentially put a Monsta 360mm in the bottom, plus a decently think 280mm rad in the front of the case. I'm going to have a window on the top of the case, so no rads there. Overall it'd be a Devil's Canyon i7 plus those three cards.
> 
> -Zepp


What motherboard are you using because that doesn't sound like it would work?


----------



## stickg1

Yeah and does a S5 even have 6 expansion slots? Can you even use 6 GPUs at the same time? There are mATX boards with 3x PCIe 16x slots? I'm totally confused.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah and does a S5 even have 6 expansion slots? Can you even use 6 GPUs at the same time? There are mATX boards with 3x PCIe 16x slots? I'm totally confused.


That's not the issue. Those 7990's are dual gpu cards, so there would only be three of them. I just don't know of an MATX motherboard that would support 3 x 16x PCIE slots.


----------



## stickg1

I know they're dual GPU cards. That means 6 GPUs still.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I know they're dual GPU cards. That means 6 GPUs still.


I think you can hang the 3rd card though off of the the bottom PCI slot. I'm interested to see though what motherboard Zepp is going to use.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Been quite a while since I posted


Nice Build! When you use your drain port, does the radiator has some water left on it? I see that the radiator port where you have the drain is half height of the radiator. Do you lift the case in a certain way to get le left over water out? Im planning on do the same if it does not gives problems.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Nice Build! When you use your drain port, does the radiator has some water left on it? I see that the radiator port where you have the drain is half height of the radiator. Do you lift the case in a certain way to get le left over water out? Im planning on do the same if it does not gives problems.


If you tilt the case a bit you can get most of the liquid out with the drain like that. All you really need is to get it drained enough so that when you place it level and start removing tubes you don't get leakage all over the place.

Here's another example of a drain on a horizontally mounted bottom rad. This time it's an Alphacool rad that has ports on the top and bottom and sides, so with it in push pull the 25mm fans on the bottom provides just enough room with the right 90 degree fitting to have a drain coming from a bottom-facing port to make completely draining the loop easy, like so.


----------



## stickg1

In the couple of loop configs I've had, I've found it's near impossible to completely drain the loop of coolant. Some always gets stuck somewhere. As long as you can get it 90% empty and undo some tubing and remove components I consider it a success.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Also, most importantly, the Monoblock only comes Nickel Plated for some reason. I've gone outta my way not to have any Nickel blocks outta paranoia. All my blocks are Copper/Plexi =)


Not true... The first picture I saw of the monoblock was one with a copper block. The center plate that makes up the CPU block is actually sheet metal, and has the appearance of nickel plating in the pictures you see, but it actually has a dull unfinished silver surface... If you're intent on going with the copper block look, you can do what I did to mine, but use an ultra thin sheet of copper. They sell it at most art supply stores... Come to think of it, that would look mighty nice.

Notice in this picture how the north and south blocks are copper, but not the center block. That's because all of the copper blocks are below the level of that center plate. Although theoretically, you should be able to see the copper block of the GPU through the acrylic, but for some reason it doesn't appear.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that was just a mockup when they announced it. Only Nickel Plated versions are available


----------



## ProfeZZor X

^ Well I'll be damned... you're right. *checked EKWB website*.

You can still do the same treatment as I did with mine though... But with copper. Sure it'll have nickel water channels, but it'll certainly stand out more than mine. Talk about your "bling" factor.

Then there's the option of contacting EK directly to see if they'd leave out the plating process and sell you a one off. Whatever the case may be, it'll save you all the trouble of having so many fittings.


----------



## kpoeticg

I agree with everything you're saying, but i'd be wasting the blocks i already bought along with like $600 or more in fittings just to buy another block and modify it because it's nickel lol

If the Mono was announced before i bought everything i "MIGHT'VE" went with it. I'm past it tho. I've already invested too much in this loop









Edit: In other news, i finally got my 3rd 35x again after i shorted out my other one. Just finished assembling this beast for the 2nd time. Hopefully i won't break any of the pumps this time loll


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I've always liked that 3 pump setup and XSPC top, but it would clutter up my current build. Maybe next time.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*


Why do you have a G 1/4 Plug on the drain port? Its not supposed to stop the water with the valve? I bought the same bitfenix mini valve black, but it was not on my plan to have a G1/4 where the water drains. Its just a safety measure?


----------



## kpoeticg

I know some1 that asked EK if they'd make a copper version of the Monoblock. No dice.

EK constantly has tons of people waiting for them to release blocks for their particular hardware, they don't have time or the manpower to do custom orders











> Why do you have a G 1/4 Plug on the drain port? Its not supposed to stop the water with the valve? I bought the same bitfenix mini valve black, but it was not on my plan to have a G1/4 where the water drains. Its just a safety measure?


I keep a plug in my Mini-Valve too. I've never had anything leak out of it, i HAVE accidentally left the valve open and never even realized it cuz i luckily had the stop plug there









No reason not to put one.... =)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Why do you have a G 1/4 Plug on the drain port? Its not supposed to stop the water with the valve? I bought the same bitfenix mini valve black, but it was not on my plan to have a G1/4 where the water drains. Its just a safety measure?


Why wouldn't I want to keep a plug in the mini valve? It affords me a bit of extra peace of mind that it won't leak out whether from the valve handle being bumped or just the valve deciding it wants to leak for whatever the reason. When I want to drain I unscrew the plug and screw in a barb fitting with a short piece of hose so I can aim the flow to a bucket or bottle, then I crack open a fill port to let air in & open the valve, and the loop drains quickly & completely.


----------



## stebbiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I know some1 that asked EK if they'd make a copper version of the Monoblock. No dice.


A shame too... I was wanting a nice shiny copper version similar to the one on their FB page.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What motherboard are you using because that doesn't sound like it would work?


Probably a Z97 Gryphon, using the 7990's with the single slot I/O bracket EK sells to go along with their card.


----------



## MrBlunt

lol.. i have a plug in mine too







can't be too safe!! Dont forget to pull out!!


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Why wouldn't I want to keep a plug in the mini valve? It affords me a bit of extra peace of mind that it won't leak out whether from the valve handle being bumped or just the valve deciding it wants to leak for whatever the reason. When I want to drain I unscrew the plug and screw in a barb fitting with a short piece of hose so I can aim the flow to a bucket or bottle, then I crack open a fill port to let air in & open the valve, and the loop drains quickly & completely.


I do the same.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I agree with everything you're saying, but i'd be wasting the blocks i already bought along with like $600 or more in fittings just to buy another block and modify it because it's nickel lol
> 
> If the Mono was announced before i bought everything i "MIGHT'VE" went with it. I'm past it tho. I've already invested too much in this loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: In other news, i finally got my 3rd 35x again after i shorted out my other one. Just finished assembling this beast for the 2nd time. Hopefully i won't break any of the pumps this time loll
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


AAAND that's exactly why you dont need to worry about flow with all those 90°s... looks great!
And I can relate, everything I use in my system is copper+plexi/acrylic. I ditched the flexible tubing and got some cheap, easy-to-work-with acrylic tubing on the same size as E22 to keep plasticizing issues at bay. The acrylic I got is not as good looking as the real E22 stuff, but I can manage, also makes working with it a breeze and was about 5$ the meter for 4 meters and served as an amazingly easy-to-use test material. I think I'm almost ready to spend some on PerformancePC's and ship some E22 down here...


----------



## kpoeticg

Mcmaster sells affordable, quality acrylic tubing. Only problem is it doesn't come in metric, so no BP.

I use E22 from PPC. THIS is a little cheaper if you wanna save a few bucks on 12mm


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Been quite a while since I posted here so here's my newly completed build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FINAL PICS!!


I had to bump this to the next page.

Youve perfected this machine. Props!


----------



## Slider46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I had to bump this to the next page.
> Youve perfected this machine. Props!


It's not perfect but thanks!


----------



## jpetrach

I would love to have a mono block. Anyone have an idea if vi gene is getting one?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Probably a Z97 Gryphon, using the 7990's with the single slot I/O bracket EK sells to go along with their card.


If two of the cards are going to occupy the bottom slots, that isn't going to work. There won't be room to attach fittings to route your tubing between them and I don't think I've seen a bridge that is capable of handling that configuration either.


----------



## everclearhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Been quite a while since I posted here so here's my newly completed build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FINAL PICS!!


Extremely clean build Slider, that looks awesome


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If two of the cards are going to occupy the bottom slots, that isn't going to work. There won't be room to attach fittings to route your tubing between them and I don't think I've seen a bridge that is capable of handling that configuration either.


I wouldn't do a solid bridge as I've never like the look of them whatsoever. I won't jump into three cards right away as it'd be enormously expensive, but as I work on the rig I'll figure out a way to smash three Radeon 7990's with blocks on them into the rig







and who ever said the tubing had to be between the closest two cards?









-Zepp


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I wouldn't do a solid bridge as I've never like the look of them whatsoever. I won't jump into three cards right away as it'd be enormously expensive, but as I work on the rig I'll figure out a way to smash three Radeon 7990's with blocks on them into the rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and who ever said the tubing had to be between the closest two cards?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Well, if you're not going to use tubing then you need to use at least some kind of a bridge fitting or adapter. If you don't then it's most certainly going to leak. I should have been more clear when I mentioned having fittings and tubing between the cards, you do need some kind of fitting though to bridge them at least. I just don't see how you're going to have room to do that.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Well, if you're not going to use tubing then you need to use at least some kind of a bridge fitting or adapter. If you don't then it's most certainly going to leak. I should have been more clear when I mentioned having fittings and tubing between the cards, you do need some kind of fitting though to bridge them at least. I just don't see how you're going to have room to do that.


I can try to make a Sketchup model and screenshot it to show you what I mean







I'm heading to this pretty big Corvette show on the University of Illinois campus right now, so I've got pictures to take and cars to drool over









-Zepp


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Fourth of July is almost here... Celebrate the birthday of America with your friends, family and loved ones and wish them a Happy Fourth of July by barbequing, watching fireworks, and sharing our new product releases and discount coupons. From all of us here at Performance-PCs.com we hope you have a safe and enjoyable Independence Day Holiday.
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend $50-$350, get 6% off: "4JULY14-7"
> Spend $350-$1000, get 8% off: "4JULY14-8"
> Spend over $1000, get 10% off: "4JULY14-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from June 27th through July 6th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*


Nice geggeg. Just asked FZCPU if they will run special codes and yes they will. So, soon we should have codes for FZCPU too. Since I am going to place a big order that would perhaps save me 100 bucks...


----------



## MrBlunt

the code for 10% is usually "OCN" at fzpu


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> the code for 10% is usually "OCN" at fzpu


5.1% and that is always there. I think Gabriel was referring to special codes higher than that.


----------



## Gabrielzm

This ^^ Yep. Special holiday codes that should be above the 5.1%.


----------



## MrGrievous

Been waiting on those holiday codes to drop lol now I just need to make my mind up on which case to get for my first loop/build


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Been waiting on those holiday codes to drop lol now I just need to make my mind up on which case to get for my first loop/build


What size/form factor you want? If you don't want to drop a lot of money in a caselabs case then check out the Phanteks line. Really good cases and water cooling friendly.


----------



## MrGrievous

I actually am fighting between the Primo and the Luxe lol and how 140 rads I need to cool a overclocked 4690k and oc sli 780's but not many use 140 so Im at a lost lol. been digging through old threads asking how many rads they need, I'm sure 5 140mm rads will do me using the Phanteks 140mm fan.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I actually am fighting between the Primo and the Luxe lol and how 140 rads I need to cool a overclocked 4690k and oc sli 780's but not many use 140 so Im at a lost lol. been digging through old threads asking how many rads they need, I'm sure 5 140mm rads will do me using the Phanteks 140mm fan.


Primo can easily run 3x140mm x45 mm top in push pull and 60 or 80 mm rad bottom (280 mm) + either 1 or 2 240 mm x 30 mm front and side. So a lot of rad space...


----------



## MrGrievous

I know the Primo would be a great choice and allow for even more rads to added if so desired and I would probably fit dual 420mm rads in it too but If I go with the Luxe I can save at least $250 or so and not to mention that the Primo would weigh a lot more.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Fourth of July is almost here... Celebrate the birthday of America with your friends, family and loved ones and wish them a Happy Fourth of July by barbequing, watching fireworks, and sharing our new product releases and discount coupons. From all of us here at Performance-PCs.com we hope you have a safe and enjoyable Independence Day Holiday.
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend $50-$350, get 6% off: "4JULY14-7"
> Spend $350-$1000, get 8% off: "4JULY14-8"
> Spend over $1000, get 10% off: "4JULY14-10"


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I know the Primo would be a great choice and allow for even more rads to added if so desired and I would probably fit dual 420mm rads in it too but If I go with the Luxe I can save at least $250 or so and not to mention that the Primo would weigh a lot more.


Since it was first released less than a year ago the Enthoo Primo retails for $240 ($250 for the white version) and has been on sale quite a bit for $220 or so, and twice has been under $200 if you incl a rebate. So, even if the Luxe were free I don't know how you'd be saving "_at least $250_" over the full price for the Primo, but AFAIK the Luxe has not yet been released so there is no known price set for for it yet. It's a safe bet that it will cost more than the Enthoo Pro, which retails for $100 for a window version ($90 w/o window) and less than the Primo, so I'd assume it's going to msrp for about $150 or thereabouts.

I'm not even sure what the rad capabilities will be for the Luxe. I'd assume it's going to be very similar to the Pro since they are almost identical in size (the Luxe is only a tiny bit larger) and the Pro would be a tight fit for 5*140 of rad. It can fit it, but it would cost you both the top 5.25" bay and the bottom HDD cage. Also, the Pro will only accept a 30mm thick rad in only push or pull up top. There's no room for push-pull and a 45mm rad is too thick. Perhaps the Luxe will have a little more room up top? I dunno. Perhaps a little.



Edit:
Oh, btw, the Primo can't fit "dual 420mm rads" unless you want to seriously mod the case by removing the panel with the Phanteks logo plate and sides of the 5.25" bays with the latches. As far as 140mm series rads go it will fit a 420 up top and a 280 in the bottom. If you were going with 120mm series rads it can fit a 480 up top and in the bottom, as long as the one in the bottom is max width 125mm. For example, a 124mm wide Alphacool 360/480 will just barely fit the space behind that panel, but a 133mm wide Hardwarelabs 360/480 (and many other 360/480 rads) will not.


----------



## bagezuhesre

good mode,a little homemade deal that does the job...could be better ,thanks


----------



## nepToon

Amazing build slider!

What is the reason behind installing a drainport on the pump exit?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

For Alphacool rad owners,Namron @ Specialtech did a great review of the kit in action.

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4944-Mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-kit!!!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For Alphacool rad owners,Namron @ Specialtech did a great review of the kit in action.
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4944-Mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-kit!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What a great piece of reviewing that Blitz write up by Namron is








Thanks for the link B

In other news....

Is the Bitspower Dual D5 top a Flow Monster









About to find out when I put a flow meter onto the test set up.

With a Differential Pressure of 28 kPa OR 4.05 PSI (with 1/2 x 3/4 " tube), I wonder what the flow will be


----------



## ds84

Would it be wise to connect res to pump top via this? I believe most of us here would agree that straight run is better then going into pump top with bents.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29039


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Would it be wise to connect res to pump top via this? I believe most of us here would agree that straight run is better then going into pump top with bents.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29039


Hey ds84,
If you're referring to the Flow Monster....(which by the way I am now calling the set up as the flow rate is done - see below)
Yes you do want your inlet with directly above the pump








Always try to avoid the alternate inlet on pump tops or angle fittings where ever possible - even the fitting you linked will a have a negative impact.

On the Flow Monster the pump inlet is directly below the res and connected by a male/male G 1/4 adapter.

I'm using the alternate inlet and out ports for the Differential Pressure gauge









The red 1/2 x 3/4" tube is pump out after the tap and into res top.
The orange 3/8 x 5/8 tubing is for the differential pressure gauge.



and the flow results are in.....
I don't have raw flow data with 1/2 x 3/4 tube to compare - as I tested raw flow rate with 3/8 x 5/8 tube.
So I can't give data on how much flow the meter actually restricts.

13.7 lpm @ 33.75 kPa
OR
3.62 gpm @ 4.9 psi

I called the DP reading 13.75 - it's a judgement call








The flow peaks at 14.0 lpm occasional but I decided to just call it 13.7 lpm.
I have tested this flow meter for calibration previously and was relatively accurate.

which means that the Koolance flow meter added 0.85 psi in the exact same 1/2 x 3/4" loop









If the flow is 13.7 (ish) now it sparks the curiosity as to what the raw flow is / was, but that's not for me to do (my loop will be 3/8 ID hard line)
so on with the testing.
If you're interested in following my flow tests, check out my Salive8 build log - link below.
I've invited other testers and tinkerers to join in and post some results
Or if you want me to try some thing, I'm taking requests too.
The set-up is easy to reconfigure and I have quite a large inventory (starting to age though - not much really new stuff) so you never know I might just have it.



*EDIT* - It was an after though that I should add some additional info about the Koolance Flow Meter used.
Above I said that the unit was relatively accurate with it's calibration.
BUT that was tested with 3/8 x 5/8 tubing.
It was when I put the Aqua Computer Flow Sensor on for testing that the penny dropped about the calibration and tubing size difference.

Additionally - I ahve two of these Koolance Flow Meters.
This one tested with here was accurate with the 3/8 ID tubing.
The other was reading at least 1 lpm difference.
So there is a question mark about these flow meters in my mind.
Better that the competition in terms of flow restriction, but hit and miss on the calibration


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For Alphacool rad owners,Namron @ Specialtech did a great review of the kit in action.
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4944-Mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-kit!!!


Thanks for sharing, B Neg! Adding it to my FCPU shopping cart as we speak...


----------



## ds84

But i cant really hav straight down as my front monsta 240mm will b blocking it... so, my best bet is to offset with some distance.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> But i cant really hav straight down as my front monsta 240mm will b blocking it... so, my best bet is to offset with some distance.


It is rare that we get to do everything using the best case scenario.
I believe that the fitting you linked will perform better for both flow loss and pressure restriction than a hard right 90 degree.
So if it's the best option for your circumstance - go for it








*EDIT* - yes if you use a straight fitting and use a length of tube that will be best performance option than an angled or elbow fitting.
BUT I know that aesthetics is an important part of pretty much everyone here so sometimes we cut our performance loss for how much better it looks - I do it, I'm sure we all do it









I just edited my previous post and updated what I said about the Koolance flow meter.
Basically when I tested it's calibration it was done with 3/8 x 5/8 tubing, so the flow reading may not be as accurate as it indicates with the 1/2 x 3/4" tubing currently on the set up.

I also calibrated an Aqua Computer Flow Sensor the other day with 3/8 x 5/8 tubing.
and it was when I put this on the Flow Monster it made me think harder about the Koolance one.

The 2 were reading quite similar flows with the 3/8 x 5/8 tube.
But are quite different with the 1/2 x 3/4.

Anyways, I whacked the Aqua Computer Flow Sensor on the Flow Monster.
More to confirm that it is more restrictive that the Koolance one as tested a few days ago.

So both flow reading could be out, 1 might be correct, I don't know.

Aqua Computer flow (not calibrated for 1/2 x 3/4) Vs Koolance flow reading.
Both were reading the same and accurate compared with manual timed flow test done with 3/8 x 5/8 tubing,
and notice the Koolance DP reading again compared to the AC below

 

What I do know is the the Aqua Computer Flow Sensor is _far_ more restrictive.

With neither flow meter the DP was 4.05 psi

With the Koolance Flow Meter the DP was 4.9 psi (added 0.85 psi to the loop)

With the Aqua Computer Flow Sensor the DP was 5.58 psi (added 1.53 psi to the loop)



*EDIT* - having such a high flow rate of this virtually O restriction loop does exaggerate the pressure difference of the 2 flow meters,
BUT...
It does show that one is more restrictive than the other


----------



## sdcalihusker

Updated my loop. Credit to B-Neg for this thread, and the pipe-bending thread that inspired me to try it!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im glad it was a help to you,looks great!


----------



## fast_fate

I wanted to chart a pump Pressure Vs flow rate curve for the Flow Monster with 3/8 x 5/8 but my DP gauge ran out of scale








It didn't take long to discover that either









After I'ld put the 3/8 x 5/8 tubing back on and was starting with a 3 gpm flow rate.
I placed a board between the Flow Monster and the Power House (just in case) took a few deep breaths and started dialing up the pressure.
I only got wound back to 2 gpm when the gauge topped out at it's 50 kPa range limit.
I kept winding anyway (all the way down to 0.5 gpm) to see if she was going to hold the pressure, and it did









So the 50 kPa gauge limit = 7.25 psi

2 gpm with DP @ 7.25 psi










So not worth charting 'til I get a different gauge








Maybe for fun I'll put the 1/2 x 3/4 tube back on and chart that - I think I should get that in the gauge range








Just have to calibrate the Aqua Computer flow meter first for the tube size.

*EDIT* - Just checked Martins chart for series pumps again.
He was using 1/2 x 3/4 gear and my gauge certainly won't make it








Seems like this gauge is just for single pump tests only








On a positive, my 3/8 x 5/8 result seems OK in relation to his 1/2 x 3/4" result at the 2 gpm mark.
and at 3 gpm I had 6.15 psi DP

Martin's Chart


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Amazing build slider!
> 
> What is the reason behind installing a drainport on the pump exit?


Yeah, I'm not getting that one either... Still, it's an amazing build. I love the layout of the cables and how they parallel with the acrylic.


----------



## MrGrievous

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Since it was first released less than a year ago the Enthoo Primo retails for $240 ($250 for the white version) and has been on sale quite a bit for $220 or so, and twice has been under $200 if you incl a rebate. So, even if the Luxe were free I don't know how you'd be saving "_at least $250_" over the full price for the Primo, but AFAIK the Luxe has not yet been released so there is no known price set for for it yet. It's a safe bet that it will cost more than the Enthoo Pro, which retails for $100 for a window version ($90 w/o window) and less than the Primo, so I'd assume it's going to msrp for about $150 or thereabouts.
> 
> I'm not even sure what the rad capabilities will be for the Luxe. I'd assume it's going to be very similar to the Pro since they are almost identical in size (the Luxe is only a tiny bit larger) and the Pro would be a tight fit for 5*140 of rad. It can fit it, but it would cost you both the top 5.25" bay and the bottom HDD cage. Also, the Pro will only accept a 30mm thick rad in only push or pull up top. There's no room for push-pull and a 45mm rad is too thick. Perhaps the Luxe will have a little more room up top? I dunno. Perhaps a little.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Oh, btw, the Primo can't fit "dual 420mm rads" unless you want to seriously mod the case by removing the panel with the Phanteks logo plate and sides of the 5.25" bays with the latches. As far as 140mm series rads go it will fit a 420 up top and a 280 in the bottom. If you were going with 120mm series rads it can fit a 480 up top and in the bottom, as long as the one in the bottom is max width 125mm. For example, a 124mm wide Alphacool 360/480 will just barely fit the space behind that panel, but a 133mm wide Hardwarelabs 360/480 (and many other 360/480 rads) will not.






Well the reason I said 250 was a rough estimate with added watercooling gera needed to do the Primo the way I would it to be and to make a 420 fit on the floor I am not shy about modding at all. I do not need any HDD cages as of this time and lastly I dont even need the optical drives either to just clear that up and the Luxe will retail for $139 according to the CES video that HardwareKunucks made.

Edit going back through eveything it would actuall be only $128 in cases and gear


----------



## ds84

Is the BP G1/4" to 3/8" 5/8" 60 degrees rotary fitting a new item from BP? Seems to be listed under PPCs on 25 June 2014. But i cant find it in BP website...

BP-MB60R2CPF-CC3V2

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41153


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Almost to 70,000 Posts


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just ordered a few new fittings and flushing the other 240 that will be going into the Frankenstein. .


----------



## Remizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Been quite a while since I posted here so here's my newly completed build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FINAL PICS!!


Very nice!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Almost to 70,000 Posts


Mostly opinions, technobabble, and visual pron... I wouldn't have it any other way.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It is rare that we get to do everything using the best case scenario.
> I believe that the fitting you linked will perform better for both flow loss and pressure restriction than a hard right 90 degree.
> So if it's the best option for your circumstance - go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT* - yes if you use a straight fitting and use a length of tube that will be best performance option than an angled or elbow fitting.
> BUT I know that aesthetics is an important part of pretty much everyone here so sometimes we cut our performance loss for how much better it looks - I do it, I'm sure we all do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just edited my previous post and updated what I said about the Koolance flow meter.
> Basically when I tested it's calibration it was done with 3/8 x 5/8 tubing, so the flow reading may not be as accurate as it indicates with the 1/2 x 3/4" tubing currently on the set up.
> 
> I also calibrated an Aqua Computer Flow Sensor the other day with 3/8 x 5/8 tubing.
> and it was when I put this on the Flow Monster it made me think harder about the Koolance one.
> 
> The 2 were reading quite similar flows with the 3/8 x 5/8 tube.
> But are quite different with the 1/2 x 3/4.
> 
> Anyways, I whacked the Aqua Computer Flow Sensor on the Flow Monster.
> More to confirm that it is more restrictive that the Koolance one as tested a few days ago.
> 
> So both flow reading could be out, 1 might be correct, I don't know.
> 
> Aqua Computer flow (not calibrated for 1/2 x 3/4) Vs Koolance flow reading.
> Both were reading the same and accurate compared with manual timed flow test done with 3/8 x 5/8 tubing,
> and notice the Koolance DP reading again compared to the AC below
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do know is the the Aqua Computer Flow Sensor is _far_ more restrictive.
> 
> With neither flow meter the DP was 4.05 psi
> 
> With the Koolance Flow Meter the DP was 4.9 psi (added 0.85 psi to the loop)
> 
> With the Aqua Computer Flow Sensor the DP was 5.58 psi (added 1.53 psi to the loop)
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT* - having such a high flow rate of this virtually O restriction loop does exaggerate the pressure difference of the 2 flow meters,
> BUT...
> It does show that one is more restrictive than the other


Great to see some testing being done ... especially by a fellow Aussie.

The results are interesting for sure. I really expected the Koolance meters to be the more restrictive.
As you note though at the flow rates being used the figures are interesting but they still represent significantly less restriction a water block.

I notice though that you seem to be reading significantly less restriction than Martin did in his testing of the Aquacomp meter? Any thoughts on why that might be?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ah well...its over.

Final pics up.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-finished-always-a-sad-time-when-its-over/0_20







Got a InWin Dframe MINI on its way tho so I wont be Idle long.


----------



## Slider46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Amazing build slider!
> 
> What is the reason behind installing a drainport on the pump exit?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Yeah, I'm not getting that one either... Still, it's an amazing build. I love the layout of the cables and how they parallel with the acrylic.


Thanks!

I originally had another valve on the second pump output and wanted to be able to close off the loop, open the second valve and have the pump push the coolant out of the loop when draining. Didn't really work that well because I forgot about air needing to enter the loop to displace the coolant. I would have to put an air intake valve just after that vertical ball valve to get it to work. For now I just moved the second ball valve to the bottom radiator for draining purposes and put an air intake valve at the top radiator.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I originally had another valve on the second pump output and wanted to be able to close off the loop, open the second valve and have the pump push the coolant out of the loop when draining. Didn't really work that well because I forgot about air needing to enter the loop to displace the coolant. I would have to put an air intake valve just after that vertical ball valve to get it to work. For now I just moved the second ball valve to the bottom radiator for draining purposes and put an air intake valve at the top radiator.


I see where you were going with that idea. It would have been impossible to do it on my build in the cramped space I had to work with, but after thoroughly looking at your loop, I completely understand what you were trying to achieve. However, allowing your pump to consume air is a very dangerous thing to do, and a recipe for disaster.


----------



## bigc9164

-i5 4670k - 4.5ghz
-Gigabyte UD4H
-Asus gtx 760
-8gb Gskill Sniper 1866mhz
-CORSAIR RM850 GOLD - Bitfenix Alchemy Cable Extensions WHITE
-Samsung EVO 120 SSD BOOT DRIVE
-WD 2.5" 500gb HDD STORAGE DRIVE
-Kingston V300 SSD GAMING DRIVE

-Corsair 750 D
-Corsair SP120 Fans
-NZXT Sentury 3 Fan Controller
-NZXT LED 2m cable kit
-Bitfenix LED HUB (17LEDs Wired)

-XSPC D5 Variable speed
-EK D5 X Pump Top
-XSPC Raystorm CPU block
-Swiftech 240 Radiator
-EK RES X3 150ml
-XSPC compression fittings
-EK 45 rotary fittings
-Bitfenix Visual Flow Indicator
-Primochill ADVANCE LRT Clear 1/2 - 3/4
-MAYHEMS Pastel White UV

http://s703.photobucket.com/user/bigc9164/media/IMG_20140628_161154_zps3b9ec22c.jpg.html
http://s703.photobucket.com/user/bigc9164/media/IMG_20140628_161209_zps8df70e1c.jpg.html
http://s703.photobucket.com/user/bigc9164/media/IMG_20140628_161224_zpsad1fa7a6.jpg.html


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I originally had another valve on the second pump output and wanted to be able to close off the loop, open the second valve and have the pump push the coolant out of the loop when draining. Didn't really work that well because I forgot about air needing to enter the loop to displace the coolant. I would have to put an air intake valve just after that vertical ball valve to get it to work. For now I just moved the second ball valve to the bottom radiator for draining purposes and put an air intake valve at the top radiator.


Wait what? You wanted to feed your pump air? That will break your pump. Not sure if I understand


----------



## Slider46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Wait what? You wanted to feed your pump air? That will break your pump. Not sure if I understand


Not trying to feed the pump air (even if I did, that wouldn't break the pump right away, maybe over the course of a few hours).

What I envisioned was being able to switch the output of the pump from the loop to a drain tube. Note the two outlets on the pump top - one goes up (through the loop). The other outlet I had a ball valve on and attached a drain tube.

The idea was to switch the loop valve closed, open the drain valve, thus directing all the flow of the pump out of the drain tube. The reason this doesn't work is because there is no way for air to get into the loop to take the place of the coolant as it drains. You can see this same thing happen if you dip a straw into a liquid and put your finger over the top. If you then pull the straw out, the liquid stays in because air cannot get in to displace the coolant. If you remove your finger, air enters the top and allows the liquid to flow out the bottom.

For this to work on my loop, I would have to have an air inlet valve just *after* the ball valve (pump > ball valve > air inlet > rest of loop). This way air can enter behind all the coolant in the loop and the pump should then siphon all the coolant out through the drain. I don't know if all of the coolant would actually siphon off or not but I have no way to test it right now. I'd have to install an air intake above the loop valve which would require buying more fittings and cutting the hardline down to fit.

Hope that helps


----------



## psycho84

First Time with Acrylic Tubing. Not perfect but ok i think









Better Pics maybe tomorrow ^^


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> First Time with Acrylic Tubing. Not perfect but ok i think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better Pics maybe tomorrow ^^
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Super clean build dude, like it a lot


----------



## kimoswabi

It's been over 6months since my last build so I decided to swap out my IceDragon coolant to Mayhems Purple while I contemplate and start thinking about my next mini-ITX build.
More pics will be posted on my completed S3 build log shortly.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1437774/build-log-inspiration-caselabs-s3-mini-itx-acrylics-watercooled-project/0_30


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*


Dear Lord that is gorgeous.


----------



## Ragsters

Definitely want to use purple on my next build.


----------



## sdcalihusker

Psycho84, I like! Is that Mayhems pastel red or something else?


----------



## psycho84

Jep. Pastel Red


----------



## JLMS2010

Hello all. Quick question. Does anybody know what size o rings are in the EK D5 Dual pump top. There are 3 o rings. It was brand new and I traced the leak to a crushed o ring. Anybody know the sizes?

Nevermind I found it. Not sure if this helps anybody buy I found an EK O Ring chart.

*Here* it is.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Hello all. Quick question. Does anybody know what size o rings are in the EK D5 Dual pump top. There are 3 o rings. It was brand new and I traced the leak to a crushed o ring. Anybody know the sizes?
> 
> Nevermind I found it. Not sure if this helps anybody buy I found an EK O Ring chart.
> 
> *Here* it is.


Wow..eee quick quick ADHD mind, why ask when, bam bam ya got the answer...SLOW down eat more adderall..LOL


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Definitely want to use purple on my next build.


There's just something regal about that color.


----------



## derickwm

I wanted to use purple and orange in Aldri but people laughed


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I wanted to use purple and orange in Aldri but people laughed


And well they should have . . . .









D.


----------



## derickwm

Come on now, it doesn't look that bad.










Credit to Xotik Kreations.


----------



## VSG

Dark coolant w/light colored background would be great. Orange/Black and purple? It's an acquired taste.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Come on now, it doesn't look _that _bad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Credit to Xotik Kreations.


----------



## Blackspots

Hmm, will these two work together?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21497/ex-tub-2078/EK_16mm_OD_Solid_Tube_Fitting_-_Male_-_Black_EK-HD_Adapter_1216mm_-_Black.html and http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10375/ex-tub-628/Bitspower_G14_Thread_45-Degree_Rotary_Adapter_-_Matte_Black_BP-MB45R.html


----------



## derickwm

Yes, all G1/4 threads.


----------



## Roxxas049

Ok I've just acquired a used mcp655 pump for my system, short of just throwing it in the middle of my loop and not having any extra water cooling

items outside of the ones in my computer, how would I leak test out this pump to see if it needs a new o-ring etc....??


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes, all G1/4 threads.


Ok, that's good. Though this is my wish list at FrozenCPU


And planned setup (I plan on doing as much bending where necessary):


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> It's been over 6months since my last build so I decided to swap out my IceDragon coolant to Mayhems Purple while I contemplate and start thinking about my next mini-ITX build.
> More pics will be posted on my completed S3 build log shortly.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1437774/build-log-inspiration-caselabs-s3-mini-itx-acrylics-watercooled-project/0_30
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


glad I had picked up some purple Mayhems dye when I ordered those fittings last night


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Dear Lord that is gorgeous.










Thanks man!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Definitely want to use purple on my next build.


The purple looks even better in person than in the pictures.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> glad I had picked up some purple Mayhems dye when I ordered those fittings last night


The purple dye is very potent so be sure to go easy with them. I have 3 drops of purple in my system.
Post pics when you're done!


----------



## Pheozero

Mmmm, purple. We have a serious lack of purple themed builds around here. Which is why I brought these


----------



## Shadowline2553

Well I got my Monsoon Res and Swiftech MCP 655 PWM-Drive Pump, EVGA GTX-780 Backplates, and some lighting... now to wait till I can get my blocks, Rad, and more coolant and tubing.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Mmmm, purple. We have a serious lack of purple themed builds around here. Which is why I brought these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















It's a revolution. Purple is the new black! Speaking of which, do you have a build log?


----------



## Pheozero

Not yet, I'm waiting for Haswell-E to release before I do anything.


----------



## SundayR1D3R

http://abload.de/image.php?img=dscf52882ucqu1.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=dscf5212eesnm.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=dscf5206j0s12.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=dscf5312-kopieigjdu.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=dscf5214-kopiei9ztw.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=dscf5217ets4t.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=dscf51618rrg2.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=dscf5269lescp.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=cm690ii4kpds.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_0613egkp7.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=dscf5443hvjt6.jpg


----------



## stanneveld

Stripping it down now the 4xGTX570 goes in a Air540 + Rampage 3 + i7 920 + 4x180 rad on the outse
Building a new one in a Lian Li PC-d600

Work in progress.I7 4970K, 2 R9 290X



Tomorrow my EK CSQ 290x blocks, Alphacool 420 UT60, Primochil Advanced LRT, is comming
Still have 2 Ek Supreme HF no need a CSQ for that...


----------



## psycho84

Some better Pics


----------



## DreadManD

Hey guys the MOTM voting is now live. Check it out and vote for your favorite build.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some better Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I see you used a standard flex tube + fitting along with all that acrylic. Doesen't it defeat the idea of durability of the acrylic? You might not have the plasticizer issues people were having some time ago, but I doubt you'll spend too long without that tube yellowing. Just my thoughts, though.
I understand there might be a very complicated and cramped space down there to make decent bends with acrylic.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Hot on the heels of Bittech MOTM.,...
I got in Forbes!
http://www.forbes.com/sites/antonyleather/2014/06/30/the-3-most-incredible-pcs-of-june-2014/


----------



## MrBlunt

Congrats B neg.. i saw it on facebook.. FORBES.. WHAAAATT?! lol


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> I see you used a standard flex tube + fitting along with all that acrylic. Doesen't it defeat the idea of durability of the acrylic? You might not have the plasticizer issues people were having some time ago, but I doubt you'll spend too long without that tube yellowing. Just my thoughts, though.
> I understand there might be a very complicated and cramped space down there to make decent bends with acrylic.


The normal Tube will be replaced when i finished my selfmade Midplate. Because i don't know where the pass through will sit without the Midplate


----------



## Shadowline2553

What would you guys use to clean out a rad prior to use?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> What would you guys use to clean out a rad prior to use?


Take a look at inside from the ports. If they seem clean (XSPC or Hardware Labs rads for example), flushing with distilled water is usually enough. On the other hand, if your coolant is pH sensitive and you have Alphacool/Phobya rads that seem dirty then Mayhems has a dedicated Blitz cleaning kit. For everything in between, people have used hot water + distilled and vinegar/water + distilled.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> What would you guys use to clean out a rad prior to use?


Usually just warm water, shake inside the rad a little bit and discard. Do that several times. You can also hook the rad to the tap and let it run through the rad for a while preferably with warm/hot water and changing in and out during the processes (reversing the flow). If using tap water don't forget to use distil latter to get rid of the tap water inside the rad (flushing it a couple of times). Some use the pond pump/filter method too. I used both in my current rig to clear the dirty OCool rads. First tap water and latter pond/filter for several hours. You can read some of it here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/

Notice that Mayhens just ship a cleaning kit and it was reviewed recently by Nanrom in the specialtech forum and linked here by B-neg a couple of pages back:

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/69830#post_22487376

hope it helps.










BTW - Nice review as always Nanrom. Hope you are doing well mate


----------



## gdubc

Congrats to Malik for that Forbes nod along with B-neg. Great job guys, you are an inspiration to us all!


----------



## Jeronbernal

congrats guys


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SundayR1D3R*
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=cm690ii4kpds.jpg


Very nice there bud.


----------



## wermad

New toy


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New toy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was looking at that perticular one for the 2 in one dealeo, please post your experiences.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I was looking at that perticular one for the 2 in one dealeo, please post your experiences.


Will do









I mainly got it to test the EK controller (beta testing). Once i'm done, I may end up selling later on. I really don't have much use for it other then the testing I'm doing.

I'm eager to get it connected as I'm running only one pump and there's the notion I should be running two. We'll see


----------



## VSG

Are we taking under/over on the flow rate? I am going with 0.8 GPM.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New toy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you get a frequency adapter to go with it, one of these?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28876

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36035

The one with the integral display still has the output to connect to the Ascendacy . . That way you can calibrate the Asc to match the display.

While not exactly "lab grade", these things are plenty accurate enough for our purposes.

D.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New toy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you get a frequency adapter to go with it, one of these?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28876
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36035
> 
> The one with the integral display still has the output to connect to the Ascendacy . . That way you can calibrate the Asc to match the display.
> 
> While not exactly "lab grade", these things are plenty accurate enough for our purposes.
> 
> D.
Click to expand...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Did you get a frequency adapter to go with it, one of these?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28876
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36035
> 
> The one with the integral display still has the output to connect to the Ascendacy . . That way you can calibrate the Asc to match the display.
> 
> While not exactly "lab grade", these things are plenty accurate enough for our purposes.
> 
> D.


Got it and thanks again. DCB-FM01 display ordered and hopefully it gets here by the weekend. for now, gonna plumb the meter and play with the temp sensor


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Great to see some testing being done ... especially by a fellow Aussie.
> 
> The results are interesting for sure. I really expected the Koolance meters to be the more restrictive.
> As you note though at the flow rates being used the figures are interesting but they still represent significantly less restriction a water block.
> 
> I notice though that you seem to be reading significantly less restriction than Martin did in his testing of the Aquacomp meter? *Any thoughts on why that might be*?


Well, Yes probably to a certain degree.
I'm missing the accuracy in measuring the flow side of things.
and this didn't help either.......
The penny finally dropped,
I did raw flow rates on timed pump output runs and averaged them for the pump flow rate.
It was this flow rate that I calibrated the Aquaero to








At the time not bothering to think that this raw flow rate has no restriction what so ever.
Even in my short ultra low restriction loop there would be some restriction,
so my Aquaero flow sensor was not reading the correct flow rate ever because I calibrated it incorrectly.

*So because my flow rates were reading higher (wrongly calibrated flow meter) the pressure was reading lower (incorrectly)*

Which leads me to the question (which I'll post in the Aquaero club also)
How do people calibrate their Aquaero Flow Sensors ?s
I doubt most people have "proper" flow meters they can reference to for calibration purposes (not me yet







)
I doubt most people have access to differential pressure gauges or manometers.

I do have some DP gauges though








so to calibrate my Aquaero flow sensor - does the following make sense to you guys
















If I can locate a couple of different flow Vs pressure curves for any piece of hardware (that I have access to) which have curves very similar or hopefully identical (confirming the data)








and
If I adjust / restrict my flow using the tap to get the Differential Pressure to match a know (and confirmed) pressure point somewhere on the curve.
Then my thinking says that I can then calibrate the Aquaero Flow Sensor to match the flow rate to the confirmed hardware curves.

My thinking is that tubing size or any other variables done in the confirmed curves and my test set -up don't matter,
because it is a single point on a chart that is a reference point we are using not the curve in entirety.

Does that make any sense.
Or have I again overlooked something basic and stupid


----------



## VSG

Do you have the impeller style Aquaero flow meter? I thought those were supposed to be fine out of the box.


----------



## fast_fate

Yes, it's the High Flow

Reading Martins review...
variable such as tubing size do make a difference.
So I want to get mine right to match my system


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> What would you guys use to clean out a rad prior to use?


Just run hot water through with a tap, followed by a couple of flushes with distilled water.


----------



## ryanallan

I just installed a cheap flow meter into my build.
Nothing special, but it works.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> I just installed a cheap flow meter into my build.
> Nothing special, but it works.


I'm just curious... Is that flow indicator going to be visible in a window panel in the side door, or is it just for you to keep a monitor on your flow?


----------



## ryanallan

It's not visible with the door on.
I generally keep the door off though, so it's no big deal for me.
The wheel spins faster as the pump speeds up, so it's a nice tool for verification, but mostly for show.
Just don't like how loud it is.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> It's not visible with the door on.
> I generally keep the door off though, so it's no big deal for me.
> The wheel spins faster as the pump speeds up, so it's a nice tool for verification, but mostly for show.
> *Just don't like how loud it is*.


Agreed








Mine drove me nuts - loudest part of the system.
Could here it over fans even.
Did you put the little white spacers on the pin ?
Helps to keeps the wheel centralized and not _float_ from side to side and rub make contact with then sides.
They helped for mine, but was still noisy


----------



## ryanallan

I didn't get spacers in my packaging








And I would try another meter but I drilled my case to make this thing fit...
Hopefully they come out with a V2 or something to that effect, that would be my only saving grace here haha.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Agreed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine drove me nuts - loudest part of the system.
> Could here it over fans even.
> Did you put the little white spacers on the pin ?
> Helps to keeps the wheel centralized and not _float_ from side to side and rub make contact with then sides.
> They helped for mine, but was still noisy


Remember, I have *FIVE* of them inside my build, and I don't hear any of them rattling around. Maybe you had a faulty one... After I finished my loop back in March, and before I installed the new monoblock, I consistently had my loop running for at least 2 months for a number of hours each day, just to get use to it being turned on. And what I discovered was that none of those flow indicators made any noticeable noise. If so, it was very faint. And that's with the case just one foot away from where I sit with my current PC workstation... If anything, I can hear the low pitched hum of the pump over anything else in that build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> I didn't get spacers in my packaging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I would try another meter but I drilled my case to make this thing fit...
> Hopefully they come out with a V2 or something to that effect, that would be my only saving grace here haha.


I think he means those weird looking black nipples that are included inside the box. Each Primochill flow indicator box has a pair inside. At first I didn't know what they were for since there were no instructions, so I just left them inside the box. If your loop doesn't have a lot of turbulence, then the spinning wheel inside shouldn't shift much. That's the case with mine.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Remember, I have *FIVE* of them inside my build, and I don't hear any of them rattling around. Maybe you had a faulty one... After I finished my loop back in March, and before I installed the new monoblock, I consistently had my loop running for at least 2 months for a number of hours each day, just to get use to it being turned on. And what I discovered was that none of those flow indicators made any noticeable noise. If so, it was very faint. And that's with the case just one foot away from where I sit with my current PC workstation... In anything, I can hear the low pitched hum of the pump over anything else in that build.


Yeah I know, and it annoyed me even more that your five were quiet.
It was interesting that another user had same experience as me and I thought I'ld ask if he used the spacers.
They did help for me.
Now I'm just immune to it, although since the post I have noticed it again funnily enough

from about 2 1/2 minute mark


----------



## ryanallan

There was a thread a while back, a couple of us had the same issue, so I don't think it's an isolated issue.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1473370/rattling-noise-from-flow-indicator-primochill-vortex


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> *Yeah I know, and it annoyed me even more that your five were quiet.*
> It was interesting that another user had same experience as me and I thought I'ld ask if he used the spacers.
> They did help for me.
> Now I'm just immune to it, although since the post I have noticed it again funnily enough


Too funny... Yeah, I must have been lucky.


----------



## Shadowline2553

The reason I am asking is that my next order from Frozen CPU is topped out in terms of money... Any more items on the order will break the bank so to speak. So I need a cheap, but effective way to clean out the rad, an AlphaCool Nexxos Monsta 240.


----------



## wermad

1:10 of white vinegar & distilled water. Pour some in, seal, and shake. Drain the liquid, repeat if desired, then run through the hot tap. Final rinse with some plain distilled. White vinegar and distilled water are cheap to buy.


----------



## ds84

Any ideas on how to connect pump top to rad? My rad is Monsta 240mm, front mounted and my pump top is just beside it, around 50mm away from it. Thinking of ways to connect them together. Also thinking of inputting the drain valve at the rad, hence the difficulty in connecting. Using 750d


----------



## VSG

People should read this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1499274/eteknix-asetek-granted-patents-on-liquid-cooling-systems-for-gpus-in-the-usa/0_50


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Congrats to Malik for that Forbes nod along with B-neg. Great job guys, you are an inspiration to us all!


Defiinitely a hug Congrats to them both


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 1:10 of white vinegar & distilled water. Pour some in, seal, and shake. Drain the liquid, repeat if desired, then run through the hot tap. Final rinse with some plain distilled. White vinegar and distilled water are cheap to buy.


I do the same thing just with a hair dryer blowing on the rad to keep things hot.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> People should read this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1499274/eteknix-asetek-granted-patents-on-liquid-cooling-systems-for-gpus-in-the-usa/0_50


They did the same thing with AIO coolers and put the h220 from Swiftech out of the US market.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1411176/swiftech-com-swiftech-today-announced-the-withdrawal-from-us-sales-of-the-h220-cpu-cooling-kit

This is a dirty company (aseteek) and people should boycott those corsair AIO coolers since they came from Aseteek. They want monopoly enforced based on patents and to put the small enthusiasts companies out of US market. Sad really how things are going in US patent system.


----------



## gdubc

Sad to see asuetek back at that patent trolling. They are nothing but bad news for the enthusiast market.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> People should read this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1499274/eteknix-asetek-granted-patents-on-liquid-cooling-systems-for-gpus-in-the-usa/0_50


Im not surprised,they have a habit of doing this........Swiftech fell foul of this BS patent nonsense recently also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> People should read this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1499274/eteknix-asetek-granted-patents-on-liquid-cooling-systems-for-gpus-in-the-usa/0_50
> 
> 
> 
> They did the same thing with AIO coolers and put the h220 from Swiftech out of the US market.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1411176/swiftech-com-swiftech-today-announced-the-withdrawal-from-us-sales-of-the-h220-cpu-cooling-kit
> 
> This is a dirty company (aseteek) and *people should boycott those corsair AIO coolers since they came from Aseteek.* They want monopoly enforced based on patents and to put the small enthusiasts companies out of US market. Sad really how things are going in US patent system.
Click to expand...

A lot more than Corsair coolers comes from Asetek........


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not surprised,they have a habit of doing this........Swiftech fell foul of this BS patent nonsense recently also.
> A lot more than Corsair coolers comes from Asetek........


True B-neg. I was not through in my comment, it is just that Corsair coolers are quite common, perhaps not on this thread. BTW congratulations on the build making into Forbes. Is really nice to see builds from fellows on this thread making in to the midia.


----------



## Dortheleus

The thing I don't understand is how they are still in business. Cause let be real here, we're a community of computer geeks, we have lots of skills that could do lots of damage to companies that piss us off. Where is that line that's cross when we decide that no one will ever do business with someone?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> People should read this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1499274/eteknix-asetek-granted-patents-on-liquid-cooling-systems-for-gpus-in-the-usa/0_50
> 
> 
> 
> They did the same thing with AIO coolers and put the h220 from Swiftech out of the US market.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1411176/swiftech-com-swiftech-today-announced-the-withdrawal-from-us-sales-of-the-h220-cpu-cooling-kit
> 
> This is a dirty company (aseteek) and people should boycott those corsair AIO coolers since they came from Aseteek. They want monopoly enforced based on patents and to put the small enthusiasts companies out of US market. Sad really how things are going in US patent system.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> The thing I don't understand is how they are still in business. Cause let be real here, we're a community of computer geeks, we have lots of skills that could do lots of damage to companies that piss us off. Where is that line that's cross when we decide that no one will ever do business with someone?


Because OEM.

You dont know who makes what unless you dig.


----------



## KoolanceGamer

So its been about a year and half since I first posted my Caselabs Merlin build and a year since I've done any sort of update.

I just finished reassembling the entire build. I opened all the blocks and cleaned out every last nook and cranny.

I also removed the Bitspower RAM block and replaced it with an EK MOSFET block which ended up making a huge difference in terms of flow. I knew that RAM block would be restrictive but I didn't think it would be as bad as it was. Without it, the air moved through the loop at more than twice the speed compared to the last two times. I also know RAM blocks are completely unnecessary, but as I explained in my original post, it was for aesthetic purposes only.

I replaced my dud of a 4770k (4.1 max OC no matter the voltage) with a 4790k. Now before everyone jumps on me for this, I want to first say I was able to sell my 4770k $250 and my 2600k old $120. I just could not take being forced to run my CPU at stock when I have invested so much into my cooling system.

So far I have been able to get the 4790k to run at 4.7Ghz @ 2.26V with temps during normal use around 55-60c and in the low 70's with PRIME/Intel Burn/Intel Extreme tuning. I haven't done any tweaking in the Bios other than increasing the voltage and multiplier.

The only other recent update is the addition of the Samsung EVO 1TB SSD which replaced my old 1TB WD Black.

System Specs

4790k @ 4.7Ghz/1.26v
16GB Corsair Dominator GT @2133Mhz
x2 SLI EVGA GTX680 SuperClock @ 1240Mhz
Asus Maximus VI Hero / Z87
Corsair AX860i
Sound Blaster Recon3D
Corsair FORCE SSD 256GB
Samsung EVO 1TB SSD
Caselabs Merlin SM8

WaterCooling

Koolance PMP 450S
Koolance GTX 680 block x2
Koolance CPU 380i
Koolance Fittings (45, 90, 60)
Koolance Quick Disconnects (drainage)
EK Mosfet block
XSPC 480 / 240 rad
Bitspower Extensions (5mm through 25mm)


----------



## ozzy1925

guys i need help








today i received my 3x r290blocks from ek and i realised 2 of 3 blocks have small crack on the plexi where the metalpart comes .i try to take picture without removing the metal and circle it but its hard to picture




.If i remove the metal part on the block to see the cracked will i void warranty?

both blocks have exactly the same crack on the same spot


----------



## Gabrielzm

[q


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



uote name="ozzy1925" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/69920#post_22502973"]guys i need help








today i received my 3x r290blocks from ek and i realised 2 of 3 blocks have small crack on the plexi where the metalpart comes .i try to take picture without removing the metal and circle it but its hard to picture




.If i remove the metal part on the block to see the cracked will i void warranty?

both blocks have exactly the same crack on the same spot[/qu


ote]

send a PM to Derick (the ek representative here). I can not tell what is going on from the pictures but before you do anything talk with derick.

@derickwm


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [q
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> uote name="ozzy1925" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/69920#post_22502973"]guys i need help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> today i received my 3x r290blocks from ek and i realised 2 of 3 blocks have small crack on the plexi where the metalpart comes .i try to take picture without removing the metal and circle it but its hard to picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .If i remove the metal part on the block to see the cracked will i void warranty?
> 
> both blocks have exactly the same crack on the same spot[/qu
> 
> 
> ote]
> 
> send a PM to Derick (the ek representative here). I can not tell what is going on from the pictures but before you do anything talk with derick.
> 
> @derickwm


yea i posted in the ek club but its hard to picture with a cell phone. here is another shot


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [q
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> uote name="ozzy1925" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/69920#post_22502973"]guys i need help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> today i received my 3x r290blocks from ek and i realised 2 of 3 blocks have small crack on the plexi where the metalpart comes .i try to take picture without removing the metal and circle it but its hard to picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .If i remove the metal part on the block to see the cracked will i void warranty?
> 
> both blocks have exactly the same crack on the same spot[/qu
> 
> 
> ote]
> 
> send a PM to Derick (the ek representative here). I can not tell what is going on from the pictures but before you do anything talk with derick.
> 
> @derickwm
> 
> 
> 
> yea i posted in the ek club but its hard to picture with a cell phone. here is another shot
Click to expand...

Personally,I would ask EK support for a replacement top,if that doesnt work or you cant RMA for whatever reason...try wicking solvent weld. Tensol will weld that up nicely with no mess.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Personally,I would ask EK support for a replacement top,if that doesnt work or you cant RMA for whatever reason...try wicking solvent weld. Tensol will weld that up nicely with no mess.


i am opening a ticket now and as far as i can say its the framing where small square shape o-ring goes into


----------



## max883

Only problem is GPUs is heating up CPU and CPU is heating up GPUs


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> They did the same thing with AIO coolers and put the h220 from Swiftech out of the US market.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1411176/swiftech-com-swiftech-today-announced-the-withdrawal-from-us-sales-of-the-h220-cpu-cooling-kit
> 
> This is a dirty company (aseteek) and people should boycott those corsair AIO coolers since they came from Aseteek. They want monopoly enforced based on patents and to put the small enthusiasts companies out of US market. Sad really how things are going in US patent system.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Sad to see asuetek back at that patent trolling. They are nothing but bad news for the enthusiast market.


You guys do realise that Asetek have been making AIOs for longer than Swiftech or any others?

If you invent something, you should be able to protect your idea. It's not patent trolling if you thought of it, and are making those products. It's just protecting your business, however much we as customers of competing companies dislike it.


----------



## Kimir

I still have my first rig with Pentium 4 prescott and ATI Radeon X850XT with Asetek waterchill kit working just fine.







I should bench that thing someday, just to post some amazing scores on the bot lol.
I'm not liking patent troll at all tho, if everyone could just do like Tesla Motors did, that'd be great.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You guys do realise that Asetek have been making AIOs for longer than Swiftech or any others?
> 
> If you invent something, you should be able to protect your idea. It's not patent trolling if you thought of it, and are making those products. It's just protecting your business, however much we as customers of competing companies dislike it.


You really should read the patent. It's very general and if they chose to enforce it as written, most water blocks would be infringing on their patent. They have decided to instead by very specific in regards to whom they've gone after. That's my understanding after reading reading the patent and assessing the actions that they've taken since then.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You guys do realise that Asetek have been making AIOs for longer than Swiftech or any others?
> 
> If you invent something, you should be able to protect your idea. It's not patent trolling if you thought of it, and are making those products. It's just protecting your business, however much we as customers of competing companies dislike it.


Yep, understand this fully Wisk and agree, as general principle, on what you are saying. But I also have read the patent claim they use to threat against the h220 cooler last year as well as the new one about GPU blocks. There are many ways you can file a patent and you can be general or very specific on how you describe it... The second part of been classified as patent troll, at least for me, is how you go on (having in theory such patent) pursuing your rights or protecting your idea. Why Aseteek didn't went after other companies in the case of AOI (the big dogs)? Because half the corsair coolers comes from Coolit and they don't want to hurt their big partners? The patent geggeg call attention to it sounds very general in some parts opening the window to go after GPU block makers. I am not a lawyer and this is just my two cents on this.


----------



## Jakewat

Had to post this here because you don't see triple loops too often and these guys have done a nice job with the acrylic. This is a computer store in my country that do really great builds and I thought I would link them here for anyone that would like to have a look at their work.


Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ComputerLounge?ref=stream


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I don't know about you guys, but I'm still in awe that this thread has reached 1000 pages in such a relatively short time. Congrats to OCN and it's dedicated members on the advancement of thermal computing innovations (water cooling).


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I don't know about you guys, but I'm still in awe that this thread has reached 1000 pages in such a relatively short time. Congrats to OCN and it's dedicated members on the advancement of thermal computing innovations (water cooling).


1000 pages? Its 6995 pages on my end.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> 1000 pages? Its 6995 pages on my end.


I guess it all depends on how each person sets up their post counts per page. ...For me, it's reached 1000 pages.








*carries on like this discussion never happened*


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

And this has been another episode of 'Why referring to page counts is futile'.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hmm. . Lol


----------



## waveaddict

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



7'-[2117lllllllllllllllllll77777777777777777777777777777wqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq8ddddddddddddddddddd
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolanceGamer*





Quote:


> So its been about a year and half since I first posted my Caselabs Merlin build and a year since I've done any sort of update.
> 
> I just finished reassembling the entire build. I opened all the blocks and cleaned out every last nook and cranny.
> 
> I also removed the Bitspower RAM block and replaced it with an EK MOSFET block which ended up making a huge difference in terms of flow. I knew that RAM block would be restrictive but I didn't think it would be as bad as it was. Without it, the air moved through the loop at more than twice the speed compared to the last two times. I also know RAM blocks are completely unnecessary, but as I explained in my original post, it was for aesthetic purposes only.
> 
> I replaced my dud of a 4770k (4.1 max OC no matter the voltage) with a 4790k. Now before everyone jumps on me for this, I want to first say I was able to sell my 4770k $250 and my 2600k old $120. I just could not take being forced to run my CPU at stock when I have invested so much into my cooling system.
> 
> So far I have been able to get the 4790k to run at 4.7Ghz @ 2.26V with temps during normal use around 55-60c and in the low 70's with PRIME/Intel Burn/Intel Extreme tuning. I haven't done any tweaking in the Bios other than increasing the voltage and multiplier.
> 
> The only other recent update is the addition of the Samsung EVO 1TB SSD which replaced my old 1TB WD Black.
> 
> System Specs
> 
> 4790k @ 4.7Ghz/1.26v
> 16GB Corsair Dominator GT @2133Mhz
> x2 SLI EVGA GTX680 SuperClock @ 1240Mhz
> Asus Maximus VI Hero / Z87
> Corsair AX860i
> Sound Blaster Recon3D
> Corsair FORCE SSD 256GB
> Samsung EVO 1TB SSD
> Caselabs Merlin SM8
> 
> WaterCooling
> 
> Koolance PMP 450S
> Koolance GTX 680 block x2
> Koolance CPU 380i
> Koolance Fittings (45, 90, 60)
> Koolance Quick Disconnects (drainage)
> EK Mosfet block
> XSPC 480 / 240 rad
> Bitspower Extensions (5mm through 25mm)[/quote


Nice build,the only thing out of place is all those extensions.Why not just have 2 fittings and a piece of tube from rad to gpu?


----------



## derickwm

I'm still at 10 posts per page...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> And this has been another episode of 'Why referring to page counts is futile'.


Here's my view.


----------



## derickwm

Meanwhile in the future...


----------



## Neo Zuko

How about post counts? They remain the same, just use post counts.


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Had to post this here because you don't see triple loops too often and these guys have done a nice job with the acrylic. This is a computer store in my country that do really great builds and I thought I would link them here for anyone that would like to have a look at their work.


just can say Woww nice dual loop


----------



## royce5950

I have been getting to work on the copper bases for the waterblocks I'm building and man I just gotta say, No matter how deep the little grooves are above the main chip location on a waterblock (you know the tiny little slits in the middle of most blocks) it doesnt even really make a difference. I saw a build log a while back where someone modded their block to make coolant just barely come in direct contact with their chip (idiots because then the thermal paste would enter the block and catastrophe would occur no matter what lol) but my point is that even just hand sanding the copper plate, or using dremel or jig saw... no matter what, you can feel heat throughout the whole copper plate from the friction at any given point on the copper. Copper is the true master at heat dissipation and I even tried running cold water on it. instantly you could feel the temperature change. I thought many of you had not experienced the feel of your waterblock when its hot or cold and I wanted to share with you the surprise I got and how I'm now very pleased and at ease knowing how well copper is helping cool my components.

I had a quick question...

I put my computer in sleep mode for a couple of hours after just doing some generally normal tasks on the computer (stress tests, cpu burners, benchmarks, liquid nitrogen cooling... you know, normal.. hehe jk jk... anyways). When I turned it on the front bay pump/reservoir combo I have was buzzing. Not a loud buzzing / grinding but about as loud as a medium sized fly near your ear if you can get much from that. Id take a video or a recording but I'm praying that it doesnt happen again any time soon. I turned my computer off for a moment and disconnected the power cord just to make sure that was the actual source of the buzzing and sure enough I powered it up and the buzzing had stopped. So being as that is the pump for my cpu loop (my gpu is on another pump) I shut it off the instant I hit the log in screen and powered it back on with the cpu pump once again plugged in and now the buzzing stopped? And its been just as quiet as it was before the buzzing... Its been an hour now with no issues and I'm hoping I dont need to replace it as all of my companies funds have been going towards the latest build in my log.

Model:


XSPC X20 750 Dual 5.25" Pump / Reservoir Combo

Actual pump model:

XSPC X20 750 (Black Revision 4)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Had to post this here because you don't see triple loops too often and these guys have done a nice job with the acrylic. This is a computer store in my country that do really great builds and I thought I would link them here for anyone that would like to have a look at their work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ComputerLounge?ref=stream


Always nice to see a triple loop . . .









I'm a bit partial to this one though,



Darlene


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Had to post this here because you don't see triple loops too often and these guys have done a nice job with the acrylic. This is a computer store in my country that do really great builds and I thought I would link them here for anyone that would like to have a look at their work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Triple Loops!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ComputerLounge?ref=stream


Computer Lounge, now this is what I talking about. A B&M that does WC in store with examples. If only they weren't so far from me I'd send them my CV.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Always nice to see a triple loop . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a bit partial to this one though,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ***!!!!???!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Darlene, where did you see this?


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Darlene, where did you see this?


You are not serious, right?


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> You are not serious, right?


I don't know everyone here yet and who built what. I haven't seen all the posts and all the pics on the site.

So is my question a serious one? Yes it is.


----------



## VSG

It's her own build, the stretched limo one.


----------



## skupples

Speaking of stretch limo... IDK if I ever saw Darlene upload photos of it running.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Triple loops....make laugh,everytime.

Still,its their money!

I'm still waiting for Darlene to try and pick it up without the thing collapsing in on itself.
Before the inevitable backlash,Darlene and myself have been thru this already. We agree to disagree on aesthetics .








I just wish she would go with something a bit up scale from NZXT....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Triple loops....make laugh,everytime.
> 
> Still,its their money!
> 
> I'm still waiting for Darlene to try and pick it up without the thing collapsing in on itself.
> Before the inevitable backlash,Darlene and myself have been thru this already. We agree to disagree on aesthetics .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wish she would go with something a bit up scale from NZXT....


I just want to see it run.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just wish she would go with something a bit up scale from NZXT....


I actually like that aspect of it. I'm not a big fan of huge builds in refrigerator cases.


----------



## Gabrielzm

No discount codes from FZCPU. Just free ground shipping:

http://www.frozencpu.com/index.html?id=rnybQDTu


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Always nice to see a triple loop . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a bit partial to this one though,
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Oh my!


----------



## vlps5122

hey guys for my upcoming build i have a question on flow rate. how much would closing off 2 ports from the loop with stop plug/drain valve affect flow rate? in total I have 8 ports from the rads, 2 from the gpu terminal, and 2 from the res, so 12 total ports and 2 of the rad ports would be closed off, 1 with a stop plug and 1 with a drain valve, how negatively would this affect flow rate? temps? thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I actually like that aspect of it. I'm not a big fan of huge builds in refrigerator cases.


Hey now


----------



## Slider46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlps5122*
> 
> hey guys for my upcoming build i have a question on flow rate. how much would closing off 2 ports from the loop with stop plug/drain valve affect flow rate? in total I have 8 ports from the rads, 2 from the gpu terminal, and 2 from the res, so 12 total ports and 2 of the rad ports would be closed off, 1 with a stop plug and 1 with a drain valve, how negatively would this affect flow rate? temps? thanks


Can you elaborate? Are you talking about the two extra ports some radiators have like this one?



I don't think you would ever use all 4 ports on one radiator so two ports would always be closed off. Not sure I understand what you're asking.


----------



## vlps5122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Can you elaborate? Are you talking about the two extra ports some radiators have like this one?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you would ever use all 4 ports on one radiator so two ports would always be closed off. Not sure I understand what you're asking.


no i mean assume my rads only had 2 ports to begin with (not 4 as pictured). how negative would closing 2 of the 8 ports on my 4 radiators (2 ports on each of the 4 rads) be for water flow? one would be closed off with a stop plug one would be closed off with a drain valve.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlps5122*
> 
> no i mean assume my rads only had 2 ports to begin with (not 4 as pictured). how negative would closing 2 of the 8 ports on my 4 radiators (2 ports on each of the 4 rads) be for water flow? one would be closed off with a stop plug one would be closed off with a drain valve.


Still not sure what you're getting at here. If you only have two ports on each rad then closing any of them would be detrimental as you'd stop loop flow.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlps5122*
> 
> no i mean assume my rads only had 2 ports to begin with (not 4 as pictured). how negative would closing 2 of the 8 ports on my 4 radiators (2 ports on each of the 4 rads) be for water flow? one would be closed off with a stop plug one would be closed off with a drain valve.


I guess Im not very clear what you are trying to accomplish.
However if you close one of the port of the two on each rad coolant wouldnt be able to flow out of the radiator, you need to have one port be an inlet and another be an outlet.


----------



## vlps5122

yeah i need a y splitter for one rad but then i reduce water flow too, damn gotta re-consider loop order


----------



## Slider46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlps5122*
> 
> no i mean assume my rads only had 2 ports to begin with (not 4 as pictured). how negative would closing 2 of the 8 ports on my 4 radiators (2 ports on each of the 4 rads) be for water flow? one would be closed off with a stop plug one would be closed off with a drain valve.


You need to draw us a diagram or something because what you're saying is you have two ports on a radiator and you want to close one side off - which won't work in a loop. You need to have an inlet and outlet - requiring at least two ports.

This works:



Closing off one side won't work.


----------



## vlps5122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> You need to draw us a diagram or something because what you're saying is you have two ports on a radiator and you want to close one side off - which won't work in a loop. You need to have an inlet and outlet - requiring at least two ports.
> 
> This works:
> 
> 
> 
> Closing off one side won't work.


one of those 2 would only have 50% going out because of the drain valve setup i was thinking so reduce my water flow. i think i am going to get a t connector with the drain valve to not reduce water flow


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlps5122*
> 
> one of those 2 would only have 50% going out because of the drain valve setup i was thinking so reduce my water flow. i think i am going to get a t connector with the drain valve to not reduce water flow


Having a drain valve isn't going to really affect flow unless you have it open.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlps5122*
> 
> one of those 2 would only have 50% going out because of the drain valve setup i was thinking so reduce my water flow. i think i am going to get a t connector with the drain valve to not reduce water flow


If you use something like this T Fitting you shouldn't really have an impact on flow, unless you connect your tube at the angle and even then the impact would be minimal.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlps5122*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Can you elaborate? Are you talking about the two extra ports some radiators have like this one?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you would ever use all 4 ports on one radiator so two ports would always be closed off. Not sure I understand what you're asking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no i mean assume my rads only had 2 ports to begin with (not 4 as pictured). how negative would closing 2 of the 8 ports on my 4 radiators (2 ports on each of the 4 rads) be for water flow? one would be closed off with a stop plug one would be closed off with a drain valve.
Click to expand...

There will be zero flow.


----------



## skupples

Quietest MCP35x2 top on the market? (opinion based question, I know Bundy has done a review, but it seems kinda old at this point)

The stock Swiftech top is just SO LOUD & it makes the pumps whine.


----------



## vlps5122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> There will be zero flow.


i misworded myself didnt mean closing off an inlet/outlet entirely rather reducing water flow from it, but i got the answer i was seeking thanks guys, will go with t fitting and change loop order


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey now


lol

Not that I don't like your build though as I'm subbed all over.









My personal preference is just not that style. I like odd things.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quietest MCP35x2 top on the market? (opinion based question, I know Bundy has done a review, but it seems kinda old at this point)
> 
> The stock Swiftech top is just SO LOUD & it makes the pumps whine.


Not going to say its the quietest but for me the difference was night and day between the Swiftech stock top and the acrylic Bitspower one. I swapped them out purely for aesthetic reasons but if I knew how much quieter it was I would have done it much sooner.


----------



## sprower

Impulse buy... I'm really not digging the finish on this Nemesis 480GTS...









It'll be hidden away for the most part. I just don't like the thought of cleaning the dust off that finish.


----------



## VSG

Yikes! Those close ups do make it look pretty nasty. I will be content with my SR 1 instead.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Debating on keeping my 120 in my loop when I add my 2nd 240, will go res-pump-240-cpu-120-*possible memory*-240-res..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Had to post this here because you don't see triple loops too often and these guys have done a nice job with the acrylic. This is a computer store in my country that do really great builds and I thought I would link them here for anyone that would like to have a look at their work.
> 
> 
> Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ComputerLounge?ref=stream


That's an amazing build! Checked your log, pretty sweet







. Are you using the Skyn3t modified driver to run quad gtx 780s or tri sli + phyx?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Impulse buy... I'm really not digging the finish on this Nemesis 480GTS...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll be hidden away for the most part. I just don't like the thought of cleaning the dust off that finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


reminds me of that rhino line stuff they line truck beds with. the finish is okay, just wish you could match it up with more things. i doubt you'll have other pieces in your rig with that finish...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Impulse buy... I'm really not digging the finish on this Nemesis 480GTS...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll be hidden away for the most part. I just don't like the thought of cleaning the dust off that finish.


Really?

That's just wrinkle finish black. Long used on valve covers and comes in other colors. I might use it on my next build as a backdrop/filler.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Really?
> 
> That's just wrinkle finish black. Long used on valve covers and comes in other colors. I might use it on my next build as a backdrop/filler.


but do you realize what a pain it will be to keep clean?


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's an amazing build! Checked your log, pretty sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Are you using the Skyn3t modified driver to run quad gtx 780s or tri sli + phyx?


Haha, not my build was just linking it because I love the stuff that these guys do. You could always ask on their build log.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> but do you realize what a pain it will be to keep clean?


I've had it on plenty a valve cover and its not any more difficult to clean than regular paint. A little bit of compressed air and possibly paint brush or even a damp cloth will get any dust off easily. (that's usually how I clean all my extra dusty pc parts) It'll be easier to clean than a circuit board that's for sure.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> but do you realize what a pain it will be to keep clean?


Wouldn't a vacuum with a brush head do a pretty good job at cleaning it?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Impulse buy... I'm really not digging the finish on this Nemesis 480GTS...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll be hidden away for the most part. I just don't like the thought of cleaning the dust off that finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They may perform well... but dear lord, in terms of aesthetics that looks atrocious. Looks like something Alphacool would put out (minus the inevitably decent actual build quality of Black Ice







)


----------



## wermad

Did some updates to my loop. Also, noticed a staining or reaction going on between the Primochill and the rubber edge trim/guard CaseLabs uses for their cable pass-throughs.










Little bit of dust but Its way too heavy to bring it downstairs and outside to use the compressor









note: Excuse the dangling cables, its to power the EK Ascendacy controller I'm testing


----------



## LiquidHaus

dang wermad the green on those fan blades are awesome. and our loops are pretty similar with how the tubing is routed. glad you're still sticking with tubing. i still love it imo.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> reminds me of that rhino line stuff they line truck beds with. the finish is okay, just wish you could match it up with more things. i doubt you'll have other pieces in your rig with that finish...


Just like rhinoliner minus the rubbery feel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Really?
> 
> That's just wrinkle finish black. Long used on valve covers and comes in other colors. I might use it on my next build as a backdrop/filler.


Maybe so... but not so used in the watercooling market. Like I said, glad it'll be mostly out of sight, because matching that to anything else in a case would be close to impossible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did some updates to my loop. Also, noticed a staining or reaction going on between the Primochill and the rubber edge trim/guard CaseLabs uses for their cable pass-throughs.


Lame. Definitely looks like the primochill is absorbing the dye off the pass throughs. Also... anything to big to drag to the compressor in my house gets drug to the closest window. Place box fan in window, open adjacent window and beat that dust out with a hand held shop-vac.


----------



## armartins

7000.... with mouthfull THOUSAND!!!


----------



## wermad

@ lifeisshort117

Im not a fan of hard acrylic when it comes to putting it together







. I don't have the patience to go through that process again.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ lifeisshort117
> 
> Im not a fan of hard acrylic when it comes to putting it together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't have the patience to go through that process again.


Derick is now questioning passing off that fan controller to you.


----------



## derickwm

Eh I agree with wermad, I'm not a huge fan of acrylic. That face was at his tubing problems.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Eh I agree with wermad, I'm not a huge fan of acrylic. That face was at his tubing problems.


i laughed at his hardline problems. he has that huge monstrosity of a cooling set-up and wanted to finish it off with acrylic lines. ride him enough and he might try it again


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Lame. Definitely looks like the primochill is absorbing the dye off the pass throughs. Also... anything to big to drag to the compressor in my house gets drug to the closest window. Place box fan in window, open adjacent window and beat that dust out with a hand held shop-vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Just like rhinoliner minus the rubbery feel.
> Maybe so... but not so used in the watercooling market. Like I said, glad it'll be mostly out of sight, because matching that to anything else in a case would be close to impossible.
> Lame. Definitely looks like the primochill is absorbing the dye off the pass throughs. Also... anything to big to drag to the compressor in my house gets drug to the closest window. Place box fan in window, open adjacent window and beat that dust out with a hand held shop-vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Derick is now questioning passing off that fan controller to you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Eh I agree with wermad, I'm not a huge fan of acrylic. That face was at his tubing problems.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

It could be absorbing but it almost looks like a burn. Its brownish so I'm more inclined to think its a reaction between the edge trim and the tube. Every other piece that touched other things like the frame, fittings, plastic, etc. were fine. Just the three pieces of tube that went through these pass throughs that had the guard on them. Since I had to re-do most of the tube runs, it was easier to salvage the lengths that weren't affected. Very weird. i used primochill with the TH10 and I did not get this with that (though this was an earlier TH10) on both the oem and the spare rubber trim i have for custom cable pass-throughs.

I still have some grommets from an old build (Mont Noir 1.0 MM Extended Ascension) and used those instead of rubber trim. Hopefully these won't react and they look much sharper (looks like nylon vs rubber).


----------



## Jeronbernal

here's my addition guys


----------



## slothiraptor

Looks nice! I love the ssd's.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Looks nice! I love the ssd's.


thanks slothiraptor!


----------



## SeeThruHead

That build looks great. Deserves a proper photo shoot.


----------



## wermad

Everything fired up nicely!.



A little peak at the Ascendacy. Found out my 35x has no pwm control. I bought it cheap almost two years ago and I know why it was cheap







. Anyways, the controller can drop it very low, lower then a manual controller. Super quiet with the lowest possible setting using the on-board power output.



Btw, the controller is not the final product. Its still under testing. You can follow along if you'd like:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1494084/sponsored-ek-ascendacy-community-test-thread


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> That build looks great. Deserves a proper photo shoot.


hehe, thanks man! i wish i knew how to use my camera... i read a guide on bit tech with something about aperture... boy oh boy am i a camera n00b. @[email protected]


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> hehe, thanks man! i wish i knew how to use my camera... i read a guide on bit tech with something about aperture... boy oh boy am i a camera n00b. @[email protected]


Build turned out really well, nice to see it all together. And loving the gold SSD's


----------



## FuzzDad

Finished off my 250D build. Wiring isn't custom yet but debating if it's relevant given all the wiring is crammed into the cage below the reservoir and out of sight...maybe I'll sleeve the pump cables. It's a full up mini-ITX build w/EK full board block on a Asus Impact VI board running a OC'd 4770K, an XSPC block (and backplate) on a stock OC'd EVGA GTX 780, 140mm and 240mm rads from Black Ice, a Koolance reservoir running twin PMP-400's in serial, mostly bitspower compression fittings, and two Koolance pump controllers set into the space where the hard drives would normally go. I use XSPC UV coolant in primochill tubes. Hard as hell to get all that crammed in there without a lot of prior planning and some of my compression fittings took forever to get reasonably tight. The rad/fan combos are about a mm or 2 too large to fit perfectly so things are...tight.

Runs fast, cool, and low noise. No real modifications to the case other than trimming some of the plastic off the bay to fit the reservoir (the side wedges were too big). Oh...a couple of 240GB SSD's in raid 0 as well. I'm thinking of moving all this in the fall over to a CaseLabs S3 for silly (so I can use larger rads and raise my e-penis level a tad).


----------



## Trolle BE

hmm
i noticed my reservoir level dropped a bit,looks like some liquid escaped somewhere but i cant seem to find anything wet in my pc
can it be the level just dropped a bit without having any troubles?
when my rad had a leak a few months ago i immediatly saw something but now :s


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> hmm
> i noticed my reservoir level dropped a bit,looks like some liquid escaped somewhere but i cant seem to find anything wet in my pc
> can it be the level just dropped a bit without having any troubles?
> when my rad had a leak a few months ago i immediatly saw something but now :s


Maybe there was just an air pocket somewhere in the loop that finally dislodged itself.


----------



## stickg1

You guys weren't kidding, the D5 is super quiet! I'm still working on this loop but here's a little tid-bit for you..


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You guys weren't kidding, the D5 is super quiet! I'm still working on this loop but here's a little tid-bit for you..


That reminded me.

What is the most silent pump with decent performance? I thought I heard that the 655 was quiet?


----------



## FuzzDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> hmm
> i noticed my reservoir level dropped a bit,looks like some liquid escaped somewhere but i cant seem to find anything wet in my pc
> can it be the level just dropped a bit without having any troubles?
> when my rad had a leak a few months ago i immediatly saw something but now :s


As another person posted...air bubbles being worked out of the system. You will also get some minor evaporation and/or absorption through the walls of your tubing. I've had air bubbles trapped for months in machines that I didn't move around that much. One day I took my older (larger) PC upstairs to hook up to the big screen and after I brought it downstairs my water level had dropped 1/2 inch...no leakage at all. I did a few checks and was able to get a large air bubble out of one of my rads. So unless you can find indications of a consistent leak somewhere...best bet is air bubbles.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> That reminded me.
> 
> What is the most silent pump with decent performance? I thought I heard that the 655 was quiet?


That is a D5. Get any D5 pump, say a vario for easy pump control, from any manufacturer you want. The only difference will be the pump cover and top, with additional reservoir mounting options as well.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> That reminded me.
> 
> What is the most silent pump with decent performance? I thought I heard that the 655 was quiet?
> 
> 
> 
> That is a D5. Get any D5 pump, say a vario for easy pump control, from any manufacturer you want. The only difference will be the pump cover and top, with additional reservoir mounting options as well.
Click to expand...

D5 is the most quiet? How much more quiet compared to my pump in my Raystorm XSPC res/pump combo thingy?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> D5 is the most quiet? How much more quiet compared to my pump in my Raystorm XSPC res/pump combo thingy?


I don't know which exact res/pump combo you have so I can't guess. Chances are you have a D5 yourself. If you have a picture, it will help.

Decoupling the pump from the reservoir can help reduce noise, as would running it at lower speeds as well of course.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> D5 is the most quiet? How much more quiet compared to my pump in my Raystorm XSPC res/pump combo thingy?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know which exact res/pump combo you have so I can't guess. Chances are you have a D5 yourself. If you have a picture, it will help.
> 
> Decoupling the pump from the reservoir can help reduce noise, as would running it at lower speeds as well of course.
Click to expand...

I have the X2O v4 pump/res combo. (acetal version, not the clear poly). The pump is basically built into the reservoir.

http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I have the X2O v4 pump/res combo. (acetal version, not the clear poly). The pump is basically built into the reservoir.
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4


That's not the D5 version of the res/pump combo. I have the same 750 just like the one you linked and it's just as silent as my D5's...if not a bit quieter.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I have the X2O v4 pump/res combo. (acetal version, not the clear poly). The pump is basically built into the reservoir.
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4


Oh the XSPC 750..Ok that's not a D5. It performs midway between a D5 at full speed and an Asetek AIO pump and is priced accordingly. Martin did a review and found it was at the same noise level as a D5 on setting 3 (which is pretty quiet) once any rattling was gone. The thing with that combo is that the reservoir is a custom piece that houses this pump so I don't know if you can just remove the pump and have an external one elsewhere. If you are happy with the noise and performance, no need to change your setup.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I have the X2O v4 pump/res combo. (acetal version, not the clear poly). The pump is basically built into the reservoir.
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4
> 
> 
> 
> Oh the XSPC 750..Ok that's not a D5. It performs midway between a D5 at full speed and an Asetek AIO pump and is priced accordingly. Martin did a review and found it was at the same noise level as a D5 on setting 3 (which is pretty quiet) once any rattling was gone. The thing with that combo is that the reservoir is a custom piece that houses this pump so I don't know if you can just remove the pump and have an external one elsewhere. If you are happy with the noise and performance, no need to change your setup.
Click to expand...

Yeah mine kinda, rattles.

Attached is a recording of what it sounds like:

Voice0001.zip 129k .zip file


It's annoying, and I can hear it over my fans. Plus that and the seals are going on the res, so I'd have to replace both at some point. Was just wondering what the best option would be.

Currently I was looking at a 655 + EK 250ml res.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Currently I was looking at a 655 + EK 250ml res.


good choice


----------



## ccRicers

I'm also looking to buy a new res soon. Anyone have experience with the PrimoChill CTR Phase 2?



I like the metallic one but I haven't got any idea of how well built it is. There are not too many metallic reservoirs out there and the Phobya Balancers don't come in sizes small enough to go in my small case.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Currently I was looking at a 655 + EK 250ml res.
> 
> 
> 
> good choice
Click to expand...

But I am worried about the 655's noise level. I am not pushing much, so what would it be like on the lowest speed setting?


----------



## pc-illiterate

no one else answered you yet so,
noise will be fine as long as you decouple it from the case. d5's are the quietest pumps.


----------



## VSG

Ya, decoupling the pump by using tubing between the res and pump will help. A soft mount between the pump and the case like a Shoggy Sandwich also helps.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no one else answered you yet so,
> noise will be fine as long as you decouple it from the case. d5's are the quietest pumps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, decoupling the pump by using tubing between the res and pump will help. A soft mount between the pump and the case like a Shoggy Sandwich also helps.


Thanks.

So do you reccomend getting the D5 or the 655 and then attacking it to the case via something like foam, between 2 tubes or whatnot? To dampen the vibration?

edit- I don't think there is anyway to detach the pump from the res without messing it up in the X2O v4 pump/res combo?


----------



## stickg1




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*


Lovely job.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> But I am worried about the 655's noise level. I am not pushing much, so what would it be like on the lowest speed setting?


I have a d5 on the fastest speed setting and the only way I can here it is if I have all my fans off and I put my ear right next to it.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> But I am worried about the 655's noise level. I am not pushing much, so what would it be like on the lowest speed setting?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a d5 on the fastest speed setting and the only way I can here it is if I have all my fans off and I put my ear right next to it.
Click to expand...

It's almost the same for my pump, but seeing as how I will have to replace it once my res's acetal gets messed up I might as well go for a decent one.

Also note: I am looking for dead-silent.

I barely have any fans running in my rig as is.


----------



## stickg1

I don't know if it gets much more quiet than a decoupled D5. I can't hear anything but my rad fans. And since I fold GPU/CPU 24/7 I have no problem running my fans at 1200RPM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lovely job.


Thanks B!









I was a little concerned when I bought this block. It was cheap, and the reviews were bad. But I don't plan on keeping this card in my main rig for long so I didn't want to spend $120 on a block for an old card that I got for $180.

I'm folding right now, CPU/GPU at 100% for about an hour now. GPU core temp is 44C and I am perfectly fine with that! I don't think paying double the price for a block would be worth a handful more degrees. I'll save that money for my next GPU/block purchase in a few months.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> It's almost the same for my pump, but seeing as how I will have to replace it once my res's acetal gets messed up I might as well go for a decent one.
> 
> Also note: I am looking for dead-silent.
> 
> I barely have any fans running in my rig as is.


Well, as long as you mount it on something soft, so the vibrations are deadened, and put it at a lower speed, I would say it's dead silent.


----------



## Kimir

Me, typing on my mech keyboard (cherry black with o-rings) make more noise than my D5 vario at setting 5. Silent enough I'd say, but I would have to reduce it to 2-3 to be able to sleep with my PC on (I really don't like noise and light to sleep, but that's just me).


----------



## snef

the summit and pump top/res after some polishing

















and I bought a White Mechanical Keyboard and white/red keycaps set from WASDKeyboard.com

received the keyboard today (shut!, its for Bloody angel but don't say this to my wife)


----------



## VSG

Is it wrong that I like the keyboard more? Great job with the polish though!

From Hellfire Toyz:
Quote:


> Our eBay store will be discounted entirely tomorrow and tomorrow only - EVERY item will be marked 5% off. We are also offering free shipping on EVERY domestic order over $150. Video cards, cases, power supplies, water cooling parts - EVERYTHING will be on sale. Sale starts tonight at midnight. http://stores.ebay.com/HELLFIRE-TOYZ-LLC/i.html


His usual prices are not inflated so this would be a good deal. Definitely check it out!


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> the summit and pump top/res after some polishing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn, that looks sexy.


----------



## mercinator16

What would would be an optimal fan orientation for a 360 rad on top and a 240 on the front? I have both as intake and one 140mm fan at the rear for exhaust.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> What would would be an optimal fan orientation for a 360 rad on top and a 240 on the front? I have both as intake and one 140mm fan at the rear for exhaust.


That seems perfectly fine to me.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


That came out really nice.









Quick question for you. Is that the 150 ddc top upgrade reservoir? If so would it be possible to get a measurement of it?


----------



## wermad

Finally some numbers for my single, lowly, little pump:



Specs:

-Sensor: Koolance SEN-FM18T10 (combination temp sensor)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






-Frequency circuit (required) / Display: DCB-FM01): Needed to for the Koolance sensor. Temp sensor can be read by another controller (EK Ascendacy)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






-Pump: Swiftech MCP35X PWM: running full, ~4500rpm ~18w (12.1v)
-Loop: pump > ut60 560 > ut60 560> 4x gpu blocks > ram > cpu> vrm > pch > ram > ut60 280 >ut60 280 > ut60 420> sensor> res

-2.7Lpm (0.7Gpm per readout)
-Liquid temp @ end of the loop 27°C (ambient ~24°C) light to low load (surfing), running plain distilled, no additives or biocides.

I get asked a lot why I only run one pump with such a large loop. I've really haven't seen any need for any additional pumps and I've even kept this single pump running on lower settings (no pwm







but voltage control via EK Ascendacy).

Big thanks to IT-Diva for the assistance


----------



## VSG

I guessed 0.8 GPM, what do I win?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I guessed 0.8 GPM, what do I win?




I need to take readings at the pump to see how much loss I get. I dropped the pump "Silent" using the EK Ascendacy, brings rpm down to 3200 and voltage to 7.2V, my flow dropped to 1.8Lpm (0.5Gpm). I can go lower, as low as 1200rpm but the controller is acting a bit weird. At this speed the pump is dead silent but it doesn't last long before it shuts down.

edit: btw, huge difference between 0.7 and 0.8 gpm (2.7L vs 3.0L). That's almost a can of coke


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally some numbers for my single, lowly, little pump:
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> 
> -Sensor: Koolance SEN-FM18T10 (combination temp sensor)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Frequency circuit (required) / Display: DCB-FM01): Needed to for the Koolance sensor. Temp sensor can be read by another controller (EK Ascendacy)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Pump: Swiftech MCP35X PWM: running full, ~4500rpm ~18w (12.1v)
> -Loop: pump > ut60 560 > ut60 560> 4x gpu blocks > ram > cpu> vrm > pch > ram > ut60 280 >ut60 280 > ut60 420> sensor> res
> 
> -2.7Lpm (0.7Gpm per readout)
> -Liquid temp @ end of the loop 27°C (ambient ~24°C) light to low load (surfing), running plain distilled, no additives or biocides.
> 
> I get asked a lot why I only run one pump with such a large loop. I've really haven't seen any need for any additional pumps and I've even kept this single pump running on lower settings (no pwm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but voltage control via EK Ascendacy).
> 
> Big thanks to IT-Diva for the assistance


A thing of beauty wer









You have more guts than my 'enthusiast OCD' will afford. If no other reason existed (but quad parallel takes that out possibility out of play) I would run another for redundancy/pump failure.

that green is terrific looking.


----------



## wermad

Thank you









I have the cpu shutdown already going so if the pump stops, it will just shut down. I used to have issues with the pump shutting down on its own, but it turned to be the pins on the connector. Once they were replaced, it has not stopped like before. I did have a few sudden stops with the EK controller, but that's still wip so I can't rely on it for now as my 24/7 setup for the lowest possible speed and quietness.

Even if the pump dies, it lived a good life and I can wait a few days to get a new one.


----------



## jpetrach

Noob question: why don't people ever use polyethylene tube? It's firm, ya kinda a milky white color. But it's .29$ A foot. I'm trying it and if I like the bends I'll paint the tube. But if there's going to be problems please let me know.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> That came out really nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question for you. Is that the 150 ddc top upgrade reservoir? If so would it be possible to get a measurement of it?


Thanks

sent you a MP


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> sent you a MP


Yo snef, what dye mixture did you end up using for the sands of God build? I remember a while back I was lurking around when you were trying to match vanilla sands mdpc sleeving, and I'm trying to do the same. That or find some kind of color to go with my build lol I still have absolutely no idea what color I want to use for this build :


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally some numbers for my single, lowly, little pump:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> 
> -Sensor: Koolance SEN-FM18T10 (combination temp sensor)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Frequency circuit (required) / Display: DCB-FM01): Needed to for the Koolance sensor. Temp sensor can be read by another controller (EK Ascendacy)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Pump: Swiftech MCP35X PWM: running full, ~4500rpm ~18w (12.1v)
> -Loop: pump > ut60 560 > ut60 560> 4x gpu blocks > ram > cpu> vrm > pch > ram > ut60 280 >ut60 280 > ut60 420> sensor> res
> 
> -2.7Lpm (0.7Gpm per readout)
> -Liquid temp @ end of the loop 27°C (ambient ~24°C) light to low load (surfing), running plain distilled, no additives or biocides.
> 
> I get asked a lot why I only run one pump with such a large loop. I've really haven't seen any need for any additional pumps and I've even kept this single pump running on lower settings (no pwm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but voltage control via EK Ascendacy).
> 
> Big thanks to IT-Diva for the assistance


I see that you're working in lpm and have the flow meter adapter output plugged up the Ascendacy, what are you getting flow wise for a reading from the Ascendacy?

According to Niko, the "impulse per liter" box on the pump page should be set to 212.

I'm in gpm, and I get the same reading on the Ascendacy as the flow meter with it set to 1180, you may want to try both.

Darlene


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Yo snef, what dye mixture did you end up using for the sands of God build? I remember a while back I was lurking around when you were trying to match vanilla sands mdpc sleeving, and I'm trying to do the same. That or find some kind of color to go with my build lol I still have absolutely no idea what color I want to use for this build :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I just simply love this build

for coolant, finally never went with Vanilla sand,
I used Yellow sand from Darkside Sleeving, more yellow/gold
for sure it will not fit with your build and second thing, lolllll don't remember the mixture

but Mike from Mayhem sent me the mixt for Vanilla sands with pics and remember it was pretty same color, maybe send him a PM


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I see that you're working in lpm and have the flow meter adapter output plugged up the Ascendacy, what are you getting flow wise for a reading from the Ascendacy?
> 
> According to Niko, the "impulse per liter" box on the pump page should be set to 212.
> 
> I'm in gpm, and I get the same reading on the Ascendacy as the flow meter with it set to 1180, you may want to try both.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not sure if I have a dud controller or its the software, but I get no flow read out using the 3-pin connector. If i use the RIVE's cpu header, i do get ~2400-2700 rpms (/1000ml, and it does match the Koolance display 2.4-2.7Lpm). If i hit the reset switch, it shows 0.2 average but current is 0.0. If I clear the values, I don't get anything after that. Strange


Edit, nm, figured it out







. Remove the pump from the 2-pin and its now showing but it doesn't match the Koolance controller







. will play around with it.

double edit: changed the pulse/L and its reading higher then the Koolance meter.


----------



## ozzy1925

as i tought here is what happened inside my 290 tops





.Ek is now sending me 2 new replacement tops


----------



## Shadowline2553

Just put in an order at FCPU for over 600 including shipping... ouch... but in a couple weeks I should have my rig put together with my cards under water.


----------



## stickg1

She may not be pretty, yet, but man I think I made a good parts selection this time around. Going Barrow instead of Bitspower saved me hundreds.

I just ordered the next round of adapters I will need to get that pump/res _inside_ the case, lol.


----------



## VSG

She's quite pretty where I am standing from.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> She may not be pretty, yet, but man I think I made a good parts selection this time around. Going Barrow instead of Bitspower saved me hundreds.


Yeah I think I might try those for the fittings your not going to be seeing which is like half of them. Where did you get yours from?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> She's quite pretty where I am standing from.


Well it is pretty cute, I'm actually not bothered by having the pump hanging off the side. It's surprisingly quiet too considering it's metal mounted to metal with metal, lol. I thought for sure the entire case would become a giant speaker. I set the D5 to setting 3, I have no flow-rate or temperature indicators, yet, but performance on my 280x is great, the CPU is better but I was hoping for more. I will tear down and investigate the quality of the mounts when I operate on the pump/res combo. The plan is to with a series of adapters to hang the unit in the air near the front rad with some tiny stents of neoprene tubing to suspend it hopefully in silence but with enough rigidity to stay put.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yeah I think I might try those for the fittings your not going to be seeing which is like half of them. Where did you get yours from?


On eBay. There are a few sellers in the US (this part is important) that carry most of the items you would need. I did only see 3/8" x 5/8" sizes but fortunately for me, that's what I wanted anyway.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang, what would be the best aio wc for the Amd fx-9590? Planning a build for a friend, thinking of matching that with the Asus M5A99FX PRO R2.0 and 32 Gb of AData DDR3 2133 XPG V1.0

Thanks for the quike responses


----------



## Dortheleus

Just wondering, can you put a pci-e 3 card in a pci-2 slot? Man I'm really out of the building game


----------



## stickg1

Just for fun playing with the LEDs. It might look nice if I get some white LEDs, they look like 3mm.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Just for fun playing with the LEDs. It might look nice if I get some white LEDs, they look like 3mm.


Cute!


----------



## Remizon

Deleted


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yeah I think I might try those for the fittings your not going to be seeing which is like half of them. Where did you get yours from?


They are better looking than BP anyways IMHO.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They are better looking than BP anyways IMHO.


That's what I'm saying! Because other than the giant seahorse/dragon, they are the same fitting. I have 10 of the rotaries and have no leaks, the collar was a little tight to get on the tubing but I think that was partially on the EK ZMT tubing. I don't mind tight though, tight means no leaks!


----------



## Roxxas049

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> She may not be pretty, yet, but man I think I made a good parts selection this time around. Going Barrow instead of Bitspower saved me hundreds.
> 
> I just ordered the next round of adapters I will need to get that pump/res _inside_ the case, lol.


Is that the Ek d5 xrez 140? If so that's a lot bigger than I imagined it would be


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's what I'm saying! Because other than the giant seahorse/dragon, they are the same fitting. I have 10 of the rotaries and have no leaks, the collar was a little tight to get on the tubing but I think that was partially on the EK ZMT tubing. I don't mind tight though, tight means no leaks!


They also have a better colouring than BP. Barrow are a true matte black, while BP is a semi gloss that has a brown tint to it.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> Is that the Ek d5 xrez 140? If so that's a lot bigger than I imagined it would be


Yeah, It's bigger than what I was expecting too, I feel like my EK DDC 150 was much smaller, but then again I had only ever used it in an ATX sized case. I'll make it work, just have to get creative and need more materials.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> She may not be pretty, yet, but man I think I made a good parts selection this time around. Going Barrow instead of Bitspower saved me hundreds.
> 
> I just ordered the next round of adapters I will need to get that pump/res inside the case, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the Ek d5 xrez 140? If so that's a lot bigger than I imagined it would be
Click to expand...

The 140 is generally always a lot bigger than people anticipate haha


----------



## Roxxas049

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> She may not be pretty, yet, but man I think I made a good parts selection this time around. Going Barrow instead of Bitspower saved me hundreds.
> 
> I just ordered the next round of adapters I will need to get that pump/res _inside_ the case, lol.


Is that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah, It's bigger than what I was expecting too, I feel like my EK DDC 150 was much smaller, but then again I had only ever used it in an ATX sized case. I'll make it work, just have to get creative and need more materials.


I planned on putting one on my d5 but crap I don't know if that thing will fit inside my case.... I have a 750d atm but it's kinda..... full"ish"

Thanks for the response.


----------



## stickg1

They do offer a shorter tube but the size of the pump top is still pretty big. Once I get the multitop and other accessories it will make much more sense.

For now, I've got a sidecar


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> Is that
> I planned on putting one on my d5 but crap I don't know if that thing will fit inside my case.... I have a 750d atm but it's kinda..... full"ish"
> 
> Thanks for the response.


That pump looks a bit larger than it is sitting outside of stick's 15" tall Caselabs S3 case. In comparison your 750D is like 22" tall.

The EK-D5 X-RES 140 is 7.6" tall.



I can't really see how it would be all that hard to find a place for it in your case. I've seen many others fit much larger in the case. If I'm not mistaken this looks to be an X-RES 140 in a 750D:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Betakaiser*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> So I got mine all setup now using a Alphacool XT45 fits perfect with a enough room for the 8 pin and fan header cable still have room for a 280 60mm thick in push/pull in the front. Prefer not using the sdd trays if they are not in use.
> 
> Had to drill a extra hole to get the reservoirs clips in place right because Corsair has the bad mounting spot against the case for my tube reservoirs and those ssd trays the little hump to put your finger under to un-clip them is not necessary gets in the way of mounting tube reservoirs with clip mounts had to use washers as spacers to get around the ssd bumps.
> 
> Here is some shots of the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Tuck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a shot for all the people that want to see clearance with top rads this is a 45mm with one set of fans so 70mm thick up top , because 60mm 360 up top is no go on this case unless you shave the fans or your motherboard has different size heatsinks and 8 pin layout.
> 
> 
> The case has very flimsy build quality to it was easy to get bubbles out of the res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because the case was easy to flex the front so wobbly not good for a Obsidian series case I expected better from that Corsair line. My 550D felt more solid than this case and that one is still got alot of plastic in it. All said though its not too bad of a case but this thing could of been nicer if they charge a little more and put thicker panels and raised the height a little for a 60mm rad with clearance.
> 
> One more thing if you want to fix the rattly psu dust cover I use some electrical tape in sliding channels of the cover a few times over and doesn't rattle at all now and slides good still.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> Is that
> I planned on putting one on my d5 but crap I don't know if that thing will fit inside my case.... I have a 750d atm but it's kinda..... full"ish"
> 
> Thanks for the response.


Yeah if you got a big case like that I'd be looking at 250 replacement tubes for it!

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17773/ex-res-463/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Tube_-_250_EK-RES_X3_-_TUBE_250_204mm.html?tl=g57c585s1884

My case is somewhat compact, and it will be a tight squeeze, but it's a mini-ITX build.


----------



## Roxxas049

I would just have to redo some stuff. I have 3 hdd hanging from the 5¼ drive cage. And a ut60 240 on the bottom atm. But yeah it doesn't look so intimidating in the 750 comparably.

[edit] Also I'd like to use the top as a return do I only need this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=g30c97s169#blank and a tube from one of the ports to allow that?


----------



## Betakaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That pump looks a bit larger than it is sitting outside of stick's 15" tall Caselabs S3 case. In comparison your 750D is like 22" tall.
> 
> The EK-D5 X-RES 140 is 7.6" tall.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't really see how it would be all that hard to find a place for it in your case. I've seen many others fit much larger in the case. If I'm not mistaken this looks to be an X-RES 140 in a 750D:


Yes Unic0rnhunter it is a x-res 140 and it fits fine in the case. All I did was drill some new hole and used some washers as spacers to go over the humps in the case. Other than that plenty of room for even bigger tube res if you don't use the hdd cages.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> I would just have to redo some stuff. I have 3 hdd hanging from the 5¼ drive cage. And a ut60 240 on the bottom atm. But yeah it doesn't look so intimidating in the 750 comparably.
> 
> [edit] Also I'd like to use the top as a return do I only need this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=g30c97s169#blank and a tube from one of the ports to allow that?


You can use one of those tops as a return port, that's what I have on my system. You'll also need one of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23944/ex-res-693/EK_X3_Resevoir_Internal_Tube_-_40mm_EK-RES_X3_-_Internal_Tube_1216_40mm.html so the water doesnt splash.


----------



## aaroc

Someone asked if it was worth to have a cleaning loop when I posted pictures of mine. Im updating my buildlog and found the pictures of the debris trapped on the filter. The radiators where previously cleaned with DI and Vinegar. There were four or five pieces on the filter. I think this can block the little fins inside the cpu block. Hope it helps.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I personally love my cleaning/flushing loop, I just set it and walk away while I'm at work or asleep and have had zero issues with my components in Distilled (flush with distilled and primo's sysprep)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> You can use one of those tops as a return port, that's what I have on my system. You'll also need one of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23944/ex-res-693/EK_X3_Resevoir_Internal_Tube_-_40mm_EK-RES_X3_-_Internal_Tube_1216_40mm.html *so the water doesnt splash*.


This, but the internal tube also serves a more important function than keeping the water from splashing in that it will let you still use your reservoir to trap air bubbles. Without the return extending below the fill level any air that found its way to the res will want to escape right out the top tube instead of getting trapped in the res like you need it to so you can bleed your loop, which is pretty much the most important reason for having a res in the first place.

Which leads me to wonder, I notice that there are multiport tops available for Aqualis reservoirs, but they don't seem to have any sort of internal tube for that res that I can find to make use of it. Is there one? Is anyone using an Aqualis res with a top return?


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This, but the internal tube also serves a more important function than keeping the water from splashing in that it will let you still use your reservoir to trap air bubbles. Without the return extending below the fill level any air that found its way to the res will want to escape right out the top tube instead of getting trapped in the res like you need it to so you can bleed your loop, which is pretty much the most important reason for having a res in the first place.
> 
> Which leads me to wonder, I notice that there are multiport tops available for Aqualis reservoirs, but they don't seem to have any sort of internal tube for that res that I can find to make use of it. Is there one? Is anyone using an Aqualis res with a top return?
























well said..+rep


----------



## TTheuns

Hey, has anyone of you used Quick Disconnects on rigid tubing? Or is this impossible?


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Which leads me to wonder, I notice that there are multiport tops available for Aqualis reservoirs, but they don't seem to have any sort of internal tube for that res that I can find to make use of it. Is there one? Is anyone using an Aqualis res with a top return?


Jep. I use a Aqualis with top return


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Hey, has anyone of you used Quick Disconnects on rigid tubing? Or is this impossible?


It's impossible because rigid Tubing is not flexible like normal Tubing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...] Which leads me to wonder, I notice that there are multiport tops available for Aqualis reservoirs, but they don't seem to have any sort of internal tube for that res that I can find to make use of it. Is there one? Is anyone using an Aqualis res with a top return?
> 
> 
> 
> Jep. I use a Aqualis with top return
Click to expand...

So, do you have an internal tube to bring the intake below the fill level of the res? If so what exactly are you using?


----------



## Roxxas049

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This, but the internal tube also serves a more important function than keeping the water from splashing in that it will let you still use your reservoir to trap air bubbles. Without the return *extending below the fill* level any air that found its way to the res will want to escape right out the top tube instead of getting trapped in the res like you need it to so you can bleed your loop, which is pretty much the most important reason for having a res in the first place.
> 
> Which leads me to wonder, I notice that there are multiport tops available for Aqualis reservoirs, but they don't seem to have any sort of internal tube for that res that I can find to make use of it. Is there one? Is anyone using an Aqualis res with a top return?


So if I get the multiport top and the reservoir tube, it must be install so it ends below my water line. Correct?


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> So, do you have an internal tube to bring the intake below the fill level of the res? If so what exactly are you using?


I used a Tube from , i dont remeber exactly , an old Alphacool Res which i found. It has an G1/4" connection thread at one End.

First i want to take a Piece from the acrylic Tube but no Connector will fit because the Thread is to near at the Corner (see Pic)...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> So if I get the multiport top and the reservoir tube, it must be install so it ends below my water line. Correct?


Exactly.


----------



## Shadowline2553

My order is with the shipper now... can't wait... gonna block my cards and add a rad!


----------



## Qu1ckset

How do you guys feel about a mITX board in mATX case?

I have the NCASE M1 V2 ordered and was planning to transfer most my sig rig into it, plus a custom loop, but after seeing the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv , i think im going to get that case as well and either sell or put aside my NCASE M1 V2 away when it arrives... I was looking at the Asus Maximus VI Gene and think it looks rather ugly blocked in comparison to the Asus Maximus VI Impact with the EK-FB ASUS M6I Chipset Block - Nickel/Acetal.

Do you guys think it would look funny? and Impact and Gene have the same overclocking ability right?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Get a Phanteks Mini XL instead of the EVOLV and you can put a Maximus VI Impact and a VI Gene and have both systems in the same case on the same loop. That way you don't have to decide between them.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Get a Phanteks Mini XL instead of the EVOLV and you can put a Maximus VI Impact and a VI Gene and have both systems in the same case on the same loop. That way you don't have to decide between them.


Wait, that case allows dual motherboards? I need to look this up.

Edit: Incredible case, great job again by Phanteks


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Get a Phanteks Mini XL instead of the EVOLV and you can put a Maximus VI Impact and a VI Gene and have both systems in the same case on the same loop. That way you don't have to decide between them.


Mini XL is cool feature wise, but very ugly on the outside, and on top of being ugly imo, it massive!, only reason im even going for the EVOLV is because it so sexy, and has alot of awesome features, as you can see im into smaller cases, currently owning a EVGA Hadron, Have a M1 V2 ordered, no way id get something as big as a Phanteks Mini XL and i have no use for two systems


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Sign me up.



Finally got it finished today.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> Sign me up.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got it finished today.


Your build is awesome. A really nice simple look. Totally up my alley. Congratulations on it.


----------



## tezza192

Just finished up my Bitfenix Prodigy Build

I5 4670K @ 4.5ghz
Radeon R9 290X
16gb Patriot Viper Ram
Corsair AX 760 PSU
MSI Z87 Gaming AC Mini ITX MB
256gb Samsung Evo SSD
1TB WD Black 2.5" HDD
Full custom Water cooling, EK blocks, Pump/Res and XSPC radiators
Corsair Quiet edition SP Fans
AOC Q2770 2560x1440 monitor


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Your build is awesome. A really nice simple look. Totally up my alley. Congratulations on it.


Thank you. But some credit has to go to the HAF XB. That case is just amazingly simple to keep tidy.
Even with the second 360mm rad in the lower half, there is still plenty of room for cable management.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys so I've switched from my monster sized Mountain Mods to a desk sized wet bench and couldn't be happier. Also have moved to the world of 1440p with this stunning ASUS PB278Q monitor. Awww yea!!




...now I just need a new desk


----------



## stickg1

Nice Ravage!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tezza192*
> 
> Just finished up my Bitfenix Prodigy Build
> 
> I5 4670K @ 4.5ghz
> Radeon R9 290X
> 16gb Patriot Viper Ram
> Corsair AX 760 PSU
> MSI Z87 Gaming AC Mini ITX MB
> 256gb Samsung Evo SSD
> 1TB WD Black 2.5" HDD
> Full custom Water cooling, EK blocks, Pump/Res and XSPC radiators
> Corsair Quiet edition SP Fans
> AOC Q2770 2560x1440 monitor
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics!


Are you sure you left any room for air to move in there?

j/k









Nice job cramming so much in that little sucker.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tezza192*
> 
> Just finished up my Bitfenix Prodigy Build
> 
> I5 4670K @ 4.5ghz
> Radeon R9 290X
> 16gb Patriot Viper Ram
> Corsair AX 760 PSU
> MSI Z87 Gaming AC Mini ITX MB
> 256gb Samsung Evo SSD
> 1TB WD Black 2.5" HDD
> Full custom Water cooling, EK blocks, Pump/Res and XSPC radiators
> Corsair Quiet edition SP Fans
> AOC Q2770 2560x1440 monitor
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that mayhems fluid?


----------



## VSG

Used Mayhems Blitz part 1 on an Alphacool Monsta 480, a Phobya G-Changer 120 and a Swiftech MCR120 XP last night:







No points for guessing where most of that came from. I was surprised to see this much though since the Monsta was in a loop for about 2 months with distilled water/Primochill Liquid Utopia and the liquid drained was pretty clear. I also had SysPrep in the beginning which is marketed to clean up a loop. Just goes to show that the SysPrep is probably doing nothing at all.


----------



## Blackops_2

Saw this in the mayhems thread, i've stayed away from alpha cool though just for this reason. Seems like very alphacool build i've seen with pastel has gone south.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Nice Ravage!


Thanks Stick! I was checking out your build, it's looking nice! Glad things are coming together for ya! Man, if you already haven't you NEED to switch to 1440p. Every game looks like the graphics were upgraded and pics and text are ridiculously clear. BEST investment I've made in a long time. Words can't describe it!


----------



## VSG

The only consolation is that this seemed to have stuck on the Alphacool rad and not gone to the waterblocks/other rads. But yes, if you have a sensitive coolant then these rads really need a good scrubbing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Nice Ravage!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Stick! I was checking out your build, it's looking nice! Glad things are coming together for ya! Man, if you already haven't you NEED to switch to 1440p. Every game looks like the graphics were upgraded and pics and text are ridiculously clear. BEST investment I've made in a long time. Words can't describe it!
Click to expand...

I made the switch over a year ago...I would never go back to less than 2560x1440


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I made the switch over a year ago...I would never go back to less than 2560x1440


I agree, just like the first time you had a 8bit soundblaster or 3Dfx Monster on your PC. There is no way to go back


----------



## nismoskyline

So I got a really good deal on two 6990s, and I figured it would be a good upgrade from my now "ancient" 480s. I didn't buy them with waterblocks, and I can't find a place with a decent price for TWO IDENTICAL 6990 blocks. Seems as tho places still want to charge full price (130 dollars) for each block? Why is that? they are older cards now, and i'm not crazy on paying the same amount for waterblocks and gpus. Is there any way around this or do I just have to suck it up and pay the retail price for the blocks?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I made the switch over a year ago...I would never go back to less than 2560x1440


Funny i had Dell U3011 (1600p), Crossover 27Q (1440p) and said the same both times but sold them due to downsizing to a laptop but now im currently in enjoying my Dell U2913WM (2560x1080)

i love the awkward wideness, currently eying the ASUS ROG Swift PG28Q and the LG 34UM95 but i dont know if i can give up IPS and i think i might wait for Dells version of the 34UM95


----------



## derickwm

I'd just sell and take advantage of the tons of cheap Malta 7990s on sale these days...


----------



## Destrto

You could try the Thermospheres from EK. As long as they come with the proper sized spacers.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'd just sell and take advantage of the tons of cheap Malta 7990s on sale these days...


don't exactly have the cash for that....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> You could try the Thermospheres from EK. As long as they come with the proper sized spacers.


they are dual gpu cards tho, so it would be hard to configure that :/


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> don't exactly have the cash for that....
> they are dual gpu cards tho, so it would be hard to configure that :/


Ahh. Yea that would be difficult. You could still try the universal blocks. I've seen only a couple of other people put those together. Would be pretty unique, to say the least.


----------



## derickwm

With your current options (excluding waiting around slowly for 6990 blocks to appear out of the rough) blocks will cost $260.

Lets assume that you get the average price that 6990s are selling for on eBay... ~$225ea. And if you haven't sold your 480s, say another $75ea.

You've got about $600 in cards then. Your current block budget is $260. With $860 you can easily get a single 7990 + full cover block and still have cash to spare. If you stretch it a little and got a good deal (on forums not eBay) then you may be able to get 2 7990s with blocks.

4 way crossfire isn't too great with most games. You'd probably see overall better performance from a single 7990 than twin 6990s imo.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> With your current options (excluding waiting around slowly for 6990 blocks to appear out of the rough) blocks will cost $260.
> 
> Lets assume that you get the average price that 6990s are selling for on eBay... ~$225ea. And if you haven't sold your 480s, say another $75ea.
> 
> You've got about $600 in cards then. Your current block budget is $260. With $860 you can easily get a single 7990 + full cover block and still have cash to spare. If you stretch it a little and got a good deal (on forums not eBay) then you may be able to get 2 7990s with blocks.
> 
> 4 way crossfire isn't too great with most games. You'd probably see overall better performance from a single 7990 than twin 6990s imo.


I was hot for 7990's until I saw the feedback of stuttery mess from more than one impartial source. I would go for one in a heartbeat if I was shown different.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> With your current options (excluding waiting around slowly for 6990 blocks to appear out of the rough) blocks will cost $260.
> 
> Lets assume that you get the average price that 6990s are selling for on eBay... ~$225ea. And if you haven't sold your 480s, say another $75ea.
> 
> You've got about $600 in cards then. Your current block budget is $260. With $860 you can easily get a single 7990 + full cover block and still have cash to spare. If you stretch it a little and got a good deal (on forums not eBay) then you may be able to get 2 7990s with blocks.
> 
> 4 way crossfire isn't too great with most games. You'd probably see overall better performance from a single 7990 than twin 6990s imo.
> 
> 
> 
> I was hot for 7990's until I saw the feedback of stuttery mess from more than one impartial source. I would go for one in a heartbeat if I was shown different.
Click to expand...

Ask @stren to take some benchies for you. He has a pair of them.

I guess I also left out the option that with $860, he could also just pick up a pair of AMD R9-290s + full cover blocks lol.


----------



## nismoskyline

I guess I'll just sell them and use that money towards whatever gpu I can buy with a block already.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> With your current options (excluding waiting around slowly for 6990 blocks to appear out of the rough) blocks will cost $260.
> 
> Lets assume that you get the average price that 6990s are selling for on eBay... ~$225ea. And if you haven't sold your 480s, say another $75ea.
> 
> You've got about $600 in cards then. Your current block budget is $260. With $860 you can easily get a single 7990 + full cover block and still have cash to spare. If you stretch it a little and got a good deal (on forums not eBay) then you may be able to get 2 7990s with blocks.
> 
> 4 way crossfire isn't too great with most games. You'd probably see overall better performance from a single 7990 than twin 6990s imo.
> 
> 
> 
> I was hot for 7990's until I saw the feedback of stuttery mess from more than one impartial source. I would go for one in a heartbeat if I was shown different.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ask @stren
> to take some benchies for you. He has a pair of them.
> 
> I guess I also left out the option that with $860, he could also just pick up a pair of AMD R9-290s + full cover blocks lol.
Click to expand...

Im more interested in actual gameplay opinions,i only bench occasionally for numbers and I dont really put much store in them for gaming perceptions.


----------



## derickwm

Benching/gameplay, same thing to me 

I'm sure he'd give you the skinny on any stutter. He's a lot pickier than I am. I play most of my games on my 765m anyway


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Benching/gameplay, same thing to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure he'd give you the skinny on any stutter. He's a lot pickier than I am. I play most of my games on my 765m anyway


7970m is where it's at!

B Neg: Were the reports you read pre 13.8 drivers? That gave a big fix to the stuttering issue.


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Used Mayhems Blitz part 1 on an Alphacool Monsta 480, a Phobya G-Changer 120 and a Swiftech MCR120 XP last night:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No points for guessing where most of that came from. I was surprised to see this much though since the Monsta was in a loop for about 2 months with distilled water/Primochill Liquid Utopia and the liquid drained was pretty clear. Just goes to show that the Liquid Utopia is probably doing nothing at all.






Liquid Utopia will not help with this, its only meant to be a biocide/anticorrosive it will not help with a dirty rad like what alpacool dishes out.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> Liquid Utopia will not help with this, its only meant to be a biocide/anticorrosive it will not help with a dirty rad like what alpacool dishes out.


Sorry I meant to write SysPrep. But I had Liquid Utopia running in there in the final loop.


----------



## MrGrievous

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Used Mayhems Blitz part 1 on an Alphacool Monsta 480, a Phobya G-Changer 120 and a Swiftech MCR120 XP last night:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No points for guessing where most of that came from. I was surprised to see this much though since the Monsta was in a loop for about 2 months with distilled water/Primochill Liquid Utopia and the liquid drained was pretty clear. Just goes to show that the Liquid Utopia is probably doing nothing at all.






Man seeing that really makes me wish that XSPC carried 140mm versions of their new rads, I want top performing rads which pretty much means it'll be OCool 140mm rads for me


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sorry I meant to write SysPrep. But I had Liquid Utopia running in there in the final loop.


Yeah those alphacool rads are full of gunk and short of the acid bath like the one from Mayhem there is no real way to flush them out completely.


----------



## Roxxas049

Anyone have a source for the EK D5 Xres multiport top? Everyone seems to be out of them at the moment.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> 
> Man seeing that really makes me wish that XSPC carried 140mm versions of their new rads, I want top performing rads which pretty much means it'll be OCool 140mm rads for me


Exactly which 140mm rads from XSPC are the new ones? The EX line, right? OR are you wanting the new V3 RX line? I see a few (EX140, EX280, and EX420) on PPCS from XSPC.


----------



## wermad

Bought this year Feb-Mar, clean as a whistle. I've seen gunk come out of many different makes of radiator. XSPC were ok, Swiftech was cleaner though.

UT60 280/280/420/560/560


----------



## Roxxas049

*Drool* I want that 360. Can't find a good deal on any used ones lately though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> *Drool* I want that 360 *420mm*. Can't find a good deal on any used ones lately though.


Ftfy, they're all 140mm radiators.


----------



## derickwm

PM @Donkey1514, I can't remember if he's selling his or not.


----------



## Roxxas049

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ftfy, they're all 140mm radiators.


Oh snap that's even better.

PS Thanks derickwm I'll do that.


----------



## LiquidHaus

this recent talk of 7990s/7970s makes me glad I still have cards worth talking about


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Absolutely love my 7950s. I've yet to play any one of my games that didn't rip up 1440p with everything set to ultraand most if the time 4x MSAA. Incredible.don't see myself getting rid of them anytime soon.


----------



## jpetrach

NZXT Technologies H440 Mid Tower Chassis? Anyone seen this in action used it? clean case for only ~100$ I got a thing for white cases.





http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Tower-Chassis-Cases/dp/B00I44ES4I/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> NZXT Technologies H440 Mid Tower Chassis? Anyone seen this in action used it? clean case for only ~100$ I got a thing for white cases.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Tower-Chassis-Cases/dp/B00I44ES4I/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t


Ya this is a very nice Case, I like how clean and sleek it is.


----------



## pandrade11

These are long overdue pics of my last build and first loop it sucked because I was in the process of pcsing from Germany so a week after finishing the computer I had to send it and wait a month to get it back here in the states and didn't have a phone at the time to take pictures and I literally just picked it up and took these pics I hope you like it!


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandrade11*
> 
> These are long overdue pics of my last build and first loop it sucked because I was in the process of pcsing from Germany so a week after finishing the computer I had to send it and wait a month to get it back here in the states and didn't have a phone at the time to take pictures and I literally just picked it up and took these pics I hope you like it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandrade11*
> 
> These are long overdue pics of my last build and first loop it sucked because I was in the process of pcsing from Germany so a week after finishing the computer I had to send it and wait a month to get it back here in the states and didn't have a phone at the time to take pictures and I literally just picked it up and took these pics I hope you like it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome!

Where were you at, Ramstein? Kaiserslautern? I lived in Ramstein's air base 3 years.


----------



## pandrade11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Awesome!
> 
> Where were you at, Ramstein? Kaiserslautern? I lived in Ramstein's air base 3 years.


I was in schweinfurt for the last two years but that post is closed in august


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandrade11*
> 
> These are long overdue pics of my last build and first loop it sucked because I was in the process of pcsing from Germany so a week after finishing the computer I had to send it and wait a month to get it back here in the states and didn't have a phone at the time to take pictures and I literally just picked it up and took these pics I hope you like it!


Jesus!! lol that is ALOT OF TUBING.... props for two loops. but maybe you could have done with a little less tubing? looks a bit chaotic in there..
Still dual loops..


----------



## pandrade11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> Jesus!! lol that is ALOT OF TUBING.... props for two loops. but maybe you could have done with a little less tubing? looks a bit chaotic in there..
> Still dual loops..


Yes I thought that too! It is a little congested I have water blocks on my ram, mobo, sli cards and cpu with 3 rads and also dual loops so I tried my best thanks for liking it!


----------



## vaporizer




----------



## Blackops_2

So I caught a deal on a 7970 block & backplate claimed to not have been used because the guy bought it and didn't have a reference card. Just got home to see the block and it looks like there is oxidation on it. He said it was new and had just been sitting in his closet. I'm guessing i got duped to some extent I got it and the backplate for 90$. So simple take down and cleaning should suffice shouldn't it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So I caught a deal on a 7970 block & backplate claimed to not have been used because the guy bought it and didn't have a reference card. Just got home to see the block and it looks like there is oxidation on it. He said it was new and had just been sitting in his closet. I'm guessing i got duped to some extent I got it and the backplate for 90$. So simple take down and cleaning should suffice shouldn't it?


Unless the block was still in its shrink wrap,oxidization is inevitable,he probably never used it as he said.


----------



## derickwm

I don't think you got duped. Copper does that, just clean it up and you'll be good to go.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So I caught a deal on a 7970 block & backplate claimed to not have been used because the guy bought it and didn't have a reference card. Just got home to see the block and it looks like there is oxidation on it. He said it was new and had just been sitting in his closet. I'm guessing i got duped to some extent I got it and the backplate for 90$. So simple take down and cleaning should suffice shouldn't it?
> 
> ]


Even in bubble wrap straight from ek sealed box you can observe a lot of oxidation. He probably never used. Here are some pictures of my block when I opened the sealed boxes:


----------



## Blackops_2

Oh okay. I figured it was just some oxidation but wanted to be sure. Thanks for putting my mind at ease guys


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Awesome!
> 
> Where were you at, Ramstein? Kaiserslautern? I lived in Ramstein's air base 3 years.


You lived with Rammstein?


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Exactly which 140mm rads from XSPC are the new ones? The EX line, right? OR are you wanting the new V3 RX line? I see a few (EX140, EX280, and EX420) on PPCS from XSPC.


I want the new RX V3 line in the 140mm size but I guess the market isn't there yet or something. Yes the ex rads are available in 140 but perform not as good as a OCool or V3


----------



## Janac

http://www.overclock.net/t/1499452/cranberry-cm-690-ii-mod/10#post_22529564

What do u think about that?


----------



## jpetrach

Everyone talking about flow rates and temp's got me thinking can I run without 90 degree fittings and soft tubing? well it turns out I can.
I have brought back the heater core it lowers temps to much to leave it on the shelf. ( 10C )

I also cleaned up the look. using some vinyl. white carbon fiber look. heater core molded into the base. and 140mm fan holder and hard drive holder is sheet metal cut and covered. and 1 radiator hanging off the back. had a lot of time to mess around while processor was in RMA land, it finally made it home today!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I want the new RX V3 line in the 140mm size but I guess the market isn't there yet or something. Yes the ex rads are available in 140 but perform not as good as a OCool or V3


Ahh,ok. I didn't know they had released a new series. What makes the new RX V3 so much better than the EX series?


----------



## DeXel

RX series were always top performing rads and 2 times thicker than EX.


----------



## repo_man

Update from my build log. Finally got to leak testing the water loop yesterday. No issues yet.







2x XSPC EX480 rads, MCP355, EK Supremacy cpu/gpu blocks.


----------



## slothiraptor

After waiting a couple weeks, I finally got the correct multiport top from Frozencpu. Sorry for the dark pic, the lighting in my room sucks.


----------



## Remizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> After waiting a couple weeks, I finally got the correct multiport top from Frozencpu. Sorry for the dark pic, the lighting in my room sucks.


Very nice. what coolant do u use?


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*
> 
> Very nice. what coolant do u use?


Distilled water with mayhems biocide and blood red dye


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ahh,ok. I didn't know they had released a new series. What makes the new RX V3 so much better than the EX series?





Spoiler: See here:



*[Bundymania User Review] Triple Radiator (360) Roundup with 22 Rads !*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> *Test-Results:*
> 
> Delta-T - Difference between air and water temperature. Lower = better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan speed: 600 rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan speed: 800 rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan speed: 1200 rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan speed: 1500 rpm. - i used fans from Phobya
> 
> [...]


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> After waiting a couple weeks, I finally got the correct multiport top from Frozencpu. Sorry for the dark pic, the lighting in my room sucks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good clean build. Great job with cable management!


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Good clean build. Great job with cable management!


Thanks. It looks pretty good in the front but it's a complete mess in the back.


----------



## snef

make some waterblock test fit this morning and found something

need to cut the backplate a little bit,

[/url]
need just a little,

and now the GPU with Block and Backplate



Blue Screw are on order....















I think I will put some coolant to see the contrast of color accent


----------



## Jeronbernal

Looks good snef, lookin good


----------



## Destrto

It's too pretty! Put it away Snef, put it away!


----------



## JLMS2010

Anybody using the *Mayhem X1 Clear coolant*? I filled my loop and the coolant looks very cloudy, almost like a milky white color in the reservoir. I cleaned all the components out very thoroughly before hand. It seems as if there is a residue or film on the tube reservoir. Does this sound normal? I've always used distilled before, and this was my first time using this product. Thanks!


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Anybody using the *Mayhem X1 Clear coolant*? I filled my loop and the coolant looks very cloudy, almost like a milky white color in the reservoir. I cleaned all the components out very thoroughly before hand. It seems as if there is a residue or film on the tube reservoir. Does this sound normal? I've always used distilled before, and this was my first time using this product. Thanks!


Did you clean your components (specially your rads) well before refilling the loop? I had that once but it was mainly due to poor cleaning prior to reassembling the loop as something had contaminated my previous install (dirty rad from factory) and when I reassembled it spread.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Did you clean your components (specially your rads) well before refilling the loop? I had that once but it was mainly due to poor cleaning prior to reassembling the loop as something had contaminated my previous install (dirty rad from factory) and when I reassembled it spread.


Yeah, I cleaned them very well, for a while using hot and cold water. Then rinsed everything with distilled water.


----------



## VSG

If you had that Alphacool UT60 240 in your loop (or more alphacool/phobya rads), that wasn't enough. I did the same as you and it was only an acid bath like with the Mayhems Blitz Part 1 solution that got out the gunk from those rads. Still, X1 isn't as sensitive as Pastel or Aurora.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you had that Alphacool UT60 240 in your loop (or more alphacool/phobya rads), that wasn't enough. I did the same as you and it was only an acid bath like with the Mayhems Blitz Part 1 solution that got out the gunk from those rads. Still, X1 isn't as sensitive as Pastel or Aurora.


Yeah, I have a UT60 360mm & 2 UT60 480mm...but it sounds like I didn't clean them well enough. Lol


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys im planning an upcoming build, and i will most likely be using mATX Asus Maximus Vii Gene (Z97) i know its still new so EK doesn't have blocks out, but for humor i looked up blocks for the M6G and i couldnt find any EK north bridge blocks for the gene, only the impact, formula, and extreme!, do they not make north bride blocks for the asus gene series?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys im planning an upcoming build, and i will most likely be using mATX Asus Maximus Vii Gene (Z97) i know its still new so EK doesn't have blocks out, but for humor i looked up blocks for the M6G and i couldnt find any EK north bridge blocks for the gene, only the impact, formula, and extreme!, do they not make north bride blocks for the asus gene series?


Uh wut. We don't really make NB specific blocks for any modern boards, including the ones you listed.

We make mosfet and southbridge/pch blocks, which the M6G has and M7G will have.


----------



## VSG

There is no north bridge/south bridge anymore. Just MOSFETs and PCH.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Uh wut. We don't really make NB specific blocks for any modern boards, including the ones you listed.
> 
> We make mosfet and southbridge/pch blocks, which the M6G has and M7G will have.


Sorry my bad, i was looking under waterblocks instead of mosfet, brainfart LOL


----------



## Shadowline2553

Would it be okay if I upped the strength of the intial distilled/vinegar cleaning solution to clean out my AlphaCool Nexxos Monsta Rad before running hot water then Distilled with Primochill System Prep fluid? I want to be sure that sucker is clean before I run it an I don't have the money for the Blitz Kit.


----------



## VSG

SysPrep did nothing for me. Your mileage may vary of course but try out a vinegar bath and see how much gunk it gets out.


----------



## Dortheleus

Anyone know where I can find a list of the best performing All In Ones?


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Would it be okay if I upped the strength of the intial distilled/vinegar cleaning solution to clean out my AlphaCool Nexxos Monsta Rad before running hot water then Distilled with Primochill System Prep fluid? I want to be sure that sucker is clean before I run it an I don't have the money for the Blitz Kit.


You can fill it with vinegar as long as you rinse it out real good "real good", there are no short term issues with that cleaner.

Edit: I would not use your pump for this however. if you have a old pump you don't care about then sure. but I am not sure how this affects O rings. no sense wrecking a good pump.
poor method worked good for me. old pot heated on the grill filled with water & vinegar then pored through the rad in the drive way.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> You can fill it with vinegar as long as you rinse it out real good "real good", there are no short term issues with that cleaner.
> 
> Edit: I would not use your pump for this however. if you have a old pump you don't care about then sure. but I am not sure how this affects O rings. no sense wrecking a good pump.
> poor method worked good for me. old pot heated on the grill filled with water & vinegar then pored through the rad in the drive way.


I agree with this completely.

You can use a higher ratio of vinegar to clean out I would just run a couple of flushes of distilled with some baking soda to neutralize any acid left behind and then flush with just pure distilled.

You do not want to run the vinegar mix through your loop though as you would have to manually clean all o rings that come in contact with the solution to prevent deterioration.


----------



## snef

ok more pics

some pics with coolant


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Looks very cool


----------



## wermad

Looks like a smerf factory.....smexy


----------



## snef

Thanks Guys,

loll smerf...... I like it hahahha


----------



## VSG

You should ask for a name change to snerf


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You should ask for a name change to snerf










rofl, I was thinking the same thing!!!!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rofl, I was thinking the same thing!!!!


Cougar owners think alike









Set up the club already, google has many NSFW T-shirts also if you want lol


----------



## MrGrievous

Is there a D5 cover kit available for this pump top, I see the ones EK makes but none of them have a plxi clamp.


----------



## PCSarge

snef that coolant is mayhems aurora blue is it not? im looking for something similar for my ITX build


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Is there a D5 cover kit available for this pump top, I see the ones EK makes but none of them have a plxi clamp.


Thanks

OHHH you edited you message

will answer,

the major reason is , already have a truck load of C47

and the new line is little bit bigger and not sure about 4 black thing printed on fittings

and no, im sure no cover with plexi cap exist for this one


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> snef that coolant is mayhems aurora blue is it not? im looking for something similar for my ITX build


nope, its Mayhem Pastel blueberry, not the Aurora nebula


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> nope, its Mayhem Pastel blueberry, not the Aurora nebula


id love to figure out how the nebula looks. a friend has 2 sealed bottles that hes never used.

ive decided to use Feser One Blue dye and just add it until i get the color i want. i hope it turns out or ill just pour nebula in after a drain.

im only going colored coolant because i have one of the sexy AquaComputer 290 blocks on the way. so i actually will have something to display it in.


----------



## snef

be sure its Aurora 2 if you want to use it in a 24/7 build

just not sure how to know witch one is v1 and others is V2


----------



## MrBlunt

Is there anything else that needs to be changed for inverted mobo? i swapped the sides inverted it, and also flipped the rear. if i redrill holes and re-rivet it, that should be it correct? *this is just a test case i have laying around before i decide to do it to the main one.
i know not quite the right thread, but this thread has i think the most modding experience among it.. so watchya think guys?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> Is there anything else that needs to be changed for inverted mobo? i swapped the sides inverted it, and also flipped the rear. if i redrill holes and re-rivet it, that should be it correct? *this is just a test case i have laying around before i decide to do it to the main one.
> i know not quite the right thread, but this thread has i think the most modding experience among it.. so watchya think guys?


looks fine to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> be sure its Aurora 2 if you want to use it in a 24/7 build
> 
> just not sure how to know witch one is v1 and others is V2


has to be the newer version, he got it around 4 weeks ago from dazmode


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> be sure its Aurora 2 if you want to use it in a 24/7 build
> 
> just not sure how to know witch one is v1 and others is V2


They are clearly marked on Mayhems web shop. I am considering aurora 2 silver. Anyone known if this (the silver) one can be dyed like the supernova clear? Wondering if I can have dye to a really dark grey or perhaps black.

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/aurora-2/aurora-2-concentrate.html

edit - yep, apparently it is the supernova...Silly me, I thought it was the aurora 1...


----------



## snef

how you know it the newer version,? I asked in Mayhem club a minutes ago, will let you know
don't know how much time Daz have it in stock


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> They are clearly marked on Mayhems web shop. I am considering aurora 2 silver. Anyone known if this (the silver) one can be dyed like the supernova clear? Wondering if I can have dye to a really dark grey or perhaps black.
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/aurora-2/aurora-2-concentrate.html
> 
> edit - yep, apparently it is the supernova...


yes, on Mayhem store

but I will not order from UK , pay 2 bottle around 30 pounds and 50 pound for shipping


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> how you know it the newer version,? I asked in Mayhem club a minutes ago, will let you know
> don't know how much time Daz have it in stock


From Mayhems web shop it looks like red, blue and silver are aurora 2.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> be sure its Aurora 2 if you want to use it in a 24/7 build
> 
> just not sure how to know witch one is v1 and others is V2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> how you know it the newer version,? I asked in Mayhem club a minutes ago, will let you know
> don't know how much time Daz have it in stock


bottles are marked V2 aurora on the front.


----------



## snef

ahhhh you make my day

pics on Mayhems web store don't have the V2

will ask Daz if V2 are on bottle

Thanks


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> ahhhh you make my day
> 
> pics on Mayhems web store don't have the V2
> 
> will ask Daz if V2 are on bottle
> 
> Thanks


aurora still explicitly says not for use in anything but a tube res and no complex systems.

id stay with that pastel blue. it actually looks really good snef.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> aurora still explicitly says not for use in anything but a tube res and no complex systems.
> 
> id stay with that pastel blue. it actually looks really good snef.


For sure i will stay with pastel,
But just want to try Aurora and i think this build is perfect to try it


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> For sure i will stay with pastel,
> But just want to try Aurora and i think this build is perfect to try it


im going with feser's uv blue dye... see if i can get an ocean blue color out of it. if i can it should look awesome.


----------



## snef

Yes, sure,
If you can, please update me with the mix
Thanks


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Yes, sure,
> If you can, please update me with the mix
> Thanks


will do, parts and dye/coolant additives should be here tommorow or friday.


----------



## stickg1

I did some tweeking tonight




Yup, everything fits in the case now









(Except for the fan controller which is 1/8" too deep and I need to trim it, but later)


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I did some tweeking tonight
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, everything fits in the case now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Except for the fan controller which is 1/8" too deep and I need to trim it, but later)


Emphises "Good things come in small packages"
You've done a great job fitting all that into an S3, mega props man, well done!









What side panels are you using? Are you making something custom?


----------



## PCSarge

prepping the drill and some machine screws. gonna mod my FC9 back into my case. and then probably change to 2150 rpm GTs


----------



## LiquidHaus

took this quick shot while my rig was stress testing since I had some time.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> took this quick shot while my rig was stress testing since I had some time.


Man, that's a great shot!


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> took this quick shot while my rig was stress testing since I had some time.


You stim up your rig before stress testing?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Is there anyone here that own or has owned a Aquacomputer GIGANT either 1680 or 3360?

I need at least the 1680, but the 3360 is only 215 USD more and the space they take are almost the same (height is no problem).

The hardware I am cooling:
Asus RIVBE (mosfet and chipset)
Intel i7-3930K (planning on overclocking it to 4,5 or more)
4x Sapphire Radeon R9 290X (planning on overclocking with at least 100 mhz on each card)
16GB of Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866 Mhz RAM with 2x EK-Dominator X4 blocks (this will be stock)
Koolance RP-452X2 with 2x Swiftech MCP655's.

As I said I need at least the 1680 and I would like to use top and buttom fans on the radiators (the 180 millimetres).

So will I be better off with the 3360 or the 1680? I guess the 3360 will cool down more wattage passively.


----------



## khemist

I have almost ordered one of these tbh and a simple decent single rad would be enough... i better stay of the beers.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Yeah, I have a UT60 360mm & 2 UT60 480mm...but it sounds like I didn't clean them well enough. Lol


X1 clear takes some time to settle.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> X1 clear takes some time to settle.


It does look a little better, still not nearly the same as it did when it went in.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Emphises "Good things come in small packages"
> You've done a great job fitting all that into an S3, mega props man, well done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What side panels are you using? Are you making something custom?


I have the regular window with bottom ventilation for both left and right side panels. I don't always keep them on though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> X1 clear takes some time to settle.


This, X1 is a good coolant but it can be picky on loop configs. If there's any splashing or turbulence it seems to bubble up heavily, kind of like a soda. Try lowering the pump speed for a bit if possible and it should clear up. Once it's settled the pump can go back up. It took days for all the micro bubbles to settle last time I used X1.


----------



## jpetrach

My cpu prefers N O explode. Overclocking is easer with this stuff!



but seriously love the pic


----------



## skupples

I think "frothy" is a good word to describe X1 Clear. It took mine awhile to settle, but its perfectly clear now.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think "frothy" is a good word to describe X1 Clear. It took mine awhile to settle, but its perfectly clear now.


Yep, that is a good way to describe it. It has probably only run about 8 hours, so I guess I need to give it more time. Lol.


----------



## The EX1

I just drained my old X1 out of my loop and refilled the loop with fresh X1 clear. Like others have said, X1 will froth for 2-3days but then it will settle. Micro bubbles hang around for like a week though.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> took this quick shot while my rig was stress testing since I had some time.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice shot and clean loop.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> My cpu prefers N O explode. Overclocking is easer with this stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> but seriously love the pic


That stuff used to make me feel like my heart would explode but damn it gives you energy. I could lift the weight bench, every single plate, and the gym receptionist.


----------



## Janac

What would say, will DCP 2.2 be enough for my loop? Imagine all the missing tubes









There upside will also be 360mm rad...


----------



## derickwm

Yes.


----------



## Buehlar

I need an engine guys!

What's the latest rumor on the ASUS M7E release date?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> What would say, will DCP 2.2 be enough for my loop? Imagine all the missing tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There upside will also be 360mm rad...


Sorry.. I cant help you there since I cant focus on the loop.. much too busy lookin at all the stickers! Looks awesome







and quite refreshing from all the clean and neat builds that gets posted in here..
CHAOS FTW


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love the sticker bombing in that case and backplate


----------



## Blackops_2

Agreed with baggins that's awesome. Is that the enthoo pro or luxe? Or something else?

So I'm going to disassemble my 7970 block to clean it with lemon juice. From what I've read the citric acid in lemon juice doesn't need to touch the acrylic part of the block. So my question is how do I clean it after I'm done with the lemon juice cleaning? Just soak and rinse in distilled?

Also the gasket I imagine is going to be very hard I get back on. Any tips in doing so?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Agreed with baggins that's awesome. Is that the enthoo pro or luxe? Or something else?
> 
> So I'm going to disassemble my 7970 block to clean it with lemon juice. From what I've read the citric acid in lemon juice doesn't need to touch the acrylic part of the block. So my question is how do I clean it after I'm done with the lemon juice cleaning? Just soak and rinse in distilled?
> 
> Also the gasket I imagine is going to be very hard I get back on. Any tips in doing so?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just rinse well and scrub with hot tap water and then do a final rinse with distilled.

As far as the gaskets, I followed derickwm advise and used ek plugs to weigh the gasket down and keep in place while I put it in the channel, worked like a charm. I have also used capped fittings to the same result.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Man, that's a great shot!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> You stim up your rig before stress testing?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> My cpu prefers N O explode. Overclocking is easer with this stuff!
> 
> but seriously love the pic


thanks guys! oh man yeah dont you guys know? just mix some pre-workout in with the coolant and stress testing goes from normal to EXPLOSIVE.


----------



## Blackspots

Should I go with 10/12 rigid tubing or 12/16 rigid tubing?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Just rinse well and scrub with hot tap water and then do a final rinse with distilled.
> 
> As far as the gaskets, I followed derickwm advise and used ek plugs to weigh the gasket down and keep in place while I put it in the channel, worked like a charm. I have also used capped fittings to the same result.


Does the gasket not sit on the block? Or does it sit on the acrylic part? Sorry this is all new to me.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> What would say, will DCP 2.2 be enough for my loop? Imagine all the missing tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There upside will also be 360mm rad...


I spy a Bloody Beetroots sticker, he's an amazing artist


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> What would say, will DCP 2.2 be enough for my loop? Imagine all the missing tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There upside will also be 360mm rad...


Good job for "thinking inside the box" (pun intended)... The craziness of those stickers takes away from the components, which tend to be the focal point of most builds.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Agreed with baggins that's awesome. Is that the enthoo pro or luxe? Or something else?
> 
> So I'm going to disassemble my 7970 block to clean it with lemon juice. From what I've read the citric acid in lemon juice doesn't need to touch the acrylic part of the block. So my question is how do I clean it after I'm done with the lemon juice cleaning? Just soak and rinse in distilled?
> 
> Also the gasket I imagine is going to be very hard I get back on. Any tips in doing so?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Get a blob of silicone lube between your thumb and finger,draw your oring thru it and stick in place. The silicone lube will coat it and hold it in place on the block perfectly.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> I spy a Bloody Beetroots sticker, he's an amazing artist


Artist(s)


----------



## SortOfGrim

Hi all,

Is it possible to flip this front thingy? (terminal?) In my reversed case the ekwb logo is upside down. Is there something to worry about?


----------



## Kimir

yes.


----------



## VSG

Excuse Kimir, he is French









He meant yes to the part where you can flip it by 180 degrees, not to the part where you were wondering if that's something to worry about.


----------



## jpetrach

I know this is is not the monitor thread but I was wondering if anyone had tried this. I know multi monitor setups are all the rage but at 110 inches this seems sufficient.

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN110S9V-Frameless-110-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O94/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t#productDetails


----------



## DarthBaggins

So any word when or if ek will drop a full block for the gigabyte z97x SOC Force mobo?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Excuse Kimir, he is French
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He meant yes to the part where you can flip it by 180 degrees, not to the part where you were wondering if that's something to worry about.


Eh, yes.


----------



## SortOfGrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> yes.


ty
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Excuse Kimir, he is French
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He meant yes to the part where you can flip it by 180 degrees, not to the part where you were wondering if that's something to worry about.










I got that though


----------



## VSG

It was mostly just a dig at him lol


----------



## Kimir

I figured.








I'm not a fan of tl;dr post, I know I should at least write a sentence, but I was on my phone reading OCN while going to my car, I read only the first part and was like "I know this!" /post
I'll make an effort next time, I swear.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Now I feel like we should randomly throw in a "yes." every now and then to confuse people


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I know this is is not the monitor thread but I was wondering if anyone had tried this. I know multi monitor setups are all the rage but at 110 inches this seems sufficient.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN110S9V-Frameless-110-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O94/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t#productDetails


I don't know about that one, only hdmi inputs I believe plus that 150k price tag would make it a no for me. lol

You'd need at least 2 780ti's or 290x's to run that thing at plus 30 frames if you were gaming, (high ultra)


----------



## Teplous

yes


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I know this is is not the monitor thread but I was wondering if anyone had tried this. I know multi monitor setups are all the rage but at 110 inches this seems sufficient.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN110S9V-Frameless-110-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O94/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t#productDetails


I like how they add the energy star rating on one of the scroll pics.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I know this is is not the monitor thread but I was wondering if anyone had tried this. I know multi monitor setups are all the rage but at 110 inches this seems sufficient.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN110S9V-Frameless-110-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O94/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t#productDetails


size doesn't matter, it will still only show you just as much game space as any other screen/monitor/tv/panel with the same resolution.

Seems like less & less people are going for surround/eyefinity now that larger res screens are dropping in price.


----------



## llamaegg

A (probably dumb) question for you guys, does anyone know of any good tall, skinny bay reservoirs? I'm starting to feel bad for my Caselabs S8, it's got to be feeling pretty alone with how empty it is right now, so I need to finally get off my ass and get back into water cooling!

Originally I was just going to snag 2 nice tube res', but being that I still haven't found a second cheap 780 I'm not not needing two loops (need being a _strong_ word, lol), and have started thinking that a nice tall bay res would be nice being that I literally have nothing in my bays currently, and the only thing I plan to stick in there currently is a Aquaero 6XT, and I guess I should probably stick a dvd drive in there, so it would be nice to fill out that front a bit.

Most of what I've found are only dual bays and are pretty fat.


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> A (probably dumb) question for you guys, does anyone know of any good tall, skinny bay reservoirs? I'm starting to feel bad for my Caselabs S8, it's got to be feeling pretty alone with how empty it is right now, so I need to finally get off my ass and get back into water cooling!
> 
> Originally I was just going to snag 2 nice tube res', but being that I still haven't found a second cheap 780 I'm not not needing two loops (need being a _strong_ word, lol), and have started thinking that a nice tall bay res would be nice being that I literally have nothing in my bays currently, and the only thing I plan to stick in there currently is a Aquaero 6XT, and I guess I should probably stick a dvd drive in there, so it would be nice to fill out that front a bit.
> 
> Most of what I've found are only dual bays and are pretty fat.


I believe the only way you are going to get something like you describe is to custom make one yourself. Have you seen the reservoir B Neg had made to put in his 'CL0S3 IMPACT' build? It's not 'skinny' but it does take up all the bays except the top one for an Aquaero. Here's a guide with tips for making your own acrylic reservoir:

How To Make Your Own Watercooling Reservoir
http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/1

Did you get the window front cover option for your S8? If so it makes for a good location to mount a tube res behind it for that 'tall skinny' look. You could always mount another rad in any unused bays instead of a reservoir.


----------



## royce5950

If you want a long and skinny to reservoir you could ask Bnegative and I believe he either made one or bought one and either of the two weather not he bought it or maybe you could ask him how or where he got it. But if I were you I would consider making a really long front grill for the case like out of honeycomb sheet metal. You can find perforated sheet metal long and skinny sheets of it relatively cheap on Amazon and then you can just paint it whatever color your cases is and put a black screen in it like you would put in a window... But other than that I im going to say I dont think any companies make really long and skinny bay reservoirs..

You could stack two or 3 and get 3 of the same ones. Like ek makes a clear acrylic Bay reservoir that is fully acrylic on the front and it pretty much looks like 1 solid square sheet of acrylic. You could get 3 of those and stack them on top of each other and we wouldn't really notice the lines separating them. But if your not too hands on with tools and such, i can personally do some custom work for you and make you the honeycomb grill or connect the 2 or 3 reservoirs for you by replacing the piece of acrylic on the front of each reservoir by removing the original piece and replacing them with one large clear piece of acrylic that covers all three . Then 1 of the reservoirs Would house the pump while the other 1 or 2 would have tubing connecting the inlets and outlets to each other. So all three are connected and the pump is in the last of the one or two before the components are cooled. My company is in my sig. But if you wanted to do it yourself I'd be more than happy to show you. The grill would be cheaper weather you did it yourself or I did it but I have black screen already. And black paint / clear coat. So if u wanted me to do it id supply my parts free. Youd have to pay shipping and probably just 15 bucks.

Good luck partner.
I want to say sorry in advance though if I'm breaking any rules for advertising my services in this thread.


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe the only way you are going to get something like you describe is to custom make one yourself. Have you seen the reservoir B Neg had made to put in his 'CL0S3 IMPACT' build? It's not 'skinny' but it does take up all the bays except the top one for an Aquaero. Here's a guide with tips for making your own acrylic reservoir:
> 
> How To Make Your Own Watercooling Reservoir
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/1
> 
> Did you get the window front cover option for your S8? If so it makes for a good location to mount a tube res behind it for that 'tall skinny' look. You could always mount another rad in any unused bays instead of a reservoir.


Eh', I was worried about that, it's not the end of the world but it would have been nice, maybe I'll look into building one, we'll see.

And yeah, I got the window front, I was going to actually stick two tube res' behind it if I ended up doing two loops, might still stick one there, contemplating ordering the Rad mount for 120.3, but was planning to sit them top.

Eeeeh, gotta mull this over I guess, lol.


----------



## royce5950

I apologize again for saying tube or to reservoir rather than bay reservoir. I use my tablet alot when I'm on overclock so sometimes I'll use the speech to text function and it's honestly not too on point when it comes 2 things like computer parts lol but if I say  it knows what to do... C? :|


----------



## VSG

Another option would be someone like FrozenQ. Talk to @Steveo2400 and see what they can do. For example, they made one for the NCase M1:


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I know this is is not the monitor thread but I was wondering if anyone had tried this. I know multi monitor setups are all the rage but at 110 inches this seems sufficient.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN110S9V-Frameless-110-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O94/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t#productDetails


It doesn't even have 3D capabilities... Pass.







If I'm going to pay that much for a TV, it better have ALL the bells and whistles on it. Even if some say 3D is a fad.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Royce would you mind changing your avatar back? It is quite annoying to read your posts with that thing blinking on the screen









No offense, just a small petition from a fellow OCer


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> A (probably dumb) question for you guys, does anyone know of any good tall, skinny bay reservoirs? I'm starting to feel bad for my Caselabs S8, it's got to be feeling pretty alone with how empty it is right now, so I need to finally get off my ass and get back into water cooling!
> 
> Originally I was just going to snag 2 nice tube res', but being that I still haven't found a second cheap 780 I'm not not needing two loops (need being a _strong_ word, lol), and have started thinking that a nice tall bay res would be nice being that I literally have nothing in my bays currently, and the only thing I plan to stick in there currently is a Aquaero 6XT, and I guess I should probably stick a dvd drive in there, so it would be nice to fill out that front a bit.
> 
> Most of what I've found are only dual bays and are pretty fat.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the only way you are going to get something like you describe is to custom make one yourself. Have you seen the reservoir B Neg had made to put in his 'CL0S3 IMPACT' build? It's not 'skinny' but it does take up all the bays except the top one for an Aquaero. Here's a guide with tips for making your own acrylic reservoir:
> 
> How To Make Your Own Watercooling Reservoir
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/1
> 
> Did you get the window front cover option for your S8? If so it makes for a good location to mount a tube res behind it for that 'tall skinny' look. You could always mount another rad in any unused bays instead of a reservoir.
Click to expand...





Its only 50mm deep.

Maybe I should make me a batch of these bad boys......


----------



## skupples

watch who you say that to... Admin will come knocking for a cut.


----------



## VSG

He doesn't have to do it here, especially with shipping and import tax to the Americas being a factor. I would love to see the Magoo approved reservoirs being a thing though.


----------



## skupples

nope, simply stating it here makes it intellectual property of Admin & the Queen of Canada.


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its only 50mm deep.
> 
> Maybe I should make me a batch of these bad boys......


_Why_ isn't there something like that in the market! Rabble rabble rabble


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> size doesn't matter, it will still only show you just as much game space as any other screen/monitor/tv/panel with the same resolution.
> 
> Seems like less & less people are going for surround/eyefinity now that larger res screens are dropping in price.


I figured out it has a pixel density of around 38-40 ppi
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> It doesn't even have 3D capabilities... Pass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm going to pay that much for a TV, it better have ALL the bells and whistles on it. Even if some say 3D is a fad.


It comes with 3D glasses, so yeah, its 3D capable

"3D Glasses Included 4 SSG-3550CR"


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> I figured out it has a pixel density of around 38-40 ppi
> It comes with 3D glasses, so yeah, its 3D capable
> 
> "3D Glasses Included 4 SSG-3550CR"


yeah... I also didn't realize that it was a $150,000 120HZ 4K panel.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> It comes with 3D glasses, so yeah, its 3D capable
> 
> "3D Glasses Included 4 SSG-3550CR"


I didn't see that feature on the Amazon page, so I looked it up elsewhere. Still, a bit much for a 110 inch 4K tv. I'd expect a high five digit cost for that, not a six figure one. Not when the price of 4K tvs are dropping every week.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I didn't see that feature on the Amazon page, so I looked it up elsewhere. Still, a bit much for a 110 inch 4K tv. I'd expect a high five digit cost for that, not a six figure one. Not when the price of 4K tvs are dropping every week.


Its listed all the way at the bottom with the other models in this class.


----------



## MrBlunt

anyone know of any way to connect FC terminal style EKFC290x waterblock with an acrylic csq style acrylic bridge? I have all these sli blocks, and i think i just figured out i wont be able to use them.
These two connectors on the right. how do i connect them to an FC waterblock.. is there an adapter?


----------



## Pheozero

I don't think it's possible to connect them at all. There wasn't an adapter made for them either, iirc.


----------



## jpetrach

so apparently i lost the silicon chance game the first time. i could not keep my processor above 4.1 no matter the voltage lvl. let alone use the auto over clocker that came with the ASUS gene. but after i RMA the processor. now 4.2 with the over clocking tool. YAY


----------



## salted_cashews

Does any one else notice the little smiling man in BNeg's build due to the backplate?

Also that TV has a 4 month wait....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salted_cashews*
> 
> Does any one else notice the little smiling man in BNeg's build due to the backplate?
> 
> Also that TV has a 4 month wait....


it is probably fab to order.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> anyone know of any way to connect FC terminal style EKFC290x waterblock with an acrylic csq style acrylic bridge? I have all these sli blocks, and i think i just figured out i wont be able to use them.
> These two connectors on the right. how do i connect them to an FC waterblock.. is there an adapter?


Cannot be done.


----------



## wermad

What Derick said









Solution, ?:

EK 290X CSQ or buy a Terminal bridge


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What Derick said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solution, ?:
> 
> EK 290X CSQ or buy a Terminal bridge


lol I have got the same problem on my build. I will buy a terminal bridge.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Removed the bitspower flow meter, and replaced it with a aquacomputer flow meter, and tucked it away







also added some inline probes, full aquaero automation :3 and added a CCFL uptop


----------



## SeeThruHead

Guys think I could fit some watercooling in this case?



Maybe a 240 in the bottom? possible a 120 on the exhaust? I don't want to cut up anything but the bottom. Going to likely be a 4670k and a 760.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Removed the bitspower flow meter, and replaced it with a aquacomputer flow meter, and tucked it away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also added some inline probes, full aquaero automation :3 and added a CCFL uptop


The colored backplates look amazing. Gold is not my color.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

My system:

3930K, 4x R9 290X, RIVBE, 16 GB RAM, all cooled with water.

Will this be sufficent radiator area for these components (overclocked slightly): 2x Alphacool Monsta 480s, 2x EK-XTX240s, 2x EK-XT120s?


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> My system:
> 
> 3930K, 4x R9 290X, RIVBE, 16 GB RAM, all cooled with water.
> 
> Will this be sufficent radiator area for these components (overclocked slightly): 2x Alphacool Monsta 480s, 2x EK-XTX240s, 2x EK-XT120s?


You could do the math of calculating tdp and what rad surface you need to dissipate it, but you should def be good, maybe even lose the 120 rads and 1 240 if price/space becomes an issue


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Now I feel like we should randomly throw in a "yes." every now and then to confuse people


Yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Guys think I could fit some watercooling in this case?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a 240 in the bottom? possible a 120 on the exhaust? I don't want to cut up anything but the bottom. Going to likely be a 4670k and a 760.


Almost looks like you could fit a 240 on the front and the bottom with little effort, maybe even a 280 on the front.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Guys think I could fit some watercooling in this case?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a 240 in the bottom? possible a 120 on the exhaust? I don't want to cut up anything but the bottom. Going to likely be a 4670k and a 760.


What case is that?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> You could do the math of calculating tdp and what rad surface you need to dissipate it, but you should def be good, maybe even lose the 120 rads and 1 240 if price/space becomes an issue


Yes, I pretty much have done the math, it is 1300 wattage + of power so it should be good enough, but I do not know exactly how much the RIVBE and the RAM uses of wattage.

I already own all the rads and I like to use all of them so I do not get any spare parts, I have already made a radiator stand that will hose all the radiators with fans, I only wondered if I should get a MO-RA3 1080 or 1260 too to be sure of the temperatures when it get overclocked.

I guess the system will draw at least 1500-1600 wattage with overclocks, maybe more. My EVGA G2 1300W is cutting it close at full load with everything at stock.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cannot be done.


lol i already have both waterblocks.. =( i was really looking forwared to the clear bridge.. i might have to swap my 780ti's over to it than. those still need waterblocks.. so this time i can pay a little more attention to what i'm getting. i dont understand why there is no clear acrylic fc bridge =\ bums me out.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Guys think I could fit some watercooling in this case?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a 240 in the bottom? possible a 120 on the exhaust? I don't want to cut up anything but the bottom. Going to likely be a 4670k and a 760.
> 
> 
> 
> Almost looks like you could fit a 240 on the front and the bottom with little effort, maybe even a 280 on the front.
Click to expand...

Is that a Rosewill Legacy U3-B?
That's what it looks like to me, and if so it's 208mm x 270mm x 359mm (W x D x H) case.
A 240mm rad usually runs over 275mm length. So a 240 in the bottom would be a no-go.
A 10.5" (267mm) GPU looks like it just barely fit in there, and if you look at the 120 fan just above it on the back of the case you can see there would only be room for a 120 rad in the front with a card that long. And even if you did that or even went with a short 6.75" PCB CPU like a reference GTX 670/760 then you might have room for a 240 in the front but then in either case you'd have to deal with modding the front of the case to accept it.



Would you really want to cut a fan grill in the front of that? More practically you _might_ be able to squeeze in a pump/res on the front above the card and a 120 rad on the back and a 120/140 rad in the bottom.

edit: Doesn't look like there would be room for the ports for a 120 rad on the back.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What Derick said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solution, ?:
> 
> EK 290X CSQ or buy a Terminal bridge


That's a mighty fine looking block there... But I like mine non CSQ'd.

I wonder if EK has considered a CSQ style block, but with a non CSQ pattern, and non CSQ bridge. Had that been available, they would have had my money a long time ago.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cannot be done.


Speaking of which... How are you guys coming along with that terminal bridge?

It's been a couple of months since I last asked.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What Derick said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solution, ?:
> 
> EK 290X CSQ or buy a Terminal bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a mighty fine looking block there... But I like mine non CSQ'd.
> 
> I wonder if EK has considered a CSQ style block, but with a non CSQ pattern, and non CSQ bridge. Had that been available, they would have had my money a long time ago.
Click to expand...

Those long CSQ 290 blocks look really nice when you polish them . . . . The design keeps them from looking too plain, but yet it's not that distractingly noticeable.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Those long CSQ 290 blocks look really nice when you polish them . . . . The design keeps them from looking too plain, but yet it's not that distractingly noticeable.


How do you polish the blocks (for any video card block, actually), so they look nice and shiny? I wonder why they aren't polished out of the factory?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> How do you polish the blocks (for any video card block, actually), so they look nice and shiny? I wonder why they aren't polished out of the factory?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks/0_20


----------



## dervladimir

Hi, sorry for noob's Q... which option is best?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks/0_20


lowfat be creeping, just waitin' for someone to ask about dat polish.


----------



## gponcho

Quote: All I can say B is, it's a piece of Art! Well done!











> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its only 50mm deep.
> 
> Maybe I should make me a batch of these bad boys......


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> Hi, sorry for noob's Q... which option is best?


None of those. All rads should be intake. Anything else can be exhaust.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> lowfat be creeping, just waitin' for someone to ask about dat polish.


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> None of those. All rads should be intake. Anything else can be exhaust.


U mean funs on rads must work on push? It is no problem... Q about case... if all the rads will work intake then in case will be too hot... or U mean something else?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> Hi, sorry for noob's Q... which option is best?


I like option one the most.. about the same amount of air coming in as going out.
Do you have dust filters for the front and bottom radiators?


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> I like option one the most.. about the same amount of air coming in as going out.


now work by first option

but I was advised to install all rad's on exhaust
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Do you have dust filters for the front and bottom radiators?


only on front, case corsair 750d


----------



## VSG

Rads with the fans taking in cooler air work best. If most of your components are watercooled, don't worry about higher case temps and such.


----------



## PCSarge

but but... ITX loops cause...







and yes.that is a 290 in a prodigy. lol


----------



## MiiX

Does anyone have the dimensions of the EK CSQ 90-degree fittings?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Those long CSQ 290 blocks look really nice when you polish them . . . . The design keeps them from looking too plain, but yet it's not that distractingly noticeable.


EK is going to slap their logo on it anyway, so I doubt that it would look plain. I'd even be okay if they did an old school engraved logo like they have on their earlier 2011 RIVE blocks.

It would be the beauty of having blocks where you can see right through them without any design obstructions, and to only see the coolant churning through. Polished CSQ blocks are nice and all, but if EK had a smooth acrylic bridge link block where you can see everything, then that might be more appealing to their other niche customer base that has their non CSQ blocks. They already sell the non CSQ acrylic blocks for a few applications, and it appears to be selling well, so why not create some sort of adaptive bridge link similar to the CSQ, that can connect to the existing terminal... I'd be okay with that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Man cave has been redecorated against my will......


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Man cave has been redecorated against my will......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why is there a flower in a teacup?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> now work by first option
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I was advised to install all rad's on exhaust
> only on front, case corsair 750d


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Rads with the fans taking in cooler air work best. If most of your components are watercooled, don't worry about higher case temps and such.


Agree.. but it will only be a few degrees cooler air, and with both exhaust and intake, the air will be colder in the case hence not any real difference.. also if all fans are intake, you will get a lot more dust in the case unless you go with filters, witch again lowers cooling ability.

I had my 240(front) and 120(rear) as intake, and my case temp got quite high.. change the 120 to exhaust and my case temp dropped dramatically and my water temp actually dropped 1 degree (ambient accounted for).
I guess the hot case air would heat up the tubes / water blocks / res.

As I said, I like option one the best, also vs all intake.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> lowfat be creeping, just waitin' for someone to ask about dat polish.
Click to expand...

Put the guide in your sig








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Man cave has been redecorated against my will......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks lovely









But, hardly a room to describe as a "man-cave"







call it the "den" or the "office"


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> As I said, I like option one the best, also vs all intake.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Rads with the fans taking in cooler air work best. If most of your components are watercooled, don't worry about higher case temps and such.


ok, thanks


----------



## mxthunder

some "updated" pic of my rig.
probably no more upgrades for the next few years besides some SSD's and larger HDD's this winter.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cannot be done.
> 
> 
> 
> lol i already have both waterblocks.. =( i was really looking forwared to the clear bridge.. i might have to swap my 780ti's over to it than. those still need waterblocks.. so this time i can pay a little more attention to what i'm getting. i dont understand why there is no clear acrylic fc bridge =\ bums me out.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Cannot be done.
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of which... How are you guys coming along with that terminal bridge?
> 
> It's been a couple of months since I last asked.
Click to expand...

Oh you know... done already.


----------



## brandotip

I'll be finishing my cpu/gpu loop this week and I have new uv lights in my white case.. It looks AMAZING, but how on earth do I get the light to show purple and not blue in photographs? Anyone with experience photographing UV lit cases?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> I'll be finishing my cpu/gpu loop this week and I have new uv lights in my white case.. It looks AMAZING, but how on earth do I get the light to show purple and not blue in photographs? Anyone with experience photographing UV lit cases?


This may help you

http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> This may help you
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig


Thank you, but the problem I'm having is that UV purple led lighting appears blue in my photos and videos. I believe it has to do with the camera not being able to see the uv portion (higher frequency) of the light spectrum; seeing as blue comes right before purple (uv). That guide only has basic tips, and the first 20 pages hadn't a mention of photographing UV lights. I appreciate the effort though


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Man cave has been redecorated against my will......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hm... Must be the camera angle... My AQ6XT screen doesn't look that blue/purple.

The Tiger lily... I use to love them, but they are in literally EVERY single office down here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Thank you, but the problem I'm having is that UV purple led lighting appears blue in my photos and videos. I believe it has to do with the camera not being able to see the uv portion (higher frequency) of the light spectrum; seeing as blue comes right before purple (uv). That guide only has basic tips, and the first 20 pages hadn't a mention of photographing UV lights. I appreciate the effort though












i swear this is lit with white LED, only the window is blue.


----------



## ginger_nuts

If you can, I would turn all the ambient lights off, then use a longer exposure time.

Oh use a tripod or books, any movement will make it blurry. You may also need to play with the ISO setting a bit.

P.S. I am no good at taking photo's either.

*Has anyone ever used one of THESE drain valves ? Do they work as Koolance mentions ? Or do they make a mess when you remove the cap ?*


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If you can, I would turn all the ambient lights off, then use a longer exposure time.
> 
> Oh use a tripod or books, any movement will make it blurry. You may also need to play with the ISO setting a bit.
> 
> P.S. I am no good at taking photo's either.
> 
> *Has anyone ever used one of THESE drain valves ? Do they work as Koolance mentions ? Or do they make a mess when you remove the cap ?*


I've done all that in addition to playing with the white balance... Exp +2 and -2, ISO =100, HDR on and off, and basically every other setting that I could find that would affect color. The thing is I can't even find anything about photographing uv lights on google.. All the searches come up with uv photography which isn't the same thing. Even the uv pics if see on OCN after searching are predominately clear of colored light and are just showcasing fluorescent parts like tubing and coolant. I can take amazing pictures but the light is always blue. Thank you again for your suggestions @ginger_nuts !

And also I purchased a similar koolance drain valve that will go in my rig on Tuesday


My plan is to put it over a deep bowl when draining


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If you can, I would turn all the ambient lights off, then use a longer exposure time.
> 
> Oh use a tripod or books, any movement will make it blurry. You may also need to play with the ISO setting a bit.
> 
> P.S. I am no good at taking photo's either.
> 
> *Has anyone ever used one of THESE drain valves ? Do they work as Koolance mentions ? Or do they make a mess when you remove the cap ?*
> 
> 
> 
> I've done all that in addition to playing with the white balance... Exp +2 and -2, ISO =100, HDR on and off, and basically every other setting that I could find that would affect color. The thing is I can't even find anything about photographing uv lights on google.. All the searches come up with uv photography which isn't the same thing. Even the uv pics if see on OCN after searching are predominately clear of colored light and are just showcasing fluorescent parts like tubing and coolant. I can take amazing pictures but the light is always blue. Thank you again for your suggestions @ginger_nuts !
> 
> And also I purchased a similar koolance drain valve that will go in my rig on Tuesday
> 
> 
> My plan is to put it over a deep bowl when draining
Click to expand...

Have you tried shooting in RAW mode and then doing some color correction? I'm not photography expert but that might help.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Hm... Must be the camera angle... My AQ6XT screen doesn't look that blue/purple.
> 
> The Tiger lily... I use to love them, but they are in literally EVERY single office down here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i swear this is lit with white LED, only the window is blue.


Love the SC emblem... Is there UV inside the rig as well as white? Or is the blue windows from UV inside the case?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Have you tried shooting in RAW mode and then doing some color correction? I'm not photography expert but that might help.


Unfortunately I do not have the ability to shoot in RAW mode


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Have you tried shooting in RAW mode and then doing some color correction? I'm not photography expert but that might help.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I do not have the ability to shoot in RAW mode
Click to expand...

Hmm that might be it then


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Love the SC emblem... Is there UV inside the rig as well as white? Or is the blue windows from UV inside the case?
> Unfortunately I do not have the ability to shoot in RAW mode


window is blue from 4x 3MM blue LEDs mounted inside the glass.








thanks, had fellow OCN member do it.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hmm that might be it then


Upon further research it seems the lenses on most cameras contain uv blockers.. Ugh lol


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> window is blue from 4x 3MM blue LEDs mounted inside the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, had fellow OCN member do it.


Something about that humid Florida air makes us crazy for that game


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Something about that humid Florida air makes us crazy for that game


apparently... we may possibly crave the cold of space after walking in from the mail box in 100F with 900% humidity.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> apparently... we may possibly crave the cold of space after walking in from the mail box in 100F with 900% humidity.


Feeling the pain up here in Delray lol today was gruesome


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Feeling the pain up here in Delray lol today was gruesome


yeah... and I spent most of the day re-screening sections of the pool... Hasn't been done since Andrew.

anyways, as to not enrage the monster dog that lives under B's bed...



don't think I ever shared this one of my 900D.

cellphone pic ftw.


----------



## phynce

Have tried playing with white balance if it's in florescent white balance I think it will give a blue tint sample a white section in your case if possible


----------



## brandotip

So this is the best Ive gotten so far, sorry the WC components arent in it yet... thats on Tuesday









I must say it looks way better on my computer screen then ipad/Galaxy s5 but the true color is still significantly more vibrant purple... the picture was taken this morning and I actually did acheive best results by changing tint.. so good idea @phynce


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yeah... and I spent most of the day re-screening sections of the pool... Hasn't been done since Andrew.
> 
> anyways, as to not enrage the monster dog that lives under B's bed...
> 
> 
> 
> don't think I ever shared this one of my 900D.
> 
> cellphone pic ftw.


Looking good, but totally need to use some black electric tape or something over those Swiftech labels on the pumps 

Edit: I'm an idiot. Completely forgot you tore that down and built into a STH-10.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Looking good, but totally need to use some black electric tape or something over those Swiftech labels on the pumps


hehe... That case is long gone now. Sold it to a guy looking to do a father & son project. He happened to be a fabricator, so it turned out really nice!

Those pumps are now clad in the EK-DDC housings.


----------



## Blackspots

Ok, I decided that the water cooling build that I'll do will be flex tube. Had I gone with rigid and what you see in the render, it would be nearly $1500 to. Instead, its $1100. I COULD however, go with rigid and learn to bend the tube, and it would be just slightly more.



--EDIT--
Ok, flex tubing would be $1096.98. If I did rigid and bent it, it would be $1075.96. Doing rigid with all the fittings seen in the picture would have been something like $1496.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You should learn to bend it like Beckham.


----------



## Destrto

If you go with Rigid tubing, take off all the fittings except the 2 needed for each actual component.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> If you go with Rigid tubing, take off all the fittings except the 2 needed for each actual component.


Yeah, I pretty much decided to do that (a pack of 10 primochill rigid fittings, and a bitspower 90 degree for the GPU). Gonna buy two Primochill fittings and a tube so I can learn how to bend the tubing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yeah, I pretty much decided to do that (a pack of 10 primochill rigid fittings, and a bitspower 90 degree for the GPU). Gonna buy two Primochill fittings and a tube so I can learn how to bend the tubing.


Do your wallet a favor and get yourself three or more 6' tubes from McMaster-Carr or US Plastics to learn & practice with. If, after you have gotten your technique down, you feel you need colored or UV acrylic from Primochill or Monsoon, then spend the extra funds on it. fwiw, I went through more than 12 feet of acrylic before I getting consistent bends that weren't destined for the bin.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Do your wallet a favor and get yourself three or more 6' tubes from McMaster-Carr or US Plastics to learn & practice with. If, after you have gotten your technique down, you feel you need colored or UV acrylic from Primochill or Monsoon, then spend the extra funds on it. fwiw, I went through more than 12 feet of acrylic before I getting consistent bends that weren't destined for the bin.


Definitely +1 this for practice. I had to straighten my act up quick once I messed up my first bend.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Do your wallet a favor and get yourself three or more 6' tubes from McMaster-Carr or US Plastics to learn & practice with. If, after you have gotten your technique down, you feel you need colored or UV acrylic from Primochill or Monsoon, then spend the extra funds on it. fwiw, I went through more than 12 feet of acrylic before I getting consistent bends that weren't destined for the bin.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Definitely +1 this for practice. I had to straighten my act up quick once I messed up my first bend.


Oh, wow. That's cheap. Ok, I'm gonna definitely do that. For US Plastics, I would have to order 18 to get 3 6' tubes?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Also, 9mm o-ring cord from mcmaster-carr works great as a bending insert for 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD tube (as suggested by IT Diva). It works a lot better than the cords sold by Primochill or Monsoon. edit: I actually haven't even tried using the cord that came with the Monsoon bending kit as it's too short to be practical imho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Oh, wow. That's cheap. Ok, I'm gonna definitely do that. For US Plastics, I would have to order 18 to get 3 6' tubes?


I've ordered from McMaster-Carr, not US Plastics, so I'm not sure but that is what the page seems to say. It says their tube is sold by the foot but must be ordered in 6' lengths. Keep in mind that shipping will cost a bit for 6' tube. I think it cost around $20 shipping for my order from McMaster-Carr, and iirc they didn't even list the shipping costs or details at the time of sale. They do have super fast shipping though. It was at my door two days later and that never happens where I live.

Do be sure to have a review of the Acrylic pipebending 101 thread for tips/advice so you're not going into it blind like I was & maybe you won't make so much scrap.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Also, 9mm o-ring cord from mcmaster-carr works great as a bending insert for 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD tube (as suggested by IT Diva). It works a lot better than the cords sold by Primochill or Monsoon. edit: I actually haven't even tried using the cord that came with the Monsoon bending kit as it's too short to be practical imho.
> I've ordered from McMaster-Carr, not US Plastics, so I'm not sure but that is what the page seems to say. It says their tube is sold by the foot but must be ordered in 6' lengths. Keep in mind that shipping will cost a bit for 6' tube. I think it cost around $20 shipping for my order from McMaster-Carr, and iirc they didn't even list the shipping costs or details at the time of sale. They do have super fast shipping though. It was at my door two days later and that never happens where I live.
> 
> Do be sure to have a review of the Acrylic pipebending 101 thread for tips/advice so you're not going into it blind like I was & maybe you won't make so much scrap.


Well, I just accidentally ordered from McMaster-Carr (I didn't add my payment details, just clicked "open account"). But that shipping costs makes it more expensive than buying a primochill tube and two fittings from FrozenCPU. Also, I watched the video that FrozenCPU has for the PrimoChill tube/fittings.

--EDIT--
Actually, I took advantage of that and ordered the tubes and the 9mm bending insert. Evidently you can edit your order by adding the purchase order to the page and then click order.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Any word on the the HWlabs Black Ice® NEMESIS® Radiators?? are they good?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any word on the the HWlabs Black Ice® NEMESIS® Radiators?? are they good?


Getting two in on Tuesday, will let you know then!


----------



## siffonen

Currently making few changes to my system, i decided to ditch my 360 rad and use only a 480 UT60 with push-pull which is probably enough for my system.
I have my gpu`s linked with EK bridge, but they are in pci-e slots 1&2, so they run at 16x(nf200) and 8x native.
Should i remove the bridge and use slots 1&3 which is also recommended in mb user manual, and then connect gpus whit acryclic tubing in parallel? I like the way that ek bridge makes gpus a solid package, but they arent running at optimal performance.

Also how does the back part of d5 (where the speed knob is ) can be removed? I want to check the blue rpm wires connection to pcb, because i cant get a rpm readout from the pump.


----------



## MrBlunt

@skupples how did you get your window done like that?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any word on the the HWlabs Black Ice® NEMESIS® Radiators?? are they good?


I have seen the GTS being used a few times. They have an extremely aggressive finish to them which I definitely do not like. I would stick w/ SR1s personally on that fact alone. Aesthetics is why I buy HWLabs, and they went and uglified them.


----------



## SinatraFan

Is there a way to control fan speeds that are connected to motherboard headers while in windows 7?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any word on the the HWlabs Black Ice® NEMESIS® Radiators?? are they good?


I have one albeit, without the NEMESIS® nor the XFlow 360 . And it is on par to an RX360 rev 1 and 2 with same fans on my rig. It will be better than the RX with higher rpm fans I wager but flow restriction negates it.
NEMESIS® seemed to have taken care of that I think.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Is there a way to control fan speeds that are connected to motherboard headers while in windows 7?


Depends on the board. MSI may have software for fan control.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Is there a way to control fan speeds that are connected to motherboard headers while in windows 7?


MSI Control Center


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> MSI Control Center


Thanks!!! just what the Dr ordered.


----------



## Shadowline2553

End of this summer going to do an FX build for my 2nd Cousin, with a Eisberg 240L.. Hope that's enough to keep a monster 9590 cool.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Getting two in on Tuesday, will let you know then!


Take some Pics!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have seen the GTS being used a few times. They have an extremely aggressive finish to them which I definitely do not like. I would stick w/ SR1s personally on that fact alone. Aesthetics is why I buy HWLabs, and they went and uglified them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I have one albeit, without the NEMESIS® nor the XFlow 360 . And it is on par to an RX360 rev 1 and 2 with same fans on my rig. It will be better than the RX with higher rpm fans I wager but flow restriction negates it.
> NEMESIS® seemed to have taken care of that I think.


Ive always gone with HWlabs Black Ice radiators for all my builds watercooling builds ive done. (GTX Gen Two Xtreme pair with AP15's). Saw the Nemesis at first and thought meh ugly, but after looking at them more im growing an attraction to them, and the claimed improvements sound amazing, wish there was some reviews available!
Quote:


> *Nemesis GTX*
> _16 FPI 25 Micron Copper Fins_
> Now optimized for sub-800 rpm ultra-stealth fans
> Supercruise optimizations for scalable performance with higher speed fans
> 15% more tubing area in the same Black Ice® GTX™ 240 form factor
> _Increased internal coolant flow rates_


Quote:


> *GEN Two Xtreme*
> _Radically optimized 20 FPI (Fins Per Inch) fin density providing dramatically increased heat transfer surface area._


After doing a quick good search for pics i don't think the rad looks that ugly..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> @skupples how did you get your window done like that?


Had a member here take his laser cutter to it. Only issue is that i forgot to supply him with the vector file, so it isn't perfect, but looks good enough from far away.

This type of etching has better results with higher quality acrylic, so the CaseLabs Cell Cast Acrylic was a perfect candidate.


----------



## llamaegg

speaking of ordering acrylic tubing, anyone know a good site to order in Canada? Hoping to find an easy access to some cheap tubing to practice with.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> After doing a quick good search for pics i don't think the rad looks that ugly..


They don't. Its just people talking to much. I personally like the textured finish.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> speaking of ordering acrylic tubing, anyone know a good site to order in Canada? Hoping to find an easy access to some cheap tubing to practice with.


DazMode


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> DazMode


Oh, I know about dazmodes selection,but its not really what i consider cheap for practicing on. I was hoping something closer to the pricing McMaster-Carr has. $10 for 3 feet or $4 for 6. One you feel way better about screwing up on.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Dazmode's prices tend to be quite a bit higher compared to the competitors.


----------



## derickwm

Fair enough


----------



## dervladimir

installed new radiators ... temporarily decided to use such a scheme сooling radiators


----------



## PCSarge

i introduce you to. what happens when our ITX board goes poof and we want to keep gaming.

temporary specs:

i5 [email protected] 3.6ghz w/ EK block
EVGA P55 Classified 200
Radeon R9 290 w/ AquaComputer Hawaii Block
16GB of HyperX Black
1 WD Blue 500GB (windows 7 for this board)
2x WD Blacks (with my games and work files on them)
MCP 35X 10W w/ EK X-Top
Bitspower Water Tank-Z 80
EK Coolstream PE 240 + 120
3x Cougar fans
HX 750 out of ITX Rig

my desk now looks like this on the end. but *ace ventura voice* ITS ALIIIIVEEE!:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Dazmode's prices tend to be quite a bit higher compared to the competitors.


I live 20-30mins from where Dazmode's warehouse is, sucks they don't let you do pickups, so with there higher prices and always being out of stock on certain items i take my business to Performance-pcs


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> speaking of ordering acrylic tubing, anyone know a good site to order in Canada? Hoping to find an easy access to some cheap tubing to practice with.


I don't think any exist. I buy Primochill tubing from FCPU due to the fact that it isn't really available online in Canada anywhere. Plus 500mm pieces of tubing are IMO too short.


----------



## Ght10

My little gaming rig












Not quite finished


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't think any exist. I buy Primochill tubing from FCPU due to the fact that it isn't really available online in Canada anywhere. Plus 500mm pieces of tubing are IMO too short.


off topic but the cpu in your sig is wrong... i5 4770k? lol


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> off topic but the cpu in your sig is wrong... i5 4770k? lol










Well at one point it was a 4670k about a year ago. Guess I never fixed it properly.


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't think any exist. I buy Primochill tubing from FCPU due to the fact that it isn't really available online in Canada anywhere. Plus 500mm pieces of tubing are IMO too short.


Bummer, it's what i was afraid of, not the end of the world but definitely annoying. Do you snag the 24'' or 36'' length tubes?


----------



## skupples

Bad ass mini-PC right there! I thought it was an X-box at first.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> Bummer, it's what i was afraid of, not the end of the world but definitely annoying. Do you snag the 24'' or 36'' length tubes?


24" is pretty much long enough for runs in most cases. Unless you have an extremely large case where you think you will need a run that long I wouldn't bother buying 36" ones.


----------



## repo_man

Finished plumbing everything in Silentium.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *repo_man*
> 
> Finished plumbing everything in Silentium.


That looks gorgeous!


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 24" is pretty much long enough for runs in most cases. Unless you have an extremely large case where you think you will need a run that long I wouldn't bother buying 36" ones.


Good to know, guess I'll snag an order of the 12x24'' pack and some fittings once I figure out what ones to snag. And I guess some tools, still need an insert for sure.


----------



## xlink64

Upgraded a bit


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks gorgeous!


Thanks! Here's one more


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any word on the the HWlabs Black Ice® NEMESIS® Radiators?? are they good?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Getting two in on Tuesday, will let you know then!


I haven't got it plumbed yet but I had a post a few pages back about the finish.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Impulse buy... I'm really not digging the finish on this Nemesis 480GTS...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll be hidden away for the most part. I just don't like the thought of cleaning the dust off that finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## skupples

did you build that out of repossessed car parts?

I kid I kid... Looks great!


----------



## Lefik

I'm cleaning my board and replacing the heatsink with a waterblock; what are your opinions on Fujipoly pads? How big is temperature difference between their lines as well as other manufacturer's thermal pads?


----------



## VSG

It definitely helps transfer heat from the VRMs and VRAM and keep them cooler. The difference is larger when you are overvolting the cards and have a higher difference in thermal conductivity of the pads in question. I found the Fujipoly Extreme pads a good compromise between price and performance myself.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I'm cleaning my board and replacing the heatsink with a waterblock; what are your opinions on Fujipoly pads? How big is temperature difference between their lines as well as other manufacturer's thermal pads?


Which model of Fujipoly pads? You have 3 different models with different thermal dissipation (6, 11, 17 W/mK). 6 would be ~ on par with most pads out there 17 is almost 3x higher that the rest. Not apples to apples comparison since I changed blocks too but the vrm in my GPU drop down from 76-79 C to 36-40 C changing the pads to fujipoly 17 and from the komodo block to ek. A lot of that drop is due to change in blocks so don't put that in to fujipoly account...


----------



## Solonowarion

Haven't posted the rigs current state in about a year. Thought I would before I do some remodeling.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Sleeving looks amazing on the acrylic


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Haven't posted the rigs current state in about a year. Thought I would before I do some remodeling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Reminds me of wrapped pipes on a motorcycle!


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Which model of Fujipoly pads? You have 3 different models with different thermal dissipation (6, 11, 17 W/mK). 6 would be ~ on par with most pads out there 17 is almost 3x higher that the rest. Not apples to apples comparison since I changed blocks too but the vrm in my GPU drop down from 76-79 C to 36-40 C changing the pads to fujipoly 17 and from the komodo block to ek. A lot of that drop is due to change in blocks so don't put that in to fujipoly account...


I meant to ask how big is the performance difference between their 3 models, thanks for the info.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Haven't posted the rigs current state in about a year. Thought I would before I do some remodeling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nicely done.









Did you have to modify the compression fitting in anyway to get the heatshrink to fit like that? I am doing similar w/ Primochill compressions. I had to drill out the compression ring ever so slightly.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It definitely helps transfer heat from the VRMs and VRAM and keep them cooler. The difference is larger when you are overvolting the cards and have a higher difference in thermal conductivity of the pads in question. I found the Fujipoly Extreme pads a good compromise between price and performance myself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Which model of Fujipoly pads? You have 3 different models with different thermal dissipation (6, 11, 17 W/mK). 6 would be ~ on par with most pads out there 17 is almost 3x higher that the rest. Not apples to apples comparison since I changed blocks too but the vrm in my GPU drop down from 76-79 C to 36-40 C changing the pads to fujipoly 17 and from the komodo block to ek. A lot of that drop is due to change in blocks so don't put that in to fujipoly account...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I meant to ask how big is the performance difference between their 3 models, thanks for the info.


i was thinking of buying fuji 17w/mK pad for my cards but an ocn user said he couldnt remove the pad after sometime and he had to sell the gpu with waterblock on:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures/0_100#post_22559505

but i am not really sure that happens to all


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Sleeving looks amazing on the acrylic


Thanks man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Reminds me of wrapped pipes on a motorcycle!


When I get my bike thats the first thing im doing to it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Very nicely done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you have to modify the compression fitting in anyway to get the heatshrink to fit like that? I am doing similar w/ Primochill compressions. I had to drill out the compression ring ever so slightly.


Thank you sir. The 10mm id phobya push fittings have somewhat of a beveled inner ring to the heat shrink sits in them quite nicely.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Which model of Fujipoly pads? You have 3 different models with different thermal dissipation (6, 11, 17 W/mK). 6 would be ~ on par with most pads out there 17 is almost 3x higher that the rest. Not apples to apples comparison since I changed blocks too but the vrm in my GPU drop down from 76-79 C to 36-40 C changing the pads to fujipoly 17 and from the komodo block to ek. A lot of that drop is due to change in blocks so don't put that in to fujipoly account...


Where is the 17W/mK pads ?

I can only find the 11 stuff at Performance PCs


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Where is the 17W/mK pads ?
> 
> I can only find the 11 stuff at Performance PCs


Orderable here:

*http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17499/thr-181/Fujipoly_ModRight_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_Blister_Pack_-_60_x_50_x_05_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html*


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Orderable here:
> 
> *http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17499/thr-181/Fujipoly_ModRight_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_Blister_Pack_-_60_x_50_x_05_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html*


You my friend is amazing. You seem to follow answering all my stupid uneducated questions

+rep


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i was thinking of buying fuji 17w/mK pad for my cards but an ocn user said he couldnt remove the pad after sometime and he had to sell the gpu with waterblock on:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures/0_100#post_22559505
> 
> but i am not really sure that happens to all


Ya, the Ultra Extreme pads are most pasty than solid and get even more so with heat. I had a bit of it to try out and I wasn't happy with the fact that I couldn't really reuse these- especially at those prices. I settled with the Extremes and I am very happy with them since.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i was thinking of buying fuji 17w/mK pad for my cards but an ocn user said he couldnt remove the pad after sometime and he had to sell the gpu with waterblock on:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures/0_100#post_22559505
> 
> but i am not really sure that happens to all


wut? Sounds a bit strange... I use the mid grade Fujipoly + a dab of TIM on each VRM/VRAM/Inductor... Seems to work juuuuuuuuuuuuust fine. I can't really rationalize spending near $100 on thermal pads to do up all three GPUs. Specially when I use thermal pads in some strange locations, like between the back plate & the VRMs & inductors (learned it from aquacomputer)


----------



## jtom320

Does anyone know if a 450ml Aqualis resovoir with a D5 will fit okay in a 750D?

Searched google for an example of someone doing it and I can't really find anything. Measurements are around for the res itself but not with the D5 adapter or the mounting hardware.

Best guessing it I'm pretty sure it can with a couple drilled screw holes but I'm not 100%.


----------



## CasP3r

I took quick measurements off my Aqualis pump and res combo. They are not hundred precent precise but I hope they'll give you some idea how large it is. Measured from the widest points with the included mounting bracket it's approximately 250mm x 97mm x 100mm (height x width x depth).


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> I took quick measurements off my Aqualis pump and res combo. They are not hundred precent precise but I hope they'll give you some idea how large it is. Measured from the widest points with the included mounting bracket it's approximately 250mm x 97mm x 100mm (height x width x depth).


Aww thanks a lot man. I got measurements of the mounting hardware from Shoggy pretty sure I can figure this out now.


----------



## CasP3r

No problem man, good luck with your build!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Does anyone know if a 450ml Aqualis resovoir with a D5 will fit okay in a 750D?
> 
> Searched google for an example of someone doing it and I can't really find anything. Measurements are around for the res itself but not with the D5 adapter or the mounting hardware.
> 
> Best guessing it I'm pretty sure it can with a couple drilled screw holes but I'm not 100%.


I would be highly surprised if it fits based off of my 900D. What you see below is an EK 60MM rad in P/P (all fans internal) & a 250MM BP reservoir sitting on MCP35x2... It would have been a tight squeeze for a 450MM even without a radiator in the top, & it would have poked into the basement of the case.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I'm also looking to buy a new res soon. Anyone have experience with the PrimoChill CTR Phase 2?
> 
> 
> 
> I like the metallic one but I haven't got any idea of how well built it is. There are not too many metallic reservoirs out there and the Phobya Balancers don't come in sizes small enough to go in my small case.


The phase II's are nice. I have one with the d5 end caps in my build. The d5 end caps don't require any additional mounting brackets either.


----------



## DrakeZ

hi guys, i need some advice

i have corsair 250D and as you know that case is pretty small and doesn't have an enough space

my loop are:
pump + res -> 240 rad -> wb cpu
and maybe add a vga block in the future

i'm thinking to buy this

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33265:378c9be03f4864e2f036b16746c700f8

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33827

and i ran across forum and found that dc-lt has a very loud noise and the resevoir has a pretty bad quality

my question is that really bad and loud? because one of my goal is to make a silent HTPC

i'm thinking to buy this too

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=40504

but it's too overkill for my needs and too expensive for me

for now i have EK DPC 4.0 from my old loop
but if i combined with the res combo, it would taken so much space and made a poor airflow since i had to remove the front fan in order to fit in it

is there any alternative? a combo single bay pump + res with a reasonable price

thanks before!


----------



## dseg

I got tired of cases... Wanted to do something different for my second build, the media PC.

*Before:*


*After:*


----------



## VSG

Very nice!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love PPC's (ordered Friday evening and delivered at noon today) can't wait to get home and tear down my loop to finish the install of my 4790k and install my black ice xflow 240 to the loop with clear tubing


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would be highly surprised if it fits based off of my 900D. What you see below is an EK 60MM rad in P/P (all fans internal) & a 250MM BP reservoir sitting on MCP35x2... It would have been a tight squeeze for a 450MM even without a radiator in the top, & it would have poked into the basement of the case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


We'll see. Guy above measured it at 250mm tall including the D5 and mounting plate. According to the measuring tape that will fit.

My problem is that I don't know of another tube res I can put my D5 on that will fit and look nice. As far as I can tell the Photon Resovoirs can be put together with a D5 but I'd have to rebuy the D5 there is no mounting hardware that I can find. I really don't want to rebuy the D5. Speaking of the Photon though I've seen the 170 and 270 mounted in the 750D. The 170 is a similar size to the Aqualis and the 270 is much larger so I think I can put it in.

The bitspower 150 is pretty cool but I don't think there is a way to attach my D5 to the tube without it sitting on the floor. Which I is a 100% requirment as I have rads on the floor, front and top of my case. It doesn't really have anywhere to sit.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> We'll see. Guy above measured it at 250mm tall including the D5 and mounting plate. According to the measuring tape that will fit.
> 
> My problem is that I don't know of another tube res I can put my D5 on that will fit and look nice. As far as I can tell the Photon Resovoirs can be put together with a D5 but I'd have to rebuy the D5 there is no mounting hardware that I can find. I really don't want to rebuy the D5. Speaking of the Photon though I've seen the 170 and 270 mounted in the 750D. The 170 is a similar size to the Aqualis and the 270 is much larger so I think I can put it in.
> 
> The bitspower 150 is pretty cool but I don't think there is a way to attach my D5 to the tube without it sitting on the floor. Which I is a 100% requirment as I have rads on the floor, front and top of my case. It doesn't really have anywhere to sit.


You can always use *this* one.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> You can always use *this* one.


I actually own the smaller version of that. It's where my D5 motor came from.

To be honest I'm just not a huge fan of the EK asthetic anymore.

No one hurt me please.

I might just go with one of the smaller Aquacomputer res's I'd just like something big to show off in this case and unfortunately they have nothing in the 250ml range that I've seen yet anyways.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> We'll see. Guy above measured it at 250mm tall including the D5 and mounting plate. According to the measuring tape that will fit.
> 
> My problem is that I don't know of another tube res I can put my D5 on that will fit and look nice. As far as I can tell the Photon Resovoirs can be put together with a D5 but I'd have to rebuy the D5 there is no mounting hardware that I can find. I really don't want to rebuy the D5. Speaking of the Photon though I've seen the 170 and 270 mounted in the 750D. The 170 is a similar size to the Aqualis and the 270 is much larger so I think I can put it in.
> 
> The bitspower 150 is pretty cool but I don't think there is a way to attach my D5 to the tube without it sitting on the floor. Which I is a 100% requirment as I have rads on the floor, front and top of my case. It doesn't really have anywhere to sit.


oh right... it is 450ML not 450MM.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I actually own the smaller version of that. It's where my D5 motor came from.
> 
> To be honest I'm just not a huge fan of the EK asthetic anymore.
> 
> No one hurt me please.
> 
> I might just go with one of the smaller Aquacomputer res's I'd just like something big to show off in this case and unfortunately they have nothing in the 250ml range that I've seen yet anyways.


Lol. no worries. I really like the Aqualis too.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I got tired of cases... Wanted to do something different for my second build, the media PC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Before:*
> 
> 
> *After:*


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Lol. no worries. I really like the Aqualis too.


It actually looks like the Primochill Phase 2's would work but length wise they are no smaller then the Aqualis.

My main issue though isn't so much length or width but making sure the mounting hardware will work.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Making a mounting plate is honestly outside my expertise. Drilling holes is not a problem.

I'm like ten days from this happening anyway I'd just like to get it locked down before then.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i was thinking of buying fuji 17w/mK pad for my cards but an ocn user said he couldnt remove the pad after sometime and he had to sell the gpu with waterblock on:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures/0_100#post_22559505
> 
> but i am not really sure that happens to all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wut? Sounds a bit strange... I use the mid grade Fujipoly *+ a dab of TIM on each VRM/VRAM/Inductor*... Seems to work juuuuuuuuuuuuust fine. I can't really rationalize spending near $100 on thermal pads to do up all three GPUs. Specially when I use thermal pads in some strange locations, like between the back plate & the VRMs & inductors (learned it from aquacomputer)
Click to expand...

Why? This will confer zero performance benefit.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why? This will confer zero performance benefit.


Because EK told me to jump off of a bridge.


----------



## VSG

Ya. If anything, the TIM you use might have worse thermal conductivity than the pads too.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya. If anything, the TIM you use might have worse thermal conductivity than the pads too.


Prolimatek claims 11.2, the mid range Fuji are 11 as well. It's a habit that I started awhile ago, and now i just keep doing it... Not sure why... I think EK Recommends it because their thermal pads are so bad. XD


----------



## VSG

I actually measured a few TIM myself using a thermal conductivity measuring device at my university, PK-3 was around 10.6 w/mK- not too far off from advertised. Pretty sure EK only recommends it if you keep reusing the pads aka poor quality pads


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I actually measured a few TIM myself using a thermal conductivity measuring device at my university, PK-3 was around 10.6 w/mK- not too far off from advertised. Pretty sure EK only recommends it if you keep reusing the pads aka poor quality pads


I don't remember 100%, but the last time I actually read waterblock directions it simply said to "DO EET NOW" no jk... Think it said something about further increasing thermal conductivity.


----------



## VSG

I remember a Tiborr post where he had said no need unless frequently disassembling the block/pads. But ya, TIM with the EK pads likely can't hurt at all.


----------



## skupples

tiborrrrrrrrr can't even remember to include new o-rings or standoffs when sending out an RMA!







(sammiches his head with two topless titan plates)


----------



## VSG

The new Swiftech LE blocks seem to be a winner:



The price is high, but you get a backplate and chrome plated copper. That lower temperature is at the expense of increased restriction too but it looks gooooooooooooood


----------



## skupples

lets see them VRM temps, which is where Swiftech almost always comes up short with Komodo series.


----------



## VSG

Getting VRM temps on a reference 780Ti is impossible I thought?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Getting VRM temps on a reference 780Ti is impossible I thought?


I mean... Impossible? ehhhhhh... They don't self report temps no, but you can wedge a temp sensor all up in that beast, which is much more accurate than people blasting a back plate with an IR gun.


----------



## VSG

A temp sensor would incorporate a variable that people can then blame if tests don't go their way. But ya, better than nothing.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A temp sensor would incorporate a variable that people can then blame if tests don't go their way. But ya, better than nothing.


That is true, & it wouldn't be completely accurate as it would be reading the external temp, not the internal temp, but it would serve as a baseline me thinks... Hm.... Going to have to look into this... Maybe i'll wedge one into one of my titans next time i tear them down.


----------



## lowfat

VRM temp is all I care about. It it much more important w/ reference GK110 if you are overvolting IMO.


----------



## psycho84

Selfmade Midplate for my LD V8 Reverse


----------



## Janac

Which company will most likely sponsor me for my project CranBerry? Probably nobody, just wondering if it-s any chance.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> VRM temp is all I care about. It it much more important w/ reference GK110 if you are overvolting IMO.


Agreed. The reference Nvidia PCB is pretty bad relative to most 3rd party ones.


----------



## Blackspots

Oh, I purchased 3 tubes of 8532K13 http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/ and 3 feet of 9679K27 http://www.mcmaster.com/#9679k27/

Its interesting that they shipped it before they charged my bank account.


----------



## QAKE

Small teaser of the final build. Pictures are coming tomorrow. Stay tuned!


----------



## D33G33

Hi guys this was a project I WAS working on, unfortunately during the process i've killed the motherboard so it is no more but I think it still looked cool.

It was a SG33G5 Shuttle with a Q9550 and a watercooled GTX750Ti - A Galcer 240L to cool it.





Sucks that this project didn't work out, a lot of work went into it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mounted block and setting up the 2 240's


----------



## fast_fate

Now we're getting somewhere with the testing set-up









I posted more info about it in the S_alive_8 build log


----------



## MeanBruce

Had to build within a very tight area restricting the loop to the rear of the chassis with no room for a reservoir. Wanted to see if I could put together a replacement for the H100i All In One using improved components while trying to maintain a minimalistic theme. The assembly lifts out easily for filling and maintenance with an external PSU.

Pretty certain the minimalism is all but gone, I don't know depends on perspective, but now I have a CPU that runs at room temperature while I'm working with the pump at 25% decoupled with the EK mount and Sorbothane noise absorbing hemispheres so it's inaudible door open or door closed.

So I guess it's a success, still unsure. delta t at idle is 0C or 1C, is that what is to be expected?

And the red Monsoons fittings look a little janky, should have stayed with all matte black.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8660_zps13524bc0.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8657_zpsdf5d07ec.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8663_zps49f14cab.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why? This will confer zero performance benefit.
> 
> 
> 
> Because EK told me to jump off of a bridge.
Click to expand...

Have you done it yet?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> tiborrrrrrrrr can't even remember to include new o-rings or standoffs when sending out an RMA!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sammiches his head with two topless titan plates)


Maybe if somebody requested the right tops in the RMA








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Which company will most likely sponsor me for my project CranBerry? Probably nobody, just wondering if it-s any chance.


Sure, what do you need? We'll give you everything and all our extra hardware too.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Which company will most likely sponsor me for my project CranBerry? Probably nobody, just wondering if it-s any chance.
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, what do you need? We'll give you everything and all our extra hardware too.
Click to expand...

It's that easy to get a sponsorship from EK?? I can haz sponsorship too?


----------



## alex4069

I am stilling trying to get a water block for my xfx 7950 core with custom pcb.


----------



## skupples

I didn't request tops period..







(for record, i requested the wrong plates due to my ignorance. was not aware 4 new revisions had passed since "XXL")I was attempting to be frugal & save EK money. *drops chunk of nickel plated copper coffee coaster on foot* OWWWWWWWWWWWWWW


----------



## MeanBruce

EK give us new blocks for the GTX880Ti Kingpin pleeeeese









...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It's that easy to get a sponsorship from EK?? I can haz sponsorship too?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Everyone in this forum, look under your seat.
> You get a sponsorship! You get a sponsorship!. And you get a sponsorship!
> EVERYBODY GETS A SPONSORSHIP!
> 
> Sponsorship includes EK cpu and gpu waterblocks of your choice free of charge after a small one-time fee equal to the retail value of said merchandise plus shipping charges.


----------



## MeanBruce

Even I could get an EK sponsorship if I only paid them for it.









Kinda like Performance PCs sponsorships. Total bull









...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

When you guys are talking about thermal pads from EK, which thermal pads should I use for R9 290X with the EK-FC R9 290X Acetal+Nickel block?

I would love the thermal pads to be bought from either Ebay, Amazon or Aquatuning, if you do not know about any Norwegian supplier?


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> When you guys are talking about thermal pads from EK, which thermal pads should I use for R9 290X with the EK-FC R9 290X Acetal+Nickel block?
> 
> I would love the thermal pads to be bought from either Ebay, Amazon or Aquatuning, if you do not know about any Norwegian supplier?


Thermal pads are included in EK blocks.

Here is a quick look of my buid, next is time for a few acrylic pipes.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Almost ready to run my tubing, just need to mount one more fan on the black ice gt







since I might run to the upper rad first this time.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Yesterday I dyed some GT fans. Check out the process on my Schwarz Nickel build log in my sig below!










Jeffinslaw


----------



## DarthBaggins

Turned out nice


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> When you guys are talking about thermal pads from EK, which thermal pads should I use for R9 290X with the EK-FC R9 290X Acetal+Nickel block?
> 
> I would love the thermal pads to be bought from either Ebay, Amazon or Aquatuning, if you do not know about any Norwegian supplier?


If you need extra thermal pads look for this item. EK sells extra thermal pads.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37473


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So I bought a used 290 for a hair over $200 with an Accelero III. Heatsinks are attached with a white paste which I am starting to think is Alumina Adhesive as while some of the them twisted off the chips easily enough about half the VRAM ones will not budge&#8230;at least using any force within my comfort range.

Anyone got any tricks or tips for removing the others? Not sure if heat would help even if that were an easy option. Messed around with a razor blade but that didn't seem to be working out either. And long story short I don't have to stick with this one but it unlocks and I am halfway there to bare already.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys I had a couple questions about my some stuff for my upcoming build "Devil Lair". My last three builds I did, I used HWlabs 20fpi GTX Xtreme 2 Rads and with them I used Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm AP-15 at full speed and the frequency of sound they ran at was perfect I didn't hear or notice them. For my next build I'm using HWlabs new Nemesis Rads which now feature 15fpi , to be honest the AP15's were amazing performing fans but looked rather ugly IMO.

So with the rads I'm going with being 15fpi and not needing such a high rpm fan what are some of the best performing fans for 15fpi that quite or run a frequency that isn't noticeable and possible look really good at the time? , I'm not worried about getting the cheapest possible fan!

Second question, had anyone used the Phobya SMD UV LED kits ? How good are they at making UV Tubing react?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Thermal pads are included in EK blocks.
> 
> Here is a quick look of my buid, next is time for a few acrylic pipes.


I know EK include thermal pads, but from what i understand they are bad for overclocking (high vrm-temperatures). I want an alternative thermal pad which give better vrm-temperatures. Fujipoly i have checked out and digikey is supposed to sell alomst anything of thermal pads. I want alternatives and places i can buy them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So I bought a used 290 for a hair over $200 with an Accelero III. Heatsinks are attached with a white paste which I am starting to think is Alumina Adhesive as while some of the them twisted off the chips easily enough about half the VRAM ones will not budge&#8230;at least using any force within my comfort range.
> 
> Anyone got any tricks or tips for removing the others? Not sure if heat would help even if that were an easy option. Messed around with a razor blade but that didn't seem to be working out either. And long story short I don't have to stick with this one but it unlocks and I am halfway there to bare already.


Iso alcohol.

A quick tip for stick on HS,use normal paste of 3/4 of the chip or 'fet then use a pindrip's worth of thermal adhesive in one corner. The HS will still stick on but they can be twisted off easily saving mucho aggravation.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Second question, had anyone used the Phobya SMD UV LED kits ? How good are they at making UV Tubing react?


I am using that exact led (72 LEDs long) in the build I'm working on today! Fantastic glow and makes my xspc uv blue tubing react in a great way. If you have a large case maybe I'd suggest getting two shorter one for more even lighting. I only ordered it after watching Linus's review







I was about ready to go with lamptron flexlight


----------



## stickg1

So I just had a major watercooling disaster. It was pretty funny despite being a huge PITA to clean up. I was tinkering and went ahead and decided to refill the loop. Welp, I had forgotten to connect the tube from my front radiator to my GPU. So as I primed the pump and fired it up, all the water squirted up into the air and landed on my motherboard and GPU. Wheeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!

So yeah, I broke everything down, blow dried it for a bit, then since I had it all out of the case anyway I changed the TIM on CPU die and CPU block. Everything is back up and running, except if I overclock my GPU RAM at all I get a grey screen.


----------



## Fuzzywinks

Howdy all. I have nearly finished my first water cooled build and thought I would throw it out here. I did derp a little bit and got the EK serial terminal meant for PCI slots right next to each other and I need the slightly longer one, so I can't run my 290x's in Crossfire just yet. Either way I'm getting temps around 36-37C under load with the fans pretty low on the 290x that's currently working. My FX-9590 is topping out around 60C under full load in Prime95 too. I'm pretty happy with this for a first endeavor at water cooling












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzywinks*
> 
> Howdy all. I have nearly finished my first water cooled build and thought I would throw it out here. I did derp a little bit and got the EK serial terminal meant for PCI slots right next to each other and I need the slightly longer one, so I can't run my 290x's in Crossfire just yet. Either way I'm getting temps around 36-37C under load with the fans pretty low on the 290x that's currently working. My FX-9590 is topping out around 60C under full load in Prime95 too. I'm pretty happy with this for a first endeavor at water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!! awesome temps on that GPU! CPU too..
Loving the colors and lighting and DROOOL monitor setup!

A few things though.. is it not possible to fit the top radiator inside the cage? or do you prefer this look better?
And whats up with the low tide in the res? did a "super moon" pass by recently?








Also, you need to work a little with your cable management.. that ATX cable is a thorn in my eyes in an othervice stunning rig!
Good job!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So I just had a major watercooling disaster. It was pretty funny despite being a huge PITA to clean up. I was tinkering and went ahead and decided to refill the loop. Welp, I had forgotten to connect the tube from my front radiator to my GPU. So as I primed the pump and fired it up, all the water squirted up into the air and landed on my motherboard and GPU. Wheeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!
> 
> So yeah, I broke everything down, blow dried it for a bit, then since I had it all out of the case anyway I changed the TIM on CPU die and CPU block. Everything is back up and running, except if I overclock my GPU RAM at all I get a grey screen.


Ouch. Give it a few days minimum in a rice bag and try again.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Iso alcohol.
> 
> A quick tip for stick on HS,use normal paste of 3/4 of the chip or 'fet then use a pindrip's worth of thermal adhesive in one corner. The HS will still stick on but they can be twisted off easily saving mucho aggravation.


Cool though I tried to see if the dried paste on the bottom of one of the sinks that came off seemed to dissolve in alcohol and the answer is apparently no..?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So I just had a major watercooling disaster. It was pretty funny despite being a huge PITA to clean up. I was tinkering and went ahead and decided to refill the loop. Welp, I had forgotten to connect the tube from my front radiator to my GPU. So as I primed the pump and fired it up, all the water squirted up into the air and landed on my motherboard and GPU. Wheeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!
> 
> So yeah, I broke everything down, blow dried it for a bit, then since I had it all out of the case anyway I changed the TIM on CPU die and CPU block. Everything is back up and running, except if I overclock my GPU RAM at all I get a grey screen.


Haha omg&#8230;yeah I have definitely forgotten to plug something before filling or rotating but never turned my pump on in such a situation!









Hopefully the VRAM thing sorts itself out.


----------



## Fuzzywinks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Nice!! awesome temps on that GPU! CPU too..
> Loving the colors and lighting and DROOOL monitor setup!
> 
> A few things though.. is it not possible to fit the top radiator inside the cage? or do you prefer this look better?
> And whats up with the low tide in the res? did a "super moon" pass by recently?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, you need to work a little with your cable management.. that ATX cable is a thorn in my eyes in an othervice stunning rig!
> Good job!


Thanks









The top rad is a 420mm and it's just a little bit wider than the inside of the drive cages allows for. I could start bending and cutting things in the case to make it fit but I was just as happy to stick it on top. I kinda like the look of the tubes going around the back now that I have it set up like this.
lol the res is low because I ran out of coolant







I ordered one bottle of a premixed coolant from XSPC and the loop drank the whole liter of it with that much room to spare. I'll top it off when I put the longer terminal on and get the second card going
I agree, I'm not fond of how intrusive that ATX cable is. I thought about doing some custom sleeving but I think I'll leave that be for now. I'll try and at least tuck it back a little better when I refill the loop

Thanks for the input


----------



## QAKE

Finally finished my build featuring 2x GTX780 Poseidon, both air and water cooled, I7 4770K, Asus M6F, etc, etc


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Iso alcohol.
> 
> A quick tip for stick on HS,use normal paste of 3/4 of the chip or 'fet then use a pindrip's worth of thermal adhesive in one corner. The HS will still stick on but they can be twisted off easily saving mucho aggravation.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool though I tried to see if the dried paste on the bottom of one of the sinks that came off seemed to dissolve in alcohol and the answer is apparently no..?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So I just had a major watercooling disaster. It was pretty funny despite being a huge PITA to clean up. I was tinkering and went ahead and decided to refill the loop. Welp, I had forgotten to connect the tube from my front radiator to my GPU. So as I primed the pump and fired it up, all the water squirted up into the air and landed on my motherboard and GPU. Wheeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!
> 
> So yeah, I broke everything down, blow dried it for a bit, then since I had it all out of the case anyway I changed the TIM on CPU die and CPU block. Everything is back up and running, except if I overclock my GPU RAM at all I get a grey screen.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Haha omg&#8230;yeah I have definitely forgotten to plug something before filling or rotating but never turned my pump on in such a situation!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully the VRAM thing sorts itself out.
Click to expand...

You are not trying to dissolve the paste,you are trying to break the interface layer between the glue and the chip.


----------



## luciddreamer124

I NEED


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are not trying to dissolve the paste,you are trying to break the interface layer between the glue and the chip.


Ok thx +rep. I infer I just attempt to soak them in iso for awhile as best I can...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I NEED


A very good choice indeed,my fav block manufacturer does it again.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Even I could get an EK sponsorship if I only paid them for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda like Performance PCs sponsorships. Total bull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Is that where they start sending your PPC stickers with your orders? If so, I have been sponsored for years!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok thx +rep. I infer I just attempt to soak them in iso for awhile as best I can...


iv'e seen people soak them in high grade ISO, then hit them with the heat gun, and the heat sinks basically fall off.


----------



## DarthBaggins

What stickers, feel jipped now, lol


----------



## Blackspots

Freaking $26.25 for shipping from McMaster Carr, but it'll be here tomorrow. Don't know if I'll buy from them again.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i ive been looking online at fans for the past hour to use with the 16fpi Nemesis Rad, Was looking at the Corsair SP120's but ive read nothing but bad things when it comes to noise, and that they develop a clicking noise when undervolted. I came across the the Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12 they look pretty cool and seem to have good specs but the color is extremely ugly but found out Phobya sells them rebranded under there name.

How loud are the Phobya NB-eLoop 1800rpm compared to the AP15's ? and how much difference in performance would be lost using the Phobya NB-eLoop 1000rpm compaired to the 1800's on the 16fpi rad? anyone using these fans? and how are they vs the Corsair SP120's ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> I am using that exact led (72 LEDs long) in the build I'm working on today! Fantastic glow and makes my xspc uv blue tubing react in a great way. If you have a large case maybe I'd suggest getting two shorter one for more even lighting. I only ordered it after watching Linus's review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was about ready to go with lamptron flexlight


post pics when you're finished?


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So i ive been looking online at fans for the past hour to use with the 16fpi Nemesis Rad, Was looking at the Corsair SP120's but ive read nothing but bad things when it comes to noise, and that they develop a clicking noise when undervolted. I came across the the Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12 they look pretty cool and seem to have good specs but the color is extremely ugly but found out Phobya sells them rebranded under there name.
> 
> How loud are the Phobya NB-eLoop 1800rpm compared to the AP15's ? and how much difference in performance would be lost using the Phobya NB-eLoop 1000rpm compaired to the 1800's on the 16fpi rad? anyone using these fans? and how are they vs the Corsair SP120's ?
> post pics when you're finished?


I've heard that the eLoops are very quiet. Seen a few videos, even at full speed they're fairly quiet.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Finally finished my build featuring 2x GTX780 Poseidon, both air and water cooled, I7 4770K, Asus M6F, etc, etc


Awesome build, lovely pictures.

I tried my first low light long-ish exposure shots this evening, not perfect but my camera battery ran flat and I don't have a spare yet









I think this one turned out okay though


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So i ive been looking online at fans for the past hour to use with the 16fpi Nemesis Rad, Was looking at the Corsair SP120's but ive read nothing but bad things when it comes to noise, and that they develop a clicking noise when undervolted. I came across the the Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12 they look pretty cool and seem to have good specs but the color is extremely ugly but found out Phobya sells them rebranded under there name.
> 
> How loud are the Phobya NB-eLoop 1800rpm compared to the AP15's ? and how much difference in performance would be lost using the Phobya NB-eLoop 1000rpm compaired to the 1800's on the 16fpi rad? anyone using these fans? and how are they vs the Corsair SP120's ?
> post pics when you're finished?


Can't comment on the Corsair fans as I have not used them.
Fan Noise is a very subjective to an individuals noise tolerance level, what is quiet for one person may be too loud for another.
Test results including sound level monitoring (if you can find it for both) as well as community opinions to base your purchase decision on.

Are you planning on using a fan controller to under-volt, or just a plug and play set-up.
Are you planning to run push/pull on the radiator/s

The lower rpm (up to 1600) e-Loops sound signature is very different to the GT's
The GT's have a distinct humming sound which all users would be familiar with.
The e-Loops don't have the humming, instead they have a rushing air noise that in my opinion is equally as "loud" as the GT's humming.
The e-Loops can have a tendancy to click on start-up which I think is the fan complaining about not having enough amperage to spin up properly.
I've found this usually happens only to the higher rpm e-Loops, only on start up and disappears after a couple of seconds - once spun up.
I've read that the BL12-3 version have an issue with rpm reporting when they are under- volted - this seems to be isolated to that particluar model

The e-Loops have their problem when used in pull configuration on radiators - they are just not designed for it.
So this is a factor that must be considered by potential e-Loop buyers.
It can be overcome with the use of shrouds, but not everyone has the space or desire to do this.

If push only go for the e-Loops.
If push/pull consider the NB-BlackSilentPro range.
If you can get some GT AP-15's get those


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Can't comment on the Corsair fans as I have not used them.
> Fan Noise is a very subjective to an individuals noise tolerance level, what is quiet for one person may be too loud for another.
> Test results including sound level monitoring (if you can find it for both) as well as community opinions to base your purchase decision on.
> 
> Are you planning on using a fan controller to under-volt, or just a plug and play set-up.
> Are you planning to run push/pull on the radiator/s
> 
> The lower rpm (up to 1600) e-Loops sound signature is very different to the GT's
> The GT's have a distinct humming sound which all users would be familiar with.
> The e-Loops don't have the humming, instead they have a rushing air noise that in my opinion is equally as "loud" as the GT's humming.
> The e-Loops can have a tendancy to click on start-up which I think is the fan complaining about not having enough amperage to spin up properly.
> I've found this usually happens only to the higher rpm e-Loops, only on start up and disappears after a couple of seconds - once spun up.
> I've read that the BL12-3 version have an issue with rpm reporting when they are under- volted - this seems to be isolated to that particluar model
> 
> 
> 
> The e-Loops have their problem when used in pull configuration on radiators - they are just not designed for it.
> So this is a factor that must be considered by potential e-Loop buyers.
> It can be overcome with the use of shrouds, but not everyone has the space or desire to do this.
> 
> If push only go for the e-Loops.
> If push/pull consider the NB-BlackSilentPro range.
> If you can get some GT AP-15's get those


What is the actual issue with the e-loops in pull configuration? starving for air or rubbing? can this be fixed with a simple washer?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What is the actual issue with the e-loops in pull configuration? starving for air or rubbing? can this be fixed with a simple washer?


The blades protrude out of the frame. So they can hit the radiator fins if they are close to each other. Not a problem with rads like the HardwareLabs SR 1 where one side has fins about 1 cm deep into the rad.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What stickers, feel jipped now, lol


Guess i r sponsored!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The blades protrude out of the frame. So they can hit the radiator fins if they are close to each other. Not a problem with rads like the HardwareLabs SR 1 where one side has fins about 1 cm deep into the rad.


So as long as i get washers or some kind of gasket so it doesn't hit the rad it will be fine? how much space is needed? 3mm washer or more?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So as long as i get washers or some kind of gasket so it doesn't hit the rad it will be fine? how much space is needed? 3mm washer or more?


Is there a reason you have to have the fan(s) in pull? I can measure out the protrusion length if you want, shouldn't take more than a few minutes.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Can't comment on the Corsair fans as I have not used them.
> Fan Noise is a very subjective to an individuals noise tolerance level, what is quiet for one person may be too loud for another.
> Test results including sound level monitoring (if you can find it for both) as well as community opinions to base your purchase decision on.
> 
> Are you planning on using a fan controller to under-volt, or just a plug and play set-up.
> Are you planning to run push/pull on the radiator/s
> 
> The lower rpm (up to 1600) e-Loops sound signature is very different to the GT's
> The GT's have a distinct humming sound which all users would be familiar with.
> The e-Loops don't have the humming, instead they have a rushing air noise that in my opinion is equally as "loud" as the GT's humming.
> The e-Loops can have a tendancy to click on start-up which I think is the fan complaining about not having enough amperage to spin up properly.
> I've found this usually happens only to the higher rpm e-Loops, only on start up and disappears after a couple of seconds - once spun up.
> I've read that the BL12-3 version have an issue with rpm reporting when they are under- volted - this seems to be isolated to that particluar model
> 
> The e-Loops have their problem when used in pull configuration on radiators - they are just not designed for it.
> So this is a factor that must be considered by potential e-Loop buyers.
> It can be overcome with the use of shrouds, but not everyone has the space or desire to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> If push only go for the e-Loops.
> If push/pull consider the NB-BlackSilentPro range.
> If you can get some GT AP-15's get those


It is my intention to do push only for the e-Loops


----------



## jtom320

Does anyone know of something that would allow me to mount a D5 with a top onto a radiator?

I have a 120 on the floor and nowhere else to put it. I'm looking at options with the pump built into the res itself as well just seeing if this would be possible.

Looking at the Bitspower pump top specifically but I like the EK one as well.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The blades protrude out of the frame. So they can hit the radiator fins if they are close to each other. Not a problem with rads like the HardwareLabs SR 1 where one side has fins about 1 cm deep into the rad.


Not sure what was wrong with the ones you had. Mine have the blades at least 1mm under the frame, and then there's another 1mm of a kind of rubber triangle thing. Plus the little rubber washers should be good for another millimeter.

But you are right about it being fine on rads with built it shroud. I had no issues on an AX240, and recently switched to PE240 which has same design, but haven't finished that rig yet.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is there a reason you have to have the fan(s) in pull? I can measure out the protrusion length if you want, shouldn't take more than a few minutes.


I usually run my builds in Push/Pull setups, and if all that's needed is a washer, that's a super easy fix. but i dont even have the case i building in yet so i don't even know if there is room for Push/Pull yet, but i have another question, will this fan have the same issue if its mounted in between the front of a case and a rad in push config?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Not sure what was wrong with the ones you had. Mine have the blades at least 1mm under the frame, and then there's another 1mm of a kind of rubber triangle thing. Plus the little rubber washers should be good for another millimeter.
> 
> But you are right about it being fine on rads with built it shroud. I had no issues on an AX240, and recently switched to PE240 which has same design, but haven't finished that rig yet.


Mine protrudes a wee bit. Don't look at the edges of the blade, look closer toward the middle.

I just got 1 for a Phobya G-Changer 120, it just about works without hitting anything. It does hit the Mo.Ra and the Swiftech MCR-XP rads I have.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I usually run my builds in Push/Pull setups, and if all that's needed is a washer, that's a super easy fix. but i dont even have the case i building in yet so i don't even know if there is room for Push/Pull yet, but i have another question, will this fan have the same issue if its mounted in between the front of a case and a rad in push config?


Ya, a gasket will work just fine and may even improve performance ever so slightly. No idea if a case will be an issue to be honest.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Does anyone know of something that would allow me to mount a D5 with a top onto a radiator?
> 
> I have a 120 on the floor and nowhere else to put it. I'm looking at options with the pump built into the res itself as well just seeing if this would be possible.
> 
> Looking at the Bitspower pump top specifically but I like the EK one as well.


There are 120 & 140mm size mounts that are basically "universal" radiator mounts. They allow you to mount things onto the fan space of a radiator, on top of, or instead of a fan. On phone, or would try to pull one up & link.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mine protrudes a wee bit. Don't look at the edges of the blade, look closer toward the middle.


Found a pic - this isn't a rad obviously, but I mounted the fan here right against the frame of the case and it wasn't hitting it at all.


----------



## lowfat

eLoops will never hit the radiator when in pull. That is a myth. They just produce more noise.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> eLoops will never hit the radiator when in pull. That is a myth. They just produce more noise.


You referring to the drone-like noise? It happens too at full speed, but I can tell you the blades did hit the fins on the Mo.Ra and MCR-XP rads I have.


----------



## MeanBruce

So that's where our pumps come from

http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/

http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/products/

http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/industrial-commercial-pumps/dc-series/

I want the solar powered D5 with the photovoltaic cell.









Basic: Standard
The Basic model is a pump that will run on one simple pump curve. No matter what the input voltage is.

Strong: Extra Power
When the Basic model does not have the performance you want, the Strong model will have the extra performance you need. Same simple pump design, but with extra performance when the input voltage is at the max 24VDC.

Vario: The Right control
The Vario model has a knob to give you control of the speed of the pump allowing you to adjust the performance to your application.

Solar: Energy Efficiency
The Solar model has a feature called Maximum Power Point tracking (MPP). This feature controls the pump performance based on the power input of a solar photovoltaic panel. The Solar model can run off as little as 1 watt and will increase in speed and performance as the solar PV panel output increases.

...plug it into my roof.









...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You referring to the drone-like noise? It happens too at full speed, but I can tell you the blades did hit the fins on the Mo.Ra and MCR-XP rads I have.


Even an MCR320 has a ~5mm shroud built in. They really shouldn't hit. At one point I had used B12-P's on an MCR320-QP and didn't have problems. Did yours wobble a lot?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> So that's where our pumps come from
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/
> 
> http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/products/
> 
> http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/industrial-commercial-pumps/dc-series/
> 
> I want the solar powered one.


ohh! I like those brass tops! Would fit well in an antique aquatica themed build.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Even an MCR320 has a ~5mm shroud built in. They really shouldn't hit. At one point I had used B12-P's on an MCR320-QP and didn't have problems. Did yours wobble a lot?


Not that I remember, I have the B12-2 if that matters. It's happy with push on a Phobya G-Changer 120 now.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Need more pictures! My watercooling parts arrived, time for a teaser? You can see more in my "Schwarz Nickel" build log by clicking the link in my signature.










Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jakusonfire

The fins are about 4-5 mm under where the fan is mounted. They can't possibly hit.


----------



## fast_fate

With the e-Loop blade touching issue I found that the blades themselves haven't touched / probably can't even touch any rad fins on surface area.

What does or can make contact is the outer round ring part of the blade assembly. It can and does make contact with the surface being mounted to...
*IF*
the supplied mounting hardware is not used.
The little rubber grommets provide the clearance so no touching can occur.
What this does though is not create seal between the fan's frame and the surface being mounted to - loosing optimal performance









Do not use foam gaskets - they compress too much and rub the outer ring - the fan may not even spin up at all








Rubber gaskets run the risk of same issue occurring but can be used.

For mounting - In the end I went with the small gap left by the rubber grommets raising the fan slightly from the surface being mounted to.
For pull configuration - I used clear shrouds.


----------



## skupples

@B Negative

Phobya!



everything else in the loop is quality parts, from what I understand.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @B Negative
> 
> Phobya!
> 
> everything else in the loop is quality parts, from what I understand.


Hah, I got myself one of those a while ago from PPCs. The finish on it was pretty awful, but it was the only reservoir at the time that would fit where I wanted it and I'm planning to nickel plate some things anyway.


----------



## mus1mus

Are the E-Loops really that good?

Sorry, this is as subjective as it gets but what are the benefits getting one over GT AP-15 or a tri-blade Delta?

Anyway, I stumbled upon a market that sells used Deltas, San Aces, Nidecs, Papst etc.

I grabbed a set Delta Tri-Blade Super High Speeds that produces a lot of airflow and aheem: NOISE at 3300RPM . But hey, it undervolts to 4Volts.


----------



## jtom320

AFBs are what you want if you want a rad fan from Delta. Undervolt well and static pressure is quite good. Not sure how they compare directly with a Noiseblocker but they are right there with AP-15s.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Finally running tubing:


We just moved into the apartment, mind the mess lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Does anyone know of something that would allow me to mount a D5 with a top onto a radiator?
> 
> I have a 120 on the floor and nowhere else to put it. I'm looking at options with the pump built into the res itself as well just seeing if this would be possible.
> 
> Looking at the Bitspower pump top specifically but I like the EK one as well.


(un)design have some nice mounts for both fans and pumps:

http://www.undesignsbrackets.com/

Besides EK just launched a new fan mount for d5 and ddc pumps.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-d5-v2.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-holder-120mm-fan.html

There are others mounts like this too from other brands like Bitspower









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So i ive been looking online at fans for the past hour to use with the 16fpi Nemesis Rad, Was looking at the Corsair SP120's but ive read nothing but bad things when it comes to noise, and that they develop a clicking noise when undervolted. I came across the the Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12 they look pretty cool and seem to have good specs but the color is extremely ugly but found out Phobya sells them rebranded under there name.
> 
> How loud are the Phobya NB-eLoop 1800rpm compared to the AP15's ? and how much difference in performance would be lost using the Phobya NB-eLoop 1000rpm compaired to the 1800's on the 16fpi rad? anyone using these fans? and how are they vs the Corsair SP120's ?
> post pics when you're finished?


you can check some videos to have an idea of the noise here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> AFBs are what you want if you want a rad fan from Delta. Undervolt well and static pressure is quite good. Not sure how they compare directly with a Noiseblocker but they are right there with AP-15s.




This is what I got.

IMO, these has better tonal qualities (noise signature) than the AFBs. Their sound is not whinny like the AFBs which is not (refers to the tri-blades) annoying for a long exposure







.

3300 RPM at 12 Volts. PWM. Can go down to 4 Volts. More powerful than the AP-15, and can be silenced further than an AP-15.

And the best part, I picked a set for about 2.50 US$ a piece


----------



## Blackspots

I'm wondering. Should I save some money and get:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=31251 (Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 LT)

Or

Should I go ahead with
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=39654 (Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I got.
> 
> IMO, these has better tonal qualities (noise signature) than the AFBs. Their sound is not whinny like the AFBs which is not (refers to the tri-blades) annoying for a long exposure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 3300 RPM at 12 Volts. PWM. Can go down to 4 Volts. More powerful than the AP-15, and can be silenced further than an AP-15.
> 
> And the best part, I picked a set for about 2.50 US$ a piece


The problem with these is the blade structure. Static pressure fans have the blades they do as it keeps air from bouncing back through the fan (excuse my non-scientific nature) Basically, high RPM case fans are normally quite ineffective on radiators. That is pretty much the main difference between case fans and static pressure fans. SP fans have big fat blades to keep the air moving forward.

(this statement is under the assumption that you plan to use them for radiators, since you are comparing them to radiator fans in a watercooling thread)


----------



## VSG

What are you looking to control with these?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The problem with these is the blade structure. Static pressure fans have the blades they do as it keeps air from bouncing back through the fan (excuse my non-scientific nature) Basically, high RPM case fans are normally quite ineffective on radiators. That is pretty much the main difference between case fans and static pressure fans. SP fans have big fat blades to keep the air moving forward.
> 
> (this statement is under the assumption that you plan to use them for radiators, since you are comparing them to radiator fans in a watercooling thread)


Seriously?

Specifications



Not too sure on that. But personal testing revealed the fans pushing noticeable air up to 2 meters even after a 63mm RX.

But yeah, Thermal performance yet to be tested.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What are you looking to control with these?


Good Question







(OPPS, not for me?)

I am yet decided on this one. I have only tested it with a +5Volts Rail.

Maybe a 6-channel controller with at least 30 Watts per channel capability. Or go with a 6-channel with 50 Watts to do Parallel Fans per channel.

What ya think?
Not in to these kind of stuff till I got the fans really.









Edit: By the way, Plan is to run them around 2000-2500 RPM depending on my noise threshold on my noise floor. And crank them up to Maximum on tropical summer(s?)


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What are you looking to control with these?


Are you asking me? I'm looking to control and monitor fans, and a water pump, of course.


----------



## skupples

Yes, you will definitely get decent pressure when they are spinning @ 3K RPM... That is going to substantially drop off as speed is reduced.


----------



## mus1mus

Yeah. Understood that. P-Q curve still suggest around 5mm H2O at around 85 CFM though. So, still good I think.

Will have to try really. Thanks for the concern mate.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The problem with these is the blade structure. Static pressure fans have the blades they do as it keeps air from bouncing back through the fan (excuse my non-scientific nature) Basically, high RPM case fans are normally quite ineffective on radiators. That is pretty much the main difference between case fans and static pressure fans. SP fans have big fat blades to keep the air moving forward.
> 
> (this statement is under the assumption that you plan to use them for radiators, since you are comparing them to radiator fans in a watercooling thread)
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously?
> 
> Specifications
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Here's a better chart imho done with testing on a rad by MartinsLiquidLab. The DeltaVHE has a similar noise/performance trajectory but at its lowest/quietest least loud speeds it's up there just above a maxed out AP-15:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/


----------



## Blackspots

Something I want to know, do these pass RPM to the device monitoring them?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32843


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @B Negative
> 
> Phobya!
> 
> 
> 
> everything else in the loop is quality parts, from what I understand.


That looks more like a septic tank more than it does a reservoir tank.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Something I want to know, do these pass RPM to the device monitoring them?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32843


Yes, but they have the rpm signal active on all the ports. If you want the rpm signal to be readable by a mobo or fan controller you will need to do a simple mod by scratching through the rpm signal trace just past the first fan so only one fan on the pcb splitter is reporting rpms.

Here's the back of a modmytoys 3-pin pcb (courtesy of cgipson1) shown with the tach (rpm) trace scratched out past the first output header so that only one fan's tach signal gets reported to the controller:


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's a better chart imho done with testing on a rad by MartinsLiquidLab. The DeltaVHE has a similar noise/performance trajectory but at its lowest/quietest least loud speeds it's up there just above a maxed out AP-15:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/


That's a 38mm fan.

An AFB 1212L or H runs between 1900 - 2500RPM maxed respectively. I have them on my rads and you can't hear them once they are around 1200ish RPM.

Don't know why people aren't more aware but these things can be had for really cheap if you know where to look and are excellent performers. They also have a great industrial look and feel really heavy and well built.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







People have severe misconceptions about just how hot and power hungry deltas are. I'm running two per channel on a cheapo Lamptron FC4. Totally silent.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yes, but they have the rpm signal active on all the ports. If you want the rpm signal to be readable by a mobo or fan controller you will need to do a simple mod by scratching through the rpm signal trace just past the first fan so only one fan on the pcb splitter is reporting rpms.
> 
> Here's the back of a modmytoys 3-pin pcb (courtesy of cgipson1) shown with the tach (rpm) trace scratched out past the first output header so that only one fan's tach signal gets reported to the controller:


Ok, thanks for telling me. This is done so that the controller doesn't get a signal that would possibly confuse it?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's a better chart imho done with testing on a rad by MartinsLiquidLab. The DeltaVHE has a similar noise/performance trajectory but at its lowest/quietest least loud speeds it's up there just above a maxed out AP-15:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/


Saw that mate.

But, I have my ears to conclude on this. As well as this people to explain. Which sounds just about right IMO.



Sound Pressure Level will not say it all.

Higher Frequency Sounds are less likely to produce huge SPL (dB) numbers on a dB Meter compared to lower ones. But wonder why it's more annoying to be hearing SIRENS than HUMMS ?





My Delta Triblades sound about the level of 150 Hz - 200Hz on the Video.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Ok, thanks for telling me. This is done so that the controller doesn't get a signal that would possibly confuse it?


Exactly. If more than one fan is reporting an rpm signal it gets corrupt and your fan controller or mobo will not get an accurate reading. See the chain of posts starting here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1100_20#post_22527313

... and read down to ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Yep, that worked. Channel one now reads a constant rpm and the other 2 channels are still bouncing around. I'm going to cut the other 2 blocks this evening.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That's a 38mm fan.
> 
> An AFB 1212L or H runs between 1900 - 2500RPM maxed respectively. I have them on my rads and you can't hear them once they are around 1200ish RPM.
> 
> Don't know why people aren't more aware but these things can be had for really cheap if you know where to look and are excellent performers. They also have a great industrial look and feel really heavy and well built.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People have severe misconceptions about just how hot and power hungry deltas are. I'm running two per channel on a cheapo Lamptron FC4. Totally silent.


Now i'm just confused as I thought we were discussing these



there is no way these things compete w/ AP15s.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Now i'm just confused as I thought we were discussing these
> 
> 
> 
> there is no way these things compete w/ AP15s.


They don't.

Well at least I highly doubt they do.

I was just pointing out that an AFB however does.

It's hard to find good information on fans in general though so I couldn't say for sure one way or another. Especially when it comes to these type of fans.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> They don't.
> 
> Well at least I highly doubt they do.
> 
> I was just pointing out that an AFB however does.












OK! Now I totally get it. Yes, those fans linked above look great & seem to have a smaller hub = even better!

I'm eventually going to part with my 30+ AP15s, I just need to find suitable replacements that will move MORE AIR at = to, or slightly louder noise levels, that aren't high pitched. I can handle 30 AP15s @ 100% all day w/o issue when they are 3-4 feet away from me, which is rare as 120MM fans normally drive me nuts.


----------



## mus1mus

I think the notion that they can't compete with the AP-15s were for RPM to RPM or dB to dB on an SPL (dB) Meter. Which is quite more or less the case.

But Model per Model, boy, no!.. That's too easy.. 3300RPM vs. 1850RPM.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> That's a 38mm fan.
> 
> An AFB 1212L or H runs between 1900 - 2500RPM maxed respectively. I have them on my rads and you can't hear them once they are around 1200ish RPM.
> 
> Don't know why people aren't more aware but these things can be had for really cheap if you know where to look and are excellent performers. They also have a great industrial look and feel really heavy and well built.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People have severe misconceptions about just how hot and power hungry deltas are. I'm running two per channel on a cheapo Lamptron FC4. Totally silent.


Just be aware that your definition of what you can't hear isn't the same as someone else. Even Gentle Typhoons are too noisy for me at 800rpm. I have to run mine at about 500-600rpm before they are noiseless. 1000rpm fans of all types are incredibly loud. Sometimes it just sucks to have really good hearing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK! Now I totally get it. Yes, those fans linked above look great & seem to have a smaller hub = even better!
> 
> I'm eventually going to part with my 30+ AP15s, I just need to find suitable replacements that will move MORE AIR at = to, or slightly louder noise levels, that aren't high pitched. I can handle 30 AP15s @ 100% all day w/o issue when they are 3-4 feet away from me, which is rare as 120MM fans normally drive me nuts.
> 
> Just be sure to PM me Skupples . Might be interested if you do.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Just be aware that your definition of what you can't hear isn't the same as someone else. Even Gentle Typhoons are too noisy for me at 800rpm. I have to run mine at about 500-600rpm before they are noiseless. 1000rpm fans of all types are incredibly loud. Sometimes it just sucks to have really good hearing.


Raise your Noise Floor.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I think the notion that they can't compete with the AP-15s were for RPM to RPM or dB to dB on an SPL (dB) Meter. Which is quite more or less the case.
> 
> But Model per Model, boy, no!.. That's too easy.. 3300RPM vs. 1850RPM.


are we talking about the fat boy tri-blades or the ones linked above with the metal hub? or the dinky OTHER tri-blade?

(model numbers for all three would be great!)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

These are the AFB1212VHE fans that Martin tested:



I had a couple, still have somewhere, but they are loud fans imho. Maybe not loud compared to other fans in that rpm range (I wouldn't know though, as they are the only fans like that I've ver had), but I don't know how you could make a comparison to GTs. At the slowest speed I could get one to run (~1600rpms) it was about as loud as one of my AP-45s at a full 12v (~2100rpm) but I luv the smooth hum of the GT even at full speed. I wasn't as impressed with the sound the Deltas made. Not a GT-like hum, but more like a vacuum cleaner in the next room.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Just be aware that your definition of what you can't hear isn't the same as someone else. Even Gentle Typhoons are too noisy for me at 800rpm. I have to run mine at about 500-600rpm before they are noiseless. 1000rpm fans of all types are incredibly loud. Sometimes it just sucks to have really good hearing.


Not talking about 3300 RPM fans.

Talking about 1900 RPM fans.

Fair enough on the noise level but most people don't have the amount of rad space neccesary to run fans at 600 RPM. 1000-1400 is generally a pretty good trade off in terms of having a PC way quieter then it would be on air and good performance.

Really though people should buy one of the numerous 6 dollar AFB models on ebay and play with it. Might be surprised. Make sure you stick it on a fan controller.


----------



## mus1mus

The image I posted is a Delta EFB1212VH 25mm. With a Sub-Model 5b46 at 0.58 Amps. 3300 RPM on a PWM MOBO Header at Standard

Delta Specifications were too messed up when trying to look for the Model Number.

You can just base it here: http://www.manualslib.com/brand/delta-electronics/ventilation-hood.html

The Idea is look for the model that undervolts down to 4 Volts.

As I have this bigger boy that is unknown. RPM, CFM, P-Q Curve, all unknown except that I can run them at 5 Volts.


----------



## skupples

haha... I had some Scythe Delta fans on an H80 for awhile... I had to tie my case down to keep it from taking flight, & it use to REALLY piss off my brother when we were living together because you could literally hear my PC the minute you walked up to the apartment door, & all through the apartment.


----------



## Blackspots

Ok... fans on radiators should be set up as exhaust or intake?

I'm being told that:
[11:09:54 PM] Windchanneller: Rads are best used as exaust
[11:10:52 PM] Windchanneller: I go with two sources
[11:11:16 PM] Windchanneller: NCIX and EEVBlog
[11:12:37 PM] Windchanneller: but a Rad on intake adds the heat TO everything


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

OK I'm with Skupples. I cannot see how that tri-bladed fan is going to achieve great performance when faced with the resistance of a rad. This is simplifying it too much, but good rad fans tend to have a blade design that block most of the light that would shine through when looking at it straight on. Blade designs where there is a lot of space not blocked by a blade means there is more space for air to push backwards when up against a rad, ie: poor static pressure.


----------



## mus1mus

You want me to take a video of how the fan perform on a RAD? Laterzzz.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You want me to take a video of how the fan perform on a RAD? Laterzzz.


Suuuurreee.... Go ahead!


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That looks more like a septic tank more than it does a reservoir tank.


I'm not quite sure how... that happened... The tube on mine is perfectly fine, it's just the nickel finish that is messed up, in certain spots it looks like it's been rubbed off, in others there are a bunch of spotted anomalies on the coating.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OK I'm with Skupples. I cannot see how that tri-bladed fan is going to achieve great performance when faced with the resistance of a rad. This is simplifying it too much, but good rad fans tend to have a blade design that block most of the light that would shine through when looking at it straight on. Blade designs where there is a lot of space not blocked by a blade means there is more space for air to push backwards when up against a rad, ie: poor static pressure.


You can pick the AFB Fans if you like. But I still have the same recommendation.

Pick the ones that can UnderVolt down to 4V. Even if it spins up to 3300RPM.

You'll have the best of both worlds. Silence and Performance.


----------



## skupples

I would just like to see the normal run down done.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You can pick the AFB Fans if you like. But I still have the same recommendation.
> 
> Pick the ones that can UnderVolt down to 4V. Even if it spins up to 3300RPM.
> 
> You'll have the best of both worlds. Silence and Performance.


AP-45s (aka AP-00s) are the best of both worlds, silence and performance. And their little brothers, AP-14s and AP-15s, are right there with them. They are a little hard to come by these days, but I still got me little stash left.











I seriously doubt that tri-bladed Delta even comes close. You'd have to show me some serious proof for me to believe otherwise.


----------



## slothiraptor

Damn. That's alot of GT's


----------



## skupples

My turn!



and by the way... If anyone remembers... I questioned the authenticity of a few of these a few months back. Ran some tests. I have 3 AP14s with AP15 stickers on them. I doubt that is something a reseller would do, and is likely just a herpaderp from the factory.


----------



## slothiraptor

I'm jealous, I wish I could get some AP-14s


----------



## skupples

First born child per fan, PMs only please. This is ever so slightly less expensive than the $50 people were charging on Ebay!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> AP-45s (aka AP-00s) are the best of both worlds, silence and performance. And their little brothers, AP-14s and AP-15s, are right there with them. They are a little hard to come by these days, but I still got me little stash left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seriously doubt that tri-bladed Delta even comes close. You'd have to show me some serious proof for me to believe otherwise.












we'll get there.

But please don't think that I said the fan is the best of both worlds. I referred that with Undervolting and the Speed capability of the fan

Plus, I didn't said the Delta beats the those Nidec Servos. Did I? What I said is that 3300 RPM Delta Triblade will beat a 1850 RPM AP-15 on Performance. I also said that Noise is a subjective matter.

Don't get to the fanboy level.









But came to think of it, with the stash of the GTs that you have, you don't need to consider anything else.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> First born child per fan, PMs only please. This is ever so slightly less expensive than the $50 people were charging on Ebay!


Haha


----------



## Shadowline2553

Any of you guys had any experience with the AP-45s? I can get some from Dazmode right now... would it be a good purchase even though they don't use PWM to control the speed?


----------



## derickwm

Use to have 18 AP-15s.



















January 2012 lol. Back in the day 

I'm a Cougar boy now.



















Solid 50 of 'em in Aldri.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Any of you guys had any experience with the AP-45s? I can get some from Dazmode right now... would it be a good purchase even though they don't use PWM to control the speed?


Most GTs are not PWM fans. Interestingly the AP-45 can be modified however to be PWM controlled. It is a good buy it all depends on noise/performance level you want. I use my ap 15 at 700 rpm usually but other use at 600 rpm or 1000 rpm depending on your tolerance to noise and level of performance you want. I am sure someone will chime in and say at 1000 rpm I can't hear them... So, bottom line here noise is a very personal thing and how you perceive it.


----------



## mus1mus

I just LOL on the noise perception.

You need to see this to believe.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Lol Nice video...But I think those computers at 8:20 are running delta fans


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Lol Nice video...But I think those computers at 8:20 are running delta fans


Hahaha.. I was gonna point to that as well but you beat me.

But yes, as he was walking out you can hear the difference in the noise floor.

Bottom line, your noise floor matters on the noise you can perceive.


----------



## Gabrielzm

^^ Yep agree

I need a tripod and better light but it gives an idea of the final form of this build on the Phanteks Enthoo Primo. Moving to SMA8 soon











Love that small 150 Aquacomputer reservoir


----------



## Erra

Build nearly finished, placed the ram modules yesterday, very happy with how things turned out


----------



## MakiRole

In the process of redoing this (moving to a smaller case), so I figured I'd post it here before things change much.


----------



## Chibodee88

my first custom loop setup, i broke out from the CLC's and this was my first attempt, ignore the make shift SLI connections, i have a bridge but it was toio large so i am waiting for a new one to come in, currently running distilled waster with a cleaner in it. will be flushing it and putting EK Lime Green US fluid in it as well as some UV LED strips and a UV LED where the white LED is in the res.


----------



## sdmf74

Need to find some more AP29PWM's for sale


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakiRole*
> 
> In the process of redoing this (moving to a smaller case), so I figured I'd post it here before things change much.


Welcome to OCN Maki.


----------



## MakiRole

Thanks B-Neg, it's good to be here. Odd to think it's taken me 2 years to post anything, juggling communities, hobbies and life in general is distracting business I guess


----------



## DarthBaggins

Have a feeling I know the answer already but feel I should ask anyway to double check, guessing using lead free brass fittings are a no go on our loops? I have a G1/4 coupler I had left over from when I was putting together my flush setup and need a female to female coupler to connect my pump to the res.


----------



## VSG

Brass is fine. Most rads have brass end tanks anyway.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Brass is fine. Most rads have brass end tanks anyway.


This.
Most fittings,threads and rad parts are brass.


----------



## DarthBaggins

We'll guess my answer to myself was wrong, lol. Good looks like I'll be using that coupler









Tubing ran minus a small section from the pump in to res.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Ok... fans on radiators should be set up as exhaust or intake?
> 
> I'm being told that:
> [11:09:54 PM] Windchanneller: Rads are best used as exaust
> [11:10:52 PM] Windchanneller: I go with two sources
> [11:11:16 PM] Windchanneller: NCIX and EEVBlog
> [11:12:37 PM] Windchanneller: but a Rad on intake adds the heat TO everything


He's probably referring to those AIO coolers. Where typically the CPU will be cooled by AIO, and GPU cooled by air. So if you have your rad fans as _intake_ your GPU would then be cooled with warmed up air, not ideal. However if all your components have a water block on them, the case ambient air temp is not significant. You put two, three, four rads with all intake, and put maybe one or two case fans set to exhaust and you will get the best performance possible. The air on the outside of the case is always cooler than inside the case, the cooler the air, the better the performance. Therefore, intake is better unless you're hybrid cooling where not everything has a waterblock on it. But even then, you're still probably better off with intake.

EDIT: It might also be worth adding that generally your case ambient air temp will be within a few degrees of your water/coolant temp. So if you have enough rad space to accommodate your components the extra 10C or so above ambient isn't going to hurt your uncooled components. Unless it's an air cooled CPU/GPU. But RAM, VRMs, SB, won't take any sort of hit.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Sorry guys about the endless questions about rads and fans lol, got a couple more for you ...

Would 1000rpm at full 12v be enough for 16fpi rad? And lastly is there even any huge gains going with push/pull vs just push? Or would it be something small like 1-2c difference ?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Phone pic of my system while bleeding the air, I'll post more later after I get out the camera:


----------



## Puck

I have a few of the 38mm thick Delta SHE tri-bladees and they are monsters. Mine won't undervolt down to 4v though, and you guys are correct that they wont compete with AP15s for noise/rpm/performance...but if you dont mind the extra noise then they blow them out the water.

Tri-blade deltas have a unique lower hum to them then the high pitched whine of most high RPM fans. They were less annoying them the Ultra Kaze's I have.


----------



## BradleyW

Hey everyone. I was thinking about using a coloured dye. Any suggestions? I don't want anything to stain ANY component AT ALL. Also, which colour would you say? I was thinking blood red or something like that.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone. I was thinking about using a coloured dye. Any suggestions? I don't want anything to stain ANY component AT ALL. Also, which colour would you say? I was thinking blood red or something like that.


I have used ek blood red and mayhems aurora tharsis red and they both stained quite a bit ... I would have gone with some other color, i will only do mayhems ice white or distilled water from now ... I "destroyed" my mosfet block for the maximus gene because of red coolant, never again.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone. I was thinking about using a coloured dye. Any suggestions? I don't want anything to stain ANY component AT ALL. Also, which colour would you say? I was thinking blood red or something like that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have used ek blood red and mayhems aurora tharsis red and they both stained quite a bit ... I would have gone with some other color, i will only do mayhems ice white or distilled water from now ... I "destroyed" my mosfet block for the maximus gene because of red coolant, never again.


Pink is the worst for staining and you need pink to make red, so I'd stay very far away from red of you are worried about staining!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A new start for a new build,Thanks ASUS UK!


----------



## DoktorTerror

New update for my project


















Inviato dal mio SM-N9005


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A new start for a new build,Thanks ASUS UK!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gabrielzm

[q


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



uote name="B NEGATIVE" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/70550#post_22574463"]A new start for a new build,Thanks ASUS UK!







[/quote


]

Beautiful Mips block...A pity they don´t manufacture blocks anymore...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> New update for my project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inviato dal mio SM-N9005


That looks real good.









I noticed you did a fitting bend next to a heated bend. I take it that's the look you're going for or did you have any problems with 2 bends close to each other?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I just LOL on the noise perception.
> 
> You need to see this to believe.


it doesn't do this.. i live in such a room !!! MY PC ROOM


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> it doesn't do this.. i live in such a room !!! MY PC ROOM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that stuff expensive? Would be awesome to be able to game at normal volume without waking the other residents of this house (read parents)


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Is that stuff expensive? Would be awesome to be able to game at normal volume without waking the other residents of this house (read parents)


it was a gift from my father in law who is a musician. this stuff is used in studio recording. it's not the foam that's expensive. what under it is a wooden chase filled with sound proof sheets then the foam is laid on it. it's costy as far as i know. but i don't know how much to be honest


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> it was a gift from my father in law who is a musician. this stuff is used in studio recording. it's not the foam that's expensive. what under it is a wooden chase filled with sound proof sheets then the foam is laid on it. it's costy as far as i know. but i don't know how much to be honest


Thank you for the (quick) reply. I'll look into it, it really caught my interest. Have fun with it!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I just LOL on the noise perception.
> 
> You need to see this to believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> it doesn't do this.. i live in such a room !!! MY PC ROOM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Nice Room.

Though yours seemed like the an-echoic chamber, it is far from that.

But great room to enjoy music nonetheless.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> He's probably referring to those AIO coolers. Where typically the CPU will be cooled by AIO, and GPU cooled by air. So if you have your rad fans as _intake_ your GPU would then be cooled with warmed up air, not ideal. However if all your components have a water block on them, the case ambient air temp is not significant. You put two, three, four rads with all intake, and put maybe one or two case fans set to exhaust and you will get the best performance possible. The air on the outside of the case is always cooler than inside the case, the cooler the air, the better the performance. Therefore, intake is better unless you're hybrid cooling where not everything has a waterblock on it. But even then, you're still probably better off with intake.
> 
> EDIT: It might also be worth adding that generally your case ambient air temp will be within a few degrees of your water/coolant temp. So if you have enough rad space to accommodate your components the extra 10C or so above ambient isn't going to hurt your uncooled components. Unless it's an air cooled CPU/GPU. But RAM, VRMs, SB, won't take any sort of hit.


Yeah, I want to buy a CaseLabs Mercury S8, so there will be plenty of space.

Also, got my PrimoChill adapters in, the 3 6' pipes and the cord in all on the same day. Did a little test, only heat available was the gas stove, so I tried twice. First attempt went well, but then did the very end of the pipe. I think I held it over the flame for too long and started melting the pipe. I cut that off the very end, so the two fittings are on the part of the pipe I did first.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yeah, I want to buy a CaseLabs Mercury S8, so there will be plenty of space.


Exactly, if you have a couple double/triple/quadruple radiators and you're cooling CPU and GPU(s) with them, then the ideal config is all intake on rads and put a decent 140mm exhaust fan in the back above the motherboard I/O and you're golden.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yeah, I want to buy a CaseLabs Mercury S8, so there will be plenty of space.
> 
> Also, got my PrimoChill adapters in, the 3 6' pipes and the cord in all on the same day. Did a little test, only heat available was the gas stove, so I tried twice. First attempt went well, but then did the very end of the pipe. I think I held it over the flame for too long and started melting the pipe. I cut that off the very end, so the two fittings are on the part of the pipe I did first.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't use something with a open Flame. Use a Heatgun ! It's much easier and safer!


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Exactly, if you have a couple double/triple/quadruple radiators and you're cooling CPU and GPU(s) with them, then the ideal config is all intake on rads and put a decent 140mm exhaust fan in the back above the motherboard I/O and you're golden.


Yeah, exactly what I plan. All fans on the rads intake, the front fan as intake and a 120mm fan in the rear as exhaust. (All of them Noiseblocker e-Loops NB12-4)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Dont use something with a Flame. Use a Heatgun ! It's much easier !


LOL, I'm gonna get me a heatgun from harbor freight probably Friday (And my hands smell like rubber from the cord)


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> LOL, I'm gonna get me a heatgun from harbor freight probably Friday (And my hands smell like rubber from the cord)


Trust me it's much easier with the Heatgun ^^

And it needs some Practice ^^ I need about 1m until i get the first nice Curve ^^

(Sry for my terrible English







)


----------



## scarletsboy

I just finished my very first water cooling build thanks to the help of you guys. As before I just had a Corsair H100i on the cpu and the standard fan on the GTX 690

*List of parts*
Monsoon D5 Premium Dual Series Two 5.25in Reservoir - Matte Black
XSPC / Laing D5 Vario Motor,
EK CPU Water Blocks EK-Supremacy - Acetal + Nickel
EK GPU 690GTX Water Blocks & EK-backplate
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm
Phobya Xtreme 200 - V.2 - Full Copper Radiator
Alphacool & EK Fittings
Primochill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced hose 13/10 mm - Elegant White
Noctua NFF 12 fans




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scarletsboy*
> 
> I just finished my very first water cooling build thanks to the help of you guys. As before I just had a Corsair H100i on the cpu and the standard fan on the GTX 690
> 
> *List of parts*
> Monsoon D5 Premium Dual Series Two 5.25in Reservoir - Matte Black
> XSPC / Laing D5 Vario Motor,
> EK CPU Water Blocks EK-Supremacy - Acetal + Nickel
> EK GPU 690GTX Water Blocks & EK-backplate
> Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm
> Phobya Xtreme 200 - V.2 - Full Copper Radiator
> Alphacool & EK Fittings
> Primochill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced hose 13/10 mm - Elegant White
> Noctua NFF 12 fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean dude, good job


----------



## jtom320

Quick question.

If all I have is the motor will this pump top work with it no issue? Or will I need more parts?

By motor I mean all I have is the D5 internal motor piece. The sort of cup shaped part that goes into the top. No brackets or screws or anything like that.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14208/ex-pmp-167/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Pump_Mod_Top_V2_-_Acetal_G14_VersionBP-D5TOPP2-BK.html?tl=g30c107s1805

Probably dumb question just want to double check with someone in here who I'm sure has the answer. Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> If all I have is the motor will this pump top work with it no issue? Or will I need more parts?
> 
> By motor I mean all I have is the D5 internal motor piece. The sort of cup shaped part that goes into the top. No brackets or screws or anything like that.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14208/ex-pmp-167/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Pump_Mod_Top_V2_-_Acetal_G14_VersionBP-D5TOPP2-BK.html?tl=g30c107s1805
> 
> Probably dumb question just want to double check with someone in here who I'm sure has the answer. Thanks.


you have this correct?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13147/ex-pmp-131/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_w_RPM_Monitoring_-_Single_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s1802

do you have the mounting ring?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19457/ex-pmp-234/XSPC_D5_Vario_Pump_Motor_w_Mount_Ring_-_Single_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s1802

it seems the bitspower top need the mounting ring. The ek top does not.


----------



## Qu1ckset

What do you guys think of the EK Heatspreaders used without the monarch blocks installed ?


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What do you guys think of the EK Heatspreaders used without the monarch blocks installed ?


Looks like they'll retain heat because there's no fins to dissipate the heat.


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What do you guys think of the EK Heatspreaders used without the monarch blocks installed ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks better with monarch x4 and black pcb

but even by themself they look nice


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Looks like they'll retain heat because there's no fins to dissipate the heat.


It doesn't matter.


----------



## siffonen

Here is mine, just need to do wiring and then its ready. Didnt have proper tools for acrylic bendin so i am not 100% happy but its good enough.
First i had two rads but after leaking fitting and no place near to buy a new one, i had to remove it. Its also a much cleaner behind mb tray thanks to fewer tubing.


----------



## deviot




----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deviot*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As someone who is also in a HAF X you did an excellent job!


----------



## VSG

Another EK survey I saw posted on facebook: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/ekwb1

This time it's more specific and comes with a chance for prizes too, but be warned the T shirt will likely have a photo of Derick on it


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What do you guys think of the EK Heatspreaders used without the monarch blocks installed ?


I have used it like that for a while, no problems with heat, the ram get hot, but so did the original heat sinks, no difference in temperatures though. But if you are going to use it be prepared for mid 40's. (Celsius).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another EK survey I saw posted on facebook: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/ekwb1
> 
> This time it's more specific and comes with a chance for prizes too, but be warned the T shirt will likely have a photo of Derick on it


no phobya option for the dislikes.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> no phobya option for the dislikes.


Koolance was missing in a lot of the questions as well.


----------



## VSG

No Koolance either lol


----------



## LiquidHaus

no heatkiller either. watercool and ek are the only ones i prefer to use for blocks. alphacool and hardware labs for radiators.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> *no heatkiller* either. *watercool and ek are the only ones i prefer* to use for blocks. alphacool and hardware labs for radiators.


Umm, Heatkiller blocks are made by Watercool.









http://watercool.de/en/heatkiller-gpu-x


----------



## VSG

That's what he meant I think, there was no Watercool in the options.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Umm, Heatkiller blocks are made by Watercool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://watercool.de/en/heatkiller-gpu-x


i know that. i wanted to vote for heatkiller blocks in the survey so that ek would take notice









it would be nice having uniform water cooling parts in a rig but i like what i like at the moment.


----------



## skupples

the #1 thing EK needs to work on, if they want to be more inclusive, is fittings.


----------



## VSG

Their new colored hardline fittings are a start, similar soft tubing fittings are coming out soon too.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> i know that. i wanted to vote for heatkiller blocks in the survey so that ek would take notice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it would be nice having uniform water cooling parts in a rig but i like what i like at the moment.


Doh!







guess I should have read the last page or so of posts prior to it before replying. Apologies.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Doh!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess I should have read the last page or so of posts prior to it before replying. Apologies.


no worries at all sir!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I want to change from my xspc raystorm block, like ek's gold and copper clear top blocks


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know I want to change from my xspc raystorm block, like ek's gold and copper clear top blocks


Is it just for looks, or for better temps?...Coz there will always be something more better eye-catching, cooling wise..really.. ?? is wrong with xspc, beside being said "low budget" ?

OT here a second...not at you, just the general population... Wanna ride on 26" wheels instead of 22" or something less like to make ends meet...Bling Bling on me cash flow money chop chops..What is the real standard for W/C systems?..., those who flash the $$, will always and be all on top of that.... Cheers to those who have a built that kick azz system beyond their dreams, or just found them and can really enjoy the end result being accomplished and satisfied...When dowz endz you, and you know it...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> i know that. i wanted to vote for heatkiller blocks in the survey so that ek would take notice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it would be nice having uniform water cooling parts in a rig but i like what i like at the moment.


If were talking solid, non see threw blocks personally don't like the heatkiller blocks, there cool i guess but to much going on, i love the plain minimalistic Black EK Clean CSQ GPU Blocks, my favorite this round of blocks, but for those going with clear blocks to see there colored liquads i will agree with the above statement.

I will say tho EK's Clean CSQ CPU Blocks are a little to plain imo.. still buying one one tho lol...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the #1 thing EK needs to work on, if they want to be more inclusive, is fittings.


This 100%







, i cannot stand the looks of there 45 and 90 degree angled fittings!


----------



## VSG

I actually prefer the EK rotary angled adapters over the Bitspower ones. They are far easier to rotate and yet haven't had any leak. I have had 3 Bitspower rotary fittings leak in the same time.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I actually prefer the EK rotary angled adapters over the Bitspower ones. They are far easier to rotate and yet haven't had any leak. I have had 3 Bitspower rotary fittings leak in the same time.


Ive only tried Enzotech and Bitspower and have owned a fair amount of fittings, and knock on wood, i have never experienced a leaky fitting yet!


----------



## VSG

I have had 1 XSPC rotary male-male adapter and 1 Feser adapter leak also- nothing that new O-rings didn't fix though. The BP rotaries that leaked were dual rotaries so I couldn't do much about them.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> This 100%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , i cannot stand the looks of there 45 and 90 degree angled fittings!


CSQ or PSC? I'm not a big fan of CSQ 45 degree ones, 90 are kind of OK. I use PSC ones though and love them.


----------



## VSG

^ Ya, I should have mentioned all the EK fittings I have are the PSC type.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> CSQ or PSC? I'm not a big fan of CSQ 45 degree ones, 90 are kind of OK. I use PSC ones though and love them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Ya, I should have mentioned all the EK fittings I have are the PSC type.


I like the PSC fittings zero compliants looks wise , aren't they pretty much EOL now? I know they can be bought still at ppc.

The fittings I was referring to are these CSQ... So ugly... (90degree aren't bad after a second look)


----------



## DeXel

EK still has some in their shop, and I got few from PPCs, but guess they probably stopped the production for CSQ ones instead. CSQ ones cost as much as Bitspower. I don't see why would anyone just not get Bitspower or maybe Barrow.


----------



## brandotip

Just finished my build and the xspc x20 750 rev 4 I got from ppcs makes the loudest vibration noise. I am allowed to choose a new pump res combo and pay the difference. Anyone have a suggestion? I'm cooling an OC'ed 3570k and hacked gtx 780 on a 360mm rad. I was thinking maybe the photon 170 d5 or ek ddc xres 100


----------



## Roxxas049

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> EK still has some in their shop, and I got few from PPCs, but guess they probably stopped the production for CSQ ones instead. CSQ ones cost as much as Bitspower. I don't see why would anyone just not get Bitspower or maybe Barrow.


Some korean shop took over the ebay Barrow fittings inventory, now they're as much as Bitspower ones.


----------



## Jeronbernal

gold vinyl'd the EVGA SLI bridge, the lighting made them look two different shades, but their actually pretty close

also took some pics :3


----------



## derickwm

PSC angled adapters are still regularly stocked.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> PSC angled adapters are still regularly stocked.


Oh, u sure?


----------



## Kimir

He is, they aren't in EOL section on the EK webstore, you can see that some of them are in stock there.
I use those one too, I prefer their minimalist look to the CSQ.


----------



## mus1mus

Guys any info on parallel rads?


----------



## VSG

You mean internal parallel flow rads or having multiple rads in parallel? If the latter, then bad idea. Go in series. If the former, it can work but depending on the rad(s) you might need multiple pumps. For example, the Mo.Ra rads really mock any standard Laing pump. You can go with the D5 Strong at 24v or the Iwaki pumps or go dual DDC or D5.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> gold vinyl'd the EVGA SLI bridge, the lighting made them look two different shades, but their actually pretty close
> 
> also took some pics :3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Definitely my favorite gold build I've seen so far. Absolutely awesome work, dude!


----------



## Shadowline2553

Well I got some more parts in... Monday gonna put my cards under water...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Someone here have bad experience with the Koolance RP452-X2 reservoir? Devilhead on OCN told me it was a PITA to bleed air out of ... anybody else got the same experience?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You mean internal parallel flow rads or having multiple rads in parallel? If the latter, then bad idea. Go in series. If the former, it can work but depending on the rad(s) you might need multiple pumps. For example, the Mo.Ra rads really mock any standard Laing pump. You can go with the D5 Strong at 24v or the Iwaki pumps or go dual DDC or D5.


Was actually thinking about the EX line from XSPC for example. Single Row, Dual Pass. Same construction as the RX Version 3 with 2 rows, Dual Pass.

But I think a couple of Crossflow EXs will be about the same as a Single RX.

Reason is that a very good deal on a couple of EX 560s surfaced. Way cheaper than a single RX.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Was actually thinking about the EX line from XSPC for example. Single Row, Dual Pass. Same construction as the RX Version 3 with 2 rows, Dual Pass.
> 
> But I think a couple of Crossflow EXs will be about the same as a Single RX.
> 
> Reason is that a very good deal on a couple of EX 560s surfaced. Way cheaper than a single EX.


I assume you meant cheaper than single RX? If so, go for them. The EX line isn't their best, but very decent rads for the money.


----------



## skupples

here is the end of the Phobya reservoir story.


























makes me think the "metal" caps on the reservoir were made out of lead.


----------



## VSG

Yuck! Those pictures should be bookmarked and referenced each time someone asks for those reservoirs because they saw Linus use it in his ultimate watercooled PC build video.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yuck! Those pictures should be bookmarked and referenced each time someone asks for those reservoirs because they saw Linus use it in his ultimate watercooled PC build video.


cool... Reason #4 as to why I think Linus is a moron! Thanks for that!









Reason #1 being socks with sandals, and yes i'm pretty sure he is referencing me when he makes those butthurt passive aggressive jokes about it.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Was actually thinking about the EX line from XSPC for example. Single Row, Dual Pass. Same construction as the RX Version 3 with 2 rows, Dual Pass.
> 
> But I think a couple of Crossflow EXs will be about the same as a Single RX.
> 
> Reason is that a very good deal on a couple of EX 560s surfaced. Way cheaper than a single RX.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I assume you meant cheaper than single RX? If so, go for them. The EX line isn't their best, but very decent rads for the money.
Click to expand...

Sorry. Yeah. Corrected.

Just me thinking about how to get decent 140s for cheap.


----------



## mus1mus

Can you still clean that out?

Such a big loss!


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> here is the end of the Phobya reservoir story.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> makes me think the "metal" caps on the reservoir were made out of lead.


Brutal... how easy to clean up has it been?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Brutal... how easy to clean up has it been?


My buddy reports that boiling them in Vinegar has done a pretty good job, & also stripped most of the nickel off.

It is definitely the result of sup par materials used in the Phobya reservoir. Like, in all honesty... If I had to guess, the metal caps on the reservoir are made out of some seriously shady materials, lead, pewter, alloys & gross metals like that.


----------



## Kimir

The hell!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Sorry. Yeah. Corrected.
> 
> Just me thinking about how to get decent 140s for cheap.


I am extremely happy with my Cougar CF-V1HB fans:







Here in the US, they keep coming on 30-40% discount but I don't know how it would be for you over there. Phanteks and BGears also make very nice, reasonably priced 140mm fans- at least here.


----------



## mend0k

What kind of rad mount is that geggeg? Or did you make that yourself?


----------



## VSG

That's a drop-in rad mount for my CaseLabs TX10. A lot of their cases have this feature so you can assemble everything outside and then just drop it inside the case using 4 thumb screws. Build log in the sig has more info if interested (cheap plug!).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am extremely happy with my Cougar CF-V1HB fans:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here in the US, they keep coming on 30-40% discount but I don't know how it would be for you over there. Phanteks and BGears also make very nice, reasonably priced 140mm fans- at least here.


How I wish I can get them at that price.

But even then, I can get Delta 120s for still half of that. I'm cheap


----------



## VSG

Delta fans for cheap is a







in my books. Just get a good fan controller!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Delta fans for cheap is a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in my books. Just get a good fan controller!


Yeah. I did pick a set of WFBs today. Time to test which is better between the Tri-blades and the 7-sweeping blades.





by the way,

I love the Cougars. I can get them for like 10$ for their cheapest CFDs.

These ^ are about 2.5 - 3$


----------



## Pimphare

I've seen a lot of talk regarding eLoops here lately. I'd just like to confirm that I have absolutely no issues with my Noiseblocker brand B12-3's in push/pull configuration mounted on a Alphacool 360 Monsta.









The fans are controlled by two of these:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=39216


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yuck! Those pictures should be bookmarked and referenced each time someone asks for those reservoirs because they saw Linus use it in his ultimate watercooled PC build video.


well someone need to pm slick or linus on their forum.. to show them their mistake.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I've seen a lot of talk regarding eLoops here lately. I'd just like to confirm that I have absolutely no issues with my Noiseblocker brand B12-3's in push/pull configuration mounted on a Alphacool 360 Monsta.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fans are controlled by two of these:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=39216


Me neither, the monsta fins/channel are well spaced from the rad chassis compared to the UT60 and ST30.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Brutal... how easy to clean up has it been?
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy reports that boiling them in Vinegar has done a pretty good job, & also stripped most of the nickel off.
> 
> It is definitely the result of sup par materials used in the Phobya reservoir. Like, in all honesty... If I had to guess, the metal caps on the reservoir are made out of some seriously shady materials, lead, pewter, alloys & gross metals like that.
Click to expand...

I stopped reading at Phobya.....

That tarnish will probably polish out with elbow grease


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> well someone need to pm slick or linus on their forum.. to show them their mistake.


Fair point, will do that.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> PSC angled adapters are still regularly stocked.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, u sure?
Click to expand...

Uh yes I just got myself like 50 of them for my own builds. Why would I make that up?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That tarnish will probably polish out with elbow grease


That's what I think as well. Unfortunately it sounds like he destroyed them by going too extreme on the cleaning method.


----------



## Noviets

How comes alot of people run multiple cards in parallel rather than series? Doesn't the lack of flow/pressure give worse performance?

Is it because it's better for low performing pumps or when you run them super low?

Or is it because the blocks are designed to have water flowing them a certain direction?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the #1 thing EK needs to work on, if they want to be more inclusive, is fittings.


I think the number one thing EK ought to work on is offering something different with some actual design features rather than their generic-looking square-edged slabs of acetal or acrylic, especially the ones with crop circles. To each their own, but I've never seen an EK block that I liked the looks of even a little.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> How comes alot of people run multiple cards in parallel rather than series? Doesn't the lack of flow/pressure give worse performance?
> 
> Is it because it's better for low performing pumps or when you run them super low?
> 
> Or is it because the blocks are designed to have water flowing them a certain direction?


If you have a pump like a DDC (aka MCP35x, PMP400) that has lower flow rate but higher head pressure, it might favor running GPUs in serial, but if you have a D5 (aka MCP-655, PMP450, VPP655) which has a higher flow rate but lower head pressure, then on the same coin you're probably better off to run GPUs in parallel, but it doesn't really appear to matter all that much either way. Whatever looks better to you might be the best reason for choosing one or the other.

Swiftech did a study and found the differences between running GPUs in series vs parallel is "nominal". In their case they did manage to get a fraction of a degree benefit to running GPUs in parallel vs in series.

http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf *(PDF)*


----------



## Noviets

Some nice information there, thank you Unicr0nHunter.


----------



## scarletsboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Well I got some more parts in... Monday gonna put my cards under water...


The monsoon Res is awesome I have it, just make sure you clean the inside of the window as it's not as clean as you would think


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Please spoiler quoted pics.
Leave one free but spoiler the rest please.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Guys, for those on the market for GTs FZCPU have a stock of AP13, AP30 and AP11. Particularly ap13 have more than a 100. No AP14 or AP15 sadly...

Also, anyone have used this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21851/fan-1273/Phanteks_140mm_x_25mm_UFB_Bearing_PWM_Fan_-_White_Frame_White_Blade_PH-F140HP-WT_120mm_Mount_Pattern_.html?tl=g36c365s1507&id=eGMHMMfS&mv_pc=3630 140 mm (120 mm mount pattern) in 120 mm rad before? I am thinking if will fit in a Black Ice SR1 rad...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Someone here have bad experience with the Koolance RP452-X2 reservoir? Devilhead on OCN told me it was a PITA to bleed air out of ... anybody else got the same experience?


Anyone?


----------



## VSG

No personal experience but bay reservoirs are pretty bad at filling and bleeding in general compared to tube reservoirs. Also, the koolance warranty terms are a big


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No personal experience but bay reservoirs are pretty bad at filling and bleeding in general compared to tube reservoirs. Also, the koolance warranty terms are a big


Yes, the tube reservoirs is a bit easier to bleed air out of, but the XSPC Dual D5 reservoir is not a big problem either, the Koolance reservoir is the only "perfect fit" for my case so I really want it to be what I need, but if I have to I will order something else instead. Tube reservoir is out of the question anyways. on the other side I already have one tube reservoir and I think it is so ugly and unpractical so no more of that.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Yes, the tube reservoirs is a bit easier to bleed air out of, but the XSPC Dual D5 reservoir is not a big problem either, the Koolance reservoir is the only "perfect fit" for my case so I really want it to be what I need, but if I have to I will order something else instead. Tube reservoir is out of the question anyways. on the other side I already have one tube reservoir and I think it is so ugly and unpractical so no more of that.


So essentially you need a dual bay reservoir? Why is the Koolance one a perfect fit but any other is not?

You can get a custom bay res from @Frozen-Q as well if you give them exact specs. Talk to @Steveo2400 for more info.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Fair point, will do that.


knowing Linus, he will probably call my friend a noob, when in reality he has probably assembled more watercooling rigs than linus ever has. (people with hardware shows tend to stick to air cooling as they swap parts every other minute, just look at Tek)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I have a Corsair Carbide Air 540 with modified 5 1/4" bays to fit a dual bay reservoir, the fillport (on the top of the reservoir has to be placed further back on the reservoir than the XSPC-ones), the Koolance RP-452X2's have fillports in the front of the reservoir and will work just fine with this case. The reservoir will be standing vertically instead of horzontal (layout of the case), and placement of the reservoir outside the case is not really an option, I will have one radiator stand and one MO-RA3 1260 externally and I do not have space for the reservoir on either one of those stands.

I do not have the space for any tube reservoir because of the case and the quadfire r9 290x's together with the rest of my hardware.

Custom made reservoir sounds expensive and if the Koolance reservoir is good I do not really need it.


----------



## lowfat

IMHO those Koolance bay reservoirs are terribly designed. They are nightmares when it comes to bleeding. The Monsoon ones are significantly more user friendly.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Yes, the tube reservoirs is a bit easier to bleed air out of, but the XSPC Dual D5 reservoir is not a big problem either, the Koolance reservoir is the only "perfect fit" for my case so I really want it to be what I need, but if I have to I will order something else instead. Tube reservoir is out of the question anyways. on the other side I already have one tube reservoir and I think it is so ugly and unpractical so no more of that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No personal experience but bay reservoirs are pretty bad at filling and bleeding in general compared to tube reservoirs. Also, the koolance warranty terms are a big


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anyone?


I just finished a loop with the x20 750 rev 4 xspc dual bay and I must say the filling and bleeding instructions are subpar at best. After 3 days my pump makes a terrible noise that started when bleeding. It is a common issue with the 750, but I am certain it is because of xspc's lack of direction for filling a very sensitive pump combo. Luckily PPCS is amazing and let me pay the difference between this pump and an ek d5 vario x res 100... I'd try and find a way to make a small tube fit.
My .02


----------



## jtom320

Anyone know how the Bitspower D5 top performs? Can't find any concrete info.

From what I've seen the Alphacool top performs really well I just don't like the looks of it as much.

A review or comparison that I missed would be great if anyone has a link.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Anyone know how the Bitspower D5 top performs? Can't find any concrete info.
> 
> From what I've seen the Alphacool top performs really well I just don't like the looks of it as much.
> 
> A review or comparison that I missed would be great if anyone has a link.


How urgently does you purchasing decision need to be made ?
I can do a flow rate Vs Diff Pressure test and chart it up over the weekend if that helps.
Check over at my testing thread and I should have it up by Monday morning









My gut feeling is that the Bitspower D5 top (V2) will not be putting out high flow numbers.
This is based on some tests I did on it before "better" equipment arrived and testing done with on the Bitspower Dual D5 top with the new equipment.
The housing seems a bit small to get velocity of the fluid up before exiting.
And if I remember correctly the ports, outlet especially were quite narrow.

EDIT - what model D5 are you going to run ?
If I have it I'll match it up with the top


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Anyone know how the Bitspower D5 top performs? Can't find any concrete info.
> 
> From what I've seen the Alphacool top performs really well I just don't like the looks of it as much.
> 
> A review or comparison that I missed would be great if anyone has a link.


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/08/09/single-d5-pump-tops-roundup/

I could swear I saw the bitspower top in that review but alas seems I was wrong. In any case is a good review.

More details here:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?286819-Stren-s-D5-Top-Testing-(EK-Alphacool-and-Koolance-so-far)

the dual bitspower is not impressive from Stren results. Not sure about the single top.


----------



## jtom320

You know what guys I actually went off those two charts and ended up getting the V2 Alphacool one. Mostly because I think it matches my res well and the performance was really good. Truthfully I would have gotten the Aquacomputer top but according to those charts it's actually worse then the stock D5.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40987

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_666&products_id=40979

I'm pairing it with a 450ml Aqualis resovoir in my 750D.

The Pump is going to be mounted to my RX120 on the floor of the case. UT60 240 in the front.

It's going to look busy and the res is going to be pretty big in the case but I think I'm going to do UV blue mayhems with some white LEDs combined with the Waterfall effect on the Aqualis it should look pretty good. Mounting it will be interesting but I've measured the heck out of it and I think I'll be okay.

Almost done turning my mATX build into a big one. Need some more fans and a full size ATX mobo but that won't be for a week or so.

Really appreciate you guys jumping to help me and to answer the one guys question it's a D5 vario I'm using.


----------



## fast_fate

Cool jtom








I'll still run the test, but without the deadline.
I'm interested to find out for myself








and others might find the data useful at some stage too









EDIT - @Gabrielzm My feeling from using both single & dual Bitspower D5 tops (no data yet) is that the single will perform on the same sort of scaling as the double - not very well








Data will tell the true story though


----------



## Gabrielzm

^^ this...My intuition goes along the same line...I would bet the single bitspower is also leaning on the weak side....Stren's test on ek tops show the dual been almost identical to 2x single ek tops.

No prob Jtom good luck on the build


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Cool jtom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll still run the test, but without the deadline.
> I'm interested to find out for myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and others might find the data useful at some stage too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT - @Gabrielzm My feeling from using both single & dual Bitspower D5 tops (no data yet) is that the single will perform on the same sort of scaling as the double - not very well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Data will tell the true story though


I'm actually still interested as well.

The reason I decided against it was because the dual's performance was so bad. With it essentially costing double what a regular top does (with the mod kit) it better be good.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Need to get the other camera out once I add the blue dye:


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Someone here have bad experience with the Koolance RP452-X2 reservoir? Devilhead on OCN told me it was a PITA to bleed air out of ... anybody else got the same experience?


I have used and owned two of them. They are great for what they are designed for and offer some very unique functionality.
The v2 is much improved in terms of bleeding air compared to the 1.3, I had no trouble with it. Running dual serial will always be the hardest but just tipping the case on its back, making the front ports effectively top fill ports and using only pump one to fill and bleed the loop makes it easiest.

There are several threads talking about them if you do a search here.

The often talked about bleeding difficulties of bay reservoirs is a bit over exhagerated. It depends on the individual design. The v2 is one of the better ones. There are tube Res/pump combos that are much worse in terms of not keeping air from recycling to the pump.


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## mironccr345

^


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I've seen a lot of talk regarding eLoops here lately. I'd just like to confirm that I have absolutely no issues with my Noiseblocker brand B12-3's in push/pull configuration mounted on a Alphacool 360 Monsta.


rig looks great! too often i've seen "sagging/drooping" acrylic or subpar bends, but this is spot on man.

and I agree, the eLoops are my preferred fan. they're flawless for me.


----------



## Lefik

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I've seen a lot of talk regarding eLoops here lately. I'd just like to confirm that I have absolutely no issues with my Noiseblocker brand B12-3's in push/pull configuration mounted on a Alphacool 360 Monsta.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fans are controlled by two of these:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=39216






I usually hate that color of coolant deeply, but your build worked out great.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Anyone know how the Bitspower D5 top performs? Can't find any concrete info.
> 
> From what I've seen the Alphacool top performs really well I just don't like the looks of it as much.
> 
> A review or comparison that I missed would be great if anyone has a link.
> 
> 
> 
> How urgently does you purchasing decision need to be made ?
> I can do a flow rate Vs Diff Pressure test and chart it up over the weekend if that helps.
> Check over at my testing thread and I should have it up by Monday morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *My gut feeling is that the Bitspower D5 top (V2) will not be putting out high flow numbers.*
> This is based on some tests I did on it before "better" equipment arrived and testing done with on the Bitspower Dual D5 top with the new equipment.
> The housing seems a bit small to get velocity of the fluid up before exiting.
> And if I remember correctly the ports, outlet especially were quite narrow.
> 
> EDIT - what model D5 are you going to run ?
> If I have it I'll match it up with the top
Click to expand...

It doesnt.

I have possibly the most restrictive loop you can get in the S3,BP D5 top,AMS rads and the infernal AquaC flowmeter......I get 3.2 LPM with the D5 flat out.
However...this loop was not built with performance in mind.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It doesnt.
> 
> I have possibly the most restrictive loop you can get in the S3,BP D5 top,AMS rads and the infernal AquaC flowmeter......I get 3.2 LPM with the D5 flat out.
> However...this loop was not built with performance in mind.


Hah








Couldn't help but laugh at your descriptor of the AC FS.
3.2 isn't too bad and I'm sure if temps were terrible you'ld do something about it.
Looks great though


----------



## wermad

~2.5Lpm with my little DDC


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

PCUPGRADES PROJECT "BLUE PANIC"

SPECS:

Case: Cooler Master HAF X
PSU: Corsair AX860
Mobo: Asus Maximus V formula
CPU: Intel i7 3770k @ 4,8 Ghz
VGA: Asus GTX 770oc @ sli
Ram: 8gb kit Corsair Dominator @ 2000Mhz
SSD: Intel 320 80gb
HDD: 5x Seagte 1tb
Watercooling parts:
EK Waterblocksump, gpu blocks, gpu backplates, cpu block, fittings, radiators 2x
PHOBYA: reservoir
PRIMOCHILL: tubing
MAYHEMS: fluid (Pastel Blueberry)
AIRCOOLING:
CORSAIR: AF 120 and SP 120.
SHARCOON 140
LEDS:
AKASA: Vegas white-blue


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It doesnt.
> 
> I have possibly the most restrictive loop you can get in the S3,BP D5 top,AMS rads and the infernal AquaC flowmeter......I get 3.2 LPM with the D5 flat out.
> However...this loop was not built with performance in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> Hah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't help but laugh at your descriptor of the AC FS.
> 3.2 isn't too bad and I'm sure if temps were terrible you'ld do something about it.
> Looks great though
Click to expand...

All you need todo is look down the flowmeter to see the restriction...the bore narrows massively.


----------



## sdmf74

What are you guys using to test your flow rate? or better yet what are the best options


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> What are you guys using to test your flow rate? or better yet *what are the best options*


That is a fresh wound to open up for me, as it was my little world of frustration for a good couple of weeks
I would like to recommend the Koolance INS-FM18D because it is self sufficient, needing nothing else except a 12v line it can connect to.
The 2 I have tested differed a bit in their calibration, so I kind of hesitate to recommend.
As I said in my test thread though, the difference at our flow rates will not make any noticeable difference - maybe 0.3 lpm variance.

If you have an Aquaero then one of their meters is probably the best avenue to take.
You can adjust the calibration setting which is a great inclusion.
If you don't have an Aquaero then maybe the USB version is worth considering.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> What are you guys using to test your flow rate? or better yet what are the best options


Flow rate using a flow meter? That's way too complicated. In fact who even needs a reservoir? So superfluous.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8716_zpsfe97b914.jpg.html


----------



## sdmf74

is that EK tubing


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> is that EK tubing


Asking me?

It's Tygon A-60-G Norprene 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) from Frozen. It's very stiff and difficult to position, at least it was for my first time water cooling.









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10487/ex-tub-647/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_12_ID_34_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?tl=g30c457s1155&id=yjKf23I4


----------



## Gobigorgohome

What do you guys think about this reservoir? http://www.xs-pc.com/reservoirs/twin-d5-dual-bay-reservoir I have had this in my previous build, and this is the alternative for me, but then I have to mount the reservoir externally (which I am not prepared for).


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> is that EK tubing


I use the EK ZMT 3/8" x 5/8" tubing, it's pretty nice, I tried to find a picture but my build is compact and a little messy it's hard to get a good picture of it. It's really tight on the Barrow compressions I used, but I rather it be tight than loose!


----------



## The Storm

Here are a few pics of my rig in its current state. My 3rd 290 arrives in 2 days, and my block is sitting here patiently waiting on the card. I will update with some new pics when I get it installed. Enjoy.


----------



## VSG

The Swiftech H220x is available for sale, including in the US: http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx

Discount code OCN for 10% off till end of the month!


----------



## Shadowline2553

Well it is all together... made one small mistake in my build order so now I am on one card till I can get a different SLI fitting. Temperatures are great but as I said that is with one card not two.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Asking me?
> 
> It's Tygon A-60-G Norprene 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) from Frozen. It's very stiff and difficult to position, at least it was for my first time water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10487/ex-tub-647/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_12_ID_34_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?tl=g30c457s1155&id=yjKf23I4


you are dead on. Norprene from Tygon might as well be Acrylic tubing.

The EK black tubing (not sure its actual branding / composition) is much more flexible than Tygon norprene.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Here are a few pics of my rig in its current state. My 3rd 290 arrives in 2 days, and my block is sitting here patiently waiting on the card. I will update with some new pics when I get it installed. Enjoy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












I like it!


----------



## Kimir

Smaller Norprene isn't that stiff, I have the 10/13mm ones and yeah it was kinking faster than the MasterKleer I have in the other rig, but that's it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Smaller Norprene isn't that stiff, I have the 10/13mm ones and yeah it was kinking faster than the MasterKleer I have in the other rig, but that's it.


Iv'e only worked with the 1/2 x 3/4 Tygon Norprene, and I ended up having mostly straight runs, with just a few very slight bends as it starts to kink rather quickly.


----------



## royce5950

ya got yer sp120 2 packs, xspc rads, revolver fittings, koolance pump & more of course...



ya got yer various paracord for a grey / black themed sleeve job...



and finally ya got yer cold cathode / atx pins compartment.

I had to move some watercooling / modding equipment I had out of a storage compartment in my fiances portion of the closet... So I had to pack some of it in this big red suit case until further notice?







I must have missed something...


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Someone here have bad experience with the Koolance RP452-X2 reservoir? Devilhead on OCN told me it was a PITA to bleed air out of ... anybody else got the same experience?


I have the smaller version koolance RP-401X2, trying to save some space when I first got coming from XSPC dual bay reservoir of the same size. The XSPC was easier to bleed, my thoughts was cause it was larger, same size as the 452. The 401 was tough to bleed until I went to a larger case, a radiator above filtering down to the reservoir and a reservoir below to bleed. When I wanted to bleed the loop, I open the ports on the top radiator, reservoir and the bottom radiator, which made bleeding really easy. Takes a little to get used to but I think the 452 is a good reservoir and I like the construction. There's a plug that Koolance suggests to add depending if you go series or not, it causes one of the bays to end up with dead water, no movement, I have yet to remove this plug but will remove it eventually and would not use it in the future.





In the bottom picture, you can see two plugs on the top each reservoir, I take those off when filling and you can see the reservoir and the two plugs on that, I remove those when filling. There is a drain port in the lower reservoir, only used for draining, never found I needed that when filling.

Hope that helps a little bit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> What do you guys think about this reservoir? http://www.xs-pc.com/reservoirs/twin-d5-dual-bay-reservoir I have had this in my previous build, and this is the alternative for me, but then I have to mount the reservoir externally (which I am not prepared for).


That is actually the reservoir I was talking about, I didn't like how the mcp35x pumps mounted to the acrylic, I couldn't remove the screws but like the build quality of the Koolance better. I ruined the XSPC removing the pumps.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> rig looks great! too often i've seen "sagging/drooping" acrylic or subpar bends, but this is spot on man.
> 
> and I agree, the eLoops are my preferred fan. they're flawless for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> 
> I usually hate that color of coolant deeply, but your build worked out great.


Thanks fellas!! I really appreciate the compliments.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I have the smaller version koolance RP-401X2, trying to save some space when I first got coming from XSPC dual bay reservoir of the same size. The XSPC was easier to bleed, my thoughts was cause it was larger, same size as the 452. The 401 was tough to bleed until I went to a larger case, a radiator above filtering down to the reservoir and a reservoir below to bleed. When I wanted to bleed the loop, I open the ports on the top radiator, reservoir and the bottom radiator, which made bleeding really easy. Takes a little to get used to but I think the 452 is a good reservoir and I like the construction. There's a plug that Koolance suggests to add depending if you go series or not, it causes one of the bays to end up with dead water, no movement, I have yet to remove this plug but will remove it eventually and would not use it in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the bottom picture, you can see two plugs on the top each reservoir, I take those off when filling and you can see the reservoir and the two plugs on that, I remove those when filling. There is a drain port in the lower reservoir, only used for draining, never found I needed that when filling.
> 
> Hope that helps a little bit.
> That is actually the reservoir I was talking about, I didn't like how the mcp35x pumps mounted to the acrylic, I couldn't remove the screws but like the build quality of the Koolance better. I ruined the XSPC removing the pumps.


I like the XSPC reservoir much better, but the fillport is at a wrong place, because my case is a little weird and have need the reservoir at the side (I can just make a fillport for it, but I did not calculate any modding with the fillport on this build). The big pro for me is that it cost 75 USD less than the Koolance reservoir and the pumps is facing backwards (much easier to adjust rpm of the D5 pumps).

The XSPC reservoir I linked to uses 2x D5 pumps, not MCP35x.

I cracked my XSPC-reservoir when I was cleaning it.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Here are a few pics of my rig in its current state. My 3rd 290 arrives in 2 days, and my block is sitting here patiently waiting on the card. I will update with some new pics when I get it installed. Enjoy.


Beastly looking machine


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> What do you guys think about this reservoir? http://www.xs-pc.com/reservoirs/twin-d5-dual-bay-reservoir I have had this in my previous build, and this is the alternative for me, but then I have to mount the reservoir externally (which I am not prepared for).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I like the XSPC reservoir much better, but the fillport is at a wrong place, because my case is a little weird and have need the reservoir at the side (I can just make a fillport for it, but I did not calculate any modding with the fillport on this build). The big pro for me is that it cost 75 USD less than the Koolance reservoir and the pumps is facing backwards (much easier to adjust rpm of the D5 pumps).
> 
> The XSPC reservoir I linked to uses 2x D5 pumps, not MCP35x.
> 
> I cracked my XSPC-reservoir when I was cleaning it.


I did notice you were using the D5's, figured it was going to be close. I use the Aquero 6 pro to control my mcp35x speeds. Fill ports should be close to the same distance, I just left two bays open above my reservoir but I have the luxury of space with my current build. But I've had single bays above the reservoir in the past to work with and just gave enough flex hose to pull the reservoir our to fill and bleed which was of course, a little more difficult.


----------



## Stateless

Hi All-

I just upgraded my rig to 3 SLI Titan Black Hydro Coppers. In my rig, I have 2 fans that blow air over the cards and over the VRM's on the motherboard. The cards and the CPU are water cooled. I always figured having air blowing over the cards helps to keep things cooler, but not sure if it is of any benefit at all and wondering if I should just pull them out. Here is a pic of my older rig with 2 cards in SLI. You can see the two fans that are positioned to blow air towards the GPU's and the Motherboards VRMS/RAM. Just curious if you guys thing this is a waste or not.

Thanks!


----------



## sinnedone

Question... Should I even consider adding a 120mm st30 or xt45 alphacool(push only) rad to my loop? Will it make any difference in say prolonged multi hour gaming sessions in a case with good airflow?

The loop already consists of alphacool monsta 280(push/pull), st30 280(push), xt45 140(push/pull). It will be cooling a 3770k overclocked at say 1.35v, motherboard block, 2 r9 290's overclocked with an extra 100-200mV.

I'm at a point where Im thinking to try and fit as much rad space as possible, but question if a 120 rad (exhaust rear) will do anything at all in the end.

Thoughts?


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Question... Should I even consider adding a 120mm st30 or xt45 alphacool(push only) rad to my loop? Will it make any difference in say prolonged multi hour gaming sessions in a case with good airflow?
> 
> The loop already consists of alphacool monsta 280(push/pull), st30 280(push), xt45 140(push/pull). It will be cooling a 3770k overclocked at say 1.35v, motherboard block, 2 r9 290's overclocked with an extra 100-200mV.
> 
> I'm at a point where Im thinking to try and fit as much rad space as possible, but question if a 120 rad (exhaust rear) will do anything at all in the end.
> 
> Thoughts?


I don't know much but I asked the question a month or so ago and I was basically told that I'd be looking at 1-2 degree difference adding a 120 to my loop if I was lucky.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you are dead on. Norprene from Tygon might as well be Acrylic tubing.
> 
> The EK black tubing (not sure its actual branding / composition) is much more flexible than Tygon norprene.


I had to use 3 angled rotarys out of only 6 fittings and my watercooling/IT guru in upstate NY told me I was overcomplicating the loop.

I'm like, no this Tygon Norprene at 1/2x3/4 will not flex at all.

Ordered some Primochill LRT in clear, will look at the EK black right now if PPCS carries it, I'll get some.


----------



## stickg1

Purple Drank is back and as potent as ever!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Purple Drank is back and as potent as ever!


I've always thought purple and yellow work extremely well together.

PS. I like that temp sensor sticking out the front of the case too lol


----------



## stickg1

I mostly just wanted it dark as can be because the light blue coolant stuck out. But yeah, I have a couple of random temp sensors like that, that one is my ambient air temp. Then I have one on the exhaust side of each radiator and one water temp sensor right near the pump output.

I'm contemplating my move the an Aquero so I can satisfy my OCD needs with Aquasuite.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Purple Drank is back and as potent as ever!


I see the color blindness has affected you again. That looks much more black to me personally. But then again you went with colored tubing and so if that looks purple to you then stick (lol) with it.

Edit: Saw your ninja post. If you meant to go as dark as possible then ignore my above post


----------



## stickg1

Yeah black was the look I wanted and about 8 drops of purple in a 750mL loop did that for me, lol.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I mostly just wanted it dark as can be because the light blue coolant stuck out. But yeah, I have a couple of random temp sensors like that, that one is my ambient air temp. Then I have one on the exhaust side of each radiator and one water temp sensor right near the pump output.
> 
> I'm contemplating my move the an Aquero so I can satisfy my OCD needs with Aquasuite.


I'm going to have some sensors like that as well when my build is done. Air in and out for both radiators. I'll also have two inline water temp sensors


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Peek a boo


----------



## MrBlunt

are those yours? WOW! how do you have them all lit like that? multi color led's? thats bad ass. what cards are they also?


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Peek a boo


u must explain how you lit up the ek blocks!!! =D this is what i've ben waiting for!


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> are those yours? WOW! how do you have them all lit like that? multi color led's? thats bad ass. what cards are they also?


Yeah there mine there 4X titans and on EK CSQ Blocks and I Can change up to 16.7 Million different colors









THE CSQ bridge is also lit up but not in that pic. Same for the CPU block I can change to any color.


----------



## MrBlunt

can you give lots more details on the lighting?
=)


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> u must explain how you lit up the ek blocks!!! =D this is what i've ben waiting for!


Haha PM me









But I'll do a Guide so you can do this on any water block you want and it's not as hard as you think


----------



## MrBlunt

maybe even a few pics of the lights and how you have them setup?







+rep


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> maybe even a few pics of the lights and how you have them setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep


Ok coming up some more pics.

Guide will follow soon. (Today)

I'll include everything links to buy the specific stuff as well.


----------



## MadHatter5045

The InfernalMachine:







I need to get an LED light strip


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Ok here's a video

http://vid1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/nyxagamemnon/20140719_202054_zps526e6b20.mp4

Guide coming up stay tuned.

Quality is a little crappy had to compress it was too big.


----------



## MrBlunt

cool.. i'm more interested in how you did the light mounting though.. looks really sweet


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Working on it give me a little longer and I'll post it up.

I'll include a video and the part links.


----------



## skupples

I think it is about time to get my third pump, well 2 more pumps running... That is right! i'm going to go with 4 pumps since I have a third, very lonely DDC sitting around ever since my XSPC 3x DDC top blew. The only option to get it running would be adding a 4th pump, with dual 2x pump tops! I would go dual loop, but i'm honestly already on the verge of needing more rads in this STH-10 with 3x 480s & a 360... hmm... Maybe I should get a 1600W PSU or something so I can ditch the 360 & add 2 more 480s.


----------



## VSG

Quad ddc pumps in a single loops may end up harming the loop components. But I am sure you know better than to run them full speed!


----------



## skupples

i'm slightly worried about pressure, even @ low RPM. Only one way to find out! Water tends to run & drip about 1 inch away from my PSU/PSU bridger, i should be good!


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> The InfernalMachine:


I bet that was a pain to fill with that reservoir lol, looks awesome though


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think it is about time to get my third pump, well 2 more pumps running... That is right! i'm going to go with 4 pumps since I have a third, very lonely DDC sitting around ever since my XSPC 3x DDC top blew. The only option to get it running would be adding a 4th pump, with dual 2x pump tops! I would go dual loop, but i'm honestly already on the verge of needing more rads in this STH-10 with 3x 480s & a 360... hmm... Maybe I should get a 1600W PSU or something so I can ditch the 360 & add 2 more 480s.


Wut?









.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think it is about time to get my third pump, well 2 more pumps running... That is right! i'm going to go with 4 pumps since I have a third, very lonely DDC sitting around ever since my XSPC 3x DDC top blew. The only option to get it running would be adding a 4th pump, with dual 2x pump tops! I would go dual loop, but i'm honestly already on the verge of needing more rads in this STH-10 with 3x 480s & a 360... hmm... Maybe I should get a 1600W PSU or something so I can ditch the 360 & add 2 more 480s.
> 
> 
> 
> Wut?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Maybe he missed his medication?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> u must explain how you lit up the ek blocks!!! =D this is what i've ben waiting for!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha PM me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'll do a Guide so you can do this on any water block you want and it's not as hard as you think
Click to expand...

If you do it,I will add to the first post along with all the other helpful guides.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quad ddc pumps in a single loops may end up harming the loop components. But I am sure you know better than to run them full speed!


Not likely,the pressure from these pumps are low. the 3-4 pump has a real chance of burning out tho.
A guy on XS did quad d5's and the last pump in the run was burning out every 2 months or so.

Skupples,you are so wasting money there.....

aw crap......

double post.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you do it,I will add to the first post along with all the other helpful guides.


Okay,

I'm revising it will post it up tom sometime


----------



## ginger_nuts

Has anyone had experience with *Koolance 120x25mm, 90CFM* fans ?

Are they best suited for their rads ? Or other as well ?


----------



## psycho84

Some Pics from my current Setup with Acrylic Tubing and selfmade Midplate


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some Pics from my current Setup with Acrylic Tubing and selfmade Midplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very very nice


----------



## mend0k

Damn all these dyed liquid looks so sweet.. Makes me almost want to use it, only if it wasnt such a pain to clean out after :/


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Anyone knows a liquid that is actually PURPLE and under uv light also PURPLE?
Actually using Mayhems Purple, but with uv it's blue....


----------



## DarthBaggins

They used a UV blue to create the UV purple x1 I'd that's what you're using

I call witchcraft on the multi colored leds on those ek blocks, lol ?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

What do you guys think will be the best aestetics for my upcoming build, use ALOT of 45 degree angled fittings for the loop inside my case, EK-ZMT tubing with compression fittings or use 45 degree angled fittings and nickelplated copper tubing with Bitspower Multi-Link? No bends with the copper tubing though, I do not like the look of bent hard tubing.

Theme is black, will do silver shining fittings anyway, so it does not mather if I use nickelplated copper tubing or fittings when it comes to color scheme. What do you guys think?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Not likely,the pressure from these pumps are low. the 3-4 pump has a real chance of burning out tho.
> A guy on XS did quad d5's and the last pump in the run was burning out every 2 months or so.
> 
> Skupples,you are so wasting money there.....
> 
> aw crap......
> 
> double post.


Yaeh... That you are totally right about... I'm just trying to figure out ways to shove more stuff into my STH10, it looks so empty, but is already chuck full of radiators... I think the better goal would be to some how keep the dual PSU & get two 480s in the bottom.

I should went with a TH10.


----------



## stickg1

I just did my build in ZMT, I loved working with it. Cuts and bends like a dream, can be tough to get the collar of your compression fittings over but that could vary with fittings. I used Barrows. I would have to see a picture of your setup to make a suggestion either way though.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I just did my build in ZMT, I loved working with it. Cuts and bends like a dream, can be tough to get the collar of your compression fittings over but that could vary with fittings. I used Barrows. I would have to see a picture of your setup to make a suggestion either way though.


I am doing RIVBE with Monoblock Acetal+Nickel, 2x EK-Dominator X4, 4x EK-FC R9 290X Acetal+Nickel with EK-FC Terminal Quad Semi Parallell, external MO-RA3 1260 + 2x 480 and 2x 240 together with XSPC Dual D5 5 1/4" bays reservoir (outside of case). I will have tubing from the radiators to the inside of the case with some acrylic glass with holes for the tubing, this will probably go to the first RAM-block (on the left hand side of the motherboard) and the other tube will probably come from the Terminal bridge I guess.

I did test with a Bitspower compression fitting and got worried about the tubing, because it was very narrow and I did not really got the "top" of the compression fitting on the barb with the tube in between, but I am sure it is going just fine when I use a little more force on it though. I have only used Tygon R3603 (or whatever) of tubing and I have done both "all fitting loops" and "copper tubing only loops" and I do not think much of bends on hard tubing (it was kind of a PITA to get perfect), and the second part of the hard tubing bending is that it takes a long time to make perfect. The result become pretty good though, but for this build I want something practical and easy to install.


----------



## techjesse

My ST10


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I bet that was a pain to fill with that reservoir lol, looks awesome though


Thanks! It did take a few more cycles but oh well, that res is a world of better quality compared to the Phobya one I was using, and judging from pics I saw earlier it's a good thing I switched it.


----------



## MiiX

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sbay-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-pump.html
Measurements anyone? Depth is what I really need...

SGS4


----------



## DarthBaggins

that looks very similar to my Aqua-computer res. . minus my pump is separate from the res's housing


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some Pics from my current Setup with Acrylic Tubing and selfmade Midplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


DUDE. YES.

I love it. Excellent work man.

Did you mount those clips to the GPUs to hold the vga cables in position?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-sbay-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-pump.html
> Measurements anyone? Depth is what I really need...
> 
> SGS4


Perhaps @derickwm (OCN's EK rep) will weigh in definitively, or you might contact EK support, but just by looking at the image the bottom of that pump is ~60mm square I believe so I'd venture that res is probably right about 10cm deep.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> DUDE. YES.
> 
> I love it. Excellent work man.
> 
> Did you mount those clips to the GPUs to hold the vga cables in position?


^This! Looks fantastic.

It just needs a solution to keeping the 24pin cabling parallel with the gpu cables and it would be damn near perfect.


----------



## Render33

Looks great, nice job man. What did you use to create your mid plate?


----------



## mrinfinit3

Here my lil' rig. still a work in progress but figured I haven't posted pic here in a while:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ah, I know of Emazing lights, they carry a huge variety of LEDs


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I am aware many of you are like myself and you usually just buy your LED lights off of ppcs or fcpu but if youd like a 27 mode led or youd like the option to choose a TON of colors while still at a fair price try out emazinglights.com!! I saw on the previous page that there were a lot of people interested in how a fellow overclock net user had gotten his LED lights to change so many different colors and I wanted to also offer my method of doing so if I were to go about doing what he did. They have a wide array of LED lights and even if the LEDs are in small tinycases already they are easily removed to wire up to a 2 /3 pin or a molex.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Ah, I know of Emazing lights, they carry a huge variety of LEDs


Emazing lights is where I got my first LEDs for raving







hahaha


----------



## mus1mus

Gang, any feedback on Alphacool's Cool Answer D5/UT kit?

Your insight on issues (if there are) would mean a lot. ?


----------



## morencyam

I use superbrightleds.com for all my LED needs. Great prices, big selection, and fast reasonably priced shipping. And I'm always getting emails with coupons.


----------



## jtom320

Ok so I have a question this might seem like an odd place for it but I figured you guys may actually be the best ones to ask.

I'm going to be buying a Z97 deluxe or Pro. Have not decided yet.

What I'd like to do is take the gold heatsinks off and repaint them. I'd like to do a chrome look since that's what all my fittings are. My question is what you guys think would be the best way to do that. Like what kind of paint I should use. Not so much how to get it off the board as they come off fairly easily on those boards.

I may also do black as chrome may end up looking really gaudy. Maybe someone could shed some light on that. I'd like them to match Monsoons free center compression fitting chrome color.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Gang, any feedback on Alphacool's Cool Answer D5/UT kit?


The pump is made by Laing, so that's trustworthy. And the fans are made by Blacknoise, so they are good also.


----------



## blackfox2526

hi everybody :
i have a question
i was going to buy Primochill G1/4" Thread Rigid Ghost Compression Fitting for my Monsoon 1/2" OD Hardline Tubes from frozencpu but at the end of the page it saying : -These only work with 1/2" OD Rigid Primochill Tubing !!!!!!
so my question is : is it ok to use primochill ghost compression fitting with monsoon hardline tubes or it not gonna connect properly???

monsoon
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22775/ex-tub-2717/Monsoon_12_OD_Hardline_Tube_-_1x_30_Single_-_Clear_ATH-3812-1-CL.html?tl=g30c633s2228

primochill
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21032/ex-tub-1979/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Ghost_Compression_Fittings_-_4_Pack_-_Nickel_Plated_Brass_-_Black.html?tl=g30c703s2021

any help appreciated.
thanks


----------



## lowfat

Yes they will work fine together.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Anyone have experience with "orderable" EK products from FCPU? Will it really not be more than 18 days at most?


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> very very nice


Thx








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> DUDE. YES.
> 
> I love it. Excellent work man.
> 
> Did you mount those clips to the GPUs to hold the vga cables in position?


Thx







And yes i mount them for that. The Clips are normally for better Cablemanagment at the Backside of the MB-Tray put they fit perfectly with the holes from the Stock Aircooler of the GPU's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> ^This! Looks fantastic.
> 
> It just needs a solution to keeping the 24pin cabling parallel with the gpu cables and it would be damn near perfect.


I'm working for a Solution









@all

Next Weekend comes a little Update. I built some Covers for the 5,25" Bay and the Monsta Radiator...

And a Question: Should i paint the EVGA SLI Bridge in matt Black ?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Anyone have experience with "orderable" EK products from FCPU? Will it really not be more than 18 days at most?


I have ordered like this from them in the past and it is usually something that they have on order from the vendor and are waiting for delivery. Last time I ordered something like this, they shipped it 2 days later.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Here my lil' rig. still a work in progress but figured I haven't posted pic here in a while:


That looks great, could you post a close up of those fittings? I haven't seen any pictures of the economies installed


----------



## Shogon

Thought I'd never be done!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> [...] @all
> 
> Next Weekend comes a little Update. I built some Covers for the 5,25" Bay and the Monsta Radiator...
> 
> And a Question: *Should i paint the EVGA SLI Bridge in matt Black ?*


I probably would. I'd also paint the side of that silver whatever (fan controller?) in the 5.25" bay while I was at it so it didn't stand out so much, but that would all just be a bit of OCD-ish nitpickery for an already beeeeeeauuutiful build you have there.


----------



## 86 5.0L

Giving x58 one last hurrah.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> That looks great, could you post a close up of those fittings? I haven't seen any pictures of the economies installed


Do these pics work for you?



If not, I can run in and take a couple pics of them on a block for ya

I just can't believe they shot up in price so much...when I bought them a few months ago they were $20USD per 6 pack (3x sets + 3-day shipping came to $74.55)...now they're listed @ $28.99. I mean still, not a bad deal; but that's what... A 40-45% increase in cost over a 2 month period?
I chose these fittings because I liked the lower profile...more "stealthy" in a way; else I probably would have went with the Primochill.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The pump is made by Laing, so that's trustworthy. And the fans are made by Blacknoise (Noise blocker E-loops), so they are good also.


Looks very good indeed. The package cost is really cheap compared to the sum of its parts.

Local prices say Block + Radiator + Pump-res are already more expensive than the kit itself. 480mm kit is still around 400$ though.









However,I'd like to know more of the issues (if there are) before jumping on to it.

Thanks mate!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought I'd never be done!


Dude, I like that a lot!









The CPU block looks like a sexy ninja star, is that a MIPS?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *86 5.0L*
> 
> Giving x58 one last hurrah.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice.









I also recently brought my old X58 rig back to life with spare parts. Didn't run a custom loop, but the H100 does a good job and is still "technically" water cooling.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also recently brought my old X58 rig back to life with spare parts. Didn't run a custom loop, but the H100 does a good job and is still "technically" water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice to see it up and running. I bet Wifey's loving it?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also recently brought my old X58 rig back to life with spare parts. Didn't run a custom loop, but the H100 does a good job and is still "technically" water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to see it up and running. I bet Wifey's loving it?
Click to expand...

Haha yes, handles her web browsing and coupon printing just fine.








And my kids love playing Minecraft on it.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some Pics from my current Setup with Acrylic Tubing and selfmade Midplate


Very nice build, and what a case!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Haha yes, handles her web browsing and coupon printing just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my kids love playing Minecraft on it.


My kids just got really into Minecraft recently. They seem to really enjoy it.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Dude, I like that a lot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The CPU block looks like a sexy ninja star, is that a MIPS?


Yup! Good ol' MIPS IceForce HF! I think B Negative is using one as well in his new build. I just *had* to buy another one of those MIPS blocks before they are all gone. I love my MIPS blocks on my Rampage IV so I had to do it again for this one







. Still shed a tear every once in a while they are gone.

Thanks again! I think I have to sleeve the PSU wires in the future though for a cleaner look, and plenty of other stuff (I became very lazy at points when routing the pipe). Hopefully I can close the side panel on this Parvum case, the Classified is quite wide in there









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also recently brought my old X58 rig back to life with spare parts. Didn't run a custom loop, but the H100 does a good job and is still "technically" water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Woah old BFG cards! What are those 260s, 280s or 285s?







Nice job on it none the less!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *86 5.0L*
> 
> Giving x58 one last hurrah.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Foxconn boards! I wish I had bought one at some point in time, it looks really nice with the blocks. Hope you can get a good overclock on that 920!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Yup! Good ol' MIPS IceForce HF! I
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> think B Negative is using one as well in his new build. I just *had* to buy another one of those MIPS blocks before they are all gone. I love my MIPS blocks on my Rampage IV so I had to do it again for this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still shed a tear every once in a while they are gone.
> 
> Thanks again! I think I have to sleeve the PSU wires in the future though for a cleaner look, and plenty of other stuff (I became very lazy at points when routing the pipe). Hopefully I can close the side panel on this Parvum case, the Classified is quite wide in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woah old BFG cards! What are those 260s, 280s or 285s?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job on it none the less!
> Foxconn boards! I wish I had bought one at some point in time, it looks really nice with the blocks. Hope you can get a good overclock on that 920!


Hey Shogon

did you got from PPC? Can you confirm is it came with mounting material for the lga 2011?


----------



## Grecko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Very nice build, and what a case!


Nice and clean !!


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Hey Shogon
> 
> did you got from PPC? Can you confirm is it came with mounting material for the lga 2011?


Yes I did buy it from PPC's. That block I linked though is NOT for socket 2011. It is only for 115x and 1366. BUT, I see you have a Rampage 4 Extreme, and you are in luck because of this little feature called X-Socket.

So, you may be able to use that block


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Yes I did buy it from PPC's. That block I linked though is NOT for socket 2011. It is only for 115x and 1366. BUT, I see you have a Rampage 4 Extreme, and you are in luck because of this little feature called X-Socket.
> 
> So, you may be able to use that block


Thks mate. Yep. The thing is fast_fate mentioned to me that mips actually give with that block mounting material for 2011. I guess that is old stock that PPC have. It is an amazing block and agree with you very sad mips is out for good...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Hey Shogon
> 
> did you got from PPC? Can you confirm is it came with mounting material for the lga 2011?


Got mine from Performance-PCs. Here's a pic of the instructions:

For 1155/1156/1366 & 2011


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks mate. Yep. The thing is fast_fate mentioned to me that mips actually give with that block mounting material for 2011. I guess that is old stock that PPC have. It is an amazing block and agree with you very sad mips is out for good...


Well it turns out the PPC's MIPS is the all-for-one block, so what fate was mentioning is true I would say! With 2011 you don't use the standoffs it includes, those are for 115x/1366 only.

Thanks gdubc for posting that photo! It made me dig mine out and looking at it+my block it does work for 1155, 1156, 1366, and 2011.


----------



## fast_fate

for OCN Iceforce users


----------



## paopaovocal

A little update for my pc.


----------



## Janac

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/611764.pdf

Any opinion on these fans please? Good noise wise for 16FPI Rad ?


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for OCN Iceforce users


To MIPS









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little update for my pc.


What kind of paint did you use? Or, is that even paint at all? I haven't seen that done before, it looks very nice!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/611764.pdf
> 
> Any opinion on these fans please? Good noise wise for 16FPI Rad ?


Hmm. Haven't heard of them before. Can't say honestly.


----------



## paopaovocal

Quote:


> What kind of paint did you use? Or, is that even paint at all? I haven't seen that done before, it looks very nice!


I use printed cardboard that I found in stationery store.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also recently brought my old X58 rig back to life with spare parts. Didn't run a custom loop, but the H100 does a good job and is still "technically" water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woah old BFG cards! What are those 260s, 280s or 285s?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job on it none the less!
Click to expand...

Good eye. Old 260's still doing work.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/611764.pdf
> 
> Any opinion on these fans please? Good noise wise for 16FPI Rad ?


I'd imagine them loud. They also don't seem to undervolt low enough. Center hub is also a bit big. (bigger dead spot in the middle of the fans for Rad)


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for OCN Iceforce users


Can I join







?


----------



## aaroc

250l/h is to much flow for a loop?
What flow is considered the minimum and maximum acceptable?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Mips Under way, thks guys for the input.















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> 250l/h is to much flow for a loop?
> What flow is considered the minimum and maximum acceptable?


250l/h is perfectly fine which gives you around 1.1 GPM, which would be good for bleeding. In a different set up of my loop (with cards in parallel) I was getting ~1.6 GPM or ~360 l/h tops. Most likely you don't need that much for 24 h use and you can back down the pump a little and do just fine. Some people even found that backing down the pump rpm improves temperature since pump at higher rpm will generate heat that depending on your pump will get dump in the water. So if you loop is fully bleed and you are reading 250l/h you probably can safely down the pump to 180-160 l/h without much worry (even less still). Unless you have dozens of gpu blocks in parallel.

just to give you an example. My 2x d5 get me around 1 gpm (~3.60 l/m or 215 l/h) in my loop at 100%. I can back down the two to 30% and still be perfectly fine at 125 l/h...All of this assuming my AQ flow meter is reading correctly which is another story right @fast_fate?

as for minimum and maximum most loops would usually run between 0.5 to 1.5 GPM. So you are perfectly safe at 250 l/h

hope it helps


----------



## fast_fate

Flow Meter Calibration sucked...
until I tried Martin's RPM calibration technique.
Take the tach pin from the AC plug and put in a separate 3 pin fan plug to get your rpm reading.
Then multiply the RPM reading by .0034 to get your current flow rate in gpm.
Then adjust your PPL calibration setting in AquaSuite on or Aquaero to give you on the fly calibrations which are very accurate









For the mechanical Aqua Computer flow sensors I highly recommend calibrating them using Martin's RPM meathod.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Flow Meter Calibration sucked...
> until I tried Martin's RPM calibration technique.
> Take the tach pin from the AC plug and put in a separate 3 pin fan plug to get your rpm reading.
> Then multiply the RPM reading by .0034 to get your current flow rate in gpm.
> Then adjust your PPL calibration setting in AquaSuite on or Aquaero to give you on the fly calibrations which are very accurate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mechanical Aqua Computer flow sensors I highly recommend calibrating them using Martin's RPM meathod.


Were you using 1/2 fittings or 3/8 mate?


----------



## aaroc

Thanks! I just wanted to be sure that the loop will not explode and kill my hardware. I am using an Aqua Computer Aquastream XT Utra and used the deaeration jumper all night long after filling the loop. Reading the flow with an Aqua Computer High Flow USB.









I read Martins guide and bought the flow meter for the second Pro statement

PROS

Exceptional accuracy when calibrated (<2% error)
*Good accuracy using default calibration values (<7% error)*


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Were you using 1/2 fittings or 3/8 mate?


Well actually.....
1/2" x 3/4 " tubing
and all fittings are/were Bitspower 1/2" x 3/4" compressions EXCEPT the in & out of the King flow meter which are 5/8 barbs.

I haven't yet tried it with any other tube/fitting size, but please feel free to post your results in the (soon to be renamed) OCN Community Water Cooling Test Thread

Perhaps @B NEGATIVE would consider putting a link on the OP of this club after the poll finishes and the renaming of the test thread happens.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I wanted an iceforce for so long..


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'd imagine them loud. They also don't seem to undervolt low enough. Center hub is also a bit big. (bigger dead spot in the middle of the fans for Rad)


Thank you very much.

What about Xilence Red Wing 120mm ?



I have 2 of them, yes they are quiet, but what about on radiators? Is CFM good?

U can barely hear these fans even when no other noise is present...


----------



## royce5950

Question friends,

I got a koolance pmp-300 not long ago on sale from performance PCs and I was curious if anybody knew if it would be powerful enough to run with a full cover ek graphics card block , ek 240 mm radiator and a 250ml alphacool tube res? All on acrylic tubing. I think its an older pump but I wanted to make sure it was powerful enough to run in that setup.

I got it for a new build but leave it to phobya to make a crappy pump lol...

There is a pump that phobya sells and it looks exactly like a pump the EK sells too. I know it's common for companies to produce the same pump and rebrand it with their name. In this case I dont belive that EK and phobya have the same pump but I may be wrong. This pump is only about 4 months old though and I don't I think EK would produce something like this... in fact I almost want to say I put money on it they wouldnt. But then again you just never know. Just a warning to those who consider buying this pump in the future and can't decide between the phobya pump or the EK pump.

The phobya pump I'm referring to is the dc12-400. The EK version is identical but Id trust the EK version. Poor phobya, they just cant stop producing crap...

but I would really appreciate the answer on that pmp-300. Thanks in advance everyone.


----------



## royce5950




----------



## fast_fate

The Koolance PMP 300 is the least powerful of the Koolance pump line up.



It looks to start off low and drops away quite quick when restriction is applied.
I would have my doubts it would be strong enough to be effective in anything more than the single block loop you describe.
But it might just be OK for what you are thinking of doing.

If it was me, I'ld steer clear of it, but as you already have it in hand......
tough call


----------



## M0rphin3

My first go on water

Gigabyte Z97-SOC Force motherboard
i5 4690k @ 4.6ghz - 1.25v
GSkill Ares 2x4gb 1600 memory
EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 80+ Gold
OCZ Vertex 4 128gb SSD
Sapphire R9-270x Toxic Edition in Crossfire

Loop:
XSPC EX360 & EX240 Rads
XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
EK Thermosphere Universal GPU Blocks
XSPC X20 750 v4 Res/pump - Really thinking about changing to D5/Photon Tube Res
Primochill Ghost fittings and Primochill UV Orange Acrylic tubing
Bittspower Drain valve, XSPC 4 way adapter, Monsoon Silver Plug, Enzotech 20mm M/M rotary adapter







Will update with a few more pics soon.


----------



## Kimir

I call it a success, all the orange match, even the wall! Well done.


----------



## The Muffin Man

Hopefully you guys dont mind this question,
I've got all my acrylic tube and fun stuff other than the silicone rod (cant get it in Australia it seems).
I can get silicone vacuum hose however its $24 for 3m (sold in packets), but I can get Nitrile Oring Cord for MUCH cheaper, although the operating temperature is lower, will it still work?
Or will it melt in the acrylic tube when heated....D:


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rphin3*
> 
> My first go on water
> 
> Gigabyte Z97-SOC Force motherboard
> i5 4690k @ 4.6ghz - 1.25v
> GSkill Ares 2x4gb 1600 memory
> EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 80+ Gold
> OCZ Vertex 4 128gb SSD
> Sapphire R9-270x Toxic Edition in Crossfire
> 
> Loop:
> XSPC EX360 & EX240 Rads
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> EK Thermosphere Universal GPU Blocks
> XSPC X20 750 v4 Res/pump - Really thinking about changing to D5/Photon Tube Res
> Primochill Ghost fittings and Primochill UV Orange Acrylic tubing
> Bittspower Drain valve, XSPC 4 way adapter, Monsoon Silver Plug, Enzotech 20mm M/M rotary adapter
> 
> 
> 
> Will update with a few more pics soon.


Very nice work! Definitely something to be proud of.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Well here is my machine, short of the 2nd GPU...
 
 


As soon as I get the sli connector and another angled fitting into the build my 2nd 780 will go.


----------



## VSG

Some very cool mods (most arel watercooled in one way or the other) from Quakecon:


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The Koolance PMP 300 is the least powerful of the Koolance pump line up.
> 
> 
> 
> It looks to start off low and drops away quite quick when restriction is applied.
> 
> I would have my doubts it would be strong enough to be effective in anything more than the single block loop you describe.
> 
> But it might just be OK for what you are thinking of doing.
> 
> If it was me, I'ld steer clear of it, but as you already have it in hand......
> 
> tough call


Thanks for the quick reply. Appreciate that you went in depth and included a graph is well.
Of course I'll be using acrylic tubing so I'll try to keep in mind to make the runs short and I'll try to not include any steep inclines...
If that will even help at all, I don't know... Lol


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> I use printed cardboard that I found in stationery store.


Huh, no wonder it seemed so strange to me! Looks very nice and original, plus it's a pattern you don't typically see in builds on here.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Good eye. Old 260's still doing work.


Very nice! I still have an old EVGA GTX 280SC that's kicking it, sold it to a friend for $30 (didn't expect it to produce double the frames of his APU given how old this card is). Were hoping it dies soon so he gets a GTX 580 as RMA upgrade from EVGA. Few weeks ago my other friend's 480 died and EVGA replaced it with a 580. I







lifetime warranty and EVGA.


----------



## dallas1990

i like that gpu block. wish there was one for mt evga 780ti classy


----------



## Gualichu04

Is there any dual threaded fitting that i could use to attack a drain valve to the radiator. this one I have no idea where to put it in my loop. Here is a pic of the setup. Will have two gpus in the loop and i already know how I want to connect everything besides the drain valve.


----------



## morencyam

Any male to male threaded adapter would work. They are various ones available from different manufacturers


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rphin3*
> 
> My first go on water
> 
> Gigabyte Z97-SOC Force motherboard
> i5 4690k @ 4.6ghz - 1.25v
> GSkill Ares 2x4gb 1600 memory
> EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 80+ Gold
> OCZ Vertex 4 128gb SSD
> Sapphire R9-270x Toxic Edition in Crossfire
> 
> Loop:
> XSPC EX360 & EX240 Rads
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> EK Thermosphere Universal GPU Blocks
> XSPC X20 750 v4 Res/pump - Really thinking about changing to D5/Photon Tube Res
> Primochill Ghost fittings and Primochill UV Orange Acrylic tubing
> Bittspower Drain valve, XSPC 4 way adapter, Monsoon Silver Plug, Enzotech 20mm M/M rotary adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update with a few more pics soon.


That is.... Incredibly gorgeous!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The Koolance PMP 300 is the least powerful of the Koolance pump line up.
> 
> 
> 
> It looks to start off low and drops away quite quick when restriction is applied.
> 
> I would have my doubts it would be strong enough to be effective in anything more than the single block loop you describe.
> 
> But it might just be OK for what you are thinking of doing.
> 
> If it was me, I'ld steer clear of it, but as you already have it in hand......
> 
> tough call
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. Appreciate that you went in depth and included a graph is well.
> Of course I'll be using acrylic tubing so I'll try to keep in mind to make the runs short and I'll try to not include any steep inclines...
> If that will even help at all, I don't know... Lol
Click to expand...

What about adding another one to increase the head pressure and maintain the flow?









+Redundant pump works wonders.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thank you very much.
> 
> What about Xilence Red Wing 120mm ?
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 of them, yes they are quiet, but what about on radiators? Is CFM good?
> 
> U can barely hear these fans even when no other noise is present...


Most recommend Gentle Typhoons for their Static Pressure for Radiators. But there's a little scarcity in supplies nowadays.









Cougars are also good performers and cheaper. As well as the Noise Blockers for their silence. But demn expensive.









Static pressure is more important for radiators as most say especially with thicker rads. More than 1.0 mmHg rating will be enough for most use (I guess) and a hint of CFM will push things further.









Some do Push-Pull to increase the static pressure (rather, maintain it while silencing or _undervolting_ them) but will require more space from your case.

Hope that helps.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rphin3*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My first go on water
> 
> Gigabyte Z97-SOC Force motherboard
> i5 4690k @ 4.6ghz - 1.25v
> GSkill Ares 2x4gb 1600 memory
> EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 80+ Gold
> OCZ Vertex 4 128gb SSD
> Sapphire R9-270x Toxic Edition in Crossfire
> 
> Loop:
> XSPC EX360 & EX240 Rads
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> EK Thermosphere Universal GPU Blocks
> XSPC X20 750 v4 Res/pump - Really thinking about changing to D5/Photon Tube Res
> Primochill Ghost fittings and Primochill UV Orange Acrylic tubing
> Bittspower Drain valve, XSPC 4 way adapter, Monsoon Silver Plug, Enzotech 20mm M/M rotary adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update with a few more pics soon
> 
> 
> .


me like it! Very good job!!
















Edit: HTPC cries for some orange lovin'


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rphin3*
> 
> My first go on water
> 
> Gigabyte Z97-SOC Force motherboard
> i5 4690k @ 4.6ghz - 1.25v
> GSkill Ares 2x4gb 1600 memory
> EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 80+ Gold
> OCZ Vertex 4 128gb SSD
> Sapphire R9-270x Toxic Edition in Crossfire
> 
> Loop:
> XSPC EX360 & EX240 Rads
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> EK Thermosphere Universal GPU Blocks
> XSPC X20 750 v4 Res/pump - Really thinking about changing to D5/Photon Tube Res
> Primochill Ghost fittings and Primochill UV Orange Acrylic tubing
> Bittspower Drain valve, XSPC 4 way adapter, Monsoon Silver Plug, Enzotech 20mm M/M rotary adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update with a few more pics soon.


That is absolutely beautiful. All the orange matches so well. Great work


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Looking at that again... Wait.... There's a UV orange tubing by primochill? .... .......Tempting. Wonder how it glows!


----------



## M0rphin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I call it a success, all the orange match, even the wall! Well done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Very nice work! Definitely something to be proud of.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That is.... Incredibly gorgeous!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> me like it! Very good job!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: HTPC cries for some orange lovin'


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That is absolutely beautiful. All the orange matches so well. Great work


Thank you all for the positive comments, I have been a long time reader and lurker but finally pulled the trigger on a new build that would be "worthy" of this thread. the "HTPC" is actually a virtual server "ESXI" host for vSphere. It was thrown together in about 2 hours and back up and running. It is actually the next point of interest to get everything tied together color wise as it just looks terrible imho but its functional. couldnt find a 1155 m-itx board for it that i liked and didnt really need to switch over to 1150 just for the 100+ available boards. There are still a few small things i need to finish, the top cover of the HAF935 needs modded due to the top 3 fans just not sure how i want to approach it yet.

Like i said this is my first attempt at water and although it looks really good it needed to be functional and i have not done the research and compared my temps with other data to see if the loop is actually functioning to its potential.? maybe you guys could help me with that if i get you some data and temps..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Looking at that again... Wait.... There's a UV orange tubing by primochill? .... .......Tempting. Wonder how it glows!


This is also something i need to try out, dont have any uv lights anymore but very tempting to purchase something just for the ???? factor.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rphin3*
> 
> This is also something i need to try out, dont have any uv lights anymore but very tempting to purchase something just for the ???? factor.


And it's also tempting to switch to that particular colour of tubing for when I eventually build my first watercooled rig. Soooo sexy!


----------



## zzorro

No work.. looking work








little upgrade and item add..
-mobo wb
-long res for EK 2.2X
-new layout and loop coolant color

*before..*











*after..*


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rphin3*
> 
> My first go on water
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Gigabyte Z97-SOC Force motherboard
> i5 4690k @ 4.6ghz - 1.25v
> GSkill Ares 2x4gb 1600 memory
> EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 80+ Gold
> OCZ Vertex 4 128gb SSD
> Sapphire R9-270x Toxic Edition in Crossfire
> 
> Loop:
> XSPC EX360 & EX240 Rads
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> EK Thermosphere Universal GPU Blocks
> XSPC X20 750 v4 Res/pump - Really thinking about changing to D5/Photon Tube Res
> Primochill Ghost fittings and Primochill UV Orange Acrylic tubing
> Bittspower Drain valve, XSPC 4 way adapter, Monsoon Silver Plug, Enzotech 20mm M/M rotary adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update with a few more pics soon.


Nicely done!!







Took the plunge right into acrylic as did I.


----------



## vaporizer

i haven't added to the gallery in some time.



edit: opps looks like i posted this a few weeks ago here. i will lay off of the sauce and stop re-posting pics.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Well, it's not much, but this is my "Swamp" build! Not really done, but close.

Thanks - T


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> i haven't added to the gallery in some time.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice build.


tyvm. if you saw the rest of the case, you might change your mind.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> No work.. looking work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> little upgrade and item add..
> -mobo wb
> -long res for EK 2.2X
> -new layout and loop coolant color
> 
> *before..*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *after..*


Love this!


----------



## psycho84

Some little Changes









(ATX-Cord now straight like PCIe-Cords ; Aquaero Mounting now matt Black ; 5,25" Bay Cover and Top Radi Cover ; SLI Bridge now matt Black )


----------



## Grecko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> No work.. looking work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> little upgrade and item add..
> -mobo wb
> -long res for EK 2.2X
> -new layout and loop coolant color
> 
> *before..*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *after..*


Woww it's look so nice !!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Spoilers for quote pics please.


----------



## koniu777

hello everyone







been awhile since i have posted any pics in this thread... My latest creation


----------



## fakeblood

Very tidy! Good work


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Very tidy! Good work


Thank you, I have to admit that I have seen your TJ07 build before and you were part of the inspiration for a clean looking build


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Hallo, I have a problem, I ordered 5x Fujipoly Ultra Extreme 0,5 mm thick and that is just enough for about two cards .... I thought it was enough for all four, shipping from Frozencpu takes at least one week from the date I order (which I do not have the time for now). How bad is the memory-thermal pad from EK? I have enough of the 1 mm thick thermal pad though (which will cover vrm's), but I do not have enough for the memory, can I just use the EK-thermal pad then?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Hallo, I have a problem, I ordered 5x Fujipoly Ultra Extreme 0,5 mm thick and that is just enough for about two cards .... I thought it was enough for all four, shipping from Frozencpu takes at least one week from the date I order (which I do not have the time for now). How bad is the memory-thermal pad from EK? I have enough of the 1 mm thick thermal pad though (which will cover vrm's), but I do not have enough for the memory, can I just use the EK-thermal pad then?


as i know you dont need fuji on the memory go with ek


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> as i know you dont need fuji on the memory go with ek


Okay, then I have wasted 75 bucks .... great!


----------



## defiler2k

New toy to WC


----------



## VSG

You can hook up two 0.5mm pads to make 1 1mm pad and use it with the VRMs.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, then I have wasted 75 bucks .... great!


I would have gone with the middle of the road option, also FCPU seems to tax hard on Fujipoly. You can get entire sheets of it from PerformancePCs for like $35-$40. It of course is ONLY 11w, but I really don't think it matters. Specially if you aren't going to be pushing your cards to the utter limits with high end voltage mods & what not.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> hello everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> been awhile since i have posted any pics in this thread... My latest creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! Are those copper pipes with chrome plating or just straight copper?

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> hello everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> been awhile since i have posted any pics in this thread... My latest creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice! Are those copper pipes with chrome plating or just straight copper?
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Thanks, those are polished copper. Over the weekend I'll drag the case outside for some better pics.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## sdcalihusker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some little Changes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (ATX-Cord now straight like PCIe-Cords ; Aquaero Mounting now matt Black ; 5,25" Bay Cover and Top Radi Cover ; SLI Bridge now matt Black )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love your rig!


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some little Changes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (ATX-Cord now straight like PCIe-Cords ; Aquaero Mounting now matt Black ; 5,25" Bay Cover and Top Radi Cover ; SLI Bridge now matt Black )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have to say this is probably one of my fav builds I've seen. Love it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Thank you, I have to admit that I have seen your TJ07 build before and you were part of the inspiration for a clean looking build


Aww shucks. Glad I could be part of the inspiration.


----------



## llamaegg

Just for confirmation, going serial or parallel with a bridge doesn't really matter anymore right? It's pretty much at worst a couple degree difference and if anything the cosmetics is the deciding factor now?

Need to shoot Dazmode a email about a custom order with a few EK waterblocks and trying to decide between the two acyclic bridges.


----------



## Ksireaper

I am about to order my parts.



XSPC EX480 Copper Quad-Fan Radiator x 2
Rigid Revolver Compression Fitting 3/8" x 1/2" Diamond Knurled 10 Pack - Anodized Black
XSPC Razor GTX Titan / 780 / 780Ti V2 F x 2
D5 Photon 270 Reservoir/Pump Comboull Cover Water Block x 1 (acidentally slected 2 on the site)
Mayhems Silver Coil 99.999 Pure Fine Silver

I will be cooling the following:

i7-4790k
2 x GTX 780

All will be heavily overclocked and i want it nic and quiet so i went with lots of rads and will b going with slow fans.

I would like to stick with XSPC parts as i like the look of their parts

Any advice on those parts?

Will the Kill Coil be enough for that loop?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*
> 
> I am about to order my parts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC EX480 Copper Quad-Fan Radiator x 2
> Rigid Revolver Compression Fitting 3/8" x 1/2" Diamond Knurled 10 Pack - Anodized Black
> XSPC Razor GTX Titan / 780 / 780Ti V2 F x 2
> D5 Photon 270 Reservoir/Pump Comboull Cover Water Block x 1 (acidentally slected 2 on the site)
> Mayhems Silver Coil 99.999 Pure Fine Silver
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I will be cooling the following:
> 
> i7-4790k
> 2 x GTX 780
> 
> All will be heavily overclocked and i want it nic and quiet so i went with lots of rads and will b going with slow fans.
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to stick with XSPC parts as i like the look of their parts
> 
> Any advice on those parts?
> 
> Will the Kill Coil be enough for that loop?


Do you have a case that can fit two 480 rads and a photon 270 D5 combo? Keep in mind that that res/pump combo is 350mm (13.78") tall. Also you are buying Primochill's rigid compressions so I assume you will also be getting 3/8" x 1/2" acrylic tubing or something similar to go with it. If you are going to bend the acrylic you'll need the proper tools (heatgun, saw, bending cord, etc) and some extra tubing to learn with if you haven't bent acrylic before.


----------



## mus1mus

Checking his previous posts, he's around everywhere and could have gathered most of the info he needs.










Edit: me pulling the trigger for the Alphacool Cool Answer 480 D5/UT.


----------



## Ksireaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Do you have a case that can fit two 480 rads and a photon 270 D5 combo? Keep in mind that that res/pump combo is 350mm (13.78") tall. Also you are buying Primochill's rigid compressions so I assume you will also be getting 3/8" x 1/2" acrylic tubing or something similar to go with it. If you are going to bend the acrylic you'll need the proper tools (heatgun, saw, bending cord, etc) and some extra tubing to learn with if you haven't bent acrylic before.


I have the 900D sitting next to me.

And the Acrylic arrived from McMaster-Carr.









I'm really curious about the materials in the loop. I assume since i am all XSPC i would not have issues with Corrosion. Hoping the Silver Kill Coil will suffice for growth.


----------



## Lefik

Some radiators and fans for testing arrived:


The coating on the new Black Ice radiators doesn't look so great up close, but I quite like it from afar.
 
 
AeroCool Dead Silence with its odd golf balls.


----------



## jtom320

Just received the Aquacomputer Aqualis 450 ml version. Still about a week or so away from building but man it's the nicest res I've ever seen/held bar none. Although to be fair that total is three ever in person lol. Love Aquacomputer stuff.

Also got a Alphacool D5 pump top which seems nice as well.

Once I get my motherboard sorted out in a week all the new stuff is going in pretty excited.

Also I asked this question in here and no one seemed to know for sure. So just in case anyone ever reads this and is wondering it does fit in a 750D. Anything longer then a 290 and you are going to have issues mounting but it does fit.


----------



## Gualichu04

One gpu under water till the other is back from rma. No green coolant till its back.


----------



## lowfat

I wonder how durable that new HWLab paint is. It looks like it would be really tough compared to standard paint.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wonder how durable that new HWLab paint is. It looks like it would be really tough compared to standard paint.


It's terrible, but it seems to be really durable. I hate the texture and look of it. It's powder coat I'm pretty sure. I'm going to get mine powder coated satin black when I have the money, should look MUCH better.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Love this!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grecko*
> 
> Woww it's look so nice !!!


thank mate..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wonder how durable that new HWLab paint is. It looks like it would be really tough compared to standard paint.
> 
> 
> 
> It's terrible, but it seems to be really durable. I hate the texture and look of it. It's powder coat I'm pretty sure. I'm going to get mine powder coated satin black when I have the money, should look MUCH better.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Should of just bought the euro version...we get the normal satin finish.
Which is a ballache,I want the dark matter finish for my new build and can't get it in the UK.


----------



## Jeronbernal

euro nemesis is muuuuch more shmexy









wish i lived in the UK for a few things... Parvum, Euro Nemesis' and quicker components. OH and the super legit warranty situation over there that B Neg spoke of a while back


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wonder how durable that new HWLab paint is. It looks like it would be really tough compared to standard paint.
> 
> 
> 
> It's terrible, but it seems to be really durable. I hate the texture and look of it. It's powder coat I'm pretty sure. I'm going to get mine powder coated satin black when I have the money, should look MUCH better.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Should of just bought the euro version...we get the normal satin finish.
> Which is a ballache,I want the dark matter finish for my new build and can't get it in the UK.
Click to expand...

Sayyyyy whaaaaaaa?? Noted for next purchase...


----------



## The Muffin Man

Just a question regarding filling my proposed loop layout.
So i've taken a Fractal Design Core 1300 - modified it a bit to take an EX360 in the top and a RX240 in the front; and the only way I can fit my reservoir in is if I mount it horizontally as shown. Could I fill it from the plug circled?
Or will I need to incorporate a fill/drain port? (apologies that the EX360 isnt in the photo, this was just a quick test/fitting snap.)


Proposed Loop


Here is my basic build log to anyone interested








http://www.overclock.net/t/1501431/build-log-fractal-design-core-1300-watercooled/0_20#post_22616256


----------



## mrinfinit3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> Just a question regarding filling my proposed loop layout.
> So i've taken a Fractal Design Core 1300 - modified it a bit to take an EX360 in the top and a RX240 in the front; and the only way I can fit my reservoir in is if I mount it horizontally as shown. Could I fill it from the plug circled?
> Or will I need to incorporate a fill/drain port? (apologies that the EX360 isnt in the photo, this was just a quick test/fitting snap.)
> 
> 
> Proposed Loop
> 
> 
> Here is my basic build log to anyone interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501431/build-log-fractal-design-core-1300-watercooled/0_20#post_22616256





Yes you should be able to use that as your fill point without issue. Only thing is with that little amount of coolant (shallow); you will have to power up the system as you fill it. So you may wish to fill it prior to installing your CPU (leave the block loose). Or you can power up the system without connecting to the power supply. This is just a pre-caution to safeguard your components during the initial fill/boot process.


----------



## The Muffin Man

Yea I wont have the components powered for obvious safety reasons and do a solid 12h+ of leak testing.
If for some reason I cant get it to work I can always modify the case a little more for the fillport. Now for some fun with acrylic bending!!


----------



## VSG

Different finishes for different regions is a bit of a downer. What are you doing, HardwareLabs?


----------



## Jakewat

Slightly off topic, but this sort of thing has come up before here so I just wanted to share this. NZXT have updated their grid fan splitter so that it now has proper fan control abilities and software to control it. It's not 100% polished yet, but it is a nice little internal fan controller and could prove useful for rad fans. I will be waiting for someone here to try one out.
http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/148-GRID-digital-fan-controller.html


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> Just a question regarding filling my proposed loop layout.
> So i've taken a Fractal Design Core 1300 - modified it a bit to take an EX360 in the top and a RX240 in the front; and the only way I can fit my reservoir in is if I mount it horizontally as shown. Could I fill it from the plug circled?
> Or will I need to incorporate a fill/drain port? (apologies that the EX360 isnt in the photo, this was just a quick test/fitting snap.)
> 
> 
> Proposed Loop
> 
> 
> Here is my basic build log to anyone interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501431/build-log-fractal-design-core-1300-watercooled/0_20#post_22616256


Using two rads, I would have it... res > pump > CPU > top rad > GPU > front rad > res That way each device getting cooled, can have its hot water pass thru a rad before it gets to the second device. OR, something like that, maybe a different order for cosmetics...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Different finishes for different regions is a bit of a downer. What are you doing, HardwareLabs?


The EU has some draconian rulings on paint finishes,not really HWL's fault...other than not just going satin for everything.
I will have to badger Specialtech to get me some in from outside the EU.


----------



## VSG

Well if that's the case, then I can understand. I assume the paint finish rule doesn't apply to imports then?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> euro nemesis is muuuuch more shmexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wish i lived in the UK for a few things... Parvum, Euro Nemesis' and quicker components. OH and the super legit warranty situation over there that B Neg spoke of a while back


What the eff. That is totally uncool of HWLabs.

EDIT: I see the reasons now. Still prefer the matte finish.


----------



## The Muffin Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Using two rads, I would have it... res > pump > CPU > top rad > GPU > front rad > res That way each device getting cooled, can have its hot water pass thru a rad before it gets to the second device. OR, something like that, maybe a different order for cosmetics...


Yea its really difficult when taking into account cosmetics :/


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What the eff. That is totally uncool of HWLabs.
> 
> EDIT: I see the reasons now. Still prefer the matte finish.


I like the new wrinkle style finish, but if I already had other rads with a smooth finish, be it matte or gloss, I would prefer the matte finish as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well if that's the case, then I can understand. I assume the paint finish rule doesn't apply to imports then?


Who knows....
I won't be saying anything....

To clarify,I'm speculating on the paint finish,the rads is rohs compliant so its nothing to do with manufacture. I can't think of anything else it could be.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, then I have wasted 75 bucks .... great!


If you live in the States I would buy some of your extra .5 Fuji pads&#8230;or, if unopened, they might take them back for store credit. I did this with a braided extension cable once
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can hook up two 0.5mm pads to make 1 1mm pad and use it with the VRMs.


I thought about this too but wondered about the chances of air bubble(s) getting caught between them?

BTW my "orderable" EK 290 block form FCPU ended up shipping only a few days later.


----------



## Zins184

2 years ago.. I had the cpu power cable ran behind the motherboard tray when I bought a extension for it. Also my first water cooling setup!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I thought about this too but wondered about the chances of air bubble(s) getting caught between them?


It is pretty mushy, I wouldn't worry about air/dust getting caught. Heat will take the path of least resistance anyway and will bypass any contaminants.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok Folks

we now have another pump option for our loops: MCP50X Swiftech. Would be interesting to see testing results in regard to P-q and noise. Some numbers are already on manufacturer page:

http://www.swiftech.com/MCP50X.aspx#tab2


----------



## Jeronbernal

is the mcp50x a thicker version of the DDC? would we be able to use DDC tops? or DDC heatsinks or nah?


----------



## MiiX

To watercool or not to watercool, thats not the question. The real question is: What rad to choose....

Alphacool XT45 360 in push/pull with AP-15's will be able to cool a GTX780 and a 4770k nice and fairly quiet?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> is the mcp50x a thicker version of the DDC? would we be able to use DDC tops? or DDC heatsinks or nah?


I've asked and Bram said no, but I take it with a pinch of salt considering Swiftech's usual stance on aftermarket tops.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would have gone with the middle of the road option, also FCPU seems to tax hard on Fujipoly. You can get entire sheets of it from PerformancePCs for like $35-$40. It of course is ONLY 11w, but I really don't think it matters. Specially if you aren't going to be pushing your cards to the utter limits with high end voltage mods & what not.


PPCs has sheets of 6.0 watt/mk Fujipoly Premium 0.5 - 1.5mm for $40 a full sheet, but full sheets of 11.0 watt/mk Fujipoly Extreme in comparable sizes cost more. Currently the 0.5mm is $53, the 1.0mm is $80, and the 1.5mm is over $100. You're still right that it is generally cheaper than FCPS though it varies by how much. FCPU wants $86 for a full sheet of the 0.5mm, $90 for the 1.0mm, and yet they both want the same $104 for the 1.5mm. On the smaller quarter / half sheets PPCs tends to be a few dollars cheaper. At least to where I live though PPCs charges several dollars more for the comparable shipping, so in my case it all sort of evens out a bit.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I've asked and Bram said no, but I take it with a pinch of salt considering Swiftech's usual stance on aftermarket tops.


It looks a little bit taller. In fact dimensions seems to confirm this, same width and length but different height by 4 mm.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> is the mcp50x a thicker version of the DDC? would we be able to use DDC tops? or DDC heatsinks or nah?


This is an in-house pump and not a Laing product. The dimensions are different, so a DDC top isn't going to be compatible.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> is the mcp50x a thicker version of the DDC? would we be able to use DDC tops? or DDC heatsinks or nah?
> 
> 
> 
> This is an in-house pump and not a Laing product. The dimensions are different, so a DDC top isn't going to be compatible.
Click to expand...

When are these 'wunderpumpen' out for consumption?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When are these 'wunderpumpen' out for consumption?


They're available on our website right now. We are taking overseas orders, but our European distributor will have them in a week or so.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> If you live in the States I would buy some of your extra .5 Fuji pads&#8230;or, if unopened, they might take them back for store credit. I did this with a braided extension cable once
> I thought about this too but wondered about the chances of air bubble(s) getting caught between them?


I live in Norway and I guess I use them when I first have them, return will not be any good because of very expensive shipping ...

On the other hand, I got the Monoblock onto my RIVBE yesterday and I got to say, poorly done by EK, it was missing 4x M4 PVC washers together with too long screws where the mosfet are .... my first bad experience with EK. Ended up with black washers on the mosfet-screws and drilling up some leftover PVC washers I had lying around from a previous build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When are these 'wunderpumpen' out for consumption?
> 
> 
> 
> They're available on our website right now. We are taking overseas orders, but our European distributor will have them in a week or so.
Click to expand...

Looking at the graphs....I will pass on this,3LPM loss for a tiny hike in pressure is not a sacrifice im willing to make. Looks tidy enough tho.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looking at the graphs....I will pass on this,3LPM loss for a tiny hike in pressure is not a sacrifice im willing to make. Looks tidy enough tho.


I think it might be good for short loops - cpu+gpu+rad. The price is more attractive that a MCP35X.


----------



## jpetrach

So I pulled this out of an old furnace and I couldn't help but pause for a second.....


----------



## skupples

dat "bacteria" (mold)

would be epic to setup a rad box with soemthing like that.

I may sell the STH-10 one of these days, then do a mini-build, with a rad box.


----------



## Bagmup

Hey B Neg, can i join

Put in spoiler tags because big photos.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Some radiators and fans for testing arrived:
> 
> 
> The coating on the new Black Ice radiators doesn't look so great up close, but I quite like it from afar.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AeroCool Dead Silence with its odd golf balls.


Some pretty gnarly gear you got there, looks cool..


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I think it might be good for short loops - cpu+gpu+rad. The price is more attractive that a MCP35X.


I want to see if the increased head pressure helps with the restrictions from the Mo.Ra and QDCs. A single mcp35x was fodder for that loop and an Mcp35x2 was the minimum I would go with. I want to see how 1-2 D5s would work out too.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I want to see if the increased head pressure helps with the restrictions from the Mo.Ra and QDCs. A single mcp35x was fodder for that loop and an Mcp35x2 was the minimum I would go with. I want to see how 1-2 D5s would work out too.


I am doing: 1x MO-RA3 420, 2x 480 Monsta, 2x XTX240, 4x GPU, 2x RAM, 3930K, RIVBE Monoblock on just 2x Swiftech MCP655's. My GPU's are R9 290X's.

I also use QDC's.


----------



## VSG

6 QDCs are pretty restrictive in their own right. Normal U flow rads are no more restrictive than tubing to be honest, so I am not worried about those. How are your flow rates if you know? I would love to know.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 6 QDCs are pretty restrictive in their own right. Normal U flow rads are no more restrictive than tubing to be honest, so I am not worried about those. How are your flow rates if you know? I would love to know.


I am in the middle of building it, have not tried out any of it yet, will probably know in the end of this weekend.

I only do 2x QDC's from my externally radiators.


----------



## sdmf74

Swiftech has something in store for the new pump but they wont say what it is or how long till it's available, just that it's not an X2 housing.
As far as the EK DDC heat sink it appears it could work if you had longer screws but I cant say for sure.


----------



## Gabrielzm

If I did nothing wrong (a real possibility) this is what would look like a graph of psi x flow (GPM) of the d5 x mcp50x. Data come from mcp50x graph on swiftech page and d5 from @fast_fate d5 tests


----------



## stickg1

Anyone care to talk to me like a child and explain exactly what that graph even means? Because I don't understand how PSI comes in to play and how does it reduce as the pump speeds up? Once again I'm not an engineer, so it could be very fundamental for some people, but I just don't get it.


----------



## VSG

Jab Tech is closing down









Whatever inventory left is on an even bigger sale now. Thinking of picking up some 140mm Yates for the heck of it.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If I did nothing wrong (a real possibility) this is what would look like a graph of psi x flow (GPM) of the d5 x mcp50x. Data come from mcp50x graph on swiftech page and d5 from @fast_fate d5 tests


Nice work on the interpretation - haven't checked the Swiftech conversion, but








EDIT - which of the D5 pump charts did you use.

The guys will notice I leave my charts "warts and all" and not smooth over the curve created by the data collection points








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone care to talk to me like a child and explain exactly what that graph even means? Because I don't understand how PSI comes in to play and how does it reduce as the pump speeds up? Once again I'm not an engineer, so it could be very fundamental for some people, but I just don't get it.


When looking at the chart go to the highest flow point first - on the chart above it's about 3.5 gpm.
That is with "Virtually" no restriction on the pump as some is introduced with the test equipment.
Moving along, at 3.5 gpm their is no restriction - yeah ??
as the flow rate is reduced, with a tap in testing - think restriction in system loop which is added by cpu blocks, gpu blocks, rads, fittings ect....
the flow rate decreases, and more pressure is built at the pump - yeah ??
There is an balanced "force" consisting of 2 components - flow and pressure.
And they are tied to each other, as one goes up, the other must come down to keep the "force" balanced.

EDIT: as Jak points out in a couple of posts - the pump stays at same power setting, pwm or voltage (whichever your flavour)

So using a pump restriction Vs pressure curve chart AND combined with all the restriction charts of your loop's components you can determine what the loop's flow rate will be before assembly - or part purchase.

If you want a flow rate of 1.25 gpm in your system you would look for the pump and pump top combination Pressure Vs flow chart and note the pressure at 1.25 gpm.
Then try to find all you components restriction charts.
add up all the pressure readings for all the components at 1.25 gpm and hopefully that number will be around 4.5 psi in the example chart above.

I think that's a simple way of reading them.
and why I started the OCN Community Water Cooling Test Thread
To build our own data base.
The more testers we can get on board, the more data we'll have to compare


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Whatever inventory left is on an even bigger sale now. Thinking of picking up some 140mm Yates for the heck of it.


They are good fans IMO.


----------



## Dortheleus

Anyone can tell me who the EK rep is again, I got myself a problem.

Getting ready to install my ek 670 wc on my Zotac 760 and I realize this:


It doesn't match.







I need help.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They are good fans IMO.


Ya, I got 12 of their 140x38mm fans at $1.40 each. Pretty good deal even if they turn out to be mediocre.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Anyone can tell me who the EK rep is again, I got myself a problem.
> 
> Getting ready to install my ek 670 wc on my Zotac 760 and I realize this:
> 
> 
> It doesn't match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need help.


@Derickwm


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, I got 12 of their 140x38mm fans at $1.40 each. Pretty good deal even if they turn out to be mediocre.
> @Derickwm


Thanks, I just PMed him.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Anyone can tell me who the EK rep is again, I got myself a problem.
> 
> Getting ready to install my ek 670 wc on my Zotac 760 and I realize this:
> 
> 
> It doesn't match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need help.


That looks to be an EK-FC670 GTX DCII for Asus DCII cards only
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc670-gtx-dcii-acetal-nickel.html

Your card uses this one
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc670-gtx-acetal-nickel.html

Way, way too much paste on that GPU die too.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone care to talk to me like a child and explain exactly what that graph even means? Because I don't understand how PSI comes in to play and how does it reduce as the pump speeds up? Once again I'm not an engineer, so it could be very fundamental for some people, but I just don't get it.


The pump is not changing speed. The entire graph is at full power. Only the flow rate is changing.


----------



## stickg1

Knowing that, it makes more sense.


----------



## skupples

woooh... that is like 10 GPUs worth of paste...


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That looks to be an EK-FC670 GTX DCII for Asus DCII cards only
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc670-gtx-dcii-acetal-nickel.html
> 
> Your card uses this one
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc670-gtx-acetal-nickel.html
> 
> Way, way too much paste on that GPU die too.










Man! You're right, I got the wrong one, just checked my order. I hope I can still get help from EK.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> woooh... that is like 10 GPUs worth of paste...


More paste = more thermal transfer!!

No but seriously, Dorth, I think you went a little heavy on the sauce there. And I'm sorry the block doesn't work, I know how much of a bummer that can be. Hopefully you can get it sorted as an honest mistake with the retailer. Just smile and bat the eyelashes!


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> More paste = more thermal transfer!!
> 
> No but seriously, Dorth, I think you went a little heavy on the sauce there. And I'm sorry the block doesn't work, I know how much of a bummer that can be. Hopefully you can get it sorted as an honest mistake with the retailer. Just smile and bat the eyelashes!


It's such a rookie mistake. I'm more mad at myself more than anything.

I don't know if the reseller, NCIX, can help me. But I'm hoping EK can.


----------



## stickg1

Does NCIX have the regular 670 block?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Does NCIX have the regular 670 block?


It appears not.









http://search.ncix.com/search/?qcatid=0&q=EK+GTX+670

Not sure EK's liable to do anything about it. Perhaps, but you should always try with the retailer you bought it from first. Hopefully at the very least NCIX will let you return it, perhaps with just a restocking fee or whatnot. Worst case sell it in the marketplace or ebay and then order the right one.


----------



## stickg1

Well that's just a 5 gallon bucket of weaksauce then. I would try to return it, just be honest and hopefully they take it back. Otherwise resell and get the right piece. Or sell your 670 and pick up a DCII model, whichever is least expensive. I would troll the classifieds because I see random stuff that I need pop up all the time, maybe you will get lucky too.


----------



## Dortheleus

Thanks gang, I'll contact NCIX in the morning and see what they are willing to do for me.


----------



## skupples

good luck, goin' need it.


----------



## Dizzmal

Been a long time lurker, but I guess it is time to join the club:

Stats:
CPU: I7-3770K @ 4.8Ghz
Mobo: Asus Maximus V Extreme
GPUs: EVGA 780 Classified (3Gb) SLI
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaw x 16Gb @ 2133Mhz
SSD: Samsung 840 Evo 256Gb x 2 in Raid 0
HDD: WD 7200rpm 500Gb
PSU: EVGA Super Nova 1000w P2 with Sleeved cables
Blu-ray: LG
Cooling:
EK Supremacy-Acrylic
EK- 780 Classified- Acrylic x 2
EK- 360XTX
EK- 240XTX
EK- DDC X-Top w/ 3.25 DDC Pump
Bitspower 150mm Cylinder Reservoir





Still work to do. I want to go to solid tubing next.


----------



## derickwm

Solid tubing is for chumps.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Solid tubing is for chumps.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Solid tubing is for chumps.


I always thought that both flexible and acrylic tubing were solid to begin with...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Solid tubing is for chumps.


I know what's happened here...Derick has a big pile of molten acrylic.


----------



## gdubc




----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I always thought that both flexible and acrylic tubing were solid to begin with...


No no, I prefer my tubing in a liquid or gas form.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Solid tubing is for chumps.


Gas tubing is for chumps!


----------



## derickwm




----------



## DoktorTerror

my project MAMBA540 is complete













more photos are in the build log
http://www.overclock.net/t/1465810/sponsored-mamba-540/100_20#post_22607184


----------



## Dortheleus

Well NCIX is closed on the weekends.







Can't get any help from them today. Anyone what to trade a EK 670 DCII full body WC for a EK 670 generic WC?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Well NCIX is closed on the weekends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't get any help from them today. Anyone what to trade a EK 670 DCII full body WC for a EK 670 generic WC?


#HaveFaith









and for the Thermal Paste thing. the more paste doesn't mean more heat transfer. how it works it fill the tiny gaps between the GPU/Heatsink suface so they have near perfect contact for near perfect thermal transfer. "There is nothing Perfect in Science" the more paste you add the thicker the layer and the harder for the heat to be transferred easier. TIM is on of those things that Less is More


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Anyone can tell me who the EK rep is again, I got myself a problem.
> 
> Getting ready to install my ek 670 wc on my Zotac 760 and I realize this:
> 
> 
> It doesn't match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need help.


As stated already, that's too much tim on the die. Use about the amount that's on one of the corners or less.


----------



## CasP3r

Some pics of my work in progress.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know what's happened here...Derick has a big pile of molten acrylic.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> Some pics of my work in progress.


Looking great!

The fittings coming out of the rad to the drain valve look wonky there. Cross threaded.. or is it just the radiator?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd say that's crossthreaded


----------



## lowfat

It just looks like the port on the radiator to me.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Looking great!
> 
> The fittings coming out of the rad to the drain valve look wonky there. Cross threaded.. or is it just the radiator?


definitely going to go with the port on the radiator not being perfectly straight. Iv'e seen it on many of my radiators. I normally just put a 30mm extension on it & treat it like a torque wrench.

Very good looking build! I would personally bend it back into shape so that bend doesn't look all wonky.


----------



## fast_fate

It does look the the rad port.
Going to make the acrylic tube look a bit odd.

The build is looking great though


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> my project MAMBA540 is complete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more photos are in the build log
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1465810/sponsored-mamba-540/100_20#post_22607184


----------



## CasP3r

Yeah, that's the way the port looked like when I got it so I doubt it's cross-threaded. I thought about bending it to get it a little straighter, but I was worried of breaking the radiator, so... I'm not sure if I want to force it. I now have a piece of tubing going up from there and it doesn't really look that odd to me. I mean yes, you can see that the fittings coming out of the rad aren't completely horizontal, but somehow the tube going up doesn't appear to be slanted at all. I'll cut the tubes to go between the pump and the rad and see what it looks like, maybe it will help to keep it a little bit more square.

Oh, and thank you everyone.


----------



## skupples

eh, not a big deal. It is down in the basement, thus out of sight from prying OCD eyes. Looks great! I really want to stuff another Caselabs full of gear, but I have priorities right now! Said priorities is to setup a home-server with all of my scraps. Z77 mobo, raid card, stack of HDDs, boom! Server! I just need to get rid of the 3570k, pickup a super stable 1155 Xeon (the 3570k is a bit burned, requires 1.2V for stock clocks)


----------



## CasP3r

Yeah, I guess so. I already got the tubing in there no problem so it probably doesn't matter all that much. It doesn't even look that crooked anymore when it's got some tubing supporting it.









Water cooled server in another Caselabs, boom done!


----------



## Dortheleus

The tim doesn't really matter at the moment. The problem is that the water cooler is wrong. I need to trade it as soon as possible.


----------



## Kimir

Seen some beautiful picture and build right there, but please spoiler for multiple images, even at 4k it makes a wall of images!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Seen some beautiful picture and build right there, but please spoiler for multiple images, even at 4k it makes a wall of images!


This thread is a picture gallery, I would much rather have them post the original images directly with the quoted ones in spoiler.


----------



## Ironsmack

In Canada anyways, they don't accept returns on WC blocks. Unless it's defective, they do RMA.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This thread is a picture gallery, I would much rather have them post the original images directly with the quoted ones in spoiler.


Just saying , but sure as long as the quoted post are under spoiler I don't mind personally.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

My little work in progress, just waiting for the "second PSU-connector cable" so that I can get both PSU's hooked up to my "Black Hawk".



Build log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1497741/project-black-hawk-i7-3930k-4x-r9-290x-water-cooling-4k-gaming-build-log


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone know if it is any point on having the inlet at the right G 1/4" thread on the Monoblock? The routing of my loop would have been so much easier if I could have used that hole as an outlet instead of an inlet.


----------



## Fear of Oneself

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Anyone can tell me who the EK rep is again, I got myself a problem.
> 
> Getting ready to install my ek 670 wc on my Zotac 760 and I realize this:
> 
> 
> It doesn't match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need help.


----------



## sprower

A couple of gallons later....



My black ice gtx didn't have a fraction of the crap in it this nemesis has... So much green junk you'd think this radiator was smuggling pot at some point in its college days...


----------



## skupples

One of the best Tek videos evar.


----------



## QAKE

Good evening to everyone

Just wanted your help for the color choice of my next 2 mods

There is a poll HERE

Thanks a lot!


----------



## The Storm

Finally got my Tri Fire set up. The top 2 cards are 290's that unlocked to 290X's and the bottom card did not unlock. I went ahead and applied new thermal pads to the original cards and new TIM so that all three would be fresh, temps only rose 6c after long BF4 session.


----------



## Fear of Oneself

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Finally got my Tri Fire set up. The top 2 cards are 290's that unlocked to 290X's and the bottom card did not unlock. I went ahead and applied new thermal pads to the original cards and new TIM so that all three would be fresh, temps only rose 6c after long BF4 session.


That piece that you have that links all the blocks together, I thought that was only necessary for universal blocks such as my own. Do the full cover ones that you're using have inlet/outlet ports that point toward the side panel?

I'm asking because I'm debating on grabbing a second 280X or a 7970 down the line. For the MCW60, (and MCW82 that I would have to buy) joining the two cards would require this. http://www.swiftech.com/slicrossfirebridge.aspx Whereas I thought that full card blocks could be joined with short pipes like this


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself*
> 
> That piece that you have that links all the blocks together, I thought that was only necessary for universal blocks such as my own. Do the full cover ones that you're using have inlet/outlet ports that point toward the side panel?
> 
> I'm asking because I'm debating on grabbing a second 280X or a 7970 down the line. For the MCW60, (and MCW82 that I would have to buy) joining the two cards would require this. http://www.swiftech.com/slicrossfirebridge.aspx Whereas I thought that full card blocks could be joined with short pipes like this


My cards can be linked like the picture that you have shown as well. With EK the ends of the blocks that have the inlet and outlet ports that point up and down can be removed to join them all together such as I have.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> My cards can be linked like the picture that you have shown as well. With EK the ends of the blocks that have the inlet and outlet ports that point up and down can be removed to join them all together such as I have.


this. in my old build i had a EK terminal block like that but when i got a new mobo the pci slot spacing was different so i connected them with sli links instead


----------



## failwheeldrive

Got my PC-V4 up and running today. Still need to finish cable management and add a few parts (it's getting a 2nd 290x and a couple more Nemesis rads) but I'm just happy to have a liquid cooled build again... been running air the last few months while I worked on my other build, and it really sucked lol.


More pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1879_zpsbfd3226f.jpg.html

http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1883_zps5f46323f.jpg.html

http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1861_zps22f93c23.jpg.html

http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1856_zps9e049656.jpg.html

http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1854_zps0e4c2a4d.jpg.html


----------



## fakeblood

Yeah that's mean failwheeldrive! Really like the flow of the tubing. Doesn't look much like rigid tubing at all


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Yeah that's mean failwheeldrive! Really like the flow of the tubing. Doesn't look much like rigid tubing at all


Appreciate it fakeblood. This was my first time bending it, I've always used rotaries for bends in the past but wanted to switch it up this time. TBH your builds were one of the inspirations for the switch... always really liked your tubing runs.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Appreciate it fakeblood. This was my first time bending it, I've always used rotaries for bends in the past but wanted to switch it up this time. TBH your builds were one of the inspirations for the switch... always really liked your tubing runs.


Oh cheers mate. I much prefer bends over tons of fittings, so again great work.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Has anyone ever heard of someone else fitting a 3x 140mm (420mm) rad in the top of a Bitfenix Shinobi XL ?


----------



## kingchris

one fits in the front of a ghost, but sounds like one in the roof of an XL might be more fun!! interested to see if it does.


----------



## jpetrach

So I posted this picture after I pulled this condenser coil out. its been in the shop and I keep looking at it like "it cant be that hard to clean all the Freon oil out, can it?" and today I think m going to try. I mean why not right?. who doesn't need a 45LB radiator for there computer?! its already sealed, I'm thinking invert the unit and place a few fans in the opening that is now on top and give it a go.
Unit measures 17" deep and 22" tall and with 2 Radiators. pipe looks like 1/2 OD so ~ 7/16-3/8 ID. it would be a little work to clean inside and out and cut and braze the right fittings...... but it could be fun!


----------



## skupples

Do eeeeeeet


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Got my PC-V4 up and running today. Still need to finish cable management and add a few parts (it's getting a 2nd 290x and a couple more Nemesis rads) but I'm just happy to have a liquid cooled build again... been running air the last few months while I worked on my other build, and it really sucked lol.
> 
> 
> More pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1879_zpsbfd3226f.jpg.html
> 
> http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1883_zps5f46323f.jpg.html
> 
> http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1861_zps22f93c23.jpg.html
> 
> http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1856_zps9e049656.jpg.html
> 
> http://s66.photobucket.com/user/dcstructure/media/IMG_1854_zps0e4c2a4d.jpg.html










Good work neat and simple color combinations


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> So I posted this picture after I pulled this condenser coil out. its been in the shop and I keep looking at it like "it cant be that hard to clean all the Freon oil out, can it?" and today I think m going to try. I mean why not right?. who doesn't need a 45LB radiator for there computer?! its already sealed, I'm thinking invert the unit and place a few fans in the opening that is now on top and give it a go.
> Unit measures 17" deep and 22" tall and with 2 Radiators. pipe looks like 1/2 OD so ~ 7/16-3/8 ID. it would be a little work to clean inside and out and cut and braze the right fittings...... but it could be fun!


Yes please.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> So I posted this picture after I pulled this condenser coil out. its been in the shop and I keep looking at it like "it cant be that hard to clean all the Freon oil out, can it?" and today I think m going to try. I mean why not right?. who doesn't need a 45LB radiator for there computer?! its already sealed, I'm thinking invert the unit and place a few fans in the opening that is now on top and give it a go.
> Unit measures 17" deep and 22" tall and with 2 Radiators. pipe looks like 1/2 OD so ~ 7/16-3/8 ID. it would be a little work to clean inside and out and cut and braze the right fittings...... but it could be fun!


Check out this thread HERE

it can help you clean this monster!!!

Are you going to build a new PC around this rad? If yes, make a Build Log please









Also this rad screams to be custom painted!!!

EDIT:
Man, this rad is just giving me plenty of ideas for modding! For example use this rad as a pedestal, and build your rig on it, vertically. Paint it in black an then paint a logo or something else in another color


----------



## jpetrach

I know I want to finish work so I can go home and start cleaning it. as long as I can feel comfortable its thoroughly clean I will start a build log. thinking ill call it "The Anchor"

Edit: thinking about it I should use the central air unit that goes outside we replaced the whole system. it already has a fan on it...... HONEY WHAT ARE YOU DOING IN THERE?! (Tremendously large fan drowns her out) WHAT I CANT HEAR YOU!!! IM TALKING TO BUDDIES ON THE INTERNET.. WHAT?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> I know I want to finish work so I can go home and start cleaning it. as long as I can feel comfortable its thoroughly clean I will start a build log. thinking ill call it "The Anchor"
> 
> Edit: thinking about it I should use the central air unit that goes outside we replaced the whole system. it already has a fan on it...... HONEY WHAT ARE YOU DOING IN THERE?! (Tremendously large fan drowns her out) WHAT I CANT HEAR YOU!!! IM TALKING TO BUDDIES ON THE INTERNET.. WHAT?


lol









I want it!









good luck cleaning it


----------



## jpetrach

here is a rough sketch of what I was talk about.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Here are some pictures of the aftermath. Obviously I didn't leave coolant everywhere and so I have no pictures of that. And now it looks like crap because I had to pull all the wires out because they got wet and the floor panels and everything are all removed. I tore it apart as fast as I could to catch all the liquid. My garbage is full of paper towels.
> 
> This is where I am at right now. I am going to start tearing it down now and start all over again.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did Strong Island ever find out what caused this volcano to erupt in his PC?


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> here is a rough sketch of what I was talk about.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Did Strong Island ever find out what caused this volcano to erupt in his PC?


nope, but I can tell you that I found blood splatters all inside the case, even after his cleanup.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> So I posted this picture after I pulled this condenser coil out. its been in the shop and I keep looking at it like "it cant be that hard to clean all the Freon oil out, can it?" and today I think m going to try. I mean why not right?. who doesn't need a 45LB radiator for there computer?! its already sealed, I'm thinking invert the unit and place a few fans in the opening that is now on top and give it a go.
> Unit measures 17" deep and 22" tall and with 2 Radiators. pipe looks like 1/2 OD so ~ 7/16-3/8 ID. it would be a little work to clean inside and out and cut and braze the right fittings...... but it could be fun!


DOOOO EEEEEEET!

And start a log so I can lurk


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> here is a rough sketch of what I was talk about.


Rofl, now that be some mad cooling right there.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Rofl, now that be some mad cooling right there.


Like 50000 BTU of raw cooling power


----------



## Ithanul

This radiator been a bit of trouble for me for installing. Though, gave good excuse for my first modding go.



Now to get some washer for those small screw heads, or find me some other screws that work.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> This radiator been a bit of trouble for me for installing. Though, gave good excuse for my first modding go.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to get some washer for those small screw heads, or find me some other screws that work.


I found it was cheapest to go down to the locally owned hardware store & pick up a fist full of tiny, black, nylon washers, in comparison to buying specialty screws.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I found it was cheapest to go down to the locally owned hardware store & pick up a fist full of tiny, black, nylon washers, in comparison to buying specialty screws.


Yeah, I probably go down to the ace hardware store, and grab some of those.


----------



## skupples

Just remember that Home Depot & Lows rarely/never carry anything in these sizes.


----------



## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> here is a rough sketch of what I was talk about.










I'm dying over here!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just remember that Home Depot & Lows rarely/never carry anything in these sizes.


Every time I go to one of those stores I am more and more disappointed as they never have the things I need.....even in cases where they really should.

McMaster is quickly becoming more and more my one and only choice


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> This radiator been a bit of trouble for me for installing. Though, gave good excuse for my first modding go.
> 
> 
> 
> Now to get some washer for those small screw heads, or find me some other screws that work.






I spy... A Phobya rad?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just remember that Home Depot & Lows rarely/never carry anything in these sizes.


Found that out yesterday. I stopped at both. The longest M3 screws they had were 20mm. Amazon has black M3 0.5 30mm x 100 for $5 with Prime.

Edit: A pack of 100 washers (only in stainless) for M3 are only $1.80 with Prime.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Found that out yesterday. I stopped at both. The longest M3 screws they had were 20mm. Amazon has black M3 0.5 30mm x 100 for $5 with Prime.
> 
> Edit: A pack of 100 washers (only in stainless) for M3 are only $1.80 with Prime.


*BoltDepot.com* is a good place for cheap screws and washers. They have both 6-32 sizes and M3 and other metric sizes in lots of lengths. They also have them in hex head and Philips head. I bought a 100 pack of stainless steel 1 1/4" 6-32 socket cap screws for my radiators to give them a little color accent, instead of plain black.


----------



## Neb9

Still need to do the wc for the GPU.
Specs are in sig.


----------



## Shadowline2553

I am looking to purchase some corsair sleaved cables for my PSU and am not sure which colour to go with.

That's my build, minus my 2nd GPU with stock AX860i Cables. Should I go with Red or Black?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> I spy... A Phobya rad?


Yeah, its the 200mm one.

Anyway, Lowes amazingly had some nylon washers that actually work. Bad thing is....my sli link looks to be to long. Dang it. O well, at least once I am in Alabama I will be close to Performance PCs warehouse.


----------



## Jakewat

Got some EK HD fittings as they were on sale and I may or may not use them, but I have a few questions about them. Currently I am running primochill ghost fittings and there is no sanding on the edges required, but I know that you have to sand the edges/ tips of the tubing for it to be able to be pushed into the fitting. I sort of tried to push some E22 tube I had lying around which had a small amount of tapering at one end, I also applied some water to the o-rings before trying but wasn't able to get it in so that is why I am asking to what extent do they need to be tapered.
Also I unfortunately received one fitting that has partly damaged O-rings, and happens to be the only one with blue O-rings also, and would like to know what size O-rings these fittings take.
Pictures of the damage.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You just need a 45 chamfer on the leading edge.
The damage you have is caused by sharp leading edges on the tube.

You need a 1mm chamfer normally.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You just need a 45 chamfer on the leading edge.
> The damage you have is caused by sharp leading edges on the tube.
> 
> You need a 1mm chamfer normally.


What B said.

ALWAYS deburr and get those edges with a bit of relief to them. Easier to insert anyway...

Thanks - T


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Got some EK HD fittings as they were on sale and I may or may not use them, but I have a few questions about them. Currently I am running primochill ghost fittings and there is no sanding on the edges required, but I know that you have to sand the edges/ tips of the tubing for it to be able to be pushed into the fitting. I sort of tried to push some E22 tube I had lying around which had a small amount of tapering at one end, I also applied some water to the o-rings before trying but wasn't able to get it in so that is why I am asking to what extent do they need to be tapered.
> Also I unfortunately received one fitting that has partly damaged O-rings, and happens to be the only one with blue O-rings also, and would like to know what size O-rings these fittings take.
> Pictures of the damage.






You can get a reamer like THIS that'll do the trick, plus maybe a little bit of fine-ish sandpaper. I didn't really sand the ends of the tubes in my build, I only reamed them and then cleaned them really good. I had one leak, but that was due to a bad cut on my part so I don't think you should worry about sanding or polishing the tube ends a lot.

-Zepp


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Every time I go to one of those stores I am more and more disappointed as they never have the things I need.....even in cases where they really should.
> 
> McMaster is quickly becoming more and more my one and only choice


I guess I am lucky as I live in one of the Yacht centers of the world (Miami) which means a large need for metric sizing. When I say locally owned HW store I mean locally owned. NOT the locally owned franchise of ACE hardware, or any of those other imperial sizes powerhouses.

My favorite local HW store (McDonalds) Has a MASSIVE isle full of all things metric. It's where I ALWAYS get my rad screws, as they are like $.07 a piece. They may be bland, philips head, countersunk & chrome plated, but I really couldn't care less at that price. OH! and unlike your run of the mill Lowes, Home-Deport, & ACE, they actually carry the finest grits of sandpaper known to man.


----------



## Destrto

Also, that de-burring tool / reamer that Zepp linked can be found at any Harbor Freight Tools for about 3 bucks.


----------



## cyphon

Any of you guys been having issues with FCPU lately?

Over the past couple months, I have had multiple orders with incorrect items sent, orders missing items, and orders that have had to be modified after I paid because they had counted their stock wrong. It is getting quite annoying. I will say that at least they have made up for it on each occasion, but still, it is a hassle and one that I do not want to deal with on a regular basis. Looking back, I see it has been about a 50% chance on my last orders of there being some issue or not.

I usually order regularly from both PPCs and FCPU, but will probably be avoiding FCPU for the foreseeable future.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Any of you guys been having issues with FCPU lately?
> 
> ...
> 
> I usually order regularly from both PPCs and FCPU, but will probably be avoiding FCPU for the foreseeable future.


50 % chance for me too, but one of them was me not seeing the product pictures well enough, and since i only used fcpu 4 times, it goes down to 25 %

They handled their problem very bad (arguing with me over mail) but it ended with them sending me the original ordered parts while i got to choose if i wanted to send back the wrong package or not

That said, fcpu is much much better than the alternatives here in Norway, both in user experience and selection


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've ordered from FCPU a LOT. At least several dozen times now and I've never had an issue with any of them, at least not anything that was FCPU's fault. I did once have a waterblock that missing a part that was supposed to come in the box with it and a < 5 min call to FCPU had the missing item at my door 2 days later. That was honestly the best customer service experience I've ever had with a mistake on an order from anyone. I was thoroughly impressed.

Heck, I've had no less than six orders from them in just the past few weeks that I still haven't broke down the boxes from yet ...


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've ordered from FCPU a LOT. At least several dozen times now and I've never had an issue with any of them, at least not anything that was FCPU's fault. I did once have a waterblock that missing a part that was supposed to come in the box with it and a < 5 min call to FCPU had the missing item at my door 2 days later. That was honestly the best customer service experience I've ever had with a mistake on an order from anyone. I was thoroughly impressed.
> 
> Heck, I've had no less than six orders from them in just the past few weeks that I still haven't broke down the boxes from yet ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I second that. Every order I have made to them has been spot on. Fast delivery every time. I made a last minute exchange with them the day the order was supposed to go out and they took care of it and still got the order out that second. I needed to upgrade the shipping on another order and they did it in a heartbeat. Whether it be through exchanging emails or calling them, they have always given me the best customer service. After working in retail for 10 years (Best Buy), I can greatly appreciate their effort.

I can completely understand where you're coming from though, however I strongly recommend that you give them another chance. There aren't many retailers left like them.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Any of you guys been having issues with FCPU lately?
> 
> Over the past couple months, I have had multiple orders with incorrect items sent, orders missing items, and orders that have had to be modified after I paid because they had counted their stock wrong. It is getting quite annoying. I will say that at least they have made up for it on each occasion, but still, it is a hassle and one that I do not want to deal with on a regular basis. Looking back, I see it has been about a 50% chance on my last orders of there being some issue or not.
> 
> I usually order regularly from both PPCs and FCPU, but will probably be avoiding FCPU for the foreseeable future.


I've only ordered from FCPU twice and on the second time, which was a little over a month ago, I received the wrong item. I emailed them and they had me send the incorrect item back and then sent me the correct one. It took two weeks to get the correct item but I was gone so it took me a week to ship the item back.


----------



## skupples

I have dealt with both FCPU & PPC ALLOT. Both of them have amazing customer service. Though, I have seen that they will not play nice, if you do not play nice with them. I chose PPC over FCPU due to PPC being in-state, which means anything under 30LB is $9.99 next day delivery.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Any of you guys been having issues with FCPU lately?
> 
> Over the past couple months, I have had multiple orders with incorrect items sent, orders missing items, and orders that have had to be modified after I paid because they had counted their stock wrong. It is getting quite annoying. I will say that at least they have made up for it on each occasion, but still, it is a hassle and one that I do not want to deal with on a regular basis. Looking back, I see it has been about a 50% chance on my last orders of there being some issue or not.
> 
> I usually order regularly from both PPCs and FCPU, but will probably be avoiding FCPU for the foreseeable future.


Same exact experiences with them here, and my response was the same too. PPC's is cheaper anyway. Occasionally you will find a product at FCPU that PPC's doesnt have though.


----------



## skupples

i have noticed FCPU prices creeping up over the last year or so... Maybe their 10 year tax free deal with New York ended.


----------



## Dhalgren65

I had one hiccup out of 10 shipments-
PURPLE tube instead of ORANGE.
I let them know(email)
They asked who packed/who checked.
They offered to do a swap,I never bothered.
Sometimes,like the cars built on Mondays in 'Murica,
things happen.
I kinda felt bad naming names, but I also felt that , if a pro or semi-pro needed
orange for a customer pay thing,that would have been pretty crappy.
Considering I only wanted to re-do a loop,np.
BTW once I cut into the advance LRT(after 1 year w/Distilled XP+ UV)
NO issues-looks great.


----------



## utparatrooper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> The tim doesn't really matter at the moment. The problem is that the water cooler is wrong. I need to trade it as soon as possible.


Apologies, my previous post was in response to Dorth


----------



## lowfat

Hmm. Frosted or polished? Leaning towards polished. But of course I would need to redo the polishing as that isn't the best job.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hmm. Frosted or polished? Leaning towards polished. But of course I would need to redo the polishing as that isn't the best job.


Polished for SURE!

That picture makes me want to keep my Z9, but I'll never be able to afford chips for it


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Polished for SURE!
> 
> That picture makes me want to keep my Z9, but I'll never be able to afford chips for it


Have you looked for some cheap ES CPUs from eBay? I've seen 2.3GHz 8-cores going for $250 IIRC.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Polished for SURE!
> 
> That picture makes me want to keep my Z9, but I'll never be able to afford chips for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you looked for some cheap ES CPUs from eBay? I've seen 2.3GHz 8-cores going for $250 IIRC.
Click to expand...









I can afford that! Time to stalk eBay...


----------



## Gabrielzm

I order about 25 times from FZCPU last 2 years and they were deadly accurate on all orders. Best class customers service too with rma and personal requests (like shipping to a different address that your billing). I order from PPC too 4 times but they are not as nice as FZCPU as far customers service goes. One particular order they ask more US$ 20 bucks (one or 2 days after the order was placed) before shipping because they need to buy a special box for it







. When I question they say that shipping charges are only an estimate. Ok, cancel order....Personally I prefer to deal with FZCPU. BTW I also like Specialtech in UK but it takes longer to get down here.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hmm. Frosted or polished? Leaning towards polished. But of course I would need to redo the polishing as that isn't the best job.


Frosted imo. And then have frosted tubing in your build. Too many builds use polished blocks and completely clear tubing. Frosted tubing + the frosted CPU block would be out of the ordinary.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Frosted imo. And then have frosted tubing in your build. Too many builds use polished blocks and completely clear tubing. Frosted tubing + the frosted CPU block would be out of the ordinary.


The plan was actually to do frosted tubing if I went w/ the frosted block.









This is the coolant I will be using. Not sure I like how it looks w/ the frosted block.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The plan was actually to do frosted tubing if I went w/ the frosted block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the coolant I will be using. Not sure I like how it looks w/ the frosted block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are new/old EK CPU WB? They look very good.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hmm. Frosted or polished? Leaning towards polished. But of course I would need to redo the polishing as that isn't the best job.


polished! I seriously need a dual socket board... they look so epic.


----------



## aaroc

I need to connect to a WC loop two devices that on two continuous 5 1/4" bay (horizontal), one is a Monsoon 2 bay reservoir and an Aquaero 6. Im using flexible tubing (Primochill). Is there a U turn fitting/device available to this? They are too close to use only flexible tubing. Thanks!


----------



## skupples

old school ftw. Screws through the top are the dead give away.... unless EK has brought it back, i haven't been paying attention. I only really stalk new products when looking to upgrade.


----------



## Stateless

I have had some really bad issues with FCPU in the past, but recently it has been better. The biggest issue I had was when I ordered a modular PSU. I was called and told the one I wanted was no longer available and that they just got the new version, I was guaranteed that it was also modular and of course when it arrived it was not. When I requested to exchange, they refused because I opened the box and they claimed they could do nothing. I basically stopped dealing with them for about 9 months as did a few friends due to this. I recently gave them my business again and have done some small orders with them recently and have had no issues.

Prior the PSU issue, I had some screw up's with parts missing, which kind of sucked since I had planned to do my build when I was off of work and it delayed everything due to this. But I have to say, that Mark at FCPU, which is the owner has in the past been amazing with his service and the guys there. When the Titans first came out I got shut out via EVGA, but FCPU was able to secure me 2 of them and it was great.

I have had my ups and downs with them, at times they really double down on not doing returns like my issue with the PSU and other times they are just amazing. Overall, over the last few months things have been great and at this time, I have no issue recommending them.


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hmm. Frosted or polished? Leaning towards polished. But of course I would need to redo the polishing as that isn't the best job.


I vote polished. I just like shiny blocks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ever since Hank at PPC's tried to block my Monsoon sponsorship,they can totally burn.....
Luckily Geno is a great guy and saw thru him.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> I vote polished. I just like shiny blocks


Agreed, polished looks cleaner.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utparatrooper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if you have resolved your issue. I got a couple of EK GTX 670 reference blocks sitting around for cards that I don't have anymore. They have a good amount of tarnish on the copper under the CSQ. However, I continue to use one of the blocks and the tarnish was easily cleaned with lemon juice and a firm toothbrush along with some elbow grease, assuming you are comfortable taking the block apart and cleaning it. When you put it back together, make sure you leak test to ensure the rubber rings have firmly sealed the block (I learned that the hard way, but thankfully nothing died). I have only ever run distilled and Nuke PHN through the block.
> 
> 
> Let me know if you are interested, I can let it go cheap ($25 USD), since I have no use for them anymore as long as you pay shipping. I also have backplates for these.
> 
> MOD - apologies if this is not the correct format, but I am attempting to help a fellow OCN member out.


Thanks for the consideration, if you had replied earlier you'd would have saved me 60 $. @wrigleyvillain is all ready sending me the one he hadn't used.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 50 % chance for me too, but one of them was me not seeing the product pictures well enough, and since i only used fcpu 4 times, it goes down to 25 %
> 
> They handled their problem very bad (arguing with me over mail) but it ended with them sending me the original ordered parts while i got to choose if i wanted to send back the wrong package or not
> 
> That said, fcpu is much much better than the alternatives here in Norway, both in user experience and selection


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> I've only ordered from FCPU twice and on the second time, which was a little over a month ago, I received the wrong item. I emailed them and they had me send the incorrect item back and then sent me the correct one. It took two weeks to get the correct item but I was gone so it took me a week to ship the item back.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Same exact experiences with them here, and my response was the same too. PPC's is cheaper anyway. Occasionally you will find a product at FCPU that PPC's doesnt have though.


Seems like their process is slipping a bit then?? Like I said initially, i have used them pretty regularly and it really has been in my last 10 orders or so in the past 3-4 months. They have had the replacements out quickly and taken care of their mistake and have been pretty nice about it, but it is really getting frustrating. I'd also understand more if the mistakes were on big or complicated orders or similar items were mistaken, but that was not the case.

Example is what got delivered yesterday. Was supposed to be 2 fitting adapters and a new mouse pad. I instead got the mouse pad and 2 koolance mvr heat transfer plates......

It is dissappiointing because I do like their service. I get stuff in 2 days usually from them and their orders always get shipped the day the order is placed. Their shipping is also cheaper for me for some reason. Just tired of dealing with the hassle of getting orders fixed after receiving.


----------



## gdubc

I've used both but I think I prefer FrozenCPU. When I needed to return a couple ek 780hof blocks I had no problems whatsoever. They were unopened, I just had a change of plans and got 780ti classies instead of the galaxy cards, so the return was totally my issue. They even credited me full price with no "restocking fee". Also, that 10% off they give you after the first order really saved me many $$$!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Now back to actual WC please......no more 'we love/hate ppc/fcpu/your mum' or whatever


----------



## DarthBaggins

I second the Frosted look, just don't seem to see it as much within the past year or so, everyone's gone crazy with the polisher, lol


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Thanks for the consideration, if you had replied earlier you'd would have saved me 60 $. @wrigleyvillain is all ready sending me the one he hadn't used.


Well not quite that much with shipping to Canada (unless he lives there too)&#8230;and mine is damn near new; doesn't need to be cleaned. Not getting defensive just trying to help you feel better about the purchase.


----------



## Destrto

I have a question some of you guys may be able to help out with. I'm running an XSPC EX240 X flow radiator vertically in my 750D. The flow comes in at the top and out the bottom. The issue, albeit a minor one, is that I'm still hearing the gurgling of air trapped in the loop, and I believe it is coming from that rad.

Is there any way to try and get that last bit of air out of that radiator? I can't flip the case upside down because that would cause the pump to run dry.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a question some of you guys may be able to help out with. I'm running an XSPC EX240 X flow radiator vertically in my 750D. The flow comes in at the top and out the bottom. The issue, albeit a minor one, is that I'm still hearing the gurgling of air trapped in the loop, and I believe it is coming from that rad.
> 
> Is there any way to try and get that last bit of air out of that radiator? I can't flip the case upside down because that would cause the pump to run dry.


Picture would help visualize this








How about sideways? shaking? turn off and on? does the pump have speed control?

*Edit
Are you using soft tubes? any chance you can unscrew the radiator and tilt it outside the case?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a question some of you guys may be able to help out with. I'm running an XSPC EX240 X flow radiator vertically in my 750D. The flow comes in at the top and out the bottom. The issue, albeit a minor one, is that I'm still hearing the gurgling of air trapped in the loop, and I believe it is coming from that rad.
> 
> Is there any way to try and get that last bit of air out of that radiator? I can't flip the case upside down because that would cause the pump to run dry.


X flow rads the fluid travels in an S-shape. When mounted vertically, this will put one of the end tanks where there is no port up top where air can get trapped and fluid will bubble past it. You don't need to flip the rad upside down (180 degrees), but rather tilt it as close as possible to horizontal (90 degrees) while the pump is going to hopefully get that air bubble to budge. Perhaps that's possible to do how your pump is mounted? Or perhaps it's possible to unmount the pump temporarily to keep it getting fed fluid while you tilt the case?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Picture would help visualize this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about sideways? shaking? turn off and on? does the pump have speed control?
> 
> *Edit
> Are you using soft tubes? any chance you can unscrew the radiator and tilt it outside the case?


I'll try to upload a picture to this post in a bit.

Picture it standing up on its end, inlet on top, outlet on the bottom, vertical.

I cant really tilt it or turn it any way without the pump going dry from lack of water. Any way i try to tilt it, it goes dry. The pump is part of EK's pump res combo, so they are attached to each other directly. I tried cycling the pump off and on, but it hasn't seemed to help any. And the pump does not have speed control.

Everything in the loop is acrylic also, so I can't take anything out.

@Unicr0nhunter That looks to be exactly what the issue is. I'll try tilting it sideways enough to get that air bubble to move.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I'll try to upload a picture to this post in a bit.
> 
> Picture it standing up on its end, inlet on top, outlet on the bottom, vertical.
> 
> I cant really tilt it or turn it any way without the pump going dry from lack of water. Any way i try to tilt it, it goes dry. The pump is part of EK's pump res combo, so they are attached to each other directly. I tried cycling the pump off and on, but it hasn't seemed to help any. And the pump does not have speed control.
> 
> Everything in the loop is acrylic also, so I can't take anything out.


I guess that's an EK dcp 2.2 pump-res. Not enough pressure to push the trapped air out.

I used to set that issue using XSPC's 750 pump res. Overvolting will help but risky. Adding a second pump will more though.

Grab another dcp and have a serial pump config. Redundant and more pressure.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> X flow rads the fluid travels in an S-shape. When mounted vertically, this will put one of the end tanks where there is no port up top where air can get trapped and fluid will bubble past it. You don't need to flip the rad upside down (180 degrees), but rather tilt it as close as possible to horizontal (90 degrees) while the pump is going to hopefully get that air bubble to budge. Perhaps that's possible to do how your pump is mounted? Or perhaps it's possible to unmount the pump temporarily to keep it getting fed fluid while you tilt the case?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I guess that's an EK dcp 2.2 pump-res. Not enough pressure to push the trapped air out.
> 
> I used to set that issue using XSPC's 750 pump res. Overvolting will help but risky. Adding a second pump will more though.
> 
> Grab another dcp and have a serial pump config. Redundant and more pressure.


Should've mentioned that, It is an EK DDC 3.25 X-res. It seems plenty strong enough. Just have a little air trapped and would like it to be gone.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Should've mentioned that, It is an EK DDC 3.25 X-res. It seems plenty strong enough. Just have a little air trapped and would like it to be gone.


Almost no pump has the power to push the air out of the top-most end tank without a port in a vertically mounted crossflow rad. That's a really long way for the air to move and a fast flow is not a very good incentive for it to do so. There's many channels in the rad for the fluid to go right past it and the air can stay put.The fluid will likely just continue to bubble past it like a water bong even if you have a maxed out dual 18w DDCs. You are going to probably have to find some way to get that rad more horizontal for a bit so the air doesn't have to travel down the full length of the rad.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Almost no pump has the power to push the air out of the top-most end tank without a port in a vertically mounted crossflow rad. The fluid will likely just continue to bubble past it like a water bong even if you have a maxed out dual 18w DDCs.


I gotcha. well, I will try your suggestion of tilting it enough to see if that air pocket will move. If not, I'll just have to deal with it sounding like a small water relief in my room at random times throughout the day haha.

It's not loud at all, just noticeable over the sound of my fans.

Appreciate the help guys.,


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone here doing chrome-plated copper tubing? Like the Digital Storm computers? Do they use 15 mm or do they use 12 mm, where to get 12 mm then?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> X flow rads the fluid travels in an S-shape. When mounted vertically, this will put one of the end tanks where there is no port up top where air can get trapped and fluid will bubble past it. You don't need to flip the rad upside down (180 degrees), but rather tilt it as close as possible to horizontal (90 degrees) while the pump is going to hopefully get that air bubble to budge. Perhaps that's possible to do how your pump is mounted? Or perhaps it's possible to unmount the pump temporarily to keep it getting fed fluid while you tilt the case?


Hmmmm... thought xflow were single pass rads which usually have this flow










What you posted looks like a triple pass










Did they update the x flow to triple pass?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Will I be able to push my 3930K past 1,5 volts for daily usage with a water chiller added to my loop? Or should I look at getting a 3970X to push that a little better?

At 4,5 Ghz I am at 1,375 volts already, so I might be able to do 4,7 Ghz at 1,4, but I am sure I am looking at 1,5 volts at 4,8 Ghz. How long would my CPU hold up at 1,5 volts as daily clock?


----------



## llamaegg

Has anyone by chance ever had done a custom order with Dazmode? Trying to place one for a couple EK 780 GTX Ti - Nickel CSQ blocks and Monarch DIMM Modules after hearing that he should be able to custom order pretty much anything from EK, but it's taking quite a bit for them to get back to me. Trying to figure out if he's just busy or if just generally takes a while to reply.

Would rather support a "local" (same Country is local, right? lol), but I'm starting to wonder if this is going to happen. Maybe I'm just pessimistic.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Will I be able to push my 3930K past 1,5 volts for daily usage with a water chiller added to my loop? Or should I look at getting a 3970X to push that a little better?
> 
> At 4,5 Ghz I am at 1,375 volts already, so I might be able to do 4,7 Ghz at 1,4, but I am sure I am looking at 1,5 volts at 4,8 Ghz. How long would my CPU hold up at 1,5 volts as daily clock?


No, 1.5v is not safe for 24/7 use. You probably won't achieve 4.7GHz @ 1.4v. I think you'll need around 1.42v for just 4.6GHz. 1.4v is the general max safe. Water Cooling does not make higher voltage safer. Voltage is still voltage. Voltage is the killer, not heat! I can't stress enough. Hope this helps.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> No, 1.5v is not safe for 24/7 use. You probably won't achieve 4.7GHz @ 1.4v. I think you'll need around 1.42v for just 4.6GHz. 1.4v is the general max safe. Water Cooling does not make higher voltage safer. Voltage is still voltage. Voltage is the killer, not heat! I can't stress enough. Hope this helps.


So I should just spare my money and go for 3970X/4960X then?

I have been told I will bottleneck my setup with the 3930K at 4,5 Ghz so I have to go past that or get a beefier CPU with more power to get loose. So should I just see how far I could get with the voltage under 1,4 volts then?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> So I should just spare my money and go for 3970X/4960X then?
> 
> I have been told I will bottleneck my setup with the 3930K at 4,5 Ghz so I have to go past that or get a beefier CPU with more power to get loose. So should I just see how far I could get with the voltage under 1,4 volts then?


My truly honest opinion is to wait for the 5960X. It sounds like cash is no object.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> No, 1.5v is not safe for 24/7 use. You probably won't achieve 4.7GHz @ 1.4v. I think you'll need around 1.42v for just 4.6GHz. 1.4v is the general max safe. Water Cooling does not make higher voltage safer. Voltage is still voltage. Voltage is the killer, not heat! I can't stress enough. Hope this helps.


Spot on. My 3930k doesnt like 1.40v or less running 4.6 Ghz. Im running 1.41v to be be stable at 4.6


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I second the Frosted look, just don't seem to see it as much within the past year or so, everyone's gone crazy with the polisher, lol


You know, there are other ways to stand out and be different, other than making everything shiny.

...Like blocks with no bling.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2511.jpg.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> X flow rads the fluid travels in an S-shape. When mounted vertically, this will put one of the end tanks where there is no port up top where air can get trapped and fluid will bubble past it. You don't need to flip the rad upside down (180 degrees), but rather tilt it as close as possible to horizontal (90 degrees) while the pump is going to hopefully get that air bubble to budge. Perhaps that's possible to do how your pump is mounted? Or perhaps it's possible to unmount the pump temporarily to keep it getting fed fluid while you tilt the case?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hmmmm... thought xflow were single pass rads which usually have this flow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you posted looks like a triple pass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did they update the x flow to triple pass?


That's right. X-flow (cross flow) means just that. The water flows across the rad. There is no redirecting water involved.


----------



## ReXtN

Hey guys!

I have updatet my WC a bit since my last photo here, so im just going to toss out a few pictures









And, Yes, The radiator in Push Pull config in the front is a Monsta 360 Rad









WC Specs:
I7 4770k Delided With EK Supreme LTX block
Zotac GTX 780Ti With EK-FC 780 GTX Ti block
Alphacool Monsta 360mmx80mm Radiator
EK-DCP 4.0 Pump (ordering D5 tonight)
Swiftech MCRES Micro Reservoir
Black Primoflex 3/8"ID 5/8"OD tubing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anyone here doing chrome-plated copper tubing? Like the Digital Storm computers? Do they use 15 mm or do they use 12 mm, where to get 12 mm then?


Look in my sig for copper guides.I have made 3 copper loops so far....long before the overcharging Digital Storm too.....


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My truly honest opinion is to wait for the 5960X. It sounds like cash is no object.


Just tell me, why do i need a eight core 3,0 GHz cpu to handle four gpu's? .... There is no way that that cpu overclock further than the 3970x/4960x which is Six-cores, beside i do not have a strong belife in haswell-e to be honest. In games i do not think the 5960x is anything for me.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Look in my sig for copper guides.I have made 3 copper loops so far....long before the overcharging Digital Storm too.....


I was just asking where to buy that chrome tubing that Digital Storm uses, I have made a very complex copper tubing loop myself and do not really feel that i need any guides, but i will take a look. You may have some good information which i have missed. I still like to know where to buy chrome-plated copper tubing thouhg.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You don't buy chromed tube to bend (unless you have used a certain type that you know bends without crazing),you buy copper tube ,bend it then chrome it.
The 10mm tube I used is a tube that I have bent onsite before and I know its good for minimal crazing.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> So I should just spare my money and go for 3970X/4960X then?
> 
> I have been told I will bottleneck my setup with the 3930K at 4,5 Ghz so I have to go past that or get a beefier CPU with more power to get loose. So should I just see how far I could get with the voltage under 1,4 volts then?


I'd stick with the 3930K until Haswell Extreme comes out! No matter how powerful your CPU is, it will always be the determinant of your lowest fps. This is thanks to poor programming in today's applications. To compensate, the strongest CPU is required. Also, the more cores you have, generally the more data you can feed to the multiple GPU's assuming the program permits.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Just read threw hardware Canucks review on the Maximus Vii Gene and I know it's hard to judge from a pics but do you guys think there is enough room for a EK or EVGA Backplate between the soundcard and GPU?


----------



## BradleyW

It might JUST fit! It might be touching the sound card though.


----------



## sdmf74

I wondered the same thing


----------



## Wolfsbora

I have a feeling that with the "standoffs" on the base of the backplate and the ends of the capacitors on the sound card that they will touch but only by a tiny bit. Again, only a feeling. Haha


----------



## aznpersuazn

If it does touch, just apply some non-conducive insulation material betwixt the two.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Pretty Lame if it does , why did asus have to add that ugly sound card to the Gene , Z87 didn't have it.... If MSI's and Gigabytes mATX gaming boards weren't so ugly and goudy I'd of went with one of those..


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Pretty Lame if it does , why did asus have to add that ugly sound card to the Gene , Z87 didn't have it.... If MSI's and Gigabytes mATX gaming boards weren't so ugly and goudy I'd of went with one of those..


To easy the manufacturing process maybe? those sound cards are the same on some of the newer ROG boards.

Oh well, the good thing is that if you have a PCI sound card you can just remove that sucker out and be happy


----------



## GaMbi2004

@Destrto

DDC 3.25 X-res,
Isnt that with a tube res? if you fill it all the way to the top, you can tilt the case 90 degrees (and even more) alternatively, connect a hose to the filler cap and fill the hose with coolant (slowly to allow all the air from the res to get out)
Now you SHOULD be able to flip the case upside down, but 90 degrees on side or front, depending on radiator placement, should do the trick


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone know if they make an adapter that goes from a male bike pump thread size to a normal female fitting? I want to use a bike pump to manually push water through my loop.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @Destrto
> 
> DDC 3.25 X-res,
> Isnt that with a tube res? if you fill it all the way to the top, you can tilt the case 90 degrees (and even more) alternatively, connect a hose to the filler cap and fill the hose with coolant (slowly to allow all the air from the res to get out)
> Now you SHOULD be able to flip the case upside down, but 90 degrees on side or front, depending on radiator placement, should do the trick


Yes, it is a tube res.
I already have it filled as full as I could without it spilling over, even after letting some of the air bleed out over time. I tried tilting it and the direction it needs to tilt leaves the outlet of the pump right where the air pocket in the tube rises. I'll keep trying though.

It's just a slight annoyance, as it is air in the radiator, and luckily not in a block where it would cause problems.


----------



## GaMbi2004

What type of pump?
Im guessing the one where the cylinder is pressed directly against the tire? willing to buy another pump? they also come in versions with a hose.. that would be an easy conversion







normal female thread-> barb that fits the hose.

Other vice, I cant see why you would not be able to find a thread that fits your pump.. glue a hose to that and use the female->barb as mentioned above.

What will you be using it for? draining / cleaning?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Does anyone know if they make an adapter that goes from a male bike pump thread size to a normal female fitting? I want to use a bike pump to manually push water through my loop.


Schrader valve


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> What type of pump?
> Im guessing the one where the cylinder is pressed directly against the tire? willing to buy another pump? they also come in versions with a hose.. that would be an easy conversion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> normal female thread-> barb that fits the hose.
> 
> Other vice, I cant see why you would not be able to find a thread that fits your pump.. glue a hose to that and use the female->barb as mentioned above.
> 
> What will you be using it for? draining / cleaning?


I want to easily drain my entire loop with a small manual bike pump.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Schrader valve


Thanks! I'll check it out.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Just read threw hardware Canucks review on the Maximus Vii Gene and I know it's hard to judge from a pics but do you guys think there is enough room for a EK or EVGA Backplate between the soundcard and GPU?


Do let me know when you find out, since I'm probably going to get the same board.


----------



## jtom320

Does anyone know where I can get a Kuplex Kyros XT CPU waterblock for 1150? I've checked FCPU, PPC, Aquatuning and Aquacomputers own website. No one has it.

Am I missing a retailor that may have it? I need the nickel plated version. Copper is around in a few places but it must be nickel to match my waterblocks.

This is the last piece of AC kit I need (with the exception of two 290 backplates which I've basically given up on at this point). Honestly it's a huge pain tracking this stuff down. Worth it though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a Kuplex Kyros XT CPU waterblock for 1150? I've checked FCPU, PPC, Aquatuning and Aquacomputers own website. No one has it.
> 
> Am I missing a retailor that may have it? I need the nickel plated version. Copper is around in a few places but it must be nickel to match my waterblocks.
> 
> This is the last piece of AC kit I need (with the exception of two 290 backplates which I've basically given up on at this point). Honestly it's a huge pain tracking this stuff down. Worth it though.


http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/cpu-water-blocks/cpu-water-blocks/12890/aquacomputer-cuplex-kryos-xt-fuer-sockel-2011-g1/4?c=6464

^-- that + this work? --v

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/cpu-water-blocks/cpu-mountinig/10717/aquacomputer-umruestsatz-halterung-sockel-1366/1156/1155/1150/775-fuer-cuplex-kryos-pro-/-xt-/-hf?c=6464


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/cpu-water-blocks/cpu-water-blocks/12890/aquacomputer-cuplex-kryos-xt-fuer-sockel-2011-g1/4?c=6464
> 
> ^-- that + this work? --v
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/cpu-water-blocks/cpu-mountinig/10717/aquacomputer-umruestsatz-halterung-sockel-1366/1156/1155/1150/775-fuer-cuplex-kryos-pro-/-xt-/-hf?c=6464


Yes I believe so. Thank you so much.

I also ran across a site called Dazmode that has literally one left in stock. As a guy in Northern Virginia, USA ordering would Aquatuning US or Dazmode be better in terms of time?

I read an Aquatuning horror story not that long ago I'm a bit nervous about ordering from them to be completely honest. On the other hand ordering from the guys with literally one left in stock doesn't make me feel much better.

Also seems like some people really like Aquatuning. An endorsement from any of you guys would go a long way.


----------



## Gabrielzm

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/aqcocukrrfso.html

would this work @jtom320 ?


----------



## VSG

That's not in stock either.


----------



## Gabrielzm

not sure what mounting this is but you can have it cheap what they call be grade:

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=BG-012-AQ

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-049-AQ


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Yes I believe so. Thank you so much.
> 
> I also ran across a site called Dazmode that has literally one left in stock. As a guy in Northern Virginia, USA ordering would Aquatuning US or Dazmode be better in terms of time?
> 
> I read an Aquatuning horror story not that long ago I'm a bit nervous about ordering from them to be completely honest. On the other hand ordering from the guys with literally one left in stock doesn't make me feel much better.
> 
> Also seems like some people really like Aquatuning. An endorsement from any of you guys would go a long way.


I've ordered from Dazmode many times to the US, and from Aquatuning twice. Aquatuning has really fast shipping but do note that they will charge you a customs/import fees in addition to shipping charges. Whenever I order from Dazmode I always use the canada post shipping option because UPS often pulls import fees shenanigans with imported deliveries. They got me once for almost $30 for a $90 cpu air cooler I ordered from Germany and I'll never use UPS again for intl packages. Regular postage takes longer but they don't try to extort surprise fees from you.

I really like Dazmode, but if you're in a hurry I believe Aquatuning is more likely to be able to get it to you faster as long as they have it in stock.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've ordered from Dazmode many times to the US, and from Aquatuning twice. Aquatuning has really fast shipping but do note that they will charge you a customs/import fees in addition to shipping charges. Whenever I order from Dazmode I always use the canada post shipping option because UPS often pulls import fees shenanigans with imported deliveries. They got me once for almost $30 for a $90 cpu air cooler I ordered from Germany and I'll never use UPS again for intl packages. Regular postage takes longer but they don't try to extort surprise fees from you.
> 
> I really like Dazmode, but if you're in a hurry I believe Aquatuning is more likely to be able to get it to you faster as long as they have it in stock.


Not so much in a hurry just don't want to be sitting two weeks from now waiting for the thing to get here. Regardless I think I'll call Dazmode tommorow to see if they can confirm it's in stock. If so I'll probably go with them.

Also found a user on another forum who has one for sale so that may be an option to.

Wish I could just order this from Frozen. Oh well.


----------



## VSG

Go with Daz if nothing else works out, I had a nice discussion with him today evening about a few things which then led to banter. He just seems like a nice guy and is recommended by Canadians often.


----------



## jtom320

Also two people have PMed me saying on Aqucomputer's own site it's labelled "available from stock". I actually talked to Shoggy and he told me specifically it was not. I was just about to order it from there but I thought it was kind of a funny way of wording "in stock" even translated. Especially since most of the other items actually say "short delivery time".

Regardless I appreciate everyone's help. If anything I have two more water cooling sites to browse and waste money on when I'm bored. Had not even heard of Dazmode until now.


----------



## friskiest

Some new Bitspower compression fittings













Spoiler: More Images!


----------



## Ragsters

^ Those fittings look really nice. I hope they are cheaper then previous.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Want!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Does anyone know if they make an adapter that goes from a male bike pump thread size to a normal female fitting? I want to use a bike pump to manually push water through my loop.


McMaster part number: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=8063K38
Then get an npt 1/4 to g 1/4 thread adaptor: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_471&products_id=28048

Should be good. If you want to air leak test,you can get a pressure gauge from McMaster as well and another npt converter and put in some psi and see if you have leaks


----------



## friskiest

They're different, that's for sure.

A quote from the source:

"Premium G1/4" Silver Shining Quick Compression Fitting QCC5 For ID 1/2" OD 3/4" Tube-Only Available On Short Period and Model / Quantity Limited"


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> McMaster part number: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=8063K38
> Then get an npt 1/4 to g 1/4 thread adaptor: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_471&products_id=28048
> 
> Should be good. If you want to air leak test,you can get a pressure gauge from McMaster as well and another npt converter and put in some psi and see if you have leaks


Thank you so much! This is perfect! + rep


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Some new Bitspower compression fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Images!


monsoon much?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thank you so much! This is perfect! + rep


Np, glad I could help









I also highly recommend doing the air leak test strategy...soooo much cleaner, easier, and really even faster feedback on leaks than water


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> monsoon much?


I don't know if I'd go that far.
The tightening mechanism looks unique to Bitspower, no?
Also, from the looks of it, they don't look like they've been smothered in silver


----------



## lowfat

Those BP compressions look awesome minus the silly gold labeling. Why can't they go w/ logos that stand out less. Such an inflated opinion of their own products I guess.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Go with Daz if nothing else works out, I had a nice discussion with him today evening about a few things which then led to banter. He just seems like a nice guy and is recommended by Canadians often.


Indeed, DazMode rocks, I've ordered plenty of items from there in the past and shipping was fast even to the US. Prices are good too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Those BP compressions look awesome minus the silly gold labeling. Why can't they go w/ logos that stand out less. Such an inflated opinion of their own products I guess.


Agreed, they need to tone it down a little. Especially on the black fittings.


----------



## failwheeldrive

I guess I'm a bitspower fanboy, since the logos don't bother me lol. I do wish the black fittings had white logos instead of gold ones though... the matte black d5 mod kit has a white logo and it looks cleaner imo.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*


UGH. SO. CLEAN.

Love it man, great job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> hello everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> been awhile since i have posted any pics in this thread... My latest creation


Looks great as well! You reallyyyyy need to get some legit photos taken or something. The ones you have now aren't doing it justice, I can just tell.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Wow,much hate over a logo....
All manu's logo up their kit,why should BP be any different?

Would be nice for another colour other than gold tho.....


----------



## Gobigorgohome

If you guys do not like the gold color on the BP-fittings just buy EK-CSQ compression fittings, half the price and all black. I was quite surprised over those fittings actually.


----------



## Red1776

That kind of an odd statement. WC fittings have the smallest logo of any component in a Rig.



The case to the PSU, GPU,RAM, rads, Coolers, fans etc all have much larger and more prominent logo/branding that are impressed and or badged usually using as much of the surface area of the product as possible.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Do let me know when you find out, since I'm probably going to get the same board.


Might forget but you can sub my "Devil Lair" build log in my sig if your really interested!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Some new Bitspower compression fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are sexy, Def buying for my upcoming build!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> monsoon much?


I see where this comment comes from, but IMO monsoons are so ugly in builds with all the holes and never got why people loved them , these look much cleaner, but I want to see what they look like with a tube on them before I make my final opinion on them!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Those BP compressions look awesome minus the silly gold labeling. Why can't they go w/ logos that stand out less. Such an inflated opinion of their own products I guess.


I don't mind them, but to each there own!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Some new Bitspower compression fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Images!


Those are pretty sick. I like the low profile and sleek look to the.

In regards to the logo, I think my only problem with them is that they are gold....black logo on silver and white or silver on the black would look so much better IMO. Still would ( probably will at some point ) buy them and use them without any reservations


----------



## MadHatter5045

Are the old BP compression fittings going away or are these an additional line of fittings?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Are the old BP compression fittings going away or are these an additional line of fittings?


I would highly guess this would be an additional product line , there normal compression fittings sell really well!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I don't know if I'd go that far.
> The tightening mechanism looks unique to Bitspower, no?
> Also, from the looks of it, they don't look like they've been smothered in silver


they are basically the same with that cuts in the compression being smaller


----------



## friskiest

I like Bitspower as a brand and their fittings are top quality. I have personally never had issues with any of their fittings.
Perhaps thats why I don't really mind the logo on there. It would probably look nicer with a black/white contrast instead of black/gold, but it's not the end of the world for me.

For those who have an issue with the logo.. Wait for Barrow


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Some new Bitspower compression fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Images!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> ^ Those fittings look really nice. I hope they are cheaper then previous.


I doubt they be any cheaper seeing as they have chosen to put a "premium" tag along with the logo








Looks they've kept the massive ID for the 1/2 x 3/4 ones I think are pictured.
Their 3/8 x 5/8 don't have the biggest ID though - Barrow have a bigger bore in that size.

The Bitspower logo on their fittings has never bothered.
On some of their blocks though, what were they thinking


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I agree about the blocks....that and obsession with etching model numbers into stuff.....


----------



## morencyam

Agreed. The logos on the fittings don't bother me, as well as the Summit CPU block. But as B said, the massive logo on some of the GPU blocks, especially the Titan block, is hideous.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Agreed. The logos on the fittings don't bother me, as well as the Summit CPU block. But as B said, the massive logo on some of the GPU blocks, especially the Titan block, is hideous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Woooow that block is ugly , for a company who makes the some of the best fittings and decent looking CPU blocks , I have to saw the Bitspower GPU block is one of the ugliest I've ever seen! , No wonder you never see people with there blocks lol


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I doubt they be any cheaper seeing as they have chosen to put a "premium" tag along with the logo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks they've kept the massive ID for the 1/2 x 3/4 ones I think are pictured.
> Their 3/8 x 5/8 don't have the biggest ID though - Barrow have a bigger bore in that size.
> 
> The Bitspower logo on their fittings has never bothered.
> On some of their blocks though, what were they thinking


Couldn't agree more!
They need to tone down their block logos!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> That kind of an odd statement. WC fittings have the smallest logo of any component in a Rig.
> 
> 
> 
> The case to the PSU, GPU,RAM, rads, Coolers, fans etc all have much larger and more prominent logo/branding that are impressed and or badged usually using as much of the surface area of the product as possible.


Except they are on every single piece and gold. They stand out like an eyesore. Most brands use less invasive logos from my experience. It is impossible to remove their logos as well.


----------



## Pheozero

Which is why I don't use their black fittings. Black Sparkle 4 lyfe.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's not in stock either.


This happens to me at Sidewinder all the time. Design change (or more stock), Gary!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Woooow that block is ugly , for a company who makes the some of the best fittings and decent looking CPU blocks , I have to saw the Bitspower GPU block is one of the ugliest I've ever seen! , No wonder you never see people with there blocks lol


Yeah and imagine if it wasn't such a cool logo in and of itself, which it definitely is. This one is better but still too damn big and centered. At least dump the model name.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Except they are on every single piece and gold. They stand out like an eyesore. Most brands use less invasive logos from my experience. *It is impossible to remove their logos as well*.


I can attest to that. Tried all kinds of chemicals, from denatured alcohol to acetone, xylol, MEK, and even Tal-Strip Aircraft Coating remover(which took off the black paint, but left the gold logo). When I was trying to remove it I thought maybe it was just exposed and polished brass, but when I used the Tal-Strip and the black paint came off, you could still see the logo and it was a slightly different color than the now exposed brass. So I'm not sure what they use for the logo, but it won't come off for anything.


----------



## sdmf74

can you guys take a look at these two products and tell me if this switch would work with the converter and a pump for easier bleeding purposes? (I know the converter is correct I just wanna be able to power on/off easily) thanx!

Cathode rocker switch
PPCS AC to DC Adapter, 110v AC to 12v (5 Amp) DC Converter


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> can you guys take a look at these two products and tell me if this switch would work with the converter and a pump for easier bleeding purposes? (I know the converter is correct I just wanna be able to power on/off easily) thanx!
> 
> Cathode rocker switch
> PPCS AC to DC Adapter, 110v AC to 12v (5 Amp) DC Converter


I'm not sure about that switch, but it looks to me like you'd need to connect your pump to the 2 pin connector for it to work.

You might be better off to plug that 12v molex supply (BTW, here's a much better deal on one of those edit: my bad. I didn't notice it's out of stock. Well, here it is on ebay for less than ppcs) into a power strip that you can switch on/off instead. Or, what I'd do is use one of these instead with your PSU.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Agreed. The logos on the fittings don't bother me, as well as the Summit CPU block. But as B said, the massive logo on some of the GPU blocks, especially the Titan block, is hideous.


you are able to remove the plate and mod or create a new one like you want

if you remove the plate
the block is like that



and the cpu block is more than a average block
I really like it


----------



## sdmf74

That's one of the things I wasnt sure about,I didnt know if that 2 pin needed to be connected for it to work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not sure about that switch, but it looks to me like you'd need to connect your pump to the 2 pin connector for it to work.
> 
> You might be better off to plug that 12v molex supply (BTW, here's a much better deal on one of those edit: my bad. I didn't notice it's out of stock. Well, here it is on ebay for less than ppcs) into a power strip that you can switch on/off instead. Or, what I'd do is use one of these instead with your PSU.


That's one of the things I wasnt sure about,I didnt know if that 2 pin needed to be connected for it to work. I just placed a big order with jabtech but those were already out of stock but thanx. Also the one you pointed to on ebay is only 2 amp, think I need the 5 amp version. I already have a jumper for my PSU just was trying not to have to use my PSU.

Anyone else know if those I listed will work (will that rocker switch work without connecting the 2 pin cable?) I have never used cathodes.
That 2 pin connector looks like it has 5v and ground but both molex connectors do as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Strange they went for a bayonet fitting.......I can potential tube incompatibility issues occurring


----------



## stickg1

Yeah it looks like the Koolance VL3N type latch. Seems like it would be a PITA to clamp over soft tubing. And if it goes on too easy I would be weary of leaks.


----------



## failwheeldrive

It'll definitely be hard to get something like advanced lrt clamped down, but I imagine hitting the tube with a heat gun first would make it doable.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> It'll definitely be hard to get something like advanced lrt clamped down, but I imagine hitting the tube with a heat gun first would male it doable.


I know a lot of people stick their tubing in hot water to loosen it up a bit.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Yeah that works too. LRT can be a pain even with normal compression fittings, so I've definitely had to heat it up first before getting the collar screwed down. Otherwise I end up stripping the threads on the collar.


----------



## Maticb

I'm looking for a new case as my current one isn't big enough and I temporarily ghetto modded it to fit my cooling, the cases im looking at atm are these 2:

http://www.computeruniverse.net/en/products/90534041/nzxt-phantom-530.asp

http://www.computeruniverse.net/en/products/90545121/nzxt-h440.asp

As you can see the price is the same, what I am wondering is if both of them can fit 2x 360 rads(so that if I want to hit Crossfire or dual loop in the future I don't need to switch cases again). I am not afraid to cut and mod a little either.

I don't know what to choose because I like the design of the H440 more and it has the sound dampening already in, but the 530 feels bigger.

I know It's not the right thread but I didn't feel like making a new thread.

So that I won't be completely off topic, here is my first custom watercooling loop











What I basically had to do was cut out a hole for the pipes on the 240 rad and the 5,25 bay side to fit the other rad. I know it's stupid to connect 2 rads betwen them, but I couldn't do it any other way as I only bought straight fittings I will fix it when I get a new case.

Album, pics aren't top quality.
http://maticb.shrani.si/?WC+LOOP


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Enthoo Pro


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Enthoo Pro


this


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> I'm looking for a new case as my current one isn't big enough and I temporarily ghetto modded it to fit my cooling, the cases im looking at atm are these 2:
> 
> http://www.computeruniverse.net/en/products/90534041/nzxt-phantom-530.asp
> 
> http://www.computeruniverse.net/en/products/90545121/nzxt-h440.asp
> 
> As you can see the price is the same, what *I am wondering is if both of them can fit 2x 360 rads*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: (...snip...)
> 
> 
> 
> (so that if I want to hit Crossfire or dual loop in the future I don't need to switch cases again). I am not afraid to cut and mod a little either.
> 
> I don't know what to choose because I like the design of the H440 more and it has the sound dampening already in, but the 530 feels bigger.
> 
> I know It's not the right thread but I didn't feel like making a new thread.
> 
> So that I won't be completely off topic, here is my first custom watercooling loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I basically had to do was cut out a hole for the pipes on the 240 rad and the 5,25 bay side to fit the other rad. I know it's stupid to connect 2 rads betwen them, but I couldn't do it any other way as I only bought straight fittings I will fix it when I get a new case.
> 
> Album, pics aren't top quality.
> http://maticb.shrani.si/?WC+LOOP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Pro
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> this
Click to expand...

Enthoo Pro can't fit "2x 360 rads". The only place it can fit a 360mm rad is up top and there it's limited to 65mm thickness for both the fan and the rad, so pretty much limited to a 30mm thick rad in push or pull unless you want to mod the top by discarding the mesh filter/cover and put fans on top of the case. It's a decent case for the price, but it's pretty limited. The Luxe is the exact same case as the Pro except with a different top that gives room for a set of fans on top of the case under a removable filter cover, so the Luxe has room for a 45/60mm rad up top in push or pull or a 30mm in push-pull, and it has a different front and color-changing leds. The Luxe can't fit "2x 360 rads" though. If you want a Phanteks case that can fit that then you'd have to get their Primo.


----------



## VSG

PPC discounts:
Quote:


> During the HEAT of the Summer it is always great to see get some COOL SAVINGS! If you can't take the heat then what better time to work on you latest builds and mods in the comfort of your home AC. To help you get some new gear please checkout out the coupons below! Check out all the new Rigid Tubing supplies now in stock, as well as, all that latest greatest hardware and gear.
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend $50-500, get 8% off: "SUMMER14-8"
> Spend $501-1000 get 9% off: "SUMMER14-9"
> Spend over $1000 get 10% off: "SUMMER14-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 1st through August 10th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## failwheeldrive

Thanks for sharing geggeg. I was just about to place an order with them so it'll be nice to save a few extra bucks


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Mhm...







one of my favorite CPU blocks.










-Jeffinslaw


----------



## VSG

For once I have decided to wait and make a more complete list of parts I need rather than placing several dozen orders. Really hoping someone picks up the EK clear terminals or the Swiftech mcp50x pump.


----------



## Maticb

What about this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Enthoo Pro


Actualy I just said 2x360 because I assumed you can put one vertically, I wouldn't mind having less like 1x360 and 1x240 or something.
I like the Enthoo ones too, but they arent in stock where I am looking thanks for the suggestion thought.

I am kinda stupid thought, I didn't even check NZXT's offical site, I assume this means it actualy fits 2x360?

(specs for H440)

Radiator Support
Front 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm
Top 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm
Rear 1 x 140/120mm

I think I'll go with the H440


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Mhm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one of my favorite CPU blocks.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Those are some curious audio wires.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Those are some curious audio wires.


I think you meant "AWESOME" audio wires









I'm really digging the look, especially with the clear Supreme HF.


----------



## Lefik

Heh, I didn't mean to be negative; I quite like the wires. They're just a bit odd compared to any audio wires I've ever seen.


----------



## skupples

oh oh oh, @BramSLI1 I have a question for you! It looks like Swiftech has increased the tank size on the Maestrom V2 reservoir. Is this due to the issues V1 had with running MCP35x2 @ high speeds on the original tank? It was nearly impossible to run an MCP35X2 at anymore more than lowest setting, even with a completely submerged reservoir.


----------



## bundymania

New awesome blocks from Watercool


----------



## morencyam

Those are gorgeous. Might force me to buy a 290x just so I can use that block


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Mhm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one of my favorite CPU blocks.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Those are some curious audio wires.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Those are some curious audio wires.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you meant "AWESOME" audio wires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really digging the look, especially with the clear Supreme HF.
Click to expand...

The audio wires are just silver plated wire with clear insulation. It will match my PSU cables VERY well.









-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Those are gorgeous. Might force me to buy a 290x just so I can use that block


They also just launched a very similar looking block for 780/ti/Titan.


----------



## morencyam

I really like that black one. too bad i just cant afford that upgrade right now. i have to stick with my sli gtx470's for as long as i can


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Mhm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one of my favorite CPU blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Turn that block around! :teaching:


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> They also just launched a very similar looking block for 780/ti/Titan.


Aquacomputer knockoffs lol, just like everything else Heatkiller makes.

They do look nice though. Not as nice as kryographics, but nice all the same.


----------



## jtom320

Can't decide if I like those or my Aquacomputers better.

Prolly the AC's just because I'm a sucker for the Hawaiian theme.

Still those are some pretty blocks.


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Aquacomputer knockoffs lol, just like everything else Heatkiller makes.
> 
> They do look nice though. Not as nice as kryographics, but nice all the same.


Honestly, I think the Heatkillers look nicer, both are hot blocks but I really, really dig the look of this.


----------



## Lefik

I love the look of the aquacomputer blocks by themselves, but on certain cards I don't really like how they look installed. Most notably, the 780 block. I love the look of their 290X block installed though. Fortunately the slightly more aggressive and armored look of the Heatkiller blocks solves my issue with these blocks installed.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Turn that block around!


I can't with the way my loop is set up







working in a small case is tough!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> They also just launched a very similar looking block for 780/ti/Titan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer knockoffs lol, just like everything else Heatkiller makes.
> 
> They do look nice though. Not as nice as kryographics, but nice all the same.
Click to expand...

Wut?
Leave this thread and do not return.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Those are gorgeous. Might force me to buy a 290x just so I can use that block


yeah, SERIOUSLY.

and I just got a third 7970 too! these new blocks look incredible..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wut?
> Leave this thread and do not return.


agreed.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wut?
> Leave this thread and do not return.


lol so according to you heatkiller never copies aquacomputer's styling?







Please.


----------



## kcuestag

Did a few changes:

- Changed from push to pull on the top rad, easier to clean dust now from top with a vacuum cleaner.
- Changed from Clear to White tubing as clear ended up going yellowish no matter what.
- Removed white sleeved extensions as they gave me issues with my R9 290's due to not enough voltage.
- Removed P/P from MONSTA and left PULL only.
- Removed the EK bridge on the GPU's as it was a pain to install and easy to crack the plexi top from GPU blocks (Was afraid to travel 5 hour to a lan party with that bridge installed).
- Fixed the HDD Bay, the reservoir made it hang uneven, now it's straight.

BEFORE:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







AFTER:





@derickwm You guys have to do Supreme HF's again, best blocks ever made, specially the Plexi edition I have.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Watercool have had this look since Day1,granted the acrylic is a new thing but the actual styling is evident from the start.

By your reckoning then,Aquacomp copied this and added acrylic....


----------



## derickwm

I feel like you went backwards in terms of build progression


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Or the HT rad is not a progression of this.....


----------



## failwheeldrive

Aquacomputer has had the same style blocks for ages as well... your point?

Calling them aquacomputer knockoffs was obviously a joke; they're not blatant copies but it's pretty apparent to me that a lot of their designs are influenced by AC. Look at the current GPU block lineups from the various manufacturer's today, and the two blocks that most closely resemble each other are the kryographics and acrylic HK blocks. None of the other options available come close to having as many similarities as these two. Same with the rads I posted... they're extremely similar in appearance to the AMS series (only cheaper and with worse performance.)


----------



## failwheeldrive

lol HK's current radiator lineup looks absolutely nothing like that.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I feel like you went backwards in terms of build progression


Probably, due to the sleeved extensions, but I can't be bothered to fix them.









Maybe in the future, when I get a better power supply.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> lol HK's current radiator lineup looks absolutely nothing like that.


Its the MO-RA2,the rad that came before the current gen,I didnt say it was current did I? I said the current rads are a _progression_ from that


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Did a few changes:
> 
> - Changed from push to pull on the top rad, easier to clean dust now from top with a vacuum cleaner.
> - Changed from Clear to White tubing as clear ended up going yellowish no matter what.
> - Removed white sleeved extensions as they gave me issues with my R9 290's due to not enough voltage.
> - Removed P/P from MONSTA and left PULL only.
> - Removed the EK bridge on the GPU's as it was a pain to install and easy to crack the plexi top from GPU blocks (Was afraid to travel 5 hour to a lan party with that bridge installed).
> - Fixed the HDD Bay, the reservoir made it hang uneven, now it's straight.
> 
> BEFORE:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AFTER:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @derickwm You guys have to do Supreme HF's again, best blocks ever made, specially the Plexi edition I have.


I need a plexi top for my Sup HF.. T_T

tbh.. I haven't yet bothered to see if I can find them anywhere.


----------



## dean_8486

Made some changes!


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the MO-RA2,the rad that came before the current gen,I didnt say it was current did I? I said the current rads are a _progression_ from that


Yeah, I'm familiar with the mora... I've owned two of them in the past lol.

Once again, what's your point? Their current radiator lineup looks like AC's, and not their older style rads. That somehow proves me wrong? lol


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Aquacomputer has had the same style blocks for ages as well... your point?
> 
> Calling them aquacomputer knockoffs was obviously a joke; they're not blatant copies but it's pretty apparent to me that a lot of their designs are influenced by AC. Look at the current GPU block lineups from the various manufacturer's today, and the two blocks that most closely resemble each other are the kryographics and acrylic HK blocks. None of the other options available come close to having as many similarities as these two. Same with the rads I posted... they're extremely similar in appearance to the AMS series (only cheaper and with worse performance.)


What similarities am I meant to be seeing exactly? The fact that they are made of the same materials? ... All blocks are. The fact they look sort of vaguely similar? ... They do the same job and fit the same cards so All blocks look very much the same underneath, the Germans just don't slather everything in cheap plastics and LED nonsense.
'Closely resembling' is a very liberal use of that term. There are plenty of significant differences beyond the most over simplified shallow analysis.


----------



## failwheeldrive

You're really missing the similarities there? The shape of the blocks are almost identical, they're both milled out of thick pieces of nickel plated copper and topped with a thin plexi cover (as opposed to the norm today of using thick acrylic tops, ex: EK and Bitspower) they both use stainless steel bridges over the VRM section, they even have almost identical hole patterns on the left side.

Did I say they were identical? Nope. But like I said previously, they're much closer in appearance than any other two current gen GPU blocks from different manufacturers. That, along with other styling similarities in their product ranges, is enough to make me think Heatkiller was influenced by AC.

No idea why everyone is so butthurt by that lol. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and Heatkiller couldn't have picked a better design to follow. They're both great looking blocks.

Just to reinforce it, here are the other available 290x blocks:






Yeah, I'm just imagining the similarities between the two. They're all pretty much just identical copper slabs sitting on the PCB, right


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> I need a plexi top for my Sup HF.. T_T
> 
> tbh.. I haven't yet bothered to see if I can find them anywhere.


I tried finding replacements to be future proof, but clear plexi was gone long ago, now you can maybe find blue, green or red tops, but I don't like them at all.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Made some changes!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks pretty good, the one criticism I will make is that all those little white accents don't really work for my eyes. You probably should make them yellow instead. Either that or gone with white coolant. There's a lot of black, then a lot of yellow, then the white.. The white just doesn't fit IMO.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Yeah, I'm familiar with the mora... I've owned two of them in the past lol.
> 
> Once again, what's your point? Their current radiator lineup looks like AC's, and not their older style rads. That somehow proves me wrong? lol


Haven't those HK HTFS rads been out a loooong time? I had a little 120mm like two years ago. I don't see how it matters. And it's pretty evident that most WC companies copy each other.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Actually,Swiftech copied me on their block....yeah,I said it.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It looks pretty good, the one criticism I will make is that all those little white accents don't really work for my eyes. You probably should make them yellow instead. Either that or gone with white coolant. There's a lot of black, then a lot of yellow, then the white.. The white just doesn't fit IMO.
> Haven't those HK HTFS rads been out a loooong time? I had a little 120mm like two years ago. I don't see how it matters. And it's pretty evident that most WC companies copy each other.


I believe the AMS range is older... though I can't remember what HK's older rads looked like (aside from the mora of course.) Didn't they have weird g1/4 ports that were bare brass and stuck out really far? Or was that phobya?

I completely agree about the copying thing... bitspower is ridiculous about copying EK, and vice versa. I don't think it's a big deal at all, if anything it helps the consumer to have competitors trying to one up each other's designs. I was just pointing out the similarities and making a joke in the process, but apparently I offended the HK gods with my blasphemy.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually,Swiftech copied me on their block....yeah,I said it.


when you have such comments you make roflmao


----------



## stickg1

Heh, yeah my HK rad had stupid brass or copper ports sticking out of the rad. The finish on the body was super shiny, and it was nice to look at, but it added zero performance to my loop. I understood the joke, but I think the initial terms you used were of such a negative connotation that everyone got their panties in a wad, so to speak. But I don't wear panties.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Heh, yeah my HK rad had stupid brass or copper ports sticking out of the rad. The finish on the body was super shiny, and it was nice to look at, but it added zero performance to my loop. I understood the joke, but I think the initial terms you used were of such a negative connotation that everyone got their panties in a wad, so to speak. But I don't wear panties.


I guess I need to add disclaimers to my comments in the future to prevent similar situations









And btw... you'd look good in panties









DISCLAIMER: this comment should not be taken literally or construed as sexual harrassment. I do not want to see stickg1 in panties.... unless he wants me to


----------



## stickg1

Hey for an Aquero 6 XT with flow sensor who knows what I'll do


----------



## failwheeldrive

I've got a 5 pro with poweradjust ultra... gotta be worth a few selfies at least.

Granted, it used to be your poweradjust so I guess that's not worth much lol


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Aquacomputer knockoffs lol, just like everything else Heatkiller makes.
> 
> They do look nice though. Not as nice as kryographics, but nice all the same.


I couldn't care less if they copied. It looks significantly better than the Aquacomputer blocks. The VRM bridge solution is significantly better looking. If you look at their other blocks they look nothing like AC blocks.

Watercools bare aluminum fins w/ round tubes came well before AC picked it up. Although not sure why either computer uses them as they are a huge step backwards in terms of performance. Bare aluminum casing isn't exactly something new either. Magicool had radiators w/ them ages ago.

I would be all over this block if Watercool had a CPU block that wasn't ancient and look it. Can't say anything different about AC CPU blocks are they are equally if not more ugly and dated.


----------



## MeanBruce

Good Morning little EK reservoir









Good Morning new 2.5inch Sorbothane Hemispheres for the new CaseLabs S8 arriving soon









Good Morning stren









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8968_zps16234061.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8970_zps2dfe5bb7.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8971_zps276a2a01.jpg.html


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I couldn't care less if they copied. It looks significantly better than the Aquacomputer blocks. The VRM bridge solution is significantly better looking. If you look at their other blocks they look nothing like AC blocks.
> 
> Watercools bare aluminum fins w/ round tubes came well before AC picked it up. Although not sure why either computer uses them as they are a huge step backwards in terms of performance. Bare aluminum casing isn't exactly something new either. Magicool had radiators w/ them ages ago.
> 
> I would be all over this block if Watercool had a CPU block that wasn't ancient and look it. Can't say anything different about AC CPU blocks are they are equally if not more ugly and dated.


Yeah, I wasn't referring to their other blocks.

Pretty sure they both use stainless steel for the side panels. AMS has anodized panels you can buy though.

And the AMS series performs pretty well. Terrible value for performance, but the build quality is awesome and it's nice to not have to flush them before use since they're modular. I didn't notice a performance difference when I switched from an aluminum 480 to a copper one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually,Swiftech copied me on their block....yeah,I said it.
> 
> 
> 
> when you have such comments you make roflmao
Click to expand...

Think they didnt?










:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I couldn't care less if they copied. It looks significantly better than the Aquacomputer blocks. The VRM bridge solution is significantly better looking. If you look at their other blocks they look nothing like AC blocks.
> 
> Watercools bare aluminum fins w/ round tubes came well before AC picked it up. Although not sure why either computer uses them as they are a huge step backwards in terms of performance. Bare aluminum casing isn't exactly something new either. Magicool had radiators w/ them ages ago.
> 
> I would be all over this block if Watercool had a CPU block that wasn't ancient and look it. Can't say anything different about AC CPU blocks are they are equally if not more ugly and dated.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I wasn't referring to their other blocks.
> 
> Pretty sure they both use stainless steel for the side panels. AMS has anodized panels you can buy though.
> 
> And the AMS series performs pretty well. *Terrible value for performance, but the build quality is awesome* and it's nice to not have to flush them before use since they're modular. I didn't notice a performance difference when I switched from an aluminum 480 to a copper one.
Click to expand...

I know,I have some...


----------



## jason387

Guys I needed a little help. I was considering a custom water loop,something really budget and inexpensive as it will be my first custom water loop. Another thing is that I'm from India so does frozen cpu ship to my country?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Guys I needed a little help. I was considering a custom water loop,something really budget and inexpensive as it will be my first custom water loop. Another thing is that I'm from India so does frozen cpu ship to my country?


Go for an EK or XSPC kit,cheap but the money is spent in the right places.

Mail FCPU for a shipping quote.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

An EK or XSPC kit is great advice...especially cause you don't have to worry about one little thing being wrong or missing and waiting a whole 'nother month to get it replaced/shipped to you. I think it's best for _any_ noob...

Edit: Maybe direct from EK is a good option for you, too. IDK if XSPC does that; that's too bad in your case I figure.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Guys I needed a little help. I was considering a custom water loop,something really budget and inexpensive as it will be my first custom water loop. Another thing is that I'm from India so does frozen cpu ship to my country?


Performance PCs ships to India, fairly certain. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php

Those EK kits look nice but at $425, sheesh just save up another $100 and get the parts you want.

Problem with those kits is no single watercooling company is best at making ALL the components. (and all the throw in fans are horrible)

Spend an extra $100 or so and get the parts you REALLY want.

XSPC
EK
AquaComputer
Bitspower
Monsoon

Take the best from all these groups.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go for an EK or XSPC kit,cheap but the money is spent in the right places.
> 
> Mail FCPU for a shipping quote.


So there is a chance they could ship to my country? Will those be better than a Antec 920 or the noctua U12S? I presently have both at the moment. I will be getting a new chassis as well. Would the NZXT Source be a good buy for water cooling?


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I couldn't care less if they copied. It looks significantly better than the Aquacomputer blocks. The VRM bridge solution is significantly better looking. If you look at their other blocks they look nothing like AC blocks.
> 
> Watercools bare aluminum fins w/ round tubes came well before AC picked it up. Although not sure why either computer uses them as they are a huge step backwards in terms of performance. Bare aluminum casing isn't exactly something new either. Magicool had radiators w/ them ages ago.
> 
> I would be all over this block if Watercool had a CPU block that wasn't ancient and look it. Can't say anything different about AC CPU blocks are they are equally if not more ugly and dated.


The real test will be performance. The 290 kyrographics block is the best in that aspect overall. Especially with the backplate which gives killer vrm temps.

Downside of course is it is next to impossible to find the active or passive version. Ive been waiting on the active backplate to come in stock for months now. At this point I'd take the passive but I've been told the stock situation there is the same.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I've got a 5 pro with poweradjust ultra... gotta be worth a few selfies at least.
> 
> Granted, it used to be your poweradjust so I guess that's not worth much lol


LOL, yeah I might snap a few photos for that!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> The real test will be performance. The 290 kyrographics block is the best in that aspect overall. Especially with the backplate which gives killer vrm temps.
> 
> Downside of course is it is next to impossible to find the active or passive version. *Ive been waiting on the active backplate to come in stock for months now. At this point I'd take the passive but I've been told the stock situation there is the same*.


Yeah Aquacomputer needs to make more stock. I want an Aquero with a few different accessories but can't find them all in stock atm.


----------



## jason387

Will either of these be a decent reservoir/pump combo?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=36102

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=38996

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=32791

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_367&products_id=40269

What about this radiator- http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=33851 ?


----------



## VSG

If those are the only options, I would go with the XSPC 750 combo


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If those are the only options, I would go with the XSPC 750 combo


Okay so it's the best out of the lot? Is there a way someone could help piece all of the stuff I need? Maybe within 200$. Is that even possible?


----------



## VSG

What components are you looking to watercool? Something like a Swiftech H220-X with a universal GPU block would come within $200. There are also other kits from XSPC, Alphacool, EK etc depending on what you have and need.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Okay so it's the best out of the lot? Is there a way someone could help piece all of the stuff I need? Maybe within 200$. Is that even possible?


Eh, I guess this is probably the best you're going to do.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=39024

Although if it were my money I would gladly pay the price difference for this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=39811


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What components are you looking to watercool? Something like a Swiftech H220-X with a universal GPU block would come within $200. There are also other kits from XSPC, Alphacool, EK etc depending on what you have and need.


Whatever gives me the best performance within that price range. Only looking to cool the cpu.


----------



## VSG

Is the CPU you are looking to cool the FX 6300? If so, how are your current 2 coolers at keeping the temps under load?


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is the CPU you are looking to cool the FX 6300? If so, how are your current 2 coolers at keeping the temps under load?


Well, they can both manage gaming at around 4.6Ghz with a max of 53c mostly at under 50c.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Made some changes!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Super clean looking, amazing use of yellow! I do agree that I wish all of the white parts were black, but stellar loop nonetheless


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Well, they can both manage gaming at around 4.6Ghz with a max of 53c mostly at under 50c.


What are you expecting to get from watercooling? Temps won't be an issue since 53 C is nothing really. Noise could possible be reduced if you went with a silent pump and fans.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What are you expecting to get from watercooling? Temps won't be an issue since 53 C is nothing really. Noise could possible be reduced if you went with a silent pump and fans.


Was hoping to get 5Ghz for 24/7 usage. Would a Swiftech H220 do?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Was hoping to get 5Ghz for 24/7 usage. Would a Swiftech H220 do?


I can't tell you that to be honest. I am not experienced with the AMD side to see if you can't just raise volts enough right now for a 5 GHz clocks at higher temps which are still below the Tj for that chip.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Think they didnt?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


It's funny, I showed that to Gabe a few weeks after I saw his design for our new Komodo blocks and I asked him if he had shown his design to anyone else. He said that he hadn't shown it to anyone else, but he did say that they looked very similar.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Think they didnt?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> It's funny, I showed that to Gabe a few weeks after I saw his design for our new Komodo blocks and I asked him if he had shown his design to anyone else. He said that he hadn't shown it to anyone else, but he did say that they looked very similar.
Click to expand...

Cheque to the usual address Bram......

XD


----------



## MeanBruce

The EK D5 Uni V2 mount cut out is exactly 2.5inches or 63.5mm in diameter so the D5 pump can slip down inside and be easily decoupled with some energy absorbing supports, it's a wonderfully simple design.

Asking Performance PCs for a 67.5mm diameter laser cutout chassis mod into a CaseLabs Mercury S8 midchassis section to compensate for the CaseLabs 4mm U-Channel natural rubber liner. The horizontal circular chassis cutout will act as an EK D5 Uni mount.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8977_zpse35dc210.jpg.html


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cheque to the usual address Bram......
> 
> XD


Yes, just send it to the usual address...


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, just send it to the usual address...


Hey what we selling here? Can I get in?


----------



## lowfat

Was fixin' for the smell of polish again. So I went hard.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Was fixin' for the smell of polish again. So I went hard.


----------



## snef

Polish is so nice


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Was hoping to get 5Ghz for 24/7 usage. Would a Swiftech H220 do?


Was able to drop 20C going water from a Silver Arrow that topped at 1.488V Vcore.

But didn't mean its good for 5GHz.

Your chip matters for FX. Try to be on topic, so go back to FX thread.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Was fixin' for the smell of polish again. So I went hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good as usual. Wish I could take photos as well as you do as well, lol


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I'm actually still interested as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I decided against it was because the dual's performance was so bad. With it essentially costing double what a regular top does (with the mod kit) it better be good.


Hey @jtom320
How has the Alphacool D5 top gone for you ??

I finally got around to crunching some numbers









I can't say one way or the other if the Alphacool was a good choice.
BUT I can tell you the Bitspower one would have been a bad choice








The performance just isn't there on the V2 Bitspower D5 Top


lowfat - beautiful pics of the polish job - as usual


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hey @jtom320
> How has the Alphacool D5 top gone for you ??
> 
> I finally got around to crunching some numbers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say one way or the other if the Alphacool was a good choice.
> BUT I can tell you the Bitspower one would have been a bad choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The performance just isn't there on the V2 Bitspower D5 Top
> 
> 
> lowfat - beautiful pics of the polish job - as usual


It's funny you ask. I have my pump on setting four. I'm also using the Aquacomputer Aqualis res. The one that sort of rains water down. I'm actually kind of dissapointed in the strength of the effect at setting four which I'm fairly certain correlates to flow.

That said I have no way to measure it on it's own or versus anything else. I have the V2 version of the pump. Basically the one that is not rounded on the edges. Quite happy with the looks which truthfully is very important to me. Not so sure about performance. My loop at this point is actually fairly restrictive. Three blocks and two large rads so I don't know if my fountain effect is normal or what.

I was actually considering a second D5. Probably not a great idea but considering it. I'm going to be moving one of the rads to a different case and installing another larger one so I figured with that I might do it. Who knows.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Was able to drop 20C going water from a Silver Arrow that topped at 1.488V Vcore.
> 
> But didn't mean its good for 5GHz.
> 
> Your chip matters for FX. Try to be on topic, so go back to FX thread.


There is a way of talking and by a way I mean politely. My post is relevant.


----------



## mus1mus

I am just waiting for my alphacool 480 d5/xt (since d5/it is out of stock on FCPU!).

Planning on adding another kit in a couple of months (yes, cheaper to get it by the kits than per component! Extra components will go to girl's rig)

Question is, will 2 d5 varios in serial be enough to push decent flow in a loop consisting of 2 x xt480s, 2 RX360s, and usual mobo and GPU blocks?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> There is a way of talking and by a way I mean politely. My post is relevant.


Ohh, apologies for that. But I mean it, people there will be able to help you better without getting OT like in here. There are water coolers in that thread than can give you insight on what you need to know.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> It's funny you ask. I have my pump on setting four. I'm also using the Aquacomputer Aqualis res. The one that sort of rains water down. I'm actually kind of dissapointed in the strength of the effect at setting four which I'm fairly certain correlates to flow.
> 
> That said I have no way to measure it on it's own or versus anything else. I have the V2 version of the pump. Basically the one that is not rounded on the edges. Quite happy with the looks which truthfully is very important to me. Not so sure about performance. My loop at this point is actually fairly restrictive. Three blocks and two large rads so I don't know if my fountain effect is normal or what.
> 
> I was actually considering a second D5. Probably not a great idea but considering it. I'm going to be moving one of the rads to a different case and installing another larger one so I figured with that I might do it. Who knows.


Hah - you might just be the one person

I just finished doing up some charts which relates..
Loop restriction and power settings (done on AC D5 USB) but basically the same D5 pump.


----------



## JAM3S121

Can anyone comment on what a Corsair 450D can hose in terms of watercooling easily?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Can anyone comment on what a Corsair 450D can hose in terms of watercooling easily?


I think with that case it is just a matter of what are you willing to get rid of to allow rad space. I have seen a lot of them remove the hdd cages and use a 240 rad in the front. And then put a 360 rad in the top, which kind of blocks your 5.25" bays.

I haven't used the case myself so I do not know how thick of rads you can use of the top of my head. It looked like 30-45mm I'm the top and 30-60mm in the front could be done depending on how you set everything up. I'd suggest asking in the corsair obsidian club. They will probably get you some specifics on what is possible and if there are any tricks you can do:
http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-900d-800d-750d-700d-650d-550d-450d-350d-250d-club


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> You're really missing the similarities there? The shape of the blocks are almost identical, they're both milled out of thick pieces of nickel plated copper and topped with a thin plexi cover (as opposed to the norm today of using thick acrylic tops, ex: EK and Bitspower) they both use stainless steel bridges over the VRM section, they even have almost identical hole patterns on the left side.
> 
> Did I say they were identical? Nope. But like I said previously, they're much closer in appearance than any other two current gen GPU blocks from different manufacturers. That, along with other styling similarities in their product ranges, is enough to make me think Heatkiller was influenced by AC.
> 
> No idea why everyone is so butthurt by that lol. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and Heatkiller couldn't have picked a better design to follow. They're both great looking blocks.
> 
> Just to reinforce it, here are the other available 290x blocks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm just imagining the similarities between the two. They're all pretty much just identical copper slabs sitting on the PCB, right


Anyone that doesn't agree with your opinion is therefore but hurt. Riiiiight.

I suppose swiftech must have copied Xspc because the are both square slabs of black plastic and brushed aluminium.



Koolance must copy EK and so on because they are just as similar as the Germans.



Acetal, stainless steel, and the most damning of all, they are both made of copper!


----------



## snef




----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Ohh, apologies for that. But I mean it, people there will be able to help you better without getting OT like in here. There are water coolers in that thread than can give you insight on what you need to know.


Thanks. Will do


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

































Can't wait to see the final pictures!!!


----------



## sdmf74

I really hope Bitspower makes one of those heatsinks for the MCP50X (and Tops)


----------



## brandotip

Just getting to the tail end of my first watercooled build. The case is a NZXT Phantom 630 (white). I still need to order some sleeved cables and do some serious cable management; I was also thinking about adding another 240 rad on the bottom, but I was able to borrow a decent camera so I snapped a couple pics. More details are on the build page in my sig


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I really hope Bitspower makes one of those heatsinks for the MCP50X (and Tops)


Highly unlikely.


----------



## spikezone2004

This may be a stupid question but id rather double check before i order the fittings, what size is 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD is mm?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> This may be a stupid question but id rather double check before i order the fittings, what size is 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD is mm?


11mm x 16mm


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> 11mm x 16mm


Thats what i thought, but they all say 16mm x 11mm do they just put it backwards?


----------



## morencyam

Yup, just backwards. I've seen a few manufacturers do that. Nothing to worry about


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Thats what i thought, but they all say 16mm x 11mm do they just put it backwards?


If it was 16mm internal diameter and 11mm external diameter, it would quite be the Antimatter Tube, dream of all water coolers


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> If it was 16mm internal diameter and 11mm external diameter, it would quite be the Antimatter Tube, dream of all water coolers


----------



## Gabrielzm

Guys I am trying to find these fans in US without luck: Phanteks PH-F120S (either white or white with black). Anyone have any news about it? Are they discontinued?


----------



## minicooper1

work in progress...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Guys I am trying to find these fans in US without luck: Phanteks PH-F120S (either white or whit with black). Anyone have any news about it? Are they discontinued?


That model fan was discontinued by Phanteks last year. All US resellers have been sold out for some time. There looks to be only a few places worldwide that still have any new ones left for sale. overclockers.uk is probably your best bet.


----------



## BradleyW

Looking interesting minicooper1. Good work!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That model fan was discontinued by Phanteks last year. All US resellers have been sold out for some time. There looks to be only a few places worldwide that still have any new ones left for sale. overclockers.uk is probably your best bet.


problem is they don't allow checkout from Brazil... I am missing a package with 4 sent from specialtech a month and half ago...Thks for the info.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Anyone that doesn't agree with your opinion is therefore but hurt. Riiiiight.
> 
> I suppose swiftech must have copied Xspc because the are both square slabs of black plastic and brushed aluminium.
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance must copy EK and so on because they are just as similar as the Germans.
> 
> 
> 
> Acetal, stainless steel, and the most damning of all, they are both made of copper!


People telling me to leave this thread and never come back over a joke I made are butthurt lol.

And no, none of those blocks are as close in appearance as the acrylic top HK and kyrographics.

The swiftech and xspc blocks have difference overall shapes, completely different inlet/outlet ports, and totally different materials used (one a brushed aluminum top over clear LED-lit acrylic, the other is matte plastic with a smaller brushed aluminum plate.) Just because they both share one small detail (the brushed aluminum) doesn't mean one inspired the other. Though that could have been the case, and there's nothing wrong with it if it was.

Same goes for the EK and Koolance blocks. They're both acetal with stainless steel VRM plates, but look at the actual designs of the cards. The shapes and other design elements are completely different. They look almost nothing alike. You're really reaching here.


----------



## skupples

Heatkiller & Aquacomputer have similar designs

Koolance & EK have similar designs

Heatkiller is more so like AQ than KL is like EK. Hell, HK even has near identical i/o to AQ. Coincidence? On purpose? I don't know, or care.

end of story. butthurt >>>>>>


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Was fixin' for the smell of polish again. So I went hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks fantastic as usual lowfat. I wish EK never made the switch to csq... their older blocks are stunning.


----------



## morencyam

I think everyone is taking this a little too seriously. Some blocks look similar. Some more so than others. Whether that is intended or merely a coincidence is planned doesn't really matter at this point. No need more drama. Let's keep it friendly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Looks fantastic as usual lowfat. I wish EK never made the switch to csq... their older blocks are stunning.


I agree 100%. Granted they did remedy the problem for those of us that don't like CSQ by releasing the "Clean CSQ" but I still think the Supreme HF(the square version, not the rounded one) was the best looking block they ever made


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think everyone is taking this a little too seriously. Some blocks look similar. Some more so than others. Whether that is intended or merely a coincidence is planned doesn't really matter at this point. No need more drama. Let's keep it friendly.
> I agree 100%. Granted they did remedy the problem for those of us that don't like CSQ by releasing the "Clean CSQ" but I still think the Supreme HF(the square version, not the rounded one) was the best looking block they ever made


No doubt. I love their older GPU blocks as well. The huge stainless vrm plate on all their blocks kills the aesthetic imo. The Titan/780 clean csq SE looked nice, but it still can't compare with the older nickel plexi blocks. The rounded edges and integrated inlet/outlet bridge looked amazing.

From the murderbox mkII prototype:


----------



## Raul-7

I agree, that's why I still have my Supreme HF. I hate their new blocks.

I'm going with AC for my GPU blocks.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> I agree, that's why I still have my Supreme HF. I hate their new blocks.
> 
> I'm going with AC for my GPU blocks.


Great combination. I running kryographics with clean csq cpu/mobo/ram blocks, but only because it's my only option for new blocks. My dream setup would probably be a rampage iii black edition and 980x with plexi ek blocks. The new black edition looks great with clean csq blocks too though, so it's a tough call.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> No doubt. I love their older GPU blocks as well. The huge stainless vrm plate on all their blocks kills the aesthetic imo. The Titan/780 clean csq SE looked nice, but it still can't compare with the older nickel plexi blocks. The rounded edges and integrated inlet/outlet bridge looked amazing.
> 
> From the murderbox mkII prototype:


Newer Bitspower blocks have a very similar look and flow path to the older EK blocks:

(second pic courtesy of @snef)


----------



## failwheeldrive

That's true, they do have some nice looking blocks (and I've found their blocks to have better build quality/materials than EK... their nickel plating is flawless) Their selection just isn't as large as EK, so that's why I'm still running them. Always use Bitspower for plumbing and pump/reservoir accessories though.


----------



## morencyam

They do look similar James. I just wish they wouldn't put the big logo and model number right in the center like that. A little more subtle like down in the corner like the old EK blocks would have been perfect


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> They do look similar James. I just wish they wouldn't put the big logo and model number right in the center like that. A little more subtle like down in the corner like the old EK blocks would have been perfect


Maybe you can polish out the writing?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> That's true, they do have some nice looking blocks (and I've found their blocks to have better build quality/materials than EK... their nickel plating is flawless) Their selection just isn't as large as EK, so that's why I'm still running them. Always use Bitspower for plumbing and pump/reservoir accessories though.


Yeah I exclusively use Bitspower fittings, but never really use their blocks. Like you said their selection just isn't large enough, not to mention their GPU blocks, CPU blocks and Ram blocks are not uniform, like they were all designed at different times - which I'm sure is the case. Same issue I have with Aquacomputer's blocks - they're running around with these amazing looking GPU blocks and yet they're holding on to dear life to an ancient CPU block that doesn't match at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> They do look similar James. I just wish they wouldn't put the big logo and model number right in the center like that. A little more subtle like down in the corner like the old EK blocks would have been perfect


Yeah EK has their design and aesthetics down to a science at this point, they really do no wrong. Although they badly need to update their pump/reservoir combo options as well as their pump tops which still have no non-circle options (unless I'm mistaken?) to be uniform with the rest of their block selection which is out of this world.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Maybe you can polish out the writing?


That would be sweet - Can anyone confirm?


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That would be sweet - Can anyone confirm?


It can be done with some sanding and polishing.


----------



## snef

Yes, can be but nedd more sanding than just remove some frosting

I keep the logo, because in the build where i will use it, i will not see it

Sli config on a asus gryphon, both gpu are very closed and very closed to bottom of case


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah I exclusively use Bitspower fittings, but never really use their blocks. Like you said their selection just isn't large enough, not to mention their GPU blocks, CPU blocks and Ram blocks are not uniform, like they were all designed at different times - which I'm sure is the case. Same issue I have with Aquacomputer's blocks - they're running around with these amazing looking GPU blocks and yet they're holding on to dear life to an ancient CPU block that doesn't match at all.
> Yeah EK has their design and aesthetics down to a science at this point, they really do no wrong. Although they badly need to update their pump/reservoir combo options as well as their pump tops which still have no non-circle options (unless I'm mistaken?) to be uniform with the rest of their block selection which is out of this world.
> That would be sweet - Can anyone confirm?


Couldn't agree more about Aquacomputer... it's a shame that won't update their CPU block design and options.

And yeah, your builds are always bitspower fitting porn lol. The plumbing is always my favorite part of your work.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah I exclusively use Bitspower fittings, but never really use their blocks. Like you said their selection just isn't large enough, not to mention their GPU blocks, CPU blocks and Ram blocks are not uniform, like they were all designed at different times - which I'm sure is the case. Same issue I have with Aquacomputer's blocks - they're running around with these amazing looking GPU blocks and yet they're holding on to dear life to an ancient CPU block that doesn't match at all.
> Yeah EK has their design and aesthetics down to a science at this point, they really do no wrong. Although they badly need to update their pump/reservoir combo options as well as their pump tops which still have no non-circle options (unless I'm mistaken?) to be uniform with the rest of their block selection which is out of this world.
> That would be sweet - Can anyone confirm?


Haha, I got tired of the circle csq design on my pump/reservoir combo so i just turned it around and now it looks clean.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I exclusively use Bitspower fittings, but never really use their blocks. Like you said their selection just isn't large enough, not to mention their GPU blocks, CPU blocks and Ram blocks are not uniform, like they were all designed at different times - which I'm sure is the case. Same issue I have with Aquacomputer's blocks - they're running around with these amazing looking GPU blocks and yet they're holding on to dear life to an ancient CPU block that doesn't match at all.
> 
> 
> Yeah EK has their design and aesthetics down to a science at this point, they really do no wrong. Although they badly need to update their pump/reservoir combo options as well as their *pump tops which still have no non-circle options (unless I'm mistaken?)*


I only know of *this one*, but it sure is a beauty.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I only know of *this one*, but it sure is a beauty.


Yeah the new D5 kits are gorgeous, forgot about those. I just wish they'd completely revamp their res/pump combo lineup.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> They do look similar James. I just wish they wouldn't put the big logo and model number right in the center like that. A little more subtle like down in the corner like the old EK blocks would have been perfect
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah EK has their design and aesthetics down to a science at this point, they really do no wrong. Although they badly need to update their pump/reservoir combo options as well as their pump tops which still have no non-circle options (unless I'm mistaken?) to be uniform with the rest of their block selection which is out of this world.
Click to expand...

We've got those


----------



## Jameswalt1

@derickwm, any plans on the table for an expanded line of fittings - rotaries, extensions, L's, T's, valves etc...? Seems like the only thing the EK family is missing, time to dethrone Bitspower in this area









With the rep and customer base EK has you'd totally dominate (even more than you already do







) if you released a massive selection of fittings.


----------



## liberato87

Hi guys, what do you think about this mid-tower case for watercooling builds?

SILENTIUMPC AQUARIUS X90





















This is my review

http://www.xtremehardware.com/recensioni/case-e-modding/silentiumpc-aquarius-x90-pure-black-il-mid-tower-pensato-per-il-watercooling-2014073010035/

And this is the official website

www.silentiumpc.com/en/aquarius-x90-pure-black/?lang=en


----------



## Johnny Utah

nice i like the small footprint


----------



## Lefik

Reminds me of that new Rosewill Rise case. Definitely a fan of horizontally short cases, they tend to fit really well into a lot of desks with shelving.


----------



## royce5950

I have almost a full bottle of primochill intensifier Blood Red and id be happy to donate a small dropper full to a couple of fellow OCN members looking to add red to their loop or a pinkish redish tint... I have mine so red that you can barely see through it. I have the tiny droppers and I will send one to anybody interested. Just to help out some friends here in the watercooling club. This is with 14 or 16 drops. Pm me if you want to dye your loop. 6 months no gunk. Ive drained and refilled my loop just last week. Everything was 100% clean in 4 flushes. Since ill just be sending 1 dropper to any member that wants some dye I don't ask of any shipping payment or anything. im just down for my people









.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I have almost a full bottle of primochill intensifier Blood Red and id be happy to donate a small dropper full to a couple of fellow OCN members looking to add red to their loop or a pinkish redish tint... I have mine so red that you can barely see through it. I have the tiny droppers and I will send one to anybody interested. Just to help out some friends here in the watercooling club. This is with 14 or 16 drops. Pm me if you want to dye your loop. 6 months no gunk. Ive drained and refilled my loop just last week. Everything was 100% clean in 4 flushes. Since ill just be sending 1 dropper to any member that wants some dye I don't ask of any shipping payment or anything. im just down for my people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> .










Looking good Royce


----------



## kamikazemonkey

The Silentium Aquarius X90 is in fact the same as ROSEWILL RISE but from a diferent manufacturer....
In Europe is Silentium PC and in the USA is Rosewill....

I'm looking for an upgrade of my pc from a Corsair 250D to this one.... Seems like a great case for me due the sortened space

One curious thing:
On Europe (only avaible on Poland in fact) you have to buy the case and the windowed panel separately, on USA the Rosewill Rise already comes with the windowed panel, and exist a second version with blue led fans

Hope it helps!

I love the cases that you dont see everyday, same as pc builds (really tired of the ROG themed builds.... don't bother me, I like it, but its like always a little the same)


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I have almost a full bottle of primochill intensifier Blood Red and id be happy to donate a small dropper full to a couple of fellow OCN members looking to add red to their loop or a pinkish redish tint... I have mine so red that you can barely see through it. I have the tiny droppers and I will send one to anybody interested. Just to help out some friends here in the watercooling club. This is with 14 or 16 drops. Pm me if you want to dye your loop. 6 months no gunk. Ive drained and refilled my loop just last week. Everything was 100% clean in 4 flushes. Since ill just be sending 1 dropper to any member that wants some dye I don't ask of any shipping payment or anything. im just down for my people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> .


This is what OCN is all about. i'm not a fan of red. so i'm not into this freebie. Yet just thinking about the community is what makes it stronger. it might be something everybody can afford but offering it is way bigger than its value. Applause


----------



## spikezone2004

Anyone control their pump through their motherboard? I getting the MCP50X and plan to control it through my motherboard, just wondering if their is anything I should know before hand


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Anyone control their pump through their motherboard? I getting the MCP50X and plan to control it through my motherboard, just wondering if their is anything I should know before hand


It is a PWM controlled pump, so the CPU fan header is the only reliable fan header on the motherboard I can recommend.Read this link for more: http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is a PWM controlled pump, so the CPU fan header is the only reliable fan header on the motherboard I can recommend.Read this link for more: http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx


That is a interesting article. I like the zalman controller that they recommend (wish i saw that before I bought mine).

I planned on hooking it up to my CPU fan header as it is like you said the only reliable fan header for it. I assume I will have no issues using it on the cpu header, main reason I want to control it is so its not running 100% all the time. After reading that though, changing the speed using the CPU header it won't cause any damage to the pump will it?


----------



## VSG

Nah, you will be good. The pump is powered directly from the PSU so the CPU fan header isn't providing the power needed- just the PWM signal.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nah, you will be good. The pump is powered directly from the PSU so the CPU fan header isn't providing the power needed- just the PWM signal.


Thanks! can't wait to order the last couple things i need and redo my loop. upgrading from the XSPC 750 res/pump to the MCP50X and going to get the MCP35X reservoir to put on top.


----------



## Futan

My PC has been making this almost cricket chirping-like sound on-and-off lately. I'm assuming it's the pump, could it be anything else? If it is the pump, is it a definite sign of impending doom? /indenial lol


----------



## skupples

*inserts first statement about cavitation, even though it likely isn't cavitation*


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futan*
> 
> My PC has been making this almost cricket chirping-like sound on-and-off lately. I'm assuming it's the pump, could it be anything else? If it is the pump, is it a definite sign of impending doom? /indenial lol


Id say make a video of it so people can hear what it sounds like


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> @derickwm, any plans on the table for an expanded line of fittings - rotaries, extensions, L's, T's, valves etc...? Seems like the only thing the EK family is missing, time to dethrone Bitspower in this area
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the rep and customer base EK has you'd totally dominate (even more than you already do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) if you released a massive selection of fittings.


That's exactly what we're working on right now, James







I've been pushing for a stronger line of fittings for about 6 months now and we're slowly getting there!


----------



## VSG

Ya, I figured that last survey was mostly for fittings. Be the first company to offer compression hardline fittings in both Metric and Imperial (because the USA can't handle metric) please.


----------



## ozzy1925

and when will be the ek survey winners be announced?I saw we get a free t-shirt and %10 discount?


----------



## Ramzinho

@Derickwm
i've a question in my thread about the difference in performance among your 3 different EK 290X ref blocks. hope u can help "my thread"


----------



## VSG

Oh ya, I forgot about that shirt. Hey @derickwm, I demand an EK shirt to go along with my Bitspower, Intel and CaseLabs shirt that I got for free. Also, King Iguana.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's exactly what we're working on right now, James
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been pushing for a stronger line of fittings for about 6 months now and we're slowly getting there!


Hey Derick, those clean pump tops you show are only available with the d5 included? No option for those without the pump?

cheers


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> and when will be the ek survey winners be announced?I saw we get a free t-shirt and %10 discount?


We're just waiting for all the winners to email us back so we have their names, then we'll announce.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> @Derickwm
> i've a question in my thread about the difference in performance among your 3 different EK 290X ref blocks. hope u can help "my thread"


Performance is the same. Simply aesthetics.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh ya, I forgot about that shirt. Hey @derickwm, I demand an EK shirt to go along with my Bitspower, Intel and CaseLabs shirt that I got for free. Also, King Iguana.


If you haven't heard yet, you probably didn't win sadly 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's exactly what we're working on right now, James
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been pushing for a stronger line of fittings for about 6 months now and we're slowly getting there!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Derick, those clean pump tops you show are only available with the d5 included? No option for those without the pump?
> 
> cheers
Click to expand...

As of right now, only available with a D5.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you haven't heard yet, you probably didn't win sadly


Ok


----------



## The Source

Can we get some legislation passed regarding reservoir size limits please? It looks completely out of place. Ridiculous even. I see this quite often, maybe not to this extent though.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> 
> 
> Can we get some legislation passed regarding reservoir size limits please? It looks completely out of place. Ridiculous even. I see this quite often, maybe not to this extent though.


ROFL ....call the vote Source


----------



## mus1mus

Does the same apply for Bay Reservoirs? Those are more MASSIVE!


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Does the same apply for Bay Reservoirs? Those are more MASSIVE!


Hopefully not, because if I successfully build my own bay res it's going to be pretty freaking tall!


----------



## skupples

Swiftech Maelstrom V2 should be pretty good now that they have 2x'd the fluid volume, though i'm guessing it is going to be huuuuuuuuge with the pumps attached.... Oh, looks like it only houses one pump now.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's exactly what we're working on right now, James
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been pushing for a stronger line of fittings for about 6 months now and we're slowly getting there!


AWESOME news - How soon are we looking at? I have two builds about to be started and I need new fittings for both, It'd sure be nice to spend my dollars with EK rather than Bitspower this time (if you are allowed to disclose)









The exciting part here is that I'm assuming they wont be covered in dragon logos...


----------



## skupples

And to think, we may... JUST MAY spend less on fittings than all hardwre combined!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> AWESOME news - How soon are we looking at? I have two builds about to be started and I need new fittings for both, It'd sure be nice to spend my dollars with EK rather than Bitspower this time (if you are allowed to disclose)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The exciting part here is that I'm assuming they wont be covered in dragon logos...


Agreed, nice subtle (yet still visible if one looks) EK logos on delightful black fittings would be lovely ^_^


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Agreed, nice subtle (yet still visible if one looks) EK logos on delightful black fittings would be lovely ^_^


Something subtle would be very nice - for example if the fitting is matte black make the logo gloss black, vice versa


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's exactly what we're working on right now, James
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been pushing for a stronger line of fittings for about 6 months now and we're slowly getting there!
> 
> 
> 
> AWESOME news - How soon are we looking at? I have two builds about to be started and I need new fittings for both, It'd sure be nice to spend my dollars with EK rather than Bitspower this time (if you are allowed to disclose)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The exciting part here is that I'm assuming they wont be covered in dragon logos...
Click to expand...

Which fittings are you looking for? I can possibly provide a more accurate window 

On the topic of logos... which angled adapters are people currently more a fan of?

CSQ










Or PSC:










If we did a revision design, what would you guys like to see?


----------



## skupples

less knobs.


----------



## VSG

PSC, and I would love to see push type quick disconnects that don't corrode off like Oolance stuff. Also, compression type hardline fittings in both metric and imperial as mentioned earlier.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Which fittings are you looking for? I can possibly provide a more accurate window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the topic of logos... which angled adapters are people currently more a fan of?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CSQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or PSC:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If we did a revision design, what would you guys like to see?


The PSC's for sure, far more universally appealing to all builds, the CSQ ones are beautiful but far too unique to be used in just any build, large footprint too.

I think a revised (and vastly expanded) line of PSC fittings with a very subtle logo would be perfect. Bitspower is dominating too hard in this sector with their large selection of visually neutral fitting designs (minus the dragons of course). They have a slim footprint and are available in many common shades to appeal to any build.

Time for EK to infiltrate the fittings scene and prepare for world domination


----------



## VSG

Seeing how Bryan is in here too, I would like to express interest in Swiftech getting into the hardline arena as well.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seeing how Bryan is in here too, I would like to express interest in Swiftech getting into the hardline arena as well.


I'm sure they will soon. It would be nice to see an expanded Swiftech fitting line too - they're existing fitting line up is gorgeous and they did the logo perfect!


----------



## VSG

Agreed, they got the logo part spot on.


----------



## morencyam

Definitely PSC. I love the PSC angled adapters. I use those exclusively now in place of Bitspower angled adapters because of how similar they look but at a much lower price.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Which fittings are you looking for? I can possibly provide a more accurate window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the topic of logos... which angled adapters are people currently more a fan of?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CSQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or PSC:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If we did a revision design, what would you guys like to see?
> 
> 
> 
> The PSC's for sure, far more universally appealing to all builds, the CSQ ones are beautiful but far too unique to be used in just any build, large footprint too.
> 
> I think a revised (and vastly expanded) line of PSC fittings with a very subtle logo would be perfect. Bitspower is dominating too hard in this sector with their large selection of visually neutral fitting designs (minus the dragons of course). They have a slim footprint and are available in many common shades to appeal to any build.
> 
> Time for EK to infiltrate the fittings scene and prepare for world domination
Click to expand...

That's the plan  I'll be in touch as soon as I can about projected ETAs.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, PSC.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Something subtle would be very nice - for example if the fitting is matte black make the logo gloss black, vice versa


Oooooh, that would be gorgeous!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Which fittings are you looking for? I can possibly provide a more accurate window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the topic of logos... which angled adapters are people currently more a fan of?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CSQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or PSC:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If we did a revision design, what would you guys like to see?


Much as I like the look of the CSQ's for their rugged uniqueness, I'd have to say PSC, especially if they also came in a 45 degree version.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Oooooh, that would be gorgeous!
> Much as I like the look of the CSQ's for their rugged uniqueness, I'd have to say PSC, especially if they also came in a 45 degree version.


They already come in a 45


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Something subtle would be very nice - for example if the fitting is matte black make the logo gloss black, vice versa
> 
> 
> 
> Oooooh, that would be gorgeous!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Which fittings are you looking for? I can possibly provide a more accurate window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the topic of logos... which angled adapters are people currently more a fan of?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CSQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or PSC:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If we did a revision design, what would you guys like to see?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Much as I like the look of the CSQ's for their rugged uniqueness, I'd have to say PSC, especially if they also came in a 45 degree version.
Click to expand...

They do


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seeing how Bryan is in here too, I would like to express interest in Swiftech getting into the hardline arena as well.


I'll talk with Gabe about this again tomorrow and see what he says. He wasn't too excited about it a couple of months ago, but since then it's about all that you see anymore. Even people that are just getting into water cooling are jumping right into acrylic hardlines.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll talk with Gabe about this again tomorrow and see what he says. He wasn't too excited about it a couple of months ago, but since then it's about all that you see anymore. Even people that are just getting into water cooling are jumping right into acrylic hardlines.


----------



## Fidelitas

I have three EVGA 780ti's and a CPU to cool. I have a very large case, Coismos II; can anyone give me a suggestion of what I should buy and about what it will cost me to give my system a good cooling system. I have never done one before, so the easier to install the better.

Thank you everyone.


----------



## skupples

Sounds like a great addition to one of those Switchech all in one kits! Give them more than enough tubing & a few fittings to route their CPU >> Radiator loop & that should make newbies rather happy.


----------



## failwheeldrive

I'd consider using EK fittings in a build if the finish were improved. The nickel versions have a dull yellowish tint compared to BP silver shiny fittings that isn't as attractive imo. And the black finish is sort of like the swiftech black from my experience. It's thin, scratches easily and shows the underlying metal in spots. I like the style of the PSC fittings though.


----------



## RpeeKooz

MY SETUP

MY RIG


need another 680 waterblock so i can go sli. need a daytime photo but thats all i got atm
hope you like


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> They already come in a 45


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> They do


My bad guys, I totally failed to notice the second page in the shop - those are some fairly lovely looking fittings!


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Not sure if this is the right place, but here it goes since it's the water cooling club. In case you haven't subscribed to PPCS's newsletter, here are the latest coupon codes.
End of summer sale:
Spend $50-500, get 8% off: "SUMMER14-8"
Spend $501-1000 get 9% off: "SUMMER14-9"
Spend over $1000 get 10% off: "SUMMER14-10"

The summer is over?!!! What the hell...........


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll talk with Gabe about this again tomorrow and see what he says. He wasn't too excited about it a couple of months ago, but since then it's about all that you see anymore. Even people that are just getting into water cooling are jumping right into acrylic hardlines.


Yup. These days for any build to get noticed, hardline tubing seems like a must. I would like to see at least 1/2x3/8" compression style fittings compatible with the acrylic/PETG/copper tubing available at most domestic stores here. That way you want won't have to worry about tubing unless necessary.


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm sure they will soon. It would be nice to see an expanded Swiftech fitting line too - they're existing fitting line up is gorgeous and they did the logo perfect!


I totally agree. Their build quality is superb. I'm quite surprised they don't have a rigid tubing line out already, but hopefully it is in the works. But in the interim the Monsoon hardlines looks pretty nice with them. Also it wouldn't hurt to add more color options.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm sure they will soon. It would be nice to see an expanded Swiftech fitting line too - they're existing fitting line up is gorgeous and they did the logo perfect!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> I totally agree. Their build quality is superb. I'm quite surprised they don't have a rigid tubing line out already, but hopefully it is in the works. But in the interim the Monsoon hardlines looks pretty nice with them. Also it wouldn't hurt to add more color options.


You guys think that the Swiftech lock-Seal is good fittings? they are much cheaper than the competitors? if they are good why we see no swiftech love?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm sure they will soon. It would be nice to see an expanded Swiftech fitting line too - they're existing fitting line up is gorgeous and they did the logo perfect!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> I totally agree. Their build quality is superb. I'm quite surprised they don't have a rigid tubing line out already, but hopefully it is in the works. But in the interim the Monsoon hardlines looks pretty nice with them. Also it wouldn't hurt to add more color options.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You guys think that the Swiftech lock-Seal is good fittings? they are much cheaper than the competitors? if they are good why we see no swiftech love?
Click to expand...

I've used the compression fittings and I wasn't a huge fan. The paint scratched easily, the collar would get stuck frequently. You should see the state they're in after being used a few times... not much paint thanks to stuck collars and having to use a wrench. They did look nice though!

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## ReXtN

Hey guys!
I spent my Monday night bendings Acrylic Tubes, and the result is what you see in the picture below








This was the first time I have bendt acrylic tubing, but it went okey, and im pleased with the result









I used Primochill Tubing and Primochill Revolver Rigid Compression fittings.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I've used the compression fittings and I wasn't a huge fan. The paint scratched easily, the collar would get stuck frequently. You should see the state they're in after being used a few times... not much paint thanks to stuck collars and having to use a wrench. They did look nice though!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


performance wise? leaks? build quality internally other than the paint issue?


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> performance wise? leaks? build quality internally other than the paint issue?


When I first started I used Swiftech's lock-seals. It sealed perfectly the first time with me tightening it down by hand. But you can tighten it down more with a tool. If you use a tool put masking tape on your tool to help minimize damage to the finish. I've used Swiftech, Monsoon, and Primochill fittings, anytime a bare tool is involved there is going to be damage to the finish. Using a tool to just tighten down the base and then tighten down the lock-seal as tight as you can by hand worked fine for me. I had zero leaks and the build quality is great. I am still using their rotary adapters in my build today.


----------



## skupples

hm.... I haven't had a chance to use the new Swiftech fittings yet, but the old ones would always corrode, no matter what I did. I believe I have posted pics of fittings pulled from my PC. BP would be clean, even Alphacool would be clean, but the Swiftech fittings would be white & crusted to hell. Its almost as if the powder coat was being consumed. Yes, I tried multiple different coolants, always the same effect.


----------



## spikezone2004

What do you guys recommend as the best way to clean radiators?

I am about to be redoing my loop and going to take all my components and clean everything, but for the radiators iv read so many different things like hot water and vinegar or rubbing alcohol then I have read vinegar causes corrosion and such. What is the hands down most effective way to give them a good flush before I put my loop back together?

For my CPU block I plan on using lemon juice then a thorough rinse after


----------



## skupples

What ever you end up doing, make sure you run multiple baking soda flushes to neutralize those acidic properties.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey I'm just curious on you're opinions , brainstorming for my build , I've come across the Sexy White Bitspower fittings , and can't seem to find any pics of people using them. So what do you guys think of this color scheme , case exterior and interior all black ,black clean csq mobo mosfets , black clean Csq GPU blocks , along with all the Rez , pump tops etc , then full nickle clean csq ek CPU block , and then use the white BP compression fittings with Purple Primochill adv lrt tubing with UV led lighting...

Think the white fittings would look stupid ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> What do you guys recommend as the best way to clean radiators?
> 
> I am about to be redoing my loop and going to take all my components and clean everything, but for the radiators iv read so many different things like hot water and vinegar or rubbing alcohol then I have read vinegar causes corrosion and such. What is the hands down most effective way to give them a good flush before I put my loop back together?
> 
> For my CPU block I plan on using lemon juice then a thorough rinse after


mayhems Blitz


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What ever you end up doing, make sure you run multiple baking soda flushes to neutralize those acidic properties.


That I have never heard of before, I planned on doing the cleaning by hard shaking and sitting and then hooking up mock up loop and running water through them for a bit to thoroughly flush them, can i run baking soda and water through the pump? Or just shake them with baking soda and water


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I've used the compression fittings and I wasn't a huge fan. The paint scratched easily, the collar would get stuck frequently. You should see the state they're in after being used a few times... not much paint thanks to stuck collars and having to use a wrench. They did look nice though!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> performance wise? leaks? build quality internally other than the paint issue?
Click to expand...

They performed like any other compression fitting. Internal build quality was good, o-ring performed well. They just weren't very durable on the outside. But in hindsight I suppose it was my fault since I didn't wrap anything around them when I used a wrench to tighten/loosen them.


----------



## mercinator16

I've never done a SLI build before, what do I need for the cards other than blocks and backplates for sli 780 ti classys?


----------



## spikezone2004

What do you guys think about this diagram of my loop setup, any suggestions?

Only thing I can think off that might not be the best is the top radiator having pull and exhaust. Think id get better performance using push and intake through the radiator but then that leaves only the rear fan as exhaust. what do you guys think?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey I'm just curious on you're opinions , brainstorming for my build , I've come across the Sexy White Bitspower fittings , and can't seem to find any pics of people using them. So what do you guys think of this color scheme , case exterior and interior all black ,black clean csq mobo mosfets , black clean Csq GPU blocks , along with all the Rez , pump tops etc , then full nickle clean csq ek CPU block , and then use the white BP compression fittings with Purple Primochill adv lrt tubing with UV led lighting...
> 
> Think the white fittings would look stupid ?


You mean these? 

They're very far from stupid!









Check @snef 's builds.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Not sure if this is the right place, but here it goes since it's the water cooling club. In case you haven't subscribed to PPCS's newsletter, here are the latest coupon codes.
> End of summer sale:
> Spend $50-500, get 8% off: "SUMMER14-8"
> Spend $501-1000 get 9% off: "SUMMER14-9"
> Spend over $1000 get 10% off: "SUMMER14-10"
> 
> The summer is over?!!! What the hell...........


that would have been nice to know last night when I put in a decent order


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> What do you guys think about this diagram of my loop setup, any suggestions?
> 
> Only thing I can think off that might not be the best is the top radiator having pull and exhaust. Think id get better performance using push and intake through the radiator but then that leaves only the rear fan as exhaust. what do you guys think?


Yeah, I'd definitely run the top rad as a filtered intake so it's not just drawing in warm air from the bottom rad. You'll also have positive pressure if you run it as an intake, which will help with dust buildup in the chassis. If you wanted more balanced airflow you could flip the front to run as an exhaust, but it isn't necessary.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Yeah, I'd definitely run the top rad as a filtered intake so it's not just drawing in warm air from the bottom rad. You'll also have positive pressure if you run it as an intake, which will help with dust buildup in the chassis. If you wanted more balanced airflow you could flip the front to run as an exhaust, but it isn't necessary.


I have dust filter on top fans (I currently have them as intake)
You are right though it'll be more beneficial to have them as intake for cooler air going through the rad. Thank you.

I have a air filter in front of my pc, I wipe that thing clean every week or two and its always covered in dust.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You mean these?
> 
> They're very far from stupid!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check @snef 's builds.


Never asked if the fittings themselves are sexy, i already know they are lol. as for sneff's build very sexy and clean, but he has all white themed builds which im not doing, majority of my build will be black , with purple tubing and was wondering what all your guys opinion of white BP compression fittings would it clash or look good?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Do you have any other white accents? If not, I'd just stick with matte black fittings.


----------



## mus1mus

most walls are white.









Purple is already OoP in there I guess?

So some whites would (meant wouldn't) hurt. But I'm not artistic nor have a taste for art.


----------



## Qu1ckset

How long do pastels fluids last ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Do you have any other white accents? If not, I'd just stick with matte black fittings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> most walls are white.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Purple is already OoP in there I guess?
> 
> So some whites would hurt. But I'm not artistic nor have a taste for art.


Was thinking all white Cables possibly but i think im just going to save the idea of white fitting for another build and stick with the Matte Black fittings


----------



## phynce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> I've never done a SLI build before, what do I need for the cards other than blocks and backplates for sli 780 ti classys?


Just your choice of crystal links or terminal block and the latter is dependant on your blocks


----------



## Jeronbernal

Anyone here know where I can buy the rubber backplate piece and mounting backplate for a ek supremacy for 1150 socket processors? I can't seem to find my box with my supremacy hardware -_- I'm in the US


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> most walls are white.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Purple is already OoP in there I guess?
> 
> So some whites would hurt. But I'm not artistic nor have a taste for art.


I mixed black and white in my old TJ11 build.

Personally I liked the contrast, and I am using black and white in my M8 build as well.

I say go for it












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> MY SETUP


I'd totally outfit that desk with three curved OLED screens.


----------



## Jakewat

Not sure if someone has already mentioned these, but I will anyway. Alphacool trying to jump aboard the rigid train. In my opinion these look pretty stock standard (look like copied primochill ghost compressions), and with alphacool's average reputation with fittings I don't know how I feel about them. What do you guys think?
http://www.overclock3d.net/articles/misc_hardware/alphacool_rigid_tubing_and_fittings_released/1


----------



## lowfat

Wait, is there two o-rings going on under the collar on the compression fitting?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Wait, is there two o-rings going on under the collar on the compression fitting?


I don't think so lowfat. I'm not sure why the pic shows two like that. It could be showing one that's normally inside the main fitting.

Anyway, obviously no one can say for sure how these will turn out. But based on alphacool's prior reputation in fittings, I know I'll be avoiding them like the plague. They're hideous, anyway.


----------



## Jakewat

The only difference that they seem to be offering is by selling metal tube made specifically for their fittings. But I don't know how well this will work considering also that they seem to be only offering 20cm and 40cm lengths at the moment (according to the article.)


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Wait, is there two o-rings going on under the collar on the compression fitting?


A nylon washer is on top of the O-Ring as shown on the pic.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> A nylon washer is on top of the O-Ring as shown on the pic.


good spotting, didn't notice that till I looked a bit harder. More fiddly bits, great.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> The only difference that they seem to be offering is by selling metal tube made specifically for their fittings. But I don't know how well this will work considering also that they seem to be only offering 20cm and 40cm lengths at the moment (according to the article.)


I _might_ be interested in the metal tubing


----------



## Noviets

The new Haswel-E series coming out in the next few weeks, is the mounting still the same as the Haswell socket or will we have to wait for new waterblocks for them specificially?


----------



## IT Diva

Hi guys,

I need to get some feedback from those of you who have tri/quad GPU setups with a single PSU. . . . . . And anyone with experience with chillers

I have a set of 4 MSI Lightning 7970's with EK blocks coming, tip of the hat to wermad, and while I'm not sure yet, just which rig will get that upgrade, it will be one with only enough room for a single PSU and relatively limited rad space.

Would the Platimax 1350 be enough, or would I be better covered with a 1500W or 1600W.

In the over 1350W range, the maxrevo 1500W and Lepa 1600W seem to get good reviews and are both 180cm long, which is easier to work with than the CM or Silverstone which are 22cm.

To be able to get a low delta t with the high ambients here in the tropics and the limited rad space, I'm looking at going to a chiller setup in the loop. This one, while overpriced for sure, at least I can order from PPC's and take advantage of the "end of summer " 10% off sale, plus they will ship here, which is often a problem sourcing parts:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38582

Your thoughts and feedback are welcomed,

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A good 1200w should do it,I run a 1500w Platimax for my SR2,easily the best PSU I have used.
You cannot go wrong with LEPA/ENERMAX.
The question should be...do you have enough current from your 110v supply to support a 1500w PSU at full beans?

I didn't check the chiller link but I recommend Hailea chillers. Superb chillers with a variety of cooling capabilities.


----------



## cyphon

I agree, you should be fine with a 1200W with either a 3 or 4 gpu setup with a good bit of headroom for overclocking.

I do not hAve experience with chillers, so I will defer to others on the chiller question


----------



## VSG

Darlene, if overvolting is in the picture then I would have to recommend a single rail 1500+w PSU like the Corsair ax1500i or the EVGA 1600G2. Just be sure your breakers and lines can handle ~1650-1700w draw if it comes to full usage.

I am also with B-Neg and recommending this chiller instead: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_373&products_id=32957

Way cheaper, works better and you can get a more powerful unit from elsewhere that ships to you or a nearby aquarium/pet store.


----------



## stanneveld

Small update in my rig, got my EK stuff in it

EK Supermacy Nickel plexi CSQ
EK 290x Nickel plexi CSQ
EK CSQ Fittings
Primochill Advanced LRT
Alphacool UT6 full copper 420 radiator.
Koolance PMP 400 with EK X-top v2
Bitspower watertank 100
Aquacomputer flowmeters
Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 XT
2x Aquacomputer inline temp meter on the in/out of the radiator
Aquacomputer poweradjust 3 for the pump.
1 Liter of TFC RED UV









At the moment going to take it aparts again.
Need to put in the 1550 jetplate in the cpu block (now it has the standard jetplate in it)
Bitspower watertank is gonna dissapear going to be replaced with an front bay Aquacomputer res



And the single PMP400 is going to get help from another PMP400


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Not sure if someone has already mentioned these, but I will anyway. Alphacool trying to jump aboard the rigid train. In my opinion these look pretty stock standard (look like copied primochill ghost compressions), and with alphacool's average reputation with fittings I don't know how I feel about them. What do you guys think?


The metal tubing does look very nice. I am surprised that others (Bitspower, Primo, EK, etc) haven't yet come up with this for their own version of "hard" tubing. Your point on their reputation for just average fittings is well taken. I only have one 90 rotary out of dozens of fittings (for another build in progress that I can never find the time to get to and finish it seems) from Alphacool, and try not to use it. But, hey, if they come out with it, may be they would also improve on their fittings....lol


----------



## VSG

I read the thread on OC3D and the tubing seems to be 13mm outer diameter, as are the fittings. I was interested in the tubing and getting enhanced multilinks from Bitspower but that's not happening with this exclusivity.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I read the thread on OC3D and the tubing seems to be 13mm outer diameter, as are the fittings. I was interested in the tubing and getting enhanced multilinks from Bitspower but that's not happening with this exclusivity.


Its Aquatuning so they also call 1/2" 13mm. Just to, you know, make it more confusing.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its Aquatuning so they also call 1/2" 13mm. Just to, you know, make it more confusing.


If the chrome/deep black tubing is indeed 1/2" x 3/8", I want to see if the outer finish can handle bends.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its Aquatuning so they also call 1/2" 13mm. Just to, you know, make it more confusing.
> 
> 
> 
> If the chrome/deep black tubing is indeed 1/2" x 3/8", I want to see if the outer finish can handle bends.
Click to expand...

I would be amazed if it does bend without crazing,I only knew of one brand of tube that could take a 90 without crazing....and I have been a plumber for many years.
Chances are they are going for fitting users....to make more monies.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would be amazed if it does bend without crazing,I only knew of one brand of tube that could take a 90 without crazing....and I have been a plumber for many years.
> Chances are they are going for fitting users....to make more monies.


I have a feeling you are right, especially with the 90º fitting in the ad. I would be glad to be pleasantly surprised though. Aquatuning should have these on sale anytime now.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Wait, is there two o-rings going on under the collar on the compression fitting?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I don't think so lowfat. I'm not sure why the pic shows two like that. It could be showing one that's normally inside the main fitting.
> 
> Anyway, obviously no one can say for sure how these will turn out. But based on alphacool's prior reputation in fittings, I know I'll be avoiding them like the plague. They're hideous, anyway.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> A nylon washer is on top of the O-Ring as shown on the pic.


The article says each fitting uses two o-rings plus a gasket/washer.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Does the Clear Primochill Primoflex Adv LRT have the clouding issues after a few months use like the other brands?


----------



## skupples

Should definitely go down to your local Aquarium store to check on chiller pricing since most companies like PPC & FCPU are simply reselling aquarium units.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Does the Clear Primochill Primoflex Adv LRT have the clouding issues after a few months use like the other brands?


I don't believe so. I went with the advanced LRT tubing after everything I read because they don't use a certain chemical(s) when manufacturing it, making it less prone to clouding.


----------



## Raul-7

Really good chiller here.

I used to breed fish, so I know.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Does the Clear Primochill Primoflex Adv LRT have the clouding issues after a few months use like the other brands?


It shouldn't. Also check out Tygon clear. Supposedly better than LRT ADV.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Really good chiller here.
> 
> I used to breed fish, so I know.


how hard would it be to hook up one of those to a liquid cooling loop? thinking of doing a pc build in my tv stand and I could use that. would it also go cold enough towards i'd need to insulate ?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> how hard would it be to hook up one of those to a liquid cooling loop? thinking of doing a pc build in my tv stand and I could use that. would it also go cold enough towards i'd need to insulate ?


I think all you would need is a 1" to 1/4" NPT adapter but I may be mistaken. The flowrates need to be checked as well. But there's also this in there:
Quote:


> Flow thru tube in shell with Titanium heat exchanger
> 
> The Heat Exchanger is made of Grade 2 Titanium with PVC shell
> This chiller is specifically made for salt water reef tanks
> No copper touches the Salt Water
> Min Flow rate is 500 GPH the MAX is 2000 GPH
> Up to 400 Gallon Fish Tank


----------



## skupples

Most quality chillers should be able to replace the need for any other pumps.


----------



## Raul-7

You can use a heat exchanger to have 2 loops. One for the chiller and one for your PC loop.

That way you can run the chiller at 500GPH and the PC loop at your desired GPM.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> You can use a heat exchanger to have 2 loops. One for the chiller and one for your PC loop.


I would love to add a chiller, but my main worry is the usual. Condensation. I live in Florida, & my office is almost always 80-85F... Yes, even with the AC set to 75.


----------



## Raul-7

Depends on how cool you want your water? If it's at 22-25C it shouldn't be a problem.

That's why I would have a large reservoir for the chiller, like a 50G barrel. Then use the heat exchanger to connect the 2 loops, that way it won't overwork the chiller.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I don't believe so. I went with the advanced LRT tubing after everything I read because they don't use a certain chemical(s) when manufacturing it, making it less prone to clouding.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It shouldn't. Also check out Tygon clear. Supposedly better than LRT ADV.


Ight thanks guys


----------



## derickwm

Building your own is the best route


----------



## VSG

Says the guy waiting for someone else to make him a chiller.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Paying someone to build your own is the best route


Agreed.


----------



## derickwm

Leave me alone :|


----------



## The Storm

I am looking for a mounting bracket that will allow me to mount my mcp35x to the side of case. It has the heat sink and fan with the rubber footed standoffs. I would like it to mount just like I have my current d5 with the EK xres with the mounting system. I see EK sells the DDC mount but im not sure it factors in the heatsink and fan. Here is the pump setup.


And I would like to mount it just like this is. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> And I would like to mount it just like this is. Anyone have any ideas?


It's kind of hard to tell how the assembly is mounted to the case in that photo. Do you have a better picture of it?


----------



## LiquidHaus

I have a shot of what he's referring to.



90 degree bracket but with the bottom side bare so that a ddc heatsink/fan can also be added.

did EK not make this clear? haven't checked about the ddc variant..


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's kind of hard to tell how the assembly is mounted to the case in that photo. Do you have a better picture of it?


Sure, these are what I've got on my phone, unfortunately I'm at work. I also have some on my rig photos I believe.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I have a shot of what he's referring to.
> 
> 
> 
> 90 degree bracket but with the bottom side bare so that a ddc heatsink/fan can also be added.
> 
> did EK not make this clear? haven't checked about the ddc variant..


Yes a bracket just like that but is big enough and has the mounting holes lined up for a heat sink and fan.


----------



## Nilin404

My water cooled rig.


----------



## sinnedone

Very nice.

Good work Nilin404


----------



## Nilin404

Thank you so much. Nearly finish and I like the way its turning out so far. I still have to paint the ram orange and change the blue led to orange on xspc cpu block.


----------



## Janac

Is this very very bad? There is copper exposed... I know it's ok to use it probably just wondering...


----------



## nismoskyline

I wouldn't use that block if you have other nickle blocks in your loop, it will corrode them as well. As for using it on it's own, i'd either get the nickle re-done or just have it taken off completely, (should just leave you with a copper block, from what i've seen the nickle plating is horribly thin). if you do nothing it will only get worse.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Is this very very bad? There is copper exposed... I know it's ok to use it probably just wondering...


How did this happen!?


----------



## Janac

Bought it used.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*






Is this very very bad? There is copper exposed... I know it's ok to use it probably just wondering...

What model is that CPU block?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this very very bad? There is copper exposed... I know it's ok to use it probably just wondering...


The big question is what coolant were you using? And what had you used to initially clean your loop?


----------



## lowfat

Polish the block w/ some metal polish. It probably isn't anywhere near as bad as it looks.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this very very bad? There is copper exposed... I know it's ok to use it probably just wondering...
> 
> What model is that CPU block?
Click to expand...

EK -FC7970 with EN- electroless Nickel-Plating.

And I don't know what he was using... I am going to ask him.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> You can use a heat exchanger to have 2 loops. One for the chiller and one for your PC loop.
> 
> That way you can run the chiller at 500GPH and the PC loop at your desired GPM.


I've been looking into this chiller thing a good bit more, and I'm going to go with the exchanger and cascaded loops.

I'm going to migrate my M4E-Z / 2700K from its Phantom case to an NZXT P820, since I have one sitting around waiting for something to put in it. It's not got all that much rad space, but I'll go with a simple 360 up top for the hot loop, probably using a dual 35X single bay res, seriesed with the exchanger and its pumps, I have a pair of PWM D5s handy, set up where a lower 240/280 would normally go, for the cold loop.

I'll use an Aquaero 6 to monitor temps and kick in the chiller loop on the cold side of the exchanger when hot side delta t gets too high, as well as manage the pump speeds and fans.

That should keep the chiller normally off, just running on a basic loop, until I'm doing enough to need the extra cooling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> You can use a heat exchanger to have 2 loops. One for the chiller and one for your PC loop.
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to add a chiller, but my main worry is the usual. Condensation. I live in Florida, & my office is almost always 80-85F... Yes, even with the AC set to 75.
Click to expand...

I'm in the Caribbean, so it's even hotter here for more of the year, . . . . but the humidity fluctuates a lot, so I may need to nerd out and build myself a little weather station to measure ambient temp and humidity to derive the dew point, to control the chiller for peak cooling capacity without condensation worries. . . . . . or I could just use conservative basics and let the Aquaero manage things.

Darlene


----------



## doginpants12

My build is complete, for now...


----------



## SinatraFan

A question to the gang here...

What seems to be the preference on hard tubing... PRIMOCHILL, MONSOON, or other?

I only ask because my first build was with Primochill and I have to say there was some problems with size variances. I'm working on another build as I'm nearly done with my Death Star build and want to order tubing soon.

Thanks


----------



## skupples

guy said it is a used block.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> guy said it is a used block.


I said I bought it used. Therefore how could I know what were they doing with it...

What's wrong with that?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> I said I bought it used. Therefore how could I know what were they doing with it...
> 
> What's wrong with that?


That was my point. People keep asking you questions that you can not answer, as you stated it was acquired USED.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Bought it used.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That was my point. People keep asking you questions that you can not answer, as you stated it was acquired USED.


I know right.. ahahah.. Anyway, I know back a few years ago EK had nickel flaking issues. But to the OP, if you don't mind nickel floating around your loop then it should be fine. Might get stuck or plug your CPU and GPU block.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> I know right.. ahahah.. Anyway, I know back a few years ago EK and nickel flaking issues. But to the OP, if you don't mind nickel floating around your loop then it should be fine. Might get stuck or plug your CPU and GPU block.


eh, just wash it in a bath of hot vinegar. That should strip off allot of the already weakened nickel.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> A question to the gang here...
> 
> What seems to be the preference on hard tubing... PRIMOCHILL, MONSOON, or other?
> 
> I only ask because my first build was with Primochill and I have to say there was some problems with size variances. I'm working on another build as I'm nearly done with my Death Star build and want to order tubing soon.
> 
> Thanks


for me, I use Metric E22 or EK hard tubing because I really don't like Primochill and Mooson hard fittings
EK or Bitspower,


----------



## Janac

I got the info...previous owner used this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-uv-blue-premix-1000ml.html


----------



## Janac

What that means, Nickel plating is still horrible after 2011 incident. And my block is with EN- Electroless Nickel Platting certificate.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> What that means, Nickel plating is still horrible after 2011 incident. And my block is with EN- Electroless Nickel Platting certificate.


Possibly, but even low quality nickel can be properly cared for. So my opinion would be we don't really know, but it is possible lack of care lead to the corrosion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> A question to the gang here...
> 
> What seems to be the preference on hard tubing... PRIMOCHILL, MONSOON, or other?
> 
> I only ask because my first build was with Primochill and I have to say there was some problems with size variances. I'm working on another build as I'm nearly done with my Death Star build and want to order tubing soon.
> 
> Thanks


E22 and Bitspower fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> What that means, Nickel plating is still horrible after 2011 incident. And my block is with EN- Electroless Nickel Platting certificate.


And how was this block stored? Did the previous owner take the time to dry everything before slinging in the back of the cupboard?

I still say 4 microns is not enough tho......


----------



## The Storm

The D5 uni holder from EK works perfect for an mcp35x with fan and heatsink, the mounting holes line up. All I did was turn the rubber feet upside down for a little dampening.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I still say 4 microns is not enough tho......


How did you get this number? 4 microns seems plenty where I am coming from. We coat 10-20 nm for most applications, and 250-500 nm for a hard coat. Of course the applications and test conditions are completely different.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys Ive been trying to decide which Radiators to use with my build which to which a really care about the looks, at first i was going to go with HWlab new "Nemesis" line but the more i look at the textured finish on those rads, the more i dislike it, so im still really on the fence about getting them. I was looking at the EK-CoolStream PE radiators and i think they look pretty cool with the casing, tried to find reviews and stuff, not much on the internet involving these rads.

Are the EK-CoolStream PE radiators good? If yes what would be the optimum rpm fans, could i get away with 1000rpm NB-eLoops or would i have to go for something like the 1800rpm NB-eLoops?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That was my point. People keep asking you questions that you can not answer, as you stated it was acquired USED.


Skupples, don't get your acrylic tubes in a twist







This thread updates so quickly that a lot of us missed the 'used' comment and were just trying to help.


----------



## jtom320

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys Ive been trying to decide which Radiators to use with my build which to which a really care about the looks, at first i was going to go with HWlab new "Nemesis" line but the more i look at the textured finish on those rads, the more i dislike it, so im still really on the fence about getting them. I was looking at the EK-CoolStream PE radiators and i think they look pretty cool with the casing, tried to find reviews and stuff, not much on the internet involving these rads.
> 
> Are the EK-CoolStream PE radiators good? If yes what would be the optimum rpm fans, could i get away with 1000rpm NB-eLoops or would i have to go for something like the 1800rpm NB-eLoops?


The XTX from EK is better. As is most of the Alphacool line. The thinner EK is not bad by any means though. In fact most radiators are only seperated by the thinnest of lines.

It really depends on your space though in terms of what is recomended. XSPC has some pretty excellent radiators on the market right now as well.

In terms of fans aren't the E-Loops PWM? I'd get the higher RPM model if that were the case and just set it up to run low. THat way you have the head room if you need it.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> .
> The XTX from EK is better. As is most of the Alphacool line. The thinner EK is not bad by any means though. In fact most radiators are only seperated by the thinnest of lines.
> 
> It really depends on your space though in terms of what is recomended. XSPC has some pretty excellent radiators on the market right now as well.
> 
> In terms of fans aren't the E-Loops PWM? I'd get the higher RPM model if that were the case and just set it up to run low. THat way you have the head room if you need it.


I'm really don't care for the XTX or he Alphacool stuff... I'm either going for the Nemesis or the EK PE would prefer the PE for the looks if the difference in performance is within a couple degrees give or take performance wise..

Would two EK PE 240s be more then enough for 4790k and SLI 780ti's ? I might be able to fit a bigger HWlab GTX line but like I said I like the looks of the PE and if that's enough for what I wanna cool il still with them.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> .
> In terms of fans aren't the E-Loops PWM? I'd get the higher RPM model if that were the case and just set it up to run low. THat way you have the head room if you need it.


The eLoops have a bunch of different 3 pin models with varying speed, as well as a PWM version that combines all the speeds into one fan.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> .
> In terms of fans aren't the E-Loops PWM? I'd get the higher RPM model if that were the case and just set it up to run low. THat way you have the head room if you need it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> The eLoops have a bunch of different 3 pin models with varying speed, as well as a PWM version that combines all the speeds into one fan.


I was looking at the Phobya versions which don't seem to have PWM options like Noiseblockers do


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I'm really don't care for the XTX or he Alphacool stuff... I'm either going for the Nemesis or the EK PE would prefer the PE for the looks if the difference in performance is within a couple degrees give or take performance wise..
> 
> Would two EK PE 240s be more then enough for 4790k and SLI 780ti's ? I might be able to fit a bigger HWlab GTX line but like I said I like the looks of the PE and if that's enough for what I wanna cool il still with them.


It will cool them. But you will probably have temps near 60 on your GPUs.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Uploading some EK-goodness!











This system/loop consists of:

8x EK-PSC 90 degree angle Silver Shining
9x EK-PSC 45 degree angle Silver Shining
EK-FB ASUS R4BE Acetal+Nickel
EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ Full Nickel with Elite bracket (Nickelplated?)
2x EK-DOMINATOR X4 Nickel Plexi with Acetal Clean CSQ tops
4x EK-FC R9 290X Acetal+Nickel
4x EK-FC R9 290X Black Backplate
EK-FC Terminal, Quad, Semi Parallell Black
14x Bitspower Multi-Link Adapter 12 mm Silver Shining
About 1 meter of Nickel-Plated Copper tubing


----------



## sinnedone

Looking good Gobigorgohome


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Are the EK-CoolStream PE radiators good? If yes what would be the optimum rpm fans, could i get away with 1000rpm NB-eLoops or would i have to go for something like the 1800rpm NB-eLoops?


I have PE240+PE120 and eLoops. I found up to 1200rpm makes a pleasant sound through the rad. Any higher and it starts to drone a bit. Get the PWM eLoops so you can fine-tune the noise to your own sensitivity


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> The D5 uni holder from EK works perfect for an mcp35x with fan and heatsink, the mounting holes line
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> up. All I did was turn the rubber feet upside down for a little dampening.


I picked up the dual heatsink for MCP35x2 & two fans, but it is so huuuuuuuuuuuge. So huge I didn't even use it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Skupples, don't get your acrylic tubes in a twist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thread updates so quickly that a lot of us missed the 'used' comment and were just trying to help.


I can't even bend LRT properly.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I can't even bend LRT properly.


Hahaha all I have left to do are the bends in the acrylic and I'll finally be done. Needless to say I'm a bit intimidated.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I have PE240+PE120 and eLoops. I found up to 1200rpm makes a pleasant sound through the rad. Any higher and it starts to drone a bit. Get the PWM eLoops so you can fine-tune the noise to your own sensitivity


I thought they only had that issue in Pull config?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> It will cool them. But you will probably have temps near 60 on your GPUs.


Hmmm maybe il just stick with the thicker HWlabs..


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Hahaha all I have left to do are the bends in the acrylic and I'll finally be done. Needless to say I'm a bit intimidated.


Practice makes perfect man, it's honestly not that hard. The only things I'll say is get a good stiff silicone rod (I didn't use the one in the Monsoon kit), and don't turn your heatgun on full blast. I made so many tubes bubble doing that with my gun







and you definitely should post pics once you're done









-Zepp


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I still say 4 microns is not enough tho......
> 
> 
> 
> How did you get this number? 4 microns seems plenty where I am coming from. We coat 10-20 nm for most applications, and 250-500 nm for a hard coat. Of course the applications and test conditions are completely different.
Click to expand...

Its the number that was found to be EK's plating thickness thru independent testing. Nickel needs to be a minimum of 12-14microns for corrosion protection.

Quickset,just buy your Nemesis rads from a euro reseller. The Euro version is a satin black finish rather than the Dark Matter finish.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I thought they only had that issue in Pull config?
> Hmmm maybe il just stick with the thicker HWlabs..


Sorry, perhaps I shouldn't have used the word "drone" maybe "hum" would have been better. But I'm not talking about the infamous pull issue (which is _not_ an issue on PE240s because of the built in shroud). I'm just talking about a normal change in tone of fans on a rad when their speed is increased. I happened to find 1200rpm gives a comfortable sound for prolonged use.

Of course it's entirely subjective - YMMV


----------



## mus1mus

which would you prefer by the way?

hum or whine?


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hmmm maybe il just stick with the thicker HWlabs..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quickset,just buy your Nemesis rads from a euro reseller. The Euro version is a satin black finish rather than the Dark Matter finish.


^This +1



^dark matter -1


----------



## failwheeldrive

Wish I knew there was a satin option... I hate the finish on my Nemesis rads. Plus their packaging it garbage, so it always ends up scuffed like crazy by the time it's delivered.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Wish I knew there was a satin option... I hate the finish on my Nemesis rads. *Plus their packaging it garbage*, so it always ends up scuffed like crazy by the time it's delivered.


Definitely. Mine arrived in near perfect condition thanks to PPCS packaging but the HWLabs box itself had me thinking I got a used rad at first inspection.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Definitely. Mine arrived in near perfect condition thanks to PPCS packaging but the HWLabs box itself had me thinking I got a used rad at first inspection.


You got lucky man. I ordered both of my 360gtxs from PPCs, and while they did a great job of packaging the rad one of them is still majorly torn up lol. The other one only has a few minor scuffs though. It just blows my mind that Hardware Labs can charge this much for rads and then stick them in cardboard boxes with zero bubble/foam wrap.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quickset,just buy your Nemesis rads from a euro reseller. The Euro version is a satin black finish rather than the Dark Matter finish.


This would fix my issue 100%, if I can't find them on ebay can you list a couple euro store that would ship to canada?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Sorry, perhaps I shouldn't have used the word "drone" maybe "hum" would have been better. But I'm not talking about the infamous pull issue (which is _not_ an issue on PE240s because of the built in shroud). I'm just talking about a normal change in tone of fans on a rad when their speed is increased. I happened to find 1200rpm gives a comfortable sound for prolonged use.
> 
> Of course it's entirely subjective - YMMV


Well when i owned AP15s i ran them at the full 1850RPM and they made a humming noise that was at perfect frequincy that didn't bother me , so is this Hum you refer to a similar sound?

For the black Phobya eLoops I have a choice of either 1000RPMs and 1800RPMs... (No PWM option for Phobya)

Would the Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PL-2s be a better option over the eLoops? Just looking for a good all black fan that isn't a corsair SP120


----------



## royce5950

I like the look of the EK coolstreamPE rads... Nice and modern. Classy if you will.


----------



## cstkl1

Buy direct from hwlabs. Their packaging was good .


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> Buy direct from hwlabs. Their packaging was good .


Do they use any bubble wrap or foam padding inside the actual radiator box? Because every HWlabs rad I've purchased has just come in the cardboard box without any additional padding.


----------



## cyphon

Mayhems has been talking bout a new line of rads he will be releasing in the next month or so. These rads are quad pass and will be available in 240 and 360 flavors.

He also just released a test pic and info on a 480 version:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Marketing Bump for the 480 mm
> 
> *Mayhems Havoc 480 mm Radiator*
> 
> 
> Quad Reflow Chamber
> Triple Tubed
> Split fin
> Medium FPI (12)
> Copper Core
> Brass End Tanks
> 125mm x 63mm x 520mm (Width x Depth x Height)
> Matt Black Coated
> 2 Port
> RoHS Compliant
> Includes a Mayhems Mini Blitz kit (part 2 only)
> Mayhems Havoc Radiators utilises a triple tubed split fin system that allows for a much more effective air flow to aid in the removal of heat. The Havoc range of Radiators also incorporates our quad reflow chamber allowing the coolants to remain in the radiator for a longer period of time for excessive heat to be dissipated. Both of these technology's help remove upwards of 25% more heat compared to standard radiator's and upwards of 10% for more advanced systems.


Image is a bare test unit, these should get a black finish like most rads


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Do they use any bubble wrap or foam padding inside the actual radiator box? Because every HWlabs rad I've purchased has just come in the cardboard box without any additional padding.


Hwlabs used like a u shape very thick cardbox to protect the rads box package. My fins etc all are fine. Not a single one was out of shape on all 4 rads. Its the courier box package that i am talking about. He did a lot of care. The issue with buying from retailers is .. From hwlabs to them shld be fine. The stocking, shelving n reposting lots of things can happen here. More hands .. More things to go wrong. Same issue when i bought my thermochill like a decade ago. Bought direct not issue. Hence when it comes to radiators.. I buy direct.


----------



## failwheeldrive

I see what you're saying. Buying direct may cut down on the chances of the paint getting scuffed up. No matter what though, if there isn't any protection except a cardboard box then it's likely the rad is going to get beat up in transit, especially since is being shipped overseas.

I still think that HWlabs can afford to stick some bubble wrap or foam padding in their boxes to protect their stuff... it's a $135 radiator after all. Even alphacool does that with their lower end rads.


----------



## Wanou

Hi guys,

This is the watercooled rig i just finished !
Build log here : Milk project

*Cooling parts:*

Cooling kit EVGA Hardon Hydro kit (I kept only the fittings and the Rad, the pump and res have been discarded)
XSPC Acrylic Tank Reservoir for Laing DDC
Swiftech MCP35X Pump for PC Liquid Cooling Systems
GPU waterblock EK-FC780 GTX - Nickel (Original CSQ)
HD acrylic from EK
Bitspower Multi Link fittings
Coolant Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid White Color


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quickset,just buy your Nemesis rads from a euro reseller. The Euro version is a satin black finish rather than the Dark Matter finish.
> 
> 
> 
> This would fix my issue 100%, if I can't find them on ebay can you list a couple euro store that would ship to canada?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Sorry, perhaps I shouldn't have used the word "drone" maybe "hum" would have been better. But I'm not talking about the infamous pull issue (which is _not_ an issue on PE240s because of the built in shroud). I'm just talking about a normal change in tone of fans on a rad when their speed is increased. I happened to find 1200rpm gives a comfortable sound for prolonged use.
> 
> Of course it's entirely subjective - YMMV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well when i owned AP15s i ran them at the full 1850RPM and they made a humming noise that was at perfect frequincy that didn't bother me , so is this Hum you refer to a similar sound?
> 
> For the black Phobya eLoops I have a choice of either 1000RPMs and 1800RPMs... (No PWM option for Phobya)
> 
> Would the Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PL-2s be a better option over the eLoops? Just looking for a good all black fan that isn't a corsair SP120
Click to expand...

Specialtech.co.uk...put in the notes B NEG sent you. Register for non EU pricing. Register on forum for free/reduced shipping


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Mayhems has been talking bout a new line of rads he will be releasing in the next month or so. These rads are quad pass and will be available in 240 and 360 flavors.
> 
> He also just released a test pic and info on a 480 version:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Marketing Bump for the 480 mm
> 
> *Mayhems Havoc 480 mm Radiator*
> 
> 
> Quad Reflow Chamber
> Triple Tubed
> Split fin
> Medium FPI (12)
> Copper Core
> Brass End Tanks
> 125mm x 63mm x 520mm (Width x Depth x Height)
> Matt Black Coated
> 2 Port
> RoHS Compliant
> Includes a Mayhems Mini Blitz kit (part 2 only)
> Mayhems Havoc Radiators utilises a triple tubed split fin system that allows for a much more effective air flow to aid in the removal of heat. The Havoc range of Radiators also incorporates our quad reflow chamber allowing the coolants to remain in the radiator for a longer period of time for excessive heat to be dissipated. Both of these technology's help remove upwards of 25% more heat compared to standard radiator's and upwards of 10% for more advanced systems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Image is a bare test unit, these should get a black finish like most rads
Click to expand...

I had one of the original rads from him nearly 2 years ago...just before XSPC found out he infringed on some patents.
Good rad tho,cooled better than the GTX I had a similar fan speeds.
Although,its worth pointing out that the water doesn't stay in the rad longer as flow rate is increased with the narrower transit path.


----------



## max883




----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Do they use any bubble wrap or foam padding inside the actual radiator box? Because every HWlabs rad I've purchased has just come in the cardboard box without any additional padding.


This. Then NCIX just shipped my SR1 540 without any additional packaging.


----------



## Fidelitas

How much and where I can I get one?


----------



## cennis

If I connected a asetek water block/pump (like from a AIO cooler) to a loop with a D5, should I still keep the asetek pump running along side the d5?

also, it has 1/4 ID barbs, will that be more restrictive than a supremacy to become a bottleneck in flow?

rest of my loop is 3/8 ID


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I had one of the original rads from him nearly 2 years ago...just before XSPC found out he infringed on some patents.
> Good rad tho,cooled better than the GTX I had a similar fan speeds.
> Although,its worth pointing out that the water doesn't stay in the rad longer as flow rate is increased with the narrower transit path.


Yeah, I heard about that and I think some of the same type of accusations are coming up a little bit as he approaches entering the market. He put out a statement yesterday about it being all custom tooling for Mayhems specifically and what not.

The independent tester's have a 10-25% performance increase I think I saw.


----------



## VSG

So about those Alphacool hardline tubing/fittings, they are now up for sale on Aquatuning

The size is 10/13mm so it is metric and completely different to anything else out there. The chrome tubing is about 5x the cost of the plexi tubing as well. The unique size combined with the short tubing lengths has me convinced they are looking to offer a non bend, more fittings solution here.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking good Gobigorgohome


Thank you very much!


----------



## IT Diva

Anyone have the PPC's, "End of Summer" discount codes handy?

I lost track of it, but for 10% off on orders over a $1000, and almost twice that in my cart for my chiller/exchanger project . . . I could sure use the break to help out on the shipping , . . . . .

I want to get this order in today, before the codes expire.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Anyone have the PPC's, "End of Summer" discount codes handy?
> 
> I lost track of it, but for 10% off on orders over a $1000, and almost twice that in my cart for my chiller/exchanger project . . . I could sure use the break to help out on the shipping , . . . . .
> 
> I want to get this order in today, before the codes expire.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


Spend $50-500, get 8% off: "SUMMER14-8"
Spend $501-1000 get 9% off: "SUMMER14-9"
Spend over $1000 get 10% off: "SUMMER14-10"


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks . .

That was super quick.

Got my order in, but since the chiller was already "on sale", it didn't take another 10% off of that item.

Still saved about enough to pay all the shipping though, right at $150.

Wooo Hoooooo . . . . I love new projects . .

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks . .
> 
> That was super quick.
> 
> Got my order in, but since the chiller was already "on sale", it didn't take another 10% off of that item.
> 
> Still saved about enough to pay all the shipping though, right at $150.
> 
> Wooo Hoooooo . . . . I love new projects . .
> 
> Darlene


You went with the Hailea then? I look forward to the build log, I eventually want to get a chiller as well.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> This is the watercooled rig i just finished !
> Build log here : Milk project
> 
> *Cooling parts:*
> 
> Cooling kit EVGA Hardon Hydro kit (I kept only the fittings and the Rad, the pump and res have been discarded)
> XSPC Acrylic Tank Reservoir for Laing DDC
> Swiftech MCP35X Pump for PC Liquid Cooling Systems
> GPU waterblock EK-FC780 GTX - Nickel (Original CSQ)
> HD acrylic from EK
> Bitspower Multi Link fittings
> Coolant Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid White Color
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures


Excellent job! Looks really clean


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks . .
> 
> That was super quick.
> 
> Got my order in, but since the chiller was already "on sale", it didn't take another 10% off of that item.
> 
> Still saved about enough to pay all the shipping though, right at $150.
> 
> Wooo Hoooooo . . . . I love new projects . .
> 
> Darlene


And soon you will start to finish them,yes?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks . .
> 
> That was super quick.
> 
> Got my order in, but since the chiller was already "on sale", it didn't take another 10% off of that item.
> 
> Still saved about enough to pay all the shipping though, right at $150.
> 
> Wooo Hoooooo . . . . I love new projects . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> And soon you will start to finish them,yes?
Click to expand...

Rather a snarky remark without any provocation on my part, don't you think, . . . . though not exactly untrue from a short time perspective.

Ohhhh, and yes, . . . . . They'll all end up finished . . . as other newer ones, yet unimagined, become the unfinished ones. There's always an ongoing cycle of projects for me.

That's one of the luxuries of getting old . . I no longer hold myself to arbitrary deadlines on the things that I do solely for my own enjoyment.

I work on projects as my interest in them ebbs and flows, computers certainly not being my only interest, and branch out into new ones when a keen interest manifests itself.

Darlene


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> This would fix my issue 100%, if I can't find them on ebay can you list a couple euro store that would ship to canada?
> Well when i owned AP15s i ran them at the full 1850RPM and they made a humming noise that was at perfect frequincy that didn't bother me , so is this Hum you refer to a similar sound?
> 
> For the black Phobya eLoops I have a choice of either 1000RPMs and 1800RPMs... (No PWM option for Phobya)
> 
> Would the Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PL-2s be a better option over the eLoops? Just looking for a good all black fan that isn't a corsair SP120


Pretty sure Caseking.de ships world wide, but it'll probably take a bit longer to arrive and maybe get stopped at customs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks . .
> 
> That was super quick.
> 
> Got my order in, but since the chiller was already "on sale", it didn't take another 10% off of that item.
> 
> Still saved about enough to pay all the shipping though, right at $150.
> 
> Wooo Hoooooo . . . . I love new projects . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> And soon you will start to finish them,yes?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Rather a snarky remark without any provocation on my part, don't you think, . . . . though not exactly untrue from a short time perspective.
> 
> Ohhhh, and yes, . . . . . They'll all end up finished . . . as other newer ones, yet unimagined, become the unfinished ones. There's always an ongoing cycle of projects for me.
> 
> That's one of the luxuries of getting old . . I no longer hold myself to arbitrary deadlines on the things that I do solely for my own enjoyment.
> 
> I work on projects as my interest in them ebbs and flows, computers certainly not being my only interest, and branch out into new ones when a keen interest manifests itself.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Dont be so precious,its just banter.

And im far from young myself.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> I had one of the original rads from him nearly 2 years ago...just before XSPC found out he infringed on some patents.
> Good rad tho,cooled better than the GTX I had a similar fan speeds.
> Although,its worth pointing out that the water doesn't stay in the rad longer as flow rate is increased with the narrower transit path.


Erm We (Mayhems) never infringed on any alleged patent or any copyright. Simply put it is quite in depth what happened and left a bad taste on both ours and XSPC mouths and i am sure both XSPC and us do not wish to drag each other names though the mud for no reason what so ever.. How ever we've learned (important) lessons in how not to deal with certain situations and the proper way of doing things







. Times have moved on and yeah the past has seemingly reared its ugly head how ever im sure we can sort any issues like responsable companies that both of us are. At the end of the day both Companies have changed and are innovating in different ways to benefit the users as a whole with in the water cooling community and there is no reason for "MAD" to be committed by either of us.









To add to this both me and paul are talking (xspc) and sorting things out.


----------



## skupples

Dat square build! Very nicely done!

Mayhem's pissing off other companies in the industry? NO WAY!

By the way... I swear X1 based coolant evaps faster than anything I have ever used. Must by that whiskey additive.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I had one of the original rads from him nearly 2 years ago...just before XSPC found out he infringed on some patents.
> Good rad tho,cooled better than the GTX I had a similar fan speeds.
> Although,its worth pointing out that the water doesn't stay in the rad longer as flow rate is increased with the narrower transit path.
> 
> 
> 
> Erm We (Mayhems) never infringed on any alleged patent or any copyright. Simply put it is quite in depth what happened and left a bad taste on both ours and XSPC mouths and i am sure both XSPC and us do not wish to drag each other names though the mud for no reason what so ever.. How ever we've learned (important) lessons in how not to deal with certain situations and the proper way of doing things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Times have moved on and yeah the past has seemingly reared its ugly head how ever im sure we can sort any issues like responsable companies that both of us are. At the end of the day both Companies have changed and are innovating in different ways to benefit the users as a whole with in the water cooling community and there is no reason for "MAD" to be committed by either of us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To add to this both me and paul are talking (xspc) and sorting things out.
Click to expand...

I know what happened Mick,I was there remember?
They were reworked Thermochill rads,XSPC bought Thermochill some time ago.

The fallout from that is neither here nor there Mick,if you are sorting things out with Paul then good stuff,not that it matters to me either way and its not really relevant here.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know what happened Mick,I was there remember?
> *They were reworked Thermochill rads,XSPC bought Thermochill some time ago.*
> 
> The fallout from that is neither here nor there Mick,if you are sorting things out with Paul then good stuff,not that it matters to me either way and its not really relevant here.


I had no idea that happened.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> This is the watercooled rig i just finished !


Really clean look, impressive!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> This is the watercooled rig i just finished !
> Build log here : Milk project
> 
> *Cooling parts:*
> 
> Cooling kit EVGA Hardon Hydro kit (I kept only the fittings and the Rad, the pump and res have been discarded)
> XSPC Acrylic Tank Reservoir for Laing DDC
> Swiftech MCP35X Pump for PC Liquid Cooling Systems
> GPU waterblock EK-FC780 GTX - Nickel (Original CSQ)
> HD acrylic from EK
> Bitspower Multi Link fittings
> Coolant Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid White Color
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ryanallan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> This is the watercooled rig i just finished !
> Build log here : Milk project


Nicely done!
Nice selection and mounting of the pump / res.

What size of radiator are you running?
And
Where is the power supply in that case?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> Nicely done!
> Nice selection and mounting of the pump / res.
> 
> What size of radiator are you running?
> And
> Where is the power supply in that case?


Hydron has an integrated PSU if I remember correctly.


----------



## VSG

Ya, the slim long thing at the bottom is a 500w 1u PSU.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> What size of radiator are you running?


He's got the integrated Hadron 240mm rad on top


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Guys, it's completed: *MurderMac - Completed*



-Jeffinslaw


----------



## morencyam

congrats Jeff. Very nice work. Stunning outdoor pictures too


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Guys, it's completed: *MurderMac - Completed*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Finally









It looks lovely, Jeff


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> congrats Jeff. Very nice work. Stunning outdoor pictures too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Guys, it's completed: *MurderMac - Completed*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks lovely, Jeff
Click to expand...

Thanks guys! Pop over to the build log to see all of the pictures









-Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New BP stoppers.....and a hella sexy GENE block


----------



## VSG

They got blocks for all the available z97 ROG boards in the making: http://www.overclock.net/t/1506551/bitspower-facebook-bit-tech-bitspower-reveals-full-cover-waterblocks-for-asus-rog-boards/0_50


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just waiting for a block for my soc force board, other than the raystorm I have on my chip already


----------



## jpetrach

I would love to get a full block for my Gene VI. Motherboard!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just waiting for a block for my soc force board, other than the raystorm I have on my chip already


*EK* has a full board coming for the soc force. Z97 that is. Supposed to be the 25th of this month.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I am looking for a mounting bracket that will allow me to mount my mcp35x to the side of case. It has the heat sink and fan with the rubber footed standoffs. I would like it to mount just like I have my current d5 with the EK xres with the mounting system. I see EK sells the DDC mount but im not sure it factors in the heatsink and fan. Here is the pump setup.
> 
> 
> And I would like to mount it just like this is. Anyone have any ideas?


How about bottom mounting vs mounting to the side.

1" in length


http://www.karlssonrobotics.com/cart/Standoff-Aluminum-Threaded-6-32-1/?gclid=CMvo8u3QhsACFZTm7AodjiYAvg

Along with these.

1.75" in length


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_236&products_id=28298

The standoffs have the same thread pitch as the fan screws and offer enough space for the fan to intake. Not sure if those specific fan screws would be long enough to go through the fan and into the heatsink, so you may need to search for longer screws. You can also still use the rubber spacers for vibration purposes. Best of all it's a very cost effective solution.

Just an alternative I wanted to share with you.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilin404*
> 
> My water cooled rig.


And a fine rig it is..







wow nice work man!!


----------



## lowfat

Any guesses on how something like this would perform?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Hahaha all I have left to do are the bends in the acrylic and I'll finally be done. Needless to say I'm a bit intimidated.


I was too bud. Got a little discouraged even. I had to order more tubing to finish my loop. Don't give up though. It'll be totally worth it once you find a good method. Hang in there.


----------



## Gabrielzm

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="lowfat" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/71430#post_22686771"]Any guesses on how something like this would perform?



















[/quote]

at low rpm I think would do fine. What fan is that? I am looking for a really low profile 120 mm fan, preferably under 12 mm.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Any guesses on how something like this would perform?






Man, when something looks that radical in a sea of normal box-framed fans, who cares how it performs?







I'm assuming it's a 120mm fan on a 140mm adapter?

-Zepp


----------



## morencyam

it looks like you removed the fan motor and blades from a 120mm fan and mounted it on the inside of a 140mm adapter?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Any guesses on how something like this would perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at low rpm I think would do fine. What fan is that? I am looking for a really low profile 120 mm fan, preferably under 12 mm.
Click to expand...

It looks really cool, but more than 12mm?

I needed a 12mm fan for a tight application and found this:

It's 47 CFM. The Static pressure is not very high at all, but when it is supporting the high SP fan pulling on the other side makes a distinct performance difference of the rad. not as cool looking , but it is 12mm and fits .


----------



## morencyam

I know Gelid and Phobya make a couple low profile fans that could work.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> at low rpm I think would do fine. What fan is that? I am looking for a really low profile 120 mm fan, preferably under 12 mm.


It is just some POS Yate Loon. It is around 18mm from the fan blade to the radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> It looks really cool, but more than 12mm?
> I needed a 12mm fan for a tight application and found this:


Sorry more than 12mm. The 140mm adapter itself is 13mm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> Man, when something looks that radical in a sea of normal box-framed fans, who cares how it performs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming it's a 120mm fan on a 140mm adapter?
> 
> -Zepp


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> it looks like you removed the fan motor and blades from a 120mm fan and mounted it on the inside of a 140mm adapter?


Yes that is exactly what it is. I shaved down a 120mm fan then mounted it inside the adapter. It won't work w/ radiators w/ little to no shrouds though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Do the blades not hit that adapter when it's running? Doesn't look to be 0.25 of a millimeter space between them when sitting still.

Clever mod btw.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> at low rpm I think would do fine. What fan is that? I am looking for a really low profile 120 mm fan, preferably under 12 mm.
> 
> 
> 
> It is just some POS Yate Loon. It is around 18mm from the fan blade to the radiator.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> It looks really cool, but more than 12mm?
> I needed a 12mm fan for a tight application and found this:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry more than 12mm. The 140mm adapter itself is 13mm.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> Man, when something looks that radical in a sea of normal box-framed fans, who cares how it performs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming it's a 120mm fan on a 140mm adapter?
> 
> -Zepp
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> it looks like you removed the fan motor and blades from a 120mm fan and mounted it on the inside of a 140mm adapter?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes that is exactly what it is. I shaved down a 120mm fan then mounted it inside the adapter. It won't work w/ radiators w/ little to no shrouds though.
Click to expand...

Oh thats what I meant for the person needing 12mm or less. I suspected the YL was more than 12mm I was pointing out a 12mm alternative I found.









That is a cool looking alternative though. I wonder if it has any SP to speak of?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Oh thats what I meant for the person needing 12mm or less. I suspected the YL was more than 12mm I was pointing out a 12mm alternative I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a cool looking alternative though. I wonder if it has any SP to speak of?


Those you point are the Schyte slim model correct which are 12 mm exactly. Thks btw. To clarify I am thinking in putting 4 120mm low profile fans up the SMA8 normal top with 25 mm x 120 mm inside the case under the rad. So it would be a push-pull config with normal fans inside the case and really low profile above. Brfore anyone suggest I known I can order the 39 mm extended top but I do like more the looks of the normal SMA8 top.

Cheers


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> He's got the integrated Hadron 240mm rad on top


Yes that's correct. Rad is 240mm.

The PSU is at the bottom of the case. It is a Gold 80 500w.


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So about those Alphacool hardline tubing/fittings, they are now up for sale on Aquatuning
> 
> The size is 10/13mm so it is metric and completely different to anything else out there. The chrome tubing is about 5x the cost of the plexi tubing as well. The unique size combined with the short tubing lengths has me convinced they are looking to offer a non bend, more fittings solution here.


I think you might be right. I wonder how closely they tried to color match their chrome and black chrome fittings with Bitspower's silver shining and other silver g1/4 fittings. If they were smart, they would have closely color matched these. Not sure if Bitspower has similar female to female 90 degrees fittings? It would be worth a shot. May have to get it some thought myself.


----------



## VSG

Bitspower acrylic fittings are 10/12mm so it won't work with the 10/13mm tubing here. I suppose you could trim off the ends though.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Oh thats what I meant for the person needing 12mm or less. I suspected the YL was more than 12mm I was pointing out a 12mm alternative I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a cool looking alternative though. I wonder if it has any SP to speak of?
> 
> 
> 
> Those you point are the Schyte slim model correct which are 12 mm exactly. Thks btw. To clarify I am thinking in putting 4 120mm low profile fans up the SMA8 normal top with 25 mm x 120 mm inside the case under the rad. So it would be a push-pull config with normal fans inside the case and really low profile above. Brfore anyone suggest I known I can order the 39 mm extended top but I do like more the looks of the normal SMA8 top.
> 
> Cheers
Click to expand...

Yep,

Not as good looking as lowfats mod, but not too bad.

I am going to dress it up with a mod to the hub. For 12mm it actually manages to get a decent amount of air through the rad. with the High Static pressure fan pulling with the Sythe pushing, it really works well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Started playing with my Elite 130 case:


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Bitspower acrylic fittings are 10/12mm so it won't work with the 10/13mm tubing here. I suppose you could trim off the ends though.


I understand. I meant the bitspower 90 degree (g1/4 female to female ) to be used, let's call it as an extension for the lack of better word, with these fittings for the bends. Like this bitspower fitting adapter http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21900/ex-tub-2292/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Female_to_Female_Fitting_Adapter_-_Silver_BP-90DIG14.html?tl=g30c101s1306

Not sure if the color is an exact match. Also saw the alphacool 90 rotary female to female. Then again, not too crazy about their rotary fittings. May give it a shot anyway, and see how it goes ...lol


----------



## LiquidHaus

hopefully I get this thing incorporated into my rig tomorrow


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I had one of the original rads from him nearly 2 years ago...just before XSPC found out he infringed on some patents.
> Good rad tho,cooled better than the GTX I had a similar fan speeds.
> Although,its worth pointing out that the water doesn't stay in the rad longer as flow rate is increased with the narrower transit path.


The extra restriction from the quad pass system might slow flow rate, then it would genuinely keep water in it for longer.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So about those Alphacool hardline tubing/fittings, they are now up for sale on Aquatuning
> 
> The size is 10/13mm so it is metric and completely different to anything else out there. The chrome tubing is about 5x the cost of the plexi tubing as well. The unique size combined with the short tubing lengths has me convinced they are looking to offer a non bend, more fittings solution here.


13mm is just what aquatuning calls 1/2" ... it isn't actually a new size.


----------



## spikezone2004

When you guys do your cable management do you do it in a certain order? Like all case cables first, then motherboard cables, then fan cables etc.

My cable management always starts off good but by the end it seems to be a mess and just wondering if its the order I am arranging the cables. Plan on redoing all my cable management when I put in new rad and pump


----------



## cstkl1

has anybody here had ek precise mount damage their bare die cpu??


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> When you guys do your cable management do you do it in a certain order? Like all case cables first, then motherboard cables, then fan cables etc.
> 
> My cable management always starts off good but by the end it seems to be a mess and just wondering if its the order I am arranging the cables. Plan on redoing all my cable management when I put in new rad and pump


Start with the Mobo cables and get everything set in place with zip ties, then work it from there. I do one set of PCI cables at a time and ziptie them up to keep it clean. I have found that is the best way to get things setup the way you want it. It takes time but the results something you will take pride in


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Bitspower acrylic fittings are 10/12mm so it won't work with the 10/13mm tubing here. I suppose you could trim off the ends though.


This

And that 12mm OD is a tight fit with their fittings too. Anything more than manufacturing tolerance off on the 12mm tube ain't gonna work


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> has anybody here had ek precise mount damage their bare die cpu??


I delided mine here (but no EK kit) : http://www.overclock.net/t/1487000/build-sff-rig-using-the-evga-hadron-hydro/100#post_22657975

To my experience if you are gentle enough and don't over tight the mounting screws you should be safe. You actually need contact on the TIM but you don't need actual pressure. Be careful and you should be fine.


----------



## kishagi

Finally managed to so an mATX sli build with a soundcard. I feel so proud


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kishagi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally managed to so an mATX sli build with a soundcard. I feel so proud


first off.. congrats. second.. do i see some very bad air bubles? or is it the lights. and .. next step rigid tubing







will solve alot of your issues


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> When you guys do your cable management do you do it in a certain order? Like all case cables first, then motherboard cables, then fan cables etc.
> 
> My cable management always starts off good but by the end it seems to be a mess and just wondering if its the order I am arranging the cables. Plan on redoing all my cable management when I put in new rad and pump


All my cable management is done in my head long before I start throwing I start throwing most of the gear in the case.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> All my cable management is done in my head long before I start throwing I start throwing most of the gear in the case.


I try to make a plan in my head and then i start and it starts off good, but by the time i finish its gets out of hand. The inside of my case looks good its just behind the mobo I always seem to have trouble closing the rear panel no matter how many zip ties I use.

I am thinking of not using all my temp sensors on my fan controller to minimize some cables but it seems to mostly be the fans that cause a lot of havoc


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> When you guys do your cable management do you do it in a certain order? Like all case cables first, then motherboard cables, then fan cables etc.
> 
> My cable management always starts off good but by the end it seems to be a mess and just wondering if its the order I am arranging the cables. Plan on redoing all my cable management when I put in new rad and pump


I just start out with the cables that are the worst to get in, like power/reset-cables, then pretty much everything else after. In my last build I did 24-pin, 8-pin and 6-/8-pin PCI-E cables. In the end I was routing everything behind my motherboard to the PSU's. After that I did the HDD-cables with SATA-contacts and cables for my fan-controller and pumps.

I always like to "go with the natural bend" of the cables, I think that looks the best and it will look neat if you get away the most of the cables out of the way (behind the rubbergromets/motherboard and so on).

In the end there is many factors that you have to take in mind when you are manageing your cables around your case, there is type of cables, how much you want to see of the cables and which case you have. I would recommend a cube case like the Air 540 because you can pretty much do it any way and it will work out just fine because there is so much room behind the rubber gromets and behind the motherboard.









I hope that helps a bit.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> I delided mine here (but no EK kit) : http://www.overclock.net/t/1487000/build-sff-rig-using-the-evga-hadron-hydro/100#post_22657975
> 
> To my experience if you are gentle enough and don't over tight the mounting screws you should be safe. You actually need contact on the TIM but you don't need actual pressure. Be careful and you should be fine.


btw isnt it dangerous not putting some form of lacquer or nail polish to protect the vrm??
since ultra is a bit more fluid than pro..


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I try to make a plan in my head and then i start and it starts off good, but by the time i finish its gets out of hand. The inside of my case looks good its just behind the mobo I always seem to have trouble closing the rear panel no matter how many zip ties I use.
> 
> I am thinking of not using all my temp sensors on my fan controller to minimize some cables but it seems to mostly be the fans that cause a lot of havoc


In my systems I always eliminate absolutely ever cable I will not be using. That includes front panel audio, eSATA, or whatever.

As for the 120mm fan in the 140mm adapter, I haven't tried it yet. However I did test just the shaved 120mm on a 120mm radiator. Honestly the majority of the air still goes through the radiator. I couldn't feel any noticeable different in air flow when comparing the fan that still has its whole frame.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Finally got the last few things I needed to say that my loop is completed... now to get the acrylic side panel... whenever it comes back into stock...

Sorry about the quality... I took it with my HTC One M8...


----------



## jtom320

Does anyone have experience with alphacool fittings? They have a nice variety and great pricing.

I'm trying to replace my monsoon ones. I would rather not pay the bitspower premium. I need at least five 90s so it adds up quickly. That said if there is no other option I will.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with alphacool fittings? They have a nice variety and great pricing.
> 
> I'm trying to replace my monsoon ones. I would rather not pay the bitspower premium. I need at least five 90s so it adds up quickly. That said if there is no other option I will.


They can be hit or miss. Avoid their multi-rotary snake fittings. They seem to have the highest failure rate. I almost always use lower quality fittings in the nether-regions of my cases.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They can be hit or miss. Avoid their multi-rotary snake fittings. They seem to have the highest failure rate. I almost always use lower quality fittings in the nether-regions of my cases.


Gun to your head and youcan't pick bitspower or monsoon what would you use? Also need a manufacturer with a good selection of angled fittings.

Wish I didn't have to switch because fittings aren't cheap but I'd rather buy a whole new set then lose or damage a block.

I did confirm that my monsoon barbs are silver so I want them out asap. Might tear the whole thing down and leave it til I get the new fittings.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Gun to your head and youcan't pick bitspower or monsoon what would you use? Also need a manufacturer with a good selection of angled fittings.
> 
> Wish I didn't have to switch because fittings aren't cheap but I'd rather buy a whole new set then lose or damage a block.
> 
> I did confirm that my monsoon barbs are silver so I want them out asap. Might tear the whole thing down and leave it til I get the new fittings.


I would start with the non-CSQ EK Fittings. They do 90s & 45s in most generic colors. Then move onto Enzotech if you can't find what you need from EK. Enzo has extensiosn & what not for a bit cheaper than Bitspower, THEN if you can't find what you need, move onto Alphacool. I would recommend Swiftech, but I don't know if PPC & FCPU have cleared out the old, extremely prone to corrosion stock, yet.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_1295_365&sort=20a&page=2


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would start with the non-CSQ EK Fittings. They do 90s & 45s in most generic colors. Then move onto Enzotech if you can't find what you need from EK. Enzo has extensiosn & what not for a bit cheaper than Bitspower, THEN if you can't find what you need, move onto Alphacool. I would recommend Swiftech, but I don't know if PPC & FCPU have cleared out the old, extremely prone to corrosion stock, yet.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_1295_365&sort=20a&page=2


Cool. Appreciate the advice.


----------



## skupples

Just want to note, towards my comment about Swiftech fittings... It was always the finish that seemed to corrode, not the metal.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just want to note, towards my comment about Swiftech fittings... It was always the finish that seemed to corrode, not the metal.


We're using a different finish now. It appears that the one we used before had this issue in certain systems. I've never had a single problem with my original fittings though and I know of several others that never had issues either. Either way we did change the finish to prevent this issue.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're using a different finish now. It appears that the one we used before had this issue in certain systems. I've never had a single problem with my original fittings though and I know of several others that never had issues either. Either way we did change the finish to prevent this issue.


Sounds good, and as towards some having issues, and some not, sounds pretty typical. Maybe it was my 90F ambient temps that my office is always at. We call it the sweat shop. Or maybe it was Liquid utopia, though it also happened with Mayhem's X1 Clear.

What was changed in the new process? I never followed through with the kindly provided RMA.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're using a different finish now. It appears that the one we used before had this issue in certain systems. I've never had a single problem with my original fittings though and I know of several others that never had issues either. Either way we did change the finish to prevent this issue.


I actually like your fittings. Do you know if frozen or PPC is selling ones with the newer finish? Going to be ordering a whole new set this friday as well as my last rad. Between the two retailers I have no preference if one has them.


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> btw isnt it dangerous not putting some form of lacquer or nail polish to protect the vrm??
> since ultra is a bit more fluid than pro..


Not that i am aware off. The Ultra is just fine and stick to the die. I've be reading some other blogs before doing it and did not see people putting anything more than TIM. I advise you not putting any lacquer their.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Not that i am aware off. The Ultra is just fine and stick to the die. I've be reading some other blogs before doing it and did not see people putting anything more than TIM. I advise you not putting any lacquer their.


i was about to leave it be also until i saw this

http://forums.vr-zone.com/hardware-depot/3103100-msi-z97-mpower-max-ac-motherboard-delid-die-guard.html#post14195991

this guy delids a lot and u can see when he opened up his delided ( he seals back the IHS later) 4770k after 9 months .. you can see where his CLP is.. all the way to the side.

afaik clu is more fluid. hence y i ask.

btw if not lacquer.. nail polish is ok??


----------



## neSSa

my little monster


----------



## derickwm

Excellent!


----------



## neSSa

Tnx









bench table is hand made, my own, more photos...


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> i was about to leave it be also until i saw this
> 
> http://forums.vr-zone.com/hardware-depot/3103100-msi-z97-mpower-max-ac-motherboard-delid-die-guard.html#post14195991
> 
> this guy delids a lot and u can see when he opened up his delided ( he seals back the IHS later) 4770k after 9 months .. you can see where his CLP is.. all the way to the side.
> 
> afaik clu is more fluid. hence y i ask.
> 
> btw if not lacquer.. nail polish is ok??


I'm not sure. I delided only once. Maybe somebody with more experience can bring some light their.


----------



## lowfat




----------



## skupples

@Lowfat did you document that process? I'm not trying to ninja it or anything, just actually intrigued & curious by something posted in this thread for the first time, in a long time.


----------



## Wils

First time ever Water Cooling. Got cpu to 4.7. gunna get a Block for GPU later.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @Lowfat did you document that process? I'm not trying to ninja it or anything, just actually intrigued & curious by something posted in this thread for the first time, in a long time.


^ Seriously this!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @Lowfat did you document that process? I'm not trying to ninja it or anything, just actually intrigued & curious by something posted in this thread for the first time, in a long time.


I did but I missed taking pics at a couple of the stages. I'll grab then when I do the next fan.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sounds good, and as towards some having issues, and some not, sounds pretty typical. Maybe it was my 90F ambient temps that my office is always at. We call it the sweat shop. Or maybe it was Liquid utopia, though it also happened with Mayhem's X1 Clear.
> 
> What was changed in the new process? I never followed through with the kindly provided RMA.


It's a new plating that we're using that doesn't have any of the previous issues with corrosion. I'm not familiar with exactly what it is, but we haven't had any such complaints since it has been in use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I actually like your fittings. Do you know if frozen or PPC is selling ones with the newer finish? Going to be ordering a whole new set this friday as well as my last rad. Between the two retailers I have no preference if one has them.


I do believe that they should both have our fittings with the new plating. The black is now more of a gunmetal or black chrome than the previous gloss black though.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm really interested to see if there is any performance difference.


----------



## snef




----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm really interested to see if there is any performance difference.


I suspect static pressure will suffer.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm really interested to see if there is any performance difference.


Well I don't have the equipment to proper testing. However when comparing to a stock GT the airflow through the radiator didn't feel any different. Even @ 5V sufficient air was getting through the radiator.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalbard*
> 
> I suspect static pressure will suffer.


why would it?

blades geometry and speed matter for SP. Not the housing.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's a new plating that we're using that doesn't have any of the previous issues with corrosion. I'm not familiar with exactly what it is, but we haven't had any such complaints since it has been in use.
> I do believe that they should both have our fittings with the new plating. The black is now more of a gunmetal or black chrome than the previous gloss black though.


Awesome! Thx, Bram. Might have to give them a try next time I need more fittings.


----------



## sinnedone

Without a shroud around the complete fan blade airflow velocity will suffer. How much and if it will affect temperatures in the end is the question.

That said I'd take a slight hit in performance for the bling factor.


----------



## ryanallan

Got myself a new case - Raven RV05


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> *Without a shroud around the complete fan blade* airflow velocity will suffer. How much and if it will affect temperatures in the end is the question.
> 
> That said I'd take a slight hit in performance for the bling factor.


I like the way you've pointed that out








As you've seen with @lowfat's mod, there is a shroud that covers around half of the fan blades' height (don't know how to call it







)
Shrouds will direct the airflow up front the blades and not to the sides when a restriction is present. But you can have it just at the front without or with at least some part of the blades covered.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work snef!







Looking forward to the final product.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> Got myself a new case - Raven RV05
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean.







Great job man!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Signature snef build!

Love those backplates


----------



## Fidelitas

How much and where I can I get one?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


That is a work of art!


----------



## lowfat

@Unicr0nhunter @skupples
*The making of a 140mm Gentle Typhoon*


----------



## Gabrielzm

^^ Awesome job Lowfat. Thank you for that. The total height is now what 18 mm?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^ Awesome job Lowfat. Thank you for that. The total height is now what 18 mm?


18 to 20mm I'd guess. I haven't actually measured.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @Unicr0nhunter @skupples
> *The making of a 140mm Gentle Typhoon*


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryanallan*
> 
> Got myself a new case - Raven RV05
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that a mITX in this big case?

Anyway, really clean build!


----------



## LazarusIV

Need fast help please! I'm putting together my loop today, which TIM should I use? I have MX-4, IC Diamond 7, and the TIM that came with my Koolance 380A block, looks like it's called GRS-CP004P. Which would be best?


----------



## Romanion

``
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Need fast help please! I'm putting together my loop today, which TIM should I use? I have MX-4, IC Diamond 7, and the TIM that came with my Koolance 380A block, looks like it's called GRS-CP004P. Which would be best?


Is IC Diamond 7 electrically conductive? Personally I'd stick with non-conductive paste.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romanion*
> 
> ``
> Is IC Diamond 7 electrically conductive? Personally I'd stick with non-conductive paste.


My tube of IC Diamond 7 is pretty old so i don't think I'll use it... Maybe I'll get wild and gamble on the Koolance TIM since it's fresh.


----------



## VSG

Go with MX-4, it is tried and tested. Shelf life doesn't affect TIM as much as people think.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Go with MX-4, it is tried and tested. Shelf life doesn't affect TIM as much as people think.


Well crap, i just threw on the Koolance TIM and tightened that baby down. no worries, I'll put on the MX-4 if i need to


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Well crap, i just threw on the Koolance TIM and tightened that baby down. no worries, I'll put on the MX-4 if i need to


You can always monitor it for now and swap the paste if you're not happy with it.


----------



## iBored

Hey guys, does putting a drain valve at the pump outlet impede the flow rate in any way?
Just curious, cos the pump outlet is the lowest point in my loop.

Edit:
Figured a picture should help.
Its a T-fitting with a drain valve pointing down, and one of the multi-link fittings pointing up to go to my cpu block


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hey guys, does putting a drain valve at the pump outlet impede the flow rate in any way?
> Just curious, cos the pump outlet is the lowest point in my loop.


As long as you keep it fully opened, shouldn't be a problem. But if it ever closes while the pump is running, that might be a fun party inside your case.


----------



## snef

Nothing to do this morning

why not share more pics


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New BP pump tops.


----------



## VSG

I don't like it when Bitspower puts in a premium tag on fittings and pump tops, their pricing is high as is already.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't like it when Bitspower puts in a premium tag on fittings and pump tops, their pricing is high as is already.


 OH cmon, I think its kind of purty


----------



## VSG

Well those aren't even their new premium branded products


----------



## lowfat

Lol. You can see three different Bitspower logos on the pump from the angle shown.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Lol. You can see three different Bitspower logos on the pump from the angle shown.


They wouldn't want you to mistake it for something else!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Lol. You can see three different Bitspower logos on the pump from the angle shown.


Just so you dont forget why you paid teh monies


----------



## VSG

For some reason Mayhems Pastel seems to have been rebranded by EK: http://www.ekwb.com/news/506/19/EK-launches-the-new-line-of-pastel-line-nano-coolants/
Quote:


> *EK launches the new line of pastel line nano-coolants*
> 
> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium liquid cooling gear manufacturer, is proud to introduce EK-Ekoolant Pastel Concentrate - a concetrated form of new non-transparent, nano-particle enriched coolant, designed specifically for computer liquid cooling systems with 3-year shelf life from date of bottling.
> 
> This 250mL concentrate is to be mixed in 750mL distilled water to form 1L of ready-to-use coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> Ekoolant is the result of latest vigorous experiments on performance and influence, and contains best components:
> - High-efficiency non-toxic secondary refrigerant anti-corrosion coolant,
> - corrosion and scale inhibitors,
> - biological growth inhibitor.
> 
> The nano-particles are 40nm in size to ensure they will not accumulate or block liquid cooling equippment.
> 
> EK-Ekoolant Pastel mixtures are readily biodegradable (90% over ten days) and will not remain in the environment or bio-accumulate.
> 
> EK-Ekoolant Pastel contains synergistic corrosion inhibitors to protect metals commonly found in computer liquid cooling systems. It has been tested in accordance with BS5117 and found to meet BS6580 corrosion standards for copper, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.
> 
> Characteristics:
> - pastel, non-transparent look.
> - concentrated content - low on weight for lowest shipping fees.
> - low electrical conductivity
> - biological growth inhibition
> - corrosion protection according to BS5117 and BS6580 standards
> - high quality concentrated pigments for intense, vivid and saturated colors
> - compatible with Acrylic, POM Acetal, rubber (NBR, EPDM and Norprene) materials
> - eco-friendly (90% biodegradable in 10 days)
> - RoHS compliant
> - 3-year shelf time after bottling
> 
> Produced in United Kingdom by:


Curious to see if there is any difference in the product composition or cost.


----------



## lowfat

Well EK does have further reach than Mayhems so this is good IMO.


----------



## spikezone2004

It appears to be a little bit cheaper at $20 compared to $21.95


----------



## VSG

I would imagine this would come in at the same cost if not more than Pastel itself making it a hard sell in areas where Pastel is already available. I would be pleasantly surprised if it comes in cheaper!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> It appears to be a little bit cheaper at $20 compared to $21.95


Where did you get those prices from? Directly converting EK webstore pricing?


----------



## MadHatter5045

They're at least a little different, currently Mayhems advertises (as per product pages on PPCs) that the pastel products are *not* eco-friendly, they are "harmful to the environment" so this is at least a little differently formulated.


----------



## VSG

Biodegradable nanoparticles? That's news to me!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well those aren't even their new premium branded products


while that's true, they are the ones I prefer and have the same amount of logo'ing. It's amusing because it seems half the people don't like the amount of logo's on a product, and the other half spend many hours working on painting/stenciling more and bigger brand logos on their components.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Biodegradable nanoparticles? That's news to me!


I like the harmful stuff. It doubles as weed/grass killer for my backyard when I change my coolant out.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> while that's true, they are the ones I prefer and have the same amount of logo'ing. It's amusing because it seems half the people don't like the amount of logo's on a product, and the other half spend many hours working on painting/stenciling more and bigger brand logos on their components.


Why did that remind me of Slinky PC?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I like the harmful stuff. It doubles as weed/grass killer for my backyard when I change my coolant out.


Uffff.

Hey @derickwm, got anything to share here about the biodegradability part? I am curious to know more.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I would imagine this would come in at the same cost if not more than Pastel itself making it a hard sell in areas where Pastel is already available. I would be pleasantly surprised if it comes in cheaper!
> Where did you get those prices from? Directly converting EK webstore pricing?


I don't know for USA or EU but here in Canada it will be a way more easy for reseller to order from EK than Mayhem

I Think Dazmode do an order every week with EK if its not more, and need to empty stock with Mayhem to do a new Order
im pretty sure this will reflect on final price (For Dazmode)

I like ordering from Frozen or Performance, but its my last option, Shipping , import taxes and duty are just ridiculous


----------



## derickwm

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For some reason Mayhems Pastel seems to have been rebranded by EK: http://www.ekwb.com/news/506/19/EK-launches-the-new-line-of-pastel-line-nano-coolants/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *EK launches the new line of pastel line nano-coolants*
> 
> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium liquid cooling gear manufacturer, is proud to introduce EK-Ekoolant Pastel Concentrate - a concetrated form of new non-transparent, nano-particle enriched coolant, designed specifically for computer liquid cooling systems with 3-year shelf life from date of bottling.
> 
> This 250mL concentrate is to be mixed in 750mL distilled water to form 1L of ready-to-use coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> Ekoolant is the result of latest vigorous experiments on performance and influence, and contains best components:
> - High-efficiency non-toxic secondary refrigerant anti-corrosion coolant,
> - corrosion and scale inhibitors,
> - biological growth inhibitor.
> 
> The nano-particles are 40nm in size to ensure they will not accumulate or block liquid cooling equippment.
> 
> EK-Ekoolant Pastel mixtures are readily biodegradable (90% over ten days) and will not remain in the environment or bio-accumulate.
> 
> EK-Ekoolant Pastel contains synergistic corrosion inhibitors to protect metals commonly found in computer liquid cooling systems. It has been tested in accordance with BS5117 and found to meet BS6580 corrosion standards for copper, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.
> 
> Characteristics:
> - pastel, non-transparent look.
> - concentrated content - low on weight for lowest shipping fees.
> - low electrical conductivity
> - biological growth inhibition
> - corrosion protection according to BS5117 and BS6580 standards
> - high quality concentrated pigments for intense, vivid and saturated colors
> - compatible with Acrylic, POM Acetal, rubber (NBR, EPDM and Norprene) materials
> - eco-friendly (90% biodegradable in 10 days)
> - RoHS compliant
> - 3-year shelf time after bottling
> 
> Produced in United Kingdom by:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curious to see if there is any difference in the product composition or cost.
Click to expand...

Yus we're working with them now to bring even more users the magic of Mayhems 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> while that's true, they are the ones I prefer and have the same amount of logo'ing. It's amusing because it seems half the people don't like the amount of logo's on a product, and the other half spend many hours working on painting/stenciling more and bigger brand logos on their components.
> 
> 
> 
> Why did that remind me of Slinky PC?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I like the harmful stuff. It doubles as weed/grass killer for my backyard when I change my coolant out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Uffff.
> 
> Hey @derickwm, got anything to share here about the biodegradability part? I am curious to know more.
Click to expand...

It's safe and stuff. What more do you need? Eat it with your fruity pebbles and make gravy with it*.

*Jk please don't


----------



## VSG

I need to ask Hellfire Toyz to stock some, that sponsorship might actually come in handy after all lol.


----------



## lowfat

Ahh yes! My 'new' Tagan / Aplus Black Pearl shipped. Only took me 6 years to find another after royally humping up my first one. Should have no problems fitting two 4x120mm and a 2x140mm in the beast.









O and I'll leave a pic of my 3x140mm w/ the modded GT's mounted.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I would imagine this would come in at the same cost if not more than Pastel itself making it a hard sell in areas where Pastel is already available. I would be pleasantly surprised if it comes in cheaper!
> Where did you get those prices from? Directly converting EK webstore pricing?


Yes I converted the price on the EK website. Just wanted a rough idea of price difference


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Ahh yes! *My 'new' Tagan / Aplus Black Pearl shipped.* Only took me 6 years to find another after royally humping up my first one. Should have no problems fitting two 4x120mm and a 2x140mm in the beast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> O and I'll leave a pic of my 3x140mm w/ the modded GT's mounted.


Good case! Plenty big!


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yus we're working with them now to bring even more users the magic of Mayhems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's safe and stuff. What more do you need? Eat it with your fruity pebbles and make gravy with it*.
> 
> *Jk please don't


Are you joining forces or is it only available in places where Mayhems is not currently?


----------



## jtom320

Anyone have a tubing recomendation other then Advanced LRT?

I'm more curious then anything. Mine has definitely clouded.

Definitely prefer that to plasticizer build up but is there something perfect out there I don't know about?


----------



## VSG

There are matte black plasticizer free tubing like Norprene and Tygon Plasticizer-free but they can be real hard to bend.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Anyone have a tubing recomendation other then Advanced LRT?
> 
> I'm more curious then anything. Mine has definitely clouded.
> 
> Definitely prefer that to plasticizer build up but is there something perfect out there I don't know about?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There are matte black plasticizer free tubing like Norprene and Tygon Plasticizer-free but they can be real hard to bend.


Not necessarily difficult to bend. Tygon have a line of plasticizer free clear tube that are easy to work with. Here are some:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c457/s1723/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Tygon-Tygon_E-1000-Page1.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c457/s1722/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Tygon-Tygon_Plasticizer_Free-Page1.html


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not necessarily difficult to bend. Tygon have a line of plasticizer free clear tube that are easy to work with. Here are some:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c457/s1723/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Tygon-Tygon_E-1000-Page1.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c457/s1722/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Tygon-Tygon_Plasticizer_Free-Page1.html


Tygon E1000 clouds before you even put water anywhere near it. And it's waxy, easy to pull out of compression fittings. Moreover, it still contains plasticisers, just not the carciogenic ones (read the datasheet at St. Gobain, not the FrozenCPU title of the product). I think it was designed for milk production and beer factories, not for water cooling PCs.


----------



## LazarusIV

Troubleshooting time guys and gals. I got my Koolance 380A installed and leak tested,no problems. Put my stuff back together and booted up, checked bios, started loading Windows and pc shuts off. Start it up again, check cpu temp in bios and its at 74°and climbing. Turn it off and here i am. There's flow,i checked that during the leak test. I think i might have the cpu block on too tight. Can just evenly back off on the thumb screws and try again?

EDIT: holy crap I'm pretty sure I'm that guy that left the plastic on the bottom! Frak!


----------



## VSG

Ya, try that. If that doesn't help you may have to remount it and see.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, try that. If that doesn't help you may have to remount it and see.


I totally left the frakking plastic on it. Good Lord. Now to put the rad and fans back up top,hopefully that's easier this time...

Edit: how much should i tighten down the thumb screws? They go down really easily so i worry I'll tighten too much.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Tygon E1000 clouds before you even put water anywhere near it. And it's waxy, easy to pull out of compression fittings. Moreover, it still contains plasticisers, just not the carciogenic ones (read the datasheet at St. Gobain, not the FrozenCPU title of the product). I think it was designed for milk production and beer factories, not for water cooling PCs.


Good to known. Trying to find more info here, can you point me to where you find that information? The info in FZCPU is exactly copy and paste I found here:

http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=42982f867bcc48f597441f83f8ce853a&ckck=1


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New BP pump tops.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


mwahahaha, this is how I Get my 3rd pump back into my case!

I wonder if it will be intentionally made to NOT sync with EK DDC housing.


----------



## LazarusIV

Up and running sans the cpu block plastic. Looking good so far :crosses fingers: IBT AVX running with RAM set very high, two runs and I've topped at 44° so far. A heck of a lot better then my H50! Thanks for the help so far everyone, hopefully i won't need any more ?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering on peoples thoughts,

I plan on maybe putting a 420mm rad in the top of my Bitfenix Shinobi XL, but I was wondering if using Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm Fan with a adapter like below, would work any good ?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I totally left the frakking plastic on it. Good Lord. Now to put the rad and fans back up top,hopefully that's easier this time...
> 
> Edit: how much should i tighten down the thumb screws? They go down really easily so i worry I'll tighten too much.


Just enough so the block doesn't move at all.


----------



## rts2468

Here is my newest build "Deceptitran" it is an AMD FX series 6300 with 2x EVGA GTX 470's with 16GB of RAM. Here are some build pictures.




Also, Here are the pictures of the finished loops.








Any comments would be greatly appreciated. I hope you enjoy these pictures as much as I enjoy this PC.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Up and running sans the cpu block plastic. Looking good so far :crosses fingers: IBT AVX running with RAM set very high, two runs and I've topped at 44° so far. A heck of a lot better then my H50! Thanks for the help so far everyone, hopefully i won't need any more ?


Nice, if you're keen on Oc'ing that baby, you still have a lot of headroom.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Tygon E1000 clouds before you even put water anywhere near it. And it's waxy, easy to pull out of compression fittings. Moreover, it still contains plasticisers, just not the carciogenic ones (read the datasheet at St. Gobain, not the FrozenCPU title of the product). I think it was designed for milk production and beer factories, not for water cooling PCs.


So it seems then like the Primochill is the best despite the clouding issues?

That's okay I guess. With colored fluid it's not really noticable.

I'd really love to do Acrylic with this thing but I think I'll save that for the next build. This is already basically done and the fittings are already bought.


----------



## nismoskyline

Finished my transplant build







I decided to keep and use one of the two radeon 6990s I bought a little while ago as an upgrade from my space heater three way sli gtx 480s.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nice, if you're keen on Oc'ing that baby, you still have a lot of headroom.


Oh, I'm OC'in alright! So far I'm at 4.3GHz on stock voltage. I stopped testing for the night so I'll pick it up in the morning. I'm excited, so far so good! My setup is a bit hasty, i underestimated the size of the D5 Photon pump/res combo so it doesn't quite fit in my arc midi like i thought it would. Oh well, that's what zip ties are for!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Good to known. Trying to find more info here, can you point me to where you find that information? The info in FZCPU is exactly copy and paste I found here:
> 
> http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=42982f867bcc48f597441f83f8ce853a&ckck=1


Ah yeah I see FCPU have copied the first paragraph in their description. Clearly they've misunderstood that "_now in a formulation that contains non-DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] plasticizers_" doesn't mean no plasticisers at all, but just means there's no DEHP in the plasticisers. Many of these polymer tubes need some kind of plasticiser to make them flexible, the trick is to find ones with low absorption rates so that it doesn't cloud as quickly. Advanced LRT has a thick inner wall that is low-absorption, but makes the tube less flexible overall.

The other Tygon type listed by FCPU is 2475 which is indeed plasticiser free "_utilizes the latest in polymer technology to provide an entirely clear and flexible tubing choice for sensitive fluid transfer applications_" and has a very low water absorption rate. I would try that myself if I wasn't going acrylic on my next build.


----------



## QAKE

Hello,

I used to work in an analysis lab, and we used 3 types of Tygon tubes. The 2001, 2375 and 2475.
Those 3 types are plasticizers-free.
One of the clouding factor of a tube is the water absorption rate of it.
If it is high, your tube will most likely absorb water and dye and other components of your cooling liquid rapidly, clouding and staining the tube.
We used mostly the Tygon 2375. The environment in which we used it was a mix of hot water, ketones (really bad for plastic) and acids, @ 77°C.
Clouding began to appear after a year of non-stop use (24/7).
A normal PC-Waterloop barely reach 65°C, most likely 40-50°C, depending of the cooled hardware and the numbers of radiators.
I marked the important specs of the tubes, those are essential for the PC-Watercooling application.

  

Note that the value of water absorption <0.01 % indicate that it is not measurable with the used method. It just indicate the method error-threshold.
Also note that the recommended max temperatures is RECOMMENDED temperatures. We used our tube in a harsh environment and a temperature 20°C superior than the recommended value, 24/7, without problem during more than a year.

For comparison here is the Tygon R-3603. Its absorption rate is more than 24x superior than the 2375 and 2475 tubes, and 8x superior than the 2001. The R.3603 contains also plasticizers (but not DEHP, that is a carcinogenic plasticizer).



So for my next water-cooled builds, I'm gonna use the Tygon 2375 without hesitation.

Hope this post will help you


----------



## LazarusIV

Anyone know of a good way to fit the D5 Photon 170 reservoir into a fractal design arc midi? It's bigger than i thought and it can't mount flat on its bottom. I've got it setting on foam and zip ties to the front of the case on the inside, I'd like to secure it in there better but I'm not sure how... Any ideas, ye gods and goddesses of watercooling?


----------



## VSG

Another day, another new EK product line. This time the 16mm HDC fittings:
Quote:


> *EK introduces 16mm variant of EK-HDC compression fittings*
> 
> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana-based premium computer liquid cooling gear manufacturer, is proud to introduce the latest addition to EK-HDC solid-tubing Compression Fitting product line.
> 
> EK-HDC Fitting is a solid-tube compression fitting, designed for use with solid tubing such as Acrylic, Copper, Stainless Steel or any other type of compatible hard tube. EK-HDC Fitting is a more secure variant of the EK-HD Adapter fitting as it prevents solid tube to be pulled out of the fitting by compressing the rubber gasket underneath the ring.
> 
> 
> 
> The barb is made of nickel-plated CNC machined brass while the ring is made of either nickel-plated brass or anodized aluminum (depending on the variant). These fittings are fully compatible with EK-CSQ series (45°/90°) angled adapters.
> 
> Best practice is to install these fittings using Allen Key 9mm (not included, available for separate purchase).
> 
> EK-HDC Fitting 16mm Technical data:
> - thread: G1/4" BSP; 4.5mm male thread lenght
> - supported tube: 16mm (OD)
> - outer diameter of a fitting: 23.8mm
> - installed height: 14.5mm
> - compatible tubing: solid Acrylic-, Copper-, Brass- or Stainless Steel tube
> 
> ROHS Compliant. Made in Slovenia - Europe!


These look good too! Anyone know how hard it is to remove the "barb" end of these fittings (the 12mm ones for example)? Looks like there isn't a lot of grip there.


----------



## skupples

Someone dropping hard facts on tygon products?!

+1 for data sheets.


----------



## Gabrielzm

@Qake and @WiSK thanks a lot for the info. Yeah I am moving to acrylic too but I think going try the 2375 or 2475. I am using the 1000 one and it does stain quickly.


----------



## jtom320

I need some tubing for my final..rebuild of this build.

Think I'll go with one of those just to try em out. I can actually pick up Advanced LRT locally so if it sucks I can replace it easily.

Tubing with a little less flex actually sounds like a good thing to me honestly.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Someone dropping hard facts on tygon products?!
> 
> +1 for data sheets.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @Qake and @WiSK thanks a lot for the info. Yeah I am moving to acrylic too but I think going try the 2375 or 2475. I am using the 1000 one and it does stain quickly.












Here's also the Datasheet of the Tygon 1000 tube. It has more water absorbtion than all of the others. But I never used it.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Going to be hard selling this smexy case







but plans change


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Anyone know of a good way to fit the D5 Photon 170 reservoir into a fractal design arc midi? It's bigger than i thought and it can't mount flat on its bottom. I've got it setting on foam and zip ties to the front of the case on the inside, I'd like to secure it in there better but I'm not sure how... Any ideas, ye gods and goddesses of watercooling?


If you have room up against almost anything for the backplate of the bracket to fit then Industrial Strength Velcro will hold it. I've got a Photon 270 D5 pump combo mounted using it. lol


----------



## skupples

@B NEGATIVE I know this is slightly off topic, but I thought your insight may be helpful. I have a molded plastic part that I need to fuse back together. It takes 3+ months to get one from China. I got the new part, LET SOMEONE ELSE TRY TO PUT IT IN, and he snapped off the leg. It is a stopper for a mechanical wheel in a Printer (I swear it is water cooled) It requires little pressure, and I would like to fuse it back together... Would that acrylic weld you always recommend work in this situation? Super Glue doesn't seem to be cutting it. It's not really binding the plastic properly.


----------



## MrGrievous

Thank you Qake I will order me some 2375 now rep + for the data sheet


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you have room up against almost anything for the backplate of the bracket to fit then Industrial Strength Velcro will hold it. I've got a Photon 270 D5 pump combo mounted using it. lol


Hey man, thanks for the suggestion! I ended up zip-tying it to the front of the case, there were a couple of holes that darn near lined up with two of the screw holes in the pump/res stand thing. I threw a couple of zip ties through it, stuffed a little bit of foam behind it and snugged that $h1t3 down. It's working really well and it cut down on the little pump noise there was. I also turned the D5 from setting 4 to setting 3, I think 4 was a tad too strong for a CPU only loop...

In other news, I found a little bit of coolant underneath the pump when I opened up my case to loosen the retention nuts on the CPU block. I had a minor freak-out moment but then I realized it could have been infinitely worse. Everything was turned off and unplugged so I checked all the other fittings and found no coolant anywhere else. It looks like it leaked from the pump portion itself, that was the only place there was coolant. I checked the ring around the pump and found it to be a bit loose. I hadn't checked it before I originally installed it so I'm kicking myself for that a bit. When I tightened that ring it went about another 1/3 to 1/2 inch around, so I snugged it hand tight. I've been testing it ever since and the temps are a lot better and there has been zero leaking whatsoever! I've scratched my previous OC and have started over again so I'll finish tomorrow and hopefully I'll be good to go!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE I know this is slightly off topic, but I thought your insight may be helpful. I have a molded plastic part that I need to fuse back together. It takes 3+ months to get one from China. I got the new part, LET SOMEONE ELSE TRY TO PUT IT IN, and he snapped off the leg. It is a stopper for a mechanical wheel in a Printer (I swear it is water cooled) It requires little pressure, and I would like to fuse it back together... Would that acrylic weld you always recommend work in this situation? Super Glue doesn't seem to be cutting it. It's not really binding the plastic properly.


Sounds like a job for a plastic welder. Know anyone who installs car stereos? Even if not you might be able to take the part by a car stereo installation shop (preferably a good one) and find someone there who can do it for you. There may well be better places to have that kind of thing done but I'm unaware of what/where that might be. I've had a guy at a high-end car stereo/alarm shop weld some plastic parts together for me for relatively cheap and I was amazed at how strong and clean it turned out. I'd say good as new but it actually was better than when it was new.


----------



## skupples

It's either going to have to be welded, or apoxied i think.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New BP pump tops.


Please elaborate? Is this for the new MCP50X cause I'm starting my build tomorrow and I was really hoping for one before I got started.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Please elaborate? Is this for the new MCP50X cause I'm starting my build tomorrow and I was really hoping for one before I got started.


From what I remember seeing, DDC top will not work the 50X because it is a propriety pump made by Swiftech, not Liang, so the dimensions aren't the same as the 35X, 355, and 350. I would check with @BramSLI1 on that though


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah I know the current DDC pump tops are Not compatible I just figured it's a matter of time before BP and swiftech release one for the new pump

He is keeping pretty tight lipped about it, says their is something in the works but wont say what just yet


----------



## Raul-7

Why do the builds here [mine included] pale in comparison to the builds on the XS forum? Most of their builds look like they were modeled after MurderMods


----------



## skupples

I would be surprised if anyone produces anything for the Swiftech proprietary pump, besides swiftech.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Why do the builds here [mine included] pale in comparison to the builds on the XS forum? Most of their builds look like they were modeled after MurderMods


Well I think the reason you think that is because of the fact that this forum is waaaasyyyy more active and populated than the XS forum, thus the quantity of builds here is far greater, perhaps more so that are of the caliber you speak. With that forum the name alone may be intimidating to newbies wanting to post in a forum so they avoid it and post here in a larger, more active community that is perceived as a more welcoming place for folks. This is a great thing, and this is a great place for people to evolve. For an activity example, the gallery thread on that forum that is the equivalent of this gallery thread has 5,000 replies compared to the 71,000 replies here.

It's just perception, there are just as many beautiful builds here, if not more.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New BP pump tops.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bitspower are really upping their game. When they changed / downgraded the finishes on the D5 pump covers it had me worried.
The aluminium plates that cover a recessed port when its not being used is pure genius. This is the first DDC top that I would consider over EK


----------



## kizwan

My distilled + blood red dye coolant darken after 4 months. Even in reservoir the coolant looks thicken. Is this normal? No change in temps though.


----------



## Kimir

Since @QAKE is posting the datasheet of some Tygon tubing, might as well put the Norprene one:

The water absorption is the worst of them all posted, but well, clouding with that one isn't an issue anyway, since it's black.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE I know this is slightly off topic, but I thought your insight may be helpful. I have a molded plastic part that I need to fuse back together. It takes 3+ months to get one from China. I got the new part, LET SOMEONE ELSE TRY TO PUT IT IN, and he snapped off the leg. It is a stopper for a mechanical wheel in a Printer (I swear it is water cooled) It requires little pressure, and I would like to fuse it back together... Would that acrylic weld you always recommend work in this situation? Super Glue doesn't seem to be cutting it. It's not really binding the plastic properly.


It should work really well,you will need to remove all traces of the cyanoacrylate glue first tho.


----------



## royce5950

I recommend JB weld. try some JB after you try B negs idea


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I recommend JB weld. try some JB after you try B negs idea


Which JB weld?

For your benefit,its JB weld #3 that you are looking for.


----------



## devilhead

hi guys, have some problem with my reservoir from XSPC ( http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/twin-d5-dual-bay-reservoirpump-combo )
used for an not full 1 year with Mayhems pastel red, all other parts is in perfect shape, used acrylic tubing. Like i think now it is some reaction with glue, which was on sides res., so how do you think it is worth to use? it is safe?


----------



## ozzy1925

guys, i am waiting for my package from performance pcs .It has been 14 days and it still says.


That means someone got my package?


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys, i am waiting for my package from performance pcs .It has been 14 days and it still says.
> 
> 
> That means someone got my package?


USPS picked it up from PPCS is how I'm reading it.


----------



## derickwm

I'd definitely give USPS a call.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> USPS picked it up from PPCS is how I'm reading it.


I live in Turkey ,it usually takes 14 days for the packages to reach me.This time it doesnt even move an inch since 31 of july.I now send an email performance pcs and ask whats going on and they tell me you requested a pick up W T F







. and i replied hows that possibe i dont even live in USA. And they replied the most they can do is calling usps and ask.?I paid with paypal should i open dispute ?


----------



## VSG

lol if you requested a pick up why is there a tracking number from USPS? It's like logic goes over their heads sometimes.


----------



## ozzy1925

now they are saying:
Dear Customer,

Sometimes the post office does not scan all packages. Since this is international it can take longer, due to your package possibly being held up in customs. We have set up an inquiry with USPS.

Thank you!
They told me it will take 23 days to get an answer from USPS.Should i wait or just open a dispute?


----------



## DeXel

Just wait for another week or two. International mail is not always flawless.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My distilled + blood red dye coolant darken after 4 months. Even in reservoir the coolant looks thicken. Is this normal? No change in temps though.


Did you clean the rads?


----------



## mend0k

23 days?? How long do have to open a dispute in paypal? Like 60 days right? Not sure why its so long to get a response but maybe it meant that it will take no longer than 23 days? Either way thats a pretty long time I would probably just open up a dispute depending if it was a lot of $$$, if not then wait a little longer I guess.


----------



## DeXel

I think Paypal dispute is up to 40 days. I wouldn't open until day 39 just because it's international and lots of things can happen.

EDIT: Actually 45 days.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mend0k*
> 
> 23 days?? How long do have to open a dispute in paypal? Like 60 days right? Not sure why its so long to get a response but maybe it meant that it will take no longer than 23 days? Either way thats a pretty long time I would probably just open up a dispute depending if it was a lot of $$$, if not then wait a little longer I guess.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I think Paypal dispute is up to 40 days. I wouldn't open until day 39 just because it's international and lots of things can happen.
> 
> EDIT: Actually 45 days.


yea its 45 days after sending the money I paid 82.50$ only for the shipping .I can believe 1 post office forget to scan the packages but how about others?Here is one of my older order last year:

as you see it travels around USA before leaving the country so this time all offices forget to scan my package before reaching to USA customs?


----------



## DeXel

My guess is after that scan it went right to the airport. USPS tracking is not reliable.


----------



## mend0k

Hmm 82 just for shipping? Idk i'd probably wait maybe a week or so if it doesn't go over that 45 day mark, and if it doesn't I would probably dispute after contacting PPC again.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yea its 45 days after sending the money I paid 82.50$ only for the shipping .I can believe 1 post office forget to scan the packages but how about others?Here is one of my older order last year:
> 
> as you see it travels around USA before leaving the country so this time all offices forget to scan my package before reaching to USA customs?


I did got a package from PPC recently that stayed all the time up to me as "pre-shipping" in USPS. That said it is weird that you got a USPS number and at same time store pickup is selected. Is either one or the other. PPC is does not have the friendliest and best communication skills out there.... In the end (2 weeks) I did got the package in perfect condition. But that is not what is said in your tracking is said pick-up by request (whatever that means...).


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> My guess is after that scan it went right to the airport. USPS tracking is not reliable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mend0k*
> 
> Hmm 82 just for shipping? Idk i'd probably wait maybe a week or so if it doesn't go over that 45 day mark, and if it doesn't I would probably dispute after contacting PPC again.


Thanks guys, I think its better to wait till monday if i still see the same i will open dispute
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I did got a package from PPC recently that stayed all the time up to me as "pre-shipping" in USPS. That said it is weird that you got a USPS number and at same time store pickup is selected. Is either one or the other. PPC is does not have the friendliest and best communication skills out there.... In the end (2 weeks) I did got the package in perfect condition. But that is not what is said in your tracking is said pick-up by request (whatever that means...).


They now saying :
Your package has left palm bay Florida. The tracking system may take awhile to update. Sometimes it doesn't update until it is delivered to you. We set up an inquiry and it take 23 working days for us to here an answer. You may get your package before then

It took 2 weeks for the package to reach you?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep I am in Brazil. Never had that experience before. USPS tracking always worked for me both from PPC or FZCPU. This time it stayed like eletronic pre-shipping all the way to me... But pick-up by request I never saw before...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My distilled + blood red dye coolant darken after 4 months. Even in reservoir the coolant looks thicken. Is this normal? No change in temps though.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you clean the rads?
Click to expand...

Yes I did. It happen after 4 months. Let say I didn't clean the rads properly, what is the chances it take 4 months to make whatever left in radiators to react with coolant?


----------



## DeXel

Depends on the radiator. I had my coolant go blue in 2 months with Alphacool radiator. Did you run tap water both ways, and use some acid (lemon juice, vinegar)?


----------



## jtom320

Does anyone have a link to the review where the rx v3 beats the ut60? I am looking at those two rads and the monsta. Having trouble making my final decision on the xspc or the alphacool.

Space is not an issue. Push and pull will be used regardless of rad type. Running typhoons at 1300rpm if anyone has thoughts on one versus the other.


----------



## DeXel

http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads

At those fan speeds Monsta is the best.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Does anyone have a link to the review where the rx v3 beats the ut60? I am looking at those two rads and the monsta. Having trouble making my final decision on the xspc or the alphacool.
> 
> Space is not an issue. Push and pull will be used regardless of rad type. Running typhoons at 1300rpm if anyone has thoughts on one versus the other.


Bundymania 360 roundup
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283133-Bundymania-User-Review-Triple-Radiator-(360)-Roundup-with-22-Rads-
If fractions of a degree are important then choose away. Honestly though, the differences between rads are small, and shrink further if more than one is used. Build quality and looks are more important to me. XSPC rads are normally quite well built.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep I am in Brazil. Never had that experience before. USPS tracking always worked for me both from PPC or FZCPU. This time it stayed like eletronic pre-shipping all the way to me... *But pick-up by request I never saw before*...


I see the confusion here.. let me elaborate. In his tracking mail where it said "Picked up by request" doesn't mean that a customer walked in and picked up the package. Instead of taking the packages to USPS directly PPCS requests a mail pickup. The tracking info is just showing that a USPS service person had picked up the outgoing parcels from PPCS for delivery.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Bundymania 360 roundup
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283133-Bundymania-User-Review-Triple-Radiator-(360)-Roundup-with-22-Rads-
> If fractions of a degree are important then choose away. Honestly though, the differences between rads are small, and shrink further if more than one is used. Build quality and looks are more important to me. XSPC rads are normally quite well built.


The performance difference is tiny. Truthfully I'd rather not deal with a lphacools mess inside their rads as well.

But I already have an xt45 in the ceiling and I would prefer they matched.

Will have to think on it a bit.

At any rate I appreciate the links. Thanks guys.


----------



## morencyam

Also here to say that USPS tracking is terrible. I've had multiple packages arrive at my door before even saying that was picked up on the tracking site. It would still say "Electronic Shipping info received" all the way up until it was delivered. And even then sometimes it wouldn't update as being delivered. Long story short, wait it out. It'll show up eventually. If you get close to the dispute deadline and still don't have it. Call USPS first before filing a dispute. It's not fair to PPCs to file a dispute against them for something that isn't their fault.


----------



## ozzy1925

sorry to go off topic :
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep I am in Brazil. Never had that experience before. USPS tracking always worked for me both from PPC or FZCPU. This time it stayed like eletronic pre-shipping all the way to me... But pick-up by request I never saw before...


i am really sorry guys for the off topic,
on my last email i told them i will wait 3-5 days and will open dispute also asked them request means.They told me:
Pick up by request means that we have daily pick ups, which means that at a certain time every day, the postal office sends someone out to pick up our packages, this is a tracking update and was letting you known that someone indeed picked it up and it has left our facility. As far as the 23 days goes, there is nothing we can do as Turkey requires 23 days in their investigation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> I see the confusion here.. let me elaborate. In his tracking mail where it said "Picked up by request" doesn't mean that a customer walked in and picked up the package. Instead of taking the packages to USPS directly PPCS requests a mail pickup. The tracking info is just showing that a USPS service person had picked up the outgoing parcels from PPCS for delivery.


yes i understand now but they did the first confusion I asked them whats up with my package:
Here is their first answer:
Dear Customer,

It seems that you requested tat this package be picked up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Also here to say that USPS tracking is terrible. I've had multiple packages arrive at my door before even saying that was picked up on the tracking site. It would still say "Electronic Shipping info received" all the way up until it was delivered. And even then sometimes it wouldn't update as being delivered. Long story short, wait it out. It'll show up eventually. If you get close to the dispute deadline and still don't have it. Call USPS first before filing a dispute. It's not fair to PPCs to file a dispute against them for something that isn't their fault.


then please tell me other way to get my money back.I told them i will wait 3-5 days more then open dispute (I can close the dispute if i get the package by that time).They only say they cant do anything other than calling usps
.As you see they lack of communication and i think they need to upgrade their skills. Also i even paid extra for the insurance .


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Does anyone have a link to the review where the rx v3 beats the ut60? I am looking at those two rads and the monsta. Having trouble making my final decision on the xspc or the alphacool.
> 
> Space is not an issue. Push and pull will be used regardless of rad type. Running typhoons at 1300rpm if anyone has thoughts on one versus the other.
> 
> 
> 
> Bundymania 360 roundup
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283133-Bundymania-User-Review-Triple-Radiator-(360)-Roundup-with-22-Rads-
> If fractions of a degree are important then choose away. Honestly though, the differences between rads are small, and shrink further if more than one is used. Build quality and looks are more important to me. *XSPC rads are normally quite well built.*
Click to expand...

Indeed they are,much better than the Alphastool rads.

If build quality you want then you would struggle to beat HWL,XSPC,AquaC AMS rads.........


----------



## morencyam

Say you sold an item on eBay. You ship it and it gets lost. The buyer comes to you for a refund. So now you are out the item and the money. How does that seem fair to you, the seller?

If you had the package insured, and it actually is lost never to be seen again, then USPS will reimburse you for any lost items. That's why you buy the insurance, to cover yourself in situations like this

Call USPS yourself. That's all PPCs is doing. Just cut out the middleman. Maybe it got scanned and the site didn't update. I've had that happen too. I called USPS, asked where my package was because tracking wasn't updating, and the lady was able to give me a time and location of the last scan(which, again, didn't show up on the tracking site)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If build quality you want then you would struggle to beat HWL,XSPC,AquaC AMS rads.........


THIS. I've had an RX240, ST30, and currently have HWL GTX and Thermochill PA, and I must say, the HWL rad is by far the best build quality. I could use the damn thing as a wheel chuck for an 18-wheeler and have nothing to worry about. The ST30 is hands down lowest quality of the four, with the Thermochill being second best followed closely by the RX


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> The performance difference is tiny. Truthfully I'd rather not deal with a lphacools mess inside their rads as well.
> 
> But I already have an xt45 in the ceiling and I would prefer they matched.
> 
> Will have to think on it a bit.
> 
> At any rate I appreciate the links. Thanks guys.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Indeed they are,much better than the Alphastool rads.
> 
> If build quality you want then you would struggle to beat HWL,XSPC,AquaC AMS rads.........


Yep. Just got a 480 mm rx v3 and a 240 mm rx v3 and I would say the package and rad are excellent. A simple look inside and you can tell the rad is clean contrary to my previous experience with OCool. I would go XSPC without a doubt. Here are some shots of the babies:





It comes with the bubble plastic but also the white paper enveloping and notice that the screws and plugs are protected by a cardboard to avoid damage to fins. It came in pristine condition.




BTW this was the package that only appears to me as "pre-shipping" in USPS. Also notice the grey liquid in the test loop on the background. Kind a love it


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Does anyone have a link to the review where the rx v3 beats the ut60? I am looking at those two rads and the monsta. Having trouble making my final decision on the xspc or the alphacool.
> 
> Space is not an issue. Push and pull will be used regardless of rad type. Running typhoons at 1300rpm if anyone has thoughts on one versus the other.
> 
> 
> 
> Bundymania 360 roundup
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283133-Bundymania-User-Review-Triple-Radiator-(360)-Roundup-with-22-Rads-
> If fractions of a degree are important then choose away. Honestly though, the differences between rads are small, and shrink further if more than one is used. Build quality and looks are more important to me. *XSPC rads are normally quite well built.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Indeed they are,much better than the Alphastool rads.
> 
> If build quality you want then you would struggle to beat HWL,XSPC,AquaC AMS rads.........
Click to expand...

I'm going to call not cool at the "Alphastool" comment.

I have used a variety of rads and choose Alphacool,(in particular the NexXxos series)

besides that they perform as well of better than any of the rads out there. the build quality is very good. When I look at a radiator, I have a very good close up (as in from the inside out) look at the quality.

I use my Snap on BK5500

This is one of one of my Alphacool NexXxos XT45's 240mm







I have not once had "a mess" inside An Alphacool

This concludes my opposing view


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. Just got a 480 mm rx v3 and a 240 mm rx v3 and I would say the package and rad are excellent. A simple look inside and you can tell the rad is clean contrary to my previous experience with OCool. I would go XSPC without a doubt. Here are some shots of the babies:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with the bubble plastic but also the white paper enveloping and notice that the screws and plugs are protected by a cardboard to avoid damage to fins. It came in pristine condition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW this was the package that only appears to me as "pre-shipping" in USPS. Also notice the grey liquid in the test loop on the background. Kind a love it


Make sure to shake it very good. My RX240 v3 had bunch of debris as big as 1 inch in size.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Make sure to shake it very good. My RX240 v3 had bunch of debris as big as 1 inch in size.


I will clean it real good despite looking clean that's is for sure.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. Just got a 480 mm rx v3 and a 240 mm rx v3 and I would say the package and rad are excellent. A simple look inside and you can tell the rad is clean contrary to my previous experience with OCool. I would go XSPC without a doubt. Here are some shots of the babies:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with the bubble plastic but also the white paper enveloping and notice that the screws and plugs are protected by a cardboard to avoid damage to fins. It came in pristine condition.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW this was the package that only appears to me as "pre-shipping" in USPS. *Also notice the grey liquid in the test loop on the background*. Kind a love it


At first glance I though it was a wrist rocket slingshot lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

^^Lol... It is my "floor ghetto test bed" I am using to test parts to the new build in the community WC gear test thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread. The thread is really interesting with lot's of good information and tests already there.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I'm going to call not cool at the "Alphastool" comment.
> 
> I have used a variety of rads and choose Alphacool,(in particular the NexXxos series)
> 
> besides that they perform as well of better than any of the rads out there. the build quality is very good. When I look at a radiator, I have a very good close up (as in from the inside out) look at the quality.
> 
> I use my Snap on BK5500
> 
> This is one of one of my Alphacool NexXxos XT45's 240mm
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not once had "a mess" inside An Alphacool
> 
> This concludes my opposing view


This is straight from Namron's review of the Mayhems Blitz Pro kit.

On the right is the XSPC RX240, and the left is the Alphacool UT60 280 after *6 hours:*



The next one is from the UT60 360 (left) vs the RX360 (right) after 12 hours of Part 1:



And I'll leave you with this quote from Geggeg's build log:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I had some thumbscrews at the front that were getting stripped and no matter which screwdriver I tried or how much WD-40 I added it did nothing. In the spirit of the US independence day, since finesse didn't work I resorted to brute force to get what I wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dremel + metal cutting blade + WD-40 on the screws equals:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a large, flat hole in each of the stripped screws so I could then use a flathead screwdriver with increased torque. 30 minutes later, all of them were out and I can now play with the front of the case as I wish:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is enough space for a 5x120mm rad in the front on each side if I want. Bitspower had promised such a rad (600mm rad) last year but nothing came of it so far:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well! I am doing some radiator cleaning now, I had to remove all the fans off that Mo.Ra though and it will be a real pain to put them back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Used Part 1 of the Mayhems Blitz Pro cleaning kit on the Alphacool Monsta 480, Phobya G-Changer 120 and Swiftech MCR120-XP. No prizes for guessing where most of that gunk came from. The amount that came out was pretty shocking though, as I had the monsta in a loop before for ~ 2 months and had the Primochill SysPrep running through it initially. Guess now we know that does absolutely nothing! For the rest of the rads, I had a 1:10 by volume solution of distilled white vinegar and distilled water in them for 6 hours followed by flushing with regular tap water and then distilled water. The effluent from these was much better which goes to show XSPC, HardwareLabs and Watercool really clean their rads before shipping them.* Now on to Part 2 of the kit to do a general scrub and neutralize the pH back to 6.5-7 after the acid bath. For this I set up a rad only loop which took up most of my my table downstairs:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is still running (24 hours recommended) as I write this. Tomorrow morning I drain it, run just distilled water to clean it up and we are all ready to go!


And from personal experience with Alphacool products, I've had numerous fittings from them with their paint finish come off extremely easily (extremely subpar coatings) and have had a male-to-male rotary blow up on me and cause quite a damn large mess all over my work area.

There is definitely a reason they are called Alphastool here on OCN. And I wholeheartedly agree with Bneg's comment about them after personally seeing firsthand how bad their products QC tends to be.


----------



## spikezone2004

Just got my MCP50X pump wth MXP35X reservoir setup and testing. I made a video if people are interested in seeing the MCP50X pump in action as well as the noise level, as their isn't much info about that out at the moment.


----------



## snef

always have this issue for Canada shipping

50% of time, I received the package before they update the tracking and its around 2 weeks (for cheapest shiiping by USPS)

and the other 50%, they update it with "on Vehicle for delivery"

if I need a better tracking service, I need to chose USPS Expedited


----------



## Red1776

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I'm going to call not cool at the "Alphastool" comment.
> 
> I have used a variety of rads and choose Alphacool,(in particular the NexXxos series)
> 
> besides that they perform as well of better than any of the rads out there. the build quality is very good. When I look at a radiator, I have a very good close up (as in from the inside out) look at the quality.
> 
> I use my Snap on BK5500
> 
> This is one of one of my Alphacool NexXxos XT45's 240mm
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not once had "a mess" inside An Alphacool
> 
> This concludes my opposing view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is straight from Namron's review of the Mayhems Blitz Pro kit.
> 
> On the right is the XSPC RX240, and the left is the Alphacool UT60 280 after *6 hours:*
> 
> 
> 
> The next one is from the UT60 360 (left) vs the RX360 (right) after 12 hours of Part 1:
> 
> 
> 
> And I'll leave you with this quote from Geggeg's build log:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I had some thumbscrews at the front that were getting stripped and no matter which screwdriver I tried or how much WD-40 I added it did nothing. In the spirit of the US independence day, since finesse didn't work I resorted to brute force to get what I wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dremel + metal cutting blade + WD-40 on the screws equals:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a large, flat hole in each of the stripped screws so I could then use a flathead screwdriver with increased torque. 30 minutes later, all of them were out and I can now play with the front of the case as I wish:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is enough space for a 5x120mm rad in the front on each side if I want. Bitspower had promised such a rad (600mm rad) last year but nothing came of it so far:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well! I am doing some radiator cleaning now, I had to remove all the fans off that Mo.Ra though and it will be a real pain to put them back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Used Part 1 of the Mayhems Blitz Pro cleaning kit on the Alphacool Monsta 480, Phobya G-Changer 120 and Swiftech MCR120-XP. No prizes for guessing where most of that gunk came from. The amount that came out was pretty shocking though, as I had the monsta in a loop before for ~ 2 months and had the Primochill SysPrep running through it initially. Guess now we know that does absolutely nothing! For the rest of the rads, I had a 1:10 by volume solution of distilled white vinegar and distilled water in them for 6 hours followed by flushing with regular tap water and then distilled water. The effluent from these was much better which goes to show XSPC, HardwareLabs and Watercool really clean their rads before shipping them.* Now on to Part 2 of the kit to do a general scrub and neutralize the pH back to 6.5-7 after the acid bath. For this I set up a rad only loop which took up most of my my table downstairs:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is still running (24 hours recommended) as I write this. Tomorrow morning I drain it, run just distilled water to clean it up and we are all ready to go!
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...







> And from personal experience with Alphacool products, I've had numerous fittings from them with their paint finish come off extremely easily (extremely subpar coatings) and have had a male-to-male rotary blow up on me and cause quite a damn large mess all over my work area.
> 
> There is definitely a reason they are called Alphastool here on OCN. And I wholeheartedly agree with Bneg's comment about them after personally seeing firsthand how bad their products QC tends to be.


and that's why "the opposing view"

Your experience mirrors mine, just switch the brands around. after Three complete flushes, I was left with a CPU block that had its microfins clogged with more slag.

Thank god for competition.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> and that's why "the opposing view"
> 
> Your experience mirrors mine, just switch the brands around. after Three complete flushes, I was left with a CPU block that had its microfins clogged with more slag.
> 
> Thank god for competition.


Your experience might be the opposite mirror of mine, but the vast majority have had my opinion/experience with Alphacool, versus your experience/opinion on XSPC (and the like).

Also, whenever you flush a radiator, you should never be flushing it within a loop to begin with. You should be flushing the radiator by itself with hot water shaking the ever living crap out of it. The fact that you clogged your CPU block is purely your fault.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

For me,anything that comes from the Aquatuning group of companies should be viewed with suspicion. After all the rad horrors I have seen from them....all the fitting issues...I just can't consciously recommend them.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> and that's why "the opposing view"
> 
> Your experience mirrors mine, just switch the brands around. after Three complete flushes, I was left with a CPU block that had its microfins clogged with more slag.
> 
> Thank god for competition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your experience might be the opposite mirror of mine, but the vast majority have had my opinion/experience with Alphacool, versus your experience/opinion on XSPC (and the like).
> 
> Also, whenever you flush a radiator, you should never be flushing it within a loop to begin with. You should be flushing the radiator by itself with hot water shaking the ever living crap out of it. The fact that you clogged your CPU block is purely your fault.
Click to expand...

Where did you get the idea that I flushed it "within the loop to begin with?" I said nothing remotely of the sort. Makes it rather hard to have an exchange of ideas when you make unfounded sweeping assumptions.


----------



## jtom320

I think you guys may have convinced me to go with the RX.

Having mismatched rads is going to eat at my soul. I've tried really hard over the past two months or so to get everything right.

But I think ill be able to deal. They are both black at least.


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Having mismatched rads is going to eat at my soul.


I feel your pain... I had an XSPC 280 with some BitFenix Spectre Pro fans attached when only my CPU was under water, but then decided to go for a 780Ti and an additional rad for the GPU. So, I bought an EK Coolstream Rad with Corsair SP120's to go with. Having both of those in together ate at me. They were both black, but my OCD prevailed and now I have the XSPC siting in a box all lonely. Wound up getting another EK Coolstream. Once I start a new build...(waiting on the 8 core Haswell-E, X99, DDR4 to settle) I will probably go with the Noctua NF-A14 Industrial...10,52mm H2O Now that is some static pressure.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> I feel your pain... I had an XSPC 280 with some BitFenix Spectre Pro fans attached when only my CPU was under water, but then decided to go for a 780Ti and an additional rad for the GPU. So, I bought an EK Coolstream Rad with Corsair SP120's to go with. Having both of those in together ate at me. They were both black, but my OCD prevailed and now I have the XSPC siting in a box all lonely. Wound up getting another EK Coolstream. Once I start a new build...(waiting on the 8 core Haswell-E, X99, DDR4 to settle) I will probably go with the Noctua NF-A14 Industrial...10,52mm H2O Now that is some static pressure.


Yeah it sounds silly but I will.

Been thinking about this for a few hours. If I end up going with the RX I may just pick up an EX in the process. It's only sixty bucks and I have a limitation in the ceiling anyway.

Who knows for the last half hour or so I've actually been leaning back towards the alphacool. I'm just not sure if it's even possible to fully clean without the mayhems kit which I'd rather not buy.

Getting gunk in my loop is a huge fear too. Way too much money has been spent at this point to let something like that destroy everything.


----------



## sinnedone

Could always just go with another alphacool rad. You'll get that 1-2 degree better cooling and it will match.

Then just clean them well when you get them. None of these comapanies make their own rads so its really just personal preference.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Could always just go with another alphacool rad. You'll get that 1-2 degree better cooling and it will match.
> 
> Then just clean them well when you get them. None of these comapanies make their own rads so its really just personal preference.


Yeah. I got a day to decide. Appreciate the info.


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


What type of spray can did you use to paint your armor

Very nicely done


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> What type of spray can did you use to paint your armor
> 
> Very nicely done


That's come up here before. I believe snef is using white rustoleum.


Spoiler: See here:



Sand of God:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> they are matt Black, any Chrome color are little bit harder to paint correctly
> 
> sand with a 320 grid sand paper (gently)
> 
> put 2 layer of *Rust-Oleum white primer and 2 layer of Rust-Oleum Matt White*


Icy Blue Angel:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks to everyone
> 
> *I used rust-oleum white primer and mat white* spray can
> 
> They ave a lot of color, im sure you will find what you need


Icy Blue Angel II:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks Guys
> 
> a very little update this week end
> 
> Power Supply, this time I tried to paint it with a Gloss finish but still in white
> net the perfect finish as Hannoverfist but its still very good
> 
> pics quality not so good, took with my Iphone
> [...]


----------



## Jameswalt1

I'm sure a lot of people have seen these before but these are some awesome looking fittings from Rocket Science. Rocket Science specifically produces fittings for 1/2 inch (12.7mm) tubing, copper or acrylic. The fitting has a very narrow diameter and is reminiscent of a Bitspower C47. The C47 only comes in 12mm, so if you are using 1/2 inch copper tube in the united states or any of the 1/2 inch acrylic tube on the market it is an excellent alternative. The aforementioned narrow diameter is also identical to a C47 so when the fitting is paired with any of Bitspower rotaries it fits perfectly flush without hanging over the edge like Primochill's large diameter 1/2 inch fittings, for example.

Really nice, low key alternative to Primochill's and Monsoon's gargantuous 1/2 inch acrylic fittings. Functionality is identical to a C47. I'll be using them with plated copper.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Depends on the radiator. I had my coolant go blue in 2 months with Alphacool radiator. Did you run tap water both ways, and use some acid (lemon juice, vinegar)?


Yup, run both ways, then also use hot water & finally distilled water. I did not use any type of acid. I'll drain it this weekend. It's blood red dye, probably just staining causing the tube to loose transparency.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm sure a lot of people have seen these before but these are some awesome looking fittings from Rocket Science. Rocket Science specifically produces fittings for 1/2 inch (12.7mm) tubing, copper or acrylic. The fitting has a very narrow diameter and is reminiscent of a Bitspower C47. The C47 only comes in 12mm, so if you are using 1/2 inch copper tube in the united states or any of the 1/2 inch acrylic tube on the market it is an excellent alternative. The aforementioned narrow diameter is also identical to a C47 so when the fitting is paired with any of Bitspower rotaries it fits perfectly flush without hanging over the edge like Primochill's large diameter 1/2 inch fittings, for example.
> 
> Really nice, low key alternative to Primochill's and Monsoon's gargantuous 1/2 inch acrylic fittings. Functionality is identical to a C47. I'll be using them with plated copper.


Good to see people giving Saate some recognition for his great quality fittings! Especially coming from you. They match perfectly with any Bitspower adapters.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm sure a lot of people have seen these before but these are some awesome looking fittings from Rocket Science. Rocket Science specifically produces fittings for 1/2 inch (12.7mm) tubing, copper or acrylic. The fitting has a very narrow diameter and is reminiscent of a Bitspower C47. The C47 only comes in 12mm, so if you are using 1/2 inch copper tube in the united states or any of the 1/2 inch acrylic tube on the market it is an excellent alternative. The aforementioned narrow diameter is also identical to a C47 so when the fitting is paired with any of Bitspower rotaries it fits perfectly flush without hanging over the edge like Primochill's large diameter 1/2 inch fittings, for example.
> 
> Really nice, low key alternative to Primochill's and Monsoon's gargantuous 1/2 inch acrylic fittings. Functionality is identical to a C47. I'll be using them with plated copper.


Waiting for him to put out the black fittings he showed awhile ago







I enquired about them a few months back and he said they were a month-two away, still not here yet


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Waiting for him to put out the black fittings he showed awhile ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I enquired about them a few months back and he said they were a month-two away, still not here yet


I was just chatting with him on facebook, he has different shades arriving any day









Edit: He has black nickel fittings arriving tomorrow


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I was just chatting with him on facebook, he has different shades arriving any day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: He has black nickel fittings arriving tomorrow


I was holding back from the rocket science fittings because the finish was a bit too bright for me. Glad to hear there are going to be new finishes.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I was just chatting with him on facebook, he has different shades arriving any day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: He has black nickel fittings arriving tomorrow


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I was just chatting with him on facebook, he has different shades arriving any day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: He has black nickel fittings arriving tomorrow


Black Nickel? Now I'm interested!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm sure a lot of people have seen these before but these are some awesome looking fittings from Rocket Science. Rocket Science specifically produces fittings for 1/2 inch (12.7mm) tubing, copper or acrylic. The fitting has a very narrow diameter and is reminiscent of a Bitspower C47. The C47 only comes in 12mm, so if you are using 1/2 inch copper tube in the united states or any of the 1/2 inch acrylic tube on the market it is an excellent alternative. The aforementioned narrow diameter is also identical to a C47 so when the fitting is paired with any of Bitspower rotaries it fits perfectly flush without hanging over the edge like Primochill's large diameter 1/2 inch fittings, for example.
> 
> Really nice, low key alternative to Primochill's and Monsoon's gargantuous 1/2 inch acrylic fittings. Functionality is identical to a C47. I'll be using them with plated copper.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks James, good to know

But wow, they are very expensive, $8 each....pretty closed twice as Bitspower C47 price
and Bitspower are already expensive


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Could always just go with another alphacool rad. You'll get that 1-2 degree better cooling and it will match.
> 
> Then just clean them well when you get them. None of these comapanies make their own rads so its really just personal preference.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm sure a lot of people have seen these before but these are some awesome looking fittings from Rocket Science. Rocket Science specifically produces fittings for 1/2 inch (12.7mm) tubing, copper or acrylic. The fitting has a very narrow diameter and is reminiscent of a Bitspower C47. The C47 only comes in 12mm, so if you are using 1/2 inch copper tube in the united states or any of the 1/2 inch acrylic tube on the market it is an excellent alternative. The aforementioned narrow diameter is also identical to a C47 so when the fitting is paired with any of Bitspower rotaries it fits perfectly flush without hanging over the edge like Primochill's large diameter 1/2 inch fittings, for example.
> 
> Really nice, low key alternative to Primochill's and Monsoon's gargantuous 1/2 inch acrylic fittings. Functionality is identical to a C47. I'll be using them with plated copper.


You are about 3 months late James,Fast faye and myself have been spreading the love about those. If you like these then also look at the illumitube fittings kickstarter.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are about 3 months late James,Fast faye and myself have been spreading the love about those. If you like these then also look at the illumitube fittings kickstarter.


Awesome, Finally someone is doing this. I have been wondering about ways to illuminate tubes with internal LED's for ages.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Awesome, Finally someone is doing this. I have been wondering about ways to illuminate tubes with internal LED's for ages.


Pity only 7 people funded the campaign


----------



## grim.

I just finished my first attempt at an acrylic build so here's a couple of quick phone pics until I get some with a decent camera. I'm really pleased with how it came out and now I'm hooked on acrylic tubing, I think it just looks so much cleaner than my previous frolics with PVC.

Just a CPU loop currently with an alphacool nexxxos st30 360mm rad in the top and the 120 version at the back. I used all nb eloops because I like the look and they're nice and quiet. The 290x lightning will be getting the water treatment next month too if I can scrape together enough to buy the block and another radiator!

Excuse the cloudy coolant but I'm still flushing out the ice dragon nano I used in my test build.

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot2_zps37a055cd.jpg.html

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot_zps288ab06d.jpg.html


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> I just finished my first attempt at an acrylic build so here's a couple of quick phone pics until I get some with a decent camera. I'm really pleased with how it came out and now I'm hooked on acrylic tubing, I think it just looks so much cleaner than my previous frolics with PVC.
> 
> Just a CPU loop currently with an alphacool nexxxos st30 360mm rad in the top and the 120 version at the back. I used all nb eloops because I like the look and they're nice and quiet. The 290x lightning will be getting the water treatment next month too if I can scrape together enough to buy the block and another radiator!
> 
> Excuse the cloudy coolant but I'm still flushing out the ice dragon nano I used in my test build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot2_zps37a055cd.jpg.html
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot_zps288ab06d.jpg.html


Your bends look really good and nice parallel lines.
Nice work


----------



## Jakewat

@WiSK
I reckon he should try sell his concept to someone like monsoon, as they sort of have something similar atm, and make money that way. Also then people could probably expect a more polished and more attractive product.


----------



## jtom320

Dumb question.

If I want to make a drain line off my standalone pump/top is there anything stopping me from using the extra inlet or outlet for it without needing to do a T-Line? Seems like everyone does a t-line but it seems to me like a male to male fitting and one of those Bitspower valves off the extra inlet would work even better.


----------



## VSG

I would love to get the Rocket Science fittings. Anyone know if he has plans for a compression style fitting? Something low profile and yet compatible with 1/2" x 3/8" copper would be amazing. The existing Primochill and Monsoon fittings are too bulky in my opinion, even the budget Monsoon ones.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm sure a lot of people have seen these before but these are some awesome looking fittings from Rocket Science. Rocket Science specifically produces fittings for 1/2 inch (12.7mm) tubing, copper or acrylic. The fitting has a very narrow diameter and is reminiscent of a Bitspower C47. The C47 only comes in 12mm, so if you are using 1/2 inch copper tube in the united states or any of the 1/2 inch acrylic tube on the market it is an excellent alternative. The aforementioned narrow diameter is also identical to a C47 so when the fitting is paired with any of Bitspower rotaries it fits perfectly flush without hanging over the edge like Primochill's large diameter 1/2 inch fittings, for example.
> 
> Really nice, low key alternative to Primochill's and Monsoon's gargantuous 1/2 inch acrylic fittings. Functionality is identical to a C47. I'll be using them with plated copper.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Brilliant fittings - I love mine.

One thing to note, is that on previous batch, the O'Rings used on the male thread that does the sealing was a bit on the thin side for my liking.
I swapped all mine out for 9.65mm ID x 14.3mm OD o'rings and never had any issues.
I mentioned it to Matt and made one other recommendation for the new expected batch, so this new batch should be even better.

For Aussie buyers there was a RS RS batch that came in that was wrong size - not 1/2 "
They were in fact 12mm ID - which makes them an virtually identical to C47's and fit for use with 12 OD acrylic tube.
A buddy has them on his eBay store for $2.95 each with really cheap combined postage.
These have the new design and thicker O'Ring already - couldn't help myself and picked 2 dozen when I found out about them


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> I just finished my first attempt at an acrylic build so here's a couple of quick phone pics until I get some with a decent camera. I'm really pleased with how it came out and now I'm hooked on acrylic tubing, I think it just looks so much cleaner than my previous frolics with PVC.
> 
> Just a CPU loop currently with an alphacool nexxxos st30 360mm rad in the top and the 120 version at the back. I used all nb eloops because I like the look and they're nice and quiet. The 290x lightning will be getting the water treatment next month too if I can scrape together enough to buy the block and another radiator!
> 
> Excuse the cloudy coolant but I'm still flushing out the ice dragon nano I used in my test build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot2_zps37a055cd.jpg.html
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot_zps288ab06d.jpg.html


Very nice build, clean bends and smexy lightning!


----------



## everclearhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> I just finished my first attempt at an acrylic build so here's a couple of quick phone pics until I get some with a decent camera. I'm really pleased with how it came out and now I'm hooked on acrylic tubing, I think it just looks so much cleaner than my previous frolics with PVC.
> 
> Just a CPU loop currently with an alphacool nexxxos st30 360mm rad in the top and the 120 version at the back. I used all nb eloops because I like the look and they're nice and quiet. The 290x lightning will be getting the water treatment next month too if I can scrape together enough to buy the block and another radiator!
> 
> Excuse the cloudy coolant but I'm still flushing out the ice dragon nano I used in my test build.
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot2_zps37a055cd.jpg.html
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot_zps288ab06d.jpg.html


Nice job on the tubing! Looks awesome.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Can someone recommend a thicker O ring for Bitspower fittings/adapters? They aren't sealing well on the ST30 line of Alphacool rads that I have (I know, there are some vaild, strong opinions about Alphacool rads that I completely understand). Thanks in advance!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Getting closer. I am so ready to show off some work to this group.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Brilliant fittings - I love mine.
> 
> One thing to note, is that on previous batch, the O'Rings used on the male thread that does the sealing was a bit on the thin side for my liking.
> I swapped all mine out for 9.65mm ID x 14.3mm OD o'rings and never had any issues.
> I mentioned it to Matt and made one other recommendation for the new expected batch, so this new batch should be even better.
> 
> For Aussie buyers there was a RS RS batch that came in that was wrong size - not 1/2 "
> They were in fact 12mm ID - which makes them an virtually identical to C47's and fit for use with 12 OD acrylic tube.
> A buddy has them on his eBay store for $2.95 each with really cheap combined postage.
> These have the new design and thicker O'Ring already - couldn't help myself and picked 2 dozen when I found out about them


I bought some of those 12mm fittings but wasn't very happy with them. They don't seem to hold like other fittings. A BP or EK once the tube is in there is little wobble allowed but the copies can move around a fair bit.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I bought some of those 12mm fittings but wasn't very happy with them. They don't seem to hold like other fittings. A BP or EK once the tube is in there is little wobble allowed but the copies can move around a fair bit.


Good feedback - thanks for the heads up








I haven't looked at them yet


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer. I am so ready to show off some work to this group.


Our eyes are ready


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Guys, just a question....
Which fittings for acrylic you prefer... The new Alphacool HTC, or the old EK ones? (or the new EK ones?)

I'm planning my new build and don't decide between those two...


----------



## VSG

I don't know anyone here who has the new Alphacool fittings yet but note that they aren't interchangeable. Alphacool fittings are 1/2" x 3/8" apparently compared to the 10/12 and 12/16mm from EK.

Edit: I just saw this on TPU-
Quote:


> Asetek today announced that it has secured a design win with an undisclosed OEM customer for a graphics liquid cooling product. The ambitious project is forecasted by the customer to result in 2 - 4 million dollars of revenue. Shipping is scheduled to begin in the first half of 2015. The design win continues Asetek's success in the growing graphics liquid cooling market.
> 
> "We have been anticipating the rising importance of graphics card cooling for many years and building an OEM business requires patience. This design win is the largest single design win in the history of the company and a great example of our long term investments paying off," said André Sloth Eriksen, Founder and CEO of Asetek. "We expect the demand for graphics liquid cooling to increase and for it to make up an increasing portion of Asetek's Desktop business revenue."
> 
> Asetek's graphics cards liquid cooling enables graphics cards manufacturers to extract more performance at significantly lower noise levels, while maintaining industry standard graphics card form factors. Factory filled and sealed for maximum reliability and ease-of-use, Asetek's patented liquid coolers have been thoroughly tested and certified to operate without maintenance for over 50,000 hours.


A guy in the comments seems to think it is Dell who is going to offer liquid cooling in their Precision line desktops soon. I guess that's what the Asetek GPU block patent was for. Quadros + FirePros with a 120mm AIO


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Yes... The difference is the tubing, I know... Alphacool goes for 10/13 and EK for 10/12...
Maybe buy new tubes in the future for the Alphacool ones here in Spain will be more expensive...

So the best option will be the EK one...
Differences between the old model and the new one? (apart from aesthetics with that logo)


----------



## VSG

Old model is just push-in style with the tubing held by O-rings inside, newer ones have a compression collar as well.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys I dunno I'm still on the fence with the eLoops from research and feedback I've been asking around from other members , but I also decided to go 280+240 rad and there are no eLoop 140mm fans

I was looking into the Noctua Redux 140mm NF-P14S 1200rpm and 120mm NF-S12B 1200rpm. Are these really good for radiators ? And do they have any known buzzing,humming, or annoying sound frequency issues?


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Old model is just push-in style with the tubing held by O-rings inside, newer ones have a compression collar as well.


The old one is not a compression one with two pieces? Oops...
The I will go for the new ones


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Old model is just push-in style with the tubing held by O-rings inside, newer ones have a compression collar as well.












And the old one are a bit smaller in height and they have no logo!!! So you don't focus on the fittings when you first saw a build with them inside.
Regarding the efficiency of compression and push-in style, I never had any problems with any of those methods so far


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikazemonkey*
> 
> The old one is not a compression one with two pieces? Oops...
> The I will go for the new ones


Can you link me to what you think is old and new? Just wanted to be sure.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I bought some of those 12mm fittings but wasn't very happy with them. They don't seem to hold like other fittings. A BP or EK once the tube is in there is little wobble allowed but the copies can move around a fair bit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Good feedback - thanks for the heads up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't looked at them yet


*
EDIT* - I just chamfered a length of 12mm tube to try out the hold -
It's the12mm tube from same supplier and I measure it at 11.8mm
I'm finding that tube is slightly harder to get into the eBay one than a C47 I've got to compare with.
The C47 definitely has a better fell to it, especially going past the second O'Ring
I'm not really detecting any of the movement you mentioned.
The Bitspower seems to have a bit less O'Ring "grip" - pulls out easier than the other.

My conclusion - The C47's have a better feel when inserting the tube - more solid contact when it seats.
The other eBay ones - nothing that I can fault and will happily use.

Also, the Bitspower knurling is better in my opinion, sharper pointier finish, where as the other seems smoothed over and "blunt"


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Can you link me to what you think is old and new? Just wanted to be sure.


Of course...

The old ones:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/hard-tubing-connectors/hd-adapters/ek-hd-adapter-csq-10-12mm-black.html

The new ones:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-g1-4-black-nickel.html


----------



## VSG

Ya, I was right. The C in HDC is compression. Those are the new fittings


----------



## kamikazemonkey

I prefer the simple and squared look of the first primochill or the old EK ones.... But my other options are primochill revolver (the normal ones are too expensive for me) or the bitspower compression.... (hate the logos on the fittings... That's why my first option was the new Alphacool one.... But without any real opinion... Feel insecure)


----------



## kcuestag

Just hit 58ºC on my R9 290's (under water), and 3930k @ 4.5GHz hitting 71ºC max, while playing Battlefield 4. Something tells me 420mm + 240mm is too tight for this rig, but I can't fit more rads.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Just hit 58ºC on my R9 290's (under water), and 3930k @ 4.5GHz hitting 71ºC max, while playing Battlefield 4. Something tells me 420mm + 240mm is too tight for this rig, but I can't fit more rads.


What is your OC on your GPUs


----------



## Jameswalt1

Kind of watercooling related.... But awesome news either way

Parvum S2.0 now in stock at Performance PC's!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=PARVUM


----------



## morencyam

And let the wave of Parvum build pics begin


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Kind of watercooling related.... But awesome news either way
> 
> Parvum S2.0 now in stock at Performance PC's!
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=PARVUM


Sweet!


----------



## GaMbi2004

Interesting concept! makes me want to make my own design


----------



## ginger_nuts

I know cases are a personally choice etc.

But those cases do nothing for me, in looks.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I know cases are a personally choice etc.
> 
> But those cases do nothing for me, in looks.


Ya, me neither. I mean it's a nice case, but not for me. I prefer aluminum like Silverstone or Lian Li. I wish Lian Li would bring back the V-series.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What is your OC on your GPUs


None, they're at stock, only OC at the moment is on the CPU.









I think 420mm + 240mm is too tight for such wattage (I think it's like 800-900W at full load? Maybe a bit less), plus my room was at 30ºC at that time.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> None, they're at stock, only OC at the moment is on the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think 420mm + 240mm is too tight for such wattage (I think it's like 800-900W at full load? Maybe a bit less), plus my room was at 30ºC at that time.




Mount your radiator outside; CPU under water and GPU [GT610] on air. My room is warm too.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> 
> 
> Mount your radiator outside; CPU under water and GPU [GT610] on air. My room is warm too.


I don't think itll make a difference, there's too much heat to dissipate in my loop, each 290 consumes around 218W, plus the 3930k at 4.5GHz must take a lot of wattage too.









I think my issue is not enough radiators.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I don't think itll make a difference, there's too much heat to dissipate in my loop, each 290 consumes around 218W, plus the 3930k at 4.5GHz must take a lot of wattage too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think my issue is not enough radiators.


I have a GTX360 with 4000RPM Delta's. That should dissipate 1kW of heat.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> I have a GTX360 with 4000RPM Delta's. That should dissipate 1kW of heat.


Yeah, but my fans barely run over 900-1000 rpm.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Yeah, but my fans barely run over 900-1000 rpm.


That's the benefit of running them externally, you don't hear anything.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> That's the benefit of running them externally, you don't hear anything.


You mean outside the house or the room? Because having them outside the case will make no positive difference for noise, in fact, it could be even louder as it has no restriction from the case.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> You mean outside the house or the room? Because having them outside the case will make no positive difference for noise, in fact, it could be even louder as it has no restriction from the case.


Outside the house, I have my radiator in my garden 10m below my room.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Outside the house, I have my radiator in my garden 10m below my room.


That's awesome, but no chance I'm doing that.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Guys... a simple question:

http://www.aquatuning.es/refrigeracin-por-agua/ventilador-axial/16300/phobya-nb-eloop-1800rpm-bionic-luefter-black-edition-120x120x25mm?c=5903

VS

http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=2722


----------



## VSG

I would have to say go with the tried and tested eloops


----------



## Lefik

Yeah, the extra thickness over the slim vortex fans gives the eloops way more static pressure.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys I dunno I'm still on the fence with the eLoops from research and feedback I've been asking around from other members , but I also decided to go 280+240 rad and there are no eLoop 140mm fans
> 
> I was looking into the Noctua Redux 140mm NF-P14S 1200rpm and 120mm NF-S12B 1200rpm. Are these really good for radiators ? And do they have any known buzzing,humming, or annoying sound frequency issues?


Bump


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikazemonkey*
> 
> Guys... a simple question:
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.es/refrigeracin-por-agua/ventilador-axial/16300/phobya-nb-eloop-1800rpm-bionic-luefter-black-edition-120x120x25mm?c=5903
> 
> VS
> 
> http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=2722


I have a 140mm version of that prolimatech and it definitely moves a good amount of air. I would say as much as my cougar 140's at max rpm and same noise level, which is very quiet. How they would actually perform on a radiator is a different story.


----------



## skupples

Anyone know when BP is releasing their new DDC tops?


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikazemonkey*
> 
> Guys... a simple question:
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.es/refrigeracin-por-agua/ventilador-axial/16300/phobya-nb-eloop-1800rpm-bionic-luefter-black-edition-120x120x25mm?c=5903
> 
> VS
> 
> http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=2722


I'd almost go as far as saying that any 25mm thick fan is going to have better static pressure then that.

E-Loops no question. They are about as good as you can get right now.


----------



## IT Diva

Hi guys,

I need some feedback from those of you with some chiller experience . . . .

Planning to run two loops with a plate exchanger.

I'm setting up a warm side loop with the CPU/Mobo blocks, GPU blocks, a res, and a pair of PWM D5's on one side of a Koolance plate exchanger, . . . . and a cold side loop with the chiller, a res, and another pair of PWM D5's on the cold side of the exchanger.

I'm not looking at sub zero, or anything close, just enough cooling to keep the warm side loop fairly close to the dew point, without going below.

The cold side plumbing can be insulated and run to avoid possibly dripping on anything electrical.

My main question is how cold can the Bitspower acrylic dual pump tops be run . . . .

I bought the white acetal EK dual D5 top, planning to use it on the cold side loop, but it's huge and looks like a brick.

Worse, they don't make a pump hold down for it that allows the use of the nice nickel trim caps either, so it's a big industrial looking, off-white brick, with naked pumps. . . . . an aesthetic that just isn't working for me.

The warm side loop has the Bitspower acrylic dual D5 top and I'm wondering if I need to stay with an acetal top for the cold side, and get the Bitspower POM one, or if another acrylic top, like on the warm side, would be OK.

Looking at the plastics properties on McMaster shows acrylic good down to 0* C, and cast acrylic to -40, so the acrylic top should be OK, but maybe I missed something, so please help me out.

Darlene


----------



## Raul-7

Why don't you use an aquarium pump on the cold side?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikazemonkey*
> 
> Guys... a simple question:
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.es/refrigeracin-por-agua/ventilador-axial/16300/phobya-nb-eloop-1800rpm-bionic-luefter-black-edition-120x120x25mm?c=5903
> 
> VS
> 
> http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=2722


I have those prolimatech low profile and they can easily touch the rad with the blades. To install on it you most likely will have to decouple a bit. But why go for the slim profile if you are considering a 25 mm fan (e-loop)? Prolimatech have nice 25 mm fans which are quiet and push good air through a rad. It seems to me you are comparing apples to oranges which I mean the two models you point are very different fans...


----------



## iCrap

2 Builds today.

My friends Prodigy:


And my 800D


----------



## Lefik

The they both look great. Not very often that I like UV decor.


----------



## iCrap

Thanks








only my 800D is UV. the other one is LED lit.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Thanks for all the responses... As I imagine, eloops win the fight....

The reason to compare is that I'm moving to a rosewill rise (aquarium x90) with my Koolance RP1250, and the upper 240 rad will be a tight fit... I don't wanna mix fans on the case, so if I decide to go for one I will buy 6 of these
(my second option was going for 4 eloops and 2 prolimatech on top)

As I know that eloops fit, I will go for them.

And for the compression fittings.... I'm still deciding... Really like the look of Alphacool ones (cheaper and more easy to get, the rest don't have the amount that I need in my usual shops)
My only concern is that if I need more rubes in the future, find 10/13 tubes will be more expensive due the shipping cost(buying it from Aquatuning)


----------



## Red1776

A few Martinsliquidlab.org on the Alphacool nexXxos series performance, features, and build quality.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/15/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-360-radiator/


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Why don't you use an aquarium pump on the cold side?


Because I have the D5's handy, I can control them with the Aquaero. and they have a nice aesthetic.

An aquarium pump I'd have to go buy, they're noisy, and as yet, I see no particular advantage to using one over the D5's.

If there's something I'm missing there, I'm willing to learn.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I need some feedback from those of you with some chiller experience . . . .
> 
> Planning to run two loops with a plate exchanger.
> 
> I'm setting up a warm side loop with the CPU/Mobo blocks, GPU blocks, a res, and a pair of PWM D5's on one side of a Koolance plate exchanger, . . . . and a cold side loop with the chiller, a res, and another pair of PWM D5's on the cold side of the exchanger.
> 
> I'm not looking at sub zero, or anything close, just enough cooling to keep the warm side loop fairly close to the dew point, without going below.
> 
> The cold side plumbing can be insulated and run to avoid possibly dripping on anything electrical.
> 
> My main question is how cold can the Bitspower acrylic dual pump tops be run . . . .
> 
> I bought the white acetal EK dual D5 top, planning to use it on the cold side loop, but it's huge and looks like a brick.
> 
> Worse, they don't make a pump hold down for it that allows the use of the nice nickel trim caps either, so it's a big industrial looking, off-white brick, with naked pumps. . . . . an aesthetic that just isn't working for me.
> 
> The warm side loop has the Bitspower acrylic dual D5 top and I'm wondering if I need to stay with an acetal top for the cold side, and get the Bitspower POM one, or if another acrylic top, like on the warm side, would be OK.
> 
> Looking at the plastics properties on McMaster shows acrylic good down to 0* C, and cast acrylic to -40, so the acrylic top should be OK, but maybe I missed something, so please help me out.
> 
> Darlene


You should be fine as long as you are above zero.
Any reason you are adding d5 pumps on the cold side? Normally they get bundled with flojets.


----------



## ginger_nuts

IT Diva
This maybe of help, it's a dew point calculator
http://www.dpcalc.org/


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Because I have the D5's handy, I can control them with the Aquaero. and they have a nice aesthetic.
> 
> An aquarium pump I'd have to go buy, they're noisy, and as yet, I see no particular advantage to using one over the D5's.
> 
> If there's something I'm missing there, I'm willing to learn.
> 
> Darlene


Because a chiller requires a high flow rate and large fittings.

Not all aquarium pumps are noisy. Submersible ones are not.


----------



## madness777




----------



## Romanion

First custom water loop done!


----------



## Nilin404

My DA Inquisitor rig just got wet


----------



## Fieel

Finally updated my project log with my current build







(check my signature for the link!)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I need some feedback from those of you with some chiller experience . . . .
> 
> Planning to run two loops with a plate exchanger.
> 
> I'm setting up a warm side loop with the CPU/Mobo blocks, GPU blocks, a res, and a pair of PWM D5's on one side of a Koolance plate exchanger, . . . . and a cold side loop with the chiller, a res, and another pair of PWM D5's on the cold side of the exchanger.
> 
> I'm not looking at sub zero, or anything close, just enough cooling to keep the warm side loop fairly close to the dew point, without going below.
> 
> The cold side plumbing can be insulated and run to avoid possibly dripping on anything electrical.
> 
> My main question is how cold can the Bitspower acrylic dual pump tops be run . . . .
> 
> I bought the white acetal EK dual D5 top, planning to use it on the cold side loop, but it's huge and looks like a brick.
> 
> Worse, they don't make a pump hold down for it that allows the use of the nice nickel trim caps either, so it's a big industrial looking, off-white brick, with naked pumps. . . . . an aesthetic that just isn't working for me.
> 
> The warm side loop has the Bitspower acrylic dual D5 top and I'm wondering if I need to stay with an acetal top for the cold side, and get the Bitspower POM one, or if another acrylic top, like on the warm side, would be OK.
> 
> Looking at the plastics properties on McMaster shows acrylic good down to 0* C, and cast acrylic to -40, so the acrylic top should be OK, but maybe I missed something, so please help me out.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> You should be fine as long as you are above zero.
> Any reason you are adding d5 pumps on the cold side? Normally they get bundled with flojets.
Click to expand...

I got the 1/2HP Hailea chiller, but it has no pump with it . . . If The D5's don't work out well, I'll look at the other alternatives you guys mention.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> IT Diva
> This maybe of help, it's a dew point calculator
> http://www.dpcalc.org/


I have this Amprobe electronic instrument. It's wireless USB and keeps the software on the computer updated.

http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/products.htm?item=THWD10W&ref=gbase&gclid=CLHl3t77lcACFSMV7AodHCUAww

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Because I have the D5's handy, I can control them with the Aquaero. and they have a nice aesthetic.
> 
> An aquarium pump I'd have to go buy, they're noisy, and as yet, I see no particular advantage to using one over the D5's.
> 
> If there's something I'm missing there, I'm willing to learn.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Because a chiller requires a high flow rate and large fittings.
> 
> Not all aquarium pumps are noisy. Submersible ones are not.
Click to expand...

I can understand the concept of high flow / large fittings when the task is to cool a lot of water a fairly small amount, but to cool a small amount of water a fairly large amount, then it would seem that less flow with nominal 1/2" tubing and fittings wouldn't be too counterintuitive.

If you guys have some pump suggestions, in case the D5's I have already don't do a satisfactory job, please share.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I need some feedback from those of you with some chiller experience . . . .
> 
> Planning to run two loops with a plate exchanger.
> 
> I'm setting up a warm side loop with the CPU/Mobo blocks, GPU blocks, a res, and a pair of PWM D5's on one side of a Koolance plate exchanger, . . . . and a cold side loop with the chiller, a res, and another pair of PWM D5's on the cold side of the exchanger.
> 
> I'm not looking at sub zero, or anything close, just enough cooling to keep the warm side loop fairly close to the dew point, without going below.
> 
> The cold side plumbing can be insulated and run to avoid possibly dripping on anything electrical.
> 
> My main question is how cold can the Bitspower acrylic dual pump tops be run . . . .
> 
> I bought the white acetal EK dual D5 top, planning to use it on the cold side loop, but it's huge and looks like a brick.
> 
> Worse, they don't make a pump hold down for it that allows the use of the nice nickel trim caps either, so it's a big industrial looking, off-white brick, with naked pumps. . . . . an aesthetic that just isn't working for me.
> 
> The warm side loop has the Bitspower acrylic dual D5 top and I'm wondering if I need to stay with an acetal top for the cold side, and get the Bitspower POM one, or if another acrylic top, like on the warm side, would be OK.
> 
> Looking at the plastics properties on McMaster shows acrylic good down to 0* C, and cast acrylic to -40, so the acrylic top should be OK, but maybe I missed something, so please help me out.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> You should be fine as long as you are above zero.
> Any reason you are adding d5 pumps on the cold side? Normally they get bundled with flojets.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I got the 1/2HP Hailea chiller, but it has no pump with it . . . If The D5's don't work out well, I'll look at the other alternatives you guys mention.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> IT Diva
> This maybe of help, it's a dew point calculator
> http://www.dpcalc.org/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have this Amprobe electronic instrument. It's wireless USB and keeps the software on the computer updated.
> 
> http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/products.htm?item=THWD10W&ref=gbase&gclid=CLHl3t77lcACFSMV7AodHCUAww
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Because I have the D5's handy, I can control them with the Aquaero. and they have a nice aesthetic.
> 
> An aquarium pump I'd have to go buy, they're noisy, and as yet, I see no particular advantage to using one over the D5's.
> 
> If there's something I'm missing there, I'm willing to learn.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Because a chiller requires a high flow rate and large fittings.
> 
> Not all aquarium pumps are noisy. Submersible ones are not.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I can understand the concept of high flow / large fittings when the task is to cool a lot of water a fairly small amount, but to cool a small amount of water a fairly large amount, then it would seem that less flow with nominal 1/2" tubing and fittings wouldn't be too counterintuitive.
> 
> If you guys have some pump suggestions, in case the D5's I have already don't do a satisfactory job, please share.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

IWAKI RD Series.

Or the evergreen Flojet pumps


----------



## GaMbi2004

Since there is a lot of activity here and a LOT of knowledge folks, Im gonna ask a somewhat OT question.
Just to make what im about to ask not 100% off topic, Ill ask it like this:

If my Water cooling leaks, will a grounded connection help me in any way? (from the wall outlet to PSU)
I have been running ALL my PCs without a ground wire.. well the the wire is in the cable, but the plug is schuko and does not feed the wire to the ground in the danish wall outlet.

My question is: How important is the ground wire for a basic computer?
Should I:
A: Not worry about it
B: Change the plug to include the ground when I get the time
C: Pull the plug RIGHT NOW and dont put it back in before I have changed the plug.?

Could this potentially fry any of my hardware? course I have had my share of odd problems / burned GPUs in my PCs over the years.
Thanks ya'll


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/products.htm?item=THWD10W&ref=gbase&gclid=CLHl3t77lcACFSMV7AodHCUAww
> I can understand the concept of high flow / large fittings when the task is to cool a lot of water a fairly small amount, but to cool a small amount of water a fairly large amount, then it would seem that less flow with nominal 1/2" tubing and fittings wouldn't be too counterintuitive.
> 
> If you guys have some pump suggestions, in case the D5's I have already don't do a satisfactory job, please share.
> 
> Darlene


The chiller is not designed to be continuously on. In an aquarium setting, the chiller only comes one once every couple of hours. The way you have it, it will wear out the chiller.

Get a large reservoir, like a 50G drum for the cold side. Let the chiller cool it to your desired temperature. Then pump that water into a heat exchanger.


----------



## Ksireaper

I have a .999 silver kill coil in my loop, but turn my machine off every day. Will it still prevent growth while the machine is turned of or am i going to have to get a biocide?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Since there is a lot of activity here and a LOT of knowledge folks, Im gonna ask a somewhat OT question.
> Just to make what im about to ask not 100% off topic, Ill ask it like this:
> 
> If my Water cooling leaks, will a grounded connection help me in any way? (from the wall outlet to PSU)
> I have been running ALL my PCs without a ground wire.. well the the wire is in the cable, but the plug is schuko and does not feed the wire to the ground in the danish wall outlet.
> 
> My question is: How important is the ground wire for a basic computer?
> Should I:
> A: Not worry about it
> B: Change the plug to include the ground when I get the time
> C: Pull the plug RIGHT NOW and dont put it back in before I have changed the plug.?
> 
> Could this potentially fry any of my hardware? course I have had my share of odd problems / burned GPUs in my PCs over the years.
> Thanks ya'll


http://www.epanorama.net/documents/pc/ungrounded_pc.html


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*
> 
> I have a .999 silver kill coil in my loop, but turn my machine off every day. Will it still prevent growth while the machine is turned of or am i going to have to get a biocide?


I do the same thing and I've been running it that way for nearly a year. I have yet to see any growth in it and I just broke it down last weekend for the annual purge and clean that I do. I think you'll be fine because for the short period of time that it's off there are still enough silver ions in the coolant to prevent growth.


----------



## Ksireaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I do the same thing and I've been running it that way for nearly a year. I have yet to see any growth in it and I just broke it down last weekend for the annual purge and clean that I do. I think you'll be fine because for the short period of time that it's off there are still enough silver ions in the coolant to prevent growth.


Awesome, Just what i wanted to know. Ty. +rep!!


----------



## Qu1ckset

So I'm guessing we have to wait till Monday/Tuesday to see what EK's up with the no stock for CPU blocks?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/products.htm?item=THWD10W&ref=gbase&gclid=CLHl3t77lcACFSMV7AodHCUAww
> I can understand the concept of high flow / large fittings when the task is to cool a lot of water a fairly small amount, but to cool a small amount of water a fairly large amount, then it would seem that less flow with nominal 1/2" tubing and fittings wouldn't be too counterintuitive.
> 
> If you guys have some pump suggestions, in case the D5's I have already don't do a satisfactory job, please share.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> The chiller is not designed to be continuously on. In an aquarium setting, the chiller only comes one once every couple of hours. The way you have it, it will wear out the chiller.
> 
> Get a large reservoir, like a 50G drum for the cold side. Let the chiller cool it to your desired temperature. Then pump that water into a heat exchanger.
Click to expand...

Incorrect,the Hailea chillers are fine for continuous operation although its good practice to avoid this.

Darlene,Specialtech have a whole section of Hailea bits.

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Water-Chillers-cid-1904.html


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Incorrect,the Hailea chillers are fine for continuous operation although its good practice to avoid this.
> 
> Darlene,Specialtech have a whole section of Hailea bits.
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Water-Chillers-cid-1904.html


Full speed 24/7? That's probably never going to happen but I wanted to know about the worst case scenario.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/products.htm?item=THWD10W&ref=gbase&gclid=CLHl3t77lcACFSMV7AodHCUAww
> I can understand the concept of high flow / large fittings when the task is to cool a lot of water a fairly small amount, but to cool a small amount of water a fairly large amount, then it would seem that less flow with nominal 1/2" tubing and fittings wouldn't be too counterintuitive.
> 
> If you guys have some pump suggestions, in case the D5's I have already don't do a satisfactory job, please share.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> The chiller is not designed to be continuously on. In an aquarium setting, the chiller only comes one once every couple of hours. The way you have it, it will wear out the chiller.
> 
> Get a large reservoir, like a 50G drum for the cold side. Let the chiller cool it to your desired temperature. Then pump that water into a heat exchanger.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Incorrect,the Hailea chillers are fine for continuous operation although its good practice to avoid this.
> 
> Darlene,Specialtech have a whole section of Hailea bits.
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Water-Chillers-cid-1904.html
Click to expand...

Ahhhhh, . . . .

1 detail that I didn't mention, because it wasn't relevant to how cold the acrylic pump tops would be OK for in the original post, but might now have some relevance to the chiller cycling/long term running discussion, . . .

Is that there's a 360 rad in the warm loop, which should offer adequate cooling for web surfing, emails, and mundane usage, with the plan being, to have the Aquaero, (thru suitable control circuitry) start and stop the chiller based on delta t, so that the chiller only runs when the rad can't manage to maintain a preset max dt. That should keep the chiller within a very reasonable duty cycle, since I turn the pc off when I'm not home, and don't fold or mine.

Kind of like a turbo on the cooling system, just sits there looking cool, . . . waiting until you need the boost.

I'll have to see if Specialtech would even ship to the Caribbean . . . only a few shops do. . . . and then shipping could be a deal breaker.

PPCs has the Hailea up to the 1/2HP model that I got, and if I need more capacity, I could get another one.

Darlene


----------



## LiquidHaus

In went the 1600w G2 and 3rd 7970











Many thanks to @EVGA-JacobF for the help with the cable situation. I owe you!









Though I do think it is time to go hard lines now. I'll need to school myself on them though.

And I really need to update my build log LOL


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> In went the 1600w G2 and 3rd 7970
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks to @EVGA-JacobF for the help with the cable situation. I owe you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though I do think it is time to go hard lines now. I'll need to school myself on them though.
> 
> And I really need to update my build log LOL


Nice clean build you have there! Loving the classic top mounted PSU lol


----------



## Render33

Congrats, but be warned after a few months you'll be wanting to do more to it


----------



## Maintenance Bot

Here's mine. Add me when you can. Thanks!


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> In went the 1600w G2 and 3rd 7970
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks to @EVGA-JacobF for the help with the cable situation. I owe you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though I do think it is time to go hard lines now. I'll need to school myself on them though.
> 
> And I really need to update my build log LOL


Well that's a very (e)loopy set up.


----------



## DoktorTerror

New fittings Bitspower



   

Features:
1. Quick And Easy To Use.
2. True Hi-Flow Design.
3. Hi Quality Brass Material.
4. High Durability Nickel Finished In Silver Shining Color.
5. Hiding O-Ring Design.
6. World The Only One And PAT. Approval Quick Compression Fitting Designed For Tube ID 1/2" OD 3/4" Wall 1/8".
7. RoHS Compliant.

These new fittings are much lighter and smaller.
The new closure "quick" is exceptional and faster tightening.

I created a comparison with the classic series.





 

 

 

This is a great job for those who love large tubes.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> New fittings Bitspower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Features:
> 1. Quick And Easy To Use.
> 2. True Hi-Flow Design.
> 3. Hi Quality Brass Material.
> 4. High Durability Nickel Finished In Silver Shining Color.
> 5. Hiding O-Ring Design.
> 6. World The Only One And PAT. Approval Quick Compression Fitting Designed For Tube ID 1/2" OD 3/4" Wall 1/8".
> 7. RoHS Compliant.
> 
> These new fittings are much lighter and smaller.
> The new closure "quick" is exceptional and faster tightening.
> 
> I created a comparison with the classic series.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a great job for those who love large tubes.


any MSRP?


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> any MSRP?


in Europe are on sale for about 13€


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Already been posted in this thread,check before sponsor dumping in here please.


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Already been posted in this thread,check before sponsor dumping in here please.


was posted photos of the manufacturer.
these are my photos with comparison.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> in Europe are on sale for about 13€


per piece of per 4 pack or what? 13Euro a piece is like 17$ that would be so expensive


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> per piece of per 4 pack or what? 13Euro a piece is like 17$ that would be so expensive


one piece
http://www.highflow.nl/?subcats=Y&type=extended&status=A&pshort=N&pfull=N&pname=Y&pkeywords=N&pcodes=Y&search_performed=Y&cid=0&q=qcc5&x=0&y=0&dispatch=products.search

I do not know how they decide the price


----------



## Ramzinho

wow this is absurdly expensive imo. 13 Euros means it might end up 15$ a piece or 16.. that is absurdly expensive imo


----------



## DarthBaggins

looking at those prices I might just stick w/ looking to get Primo's Ghost fittings (for the Mini Baggins)


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> New fittings Bitspower
> 
> Features:
> 1. Quick And Easy To Use.
> 2. True Hi-Flow Design.
> 3. Hi Quality Brass Material.
> 4. High Durability Nickel Finished In Silver Shining Color.
> 5. Hiding O-Ring Design.
> 6. World The Only One And PAT. Approval Quick Compression Fitting Designed For Tube ID 1/2" OD 3/4" Wall 1/8".
> 7. RoHS Compliant.
> 
> These new fittings are much lighter and smaller.
> The new closure "quick" is exceptional and faster tightening.
> 
> I created a comparison with the classic series.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a great job for those who love large tubes.


Any comparison pics with tubing installed or used in a build?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any comparison picks with tubing installed or used in a build?


Yeah I suspect it won't be long before we see complaints that the new BP fittings either won't work with or will break when trying to use with some tubing. That bayonet mounting just looks like a really bad idea to me. I can't picture those little tabs being able to hold up to the stress of trying to fit the compression ring down over some fat/thick/hard tubing like some Advanced LRT.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I suspect it won't be long before we see complaints that the new BP fittings either won't work with or will break when trying to use with some tubing. That bayonet mounting just looks like a really bad idea to me. I can't picture those little tabs being able to hold up to the stress of trying to fit the compression ring down over some fat/thick/hard tubing like some Advanced LRT.


isn't it working for monsoon already? besides terrible looking i think they are working as intended.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I suspect it won't be long before we see complaints that the new BP fittings either won't work with or will break when trying to use with some tubing. That bayonet mounting just looks like a really bad idea to me. I can't picture those little tabs being able to hold up to the stress of trying to fit the compression ring down over some fat/thick/hard tubing like some Advanced LRT.


With my experience with compression fittings , some times it's insanely hard to thread closed a compression fitting all the way flush.... So I agree with you're concerns...


----------



## Nilin404

dip the tubing in a cup of boiling water and you'll be fine.....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> isn't it working for monsoon already? besides terrible looking i think they are working as intended.


Hmm? If so I'm unaware of them. The only Monsoon fittings I've used are their 'free center' and 'chain gun' which have compression rings that screw on like every other compression fitting I've seen before.


----------



## superericla

It's been a while since I've posted in here. Looks like everything is about the same as when I left.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Because I have the D5's handy, I can control them with the Aquaero. and they have a nice aesthetic.
> 
> An aquarium pump I'd have to go buy, they're noisy, and as yet, I see no particular advantage to using one over the D5's.
> 
> If there's something I'm missing there, I'm willing to learn.
> 
> Darlene


My D5 on my cold loop has had no problems at 0c, although I am using the stock top. Runs 24/7, from 0c-15c depending on where I set it. They are extremely robust pumps. I would stay away from acrylic - not only does it get brittle at low temps but it is very sensitive to most chemicals used to lower freezing point like Ethanol. Acetel and delrin will be fine.

Dew point will be around 10c in most areas with AC. I've seen as low as ~5c on a cold dry morning and as high as 14c on hot and rainy days. I keep dew point control on for normal use so I don't waste a ton of power for just web browsing or idling.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Got some real pics of my build now... using my D3200...


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> was posted photos of the manufacturer.
> these are my photos with comparison.


Thanks for sharing







, usual bitspower pricing though :l.


----------



## skupples

wait, how do you prevent condensation when pumping 0c exactly? is that what the heat exchanger is for?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wait, how do you prevent condensation when pumping 0c exactly? is that what the heat exchanger is for?


Wrap the tubing in condensation sleeve,it soaks up any dew.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wait, how do you prevent condensation when pumping 0c exactly? is that what the heat exchanger is for?


That is what insulation is for. Should realistically be used whenever below ambient temp. Both to prevent drops and to improve temp.


----------



## Gualichu04

Is it normal for the 2nd gpu to be 5C hotter than the top one. I am running my r9 290x;'s in series. I wonder if parallel would yield better temps. Seems i need to move the fittings for the kyoconnect block since they need to be on same side as the plug to block one of the water channels. Hopefully i don't need to remount the gpu also.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Is it normal for the 2nd gpu to be 5C hotter than the top one. I am running my r9 290x;'s in series. I wonder if parallel would yield better temps. Seems i need to move the fittings for the kyoconnect block since they need to be on same side as the plug to block one of the water channels. Hopefully i don't need to remount the gpu also.


That is normal for series cooling. Parallel cooling should give pretty similar temps across both GPU's.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> That is normal for series cooling. Parallel cooling should give pretty similar temps across both GPU's.


I had the fitting on the wrong side of the kryo block they are within 2C of each other now.







under 40C idle at 78F ambient.


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> I had the fitting on the wrong side of the kryo block they are within 2C of each other now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> under 40C idle at 78F ambient.


I'm curious what your load temps are? I just put the same two blocks in serial. Running 290s though. I just ran Heaven for four hours and hit 52 celcius on the hottest card. This is with two 360 rads.

Pretty satisfied. Figure I may get another degree or so once I can finally find the active backplates.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I'm curious what your load temps are? I just put the same two blocks in serial. Running 290s though. I just ran Heaven for four hours and hit 52 celcius on the hottest card. This is with two 360 rads.
> 
> Pretty satisfied. Figure I may get another degree or so once I can finally find the active backplates.


I get roughly 55-58C on the core while playing watch dogs One gpu is 1-2C warmer than the other. But i only have a 240 and 360 radiator. and my ambient is 25.5C to 26.6C 78-80F.
In heaven i get 52-55C on the core and 49C max on VRM 1 on the hottest card. This is with a 1150mhz core and 1300mhz memory overclock with poerlimit at +50% and +69mv
Here is is a picture of it properly setup without the coolant which I will add once I am sure there are no leaks.


----------



## ikem




----------



## Raul-7

Love it.









Nothing beats a watercooled Lian Li case.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing looking, nice job!


----------



## jtom320

So I finally pretty much finished my build. The next step for me is definitely Acrylic. Kind of wish I'd taken the plunge but pretty happy all things considered.

I would like to add the active backplates to my card but who knows when they will be available.

A lot of people in this thread helped me and the build wouldn't have even been possible without a big contribution from a local member of OCN. Thanks for everyone's advice. My cellphone pics don't do this thing justice.


----------



## jeffblute

Looking pretty good Jtom320, it's kinda funny because I want to switch from atx to micro atx myself


----------



## Jeronbernal

Been noticing a shortage of ek supremacys in the US. not sure if it's the same across the pond, I'm guessing it might be because of a new release or a revision?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Been noticing a shortage of ek supremacys in the US. not sure if it's the same across the pond, I'm guessing it might be because of a new release or a revision?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> So I finally pretty much finished my build. The next step for me is definitely Acrylic. Kind of wish I'd taken the plunge but pretty happy all things considered.
> 
> I would like to add the active backplates to my card but who knows when they will be available.
> 
> A lot of people in this thread helped me and the build wouldn't have even been possible without a big contribution from a local member of OCN. Thanks for everyone's advice. My cellphone pics don't do this thing justice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Moar pics - snip


Wow that kryoconnect bridge is an odd one. Looking at it it looks like you have the hoses so that there would be no flow actually going through the GPU blocks, but having read your earlier posts about temps I assume you do have it right and that the bridge somehow flips/reverses the flow inside it somewhere between the top and bottom block so that the flow is in series through both blocks with the inlet and outlet on the same side. Does it have some sort of blocking plate / screw that does that? Something that can be changed/removed so that the block can be used for running the blocks in parallel?


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow that kryoconnect bridge is an odd one. Looking at it it looks like you have the hoses so that there would be no flow actually going through the GPU blocks, but having read your earlier posts about temps I assume you do have it right and that the bridge somehow flips/reverses the flow inside it somewhere between the top and bottom block so that the flow is in series through both blocks with the inlet and outlet on the same side. Does it have some sort of blocking plate / screw that does that? Something that can be changed/removed so that the block can be used for running the blocks in parallel?


Yes here's a picture.



I've gotten about the same temps running it both ways. When I finally get the backplates I may switch it back. Just gotta decide which I like the look of better since performance is about the same.
Quote:


> Looking pretty good Jtom320, it's kinda funny because I want to switch from atx to micro atx myself thumb.gif


All things considered I may like mATX more. And definitely want to try Mini.

Thing is my 350D even with two 240s in it did not have the capability to really cool Hawaii GPUs to where I wanted it to.

I think I may pull out my DSLR and take some pictures in good light. The terrible flash just ruins those pics. It's quite clean and shiny in person.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> ........


Where is your radiator? OCN mobile doesn't allow me to open a bigger pic.









Not sure how you could fit 2p plus Watercooling in there with so little room down below.

Good looking V1000 either way.


----------



## jtom320

Also for future reference does anyone have advice for tightening Bitspower compression fittings?

I'm almost tempted to take a picture of it. My thumb is like gashed in five spots. Couldn't get a good enough grip with cloth and by the end could barely force myself to tighten.

Probably just need to move onto acrylic as I've gotten quite jealous of a lot of the recent builds I've seen utilizing it.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Also for future reference does anyone have advice for tightening Bitspower compression fittings?
> 
> I'm almost tempted to take a picture of it. My thumb is like gashed in five spots. Couldn't get a good enough grip with cloth and by the end could barely force myself to tighten.
> 
> Probably just need to move onto acrylic as I've gotten quite jealous of a lot of the recent builds I've seen utilizing it.


put a little silicone grease on the outside of the tubing. The collar will screw down a lot easier.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Yes here's a picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've gotten about the same temps running it both ways. When I finally get the backplates I may switch it back. Just gotta decide which I like the look of better since performance is about the same.
> All things considered I may like mATX more. And definitely want to try Mini.
> 
> Thing is my 350D even with two 240s in it did not have the capability to really cool Hawaii GPUs to where I wanted it to.
> 
> I think I may pull out my DSLR and take some pictures in good light. The terrible flash just ruins those pics. It's quite clean and shiny in person.


Thanks for that. Makes sense now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Also for future reference does anyone have advice for tightening Bitspower compression fittings?
> 
> I'm almost tempted to take a picture of it. My thumb is like gashed in five spots. Couldn't get a good enough grip with cloth and by the end could barely force myself to tighten.
> 
> Probably just need to move onto acrylic as I've gotten quite jealous of a lot of the recent builds I've seen utilizing it.


^---v I've been recommending this since forever ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Coated palm work gloves are worth their weight in gold imho when assembling a build (or working on anything really, like replacing a faucet or a car battery or ...). They don't cost much at all (I buy them by the dozen for < $2 a pr), are comfortable and have a 'grip' surface on the palms/fingers that doesn't get in the way even when working with tiny parts/screws/nuts, keep fingerprints off everything, and totally save your fingers from turning into hamburger from twisting and tightening compressions, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> I've gotten so used to using them that my hands feel naked without them whenever I'm working on pretty much anything. I literally keep new pairs here, there, and everywhere.
> 
> Tip: Wear them small-sized / tight-fitting for your hands.


FWIW I usually buy coated palm work gloves in sets of a dozen or so for ~$2-$3 a pr off of ebay or discounted from a workplace safety supplier. They are a cut-resistant stretch fabric with a grip coating that helps grab onto things like spiderman grabbing a wall. lol. OK, maybe not that much but they sure make tasks like tightening compressions easy-peasy.

I like to wear them really tight fitting so I can still grab small items like nuts, screws or a paperclip just as easy as if I had no gloves on (plus, if I ever kill anyone wearing them I can pretend like OJ that they don't fit







).


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Thanks for that. Makes sense now.
> ^---v I've been recommending this since forever ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW I usually buy coated palm work gloves in sets of a dozen or so for ~$2-$3 a pr off of ebay or discounted from a workplace safety supplier. They are a cut-resistant stretch fabric with a grip coating that helps grab onto things like spiderman grabbing a wall. lol. OK, maybe not that much but they sure make tasks like tightening compressions easy-peasy.
> 
> I like to wear them really tight fitting so I can still grab small items like nuts, screws or a paperclip just as easy as if I had no gloves on (plus, if I ever kill anyone wearing them I can pretend like OJ that they don't fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Ok excellent advice thank you I will order some. I'll get some and some silicone grease for the backplate job whenever that happens.

Also this is kind of gross but I know someone who's been there will get a kick out of it. Looks bad up close like this but it's really not more then a couple scrapes. From screwing in these Bitspowers.

Yes I wanted to get this done really bad. This is probably against the rules to post don't click if you don't want to see a scratched up thumb.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## iBored

Help! what's this green stuff in my rad?
It stained the threads on my fittings and I haven't even filled the loop.


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Help! what's this green stuff in my rad?
> It stained the threads on my fittings and I haven't even filled the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is your rad made out of copper ? might be oxidation: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_carbonate


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Is your rad made out of copper ? might be oxidation: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_carbonate


Its a Black Ice SR-1 360, so i think its brass.
My other SR-1 240 doesn't have this problem though.


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Where is your radiator? OCN mobile doesn't allow me to open a bigger pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how you could fit 2p plus Watercooling in there with so little room down below.
> 
> Good looking V1000 either way.


v1200. everything runs off a 360 on the top. Folding on cpus and gpus nets a 42C max temp. Coolermaster Blademasters at the top.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> v1200. everything runs off a 360 on the top. Folding on cpus and gpus nets a 42C max temp. Coolermaster Blademasters at the top.


O cool. Should have known it was a v1200. V1000 isn't EATX.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> All things considered I may like mATX more. And definitely want to try Mini.
> 
> Thing is my 350D even with two 240s in it did not have the capability to really cool Hawaii GPUs to where I wanted it to.
> 
> I think I may pull out my DSLR and take some pictures in good light. The terrible flash just ruins those pics. It's quite clean and shiny in person.


I bet those 290s are running nice and warm, my old 6950 cf setup I had underwater was running hotter then the 780 I replaced them with. I think I am to the point where I am just going to stick with running one solid card at a time and downsize to micro so I don't have to get all new rads and gear.

Currently waiting on a friend to buy my current rig waiting to get the z97 Maximus gene and 4690K and throwing it all in a FD Mini R2. I think a 360/240 should have no problem with that!


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> I bet those 290s are running nice and warm, my old 6950 cf setup I had underwater was running hotter then the 780 I replaced them with. I think I am to the point where I am just going to stick with running one solid card at a time and downsize to micro so I don't have to get all new rads and gear.
> 
> Currently waiting on a friend to buy my current rig waiting to get the z97 Maximus gene and 4690K and throwing it all in a FD Mini R2. I think a 360/240 should have no problem with that!


With the dual 240s they were reaching up into the mid 60s. Now they are in the low 50s and that's with me burning them as hard as I can.

And yeah that much rad space will be more then adequate for your planned set up. I'm actually not a huge fan of dual card configs but 290s were so cheap a couple months ago I couldn't help picking two up. Performance is really great when it works which it does most of the time.


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> With the dual 240s they were reaching up into the mid 60s. Now they are in the low 50s and that's with me burning them as hard as I can.
> 
> And yeah that much rad space will be more then adequate for your planned set up. I'm actually not a huge fan of dual card configs but 290s were so cheap a couple months ago I couldn't help picking two up. Performance is really great when it works which it does most of the time.


man... i guess my system just runs cool for some reason, because 360mm of rad space is all I needed for mine.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Would love to see what my numbers would be on my cards under water,I know folding my CPU is at mid 60's and oc'd and the GPUs run 50's on air


----------



## spikezone2004

Just redid my loop here it is:


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> My D5 on my cold loop has had no problems at 0c, although I am using the stock top. Runs 24/7, from 0c-15c depending on where I set it. They are extremely robust pumps. I would stay away from acrylic - not only does it get brittle at low temps but it is very sensitive to most chemicals used to lower freezing point like Ethanol. Acetel and delrin will be fine.
> 
> Dew point will be around 10c in most areas with AC. I've seen as low as ~5c on a cold dry morning and as high as 14c on hot and rainy days. I keep dew point control on for normal use so I don't waste a ton of power for just web browsing or idling.


Good to know! I was running a pair of the old DD style pumps in my chiller set-up and the bearings (rather magnet) would freeze with continuous use @ ~ 2*C. Was thinking of dropping the big $$ on one of those marine grade gear pumps, but I may give the D5 a shot now


----------



## Alex132

Planning to re-do my loop without my GPU so far.
I have a MCP655 pump + EK X3 250ml res + Ray Storm CPU block + RX360.

This is my planned idea to avoid my GPU's heat as much as possible:


Spoiler: best idea I can think of so far







Only problem is that I have 28cm in total of clearance in those 5.25" bays - the res is 25cm tall... This will make for some HARD filling of the loop, but I can always fill it and then put the res in place.. I hope.

Thoughts?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Planning to re-do my loop without my GPU so far.
> I have a MCP655 pump + EK X3 250ml res + Ray Storm CPU block + RX360.
> 
> This is my planned idea to avoid my GPU's heat as much as possible:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: best idea I can think of so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I realise the outlet of the pump wont be a comp fitting btw)
> 
> 
> 
> Only problem is that I have 28cm in total of clearance in those 5.25" bays - the res is 25cm tall... This will make for some HARD filling of the loop, but I can always fill it and then put the res in place.. I hope.
> 
> Thoughts?


First off, I would have moved the reservoir to the location between the front of your GPU and the case it self, so it will be more "directly" over your pump. And I would have considered doing a few more 45 and 90 degree angled fittings (if you are using soft tubing you will get less bending in your loop and more straight passes), it looks much better. Or do it the right way to start with, just forget soft tubing and use hard tubing of some sort (either acrylic or copper tubing). With that GTX 690 I am sure you have the money for it too.

If it is an alternative I would have done XSPC-dual bay reservoir for one D5 pump, then you could put another radiator in the bottom apartment of your case and water cool your GPU too.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Planning to re-do my loop without my GPU so far.
> I have a MCP655 pump + EK X3 250ml res + Ray Storm CPU block + RX360.
> 
> This is my planned idea to avoid my GPU's heat as much as possible:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: best idea I can think of so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I realise the outlet of the pump wont be a comp fitting btw)
> 
> 
> 
> Only problem is that I have 28cm in total of clearance in those 5.25" bays - the res is 25cm tall... This will make for some HARD filling of the loop, but I can always fill it and then put the res in place.. I hope.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> First off, I would have moved the reservoir to the location between the front of your GPU and the case it self, so it will be more "directly" over your pump. And I would have considered doing a few more 45 and 90 degree angled fittings (if you are using soft tubing you will get less bending in your loop and more straight passes), it looks much better. Or do it the right way to start with, just forget soft tubing and use hard tubing of some sort (either acrylic or copper tubing). With that GTX 690 I am sure you have the money for it too.
> 
> If it is an alternative I would have done XSPC-dual bay reservoir for one D5 pump, then you could put another radiator in the bottom apartment of your case and water cool your GPU too.
Click to expand...

Long-story short I basically cannot watercool the 690 because of how pathetic the screw were on it (all stripped in seconds with no force applied).

And I was worried about the heat being dumped from my 690 that will be directly hitting the reservoir.


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Long-story short I basically cannot watercool the 690 because of how pathetic the screw were on it (all stripped in seconds with no force applied).
> 
> And I was worried about the heat being dumped from my 690 that will be directly hitting the reservoir.


You did use correct Torx screwdriver, right?

I would try screw extractor (or "screw grab" adhesive), or, as the last resort, just drill them out.

You gave up too soon.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalbard*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Long-story short I basically cannot watercool the 690 because of how pathetic the screw were on it (all stripped in seconds with no force applied).
> 
> And I was worried about the heat being dumped from my 690 that will be directly hitting the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> You did use correct Torx screwdriver, right?
> 
> I would try screw extractor (or "screw grab" adhesive), or, as the last resort, just drill them out.
> 
> You gave up too soon.
Click to expand...

I have already tried all those methods, nothing worked sadly.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> ........
> 
> 
> 
> Where is your radiator? OCN mobile doesn't allow me to open a bigger pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how you could fit 2p plus Watercooling in there with so little room down below.
> 
> Good looking V1000 either way.
Click to expand...

How come you dont select to load desktop version on your mobile device?


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wait, how do you prevent condensation when pumping 0c exactly? is that what the heat exchanger is for?


Lots of insulation.

Ugly, but necessary. Iron Man helps keep an eye on things just in case of emergency







. Just took this in a dim room with my cell, excuse the crappy quality.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Long-story short I basically cannot watercool the 690 because of how pathetic the screw were on it (all stripped in seconds with no force applied).
> 
> And I was worried about the heat being dumped from my 690 that will be directly hitting the reservoir.


I highly doubt that your GTX 690 can put out that much heat that the reservoir and all the water in it will rise all that much (just because of passively cooled air). If you had R9 290X's with stock cooler I would have been more worried (I had four of them on air and that is insane, you cannot belive how hot it got). The stock cooler on the GTX 690 is not that bad, is it?

Anyways, drill always works when it comes to getting out screws (I used a drill to get out a screw in my old waterblock) that I had driven to far "down" in the block so the threads was busted, drilled them right out and voilá they just "fell" off. I would not recommend it if you do like your GPU though, anyways, the GPU still work (old GTX 660 Ti).


----------



## VSG

Drilling is one of the worst things to do with stripped screws, it only makes it worse in most cases since you can't drill into a lot of things (like a GTX 690). The best way I have found is a dremel/cutting blade to widen the holes enough for a large flat head screwdriver to get enough traction. Using WD-40 also helps. But this is all moot if you have countersunk screws.


----------



## grim.

I had a bit of a lan party this weekend and a friend of mine took a few pics of my new build this with his decent camera. Just a couple of close ups of the water loop because the lightning wasn't great. I already put some pics up taken with my phone earlier in the week so I'm just whoring out some more as I'm pleased with it









He's keen to try and get some more pictures under more sober conditions and with better lightning so I'll probably put some more up later in the week showing the whole thing.

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy3_zps3c8f77fc.jpg.html

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy6_zpse4b4f098.jpg.html

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy2_zpsc2fa6904.jpg.html

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy5_zps62d15305.jpg.html

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/tommy1_zpse1ed8171.jpg.html


----------



## morencyam

The first picture reminds me of the old 3D Pipes screensaver from Windows XP


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> I had a bit of a lan party this weekend and a friend of mine took a few pics of my new build this with his decent camera. Just a couple of close ups of the water loop because the lightning wasn't great. I already put some pics up taken with my phone earlier in the week so I'm just whoring out some more as I'm pleased with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He's keen to try and get some more pictures under more sober conditions and with better lightning so I'll probably put some more up later in the week showing the whole thing.
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy3_zps3c8f77fc.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy6_zpse4b4f098.jpg.html
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy2_zpsc2fa6904.jpg.html
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy5_zps62d15305.jpg.html
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/tommy1_zpse1ed8171.jpg.html


BEAUTIFUL bends!

PS... so yeah, now all of the US is out of EK supremacy's ;


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> PS... so yeah, now all of the US is out of EK supremacy's ;


Weird they all would be out. Looks like dazmode in Canada still has a few if someone can't wait. U.S. customers might keep in mind when shopping there that the prices are in CAN dollars, so a block priced at $78 there is really under $72 USD. I'm just sayin'.


----------



## DeXel

Supremacy is sold out because EK is making a new CPU block. There are pictures in EK thread. My guess is that retailers already have them in stock, but aren't allowed to sell.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Which ek thread? The ek club thread started by triangle? Or is there a different ek thread?


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> O cool. Should have known it was a v1200. V1000 isn't EATX.


Here are the temps







360 rad for all that.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Which ek thread? The ek club thread started by triangle? Or is there a different ek thread?


Yes that thread.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Man that new block looks quite nice lol

Has a pretty cool looking jet plate


----------



## mus1mus

Gang, any word on Phobya G Changer Rad? Would be mixing it to Alphacools and XSPC rads..


----------



## VSG

G-Changer is essentially a UT60 on the inside. So you can expect the same pros and cons.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


No Compression fittings?


----------



## Jakewat

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*






sexy, I feel teased and want to know what's coming.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> No Compression fittings?


They are compression fittings


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> No Compression fittings?


There are Bitspower's Enhanced Multi Link fittings (compression fittings for rigid tube) in that cache of gold

http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093135&kind2=106

edit: haha ninja'd by Jakewat


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> They are compression fittings


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There are Bitspower's Enhanced Multi Link fittings (compression fittings for rigid tube) in that cache of gold
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22419/ex-tub-2514/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_True_Brass_BP-TBEML.html


I know exactly what is in the picture, i was talking about compression fittings for flex tubing...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I know exactly what is in the picture, i was talking about compression fittings for flex tubing...


I would assume Jameswalt1 isn't planning on mixing flex tube with rigid tube in whatever build he acquired all those fittings for.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I would assume Jameswalt1 isn't planning on mixing flex tube with rigid tube in whatever build he acquired all those fittings for.


Indeed, I wont be mixing rigid and flex


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Indeed, I wont be mixing rigid and flex


I have heard even two builds are coming, but these are to do with one involving gooooooold







. Would you be so kind to divulge the form factors involved?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I have heard even two builds are coming, but these are to do with one involving gooooooold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Would you be so kind to divulge the form factors involved?


One is mATX, the other mITX. Both will be extremely different from each other aesthetically. The mITX will be a heavily custom Parvum case, the mATX will be in a case that I can't speak of until the NDA is lifted.


----------



## Neb9

do you think a single zip tie will be enough to keep this on?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I have heard even two builds are coming, but these are to do with one involving gooooooold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Would you be so kind to divulge the form factors involved?
> 
> 
> 
> One is mATX, the other mITX. Both will be extremely different from each other aesthetically. The mITX will be a heavily custom Parvum case, the mATX will be in a case that I can't speak of until the NDA is lifted.
Click to expand...

Lol...me too...

InWin Dframe mini and a new case from a new company....

I wonder if its the same guys......


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol...me too...
> 
> InWin Dframe mini and a new case from a new company....
> 
> I wonder if its the same guys......


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> do you think a single zip tie will be enough to keep this on?


No. The best option is to use a top with compression fittings. Safest way. I remember mine developed a leak when I used those plastic clamps with stock housing.


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> No. The best option is to use a top with compression fittings. Safest way. I remember mine developed a leak when I used those plastic clamps with stock housing.


A top?

Do you mean a top designed for this pump/fitting?


----------



## badkarma3059

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> No. The best option is to use a top with compression fittings. Safest way. I remember mine developed a leak when I used those plastic clamps with stock housing.


worse case and you want to get it up and running, use an automotive band clamp


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> A top?
> 
> Do you mean a top designed for this pump/fitting?


Yes. Like this.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've used heavy duty zip ties for a couple months on the barbs on the stock D5 top and on all the other barbs in the loop without any leaks on my bench. I did replace the top with another stock D5 top that had the barbs cut off and G1/4 threads cut into it only so I could go with a different size tubing & compressions. PPCs usually has the stock top w/ custom G1/4 threads for under $10 but seems they are sold out at the moment. Here's the google cache ...

https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:Zw_T_xsKhmMJ:www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php%3Fmain_page%3Dproduct_info%26products_id%3D29204+&cd=8

Not that that helps much unless you want to wait until if/when they get it back. I thought FCPU had similar for a few $ more but don't currently see one there either.

If you're handy with tools you could always cut the barbs off and tap it yourself.

11.8mm Drill Bit http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=11.8mm+Drill+Bit
G1/4" BSP 19 TPI tap http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=G1/4+19+BSP+tap

Or spend $30 - $50 or more on a custom top.


----------



## ctguy1955

http://hwbot.org/league#offset=60#leagues=rookie



I just hit 5.0 today, and I was running much slower when I did the scores above.
I did not even know about HWbot.com until today.

I was not able to log in using my iphone, here are the photos of my
new XSPC AX240 system. I had to replace the 650D front fan, as it
would not allow me to install my new RAD. New fan will come
tomorrow for a push pull config.....

Here ya Go, B Negative:

this was my 24 hour leak test:










almost done:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Where is the watercooling?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Where is the watercooling?


Mine is sadly waiting on PayPal to get their act together so I can order from FrozenCPU


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Where is the watercooling?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Mine is sadly waiting on PayPal to get their act together so I can order from FrozenCPU


He was referring to the hwbot post.









OT... spending uncounted hours scrubbing dried, rock hard plastisizer from fitting threads is no bueno.


----------



## The Muffin Man

My Fractal Design Core 1300







Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501431/build-log-fractal-design-core-1300-watercooled/0_20


----------



## iBored

Looks great! But, no filters for intakes?


----------



## The Muffin Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Looks great! But, no filters for intakes?


Ruins the look imo.
Plus the case is small enough to carry into my garage and blow it out with my compressor


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Real Men run filterless and smoke 20 a day next to it........


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Real Men run filterless and smoke 20 a day next to it........


hahahahah


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Real Men run filterless and smoke 20 a day next to it........


...and blow the smoke directly into the intake for spooky effects


----------



## Jameswalt1

@The Muffin Man absolutely amazing dude


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> My Fractal Design Core 1300


That whole front looks awesome. I like the exposed recessed fans with the glossy plexi front. Nice!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> How come you dont select to load desktop version on your mobile device?


On a phone the mobile website is so much easier to use.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yes it is, and you can use swipe to type,
That fractal turned out great


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> On a phone the mobile website is so much easier to use.


I find the mobile website quite annoying to work with, I load the desktop site by default. But to each his own


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> do you think a single zip tie will be enough to keep this on?


I think you could get away w/o having a zip tie.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> do you think a single zip tie will be enough to keep this on?


If you're handy with tools you can take a hack saw and cut off the barbs, go to your local hardware store and pickup a 1/4-19 tap and tap threads for real fittings.

If they don't have a 1/4-19 (BSPP) tap you can also get a 1/4-18 (NPT), it's not necessarly the same thread but at 1/4", your BSPP fittings would still screw in just fine. I have personally done this to my pump even though I don't use it with the stock top and I work with NPT/BSPP fittings daily at my job.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> do you think a single zip tie will be enough to keep this on?


Honestly, I would buy a pump top for it


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Honestly, I would buy a pump top for it


Same, in-fact I just did


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> My Fractal Design Core 1300
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501431/build-log-fractal-design-core-1300-watercooled/0_20


looks amazingly clean A+







how are you mounting the pump and reservoir?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> My Fractal Design Core 1300
> 
> Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501431/build-log-fractal-design-core-1300-watercooled/0_20


Well done. Just needs some sleeving.


----------



## Nilin404

He can just slap some demciflex filter in front and done.....


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilin404*
> 
> He can just slap some demciflex filter in front and done.....


That would pretty well ruin the circular hole effect he has going, not to mention that it looks like the front of the case is not magnetic. Probably acrylic.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilin404*
> 
> He can just slap some demciflex filter in front and done.....


That would look terrible.









He's running filterless on purpose ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Looks great! But, no filters for intakes?
> 
> 
> 
> Ruins the look imo.
> Plus the case is small enough to carry into my garage and blow it out with my compressor
Click to expand...











I'm a big fan/advocate of filtered intakes even if they do restrict airflow, but not at the expense of aesthetics. I'm even a bigger fan of having an air compressor for regularly cleaning out dust and the other million-&-one things they can be used for. LUV my compressors!

As I'm just starting to get everything together for a TH10A build I've been kicking around a few idea for incorporating filters for it but I suspect I won't be happy with any of them. Nothing ruins the look of a sweet Caselabs build moreso than those Demciflex filters so I definitely won't be going that route. It won't be small enough for me to carry but it will definitely be on wheels so I can roll it to the garage and blow it out as needed.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> do you think a single zip tie will be enough to keep this on?


I've been running my pump that way with a worm clamp for a few years now with no issues. Just don't over tighten the clamp. It's transparent tubing so if there is an issue you'll see it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wrap the tubing in condensation sleeve,it soaks up any dew.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That is what insulation is for. Should realistically be used whenever below ambient temp. Both to prevent drops and to improve temp.


I'm not worried about the tubing. I would be worried about the condensation that would form on blocks & rads. Of course, if I could, I would only run the chiller when using the machine... Guess that would just require a bypass of some sort.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm not worried about the tubing. I would be worried about the condensation that would form on blocks & rads. Of course, if I could, I would only run the chiller when using the machine... Guess that would just require a bypass of some sort.


You would also want to cover up the blocks in insulation as well. Like someone mentioned earlier, chillers aren't pretty.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm not worried about the tubing. I would be worried about the condensation that would form on blocks & rads. Of course, if I could, I would only run the chiller when using the machine... Guess that would just require a bypass of some sort.
> 
> 
> 
> You would also want to cover up the blocks in insulation as well. Like someone mentioned earlier, chillers aren't pretty.
Click to expand...

That kind of assumes that the chiller setup is being used for sub ambient / extreme cooling. . . . .

And probably the overwhelming majority of chiller setups are.

That doesn't mean that they have to be though . . .

I'm looking at using the chiller to replace a buttload of rad space, and to turn on when the warm loop's onboard rad can no longer manage a preset delta t.

The blocks and warm loop's plumbing would never have to be sub dew point, or even sub ambient, to make it work that way.

Darlene


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Yes. Like this.


Thanks REP+


----------



## The Muffin Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> @The Muffin Man absolutely amazing dude


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> That whole front looks awesome. I like the exposed recessed fans with the glossy plexi front. Nice!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes it is, and you can use swipe to type,
> That fractal turned out great


Thanks people









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> looks amazingly clean A+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how are you mounting the pump and reservoir?


I designed/3d printed/painted a custom mounting stand and am using the old EK res mounting clippy things.
I also designed/3d printed/painted knurled covers for the old EK Supreme HF mounting system (looked horrible) and the
motherboard IO port cover which matches the design of the motherboard heatsink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Well done. Just needs some sleeving.


I'm using the silverstone PP05-E kit, its a very tight fit at the back and I'm not sure it would have worked with sleeved cables :/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well,the S3 is being packed up for ASUS today and off to i52 in the morning.

Got a new 1080 screen in the bottom with a nice HDMI input,no more dodgy adapters,and some ASUS battle dress on the front,thankfully this will just peel off when the event is over....


----------



## VSG

Screen looks great! I don't suppose you mind telling me what make/model that is? I would like to implement this too if you are ok with it.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm not worried about the tubing. I would be worried about the condensation that would form on blocks & rads. Of course, if I could, I would only run the chiller when using the machine... Guess that would just require a bypass of some sort.


Cold side traditionally doesn't have rads on it, since they would be counter productive - warming the chilled water with the ambient air.

Blocks and fittings on that loop do need to be insulated though. I use armaflex wrap for the fittings/clamps/odd shaped bits, and armaflex pipe insulation for the tubing. It is all black so doesn't look too terrible...but its definitely not nice and clean like a rigid tubing build.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> One is mATX, the other mITX. Both will be extremely different from each other aesthetically. The mITX will be a heavily custom Parvum case, the mATX will be in a case that I can't speak of until the NDA is lifted.


Damnit James you are going to overshadow me AGAIN!!







lol







Where did you get the gold compression hard tube fittings? I'm looking for those exact ones


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Damnit James you are going to overshadow me AGAIN!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the gold compression hard tube fittings? I'm looking for those exact ones


Frozen have it:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22419/ex-tub-2514/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_True_Brass_BP-TBEML.html?tl=g30c703s2056


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Damnit James you are going to overshadow me AGAIN!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the gold compression hard tube fittings? I'm looking for those exact ones


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Frozen have it:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22419/ex-tub-2514/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_True_Brass_BP-TBEML.html?tl=g30c703s2056


Yeah Frozen CPU is the only place I could find a selection of the true brass fittings in general, I over purchased a bit in case they sold out and stop carrying them - which I think will happen.


----------



## VSG

New PPC discount codes:
Quote:


> Now that the kids are finally heading back in school we can get back to business! The business of modding and watercooling our PC's! We have new arrivals coming every day including some of the best watercooling parts you can use. Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend $50-499 get 7% off: "SCHOOL14-7"
> Spend $500-999 get 8.5% off: "SCHOOL14-8.5"
> Spend over $1000 get 10% off: "SCHOOL14-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 20th through August 27th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


They also got the Bitspower Premium compression fittings as well as the new Alphacool hardline tubing and fittings. I noticed they mention the Alphacool tubing can be bent, but not sure if that was just meant for the acrylic ones.


----------



## morencyam

You're on top of things geggeg! I literally just got that email too


----------



## VSG

You are welcome


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New PPC discount codes:
> They also got the Bitspower Premium compression fittings as well as the new Alphacool hardline tubing and fittings. I noticed they mention the Alphacool tubing can be bent, but not sure if that was just meant for the acrylic ones.


I'm very curious about the marketing and intended use of the metal tube. The usual no frills aquacomputer/alphacool product launch with zero marketing, guidelines or instructions. You'd think they'd hype up the metal tube a little since no one else sells it for this application, but nope, they just start selling 20cm+ lengths with absolutely no mention of its intended application.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm very curious about the marketing and intended use of the metal tube. The usual no frills aquacomputer/alphacool product launch with zero marketing, guidelines or instructions. You'd think they'd hype up the metal tube a little since no one else sells it for this application, but nope, they just start selling 20cm+ lengths with absolutely no mention of its intended application.


Tell me about it! I hit up Aquatuning support and they couldn't give me any more information than what's already out there in the blurbs. 20-40 cm lengths are enough for most people but only if they can be cut/bent without issue. I think I will get a 20cm chrome tube section to try out, I have some pipe cutters/bending tools as it is.

@B NEGATIVE, have you gotten your hands on these yet by any chance via Specialtech?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Tell me about it! I hit up Aquatuning support and they couldn't give me any more information than what's already out there in the blurbs. 20-40 cm lengths are enough for most people but only if they can be cut/bent without issue. I think I will get a 20cm chrome tube section to try out, I have some pipe cutters/bending tools as it is.
> 
> @B NEGATIVE, have you gotten your hands on these yet by any chance via Specialtech?


Yeah I'm going to order a couple of lengths right now and I'll try to bend it and cut it, as well as finish off the cuts. I'll post the results here to give everyone the information alphafail couldn't provide themselves.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Tell me about it! *I hit up Aquatuning support and they couldn't give me any more information than what's already out there in the blurbs*. 20-40 cm lengths are enough for most people but only if they can be cut/bent without issue. I think I will get a 20cm chrome tube section to try out, I have some pipe cutters/bending tools as it is.
> 
> @B NEGATIVE, have you gotten your hands on these yet by any chance via Specialtech?


Seriously? They couldn't even tell you how to properly use their own product? I know this game, play dumb and you can't get yourself in trouble. Great CS support Aquatuning








I'm going to take a stab in the dark and say that as soon as it starts bending, the chrome plating will start cracking and wrinkling.
I noticed they have plexi tubing as well so maybe they can be used with acrylic tubing as well as the metal tubing?


----------



## darwing

well I may as well post this before James creates his gold build and overshadows it LOL










Spoiler: Updated Pics








































As well My video is being uploaded to Youtube right now and will be available in the morning


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Seriously? They couldn't even tell you how to properly use their own product? I know this game, play dumb and you can't get yourself in trouble. Great CS support Aquatuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to take a stab in the dark and say that as soon as it starts bending, the chrome plating will start cracking and wrinkling.
> I noticed they have plexi tubing as well so maybe they can be used with acrylic tubing as well as the metal tubing?


I guarantee it'll crack. I just ordered a 40cm length. I'll give everyone my inevitably disappointing findings









Looks amazing @darwing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm very curious about the marketing and intended use of the metal tube. The usual no frills aquacomputer/alphacool product launch with zero marketing, guidelines or instructions. You'd think they'd hype up the metal tube a little since no one else sells it for this application, but nope, they just start selling 20cm+ lengths with absolutely no mention of its intended application.
> 
> 
> 
> Tell me about it! I hit up Aquatuning support and they couldn't give me any more information than what's already out there in the blurbs. 20-40 cm lengths are enough for most people but only if they can be cut/bent without issue. I think I will get a 20cm chrome tube section to try out, I have some pipe cutters/bending tools as it is.
> 
> @B NEGATIVE, have you gotten your hands on these yet by any chance via Specialtech?
Click to expand...

No,why would I use that crap when I have Copper skills........

Bend it and the chrome will crack,thats all there is to it. That,coupled with the odd sized fittings makes this look like a cash in exercise to me.


----------



## VSG

Bryan from Primochill seemed convinced these were indeed 10/13mm and not 1/2" x 3/8" but he hasn't verified yet. I am 95% certain it will crack but if James has already ordered, I will save my money for a future order. The EK clear terminals I wanted are out of stock anyway!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,why would I use that crap when I have Copper skills........
> 
> Bend it and the chrome will crack,thats all there is to it. That,coupled with the odd sized fittings makes this look like a cash in exercise to me.


And your copper skills are strong they are - do more copper!









I still ordered some anyway, knowing the results will be atrocious. I'll spend $20 so no one else has to


----------



## Jakusonfire

I still don't believe it really is an odd size. On aqua tuning they call it 13mm and 1/2 inch. Same as they list monsoon fittings and they sure aren't 13mm
http://www.aquatuning.de/detail/index/sArticle/17732/sCategory/12353
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/anschluesse/anschraubtuellen/1310mm/17672/monsoon-hardline-13/10mm-id-3/8-od-1/2-anschraubtuelle-premium?c=12353
Even the copper tubing is labled as 1/2 inch and 13mm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,why would I use that crap when I have Copper skills........
> 
> Bend it and the chrome will crack,thats all there is to it. That,coupled with the odd sized fittings makes this look like a cash in exercise to me.
> 
> 
> 
> And your copper skills are strong they are - *do more copper!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still ordered some anyway, knowing the results will be atrocious. I'll spend $20 so no one else has to
Click to expand...

I agree,acrylic is played out now,I get bored of seeing it.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I agree,acrylic is played out now,I get bored of seeing it.


Took the words right out of my mouth. One of my two new builds is using acrylic and I'm trying to think of a way to make it more unique.

Although I will say that the really clean loops using acrylic look amazing, it's just the mass of builds with ridiculously complex loops with 500 bends and pastel coolant that are becoming an eye sore.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I agree,acrylic is played out now,I get bored of seeing it.


This is a major reason why I was/am interested in the Alphacool chrome tubing. But looks like best way is to go copper and plate them post bending if that look is desired.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Took the words right out of my mouth. One of my two new builds is using acrylic and I'm trying to think of a way to make it more unique.
> 
> Although I will say that the really clean loops using acrylic look amazing, it's just the mass of builds with ridiculously complex loops with 500 bends and pastel coolant that are becoming an eye sore.


I'm glad I wasn't the only one thinking that. Acrylic is cool and all, but it seems like that's all I see anymore, and TBH, I'm kind of tired of looking at them, with the exception of a few, Titanfall being one of those exceptions.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I agree,acrylic is played out now,I get bored of seeing it.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a major reason why I was/am interested in the Alphacool chrome tubing. But looks like best way is to go copper and plate them post bending if that look is desired.
Click to expand...

One of next builds is having 16mm pullwound carbon fibre,the other is undecided...
The best method is bend and plate,the way Alphastool are doing it is for maximum fittings purchasing.


----------



## Jakusonfire




----------



## B NEGATIVE

It's not like that,it's just lost its freshness Jak,I have seen so many of them that they are blurring into one......


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,why would I use that crap when I have Copper skills........
> 
> Bend it and the chrome will crack,thats all there is to it. That,coupled with the odd sized fittings makes this look like a cash in exercise to me.


This. I see no advantage whatsoever over copper tube, and there's no way I would would use a tubing that forced me to use fittings from Alphacool.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Guys... you're scaring me....








I was planning my new loop with Alphacool rigid tubing and fittings...but I think and going to pass....
Maybe I have to look for the (more expensive) bitspower black ones (i was thinking on the EK-HDC but there is limited stock here on Spain from these...)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> This. I see no advantage whatsoever over copper tube, and *there's no way I would would use a tubing that forced me to use fittings from Alphacool*.


This for sure


----------



## morencyam

It's not that I don't like them. It's just, like you said B, it's lost it's newness. It's like when an artist releases a new song and they play it every 10 minutes on the radio. I just get worn out on it.


----------



## LiquidHaus

lol all you guys agreeing on acrylic being old now, as I plan to move on from tubing to acrylic. you're killing me smalls!

that being said, I was thinking about doing acrylic but painting the acrylic a matte black. I have seen one build like that I believe and that was a while ago. I'm using ice dragon coolant as well so it'd be that "pastel coolant" look you guys are whining about









the matte black is my idea on a kansas city shuffle.

I just mainly want it for better bends. I've exercised my patience with tubing and it's stubbornness to go how I want it.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> lol all you guys agreeing on acrylic being old now, as I plan to move on from tubing to acrylic. you're killing me smalls!
> 
> that being said, I was thinking about doing acrylic but painting the acrylic a matte black. I have seen one build like that I believe and that was a while ago. I'm using ice dragon coolant as well so it'd be that "pastel coolant" look you guys are whining about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the matte black is my idea on a kansas city shuffle.
> 
> I just mainly want it for better bends. I've exercised my patience with tubing and it's stubbornness to go how I want it.


If we are thinking of the same build, that thing is beautiful. I would love to do a build with matte block painted/powder coated copper tubing.


----------



## darwing

I still love the look of acrylic tubing, not gettting old at all for me. its clean and some of the angles are amazing that people can do.

with that said I really dislike copper tubing, I think it looks horrible in any build, it just doesnt give a clean look cause of its color, as well being able to see the flow of the liquid is essential for "cool" effect








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Looks amazing @darwing


Thanks James, I'm excited to see your next build? how many do you have on the go now? as well are those gold fittings you posted acrylic fittings with bitspower angled fittings?

deciding to go either black or gold on my fittings, I think if I go gold it will be to much although all the liquid will be black.. but I may go black fittings cause there is already a decent amount of gold in there.


----------



## IT Diva

Guys, I need a bit of help from you EK officiandos . . . .

Can you link me to which series res tubes this dual D5 top is made for . . . looks like it needs an external thread on the ends, or is there an adapter that screws into the pump top and a tube into that?



Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I still love the look of acrylic tubing, not gettting old at all for me. its clean and some of the angles are amazing that people can do.
> 
> with that said I really dislike copper tubing, I think it looks horrible in any build, it just doesnt give a clean look cause of its color, as well being able to see the flow of the liquid is essential for "cool" effect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks James, I'm excited to see your next build? how many do you have on the go now? as well are those gold fittings you posted acrylic fittings with bitspower angled fittings?
> 
> deciding to go either black or gold on my fittings, I think if I go gold it will be to much although all the liquid will be black.. but I may go black fittings cause there is already a decent amount of gold in there.


The cool part of copper is getting it plated, chrome, nickel, powder coat - however bare copper does work too on occasion if the theme fits (@B NEGATIVE's white/copper build for example, can't remember name of build but I'm sure he'll remind us







)

Yes those are acrylic fittings in the pic too


----------



## LiquidHaus

bare copper would definitely not work for me; monochrome themed.

however I think what would be cheaper and yet near identical to powder coated copper, is just rattle canned acrylic.

if you do it right, rattle can look great.

i'd want to do that, mixed with some stainless braided lines haha like so:


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Guys, I need a bit of help from you EK officiandos . . . .
> 
> Can you link me to which series res tubes this dual D5 top is made for . . . looks like it needs an external thread on the ends, or is there an adapter that screws into the pump top and a tube into that?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


The EK Installation PDF shows it requires...

An EK-Multioption link paired with a Multioption tube









Good luck finding one of those in white


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It's not like that,it's just lost its freshness Jak,I have seen so many of them that they are blurring into one......


Yeah I know ... it just sounded funny everyone all at once.







It was really done as soon as the companys made it accessible


----------



## mus1mus

Forget the noobness but, are all d5s rated for 24V?

Just saw this.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Forget the noobness but, are all d5s rated for 24V?
> 
> Just saw this.


Believe so


----------



## Deedaz

finally got my rig running right and added the finishing touches. Here's some close-ups


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



its a warp core! lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Forget the noobness but, are all d5s rated for 24V?
> 
> Just saw this.


yep. But usually you will not see any benefit in performance by running at 24 v unless is the "strong" model:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24880/ex-pmp-319/Koolance_PMP-450S_12_ID_Native_Liquid_Cooling_Pump_PMP-450S.html

Not to mention that to do so you would need an adapter like this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22325/ex-pmp-277/Koolance_CTR-SPD1224M_12V_or_24V_Pump_Controller_CTR-SPD1224M.html#blank


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep. But usually you will not see any benefit in performance by running at 24 v unless is the "strong" model:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24880/ex-pmp-319/Koolance_PMP-450S_12_ID_Native_Liquid_Cooling_Pump_PMP-450S.html
> 
> Not to mention that to do so you would need an adapter like this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22325/ex-pmp-277/Koolance_CTR-SPD1224M_12V_or_24V_Pump_Controller_CTR-SPD1224M.html#blank


Thanks..









Nahh, I'd prefer running it at 12V and now that I knew it's rated for 24, I can actually run this (rather these, soon) at max speed as that's not really straining them hard.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Thanks..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nahh, I'd prefer running it at 12V and now that I knew it's rated for 24, I can actually run this (rather these, soon) at max speed as that's not really straining them hard.


24v does not increase the max RPMs or the max current draw so there isn't a big difference in strain or work load really. It isn't like, as it may sound, that 12v is like half power or half wear level.


----------



## mus1mus

still, those limiters will be on stress further at 24 than at 12..









but I do feel like the pump is not that strong at 12.. but then again, 2 pumps are better than 1..


----------



## Kimir

Not that strong? Are you trying to fuel an a380








I mean I run mine at max speed because it's silent enough and got 2.4l/m and I could still drop the speed to 3 and get no difference in temperature at all.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> still, those limiters will be on stress further at 24 than at 12..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I do feel like the pump is not that strong at 12.. but then again, 2 pumps are better than 1..


The 24V capability is really only there because these pumps were designed for use with solar power systems


----------



## kizwan

Do you guys remember Maximus ROG board that come with anodized aluminium CrossChill? Fret not, Maximus VII Formula will come with CrossChill copper. Yay!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Not that strong? Are you trying to fuel an a380
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean I run mine at max speed because it's silent enough and got 2.4l/m and I could still drop the speed to 3 and get no difference in temperature at all.


An alphacool block with 2 slim 360s.. flow is not a big issue at the moment.... Its bleeding out those air packets that is. but come time I'll add the GPU in to the mix, who knows..

The GT Stealth is highly restrictive due to its very thin channels. Roughly half of what the EX360 has. The XP3 POM block is also quite restrictive by its looks.

Now, its a question of maybe the way Alphacool designed their BayRes. Been looking at how quick some guys empty their res during fill-up and mine takes quite a bit slower.. So Yeah. And, it's no better than the XSPC 750 BayRes in my observation. So really, I should be wondering IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The 24V capability is really only there because these pumps were designed for use with solar power systems


----------



## Nichismo

Far from done but heres some pictures of my current rig. Still badly needs cable management, im i need some sort of lighting, but I cant decide between a cathode bar or Led bar.

sorry for the crappy cell phone pics


----------



## Jameswalt1

Looks great @Nichismo!


----------



## Nichismo

Wow, you, JamesWalt ,like my photos?! Thank you!

Seriously, I was about to purchase the Monoblock for my RIVE, but also wanted to do the multiple block setup because ive always liked the builds in which people had several short links with 90 degree adapters on each side.

But after seeing your amazing Robocop build, my inspiration was set









Its nothing even close, especially considering the lack of Ram waterblocks, but I did the best I could to mimic the style. Ive always had trouble cutting and chamfering the edges of my tubing, and thus symmetry and lines were difficult for me to get perfectly straight. But it was important to me that I followed your "100% horizontal or vertical" structure design.

Its also somewhat bothered me for a while now that i, using DDC pumps, the lack of mounting options, heat and power were concerns for me. But your build again gave me confidence that id still have sufficient flow and pressure for a build of this nature.

In the end, im still happy with it.

Even moreso now xD


----------



## Ironsmack

DAMN!

I want all of those extenders @Nichismo !


----------



## Lefik

It does look fantastic!


----------



## Nichismo

thanks guys









The extenders and fittings all together were so pricey, and it was hard to contemplate exactly how many of each I would need. Not to mention the Black Sparkle angled fittings are constantly being bought like hotcakes, and at least a couple mainstays are out of stock at some point in time.

Next time I drain the loop I will be making a few small changes, I badly need to add lighting but im torn on how I want to set it up,

The cabling is really bothering me too, but the PSU position makes it very difficult to go about. I think ill be needing extensions for pretty much every cable there. Im going to go black for those instead of the white.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, im open to all constructive criticism


----------



## siffonen

I tried to take some better photos, but still i suck at taking photos and my camera is about 10years old


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I tried to take some better photos, but still i suck at taking photos and my camera is about 10years old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Still nice


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It's not like that,it's just lost its freshness Jak,I have seen so many of them that they are blurring into one......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It's not that I don't like them. It's just, like you said B, it's lost it's newness. It's like when an artist releases a new song and they play it every 10 minutes on the radio. I just get worn out on it.


Funny clip, I love that show.

Acrylic tubing is pretty cool, it can be really pleasing to the eye if bends or fittings are used properly, I wouldn't say it's old, it still beats the hell out of those guys that buy kits and use all 6 feet of tubing for their single rad single block loop, lol. But I never got into the acrylic tubing, I wanted to give a crack at it but never pulled the trigger. I did try the EK ZMT tubing this time around. Obviously you can't see through it so it would limit a lot of people's interest right off the bat, but it was easy to work with and with my mostly black build it looks sweet. But it makes me wonder whats next?


----------



## Nichismo

If acrylic is getting old then god forbid whatever ancient abomination normal tubing must be turning into.


----------



## reset1101

Finally my rig is finished. Im very happy with temps and silence specially. A store mounted it for me so I just had the merit of choosing and paying xD. Hope you like it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I agree,acrylic is played out now,I get bored of seeing it.


It doesn't matter what type of tubing people use to me as long as it is implemented well. Copper or chrome or whatever doesn't look better than acrylic if bends are sloppy or going weird directions every which way. I would rather see a well done acrylic loop than a medicore copper one.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It doesn't matter what type of tubing people use to me as long as it is implemented well. Copper or chrome or whatever doesn't look better than acrylic if bends are sloppy or going weird directions every which way. I would rather see a well done acrylic loop than a medicore copper one.


Tend to agree...same for even the 'normal' tubing. If done well it is all good


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Do you guys remember Maximus ROG board that come with anodized aluminium CrossChill? Fret not, Maximus VII Formula will come with CrossChill copper. Yay!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have yet to have a single issue with my Maximum VI Formula, and I've pulled my loop apart more than once since I built it.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Do you guys remember Maximus ROG board that come with anodized aluminium CrossChill? Fret not, Maximus VII Formula will come with CrossChill copper. Yay!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have yet to have a single issue with my Maximum VI Formula, and I've pulled my loop apart more than once since I built it.
Click to expand...

Yeah I would never run aluminum with copper. Corrosion will occur.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Yeah I would never run aluminum with copper. Corrosion will occur.


It's anodized though. Although I agree with your point.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It doesn't matter what type of tubing people use to me as long as it is implemented well. Copper or chrome or whatever doesn't look better than acrylic if bends are sloppy or going weird directions every which way. I would rather see a well done acrylic loop than a medicore copper one.


+1
just this


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> If acrylic is getting old then god forbid whatever ancient abomination normal tubing must be turning into.


Time for a revival of garden hose !

It's gonna be plasticizer free soon anyways


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Yeah I would never run aluminum with copper. Corrosion will occur.
> 
> 
> 
> It's anodized though. Although I agree with your point.
Click to expand...

They should have just gone with copper, it really is just a better idea.

Which they are now! So that's good


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> bare copper would definitely not work for me; monochrome themed.
> 
> however I think what would be cheaper and yet near identical to powder coated copper, is just rattle canned acrylic.
> 
> if you do it right, rattle can look great.
> 
> i'd want to do that, mixed with some stainless braided lines haha like so:


This is amazing! Is there a build log for this?

Would love to see it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> This is amazing! Is there a build log for this?
> 
> Would love to see it.


https://www.google.com/search?q=+Cosmos+Cruizer


----------



## max883




----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *max883*


Looks good but one question, did you just cut the sides of the case off completely?

Picked up the case for my next WC system last night. BNIB yet it is 6+ years old.









I did bend the mesh on the side panel accidential when taking it out of the box. However it was going to be trashed for a window anyways. With a few mods I should be able to fit two 3x140mm, one 2x140mm, and one 2x120mm. Although that is ridiculously overkill since I won't be using more than 1 GPU again.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> This is amazing! Is there a build log for this?
> 
> Would love to see it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> bare copper would definitely not work for me; monochrome themed.
> 
> however I think what would be cheaper and yet near identical to powder coated copper, is just rattle canned acrylic.
> 
> if you do it right, rattle can look great.
> 
> i'd want to do that, mixed with some stainless braided lines haha like so:


The work put in this case mod defines the ART of building Computers. When the hobby turns from placing strong components together to a The art of making them look beautiful .. It turns into an art.


----------



## VSG

I just noticed Koolance a 1/4" NPT threaded QDC set available:





Am I missing something here or are there still any NPT threaded blocks anywhere?


----------



## BangBangPlay

New to water cooling, was kinda forced into it when I got a second GTX 770 on the cheap from Craigslist. Stacked in a mATX case they were both toasty. I first just did the two 770s with the front 240mm Alphacool rad and saw a pretty respectable drop in temps (almost 30C on the top card). I decided to ditch the H100i and swap it for a H220X. Saw another slight dip (5C average) in GPU temps and CPU is slightly cooler, especially at idle.

I'm really liking the PWM function with the H220X pump and the splitter which controls the 4 SP120 performance fans together. I just link the curve to the water temp sensor in the loop and AI Suite takes care of the rest. It's my first time doing plumbing in a computer so go easy on me...


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> New to water cooling, was kinda forced into it when I got a second GTX 770 on the cheap from Craigslist. Stacked in a mATX case they were both toasty. I first just did the two 770s with the front 240mm Alphacool rad and saw a pretty respectable drop in temps (almost 30C on the top card). I decided to ditch the H100i and swap it for a H220X. Saw another slight dip (5C average) in GPU temps and CPU is slightly cooler, especially at idle.
> 
> I'm really liking the PWM function with the H220X pump and the splitter which controls the 4 SP120 performance fans together. I just link the curve to the water temp sensor in the loop and AI Suite takes care of the rest. It's my first time doing plumbing in a computer so go easy on me...


looks good man, great job









seems like you got pretty much it all down, only thing i'd change is the tubing layout slightly after the GPU's, but that's personal preference, my suggestion would raise temps maybe a degree, but it would make things look much cleaner. i'm a form and function but slightly more pointed towards form type of person


----------



## Jameswalt1

My new build log is started:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1508863/sponsored-parvum-warfare


----------



## Nichismo

hey guys, Just had a few more images that I sort of touched up with my phone that I wanted to display.

Thanks


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I just noticed Koolance a 1/4" NPT threaded QDC set available:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I missing something here or are there still any NPT threaded blocks anywhere?


They are not for screwing into waterblocks
like the bulkhead connectors, they allow to connect your loop to "something else" like your central heating or a geothermal loop or a huge 50000 gallon agricultural reservoir... anything which uses NPT piping really.


----------



## VSG

That's not what they advertise though.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's not what they advertise though.


Quote:


> Koolance (patent-pending) quick disconnect no-spill coupling with automatic shutoff. 1/4 NPT (tapered) threaded male fitting for screwing directly into a water block *or other component.* It will only fit a Koolance QD3 female quick disconnect.


----------



## VSG

I like how you ignored the water blocks part right before it but anyway you are probably right. I was just wondering if Koolance was going to try making 1/4" NPT threaded blocks to be more proprietary/exclusive. I suppose even they aren't that dumb.


----------



## RnRollie

they are probably responding to an "industrial" demand... http://koolance.com/cold-plates-assemblies-thermal-design-manufacturing
or they re planning to release something special soon.. maybe a 9000 BTU version of their "portable" chiller







http://koolance.com/exc-800-portable-800W-recirculating-chiller


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys remember Maximus ROG board that come with anodized aluminium CrossChill? Fret not, Maximus VII Formula will come with CrossChill copper. Yay!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


yay, only took them 4 generations to figure it out! First they used dinky barbs, then aluminum, now what it should be!


----------



## VSG

Except that the copper block is in direct contact with the anodized aluminum heatsink above (for those who will be on air, they had to have a heatsink). So everything isn't 100% there yet.


----------



## stickg1

Exactly they should just use copper! They charge so much for the board it's the least they could do.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yay, only took them 4 generations to figure it out! First they used dinky barbs, then aluminum, now what it should be!


Hey now, if Asus didn't do things the way they do they wouldn't be following the company motto: "Inspiring Innovation. Persistent Perfection. In Search of Incredible."









If you start with barbs and move up slowly year after year, it looks like you are in fact "getting better" and actually "searching" for the right solution. Though most of us already know what they should of done, but they have to keep an image to the ones who don't know.


----------



## Red1776

For my next trick, I will turn a solid into liquid.









4 x MSI R290X Twin Frozr Edition


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> For my next trick, I will turn a solid into liquid.


are these a 4 way 290X lightning? 4k stands no chance


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Hey now, if Asus didn't do things the way they do they wouldn't be following the company motto: "Inspiring Innovation. Persistent Perfection. In Search of Incredible."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you start with barbs and move up slowly year after year, it looks like you are in fact "getting better" and actually "searching" for the right solution. Though most of us already know what they should of done, but they have to keep an image to the ones who don't know.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> looks good man, great job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seems like you got pretty much it all down, only thing i'd change is the tubing layout slightly after the GPU's, but that's personal preference, my suggestion would raise temps maybe a degree, but it would make things look much cleaner. i'm a form and function but slightly more pointed towards form type of person


Thanks man! I'll take any compliments I can get from the from the pros! Yeah I decided to attempt to keep the CPU and GPU on their own rads so to speak, but I know it is only affording me a few degrees at most. I figured it would be best for the small rad surface area I am running in my limited case. It likely would have been easier to route it like you suggested in a chain. I ended up upgrading all the tubing so I kinda stuck to what I had for the GPU loop and linked in the CPU loop/H220X if that helps explain why I did what I did. I

Knowing how I am though I will probably mess with it in the near future and could very well end up rerouting the tubing and some fittings. Thanks for for the nod of confidence. I only stared building desktops last year, but I have an engineering background so it came pretty naturally. I love to improve things and push them to their limits, but don't we all in one way or another!


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good but one question, did you just cut the sides of the case off completely?
> 
> Picked up the case for my next WC system last night. BNIB yet it is 6+ years old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did bend the mesh on the side panel accidential when taking it out of the box. However it was going to be trashed for a window anyways. With a few mods I should be able to fit two 3x140mm, one 2x140mm, and one 2x120mm. Although that is ridiculously overkill since I won't be using more than 1 GPU again.


What case is that?


----------



## The Pook

only have a boring 'ol H100i now but I found some pics of my old LGA 775 rig ... 7900GS with the full block and a 8800GT with the universal Swiftech
















pictures were ~2007 ... was only 15-16. Robbed most of the parts from the old family PC when my family upgraded and spent the little I had saved in OCN's used section.

DFI Blood Iron P35 LGA 775 board, E6300 with the 7900GS/8800GT, 2GB Team Xtreeme DDR2-800 ... don't remember much of the loop but I was using a '77 Bonneville Core


----------



## SDMODNoob

Hey guys I was thinking of jumping into acrylic when I expand my S8. The popular trend that I see people go for are the C47s w/ the 90 degree rotary adapters. If I were to go with these

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40113

I am also going to be using these fittings:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39665
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39718

I no longer need the 90 degree adapters right? Maybe just grab a few adapters for some tight turns? I will be just going with fittings so I don't have to bend any tubes. Do you guys still think its necessary to get the monsoon kit just to cut/deburr the tubes? Speaking of tubes, if I am reading it right these fittings are only compatible with these tubes?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41538

From looking at the other acrylic builds, people use a lot of extensions for their fittings. What do you guys suggest would be a safer number to buy to tube up 4 rads, 2 pumps, 6 blocks? I originally was going to buy 6 of each extension from the 7.5mm to the 30mm.

I figure this is the best time to make the move since PPCS is having their sale now so any help is appreciated in picking out the corrrect parts.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> What case is that?


It is a Tagan / Aplus Black Pearl. Made by Lian Li.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is a Tagan / Aplus Black Pearl. Made by Lian Li.


Is it just a Lian Li V2000 with a temperature monitor, top mounts for a radiator and no-mesh design?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Is it just a Lian Li V2000 with a temperature monitor, top mounts for a radiator and no-mesh design?


Pretty much.


----------



## LiquidHaus

snapped a few tonight..







thanks again @EVGA-JacobF


----------



## neverblink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> snapped a few tonight..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks again @EVGA-JacobF


Looks professional! which GPU waterblocks are those?


----------



## skupples

-.- spoiler plox

Very nice Rig!


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Pretty much.


I just found a V2000 on CL for $50. I'm really tempted even though I don't need it.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Nice rig! Awesome Pictures!!









I have to get a better camera at some pint -_-


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neverblink*
> 
> Looks professional! which GPU waterblocks are those?


HeatKillers


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Nice rig! Awesome Pictures!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to get a better camera at some pint -_-


A pint sounds good as well, lol


----------



## psycho84

Little Update









Midplate MKII


----------



## Alex132

So I kinda got the PWM D5 pump instead of the Vario one.









Will a fan-controller be fine to control the speed of the pump? (it is powered by a separate molex power)


----------



## VSG

As long as you have a PWM fan controller, and even then the range of control will be low thanks to a non standard PWM implementation in the pump.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> So I kinda got the PWM D5 pump instead of the Vario one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will a fan-controller be fine to control the speed of the pump? (it is powered by a separate molex power)


Most normal fan controllers won't be able to of course, unless you change the way the pump gets its power. They control fans by varying the voltage so if the power doesn't come from the controller it is useless.

Even if you mod the power cables, the pump will then only run at about 30% of full power because it needs an Active PWM signal to run at full speed.

It really needs to be connected to a PWM header for full control.


----------



## devilhead

hot to make that connection? acrylic is not to go, because for 90 is to short distance, tryed with snake rotary bitspower, no go... any suggestions?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> I just found a V2000 on CL for $50. I'm really tempted even though I don't need it.


That is ridiculous. But that would depend on what kind of shape it it is in.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> hot to make that connection? acrylic is not to go, because for 90 is to short distance, tryed with snake rotary bitspower, no go... any suggestions?


bend only at 45 degree (maybe to short for this)

or

a 45 angle fittings on side rad, keep the 90 on top and a straight tube

or add another 90 degree fitting on the existing one and straight tube or a sli fitting


----------



## DarthBaggins

Found some ISO in a spray bottle


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As long as you have a PWM fan controller, and even then the range of control will be low thanks to a non standard PWM implementation in the pump.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> So I kinda got the PWM D5 pump instead of the Vario one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will a fan-controller be fine to control the speed of the pump? (it is powered by a separate molex power)
> 
> 
> 
> Most normal fan controllers won't be able to of course, unless you change the way the pump gets its power. They control fans by varying the voltage so if the power doesn't come from the controller it is useless.
> 
> Even if you mod the power cables, the pump will then only run at about 30% of full power because it needs an Active PWM signal to run at full speed.
> 
> It really needs to be connected to a PWM header for full control.
Click to expand...

Damn okay, so how would you guys suggest controlling the speed of this pump?

Hook it up to my motherboard CPU fan header and in the BIOS tell it to run at the lowest speed possible? (don't need the extra flow in my loop).


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Damn okay, so how would you guys suggest controlling the speed of this pump?
> 
> Hook it up to my motherboard CPU fan header and in the BIOS tell it to run at the lowest speed possible? (don't need the extra flow in my loop).


Is this the P8P67 Pro in your signature? If so then download Speedfan and use it.

Martin did a great step by step on setting up Speefan.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/5/


----------



## fast_fate

@B NEGATIVE
Are you working on a new banner for the OP ?
The one that was there is not displaying for me


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Damn okay, so how would you guys suggest controlling the speed of this pump?
> 
> Hook it up to my motherboard CPU fan header and in the BIOS tell it to run at the lowest speed possible? (don't need the extra flow in my loop).
> 
> 
> 
> Is this the P8P67 Pro in your signature? If so then download Speedfan and use it.
> 
> Martin did a great step by step on setting up Speefan.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/5/
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was thinking I could use that. But it would be a pain to run that every time









I'd like something to set up and forget about it. Hence why I wanted to set it to ~40% in the BIOS or something.

edit- I wouldn't mind running something like that, I already have speedfan and it seems simple enough to follow


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Yeah, I was thinking I could use that. But it would be a pain to run that every time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like something to set up and forget about it. Hence why I wanted to set it to ~40% in the BIOS or something.


Have the program run at startup. It would just sit in the system tray. Controlling the pump in the bios will be very limiting.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Yeah, I was thinking I could use that. But it would be a pain to run that every time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like something to set up and forget about it. Hence why I wanted to set it to ~40% in the BIOS or something.
> 
> 
> 
> Have the program run at startup. It would just sit in the system tray. Controlling the pump in the bios will be very limiting.
Click to expand...

Yeah thanks, I think I am gonna do that.

Although IIRC faster pump =/= lower temps.
Faster pumps are only for overcoming restrictions, correct?


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Although IIRC faster pump =/= lower temps.
> Faster pumps are only for overcoming restrictions, correct?


Correct. Anything above 1GPM will basically only add noise.


----------



## Jameswalt1

I'm back after experimenting with the Alphacool chrome plated hard tube, here are my findings. It's not quite as garbage as I expected.

1. It is indeed 13mm OD, not 1/2 inch (12.7mm). This is the main issue, your fitting selection will be limited.

2. The finish is actually very nice and blemish free.

3. Here's the surprising one, it bends flawlessly and does not crack at all. I did three bends in the same 40cm tube and every one was flawless.

So it's really not a terrible product, but at the same time the true 13mm sizing sucks and obviously you need a good bender for the tube itself which could run you around $100 and with the size being an odd 13mm I don't know if it's worth investing in that size of bender.


----------



## VSG

I have a piece of the black chrome coming in next week as well for a test. Great to know that the finish held up. What bender did you use? I assume you have pictures coming up? Thanks for the info, +1


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> Are you working on a new banner for the OP ?
> The one that was there is not displaying for me


I'm not but I do want a new banner for the front page.
PM me if anyone wants to do one....

Now,im off to sleep off the alcohol poisoning from I52.....last day tomorrow!

And you ain't going to believe what I have coming up.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Far from done but heres some pictures of my current rig. Still badly needs cable management, im i need some sort of lighting, but I cant decide between a cathode bar or Led bar.
> 
> sorry for the crappy cell phone pics
> 
> What Drain are you using???


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm back after experimenting with the Alphacool chrome plated hard tube, here are my findings. It's not quite as garbage as I expected.
> 
> 1. It is indeed 13mm OD, not 1/2 inch (12.7mm). This is the main issue, your fitting selection will be limited.
> 
> 2. The finish is actually very nice and blemish free.
> 
> 3. Here's the surprising one, it bends flawlessly and does not crack at all. I did three bends in the same 40cm tube and every one was flawless.
> 
> So it's really not a terrible product, but at the same time the true 13mm sizing sucks and obviously you need a good bender for the tube itself which could run you around $100 and with the size being an odd 13mm I don't know if it's worth investing in that size of bender.


Do you have any pictures? If it would only fit 1/2" fittings I would definitely use it.


----------



## Jeronbernal

yo b negative, remember this? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exotic-High-End-Gaming-Computing-Desktop-Slinky-Supercomputer-TITAN-4-Way-SLI-/301055618270?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item4618502cde

i almost had a seizure watching that skull @[email protected]


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> yo b negative, remember this?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exotic-High-End-Gaming-Computing-Desktop-Slinky-Supercomputer-TITAN-4-Way-SLI-/301055618270?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item4618502cde
> 
> i almost had a seizure watching that skull @[email protected]


http://www.dailymotion.com/HumanSlinky

that's the guys who makes that computer


----------



## Jeronbernal

XD
i saw that on america's got talent a few weeks ago, i was so confused until i saw the guy in the end lol

atleast he's not charging $16k for his neon seizure fest @[email protected]


----------



## MrBlunt

hahahahaha goddd i HATE that slinky build.. lol


----------



## Jeronbernal

i wouldn't mind it so much if he didn't go on a patent troll frenzy lol, especially on a person who was really liking his build, and just wanted input on how to recreate the "glowing Geforce" thing. That's like writing a 5 star review on a restaurant, then getting mad that someone even reviewed their restaurant.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol Everything's over!


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Has anyone had any issues with mayhems pastel coolant separating when you leave your rig off for a while? Twice now I have left my rig off for a week and come back to find all of the 'solid' bits have gone to the low points leaving the rest of the coolant seethrough but still yellow - it looks kinda like piss. Then in the reservoir there is a browny cloud at the top but when I turn on the computer it returns to normal pastel yellow after a second or two...


----------



## koniu777

hey everyone







finally dragged my cosmos 2 outside for some daylight pics ( boy is that thing heavy lol )


----------



## Servos

I've had mayhems pastel (sunset yellow/ red) do this. It mixes up very quickly when the loop is active. I don't see it as a problem.


----------



## skupples

Glowing G-force thingy... Rip out the Gforce logo from the stock heat sink. Glue it to waterblock, win.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Servos*
> 
> I've had mayhems pastel (sunset yellow/ red) do this. It mixes up very quickly when the loop is active. I don't see it as a problem.


It's a common thing people bring up, Mick's answer is always something about it being a nano particle (Japanese pidgin poop?) suspension, so it settles like oil & water when not in motion.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## skupples

When will the new BP DDC tops make it to PPC / FCPU?!


----------



## Jeronbernal

The tops are at ppcs just go through the new product page it's under magic cube from bitspower or some thing


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> The tops are at ppcs just go through the new product page it's under magic cube from bitspower or some thing


Thanks! I wonder if they are compatible with the EK DDC housings... Seems like the only thing that could get in the way is the screw lengths/threading.

"Must Be Connected To More DDCTOP By Using Panel."


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Has anyone had any issues with mayhems pastel coolant separating when you leave your rig off for a while? Twice now I have left my rig off for a week and come back to find all of the 'solid' bits have gone to the low points leaving the rest of the coolant seethrough but still yellow - it looks kinda like piss. Then in the reservoir there is a browny cloud at the top but when I turn on the computer it returns to normal pastel yellow after a second or two...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Servos*
> 
> I've had mayhems pastel (sunset yellow/ red) do this. It mixes up very quickly when the loop is active. I don't see it as a problem.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Glowing G-force thingy... Rip out the Gforce logo from the stock heat sink. Glue it to waterblock, win.
> It's a common thing people bring up, Mick's answer is always something about it being a nano particle (Japanese pidgin poop?) suspension, so it settles like oil & water when not in motion.


cheers! just checking there is nothing wrong


----------



## ginger_nuts

I thought that was normal ?

A year ago or so Mayhems had a few people mentioning this, they kept saying that it is expected, and no harm comes from it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I thought that was normal ?
> 
> A year ago or so Mayhems had a few people mentioning this, they kept saying that it is expected, and no harm comes from it.


Correct. It is normal for pastels & other products from Mayhem's to settle when the loop is not in motion.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Real Men run filterless and smoke 20 a day next to it........


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol Everything's over!
Click to expand...

Lol they filmed this part right down the street from my house.


----------



## skupples

Ah.. I finally get it... Hipsterism is a disease!


----------



## nismoskyline

I'm going to be starting a build log soon, but I need the case 1st







, My goal is to do something like this:

So if anyone is willing to sell me their tj07, it's for a good cause


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> hey everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finally dragged my cosmos 2 outside for some daylight pics ( boy is that thing heavy lol )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that is a Cosmos II window done right. Nice work.
And I get you about that weight. I've got a friend with one of those cases. It's air cooled, but it already weighs some 72+ lbs.


----------



## Red1776

This is where the fun starts.

Quad R290X's w/EK R29X RC Rev 2.0 and EK Semi Parallel Bridge


----------



## IT Diva

Got a little more progress made on my chiller build, Tropical Frost. . . . . . Making parts and test fitting assemblies . . . .

I've tried to make things as modular as possible to make changes, assembly, and modifications easier

The drains are accessible behind the front cover; top is the warm loop, the lower is the cold loop.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

One chiller per loop?


----------



## DarthBaggins

She's crazy like that, lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> One chiller per loop?


There's a warm loop on one side of the exchangers with the mobo CPU and GPUs and a 360 rad, and a cold loop on the other side of the exchangers with the chillers and it's own pumps.

The pump setup in the pics is the warm loop pump, while the cold loop pumps will be a module attached to the back of the case with a Koolance external rad bracket.

The chillers will be setup to come on progressively as the delta t exceeds a setpoint.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Ah I see what you are doing now. Given that you aren't running the chillers on every time, won't one chiller then be under more load than the other initially?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah I see what you are doing now. Given that you aren't running the chillers on every time, won't one chiller then be under more load than the other initially?


The primary chiller, the one that comes on first as delta t exceeds what the warm loop's 360 rad can manage, will run more than the other one, but the chillers are plumbed in parallel so when both are on, the load is the same, and with only one on . . . the other has no load, but coolant still circulates thru it.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Yup, that's what I meant. Would running both on simultaneously in series help manage load and achieve even lower temps or is there an intrinsic limit of performance based on ambient - coolant delta T? I know this isn't what you want but I am trying to see if that would help me during benching.


----------



## LiquidHaus

that's pretty smart. so technically you wouldn't have to be dealing with condensation, correct? since they're designed to run to keep delta at a certain spot..


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> that's pretty smart. so technically you wouldn't have to be dealing with condensation, correct? since they're designed to run to keep delta at a certain spot..


For now she wants to run then with a deltaT based controller to maintain modest coolant temps, but I've been down that road before. Before you know it, the mobo will be out getting violated by art eraser, neoprene, and dielectric grease so she can really see what those chillers can do







.

Cold is addicting







.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Technically, it is a lack of heat.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Shots at i52 before the morning invasion.





Got mad feedback and 15 purchase requests in under 2 hours on the first day!

I know some were interested in this case.....



Let me tell you this,no picture does this case justice,its Bang and Olfsen good!!

And for my new case....



New log up next week and a second log in a few more weeks!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, that's what I meant. Would running both on simultaneously in series help manage load and achieve even lower temps or is there an intrinsic limit of performance based on ambient - coolant delta T? I know this isn't what you want but I am trying to see if that would help me during benching.


I'm not sure if there's much difference whether the chillers are run in series or parallel at the flow rates we see in PC cooling.

I have a pair of D5 Strong pumps with 24V supply and the EK acetal top for the cold loop, . . . . . Pretty good flow potential for a PC cooling loop, but not nearly what a pond pump might push, so that's why I went with parallel . . . . lower restriction and longer dwell time in the chiller tanks.

Running both chillers simultaneously still shouldn't matter whether parallel or seriesed, . . . it'll get you some very cold coolant . . . . . . Much cooler than I want to have to deal with the side effects of.

HOMECINEMA-PC in the R4BE thread does a lot of benching and runs a 1HP Hailea chiller and sometimes a second smaller one with very good results . . he's also running a test bench setup, so it's easier to deal with the condensation issue.

I had originally intended to get just a single 1HP model, but couldn't find any that would ship here, so opted for a pair of 1/2 HP ones instead, . . . . looking at it in hindsight, that may well have been serendipitous, as it now gives me the option of running them progressively and saving on the electric bill and much less noise. . . . . Especially since this is planned to be a daily driver/ gamer rig.

It may turn out that the second chiller isn't needed, which wouldn't hurt my feelings a bit, as it would be available then, for another build. . . . But that's why I'm looking at it as an experiment . . .









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> that's pretty smart. so technically you wouldn't have to be dealing with condensation, correct? since they're designed to run to keep delta at a certain spot..


That's the plan . . . . . avoid condensation wherever possible.

The only area of concern for condensation is the cold loop's plumbing and possibly the plate heat exchangers.

If I can keep the cold loop right about dew point temp, with normal humidity levels, then I should be able to pull the warm loop down to about ambient temp, and there's no condensation issues.

The problem comes from the fact that the lower the delta t between the cold loop side of an exchanger and the warm loop side, the less thermally efficient it is.

To ameliorate this a bit, I've used 2 of the Koolance plate exchangers in parallel, so that the cold loop can cool the warm loop better with a lower delta t between them.

The warm loop side of the system is the silver fittings, while the cold loop side is the white fittings.

The valves and caps at the front are on the drain line for each loop and they conceal behind the front panel





Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Not going with a condensation sleeve then Darlene?

I normally see those Hailea units plumbed straight in as the controllers are very solid. I often wondered if anyone used those exchangers,now apparently they do.

Looking forward to the results.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Darlene, might I ask how large of a reservoir are you going to use for your cold loop and what you based your decision on?

Actually I'm also curious to know if you considered TEC's with a dew point controller and if so what influenced your decision to use chillers instead.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Darlene, might I ask how large of a reservoir are you going to use for your cold loop and what you based your decision on?
> 
> Actually I'm also curious to know *if you considered TEC's* with a dew point controller and if so what influenced your decision to use chillers instead.


Power bill=Huge!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not going with a condensation sleeve then Darlene?
> 
> I normally see those Hailea units plumbed straight in as the controllers are very solid. I often wondered if anyone used those exchangers,now apparently they do.
> 
> Looking forward to the results.


I have the lines for the cold loop set up to have a simple straight feed across and down from the pass thrus on the back of the case to the exchangers.

I have the option to use 1/2 by 3/4 tubing, or 1/2 acrylic or 5/8 acrylic.

I'm leaning towards the 5/8 acrylic, as that size matches up to the OD of 1/2 hard copper pipe, for which there's readily available soft foam insulation.

The second option would be the Advanced LRT tubing, as it's kind of insulating in and of itself.

The 360 rad up top is configured as an inlet, and I have a 200mm fan as exhaust in the front, so that I can keep air moving across the exchangers and out of the case.

I'm looking forward to the results myself . . .

Darlene


----------



## montymole

This is my last build called Red Candy in a TJ07 my favorite case of all time


----------



## montymole

[QUOTELet me tell you this,no picture does this case justice,its Bang and Olfsen good!!][/QUOTE]

It was such a thing a beauty i would love to have that thing no pics can do it justice you need to feel it eh matey


----------



## royce5950

Just a few crappy shots of some waterblock progress ive made. You isually see the groove for an o ring engraved into the copper but with it being extremely easier to work acrylic im hoping there is no difference in performance or efficiency of the seal having the o ring groove cut out of the acrylic rather than the copper. This is the progress ive made on a southbridge block for my z87 sabertooth. the design is extremely simple so thats why I chose to make this one first, then moving onto harder things like gpu blocks and what not. Eventually ill take my designs to a metals shop with a cnc machine and ill get my hands on thicker copper to properly make the blocks with a traditional approach, being that the acrylic top sits flat atop the copper with all grooves and water/coolant paths being cut into the copper rather than the acrylic. But for now this is working. ill frost the block with a light grit sandpaper to make it look cleaner. Until a cnc is available I wont be making clear blocks. For tops, just acrylic and acetal,


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few crappy shots of some waterblock progress ive made. You isually see the groove for an o ring engraved into the copper but with it being extremely easier to work acrylic im hoping there is no difference in performance or efficiency of the seal having the o ring groove cut out of the acrylic rather than the copper. This is the progress ive made on a southbridge block for my z87 sabertooth. the design is extremely simple so thats why I chose to make this one first, then moving onto harder things like gpu blocks and what not. Eventually ill take my designs to a metals shop with a cnc machine and ill get my hands on thicker copper to properly make the blocks with a traditional approach, being that the acrylic top sits flat atop the copper with all grooves and water/coolant paths being cut into the copper rather than the acrylic. But for now this is working. ill frost the block with a light grit sandpaper to make it look cleaner. Until a cnc is available I wont be making clear blocks. For tops, just acrylic and acetal,


So pro


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ooh what's in the In-Win?


----------



## JoelonGC

wow and I though some of my custom bits were a hard slog, that is awesome!!!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, I have some sad news about one of my EK-Coolstream XTX240's which is leaking as a strainer now, it has been good to me about nine months, but that is just not good enough. No more EKWB-radiators on me from now of. I am struggling to decide if I should buy another WaterCool MO-RA3 420 LT or go for the MO-RA3 360 LT. I think it would be best with the 420 LT because then I have 2520 mm^2 radiator area for 3930K @ 4,5 Ghz with 1,4 volts, 16 GB RAM at 1866-->2133 Mhz 1,5-->1,65 volts, Asus RIVBE (chipset and mosfet) and my four R9 290X running at 1100/1300 (possibly more in the future). I should be good with 2520 mm^2 area for that.
With the 360 LT however I am looking at 2340 mm^2 radiator area. The pro-side of going with the MO-RA3 360 LT is that I already have 9x 120 mm fans and it is a tiny bit cheaper than the 420 LT.

The minimum of radiator area for my rig should be 2280 mm^2 area so it is cutting it close with overclocking with the 1080, better go for the 420 LT then? I will also add a few more QD3's because two are a little on the short side I kind of feel now that the water has to go out of it again.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys I want your opinion on something , I'm thinking of putting a mITX mobo in a mATX case and wanted to know that you guys think , my build would be much better use of space and loop direction, etc then the pic I'm going to post but ya , what's your feedback?



This is not the case or rads I'd be using, In my build the psu and pump wouldn't be visible and the gap between where the second pcie slot would be , would be covered with plexi/acrylic illuminated logo, and maybe the res in the gap between the mobo and rad?

Thoughts Please..


----------



## Alex132

Personally I would go for an mATX board do to the added features and possibly reliability/overclockability that an mATX board offers over a mITX board.
I am sure it is do-able, even with all that watercooling


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Personally I would go for an mATX board do to the added features and possibly reliability/overclockability that an mATX board offers over a mITX board.
> I am sure it is do-able, even with all that watercooling


I have the the Maximus Impact , so not much added features going with mATX other then an extra PCIe Slot and the option to add 16 more GB of Ram.. All of which I don't really need..


----------



## Maticb

I'd go mATX only because I think that picture, and the idea of a small mobo in a bigger case is ugly. Unless you really fill up the space.

Also mATX borads tend to be cheaper.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd go with the ne EVGA stinger z97 mitx mobo, its sessi


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> I'd go mATX only because I think that picture, and the idea of a small mobo in a bigger case is ugly. Unless you really fill up the space.
> 
> Also mATX borads tend to be cheaper.


I ready have the mITX board so it wouldn't be cheaper buying a mATX board









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'd go with the ne EVGA stinger z97 mitx mobo, its sessi


Impact looks better with the EK Fullblock IMO , and the impact will have better overclocking ability , but I do love the Z87/Z97 I/O Shield!


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys I want your opinion on something , I'm thinking of putting a mITX mobo in a mATX case and wanted to know that you guys think , my build would be much better use of space and loop direction, etc then the pic I'm going to post but ya , what's your feedback?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not the case or rads I'd be using, In my build the psu and pump wouldn't be visible and the gap between where the second pcie slot would be , would be covered with plexi/acrylic illuminated logo, and maybe the res in the gap between the mobo and rad?
> 
> Thoughts Please..


Generally speaking its true that mITX boards look totally lost in any bigger sized tower. However, with the ideas youre having it will look quite space efficient, but what wil you use the space between PSU and mobo for? The pic you posted would look a lot better with a res on the right.
You could try to fit some 3.5" drives in the 3rd and 4th pcie slot.

If you decide mITX watercooled I would recommend EKWB or Bitspower full cover blocks, they look stunning.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Generally speaking its true that mITX boards look totally lost in any bigger sized tower. However, with the ideas youre having it will look quite space efficient, but what wil you use the space between PSU and mobo for? The pic you posted would look a lot better with a res on the right.
> You could try to fit some 3.5" drives in the 3rd and 4th pcie slot.
> 
> If you decide mITX watercooled I would recommend EKWB or Bitspower full cover blocks, they look stunning.


Well if I do this idea, I'd be using the EKWB Full Cover Blocks along with a X2 Monarch , and I said already what my idea was for the space between the PSU and Mobo "plexi/acrylic illuminated build name and logo" and the 3.5" idea is good but I'd be using 2.5" SSD's which could go there!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Another MO-RA3 420 LT on it's way with 9x 140 mm Cooltek 900 rpm fans and 4x QD3's, this should be good. Loosing some radiator-area though, going from 2700 mm^2 to 2520 mm^2.


----------



## Maticb

Quick nooby question, my current loop was temporary until I get a new case, the case should come tomorrow so I just want to know if it's okay to take the same tube that was used with compression fittings and reuse/rebuild it? The compression fittings don't compress it to much?

Im using the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tube.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *montymole*
> 
> 
> 
> This is my last build called Red Candy in a TJ07 my favorite case of all time


one of the best TJ07 I ever seen

Build logs?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Has anyone had any issues with mayhems pastel coolant separating when you leave your rig off for a while? Twice now I have left my rig off for a week and come back to find all of the 'solid' bits have gone to the low points leaving the rest of the coolant seethrough but still yellow - it looks kinda like piss. Then in the reservoir there is a browny cloud at the top but when I turn on the computer it returns to normal pastel yellow after a second or two...


It is normal. Pastel is a nano-fluid which means it has nano sized particles floating around in it. If there is no water flow, then they will fall out of suspension. Once you turn the pump back on, those particles will go back into suspension and it should look normal again.


----------



## spikezone2004

Do you guys ever get this in your reservoirs?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Do you guys ever get this in your reservoirs?


If you mean condensation then yes, I get it quite often due to the temperature difference of the coolant and the temperature of the air in my case.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Do you guys ever get this in your reservoirs?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


I don't because I always keep my reservoirs topped off. If I see more than a couple millimeters gap at the top I add fluid.


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Do you guys ever get this in your reservoirs?
> *image* ]


Yes, mine looks exactly the same as yours


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you mean condensation then yes, I get it quite often due to the temperature difference of the coolant and the temperature of the air in my case.


Yes, I mean condensation. I guess I have just never noticed it before


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Power bill=Huge!












My power bill is already almost $400-$500 a month, and that's when i'm not attempting to blow fuses... Note also that my house has ancient windows, and I live in Florida, so the new AC unit we got has done almost nothing for reducing energy costs in the summer(about $30-$50 a month down). Before people question what it is. We have directly linked 75% of the power bill to the AC unit, and the technician thinks about 40% of that 75% is the dehumidifier... All new impact & hurricane resistant windows would be great, but it would also cost 20-30,000 sooo yeah..... Moral of the story, don't move to Miami if you like cheap power & low bills.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My power bill is already almost $400-$500 a month, and that's when i'm not attempting to blow fuses... Note also that my house has ancient windows, and I live in Florida, so the new AC unit we got has done almost nothing for reducing energy costs in the summer(about $30-$50 a month down). Before people question what it is. We have directly linked 75% of the power bill to the AC unit, and the technician thinks about 40% of that 75% is the dehumidifier... All new impact & hurricane resistant windows would be great, but it would also cost 20-30,000 sooo yeah..... Moral of the story, don't move to Miami if you like cheap power & low bills.


Makes my power bill here in GA look cheap ($140/mo)


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> Quick nooby question, my current loop was temporary until I get a new case, the case should come tomorrow so I just want to know if it's okay to take the same tube that was used with compression fittings and reuse/rebuild it? The compression fittings don't compress it to much?
> 
> Im using the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tube.


Reusing tubes is fine, as long as your using plasticizer free tubing such as Advanced LRT and Tygon. I've reused my white Advanced LRT before and the only problem was that the outside of the older tubing was a little more discolored than the brand new tubing.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Makes my power bill here in GA look cheap ($140/mo)


i don't even pay for utilities benefits of renting!


----------



## sdmf74

Build finished. already posted pics in caselabs thread but I figured this was a good place


----------



## sakmeo95

Corsair Obsidian Series 800D mod



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MetallicAcid

Hey everyone,

My modding project is complete, and I would like to present to you the final photoshoot for my rig. It's name is Monolith!




Spoiler: Massive photodump!


















































Thank you so much for checking out my build! I am working on a video walkthrough of the mod as I type this









Best regards,
Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> My modding project is complete, and I would like to present to you the final photoshoot for my rig. It's name is Monolith!
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for checking out my build! I am working on a video walkthrough of the mod as I type this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen


That's a very well done pc! I'm impressed


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> My modding project is complete, and I would like to present to you the final photoshoot for my rig. It's name is Monolith!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Massive photodump!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for checking out my build! I am working on a video walkthrough of the mod as I type this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen


Amazing build! Truly a work of art. What case is that?


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Amazing build! Truly a work of art. What case is that?


Ft03.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> Corsair Obsidian Series 800D mod


Holy balls that's an awesome mod.
Do you have a build log?


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> That's a very well done pc! I'm impressed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Amazing build! Truly a work of art. What case is that?


Hey guys, thank you! I am glad you like it









Best regards,
Justin


----------



## Maticb

Just installed everything in my new H440, before you look at images I'd warn you that I made my PC to perform not look nice









Surprisingly the temperatures are the same even thought I went from 240+120 to 360+240. Maybe it's because of the slower and quieter H440 case fans (yes I am on a budget there is no way on this earth I am spending 100€+ for some fancy Corsair or something fans). Also on the budget are the fittings, this is all made with straight fittings all bends are the pipe only.



Bad reflection on the window, don't mind that


----------



## sakmeo95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Holy balls that's an awesome mod.
> Do you have a build log?


I'm sorry. I did not create the build log,


----------



## timerwin63

Just finished a loop in my Hadron Air. It's not totally done, but it'll do for now.


Sorry for the iffy lighting.

Edit: Does anyone know how to effectively bleed a loop without a res in it? I got a res, but it doesn't fit, and I don't have the fittings I'd need to use it externally.


----------



## Maticb

Reffering to my previous post about the temperatures being the same, that was a HUGE UNDERSTATEMENT. I only tested it for about 20 minutes in heaven and it reached temps same as my previous loop, but after an hour of battlefield 3 the temperatures were 10-15 deegres higher!!! Can you imagine that? I almost doubled radiator surface + the new 360 is thicker (5 centimeters).

Water temperature was reaching 49-50 deegres in the RESERVOIR (that is directly after the 360 radiator), the inside of the case when I opened it was super hot.

So about 1 hour of work and one white spray paint later:


I gotta say I am terribly dissapointed by the H440's ariflow, yeah I did know it's bad, but I never imagined it's that bad.
So just a tip for anyone wanting to watercool in a H440 : *DONT.*.
Unless you plan to do something like me, then there is no way I'd recommend it. I mean the temperatures were in a tolerable range, but not for my taste.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> I'm sorry. I did not create the build log,


That is a nice build with some substantial changes on the case. Would be interested to see more pictures and how did you change the MB orientation.

[quo


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



te name="Maticb" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/72040#post_22759218"]Reffering to my previous post about the temperatures being the same, that was a HUGE UNDERSTATEMENT. I only tested it for about 20 minutes in heaven and it reached temps same as my previous loop, but after an hour of battlefield 3 the temperatures were 10-15 deegres higher!!! Can you imagine that? I almost doubled radiator surface + the new 360 is thicker (5 centimeters).

Water temperature was reaching 49-50 deegres in the RESERVOIR (that is directly after the 360 radiator), the inside of the case when I opened it was super hot.

So about 1 hour of work and one white spray paint later:


I gotta say I am terribly dissapointed by the H440's ariflow, yeah I did know it's bad, but I never imagined it's that bad.
So just a tip for anyone wanting to watercool in a H440 : *DONT.*.
Unless you plan to do something like me, then there is no way I'd recommend it. I mean the temperatures were in a tolerable range, but not for my taste.


[/quote]

Maticb two things you might consider. One, there is too much tube in there...You can easily cut some of it out and have a more tidy build. Not sure will help with the temps but...The second thing is from your pictures the tube coming out (or in) of the cpu block looks like on the verge of kink. Check that since if it is indeed that might be affecting your temp.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That is a nice build with some substantial changes on the case. Would be interested to see more pictures and how did you change the MB orientation.


I think the FT03 comes with a vertical mobo tray.
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=291


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Maticb two things you might consider. One, there is too much tube in there...You can easily cut some of it out and have a more tidy build. Not sure will help with the temps but...The second thing is from your pictures the tube coming out (or in) of the cpu block looks like on the verge of kink. Check that since if it is indeed that might be affecting your temp.


The tube is fine, as I said I have no adapter fittings, need to save money for those lol. I'm guessing If I want to adapter fittings it would be at least 100€ for them, which I do not have, once I do I will tidy the loop.

Trust me there isn't to much tube, I made it as tight as possible without kinking. Better to have more tube then a kink right







And no the tube isn't affedting temps, it's all working good with normalized temps now. I just needed that airflow

It wont win a beauty contest, but I don't plan on competing


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I think the FT03 comes with a vertical mobo tray.
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=291


Not talking about ft03. His(her) case is a obsidian 800d.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> The tube is fine, as I said I have no adapter fittings, need to save money for those lol. I'm guessing If I want to adapter fittings it would be at least 100€ for them, which I do not have, once I do I will tidy the loop.
> 
> Trust me there isn't to much tube, I made it as tight as possible without kinking. Better to have more tube then a kink right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no the tube isn't affedting temps, it's all working good with normalized temps now. I just needed that airflow
> 
> It wont win a beauty contest, but I don't plan on competing


I'm no expert, but it's quite possible that it's the fans.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not talking about ft03. His(her) case is a obsidian 800d.


Sorry. Thought you were talking about MetallicAcid's mod.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I'm no expert, but it's quite possible that it's the fans.


lol, yeah, I think Maticb figured that out, hence all the fan cutout mods he did to the top and front of that H440. Doesn't look bad at all and I'll bet it did open up airflow in that otherwise air-starved case.


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, yeah, I think Maticb figured that out, hence all the fan cutout mods he did to the top and front of that H440. Doesn't look bad at all and I'll bet it did open up airflow in that otherwise air-starved case.


Exactly









My parents were looking at me a bit strange for cutting open a case that I got on the same day lol. But I considered returning it and the shipping alone would be like 40€(there and back for the new case), which is half the value of the case almost, and I do really like the design of the H440, and I needed a bigger case to fit a 360 rad, so the bad ariflow aside, it's great.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Here is the evo seems to have a new jetplate and new toolless mounting bracket, I was hoping for a new designed top.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo.html


----------



## Jeronbernal

I'll take it either way lol


----------



## CaliLife17

EDIT: Posted in wrong thread


----------



## sakmeo95

Hi Gabrielzm

I've added a new photo to the spoiler.
Case of parallel pipes too, I agree.
Thanks for the advice.
The temperature is normal.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> Exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My parents were looking at me a bit strange for cutting open a case that I got on the same day lol. But I considered returning it and the shipping alone would be like 40€(there and back for the new case), which is half the value of the case almost, and I do really like the design of the H440, and I needed a bigger case to fit a 360 rad, so the bad ariflow aside, it's great.


Blocks require highflow rate
Radiators require lowflow rate.

Cpu blocks are more sensitive to water temps with the small foot print of the die

Gpu blocks will contribute most of the heat.

Change ure loop to ddc to gpu to cpu to top rad to front rad for ure setup.Ure ddc is already limited on flow rate n ure lowering the amount by giving the highest flow to the rad above.

Best option would be
Ddc to cpu to gpu to top rad to front rad to res. Both rads push out with high static pressure fans. Case back fan pull into casing with high flow cfm fan. You should see a lot of difference.

No idea y ppl keep doing pump to rad. It only helps on thermal equlibrium but not on limited flow rate setup like ures.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I saw where Maticb posted about an airflow problem that he had with a case, showed how he solved it, and seemed to be quite happy with the results.

I must have missed that part where Maticb asked for any advice from anyone about anything, much less bad advice based on a false presumption about flow rates.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> Blocks require highflow rate
> *Radiators require lowflow rate.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Cpu blocks are more sensitive to water temps with the small foot print of the die
> 
> Gpu blocks will contribute most of the heat.
> 
> Change ure loop to ddc to gpu to cpu to top rad to front rad for ure setup.Ure ddc is already limited on flow rate n ure lowering the amount by giving the highest flow to the rad above.
> 
> Best option would be
> Ddc to cpu to gpu to top rad to front rad to res. Both rads push out with high static pressure fans. Case back fan pull into casing with high flow cfm fan. You should see a lot of difference.
> 
> No idea y ppl keep doing pump to rad. It only helps on thermal equlibrium but not on limited flow rate setup like ures.


Nope.

More flow is more good, and it doesn't change along the length of the loop. It is the same everywhere.
In testing that I did on radiator and fan setups for cases, using the rear fan as intake and front and top rads for exhaust was the worst performing setup.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> Blocks require highflow rate
> Radiators require lowflow rate.
> 
> Cpu blocks are more sensitive to water temps with the small foot print of the die
> 
> Gpu blocks will contribute most of the heat.
> 
> Change ure loop to ddc to gpu to cpu to top rad to front rad for ure setup.Ure ddc is already *limited on flow rate n ure lowering the amount by giving the highest flow to the rad above.
> *
> Best option would be
> Ddc to cpu to gpu to top rad to front rad to res. Both rads push out with high static pressure fans. Case back fan pull into casing with high flow cfm fan. You should see a lot of difference.
> 
> No idea y ppl keep doing pump to rad. It only helps on thermal equlibrium but not on limited flow rate setup like ures.


It appears that you are saying that components will receive more flow if they are placed closer to the pump or before going to a component which is higher in the loop.
This just isn't correct.
The system flow rate is a result of the total restriction of the loop's components Vs. the pump/s potential output....
and is the same throughout the loop.
The position of the highest component in the loop has very little impact on the pump's pressure output, and therefor the resulting flow rate.


----------



## nismoskyline

I don't believe I have posted this here,
An (ex)friend made this for me, I had to disassemble it before college
So one last picture of my 800d
r.i.p


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> Corsair Obsidian Series 800D mod


DAMN. This is pretty sweet man, gives me motivation to continue modding my 800D even though I've about maximized what I can do with mine lol. You really should have made a build log.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> My modding project is complete, and I would like to present to you the final photoshoot for my rig. It's name is Monolith!


Incredible work. Nice job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Here is the evo seems to have a new jetplate and new toolless mounting bracket, I was hoping for a new designed top.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo.html


Please tell me they have the "clean" version of this. I try to avoid the CSQ crop circles when I can.


----------



## gdubc

Clean plexi seen *here*. (Brought to my attention by cstkl1 in the ek thread)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> Hi Gabrielzm
> 
> I've added a new photo to the spoiler.
> Case of parallel pipes too, I agree.
> Thanks for the advice.
> The temperature is normal.


Thks for the pictures mate. I appreciate that and congratulations on the build. sweet mod.









+rep


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> DAMN. This is pretty sweet man, gives me motivation to continue modding my 800D even though I've about maximized what I can do with mine lol. You really should have made a build log.
> Incredible work. Nice job.
> Please tell me they have the "clean" version of this. I try to avoid the CSQ crop circles when I can.


They will have all the current colors for both CSQ and Clean CSQ, but there is one new color being introduced apparently im assuming its going to be white..


----------



## sakmeo95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> DAMN. This is pretty sweet man, gives me motivation to continue modding my 800D even though I've about maximized what I can do with mine lol. You really should have made a build log.
> Incredible work. Nice job..


Thanks








Some of the image.


I have build log old version.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




http://www.overclockzone.com/forums/showthread.php/2142064-%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%A1-800D-VGA-%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9F%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2


----------



## snef

Look at this piece of art I received in my mail box


received this little box with my name on it, just cant wait to open it to see the new block


so excited when I saw the "EK-Supremacy EVO White Edition" on the box


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I'm no expert, but it's quite possible that it's the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> lol, yeah, I think Maticb figured that out, hence all the fan cutout mods he did to the top and front of that H440. Doesn't look bad at all and I'll bet it did open up airflow in that otherwise air-starved case.
Click to expand...

What @Maticb is experiencing pretty much similar to what I'm experiencing. I figured it's also because of poor airflow. The 290's can generate a lot of heat. The only one exhaust fan at the back can't keep up & this causing the case ambient increased that basically increase the water temp to 50s Celsius. Removing side panel fixed this of course but if I have to do this then it's better to build my rig on test bench. That or bigger case for better airflow. I could put back the original window because I can mount two fans on the side panel but that would increase the noise which I want to avoid.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## nismoskyline

nice photography!


----------



## andytom69

my system is based on the reality and practicality, I wanted to solve a noise problem, without having to touch the speed of the fan
gpu is CF 290X , cpu 4770K, don't use OC
the system is fully thermocontrolled, the card gryphone Z97 allows you to
control the speed by 3 sensors' 4-5 fans , on the rad
I have the sensors connected to the gpu wb and the liquid pipe
finally the temp on gpu are max 50°


----------



## LiquidHaus

evo block is lookin' cray!


----------



## JaredLaskey82

I have almost got my rig to where I want it.
Still want to ass white cables for the PSU and upgrade to the AX1200. Also replace the rest of the fans with bitfenix spectre pro in white.

CPU: FX 8350 OC: 4.4GHz
Motherboard: GA-990FXA-UD5
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB 1600MHz (painted white)
GPU: 2x ASUS R9 280X DCU2 Top
OC: 1.11GHz @ 1.263v Mem: 6.8GHz

Case: NZXT Phanton 820 White with NZXT Switch 810 window side panel.
Storage: 120Gb Samsung 820 SSD, 2TB Segate Baracuda
PSU: Corsair HX1050 v1
Display(s): 2x BenQ RL2455HM 24inch LED Gaming Monitors
Cooling: Corsair H100i
Keyboard: Tt eSPORTSMEKA G-Unit Combat White
Mouse: Thermaltake Black Series Combat White Gaming Mouse
Sound: CM Storm Sirus S. Creative Inspire T6160 5.1 Speakers. ASUS Xonar DG

Water cooling:
1x XSPC RayStorm D5 RX240 V3 Water Cooling Kit
1x EK FC Terminal Dual Serial
2x EK-FC R9-280X DCII - Acetal+Nickel
16x XSPC G1/4 Black Chrome 7/16 Compression Fitting V2
6x XSPC G1/4 45 Degree Rotary Fitting Black Chrome
1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm
2x Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White Rotary 90 Degree Adapter
2x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Mini Valve
2x XSPC EC6 Liquid Cooling Coolant Clear
1x Bitspower Flow Indicator Matte Black
3x BitFenix Spectre Pro White 120mm PWM Fan
1x PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing White 7/16ID 5/8OD 3m


----------



## Egami

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864210299/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864384517/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15027943976/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864279460/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15047888701/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864347968/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864208829/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14864383087/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Those EVO blocks look no different to the normal unit....shame that.

Not keen on the promotion of drug use either,not on a low average age forum like OCN....even more so if they ain't sharing.


----------



## Jakewat

@Jameswalt1
Those new blocks looking amazing, I thought that was a custom made top for a normal supremacy for a moment, then realized that a few new products had been released







.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nope.
> 
> More flow is more good, and it doesn't change along the length of the loop. It is the same everywhere.
> In testing that I did on radiator and fan setups for cases, using the rear fan as intake and front and top rads for exhaust was the worst performing setup.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It appears that you are saying that components will receive more flow if they are placed closer to the pump or before going to a component which is higher in the loop.
> This just isn't correct.
> The system flow rate is a result of the total restriction of the loop's components Vs. the pump/s potential output....
> and is the same throughout the loop.
> The position of the highest component in the loop has very little impact on the pump's pressure output, and therefor the resulting flow rate.


Sorry ppl seems my understanding on flow n pressirr on close loop was wrong. Was schooled by few ppl who read what i wrote.

Always thought that was what the pump graph meant


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those EVO blocks look no different to the normal unit....shame that.
> 
> Not keen on the promotion of drug use either,not on a low average age forum like OCN....even more so if they ain't sharing.


sorry







was just a joke


----------



## jpetrach

Question: I moved> remodeled and thought I has covered everything good.







however I did not there is a noticeable amount of drywall dust in the mother board as well as everything else. Is there a safe dip cleaning method? I have tried air compressor and paint brush. is there a way to clean like new?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those EVO blocks look no different to the normal unit....shame that.
> 
> Not keen on the promotion of drug use either,not on a low average age forum like OCN....even more so if they ain't sharing.
> 
> 
> 
> sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was just a joke
Click to expand...

Its not a problem for me...you know that the mods will pick up on it tho.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not a problem for me...you know that the mods will pick up on it tho.


Was a joke/fun pic, edited for said possible TOS issue


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Question: I moved> remodeled and thought I has covered everything good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> however I did not there is a noticeable amount of drywall dust in the mother board as well as everything else. Is there a safe dip cleaning method? I have tried air compressor and paint brush. is there a way to clean like new?


Dish washer or sink,leave the socket cover on and wash with water.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dish washer or sink,leave the socket cover on and wash with water.


really? Admiral Akbar just yelled its a trap!


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dish washer or sink,leave the socket cover on and wash with water.
> 
> 
> 
> really?
Click to expand...

There is a video of a guy scrubbing down his Gigabtye X58 UD9 board.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm surprised / worried that an air compressor & paint brush didn't take care of drywall dust. Are you sure it's not paint?


----------



## jpetrach

Ya not paint, it was in the case covered in plastic. it is drywall dust I am just worried about it in all the ports. and with the board being black it shows. I watched the video and he poured hot water from a pot on the board, it that ok? it does not show him drying and using the board. just please anyone done this and everything still works? or are you guys joking??


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Ya not paint, it was in the case covered in plastic. it is drywall dust I am just worried about it in all the ports. and with the board being black it shows. I watched the video and he poured hot water from a pot on the board, it that ok? it does not show him drying and using the board. just please anyone done this and everything still works? or are you guys joking??


It does actually work, but I would still say there is some risk involved if you don't immediately dry it out 100%...oxidization is not good for electronics. Me, I would use some rubbing alcohol, some cotton swabs, more canned/compressed air, and some patience.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dish washer or sink,leave the socket cover on and wash with water.
> 
> 
> 
> really? Admiral Akbar just yelled its a trap!
Click to expand...

Unlike most of this site,I don't give advice like that unless I do it myself.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Nothing wrong with washing components with tap water as long as you let it dry for an extended period of time. As mentioned earlier, there are less drastic methods like isopropyl alcohol with some cotton swabs/q tips. Doesn't require such a long dry time.


----------



## sinnedone

Yup, I've personally wiped down motherboards/gpus with nice damp almost wet rags to get that stuck on dust off. Just let it dry and only use as much as needed then dry.


----------



## morencyam

I've washed a motherboard in the sink as well. Then I wiped some Iso Alcohol over it to help speed up the drying. I did let it dry for about 2 days while I was installing the radiators and other water components.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey @B NEGATIVE I sorta have this question aimed at you but if others know the answer that'd be cool too; in your pipe bending 101 thread you tell people about the fittings you used..

Could you use those same PTC style fittings on acrylic tubing?

Apparently E22 has a tubing size that's 10mm OD. (I see it on ppcs.com)

Technically I could use that tubing and those Aquatuning fittings, correct?

I don't really like the idea of paying 7-8 dollars for one fitting when I need 20, so I'm hoping this route could work.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Unlike most of this site,I don't give advice like that unless I do it myself.


thank you. I will give it a go


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Hey @B NEGATIVE I sorta have this question aimed at you but if others know the answer that'd be cool too; in your pipe bending 101 thread you tell people about the fittings you used..
> 
> Could you use those same PTC style fittings on acrylic tubing?
> 
> Apparently E22 has a tubing size that's 10mm OD. (I see it on ppcs.com)
> 
> Technically I could use that tubing and those Aquatuning fittings, correct?
> 
> I don't really like the idea of paying 7-8 dollars for one fitting when I need 20, so I'm hoping this route could work.


You could but separating them can be a chore as the lock ring grabs on to the tube like crap to a blanket.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not a problem for me...you know that the mods will pick up on it tho.
> 
> 
> 
> Was a joke/fun pic, edited for said possible TOS issue
Click to expand...

Dont sweat it mate,its all good.

in other news,apparently EK have sent me one too. Nice of them.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could but separating them can be a chore as the lock ring grabs on to the tube like crap to a blanket.
> Dont sweat it mate,its all good.
> 
> in other news,apparently EK have sent me one too. Nice of them.


Nice, which one did you get?


----------



## devilhead

hi guys, can i use this extender for my fans? for me it looks too much from one cable







) but for aesthetic and place in case is good stuff. maybe it can make some problems for my power supply?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> hi guys, can i use this extender for my fans? for me it looks too much from one cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but for aesthetic and place in case is good stuff. maybe it can make some problems for my power supply?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


Is that a Phobya fan splitter cable? It looks like it. If so I suggest you ask B Negative about his experience using them.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> hi guys, can i use this extender for my fans? for me it looks too much from one cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but for aesthetic and place in case is good stuff. maybe it can make some problems for my power supply?


No problem here so far. Twice of them attached to an Aquaero 6 PRO to be precise.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could but separating them can be a chore as the lock ring grabs on to the tube like crap to a blanket.
> Dont sweat it mate,its all good.
> 
> in other news,apparently EK have sent me one too. Nice of them.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, which one did you get?
Click to expand...

Acrylic and Nickel.

Saving it for the 'other' build.....


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Is that a Phobya fan splitter cable? It looks like it. If so I suggest you ask B Negative about his experience using them.


"Fear it"


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Acrylic and Nickel.
> 
> Saving it for the 'other' build.....


You guys and your secret new case from the secret new manufacturer









I figured I would make an overview of the EK Supremacy Evo as well: http://www.overclock.net/t/1509787/my-review-of-the-ek-supremacy-evo/0_50

PPC messed up my order and delivery of some parts will only be tomorrow so I couldn't get the beauty shots I wanted


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> hi guys, can i use this extender for my fans? for me it looks too much from one cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but for aesthetic and place in case is good stuff. maybe it can make some problems for my power supply?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a *Phobya* fan splitter cable? It looks like it. If so I suggest you ask B Negative about his experience using them.
Click to expand...



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Acrylic and Nickel.
> 
> Saving it for the 'other' build.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys and your secret new case from the secret new manufacturer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured I would make an overview of the EK Supremacy Evo as well: http://www.overclock.net/t/1509787/my-review-of-the-ek-supremacy-evo/0_50
> 
> PPC messed up my order and delivery of some parts will only be tomorrow so I couldn't get the beauty shots I wanted
Click to expand...

Soon young'un...soon.


----------



## Raul-7

I use the Phobya fan splitter to run 3 Delta's off of one molex, been running 2 years 24/7 without issues.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> I use the Phobya fan splitter to run 3 Delta's off of one molex, been running 2 years 24/7 without issues.


Good for you,mine caught fire and almost took a £5500 rig with it......after about a month of use with 4 Corsair SP's


----------



## DeXel

The chance of a wire in DC circuit to cause fire is extremely low. They must have messed up isolation of +/- pretty bad for that too happen. I don't have issues with mine. I might open up the sleeve and check how well it's isolated.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> The chance of a wire in DC circuit to cause fire is extremely low. They must have messed up isolation of +/- pretty bad for that too happen. I don't have issues with mine. I might open up the sleeve and check how well it's isolated.




Apparently not that low......that damage is repeated down the wire.


----------



## DeXel

Well, it still happens. Looks like insulating material melted. The question is what caused it (cheap wire? bad insulator? some weird current spike causing wire to not handle it?), but still a wire going on fire is the last thing I'll be worried about. Are there any other incidents besides yours?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could but separating them can be a chore as the lock ring grabs on to the tube like crap to a blanket.


Can you elaborate? I didn't really get that reference.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Well, it still happens. Looks like insulating material melted. The question is what caused it (cheap wire? bad insulator? some weird current spike causing wire to not handle it?), but still a wire going on fire is the last thing I'll be worried about. Are there any other incidents besides yours?


Not bothered to check,that ,coupled with LED kits dying and endless res problems in this thread= No Bueno.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could but separating them can be a chore as the lock ring grabs on to the tube like crap to a blanket.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you elaborate? I didn't really get that reference.
Click to expand...

How about a dried booger on a window?

It sticks hard.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How about a dried booger on a window?
> 
> It sticks hard.


....very interesting choice of comparison.

but alright, so it'd be really tough to remove the tubing once it's seated in the fitting? kinda have one shot to do it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How about a dried booger on a window?
> 
> It sticks hard.
> 
> 
> 
> ....very interesting choice of comparison.
> 
> but alright, so it'd be really tough to remove the tubing once it's seated in the fitting? kinda have one shot to do it?
Click to expand...

Yeah,thats how I would put it. Even if you get them out,the lock ring takes chunks out.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could but separating them can be a chore as the lock ring grabs on to the tube like crap to a blanket.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How about a dried booger on a window?
> It sticks hard.


Such a poet


----------



## snef

and a Black and white


----------



## ledzepp3

So with all this news of the new Supremacy EVO block, why no clean nickel?







I'd love to just get the lower half of the block and plop my clean nickel top back onto it to keep the look I've already got. Does anyone else think that's even kinda possible?

-Zepp


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> So with all this news of the new Supremacy EVO block, why no clean nickel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to just get the lower half of the block and plop my clean nickel top back onto it to keep the look I've already got. Does anyone else think that's even kinda possible?
> 
> -Zepp


You can get a conversion kit to go from original Supremacy to Supremacy Evo. In the list of available models, there is a full nickel option too: http://www.ekwb.com/news/514/19/EK-introduces-new-flagship-CPU-water-block/


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Wanou

These pictures looks so _unreal_ !!!


----------



## lowfat

Ditched the mesh grills to show off the SR1.


----------



## mus1mus

Nice shot and incredible finish on those arrays!!!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> So with all this news of the new Supremacy EVO block, why no clean nickel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to just get the lower half of the block and plop my clean nickel top back onto it to keep the look I've already got. Does anyone else think that's even kinda possible?
> 
> -Zepp


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel.html

Its the top half that is the new and changed section so that particular way won't work.


----------



## iBored

Is it really worth the upgrade?
Stren from ExtremeRigs did a review and it didn't really show any improvement.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Is it really worth the upgrade?
> Stren from ExtremeRigs did a review and it didn't really show any improvement.


Moonman has put up his testing now too and he saw a little more improvement on 1155 than Stren did.

Whether its worth upgrading from a Supremacy is always just going to be a personal call because the Supremacy was already a great block. The EVO is now just an even better upgrade for people from other brand blocks.

Edit: It also may be the case that the EVO will further improve with the release of new inserts and or jet plates just as Supremacy and HF did during their life times.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Now that belongs on akira749's Xenomorph build... It's the spitting image of the Sulaco ship in Alien 1, or some of the Space Marines' equipment in Aliens.


----------



## Kukielka

Guess I post some pics too, full album here.


----------



## corysti

I've been away from watercooling for a while but new build was in need.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

How many pumps is "required" for 2x MO-RA3 420, EK-Supremacy, 2x EK-Dominator X4, EK-FB ASUS RIVBE (mosfet and chipset) and 4x R9 290X? I am planning on using 6x QD3's, maybe 8x QD3's and about 8x 90 degree angled fittings and 9x 45's. Both soft-tube and hard-tubing.

Is it possible to mount tube-reservoirs on the front of the MO-RA3's in some way or another? For example by using EK-X-res 140 with D5 pump. I could have been running two of those in serial for a total of 2x D5's for that loop. I am using 2x Swiftech MCP655's with the XSPC Dual D5 reservoir at the moment.


----------



## andytom69




----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andytom69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why not have the CPU on the custom loop too?


----------



## andytom69

two loop for me on this project ..no more rad , one short loop , great for the two gpu work (temps max 50° in full load)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andytom69*
> 
> two loop for me on this project ..no more rad , one short loop , great for the two gpu work (temps max 50° in full load)


Feels odd having an AIO and a custom loop in same box to me...oh well.

Also, 50C max load doesn't mean much without qualifying with ambient temps


----------



## Hanoverfist

Another look at EVO..

http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Hi Res/IMG_0246_zpsaf100ffe.jpg.html

http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Hi Res/IMG_0270_zps9c64ea01.jpg.html


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like every other ek block, photos look good though


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> My modding project is complete, and I would like to present to you the final photoshoot for my rig. It's name is Monolith!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Massive photodump!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for checking out my build! I am working on a video walkthrough of the mod as I type this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen


Beautiful machine sir!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakmeo95*
> 
> Corsair Obsidian Series 800D mod
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Impressive work getting the diagonal tubes in parallel!


----------



## snef

no pics with UV effect, keep these for later


----------



## Ramzinho

why do i dislike of that white block so much.. feel so much like cheese


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Voting open!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1506101/ocn-mod-of-the-month-august-2014-sponsored-class-voting-now-live/0_20


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Then it will be 2x MO-RA3 420 LT's with 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 CSQ (with 250 tube reservoir) at the front of each MO-RA3 with custom acrylic brackets.







Will do some QD3's between the reservoir/pumps that will be ran in serial. Should be good enough to push my temperatures nice and low.


----------



## Puck

Asus would probably make a killing if they released the Thermal Armor in different colors for the Sabertooth boards for those too lazy to remove and paint theirs







.


----------



## VSG

You mean those not wanting to void warranty!


----------



## sinnedone

I think I saw in a youtube video that Asus stance was that painting the armor would not void warranty? oc3d I think


----------



## DarthBaggins

Removing the armor I definitely not voiding the warranty let alone painting it while it's off


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I think I saw in a youtube video that Asus stance was that painting the armor would not void warranty? oc3d I think


Ya, and seeing that I called up Asus. Two separate reps said nope, warranty is void. This was Asus NA anyway.


----------



## morencyam

Hopefully painting the remoaable dust covers doesn't void the warranty since I'm thinking about painting those for a little contrast


----------



## Gualichu04

My build is complete. Cell phone pic is the best i can do.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, and seeing that I called up Asus. Two separate reps said nope, warranty is void. This was Asus NA anyway.


Yeah maybe its different in the UK then.


----------



## sakmeo95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Impressive work getting the diagonal tubes in parallel!










Thank you for your interest


----------



## khemist

For real!


----------



## suwit hrc thai

IN WIN TOU "THE DIAMOND FUR


----------



## Raul-7

Amazing. One of the best builds I've seen.


----------



## QAKE

In Win Tòu Builds are really uncommon, but they are beautiful when done well.
Principal reason to that is the price of those...
I really want one one day


----------



## Lefik

That's stunning. What kind of rads can you fit in that thing?


----------



## ShadowRSA

Hi guys, building my first Custom loop in a haf X. Here is the link for those interested http://www.overclock.net/t/1510104/work-log-haf-x-getting-wet

Looking forward to joining the club









Got my rads recently and will be uploading more pics of what i have so far in my build log. Cheers


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Getting closer. Need a couple 90 degree compression fittings


----------



## MocoIMO

Hey guys, I plan to pull the trigger for my WC loop tonight and I am pretty sure I got everything I need since I've been planning a while. Still I would rather be safe than sorry, so do you guys see anything wrong with the list below?

Planned List:
XSPC EX360 Rad x2
Primochill Flex Tubing 3/8 x 1/2 10Ft Retail
EK Supremacy CPU Block for Intel 115X
EK 780Ti Classified Block for Kingpin Ti
3/8 Stop Plug x2 (for GPU block ends)
3/8 x 1/2 Compression fitting x 10
Frozen Q Micro Res
Alphacool Pump

P.S - I'm cramming all of this into a Corsair 350D


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MocoIMO*
> 
> Hey guys, I plan to pull the trigger for my WC loop tonight and I am pretty sure I got everything I need since I've been planning a while. Still I would rather be safe than sorry, so do you guys see anything wrong with the list below?
> 
> Planned List:
> XSPC EX360 Rad x2
> Primochill Flex Tubing 3/8 x 1/2 10Ft Retail
> EK Supremacy CPU Block for Intel 115X
> EK 780Ti Classified Block for Kingpin Ti
> 3/8 Stop Plug x2 (for GPU block ends)
> 3/8 x 1/2 Compression fitting x 10
> Frozen Q Micro Res
> Alphacool Pump
> 
> P.S - I'm cramming all of this into a Corsair 350D


How do you plan to fit those triple fan dual radiators into that case?


----------



## MocoIMO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How do you plan to fit those triple fan dual radiators into that case?


One on top and the other on bottom with the use of my trusted Dremel and a couple of other mods to make it all work


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> 3/8 Stop Plug x2 (for GPU block ends)


You need 1/4 thread stop plug.


----------



## morencyam

Where are you going to put the PSU?


----------



## MocoIMO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You need 1/4 thread stop plug.


Glad I asked, Thank you sir









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Where are you going to put the PSU?


I am using brackets to mount in in the front


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently not that low......that damage is repeated down the wire.


The #1 issue iv'e had with phobya splitters is that the male heads have serious issues actually locking in with female terminals... had to throw away a ton of phobya & just make my own.


----------



## VSG

PPC Labor day discount:
Quote:


> Labor Day is the time to honor every hard-working man and woman out there, the backbone of our whole country, the good 'ol USA. Let us all enjoy some time off with family and friends. We have new arrivals coming every day including many new items that are now in stock! Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend $50+, get 8% off: "LABOR14-8"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 29th through September 2nd 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## DarthBaggins

nice, just wish they would offer more off but hey something is better than nothing


----------



## skupples

basically voids sales tax.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Finished my sleeving + latching











Many more pics in build log


----------



## lowfat

So does a FCPU Labor Day code exist?









@GaMbi2004 hawt.


----------



## morencyam

I think I remember seeing somewhere that FCPU is going to start sending out discount codes like PPCs does. Can't remember where I saw that, or if it's even true, but I do think they should. Probably drum up a little extra business in doing so

GaMbi, I'm normally not too fond of those carbon fiber monsoon fittings, but those fit perfectly in your build.
EDIT: upon closer inspection I realize those are not the carbon fiber fittings. They are the Chain Gun fittings, if I am not mistaken. But still, my remarks stay the same


----------



## Nilin404

Random update on my rig. Kinda sloppy but I'll fix it whenever I'm not busy from work.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> My modding project is complete, and I would like to present to you the final photoshoot for my rig. It's name is Monolith!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Massive photodump!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for checking out my build! I am working on a video walkthrough of the mod as I type this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen


Fantastic job. Love it.


----------



## royce5950

My fiance hates it when I refer to the regulars in the watercooling club "the guys" lol, she doesnt necessarily hate it, its just a joke between us  so ill say something to the tune of "look bun, one of the guys was featured on the Forbes website..." and in return I get









Anyways a couple pages back there was some talk related to colored sabertooth dust covers and incase anyone had not seen this pic I figured I would share it and include that I think if they put another one out on the x99 chipset I think it will either be this one or there will be two; original army, and arctic army.


----------



## royce5950

Oops lol, deleted post on the account geggeg pointed out x99 is already out.

I read that the socket is 2011 v3 if I remember correctly. Is that compatible with the ek supremacy clean csq along with the 2011 bracket or is v3 a whole different thing? I may be wrong about v3 but thats what I read on the msi newsletter.


----------



## VSG

What are you talking about? x99 released already yesterday!


----------



## Plutonium10

Here's my first water cooling loop. Nothing fancy but it does a good job of cooling the 3770k at 4.5 GHz.


----------



## skupples

Nice and clean!


----------



## royce5950

Wow the x99 boards are mighty spendy compared to z87 and z97 when those came out... 19 boards on newegg under the 2011v3 socket and all range from roughly 290 - 415 usd


----------



## failwheeldrive

They get more expensive than that lol. The RVE and WS are both over $500.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> Wow the x99 boards are mighty spendy compared to z87 and z97 when those came out... 19 boards on newegg under the 2011v3 socket and all range from roughly 290 - 415 usd


Because it's a high-end chipset. X58, X79, and X99 were always more expensive than their midrange chipsets P55, P67-Z68, and Z97.


----------



## lowfat

More polishing (and painting).


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> More polishing (and painting).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip Snap


Turns out early clean and nice!


----------



## MetallicAcid

Cheers everyone







I am happy that you guys like my Monolith project ^^,

Kind regards,
Justin


----------



## MrGrievous

Its finally done, well almost still need to get the sleeving done but none the lest it done


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Cheers everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am happy that you guys like my Monolith project ^^,
> 
> Kind regards,
> Justin


Now back to work on the TJ07 lol


----------



## WiSK

I had a leak last night from a Monsoon G1/4 LED plug









The fitting and o-ring are fine, well machined and water-tight. However, the little circular window is attached with a kind of clear rubber/silicone adhesive strip. It seems that the adhesive stopped sticking and the window became loose. When I dismantled the fitting, I only had to push very lightly with a pencil tip for the window to become entirely detached.

I would take my own photo but don't have enough macro to show the detail. So here is product image with purple line showing where the window became loose.



I wouldn't normally name and shame, but this is the _second time it's happened with same brand of product_. Last year I had a drip on a white one and put it down to experience. I didn't investigate, just replaced the fitting and thought no more. But now it's happened again, this time on a matte black one I have in my daily rig.


----------



## royce5950

Good tip WiSK, sorry to hear about that and hopefully no damage was caused by the leak.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my first water cooling loop. Nothing fancy but it does a good job of cooling the 3770k at 4.5 GHz.


Nice loop. Gonna be redoing my loop soon to.

As a fellow 800D user, I highly suggest you invert the rear-exhaust to a rear-intake + put a fan-filter on it. This case has really bad airflow


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Nice loop. Gonna be redoing my loop soon to.
> 
> As a fellow 800D user, I highly suggest you invert the rear-exhaust to a rear-intake + put a fan-filter on it. This case has really bad airflow


Yes, the airflow on this 800D is certainly nothing special compared to a lot of other offerings that have come since but it is a classic, haha. I did have the rear fan as a filtered intake before as you suggested, but I recently upgraded my rad to an SR-1 and decided to run the fans on it as intakes with Silverstone fine mesh filters so the case airflow is reasonably balanced with a rear exhaust. I wasn't too sure about the idea of blowing warm air into the case but the rad exhaust isn't very hot at all even at the end of a 12-hour Prime95 test.


----------



## Ragsters

Here is mine:




Only thing left for me to do is add another graphics card. I just don't know how to arrange the loop with a new card.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Here is mine:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing left for me to do is add another graphics card. I just don't know how to arrange the loop with a new card.


I have the same motherboard and when I bought my second GPU I just went with the stock chipset heat spreader. FYI my current PCH temp is 50ºC.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> I have the same motherboard and when I bought my second GPU I just went with the stock chipset heat spreader. FYI my current PCH temp is 50ºC.


Hey thanks! Yeah it looks like that is what ill have to do. Nice build by the way. Oh and how did you check the temp of the PCH? I would love to compare.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plutonium10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Nice loop. Gonna be redoing my loop soon to.
> 
> As a fellow 800D user, I highly suggest you invert the rear-exhaust to a rear-intake + put a fan-filter on it. This case has really bad airflow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the airflow on this 800D is certainly nothing special compared to a lot of other offerings that have come since but it is a classic, haha. I did have the rear fan as a filtered intake before as you suggested, but I recently upgraded my rad to an SR-1 and decided to run the fans on it as intakes with Silverstone fine mesh filters so the case airflow is reasonably balanced with a rear exhaust. I wasn't too sure about the idea of blowing warm air into the case but the rad exhaust isn't very hot at all even at the end of a 12-hour Prime95 test.
Click to expand...

I find that the airflow is kinda restricted even with the bottom + rear intake, but them both being filtered means that I have VERY little dust in my case. And all the hot air is exhausted out the top









If I could I'd like to upgrade to a case with some front intakes, or more bottom intakes.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Hey thanks! Yeah it looks like that is what ill have to do. Nice build by the way. Oh and how did you check the temp of the PCH? I would love to compare.


I assume that this waterblock is a bit pointless. I used HWiNFO but I believe that Aida does also the trick.


----------



## skupples

Most modern & decent quality boards include PCH temps, just gotta figure out which is which in your monitoring tool of choice. AI suite actually calls it PCH, but then you have to install AI suite -.-

My Chip is currently Idle @ 30C w/ PCH @ 32C...


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Most modern & decent quality boards include PCH temps, just gotta figure out which is which in your monitoring tool of choice. AI suite actually calls it PCH, but then you have to install AI suite -.-
> 
> My Chip is currently Idle @ 30C w/ PCH @ 32C...


What do you use to monitor the PCH? I am trying to avoid installing AI suite.


----------



## Plutonium10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I find that the airflow is kinda restricted even with the bottom + rear intake, but them both being filtered means that I have VERY little dust in my case. And all the hot air is exhausted out the top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could I'd like to upgrade to a case with some front intakes, or more bottom intakes.


Factors that led me to switch to top rad intake, bottom intake and rear exhaust:

1) The SP rad fans handle the extra restriction of the fine mesh Silverstone filters I am using much better than regular case fans.
2) Having the rad sucking air into the case rather than blowing it out seems like a much quieter setup to my ears.
3) With 4 filtered intake fans (3 top, 1 bottom) and only 1 exhaust, my case has positive pressure which controls dust well.
4) Any air being sucked out of the case by blower-style GPU fans helps balance case airflow instead of making it worse.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What do you use to monitor the PCH? I am trying to avoid installing AI suite.


if i'm remembering correctly, Open HW monitor reads PCH.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> if i'm remembering correctly, Open HW monitor reads PCH.


Doesn't show up for me.


----------



## skupples

I'll try to find what I was using before switching to special AIDA. It's probably one of those random "TZ00" type labeled ones.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> if i'm remembering correctly, Open HW monitor reads PCH.
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't show up for me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

That is not *Open* HW Monitor.


----------



## Kimir

Open hardware monitor reads it on the RIVE, AIDA too.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Now back to work on the TJ07 lol


Yes sir! NO, WAIT!! DON'T WHIP ME AGAIN!!

/J.


----------



## Gualichu04

Took a better picture of the inside of the case. Still lg g2 phone pic even though the camera is modified the quality is still not great.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That is not *Open* HW Monitor.


This is:


----------



## Red1776

delete


----------



## tatmMRKIV

So what are supposedly the best thick 480s out right now?


----------



## mus1mus

Monstas. 80mm



Gen Two Extremes.



They are on different fan speed spectrum.


----------



## Puck

I have two 480 Gen2 extremes and they are great rads. Very purdy, but need some nice higher speed fans.

I run mine with 2200rpm 80cfm fans in push, but since I also run a restrictive mesh filters that kill the fans performance I really need to add some pulls when I get time...delta still higher then I would like. Eventually will add a third and push/pull all three...just because "why not" LOL.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Monstas. 80mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gen Two Extremes.
> 
> 
> 
> They are on different fan speed spectrum
> 
> 
> .


Just a FYI, Monstas are actually 85mm thick. I've no idea why Alphacool markets them as 80mm rads. I always like to point that out because more than once I've seen that extra 5mm be the deal-breaker in whether they will fit or not.

If you've got room for a monsta in push pull nothing beats it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads


----------



## jtom320

RX V3 is really good as well. Someone in here mentioned it to me when I was looking and I've been really happy with it. Finish on it is pretty good for a rad and it comes well packaged. It's also fairly inexpensive compared to the Monsta, is barely outperformed by it and is much thinner.

I do think the new Nemesis might be slightly better though I'm not actually sure.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I am using custom PWM controller powered delta fans and noctua commercial fans

for these 480s either noctua 3000rpm industrial fans or AFB1212SHE fans
probably just in pull I mean push-pull probably would be excessive

well I am grabbing a 360 nemesis but I have 2 spaces for 480s that aren't gonna be seen,
I was gonna go with some V3 XSPC but they look a lil not so great(not that that really matters) and i thought about the monstas but they are out of stock..
and the nemesis 480s I think might be out of my price range

I am also looking for some high flow rads as I have special commercial pumps I will be using

well that and I want to try and use some aurora 2

so nemesis good? or would the gen 2 be better with high speed fans?

or is the performance difference negligible over alphacool ut60 or monsta? Or they just no good for high flow?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Just a FYI, Monstas are actually 85mm thick. I've no idea why Alphacool markets them as 80mm rads. I always like to point that out because more than once I've seen that extra 5mm be the deal-breaker in whether they will fit or not.
> 
> If you've got room for a monsta in push pull nothing beats it.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads


Yeah, it is weird and I don't get it too why OCool often refer to it as 80 mm. Good that you warn people. However, bundymania results points to the Monsta been on top of charts at higher speeds (1200 rpm and 1500 rpm) while not on top and performing worse on the third inferior pack of rads actually at low fan speeds. So, not so absolute, it all depends on fan speed which makes sense since is a very thick rad.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> RX V3 is really good as well. Someone in here mentioned it to me when I was looking and I've been really happy with it. Finish on it is pretty good for a rad and it comes well packaged. It's also fairly inexpensive compared to the Monsta, is barely outperformed by it and is much thinner.
> 
> I do think the new Nemesis might be slightly better though I'm not actually sure.


I think was me and even took some pictures for you. Glad you are happy with it mate


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah, it is weird and I don't get it too why OCool often refer to it as 80 mm. Good that you warn people. However, bundymania results points to the Monsta been on top of charts at higher speeds (1200 rpm and 1500 rpm) while not on top and performing worse on the third inferior pack of rads actually at low fan speeds. So, not so absolute, it all depends on fan speed which makes sense since is a very thick rad.
> I think was me and even took some pictures for you. Glad you are happy with it mate


I think it was actually. And yes it has been excellent. I actually picked up an EX 360 as well and been happy with that as well.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well I will get those once they are available again then, I got 1 nemesis gtx 480 for now


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah, it is weird and I don't get it too why OCool often refer to it as 80 mm. Good that you warn people. However, bundymania results points to the Monsta been on top of charts at higher speeds (1200 rpm and 1500 rpm) while not on top and performing worse on the third inferior pack of rads actually at low fan speeds. So, not so absolute, it all depends on fan speed which makes sense since is a very thick rad.


What Bundy's tests shows it that somewhere between 800rpms and 1200 rpms the Monsta takes the lead. How does it perform at 1000rpms? One can only speculate.

It's also a test done with a single set of fans. In push-pull, which is the only way to run a monsta rad in any case imho, it's a different story. Martin shows push-pull performance benefits range from 15% to 30% with the greatest benefits seen on thicker / more restrictive rads, and thinner rads less so. It's too bad Martin never did any tests on the Monsta or any rad thicker than 60mm or I suspect the max benefits of push-pull would be slightly greater than that. What I'm getting at is the Monsta likely outperforms other rads in that test at even lower rpms if the same tests had been performed with fans in push-pull. Even moreso imho if he had used better performing rad fans than the NB PL2s than he used. I'm just sayin'.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What Bundy's tests shows it that somewhere between 800rpms and 1200 rpms the Monsta takes the lead. How does it perform at 1000rpms? One can only speculate.
> 
> It's also a test done with a single set of fans. In push-pull, which is the only way to run a monsta rad in any case imho, it's a different story. Martin shows push-pull performance benefits range from 15% to 30% with the greatest benefits seen on thicker / more restrictive rads, and thinner rads less so. It's too bad Martin never did any tests on the Monsta or any rad thicker than 60mm or I suspect the max benefits of push-pull would be slightly greater than that. What I'm getting at is the Monsta likely outperforms other rads in that test at even lower rpms if the same tests had been performed with fans in push-pull. Even moreso imho if he had used better performing rad fans than the NB PL2s than he used. I'm just sayin'.


Yep agree the Monsta should be run in push-pull and most likely should perform better at lower rpm in such configuration. Was just pointing that in Bundymania database that is not the case. Do you still have it yours? Would be fun to put it to the test and add it to the community test thread. BTW really nice video you posted there the guy nail the concepts in a very easy way.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I dont think I really have to worry about push pull with the fans I got lined up... I can buy more but I really think that would be overkill with the fans I am using..

the noctuas are 7mm h20,and the delta she are fans are 150+ CFM


----------



## mus1mus

I agree with all you guys.









It's really a deal breaker for the Monsta being 5mm thicker than what they're specified. Add in the fact that you need to really do a Push-Pull set-up to aid with a very thick radiator. Or a very high static pressure fan.









The GTX is also a unique rad in design. Where, you need to observe how you orient fan direction.



I also forgot about the RX V3. They have raised the bar higher than the RX V2 even after slimming down the new rev with a line of tube channels omitted.. That is a nice rad as well..


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> The GTX is also a unique rad in design. Where, you need to observe how you orient fan direction.


So should the fans be oriented towards the hot side?


----------



## mus1mus

IMO, cold to hot side.. You blow cool air to the cold part to hot side..

There's a review saying he noticed quite an ample of degrees difference trying each config.. Just can't find it..


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> IMO, cold to hot side.. You blow cool air to the cold part to hot side..
> 
> There's a review saying he noticed quite an ample of degrees difference trying each config.. Just can't find it..


Damn, I need to reconfigure.


----------



## mus1mus

In short, if you put one into the extremities of your case, you are always forced to have them in-taking air from outside the case.









Not much of a problem.. They're also quite restrictive so be sure you have enough pumping powah..


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> In short, if you put one into the extremities of your case, you are always forced to have them in-taking air from outside the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much of a problem.. They're also quite restrictive so be sure you have enough pumping powah..


Mine is external so it doesn't matter, right now I have the fans pushing air from the hot side to the cold side. That's incorrect as you said. Need to reposition to blow air from the cold towards the hot side.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Guys, I'm probably gonna get the Corsair 780T case and I would need some tips on the best 360mm rads.
I currently have Alphacool NexXxos ST30 (360mm), I had a 600T and I couldn't fit a bigger radiator, I assume the 780T has place for a bigger one.

I put 2 360's in it and currently it would need to cool a 3570k and 2 HD7870's. I will upgrade next year though.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Mine is external so it doesn't matter, right now I have the fans pushing air from the hot side to the cold side. That's incorrect as you said. Need to reposition to blow air from the cold towards the hot side.


Well, you could test which does offer better cooling. I may be wrong ..


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What Bundy's tests shows it that somewhere between 800rpms and 1200 rpms the Monsta takes the lead. How does it perform at 1000rpms? One can only speculate.
> 
> It's also a test done with a single set of fans. In push-pull, which is the only way to run a monsta rad in any case imho, it's a different story. Martin shows push-pull performance benefits range from 15% to 30% with the greatest benefits seen on thicker / more restrictive rads, and thinner rads less so. It's too bad Martin never did any tests on the Monsta or any rad thicker than 60mm or I suspect the max benefits of push-pull would be slightly greater than that. What I'm getting at is the Monsta likely outperforms other rads in that test at even lower rpms if the same tests had been performed with fans in push-pull. Even moreso imho if he had used better performing rad fans than the NB PL2s than he used. I'm just sayin'.


Glider Hr did some testing of the Monsta and didn't see improvement over the UT60 ... Even in push pull.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?287200-Flower-Labs-News-Comparison-of-Radiator-Cooling-Efficiency


----------



## lowfat

I personally wouldn't ever buy Alphacool over HWLabs.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I personally wouldn't ever buy Alphacool over HWLabs.


Which reminds me... who is the OEM of Darkside rads?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I personally wouldn't ever buy Alphacool over HWLabs.


Damn right.
HWL are,for me,top of the pile,along with XSPC and AquaC rads


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I personally wouldn't ever buy Alphacool over HWLabs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Damn right.
> HWL are,for me,top of the pile,along with XSPC and AquaC rads


These^
HWL if price is not a factor. XSPC is price is a factor
I do still love my old Thermochill PA 120.4 though


----------



## MeanBruce

New build parts from Performance PCs, has anyone used these Demciflex 120.2 and 120.3 FlexBay filters? They're gorgeous, the fit must be spot on I'm guessing. Planning on mounting the 120.2 inside the CaseLabs 120.2 rad mount for front intake as to not change the gorgeous CaseLabs grill aesthetic.

I've seen the 120.3 mounted on the inside of the extended top, think I'll just lay it on top of the rad, It's so thin won't obstruct the standard much thinner top panel I'm using. Also picked up two Bitspower 3/4x1/2 dual rotaries for the EK EVO plexi block, the Monsoons would have destroyed the plexi surface, they come with the gripping teeth on their underside.

Lot of work ahead of me.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9519_zps89c54fbb.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9530_zps75f3e581.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9440_zps5649cc5f.jpg.html

Four possible loop configurations, six if you count rotating the CPU block CCW to align the grooves with the die.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_9518_zpsab019d5f.jpg.html


----------



## SinatraFan

Has anyone had any problems with their rigid tube cracking? I'm thinking it might have been me while I was bending them, but as I've been leak/burn testing my Death Star rig, I've run into two tubes now that were cracked and had a pin-hole leak. Has anyone else run into this problem?


----------



## JLMS2010

Knock on wood. I've never had any issues with them leaking/cracking. What brand?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Has anyone had any problems with their rigid tube cracking? I'm thinking it might have been me while I was bending them, but as I've been leak/burn testing my Death Star rig, I've run into two tubes now that were cracked and had a pin-hole leak. Has anyone else run into this problem?


You have pics of the tube?

Where are the cracks?


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have pics of the tube?
> 
> Where are the cracks?




There's the tube I replaced this morning. The other tube which I've already discarded had a crack similar to this as well.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Has anyone had any problems with their rigid tube cracking? I'm thinking it might have been me while I was bending them, but as I've been leak/burn testing my Death Star rig, I've run into two tubes now that were cracked and had a pin-hole leak. Has anyone else run into this problem?


HERE

And HERE

Voilà

Those are my experiences









Hope it'll help you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have pics of the tube?
> 
> Where are the cracks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's the tube I replaced this morning. The other tube which I've already discarded had a crack similar to this as well.
Click to expand...

Was it under stress? As in,was it being asked to deflect a lot for fitment?


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Was it under stress? As in,was it being asked to deflect a lot for fitment?


The tube I replaced earlier, I would say possibly yes and believe that may have been the cause of the crack. The tube shown however, was definitely a good straight fit. I'm thinking perhaps it cracked while I was bending it... at least that is my hope, because if it cracked after install, I have to be concerned. Temps have been super low and can't believe it would be a factor under any conditions.

The more I think of it, both of the cracks are near the end of the tube. I'll betcha $1 that the cracks happened when using that bloody monsoon cutting mitre box that came with the bending kit. That box is so tight that any flex in the tubing will indeed cause a crack.



That cutting mitre box in the bottom of the pic was the cause of many cracks! if the tube is bent anywhere near the cut, there's the possibility that the heat causes a bit of deformity of the tube and when inserted into that box, the cutting action caused a crack or two. Perhaps, I simply didn't catch these two when I was making them


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Normally twisting forces cause those type of cracks,next time heat a bigger section of tube so the transition from the heated to non heated section is further away from the bend.

I hear you on the mitre box,it can be a source of heartache if you have multiple bends. I recommend a fret saw,they seem to cut with much less 'drag' thru acrylic.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Also,I have a new ghetto leaktest method!

For this you will need:

A spare port in your loop,fill port will do.
A spare fitting for acrylic tube.
A piece of tube 6" long.
A balloon,bigger the better
A straw

Screw the fitting in to the port,insert tube,blow balloon up and quickly secure over the tube.insert straw in to the neck of the balloon to re-inflate the pressure lost to pressurizing the loop. Remove straw and seal

If the balloon deflates then you have a leak.

Ghetto fabulous.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Also,I have a new ghetto leaktest method!
> 
> For this you will need:
> 
> A spare port in your loop,fill port will do.
> A spare fitting for acrylic tube.
> A piece of tube 6" long.
> A balloon,bigger the better
> 
> Screw the fitting in to the port,insert tube,blow balloon up and quickly secure over the tube.
> 
> If the balloon deflates then you have a leak.
> 
> Ghetto fabulous.


Nice! Will have to use this. Thanks for the tip on the fret saw. Will look into this as well.


----------



## VSG

lol I love it









+1


----------



## alancsalt

Three posts deleted.

If you see a rule breach, report, please do not quote or reply.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Glider Hr did some testing of the Monsta and didn't see improvement over the UT60 ... Even in push pull.
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?287200-Flower-Labs-News-Comparison-of-Radiator-Cooling-Efficiency


Interesting. How odd the results are so starkly different from Bundy's testing.









I have nowhere near the setup for a reliable/documentable testing procedure like that but I do have a 360 UT60 and a 360 Monsta and I cannot replicate those results or anything close to them. At ~1000rpms w/ AP-45s in push-pull my Monsta definitely outperforms my UT60 by quite a bit. Heck, at around 1200rpms in just push my Monsta pretty much matches up with my UT60 in push-pull and at any fan speed faster than that the Monsta in just push clearly wins. Glider Hr seems to have a more elaborate setup, but Bundy's testing sure seems to jive more with what I see irl.


----------



## techjesse

I have a Monsta 480 80mm thick, 10 FPI running in push-pull CM R4 fans 2000rpm at 19dBa and a RX360 V3 360 Radiator running push CM r4 fans.Here's my temps, i7 3930K at 4.5GHz 1.3v, TriFire R9 280x. Yep, the best of XSPC & Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta.









TigerSun


----------



## mus1mus

Not starting a flame but 19dBa at 2000RPM is just too good to be true.

Esp from a brand called CM.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not starting a flame but 19dBa at 2000RPM is just too good to be true.
> 
> Esp from a brand called CM.


Sadly this,CM stats are very optimistic....


----------



## techjesse

Check'em out 19dBa







http://www.frys.com/product/6998827?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG I can barely hear my computer


----------



## mus1mus

If that cools your rig, and is not bothering you with noise, no ones going to object mate.


----------



## reset1101

Noise measurements by manufacturers tend to be too optimistic for my taste. Besides, I havent tried any fan that isnt audible above 900-1000rpms, im talking Be Quiets, Noctuas, Noiseblockers... I can hear airflow above those rpms. You may be lucky and your ears hear less sound than mine. Because any fan at 2000rpms would be too noisy for me.

If your PC is silent for you then thats the important thing. But I can hear 2 flyes having sex in the next room so Im a lot more demanding when it comes to noise.


----------



## mus1mus

I bet you've heard some laughs from people who've just read your comment as well..

You did hear me grin right?.


----------



## techjesse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Noise measurements by manufacturers tend to be too optimistic for my taste. Besides, I havent tried any fan that isnt audible above 900-1000rpms, im talking Be Quiets, Noctuas, Noiseblockers... I can hear airflow above those rpms. You may be lucky and your ears hear less sound than mine. Because any fan at 2000rpms would be too noisy for me.
> 
> If your PC is silent for you then thats the important thing. But I can hear 2 flyes having sex in the next room so Im a lot more demanding when it comes to noise.


I did lose some of my hearing when I was "in country" (Military Vets will know what I'm talking about) but not all of it, my girlfriends say they can hardly hear it. Yeah, I'm happy with my rig


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> IMO, cold to hot side.. You blow cool air to the cold part to hot side..
> 
> There's a review saying he noticed quite an ample of degrees difference trying each config.. Just can't find it..
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, I need to reconfigure.
Click to expand...

That radiator design is very similar to that of stacking rads.
Martin did an in-depth test of this here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/










As you can see blowing the cold rad onto the hot rad is better for temps. (6vs7 & 4vs5)


----------



## morencyam

Cooler Master R4's are definitely not 19dba. I did a comparison of the R4's and Gentle Typhoon 2150 RPM and both running at full speed(~1900-2000RPM R4s vs ~2100RPM GTs), the Typhoons were noticeably quieter. And the Typhoons are rated at 29-30dba. But what is loud to one person, may not be loud to another, and vice versa. Just thought I'd share my experience.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Cooler Master R4's are definitely not 19dba. I did a comparison of the R4's and Gentle Typhoon 2150 RPM and both running at full speed(~1900-2000RPM R4s vs ~2100RPM GTs), the Typhoons were noticeably quieter. And the Typhoons are rated at 29-30dba. But what is loud to one person, may not be loud to another, and vice versa. Just thought I'd share my experience.


The R4s are rated at 19dB for like 800RPM or something. I remember being utterly annoyed when I got them and them sounding like 45dB+.

They're *LOUD* and only 'decent' fans. I would stay well clear of these and instead grab either GTs, Noctuas or Cougars.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Noise measurements by manufacturers tend to be too optimistic for my taste. Besides, I havent tried any fan that isnt audible above 900-1000rpms, im talking Be Quiets, Noctuas, Noiseblockers... I can hear airflow above those rpms. You may be lucky and your ears hear less sound than mine. Because any fan at 2000rpms would be too noisy for me.
> 
> If your PC is silent for you then thats the important thing. But I can hear 2 flyes having sex in the next room so Im a lot more demanding when it comes to noise.


Since the Grateful Dead are no longer around to register on the Richter scale, you might want to consider going to some Heavy Metal concerts , or hanging out in the pits at an F1 race or... just get a GF/wife/partner which is .." loud " in bed and outside bed just nags & complains all of the time... that'll cure oversensitive hearing


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *techjesse*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Noise measurements by manufacturers tend to be too optimistic for my taste. Besides, I havent tried any fan that isnt audible above 900-1000rpms, im talking Be Quiets, Noctuas, Noiseblockers... I can hear airflow above those rpms. You may be lucky and your ears hear less sound than mine. Because any fan at 2000rpms would be too noisy for me.
> 
> If your PC is silent for you then thats the important thing. But I can hear 2 flyes having sex in the next room so Im a lot more demanding when it comes to noise.
> 
> 
> 
> I did lose some of my hearing when I was "in country" (Military Vets will know what I'm talking about) but not all of it, my girlfriends say they can hardly hear it. Yeah, I'm happy with my rig
Click to expand...

Let's be honest, you're suffering from selective hearing loss... your hearing gets worse when the GF is nagging about shoes, dresses, cleaning up, marriage, visiting her parents, ... anything really


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I bet you've heard some laughs from people who've just read your comment as well..
> 
> You did hear me grin right?.


Haha my hearing is not that good xD Id be mad long before if I did.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *techjesse*
> 
> I did lose some of my hearing when I was "in country" (Military Vets will know what I'm talking about) but not all of it, my girlfriends say they can hardly hear it. Yeah, I'm happy with my rig


Thats the important thing, that you are happy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Cooler Master R4's are definitely not 19dba. I did a comparison of the R4's and Gentle Typhoon 2150 RPM and both running at full speed(~1900-2000RPM R4s vs ~2100RPM GTs), the Typhoons were noticeably quieter. And the Typhoons are rated at 29-30dba. But what is loud to one person, may not be loud to another, and vice versa. Just thought I'd share my experience.


My trouble with GTs was the engine noise you could heare below 5-600rpms when you couldnt hear airflow. It was a biet annoying. Great fans tho, Ive used 1150pms ones as heatsink fans several years.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Since the Grateful Dead are no longer around to register on the Richter scale, you might want to consider going to some Heavy Metal concerts , or hanging out in the pits at an F1 race or... just get a GF/wife/partner which is .." loud " in bed and outside bed just nags & complains all of the time... that'll cure oversensitive hearing


Ha ha your methods could work long term, but I dont thinks the migranes I would take though the way would be worth it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Cooler Master R4's are definitely not 19dba. I did a comparison of the R4's and Gentle Typhoon 2150 RPM and both running at full speed(~1900-2000RPM R4s vs ~2100RPM GTs), the Typhoons were noticeably quieter. And the Typhoons are rated at 29-30dba. But what is loud to one person, may not be loud to another, and vice versa. Just thought I'd share my experience.


Martin (and just about every one else around here) would agree with you ...

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The R4s are rated at 19dB for like 800RPM or something. I remember being utterly annoyed when I got them and them sounding like 45dB+.
> 
> They're *LOUD* and only 'decent' fans. I would stay well clear of these and instead grab either GTs, Noctuas or Cougars.


Oh I agree completely. I would never run them more than 1500RPM, and that was only when I was gaming or folding. When I was idle they'd go down to 1000RPM and were much more tolerable. Cougars weren't around yet when I had the R4s and stocked up on them when they were on sale for $5 at my local Microcenter. I'll throw them in a build for a friend every once in a while if I need a single fan, but usually run them off a 7V adapter


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The R4s are rated at 19dB for like 800RPM or something. I remember being utterly annoyed when I got them and them sounding like 45dB+.
> 
> They're *LOUD* and only 'decent' fans. I would stay well clear of these and instead grab either GTs, Noctuas or Cougars.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I agree completely. I would never run them more than 1500RPM, and that was only when I was gaming or folding. When I was idle they'd go down to 1000RPM and were much more tolerable. Cougars weren't around yet when I had the R4s and stocked up on them when they were on sale for $5 at my local Microcenter. I'll throw them in a build for a friend every once in a while if I need a single fan, but usually run them off a 7V adapter
Click to expand...

I would advise against using Cougars in a horizontal position though. I have had 2/5 of my Cougar Vortex fans just simply die from being in a horizontal position at ~750-800rpm. Don't get me wrong, they're good fans. The 140mm I have as a rear-intake is very solid and great for getting through my grill + anti-dust cover. Good SP.



Spoiler: Pic of a dead one currently







Planning on replacing them with Noctuas because Noctua has some anti-vibration mounts


----------



## VSG

Stren has a review up on the Swiftech Apogee XL: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/09/02/swiftech-apogee-xl-performance-pcs-customized-rog-edition-review/


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Stren has a review up on the Swiftech Apogee XL: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/09/02/swiftech-apogee-xl-performance-pcs-customized-rog-edition-review/


We think we know what the issue might have been with his block. If he failed to orient the base plate the right way when put it back together then this would certainly affect his results. That is if he did his testing after he took the block apart. There are water channels on either side of the base plate that correspond to water channels in the housing. If the base plate is installed with the channels oriented the wrong way then this will degrade the performance of the block.



This is what we mean. Circled in red are the corresponding water channels that have to line up. If they aren't oriented correctly when the block is put back together then this will degrade the performance of the block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

^^ DAMAGE CONTROL DAMAGE CONTROL !!!111!!!!

That was quick......


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Planning on replacing them with Noctuas because Noctua has some anti-vibration mounts


3 of these would be my suggestion in Noctua:

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en

Although I use 3 NoiseBlocker NB-BlackSilent Pro PL2 in pull in my system and Im very happy with the results:

http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/noiseblocker-it-fans/nb-blacksilent-pro-series/120x120x25mm.php?lang=EN


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Planning on replacing them with Noctuas because Noctua has some anti-vibration mounts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 of these would be my suggestion in Noctua:
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en
> 
> Although I use 3 NoiseBlocker NB-BlackSilent Pro PL2 in pull in my system and Im very happy with the results:
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/noiseblocker-it-fans/nb-blacksilent-pro-series/120x120x25mm.php?lang=EN
Click to expand...

Do you think the NF F-12 will be okay for radiator fans? (I cannot get the NF P-12)


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Do you think the NF F-12 will be okay for radiator fans? (I cannot get the NF P-12)


If Im not wrong the F12 is better than the P12 for radiators due to its design, according to Noctua specifications it has quite a lot more static pressure than P12.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We think we know what the issue might have been with his block. If he failed to orient the base plate the right way when put it back together then this would certainly affect his results. That is if he did his testing after he took the block apart. There are water channels on either side of the base plate that correspond to water channels in the housing. If the base plate is installed with the channels oriented the wrong way then this will degrade the performance of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> This is what we mean. Circled in red are the corresponding water channels that have to line up. If they aren't oriented correctly when the block is put back together then this will degrade the performance of the block.


May be right.. but I highly doubt he put it on the wrong way since he explains your channel lay out and even takes it apart the right way









Not saying that hes tests are right or not.. I have the HD myself, and love it! My D5 supplies plenty of pressure for the HD, GPU (XSPC Razor), 120mm black ice, 240mm black ice, 1080(3x360) phobya external at setting 4/5.

Now that you are here.. can you explain the O-ring? IS it for bow?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> May be right.. but I highly doubt he put it on the wrong way since he explains your channel lay out and even takes it apart the right way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not saying that hes tests are right or not.. I have the HD myself, and love it! My D5 supplies plenty of pressure for the HD, GPU (XSPC Razor), 120mm black ice, 240mm black ice, 1080(3x360) phobya external at setting 4/5.
> 
> Now that you are here.. can you explain the O-ring? IS it for bow?


I'm glad to hear that. Now as far as the O-ring is concerned, it's for making a seal between the base plate and the housing. What makes you think it's for the bow of the base plate?


----------



## AlwaysDIY

I think he meant the smaller O-ring in the center of the baseplate/housing, not the outer one. I am curious as well. Is it just to prevent contact between the center of the base plate and the housing when someone zealously over tightens the block on mounting? Or is it to make the base plate protrude, bowing as he said before? Or is it's purpose something completely different?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I would advise against using Cougars in a horizontal position though. I have had 2/5 of my Cougar Vortex fans just simply die from being in a horizontal position at ~750-800rpm. Don't get me wrong, they're good fans. The 140mm I have as a rear-intake is very solid and great for getting through my grill + anti-dust cover. Good SP.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic of a dead one currently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning on replacing them with Noctuas because Noctua has some anti-vibration mounts


Yes, noticed a lot of vibration from my 140 Vortex holding it while spinning. Horizontal to Vertical. But boy, they are whisper quiet compared to my Delta.


----------



## CaliLife17

Anyone seen anymore reviews on the HWL GTX Nemesis? I have only seen the Youtube review, and that German site review. I just received my 2x 480 UT60 Rads, and I'm trying to decide if i should return them and get the Nemesis or maybe even the XSPC RX480 V3. I really liked the multiple Ports of the UT60, but those couple of reviews of the GTX nemesis sure are impressive (and defy logic and everything i thought i new for Rads).

This will be a push/pull setup with SP120 QE Fans connected to an Aquaero 6 XT. Wanted lower RPM fans for noise reduction. Will be cooling a 5960x, 2x 780 Ti KPE (will be upgrading to 880/880 Ti/Titan II). Just seeing if its worth it to get those instead.

Also, what is the best way to clean out these 2x 480 Rads? Should i i just fill them like half way with some distilled water, shake and pour out, and just keep repeating till no more junk comes out?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlwaysDIY*
> 
> I think he meant the smaller O-ring in the center of the baseplate/housing, not the outer one. I am curious as well. Is it just to prevent contact between the center of the base plate and the housing when someone zealously over tightens the block on mounting? Or is it to make the base plate protrude, bowing as he said before? Or is it's purpose something completely different?


Yes, our engineer tells me that the small one is for the bow.


----------



## ROGX

My rig







tell me what you guys think!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> 
> My rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tell me what you guys think!


looks nice, you need to add a second gpu to fill up that evga sli bridge spot, then watercool both of them!


----------



## jtom320

Quick question.

I'm not super handy with tools but I'd like to use a few of these in my next build..

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6949/ex-tub-168/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Silver_BP-WTP-C04.html?tl=g30c101s460

I have a drill but can anyone explain to me exactly what I need to make a 3/8 threaded tap I guess? Just anything from lowes or Home Depot? Found this.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-3-8-16-Thread-Spacing-High-Speed-Steel-Plug-Tap-91-12416/204625861?N=5yc1vZc961

Going to be going through aluminum. I assume this is what I need? Not sure on the thread spacing part of it.

Any advice would be much appreciated. The plan is to have a fitting on both sides.


----------



## Nichismo

Still needs more work, and I need a better phone/camera too, Lol.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> I'm not super handy with tools but I'd like to use a few of these in my next build..
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6949/ex-tub-168/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Silver_BP-WTP-C04.html?tl=g30c101s460
> 
> I have a drill but can anyone explain to me exactly what I need to make a 3/8 threaded tap I guess? Just anything from lowes or Home Depot? Found this.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-3-8-16-Thread-Spacing-High-Speed-Steel-Plug-Tap-91-12416/204625861?N=5yc1vZc961
> 
> Going to be going through aluminum. I assume this is what I need? Not sure on the thread spacing part of it.
> 
> Any advice would be much appreciated. The plan is to have a fitting on both sides.


It it's thin enough aluminum you shouldn't need to tap anything. Just make the hole slightly larger and use the retention ring on the bottom side. That's what I did with mine and it works fine


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> I'm not super handy with tools but I'd like to use a few of these in my next build..
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6949/ex-tub-168/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Silver_BP-WTP-C04.html?tl=g30c101s460
> 
> I have a drill but can anyone explain to me exactly what I need to make a 3/8 threaded tap I guess? Just anything from lowes or Home Depot? Found this.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-3-8-16-Thread-Spacing-High-Speed-Steel-Plug-Tap-91-12416/204625861?N=5yc1vZc961
> 
> Going to be going through aluminum. I assume this is what I need? Not sure on the thread spacing part of it.
> 
> Any advice would be much appreciated. The plan is to have a fitting on both sides.


You will need to drill a 13/16" hole for the M20 thread to fit through for that Bitspower fill port / pass-thru fitting, just like it shows in the dimensional image on the FCPU site (and on Bitspower's product page).


^ Looking at that pic the M20 threads on the white part will need to drop down through the hole you cut and the yellow part is a nut that will tighten up on it to sandwich the case in between it, securing the fitting to the case and hiding the hole you drilled between the flange on the fitting and the nut.

I did notice that it looks like FCPU's page incorrectly refers to it as a G3/8 thread. Not sure why but that can't be correct (btw G1/4 threads are not 1/4" and G3/8 threads are not 3/8"). I'm going to contact FCPU to see about getting that corrected.

Male G1/4 threads are 13.16mm or 0.517 inch diameter
Male G3/8 threads are 16.66mm or 0.656 inch diameter
*Male M20 threads are 20mm or 0.787 inch diameter* so you will need to drill a hole slightly larger than that but smaller than the fitting's 25mm / 1" total width so that the hole is sandwiched between the flange and the nut. A 13/16ths drill bit is what you will need. A step drill bit (like this or this) works great for drilling through sheet metal like your alum case.

BTW: If you need a second opinion:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1230088/bitspower-pass-thru-fillport-diameter/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sidewinder_Computers*
> 
> If you mean the C04, 1" is too big. Use a 3/4" and it may need a very slight enlargement from 3/4", then it will drop right in.
> I've done lots of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use a step-bit, it gives you a burr-less finish and it drills through without much fuss unlike a hole saw. *The Bitspower passthrough is around 3/4", but you need a 13/16" hole to allow it to fit without damaging the outer threads.*
Click to expand...


----------



## jtom320

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You will need to drill a 13/16" hole for the M20 thread to fit through for that Bitspower fill port / pass-thru fitting, just like it shows in the dimensional image on the FCPU site (and on Bitspower's product page).
> 
> 
> ^ Looking at that pic the M20 threads on the white part will need to drop down through the hole you cut and the yellow part is a nut that will tighten up on it to sandwich the case in between it, securing the fitting to the case and hiding the hole you drilled between the flange on the fitting and the nut.
> 
> I did notice that it looks like FCPU's page incorrectly refers to it as a G3/8 thread. Not sure why but that can't be correct (btw G1/4 threads are not 1/4" and G3/8 threads are not 3/8"). I'm going to contact FCPU to see about getting that corrected.
> 
> Male G1/4 threads are 13.16mm or 0.517 inch diameter
> Male G3/8 threads are 16.66mm or 0.656 inch diameter
> *Male M20 threads are 20mm or 0.787 inch diameter* so you will need to drill a hole slightly larger than that but smaller than the fitting's 25mm / 1" total width so that the hole is sandwiched between the flange and the nut. A 13/16ths drill bit is what you will need. A step drill bit (like this or this) works great for drilling through sheet metal like your alum case.
> 
> BTW: If you need a second opinion:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1230088/bitspower-pass-thru-fillport-diameter/






Much much appreciated thank you!


----------



## ShadowBroker

Awasome thread! Here are some pictures of my system:








*Specifications:*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Components

*CPU:* Intel I7-4930K
*Motherboard:* Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
*Memory:* G.Skill TridentX 4x4GB 2400MHz CL10
*Video Card(s):* EVGA GTX780Ti Classified 2-Way SLI
*SSD:* Samsung 840 PRO 512 GB
*Power Supply:* Seasonic X-1250
*Case:* CaseLabs STH10

Cooling system

*Water Blocks*
*CPU:* EK Supremacy Clean Full Nickel
*GPU:* EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Acetal + Nickel x2 pcs +EK-FC780 GTX Classy Backplate - Black Rev.2.0 x2 pcs
*Motherboard:* EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE - Acetal + Nickel
*Aquaero 5 LT:* Aqua Computer waterblock for aquaero 5

*Fittings and tubing:*
EK 16/10 Black Nickel
Koolance QD3 16/10mm Quick Connects
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 16/10 White

*Cooling:*
*Fan Control:* Aqua Computer Aquaero 5 LT
*Fans:* Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 1450rpm x 17 pcs
*Pumps:* AquaComputer D5 with Aquabus x2 pcs
*Reservoir:* Koolance RP-452X2 Rev.2.0
*Radiators:* Phobya G-Changer 560 V2 FullCopper x3 pcs



More in the build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1500417/project-badboy-caselabs-sth10-phase-ii-final-pictures-rive-be-evga-gtx780ti-classified-sli-ek-waterblocks/0_50


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Holy cra...azy awesome rig you got there.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> (btw G1/4 threads are not 1/4" and G3/8 threads are not 3/8")


Interesting, I just read on wiki the "size number was originally based on the inner diameter (measured in inches) of a steel tube for which the thread was intended, but contemporary pipes tend to use thinner walls to save material, and thus have an inner diameter larger than this nominal size".


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> I'm not super handy with tools but I'd like to use a few of these in my next build..
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6949/ex-tub-168/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Silver_BP-WTP-C04.html?tl=g30c101s460
> 
> I have a drill but can anyone explain to me exactly what I need to make a 3/8 threaded tap I guess? Just anything from lowes or Home Depot? Found this.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-3-8-16-Thread-Spacing-High-Speed-Steel-Plug-Tap-91-12416/204625861?N=5yc1vZc961
> 
> Going to be going through aluminum. I assume this is what I need? Not sure on the thread spacing part of it.
> 
> Any advice would be much appreciated. The plan is to have a fitting on both sides.


I needed to use pass thrus on my chiller build, and since they needed to support the weight of QD's and the lines to the chillers, I wanted to be sure they had plenty of support.

I used two pieces of 1/8" aluminum flat stock from Home depot to sandwich the case, and a 3/4" hole saw. . . . . You need to dremel the holes just a bit more after the holesaw, but not much.

For a bit of overkill, I also drilled and tapped the inner piece and used 8 small (6-32) screws so the pass thrus themselves don't have to provide the holding force.

A few more minutes of polishing, and they look pretty sexxxy.

Darlene


----------



## Nichismo

Damn, that sure is clean and aesthetically pleasing, haha.

I just placed an order from PPCS earlier today for an external rad system, and perhaps another pump.



Im hoping the delrin on the AQ PCI pass throughis pretty solid, Koolance headquarters is about 20 minutes from my house and they have the same type of item for less than half the price, but I wasnt as fond of the design compared to this one. I plan on getting a Phobya Nova box. Im going to remove the UT45 from the cieling of my case that im using now, im pretty pumped to install the Airplex Mod, looks damn promising. Not to mention the stainless steel side panels look awesome with the rest of the build.

Im going to get a little mini cooler with a bunch of ice inside it, and im going to put the external rad inside it. lol


----------



## bundymania

New products from Alphacool


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Interesting, I just read on wiki the "size number was originally based on the inner diameter (measured in inches) of a steel tube for which the thread was intended, but contemporary pipes tend to use thinner walls to save material, and thus have an inner diameter larger than this nominal size".


Well that solves a mystery I've wondered about many a time now about where the heck they got G1/4 and G3/8 from. Thanks.

Now I wonder how it came about that they use BSP (British Standard Pipe) parallel threads if it was originally based on an imperial ID tube?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Interesting, I just read on wiki the "size number was originally based on the inner diameter (measured in inches) of a steel tube for which the thread was intended, but contemporary pipes tend to use thinner walls to save material, and thus have an inner diameter larger than this nominal size".
> 
> 
> 
> Well that solves a mystery I've wondered about many a time now about where the heck they got G1/4 and G3/8 from. Thanks.
> 
> Now I wonder how it came about that they use BSP (British Standard Pipe) parallel threads if it was originally based on an imperial ID tube?
Click to expand...

Because of the British Empire ruling over half of the world at some point, maybe? Long before ISO or TN existed


----------



## Gardnerphotos

If you haven't voted already I appreciate your support:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1506101/ocn-mod-of-the-month-august-2014-sponsored-class-voting-now-live/100_100#post_22797633


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Now I wonder how it came about that they use BSP (British Standard Pipe) parallel threads if it was originally based on an imperial ID tube?


Not sure how to interpret that ... are you asking why the British would use Imperial measurements? Wikipedia says _"Imperial units: used in the UK and some other countries"_









Or are you asking why not use an American standard for parallel pipes? There isn't a common one I think.

Even in the Netherlands, although we have used the metric system for a couple hundred years, if I go into an ironmongers and ask for brass pipe fittings with G1/4 thread, they have them. So I think it's just a global standard for water and gas plumbing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Not sure how to interpret that ... are you asking why the British would use Imperial measurements? Wikipedia says _"Imperial units: used in the UK and some other countries"_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or are you asking why not use an American standard for parallel pipes? There isn't a common one I think.
> 
> Even in the Netherlands, although we have used the metric system for a couple hundred years, if I go into an ironmongers and ask for brass pipe fittings with G1/4 thread, they have them. So I think it's just a global standard for water and gas plumbing.


Actually water and gas plumbing, and even air lines, in the US commonly use tapered NPT threads, not BSP with o-rings. Our threads on our pipes & fittings seal together as they tighten, commonly supplemented by teflon tape or 'pipe dope'. No o-ring is needed.

My only experience with G1/4 and G3/8 type fittings has been with pc water cooling. Trying to find a fitting or tap or die in that size is difficult here except through a pc water cooling supplier or a international industrial supply. I can order them though suppliers like Grainger or McMaster-Carr but they are not typically available locally at the hardware store like Lowes, Home Depot, or Tru Value. I was just wondering why Brits would be using pipe with an imperial I.D. or rather why they would use an imperial measurement of it to base the naming of their fitting sizes. It seems a bit odd to me to mix systems of measurement like that.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> why they would use an imperial measurement of it to base the naming of their fitting sizes. It seems a bit odd to me to mix systems of measurement like that.


It's not a mixing of measurements - the word Imperial refers to the British Empire. When Whitworth(?) invented BSPP, inches were the standard measurement. Britain only switched to metric in the last 40 years or so.

And I guess G1/4 in water cooling PCs became popular because that's what Laing uses. They are a Hungarian company, using a British gas pipe standard instead of the American tapered one. Hungary was part of Austria, so would have followed German pipe standards. Why the Germans adopted the British standard is a story for another day


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I has Light tent
I still has no photoskills.







And vote for me,not him.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's not a mixing of measurements - the word Imperial refers to the British Empire. When whatshisname invented BSPP, inches were the standard measurement. Britain only switched to metric in the last 40 years or so.


Well that explains it then. I was under the impression the entire world except the US started using metric back in the 1800s.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I has Light tent
> I still has no photoskills.


Those pictures might not be perfect, but so so much better than the other shots your case. Keep practicing!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well that explains it then. I was under the impression the entire world except the US started using metric back in the 1800s.


The Romans invented inches, because the feet of their statues were smaller than the feet of Greek statues. True story.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New products from Alphacool
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> [/quote
> 
> i'm interested in the 290X blocks.. how is the VRM cooling on those? that's the only thing that worries me.


----------



## royce5950

I usually use a milwaukie hole saw when cutting into cases I heard the mention of a step bit or something like that, it takes a lot of time and pressure to drill through galvanized steel with a hole saw, how does the step bit do with galvanized steel?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I has Light tent
> I still has no photoskills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And vote for me,not him.


I like this one

pics is light, 90% of light

I really like this one, i took 30 sec to adjust some thing, i hope its ok with you, if not i will remove it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I has Light tent
> I still has no photoskills.
> 
> 
> 
> Those pictures might not be perfect, but so so much better than the other shots your case. *Just use the auto function...*
Click to expand...

FTFY.




























Seriously tho...its doing my head in...im a power tool guy,not David bloody Bailey......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I has Light tent
> I still has no photoskills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And vote for me,not him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this one
> 
> pics is light, 90% of light
> 
> I really like this one, i took 30 sec to adjust some thing, i hope its ok with you, if not i will remove it
Click to expand...

Go ahead and do what you can Snef....any pointers gratefully received.

I need to remember to do lens correction...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I usually use a milwaukie hole saw when cutting into cases I heard the mention of a step bit or something like that, it takes a lot of time and pressure to drill through galvanized steel with a hole saw, how does the step bit do with galvanized steel?


A step bit is a lot easier to use than a hole saw bit cutting through sheet metal and it produces a lot cleaner burr-free hole. That said, I've not used one on 'galvanized' steel. Only one way to find out for sure.


----------



## snef

and check your white balance, seem a little bit on blue/cyan

witch Camera you used for these pics?


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I usually use a milwaukie hole saw when cutting into cases I heard the mention of a step bit or something like that, it takes a lot of time and pressure to drill through galvanized steel with a hole saw, how does the step bit do with galvanized steel?


I prefer a step bit. As long as you use a nice quality bit for the pilot hole, you have a much lower chance of skipping with a step bit then a hole saw.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FTFY.
> 
> I need to remember to do lens correction...


If you are using Lightroom you can just setup a preset that does that automatically upon import. Using presets can save a lot of time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> and check your white balance, seem a little bit on blue/cyan
> 
> witch Camera you used for these pics?


Canon 350d with stock lens.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FTFY.
> 
> I need to remember to do lens correction...
> 
> 
> 
> If you are using Lightroom you can just setup a preset that does that automatically upon import. Using presets can save a lot of time.
Click to expand...

Lightroom can process RAW?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Canon 350d with stock lens.
> Lightroom can process RAW?


thanks

yes Lightroom can process ram and its better if its raw


----------



## VSG

If you are using a 350D then unless you are on a really wide angle lens, lens profile corrections do little to help.


----------



## snef

I really like this one

you have a great eye for taking pics

I used Lightroom to give more life to this one
you can have a way better result with the raw, it work with JPG but limited

your pics are great, just need to use lightroom to fix and pop some little thing


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New products from Alphacool
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> [/quote
> 
> i'm interested in the 290X blocks.. how is the VRM cooling on those? that's the only thing that worries me.
> 
> 
> 
> You got mail with review link
Click to expand...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So I just DL'd Lightroom.....Wow....much better than 'chop for control


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So I just DL'd Lightroom.....Wow....much better than 'chop for control


Oh dear we just supplied the maniac builder with another tool to win them mod contests.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Canon 350d with stock lens.
> Lightroom can process RAW?


With a white background and dark subject, like your build, my process for Lightroom (5) is this:

1) Click auto exposure
2) Use the white-balance dropper auto tool and click on a white area of the back ground
3) Lower shadow (after the auto exposure dark subjects will be blown out) until the dark subject has the perfect exposure

This is with a RAW image. 90% of the time the picture will come out great. There's other minor tweaks after that but that's for once you get used to the basics. You'll then be able to play with sharpening and luminance, as well as really fine tuning the exposure one you get used to the sliders. And of course this is all assuming that the photos are good in the first place - which yours are.

JW


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So I just DL'd Lightroom.....Wow....much better than 'chop for control
> 
> 
> 
> Oh dear we just supplied the maniac builder with another tool to win them mod contests.
Click to expand...

I didnt win the OCN one this time.....but I am in Custom PC next month.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Canon 350d with stock lens.
> Lightroom can process RAW?
> 
> 
> 
> With a white background and dark subject, like your build, my process for Lightroom (5) is this:
> 
> 1) Click auto exposure
> 2) Use the white-balance dropper auto tool and click on a white area of the back ground
> 3) Lower shadow (after the auto exposure dark subjects will be blown out) until the dark subject has the perfect exposure
> 
> This is with a RAW image. 90% of the time the picture will come out great. There's other minor tweaks after that but that's for once you get used to the basics. You'll then be able to play with sharpening and luminance, as well as really fine tuning the exposure one you get used to the sliders.
> 
> JW
Click to expand...

Thanks for that,I have noticed that the more I leave the camera alone to do its own thing the better.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seriously tho...its doing my head in...im a power tool guy,not David bloody Bailey......


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks for that,I have noticed that the more I leave the camera alone to do its own thing the better.


I always use the aperture priority setting in the camera to control the look, otherwise auto ISO, shutter etc..


----------



## devilhead

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7yUaDpxpJ4&feature=youtu.be
hi, first time use laing ddc-1, after 2xD5 is sounds like high voltage electric station.... thats normal?


----------



## VSG

Maybe the top? My 2x DDC is not that loud!

NVM just saw the DDC-1 part.


----------



## lowfat

DDC-1Ts are terribly loud compared to pretty much every other pump.

EDIT: You also need to have DDCs decoupled. From the video it doesn't look like it is.


----------



## ledzepp3

Speaking of pumps, has anyone ever had any abnormally loud D5's? My last one was really screwy and wouldn't spin properly, but my new one jumps dramatically in volume once it's past 3 out of the 5 available speed settings.

Broke high school kid here







what's some good photo editing software that's cheap _free_?









-Zepp


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Hey! I'm getting my custom watercooling parts in a few days, and I was wondering a few things (it's virgin territory for me). I'll have a 240 radiator and a 120 radiator. Loop will be:

Res/pump -> 240 radiator -> CPU -> 120 radiator -> GPU - > res/pump.

Now my first question is, should I mount the fans as exhaust or intake? I'll be using the fans in a push setup.

My second question is, could I "clean" the rads by blowing into them with compressed air before hooking everything up? I have a Datavac, so nothing other that air would get in there. I presume there could be a risk of damaging the insides of the radiators.


----------



## AlwaysDIY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> My second question is, could I "clean" the rads by blowing into them with compressed air before hooking everything up? I have a Datavac, so nothing other that air would get in there. I presume there could be a risk of damaging the insides of the radiators.


I don't think compressed air will damage the rad unless u plug the rest of the holes. I, and a lot of wc guides I've seen online, flush the rads with distilled and vinegar. Fill, shake, drain, and flush it with just distilled.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlwaysDIY*
> 
> I don't think compressed air will damage the rad unless u plug the rest of the holes. I, and a lot of wc guides I've seen online, flush the rads with distilled and vinegar. Fill, shake, drain, and flush it with just distilled.


Well, I would try and flush it out, but since this is my first time, I really need to be careful. It's also a lot of money after all. I just had the idea with the compressed air since it wouldn't leave any residue inside the radiators.


----------



## AlwaysDIY

I would suggest you try with the compressed air first. Shouldn't damage the rads. See how much/what comes out. I've seen rads that were full of flux, paint chips, and other small particulate debris when flushed - and I've also seen rads that were squeaky clean out of the box. If you feel the rads are clean after using air, then assemble. However, if more debris than what you expected comes out, consider flushing it with water/vinegar solution.

The rad welds are stronger than you think. I too was cautious when flushing and and especially when checking for leaks using compressed air on my alpha cool rads - but no welds broke. However, as you said, parts are expensive so being cautious never hurts.


----------



## morencyam

You definitely want to flush the radiators with at least hot water. There is almost always residue from manufacturing left over. If you do use vinegar, only use a 10:1 mixture of water to vinegar. Whether you use vinegar or not, make sure you do a final rinse or two with distilled water.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You definitely want to flush the radiators with at least hot water. There is almost always residue from manufacturing left over. If you do use vinegar, only use a 10:1 mixture of water to vinegar. Whether you use vinegar or not, make sure you do a final rinse or two with distilled water.


Yeah, the distilled water thing won't happen. Even if I could get a hold of it in town, it would be really expensive.


----------



## mus1mus

You can buy them from any supermarket. Distilled Drinking Water is nothing to uncommon. If not, try Pharmacies, Drug Stores or anything that sells Medicines.


----------



## morencyam

Demineralized or Deionized water works as well. Auto Parts stores might have it too. It's used a lot in deep cycle batteries


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Demineralized or Deionized water works as well. Auto Parts stores might have it too. It's used a lot in deep cycle batteries


The guys will even recommend you the good one.

I'm using this for example:



Doctors, Battery guys (whatever you call them







), recommended. Tastes good as well.

Just make sure you don't drink the flushed one.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I think I lucked out... My local aquarium shop that's all of three blocks away... Sells RO/DI water for $1/gallon! ...Cheaper than stores at $2 per gallon ^_^


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ugh that annoyance of when you go to finally make an order and there is one thing on backorder! PPC needs to hurry up and get there EK-RAM Monarch Modules back in stock! Briefly looked at FCPU but they don't carry one of the items i want and seem to be more expensive anyways, PPC Cart comes to $181.89 vs FCPU $193.97 that would really add up on bigger orders why would people shop there over PPC!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You definitely want to flush the radiators with at least hot water. There is almost always residue from manufacturing left over. If you do use vinegar, only use a 10:1 mixture of water to vinegar. Whether you use vinegar or not, make sure you do a final rinse or two with distilled water.


I'd say that Lemon juice is preferred over Vinegar. Also, if you use an acid flush, you'd will want to do a bicarb solution (base) flush or else you can have pH problems.

Or you can buy mayhem's blitz kit which is a 2 step kit, the first being a phosphoric acid based flush for rads and the second being a pH neutralizer and surfacant runs through the whole system that will pick up particles and make them easier to get out of the system.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Yeah, the distilled water thing won't happen. Even if I could get a hold of it in town, it would be really expensive.


I know in some places buying something like mayhem's ultra pure can be easier/cheaper than finding/buying distilled water, maybe something to look into.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Buehlar

Beautiful photos James.


----------



## Fr3na

Very nice case


----------



## Fr3na




----------



## Fr3na




----------



## Fr3na

My best gaming build


----------



## nepToon

Circles, be gone ! (Ignore the backplate







)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Hey! I'm getting my custom watercooling parts in a few days, and I was wondering a few things (it's virgin territory for me). I'll have a 240 radiator and a 120 radiator. Loop will be:
> 
> Res/pump -> 240 radiator -> CPU -> 120 radiator -> GPU - > res/pump.
> 
> Now my first question is, should I mount the fans as exhaust or intake? I'll be using the fans in a push setup.


I see you have a radiator between CPU and GPU. Your first question should be: does loop order matter?







Answer: no it doesn't. You don't need a radiator between each block, water is moving too fast. Just do the shortest / easiest connections between parts. Looks better too









And about fans. Intake generally gives best temps. But you should test both orientations it yourself, because it depends on the overall airflow set up in your case.


----------



## Nichismo

^^ agreed, I used to think that way.

Now I have every block in succession.

(got my cables organized finally, still needs work)




I was also wondering if someone could help me with a question i have.... Im currently using EK blood red coolant, but I want a different red now, thats perhaps brighter and a solid color. Is there something I can safely add, so I dont have to completely drain and clean my loop?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Almost ready to leak test


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> ^^ agreed, I used to think that way.
> 
> Now I have every block in succession.
> 
> (got my cables organized finally, still needs work)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was also wondering if someone could help me with a question i have.... Im currently using EK blood red coolant, but I want a different red now, thats perhaps brighter and a solid color. Is there something I can safely add, so I dont have to completely drain and clean my loop?


Not really. If you want lighter, you'd have to dilute your current fluid and then add some dye to correct the color, so you'd be at least partially draining in that case.

If by solid color you mean opaque like pastel line of fluid, then definitely no.

Best recommendation is to drain, flush, refill with the color/fluid you want


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You can buy them from any supermarket. Distilled Drinking Water is nothing to uncommon. If not, try Pharmacies, Drug Stores or anything that sells Medicines.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Demineralized or Deionized water works as well. Auto Parts stores might have it too. It's used a lot in deep cycle batteries


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The guys will even recommend you the good one.
> 
> Doctors, Battery guys (whatever you call them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), recommended. Tastes good as well.
> 
> Just make sure you don't drink the flushed one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd say that Lemon juice is preferred over Vinegar. Also, if you use an acid flush, you'd will want to do a bicarb solution (base) flush or else you can have pH problems.
> 
> Or you can buy mayhem's blitz kit which is a 2 step kit, the first being a phosphoric acid based flush for rads and the second being a pH neutralizer and surfacant runs through the whole system that will pick up particles and make them easier to get out of the system.
> I know in some places buying something like mayhem's ultra pure can be easier/cheaper than finding/buying distilled water, maybe something to look into.


I didn't want to come off as a prick or anything. It was very late here, and I had to go to bed. I already effed up my internal clock as it is. I might be able to get a hold of some demineralized water, but distilled water isn't to get anywhere here. The demineralized water is probably going to be expensive, and I'm not buying a litre of Mayhems and paying shipping costs just to do that. Then I'd rather find some other solution.

I think I'll try blowing air inside the rads first, and see how that works out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I see you have a radiator between CPU and GPU. Your first question should be: does loop order matter?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Answer: no it doesn't. You don't need a radiator between each block, water is moving too fast. Just do the shortest / easiest connections between parts. Looks better too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And about fans. Intake generally gives best temps. But you should test both orientations it yourself, because it depends on the overall airflow set up in your case.


Well, I put my loop up like this because I like it that way. If it doesn't make a difference then it's all the same to me anyway


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Not really. If you want lighter, you'd have to dilute your current fluid and then add some dye to correct the color, so you'd be at least partially draining in that case.
> 
> If by solid color you mean opaque like pastel line of fluid, then definitely no.
> 
> Best recommendation is to drain, flush, refill with the color/fluid you want


lighter, as in a more Red rather than burgundy. Like in those pictures, the coolant in the reservoir is very very dark.

But ya, I figured it probably isnt a good idea. So im just going to forget about that.... lol

thanks


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I really like this one
> 
> you have a great eye for taking pics
> 
> I used Lightroom to give more life to this one
> you can have a way better result with the raw, it work with JPG but limited
> 
> your pics are great, just need to use lightroom to fix and pop some little thing


Wow that did wonders! I'll be checking this out myself. Thanks Snef


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> I didn't want to come off as a prick or anything. It was very late here, and I had to go to bed. I already effed up my internal clock as it is. I might be able to get a hold of some demineralized water, but distilled water isn't to get anywhere here. The demineralized water is probably going to be expensive, and I'm not buying a litre of Mayhems and paying shipping costs just to do that. Then I'd rather find some other solution.
> 
> I think I'll try blowing air inside the rads first, and see how that works out.
> Well, I put my loop up like this because I like it that way. If it doesn't make a difference then it's all the same to me anyway


You can try I guess, making your own distilled or deionized water.

Seach up "make distilled water" in Youtube. The idea is just to collect those Water Vapors that are as pure as water gets..


----------



## Maticb

Hey guys another noob question, I had my loop in my old case for about 1 month before i got my new case and it was running distilled water only. I have all copper blocks and radiators except the GPU is nickel plated. What I noticed when I took my loop apart is some black sorta tint on the G1/4 plug on the reservoir.

Here is a picture, i tried holding it close to the light so it would be clear:



Is that algae or something else? I didn't try cleaning it or anything, except "rubbing" it with my finger a little and it still looked like this.

I know I should use anti-algae, but honestly I don't even know where to find any.

Should I be fine with distilled water only if I replacethe water in my loop every 3-6 months?


----------



## morencyam

Looks like it might be corrosion. I would open up the GPU block and make sure the nickle isn't corroding. When mixing copper and nickle, you should really use a fluid with some kind of corrosion inhibitor, like Mayhem X1 or Pastel


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Beautiful photos James, what lighting are you using? I assume you are using a light tent to get such even lighting?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Beautiful photos James, what lighting are you using? I assume you are using a light tent to get such even lighting?


Thanks, no light tent, I don't like them. I use white seamless paper and light boxes:


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Thanks, no light tent, I don't like them. I use white seamless paper and light boxes:


Hmm how much would a setup like that cost?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Hmm how much would a setup like that cost?


Only $300-$400. I also use a nice flash on my camera too, depending on the shot.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Beautiful photos James, what lighting are you using? I assume you are using a light tent to get such even lighting?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, no light tent, I don't like them. I use white seamless paper and light boxes:
Click to expand...

I looked at this setup myself but I just dont have the space.....my tools have maxed my space allowance according to her indoors.

Still,now I have an idea on future shooting,I have to do 15 shots for Custom PC and I want them looking presentable at least.

And a gratuitous Magoo shot will be included.

Terms and Conditions: Wash @ 40,Bacon is great,Magoo is now His Imperial Highness Kim Jong Un or simply Majesty,Do not dry clean,Tumble Dry Low,KINGIGUNAFORADMIN.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I looked at this setup myself but I just dont have the space.....my tools have maxed my space allowance according to her indoors.
> 
> Still,now I have an idea on future shooting,I have to do 15 shots for Custom PC and I want them looking presentable at least.
> 
> And a gratuitous Magoo shot will be included.
> 
> Terms and Conditions: Wash @ 40,Bacon is great,Magoo is now His Imperial Highness Kim Jong Un or simply Majesty,Do not dry clean,Tumble Dry Low,KINGIGUNAFORADMIN.


Yeah I get yelled at frequently for my occupation of the dining room in our house for building computers at shooting photos









Feel free to reach out if you need any pointers in Lightroom


----------



## VSG

This has been on my downstairs dining table for over a month now:



Pretty good for the price I paid.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I made my own for $50


----------



## snef

on Ebay you can find one around 15 or 20 shipping include for a 30" x 30" with 4 different color for background, and buy 2 table light for 18$ and 2 light bulb 5500k for 10$ at Walmart

all of these for less than 50$ its what I use


----------



## tatmMRKIV

amazon.com panda film .... 10-30$ for just a bunch of it.. It refracts but doesn't reflect or something like that

no comment on lighting


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ugh that annoyance of when you go to finally make an order and there is one thing on backorder! PPC needs to hurry up and get there EK-RAM Monarch Modules back in stock! Briefly looked at FCPU but they don't carry one of the items i want and seem to be more expensive anyways, PPC Cart comes to $181.89 vs FCPU $193.97 that would really add up on bigger orders why would people shop there over PPC!


Shipping is typically cheaper with FCPU and the difference is big enough where prices become about the same. I use USPS priority mail. I don't know how shipping prices are standard shipping tho. I buy from whomever had all the parts I need. Like you, PPCS had 1 item I needed on back ordered so my last order was with FCPU.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You can try I guess, making your own distilled or deionized water.
> 
> Seach up "make distilled water" in Youtube. The idea is just to collect those Water Vapors that are as pure as water gets..


I'm not gonna do that. Thanks for the suggestion, though







Instead I will just boil some water, wait for it to cool, and then pour it in the rads, close them up, shake, and drain. Maybe blow in them with compressed air to get as much of the leftovers out.


----------



## Alex132

My D5 pump is making a very strange noise when turned on. Barely any water is moving and it is making a sound as if water is splashing at like 4 times a second in to the pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> My D5 pump is making a very strange noise when turned on. Barely any water is moving and it is making a sound as if water is splashing at like 4 times a second in to the pump.


It sounds like you might have an air-lock in the pump. Try pinching the tubing that goes into the inlet from the reservoir to see if that resolves your issue. It's likely just pulled some air into it. Also try changing the speed of the pump to see if that helps to get the air to pass through it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> My D5 pump is making a very strange noise when turned on. Barely any water is moving and it is making a sound as if water is splashing at like 4 times a second in to the pump.


I've experienced that when something isn't tightened down all the way. I would check the d5 compression rung is tightened down and also double check all your fittings


----------



## LiquidHaus

These acrylic hard lines are tough lol


----------



## Alex132

The compression fittings are tight - I DO NOT wanna re-do them anyhow, took me like 2 hours thanks to Primochills tubing being ever so slightly larger than 3/4" OD









I also rotated the rig around, shook it, and pinched the tubing while running. Noise persisted.

I am uploading a video of the noise soon (slow net







)


----------



## Alex132

Could it be because it is the PWM version and i haven't plugged in the pwm header into anything (it doesn't reach.. getting extensions soon)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Could it be because it is the PWM version and i haven't plugged in the pwm header into anything (it doesn't reach.. getting extensions soon)


It's hard to tell in the video, but are you sure that you have the inlet and outlet to the pump configured correctly? The inlet is the line that comes from the reservoir and goes into the pump. It sounds to me that you either have an air trap in the tubing feeding the pump, or you have the inlet and outlet to the pump not configured correctly. Can you also tell me how you went about priming this pump?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Could it be because it is the PWM version and i haven't plugged in the pwm header into anything (it doesn't reach.. getting extensions soon)
> 
> 
> 
> It's hard to tell in the video, but are you sure that you have the inlet and outlet to the pump configured correctly? The inlet is the line that comes from the reservoir and goes into the pump. It sounds to me that you either have an air trap in the tubing feeding the pump, or you have the inlet and outlet to the pump not configured correctly. Can you also tell me how you went about priming this pump?
Click to expand...

I just re-read the EK manual... I feel like such a dork. I had the inlet/outlet reversed on the pump.

i hope no damage occurred to it.

Thank you so much for your help <3 !


----------



## Jeronbernal

build log's going up


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## VSG

Sigh.. Why do they need to put the logo and the name on everything they can? Great looking blocks otherwise.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sigh.. Why do they need to put the logo and the name on everything they can? Great looking blocks otherwise.


Yeah - those will be eliminated


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah - those will be eliminated












I figured I should put this in here too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like EK is selling 180/360/540 x 35 mm rads starting tomorrow:
> 
> 
> 
> Funny thing is I got a 540mm rad mount for my TX10 from Stren and I was considering getting one for the giggles from Alphacool.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys im just in the planning stage of some of the aspects of my upcoming build and right now im trying to decide on tube size, in the the past ive always went with the big fat tubing (1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD) but those were always big cases and such. Im looking to do a mITX build and i figured smaller tubing would look better? Im looking to maybe use (5/8in. OD) do you guys think that would look better vs (3/4in. OD) ??

When using (5/8in. OD) tubing what is the more common ID among builders? 3/8in. or 7/16in. ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys im just in the planning stage of some of the aspects of my upcoming build and right now im trying to decide on tube size, in the the past ive always went with the big fat tubing (1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD) but those were always big cases and such. Im looking to do a mITX build and i figured smaller tubing would look better? Im looking to maybe use (5/8in. OD) do you guys think that would look better vs (3/4in. OD) ??
> 
> When using (5/8in. OD) tubing what is the more common ID among builders? 3/8in. or 7/16in. ?


If you're using barbs, the 7/16 fits nice and tight over 1/2 barbs, the down side is that with the thinner wall, it kinks a bit easier.

If you're using compressions, you'll typically find a better selection in 3/8 X 5/8, plus having a little more kink resistance while still getting the nice tighter bends of the smaller size.

Darlene


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're using barbs, the 7/16 fits nice and tight over 1/2 barbs, the down side is that with the thinner wall, it kinks a bit easier.
> 
> If you're using compressions, you'll typically find a better selection in 3/8 X 5/8, plus having a little more kink resistance while still getting the nice tighter bends of the smaller size.
> 
> Darlene


Ok perfect, I will be using compression fittings, feel safer and look much better, so if i finally decide to stick with flex tubing over rigid i will go 3/8 x 5/8! Thanks for the Help


----------



## Qu1ckset

Posted this in the mayhems club, still waiting on an answer maybe you guys can give me a quick answer ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Im looking to buy some premix pastel from performancepcs which comes in 1 liter bottles, how much would i need plus extra? would 2 litres be plenty for mITX system, this is all guesstimates lets say one gpu, cpu block, x2 ram block, 280 and 240 rad, lets say i want a completely full muilti 250 rez, and pump, will 2 liters be more then enough or should i get 3 liters?


----------



## VSG

2 liters should be plenty. I am going to guess 1 may be enough too but definitely better to have more than less- especially to take care of any annoying leaks or loss during maintenance.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 2 liters should be plenty. I am going to guess 1 may be enough too but definitely better to have more than less- especially to take care of any annoying leaks or loss during maintenance.


Ya thats what i thought, and i love having extra or to much, rather then running into not having enough and having to wait a week for shipping! lol


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're using barbs, the 7/16 fits nice and tight over 1/2 barbs, the down side is that with the thinner wall, it kinks a bit easier.
> 
> *If you're using compressions, you'll typically find a better selection in 3/8 X 5/8,* plus having a little more kink resistance while still getting the nice tighter bends of the smaller size.
> 
> Darlene


I'm using 7/16" x 5/8" and can vouch for this. There is more of a selection now, but a few years ago when I was buying all my fittings, my only real option for compression fittings was Bitspower


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah - those will be eliminated


Would like to see that









Those logos are the main thing that stops me from putting Ram blocks in my cases (and the EK ones are just too big for SFF). Will you be cutting vinyl to cover the etched top logo?


----------



## cyphon

Got the loop in the front of the case done on my WIP, The Madhouse (Chicago Blackhawks themed). Just need to do some more lighting, complete the loop in the back, add in the custom XFire cover and flex bay cover, and add water. (going to be pastel white)




Build Log


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Would like to see that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those logos are the main thing that stops me from putting Ram blocks in my cases (and the EK ones are just too big for SFF). Will you be cutting vinyl to cover the etched top logo?


I sanded and painted them last night, then I'll do a new logo


----------



## iBored

I'm all wet now


----------



## szeged

ordered a EK pump / Clean CSQ plexi pump top and some fittings from PPCs on thursday with one day shipping to get it ready for x99 system testing...PPCs just now created a shipping label for it late last night....ZzZzZ


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Shipping is typically cheaper with FCPU and the difference is big enough where prices become about the same. I use USPS priority mail. I don't know how shipping prices are standard shipping tho. I buy from whomever had all the parts I need. Like you, PPCS had 1 item I needed on back ordered so my last order was with FCPU.


Price of shipping for either vendor is going to depend on your location. PPC will overnight pretty much anything I order for $9, until the package exceeds 25 LBs... The same thing from FCPU would cost $60-$80, so it all depends on your location.

It's cheaper for me to get the"One day FedEx guaranteed shipping" than any other option 99% of the time.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Price of shipping for either vendor is going to depend on your location. PPC will overnight pretty much anything I order for $9, until the package exceeds 25 LBs... The same thing from FCPU would cost $60-$80, so it all depends on your location.
> 
> It's cheaper for me to get the"One day FedEx guaranteed shipping" than any other option 99% of the time.


i cant use Fedex/Purolator/UPS or i get nailed every single time with massive duty, i go with USPS and i never ever get charged duty!


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These acrylic hard lines are tough lol


beautiful stuff, beast of a system. I agree, especially mutliple bends are quite the challenge.
seems like we had the same idea with flowmeter positioning, cheers mate.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Got the loop in the front of the case done on my WIP, The Madhouse (Chicago Blackhawks themed). Just need to do some more lighting, complete the loop in the back, add in the custom XFire cover and flex bay cover, and add water. (going to be pastel white)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


Really really nice!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> i cant use Fedex/Purolator/UPS or i get nailed every single time with massive duty, i go with USPS and i never ever get charged duty!


I've only ever been hit with a $10 fee plus GST from FedEx shipments. We won't comment about what I've seen with UPS though - they're highway robbery.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I really like this one
> 
> you have a great eye for taking pics
> 
> I used Lightroom to give more life to this one
> you can have a way better result with the raw, it work with JPG but limited
> 
> your pics are great, just need to use lightroom to fix and pop some little thing


I thought I could do it a little better











Just remember to light up the bottom also, If u want to be better at processing after shooting. I did my best, hope u like it









Few tips:

TRIPOD and 2sec shutter, no more shaked photos.
Get to Aperture mode, on your Canon it's called Av, set the aperture to f/10 to make enough depth of field for your *BIG* computer







.
ISO 100-200.

And don't forget to have fun


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Reminds me...I must take the windows out and wipe off that polish.....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> i cant use Fedex/Purolator/UPS or i get nailed every single time with massive duty, i go with USPS and i never ever get charged duty!


Iv'e noticed this as well... Had some $400 flight sim pedals (MFG Crosswinds) delivered. They cam straight out of Croatia, no duty using USPS.


----------



## Puck

Where are you guys getting your ATX cable wire clamps? I found 3 and 4 wire ones for PCIE 6 and 8 pin but not ATX ones...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Light temp looks off and looks a tad over exposed. Did you use fill light in lr or did you adjust tint/temp/exposure?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I could do it a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just remember to light up the bottom also, If u want to be better at processing after shooting. I did my best, hope u like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few tips:
> 
> TRIPOD and 2sec shutter, no more shaked photos.
> Get to Aperture mode, on your Canon it's called Av, set the aperture to f/10 to make enough depth of field for your *BIG* computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> ISO 100-200.
> 
> And don't forget to have fun


Glad to see i'm not the only person that has issues cutting that damn sound proofing mat... I even sharpened the blade on my construction paper cutting table.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## timerwin63

The only thing keeping me from buying Bitspower fittings is the obnoxious logo on everything. Can't really argue the quality, but the logo is a real turn off when you're going for a clean look.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> The only thing keeping me from buying Bitspower fittings is the obnoxious logo on everything. Can't really argue the quality, but the logo is a real turn off when you're going for a clean look.


Who's fitting do you prefer?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Who's fitting do you prefer?


I'm using Koolance black compression fittings now, as the name is a dark gray that blends smoothly. The only other ones I've seen without a huge brand would be the Monsoon fittings, which I also considered.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I'm using Koolance black compression fittings now, as the name is a dark gray that blends smoothly. The only other ones I've seen without a huge brand would be the Monsoon fittings, which I also considered.


Well on the Bitspower compression fittings the logo's aren't that bad but on the angled fittings its pretty big, but you could solve that by maybe mixing the compression fittings with EK's PSC angled fittings ?
Koolance looks ok, ive personally never owned one of there products yet, but i absolutely hate the look of monsoon fittings and think there are extremely ugly!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Well on the Bitspower compression fittings the logo's aren't that bad but on the angled fittings its pretty big, but you could solve that by maybe mixing the compression fittings with EK's PSC angled fittings ?
> Koolance looks ok, ive personally never owned one of there products yet, but i absolutely hate the look of monsoon fittings and think there are extremely ugly!


I feel the same about the Monsoon fittings. The only thing they actually have going for them is the tool. And I hadn't thought about mixing the EK and Bitspower fittings. I'll have to try that in my next loop.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I feel the same about the Monsoon fittings. The only thing they actually have going for them is the tool. And I hadn't thought about mixing the EK and Bitspower fittings. I'll have to try that in my next loop.


What about the monsoon chainguns?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Where are you guys getting your ATX cable wire clamps? I found 3 and 4 wire ones for PCIE 6 and 8 pin but not ATX ones...


Are you talking about the Lutro0 cable combs? Mod Bunker just started carrying them while lutro0's shop is temporarily closed while moving


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Are you talking about the Lutro0 cable combs? Mod Bunker just started carrying them while lutro0's shop is temporarily closed while moving


FCPU carries em too, but can be hard to catch em with stock as they sell fast


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> What about the monsoon chainguns?


I don't mind the Chainguns as much, but it'd be hard to fit then into most of my builds.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> beautiful stuff, beast of a system. I agree, especially mutliple bends are quite the challenge.
> seems like we had the same idea with flowmeter positioning, cheers mate.


Nice man! It actually really sucks for me right now, since I went acrylic, I was able to fill my rig up with pure ice dragon coolant. No more diluted ice dragon. Well now, my flow meter won't read a damn thing. I removed it from the rig, put distilled water through it with another pump I had laying around, and it worked perfect. I put it back in the rig, and back to 0.0. I'm losing my mind cause I can't figure it out. My loop is exactly the same it was before. Any ideas?


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Light temp looks off and looks a tad over exposed. Did you use fill light in lr or did you adjust tint/temp/exposure?


It is off, I used brush, exposure + 0,50.

Lightroom yes.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Glad to see i'm not the only person that has issues cutting that damn sound proofing mat... I even sharpened the blade on my construction paper cutting table.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Joke? It was just a quick try, I know it's not perfect at the bottom.

I just wanted to show how to get a pure white background.


----------



## timerwin63

@B NEGATIVE Where'd you get your GPU block? That thing is beautiful... Clean, window to the channels, costs the whole card. Just beautiful.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE Where'd you get your GPU block? That thing is beautiful... Clean, window to the channels, costs the whole card. Just beautiful.


Its an Aquacomputer block with a handmade cover. Took about an hour of fretsawing and filing.

In other news,I found out why my pics have been coming out like crap for focus...the stock Canon 18-55 is pin sharp between f8-f11....which is where it was until i started fiddling....


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its an Aquacomputer block with a handmade cover. Took about an hour of fretsawing and filing.
> 
> In other news,I found out why my pics have been coming out like crap for focus...the stock Canon 18-55 is pin sharp between f8-f11....which is where it was until i started fiddling....


Well in that case, excellent job. Really is beautiful. And nice catch on the camera. Should be cool to see some new pics.


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Nice man! It actually really sucks for me right now, since I went acrylic, I was able to fill my rig up with pure ice dragon coolant. No more diluted ice dragon. Well now, my flow meter won't read a damn thing. I removed it from the rig, put distilled water through it with another pump I had laying around, and it worked perfect. I put it back in the rig, and back to 0.0. I'm losing my mind cause I can't figure it out. My loop is exactly the same it was before. Any ideas?


That's weird. Mine works excellent there. I don't think the coolant is responsible. My guess is that the propeller gets stuck with longer threaded fittings.
I was quite worried when installing because the propeller is very close to the end of the thread and the thread itself isn't very long.

If you have some left over acrylic and fittings i would install the hard line fitting before the flowmeter just like in your build and see if it works.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> The only thing keeping me from buying Bitspower fittings is the obnoxious logo on everything. Can't really argue the quality, but the logo is a real turn off when you're going for a clean look.


You might consider Barrow fittings.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493830/barrow-fittings/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1509371/bitspower-alternative-fittings/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im such a legend...I finally get to grips my camera,just taking pics for Custom PC......and I boot my light stand over smashing one of the bulbs....Classic B NEG right there.

After some f stop adjustments and a change of AI AF,the photo's are getting better....no WC but there are enough photo types here to make it worth doing.







Using the background tone as a basis was probably the best thing to do to any photo,thanks for that James.


----------



## Alex132

Spoiler: Took some pics













Now just need to wait for GM210 to drop


----------



## GringoKillah1

Little teaser










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://flic.kr/p/oPVdJU


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Are you talking about the Lutro0 cable combs? Mod Bunker just started carrying them while lutro0's shop is temporarily closed while moving


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> FCPU carries em too, but can be hard to catch em with stock as they sell fast


Thanks guys!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Joke? It was just a quick try, I know it's not perfect at the bottom.
> 
> I just wanted to show how to get a pure white background.


What? I'm talking about the dead mat Bneg used around the window, on the front door. The stuff is a major PITA to cut without leaving fuzzy edges.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Joke? It was just a quick try, I know it's not perfect at the bottom.
> 
> I just wanted to show how to get a pure white background.
> 
> 
> 
> What? I'm talking about the dead mat Bneg used around the window, on the front door. The stuff is a major PITA to cut without leaving fuzzy edges.
Click to expand...

Not with an exacto knife and a steel edge they aint.......


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not with an exacto knife and a steel edge they aint.......


I see the same fuzzies on your picture, that I ended up with on my end, using a super sharp table cutter... My OCD forced me to lick the fuzz with flame to make them go away. Even though I only sound proofed the back panel, which no one will ever see.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Little teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/oPVdJU


i usually hate those angled EK fittings but they look really good in that pic, Awesome teaser!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Little teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/oPVdJU


Absolutely gorgeous! I really love the angled fittings too! Build log by chance?


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> i usually hate those angled EK fittings but they look really good in that pic, Awesome teaser!


Thanks







Tomorrow will be all photos








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Absolutely gorgeous! I really love the angled fittings too! Build log by chance?


Nope, i like read and watch buildlogs... But do not have the patience to do them by myself








but, I have a whole bunch of pictures to the smallest details








And thanks you


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You might consider Barrow fittings.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493830/barrow-fittings/
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1509371/bitspower-alternative-fittings/


Just went reading through these threads. If only if known about these 2 months ago...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> That's weird. Mine works excellent there. I don't think the coolant is responsible. My guess is that the propeller gets stuck with longer threaded fittings.
> I was quite worried when installing because the propeller is very close to the end of the thread and the thread itself isn't very long.
> 
> If you have some left over acrylic and fittings i would install the hard line fitting before the flowmeter just like in your build and see if it works.


Alright so you did bring up something I hadn't thought about and that was the long threads. I disassembled the loop and checked the threads though and they're fine. I can literally blow through the meter and it spins the impeller and it detects a "flow" just fine. I hooked it back up and while I was filling my loop, it was detecting a flow. But as soon as the coolant reached back to the reservoir, the flow meter went right back to 0.0. It's like there's not enough flow to spin the impeller once it's filled. With two D5s, that boggles my mind. @B NEGATIVE I'm really hoping you can chime in here, because I'm having no luck figuring this out. It's a koolance flow meter not reading any flow while the loop is filled. There's a ton of pressure in the loop I might add. Both D5s are at the "5" setting as well. The one D5 and two mcp350s I had before was able to do 1.9lpm. I was expecting the second D5 to do even better replacing the two mcp350s.

I really would appreciate some help here.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Just went reading through these threads. If only if known about these 2 months ago...


It's just a PITA to source all Barrow fittings, when you want some of the less common shapes... They are definitely a great way to save money though. also, as popularity has grown, their prices have gone up.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *808MP5*
> 
> XSPC, Swiftech, HWLab, AquaComputer, Koolance, BitsPower, Tygon, Enzotech, EK, etc...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Pics Here
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/808mp5/sets/72157625591431114/


Nice flux capacitor! 1.21 Jigawatts compatible


----------



## maxforces

Work in progress
http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/1-18.jpg.html

90% completed


----------



## failwheeldrive

LD club







looks great


----------



## lowfat

Once upon a time this was a CSQ DDC top.


----------



## VSG

I can only imagine how long that took to scrub off the circles.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I can only imagine how long that took to scrub off the circles.


8 sheets of 120g. Seriously under estimated how deep they were.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 8 sheets of 120g. Seriously under estimated how deep they were.


So 3 hours give or take then? Definitely worth it though


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Little teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/oPVdJU











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Once upon a time this was a CSQ DDC top.


eventually it will be sanded and polished so much there will be no top left!







I kid, looks good as always


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So 3 hours give or take then? Definitely worth it though


Probably 4-5 hours of sanding + polishing. About 30 minutes of that on the polishing.


----------



## skupples

It's official. Lowfat needs help.

I kid I kid... Looks like you are almost out of threading though...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Probably 4-5 hours of sanding + polishing. About 30 minutes of that on the polishing.


lol I was going to type in 4 hours but figured that can't be the case. Clearly I underestimated those circles too!


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Probably 4-5 hours of sanding + polishing. About 30 minutes of that on the polishing.


Oh wow! Nice job cleaning it up! It even looks bigger! (that's what she said)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's just a PITA to source all Barrow fittings, when you want some of the less common shapes... They are definitely a great way to save money though. also, as popularity has grown, their prices have gone up.


I got all of the ones in the pic I posted, double rotary 90s, single rotary 90s and 45s, compressions, triple rotary snake, and various length extensions all from one place: pccoolings on ebay.


----------



## jamsomito

Here's my humble setup. Just got the Mayhems Pastel Blue - looking forward to testing the longevity of the stuff. I'm prepared for a full system clean out if need be, but hopefully it'll last a while.











Spoiler: more pics!



















































I ran my system for about 9 months with Tygon tubing - distilled + silver coil. Those tubes leaked plasticizer like no other. It was time to change. You can tell the old from the unused Tygon from the new Primochill pretty easily.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamsomito*
> 
> Here's my humble setup. Just got the Mayhems Pastel Blue - looking forward to testing the longevity of the stuff. I'm prepared for a full system clean out if need be, but hopefully it'll last a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran my system for about 9 months with Tygon tubing - distilled + silver coil. Those tubes leaked plasticizer like no other. It was time to change. You can tell the old from the unused Tygon from the new Primochill pretty easily.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love Mayhems pastel. Matches the Corsair color rings perfectly in your shots. He sells a concentrate for it, right?


----------



## jamsomito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I love Mayhems pastel. Matches the Corsair color rings perfectly in your shots. He sells a concentrate for it, right?


Yep! That's exactly what I used, the concentrate + diluted with distilled water.


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Once upon a time this was a CSQ DDC top.


I got blinded by over exposure to pure awesomeness !


----------



## Noviets

Has anyone experienced the 2400 RPM noiseblocker (B12-4) being faulty?

I have one fan that just doesnt want to start, and when it does, it seems to be going alot slower than it should, like it's not recieving the correct voltage.

At first I thought it was because I had 3 fans on the same channel, but I just changed it to be on its own channel, and it's doing the exact same thing.

It "Twitches" for a good few minutes before it starts spinning up. My fan controller has a start boost, which just makes it twitch more, but not actually start it, all the other fans roar away when I turn it on. just this one fan doesnt.

Is the fan faulty?

I have a spare B12-4 that I could swap it in with it, I'm just curious if anyone has experienced this or if it's fixable?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Has anyone experienced the 2400 RPM noiseblocker (B12-4) being faulty?
> 
> I have one fan that just doesnt want to start, and when it does, it seems to be going alot slower than it should, like it's not recieving the correct voltage.
> 
> At first I thought it was because I had 3 fans on the same channel, but I just changed it to be on its own channel, and it's doing the exact same thing.
> 
> It "Twitches" for a good few minutes before it starts spinning up. My fan controller has a start boost, which just makes it twitch more, but not actually start it, all the other fans roar away when I turn it on. just this one fan doesnt.
> 
> Is the fan faulty?
> 
> I have a spare B12-4 that I could swap it in with it, I'm just curious if anyone has experienced this or if it's fixable?


Sounds like a dead fan. If it's still under warranty, I'd RMA it.


----------



## Chirpy

Damn. I missed a lot of new stuff while I was away.


----------



## GringoKillah1

here we go








https://flic.kr/p/p61bFw


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://flic.kr/p/oQy2ik
https://flic.kr/p/oQxApq
https://flic.kr/p/oQxVwm
https://flic.kr/p/p83dtc
https://flic.kr/p/oQxADo


----------



## stl drifter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> here we go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/p61bFw
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/oQy2ik
> https://flic.kr/p/oQxApq
> https://flic.kr/p/oQxVwm
> https://flic.kr/p/p83dtc
> https://flic.kr/p/oQxADo


What fittings are those.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stl drifter*
> 
> What fittings are those.


EKWB all of it.


----------



## stl drifter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> EKWB all of it.


Wow! Thanks for the fast reply. Those are some badass looking fittings.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stl drifter*
> 
> Wow! Thanks for the fast reply. Those are some badass looking fittings.


Yup, they looking werry "badass"


----------



## _REAPER_

Not done with my cable management but wanted to post my work in progess


----------



## Alex132

Does anyone else find that false floor right under the fill port of the Photon 270/170 res really dumb?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Does anyone else find that false floor right under the fill port of the Photon 270/170 res really dumb?


It's the top mount for the glass rod that runs down the middle of the res. I didn't really find it to be 'dumb', as I expected something like that had to be there before I even ordered it, but at the time I ordered mine it was new and there weren't any reviews yet. All I had to go by were images XSPC had posted and the few details on their reseller product pages.

I was surprised at how much trickier it made it to fill the res though. Took me a few minutes of scratching my head before I thought to throw a couple books under one end of the case to tilt it which worked a treat.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Does anyone else find that false floor right under the fill port of the Photon 270/170 res really dumb?
> 
> 
> 
> It's the top mount for the glass rod that runs down the middle of the res. I didn't really find it to be 'dumb', as I expected something like that had to be there before I even ordered it, but at the time I ordered mine it was new and there weren't any reviews yet. All I had to go by were images XSPC had posted and the few details on their reseller product pages.
> 
> I was surprised at how much trickier it made it to fill the res though. Took me a few minutes of scratching my head before I thought to throw a couple books under one end of the case to tilt it which worked a treat.
Click to expand...

The first time I filled the res, I had a whole bunch of splash-back of water from that :/

I just filled it very VERY slowly now - it also doesn't help that I have like 3cm of clearance between my rad and res


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The first time I filled the res, I had a whole bunch of splash-back of water from that :/
> 
> I just filled it very VERY slowly now - it also doesn't help that I have like 3cm of clearance between my rad and res


lol, I only have just about ~15mm of space above/below my Photon. I had to make my own tool to be able to open and close the fill port in such a tight space.

I use a squeeze-type fill bottle (aka "wash bottle") and with the res tilted ~20-30 degrees it fills up quickly. If I try to do the same with the res straight up and down I have to go painfully slow or else it gets airlocked and nothing will go in. You just need at least one of the oval-shaped holes down in the port to stay above the incoming fluid to let air escape.


----------



## iBored

Will a 1000rpm fan running at 100% be louder than a 1850rpm fan running at 1000rpm and why?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> *Will a 1000rpm fan running at 100% be louder than a 1850rpm fan running at 1000rpm* and why?


No.

At 1000rpms and less most fans are relatively the same in noise and performance, especially if you are talking about running them on a rad. It isn't until higher rpms that better fans like Gentle Typhoons start to differentiate themselves. It doesn't matter if it's a 1000rpm fan or an 1850rpm fan.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/
Quote:


> *BEST FAN 300FPM (~1000 RPM)*
> 
> At this point I would call all the fans relatively the same. The Cougars, Noiseblocker, Noctua, GTs, Piranha, are all performing in that 36-39dBA and subjectively hard to tell much difference. *This and slower speeds is where it just doesn't make sense to spend a ton of money on fans. Cheaper value fans perform just as well as the expensive ones and the Gentle Typhoons also don't really separate themselves much.* I actually prefer the sleeved and HDB bearing type fans a little better in noise quality at these slower speeds. I would probably call it a tie between the Noiseblocker B12-3, Noctua NF-F12, and Cougar HDB as they seem to have a slightly smoother sound quality at these slower speeds.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> here we go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/p61bFw
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/oQy2ik
> https://flic.kr/p/oQxApq
> https://flic.kr/p/oQxVwm
> https://flic.kr/p/p83dtc
> https://flic.kr/p/oQxADo


GPU looks like it's sagging a bit I'm guessing from the fitting and rigid pipe?


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> GPU looks like it's sagging a bit I'm guessing from the fitting and rigid pipe?


Honestly i don't know why, seems like problem in the water block weight


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Honestly i don't know why, seems like problem in the water block weight


I'm not so sure it's sagging, or if so very much. Looks a bit like the backplate is bowed up in the middle (hitting something?) and possibly the vertical part of the L-shaped tube that runs along the bottom of the GPU and down to the res might be a millimeter too long, both factors contributing to the appearance of a sagging card.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not so sure it's sagging, or if so very much. Looks a bit like the backplate is bowed up in the middle (hitting something?) and possibly the vertical part of the L-shaped tube that runs along the bottom of the GPU and down to the res might be a millimeter too long, both factors contributing to the appearance of a sagging card.


Maybe, i need to check it. But when i have soft tubing i see the same picture with sagging GPU


----------



## sdmf74

yeah Ive got a B12-4 that is defective, mine is makin a sick noise @ anything above 1200-1300 rpms


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Maybe, i need to check it. But when i have soft tubing i see the same picture with sagging GPU


Well, maybe I'm wrong about the tube, but it does look to me like the backplate is bowed up in the middle making any sag if there is any look more noticeable/pronounced than it really is.



Or perhaps that's just the backplate sagging on the end along with the card from the weight of the block? I dunno.

Edit: I should have mentioned already that your build is very sweet looking regardless of the nitpicking. Nice work!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> yeah Ive got a B12-4 that is defective, mine is makin a sick noise @ anything above 1200-1300 rpms


Mind taking a video? I got 2 in here that seem just fine but don't go above 2150ish RPM no matter what.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, maybe I'm wrong about the tube, but it does look to me like the backplate is bowed up in the middle making any sag if there is any look more noticeable/pronounced than it really is.
> 
> 
> 
> Or perhaps that's just the backplate sagging on the end along with the card from the weight of the block? I dunno.
> 
> Edit: I should have mentioned already that your build is very sweet looking regardless of the nitpicking. Nice work!


hmm, maybe problem in the tube








Thx for mention this, i will check it next time.
And Thx sir


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mind taking a video? I got 2 in here that seem just fine but don't go above 2150ish RPM no matter what.


Its on the back as intake but i could probably do that, I think that is typical for NB Eloops, speeds never match up with what they are rated


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Its on the back as intake but i could probably do that, I think that is typical for NB Eloops, speeds never match up with what they are rated


Oh you may be having the eloop droning effect then. If you have < 1.5cm of space between the fins/heatsink and an eloop then you can either see the fan blade hitting the fins or induce a low flying drone-like noise. If that isn't the case, then I am really interested in a video


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Its on the back as intake but i could probably do that, I think that is typical for NB Eloops, speeds never match up with what they are rated


I also have a B12-4 as a rear intake, I tried putting two of thoise little rubber pads on each screw to acts as spacers, still makes the noise though. I just have it turned down as low as I can without it turning off at this point. Still pulls in a fair bit.

I might fiddle with it some more when I replace this defective top fan


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh you may be having the eloop droning effect then. If you have < 1.5mm of space between the fins/heatsink and an eloop then you can either see the fan blade hitting the fins or induce a low flying drone-like noise. If that isn't the case, then I am really interested in a video


I believe it only affects eLoops when used in pull and though it can sound like the blades hitting something it's usually just an unintended aerodynamic effect because the fans weren't really designed to be used in pull. If that's how sdmf74 has them mounted then you might well be right. Here's some previous discussion on this thread about the issue:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> last week i asked if we can use Noiseblocker e-loops as push and pull here is the offical answer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in the FAQ on the e-loop home page:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?*
> 
> This is due to aerodynamics, simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessories) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimized for.
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## VSG

Yup, also realized I have a typo above. It should have been < 1.5 cm and not mm









Here's what Niels from Noiseblocker was telling me (pretty much the same thing as the above quote):
Quote:


> Regarding the Push-Pull configuration with the NB-eLoop fans:
> sometimes we have a high frequently noise problem when the fans are used in Pull configuration.
> This happens, when the fins of a CPU Cooler of Radiator are to close to the impeller. We suggest a min. distance of about 1-1,5cm between the fan and the fins of the radiator.
> In Push configuration everything is fin.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh you may be having the eloop droning effect then. If you have < 1.5cm of space between the fins/heatsink and an eloop then you can either see the fan blade hitting the fins or induce a low flying drone-like noise. If that isn't the case, then I am really interested in a video


No I dont believe that it as I am just using it as rear intake, no rad. Videos coming I apologize this is the first time I have uploaded a video (with this new camera) anyway and I had the res turned way up so it will be a minute. You are gonna want to see/hear this it is freakin loud.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> I also have a B12-4 as a rear intake, I tried putting two of thoise little rubber pads on each screw to acts as spacers, still makes the noise though. I just have it turned down as low as I can without it turning off at this point. Still pulls in a fair bit.
> 
> I might fiddle with it some more when I replace this defective top fan


Thats funny I did the same thing, Bought some M3 & M4 o-rings from PPC's.

I think it's just this model cause I have 6 NB ELOOP B12-P fans on my top rad and all 6 arent even as loud as this one, granted when I took the vid I turned it up all the way to 2200 rpm's (fast as it will go). See mine is 200 RPM short of its rated output too


----------



## Kimir

1-1,5cm you say, woot. I have my eLoop pwm on the monsta in P/P and I've no issue (the monsta have something like 5mm between the casing and fins).
5-10mm is more like it yeah.


----------



## sdmf74

People are really loving these Eloops, more and more people are starting to buy them, Mostly Im sure cause they look good but performance is pretty good too. Im gonna stick with the PWM (-P) ones from now on. Wish they still made the PWM gentle Typhoons, thats what im using on my front (monsta) rad.........vids almost ready


----------



## VSG

I will get a few different eloops and see how they work out on my various rads. These are definitely seeming like the go-to fans now, especially if you need the higher RPMs of some of the models or are finicky about noise for the lower rpm models. The look is also pretty unique.


----------



## sdmf74

Here is the link to the vid. Its super loud when I have the camera speaker right next to the fan, sorry bout the shakiness I had to step over my Klipsch THX subwoofers to get to it









http://youtu.be/Jpk2O1_c0nI?list=UUbxOpO32z4jtNylGryCXgqQ


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Not for me,Alpenfohn's FTW.

Those eloops are ugly mutha's.


----------



## Kimir

Damn right, they are beautiful to me and they perform well, got them all pwm (the two version of them) hooked up to the AQ6, works perfectly.
I wanted to try the Typhoons, but couldn't find any here, didn't even knew they existed in pwm.

How stupid of Scythe to stop selling them, and Nidec doesn't seems to keep up by selling them themselves.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Here is the link to the vid. Its super loud when I have the camera speaker right next to the fan, sorry bout the shakiness I had to step over my Klipsch THX subwoofers to get to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://youtu.be/Jpk2O1_c0nI?list=UUbxOpO32z4jtNylGryCXgqQ


Wow ya, definitely something off with that fan. You can pop off the blade assembly and remount it- see if that helps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not for me,Alpenfohn's FTW.
> 
> Those eloops are ugly mutha's.


Looks. Subjective.

But I agree- those Alpenfohn's look incredible. Too bad no one here carries them, would love to try them out without needing to import them each time.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not for me,Alpenfohn's FTW.
> 
> Those eloops are ugly mutha's.


Speaking of Alpenföhn, any word from Specialtech?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Damn right, they are beautiful to me and they perform well, got them all pwm (the two version of them) hooked up to the AQ6, works perfectly.
> I wanted to try the Typhoons, but couldn't find any here, didn't even knew they existed in pwm.
> 
> How stupid of Scythe to stop selling them, and Nidec doesn't seems to keep up by selling them themselves.


Well it was only the high speed GT's (black blades) and you either had to solder the 4th wire on to the hub or do like I did and have PPC's do it. They look factory sleeved and didnt charge any extra. AP29PWM's are great 3000rpm's but quiet at lower speeds. I have a couple of the 4250 rpm PWM ones as well but im thinkin bout sellin em

Not too crazy bout the pic of the mountains on the Alpenfohns but aside from that they look alright. I think the eloops look classier. Subjective though for sure


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Damn right, they are beautiful to me and they perform well, got them all pwm (the two version of them) hooked up to the AQ6, works perfectly.
> I wanted to try the Typhoons, but couldn't find any here, *didn't even knew they existed in* pwm.


Im hopin they bring back the old style GT's The new ones are weak (Grand Flex)

Pic of AP30PWM (for reference only)


Pretty loud at 3000rpm+. still nice & dirty


----------



## VSG

New 180mm rads from EK are out today, pricing is better than what I expected too: http://www.ekwb.com/news/518/19/EK-releases-180mm-series-Coolstream-WE-radiator/

Edit: Also some 180mm PWM fans- http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fan-180-pwm-500-900-rpm.html


----------



## Alex132

Finally got my PWM extension to control my D5 pump, holy balls, it is SO SILENT.
I dunno why Swiftech made the stock one so short (~20-25cm?), maybe they had no choice and it was Laing.

Out of interest, do you guys think that my RX360 rad with ~650-700rpm fans could handle adding a ~250-350w GPU to it? (not my 690).
I have heard roughly ~120mm of rad space per GPU/CPU - but with such a low FPI radiator (~8) and slow spinning fans I would wonder if it might be wise to get something like another 140mm rad for my rear-intake as well?

Or just move to a new case already, this 800D is very cramped inside :/


----------



## bluemarble

Sharing with you guys! only good stuff in there


----------



## sdmf74

@ Bluemarble beautiful rig!

I have a question for yous guys. I seem to have a pretty decent chip here, Ive been trying for a couple days now to achieve 49x to no avail, however I seem to be stable @ 48x 1.3218v. Cache ratio also at 48x & memory is 2400mhz.

The problem is that when I leave the motherboards cache voltage set to Auto it is around 1.4v or slightly higher, I have managed to find stability (so far) by setting it manually to @ 1.375v.

Should I be conerned about this high of a cach voltage and possible degradation if i settle with it as my 24/7 oc?


----------



## SinatraFan

Nice rig Marble!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

so much flow the res is making cracking sounds through the aquapipe.. I was testing for pump top fit
The noise in the res is louder than pump lol


----------



## szeged

Ordered a EK d5 clean plexi pump top + d5 pump from PPCs with overnight shipping, they take two days to even print off the shipping label (so much for overnight shipping right?).

package finally arrives today......They sent me the wrong item. Request an RMA...

"sure we will RMA it for you, just pay shipping back"

"hahahahahahaha no."


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Ordered a EK d5 clean plexi pump top + d5 pump from PPCs with overnight shipping, they take two days to even print off the shipping label (so much for overnight shipping right?).
> 
> package finally arrives today......They sent me the wrong item. Request an RMA...
> 
> "sure we will RMA it for you, just pay shipping back"
> 
> "hahahahahahaha no."


Annnnnd, now you know why people like to deal with FCPU instead of PPCs, even at the cost of higher shipping and slightly higher prices .


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Ordered a EK d5 clean plexi pump top + d5 pump from PPCs with overnight shipping, they take two days to even print off the shipping label (so much for overnight shipping right?).
> 
> package finally arrives today......They sent me the wrong item. Request an RMA...
> 
> "sure we will RMA it for you, just pay shipping back"
> 
> "hahahahahahaha no."


That's nuts man, always odd when I hear stories like this about PPC's. They've _always_ shipped orders to me in two days (excluding Sundays) and normally get the package out the same day I place the order. Out of two or three dozen orders I've made with them they've only made one mistake (sent a blue black ice rad instead of a black one) and they sent me a return label so I could ship it back for free. Blows my mind they have such wildly varying customer support.

Anyway, there's no way you should have to pay return shipping. Call them up and demand a return label. Hope you get it resolved quickly man.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

They got my back. I added a note for them to over pack my order and there was 6 inches of packing peanuts on the top and bottom between the box and items, my nemesis rads showed up flawless.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Annnnnd, now you know why people like to deal with FCPU instead of PPCs, even at the cost of higher shipping and slightly higher prices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Guess it depends on where you live, because FCPU does tend to have a bit higher prices overall on almost everything but they always have cheaper shipping for the same shipping options for the same items to where I live, and sometimes by quite a bit. Assuming both places have all of what I needed I always go through and total everything up at both just to see which is actually cheaper after the shipping gets added and it seems to be about 50/50 depending on what I'm ordering. I always just go for whichever one costs less.


----------



## szeged

i usually have good support from them and i like to shop with them due to them being in florida with me BUT it will be a cold day in hell when i pay shipping for their mistake.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> so much flow the res is making cracking sounds through the aquapipe.. I was testing for pump top fit
> The noise in the res is louder than pump lol


What pump is that? A D5 on steroids? I don't think I've seen one like that before.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i usually have good support from them and i like to shop with them due to them being in florida with me BUT it will be a cold day in hell when i pay shipping for their mistake.


Seriously, that's unacceptable. I guess I'm sort of lucky that they are 15 minutes from my house in Viera, so I don't have to deal with shipping or anything when I'm down there.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> so much flow the res is making cracking sounds through the aquapipe.. I was testing for pump top fit
> The noise in the res is louder than pump lol
> 
> 
> 
> What pump is that? A D5 on steroids? I don't think I've seen one like that before.
Click to expand...

Industrial vario of the D5 IIRC


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Industrial vario of the D5 IIRC


Me

Want


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> so much flow the res is making cracking sounds through the aquapipe.. I was testing for pump top fit
> The noise in the res is louder than pump lol
> 
> 
> 
> What pump is that? A D5 on steroids? I don't think I've seen one like that before.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Industrial vario of the D5 IIRC
Click to expand...

Nope,there is no industrial D5 other than the Solar.

It looks like an E series maybe....


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Damn right, they are beautiful to me and they perform well, got them all pwm (the two version of them) hooked up to the AQ6, works perfectly.
> I wanted to try the Typhoons, but couldn't find any here, didn't even knew they existed in pwm.
> 
> How stupid of Scythe to stop selling them, and Nidec doesn't seems to keep up by selling them themselves.


IIRC, Scythe and Nidec got in a huge argument about manufacturing, their contract was cancelled, and Scythe wouldn't let Nidec keep manufacturing the design under a different name. It's a real shame, as they were some of the highest quality fans on the market. Their new fans are junk, too.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> IIRC, Scythe and Nidec got in a huge argument about manufacturing, their contract was cancelled, and Scythe wouldn't let Nidec keep manufacturing the design under a different name. It's a real shame, as they were some of the highest quality fans on the market. Their new fans are junk, too.


IIRC, the only thing Scythe owned the rights to was the name "Gentle Typhoon" and Nidec owned the rights to the design and manufacturing side of things. Scythe was only a reseller. AFAIK, Nidec still makes the fan under the name D1225, but are only available in bulk quantities. I'm still holding out hope that Nidec with team up with another company and bring them back under a different name.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> IIRC, Scythe and Nidec got in a huge argument about manufacturing, their contract was cancelled, and Scythe wouldn't let Nidec keep manufacturing the design under a different name. It's a real shame, as they were some of the highest quality fans on the market. Their new fans are junk, too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> IIRC, the only thing Scythe owned the rights to was the name "Gentle Typhoon" and Nidec owned the rights to the design and manufacturing side of things. Scythe was only a reseller. AFAIK, Nidec still makes the fan under the name D1225, but are only available in bulk quantities. I'm still holding out hope that Nidec with team up with another company and bring them back under a different name.


Not exactly.

Nidec owns both the design and name (see their trademark here) for the Gentle Typhoon fan. Scythe was just a distributor and they had a falling out with Nidec for some reasons not ever disclosed. They apparently couldn't come to agreeable terms to continue their contract. Nidec still manufactures the Gentle Typhoon lineup them for anyone who can meet their MOQ, which is apparently a LOT. Dazmode, Canada's premier Watercooling shop, says they want an agreement to sell a min 10,000 fans yr.


----------



## morencyam

So we were both right on certain things. I just knew that they were still being made, but available for bulk purchases only. 10,000 is quite a lot of fans though


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not exactly.
> 
> Nidec owns both the design and name (see their trademark here) for the Gentle Typhoon fan. Scythe was just a distributor and they had a falling out with Nidec for some reasons not ever disclosed. They apparently couldn't come to agreeable terms to continue their contract. Nidec still manufactures the Gentle Typhoon lineup them for anyone who can meet their MOQ, which is apparently a LOT. Dazmode, Canada's premier Watercooling shop, says they want an agreement to sell a min 10,000 fans yr.


10,000 fans a year?!?! Geez...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not exactly.
> 
> Nidec owns both the design and name (see their trademark here) for the Gentle Typhoon fan. Scythe was just a distributor and they had a falling out with Nidec for some reasons not ever disclosed. They apparently couldn't come to agreeable terms to continue their contract. Nidec still manufactures the Gentle Typhoon lineup them for anyone who can meet their MOQ, which is apparently a LOT. Dazmode, Canada's premier Watercooling shop, says they want an agreement to sell a min 10,000 fans yr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10,000 fans a year?!?! Geez...
Click to expand...

If Daz was smart then he would setup NA/CAN/EU distribution.....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If Daz was smart then he would setup NA/CAN/EU distribution.....


I don't think Dazmode has the funds or line of credit to ever be able to agree to any such terms. What with posts like this it seems like he's just barely keeping his head above water sometimes as it is.

edit: Perhaps you could try to convince Specialtech to do it? That'd be awesome! It would definitely help put Specialtech on the map internationally, more so than they already are, at least with the watercooling crowd.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Having GTs back for sale would be a hit for sure. Would be an even greater hit if whoever reach a deal with Nidec could also offer different colors schemes: all black, all white, white/black and so on. I recall watching a stock of gt 15 around 500 units go away real quick at Frozencpu at some point last year but not sure any of the regular suppliers of PC gear would be able to stock 10.000 units at a time. Perhaps if they were willing to cooperate and divide the stock but...

edit- BTW it seems still possible to get all models of GTs, including the PWM models, from vendors in china at around US$ 20. The problem is to check those out without speaking Chinese









http://s.taobao.com/search?q=Nidec+Servo+Gentle+Typhoon+GT+1450+PWM&app=detail


----------



## Puck

Finally getting around to some needed maintenance/clean up on my loop. Ordered a replacement D5 for one of my dead ones, another 16 OEM surplus server fans(80cfm/36db/2200RPM) to go push/pull on my 2 GTX480s (and still have enough to go push/pull on a third once I find a good deal on one), and some braided fan extensions that I cut in half and solder onto the bare fan leads for quick cheap and easy sleeved cables. Also got a few cable combs for my 4x braided PCI cables, and going to blow the rads out with my shop air compressor.

These mesh filters are very restrictive and kill rad performance, so just push isn't performing as well as it did without them, but its WELL WORTH IT to keep the inside clean for so long since my dog stays inside now







. Haven't blown out these rads in like a year and they are nowhere near as dirty as my old setup would get after like 3 months.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Having GTs back for sale would be a hit for sure. Would be an even greater hit if whoever reach a deal with Nidec could also offer different colors schemes: all black, all white, white/black and so on. I recall watching a stock of gt 15 around 500 units go away real quick at Frozencpu at some point last year but not sure any of the regular suppliers of PC gear would be able to stock 10.000 units at a time. Perhaps if they were willing to cooperate and divide the stock but...
> 
> edit- BTW it seems still possible to get all models of GTs, including the PWM models, from vendors in china at around US$ 20. The problem is to check those out without speaking Chinese
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s.taobao.com/search?q=Nidec+Servo+Gentle+Typhoon+GT+1450+PWM&app=detail


http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=Nidec+Servo+Gentle+Typhoon+&catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20140908164209

What about them? Although I tried contacting them regarding Delta fans and got 0 replies.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=Nidec+Servo+Gentle+Typhoon+&catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20140908164209
> 
> What about them? Although I tried contacting them regarding Delta fans and got 0 replies.


$78 each. I think I'll pass lol


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> These acrylic hard lines are tough lol


Beautiful build here!!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Beautiful build here!!


Thanks man!

On another note, I NEED HELP SOMEONE. Would anyone have any idea why two D5s wouldn't have enough muscle to push through my loop with enough flow for my koolance flow meter to read anything? Before, I had a D5 and two mcp350s, and they were able to make a reading on my flow meter. I replaced the two mcp350s with a new D5 and now the meter won't read any flow, even when I can see flow. Ideas?

My loop goes like this : res, pump, 240, 360, pump, 480, gpu, gpu, gpu, 120, cpu, 240, ram, res.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Thanks man!
> 
> On another note, I NEED HELP SOMEONE. Would anyone have any idea why two D5s wouldn't have enough muscle to push through my loop with enough flow for my koolance flow meter to read anything? Before, I had a D5 and two mcp350s, and they were able to make a reading on my flow meter. I replaced the two mcp350s with a new D5 and now the meter won't read any flow, even when I can see flow. Ideas?
> 
> My loop goes like this : res, pump, 240, 360, pump, 480, gpu, gpu, gpu, 120, cpu, 240, ram, res.


That awesome build is the one you're referring to? Was your flow reading low by chance with your other pump setup? There really should be no reason for a flow blockage with hard tubing. Did you test the pumps before you put them in your loop? I would pull the pumps and flow meter out and test them outside the loop first. It seems more likely to be a pump issue other than the flow meter, as that was working prior to switching the pumps.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> That awesome build is the one you're referring to? Was your flow reading low by chance with your other pump setup? There really should be no reason for a flow blockage with hard tubing. Did you test the pumps before you put them in your loop? I would pull the pumps and flow meter out and test them outside the loop first. It seems more likely to be a pump issue other than the flow meter, as that was working prior to switching the pumps.


Unfortunately yeah. My flow before I changed pumps was at 1.9 LPM, and I thought that was ridiculously low. So I got a second D5. I did have both D5s running by themselves to make sure they were both working. The weird part was that while I was filling my loop, once coolant passed through the flow meter, it would register it. But as soon as the coolant made it's way through the entire loop back to the res, the flow meter went back down to 0. Even with both pumps at the "5" setting. The loop itself is very pressurized. But not a whirlwind of flow that I can tell in the res. I'm so lost on what it could be.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Unfortunately yeah. My flow before I changed pumps was at 1.9 LPM, and I thought that was ridiculously low. So I got a second D5. I did have both D5s running by themselves to make sure they were both working. The weird part was that while I was filling my loop, once coolant passed through the flow meter, it would register it. But as soon as the coolant made it's way through the entire loop back to the res, the flow meter went back down to 0. Even with both pumps at the "5" setting. The loop itself is very pressurized. But not a whirlwind of flow that I can tell in the res. I'm so lost on what it could be.


The only thing I could think of is a misplaced in/out in one of the tops. That would give you close to zero flow since one pump would conflict with the other. Have you used the pc after changing pumps or just filled and attempted bleed?


----------



## P206GTI

Hi there !! here is my rig, this is not finished, i've ordered a TH-10 from caselabs plus some 480 rads








, so this is what i have so far
Sorry for the bad camera


----------



## Qu1ckset

Anyone know where I can find the buildlog for this build , I want to see more!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P206GTI*
> 
> Hi there !! here is my rig, this is not finished, i've ordered a TH-10 from caselabs plus some 480 rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so this is what i have so far
> Sorry for the bad camera
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a quirky color scheme, but I kinda like it. Great job on the plumbing!


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find the buildlog for this build , I want to see more!


Where'd you find that? Looks amazing.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find the buildlog for this build , I want to see more!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Imagine what the other side must look like...


----------



## mus1mus

Here.. Bernardo's build log


----------



## Roxxas049

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find the buildlog for this build , I want to see more!


Google Ek cromo water cooled build, its on their facebook page too.

As for a build log, I couldn't find one either. Might have to contact EKWB for info.


----------



## tecuarenta

Is it weird to mix red accents with lime green coolant? Please, share your opinions.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Here.. Bernardo's build log


So simple, yet elegant...


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Is it weird to mix red accents with lime green coolant? Please, share your opinions.


Does Mayhems make a pastel lime green? If so, I'd look into something like that. A solid color would look much better, IMO.

That said, as is, I don't much like it, but I may be a minority.


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> here we go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/p61bFw
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/oQy2ik
> https://flic.kr/p/oQxApq
> https://flic.kr/p/oQxVwm
> https://flic.kr/p/p83dtc
> https://flic.kr/p/oQxADo


This looks just incredible. I also love the fact that you took the time and bended the tubing instead of using fittings and just straight tubes. For me that shows that the builder has skill







Very nice job


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Does Mayhems make a pastel lime green? If so, I'd look into something like that. A solid color would look much better, IMO.
> 
> That said, as is, I don't much like it, but I may be a minority.


Thank you for your opinion, much apreciated.
This is glycol-based car coolant.
I have used Mayhems pastel ice white and ek blood red coolants but due to some debris stuck on my XT45 rad they all fade in a couple of months.

I hope mayhems blitz will do the trick.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> This looks just incredible. I also love the fact that you took the time and bended the tubing instead of using fittings and just straight tubes. For me that shows that the builder has skill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice job


Thanks you


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Is it weird to mix red accents with lime green coolant? Please, share your opinions.


I would go for a different color like Red or White. it would match the color of your build a little bit better


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Beautiful build here!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man!
> 
> On another note, I NEED HELP SOMEONE. Would anyone have any idea why two D5s wouldn't have enough muscle to push through my loop with enough flow for my koolance flow meter to read anything? Before, I had a D5 and two mcp350s, and they were able to make a reading on my flow meter. I replaced the two mcp350s with a new D5 and now the meter won't read any flow, even when I can see flow. Ideas?
> 
> My loop goes like this : res, pump, 240, 360, pump, 480, gpu, gpu, gpu, 120, cpu, 240, ram, res.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> That awesome build is the one you're referring to? Was your flow reading low by chance with your other pump setup? There really should be no reason for a flow blockage with hard tubing. Did you test the pumps before you put them in your loop? I would pull the pumps and flow meter out and test them outside the loop first. It seems more likely to be a pump issue other than the flow meter, as that was working prior to switching the pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately yeah. My flow before I changed pumps was at 1.9 LPM, and I thought that was ridiculously low. So I got a second D5. I did have both D5s running by themselves to make sure they were both working. The weird part was that while I was filling my loop, once coolant passed through the flow meter, it would register it. But as soon as the coolant made it's way through the entire loop back to the res, the flow meter went back down to 0. Even with both pumps at the "5" setting. The loop itself is very pressurized. But not a whirlwind of flow that I can tell in the res. I'm so lost on what it could be.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Unfortunately yeah. My flow before I changed pumps was at 1.9 LPM, and I thought that was ridiculously low. So I got a second D5. I did have both D5s running by themselves to make sure they were both working. The weird part was that while I was filling my loop, once coolant passed through the flow meter, it would register it. But as soon as the coolant made it's way through the entire loop back to the res, the flow meter went back down to 0. Even with both pumps at the "5" setting. The loop itself is very pressurized. But not a whirlwind of flow that I can tell in the res. I'm so lost on what it could be.
> 
> 
> 
> *The only thing I could think of is a misplaced in/out in one of the tops.* That would give you close to zero flow since one pump would conflict with the other. Have you used the pc after changing pumps or just filled and attempted bleed?
Click to expand...

This could be a real possibility . . . .

Try with only one pump powered up, and then switch and see with the just the other pump powered up.

If that's the issue, should know which one is backwards now. . . . . .

If it didn't work either way . . . .see if you have connections to 2 in's, 2 out's, or backwards, on both pumps.

If you're absolutely sure you have both pumps plumbed in properly . . .

How about the GPU bridge . . . . The way you have it plumbed, it could be for parallel or serial, . . . . depending on where you have the internal blocking plugs.

Could you have put them in wrong, or used the wrong top and bottom ports for the way they have to go in?

. . . . The Koolance flow meters themselves can be finicky when the flow path is horizontal and in the greater scheme, top to bottom. They trap air easily and the impeller doesn't always spin.

They are also more susceptible to gremlins when the flow thru them is non-laminar. . . . . like you might get after a sharp angle fitting.

The work best when vertical with upwards flow, or horizontal with the greater scheme going upwards.

From what you say about the lack of visual flow indication in the res though, I'd look much closer at the pump plumbing or the gpu bridge flow path.

Darlene


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> So we were both right on certain things. I just knew that they were still being made, but available for bulk purchases only. 10,000 is quite a lot of fans though


That would cover an immense rad, in push pull configuration, and 10-20 fans on each side


----------



## shinji2k

I've always wanted to build my own blocks so I started working on a cpu block prototype. It's basically a cross between the Supreme LTX and an Apogee XL. I only have a manual mill so I can't do anything too fancy and a crossflow design is the most feasible. I also plan on making a matching universal gpu block.

http://picturepush.com/public/14346014

http://picturepush.com/public/14346013

I'm still have to buy a 3/32" end mill for the 2mm o-ring cord I bought. The base is aluminum for now since I'm just prototyping, copper is expensive







. The channels are 0.5mm/0.02in, I tried using a 0.01in slitting saw but my homemade arbor wasn't rigid enough.

So what do you all think? Any suggestions?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The only thing I could think of is a misplaced in/out in one of the tops. That would give you close to zero flow since one pump would conflict with the other. Have you used the pc after changing pumps or just filled and attempted bleed?


It's always possible to make a silly mistake like that, but no, the in/outs are correct on both pumps. And I'm on the computer right now, the temps seem to be good. 33c across all 3 gpus, cpu is around 34c on all cores. this is web browsing of course. I haven't played any games yet. It's been about 30 min with the computer on, I had to redo some fan wiring. I also have a coolant temp sensor and it's currently reading 31.8c. No air is being pushed through the pumps right now, but it does still need to be bled all the way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This could be a real possibility . . . .
> 
> Try with only one pump powered up, and then switch and see with the just the other pump powered up.
> 
> If that's the issue, should know which one is backwards now. . . . . .
> 
> If it didn't work either way . . . .see if you have connections to 2 in's, 2 out's, or backwards, on both pumps.
> 
> If you're absolutely sure you have both pumps plumbed in properly . . .
> 
> How about the GPU bridge . . . . The way you have it plumbed, it could be for parallel or serial, . . . . depending on where you have the internal blocking plugs.
> 
> Could you have put them in wrong, or used the wrong top and bottom ports for the way they have to go in?
> 
> . . . . The Koolance flow meters themselves can be finicky when the flow path is horizontal and in the greater scheme, top to bottom. They trap air easily and the impeller doesn't always spin.
> 
> They are also more susceptible to gremlins when the flow thru them is non-laminar. . . . . like you might get after a sharp angle fitting.
> 
> The work best when vertical with upwards flow, or horizontal with the greater scheme going upwards.
> 
> From what you say about the lack of visual flow indication in the res though, I'd look much closer at the pump plumbing or the gpu bridge flow path.
> 
> Darlene


I really appreciate your input, you brought up some very valid points. However it seems I am able to shoot them all down.

I have tried either pumps by themselves, and they work just fine. They are plumbed correctly as well, like I said before to the other guy, it would be a silly mistake to make and I've seen it happen before but I have not made that mistake.

In regards to the GPU bridge, as far as I know it's setup for parallel. Only because Watercool specifically says their serial plugs are not included with the bridge. I had never wanted to run serial anyway, so I didn't buy any plugs for the bridge. Now that being said, I haven't looked physically through the ports of the bridge, but then again the temps are all the same with the 3 GPUs; around 33-35c while idle. I do not think I have them plumbed wrong, with parallel iirc it wouldn't matter as much where each fitting goes on the ends of the bridge. Please correct me if I'm wrong though.

And with the Koolance flow meter being finicky while horizontal...on the contrary, I have only read stories of them being finicky while vertical. I literally tested the meter by blowing into it RIGHT before plumbing it in the loop, it read a flow while the loop was being filled. And that was horizontal. As soon as the loop was about filled up, and by that I mean the coolant had finally gone through all the blocks and rads back into the reservoir, it stopped reading a flow. I can see the coolant turbulent inside the reservoir while the pumps are running, granted the turbulence isn't as high as I was expecting two D5s to make, but I can still see it. There is flow, no doubt about that.

There are also no sharp angle fittings before the flow meter. It's the radiator, two straight fittings, and then rigid tubing right into it. the tubing is bent for a 90 degree turn but those 90s are not abrupt of course.

Here is another shot I took a couple nights ago while I was working on it, feel like posting it just cause..


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah I'd mess around a bit with the connectors to make sure the pins are straight and making contact and slide the tubing ID switch around to make sure it's set right (didn't get bumped between settings) and barring any of that working I'd be draining and pulling that flow meter out of the loop to test it connected only to a pump in a simple loop to rule out any other factors. Then if it still didn't work I'd figure it's time to replace it.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> That's nuts man, always odd when I hear stories like this about PPC's. They've _always_ shipped orders to me in two days (excluding Sundays) and normally get the package out the same day I place the order. Out of two or three dozen orders I've made with them they've only made one mistake (sent a blue black ice rad instead of a black one) and they sent me a return label so I could ship it back for free. Blows my mind they have such wildly varying customer support.
> 
> Anyway, there's no way you should have to pay return shipping. Call them up and demand a return label. Hope you get it resolved quickly man.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> They got my back. I added a note for them to over pack my order and there was 6 inches of packing peanuts on the top and bottom between the box and items, my nemesis rads showed up flawless.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Guess it depends on where you live, because FCPU does tend to have a bit higher prices overall on almost everything but they always have cheaper shipping for the same shipping options for the same items to where I live, and sometimes by quite a bit. Assuming both places have all of what I needed I always go through and total everything up at both just to see which is actually cheaper after the shipping gets added and it seems to be about 50/50 depending on what I'm ordering. I always just go for whichever one costs less.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i usually have good support from them and i like to shop with them due to them being in florida with me BUT it will be a cold day in hell when i pay shipping for their mistake.


When my XSPC rev 4 bay pump/res combo came in and made tons of noise after filling, PPCS told me to throw it out and credited me the price of the standalone item, even though it came in a kit. I've had fantastic customer service every time I've dealt with them... And their phone support is very kind as well








Fins up FL crew!


----------



## SinatraFan

I've had good service by both PPCS and FCPU. No complaints here.

LifeIsShort.... Heck of a bending job there!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really, we're back on the topic of PPC/FCPU :SMH:


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Really, we're back on the topic of PPC/FCPU :SMH:


...it was only 4 pages ago.. Aka 17hrs".. Some of us have jobs you know


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> ...it was only 4 pages ago.. Aka 17hrs".. Some of us have jobs you know


I don't know if that was directed specifically to you, or just a general comment. It seems the FCPU vs PPCs topic gets brought up quite often in here.

I've ordered from both, much more from PPCs though. The only issue I had was with PPCs. I ordered a cathode kit with the custom sleeving option. When they opened the package to sleeve it, they forgot to put the inverter back into the package. I sent them an email with a picture of the packing slip and what I received, and two days later I had a whole new kit, not just the missing inverter, sitting on my porch.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinji2k*
> 
> I've always wanted to build my own blocks so I started working on a cpu block prototype. It's basically a cross between the Supreme LTX and an Apogee XL. I only have a manual mill so I can't do anything too fancy and a crossflow design is the most feasible. I also plan on making a matching universal gpu block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://picturepush.com/public/14346014
> 
> http://picturepush.com/public/14346013
> 
> 
> I'm still have to buy a 3/32" end mill for the 2mm o-ring cord I bought. The base is aluminum for now since I'm just prototyping, copper is expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The channels are 0.5mm/0.02in, I tried using a 0.01in slitting saw but my homemade arbor wasn't rigid enough.
> 
> So what do you all think? Any suggestions?


I think you should test up to to one of the better blocks and see the temperatures you get.









Nice work, I really like seeing things like this.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Simple remedy...no more PPC/FCPU talk in this thread,you got an axe to grind,then start a thread.
On a personal note,PPC can eat a bag of.........


----------



## P206GTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's a quirky color scheme, but I kinda like it. Great job on the plumbing!


Thnx man ! I liked the contrast between the coolant and compression fittings, with the new case everything is going to be more clean and tidy.


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I think you should test up to to one of the better blocks and see the temperatures you get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work, I really like seeing things like this.


I haven't messed with WCing in a while so the best block I have to compare to is the Apogee XT. That's probably 4-5C worse than most modern blocks but I would be happy getting anywhere close to those kind of temps







.


----------



## Gabrielzm

[quo


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



te name="lifeisshort117" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/72530#post_22819526"]
It's always possible to make a silly mistake like that, but no, the in/outs are correct on both pumps. And I'm on the computer right now, the temps seem to be good. 33c across all 3 gpus, cpu is around 34c on all cores. this is web browsing of course. I haven't played any games yet. It's been about 30 min with the computer on, I had to redo some fan wiring. I also have a coolant temp sensor and it's currently reading 31.8c. No air is being pushed through the pumps right now, but it does still need to be bled all the way.
I really appreciate your input, you brought up some very valid points. However it seems I am able to shoot them all down.

I have tried either pumps by themselves, and they work just fine. They are plumbed correctly as well, like I said before to the other guy, it would be a silly mistake to make and I've seen it happen before but I have not made that mistake.

In regards to the GPU bridge, as far as I know it's setup for parallel. Only because Watercool specifically says their serial plugs are not included with the bridge. I had never wanted to run serial anyway, so I didn't buy any plugs for the bridge. Now that being said, I haven't looked physically through the ports of the bridge, but then again the temps are all the same with the 3 GPUs; around 33-35c while idle. I do not think I have them plumbed wrong, with parallel iirc it wouldn't matter as much where each fitting goes on the ends of the bridge. Please correct me if I'm wrong though.

And with the Koolance flow meter being finicky while horizontal...on the contrary, I have only read stories of them being finicky while vertical. I literally tested the meter by blowing into it RIGHT before plumbing it in the loop, it read a flow while the loop was being filled. And that was horizontal. As soon as the loop was about filled up, and by that I mean the coolant had finally gone through all the blocks and rads back into the reservoir, it stopped reading a flow. I can see the coolant turbulent inside the reservoir while the pumps are running, granted the turbulence isn't as high as I was expecting two D5s to make, but I can still see it. There is flow, no doubt about that.

There are also no sharp angle fittings before the flow meter. It's the radiator, two straight fittings, and then rigid tubing right into it. the tubing is bent for a 90 degree turn but those 90s are not abrupt of course.

Here is another shot I took a couple nights ago while I was working on it, feel like posting it just cause..

[/quot


e]

Yeah I figure probably was not that but still was worth pointing since it was one possibility. I meant no disrespect.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Simple remedy...no more PPC/FCPU talk in this thread,you got an axe to grind,then start a thread.
> *On a personal note,PPC can eat a bag of.........*


Sounds like somebody has an axe to grind lol


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> It's always possible to make a silly mistake like that, but no, the in/outs are correct on both pumps. And I'm on the computer right now, the temps seem to be good. 33c across all 3 gpus, cpu is around 34c on all cores. this is web browsing of course. I haven't played any games yet. It's been about 30 min with the computer on, I had to redo some fan wiring. I also have a coolant temp sensor and it's currently reading 31.8c. No air is being pushed through the pumps right now, but it does still need to be bled all the way.
> I really appreciate your input, you brought up some very valid points. However it seems I am able to shoot them all down.
> 
> I have tried either pumps by themselves, and they work just fine. They are plumbed correctly as well, like I said before to the other guy, it would be a silly mistake to make and I've seen it happen before but I have not made that mistake.
> 
> In regards to the GPU bridge, as far as I know it's setup for parallel. Only because Watercool specifically says their serial plugs are not included with the bridge. I had never wanted to run serial anyway, so I didn't buy any plugs for the bridge. Now that being said, I haven't looked physically through the ports of the bridge, but then again the temps are all the same with the 3 GPUs; around 33-35c while idle. I do not think I have them plumbed wrong, with parallel iirc it wouldn't matter as much where each fitting goes on the ends of the bridge. Please correct me if I'm wrong though.
> 
> And with the Koolance flow meter being finicky while horizontal...on the contrary, I have only read stories of them being finicky while vertical. I literally tested the meter by blowing into it RIGHT before plumbing it in the loop, it read a flow while the loop was being filled. And that was horizontal. As soon as the loop was about filled up, and by that I mean the coolant had finally gone through all the blocks and rads back into the reservoir, it stopped reading a flow. I can see the coolant turbulent inside the reservoir while the pumps are running, granted the turbulence isn't as high as I was expecting two D5s to make, but I can still see it. There is flow, no doubt about that.
> 
> There are also no sharp angle fittings before the flow meter. It's the radiator, two straight fittings, and then rigid tubing right into it. the tubing is bent for a 90 degree turn but those 90s are not abrupt of course.
> 
> Here is another shot I took a couple nights ago while I was working on it, feel like posting it just cause..


Your coolant flow is going through the meter backwards.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Your coolant flow is going through the meter backwards.


I wish it was that easy, but no, it's definitely not. Like I said a couple pages back, it was working before I changed pumps and tubing. Nothing else changed other than those two things.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I wish it was that easy, but no, it's definitely not. Like I said a couple pages back, it was working before I changed pumps and tubing. Nothing else changed other than those two things.


Ok, talk me through the flow order then because in that picture it looks as if its Res-front rad-side rad-bottom rad-gpu blocks and so on.

Which would have water flowing through the meter backwards


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Ok, talk me through the flow order then because in that picture it looks as if its Res-front rad-side rad-bottom rad-gpu blocks and so on.
> 
> Which would have water flowing through the meter backwards


I could see how you'd think that with that picture. The loop order goes as follows : res/pump, 240, 360, 2nd pump, gpu, gpu, gpu, 120, mb, cpu, 240, ram, and back to res. The flow meter I rotated so the flow goes left instead of right like koolance had it set up originally.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Oh ok, A modified flow meter would explain that then.


----------



## Willi

guys, regarding these beautiful, incredibly loved fans, why not make a list with the name and qty needs of everyone interested and try a group purchase in bulk numbers (not their absurd MOQ, obviously).
There must be someone in this forum with inside-industry contacts that could file in a purchase order in the name of a server manufacturer or something like that. I've seen it done with car parts to reduce their prices by purchasing straight from the manufacturer, so why not try this here?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Oh hello, can I join this club please?

I probably have a hundred photos of the work I have done to my TJ07, and this is at least the 4th rebuild I have done into this old case. This SilverStone case was purchased shortly after the TJ07 was introduced, so it has been through a lot of work and several major moves. However, a few years ago I got serious with it and stripped it down to bare metal, sanded it, cut the heck out of it adding new cable routing areas, and last but not least took all the parts to a professional local motorcycle and auto powder coating facility. The radiator is the original ThermoChill PA120.3 and has always done a great job with one cpu and one vga card. The pump is a MCP655, with the stock top no less, which has always ran at its highest speed for 5 or 6 years now.

Anyway, I have decided to retire my old 5870, which has a TDP of 188 watts and replace it with a reference Radeon R9 290, which has a TDP of something like 300 watts I think. I understand that at idle the 290 will be perfectly fine on my loop (less heat?), however during load it will be as much as 112 watts higher in heat producing, I believe. My concern is that maybe I should retire my PA120.3 and get a 4 fan radiator to replace it? My current idle temps are fantastic for a 4ghz overclock which seem to be around the 30-34c mark. During high stress the cpu only hits in the 50c to low 60's, so the loop is working pretty good, not great, but much better than I had ever hoped a single loop could. Anyway, should I just test the new 290 on a full block, and if so which block should I use with my current hardware?

Any advice would be helpful in order to judge whether or not a new radiator is in order, or if my current hardware would continue to work fine, even with a 290. Would the Swiftech KOMODO-R9-LE waterblock for the 290 be OK? Maybe all I would need to do is simply replace the pumps top with a more efficient pumping design??? I am hoping to get some feedback that may steer me correctly before hand. I only want to drain this and take it apart once as to not risk harming its beauty. LOL









CPU = Swiftech Apogee GTZ
GPU = EK FC5870 Acetal+Copper
Res = XSPC Dual Bay "EyeBall"
Rad = ThermoChill PA120.3
Pump = Swiftech MCP655

How it looks as of today.






How it looked nearly stripped down before the last big rebuild.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> guys, regarding these beautiful, incredibly loved fans, why not make a list with the name and qty needs of everyone interested and try a group purchase in bulk numbers (not their absurd MOQ, obviously).
> There must be someone in this forum with inside-industry contacts that could file in a purchase order in the name of a server manufacturer or something like that. I've seen it done with car parts to reduce their prices by purchasing straight from the manufacturer, so why not try this here?


The last time a group buy was done here, it was pretty badly organized and left people unhappy. I doubt OCN will allow another here- doesn't mean you can't do it outside of this forum of course.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The last time a group buy was done here, it was pretty badly organized and left people unhappy. I doubt OCN will allow another here- doesn't mean you can't do it outside of this forum of course.


Ah well... I wish the forum would allow. This is the only place I trust the users enough to take part in something like that.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The last time a group buy was done here, it was pretty badly organized and left people unhappy. I doubt OCN will allow another here- doesn't mean you can't do it outside of this forum of course.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah well... I wish the forum would allow. This is the only place I trust the users enough to take part in something like that.
Click to expand...

Yeah, if you look at the thread it's easy to understand why that'll probably never happen again.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1008615/official-gentle-typhoon-2150-group-buy-thread/


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Thanks man!
> 
> On another note, I NEED HELP SOMEONE. Would anyone have any idea why two D5s wouldn't have enough muscle to push through my loop with enough flow for my koolance flow meter to read anything? Before, I had a D5 and two mcp350s, and they were able to make a reading on my flow meter. I replaced the two mcp350s with a new D5 and now the meter won't read any flow, even when I can see flow. Ideas?
> 
> My loop goes like this : res, pump, 240, 360, pump, 480, gpu, gpu, gpu, 120, cpu, 240, ram, res.


sorry if late. i have two d5s in my set up. i was having flow issues as well. turns out i had my CPU block assembled wrong







. i disassembled and turned the plate 90 deg. and boom. to much flow. at setting 3 and up, my pumps has too much flow and just sucks air bubble back into the line. i currently have both set to 2 and it seems to not suck the air bubbles back in. i also tried with one pump and the most i could go was setting 3 to get the air out of the lines. i don't know if this helps, but i thought i would share my experience. with two d5, you shouldn't have flow issues from what i have seen and read.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The last time a group buy was done here, it was pretty badly organized and left people unhappy. I doubt OCN will allow another here- doesn't mean you can't do it outside of this forum of course.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, if you look at the thread it's easy to understand why that'll probably never happen again.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1008615/official-gentle-typhoon-2150-group-buy-thread/


Yeah, that Group Buy was a total mess. I think the majority of people ended up getting their fans, myself included, but it took waaaay longer than it should have. Granted there was a natural disaster that caused some delays, but the entire thing was not handled in a very professional manner.

Plus Admin said OCN Sponsored group buys will never happen again.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I need to go w/ a PWM/Variable speed pump as I thin k I have too much flow w/ my MCP355


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know I need to go w/ a PWM/Variable speed pump as I thin k *I have too much flow* w/ my MCP355


No such thing.....


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's a good thing minus the fact I need to slow the flow down to allow proper cooling ( my 2 240's are only aid in cooling the CPU) unless I can find a full cover GPU block for my 270x to help slow it down a tad.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Just finished my build completely today, and here are some pictures!



















The last picture is quite bad. My Galaxy S II is not what it used to be.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's a good thing minus the fact *I need to slow the flow down to allow proper cooling* ( my 2 240's are only aid in cooling the CPU) unless I can find a full cover GPU block for my 270x to help slow it down a tad.


What are you talking about?

If 2 240's are not cooling your CPU then something is _very_ wrong and it sure as hell isnt too much flow.....

There is no such thing as too much flow,the returns diminish but never go backwards.


----------



## morencyam

FWIW, when I had a D5 Vario, I saw no temp difference between speed setting 2 and 5. And that was with CPU, Parallel GPU blocks, 240 rad and 480 rad.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Oh ok, A modified flow meter would explain that then.


Are you alluding to the fact that since I simply rotated or "modified" it, that there would be problems? The only way you can call it rotating is because normally the LCD screen is mounted on one side. All I did was mount it on the other side. It changes no functionality regarding the actual flow meter itself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> sorry if late. i have two d5s in my set up. i was having flow issues as well. turns out i had my CPU block assembled wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i disassembled and turned the plate 90 deg. and boom. to much flow. at setting 3 and up, my pumps has too much flow and just sucks air bubble back into the line. i currently have both set to 2 and it seems to not suck the air bubbles back in. i also tried with one pump and the most i could go was setting 3 to get the air out of the lines. i don't know if this helps, but i thought i would share my experience. with two d5, you shouldn't have flow issues from what i have seen and read.


Very interesting! I actually had to go back and look at pictures that I took while installing the jet plate to make sure it was correct. I do have to ask you something though, the block has special nobs on each corner so it holds the jet plate in place...how were you able to run the jet plate either way? you say you turned it 90 degrees, well one of those ways would have been super wrong according to the schematics of the block construction. I dont see how it would have even stayed in place.

Here are the pics I took way back when I had assembled the block with the 1mm jet plate, which was highly recommended by EK for a delidded processor:





As for the orientation of the copper fins going across to each port on the top, I am 99% sure it is correct. Every time I saw inside the block, I saw the fins. If it were installed incorrectly, that would have not been the case.

Unfortunately the only picture I have of being close to seeing inside the actual block is this one, which is super cropped and edited to see the lines of the fins. I know it looks weird, but I'm pretty sure those lines indicate the fins.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What are you talking about?
> 
> If 2 240's are not cooling your CPU then something is _very_ wrong and it sure as hell isnt too much flow.....
> 
> There is no such thing as too much flow,the returns diminish but never go backwards.


Well it's cooling well enough for what it's doing I just want better lol


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What are you talking about?
> 
> If 2 240's are not cooling your CPU then something is _very_ wrong and it sure as hell isnt too much flow.....
> 
> There is no such thing as too much flow,the returns diminish but never go backwards.


Yeah that don't seem right to me either. My 4.2ghz Xeon on a old Apogee GTZ sharing the loop with a full cover overclocked 5870 can run into the high teens at idle and barely reach 60C during full IBT or Prime95 stress. On average it is in the upper 20's to lower 30's during the warmest summer months and this is on a measly single PA120.3, with only 3 typhoon fans (it did even better with the pull fans mounted). During full folding the CPU only reaches about 50-54C (with some spikes to 60C) using all 6 cores. I would expect two 240's to blow my setup away.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Just finished my build completely today, and here are some pictures!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last picture is quite bad. My Galaxy S II is not what it used to be.


Quick change that could make your loop look a lot cleaner. Change the outlet of the gpu, so both tubings are on the upper part, that way no tubing goes down and up again, it should look at lot cleaner.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Just a random post

"Red Berry Ciroc"


"Simple Desk build"


----------



## badtaylorx

the green ram tube looks kinked from that angle


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> the green ram tube looks kinked from that angle


Yea only slightly if any since they are 1/2"ID 3/4"OD, pretty rigid.


----------



## Tunz

I got all the parts in for my first build. Just flushed the rads. It's going to be a long night.


----------



## VSG

I guess this isn't the best time to say this then but I just got 2 engineering samples from Hardware Labs and they are so clean inside and outside. The fins are absolutely perfect too. Not bad for a package all the way from the Philippines entrusted to good ol' FedEx. I bet I can throw them as is into a loop and have no gunk get introduced. If performance is as good as Will says, I am a Black Ice convert for good.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I guess this isn't the best time to say this then but I just got 2 engineering samples from Hardware Labs and they are so clean inside and outside. The fins are absolutely perfect too. Not bad for a package all the way from the Philippines entrusted to good ol' FedEx. I bet I can throw them as is into a loop and have no gunk get introduced. If performance is as good as Will says, I am a Black Ice convert for good.


I use the GTX360 radiator, would never change it for anything especially with those 4000RPM Delta's.


----------



## VSG

I am not going to run anything that fast, but a series of Noiseblocker eloops sound good for a test in the hotbox with these rads. Maybe I'll throw in the other rads and some SP120s in there as well.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope,there is no industrial D5 other than the Solar.
> 
> It looks like an E series maybe....


it's a d5. Probably I mean it fits d5tops. It's a spa pump 300msrp, I also have an ecocirc hooked up. I'll grab the part number in a bit after sons of anarchy.

My build is on hold those new bits power quick compressions destroyed my fingers. That damn primo chill let advanced being too thick is probably why. I basically was able to get 4 compressions done before I had to give up.

One compression is flat out defective. Won't come apart.


----------



## szeged

if i ever end up selling this monsta rads ill definitely be buying some black ice rads instead. Alphacool rads are just.....terrible.....just turribul.


Spoiler: Warning: Just Turrible.!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> it's a d5. Probably I mean it fits d5tops. It's a spa pump 300msrp, I also have an ecocirc hooked up. I'll grab the part number in a bit after sons of anarchy.
> 
> My build is on hold those new bits power quick compressions destroyed my fingers. That damn primo chill let advanced being too thick is probably why. I basically was able to get 4 compressions done before I had to give up.
> 
> One compression is flat out defective. Won't come apart.


Try to warm the LRT in hot water a bit that would make your life easier. Let's known about the pump, looks like the e-series Laing/xylem spa pump...


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am not going to run anything that fast, but a series of Noiseblocker eloops sound good for a test in the hotbox with these rads. Maybe I'll throw in the other rads and some SP120s in there as well.


Im diggin my new Nemisis GTX360 I won (and a swiftech cpu block) from PPC's. Runnin 6 NB Eloop PWM's on it.











@ SZEGED what dont you like about the monsta's?

ahhh SOA I almost forgot thank god I set the DVR, Thanx for the reminder


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im diggin my new Nemisis GTX360 I won (and a swiftech cpu block) from PPC's. Runnin 6 NB Eloop PWM's on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ SZEGED what dont you like about the monsta's?
> 
> ahhh SOA I almost forgot thank god I set the DVR, Thanx for the reminder


they are dirtier than my browser history.

Ive flushed them a trillion times, very very thoroughly and yet they still kill the PH level in my loop.


----------



## sdmf74

I never noticed mine being dirty but I never had a res until I redid my loop and had rinsed it thoroughly by then


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> so much flow the res is making cracking sounds through the aquapipe.. I was testing for pump top fit
> The noise in the res is louder than pump lol
> 
> 
> 
> What pump is that? A D5 on steroids? I don't think I've seen one like that before.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Industrial vario of the D5 IIRC
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nope,there is no industrial D5 other than the Solar.
> 
> It looks like an E series maybe....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> it's a d5. Probably I mean it fits d5tops. It's a spa pump 300msrp, I also have an ecocirc hooked up. I'll grab the part number in a bit after sons of anarchy.
> 
> My build is on hold those new bits power quick compressions destroyed my fingers. That damn primo chill let advanced being too thick is probably why. I basically was able to get 4 compressions done before I had to give up.
> 
> One compression is flat out defective. Won't come apart.
Click to expand...

Looks like B Neg is right. Doesn't look like any D5 on Laing's site, but does look like one of their E-series. Wouldn't surprise me if they both fit the same top as the plastic tops they make for both look identical on the outside. Does yours use household current or 12V? Looks like the E5 uses 115 or 230 volts (actually their spec sheet says 1115V or 230V but I'm sure the extra 1 in 1115 is a typo)

http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2013/01/SS-05R1_E5-Plastics.pdf (PDF)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Like I said I will get part number in a while to be specific. I think it's an e3 something. It has a long number. And it's not a plastic topped pump it's the brass 1/2" the ecocirc is but not this monster

and yes it plugs into the wall. I am not posting specifics till I can grab the exact figures. It's got some wild stats. All I remember ,forsure ,is the guy who sold it said it was a spa pump that goes for 300 on ebay.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> So what are supposedly the best thick 480s out right now?


Just wanted to add that Mayhems are producing a new series of radiators that look to be very promising and I for one am looking forward to some reviews on just how well they compare.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I will rant about mayhem 480 radiators.

P.s. I didn't pay close to 300 for the pump.

 other pump


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I guess this isn't the best time to say this then but I just got 2 engineering samples from Hardware Labs and they are so clean inside and outside. The fins are absolutely perfect too. Not bad for a package all the way from the Philippines entrusted to good ol' FedEx. I bet I can throw them as is into a loop and have no gunk get introduced. If performance is as good as Will says, I am a Black Ice convert for good.


Interested in your results. Still putting together my Rig, and was gifted 2x UT60 480 Rads (from a friends build he never ended up using). But have trying to decide if i want to keep them, or Get 2x Nemsis GTX's or even XPSC RX V3 Rads.

Will be running in Push/Pull with low RPMS, so will be interesting to see how the higher FPI work on these HWLabs. Have heard a lot of good things about them


----------



## nismoskyline

A quick question, a V3 XSPC 360mm rad with push pull fans of about ~2200 rpm should be able to produce 350~400 watts of cooling? or more? also would increasing fan speed above 2200 rpm help?
linky to rad
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22717/ex-rad-676/XSPC_RX360_Triple_120mm_Radiator_V3_-_Matte_Black_.html

thanks


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinji2k*
> 
> I've always wanted to build my own blocks so I started working on a cpu block prototype. It's basically a cross between the Supreme LTX and an Apogee XL. I only have a manual mill so I can't do anything too fancy and a crossflow design is the most feasible. I also plan on making a matching universal gpu block.
> 
> http://picturepush.com/public/14346014
> 
> http://picturepush.com/public/14346013
> 
> I'm still have to buy a 3/32" end mill for the 2mm o-ring cord I bought. The base is aluminum for now since I'm just prototyping, copper is expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The channels are 0.5mm/0.02in, I tried using a 0.01in slitting saw but my homemade arbor wasn't rigid enough.
> 
> So what do you all think? Any suggestions?


I'm impressed with your ingenuity and resourcefulness. When you're done, I'd love to see a polished version of that block. Keep up the good work, and if you do take it to the next level and create more blocks, I would encourage you to create a new thread dedicated to the creation of home made water blocks.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I guess this isn't the best time to say this then but I just got 2 engineering samples from Hardware Labs and they are so clean inside and outside. The fins are absolutely perfect too. Not bad for a package all the way from the Philippines entrusted to good ol' FedEx. I bet I can throw them as is into a loop and have no gunk get introduced. If performance is as good as Will says, I am a Black Ice convert for good.


Awesome news. The SR1s are still my favorite. So I'll be looking forward to seeing some more from you on this man.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Are you alluding to the fact that since I simply rotated or "modified" it, that there would be problems? The only way you can call it rotating is because normally the LCD screen is mounted on one side. All I did was mount it on the other side. It changes no functionality regarding the actual flow meter itself.


No, it just explains why it looks as if it's running backwards. That's all.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Awesome news. The SR1s are still my favorite. So I'll be looking forward to seeing some more from you on this man.


You and me both! The SR 2 rads are coming out soon too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Interested in your results. Still putting together my Rig, and was gifted 2x UT60 480 Rads (from a friends build he never ended up using). But have trying to decide if i want to keep them, or Get 2x Nemsis GTX's or even XPSC RX V3 Rads.
> 
> Will be running in Push/Pull with low RPMS, so will be interesting to see how the higher FPI work on these HWLabs. Have heard a lot of good things about them


If you already have dual 480 UT60s for free, I wouldn't bother getting more at a "loss" to be honest.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Are you alluding to the fact that since I simply rotated or "modified" it, that there would be problems? The only way you can call it rotating is because normally the LCD screen is mounted on one side. All I did was mount it on the other side. It changes no functionality regarding the actual flow meter itself.
> 
> 
> Very interesting! I actually had to go back and look at pictures that I took while installing the jet plate to make sure it was correct. I do have to ask you something though, the block has special nobs on each corner so it holds the jet plate in place...how were you able to run the jet plate either way? you say you turned it 90 degrees, well one of those ways would have been super wrong according to the schematics of the block construction. I dont see how it would have even stayed in place.
> 
> Here are the pics I took way back when I had assembled the block with the 1mm jet plate, which was highly recommended by EK for a delidded processor:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the orientation of the copper fins going across to each port on the top, I am 99% sure it is correct. Every time I saw inside the block, I saw the fins. If it were installed incorrectly, that would have not been the case.
> 
> Unfortunately the only picture I have of being close to seeing inside the actual block is this one, which is super cropped and edited to see the lines of the fins. I know it looks weird, but I'm pretty sure those lines indicate the fins.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


sorry for the confusion. i should have said base plate. i had my channels turned 90 degrees. the jet plate was fine, but the copper plate was rotated 90 deg. (thanks for making me repeat my "bonk" moment







). fluid still flowed, but was very very restricted. never leaked like that. once i fixed it, water flowed like a garden hose. i have the two D5's on setting two as i don't see any benifits any higher, only more noise(not that the more noise is that bad), and more time to bleed the air. i am positive that on setting five, i would never be able to bleed all the air out as it just sucks so much of it back into the pump.


----------



## VSG

Took a few shots of the Nemesis rads before they go into the hotbox:













Here's also a terrible video going through both of those rads stacked one behind the other:


----------



## Newtocooling

Wow those look like nice rads, I really like the finish on them!


----------



## sinnedone

shhh... people dont like the wrinkle around these here parts.









Nice shots geggeg, cant wait to see how they perform.


----------



## morencyam

That video looks like some kind of trippy kaleidoscope lol


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That video looks like some kind of trippy kaleidoscope lol


It took me a min to re-adjust my eyes to non-macro vision after that so I can see where you are coming from. I have another slightly longer and more trippy video of the same process which would make nice torture material.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You and me both! The SR 2 rads are coming out soon too.
> If you already have dual 480 UT60s for free, I wouldn't bother getting more at a "loss" to be honest.


Ehh buying new ones dont bother me, Price isnt an issue. I can just sell the UT60's if i really need to, or hold on to them for another build. But if the XSPC RX480 V3 or the HWLabs GTX is a better Rad, then no reason not to spend the money and get the better rad for low RPMs.

What would be the difference between the SR2 and GTX Nemesis? Would it just be FPI?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Ehh buying new ones dont bother me, Price isnt an issue. I can just sell the UT60's if i really need to, or hold on to them for another build. But if the XSPC RX480 V3 or the HWLabs GTX is a better Rad, then no reason not to spend the money and get the better rad for low RPMs.
> 
> What would be the difference between the SR2 and GTX Nemesis? Would it just be FPI?


SR 2 is more coolant flow optimized, that's pretty much all I got so far from him. They are undergoing testing at the moment. It is a bit weird this time around since the GTX was unapologetic about being performance oriented with high FPI and scale up with fan speed/CFM while the SR 1 was on the other end of the spectrum keeping noise a priority. Now the Nemesis GTS seems to do both well enough for reviewers and resellers alike while being thin enough to accommodate most builds.

SR 2 will have the supercruise optimized core as well and actually it is up on their website if you know where to look


----------



## MicroiD

thats wicked dude!


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> SR 2 is more coolant flow optimized, that's pretty much all I got so far from him. They are undergoing testing at the moment. It is a bit weird this time around since the GTX was unapologetic about being performance oriented with high FPI and scale up with fan speed/CFM while the SR 1 was on the other end of the spectrum keeping noise a priority. Now the Nemesis GTS seems to do both well enough for reviewers and resellers alike while being thin enough to accommodate most builds.
> 
> SR 2 will have the supercruise optimized core as well and actually it is up on their website if you know where to look


Yup looking at the website now.

all the SR2 Products

SR2 480 Details

Looking at that SR2 details, I think im going to install the UT60 for now, and then see how the SR2 stacks up against the GTX, UT60, and RX V3.

And of course see what you get for results as well


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Can someone tell me if the PA120.3 is still considered top of the line radiator, or has the latest radiator designs improved considerably? Is there any difference between a 2014 radiator, and my old 2007 ThermoChill PA120.3?

Also, what is the best or recommended replacement top for an original MCP655? Going to add a 290 to the same loop and want to help it deal with the extra 100 watts or so. Thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Yup looking at the website now.
> 
> all the SR2 Products
> 
> SR2 480 Details
> 
> Looking at that SR2 details, I think im going to install the UT60 for now, and then see how the SR2 stacks up against the GTX, UT60, and RX V3.
> 
> And of course see what you get for results as well


I alerted Will to those stray links 2 days ago, he must have taken them down for a reason. Oh well, nothing on the internet is gone forever.


----------



## CaliLife17

if its against OCN policy, i can go ahead and remove them. Just found them doing a quick google search.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Can someone tell me if the PA120.3 is still considered top of the line radiator, or has the latest radiator designs improved considerably? Is there any difference between a 2014 radiator, and my old 2007 ThermoChill PA120.3?
> 
> Also, what is the best or recommended replacement top for an original MCP655? Going to add a 290 to the same loop and want to help it deal with the extra 100 watts or so. Thanks


I think the PA radiators are probably right up towards the top still. I don't think they've really been tested against the newer rads, but I assume that's because they are no longer made. I have a PA120.4 and have no intention of replacing it.

Bundymania included the TA120.3 in his 360mm radiator roundup, but I'm not sure if there is any difference between the PA and TA radiators other than the fittings ports being different sizes.

I would add another radiator before replacing that one though. You'd see more of a performance gain from adding more radiator space than changing from one 360mm radiator to another

As for top, I _think_ the EK X-top is the best performing aftermarket top. I know the Bitspower top actually performs worse than the stock top


----------



## LiquidHaus

That SR2 info is tempting. But I'll need to see some goood comparisons versus the SR1 to justify ditching them. I'm attached to these things


----------



## morencyam

I love my GTX 480. I contemplated ditching my PA120.4 after getting the GTX used for a great price and seeing how high quality it was. Then I thought about replacing them both with the new Nemesis GTX 480's, but I can't bring myself to get rid of the PA120.4. It's been with me since my first dip into watercooling. We've been through a lot together.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think the PA radiators are probably right up towards the top still. I don't think they've really been tested against the newer rads, but I assume that's because they are no longer made. I have a PA120.4 and have no intention of replacing it.
> 
> Bundymania included the TA120.3 in his 360mm radiator roundup, but I'm not sure if there is any difference between the PA and TA radiators other than the fittings ports being different sizes.
> 
> I would add another radiator before replacing that one though. You'd see more of a performance gain from adding more radiator space than changing from one 360mm radiator to another
> 
> As for top, I _think_ the EK X-top is the best performing aftermarket top. I know the Bitspower top actually performs worse than the stock top


Ok wow, thanks for the information. After I built my last water cooling loop, I never really seen the need to keep up with all the tech much. I just figured if I bought the absolute best at the time, that it may stay the best for a while or until it starts to rust away, lol. Considering I always use a high amount of corrosion inhibitors (pre-made fluids), I assume its nice a clean in the rad still. My current temps are as good as I will ever need, but adding a 290 in place of the 5870 may add more heat to the system during graphics/compute loads. So I am concerned.

Maybe all I need is a better top, and to re-add some pull fans on the back side (if I can fit them lol) of the rad to handle any extra possible heat. Thanks again for the info.


----------



## xxroxx

Guys, is it OK to cool a 4770k and a 780ti with one 240x45mm rad? I'm planning a "steambox" build that can only fit that and since I'm making my own gpu waterblock, I'd like to, you know, use it.
No push pull, but I don't care about speeding up the fans to 2000+ rpm while gaming - headset gamer here. Also, both would be mildly overclocked.

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxroxx*
> 
> Guys, is it OK to cool a 4770k and a 780ti with one 240x45mm rad? I'm planning a "steambox" build that can only fit that and since I'm making my own gpu waterblock, I'd like to, you know, use it.
> No push pull, but I don't care about speeding up the fans to 2000+ rpm while gaming - headset gamer here. Also, both would be mildly overclocked.
> 
> Thanks!


What are the ambient temperatures that the system will be running in? What fans do you plan on using? What pump are you planning to use and what kind of airflow does the case provide?


----------



## xxroxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What are the ambient temperatures that the system will be running in? What fans do you plan on using? What pump are you planning to use and what kind of airflow does the case provide?


Winter it goes down to ~11ºC and summer gets as hot as 32ºC, but generally we're talking 21ºC~26°C. For fans... Not sure. I have corsair's h100i ones but will probably sell them. So if you can recommend me ones, that'd be great too








Pump will be either swiftech's apogee cpu block + pump or some other, if I manage to fit one in the build. As for airflow, I'm going for a steambox expanded airflow style. PSU will pull air from the bottom and exhaust from the side, without intervening with the case. Radiators will exhaust, I think, so they do not heat the inside of the case (4770k + 780ti would get at least some warm air out of said rad)... Although since it won't have any kind of "forced" airflow inside the case, could it be bad to have the rads exhausting? Hm... Sorry, I still have lots of doubts









Thanks for the help!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxroxx*
> 
> Winter it goes down to ~11ºC and summer gets as hot as 32ºC, but generally we're talking 21ºC~26°C. For fans... Not sure. I have corsair's h100i ones but will probably sell them. So if you can recommend me ones, that'd be great too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump will be either swiftech's apogee cpu block + pump or some other, if I manage to fit one in the build. As for airflow, I'm going for a steambox expanded airflow style. PSU will pull air from the bottom and exhaust from the side, without intervening with the case. Radiators will exhaust, I think, so they do not heat the inside of the case (4770k + 780ti would get at least some warm air out of said rad)... Although since it won't have any kind of "forced" airflow inside the case, could it be bad to have the rads exhausting? Hm... Sorry, I still have lots of doubts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!


That could work, but I would suggest that you try placing the fans in different positions on the radiator to determine what gets you the best thermal performance. If you're not heavily overclocking these components you could get away with it.


----------



## xxroxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That could work, but I would suggest that you try placing the fans in different positions on the radiator to determine what gets you the best thermal performance. If you're not heavily overclocking these components you could get away with it.


Sure. Since you're a swiftech rep., could answer me if there's anyway a brazilian person could get a h220 kit (the one with the pump+cpu block, expandable, etc.)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxroxx*
> 
> Sure. Since you're a swiftech rep., could answer me if there's anyway a brazilian person could get a h220 kit (the one with the pump+cpu block, expandable, etc.)


I don't know about the H220, but you can purchase an H220X directly from our website. They should be back in stock tomorrow in fact.


----------



## xxroxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't know about the H220, but you can purchase an H220X directly from our website. They should be back in stock tomorrow in fact.


Yeah... The pump positioning on that one doesn't do it for me









Thanks!


----------



## cennis

Any one have experience using 120mm rans on dual 180mm rads?

I have plenty of 120mm fans, i was thinking 6 of the in a 3x2 arrangement will fit length wise, and maybe funnel? Any better way?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm thinking of going with the apogee drive II on my lil ms mischief build since I plan to have that elite 130 under water


----------



## tatmMRKIV

My nemesis got some fine damage from the damn box design. For whatever reason there are 2 pieces of cardboard on the inside of the top of my box that just completely ruined my day.


----------



## VSG

I saw those too, it was completely fine in my case but I ended up scratching the paint off a couple of fins myself anyway









You can either bend them back or leave them as-is, unless a big group is all bent up they aren't going to do much.


----------



## failwheeldrive

The fins on both of mine were flawless (at least until I scratched a couple on one of them by accident during flushing lol) but the paint was in really bad shape on one. The packaging they use is garbage, especially for such an expensive rad. No padding, bubble wrap or foam, just cardboard.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Yup looking at the website now.
> 
> all the SR2 Products
> 
> SR2 480 Details
> 
> Looking at that SR2 details, I think im going to install the UT60 for now, and then see how the SR2 stacks up against the GTX, UT60, and RX V3.
> 
> And of course see what you get for results as well


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> That SR2 info is tempting. But I'll need to see some goood comparisons versus the SR1 to justify ditching them. I'm attached to these things


THIS^


----------



## JLMS2010

I was thinking of SR1's for my mini itx build. 2x 240mm. I was also thinking a out the EK PE series. Fans will be noiseblockers or I may try the enermax twister pressure fans...haven't decided.
Thoughts?? Cooling 1 780 Ti and 4790k


----------



## slick2500

Swiftech Apogee GTX waterblock
Swiftech MCR220-QP Radiator
Swiftech MCP-655-B Pump
Cpu @ 4.8Ghz idle temp is 19*


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Swiftech Apogee GTX waterblock
> Swiftech MCR220-QP Radiator
> Swiftech MCP-655-B Pump
> Cpu @ 4.8Ghz idle temp is 19*


It that the aluminum version of the GTX?


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It that the aluminum version of the GTX?


Yup rockin it old school lol. I've had that block in 3 different systems now and have not had any issues with corrosion.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Swiftech Apogee GTX waterblock
> Swiftech MCR220-QP Radiator
> Swiftech MCP-655-B Pump
> Cpu @ 4.8Ghz idle temp is 19*


I like the oldschool rig. Very nice!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Aluminum? The actually made an aluminum version of a cpu waterblock? lol that sounds like they were itching for support tech calls.


----------



## failwheeldrive

There are a ton of old water cooling components made of aluminum instead of copper. Swiftech made aluminum rads too.


----------



## slick2500

The housing is CNC machined out of billet aluminum and receives two plating's for a lifetime protection against corrosion: electroless nickel plating (MIL-C-26074E grade B) and Zinc Cobalt plating (ASTM B 840-99 grade 6). The bottom of the block is copper. They did make a copper top for the block at one point.


----------



## Dizzmal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> Is it weird to mix red accents with lime green coolant? Please, share your opinions.


I like mixing different color schemes, but it all seems to depend on the person. This is mine:



Some people like it, others don't. I am thinking about trying to Mayham's red Pastel coloring next.


----------



## tecuarenta

I finally like it as well. This potato photo does not make any justice...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxroxx*
> 
> Guys, is it OK to cool a 4770k and a 780ti with one 240x45mm rad? I'm planning a "steambox" build that can only fit that and since I'm making my own gpu waterblock, I'd like to, you know, use it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxroxx*
> 
> Sure. Since you're a swiftech rep., could answer me if there's anyway a brazilian person could get a h220 kit (the one with the pump+cpu block, expandable, etc.)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't know about the H220, but you can purchase an H220X directly from our website. They should be back in stock tomorrow in fact.


Has the warranty situation changed with a H220, GTX780Ti and ST45SF-G?


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> I finally like it as well. This potato photo does not make any justice...


I'll tell you the same thing I tell people that ask how their car looks. It's yours!







If YOU like it, then do it, you're going to be the one sitting next to and looking at it all day anyway


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> My nemesis got some fine damage from the damn box design


I thought I was in the vape thread for a second.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I like the oldschool rig. Very nice!


Haha no surprise there!









Hey if the expected release date of SR-2 line was posted I missed it. Bueller?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> My nemesis got some fine damage from the damn box design. For whatever reason there are 2 pieces of cardboard on the inside of the top of my box that just completely ruined my day.


If I bought an HWLabs and it came damaged it would go back. You are paying a premium so you should get what you pay for.


----------



## snef

received some goodies this morning


----------



## derickwm

For Aldri


----------



## snef

WOWWWW!!!


----------



## Ramzinho

i wont quote you derickwm..

But


----------



## BradleyW

Hell Fire! Look at those!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So we is taking pics of EK stuff neh?











Next time I will get the duster out.....


----------



## morencyam

Very nice pics B. I really need to get myself at least a halfway decent camera


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Swiftech Apogee GTX waterblock
> Swiftech MCR220-QP Radiator
> Swiftech MCP-655-B Pump
> Cpu @ 4.8Ghz idle temp is 19*


Quick question, what is going on with the heat spreaders on the RAM? Those look pretty cool. I thought they were the koolance ram waterblocks but noticed that there was no outlet at the top


----------



## TheCautiousOne




----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Very nice pics B. I really need to get myself at least a halfway decent camera


Agree,
you and me both brota'!
Every time I see pictures like this, my valet is itching!
I got a good offer for a canon EOS 700D, 400$~ but it was only the camera and the battery,, no lens cover, bag, charger, manual.. so figured it was stolen, so had to pass









Would this camera be a good choice for an amateur like myself?


----------



## VSG

Or the owner just threw the retail box? A body won't come with a bag or a lens cover (unless you meant body cap?). Charger is the only thing I would want from that lot as the manual is easily available online. Warranty is for the 1st owner anyway..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Very nice pics B. I really need to get myself at least a halfway decent camera
> 
> 
> 
> Agree,
> you and me both brota'!
> Every time I see pictures like this, my valet is itching!
> I got a good offer for a canon EOS 700D, 400$~ but it was only the camera and the battery,, no lens cover, bag, charger, manual.. so figured it was stolen, so had to pass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would this camera be a good choice for an amateur like myself?
Click to expand...

If its any help,mine is a an old Canon 350d.......lights>camera all day long.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

How strong are the D5-pumps really?

I have been using 2x Swiftech MCP655's in the XSPC 5 1/4" Bay for 2x D5 running in serial I guess, these was pushing through 1x MO-RA3 420, 2x AC Monsta 480, 2x EK-XTX240s, 2x EK-RAM blocks, 4x R9 290X blocks, 9x 90 degree fittings, mosfet and chipset blocks together with the EK-Supremacy and 2x QD3's. The flow seemed to be good. I ran them at "4" manual.

My system will consist of this now: 2x MO-RA3 420, 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140, 2x EK-RAM blocks, 4x R9 290X blocks, 9x 90 degree fittings, mosfet and chipset blocks together with the EK-Supremacy and 6x QD3's. I wondered if I might add a reservoir on 200 litres to the rest of the system and wonder if I have a problem then, it is a reservoir from an old water heater. Ambient is 16-18 C in the room at autumn, it will dip down to 10C in the winter and I will benefit from the big reservoir. I have a third D5 if that would help, or else I would have to find a better and stronger pump.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its any help,mine is a an old Canon 350d.......lights>camera all day long.


Look who's walking the walk *and* talking the talk nowadays!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Or the owner just threw the retail box? A body won't come with a bag or a lens cover (unless you meant body cap?). Charger is the only thing I would want from that lot as the manual is easily available online. Warranty is for the 1st owner anyway..


I have a little Sony Cybershot P&S somewhere that I was gifted. I need to find that and see how good of pictures that takes. Better than my phone, I'm sure. Only came with the battery though so I need to find a cheap charger online
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its any help,mine is a an old Canon 350d.......lights>camera all day long.


That is reassuring. I'm not about to drop a boat load of cash on a camera that I will rarely use.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I love my good ol' Canon 450D


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its any help,mine is a an old Canon 350d.......lights>camera all day long.


Indeed.

Lighting > Composition > Lens > Camera


----------



## derickwm

I need to invest in some lighting asap. I've got two glaring windows and an awful yellow light. Finally have the space for a mini studio, now to furnish it.


----------



## bond32

Then I asked myself, "self why am I still using a case?"

Then it started. On-going project...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I need to invest in some lighting asap. I've got two glaring windows and an awful yellow light. Finally have the space for a mini studio, now to furnish it.


I went with a pop up light box and I wish i had just gone with some softboxes instead......

Still,im getting better pics now I understand my camera better.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> light>camera all day long.


Yup. Taken with a Note 3 on auto, no editing.


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Quick question, what is going on with the heat spreaders on the RAM? Those look pretty cool. I thought they were the koolance ram waterblocks but noticed that there was no outlet at the top


Those are the stock heat spreaders on my Team Dark Series ram.


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Indeed.
> 
> Lighting > Composition > Lens > Camera


Yep. Any day for sure.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Then I asked myself, "self why am I still using a case?"
> 
> Then it started. On-going project...


My old roommate had a shelf rig like that in his dorm. Also had ps2, ps3, xbox360, wii, gamecube, and surround sound receiver. We called it the tower of power


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If I bought an HWLabs and it came damaged it would go back. You are paying a premium so you should get what you pay for.


Problem is the replacement will be damaged too lol. I went through that already, and all it does is delay my builds. The only solution would be HWL fixing their pathetic packaging.

Edit: just to clarify, I've owned numerous Black Ice rads (a couple nemesis GTX, an sr1, and two GTXs) and every single one has had some level of paint damage. The GTX series is the easiest to fix since you can probably polish it out, but it's impossible to fix paint damage on the sr1 and nemesis rads. I've just learned to live with it at this point.


----------



## szeged

performance pcs finally sending me a replacement ek d5 pump top and they decided to use the slowest shipping possible.

so what should have been overnight reception of a new pump top from them, will take about 10 days total.

awesome. last time i pay for overnight shipping lolol.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Problem is the replacement will be damaged too lol. I went through that already, and all it does is delay my builds. The only solution would be HWL fixing their pathetic packaging.


Like lowfat said,when you pay that much for a radiator, you'd expect a thin sheet of foam at the very least. I bought mine used and it came with better packaging than if I had bought it new


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Like lowfat said,when you pay that much for a radiator, you'd expect a thin sheet of foam at the very least. I bought mine used and it came with better packaging than if I had bought it new


I agree 100%, I've even sent pictures of the damage directly to the manufacturer asking them to fix their packaging. Until they do chances are your brand new $100+ rad will be delivered with jacked up paint.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I agree 100%, I've even sent pictures of the damage directly to the manufacturer asking them to fix their packaging. Until they do chances are your brand new $100+ rad will be delivered with jacked up paint.


all of my alphacool rads came with scratched paint and bent fins lol. they were brand new.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Problem is the replacement will be damaged too lol. I went through that already, and all it does is delay my builds. The only solution would be HWL fixing their pathetic packaging.
> 
> Edit: just to clarify, I've owned numerous Black Ice rads (a couple nemesis GTX, an sr1, and two GTXs) and every single one has had some level of paint damage. The GTX series is the easiest to fix since you can probably polish it out, but it's impossible to fix paint damage on the sr1 and nemesis rads. I've just learned to live with it at this point.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Like lowfat said,when you pay that much for a radiator, you'd expect a thin sheet of foam at the very least. I bought mine used and it came with better packaging than if I had bought it new


I checked both my boxes. The 480 GTS had the two cardboard cutouts aforementioned that could potentially bend/scratch paint off the fins. The 560 GTX had nothing in the box that could damage it. I guess I didn't think about this a lot since both of mine arrived in perfect shape from half way across the world. But seeing you guys have issues when purchased from resellers has me confused- I tried to see if this could happen by picking up the box in the middle and putting it on top of others (to simulate resellers and warehouses) but nothing. To be fair I was gentle (for obvious reasons) but there is definitely scope for improved packaging.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> all of my alphacool rads came with scratched paint and bent fins lol. they were brand new.


lol well that's kind of expected, those rads are dirt cheap (although their packaging _is_ better than HWL's)


----------



## szeged

one of these days ill custom paint the rads, glad the fans cover up the bent fins though, i was gonna send them back but they didnt leak so wutevzzz


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I checked both my boxes. The 480 GTS had the two cardboard cutouts aforementioned that could potentially bend/scratch paint off the fins. The 560 GTX had nothing in the box that could damage it. I guess I didn't think about this a lot since both of mine arrived in perfect shape from half way across the world. But seeing you guys have issues when purchased from resellers has me confused- I tried to see if this could happen by picking up the box in the middle and putting it on top of others (to simulate resellers and warehouses) but nothing. To be fair I was gentle (for obvious reasons) but there is definitely scope for improved packaging.


If you're curious about the nemesis 360gtx packaging I can take pics and share them here. It's kind of hilarious how much black paint was scraped off the rad and deposited on the box lol.


----------



## timerwin63

Has anyone heard of Alpenfohn fans? If so, are they any good for radiators? Ran across them the other day, and I gotta say, they're damn sexy... Link to fans.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Has anyone heard of Alpenfohn fans? If so, are they any good for radiators? Ran across them the other day, and I gotta say, they're damn sexy... Link to fans.


yes, they are beast.


----------



## VSG

Heard only good things from guys in Europe. I contacted them about possible US retailer options and I was told "soon".


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yes, they are beast.


Where would one go about acquiring them in the US?

Edit: Saw this just after I posted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Heard only good things from guys in Europe. I contacted them about possible US retailer options and I was told "soon".


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Problem is the replacement will be damaged too lol. I went through that already, and all it does is delay my builds. The only solution would be HWL fixing their pathetic packaging.
> 
> Edit: just to clarify, I've owned numerous Black Ice rads (a couple nemesis GTX, an sr1, and two GTXs) and every single one has had some level of paint damage. The GTX series is the easiest to fix since you can probably polish it out, but it's impossible to fix paint damage on the sr1 and nemesis rads. I've just learned to live with it at this point.


O I expect paint damage. Easy to paint a radiator though. Near impossible to fix a bent fin perfectly.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Has anyone heard of Alpenfohn fans? If so, are they any good for radiators? Ran across them the other day, and I gotta say, they're damn sexy... Link to fans.


I know @B NEGATIVE has used them in at least one build that I know of and had said good things. Those orange ones are gorgeous


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> O I expect paint damage. Easy to paint a radiator though. Near impossible to fix a bent fin perfectly.


That's true. It would be pretty rough to paint the Nemesis rads though... not impossible, it would just take a TON of sanding to get a smooth finish.


----------



## szeged

the nemesis rads should have come with a smooth finish in the first place imo.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the nemesis rads should have come with a smooth finish in the first place imo.


Yeah I kinda wish I had known about the European version before ordering from PPC's. I dig matte black.


----------



## lowfat

If I were to buy a Nemesis it would be the EK/Euro version w/ the matte finish.

Got my FCPU order today and I am pleased to say the rads fit. 5x180mm ~= to 10x120mm in frontal surface area.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the nemesis rads should have come with a smooth finish in the first place imo.


agreed the finish they are using turned me off to them.


----------



## szeged

what is this "euro" version of the nemesis you guys speak of? i havent been keeping up with radiator news much.


----------



## JLMS2010

I may actually try the new EK 280 PE series next. Just need a good, quiet 140mm fan. Lol


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If I were to buy a Nemesis it would be the EK/Euro version w/ the matte finish.
> 
> Got my FCPU order today and I am pleased to say the rads fit. 5x180mm ~= to 10x120mm in frontal surface area.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy balls that thing is huge
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> what is this "euro" version of the nemesis you guys speak of? i havent been keeping up with radiator news much.


European version is matte black instead of the whacked out spacey finish lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Holy balls that thing is huge
> European version is matte black instead of the whacked out spacey finish lol


nice, got a link to where i can find a euro version?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Specialtech has them, not sure about other etailers though

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Hardware-Labs-Black-Ice-Nemesis-GT-Xtreme-360mm-Triple-Radiator--GTX360-pid-24239.html


----------



## szeged

looks nice but i guess just sanding down the normal version wouldnt be too awful if done right.


----------



## VSG

Oh you guys, I was in your shoes as well till I saw these in person. Still a personal thing but I now like it myself.


----------



## szeged

thinking about buying some to replace my monstas so maybe ill be a believer soon also.


----------



## CaliLife17

Does Special tech ship international?


----------



## iBored

H
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh you guys, I was in your shoes as well till I saw these in person. Still a personal thing but I now like it myself.


How's the performance?
I'm wondering if they'd do any better than my Sr1's


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> lol well that's kind of expected, those rads are dirt cheap (although their packaging _is_ better than HWL's)


Cheap? Maybe to rich people. I paid about the same for a full size truck radiator as I did for a 360 monsta. FTW! I'm in the wrong line of business lol.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Heard only good things from guys in Europe. I contacted them about possible US retailer options and I was told "soon".


Awesome! I originally wanted these fans but opted for eloops because of this. Great looking fans!

Oops dp


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> H
> How's the performance?
> I'm wondering if they'd do any better than my Sr1's


Just got these, I will test them out soon.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Cheap? Maybe to rich people. I paid about the same for a full size truck radiator as I did for a 360 monsta. FTW! I'm in the wrong line of business lol.


lol didn't mean to come off like that, I'm super poor at the moment







. They're just cheap compared to HWL.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> lol didn't mean to come off like that, I'm super poor at the moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They're just cheap compared to HWL.


I knew what you meant bud. Just picking


----------



## gdubc

If the Alpenfohns are a must have you can get them from Overclockers.uk but I would call them and try to work out a better deal than what the website will show, because they charge ridic. shipping to U.S. Otherwise, Specialtech is supposed to get some of the new stock eventually (although the sales rep told me they would be in maybe in May and I'm still waiting...)their shipping rates are a little better.

I got the orange 140mm and yep, they are gorgeous!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If the Alpenfohns are a must have you can get them from Overclockers.uk but I would call them and try to work out a better deal than what the website will show, because they charge ridic. shipping to U.S. Otherwise, Specialtech is supposed to get some of the new stock eventually (although the sales rep told me they would be in maybe in May and I'm still waiting...)their shipping rates are a little better.
> 
> I got the orange 140mm and yep, they are gorgeous!


Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to go look.


----------



## kidcapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Where would one go about acquiring them in the US?
> 
> Edit: Saw this just after I posted.


I ordered mine from Overclockers UK and received the fans in 2 - 3 days http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-019-AL&groupid=701&catid=2331&subcat=4


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Does Special tech ship international?


it does and very good service I might add from my previous experience.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> lol didn't mean to come off like that, I'm super poor at the moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They're just cheap compared to HWL.


Yeah normally. But you guys should known FZCPU is selling HWlabs rads for a while now with a super discount. I pay for my sr1 560 mm around 120 bucks...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10466/ex-rad-183/Black_Ice_SR1_Low_Air_Flow_Optimized_-_560_Radiator_-_Black.html?id=3gcnTxex&mv_pc=625


----------



## Gabrielzm

edit - sorry for the double post. Please @B NEGATIVE delete this one.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

See you guys later


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it does and very good service I might add from my previous experience.
> Yeah normally. But you guys should known FZCPU is selling HWlabs rads for a while now with a super discount. I pay for my sr1 560 mm around 120 bucks...
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10466/ex-rad-183/Black_Ice_SR1_Low_Air_Flow_Optimized_-_560_Radiator_-_Black.html?id=3gcnTxex&mv_pc=625


Seems they're clearing stock for the new sr2. Unfortunately they don't have any 480mm sr1s in stock... I need a new 480 for my TJ07.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Seems they're clearing stock for the new sr2. Unfortunately they don't have any 480mm sr1s in stock... I need a new 480 for my TJ07.


Its been going for 2 months now +- this clearance sale on all HWlabs gear. I went with the xspc 480 mm rx v3 and a 240mm for the top and front of my x99 sma8 build. The Hwlabs will go to the bottom chamber and still in transit from US to me...Hopefully will come intact...


----------



## failwheeldrive

Yeah I've noticed that; there were brand new sr1 360s on ebay for like $80. Considered picking a few up but I already have the nemesis 360s.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> I ordered mine from Overclockers UK and received the fans in 2 - 3 days http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-019-AL&groupid=701&catid=2331&subcat=4


£20 for shipping? ($32.49) Yeah, I'm not quite so eager anymore...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yezah it got damaged because a flap was loose and i tried to close the box nd it caught a few fins before I realized what was happening and stopped trying to close the box...

the fins are super super thin

its not a waterchannel and its mostly paint so I am out of luck as far as a replacement goes...

it showed up perfect too, I asked performancepcs to overpack and they did and it managed to be fine but they have a damn loose flap on the top of the rad's inner box so when you close it and you aren't being super careful. It WILL damage fins.

they could easily fix it by taping the flaps to the inside of the top... but that tape would cost money so its not happening

I really can't keep up with posts... all my computers are in pieces. and I have to do alot of finessing for this build I am on

I got an ES heatsinked Rivbe so no backplates on which to screw those fancy EK blocks I got onto. luckily I had the mosfet backplate off my RIVE and it sorta fit...

what do you guys do to keep the tubing from putting pressure on your blocks and moving them around? the mosfet cooler is worrying me to the point I am tempted to try tieing it down or anchoring it onto something

freaking wierd not having a socket clamp with those ek blocks on my rivbe either.

still havent even powered on the board or cpu for its first test.. I have faith in my ability to break mobos though T-T

luckily I have a spare MSI BB2 around if it come down to it


----------



## timerwin63

Alright, guys, here's another question. I'm looking for a rad that can fit a modified fan _inside of_ the shroud, for SFF purposes. That may sound odd, but here's what I mean.

Render:


Modded fan:


Fan seated in rad:


These pictures came from the Golden Nugget Hadron build (here), and apparently his temps weren't too great on the Black Ice Pro II. Not bad, but not great. I got an ST30 with this design in mind, as it's the king of slim rads (that I know of. Maybe the 240mm slim rad from DazMode beats it? Haven't seen anyone but James use 'em in his Parvum Warfare build, so I don't have numbers to go off of).

Anyway, if you'd look at the fan blade clearance with your rad and let me know about fit, it'd be greatly appreciated.

Edit: After a bit of digging, and based purely off pictures, I think the Swiftech MCR220 and the XSPC AX240 would work for my purposes, but I'm really not sure. Dunno if anyone's interested in this, but if they are, I'll get one of each when I get the spare cash and find out which ones work.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Alright, guys, here's another question. I'm looking for a rad that can fit a modified fan _inside of_ the shroud, for SFF purposes. That may sound odd, but here's what I mean.
> 
> Render:
> 
> 
> Modded fan:
> 
> 
> Fan seated in rad:
> 
> 
> These pictures came from the Golden Nugget Hadron build (here), and apparently his temps weren't too great on the Black Ice Pro II. Not bad, but not great. I got an ST30 with this design in mind, as it's the king of slim rads (that I know of. Maybe the 240mm slim rad from DazMode beats it? Haven't seen anyone but James use 'em in his Parvum Warfare build, so I don't have numbers to go off of).
> 
> Anyway, if you'd look at the fan blade clearance with your rad and let me know about fit, it'd be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Edit: After a bit of digging, and based purely off pictures, I think the Swiftech MCR220 and the XSPC AX240 would work for my purposes, but I'm really not sure. Dunno if anyone's interested in this, but if they are, I'll get one of each when I get the spare cash and find out which ones work.


The SR1 has a shroud deep enough for a slim fan. You could look into that.


----------



## shanker

Z87 TUF w/ armor
4670K H220X (stock clocks)
Asus 290(got used for $250) Komodo waterblock (stock clocks)
Alphacool UT60 x 240
Arc mini R2

4 x Noctua PWM fans
2 x Swiftech Helix
1 x Corsair SP120

I ran the pump/fans full speed while looping the Valley demo at 1440P maxed for 45 minutes and the CPU/GPU/VRMs never went above 40 degrees Celsius.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Z87 TUF w/ armor
> 4670K H220X (stock clocks)
> Asus 290(got used for $250) Komodo waterblock (stock clocks)
> Alphacool UT60 x 240
> Arc mini R2
> 
> 4 x Noctua PWM fans
> 2 x Swiftech Helix
> 1 x Corsair SP120
> 
> I ran the pump/fans full speed while looping the Valley demo at 1440P maxed for 45 minutes and the CPU/GPU/VRMs never went above 40 degrees Celsius.


Crossed tubes! Blasphemy! No, but really, the pic is a bit blurry, but it looks great.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Crossed tubes! Blasphemy! No, but really, the pic is a bit blurry, but it looks great.


Hey I feel crossed tubes can be done right







. Here is a really old picture of my last build before I got the Swiftech uniblock bridge. The tubing off the GPU's sort of looked like a braid and I tried to keep the other two to the right as parallel as possible. Also was on a potato camera too.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Hey I feel crossed tubes can be done right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Here is a really old picture of my last build before I got the Swiftech uniblock bridge. The tubing off the GPU's sort of looked like a braid and I tried to keep the other two to the right as parallel as possible. Also was on a potato camera too.
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2169782/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


Oh, I'm guilty of it myself. I didn't have any space to play with routing on my Hadron, so it had to be crossed. Doesn't look half bad, IMO.


----------



## Shogon

Those Alpenföhn fans looks nice







. Need a distributor in the US though!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Has anyone heard of Alpenfohn fans? If so, are they any good for radiators? Ran across them the other day, and I gotta say, they're damn sexy... Link to fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Heard only good things from guys in Europe. I contacted them about possible US retailer options and I was told "soon".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I know @B NEGATIVE has used them in at least one build that I know of and had said good things. Those orange ones are gorgeous


i ordered 18 of these from directly aquacomputer you can pm @Shoggy and ask


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Oh, I'm guilty of it myself. I didn't have any space to play with routing on my Hadron, so it had to be crossed. Doesn't look half bad, IMO.


I personally don't think crossed tubing is a terrible idea, I love it when it's done well, partially because of the rarity with so many people against crossed tubing.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I personally don't think crossed tubing is a terrible idea, I love it when it's done well, partially because of the rarity with so many people against crossed tubing.


Agreed. Nothing wrong with it as long as the tubing is routed cleanly. It's easy to overdo it though... typically I'll limit it to happening once or twice at max, and only if the routing fits the pattern I'm going for.


----------



## Alasmodified

here is my last build a custom steam box


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alasmodified*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snippy snap snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is my last build a custom steam box


Really nice lights inside the tubes! What are those lights?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Looks like fiber optic cables? I'd like to know for sure too.


----------



## timerwin63

Has anyone thought about running EL wire through a tube? I'd be complicated to get it to stay, especially in places like right after the pump, and the power would need to be elsewhere. Maybe routed through a fill port on a res?


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Looks like fiber optic cables? I'd like to know for sure too.


yes , they are i saw a post of him explaining how to do it , he got a Build Log (but not from those builds)

pretty cool stuff !!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> yes , they are i saw a post of him explaining how to do it , he got a Build Log (but not from those builds)
> 
> pretty cool stuff !!


Found his post on how he routed the lighting! Can be found here, and it looks like a pretty cool idea.


----------



## Alasmodified

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Really nice lights inside the tubes! What are those lights?


thanks! I used fiber optic cable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Looks like fiber optic cables? I'd like to know for sure too.


yes it is fiber optic cable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Has anyone thought about running EL wire through a tube? I'd be complicated to get it to stay, especially in places like right after the pump, and the power would need to be elsewhere. Maybe routed through a fill port on a res?


I thought about using el wire but what it was a no go for me for the main reason that you are limited to one particular color and the whole idea of using fiber optic cable is the fact that I can do any color I want and also there is no electricity running inside the tubes through the wires.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

So if I get dual input output on the bits d5 top it will still be worse than stock flow? Cuz the monster pumps power cable prohibits installation of the ek top
Not without figuring out how to completely remove the power cable and there are some things getting in the way of that


----------



## jpetrach

I like the new window on the case.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alasmodified*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is my last build a custom steam box[/quote


----------



## CaliLife17

So I think im going to bite the bullet and order 2x Hardware Labs GTX Nemesis 480 and sell of my new UT60s. Sadly it looks like specialtech wants to charge me $130 for shipping, so will probably just get the US version.

Looks like these are going to be some really nice Rads with P/P low RPM Fans.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

If u go that route
The second you get them in.
Tape the inside of the top of the inner box so u don't accidentally damage the rad like I did.

Their fins are too thin and that box is poorly thought out. Literally it's just so disappointing.


I mean 180$ rad, now worth what? 120? If even? Thanks to that idiocy.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> If u go that route
> The second you get them in.
> Tape the inside of the top of the inner box so u don't accidentally damage the rad like I did.
> 
> Their fins are too thin and that box is poorly thought out. Literally it's just so disappointing.
> 
> 
> I mean 180$ rad, now worth what? 120? If even? Thanks to that idiocy.


So it looks like those flaps would hang down, and then when you try and close the top, they jam up against the Rad?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alasmodified*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Really nice lights inside the tubes! What are those lights?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks! I used fiber optic cable
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Looks like fiber optic cables? I'd like to know for sure too.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yes it is fiber optic cable
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Has anyone thought about running EL wire through a tube? I'd be complicated to get it to stay, especially in places like right after the pump, and the power would need to be elsewhere. Maybe routed through a fill port on a res?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I thought about using el wire but what it was a no go for me for the main reason that you are limited to one particular color and the whole idea of using fiber optic cable is the fact that I can do any color I want and also there is no electricity running inside the tubes through the wires.
Click to expand...

El wire does conduct current and fades very quickly,not worth the effort.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alasmodified*
> 
> thanks! I used fiber optic cable
> yes it is fiber optic cable
> I thought about using el wire but what it was a no go for me for the main reason that you are limited to one particular color and the whole idea of using fiber optic cable is the fact that I can do any color I want and also there is no electricity running inside the tubes through the wires.


How much light does the fiber optic emit? Would it be enough that if I ran it through opaque white tube it could make it glow? Also, where does one go about acquiring the stuff to do this? (cable, lights, glands, etc.) Did you use special lights, or just LEDs? Sorry for the bombardment of questions, it's just a beautiful idea.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And this is why MIPS will forever be loved by watercoolers.











Just amazing machine work.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And this is why MIPS will forever be loved by watercoolers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just amazing machine work.


I'm having impure thoughts right now. Please use a NSFW warning next time you post pornography like that....


----------



## Ramzinho

i agree with James.. this is NSFW.. if twitch icons worked here.. that would be a Kreygasm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And this is why MIPS will forever be loved by watercoolers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just amazing machine work.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having impure thoughts right now. Please use a NSFW warning next time you post pornography like that....
Click to expand...

I just digging out some more classics,found an original Supreme in black Delrin and some various HK3's......more pics I think (flexing the Lightroom muscle!)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i agree with James.. this is NSFW.. if twitch icons worked here.. that would be a Kreygasm


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> So it looks like those flaps would hang down, and then when you try and close the top, they jam up against the Rad?


yeah that's exactly what happens and if a corner of either of those are damaged at all or just with bad luck they will catch some fins

I mean they are too long to go down on the edge of the rad

I messaged hwlabs and am gonna exchange some emails hopefully get them to take this into consideration for further shipments. I mean it's not going to cost much to prevent and they're selling a top tier product.

Just really chaps my ass that happened. It was so easily preventable.


----------



## VSG

EK's got the Asus z97 board mosfet blocks ready: http://www.ekwb.com/news/521/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-Maximus-VII-Gene-Hero-Ranger-MOSFET-water-blocks/

Needless to say only Gene, Hero and Ranger- Impact full board from z87 still fits and the M7F finally has a copper block with G/14 threads (even if the copper is in direct contact with the aluminum heatsink above, but baby steps).


----------



## morencyam

Too bad they never made a block for the Z87 Sabertooth


----------



## VSG

I haven't seen a single Sabertooth board being watercooled actually, I guess the market just isn't there. ROG brand just outsells everything else, including other Asus offerings. Bitspower is getting into the custom PCB GPU and motherboard waterblocks market now so that's a possible option.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Wut? No Z97 Gryphon?

Not that it needs it.....but.....I need one.....you know....because.......


----------



## VSG

Is that what the D-Frame mini is getting? Or is it going in the _other_ one?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I haven't seen a single Sabertooth board being watercooled actually, I guess the market just isn't there. ROG brand just outsells everything else, including other Asus offerings. Bitspower is getting into the custom PCB GPU and motherboard waterblocks market now so that's a possible option.


P67 Sabertooth had a MOSFET block. But you're right, I never really saw many people using it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is that what the D-Frame mini is getting? Or is it going in the _other_ one?


The DFM is getting the Gryphon.....The _other_ is getting X99 of the EVGA mATX variety.


----------



## VSG

Definitely looking forward to both


----------



## lowfat

I will say I like how this block is designed and I like the EK clear single terminal.


----------



## derickwm

I know, I really need to get myself a couple as well.


----------



## szeged

get me some while youre at it ty.


----------



## VSG

and me


----------



## Qu1ckset

@B NEGATIVE Hey just saying the banner on the OP isn't there anymore for what ever reason...


----------



## CaliLife17

anyone ever have any luck selling Water-cooling parts on Craigslist? I have these new UT60's i want to sell, and sadly don't have enough rep to sell them on here







. Trying to avoid eBay if i can, but seeing if people have ever had any success selling on CL. Cant think of anywhere else to sell it.

my 2x HWLabs GTX 480 Nemesis should be here next week.


----------



## derickwm

I've sold a few computer related things on CL, but never water cooling gear sadly. I would love to do more local dealings, especially for things like 480 radiators that are a huge pain to ship.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

hardforum or evga classifieds, techpowerup, there are forums with less requirements to use the market place


----------



## Gabrielzm

Finish painting my xspc 240 mm v3 rx rad from black matte to white matte. Couldn't resist mounting the fans to check how would look. I like it









the 480mm will be next


----------



## jpetrach

That looks nice.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE Hey just saying the banner on the OP isn't there anymore for what ever reason...


Then we need a new one.

If anyone wants to make the new OCN thread banner then PM me your efforts!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then we need a new one.
> 
> If anyone wants to make the new OCN thread banner then PM me your efforts!


will give it a shot and pm you mate.

what dimensions u want that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then we need a new one.
> 
> If anyone wants to make the new OCN thread banner then PM me your efforts!
> 
> 
> 
> will give it a shot and pm you mate.
> 
> *what dimensions u want that?*
Click to expand...

Sensible.

And boobies involved would be great too.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Because bewbs


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> will give it a shot and pm you mate.
> 
> what dimensions u want that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sensible.
> 
> And boobies involved would be great too.


+1 for boobs.


----------



## iBored

Hey guys, I need some opinions.
So I've recently gotten my 5960X and X99 setup.
But the temps are horrible. I can't get pass 4.2ghz at 1.2V. At 1.3V, my temps scorch over 100degC.
But my gpu runs well below 40degC under load.
Loop temps are 33degC, ambient 31degC.
And here's my loop previously, and I have since my first test swapped the top 3 eloop b12-2's to AP-15's and my room fan blowing directly at it.


Any guesses?

Edit: problem solved. CPU base wasn't mounted correctly. Derp moment.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some opinions.
> So I've recently gotten my 5960X and X99 setup.
> But the temps are horrible. I can't get pass 4.2ghz at 1.2V. At 1.3V, my temps scorch over 100degC.
> But my gpu runs well below 40degC under load.
> Loop temps are 33degC, ambient 31degC.
> And here's my loop previously, and I have since my first test swapped the top 3 eloop b12-2's to AP-15's and my room fan blowing directly at it.
> 
> Any guesses?


Sounds like a bad mount really.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Those x99 chips are large and it's not compatible with every block. Try reinstalling and if that doesn't work rotate the block 90degree


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Sounds like a bad mount really.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Those x99 chips are large and it's not compatible with every block. Try reinstalling and if that doesn't work rotate the block 90degree


This was the the coverage.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

FAR too much paste.........


----------



## VSG

I was speaking to HWL about the packaging and they were already aware of it, it was a supplier issue and the smaller rads are already corrected with the larger rads on the way too.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sensible.
> 
> And boobies involved would be great too.


For me BEWBS = 2 EK logos


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FAR too much paste.........


This... I know you were trying to go by EK recommendations, but that's about 4 or 5 times too much TIM.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some opinions.
> So I've recently gotten my 5960X and X99 setup.
> But the temps are horrible. I can't get pass 4.2ghz at 1.2V. At 1.3V, my temps scorch over 100degC.
> But my gpu runs well below 40degC under load.
> Loop temps are 33degC, ambient 31degC.
> And here's my loop previously, and I have since my first test swapped the top 3 eloop b12-2's to AP-15's and my room fan blowing directly at it.
> 
> 
> Any guesses?


I like how you stole my idea for mounting your res







j/k looks good Im sure there are plenty out there like ours but I havent seen many. I like the acrylic tubing too


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I was speaking to HWL about the packaging and they were already aware of it, it was a supplier issue and the smaller rads are already corrected with the larger rads on the way too.


That makes me a Lil more mad. I got no messages back from them about my rad either. I hope they comp me or replace mine then


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> That makes me a Lil more mad. I got no messages back from them about my rad either. I hope they comp me or replace mine then


Was the rad undamaged when you got it? If not, why not just exchange it at the reseller then?


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FAR too much paste.........


Yea. The first time I got those temps I thought it wasnt enough so...

Anyway, turns out I didn't align the base of the cpou block correctly.

Just to ask, why does mounting the base differently affect the cooling that much?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some opinions.
> So I've recently gotten my 5960X and X99 setup.
> But the temps are horrible. I can't get pass 4.2ghz at 1.2V. At 1.3V, my temps scorch over 100degC.
> But my gpu runs well below 40degC under load.
> Loop temps are 33degC, ambient 31degC.
> And here's my loop previously, and I have since my first test swapped the top 3 eloop b12-2's to AP-15's and my room fan blowing directly at it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any guesses?


Besides a new mount with less paste have you for any reason disassemble the cpu block? I ask because if you did there is a chance you might have rotated the block channels orientation hindering flow.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Yea. The first time I got those temps I thought it wasnt enough so...
> 
> Anyway, turns out I didn't align the base of the cpou block correctly.
> 
> Just to ask, why does mounting the base differently affect the cooling that much?


Speaking of too much paste. I'm by no means a pro but if you had done much thinner lines of paste you would have been fine. It would appear that you may have inadvertently created an insulation rather than doing what it is intended for.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Was the rad undamaged when you got it? If not, why not just exchange it at the reseller then?


it was flawless before I tried to put it back in the box to prevent it from getting damaged. Oh the irony


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> it was flawless before I tried to put it back in the box to prevent it from getting damaged. Oh the irony


so you damaged it and not shipping/packaging?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I am having a little run in with temps my friends. The farmost port on the Rx360 Xspc Radiator I have set as the inlet? The water runs from the Rad, to the board, to the block, to the 270 and then strait back to the rad. I am getting temps on a stress test of around 94c. I think that Is high for a custom loop. When running skyrim and what not I am hitting 70c. Any ideas? Do I have the loop "backwards" ?? Is it the thermal Paste?

TheCautiousone

Ps. The Tube running over the GPU farthest to the left Is the one I am talking about. Running the Fluid back to the Rad after the loop. Going into the farthest port of the rad. THe short tube coming from the front of the Top rad Is going over the VRMS on the Motherboard to the block.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> I am having a little run in with temps my friends. The farmost port on the Rx360 Xspc Radiator I have set as the inlet? The water runs from the Rad, to the board, to the block, to the 270 and then strait back to the rad. I am getting temps on a stress test of around 94c. I think that Is high for a custom loop. When running skyrim and what not I am hitting 70c. Any ideas? Do I have the loop "backwards" ?? Is it the thermal Paste?
> 
> TheCautiousone
> 
> Ps. The Tube running over the GPU farthest to the left Is the one I am talking about. Running the Fluid back to the Rad after the loop. Going into the farthest port of the rad. THe short tube coming from the front of the Top rad Is going over the VRMS on the Motherboard to the block.


Loop order doesn't matter, so long as it's res -> pump.

I see you have a 4770k. Maybe it's just an awful TIM-application by Intel - how were your temps before this?

What pump are you using? D5 I assume?

Does the radiator sides (short-end where there is the tank) get really warm?
Because my 2500k loads at just under 50'c with the same setup, and the rad gets warm to the touch, but slightly.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Speaking of too much paste. I'm by no means a pro but if you had done much thinner lines of paste you would have been fine. It would appear that you may have inadvertently created an insulation rather than doing what it is intended for.


I used the cross method on my Xeon, then I took a candle lighter and heated it a little making the TIM cross melt into the cpu a bit. At the exact same time I sat the waterblock on an old clothes iron for about 1 minute, installed the re-heated block (hot enough to burn skin), and fired up the computer and discovered a 10C difference from my last CPU/water block/TIM install. I thought it was mostly, if not all, due to going from a 930 to a Xeon x5650 (45nm to 32nm) that gave me the huge difference in temps (and it probably is), but now I wonder if the preheating did not allow for better TIM spreading?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Putting the rad in the Box and trying to close it damaged the rad.
I am not expecting anything nor did 8 put anything in my message to them asking for any reimbursement

Next step I am gonna bore my bitspower it goes 3 to 1 before the intake and it's too tight


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Putting the rad in the Box and trying to close it damaged the rad.
> I am not expecting anything nor did 8 put anything in my message to them asking for any reimbursement
> 
> Next step I am gonna bore my bitspower it goes 3 to 1 before the intake and it's too tight


Was it an Alphacool rad btw?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Hwlabs


----------



## CaliLife17

Need some help. So this is my first full custom water-cooling rig, only ever done AIO. I can't get the Tubing to fit with my compression fittings. Here is a picture of my issue. It is just digging into the tubing, and it won't reach the treading to lock down.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Here is what I'm using

Bitspower Compression fittings

PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing

Both 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD.... Just looks like the wall on the PrimoFlex is just too thick. I would rather have to buy new tubing instead of compression fittings. Do i need to buy the retail packaging instead of the bulk amount that PPCS cuts?


----------



## VSG

Sigh.. Just another case of the colored Advanced LRT having too thick a wall and not conforming to specs. I have their clear, red and white tubing and only the clear barely works without needing any assistance from pliers or hot water.

Cut off the damaged end, dip the tubing in hot water and try again. You may also need to use pliers on the inside to expand it.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sigh.. Just another case of the colored Advanced LRT having too thick a wall and not conforming to specs. I have their clear, red and white tubing and only the clear barely works without needing any assistance from pliers or hot water.
> 
> Cut off the damaged end, dip the tubing in hot water and try again. You may also need to use pliers on the inside to expand it.


okay so this tubing can be salvaged?

I get the hot water, as it will soften the tubing, do i bring the water to a boil? does it need to be distilled water? with it being softer, will it still cut into the tubing?

For the pliers, I'm guessing I'm trying to breakdown the tubing a little, correct? Basically trying to squeeze, making the wall thinner. I would imagine needle nose pliers would be best, yes?

Also +Rep for the really helpful and fast response!


----------



## VSG

No need to bring water to a boil, just dipping the tubing in hot water for a few seconds usually is enough. The pliers is just artificially opening up the tubing to allow for the barb end of the fitting to go in easier. I don't think that will make the wall any thinner. Yes, needle nose pliers would be best.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No need to bring water to a boil, just dipping the tubing in hot water for a few seconds usually is enough. The pliers is just artificially opening up the tubing to allow for the barb end of the fitting to go in easier. I don't think that will make the wall any thinner. Yes, needle nose pliers would be best.


Okay misunderstood pliers orientation, I'm not calmping on the wall part, I'm just putting it into the opening of the tube and opening the pliers to widen the opening of the tubing. Make sense, as these were also very hard to get into the Barb part itself.

Well i know what i shall be spending most of tomorrow on. Thanks for all the help VSG!


----------



## VSG

+1 for right username


----------



## Ragsters

I would sand down the locking ring. The inside of the ring is too sharp and it's cutting the tube.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey does anyone know about plans for what X99 motherboards will have waterblocks in the semi-near future?

I only know of the EVGA Classified as Nate is got the EVGA blocks on lockdown lol


----------



## failwheeldrive

The RVE obviously, according to Derick it'll be October before that gets released though. So I'm assuming the big names will start getting blocks around that time too... X99 Deluxe, RVE, maybe the Classy, etc.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> EK Water Blocks is also working on a collection of Full Board (and other types of) water blocks for the latest ASUS (Rampage V Extreme), GIGABYTE (GA-X99-SOC Force, GA-X99-Gaming G1, GA-X99-UD7, GA-X99-UD5, ...) and MSI (MSI X99S XPower AC) Intel® X99 Express based motherboards with availability by the end of September 2014.


From EK's news section. I'm curious as to what some of the boards will look like with waterblocks... Especially the Xpower. Love the sound of "and other types", which I'm hoping is more monoblocks again.

And awww, some of them were delayed until October now?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

No asrock. Starting to dislike EK.

Where is nate man selling waterblocks? Is he doing x99 as well? I know he did x79 dark but that's about all I know.

I might have to try n get him to make an asrock block if he is still in the block making game

Full cover means it's cpu and the mobo on same block


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> From EK's news section. I'm curious as to what some of the boards will look like with waterblocks... Especially the Xpower. Love the sound of "and other types", which I'm hoping is more monoblocks again.
> 
> And awww, some of them were delayed until October now?


Wow, I'm surprised they're working on so many different blocks. That's great news... usually they are only able to do a couple boards aside from the popular Asus models. And yeah, I doubt we'll see _any_ x99 mobo blocks before October. I'm sure the RVE is the top priority for them at the moment, so if it's not coming until October the other blocks can't be much sooner









And tatmMRKIV, EK has to follow market demands... and that means ASRock isn't going to get a lot of support. They're just about the least commonly used brand among enthusiast water coolers.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Asrock is one of the biggest contenders for oc potential this time around. I'd find it hard to believe that MSI or evga will be able to keep up with them.

I know previously they haven't been the most purchased but I think that they are definitely becoming more prevalent

If the ocf had been out for launch I am sure it'd have been major competition for the RVE


----------



## Schmuckley

Wow..idk how i never saw this.
I guess i don't qualify.
Cooling with waterbong fer 3 years no good aye?
Don't really care,I've had 6-11c below ambient res water the whole time.
- the times i bought bags of ice that is


----------



## Schmuckley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> No asrock. Starting to dislike EK.
> 
> Where is nate man selling waterblocks? Is he doing x99 as well? I know he did x79 dark but that's about all I know.
> 
> I might have to try n get him to make an asrock block if he is still in the block making game
> 
> *Full cover means it's cpu and the mobo on same block*


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Full cover blocks http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c89/s147/list/p1/b145/
Cover cpu and mobo
With the same block mass

Or did people start calling
Standard mobo blocks full cover blocks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schmuckley*
> 
> Wow..idk how i never saw this.
> I guess i don't qualify.
> Cooling with waterbong fer 3 years no good aye?
> Don't really care,I've had 6-11c below ambient res water the whole time.
> - the times i bought bags of ice that is


What the hell are you talking about?

And edit your posts instead of double posting please.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> From EK's news section. I'm curious as to what some of the boards will look like with waterblocks... Especially the Xpower. Love the sound of "and other types", which I'm hoping is more monoblocks again.
> 
> And awww, some of them were delayed until October now?


+rep thanks for the link. that really opens up some possibilities for me then.

just gotta make sure the board I choose will separate the lanes as 8x,8x,8x for 3-way cfx.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> No asrock. Starting to dislike EK.
> 
> Where is nate man selling waterblocks? Is he doing x99 as well? I know he did x79 dark but that's about all I know.
> 
> I might have to try n get him to make an asrock block if he is still in the block making game
> 
> Full cover means it's cpu and the mobo on same block


he's slingin' em on evga's forum. he's starting work on the x99, describing it wont be much different than the x79 dark.

and he's definitely still in the block making game. i've always been a fan of his but he's pretty dedicated to evga boards...and I wasnt. but this round I might make an exception.

but I gotta correct you, full cover does NOT mean cpu and mobo on same block..

full cover means mb chipset(s) and vrms on the same block.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Full cover blocks http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c89/s147/list/p1/b145/
> Cover cpu and mobo
> With the same block mass
> 
> Or did people start calling
> Standard mobo blocks full cover blocks


those block designs are new, and Bitspower are the only ones doing that. full cover has never always meant what Bitspower is doing now.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Full cover means it's cpu and the mobo on same block


They say full board. The full board blocks they offered for my motherboard (Gigabyte Z87X-OC) are two separate blocks. Full board just means mosfets/vrms and southbridge are covered, there is no guarantee of it being a single block (like the GIgabyte Z87X-OC FORCE) or a monoblock (Asus RVBE)... Hence why I said I hope they come out with more monoblocks, especially for motherboards other than the Rampage Extreme. Would be nice to see such and only have two connectors for processor, mosfets/VRMs, and southbridge - things would be rather tidier! Hopefully at least for the Gigabyte X99-SOC as well as the MSI X99 Xpower (in addition to the one that will more than likely get such a treatment, the Rampage V Extreme).


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> From EK's news section. I'm curious as to what some of the boards will look like with waterblocks... Especially the Xpower. Love the sound of "and other types", which I'm hoping is more monoblocks again.
> 
> And awww, some of them were delayed until October now?


Why would mosfet and chipset only be considered fullcover? Freaking nomenclature

Anyways
Ek should be making a few models with mono block variations. It seems to be what companies are doing these days. But it'll probably be only on RVE and one or 2 other boards

RVE almost definitely will get one because they can guaranteed sell 100 of them


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> From EK's news section. I'm curious as to what some of the boards will look like with waterblocks... Especially the Xpower. Love the sound of "and other types", which I'm hoping is more monoblocks again.
> 
> And awww, some of them were delayed until October now?
> 
> 
> 
> Why would mosfet and chipset only be considered fullcover? Freaking nomenclature
> 
> Anyways
> Ek should be making a few models with mono block variations. It seems to be what companies are doing these days. But it'll probably be only on RVE and one or 2 other boards
> 
> RVE almost definitely will get one because they can guaranteed sell 100 of them
Click to expand...

EK will make blocks for the popular boards,the obvious boards first then the others follow on.

If the full board block set doesnt have impingement style CPU cooling then they are not worth it...


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> *Why would mosfet and chipset only be considered fullcover? Freaking nomenclature*
> 
> Anyways
> Ek should be making a few models with mono block variations. It seems to be what companies are doing these days. But it'll probably be only on RVE and one or 2 other boards
> 
> RVE almost definitely will get one because they can guaranteed sell 100 of them


Because that's what it's always been called... it's a full cover *motherboard water block.*

Once again, EK can only make so many products... there's just not enough demand for fullcover mobo blocks for every midrange and high end motherboard, as well as monoblock variants for the same boards.


----------



## Lefik

I'm not a huge fan of the full motherboard blocks Bitspower has been releasing for ATX boards, imho they either end up looking boring(meh) or tacky. But I do think they're a lot better in MITX boards.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I'm not a huge fan of the full motherboard blocks Bitspower has been releasing for ATX boards, imho they either end up looking boring(meh) or tacky. But I do think they're a lot better in MITX boards.




Yup.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I think the Bitspower would look good with graphics cards installed. And blocked cards

I just want a newer cpu block design.

And it's a bit late Cuz I already got separate blocks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I used the cross method on my Xeon, then I took a candle lighter and heated it a little making the TIM cross melt into the cpu a bit. At the exact same time I sat the waterblock on an old clothes iron for about 1 minute, installed the re-heated block (hot enough to burn skin), and fired up the computer and discovered a 10C difference from my last CPU/water block/TIM install. I thought it was mostly, if not all, due to going from a 930 to a Xeon x5650 (45nm to 32nm) that gave me the huge difference in temps (and it probably is), but now I wonder if the preheating did not allow for better TIM spreading?


Indeed, emulsion type TIM spreads much better when heated. I put the applicator syringe in a ziplock, boil the kettle and heat the syringe in a bowl for 10 mins. Spreads by pressure perfectly each time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

More Waterblocks...this time from one of my favorites!







The one thing better than having one of these blocks......is having 2!



It would almost be a shame to paint them but thats whats going to happen to them....







New log starts next week starting with the DFM!


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More Waterblocks...this time from one of my favorites!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snipily Snap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one thing better than having one of these blocks......is having 2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *It would almost be a shame to paint them but thats whats going to happen to them....*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snop Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New log starts next week starting with the DFM!


Indeed that's some pretty hardware!
Can't wait to see which color you'll be using in your build log, something new?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More Waterblocks...this time from one of my favorites!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one thing better than having one of these blocks......is having 2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would almost be a shame to paint them but thats whats going to happen to them....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New log starts next week starting with the DFM!


Really nice pictures!! Did you get a new camera?


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello guys,

For cleaning purposes I am going to tear my loop down next weekend.
As I am at it I can maybe make changes to the layout of the tubing.

What do you guys think of the current setup?
This was my first custom loop so don't be too harsh on me.











Can't flip the radiator because of the inlets I made into the case.




I can't find a way to make this look better. Messy IMO



I also bought a decoupling for the pump.


----------



## _REAPER_

Updated the PSU and changed out the cables.


----------



## ds84

Almost finished my WC rig, just need to buy 1 more fitting as i miscalculated...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More Waterblocks...this time from one of my favorites!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snipily Snap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one thing better than having one of these blocks......is having 2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *It would almost be a shame to paint them but thats whats going to happen to them....*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snop Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New log starts next week starting with the DFM!
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed that's some pretty hardware!
> Can't wait to see which color you'll be using in your build log, something new?
Click to expand...

Something fun and a bit more LAN orientated than my S3......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More Waterblocks...this time from one of my favorites!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one thing better than having one of these blocks......is having 2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would almost be a shame to paint them but thats whats going to happen to them....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New log starts next week starting with the DFM!
> 
> 
> 
> Really nice pictures!! Did you get a new camera?
Click to expand...

No,just a new technique.


----------



## Ramzinho

Something about Heatkillers make me giggle when i see them


----------



## szeged

Ppcs finally sent me the right dump top...9 days after paying for overnight shipping.

Cleaned my monsta rads again...next time I tear this rig down I'm just gonna smash these rads and buy some good ones.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Ppcs finally sent me the right dump top...9 days after paying for overnight shipping.
> 
> Cleaned my monsta rads again...next time I tear this rig down I'm just gonna smash these rads and buy some good ones.


Care to explain?
Whats wrong with the Alphacools?


----------



## derickwm




----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Care to explain?
> Whats wrong with the Alphacools?


They perform well, but they're filthy and are kind of lacking in the build quality department.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


I pulled mine out this weekend after 3 years of continual service,it need a new home after the next 2 builds are done....

Maybe an S frame....

Keep the SR2 love coming.


----------



## CaliLife17

For the hot water that I'm going to dip the tubing it to see if i can get these compression fittings to work, Does that hot water need to distilled water? I have about 4 gallons of it, but just seeing if it should be distilled or just normal tap water fine.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More Waterblocks...this time from one of my favorites!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one thing better than having one of these blocks......is having 2!
> 
> 
> 
> It would almost be a shame to paint them but thats whats going to happen to them....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New log starts next week starting with the DFM!


Those.... are rather gorgeous!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I pulled mine out this weekend after 3 years of continual service,it need a new home after the next 2 builds are done....
> 
> Maybe an S frame....
> 
> Keep the SR2 love coming.


I was looking at those in win cases, they just don't have enough rad space unless you get the king size h-frame and at that point you may as well get a cross desk


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> For the hot water that I'm going to dip the tubing it to see if i can get these compression fittings to work, Does that hot water need to distilled water? I have about 4 gallons of it, but just seeing if it should be distilled or just normal tap water fine.


Normal tap is fine if you are just dipping the tubing in it to soften it up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Derick made me do it.....


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More Waterblocks...this time from one of my favorites!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Got that exact block and backplate on my 670 FTW still. They look great when you have light hitting them. Makes inside the case look bigger if you have the backplate clean and shiny.


----------



## Ramzinho

Guys.. can we stop posting porn on this thread?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Guys.. can we stop posting porn on this thread?


Haha, I feel you.

Is it weird that I almost get turned on by such pictures?


----------



## lowfat

I rather disliked my SR2s when I had them.









This was my only water cooled one. Excuse the ghettoness since it is from 2011.














This will be my last 2P system I think.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im with you Low,im looking at a 12 core Xeon for a EVGA Micro X99. More power with less 2CPU oddities....

Im doing a final build for this one then its staying static....going to use it till it breaks or someone offers me monies.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im with you Low,im looking at a 12 core Xeon for a EVGA Micro X99. More power with less 2CPU oddities....
> 
> Im doing a final build for this one then its staying static....going to use it till it breaks or someone offers me monies.


The pcb on your sr2 looks brand new. Did you douse it in isopropyl alcohol after pulling it or something? Not a spec of dust, debris or junk visible.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im with you Low,im looking at a 12 core Xeon for a EVGA Micro X99. More power with less 2CPU oddities....
> 
> Im doing a final build for this one then its staying static....going to use it till it breaks or someone offers me monies.
> 
> 
> 
> The pcb on your sr2 looks brand new. Did you douse it in isopropyl alcohol after pulling it or something? Not a spec of dust, debris or junk visible.
Click to expand...

Inverted layout,the cards caught the crap...they were covered in dust....nasty black London dust....

Does help that I have a compressor tho....









I have these pics on FB and can you believe that someone is complaining that oversized fittings dont work with HK3's......just enjoy the goddamn pics!!!


----------



## failwheeldrive

lol true, makes sense. I've been running a test bench lately so my boards gets disgusting ridiculously quick. It's the worst when they are glossy PCBs, it seems like the dust sticks more than it does on a matte finish.

Nice pics man. They've improved *1000000 with the lightbox


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> lol true, makes sense. I've been running a test bench lately so my boards gets disgusting ridiculously quick. It's the worst when they are glossy PCBs, it seems like the dust sticks more than it does on a matte finish.
> 
> Nice pics man. They've improved *1000000 with the lightbox


Strangely (not),it was a combination of bad settings and a lack of understanding of composition,the light box in these shots was my monitor.

Im happy with what im producing now,which is handy because a new log starts this week and I have to up my game.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im with you Low,im looking at a 12 core Xeon for a EVGA Micro X99. More power with less 2CPU oddities....
> 
> Im doing a final build for this one then its staying static....going to use it till it breaks or someone offers me monies.
> 
> 
> 
> The pcb on your sr2 looks brand new. Did you douse it in isopropyl alcohol after pulling it or something? Not a spec of dust, debris or junk visible.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Inverted layout,the cards caught the crap...they were covered in dust....nasty black London dust....
> 
> Does help that I have a compressor tho....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have these pics on FB and can you believe that someone is complaining that oversized fittings dont work with HK3's......just enjoy the goddamn pics!!!
Click to expand...

Heh welcome to the joys of FB. Some of the trolls we get on our page...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Hey,I only post pics there.....


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Heh welcome to the joys of FB. Some of the trolls we get on our page...


One of my joys in life is reading the comments after you guys or another highly followed facebook page posts a photo. Hilarity ensues


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> One of my joys in life is reading the comments after you guys or another highly followed facebook page posts a photo. Hilarity ensues


i do this at work when i need a good laugh.

some of the comments make me wonder how these people dont forget how to breathe when they wake up


----------



## derickwm

>Post a pic of a brand new block

>Goes to read first comment a few seconds later

>MFW it's some dude requesting a block for some obscure, old piece of hardware


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> >Post a pic of a brand new block
> >Goes to read first comment a few seconds later
> >MFW it's some dude requesting a block for some obscure, old piece of hardware


i can already see it happening in october, RvE monoblocks come out. some guy asks for a monoblock for his old ass socket 775 mobo. uw0tm8?


----------



## derickwm

Watch, it will happen.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Yup, see that all the time. It's like people think EK has unlimited time and budget to produce blocks for every random motherboard and graphics card produced in the last 5 years. That and the constant complaints about how Asus gets the most blocks. Gets old really quick.


----------



## CaliLife17

Can I get a water block for my Raspberry Pi?


----------



## szeged

i want a waterblock for my HTC one max please.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i want a waterblock for my HTC one max please.


Do it your self







Wink


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i want a waterblock for my HTC one max please.


I can make you one, Here is a picture of what it will mostly look like.


----------



## szeged

im gonna strap a supremacy to the back of my phone so i can play piano tiles without burning my hands.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Daylight pictures of 240 mm rad with the white painting. 480 mm rad almost done.


----------



## VSG

Nice job! That reminds me Bill's video about the primer HWL rads:






Hopefully there is enough interest for these to come out. It would be cool for primer-only rads/cases to come out as options (I know about the CL primer only option).


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nice job! That reminds me Bill's video about the primer HWL rads:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully there is enough interest for these to come out. It would be cool for primer-only rads/cases to come out as options (I know about the CL primer only option).


Thks! I did enjoy that video in fact, watch it a couple of days ago before starting painting the rads. I didn't hang the rad on the wire however I use an old lcd box as my paint room in my garden. Yeah, fully agree. Would be nice to have HWLabs and others companies in fact to sell the rads in primer painting.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nice job! That reminds me Bill's video about the primer HWL rads:
> 
> Hopefully there is enough interest for these to come out. It would be cool for primer-only rads/cases to come out as options (I know about the CL primer only option).


I agree that that would be a great idea. I have yet to paint a radiator but I plan to on the next build (I always say "Im going to do that next time, btw)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nice job! That reminds me Bill's video about the primer HWL rads:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully there is enough interest for these to come out. It would be cool for primer-only rads/cases to come out as options (I know about the CL primer only option).


Ohhhhh my.... Those would be absolutely AMAZING to get one's hands on, especially if powdercoating the primer wouldn't cause any performance issues...


----------



## bob808

Black is the best color for rads, but if you want a different color, just paint them. As long as you don't paint the fins, it wont hurt anything.


----------



## VSG

^ Pretty much.

For those wanting the primer versions (also can work as white rads if you aren't picky about shades and textures): http://www.hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/contact-us


----------



## Raul-7

Anyone else hate summer? Can't wait until fall and winter so these damn temps can go down.


----------



## CaliLife17

Anyone know where else i can order EK parts from. I originally ordered a EK X3 Multiport top from PCPCS, but they sent me a bottom instead. After talking to them it turned out all of their tops were mislabeled (they have now made the whole product out of stock on their site). So then i ordered from FrozenCPU, but just got the package friday, and same thing. Bag said Top, but it actually was a bottom, so I'm thinking they have the same issued, the whole stock is mislabeled. Emailed them, but won't hear back till probably Monday.

Cant find this part anywhere that would get to me in a quick manner. Dazmode is like a week unless i want to pay $100, Aquatuning doesn't have any, NCIX.ca doesn't have any, nothing on eBay or Amazon.

I can always order from EKWB's shop, but i have read they take long to just process orders.

Anyone have any ideas where else i can look?


----------



## VSG

Well there was HellFire Toyz but he seems to have taken a break or is moving to a new location. Your best bet is likely EKWB shop directly and bugging Derick to help out in case of a delay.


----------



## derickwm

Orders don't take long, particularly small orders and easy ones that aren't OOS.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well there was HellFire Toyz but he seems to have taken a break or is moving to a new location. Your best bet is likely EKWB shop directly and bugging Derick to help out in case of a delay.


Ya Hellfire's Amazon and eBay shop were bare, didn't have anything listed, so I think they are still moving. Nothing on the Classifieds here. Its looking more and more like I will have to order from EKWB.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Black is the best color for rads, but if you want a different color, just paint them. As long as you don't paint the fins, it wont hurt anything.


Out of curiosity... Why is black "best"? Just a really curious question ^_^


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Out of curiosity... Why is black "best"? Just a really curious question ^_^


because they are bigger.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Oh you!


----------



## szeged




----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> because they are bigger.


*snickers* You win the internets. Nah, reason why I was wondering about primer was if I do go with a custom coating when I order a Case Labs S8 it's tempting to get a similar coating on the radiators.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Can I get a water block for my Raspberry Pi?


Sure you can!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1410604/build-log-water-cooled-raspberry-pi-mod-build/
http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2013/05/01/water-cooled-raspberry-pi-computer-complete/1
http://finniss.net/water-cooled-raspberry-pi/


----------



## Buehlar

My 2nd build...may I become a 2x member of the w/c club?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Very interesting way to do the pci-e cables Buehlar. I like it a lot actually. Well done.


----------



## VSG

Indeed, very cool!

On a side note, for those on the Haswell-E platform with the EK Supremacy Evo they just updated their manual to let us know that the Insert I2, Jetplate J1 is the optimal configuration for it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> My 2nd build...may I become a 2x member of the w/c club?


Stunning!


----------



## spiderloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> My 2nd build...may I become a 2x member of the w/c club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow dang is that a computer or lab equipment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks awsome


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Loop order doesn't matter, so long as it's res -> pump.
> 
> I see you have a 4770k. Maybe it's just an awful TIM-application by Intel - how were your temps before this?
> 
> What pump are you using? D5 I assume?
> 
> Does the radiator sides (short-end where there is the tank) get really warm?
> Because my 2500k loads at just under 50'c with the same setup, and the rad gets warm to the touch, but slightly.


I am getting the same temps that I did with an H100i to be exact. On realbench 2.2 15min test using up to 16gb of ram. 100% load at 15min maxes at 87c. I was playing fifa 15 demo full settings at 70c.

I haven't felt the side of the Rad yet. But I have reapplied my thermal paste 3 times yesterday. Getting 87c max on Realbench everytime.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Finally! Im allowed to post pics.



Log up today or tomorrow.....


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Finally! Im allowed to post pics.
> 
> Log up today or tomorrow.....


I'm excited to see your next build, the computers you build are always good


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I'm on hold on my systems till I can buy some distilled water, and finer grit sandpaper and plastx for my pump tops.

Finished porting the bitspower d5 I need some flow meters now and a new bitspower to compare with my port and polish.

I want to get another jacuzzi pump for my 2nd system if it works good I'll make another go at it


----------



## rolldog

I'm getting there, slowly. I used some UV Green Plasti Dip to paint the armor on my MB.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Finally! Im allowed to post pics.
> 
> Log up today or tomorrow.....


Yes!


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting there, slowly. I used some UV Green Plasti Dip to paint the armor on my MB.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


The LED strip you see isn't visible once I put the side of the case on with the window. I have one there, one running along the side top to bottom, and one running along the top. These things just came out and are badass. They're remote control and I can change the light to 14 different colors. It also has 4 lighting schemes, like slowly fading from one color to the next, strobe effects, etc. So if you wanted to give your case a little different look, you can change the color or change them to UV so everything glows, like my custom sleeved cables or the armor on my MB, which is painted a UV Green.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Cmon then,get the kettle on.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1513201/lumo/0_20


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cmon then,get the kettle on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1513201/lumo/0_20


Not a big tea guy, but can I crack a beer instead?


----------



## CaliLife17

Got my two GTX Nemesis 480's in today. First thing i did was tape back those flaps, as they really is a bad design choice. Also the tough armor doesn't look as bad as it did in the photos. Not bad enough to pay $120 shipping or the flat EU version.

Will flush them tonight with some distilled water and continue my build. Though i hear HWLabs are much more cleaner that AlphaCool Rads.


----------



## lowfat

You don't flush with distilled. You flush with boiling tap water. Do this until no more debris. Then rinse with distilled.


----------



## VSG

Ya, as I said that finish is more appealing in person when you see and feel it. I've also done a Mayhems Blitz run on the Nemesis rads I got last week and they were quite clean indeed so one could argue (if using pH sensitive coolants that is) that part of the premium has been saved over the cost of a Mayhems Blitz Pro kit.

Also, what lowfat said. Don't waste distilled water with the flushing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You don't flush with distilled. You flush with boiling tap water. Do this until no more debris. Then rinse with distilled.


This.


----------



## CaliLife17

I always thought Boiling water was never good to put through a Rad.

I will be running 2 Nickel GPU Blocks, 1 Nickel Supremacy Evo, and these 2 Rads. Using Mayhems X1 coolant Clear, with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in UV Blue. So I THINK (not 100%) i should be okay on the pH sensitive front


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> I always thought Boiling water was never good to put through a Rad.
> 
> I will be running 2 Nickel GPU Blocks, 1 Nickel Supremacy Evo, and these 2 Rads. Using Mayhems X1 coolant Clear, with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in UV Blue. So I THINK (not 100%) i should be okay on the pH sensitive front


Its not good to have in a sealed rad then cool.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> I always thought Boiling water was never good to put through a Rad.
> 
> I will be running 2 Nickel GPU Blocks, 1 Nickel Supremacy Evo, and these 2 Rads. Using Mayhems X1 coolant Clear, with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in UV Blue. So I THINK (not 100%) i should be okay on the pH sensitive front


Still clean it with tap boiling water and then rinse with distil. Boil the water (if you don't want to put it in the rad with the bubbles still on it let it drop the temp for a few seconds







) ant put it on the rad and shake a little bit. Repeat the process several times until the water come up clean. It helps to use a coffee filter to inspect the liquid coming out of the rad. Also helps if you have a white cup or something like that to pour the content out of the rad and inspect the flush.


----------



## CaliLife17

Awesome thanks for the help Guys. I have a White sink so that should work. Guess i will be boiling some water tonight.







+Rep


----------



## cyphon

Recommend gloves/oven mitts/etc when putting the boiling water in the rads









Rads do their job well and pull the heat from boiling water you put in to the metal and then directly to your hands


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Recommend gloves/oven mitts/etc when putting the boiling water in the rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rads do their job well and pull the heat from boiling water you put in to the metal and then directly to your hands


Exactly. Without the mitts, your hands will be burnt instantly.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Recommend gloves/oven mitts/etc when putting the boiling water in the rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rads do their job well and pull the heat from boiling water you put in to the metal and then directly to your hands


Honestly I probably would of done it bare hand and burned myself, would of not even though of that. But now that you mention it, im like oh ya DUH.

Here's to not melting my hands off.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Honestly I probably would of done it bare hand and burned myself, would of not even though of that. But now that you mention it, im like oh ya DUH.
> 
> Here's to not melting my hands off.


----------



## ozzy1925

I only have 1 blitz pro kit for my alphacool 2x ut 60 480mm + 1x ut 60 240mm.As i heard 1 kit is not enough to clean all 3 rads May be enough for 2x ut 60 480mm?
Previously i did flushed them 7-8 times with boiling tap water until i see nothing bad .Should i use blitz pro as much as i can then leave others as is?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Very interesting way to do the pci-e cables Buehlar. I like it a lot actually. Well done.


Thanks! The results were an attempt to resemble spark-plug wires.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Stunning!


Thank you sir!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderloser*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> My 2nd build...may I become a 2x member of the w/c club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow dang is that a computer or lab equipment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks awsome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well it's a bit of both. LOL
> 
> Thanks guys. Just entered in this month's MOTM
Click to expand...


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I only have 1 blitz pro kit for my alphacool 2x ut 60 480mm + 1x ut 60 240mm.As i heard 1 kit is not enough to clean all 3 rads May be enough for 2x ut 60 480mm?
> Previously i did flushed them 7-8 times with boiling tap water until i see nothing bad .Should i use blitz pro as much as i can then leave others as is?


I didn't use blitz pro or anything similar when I flushed my 2 UT60's. I just flushed it with boiling water and finally rinsed it with distilled.

Havent had a problem.

.... yet. *knock on wood*


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I didn't use blitz pro or anything similar when I flushed my 2 UT60's. I just flushed it with boiling water and finally rinsed it with distilled.
> 
> Havent had a problem.
> 
> .... yet. *knock on wood*


A good hot water flush is plenty fine for most loops. It's a tried and true method that's worked well for many for years now.

However, if you are going to run coolants like Mayhems (& EK's) Pastel then it may not be enough, especially with Alphacool / Phobya rads. There's been a LOT of posts in the Mayhems Club thread for a long time now from people complaining that their coolant has become discolored. That's mainly what the Blitz kit was designed to alleviate.


----------



## iBored

On the topic of flushing rads, it's only for rads that are soldered right? What about something like the aqc ams rads?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> On the topic of flushing rads, it's only for rads that are soldered right? What about something like the aqc ams rads?


in theory those rads are a lot cleaner. In any case I would flush it a little bit just to make sure there is nothing there.

Testing the color scheme for the upcoming build. Rads are done and was wondering how would look with the fluid/fittings/rad/fans combination. Looks more green in the picture that actually is (more dark grey at live). I like it


----------



## lowfat

Pastels are hard to photograph with the correct colour. Glad you are trying your own shade out. Custom colours ftw.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A good hot water flush is plenty fine for most loops. It's a tried and true method that's worked well for many for years now.
> 
> However, if you are going to run coolants like Mayhems (& EK's) Pastel then it may not be enough, especially with Alphacool / Phobya rads. There's been a LOT of posts in the Mayhems Club thread for a long time now from people complaining that their coolant has become discolored. That's mainly what the Blitz kit was designed to alleviate.


I just picked up a bottle of Ek pastel Fluid. Do you think it will provide equal or higher temps compared to distilled water?









Looking for another Opinion.

The Cautious One


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I just picked up a bottle of Ek pastel Fluid. Do you think it will provide equal or higher temps compared to distilled water?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for another Opinion.
> 
> The Cautious One


You can read about it here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/

and here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

and form your opinion. That been said Ek pastel (mayhems) are very good fluid.

Thank you @lowfat







Taking my time with this build. Will be my third rig under water and I think am improving/learning with each build:

First one:


Second one:


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I didn't use blitz pro or anything similar when I flushed my 2 UT60's. I just flushed it with boiling water and finally rinsed it with distilled.
> 
> Havent had a problem.
> 
> .... yet. *knock on wood*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A good hot water flush is plenty fine for most loops. It's a tried and true method that's worked well for many for years now.
> 
> However, if you are going to run coolants like Mayhems (& EK's) Pastel then it may not be enough, especially with Alphacool / Phobya rads. There's been a LOT of posts in the Mayhems Club thread for a long time now from people complaining that their coolant has become discolored. That's mainly what the Blitz kit was designed to alleviate.


i am worried because i will use pre mix pastel


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Testing the color scheme for the upcoming build.


that grey is awesome. really digging it so far.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can read about it here:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
> 
> and here:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
> 
> and form your opinion. That been said Ek pastel (mayhems) are very good fluid.
> 
> Thank you @lowfat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taking my time with this build. Will be my third rig under water and I think am improving/learning with each build:
> 
> First one:
> 
> 
> Second one:


Huge improvement on the second build to the first one. But i see the first build can have some work arounds to avoid the external rad mount. anyhow.. You gotta love your work


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> On the topic of flushing rads, it's only for rads that are soldered right? What about something like the aqc ams rads?


AMS rads do not need flushing,they are not soldered.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I just picked up a bottle of Ek pastel Fluid. Do you think it will provide equal or higher temps compared to distilled water?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for another Opinion.
> 
> The Cautious One


Typically the water temp on pastel is just slightly higher. The trade off is the looks and a 3-year in-system lifespan. The temp difference is really nothing that will cause you any real performance impact unless you are cutting it close with temps on rediculous OCs to begin with.

I like the fact that I can leave it in the system w/o maintenance for what ends up being the life of my system


----------



## Nichismo

Sup everyone, just thought id display my near finished X99 build....

The cabling hasnt been done, but i been so far behind and eager to do some new benchmarks that I just did a half ass job for the moment.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Sup everyone, just thought id display my near finished X99 build....
> 
> The cabling hasnt been done, but i been so far behind and eager to do some new benchmarks that I just did a half ass job for the moment.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great man!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A good hot water flush is plenty fine for most loops. It's a tried and true method that's worked well for many for years now.
> 
> However, if you are going to run coolants like Mayhems (& EK's) Pastel then it may not be enough, especially with Alphacool / Phobya rads. There's been a LOT of posts in the Mayhems Club thread for a long time now from people complaining that their coolant has become discolored. That's mainly what the Blitz kit was designed to alleviate.


Ahh... good to know. I just keep it simple for myself. So no coloured coolant for me. Just plain distilled water.


----------



## CaliLife17

Did a boiling water flush on both of my rads last night. took about 6 times on each to clean them out completely. lots of green specs coming out. Then did 2 rinses with Distilled water.

Though i was stupid on the first Rad and after i poured the boiling water in, i capped the 2 holes, and shook it for about a min or 2 at the longest, then took off the plugs and poured it out. But after i did the first Rad I realized that I probably should not of done that, as im sure pressure was building up in the rad from the steam, and when i took off the cap, im pretty sure it made a sound of decompressing like a shivering sound.

So that was really dumb, and on the second Rad i always left 1 port open when i cleaned it.

Do you guys think i could of damaged my first radiator? Debating whether to buy another one, just in case i did damage it and swap it out with the new one i buy


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Did a boiling water flush on both of my rads last night. took about 6 times on each to clean them out completely. lots of green specs coming out. Then did 2 rinses with Distilled water.
> 
> Though i was stupid on the first Rad and after i poured the boiling water in, i capped the 2 holes, and shook it for about a min or 2 at the longest, then took off the plugs and poured it out. But after i did the first Rad I realized that I probably should not of done that, as im sure pressure was building up in the rad from the steam, and when i took off the cap, im pretty sure it made a sound of decompressing like a shivering sound.
> 
> So that was really dumb, and on the second Rad i always left 1 port open when i cleaned it.
> 
> Do you guys think i could of damaged my first radiator? Debating whether to buy another one, just in case i did damage it and swap it out with the new one i buy


Nah, not likely. In any case test the rad out of the loop. Plug to pump/reservoir and run it for a while.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Looks great man!


Thank you so much

I still need to do the cabling, i plan on perhaps purchasing PCI 6 and 8 pin extensions for the GPUs and 24 pin ATX cables... I was thinking of doing red for the cards and white for the CPU 8 pin and 24 pin cables, so they match the coolants. If I do, should I get red with red connectors? or red and black? or maybe something diff in general? Id really appreciate any input or constructive criticism you may have









thanks again


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Sup everyone, just thought id display my near finished X99 build....
> 
> The cabling hasnt been done, but i been so far behind and eager to do some new benchmarks that I just did a half ass job for the moment.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome job. Love the red/white dual loop








I've been thinking of upgrading myself and have been reading about the overclocking issues over in RVE thread. I understand that ASUS designed their own 2011 sockets for the RVE with a few extra pins.

Does the deluxe the same socket as the RVE?

Please keep us posted on how the Deluxe board performes for you.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Awesome job. Love the red/white dual loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been thinking of upgrading myself and have been reading about the overclocking issues over in RVE thread. I understand that ASUS designed their own 2011 sockets for the RVE with a few extra pins.
> 
> Does the deluxe the same socket as the RVE?
> 
> Please keep us posted on how the Deluxe board performes for you.


thank you very much

yes, im pretty sure they share the same ASUS exclusive features socket-wise. So far I havnt done any overclocking really, aside from 4.2ghz which didnt require me to make any voltage changes . However, I cant get my Vengeance dimms to go above 2133mhz, even though they are rated for 2800. I will definately keep posted


----------



## andytom69

my little work


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Typically the water temp on pastel is just slightly higher. The trade off is the looks and a 3-year in-system lifespan. The temp difference is really nothing that will cause you any real performance impact unless you are cutting it close with temps on rediculous OCs to begin with.
> 
> I like the fact that I can leave it in the system w/o maintenance for what ends up being the life of my system






I appreciate the feedback. Ive seen almost no temp difference from distilled to pastel. So I am glad I got a "light" fluid that won't retain the heat as long. Hope yall enjoy my first rig under water. Went from the H100i To this!!


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the feedback. Ive seen almost no temp difference from distilled to pastel. So I am glad I got a "light" fluid that won't retain the heat as long. Hope yall enjoy my first rig under water. Went from the H100i To this!!


Looking sweet there! I like the sleeving and RAM bar too








Only thing missing is a 240 in the front and a water block on the GPU









*Edit
Also missing an update in the rig info







still says H100i


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the feedback. Ive seen almost no temp difference from distilled to pastel. So I am glad I got a "light" fluid that won't retain the heat as long. Hope yall enjoy my first rig under water. Went from the H100i To this!!


Looks fantastic!
Why don't you run the loop back into the top of the res, as opposed to the bottom? It'd clean the tube up quite a bit. You could put the t-line on the outlet of the pump instead of the inlet, then run a straight fitting off the cpu block to a 90° fitting on top of the res. Just a thought.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the feedback. Ive seen almost no temp difference from distilled to pastel. So I am glad I got a "light" fluid that won't retain the heat as long. Hope yall enjoy my first rig under water. Went from the H100i To this!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks fantastic!
> Why don't you run the loop back into the top of the res, as opposed to the bottom? It'd clean the tube up quite a bit. You could put the t-line on the outlet of the pump instead of the inlet, then run a straight fitting off the cpu block to a 90° fitting on top of the res. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

It's a Photon res. There's no good way to use the top as an inlet. Even if you did use an M20 to G1/4 adapter there's no way to add an internal tube to bring the in-flow below the fill line in the res so as soon as you turned the pump off all the air would escape out the top-inlet tube, making the res all but useless to bleed air from your loop, and that's pretty much the main reason for having a res in the first place.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also I'd swap the lines on the rad to clean up your lines a bit







Just run a 90 off the block so you get a straight line to/from the rad


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Typically the water temp on pastel is just slightly higher. The trade off is the looks and a 3-year in-system lifespan. The temp difference is really nothing that will cause you any real performance impact unless you are cutting it close with temps on rediculous OCs to begin with.
> 
> I like the fact that I can leave it in the system w/o maintenance for what ends up being the life of my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the feedback. Ive seen almost no temp difference from distilled to pastel. So I am glad I got a "light" fluid that won't retain the heat as long. Hope yall enjoy my first rig under water. Went from the H100i To this!!
Click to expand...

You can try to run the tubes behind on the back it would clean up the runs as well


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> You can try to run the tubes behind on the back it would clean up the runs as well


Pretty sure you guys have different cases. (900D vs 750D) He could run it behind, but the 750D doesn't have the same kind of routing options as the 900D.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> You can try to run the tubes behind on the back it would clean up the runs as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure you guys have different cases. (900D vs 750D) He could run it behind, but the 750D doesn't have the same kind of routing options as the 900D.
Click to expand...

Roger that is a solid copy however it is always an option that he might not have thought of


----------



## easynator

My first build. What do you think?


----------



## VSG

Looks great is what I think


----------



## Kimir

For a first build, it's amazing!


----------



## lowfat

Had to spend some time in the hotel so I did a few touchups on the Supreme HFs.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Had to spend some time in the hotel so I did a few touchups on the Supreme HFs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Absolutely beautiful, lowfat. Your polishing jobs make me wish I was patient enough to do some.


----------



## Gabrielzm

^^ Looks great@lowfat. But do you carry around your blocks on your business travels?


----------



## Alex132

Got a new CPU block


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new CPU block


What's with the heatsinks on the GPU memory? Does it really get that hot?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Absolutely beautiful, lowfat. Your polishing jobs make me wish I was patient enough to do some.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^ Looks great@lowfat. But do you carry around your blocks on your business travels?


I knew I would have some down time in the evening so I took the tops and some PlastX with me.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new CPU block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's with the heatsinks on the GPU memory? Does it really get that hot?
Click to expand...

Had them laying around spare, and even with them on the VRMs - I can't touch them after gaming they're that hot.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Had them laying around spare, and even with them on the VRMs - I can't touch them after gaming they're that hot.


Huh... The chips on my 690 don't seem to be anywhere near that bad.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Different gpus have different temps based on the cards layout.

Vrm, mosfets, and the mem chips all get very hot.

Especially with the gk110 series

Gk104 was generally a much cooler platform to begin with


----------



## timerwin63

We're both running 690s, I believe. Therefore, logically, it's be expected for them to behave similarly, despite slight differences that occur due to manufacturing processes


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Had them laying around spare, and even with them on the VRMs - I can't touch them after gaming they're that hot.
> 
> 
> 
> Huh... The chips on my 690 don't seem to be anywhere near that bad.
Click to expand...

Really? Odd... even with something like Valley running?

I mean heck, just idling (GPU0+1 are below 30'c) the VRMs are warm to the touch (so guessing ~35-38'c). And when watching a movie they get _much_ hotter (I'd guess upper 60s).

Chances are I just got a bad roll-of-the-die on my GPU, I can't even overclock my memory by ~30mhz without it crashing


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Oh i though he had a 780 of some sort. Overclocking, fan settings could account for temp difference, he might have some crappy tim or something along those lines.

Mosfets get hot with added voltage


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Oh i though he had a 780 of some sort. Overclocking, fan settings could account for temp difference, he might have some crappy tim or something along those lines.
> 
> Mosfets get hot with added voltage


Running 100% stock, also haven't changed the TIM on the GPUs because I can't remove the screws (yes tried all methods). The actual GPU temps are fine though, stock hit low 80s in games. Overclocked they hit high 90s though


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Really? Odd... even with something like Valley running?
> 
> I mean heck, just idling (GPU0+1 are below 30'c) the VRMs are warm to the touch (so guessing ~35-38'c). And when watching a movie they get _much_ hotter (I'd guess upper 60s).
> 
> Chances are I just got a bad roll-of-the-die on my GPU, I can't even overclock my memory by ~30mhz without it crashing


I'll let you know when I get put of class, but I'm pretty sure we're about even for idle temps. I don't think my low-load (i.e. movies, web browsing, etc) are are anywhere near that high, though. Maybe low-mid 70's during gaming.

Which is still hot, but not hot enough that I'd be unable to touch a heatsink on them.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Running 100% stock, also haven't changed the TIM on the GPUs because I can't remove the screws (yes tried all methods). The actual GPU temps are fine though, stock hit low 80s in games. Overclocked they hit high 90s though


Can't remove the screws? I was waiting until I got my waterblock to pull off the heatsink. What's so difficult about it?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Really? Odd... even with something like Valley running?
> 
> I mean heck, just idling (GPU0+1 are below 30'c) the VRMs are warm to the touch (so guessing ~35-38'c). And when watching a movie they get _much_ hotter (I'd guess upper 60s).
> 
> Chances are I just got a bad roll-of-the-die on my GPU, I can't even overclock my memory by ~30mhz without it crashing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let you know when I get put of class, but I'm pretty sure we're about even for idle temps. I don't think my low-load (i.e. movies, web browsing, etc) are are anywhere near that high, though. Maybe low-mid 70's during gaming.
> 
> Which is still hot, but not hot enough that I'd be unable to touch a heatsink on them.
Click to expand...

The VRMs? Try a benchmark or demanding game and then see... without the heatsinks I remember touching them once and it honestly felt like 100'c+

Out of interest, my idle GPU core temps are 29/28 right now. Watching a 1080p 10bit movie they go to 36/57. Playing War Thunder they go to 83/86.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Running 100% stock, also haven't changed the TIM on the GPUs because I can't remove the screws (yes tried all methods). The actual GPU temps are fine though, stock hit low 80s in games. Overclocked they hit high 90s though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't remove the screws? I was waiting until I got my waterblock to pull off the heatsink. What's so difficult about it?
Click to expand...

They're SUPER, SUPER soft. Basically like lead.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Had to spend some time in the hotel so I did a few touchups on the Supreme HFs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Still my favorite EK block by far.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still my favorite EK block by far.


I personally would like a clean Supremecy (non Evo) but w/ the EK logo etched like the Supreme HF.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I personally would like a clean Supremecy (non Evo) but w/ the EK logo etched like the Supreme HF.


I support that motion, but please make an EVO version as well


----------



## VSG

I know Daz had the special Canadian Maple leaf Supremacy made, so it isn't out of the quetions. There's also the limited edition Red Harbringer etched Supremacy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still my favorite EK block by far.
> 
> 
> 
> I personally would like a clean Supremecy (non Evo) but w/ the EK logo etched like the Supreme HF.
Click to expand...

Nah,the newer top is bulkier compared to that Supreme,it looked so good in Delrin....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I know Daz had the special Canadian Maple leaf Supremacy made, so it isn't out of the quetions. There's also the limited edition Red Harbringer etched Supremacy.


Niko is pretty open to a lot of things if he gets a chance to dick about with his milling center


----------



## chefproject

It has be a while, i have posted here, so did upgrade my system with a second HIS HD7870. So i am running crossfire now for gaming and folding @ 1245 Mhz coreclock and 1450 Mhz memoryclock



I also did put my system into a Corsair 900D for some space to add a second 480 rad, so got 2 480's one Monsta and one 45 thick one.

Here some pics, but it's not finished yet still have to do some cable arrangement and shortening of the PCI-E cables, but see yourself















Specs of the whole system:

MB: ASUS P8Z77 V-Pro
CPU: i5 3570k delidded and naked mount @ 4,8 Ghz
RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 Mhz 9-11-10-27
HD: 2 x 2 TB Seagate Barracudas
SSD: 2 x Kingston HyperX 128 GB
RADS: 1 x 480 Monsta and 1 480 45mm thickness
Blocks: all EK Supremacy clear and 2 x FC 7870
Tubing: Tygoon clear

When i got some time i gonna rebuild the whole thing with some more modding for nicer and cleaner looks

Greetings and regards Chefproject


----------



## snef

next: Tubing


----------



## Pimphare

Oh wow snef, that's stellar! Great lighting and photos. Love the color scheme too.


----------



## WiSK

Snef with the magic UV


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> next: Tubing


I thought my monitor broke down for a split second. Wonderful colors !


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Roger that is a solid copy however it is always an option that he might not have thought of


I did try it!! I bought a enzoteck 90degree fitting to route the tubing around the backside. It was to big to fit next to the side exaust wall and give me room to mount the rad. If I can find a bitspower 90degree angled fitting im golden. Will re-route tubing as per Overclock.net.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Snef...good lord man...you just don't stop


----------



## stickg1

That looks awesome snef, can we call it "the slinky killer"?


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That looks awesome snef, can we call it "the slinky killer"?


----------



## VSG

Some pictures of the new Swiftech mcp50x pump:





What's better than 1 mcp50x? Why, 2 of course!



Once my manometer gets here, I will do a mcp50x vs mcp35x (dual pump-off?) test and overview as part of an mcp50x review. Anything particular questions/interests? I will try my best to handle them.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Some pictures of the new Swiftech mcp50x pump:
> 
> Once my manometer gets here, I will do a mcp50x vs mcp35x (dual pump-off?) test and overview as part of an mcp50x review. Anything particular questions/interests? I will try my best to handle them.


Could you compare the noise output between it, the DDC and the D5?


----------



## VSG

Sure thing, I have a sound meter incoming for that as well as a manometer. I already have an Aquaero with a flowmeter for control and flowrate measurements.


----------



## djriful

Before with Mayhem Ice Pastel



Now with Distilled + Dazmode Protector (just clear)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Some pictures of the new Swiftech mcp50x pump:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's better than 1 mcp50x? Why, 2 of course!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once my manometer gets here, I will do a mcp50x vs mcp35x (dual pump-off?) test and overview as part of an mcp50x review. Anything particular questions/interests? I will try my best to handle them.


How well each could handle the restriction of something like a MO-RA (you've already mentioned this), or even 4x360mm radiators ^_^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Before with Mayhem Ice Pastel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with Distilled + Dazmode Protector (just clear)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love how absolutely GORGEOUS and refined that looks!


----------



## timerwin63

Well after that, mine's gonna look a bit dull... Anyway, after all the recommendations for people to clean up their loops, I decided to do the same to mine. Pardon the cruddy cell pics.

Before:


After:


Not a huge change, but I pulled out an unnecessary bend and I like the result.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I like the tidy look. Also, nice Keurig B/K60 on your desk! ^_^


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Well after that, mine's gonna look a bit dull... Anyway, after all the recommendations for people to clean up their loops, I decided to do the same to mine. Pardon the cruddy cell pics.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Not a huge change, but I pulled out an unnecessary bend and I like the result.


Nice. You know what I miss most about the look of my system after getting a full waterblock and backplate for my EVGA GeForce GTX 780ti Superclocked graphics card? The green glowing GeForce on the side of the card. I took apart the stock heatsink and fan assembly, and salvaged to glowing logo. I'm going to figure out a way to add it back, but on the side of my waterblock. All it is is green acrylic (or something) with LEDs covered with black rubber. It kind of looked like a thermal pad. The LED that makes it glow is a really small 2 pin connector, just like cold cathode tubes have that plug into that ugly blue box. I'm going to figure something out.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Nice. You know what I miss most about the look of my system after getting a full waterblock and backplate for my EVGA GeForce GTX 780ti Superclocked graphics card? The green glowing GeForce on the side of the card. I took apart the stock heatsink and fan assembly, and salvaged to glowing logo. I'm going to figure out a way to add it back, but on the side of my waterblock. All it is is green acrylic (or something) with LEDs covered with black rubber. It kind of looked like a thermal pad. The LED that makes it glow is a really small 2 pin connector, just like cold cathode tubes have that plug into that ugly blue box. I'm going to figure something out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


I figured out the other day that the green is just painted on there, instead of being part of the material. I think I'm gonna sand the paint off and let have it be a white logo, to match my build.


----------



## rolldog

Almost finished. Here are the specs:

Little Devil PC-V8 Black on Green Case
Corsair AX1200I Digital ATX/EPS Modular 80 Plus Platinum
ASUS MAXIMUS VI FORMULA LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX gaming board with double-sided ROG Armor, 23C-degrees cooler CrossChill and 120dB SNR, 600ohm audio
Intel Core i7-4770K Haswell Quad-Core 3.5GHz LGA 1150 84W Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics
Lamptron CM615 - 6 Channel Touchscreen Liquid Cooling Controller - Black
G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000)
EVGA GeForce GTX 780ti Superclocked 3GB GDDR5 384 bit Dual Link DVI-D, DVI-I, HDMI, DP, SLI Ready Graphics Card
Asus ROG Front Base Dual Bay Gaming Panel Multi Function monitoring and overclocking display panel
Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SATA 6Gbps Solid State Drive
Seagate 2TB Barracuda SATA HDD
Hitachi 1TB SATA HDD
Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
Koolance-380I Intel Liquid Cooling CPU Block
DarkSide CONNECT Dimmable 12" Modular LED Strip - RGB - Black Sleeved
EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir (6 Total Ports)
EK ASUS Maximus VI Formula Liquid Cooling Block Set - Nickel+Acetal (replacing ASUS Cross Chill System plus Z87 waterblock)
EK GeForce 780 GTX Ti VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel + Acetal (EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal+Nickel) with the back plate
EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ - Laing D5 & Swiftech MCP-650/655 (EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal) Alphacool VPP Single Edition Pump
3/8"x5/8" G1/4 Threaded Compression Nozzles
Koolance INS-FM19 Coolant Flow Meter w/ flow meter frequency adapter
Koolance 90 Degree Rotary Elbows
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"IDx5/8"OD - 10ft Atomic UV Green
PrimoChill Liquid Utopia Bomb Bottle
EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 480 XTX Series Radiator
EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 360 XTX Series Radiator
Bitspower G1/4" Threaded Male to Male Rotary Extender
Bitspower G1/4" Mini Valve
EK GeForce 780 GTX Ti VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel+Acetal w/ EK 780/Titan SE/780 Ti Backplate
EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ-Laing D5 & Swiftech MCP655 Alphacool VPP Single Edition Pump
4-Pin Power Distribution PCB 5xWay Block - 2 ea
Cougar 120mm X 25mm CFD Series LED Fan - Green LED - 8ea
Cougar 140mm X 25mm CFD Series LED Fan - Green LED - 2 ea
















I'm not keeping the lights blue. As you may have noticed, I can change the color to whatever I want.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I like the tidy look. Also, nice Keurig B/K60 on your desk! ^_^


Thanks! And the Keurig is great for getting up in the morning or late-night sessions. No need to go to the dining hall on my way to class. Plus, my aunt works at Green Mountain Coffee (the company that owns Keurig), so we get practically free stuff. Their coffee's so good it's hard to drink stuff while I'm out-of-state.

@rolldog Lovin the green, man.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Thanks! And the Keurig is great for getting up in the morning or late-night sessions. No need to go to the dining hall on my way to class. Plus, my aunt works at Green Mountain Coffee (the company that owns Keurig), so we get practically free stuff. Their coffee's so good it's hard to drink stuff while I'm out-of-state.
> 
> @rolldog Lovin the green, man.


I think we're technically known as Keurig Green Mountain now, at least as of March this year ^_^ I only say that because I too work for them, although up in the Canadian branch







Great company, lovely benefits, and staff coffee is great to have! So hoping we get machines this year for Christmas, although the turkey last year was nice too! GMCR's Dark Magic is absolutely heavenly to drink, but lately my favourite has been Coffee People's Black Tiger. Mmmm, deliciously dark!

Wish I had room for a Keurig on my desk ^_^


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I think we're technically known as Keurig Green Mountain now, at least as of March this year ^_^ I only say that because I too work for them, although up in the Canadian branch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great company, lovely benefits, and staff coffee is great to have! So hoping we get machines this year for Christmas, although the turkey last year was nice too! GMCR's Dark Magic is absolutely heavenly to drink, but lately my favourite has been Coffee People's Black Tiger. Mmmm, deliciously dark!
> 
> Wish I had room for a Keurig on my desk ^_^


Representin' from the home state! And yeah, I dunno if we'll ever be calling them Keurig Green Mountain. It's basically bred into us. Even my high school had GMCR stuff. I just started my foray into heavier flavors, but I think Caramel Vanilla Creme may still be at the top of my list.


----------



## pooios

MY First 600t watercooled


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooios*
> 
> MY First 600t watercooled
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Red1776

The loop layout



The side panel of the 5.25" bays is getting an LED/ aluminum framed glass panel


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Roger that is a solid copy however it is always an option that he might not have thought of
> 
> 
> 
> I did try it!! I bought a enzoteck 90degree fitting to route the tubing around the backside. It was to big to fit next to the side exaust wall and give me room to mount the rad. If I can find a bitspower 90degree angled fitting im golden. Will re-route tubing as per Overclock.net.
Click to expand...

I wish I was home right now I would send you some fittings for free I over ordered by about 30


----------



## Juthos

My version of the Lian Li pc v 358






Front panel ispired by B-'s PROTO7YPE


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My version of the Lian Li pc v 358
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front panel ispired by B-'s PROTO7YPE


That's just awesome dude.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

There is a massive amount of image manipulation there Snef...

Looks interesting tho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> My version of the Lian Li pc v 358
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front panel ispired by B-'s PROTO7YPE


Thanks! That build has stalled until the two I have going on have finished....a lot of my CNC budget got swallowed up with those...

And yes,I know I didn't spoiler but im on my phone @work...like a baws.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> My version of the Lian Li pc v 358
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front panel ispired by B-'s PROTO7YPE


That tubing is just pretty sweet done


----------



## Gobigorgohome

You guys think I should do the switch from EK-Supremacy Full Nickel to EK-Supremacy Full Nickel EVO? Will be cooling a 4930K @ around 1,4 volts. I have the "Elite" bracket and I guess that the new EVO-blocks are the same size as the normal Supremacy? If not, I will not consider it either.


----------



## Ramzinho

From the reviews i saw the difference is 1-2 degrees.. if you think that's worth it for your daily tasks Do it


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> My version of the Lian Li pc v 358
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front panel ispired by B-'s PROTO7YPE


Pretty sweet dude. I like the loop design, as it is quite unique.

Just a thought....chromed out copper tubing would have been amazing with that layout







(the blue acrylic isn't bad at all, as I like that too)


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I like the tidy look. Also, nice Keurig B/K60 on your desk! ^_^
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! And the Keurig is great for getting up in the morning or late-night sessions. No need to go to the dining hall on my way to class. Plus, my aunt works at Green Mountain Coffee (the company that owns Keurig), so we get practically free stuff. Their coffee's so good it's hard to drink stuff while I'm out-of-state.
> 
> @rolldog Lovin the green, man.
Click to expand...

Thanks. It took a little time removing the armor from my MB and painting it a UV Green with Plasti Dip, but I thought it was necessary to match the inside of my Little Devil case. Once everything is turned on (I'm just running a leak test right now and am only powering my pump and some LED strìps), I have Cougar fans wire green blades and green LEDs, then I'll turn these LED strips white so you can see all the green.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> My version of the Lian Li pc v 358
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front panel ispired by B-'s PROTO7YPE


That is amazing


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> From the reviews i saw the difference is 1-2 degrees.. if you think that's worth it for your daily tasks Do it


Yes, that was what I have read too ... guess I stick with the EK-Supremacy then.


----------



## Ramzinho

i didn't want to go with something flashy.. made this small logo for the club.. i didn't wanna feature builds and stuff like that without asking the owners.


----------



## VSG

Putting the logos in would (a) risk alienating some unnamed brands in there and (b) make this look possibly sponsored

Great work though


----------



## Ramzinho

it's a watercooling forum.. i can put all watercooling brands in there so it would be more general.. also logos that have R in it i didn't remove for the integrity of the content.

i can make another one. but i'll need to use OCNs builds


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ditch the logo's and add some water related stuff and its in.


----------



## Ramzinho

i made another one.
my idea is the OCN logo speaks for itself .







doesn't need a motto anymore

.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

should use a radiator for the BG
probably a nemesis' rad pattern. its sexy

My 2cents


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> should use a radiator for the BG
> probably a nemesis' rad pattern. its sexy
> 
> My 2cents


i thought about using the fins layout and meshing it for a background.. let me do this and get back


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> should use a radiator for the BG


Like so?


----------



## Ramzinho

here you go


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Like so?


roflmao wisk


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> That's just awesome dude.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> That tubing is just pretty sweet done


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> That is amazing


Thanks guys
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a massive amount of image manipulation there Snef...
> 
> Looks interesting tho.
> Thanks! That build has stalled until the *two* I have going on have finished....a lot of my CNC budget got swallowed up with those...
> 
> And yes,I know I didn't spoiler but im on my phone @work...like a baws.


You're too busy mate. You should talk to inwin about PROTO7YPE








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Pretty sweet dude. I like the loop design, as it is quite unique.
> 
> Just a thought....chromed out copper tubing would have been amazing with that layout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the blue acrylic isn't bad at all, as I like that too)


Nice suggestion







I'll give it a try.


----------



## Gabrielzm

I prefer WiSK version. Or the first one Ramzinho without the logos and placing the rad on the background.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer WiSK version. Or the first one Ramzinho without the logos and placing the rad on the background.


I agree with this


----------



## sHawkins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chefproject*
> 
> It has be a while, i have posted here, so did upgrade my system with a second HIS HD7870. So i am running crossfire now for gaming and folding @ 1245 Mhz coreclock and 1450 Mhz memoryclock
> 
> 
> 
> I also did put my system into a Corsair 900D for some space to add a second 480 rad, so got 2 480's one Monsta and one 45 thick one.
> 
> Here some pics, but it's not finished yet still have to do some cable arrangement and shortening of the PCI-E cables, but see yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs of the whole system:
> 
> MB: ASUS P8Z77 V-Pro
> CPU: i5 3570k delidded and naked mount @ 4,8 Ghz
> RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 Mhz 9-11-10-27
> HD: 2 x 2 TB Seagate Barracudas
> SSD: 2 x Kingston HyperX 128 GB
> RADS: 1 x 480 Monsta and 1 480 45mm thickness
> Blocks: all EK Supremacy clear and 2 x FC 7870
> Tubing: Tygoon clear
> 
> When i got some time i gonna rebuild the whole thing with some more modding for nicer and cleaner looks
> 
> Greetings and regards Chefproject


What kind of coolant is this? It's awesome how it looks like blue milk!


----------



## morencyam

Looks like Mayhem Pastel Blueberry

PS. Make sure you spoiler quoted pics


----------



## ichiwot

my past rig last lan party


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Like so?


ok those are both awesome but I think Wisk's takes the cake, I think we have a new banner.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Roger that is a solid copy however it is always an option that he might not have thought of


I tried that!! I waited a week to get a enzoteck 90degree fitting but was right up on the side of the case. Couldnt make the space so routed it like so. Looking at bitspower 90degree fittings now to see if I can find 3 - 5 to tidy up my tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ichiwot*
> 
> 
> my past rig last lan party


This Is gorgeous man!!!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> ok those are both awesome but I think Wisk's takes the cake, I think we have a new banner.


I'm glad you like it. I tried very hard to choose a representative collection of vendor unspecific hardware, and using a harmonius combination of pastel shades inspired by this emoticon









The OCN logo is better this way too, no?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer WiSK version. Or the first one Ramzinho without the logos and placing the rad on the background.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I agree with this


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Make it bigger and it will do.


----------



## chefproject

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Looks like Mayhem Pastel Blueberry
> 
> PS. Make sure you spoiler quoted pics


You got it right it is Mayhems Pastel Blueberry


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Make it bigger and it will do.


Give me pixel dimensions... it's so easy'

this size ok?


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Give me pixel dimensions... it's so easy'
> 
> this size ok?




liquid is on the table


----------



## tatmMRKIV

someone throw a pc in a pool and take a picture xD
or make gif !!! even better


----------



## Ramzinho

i didn't know you guys were looking to make this a meme not a logo


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sHawkins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chefproject*
> 
> It has be a while, i have posted here, so did upgrade my system with a second HIS HD7870. So i am running crossfire now for gaming and folding @ 1245 Mhz coreclock and 1450 Mhz memoryclock
> 
> 
> 
> I also did put my system into a Corsair 900D for some space to add a second 480 rad, so got 2 480's one Monsta and one 45 thick one.
> 
> Here some pics, but it's not finished yet still have to do some cable arrangement and shortening of the PCI-E cables, but see yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs of the whole system:
> 
> MB: ASUS P8Z77 V-Pro
> CPU: i5 3570k delidded and naked mount @ 4,8 Ghz
> RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 Mhz 9-11-10-27
> HD: 2 x 2 TB Seagate Barracudas
> SSD: 2 x Kingston HyperX 128 GB
> RADS: 1 x 480 Monsta and 1 480 45mm thickness
> Blocks: all EK Supremacy clear and 2 x FC 7870
> Tubing: Tygoon clear
> 
> When i got some time i gonna rebuild the whole thing with some more modding for nicer and cleaner looks
> 
> Greetings and regards Chefproject
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of coolant is this? It's awesome how it looks like blue milk!
Click to expand...

Since I just finished my first watercooled system, I'm not familiar with a lot of things, or terms, I see used. I've talked to a few people who have delidded their CPU. What does delidding mean and what's the benefit?

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Since I just finished my first watercooled system, I'm not familiar with a lot of things, or terms, I see used. I've talked to a few people who have delidded their CPU. What does delidding mean and what's the benefit?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


Try this club. they might have better answers for your questions.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Like so?


Love this one


----------



## Tunz

My first build. I'll be switching out the Aurora for pastel red, and going with different fans. In push/pull the eloops are just too loud. I also need to hide the cables in the back bettter.


----------



## suwit hrc thai

THE FORTRESS MARK I


----------



## Nomadskid

That Aurora is so sexy


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Like so?


This!!


----------



## CaliLife17

Also asked this in the Asus Rampage V Thread. Hoping someone here can offer input.

Ran into a problem when putting my 2x 780 Ti KPE in. I don't know if i ordered the wrong EK terminal or what, but the SLI parrallel terminal i ordered is to short. I have the cards in slot 1 and Slot 4 for dual X16 SLI per the manual.

The EK terminal is to short, pics below


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








This is what i have on my 2x 780 Ti KPE.

Blocks - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21600/ex-blc-1556/EK_EVGA_780_Classified_and_780_Ti_Classified_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-FC780_GTX_Classy_-_AcetalNickel.html?id=RAzGkTVQ&mv_pc=173

the terminal i ordered - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19897/ex-blc-1450/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot.html?id=RAzGkTVQ&mv_pc=383

So don't know what went wrong. Any help would be appreciated. Any else run into this issue?


----------



## derickwm

I believe you have 3 slots between your two cards. That bridge is for 2 slots between the two GPUs.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I believe you have 3 slots between your two cards. That bridge is for 2 slots between the two GPUs.


According to EK website and FrozenCpu it is a Dual Card, 3 Slot terminal. Looking at the box it also says it is 3-slot as well. So is the wrong item in the box?


----------



## derickwm

No. 3 Slots means it's the third slot away. Yours is in the 4th. Just like the regular dual slot bridge is for a single space in between - aka the second slot from the first GPU.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No. 3 Slots means it's the third slot away. Yours is in the 4th. Just like the regular dual slot bridge is for a single space in between - aka the second slot from the first GPU.


Ahh gotcha okay, So that is my bad. Misunderstood the terminology.

So what then is my option for linking these 2 cards? What would i need to buy from EK







It doesn't look like there is a terminal for a 4 slot, dual card setup.

Appreciate the help.


----------



## derickwm

If you insist on using that slot then you will need this bridge and this blank to fill the one in between.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you insist on using that slot then you will need this bridge and this blank to fill the one in between.


Well you know I'm going to be stubborn now and insist i use that slot









For real though, Really appreciate all the help. Going to order those now. +Rep for the great help. One of the many reasons I love EK


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> If you insist on using that slot then you will need this bridge and this blank to fill the one in between.
> 
> 
> 
> Going to order those now.
Click to expand...

One of the many reasons why EK loves you! :thumb:


----------



## o13102

Here's mine, I built it a couple of years ago, but just added the water cooling to it:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Welcome to the club


----------



## VSG

Look at these:





These might well single handedly convince me to get a 980/970 for the heck of it.


----------



## mus1mus

Funny thing is, as soon as nVidia released the 980/970 cards, custom cooled models were also announced.









Now people will scream a waterblock for custom models even before they could buy ones for reference designs.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Funny thing is, as soon as nVidia released the 980/970 cards, custom cooled models were also announced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now people will scream a waterblock for custom models even before they could buy ones for reference designs.


Tell me about it


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Funny thing is, as soon as nVidia released the 980/970 cards, custom cooled models were also announced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now people will scream a waterblock for custom models even before they could buy ones for reference designs.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Tell me about it
Click to expand...

At least it won't be a request/inquiry for custom-decade-year-old models.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Funny thing is, as soon as nVidia released the 980/970 cards, custom cooled models were also announced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now people will scream a waterblock for custom models even before they could buy ones for reference designs.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Tell me about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> At least it won't be a request/inquiry for custom-decade-year-old models.
Click to expand...

Although it should be noted that the very first comment I received on FB (in a group I shared the status to, not on EK page) was "k please make block for GTX 970"


----------



## Pheozero

Quick question, has anyone in here managed to use these two together? Are they compatible? Been wanting to try a DDC pump for a bit.

AquaComputer Aqualis
+
EK DDC Heatsink


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Look at these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These might well single handedly convince me to get a 980/970 for the heck of it.


Yup, bye bye 290x


----------



## Lefik

It's still a pretty cute fishy in my eye.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Like so?


Perfect! lol old school nerdy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooios*
> 
> MY First 600t watercooled
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Yeah my computer sucks now..


----------



## Nichismo

EK clean Plexi + Mayhems Pastel + nickel = WIN


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Like so?


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> EK clean Plexi + Mayhems Pastel + nickel = WIN


Definitely. Stepping. It. Up


----------



## LiquidHaus

I want everyone to know that you guys are doing some great builds. Awesome work everyone, I am constantly blown away by the craftsmanship. Also you're all hurting my wallet.


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> THE FORTRESS MARK I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This build is so incredible I had to quote it! OMG I love it! Build log?!?


----------



## pooios

?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Look at these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These might well single handedly convince me to get a 980/970 for the heck of it.


Buying one of those unless someone else impresses with theirs for my 980.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Yup, bye bye 290x


I would honestly wait and snag a 290x and xfire since I'm sure AMD is currently in damage control. They will have to drop the price on the 280-290x considering the $330 970 competes with and beats them in most cases.


----------



## derickwm

"Where's GTX 970 block?"

"Where's RVE block?"

"Where's R9-285 block?"

All these gems and more on EKWB Facebook GTX980 block release status for your viewing pleasure.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Where's GTX 970 block?"
> 
> "Where's RVE block?"
> 
> "Where's R9-285 block?"
> 
> All these gems and more on EKWB Facebook GTX980 block release status for your viewing pleasure.


Still kinda surprised you got out the GTX980 block so fast, didn't know EK or any other WB manuf. were sent engineering samples.


----------



## derickwm

Magic


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Magic


Out of interest, do they incorporate the stock backplate as well? Or would it be incompatible once you use an EK Block? (due to something like screw-length or something else)

nvm
Quote:


> Base is made of electrolytic copper (bare- or nickel-plated, depending on the variant) while the top is made of either acrylic- or POM Acetal material. Plexi variants also features two pre-drilled slots for 3mm LED diodes. Screw-in brass standoffs are pre-installed and allow for safe, painless installation procedure which *allows for re-use of the original NVIDIA® backplate.*


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> My first build. I'll be switching out the Aurora for pastel red, and going with different fans. In push/pull the eloops are just too loud. I also need to hide the cables in the back bettter.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Came out very nice!









I like the look of those fans in your build, is turning down rpm not an option as far as noise? What rpm they run at?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> THE FORTRESS MARK I
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very Very nice looking build, like the case mod.









Ah the CPU including parallel loop, how are your temps? Did you overclock at all?


----------



## Roxxas049

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Buying one of those unless someone else impresses with theirs for my 980.
> I would honestly wait and snag a 290x and xfire since I'm sure AMD is currently in damage control. They will have to drop the price on the 280-290x considering the $330 970 competes with and beats them in most cases.


Whether or not the 970/980 beats the 290x is all dependent on the particular site if they lean towards AMD or Nvidia. I was on one site show that the 970/980 beating the 290x in every single game, one website further down the list showed the 290x beating the 970/980 in everything except power consumption and heat output.


----------



## derickwm

Coming Soon for you EVGA guys


----------



## mus1mus

Where's my HTC One (M8) WB?

Wait, I thought this is FB









meh want one!


----------



## Ramzinho

EK has done a magnificent work with their speedy releases for blocks.. really? day 1 GPU Blocks.... that's just impressive.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> EK has done a magnificent work with their speedy releases for blocks.. really? day 1 GPU Blocks.... that's just impressive.


I think NVidia just had it ready so long ago but just wanted to wait till their own event. And that gave them the opportunity to work with EKWB to get them ready to launch at the 980 launch date.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Coming Soon for you EVGA guys


Take that faceplate off and everyone who has been asking for a full-cover plexi block that covers the entire PCB will be extremely happy.


----------



## CaliLife17

Hopefully EK will have a block for the 980 classy when it comes out


----------



## DarthBaggins

by looking at the specs on the new 980/970's I'll be looking to go for the 780 instead


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Where's GTX 970 block?"
> 
> "Where's RVE block?"
> 
> "Where's R9-285 block?"
> 
> All these gems and more on EKWB Facebook GTX980 block release status for your viewing pleasure.
> 
> 
> 
> Still kinda surprised you got out the GTX980 block so fast, didn't know EK or any other WB manuf. were sent engineering samples.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> EK has done a magnificent work with their speedy releases for blocks.. really? day 1 GPU Blocks.... that's just impressive.


Guys,they can get CAD models long before the card,they dont even _need_ the card to make a block.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Whats way does the air need to flow with the new nemesis gtx?


----------



## kimoswabi

So when do we get the waterblock for GTX 990?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Guys,they can get CAD models long before the card,they dont even _need_ the card to make a block.


I know that B... but i meant they are the first to put it on the shelves. Any other manufacturer could have asked for the pcb layout.. i guess


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Guys,they can get CAD models long before the card,they dont even _need_ the card to make a block.


Besides EK is now making the blocks for EVGA so, in order to EVGA to have the wc cards they need EK to step up early in the game. In any case is really nice to have blocks available from day one. Hey Derick can I have a block for a 8800 GTX


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Where's GTX 970 block?"


Quote:


> For the third time " GTX 970 doesn't have a reference design so it will depends from model to model. Some of the cards will be compatible with our GTX 680 and GTX 760 water blocks."


hahaha









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Guys,they can get CAD models long before the card,they dont even _need_ the card to make a block.


Sure, but as Ramzinho says: I could order one from EKWB this morning, only hours after NVidia lifts NDA, and for other vendors I could wait weeks or months.

From what I saw so far, only Aquacomputer even mention on their website that they are working on a block. Other vendors seem to take it easy with getting to market, which costs them sales I'm sure.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Whats way does the air need to flow with the new nemesis gtx?


Same as older GTX- see if the ports have the same distance to the other side of the endtank. Then you can decide on what's inlet and outlet, and accordingly the air flow direction.


----------



## psycho84

I polished the Summit a little bit ^^


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Guys,they can get CAD models long before the card,they dont even _need_ the card to make a block.
> 
> 
> 
> I know that B... but i meant they are the first to put it on the shelves. Any other manufacturer could have asked for the pcb layout.. i guess
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Guys,they can get CAD models long before the card,they dont even _need_ the card to make a block.
> 
> 
> 
> Besides EK is now making the blocks for EVGA so, in order to EVGA to have the wc cards they need EK to step up early in the game. In any case is really nice to have blocks available from day one. Hey Derick can I have a block for a 8800 GTX
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> "Where's GTX 970 block?"
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For the third time " GTX 970 doesn't have a reference design so it will depends from model to model. Some of the cards will be compatible with our GTX 680 and GTX 760 water blocks."
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> hahaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Guys,they can get CAD models long before the card,they dont even _need_ the card to make a block.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sure, but as Ramzinho says: I could order one from EKWB this morning, only hours after NVidia lifts NDA, and for other vendors I could wait weeks or months.
> 
> From what I saw so far, only Aquacomputer even mention on their website that they are working on a block. Other vendors seem to take it easy with getting to market, which costs them sales I'm sure.
Click to expand...

EK have always been first,they have an 'aggressive' design team.
It is common for EK to have blocks on or within 2 weeks of a launch,this has been proven over and over.
This has nothing to do with having a card in hand tho,rather,as WiSK pointed out,EK are purely going for market share. A sensible decision given the finite amount of blocks being sold,I doubt EK have many shelf warmers.

Historically,the release normally goes: EK,XSPC,AquaC then Watercool....if they can bothered. Dont even care what the Aquatuning mob do with their brands.....


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Same as older GTX- see if the ports have the same distance to the other side of the endtank. Then you can decide on what's inlet and outlet, and accordingly the air flow direction.


thanks


----------



## MiiX

Between these rads, whats the best choice if I want as silent as possible and good performance?

Only ones I can get my hand on in Norway...

EDIT:
I only have 95mm to work with.
The Techbay radiators are Magicool originally.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Same as older GTX- see if the ports have the same distance to the other side of the endtank. Then you can decide on what's inlet and outlet, and accordingly the air flow direction.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> thanks


Taking this Photo from Martinsliquidlab Black Ice GTX review, it looks like if you use the Right side barb as in inlet, then Barb side is hot. If you use the left side as inlet, then Barb Side is cool.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Coming Soon for you EVGA guys


No but for cereal, are you making a 970 block. If so where and when can I buy one?


----------



## derickwm

Yes we're making a block that will fit the majority EVGA 970*. Others are still TBD.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes we're making a block that will fit every single EVGA 970. Others are still TBD.


Poor Derick!

Lesson is: don't just announce the 980 block, put also in news announcement that: 970 blocks are in the works, that R9 285X blocks were announced last week, that Rampage V has too many capacitors, etc, etc.


----------



## VSG

Universal block ftw


----------



## roniebravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes we're making a block that will fit every single EVGA 970. Others are still TBD.


thats awesome, nice news
970 sli incoming









thanks!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Poor Derick!
> 
> Lesson is: don't just announce the 980 block, put also in news announcement that: 970 blocks are in the works, that R9 285X blocks were announced last week, that Rampage V has too many capacitors, etc, etc.


I think a lot of people are gonna forget about the 285X now


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I think a lot of people are gonna forget about the 285X now


There is no 285x


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is no 285x


Exactly!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is no 285x


Yup, just the 285:
http://www.ebuyer.com/662154-powercolor-r9-285-2gb-gddr5-dual-dvi-hdmi-displayport-pci-e-graphics-card-axr9-285-2gbd5-tdhe?utm_source=google&utm_medium=products&gclid=CN_c88Cs7sACFYESwwod24IAiw


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Exactly!


lol


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes we're making a block that will fit every single EVGA 970. Others are still TBD.


That's the best thing I've heard in a while. EK is always on the job and that's why I'm down with EKWB.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Poor Derick!
> 
> Lesson is: don't just announce the 980 block, put also in news announcement that: 970 blocks are in the works, that R9 285X blocks were announced last week, that Rampage V has too many capacitors, etc, etc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roniebravo*
> 
> thats awesome, nice news
> 970 sli incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's the best thing I've heard in a while. EK is always on the job and that's why I'm down with EKWB.


Welp. I underestimated how many EVGA 970s there were.

For now only these ones are guaranteed to be getting blocks:



Sorry! <3


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Yes we're making a block that will fit the majority EVGA 970*. Others are still TBD.


aww man .... im crying right now (calling my 2 customers telling the bad news) ... it should be you man ... it should be you ;_; why ..why!!!

poop ... poop !!!



are those 970 blocks will be out soon as in 2 weeks or soon november +


----------



## yoi

my bad , hit the wrong button --- Delete this post

admin


----------



## derickwm

I mean you still have 4 options... with more to possibly come. It's been fun trying to figure out what 970s are what PCB and which ones need custom, which ones are already compatible blah blah blah. Nightmare. Miss the days when a whole reference PCB came out for all new gen cards.

Probably Nov, MAYBE late Oct.


----------



## stickg1

I generally buy EVGA anyway so I'm happy


----------



## CaliLife17

As long as you make one for the 980 EVGA Classy, then I'm happy


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Universal block ftw


A smart man would go this route. Especially with these nice low wattage Maxwell GPUs that shouldn't need more than simple heatsinks for the VRMs.


----------



## morencyam

making some progress on my desk build


----------



## derickwm

Orange! Love <3


----------



## morencyam

Yup, been rocking the orange since day 1. I think I only saw a handful of other orange builds when I built my first loop. They're all over the place now

Ps. I love your Aldri build. The paint job on that case is amazing


----------



## Korayyy

Just finished the new setup, finally.

Enthoo Primo - dual loop - 4790k @ 4.8 and 3x 290's @ 1160/1480 24/7

http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Korey1213/media/DSC02683.jpg.html

http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Korey1213/media/DSC02692.jpg.html

http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Korey1213/media/DSC02690.jpg.html

http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Korey1213/media/DSC02689.jpg.html


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> making some progress on my desk build


Very cool, can't wait till you finish it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Amazing work as usual, I love the design on the swiftech block


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korayyy*
> 
> Just finished the new setup, finally.
> 
> Enthoo Primo - dual loop - 4790k @ 4.8 and 3x 290's @ 1160/1480 24/7
> 
> http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Korey1213/media/DSC02683.jpg.html


Nice dual loop you have there









How do those Tri-Fire 290s scale while running them in an 8x4x4x config ? Any bottle necking?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Beautiful photo James


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> making some progress on my desk build


For a minute there I thought it was an ITX motherboard, then I realised how huge the desk was...


----------



## WiSK

Wet sanding revision 4 of my custom 200ml reservoir




Spoiler: revision 2 and revision 3


----------



## Ramzinho

wisk you can flame torche the edges to get them to shine... but i'm sure you know that already


----------



## EFO Kreid

my mock up sample of "the mantle"


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> wisk you can flame torche the edges to get them to shine... but i'm sure you know that already


No flames! I am a Lowfat polishing convert and will be using 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit and then busting out the Meguiar's PlastX








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EFO Kreid*
> 
> my mock up sample of "the mantle"


Nice first post


----------



## iBored

@EFO Kreid What's the mesh thingy you have on the front rad? Looks really cool.


----------



## EFO Kreid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @EFO Kreid What's the mesh thingy you have on the front rad? Looks really cool.


hey iBored, they are bitspower rad grills that have been plated gold and silver by me, you can buy them off performance pc or bitspower themselves. (they come in black or aluminium finish, the aluminium is easier to plated then the black ones.

thanks for your the support , here's a link below:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457_362_406

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Nice first post


thanks WiSK for the support...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Wet sanding revision 4 of my custom 200ml reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: revision 2 and revision 3


Looks good WiSK,custom res are FTW.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> wisk you can flame torche the edges to get them to shine... but i'm sure you know that already


Not on a solvent weld seam you dont,it will craze badly.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EFO Kreid*
> 
> my mock up sample of "the mantle"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Like the flipped mobo tray, and mock up looks good


----------



## sHawkins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EFO Kreid*
> 
> my mock up sample of "the mantle"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The silver and gold twin loops is so cool! What are the specs on the cooling system?


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Came out very nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of those fans in your build, is turning down rpm not an option as far as noise? What rpm they run at?


Thanks. Turning down the rpm helps a little bit, but it's the fans in pull making all the noise. It's a known issue with these fans, I just didn't think it would be so bad.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Its not done yet but can we take a moment to admire how damn good those fittings look on that full copper block.
I mean.. damn


----------



## DarthBaggins

almost makes me want an EK block, lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Coming Soon for you EVGA guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Beautiful!


I'm really likin' that block.









I haven't seen an EK block I really liked in a long time.
Like, not since that 8800 delrin that looked like a fish. I LUV that block.









Then again, I'm picky. I don't like acrylic (at least not full acrylic). I don't like nickel. I hate the circles. I've been turned off for a long time now by EK's square-ish / symmetrical looking blocks in general, but I do really like the look of that cutaway with the acrylic underneath. I wonder what it would look like with some leds lighting up the acrylic with that EVGA logo? Hmmm?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I need some ! for classy~


----------



## EFO Kreid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Like the flipped mobo tray, and mock up looks good


my man







thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sHawkins*
> 
> The silver and gold twin loops is so cool! What are the specs on the cooling system?


no sweat , thank u

4930k
asus rampage 4 black edition
Kingston HyperX Beast 16 GB Kit (2x8 GB) 2400MHz (2x)
evga gtx 780 (2x)
ax 1200i
corsair ssd 240 (3x)

watercooling:

ekwb:

(all clean acrylic edition)
ek ram monarch 4x (2x)
ek supremacy
ek Rampage IV Black Edition water block kit
ek Full Cover Water Block for NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 (2x)

bitspower:

reservoir and pump combo-
Bitspower Single/Dual D5 Top Upgrade Kit 300 Reservoir w/Acrylic Cap - (2x)
Bitspower BP-D5TOPACS-BK D5 Mod Pump Top (Clear "S" Model) pump top (2x)
Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Mod Kit - Abrasive Gold Finish
Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Mod Kit V2 - Black Sparkle Finish

all bitspower fittings:



all ek waterblocks


----------



## stickg1

I really like EK's latest line-up of clean blocks. They are just that, clean, and concise, they get the job done and imo look really nice in the process. When I upgrade I'm likely to get some new blocks and they are on my short list.


----------



## timerwin63

All these people using Case Labs and other huge cases. Am I the only one who prefers trying to stuff as much performance/cooling as possible into a tiny footprint?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I havent gotten around to a efficient build or a lan build yet all my stuff is benchmark oriented.
Even my dads rig is built for benching ddr3


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> All these people using Case Labs and other huge cases. Am I the only one who prefers trying to stuff as much performance/cooling as possible into a tiny footprint?


Nope, waiting to get my hands on a phanteks Evolv for my next build!


----------



## brandotip

What is the smallest enthusiast case that has space for an matx board and a 360mm rad? I'm open to multiple suggestions... Doesn't need to fit more than 2 780's


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> What is the smallest enthusiast case that has space for an matx board and a 360mm rad? I'm open to multiple suggestions... Doesn't need to fit more than 2 780's


I know of cases that can house a 120mm and a 240mm rad, but if you already have a 360mm rad yous should check out the Fractal Arc Mini R2


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> All these people using Case Labs and other huge cases. Am I the only one who prefers trying to stuff as much performance/cooling as possible into a tiny footprint?


I like the challenge too (see crowbar build), but the luxury of space in a caselabs is also nice (see madhouse build).

I really think it depends on the build and what you want to accomplish


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I like the challenge too (see crowbar build), but the luxury of space in a caselabs is also nice (see madhouse build).
> 
> I really think it depends on the build and what you want to accomplish


I just greatly dislike the amount of space a full-sized or plus-sized tower takes up, and as a result, enjoyed learning to love the challenges of smaller builds. Larger builds just feel clunky and boring now.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> What is the smallest enthusiast case that has space for an matx board and a 360mm rad? I'm open to multiple suggestions... Doesn't need to fit more than 2 780's


Definitely look into the Arc Mini R2. I'm pretty sure my next build is going in one


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I just greatly dislike the amount of space a full-sized or plus-sized tower takes up, and as a result, enjoyed learning to love the challenges of smaller builds. Larger builds just feel clunky and boring now.


Yah. Think it still depends on the build. It comes down to space utilization. When I see massive cases with tons of empty space, id tend to agree with you. but I have seen some outstanding larger case builds at the same time.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> All these people using Case Labs and other huge cases. Am I the only one who prefers trying to stuff as much performance/cooling as possible into a tiny footprint?


Nope, that's why I'm excited about CaseLabs' newest case the X2 (although I probably won't be buying it).

Here is the water cooling loop of my custom SFF case


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Nope, that's why I'm excited about CaseLabs' newest case the X2 (although I probably won't be buying it).


Does that have 3 PCIe slots?!?! That'd be fantastic for my next build. And here I thought I might have to do a scratch build... Also, that build is beautifully adorable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yah. Think it still depends on the build. It comes down to space utilization. When I see massive cases with tons of empty space, id tend to agree with you. but I have seen some outstanding larger case builds at the same time.


Yeah, I've never understood all the people who get ATX boards and full-sized stuff just to put one GPU in it and never any more. It just seems like a huge waste of space.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Does that have 3 PCIe slots?!?! That'd be fantastic for my next build. And here I thought I might have to do a scratch build... Also, that build is beautifully adorable.


Thanks, and the X2 has 2 slots only, but enough room to put a 2.5 slot tall card.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Thanks, and the X2 has 2 slots only, but enough room to put a 2.5 slot tall card.


Oh. Well, back to a scratch build it is!


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Nope, that's why I'm excited about CaseLabs' newest case the X2 (although I probably won't be buying it).
> 
> Here is the water cooling loop of my custom SFF case


woa... that's one sick sff build


----------



## brandotip

Thanks for the Fractal suggestions peeps! Any small caselabs cases out there that support a 360mm rad?


----------



## Jakewat

Just a quick question. I'm looking to swap out my EK XT 480 radiator, and have two possible options. XSPC AX480 or EK PE 480. Can someone link me a comparison chart with all these rads (can be a 360 chart) or offer some personal experience with these rads.


----------



## VSG

Funny you should mention those two rads specifically...

Anyway if you can wait for a couple of weeks, I will have done testing out some 480s and 560s (including those two). The most recent radiator comparison is likely Bundy's 22 rad (360mm size) review here and on multiple other places.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Funny you should mention those two rads specifically...
> 
> Anyway if you can wait for a couple of weeks, I will have done testing out some 480s and 560s (including those two). The most recent radiator comparison is likely Bundy's 22 rad (360mm size) review here and on multiple other places.


I know someone selling both rads at a good price, plus I have always liked the aesthetics of both, more so the PE rads.
Bundy is a bit outdated on OCN, only has EK XT and then a bunch of the usual old rads. will look around though


----------



## VSG

You have probably seen how similar they are spec/look wise. So go with whatever is cheaper or looks better to you. Both are good radiators with nice build quality.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im not really into EK rads but those PE's are very much to my liking,so much so that I asked Niko for a pair of 240's.
Dont know what they are like performance wise but it doesnt matter really,they will be within a c of everyone else no doubt.


----------



## derickwm

We've got a large range of radiators coming in the next ~6 months, all with the refreshed PE style.


----------



## VSG

Different fan sizes or also thickness changes?


----------



## derickwm

I'll let your imagination run wild


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'll let your imagination run wild


I'm a need a PEX rad, with 64mm thickness, and fill/drain ports in the end. Kthxgetonitnow.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> All these people using Case Labs and other huge cases. Am I the only one who prefers trying to stuff as much performance/cooling as possible into a tiny footprint?


At one point I did, but once higher quality full tower cases started being readily available years ago I've never looked back. Then again, I don't LANparty anymore. I might go with a tiny yet powerful rig when I build an HTPC for the bedroom though ^_^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I know of cases that can house a 120mm and a 240mm rad, but if you already have a 360mm rad yous should check out the Fractal Arc Mini R2


That is rather gorgeous!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We've got a large range of radiators coming in the next ~6 months, all with the refreshed PE style.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


James, stop scheming and finish Parvum Warfare!


----------



## CaliLife17

Working on tubing now. Not much left i can do till new terminal bridge shows up tomorow.



Also added a drain port. Hope it works



also first time i have done a custom loop.

Edit: i have 2x 5960x cpu's to test, so i am hoping i can just lift the block off the cpu and replace it with the other one without having to drain my loop. I hope tomorrow to leak test


----------



## nismoskyline

Does anyone know if it is possible to get the frozenq helix bay reservoir with a white helix? I have only seen it in green/blue/red


----------



## bond32

It lives!! So what if I have total overkill with pumps... Built a little base for the MCP50X's:


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Does anyone know if it is possible to get the frozenq helix bay reservoir with a white helix? I have only seen it in green/blue/red


Of course: http://www.frozenqshop.com/lf-reaction-dual-bay-reservoir/


----------



## royce5950

If this hasnt been posted I figured it may be helpful to someone.



for best performance with lga 2011-v3 please use Insert 2 (I2) with Jet J1 (0.25mm).

^^says EK facebook page.


----------



## Mirotvorez113

This build is scrapped already, but it looked good and temps were great. So I figured I would share.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Of course: http://www.frozenqshop.com/lf-reaction-dual-bay-reservoir/


Thanks!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mirotvorez113*
> 
> This build is scrapped already, but it looked good and temps were great. So I figured I would share.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In what looks like a CM N200? I approve. Also, it looks beautiful.


----------



## Ironsmack

I was doing some leak testing, then those swiftech lok-seal started leaking between the GPU's.

I had 2 extra ones (total 4) and 3 of them started leaking by the lock nut.

Anyone have similar experience with them?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I was doing some leak testing, then those swiftech lok-seal started leaking between the GPU's.
> 
> I had 2 extra ones (total 4) and 3 of them started leaking by the lock nut.
> 
> Anyone have similar experience with them?


Yes,I had to take a spanner to them in the end.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,I had to take a spanner to them in the end.


Me too. Same thing. But with a spanner I was able to stop the leak.


----------



## snef

on leak test now













and for sure some UV shoot


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> on leak test now
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and for sure some UV shoot


Any chance we can get some undoctored/raw images to see what it really looks like?


----------



## brandotip

@snef Ive had such trouble photographing my UV set up.. any tips on UV photoshoots?


----------



## snef

the only thing I did is drop the exposure by 1 or 1.5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Any chance we can get some undoctored/raw images to see what it really looks like?


what do you think is look in real??
What do you think that is doctored to not like it look in real?

if you want what is look in real you need to come to see it in real

I can guaranty its pretty closed to what I see in real.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> the only thing I did is drop the exposure by 1 or 1.5
> what do you think is look in real??
> What do you think that is doctored to not like it look in real?
> 
> if you want what is look in real you need to come to see it in real
> 
> I can guaranty its pretty closed to what I see in real.


No, it's not that, it's just so vibrant that I assumed some saturation and exposure tricks were used during the photography process.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> No, it's not that, it's just so vibrant that I assumed some saturation and exposure tricks were used during the photography process.


ahhhhhhhh, I did the exact same method as James Walter, open in Lightroom, use auto exposure, use the auto white balance and drop shadows a little, this help a lot, specially on contrast

and I used the sharp and noise reduction tool just little bit, this help for the sharpening

for UV , just drop the exposure by 1 or 1.5 on camera and use sharp and noise reduction tools in lightroom
that's it

the auto exposure for night shoot is not recommended lolllll


----------



## reedy777

my rig
cpu. 2600k 5ghz 1.42v w/ek supremacy water block
mobo. asus maxi extreme v
ram. 16gb corsair vengeance 1600
gpu. 2x290x @1150 w/ ek water blocks
ssd. 2x sandisk extreme II 240gb in raid 0
hdd. 2tb western digital 7200rpm
case. corsair 540 air
psu. be quite 1200w dark power pro
rads. ek 240 and 360 xt
os . win 7 64
monitor.samsung 4k @ 60hz
kb. corsair k50
mouse rat 9


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> ahhhhhhhh, I did the exact same method as James Walter, open in Lightroom, use auto exposure, use the auto white balance and drop shadows a little, this help a lot, specially on contrast
> 
> and I used the sharp and noise reduction tool just little bit, this help for the sharpening
> 
> for UV , just drop the exposure by 1 or 1.5 on camera and use sharp and noise reduction tools in lightroom
> that's it
> 
> the auto exposure for night shoot is not recommended lolllll


It's absolutely beautiful nonetheless.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reedy777*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> DSC_0006.JPG 6206k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my rig
> cpu. 2600k 5ghz 1.42v w/ek supremacy water block
> mobo. asus maxi extreme v
> ram. 16gb corsair vengeance 1600
> gpu. 2x290x @1150 w/ ek water blocks
> ssd. 2x sandisk extreme II 240gb in raid 0
> hdd. 2tb western digital 7200rpm
> case. corsair 540 air
> psu. be quite 1200w dark power pro
> rads. ek 240 and 360 xt
> os . win 7 64
> monitor.samsung 4k @ 60hz
> kb. corsair k50
> mouse rat 9


http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reedy777*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> my rig
> cpu. 2600k 5ghz 1.42v w/ek supremacy water block
> mobo. asus maxi extreme v
> ram. 16gb corsair vengeance 1600
> gpu. 2x290x @1150 w/ ek water blocks
> ssd. 2x sandisk extreme II 240gb in raid 0
> hdd. 2tb western digital 7200rpm
> case. corsair 540 air
> psu. be quite 1200w dark power pro
> rads. ek 240 and 360 xt
> os . win 7 64
> monitor.samsung 4k @ 60hz
> kb. corsair k50
> mouse rat 9


What reservoir and pump are you using?


----------



## Mirotvorez113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> In what looks like a CM N200? I approve. Also, it looks beautiful.


Yes CM N200. Thanks


----------



## reedy777

ek dcp ? 2.2 dual drive combo pump and reservoir. I have undervolted the pump to 7v as it is a little noisy depending on your case.


----------



## LiquidHaus

trying hard not to sell and upgrade


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reedy777*
> 
> 
> 
> my rig
> cpu. 2600k 5ghz 1.42v w/ek supremacy water block
> mobo. asus maxi extreme v
> ram. 16gb corsair vengeance 1600
> gpu. 2x290x @1150 w/ ek water blocks
> ssd. 2x sandisk extreme II 240gb in raid 0
> hdd. 2tb western digital 7200rpm
> case. corsair 540 air
> psu. be quite 1200w dark power pro
> rads. ek 240 and 360 xt
> os . win 7 64
> monitor.samsung 4k @ 60hz
> kb. corsair k50
> mouse rat 9


What pump is in the bay? Don't see it listed...


----------



## Alex132

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990556.pdf

Any disadvantages to using J3 jetplate?

Guess it's just a sorta default "will work with most"


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,I had to take a spanner to them in the end.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Me too. Same thing. But with a spanner I was able to stop the leak.


Ughh... just end up getting some crystal links and hard fittings. The XSPC bridge i wanted wasn't in stock except Daz.

What's another few days to wait.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> on leak test now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and for sure some UV shoot


Horizontal mobo's ftw









I've been spoiled by my massive case with horizontal mobo and slide out tray...last two builds I made were a tiny ITX rig in a Corsair 250D and a Prodigy mATX LAN rig.


----------



## Blackspots

Some minor changes. I decided that I'm gonna get me a single GTX980, instead of dual SLI GTX760's (when I get around to buying it). A 980 is going to be a big jump over a 560.

I might get a second GTX980 in 2016 for dual SLI, but not doing SLI at this time.


----------



## Red1776

Finished my light panel. LED glass panel that is almost impossible so far to photograph.

It drown out the polished curved aluminum frame.





Will compliment the custom fabricated LED embedded Pump facades.


----------



## DarthBaggins

What does it look like with the side panel on the case, looks good so far


----------



## GaMbi2004

Awesome work @snef!
Absolutely perfect acrylic bends, cool color scheme, nice sleeving and incredible UV shots!
That beast is definitely something to be proud of!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Awesome work @snef!
> Absolutely perfect acrylic bends, cool color scheme, nice sleeving and incredible UV shots!
> That beast is definitely something to be proud of!


Thanks


----------



## Ricardo Novo




----------



## B NEGATIVE

I love paint!

You cant believe how awesomely yellow it is.....



Yes yes,its not watercooling....

But it is Yellow!


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> on leak test now
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and for sure some UV shoot


Looks real good. I like the UV effect.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Finished my light panel. LED glass panel that is almost impossible so far to photograph.
> It drown out the polished curved aluminum frame.
> ...
> 
> Will compliment the custom fabricated LED embedded Pump facades.


Those are some interesting looking D5 tops.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Finished my light panel. LED glass panel that is almost impossible so far to photograph.
> It drown out the polished curved aluminum frame.
> ...
> 
> Will compliment the custom fabricated LED embedded Pump facades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are some interesting looking D5 tops.
Click to expand...

They are custom made poly fabs





They will be when they are lit up


----------



## Devildog83

This makes me want a new res. - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41678


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> This makes me want a new res. - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41678


Cool looking res DD


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Cool looking res DD


Love the way your build is shaping up. Wouldn't what to have to do that cable management right now though.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> This makes me want a new res. - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41678


reminds me of star wars









it's pretty abstract looking. would like to see a build that could incorporate it well without it standing out too much.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ooh I want one


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> This makes me want a new res. - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41678


Would love one that's half-height.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> reminds me of star wars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's pretty abstract looking. would like to see a build that could incorporate it well without it standing out too much.


I'm going to change all of my cover pieces to black chrome so I think it would look nice.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I'm going to change all of my cover pieces to black chrome so I think it would look nice.


I can just imagine that res in your case, it would look really good


----------



## CaliLife17

Leak testing my first custom loop build. Man i hope it doesn't leak.



I will also say that as much as i love my KPE cards, I can't wait till i get my 980 Classy's, as the 8+8+6 power connections on 2 cards, is a A LOT of power cables, and a Pain in the @ss manage and wire. Will be much cleaner and easier to go to the 8+8 on the 980 classy's


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> This makes me want a new res. - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41678


Nice I need...ermmm...want 2 of these


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Nice I need...ermmm...want 2 of these


I'll take 2 more


----------



## IT Diva

Yes!!!!!!



Exactly what I need . . .

1 on each side of the main flux capacitor in my new gullwing stainless steel case









Not sure I've seen a build yet where that aesthetic would begin to be a compliment to it.

No doubt they'll sell plenty of them though,

Darlene


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly what I need . . .
> 
> 1 on each side of the main flux capacitor in my new gullwing stainless steel case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I've seen a build yet where that aesthetic would begin to be a compliment to it.
> 
> No doubt they'll sell plenty of them though,
> 
> Darlene


Better hurry! Only 175 of them will be made! 1.21 gigawatts compatible...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 1 on each side of the main flux capacitor in my new gullwing stainless steel case


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Better hurry! Only 175 of them will be made! 1.21 gigawatts compatible...


Where we're going we don't need reservoirs!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I already got 4 bitspower 250s i am tapped out. Especially since id need 4 so 600 in res i want them, but not that bad


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I already got 4 bitspower 250s i am tapped out. Especially since id need 4 so 600 in res i want them, but not that bad


This. They would go perfect in my desk build, but that price is just too hard to swallow since I'd need two


----------



## cennis

Is it normal for the copper in my nickel aquacomputer 295x2 block to be showing in the microchannels area?

I have only copper and brass fittings in the loop, distilled water only, everything rinsed before

purchased block new, never opened it to brush it or anything, just rinse with distilled.

Loop up for 7 days, the dazmode additive just got in today. No silver coils.

Pic. quite hard to see but there is copper tint at a few areas on the heat fins this gpu side, the other gpu area is fine so far.



EDIT: the area above the heat fins is a reflection of my table, its still nickel coloured.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> Is it normal for the copper in my nickel aquacomputer 295x2 block to be showing in the microchannels area?
> I have only copper and brass fittings in the loop, distilled water only, everything rinsed before
> purchased block new, never opened it to brush it or anything, just rinse with distilled.
> Loop up for 7 days, the dazmode additive just got in today. No silver coils.
> Pic. quite hard to see but there is copper tint at a few areas on the heat fins this gpu side, the other gpu area is fine so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: the area above the heat fins is a reflection of my table, its still nickel coloured.


There might be a chance the fins are only lightly plated with Nickel which could show a copper colour from certain angles.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> There might be a chance the fins are only lightly plated with Nickel which could show a copper colour from certain angles.


it shows copper at all angles, even when straight on, more so to the side. The other gpu side does not show any copper though at any angles

Also this side seem like it has tiny particles stuck here and there between the fins, but the other side is completely clean. could it be the nickel plating? The order of the flow is left to right, and this is the gpu on the right, it shouldn't act as the "filter".


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> it shows copper at all angles, even when straight on, more so to the side. The other gpu side does not show any copper though at any angles
> 
> Also this side seem like it has tiny particles stuck here and there between the fins, but the other side is completely clean. could it be the nickel plating? The order of the flow is left to right, and this is the gpu on the right, it shouldn't act as the "filter".


Is this a new development? Has it always been like this?


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Is this a new development? Has it always been like this?


i only had this loop for 7 days and I just noticed it 2 days ago.

When I was installing it and admiring it for the first 5 days it didnt seem like that.

*seem to be a specific batch as shoggy replied.*


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> Is it normal for the copper in my nickel aquacomputer 295x2 block to be showing in the microchannels area?
> 
> I have only copper and brass fittings in the loop, distilled water only, everything rinsed before
> 
> purchased block new, never opened it to brush it or anything, just rinse with distilled.
> 
> Loop up for 7 days, the dazmode additive just got in today. No silver coils.
> 
> Pic. quite hard to see but there is copper tint at a few areas on the heat fins this gpu side, the other gpu area is fine so far.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: the area above the heat fins is a reflection of my table, its still nickel coloured.


*
seem to be a specific batch as shoggy replied. Working on it with him*


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> i only had this loop for 7 days and I just noticed it 2 days ago.
> 
> When I was installing it and admiring it for the first 5 days it didnt seem like that


Sounds like a bad plating job. It happens and it shouldn't be an issue in a brand new loop. I'd RMA asap if it was mine .


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This. They would go perfect in my desk build, but that price is just too hard to swallow since I'd need two


lol yup i got a red harbinger desk. So technically those bitspower res were too much xD that deak was too damn much.

But those res would look so great it pains me not to get them.

I am doing 4 horizontal parallel res for 2 systems and 2 sets of gpus
Tubing layout doesnt make much sense but i think it looks good


Oh thats right i did it that way to conserve silver. By connecting the 4 loops into pairs i was figuring i only needed 2 chunks of silver,& then i am using troy oz. Of silver cuz those kill coils @ 10 a piece adds up fast for 4 loops and i had some troy oz around. I bought 1 coil read the usage instructions and decided i wasnt gonna spend that much on kill coils when i have some oz coins around


----------



## morencyam

You got one of those things!? I envy you. The Cross desk and L3p D3sk were the main inspirations for the desk I am currently finishing up. Do you have a build log with that desk in it? I'd very much like to see what you do with it.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly what I need . . .
> 
> 1 on each side of the main flux capacitor in my new gullwing stainless steel case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I've seen a build yet where that aesthetic would begin to be a compliment to it.
> 
> No doubt they'll sell plenty of them though,
> 
> Darlene


I'm curious as to how one would look in @akira749's Xenomorph build. I guess we'll never know though since he already has something in the works and I don't think it'd fit size wise.


----------



## VSG

I was considering two of the LF Reaction reservoirs but those are possible also. Just not sure what colors to go with.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I'm curious as to how one would look in @akira749's Xenomorph build. I guess we'll never know though since he already has something in the works and I don't think it'd fit size wise.


It's indeed very nice looking but height wise it will definitely not fit since the reservoir is actually higher than the whole case









But with the help of ClockWerk Casemods I will have something really nice that will look like an Alien Stasis Tube


----------



## snef

I/O and Battery are now black and installed the Ram block


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly what I need . . .
> 
> 1 on each side of the main flux capacitor in my new gullwing stainless steel case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I've seen a build yet where that aesthetic would begin to be a compliment to it.
> 
> No doubt they'll sell plenty of them though,
> 
> Darlene


Awesome res,shame its FQ tho.........No doubt they will leak or melt or whatever.....

Did FQ ever pick their QC issues up? I know they are a _very_ small team and I fully endorse grass roots but they sure do charge lot for stuff


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/iqUDp90tj


----------



## VSG

They've definitely gone back to square one and redesigned their reservoirs to be easier on the eyes as well as quality. I will likely get a couple of these (or the LF ones) to see for myself.


----------



## Gualichu04

I have a question regarding using a silver coil and my nickel plated aquacomputer kryogprahics Hawaii gpu blocks along with the swifttech hydrx. Is it safe to use those together and not have the nickel corroding over time or should i just get rid of the silver coil and use only the swiftech hydrx?


----------



## DeXel

Why would want to use silver coil with a coolant that already has biocide in it?


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Why would want to use silver coil with a coolant that already has biocide in it?


Wanted it to be a bit overkill but, if its pointless and will corrode the nickel plating in the future i should just remove it? I also wonder if hydrx is any good for longevity or will it slime up over time? I used it for over a year before and have not had that issue at all. If i do have to remove it that woudl require draining the loop to get it out of the tube resevoir andi ahve no spare hydrx on hand. Would it be ok to just put it back in. Every time i drain my loop i just change the fluid not reuse it. But, i would prefer not to buy more since it was recently build.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Why would want to use silver coil with a coolant that already has biocide in it?
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted it to be a bit overkill but, if its pointless and will corrode the nickel plating in the future i should just remove it? I also wonder if hydrx is any good for longevity or will it slime up over time? I used it for over a year before and have not had that issue at all. If i do have to remove it that woudl require draining the loop to get it out of the tube resevoir andi ahve no spare hydrx on hand. Would it be ok to just put it back in. Every time i drain my loop i just change the fluid not reuse it. But, i would prefer not to buy more since it was recently build.
Click to expand...

IIRC silver + copper sulphate biocide = bad idea.

I tried silver killcoil twice in the past year, both times got algae. Just using PT Nuke now, it seems to be a-ok so far


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> IIRC silver + copper sulphate biocide = bad idea.
> 
> I tried silver killcoil twice in the past year, both times got algae. Just using PT Nuke now, it seems to be a-ok so far


Never had algae with either just distilled and silver coil or hydrx and silver. Don't i need a corrosion inhibitor for nickel plated blocks being used with copper rads and cpu bock? The hydrx ingredients does not show any copper sulphate. Ethylene glycol 3 to 4%, Potassium 2-ethylhexanoate 2 to 3%, Para-hydroxybenzoic acid 0.15 to 0.5%, Diethylene glycol 0.1 to 0.15%


----------



## DeXel

That coolant has both biocide and corrosion inhibitor according to Swiftech.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> That coolant has both biocide and corrosion inhibitor according to Swiftech.


That is correct.


----------



## VSG

Ya, Hydrx has everything needed (going by specs anyway)- best bang for the buck coolant/concentrate as long as the color scheme works.


----------



## Gualichu04

I love it for the price and the color. I will just remove the silver since it could cause the nickel plating to corrode. I bought the premixed hyrdx by accident but, it works just as well as the concentrate even though i had to dilute it a bit. I need to buy the concentrate to get the deeper green color i used to have back.


----------



## VSG

Last I heard there were plans for more Hydrx colors (along with tubing). Is that still the case, Bryan?


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We've got a large range of radiators coming in the next ~6 months, all with the refreshed PE style.


Can we expect a multiport version?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Last I heard there were plans for more Hydrx colors (along with tubing). Is that still the case, Bryan?


It's still in the works. We're sourcing vendors right now for the coolant and validating a new tubing as well.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's still in the works. We're sourcing vendors right now for the coolant and validating a new tubing as well.


I never heard about this till now. Quite amazing to have different color choices. Will the cost of the coolant still be as it is now?


----------



## VSG

Something I would like to see is a cost effective, clear additive/concentrate that has antimicrobial and anticorrossive agents to use with distilled water and call it a day.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Awesome res,shame its FQ tho.........*No doubt they will leak or melt or whatever.*....
> 
> Did FQ ever pick their QC issues up? I know they are a _very_ small team and I fully endorse grass roots but they sure do charge lot for stuff


Funny you should mention....

Earlier today I decided to pull my t-virus res to polish it up... aaaand wires pulled right out of the cfl.


Yuuup cfl melted the inner tube...


----------



## VSG

^ Wow, that's bad. I haven't had anything close to that happen here. Have you used the rig on for elongated periods of time? Just wondering if time was a factor here.

@Frozen-Q, @Steveo2400


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Wow, that's bad. I haven't had anything close to that happen here. Have you used the rig on for elongated periods of time? Just wondering if time was a factor here.
> 
> @Frozen-Q, @Steveo2400


Not much more than 4-5 hours at a time usually... and power settings always sleep my system after 2 hours. Granted it's the first gen t res so I'm actually surprised this is the first issue I've had.

The only thing I can think of is that the res was about half full for a few days. Right around the center tube mark. Maybe the fact that water wasn't fully surrounding the tube allowed the cfl to melt it a bit. Although if that were the case.. anyone with their res mounted vertically and not topped off would be melting the top end of the tube.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Not much more than 4-5 hours at a time usually... and power settings always sleep my system after 2 hours. Granted it's the first gen t res so I'm actually surprised this is the first issue I've had.


Ah those were pretty bugged from everything I've seen. I have had my own issue as well but that was more from USPS than anyone else and I was taken care of well enough for me to use their stuff and even recommend it to those looking for it.


----------



## Devildog83

Question - I bought an EK Back-Plate for my 290, will the Kamodo waterblock work with it or will I have to buy an EK?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I do but its not something i keep up with. I had to take apart all my systems that were running to cannibalize some various parts to make testing ideas out easier so all i have is a galaxy s5 to post with and it sucks for this


----------



## Pimphare

Wrong thread @tatmMRKIV? Lol

Edit: never mind. My phone or the mobile site is acting weird.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

no I was on a phone so I didn't hit reply to a specific user,
theywere asking about a bui.ld log for my cross desk

I been busy with it all day and I was gonna reply to them much sooner but my phone died mid sentence

now its up and I am overclocking my cpu for the first time(for me atleast, this vchip has gone to 6ghz before)


----------



## morencyam

I knew what you were talking about tatmMRKIV


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Unfortunately i have metal to cut before i can put the glass on and im too tired to learn how to oc ivy-e right now.

Now i just need to get some fittings so i can get the loop together proper, 5960x for the other rig, before its up, then to finish i need fans, a rad 480rad. (Having difficulty deciding between another nemesis and an alphacool for extra high flow with my biitspower mod)

I need a second size of tubing for the bp top

oh and waitiing for new gpus to get waterblocks for gpu, and gpu for x99 rig

I would have made my own desk if i could but i am bad at fabricating things. And even worse with power tools. Assuming i wouldnt maim myself it would just look really, really bad, and not work. And never even look like a desk probably..


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Just a heads up, PPC's is having a firesale on MIPS blocks. That includes the Iceforce HF for LGA1155/AMD/LGA2011. $49.95. Better get them while you can. There are three left of the LGA1155 (I took one ). Remember, MIPS is no longer in the WC business, so this block is basically gone for good after the like sub 10 stock of the Intel versions get sold.

LGA1155: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-mips-iceforce-hf-sockel-1155-1156-1366-nickel-pom.html

LGA2011: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-mips-iceforce-hf-sockel-2011-nickel-pom.html

Literally the sexiest block ever created (and performs quite well).


----------



## lowfat

What the hell did they do to their website?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What the hell did they do to their website?


This. Pretty sure we decided this in the thread about Corsair's new keyboard logo. Change is bad.

Edit: Of course, I had to go waste my money on BF4. Don't even like the game, but that's digital game purchases for you. So long, MIPS blocks. I guess I'll never know your wonders...


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What the hell did they do to their website?


Idk but it looks like they've finally put together a mobile version.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What the hell did they do to their website?


I love the real-time activity using your real name. Not.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What the hell did they do to their website?


Testimonials feed: Pic of dude wearing RAMurai helmet = redesign win



OT: Everyone else posts the same pics here as they do in the EK club thread... so why not?












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Testimonials feed: Pic of dude wearing RAMurai helmet = redesign win
> 
> OT: Everyone else posts the same pics here as they do in the EK club thread... so why not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That hold down is absolutely beautiful... How would you incorporate that into a build, though?


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> That hold down is absolutely beautiful... How would you incorporate that into a build, though?


It's just one of a million different wood pieces in my desk build.









If you're asking how it could actually work? It's just a veneer on the mounting plate. The holes are large enough that the springs bypass it and rest directly on the plate.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> It's just one of a million different wood pieces in my desk build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're asking how it could actually work? It's just a veneer on the mounting plate. The holes are large enough that the springs bypass it and rest directly on the plate.


I figured there'd be more wood. I just don't think I've seen your build before, so it was a bit new.


----------



## VSG

Figured I might as well put this in here too:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of news, another survey from EK Facebook : https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/EK-Hardware-Survey
> 
> Apparently 5 shirts to random guys which is good enough for me lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Just a heads up, PPC's is having a firesale on MIPS blocks. That includes the Iceforce HF for LGA1155/AMD/LGA2011. $49.95. Better get them while you can. There are three left of the LGA1155 (I took one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Remember, MIPS is no longer in the WC business, so this block is basically gone for good after the like sub 10 stock of the Intel versions get sold.
> 
> LGA1155: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-mips-iceforce-hf-sockel-1155-1156-1366-nickel-pom.html
> 
> LGA2011: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-mips-iceforce-hf-sockel-2011-nickel-pom.html
> 
> Literally the sexiest block ever created (and performs quite well).


I want one soo bad!! I know they'll be gone by tomorrow when I can snag one


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I want one soo bad!! I know they'll be gone by tomorrow when I can snag one


I'm in the same boat. I've always wanted one of those blocks but they've always been hard to find, or too expensive. And now I can't get one til Friday, and like you said, they will be long gone by then

PS. PPCs new website looks awful. It hurts my eyes. And I don't know if it's just crappy work internet, but it seems a lot slower now too


----------



## BradleyW

Hello fellow water cooling members!








Just wanted to ask what tubing size and type you all use. I'm planning a 900D build with 4 to 5 Rads. There will be some tight bends. I always use ID 1/2 OD 3/4 Advanced LRT clear. It's very hard to work with. Feels very stiff and does not bend well. Makes water cooling very difficult. Any solutions?
Thank you.


----------



## VSG

You can go one size smaller in tubing (7/16" x 5/8") for example but that will also mean switching all fittings as well. If that's not an option, what about using angled adapters and fittings?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can go one size smaller in tubing (7/16" x 5/8") for example but that will also mean switching all fittings as well. If that's not an option, what about using angled adapters and fittings?


Thanks for your reply.
Yeah, angled fittings will help. I am using some right now. However, things are going to be tight on the pump area. That's my main issue. I plan to sit the pump on the 900D's floor, in between 2 Rads. Things will be tight on the inlet and outlet I suspect. This is a tough one.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello fellow water cooling members!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to ask what tubing size and type you all use. I'm planning a 900D build with 4 to 5 Rads. There will be some tight bends. I always use ID 1/2 OD 3/4 Advanced LRT clear. It's very hard to work with. Feels very stiff and does not bend well. Makes water cooling very difficult. Any solutions?
> Thank you.


I've heard 3/8 ID 5/8 OD is very good for making tighter turns without kinking.


----------



## VSG

Mind posting pictures so we can see what's going on? I had a 900D before so I am familiar with most loop configurations in there. The amount of rads you have will definitely complicate things and not necessarily aid in performance much.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thanks for your reply.
> Yeah, angled fittings will help. I am using some right now. However, things are going to be tight on the pump area. That's my main issue. I plan to sit the pump on the 900D's floor, in between 2 Rads. Things will be tight on the inlet and outlet I suspect. This is a tough one.


I am personally using koolance 3/8ID x 1/2" OD primo tubing. 10 Ft was 25$$?? I read a bunch about what size is more efficient but bigger doesn't mean better except for asthetics. Good luck though!! Super Jealous of the 900D. I have the 750D and I love it so much though. I've had enough part changes from research on my first build to have a graveyard of parts







That 900D is on my wishlist in amazon. Look forward to seeing the build

The Cautious One


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello fellow water cooling members!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to ask what tubing size and type you all use. I'm planning a 900D build with 4 to 5 Rads. There will be some tight bends. I always use ID 1/2 OD 3/4 Advanced LRT clear. It's very hard to work with. Feels very stiff and does not bend well. Makes water cooling very difficult. Any solutions?
> Thank you.


Lots of 90's and 45's, 1/2" OD 3/8" ID looks pretty good, imo, although it'd be pretty small in a 900D.


----------



## BradleyW

+1 to all,
Thank you.


----------



## morencyam

I second the notion of 7/16 x 5/8. It's all I've ever run and all I will ever run.

If you need to, you could probably use 7/16 x 5/8, or even 3/8 x 1/2, just in the pump area to make the bends easier. And since it's in the bottom compartment nobody will see it or ever know it's a different tubing size


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> +1 to all,
> Thank you.


I know I said this already but if you can post a picture of your proposed loop then it will be a lot easier for everyone to help out (and for you to plan out the loop).


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> *
> seem to be a specific batch as shoggy replied. Working on it with him*


Replacement waterblock shipped out on second business day.
@Shoggy Great job Aquacomputer


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I know I said this already but if you can post a picture of your proposed loop then it will be a lot easier for everyone to help out (and for you to plan out the loop).




Not sure if this would work. I fear there might not be enough room for the pump. I also think there might not be room for the front 360mm Rad and the 360mm Rad stood on it's side (Because the tank with inlet outlet ports add overall length).

However, according to Corsair:
Quote:


> Radiator Mount Locations
> Front: up to 360mm
> Top: up to 420/480mm
> Rear: 120/140mm
> Side: up to 420/480mm


----------



## VSG

Do you already have all the rads? If not, I would definitely suggest a few options there:

1) Ditch the 140mm in the back, single rads don't do much in context here. It can also interfere with heatsinks on some boards and also terribly complicate loops in the CPU area.

2) What PSU do you have? Length may/may not make that 240mm next to it worth while

3) I would go all rads with air going in (push or pull by itself doesn't convey the air flow direction) and have the single exhaust on the 120/140mm fan hole in the motherboard area. The 900D has a ton of openings so go as much in as possible to get any sort of positive pressure.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Do you already have all the rads? If not, I would definitely suggest a few options there:
> 
> 1) Ditch the 140mm in the back, single rads don't do much in context here. It can also interfere with heatsinks on some boards and also terribly complicate loops in the CPU area.
> 
> 2) What PSU do you have? Length may/may not make that 240mm next to it worth while
> 
> 3) I would go all rads with air going in (push or pull by itself doesn't convey the air flow direction) and have the single exhaust on the 120/140mm fan hole in the motherboard area. The 900D has a ton of openings so go as much in as possible to get any sort of positive pressure.


I have the Seasonic X1250 Gold PSU.
I don't have all these Rads. I only have a 360 and 420 (And they are 50 to 60mm thick without fans).
Just out of interest, would my plan work as it stands (In terms of everything fitting)?


----------



## VSG

You will be ok with the 240mm next to the PSU then









The only potential issues I see are the 360mm rad- depending on the size of the endtanks, it may hit the 5.25" bay cage- and the 140mm rad which may interfere with the motherboard heatsinks. All these depend on the exact products used of course.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> 
> 
> OT: Everyone else posts the same pics here as they do in the EK club thread... so why not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very Very nice!

Looking through that build log now.







(started 2011 no wonder I havent seen it lol)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

what fans does everyone use for performance + sorta quiet? cost effective(cheap)
looks like I'll have to get corsair sp120s but they are more than I'd like to spend seeing as I need a minimum of 14 closer to 28
\newegg had tos bitfenix white 120s on sale but they seemed a lil low performance


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Wow, that's bad. I haven't had anything close to that happen here. Have you used the rig on for elongated periods of time? Just wondering if time was a factor here.
> 
> @Frozen-Q, @Steveo2400


I had a dual bay res from them leak over 1/3 of a liter of distilled inside my old case. Damn near killed my power supply plus my old 7970 with a Komodo block on it







While I respect them as a company, I will try to not go near their products until they fix their quality issues. Keep in mind my res was bought over a year and a half ago, it was in my Big Red/Red Nuke Rig









-Zepp


----------



## sinnedone

To "ME" personally all fans are quiet at 1000 rpm or less. Since that's what I'm going for I simply picked the best fans that I liked. I figure if you have too little rad and need to bump the rpm's up a bit then find some fan round ups with decent audio to see if "you" can hear any difference. I know I looked at a couple and Martins fan roundup stuck out.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I have big thick rads but I also overclock the living hell out of everything and ,most of these things are hot to begin with

by quiet i mean not as loud as a bgear bblaster 120. or a delta fan

I just want it quieter than most high performance fans. i don't really care about sound just so long as it doesn't make my ears ring.(which is what my broken bgear is doing to me rightnow, has a messed up bearing so theres this high frequency sound thats really starting to get to me

and I don't really like corsair SP120s for their price, and them being corsair, and their rings. i wish it was just black


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello fellow water cooling members!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to ask what tubing size and type you all use. I'm planning a 900D build with 4 to 5 Rads. There will be some tight bends. I always use ID 1/2 OD 3/4 Advanced LRT clear. It's very hard to work with. Feels very stiff and does not bend well. Makes water cooling very difficult. Any solutions?
> Thank you.


16/10mm when I used to use soft tube.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what fans does everyone use for performance + sorta quiet? cost effective(cheap)
> looks like I'll have to get corsair sp120s but they are more than I'd like to spend seeing as I need a minimum of 14 closer to 28
> \newegg had tos bitfenix white 120s on sale but they seemed a lil low performance


Alpenfohn's FTW.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Wow, that's bad. I haven't had anything close to that happen here. Have you used the rig on for elongated periods of time? Just wondering if time was a factor here.
> 
> @Frozen-Q, @Steveo2400
> 
> 
> 
> I had a dual bay res from them leak over 1/3 of a liter of distilled inside my old case. Damn near killed my power supply plus my old 7970 with a Komodo block on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I respect them as a company, I will try to not go near their products until they fix their quality issues. Keep in mind my res was bought over a year and a half ago, it was in my Big Red/Red Nuke Rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp
Click to expand...

You are one of many....
Sadly,its the only thing holding me back on that new res they have out....


----------



## nismoskyline

My brother had been wanting a gaming computer for a long time... I think this should be a good start for his build


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I have the Seasonic X1250 Gold PSU.
> I don't have all these Rads. I only have a 360 and 420 (And they are 50 to 60mm thick without fans).
> Just out of interest, would my plan work as it stands (In terms of everything fitting)?


I did my build much the same as yours with a 360 top, 480 window side, and 240 back side. I have a 250ml res where you have yours pictured and my pump straight below it on the floor. Everything in mine got to be pretty darn close so I am unsure if you would be able to do the front rad. Granted I dont know what you are trying to cool but my setup stayed plenty chilly when gaming. Heats the room up pretty bad though.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You will be ok with the 240mm next to the PSU then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The only potential issues I see are the 360mm rad- depending on the size of the endtanks*, it may hit the 5.25" bay cage- and the 140mm rad which may interfere with the motherboard heatsinks. All these depend on the exact products used of course.


Good point. I had planned to have the end tanks facing downwards away from the 5.25 bay, but I assume this would not fit due to where the screw mounting holes are!








I will be using this 360mm Rad: "Phobya G-Changer V2 360 Full Copper"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> I did my build much the same as yours with a 360 top, 480 window side, and 240 back side. I have a 250ml res where you have yours pictured and my pump straight below it on the floor. Everything in mine got to be pretty darn close so I am unsure if you would be able to do the front rad. Granted I dont know what you are trying to cool but my setup stayed plenty chilly when gaming. Heats the room up pretty bad though.


Could you take a little look at your rig and see if a 360 would fit? I'm worried it will collide with the 240 back side Rad, due to the 360's thickness.

Thank you.


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Good point. I had planned to have the end tanks facing downwards away from the 5.25 bay, but I assume this would not fit due to where the screw mounting holes are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be using this 360mm Rad: "Phobya G-Changer V2 360 Full Copper"
> Could you take a little look at your rig and see if a 360 would fit? I'm worried it will collide with the 240 back side Rad, due to the 360's thickness.
> 
> Thank you.


I will gladly put up what pictures I have on hand. If there are specific places you would like to see that I dont put up just ask and I will take pictures and/or measurements tonight.




























The last images is testing everything out with a micro res.

<---Back side (Pump) Front Side--->


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> I will gladly put up what pictures I have on hand. If there are specific places you would like to see that I dont put up just ask and I will take pictures and/or measurements tonight.


Excellent, thank you.
Edit:
Those images have got me thinking that the 360 front Rad might not fit because there is nowhere for the end tanks to go.
What tubing are you using? It looks fairly flexible yet sturdy at the same time.
I pretty much want as much Rad space as I can get. I plan to comfortably cool 5960X and 390X CFX all overclocked.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 16/10mm when I used to use soft tube.
> *Alpenfohn's FTW.*
> You are one of many....
> Sadly,its the only thing holding me back on that new res they have out....


Any news of them coming to US/Canada vendors?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

^what he said. I mean I could probably get a wholesale order with how many I want though, but shipping from EU is the worst. no way in hell could I afford them.

we should open up a thread and make a wholesale order


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Excellent, thank you.
> Edit:
> Those images have got me thinking that the 360 front Rad might not fit because there is nowhere for the end tanks to go.
> What tubing are you using? It looks fairly flexible yet sturdy at the same time.
> I pretty much want as much Rad space as I can get. I plan to comfortably cool 5960X and 390X CFX all overclocked.


That is 3/8 5/8 tubing. If you need to make a few tight bends it helps to throw that piece of tubing in some boiling water for a little bit and then put it in while it is hot a flexible. FWIW my CPU get up to about 65C @ 4.7GHz (all the water in the world wouldnt help to bring that temp much lower w/o deliding) and the GPUs never have gone above 40C.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what fans does everyone use for performance + sorta quiet? cost effective(cheap)
> looks like I'll have to get corsair sp120s but they are more than I'd like to spend seeing as I need a minimum of 14 closer to 28
> \newegg had tos bitfenix white 120s on sale but they seemed a lil low performance


Enermax make some decent fans, especially the "T.B. Silence" and "Cluster" series (8-10 CHF piece here) (PWM, Manual RPM and a lot of other options) (T.B. Silence are schmexy with a metallic frame) (Detachable fan blades for easy cleaning)
They recently made a new fan series, axed on air pressure (better for rads), named "Twister Pressure" but I didn't tested it now

EDIT: Just checked the prices on USA, 10 USD piece


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Very Very nice!
> 
> Looking through that build log now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (started 2011 no wonder I havent seen it lol)


Thanks!

Yeah I just slapped my work for this revision right on the old work log. In hindsight maybe not the greatest idea.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> ^what he said. I mean I could probably get a wholesale order with how many I want though, but shipping from EU is the worst. no way in hell could I afford them.
> 
> *we should open up a thread and make a wholesale order*


I'd be all over that... unfortunately group buys are a no no here anymore as per Admin


----------



## tatmMRKIV

someone with alot of money should order a huge quantity and sell them through forums at a reasonable price then xD

yeha that group buys thing is pretty lame but I guess understandable. too much money going around no accountability..

probably make a descent sizzed order then once that sells out make another. just like a business


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> ^what he said. I mean I could probably get a wholesale order with how many I want though, but shipping from EU is the worst. no way in hell could I afford them.
> 
> we should open up a thread and make a wholesale order


I'm pretty sure group buys were dubbed a no-go by the site after the Gentle Typhoon disaster.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I seen that now so someone should just buy a ton and sell them thhrough the thread. at a price thats reflective of money spent.

but again not likely to happen.

I will probably just but some other fans
or pester someone overseas to send me some


----------



## VSG

All I can say is fill up their support form: http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/support-englisch/support-englisch

Last I heard was "soon" with a smiley but no replies since.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I might just grab some from specialtech once they get in. looking at 420 for 28 pures shipped probably, but they aren't in stock at the moment
might be 357 or so price includes VAT and I shouldn't have to pay that in the us

I amjust gonna try contacting ahplo directly


----------



## VSG

I would much rather get the Cougars from Newegg when they next go on sale, I got 8 140mm CF-V14HB's for $12 each and they look and perform great in my opinion. Note that VAT isn't applicable for you but import duty may be.


----------



## snef

Thanks

now with GPU and e little idea of the tubing


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Great pictures. And I really like those fans.


----------



## Drizztly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> 
> 
> My brother had been wanting a gaming computer for a long time... I think this should be a good start for his build


So jealous right now!









Tried to order one, but shipping to germany is about 40$ and the site did not work properly. After checkout and payment via paypal I couldn't place the order. So no Ice Force for me


----------



## Yungbenny911

Ya'll's PC's are so slick!







. I'm not even sure if mine qualifies







. I'm still half-way there... I need to add my future GPU's to the loop and take off that ugly corsair H55, get some angled fittings to make it look cleaner, and do some extra UV paint detailing here and there.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizztly*
> 
> So jealous right now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to order one, but shipping to germany is about 40$ and the site did not work properly. After checkout and payment via paypal I couldn't place the order. So no Ice Force for me


actually no iceforce for me either..







after successfully placing the order, 2 hours later I got an email saying they didn't have it anymore. So I ended up just refunding. I'm really bummed out


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> now with GPU and e little idea of the tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like what I see so far. A little "out of the norm" color scheme for you. I like the sharkoon fans too. This is the first build I've seen with these fans. Looks great!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> +1 to all,
> Thank you.










I appreciate it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Hey!! I have this product in my hands right now and will be installing this in my 750D right behind the front intake fans of the case. http://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-NexXxoS-Copper-240mm-Radiator/dp/B007P05XUU/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411592548&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=alphacool+240+60mm+rad

My question is that they have a bleed valve on it. A single valve on the "bottom" of the Rad. Does it matter if I am not using it and have the bleed valve towards the bottom of the case to make it easier to run tubing to the inlet and outlet to accomodate my loop?


----------



## BradleyW

Does tubing I/D sizes have any effect on temperatures? Google search shows mixed results.


----------



## VSG

Not really, in the end the side of the G1/4 port limits flow as it is. Just don't go too small- it will flex all over the place if you are bending it.


----------



## Nomadskid

About to begin my first water-cooled build this sunday


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not really, in the end the side of the G1/4 port limits flow as it is. Just don't go too small- it will flex all over the place if you are bending it.


I find 1/2 3/4 impossible to work with. It just does not allow for any bending at all. If you force it, it puts strain on whatever you attach it to. That's with angled fittings! So what size would you go with, to allow easier bending without kinking or reduced performance? If smaller tubing so much as harms performance by 1c, I need to know. Thanks buddy!


----------



## VSG

7/16" x 5/8" will allow way better flexibility, you can go even one size smaller and do 3/8" x 1/2" or 3/8" x 5/8" as well.


----------



## stickg1

So does anyone have a D5 bay res that would be interesting in trading for a EK D5 150 tube res?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 7/16" x 5/8" will allow way better flexibility, you can go even one size smaller and do 3/8" x 1/2" or 3/8" x 5/8" as well.


Any performance loss?
What do you use?
Thank you.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Any performance loss?
> What do you use?
> Thank you.


Nah, the most common sizes of acrylic tubing is 3/8" x 1/2" and 10/12mm (even smaller) and that's not been an issue to anyone. Get 1' of each size and see what you like before getting more.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hey!! I have this product in my hands right now and will be installing this in my 750D right behind the front intake fans of the case. http://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-NexXxoS-Copper-240mm-Radiator/dp/B007P05XUU/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411592548&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=alphacool+240+60mm+rad
> 
> My question is that they have a bleed valve on it. A single valve on the "bottom" of the Rad. Does it matter if I am not using it and have the bleed valve towards the bottom of the case to make it easier to run tubing to the inlet and outlet to accomodate my loop?


It doesn't matter man. Either use it as intended or don't us it at all. If you choose not to use it all, then orientation doesn't matter.

I have my 360 monsta bleeder at the bottom and use it as a drain port.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nah, the most common sizes of acrylic tubing is 3/8" x 1/2" and 10/12mm (even smaller) and that's not been an issue to anyone. Get 1' of each size and see what you like before getting more.


Thanks for the info.
I kind of have it in my head that I will see a performance loss, but I guess it really is only in my head. I just hate how rock hard 1/2 - 3/4 tubing is.
Can 3/8 1/2 handle good bends without being kinked or screwed up?


----------



## VSG

Note that 3/8" x 5/8" has the same wall thickness as 1/2" x 3/4" and that really dictates bending more than anything. I would go 7/16" x 5/8" myself.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The stiffness you are talking about is less to do with the size of the tubing and more with the type of tubing. Primochill have dropped the amount of plasticiser in it so that less leaches out. A rubber based tube like norprene is more flexible without leaching but the same results can be had by using heat and training while warm. For really tight bends there is really no replacement for angled fittings.


----------



## VSG

^ That too


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> It doesn't matter man. Either use it as intended or don't us it at all. If you choose not to use it all, then orientation doesn't matter.
> 
> I have my 360 monsta bleeder at the bottom and use it as a drain port.


Appreciate that. Didn't know if the inside of the radiator was designed differently due to it being made with a bleed port. You know? Thanks for the quick response.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Appreciate that. Didn't know if the inside of the radiator was designed differently due to it being made with a bleed port. You know? Thanks for the quick response.


No problem.







The fluid will travel through the channels all the same.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The stiffness you are talking about is less to do with the size of the tubing and more with the type of tubing. Primochill have dropped the amount of plasticiser in it so that less leaches out. A rubber based tube like norprene is more flexible without leaching but the same results can be had by using heat and training while warm. For really tight bends there is really no replacement for angled fittings.


Heat and training while warm?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The stiffness you are talking about is less to do with the size of the tubing and more with the type of tubing. Primochill have dropped the amount of plasticiser in it so that less leaches out. A rubber based tube like norprene is more flexible without leaching but the same results can be had by using heat and training while warm. For really tight bends there is really no replacement for angled fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> Heat and training while warm?
Click to expand...

A bowl of warm water to dip the tubing into before applying it on compression fittings is a life-saver sometimes.
I couldn't have done it with my 1/2 3/4 tubing otherwise. Just make sure that the water isn't too hot, and that you don't dip it in for too long, around ~70'c is fine IMO.

And 'training' is like bending the tubing while it is warm and flexible into the way you want it to be repeatedly, and hopefully it will conform to that shape when cooler.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> No problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fluid will travel through the channels all the same.


You won't know if you don't ask


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> A bowl of warm water to dip the tubing into before applying it on compression fittings is a life-saver sometimes.
> I couldn't have done it with my 1/2 3/4 tubing otherwise. Just make sure that the water isn't too hot, and that you don't dip it in for too long, around ~65-70'c is fine IMO.
> 
> And 'training' is like bending the tubing while it is warm and flexible into the way you want it to be repeatedly, and hopefully it will conform to that shape when cooler.


Oh I thought he meant dip the whole tubing into the warm water in order to make tighter bends.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Ya'll's PC's are so slick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm not even sure if mine qualifies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm still half-way there... I need to add my future GPU's to the loop and take off that ugly corsair H55, get some angled fittings to make it look cleaner, and do some extra UV paint detailing here and there.


Nice looking rig








I actually thought it was an In Win D-Frame before reading your sig.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> A bowl of warm water to dip the tubing into before applying it on compression fittings is a life-saver sometimes.
> I couldn't have done it with my 1/2 3/4 tubing otherwise. Just make sure that the water isn't too hot, and that you don't dip it in for too long, around ~65-70'c is fine IMO.
> 
> And 'training' is like bending the tubing while it is warm and flexible into the way you want it to be repeatedly, and hopefully it will conform to that shape when cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I thought he meant dip the whole tubing into the warm water in order to make tighter bends.
Click to expand...

If you do that it will just all be super soft, and kink really easily.

And if you're unlucky that kink will stay there when it cools down


----------



## Yungbenny911

. Thanks @Buehlar , i did a lot of modifications to the 600t for it to do what i wanted. Nothing the trusty dremel can't cut


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> If you do that it will just all be super soft, and kink really easily.
> 
> And if you're unlucky that kink will stay there when it cools down


Sounds about right. So I'd be OK moving from 1/2 ID to 3/8 ID without a performance drop? Most people say I will be fine.


----------



## VSG

Why don't you try the heat and train technique on the existing tubing first? That will save a lot of money if it works out.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why don't you try the heat and train technique on the existing tubing first? That will save a lot of money if it works out.


I will see if I have any tubing left to test on. I might have a strip left.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> If you do that it will just all be super soft, and kink really easily.
> 
> And if you're unlucky that kink will stay there when it cools down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds about right. So I'd be OK moving from 1/2 ID to 3/8 ID without a performance drop? Most people say I will be fine.
Click to expand...

There is no performance gain/loss between the standard tubing sizes


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> There is no performance gain/loss between the standard tubing sizes


Thanks for all who have helped and +1 to all. Also thanks everyone, for being patient with me.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You won't know if you don't ask


That's right "TheCautiousOne" lol... Better safe than sorry.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

To get really tight bends with flexible tubing what I do is use a tube bending spring slipped inside the tube, bend it to shape and zip tie it together, then dip it back and forth between boiling and ice water a few times. It's a method that works really well to get tighter bends without kinking than you ever could otherwise, and works with any size tubing as long as you have the appropriately sized bending spring.

Here's a guide:
http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/6

edit: The first time I followed that guide I did like it said and placed the tube in boiling water "for a minute or two" and that proved to be too long. I actually got the bending spring stuck inside the tube. It depends on the tubing being used but I've had better results dipping for closer to 30-45 seconds at a time.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> To get really tight bends with flexible tubing what I do is use a tube bending spring slipped inside the tube, bend it to shape and zip tie it together, then dip it back and forth between boiling and ice water a few times. It's a method that works really well to get tighter bends without kinking that you ever could otherwise, and works with any size tubing as long as you have the appropriately sized bending spring.
> 
> Here's a guide:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/6


Looks pretty interesting. Thank you.


----------



## cyphon

Delivery day







.

HWLabs Nemisis 360 GTX was the highlight


----------



## Yungbenny911

Dayum... That looks sickkk...


----------



## BradleyW

That's a cool looking Rad!


----------



## VSG

That it is


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Yup, still definitely want the Nemesis "North American Edition". That bumpyness look downright sexy!


----------



## cyphon

I just love the fin pattern on it


----------



## LiquidHaus

im really bummed about ppcs' website face lift.


----------



## VSG

Search actually works for now and even suggests immediately so that alone was plenty enough for me to like it.


----------



## Blackspots

Ok, if I have one video card (GTX970), can I get away with one radiator to cool the entire system (a 360, GPU and CPU)?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Ok, if I have one video card (GTX970), can I get away with one radiator to cool the entire system (a 360, GPU and CPU)?


Absolutely. You wont have record breaking temps, but very much fine.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Ok, if I have one video card (GTX970), can I get away with one radiator to cool the entire system (a 360, GPU and CPU)?


Of course.

If you want a good delta temp however... Well, that depends on a lot of things.

Edit: ninja'd


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> im really bummed about ppcs' website face lift.


I am too. I sent them a message about it and their response was "we're working on it still." I also added that I thought they should add the option to view the classic website


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i like the facelift but its so slow....


----------



## morencyam

Terribly slow. I thought it was just our crappy internet at work, but I checked when I got home and it wasn't any better


----------



## lowfat

PPCS slow? I don't even load for me lol.

EDIT: In non watercooling news I finished the backside cable management today. Pretty close to 100 feet of wire right here.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol it will eventually!

Gentleman we have a new benchmark.. time how long it takes your pc to load ppcs' website.

it takes that long for every page to load too. it sucks


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i like the facelift but its so slow....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I am too. I sent them a message about it and their response was "we're working on it still." I also added that I thought they should add the option to view the classic website


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Terribly slow. I thought it was just our crappy internet at work, but I checked when I got home and it wasn't any better


I like the new interface because they added a wishlist page. But it is incredibly slow (bogs down Chrome) as it loads.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> im really bummed about ppcs' website face lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am too. I sent them a message about it and their response was "we're working on it still." I also added that I thought they should add the option to view the classic website
Click to expand...

I told them I wanted to view items by category and not by brand :/ That was 6 months ago and they replied promptly "expect big changes soon"...

I like ppcs a lot and they always send extras and random goodies when I order even the smallest things. I also noticed that I choose the slowest shipping every time and they sent me a message once letting me know they appreciate my frequent business and that they will try and help me save money as much as possible for going through them frequently. After that I've gotten 2 - 3 day shipping with every order


----------



## VSG

Extras or random goodies for free from them? I can assure you that was likely a mistake lol.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Extras or random goodies for free from them? I can assure you that was likely a mistake lol.


This. In the dozen or so times I have ordered from them I have never received any free extras. Nor have I ever received an email from them when I didn't send one first


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Extras or random goodies for free from them? I can assure you that was likely a mistake lol.


hahaha right?

when their holiday coupons come around...spend $1k, get 3% off -___-

that being said, with every block you get you normally get your size choice of barbed fittings which I think is cool


----------



## tatmMRKIV

as opposed to frozencpu's sales?
atleast performance has sales and is cheaper in general


----------



## failwheeldrive

They do send out stickers and tshirts occasionally, but it seems kind of random to me. I think the only times I've gotten stuff like that is on smaller orders oddly enough... never seems to happen when I spend $500+.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> that being said, with every block you get you normally get your size choice of barbed fittings which I think is cool


No one uses barbs anymore. IMO companies are just wasting money including fittings.


----------



## failwheeldrive

I use barbs. Just not the cheapo ones you get for free with blocks and certain rads. I kind of prefer them to comp fittings now... they're easier to use and are just as reliable from my experience.

But yeah, totally agree. Unless they're giving out free Bitspowers it's a waste imo. I have a couple dozen EK and XSPC barbs sitting around my house lol.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I told them I wanted to view items by category and not by brand :/ That was 6 months ago and they replied promptly "expect big changes soon"...
> I like ppcs a lot and they always send extras and random goodies when I order even the smallest things. I also noticed that I choose the slowest shipping every time and they sent me a message once letting me know they appreciate my frequent business and that they will try and help me save money as much as possible for going through them frequently. After that I've gotten 2 - 3 day shipping with every order


I've ordered so many times in the past 2 months, spent over a hundred just on shipping. Freebie not even once.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> No one uses barbs anymore. IMO companies are just wasting money including fittings.


i'll use them for cleaning out blocks or rads with cheap tubing, plus i just like hoarding barb fittings


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Extras or random goodies for free from them? I can assure you that was likely a mistake lol.


They sent me a pair of earbuds with a mic on them, lanyards, a free bottle of primochill black dye, once I got 8x xspc barb fittings when I ordered some clear xspc tubing and a free black and white xspc temp lcd screen w/ g1/4 temp probe thingy another time lol... Thats about all I can think of but I believe I may have received 1 or 2 things other than that in the 2 or 3 years I've ordered from them. The shipping thing is what I've been most thankful for.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I use barbs. Just not the cheapo ones you get for free with blocks and certain rads. I kind of prefer them to comp fittings now... they're easier to use and are just as reliable from my experience.
> 
> But yeah, totally agree. Unless they're giving out free Bitspowers it's a waste imo. I have a couple dozen EK and XSPC barbs sitting around my house lol.


I agree w/ the barb thing, I have a box of like 40 barb fittings of various sizes lol


----------



## Jameswalt1

The barbs they throw in is a bit silly, generous enough, but unnecessary.

My only real complaint about PPC's is their use of packing peanuts and having to dig through them to find my parts - those things ALWAYS end up all over the floor lol.

Having to dispose of cardboard boxes sucks enough, but piles of packing peanuts just adds another layer


----------



## alancsalt

Not the packing peanuts made from soya beans that u can put on the garden to dissolve in the next rain?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Not the packing peanuts made from soya beans that u can put on the garden to dissolve in the next rain?


Ha that's interesting, I never actually knew that about packing peanuts! I just googled and read about that after your post. Still hate digging through them though


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> The barbs they throw in is a bit silly, generous enough, but unnecessary.
> 
> My only real complaint about PPC's is their use of packing peanuts and having to dig through them to find my parts - those things ALWAYS end up all over the floor lol.
> 
> Having to dispose of cardboard boxes sucks enough, but piles of packing peanuts just adds another layer


I actually needed one of my free barbs when i redid my loop and found i had cross threaded one of my compressions (gotta stop working on this stuff after 10 hour shifts at work lol) Unfortunately the barb is still in my system as bills keep coming up and i havent gotten around to ordering a new fitting. Also, im still not sure i want to buy one of the monsoon fittings to match my build now that they are silver plated


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> im really bummed about ppcs' website face lift.


Lol It's like watching the final episode of your favorite tv series aint it? I haven't been to the main/desktop site yet but I'm glad they've finally got a mobile version now.


----------



## Deedaz

does the discount code still work? i was messing with it yesterday and it didnt seem to be working anymore


----------



## friskiest

For all you guys with shiny new RVEs, here is something to consider





Personally not a fan at all...


----------



## Hefner

I think it's brilliant. 2 fittings instead of 6 which saves money and also looks cleaner.


----------



## Willi

looks cleaner, more practical and I personally love the "3D maze of channels" look it has.
A black POM version with no engravings and just two black fittings might be awesome for a "stealth" look on the mobo area.
I personally find the clutter of pipes, fittings and the occasional 90° elbow somewhat polluted visually when you are trying to link the CPU waterblock, mem blocks, mobo and the 4-way SLY/Xfire setup people tend to stick to those mobos.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> The barbs they throw in is a bit silly, generous enough, but unnecessary.
> 
> My only real complaint about PPC's is their use of packing peanuts and having to dig through them to find my parts - those things ALWAYS end up all over the floor lol.
> 
> Having to dispose of cardboard boxes sucks enough, but piles of packing peanuts just adds another layer


This.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We've got a large range of radiators coming in the next ~6 months, all with the refreshed PE style.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Different fan sizes or also thickness changes?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'll let your imagination run wild


Just hush now and take my money.
I'll take a 280 and 560 ... preferably in a dual row thickness.

The PE 120's have ruined all other rads for me.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's right "TheCautiousOne" lol... Better safe than sorry.


Like How I did that


----------



## aaroc

I have a WaterCool Mora 360 without fans and want to install 18x 120mm fans connected to one or two channels of an Aquaero 6. What cables/connectors/splitters do you recommend? The mora 360 is bellow the desk where the computer lives and the water loop hose is 1.5 meter long. Thanks!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ready to tidy up cables and see what other improvements I can make. I think I could use some Acrylic Tubing in some places now for sure.







I am ready to see a temp change on my overclock. I was sitting at 87c on Realbench 2.2 at 100% load before the second rad at 4.5ghz for 15min using up to 16gb of Ram. Now that I added the second rad (the 240 alphacool) I expect better temps!! Should I put the 240 as exhausting out of the front panel or into the case?

The Cautious ONe


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I have a WaterCool Mora 360 without fans and want to install 18x 120mm fans connected to one or two channels of an Aquaero 6. What cables/connectors/splitters do you recommend? The mora 360 is bellow the desk where the computer lives and the water loop hose is 1.5 meter long. Thanks!


I use 2 NZXT Grids with the tach sensor modification done for the push side and pull side, you can then use an appropriately sized 3 pin fan cable.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I really need a reccommendation for a drain valve that I can put into my extra inlet port of the 270 XSPC D5 combo pump/res!! I am using a koolance t-style drain valve on my inlet line and I am dreading doing maintenance on my loop. Any ideas?? A plug or.... I have no idea...


----------



## snef




----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Living in Pittsburgh has made me hate black and yellow BUT I think our love has been rekindled with this build... Absolutely amazing!!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Living in Pittsburgh has made me hate black and yellow BUT I think our love has been rekindled with this build... Absolutely amazing!!


You and me both! Who-Dey!









Amazing yet again snef. Your work always amazes me


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> My only real complaint about PPC's is their use of packing peanuts


UGH! So much this right here^^^

Then my son gets a hold of it and thinks its great to throw them all over the place.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> UGH! So much this right here^^^
> 
> Then my son gets a hold of it and thinks its great to throw them all over the place.


Packing peanuts are the bane of my existence


----------



## sdmf74

Nice build snef!!! That's really making me hate this skinny EVGA PSU cable set. Wonder if there are any options out there for cables for 1300watt EVGA? Dont really wanna sleeve em myself.


----------



## stickg1

Still watercooled brah!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Nice build snef!!! That's really making me hate this skinny EVGA PSU cable set. Wonder if there are any options out there for cables for 1300watt EVGA? Dont really wanna sleeve em myself.


I am working with this guy for my EVGA PSU: http://www.hexagonpc.com/


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Still watercooled brah!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Nice build snef!!! That's really making me hate this skinny EVGA PSU cable set. Wonder if there are any options out there for cables for 1300watt EVGA? Dont really wanna sleeve em myself.


Thanks

your power supply is a G2?

Ensourced do a full cable set with the color and pattern you want for EVGA G2

and another one who do this is MODDIY,

seriously i don't save any penny by do it my self, if I need something very special or not available, I will do it, but all other will be by Ensourced


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am working with this guy for my EVGA PSU: http://www.hexagonpc.com/


Right on, I might Have to get a quote. Let us know how it turns out.
Ill check out ensourced too . Yeah supernova g2. Thanx


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Nice build snef!!! That's really making me hate this skinny EVGA PSU cable set. Wonder if there are any options out there for cables for 1300watt EVGA? Dont really wanna sleeve em myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> your power supply is a G2?
> 
> Ensourced do a full cable set with the color and pattern you want for EVGA G2
> 
> and another one who do this is MODDIY,
> 
> seriously *i don't save any penny by do it my self, if I need something very special or not available, I will do it, but all other will be by Ensourced*
Click to expand...

But its not about saving money,its about modding and ability,throwing money at stuff does not give a sense of achievement that doing it yourself would.
Its a crap job,i know this but it is easy and showcases your skill.

Just my 2c.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But its not about saving money,its about modding and ability,throwing money at stuff does not give a sense of achievement that doing it yourself would.
> Its a crap job,i know this but it is easy and showcases your skill.
> 
> Just my 2c.


ohh you are 100% right,








always did my own cables and I will do a lot in future,

specially when I will need a custom length, or special color

but when I will build a for a client or a build to sell it after,......

on my 3 current project, 2 of them are made by me, one for the case we waiting







, need special length and special attention to details
and my server, Toxic snow, a specific color to match fan and coolant


----------



## Destrto

I don't like how PPC's has raised prices on a lot of things.


----------



## gdubc

They price match now though, so you just got to take them to task on it. They probably figure most people won't know to ask...


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> They price match now though, so you just got to take them to task on it. They probably figure most people won't know to ask...


Do they really? That's quite interesting.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> They price match now though, so you just got to take them to task on it. They probably figure most people won't know to ask...


Good tip. Did not know this.


----------



## psycho84

Quick and Dirty Shot ^^


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> They price match now though, so you just got to take them to task on it. They probably figure most people won't know to ask...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Do they really? That's quite interesting.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Good tip. Did not know this.


They mention it in their facebook post.

probably hoping no one will notice.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Can someone tell me why I am getting 89c using up to 16gb of ram, 4770k overclocked to 4.5ghz using 1.296v on core: Stress test is Asus Realbench 2.2 after 30min test??

My Current Loop




I feel like I am doing something wrong. These Temps are comparable to my H100i....









The Front 240 rad is set to exhaust (front panel is open)


----------



## timerwin63

Sounds like a bad mount to me. That, and as mentioned hundreds, if not thousands of times in the Haswell OC thread, use x264 to do your stress testing on Haswell...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Sounds like a bad mount to me. That, and as mentioned hundreds, if not thousands of times in the Haswell OC thread, use x264 to do your stress testing on Haswell...


Elaborate the bad mount. I am intrigued.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can someone tell me why I am getting 89c using up to 16gb of ram, 4770k overclocked to 4.5ghz using 1.296v on core: Stress test is Asus Realbench 2.2 after 30min test??
> 
> My Current Loop
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I am doing something wrong. These Temps are comparable to my H100i....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Front 240 rad is set to exhaust (front panel is open)


Sounds like a bad mount. Check the TIM spread, and believe it or not I have seen this many times... You did pull the sticker off of the cold plate of the CPU block, _right_?


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Elaborate the bad mount. I am intrigued.


I believe he means take off the CPU block clean, reapply thermal paste and reseat it


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Elaborate the bad mount. I am intrigued.


See >
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sounds like a bad mount. Check the TIM spread, and believe it or not I have seen this many times... You did pull the sticker off of the cold plate of the CPU block, _right_?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> See >


I have reapplied the Tim 3 times already. When I had the first round of Temp results I noticed right away that They were relative to my H100i a couple weeks ago. Since then I have added the 240mm rad. I used artic 5 tim the first and second reapply. Then used the Thermal paste supplied by EK with the supremacy water block used in my rig. They all have the same temps. Around 87c after 15-30 min on Realbench 2.2









Ambient temps in the House remain at 80F


----------



## stickg1

Man, sounds like Intel really did a number on your IHS mount. How long have you had the chip?


----------



## reedy777

It might be a bad t case mount so perhaps rma or remove tcase and replace Tim between chip and t case. On another subject can you all post your disapproval on the atrocious corsair k70 rgb logo change on there Facebook page and get others on board it's that serious


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Man, sounds like Intel really did a number on your IHS mount. How long have you had the chip?


I am overclocking considerably. Using 1.296 core V at 4.5ghz on the 4770k. Do you think I should delid?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am overclocking considerably. Using 1.296 core V at 4.5ghz on the 4770k. Do you think I should delid?


Looks like the next logical step to me.


----------



## stickg1

I would. But I'm the type that would even if I had a good mount. It carries some serious cons. Voiding warranty and potentially damaging the CPU. But the reward tends to be 4.5GHz+ at 1.35v or less with much better temps.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I would. But I'm the type that would even if I had a good mount. But the reward tends to be 4.5GHz+ at 1.35v or less with much better temps.


We will just get rid of the Con part... Sigh... I don't want to delid but I have battling temps since.... Juneish...?? I feel as though I should be in the 70c range while doing a stress test.


----------



## stickg1

You should, while it could be viewed as apples to oranges, my 3570K does 4.8GHz @ 1.31v around 65C hottest core. In a loop with a single 280X folding 24/7. 480mm of rad space. To me your 85C 4770K looks super hot.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Have you done a delid?


----------



## lowfat

I couldn't ever consider buying pre made cables. After you do a few systems you can get pretty damn good at them. Plus making them inside the case allows for getting correct cable lengths.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Quick and Dirty Shot ^^


Looks good.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Have you done a delid?


About a half dozen Ivy chips. PM me or check the delidded thread.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> We will just get rid of the Con part... Sigh... I don't want to delid but I have battling temps since.... Juneish...?? I feel as though I should be in the 70c range while doing a stress test.


You dont necessarily loose your warranty by delidding.. if you dont damage the IHS or the chip, the warranty should still be valid! a few folks on the delid thread has RMAed their delidded chip after it failed for other reasons than the delid.
Just make sure you dont do any physical damage to the chip or the IHS, meaning no dents / scratches in the lid or the PCB nor is it allowed to do lapping on the IHS.. the printing on top of the IHS has to match the printing on the chip. (dont ask me why)

The thing about ivy and haswell is, the glue that holds the IHS to the chip together, leaves a tiny gap between the IHS and the DIE.. it isnt really a problem when you are running stock or low OC.. the heat problems only shows once you go above 1.25v or so~ so remember to remove all the glue if you choose to delid.

I gained 19 degrees when I delidded my 4670k haswell, 4.6ghz @ 1.32v from 85C to 66C under stress test.
I used the hammer/vice method. Im using CLU between DIE->IHS and MX4 between IHS->Cooler.
The normal gain from deliding haswell and ivy is between 15-20 degrees (read the OP of Official Delidded Club / Guide It has a spreadsheet of all results posted in there.
Feel free to ask your questions there as well! tons of helpful folks in that thread, but make sure to read the OP first.. it answers a LOT of questions









Good luck! and happy temp hunting.


----------



## aerotracks

I've been on Haswell for 2 months now and my system's state is still.. temporary


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> I've been on Haswell for 2 months now and my system's state is still.. temporary


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Quick and Dirty Shot ^^


That looks awesome!

Question: what coolant is that? Mayhems?


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*


I better not tell you there's a G3258 in the socket


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> You dont necessarily loose your warranty by delidding.. if you dont damage the IHS or the chip, the warranty should still be valid! a few folks on the delid thread has RMAed their delidded chip after it failed for other reasons than the delid.
> Just make sure you dont do any physical damage to the chip or the IHS, meaning no dents / scratches in the lid or the PCB nor is it allowed to do lapping on the IHS.. the printing on top of the IHS has to match the printing on the chip. (dont ask me why)
> 
> The thing about ivy and haswell is, the glue that holds the IHS to the chip together, leaves a tiny gap between the IHS and the DIE.. it isnt really a problem when you are running stock or low OC.. the heat problems only shows once you go above 1.25v or so~ so remember to remove all the glue if you choose to delid.
> 
> I gained 19 degrees when I delidded my 4670k haswell, 4.6ghz @ 1.32v from 85C to 66C under stress test.
> I used the hammer/vice method. Im using CLU between DIE->IHS and MX4 between IHS->Cooler.
> The normal gain from deliding haswell and ivy is between 15-20 degrees (read the OP of Official Delidded Club / Guide It has a spreadsheet of all results posted in there.
> Feel free to ask your questions there as well! tons of helpful folks in that thread, but make sure to read the OP first.. it answers a LOT of questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck! and happy temp hunting.


I am going to get a blade from work today. I appreciate all of yalls help!! I really do. I just want to be loved.... by the computer...


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> I better not tell you there's a G3258 in the socket


You just did









Look at the graphic card, we can see it screaming, why not me? while the cpu has all that rad space!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> I better not tell you there's a G3258 in the socket


I'm just fascinated by the Rads


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You just did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the graphic card, we can see it screaming, why not me? while the cpu has all that rad space!


Haha yeah it does scream. Did a few benches the other night and got it up to 1220/1600 on the stock cooler.. not for the faint of heart.
Once I get out of maintenance mode, it'll look as it did a few months back:

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_74911yjye.jpg


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> I've been on Haswell for 2 months now and my system's state is still.. temporary


What reservoir and adapter is that? That pump is the Aquacomputer XT? Thanks!


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> What reservoir and adapter is that? That pump is the Aquacomputer XT? Thanks!


This guy: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3056

All you do is put it onto the aqua stream, no adapter needed. Nice compact solution.

Getting this thing off again is a pain in the neck, broke one pump cover (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1283) and had to order a spare one.


----------



## everclearhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Quick and Dirty Shot ^^


That looks awesome







The tubing is perfect! Nicely done man


----------



## sdmf74

I was wondereing if anyone had any experience with these fans Deepcool GF120 they are new but IDK how new. Migth not even be available yet.
I realize the company might not be top notch but they look kinda promising, nice aesthetics and customizable too.
from the manufacturer:
"The fan blade of GF120 comes with multiple color of polychrome, so you can customize your fan to match your aesthetic appreciation."



Its so hard to find great fans anymore (that look nice too)

Oh I assumed they meant paintable but i think they just come in different colors


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks good.


THX! I love your polished CPU Blocks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> That looks awesome!
> 
> Question: what coolant is that? Mayhems?


THX! Yes, Mayhems Pastel Mint Green









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *everclearhero*
> 
> That looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing is perfect! Nicely done man


THX!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> They mention it in their facebook post.
> 
> probably hoping no one will notice.


I have them liked on Facebook, but I've never seen them post anything.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have them liked on Facebook, but I've never seen them post anything.


Facebook is picky about what it shows you in the news posts. Things you like often get shown more. If you go to their facebook page it is on there on one of the newer posts and if you 'like' it and a couple of their other posts you will be more likely to see their newer posts as they post them. Sorry for the OT but the price match is good for all to be aware of.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> Haha yeah it does scream. Did a few benches the other night and got it up to 1220/1600 on the stock cooler.. not for the faint of heart.
> Once I get out of maintenance mode, it'll look as it did a few months back:
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_74911yjye.jpg


That's one good looking shot. Got any more pics of your build?


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> That's one good looking shot. Got any more pics of your build?


Found another one that's half decent. Why I tubed the way I did: It was very important for me to be able to physically remove graphics cards (only way to get access to battery and clear cmos) and cpu block out of the tower without having to drain the system or remove tubing. Swapping out CPUs (which I do quite a bit







) is a very quick deal that way.

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_7509iuu5v.jpg


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> Found another one that's half decent. Why I tubed the way I did: It was very important for me to be able to physically remove graphics cards and cpu block out of the system without having to drain the system or remove tubing. Swapping out CPUs (which I do quite a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) is a very quick deal that way.


Ah, never thought about it that way. No QD's needed, just some long flexible tubing. You could even put another card in temporarily to bench it!

Those Primochill angled fittings look boss, as well as the tubing and overall colored trims.


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Ah, never thought about it that way. No QD's needed, just some long flexible tubing. You could even put another card in temporarily to bench it!
> 
> Those Primochill angled fittings look boss, as well as the tubing and overall colored trims.


Yup, I did test a few graphics cards on air that way too







No bends, so CPU cooling is fine all the way.
Thanks, glad you like it.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> Yup, I did test a few graphics cards on air that way too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No bends, so CPU cooling is fine all the way.
> Thanks, glad you like it.


My tubing runs are short and with little wiggle room (also because it's in a really small case). Makes me hope I can test my new GTX 970 without dismantling the whole thing.


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> My tubing runs are short and with little wiggle room (also because it's in a really small case). Makes me hope I can test my new GTX 970 without dismantling the whole thing.


Saw the link in your signature, looks sweet!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> Saw the link in your signature, looks sweet!


Thanks







I'm meaning to move it to a retail case now, but I snapped newer pics of it in low lighting (cell phone light only) with long exposure. These pics should look better.


----------



## IT Diva

Houston . . . . .

We have liftoff . . . . . .

All the modules are complete and working. . .

I need to put in the electronics controls, but both the loops run fine and my little controller for the cold loop pumps and chillers interfaces with the solid state relays module and powers the chillers on and off just as planned.

The module with the programmable message fans is the solid state relays. . . . I probably went major overkill on the heatsinks, but I used what I had handy.

Darlene


----------



## Ironsmack

HOLY.

****.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Houston . . . . .
> 
> We have liftoff . . . . . .
> 
> All the modules are complete and working. . .
> 
> I need to put in the electronics controls, but both the loops run fine and my little controller for the cold loop pumps and chillers interfaces with the solid state relays module and powers the chillers on and off just as planned.
> 
> The module with the programmable message fans is the solid state relays. . . . I probably went major overkill on the heatsinks, but I used what I had handy.
> 
> Darlene


It's been a long time coming glad to see you finally got it running. What are your temperatures when both coolers are operating?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Houston . . . . .
> 
> We have liftoff . . . . . .
> 
> All the modules are complete and working. . .
> 
> I need to put in the electronics controls, but both the loops run fine and my little controller for the cold loop pumps and chillers interfaces with the solid state relays module and powers the chillers on and off just as planned.
> 
> The module with the programmable message fans is the solid state relays. . . . I probably went major overkill on the heatsinks, but I used what I had handy.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been a long time coming glad to see you finally got it running. What are your temperatures when both coolers are operating?
Click to expand...

This evening was its first run, so I had the control for the chillers in manual, and with small fft's running, I was into condensationville real quick.

I have a 25% mix of X-1 clear with distilled in the cold loop, and 25% mix of X-1 oil black in the warm loop.

Once I get the Aquaero in and all the temp sensors hooked up, I can start playing with it in earnest.

I still find it hard to believe I shoehorned so much stuff in that case . . . and I can remove the PSU cover to get at cables and such with all the plumbing in place.

I still need to make a little splash guard for the 24V PSU for the cold loop pumps, and maybe an extension forward of the PSU cover along the side of the exchangers module.

Darlene


----------



## whiteskymage

I want to know which AIO coolers fit in Graphite 380T. Can I fit H105 or maybe H110 (if i put some more holes in it)?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Houston . . . . .
> 
> We have liftoff . . . . . .
> 
> All the modules are complete and working. . .
> 
> I need to put in the electronics controls, but both the loops run fine and my little controller for the cold loop pumps and chillers interfaces with the solid state relays module and powers the chillers on and off just as planned.
> 
> The module with the programmable message fans is the solid state relays. . . . I probably went major overkill on the heatsinks, but I used what I had handy.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Darlene care to explain to me what is this? i don't understand a thing lol.. also is there a system covered by a towel in the back?


----------



## alancsalt

Hmmmm, two water chillers underneath... is this overkill?

No big reservoir?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whiteskymage*
> 
> I want to know which AIO coolers fit in Graphite 380T. Can I fit H105 or maybe H110 (if i put some more holes in it)?


Definitely not the H110, and H105 will depend on your motherboard and RAM chosen. See my review linked below in my sig.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Houston . . . . .
> 
> We have liftoff . . . . . .
> 
> All the modules are complete and working. . .
> 
> I need to put in the electronics controls, but both the loops run fine and my little controller for the cold loop pumps and chillers interfaces with the solid state relays module and powers the chillers on and off just as planned.
> 
> The module with the programmable message fans is the solid state relays. . . . I probably went major overkill on the heatsinks, but I used what I had handy.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene care to explain to me what is this? i don't understand a thing lol.. also is there a system covered by a towel in the back?
Click to expand...

In reverse order, the towel covers the WiP, Stretch Limo Edition build with the gullwing side panel:



For the "what it is", . . . .

It's my cooling experiment to see if it's possible to replace a lot of rad space with a chiller unit.

I live in a very tropical location with high ambient temps year 'round, and incredibly high electricity costs limit the use of AC severely.

To have a system that's equal to even a rather lame system with a 15C+ delta t in a cooler climate, I have to have < 5C Dt, which takes a massive amount of rad space like in the Stretch build.

The concept with this experiment is to see if I can have a rather plain Jane setup with a single 360 rad for everyday surfing and general use, and then have the chillers kick in when the Dt hits a certain point as it would when gaming or more intensive loading occurs.

Essentially, there's 2 loops that interact with each other via the dual plate type heat exchangers, lower front in the pics.

The cold loop circulates thru the chillers, the plate exchangers, and the pump/res setup on the rear.

The warm loop circulates thru the res/pumps above the plate exchangers module, then plate exchangers, GPUs, Mobo, CPU, 360 rad, res

This is the plate exchanger module . . . Cold loop is in white, warm loop is in silver/black. Flow meters and temp sensors for both loops in and out are in this module.



I'm using an Aquaero 6 for its ability to create virtual sensors like Dt, and some custom made electronics to control the cold loop pumps and chillers based on Dt so that the chillers only run when they need to, and with optimal settings, I should be able to keep the warm loop from being cooled below the dew point, thus avoiding the usual downside to chillers, condensation.

While chillers are usually associated with sub ambient cooling, that's not really the goal here. I'm just looking to be able to keep the loop coolant temp down between the dewpoint and about 5C Dt, so it makes sense that there should be some differences from other chiller setups.

The chillers hold about 3L each, so the cold loop volume is about 7L total.

While that's not like having a 50L ice chest for a res, it's enough that the chillers don't have to cycle too frequently, and the system can then be much more responsive to a need to cool from being off for a long time.

Darlene


----------



## Ramzinho

Thanks darlene for the explanation. it felt kinda complicated.







but heck if it gets the job done and you had fun building it







that's what matters. Amazing job.. keep up the amazing work


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Houston . . . . .
> 
> We have liftoff . . . . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> All the modules are complete and working. . .
> 
> I need to put in the electronics controls, but both the loops run fine and my little controller for the cold loop pumps and chillers interfaces with the solid state relays module and powers the chillers on and off just as planned.
> 
> The module with the programmable message fans is the solid state relays. . . . I probably went major overkill on the heatsinks, but I used what I had handy.
> 
> Darlene


My lord ... 2x HC-500A chillers ... what are your temperatures? Do you use dehumidifier in the room where you have those chillers? I really, really want a chiller for my system, just think it is a little pricy.


----------



## Puck

Looking good Darlene. Now to take it all apart again and insulate the cold side and mobo







.

...you know its gonna happen eventually anyway


----------



## alancsalt

Darlene, I like it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Houston . . . . .
> 
> We have liftoff . . . . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> All the modules are complete and working. . .
> 
> I need to put in the electronics controls, but both the loops run fine and my little controller for the cold loop pumps and chillers interfaces with the solid state relays module and powers the chillers on and off just as planned.
> 
> The module with the programmable message fans is the solid state relays. . . . I probably went major overkill on the heatsinks, but I used what I had handy.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My lord ... 2x HC-500A chillers ... what are your temperatures? Do you use dehumidifier in the room where you have those chillers? I really, really want a chiller for my system, just think it is a little pricy.
Click to expand...

It all started out innocently enough with just a single HC 500, since I couldn't source a 1000 that would ship here, . . . and then it went into overkill from there. . . . . .

I was awakened by the sound of crying one night, and after checking that it wasn't me subconsciously bemoaning my own existence, found it was the poor lonely HC-500 who I had torn from his mates at the PPCs warehouse.



I mean what could I do . . . . I Had to order him a mate . . . He's so much happier now, I'm not sure they're not a couple o' poofs.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Looking good Darlene. Now to take it all apart again and insulate the cold side and mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> ...*you know its gonna happen eventually anyway*


Not likely with this build . . . .

Although I did look into some white foam pipe insulation for the 2 white cold lines.

If it turns out that I can accomplish the initial concept with a lot less chiller, then I may get a smaller one for this build, and migrate these to a sub ambient tech bench build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Darlene, I like it.


Thank you sir.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Oh man I just had my first D5 experience and I can't believe how quiet it is, even at full speed, once primed. Having said that, it had a grand total of 0 GPM flow through my high restriction test loop (Mo.Ra 3 Pro + 4 Koolance QD3s+ 4 compression fittings, tubing and 2 T-fittings)









Pretty much set to go for D5 vs (2) mcp35x vs (2) mcp50x now in a high restriction and low/med restriction loop.


----------



## gdubc

Single d5 vs mora/qdc setup and duals? Bully.


----------



## VSG

Complain to the seller of the D5 who told me it was a D5 Strong









I am doing single D5 vs single mcp35x vs single mcp50x vs dual mcp35x vs dual mcp50x in both test loops btw. Oh and there was a bitspower D5 mod top on, so that didn't help the D5 any more.


----------



## gdubc

Just teasing, lol. Not at all complaining! Love the work you are putting out.


----------



## VSG

Anyone with more D5 experience- is the stock D5 top a better performer than the Bitspower mod top? The 1/2" x 3/4" barbs aren't a big deal since all my soft tubing is that size anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Just teasing, lol. Not at all complaining! Love the work you are putting out.


lol I know, and thanks


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anyone with more D5 experience- is the stock D5 top a better performer than the Bitspower mod top? The 1/2" x 3/4" barbs aren't a big deal since all my soft tubing is that size anyway.
> lol I know, and thanks


Generally the stock top performs better. I believe they are all very close, but in my experience it does perform better. I even went to order the stock top as I wanted to find out for sure, I think it seems to be better so far. Ran across a comparison a while back, the only other top that came close was an EK top if I recall.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anyone with more D5 experience- is the stock D5 top a better performer than the Bitspower mod top? The 1/2" x 3/4" barbs aren't a big deal since all my soft tubing is that size anyway.
> lol I know, and thanks


Go for Swiftech MCP655's, I have two of those running at "4" through 4x R9 290Xs, 2x EK-RAM blocks, Chipset and Mosfet + EK-Supremacy, running 5x QD3's and 2x MO-RA3 420's. Using 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 CSQ in serial (mounted in front of each MO-RA3 radiator). Running cool, quite and stable.







I would not use anything else!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anyone with more D5 experience- is the stock D5 top a better performer than the Bitspower mod top? The 1/2" x 3/4" barbs aren't a big deal since all my soft tubing is that size anyway.
> lol I know, and thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Generally the stock top performs better. I believe they are all very close, but in my experience it does perform better. I even went to order the stock top as I wanted to find out for sure, I think it seems to be better so far. Ran across a comparison a while back, the only other top that came close was an EK top if I recall.
Click to expand...

According to Stren's testing most aftermarket D5 tops outperform Laing's stock top, the exception being the Aquacomputer top.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/08/09/single-d5-pump-tops-roundup/6/

He didn't test the Bitspower top though I did read somewhere here that it also didn't outperform the stock top. And though it's not exactly a 'top', another underperformer is XSPC's Photon D5 combo reservoir.


----------



## hotrod717

Snagged one of, probably, last new supremacy full nickel clean blocks available.
Coming from an xspc raystorm, love the mounting system. I change out chips for benching frequently and really enjoy the simplicity of the mounting system. Temps are comparable and love the look.
Excuse the mess.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I did see Stren's work but that was with tops I don't have here. I should have mentioned that the stock top would be just for the testing. Where this D5 is going, the Bitspower mod top/mod kit is plenty enough!

Thanks for the help, I will get a stock top to make it a fairer comparison for the low restriction loop. Not touching the high restriction loop with this again lol, it started to make complaining noises before I switched it off (no damage done I believe thankfully).


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, I did see Stren's work but that was with tops I don't have here. I should have mentioned that the stock top would be just for the testing. Where this D5 is going, the Bitspower mod top/mod kit is plenty enough!
> 
> Thanks for the help, I will get a stock top to make it a fairer comparison for the low restriction loop. Not touching the high restriction loop with this again lol, it started to make complaining noises before I switched it off (no damage done I believe thankfully).


Here's the one I got: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18220/ex-pmp-229/Swiftech_MCP655_Series_Replacement_Housing_-_MCP655_MCP655-B_MCP655-PWM-Drive.html?tl=g30c107

Not sure if you already have a supplier. For some reason I had to dig to find it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh man I just had my first D5 experience and I can't believe how quiet it is, even at full speed, once primed. Having said that, it had a grand total of 0 GPM flow through my high restriction test loop (Mo.Ra 3 Pro + 4 Koolance QD3s+ 4 compression fittings, tubing and 2 T-fittings)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much set to go for D5 vs (2) mcp35x vs (2) mcp50x now in a high restriction and low/med restriction loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anyone with more D5 experience- is the stock D5 top a better performer than the Bitspower mod top? The 1/2" x 3/4" barbs aren't a big deal since all my soft tubing is that size anyway.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Just teasing, lol. Not at all complaining! Love the work you are putting out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol I know, and thanks
Click to expand...

Interesting result on the flow . . . Something is wrong there

I just had a similar experience with the D5's in the warm loop in my chiller build . . . .

What should have been great flow was dismal . . . . from a dual setup, PWM D5's on a BP delrin dual top, if either one was unplugged, there was no flow at al.

The same pumps on a plexi top worked great.

I also found a male to male rotary under the res would suck air, although it didn't leak coolant. . . . first time I've run across that . .

I did change some o rings and the rotary, now I get about 1.1 GPM with both, and 0.6 to 0.7 from either one if just one is connected.

I actually ended up pulling that whole module with the pumps out to work on it I was so peeved at how lame it was.

I'm kind of believing that perhaps the QC on the machining on the tops is suspect. . . . or the supplied o rings are too thick and create too much head space above the impeller.

I've always had great pressure and flow rates, even in restrictive systems with the BP dual acrylic tops, but this POM top has me on the fence about trying one of them again.

Now the dual D5 strongs on the dual EK top for the cold loop . . . . getting 1.7 GPM with either one powered up, and 2.5 to 2.6 GPM with both running (24V supply to them)

I had to go to a taller res tube as the turbulence was just too great, in the shorter one, even with just 1 pump running.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

I did have a male-male rotary connecting a large cylindrical res to the D5 but that didn't have any issues with the other pumps, you still think that could be a problem here? That experience you had makes me wonder about this top more and more now- I agree there should have been some flow even with the ~4 psi pressure drop in the loop at 1 GPM (based on other pumps). I have the delrin top as well here.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Well as far as stock pump goes.. i think you have better flow because input and output arent tapped for 1/4"


----------



## VSG

That by itself doesn't explain the no flow with the Bitspower top with the high restriction loop (even though flow was good in a low restriction loop), and the mcp35x with tapped threads perform better than the mcp355/stock DDC with the fixed barbs. But again I am a newbie to D5 pumps!


----------



## bond32

Updates: So boss at work gave me one of these pipe support roof curbs... http://www.keycurb.com/products/keycurb/curb.asp

Material is perfect for vibration damping. Works fantastic!


----------



## psycho84




----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Updates: So boss at work gave me one of these pipe support roof curbs... http://www.keycurb.com/products/keycurb/curb.asp
> 
> Material is perfect for vibration damping. Works fantastic!


lol well it is a freaking rubber brick xD


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I did have a male-male rotary connecting a large cylindrical res to the D5 but that didn't have any issues with the other pumps, you still think that could be a problem here? That experience you had makes me wonder about this top more and more now- I agree there should have been some flow even with the ~4 psi pressure drop in the loop at 1 GPM (based on other pumps). I have the delrin top as well here.


The male to male rotary, if it worked OK with other pumps, wasn't your issue . . . I could hear mine making noise with the pumps on.

I am skeptical of the tops though . . . maybe the acetal ones are a bit harder to manufacture and are more subject to poorly meeting dimensional specs or something . . .

Might just be a coincidence, but I have a shed load of acrylic tops with never that issue, but first POM top and it's a lamer.

If I recall correctly, the D5 is supposed to have something like 7 meters of head pressure max, that would be in the 15 psi range. . . . My bad, that would be for the dual setup . . single pump spec is about 4m . . so about 6 psi, so you still should have had some flow if the top had the correct clearances to the impeller.

I also had difficulty bleeding it when I first filled it, considerably more than I should have for such a straight forward setup. . . . That was the first clue.

Did you have issues bleeding, or couldn't you even bleed with no flow?

Darlene


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That by itself doesn't explain the no flow with the Bitspower top with the high restriction loop (even though flow was good in a low restriction loop), and the mcp35x with tapped threads perform better than the mcp355/stock DDC with the fixed barbs. But again I am a newbie to D5 pumps!


well as far as restriction goes.. a standard d5 (not strong) has no head pressure. so if it cant get the water to start moving(from what my understanding is headpressure), flow means jack

its basically why I went with industrial pumps head pressure and flow rates

maybe its just a few things adding together. I haven't gotten my bitspower top up yet aside from a minor test. not since the polish for sure(i was gonna do that yesterday but I got sidetracked


----------



## VSG

I was unable to bleed anything, a large air bubble was trying it's best to pass a QDC but never happened.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Interesting result on the flow . . . Something is wrong there
> 
> I just had a similar experience with the D5's in the warm loop in my chiller build . . . .
> 
> What should have been great flow was dismal . . . . from a dual setup, PWM D5's on a BP delrin dual top, if either one was unplugged, there was no flow at al.
> 
> The same pumps on a plexi top worked great.
> 
> *I found a male to male rotary under the res would suck air, although it didn't leak coolant. . . . first time I've run across that . .*
> 
> I did change some o rings and the rotary, now I get about 1.1 GPM with both, and 0.6 to 0.7 from either one if just one is connected.
> 
> I actually ended up pulling that whole module with the pumps out to work on it I was so peeved at how lame it was.
> 
> I'm kind of believing that perhaps the QC on the machining on the tops is suspect. . . . or the supplied o rings are too thick and create too much head space above the impeller.
> 
> I've always had great pressure and flow rates, even in restrictive systems with the BP dual acrylic tops, but this POM top has me on the fence about trying one of them again.
> 
> Now the dual D5 strongs on the dual EK top for the cold loop . . . . getting 1.7 GPM with either one powered up, and 2.5 to 2.6 GPM with both running (24V supply to them)
> 
> I had to go to a taller res tube as the turbulence was just too great, in the shorter one, even with just 1 pump running.
> 
> Darlene


Funny you should mention this. I just replaced my mobo and re plumbed with a diff color tubing, but I added one bitspower g1/4 90* dual rotary compression extender onto one of my rad ports and now the loop is incredibly tough to fill (flow slows down to a drip right past the extender, the whole loop is filled except about 3 inches of open air with water spurting through it)... Right before this I bled and filled the loop I replaced to flush out uv dye...


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you screw the cable loop in to the spare hole on the end of the GPU? Never thought about that...


----------



## snef

now , night shots


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now , night shots


If I give you 50 bucks (US or Canadian, up to you), can I tell people that we're friends? This build has the perfect amount of color to it! Amazing work!


----------



## lowfat

Looks bauce. Nice acrylic.


----------



## VSG

Not using the integrated motherboard block?


----------



## lowfat

More blocks doesn't make a more impressive loop. I wouldn't use it if I were him either. Using it would break the two clean tubing runs he can get from the CPU and GPU blocks at the moment. It isn't like VRMs actually even get warm on Z87 / Z97. With my 4770K @ 4.5GHz, 1.4V my VRMs don't even break 40C w/ zero airflow.


----------



## timerwin63

Why use the bottom fans as exhaust? Won't that mean some serious negative pressure?


----------



## CrazyElf

@Snef

Nice work. I really like the yellow-black theme you have going on with that MSI based build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not using the integrated motherboard block?


A good reason not is that the motherboard vendors tend to use aluminum in their Mosfet blocks. That could be a galvanic corrosion issue.

I think that Asus for example only just began used copper with its Z97 Maximus series. No word on the other manufacturers. If I'm not mistaken, that's the Z77 board so I would not recommend risking it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> More blocks doesn't make a more impressive loop. I wouldn't use it if I were him either. Using it would break the two clean tubing runs he can get from the CPU and GPU blocks at the moment. It isn't like VRMs actually even get warm on Z87 / Z97. With my 4770K @ 4.5GHz, 1.4V my VRMs don't even break 40C w/ zero airflow.


This is totally off topic in a way, but is it worth water cooling the Mosfets for X99 based systems? The power requirements are essentially doubled, although the power delivery has not been (and in the top end boards, ironically downgraded, most likely due to PCB space requirements for dual channel RAM). I'd imagine for moderate overclocks that they'd get hotter?

Otherwise, it seems only 2 things are really worth cooling. CPU and GPUs. Everything else is mostly for looks.


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> now , night shots


Beautiful! Love it!


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> This is totally off topic in a way, but is it worth water cooling the Mosfets for X99 based systems? The power requirements are essentially doubled, although the power delivery has not been (and in the top end boards, ironically downgraded, most likely due to PCB space requirements for dual channel RAM). I'd imagine for moderate overclocks that they'd get hotter?


Most of X99 boards seem to use IR3550 (or equivalents). As long as they have 6+ phases of these with decent inductors, they shouldn't get too hot or even warm.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Did you screw the cable loop in to the spare hole on the end of the GPU? Never thought about that...


Yes


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Yes


Could I still do this with a full-length block (goes all the way to the end) using a longer-than-stock screw? Also, how did you manage to secure it without shorting something?


----------



## psycho84

I think yes. You have to use a longer Screw. What you mean with secure it ? The Cables ?


----------



## timerwin63

Sorry, should have been more specific. I mean, how did you get the loop attached to the graphics card without having it touch and possibly short components on the back of the card? Is that portion of the card just empty enough that you can attach it directly, or did you have to use a nut or something to give it more clearance?


----------



## psycho84

I used M3x10mm Srews. You have to Secure it with a Nut because the Hole is slightly bigger than 3mm. The Card have enough Space in the Backsite so you can directly fit it.
But if you use a fullcover block you need only a longer screw.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> I used M3x10mm Srews. You have to Secure it with a Nut because the Hole is slightly bigger than 3mm. The Card have enough Space in the Backsite so you can directly fit it.
> But if you use a fullcover block you need only a longer screw.


Thanks! +1 for the idea and info.


----------



## aerotracks

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_7721copy08yen.jpg


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Looks good Snef,nice and simple....the best kind of build.

Not sold on the fans but whatever. No modding tho?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerotracks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_7721copy08yen.jpg


That looks nice


----------



## nismoskyline

Hi, I'm here to interrupt all your beautiful pictures of amazing computers with my ugly watercooling ghettoness.

Behold! The beginnings of the testing of my TEC project.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks good Snef,nice and simple....the best kind of build.
> 
> Not sold on the fans but whatever. No modding tho?


Thanks

no modding on this one, this build is for sale, keep it clean and simple


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Hi, I'm here to interrupt all your beautiful pictures of amazing computers with my ugly watercooling ghettoness.
> 
> Behold! The beginnings of the testing of my TEC project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, keep it up! We need more people experimenting with TECs. With all the newer much more powerful peltiers available plus the relatively low cost computer systems like Adrenos and rasberry pis that can control them it is a lot more feasible of a technology then it was 5-10 years ago. Back then TECs were too weak for the rapidly increasing processors, and were used either on or off - no real inexpensive smart controllers to adjust duty cycle.


----------



## aerotracks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Look at the graphic card, we can see it screaming, why not me? while the cpu has all that rad space!


Back in business









http://abload.de/image.php?img=290qbjbf.jpg


----------



## psycho84




----------



## lowfat

Did you take off that huge nasty E or just paint it?


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Huge nasty E lol that made me chuckle a bit lowfat.


----------



## psycho84

Its painted


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Its painted


Paint it in green


----------



## psycho84

First i want to paint it Green but i want a Black Board so i have the Option to change to another Color ^^


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks for the help, I will get a stock top to make it a fairer comparison for the low restriction loop.


I still have the stock top of my old D5 if you want it. Don't need to buy one, just pay for shipping.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I still have the stock top of my old D5 if you want it. Don't need to buy one, just pay for shipping.


Thanks a lot for the offer, I believe I have found one locally from a guy who is ok with me borrowing it but I will be sure to keep you in mind if that doesn't work out. +1 for the thought


----------



## Ironsmack

No worries







.


----------



## reedy777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Hi, I'm here to interrupt all your beautiful pictures of amazing computers with my ugly watercooling ghettoness.
> 
> Behold! The beginnings of the testing of my TEC project.


Ooh he's a big boy isn't he


----------



## reedy777

This ought to put a smile on the faces of the guys who went amd with 290x xf

http://www.techpowerup.com/mobile/reviews/NVIDIA/GeForce_GTX_980_SLI/1.html

Last gen performance with slightly better power consumption wayyyy. Ok well arguably about 7% better but lol it feels good to not paned by a gpu refresh.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reedy777*
> 
> Ooh he's a big boy isn't he


uhh... ok?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Nice, keep it up! We need more people experimenting with TECs. With all the newer much more powerful peltiers available plus the relatively low cost computer systems like Adrenos and rasberry pis that can control them it is a lot more feasible of a technology then it was 5-10 years ago. Back then TECs were too weak for the rapidly increasing processors, and were used either on or off - no real inexpensive smart controllers to adjust duty cycle.


thanks!


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reedy777*
> 
> Ooh he's a big boy isn't he


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> uhh... ok?
> thanks!


I think he meant your case? At first glance I didn't realize it was all sitting on a glass table. It almost looks like a huge case with everything spread out on its HUGE side panel.


----------



## Nichismo

I know the cabling job here is still an eyesore... but ill be fixing it soon. I just purchased a bunch of 6 and 8 pin cable combs and clips. Im just going to be getting a couple new GPUs to swap in soon so im waiting to do that before I finally go all out and get a professional-like cable management setup.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> I think he meant your case? At first glance I didn't realize it was all sitting on a glass table. It almost looks like a huge case with everything spread out on its HUGE side panel.


haha you're right it does look like one massive sidepanel, I'm a master of optical illusions and I never knew it


----------



## Nomadskid

So I'm leak testing right now but my case is shocking me. My PSU is shorted to be on and powering the pump with a paperclip is this normal?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> So I'm leak testing right now but my case is shocking me. My PSU is shorted to be on and powering the pump with a paperclip is this normal?


All I had hooked up when I tested was the pump in the perif slot and the 24pin (paperclip or clip on modifier). Its a trip when you switch the power on but you don't want any other components to have power while you test.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> So I'm leak testing right now but my case is shocking me. My PSU is shorted to be on and powering the pump with a paperclip is this normal?


Use only the molex from PSU to pump. No other cables should be connected to the MB or peripherals. And no, that is not normal...Are you sure the MB is screw it to the correct stand-off on the case? If by any chance you missed one that can short circuity your board.


----------



## Nomadskid

I have them all in properly and the pump is the only thing plugged in I think it's my house circuitry.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> I have them all in properly and the pump is the only thing plugged in I think it's my house circuitry.


but if nothing is connected to the case why would the case give you any shock? You might try a isolator module ( a sort of eletronic ground - http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%B3dulo_isolador).

http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=MIE500BI&xtmc=isolator%2520module&xtcr=42

or alternatively check your house circuitry which I think would be wise.


----------



## VSG

Update time: Stock D5 top >>>> Bitspower Delrin D5 mod top

With the stock top on a D5 Vario, the average flow rate was 0.9 GPM at full speed in the high restriction loop test compared to 1.2 GPM for the mcp35x (for example, got all sorts of pumps/combinations done). Got a ton of excel sheets ready, now time for the low/med restriction loop where the D5 is much more at home.

@IT Diva, the Delrin top definitely is underperforming a lot more than what I have seen from the plexi top. Got a strong feeling the inlet "holes" in the pump are being slightly blocked based on the top machining. Of course I can't be sure because it isn't see through!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Update time: Stock D5 top >>>> Bitspower Delrin D5 mod top
> 
> With the stock top on a D5 Vario, the average flow rate was 0.9 GPM at full speed in the high restriction loop test compared to 1.2 GPM for the mcp35x (for example, got all sorts of pumps/combinations done). Got a ton of excel sheets ready, now time for the low/med restriction loop where the D5 is much more at home.
> 
> @IT Diva, the Delrin top definitely is underperforming a lot more than what I have seen from the plexi top. Got a strong feeling the inlet "holes" in the pump are being slightly blocked based on the top machining. Of course I can't be sure because it isn't see through!


how is the mcp50X in the loop?


----------



## VSG

Oh you! Let's keep something for the review


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh you! Let's keep something for the review


Looking forward to it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Looking forward to it.


I am calling it a DDC Strong in some places btw, I figure that's a fair nickname given how the numbers are.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am calling it a DDC Strong in some places btw, I figure that's a fair nickname given how the numbers are.


I can't wait for the full review mate ... awesome job


----------



## stickg1

DDC strong sounds good, as long as it's not anymore loud. Less noise would really be something.

I might have to swap my EK D5 tube res combo for a single 5.25" bay DDC res combo, I'm really trying to avoid it but this case I'm working in now is pretty limited (Corsair 350D).


----------



## lowfat

Might actually get around to doing some bending on my next weekend.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Might actually get around to doing some bending on my next weekend.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful... The colors are fantastic, and the arch on the 24-pin is amazing. Also, did you spray the sinks on that with black Plasti-Dip or is it some other finish?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Beautiful... The colors are fantastic, and the arch on the 24-pin is amazing. Also, did you spray the sinks on that with black Plasti-Dip or is it some other finish?


Thanks.









And yes it is Plasti-Dip. I did mask off the fins though when I painted them. I've had the board on a bench where it spend the entire time [email protected] non-stop w/ no real airflow. The heatsinks didn't even really get warm since the CPUs can't be overclocked past 4%.


----------



## jon666

Leak tested this weekend. Drained half then refilled it when I got home. You guys think one hour is safe to stop testing and fully power up?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Leak tested this weekend. Drained half then refilled it when I got home. You guys think one hour is safe to stop testing and fully power up?


If you don't think there's any major air bubbles and no signs of leaking I say go for it. Hell I usually just put my D5 on full speed for a few minutes and wiggle the case around then power up.

It's recommended to run the loop for a long time just to work out any dangerous airbubbles, like in CPU, GPU blocks, or pumps. Also so you can see for sure that nothing is leaking because there are no puddles.

It's kind of like the "don't swim for 30 minutes after eating or you could get a cramp" type deal. Better safe than sorry. But I take my ham sammy in the pool with me.


----------



## jon666

That's what I wanted to hear lol. Slightly worried about pump which is a swiftech something mcp35x I believe. Running through two 360 rads, newest swiftech cpu block and two universal gpu blocks. Used about ten or so feet of tubing from home creepo rated for drinking water. Time to power up and get back to watching bsods.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes it is Plasti-Dip. I did mask off the fins though when I painted them. I've had the board on a bench where it spend the entire time [email protected] non-stop w/ no real airflow. The heatsinks didn't even really get warm since the CPUs can't be overclocked past 4%.


Would you advise against doing a similar job on a heatsink in a case? Specifically one on a Z97 VRM in a case like this. (Pardon the quick-and-dirty phone pic):


I think I'd be a bit worried, as it's somewhat constricted, but it doesn't get very hot right now.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Would you advise against doing a similar job on a heatsink in a case? Specifically one on a Z97 VRM in a case like this. (Pardon the quick-and-dirty phone pic):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'd be a bit worried, as it's somewhat constricted, but it doesn't get very hot right now.


Pretty sure a regular member in here @WiSK plasti-dipped an entire board with no issues. As long as you don't over do it I think you'd be fine.


----------



## VSG

Here's a thread by Snef: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/777-plasti-dip-your-motherboard/

I don't personally like plastidipping the entire board, but that example in there is pretty striking.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Would you advise against doing a similar job on a heatsink in a case? Specifically one on a Z97 VRM in a case like this. (Pardon the quick-and-dirty phone pic):
> 
> I think I'd be a bit worried, as it's somewhat constricted, but it doesn't get very hot right now.


Try it out. If it gets unstable just peel it off.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Here's a thread by Snef: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/777-plasti-dip-your-motherboard/
> 
> I don't personally like plastidipping the entire board, but that example in there is pretty striking.


He never updated with temps though. And he specifically mentions not to cover the heatsink. Although he never mentioned testing a covered heatsink either so IDK.

@snef, do you have any further input on this?


----------



## jon666

Running full power. Already stoked about idle temps. Only ran superpi so far. Probably going to run gpu benchmarks to measure temps next. Will post pics of PC later, too busy playing around. You guys this excited when you put your first wc loop together?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> DDC strong sounds good, as long as it's not anymore loud. Less noise would really be something.
> 
> I might have to swap my EK D5 tube res combo for a single 5.25" bay DDC res combo, I'm really trying to avoid it but this case I'm working in now is pretty limited (Corsair 350D).


What happened to the S3?


----------



## iBored

Damn that's sexy.

How did you route your gpu cable?
And
I spy 3 cpu block mounts not painted yet!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Damn that's sexy.
> 
> How did you route your gpu cable?
> And
> I spy 3 cpu block mounts not painted yet!


Thanks. And yes I need to plasti-dip some of thse CPU mounting nuts. That as well as the backside of the IO ports.

The GPU cable isn't quite done, still need to shorten a few of the wires but it you can see the routing on the backside.


----------



## DarthBaggins

so I wonder if you can plasti-dip a mobo, how would an acrylic based spray paint work on it


----------



## lowfat

You can paint a motherboard with any non conductive paint. It just isn't removable.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> so I wonder if you can plasti-dip a mobo, how would an acrylic based spray paint work on it


Plastidip is non-conductive. Not sure you can say the same for your acrylic. If it's not then the results could be disastrous.

Also, after spraying a few coats of Plastidip (each successive coat re-liquifies the layers under it to form a single thicker coat) and drying it is pretty easily peeled off. That way if it doesn't look or perform how you wanted you can just remove it. Also, if you later decide there was a part of the board that you didn't want/need painted and are careful and cut around it you can peel the Plastidip off of just that part. You definitely aren't going to be able to do anything like that with an acrylic paint.


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I know the cabling job here is still an eyesore... but ill be fixing it soon. I just purchased a bunch of 6 and 8 pin cable combs and clips. Im just going to be getting a couple new GPUs to swap in soon so im waiting to do that before I finally go all out and get a professional-like cable management setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like the elegance in straight tubing and 90 deg. fittings. I also like the dual loop being the red and white. Nothing super original but it doesnt need to be when it is well executed. And when you get all the cabling done it will be fantastic.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Plastidip is non-conductive. Not sure you can say the same for your acrylic. If it's not then the results could be disastrous.
> 
> Also, after spraying a few coats of Plastidip (each successive coat re-liquifies the layers under it to form a single thicker coat) and drying it is pretty easily peeled off. That way if it doesn't look or perform how you wanted you can just remove it. Also, if you later decide there was a part of the board that you didn't want/need painted and are careful and cut around it you can peel the Plastidip off of just that part. You definitely aren't going to be able to do anything like that with an acrylic paint.


I'm doing this in my next mod, ordered Plasti-DIP yesterday


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I was prepping my x99 asrock for elastidip/plastidip then I sat for a second and realized I wasnt gonna use LN2 on it till x109 s It would be pretty pointless...


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I really like the elegance in straight tubing and 90 deg. fittings. I also like the dual loop being the red and white. Nothing super original but it doesnt need to be when it is well executed. And when you get all the cabling done it will be fantastic.


One small thing I liked about his tubing runs are the rotary fittings used on top of the CPU block- they form sort of a spiral yin yang path.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I was prepping my x99 asrock for elastidip/plastidip then I sat for a second and realized I wasnt gonna use LN2 on it till x109 s It would be pretty pointless...


How is that Asrock board? I keep reading on how the mATX X99 boards offered so far are all mediocre but I really like the idea for a nice 8-core mini workstation and would rather not wait for Asus to launch their Rampage Gene successor.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Yeah,im looking at plastidip for the slots on LUMO....

They stick out like a sore thumb!


----------



## VSG

Are you going to insert an old/disposable RAM/GPU in the lanes? I imagine masking the insides is near impossible and getting anything in is not very good.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,im looking at plastidip for the slots on LUMO....
> 
> They stick out like a sore thumb!


I think once you get ram in them it won't be that bad, they are hardly noticeable on my z77 board.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> I think once you get ram in them it won't be that bad, they are hardly noticeable on my z77 board.


I agree with this. I barely notice the RAM slots on my Z87. I am only using two sticks of RAM, but have the black fake RAM sticks installed as well. As for the PCI slots, just leave the dust covers on the unused slots

The SATA ports, 24-pin, and SB heatsink are the only things I could see plastidipping


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Plastidip is non-conductive. Not sure you can say the same for your acrylic. If it's not then the results could be disastrous.
> 
> Also, after spraying a few coats of Plastidip (each successive coat re-liquifies the layers under it to form a single thicker coat) and drying it is pretty easily peeled off. That way if it doesn't look or perform how you wanted you can just remove it. Also, if you later decide there was a part of the board that you didn't want/need painted and are careful and cut around it you can peel the Plastidip off of just that part. You definitely aren't going to be able to do anything like that with an acrylic paint.


true, and most of the time the Montana Gold Acrylic paint I use pretty much can peel off since once dried it's a plastic/acrylic, just not sure of the conductivity. Guess I can see if there is a PD that matches the colors I'm using in the Mischief build.


----------



## lowfat

Easy to test conductivity. Spray paint a piece of paper. Use a multimeter to test resistance. It shouldn't be able to complete a cuircut.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> One small thing I liked about his tubing runs are the rotary fittings used on top of the CPU block- they form sort of a spiral yin yang path.
> How is that Asrock board? I keep reading on how the mATX X99 boards offered so far are all mediocre but I really like the idea for a nice 8-core mini workstation and would rather not wait for Asus to launch their Rampage Gene successor.


its nice to look at. lol great price...
no chip yet.
only real issue with it I know of is that ek won't make a block for it.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I really like the elegance in straight tubing and 90 deg. fittings. I also like the dual loop being the red and white. Nothing super original but it doesnt need to be when it is well executed. And when you get all the cabling done it will be fantastic.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> One small thing I liked about his tubing runs are the rotary fittings used on top of the CPU block- they form sort of a spiral yin yang path.


Thanks so much guys







before this build, I had never used a 100% solid color coolant before. The first ever coolant with color I used was Koolance's brand, and I didnt like it. The texture and vibrance/contrast was wildly inconsistent, it changed heavily in regards to flow rate and restriction. Then I moved onto EK's Ekoolant, Blood red in particular. I liked it at first, especially the subtle transparency, but over time, the liquid in the tube reservoirs started to darken alot, and looked almost black, it didnt mesh with anything in my build at all.

So I finally went with Mayhems pre-mix pastels and I absolutely love them. I know red is very overused nowadays and white is probably right behind it, I have seen a ton of clean plexi Supremacys with white pastel running through them. But I had to go with a couple colors that would be neutral somewhat so I wouldnt regret it, and also, I sorta lucked out with the motherboard and memory colors.

As for the cabling, im still slightly torn. I still have the Corsair Professional series bundle of modular cables in white. I was contemplating using Red extensions for the 8pin CPU and 24 pin mobo cables, and then white for the VGA cables, as they would contrast the coolant in the loops. Or I could vice versa and have the cables match. Ive always really liked the EVGA sleeved cables, specifically the all red VGA cables with red connectors. I thought those look pretty cool.

Thoughts?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> How is that Asrock board? I keep reading on how the mATX X99 boards offered so far are all mediocre but I really like the idea for a nice 8-core mini workstation and would rather not wait for Asus to launch their Rampage Gene successor.


Agreed. It suprises me that on Newegg the X79 Rampage Gene is still being sold brand new for 280$, as if it doesnt want to face reality xD


----------



## Gabrielzm

Got this package today. Ready to start the x99 build (MB, ram and cpu arrive tomorrow). What is in it???



spoiler to keep the surprise



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














I guess is time to start a build log. Tons of testing and data so far to present.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Got this package today. Ready to start the x99 build (MB, ram and cpu arrive tomorrow). What is in it???
> 
> 
> 
> spoiler to keep the surprise
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess is time to start a build log. Tons of testing and data so far to present.


Wow! Congrats man. I hope to get one similar to that someday. I think I'd prefer to have mine in black though. That size is perfect for what I have in mind for my next build.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Wow! Congrats man. I hope to get one similar to that someday. I think I'd prefer to have mine in black though. That size is perfect for what I have in mind for my next build.


Thks Bryan. The black and white would go nice with the color scheme I am planning, like this:



love the space and even better that the default top still fits Schyte ultra slim 12 mm x 120 mm fans. That means I can go push/pull with the normal top on it. The case is awesome Bryan and black should be neat too.

edit- BTW thanks a lot @Kevin_CL for everything. As you can see I just got the case down here in perfect condition. Packing is flawless and so does the finishing on the case. Thanks for all your help


----------



## VSG

^ Looks like a fun time ahead!


----------



## jon666

http://imgur.com/i0MIUEb,60xb9Nn,HvKANwQ,Wdj5PH0,dk09HHK,pb7Fh7D,TNctCD4,j52dhVu,LAQcDk3,gsGNFtN,EHnnj9s
Here is my watercooled build.


----------



## Ramzinho

i'm on my way to this club... wish me luick in my build guys


----------



## jon666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i'm on my way to this club... wish me luick in my build guys


Good Luick

I can completely justify the cost to myself now after seeing the temputures. GPU's had the biggest improvement. Not that it matters once I begin to overclock again..


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Might actually get around to doing some bending on my next weekend.


I've been lurking in your build log and finally gotta say that I really like the progress so far. Gonna keep a close eye on this one. I have the same board and would need to buy a lot more things to even begin making a PC with it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I've been lurking in your build log and finally gotta say that I really like the progress so far. Gonna keep a close eye on this one. I have the same board and would need to buy a lot more things to even begin making a PC with it.


Thanks.









What do you plan on doing w/ a 2P system? You have CPUs already?


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> As for the cabling, im still slightly torn. I still have the Corsair Professional series bundle of modular cables in white. I was contemplating using Red extensions for the 8pin CPU and 24 pin mobo cables, and then white for the VGA cables, as they would contrast the coolant in the loops. Or I could vice versa and have the cables match. Ive always really liked the EVGA sleeved cables, specifically the all red VGA cables with red connectors. I thought those look pretty cool.
> 
> Thoughts?


I have the EVGA Supernova 1500W and a Corsair 860 and I have to say the Corsair sleeving is better IMO. I think the EVGA wires are way to skinny and the red color is off just a little from everything else red I have.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anybody here know how acrylic tubing is to paint? I would like to paint some acrylic tubing which I will be using for my upcoming rebuild, but I do not like clear tubing, it will either be painted acrylic tubing or chrome plated copper tubing (might do both to compare).


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anybody here know how acrylic tubing is to paint? I would like to paint some acrylic tubing which I will be using for my upcoming rebuild, but I do not like clear tubing, it will either be painted acrylic tubing or chrome plated copper tubing (might do both to compare).


I'd assume it's about as difficult as acrylic, maybe a bit more due to having to deal with weird angles. You'd definitely want to do it after bends and whatnot.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I'd assume it's about as difficult as acrylic, maybe a bit more due to having to deal with weird angles. You'd definitely want to do it after bends and whatnot.


I will not bend the acrylic tubing, will buy those Bitspower Multi-Link 90 degree angles ... I guess I will see after they are cut and fitted.

By the way, acrylic is easy to paint: Underneath, PSU-cover and front cover and some more is all painted acrylic.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I will not bend the acrylic tubing, will buy those Bitspower Multi-Link 90 degree angles ... I guess I will see after they are cut and fitted.
> 
> By the way, acrylic is easy to paint: Underneath, PSU-cover and front cover and some more is all painted acrylic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Didn't say it was hard. It's just harder than, say, steel. If you're not bending it, I'd say, in theory, it probably wouldn't be too difficult.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Didn't say it was hard. It's just harder than, say, steel. If you're not bending it, I'd say, in theory, it probably wouldn't be too difficult.


Maybe, maybe not. I could just buy copper tubing and paint that though ... hmm ... I guess I have a project on my hands now.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Maybe, maybe not. I could just buy copper tubing and paint that though ... hmm ... I guess I have a project on my hands now.


Guess it's time for an experiment.


----------



## Doc3379

Gobigorgohome, no disrespect dude, but I think it's time for a bigger case.


----------



## stickg1

Doesn't someone make a cool tube sleeve? That could be an option as well. Depending on the paint, I can see it chipped or scratching easily. Although if you can find some Krylon Fusion spray paint in the color you want, that stuff will stick to about anything.

EDIT: Just thought about this, if you roughed up the tube a little with sand paper it might stick better as well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ewww krylon


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Doesn't someone make a cool tube sleeve? That could be an option as well. Depending on the paint, I can see it chipped or scratching easily. Although if you can find some Krylon Fusion spray paint in the color you want, that stuff will stick to about anything.
> 
> EDIT: Just thought about this, if you roughed up the tube a little with sand paper it might stick better as well.


I use a lot of raddle cans, I would not use sand paper I would use steel wool for acrylic and wash it with rubbing alcohol after, for paint prep.


----------



## DarthBaggins

ISO alcohol is what I use to ensure a clean paintable surface when painting on plastics


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anybody here know how acrylic tubing is to paint? I would like to paint some acrylic tubing which I will be using for my upcoming rebuild, but I do not like clear tubing, it will either be painted acrylic tubing or chrome plated copper tubing (might do both to compare).


Use a plastic primer and spray as usual,its no different than any other material to paint.
Avoid alcohol and acrylic parts,they do not play well together.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hmmm I haven't had issues she using alcohol on plastics, but I mainly have sprayed on auto plastics and did on the mischief build, but I never spray it directly on the plastics either and I'm not using cheap Krylon (or other low-end branded) spray paints.


----------



## lowfat

Any reason why you just don't dye the tubing?


----------



## morencyam

Depends on the type of plastic you are using the alcohol on. Acrylic doesn't like alcohol, but I use it on ABS plastic all the time at work with no ill side effects. When I painted acrylic sheets for a scratch build I was working on(which was later scrapped), I used TSP(trisodium phosphate) to clean the sheets when prepping for paint.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Doesn't someone make a cool tube sleeve? That could be an option as well. Depending on the paint, I can see it chipped or scratching easily. Although if you can find some Krylon Fusion spray paint in the color you want, that stuff will stick to about anything.
> 
> EDIT: Just thought about this, if you roughed up the tube a little with sand paper it might stick better as well.


This is MDPC sata sleeve. Only works for 10mm tupe/pipe. Any bigger would cause the sleeve to expand and the coolant would show through. That could actually look good. Black sleeve with green/blue or whatever coolant.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> This is MDPC sata sleeve. Only works for 10mm tupe/pipe. Any bigger would cause the sleeve to expand and the coolant would show through. That could actually look good. Black sleeve with green/blue or whatever coolant.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


MDPC makes a 1/2" sleeve for tubing as well. I actually have some that came with a sleeve bundle I bought from another user here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion* <a>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> </a>
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> This is MDPC sata sleeve. Only works for 10mm tupe/pipe. Any bigger would cause the sleeve to expand and the coolant would show through. That could actually look good. Black sleeve with green/blue or whatever coolant.


I like how you did the led in there. 3mm. I have some sitting on my desk (while waiting for the other parts). wondering how I would wrap them around the block.







looks good


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I can't add a spoiler to save my life btw. I even tried in that quote.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I can't add a spoiler to save my life btw. I even tried in that quote.


Treat it like any other HTML tag - an opening SPOILER in brackets, and a closing /SPOILER at the end in brackets







.

You can also highlight what you want to hide, then just click the black quote box and it will do it for ya







.


----------



## Ramzinho

i am currently working on my rig.. my 290x has the worst tim . thermal pads i've ever seen in my life.

the pc has been off since yesterday and the tim is liquidy and the thermal pads are gum like.. i'm having hard time working on cleaning it. anybody know if the tim on he 290x is conductive or not?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Treat it like any other HTML tag - an opening SPOILER in brackets, and a closing /SPOILER at the end in brackets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You can also highlight what you want to hide, then just click the black quote box and it will do it for ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

HEY!!! Go ahead!!! I can dig it


----------



## VSG

Phew, this took some time but it's done (for now): www.overclock.net/t/1516369/my-review-of-the-swiftech-mcp50x-pump/0_50


----------



## nismoskyline

While we are talking about painting, does anyone know the best method to paint heatkiller blocks?

I want to paint my 680s black to fit my color scheme instead of the silver

thanks


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> Gobigorgohome, no disrespect dude, but I think it's time for a bigger case.


Yes, I am looking at new cases atm. That is the "old" Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 (thrown away already), it was a Z87 m-ATX build which got teared apart before I started on the X79 system. I have a Corsair Carbide Air 540 now, but I will buy something bigger soon, I am also sick of "cheap" cases so I think I will buy some premium this time around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Use a plastic primer and spray as usual,its no different than any other material to paint.
> Avoid alcohol and acrylic parts,they do not play well together.


Yes, that is what I used at my "old" rig (the Fractal Design Arc Mini R2). First 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit sandpaper, then plastic primer and then "normal" box-paint. I have never used alcohol on plastic I think, the end-result got pretty good too.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well I got the cougar pwm fans.. guess I am returning them as they are overrated and have bad static pressure no good for radiators... this is getting ridiculous.. why can't anyone mke a descent fan


----------



## VSG

Those Cougars are best suited for low fpi radiators if they are anything like the ones I have. If you paired them up with your Nemesis rads then it wasn't the best choice honestly. If you have to have PWM, then consider the eloop B12-P fans or something along those lines.


----------



## phillyd

You guys have some incredible builds! I'll post mine again once I redo my loop.

Just a reminder, I am here if you need help with anything PPC's! Feel free to tag me, message me or email me.

I need to stick around the thread more. This thread is awesome.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> well I got the cougar pwm fans.. guess I am returning them as they are overrated and have bad static pressure no good for radiators... this is getting ridiculous.. why can't anyone mke a descent fan


If they are 120mm fans you could get yourself some Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm AP-15s from CoolerGuys while they still have them. Seems to be one of the last places with them at a pretty fair price considering. They're not PWM of course, but you wouldn't be complaining about 'why can't anyone mke a descent fan' any more.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You guys have some incredible builds! I'll post mine again once I redo my loop.
> 
> Just a reminder, I am here if you need help with anything PPC's! Feel free to tag me, message me or email me.
> 
> I need to stick around the thread more. This thread is awesome.












So...do I paint the block to match the board.......


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If they are 120mm fans you could get yourself some Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm AP-15s from CoolerGuys while they still have them. Seems to be one of the last places with them at a pretty fair price considering. They're not PWM of course, but you wouldn't be complaining about 'why can't anyone mke a descent fan' any more.


unfortunately out of my price range...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/yate-loon-120mm-high-speed-silent-case-fan-d12sh-12-sleeved.html#Questions-Answers is probably next try


----------



## VSG

Yates aren't going to be much better for performance (if at all)- save your money.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> unfortunately out of my price range...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/yate-loon-120mm-high-speed-silent-case-fan-d12sh-12-sleeved.html#Questions-Answers is probably next try


Any luck with Enermax T.B. Silence PWM? Runs decently and have a fair price (just the double of the Yate Loon on your link)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> unfortunately out of my price range...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/yate-loon-120mm-high-speed-silent-case-fan-d12sh-12-sleeved.html#Questions-Answers is probably next try


you might consider this too:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=PH-F120XP&N=-1&isNodeId=1

I use the 140 mm sibling and is a pretty decent fan.

What color @B NEGATIVE? Black or green? I would personally keep the block with the original color (metal exposed) but I guess is my MIPS love talking here. What is the rest of the color scheme (liquid, fittings so on)?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So...do I paint the block to match the board.......


I'd say yes, but only the black bits where the fittings go. Leave that beautiful metal finish


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Any luck with Enermax T.B. Silence PWM? Runs decently and have a fair price (just the double of the Yate Loon on your link)


i was gonna get the enermax but i havent dealt with them before and i think they had colors. I am just going for all black fans


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i was gonna get the enermax but i havent dealt with them before and i think they had colors. I am just going for all black fans


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17312/fan-1117/BitFenix_Spectre_All_Black_120mm_PWM_Fan_BFF-SCF-P12025KK-RP.html?tl=g36c365s936&id=SVEfLJ7a&mv_pc=4789#blank

especially if you are going push pull so you can turn down rpm. Decent deal. Not the silent god like AP 15 or the performance god either but I think would do the job.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Any luck with Enermax T.B. Silence PWM? Runs decently and have a fair price (just the double of the Yate Loon on your link)
> 
> 
> 
> i was gonna get the enermax but i havent dealt with them before and i think they had colors. I am just going for all black fans
Click to expand...

These are black with smoked acrylic blades
http://www.performance-pcs.com/enermax-t-b-silence-120x25mm-case-fan-w-batwing-blades-halo-frame-w-punched-air-intake.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You guys have some incredible builds! I'll post mine again once I redo my loop.
> 
> Just a reminder, I am here if you need help with anything PPC's! Feel free to tag me, message me or email me.
> 
> I need to stick around the thread more. This thread is awesome.


We try. There are some smart soldiers in here!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i was gonna get the enermax but i havent dealt with them before and i think they had colors. I am just going for all black fans
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17312/fan-1117/BitFenix_Spectre_All_Black_120mm_PWM_Fan_BFF-SCF-P12025KK-RP.html?tl=g36c365s936&id=SVEfLJ7a&mv_pc=4789#blank
> 
> especially if you are going push pull so you can turn down rpm. Decent deal. Not the silent god like AP 15 or the performance god either but I think would do the job.
Click to expand...

Those Fans......terribad.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> These are black with smoked acrylic blades
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/enermax-t-b-silence-120x25mm-case-fan-w-batwing-blades-halo-frame-w-punched-air-intake.html


And a sleek metallic frame


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those Fans......terribad.


noise? Bad performer? Both?

BTW since we are on the subject. I am trying hard to find 140 mm like this:

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120S.html

with white frame and black blades... Anyone known any model? I mean true 140 mm fans not the 140 mm with 120 mm mount pattern phanteks have:

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140TS.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those Fans......terribad.
> 
> 
> 
> noise? Bad performer? Both?
> 
> BTW since we are on the subject. I am trying hard to find 140 mm like this:
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120S.html
> 
> with white frame and black blades... Anyone known any model? I mean true 140 mm fans not the 140 mm with 120 mm mount pattern phanteks have:
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140TS.html
Click to expand...

They dont shift any air.

If you are looking at 140 fans then perhaps.......



http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=1200&page=1

Is anyone else have picture upload issues?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Any opinions one whether I should switch the 140mm stocks fans on the 750d with the corsair quiet Sp140s? I have the 240mm rad sitting behind them drawing air from it as exhaust? Would you think that would provide better dissipation of heat?

The Cautious One

EDIT: Speaking of the 2 x 140 front intakes


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those Fans......terribad.
> 
> 
> 
> noise? Bad performer? Both?
> 
> BTW since we are on the subject. I am trying hard to find 140 mm like this:
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120S.html
> 
> with white frame and black blades... Anyone known any model? I mean true 140 mm fans not the 140 mm with 120 mm mount pattern phanteks have:
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140TS.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They dont shift any air.
> 
> If you are looking at 140 fans then perhaps.......
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=1200&page=1
> 
> Is anyone else have picture upload issues?
Click to expand...

Those Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex series fans move more air thru a rad than any other 25mm thick 140 fan I've tested, and by a demonstrable amount . . . .

They are on the costly side though at about $30 each in the states.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

I have two of the Prolimatech blues and two of the red as well as 1 of the Aluminum vortex. The Alu vortex are indeed a beast but not exactly the color scheme I want...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I am set for 140mm fans I got yateloon D14sl-12 i got them for super cheap and i got 10 or so. I will try n find some gentle typhoons. Buy them over time if i have to i guess.

Are sp120s good fans. I mean if they are good ill just get it


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anybody here know how acrylic tubing is to paint? I would like to paint some acrylic tubing which I will be using for my upcoming rebuild, but I do not like clear tubing, it will either be painted acrylic tubing or chrome plated copper tubing (might do both to compare).


Alphacool sells chromed brass tubing. Only downfall is that it comes in one metric size as far as I've seen. I wouldn't be concerned with it being brass either since most fittings are made of brass anyhow with some sort of finish over them. I figured the link below would be a great candidate for you if it were of the right size and considering you're not planning on making any bends with it.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hardtube-13-10mm-brass-chrome-finish-40cm.html

You won't get the nice finish on acrylic tubing (painting the outside) as you would painting underneath acrylic panels which give you that glossy look.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I am set for 140mm fans I got yateloon D14sl-12 i got them for super cheap and i got 10 or so. I will try n find some gentle typhoons. Buy them over time if i have to i guess.
> 
> Are sp120s good fans. I mean if they are good ill just get it


Ehh they're decent. They're more suited for low rpm, low fpi setups.


----------



## VSG

SP120s? The HP editions are pretty good for most rads, at the expense of noise of course.


----------



## IT Diva

Finally down to the last little bits . . . .

Just need to extend the temp sensors so I can plug them into the Aquaero, and it'll be time to play.



I got all my inter-connection cables made up, and made a soldered up perfboard version of the controller that expanded into an interface board for the offboard cables and put status LEDs on the side.

one bi-color green/red for auto/man mode, then green for pumps on, then white for chiller #1 on, and white for chiller #2 on

I also ended up putting the flow meter displays on the side where they are easy to see at a glance.

The protoboard version of the controller versus the permanent version:





A little close up of the chiller SSR heatsink fans in the first pic:



Darlene


----------



## Yungbenny911

Wow...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Those Cougars are best suited for low fpi radiators if they are anything like the ones I have. If you paired them up with your Nemesis rads then it wasn't the best choice honestly. If you have to have PWM, then consider the eloop B12-P fans or something along those lines.


ok then. Bur U know i only got the cougars cuz u told me they were good right? Just sayin. I probably should have taken a closer look but i am getting frustrated.
So those nb eloops, or enermax tb silemce? Which will actually have static pressure at higher rpms i was looking at the pressure curve for these cougars and i mean its probably not the worst but ideally my minimum static preasure preference is 3mmh20


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> ok then. Bur U know i only got the cougars cuz u told me they were good right? Just sayin. I probably should have taken a closer look but i am getting frustrated.
> So those nb eloops, or enermax tb silemce? Which will actually have static pressure at higher rpms i was looking at the pressure curve for these cougars and i mean its probably not the worst but ideally my minimum static preasure preference is 3mmh20


Wait, where did I recommend the Cougars for the Nemesis rads? I don't even have that exact fan either









Either way, don't go ahead and replace them already. Did you try out how they end up cooling your components?

Finally, don't pay too much attention to the marketed specs. The pressure curves are almost never in the region of operation that we experience with rads/heatsinks.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Any opinions one whether I should switch the 140mm stocks fans on the 750d with the corsair quiet Sp140s? I have the 240mm rad sitting behind them drawing air from it as exhaust? Would you think that would provide better dissipation of heat?
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> EDIT: Speaking of the 2 x 140 front intakes


So are you saying the fans are exhausting air OUT the front of the case? or pulling air in? The 750d has horrible front intake airflo as Im sure you know so switching fans will make little difference however George has finally designed
a new front cover for the 750d (similiar to the 450d front panel) which will greatly improve air-flow. Should be available in the next month or two I believe










I'm keeping watch for these fans although DEEPCOOL they look kinda promising. 500-1800rpm PWM

http://www.deepcool.com/product/gamerstorm/2014-09/6_996.shtml


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wait, where did I recommend the Cougars for the Nemesis rads? I don't even have that exact fan either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either way, don't go ahead and replace them already. Did you try out how they end up cooling your components?
> 
> Finally, don't pay too much attention to the marketed specs. The pressure curves are almost never in the region of operation that we experience with rads/heatsinks.


it was a few days ago when i asked everyone what fans were good.
I thought it was you atleast.
I am gonna test them in push pull tomorrow hopefully. Probably not till the weekend.

Unfortunately i am sick today, feverish, swollen sinus, I am just out of it today

My only system that i can generate heat with is midmod i had to cut the fan hole top off of my caselabs bench to fit in my redharbinger desk(https://www.dropbox.com/s/j2iae11s4lcofd6/20141001_215725.jpg?dl=0 ). And i installed a waterblock on my better 780ti finally so i have another loop to setup. Luckily it wont take long once i get back on my feet

@philly pm sent







i need some sexy asrock emblems. I think


----------



## Jeemil89

Hi guys.

I'm going to switch my Ek DCP4.0 Pump to something more quiet/less vibrating. (It's louder than our vacuum cleaner, lol). Is the D5 quieter than the DDC/MCP35X ? I like the ddc more do to it's smaller size, but would the D5 be a better option? Also the ddc/mcp35x would be easier to mount in my situation.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang I was wondering anyone can help me.

I'm looking for 3D files for these parts:
- Zotac GTX 760 4BG Mini-ITX card
- CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 2400
- SAMSUNG 840 EVO 2.5" 250GB
- Silverstone Strider Gold 550W ATX 80 PLUS Gold Certified Full Modular Active PFC
- EK-FB ASUS M6I - Nickel
- EK-FC670 GTX - Nickel
- EK-DDC 3.2 PWM
- Black ICE GT Stealth 140mm
- be-Quite Silent Wings 2 140mm

Thanks in advance for any help


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> So are you saying the fans are exhausting air OUT the front of the case? or pulling air in? The 750d has horrible front intake airflo as Im sure you know so switching fans will make little difference however George has finally designed
> a new front cover for the 750d (similiar to the 450d front panel) which will greatly improve air-flow. Should be available in the next month or two I believe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm keeping watch for these fans although DEEPCOOL they look kinda promising. 500-1800rpm PWM
> 
> http://www.deepcool.com/product/gamerstorm/2014-09/6_996.shtml


Thats what I need!! And who Is george?? I found the fans on Newegg http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=deepcool+fan&N=-1&isNodeId=1

I have to put the front cover down. I am using the front intakes as exhaust to confirm your question. Will the front panel be through Corsair?


----------



## morencyam

George, aka CorsairGeorge, is the Corsair rep here on OCN

And NewEgg does not have the GF120 fans sdmf74 linked, just a few other DeepCool fans


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I'm going to switch my Ek DCP4.0 Pump to something more quiet/less vibrating. (It's louder than our vacuum cleaner, lol). Is the D5 quieter than the DDC/MCP35X ? I like the ddc more do to it's smaller size, but would the D5 be a better option? Also the ddc/mcp35x would be easier to mount in my situation.


D5 will likely be quieter and would be able to handle whatever that DCP pump was handling. It is going to be bigger for sure, and you may need a better top than the stock one.


----------



## psycho84

more Pics in the Spoiler










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Pimphare

That's nice @psycho84!







Clean and tidy!


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So...do I paint the block to match the board.......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: photo


I'd keep some of the black POM, with some details on the flat surface where the inlet/outlet are. Imagine a center area around the inlet/outlet painted to match the mobo and a thin, black area outlining it. I think it would look nice and give a bit more of detail to the build.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's nice @psycho84!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean and tidy!


^This^ all day long.

Nice job psycho84.


----------



## psycho84

Thx Guys









Next to come: Custom Cables


----------



## stickg1

Well you got some clean and tidy, now heres some packed and messy!









My folding rig.



I don't have any technical data to prove it, but I'm going to just say it. This Alphacool ST30 240mm radiator sucks. Can barely handle one 280x, while my Swiftech MCR220-QP is a total stud. I'm using Silverstone FN-121 fans, which is about 1200RPMs at full speed.

I'm going to toss the Alphacool and order another Swiftech. Also without fittings on the ports you can look inside the rad and see how much dirtier the Alphacool is than the Swiftech. I wont be buying Alphacools anymore, I'm sure your UT60s and Monstas are great, but I'll be sticking with different brands from now on.


----------



## Devildog83

Question to anyone with the XSPC Raystorm. I am going X99 2011 v3 soon and I am wondering if my water-block and hardware will work with it or do I need to get a new block?


----------



## Ramzinho

I need to join this club.. finally


----------



## VSG




----------



## stickg1

Looks good Ram, everything stay nice and dry?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Looks good Ram, everything stay nice and dry?


had a fitting leak on me.. but i drained it.. thanks for the drain system i got. and i installed another one.. going great.. only thing i hate.. is i've 4 pwm fans running at full speed.. i hate the hell out of them


----------



## stickg1

You can't turn them down a bit through the motherboard?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You can't turn them down a bit through the motherboard?


looks like gigabyte got lazy and u can't control it on any header other than cpu fan.. although fan header one should do it.. it doesn't work


----------



## JLMS2010

Ok-I have a question. I'm using bitspower multi link fittings and E22 tubing. The tubing does not seem to go all the way in. I've tried several different methods. I've chamfered the ends, used olive oil on the orings, etc.. If I slide the collar on to the tubing then insert it, it still won't seat all the way in. Then the collar scratches the acrylic tubing. I know it's been a long day, but am I missing something??


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You can't turn them down a bit through the motherboard?
> 
> 
> 
> looks like gigabyte got lazy and u can't control it on any header other than cpu fan.. although fan header one should do it.. it doesn't work
Click to expand...

Looks like SysFan 2 & 3 should do it for you. . . .not #1

D.


----------



## mus1mus

Any feedback on Primochill Fittings?


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Any feedback on Primochill Fittings?


I've used the primochill fittings and tubing and had no issues at all. Worked great for me!


----------



## IT Diva

Another day's progress,

Made up some extensions for the temp sensors and hooked them up to the A6, made a little splash shield for the 24V power supply for the cold loop pumps, and added an extension to the PSU cover so it runs from back to front, and got a piece of 1/4" glass to put in the side panel once I figure out how I want to do the big window shape.

I made one PSU extension in clear to show the exchangers, and one in mirror to match the rest of the trim panels.
The mirrored one kinda hides the plate exchangers a little, but it adds a lot to the overall look, so I went with that one.

Tomorrow I get to figure out how to make a nice side panel window, working with what's there already, so that the flow meters and the chiller controller status LEDs are easy to see.

Sooooooo close to ready for prime time . . . .

Darlene





And the stock 820 side panel that doesn't give you a lot to work with artistically:


----------



## reiben05

it's been a while.. i think i had 2 watercooling rigs now, just forgot to post em









my current one.. whilst leak testing..




in action..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Great Progress Today. I just wanted to be a temperature bandit like everyone else.


----------



## slothiraptor

The vrms dont need heatsinks?


----------



## Pimphare

No problems here man. I'm using Primochill tubing, fittings, and reservoir.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Been running like a champ!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I've used the primochill fittings and tubing and had no issues at all. Worked great for me!










Thanks for this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> No problems here man. I'm using Primochill tubing, fittings, and reservoir.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been running like a champ!


Nice to know man.. thanks

Ordered some compressions and rigid tubings to try.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Meh those alpenfons look loke they havelower static pressure than the cougars


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Meh those alpenfons look loke they havelower static pressure than the cougars


And?

Look like is not the same as Do not have.

In other news,its my 40th today.

WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And?
> 
> Look like is not the same as Do not have.
> 
> In other news,its my 40th today.
> 
> WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!


HAPPY BIRTHDAY


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And?
> 
> Look like is not the same as Do not have.
> 
> In other news,its my 40th today.
> 
> WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!


Couldn't find you a green team one







Happy birthday!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And?
> 
> Look like is not the same as Do not have.
> 
> In other news,its my 40th today.
> 
> WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't find you a green team one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy birthday!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

The team matters not,we all play the same game.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And?
> 
> Look like is not the same as Do not have.
> 
> In other news,its my 40th today.
> 
> WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!


old man is old.

JK bneg, ily


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And?
> 
> Look like is not the same as Do not have.
> 
> In other news,its my 40th today.
> 
> WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!


happy 40th!


----------



## midnytwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And?
> 
> Look like is not the same as Do not have.
> 
> In other news,its my 40th today.
> 
> WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!


Happy Birthday!









_"Life Begins At 40"_


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looks like SysFan 2 & 3 should do it for you. . . .not #1
> 
> D.










thaks darlene


----------



## sdmf74

Happy b-day B neg. 5 more days b4 I reach the big 4-0

Oh and that new front cover for the 750d (for better air flow) that someone asked about, yes you will find it on corsairs web site, not sure about an exact date but they say they are in the testing phase now.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> D5 will likely be quieter and would be able to handle whatever that DCP pump was handling. It is going to be bigger for sure, and you may need a better top than the stock one.


Ok, thanks! I'm getting the EK D5 res combo.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Happy b-day B neg. 5 more days b4 I reach the big 4-0
> 
> Oh and that new front cover for the 750d (for better air flow) that someone asked about, yes you will find it on corsairs web site, not sure about an exact date but they say they are in the testing phase now.


This makes me feel infantile. I'm not even 18 yet


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!


The cake is a lie



Happy birthday Neg. May you have the have the health of someone half your age and the wisdom of someone twice your age


----------



## Ramzinho

Happy Birthday B


----------



## chase11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> In other news,its my 40th today.
> 
> WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!


Better share that cake. My birthday aswell.


----------



## sdmf74

Anyone have experience with the Bitspower Dual G1/4" Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe II? Im actuaully thinkin about using it between my bitspower res & MCP50X pump.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

'40' is when the warranty runs out. One by one things that you used to take for granted will begin to quit working as well as they used to. lol


----------



## Destrto

Can someone link this new front cover for the 750D? I don't seem to be finding it on their page.

Also, Happy birthday B-Neg! Make it a good one!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> WHERE'S MA CAKE?!?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> The cake is a lie
> 
> 
> 
> Happy birthday Neg. May you have the have *the health of someone half your age and the wisdom of someone twice your age*
Click to expand...

Sadly its reverse of this.....


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly its reverse of this.....










I knew I'd get some witty response to that.


----------



## Dortheleus

Happy Birthday, let this new year be even better then your last.


----------



## sprower

Happy hill day B!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> This makes me feel infantile. I'm not even 18 yet


Well ledzepp3 by the looks of your music list you have an old soul... or just good taste.


----------



## Devildog83

Happy B-Day B- Neg & Chase11 too.!!!









I am partial to the Presence album myself but all Zepp is great.


----------



## chase11

Better share that cake B! My birthday aswell.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Happy hill day B!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well ledzepp3 by the looks of your music list you have an old soul... or just good taste.


Both of my parents are over 60 years old







I grew up listening to that kind of stuff, plus I just don't get the ideas that most modern pop musicians come up with...

Also, I've got a temp question for everyone. In my D'yer Mak'er rig, I've got a big 560mm HardwareLabs SR1 radiator. it's got 4 Noiseblocker PK-2 fans strapped to it, currently in a pull configuration. Would I get even a slightly noticeable temperature drop if I stuck another set of fans in push on the radiator?

-Zepp


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Both of my parents are over 60 years old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grew up listening to that kind of stuff, plus I just don't get the ideas that most modern pop musicians come up with...
> 
> Also, I've got a temp question for everyone. In my D'yer Mak'er rig, I've got a big 560mm HardwareLabs SR1 radiator. it's got 4 Noiseblocker PK-2 fans strapped to it, currently in a pull configuration. Would I get even a slightly noticeable temperature drop if I stuck another set of fans in push on the radiator?
> 
> -Zepp


I am too old, I actually went to a Zepp concert at the King-Dome in Seattle.


----------



## vaporizer

happy 40th B. as stated by other poster, Life begins at 40. enjoy the good times but don't forget to be young every now and then. here is your cake (click)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the Bitspower Dual G1/4" Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe II? Im actuaully thinkin about using it between my bitspower res & MCP50X pump.


I have a couple, they should be fine for what you intend to use them for. Rotary male-male adapters not an option?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So much win CAKE!


----------



## VSG

No cake here, but what about some Gold and Silver EK PE radiator action:


----------



## Ovrclck

I'm thinking of replacing my bay res with a tube res.. Full speed on my mcp35x2 creates a lot of bubbles! What do you guys recommend tube res wise? I've always been a bay type of guy but since jumping to acrylic and adding multiple rads, I can't get my loop bled all the way.

Plus, it's an excuse to bend some more acrylic!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I'm thinking of replacing my bay res with a tube res.. Full speed on my mcp35x2 creates a lot of bubbles! What do you guys recommend tube res wise? I've always been a bay type of guy but since jumping to acrylic and adding multiple rads, I can't get my loop bled all the way.
> 
> Plus, it's an excuse to bend some more acrylic!


I like Tube Res. I've no issues with the smaller EK tube. Does a great job at stopping any kind of bubble vortex despite it's small size. I have the EK RES X3 150. There are larger versions available.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I'm thinking of replacing my bay res with a tube res.. Full speed on my mcp35x2 creates a lot of bubbles! What do you guys recommend tube res wise? I've always been a bay type of guy but since jumping to acrylic and adding multiple rads, I can't get my loop bled all the way.
> 
> Plus, it's an excuse to bend some more acrylic!


I have the EK X-RES pump combo. It looks great, doesn't create bubbles, and made filling/bleeding the loop fairly easy.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I like Tube Res. I've no issues with the smaller EK tube. Does a great job at stopping any kind of bubble vortex despite it's small size. I have the EK RES X3 150. There are larger versions available.


I like! If EK, definitely the x3 series.

Most likely will go install here below. Maybe add a passthrough with direct line to pump.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> I have the EK X-RES pump combo. It looks great, doesn't create bubbles, and made filling/bleeding the loop fairly easy.


I like those options! The only combo for me would be to go with Swiftech's mcp35x res. It would work but I don't think it would fit where my pump is currently located.

Edit: Moving my pump to the top level with 35x res would be an easy fix. Maybe my brother will allow me to borrow his res temporarily


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I like! If EK, definitely the x3 series.
> 
> Most likely will go install here below
> 
> 
> I like those options! The only combo for me would be to go with Swiftech's mcp35x res. It would work but I don't think it would fit where my pump is currently located.


Our new MCP50X pump works with that reservoir also.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our new MCP50X pump works with that reservoir also.


Good to know. Thanks Bram!


----------



## Ramzinho

not as good as you guys of course. but for the case that's 100% not watercooling friendly. and being my first time. i'm kinda glad with the results.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> not as good as you guys of course. but for the case that's 100% not watercooling friendly. and being my first time. i'm kinda glad with the results.


Looks good! What's your temps at full load?


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> not as good as you guys of course. but for the case that's 100% not watercooling friendly. and being my first time. i'm kinda glad with the results.


well done first timer.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And?
> 
> Look like is not the same as Do not have.


i need more that just that to make me buy fans...
Look at their website's fan rating


----------



## capreppy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Ok-I have a question. I'm using bitspower multi link fittings and E22 tubing. The tubing does not seem to go all the way in. I've tried several different methods. I've chamfered the ends, used olive oil on the orings, etc.. If I slide the collar on to the tubing then insert it, it still won't seat all the way in. Then the collar scratches the acrylic tubing. I know it's been a long day, but am I missing something??


Very interested in thoughts on this as I am about to start plumbing my build using the same.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Looks good! What's your temps at full load?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> well done first timer.


water is @ 23.3C this is idle and my ambient is 22.
GPU idle: 29-30
CPU idle: 24-26

Prime load: 38-40
GPU Furmark 30 min: 43C
water goes to 25.5C


----------



## Trestles126

haven't built a computer in 12 years.... heres my long overdue attempt

Enthoo luxe
asus z97 Hero board
4790 4g
zotac gtx 780 ti
EK supremacy cpu block
ek clear acrylic copper 780 block backplates on order
full bitspower fittings
all acrylic hard tube finished the bending last night
aquatube resivor just for added excitement on the phanteks boring sidepannel
ek xtx 240 67mm thick radiator top
EK 240 radiator bottom
ek blood red fluid
adding on off drain port to finish the loop when i get the parts


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> water is @ 23.3C this is idle and my ambient is 22.
> GPU idle: 29-30
> CPU idle: 24-26
> 
> Prime load: 38-40
> GPU Furmark 30 min: 43C
> water goes to 25.5C


Well done!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> haven't built a computer in 12 years.... heres my long overdue attempt
> 
> Enthoo luxe
> asus z97 Hero board
> 4790 4g
> zotac gtx 780 ti
> EK supremacy cpu block
> ek clear acrylic copper 780 block backplates on order
> full bitspower fittings
> all acrylic hard tube finished the bending last night
> aquatube resivor just for added excitement on the phanteks boring sidepannel
> ek xtx 240 67mm thick radiator top
> EK 240 radiator bottom
> ek blood red fluid
> adding on off drain port to finish the loop when i get the parts
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Well done!


any notes on the build/ temps ?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> any notes on the build/ temps ?


Currently testing 4500mhz full load ranges from 50-60C.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And?
> 
> Look like is not the same as Do not have.
> 
> 
> 
> i need more that just that to make me buy fans...
> Look at their website's fan rating
Click to expand...

I did and I still bought them.

Those ratings dont mean a thing in real use. They are silent and shift air,dont get hung up on meaningless numbers.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capreppy*
> 
> Very interested in thoughts on this as I am about to start plumbing my build using the same.


I may try to order some different tubing and see what happens...


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> haven't built a computer in 12 years.... heres my long overdue attempt
> 
> Enthoo luxe
> asus z97 Hero board
> 4790 4g
> zotac gtx 780 ti
> EK supremacy cpu block
> ek clear acrylic copper 780 block backplates on order
> full bitspower fittings
> all acrylic hard tube finished the bending last night
> aquatube resivor just for added excitement on the phanteks boring sidepannel
> ek xtx 240 67mm thick radiator top
> EK 240 radiator bottom
> ek blood red fluid
> adding on off drain port to finish the loop when i get the parts
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pretty awesome build. Some of those bends in the acrylic look a little kinky and not in a good way. How is the flow?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> haven't built a computer in 12 years.... heres my long overdue attempt
> 
> Enthoo luxe
> asus z97 Hero board
> 4790 4g
> zotac gtx 780 ti
> EK supremacy cpu block
> ek clear acrylic copper 780 block backplates on order
> full bitspower fittings
> all acrylic hard tube finished the bending last night
> aquatube resivor just for added excitement on the phanteks boring sidepannel
> ek xtx 240 67mm thick radiator top
> EK 240 radiator bottom
> ek blood red fluid
> adding on off drain port to finish the loop when i get the parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome attempt sir!







What is that site glass looking thing in the lower front area?I like how this case has an extra smaller window in the front for a viewable temp meter or flow meter to be mounted in that area.

Edit: never mind the above question. I looked it up. What's the advantage of having the aquatube reservoir as an extra res when you have it mounted that low? Isn't it supposed to provide an easier means for filling the loop? Or maybe in your case it's primarily an aesthetics thing?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, I imagine a second res would be there primarily just for show, especially in that case where it is in the extra little side panel window of that Primo, but it doesn't matter where a reservoir is placed in a loop. A reservoir will work exactly the same allowing you to trap and bleed air and fill your loop whether it's been placed at the very bottom or very top of a loop or at any level in between. It's level of placement will have no bearing whatsoever except that it's best to have a res directly before and above a pump to help keep it primed.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And.seeing as no one will see....


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I like! If EK, definitely the x3 series.
> 
> Most likely will go install here below. Maybe add a passthrough with direct line to pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like those options! The only combo for me would be to go with Swiftech's mcp35x res. It would work but I don't think it would fit where my pump is currently located.
> 
> Edit: Moving my pump to the top level with 35x res would be an easy fix. Maybe my brother will allow me to borrow his res temporarily


Ive had my two 35xs for a very long time now, and they've worked splendidly, aside from the heat generation. I had them mounted in a Koolance single bay reservoir and they worked great there, even being upside down and not having any gravitational feed. Now that I have tube res kits from Bitspower for them, with their aluminum heatsink housing and a 120mm fan underneath them, I expect them to last years hopefully.

But still even then, I regret not just getting D5s.

It seems like thats almost all people use D5 pumps nowadays too. Its nice to see a build of this quality, that isnt small form factor, using DDC


----------



## Trestles126

There are no kinks must be the photos I used a monsoon dye kit with the proper silicone insert.

The extra res is purely aesthetic and will change the loop in no way. It will fill up completely and act like any other component in the loop. I built a watercooled pc 12 years ago.... I wanted this Aqua tube res badly back then. But in the states it was really hard to get. so to fill my boyhood childish dreams I bought it and put it in the loop so it showed directly where that small second panel window is.... Purely for show. The d5 ek res will act as my standard " resivoir" for filling and bleeding system.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Pretty awesome build. Some of those bends in the acrylic look a little kinky and not in a good way. How is the flow?


Sorry figuring out this site on my iPhone.

There are no kinks anywhere maybe it's the pictures. I used a monsoon dye kit with the proper silicone insert. The flows gonna be just fine


----------



## stickg1

Well cool, it looks fantastic. Update us when it's full and running.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Sorry figuring out this site on my iPhone.
> 
> There are no kinks anywhere maybe it's the pictures. I used a monsoon dye kit with the proper silicone insert. The flows gonna be just fine


Another Long Beach water cooler! Welcome to the club.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Another Long Beach water cooler! Welcome to the club.


ya buddy grew up in socal my work is out of long beach me and the wife bought a house down off the 405 and palos verdes a few years ago:thumb:


----------



## ozzy1925

putting the pumps on the same position with the res will cause trouble?


----------



## morencyam

You should be fine. The force of gravity will force the coolant to the lowest level, that being the pumps


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> putting the pumps on the same position with the res will cause trouble?


u will be fine... just make sure the 90deg fitting on the res is a bit tilted down


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You should be fine. The force of gravity will force the coolant to the lowest level, that being the pumps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> u will be fine... just make sure the 90deg fitting on the res is a bit tilted down


thank you both the other option would be using the front 2 ports on the pumps?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> putting the pumps on the same position with the res will cause trouble?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Please someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the 90° fittings no-no between the pump and res had to do with using DDC pumps. Or it may have been to do with exiting the pump with a 90° fitting lol. I can't remember now.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Please someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the 90° fittings no-no between the pump and res had to do with using DDC pumps. Or it may have been to do with exiting the pump with a 90° fitting lol. I can't remember now.


\

you will have a rotary 45/90 deg on ur res and either straight or 45 rotary fitting on your pump input. this is easier to achieve..

may i ask why are you going dual pumps?


----------



## Kimir

I'd use the front port of the top, in fact, I did.


----------



## Nichismo

Well guys, I finally went and took action on my horrible cable management (or lack thereof) and horrible cables themselves. I have had these white Corsair sleeved cables that you can purchase seperately for certain PSUs sitting for a while, but I had spilled red coolant on them in my last build and basically procrastinated on cleaning them. I plan to either bite the bullet and pay frozenCPU or PPCs for a custom set of cables, or learn how to make my own.

I cant believe how time consuming it was trying to unplug all the current cables and replug in the nicer ones and organize them to look nice. I had so many minor issues/tedious issues arise that drove me crazy, and in the end the job still didnt really look that good! at least not compared to so many I see nowadays, especially the boutique builders like Singularity or Maingear. I can only imagine the process and patience it must take for their level of cable configurations....

I still need to get combs and clips for the 24 pin cable as it looks bad right now. Im also contemplating getting a red extension for that instead, perhaps the contrasting red and white would go good with the coolant. Input?

I also added a couple of those (I think newly released) Bitspower universal VGA supports, for full cover GPU waterblocks. Im sick of my cards sagging from the weight and ruining aesthetics, not to mention putting stress on the motherboard and PCI slots. Another thing I did to clean things up a little, was add a 240mm blank plate to on the PSU mounting bar to cover up alot of the wires, along with another 120mm blank plate to cover the backside of the Aquaero and Poweradjust.

The last thing I want to do is a change in the lighting. The LED tubes im using are decent, but they are too bright and aggressive without any flare or flavor. Im probably going to get a pair of Darkside dimmable UV reactive LEDs, with the RGB controller. Ill hook it to my Aquaero and then ill be able to dim the lights, or change several different colors, and turn them on/off with my Aquaero remote









Besides that though, Unless I get a hardware upgrade, I think im done for a while X99 hopefully wont see any real competition for at least a couple years


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Thats a bitspower top, both fittings wont fit on front if they are 1/2id 3/4od fittings i am dealing with those complications at the moment.

Really as long as they fit it shouldnt be a problem.. that pump top doesnt fit much though..


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thank you both the other option would be using the front 2 ports on the pumps?


I'm pretty sure that port on top of the pump you have your red line going to is the Output from the pump, the middle port on the front is where you want the res feeding to.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that port on top of the pump you have your red line going to is the Output from the pump, the middle port on the front is where you want the res feeding to.


I'm fairly certain the BP tops have in and outs on both top and front


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm fairly certain the BP tops have in and outs on both top and front


^This... as well as an out on the bottom.


----------



## stickg1

Ah okay, not really familiar with that top. But I think a good solution would be just using the inlet on the front.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Please someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the 90° fittings no-no between the pump and res had to do with using DDC pumps. Or it may have been to do with exiting the pump with a 90° fitting lol. I can't remember now.


I've been using a 90° on the outlet of my DDC pump for 6 months now, no issues whatsoever.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Please someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the 90° fittings no-no between the pump and res had to do with using DDC pumps. Or it may have been to do with exiting the pump with a 90° fitting lol. I can't remember now.


I think Martin did testing that showed a 90 being detrimental at the inlet of a pump top, not the outlet. But I've run 90s at the inlet in most of my setups and it's always been fine for me.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I've been using a 90° on the outlet of my DDC pump for 6 months now, no issues whatsoever.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I think Martin did testing that showed a 90 being detrimental at the inlet of a pump top, not the outlet. But I've run 90s at the inlet in most of my setups and it's always been fine for me.


Yeah it was probably all blown out of proportion. Everybody's set-up is unique and should be taken into consideration as well. I'd assume with the correct orientation (res above pump) along with gravity that there shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## alancsalt

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/


----------



## VSG

It also depends on the exact fitting as well- especially with rotaries. Either way, I imagine most people are in the <1.5 GPM range so worrying about 0.1-0.2 PSI per component isn't worth it imo.

From the same link Alan posted:
Quote:


> Sure some extra fittings will add restriction, but it's very minor. As the chart shows, it would take almost 30 each 90 degree elbows to add up to 1 degree in CPU temp rise. Half a dozen to get to aesthetic perfection is perfectly fine from an art priority perspective.


----------



## CaliLife17

Starting to plan out my STH10 build, and it seems that on the top, with an AX1500i on one side, i will only be able to do a 240 Radiator on one side, and i believe a 480 on the other side (all the pictures i have seen show a 360 BARELY fits with an AX1200i, which is shorter). My question is, with 3x gtx nemesis 480 Rads, would it even be worth it to squeeze in a 240 up there as well? Im thinking instead i might get a 360 and put it in the front flex bay area, but i dont know how of a tight a squeeze that would be.

This is my current build in a 900D that i will be transplanting to a STH10. I always though the 900D was big enough, but nope, want bigger


----------



## Lefik

Pretty funky colors there, looks good


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Pretty funky colors there, looks good


Thanks,

the Tubing is more Blue than the picture shows. (PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing in blue} I was going for a blue/Red combo/Silver combo to copy Optimus Prime colors. The Corsair Blue PSU cables do throw it off, so i will eventually re-sleeve them to a color that is more fitting to the build.

My STH10 will be Gun Metal Grey, so i think it all will go together nicely.


----------



## jon666

Anyone have any experience overclocking dual gpu's with universal waterblocks? To be honest I am not sure if my psu was overheating and causing the blackscreens since it couldn't really breath. Busted out the table fan for now. Might cram more heatsinks onto gpu's tomorrow. Will probably stop stress testing soon and game since I had to work today.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Well guys, I finally went and took action on my horrible cable management (or lack thereof) and horrible cables themselves. I have had these white Corsair sleeved cables that you can purchase seperately for certain PSUs sitting for a while, but I had spilled red coolant on them in my last build and basically procrastinated on cleaning them. I plan to either bite the bullet and pay frozenCPU or PPCs for a custom set of cables, or learn how to make my own.
> 
> I cant believe how time consuming it was trying to unplug all the current cables and replug in the nicer ones and organize them to look nice. I had so many minor issues/tedious issues arise that drove me crazy, and in the end the job still didnt really look that good! at least not compared to so many I see nowadays, especially the boutique builders like Singularity or Maingear. I can only imagine the process and patience it must take for their level of cable configurations....
> 
> I still need to get combs and clips for the 24 pin cable as it looks bad right now. Im also contemplating getting a red extension for that instead, perhaps the contrasting red and white would go good with the coolant. Input?
> 
> I also added a couple of those (I think newly released) Bitspower universal VGA supports, for full cover GPU waterblocks. Im sick of my cards sagging from the weight and ruining aesthetics, not to mention putting stress on the motherboard and PCI slots. Another thing I did to clean things up a little, was add a 240mm blank plate to on the PSU mounting bar to cover up alot of the wires, along with another 120mm blank plate to cover the backside of the Aquaero and Poweradjust.
> 
> The last thing I want to do is a change in the lighting. The LED tubes im using are decent, but they are too bright and aggressive without any flare or flavor. Im probably going to get a pair of Darkside dimmable UV reactive LEDs, with the RGB controller. Ill hook it to my Aquaero and then ill be able to dim the lights, or change several different colors, and turn them on/off with my Aquaero remote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides that though, Unless I get a hardware upgrade, I think im done for a while X99 hopefully wont see any real competition for at least a couple years





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






>






Check out Ensourced Custom Cables. He does a lot of work for people around on OCN, and his work is top notch. You've seen a lot of his work if you've followed Jamewalt's builds, etc. I can personally say that he does a darn good job. And he isn't that expensive to boot (free shipping in the USA too! Last I checked).


----------



## Jameswalt1

Not really watercooling... but it will contain watercooling


----------



## VSG

XSPC EX, AX and RX:







Lots more on this and other rads soon.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> XSPC EX, AX and RX:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots more on this and other rads soon.


There you go posting up those sexy pics again. I just want to make my home since and cozy like those fins appear.


----------



## waveaddict

Anyone know where I can get 12mm/10mm acrylic tube here in the US,other than E22 or EK?Really want to use EK's HDC fittings and want to make all bends without 90 deg. fittings.Possibly colored but clear is fine.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get 12mm/10mm acrylic tube here in the US,other than E22 or EK?Really want to use EK's HDC fittings and want to make all bends without 90 deg. fittings.Possibly colored but clear is fine.


Is it definitely 12mm or is it 1/2"?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> There you go posting up those sexy pics again. I just want to make my home since and cozy like those fins appear.


Hehe.. Just putting those up to show how the core/fins have been more uniform with time and price point. XSPC EX rads are the cheapest as well as the oldest series of the three above, followed by AX and then the RX v3.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hehe.. Just putting those up to show how the core/fins have been more uniform with time and price point. XSPC EX rads are the cheapest as well as the oldest series of the three above, followed by AX and then the RX v3.


What would you personally go with?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What would you personally go with?


If money and space permits, RX v3 just based on initial impressions. Haven't done any testing yet and there are other brands in here as well- HWL, EK and Alphacool.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If money and space permits, RX v3 just based on initial impressions. Haven't done any testing yet and there are other brands in here as well- HWL, EK and Alphacool.


I must say, it is a nice looking rad with plenty of potential. Will you be running tests on them at any point?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I must say, it is a nice looking rad with plenty of potential. Will you be running tests on them at any point?


Yup, all will be going into a quad radiator comparison. So far I have HWL Nemesis GTS 480, GTX 560, SR1 560; Alphacool Monsta 480; EK PE480; XSPC AX480, EX560 and RX480 v3.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, all will be going into a quad radiator comparison. So far I have HWL Nemesis GTS 480, GTX 560, SR1 560; Alphacool Monsta 480; EK PE480; XSPC AX480, EX560 and RX480 v3.


I am definitely excited about this. I'd like to see what XSPC has to offer. I have not really looked into their products since building PC Face. However, with Folding with Sweet Leilani in progress I would like to see what is the most efficient!


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Is it definitely 12mm or is it 1/2"?


12mm OD not 1/2"
I know metric acrylic tube is harder to find.in bulk.Special Tech has 12mm OD rigid by shakmods but shipping might not be worth it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I am definitely excited about this. I'd like to see what XSPC has to offer. I have not really looked into their products since building PC Face. However, with Folding with Sweet Leilani in progress I would like to see what is the most efficient!


Same here. There are rads of all sorts of thickness in here also. I already have the fans for the test:


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Same here. There are rads of all sorts of thickness in here also. I already have the fans for the test:


eLoops... Such beautiful fans. If for whatever reason you feel like you have just a few too many, let me know!







Either way, I am excited to see what you come up with!


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> XSPC EX, AX and RX:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots more on this and other rads soon.


It kinda looks like you placed the rads in milk


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> eLoops... Such beautiful fans. If for whatever reason you feel like you have just a few too many, let me know!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either way, I am excited to see what you come up with!


lol 2 of those are from you, remember? Highly doubt I'll be parting with these anytime soon








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> It kinda looks like you placed the rads in milk


Thankfully not, just a macro lens with the rads in a light box.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol 2 of those are from you, remember? Highly doubt I'll be parting with these anytime soon


Ohhhh yeah, that's right... I remember the sweet sorrow I felt parting with them because they were 3mm too thick to fit in my 550D. So bitter sweet it was...


----------



## ccRicers

@geggeg, those are some pretty nice macro shots. Love my silver AX's, although I wish the fins weren't bare copper.

Not too many AX silver owners here it seems, so I'll post some of my pics up:










The stock photos make it look white but here you can see it's very silvery in color.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> @geggeg, those are some pretty nice macro shots. Love my silver AX's, although I wish the fins weren't bare copper.


Have you seen this: http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-ax360-radiator/5/?

I wanted to save all the pics for the roundup thread but these may well come in handy to you:







You will need a Torq T10 screwdriver and there are 4 screws on each end. Then remove the tape pieces to allow the core to simply slide out and spray on a thin coat of your fav black paint. Reverse the process to re-assemble!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Have you seen this: http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-ax360-radiator/5/?
> 
> I wanted to save all the pics for the roundup thread but these may well come in handy to you:
> 
> *snip*
> 
> You will need a Torq T10 screwdriver and there are 4 screws on each end. Then remove the tape pieces to allow the core to simply slide out and spray on a thin coat of your fav black paint. Reverse the process to re-assemble!


XD I actually took apart my 240 rad today in order to test some modded fans with it. But I didn't know about this mod! I always considered painting the rad fins a no-no, but the article shows what paint they used. I'm gonna have to try that with mine! +rep


----------



## VSG

Glad it helped! I haven't bothered to take the core out myself and stopped at the part shown above but just keep the tape in check to make sure it holds the core in place later as well and it should be great. Any paint should be fine- a single thin coat will do wonders for color and not hurt performance appreciably.

Edit: The EK PE rads have the same feature as well. More on that similarity in due time.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> 12mm OD not 1/2"
> I know metric acrylic tube is harder to find.in bulk.Special Tech has 12mm OD rigid by shakmods but shipping might not be worth it.


To answer your question, FrozenCPU has some Bitspower 12mm tubing in stock. Link here. I bought it because I found it to be relatively cheap. It is cheaper than EK, at least where I looked. 500 mm is the longest length you could get from them. You can get Bitspower tubing for $7 a meter whereas the EK tubing was $10 a meter.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you are painting AX's,get the white version,the core is already blacked and the white adds good luminosity to colour finishes.

I have a pair of 240 PE's coming,I will add pron shots of them when they arrive. I think only the side plates are removable on those however.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have a pair of 240 PE's coming,I will add pron shots of them when they arrive. I think only the side plates are removable on those however.


Haven't opened up the EK PE yet but looks no different than the AX in terms of opening up both sides and sliding the core out.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Haven't opened up the EK PE yet but looks no different than the AX in terms of opening up both sides and sliding the core out.


Tried to do this with the PE rad I had, the panels were all interlocked and required more force to take apart than I was willing to use. AXs were far more modular


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you are painting AX's,get the white version,the core is already blacked and the white adds good luminosity to colour finishes.
> 
> I have a pair of 240 PE's coming,I will add pron shots of them when they arrive. I think only the side plates are removable on those however.


They come completely apart, core comes out. Very tightly interlocked together like fakeblood said. If you paint them you need to be careful that they interlock back together correctly or you'll scratch paint super easy. There are several finicky edges that go over other edges to fit together, but if the wrong edge accidentally goes over when it should have gone under - immediate scratch on the wrong area.

Worth it though, they look great


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Check out Ensourced Custom Cables. He does a lot of work for people around on OCN, and his work is top notch. You've seen a lot of his work if you've followed Jamewalt's builds, etc. I can personally say that he does a darn good job. And he isn't that expensive to boot (free shipping in the USA too! Last I checked).


wow, I cant believe I never noticed this website! im ordering a set of cables ASAP..... as soon as I figure out what colors I want to use.... Which is honestly pretty tough. Any input?

I like the black, grey, and red ones he has shown in alot of the pictures... I was thinking I could do something really similar but with white replacing the grey. But then again I was planning to not have any black cables that are typically visible in the build.



Can he perhaps ship the cable with those wire wraps installed? Ive always had a ton of trouble organizing my cables so that they flow well like Ive seen in so many builds.

Ive been going overboard with pictures lately since ive been borrowing a friends phone. These are my last for a while I promise xD






Gosh I actually felt like my GPU cables were decent, but after looking at that first picture, it makes mine look horrible!


----------



## sdmf74

Those of you with MAXIMUS VII FORMULA motherboards can you open up AISUITEIII & tell me what temp your vrm's are and if air or water cooled? Mine seems to be quite high, I have great temps on cpu/gpu but my motherboard vrms are @ 38c just browsing the internet which is +10c or more than my cpu/gpu.

Asus says "ROG testing has shown that a liquid-cooled ROG Maximus VII Formula motherboard with CrossChill operates at temperatures up to 23 degrees Celsius lower than air-only cooling" This may be exaggerated to some extent but if it were the case my vrms would be approx. 61c at idle on air.









24/7 oc 48x @ 1.32v (adaptive) Loop temp 24c


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> There are several finicky edges that go over other edges to fit together, but if the wrong edge accidentally goes over when it should have gone under - immediate scratch on the wrong area.


You can see it here a bit, looking at the top left corner. The curved 90 degree fold on the left panel needs to go inside the top panel at an angle, otherwise you scrape the rounded edge. And you need to press the top panel inwards to avoid the 120mm fan mount tabs from scraping. But you can't do all four of them at an angle. The last one will need to go in straight (because: squares are square!). So I picked one corner that's least visible and bent the edges outward a bit. Then when all screwed in, push the edges straight again.



Bonus points for anyone who sees what is missing in the picture


----------



## failwheeldrive

^Mobo tray?

Those rads do look nice painted.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> There are several finicky edges that go over other edges to fit together, but if the wrong edge accidentally goes over when it should have gone under - immediate scratch on the wrong area.
> 
> 
> 
> You can see it here a bit, looking at the top left corner. The curved 90 degree fold on the left panel needs to go inside the top panel at an angle, otherwise you scrape the rounded edge. And you need to press the top panel inwards to avoid the 120mm fan mount tabs from scraping. But you can't do all four of them at an angle. The last one will need to go in straight (because: squares are square!). So I picked one corner that's least visible and bent the edges outward a bit. Then when all screwed in, push the edges straight again.
> 
> 
> 
> *Bonus points for anyone who sees what is missing in the picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
Click to expand...

A Rainbow Unicorn.

Win.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You can see it here a bit, looking at the top left corner. The curved 90 degree fold on the left panel needs to go inside the top panel at an angle, otherwise you scrape the rounded edge. And you need to press the top panel inwards to avoid the 120mm fan mount tabs from scraping. But you can't do all four of them at an angle. The last one will need to go in straight (because: squares are square!). So I picked one corner that's least visible and bent the edges outward a bit. Then when all screwed in, push the edges straight again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bonus points for anyone who sees what is missing in the picture


The rest of the computer.


----------



## WiSK

Some clever answers there, but no, it's the EK-Extenders.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Anyone have any experience overclocking dual gpu's with universal waterblocks? To be honest I am not sure if my psu was overheating and causing the blackscreens since it couldn't really breath. Busted out the table fan for now. Might cram more heatsinks onto gpu's tomorrow. Will probably stop stress testing soon and game since I had to work today.


Any temperature monitoring features on the GPUs and GPU VRMs? I guess which GPUs and PSU is a better question.


----------



## jon666

GPU Model:http://www.sapphiretech.com/presentation/product/product_index.aspx?cid=1&gid=3&sgid=1160&pid=1487&lid=1#
Been using GPU-Z to watch temps, core never moves past 39 C GPU clock is 1150 GPU memory at 1325, voltage is at 1.262. Not sure of VRM temps but card does get really hot to the touch. PSU is also pushing out some really hot air. Seems to be doing a little better now that I have raised the bottom of the case. Still troubleshooting/overclocking.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah but what PSU are you using and do you have heatsinks on the GPU's VRMs?


----------



## jon666

I have heatsinks on some of the vrms. PSU os a SeasonicM12II 850 watt unit.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello fellow water cooling members!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to ask what tubing size and type you all use. I'm planning a 900D build with 4 to 5 Rads. There will be some tight bends. I always use ID 1/2 OD 3/4 Advanced LRT clear. It's very hard to work with. Feels very stiff and does not bend well. Makes water cooling very difficult. Any solutions?
> Thank you.


I really like to avoid a ton of fitting as well. I use the same brand tubing in a 3/4" OD 1/2" ID and use a spring inside the piece i need shaped and submerge it into water that is @ 170-180F , shape it to desired bend(s) and submerge in cold water. I have got some amazing compound bends this way.


----------



## Ragsters

I love my AX Rads.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I love my AX Rads.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love your AX Rads too


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Pretty funky colors there, looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> the Tubing is more Blue than the picture shows. (PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing in blue} I was going for a blue/Red combo/Silver combo to copy Optimus Prime colors. The Corsair Blue PSU cables do throw it off, so i will eventually re-sleeve them to a color that is more fitting to the build.
> 
> My STH10 will be Gun Metal Grey, so i think it all will go together nicely.
Click to expand...

I am using the same tubing and came up with a color 3 scheme I really like including Slate Grey as an accent color.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I love my AX Rads.


Are you gonna use red liquid?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I love my AX Rads.


So Clean.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Are you gonna use red liquid?


That has never been my intent. I like the way the lights reflect off of the clear liquid.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> That has never been my intent. I like the way the lights reflect off of the clear liquid.


Same here, clear blocks clear tubing clear fluid, clear it's so scientific like tubes in a laboratory. I'm doing it for the beauty and the insight as to what might happen to the fluid over time, since I'm a beginner.

Unfortunately we are the minority voice it seems.


----------



## sinnedone

For any of you guys worried about painting the fins of your radiators and possibly negatively impacting performance. This is a spray I use on my radiators and intercoolers and sometimes ac condensers on my cars, Its called Eastwood Radiator Paint .

It sprays on very light and does not insulate like normal paints. Alot of professionals use this when restoring older cars as well. Good stuff.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> That has never been my intent. I like the way the lights reflect off of the clear liquid.
> 
> 
> 
> Same here, clear blocks clear tubing clear fluid, clear it's so scientific like tubes in a laboratory. I'm doing it for the beauty and the insight as to what might happen to the fluid over time, since I'm a beginner.
> 
> Unfortunately we are the minority voice it seems.
Click to expand...

Most if not all of my rigs,excluding the S3,are just water and biocide. Its best for use and disposal.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Most if not all of my rigs,excluding the S3,are just water and biocide. Its best for use and disposal.


Yup! Distilled and biocide FTW


----------



## jon666

Well, I guess it is stock clocks for GPU memory for me until I figure out something better. Fairly certain that was causing crashes. Also managed to successfully install 14.9 without bsods, but ccc did give me warnings without stating what the warnings were about. Can't maintain stabilty with core at 1200mhz, but 1190 seems doable.
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/4269733?
Glad I dumped everything under water. Makes things more exciting.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I love my AX Rads.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm feelin' the love . . . . .

I'm lovin' my AX as well . . . .

This is what I was able to come up with for a side window mod for the 820 that let the things that I wanted to feature, be easily seen.





White fins to match the housing on the AX 360:



Darlene


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> To answer your question, FrozenCPU has some Bitspower 12mm tubing in stock. Link here. I bought it because I found it to be relatively cheap. It is cheaper than EK, at least where I looked. 500 mm is the longest length you could get from them. You can get Bitspower tubing for $7 a meter whereas the EK tubing was $10 a meter.


I've seen the Bitspower 12mm,how is it to heat and bend?
Anyone else have experience with 12mm acrylic and bending.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> To answer your question, FrozenCPU has some Bitspower 12mm tubing in stock. Link here. I bought it because I found it to be relatively cheap. It is cheaper than EK, at least where I looked. 500 mm is the longest length you could get from them. You can get Bitspower tubing for $7 a meter whereas the EK tubing was $10 a meter.
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen the Bitspower 12mm,how is it to heat and bend?
> Anyone else have experience with 12mm acrylic and bending.
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/0_20


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Bp top has 2 out and 3 in. On the face there is an in and an out(too close to use 2 large compressions). On one side there is a single in and on the opposing side is an in and out(too close together for compressions).


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> *Same here, clear blocks clear tubing clear fluid, clear it's so scientific like tubes in a laboratory*. I'm doing it for the beauty and the insight as to what might happen to the fluid over time, since I'm a beginner.
> 
> Unfortunately we are the minority voice it seems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm feelin' the love . . . . .
> 
> I'm lovin' my AX as well . . . .
> 
> This is what I was able to come up with for a side window mod for the 820 that let the things that I wanted to feature, be easily seen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White fins to match the housing on the AX 360:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Yeah I'm totally digging the lab experiment looking theme here. The stainless steel adds a nice touch along with the lcd dispays as seen in medical equipment for monitoring vital signs. Even a morphine drip hanging off of the back lol. Maybe with a few minor tweaks you can figure out how to program this thing to perform medical surgeries.







:


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I am using the same tubing and came up with a color 3 scheme I really like including Slate Grey as an accent color.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You need backplates, man. They really help with the passive cooling of these cards (and it looks so good without those CSQ-rings).

With that setup, what temperatures are you seeing during load with all four GPU's? With my 2x MO-RA3 420 LT's I have max temperature at 46C on all four cards (core temperature), after gaming a while.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm feelin' the love . . . . .
> 
> I'm lovin' my AX as well . . . .
> 
> This is what I was able to come up with for a side window mod for the 820 that let the things that I wanted to feature, be easily seen.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White fins to match the housing on the AX 360:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


The cut out is perfect! Good job.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm feelin' the love . . . . .
> 
> I'm lovin' my AX as well . . . .
> 
> This is what I was able to come up with for a side window mod for the 820 that let the things that I wanted to feature, be easily seen.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White fins to match the housing on the AX 360:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> The cut out is perfect! Good job.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I finished dressing the cuts, wet sanding, and the paint is drying now . . . . . gotta have the glass shop trim about a sixteenth of an inch off the front to back length. They nailed the top to bottom length perfectly for a drop in and lift fit. . . . . I'm using real 1/4" glass for the side panel, instead of acrylic.

I tried to pick up the line coming around from the front panel for the angle at the top front while keeping the flow meters and chiller controller status LEDs fairly centered in view.

It's still a bit weird to look at the Delta t sensor reading and it's a negative number . . . .

I'm almost thinking about setting up a way to use offset, and have it maintain about a -10 Delta t, which would keep me just above the condensation worries.

Darlene


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm feelin' the love . . . . .
> 
> I'm lovin' my AX as well . . . .
> 
> This is what I was able to come up with for a side window mod for the 820 that let the things that I wanted to feature, be easily seen.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


A woman who owns her own clean scientific laboratory is so sexy, my face is blushing...

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Blitz cleaning mini update (more details coming soon in the quad rad comparison):



Only thing that kinda surprised me was the EX560 given the other XSPC rads, I had 2 samples of the AX480 as well to play with.


----------



## Ironsmack

Finally finished one of my LED strip. I have a couple of more to do plus in the res.



Then my 3rd PCIe slot decided to die. After a frustrating 3 hours trying to figure out why i keep blue screening, switching GPU's, switching slots, installing and reinstalling GPU's, turning off PCIe switches - a faulty PCIe slot found.

It's like, every week... There's always something


----------



## andytom69

double loop "Power italian style.."


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I am using the same tubing and came up with a color 3 scheme I really like including Slate Grey as an accent color.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need backplates, man. They really help with the passive cooling of these cards (and it looks so good without those CSQ-rings).
> 
> With that setup, what temperatures are you seeing during load with all four GPU's? With my 2x MO-RA3 420 LT's I have max temperature at 46C on all four cards (core temperature), after gaming a while.
Click to expand...

.....errr they do have backplates. they are cut out around the components that get warm.



I am getting temps of 39-41c with a Heaven 4 loop or gaming.


----------



## SuDDi

Hey, over the weekend I've been engrossed in my first water-cooling project so that I could finally join this fine club!

It was a learning experience. It got a bit wet at times. But now the leak-testing is done, and the system did not explode when powered on; one point for me.








And while it certainly isn't much to look at after browsing this thread, I am fairly pleased with how my first attempt turned out. Pics ahoy:




And there is so much space left just begging for me to buy stuff!

Mabye I should have read up on all of this a bit before I went at it, but the learn as you go approach pulled through in the end. One thing I learned first hand was that it is fine to open the fillport on the top radiator. And it is fine to open the fillport at the top of the reservoir. *BUT* it is not fine to open both; it is, in fact, quite wet.










I would really appreciate some advice from some of you more knowledgeable individuals; first and foremost how to tackle this abomination:

Yea, so I bought a D5 Vario pump and added an EK pump-top, but I could find no way the screw holes would fit those on the Entho Primo pump bracket. I feel like there should be some way to mount it properly on the designated pump bracket? Well, my rubber band solution isn't really doing a good job in terms of hemming vibrations, and noise is my top-most concern. Is just time to bust out the power drill?

My low noise tolerance also forced me to remove the three Phanteks PH-F140XP PWM fans I had bought and placed ontop of the top radiator. They all produced different and highly annoying motor sounds (buzzing/ticking) that are absent from their non-PWM brethren included in the case. Were these just particularly poor fans, or is such noise common among PWM fans? My pair of NH-A15's have never had such a problem atleast, and while I can't mount them on top, they simply get to lie there until I can find some replacement.

Another thing that has been bothering me is the water in my loop and PH levels. I picked up a couple of liters of "battery-water" (deionized as there does not seem to be any distilled water around anymore) and added a drop of Mayhem Biocide in each liter bottle I used. Also included was some PH test strips and the recommendation that it should be keept in the 6-8 range. Seeing this I tested the water in the loop and I think the result was 4-5. Now, the bit of chemistry knowledge I do have tells me that the active component of Mayhem Biocide, Copper-sulphate should increase PH when dissolved. HSO4 is a weak acid and so the sulphate ion, it's conjugate base, should act as a fairly strong base, no?

I added two more drops of Biocide to the loop but from what I can tell that only lowered PH slightly. So in short; does Mayhems Biocide increase or decrease PH? If it does not, how should I go about making the water less acidic, if in fact I should bother at all.

Well, now I'm gonna try to clock that gtx 680 a bit more and think happy thoughts on the 980 shipping to me in an undetermined future.


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andytom69*
> 
> double loop "Power italian style.."


----------



## sprower

Look great SuDDi, if noise is your primary concern for your pump mount then you definitely won't want to screw it down (unless the Primo has a crapton of rubber mounting mechanism that I'm unaware of) as pump vibration will transfer directly to your case and it can make a helluva racket. 10/10 Watercoolers recommend a nice Shoggy sandwich.


----------



## SuDDi

A Shoggy Sandwich huh? Sounds like a a good idea. Now the only question is if I should order one or cut off a piece of my oversized QCK Heavy. Cheers.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip (1)
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, over the weekend I've been engrossed in my first water-cooling project so that I could finally join this fine club!
> 
> It was a learning experience. It got a bit wet at times. But now the leak-testing is done, and the system did not explode when powered on; one point for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And while it certainly isn't much to look at after browsing this thread, I am fairly pleased with how my first attempt turned out. Pics ahoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And there is so much space left just begging for me to buy stuff!
> 
> Mabye I should have read up on all of this a bit before I went at it, but the learn as you go approach pulled through in the end. One thing I learned first hand was that it is fine to open the fillport on the top radiator. And it is fine to open the fillport at the top of the reservoir. *BUT* it is not fine to open both; it is, in fact, quite wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would really appreciate some advice from some of you more knowledgeable individuals; first and foremost how to tackle this abomination:
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, so I bought a D5 Vario pump and added an EK pump-top, but I could find no way the screw holes would fit those on the Entho Primo pump bracket. I feel like there should be some way to mount it properly on the designated pump bracket? Well, my rubber band solution isn't really doing a good job in terms of hemming vibrations, and noise is my top-most concern. Is just time to bust out the power drill?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip (2)
> 
> 
> 
> My low noise tolerance also forced me to remove the three Phanteks PH-F140XP PWM fans I had bought and placed ontop of the top radiator. They all produced different and highly annoying motor sounds (buzzing/ticking) that are absent from their non-PWM brethren included in the case. Were these just particularly poor fans, or is such noise common among PWM fans? My pair of NH-A15's have never had such a problem atleast, and while I can't mount them on top, they simply get to lie there until I can find some replacement.
> 
> Another thing that has been bothering me is the water in my loop and PH levels. I picked up a couple of liters of "battery-water" (deionized as there does not seem to be any distilled water around anymore) and added a drop of Mayhem Biocide in each liter bottle I used. Also included was some PH test strips and the recommendation that it should be keept in the 6-8 range. Seeing this I tested the water in the loop and I think the result was 4-5. Now, the bit of chemistry knowledge I do have tells me that the active component of Mayhem Biocide, Copper-sulphate should increase PH when dissolved. HSO4 is a weak acid and so the sulphate ion, it's conjugate base, should act as a fairly strong base, no?
> 
> I added two more drops of Biocide to the loop but from what I can tell that only lowered PH slightly. So in short; does Mayhems Biocide increase or decrease PH? If it does not, how should I go about making the water less acidic, if in fact I should bother at all.
> 
> Well, now I'm gonna try to clock that gtx 680 a bit more and think happy thoughts on the 980 shipping to me in an undetermined future.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Look great SuDDi, if noise is your primary concern for your pump mount then you definitely won't want to screw it down (unless the Primo has a crapton of rubber mounting mechanism that I'm unaware of) as pump vibration will transfer directly to your case and it can make a helluva racket. 10/10 Watercoolers recommend a nice Shoggy sandwich.


The Phanteks pump bracket does have a rubber pads on both the top between it and the pump and on the bottom where it mounts to the case. The holes won't line up with EK's baseplate though. You could drill out EK's baseplate or the bracket so that the holes do line up but you don't really need but one screw to hold it in place. One nice thing about the Phanteks bracket is that the holes are threaded. I used a single thumbscrew to mount the pump to the bracket. I had to use one I already had though (I have a whole bunch of these) as the threads on the extra thumbscrews that come with the Phanteks case weren't quite long enough to make it through EK's plate and the rubber padding.

As long as the screws are all tight holding the pump to EK's baseplate, the baseplate to the Phanteks bracket, and the bracket to the case it does a fair job at decoupling pump vibrations.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> A Shoggy Sandwich huh? Sounds like a a good idea. Now the only question is if I should order one or cut off a piece of my oversized QCK Heavy. Cheers.


well done pal.. trust me it's easy cause of your amazing case









I have been cut, wounded , had a sore shoulder, cramps all over doing this in my tight case...


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question for you guys. Do you guys put any sort of lubrication on your rubbers or just insert all willly nilly?

Talking about fittings of course.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question for you guys. Do you guys put any sort of lubrication on your rubbers or just insert all willly nilly?
> 
> Talking about fittings of course.


I went Raw if you know what I mean


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question for you guys. Do you guys put any sort of lubrication on your rubbers or just insert all willly nilly?
> 
> Talking about fittings of course.


After one time having a small leak that I later found out was due to an o-ring that got pinched/twisted during tightening of the fitting, I've ever since used a tiny amount of silicone o-ring grease on all my fittings prior to first use. I started doing so after seeing the suggestion here, I think it was by B Negative. I sometimes take the o-rings off of the fitting to do so, but sometimes the o-rings are really tight in place to where it seems that just trying to remove it might damage it, and in that case I''ll just swipe a little dab on the o-ring in place.

edit:
I also have found that using a dab of silicone grease around the outside end of flexible tube after putting it on the base of a compression fitting helps a lot to make tightening down the compression ring easier. I also use a dab of the silicone grease on my bending cord that I use for bending acrylic tubing, especially Primochill's acrylic tubing as the ID of it sometimes varies and the bending cord can be a little difficult to insert and remove without using the grease.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I went Raw if you know what I mean


All raw dawg, got it. lol Did you install more than once?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> After one time having a small leak that I later found out was due to an o-ring that got pinched/twisted during tightening of the fitting, I've ever since used a tiny amount of silicone o-ring grease on all my fittings prior to first use. I started doing so after seeing the suggestion here, I think it was by B Negative. I sometimes take the o-rings off of the fitting to do so, but sometimes the o-rings are really tight in place to where it seems that just trying to remove it might damage it, and in that case I''ll just swipe a little dab on the o-ring in place.
> 
> edit:
> I also have found that using a dab of silicone grease around the outside end of flexible tube after putting it on the base of a compression fitting helps a lot to make tightening down the compression ring easier. I also use a dab of the silicone grease on my bending cord that I use for bending acrylic tubing, especially Primochill's acrylic tubing as the ID of it sometimes varies and the bending cord can be a little difficult to insert and remove without using the grease.


Thanks for the tip.

You see right now I'm in the process of figuring out my fittings/hard acrylic tubing routing and figure in the end orings might be damaged with all the mounting and unmounting of fittings.

Here's is a picture of progress so far:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> All raw dawg, got it. lol Did you install more than once?
> Thanks for the tip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You see right now I'm in the process of figuring out my fittings/hard acrylic tubing routing and figure in the end orings might be damaged with all the mounting and unmounting of fittings.
> 
> 
> Here's is a picture of progress so far:


The Tip eh?







I have installed them more than once. Removed, replaced, repositioned. Nothing ever leaked.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> A Shoggy Sandwich huh? Sounds like a a good idea. Now the only question is if I should order one *or cut off a piece of my oversized QCK Heavy.* Cheers.


Its served me well enough a few times and it works a treat too.


----------



## Trestles126

I have all ek blocks and radiators with bitspower rigid fittings are the o rings suffice or should white plumbers tape be used when threading fittings into components?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have all ek blocks and radiators with bitspower rigid fittings are the o rings suffice or should white plumbers tape be used when threading fittings into components?


The o-rings are all you need,adding tape can actually damage components,especially acrylic tops.

Smear the o-rings with silicone lube and they will stay lovely and soft forever.


----------



## snef

I just received the new GPU's for Renegade X

now waiting for put these under water


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I just received the new GPU's for Renegade X
> 
> now waiting for put these under water
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


bet you are were as happy as your avatar when you had these


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> bet you are were as happy as your avatar when you had these












more like this -->


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I just received the new GPU's for Renegade X
> 
> now waiting for put these under water
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like that they are sticking with this cooler design but..... That backplate...


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I just received the new GPU's for Renegade X
> 
> now waiting for put these under water
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Them fan shrouds look pretty beast, minus the neon lettering. It's almost saddening to take them off ehh.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Skyrim 900D. Not my build, but got it done this weekend for a friend. Still missing a few parts, but at least it's running.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Skyrim 900D. Not my build, but got it done this weekend for a friend. Still missing a few parts, but at least it's running.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just the man I need to speak with! Is that vinyl work you've created on the front bezel?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Just the man I need to speak with! Is that vinyl work you've created on the front bezel?


That was lasered into the case. Basically burned the paint off and exposed the aluminum.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That was lasered into the case. Basically burned the paint off and exposed the aluminum.


Awesome! I sent you a PM.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That was lasered into the case. Basically burned the paint off and exposed the aluminum.


You've always got some nice work to show off!! Well done, dude!


----------



## nismoskyline

hmm, the price drops on 780ti classifieds really is making me want to pick up 2 of them and watercool.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You've always got some nice work to show off!! Well done, dude!


Thanks. Redoing my rig with regular tubing. Got tired of acrylic tubing.

I'm thinking chrome fittings, and black tubing


----------



## maxforces

http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/bl1-2.jpg.html
http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/bl4.jpg.html
http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/v8blue.jpg.html


----------



## SuDDi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxforces*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/bl1-2.jpg.html
> http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/bl4.jpg.html
> http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/v8blue.jpg.html


Beautiful.

My crusade against the pump noise of my D5 continues. An excessive amount of dampening material and turning the speed to the lowest possible setting finally made the thing adequately silent. I ran it overnight on full speed which also might have helped dislodge some air, who knows. In any case, is there a better pump on the market noise wise? I currently plan on returning the pump motor and exchanging it for a PWM model.

The Phanteks stock fans also failed in the noise department; making themselves known to an unpleasant degree even on the lowest possible speed.

I demand that the PC be silent at low loads. Not quiet, silent damn it!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *maxforces*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/bl1-2.jpg.html
> http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/bl4.jpg.html
> http://s288.photobucket.com/user/maxforces/media/v8blue.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful.
> 
> My crusade against the pump noise of my D5 continues. An excessive amount of dampening material and turning the speed to the lowest possible setting finally made the thing adequately silent. I ran it overnight on full speed which also might have helped dislodge some air, who knows. In any case, is there a better pump on the market noise wise? I currently plan on returning the pump motor and exchanging it for a PWM model.
> 
> The Phanteks stock fans also failed in the noise department; making themselves known to an unpleasant degree even on the lowest possible speed.
> 
> I demand that the PC be silent at low loads. Not quiet, silent damn it!
Click to expand...

You need to modify your expectation.


----------



## SuDDi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need to modify your expectation.


Perhaps... But when air cooled, my system did meet my expectations. And as long as the pump stays this quiet during low loads everything will be fine. Although I do plan on basically enclosing the thing in noise dampening foam. The water flow should take care of cooling the pump, shouldn't it?

I just hope the Be quiet Pure Wings I ordered actually are appropriately quiet. I don't want to resort to the beige-brown alternative, the ones I do have are already going to take up the hidden front panel compartment


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need to modify your expectation.


Lol.. or wear headphones.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> Perhaps... But when air cooled, my system did meet my expectations. And as long as the pump stays this quiet during low loads everything will be fine. Although I do plan on basically enclosing the thing in noise dampening foam. The water flow should take care of cooling the pump, shouldn't it?
> 
> I just hope the Be quiet Pure Wings I ordered actually are appropriately quiet. I don't want to resort to the *beige-brown* alternative, the ones I do have are already going to take up the hidden front panel compartment


I'm assuming you're talking about Noctua's? Have you seen their new more visually "pleasant" color scheme?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> Perhaps... But when air cooled, my system did meet my expectations. And as long as the pump stays this quiet during low loads everything will be fine. Although I do plan on basically enclosing the thing in noise dampening foam. The water flow should take care of cooling the pump, shouldn't it?
> 
> I just hope the Be quiet Pure Wings I ordered actually are appropriately quiet. I don't want to resort to the beige-brown alternative, the ones I do have are already going to take up the hidden front panel compartment


As long as you keep the rpm of the fans underneath 900 rpm your fans will be quiet-ish/silent-ish (I like to game with my loudspeakers, not wearing headphones), my Cooltek 140 mm fans is putting out 14 dB(A) and I consider that quiet.

As of the D5, I currently have 2x Swiftech MCP655's running in two EK-D5 X-Res systems at speed "4" and I cannot say I really hear anything of them. If you want everything silent I suggest you only cool the most important parts (CPU, GPU) and keep your D5 pumps to "2" and 600-700 rpm fans, working like a charm!







Cool and quiet.


----------



## Yey09

*My current loop*




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Very soon I'll be adding a bay reservoir, vga block and a ddc-3.2 pump w/ mod top


----------



## SuDDi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> As long as you keep the rpm of the fans underneath 900 rpm your fans will be quiet-ish/silent-ish (I like to game with my loudspeakers, not wearing headphones), my Cooltek 140 mm fans is putting out 14 dB(A) and I consider that quiet.
> 
> As of the D5, I currently have 2x Swiftech MCP655's running in two EK-D5 X-Res systems at speed "4" and I cannot say I really hear anything of them. If you want everything silent I suggest you only cool the most important parts (CPU, GPU) and *keep your D5 pumps to "2"* and 600-700 rpm fans, working like a charm!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool and quiet.


Unfortunately setting the pump in the area of speed 2 is the loudest possible setting my pump has. Considerably more so than full effect.

The fan situation isn't so hard to manage. But I think switching to the PWM version of the pump will be enough. It seems like it has a lower min speed than the vario, and as long as the system is quiet when just doing web browsing and the like; I'll be happy. During load it has my permission to make a moderate amount of noise.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> hmm, the price drops on 780ti classifieds really is making me want to pick up 2 of them and watercool.


Unless they're significantly cheaper than a GTX 980 I wouldn't bother. Same price doesn't cut it in my book.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> *My current loop*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very soon I'll be adding a bay reservoir, vga block and a ddc-3.2 pump w/ mod top


What's up with that T fitting coming off the pump? Where's that go?


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What's up with that T fitting coming off the pump? Where's that go?


That's where I fill my loop, I plugged the pump reservoir cap with a led plug.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> Unfortunately setting the pump in the area of speed 2 is the loudest possible setting my pump has. Considerably more so than full effect.
> 
> The fan situation isn't so hard to manage. But I think switching to the PWM version of the pump will be enough. It seems like it has a lower min speed than the vario, and as long as the system is quiet when just doing web browsing and the like; I'll be happy. During load it has my permission to make a moderate amount of noise.


I am on the same quest, but let me explain my findings, some of which I see you've noticed already.

1. Not all fans of a feather whirr together. Some exact same fans can have different air OR motor noises... And at near silent you WILL be hearing some motor noise.

2. A constant sound will fade into the background. An adjustable sound (pwm) will almost always stick out in a near silent environment because you notice the sounds changing.

3. my xspc bay res/pump was AUDIBLE at all levels of operation. my ek d5 runs SILENT on setting 3 or under and NEAR SILENT on 4 or 5.

4. make sure your PSU has a zero fan mode. In all my builds the PSU fan was by far the loudest component and I never realized it until replacing that 5 year old PSU. (I'm in love with this evga p2 1000)

5. Case fan filters can rattle and vibrate worse than the case itself sometimes. I've found my case makes weird vibrating sounds when using the included magnetic/slider fan filters (phantom 630). I took them out for now and will probably replace with screw in filters or custom make filters (duct tape filter mesh to the bottom intake area lol)

Hope any of this helps!


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> That's where I fill my loop, I plugged the pump reservoir cap with a led plug.


I'd think you'd want to fill from the highest point, not the lowest..

...and I might be going crazy, but I only see one tubing route going to or coming from the illuminated pump/res


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> I'd think you'd want to fill from the highest point, not the lowest..
> 
> ...and I might be going crazy, but I only see one tubing route going to or coming from the illuminated pump/res


The tube from the T is going to the upper/front(5.25 bay)of the pc, it has an end cap. That's where I fill the loop for bleeding.

Both of the in/out port of the pump is on the front, have there a straight for in and 90° fittings for out.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> The tube from the T is going to the upper/front(5.25 bay)of the pc, it has an end cap. That's where I fill the loop for bleeding.
> 
> Both of the in/out port of the pump is on the front, have there a straight for in and 90° fittings for out.


I gotcha.. Don't you think the inside would have a cleaner look if you had, for instance, put the T affixed to the radiator/tubing outside the case for easy and safe filling? When the fill port is at the top the filling process is quicker too. But either way you're about to get a bay res/pump which will put the fill up there anyways


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> I gotcha.. Don't you think the inside would have a cleaner look if you had, for instance, put the T affixed to the radiator/tubing outside the case for easy and safe filling? When the fill port is at the top the filling process is quicker too. But either way you're about to get a bay res/pump which will put the fill up there anyways


The case has a side window, I can see thru that the amount of water in the tube if ever it goes down and need to refilled.

I already have some of the items, still waiting for the VGA block.


----------



## iBored

HORROR!!!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> HORROR!!!


I feel ya bro


----------



## capreppy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> HORROR!!!


I am about to start my leak testing so I definitely feel ya


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> HORROR!!!


Is it those new Bitspower Enhance fittings that is leaking or did you not measure the tubing right? One O-ring for push-fittings sound like a fail to me, but many people are using them and they seem to be tight. What is your thought on that?


----------



## SuDDi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> I am on the same quest, but let me explain my findings, some of which I see you've noticed already.
> 
> 1. Not all fans of a feather whirr together. Some exact same fans can have different air OR motor noises... And at near silent you WILL be hearing some motor noise.
> 
> 2. A constant sound will fade into the background. An adjustable sound (pwm) will almost always stick out in a near silent environment because you notice the sounds changing.
> 
> 3. my xspc bay res/pump was AUDIBLE at all levels of operation. my ek d5 runs SILENT on setting 3 or under and NEAR SILENT on 4 or 5.
> 
> 4. make sure your PSU has a zero fan mode. In all my builds the PSU fan was by far the loudest component and I never realized it until replacing that 5 year old PSU. (I'm in love with this evga g2 1000)
> 
> 5. Case fan filters can rattle and vibrate worse than the case itself sometimes. I've found my case makes weird vibrating sounds when using the included magnetic/slider fan filters (phantom 630). I took them out for now and will probably replace with screw in filters or custom make filters (duct tape filter mesh to the bottom intake area lol)
> 
> Hope any of this helps!


Thanks for the input. I got an EVGA P2 1000w running "eco mode" myself.

Regarding PWM I only really intend to find two specific RPM levels for the pump with a pleasant noise character, so that the PC can go flip to the higher one during gaming and the like.

I don't quite agree regarding fans though. Sure, noise wise, there can be differences of fans and it's important to separate noises created by the fan itself and those added due to its placement and case vibrations. Fans should really be tested one by one, unmounted and at different speeds.

But motor noise need not be audible. The only fans I have plugged in right now are a pair of noctua nh-d15's running at just over 300 rpm. I tried checking for motor noises. One fan I could detect a very soft ticking but only if I placed my ear with 15cm of the blades. The second fan had no motor noise I could pick out. If any person could tell if they were running or not, standing 1m away from them in a normal room; then they have far better hearing than I.

I will install some noise dampening foam in the case soon. Though I'm not sure if I will sacrifice the side panel or not. =/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> HORROR!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


At least you caught it before it did any damage. That's what leak testing is for, but put me solidly in the camp that says using air to leak test is much better than using water/coolant ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> [...] *I can not for the life of me, understand how guys can spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a hi end build, and then put it all at risk by filling it with water without knowing if it's going to leak big time or not.*
> 
> If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly this.
> 
> Air>Water for testing.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> [...] *I usually do an overnight air leakdown test* and save the mess of discovering coolant oozing out onto expensive hardware or having to drain to investigate.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> This.
> 
> Standard plumbing trick,hook up a compressor or air pump to the loop with a pressure gauge.
> Pump the loop up to 10 psi and leave it with the gauge connected.
> Any leak will cause pressure loss,leak testing with no fluids in sight.
> 
> I have detailed this earlier in the thread as my preferred test method
Click to expand...

IT Diva (Darlene) did a bit of a guide:
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480_20#post_21458126

And a similar one from B Negative:
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56240_20#post_21445206

After seeing repeated posts like those from Darlene and B Neg, I wound up doing something similar but simpler/cheaper than what either of them suggested.


Spoiler: Image







I just used an 1/4 NPT threaded Schrader air valve stem and a 30 PSI gauge, both of which I got off ebay, and fitted each of them into Koolance G 1/4" Male to NPT 1/4" Female adapters that I got from FCPU. That way the air valve and pressure gauge can be screwed into any available ports in my loop.

Total cost was about $25. Much better imho than putting down paper towels and crossing my fingers.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need to modify your expectation.


seconded
You have unrealistic goals.


----------



## SuDDi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> seconded
> You have unrealistic goals.


To be quite honest, I fail to why a system pulling sub-100w should need to produce any audible sound what so ever.

The D5 PWM version can go down to 1450 RPM compared to the 1800 of the vario. That and some improved vibration-dampening and a noise dampening enclosure should put any issue with the pump to rest. As for fans, I could simply get more nh-a14/15's as they can go down to 300RPM and they are the only fans I know for a fact to generally not have noticeable motor noise. Although I had hoped for something to avoid their infamous aesthetics. And while the redux-fans are an improvement they still look pretty bad and are almost as expensive here in Sweden.

If my laptop and smartphone can do web browsing without making a sound, so should my gaming rig! At least considering the space and budget I allow it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> To be quite honest, I fail to why a system pulling sub-100w should need to produce any audible sound what so ever.
> 
> The D5 PWM version can go down to 1450 RPM compared to the 1800 of the vario. That and some improved vibration-dampening and a noise dampening enclosure should put any issue with the pump to rest. As for fans, I could simply get more nh-a14/15's as they can go down to 300RPM and they are the only fans I know for a fact to generally not have noticeable motor noise. Although I had hoped for something to avoid their infamous aesthetics. And while the redux-fans are an improvement they still look pretty bad and are almost as expensive here in Sweden.
> 
> If my laptop and smartphone can do web browsing without making a sound, so should my gaming rig! At least considering the space and budget I allow it


d5 pwm can go way below that. I am able to go from ~800 rpm to ~4800 rpm using the Aquaero 5 lt pwm fan header. More on that subject here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2050#post_22862988


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> seconded
> You have unrealistic goals.
> 
> 
> 
> To be quite honest, I fail to why a system pulling sub-100w should need to produce any audible sound what so ever.
> 
> The D5 PWM version can go down to 1450 RPM compared to the 1800 of the vario. That and some improved vibration-dampening and a noise dampening enclosure should put any issue with the pump to rest. As for fans, I could simply get more nh-a14/15's as they can go down to 300RPM and they are the only fans I know for a fact to generally not have noticeable motor noise. Although I had hoped for something to avoid their infamous aesthetics. And while the redux-fans are an improvement they still look pretty bad and are almost as expensive here in Sweden.
> 
> If my laptop and smartphone can do web browsing without making a sound, so should my gaming rig! At least considering the space and budget I allow it
Click to expand...

Except your phone and laptop are not watercooled with 120mm fans.....

If it is pulling such low wattage then why are you watercooling it?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Modded the Inner plate of the EVGA 780 FTW so it could mount it and the backplate i bought using the padding for the vrms and ram


----------



## SuDDi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Except your phone and laptop are not watercooled with 120mm fans.....
> 
> If it is pulling such low wattage then why are you watercooling it?


'
Because it's puling alot more when it has some degree of load on it.

Right now I have only two fans connected running 300RPM, and the D5 running at it's lowest speed. It is virtually undetectable and temperatures of both the CPU and GPU are in the 30°C range.
I really appreciate that silence, and I fail to see any benefit in having the fans/pump run faster when it is not needed.

Sure my noise standards do limit component choices at times, but that is a trade I'll gladly make.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> d5 pwm can go way below that. I am able to go from ~800 rpm to ~4800 rpm using the Aquaero 5 lt pwm fan header. More on that subject here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2050#post_22862988


Interesting, I'll look into that.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Is it those new Bitspower Enhance fittings that is leaking or did you not measure the tubing right? One O-ring for push-fittings sound like a fail to me, but many people are using them and they seem to be tight. What is your thought on that?


It's only the C48 multi-links that have one. The Enhance fittings have two O-rings. This goes for the angled ones as well. The angled enhance ones are a bit tricky to spot because their collars are skinny, which suggest they might have only one O-ring on each end, but if you screw off the collars you can see the second O-ring inside the end with the thread.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

this isnt a perfect world things just dont work great when you start undervolting too drastically

As near as i can tell.

personally if a computer gets to quiet i start to worry if my pc is dead...

i dunno sounds a lil fun though the more i think about it. Remember how quiet game consoles were back in the day? When they had cartridges?

My reasoning that i say your goal is unrealistic is i have a 120v e3 pump that never goes off so the loop warms up a bit with no fans, i had been testing it and it was generating heat with 2 fans even (uncontrolled). System has been off for 3 days and res temp is +12f over ambient just from pump

Uh uh heat uh finds a way


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Test tray is cut and it fits like a glove.

Now for the Acrylic and final stainless sandwich trays.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> HORROR!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


teh Feels


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Test tray is cut and it fits like a glove.
> 
> Now for the Acrylic and final stainless sandwich trays.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Test tray is cut and it fits like a glove.
> 
> Now for the Acrylic and final stainless sandwich trays.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


seeing the GPUs blocks there along with the MIPS block I am happy you took the route of not painting the MIPS block. The go very well together


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> seeing the GPUs blocks there along with the MIPS block I am happy you took the route of not painting the MIPS block. The go very well together


I think the marble finish on the acrylic on the MiPs block would look good as well


----------



## LeSwede

Only did CPU as there is no water block for the HD 7770 D:


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> Thanks for the input. I got an EVGA P2 1000w running "eco mode" myself.
> 
> Regarding PWM I only really intend to find two specific RPM levels for the pump with a pleasant noise character, so that the PC can go flip to the higher one during gaming and the like.
> 
> I don't quite agree regarding fans though. Sure, noise wise, there can be differences of fans and it's important to separate noises created by the fan itself and those added due to its placement and case vibrations. Fans should really be tested one by one, unmounted and at different speeds.
> 
> But motor noise need not be audible. The only fans I have plugged in right now are a pair of noctua nh-d15's running at just over 300 rpm. I tried checking for motor noises. One fan I could detect a very soft ticking but only if I placed my ear with 15cm of the blades. The second fan had no motor noise I could pick out. If any person could tell if they were running or not, standing 1m away from them in a normal room; then they have far better hearing than I.
> 
> I will install some noise dampening foam in the case soon. Though I'm not sure if I will sacrifice the side panel or not. =/


At 300rpm I d hope they don't make much sound.. That's crazyyy low. My sp120's at 800 make a barley noticeable but oddly soothing hum haha


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> You mean you got the g2? Amazon actually sent me a p2 by mistake and it def did not have an Eco mode
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and at 300rpm I d hope they don't make much sound.. That's crazyyy low. My sp120's at 800 make a barley noticeable but oddly soothing hum haha


P2 has the ecomode, G2 (Other than 750/850) doesn't.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> P2 has the ecomode, G2 (Other than 750/850) doesn't.


Yea I noticed I was writing them backwards again after posting lol.. I edited both posts to reflect.. I have the p2 and amazon accidentally sent me a g2


----------



## nismoskyline

you guys are weak. I thrive from the hurricane noise my radeon 6990 makes, along with my 2k rpm fans.

plebs.

(i kid, i can't wait to finish my new build so i can have variable fans and no more hurricane gpu)


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> you guys are weak. I thrive from the hurricane noise my radeon 6990 makes, along with my 2k rpm fans.
> 
> plebs.
> 
> (i kid, i can't wait to finish my new build so i can have variable fans and no more hurricane gpu)


Lol thrive


----------



## Gabrielzm

Last parts arrived. Some shots of the progress:


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Last parts arrived. Some shots of the progress:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Buildlog?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Buildlog?


Soon. Will post here when goes live.


----------



## CaliLife17

Do you guys/girls think 2x D5 vario pumps (EK dual pump top) will be able to power through 3x 480, 1x 360, and 1x 240 GTX namesis Rads, 2 EK GPU blocks, and 1 EK Supremacy Evo CPU Block?

Planning out my STH10 CaseLabs build (ordering case tonight) and seeing if the pumps will be able to handle it. Will be using 1/2 x 3/4 tubing.

Also do you guys/girls even think it is worth it to add the 240 Radiator? I'm up in the air on it and wether it is even worth it to deal with the 240, on top of all the other rads. Thoughts?

thanks!


----------



## Kimir

I have a single D5 for 2x480 UT60, 360 monsta, 240 UT60, CPU, GPUs and cpu vrm block (and tons of quick connect) and I'm fine, with two you are good.








I'd says populate all of the rad space you can, unless you want to use that space for something else. You need that with the 5960x!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I have a single D5 for 2x480 UT60, 360 monsta, 240 UT60, CPU, GPUs and cpu vrm block (and tons of quick connect) and I'm fine, with two you are good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd says populate all of the rad space you can, unless you want to use that space for something else. You need that with the 5960x!


Can You link me to those disconnects?? I think I am in love


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can You link me to those disconnects?? I think I am in love


Here they are: Koolance Quick Disconnect Couplings
I have the QD3, in different models.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

+ Rep From me


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> HORROR!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Man that must suck. As much as I like fittings, I think that it's a bit redundant to put them in any hardline setup that is as simplistic as the one you have. I think I'd much rather save the $$ and bend the tubing to the angle I need and remove the middle man as much as possible. Granted some cases require a fitting in the middle somewhere on a long run, but that is what I would consider an unavoidable necessity.
















One which I will hopefully avoid with my redo. My sincerest sympathies to you for your issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Last parts arrived. Some shots of the progress:


Very very nice









Which CaseLabs case is that, I know it's reversed but what case is it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> HORROR!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man that must suck. As much as I like fittings, I think that it's a bit redundant to put them in any hardline setup that is as simplistic as the one you have. I think I'd much rather save the $$ and bend the tubing to the angle I need and remove the middle man as much as possible. Granted some cases require a fitting in the middle somewhere on a long run, but that is what I would consider an unavoidable necessity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One which I will hopefully avoid with my redo. My sincerest sympathies to you for your issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Sometimes you need fittings to get the correct offset,acrylic will only bend so far..
If it means a handful of fittings to get good lines then so be it.
Using fittings for everything is fail tho.

iBored,look at the orings,there is a solid chance they been marked or damaged.


----------



## iBored

@Ceadderman Totally understand what you mean. But I just prefer the look of shiny fittings









@B NEGATIVE I think so too. Problem is, I don't have another one of those 90deg EML fittings.

Still waiting for PPC's halloween discount. hopefully the leak stays contained till then.
Sometimes you don't realize it, but your order slowly creeps to 4 digits


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @Ceadderman Totally understand what you mean. But I just prefer the look of shiny fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @B NEGATIVE I think so too. Problem is, I don't have another one of those 90deg EML fittings.
> 
> Still waiting for PPC's halloween discount. hopefully the leak stays contained till then.
> Sometimes you don't realize it, but your order slowly creeps to 4 digits


Just buy the o-rings,no need for a new fitting.
Derick may even have spares,PM him.


----------



## royce5950




----------



## royce5950

I just watercool but this looks quite interesting and this 780 plays BF4 amazingly.


----------



## SinatraFan

that condensation can't be a good thing


----------



## BradleyW

Why is the memory defrosted?


----------



## VSG

It's for sub zero cooling/benching. Memory being too cold is not a good thing. Not sure why it was in here at all to be honest.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's for sub zero cooling/benching. Memory being too cold is not a good thing. Not sure why it was in here at all to be honest.


Thanks, I did not know this.


----------



## VSG

Don't mention it.

In other news, more rads from Aquacomputer: http://www.techpowerup.com/206121/aqua-computer-also-announces-airplex-radical-2-series-radiators.html
Quote:


> The airplex radical is Aqua Computers newest addition to its radiator line. The new radiator series which is manufactured in Germany is based on the airplex modularity system but this time reduced to the essentials to combine a great performance and workmanship with an attractive price. Like its big brother the airplex radical series is produced without any soldered joints which means the radiator comes without any residues of tin. Only Delrin, stainless steel and copper make contact to the cooling fluid - also when using variants with aluminum fins.
> 
> To allow a perfect installation Aqua Computer introduces a new protected mounting system which is based on threaded sleeves made of nickel plated brass. The threaded sleeves are pluggable and extend into the mounting holes of the fans so that they almost slip into the correct position by themselves. Anyone who has mounted a radiator before knows the struggle to align the radiator with the fans and screws. This system also extends the threads which reduces the risk of damaging the radiator with too long screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When mounting the radiator without fans the threaded sleeves can be used upside down so the radiator can be installed directly without leaving a gap between itself an the computer case for example. Just in case a threaded sleeve got damaged it can be easily exchanged with a new one.
> 
> The airplex radical 2/360 is on sale as of now. Further sizes will follow step by step over the next weeks. Besides the radical 2 series with two tubing rows Aqua Computer will also offer a thicker and more powerful radical 4 series with four tubing rows. Both variants are available with aluminum or coppers fins and will cover the common sizes from 120 to 480 mm.
> 
> The dimensions of the airplex radical are very compact. The airplex radical 2/360 is exactly 40 mm thick, 140 mm wide and 400 mm long. The outer frames on the side and the closing part are made of stainless steel. The side frames feature a logo imprint and the closing part is colored dark chromatic to add an accent to the overall look.
> 
> Even though the airplex radical series uses high quality materials and is produced in Germany the prices are very attractive. The airplex radical 2/360 with aluminum fins is available for 74,90 Euro while the copper variant costs 89,90 Euro. Further prices for other sizes are TBA.


Look stunning as with the other Aquacomputer radiators. I am interested to see how that fan mounting system works out.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Very very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which CaseLabs case is that, I know it's reversed but what case is it?


SMA8 reverse







Thks







Yesterday power up to test components on the bench before going in to the trouble of painting and putting ram blocks. Pictures and build log to follow soon.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Why
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I have a single D5 for 2x480 UT60, 360 monsta, 240 UT60, CPU, GPUs and cpu vrm block (and tons of quick connect) and I'm fine, with two you are good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd says populate all of the rad space you can, unless you want to use that space for something else. You need that with the 5960x!


why do you guys need so many radiators? A 360 and 480 is more than enough for anything


----------



## VSG

Because we can?

It depends a lot on what you are looking for. A 5950x and 2-3 Classifieds on water can pull close to 2 kW of power. To get reasonable temps, you need more rad space than most people.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah but I still don't see how you'd need more than a thick 480 and a thick 360.

my single 480 rad can eat 2.2kw of heatload(based on the box it came in that says the 480GTX model does 2200W)
and the 360 does 1.8kw

so you need 8kw of heat dispersion for what?

my point is a good 480 should probably be able to take care of everything., so throwing the 360 on is relatively overkill if nt just good Ol' breathing room.

but 2 480s a 360 and a 240? I just can't see a reason for


----------



## VSG

That 2.2 and 1.8 kW kW you say is at extremely unrealistic conditions, I wouldn't use such numbers (everyone does this) to dictate what to use. If you are happy with those two rads then great, but I have already seen improvements from going to dual 480s to triple 480s (and now even more) when benching and even at idle since I can keep fans spinning at lower speeds.

For most people, a single 480 is plenty enough for CPU + 1-2 GPUs. But not all, especially not on OCN.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah but I still don't see how you'd need more than a thick 480 and a thick 360.
> 
> my single 480 rad can eat 2.2kw of heatload(based on the box it came in that says the 480GTX model does 2200W)
> and the 360 does 1.8kw
> 
> so you need 8kw of heat dispersion for what?
> 
> my point is a good 480 should probably be able to take care of everything., so throwing the 360 on is relatively overkill if nt just good Ol' breathing room.
> 
> but 2 480s a 360 and a 240? I just can't see a reason for


This is OCN. There is no such thing as overkill.


----------



## lowfat

An SR1 560 isn't even enough for just a 780Ti and a 4770K. At least not if I want to run the fans on low. That isn't even a lot of heat. The entire rig pulls under 500w from the wall under full load.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

no crap a 480 won't do every system out there, especially some of the multigpu setups, I am just saying at most you would need one more rad. not freaking2 or 3 more

and I know those are extremely unrealistic numbers, they were put on the side of a box (marketing)

I am just saying that isn't extra rads like that just sort of ridiculously overkill?

I mean at the price of 3 480s and fans its well into 1/2HP chiller territory

like see what I mean?

atleast start throwing peltiers or something on there


----------



## VSG

Except that with chillers (which aren't great at handling a ton of heat unless you go big) and peltiers you get into a lot more power draw and also noise.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

but you get negative temps vs ambient at best

and at the number of fans you need to run 3 480 rads I think power draw and fan cost would start to make up for the difference

see I hear all this overclockers talk and then you all start saying a system is noisy.

I have trouble having faith in you guys when you are so hung up on a bit of noise

if a system isn't noisy how are you supposed to tell if its working?

anyways I guess I am done.

Once you guys start saying "I have 3 480 rads because one with fans at full power was too noisy" is about the time I am done.

no such thing as overkill but if you can't hear a pin drop over your fans you don't want it


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> but you get negative temps vs ambient at best
> 
> and at the number of fans you need to run 3 480 rads I think power draw and fan cost would start to make up for the difference


You also get to deal with all the joys of condensation. Power draw with fans is nowhere near that of big chillers and peltier units. Capital cost definitely is a consideration, but I would argue you are getting into big custom loops knowing it is expensive. Also, running cost with rads is a lot lower than chillers/peltiers.

Whatever I say is likely not going to convince you, if people want to get more rads after having made a conscious decision to do so and it doesn't affect you why not let them?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well all this talk of needing 4 giant radiators gets me worried when I only have a max of 2 per beasty system

I mean my current build with cpu and 4 gpus is gonna be hot with a 5960x chip I guess

now you guys got me worried that I need to start making radiator stands and buying more radiators and needing like 40 fans now instead..

if you are willing to set up all those rads is it that hard to setup for a bit of condensation?

no but I totally get what you are saying about condensation and subambient and noise loads and power draws

I had a build planned that involved cannibalizing a 12kBTU AC unit and making a chilly box.

power costs so much its really really unrealistic to plan on cooling anything, like what any of us use, for more than a few hours at a time.


----------



## VSG

All I can say is stick to your guts and don't make decisions based on what others are doing. Just because I have a case where I can fit in 6 560s and 10-12 480s simultaneously doesn't mean I will. But I can if I want to and that's the only point I was trying to make.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah but I still don't see how you'd need more than a thick 480 and a thick 360.
> 
> my single 480 rad can eat 2.2kw of heatload(based on the box it came in that says the 480GTX model does 2200W)
> and the 360 does 1.8kw
> 
> so you need 8kw of heat dispersion for what?
> 
> my point is a good 480 should probably be able to take care of everything., so throwing the 360 on is relatively overkill if nt just good Ol' breathing room.
> 
> but 2 480s a 360 and a 240? I just can't see a reason for


Those numbers are highly unrealistic.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah but I still don't see how you'd need more than a thick 480 and a thick 360.
> 
> my single 480 rad can eat 2.2kw of heatload(based on the box it came in that says the 480GTX model does 2200W)
> and the 360 does 1.8kw
> 
> so you need 8kw of heat dispersion for what?
> 
> my point is a good 480 should probably be able to take care of everything., so throwing the 360 on is relatively overkill if nt just good Ol' breathing room.
> 
> but 2 480s a 360 and a 240? I just can't see a reason for


More rad face means lower fan speeds,the numbers you are quoting are for 2000+ fans at full speed,no good for a quiet rig.
I would rather have,say,a pair of 360's over a pair of 240's purely for the quiet.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More rad face means lower fan speeds,the numbers you are quoting are for 2000+ fans at full speed,no good for a quiet rig.
> I would rather have,say,a pair of 360's over a pair of 240's purely for the quiet.


Those numbers are also at very high liquid temps as well I bet. For my quad rad tests I am fixing 1 kW draw from the PSU as a constant system load (everything other than RAM, fans, pump and drives watercooled) which I think is much more realistic for a quad rad.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Those numbers are highly unrealistic.


I know they are unreaqlistic. I said they were unrealistic.
It was marketing Bull on the side of my nemesis GTX's box

ask hwlabs if you want to know what parameters they used for testing. crap.

when I get down to real testing Ill have temp sensors after every component. and probably just bench my 4930k at 5ghz or 4.8 or 4.9

if I need more I will throw my 780ti classy (or another cpu I guess) into the mix

other than tht I'd rather focus n high flow than temps... I could stay cool on an h100 I can't imagine having any issues from any of my thick 360+ rads


----------



## CaliLife17

How many rads also depends on what case you are using and how big of case you are willing to use. I am moving over to a STH10, so I now have much more rad space than my 900d. It would almost be a disservice to not fit a bunch of Rads in there. Would be funny with only 2 rads.

I am also going to I think sell of my GTX nemesis and go with XSPC Rads. Having the 2 extra ports i think will help with my build in terms of tubing, and with VSG's prelim results of XSPC looking to be best at low-mid RPM fan range, now is the best time to make the switch.

Side Note: What is the general thought on Serial vs Parrellel for EK GPU terminal blocks?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Side Note: What is the general thought on Serial vs Parrellel for EK GPU terminal blocks?


I've run both Series and Parallel on my GTX 470 Sli and saw no difference in temps.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Those numbers are highly unrealistic.
> 
> 
> 
> I know they are unreaqlistic. I said they were unrealistic.
> *It was marketing Bull on the side of my nemesis GTX's box*
> 
> ask hwlabs if you want to know what parameters they used for testing. crap.
> 
> when I get down to real testing Ill have temp sensors after every component. and probably just bench my 4930k at 5ghz or 4.8 or 4.9
> 
> if I need more I will throw my 780ti classy (or another cpu I guess) into the mix
> 
> other than tht I'd rather focus n high flow than temps... I could stay cool on an h100 I can't imagine having any issues from any of my thick 360+ rads
Click to expand...

Its not bull,they really will shift that amount of heat,however,no metrics were supplied so its a meaningless statistic. No coolant temps were provided and no Airflow rating were supplied.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More rad face means lower fan speeds,the numbers you are quoting are for 2000+ fans at full speed,no good for a quiet rig.
> I would rather have,say,a pair of 360's over a pair of 240's purely for the quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> *Those numbers are also at very high liquid temps as well I bet.* For my quad rad tests I am fixing 1 kW draw from the PSU as a constant system load (everything other than RAM, fans, pump and drives watercooled) which I think is much more realistic for a quad rad.
Click to expand...

You can bet your bottom dollar on that,the higher the delta,the higher the wattage can be removed as efficiency increases massively.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> How many rads also depends on what case you are using and how big of case you are willing to use. I am moving over to a STH10, so I now have much more rad space than my 900d. It would almost be a disservice to not fit a bunch of Rads in there. Would be funny with only 2 rads.
> 
> I am also going to I think sell of my GTX nemesis and go with XSPC Rads. Having the 2 extra ports i think will help with my build in terms of tubing, and with VSG's prelim results of XSPC looking to be best at low-mid RPM fan range, now is the best time to make the switch.
> 
> Side Note: What is the general thought on Serial vs Parrellel for EK GPU terminal blocks?


PM incoming.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> isn't extra rads like that just sort of ridiculously overkill?


Definitely, but to each is own. I mean why do people have 210 million watches, 25 million Nikes, 37.3 million lenses for their cameras, or 50 millions of add ons on their cars? (seriously exaggerated I know







) Its what they like.









Now if someone goes suggesting you need that much rad space to adequately cool your system then you might be able to call them out on it. In the end its personal preference as to how you want to build your system and generally goes by a couple of factors like looks, quietness, and of course a little bit of e-peen.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Side Note: What is the general thought on Serial vs Parrellel for EK GPU terminal blocks?


I'm torn by this at the moment. Aesthetics> performance (if any) or performance>Aesthetics.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've run both Series and Parallel on my GTX 470 Sli and saw no difference in temps.


^^This. Same here. Have my dual titan setup in both ways in the Enthoo Primo build and saw no difference in temps. The major difference is in water flow since parallel would help with that even though flow inside the cards become slower.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Side Note: What is the general thought on Serial vs Parrellel for EK GPU terminal blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm torn by this at the moment. Aesthetics> performance (if any) or performance>Aesthetics.
Click to expand...

It's not usually a choice between performance or aesthetics, it's more appropriately a choice on aesthetics alone - whichever looks better to you. Unless you have a problem with low flow to start with there shouldn't really be much if any noticeable difference in performance either way with series or parallel GPUs.

FWIW, Swiftech published a study and found the differences between running GPUs in series vs parallel is "nominal", and at least in their case they managed to get a fraction of a degree benefit to running GPUs in parallel vs in series.

http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf *(PDF)*


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's not usually a choice between performance or aesthetics, it's more appropriately a choice on aesthetics alone - whichever looks better to you. Unless you have a problem with low flow to start with there shouldn't really be much if any noticeable difference in performance either way with series or parallel GPUs.
> 
> FWIW, Swiftech published a study and found the differences between running GPUs in series vs parallel is "nominal", and at least in their case they managed to get a fraction of a degree benefit to running GPUs in parallel vs in series.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf *(PDF)*


Thank you for that.









Previous reading in threads normally point to or is mentioned that parallel seems to stabilize temperatures between gpus while serial will see about a degree of temp increase between cards when tubed in serial.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank you for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previous reading in threads normally point to or is mentioned that parallel seems to stabilize temperatures between gpus while serial will see about a degree of temp increase between cards when tubed in serial.


I have seen the other way around too in tri-sli setups, I mean, larger differences on the third parallel card (5-10 C). In my serial loop (I opted for that) I always see a 1-2 C difference in gpu core between the cards. To me that is negligible. It is a aesthetic decision unless you have very limited flow (on one hand) or if you want your flow quite low to keep noise under control (on the other hand). On the former I would go parallel while on the latter I would go serial. Remember, in parallel flow inside the cards are even lower that the total flow and if you start going for low pump power to keep noise under control and the overall flow is already reduced it would be even more so inside the cards.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't mention it.
> 
> In other news, more rads from Aquacomputer: http://www.techpowerup.com/206121/aqua-computer-also-announces-airplex-radical-2-series-radiators.html
> Look stunning as with the other Aquacomputer radiators. I am interested to see how that fan mounting system works out.


I can tell/show you next week ^^ I will get one for an RoundUp


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> I can tell/show you next week ^^ I will get one for an RoundUp


A radiator roundup? If so, that's funny because I have one in the making also.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> I can tell/show you next week ^^ I will get one for an RoundUp


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A radiator roundup? If so, that's funny because I have one in the making also.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I know they are unreaqlistic. *I said they were unrealistic.
> *It was marketing Bull on the side of my nemesis GTX's box
> 
> ask hwlabs if you want to know what parameters they used for testing. crap.
> 
> when I get down to real testing Ill have temp sensors after every component. and probably just bench my 4930k at 5ghz or 4.8 or 4.9
> 
> if I need more I will throw my 780ti classy (or another cpu I guess) into the mix
> 
> other than tht I'd rather focus n high flow than temps... I could stay cool on an h100 I can't imagine having any issues from any of my thick 360+ rads


My apologies. I did not see that.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A radiator roundup? If so, that's funny because I have one in the making also.


Jep. But my one is in German Language ^^


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Jep. But my one is in German Language ^^


Google translate makes reading German a lot of fun, looking forward to it


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Google translate makes reading German a lot of fun, looking forward to it


Yes of course ^^ Sometimes its funny ^^

I tell you when it's finished ^^ At the moment about 12 Radiators...

(and sorry for my bad English ^^)


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Jep. But my one is in German Language ^^


Thank the Lord for Google Translate.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I have seen the other way around too in tri-sli setups, I mean, larger differences on the third parallel card (5-10 C). In my serial loop (I opted for that) I always see a 1-2 C difference in gpu core between the cards. To me that is negligible. It is a aesthetic decision unless you have very limited flow (on one hand) or if you want your flow quite low to keep noise under control (on the other hand). On the former I would go parallel while on the latter I would go serial. Remember, in parallel flow inside the cards are even lower that the total flow and if you start going for low pump power to keep noise under control and the overall flow is already reduced it would be even more so inside the cards.


Thank you as well. This being the case then I will probably go with serial and something that is aesthetically pleasing as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New fans to try!


----------



## VSG

Always been curious about those fans, I love the packaging and looks but no idea how they perform.


----------



## psycho84

I got this one's and i'm very exited









The RPM Range is incredible ! From 180-2000RPM ^^


----------



## Wihglah

So - anyone know what the "O" ring size is for Bitspower C47's and Enhance multilink?

(I've torn one of each)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> So - anyone know what the "O" ring size is for Bitspower C47's and Enhance multilink?
> 
> (I've torn one of each)


If you mean the internal rings ( not the one on the base) then they use the standard multilink O-rings. They come in packs of ten.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24789/ex-tub-3196/Bitspower_Multi_Link_Black_O-Ring_-_10_Pack_BP-ML-O10-BK.html?tl=g30c407s1052


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you mean the internal rings ( not the one on the base) then they use the standard multilink O-rings. They come in packs of ten.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24789/ex-tub-3196/Bitspower_Multi_Link_Black_O-Ring_-_10_Pack_BP-ML-O10-BK.html?tl=g30c407s1052


Can't find them for sale in the UK - need the official size.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I am cmpiling a list of fans on newegg to ask about...

like what are these?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA59T1S56856

and wow look at these stats http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835119127

honestly about a few days off of doing a fan roundup.

for all these sub 15$ wierdo fans

I almost got the 3000RPM version of those fans then I saw that REAL delta fans were cheaper


----------



## VSG

CFM is taking into consideration a duct through which the airflow is being measured. So without data on the duct type, size, how far the anemometer was etc they are all useless. I am sure the air cooling forum guys will be able to help more. Go with the reliable and known unless a good fan roundup shows otherwise.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I am cmpiling a list of fans on newegg to ask about...
> 
> like what are these?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA59T1S56856
> 
> and wow look at these stats http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835119127
> 
> honestly about a few days off of doing a fan roundup.
> 
> for all these sub 15$ wierdo fans
> 
> I almost got the 3000RPM version of those fans then I saw that REAL delta fans were cheaper


Look like Kama flow rebrands to me....generic as it gets....


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For most people, a single 480 is plenty enough for CPU + 1-2 GPUs. But not all, especially not on OCN.


Your mention of benching (looks like I took it oit of the quote, whoops) ia the same reason why the benching rig I'm looking at building will have dual360's plus a 240. Aesthetics (it's symmetrical, more or less) in appearance plus if I put dual 780 Classifieds (or higher/hotter cards) it shoild be able to handle the load a lot better than just a single 480.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> I got this one's and i'm very exited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The RPM Range is incredible ! From 180-2000RPM ^^


I suddenly have this urge to buy a z97 sabertooth. A Noctua fan that had lovely colours?


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Always been curious about those fans, I love the packaging and looks but no idea how they perform.


I own a nice little pile of them. I haven't had time to test them out on a radiator, but I felt they pushed more air than than my eLoop B12-1s at low RPMs. More importantly for me, the acoustics are the best of any 1500RPM fan I've owned. When I get the setup I'll make a thread with performance numbers at low RPMs and comparisons with various other slow speed 120mm fans I have.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Hello everyone, I need some help.

Trying to set up a dual loop so I can split my CPU and Motherboard from my GPUS.

First issue I'm having is finding the right dual D5 top from frozenCPU. I found one from Bitspower, but it says it grabs the two pumps and puts them in "series". Not sure what they mean by that, but looks like it grabs the 2 pumps and just make it into a stronger single pump. If that is the case then its not what I'm looking for since I want dual loops. Unless I'm not understanding the descriptoion and it does in fact split the pumps.

Here is the link:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11252/ex-pmp-100/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Dual_D5_Mod_Top_-_POM_Version_BP-2D5TOPP-BK.html

Could someone point me in the right direction for dual D5 pump tops, that can have tube reservoirs mounted into them?


----------



## Wolfsbora

You're right, that is only for a single loop, it is mainly for redundancy and less pressure drops but no increased power. I'm not at all an expert but I have not seen a dual loop pump top. Is there a way that you could mount the pumps independently?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You're right, that is only for a single loop, it is mainly for redundancy and less pressure drops but no increased power. I'm not at all an expert but I have not seen a dual loop pump top. Is there a way that you could mount the pumps independently?


yeah, I can't seem to find one. Might just have the 2 pumps mounted independetly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @Ceadderman Totally understand what you mean. But I just prefer the look of shiny fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @B NEGATIVE I think so too. Problem is, I don't have another one of those 90deg EML fittings.
> 
> Still waiting for PPC's halloween discount. hopefully the leak stays contained till then.
> Sometimes you don't realize it, but your order *slowly creeps to 4 digits*


Don't I know it. I been away for awhile and decided to update the system since I *knew* I was gonna have to get new tubing anyway. Remembering that that milky stuff permeates most every brand of soft tubing and having liked the clean look of bent tubing, well you know what I am doing with my system. Going all out. Including a drain cutoff that allows me to remove every vestige of soft tubing to avoid issues/complications. Pretty much spent 3 bills on parts since I've been home and *still* am not up and running. But it will be worth it imho.











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah but I still don't see how you'd need more than a thick 480 and a thick 360.
> 
> my single 480 rad can eat 2.2kw of heatload(based on the box it came in that says the 480GTX model does 2200W)
> and the 360 does 1.8kw
> 
> so you need 8kw of heat dispersion for what?
> 
> my point is a good 480 should probably be able to take care of everything., so throwing the 360 on is relatively overkill if nt just good Ol' breathing room.
> 
> but 2 480s a 360 and a 240? I just can't see a reason for


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That 2.2 and 1.8 kW kW you say is at extremely unrealistic conditions, I wouldn't use such numbers (everyone does this) to dictate what to use. If you are happy with those two rads then great, but I have already seen improvements from going to dual 480s to triple 480s (and now even more) when benching and even at idle since I can keep fans spinning at lower speeds.
> 
> For most people, a single 480 is plenty enough for CPU + 1-2 GPUs. But not all, especially not on OCN.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> An SR1 560 isn't even enough for just a 780Ti and a 4770K. At least not if I want to run the fans on low. That isn't even a lot of heat. The entire rig pulls under 500w from the wall under full load.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah but I still don't see how you'd need more than a thick 480 and a thick 360.
> 
> my single 480 rad can eat 2.2kw of heatload(based on the box it came in that says the 480GTX model does 2200W)
> and the 360 does 1.8kw
> 
> so you need 8kw of heat dispersion for what?
> 
> my point is a good 480 should probably be able to take care of everything., so throwing the 360 on is relatively overkill if nt just good Ol' breathing room.
> 
> but 2 480s a 360 and a 240? I just can't see a reason for
> 
> 
> 
> Those numbers are highly unrealistic.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Side Note: What is the general thought on Serial vs Parrellel for EK GPU terminal blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm torn by this at the moment. Aesthetics> performance (if any) or performance>Aesthetics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's not usually a choice between performance or aesthetics, it's more appropriately a choice on aesthetics alone - whichever looks better to you. Unless you have a problem with low flow to start with there shouldn't really be much if any noticeable difference in performance either way with series or parallel GPUs.
> 
> FWIW, Swiftech published a study and found the differences between running GPUs in series vs parallel is "nominal", and at least in their case they managed to get a fraction of a degree benefit to running GPUs in parallel vs in series.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf *(PDF)*
Click to expand...





Coulda sworn this thread was an image based and not conversation based. I'm back now so bring on the water cooling image goodness!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Hello everyone, I need some help.
> 
> Trying to set up a dual loop so I can split my CPU and Motherboard from my GPUS.
> 
> First issue I'm having is finding the right dual D5 top from frozenCPU. I found one from Bitspower, but it says it grabs the two pumps and puts them in "series". Not sure what they mean by that, but looks like it grabs the 2 pumps and just make it into a stronger single pump. If that is the case then its not what I'm looking for since I want dual loops. Unless I'm not understanding the descriptoion and it does in fact split the pumps.
> 
> Here is the link:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11252/ex-pmp-100/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Dual_D5_Mod_Top_-_POM_Version_BP-2D5TOPP-BK.html
> 
> Could someone point me in the right direction for dual D5 pump tops, that can have tube reservoirs mounted into them?





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You're right, that is only for a single loop, it is mainly for redundancy and less pressure drops but no increased power. I'm not at all an expert but I have not seen a dual loop pump top. Is there a way that you could mount the pumps independently?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You're right, that is only for a single loop, it is mainly for redundancy and less pressure drops but no increased power. I'm not at all an expert but I have not seen a dual loop pump top. Is there a way that you could mount the pumps independently?
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, I can't seem to find one. Might just have the 2 pumps mounted independetly.
Click to expand...





Can't remember entirely it was so long ago it seems but I could swear that Bitspower had something along the lines of a dual pump parralel top. I know that it must have been that because some modders were connecting the two outs with fittings only.









Now they might have gone away from that but I am pretty sure you can still find something they made by using Google or contacting BP directly and asking them. Just a thought on this subject.

Bring on the jpegs!









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> yeah, I can't seem to find one. Might just have the 2 pumps mounted independetly.


I think you want this one: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/d5-series/ek-d5-dual-top-2-loops-white-acetal.html

Bistpower d5 tops are on the weak side. If I recall correctly perform worse than stock d5 top. But yeah, two single tops would do the trick too.


----------



## Lefik

New Koolance 980 block.





I love the look of their recent GPU blocks.


----------



## DreamMachine




----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think you want this one: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/d5-series/ek-d5-dual-top-2-loops-white-acetal.html
> 
> Bistpower d5 tops are on the weak side. If I recall correctly perform worse than stock d5 top. But yeah, two single tops would do the trick too.


Yes, that is exactly what I'm looking for. thanks for the help.









Looks like two single tops is what I'll be doing.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreamMachine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


That looks really good. Love the clear coolant and clean design.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

is it me, or did performance pcs messed up their web page?


----------



## DreamMachine

Thanks. I spent the past 3 months building it. I have some clear uv blue fluid in it. The dye fades after a few days. Only downside. 5 grand later. And i can play some really smooth kerbal! lol


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> is it me, or did performance pcs messed up their web page?


We launched a new website a few weeks ago. It's a bit rough still, but should be fully functioning. We're working on ironing out all of the bugs.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> We launched a new website a few weeks ago. It's a bit rough still, but should be fully functioning. We're working on ironing out all of the bugs.


Trying to buy a few things, but the pages don't display the items I click on. My constructive criticism will include a more basic layout, and less pop ups. I'm going crazy and is making me just get everything from FrozenCPU. But, I'll try again in a few minutes .


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Trying to buy a few things, but the pages don't display the items I click on. My constructive criticism will include a more basic layout, and less pop ups. I'm going crazy and is making me just get everything from FrozenCPU. But, I'll try again in a few minutes .


I don't really get what you mean. What do you mean it won't display the items? Does the page load? Is something missing from the page? Is it going to the wrong item?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I don't really get what you mean. What do you mean it won't display the items? Does the page load? Is something missing from the page? Is it going to the wrong item?


I can make a video, nothing I click loads and the page is really slow. Tried different browsers and nothing. Can't even select menus. Not sure what is going on.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Apparently This Cannot be used with acrylic or rubber. My reservoir and o rings are rubber and was wondering if anyone has had any problems.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Apparently This Cannot be used with acrylic or rubber. My reservoir and o rings are rubber and was wondering if anyone has had any problems.


Ek for sure. You can head to the community test thread. There is a bunch of tests that Fast_fate did with d5 tops there.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

There is also Stren tests at extremerigs. I remember bitspower and aquacomputer been on the weak side of the fence:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/category/reviews/water-cooling/pumps-tops/


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ek for sure. You can head to the community test thread. There is a bunch of tests that Fast_fate did with d5 tops there.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread
> 
> There is also Stren tests at extremerigs. I remember bitspower and aquacomputer been on the weak side of the fence:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/category/reviews/water-cooling/pumps-tops/


+1 Thanks for the info. Found the EK top to be the best, and only for 39.99.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> Can't find them for sale in the UK - need the official size.


I Think They might be 12 X 2

I know that the EK HDC O-rings are 12.1 X 1.6 and the bp are thicker.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> We launched a new website a few weeks ago. It's a bit rough still, but should be fully functioning. We're working on ironing out all of the bugs.


Why doesn't the OCN55 coupon code not work anymore?


----------



## khemist

980 block!, probs install it in the next few days.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I don't really get what you mean. What do you mean it won't display the items? Does the page load? Is something missing from the page? Is it going to the wrong item?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I can make a video, nothing I click loads and the page is really slow. Tried different browsers and nothing. Can't even select menus. Not sure what is going on.


Same problems here. The page is jumpy as hell... like an image overlay or add banner in the top right of the screen is jacking the page up. Completely unable to navigate.

Sorry for the offtopic..


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I can make a video, nothing I click loads and the page is really slow. Tried different browsers and nothing. Can't even select menus. Not sure what is going on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Same problems here. The page is jumpy as hell... like an image overlay or add banner in the top right of the screen is jacking the page up. Completely unable to navigate.
> 
> Sorry for the offtopic..


I've been having problems with it as well. Aside from being extremely slow, half the time I click a link, whether it be a product or to go to a new category, it just doesn't work. And I think the new site just looks bad. I think there needs to be an option to view the "Classic" web page, like how PayPal does with their new webpage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Why doesn't the OCN55 coupon code not work anymore?


Still works for me. Picture was from yesterday, but just tried again and it still works


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone here using PrimoFlex advanced LRT red 3/8"-5/8"? How are that tubing?

Are the EK-PE 480 radiators good, or should I look elsewhere? I have 2x 480 Monsta radiators now, is the PE 480 better/worse? I am thinking on residue from the production, how well it has to be cleaned before usage and so on. It looks very appealing to me, it is either going to be the PE or the Aquacomputer 480 Single Circuit I think (the silver color will go well with my other hardware).


----------



## VSG

Depends on what fan speeds/airflow you are working with. At low RPMs, both are not very effective with the Monsta even less so. At mid RPMs, the PE rads are still leading but the Monsta is catching up big time. At high RPMs, the Monsta is one of the best performers.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Depends on what fan speeds/airflow you are working with. At low RPMs, both are not very effective with the Monsta even less so. At mid RPMs, the PE rads are still leading but the Monsta is catching up big time. At high RPMs, the Monsta is one of the best performers.


I have used the Monsta radiators with low-rpm fans (it is a must to me), and they did not perform very well then and I do not have the space for them either. I will be using push/pull @ around 800-900 rpm.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anyone here using PrimoFlex advanced LRT red 3/8"-5/8"? How are that tubing?


That's exactly the size / type of tube I prefer when using flexible tubing. Good stuff imho, though at this point I'm pretty much just using it for my bench builds / temp use until I get around to cutting / bending acrylic.

---

And I have had no real probs with PPCs new site. Haven't ran into anything that wouldn't load for me or whatnot. I MUCH prefer how stuff is organized there now compared to how the old site had it, and the OCN55 discount still works just the same for me too. Apparently it won't let you use it on already discounted items though, or so I've heard. I've placed two decent-sized orders so far since the move to the new site and used the perpetual discount code both times, but nothing that was already on sale that I know of.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have used the Monsta radiators with low-rpm fans (it is a must to me), and they did not perform very well then and I do not have the space for them either. I will be using push/pull @ around 800-900 rpm.


That's how I run my Monstas, ~900rpms, almost all the time, w/ fans in push-pull. Only benching / gaming does the controller ever bump speeds up a little above 1000 / 1100rpms, and then usually only briefly.


----------



## phillyd

I've heard of a lot of issues but I use the site multiple times a day myself and had no issues that a page refresh won't fix. OCN55 has been working but there are limitations. Most discounted items and cases, for example, are exempt.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have used the Monsta radiators with low-rpm fans (it is a must to me), and they did not perform very well then and I do not have the space for them either. I will be using push/pull @ around 800-900 rpm.


I haven't tested push-pull yet because doing regular push only tests take so much time! But you should be good to go with the PE compared to Monsta if the usual 20-30% benefit over push stands up. If you are open to other options let me know, I haven't finished all the testing yet but can give you a general idea over PM.


----------



## Seid Dark

I've finally started assembling a water cooling loop, Already ordered blocks for CPU and GPU and compression fittings. Build will be fitted inside Phanteks Enthoo Primo.

Now I've started to think about how much rad space I need. Would double rads be overkill? I plan to overclock my 2700K to 5GHz (1.45-1.5v) and 780 Ti Classy will be also overclocked to the max (1.3-1.4v). I've already chosen the model, Alphacool XT45. I'm pondering between one 420 or combination of 420 + 280 rads. Budget is pretty tight but performance is equally important.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I've finally started assembling a water cooling loop, Already ordered blocks for CPU and GPU and compression fittings. Build will be fitted inside Phanteks Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Now I've started to think about how much rad space I need. Would double rads be overkill? I plan to overclock my 2700K to 5GHz (1.45-1.5v) and 780 Ti Classy will be also overclocked to the max (1.3-1.4v). I've already chosen the model, Alphacool XT45. I'm pondering between one 420 or combination of 420 + 280 rads. Budget is pretty tight but performance is equally important.


420 on top and 280 bottom would be fine for your system and fit very well on Primo. You might also consider a 240 mm front (slim and cheap) if temps down the road are not to your liking. I have the exact same arrangement with additional 2x 240 mm front and side and my temps are great with a delta never exceeding 5 C (4960x + 2x titans).


----------



## VSG

Learn from our mistakes and don't choose the rad alone- choose the rad and fan combo together. That 780 Ti Classy at 1.4v can be very hot, but a good 420mm rad and well chosen fans can be enough as long as you are not gunning for HWBot enthusiast league benching points (1.4v core voltage isn't really 24/7 safe as it is).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> is it me, or did performance pcs messed up their web page?


It takes some getting used to that's for sure. But once you adjust to it I think that you will like it better. I've found that it's easier to navigate if you know what you're looking for and use the left hand directory to narrow your search. Their directory is similar to the Egg's and they've added a much needed wishlist, which they didn't have. In the past I had to stuff my cart and piecemeal my actual purchases from that. But it really isn't too bad now that I've gotten used to it. Their inventory just needs to be adjusted to reflect on hand stock and once that is, it should be TONS better than the old webpage.









~Ceadder


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It takes some getting used to that's for sure. But once you adjust to it I think that you will like it better. I've found that it's easier to navigate if you know what you're looking for and use the left hand directory to narrow your search. Their directory is similar to the Egg's and they've added a much needed wishlist, which they didn't have. In the past I had to stuff my cart and piecemeal my actual purchases from that. But it really isn't too bad now that I've gotten used to it. Their inventory just needs to be adjusted to reflect on hand stock and once that is, it should be TONS better than the old webpage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The layout seems fine, but the page is buggy. Menús flicker and it's very difficult for me to select something.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Learn from our mistakes and don't choose the rad alone- choose the rad and fan combo together. That 780 Ti Classy at 1.4v can be very hot, but a good 420mm rad and well chosen fans can be enough as long as you are not gunning for HWBot enthusiast league benching points (1.4v core voltage isn't really 24/7 safe as it is).


I will use stock Phanteks fans, I've heard that they got very good static pressure for a 140mm fan. I won't use 1.4v 24/7, just for some quick benchmarks.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Learn from our mistakes and don't choose the rad alone- choose the rad and fan combo together. That 780 Ti Classy at 1.4v can be very hot, but a good 420mm rad and well chosen fans can be enough as long as you are not gunning for HWBot enthusiast league benching points (1.4v core voltage isn't really 24/7 safe as it is).


I'm curious as to what you might recommend for an HWBot enthusiast combination... ^_^ At present I'm using a 780 Classified, but I've plans for 2x 780 Classified as well as potentially picking up a pair of 780 Ti Classifieds if the price is right (and spare cash is sitting around for said right price)...


----------



## VSG

A chiller









But yeah, give me a few more days to get everything in place for the quad rad test.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> *A chiller*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, give me a few more days to get everything in place for the quad rad test.


Or two . . .











Darlene


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's exactly the size / type of tube I prefer when using flexible tubing. Good stuff imho, though at this point I'm pretty much just using it for my bench builds / temp use until I get around to cutting / bending acrylic.
> 
> ---
> 
> And I have had no real probs with PPCs new site. Haven't ran into anything that wouldn't load for me or whatnot. I MUCH prefer how stuff is organized there now compared to how the old site had it, and the OCN55 discount still works just the same for me too. Apparently it won't let you use it on already discounted items though, or so I've heard. I've placed two decent-sized orders so far since the move to the new site and used the perpetual discount code both times, but nothing that was already on sale that I know of.
> 
> edit:
> That's how I run my Monstas, ~900rpms, almost all the time, w/ fans in push-pull. Only benching / gaming does the controller ever bump speeds up a little above 1000 / 1100rpms, and then usually only briefly.


Yes, I am not really sure yet if I am going to use acrylic tubing, soft tubing or chrome plated copper tubing yet (I have it all so I might just test each of them), I only have 3/8"-5/8" compression fittings so that is what I will use.

<900 rpm fans and up till about 900 rpm is fine for noise, so that is the area I like to "fool around" in. The only problem is that I do not have the space for Monsta + push/pull, so I have to figure out something else.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I haven't tested push-pull yet because doing regular push only tests take so much time! But you should be good to go with the PE compared to Monsta if the usual 20-30% benefit over push stands up. If you are open to other options let me know, I haven't finished all the testing yet but can give you a general idea over PM.


I have not really decided yet, I think those Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity system 480s look so nice, the PE 480 is just the "cheap way", but I want something to look extremely classic (silver/nickel color is preferred), if I can choose I will not buy Alphacool or EK (for more than one reason).

I will PM you for advise, thank you.


----------



## VSG

Silver/nickel rads almost always mean aluminum fins at the very least and very few manufacturers offer it. There are white/silver versions from XSPC also.


----------



## stickg1

So does anyone else use Coolgate rads? They have this new model out on PPCs, I might give it a run. 65mm thick according to specs.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/coolgate-g2-puncture-proof-dual-120mm-copper-plated-radiator.html#Specifications


----------



## ds84

May i enquire something with the Pros? I bought AQC double protect II coolant, 5 litres. If im gonna do a leak test, should i use distilled water to run for a few hours? Once done, i will drain out and use the coolant. Reason asking is coz im afraid i will be unable to drain out most of the water since some will be stuck somewhere, eg other half of rad. My drain port is at the inlet of front 240mm rad.

Or should i just leak test with the coolant instead?


----------



## Vellinious

New to these forums....this is my daily cruiser:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> May i enquire something with the Pros? I bought AQC double protect II coolant, 5 litres. If im gonna do a leak test, should i use distilled water to run for a few hours? Once done, i will drain out and use the coolant. Reason asking is coz im afraid i will be unable to drain out most of the water since some will be stuck somewhere, eg other half of rad. My drain port is at the inlet of front 240mm rad.
> 
> Or should i just leak test with the coolant instead?


You leak test with air, and all your potential problems are moot . . . .









If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.



Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You leak test with air, and all your potential problems are moot . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.
> 
> Darlene


How are those enermax fans treating you Darlene? Do they perform ok and are relatively silent?


----------



## sinnedone

How much psi you pump in there?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A chiller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, give me a few more days to get everything in place for the quad rad test.


Only two circuits in the living room, which can complicate a few things. Primary one has my rig on it as well as the HTPC (with television, plus the ps3), plus two 7.8 gallon fish tanks (which draw very little power - 13watt lamp and an air pump that draws 15 watts if I remember correctly, so 56 watts or so just from that). Secondary circuit has my turntables plus the other fish tanks (two ten gallons plus a twenty gallon (that will eventually be turned into a 40 gallon)), and then in a few months that same circuit will also have at least two heat lamps for the two bearded dragon enclosures we'll be adding in. Also, the secondary circuit will have a portable air conditioner added in before spring so the living room doesn't get as toasty next summer.

Something like the HC-500 would be nice, but it draws 375 watts of power so there wouldn't really be anywhere to plug it in without tripping breakers. Then again, I wouldn't doubt it if 16-18 fans plus two D5/DDC pumps wound up pulling a decent amount themselves. Haier water chiller is probably a bit harder to lug around in comparison though, given it's close to 50lb weight.

I so hate 50-something year old buildings and can't wait until we own a house with modern electrical.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You leak test with air, and all your potential problems are moot . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> How are those enermax fans treating you Darlene? Do they perform ok and are relatively silent?
Click to expand...

I'm happy with them.

They have a little switch at the hub that lets you set the max rpm at 1200 / 1500 / 1800, and they are PWM, so it's easy to keep them at a desirable noise level with the Aquaero, and slow them down as close to 600 or so, even set at 1800 max.

They seem to move a decent amount of air and they work aesthetically for the build being white with white LEDs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> How much psi you pump in there?


I typically use right at 7.75 psi . . . . that puts the gage needle in a little white spot just above the 7.5 mark and below the 8 mark, so it's real easy to see even the slightest movement

Darlene


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> How are those enermax fans treating you Darlene? Do they perform ok and are relatively silent?


Are those the emermax cluster advanced pwm fans? Coz i have the same fans as well, using my FC to control the speeds. It seems to be noisy... Not sure if i had set them up correctly or not.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> May i enquire something with the Pros? I bought AQC double protect II coolant, 5 litres. If im gonna do a leak test, should i use distilled water to run for a few hours? Once done, i will drain out and use the coolant. Reason asking is coz im afraid i will be unable to drain out most of the water since some will be stuck somewhere, eg other half of rad. My drain port is at the inlet of front 240mm rad.
> 
> Or should i just leak test with the coolant instead?
> 
> 
> 
> *You leak test with air, and all your potential problems are moot* . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

As always,this.

The sooner this is ingrained on the watercooler community conscience the better.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

That's interesting....
I will have to take a look on how to perform a leak test with air...


----------



## ds84

Leaking badly.... I think i stretched my o-rings too much for this... Bottom one do not have the o-rings..

Any experts help on this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9N6UeUdDdA&list=UUrG0sxlXwbK1H62DZbp79Sg


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Leaking badly.... I think i stretched my o-rings too much for this... Bottom one do not have the o-rings..
> 
> Any experts help on this?


Hey your link doesn't work.

and the link in your second post says it's a private video.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Hey your link doesn't work.
> 
> and the link in your second post says it's a private video.


Opps, accidentally clicked on private.. Changed to public...

I believe my o-ring in between the blocks and gpu connector isnt holding well.

Am thinking of changing to 2x BP-MBDG14AALPI, Not sure if 31mm is the correct length for 2 gpus with 1 slot in between, ie slot 1 (gpu) --- slot 2 (gpu) --- slot3 --- slot 4(gpu) --- slot 5(gpu).


----------



## Hammonds

It has taken a while, But here's what my pc is looking like currently.









Full EK Acetel/Copper blocks throughout.

3960x @ 4.5ghz
GTX Titan SLI @ 1149mhz
Rampage IV Black Edition


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Opps, accidentally clicked on private.. Changed to public...
> 
> I believe my o-ring in between the blocks and gpu connector isnt holding well.
> 
> Am thinking of changing to 2x BP-MBDG14AALPI, Not sure if 31mm is the correct length for 2 gpus with 1 slot in between, ie slot 1 (gpu) --- slot 2 (gpu) --- slot3 --- slot 4(gpu) --- slot 5(gpu).


It sure looks like it's coming out right around the threads on that plug, I'd say change the o-ring and see what happens. Very good piece of advice that someone once told me after I'd spent months and a lot of money trying to figure out why my first car suddenly started running bad - always start with the simplest and least expensive and work your way up from there.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> It has taken a while, But here's what my pc is looking like currently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full EK Acetel/Copper blocks throughout.
> 
> 3960x @ 4.5ghz
> GTX Titan SLI @ 1149mhz
> Rampage IV Black Edition


Very Nice Job +Rep


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> It sure looks like it's coming out right around the threads on that plug, I'd say change the o-ring and see what happens. Very good piece of advice that someone once told me after I'd spent months and a lot of money trying to figure out why my first car suddenly started running bad - always start with the simplest and least expensive and work your way up from there.


Problem is that the o-rings were from my gpu block's G1/4. 1 of them has it and another doesnt... I will see what AQC will reply me.

At worst case, i will switch to BP crystal link 31mm + C47, 2 sets for parallel.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Fans done....


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> It has taken a while, But here's what my pc is looking like currently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full EK Acetel/Copper blocks throughout.
> 
> 3960x @ 4.5ghz
> GTX Titan SLI @ 1149mhz
> Rampage IV Black Edition


good job mate.. if you can add a T with a water temp sensor and a drain valve to the bottom rad entry.. this loop will be perfect. also i'm interested what rad size is in the top?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

How is 3-4 D5 pumps going to do in one loop? I guess I can split the loops too, but yeah ... the first thought is doing just one loop.

Loop will be: 1-3x 480 radiators, 2x MO-RA3 420, 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 (on each MO-RA), 5 (or more) QD3's, 2x Bitspower Z-multi 250/400 reservoir, 2x EK-pump tops, 1x LOWARA D5, 1x Swiftech MCP655, CPU, Chipset, Mosfet and four GPU's. Planning on going from two pumps at speed "4" to four pumps at speed "2". Any thoughts? Split the loop?


----------



## Hammonds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> good job mate.. if you can add a T with a water temp sensor and a drain valve to the bottom rad entry.. this loop will be perfect. also i'm interested what rad size is in the top?


It's a 360 in the top, I was going to put a T junction in the bottom to drain it but realised I didn't actually need to.

There's a bung on the end of the bottom radiator, The rotary fittings on the GPU+Pump make it so I can just rotate the radiator outside of the case and undo the bung to empty it


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> It's a 360 in the top, I was going to put a T junction in the bottom to drain it but realised I didn't actually need to.
> 
> There's a bung on the end of the bottom radiator, The rotary fittings on the GPU+Pump make it so I can just rotate the radiator outside of the case and undo the bung to empty it


nice







... did you have to mod the top or is it natively supporting 360?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> How is 3-4 D5 pumps going to do in one loop? I guess I can split the loops too, but yeah ... the first thought is doing just one loop.
> 
> Loop will be: 1-3x 480 radiators, 2x MO-RA3 420, 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 (on each MO-RA), 5 (or more) QD3's, 2x Bitspower Z-multi 250/400 reservoir, 2x EK-pump tops, 1x LOWARA D5, 1x Swiftech MCP655, CPU, Chipset, Mosfet and four GPU's. Planning on going from two pumps at speed "4" to four pumps at speed "2". Any thoughts? Split the loop?


You will not get much gain after 2 ...4 will lead to premature failure of the last pump in the series,it was proven on XS a couple of years ago,if you really want mad pump power than go Iwaki

And you are about 4 rads too many,a MO-RA on its own can handle pretty much anything,Nuc reactors included.


----------



## Hammonds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... did you have to mod the top or is it natively supporting 360?


No modding required, the top middle fan doesnt sit 100% flush because there's an annoying support there but it's like 2mm off so doesn't really bother me. The only issue being a couple of drive bays are now unusable. The bottom drive bays were removed to accommodate the 240, though.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will not get much gain after 2 ...4 will lead to premature failure of the last pump in the series,it was proven on XS a couple of years ago,if you really want mad pump power than go Iwaki
> 
> And you are about 4 rads too many,a MO-RA on its own can handle pretty much anything,Nuc reactors included.


You might be right about the pumps, I have a D5 laying around and I want to make my computer a little more "moveable" so I thought I could come up with a hybrid solution to use the internal rads with dual pumps for LAN's and the external pumps for "home-usage". Or something like that.

And you are wrong about the radiators, sir. One MO-RA3 420 is not enough for my system, those four R9 290X put out A LOT of heat ... two MO-RA3 420 LT's get tepid at stock clocks ... with custom bios and such them will not be tepid any more.







And this is in a room with low ambient of 16C.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> How is 3-4 D5 pumps going to do in one loop? I guess I can split the loops too, but yeah ... the first thought is doing just one loop.
> 
> Loop will be: 1-3x 480 radiators, 2x MO-RA3 420, 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 (on each MO-RA), 5 (or more) QD3's, 2x Bitspower Z-multi 250/400 reservoir, 2x EK-pump tops, 1x LOWARA D5, 1x Swiftech MCP655, CPU, Chipset, Mosfet and four GPU's. Planning on going from two pumps at speed "4" to four pumps at speed "2". Any thoughts? Split the loop?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> How is 3-4 D5 pumps going to do in one loop? I guess I can split the loops too, but yeah ... the first thought is doing just one loop.
> 
> Loop will be: 1-3x 480 radiators, 2x MO-RA3 420, 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 (on each MO-RA), 5 (or more) QD3's, 2x Bitspower Z-multi 250/400 reservoir, 2x EK-pump tops, 1x LOWARA D5, 1x Swiftech MCP655, CPU, Chipset, Mosfet and four GPU's. Planning on going from two pumps at speed "4" to four pumps at speed "2". Any thoughts? Split the loop?
> 
> 
> 
> You will not get much gain after 2 ...4 will lead to premature failure of the last pump in the series,it was proven on XS a couple of years ago,if you really want mad pump power than go Iwaki
> 
> And you are about 4 rads too many,a MO-RA on its own can handle pretty much anything,Nuc reactors included.
Click to expand...

I've run as many as three D5s with the big MO-RA, QDs, tri-fire Matrix GPUs, and the flow meter shows a max exceeding 1.5 GPM with them set at 5, so B is making a pretty good point.

With 2 MO-RA's . . I'd be thinking about putting them in parallel, as they are quite restrictive, and lowering the overall restriction of the loop will help keep the D5s in a better place on the curve.

If I was going to run 2 MO-RAs, (especially 2 MO-RAs +) and for some reason had to run them all in series in a single loop, I would not be using D5s.

I'd go with multiple 35X's with PWM control, or an Iwaki.

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As always,this.
> 
> The sooner this is ingrained on the watercooler community conscience the better.


Maybe a small list of pars and sticky somewhere would help.

I personally haven't looked into this, but it would be nice to simply buy a couple of cheap pieces together that could possibly be filled by a bike pump. ie some sort of T that would have a gauge, fill port, and bolt onto a g1/4 thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As always,this.
> 
> The sooner this is ingrained on the watercooler community conscience the better.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a small list of pars and sticky somewhere would help.
> 
> I personally haven't looked into this, but it would be nice to simply buy a couple of cheap pieces together that could possibly be filled by a bike pump. ie some sort of T that would have a gauge, fill port, and bolt onto a g1/4 thread.
Click to expand...

Im sure Darlene has a US version in regards to part supply,I can provide an English parts list for you,

It consists of a 1/4" BSPP Schrader valve screwed into a T with a 15 psi gauge. Attach via a fill port, Pump it up to 10 psi (You wont get much higher than that in RL use) and remove the pump. Watch for air loss on the gauge,if loss is found then rub kiddy bubble maker solution or watered down dish soap round fittings till you find it.


----------



## BWAS1000

Glacier 240L or XSPC 750 kit. Yes, I'm still wondering what to get.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Glacier 240L or XSPC 750 kit. Yes, I'm still wondering what to get.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


neither spend 50$ more and get a better Kit.. this will save you a lot if you decide to water cool GPUs an MB later.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Glacier 240L or XSPC 750 kit. Yes, I'm still wondering what to get.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> neither spend 50$ more and get a better Kit.. this will save you a lot if you decide to water cool GPUs an MB later.
Click to expand...

Small case, not much room. I was honestly gonna put the 240 up top and repurchase my H55 for the GPU and mount it to the bottom.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Glacier 240L or XSPC 750 kit. Yes, I'm still wondering what to get.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> neither spend 50$ more and get a better Kit.. this will save you a lot if you decide to water cool GPUs an MB later.
Click to expand...

This.

I started with the RX360 kit. Best thing about the kit was the radiator.

Raystorm block = overrated and AWFUL to put on for 115x
X2O pump = lol
X20 res = very hard to clean properly

Just import a rad of your choice, EK sup or evo block, D5 pump with whatever top you want, XSPC, EK, etc. and a res of your choice. Then grab some nice Bitspower comp. fittings, 2 more than you actually need is generally a good idea. Might be a good idea to try and get a small res that you can mount directly to the pump-top if you're limited for space.

Also beware if you go for primochill solid white/black tubing, their sizes aren't accurate. My Onyx Black Primochill tubing was slightly larger than the advertised OD and ID - which made it really hard to put on - but not impossible with some warm water.

The best way to kinda get an idea of what will work together nicely is just to look at other people's builds in your case - and see what they did.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













http://www.overclock.net/t/1255197/build-log-fractal-designs-arc-mini-water-cooling-rig



And worst comes to worst, just bring out the drill. It's what I did to get my loop fitted in my 800D lol.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> This.
> Valid suggestions, but I'm looking at something that combines at least 2 components into one. It would assist with my case. Also that's an Arc Midi, not a mini.
> 
> I started with the RX360 kit. Best thing about the kit was the radiator.
> 
> Raystorm block = overrated and AWFUL to put on for 115x
> X2O pump = lol
> X20 res = very hard to clean properly
> 
> Just import a rad of your choice, EK sup or evo block, D5 pump with whatever top you want, XSPC, EK, etc. and a res of your choice. Then grab some nice Bitspower comp. fittings, 2 more than you actually need is generally a good idea. Might be a good idea to try and get a small res that you can mount directly to the pump-top if you're limited for space.
> 
> Also beware if you go for primochill solid white/black tubing, their sizes aren't accurate. My Onyx Black Primochill tubing was slightly larger than the advertised OD and ID - which made it really hard to put on - but not impossible with some warm water.
> 
> The best way to kinda get an idea of what will work together nicely is just to look at other people's builds in your case - and see what they did.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1255197/build-log-fractal-designs-arc-mini-water-cooling-rig
> 
> 
> 
> And worst comes to worst, just bring out the drill. It's what I did to get my loop fitted in my 800D lol.


----------



## Alex132

This is an arc mini: http://www.overclock.net/t/1255197/build-log-fractal-designs-arc-mini-water-cooling-rig

And like I said, get a small res that mounts on top of the D5 pumptop. Like the one in this picture actually:









Which is basically this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-100-d5-vario-incl-pump.html


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> This is an arc mini: http://www.overclock.net/t/1255197/build-log-fractal-designs-arc-mini-water-cooling-rig
> 
> And like I said, get a small res that mounts on top of the D5 pumptop. Like the one in this picture actually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is basically this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-100-d5-vario-incl-pump.html


It's a midi, counts the expansion slots, 7. Mini has 4.
So far I'm liking the idea, I think I'll wait till I get a new system in there, because the dyslexic connector placement on my board is hampering the entire rig.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As always,this.
> 
> The sooner this is ingrained on the watercooler community conscience the better.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a small list of pars and sticky somewhere would help.
> 
> I personally haven't looked into this, but it would be nice to simply buy a couple of cheap pieces together that could possibly be filled by a bike pump. ie some sort of T that would have a gauge, fill port, and bolt onto a g1/4 thread.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Im sure Darlene has a US version in regards to part supply,I can provide an English parts list for you,
> 
> It consists of a 1/4" BSPP Schrader valve screwed into a T with a 15 psi gauge. Attach via a fill port, Pump it up to 10 psi (You wont get much higher than that in RL use) and remove the pump. Watch for air loss on the gauge,if loss is found then rub kiddy bubble maker solution or watered down dish soap round fittings till you find it.
Click to expand...

Here's the link to the post I made on how to build a pretty nice one:

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480#post_21458126

Since that may be more exotic than a lot of guys need, it could be simplified to using just a 1/4 NPT Brass T with a gage, a Schrader valve for a bike pump connection, and a 1/4 NPT male to G1/4 female adapter for a barb connector to some tubing of your choice.

Adapter: less than $4

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11231/koo-224/Koolance_Threading_Adapter_NPT_14_Male_to_G_14_Female_ADT-N14M-G14F.html

1/4 NPT Schrader

McMaster P/N Schrader valve 1/4 NPT 8063K38 $4

Suitable gage:

Larger gage Mc Master P/N 3846K312 0-30 $12

Darlene


----------



## cyphon

Bout to wrap up my WIP finally. I want to finally take some decent pictures and was wondering from you photographers, what is kind of setup do you guys recommend for full system pics (w/ and w/o system lights)?


----------



## kzone75

Don't mind me. Just looking at water cooling stuff for my WIP Project SC and to maybe borrow a few ideas from you guys.







Beautiful builds here, if I may say so.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> It's a midi, counts the expansion slots, 7. Mini has 4.


....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> *This is an arc mini:* http://www.overclock.net/t/1255197/build-log-fractal-designs-arc-mini-water-cooling-rig/40#post_17599814


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> It's a midi, counts the expansion slots, 7. Mini has 4.
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> *This is an arc mini:* http://www.overclock.net/t/1255197/build-log-fractal-designs-arc-mini-water-cooling-rig/40#post_17599814
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Go watch that picture again. It is of an arc midi.

Sent from my 2JZ using boost


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> It's a midi, counts the expansion slots, 7. Mini has 4.
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> *This is an arc mini:* http://www.overclock.net/t/1255197/build-log-fractal-designs-arc-mini-water-cooling-rig/40#post_17599814
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Go watch that picture again. It is of an arc midi.
Click to expand...

That picture is of an Arc Midi - the link is to an Arc Mini.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> It's a midi, counts the expansion slots, 7. Mini has 4.
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> *This is an arc mini:* http://www.overclock.net/t/1255197/build-log-fractal-designs-arc-mini-water-cooling-rig/40#post_17599814
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Go watch that picture again. It is of an arc midi.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That picture is of an Arc Midi - the link is to an Arc Mini.
Click to expand...

False advertising.

Sent from my 2JZ using boost


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> False advertising.


Over-assumption of reading comprehension


----------



## MiiX

Guys... I think i have done goof....
I placed an order on a Poweradjust 3 Ultra. Then then I got it, I couldnt figure out how to use the "Automatic temerature control" against anything else than the "onboard" temp sensor. Is it possible to use it against , say CPU temp?
I can try to get the temp sensor between the CPU and the heatsink, and then do degree offsetting to make it "more right" than it would be out of the box.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> False advertising.
> 
> 
> 
> Over-assumption of reading comprehension
Click to expand...

Over assumption of Tapatalk working with links

Sent from my 2JZ using boost


----------



## B NEGATIVE

First renders of tray with inbuilt res.....


----------



## Ragsters

^That looks pretty incredible B Neg!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> First renders of tray with inbuilt res.....
> 
> ]


do want


wow thats cool

(yes 1300 is very high for those chips esp. without a vmod)


----------



## mr one

Just had a two hour trip over this thread again and i think i need to get some new sexy watercooling parts







and also a question why on sale forums there is not so many goodies? :/


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im sure Darlene has a US version in regards to part supply,I can provide an English parts list for you,
> 
> It consists of a 1/4" BSPP Schrader valve screwed into a T with a 15 psi gauge. Attach via a fill port, Pump it up to 10 psi (You wont get much higher than that in RL use) and remove the pump. Watch for air loss on the gauge,if loss is found then rub kiddy bubble maker solution or watered down dish soap round fittings till you find it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's the link to the post I made on how to build a pretty nice one:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480#post_21458126
> 
> Since that may be more exotic than a lot of guys need, it could be simplified to using just a 1/4 NPT Brass T with a gage, a Schrader valve for a bike pump connection, and a 1/4 NPT male to G1/4 female adapter for a barb connector to some tubing of your choice.
> 
> Adapter: less than $4
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11231/koo-224/Koolance_Threading_Adapter_NPT_14_Male_to_G_14_Female_ADT-N14M-G14F.html
> 
> 1/4 NPT Schrader
> 
> McMaster P/N Schrader valve 1/4 NPT 8063K38 $4
> 
> Suitable gage:
> 
> Larger gage Mc Master P/N 3846K312 0-30 $12
> 
> Darlene


Thank you both. I will try and source these parts and report back. Also to try and spread info if I have a good experience.


----------



## Wihglah

I finaly finished my main chassis.





Only took about 9 months.

I need to add another rad to my rad box though. Temps have obviously climbed a bit since I added the GPU to the loop.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I finaly finished my main chassis.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only took about 9 months.
> 
> I need to add another rad to my rad box though. Temps have obviously climbed a bit since I added the GPU to the loop.


how much? i'm gonna add one eventually


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've run as many as three D5s with the big MO-RA, QDs, tri-fire Matrix GPUs, and the flow meter shows a max exceeding 1.5 GPM with them set at 5, so B is making a pretty good point.
> 
> With 2 MO-RA's . . I'd be thinking about putting them in parallel, as they are quite restrictive, and lowering the overall restriction of the loop will help keep the D5s in a better place on the curve.
> 
> If I was going to run 2 MO-RAs, (especially 2 MO-RAs +) and for some reason had to run them all in series in a single loop, I would not be using D5s.
> 
> I'd go with multiple 35X's with PWM control, or an Iwaki.
> 
> Darlene


I have no idea how the flow is, but I am only running two pumps at speed "4" too, never used more than two pumps in one loop either. I came from 2x 480s and 2x 240s and 1x MO-RA3 to 2x MO-RA3 420 and I get better temperatures now then before, it does not seem like my pumps are suffering at "4". I filled the loop with just one D5 and that went great in two MO-RA3's so the flow cannot be THAT bad.

The problem in putting them in parallel is my quad R9 290X's .... Of course that would be a better way, but it is not really working out that good with my system. In the near future I will take the RAM-blocks away from the loop, even though it should not do any big difference. One MO-RA3 420 does not keep four R9 290X cold (or even under control).

Please tell me the reason you do not want to use D5's, telling me that you would not use them does not help me (see my point?), please explain why.

I took a look at those Iwaki-pumps, seems to be a little overkill just for two MO-RA3 radiators ....


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> how much? i'm gonna add one eventually


GPU block was 120 Euros, the backplate £29 (although I only paid £4.60 shipped as Overclockers messed up my previous order)

Fittings were a small fortune - easily £125 in the picture - plus loads more in the rad box.

Tubing is relatively cheap - £5 for a 600mm length.


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: Warning: SLICK!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> May i enquire something with the Pros? I bought AQC double protect II coolant, 5 litres. If im gonna do a leak test, should i use distilled water to run for a few hours? Once done, i will drain out and use the coolant. Reason asking is coz im afraid i will be unable to drain out most of the water since some will be stuck somewhere, eg other half of rad. My drain port is at the inlet of front 240mm rad.
> 
> Or should i just leak test with the coolant instead?
> 
> 
> 
> You leak test with air, and all your potential problems are moot . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't hold air, it won't hold water.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...





Gonna hafta pony up some change to do this. Great idea. I'll stick to the old method for now but building WC'ing for future clients should be much smoother and take less time.







+Rep. Are you basically using a regulator tester?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> It has taken a while, But here's what my pc is looking like currently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full EK Acetel/Copper blocks throughout.
> 
> 3960x @ 4.5ghz
> GTX Titan SLI @ 1149mhz
> Rampage IV Black Edition


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fans done....






Another epic HAF build. One Question though... why didn't you just get a Phobya 200 and give yourself some room after taking out the HDD rack? When I cool my GPU setup and add my RAM and possibly WC my RAID0, I'll be adding another Rad and my 932 is similar to your X in the Drive cages. I plan to mount my Raid sideways in the last two slots of my 5.25 bay after removing the HDD rack, leaving me with the same amount of space as your setup has. I would think that a lone 200 Rad mounted to the front fan would be the way to go. Especially since I'm going HL instead of soft tubing.











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> This is an arc mini: http://www.overclock.net/t/1255197/build-log-fractal-designs-arc-mini-water-cooling-rig
> 
> And like I said, get a small res that mounts on top of the D5 pumptop. Like the one in this picture actually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is basically this: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-100-d5-vario-incl-pump.html






That would be a DDC setup but there are similar D5 setups too.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Just had a two hour trip over this thread again and i think i need to get some new sexy watercooling parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and also a question why on sale forums there is not so many goodies? :/


Cuz there are LOTS of WC'ers on OCN an it's first come first serve.











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I finaly finished my main chassis.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only took about 9 months.
> 
> I need to add another rad to my rad box though. Temps have obviously climbed a bit since I added the GPU to the loop.






Damn that's nice. I think I need to rethink Black as my BG color.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> GPU block was 120 Euros, the backplate £29 (although I only paid £4.60 shipped as Overclockers messed up my previous order)
> 
> Fittings were a small fortune - easily £125 in the picture - plus loads more in the rad box.
> 
> Tubing is relatively cheap - £5 for a 600mm length.


i meant the temperature rise.. sorry if i wasn't cleaar


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i meant the temperature rise.. sorry if i wasn't cleaar


LOL, so before My GPU was at 67* under max overclock at 100% fan. At the stock profile it thermally throttled and hit 80*C.

Now, my max overclock is +60Hz or so and my temp is 41*C fairly quickly, but climbs slowly to 47*C after an hour of Valley.

The temp rise I spoke of was on the CPU - which is about 6*C warmer in game, due to the increased coolant temp.

I'm planning another 240 to compensate for the slow rise. Currently I only have a 360.


----------



## Hammonds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Another epic HAF build. One Question though... why didn't you just get a Phobya 200 and give yourself some room after taking out the HDD rack? When I cool my GPU setup and add my RAM and possibly WC my RAID0, I'll be adding another Rad and my 932 is similar to your X in the Drive cages. I plan to mount my Raid sideways in the last two slots of my 5.25 bay after removing the HDD rack, leaving me with the same amount of space as your setup has. I would think that a lone 200 Rad mounted to the front fan would be the way to go. Especially since I'm going HL instead of soft tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I did think about using a front mounted rad as it covers two problems with one solution, But decided against it purely because of how clean I wanted it to look. Adding a front radiator removes the need to modify the bottom of the case (there's no vent porting at the bottom in the front).

There is an intake 120mm in the middle of the drive bay, Eventually I'd like to put it at the bottom ontop of the rad, Just gotta find the motivation to pain it black.

Usually with a front rad you'd go with a bay mounted res but I really dislike them because of the whole access thing, They're just way too much of a pain in the ass to me.

Yes I could have put the pump in the bottom of the case or at the end of the GPSs but it both didn't fit and there's nothing there to mount it to, Tubing runs would have been a nightmare going from 2 different opposite directions, Plus having the rad there makes it very easy to hide cables behind









My case does have red lighting in it, But the photos taken on my s4 don't come out great.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> ^That looks pretty incredible B Neg!


Thanks but it was born of necessity,there is no spare room after modding it to mATX...Rads go everywhere else.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> First renders of tray with inbuilt res.....
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> do want
Click to expand...

Buy a D Frame MINI and I will send you the Solidworks files to get yourself one made.









I even have to use a 35X as a D5 wont fit....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Another epic HAF build. One Question though... why didn't you just get a Phobya 200 and give yourself some room after taking out the HDD rack? When I cool my GPU setup and add my RAM and possibly WC my RAID0, I'll be adding another Rad and my 932 is similar to your X in the Drive cages. I plan to mount my Raid sideways in the last two slots of my 5.25 bay after removing the HDD rack, leaving me with the same amount of space as your setup has. I would think that a lone 200 Rad mounted to the front fan would be the way to go. Especially since I'm going HL instead of soft tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did think about using a front mounted rad as it covers two problems with one solution, But decided against it purely because of how clean I wanted it to look. Adding a front radiator removes the need to modify the bottom of the case (there's no vent porting at the bottom in the front).
> 
> There is an intake 120mm in the middle of the drive bay, Eventually I'd like to put it at the bottom ontop of the rad, Just gotta find the motivation to pain it black.
> 
> Usually with a front rad you'd go with a bay mounted res but I really dislike them because of the whole access thing, They're just way too much of a pain in the ass to me.
> 
> Yes I could have put the pump in the bottom of the case or at the end of the GPSs but it both didn't fit and there's nothing there to mount it to, Tubing runs would have been a nightmare going from 2 different opposite directions, Plus having the rad there makes it very easy to hide cables behind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My case does have red lighting in it, But the photos taken on my s4 don't come out great.
Click to expand...

Actually, this is the Rad I was referring to...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-xtreme-200-radiator.html#!prettyPhoto

It should fit vertically in that spot with little reason to mod the 5.25 bay. The last time I measured that space in my 932, the Rad would just fit into that space.









If you aren't in the contiguous US, you can find that at Aquatuning.









~Ceadder


----------



## CaliLife17

So I am now rethinking my STH10 build, and instead of doing 480 Rads, I am thinking maybe 560 HWLabs nemesis Rads. From what i have been reading though, 480's still might be best because of Better Fan choice, better Static pressure for fans at 120mm vs 140mm, and with the STH10, even though 560's fit, the couple of builds i have read say it is really tight and makes tubing and wiring pretty difficult.

Right now i have 2x GTX nemesis 480 rads i was going to move over to the STH10, and buy another 480, 360, and 240. (all HWlabs GTX nemesis rads)

What do you guys think, would it be worth it to do 560 Rads, or am i actually better sticking with 480 Rads? Would i really see any real temp difference between 480s and 560s?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've run as many as three D5s with the big MO-RA, QDs, tri-fire Matrix GPUs, and the flow meter shows a max exceeding 1.5 GPM with them set at 5, so B is making a pretty good point.
> 
> With 2 MO-RA's . . I'd be thinking about putting them in parallel, as they are quite restrictive, and lowering the overall restriction of the loop will help keep the D5s in a better place on the curve.
> 
> If I was going to run 2 MO-RAs, (especially 2 MO-RAs +) and for some reason had to run them all in series in a single loop, I would not be using D5s.
> 
> I'd go with multiple 35X's with PWM control, or an Iwaki.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea how the flow is, but I am only running two pumps at speed "4" too, never used more than two pumps in one loop either. I came from 2x 480s and 2x 240s and 1x MO-RA3 to 2x MO-RA3 420 and I get better temperatures now then before, it does not seem like my pumps are suffering at "4". I filled the loop with just one D5 and that went great in two MO-RA3's so the flow cannot be THAT bad.
> 
> The problem in putting them in parallel is my quad R9 290X's .... Of course that would be a better way, but it is not really working out that good with my system. In the near future I will take the RAM-blocks away from the loop, even though it should not do any big difference. One MO-RA3 420 does not keep four R9 290X cold (or even under control).
> 
> Please tell me the reason you do not want to use D5's, telling me that you would not use them does not help me (see my point?), please explain why.
> 
> I took a look at those Iwaki-pumps, seems to be a little overkill just for two MO-RA3 radiators ....
Click to expand...

I was talking about putting just the 2 MORA 420's in parallel with each other, instead of on after the other since they are pretty restrictive as rads go. . . . . The parallel pair would still be in series with all your other rads in the loop.

It would drop the restriction for the pair to about 25% of what the 2 of them in series is.

D5s do better in lower restriction loops so far as giving good flow rates . . . that's why I was looking at ways to lower your overall loop restriction

35Xs give similar flow rates, even in higher restriction loops, . . . . That's why I said if I had to run a pair of MORAs plus even more rads in a serial loop, I'd want to use 35Xs or an Iwaki.

They have a performance edge over the D5s in high restriction situations.

Since you already have the D5s, that's why I suggested replumbing the MORAs, since it would give better flow rates and save buying new pumps.

For quad GPUs, it's hard to beat the semi-parallel setup where you have 2 parallel pairs in series . . . about the same restriction of a single GPU, and they all 4 still get 1/2 the total flow rate thru each.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> So I am now rethinking my STH10 build, and instead of doing 480 Rads, I am thinking maybe 560 HWLabs nemesis Rads. From what i have been reading though, 480's still might be best because of Better Fan choice, better Static pressure for fans at 120mm vs 140mm, and with the STH10, even though 560's fit, the couple of builds i have read say it is really tight and makes tubing and wiring pretty difficult.
> 
> Right now i have 2x GTX nemesis 480 rads i was going to move over to the STH10, and buy another 480, 360, and 240. (all HWlabs GTX nemesis rads)
> 
> What do you guys think, would it be worth it to do 560 Rads, or am i actually better sticking with 480 Rads? Would i really see any real temp difference between 480s and 560s?


Yes, you will









There are decent 140mm fans out there now as well. But I wouldn't sell the 480s and buy 560s if it was a big loss of money.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, you will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are decent 140mm fans out there now as well. But I wouldn't sell the 480s and buy 560s if it was a big loss of money.


I dont mind selling the 480's and buying 560's if there is a gain to be had. Once i build this, i dont plan on ugprading the WC parts for a while, so might as well get what i need now, even if it costs extra.

What would be good 140mm PWM fans at 1500 or less RPM Range? I have only ever dealt with 120mm on both air and water, so I have a lack of knowledge there.

Might have to go find some more STH10 builds were they did 560's in the top and bottom and see how people managed them


----------



## VSG

The 560s would probably look better in the STH10 but I personally wouldn't replace 480s with 560s for performance benefits. The only 140mm PWM fans I have worked with are the NB PK-PS which are pretty good.


----------



## Hammonds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually, this is the Rad I was referring to...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-xtreme-200-radiator.html#!prettyPhoto
> 
> It should fit vertically in that spot with little reason to mod the 5.25 bay. The last time I measured that space in my 932, the Rad would just fit into that space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you aren't in the contiguous US, you can find that at Aquatuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yep that's exactly what I'm talking about,

I'm sure there is a way to make it look nice with a front res but from what I saw when I was building it, very tricky


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The 560s would probably look better in the STH10 but I personally wouldn't replace 480s with 560s for performance benefits. The only 140mm PWM fans I have worked with are the NB PK-PS which are pretty good.


Ya that is what got me thinking about the 560 is the fact that they will look better taking up the full sides of the sth10.But i wasnt sure if there really was a performance gain or fans out there worth mentiong in the 140mm (besides the noctua Redux fans)

Is there much difference in noise level and tone with 140mm vs 120 at same RPM.

Hey this is OCN, go big or go home right









I just wish i could sell my stuff on OCN as this community has been great.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Is there much difference in noise level and tone with 140mm vs 120 at same RPM.


Totally depends on the fans, as you well know.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually, this is the Rad I was referring to...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-xtreme-200-radiator.html#!prettyPhoto
> 
> It should fit vertically in that spot with little reason to mod the 5.25 bay. The last time I measured that space in my 932, the Rad would just fit into that space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you aren't in the contiguous US, you can find that at Aquatuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that's exactly what I'm talking about,
> 
> I'm sure there is a way to make it look nice with a front res but from what I saw when I was building it, very tricky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I wouldn't set it up like the first pic. The way they have it set up in the next two is the way to go, and the way that I will set mine up when I add it.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Ya that is what got me thinking about the 560 is the fact that they will look better taking up the full sides of the sth10.But i wasnt sure if there really was a performance gain or fans out there worth mentiong in the 140mm (besides the noctua Redux fans)
> 
> I just wish i could sell my stuff on OCN as this community has been great.


Post HERE and voice your opinion.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> How is 3-4 D5 pumps going to do in one loop? I guess I can split the loops too, but yeah ... the first thought is doing just one loop.
> 
> Loop will be: 1-3x 480 radiators, 2x MO-RA3 420, 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 (on each MO-RA), 5 (or more) QD3's, 2x Bitspower Z-multi 250/400 reservoir, 2x EK-pump tops, 1x LOWARA D5, 1x Swiftech MCP655, CPU, Chipset, Mosfet and four GPU's. Planning on going from two pumps at speed "4" to four pumps at speed "2". Any thoughts? Split the loop?


I am going to use these pumps in my build probably a little over kill as they are rated [email protected] each I would believe 1 would equate to 3 d5s in series
Also they wouldn't suit someone with quietness in mind.





I made this quick video when I tested them for pressure drop though 2 Raystorm blocks I am going to have to think this out carefully as notice the whirlpool 1 pump creates in a 12lire bucket


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I like those pumps. I have a 55watt d5 and a 120v e3...
I like to play with.but they are both nearly silent

I wish that you could go larger diameter fittings on blocks and such to take better advantage of them


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> Gonna hafta pony up some change to do this. Great idea. I'll stick to the old method for now but building WC'ing for future clients should be much smoother and take less time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep. Are you basically using a regulator tester?
> 
> 
> Another epic HAF build. One Question though... why didn't you just get a Phobya 200 and give yourself some room after taking out the HDD rack? When I cool my GPU setup and add my RAM and possibly WC my RAID0, I'll be adding another Rad and my 932 is similar to your X in the Drive cages. I plan to mount my Raid sideways in the last two slots of my 5.25 bay after removing the HDD rack, leaving me with the same amount of space as your setup has. I would think that a lone 200 Rad mounted to the front fan would be the way to go. Especially since I'm going HL instead of soft tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be a DDC setup but there are similar D5 setups too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cuz there are LOTS of WC'ers on OCN an it's first come first serve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn that's nice. I think I need to rethink Black as my BG color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

But how the hell should i get some goodies not breaking my bank


----------



## Angrychair

those pumps are crazy


----------



## ds84

May i enquire, for cpu block, if i connect the inlet tube into the outlet port of the block and outlet tube into the inlet port of the block, will it affect anything?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you have the minerals then a RD40x is worth it....

18.5 GPM,26.2 FT(8m).....and the constant fear of blowing hoses,Acrylic need not apply. I have seen this pump actually push D-Plugs apart.
Dont expect any pump tops soon.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> May i enquire, for cpu block, if i connect the inlet tube into the outlet port of the block and outlet tube into the inlet port of the block, will it affect anything?


Yes,temps will be worse but not as bad as people would think,dependent on block used.

Just rotate the block instead of reversing the flow.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I was talking about putting just the 2 MORA 420's in parallel with each other, instead of on after the other since they are pretty restrictive as rads go. . . . . The parallel pair would still be in series with all your other rads in the loop.
> 
> It would drop the restriction for the pair to about 25% of what the 2 of them in series is.
> 
> D5s do better in lower restriction loops so far as giving good flow rates . . . that's why I was looking at ways to lower your overall loop restriction
> 
> 35Xs give similar flow rates, even in higher restriction loops, . . . . That's why I said if I had to run a pair of MORAs plus even more rads in a serial loop, I'd want to use 35Xs or an Iwaki.
> 
> They have a performance edge over the D5s in high restriction situations.
> 
> Since you already have the D5s, that's why I suggested replumbing the MORAs, since it would give better flow rates and save buying new pumps.
> 
> For quad GPUs, it's hard to beat the semi-parallel setup where you have 2 parallel pairs in series . . . about the same restriction of a single GPU, and they all 4 still get 1/2 the total flow rate thru each.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for explaining, I will look into this. +Rep!


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you have the minerals then a RD40x is worth it....
> 
> 18.5 GPM,26.2 FT(8m).....and the constant fear of blowing hoses,Acrylic need not apply. I have seen this pump actually push D-Plugs apart.
> Dont expect any pump tops soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes,temps will be worse but not as bad as people would think,dependent on block used.
> 
> Just rotate the block instead of reversing the flow.


Im using AQC kyros XT block..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you have the minerals then a RD40x is worth it....
> 
> 18.5 GPM,26.2 FT(8m).....and the constant fear of blowing hoses,Acrylic need not apply. I have seen this pump actually push D-Plugs apart.
> Dont expect any pump tops soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes,temps will be worse but not as bad as people would think,dependent on block used.
> 
> Just rotate the block instead of reversing the flow.
> 
> 
> 
> Im using AQC kyros XT block..
Click to expand...

Not the highest flowing block in the world,I would rotate the block.


----------



## alancsalt

From pulling blocks apart to clean them it seems like the ones that do slightly better on temps have more and finer fins in the cooling area (and I assume are more restrictive?)

Comment?


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not the highest flowing block in the world,I would rotate the block.


Alright, i would rotate the fittings and change tubing for one of them. Thanks.

What about gpu, does it affect anything if i use the left or right side as inlets?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> From pulling blocks apart to clean them it seems like *the ones that do slightly better on temps have more and finer fins in the cooling area* (and I assume are more restrictive?)
> 
> Comment?


Correct,you want the thinnest possible fins packed as many deep as you can get them,surface area is king!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not the highest flowing block in the world,I would rotate the block.
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, i would rotate the fittings and change tubing for one of them. Thanks.
> 
> What about gpu, does it affect anything if i use the left or right side as inlets?
Click to expand...

GPU's are fine,either port will do.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you have the minerals then a RD40x is worth it....
> 
> 18.5 GPM,26.2 FT(8m).....and the constant fear of blowing hoses,Acrylic need not apply. I have seen this pump actually push D-Plugs apart.
> Dont expect any pump tops soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes,temps will be worse but not as bad as people would think,dependent on block used.
> 
> Just rotate the block instead of reversing the flow.


that is 1 serious pump but for my uses it isn't compatible with methanol and is not rated for sub zero temperatures.
I would be also worried about blowing an acrylic or acetyl top off a block as well with those kind of pressures


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I am going to use these pumps in my build probably a little over kill as they are rated [email protected] each I would believe 1 would equate to 3 d5s in series
> Also they wouldn't suit someone with quietness in mind.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this quick video when I tested them for pressure drop though 2 Raystorm blocks I am going to have to think this out carefully as notice the whirlpool 1 pump creates in a 12lire bucket


Which pump are you talking about?

What about buying one of these: http://www.swiftech.com/MCP35X2housing.aspx and two: http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x12vdcpump.aspx to go with my 2x D5's?

Will that be able to handle 2x MO-RA 420 and 2x 480s in the same loop?


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Which pump are you talking about?
> 
> What about buying one of these: http://www.swiftech.com/MCP35X2housing.aspx and two: http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x12vdcpump.aspx to go with my 2x D5's?
> 
> Will that be able to handle 2x MO-RA 420 and 2x 480s in the same loop?


MY-2-8000-MK

very expensive about $400 USD a pump designed for medical reliability in mind
I am led to believe they are used for cooling medical lasers.

the Iwaki pumps B Negative will be fine as long as you use water based coolant and plan to stay above 0°C I have seen cases where the volute is prone to cracking with solvents and sub zero temperatures

http://www.iwakiamerica.com/products/rd.htm


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The 560s would probably look better in the STH10 but I personally wouldn't replace 480s with 560s for performance benefits. The only 140mm PWM fans I have worked with are the NB PK-PS which are pretty good.


Those Noiseblockers are nice, but a bit more than what i was looking for pay for per fan. Since I will be buying 28 Fans (3x 560 in Push/Pull and a 280 in Push/Pull) trying to find a good Price/Performance fan.

Was looking at the Noctua Redux 1500 PWM fans, but still $20 a fan (~$600 for fans)

Really looking at the the Akasa Apache Black 140mm Fans - LINK - . Anyone have any experience with this Akasa fans?

The vipers seem to get good reviews, but the yellow fins really make me back away from them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Moved all my photo crap up into the loft and changed the backdrop,the colour weirdness has gone!!





Much clearer and the yellow looks yellow!


----------



## gdubc

I'm loving how those fans now have alpenfohn aesthetics.


----------



## nismoskyline

Paint thinner is best for removing the bitspower logos right? I am almost sure just want someone to confirm, it's for my build I'm doing atm.
Thanks!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Moved all my photo crap up into the loft and changed the backdrop,the colour weirdness has gone!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much clearer and the yellow looks yellow!


what fans are those


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what fans are those


BeQuiet!'s if my memory serves me right, but he's painted them.

-Zepp


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> BeQuiet!'s if my memory serves me right, but he's painted them.
> 
> -Zepp


Yep just went to BeQuiet's website they are BeQuiet's!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Paint thinner is best for removing the bitspower logos right? I am almost sure just want someone to confirm, it's for my build I'm doing atm.
> Thanks!


IIRC Nothing removes Bitspower logos.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I actually tried removing the logo from a leaking Bitspower fitting it had laying around. I tried all kinds of chemicals. Xylol Xylene, Acetone, MEK, Denatured Alcohol and nothing worked. I even tried an Aircraft Coating Remover called Tal-Strip, and all that did was take the black finish off and left the logo. So I don't know how they put that logo on there, but it sure isn't coming off. Not too upset since I couldn't use that fitting anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm not sure about the new ones, but some of my older BP fittings are engraved/(lasered?) into the powder coat.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That could be. But after it took off the black finish, the logo was a different color than the bare brass that was exposed. Who knows. All I know is that the logo is basically permanent
Click to expand...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> IIRC Nothing removes Bitspower logos.


Other than buying Barrow in the first place


----------



## Wolfsbora

I keep reading that the internal machining done in the Barrows is different than the Bitspowers.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Paint thinner is best for removing the bitspower logos right? I am almost sure just want someone to confirm, it's for my build I'm doing atm.
> Thanks!


Don't know if I'd try that on the painted/powder-coated stuff, I'd be worried it might remove more than just the logo??? At very least I'd be worried it may damage the finish or something.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> IIRC Nothing removes Bitspower logos.


Now on the chrome plated ones where the logo is probably stamp painted on the chrome it might work, but again it could tarnish the finish on the chrome?? As nice as the BitsPower stuff is I'm not sure it would be worth trying it, unless you have an extra fitting laying around your not going to use!

Anyway just my thoughts, I've never tried it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> IIRC Nothing removes Bitspower logos.
> 
> 
> 
> Other than buying Barrow in the first place
Click to expand...

Don't I know it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here you go. My assortment of Barrow fittings so far:


----------



## nismoskyline

Hmm oh well







The ones I ordered are the new ones, I'll go ahead and give paint thinner a shot and report back if it does or doesn't remove it


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I keep reading that the internal machining done in the Barrows is different than the Bitspowers.


The main sellers on eBay operate out of a small warehouse in midtown Houston. Unfortunately they never agreed to let me buy or inspect them in person despite having asked a Chinese friend to talk on my behalf, but they did say these are pretty much the same. Possibly the OEM re-selling the fittings with their line.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Why is this the first time i am hearing of barrow fittings?
Whats the story with em?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Why is this the first time i am hearing of barrow fittings?
> Whats the story with em?


You have not been paying attention!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The main sellers on eBay operate out of a small warehouse in midtown Houston. Unfortunately they never agreed to let me buy or inspect them in person despite having asked a Chinese friend to talk on my behalf, but they did say these are pretty much the same. Possibly the OEM re-selling the fittings with their line.


If they are in fact the same then they are a no brainer great buy! No logo and much cheaper. Though, they do seem to be going up in price.


----------



## stickg1

I bought about 35 pieces of Barrow fittings. Split up between compressions, 90s, and 45s, plugs, etc. So far only one of them has leaked, and it actually broke apart but I think both problems were user error on my part. It was a 45 degree rotary. I wouldn't be surprised if they were the same OEM. I've had both Bitspower and Barrow. When I bought my Barrows I spent about 1/3rd as much as Bitspower would have cost me. So I think it's definitely worth it.


----------



## IT Diva

I have to believe they are knock-offs, not something from an OEM.

Nobody would have a manufacturer make product for them without having the contract specifically prohibit the manufacturer from competing by selling the same product at much lower manufacturer direct cost.

Maybe Verun can get some of his metallurgy friends to analyse the metal from both brands . . .

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have to believe they are knock-offs, not something from an OEM.
> 
> Nobody would have a manufacturer make product for them without having the contract specifically prohibit the manufacturer from competing by selling the same product at much lower manufacturer direct cost.
> 
> Maybe Verun can get some of his metallurgy friends to analyse the metal from both brands . . .
> 
> Darlene


Funny you should mention that, I was going to find out who here at my university could do some atomic absorption spectroscopy for a similar thing. I can do surface metal analysis myself but the machine has been down for a month now and it isn't the most sensitive anyway.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have to believe they are knock-offs, not something from an OEM.
> 
> Nobody would have a manufacturer make product for them without having the contract specifically prohibit the manufacturer from competing by selling the same product at much lower manufacturer direct cost.
> 
> Maybe Verun can get some of his metallurgy friends to analyse the metal from both brands . . .
> 
> Darlene


They're not really 'knock-offs'. When you compare them closely there's differences between similar Bitspower and Barrow fittings, which are sometimes small and sometimes significant depending on the particular type fitting. There doesn't look to be much of any attempt to make them be exact or even close copies of Bitspower fittings, just sort of similar. Barrow's pretty much their own thing, more of a budget line of fittings. They're not as well-made in general, for example I've gotten a few so far that had finish blemishes / imperfections, but the main appeal at least for me is that they aren't plastered with gaudy obtrusive logos.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Hmm oh well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ones I ordered are the new ones, I'll go ahead and give paint thinner a shot and report back if it does or doesn't remove it


Don't use paint thinner. Use Acetone. It's just as solid as PT but not as harsh on protected surfaces. You can get it from any Auto Supply that carries 3M products. Just ask the man at the counter cause the last time I saw a 3M can of the stuff it came in a black can that said "Road and Tar Remover" That was MANY moons ago.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have to believe they are knock-offs, not something from an OEM.
> 
> Nobody would have a manufacturer make product for them without having the contract specifically prohibit the manufacturer from competing by selling the same product at much lower manufacturer direct cost.
> 
> Maybe Verun can get some of his metallurgy friends to analyse the metal from both brands . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Funny you should mention that, I was going to find out who here at my university could do some atomic absorption spectroscopy for a similar thing. I can do surface metal analysis myself but the machine has been down for a month now and it isn't the most sensitive anyway.
Click to expand...

Well I know of one fly in the ointment of that stance. Acetek. They make/made AIO coolers for Corsair. But then they started making them for other companies, danged the contract.









~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Hmm oh well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ones I ordered are the new ones, I'll go ahead and give paint thinner a shot and report back if it does or doesn't remove it
> 
> 
> 
> Don't use paint thinner. Use Acetone. It's just as solid as PT but not as harsh on protected surfaces. You can get it from any Auto Supply that carries 3M products. Just ask the man at the counter cause the last time I saw a 3M can of the stuff it came in a black can that said "Road and Tar Remover" That was MANY moons ago.
Click to expand...

I posted it before as an edit to my post, but here it is again. morencyam (and others here) have tried acetone already and several other products including industrial strength paint/finish removers and all have been a no-go. Seems trying to remove Bitspower logos will be nothing but a waste of time / money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I actually tried removing the logo from a leaking Bitspower fitting it had laying around. I tried all kinds of chemicals. Xylol Xylene, Acetone, MEK, Denatured Alcohol and nothing worked. I even tried an Aircraft Coating Remover called Tal-Strip, and all that did was take the black finish off and left the logo. So I don't know how they put that logo on there, but it sure isn't coming off. Not too upset since I couldn't use that fitting anyway.


- - - - - - - - - - -
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Why is this the first time i am hearing of barrow fittings?
> Whats the story with em?
> 
> 
> 
> You have not been paying attention!
Click to expand...

Yeah, they have been mentioned a many a time here in this thread, one of the first I recall mentioning they had been using them was Lowfat, and they come up every so often in their own threads also ...

*Bitspower Alternative Fittings*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1509371/bitspower-alternative-fittings/

*Barrow Fittings*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1493830/barrow-fittings/


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Those Noiseblockers are nice, but a bit more than what i was looking for pay for per fan. Since I will be buying 28 Fans (3x 560 in Push/Pull and a 280 in Push/Pull) trying to find a good Price/Performance fan.
> 
> Was looking at the Noctua Redux 1500 PWM fans, but still $20 a fan (~$600 for fans)
> 
> Really looking at the the Akasa Apache Black 140mm Fans - LINK - . Anyone have any experience with this Akasa fans?
> 
> The vipers seem to get good reviews, but the yellow fins really make me back away from them.


I've used and am still using the akasa vipers and they do not disappoint. They have a very pleasing tone to them while being quiet. They move alot of air as well. Good static pressure too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have to believe they are knock-offs, not something from an OEM.
> 
> Nobody would have a manufacturer make product for them without having the contract specifically prohibit the manufacturer from competing by selling the same product at much lower manufacturer direct cost.
> 
> Maybe Verun can get some of his metallurgy friends to analyse the metal from both brands . . .
> 
> Darlene


This isn't much different in the car industry. Some company makes some sort of a product, then comes another company puts their label (logo) on it and charges 4 times as much. That is until people do some digging around to discover the real manufacturer and get the parts at pricing they should have been.

Or another tactic is to reverse engineer and make the same part in a way to let them cut manufacturing costs to undercut the original competition.

Either way its A O K in my book. The more competition the better for me.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I've used and am still using the akasa vipers and they do not disappoint. They have a very pleasing tone to them while being quiet. They move alot of air as well. Good static pressure too.


Good to hear. Ya I really would like to get the Vipers instead, but that Yellow color is really steering me away. With a Gun Metal STH10, the Yellow would just clash with well my entire house, let alone my build


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Opinions on CASELABS SMA8?


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't use paint thinner. Use Acetone. It's just as solid as PT but not as harsh on protected surfaces. You can get it from any Auto Supply that carries 3M products. Just ask the man at the counter cause the last time I saw a 3M can of the stuff it came in a black can that said "Road and Tar Remover" That was MANY moons ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks! will do


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Hmm oh well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ones I ordered are the new ones, I'll go ahead and give paint thinner a shot and report back if it does or doesn't remove it
> 
> 
> 
> Don't use paint thinner. Use Acetone. It's just as solid as PT but not as harsh on protected surfaces. You can get it from any Auto Supply that carries 3M products. Just ask the man at the counter cause the last time I saw a 3M can of the stuff it came in a black can that said "Road and Tar Remover" That was MANY moons ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I posted it before as an edit to my post, but here it is again. morencyam (and others here) have tried acetone already and several other products including industrial strength paint/finish removers and all have been a no-go. Seems trying to remove Bitspower logos will be nothing but a waste of time / money.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I actually tried removing the logo from a leaking Bitspower fitting it had laying around. I tried all kinds of chemicals. Xylol Xylene, Acetone, MEK, Denatured Alcohol and nothing worked. I even tried an Aircraft Coating Remover called Tal-Strip, and all that did was take the black finish off and left the logo. So I don't know how they put that logo on there, but it sure isn't coming off. Not too upset since I couldn't use that fitting anyway.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - - - - - - - - - - -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Why is this the first time i am hearing of barrow fittings?
> Whats the story with em?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You have not been paying attention!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, they have been mentioned a many a time here in this thread, one of the first I recall mentioning they had been using them was Lowfat, and they come up every so often in their own threads also ...
> 
> *Bitspower Alternative Fittings*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1509371/bitspower-alternative-fittings/
> 
> *Barrow Fittings*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493830/barrow-fittings/
Click to expand...

Ahhh okay. Assuming they are Black, have you just tried a good old fashioned Sharpie?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't use paint thinner. Use Acetone. It's just as solid as PT but not as harsh on protected surfaces. You can get it from any Auto Supply that carries 3M products. Just ask the man at the counter cause the last time I saw a 3M can of the stuff it came in a black can that said "Road and Tar Remover" That was MANY moons ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks! will do
Click to expand...

Read the above, nismo.









~Ceadder


----------



## nismoskyline

Yeah, but I want to believe







oh well I'll think of it like a Ferrari, you wouldn't debadge the best in the business right?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Good to hear. Ya I really would like to get the Vipers instead, but that Yellow color is really steering me away. With a Gun Metal STH10, the Yellow would just clash with well my entire house, let alone my build


I think the apache is black and has almost the same specs. You can always do what I did and paint the fan blades black.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I think the apache is black and has almost the same specs. You can always do what I did and paint the fan blades black.


How did you go about painting them? looking around on the webz, it seems people have said you cant take apart the Vipers. Did you just tape off the shroud and pain them in there, or were you able to take apart the vipers? I would be afraid that painting them would make them unbalanced because the coating might not be 100% even, and adding extra weight of the pain could throw things off and introduce more vibration and sounds


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Opinions on CASELABS SMA8?


Really great case. Loving so far:





The only possible complain I have so far is that given the size and odd distances between fans in the HWlabs 560 the rad support for the bottom chamber does not have enough space in the crevice to allow the user to adjust how far back the rad should go to not conflict with the front 120 mm fan mount. So I end up having to drill fan holes in HWlabs rad to be able to fit it further back in the case and allow space for the 120 mm fan front mount. @Kevin_CL if you see this you guys might consider a slight change in the rad mount to allow space and mount for those HWlabs rads.

something like this:


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I know of one fly in the ointment of that stance. Acetek. They make/made AIO coolers for Corsair. But then they started making them for other companies, danged the contract.


Not sure where you heard that. Asetek has always focused on OEM deals. They never signed any 'exclusive' contract with Corsair.

Anyway, why would Asetek even agree to such a thing? Corsair was a 'water cooling unknown' in 2009. Sure they had a good rep for their memory, but Asetek had partners like Dell, HP and Acer.

Before the H50 was released, Corsair had twice tried to break into the watercooling scene but not been very successful. No one could know beforehand that AIOs would suddenly become mainstream and popular.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I know of one fly in the ointment of that stance. Acetek. They make/made AIO coolers for Corsair. But then they started making them for other companies, danged the contract.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure where you heard that. Asetek has always focused on OEM deals. They never signed any 'exclusive' contract with Corsair.
> 
> Anyway, why would Asetek even agree to such a thing? Corsair was a 'water cooling unknown' in 2009. Sure they had a good rep for their memory, but Asetek had partners like Dell, HP and Acer.
> 
> Before the H50 was released, Corsair had twice tried to break into the watercooling scene but not been very successful. No one could know beforehand that AIOs would suddenly become mainstream and popular.
Click to expand...

This.
Asetek supply nearly all the AIO market and have patents to block anyone else making them.
At no point was there any exclusivity clause to Corsair..they are not even the only OEM to supply them....


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really great case. Loving so far:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only possible complain I have so far is that given the size and odd distances between fans in the HWlabs 560 the rad support for the bottom chamber does not have enough space in the crevice to allow the user to adjust how far back the rad should go to not conflict with the front 120 mm fan mount. So I end up having to drill fan holes in HWlabs rad to be able to fit it further back in the case and allow space for the 120 mm fan front mount. @Kevin_CL if you see this you guys might consider a slight change in the rad mount to allow space and mount for those HWlabs rads.
> 
> something like this:


Loving mine too!
I agree on the bracket that could have some improvement, but for the Alphacool rad with multi port, it can cause issue with the cap.
I think it has been discussed a few pages back, or it was on another thread, I don't remember.

Oh yeah, it was in the caselabs thread.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really great case. Loving so far:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only possible complain I have so far is that given the size and odd distances between fans in the HWlabs 560 the rad support for the bottom chamber does not have enough space in the crevice to allow the user to adjust how far back the rad should go to not conflict with the front 120 mm fan mount. So I end up having to drill fan holes in HWlabs rad to be able to fit it further back in the case and allow space for the 120 mm fan front mount. @Kevin_CL if you see this you guys might consider a slight change in the rad mount to allow space and mount for those HWlabs rads.
> 
> something like this:


I am dreaming a little bit but I feel that the next case I will need will be the SMA8. Do you think It would be possible to replicate the dimensions and features with wood? My dad builds furniture for a living and would help me out if I chose to try this.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am dreaming a little bit but I feel that the next case I will need will be the SMA8. Do you think It would be possible to replicate the dimensions and features with wood? My dad builds furniture for a living and would help me out if I chose to try this.


I'd like to see that, an SMA8 built out of wood.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am dreaming a little bit but I feel that the next case I will need will be the SMA8. Do you think It would be possible to replicate the dimensions and features with wood? My dad builds furniture for a living and would help me out if I chose to try this.


Just be aware that working in the bottom chamber is a complete pain in the butt. I have a 560 and 280 shoved in the bottom and it makes me wish I had tiny hands. Some things are just impossible to get to.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really great case. Loving so far:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only possible complain I have so far is that given the size and odd distances between fans in the HWlabs 560 the rad support for the bottom chamber does not have enough space in the crevice to allow the user to adjust how far back the rad should go to not conflict with the front 120 mm fan mount. So I end up having to drill fan holes in HWlabs rad to be able to fit it further back in the case and allow space for the 120 mm fan front mount. @Kevin_CL if you see this you guys might consider a slight change in the rad mount to allow space and mount for those HWlabs rads.
> 
> something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am dreaming a little bit but I feel that the next case I will need will be the SMA8. Do you think It would be possible to replicate the dimensions and features with wood? My dad builds furniture for a living and would help me out if I chose to try this.
Click to expand...

We have a patent on the case, and if you build one similar from wood, we could sue.... JUST KIDDING! :b If you could build an SMA8 from wood, all of us at CL would encourage and embrace it. What a cool project that would be! I'd say you should go for it. I don't know how much work it would be, but I'm betting it would turn out awesome!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> If you could build an SMA8 from wood, all of us at CL would encourage and embrace it. What a cool project that would be! I'd say you should go for it. I don't know how much work it would be, but I'm betting it would turn out awesome!


+1 to the idea, I would be subbing to the thread before the thread was even made.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> +1 to the idea, I would be subbing to the thread before the thread was even made.


I'm already subbed









I love scratch built cases


----------



## gdubc

Custom wood SMA8?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> We have a patent on the case, and if you build one similar from wood, we could sue.... JUST KIDDING! :b If you could build an SMA8 from wood, all of us at CL would encourage and embrace it. What a cool project that would be! I'd say you should go for it. I don't know how much work it would be, but I'm betting it would turn out awesome!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> +1 to the idea, I would be subbing to the thread before the thread was even made.


Thank you Caselabs for Not suing me. I actually got worried when I was reading your reply Haha







The dimensions are excellent. Just that wood could become a heatbox in Louisiana. Most likely made of cherry due to it's durability and reliablity. How thin can I get it to support what is needed? Hmm... I could ask my pop what He thinks. Y'all make the case parts so thin and I don't know If I could get wood that thin you know? Thank y'all for the support. The Idea came up due to cost. If Caselabs would sell the SMA8 for oh you know.... 350 I would have ordered it already







But I figure they won't. So I just might see what the wood would cost me, labor being free.... Interesting. I am really considering this.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## lowfat

If you are capable of making your own words water cooling case went not make something off your own design that suits your needs better.


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello friends,

I need to clean my loop and decided to buy a EK Supremacy Evo block to replace my Raystorm block.
Really the main reason I do this is because of the mounting mechanics of the amd version. I have a hard time getting it to stick properly.
Damn plate bends like crazy.

But anyway.
Now I have to redo the loop because of cleaning I am thinking of rearranging the fittings a bit.

Can I ask some of you to have a look at the current setup and post back with tips on what to change.
I don't want to buy new fittings so only simple changes please.





Into the case from the rads is a no go to change.


Problem point was the inlet to the res from the cpu...
Fitting is connected to two 90 rotation adapters.

Ohh yeah.
I also bought a pump decoupling set to secure the pump.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you are capable of making your own words water cooling case went not make something off your own design that suits your needs better.


Mr LowFat. I am Not an Engineer. I have a 750D right now that I bought after I had a Nzxt Phantom. I have been building computers for oh 5 months now... So I am nowhere near expierenced in y'alls trade. Just learning and gathering Ideas. The Sma8 seems perfect due to rad space and the lower chamber for psu and res you know? I could get some of those fancy wheels too


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Mr LowFat. I am Not an Engineer. I have a 750D right now that I bought after I had a Nzxt Phantom. I have been building computers for oh 5 months now... So I am nowhere near expierenced in y'alls trade. Just learning and gathering Ideas. The Sma8 seems perfect due to rad space and the lower chamber for psu and res you know? I could get some of those fancy wheels too


If you are serious about trying your hand at a scratch build and need some ideas, tips, suggestions, etc, check out the Scratch Build Case Club link in my sig. Mosquito Mods has done quite a few wooden case builds from scratch that have turned out amazing. I'm sure someone there could be of some help to you


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I will check it out


----------



## Nomadskid

Please ignore the coils lol. But I would like a recommendation for a tube res as well as possible GPU blocks( or should I upgrade to a new reference gpu) currently running a r9 270x toxic. This is a 360 and a 240 shoved into my NZXT phantom. Sorry for the image quality. I suffered a knee injury and it's hard for me to stay steady.


----------



## X-Nine

Modsquito is definitely someone you want to check out. He's good friends with my buddy Bill Owen, and I've always been impressed with his work. If I were to attempt a wood build, I fear that the entire neighborhood may burn down. Lol


----------



## mr one

give me some of that sexy wc parts :/ want to start new build so much after theese pics


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Please ignore the coils lol. But I would like a recommendation for a tube res as well as possible GPU blocks( or should I upgrade to a new reference gpu) currently running a r9 270x toxic. This is a 360 and a 240 shoved into my NZXT phantom. Sorry for the image quality. I suffered a knee injury and it's hard for me to stay steady.


I love my Bitspower Multi-Z reservoirs


----------



## B NEGATIVE

ASUS posted on their FB page,im a 'Pro modder'......whatever that means....I hoping semi naked girls and cold Ribena on tap!

https://www.facebook.com/ASUSROG/photos/a.425394407387.214760.405774002387/10153194139887388/?type=1


----------



## Kimir

Great!
I suppose sponsored is associated to Pro is the mind of many.
You had me at the "I Yelolololol in your face!11!!


----------



## Ripple

The hardware is a bit outdated, but I thought I would share this. As you can see, I like my loops to be nice and tight--no sharp angles. Don't mind the sexy worm clamps, I had a bad experience with compression fittings and never went back. A few of the mods: changed power/IDE LED from blue to red, black mesh detail to red, custom length power cables, removed extra plastic from top panel for fans in push/pull configuration of top radiator.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Removed SLI connector for pics


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Please ignore the coils lol. But I would like a recommendation for a tube res as well as possible GPU blocks( or should I upgrade to a new reference gpu) currently running a r9 270x toxic. This is a 360 and a 240 shoved into my NZXT phantom. Sorry for the image quality. I suffered a knee injury and it's hard for me to stay steady.


Alphacool Cape Corb Tub res, XSPC Photos Res and Bitspower Z series tube reservoirs and EK has a tube res also. it's all about the looks but looks like XSPC is the sexiest imo. also i guess 260 Is kinda too old.. you need to get a new gpu mate. you can grab a 290/290X with block for around 250-350 and 780/780ti with block for around 400-500$ depending on what you want.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ripple*
> 
> The hardware is a bit outdated, but I thought I would share this. As you can see, I like my loops to be nice and tight--no sharp angles. Don't mind the sexy worm clamps, I had a bad experience with compression fittings and never went back. A few of the mods: changed power/IDE LED from blue to red, black mesh detail to red, custom length power cables, removed extra plastic from top panel for fans in push/pull configuration of top radiator.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed SLI connector for pics


That hardware isn't dated by any means.


----------



## nismoskyline

extremely ghetto and messy, but i hooked up the tec to the water loop now, and I achieved frost within 10 seconds!









if you want to follow my tec craziness, i have a build log "black tundra"


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anybody know how the 480 Monsta does when it is passive? I mean no fans on it, at all. I will have TONS of radiator area headroom anyway, so it should not be very hot.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anybody know how the 480 Monsta does when it is passive? I mean no fans on it, at all. I will have TONS of radiator area headroom anyway, so it should not be very hot.


Very badly. Here's a teaser from the review coming up:



So imagine that low airflow extrapolated to no or little flow from case fans. Monsta rads are a brute force approach to cramming in as much as possible, and only really are better performing at mid-high RPMs. I have thermal results also but awaiting one more rad to test out before putting everything out there.

Edit: If you want something to run passive, I would get a rad with a high FPI- preferably louvered, split fins. Or something like the Aquacomputer Gigant


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Very badly. Here's a teaser from the review coming up:
> 
> 
> 
> So imagine that low airflow extrapolated to no or little flow from case fans. Monsta rads are a brute force approach to cramming in as much as possible, and only really are better performing at mid-high RPMs. I have thermal results also but awaiting one more rad to test out before putting everything out there.
> 
> Edit: If you want something to run passive, I would get a rad with a high FPI- preferably louvered, split fins. Or something like the Aquacomputer Gigant


B'alls! That was that idea ...


----------



## inedenimadam

What is really happening here:




Just curious why my processor reads below water temperature at idle, not just like 1-2C below, but 10C, yet the GPUs seem to read as I would expect.

Anybody?

Edit to add:


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> B'alls! That was that idea ...


Yeah.. With passive rads I'd say the more the linear surface area the better, and then fin types come in. I will do a low airflow (and also extremely high flow) test soon which would give a much better idea but need a ton more core samples for that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anybody know how the 480 Monsta does when it is passive? I mean no fans on it, at all. I will have TONS of radiator area headroom anyway, so it should not be very hot.
> 
> 
> 
> Very badly. Here's a teaser from the review coming up:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So imagine that low airflow extrapolated to no or little flow from case fans. Monsta rads are a brute force approach to cramming in as much as possible, and only really are better performing at mid-high RPMs. I have thermal results also but awaiting one more rad to test out before putting everything out there.
> 
> Edit: *If you want something to run passive, I would get a rad with a high FPI*- preferably louvered, split fins. Or something like the Aquacomputer Gigant
Click to expand...

You'd need to do some testing to actually bear this out . . . . Under average circumstances, I'd expect better passive mode results from medium fpi rads.

There's a point at which increasing the fpi is going to get you to where you heat soak the air space between the fins faster than convection can replace it with cooler air.

Also how it's mounted with regards to how easily natural convection, or case fan driven air flow can move thru it, as opposed to being trapped by it, is going to have an effect.

You may be able to come up with some rules of thumb, but it's surely going to be something that has to be tested on a case by case basis most of the time.

Darlene


----------



## stickg1

I accidentally poured Gatorade in my loop. (Just a little)

Cooling performance is the same but I'm a lot better at FIFA and NBA 2K now.


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I accidentally poured Gatorade in my loop. (Just a little)
> 
> Cooling performance is the same but I'm a lot better at FIFA and NBA 2K now.


I just laughed so hard


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I *accidentally poured Gatorade in my loop*. (Just a little)
> 
> Cooling performance is the same but I'm a lot better at FIFA and NBA 2K now.


It's OK, Gatorade has the electrolytes a water cooling loop needs!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'd need to do some testing to actually bear this out . . . . Under average circumstances, I'd expect better passive mode results from medium fpi rads.
> 
> There's a point at which increasing the fpi is going to get you to where you heat soak the air space between the fins faster than convection can replace it with cooler air.
> 
> Also how it's mounted with regards to how easily natural convection, or case fan driven air flow can move thru it, as opposed to being trapped by it, is going to have an effect.
> 
> You may be able to come up with some rules of thumb, but it's surely going to be something that has to be tested on a case by case basis most of the time.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah, that's why I want to do a low-airflow and high-airflow test. But for that, the other core variable of thickness, restriction, fin height, fin type etc would have to be as close as possible.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'd need to do some testing to actually bear this out . . . . Under average circumstances, I'd expect better passive mode results from medium fpi rads.
> 
> There's a point at which increasing the fpi is going to get you to where you heat soak the air space between the fins faster than convection can replace it with cooler air.
> 
> Also how it's mounted with regards to how easily natural convection, or case fan driven air flow can move thru it, as opposed to being trapped by it, is going to have an effect.
> 
> You may be able to come up with some rules of thumb, but it's surely going to be something that has to be tested on a case by case basis most of the time.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's why I want to do a low-airflow and high-airflow test. But for that, the other core variable of thickness, restriction, fin height, fin type etc would have to be as close as possible.
Click to expand...

If you do a passive test with all your rads of each basic size, and do it with the rad horizontal like in the top of most cases, and on its side, like in a pedestal, you wouldn't have to do more than that.

Without any fans at all, it is what it is, as there's no other variables of consequence.

The results would tell generally how fpi, thickness, mounting position, and fin style factor into the overall performance and offer the data for anyone who wants to have a system that could be run in passive mode effectively.

D.


----------



## VSG

Right, but that's for that one particular rad/core only as you said before (a case to case basis).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Right, but that's for that one particular rad/core only as you said before (a case to case basis).


Exactly . . . .

You'll have data to support which core(s) are better, and which are worse, for possible passive use.

Even though you don't have every rad ever made, you'll get enough data to make some reasonable extrapolations to use to judge suitability of untested rads.

As you get more rads, use the predictive power of the initial data to estimate the untested rad's ability, and see how close you came


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Exactly . . . .
> 
> You'll have data to support which core(s) are better, and which are worse, for possible passive use.
> 
> Even though you don't have every rad ever made, you'll get enough data to make some reasonable extrapolations to use to judge suitability of untested rads.


Yup. I am trying to get some more samples but worst case I just do this for all the rads I have/will get and extrapolate. I am just not sure if OCN would be the best place for something technical and not directly application oriented like that though.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Exactly . . . .
> 
> You'll have data to support which core(s) are better, and which are worse, for possible passive use.
> 
> Even though you don't have every rad ever made, you'll get enough data to make some reasonable extrapolations to use to judge suitability of untested rads.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup. I am trying to get some more samples but worst case I just do this for all the rads I have/will get and extrapolate. I am just not sure if OCN would be the best place for something technical and not directly application oriented like that though.
Click to expand...

Worst case scenario, you start a thread for it, but I think these guys will want to know which rads could be used for a passive system . . . . especially since what works best for passive, is going to be the best for ultra low speed fan / ultra quiet setups as well.


----------



## VSG

I have 600 and 700 rpm results for 480 and 560mm rads and, while it depends on the fans as well, these weren't really any louder than ambient.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## ryanallan

^^^ wow!

What's intended use for that beast?


----------



## derickwm

Imgur.

Maybe a dedicated calculator if I decide to get crazy.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Imgur.
> 
> Maybe a dedicated calculator if I decide to get crazy.


I think minesweeper should run, should being the keyword here.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Imgur.
> 
> Maybe a dedicated calculator if I decide to get crazy.


----------



## sinnedone

Very Nice there Derick.









Trying to see how many watts you can pull from a 120v outlet before you trip the breaker?


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Very Nice there Derrick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to see how many watts you can pull from a 120v outlet before you trip the breaker?


That was a thought I had as well, that system must pull some serious wattage. Originally those 580 classys were the gpus I wanted but they drew too much power for my wimpy 1k psu and were to hard too come by for a reasonable price


----------



## derickwm

I can't say that I've powered it on yet.

Between worrying about the breakers and frying a third SR-2, I lose sleep over the thought of finally having to power it up once it's done.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can't say that I've powered it on yet.
> 
> Between worrying about the breakers and frying a third SR-2, I lose sleep over the thought of finally having to power it up once it's done.


aren't there units that store up to ~1000 watts of power as "backup", maybe you could get something like that to avoid ripping all the power out of the wall at once? i'm not really sure

something like this

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842111461


----------



## VSG

That's not a UPS functions unfortunately. It only provides a source of power when the mains is off, otherwise it just acts as a transfer agent/charges itself in the meantime.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


That shade of orange is almost perfect....


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That shade of orange is almost perfect....


I agree... Subtle enough to not be obnoxious! Well done, Derick!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That shade of orange is almost perfect....
> 
> 
> 
> I agree... Subtle enough to not be obnoxious! Well done, Derick!
Click to expand...

Still got a little bit more to go 

If everything comes in on time I'm hoping to finish it this weekend.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I agree... Subtle enough to not be obnoxious! Well done, Derick!


I'm actually rather curious as to what shade it is for the powdercoating... I absolutely ~LOVE~ how Illusion Rootbeer looks, but I don't know if I want to go with the "hazards" of getting a local shop to do it on a few pieces.


----------



## derickwm

Illusion root beer









@Case Labs would know the exact color name used with my case.


----------



## rolldog

Well, I've finally finished everything. Who am I kidding? No one is ever finished. My rig is finally assembled, working, and the only thing I haven't done yet is start overclocking to find the best settings for the best performance. The only thing I added at the end was another Samsung 840 Pro us I could setup a RAID 0 configuration. Next thing, all 4K monitors, and I'm thinking of 3 rows of 3 so I can use multiple configurations.










Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Illusion root beer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Case Labs would know the exact color name used with my case.


Imagine, an S8 with most of the interior in Illusion Rootbeer.... When I have the cash, I'll talk with Case Labs and see what they say. No point asking them now, since I'm looking at $500 USD or so just in case+accessories, and then however much it would cost to get the custom colour done (if they say yes), so I'd rather have the cash sitting there ready to go... If that makes any sense at all. Thing is I can't decide what I'd want in that colour beyond the motherboard tray.


----------



## corysti

New build using the New next case


----------



## Jakewat

Just a quick question: I have some EK HD fittings and some lengths of E22 tubing, but I'm finding it really hard to actually get the tube in the fitting. Would this be due to inconsistency in the tube or do I just need to taper the ends more?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Just a quick question: I have some EK HD fittings and some lengths of E22 tubing, but I'm finding it really hard to actually get the tube in the fitting. Would this be due to inconsistency in the tube or do I just need to taper the ends more?


don't have any of those so I can't comment on any inconsistency between fitting and tube.That been said I am using bitspower enhanced multi-link with EK tubes and a reamer/deburring, sand down a little bit on the end at an angle and water down a little bit the orings do wonders to insert the tube in the fittings.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21932/ex-tub-2299/Hard_Tubing_Internal_and_External_Reamer_Deburring_Tool.html?tl=g30c633s2087&id=ApT4IKFe&mv_pc=1885


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Just a quick question: I have some EK HD fittings and some lengths of E22 tubing, but I'm finding it really hard to actually get the tube in the fitting. Would this be due to inconsistency in the tube or do I just need to taper the ends more?


My EK HD fittings are slightly tighter fitting than my Bitspower hardline fittings. It just means you need to well lubricate the inner o-rings as well as chamfering the lip of the tubing. They can be quite difficult to get on and off without plenty of lube and a twisting motion.
I'm using EK tubing but it shouldn't be much different. The newer EK HDC fittings are much easier to use in this regard because you only need to force past a single o-ring instead of two.

If it is absurdly hard to get the fittings on even with lube then there is always the possibility that the OD of the tubing is slightly off on the piece or batch you have.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Just a quick question: I have some EK HD fittings and some lengths of E22 tubing, but I'm finding it really hard to actually get the tube in the fitting. Would this be due to inconsistency in the tube or do I just need to taper the ends more?


Give the ends a smear of silicone lube. Ideally,use a qtip and smear the lube inside the fittings on the inside over the o-rings.


----------



## Jakewat

Ok, thanks for the help everyone. I was just really checking to see if it was common for it to be difficult to insert into these fittings, and to what extent I should be tapering/ chamfering.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I normally roll a 1mm chamfer myself.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I normally roll a 1mm chamfer myself.


^^^
This.

I made my chamfer like B Neg, 1mm chamfering with sandpaper, then lubricate the O-ring with a drop or two of water


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I normally roll a 1mm chamfer myself.


This is what I do. While I have not personally used EK's fittings yet, I've used BP's rigid/hardline/etc fittings, and chamfering the end is a must in order for smooth assembly. Listen to B, he's done a LOT of watercooling and is a great resource for technical questions.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> ^^^
> This.
> 
> I made my chamfer like B Neg, 1mm chamfering with sandpaper, then *lubricate* the O-ring with a drop or two of water


AFAIK water is not a lubricant... I'd stick with silicon lube, or just an oil based lube in general.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> ^^^
> This.
> 
> I made my chamfer like B Neg, 1mm chamfering with sandpaper, then *lubricate* the O-ring with a drop or two of water
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK water is not a lubricant... I'd stick with silicon lube, or just an oil based lube in general.
Click to expand...

Water is a lubricant...as well as a universal solvent. How do you think Laing pumps stay lubed?

Oil based lubes can damage o-rings,depending on the oil.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Water is a lubricant...as well as a universal solvent. How do you think Laing pumps stay lubed?
> 
> Oil based lubes can damage o-rings,depending on the oil.


All I know is anytime I've tried water as lube it was a painful experience.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> AFAIK water is not a lubricant... I'd stick with silicon lube, or just an oil based lube in general.


Anything that reduces friction can be defined as a lubricant.

Especially in this hobby we should know this, as Laing DDC and D5 use water to lubricate the impeller of the pump.

Also, "oil based lube" can contain organics, ie food for bacteria. Not good advice.

_edit: ninja'd by BNeg_


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Spit is not water........


----------



## brandotip

@B NEGATIVE but in all seriousness, is actual lubricant not a safer idea then water?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE but in all seriousness, is actual lubricant not a safer idea then water?


I use rapeseed oil on/in all my copper tubing and bitspower multi link adapters!









Working like a charm!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE but in all seriousness, is actual lubricant not a safer idea then water?


At the risk of being ninja'd again with the answer.

The original question is how to get acrylic tube into fittings. Fittings hold the tube by o-rings, and those need to be lubricated.

Most o-rings are made from an elastic polymer EPDM. So check materials chart for compatibility with oils. Then you will see it's the worst thing you could have suggested.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I use olive oil on/in all my copper tubing and bitspower multi link adapters!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working like a charm!


Bitspower also use EPDM. Good luck with that!


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> At the risk of being ninja'd again with the answer.
> 
> The original question is how to get acrylic tube into fittings. Fittings hold the tube by o-rings, and those need to be lubricated.
> 
> Most o-rings are made from an elastic polymer EPDM. So check materials chart for compatibility with oils. Then you will see it's the worst thing you could have suggested.
> Bitspower also use EPDM. Good luck with that!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Give the ends a smear of silicone lube. Ideally,use a qtip and smear the lube inside the fittings on the inside over the o-rings.


Sorry if you think I was telling people to get out their astroglide and wd-40 wisk... But I was simply trying to reiterate B's response after someone suggested water for lubing orings to accept sanded glass.. What if they missed a rough/sharp spot? I personally would feel safer recommending an oil like silicone grease. No need to be abrasive... See what I did there?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE but in all seriousness, is actual lubricant not a safer idea then water?


Of course but use something designed for purpose.
Water has a good property tho,it dries out sticking the tube in,lube doesn't dry which means the tube can come out as easily as it went in.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Of course but use something designed for purpose.
> Water has a good property tho,it dries out sticking the tube in,lube doesn't dry which means the tube can come out as easily as it went in.


That's a great point. Maybe lube for test fitting the acrylic sections for length and contact, and then water for the final build out before filling..


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Bitspower also use EPDM. Good luck with that!


Just delete this.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Funny how an EK Rep is using xspc Rad and Block


----------



## derickwm

Don't remind me... This build was pre-EK employment. Most of the wc'ing gear was sponsored by other companies, hence the rush to hurry up and get it done.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Don't remind me... This build was pre-EK employment. Most of the wc'ing gear was sponsored by other companies, hence the rush to hurry up and get it done.


I'm just teasing you derick


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If the olive oil is so bad it is very weird that my fittings never have leaked, even with tubing that is not 100% straight into the fittings. Have been working good for me for over one year now and I change hardware constantly so I am not concerned.


But so, you actually lube EPDM o-rings with olive oil? And you've had your rig running for a year like that?

D- Severe effect. http://www.matsmatsmats.com/commercial-industrial/epdm-resistance-to-chemicals.html

It's just, from one of your early posts addressed to Jameswalt, it reads like you are doing rigid fittings for the first time; and from your build log it seems that you are running it only since a couple of months.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> But so, you actually lube EPDM o-rings with olive oil? And you've had your rig running for a year like that?
> 
> D- Severe effect. http://www.matsmatsmats.com/commercial-industrial/epdm-resistance-to-chemicals.html
> 
> It's just, from one of your early posts addressed to Jameswalt, it reads like you are doing rigid fittings for the first time; and from your build log it seems that you are running it only since a couple of months.


Oh, daaaahhhh, my fault, I am using rapeseed oil, not olive oil. Working like a charm none the less, been using copper tubing and those Bitspower Multi-Links for about 10 months, you have to excuse me for saying over one year when it is only about 10 months.







rapeseed oil it was, yeah, yeah, still works.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Oh, daaaahhhh, my fault, I am using rapeseed oil, not olive oil. Working like a charm none the less, been using copper tubing and those Bitspower Multi-Links for about 10 months, you have to excuse me for saying over one year when it is only about 10 months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rapeseed oil it was, yeah, yeah, still works.


Glad we got that cleared up then


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny how an EK Rep is using xspc Rad and Block
Click to expand...

Yes, but those MIPS CPU blocks are gold.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny how an EK Rep is using xspc Rad and Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, but those *MIPS CPU blocks are gold.*
Click to expand...

And sadly the last of the breed.....

It makes me angry to see them fall by the wayside.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And sadly the last of the breed.....
> 
> It makes me angry to see them fall by the wayside.


Guessing not making enough money?

It would be awesome to see someone like EK to pay homage to them and produce MIPS blocks with permission by MIPS themselves.

But one can dream


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And sadly the last of the breed.....
> 
> It makes me angry to see them fall by the wayside.
> 
> 
> 
> Guessing not making enough money?
> 
> It would be awesome to see someone like EK to pay homage to them and produce MIPS blocks with permission by MIPS themselves.
> 
> But one can dream
Click to expand...

Doc MIPS never really promoted himself correctly......much like Watercool.

I think there was family health issues behind the scene,dont quote me on that tho.

If anyone would do it,it would probably have to be EK,no one else really does anything 'off plan'.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And sadly the last of the breed.....
> 
> It makes me angry to see them fall by the wayside.
> 
> 
> 
> Guessing not making enough money?
> 
> It would be awesome to see someone like EK to pay homage to them and produce MIPS blocks with permission by MIPS themselves.
> 
> But one can dream
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Doc MIPS never really promoted himself correctly......much like Watercool.
> 
> I think there was family health issues behind the scene,dont quote me on that tho.
> 
> If anyone would do it,it would probably have to be EK,no one else really does anything 'off plan'.
Click to expand...

I don't know for certain, but I would be very interested to see in the reaction if EK did something like that.
EK could probably do even finer machining on the diamond-esc 'fins'.


----------



## nismoskyline

if EK did homage blocks to MIPS i would buy them for sure. 100%


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny how an EK Rep is using xspc Rad and Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, but those *MIPS CPU blocks are gold.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And sadly the last of the breed.....
> 
> It makes me angry to see them fall by the wayside.
Click to expand...

Can't tell if you're talking about me or about the company going away in general...

As far as a "MIPS" style CPU block from us, not something I'd count on. I imagine there'd be some sort of legal issues we'd have to look into, despite the company not being active these days.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Can't tell if you're talking about me or about the company going away in general...
> 
> As far as a "MIPS" style CPU block from us, not something I'd count on. I imagine there'd be some sort of legal issues we'd have to look into, despite the company not being active these days.


Hence why it might be a good idea to ask them first







It might even have to result in part of the profits going to him/them though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny how an EK Rep is using xspc Rad and Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, but those *MIPS CPU blocks are gold.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And sadly the last of the breed.....
> 
> It makes me angry to see them fall by the wayside.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can't tell if you're talking about me *or about the company going away in general...*
> 
> As far as a "MIPS" style CPU block from us, not something I'd count on. I imagine there'd be some sort of legal issues we'd have to look into, despite the company not being active these days.
Click to expand...

You are using them,there is no better tribute in my eyes.


----------



## Shogon

Yeah I'm glad I have 2 MIPS CPU IceForce blocks and the Rampage 4 VRM/PCH block before they left us. Still sad they are gone (seems like forever..). Even though my Maximus doesn't need a VRM block at all I would of bought one if they were still around.


----------



## jon666

Is it unhealthy to run a loop almost continously on a pwm controlled pump?


----------



## VSG

No reason I can think so, other than if the PWM control results in possibly overheating of the pumps or something like that.


----------



## jon666

Pump is cool to the touch when idling, occasionally will run prime95 while afk to test overclocks. Everything but blocks are outside of the case so I think it gets enough air.


----------



## VSG

Is it a PWM D5 (where the pump gets cooled by the loop) or a DDC/Swiftech MCP50X? The only ones I would put a heatsink on are the PWM DDC pumps like the MCP35x and similar offerings.


----------



## jon666

It is the MCP35X I believe. The one that came on a 3x120 rad/res combo thingy. Made things easier for me, but I am starting to second guess the pump since I have been runnining prime for 10+ hours.


----------



## VSG

Well not knowing the exact combo won't help confirm it for sure, but my question is more of a why are you running Prime for 10+ hours?

If the pump wasn't hot to the touch now, then it should be ok. Mind taking pics so we know exactly what combo you have?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Gonna re-do my Tubing. Acrylic looks nice, but not very practical going back to regular tubing.

All Acetal EK Blocks on CPU, MOBO and GPUs, Primochill black onyx tubing with Swiftech black and chrome fittings.


----------



## jon666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well not knowing the exact combo won't help confirm it for sure, but my question is more of a why are you running Prime for 10+ hours?
> 
> If the pump wasn't hot to the touch now, then it should be ok. Mind taking pics so we know exactly what combo you have?


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcdrresehe.html
I have that with an extra XP 360 rad, and a cpu block, with two univerisal gpu blocks. Pump feels fairly warm to the touch when it is running full bore. CPU fan reads ~4500rpm which is what pump is plugged into. I hope that made sense, about to crash. I am a little tired. Running prime that long to make sure overclocks are as stable as I can hope to get them. Learned the hard way that windows does some goofy stuff with oc'ed ram that isn't completely stable.


----------



## VSG

Ah that thing. Well, I would be surprised if it got any direct airflow from the nature of it being on the rad endtanks. So even a heatsink can only do so much in that situation.


----------



## jon666

Well, crap. Not like I haven't busted out the table fan before (and with less effect. evga GTX 460). I posted an imgur link of my build a few pages back, I don't think it does too bad. It is out in the open since I opted for whatever that word is, instead of aesthetics. Temps for cpu and whatnot drop once pump ramps up. I'll admit I didn't really think the loop through, but it seems to be working for the moment. Also have a 655 pump lying around that I thought I would use before I settled on rad/res/pump combo. Price seemed right. That pump is ******* massive compared to the mcx35 though. I'll have to read up some more on this stuff. Been thinking about adding another rad for more overclocking potential. Might even replace my home depot tubing if I do that.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Gonna re-do my Tubing. Acrylic looks nice, but not very practical going back to regular tubing.
> 
> All Acetal EK Blocks on CPU, MOBO and GPUs, Primochill black onyx tubing with Swiftech black and chrome fittings.


What size tubing / fittings did you use? And did you have a hard time fitting them compared to other tubing?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Is it unhealthy to run a loop almost continously on a pwm controlled pump?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No reason I can think so, other than if the PWM control results in possibly overheating of the pumps or something like that.


If you run it at a low-ish setting (which you should be anyway) it shouldn't heat up too much. I run my D5 PWM at 25% 24/7, and it has been good so far


----------



## bundymania




----------



## friskiest

That Heakiller 780TI block sure is the business..!


----------



## khemist

My latest with 980 block installed.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ah.....I never get bored of Watercool......


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks just sharing a good experience here. PPC now offer DHL service at prices close to USPS. Placed an order on sunday 12th, shipped monday 13th at 16 hours and got it all the way down here in São Paulo Brazil today at 16:33. So, 48 hours from Florida to Brazil. Amazing service and a fast option for us international customers. Congratulations PPC on a wise move. Usually would take 2-4 weeks to get the goods down here via USPS both from PPC and Frozen (not a normal curve and highly skewed to the 4 weeks number







) and fedex and UPS were prohibitively expensive. @phillyd transmit my congratulations to the PPC staff on a solid decision to expand shipping services to DHL.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks just sharing a good experience here. PPC now offer DHL service at prices close to USPS. Placed an order on sunday 12th, shipped monday 13th at 16 hours and got it all the way down here in São Paulo Brazil today at 16:33. So, 48 hours from Florida to Brazil. Amazing service and a fast option for us international customers. Congratulations PPC on a wise move. Usually would take 2-4 weeks to get the goods down here via USPS both from PPC and Frozen (not a normal curve and highly skewed to the 4 weeks number
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and fedex and UPS were prohibitive expensive. @phillyd transmit my congratulations to the PPC staff on a solide decision to expand shipping services to DHL.


Thanks! I agree it was a great decision and I'll be sure to let the crew know.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks! I agree it was a great decision and I'll be sure to let the crew know.


Then, i have to ask this: is it only an option for international customers or also for Canadian customers?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks just sharing a good experience here. PPC now offer DHL service at prices close to USPS. Placed an order on sunday 12th, shipped monday 13th at 16 hours and got it all the way down here in São Paulo Brazil today at 16:33. So, 48 hours from Florida to Brazil. Amazing service and a fast option for us international customers. Congratulations PPC on a wise move. Usually would take 2-4 weeks to get the goods down here via USPS both from PPC and Frozen (not a normal curve and highly skewed to the 4 weeks number
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and fedex and UPS were prohibitive expensive. @phillyd transmit my congratulations to the PPC staff on a solid decision to expand shipping services to DHL.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks! I agree it was a great decision and I'll be sure to let the crew know.


Funny thing is I live in Arizona and I ordered some fittings from PPC on the 8th, DHL wasn't even a shipping option. The least expensive option for me was FedEx and I finally got them today the 15th - 7 Days and they didn't even leave the country! Now I'm not upset their shipping has always been slow and I fully expected it to take a week, especially with Monday being a holiday.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Then, i have to ask this: is it only an option for international customers or also for Canadian customers?


Technically Canada would be international as PPC is based in Florida, right


----------



## sinnedone

Question for anyone who knows about platings. Would chrome be fine for blocks etc just as nickel is?


----------



## VSG

Yes


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Question for anyone who knows about platings. Would chrome be fine for blocks etc just as nickel is?


I think will depend on the type of "chrome" you are referring. Take a look here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

chrome appears in several parts of the table and depending on the type/process of plating the anodic index can be very different. The larger the difference in anodic index between materials in the loop the worse corrosion can be...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think will depend on the type of "chrome" you are referring. Take a look here:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
> 
> chrome appears in several parts of the table and depending on the type/process of plating the anodic index can be very different. The larger the difference in anodic index between materials in the loop the worse corrosion can be...


Thanks.


----------



## VSG

I imagine he is asking about something like Swiftech's chrome plating, which has been fine for years. If different, let us know.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I imagine he is asking about something like Swiftech's chrome plating, which has been fine for years. If different, let us know.


Yep. Just wanna give full access to information as I learn from my own mistakes that sometimes we assume things that are not what the other had in mind.


----------



## VSG




----------



## Gobigorgohome

I am in a bit of a dilemma, wondering of going for phase-change on the CPU vs custom water cooling (what I have now) ... the phase-change will set me back 1080 USD (PC-V2) or I could do 2x Monsta 480 for the CPU and motherboard in one loop and the GPU's in another loop (with 2x MO-RA3 420). What do you guys think? I own the 2x 480 Monsta's, but not the fans.

Now I am running one loop for RAM, CPU, MB and GPU's (GPU's running semi-parallel for those who wonder).

For the 480 Monsta's I will probably do one with push/pull and one with pull. Most likely 1200 rpm fans.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Gonna re-do my Tubing. Acrylic looks nice, but not very practical going back to regular tubing.
> 
> All Acetal EK Blocks on CPU, MOBO and GPUs, Primochill black onyx tubing with Swiftech black and chrome fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just did the same thing. Acrylic tubing is a pain for people who like to update their rig often. Got tired of having to empty and dismantle my entire loop everytime I needed to do any type of maintenance so I Just switched back to bendy tubing. Doesn't look as sophisticated but it gets the job done and i'm happy.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am in a bit of a dilemma, wondering of going for phase-change on the CPU vs custom water cooling (what I have now) ... the phase-change will set me back 1080 USD (PC-V2) or I could do 2x Monsta 480 for the CPU and motherboard in one loop and the GPU's in another loop (with 2x MO-RA3 420). What do you guys think? I own the 2x 480 Monsta's, but not the fans.
> 
> Now I am running one loop for RAM, CPU, MB and GPU's (GPU's running semi-parallel for those who wonder).
> 
> For the 480 Monsta's I will probably do one with push/pull and one with pull. Most likely 1200 rpm fans.


This is a hobby, an expensive one. You can just stick to water and be perfectly fine, or You can do the phase change and and push your performance to another level. Whether you do it is entirely up to you and your wallet, no one else can answer that.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Just did the same thing. Acrylic tubing is a pain for people who like to update their rig often. Got tired of having to empty and dismantle my entire loop everytime I needed to do any type of maintenance so I Just switched back to bendy tubing. Doesn't look as sophisticated but it gets the job done and i'm happy.


Yeah, I had to drain my loop everytime I had to install a PCI device, lot of times I ended up scratching my tubing. I also had one tube on the basement crack. I panicked when I saw coolant on the desk. So, yeah acrylic tubing is just not for me


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. Just wanna give full access to information as I learn from my own mistakes that sometimes we assume things that are not what the other had in mind.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I imagine he is asking about something like Swiftech's chrome plating, which has been fine for years. If different, let us know.


Sorry guys, was on the go and didnt have time to write more.

Basically I'm looking at possibly having some parts chrome plated locally that come in contact with whatever coolant I wind up using.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Sorry guys, was on the go and didnt have time to write more.
> 
> Basically I'm looking at possibly having some parts chrome plated locally that come in contact with whatever coolant I wind up using.


Ok then take a close look at Martin page I link it to you. That might or not be problem.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am in a bit of a dilemma, wondering of going for phase-change on the CPU vs custom water cooling (what I have now) ... the phase-change will set me back 1080 USD (PC-V2) or I could do 2x Monsta 480 for the CPU and motherboard in one loop and the GPU's in another loop (with 2x MO-RA3 420). What do you guys think? I own the 2x 480 Monsta's, but not the fans.
> 
> Now I am running one loop for RAM, CPU, MB and GPU's (GPU's running semi-parallel for those who wonder).
> 
> For the 480 Monsta's I will probably do one with push/pull and one with pull. Most likely 1200 rpm fans.


With phase change, you can't avoid being in the very sub ambient temp range, and you'll have all the headaches of condensation that come with it.

You also have some great performance potentials, if you're willing to accept the headaches.

On a tech bench, I might think about it, but not in a normal case where there's limited visibility and ability to reach nooks and crannies to dry up drips.

With a chiller, you have some options . . . . you can get the sub ambient temps, though not nearly as cold as phase change, and again manage the condensation issue, or you can use it conservatively . . essentially to replace a lot of rad area, and keep temps above the dew point with no headaches.

I haven't had a lot of time to really flog on mine, but running Unigine while keeping a delta t of nearly -10C was pretty nice.

Darlene


----------



## Red1776

Fitting things up

The light plate and LED embedded pump facades are extremely difficult to photograph.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sweet looking rig!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I use olive oil on/in all my copper tubing and bitspower multi link adapters!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working like a charm!


Personally I wouldn't use anything but mineral oil, if anything at all. Doesn't spoil. But again as said it may conflict with the seals. Bad juju. I would just replace the seals and use water.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ah.....I never get bored of Watercool......


Yup yup. Never bored. My GF hates that I think about Watercooling all the time. When she sees the finished work she MIGHT understand.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Gonna re-do my Tubing. Acrylic looks nice, but not very practical going back to regular tubing.
> 
> All Acetal EK Blocks on CPU, MOBO and GPUs, Primochill black onyx tubing with Swiftech black and chrome fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just did the same thing. Acrylic tubing is a pain for people who like to update their rig often. Got tired of having to empty and dismantle my entire loop everytime I needed to do any type of maintenance so I Just switched back to bendy tubing. Doesn't look as sophisticated but it gets the job done and i'm happy.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Just did the same thing. Acrylic tubing is a pain for people who like to update their rig often. Got tired of having to empty and dismantle my entire loop everytime I needed to do any type of maintenance so I Just switched back to bendy tubing. Doesn't look as sophisticated but it gets the job done and i'm happy.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I had to drain my loop everytime I had to install a PCI device, lot of times I ended up scratching my tubing. I also had one tube on the basement crack. I panicked when I saw coolant on the desk. So, yeah acrylic tubing is just not for me
Click to expand...

Acrylic is not for everybody. I'm doing it cuz well let's be honest, I don't want to spend a mint on flexible tubing and because while my system may change I can replace rigid tubing on the fly with proper planning for it. My current loop is going rigid and since it is I can move my Res out to the interior I/O panel my pumps to the rear of the 5.25 cage and clean it up. I liked my 1/2 tubing but tbh, having everything bunched up in the middle of my 932 was a bit distracting. And when I put my GPUs' under water I can get a single tube cut and heat it to fit and it will look like it's ALWAYS been like that without having to mess with the rest of the work I've done. Same for RAM block and possible HDD block.

One thing I cannot stress enough is planning. Planning the whole thing out before you bend a single tube will go a long way to what it looks like when you've accomplished the task you set out to accomplish.

I'm going with the Monsoon Hardline setup. I like the others too. But frankly I like the ability to lock the whole tube in. It makes sense to me and I'll spare no expense to protect my investments.









~Ceadder


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup yup. Never bored. My GF hates that I think about Watercooling all the time. When she sees the finished work she MIGHT understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


They never do







:

It's only cool and interesting to them _before_ you start dating

[It's why I don't have one, I can do whatever I want







]


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> They never do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> It's only cool and interesting to them _before_ you start dating
> 
> [It's why I don't have one, I can do whatever I want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


My girlfriend thinks it's awesome when I talk about it. Then she asks for a loop, and I stop talking lol.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet looking rig!
> Personally I wouldn't use anything but mineral oil, if anything at all. Doesn't spoil. But again as said it may conflict with the seals. Bad juju. I would just replace the seals and use water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup yup. Never bored. My GF hates that I think about Watercooling all the time. When she sees the finished work she MIGHT understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic is not for everybody. I'm doing it cuz well let's be honest, I don't want to spend a mint on flexible tubing and because while my system may change I can replace rigid tubing on the fly with proper planning for it. My current loop is going rigid and since it is I can move my Res out to the interior I/O panel my pumps to the rear of the 5.25 cage and clean it up. I liked my 1/2 tubing but tbh, having everything bunched up in the middle of my 932 was a bit distracting. And when I put my GPUs' under water I can get a single tube cut and heat it to fit and it will look like it's ALWAYS been like that without having to mess with the rest of the work I've done. Same for RAM block and possible HDD block.
> 
> One thing I cannot stress enough is planning. Planning the whole thing out before you bend a single tube will go a long way to what it looks like when you've accomplished the task you set out to accomplish.
> 
> I'm going with the Monsoon Hardline setup. I like the others too. But frankly I like the ability to lock the whole tube in. It makes sense to me and I'll spare no expense to protect my investments.






~Ceadder









Yea, proper planning, the proper tools and some patience. It was definitely a fun project, would help someone in my area with acrylic tubing, but won't use it for my personal rigs anymore. I need to get my monsoon mandrel kit together and post it on OCN marketplace.


----------



## VSG

Yes, you should. I may or may not be looking for one


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My Supremacy EVO block came in. Now all my blocks are Copper/Acetal


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My Supremacy EVO block came in. Now all my blocks are Copper/Acetal


nice.....

Why no chipset block?

So another person whom removed their I/O shield from the heatpipe.... *jealous.jpg*

how did you do it? Heatgun?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> nice.....
> 
> Why no chipset block?
> 
> So another person whom removed their I/O shield from the heatpipe.... *jealous.jpg*
> 
> how did you do it? Heatgun?


Din't find the chipset block all that useful. Decided to keep it off, since my GPUs are being watercooled and there is plenty of air flow. Also lets me keep the ROG LED









Yeah, I removed the heatpipe with a propane torch. I also bought some 5mm copper tube in case I need to go back to air one day. I destroyed the original pipe, but if you're careful you can re use it.

Edit:
That quad Alphacool NexXxos Monsta is always a PITA to install, but well worth the trouble.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Serious questions ahead.. Only two total 

1: Is there any true benefit from getting 16/12mm OD/ID Rigid tubing for the system, compared to 12/10mm OD/ID? I am looking at Possibly using EK HD Tubing, and those are my two options.

2: Approximately How many feet should I start out with. I will be purchasing extra, as this will be my first time, and I want to do it right, but I will make mistakes, I am sure. It will be a TH10A and 6 Rads, dual loops, and up to 4 pumps (2 in each loop due to the size of the over all loops.) I know it is overkill. I am still asking for realistic answers  Thank you everyone.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Serious questions ahead.. Only two total
> 
> 1: Is there any true benefit from getting 16/12mm OD/ID Rigid tubing for the system, compared to 12/10mm OD/ID? I am looking at Possibly using EK HD Tubing, and those are my two options.
> 
> 2: Approximately How many feet should I start out with. I will be purchasing extra, as this will be my first time, and I want to do it right, but I will make mistakes, I am sure. It will be a TH10A and 6 Rads, dual loops, and up to 4 pumps (2 in each loop due to the size of the over all loops.) I know it is overkill. I am still asking for realistic answers  Thank you everyone.


A1. Going with larger diameter tubing will get you better flow rate. You're doing dual loops, so you will be fine with either option.

A2. I went through 24ft of tubing pretty fast, made a lot of mistakes and ended up using way more than I thought. If it's your first time, try and get at least 24ft. If you get your bends right with less, you can return or resell the left overs.


----------



## SuDDi

Quick question for you guys...

I'm going to get some more radiator space for my loop and I'm considering whether I should go with 1x480 rad or 2x240.

It's going in the bottom of my Enthoo Primo and having two smaller radiators would allow me some flexibility and enable me to use the existing brackets rather than laying the rad flat on the bottom. I haven't done any test but I'm thinking some clearance between the rad fans and the mesh/dust filters might improve the sound profile a bit. Is there any significant advantage to a single big rad in regards to having lower restriction, or something else I am not considering?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> A1. Going with larger diameter tubing will get you better flow rate. You're doing dual loops, so you will be fine with either option.
> 
> A2. I went through 24ft of tubing pretty fast, made a lot of mistakes and ended up using way more than I thought. If it's your first time, try and get at least 24ft. If you get your bends right with less, you can return or resell the left overs.


I have been extremely tempted to go with the 16/12 just because it would provide slightly better flow rates, but I began to question myself on the basis of the opening of the ports themselves, because the 12mm ID will still have the lip of the G1/4 fittings to contend with, at each fitting. I didn't know if it would really help all that much, but I am really tempted going to do it, as the tubing will be slightly larger and have a clean aesthetic to it.

With it only costing around $75 extra to plumb the entire build with the larger fittings, I think I will do this.

Thank you for the quick response, and have a rep for the help :-D

Also, I will start with 30 feet... Never hurts to be over prepared.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Serious questions ahead.. Only two total
> 
> 1: Is there any true benefit from getting 16/12mm OD/ID Rigid tubing for the system, compared to 12/10mm OD/ID? I am looking at Possibly using EK HD Tubing, and those are my two options.
> 
> 2: Approximately How many feet should I start out with. I will be purchasing extra, as this will be my first time, and I want to do it right, but I will make mistakes, I am sure. It will be a TH10A and 6 Rads, dual loops, and up to 4 pumps (2 in each loop due to the size of the over all loops.) I know it is overkill. I am still asking for realistic answers  Thank you everyone.


There is no performance benefit for larger tube as they all have to go thru a fitting with a 9-10mm bore.

2m is a good starting amount for tube,go for 3m if you have a larger loop or feel less confident.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> A1. Going with larger diameter tubing will get you better flow rate. You're doing dual loops, so you will be fine with either option.
> 
> A2. I went through 24ft of tubing pretty fast, made a lot of mistakes and ended up using way more than I thought. If it's your first time, try and get at least 24ft. If you get your bends right with less, you can return or resell the left overs.
> 
> 
> 
> I have been extremely tempted to go with the 16/12 just because it would provide slightly better flow rates, but I began to question myself on the basis of the opening of the ports themselves, because the 12mm ID will still have the lip of the G1/4 fittings to contend with, at each fitting. I didn't know if it would really help all that much, but I am really tempted going to do it, as the tubing will be slightly larger and have a clean aesthetic to it.
> 
> With it only costing around $75 extra to plumb the entire build with the larger fittings, I think I will do this.
> 
> Thank you for the quick response, and have a rep for the help :-D
> 
> Also, I will start with 30 feet... Never hurts to be over prepared.
Click to expand...

The difference between 12mm and 16mm really just comes down to aesthetics, especially where you have a big case. There just isn't going to be a flow rate advantage with the larger size that's going to give you better temps.

What you may want to know however is whether anyone has tried the Monsoon bending kit for 5/8"tubing with 16mm tubing.

As a newbie to acrylic tubing, it would be really nice to be able to use the Monsoon kit, especially where you have a lot of bends to make for a lot of rads and such.

Being able to keep all the bends consistent is one key to a pro looking result

1/2" tubing is 12.7mm, so the 1/2" bending kit is useful for 12mm tubing . . . .

16mm tubing is a wee bit over 5/8" so checking that the 16mm tubing works in the 5/8" kit is a prerequisite, I would suggest, to going with the 16mm option.

If you're getting tubing by the meter, be sure to get at least a half dozen if not a few more, as a botched attempt at a longer run could pretty well trash a whole stick.

If it comes in 2M lengths, then you don't have as much waste, so a bit less is OK.

Darlene


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is no performance benefit for larger tube as they all have to go thru a fitting with a 9-10mm bore.
> 
> 2m is a good starting amount for tube,go for 3m if you have a larger loop or feel less confident.


Right now, I haven't worked with Rigid tubing at all. I am cannibalizing some of the items from my current build (45 and 90 degree fittings), to make the new one possible, and I am going to wait until I have everything in hand before starting..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The difference between 12mm and 16mm really just comes down to aesthetics, especially where you have a big case. There just isn't going to be a flow rate advantage with the larger size that's going to give you better temps.
> 
> What you may want to know however is whether anyone has tried the Monsoon bending kit for 5/8"tubing with 16mm tubing.
> 
> As a newbie to acrylic tubing, it would be really nice to be able to use the Monsoon kit, especially where you have a lot of bends to make for a lot of rads and such.
> 
> Being able to keep all the bends consistent is one key to a pro looking result
> 
> 1/2" tubing is 12.7mm, so the 1/2" bending kit is useful for 12mm tubing . . . .
> 
> 16mm tubing is a wee bit over 5/8" so checking that the 16mm tubing works in the 5/8" kit is a prerequisite, I would suggest, to going with the 16mm option.
> 
> Darlene


I am liking the idea of the aesthetics of the 16mm tubing, and will have a lot of space to work with. My only worry is that I will make a mistake, lol. I have no experience with bending (may hinder the pro look a little ;-) ), so I will be taking my time, and making practice bends on sacrificial tubing prior to starting the build. I will look at the Monsoon kit as well and send them a message to ask them if they know of anyone testing it out. I am super stoked about this build.

My main nervous concern is the fact that in February, I will will be moving from South Korea to a currently unknown location in the US, so I am going to work on testing all of the parts out, making sure everything works and actually start building when I arrive at the new place, and get all of the parts in.

Another edit... This hardline tubing and fittings from Monsoon looks amazing! I have not looked at them for some reason, and may need to replan this part...


----------



## sprower

Speaking of Monsoon... Anyone know why you can't find 6packs of the economy fittings anymore? It seems like PPCS dropped them all together and you can only buy them in singles on FCPU.

I maybe mistaken but I vaguely recall someone mentioning that there was a dispute over these fittings between Monsoon and PPCS.

Anyone?

Anyone?

Buelar Phillyd?

edit* Nevermind me... suddenly a wild economy fitting appeared...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You want Alpenfohn Wing boost 2's?

You gots em!















PARVUM picked them as the OEM for their fans,very much pleased by this!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You want Alpenfohn Wing boost 2's?
> 
> You gots em!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PARVUM picked them as the OEM for their fans,very much pleased by this!


Those look sweet


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You want Alpenfohn Wing boost 2's?
> 
> You gots em!
> 
> PARVUM picked them as the OEM for their fans,very much pleased by this!


That means we have a chance to get them in the USA via PPCs.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone here brushed down the Alphacool NexXxos Monsta radiator to be totally shiny? (through the black paint on it).

I am "done" with one side on my Monsta 480, sanded down with 800 grit, have started on 2000 grit just to see how shiny it could be, will be using some more of the 2000 grit before doing 2500 grit and then polish it (if it is shiny enough I pick up some clear coat to spray on it), planning to do the whole radiator like this to use in the roof of my LD Cooling PC-V8. What do you guys think? Anyone done this before with the Monsta radiators?





I can tell that you do not have the 800 grit paper for long when you are going through white paint, then primer and then the "original" paint.


----------



## Alex132

Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.


I already have two of them, so why not use them?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.


It does if you have good fans ... thing about thick rads is that they need a lot of CFM to function well. so if you have a low rpm with a lot of CFM it will work. else you will have noisy fans.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.


I dont love any Alphacool products......There is a special place in China where they make things badly,Alphacool have an office there.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> I already have two of them, so why not use them?
Click to expand...

But why purchase them in the first place is what I am wondering.

In my mind, if you want a thick rad: go for RX-series. Otherwise just get whatever you want.

I am pretty sure that if you had a thinner radiator like an AX-series radiator with push/pull, you could beat the performance of a single Monsta rad with push - and take up less or the same space. And push/pull doesn't have to be loud, but it can easily add a lot of static pressure for higher FPI.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> It does if you have good fans ... thing about thick rads is that they need a lot of CFM to function well. so if you have a low rpm with a lot of CFM it will work. else you will have noisy fans.
Click to expand...

I think you mean static pressure...?
And the 'point' of thick rads with low FPI is so that you can use quiet fans on them








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> I dont love any Alphacool products......There is a special place in China where they make things badly,Alphacool have an office there.
Click to expand...

Never used any, never had the chance. Seen a lot of radiator dents though.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont love any Alphacool products......There is a special place in China where they make things badly,Alphacool have an office there.


I am on the verge of getting an ST30.

What do you suggest instead?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I am on the verge of getting an ST30.
> 
> What do you suggest instead?


I bought an ST30, used, off of a reliable source who had ran it for a very short time. I started to notice a tiny trickle of water during the first leak test, removed my fittings and tubing, redid it, it got worse. On the 4th time, I went to unscrew the fitting and the threading collar snapped right off. I looked at the solder/weld marks and it looked like 6 month old baby did the work. I will say that my Monsta, replacement 240 ST30, and my 140 ST30 cool like a champ though! Both of my OC'd and stressed tested 780 Ti SCs only hit between 36 to 38 degrees. I will definitely go with Black Ice next time though.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I am on the verge of getting an ST30.
> 
> What do you suggest instead?


HardwareLabs Nemesis GTS series. Tremendous stuff given the dimensions. Just be sure you got a decent pump to handle the restriction. More on this soon.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> But why purchase them in the first place is what I am wondering.
> 
> In my mind, if you want a thick rad: go for RX-series. Otherwise just get whatever you want.
> 
> I am pretty sure that if you had a thinner radiator like an AX-series radiator with push/pull, you could beat the performance of a single Monsta rad with push - and take up less or the same space. And push/pull doesn't have to be loud, but it can easily add a lot of static pressure for higher FPI.
> I think you mean static pressure...?
> And the 'point' of thick rads with low FPI is so that you can use quiet fans on them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never used any, never had the chance. Seen a lot of radiator dents though.


Yes i meant SP..


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> But why purchase them in the first place is what I am wondering.
> 
> In my mind, if you want a thick rad: go for RX-series. Otherwise just get whatever you want.


I bought them to cool down 2x Maxwell Classified Hydro Coppers, but then I got 4x R9 290X instead (and now, looking at EK's version of the Hydro Copper I thank God I got the R9 290X's)









Today, I would probably have bought the EK-XTX480 instead.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.


I've now on the 10th Monsta rad. Luve'em myself personally, except the thorough cleaning they need thanks to Alphacool's lack of doing so. Not sure where you got it that "the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling" though. Somewhere between 800rpms and 1200rpms with a single set of fans (a little lower rpms in push-pull, which is the only way to run Monstas anywho imho) the Monsta starts to perform quite well comparatively ...


Spoiler: Bundy's test results:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> [...] *Test-Results:*
> 
> Delta-T - Difference between air and water temperature. Lower = better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 600 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 800 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 1200 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 1500 rpm. - i used fans from Phobya* [...]


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I already have two of them, so why not use them?


With high rpm fans, they outperform thinner rads. They start outperforming other rads at about 1200rpm. At 600-800 rpm thinner rads actually perform better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not sure where you are seeing that lower rpms are better for thicker rads. If you are talking about the graph billbartuska posted for a 30mm thick rad it shows that the higher the rpm, the more watts of heat dissipated. The same would hold true for all rads.
> 
> Have a look at Bundy's radiator testing. Lower rpms tend to favor thinner, less restrictive rads* (*in general - that 56mm thick RX V3 from XSPC is a standout at both low and high rpms). The Monsta only starts to outperform other rads at 1200rpms and above (actually, it shows that the Monsta starts to outperform other rads somewhere between 800rpms and 1200rpms, at what point exactly in between one can only speculate)
> 
> Clearly fans that move more air through the rad will perform best, and having fans on both sides of the rad in push-pull would increase that effect a lot, especially so with an 85mm thick rad like the Alphacool Monsta, but that higher volume of airflow tends to come at the cost of increased fan noise. If you're not bothered by fan noise then get some high performance 38mm fans like the Delta AFB1212VHE or AFB1212SHE or some of the high speed black-bladed 3000/4250/5400rpm Gentle Typhoons.
> 
> If you are concerned with noise then really your best bet is still the 1850rpm or 2150rpm Gentle Typhoon, though they can be hard to find these days, at least at any affordable prices. Not sure how long CoolerGuys are going to have those 1850rpm ones in stock but they seem to be pretty much the only people with them that aren't price gouging.
> 
> When it comes to a balance of noise and performance, there's Gentle Typhoons, and then there's everyone else, all except the Delta AFB1212VHE which also is a standout from the pack except at much higher noise and airflow levels. Have a look at some of Martin's fan-on-rad testing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Martin's 50 fan-on-rad Chart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any case you'll probably want to have some form of speed control for your fans. How you plan to be able to do that can help narrow down your fan choices.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont love any Alphacool products......There is a special place in China where they make things badly,Alphacool have an office there.


LOL. A lot of stuff is made there apparently.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I am on the verge of getting an ST30.
> 
> What do you suggest instead?


Does it need to be exactly 30mm? For slims, I like the Swiftech rads, they have two models, one for higher RPM fans and one for quiet fans.

Here is the quiet:

http://www.swiftech.com/MCRx20-QP.aspx


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> With high rpm fans, they outperform thinner rads. They start outperforming other rads at about 1200rpm. At 600-800 rpm thinner rads actually perform better.


Yeah, but at the point of the Monsta outperforming other radiators, you also have the considerably thinner RXv3 performing on par with the Monsta. And that radiator is good at all fan RPMs, and doesn't have nearly as much space constriction as a Monsta radiator in your case. And it is a FAR cleaner radiator compared to Alphastool products. Oh, AND the RXv3 is cheaper. There really isn't a single case where you should go with an Alphastool Monsta vs at least an RXv3.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> I've now on the 10th Monsta rad. Luve'em myself personally, except the thorough cleaning they need thanks to Alphacool's lack of doing so. Not sure where you got it that "the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling" though. Somewhere between 800rpms and 1200rpms with a single set of fans (a little lower rpms in push-pull, which is the only way to run Monstas anywho imho) the Monsta starts to perform quite well comparatively ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Bundy's test results:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> [...] *Test-Results:*
> 
> Delta-T - Difference between air and water temperature. Lower = better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 600 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 800 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 1200 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 1500 rpm. - i used fans from Phobya* [...]
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Yeesh, that doesn't look good IMO.

All worse than thinner rads, most noticeably the RX360 - until you hit fan speeds where fan-noise will be too loud.
Yeah, I would still say that thickness has very little effect on cooling compared to adding length or width.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet looking rig!
> Personally I wouldn't use anything but mineral oil, if anything at all. Doesn't spoil. But again as said it may conflict with the seals. Bad juju. I would just replace the seals and use water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup yup. Never bored. My GF hates that I think about Watercooling all the time. When she sees the finished work she MIGHT understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic is not for everybody. I'm doing it cuz well let's be honest, I don't want to spend a mint on flexible tubing and because while my system may change I can replace rigid tubing on the fly with proper planning for it. My current loop is going rigid and since it is I can move my Res out to the interior I/O panel my pumps to the rear of the 5.25 cage and clean it up. I liked my 1/2 tubing but tbh, having everything bunched up in the middle of my 932 was a bit distracting. And when I put my GPUs' under water I can get a single tube cut and heat it to fit and it will look like it's ALWAYS been like that without having to mess with the rest of the work I've done. Same for RAM block and possible HDD block.
> 
> One thing I cannot stress enough is planning. Planning the whole thing out before you bend a single tube will go a long way to what it looks like when you've accomplished the task you set out to accomplish.
> 
> I'm going with the Monsoon Hardline setup. I like the others too. But frankly I like the ability to lock the whole tube in. It makes sense to me and I'll spare no expense to protect my investments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, proper planning, the proper tools and some patience. It was definitely a fun project, would help someone in my area with acrylic tubing, but won't use it for my personal rigs anymore. I need to get my monsoon mandrel kit together and post it on OCN marketplace.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, you should. I may or may not be looking for one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My Supremacy EVO block came in. Now all my blocks are Copper/Acetal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome z9* board.









That 4 pin at the top, does it power your I/O side RAM or the I/O itself?









Apologies for the n00bness of the question but it's fairly new tech for me and the only stupid question is a question unasked imho.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> nice.....
> 
> Why no chipset block?
> 
> So another person whom removed their I/O shield from the heatpipe.... *jealous.jpg*
> 
> how did you do it? Heatgun?
> 
> 
> 
> Din't find the chipset block all that useful. Decided to keep it off, since my GPUs are being watercooled and there is plenty of air flow. Also lets me keep the ROG LED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I removed the heatpipe with a propane torch. I also bought some 5mm copper tube in case I need to go back to air one day. I destroyed the original pipe, but if you're careful you can re use it.
> 
> Edit:
> That quad Alphacool NexXxos Monsta is always a PITA to install, but well worth the trouble.
Click to expand...

Well speaking from experience with my CIVF; I found that so long as you can single block it, the MB block is the way to go. Lowered my NB temps nearly 20c from where it hovered around the 60c threshhold. That is entirely way too warm for the health of the MB. I found that I had to file the standoffs to correct the issue but even then it hovered near 50 and went up to 55c when I tried OC'ing my CPU. And that caused a couple of BSODs' while I was still running air over the board. But of course I already had my CPU under water with the H50 and then the EK Supreme so it only made sense to jump on a fresh used block when one became available. My NB temp hovers arround 40c now but it's not up and running atm due to change of tubing type. Can't wait to get FX-8350 or better. Love my Thubbie but I'm liking the idea of an 8 Core CPU on an AM3 Board.









So yeah, I would say it more or less depends on the layout of your board, the blocks you can get and the functionality of both as necessity or want.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Serious questions ahead.. Only two total
> 
> 1: Is there any true benefit from getting 16/12mm OD/ID Rigid tubing for the system, compared to 12/10mm OD/ID? I am looking at Possibly using EK HD Tubing, and those are my two options.
> 
> 2: Approximately How many feet should I start out with. I will be purchasing extra, as this will be my first time, and I want to do it right, but I will make mistakes, I am sure. It will be a TH10A and 6 Rads, dual loops, and up to 4 pumps (2 in each loop due to the size of the over all loops.) I know it is overkill. I am still asking for realistic answers  Thank you everyone.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Serious questions ahead.. Only two total
> 
> 1: Is there any true benefit from getting 16/12mm OD/ID Rigid tubing for the system, compared to 12/10mm OD/ID? I am looking at Possibly using EK HD Tubing, and those are my two options.
> 
> 2: Approximately How many feet should I start out with. I will be purchasing extra, as this will be my first time, and I want to do it right, but I will make mistakes, I am sure. It will be a TH10A and 6 Rads, dual loops, and up to 4 pumps (2 in each loop due to the size of the over all loops.) I know it is overkill. I am still asking for realistic answers  Thank you everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> There is no performance benefit for larger tube as they all have to go thru a fitting with a 9-10mm bore.
> 
> 2m is a good starting amount for tube,go for 3m if you have a larger loop or feel less confident.
Click to expand...

This.

Size of tubing has zero to do with flow rate. That will come from Pump(s) and what kind of travel the coolant has. Less angles means better flow.

Tubing size is pure aesthetics at this point. Some people like MONDO and some people like skinny. I went with 3/4" cause I like the look and personal feel of it in my case which while ancient is pretty beefy in the interior. Small 3/8" tubing would just look out of place in my HAF. imho. I had to downsize to 5/8" OD because Monsoon doesn't offer 3/4" Hardline. Which of course necessitated a slight change in fittings as well.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> But why purchase them in the first place is what I am wondering.
> 
> In my mind, if you want a thick rad: go for RX-series. Otherwise just get whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought them to cool down 2x Maxwell Classified Hydro Coppers, but then I got *4x R9 290X* instead (and now, looking at EK's version of the Hydro Copper I thank God I got the R9 290X's)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today, I would probably have bought the EK-XTX480 instead.
Click to expand...

So jelly atm. If yer missin one in the next few days, wasn't me. I swear.









~Ceadder


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Yeah, but at the point of the Monsta outperforming other radiators, you also have the considerably thinner RXv3 performing on par with the Monsta. And that radiator is good at all fan RPMs, and doesn't have nearly as much space constriction as a Monsta radiator in your case. And it is a FAR cleaner radiator compared to Alphastool products. Oh, AND the RXv3 is cheaper. There really isn't a single case where you should go with an Alphastool Monsta vs at least an RXv3.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Yeah, but at the point of the Monsta outperforming other radiators, you also have the considerably thinner RXv3 performing on par with the Monsta. And that radiator is good at all fan RPMs, and doesn't have nearly as much space constriction as a Monsta radiator in your case. And it is a FAR cleaner radiator compared to Alphastool products. Oh, AND the RXv3 is cheaper. There really isn't a single case where you should go with an Alphastool Monsta vs at least an RXv3.


Monstas are definitely not for people that are tight on space. They get outperformed at low rpms, but still do a good job cooling, at high RPM they still outperform the RX. The key here is AP-15, easy on the ears at 1850rpm.









I'm really happy with them, been using them for a year now.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> With high rpm fans, they outperform thinner rads. They start outperforming other rads at about 1200rpm. At 600-800 rpm thinner rads actually perform better.


@Geggeg told me that the Monsta's needs 1500 rpm + to perform as good as other 480 radiators, so I think your theory is a little wrong. I am mostly using it to "fill" the top of my case and I will most likely use Noctua NF-F12's on it with pull, when they are painted white like mine they look good.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So jelly atm. If yer missin one in the next few days, wasn't me. I swear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


LOL







Very happy with them after I got them under water, running everything I throw at it at 4K with max settings (have not tried C3 yet, though)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont love any Alphacool products......There is a special place in China where they make things badly,Alphacool have an office there.


I just use a 240 UT 60 (with and XSPC Rx 360 V3 rad. What gives on alphacool?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> @Geggeg told me that the Monsta's needs 1500 rpm + to perform as good as other 480 radiators, so I think your theory is a little wrong. I am mostly using it to "fill" the top of my case and I will most likely use Noctua NF-F12's on it with pull, when they are painted white like mine they look good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very happy with them after I got them under water, running everything I throw at it at 4K with max settings (have not tried C3 yet, though)


Take a look at Bundys Rad testing. 800rpm is when they actually start getting ahead.


----------



## Nichismo

Made a few small upgrades this week that ended up taking WAY too long to install....

I had been using an AX860 power supply for a while now, and my SLI suddenly started having issues, it would shut on and off sporadically. It took me a little while before I realized it was a power issue. So I finally got an AX1200i over the weekend, id always wanted one for so long. They look amazing and im psyched to try out the Corsair link software. It was kind of tough to mount vertically in the front of the chassis, but it gave me a chance to really organize my cables once and for all. I was thinking of going to Ensourced for a custom set of PCI cables for the GPU and a 24pin mobo cable, but im pretty satisfied with what I have now.

I also bought some Noiseblocker Black Silent Pro 1400rpm fans, the nB eloops I was using werent working for some odd reason.... I heard it was a common issue with these fans when mounted horizontally on a radiator in the fashion I had. I have them mounted now as intake fans in the front of my case, and I love the BSP. good performance and even better acoustics.

Im also going to be upgrading my GPUs to 780tis with the nickelplexi EK blocks, and im going to probably get rid of the bridge terminal and just use fittings. Also im going to get Ram blocks and a vrm block. Before I started this build I wanted to mount the reservoirs on the wall of the chassis, side by side but facing the window. I didnt want to drill however and didnt have the resources or time to figure it out, so now that im going to practically tear it down for these upgrades, im thinking about sending the chassis divider piece to FrozenCPU so they can drill some holes for mounting and some drain port holes as well.

But im not sure now if I want to do that, im really happy with how it looks now and I really dont want to undo all the work I just did, However, the thought of designing the loops how I just described really appeals to me.

Thoughts? thanks









I didnt think much of them at first, but now that they are mounted, I really like the aesthetics of these fans, especially the glossy black. The middle of them when spinning really looks nice, especially under the silver of the radiator.



Its kind of hard to see, but I started using those ModMyToys pcb fan splitters... I cant believe I never noticed them before... The variety they have with these is huge, and they are so cheap. I I was using 3 and 4 split y cables and the clutter was ridiculous... instead I bought 4 of these with the 3 pin power input, and then just ran a female to female cable from each one to a channel on my Aquaero, and they work great.



I want to change my lighting, these LED bars are too aggressive, its just too much light. They highlight every little piece of dirt and dust or fingerprint, and they dont have very good range.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You want Alpenfohn Wing boost 2's?
> 
> You gots em!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PARVUM picked them as the OEM for their fans,very much pleased by this!


When and where can I get them under the Parvum name? Do you think these fans will now come included in some of the Parvum cases?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Awesome z9* board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That 4 pin at the top, does it power your I/O side RAM or the I/O itself?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the n00bness of the question but it's fairly new tech for me and the only stupid question is a question unasked imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well speaking from experience with my CIVF; I found that so long as you can single block it, the MB block is the way to go. Lowered my NB temps nearly 20c from where it hovered around the 60c threshhold. That is entirely way too warm for the health of the MB. I found that I had to file the standoffs to correct the issue but even then it hovered near 50 and went up to 55c when I tried OC'ing my CPU. And that caused a couple of BSODs' while I was still running air over the board. But of course I already had my CPU under water with the H50 and then the EK Supreme so it only made sense to jump on a fresh used block when one became available. My NB temp hovers arround 40c now but it's not up and running atm due to change of tubing type. Can't wait to get FX-8350 or better. Love my Thubbie but I'm liking the idea of an 8 Core CPU on an AM3 Board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, I would say it more or less depends on the layout of your board, the blocks you can get and the functionality of both as necessity or want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This.
> 
> Size of tubing has zero to do with flow rate. That will come from Pump(s) and what kind of travel the coolant has. Less angles means better flow.
> 
> Tubing size is pure aesthetics at this point. Some people like MONDO and some people like skinny. I went with 3/4" cause I like the look and personal feel of it in my case which while ancient is pretty beefy in the interior. Small 3/8" tubing would just look out of place in my HAF. imho. I had to downsize to 5/8" OD because Monsoon doesn't offer 3/4" Hardline. Which of course necessitated a slight change in fittings as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So jelly atm. If yer missin one in the next few days, wasn't me. I swear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, it just depends on the board, when I was on air, it never got dangerously hot, not even close. It's almost as if my chipset block was there for looks. The MOSFET block on the other hand is doing a fantastic job.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> With high rpm fans, they outperform thinner rads. They start outperforming other rads at about 1200rpm. At 600-800 rpm thinner rads actually perform better.
> 
> 
> 
> @Geggeg told me that the Monsta's needs 1500 rpm + to perform as good as other 480 radiators, so I think your theory is a little wrong. I am mostly using it to "fill" the top of my case and I will most likely use Noctua NF-F12's on it with pull, when they are painted white like mine they look good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So jelly atm. If yer missin one in the next few days, wasn't me. I swear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very happy with them after I got them under water, running everything I throw at it at 4K with max settings (have not tried C3 yet, though)
Click to expand...

I could be wrong but you should be able to run 4K with 3. So hep a brutha out.









j/k









Oh an I am running HWL 360 Stealth. Gonna take out the HDD cage soon and then get Phobya Extreme 200. Now that I know what I am gonna do with this Mech War Looking front of my HAF It's gonna be sharp. Gonna take a bit as materials ain't cheap. But it's *finally* gonna get done! Even if I've changed the overall plan a good bit. Still... may yet change it again. The ole planning thing an all.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> @Geggeg told me that the Monsta's needs 1500 rpm + to perform as good as other 480 radiators, so I think your theory is a little wrong.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Take a look at Bundys Rad testing. 800rpm is when they actually start getting ahead.


Depends a lot on the fans used and the rads the Monsta is being compared against. Don't forget Bundy's mostly tested out older designs and has no recent rads in there other than the XSPC RX v3. I also don't think his testing methodology was necessarily the best either but that's just me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> @Geggeg told me that the Monsta's needs 1500 rpm + to perform as good as other 480 radiators, so I think your theory is a little wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Take a look at Bundys Rad testing. 800rpm is when they actually start getting ahead.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Depends a lot on the fans used and the rads the Monsta is being compared against. Don't forget Bundy's mostly tested out older designs and has no recent rads in there other than the XSPC RX v3. I also don't think his testing methodology was necessarily the best either but that's just me.
Click to expand...

While using just an Aquaero is not lab grade,it is consistent in reporting..which is fundamental if you are testing many samples. It is also more Indicative of results you are likely to see with enthusiast kit.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Take a look at Bundys Rad testing. 800rpm is when they actually start getting ahead.


I think you are reading wrong mate. The legend for the graphs are below each one. At 800 rpm the Monsta is still in the middle pack (or the tail of the 1/3 group). Only at 1200 rpm it starts to get on top. Also, remember Bundy only tested one row of fans not push/pull. I suspect with push/pull the Mosnta will work better even at 800 rpm but that is yet to be put it to the test against other newer rads. Notice I am not defending or advocating in favor of the Monsta. Personally I would rather go with xspc rx v3 (much better finishing and less space and looks way better IMHO).


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think you are reading wrong mate. The legend for the graphs are below each one. At 800 rpm the Monsta is still in the middle pack. Only at 1200 rpm it starts to get on top. Also, remember Bundy only tested one row of fans not push/pull. I suspect with push/pull the Mosnta will work better even at 800 rpm but that is yet to be put it to the test against other newer rads. Notice I am not defending or advocating in favor of the Monsta. Personally I would rather go with xspc rx v3 (much better finishing and less space and looks way better IMHO).


Yeah, I was.









Totaly agree, the RXV3 is better overall. But Monsta with AP-15 is a monster, don't know why people say it doesn't perform well.


----------



## VSG

About push-pull: do you guys think that is a critical part of a radiator comparison? I have single side fans only at this moment at 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 and 2220 rpm for the 480mm rads and 700, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 1700 rpm for 560mm rads. I imagine push-pull can be approximated by taking the next higher RPM results in most cases other than the extreme ones of ultralow and high rpms. Push-pull at 600 rpm on a Monsta will likely perform better than just push at 800 RPM for example based on a quick FPM measurement. Any thoughts would be great here.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> About push-pull: do you guys think that is a critical part of a radiator comparison? I have single side fans only at this moment at 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 and 2220 rpm for the 480mm rads and 700, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 1700 rpm for 560mm rads. I imagine push-pull can be approximated by taking the next higher RPM results in most cases other than the extreme ones of ultralow and high rpms. Push-pull at 600 rpm on a Monsta will likely perform better than just push at 800 RPM for example based on a quick FPM measurement. Any thoughts would be great here.


Yeah, it would definitely be important to have someone perform tests not just in push, but also in pull, and push Pull. It's an awful long process, I wouldn't do it u less I was getting paid 

Edit: would be interesting to see if push/pull actually helped thin rads and if it benefits thicker rads in a significant way.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> About push-pull: do you guys think that is a critical part of a radiator comparison? I have single side fans only at this moment at 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 and 2220 rpm for the 480mm rads and 700, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 1700 rpm for 560mm rads. I imagine push-pull can be approximated by taking the next higher RPM results in most cases other than the extreme ones of ultralow and high rpms. Push-pull at 600 rpm on a Monsta will likely perform better than just push at 800 RPM for example based on a quick FPM measurement. Any thoughts would be great here.


Personally I think is a must VSG. A lot of folks use the rads in push/pull to help air flow at low fan speeds to keep noise down. At least that was always my take on. I rather have a powerful and near silent system so I usually keep fans at 400-600 rpm in push/pull. What fans do you need to start doing push/pull? I have some collection of fans that I can loan or even give to you if you are willing to pay for the shipping (which unfortunately from Brazil to US is not that cheap)...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yeah, it would definitely be important to have someone perform tests not just in push, but also in pull, and push Pull. It's an awful long process, I wouldn't do it u less I was getting paid


Hehe I know.. Will from HWL was suggesting I do pull instead of push and I quote "given the proximity of the impeller hub to the core at <5mm sans a plenum, flow equalization through the core blocks that section, which is very substantial." Of course he said that after I was done with the thermals for all these rads I have here








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Personally I think is a must VSG. A lot of folks use the rads in push/pull to help air flow at low fan speeds to keep noise down. At least that was always my take on. I rather have a powerful and near silent system so I usually keep fans at 400-600 rpm in push/pull. What fans do you need to start doing push/pull? I have some collection of fans that I can loan or even give to you if you are willing to pay for the shipping (which unfortunately from Brazil to US is not that cheap)...


I think I will do it when free and update the thread accordingly (which will get updated with more rads as it is). If nothing else, it will be useful to a few people including me who have enough fans to do push-pull.

I have enough fans for push-pull (might need to use a gasket with the eloops in pull though) but the offer is greatly appreciated


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yeah, it would definitely be important to have someone perform tests not just in push, but also in pull, and push Pull. It's an awful long process, I wouldn't do it u less I was getting paid
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe I know.. Will from HWL was suggesting I do pull instead of push and I quote "given the proximity of the impeller hub to the core at <5mm sans a plenum, flow equalization through the core blocks that section, which is very substantial." Of course he said that after I was done with the thermals for all these rads I have here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Personally I think is a must VSG. A lot of folks use the rads in push/pull to help air flow at low fan speeds to keep noise down. At least that was always my take on. I rather have a powerful and near silent system so I usually keep fans at 400-600 rpm in push/pull. What fans do you need to start doing push/pull? I have some collection of fans that I can loan or even give to you if you are willing to pay for the shipping (which unfortunately from Brazil to US is not that cheap)...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think I will do it when free and update the thread accordingly (which will get updated with more rads as it is). If nothing else, it will be useful to a few people including me who have enough fans to do push-pull.
> 
> I have enough fans for push-pull (might need to use a gasket with the eloops in pull though) but the offer is greatly appreciated
Click to expand...

Only problem I have with pull is that the fan will almost always be pushed right against the mesh of the case, so it tends to be louder depending on how restrictive the case mesh is :/


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Only problem I have with pull is that the fan will almost always be pushed right against the mesh of the case, so it tends to be louder depending on how restrictive the case mesh is :/


That's with having the fans on exhaust only, right? I try to always have rad fans on intake.


----------



## Red1776

*A lot of shots have been taken at the Alphacool XT and UT series of rads here. Martins is also one of the most quoted and referenced sites here. I thought this would be a good place to leave this.*

The article in its entirety can be had here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/15/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-360-radiator/4/

Quote: From MARTINSLIQUIDLAB.ORG



> The Alphacool NexXxos UT60 is an exemplary performer having very low restriction and top thermal performance across a very large range of fan speeds, it just doesn't get much better than that. Add to the performance a plethora of features such as the 6 barb ports, drain/fill bottom port, and screw protectors and you have a heck of a radiator. There are a few minor cosmetic details such as easy tarnishing of the copper plugs and the copper foil logo, but nothing significant outside of minor cosmetics. If cost and space is not a major consideration and you simply want minimal restriction, top thermal performance across nearly all RPMs, top quality, and top features&#8230;the UT60 is a perfect "all copper" fit!


Quote:


> Wow, that's impressive, while most of the rads tend to favor performance in one specific area, the UT60 is extremely strong across the range and more of an all around extreme performer. While differences between many are very small, the SR-1 was the only one to show a slight lead over the UT60 and that is only for extremely slow RPM ranges. The UT60's thermal performance is nothing short of amazing!




And he Alphacool Xt45

The article in it's entirety can be had here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/

Quote:From MARTINSLIQUIDLAB.ORG


> The Alphacool NexXxos XT45 is a slimmed down version of the UT60 bringing along most of the same features and performance at a reduce thickness and price. It's an excellent radiator with a slight focus toward lower speed fan optimization. Considering it's higher than average performance and slightly lower than premium price point, this radiator will also likely shine in value. It is 45mm of copper radiator goodness!


Quote:


> With a lightened photo you can get a closer look at the build quality which is extremely consistent and nicely done. About the only quality issue I could comment on is the copper logo on the side wasn't perfectly center/level and slightly wavy with a slightly peeled corner. Also the copper plating on the plugs tends to mark (tarnish) easily with your fingers. That's getting pretty nit picky though as the radiator core and overall construction build quality is excellent!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> About push-pull: do you guys think that is a critical part of a radiator comparison? I have single side fans only at this moment at 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 and 2220 rpm for the 480mm rads and 700, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 1700 rpm for 560mm rads. I imagine push-pull can be approximated by taking the next higher RPM results in most cases other than the extreme ones of ultralow and high rpms. Push-pull at 600 rpm on a Monsta will likely perform better than just push at 800 RPM for example based on a quick FPM measurement. Any thoughts would be great here.


Yes for sure. As is P/P with shroud installed. The further away from the fins the better the cooling imho. My setup is currently only pull but that's due to the placement of the window of my case. Frankly a bigger window and lower down from the top would have been better aesthetically. I want people to *see* that I am watercooling but I don't want my Radiator setup to block the rest of the interior in the Window. Which is maybe ~5" in height. Kinda defeats the purpose of sleeving etc.









But yeah. All aspects *should* be tested imho.

~Ceadder


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Only problem I have with pull is that the fan will almost always be pushed right against the mesh of the case, so it tends to be louder depending on how restrictive the case mesh is :/
> 
> 
> 
> That's with having the fans on exhaust only, right? I try to always have rad fans on intake.
Click to expand...

Basically this setup:


I really should get some black screws to make the top of the case all-black


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

UT60 are also great performers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And he Alphacool Xt45
> The article in it's entirety can be had here:
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You want Alpenfohn Wing boost 2's?
> 
> You gots em!
> 
> 
> 
> PARVUM picked them as the OEM for their fans,very much pleased by this!


So do you have any insight as to wether they'll be available in the US now?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I am on the verge of getting an ST30.
> 
> What do you suggest instead?


If your looking for the thinnest rad you can get, check out the darkside at 28mm HERE If the price is right get whatever rad you like. Just make sure to clean them well as their qc is not on par with other manufacturers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Im also going to be upgrading my GPUs to 780tis


Why aren't you considering the 980's ?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

@Ceadderman

I missed your question about the extra 4 pin on my motherboard. It's just supplemental power for the CPU, for extreme overclocking inder LN2. I plug it in anyways. The board also has a molex connector on the bottom to assist in power delivery to PCIe slots.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> *About push-pull: do you guys think that is a critical part of a radiator comparison*? I have single side fans only at this moment at 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 and 2220 rpm for the 480mm rads and 700, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 1700 rpm for 560mm rads. I imagine push-pull can be approximated by taking the next higher RPM results in most cases other than the extreme ones of ultralow and high rpms. Push-pull at 600 rpm on a Monsta will likely perform better than just push at 800 RPM for example based on a quick FPM measurement. Any thoughts would be great here.


Yes, . . . . It really is . . . along with determining at what point more airflow thru the rad reaches the point of diminishing return, and evaluating how much air each set of fans can move thru the rad.

If you don't have fans that flow very similar amounts of air thru the 120 and 140 sized rads, (since you can't use the same fans for both) then when you compare the 120 sized rad's performance to 140 sized rad's performance, it becomes apples to oranges.

A good while back I did some testing to see if using a 32 or 38mm thick fan would move somewhere near as much air thru some rads as P-P 25mm fans. I confined my 32 and 38mm fans to ones below ~3400 rpm max, as even that's wayyy too loud, even to me.

I was testing because I was building in a case with very limited room up top, and P-P would only allow a 30MM rad, where a 32 or 38mm fan would allow more.

The one thing that I found conclusively, was that P-P moves demonstrably more air thru a rad than either one alone, . . . and that's regardless of the fan . . better fans moved more air than crappier ones, but 2 of a kind always beats just 1, and by significant amounts.

Generally, I could get about as much flow at about 1000 rpm in PP as at about 1700 with a single fan . . . depending on the rad.

If quiet when you want it, and performance when you need it, is your goal, PP is the ONLY way to go.

The testing was pretty simple, in that I used a fan in passive mode, no power applied, and just measured the rpm it would spin, (using its tach circuit) as the airflow of the fans being tested made the blades spin.

The more airflow thru the rad, the faster it spins. . . . Here's a little review of the difference between single fan and PP:

Here's a 45mm Alphacool rad with a single 25mm Silverstone in push . . . the display reads 22.8 Hz, so multiply that by 30 for actual RPM . .~700rpm



Add a second Silverstone for PP, and 40.1 Hz, or 1200rpm:



The results were very similar with a thicker, higher fpi HWL GT-X: . . . single fan at just over 600 rpm about 100 rpm less than the Acool 45



PP fans and just short of 1200 rpm: . . . Interesting to note here, that with PP, even the thicker, higher fpi, GTX flowed just about as much air as the Acool 45, though it was about 100 rpm less in single fan.
Higher fpi really responds well to PP.



Some fans, with generally positive reputations, (at least at the time) turned out to be decidedly underserving of them . . . . which really shows how much variation between testers can be accounted for by the fans they used . . . . .

Here's PP Corsair SPs . . these things are supposed to be hi SP for rads, and they are loud . . . even to my deaf ears: 2 in PP barely beats the single siverstone . . .



The B Gears Blasters (140 sized fans) were pretty popular, and often recommended, with similar blade surface area to the Akasas

They did NOT live up to their hype . . . A pair in PP on a GT-X, and barely broke the 600 rpm point



And a pair of the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex fans, getting 830 rpm from the passive test fan . . . about 35% better than what was supposed to already be "good":



And incase you're still following and wondered what won the shootout of the 140 sized fans . . . . The San Ace 1900 rpm, 38mm fans did . . actually, a very acceptable sound level, especially for the amount of air they moved

Almost 1300 rpm on the passive fan in PP on a GT-X:



Darlene


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Why aren't you considering the 980's ?


Ill save close to 300$ with the 780tis for virtually the same performance


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Will one D5 pump be enough for 2x Bitspower Z-Multi 250, 2x 480 Monsta, EK-Supremacy and EK-FB ASUS R4BE? Or should I run with two D5's for that setup?

Which of the Flow sensors/meters should I get for a system like that, this one: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294 or this one: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1655 ?


----------



## VSG

Darlene, companies should pay you to test things for them given the experience, expertise and equipment you have









At this point I am keeping the 480s and 560s separate for a good reason- I don't have the same rad in both sizes to compare airflow and liquid restriction with. That will soon change though (hopefully).

Your fan results remind me of a discussion on the OcUK forums by one of their product specialists who was testing out various fans to seek out a suitable replacement for the GT AP-15 and came up with a custom version of the Silverstone SST-FQ121 fan: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18623130


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Will one D5 pump be enough for 2x Bitspower Z-Multi 250, 2x 480 Monsta, EK-Supremacy and EK-FB ASUS R4BE? Or should I run with two D5's for that setup?
> 
> Which of the Flow sensors/meters should I get for a system like that, this one: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294 or this one: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1655 ?


Just to understand: Why two reservoirs for a single pump? Also, define what are your expectations. What do you call enough? If can handle minimally at a reasonable flow rate?

about the flow meters I would stay away from both. You can read more here but they are fairly restrictive:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

and here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/210

where I measure a 0.43 GPM drop in flow rate in a test loop with and without the USB flow meter (same thing you linked above which is the non-usb variant). I am personally moving to the MPS 400 (very low restriction) but it does need to be calibrated to the fittings you are using...

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/

hope it helps


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . . It really is . . . along with determining at what point more airflow thru the rad reaches the point of diminishing return, and evaluating how much air each set of fans can move thru the rad.
> 
> If you don't have fans that flow very similar amounts of air thru the 120 and 140 sized rads, (since you can't use the same fans for both) then when you compare the 120 sized rad's performance to 140 sized rad's performance, it becomes apples to oranges.
> 
> A good while back I did some testing to see if using a 32 or 38mm thick fan would move somewhere near as much air thru some rads as P-P 25mm fans. I confined my 32 and 38mm fans to ones below ~3400 rpm max, as even that's wayyy too loud, even to me.
> 
> I was testing because I was building in a case with very limited room up top, and P-P would only allow a 30MM rad, where a 32 or 38mm fan would allow more.
> 
> The one thing that I found conclusively, was that P-P moves demonstrably more air thru a rad than either one alone, . . . and that's regardless of the fan . . better fans moved more air than crappier ones, but 2 of a kind always beats just 1, and by significant amounts.
> 
> Generally, I could get about as much flow at about 1000 rpm in PP as at about 1700 with a single fan . . . depending on the rad.
> 
> If quiet when you want it, and performance when you need it, is your goal, PP is the ONLY way to go.
> 
> The testing was pretty simple, in that I used a fan in passive mode, no power applied, and just measured the rpm it would spin, (using its tach circuit) as the airflow of the fans being tested made the blades spin.
> 
> The more airflow thru the rad, the faster it spins. . . . Here's a little review of the difference between single fan and PP:
> 
> Here's a 45mm Alphacool rad with a single 25mm Silverstone in push . . . the display reads 22.8 Hz, so multiply that by 30 for actual RPM . .~700rpm
> 
> 
> 
> Add a second Silverstone for PP, and 40.1 Hz, or 1200rpm:
> 
> 
> 
> The results were very similar with a thicker, higher fpi HWL GT-X: . . . single fan at just over 600 rpm about 100 rpm less than the Acool 45
> 
> 
> 
> PP fans and just short of 1200 rpm: . . . Interesting to note here, that with PP, even the thicker, higher fpi, GTX flowed just about as much air as the Acool 45, though it was about 100 rpm less in single fan.
> Higher fpi really responds well to PP.
> 
> 
> 
> Some fans, with generally positive reputations, (at least at the time) turned out to be decidedly underserving of them . . . . which really shows how much variation between testers can be accounted for by the fans they used . . . . .
> 
> Here's PP Corsair SPs . . these things are supposed to be hi SP for rads, and they are loud . . . even to my deaf ears: 2 in PP barely beats the single siverstone . . .
> 
> 
> 
> The B Gears Blasters (140 sized fans) were pretty popular, and often recommended, with similar blade surface area to the Akasas
> 
> They did NOT live up to their hype . . . A pair in PP on a GT-X, and barely broke the 600 rpm point
> 
> 
> 
> And a pair of the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex fans, getting 830 rpm from the passive test fan . . . about 35% better than what was supposed to already be "good":
> 
> 
> 
> And incase you're still following and wondered what won the shootout of the 140 sized fans . . . . The San Ace 1900 rpm, 38mm fans did . . actually, a very acceptable sound level, especially for the amount of air they moved
> 
> Almost 1300 rpm on the passive fan in PP on a GT-X:






Darlene

Shouldn't there be more space between fans to test them in push pull? Otherwise they will basically only perform as good as the front fan? Tiny Tom Logan only got a 2 degree difference by stacking 40 fans on a h100i.


----------



## VSG

That flow meter isn't terribly restrictive at the flowrates most people use, especially compared to waterblocks and certain rads. I wouldn't discount it if the pump being used is capable.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That flow meter isn't terribly restrictive at the flowrates most people use, especially compared to waterblocks and certain rads. I wouldn't discount it if the pump being used is capable.


It is more restrictive that a MIPS cpu block so to me it adds quite some restriction but the links to the tests are there. You and @Gobigorgohome or whoever wants could go there and check the numbers and form his own mind about it. Just giving my







while linking to the tests done by @fast_fate and I.

EDIT - another alternative might the koolance flow meter:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/10#post_22571713


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Darlene, companies should pay you to test things for them given the experience, expertise and equipment you have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be nice if they would, but I shoot from the hip and don't sugar coat shinola very well.
> 
> If it's lame, I say it's lame, not that it just needs a little tweaking.
> 
> At this point I am keeping the 480s and 560s separate for a good reason- I don't have the same rad in both sizes to compare airflow and liquid restriction with. That will soon change though (hopefully).
> 
> Reason I brought it up, was that if you have better fans on the 480's than the 560's, then there will appear to be no advantage to a 560 over a 480, when with equal airflow, there really is.
> 
> If you have very good fans on the 560's and lesser fans on the 480's, then the apparent advantage of the 560s will be very much exaggerated.
> 
> Your testing is likely to influence whether some guys step up from 480s to 560s, or 360's to 420's, so it's nice if it really can be as much about the rads themselves, and as little about the fans, as possible.
> 
> Your fan results remind me of a discussion on the OcUK forums by one of their product specialists who was testing out various fans to seek out a suitable replacement for the GT AP-15 and came up with a custom version of the Silverstone SST-FQ121 fan: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18623130


I'll have to have a look.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . . It really is . . . along with determining at what point more airflow thru the rad reaches the point of diminishing return, and evaluating how much air each set of fans can move thru the rad.
> 
> If you don't have fans that flow very similar amounts of air thru the 120 and 140 sized rads, (since you can't use the same fans for both) then when you compare the 120 sized rad's performance to 140 sized rad's performance, it becomes apples to oranges.
> 
> A good while back I did some testing to see if using a 32 or 38mm thick fan would move somewhere near as much air thru some rads as P-P 25mm fans. I confined my 32 and 38mm fans to ones below ~3400 rpm max, as even that's wayyy too loud, even to me.
> 
> I was testing because I was building in a case with very limited room up top, and P-P would only allow a 30MM rad, where a 32 or 38mm fan would allow more.
> 
> The one thing that I found conclusively, was that P-P moves demonstrably more air thru a rad than either one alone, . . . and that's regardless of the fan . . better fans moved more air than crappier ones, but 2 of a kind always beats just 1, and by significant amounts.
> 
> Generally, I could get about as much flow at about 1000 rpm in PP as at about 1700 with a single fan . . . depending on the rad.
> 
> If quiet when you want it, and performance when you need it, is your goal, PP is the ONLY way to go.
> 
> The testing was pretty simple, in that I used a fan in passive mode, no power applied, and just measured the rpm it would spin, (using its tach circuit) as the airflow of the fans being tested made the blades spin.
> 
> The more airflow thru the rad, the faster it spins. . . . Here's a little review of the difference between single fan and PP:
> 
> Here's a 45mm Alphacool rad with a single 25mm Silverstone in push . . . the display reads 22.8 Hz, so multiply that by 30 for actual RPM . .~700rpm
> 
> 
> 
> Add a second Silverstone for PP, and 40.1 Hz, or 1200rpm:
> 
> 
> 
> The results were very similar with a thicker, higher fpi HWL GT-X: . . . single fan at just over 600 rpm about 100 rpm less than the Acool 45
> 
> 
> 
> PP fans and just short of 1200 rpm: . . . Interesting to note here, that with PP, even the thicker, higher fpi, GTX flowed just about as much air as the Acool 45, though it was about 100 rpm less in single fan.
> Higher fpi really responds well to PP.
> 
> 
> 
> Some fans, with generally positive reputations, (at least at the time) turned out to be decidedly underserving of them . . . . which really shows how much variation between testers can be accounted for by the fans they used . . . . .
> 
> Here's PP Corsair SPs . . these things are supposed to be hi SP for rads, and they are loud . . . even to my deaf ears: 2 in PP barely beats the single siverstone . . .
> 
> 
> 
> The B Gears Blasters (140 sized fans) were pretty popular, and often recommended, with similar blade surface area to the Akasas
> 
> They did NOT live up to their hype . . . A pair in PP on a GT-X, and barely broke the 600 rpm point
> 
> 
> 
> And a pair of the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex fans, getting 830 rpm from the passive test fan . . . about 35% better than what was supposed to already be "good":
> 
> 
> 
> And incase you're still following and wondered what won the shootout of the 140 sized fans . . . . The San Ace 1900 rpm, 38mm fans did . . actually, a very acceptable sound level, especially for the amount of air they moved
> 
> Almost 1300 rpm on the passive fan in PP on a GT-X:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Shouldn't there be more space between fans to test them in push pull? Otherwise they will basically only perform as good as the front fan? Tiny Tom Logan only got a 2 degree difference by stacking 40 fans on a h100i.

That's because there is a point of diminishing return with airflow thru the rad . . . and the thinner the rad, the sooner you reach it, . . . all else being equal.

That's also irrelevant, as I think you are not visualizing the test setup correctly.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







[/


quote]

The PP fans are one on each side of the rad . . . where you see 2 fans on one side, the inner one is the passive fan being used to measure the airflow.

The Silverstones are white, so where there's a single white fan on one side, the other side fan is the passive one . . actually, the passive one is the one on the left against the rad in all those pics.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is more restrictive that a MIPS cpu block so to me it adds quite some restriction but the links to the tests are there. You and @Gobigorgohome or whoever wants could go there and check the numbers and form his own mind about it. Just giving my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> while linking to the tests done by @fast_fate and I.
> 
> EDIT - another alternative might the koolance flow meter:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/10#post_22571713


Fair enough, and that Koolance unit is definitely a good alternative for sure- especially if not tied in to an Aquaero









I guess I am coming from the point of view where having quad rads (especially some whose restrictions I already know) and multiple component blocks makes the added restriction of that flowmeter not a whole lot in comparison. But yeah- everyone should make up their own mind from the test results









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'll have to have a look.
> 
> Darlene


Agreed. The 120mm fans used are several different NB-eloops and the 140mm fans used are different NB-Blacksilent Pros with each fan type used for a different RPM (ex: B12-1 fans for 800 rpm on the 480s) to remove the slightest possibility of undervolting bringing out any possibly variation across runs as much as possible. In some cases requested by the rad manufacturers, I had no choice but to undervolt some fans accordingly but chose the closest one to do so. Once the 480GTX gets here I can check and see how the airflow with the fans is on the 480 vs 560 at the same speeds.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0fwvqz1ex9y8cc8/20141016_184451.jpg?dl=0
my new fan controller for those high rpm GTs I am looking at
40A max


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shouldn't there be more space between fans to test them in push pull? Otherwise they will basically only perform as good as the front fan? Tiny Tom Logan only got a 2 degree difference by stacking 40 fans on a h100i.
> 
> That's because there is a point of diminishing return with airflow thru the rad . . . and the thinner the rad, the sooner you reach it, . . . all else being equal.
> 
> That's also irrelevant, as I think you are not visualizing the test setup correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/
> 
> 
> quote]
> 
> T*he PP fans are one on each side of the rad* . . . where you see 2 fans on one side, the inner one is the passive fan being used to measure the airflow.
> 
> The Silverstones are white, so where there's a single white fan on one side, the other side fan is the passive one . . actually, the passive one is the one on the left against the rad in all those pics.
> 
> Darlene


That's exactly what I mean, they are so close together, that the second fan kinda cancels itself out, so it will perform almost like a single fan.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Fair enough, and that Koolance unit is definitely a good alternative for sure- especially if not tied in to an Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I am coming from the point of view where having quad rads (especially some whose restrictions I already know) and multiple component blocks makes the added restriction of that flowmeter not a whole lot in comparison. But yeah- everyone should make up their own mind from the test results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. The 120mm fans used are several different NB-eloops and the 140mm fans used are different NB-Blacksilent Pros with each fan used for a different RPM to remove the slightest possibility of undervolting bringing out any possibly variation across runs as much as possible. In some cases requested by the rad manufacturers, I had no choice but to undervolt some fans accordingly but chose the closest one to do so. Once the 480GTX gets here I can check and see how the airflow with the fans is on the 480 vs 560 at the same speeds.












One more test I forgot. This is the drop in flow with a single d5 running at 60% for the MIPS and EK supremacy. So not a terrible speed to run a single d5:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/210#post_22702364

So the Aq high (cough*cough







)-flow meter equal the drop of a EK supremacy cpu block and is actually higher that the MIPS block. I suspect the other one he linked is even worse since it have a small diameter for the fittings/ water channel:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1655


----------



## tatmMRKIV

how does it measure airflow though?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shouldn't there be more space between fans to test them in push pull? Otherwise they will basically only perform as good as the front fan? Tiny Tom Logan only got a 2 degree difference by stacking 40 fans on a h100i.
> 
> That's because there is a point of diminishing return with airflow thru the rad . . . and the thinner the rad, the sooner you reach it, . . . all else being equal.
> 
> That's also irrelevant, as I think you are not visualizing the test setup correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/
> 
> 
> quote]
> 
> T*he PP fans are one on each side of the rad* . . . where you see 2 fans on one side, the inner one is the passive fan being used to measure the airflow.
> 
> The Silverstones are white, so where there's a single white fan on one side, the other side fan is the passive one . . actually, the passive one is the one on the left against the rad in all those pics.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I mean, they are so close together, that the second fan kinda cancels itself out, so it will perform almost like a single fan.
Click to expand...

The PP fans are on each side of the rad . . . . that's what PP means . . one pushes into the rad, the other pulls out of the rad.

The 3rd fan, the one that's not powered, but is used to measure the airflow by how fast it spins, seems to be confusing you.

In the pics with only 2 fans . . . that's NOT PP, it's a push fan on the right, and the passive fan measuring air out of the rad on the left.

The PP setups have 2 fans on the left, as well as the one on the right . . the inner one on the left is the airflow measuring fan.

The RPM's I was talking about in the pics, was Not the speed of the rad fans, it was the speed of the airflow measuring fan being spun by the air flowing thru it. The RPM of that fan is proportional to the airflow.

Darlene


----------



## tatmMRKIV

how do you estimate the proportion though?
(sorry for questions, I am interested)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PP fans are on each side of the rad . . . . that's what PP means . . one pushes into the rad, the other pulls out of the rad.
> 
> The 3rd fan, the one that's not powered, but is used to measure the airflow by how fast it spins, seems to be confusing you.
> 
> In the pics with only 2 fans . . . that's NOT PP, it's a push fan on the right, and the passive fan measuring air out of the rad on the left.
> 
> The PP setups have 2 fans on the left, as well as the one on the right . . the inner one on the left is the airflow measuring fan.
> 
> The RPM's I was talking about in the pics, was Not the speed of the rad fans, it was the speed of the airflow measuring fan being spun by the air flowing thru it. The RPM of that fan is proportional to the airflow.
> 
> Darlene


So, on each side of the rad, there are to active fans, and on one of the pics there is a rad with 2 fans on one side and 1 on the other. One of those fans is used passively to measure airflow.

Thats what I understand, from what you are explaining

Now, what I'm saying is that having fans so close to each other, even if one is passive and used to measure air flow, negates the second working fan. My suggestion for a more clear performance test would be having the passive fan sandwiched between the 2 active fans and with added restriction. For example, An active fan in push>fan filter> 5mm porous foam>*passive fan*> 5mm porous foam fan grille and second active fan in pull. Anything that adds resistance, just an idea.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> how do you estimate the proportion though?
> (sorry for questions, I am interested)


Given an initial amount of flow required to overcome stiction, if the measuring fan speed doubles, it means about twice the airflow, if it goes up 50% from one fan to another, it means the second one delivers half again the airflow of the first.

It's a relative way to evaluate different fans and different rads . . . as long as the same measuring fan is used all the time, how fast it spins in any setup is an indication of how much air flow that setup has compared to the others tested the same way.

There is no way to figure flow in CFM or static pressure in mmH2O with such a setup, so it's not something I could compare to someone else's tests, but it tells me quite reliably which fans move what amounts of air, in relation to other fans, on a given rad setup.

If I had a bunch of additional test gear, I could compute real cfm and have universally useful numbers, but for personal testing, that's just not needed.

Just the relative indication of what fans moved more or less air than the others is all I was looking for.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PP fans are on each side of the rad . . . . that's what PP means . . one pushes into the rad, the other pulls out of the rad.
> 
> The 3rd fan, the one that's not powered, but is used to measure the airflow by how fast it spins, seems to be confusing you.
> 
> In the pics with only 2 fans . . . that's NOT PP, it's a push fan on the right, and the passive fan measuring air out of the rad on the left.
> 
> The PP setups have 2 fans on the left, as well as the one on the right . . the inner one on the left is the airflow measuring fan.
> 
> The RPM's I was talking about in the pics, was Not the speed of the rad fans, it was the speed of the airflow measuring fan being spun by the air flowing thru it. The RPM of that fan is proportional to the airflow.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> So, on each side of the rad, there are to active fans, and on one of the pics there is a rad with 2 fans on one side and 1 on the other. One of those fans is used passively to measure airflow.
> 
> Thats what I understand, from what you are explaining
> 
> *Now, what I'm saying is that having fans so close to each other, even if one is passive and used to measure air flow, negates the second working fan*. My suggestion for a more clear performance test would be having the passive fan sandwiched between the 2 active fans and with added restriction. For example, An active fan in push>fan filter> 5mm porous foam>*passive fan*> 5mm porous foam fan grille and second active fan in pull. Anything that adds resistance, just an idea.
Click to expand...

No , not at all . .

The passive fan doesn't negate it at all . . .

The fact that the airflow nearly doubled between a single push fan and then adding the pull fan immediately after the passive fan is pretty conclusive that nothing is negated.

D.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No , not at all . .
> 
> The passive fan doesn't negate it at all . . .
> 
> The fact that the airflow nearly doubled between a single push fan and then adding the pull fan immediately after the passive fan is pretty conclusive that nothing is negated.
> 
> D.


Gotcha, they key is to use fans that actually work in push pull. Somewhere in your post you mentioned a single Silverstone fan performing almost as good as 2 SP120 fans in push pull. So, 2 SP barely improved airflow, while 2 Silverstone nearly doubled air flow.

Thanks for clearing that up, at one point the method just didn't make any sense.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> About push-pull: do you guys think that is a critical part of a radiator comparison? I have single side fans only at this moment at 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 and 2220 rpm for the 480mm rads and 700, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 1700 rpm for 560mm rads. I imagine push-pull can be approximated by taking the next higher RPM results in most cases other than the extreme ones of ultralow and high rpms. Push-pull at 600 rpm on a Monsta will likely perform better than just push at 800 RPM for example based on a quick FPM measurement. Any thoughts would be great here.


I would love to see such information, and would consider it critical. At least one of the builds I'm planning to do over the next year will have a push/pull setup, and I'm especially curious as to how things would look at the slower speeds.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I would love to see such information, and would consider it critical. At least one of the builds I'm planning to do over the next year will have a push/pull setup, and I'm especially curious as to how things would look at the slower speeds.


Yeah that seems like the general consensus also. I will get to it in my free time but not immediately


----------



## Fuzzysham

My first attempt at building a custom water cooled rig. It didn't turn out that bad surprisingly.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzysham*
> 
> My first attempt at building a custom water cooled rig. It didn't turn out that bad surprisingly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, I like it


----------



## Fuzzysham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Very nice, I like it


Thanks. I was concerned for a while because I mostly planned it in my head. Worked OK I guess.

My friend (caymandive) on here is going down the slippery slope of PC upgrades. After he helped build my rig above, he ordered his stuff the next day. This hobby, like headphones, is dangerous on wallets. Next weekend we build his which should be fun.


----------



## salted_cashews

So I have a question for some of the more informed members who participate in this thread.

I am currently running 2 480 rads in push/pull with AP15s (3 pin), I have these hooked up to a 4 way splitter for each side of the rad(this one) which I have connected to molex and a phobya (sorry) fan controller.

Any adjustment I make to the fan speed with the controller does nothing.

Is this because I have them sucking molex power, or is the controller not enough to modulate them (specs are 20 per channel I think)?

I'd like to daisy chain them and get an aquaero 6 eventually but for the time being this is what I'm having to live with and it sounds like a jet.

The 980 maxes out at 40 with 28 ambient though which is nice lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

People seem to be under the assumption that stacking fans increases CFM,this is not the case,stacking fans increases pressure...having fans in a parallel setup increases cfm.
This was a common trick many years ago of increasing performance of tiny fans on heatsinks.

You can only shift as much air as the fan design can produce when stacked.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salted_cashews*
> 
> So I have a question for some of the more informed members who participate in this thread.
> 
> I am currently running 2 480 rads in push/pull with AP15s (3 pin), I have these hooked up to a 4 way splitter for each side of the rad(this one) which I have connected to molex and a phobya (sorry) fan controller.
> 
> Any adjustment I make to the fan speed with the controller does nothing.
> 
> Is this because I have them sucking molex power, or is the controller not enough to modulate them (specs are 20 per channel I think)?
> 
> I'd like to daisy chain them and get an aquaero 6 eventually but for the time being this is what I'm having to live with and it sounds like a jet.
> 
> The 980 maxes out at 40 with 28 ambient though which is nice lol.


yeah, its the molex thats impeding it.

I have an Aquaero 6 XT and I have every channel hooked up through 3 pin female to female cables, which are connected to Modmytoys PCBs. They work fantastic, total control.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzysham*
> 
> Thanks. I was concerned for a while because I mostly planned it in my head. Worked OK I guess.
> 
> My friend (caymandive) on here is going down the slippery slope of PC upgrades. After he helped build my rig above, he ordered his stuff the next day. This hobby, like headphones, is dangerous on wallets. Next weekend we build his which should be fun.


Yeah, most hobbies are expensive, but audio is one of those that can get ugly expensive if you have the cash of course. There is like no limit to what components can cost, 20K for a set of floor speakers and what not. The trick is to have fun and enjoy your hobby, I love gaming, PC building and water cooling. Any how good luck with your friends project.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salted_cashews*
> 
> So I have a question for some of the more informed members who participate in this thread.
> 
> I am currently running 2 480 rads in push/pull with AP15s (3 pin), I have these hooked up to a 4 way splitter for each side of the rad(this one) which I have connected to molex and a phobya (sorry) fan controller.
> 
> Any adjustment I make to the fan speed with the controller does nothing.
> 
> Is this because I have them sucking molex power, or is the controller not enough to modulate them (specs are 20 per channel I think)?
> 
> I'd like to daisy chain them and get an aquaero 6 eventually but for the time being this is what I'm having to live with and it sounds like a jet.
> 
> The 980 maxes out at 40 with 28 ambient though which is nice lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> yeah, its the molex thats impeding it.
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6 XT and I have every channel hooked up through 3 pin female to female cables, which are connected to Modmytoys PCBs. They work fantastic, total control.


I'm also running 2 480s and AP15s 3pin. I use THIS and hook it up to one of the channels on the fan conroller, and works perfectly fine. You're just using the wrong fan splitter. I also have a few of the ones Nichismo is using, and some of those PCBs come with an LED resistor and plugs in case you want to also want to control LEds. If you go with those, you will need a set of Female - female 3 pin extensions.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No , not at all . .
> 
> The passive fan doesn't negate it at all . . .
> 
> The fact that the airflow nearly doubled between a single push fan and then adding the pull fan immediately after the passive fan is pretty conclusive that nothing is negated.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Gotcha, *they key is to use fans that actually work in push pull. Somewhere in your post you mentioned a single Silverstone fan performing almost as good as 2 SP120 fans in push pull. So, 2 SP barely improved airflow, while 2 Silverstone nearly doubled air flow.
> *
> Thanks for clearing that up, at one point the method just didn't make any sense.
Click to expand...

Nooooo, the take away point is that for any kind of fan, they ALWAYS move significantly more air in PP than in either push or pull alone.

The pic of the Corsair SPs was showing that even the pair of them, was far below what they are reputed to deliver, and that a single Silverstone, which is about the same max rpm, moved nearly as much air thru the rad as the PP SPs.

A single SP is proportionately dismal: only slightly over 400rpm from the measuring fan, . . . the single Silverstone beat it by ~ 50% . . . about the same percentage it was beat by PP Silverstones, so everything seems to scale pretty linearly.



D.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> People seem to be under the assumption that stacking fans increases CFM,this is not the case,stacking fans increases pressure...having fans in a parallel setup increases cfm.
> This was a common trick many years ago of increasing performance of tiny fans on heatsinks.
> 
> *You can only shift as much air as the fan design can produce when stacked*.


^^^^^^^^^ Exactly This . . . .

You can actually figure what the maximum possible, (assuming no blade inefficiency) CFM at any RPM is, if you compute the swept area of the blade, and know its pitch. Those factors are related and determine what the max CFM can be.

No matter how many fans you stack, those factors stay the same, so all you gain is more SP because the blade efficiency goes up since there's more blades sharing the same task of moving a predetermined amount of air per revolution.

D.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just to understand: Why two reservoirs for a single pump? Also, define what are your expectations. What do you call enough? If can handle minimally at a reasonable flow rate?
> 
> about the flow meters I would stay away from both. You can read more here but they are fairly restrictive:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread
> 
> and here
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/210
> 
> where I measure a 0.43 GPM drop in flow rate in a test loop with and without the USB flow meter (same thing you linked above which is the non-usb variant). I am personally moving to the MPS 400 (very low restriction) but it does need to be calibrated to the fittings you are using...
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/
> 
> hope it helps


Only reason I want to go with dual reservoirs is because I got the XL-window for the LD Cooling PC-V8 and I want to have dual reservoirs. I can see how this is confusing only using one pump, but with dual pumps it is very practical and an easy way to get rid of all air.









I looked over some of the threads and I got a bit confused by all the charts, when it comes to flow meters the real duel for me is between the Koolance and the two Aquacomputer: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/0_100#post_22571713 post #18. Which one have the lowest restriction and will be the best to use? There is no mention of "higher is bad", "lower is better" or something.

From what I can make out of that chart is that the Koolance flow meter is the better choice, both the Aquacomputer ones is more expensive none the less. What do you think?

I looked at the chart with the single D5 loop also, where the flow was going through the EK-Supreme. If the 2x Monsta 480's is not too restrictive I should be good with one D5 pump for only CPU, Mosfet and Chipset, right?

My other loop is the 2x MO-RA3 loops, which IT Diva told me that I should run in parallel instead of series (like I do now) because of the restriction and that I added a flow meter to see the flow rate in that loop. Now that loop will be seriously changed, from CPU, Mosfet, Chipset, 2x EK-Dominator + 4x R9 290X's to only 4x R9 290X's, the rest of that loop is 2x EK-D5 X-Res with dual D5's.

Should I just forget about the D5's and get better pumps, with higher flow?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just to understand: Why two reservoirs for a single pump? Also, define what are your expectations. What do you call enough? If can handle minimally at a reasonable flow rate?
> 
> about the flow meters I would stay away from both. You can read more here but they are fairly restrictive:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread
> 
> and here
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/210
> 
> where I measure a 0.43 GPM drop in flow rate in a test loop with and without the USB flow meter (same thing you linked above which is the non-usb variant). I am personally moving to the MPS 400 (very low restriction) but it does need to be calibrated to the fittings you are using...
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/
> 
> hope it helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only reason I want to go with dual reservoirs is because I got the XL-window for the LD Cooling PC-V8 and I want to have dual reservoirs. I can see how this is confusing only using one pump, but with dual pumps it is very practical and an easy way to get rid of all air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I looked over some of the threads and I got a bit confused by all the charts, when it comes to flow meters the real duel for me is between the Koolance and the two Aquacomputer: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/0_100#post_22571713 post #18. Which one have the lowest restriction and will be the best to use? There is no mention of "higher is bad", "lower is better" or something.
> 
> From what I can make out of that chart is that the Koolance flow meter is the better choice, both the Aquacomputer ones is more expensive none the less. What do you think?
> 
> I looked at the chart with the single D5 loop also, where the flow was going through the EK-Supreme. If the 2x Monsta 480's is not too restrictive I should be good with one D5 pump for only CPU, Mosfet and Chipset, right?
> 
> My other loop is the 2x MO-RA3 loops, which IT Diva told me that I should run in parallel instead of series (like I do now) because of the restriction and that I added a flow meter to see the flow rate in that loop. Now that loop will be seriously changed, from CPU, Mosfet, Chipset, 2x EK-Dominator + 4x R9 290X's to only 4x R9 290X's, the rest of that loop is 2x EK-D5 X-Res with dual D5's.
> 
> Should I just forget about the D5's and get better pumps, with higher flow?
Click to expand...

It sounds like you're planning 2 loops, . . . . 1 for the mobo related items using 2X 480's, . . . and one for the four GPUs, . . using the 2X MORAs . . . . is that the plan?

If it is, I don't see a problem with it.

A single D5 for each loop should be fine, use 2 flow meters, one in each loop.

The Koolance flow meters are plenty accurate for what you're using them for, and their standalone capability can be a big plus.

D.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It sounds like you're planning 2 loops, . . . . 1 for the mobo related items using 2X 480's, . . . and one for the four GPUs, . . using the 2X MORAs . . . . is that the plan?
> 
> If it is, I don't see a problem with it.
> 
> A single D5 for each loop should be fine, use 2 flow meters, one in each loop.
> 
> The Koolance flow meters are plenty accurate for what you're using them for, and their standalone capability can be a big plus.
> 
> D.


Yes, you got it right.

I will use one D5 for the CPU and MB (because I have it and a top on it's way)
Then I use the dual D5's just as they are now, only in parallel (or could I still be using them in series?)

The Koolance Flow meter it is.

Thanks again.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It sounds like you're planning 2 loops, . . . . 1 for the mobo related items using 2X 480's, . . . and one for the four GPUs, . . using the 2X MORAs . . . . is that the plan?
> 
> If it is, I don't see a problem with it.
> 
> A single D5 for each loop should be fine, use 2 flow meters, one in each loop.
> 
> The Koolance flow meters are plenty accurate for what you're using them for, and their standalone capability can be a big plus.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you got it right.
> 
> I will use one D5 for the CPU and MB (because I have it and a top on it's way)
> Then I use the dual D5's just as they are now, only in parallel (or could I still be using them in series?)
> 
> The Koolance Flow meter it is.
> 
> Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Never use pumps in parallel . . . . there's no gain of any kind that comes from it. . . .









ALWAYS go with series when using multiple pumps. . . .









I assume then that you want 1 res for the single D5 and the other res for the dual pair? . . .

Or are you looking at 3 res's, one for each pump?

D.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> With high rpm fans, they outperform thinner rads. They start outperforming other rads at about 1200rpm. At 600-800 rpm thinner rads actually perform better.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but at the point of the Monsta outperforming other radiators, you also have the considerably thinner RXv3 performing on par with the Monsta. And that radiator is good at all fan RPMs, and doesn't have nearly as much space constriction as a Monsta radiator in your case. And it is a FAR cleaner radiator compared to Alphastool products. Oh, AND the RXv3 is cheaper. There really isn't a single case where you should go with an Alphastool Monsta vs at least an RXv3.
Click to expand...

If only the XSPC rad had ports on top and bottom like Alphacool. The benefits of being able to use the opposite side ports for fill and drain locations is the major selling point for me. I especially like being able to fill my entire loop up completely in one go so there's no bleeding to have to do besides open up the res one more time a day or so later to top it off from the few air bubbles it managed to catch. I've been spoiled on top-facing fill ports on a top rad and a bottom facing drain port on the bottom rad to the point I don't even seriously consider any rad without them any more even if it did majorly outperform it for half the price it wouldn't be worth it to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> I've now on the 10th Monsta rad. Luve'em myself personally, except the thorough cleaning they need thanks to Alphacool's lack of doing so. Not sure where you got it that "the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling" though. Somewhere between 800rpms and 1200rpms with a single set of fans (a little lower rpms in push-pull, which is the only way to run Monstas anywho imho) the Monsta starts to perform quite well comparatively ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Bundy's test results:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> [...] *Test-Results:*
> 
> Delta-T - Difference between air and water temperature. Lower = better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 600 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 800 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 1200 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 1500 rpm. - i used fans from Phobya* [...]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeesh, that doesn't look good IMO.
> 
> All worse than thinner rads, most noticeably the RX360 - until you hit fan speeds where fan-noise will be too loud.
> Yeah, I would still say that thickness has very little effect on cooling compared to adding length or width.
Click to expand...

You misunderstand it then. Bundy's testing shows the Monsta starts to outperform all other rads somewhere between 800rpm and 1200 rpms, and that's with a single set of fans. Does the Monsta start to pull ahead at 900rpms? 1000rpms? 1100rpms? One can only speculate at exactly what point between 800rpms and 1200rpms the Monsta pulls ahead in that test but it's somewhere in there that it does. Even at 1200rpms that's not a loud fan speed unless maybe you have some really crummy fans, and again, that's with a single set of fans.

With fans in push-pull, which benefits all rads' performance significantly but even more so with thicker rads, the Monsta will similarly begin to outperform all other rads at even lower fan speeds than that. Push-Pull is the only way a rad as thick as a Monsta or an RX V3 or UT60 etc should even be run imho. My Monsta's fan speeds are automatically controlled by loop temps and rarely break 1000rpms even gaming / benching. Loud? Never.

It's pretty evident that when you asked "_Why do you guys love Monsta rads? I heard that the extra thickness does little to nothing for cooling_." you did so not actually looking for an answer to your question. As Bundy's test results clearly show, the Monsta's extra thickness plays a MAJOR role in its cooling performance, as can be seen by how much it outperforms Alphacool's thinner rads of the same design, and all the other rads in that test at 'normal' fan speeds.

The RX V3 is a great performing rad, no doubt, but your insinuation that there's no good reason for anyone to ever use any other rad than it is ludicrous. There's lots of really good and varying reasons for people to use all sorts of different rads of all makes and sizes.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Never use pumps in parallel . . . . there's no gain of any kind that comes from it. . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ALWAYS go with series when using multiple pumps. . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume then that you want 1 res for the single D5 and the other res for the dual pair? . . .
> 
> Or are you looking at 3 res's, one for each pump?
> 
> D.


Series, it is.

I want 2x reservoirs for the single D5, the other two pumps is sitting underneath those EK-D5 X-Res 140 systems (pump, pump top and reservoir).

Three pumps and four reservoirs. I could connect the reservoirs with a Y-block and use them as one larger reservoir. This is just for the aesthetics, I am fine with just one.









For black/red theme should I use silver shining fittings or matte black? I kind of want to convert to matte black, but I am not sure what will look best. The tubing will be chrome-plated copper tubing.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shouldn't there be more space between fans to test them in push pull? Otherwise they will basically only perform as good as the front fan? Tiny Tom Logan only got a 2 degree difference by stacking 40 fans on a h100i.
> 
> That's because there is a point of diminishing return with airflow thru the rad . . . and the thinner the rad, the sooner you reach it, . . . all else being equal.
> 
> That's also irrelevant, as I think you are not visualizing the test setup correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/
> 
> 
> quote]
> 
> The PP fans are one on each side of the rad . . . where you see 2 fans on one side, the inner one is the passive fan being used to measure the airflow.
> 
> The Silverstones are white, so where there's a single white fan on one side, the other side fan is the passive one . . actually, the passive one is the one on the left against the rad in all those pics.
> 
> Darlene


Which Silverstone fans did you use? Is that the FQ-121?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shouldn't there be more space between fans to test them in push pull? Otherwise they will basically only perform as good as the front fan? Tiny Tom Logan only got a 2 degree difference by stacking 40 fans on a h100i.
> 
> That's because there is a point of diminishing return with airflow thru the rad . . . and the thinner the rad, the sooner you reach it, . . . all else being equal.
> 
> That's also irrelevant, as I think you are not visualizing the test setup correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/
> 
> 
> quote]
> 
> The PP fans are one on each side of the rad . . . where you see 2 fans on one side, the inner one is the passive fan being used to measure the airflow.
> 
> The Silverstones are white, so where there's a single white fan on one side, the other side fan is the passive one . . actually, the passive one is the one on the left against the rad in all those pics.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Which Silverstone fans did you use? Is that the FQ-121?
Click to expand...

Those were FM121's iirc,

D.

edit to correct the model number . . it's FM121


----------



## bond32

Regarding multiple reservoirs... What are the issues? Say, one res on one side of the loop and a separate on the opposite side... I have the swiftech micro res and the mcp35x res top. Seems one would be easier to bleed, but the other I would prefer to feed my D5 pump. Or I can put all 3 pumps right after each other after one reservoir... Thoughts?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Given an initial amount of flow required to overcome stiction, if the measuring fan speed doubles, it means about twice the airflow, if it goes up 50% from one fan to another, it means the second one delivers half again the airflow of the first.
> 
> It's a relative way to evaluate different fans and different rads . . . as long as the same measuring fan is used all the time, how fast it spins in any setup is an indication of how much air flow that setup has compared to the others tested the same way.
> 
> There is no way to figure flow in CFM or static pressure in mmH2O with such a setup, so it's not something I could compare to someone else's tests, but it tells me quite reliably which fans move what amounts of air, in relation to other fans, on a given rad setup.
> 
> If I had a bunch of additional test gear, I could compute real cfm and have universally useful numbers, but for personal testing, that's just not needed.
> 
> Just the relative indication of what fans moved more or less air than the others is all I was looking for.
> 
> Darlene


i see now
I suppose that would work lol


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Those were FN121's iirc,
> 
> D.


Did you paint them?

I have about a half dozen of those FN121's but they're black and about a half dozen of the FQ121's, which is a PWM fan with white case and blue blades. I think both of them are outstanding fans for radiators. The FN121's especially because they're so quiet and I think I paid $5/ea for them new.

Anyway, just surprised to see that the Silverstone fan does so well, they don't seem that popular.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Those were FN121's iirc,
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you paint them?
> 
> I have about a half dozen of those FN121's but they're black and about a half dozen of the FQ121's, which is a PWM fan with white case and blue blades. I think both of them are outstanding fans for radiators. The FN121's especially because they're so quiet and I think I paid $5/ea for them new.
> 
> Anyway, just surprised to see that the Silverstone fan does so well, they don't seem that popular.
Click to expand...

Ooops . . . Derp on my part . .

Senior blonde moment; memory is failing . .

They are FM121's, Not FN's and are naturally white:

http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?scase=c_120&pid=118&area=en

I've also run some FM122's, which is a 32mm thick version; but takes up too much room in PP for most setups:

http://silverstonetek.com/legacy.php?pid=117&area=en&model=fm122&tno=5

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Only reason I want to go with dual reservoirs is because I got the XL-window for the LD Cooling PC-V8 and I want to have dual reservoirs. I can see how this is confusing only using one pump, but with dual pumps it is very practical and an easy way to get rid of all air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I looked over some of the threads and I got a bit confused by all the charts, when it comes to flow meters the real duel for me is between the Koolance and the two Aquacomputer: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/0_100#post_22571713 post #18. Which one have the lowest restriction and will be the best to use? There is no mention of "higher is bad", "lower is better" or something.
> 
> From what I can make out of that chart is that the Koolance flow meter is the better choice, both the Aquacomputer ones is more expensive none the less. What do you think?
> 
> I looked at the chart with the single D5 loop also, where the flow was going through the EK-Supreme. If the 2x Monsta 480's is not too restrictive I should be good with one D5 pump for only CPU, Mosfet and Chipset, right?
> 
> My other loop is the 2x MO-RA3 loops, which IT Diva told me that I should run in parallel instead of series (like I do now) because of the restriction and that I added a flow meter to see the flow rate in that loop. Now that loop will be seriously changed, from CPU, Mosfet, Chipset, 2x EK-Dominator + 4x R9 290X's to only 4x R9 290X's, the rest of that loop is 2x EK-D5 X-Res with dual D5's.
> 
> Should I just forget about the D5's and get better pumps, with higher flow?


As Darlene already said the D5 will be just fine in such situation. As of the flow meter I would go with the koolance one just because I don't want to waste pressure almost the equivalent to a cpu block on the flow meter itself. Got it on the reservoir side, perfectly sound decision.









EDIT- I wish they do the FQ141 in white frame and black blades...


----------



## VSG

I am not sure running the Mo.Ra's in parallel is a great idea to be honest, each Mo.Ra further splits flow in parallel 4 ways inside and is very restrictive with the 20-ish turns inside. So the flowrate inside the Mo.Ra will be pretty low this way.


----------



## LeSwede

Random question for the pros, should I have the RAD before or after the CPU block?

*Parts*

RAD: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full copper 360mm

Block: Alphacool NexXxoS XP3 Acetal Intel/AMD CPU

Pump: Pump, EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC)

Res: Reservoar EK-RES X3 250

Coolant: EK-Ekoolant Blood Red- 1000 ml


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeSwede*
> 
> Random question for the pros, should I have the RAD before or after the CPU block?
> 
> *Parts*
> 
> RAD: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full copper 360mm
> 
> Block: Alphacool NexXxoS XP3 Acetal Intel/AMD CPU
> 
> Pump: Pump, EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC)
> 
> Res: Reservoar EK-RES X3 250
> 
> Coolant: EK-Ekoolant Blood Red- 1000 ml


Makes no difference. The only constant is to have the reservoir just before the pump. Besides that loop order makes no difference except to try to make the shortest path between components.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeSwede*
> 
> Random question for the pros, should I have the RAD before or after the CPU block?
> 
> *Parts*
> 
> RAD: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full copper 360mm
> 
> Block: Alphacool NexXxoS XP3 Acetal Intel/AMD CPU
> 
> Pump: Pump, EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC)
> 
> Res: Reservoar EK-RES X3 250
> 
> Coolant: EK-Ekoolant Blood Red- 1000 ml


Loop order doesn't make a difference in performance as water temperature equalizes throughout the entire loop over time. The only thing that matters is that the pump is directly after the reservoir


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am not sure running the Mo.Ra's in parallel is a great idea to be honest, each Mo.Ra further splits flow in parallel 4 ways inside and is very restrictive with the 20-ish turns inside. So the flowrate inside the Mo.Ra will be pretty low this way.


It was precisely because the MORA is so restrictive, that I suggested he run them in parallel . . . can you imagine the restriction that 2 of them in series must be.

Splitting the flow just means a given molecule of coolant spends twice as long in 1 rad as it otherwise would going thru each of the 2 of them if seriesed.

The cooling capability should be close to equal, and the lower overall restriction should put the D5 pump in a sweeter region of the curve.

I also suggested the flow meter so that he could try it both ways, and decide between them based on actual flow numbers, not a WAG.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Right, but the D5 isn't really great with a single Mo.Ra either. All the split flow and I wonder if the flow will be turbulent at all. That would be interesting to see, I can do a quick Reynolds number calculation.


----------



## LeSwede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Loop order doesn't make a difference in performance as water temperature equalizes throughout the entire loop over time. The only thing that matters is that the pump is directly after the reservoir


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Makes no difference. The only constant is to have the reservoir just before the pump. Besides that loop order makes no difference except to try to make the shortest path between components.


Thanks peeps







Res before pump is kinda obvious as it would not end well for the pump if it runs out of liquid


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LeSwede*
> 
> Random question for the pros, should I have the RAD before or after the CPU block?
> 
> *Parts*
> 
> RAD: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full copper 360mm
> 
> Block: Alphacool NexXxoS XP3 Acetal Intel/AMD CPU
> 
> Pump: Pump, EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC)
> 
> Res: Reservoar EK-RES X3 250
> 
> Coolant: EK-Ekoolant Blood Red- 1000 ml
> 
> 
> 
> Loop order doesn't make a difference in performance as water temperature equalizes throughout the entire loop over time. *The only thing that matters is that the pump is directly after the reservoir*
Click to expand...

Yeah.....about that......
Erm.....well.....you dont have to have it in front you know.....if you can guarantee the pump is lubed and there is water to pull then its doable.

Not advised tho. But I have been dicking around with odd bits and bobs recently to get around some space concerns with LUMO


----------



## Ceadderman

I too have space concerns to deal with. So my Res is getting mounted further out from the pumps. Pumps up front, Res in the back. Still before the Pump Units though. Should work just fine.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shouldn't there be more space between fans to test them in push pull? Otherwise they will basically only perform as good as the front fan? Tiny Tom Logan only got a 2 degree difference by stacking 40 fans on a h100i.
> 
> That's because there is a point of diminishing return with airflow thru the rad . . . and the thinner the rad, the sooner you reach it, . . . all else being equal.
> 
> That's also irrelevant, as I think you are not visualizing the test setup correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/
> 
> 
> quote]
> 
> T*he PP fans are one on each side of the rad* . . . where you see 2 fans on one side, the inner one is the passive fan being used to measure the airflow.
> 
> The Silverstones are white, so where there's a single white fan on one side, the other side fan is the passive one . . actually, the passive one is the one on the left against the rad in all those pics.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I mean, they are so close together, that the second fan kinda cancels itself out, so it will perform almost like a single fan.
Click to expand...

When I had my first WC'ing kit(AIO) I intentionally borked the stock fan and removed the supports and fan from it to create a shroud. Worked like a charm. Because I did that prior to installation, I couldn't tell you the before and after but I think that it worked reasonably well. Although my H50 did take up quite a bit of real estate in my 5.25 bay. Couldn't use the upper 3 bays because of my push pull setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## salted_cashews

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> yeah, its the molex thats impeding it.
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6 XT and I have every channel hooked up through 3 pin female to female cables, which are connected to Modmytoys PCBs. They work fantastic, total control.


Okay thanks for the help, might get a better controller before dumping that sort of start up load on a phobya haha. Unfortunately selection in Australia is fairly limited for high tier niche products so I'll most likely be going international for an aquaero.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Right, but the D5 isn't really great with a single Mo.Ra either. All the split flow and I wonder if the flow will be turbulent at all. That would be interesting to see, I can do a quick Reynolds number calculation.


I'm not sure you ever get turbulent flow in a "made for PC watercooling" round tube rad.

Running them both ways with a flow meter to see the total flow rate, which is what the rest of the loop is going to depend on, would seem to me to be a no-brainer.

He's got the MORAs on his GPU loop . . . 4X 290Xs with the semi parallel bridge.

He's going to want the best flow rate he can get, as it will be halved for each GPU block.

There's enough rad space that he can trade a bit of thermal efficiency for higher flow rate, if that's what it came down to.

Darlene

Come to think of it, he has dual D5's on that loop.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeSwede*
> 
> Random question for the pros, should I have the RAD before or after the CPU block?
> 
> *Parts*
> 
> RAD: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full copper 360mm
> 
> Block: Alphacool NexXxoS XP3 Acetal Intel/AMD CPU
> 
> Pump: Pump, EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC)
> 
> Res: Reservoar EK-RES X3 250
> 
> Coolant: EK-Ekoolant Blood Red- 1000 ml


Literally doesn't matter. As stated above, the only real rule to follow is res before pump. Shortest/cleanest path is your #1 priority.


----------



## stickg1

Anyone well versed in dual bay D5 5.25" reservoirs? I think I'm in the market for one on my Corsair 350D Folding Rig build. The Primochill ones look to fit the bill but I haven't ever seen anyone use one.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone well versed in dual bay D5 5.25" reservoirs? I think I'm in the market for one on my Corsair 350D Folding Rig build. The Primochill ones look to fit the bill but I haven't ever seen anyone use one.


XSPC have one, I have had two of them myself (the first one cracked under cleaning with boiling water, what a surprise







), changed the second one for tube reservoirs, kind of tired of bay reservoirs now. It seems like I never could get it 100% filled, just 98-99%, because the fillport is not the top-point of the reservoir. Other than that it is great, I used it for a while.









Got around and ordered the 2x Koolance Flow Meters today, also ordered another D5 pump, reservoirs and some stuff to the rebuild. Build log coming soon.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ok then. I have moved most of my airflow in a push or pull for my Rads... Can anyone tell me why I am considering watercooling my HDD's with a bitspower hdd waterblock?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17144/ex-blc-1333/Bitspower_HDD_Acrylic_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clear_BP-HDS350AC-CL.html?tl=g30c203&id=c2s5m5GJ

Someone has to have done this already.. Pics?







My temps on hwmonitor for my HDD is 40c (while gaming, drops to 38c during normal op)

The Cautious One


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok then. I have moved most of my airflow in a push or pull for my Rads... Can anyone tell me why I am considering watercooling my HDD's with a bitspower hdd waterblock?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17144/ex-blc-1333/Bitspower_HDD_Acrylic_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clear_BP-HDS350AC-CL.html?tl=g30c203&id=c2s5m5GJ
> 
> Someone has to have done this already.. Pics?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps on hwmonitor for my HDD is 40c (while gaming, drops to 38c during normal op)
> 
> The Cautious One


Congratulations! 

I did not think there was such a thing as overkill...

but this is as close as I have seen


----------



## Cr4zy

First time doing Hard acrylic tubing, messed up a fair amount, still have one bit of tube (albeit not easily visible) that isn't perfect but I can out of tube long enough, so it had to do









Spec:
Intel i7 5960x
ASUS X99-E WS
2x GTX 980
Corsair 16GB DDR4
X-Fi Titanium HD
4 SSDs, 1 HDD
Corsair AX860i

Watercooling:
2x Black Ice 480 SR-1
EK Supremecy EVO - Nickel/Plexi
EK GTX980 FC - Nickle/Acetel
EK-D5 Vario X-TOP
Bitspower Z-Multi 150ml Res
Aquacomputer Flow sensor
Aquacomputer Aquero 5 LT
E22 10/12mm Acrylic Tube
Many, Bitspower fitings
9x Gentle Typhoon AP-15
3x Phanteks 140mm


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok then. I have moved most of my airflow in a push or pull for my Rads... Can anyone tell me why I am considering watercooling my HDD's with a bitspower hdd waterblock?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17144/ex-blc-1333/Bitspower_HDD_Acrylic_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clear_BP-HDS350AC-CL.html?tl=g30c203&id=c2s5m5GJ
> 
> Someone has to have done this already.. Pics?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps on hwmonitor for my HDD is 40c (while gaming, drops to 38c during normal op)
> 
> The Cautious One


@Buehlar did, in his Mid-Lif Cry-Sis build


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cr4zy*
> 
> First time doing Hard acrylic tubing, messed up a fair amount, still have one bit of tube (albeit not easily visible) that isn't perfect but I can out of tube long enough, so it had to do


You couldn't have just rotated those fans on the bottom the other way to avoid those cable going over the top of the rad? Other than than that, nice build, always love clean looking clear liquid loops.


----------



## Cr4zy

Nah I couldn't/ They were goign to have to run along the front somewhere. Around the back wasn't possible that rad is in there insanely tight, routing probably could have been better but I gave up after 3 re-mounts of the rad just to get it in. When the side panel is on it's much less noticeable too.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Here's some Aurora 2 mixed with X1 Oil Black concentrate:


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not think there was such a thing as overkill...
> but this is as close as I have seen


I thought this was getting closer over kill if any one here would believe it could exist









/water-cooled-d-link-router

Jameswalt1 Nice mix you got going on there makes an industrial look


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well recently I started a redesign and rebuild of my Rig, both to bring a fresh look and to incorporate a waterblock for my Graphics card. All the parts I ordered last week arrived a couple days ago and I've started putting things together and wanted to post a couple pics of the progress















I'm soaking a flushing the new Rads now so I hope to start running tubing soon









*Here's a link to the build log*


----------



## jon666

Must have to build your first loop before you have the patience to stop and take pictures halfway through lol. I kinda tried too, but once I started I didn't want to stop. A lot of these builds look clean. Cables and whatnot are exactly where the builder wants them. I can appreciate that but can't seem to do the same with my PC unless it affects performance. The only thing I regret is going with the home depot tubing since it is already clouding up. From what I have read, plasticer can kill performance of blocks. Maybe I can use that as my excuse to add another radiator.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Must have to build your first loop before you have the patience to stop and take pictures halfway through lol. I kinda tried too, but once I started I didn't want to stop. A lot of these builds look clean. Cables and whatnot are exactly where the builder wants them. I can appreciate that but can't seem to do the same with my PC unless it affects performance. The only thing I regret is going with the home depot tubing since it is already clouding up. From what I have read, plasticer can kill performance of blocks. Maybe I can use that as my excuse to add another radiator.


Patience is something that I've learned with time, you rush through things a few times without planning them out and you end up not happy with something - like your tubes clouding up - and it eats at you everyday when you have to sit there and look at it. So now I'm forcing myself to take my time and do things as methodical as I can so that things turn out the way I want them to. Great example is the last go around I built in a scratch and dent case from PPC's and I was never happy with the case, so now I'm putting everything in a case I can at least live with


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not think there was such a thing as overkill...
> but this is as close as I have seen


I haven't bought them yet!! What are safe Op temps for Hdd's with no airflow? The Temps are stock right now. No watercooling them just yet... but I can see two bitspower HDD blocks and a way for them to sit on top of my psu for sure.









EDIT: Found this http://www.buildcomputers.net/hdd-temperature.html


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not think there was such a thing as overkill...
> but this is as close as I have seen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't bought them yet!! What are safe Op temps for Hdd's with no airflow? The Temps are stock right now. No watercooling them just yet... but I can see two bitspower HDD blocks and a way for them to sit on top of my psu for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Found this http://www.buildcomputers.net/hdd-temperature.html
Click to expand...

 I was just giving you a hard time, but if they need it , they need it. There is no way to get any airflow in there ey?

I like to keep mine between 28-34c but with he airflow I have they are closer to 28c. I don't like anything over 40C at all.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I was just giving you a hard time, but if they need it , they need it. There is no way to get any airflow in there ey?
> I like to keep mine between 28-34c but with he airflow I have they are closer to 28c. I don't like anything over 40C at all.




You see the HDD in the bottom corner? Lol. I wasn't thinking about them when I did the loop but I have plenty of space on top the PSU... It might et hot though!! I have my 2nd 2T Seagate in the mail right now.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I was just giving you a hard time, but if they need it , they need it. There is no way to get any airflow in there ey?
> I like to keep mine between 28-34c but with he airflow I have they are closer to 28c. I don't like anything over 40C at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see the HDD in the bottom corner? Lol. I wasn't thinking about them when I did the loop but I have plenty of space on top the PSU... It might et hot though!! I have my 2nd 2T Seagate in the mail right now.
Click to expand...

If you do WC the HDD(s) keep us in the loop...sorry, anyway, I wouldlike to see what kind of results you get, if you would be so kind


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> If you do WC the HDD(s) keep us in the loop...sorry, anyway, I wouldlike to see what kind of results you get, if you would be so kind


Keep yall in the loop or the HDD's in the loop lmao. I will. 70$ x 2 is around what I don't want to spend on this but I just might to be ridiculous.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Keep yall in the loop or the HDD's in the loop lmao. I will. 70$ x 2 is around what I don't want to spend on this but I just might to be ridiculous.


Well that definitely will be ridiculous alright









I just had my first Gentle Typhoon experience thanks to @hiarc and all I can say at this time without proper testing is- Wow!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well that definitely will be ridiculous alright
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had my first Gentle Typhoon experience thanks to @hiarc and all I can say at this time without proper testing is- Wow!


What happened with the fans? I am just wondering if incorporating my HDD's into my loop with my gpu and processor block could have adverse effects... such as raising their temperatures instead of lowering them. Runnin my rig during gaming at 4.5Ghz returns results of 65-68c on the Processor and 50C on the Gpu. What's yall's opinion with those temps going through the water and now possibly going to the HDD blocks?

THe Cautious ONe


----------



## VSG

Nothing happened, just pleasantly surprised how quiet it is and yet manages to push out the amount of air it can. The eloops get close but are definitely a bit louder.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nothing happened, just pleasantly surprised how quiet it is and yet manages to push out the amount of air it can. The eloops get close but are definitely a bit louder.


I understand. Any input on HDD's in a warm loop? Or any expierence with that?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand. Any input on HDD's in a warm loop? Or any expierence with that?


Nope, but it can't be any worse performance wise than watercooling a modern chipset. Just do some research on the block restriction and see if the cost is worth it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nope, but it can't be any worse performance wise than watercooling a modern chipset. Just do some research on the block restriction and see if the cost is worth it.


Your Rep is the Same number as my area code. (337) Anyway. How could block restriction effect the overall temp of the coolant in the loop. That is my main concern. Since they are at 40c while under the rad in my setup I feel as though putting in them in my loop (where even my GPU block is 50C) that I would raise it to maybe... 45c or something of that nature. Am I thinking of the right type of effect of dispersion of heat? Doesn't the temp of the coolant stabilize after a while? Or effect the components as a whole?

The Cautious One

Thank you for responding also. I just have a lot of questions and love the community here


----------



## WeirdHarold

Ok I've got another questions for you all:

I'm ready to start putting the stuff in my case and I'm wondering on the direction of airflow in my case, I'm putting everything in an old Corsair 800D. I'm mounting a 360 in the top and a 120 on the back and I was thinking I'd pull fresh cool air in through 360mm Rad in the top and have the back one pushing air out through the 120mm Rad. I'd also have the 140mm fan in the bottom of the case pushing air into the motherboard compartment. Do you all think this will be okay, or should I also reverse the back fans to pull cool air into the 120mm Rad on the back? My empty PCI slot covers are removed at the moment and will be replaced with ventilated ones in the end, and I do want positive case pressure to help keep dust to a minimum in the case.

Oh yeah so you know the loop set up: Bay Res/Pump ---> the 360mm Rad ----> to the CPU block ----> the 120mm Rad ----> GPU Block ----> back the Res.

Thanks in advance for the help and advice


----------



## Gabrielzm

Talking about ridiculous:



now imagined fill it with:


I got one of those for the SMA8 build and even put it to the test to see the restriction. Let me find those and will report back...


----------



## WhiteWulfe

With the angle of that picture, for a moment I thought you had watercooled the printer!!


----------



## morencyam

Now that would have been ridiculous lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> With the angle of that picture, for a moment I thought you had watercooled the printer!!


Lol.







Yeah I got the bitspower HD thing (one unit). Was trying to find the results of the test on restriction I did and couldn't find so I put it to the paces again. Very low restriction. Will report here and add to the community test thread latter.

1 d5 PWM controlled from 25% to 100% (1228 rpm to 4823 rpm). Flow in GPM. Table:



pictures of the loop:






All in all I would say adds very little restriction.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I got the bitspower HD thing (one unit). Was trying to find the results of the test on restriction I did and couldn't find so I put it to the paces again. Very low restriction. Will report here and add to the community test thread latter.
> 
> 1 d5 PWM controlled from 25% to 100% (1228 rpm to 4823 rpm). Flow in GPM. Table:
> 
> 
> 
> pictures of the loop:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all I would say adds very little restriction.


how bout operating temps? Whats the difference with and without the HDD Cooler?

Thanks. The Cautious ONe

+ Rep for the follow up


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well that definitely will be ridiculous alright
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had my first Gentle Typhoon experience thanks to @hiarc and all I can say at this time without proper testing is- Wow!


Always glad to help out!


----------



## Joossens

Hi,

Loving all the cool pictures here.
I once posted my first watercooling attempt here an just wanted to post some pictures of what I've done with my PC since then.

Before: (in ancient times)



Aftermost of it about 3 years ago)







This way I want to say goodbye to my computer, you have served me well, I will miss you :-(

I decided to go a little BIGGER, I'm going for a Phanteks enthoo primo, a gtx 970 and probably the X99 platform.
Hopefully this time I can put all the WC-stuff inside the case 

And of course when my new PC is ready I'll post some pics

Thanks,

Jo


----------



## downforce

Hi,

I am quite new to this forum and i like to see here tons of pictures OF WATERCOOLED systems. Personally I have 3 of my 4 systems under water and arranged my systems new nearly every week.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *downforce*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am quite new to this forum and i like to see here tons of pictures OF WATERCOOLED systems. Personally I have 3 of my 4 Systems under water and arranged my the sytems new nearly every week, so be Kind to me.


i believe the german modding community is one of the biggest in the world... Welcome to OCN mate...







show us what you got


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Keep yall in the loop or the HDD's in the loop lmao. I will. 70$ x 2 is around what I don't want to spend on this but I just might to be ridiculous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that definitely will be ridiculous alright
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had my first Gentle Typhoon experience thanks to @hiarc and all I can say at this time without proper testing is- Wow!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nothing happened, just pleasantly *surprised how quiet it is and yet manages to push out the amount of air it can. The eloops get close but are definitely a bit louder*.


Being the nerd that I am, and knowing you're a scientific type as well, . . . I have to ask what methodology you're using to make that determination about how much air is being "pushed out", and under what flow conditions, free flow for example, were you evaluating to make that determination.

We both know that in physics, or in reality in general, there's no such thing as a free lunch.

The GTs have a power draw of draw of less than 1W, while most fans of similar specs have ratings in the 2 to 5W range . . . I have difficulty believing they all deliver similarly on their ratings.

How about setting up a simple test scenario like I did, where you just look at how much air flows thru a couple representative rads using the GT's and several other similar speed fans with different power draw specs.

There's so much confirmation bias attached the GTs for watercooling, that to say anything irreverent about them is tantamount to heresy.

I think you'll find that the biggest reason they seem so quiet is not because they have found the holy grail of magic blade design, but because they just don't move enough air to be as noisy as most of the other choices.

And while I'm rambling on and being generally critical, . . . when you do the rad tests, how about doing some relative airflow testing of the various RPM fans you use . . . .

There was quite a number of posts recently where posters were extoling the RPM range that one rad seemed to become more desirable over another, (monsta vs UT60) . .

But having thought about that, that discussion was all totally meaningless, as the actual determining factor was the airflow, not the frikken fan speed. . .

The pics I posted demonstrate that reality; If I had done rad tests with ~2200 rpm fans, and used the Corsairs on one rad and the Silverstones on another, the results would have shown that whatever rad the Silverstones were on would have been Much Better performing than the one the Corsairs were on . . .

And it would have been a False conclusion . . . the rad itself could have been considerably worse than the one with the corsairs, but the massive difference in airflow between the fan makes would have hidden that, if you did not know in advance that the difference in airflow rates was so great.

It's just absolutely foolish to do rad testing based on various fan rpms, instead of doing the testing at various established air flow rates thru the rad.

[/rant]

Darlene


----------



## VSG

You mean something like this:





The statement with the GT vs eloop was based on a quick free flowing measurement because I had just received them, but was measured via an Extech anemometer at the same distance from the fans, like how it was with the fan/rad combo above. All the above results will likely vary from fan to fan, but this is for a rad comparison so I used the same 120mm fan on the 480s and the same 140mm fan on the 560s.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> how bout operating temps? Whats the difference with and without the HDD Cooler?
> 
> Thanks. The Cautious ONe
> 
> + Rep for the follow up


No clue mate. Haven't placed in use yet. My SMA8 build is ongoing and the HD will be the last thing on it...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You mean something like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The statement with the GT vs eloop was based on a quick free flowing measurement because I had just received them, but was measured via an Extech anemometer at the same distance from the fans, like how it was with the fan/rad combo above. All the above results will likely vary from fan to fan, but this is for a rad comparison so I used the same 120mm fan on the 480s and the same 140mm fan on the 560s.


On your charts, the FPM scale . . . is that meant to be CFM or just really a fpm velocity reading,

Realistically, it can't be CFM, as even if it was cumulative for 4 fans, it's still beyond reason.

About 110 cfm is as good as it gets for a 25mm thick fan in the 2200+ rpm range . . and that's with no loading.

If it's a velocity scale, then it doesn't really mean much, the charts give nothing more than the relative restrictiveness of the fin configuration.

Without having actual heat dissipated numbers at actual CFM airflow rates, the tests become just relative to each other, but don't offer information that's applicable outside your tests.

Having charts that show X Watts dissipated at say 10 or 20 scfm increments from 20 to 200 scfm of airflow, and at a standard ambient temp, is the only way to actually compare rads, without the fan contributing greatly to the results and making them suspect at best.

To evaluate rads, in a way that can be of use to others who can't test on their own, you need to know Watts dissipated and actual airflow, so as to eliminate the huge variable of fan performance from skewing the results.

If you want to then later determine what fans can get you what airflow levels, then that's an entirely different investigation to pursue.

The one thing I learned so indelibly from the bit of testing that I did . . was that you can't judge a fan by it's specs or its RPM . .

You have to evaluate it in the mode in which it's going to be employed.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

That is FPM, not CFM. I am with you on showing how rads dissipate heat with airflow but that means nothing to the average user because they control temps by fan rpm. Of course these are meant to be relative tests, doing watts dissipated is based on a constant delta T (loop - ambient) value as well which is not realistic either.

The way I have it now for the thermal tests (something requested by users and manufacturers alike) is delta T vs fan rpm. It will be a relative performance test, including the Air restriction and liquid restriction numbers because everything is relative- exact fittings used, ambient temps, fan used, control used, load applied, components used for the load and so on.

The watts dissipated vs FPM (CFM again depends on the duct size, distance between the duct and fan, distance between the duct and the anemometer) is what I will try to get done for a separate section. But I don't see that being representative of the mode it is going to be employed. Am I mistaken here? I am all for learning and improving here so it's a genuine question.

Edit: Doing watts dissipated or even delta T vs FPM/CFM also means having a library of FPM/CFM vs RPM for several fans to make it translate into useful data for people in my opinion. Again going back to the whole people using temps vs RPM in practice.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok then. I have moved most of my airflow in a push or pull for my Rads... Can anyone tell me why I am considering watercooling my HDD's with a bitspower hdd waterblock?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17144/ex-blc-1333/Bitspower_HDD_Acrylic_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clear_BP-HDS350AC-CL.html?tl=g30c203&id=c2s5m5GJ
> 
> Someone has to have done this already.. Pics?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps on hwmonitor for my HDD is 40c (while gaming, drops to 38c during normal op)
> 
> The Cautious One


Actually, I do plan on WC'ing my HDDs' as well. Just makes sense for my build because the HDD cage is coming out and the RAID is moving into the bottom of the 5.25 Bay. I'm considering the Koolance dual HDD system or the Watercool SILENT star Dual setup. More likely the WC unit so I can keep everything at one end and I won't have to mix anything to insulate the spindle and boards and block the power/data ports. My lower two 5.25 bays are open so it would be the best idea since sliced bread.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That is FPM, not CFM. I am with you on showing how rads dissipate heat with airflow but that means nothing to the average user because they control temps by fan rpm. Of course these are meant to be relative tests, doing watts dissipated is based on a constant delta T (loop - ambient) value as well which is not realistic either.
> 
> *The way I have it now for the thermal tests (something requested by users and manufacturers alike) is delta T vs fan rpm*. It will be a relative performance test, including the Air restriction and liquid restriction numbers because everything is relative- exact fittings used, ambient temps, fan used, control used, load applied, components used for the load and so on.
> 
> The watts dissipated vs FPM (CFM again depends on the duct size, distance between the duct and fan, distance between the duct and the anemometer) is what I will try to get done for a separate section. But I don't see that being representative of the mode it is going to be employed. Am I mistaken here? I am all for learning and improving here so it's a genuine question.


That to me, is a big problem . . . . . . Fan RPM is irrelevant to getting truly useful data.

If I had done that kind of testing with the rather lame Corsair SPs, I would have gotten much higher Dt's than if I'd used the Silverstones, both of which are the same RPM.

It would have been more harmful than good if I'd used the Silverstones and posted great results, and then others went and used the same rad but saved money and got the SP's, since the RPM was the charted variable, and got the sucky results that would have come with them.

If I could do rad testing where I had a controllable fan setup with mass airflow sensors, air straightening plenums for each size rad, and could therefor chart the Dt's at known CFM points for specific heat loads, I'd have data that was actually useful. . . . .

In truth, I doubt that there's enough difference in todays rads to come close to justifying such a setup, at least outside of academic curiosity, . . . guys buy based on: price, features, build quality, perceived value, or usually some combination thereof.

The temps guys are getting are way more impacted by the fans and overall airflow characteristics of their setup, than the brand of rad they use.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That to me, is a big problem . . . . . . Fan RPM is irrelevant to getting truly useful data.
> 
> If I had done that kind of testing with the rather lame Corsair SPs, I would have gotten much higher Dt's than if I'd used the Silverstones, both of which are the same RPM.
> 
> It would have been more harmful than good if I'd used the Silverstones and posted great results, and then others went and used the same rad but saved money and got the SP's, since the RPM was the charted variable, and got the sucky results that would have come with them.
> 
> If I could do rad testing where I had a controllable fan setup with mass airflow sensors, air straightening plenums for each size rad, and could therefor chart the Dt's at known CFM points for specific heat loads, I'd have data that was actually useful. . . . .


Right, but what percentage of users would be able to translate that without having CFM data for every fan made? It's no different than doing delta T vs rpm vs every single fan in practice and impractical for users.

Given the amount of rads and different fans I have, that's something I have been thinking about doing but it's something that will be a long term thing because of (a) I am doing this out of interest and not being paid or anything and (b) it will take an appreciable amount of space, time and equipment.
Quote:


> In truth, I doubt that there's enough difference in todays rads to come close to justifying such a setup, at least outside of academic curiosity, . . . guys buy based on: price, features, build quality, perceived value, or usually some combination thereof.
> 
> The temps guys are getting are way more impacted by the fans and overall airflow characteristics of their setup, than the brand of rad they use.


Nail on the head there. Rads do affect performance but people should really consider a rad+fan combo together as I have been saying. I am going to talk about everything that a rad comes with and not just focus on thermal performance with a particular fan but that's about as much as I can without the aforementioned library.


----------



## feznz

now those charts are making sense
I was trying to understand them myself this was the highest spec fan I could find Mega Fast fan



I would predict testing with any radiator will yield the same similar performance curve no matter which fan you choose to test it with because of the weakest thermal conductive material is the air we push though the radiator.
That's if you are the performance of the radiator by measuring the efficiency of dissipating heat

Air, athmosphere (gas) 0.024 W/(m.K)
Water 0.58 W/(m.K)
Copper 401 W/(m.K)

the water is 25x more heat conductive than the air

I think what ITDiva is explaining is a fans specs are useless without taking the static pressure into account
i.e. free flowing radiator on the desk is going to require a lot less static air pressure when the same radiator is stuck in a highly air flow restricted case.

so effectively in testing fans we need to take Cfm and static pressure vs dB

also using the anemometer you will need to use a fan space to reduce "dead spots" caused by the fan motor

as the fan above is going to blow any fan away literately if you don't mind wearing the earmuffs


----------



## tsqu4red

Hi guys,
I just finish this build today and wanted to show you guys my new found love


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsqu4red*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I just finish this build today and wanted to show you guys my new found love


WoW, is there a motherboard in there somewhere?







Just kidding, that's unique and great job


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok then. I have moved most of my airflow in a push or pull for my Rads... Can anyone tell me why I am considering watercooling my HDD's with a bitspower hdd waterblock?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17144/ex-blc-1333/Bitspower_HDD_Acrylic_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clear_BP-HDS350AC-CL.html?tl=g30c203&id=c2s5m5GJ
> 
> Someone has to have done this already.. Pics?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps on hwmonitor for my HDD is 40c (while gaming, drops to 38c during normal op)
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Actually, I do plan on WC'ing my HDDs'* as well. Just makes sense for my build because the HDD cage is coming out and the RAID is moving into the bottom of the 5.25 Bay. I'm considering the Koolance dual HDD system or the Watercool SILENT star Dual setup. More likely the WC unit so I can keep everything at one end and I won't have to mix anything to insulate the spindle and boards and block the power/data ports. My lower two 5.25 bays are open so it would be the best idea since sliced bread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Save your money Ceadder,unless you are in the tropics,all watercooling drives does is lower reliability.

http://research.google.com/archive/disk_failures.pdf



Looks funky tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That is FPM, not CFM. I am with you on showing how rads dissipate heat with airflow but that means nothing to the average user because they control temps by fan rpm. Of course these are meant to be relative tests, doing watts dissipated is based on a constant delta T (loop - ambient) value as well which is not realistic either.
> 
> The way I have it now for the thermal tests (something requested by users and manufacturers alike) is delta T vs fan rpm. It will be a relative performance test, including the Air restriction and liquid restriction numbers because everything is relative- exact fittings used, ambient temps, fan used, control used, load applied, components used for the load and so on.
> 
> The watts dissipated vs FPM (CFM again depends on the duct size, distance between the duct and fan, distance between the duct and the anemometer) is what I will try to get done for a separate section. But I don't see that being representative of the mode it is going to be employed. Am I mistaken here? I am all for learning and improving here so it's a genuine question.
> 
> Edit: Doing watts dissipated or even delta T vs FPM/CFM also means having a library of FPM/CFM vs RPM for several fans to make it translate into useful data for people in my opinion. Again going back to the whole people using temps vs RPM in practice.


FPM=Feet per minute,its a measure of velocity,not volume.

Delta v RPM is easily replicated and is RL condition testing for FAN tests,to do this for rads,you would need a minimum of 2 samples from each end of the fan spectrum and show relative performance.

To be truthful tho,rad test are an exercise in repetition and hair splitting,dissipation rates dont really change in a significant manner. For me,impact on coolant flow rate is probably the most useful information along with FPI.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Being the nerd that I am, and knowing you're a scientific type as well, . . . I have to ask what methodology you're using to make that determination about how much air is being "pushed out", and under what flow conditions, free flow for example, were you evaluating to make that determination.
> 
> We both know that in physics, or in reality in general, there's no such thing as a free lunch.
> 
> The GTs have a power draw of draw of less than 1W, while most fans of similar specs have ratings in the 2 to 5W range . . . I have difficulty believing they all deliver similarly on their ratings.
> 
> How about setting up a simple test scenario like I did, where you just look at how much air flows thru a couple representative rads using the GT's and several other similar speed fans with different power draw specs.
> 
> There's so much confirmation bias attached the GTs for watercooling, that to say anything irreverent about them is tantamount to heresy.
> 
> I think you'll find that the biggest reason they seem so quiet is not because they have found the holy grail of magic blade design, but because they just don't move enough air to be as noisy as most of the other choices.
> 
> And while I'm rambling on and being generally critical, . . . when you do the rad tests, how about doing some relative airflow testing of the various RPM fans you use . . . .
> 
> There was quite a number of posts recently where posters were extoling the RPM range that one rad seemed to become more desirable over another, (monsta vs UT60) . .
> 
> But having thought about that, that discussion was all totally meaningless, as the actual determining factor was the airflow, not the frikken fan speed. . .
> 
> The pics I posted demonstrate that reality; If I had done rad tests with ~2200 rpm fans, and used the Corsairs on one rad and the Silverstones on another, the results would have shown that whatever rad the Silverstones were on would have been Much Better performing than the one the Corsairs were on . . .
> 
> And it would have been a False conclusion . . . the rad itself could have been considerably worse than the one with the corsairs, but the massive difference in airflow between the fan makes would have hidden that, if you did not know in advance that the difference in airflow rates was so great.
> 
> It's just absolutely foolish to do rad testing based on various fan rpms, instead of doing the testing at various established air flow rates thru the rad.
> 
> [/rant]
> 
> Darlene


A wall of text, just to ask a simple question. " How did you get your results?"

Don't want to sound rude, even though it seems like it, but if fan speed was irrelevant, why would there be a shift in component temperature that correlates to fan speed?

GT at 1200rpm perform the same as, lets say SP120s at the same rpm. but a lot quieter. Testing using the same components, and looking at component temperatures. Isn't component temperature what really matters in the end?


----------



## tsqu4red

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> WoW, is there a motherboard in there somewhere?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kidding, that's unique and great job


Haha....I really thought I was in way over my head when that radiator arrived...Luckily I was able to find some tools and custom made the mount...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsqu4red*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I just finish this build today and wanted to show you guys my new found love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great job, I dig the modifications, and overall look.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, I've finally reached install time







My Rads are in


----------



## IT Diva

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Being the nerd that I am, and knowing you're a scientific type as well, . . . I have to ask what methodology you're using to make that determination about how much air is being "pushed out", and under what flow conditions, free flow for example, were you evaluating to make that determination.
> 
> We both know that in physics, or in reality in general, there's no such thing as a free lunch.
> 
> The GTs have a power draw of draw of less than 1W, while most fans of similar specs have ratings in the 2 to 5W range . . . I have difficulty believing they all deliver similarly on their ratings.
> 
> How about setting up a simple test scenario like I did, where you just look at how much air flows thru a couple representative rads using the GT's and several other similar speed fans with different power draw specs.
> 
> There's so much confirmation bias attached the GTs for watercooling, that to say anything irreverent about them is tantamount to heresy.
> 
> I think you'll find that the biggest reason they seem so quiet is not because they have found the holy grail of magic blade design, but because they just don't move enough air to be as noisy as most of the other choices.
> 
> And while I'm rambling on and being generally critical, . . . when you do the rad tests, how about doing some relative airflow testing of the various RPM fans you use . . . .
> 
> There was quite a number of posts recently where posters were extoling the RPM range that one rad seemed to become more desirable over another, (monsta vs UT60) . .
> 
> But having thought about that, that discussion was all totally meaningless, as the actual determining factor was the airflow, not the frikken fan speed. . .
> 
> The pics I posted demonstrate that reality; If I had done rad tests with ~2200 rpm fans, and used the Corsairs on one rad and the Silverstones on another, the results would have shown that whatever rad the Silverstones were on would have been Much Better performing than the one the Corsairs were on . . .
> 
> And it would have been a False conclusion . . . the rad itself could have been considerably worse than the one with the corsairs, but the massive difference in airflow between the fan makes would have hidden that, if you did not know in advance that the difference in airflow rates was so great.
> 
> It's just absolutely foolish to do rad testing based on various fan rpms, instead of doing the testing at various established air flow rates thru the rad.
> 
> [/rant]
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...





A wall of text, just to ask a simple question. " How did you get your results?"

Don't want to sound rude, even though it seems like it, *but if fan speed was irrelevant, why would there be a shift in component temperature that correlates to fan speed*?

GT at 1200rpm perform the same as, lets say SP120s at the same rpm. but a lot quieter. *Testing using the same components, and looking at component temperatures. Isn't component temperature what really matters in the end*?

Because it isn't actually the fan speed that it's correlating to directly . . . . . RPM is only a fan specific, inferential correlation.

It's the actual CFM thru the rad that the temp correlates to, and it doesn't matter which fan you have, . . . X CFM = Y temp

If Fan A was the tester's fan, and gives you 50CFM thru the rad at 1200 rpm,

Getting the same 50 CFM thru the rad from Fan B may only need 900 rpm so that 1200 rpm would actually give ~65, . . . while Fan C needs 1600 rpm and Fan D needs 1800 rpm to get the 50CFM, then they'd only be getting 35 to 40 CFM at 1200 rpm

Fan B would give better results than the tester's fan, while C & D would have given worse.

Testing using the same components gets you relative information, but doesn't yield a particularly reliable way to extrapolate that to different components.

Relative testing can certainly help the tester evaluate what works best from the selection of options he has to work with, but it's poorly translatable beyond that . . . . .

That was the whole crux of the conversation.

Darlene


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsqu4red*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I just finish this build today and wanted to show you guys my new found love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip snap


Mmhhh, tasty!

SLI of Poseidons, like mine








What are your temps on CPU, GPUs and mosfet?


----------



## tsqu4red

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Mmhhh, tasty!
> 
> SLI of Poseidons, like mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are your temps on CPU, GPUs and mosfet?


Yeah those Poseidons and the motherboard with water cooling capabilities are what prompted me to build this loop














I just finished it yesterday and currently washing the loop and testing for leaks now. Will let you know!!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I wondering on the best settings for my radiators.

I am thinking of doing 4x Noctua NF-F12 @ 7V-12V in the top of my case with 1x Alphacool Nexxxos Monsta 480. I read somewhere that radiator-fans always should be set as intake, I have a fan-filter for this radiator so that is possible.
In the bottom I am thinking either, Monsta 480 with 4x SP120 High Pre. @ 7V ~ 1500 rpm (or push/pull with 8x Phobya G-Silent 700 rpm) or I could buy 4x SP120s more and use those to go push/pull on the Monsta 480 in the bottom.

Other than these fans, there will be 2x Akasa Quiet Pearl White 140 mm @ 1200 rpm fans as case-fans (intake) in the front and 1x Akasa Quiet Pearl White 120 mm @ 1200 rpm as exhaust/intake in the rear of the case.

What do you guys think?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I wondering on the best settings for my radiators.
> 
> I am thinking of doing 4x Noctua NF-F12 @ 7V-12V in the top of my case with 1x Alphacool Nexxxos Monsta 480. I read somewhere that radiator-fans always should be set as intake, I have a fan-filter for this radiator so that is possible.
> In the bottom I am thinking either, Monsta 480 with 4x SP120 High Pre. @ 7V ~ 1500 rpm (or push/pull with 8x Phobya G-Silent 700 rpm) or I could buy 4x SP120s more and use those to go push/pull on the Monsta 480 in the bottom.
> 
> Other than these fans, there will be 2x Akasa Quiet Pearl White 140 mm @ 1200 rpm fans as case-fans (intake) in the front and 1x Akasa Quiet Pearl White 120 mm @ 1200 rpm as exhaust/intake in the rear of the case.
> 
> What do you guys think?


I'd just go all AP-15s and call it a day. They are readily available from CoolerGuys now (both their website and Amazon.com (Coolerguys store)).


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I'd just go all AP-15s and call it a day. They are readily available from CoolerGuys now (both their website and Amazon.com (Coolerguys store)).


I know a lot of you guys in here prefer those AF-15's, but I am trying to build something to look nice and those fans does not look nice. (My opinion).

I guess I will use what I have until there is sale on the SP120's or something better comes along for a good price, 23 USD for a fan is too much.







Yes, I am cheap.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I'd just go all AP-15s and call it a day. They are readily available from CoolerGuys now (both their website and Amazon.com (Coolerguys store)).
> 
> 
> 
> I know a lot of you guys in here prefer those AF-15's, but I am trying to build something to look nice and those fans does not look nice. (My opinion).
> 
> I guess I will use what I have until there is sale on the SP120's or something better comes along for a good price, 23 USD for a fan is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I am cheap.
Click to expand...

I guess it depends on what you call expensive, but these are fantastic for rad fans. The sp is great in both the 120mm and 140mm flavors. I have been experimenting with them on 45mm and 60mm rads and they out perform The Corsair 'High SP' fans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103191



These are two of mine


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I'd just go all AP-15s and call it a day. They are readily available from CoolerGuys now (both their website and Amazon.com (Coolerguys store)).
> 
> 
> 
> I know a lot of you guys in here prefer those AF-15's, but I am trying to build something to look nice and those fans does not look nice. (My opinion).
> 
> I guess I will use what I have until there is sale on the SP120's or something better comes along for a good price, 23 USD for a fan is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I am cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess it depends on what you call expensive, but these are fantastic for rad fans. The sp is great in both the 120mm and 140mm flavors. I have been experimenting with them on 45mm and 60mm rads and they out perform The Corsair 'High SP' fans
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103191
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are two of mine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

The ones you linked are not the ones you pictured . . . .

The ones you linked have half the current draw as the ones in the pic . . .

You couldn't reasonably expect anywhere near the same results.

Given the frame and blade shapes, I wouldn't use them on a rad if they gave me a case of them in my choice of colors......

Darlene


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I know a lot of you guys in here prefer those AF-15's, but I am trying to build something to look nice and those fans does not look nice. (My opinion).
> 
> I guess I will use what I have until there is sale on the SP120's or something better comes along for a good price, 23 USD for a fan is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I am cheap.


They look at heck of a lot nicer than NF-F12s. Are cheaper than the regular NF-F12 by ~$8-10, and by ~$13 for the iPPC version. Have better performance, and much better acoustics (considerably quieter than every other fan on the market). Aeons better than the SP120s too. And considerably better built.

And you are rarely going to even see your fans at all in a case. And the times you see them, they are going to be spinning. Which when spinning, they look no different than 99.999% of the fans on the market.

I'm sorry, but I just don't get people, fans, and Noctua/Corsair. They aren't remotely good. That's like buying Apple computers for the brand name. Yeah, you have the brand name, but do they perform as well as a cheaper alternative? Generally no. And in the case of Noctua, they don't even have looks going for them like Apple products. It really mystifies me.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I'd just go all AP-15s and call it a day. They are readily available from CoolerGuys now (both their website and Amazon.com (Coolerguys store)).
> 
> 
> 
> I know a lot of you guys in here prefer those AF-15's, but I am trying to build something to look nice and those fans does not look nice. (My opinion).
> 
> I guess I will use what I have until there is sale on the SP120's or something better comes along for a good price, 23 USD for a fan is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I am cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess it depends on what you call expensive, but these are fantastic for rad fans. The sp is great in both the 120mm and 140mm flavors. I have been experimenting with them on 45mm and 60mm rads and they out perform The Corsair 'High SP' fans
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103191
> 
> 
> 
> These are two of mine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The ones you linked are not the ones you pictured . . . .
> 
> The ones you linked have half the current draw as the ones in the pic . . .
> 
> You couldn't reasonably expect anywhere near the same results.
> 
> Given the frame and blade shapes, I wouldn't use them on a rad if they gave me a case of them in my choice of colors......
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

No Kidding, The two in the picture are the 140mm versions of the jet flows. I have tried them both on 10FPI rads and they work superbly. Your 'Blade by sight" radar is off.

but most peoples are

your loss.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok then. I have moved most of my airflow in a push or pull for my Rads... Can anyone tell me why I am considering watercooling my HDD's with a bitspower hdd waterblock?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17144/ex-blc-1333/Bitspower_HDD_Acrylic_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clear_BP-HDS350AC-CL.html?tl=g30c203&id=c2s5m5GJ
> 
> Someone has to have done this already.. Pics?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps on hwmonitor for my HDD is 40c (while gaming, drops to 38c during normal op)
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Actually, I do plan on WC'ing my HDDs'* as well. Just makes sense for my build because the HDD cage is coming out and the RAID is moving into the bottom of the 5.25 Bay. I'm considering the Koolance dual HDD system or the Watercool SILENT star Dual setup. More likely the WC unit so I can keep everything at one end and I won't have to mix anything to insulate the spindle and boards and block the power/data ports. My lower two 5.25 bays are open so it would be the best idea since sliced bread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Save your money Ceadder,unless you are in the tropics,all watercooling drives does is lower reliability.
> 
> http://research.google.com/archive/disk_failures.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Looks funky tho.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That is FPM, not CFM. I am with you on showing how rads dissipate heat with airflow but that means nothing to the average user because they control temps by fan rpm. Of course these are meant to be relative tests, doing watts dissipated is based on a constant delta T (loop - ambient) value as well which is not realistic either.
> 
> The way I have it now for the thermal tests (something requested by users and manufacturers alike) is delta T vs fan rpm. It will be a relative performance test, including the Air restriction and liquid restriction numbers because everything is relative- exact fittings used, ambient temps, fan used, control used, load applied, components used for the load and so on.
> 
> The watts dissipated vs FPM (CFM again depends on the duct size, distance between the duct and fan, distance between the duct and the anemometer) is what I will try to get done for a separate section. But I don't see that being representative of the mode it is going to be employed. Am I mistaken here? I am all for learning and improving here so it's a genuine question.
> 
> Edit: Doing watts dissipated or even delta T vs FPM/CFM also means having a library of FPM/CFM vs RPM for several fans to make it translate into useful data for people in my opinion. Again going back to the whole people using temps vs RPM in practice.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> FPM=Feet per minute,its a measure of velocity,not volume.
> 
> Delta v RPM is easily replicated and is RL condition testing for FAN tests,to do this for rads,you would need a minimum of 2 samples from each end of the fan spectrum and show relative performance.
> 
> To be truthful tho,rad test are an exercise in repetition and hair splitting,dissipation rates dont really change in a significant manner. For me,impact on coolant flow rate is probably the most useful information along with FPI.
Click to expand...

@tp I am not too worried about reliability as I am in the last year of warranty on both my Drives and I'm really not interested in cooling them with a fan since my mod is gonna kibosh *alot* of the airflow going to the 5.25 bay. I do intend to go with a mini ITX setup to build my own NAS box but that's a future project and my drives will need to be cooled better than at ambient temp. Especially in the Summers. If I had something hold them inside a flow path(HDD cage is gone afaic) then I wouldn't even sweat including them in the loop.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsqu4red*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I just finish this build today and wanted to show you guys my new found love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great job, I dig the modifications, and overall look.
Click to expand...

For sure but man that thing would look like a BOSS with Hardline instead of flexible tubing. Yeah I know... but I been BIT an hard by the Hardline bug.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Got a couple quick questions

1. Would a dual 180mm rad be enough for a 4790k, chipset , and either two 980s? (or a 990 if one is made)

2. Would a single DDC pump have enough flow for CPU, Chipset, Ram, and 1-2 GPUs?

3. Is a DDC pump like the D5 is the aspect of it can be mounting in any position except upside down?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> @tp I am not too worried about reliability as I am in the last year of warranty on both my Drives and I'm really not interested in cooling them with a fan since my mod is gonna kibosh *alot* of the airflow going to the 5.25 bay. I do intend to go with a mini ITX setup to build my own NAS box but that's a future project and my drives will need to be cooled better than at ambient temp. Especially in the Summers. If I had something hold them inside a flow path(HDD cage is gone afaic) then I wouldn't even sweat including them in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For sure but man that thing would look like a BOSS with Hardline instead of flexible tubing. Yeah I know... but I been BIT an hard by the Hardline bug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, nothing beats the clean look of Hardline tubing. Maybe one day I'll try it again too.

I just got done leak testing and wiring my machine. I just need to re-do the wiring for my lights.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lookin good LBH.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Got a couple quick questions
> 
> 1. Would a dual 180mm rad be enough for a 4790k, chipset , and either two 980s? (or a 990 if one is made)
> 
> 2. Would a single DDC pump have enough flow for CPU, Chipset, Ram, and 1-2 GPUs?
> 
> 3. Is a DDC pump like the D5 is the aspect of it can be mounting in any position except upside down?


1. Pretty sure that would do the job.

2. Should, but paired with the dual 180 I am not sure that it would be up to the task since I don't know the kind of restrictions you're working with. Others who do run DDC and a dual 180 should have better knowledge than me. Heck I run dual DDC for my lowly 360, CPU and MB blocks.









3. Yes DDC can be mounted in any position except upside down.









~Ceadder


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Because it isn't actually the fan speed that it's correlating to directly . . . . . RPM is only a fan specific, inferential correlation.
> 
> It's the actual CFM thru the rad that the temp correlates to, and it doesn't matter which fan you have, . . . X CFM = Y temp
> 
> If Fan A was the tester's fan, and gives you 50CFM thru the rad at 1200 rpm,
> 
> Getting the same 50 CFM thru the rad from Fan B may only need 900 rpm so that 1200 rpm would actually give ~65, . . . while Fan C needs 1600 rpm and Fan D needs 1800 rpm to get the 50CFM, then they'd only be getting 35 to 40 CFM at 1200 rpm
> 
> Fan B would give better results than the tester's fan, while C & D would have given worse.
> 
> Testing using the same components gets you relative information, but doesn't yield a particularly reliable way to extrapolate that to different components.
> 
> 
> 
> Relative testing can certainly help the tester evaluate what works best from the selection of options he has to work with, but it's poorly translatable beyond that . . . . .
> 
> That was the whole crux of the conversation.
> 
> Darlene


Any one who picks a fan wholly based on RPM is like this guy

as for measuring air flow by velocity rather than volume probably didn't study physics

Yes you are right you will need something like a mass air flow meter and from my experience with ultra sonic/mag flow meters the lead into the meter will need to at very bare minimum 5x the diameter of the pipe and 10x diameter behind to prevent turbulence giving inaccurate readings. in some installation guides they will even recommend up to 20x in front and 50x behind.

and don.t be confused with car mass air flow meter installations as they are calibrated to computer and O2 sensor


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Because it isn't actually the fan speed that it's correlating to directly . . . . . RPM is only a fan specific, inferential correlation.
> 
> It's the actual CFM thru the rad that the temp correlates to, and it doesn't matter which fan you have, . . . X CFM = Y temp
> 
> If Fan A was the tester's fan, and gives you 50CFM thru the rad at 1200 rpm,
> 
> Getting the same 50 CFM thru the rad from Fan B may only need 900 rpm so that 1200 rpm would actually give ~65, . . . while Fan C needs 1600 rpm and Fan D needs 1800 rpm to get the 50CFM, then they'd only be getting 35 to 40 CFM at 1200 rpm
> 
> Fan B would give better results than the tester's fan, while C & D would have given worse.
> 
> Testing using the same components gets you relative information, but doesn't yield a particularly reliable way to extrapolate that to different components.
> 
> 
> 
> Relative testing can certainly help the tester evaluate what works best from the selection of options he has to work with, but it's poorly translatable beyond that . . . . .
> 
> That was the whole crux of the conversation.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any one who picks a fan wholly based on RPM is like this guy
> 
> as for measuring air flow by velocity rather than volume probably didn't study physics
> 
> Yes you are right you will need something like a mass air flow meter and from my experience with ultra sonic/mag flow meters the lead into the meter will need to at very bare minimum 5x the diameter of the pipe and 10x diameter behind to prevent turbulence giving inaccurate readings. in some installation guides they will even recommend up to 20x in front and 50x behind.
> 
> and don.t be confused with car mass air flow meter installations as they are calibrated to computer and O2 sensor
Click to expand...

Actually, if you know the velocity and several other factors, you can determine the CFM.

Modern technology is pretty amazing, there are a lot of instruments of more than sufficient accuracy, available at prices that an enthusiast can manage, that were unimaginable not that many years ago.

I just ordered one of these today so that I can get real CFM numbers to do some more testing:

http://www.amazonsupply.com/amprobe-tma10a-anemometer-flexible-precision/dp/B0028YQI3Y

Darlene


----------



## WeirdHarold

So tubing in and pump has been running for hours now and no leaks


----------



## ForTheHorde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So tubing in and pump has been running for hours now and no leaks


That purple n green looks nice


----------



## ledzepp3

Hey everyone







I asked this a while ago, but got no response unfortunately









Currently I've got a 360mm and a 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator in my rig. I'm running a 3930K (4.4GHz, 1.36-1.376V) along with dual Radeon 290Xs (1050/1320, stock volts). While folding, the CPU will hit 73C on the hottest core, and the 290Xs will top out at 55C on the top card with an ambient of around 23.3C in my room. I'm wanting to try to push my CPU even further than I have it already, but the only way I can see to lower my temps without making my rig super loud is to stick another rad in it... I've got space for a thin 480mm radiator in the top for exhaust, would that make a decent sized dent in my temps?

I'm also suspicious that I've got a bad mount on my CPU. I need to tear it down and drain it to swap a few loop parts, so I'll try remounting and looking for better temps. Also, would it be worth it going from a normal EK Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO?

Thanks









-Zepp


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked this a while ago, but got no response unfortunately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I've got a 360mm and a 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator in my rig. I'm running a 3930K (4.4GHz, 1.36-1.376V) along with dual Radeon 290Xs (1050/1320, stock volts). While folding, the CPU will hit 73C on the hottest core, and the 290Xs will top out at 55C on the top card with an ambient of around 23.3C in my room. I'm wanting to try to push my CPU even further than I have it already, but the only way I can see to lower my temps without making my rig super loud is to stick another rad in it... I've got space for a thin 480mm radiator in the top for exhaust, would that make a decent sized dent in my temps?
> 
> I'm also suspicious that I've got a bad mount on my CPU. I need to tear it down and drain it to swap a few loop parts, so I'll try remounting and looking for better temps. Also, would it be worth it going from a normal EK Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


With that much rad space, I'd say your first step should be to check the mount. The 480 wouldn't hurt, but I don't think you'd need it. Dunno about the Supremacy vs EVO comparison, though. Haven't been following along much.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked this a while ago, but got no response unfortunately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I've got a 360mm and a 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator in my rig. I'm running a 3930K (4.4GHz, 1.36-1.376V) along with dual Radeon 290Xs (1050/1320, stock volts). While folding, the CPU will hit 73C on the hottest core, and the 290Xs will top out at 55C on the top card with an ambient of around 23.3C in my room. I'm wanting to try to push my CPU even further than I have it already, but the only way I can see to lower my temps without making my rig super loud is to stick another rad in it... I've got space for a thin 480mm radiator in the top for exhaust, would that make a decent sized dent in my temps?
> 
> I'm also suspicious that I've got a bad mount on my CPU. I need to tear it down and drain it to swap a few loop parts, so I'll try remounting and looking for better temps. Also, would it be worth it going from a normal EK Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Well I look at it like this when looking at CPU blocks...

If I'm gonna spend $80+ on a new CPU block the reasons are:

Broken
At least a 5 deg performance gain
Changing color/look of my loop
I have an RoG board and have the EK Supreme. It's an outstanding block. It fits my color scheme quite well although I would like one of the new Epogee blocks with the RoG logo. But if I am gonna spend that kind of change, it has to be worth it. Epogee is a solid block but the performance gain is negligible and looks are great an all but not worth $80 unless I inherit a BC bank. The new Clean CSQ blocks are interesting but I'm relatively sure that the gains with those aren't currently worth it.

Which leads me to...

Building another system. Now THERE is where I will spend my $80+. Then it comes right down to who has the better performance an if Epogee is that then it goes in the current system and if I can get a new/slightly used Supreme top that matches my choice of colors for the new system, it's all good in Ceadderland.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakewat

Hey guys, few questions about the aquero 5 lt that I will be using for my build in the next few months:

•I should be fine hooking 8x 1850 GT's upto one channel and 3x 1450's to another right?

•I don't have a PWM pump but it does have a rpm readout, do i just connect this to any spare fan header?

•Can you setup warnings for the pump rpm failing/ dropping to a certain point, or do I need a flow meter?

•If I want to attach a heatsink to the fan chips (not one made by aquero) should I screw it on or use adhesive compound?

Though I would ask here first as I assume many people in the watercooling thread would have experience on these.
Any tips or info you would like to add would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> With that much rad space, I'd say your first step should be to check the mount. The 480 wouldn't hurt, but I don't think you'd need it. Dunno about the Supremacy vs EVO comparison, though. Haven't been following along much.


I'll definitely try the mount first to see if that helps. I don't think the orientation of the block would make a huge difference in temperatures, and I'd have to redo some of tubing setup around the CPU socket.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I look at it like this when looking at CPU blocks...
> 
> If I'm gonna spend $80+ on a new CPU block the reasons are:
> 
> Broken
> At least a 5 deg performance gain
> Changing color/look of my loop
> I have an RoG board and have the EK Supreme. It's an outstanding block. It fits my color scheme quite well although I would like one of the new Epogee blocks with the RoG logo. But if I am gonna spend that kind of change, it has to be worth it. Epogee is a solid block but the performance gain is negligible and looks are great an all but not worth $80 unless I inherit a BC bank. The new Clean CSQ blocks are interesting but I'm relatively sure that the gains with those aren't currently worth it.
> 
> Which leads me to...
> 
> Building another system. Now THERE is where I will spend my $80+. Then it comes right down to who has the better performance an if Epogee is that then it goes in the current system and if I can get a new/slightly used Supreme top that matches my choice of colors for the new system, it's all good in Ceadderland.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I used to have an Apogee HD, it was a wicked sweet block







I really like EK products as well as Swiftech, but I wanna keep the entire block setup EK.

Thank you guys for the advice







I'll do another mount within a few weeks when I clean out my fan filters, and report back if there's any changes









-Zepp


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Got a new desk and added some lights.


----------



## RedSky86

First run and it works fine.


----------



## Spawne32

Id put a little foam strip (that adhesive kind at home depot) around the edge of the back side of that radiator on the case side to seal up the edges so you get better suction through the radiator.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked this a while ago, but got no response unfortunately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I've got a 360mm and a 560mm Black Ice SR-1 radiator in my rig. I'm running a 3930K (4.4GHz, 1.36-1.376V) along with dual Radeon 290Xs (1050/1320, stock volts). While folding, the CPU will hit 73C on the hottest core, and the 290Xs will top out at 55C on the top card with an ambient of around 23.3C in my room. I'm wanting to try to push my CPU even further than I have it already, but the only way I can see to lower my temps without making my rig super loud is to stick another rad in it... I've got space for a thin 480mm radiator in the top for exhaust, would that make a decent sized dent in my temps?
> 
> I'm also suspicious that I've got a bad mount on my CPU. I need to tear it down and drain it to swap a few loop parts, so I'll try remounting and looking for better temps. Also, would it be worth it going from a normal EK Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


Without knowing your coolant temps or your individual processors IHS->Core temp delta we cannot say whether or not more rad space will help you.

Like stated, I would first look at your mount since your GPU temps are not bad so your rads seem to be enough.


----------



## Aesonus

Finished this guy about a week ago. First water cooled build.
http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/corylcomposinger/media/colorCorrected1_zpsa6341cc5.jpg.html


Spoiler: Some more glamour shots



http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/corylcomposinger/media/ReserviorFeature_zps6a851758.jpg.html

http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/corylcomposinger/media/cpuCloseup_zps3046caa3.jpg.html





Spoiler: Decided to put all my hard drives in a bookshelf. I used some aluminium piece thingies to attach the cages to the top. I also cut a fan hole and stuck a fan there too.



http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/corylcomposinger/media/HDDCabinet_zpsc39ed7e3.jpg.html


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Beautiful James


----------



## fast_fate

I'ld like to comment on the rad testing discussion a few pages back (sorry, been a bit distracted at home and just catching up)

Heat dissipation that a rad is capable of can be a rather tricky thing to determine, and as I have discovered requires quite a specific testing environment.
Using a running system for the heat/power load just isn't doable because so much heat is lost into the air from the components that the actual load on the rad is unknown.
You need

a custom test environment where the heat source can be controlled - an aquarium heater is the tool for this. (safety must be bypassed though for a constant load)
everything must be fully insulated to avoid heat loss into the air, so that a known power/heat load is entering the rad.
multiple temp sensors on rad ports and air inlet (ambient) to get good averages to base the data on.
Rad testing is definitely not for everyone as it can require a lot of patience, redoing tests is not uncommon to get truly accurate data.
Usually the hardest variable to control is a steady ambient temp over the test period - I've settled for 0.5°C variance over a 15 minute test period (after equalization)
Coolant temp equalization can be frustratingly difficult to achieve, with multiple temp sensors that detect small changes, either from power input, or ambient air.








Another weird one to overcome is the mains power variance - even when I control the aquarium heater with a Variac, the mains supply often throws my test out with different Power levels at different temperatures and times of the day.
So have to keep an eye on this for constant/ish load to the coolant from the heater.
3 Watts (1%) power difference will change the coolant temps - blowing averages for the test, and having to restart.
Likewise the ambient air temps greatly affect the coolant temp readings (obviously) - even walking in front of the air intake of the test chamber gives small spikes in air temp.
It is not very tester friendly - rad thermal testing !!!

A formula for heat dissipation can be used to calculate the power being removed from the coolant by the rad (in watts)
This info in itself is still a specific figure for that particular test set environment for the given test parameters (ambient temp, flow rate, fan rpm, CFM ect)
I find it useful myself so will be including it in my results when I post them.
But a watts dissipated by itself without the parameters is useless.
For example you can have 2 tests with different fan speeds - high and low (high & low CFM) that have very similar Watts Dissipated results - because the power/heat input is the same,
But of course the DeltaT number is hugely different with the 2 tests, as the low speed fans won't be able to get the coolant anywhere near as low as the high speed fans - up to 10°C difference I've seen recently.

Solution is of course that we combine the DeltaT with the known and controlled power/heat input gives us a thermal test result which is much more comparable result.

So the piece of data that matters the most IMHO is the W/10C - being the Watts Dissipated per 10°C DeltaT
or even a W/1C - Watts Dissipated per 1°C DeltaT.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesonus*
> 
> Finished this guy about a week ago. First water cooled build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/corylcomposinger/media/colorCorrected1_zpsa6341cc5.jpg.html


That looks absolutely fantastic. I really like the red/blue thing--very similar color scheme to my current build and I think it works very well with soft tubing, which I am happy with for the moment. Supposedly the tubing doesn't hold up very well to UV light, but so far I've been pleasantly surprised.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually, if you know the velocity and several other factors, you can determine the CFM.
> 
> Modern technology is pretty amazing, there are a lot of instruments of more than sufficient accuracy, available at prices that an enthusiast can manage, that were unimaginable not that many years ago.
> 
> I just ordered one of these today so that I can get real CFM numbers to do some more testing:
> 
> http://www.amazonsupply.com/amprobe-tma10a-anemometer-flexible-precision/dp/B0028YQI3Y
> 
> Darlene


looks interesting

what a was referring to is yes is possible to calculate volume with velocity, it is simply velocity x πr²
Just the piping lead to and from the anemometer needs to be sufficient to prevent turbulence
but I am curious if Ø120mm to anemometer Ø70mm head might create a pressure zone skewing readings as looking at the specifications on the anemometer there is no mention of atmospheric pressure sensor

I am wondering if will also test fans though a fixed restriction and free flowing (not just the radiator as restriction) to also test static pressure of the fans (restrictive case simulation)
Are you going to use a dB meter also

I am Glad you will be Graphing volume rather than velocity to make interpretable useful information. I look forward to your test results


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForTheHorde*
> 
> That purple n green looks nice


Thanks, yeah for whatever reason the UV Led's that I got show up as purple? But the contrast between purple and green looks really awesome in person


----------



## Nichismo

Hey guys, was curious what anyone thought on my cable coloring... The white cables have heatshrink and the red extensions dont, so they dont match up too well, but I wanted to see how it turned out. Im going to order VGA and 24pin custom extensions from Ensourced and im trying to decide the color. I was probably going to go with red and black on the 24 pin, but have the top row of cables red, and the bottom row grey/black spiraled, and then the same for the VGA but white replacing the red.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Where do you get those custom covers, like the ones youve had made for SLI bridges too? and what material is that?

I really want some, for an SLI bridge and block terminal, and for the side of my cieling radiator fans, like how this rig has:



ive attempted to get some made from ColdZero but ive gotten barely any communication or interest it seems so I gave up


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Hey guys, was curious what anyone thought on my cable coloring... The white cables have heatshrink and the red extensions dont, so they dont match up too well, but I wanted to see how it turned out. Im going to order VGA and 24pin custom extensions from Ensourced and im trying to decide the color. I was probably going to go with red and black on the 24 pin, but have the top row of cables red, and the bottom row grey/black spiraled, and then the same for the VGA but white replacing the red.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where do you get those custom covers, like the ones youve had made for SLI bridges too? and what material is that?
> 
> I really want some, for an SLI bridge and block terminal, and for the side of my cieling radiator fans, like how this rig has:
> 
> 
> 
> ive attempted to get some made from ColdZero but ive gotten barely any communication or interest it seems so I gave up


Great Job - Very Nice







+Rep


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedSky86*
> 
> First run and it works fine.


dude this looks beautiful..

like it alot..!


----------



## RedSky86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> dude this looks beautiful..
> 
> like it alot..!


Thanks 

In a few days i will post some better pics!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Thanks, yeah for whatever reason the UV Led's that I got show up as purple? But the contrast between purple and green looks really awesome in person


A number of UV lights are usually purple, especially the ones used for non destructive testing (NDT, also known as NDE or NDI) liquid penetration tests.


----------



## TheTou

my first attempt at water cooling


----------



## ledzepp3

Has anyone seen this random HardawreLabs SR-2 page? It seems to give sizes for all the radiators in the line








http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/component/content/article/12-black-ice/sr-2/39-sr2

-Zepp


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's hot.


----------



## Aesonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That looks absolutely fantastic. I really like the red/blue thing--very similar color scheme to my current build and I think it works very well with soft tubing, which I am happy with for the moment. Supposedly the tubing doesn't hold up very well to UV light, but so far I've been pleasantly surprised.


I almost didn't go with uv clear/blue tubing, but I'm really glad I did. Turned out waay better than I expected.
I haven't heard anything about tubing not holding up to UV, but it makes sense considering how destructive certain spectrums of UV can be. The light that I'm using is Phobya led flex light in UV (obviously). I felt that cold cathodes would be more trouble than they're worth.


----------



## lowfat

FINALLY dropped my Lian Li off to get powder coated. At this rate I may even finish the system by the end of the year.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Jameswalt1 has built some of the best water cooling rigs on OCN, photography skills are also very impressive. Great Job man!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTou*
> 
> my first attempt at water cooling


Not bad at all. Is that a Prodigy case?


----------



## TheTou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Not bad at all. Is that a Prodigy case?


Yes it is


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTou*
> 
> my first attempt at water cooling


That's a work of art


----------



## Nichismo

There should be a dedicated club/thread for all rigid tubing builds, tutorials, new products and general discussion. Its becoming more and more popular and thus is being more recognized and catered to by the watercooling companies, but at the same time it is still a little daunting for alot of beginners and even veteran overclockers alike.


----------



## VSG

But there are: http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/0_50 , http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/0_50

and having pics in here leads to people wanting to know more about it and head over there, as was the case with me. So I think it's good the way it is personally.


----------



## electro2u

I actually really like the look of soft tubing when it's not too long. But I'm wanting to go to rigid because my tubing doesn't stay perfectly clear for very long. A month and it starts to get a little bit of haze to it. Sometimes even sooner.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> But there are: http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/0_50 , http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/0_50
> 
> and having pics in here leads to people wanting to know more about it and head over there, as was the case with me. So I think it's good the way it is personally.


Oh I never noticed those, perhaps I should have looked before making a proposal.

However those seem to be dedicated to the pipe bending process. Personally, i have never built an acrylic loop with bending the actual tubing, ive always had fittings at every angle. and from my own experience, it seems like most people who take this route are very focused on either maintaining 90 degree angles and horizontal/vertical lines only, or symmetry of the lines. This alone vastly changes almost the entire construct and theme of the builds.

Not to sound selfish but I wasnt so much concerned with helping beginners with acrylic loops, but just moreso a general area of specific watercooling aesthetics in rigid tubing where anything can be mentioned. i.e. has anyone used those new Barrow acrylic tubes ive been seeing, or digital storm is now offering rigid tubing in their mini-itx bolt, etc.


----------



## VSG

The first link I posted is still likely the best place for that, I have seen people go with bending or just fittings for the angles as well in there. I could be wrong of course, a general rigid tubing thread may well be a success!


----------



## Yey09

Which TIM is better, the ectotherm that came with the EK block, an arctic silver ceramique 2 or a ZP heatsink compound?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesonus*
> 
> Finished this guy about a week ago. First water cooled build.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Some more glamour shots
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/corylcomposinger/media/ReserviorFeature_zps6a851758.jpg.htmlhttp://s1383.photobucket.com/user/corylcomposinger/media/colorCorrected1_zpsa6341cc5.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/corylcomposinger/media/cpuCloseup_zps3046caa3.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Decided to put all my hard drives in a bookshelf. I used some aluminium piece thingies to attach the cages to the top. I also cut a fan hole and stuck a fan there too.
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/corylcomposinger/media/HDDCabinet_zpsc39ed7e3.jpg.html


How did you work that with your HDD array?







Did you connect your array via MB I/O or through the MB? I think I know how to mount mine to the surface(underneath) of my desk but with my FT on top of it, that would be a heck of a length of SATA cable and I've got SATA 6 so I'm not even sure I can get the correct cables of that kind of length.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTou*
> 
> my first attempt at water cooling
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet job for first WC'ing rig.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> But there are: http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/0_50 , http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/0_50
> 
> and having pics in here leads to people wanting to know more about it and head over there, as was the case with me. So I think it's good the way it is personally.


Good knowledge. Thanks for passing that along.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aesonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> How did you work that with your HDD array?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you connect your array via MB I/O or through the MB? I think I know how to mount mine to the surface(underneath) of my desk but with my FT on top of it, that would be a heck of a length of SATA cable and I've got SATA 6 so I'm not even sure I can get the correct cables of that kind of length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet job for first WC'ing rig.


Thanks for the compliment. I spent a lot of time and money on it. 











Now for the data connections I used the motherboard io and ran the 6ft sata cables behind the mobo then up and around the power supply and out of a pci slot using these cables: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812422750

I did the same for the power and I bought this extension to help:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812123317
and this:
http://www.jab-tech.com/power-supply-extension-and-adapter-cables/24-molex-to-four-sata-single-braid-sleeved-black/

I am thinking about cutting a hole in the back of the cover behind the mobo to run all those cables there to clean up the look. Still not sure as I don't want to do something irreversible.


----------



## pc-illiterate

hey ledzepp3 your link for the sr-2 rads is a dead end 404.
i finally got caught up after being 200+ pages behind...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hey ledzepp3 your link for the sr-2 rads is a dead end 404.
> i finally got caught up after being 200+ pages behind...


Was working yesterday - displayed a main page with overviews of each of the 120mm and 140mm sizes
BUT
the the links to pages for each rad size didn't go through.
WIP me thinks


----------



## nismoskyline

My ghetto mess:

My ghetto results:

My tec project is coming along nicely, and I got my goal of 0c temps!









if you want to see more check out my build log- black tundra


----------



## mus1mus

Received these fittings today.

Together with 12Pcs 1/2" OD X 36" Hard Tubing from Primochill.

Should be enough for a NOOB, right?









Does a 1/2" OD tube feel like this small??









Anything that can help me with these are gladly welcomed.


----------



## P206GTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Received these fittings today.
> 
> Together with 12Pcs 1/2" OD X 36" Hard Tubing from Primochill.
> 
> Should be enough for a NOOB, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does a 1/2" OD tube feel like this small??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anything that can help me with these are gladly welcomed.


Is it petg or regular tubing ? The only dif between them is that petg allowd your with more room for mistakes, if you are new to hard tubing i would recommend this because is not expensive and you already have the fittings.
Another thing i would recommend is the monsoon bending kit, it has all angles, with this you are good to go.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Received these fittings today.
> 
> Together with 12Pcs 1/2" OD X 36" Hard Tubing from Primochill.
> 
> Should be enough for a NOOB, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does a 1/2" OD tube feel like this small??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anything that can help me with these are gladly welcomed.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *P206GTI*
> 
> Is it petg or regular tubing ? The only dif between them is that petg allowd your with more room for mistakes, if you are new to hard tubing i would recommend this because is not expensive and you already have the fittings.
> Another thing i would recommend is the monsoon bending kit, it has all angles, with this you are good to go.
Click to expand...

Tubing from PrimoChill.

So, PETG.

Thanks for the tips.


----------



## P206GTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Tubing from PrimoChill.
> 
> So, PETG.
> 
> Thanks for the tips.


No problem,


----------



## Trestles126

received the jist of my parts yesterday to finish the build. a lot of new tech since i last built a computer 10 years ago!

getting ready to test my loop. currently testing it with air with the use of a on/off valve at the lowest point and threaded in a home made gauge and air valve. pumped 10psi into it and has held.

so first update pics then I will ask a few questions that have been holding me up

received my 4790k 4ghz processor
2 sticks of 4g skills sniper ram 1866
750g supernova PSU
mounted cpu and supremacy block yesterday re bent up one tube and filled it with air to test while I'm out of town working
changed the T and on off valve set up by adding a 90 fitting and getting it a bit more easy to use.

\

questions

=I have 4 PWM fans all on my radiators. they are 4 pin should i get a front 5.25 fan controller and control those separately? if so any suggestions on clean well built controllers? i was looking at the Lamptron touch screen

-my other 3 fans are all 3 pin one is the 200 intake up front, i have a corsair AF 140 in the rear and a phanteks 140 up top.
my case has the phanteks fan hub splitter. Should i just hook up these 3 fans to that and then the splitter to the CPU main fan port as well as the SATA 12v connection?

- The phanteks enthoo luxe has a lot of open area underneath the top pop off cover. I have a few bitzpower fittings and acrylic left over. I was thinking of making a fill port hardline up to the top of the chasi that will be concealed with the top plastic pressed on down to the top of my EK tube res. this should be no problem correct? instead of filling up from the top cap i can pop the top off and unthread a cap from a fill port fitting at the top of the chase and fill from there?

- Ive read a few articles about leak testing the system. already doing it with air but plan on doing it with coolant as well. from what I've read you have to jump the mobo wire off your PSU by jumping the green and black wire? don't wanna mess anything up so pretty much unhook everything plug in pump and jump the mobo cable thats connected to PSU.

- can't find any info on where to plug in the blue 1 pin cable from the EK d5 pump? is this optional to get variable pump speeds based on MOBO readings? like a PWM fan?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> received the jist of my parts yesterday to finish the build. a lot of new tech since i last built a computer 10 years ago!
> 
> getting ready to test my loop. currently testing it with air with the use of a on/off valve at the lowest point and threaded in a home made gauge and air valve. pumped 10psi into it and has held.


I'd like to see pics of how you did your air leak test gauge & valve to see how it compares with my setup.
Quote:


> so first update pics then I will ask a few questions that have been holding me up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> received my 4790k 4ghz processor
> 2 sticks of 4g skills sniper ram 1866
> 750g supernova PSU
> mounted cpu and supremacy block yesterday re bent up one tube and filled it with air to test while I'm out of town working
> changed the T and on off valve set up by adding a 90 fitting and getting it a bit more easy to use.
> 
> \
> 
> 
> 
> questions
> 
> =I have 4 PWM fans all on my radiators. they are 4 pin should i get a front 5.25 fan controller and control those separately? if so any suggestions on clean well built controllers? i was looking at the Lamptron touch screen


You'll likely need an Aquaero 6 to control anything more than a few Corsair PWM fans. If you have 4 or less Corsair PWM fans then you should probably just use something like the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter and control them from your CPU_FAN header, though that will spoil any plans to use the same header for the Phanteks hub you mention below.

Be aware that Corsair PWM SP120s have issues where control of more than 3-4 fans per PWM header are iffy at best. Once you add a 4th, 5th, or if you're lucky a 6th fan to a header they tend to lose PWM control and revert to full speed. They are the only PWM fan known to have that problem. The Aquaero 6 is one of the few PWM fan controllers available and has been revised to allow it to control more Corsair PWM fans per channel.

Here's a recent post from Darlene (IT Diva) discussing the limitations of PWM fan control and mentioning the issue with Corsair PWM fans and here's one where she discusses controlling them with the Aquaero 6.
Quote:


> -my other 3 fans are all 3 pin one is the 200 intake up front, i have a corsair AF 140 in the rear and a phanteks 140 up top.
> my case has the phanteks fan hub splitter. Should i just hook up these 3 fans to that and then the splitter to the CPU main fan port as well as the SATA 12v connection?


The Phanteks splitter hub would be fine if it works correctly for you. Unfortunately a lot of people have trouble with it. It's designed to let you control 3 pin voltage controlled fans using the PWM signal from your mobo, so for most mobos that means you must use the CPU_FAN header, and the SATA connector should only be used if you are running more fans attached to the hub than the mobo header can handle by itself.
Quote:


> - The phanteks enthoo luxe has a lot of open area underneath the top pop off cover. I have a few bitzpower fittings and acrylic left over. I was thinking of making a fill port hardline up to the top of the chasi that will be concealed with the top plastic pressed on down to the top of my EK tube res. this should be no problem correct? instead of filling up from the top cap i can pop the top off and unthread a cap from a fill port fitting at the top of the chase and fill from there?


There shouldn't any issues with running a tube up to the top of the case from the fill port on a res. I've done similar myself more than once.
Quote:


> - Ive read a few articles about leak testing the system. already doing it with air but plan on doing it with coolant as well. from what I've read you have to jump the mobo wire off your PSU by jumping the green and black wire? don't wanna mess anything up so pretty much unhook everything plug in pump and jump the mobo cable thats connected to PSU.


Hold the 20/24 pin plug from the PSU so that you are looking down into the pins with the clip latch up. On the top (clip-side) row count 4 pins from the left - that's the 'power on' wire - and the pins on either side of it are ground & you can jumper with a paperclip or a wire to either one.




Quote:


> - can't find any info on where to plug in the blue 1 pin cable from the EK d5 pump? is this optional to get variable pump speeds based on MOBO readings? like a PWM fan?


It's the rpm signal wire that can be connected to a fan header or a fan controller just to be able to read the pump rpm and possibly set up to warn you or automatically shut down if the pump isn't spinning. It doesn't let you control the pump in any way.


----------



## Trestles126

Thanks for the info and quick response

I'll probably run the case fans to the phanteks splitter to the MoBo and the 4 corsair sp120s off a seperate 5.25 bay controller

Here is my air gauge the tape doesn't hold well (slow leak from tape)so I fill the system then shut off my on off valve. Come back later and then open and see if my system loop pressure is the same


----------



## WeirdHarold

Decided on a place to mount my SSD


----------



## detunedstring

So, this happened. Cooling my sig rig (i7 4790k and crossfire 290X's)

Going to improve upon it a little bit at a time. Definitely going to upgrade the rads at some point. The PC Master Race radiators are giving decent temps, for proof of concept they came in pretty handy. They were also surprisingly clean out of the box.

All together, it's a 360,240,and 120 from PC Master Race and a HW Black Ice GTX 240. Picked up 5 Swiftech Helix PWM fans, which are nice and quiet for the price. The rest are Cougar Vortex PWM.



















Res JUUUUST nudges the side-panel when installed. Put some electric tape on it to keep it from vibrating loudly.



Had an absolute blast putting everything together. Thanks guys, for the inspiration and wisdom on found on this forum


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@detunedstring

PC Master Race radiators? Where can those be found?


----------



## detunedstring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @detunedstring
> 
> PC Master Race radiators? Where can those be found?


lol. sorry, was worded wrong. "Glorious PC Gaming Race"


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thanks for the info and quick response
> 
> I'll probably run the case fans to the phanteks splitter to the MoBo and the 4 corsair sp120s off a seperate 5.25 bay controller
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my air gauge the tape doesn't hold well (slow leak from tape)so I fill the system then shut off my on off valve. Come back later and then open and see if my system loop pressure is the same


Sounds like you have decided already what you want to do, but instead you might want to consider running the 4 PWM SP120s off of the mobo's CPU_FAN header using a Swiftech PWM splitter and the 3-pin fans off of a fan controller or from one or more of your mobo's other headers. There aren't many PWM fan controllers worth getting besides the Aquaeros, and they can be quite pricy, but regular voltage control fan controllers don't have to cost that much. That said, if it's just 4 SP120s then you might consider the Aquaero 5 to control all of your fans. It's quite a bit less costly than the newer Aquaero 6 and has one channel that can be PWM and the others are voltage control.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *detunedstring*
> 
> lol. sorry, was worded wrong. "Glorious PC Gaming Race"


OK that's better. Google found me that one. lol

20 FPI slim rads. Priced affordable enough. Not bad.

reviews:
http://www.overclock.net/products/xs-360-slim-copper-radiator-by-glorious-pc-gaming-race
https://imgur.com/a/tLFtW


----------



## Trestles126

After looking around the aquaero 6 is pretty trick and well what's another 220 bucks !

Only thing I'm regretting is not going caselabs.... The video card block is my favorite aspect of the build and with a vertical mobo it really robs the look. Bein that I live 35 mins from caselabs I may look into a Mercury s8


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> After looking around the aquaero 6 is pretty trick and well what's another 220 bucks !
> 
> Only thing I'm regretting is not going caselabs.... The video card block is my favorite aspect of the build and with a vertical mobo it really robs the look. Bein that I live 35 mins from caselabs I may look into a Mercury s8


Hey grab me an SMA8 while you're there


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Got around to work a little more on my Monsta 480 today and did go all the way to make it shine, 240, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit sandpaper wet grinding. Going to go over with 2500 grit until I am happy with it, but it is close. A little teaser.


----------



## VSG

That's pretty much how it is before rads get painted/powdercoated. Looks cool to me


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's pretty much how it is before rads get painted/powdercoated. Looks cool to me


Yes, I thought so, too bad they don't sell them like this, much more pretty than that matte black paint that is on it originally. I will try to get a little "old school" look out of my new build, thinking shining copper and brushed alu look. Do not know yet if I have the patient to do this to my other Monsta and the EK-XTX240 though, it is extremely time consuming.


----------



## VSG

I think the Alphacool rads are powdercoated (please correct me if mistaken), and that's probably why you are having a hard time.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think the Alphacool rads are powdercoated (please correct me if mistaken), and that's probably why you are having a hard time.


I have no idea if they are powercoated or not, but the paint is sticking good to the radiator. Even with 240 grit sandpaper it is not going right off and to make it a little worse again I have painted the radiators myself too (three layers with primer, three with white paint and then one-two layers of clear coat after that). It will be troublesome to make it all copper in each end ...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Got around to work a little more on my Monsta 480 today and did go all the way to make it shine, 240, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit sandpaper wet grinding. Going to go over with 2500 grit until I am happy with it, but it is close. A little teaser.


I use....


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's pretty much how it is before rads get painted/powdercoated. Looks cool to me


Ditto. I like the look a lot. I may do the same thing when I buy another radiator in the next couple of weeks


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use....


Good thinkin', that is a polishing machine? Seems like I can pick up one for 61 USD locally (which it is worth), it will make the polishing much easier at least ... how fine grit sandpaper can you use on it? If I have to guess, I would think that if you have 2000 grit and higher grit paper it is going to cost some to get it on a machine like that.


----------



## emsj86




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thinkin', that is a polishing machine? Seems like I can pick up one for 61 USD locally (which it is worth), it will make the polishing much easier at least ... how fine grit sandpaper can you use on it? If I have to guess, I would think that if you have 2000 grit and higher grit paper it is going to cost some to get it on a machine like that.
Click to expand...

You use a cutting wax,not a paper. The coloured blocks next to it are different grades of wax.

Also....


----------



## TheTou




----------



## PC Upgrade

These are the specs and some photos of my upgraded dual loop project ''Red Twister''

New ek d5 pump, new ek front reservoir and new reservoir for the ek dcp 4 pump. new ek pastel liquid. red and white pastel.
and new white led. also new mobo from asus maximus vi to maximus vii.

Case: Corsair Obsidian 750D
Psu: Corsair AX 860
Mobo: Asus Maximus VII formula
CPU: Intel i7 4770K
Ram: 16gb Corsair dominator [email protected] 2000Mhz
Gpu: Asus Gtx 780 poseidon
SSD: Kington Hyper x 120Gb
Hdd: Seagate 1tb + 2tb + 2tb + 1tb + WD 1tb + 1tb + 2tb

Watercooling parts:
Cpu block: EKWB EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Acetal+Nickel CPU Block
Vga block: Stock Asus Poseidon
Backplate: Stock Asus Poseidon
Ram block: EK-RAM Monarch X4 - Acetal+Nickel CSQ
Pump 1: EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)
Pump 2: EKWB EK-D5 PWM Motor (12V DC PWM Pump Motor)
2 X Rads: EKWB EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240 Watercooling Radiator
1 x Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 120 Watercooling Radiator
Tank 1: EKWB EK-DCP 4.0 X-RES
Tank 2: EKWB EK-BAY RES D5 Reservoir
Tube: Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT
Connectors: EKWB + Alphacool
Fans: 5x Corsair SP 120 performance
Lights: 2x Lamptron FlexLight Pro 30 LED cold white
Cables: Nanoxia red sleeved
Liquid : EKWB EK-Ekoolant Pastel RED (concentrate 250mL) - EKWB EK-Ekoolant Pastel WHITE (concentrate 250mL)

New Photos


----------



## PC Upgrade

http://www.overclock.net/t/1520259/rig-red-twister-upgraded


----------



## electro2u

Whole page full of fantastic pictures and posts.







Great work everyone...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hmmm...which one?




Clear!


----------



## Razorfoot

Havent posted in a long time so I thought I'd upload some of my recent builds I have done. Enjoy









In-win S-Frame


----------



## VSG

Love the rad placement in the S-Frame, great job(s) again


----------



## ForTheHorde

I agree, that S-Frame looks amazing, good job


----------



## Jakewat

@Razorfoot
Ha, I never knew you worked for computer lounge. Great quality of professional builds you guys have, and what a awesome job to have.


----------



## Razorfoot

Cheeky Coolermaster Cosmos II


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razorfoot*
> 
> Havent posted in a long time so I thought I'd upload some of my recent builds I have done for my customers. Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In-win S-Frame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Absolutely stunning! Love the pics. How did you manage to eliminate the reflection on the glass?


----------



## lowfat

That is some fine acrylic work in both systems.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Hmmm...which one?
> Clear!


I would usually say go clear but the frosted CSQ one looks really nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razorfoot*
> 
> Havent posted in a long time so I thought I'd upload some of my recent builds I have done. Enjoy


Love it. I always thought the InWin frames looked weird until I actually saw a couple of builds done in it. I really want one now.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Here's some Aurora 2 mixed with X1 Oil Black concentrate:


Now that would have looked incredible inside your Robocop build, had you used it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

In Win,the best case maker right now,hands down.

And spoiler quoted pics please.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *In Win,the best case maker right now,hands down.
> *
> And spoiler quoted pics please.


Yup, intemporal style! I particulary love the 904 and 901.

Though their news ones looks really like the NZXT H440


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *In Win,the best case maker right now,hands down.
> *
> And spoiler quoted pics please.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, intemporal style! I particulary love the 904 and 901.
> 
> Though their news ones looks really like the NZXT H440
Click to expand...

Im more into the frames side of things myself. The 90X cases are nice but they are no match for the DFM.


----------



## bond32

delete


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razorfoot*
> 
> Havent posted in a long time so I thought I'd upload some of my recent builds I have done. Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In-win S-Frame


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razorfoot*
> 
> Cheeky Coolermaster Cosmos II


WoW, these are both absolutely stunning wish I could give you more than +1 to you rep for sharing these with us


----------



## Jakusonfire

There seems to always be one small detail in each case that puts me off Inwin. That S frame above does look good though. The best I have seen is the D frame where the guy created a custom bottom extension to the frame for a 480 rad. It looked so good they really should do a factory version.


----------



## ccRicers

@Razorfoot, funny coincidence that you came back because just yesterday I came across your ICE-BOX build while looking for FT03 build logs.

But crappy Imageshack had to remove your images after a while so I couldn't take a look at how it went. Is there some other place where you hosted those pictures?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There seems to always be one small detail in each case that puts me off Inwin. That S frame above does look good though. *The best I have seen is the D frame where the guy created a custom bottom extension to the frame for a 480 rad*. It looked so good they really should do a factory version.


The beauty of that build was the stock looking nature of the ped,it looked like it rolled off In Win's own production line.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The beauty of that build was the stock looking nature of the ped,it looked like it rolled off In Win's own production line.


I gotta see this; anyone have a link?


----------



## Jakusonfire

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457334/build-log-the-rog-t-frame-d-frame-expansion-liquid-system-completed

The look of this nearly inspired me to creat my own because I used to be a welder. I don't think I am really down with fully open builds though. Maybe one day.

I'm not 100% this is the one I was thinking of because I thought it had a fully welded extension that just continued the same style from the main chasis. Can you remember Neg?

Edit: Oh no, that is it. It just uses the style of the motherboard tray on the lower. Truly amazing work.


----------



## Trestles126

Went ahead and bit the bullet on the aquaero 6 xt the black bezel and bought the rest of my led plugs and fill fittings thanks for the advice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thanks for the info and quick response
> 
> I'll probably run the case fans to the phanteks splitter to the MoBo and the 4 corsair sp120s off a seperate 5.25 bay controller
> 
> Here is my air gauge the tape doesn't hold well (slow leak from tape)so I fill the system then shut off my on off valve. Come back later and then open and see if my system loop pressure is the same


Ordered the last few things


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Went ahead and bit the bullet on the aquaero 6 xt the black bezel and bought the rest of my led plugs and fill fittings thanks for the advice
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thanks for the info and quick response
> 
> I'll probably run the case fans to the phanteks splitter to the MoBo and the 4 corsair sp120s off a seperate 5.25 bay controller
> 
> Here is my air gauge the tape doesn't hold well (slow leak from tape)so I fill the system then shut off my on off valve. Come back later and then open and see if my system loop pressure is the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered the last few things
Click to expand...

Did you apply the tape in reverse thread so that it won't pull away when you thread fittings on the helical axis?









If you applied properly, I would do it over and go one full wrap further than before. There shouldn't be any leakage at all. So either the tape wasn't completely applied or you didn't tighten the fittings down enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Ya I did I checked the loop again today with the on off closed opened it and the air pressure was the same 24 hours later should be good to go! But now I'm really leaning towards a caselabs case so may be selling luxe and redoing all the tubing


----------



## Nichismo

can anyone tell me the exact spacing of bolt holes for Bitspower Reservoir clamps?

I know they are right around 60mm inbetween but I need an exact number.

thanks


----------



## VSG

Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw

Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw
> 
> Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


Filled it out. Thanks for posting!


----------



## DizZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw
> 
> Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


Thanks!


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw
> 
> Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


lol, probably best to choose their most high end complete watercooling kit available.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw
> 
> Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


Hope they'll take pity on me and send me a block. I don't need nuthin special just a Thermosphere Copper/Plexi Universal GPU Water Block to get me off that Radeon hamster wheel.









Good lookin out!









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Just luck involved here


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just luck involved here


LOL Still pity is nice. Can't believe how much money I have spent on WC'ing gear since I been home.









Found a couple more fittings and added them to my fittings sale to help offset the costs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In Win,the best case maker right now,hands down.
> 
> And spoiler quoted pics please.


I'd say they are tied with Jonsbo in design. You should see some of the stuff Jonsbo is pushing out like the UMX1/2 Plus and their U series.


----------



## electro2u

Seems Jonesbo is selling their chassis under Rosewill's branding in the US. First from Asia! They aren't big enough for most enthusiast designs as far as I can tell so far. But when Rosewill (Newegg house brand) started using their designs I noticed. I regularly crawl through NE case catalogue online looking for outliers. It's a matter of time til they nail a big hit I imagine. People have an aversion to Rosewill though... The truth is most of their stuff is quality rebranding at competitive pricing.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razorfoot*
> 
> Havent posted in a long time so I thought I'd upload some of my recent builds I have done. Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In-win S-Frame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I jealous of the job you have build computers for a living how long have you worked @ CL?

http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/systems/systemdetail.asp?sysid=215&systypeid=10


----------



## natsu2014

Only 360 for SLI and CPU?
Also how did they fill the loop? The pumps are above res and quite far from them


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Just luck involved here


Totally rules me out as a potential winner . . . .

D.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have a new background coming tomorrow,a nice dark grey vinyl,should allow me to make dark shots without having to make severe adjustments to kill the background out.





I also did a bit of pre-dinner modding....


----------



## phynce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw
> 
> Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone


at the end of the survey
Thank you for your responses. All of them are taken very seriously and are read by the entire management team at EKWB. By helping us we can help provide a better service for you in the future. If you are selected to win one of the T-Shirts you will be contacted by the email you specified.

looks like the prize is a T-shirt or am I wrong?


----------



## derickwm

Sneak preview of a build to come...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sneak preview of a build to come...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, but why not finish "Aldri Fornøyd" first?


----------



## derickwm

It'll still be finished first, just getting it ready


----------



## fakeblood

I would normally solve this myself, but don't have any soft tubing to easily test this out.

Can I have the res on top keep the pump filled, while using the pump top for in and out? So the return run will be direct to the pump rather than to the res?


----------



## IT Diva

Sure, people do it all the time . . . .

That said, with such a large res, the coolant won't "turn over" very well, and if you use a coolant like pastel . . . . you'll likely have issues with the nano particles falling out of suspension.

Darlene


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sure, people do it all the time . . . .
> 
> That said, with such a large res, the coolant won't "turn over" very well, and if you use a coolant like pastel . . . . you'll likely have issues with the nano particles falling out of suspension.
> 
> Darlene


Hmm I am planning on using pastel, but also planning on using a smaller res either an EK x3 110 or BP ztank 80


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sure, people do it all the time . . . .
> 
> That said, with such a large res, the coolant won't "turn over" very well, and if you use a coolant like pastel . . . . you'll likely have issues with the nano particles falling out of suspension.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm I am planning on using pastel, but also planning on using a smaller res either an EK x3 110 or BP ztank 80
Click to expand...

With the Bitspower tube, you could use a double or triple ported end cap and set it a bit higher than the pump on an extension, then the return could come in at the bottom of the tube, and you'd have plenty of turn over . . .

You could also check with mick on the Mayhems thread, it's possible I could be wrong, but not particularly probable.

You'll also have a better go of it if it's a 24/7 machine, but if not, and you can't change the return to get better agitation, I'd think more about X1.

D.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With the Bitspower tube, you could use a double or triple ported end cap and set it a bit higher than the pump on an extension, then the return could come in at the bottom of the tube, and you'd have plenty of turn over . . .
> 
> You could also check with mick on the Mayhems thread, it's possible I could be wrong, but not particularly probable.
> 
> D.


Cheers Darlene, I'll ask Mick and see what he thinks


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I would normally solve this myself, but don't have any soft tubing to easily test this out.
> 
> Can I have the res on top keep the pump filled, while using the pump top for in and out? So the return run will be direct to the pump rather than to the res?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sure, people do it all the time . . . .
> 
> That said, with such a large res, the coolant won't "turn over" very well, and if you use a coolant like pastel . . . . you'll likely have issues with the nano particles falling out of suspension.
> 
> Darlene


i dont see how this will work. the res is connected to the pump with only a single fitting. you would need 2 fittings, 1 for res inlet and another for res outlet.

*that picture wont work.*
**well, uh, maybe if he wants stagnant water in the res. i reread that. yeah, reread...**


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phynce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another prize to win via EK survey: http://goo.gl/RUibHw
> 
> Saw it on their FB page, and the prize is pretty amazing to be honest- any 1 item that EK makes of your choosing. Good luck to everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the end of the survey
> Thank you for your responses. All of them are taken very seriously and are read by the entire management team at EKWB. By helping us we can help provide a better service for you in the future. If you are selected to win one of the T-Shirts you will be contacted by the email you specified.
> 
> looks like the prize is a T-shirt or am I wrong?
Click to expand...

Oops that's my mistake. Fixed now. You do win any EK product you specify.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It'll still be finished first, just getting it ready


I am really looking forward to the end-result of that build, one of many good projects at OCN.









Any connections to Norway? (thinking about the naming of the build







)


----------



## VSG

I can't believe this is finally done (for now anyway): http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup/0_50

Feedback always appreciated


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I can't believe this is finally done (for now anyway): http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup/0_50
> 
> Feedback always appreciated


Haven't gone past the radiator pictures and descriptions yet, but your attention to detail is awesome.


----------



## VSG

Yeah I know the number of pictures is a lot. It's pretty much an overview of all the rads tested in one thread so it's huge.


----------



## emsj86

got my extensions today they forgot the white but still looks nice I think enthoo pro case


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I can't believe this is finally done (for now anyway): http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup/0_50
> 
> Feedback always appreciated


Sooo glad you did this. ^_^


----------



## aaroc

Someone has problems with Koolance QDC4 black? Mine are having some oxidation or chemical process. They tainted light blue the Primochill hose. I think they are reacting with the Moonson compression fitings. Is this dangerous to the rest of my loop? I really love the QDC, they help a lot to change things. Do you recommend other type, model brand? thanks!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> got my extensions today they forgot the white but still looks nice I think enthoo pro case


i like that color.. i adore it actually.. is that blue pastel form mayhems?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Someone has problems with Koolance QDC4 black? Mine are having some oxidation or chemical process. They tainted light blue the Primochill hose. I think they are reacting with the Moonson compression fitings. Is this dangerous to the rest of my loop? I really love the QDC, they help a lot to change things. Do you recommend other type, model brand? thanks!


The qdc is making your tubing blue? Can you post some pictures having trouble picturing that. What coolant? Are you using a separate biocide? Perhaps copper sulfate? What makes you think it is the Koolance qdc?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Someone has problems with Koolance QDC4 black? Mine are having some oxidation or chemical process. They tainted light blue the Primochill hose. I think they are reacting with the Moonson compression fitings. Is this dangerous to the rest of my loop? I really love the QDC, they help a lot to change things. Do you recommend other type, model brand? thanks!


Can you take some pictures? Are you sure is the QDC? If I recall correctly the Monson fittings now have silver in it and on a first guess that would be my shot....What coolant are you using?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The new backdrop arrived today so I took a few quick shots.i think its worked wonders!

























Opinions welcome.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Oh yeah...A lot better as the background goes.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i like that color.. i adore it actually.. is that blue pastel form mayhems?


yes it is. http://www.overclock.net/t/1519439/blue-blurry-build-log-by-itzems-phanteks-enthoo-pro-case#post_23042749 build log


----------



## GaMbi2004

Just made this short video of my rig and thought I would share it with all of ya'













Those of you who have RGB lights, may know that the color change in the red is NOT a camera fault.. at actually looks like that in real life too








Trippy ain't it?


----------



## Jakewat

@B NEGATIVE
Loving the green accents on the fittins and pump. The backdrop definitely makes for some nice photos.


----------



## psycho84

@B NEGATIVE

Much better now ! I like the Colordetails


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The new backdrop arrived today so I took a few quick shots.i think its worked wonders!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions welcome.


Black and Yellow, Black and Yellow, Black and Yellow! Or is that Green? My eyes are tripping out














I love the black.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Someone has problems with Koolance QDC4 black? Mine are having some oxidation or chemical process. They tainted light blue the Primochill hose. I think they are reacting with the Moonson compression fitings. Is this dangerous to the rest of my loop? I really love the QDC, they help a lot to change things. Do you recommend other type, model brand? thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Can you take some pictures? Are you sure is the QDC? If I recall correctly the Monson fittings now have silver in it and on a first guess that would be my shot....What coolant are you using?


Read through *this*. It's not the Monsoon fittings nor the silver.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Just made this short video of my rig and thought I would share it with all of ya'


Love the music, love the backplate


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I need a helping hand/advice. I have ordered a bitspower drain valve. Along with 6 feet of ek clear acrylic 12mm tubing. I need to know how to configure a drain valve that swings up and done using fittings that coincide with an acrylic Ek pump top that will go on top of a Swiftech Mc35x (well this) The Drain Valve is This

Any Ideas? I always see like a little block coming out of the pump with various fittings around it that move and spin... Im just at a loss. Did my entire loop with soft tubing with a 90degree here and there.. Thanks

THe Cautious One

EDIT: Do you have to buy the O rings seperate? Or does one come with each fitting you buy?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I need a helping hand/advice. I have ordered a bitspower drain valve. Along with 6 feet of ek clear acrylic 12mm tubing. I need to know how to configure a drain valve that swings up and done using fittings that coincide with an acrylic Ek pump top that will go on top of a Swiftech Mc35x (well this) The Drain Valve is This
> 
> Any Ideas? I always see like a little block coming out of the pump with various fittings around it that move and spin... Im just at a loss. Did my entire loop with soft tubing with a 90degree here and there.. Thanks
> 
> THe Cautious One
> 
> EDIT: Do you have to buy the O rings seperate? Or does one come with each fitting you buy?


Bitspower Q-Rotary and L-rotarys can accomplish the up down function you want. I use a Koolance low profile rotary to keep my drain hidden under my radiator and then it swings out for use.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The new backdrop arrived today so I took a few quick shots.i think its worked wonders!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions welcome.


Absolutely delicious. How much work is it to add vinyl into the lettering on the fittings out of curiosity?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question, how often do you guys change tubes? I've had my loop running for the better part of a year and am about to rip it apart, should I replace all the tubes to?

Thanks


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Just made this short video of my rig and thought I would share it with all of ya'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who have RGB lights, may know that the color change in the red is NOT a camera fault.. at actually looks like that in real life too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trippy ain't it?


That Music









Although i find any Itx rig should have the mandatory acrylic GPU block + Pastel









good job on the tubing though


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Bitspower Q-Rotary and L-rotarys can accomplish the up down function you want. I use a Koolance low profile rotary to keep my drain hidden under my radiator and then it swings out for use.


This is the Best thing I have seen all day. Thank You. + Rep


----------



## VSG

Latest PPC discounts:
Quote:


> May your jack-o-lantern burn bright all through the night! Happy Halloween&#8230;hope it's the best one yet! No tricks here but, please check out all the new items in stock.
> 
> Also we are pleased to offer these Halloween treats for you:
> 
> Spend $50-500 or more and get 7% off: "HWEEN14-7"
> Spend over $500 or more and get 9% off: "HWEEN14-9"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from October 24th through October 31st 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## emsj86

This guy geggeg does it all your the man


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Read through *this*. It's not the Monsoon fittings nor the silver.


Thanks a lot for the link. That is exactly what happened to my Koolance dog poop QD4 black. Only the hose that is in contact with the QD4 is blue and I had to remove QD4 left overs on the CPU Waterblock. One of the Moonson silver barbs of the compression fitting has its silver coating painted blueish and is the nearest fitting to any QD4.. When I dismantle the loop again I will take more pictures. the hose that is in contact only with monsoon compression fittings is crystal clear.

If I remove the leftovers of the QD4 desintegration its save to keep using them? I was planning to watercool my GPUs this weekend.


----------



## electro2u

Sweet! Need to make an order. Geggeg always with the super info!


----------



## VSG

In return can I request you guys read my custom title and ignore that stupid username I chose when registering?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quick question.

Does adding two koolance MOSFET blocks add that much extra heat?

Thinking of running 2x MOSFET blocks & CPU (4690k) OC as high as I can with 2x 240mm ST30. Was hoping to have maybe some slow fans like NB-BlackSilentPRO PL-2 on the rads.

What are your thoughts.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> In return can I request you guys read my custom title and ignore that stupid username I chose when registering?


This Guy


----------



## stickg1

VSG FTW!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> In return can I request you guys read my custom title and ignore that stupid username I chose when registering?


Oh wow. I didn't know you meant that literally. I thought maybe it was an inside joke. Could you make another account and have them merged?


----------



## VSG

Not that I know of. No worries though, and thanks!


----------



## Aesonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question, how often do you guys change tubes? I've had my loop running for the better part of a year and am about to rip it apart, should I replace all the tubes to?
> 
> Thanks


I've never really heard of any issues with not replacing tubing. Some tubing could fade or lose UV reactivity but I don't really know if it impacts performance/safety or not (I don't have the experience to tell you that)

Tubing _is_ relatively cheap though, so it definitely wouldn't hurt doing so. Neither your pocketbook or your loop.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesonus*
> 
> I've never really heard of any issues with not replacing tubing. Some tubing could fade or lose UV reactivity but I don't really know if it impacts performance/safety or not (I don't have the experience to tell you that)
> 
> Tubing _is_ relatively cheap though, so it definitely wouldn't hurt doing so. Neither your pocketbook or your loop.


Ah ok thanks, I have got plenty left so I'll just see if this current lot has the dreaded plasticizer, if not I'll just leave it

Dont need to worry about colour or anything, its full black with only distilled water in it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Someone has problems with Koolance QDC4 black? Mine are having some oxidation or chemical process. They tainted light blue the Primochill hose. I think they are reacting with the Moonson compression fitings. Is this dangerous to the rest of my loop? I really love the QDC, they help a lot to change things. Do you recommend other type, model brand? thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Can you take some pictures? Are you sure is the QDC? If I recall correctly the Monson fittings now have silver in it and on a first guess that would be my shot....What coolant are you using?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Read through *this*. It's not the Monsoon fittings nor the silver.
Click to expand...

Yeah um no. Seriously doubtful the Monsoons are the cause of the issue. I let mine sit after draining and they looked just as good as the day I installed them nearly 2 an a half years ago. In fact the only casualty in my loop was a decidedly badly plated male/male rotary connection that I will NEVER use again. I should've pulled and dried everything after I drained my loop but my distilled water sat in the loop. No bueno for the rotary at the very bottom of the loop but everything else came away intact and unscathed. I shoulda known better so I won't BM any compay over it. Just a lesson to remember in the future.









I did have to Ketchup the CPU block as well cause the air caused it to blacken from the moisture still in the loop. Put Heinz in it and it's almost good as new after rinsing it with distilled and letting it air dry out of the loop.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I need a helping hand/advice. I have ordered a bitspower drain valve. Along with 6 feet of ek clear acrylic 12mm tubing. I need to know how to configure a drain valve that swings up and done using fittings that coincide with an acrylic Ek pump top that will go on top of a Swiftech Mc35x (well this) The Drain Valve is This
> 
> Any Ideas? I always see like a little block coming out of the pump with various fittings around it that move and spin... Im just at a loss. Did my entire loop with soft tubing with a 90degree here and there.. Thanks
> 
> THe Cautious One
> 
> EDIT: Do you have to buy the O rings seperate? Or does one come with each fitting you buy?
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower Q-Rotary and L-rotarys can accomplish the up down function you want. I use a Koolance low profile rotary to keep my drain hidden under my radiator and then it swings out for use.
Click to expand...

That's pretty sweet. Although I'd be tempted to connect it straight out that opening in the back of the case. That is the back, correct? Ignore that thought if it's not.







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Latest PPC discounts:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> May your jack-o-lantern burn bright all through the night! Happy Halloween&#8230;hope it's the best one yet! No tricks here but, please check out all the new items in stock.
> 
> Also we are pleased to offer these Halloween treats for you:
> 
> Spend $50-500 or more and get 7% off: "HWEEN14-7"
> Spend over $500 or more and get 9% off: "HWEEN14-9"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from October 24th through October 31st 2014. One coupon per order please.)
Click to expand...

Sweet. Hope they get that Phobya 200 back in stock an pronto! I have enough for that and a set of Hardlines.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> In return can I request you guys read my custom title and ignore that stupid username I chose when registering?


VSG eh? Okay... I dunno though, geggeg is kinda cool imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakewat

EK-EKoolant Clear premix or Mayhems X1 concentrate?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> EK-EKoolant Clear premix or Mayhems X1 concentrate?


EK stuff is pretty Yellow, but worked really good for me.

Using X-1 still has a slight yellow tint, but not nearly as much as EK stuff. It's as clear as it's gonna get without using anti corrosives.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> EK stuff is pretty Yellow, but worked really good for me.
> 
> Using X-1 still has a slight yellow tint, but not nearly as much as EK stuff. It's as clear as it's gonna get without using anti corrosives.


I thought the X-1 was meant to already contain anti corrosives just like all their other coolants? Also, is the yellow tint you are getting only visible up close/ in certain light rather than noticeable at a glance?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Yeah um no. Seriously doubtful the Monsoons are the cause of the issue. I let mine sit after draining and they looked just as good as the day I installed them nearly 2 an a half years ago.* In fact the only casualty in my loop was a decidedly badly plated male/male rotary connection that I will NEVER use again. I should've pulled and dried everything after I drained my loop but my distilled water sat in the loop. No bueno for the rotary at the very bottom of the loop but everything else came away intact and unscathed. I shoulda known better so I won't BM any compay over it. Just a lesson to remember in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have to Ketchup the CPU block as well cause the air caused it to blacken from the moisture still in the loop. Put Heinz in it and it's almost good as new after rinsing it with distilled and letting it air dry out of the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's pretty sweet. Although I'd be tempted to connect it straight out that opening in the back of the case. That is the back, correct? Ignore that thought if it's not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Sweet. Hope they get that Phobya 200 back in stock an pronto! I have enough for that and a set of Hardlines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VSG eh? Okay... I dunno though, geggeg is kinda cool imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ok but 2,5 years ago Monsoon fittings didn't have silver on it did they? Besides, galvanic corrosion (if it was that) would affect the QDC not the Monsoon with silver which would be the cathode. I am not saying it was this that happen only raising the possibility to be further investigated by the one who asked about it (aaroc). From the other link Daaq posted it might as well be a QC problem with those black QDC.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So I was pulling apart my loop and checking all my tubes for plasticizer (most had a little bit) and then I looked into my CPU block and seen this...




Gonna go out on a limb and say, thats galvanic corrosion isnt it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Plasticizer and dye.


----------



## Majentrix

Should I stick with white tubing or go with clear and a pastel white dye?
Also has anyone else had problems with Primochill LRT tubing? The wall seems too thick and I can't get the compression caps on. Could just be my fittings though.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> Also has anyone else had problems with Primochill LRT tubing? The wall seems too thick and I can't get the compression caps on. Could just be my fittings though.


From what I've read, that tubing is often a little too big.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Plasticizer and dye.


I dont use dye just straight distilled with Liquid Utopia...

What should I use to clean it? see if it is just crap from plasticizer or not


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Plasticizer and dye.
> 
> 
> 
> I dont use dye just straight distilled with *Liquid Utopia*...
> 
> What should I use to clean it? see if it is just crap from plasticizer or not
Click to expand...

Yoinks.....

Qtip and light solvent (water or similar) should get it off,cellulose thinners for the metal parts and acid wash for the plastics will definitely shift it if its encrusted.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yoinks.....
> 
> Qtip and light solvent (water or similar) should get it off,cellulose thinners for the metal parts and acid wash for the plastics will definitely shift it if its encrusted


Guessing you have no love for Liquid Utopia? lol its all I could get at the time but I might end up ordering some Mayhems Biocide instead

Cellulose thinner, like paint thinner and or turpentine? or are they to harsh?

Also how would I clean the 'fins' inside the block, a soft tooth brush or something?

Edit, is there any 7/16" plasticizer free black tube? just out of curiosity


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yoinks.....
> 
> Qtip and light solvent (water or similar) should get it off,cellulose thinners for the metal parts and acid wash for the plastics will definitely shift it if its encrusted
> 
> 
> 
> Guessing you have no love for Liquid Utopia Primochill in general? lol its all I could get at the time but I might end up ordering some Mayhems Biocide instead
> 
> Cellulose thinner, like paint thinner and or turpentine? or are they to harsh?
> 
> Also how would I clean the 'fins' inside the block, a soft tooth brush or something?
Click to expand...

Fixed that


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So I was pulling apart my loop and checking all my tubes for plasticizer (most had a little bit) and then I looked into my CPU block and seen this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna go out on a limb and say, thats galvanic corrosion isnt it?


Have you used coloured tubing? I never understand how things get that bad. I use Liquid Utopia and every time I have opened my blocks they look practically brand new.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fixed that


no Primochill love at all









So paint thinner / turpentine for cleaning or is it to harsh?

Gonna try water first
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Have you used coloured tubing? I never understand how things get that bad. I use Liquid Utopia and every time I have opened my blocks they look practically brand new.


Yeah I use black PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT (stuff with plasticizer apparently)

Like I said tho my loop hasnt been pulled apart in nearly a year


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hot water with soap and a good scrubbing should be the first thing you try. Most of that should come off. I just don't understand where the red staining has come from. I have used that black tubing before and the plasticiser from it was clear or slightly blackened.

For truly plasticiser free tubing there is Norprene or the EK version of it. The EK only comes in 3/8 x 5/8 but I think I have seen the Norprene in 7/16


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> no Primochill love at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So paint thinner / turpentine for cleaning or is it to harsh?
> 
> Gonna try water first
> Yeah I use black PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT (stuff with plasticizer apparently)
> 
> Like I said tho my loop hasnt been pulled apart in nearly a year


I used Primochill UV Blue LRT and ran my loop for over 2 years without even a drain and fill and my block didn't look like that ????
If looked almost new, just a slight change in color, so I'm thinking that it was something other than the tubing.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hot water with soap and a good scrubbing should be the first thing you try. Most of that should come off. I just don't understand where the red staining has come from. I have used that black tubing before and the plasticiser from it was clear or slightly blackened.


Yeah I'll try that tomorrow, then if I have to something harsher

The red and blue is what made me think is was corrosion or algae, its not smooth its slightly rough
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I used Primochill UV Blue LRT and ran my loop for over 2 years without even a drain and fill and my block didn't look like that ????
> If looked almost new, just a slight change in color, so I'm thinking that it was something other than the tubing.


Yeah... its a bit weird, when I built this loop I made 100% sure nothing could cause corrosion thats why I was shocked when I seen the block and had to ask

The only thing I can really think of is the Liquid Utopia, tubing, metals & distilled water didnt play nice together

The water that came out of my loop was clean like the day it went in and the plasticizer wasnt that bad either, maybe a total of 20cm out of the 1.5m that was actually in there


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fixed that
> 
> 
> 
> no Primochill love at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So paint thinner / turpentine for cleaning or is it to harsh?
> 
> Gonna try water first
Click to expand...

Its the very last resort.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> *Hot water with soap and a good scrubbing should be the first thing you try.* Most of that should come off. I just don't understand where the red staining has come from. I have used that black tubing before and the plasticiser from it was clear or slightly blackened.
> 
> For truly plasticiser free tubing there is *Norprene* or the EK version of it. The EK only comes in 3/8 x 5/8 but I think I have seen the Norprene in 7/16


And this.

Harsh chem is really the end of the scale.

The red colouring could be bacterial growth within the plasticizer deposit.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> For truly plasticiser free tubing there is Norprene or the EK version of it. The EK only comes in 3/8 x 5/8 but I think I have seen the Norprene in 7/16


Thanks I'll have a look
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the very last resort.....
> And this.
> 
> Harsh chem is really the end of the scale.
> 
> The red colouring could be bacterial growth within the plasticizer deposit.


Ok I'll try the hot soapy water and see how it goes

The colours are whats throwing me, I get the blueish white but the red is weird, everything else but my CPU block is clean







frustrating much


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> Should I stick with white tubing or go with clear and a pastel white dye?
> Also has anyone else had problems with Primochill LRT tubing? The wall seems too thick and I can't get the compression caps on. Could just be my fittings though.


I had the same problem with my Alphacool fittings and the Primochill advanced.


----------



## ds84

Finally, no more leaks !!! Now hope that my components are still working...


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Finally, no more leaks !!! Now hope that my components are still working...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does air go through the front rad?

You need another top rad.. your water temp suggests that you will be at like 40C a GPU and around 37 CPU? am i right? adding a top 360/240 45mm Rad will remove a nice chunk of the heat.

Also try sandwiching that Monsta

+1 for the drain system


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I'll try that tomorrow, then if I have to something harsher
> 
> The red and blue is what made me think is was corrosion or algae, its not smooth its slightly rough
> Yeah... its a bit weird, when I built this loop I made 100% sure nothing could cause corrosion thats why I was shocked when I seen the block and had to ask
> 
> The only thing I can really think of is the Liquid Utopia, tubing, metals & distilled water didnt play nice together
> 
> The water that came out of my loop was clean like the day it went in and the plasticizer wasnt that bad either, maybe a total of 20cm out of the 1.5m that was actually in there


I heard ketchup is the best for cleaning copper blocks something to do with the slight acidity I have never tried it but then again I have always used a strong corrosion inhibitor so I have never had to clean a block,


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I heard ketchup is the best for cleaning copper blocks something to do with the slight acidity I have never tried it but then again I have always used a strong corrosion inhibitor so I have never had to clean a block,


Thats... different lol, I'm gonna try soap first then if that doesnt do anything maybe vinegar & bicarb or something


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Does air go through the front rad?
> 
> You need another top rad.. your water temp suggests that you will be at like 40C a GPU and around 37 CPU? am i right? adding a top 360/240 45mm Rad will remove a nice chunk of the heat.
> 
> *Also try sandwiching that Monsta*
> 
> +1 for the drain system


For sure that Monsta should be up against the inside of the case with the fans on the outside front, then you could straiten out that res.

Would sure like to get lucky on that EK survey







I put down an EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Nickel so I can sli K|NGP|NS, prolly shoulda chose a supremacy evo though its less expensive and more likely im sure. Although either one would be
awesome to win......wishful thinkin. Good Luck everyone!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Does air go through the front rad?
> 
> You need another top rad.. your water temp suggests that you will be at like 40C a GPU and around 37 CPU? am i right? adding a top 360/240 45mm Rad will remove a nice chunk of the heat.
> 
> Also try sandwiching that Monsta
> 
> +1 for the drain system


Blah







i didn't see that top rad cause you have the fans mounted above it.







.. sorry just woke up
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> For sure that Monsta should be up against the inside of the case with the fans on the outside front, then you could straiten out that res.


I agree with that.


----------



## ds84

I did an experiment with mounting the fans inside and outside of the 750D.

If mounted outside, when the filter is installed, it loses some air. if front panel is installed, it does not even push air thru. I put my hands at the output end of the fan and i cant feel any air moving. Tried with GT AP-15 and i gt similar results.

Which led me to mounting the fans inside. It creates more distance between the filter/front panel and the fan which allows it to draw in more air due to wider space... So, no choice but to do so.

Unless corsair is coming up with a new design for the 750D front panel, which i doubt so..


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Ok so you guys were right, it seems to be algae in the plasticizer, started going at it with soap and hot water and it seems to get rid of it but its still gonna take at least another day or so to clean it fully







suppose I'll have to flush the rads and pump with hot water to?

Thinking I may get a killcoil for my loop just to be sure this time (not to happy about it), would it be overkill to use a killcoil and Mayhems Biocide together?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ok so you guys were right, it seems to be algae in the plasticizer, started going at it with soap and hot water and it seems to get rid of it but its still gonna take at least another day or so to clean it fully
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> suppose I'll have to flush the rads and pump with hot water to?
> 
> Thinking I may get a killcoil for my loop just to be sure this time (not to happy about it), would it be overkill to use a killcoil and Mayhems Biocide together?


Were you running the loop with just water and no kill coil or pt-nuke, because that would be a bad idea. I run my loop just plain distilled water with a kill coil and like I said earlier, last loop ran for almost 2 years never drained a drop and my block looks like new.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> I did an experiment with mounting the fans inside and outside of the 750D.
> 
> If mounted outside, when the filter is installed, it loses some air. if front panel is installed, it does not even push air thru. I put my hands at the output end of the fan and i cant feel any air moving. Tried with GT AP-15 and i gt similar results.
> 
> Which led me to mounting the fans inside. It creates more distance between the filter/front panel and the fan which allows it to draw in more air due to wider space... So, no choice but to do so.
> 
> Unless corsair is coming up with a new design for the 750D front panel, which i doubt so..


You are correct about the airflo problem. Im afraid its a design flaw with the 750d and was the reason why I just sold mine and got a caselabs instead. When I had mine I had 3 x 3000 rpm pwm get's mounted on the front intake to try and overcome the problem.

Actually enough people complained to george @ corsair and they are releasing a new mesh front panel for the 750d, similar to the one on the 450d I believe. Keep checking their website it should be available some time soon.

I am using the IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal PC Coolant Additive. You might wanna try it out, I have heard good things about it but honestly I havent had my loop running for more than a few months so I cant say for
sure but no problems yet. Just realized you may not be planning on going with distilled water this time but if you are go for it.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> You are correct about the airflo problem. Im afraid its a design flaw with the 750d and was the reason why I just sold mine and got a caselabs instead. When I had mine I had 3 x 3000 rpm pwm get's mounted on the front intake to try and overcome the problem.
> 
> Actually enough people complained to george @ corsair and they are releasing a new mesh front panel for the 750d, similar to the one on the 450d I believe. Keep checking their website it should be available some time soon.


Ouh, so that wasnt a rumour?? Hope it comes soon.


----------



## electro2u

So a year with Distilled+Liquid Utopia and UV Blue tubing and you had algae growing, but only in the CPU block. Scary. I haven't been doing this very long... I keep changing things around so I haven't ever left my loop running on the same coolant for more than a month or so. But eventually I'd like to set it and forget it for a while.

Have bunch of Mayhems X-1 UV Blue ready for whenever I think I'm at that point. Hope it's enough by itself.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Were you running the loop with just water and no kill coil or pt-nuke, because that would be a bad idea. I run my loop just plain distilled water with a kill coil and like I said earlier, last loop ran for almost 2 years never drained a drop and my block looks like new.


I was running distilled and Liquid Utopia (little over half a 15ml bottle with 1.2l - 1.5L water) and yet it still grew







unless it did have something to do with the plasticizer 









I think I'll get a killcoil this week seeing everyone else is having no problems and maybe Mayhems Biocide to just in case, probably sell or throw out my Liquid Utopia seeing its hopeless


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I was running distilled and Liquid Utopia (little over half a 15ml bottle with 1.2l - 1.5L water) and yet it still grew
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> unless it did have something to do with the plasticizer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'll get a killcoil this week seeing everyone else is having no problems and maybe Mayhems Biocide to just in case, probably sell or throw out my Liquid Utopia seeing its hopeless


When I was setting up my first loop ever, everyone I talked to in several forums all said you have to get a kill coil, and then I ended up ordering a kit my first go around and it was a freebie with the kit so I didn't even need to order it - but I was going to. Figured with that many recommendations it had to be worth it!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> When I was setting up my first loop ever, everyone I talked to in several forums all said you have to get a kill coil, and then I ended up ordering a kit my first go around and it was a freebie with the kit so I didn't even need to order it - but I was going to. Figured with that many recommendations it had to be worth it!


Yeah I've seen heaps of people with them but I've never been sure, with my setup it could cause problems, I have a pump res combo and I've been worried it could slip into the pump







but with this algae build up I'm probably gonna try it and see what happens lol


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thats... different lol, I'm gonna try soap first then if that doesnt do anything maybe vinegar & bicarb or something


Polish + a soft brissel toothbrush + gentle soap is my go to cleaning tools for most things water cooling. Polish would clean those blocks up nicer than they were at stock.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Polish + a soft brissel toothbrush + gentle soap is my go to cleaning tools for most things water cooling. Polish would clean those blocks up nicer than they were at stock.


You do love dat polish lol


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Polish + a soft brissel toothbrush + gentle soap is my go to cleaning tools for most things water cooling. Polish would clean those blocks up nicer than they were at stock.


Thanks, been at it for a few hours with a toothbrush and soap, its gotten heaps off but still heaps left

I was actually thinking of polishing the block, it was looking a little dull


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> You do love dat polish lol


I have to buy more Autosol and PlastX then pretty much any other cleaning supply.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks, been at it for a few hours with a toothbrush and soap, its gotten heaps off but still heaps left
> 
> I was actually thinking of polishing the block, it was looking a little dull


I have had some very severely stained nickel when I would use undiluted Ice Dragon Cooling nanofluid. Nothing worked at cleaning it besides polishing it off. Just make sure you go over the block w/ toothbrush + soap after you use the polish.

Most brands of metal polish will work but Autosol is the best.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ok so you guys were right, it seems to be algae in the plasticizer, started going at it with soap and hot water and it seems to get rid of it but its still gonna take at least another day or so to clean it fully
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> suppose I'll have to flush the rads and pump with hot water to?
> 
> Thinking I may get a killcoil for my loop just to be sure this time (not to happy about it), would it be overkill to use a killcoil and Mayhems Biocide together?


I wouldn't think you would need a kill coil with silver in the Monsoon fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Yay,new Aquaero!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yay,new Aquaero!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that new for you or new as in new revision?


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> no Primochill love at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So paint thinner / turpentine for cleaning or is it to harsh?
> 
> Gonna try water first
> Yeah I use black PrimoChill *PrimoFlex Advanced LRT* (stuff with plasticizer apparently)
> 
> Like I said tho my loop hasnt been pulled apart in nearly a year


I thought it was the Advanced that didn't suffer from the plasticizer issue?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yay,new Aquaero!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that new for you or new as in new revision?
Click to expand...

First 6.....


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yay,new Aquaero!


Even though I already have an aq6, your picture just made me wanna buy another.














two thumbs up!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> no Primochill love at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So paint thinner / turpentine for cleaning or is it to harsh?
> 
> Gonna try water first
> Yeah I use black PrimoChill *PrimoFlex Advanced LRT* (stuff with plasticizer apparently)
> 
> Like I said tho my loop hasnt been pulled apart in nearly a year
> 
> 
> 
> I thought it was the Advanced that didn't suffer from the plasticizer issue?
Click to expand...

Correct. Primochill Advanced LRT is plasticizer free.
Their older Primochill Pro LRT had terrible plasticizer issues.
Primochill should have changed the LRT part of the name too to help alleviate some people's confusion between them.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Correct. Primochill Advanced LRT is plasticizer free.
> Their older Primochill Pro LRT had terrible plasticizer issues.
> Primochill should have changed the LRT part of the name too to help alleviate some people's confusion between them.


they should have!

My friend who's retiring from PC buuilding is gonna sell me 2 more e3 pumps for 350 happy day!


----------



## scubadiver59

For my first water build...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




3x 780 Lightnings+EKs & 1x 680 Lightning+Aqua



Looks like I have my work cut out for me...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey Guys im trying to decide on what CPU block to go with for my build them, sooo hard to choose, so i thought id ask your opinion on what you guys think will look better. My build will have Clear tubing with Mayhems Rasp Purple Pastel, Matte Black Bitspower Fittings and all the blocks on my build will be EK black Acetal+Nickel Clean CSQ like the pictures below. What do you think will look better with the theme, EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel or EK-Supremacy EVO - Full Nickel ?




Second question is i seen this picture below posted a couple days ago, and noticed he has his dual pump mounted how i was thinking of doing mine (against a wall with double sided tape), do you think that will be quiet or would that vibrate with the case ?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> For my first water build...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3x 780 Lightnings+EKs & 1x 680 Lightning+Aqua
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I have my work cut out for me...


Sick!!! Hope you have a darn good power supply lol


----------



## tatmMRKIV

hope he has a few darn good power supplies


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> 
> 
> Should I stick with white tubing or go with clear and a pastel white dye?
> Also has anyone else had problems with Primochill LRT tubing? The wall seems too thick and I can't get the compression caps on. Could just be my fittings though.


Run whatever jazzes you up. I personally do not believe in adding a dye to my loop. Yeah it would look cool. But then after awhile I would grow bored of the color/look and want to change it. Nothing wrong with that if you have the funds and the gumption. But imph, if their is nothing other than dye to help bring down the temps... it's wasted on me and money that I could put toward another component in the system or loop. But if dyes are your thing, nothing that I or anyone else says should matter. You're the person that has to live with/approve of the finished process.









I've had problems with Primochill tubing.

First one is that their tubes are irregular in external thickness. This made it seriously difficult to connect the compression ring to the barb end of my fittings in some cases. Not that bad when you have the room to manuever but it absolutely sucks eggs in harder to reach areas in my build making angle fittings all the more necessary.

2nd problem is Plasticizer. And THAT is the main reason I am going to Hardline tubing instead of flexible.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Plasticizer and dye.
> 
> 
> 
> I dont use dye just straight distilled with *Liquid Utopia*...
> 
> What should I use to clean it? see if it is just crap from plasticizer or not
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yoinks.....
> 
> Qtip and light solvent (water or similar) should get it off,cellulose thinners for the metal parts and acid wash for the plastics will definitely shift it if its encrusted.
Click to expand...

Ketchup will eliminate MOST of that without any elbow grease. I came back home after an extended abscence and my block looked alot like his without the dye stains. My block is Copper too. I've just got a slight bit of corrosion in the cooling fins but I'll give it another dose of Heinz before I connect and fill the loop and use an old toothbrush to make it fill the spaces enough to clear it out and then rinse it with warm vinegar and then hot Distilled water to remove the PH. No fuss no muss, work smarter not harder.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I'll try that tomorrow, then if I have to something harsher
> 
> The red and blue is what made me think is was corrosion or algae, its not smooth its slightly rough
> Yeah... its a bit weird, when I built this loop I made 100% sure nothing could cause corrosion thats why I was shocked when I seen the block and had to ask
> 
> The only thing I can really think of is the Liquid Utopia, tubing, metals & distilled water didnt play nice together
> 
> The water that came out of my loop was clean like the day it went in and the plasticizer wasnt that bad either, maybe a total of 20cm out of the 1.5m that was actually in there
> 
> 
> 
> I heard ketchup is the best for cleaning copper blocks something to do with the slight acidity I have never tried it but then again I have always used a strong corrosion inhibitor so I have never had to clean a block,
Click to expand...

It is the best. Ketchup contains vinegar and that is what contains the acidity. Otherwise I would use straight tomato paste which is cheaper than my brand of Ketchup.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> no Primochill love at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So paint thinner / turpentine for cleaning or is it to harsh?
> 
> Gonna try water first
> Yeah I use black PrimoChill *PrimoFlex Advanced LRT* (stuff with plasticizer apparently)
> 
> Like I said tho my loop hasnt been pulled apart in nearly a year
> 
> 
> 
> I thought it was the Advanced that didn't suffer from the plasticizer issue?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Correct. Primochill Advanced LRT is plasticizer free.
> Their older Primochill Pro LRT had terrible plasticizer issues.
> Primochill should have changed the LRT part of the name too to help alleviate some people's confusion between them.
Click to expand...

Ummm hate to inform you but PC LRT is NOT plasticizer free. Their newer Advanced (as far as I am aware an I could be wrong) has had issues reported in the Plasticizer thread as well. They may have sorted it out since my LRT is a couple years old, but I don't want potential hazards cropping up. I can send you a piece of my White LRT which has run ZERO dyes in the loop, no biocides or silver were introduced either. The tubing took on a green patina (copper and brass only) and my fittings got white gunk on them. Since I've only run LRT in my loop, I know for a fact that it wasn't residue left over from another brand.

Oh and they did change the name. From LRT to *ADVANCED LRT*. Guess they have a warehouse full of the original LRT stuff.









_____

Can't wait for PPC's to restock that Phobya 200. Got my case modded to accept it. All I need do atm is repaint the spots vacated by the Storage Rack.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have to buy more Autosol and PlastX then pretty much any other cleaning supply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have had some very severely stained nickel when I would use undiluted Ice Dragon Cooling nanofluid. Nothing worked at cleaning it besides polishing it off. Just make sure you go over the block w/ toothbrush + soap after you use the polish.
> 
> Most brands of metal polish will work but Autosol is the best.


Thanks I'll have to try it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> I thought it was the *Advanced that didn't suffer from the plasticizer issue*?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Correct. *Primochill Advanced LRT is plasticizer free*.
> Their older Primochill Pro LRT had terrible plasticizer issues.
> Primochill should have changed the LRT part of the name too to help alleviate some people's confusion between them.


Thats what they say but it does have plasticizer, Mine wasnt so bad considering it ran for almost a year with next to no cleaning but still I got crap in my CPU block
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I've had problems with Primochill tubing.
> 
> First one is that their tubes are irregular in external thickness. This made it seriously difficult to connect the compression ring to the barb end of my fittings in some cases. Not that bad when you have the room to manuever but it absolutely sucks eggs in harder to reach areas in my build making angle fittings all the more necessary.


I noticed the tubes were a bit odd sometimes, I dont have to worry fittings to much seeing I'm using 1/2" barbs with 7/16" tube but I have noticed it when trying to do a sharpish bend
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ketchup will eliminate MOST of that without any elbow grease. I came back home after an extended abscence and my block looked alot like his without the dye stains. My block is Copper too. I've just got a slight bit of corrosion in the cooling fins but I'll give it another dose of Heinz before I connect and fill the loop and use an old toothbrush to make it fill the spaces enough to clear it out and then rinse it with warm vinegar and then hot Distilled water to remove the PH. No fuss no muss, work smarter not harder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the best. Ketchup contains vinegar and that is what contains the acidity. Otherwise I would use straight tomato paste which is cheaper than my brand of Ketchup.


Funny thing is I used no dye







just straight distilled and it still came out like that

I didnt bother with 'Ketchup' while I was cleaning mine, after the soap and hot water stopped getting it off I went straight to white wine vinegar which removed most of the crap then vinegar with bicarb to remove the majority of it

I think this block may be a goner tho, its still stuck in the fins pretty badly (and almost rock hard







) and its still on the flow plate or that could just be stained
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ummm hate to inform you but PC LRT is NOT plasticizer free. Their newer Advanced (as far as I am aware an I could be wrong) has had issues reported in the Plasticizer thread as well. They may have sorted it out since my LRT is a couple years old, but I don't want potential hazards cropping up. I can send you a piece of my White LRT which has run ZERO dyes in the loop, no biocides or silver were introduced either. The tubing took on a green patina (copper and brass only) and my fittings got white gunk on them. Since I've only run LRT in my loop, I know for a fact that it wasn't residue left over from another brand.


Yup the Advanced LRT has plasticizer as well, maybe my stuff is just a crap batch but I got it after "they had sorted out the plasticizer issue with it" an yet I still have it with straight distilled and Liquid Utopia









_____

Questions









Is a killcoil small enough to get caught in a 1/4" hole? this is my biggest concern with them seeing as I have a pump res combo I dont want it getting sucked into it

Does anyone know where to get some 7/16" black Neoprene tube? I've had a quickish look but cant find much apart from a 50ft roll for $110 which is a tad expensive, although would last a life time









And finally, if all else fails on this algae crap would diluted bleach or something be a next step before thinners and turps?

Thanks









Sorry for the monster post


----------



## zzorro

hi guys..
just little update rebuilding from my dual loop wc setup
rebuilding job.. still going on.. stay tuned for completion..









before.. old build..


Now rebuilding job still going on


----------



## jpetrach

hi guys we recently switched over to sodium bicarbonate blasting for aluminum and copper restoration. ill link the article, I made my own soda blasting gun at home with a blower wand and some old tubing from plumbing my computer. it works great without damaging the base material. good idea for those tight spots on water blocks. baking soda is all it is. best part when your done rinse with warm water and it dissolves!!!

I have an 18 gallon air compressor and a good line drier. siphon tube at least 3 feet psi set to 90 and your off. I made a small blasting cabinet from a tote (pic pulled off the net I always forget to take pictures)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodablasting


----------



## stickg1

@Aussiejuggalo

I use this stuff, IDK if you can fit it over your fittings though.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/10-16mm-3-8-5-8-tubing/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail.html


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> @Aussiejuggalo
> 
> I use this stuff, IDK if you can fit it over your fittings though.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/10-16mm-3-8-5-8-tubing/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail.html


Thanks, I was looking at that but I would probably need to buy new barbs or tie them down pretty tight

I was looking at Performance PCs and noticed they have 4 7/16" black tubing, Tygon R3400, XSPC High Flex, Masterkleer Hose PVC & XSPC FLX Premium Grade PVC has anyone tried any of them? would be a pita to order from there but if any of them are better quality then my current tube I'll suck it up and do it


----------



## stickg1

Are you using barbs or compression fittings?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Are you using barbs or compression fittings?


Straight 1/2 barbs, did it coz I like the look of the tube just sitting on them with no clamps


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Straight 1/2 barbs, did it coz I like the look of the tube just sitting on them with no clamps


Ahh okay, I was going to say, if you had 7/16" barbs it would work. But your already rockin' the snug clampless fit with the 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ahh okay, I was going to say, if you had 7/16" barbs it would work. But your already rockin' the snug clampless fit with the 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs.


Yeah cant beat it







, I think I'll buy new tube, this primochill stuff is annoying

On another note I got most of my block clean but.... there seems to rust on the fins and there was some on the flow plate till I cleaned it with Brasso, got Silvo for the fins but its not going very well, gonna keep working on it tho


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have to buy more Autosol and PlastX then pretty much any other cleaning supply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have had some very severely stained nickel when I would use undiluted Ice Dragon Cooling nanofluid. Nothing worked at cleaning it besides polishing it off. Just make sure you go over the block w/ toothbrush + soap after you use the polish.
> 
> Most brands of metal polish will work but Autosol is the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks I'll have to try it
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> I thought it was the *Advanced that didn't suffer from the plasticizer issue*?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Correct. *Primochill Advanced LRT is plasticizer free*.
> Their older Primochill Pro LRT had terrible plasticizer issues.
> Primochill should have changed the LRT part of the name too to help alleviate some people's confusion between them.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thats what they say but it does have plasticizer, Mine wasnt so bad considering it ran for almost a year with next to no cleaning but still I got crap in my CPU block
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I've had problems with Primochill tubing.
> 
> First one is that their tubes are irregular in external thickness. This made it seriously difficult to connect the compression ring to the barb end of my fittings in some cases. Not that bad when you have the room to manuever but it absolutely sucks eggs in harder to reach areas in my build making angle fittings all the more necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I noticed the tubes were a bit odd sometimes, I dont have to worry fittings to much seeing I'm using 1/2" barbs with 7/16" tube but I have noticed it when trying to do a sharpish bend
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ketchup will eliminate MOST of that without any elbow grease. I came back home after an extended abscence and my block looked alot like his without the dye stains. My block is Copper too. I've just got a slight bit of corrosion in the cooling fins but I'll give it another dose of Heinz before I connect and fill the loop and use an old toothbrush to make it fill the spaces enough to clear it out and then rinse it with warm vinegar and then hot Distilled water to remove the PH. No fuss no muss, work smarter not harder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the best. Ketchup contains vinegar and that is what contains the acidity. Otherwise I would use straight tomato paste which is cheaper than my brand of Ketchup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Funny thing is I used no dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just straight distilled and it still came out like that
> 
> I didnt bother with 'Ketchup' while I was cleaning mine, after the soap and hot water stopped getting it off I went straight to white wine vinegar which removed most of the crap then vinegar with bicarb to remove the majority of it
> 
> I think this block may be a goner tho, its still stuck in the fins pretty badly (and almost rock hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and its still on the flow plate or that could just be stained
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ummm hate to inform you but PC LRT is NOT plasticizer free. Their newer Advanced (as far as I am aware an I could be wrong) has had issues reported in the Plasticizer thread as well. They may have sorted it out since my LRT is a couple years old, but I don't want potential hazards cropping up. I can send you a piece of my White LRT which has run ZERO dyes in the loop, no biocides or silver were introduced either. The tubing took on a green patina (copper and brass only) and my fittings got white gunk on them. Since I've only run LRT in my loop, I know for a fact that it wasn't residue left over from another brand.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup the Advanced LRT has plasticizer as well, maybe my stuff is just a crap batch but I got it after "they had sorted out the plasticizer issue with it" an yet I still have it with straight distilled and Liquid Utopia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _____
> 
> Questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is a killcoil small enough to get caught in a 1/4" hole? this is my biggest concern with them seeing as I have a pump res combo I dont want it getting sucked into it
> 
> Does anyone know where to get some 7/16" black Neoprene tube? I've had a quickish look but cant find much apart from a 50ft roll for $110 which is a tad expensive, although would last a life time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, if all else fails on this algae crap would diluted bleach or something be a next step before thinners and turps?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the monster post
Click to expand...

Kill coil shouldn't fit into a 1/4" hole but shouldn't matter since it's a coil.









Put your block on a plate. Fill the chamber with Ketchup and let it sit. Check on it in about 30 minutes w/o rinsing it and you will see bubbles percolating. That tells you that it's doing the job. If you rinse it and see that it still needs time to clean it, add more Ketchup and scrub it in there with a brush. Not hard as Copper is easily manipulated and you don't want to squish your fins together. Basically fill up the chamber til the fins are covered, brush and fill to the brim. Let it sit and you should be fine. My block looked way worse than yours did. The chamber in my block was completely black when I opened it. I wouldn't use bleach on it. No bueno imho. and DEFINITELY no for thinners and turps. You might try lemon juice to kill the Algae and then rinse it thoroughly afterward. That's probably as harsh as I would go.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> hi guys..
> just little update rebuilding from my dual loop wc setup
> rebuilding job.. still going on.. stay tuned for completion..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> before.. old build..
> 
> 
> Now rebuilding job still going on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man, I only wish I had room for a 400mm in my build. Looks sharp.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kill coil shouldn't fit into a 1/4" hole but shouldn't matter since it's a coil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your block on a plate. Fill the chamber with Ketchup and let it sit. Check on it in about 30 minutes w/o rinsing it and you will see bubbles percolating. That tells you that it's doing the job. If you rinse it and see that it still needs time to clean it, add more Ketchup and scrub it in there with a brush. Not hard as Copper is easily manipulated and you don't want to squish your fins together. Basically fill up the chamber til the fins are covered, brush and fill to the brim. Let it sit and you should be fine. My block looked way worse than yours did. The chamber in my block was completely black when I opened it. I wouldn't use bleach on it. No bueno imho. and DEFINITELY no for thinners and turps. You might try lemon juice to kill the Algae and then rinse it thoroughly afterward. That's probably as harsh as I would go.


Ah ok, I'll grab a killcoil then

I tried vinegar and bicarb again a few times with no real result so I ended up getting annoyed and used some watered down bleach, gave it a good quick scrub (less then a min before washing it off in boiling water) but still did nothing









After looking at it a bit better as I said before, all the algaes gone but its seems to be slightly rusted







I picked my parts really carefully so it couldnt rust but it still did...


----------



## pc-illiterate

bicarbonate will turn your vinegar into an unacidic juice. it is a neutralizer to acid.


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Sick!!! Hope you have a darn good power supply lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> hope he has a few darn good power supplies


I have two Corsair PSUs lined up, an 850 and a 1200, that will hopefully give me the power I need. Building a HAF Stacker 935.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> bicarbonate will turn your vinegar into an unacidic juice. it is a neutralizer to acid.


Yeah I know but its helped lift a lot of crap off, I was doing straight vinegar then vinegar and bicarb then straight vinegar again which got rid of all the algae

Now my problem is what appears to be rust, the fins seem to have started to rust same with some small dots around them, the flow plate had rust but as I said before it came off with brasso after a while of scrubbing

I didnt go to bleach or brasso and silvo without trying everything else first, spent the better part of lastnight cleaning using all the suggestions people said

I'll try and take some pics for you guys


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> bicarbonate will turn your vinegar into an unacidic juice. it is a neutralizer to acid.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I know but its helped lift a lot of crap off, I was doing straight vinegar then vinegar and bicarb then straight vinegar again which got rid of all the algae
> 
> Now my problem is what appears to be rust, the fins seem to have started to rust same with some small dots around them, the flow plate had rust but as I said before it came off with brasso after a while of scrubbing
> 
> I didnt go to bleach or brasso and silvo without trying everything else first, spent the better part of lastnight cleaning using all the suggestions people said
> 
> I'll try and take some pics for you guys
Click to expand...

Copper doesn't rust. It Patinas. So yeah it probably still is algae. Unless it's buish green of course. Then that would be patina.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> For my first water build...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3x 780 Lightnings+EKs & 1x 680 Lightning+Aqua
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I have my work cut out for me...


Why 780s and a 680?


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Why 780s and a 680?


What I have around for gaming/folding...three 780s in SLI and the 680 for physx


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Copper doesn't rust. It Patinas. So yeah it probably still is algae. Unless it's buish green of course. Then that would be patina.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well if it was algae is was the most stubborn sob in the world it survived soap, vinegar, vinegar and bicarb, 'ketchup' & bleach, silvo was the only thing able to get rid of it

This is the end result

This one cleaned up pretty quickly with vinegar and bicarb



This one wouldnt clean with anything but silvo, scrubbed it with vinegar for a good hour, let it sit in a vinegar/water bath over night and nothing but as you can see where the algae/rust or whatever it was, was its taken the nickel plating off



Sorry for the potato pics, cant find my camera atm


----------



## pc-illiterate

what makes you think you need a dedicated physx card?


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> what makes you think you need a dedicated physx card?


Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Isn't having a card for physX a bit of a waste these days considering how powerful all the current cards are, It was really only useful when people ran 400 and 500 series cards.


----------



## derickwm

If the man wants to fold, let him fold I say.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Copper doesn't rust. It Patinas. So yeah it probably still is algae. Unless it's buish green of course. Then that would be patina.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well if it was algae is was the most stubborn sob in the world it survived soap, vinegar, vinegar and bicarb, 'ketchup' & bleach, silvo was the only thing able to get rid of it
> 
> This is the end result
> 
> This one cleaned up pretty quickly with vinegar and bicarb
> 
> 
> 
> This one wouldnt clean with anything but silvo, scrubbed it with vinegar for a good hour, let it sit in a vinegar/water bath over night and nothing but as you can see where the algae/rust or whatever it was, was its taken the nickel plating off
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the potato pics, cant find my camera atm
Click to expand...

Well then it's not rust. It's copper. Nickel plate is applied to copper. So no worries about rust. Didn't realize that it's nickel. The lighting of your pics is kinda dark. To be expected of course.

But yeah the 2nd one is definitely Copper showing through the Nickel plate.









Oh and the dark is "tarnish" save for the fins. I cannot tell from that pic if the algae was cleared and the remaining nickel is tarnished. I could better tell if it were in my hands and able to get some light on the subject.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well then it's not rust. It's copper. Nickel plate is applied to copper. So no worries about rust. Didn't realize that it's nickel. The lighting of your pics is kinda dark. To be expected of course.
> 
> But yeah the 2nd one is definitely Copper showing through the Nickel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The block is an Ek Supremacy CPU Full Nickel, but yeah after the second go with silvo I reaslized it went to the copper, whatever the hell was on it, it didnt want to come off







, before that tho it was the same red as my previous pics the "algae red", sorry about the pics I did my best









Now its gone down to the copper is there anything I should be careful of?

Also I'm thinking of getting rid of the primochill tube and going for the Tygon R3400 from PPCS, good choice or no?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well then it's not rust. It's copper. Nickel plate is applied to copper. So no worries about rust. Didn't realize that it's nickel. The lighting of your pics is kinda dark. To be expected of course.
> 
> But yeah the 2nd one is definitely Copper showing through the Nickel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The block is an Ek Supremacy CPU Full Nickel, but yeah after the second go with silvo I reaslized it went to the copper, whatever the hell was on it, it didnt want to come off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , before that tho it was the same red as my previous pics the "algae red", sorry about the pics I did my best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its gone down to the copper is there anything I should be careful of?
Click to expand...

Sadly unless you get it re-plated, I think that is as good as it's gonna get unless someone else has some ideas that I am unaware of. So long as the exterior is okay the interior chamber should continue to perform just as it had when it was new. Nickel doesn't provide any increase in performance over copper. It's strictly an aesthetics issue at this point. If it bothers you or not...









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sadly unless you get it re-plated, I think that is as good as it's gonna get unless someone else has some ideas that I am unaware of. So long as the exterior is okay the interior chamber should continue to perform just as it had when it was new. Nickel doesn't provide any increase in performance over copper. It's strictly an aesthetics issue at this point. If it bothers you or not...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah cool, thanks









We were really careful to keep the outside good, its just he bottom plate with the fins that have the copper exposed so I suppose that shouldnt be to much of a problem seeing its internal


----------



## electro2u

This is fascinating stuff. Guess I need to bite the bullet and get rid of the primochill tubing. There was some speculation elsewhere that pro tubing was ending up in advanced packages...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah cool, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We were really careful to keep the outside good, its just he bottom plate with the fins that have the copper exposed so I suppose that shouldnt be to much of a problem seeing its internal


So do you think it was maybe some plasticizer, but also the nickel flaking was maybe from the mixed metals, such as the Silver in the fittings, and then distilled h2o being used instead of a coolant with corrosion inhibitors?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> So do you think it was maybe some plasticizer, but also the nickel flaking was maybe from the mixed metals, such as the Silver in the fittings, and then distilled h2o being used instead of a coolant with corrosion inhibitors?


I honestly have no idea, I was using XSPC black chrome barbs with AX rads and the EK block, so maybe something with the barbs and the tubes or Liquid Utopia?

I've changed all my barbs to bitspower black chrome and will be getting a killcoil and probably change my tube to something else


----------



## Majentrix

Guess I'd better get rid of my Primochill Advanced LRT tubing too, I'm getting blisters on my hands from trying shove the caps on.
Real shame though, I really liked the semi-rigidity it had.


----------



## side37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I dont use dye just straight distilled with Liquid Utopia...


I've also got some issues in my loop and am also using Advanced LRT (yellow) tubing and distilled + liquid utopia. I haven't checked inside my CPU block yet but I can see some green deposits in my plexi GPU blocks similar to yours. I also have green sand like particles building up in my res (!?) and was looking at cleaning the system and switching to Mayhems X1, but I might move away from Advanced LRT tubing too after reading this. I thought the Advanced LRT was alright but it sounds like that may not be the case.



I can see green particles building up under the shelf too.. Some of the crap there is possibly related to my Alphacool rads which are known for being dirty (I did flush them but it sounds like Alphacool rads need more than just a few rinses with water..).


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Yeah I bought the Advanced tubing thinking it was pretty good but I guess not







, I'm kinda glad I didnt have my GPU block in as well or that could of been really bad. When I bought it I did read the plasticizer thread and noticed some complaints about it but every single person who had problems had a killcoil (another reason I didnt use one) but I guess its just a pita no matter what









Think I'm personally gonna get either XSPC High Flex, Masterkleer Hose PVC or XSPC FLX Premium Grade PVC, dunno which one yet, its really hard to find decent 7/16" black tubing lol and a killcoil so hopefully this crap wont happen again or maybe see if I can get something custom made to suit me better









A killcoil only needs to be 99.99% pure silver doesnt it? shape and size dont matter do they?

Edit, Another question sorry, If I was to go for Norprene tube which ID 1/2" one would go good with my current barbs, should I go for 3/4" or 5/8" OD? Which ever one I go I'll probably end up using some Bitspower Luxury clamps (not that I'm a fan of clamps)

Thanks









This time I want to minimise the risk of having crap growing and clogging up my blocks


----------



## nRRe

Just finished this a few days ago...this is like my 6th reiteration of a build in this poor case.

NZXT Source 530 - removed 5.25" bays
i7-4770k - Strix GTX970 (soon to be blocked)
xspc 360mm rad - laing ddc-t pump w/clear ek pumptop - ek resx3 reservoir - xspc black chrome low profile fittings - all corsair sp120mm fans (sp140mm fans on front intake/rear exhaust)

Mayhems Pastel Ice White was just ordered

ToDo:
Block for Strix 970 (once my evga gtx760 sells)


----------



## sdmf74

Ive been using white primochill advanced LRT pro or w/e its called and havent had any problems....yet anyway

666 posts!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> For my first water build...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3x 780 Lightnings+EKs & 1x 680 Lightning+Aqua
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I have my work cut out for me...


I got very excited, until I saw you said GTX 780's ... Kind of wished it was three R9 290X Lightnings. And the GTX 680 is for PhysX?

How is the Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity radiators? Alu-fins vs copper fins?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I bought the Advanced tubing thinking it was pretty good but I guess not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I'm kinda glad I didnt have my GPU block in as well or that could of been really bad. When I bought it I did read the plasticizer thread and noticed some complaints about it but every single person who had problems had a killcoil (another reason I didnt use one) but I guess its just a pita no matter what
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'm personally gonna get either XSPC High Flex, Masterkleer Hose PVC or XSPC FLX Premium Grade PVC, dunno which one yet, its really hard to find decent 7/16" black tubing lol and a killcoil so hopefully this crap wont happen again or maybe see if I can get something custom made to suit me better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A killcoil only needs to be 99.99% pure silver doesnt it? shape and size dont matter do they?
> 
> Edit, Another question sorry, If I was to go for Norprene tube which ID 1/2" one would go good with my current barbs, should I go for 3/4" or 5/8" OD? Which ever one I go I'll probably end up using some Bitspower Luxury clamps (not that I'm a fan of clamps)
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I want to minimise the risk of having crap growing and clogging up my blocks


If your problem is with plasticizer don't get XSPC. I think I remember Mayhems doing some test with tube + mayhems liquid (pastel) and tygon tube passed with flying colors while Primochill did not. In any case I like ek black rubber tube too. Those are clean.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I bought the Advanced tubing thinking it was pretty good but I guess not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I'm kinda glad I didnt have my GPU block in as well or that could of been really bad. When I bought it I did read the plasticizer thread and noticed some complaints about it but every single person who had problems had a killcoil (another reason I didnt use one) but I guess its just a pita no matter what
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'm personally gonna get either XSPC High Flex, Masterkleer Hose PVC or XSPC FLX Premium Grade PVC, dunno which one yet, its really hard to find decent 7/16" black tubing lol and a killcoil so hopefully this crap wont happen again or maybe see if I can get something custom made to suit me better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A killcoil only needs to be 99.99% pure silver doesnt it? shape and size dont matter do they?
> 
> Edit, Another question sorry, If I was to go for Norprene tube which ID 1/2" one would go good with my current barbs, should I go for 3/4" or 5/8" OD? Which ever one I go I'll probably end up using some Bitspower Luxury clamps (not that I'm a fan of clamps)
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I want to minimise the risk of having crap growing and clogging up my blocks


Masterkleer is the worst, insane amount of plasticizer... Primochill Advance LRT is much better then both XSPC and Masterclear.


----------



## CaliLife17

Going to drain my Loop to day to prep the move to a new case. I am using X1 coolant, pre-mixed. What is the best way to dispose of the liquid in the bucket, just throw it in the toilet?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Going to drain my Loop to day to prep the move to a new case. I am using X1 coolant, pre-mixed. What is the best way to dispose of the liquid in the bucket, just throw it in the toilet?


It's fine to just flush it, I think. Nothing particularly toxic in there, just biocide for algae and anti-corrosive.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's fine to just flush it, I think. Nothing particularly toxic in there, just biocide for algae and anti-corrosive.


Plus biodegradable within 30 days








So it's safe


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I am sitting here thinking of throwing out my two Monsta 480s for three Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity 480s, Single Circuit, any problems just going for the Aluminum version?


----------



## VSG

I wish I could answer that but Aquacomputer had no interest in me testing out their rads (understandably so). I remember Martin's test where it wasn't the best performer even back then and one particular OCN member who had a ton of issues with it lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am sitting here thinking of throwing out my two Monsta 480s for three Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity 480s, Single Circuit, any problems just going for the Aluminum version?


I use 2 of the 240's,fair performance...very restrictive. Great looking rad tho!


----------



## CrSt3r

I'm using 2*240s and 1*140 ... cant compare the performance, but from tests ive read, they are very restrictive and seem to have only an average performance.

But i like the looks and the connectivity. Could even switch the pre-mounted Pump+D5-Combo from my 140mm to one 240mm rad without any issues. And having 2 INs + OUTs is nice, too !


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

If your Primochill Advanced LRT had plasticizer issues you only thought you had Primochill Advanced LRT tubing. The only things I can think of is perhaps whoever you bought it from _mistakenly_ mixed it up with Primochill Pro LRT? Or else you have mistaken whatever issue you had for being anything to do with plasticizer.

Advanced LRT is very stiff and can run on the thick side, which definitely can cause problems with fitting into fittings, and it can get cloudy over time just like any other clear or translucent tubing, but plasticizer is just not an issue with it. I've used waaaay too much of this tubing in all sorts of different colors and sizes for me to believe any different.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I wish I could answer that but Aquacomputer had no interest in me testing out their rads (understandably so). I remember Martin's test where it wasn't the best performer even back then and one particular OCN member who had a ton of issues with it lol.


I read this review: http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-system/ and there it is coming out better than the other radiators tested (pretty restrictive though, which is my biggest concern). I have not read about any problems with them though, I would like to read about that.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use 2 of the 240's,fair performance...very restrictive. Great looking rad tho!


They are so beautiful-looking, but kind of expensive and very restrictive (not sure the two D5s I am going to use will do too good with three of them).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrSt3r*
> 
> I'm using 2*240s and 1*140 ... cant compare the performance, but from tests ive read, they are very restrictive and seem to have only an average performance.
> 
> But i like the looks and the connectivity. Could even switch the pre-mounted Pump+D5-Combo from my 140mm to one 240mm rad without any issues. And having 2 INs + OUTs is nice, too !


They are better than average performance (look at the review posted further up in this post).

The looks is mainly the reason I am looking at them (and that my Monsta 480s is not very clean inside), the connectivity of G1/4" does not really matter to me, the Monsta radiator also has seven of those.


----------



## gdubc

How about these *ones*? The "Radical Series"


----------



## Lefik

I think they just launched those; probably not many reviews on them.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> How about these *ones*? The "Radical Series"


It depends on what you are referring to, in my case I need radiator + fans to be about 80-85 mm thick in the top of my case to fill it out and to look the best, I have not really read much about the "Radical Series". My best guess is that they are estimated for fans above 1500 rpm (too noisy for me), high FPI and pretty much the same as the XSPC EX and EK PE radiators (just a guess though).

They are also just launched (around eight October) so I guess there will be a while to you see some reviews of those.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I read this review: http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-system/ and there it is coming out better than the other radiators tested (pretty restrictive though, which is my biggest concern). I have not read about any problems with them though, I would like to read about that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are so beautiful-looking, but kind of expensive and very restrictive (not sure the two D5s I am going to use will do too good with three of them).
> They are better than average performance (look at the review posted further up in this post).
> 
> The looks is mainly the reason I am looking at them (and that my Monsta 480s is not very clean inside), the connectivity of G1/4" does not really matter to me, the Monsta radiator also has seven of those.


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/12/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-ams-copper-360-radiator/

This post onwards is what I meant: http://www.overclock.net/t/1037941/56k-warning-new-aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-system-radiators/100_50#post_17405373

I am kind of with the others in there, the testing methodology in that Pureoverclock review isn't exactly great- especially when they have results of rads being ok without fans at a 300w load








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> How about these *ones*? The "Radical Series"


Brand new, definitely look cool and the fan screw standoff idea is a good one if it works in practice. I am still not sure how they are replaceable and yet remain in place if mounted horizontally from the top of a case for example. I haven't seen anyone test these out yet but a guy who got it wasn't exactly impressed by the fins: http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/der-wakue-bastel-bilder-thread-ungesplittet-regelupdate-1-post-beachten-776300-488.html#post22740038

Seeing how good AquaComputer is with build quality, that's probably a 1 off incident though.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/12/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-ams-copper-360-radiator/
> 
> This post onwards is what I meant: http://www.overclock.net/t/1037941/56k-warning-new-aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-system-radiators/100_50#post_17405373
> 
> I am kind of with the others in there, the testing methodology in that Pureoverclock review isn't exactly great- especially when they have results of rads being ok without fans at a 300w load


I have to read that some other time, probably going to stick to my Monsta's for a while and clean them goooooood before usage.

That wattage calculation sounded very weird to me, 315 watts of power on a fan-less radiator? Yeah, right.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If your problem is with plasticizer don't get XSPC. I think I remember Mayhems doing some test with tube + mayhems liquid (pastel) and tygon tube passed with flying colors while Primochill did not. In any case I like ek black rubber tube too. Those are clean.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Masterkleer is the worst, insane amount of plasticizer... Primochill Advance LRT is much better then both XSPC and Masterclear.


Hmm well thats annoying, why must it be so hard to get coloured plasticizer free tube?!









Think I'll go with Tygon A-60-G Norprene then, should I get the 3/4" OD or 5/8" OD?

Also what kind of clamps are recommended with Norprene?, I know it can be kinda a pita to work with and I dont want it coming off my current Bitspower barbs (just spent a small fortune on them)

Thanks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If your problem is with plasticizer don't get XSPC. *I think I remember Mayhems doing some test with tube + mayhems liquid (pastel) and tygon tube passed with flying colors while Primochill did not*. In any case I like ek black rubber tube too. Those are clean.


Where did you see this? Primochill Advanced LRT is a DEHP free tubing (does not have plasticizer) and is one of only two recommended by Mick in the first post on the Mayhems Club thread ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> *Mayhems Official users club*
> 
> Oky its hard searching for info on our stuff on this site some times, so here is a nice little "Club" were you can keep it all in one place.
> 
> Mayhems ethics fall in this order -
> 
> 
> Support for the Consumer and Reseller alike. No one is treated any differently. Every one is equal no matter if you spend £0 or £10,000 with us.
> Distribution - we do not sell in every shop going and we refuse to sell in a lot of shops. We will not flood the market as we feel this destroys the market place and the products.
> Products - We strive for quality and if there is a problem we will sort it out as fast as we possibly can. No company is perfect, but by working closely with our consumers and resellers we aim to come pretty dammed close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Products supported on this post are as follows. This will be updated as new products are released.
> 
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Pro and Basic Kits
> Mayhems Aurora
> Mayhems Pastel
> Mayhems X1
> Mayhems XT-1 (New Product)
> Mayhems Dyes
> Mayhems Ultra Pure H20
> Mayhems Biocide Extreme
> Mayhems Rads (360mm Quad pass, 240mm Quad pass)
> 
> Please do not ask me to discuss were to purchase the products from as this is against the forum rules. Other users can say but "Mayhems" is not allowed too. If you have any Support questions you would like to ask keep them in this one thread then other users can find the information more easily.
> 
> *Product Details and extra Info*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Pro and Basic Cleaning Kits*
> 
> Pictured below is the "Mayhems Blitz Pro Kit"
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System is the most comprehensive cleaning kit ever released for liquid cooling computers. It has been developed to clean your radiator's better than new and leave your system in perfect condition. The Blitz Pro kit even comes with a electronic pH test meter so you can check your levels and keep up with regular maintenance on your system
> 
> 
> 
> How Use Mayhems Blitz (part one video)
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Mayhems Aurora*
> 
> Mayhems Aurora is a totally different kind of specialist coolant and should not be used for normal every day use. Consideration about your loop lay out is a must before proceeding to use this liquid. Mayhems Aurora is a photographic, demonstration, Modding and looks only liquid and is not recommended for long term use.
> 
> Do not confuse Mayhems Aurora with any thing else out there.
> 
> Please all ways read the wiki before use - Mayhems Aurora Wiki
> 
> Mayhems Aurora works best in duel pass rads and tube reservoirs. The more complex the loop the less time the liquid will work. Many uses do use the liquid for long term and the most we have tested it use for is 1 year. How ever in complex loops were people have totally ignored our warnings it might only last 24 hours or so.
> 
> Mayhems Aurora is 60nm in size so will not block up in a water block.
> 
> We have read several complaints in the past on forums were users have not followed what we say and then go on a rampage about the coolant not working in there own systems. This is up to the keyboard warriors how ever when it is pointed out to them about the product and the warning labels on the bottles they still refuse to understand the complexity of the product it self.
> 
> There are several good reviews of the product out there and it up to you the user to do the research beforehand. We can only do so much.
> 
> Colours Mayhems Aurora comes in as standard in 250ml concentrate and 1ltr premixed.
> 
> 
> Clear & Silver (add your own dyes to make any colour you wish)
> Red & Silver
> Blue and Silver
> Pink and Silver
> Purple and Silver
> Green and Silver
> Clear and Gold (add your own dyes to make any colour you wish)
> Purple and Gold
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Common Q&A for Aurora*
> 
> *Q:* Will Aurora block my system?
> *A:* No it should not block you system as it contains particles smaller than 40nm. It can get caught up in crevices in rads and some reservoirs. It will fall out of suspension in dead water areas of systems. This is why a good flow in you system is a must with this liquid.
> 
> *Q:* Will Aurora stain my system?
> *A:* Aurora should not stain your system as we do not use a UV Dye in it. How ever prolonged use of the Coolant may see some slight staining.
> 
> *Q:* I have a bay reservoir will aurora work in it?
> *A:* Short answer is no. Long answer is that "Some" bay reservoirs have dead spots in there and this is like having a whirl pool inside you reservoir and the pearl will gather at the bottom of this. For the short term this is fine how ever over long periods of time you will see the pearl drop out of suspension.
> 
> *Q:* How do i flush the system after i have used aurora?
> *A:* We plumb the PC in the mains tap and turn it on very slowly and leave it running for 15min to 30min this normally does the job fine. Then we rinse with DI water when we have finished.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Mayhems Pastel Coolant*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel is a mixed bag of tricks and has a extremely long life span. This product was developed in conjunction with "Ice Dragon Cooling" to produce pastel type colours for the PC user. Mayhems Pastel Coolants can be used up to 3 years in a system.
> 
> *UPDATE :* *PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Working*, Tygon E1000 Working. "DEHP" free tubing is recommended for use with Mayhems pastel coolants.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [...]
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Where did you see this? Primochill Advanced LRT is a DEHP free tubing (does not have plasticizer) and is one of only two recommended by Mick in the first post on the Mayhems Club thread ...


DEHP free means the plasticiser is not made of DEHP, but there is still plasticiser in it, otherwise it wouldn't bend.

The reason Advanced LRT doesn't leak its plasticiser is because of the uncommonly thick inner wall, which is why it's not so flexible as other tubing.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Where did you see this? Primochill Advanced LRT is a DEHP free tubing (does not have plasticizer) and is one of only two recommended by Mick in the first post on the Mayhems Club thread ...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/


I can say first hand that the Advanced LRT _does_ have plasticizer, it may be fine with Mayhems dyes and stuff but distilled water it leeches out pretty quick


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I can say first hand that the Advanced LRT _does_ have plasticizer, it may be fine with Mayhems dyes and stuff but distilled water it leeches out pretty quick


No, Advanced LRT does not leech plasticizer. Never ever. Like I said above, you're mistaken somehow.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I can say first hand that the Advanced LRT _does_ have plasticizer, it may be fine with Mayhems dyes and stuff but distilled water it leeches out pretty quick


I think you mean the OLD primochil LTR... advanced has no plasticizers in them.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> No, Advanced LRT does not leech plasticizer. Never ever. Like I said above, you're mistaken somehow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I think you mean the OLD primochil LTR... advanced has no plasticizers in them.


Unless they changed the tube in the last year I'm not mistaken, check my build log to see that I am using the Advanced LRT and if need be I'll grab some tube I just pulled out of my rig and show you proof


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I think you mean the OLD primochil LTR... advanced has no plasticizers in them.


Yes, it does. It's made from PVC which is rigid, unless you add plasticiser, that's what makes it flexible. The plasticiser used may not be DEHP but it's still a plasticiser.

As I said above, the reason _Advanced_ LRT isn't as porous as other tubing, is because of the thicker inner wall which is probably made from some kind of clear resin. They can't make the whole tube out of that resin or it would hardly bend at all. Still some water will get through which is why it eventually clouds like every other flexible PVC tubing.

While I agree with Unicorn, it shouldn't leech, it's possible Aussiejuggalo just got a bad batch with a thinner layer of resin inside, which caused him to have issues.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> While I agree with Unicorn, it shouldn't leech, it's possible Aussiejuggalo just got a bad batch with a thinner layer of resin inside, which caused him to have issues.


Maybe it was the Liquid Utopia that caused it to leech out or the metal in the barbs, block or rad but still...

This is the PrimoChill Advanced LRT I bought around the 1st of November 2013 and has run in my rig from the 5th of December 2013 till the 24th of October 2014





Unless they changed the tubing between those times the Advanced LRT does have plasticizer, maybe its not as bad as the old stuff but its still there

Personally I wont be using PrimoChill tubing again, I'll take a more annoying tube setup with Norprene and clamps over a potentially plasticizer filled PrimoChill system


----------



## Dizzmal

I just realized that I failed to post my upgraded system:





[I


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Where did you see this? Primochill Advanced LRT is a DEHP free tubing (does not have plasticizer) and is one of only two recommended by Mick in the first post on the Mayhems Club thread ...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/


It was the PRO not the advanced:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1380775/what-is-plasticizer

and since then (last time I read it late 2013-early 2014) they have updated the thread with the same info you linked.

In regard to tygon 1000 I can confirm serious discoloration (or should I say gain in color of the tube itself...) over time but no plasticizer on the blocks while using pastel.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Delete this one please.


----------



## electro2u

TrifireH2Ov3
Needs more fire... Have like 50 LEDs sitting around but I'm done for the day.


----------



## Trestles126

question about leak test. I have a D5 ek pump evga supernova 850g2 i have the jumper on the mobo cable and get the psu to power up and supply power to a led light thats on the same molex string that the pump is on. I only have the molex hooked up to the pump. I am not getting power or the pump is not working. its brand new. I have the system filled up and am awaiting running the pump to add more coolant? am I missing something?


----------



## pc-illiterate

psu green jumped to black.
which pump, vario or pwm? are you sure the molex is making good connection? if the pump is getting 12v of juice and the speed dial is at 5, its defective. no other reason it wont start.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> While I agree with Unicorn, it shouldn't leech, it's possible Aussiejuggalo just got a bad batch with a thinner layer of resin inside, which caused him to have issues.
> 
> 
> 
> *Maybe it was the Liquid Utopia* that caused it to leech out or the metal in the barbs, block or rad but still...
> 
> This is the PrimoChill Advanced LRT I bought around the 1st of November 2013 and has run in my rig from the 5th of December 2013 till the 24th of October 2014
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless they changed the tubing between those times the Advanced LRT does have plasticizer, maybe its not as bad as the old stuff but its still there
> 
> Personally I wont be using PrimoChill tubing again, I'll take a more annoying tube setup with Norprene and clamps over a potentially plasticizer filled PrimoChill system
Click to expand...

Hehe, iirc skupples had something similar to what you have pics of with his Norprene tubing when he was using that Primochill Utopia junk in his loop. Terrible stuff that is! IIRC it coated everything in his loop in a white film he first thought was plasticizer too coming from Norprene. lol!

EDIT:
Here's a couple posts of his from this thread ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I found plasticizer type buildup inside my CPU block after 5 months of using Tygon Norprene & Liquid Utopia. I'm wondering if the Utopia caused it, or if the rubber hose can leach other things since there is no plastic content.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I want to say she was together for about 4-5 months. I only saw it within the CPU block. I was "only" using Liquid Utopia, but a few weeks ago I noticed some floaties in my reservoir.
> 
> Note that I Was using Tygon Norprene which is rubber, thus plasticizer free. So l'm not really sure what it was, but it looked like plasticizer gunk. I'm wondering if norprene can also leach, just something other than plastic.
> 
> Glad to hear that the home brew concoction is working. Iv'e known allot of people who have used small amounts of water-wetter.


I suspect all of your problems you have been blaming on the Advanced LRT are not plasticizer but rather issues related to the Liquid Utopia. Neither Advanced LRT nor Norprene ever have issues with plasticizer. But Liquid Utopia can cause problems that resemble it regardless of what tubing you are using.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hehe, iirc skupples had something similar to what you have pics of with his Norprene tubing when he was using that Primochill Utopia junk in his loop. Terrible stuff that is! IIRC it coated everything in his loop in a white film he first thought was plasticizer too coming from Norprene. lol!
> 
> EDIT:
> Here's a couple posts of his from this thread ...
> 
> I suspect all of your problems you have been blaming on the Advanced LRT are not plasticizer but rather issues related to the Liquid Utopia. Neither Advanced LRT nor Norprene ever have issues with plasticizer. But Liquid Utopia can cause problems that resemble it regardless of what tubing you are using.


[/quote]

I'm thinking I might set up a bit of a test, I'll leave 10cm of tube it straight distilled and another 10cm in distilled with Liquid Utopia and see what happens, I dont have 2 pumps so I cant really set up a proper test but hopefully it will still work lol

If its just the Liquid Utopia doing it then thats ok, I'm switching to a killcoil but I'm not gonna setup my rig again with PrimoChill if its the tube its self

Edit, either way I still dont trust the tube, seen to many posts about PrimoChill plasticizer


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Edit, either way I still dont trust the tube, seen to many posts about PrimoChill plasticizer


You'd just be throwing the baby out with the bathwater then.

There has never been a single issue of anyone using Primochill Advanced having plasticizer problems. Their older Primochill Pro, that's a different story. It had terrible plasticizer issues, so did mastercleer, xspc, koolance,.... just about every brand of flexible tube especially that is also available in colors until Advanced LRT came along.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I can say first hand that the Advanced LRT _does_ have plasticizer, it may be fine with Mayhems dyes and stuff but distilled water it leeches out pretty quick
> 
> 
> 
> No, Advanced LRT does not leech plasticizer. Never ever. Like I said above, you're mistaken somehow.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I can say first hand that the Advanced LRT _does_ have plasticizer, it may be fine with Mayhems dyes and stuff but distilled water it leeches out pretty quick
> 
> 
> 
> I think you mean the OLD primochil LTR... advanced has no plasticizers in them.
Click to expand...

Check the plasticizer thread. Back when they first put the stuff on the market in answer to the Plasticizer issue with LRT or thereabouts. I seriously doubt that anyone here would negatively report an issue that doesn't exist. There is no reason to do so.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> While I agree with Unicorn, it shouldn't leech, it's possible Aussiejuggalo just got a bad batch with a thinner layer of resin inside, which caused him to have issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it was the Liquid Utopia that caused it to leech out or the metal in the barbs, block or rad but still...
> 
> This is the PrimoChill Advanced LRT I bought around the 1st of November 2013 and has run in my rig from the 5th of December 2013 till the 24th of October 2014
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless they changed the tubing between those times the Advanced LRT does have plasticizer, maybe its not as bad as the old stuff but its still there
> 
> Personally I wont be using PrimoChill tubing again, I'll take a more annoying tube setup with Norprene and clamps over a potentially plasticizer filled PrimoChill system
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hehe, iirc skupples had something similar to what you have pics of with his Norprene tubing when he was using that Primochill Utopia junk in his loop. Terrible stuff that is! IIRC it coated everything in his loop in a white film he first thought was plasticizer too coming from Norprene. lol!
> 
> EDIT:
> Here's a couple posts of his from this thread ...
> 
> I suspect all of your problems you have been blaming on the Advanced LRT are not plasticizer but rather issues related to the Liquid Utopia. Neither Advanced LRT nor Norprene ever have issues with plasticizer. But Liquid Utopia can cause problems that resemble it regardless of what tubing you are using.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm thinking I might set up a bit of a test, I'll leave 10cm of tube it straight distilled and another 10cm in distilled with Liquid Utopia and see what happens, I dont have 2 pumps so I cant really set up a proper test but hopefully it will still work lol
> 
> If its just the Liquid Utopia doing it then thats ok, I'm switching to a killcoil but I'm not gonna setup my rig again with PrimoChill if its the tube its self
> 
> Edit, either way I still dont trust the tube, seen to many posts about PrimoChill plasticizer.
Click to expand...

That's what my white LRT looks like. Only it has taken on the color of Patina which means the stuff got into my Radiator. I thoroughly flushed it and it never saw dye. So there is my experience with PrimoChill LRT in a nutshell. Please note that mine is NOT Advanced. It's the LRT stuff. But yours looks a heckuvalot like mine with that gunk coating the interior or my tubing. My average temp runs ~40c and that is just no bueno for any tubing. It's not like my system runs hot. So there was no excuse to see plasticizer leeching. I ran zero additives, no kill coil or aluminum and only ran copper/brass/nickel components. Nothing there warrants leeching imho. Shouldn't happen no matter who makes the tubing.









If the plasticizer IS a heat issue you'd simply be wasting your time because the coolant won't have the same flow and heat conductivity that it would in a loop. It's also been done before in the Plasticizer thread. It really should be tested the way it's normally run rather than soak testing imho.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Edit, either way I still dont trust the tube, seen to many posts about PrimoChill plasticizer
> 
> 
> 
> You'd just be throwing the baby out with the bathwater then.
> 
> There has never been a single issue of anyone using Primochill Advanced having plasticizer problems. Their older Primochill Pro, that's a different story. It had terrible plasticizer issues, so did mastercleer, xspc, koolance,.... just about every brand of flexible tube especially that is also available in colors until Advanced LRT came along.
Click to expand...

Check the plasticizer thread because I've seen people have the clouded tubing they had with LRT. It's NOT impossible. I don't know why a plasticizer issue would be so unbelievable.

I do agree that he would be wasting his time soak testing but it's not because Advanced is free of defect.

~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

Nowhere does Primochill say "plasticiser free", they specify a type of plasticiser. Many people use liquid utopia without any issue.
Personnally I have used both pro and advanced tubing and didn't see a lot of difference between them. I always dug a small ammount of goop out of blocks but it wasn't all that bad even with the pro I had. One of the reasons I went to rigid tubing was to get past that and haven't had the slight buildup since.
Frankly there is too much conflicting evidence to draw any hard conclusions about any of this stuff.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Check the plasticizer thread. Back when they first put the stuff on the market in answer to the Plasticizer issue with LRT or thereabouts. I seriously doubt that anyone here would negatively report an issue that doesn't exist. There is no reason to do so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what my white LRT looks like. Only it has taken on the color of Patina which means the stuff got into my Radiator. I thoroughly flushed it and it never saw dye. So there is my experience with PrimoChill LRT in a nutshell. Please note that mine is NOT Advanced. It's the LRT stuff. But yours looks a heckuvalot like mine with that gunk coating the interior or my tubing. My average temp runs ~40c and that is just no bueno for any tubing. It's not like my system runs hot. So there was no excuse to see plasticizer leeching. I ran zero additives, no kill coil or aluminum and only ran copper/brass/nickel components. Nothing there warrants leeching imho. Shouldn't happen no matter who makes the tubing.


Thats where I first when when looking into watercooling, I wanted to know exactly what could happen with each lot of tubing. My CPU temps on idle were always 35-40° but my room is hot even on a 20° its still close to 30°

Seeing yours was just the LRT it could have a different chemical mix but I doubt it could be that much different, and coz you wernt running anything in your loop thats a bit weird to...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If the plasticizer IS a heat issue you'd simply be wasting your time because the coolant won't have the same flow and heat conductivity that it would in a loop. It's also been done before in the Plasticizer thread. It really should be tested the way it's normally run rather than soak testing imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check the plasticizer thread because I've seen people have the clouded tubing they had with LRT. It's NOT impossible. I don't know why a plasticizer issue would be so unbelievable.
> 
> I do agree that he would be wasting his time soak testing but it's not because Advanced is free of defect.
> 
> ~Ceadder


If it is heat then my 290 could of caused it to leech but still it shouldnt of been that bad, I've only had my 290 for 3 ish months? thats a lot of crap for that amount of time. I dont think people want to believe plasticizer is an issue coz the companys assure people they've "fixed" it lol

Yeah I know soaking them isnt the greatest test but I want to see if its the Liquid Utopia making it worse, I got both lots of tubes out in the sun in air tight containers and I added 30 drops of LU to one of them which should be overkill. I'm more curious then anything
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nowhere does Primochill say "plasticiser free", they specify a type of plasticiser. Many people use liquid utopia without any issue.
> Personnally I have used both pro and advanced tubing and didn't see a lot of difference between them. I always dug a small ammount of goop out of blocks but it wasn't all that bad even with the pro I had. One of the reasons I went to rigid tubing was to get past that and haven't had the slight buildup since.
> Frankly there is too much conflicting evidence to draw any hard conclusions about any of this stuff.


Pretty much any "flexible" tube will have plasticizer even if its a tiny amount, LU is the biocide of choice for most people in Aus (plus it was the only thing we could really get our hands on) and I've seen heaps of people use it without issue which is one of the reasons I went for it

Rigid is tempting right now but would be annoying seeing as I spent close to $70 on all new Bitspower fittings for this rebuild







, I think I'll go Norprene first and see how that goes and if it gives me trouble rigid will be my next choice

Its hard to get decent evidence seeing everyones systems are so different and doing full time testing takes forever


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

How long, or how soon do loops usually start getting plasticicer? I just switched over to Primochill Advanced LTR from rigid tubing. I'm using Mayhem X1 Clear coolant. Just want to know how frequently I should be changing tubing.


----------



## Trestles126

Ok so it's almost done! Picked up a evga supernova 850g2 after reading reviews on the 750nex. Received aquaero 6xt with black faceplate as well as some more fittings. Started leak test tonight and all seems to be going well. Stoked on how it came out. Still need to pick up my ssd's and a HD keyboard and mouse but other than that it's done. Plan on taking better photos with my Nikon when it's finally done. Need to learn how to take them like u pros do!


----------



## Aesonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Ok so it's almost done! Picked up a evga supernova 850g2 after reading reviews on the 750nex. Received aquaero 6xt with black faceplate as well as some more fittings. Started leak test tonight and all seems to be going well. Stoked on how it came out. Still need to pick up my ssd's and a HD keyboard and mouse but other than that it's done. Plan on taking better photos with my Nikon when it's finally done. Need to learn how to take them like u pros do!


That looks pretty really awesome. Nice.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizzmal*
> 
> I just realized that I failed to post my upgraded system:


I was just wondering the other day why I havnt seen more of the plexi-clear single terminal EKFC pieces, I have always been curious how they would look in an SLI setup....

Nice job on all the symmetry and straight lines, that was really important for me on my rig and it took a ton of work, I could only imagine you went through the same.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> How long, or how soon do loops usually start getting plasticicer? I just switched over to Primochill Advanced LTR from rigid tubing. I'm using Mayhem X1 Clear coolant. Just want to know how frequently I should be changing tubing.


Suppose it would depend on your whole setup but no one can know for sure, as a lot of guys said the Advanced _isnt_ ment to get it anywhere near as bad as some brand and types of tube, it seems most people have been lucky with there setups tho

My setup (and the argument the last few pages) could of been to do with the Liquid Utopia or something as simple as a bad batch hence my ghetto test (not that I really trust PrimoChill after looking into there history with tubing but thats just me)

Best thing you could do is if your using a coloured or see through tube just keep and eye on it to see if it goes cloudy

Just my









Edit, I forgot to ask this earlier, does anyone know where to find some pics of the Tygon 1/2" 3/4" A-60-G Norprene bend radius?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Primoderp strikes again..they should merge with Phobya,then we can put all the budget crap under one roof....


----------



## electro2u

It's a drag that there is no "perfect" soft tubing, though. Can't have crystal clear flexible tubing without plasticizer


----------



## brandotip

From DEHP wiki about alternative plasticizers to DEHP..
"
Manufacturers of flexible PVC articles can choose among several alternative plasticizers offering similar technical properties as DEHP. These alternatives include other phthalates such as diisononyl phthalate (DINP), di-2-propyl heptyl phthalate (DPHP), diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP), and non-phthalates such as 1,2-cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid diisononyl ester (DINCH), dioctyl terephthalate (DOTP), and citrate esters."

How's that saying go? The absence of evidence is not the evidence of absence?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Primoderp strikes again..they should merge with Phobya,then we can put all the budget crap under one roof....


So no love for PrimoChill or Phobya?

What the hell parts do you use


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's a drag that there is no "perfect" soft tubing, though. Can't have crystal clear flexible tubing without plasticizer


EK-ZMT is excellent soft tubing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Primoderp strikes again..they should merge with Phobya,then we can put all the budget crap under one roof....
> 
> 
> 
> So no love for PrimoChill or Phobya?
> 
> What the hell parts do you use
Click to expand...

Ones that are much better?
Start with MIPS,Watercool,EK and Aquacomputer and then work backwards from there......

Phobya "fear sh#7",Primoshill and Alphastool are not on that list..


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes, it does. It's made from PVC which is rigid, unless you add plasticiser, that's what makes it flexible. The plasticiser used may not be DEHP but it's still a plasticiser.
> 
> As I said above, the reason _Advanced_ LRT isn't as porous as other tubing, is because of the thicker inner wall which is probably made from some kind of clear resin. They can't make the whole tube out of that resin or it would hardly bend at all. Still some water will get through which is why it eventually clouds like every other flexible PVC tubing.
> 
> While I agree with Unicorn, it shouldn't leech, it's possible Aussiejuggalo just got a bad batch with a thinner layer of resin inside, which caused him to have issues.


Thanks for educating me.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> EK-ZMT is excellent soft tubing


You're kidding, right? That ek-zmt is the worst tubing i have used, not flexible at all (had to cut it to get it off my blocks and they held the same shape after i took them out).

Copper tubing is the only thing for me.


----------



## Aesonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ones that are much better?
> Start with MIPS,Watercool,EK and Aquacomputer and then work backwards from there......
> 
> Phobya "fear sh#7",Primoshill and Alphastool are not on that list..


Ha. Alphastool.

I am using the phobya balancer in my loop and its fine for the price. It's kinda hard to mess up a res. I'm sure there are a few ******ed reserviors out there though.

Alphastool ha


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Primoderp strikes again..they should merge with Phobya,then we can put all the budget crap under one roof....
> 
> 
> 
> So no love for PrimoChill or Phobya?
> 
> What the hell parts do you use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ones that are much better?
> Start with MIPS,Watercool,EK and Aquacomputer and then work backwards from there......
> 
> Phobya "fear sh#7",Primoshill and Alphastool are not on that list..
Click to expand...

Hey, if EK made a 200, I would seriously consider it. But they don't so I cannot mount their 180 to my 200. So I'll use Phobyas 200 in the mean time. Some of their budget stuff is pretty decent though.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Hey guys I need some assistance. I need to suggest a cooling system for a customer. The rig is going to be an ASUS X99-E mobo, and a GTX 980. Budget is high, and while overclocking headroom isn't needed, The customer wants the computer to be extremely quiet. He very much likes the Corsair 900D, but I might have him get something that is dampened.

Can you guys suggest a pump, fans, radiators and a case for him?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys I need some assistance. I need to suggest a cooling system for a customer. The rig is going to be an ASUS X99-E mobo, and a GTX 980. Budget is high, and while overclocking headroom isn't needed, The customer wants the computer to be extremely quiet. He very much likes the Corsair 900D, but I might have him get something that is dampened.
> 
> Can you guys suggest a pump, fans, radiators and a case for him?


d5 + shoggy sandwich for silence, xspc rx v3 rads, fans I would test these if I was buying today: http://www.performance-pcs.com/parvum-systems-f1-0-performance-pressure-optimised-fan-white.html

As for case I would rather go with the Enthoo Primo or a caselabs.

Oh yeah, if you still have the MIPS blocks that would be great. Otherwise the EK supremacy.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys I need some assistance. I need to suggest a cooling system for a customer. The rig is going to be an ASUS X99-E mobo, and a GTX 980. Budget is high, and while overclocking headroom isn't needed, The customer wants the computer to be extremely quiet. He very much likes the Corsair 900D, but I might have him get something that is dampened.
> 
> 
> Can you guys suggest a pump, fans, radiators and a case for him?


XSPC V3 RX 360, Corsair 120mm SP Quiet Ed, I have the 750D and Its quiet, Don't see why the 900D wouldn't work. Can't Recommend a pump other than the D5 Vario 270 XSPC Combo. I have yet to get my hands on the swiftech pump DDC that I have ordered for my brothers build. My Cpu Is super quiet though







Good Luck


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd be looking more towards the Noctua SP fans or NoiseBlockers







also still getting good results from my B Gears Blasters, extremely quiet especially compared to the Delta 120's I have as well lol


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ones that are much better?
> Start with MIPS,Watercool,EK and Aquacomputer and then work backwards from there......
> 
> Phobya "fear sh#7",Primoshill and Alphastool are not on that list..


Here in OZ these brands are extremely expensive, NOT just a bit I mean a ton more. The only place I know of is from Aquatuning, which I have to re-mortgage my house every visit.

Is Koolance on the buy or not buy list ?


----------



## tengtium

just upgrade my sarah..

new psu, cpu block and motherboard.

ASUS Z87 Maximus Formula VI with Free Watchdog (literally).. lol biggrin.gif



need to cut the motherboard tray so that i can fit the psu at the back when the shroud already installed. because i don't have (UN)Designs Z2 holder for my reservoir i created a acrylic holder to mount it in my radiator.



psu shroud already finished. need to find where to put the holes for my pump and for gpu pci-e cable.



now all the holes cut.



put some fittings..

for pump



for radiator



for cpu block and motheboard



for reservoir



and gpu



putting all loop together by installing the tube.



put some simple drainage system at the radiator..



skip the leak test video because soo excited to boot the rig.biggrin.gif

add some acrylic sheet to hold the hard drive at the side of the radiator. and do fair cable management at the back.



... now..

the finish product..



hope you enjoy it.

thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys I need some assistance. I need to suggest a cooling system for a customer. The rig is going to be an ASUS X99-E mobo, and a GTX 980. Budget is high, and while overclocking headroom isn't needed, The customer wants the computer to be extremely quiet. He very much likes the Corsair 900D, but I might have him get something that is dampened.
> 
> Can you guys suggest a pump, fans, radiators and a case for him?


im expecting my nanoxia deep silence 6 to be VERY quiet. this case is a monster and filled with sound damping mat.
supports a 420 in the roof and a 280 in the front


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im expecting my nanoxia deep silence 6 to be VERY quiet. this case is a monster and filled with sound damping mat.
> supports a 420 in the roof and a 280 in the front


I have the ds1 and it is a good silent case. Are they selling in US? Had to import from Germany more than a year ago.


----------



## pc-illiterate

$250 shipped from newegg.com


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys I need some assistance. I need to suggest a cooling system for a customer. The rig is going to be an ASUS X99-E mobo, and a GTX 980. Budget is high, and while overclocking headroom isn't needed, The customer wants the computer to be extremely quiet. He very much likes the Corsair 900D, but I might have him get something that is dampened.
> 
> Can you guys suggest a pump, fans, radiators and a case for him?


The 900D can be dampened easily, back when I had it (5-6 months ago) I had purchased some sound dampening material and put it up in appropriate locations after the innards are all done- turned out pretty effective even without a permanent installation done.

As suggested above, D5 is still king for low noise (although that MCP50x tuned down is pretty good too). Based on my tests with the NB Eloops, I'd go XSPC RXV3/HWL Nemesis GTS/GTX for rads (new things come up all the time but at this point based on my tests these are what I would recommend) with B12-3 fans on fan controllers.


----------



## phillyd

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I suggested the following:
XSPC RX480 V3
Noiseblocker E-Loop 800RPM (x8)
EK D5 pump
Corsair 900D w/dampening material.

Should work out well. +rep


----------



## Jakewat

@B NEGATIVE
Loving the photos. You have probably been asked before, but what camera do you use and do you edit your photos?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> Loving the photos. You have probably been asked before, but what camera do you use and do you edit your photos?


I use a Canon 350d and do some post processing,mainly for colour balance and exposure.
It's more about lighting rather than camera tho.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ones that are much better?
> Start with MIPS,Watercool,EK and Aquacomputer and then work backwards from there......
> 
> Phobya "fear sh#7",Primoshill and Alphastool are not on that list..


What about Bitspower









Like ginger_nuts a lot of that stuff is over priced is Aus and ordering from FrozenCPU or Performance PCs is amazingly expensive (For a single hose clamp with decent shipping it costs $40, $34 of which is shipping







) so we are a bit limited in what we can use

For a few years we couldnt get anything apart from Liquid Utopia hence why most of use use it but now our shops are stocking Mayhems Biocide and killcoils







, still need to order from overseas for decent and or matching tubes, barbs etc tho









In other news I'm thinking of ordering my Norprene tube and some hose clamps...



Will the clamps be enough to hold the tube in place on my current Bitspower barbs?


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Primoderp strikes again..they should merge with Phobya,then we can put all the budget crap under one roof....


Please don forget the Koolance dog poop QDC 3 & 4 black. There is a club here


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Please don forget the Koolance dog poop QDC 3 & 4 black. There is a club here


Why just the black ones?


----------



## pc-illiterate

juggie, i love those clamps. just too expensive for me when no one, including me, will see them.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> What about Bitspower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [
> Like ginger_nuts a lot of that stuff is over priced is Aus and ordering from FrozenCPU or Performance PCs is amazingly expensive (For a single hose clamp with decent shipping it costs $40, $34 of which is shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so we are a bit limited in what we can use
> 
> For a few years we couldnt get anything apart from Liquid Utopia hence why most of use use it but now our shops are stocking Mayhems Biocide and killcoils
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , still need to order from overseas for decent and or matching tubes, barbs etc tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news I'm thinking of ordering my Norprene tube and some hose clamps...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will the clamps be enough to hold the tube in place on my current Bitspower barbs?


I used those clamps with Masterclear tube and XSPC barbs they hold super good with that combo.
I would be inclined to get compression fittings unless clearance is an issue the reason I used them the reason being aluminum does easily cross thread.
I think there should be a improvisation club for people like us that have limited liquid cooling retailers.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> juggie, i love those clamps. just too expensive for me when no one, including me, will see them.


Yeah I know there expensive but I dont really take chances (got rid of the rest of my Primochill tube just in case of more problems







), if I need to buy $5 clamps to keep the tube on I will & they should blend into my build nice hopefully
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I used those clamps with Masterclear tube and XSPC barbs they hold super good with that combo.
> I would be inclined to get compression fittings unless clearance is an issue the reason I used them the reason being aluminum does easily cross thread.
> I think there should be a improvisation club for people like us that have limited liquid cooling retailers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cool







, hope there as good for Norprene

If I hadnt already bought heaps of barbs a couple of months ago I would of gotten compressions but I've already spent $70 or something on barbs and fittings lol (plus compressions wouldnt really go with my build)

I just want them (or screw down clamps like them) so I can be 100% sure I wont have leaks, the cheaper clamps I dont really like the look of, to easy to come off for me personally


----------



## feznz

you can get those clamps from Bunnings in the garden section those clamps are actually really hard to undo if you use pliers to do them up, that's where I got my first pvc hose for my very first loop.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> you can get those clamps from Bunnings in the garden section those clamps are actually really hard to undo if you use pliers to do them up, that's where I got my first pvc hose for my very first loop.


Yeah I seen bunnings had some of the normal plastic clamps and also metal Loc-Sure ones, I may get some and see how they go

I just dont know how the Norprene will go with each lot of clamps, suppose I could order the tube from FrozenCPU then if need be buy the Bitspower clamps from PCCG


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ones that are much better?
> Start with MIPS,Watercool,EK and Aquacomputer and then work backwards from there......
> 
> Phobya "fear sh#7",Primoshill and Alphastool are not on that list..
> 
> 
> 
> What about Bitspower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like ginger_nuts a lot of that stuff is over priced is Aus and ordering from FrozenCPU or Performance PCs is amazingly expensive (For a single hose clamp with decent shipping it costs $40, $34 of which is shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so we are a bit limited in what we can use
> 
> For a few years we couldnt get anything apart from Liquid Utopia hence why most of use use it but now our shops are stocking Mayhems Biocide and killcoils
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , still need to order from overseas for decent and or matching tubes, barbs etc tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news I'm thinking of ordering my Norprene tube and some hose clamps...
> 
> 
> 
> Will the clamps be enough to hold the tube in place on my current Bitspower barbs?
Click to expand...

Bitspower are amazing,this not in question.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower are amazing,this not in question.


Yes, yes they are

The barbs I have are super tight with 7/16" tube









Edit, I thought $3 a foot for that tube was expensive then I found some in Aus... $21.50 per meter







talk about getting ripped off huh?


----------



## p5ych00n5

About to receive a 7970 block, reference of course, except my card isn't reference, my bad for not making sure. But does anyone have any experience modding a reference block to fit a non-reference card?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower are *overpriced*, this not in question.


Fixed that for you.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower are *overpriced*, this not in question.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed that for you.
Click to expand...

Who cares how much they cost . . . .

You buy them for the reliability and track record.

I've used hundreds and hundreds of bitspower fittings, and had exactly 1 of them leak, . . . ever.

Except for specific applications where there isn't a BP fitting available, I wouldn't ever use anything else . . it's just false economy to risk a hi end build over a comparatively few dollars saved in fittings..

Darlene


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Who cares how much they cost . . . .
> 
> You buy them for the reliability and track record.
> 
> I've used hundreds and hundreds of bitspower fittings, and had exactly 1 of them leak, . . . ever.
> 
> Except for specific applications where there isn't a BP fitting available, I wouldn't ever use anything else . . it's just false economy to risk a hi end build over a comparatively few dollars saved in fittings..
> 
> Darlene


In Switzerland it is really hard to find Bitspower stuff at all








Plus if you order something in another country, the taxes are really high (minimum 28 USD)
The only watercooling supplier is Aquatuning, no other watercooling stores


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Who cares how much they cost . . . .
> You buy them for the reliability and track record.
> I've used hundreds and hundreds of bitspower fittings, and had exactly 1 of them leak, . . . ever.
> Except for specific applications where there isn't a BP fitting available, I wouldn't ever use anything else . . it's just false economy to risk a hi end build over a comparatively few dollars saved in fittings..
> Darlene


Darlene is exactly right. I almost always recommend Bitspower. They are more robust and easier to work with as well than most other brands.


----------



## Buehlar

Yep...I'm gonna drop a big load of spam over in here too


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yep...I'm gonna drop a big load of spam over in here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: BleuBlancRouge


Coming from Montréal I really like the colors







I like how it looks like a sound system.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yep...I'm gonna drop a big load of spam over in here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful bench you've got there! Great work


----------



## Blackops_2

Camera work isn't very good, but can't expect much from a phone with little to no ambient light. Either way it's my first and it's finally done. Really surprised and stoked by the temps. Next will be finishing Green Envy. The paper towel below that stop fitting on the bottom of the res was due to a small leak i had after it passed the 24hrs of leak testing. I turned it off and it started leaking. Tightened it up and it has been fine since. Ran it all day yesterday and today.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Who cares how much they cost . . . .
> 
> You buy them for the reliability and track record.
> 
> I've used hundreds and hundreds of bitspower fittings, and had exactly 1 of them leak, . . . ever.
> 
> Except for specific applications where there isn't a BP fitting available, I wouldn't ever use anything else . . it's just false economy to risk a hi end build over a comparatively few dollars saved in fittings..
> 
> Darlene


lol, I care how much they cost.







I never discredited their qc. Right now they own the fitting marketplace and charge a premium because of it. There are other manufacturers with just as good if not better qc that stay competitive with each other price wise. In the end when these other manufacturers step up their game and offer more fittings the difference in price will be enough to make a big difference without sacrificing quality.







It would be interesting to know who their OEM is though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Who cares how much they cost . . . .
> 
> You buy them for the reliability and track record.
> 
> I've used hundreds and hundreds of bitspower fittings, and had exactly 1 of them leak, . . . ever.
> 
> Except for specific applications where there isn't a BP fitting available, I wouldn't ever use anything else . . it's just false economy to risk a hi end build over a comparatively few dollars saved in fittings..
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> lol, I care how much they cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never discredited their qc. Right now they own the fitting marketplace and charge a premium because of it. There are other manufacturers with just as good if not better qc that stay competitive with each other price wise. In the end when these other manufacturers step up their game and offer more fittings the difference in price will be enough to make a big difference without sacrificing quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be interesting to know who their OEM is though.
Click to expand...

They have their own tooling and manufacture plant,rarely do fittings have an OEM.

Bitspower charge like they do because....quite frankly....they can. Quality costs.

I will say,I hated the EK CSQ fittings but they have grown on me...I hope they stay that way when they actually go in to the rig...


----------



## Vintage

They have the best fittings and the best looks IMO. They are worth the premium to me. Also, some of their silver and black sparkle hardline fittings are actually very reasonable.

I just wish they would make some imperial size hardline fittings instead of only metric. There are not a lot of options in terms of metric tubing. I've never seen PETG tubing in metric here in the states.


----------



## dervladimir

Some new photos&#8230; Coolgate 360x60 on top... installed SSD/HDD:


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Really dumb question, would Norprene 7/16" ID / 9/16" OD be usable the same way normal 7/16" tube is (straight on the barb, no clamp) or would it come off?

Just curious


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Darlene is exactly right. I almost always recommend Bitspower. They are more robust and easier to work with as well than most other brands.


I'm amazed Phill you ask OCN for their part suggestion







... doesn't PPC has a custom build department ? it just feels flattering that a store rep asks for advise here









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yep...I'm gonna drop a big load of spam over in here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Colors are not my flavor. but the job on arranging everything is well done. If it was a one/bi color scheme i would have loved it more.. but .. For each his own







.. good job


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I'm amazed Phill you ask OCN for their part suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... doesn't PPC has a custom build department ? it just feels flattering that a store rep asks for advise here


We do have a custom builder in-house but I don't work in the facility so I didn't want to bug him. I would've known, but I've never really organized a silent build so I didn't know what to suggest. You guys are some of the most knowledgeable people about water cooling out there


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I'm amazed Phill you ask OCN for their part suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... doesn't PPC has a custom build department ? it just feels flattering that a store rep asks for advise here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We do have a custom builder in-house but I don't work in the facility so I didn't want to bug him. I would've known, but I've never really organized a silent build so I didn't know what to suggest. You guys are some of the most knowledgeable people about water cooling out there
Click to expand...

Silence = Money

Look at Be Quiet fans,low FPI rads and isolated D5's.
Acoustimat is great stuff also.

You want a case with minimal filtration as this causes the most noise,cut away fan mesh etc if you can and have open blow holes.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yep...I'm gonna drop a big load of spam over in here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys I need some assistance. I need to suggest a cooling system for a customer. The rig is going to be an ASUS X99-E mobo, and a GTX 980. Budget is high, and while overclocking headroom isn't needed, The customer wants the computer to be extremely quiet. He very much likes the Corsair 900D, but I might have him get something that is dampened.
> 
> Can you guys suggest a pump, fans, radiators and a case for him?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I suggested the following:
> XSPC RX480 V3
> Noiseblocker E-Loop 800RPM (x8)
> EK D5 pump
> Corsair 900D w/dampening material.
> 
> Should work out well. +rep


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I'm amazed Phill you ask OCN for their part suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... doesn't PPC has a custom build department ? it just feels flattering that a store rep asks for advise here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We do have a custom builder in-house but I don't work in the facility so I didn't want to bug him. I would've known, but I've never really organized a silent build so I didn't know what to suggest. You guys are some of the most knowledgeable people about water cooling out there
Click to expand...

I would suggest the latest HAF case. You can orient the 915 portion top or bottom and you can get two 360s's in there. Leaving the main portion for all the WC'ing goodness. 900D is a great case but look at the price for one of those. It's nearly double that of the CM case and the CM case is a bit more flexible imho. If I replace the 932 with another FT, I would want something that I can build to suit my needs rather than aesthetically. That's just me. If you want quietness then go with Gentle Typhoons as well. With two 360's in that 915 you can stuff 12 of them in P/P intaking one side and exhausting the other w/o much in the way of modification if at all.









Oh an I have to say that while the D5 will push more, that 2 or 3 DDCs' will do just as well and are quieter. If you put a Bay Res w/DDC and mount a Dual DDC block, it should be powerful enough to cool everything and fit the needs of the customer. I rarely EVER hear my DDCs'(2) with the case atop my desk. With D5 you gotta spend a bit to get the same reliability in that department.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yep...I'm gonna drop a big load of spam over in here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys I need some assistance. I need to suggest a cooling system for a customer. The rig is going to be an ASUS X99-E mobo, and a GTX 980. Budget is high, and while overclocking headroom isn't needed, The customer wants the computer to be extremely quiet. He very much likes the Corsair 900D, but I might have him get something that is dampened.
> 
> Can you guys suggest a pump, fans, radiators and a case for him?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I suggested the following:
> XSPC RX480 V3
> Noiseblocker E-Loop 800RPM (x8)
> EK D5 pump
> Corsair 900D w/dampening material.
> 
> Should work out well. +rep
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I'm amazed Phill you ask OCN for their part suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... doesn't PPC has a custom build department ? it just feels flattering that a store rep asks for advise here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We do have a custom builder in-house but I don't work in the facility so I didn't want to bug him. I would've known, but I've never really organized a silent build so I didn't know what to suggest. You guys are some of the most knowledgeable people about water cooling out there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *I would suggest the latest HAF case.* You can orient the 915 portion top or bottom and you can get two 360s's in there. Leaving the main portion for all the WC'ing goodness. 900D is a great case but look at the price for one of those. It's nearly double that of the CM case and the CM case is a bit more flexible imho. If I replace the 932 with another FT, I would want something that I can build to suit my needs rather than aesthetically. That's just me. If you want quietness then go with Gentle Typhoons as well. With two 360's in that 915 you can stuff 12 of them in P/P intaking one side and exhausting the other w/o much in the way of modification if at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh an I have to say that while the D5 will push more, that 2 or 3 DDCs' will do just as well and are quieter. If you put a Bay Res w/DDC and mount a Dual DDC block, it should be powerful enough to cool everything and fit the needs of the customer. I rarely EVER hear my DDCs'(2) with the case atop my desk. With D5 you gotta spend a bit to get the same reliability in that department.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Just No.

If the guy has eyes,No.


----------



## Ramzinho

i agree with B.. i never liked the looks of the Haf series.. just looks too aggressive. and over all not my flavor as well.


----------



## BranField

Currently leak testing my first ever watercooling build. i'm happy as larry (larry is known to be a pretty cheerfull guy) that there are no leaks as yet (4hours in) and looking forward to checking out the results of all this hard work.



Also, my drain port assembaly work really well.


----------



## VSG

You are good to go then. Just keep an eye out for possibly expanded/loosened tubing once the loop has experienced heat (really doesn't happen anymore with compression fittings but doesn't hurt to check) and have fun!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> Currently leak testing my first ever watercooling build. i'm happy as larry (larry is known to be a pretty cheerfull guy) that there are no leaks as yet (4hours in) and looking forward to checking out the results of all this hard work.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my drain port assembaly work really well.


well done.. love the white theme


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yep...I'm gonna drop a big load of spam over in here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys I need some assistance. I need to suggest a cooling system for a customer. The rig is going to be an ASUS X99-E mobo, and a GTX 980. Budget is high, and while overclocking headroom isn't needed, The customer wants the computer to be extremely quiet. He very much likes the Corsair 900D, but I might have him get something that is dampened.
> 
> Can you guys suggest a pump, fans, radiators and a case for him?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I suggested the following:
> XSPC RX480 V3
> Noiseblocker E-Loop 800RPM (x8)
> EK D5 pump
> Corsair 900D w/dampening material.
> 
> Should work out well. +rep
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I'm amazed Phill you ask OCN for their part suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... doesn't PPC has a custom build department ? it just feels flattering that a store rep asks for advise here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We do have a custom builder in-house but I don't work in the facility so I didn't want to bug him. I would've known, but I've never really organized a silent build so I didn't know what to suggest. You guys are some of the most knowledgeable people about water cooling out there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *I would suggest the latest HAF case.* You can orient the 915 portion top or bottom and you can get two 360s's in there. Leaving the main portion for all the WC'ing goodness. 900D is a great case but look at the price for one of those. It's nearly double that of the CM case and the CM case is a bit more flexible imho. If I replace the 932 with another FT, I would want something that I can build to suit my needs rather than aesthetically. That's just me. If you want quietness then go with Gentle Typhoons as well. With two 360's in that 915 you can stuff 12 of them in P/P intaking one side and exhausting the other w/o much in the way of modification if at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh an I have to say that while the D5 will push more, that 2 or 3 DDCs' will do just as well and are quieter. If you put a Bay Res w/DDC and mount a Dual DDC block, it should be powerful enough to cool everything and fit the needs of the customer. I rarely EVER hear my DDCs'(2) with the case atop my desk. With D5 you gotta spend a bit to get the same reliability in that department.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just No.
> 
> If the guy has eyes,No.
Click to expand...

HAF series ain't for everybody. That much is true. But with a good mod, it *can* be. lol

I think that alot of this comes down to looks and imagination. 900D is getting overplayed imho, which is why I suggested the new HAF. With the price of acrylic coming down, you can even redesign the face so it doesn't look so aggressive and you can get filters that will stick to the side to keep things tidy between maintenance cycles.

Heck if sheer size is your goal I would go Caselabs over Corsair. But that's gonna cost more. But we're talking quietness an there aren't too many cases that are as blah as 900D in overall looks. So maybe he wants what I consider to be a case w/o imagination. I don't believe HAF is gawdy at all. But it's not for everybody.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I can appreciate your stance but Philly wanted minimal modding,iirc...

Cases are subjective,one man's horror is another man's....problem.










You getting the new one?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can appreciate your stance but Philly wanted minimal modding,iirc...
> 
> Cases are subjective,one man's horror is another man's....problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You getting the new one?


On it to finish up the 932 build atm.

Once I do that I may get the 935, but I'm also torn between a FT or Mini ITX build. So we shall see.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Coming from Montréal I really like the colors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it looks like a sound system.


Thanks








As long s it looks like "something other than a computer", then I'm very happy to have met my goals








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Beautiful bench you've got there! Great work


Thak you sir








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Colors are not my flavor. but the job on arranging everything is well done. If it was a one/bi color scheme i would have loved it more.. but .. For each his own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. good job


Thanks man. That's cool, can you tell me more about your color flavors? I need to come up with something for the next upgrade. I think it looks kinda cool for now but I'm all about tryng new things. It'll stay as is through the holidays but 2011 platform will soon follow








It was red & white before upgrading the GPUs.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They have their own tooling and manufacture plant,rarely do fittings have an OEM.
> 
> Bitspower charge like they do because....quite frankly....they can. Quality costs.
> 
> I will say,I hated the EK CSQ fittings but they have grown on me...I hope they stay that way when they actually go in to the rig...


Interesting they manufacture their own fittings. Over the years I've come to see that most companies outsource at least some parts and rebrand them for max profits.

Bitspower has a chokehold on the fitting market as their rotary and fitting selection by far is the most comprehensive, so like you and I both said they charge what they want. Me personally do not like the knurled look on the fittings and prefer the fluted look aesthetically. Heres to hoping Ek pulls through on their fittings with a competitive price point. Monsoon rotaries are very well built also, but unfortunately their selection isn't very expansive.


----------



## VSG

Thoughts on the paint job? Ignore the CPU block for now (probably will have EK Supremacy Evo with red plexi top and white pastel coolant)









Slight backstory- this is for the reverse ATX side in the TX10-D build ongoing (link in sig). It is for my girlfriend who does a lot of brain research. So I got a brain model 3D printed, used it to etch the patterns you see and then am considering having it mounted somewhere in there- either on the motherboard itself or reservoir maybe. Not a 100% sure on that paint job though (was aiming for a brain matter finish), and I may even paint the MOSFET block as well if I end up going with this design.


----------



## Vintage

Damnnn looks sweet! Did you paint it?

That's one lucky girl xD


----------



## electro2u

I was thinking Hawaiian flower motif but then the brain thingy appeared and mine clued in. I love it!


----------



## royce5950

You should have removed the screws before painting the EK block. You should take the screws off the EK block and recoat them black. That would look cleaner. And get a new EK badge for it. Then the whole thing would look A+ imo


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> EK-ZMT is excellent soft tubing


I agree!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> You're kidding, right? That ek-zmt is the worst tubing i have used, not flexible at all (had to cut it to get it off my blocks and they held the same shape after i took them out).
> 
> Copper tubing is the only thing for me.


Huh? I haven't had a tube more flexible than ZMT. It's rubbery, you can make a 3 inch diameter circle out of the stuff without it kinking. I've used LRT Pro, LRT Advanced, and a couple other clear flexible tubes. Your opinion on the flexibility of ZMT, I imagine, is in the minority. If not the only single opinion (that I have seen at least) to consider it stiff.

Plus that matte black is tight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The top picture reminds me of a Salvadore Dali painting.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They have their own tooling and manufacture plant,rarely do fittings have an OEM.
> 
> Bitspower charge like they do because....quite frankly....they can. Quality costs.
> 
> I will say,I hated the EK CSQ fittings but they have grown on me...I hope they stay that way when they actually go in to the rig...


I used to absolutly hate them as well but after seeing them in a couple of users builds and some wicked photography in Buildlogs like yours in second guessing if I should order Bitspower or EK fittings..


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok Guys. Little poll here. What looks best the black acetal bridge (FC Terminal plexi + white fittings) on the nickel+pleki tops or the all clear plexi (bridge and blocks) with white fittings? The liquid for the GPU blocks will be dark grey like the first picture.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Right well I'm about to be poor



The clamps and tube better be worth it lol


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I was thinking Hawaiian flower motif but then the brain thingy appeared and mine clued in. I love it!


Had no idea what the Hawaiian flower motif was till now, but I definitely see the inspiration from it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Damnnn looks sweet! Did you paint it?
> 
> That's one lucky girl xD


Yeah, did that today. Hopefully she likes it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> You should have removed the screws before painting the EK block. You should take the screws off the EK block and recoat them black. That would look cleaner. And get a new EK badge for it. Then the whole thing would look A+ imo


The fans and badge were a conscious decision. I had previously removed the screws from the block but wasn't a big fan of the break in random spots personally. As far as the badge goes, yeah I am still in two minds about it. On one hand there will be plenty of EK logos throughout and on the other that bump isn't very pleasing as is without the GPU installed. I will get some spare logos and see. Thanks!


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> You should have removed the screws before painting the EK block. You should take the screws off the EK block and recoat them black. That would look cleaner. And get a new EK badge for it. Then the whole thing would look A+ imo
> 
> 
> 
> The fans and badge were a conscious decision. I had previously removed the screws from the block but wasn't a big fan of the break in random spots personally. As far as the badge goes, yeah I am still in two minds about it. On one hand there will be plenty of EK logos throughout and on the other that bump isn't very pleasing as is without the GPU installed. I will get some spare logos and see. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Do you see how it somewhat also resembles Van halens red and white guitar?

All in all I like it, But if you dont like the look of the screws black, what about white or silver?


----------



## VSG

Lol I see the resemblance now.

I will try white and see, thanks again and +1


----------



## gdubc

The Parvum Alpenföhn fans are up on PPCS. At $20 a fan, it's cheaper for me to just get the actual Alpenföhns from OCUK tho


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The Parvum Alpenföhn fans are up on PPCS. At $20 a fan, it's cheaper for me to just get the actual Alpenföhns from OCUK tho


You'd probably get them quicker too LoL, every time I order from PPCs it seems to take forever to get my order. But I ordered 8 Gentle Typhoon AP-15's from Aquatunig they shipped from Germany and were at my door in less than 48 hours and shipping cost $5.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Huh? I haven't had a tube more flexible than ZMT. It's rubbery, you can make a 3 inch diameter circle out of the stuff without it kinking. I've used LRT Pro, LRT Advanced, and a couple other clear flexible tubes. Your opinion on the flexibility of ZMT, I imagine, is in the minority. If not the only single opinion (that I have seen at least) to consider it stiff.
> 
> Plus that matte black is tight.


Then you and I have two totally different stories to tell about the EK-ZMT tubing.


Spoiler: take a look here





Let's face it, that's c'rap!











I have used Tygon R3603 before, this is good tubing (beside that green-ish coating on the inside of the tubing), seems to be fairly the same as the Advanced LRT that I have now. The EK-ZMT I got is nowhere near that flexible, it is stiff, cheap and does not go well with my BP 3/8"-5/8" compressions, no more EK tubing for me.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long s it looks like "something other than a computer", then I'm very happy to have met my goals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thak you sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man. That's cool, can you tell me more about your color flavors? I need to come up with something for the next upgrade. I think it looks kinda cool for now but I'm all about tryng new things. It'll stay as is through the holidays but 2011 platform will soon follow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was red & white before upgrading the GPUs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i'm more of a theme guy. like White and red, black and blue.. just having more than two colors isn't my flavor. i can see this being a Red black themed build due to the nature of the fittings and the rads


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Then you and I have two totally different stories to tell about the EK-ZMT tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: take a look here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's face it, that's c'rap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have used Tygon R3603 before, this is good tubing (beside that green-ish coating on the inside of the tubing), seems to be fairly the same as the Advanced LRT that I have now. The EK-ZMT I got is nowhere near that flexible, it is stiff, cheap and does not go well with my BP 3/8"-5/8" compressions, no more EK tubing for me.


it might be a dry patch. or it has been stored in the sun.. rubber doesn't like being stored in the sun.. it gets dry.. but over all this looks nasty


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> it might be a dry patch. or it has been stored in the sun.. rubber doesn't like being stored in the sun.. it gets dry.. but over all this looks nasty


If the tubing is supposed to be very flexible there is something wrong with the tubing I got, I do not know how it is stored though, I used it in my loop the day I got them so they are certainly not exposed to any sun in my possession. Only used DI water with it too, so there should be no problem on that part either. Still using it between my MO-RA3's and to my computer (wont change them out either), because then I have to drain my radiators and stuff (draining two MO-RA3 420s take some time). It is tight and that is what matter used in that circumstance.


----------



## ThornTwist

I'm currently looking into a water loop and don't know the first thing about how to do it. I am doing this now because if there is ever a time where my newly arriving ASUS GTX 980 STRIX gets a water block made for it I will be putting my whole system underwater. Does anyone know where I can get started?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> I'm currently looking into a water loop and don't know the first thing about how to do it. I am doing this now because if there is ever a time where my newly arriving ASUS GTX 980 STRIX gets a water block made for it I will be putting my whole system underwater. Does anyone know where I can get started?


Best place to start is with a kit, they give you everything you need to cool the CPU and most can be expanded to include a GPU waterblock.

*Frozencpu.com* is a great place to shop for water cooling parts! Here is a *LINK* to their page for water cooling kits

I'd also use this thread and other water cooling threads on here as a resource, ask questions and spend lots of time planning out the loop. Don't just slap in together like I did my first loop, because you'll be less than satisfied with how it looks even if it works great.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> I'm currently looking into a water loop and don't know the first thing about how to do it. I am doing this now because if there is ever a time where my newly arriving ASUS GTX 980 STRIX gets a water block made for it I will be putting my whole system underwater. Does anyone know where I can get started?


You just got started in the right spot. you simlpy need to start reading and asking questions?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> I'm currently looking into a water loop and don't know the first thing about how to do it. I am doing this now because if there is ever a time where my newly arriving ASUS GTX 980 STRIX gets a water block made for it I will be putting my whole system underwater. Does anyone know where I can get started?


http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling-essential-threads/

^ That would be as good a place to start as any


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling-essential-threads/
> 
> ^ That would be as good a place to start as any


Wow that's a lot of info in one place


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Best place to start is with a kit, they give you everything you need to cool the CPU and most can be expanded to include a GPU waterblock.
> 
> *Frozencpu.com* is a great place to shop for water cooling parts! Here is a *LINK* to their page for water cooling kits
> 
> I'd also use this thread and other water cooling threads on here as a resource, ask questions and spend lots of time planning out the loop. Don't just slap in together like I did my first loop, because you'll be less than satisfied with how it looks even if it works great.


I actually found that site a little while ago looking for a STRIX water board and they didn't have any







But yeah, great site! I will probably be buying form them, they have everything. Kinda curious as to what the specific procedure is for assembling everything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> You just got started in the right spot. you simlpy need to start reading and asking questions?


Great! First thing I want to ask is what Kid would you guys recomend. I have a new build that I haven't updated to my rig selection yet, but Its a pretty good system. Here's what I got. Just read the OP of this thread.

Looks like I got Ninjaed. Well I would prefer to use this thread since I stated here and there will be some rep along the way if its ok to use this thread instead. Is that ok?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> I actually found that site a little while ago looking for a STRIX water board and they didn't have any
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, great site! I will probably be buying form them, they have everything. Kinda curious as to what the specific procedure is for assembling everything.
> Great! First thing I want to ask is what Kid would you guys recomend. I have a new build that I haven't updated to my rig selection yet, but Its a pretty good system. Here's what I got. Just read the OP of this thread.
> 
> Looks like I got Ninjaed. Well I would prefer to use this thread since I stated here and there will be some rep along the way if its ok to use this thread instead. Is that ok?


You'll need a minimum of 360mm of rad surface for a CPU & GPU.
I'm not familiar with the NZXT 4400 and It's water cooling capabilities, but if it will occupy a 360 rad then most any kit within your budget would suffice.

As for the GPU block, I'm not so sure that the STRIX will be getting a block anytime soon, if at all.
You can inquire in the EK water block club for confirmation on expected availability.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> You'll need a minimum of 360mm of rad surface for a CPU & GPU.
> I'm not familiar with the NZXT 4400 and It's water cooling capabilities, but if it will occupy a 360 rad then most any kit within your budget would suffice.
> 
> As for the GPU block, I'm not so sure that the STRIX will be getting a block anytime soon, if at all.
> You can inquire in the EK water block club for confirmation on expected availability.


Thanks, REP. Pretty much what I figured concerning the STRIX, that is unfortunate I'll check that forum to see if they have anything planned. No I have to ask about color. I have a white case and I would like the interior to be primarily white with some black and a little red sprinkled in. Possibly the only thing that will be red is the wire sleeves. I've gone with yellow and back for a build that didn't last long and blue and black which is what I have currently but I'm thinking mostly white with black and red for this build. Any suggestions on something like this? Possibly thinking white tubes.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> Thanks, REP. Pretty much what I figured concerning the STRIX, that is unfortunate I'll check that forum to see if they have anything planned. No I have to ask about color. I have a white case and I would like the interior to be primarily white with some black and a little red sprinkled in. Possibly the only thing that will be red is the wire sleeves. I've gone with yellow and back for a build that didn't last long and blue and black which is what I have currently but I'm thinking mostly white with black and red for this build. Any suggestions on something like this? Possibly thinking white tubes.


White tubes, red fittings perhaps? Depending on if you're going for flexible or rigid tubing. Does coloured tubing and/or coolant interest you?


----------



## ThornTwist

So yeah, I think I'm going custom water loop for this build. Based on my build what do you guys think I should spend? I am wondering what a good price ratio would be.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> White tubes, red fittings perhaps? Depending on if you're going for flexible or rigid tubing. Does coloured cooling and/or coolant interest you?


I'm leaning away form colored fluid for the time being but I could change my mind if the reasons were good.


----------



## bond32

Quadfire 290x's all running.... Time to pull some juice!


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quadfire 290x's all running.... Time to pull some juice!


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> Thanks, REP. Pretty much what I figured concerning the STRIX, that is unfortunate I'll check that forum to see if they have anything planned. No I have to ask about color. I have a white case and I would like the interior to be primarily white with some black and a little red sprinkled in. Possibly the only thing that will be red is the wire sleeves. I've gone with yellow and back for a build that didn't last long and blue and black which is what I have currently but I'm thinking mostly white with black and red for this build. Any suggestions on something like this? Possibly thinking white tubes.


You're on your own with color options bud. Ask that question here and you'll get a million opinions.
Whatever you choose, trust me, someone is gonna hate it. Just show your own personality and you'll get plenty of love


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quadfire 290x's all running.... Time to pull some juice!


Quadfire 290 x's, that's awesome dude. Sorry can't get over this build. Its dope. Words do not do the picture justice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> You're on your own with color options bud. Ask that question here and you'll get a million opinions.
> Whatever you choose, trust me, someone is gonna hate it. Just show your own personality and you'll get plenty of love


I think I'm going soft tubs simply because they are easier to work with and this is my first time doing a custom water loop or any water loop for that matter other than the H70, but c'mon that doesn't really count. I'm thinking maybe alternating between black and red fittings to go with my white tubes. I still have to figure out if I can still buy a kit that will give me most of what I need, unless it would be cheaper to buy everything separate. I don't know if it is or not. If they have white painted pumps I would put all red fittings on, but I don't know if that is an option. That's the way I think would look cool though. Here is a pic of the case I bought so people can see it.



IDK, looks kind of small inside, might not be able to go full custom loop. What do you guys think?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> Sorry can't get over this build. Its dope. words do not do the picture justice.


Haha thanks. It's still always changing... I need more fittings before I can add more acrylic tubing. Next big project will be implementing some sort of a chiller...


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Haha thanks. It's still always changing... I need more fittings before I can add more acrylic tubing. Next big project will be implementing some sort of a chiller...


Ya, man once you have a chiller, your build is going to be off the charts.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="ThornTwist" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/74750#post_23070237"]
Quadfire 290 x's, that's awesome dude. Sorry can't get over this build. Its dope. Words do not do the picture justice.
I think I'm going soft tubs simply because they are easier to work with and this is my first time doing a custom water loop or any water loop for that matter other than the H70, but c'mon that doesn't really count. I'm thinking maybe alternating between black and red fittings to go with my white tubes. I still have to figure out if I can still buy a kit that will give me most of what I need, unless it would be cheaper to buy everything separate. I don't know if it is or not. If they have white painted pumps I would put all red fittings on, but I don't know if that is an option. That's the way I think would look cool though. Here is a pic of the case I bought so people can see it.





IDK, looks kind of small inside, might not be able to go full custom loop. What do you guys think?[/quote]


if you loose the hd bays front look like you can fit a 420 mm rad there (those are 140 mm fans right?) You might be able to fit another 280 on top. The best way is to search the same case here in ocn and check for wc systems build on it.









EDIT- Ok just check the case and they are 120 mm fans. So, looks like a 360 mm on top and front might be feasible for that case but you have to check if one does not conflict with the other...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@ThornTwist

If this is the card you are talking about, EK's Cooling Configurator says they have a block forthcoming for it. No ETA for it yet though ...

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @ThornTwist
> 
> If this is the card you are talking about, EK's Cooling Configurator says they have a block forthcoming for it. No ETA for it yet though ...
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/


Awesome! Yep, that's it, I double checked on the site just to make sure. REP!!!


----------



## pc-illiterate

And @[email protected] start a new thread to ask your questions in. B-neg will tell you the same. A.question here or there is good but it's a gallery not a help thread. Just friendly advice.


----------



## ThornTwist

You got it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got it.


Good man.


----------



## Trestles126

Sad the build is coming to a end ?! Have had a lot of fun. Can't thank everyone enough.still have a lot or figuring out to do so I'm
Sure there will be more questions. I'm not 100 percent satisfied with the luxe case after seeing all the caselabs builds and honestly I have a new itch to transfer it all over with possibly a ram block and one more gpu into a caselabs white Mercury 8 like the hurricane build







but that should wait till after the holidays!

Here's the phanteks led installed not to sure if I'm gonna keep it as I like red outside and white inside. And the led plug on the Aqua res pretty much does nothing :/


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizzmal*
> 
> I just realized that I failed to post my upgraded system:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [I


That build looks great, man. Excellent rigid tubing and color scheme. I have a question about your multi-GPU connection... I notice that you decided to use Crystal links rather than a bridge, and I think I might go with a similar setup. I see that you have two connections between your cards, as well as an inlet and outlet (in from top and out from the bottom. My question is this:

When connecting two gpu's in a loop, is it ok to have two tubes connecting them (as you have), as long as there is only one inlet into the GPU's and one outlet from them? In other words, I like the aesthetics of having two connections linking the GPU blocks in the loop, but I worry that it might create an endless loop within the two cards, or else drastically reduce the flow rates... I am sure it doesn't, but I wonder if you or someone else might explain the physics of this connection (basically a parallel as opposed to serial connection, right?).

To further clarify: if I had a tube res with multiple inlets and outlets connected in the loop, it would create a flow direction problem. I guess I'm just having a tough time visualizing it, but why is this not an issue with linking GPU's in the manner that you have?

Thanks for any insight into this,

Carson


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> quote name="ThornTwist" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/74750#post_23070237"]
> Quadfire 290 x's, that's awesome dude. Sorry can't get over this build. Its dope. Words do not do the picture justice.
> I think I'm going soft tubs simply because they are easier to work with and this is my first time doing a custom water loop or any water loop for that matter other than the H70, but c'mon that doesn't really count. I'm thinking maybe alternating between black and red fittings to go with my white tubes. I still have to figure out if I can still buy a kit that will give me most of what I need, unless it would be cheaper to buy everything separate. I don't know if it is or not. If they have white painted pumps I would put all red fittings on, but I don't know if that is an option. That's the way I think would look cool though. Here is a pic of the case I bought so people can see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IDK, looks kind of small inside, might not be able to go full custom loop. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> if you loose the hd bays front look like you can fit a 420 mm rad there (those are 140 mm fans right?) You might be able to fit another 280 on top. The best way is to search the same case here in ocn and check for wc systems build on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT- Ok just check the case and they are 120 mm fans. So, looks like a 360 mm on top and front might be feasible for that case but you have to check if one does not conflict with the other...


Missed that, thanks!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd say 360 up top is a winner for that case


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> To further clarify: if I had a tube res with multiple inlets and outlets connected in the loop, it would create a flow direction problem. I guess I'm just having a tough time visualizing it, but why is this not an issue with linking GPU's in the manner that you have?
> 
> Thanks for any insight into this,
> 
> Carson


Parallel connection is used more often when linking 2 or more GPU's together. Flow will be halfed and temp will either stay the same or improve. For me, it improve and both the GPU's are the same or 1/2 degree from each other.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I found lumo plugs for my PSU and fans,great success!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Sad the build is coming to a end ?! Have had a lot of fun. Can't thank everyone enough.still have a lot or figuring out to do so I'm
> Sure there will be more questions. I'm not 100 percent satisfied with the luxe case after seeing all the caselabs builds and honestly I have a new itch to transfer it all over with possibly a ram block and one more gpu into a caselabs white Mercury 8 like the hurricane build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that should wait till after the holidays!
> 
> Here's the phanteks led installed not to sure if I'm gonna keep it as I like red outside and white inside. And the led plug on the Aqua res pretty much does nothing :/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics


From what I can tell those look like good bends.


----------



## ThornTwist

I'll Post this link if anyone want to help me with my future WC system.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> That build looks great, man. Excellent rigid tubing and color scheme. I have a question about your multi-GPU connection... I notice that you decided to use Crystal links rather than a bridge, and I think I might go with a similar setup. I see that you have two connections between your cards, as well as an inlet and outlet (in from top and out from the bottom. My question is this:
> 
> When connecting two gpu's in a loop, is it ok to have two tubes connecting them (as you have), as long as there is only one inlet into the GPU's and one outlet from them? In other words, I like the aesthetics of having two connections linking the GPU blocks in the loop, but I worry that it might create an endless loop within the two cards, or else drastically reduce the flow rates... I am sure it doesn't, but I wonder if you or someone else might explain the physics of this connection (basically a parallel as opposed to serial connection, right?).
> 
> To further clarify: if I had a tube res with multiple inlets and outlets connected in the loop, it would create a flow direction problem. I guess I'm just having a tough time visualizing it, but why is this not an issue with linking GPU's in the manner that you have?
> 
> Thanks for any insight into this,
> 
> Carson


You can read it here:

http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf

http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeHD.aspx#tab1

with parallel overall flow will be higher but inside the gpu blocks will be lower. Honestly is more a cosmetic choice than anything unless your loop suffer from low overall flow already due to high restriction components.


----------



## scubadiver59

Since I'm also starting on my first build, like one or two others here, is there a specific brand of rigid tubing and/or fittings that everyone's using? Pro's/Con's of using a specific brand?

I watched the videos for the heating/bending of hard tubing, and with the recent flurry of issues with soft tubing, I'm going the hard route (literally or figuratively).

EDIT:
Also...what size of tubing?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Haha thanks. It's still always changing... I need more fittings before I can add more acrylic tubing. Next big project will be implementing some sort of a chiller...


i have mcp50X and koolance GPU block.. going to go with another GPU ... how do you find them performing in x-fire. how much heat should i see rising in my water temperature.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Since I'm also starting on my first build, like one or two others here, is there a specific brand of rigid tubing and/or fittings that everyone's using? Pro's/Con's of using a specific brand?
> 
> I watched the videos for the heating/bending of hard tubing, and with the recent flurry of issues with soft tubing, I'm going the hard route (literally or figuratively).
> 
> EDIT:
> Also...what size of tubing?


Like with soft tubing, the diameter doesn't matter much in terms of flow restriction and it's a matter of aesthetics. 12mm is pretty common though.

Some companies make only metric tubing (12 and 16mm) and some only imperial (usually 1/2"). Likewise you would buy fittings that match.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i have mcp50X and koolance GPU block.. going to go with another GPU ... how do you find them performing in x-fire. how much heat should i see rising in my water temperature.


Performance is great. Max vrm temp is around 70 C... That was trifire. The gpu block is on sale for 99.99 on their website


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> I'm leaning away form colored fluid for the time being but I could change my mind if the reasons were good.


No Need for a colour. Distilled water looks great too you know!







Welcome to the club. Taking a dive in watercooling puts you over the top.


----------



## Seid Dark

I ordered some EK Ekoolant yellow for my first custom loop but now I'm having second thoughts. What's the verdict, is it guaranteed to stain the reservoir and blocks and gunk up the whole system? Alternative is to just go with distilled water and something like Mayhems Extreme, I wanted EK fluid for aesthetic reasons.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I ordered some EK Ekoolant yellow for my first custom loop but now I'm having second thoughts. What's the verdict, is it guaranteed to stain the reservoir and blocks and gunk up the whole system? Alternative is to just go with distilled water and something like Mayhems Extreme, I wanted EK fluid for aesthetic reasons.


I used clear(yellow) EK Coolant for 8 months. Didn't gunk up or stained anything. If you already bought it, just use it.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I used clear(yellow) EK Coolant for 8 months. Didn't gunk up or stained anything. If you already bought it, just use it.


Yeah, already received my order from EK. It would be shame to leave it unused so I guess I'm going with Ekoolant.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Question, with a killcoill do you have do anything to prep it? or just stick it in and good to go?

Thanks


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Question, with a killcoill do you have do anything to prep it? or just stick it in and good to go?
> 
> Thanks


Used killcoils for over 18 months. (10+8) and both times they did absolutely nothing. I wouldn't reccomend using one.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Used killcoils for over 18 months. (10+8) and both times they did absolutely nothing. I wouldn't reccomend using one.


Well after my ordeal with Liquid Utopia and "normal" tubing I'm gonna try Norprene and killcoil (already ordered) , just thought I'd ask about if the kill coil needs prep


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Well after my ordeal with Liquid Utopia and "normal" tubing I'm gonna try Norprene and killcoil (already ordered) , just thought I'd ask about if they need prep


You need an old priest and a young priest.

Just out of curiosity, how much LU did you mix with your water before?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You need an old priest and a young priest.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how much LU did you mix with your water before?










I'm sure I can find some of them

Um think it was about half the bottle maybe a little more (had around 1.2l of water) and it did nothing, had massive algae build up and what looked like plasticizer with PrimoChill Advanced LRT tube (which everyone said couldnt happen)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure I can find some of them
> 
> Um think it was about half the bottle maybe a little more (had around 1.2l of water) and it did nothing, had massive algae build up and what looked like plasticizer with PrimoChill Advanced LRT tube (which everyone said couldnt happen)


Yeah that should have been fine then. Its just that I've seen some people use way too little of it.

Anyone that guarantees anything will be absolutely problem free is kidding themselves and you. There are just too many cases of just about any fluid type being totally fine ... and also occasional problems. I've even seen someone insisting that plain tap water is all you need (not that I would do it)
All anyone can do is convey their own experiences with whatever fluid, but there is just so much variability involved. Batches of fluid, additives, tubing and blocks can all be different.
Its a niche hobby, there is always some experimentation involved.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah that should have been fine then. Its just that I've seen some people use way too little of it.
> 
> Anyone that guarantees anything will be absolutely problem free is kidding themselves and you. There are just too many cases of just about any fluid type being totally fine ... and also occasional problems. I've even see someone insisting that plain tap water is all you need (not that I would do it)
> All anyone can do is convey their own experiences with whatever fluid, but there is just so much variability involved. Batches of fluid, additives, tubing and blocks can all be different.
> Its a niche hobby, there is always some experimentation involved.


Yeah I made sure I used either enough or to much lol

I know, before I started building I did read the Advanced LRT was less likely to have problems which was one of the reasons I went for it, it seems in most peoples cases in this thread that was was true but for me almost all my tubes had crap in them, I had really bad algae build up in my block which if left any longer might of caused serious damage thats why I decided to change to Norprene coz its industrial grade tube with no plasticizer and a killcoill seeing most people run them without problems, not that theres much choice in the way of tubes and biocide anyway









Hopefully I wont have many problems with this new setup but I suppose I'll find out in 6 months to a year, providing I put my GPU block on right







I'll probably be back on here crying about something or other tho


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I found lumo plugs for my PSU and fans,great success!


Very good looking fan, cable and connector.


----------



## Antykain

I use IandH Dead-Water bioside coolant additive with Alphacool Ultra Pure Water to keep the algae at bay. Never had any issues with algae growth whatsoever. I usually do a complete cleaning/flush of the blocks and rads every few months. That IandH Dead-Water seems to work quite well.


----------



## Ragsters

I use biocide and distiller only.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> I use IandH Dead-Water bioside coolant additive with Alphacool Ultra Pure Water to keep the algae at bay. Never had any issues with algae growth whatsoever. I usually do a complete cleaning/flush of the blocks and rads every few months. That IandH Dead-Water seems to work quite well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I use biocide and distiller only.


Yeah I was using distilled and Liquid Utopia, kinda didnt work well... probably the LU

I did leave it for almost a year coz I'm to lazy and dont see the point ripping it apart and redoing it every couple of months so maybe that was another reason I had problems but I doubt it


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Right well I'm about to be poor
> 
> 
> 
> The clamps and tube better be worth it lol


Are you getting the clamps for aesthetics ? I think my xspc kit came with a dozen free and they don't look bad et all lol


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Are you getting the clamps for aesthetics ? I think my xspc kit came with a dozen free and they don't look bad et all lol


Nah, wanted clamps I could be 100% sure would be locked in tight

Gonna be pretty hard to see them on the tube I think


----------



## iBored

Curious, can we add a refrigerant like r134a to our coolant/di water in our loop?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> I'm leaning away form colored fluid for the time being but I could change my mind if the reasons were good.
> 
> 
> 
> No Need for a colour. Distilled water looks great too you know!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the club. Taking a dive in watercooling puts you over the top.
Click to expand...

Distilled here. Best stuff since sliced bread and I use no additives whatsoever. If you're keeping an eye on your system you should never worry about algae growth.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Curious, can we add a refrigerant like r134a to our coolant/di water in our loop?


Yeah um... that would be no.









I am sure that it could be done with the proper setup, but R134A is a gas not a liquid. You'd have to have AC fittings and the charging point added. Even then you'd have to figure out a way to cycle the refrigerant through the condenser away from electrical components. Nothing but fans/disc drive and HDD spin in the system and there is no way you're getting the kind of rpm necessary to run a belt to run an AC pump of any worth. If you intend to put something like that together be prepared to spend a good deal of money to get it to work.









~Ceadder


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Used killcoils for over 18 months. (10+8) and both times they did absolutely nothing. I wouldn't reccomend using one.


That's interesting, I ran a loop with just distilled water and a kill coil for 2 years without draining a drop of water from the loop and didn't have any problems. My block looked fine when I took the loop apart, so from my point of view the kill coil does exactly what it's supposed to.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Curious, can we add a refrigerant like r134a to our coolant/di water in our loop?


How would you add something to a liquid system that in it's natural state is a gas?


----------



## alancsalt

Ruining dreams with mere physics....


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Ruining dreams with mere physics....


Ok so I'll give the dream back









*Phase Change Systems*

Or you could include a water chiller in your loop.

Or if you wanted to go the ******* way, you could buy a mini fridge and mount your rads inside that to act as a water chiller??


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok so I'll give the dream back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Phase Change Systems*
> 
> Or you could include a water chiller in your loop.
> 
> Or if you wanted to go the ******* way, you could buy a mini fridge and mount your rads inside that to act as a water chiller??


So that's what it is.
I thought it was possible cos I saw some pictures of rigs with compressors in them.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Or if you wanted to go the ******* way, *you could buy a mini fridge and mount your rads inside* that to act as a water chiller??


Or you could just stick your whole pc in a fridge


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Or you could just stick your whole pc in a fridge


I like you're way of thinking


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I like you're way of thinking










or if you wanna go for total overkill, stick a watercooled system in mineral oil into a fridge


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or if you wanna go for total overkill, stick a watercooled system in mineral oil into a fridge


I'm thinking you may have just found a new definition for overkill


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Or you could just stick your whole pc in a fridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like you're way of thinking
Click to expand...

Yeah...if you like replacing fridge compressors because you have overloaded it,fridges have low duty compressors,they are not designed for continual use.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'm thinking you may have just found a new definition for overkill




I was thinking about sticking a Raspberry Pi underwater or mineral oil, coz reasons








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah...if you like replacing fridge compressors because you have overloaded it,fridges have low duty compressors,they are not designed for continual use.


Industrial fridge?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah...if you like replacing fridge compressors because you have overloaded it,fridges have low duty compressors,they are not designed for continual use.


Yep that's why it would be covered by the ******* clause LoL







Because it wouldn't be practical or even a good idea.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I was thinking about sticking a Raspberry Pi underwater or mineral oil, coz reasons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Industrial fridge?


Well with that Raspberry Pi cooled properly the overclocking opportunities would be unlimited and then you could take over the world


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about sticking a Raspberry Pi underwater or mineral oil, coz reasons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Industrial fridge?*


Hang on, I have a empty freezer room @ work







Maybe a day running temps near pushing -18 Celsius might just do the trick









Hay if I use my bench, which has a H80 on it now, I could post it here


----------



## HITTI

Seen mineral oil being spoke of.

Has anyone tried 3M Novec?

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MNovec/Home/


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Curious, can we add a refrigerant like r134a to our coolant/di water in our loop?


you might need to order one of these mine arrived last week I am getting excited







now sorting the minor details plumbing, wiring, charging, condensation, 60+dB ohh also the power bill


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Seen mineral oil being spoke of.
> 
> Has anyone tried 3M Novec?
> 
> http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MNovec/Home/


Yes. I also have couple of liters for sale....


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> you might need to order one of these mine arrived last week I am getting excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now sorting the minor details plumbing, wiring, charging, condensation, 60+dB ohh also the power bill


Ahh...phase change!!! Me wants!!!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yep that's why it would be covered by the ******* clause LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because it wouldn't be practical or even a good idea.


So you think Rendell basically means dumb and stupid? I take offense to your statement. Also, I betthe first water cooled rig looked beyond ******* rigging.

Edit* - even auto correct didn't understand. It changed ******* to rendell.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Hmmm, Phanteks is unveiling a new 'MP' line of 120mm & 140mm fans targeted specifically for use on rads...


----------



## VSG

Yeah saw them earlier this week- very interesting design. Especially the "lips" on the top which remind me of a cut up eloop. The current Phanteks fans are already good from what I have heard (could just be hearsay though) so hopefully this lives up to the promise.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> So you think Rendell basically means dumb and stupid? I take offense to your statement. Also, I betthe first water cooled rig looked beyond ******* rigging.
> 
> Edit* - even auto correct didn't understand. It changed ******* to rendell.


Sorry no offense was intended and I'm sorry that Jeff Foxworthy made the word ******* mean what 99% of the world now thinks it means. And yes my first water cooling loop wasn't perfect and I totally admit that and yes I'll admit that I've done several things in my life that others would call ******* but that's ok because I can laugh at myself. But ******* doesn't always need to mean dumb and stupid, sometimes it could mean an interesting and unorthodox way of doing something, an odd but creative way of solving a problem. Example: on one of my fist cars the on/off button for the air conditioning was broken you'd push it and it wouldn't latch to stay depressed on it's own anymore. Honda wanted like $140 for the section of circuit board it was attached to, so I used a piece of a drinking straw wedged into the side of the button to hold it in. I had a lot of friends call that ******* thinking, I didn't care because it worked and I had cold air in the summer and it cost me nothing.


----------



## scubadiver59

Remembered a triple 3x360 exterior radiator stand I have in my basement...I think I'm going to use this to practice my rigid tubing skills with before I attack my Stacker 935.

I have three mid-towers I lay on their sides for folding, on a large/long table, so I'll just put the radiator near the middle case and feed video cards in all three cases. I figure two pumps, one or two reserviors, 3x360 rads, and lots of rigid tubing. This way I can finally get some use out of my EVGA GTX 580 Classified Hydro that's been collecting dust since I bought it, and get my three MSI 780s and 680 up and running under water.

What is everyone using for anti-vibration materials for their pumps? I.e. the base? Foam and metal? And where did you source it from.

I might just put down a large piece of plywood and mount the stand to the board, and then the pumps w/rubber under the pump stand, so I might not need any foam or weight materials after all.

Thanks in advance for any info!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Single loop with GPU's, CPU, Chipset and Mosfet. --> What I have, the cheapest alternative.

OR

Dual loop with GPU's in one loop, and CPU, Chipset and Mosfet in another one. --> About 760 USD +

OR

Single loop with GPU's, Chipset and Mosfet, phase change (LD Cooling PC-V2) for CPU. --> About 1060 USD

Really confused on what to do, the price is not really the problem, but the computer is only used for gaming (such as it is not been turned on the last two weeks).


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Single loop with GPU's, CPU, Chipset and Mosfet. --> What I have, the cheapest alternative.
> 
> OR
> 
> Dual loop with GPU's in one loop, and CPU, Chipset and Mosfet in another one. --> About 760 USD +
> 
> OR
> 
> Single loop with GPU's, Chipset and Mosfet, phase change (LD Cooling PC-V2) for CPU. --> About 1060 USD
> 
> Really confused on what to do, the price is not really the problem, but the computer is only used for gaming (such as it is not been turned on the last two weeks).


If you're building a loop base on your sig, i would do a dual loop. Rad for the CPU and phase change for the GPU. CPU doesn't need that much power to keep cool. The (4) 290X's does.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Or if you wanted to go the ******* way, you could buy a mini fridge and mount your rads inside that to act as a water chiller??


Fridges are meant to dispel heat slowly and keep that temperature in an insulated system. They are horribly inefficient at cooling constantly. Assuming you have a pretty hefty rig to cool, it would be like leaving the door open a couple inches with a small fan blowing in. Your fridge couldn't possibly keep up.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> If you're building a loop base on your sig, i would do a dual loop. Rad for the CPU and phase change for the GPU. CPU doesn't need that much power to keep cool. The (4) 290X's does.


I have no real need to do dual loop, neither phase change to be honest. Everything is already water cooled, 46C full load on GPU's with 1100/1300 (100 Mhz overclock) and CPU @ 4,9 Ghz go as far as 72C on the hottest core with my water cooling system, the need of phase change is if I want to push 5 Ghz + for 24/7.







Seems kind of worthless to me, because I do not use the computer that much.









As I said, confused.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have no real need to do dual loop, neither phase change to be honest. Everything is already water cooled, 46C full load on GPU's with 1100/1300 (100 Mhz overclock) and CPU @ 4,9 Ghz go as far as 72C on the hottest core with my water cooling system, the need of phase change is if I want to push 5 Ghz + for 24/7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems kind of worthless to me, because I do not use the computer that much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said, confused.


Totally random but I voted for your rig... Looks freaking sweet.

Do you run pt1 bios?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok Folks, this is long due. The build log for the reverse SMA8 I am working is now live. Just want to give a start kick and will update soon with tons of information and progress on it I have been doing the last 3 weeks. But for now the build log is live:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build

Build name is tentative at this point and I am open to suggestions. Will be a dual loop all in black and white theme that is why I choose "chessboard". I have been always been suspicious about dual loops with different liquid colors but my gut feeling tells me this is going to work. If not my back up plan is both loops in white with gray liquid but I am going for the dual loop with white and gray liquid as a start. Thank you all who have been asking about the build log.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Totally random but I voted for your rig... Looks freaking sweet.
> 
> Do you run pt1 bios?


"Freaking sweet" is an overstatement, but thanks.

I am not running pt1 bios, have not really got around to change the bios yet, pretty much maxing everything at 4K anyways ... so I guess I do not see the reason to do it. Unfortunately I have two Elpida and two Hynix cards, have not had them past 1100/1300 on the stock bios, will probably go for pt1 after a while though.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> "Freaking sweet" is an overstatement, but thanks.
> 
> I am not running pt1 bios, have not really got around to change the bios yet, pretty much maxing everything at 4K anyways ... so I guess I do not see the reason to do it. Unfortunately I have two Elpida and two Hynix cards, have not had them past 1100/1300 on the stock bios, will probably go for pt1 after a while though.


Yeah I have 3 hynix and one elpida, even on trifire on stock bios no matter what I try I can't get the cards over 1.4 volts.... The only solution seems to be PT1 bios which actually gets lower scores clock for clock I think...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok Folks, this is long due. The build log for the reverse SMA8 I am working is now live. Just want to give a start kick and will update soon with tons of information and progress on it I have been doing the last 3 weeks. But for now the build log is live:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build
> 
> Build name is tentative at this point and I am open to suggestions. Will be a dual loop all in black and white theme that is why I choose "chessboard". I have been always been suspicious about dual loops with different liquid colors but my gut feeling tells me this is going to work. If not my back up plan is both loops in white with gray liquid but I am going for the dual loop with white and gray liquid as a start. Thank you all who have been asking about the build log.


I have only used dual loop once, mixed with Mayhems Tharsis Red Aurora and the Mayhems Pastel White, looks sweet if you can find that spot where it looks sweet and not overdone.



My old Z87 rig, not the best picture but this is what I think is the "sweetspot" of mixed colors in different loops, of course there is many different opinions on this.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah I have 3 hynix and one elpida, even on trifire on stock bios no matter what I try I can't get the cards over 1.4 volts.... The only solution seems to be PT1 bios which actually gets lower scores clock for clock I think...


I have not really been trying to push my cards anything at all, I did not add any voltage at 1100/1300, so I have yet to experience with overclocking my cards (I am sure the time will come). Do you see any improvements with quadfire stock and quadfire overclocked in games at 4K? Only difference I have seen is when overclocking the CPU, I guess it was bottlenecking my cards at anything lower than 4,7 Ghz. 4,7 Ghz and up is all fine though.

Got some weird lag in Metro Last Light and BF4 with my cards at 1100/1300, may be some trouble with my voltage though, but cranking things down to stock I am all good with good framerates and no lag. FireStrike Extreme (1440P) get driver crashes after 20-30 seconds with 1100/1300, so I guess they need some more volts, but as I said, I have not been doing anything with the voltage yet. The time will come.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have only used dual loop once, mixed with Mayhems Tharsis Red Aurora and the Mayhems Pastel White, looks sweet if you can find that spot where it looks sweet and not overdone.
> 
> 
> 
> My old Z87 rig, not the best picture but this is what I think is the "sweetspot" of mixed colors in different loops, of course there is many different opinions on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not really been trying to push my cards anything at all, I did not add any voltage at 1100/1300, so I have yet to experience with overclocking my cards (I am sure the time will come). Do you see any improvements with quadfire stock and quadfire overclocked in games at 4K? Only difference I have seen is when overclocking the CPU, I guess it was bottlenecking my cards at anything lower than 4,7 Ghz. 4,7 Ghz and up is all fine though.
> 
> Got some weird lag in Metro Last Light and BF4 with my cards at 1100/1300, may be some trouble with my voltage though, but cranking things down to stock I am all good with good framerates and no lag. FireStrike Extreme (1440P) get driver crashes after 20-30 seconds with 1100/1300, so I guess they need some more volts, but as I said, I have not been doing anything with the voltage yet. The time will come.


It's challenging for sure... I can tell it will be difficult. There are so many small things that need to be considered, especially when you have different cards. I haven't had mine but a few days now, was running trifire with the hynix cards which all clocked really well. Now with the elpida, I think I am going to have to clock every card individually as it will be holding the others back.

Perhaps I need to test PT1 bios more. I have the cooling capacity and power to provide all the way to 1.5 volts, just don't know how to do it... Maybe ill try PT3 bios.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> It's challenging for sure... I can tell it will be difficult. There are so many small things that need to be considered, especially when you have different cards. I haven't had mine but a few days now, was running trifire with the hynix cards which all clocked really well. Now with the elpida, I think I am going to have to clock every card individually as it will be holding the others back.
> 
> Perhaps I need to test PT1 bios more. I have the cooling capacity and power to provide all the way to 1.5 volts, just don't know how to do it... Maybe ill try PT3 bios.


What is the reason you push your cards that high on the voltage? Just for benchmarking?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> What is the reason you push your cards that high on the voltage? Just for benchmarking?


Of course! Why not??


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Of course! Why not??


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Of course! Why not??


So as to not turn your home into a sauna?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> So as to not turn your home into a sauna?


Its perfect for the Winter


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> So as to not turn your home into a sauna?


This reminds me of when I have gtx 295 sli (dual pcbs). Oh boy they were great space heaters. I wanted to watercool them but couldn't justify the block prices at the time.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, Phanteks is unveiling a new 'MP' line of 120mm & 140mm fans targeted specifically for use on rads...


Phanteks has me interested, i wonder how they will preform!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Phanteks has me interested, i wonder how they will preform!


knowing that their previous fans were not made for radiator use, i would say they will do an excellent job and perhaps become the new #1 fan...


----------



## VSG

^ What do you guys think is important info to get from fans? Noise vs RPM? Airflow (through a rad) vs RPM? Anything else?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ What do you guys think is important info to get from fans? Noise vs RPM? Airflow (through a rad) vs RPM? Anything else?


What about AirFlow vs. Noise?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What about AirFlow vs. Noise?


Well that's not mutually exclusive given the other two data sets. I was enquiring more in terms of measurements and experiments. I should have 1 each of these Phanteks 120 and 140mm fans soon.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ What do you guys think is important info to get from fans? Noise vs RPM? Airflow (through a rad) vs RPM? Anything else?


Level of noise v/s performance to move heat from a radiator or computer case. And some configuration Pull,Push, PullPush and with/without fan filter.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Fridges are meant to dispel heat slowly and keep that temperature in an insulated system. They are horribly inefficient at cooling constantly. Assuming you have a pretty hefty rig to cool, it would be like leaving the door open a couple inches with a small fan blowing in. Your fridge couldn't possibly keep up.


I'm aware of this, it was meant to be funny unfortunately few found it to be.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ What do you guys think is important info to get from fans? Noise vs RPM? Airflow (through a rad) vs RPM? Anything else?


personally I would like to see a comparison of a variety of fans all set to the same CFM I would suggest 60cfm and 70cfm maybe 80cfm for really big gun fans.
Then list or graph the predetermined cfm with static pressure and dB measurements.
probably the only way to differentiate for me the performance of each fan propeller that every fan manufacturer claims to have the magic formula of lest noise with maximum flow.

Just that would be the lowest specification fan in terms of cfm I would consider buying because anything below that can be controlled with fan controllers
Base line performance would be for me would be maximum cfm would give me preference of which fan I would choose but what it always comes down to high static pressure = higher Db. .

I looked at lists of fans before and in the end I settled for some Silverstone Ap181 so one radiator would have 2 fans in total of 260cfm ,
so terms of 120mm fans that would be 4x60cfm=240cfm for a quad radiator. so on and so on


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Of course! Why not??


Pfff, I do not know. Use less power









I will start overclocking the moment I am being getting bad FPS in games I guess, if I go all out on my rebuild I will do heavy overclocking though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ What do you guys think is important info to get from fans? Noise vs RPM? Airflow (through a rad) vs RPM? Anything else?
> 
> 
> 
> What about AirFlow vs. Noise?
Click to expand...

^ This!

What I'd really like to see is a new test chart like this one showing airflow through a rad on one axis and dB on the other but with newer fans from the likes of eLoop, Cougar, Phanteks, alpenföhn, etc alongside some of the tried & true staples like the AP-15 and AP-45 to see how they measure up.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/


Spoiler: Airflow VS Noise Chart







And even better yet, it would really awesome if each individual fan test shown in the graph was accompanied by a video showing the test like Martin did on his last rounds of fan-on-rad testing. It's really great to be able to see and hear the results for yourself as opposed to taking someone's posted results at face value, but unfortunately Martin never got around to adding the results to or creating a new chart of the results like he had done with the one I posted above.


Spoiler: Video


----------



## scubadiver59

A co-worker sent me this today...

http://imgur.com/gallery/47c72

A little plain and simple but nonetheless intriguing...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> A co-worker sent me this today...
> 
> http://imgur.com/gallery/47c72
> 
> A little plain and simple but nonetheless intriguing...


Wall mounted, Water cooled PC (The RecoilMachine)
http://www.overclock.net/t/1467135/wall-mounted-water-cooled-pc-the-recoilmachine/


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wall mounted, Water cooled PC (The RecoilMachine)
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1467135/wall-mounted-water-cooled-pc-the-recoilmachine/


Silly me...


----------



## HITTI

My EK L240 Kit with T drain. I have decreased 10c degrees from this kit coming from an Corsair H105. Something funky about the corsair I didn't like. Rigids on the cpu cooler, backplate is cheap and lose if cpu cooler wasnt mounted and the backplate was plastic, I am very happy I got that H105 out of my system and real water cooling installed.

What I love about this L240 kit, the backplate is solid, the cpu cooler is flat and shiny.

Total of 10 hrs of work time on this project.

Sexai.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ What do you guys think is important info to get from fans? Noise vs RPM? Airflow (through a rad) vs RPM? Anything
> else?


Getting a bit specific and time consuming perhaps, but what about....

Shrouded Push Vs Push
Push/Pull Vs Shrouded Push
Push/Pull Vs Shrouded Pull
ect ect...


----------



## jfro63

Build a Lexan cover for it.... Make it a display case where you can control the dust and temperature.. Unique!


----------



## soulreaper05

I got this GPU water block to put in my new mITX build, but the large amount of naked nickel does not fit my build at all. I want to paint all the metal that is not touched by water (top side and edges only) matte black to better fit my build, how do you recommend that I proceed to ensure good paint adhesion and a good finish?


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> My EK L240 Kit with T drain. I have decreased 10c degrees from this kit coming from an Corsair H105. Something funky about the corsair I didn't like. Rigids on the cpu cooler, backplate is cheap and lose if cpu cooler wasnt mounted and the backplate was plastic, I am very happy I got that H105 out of my system and real water cooling installed.
> 
> What I love about this L240 kit, the backplate is solid, the cpu cooler is flat and shiny.
> 
> Total of 10 hrs of work time on this project.
> 
> Sexai.


If you could find a way to mount your pump more parallel with your cpu to make your tubing runs shorter it would make your loop look much much better IMHO, that said, it is much more tidy than what mine used to look like...










By no means is mine anywhere even close to perfect, but the shorter runs look much better than longer ones IMO.


----------



## mend0k

Just would like to update my post now as I am going to sell my computer this month.

One thing that I would like you guys to notice in the front above the fan controllers it has a decal that says "powered by evga" then check out my PSU... pretty sweet huh?







lol..


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I got this GPU water block to put in my new mITX build, but the large amount of naked nickel does not fit my build at all. I want to paint all the metal that is not touched by water (top side and edges only) matte black to better fit my build, how do you recommend that I proceed to ensure good paint adhesion and a good finish?


i think you need to contact B negative about this


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I got this GPU water block to put in my new mITX build, but the large amount of naked nickel does not fit my build at all. I want to paint all the metal that is not touched by water (top side and edges only) matte black to better fit my build, how do you recommend that I proceed to ensure good paint adhesion and a good finish?


I would personally use vinyl not paint.

@ProfeZZor X


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I got this GPU water block to put in my new mITX build, but the large amount of naked nickel does not fit my build at all. I want to paint all the metal that is not touched by water (top side and edges only) matte black to better fit my build, how do you recommend that I proceed to ensure good paint adhesion and a good finish?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don´t known about the brands and options in US but something like matte black metal or all purpose spray like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249122-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS6C/ref=pd_sim_hi_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=19WVRFQG5R9CCESJWEBW

cover the block with painters tape and take your time with several covers of spray. Make sure you cover with painters tape everything you don´t want to paint (which I assume is up to the o-ring limit). Don´t try to rush and get the job done in one pass. It might take several (5 to 7) pass to get it done. You might also consider a primer before the matte black. Finally, a second option would be to talk with someone like B_neg to produce a black shroud to your block as he did recently in one of his builds.

hope it helps










EDIT- Or as lowfat suggested in a







way vynil.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I got this GPU water block to put in my new mITX build, but the large amount of naked nickel does not fit my build at all. I want to paint all the metal that is not touched by water (top side and edges only) matte black to better fit my build, how do you recommend that I proceed to ensure good paint adhesion and a good finish?


It's stainless steel, so the correct way would be a light sanding of 1000 grit or so followed by some etching primer and paint of your choice.

Might be able to use plastidip here as well without doing any work, but not sure on the longevity of it on non prepped stainless.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I got this GPU water block to put in my new mITX build, but the large amount of naked nickel does not fit my build at all. I want to paint all the metal that is not touched by water (top side and edges only) matte black to better fit my build, how do you recommend that I proceed to ensure good paint adhesion and a good finish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think you need to contact B negative about this
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I got this GPU water block to put in my new mITX build, but the large amount of naked nickel does not fit my build at all. I want to paint all the metal that is not touched by water (top side and edges only) matte black to better fit my build, how do you recommend that I proceed to ensure good paint adhesion and a good finish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would personally *use vinyl* not paint.
> 
> @ProfeZZor X
Click to expand...

This.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, Phanteks is unveiling a new 'MP' line of 120mm & 140mm fans targeted specifically for use on rads...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks has me interested, i wonder how they will preform!
Click to expand...

I'm hoping these come out soon cause even at their pumped up specs they should be pretty solid performers. Wonder how much they're gonna want for em. If they're too expensive that's a no go for my wallet.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I got this GPU water block to put in my new mITX build, but the large amount of naked nickel does not fit my build at all. I want to paint all the metal that is not touched by water (top side and edges only) matte black to better fit my build, how do you recommend that I proceed to ensure good paint adhesion and a good finish?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think you need to contact B negative about this
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I got this GPU water block to put in my new mITX build, but the large amount of naked nickel does not fit my build at all. I want to paint all the metal that is not touched by water (top side and edges only) matte black to better fit my build, how do you recommend that I proceed to ensure good paint adhesion and a good finish?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would personally *use vinyl* not paint.
> 
> @ProfeZZor X
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This.
Click to expand...

I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.








Before...
http://s225.photobucket.com/user/Ceadderman/media/Computer/2011-08-0813-17-46659.jpg.html

Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.









After...
http://s225.photobucket.com/user/Ceadderman/media/Computer/2011-08-1314-59-15493.jpg.html

You be the judge.

I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.

However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> A co-worker sent me this today...
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/47c72
> 
> 
> A little plain and simple but nonetheless intriguing...


That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too _meh_ for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm hopi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ng these come out soon cause even at their pumped up specs they should be pretty solid performers. Wonder how much they're gonna want for em. If they're too expensive that's a no go for my wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> http://s225.photobucket.com/user/Ceadderman/media/Computer/2011-08-0813-17-46659.jpg.html
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> http://s225.photobucket.com/user/Ceadderman/media/Computer/2011-08-1314-59-15493.jpg.html
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too *meh* for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


something like this?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23133/cab-1936/PCI_Slot_Extension_Cable_Riser_-_7.html


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too *meh* for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree. It looks like a good system now. But IMHO he should have used acrylic tubing and aligned all the hardware so the bends were all parallel. Could have been very easy to do if it more planning was done ahead.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm hopi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ng these come out soon cause even at their pumped up specs they should be pretty solid performers. Wonder how much they're gonna want for em. If they're too expensive that's a no go for my wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> http://s225.photobucket.com/user/Ceadderman/media/Computer/2011-08-0813-17-46659.jpg.html
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> http://s225.photobucket.com/user/Ceadderman/media/Computer/2011-08-1314-59-15493.jpg.html
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too *meh* for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> something like this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23133/cab-1936/PCI_Slot_Extension_Cable_Riser_-_7.html
Click to expand...

Yup thanks. Didn't know what to call it so searching for it is a bit difficult. Although I'm sure I woulda eventually...







lol

+Rep to you for being on the ball.









~Ceadder


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ What do you guys think is important info to get from fans? Noise vs RPM? Airflow (through a rad) vs RPM? Anything else?


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/

maybe after looking at this chart it would seem to indicate that all fans are pretty similar in cfm vs dB apart from a few exceptions being GTyphoons and DeltaVHE

that a bit of thought I would like to see cfm vs static pressure might show indicate performance differentiations in blade design

I saying that in is all relevant information as I always wonder manufacturer claims vs independent testing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mend0k*
> 
> Just would like to update my post now as I am going to sell my computer this month.
> 
> One thing that I would like you guys to notice in the front above the fan controllers it has a decal that says "powered by evga" then check out my PSU... pretty sweet huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was wondering if you have some finished pics I am a little bemused it appears to me you have x3 triple 120mm radiators + 9 fan radiator in a single loop to cool 1 CPU?
you could be even hiding another radiator in the bottom there as well


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/
> 
> maybe after looking at this chart it would seem to indicate that all fans are pretty similar in cfm vs dB apart from a few exceptions being GTyphoons and DeltaVHE
> 
> that a bit of thought I would like to see cfm vs static pressure might show indicate performance differentiations in blade design
> 
> I saying that in is all relevant information as I always wonder manufacturer claims vs independent testing


Measuring CFM or static pressure is not easy, especially when there is no standard method in the industry.

I would also say look up Martin's Round 12 Fan test, especially the videos, which are much more helpful in my opinion.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm hopi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ng these come out soon cause even at their pumped up specs they should be pretty solid performers. Wonder how much they're gonna want for em. If they're too expensive that's a no go for my wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> 
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> 
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too *meh* for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> something like this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23133/cab-1936/PCI_Slot_Extension_Cable_Riser_-_7.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup thanks. Didn't know what to call it so searching for it is a bit difficult. Although I'm sure I woulda eventually...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> +Rep to you for being on the ball.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

This is the one you want though...trust me on this one.

a lot more expensive, but worth it.



http://www.adexelec.com/pciexp.htm

You can get it to a custom length. I got a 4"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm hopi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ng these come out soon cause even at their pumped up specs they should be pretty solid performers. Wonder how much they're gonna want for em. If they're too expensive that's a no go for my wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> 
> 
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> 
> 
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too *meh* for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> something like this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23133/cab-1936/PCI_Slot_Extension_Cable_Riser_-_7.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup thanks. Didn't know what to call it so searching for it is a bit difficult. Although I'm sure I woulda eventually...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> +Rep to you for being on the ball.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is the one you want though...trust me on this one.
> a lot more expensive, but worth it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.adexelec.com/pciexp.htm
> 
> You can get it to a custom length. I got a 4"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

+Rep to an RoG brotha.









I think that's what I too would go with.









~Ceadder


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm hopi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ng these come out soon cause even at their pumped up specs they should be pretty solid performers. Wonder how much they're gonna want for em. If they're too expensive that's a no go for my wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> 
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> 
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too *meh* for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> something like this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23133/cab-1936/PCI_Slot_Extension_Cable_Riser_-_7.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup thanks. Didn't know what to call it so searching for it is a bit difficult. Although I'm sure I woulda eventually...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> +Rep to you for being on the ball.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is the one you want though...trust me on this one.
> a lot more expensive, but worth it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.adexelec.com/pciexp.htm
> 
> You can get it to a custom length. I got a 4"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> +Rep to an RoG brotha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that's what I too would go with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

yesir 

I first used these PCIE riser passive pass thru a few years ago on a ROG quadfire

4 x 5870. you can see the blue in there barely


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm hopi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ng these come out soon cause even at their pumped up specs they should be pretty solid performers. Wonder how much they're gonna want for em. If they're too expensive that's a no go for my wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> 
> 
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> 
> 
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too *meh* for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> something like this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23133/cab-1936/PCI_Slot_Extension_Cable_Riser_-_7.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup thanks. Didn't know what to call it so searching for it is a bit difficult. Although I'm sure I woulda eventually...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> +Rep to you for being on the ball.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is the one you want though...trust me on this one.
> 
> a lot more expensive, but worth it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.adexelec.com/pciexp.htm
> 
> You can get it to a custom length. I got a 4"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> +Rep to an RoG brotha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that's what I too would go with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yesir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first used these PCIE riser passive pass thru a few years ago on a ROG quadfire
> 
> 4 x 5870. you can see the blue in there barely
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I see why you went(?) to water. That's a LOT of heat there.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Getting a bit specific and time consuming perhaps, but what about....
> 
> Shrouded Push Vs Push
> Push/Pull Vs Shrouded Push
> Push/Pull Vs Shrouded Pull
> ect ect...


Dimastech makes these shrouds in radiator sizes; it's far cheaper than buying multiple individual ones.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Getting a bit specific and time consuming perhaps, but what about....
> 
> Shrouded Push Vs Push
> Push/Pull Vs Shrouded Push
> Push/Pull Vs Shrouded Pull
> ect ect...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dimastech makes these shrouds in radiator sizes; it's far cheaper than buying multiple individual ones.
Click to expand...

But they aren't separated between fans. So I imagine there is some conflict going on under the shroud. Shrouds are meant to put some distance from the radiator so the airflow doesn't bounce back creating turbulence. I would think that having no focus point on the edge of each fan would undo what you want to accomplish with a shroud. Yeah it's cheaper but is it *better*?

~Ceadder


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But they aren't separated between fans. So I imagine there is some conflict going on under the shroud. Shrouds are meant to put some distance from the radiator so the airflow doesn't bounce back creating turbulence. I would think that having no focus point on the edge of each fan would undo what you want to accomplish with a shroud. Yeah it's cheaper but is it *better*?
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was under the impression that the shrouds purpose was to eliminate the dead spot directly under the motor.


----------



## sinnedone

Unless one of those spacers is the same diameter as the fan housing I doubt it would benefit anything.


----------



## badtaylorx

Ive used both scenarios
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Getting a bit specific and time consuming perhaps, but what about....
> 
> Shrouded Push Vs Push
> Push/Pull Vs Shrouded Push
> Push/Pull Vs Shrouded Pull
> ect ect...


Ive used both methods of shrouding, both perform the same, but the dimastech non-separated version is much quieter.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But they aren't separated between fans. So I imagine there is some conflict going on under the shroud. Shrouds are meant to put some distance from the radiator so the airflow doesn't bounce back creating turbulence. I would think that having no focus point on the edge of each fan would undo what you want to accomplish with a shroud. Yeah it's cheaper but is it *better*?
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that the shrouds purpose was to eliminate the dead spot directly under the motor.
Click to expand...

Dual function I believe. Moves the fan away to lessen the dead spot and helps focus the airflow. Which I think is another reason the dead spot diminishes with a shroud. I've built them using a fan housing. Which works pretty well if you have the fan handy and don't wish to spend money on one. My 1st one was a brand new fan that I didn't figure I'd ever use.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Wait people still use shrouds?









I just use the XSPC gaskets







but thats more to stop air from leaking out between the fan and rad


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Wait people still use shrouds?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just use the XSPC gaskets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but thats more to stop air from leaking out between the fan and rad


I've got Phobya gaskets under my Exhausting fans but tbh if I didn't have an ridiculously small stock window on my HAF, I would run a shroud. Makes the system quieter than it runs atm. I'm working on my build though so I will be adding a shroud below the top above the radiator and run fans on top under a Murder Mod like cover.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> http://s225.photobucket.com/user/Ceadderman/media/Computer/2011-08-0813-17-46659.jpg.html
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> http://s225.photobucket.com/user/Ceadderman/media/Computer/2011-08-1314-59-15493.jpg.html
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.


There is nothing wrong with painting metal,its just magnitudes easier just to cover with vinyl,cost significantly less in time and money and is removable.

Plus you dont need to be any good at painting,getting a poor paint finish is very noticeable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/
> 
> maybe after looking at this chart it would seem to indicate that all fans are pretty similar in cfm vs dB apart from a few exceptions being GTyphoons and DeltaVHE
> 
> that a bit of thought I would like to see cfm vs static pressure might show indicate performance differentiations in blade design
> 
> I saying that in is all relevant information as I always wonder manufacturer claims vs independent testing
> 
> 
> 
> Measuring CFM or static pressure is not easy, especially when *there is no standard method in the industry.*
> 
> I would also say look up Martin's Round 12 Fan test, especially the videos, which are much more helpful in my opinion.
Click to expand...

There very much is.....










All these homebrew tests are pretty worthless tbh,no offence to anyone that does test fans but this is the proper way of doing things,all the homebrew tests have seen so far dont work for me unless they are doing straight performance on rad/Heatsinks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm hopi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ng these come out soon cause even at their pumped up specs they should be pretty solid performers. Wonder how much they're gonna want for em. If they're too expensive that's a no go for my wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> 
> 
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> 
> 
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too *meh* for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> something like this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23133/cab-1936/PCI_Slot_Extension_Cable_Riser_-_7.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup thanks. Didn't know what to call it so searching for it is a bit difficult. Although I'm sure I woulda eventually...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> +Rep to you for being on the ball.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *This is the one you want though...trust me on this one.
> a lot more expensive, but worth it.*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.adexelec.com/pciexp.htm
> 
> You can get it to a custom length. I got a 4"
Click to expand...

I read a PCI-riser test recently,no difference between them...at all. There was even one of those expensive 3m ones in there and it was no better.


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> If you could find a way to mount your pump more parallel with your cpu to make your tubing runs shorter it would make your loop look much much better IMHO, that said, it is much more tidy than what mine used to look like...


I wanted to mount the pump/res on the motherboard wall but, then I would have not been able to fill it, purge air out and such. Because it be so short tubing.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> 
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> 
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is nothing wrong with painting metal,its just magnitudes easier just to cover with vinyl,cost significantly less in time and money and is removable.
> 
> Plus you dont need to be any good at painting,getting a poor paint finish is very noticeable.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/
> 
> maybe after looking at this chart it would seem to indicate that all fans are pretty similar in cfm vs dB apart from a few exceptions being GTyphoons and DeltaVHE
> 
> that a bit of thought I would like to see cfm vs static pressure might show indicate performance differentiations in blade design
> 
> I saying that in is all relevant information as I always wonder manufacturer claims vs independent testing
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Measuring CFM or static pressure is not easy, especially when *there is no standard method in the industry.*
> 
> I would also say look up Martin's Round 12 Fan test, especially the videos, which are much more helpful in my opinion.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There very much is.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All these homebrew tests are pretty worthless tbh,no offence to anyone that does test fans but this is the proper way of doing things,all the homebrew tests have seen so far dont work for me unless they are doing straight performance on rad/Heatsinks.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm hopi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ng these come out soon cause even at their pumped up specs they should be pretty solid performers. Wonder how much they're gonna want for em. If they're too expensive that's a no go for my wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with painting the metal. Especially if you prep it right. Heck, I painted the metal piece of my CIVF MB block and it still looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before...
> 
> 
> Note how little that looks like an RoG compliant part. Black acetal is awesome but the Nickel finish is just blah for the board it goes to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After...
> 
> 
> You be the judge.
> 
> I scuffed the surface a little with a scotchbrite pad taped up a barb fitting to keep the paint out of the threads and squirted it with Universal Advanced paint. It still looks like new imho.
> 
> 
> However... I will say that unless the GPU is in an inverted case or one where you will directly see and focus on the shiny piece, that it really is not necessary. Unlike my block which woulda stuck out like Branson's sore thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That dude is in serious need of Rigid tubing. It looks great and is a great idea for keeping the PC off the floor away from Toddlers w/o worrying about it falling on top of them. So I know what I will be doing next, but the soft flexible tubing is good albeit a little too *meh* for my taste. Wonder where he got his PCIe cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> something like this?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23133/cab-1936/PCI_Slot_Extension_Cable_Riser_-_7.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup thanks. Didn't know what to call it so searching for it is a bit difficult. Although I'm sure I woulda eventually...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> +Rep to you for being on the ball.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *This is the one you want though...trust me on this one.
> a lot more expensive, but worth it.*
> 
> 
> http://www.adexelec.com/pciexp.htm
> 
> You can get it to a custom length. I got a 4"
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I read a PCI-riser test recently,no difference between them...at all. There was even one of those expensive 3m ones in there and it was no better.
Click to expand...

Over the last four years an Inordinate number of people have had problems with the less expensive models of passive PCIe risers. Before I purchased the one above from ADEX, I bought two that simply did not recognize (or pass the signal thru) weather this is fragile wiring or easily damaged tracers I don't know, but I have found others here on OCN as well who have had the same experience,

It seems PCIe risers are a 'you get what you pay for' proposition. I would rather (and Indeed have since) pay the premium price to ensure I am getting a flexible, reusable premium product. Of course C-man can do as he wishes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Dunno about the graphics tho.....

And the integrated res trays are done,painted and ready for the acrylic res tray.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Love the broken up/shattered part of the graphics in combination with the marble painting effect ^_^


----------



## sinnedone

Ive been working on my first water cooled build for a little while now (link to build log HERE ) and wanted to get some input. I figured since this thread gets a good amount of traffic I might get more responses.









I'm simply trying to choose between having the "nickel" plated thumb screws for the supremacy cpu block redone locally to better match my build, or painting the thumb screws black.

Here are a couple of pictures and input would be appreciated.









Nickel:


Black:
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...alman v1/20141101_164547_zpse0c6f091.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...n v1/20141101_164334_HDR_zps99f19970.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...n v1/20141101_164317_HDR_zps1ff48117.jpg.html


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Ive been working on my first water cooled build for a little while now (link to build log HERE ) and wanted to get some input. I figured since this thread gets a good amount of traffic I might get more responses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm simply trying to choose between having the "nickel" plated thumb screws for the supremacy cpu block redone locally to better match my build, or painting the thumb screws black.
> 
> Here are a couple of pictures and input would be appreciated.


Nickel for sure. They match with the block and all other shiny surfaces


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Nickel for sure. They match with the block and all other shiny surfaces


I vote nickel as well


----------



## DarthBaggins

Black, a tad more conservative and to me looks cleaner


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Ive been working on my first water cooled build for a little while now (link to build log HERE ) and wanted to get some input. I figured since this thread gets a good amount of traffic I might get more responses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm simply trying to choose between having the "nickel" plated thumb screws for the supremacy cpu block redone locally to better match my build, or painting the thumb screws black.
> 
> Here are a couple of pictures and input would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel:
> 
> 
> Black:
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...alman v1/20141101_164547_zpse0c6f091.jpg.html
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...n v1/20141101_164334_HDR_zps99f19970.jpg.html
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...n v1/20141101_164317_HDR_zps1ff48117.jpg.html


If you decide to go nickel, I would seriously consider buying the EK Supremacy Elite Nickel-bracket too, I bought if for almost nothing and it makes everything looks much cleaner (I think I paid 12 USD for it), then you will get rid of that "black-ish" look in the middle of the EK-Supremacy and you will have a more thorough nickel-theme at the center of your motherboard. Just a tips!









When it comes to availability, I just asked one of the Norwegian suppliers to get me it directly from EKWB and there seemed to be no problem, I am sure anybody else would help you out if you just ask for it.











Here you can see the Nickel-bracket with my EK-Supremacy Full Nickel (perfect match by the way).


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If you decide to go nickel, I would seriously consider buying the EK Supremacy Elite Nickel-bracket too, I bought if for almost nothing and it makes everything looks much cleaner (I think I paid 12 USD for it), then you will get rid of that "black-ish" look in the middle of the EK-Supremacy and you will have a more thorough nickel-theme at the center of your motherboard. Just a tips!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it comes to availability, I just asked one of the Norwegian suppliers to get me it directly from EKWB and there seemed to be no problem, I am sure anybody else would help you out if you just ask for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the Nickel-bracket with my EK-Supremacy Full Nickel (perfect match by the way).






I've always just loved the clean nickel blocks that EK puts out.




I will vote to keep the mounting hardware black. It'll let the nickel aspects of your build shine more, and they'll contrast more from the darkness.

-Zepp


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question about fan setups and cooling. My last loop had a single set of rad fans but I decided to go push/pull now I'm unsure as to which rad should be intake and which should be out. All 11 fans are AP-15s running at 5v (can run at 12v to if needed







)

This is my current setup, it works pretty well and I dont have much problem with dust



But I was wondering if this would be better suited for cooling and or dust control with the air pressure



I added my 290 to my loop this time and will probably overclock it and my CPU so its gonna need to dissipate a lot of heat this time round









Thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

All intake..all day.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Measuring CFM or static pressure is not easy, especially when there is no standard method in the industry.
> 
> I would also say look up Martin's Round 12 Fan test, especially the videos, which are much more helpful in my opinion.


there could well be no testing mythology for liquid cooling enthusiast like us









this could be of some use
http://www.sensortechnics.com/en/products/pressure-sensors-and-transmitters/low-pressure-transmitters/

really comes down to if you are willing to test it for us under radiator simulated air flow restrictions.
I personally don't have the time or equipment but would look forward to seeing some results if you decide to test a little different to standard free flowing tests.


----------



## Ironsmack

^if you're doing well with the first setup, then leave it.

If you want to experiment and see how your temp works - then change it. There's no definitive way in doing airflow configurations.

Edit: dammit, ninja'd!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

BNEG, doesnt all intake make a hell of a lot of dust? lol

Thanks guys I'll have to play around

Might end up going as top intake, might cool it a little better seeing as its more cool air going on more rad


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All intake..all day.


Can you elaborate? In my build I have the front intake (pulling air over a rad from outside) and I have the rear fan as intake with just the Top fans as exhaust (pushing through my top Rad)

Seeing what you are getting at on the all intake theory or just sarcasm?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> BNEG, doesnt all intake make a hell of a lot of dust? lol
> 
> Thanks guys I'll have to play around
> 
> Might end up going as top intake, might cool it a little better seeing as its more cool air going on more rad


It will if you don't have any filters on intakes. Otherwise, positive pressure will not let any dust from other non filtered spots.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can you elaborate? In my build I have the front intake (pulling air over a rad from outside) and I have the rear fan as intake with just the Top fans as exhaust (pushing through my top Rad)
> 
> Seeing what you are getting at on the all intake theory or just sarcasm?


theory being positive case air pressure = denser air = added cooling capacity
so push as much air into the case it has the added benefit of dust not getting sucked into your case through little crevasses
but I would always recommend top air case duct to be exhaust


----------



## Dizzmal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> That build looks great, man. Excellent rigid tubing and color scheme. I have a question about your multi-GPU connection... I notice that you decided to use Crystal links rather than a bridge, and I think I might go with a similar setup. I see that you have two connections between your cards, as well as an inlet and outlet (in from top and out from the bottom. My question is this:
> 
> When connecting two gpu's in a loop, is it ok to have two tubes connecting them (as you have), as long as there is only one inlet into the GPU's and one outlet from them? In other words, I like the aesthetics of having two connections linking the GPU blocks in the loop, but I worry that it might create an endless loop within the two cards, or else drastically reduce the flow rates... I am sure it doesn't, but I wonder if you or someone else might explain the physics of this connection (basically a parallel as opposed to serial connection, right?).
> 
> To further clarify: if I had a tube res with multiple inlets and outlets connected in the loop, it would create a flow direction problem. I guess I'm just having a tough time visualizing it, but why is this not an issue with linking GPU's in the manner that you have?
> 
> Thanks for any insight into this,
> 
> Carson


just remember that it will take the path of the least resistance. Once the flow enters both cards it's cools both cards then exits and goes to the next item.


----------



## nfbsabc

PC Desk


----------



## Beaker076

Looks great. Nice and clean.


----------



## phillyd

Anybody used the new Alphacool NexXxos GPX blocks? I am getting one for my new 290x, and I wanted to see what you guys thought.


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nfbsabc*
> 
> PC Desk


Wow..nice WC wood desk pc.








Btw.. Waitress.. orange juice please..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All intake..all day.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you elaborate? In my build I have the front intake (pulling air over a rad from outside) and I have the rear fan as intake with just the Top fans as exhaust (pushing through my top Rad)
> 
> Seeing what you are getting at on the all intake theory or just sarcasm?
Click to expand...

All intake=Rads all get the coolest possible air.
Feeding a rad recycled air that is pre warmed by another rad lowers the performance,you want all the inlet air temps to be as low as possible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can you elaborate? In my build I have the front intake (pulling air over a rad from outside) and I have the rear fan as intake with just the Top fans as exhaust (pushing through my top Rad)
> 
> Seeing what you are getting at on the all intake theory or just sarcasm?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> theory being positive case *air pressure = denser air = added cooling capacity*
> so push as much air into the case it has the added benefit of dust not getting sucked into your case through little crevasses
> but I would always recommend top air case duct to be exhaust
Click to expand...

It doesnt work like that,see above.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> theory being positive case air pressure = denser air = added cooling capacity
> so push as much air into the case it has the added benefit of dust not getting sucked into your case through little crevasses
> but I would always recommend top air case duct to be exhaust


density is a non-factor with desktop fans. if you're using an intercooler that's fed by an automotive supercharger that's another matter - but so is the heat resulting from compressing air.
FWIW i have my top rad fans set as intakes. this feeds my radiator the coldest air possible, keeps the intake as far from the floor as possible (reduced dust intake), and conveniently cools one of the VRM heatsinks with air fresh from the radiator. my 4.14GHz i7 is sitting at 45C right now under 75% load (dual 120mm fan rad).

as for radiators as exhausts:
if you don't use all your radiators as intakes, you need to make sure that you're not exhausting hot air through a final stage radiator. you basically end up building a cross flow heat exchanger, and should plumb the hottest water into the radiator that sees the hottest air, and the radiators that feed back into the loop first see the coldest air - otherwise you can make a radiator (or radiators) 100% pointless.

Crossflow heat exchangers are used in air exchange systems sold for home and commercial use (and for strange packaging requirements in engineered systems among other things). the number I see quoted the most is 70% - that's 70% of the thermal energy exhausted out of the house can be returned to the incoming air - great for not heating the outdoors/saving money on your heating bill - terrible for cooling your loop.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It will if you don't have any filters on intakes. Otherwise, positive pressure will not let any dust from other non filtered spots.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> theory being positive case air pressure = denser air = added cooling capacity
> so push as much air into the case it has the added benefit of dust not getting sucked into your case through little crevasses
> but I would always recommend top air case duct to be exhaust


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All intake=Rads all get the coolest possible air.
> Feeding a rad recycled air that is pre warmed by another rad lowers the performance,you want all the inlet air temps to be as low as possible.
> It doesnt work like that,see above.


I got a probably stupid question but if you have all rads as intake doesnt that essentially make your case one big vacuum?

Even with fan filters that a hell of a lot of air going in and very little air coming out, I thought you needed at least a quarter of your case fans being out takes to keep the air pressure positive/neutral


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It will if you don't have any filters on intakes. Otherwise, positive pressure will not let any dust from other non filtered spots.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> theory being positive case air pressure = denser air = added cooling capacity
> so push as much air into the case it has the added benefit of dust not getting sucked into your case through little crevasses
> but I would always recommend top air case duct to be exhaust
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All intake=Rads all get the coolest possible air.
> Feeding a rad recycled air that is pre warmed by another rad lowers the performance,you want all the inlet air temps to be as low as possible.
> It doesnt work like that,see above.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I got a probably stupid question but if you have all rads as intake doesnt that essentially make your case one big vacuum?
> 
> Even with fan filters that a hell of a lot of air going in and very little air coming out, I thought you needed at least a quarter of your case fans being out takes to keep the air pressure positive/neutral
Click to expand...

 Not a stupid question. it depends on your layout, case layout and compartmentalization , rads and placement, and fan configuration/type/capabilities. The arrangement of intake /exhaust is not always intuitive.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Not a stupid question. it depends on your layout, case layout and compartmentalization , rads and placement, and fan configuration/type/capabilities. The arrangement of intake /exhaust is not always intuitive.


My setup is pretty simple, SM5, AX360 in the room AX240 in the front, 10 AP-15s (push / pull) & a single AP-15 on the back

Seeing my rigs apart for another couple of weeks I might just set the fans up in different ways, run them at 12v and see what happens dust wise

Edit, BNEG do you run all your rads on intake or something


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It will if you don't have any filters on intakes. Otherwise, positive pressure will not let any dust from other non filtered spots.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> theory being positive case air pressure = denser air = added cooling capacity
> so push as much air into the case it has the added benefit of dust not getting sucked into your case through little crevasses
> but I would always recommend top air case duct to be exhaust
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All intake=Rads all get the coolest possible air.
> Feeding a rad recycled air that is pre warmed by another rad lowers the performance,you want all the inlet air temps to be as low as possible.
> It doesnt work like that,see above.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I got a probably stupid question but if you have all rads as intake doesnt that essentially make your case one big vacuum?
> 
> Even with fan filters that a hell of a lot of air going in and very little air coming out, I thought you needed at least a quarter of your case fans being out takes to keep the air pressure positive/neutral
Click to expand...

Air will always find a place to escape and the exhaust fan will have an easy time of it.
As for pressure inside the case,its in the millibars....nothing to get excited about,its not like its in PSI.

Experiment and look for yourself.
Aircooling needs directed airflow thru the case to keep in interior as cool as possible for the heatsinks to do their job,watercooling...less so.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Experiment and look for yourself.
> Aircooling needs directed airflow thru the case to keep in interior as cool as possible for the heatsinks to do their job,watercooling...less so.


Yeah I will, was just curious to see what you guys said. I'm surprised how well watercooling actually cools, my loop I just pulled apart kept my CPU (@stock) under 60° load even with my 290 at almost 90°









If I was to do both rads as intake then my back fan as exhaust would that cause heaps of dust?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Experiment and look for yourself.
> Aircooling needs directed airflow thru the case to keep in interior as cool as possible for the heatsinks to do their job,watercooling...less so.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I will, was just curious to see what you guys said. I'm surprised how well watercooling actually cools, my loop I just pulled apart kept my CPU (@stock) under 60° load even with my 290 at almost 90°
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to do both rads as intake then my back fan as exhaust would that cause heaps of dust?
Click to expand...

No.
You will have to clean your rads more tho,the fronts will get dusty as they become the filter.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No.
> You will have to clean your rads more tho,the fronts will get dusty as they become the filter.


Well my rads shouldnt get to dusty, I run all my fans on 5v (only a 6° - 7° difference between 5v & 12v







) and have fan filters on all of them









Suppose I'll setup my fans over the next few days and run it at 12v for a while to see how dusty it gets in each setup


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nfbsabc*
> 
> PC Desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The fact that you can see the return tubes to the left end of the res's, and coolant exiting them, indicates that they can't work as they should.

Hopefully, the rise at the rear panel passthru helps limit the backsiphon effect.

It's a lot of work and looks really clean, but the tubes should be below the coolant level to work as intended.

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nfbsabc*
> 
> PC Desk
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks sick, but Darlene is correct about the fluid level in the res's, but in all love the layout of the build and makes me want to dig into doing a scratch desk build myself so I don't have to worry about the newest addition to the family getting into it







lol

figured a way to hide my water temp gauge on Frankenstein but still be able to see it thanks to some front bay covers off of a Thermaltake V3 case


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I like much better than the last.....


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Ive been working on my first water cooled build for a little while now (link to build log HERE ) and wanted to get some input. I figured since this thread gets a good amount of traffic I might get more responses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm simply trying to choose between having the "nickel" plated thumb screws for the supremacy cpu block redone locally to better match my build, or painting the thumb screws black.


Black.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like much better than the last.....


Definitely better.


----------



## psycho84




----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*


 so many QDCs


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Nickel for sure. They match with the block and all other shiny surfaces


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> I vote nickel as well


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Black, a tad more conservative and to me looks cleaner


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If you decide to go nickel, I would seriously consider buying the EK Supremacy Elite Nickel-bracket too, I bought if for almost nothing and it makes everything looks much cleaner (I think I paid 12 USD for it), then you will get rid of that "black-ish" look in the middle of the EK-Supremacy and you will have a more thorough nickel-theme at the center of your motherboard. Just a tips!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it comes to availability, I just asked one of the Norwegian suppliers to get me it directly from EKWB and there seemed to be no problem, I am sure anybody else would help you out if you just ask for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the Nickel-bracket with my EK-Supremacy Full Nickel (perfect match by the way).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> I've always just loved the clean nickel blocks that EK puts out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will vote to keep the mounting hardware black. It'll let the nickel aspects of your build shine more, and they'll contrast more from the darkness.
> 
> -Zepp


Thank all you guys for the feedback, It's appreciated.









Still on the fence as nickel will definitely match, but thinking less might be more in this case. As I continue getting parts back I'll post more pictures to get a better idea of how everything will fit together.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nickel or black thumb caps issue...

Go with Nickel Intel bracket and black thumb caps. It'll make that block pop.

I'm kinda surprised that nobody else had that thought.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nfbsabc*
> 
> PC Desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Two things...

1) Your tubing work is ridiculously awesomesauce.









2) As pointed out, MOAR coolant. Fill those bad boys up.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Experiment and look for yourself.
> Aircooling needs directed airflow thru the case to keep in interior as cool as possible for the heatsinks to do their job,watercooling...less so.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I will, was just curious to see what you guys said. I'm surprised how well watercooling actually cools, my loop I just pulled apart kept my CPU (@stock) under 60° load even with my 290 at almost 90°
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to do both rads as intake then my back fan as exhaust would that cause heaps of dust?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No.
> You will have to clean your rads more tho,the fronts will get dusty as they become the filter.
Click to expand...

I think that I'm likely to continue running exhaust with the top 360 and run Intake with the lower 200. I plan to completely block off the back of my build since I won't be running a dedicated exhaust. It's worked just fine with the single 360 and the front fan. And with the top being modded I really won't be able to have a filter up top and while I do have a filter for the 200, the iFlex filter isn't full coverage like it should be. So dust will continue to be an issue until I get a mag filter of the correct size in place of it. I figure visually it's an inch short maybe more.









Also modding the doors to remove those gawdawvul HDD vents. That is one thing that I don't get why CM put them on a HAF case. Makes no sense considering their placement of the HDD cage(that I have already removed) in front of that b.a. 200 intake fan. All they do is suck dust into the case and there are no filters for that in the filter kits.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

I known this have been reported before but still amaze me the quality of the build and how clean HWlabs rads are. Yesterday was cleaning the rads for the final assembly of "chessboard" and after the classic warm water/shake flush several times in teh XSPC rx v3 (480 mm) and HWLAbs SR-1 (560 mm) I was happy with both (very few debris came out and HWlabs was really almost nothing). However, since I am planning on use pastel or Aurora 2 I decided to go ahead and give it a go with Mahyems Blits Pro. Again, HWlabs came out after a 10 hours bath with the first part with clean liquid and almost no suspension (didn't take a picture since there was nothing there to be seen) at all while xspc have a lot of gunk and suspension on it (pictures below) and the liquid was blueish:





I guess is







HWlabs.




details in the Cheesboard log.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is the EKWB M6G Mosfet the same as the M7G? will it work on the M7G? i found on for cheap locally and need to know..


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is the EKWB M6G Mosfet the same as the M7G? will it work on the M7G? i found on for cheap locally and need to know..


Nope. It doesn't fit I tried it and I have a m6g MOSFET block rotting here in a drawer.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Nope. It doesn't fit I tried it and I have a m6g MOSFET block rotting here in a drawer.


Damn, thought id save a couple bucks! lol


----------



## Ceadderman

I would advise to dismiss any and all thoughts of crossing blocks over board generations. It's not like the past where you could do something like that and get away with it. Someone in the Crosshair IV group suggested using CVF on a CIVF and it's just not possible. The layout just won't allow it. About the only way you can get one block to work with multiple boards is if it is a universal block. I guess maybe you could mod a block but that's a waste of money imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/idn42vwij

Mayhems Havoc 480 mm Radiator

Is this a restamped RX rad?, just asking (don't kill me if it's not mayhems).


----------



## VSG

You've missed all the drama in the Mayhems thread. Anyway, I think it's for them to settle it out in private unless someone proves in public beyond any doubt.


----------



## khemist

Meh, OK!.


----------



## ozzy1925

i would like to buy gskill ddr4 ram sticks and change the heatspreaders with ek monarch modules but after seing this:
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=27117871#post27117871
i am afraid of doing the same on very expensive stuff is there any trick?I will use the hair dryer


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i would like to buy gskill ddr4 ram sticks and change the heatspreaders with ek monarch modules but after seing this:
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=27117871#post27117871
> i am afraid of doing the same on very expensive stuff is there any trick?I will use the hair dryer


I'm thinking they came off directly after being fiddled with while warm. Cuz that's not normal.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i would like to buy gskill ddr4 ram sticks and change the heatspreaders with ek monarch modules but after seing this:
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=27117871#post27117871
> i am afraid of doing the same on very expensive stuff is there any trick?I will use the hair dryer


Get one of those on the value series from Gskill. They come without the heat spreader already







Makes life easier:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build#post_23078642

Mounting the monarch heat spreader on it.

Looks like I missed all the fun over there too.







I hope they sort it out but I would be curious to see the two rads cut side by side as @B NEGATIVE mention there he was doing. BTW, amazing marble/granite effect on the painting job B neg


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nfbsabc*
> 
> PC Desk


Lovin the orange man...


----------



## Jakewat

@nfbsabc
Great build you have there. I am really interested in your custom res mount and would like to know: did you design it yourself and get it professionally cut? (like with CAD software), or did you make it by yourself?

To anyone else reading this, I'm very interested in making a midplate with channels through it and would like to know if I would need to get it professionally cut with CNC, or if it would be possible to do it myself.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm thinking they came off directly after being fiddled with while warm. Cuz that's not normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Should i heat it untill the heatspreaders are very hot?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Get one of those on the value series from Gskill. They come without the heat spreader already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes life easier:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build#post_23078642
> 
> Mounting the monarch heat spreader on it.


yes,but only you want lower speeds


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Should i heat it untill the heatspreaders are very hot?
> yes,but only you want lower speeds


I think ddr4 scales well but can't say for sure until the loop is up and been tuned for oc


----------



## ThornTwist

@nfbsabc will not answer, He only posts once in a great while and most of the time its just new builds he has made.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Ive been working on my first water cooled build for a little while now (link to build log HERE ) and wanted to get some input. I figured since this thread gets a good amount of traffic I might get more responses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm simply trying to choose between having the "nickel" plated thumb screws for the supremacy cpu block redone locally to better match my build, or painting the thumb screws black.
> 
> Here are a couple of pictures and input would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...alman v1/20141101_164547_zpse0c6f091.jpg.html
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...n v1/20141101_164334_HDR_zps99f19970.jpg.html
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...n v1/20141101_164317_HDR_zps1ff48117.jpg.html


I'm so tired of the excessive (and sometime tasteless) use of nickel that I would recommend you go with black.

I would allow nickel to show only on the interesting bits (like that beautiful XSPC block and those Dominators). I would use black fittings on black surfaces (like the inlet/outled on the mobo block) and leave the beautiful nickel fittings on the processor (with black thumb screws).

That's just me. I find excessive nickel/painting to be a bit glaring. Sometimes you want to call attention only to certain parts of the build and leave the rest hidden, giving it a more clean, sleek look.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You've missed all the drama in the Mayhems thread. Anyway, I think it's for them to settle it out in private unless someone proves in public beyond any doubt.


The rad that he is only sending to 4 testers because he thinks people will skew the results?
Testers that no doubt are very easily influenced....

Either way,my angle grinder doesn't care....im going to carve one up like a pig.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Another annoying dumb question









If I was to have my fans set like so...

Blue = intake rads, Red = exhaust fan & PSU



Is that what some of you guys ment by "all fans as intake"?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Another annoying dumb question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to have my fans set like so...
> 
> Blue = intake rads, Red = exhaust fan & PSU
> 
> 
> 
> Is that what some of you guys ment by "all fans as intake"?


Yes. And they have me convinced to do it now too. Right now I have my top panel radiator as exhaust but I've seen the wisdom of the setup in your diagram.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Another annoying dumb question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to have my fans set like so...
> 
> Blue = intake rads, Red = exhaust fan & PSU
> 
> 
> 
> Is that what some of you guys ment by "all fans as intake"?


Yup,exactly that.


----------



## ThornTwist

Uhhh, I must be misunderstanding something because I would think the top red fan should be going the other way. What am I missing here?

Edit: Ok I'm an idiot who just can't read. Just curious why do you need an exhaust at all?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,exactly that.


I understand Now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> Uhhh, I must be misunderstanding something because I would think the top red fan should be going the other way. What am I missing here?
> 
> Edit: Ok I'm an idiot who just can't read. Just curious why do you need an exhaust at all?


ALL fans for Rad's should have intake from outside. Having the Exhaust from them inside the case would allow your rear fan in the case to be exhausting them as to not have any warm air from the Rads be recirculated through your core components (Radiators)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The rad that he is only sending to 4 testers because he thinks people will skew the results?
> Testers that no doubt are very easily influenced....
> 
> Either way,my angle grinder doesn't care....im going to carve one up like a pig.


I believe 2 OCNers are getting them- Fast_Fate on behalf of ER and me. So I'd like to say at least 50% will be fair


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Another annoying dumb question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to have my fans set like so...
> 
> Blue = intake rads, Red = exhaust fan & PSU
> 
> 
> 
> Is that what some of you guys ment by "all fans as intake"?


And if you are placing a rad on the bottom too that can be a intake as well. The only exhaust would be the fan on the back of the case (and all crevasses and holes in the case which will also exhaust air due to positive pressure).


----------



## nfbsabc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The fact that you can see the return tubes to the left end of the res's, and coolant exiting them, indicates that they can't work as they should.
> 
> Hopefully, the rise at the rear panel passthru helps limit the backsiphon effect.
> 
> It's a lot of work and looks really clean, but the tubes should be below the coolant level to work as intended.
> 
> Darlene


OK! thanks for your advice.
I will try it later.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nickel or black thumb caps issue...
> 
> Go with Nickel Intel bracket and black thumb caps. It'll make that block pop.
> 
> I'm kinda surprised that nobody else had that thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two things...
> 
> 1) Your tubing work is ridiculously awesomesauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) As pointed out, MOAR coolant. Fill those bad boys up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that I'm likely to continue running exhaust with the top 360 and run Intake with the lower 200. I plan to completely block off the back of my build since I won't be running a dedicated exhaust. It's worked just fine with the single 360 and the front fan. And with the top being modded I really won't be able to have a filter up top and while I do have a filter for the 200, the iFlex filter isn't full coverage like it should be. So dust will continue to be an issue until I get a mag filter of the correct size in place of it. I figure visually it's an inch short maybe more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also modding the doors to remove those gawdawvul HDD vents. That is one thing that I don't get why CM put them on a HAF case. Makes no sense considering their placement of the HDD cage(that I have already removed) in front of that b.a. 200 intake fan. All they do is suck dust into the case and there are no filters for that in the filter kits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for you replay.
Because i want see the water flow so i don't fill up all reservoir.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> @nfbsabc
> Great build you have there. I am really interested in your custom res mount and would like to know: did you design it yourself and get it professionally cut? (like with CAD software), or did you make it by yourself?
> 
> To anyone else reading this, I'm very interested in making a midplate with channels through it and would like to know if I would need to get it professionally cut with CNC, or if it would be possible to do it myself.


I just design it by CAD and get it for CNC cut, but the screws are made by myself.




====
radiator mount position


loop direction


----------



## ThornTwist

Edit. That is a beautiful set up man. Now I get why you have the pump going to your CPU block first.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> ALL fans for Rad's should have intake from outside. Having the Exhaust from them inside the case would allow your rear fan in the case to be exhausting them as to not have any warm air from the Rads be recirculated through your core components (Radiators)


So it ends up being a ratio where the positive pressure dense air gain is not enough to offset the heat from the radiators. Got it Thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The rad that he is only sending to 4 testers because he thinks people will skew the results?
> Testers that no doubt are very easily influenced....
> 
> Either way,my angle grinder doesn't care....im going to carve one up like a pig.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe 2 OCNers are getting them- Fast_Fate on behalf of ER and me. So I'd like to say at least 50% will be fair
Click to expand...

Lol,that's 2 at least.
Stren is sending me love messages,"herp a derp,don't be mean about reviewers"....


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,that's 2 at least.
> Stren is sending me love messages,"herp a derp,don't be mean about reviewers"....


What I was trying to say was that it's not cool to hint to everyone about bias from unnamed reviewers. Don't hint about accusations, be specific about who and what you mean otherwise you tar everyone with the same brush







I work hard to annoy manufcaturers be objective and forum readers don't know who you are talking about


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I believe 2 OCNers are getting them- Fast_Fate on behalf of ER and me. So I'd like to say at least 50% will be fair


Yeah, at least 50% will be fair on fast_fate side







Great VSG, glad you two are getting this. But what I am waiting with







is to see Magoo Angle grinder in action


----------



## Mayhem

Mr Neg if you would like one you only need to ask .... Mind you XSPC minions are kind of hard to please. When are you going to stop using this section of the site as your own soapbox it kind of bring a sour tone to the place.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,that's 2 at least.
> Stren is sending me love messages,"herp a derp,don't be mean about reviewers"....
> 
> 
> 
> What I was trying to say was that it's not cool to hint to everyone about bias from unnamed reviewers. Don't hint about accusations, be specific about who and what you mean otherwise you tar everyone with the same brush
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,myI work hard to annoy manufcaturers be objective and forum readers don't know who you are talking about
Click to expand...

Stren,I know you are a good tester,we have talked on this before,my comment was more about the underhand way Mick operates.

And,I can guarantee no one will answer the question we want answered. You may not be concerned with IP issues but I very much am,no one likes a cheat.
However,if XSPC are lying to me and the community then I am going to bring the shock and awe on them,the same as if Mick was found to be lying.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mr Neg if you would like one you only need to ask .... Mind you XSPC minions are kind of hard to please. Mahahahahahaha


If you're giving them away....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mr Neg if you would like one you only need to ask .... Mind you XSPC minions are kind of hard to please. Mahahahahahaha


I'm not an XSPC minion Mick,I don't use XSPC products,however,I don't want the community being lied to,from either party.
Cut the BS and explain the identical nature of the rads.

You also conveniently forget that I was excited that you had a new rad in the works,except that its not is it? A few baffles and a Alibaba special side panel is not a new rad.


----------



## Mayhem

There is nothing to Hide. B-Neg you were told the truth this is a simple account of what's happend.->

1) They Rads are made in the same factory that paul from XSPC left and is where the RX 2 was made. Why he left has nothing to do with me or anyone else even though i do know why.

2) Tooling in the early stages of development unbeknown to us was XSPC (pauls) (we later found out it was when paul contacted us). This was frustrating to say the least.

3) Paul asked us to re tool so we did (we have full receipts and designs). We did some slight design changes externally so that we didn't cross path in any legal suits.

4) The internal design is our own and obviously so is the 9 FPI.

5) paul got annoyed and sent out a BS email saying we've copied him which was quite interesting because he knows its not the truth. We have All the emails and all the info from 3rd parties as well.

This is a cut down quick 1,2,3 account of what's happened.

So As Per the 2d/3D design rights within the UK we've broken no laws, copied no one and not used Pauls tooling which is what he is most upset about (i do not blame him for that feeling nither as i would feel the same). As ive said to him in previous emails hes having a go at the wrong people. I wont go into any personal grudges or past mistakes because they have been learnt from. It would have been great to work with paul how ever that will now never happen unless someone stops changing the goal posts.

If you wish for a Rad you can have one. Its pointless. they are the same size, they look a little different as in shape and also the side plates have our logo on and our tooling impressions. Basicly its our legally.

The baffles, external tanks are different and if you wish to see them then either cut open a rad (which will be a shame) or ask me to post what we have done so you wont need to cut one open.

There is no real drama its law and hes in the wrong and he knows it. Like ive been wrong in the past and had to suck it up.

You did point out i some thing which i corrected ref the naming of the split fin convention which we have now changed and corrected.

what would you like next? As for testing ill leave that to the pros.

On another note: this isn't the right place to post it we should have a separate thread if needs be. If you stick to facts and do not bring in anything personal about all of this then they speak for themselves. Tests will show there is a difference between the RX 2 and The Havoc.

There is nothing to hide there is no conspiracy


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,that's 2 at least.
> Stren is sending me love messages,"herp a derp,don't be mean about reviewers"....


I have completed the my testing on XSPC RX V2 already.
Can't wait for the Havoc to arrive and get comparison data out for you guys.

When I'm testing, I test and report data - there is no bias in the reporting.
Maybe sometimes a test set-up may favor one product over another, but if the test set-up and process is constant throughout, any perceived bias by the reader can be justifiably argued against.
I try to remain un-opinionated when writing up, preferring to keep factual


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm not an XSPC minion Mick,I don't use XSPC products,however,I don't want the community being lied to,from either party.
> Cut the BS and explain the identical nature of the rads.
> 
> You also conveniently forget that I was excited that you had a new rad in the works,except that its not is it? A few baffles and a Alibaba special side panel is not a new rad.

















AND THERE WAS A FIREFIGHT!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

They were serial crushed by some friggin huge guy, lol


----------



## ThornTwist

Sweet and low... LOL.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nickel or black thumb caps issue...
> 
> Go with Nickel Intel bracket and black thumb caps. It'll make that block pop.
> 
> I'm kinda surprised that nobody else had that thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two things...
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> I'm so tired of the excessive (and sometime tasteless) use of nickel that I would recommend you go with black.
> 
> I would allow nickel to show only on the interesting bits (like that beautiful XSPC block and those Dominators). I would use black fittings on black surfaces (like the inlet/outled on the mobo block) and leave the beautiful nickel fittings on the processor (with black thumb screws).
> 
> That's just me. I find excessive nickel/painting to be a bit glaring. Sometimes you want to call attention only to certain parts of the build and leave the rest hidden, giving it a more clean, sleek look.


Thanks for the input guys.







I definitely don't want to make it overdone in any one area. So like I mentioned in my build thread, I think this time around less might be more.


----------



## Tyco

Think I´ll join the Club


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yes. And they have me convinced to do it now too. Right now I have my top panel radiator as exhaust but I've seen the wisdom of the setup in your diagram.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,exactly that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> And if you are placing a rad on the bottom too that can be a intake as well. The only exhaust would be the fan on the back of the case (and all crevasses and holes in the case which will also exhaust air due to positive pressure).


Thanks guys









Should be getting my new tubing and stuff this week







hope I put my GPU block and backplate on right


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyco*
> 
> Think I´ll join the Club


Nice looking setup.









What are the specs ?


----------



## CaliLife17

So got my EK Res Adapter for the Dual D5 top. Got it attached to my top, but i noticed the Anti-vortex EK symbol doesn't fit corretly. The slot cut out in the res adapter is much wider then the cut out slot in the standard reservoir bottom, so the Anti-vortex just leans and is super loose in there. Has anyone had this issue where it doesnt fit?

I can take pictures of it tonight when i get home.


----------



## phillyd

So I've got a challenge for you guys.

Is it possible to effectively cool 4x 780's and an i7 in a Corsair Air 540? No overclocking, no external rads. Any ideas?


----------



## cire92cry

My pc


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So I've got a challenge for you guys.
> 
> Is it possible to effectively cool 4x 780's and an i7 in a Corsair Air 540? No overclocking, no external rads. Any ideas?


I don't see why not, there should be plenty of room for rads and components in the 540


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So I've got a challenge for you guys.
> 
> Is it possible to effectively cool 4x 780's and an i7 in a Corsair Air 540? No overclocking, no external rads. Any ideas?


First of all, depens on which 780s you got (do you mean GTX 780 or GTX 780 Ti), because if I recall correctly the GTX 780 does not support 4-way SLI by default (I am sure some minor mods does it though). The same goes for the i7, lots of difference between a 5960X and a 4790K. Tell us more.

I have the Air 540 myself and I would say that is not a good case for water cooling, too little space for that many radiators that you are (probably) going to need for a system like that. Running 4930K and 4x R9 290X myself in that case I know that dual 480s won't cut it with your hardware either. I would suggest getting a bigger case that actually can handle the water cooling that you will need to use for such a setup. Then again, EK-PE radiators with Gentle Typhoon AP30 could do wonders (if you have no ears or does not care about sound).









The maximum amount of radiators you can possible get (inside) the Air 540 is 2x 240s and 1x 360 with modded bottom of the case. Perhaps you could squeeze in something in the "backroom", but I have my doubts about it, I have worked a lot with that case (modifying it) and there is some problems with it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So I've got a challenge for you guys.
> 
> Is it possible to effectively cool 4x 780's and an i7 in a Corsair Air 540? No overclocking, no external rads. Any ideas?


Yes.
I have seen 2011 chip and 3 780 ti's on a single 280 with reasonable temps so a pair of 240's will do the job...its not ideal tho.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So I've got a challenge for you guys.
> 
> Is it possible to effectively cool 4x 780's and an i7 in a Corsair Air 540? No overclocking, no external rads. Any ideas?


That heavily depends too on the expectation of the user in terms of temperatures (water temp and consequently GPU and CPU temps). From the corsair specs you can fit a 280 mm rad, one 360mm and another 140 mm read. So that would give you 6 fans (3 x 120 and 3x 140) to 5 blocks...My guess is don't expect a great performance (like a delta of 5 degrees between ambient and water temp) but it might be doable if the user is willing to have a loop with a large delta (perhaps on the 15-20 degrees range - just a wild guess here). Hope it helps.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Really love the Black/Red LD Cooling PC-V8, the quality is super and the amount of space inside this beast is just incredible. 2x 1300W PSU's, 2x 480 Monsta's and still there is place for lots of SSDs and HDDs. Love this case!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So I've got a challenge for you guys.
> 
> Is it possible to effectively cool 4x 780's and an i7 in a Corsair Air 540? No overclocking, no external rads. Any ideas?


Nvidia limits GTX 780s to 3-way SLI, unless you want to use a hacked driver from a bygone era that doesn't have SLI support for the latest titles.


----------



## nismoskyline

Don't you hate that moment when you're all excited to finish you're build.. and then you forgot 1 fitting









actually it wasn't even a fitting... just a 10mm extender.

sadpanda


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Don't you hate that moment when you're all excited to finish you're build.. and then you forgot 1 fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> actually it wasn't even a fitting... just a 10mm extender.
> 
> sadpanda


Use hard-tubing, then you do not need extenders. Simple solution.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Use hard-tubing, then you do not need extenders. Simple solution.


b-b-b-but my spaghetti









maybe it's just me, but I really still like the look of soft tubing.. especially in the 800d, (what i'm using), never seen a build with hard tubing in it that I liked


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> b-b-b-but my spaghetti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe it's just me, but I really still like the look of soft tubing.. especially in the 800d, (what i'm using), never seen a build with hard tubing in it that I liked


I do not like acrylic tubing at all.

Copper tubing (both only-copper and chrome plated), fitting-only-loops and clear soft tube is the only things for me. (Have done all three).


----------



## Hefner

Hello folks,

I remember reading that using a 90° on the inlet of a DDC pump will significantly reduce performance because it causes imbalance to the impeller. Does the same apply for D5 pumps?

Thanks


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Hello folks,
> 
> I remember reading that using a 90° on the inlet of a DDC pump will significantly reduce performance because it causes imbalance to the impeller. Does the same apply for D5 pumps?
> 
> Thanks


I'm running a 90' on the inlet, and I have seen many others do it. My pump is pefectly fine and dead quiet. I can't say much beyond that though.

I think just as a general good idea, it'd be better to get the 90' fittings that are more gradual than actual sharp 90' turn.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I'm running a 90' on the inlet, and I have seen many others do it. My pump is pefectly fine and dead quiet. I can't say much beyond that though.
> 
> I think just as a general good idea, it'd be better to get the 90' fittings that are more gradual than actual sharp 90' turn.


Performance impact is probably negligible, but I'd still like to know whether it is present(if actually) on both types of pumps.


----------



## pc-illiterate

martin said to avoid it if you can. if you use a 90* elbow, try to have the same length away from the pump as the *diameter*(?) of the fitting. i believe thats what he said.
from what i saw and the way i read it, it may have a performance impact but there are too many using them to say it hurts.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> ... for those that like speaking in "Degrees", adding an elbow to your pump inlet or outlet is about equivalent to a 0.05C temperature loss. Probably not something to worry about much.


Quote:


> While I used to be a skeptic about installation of elbows on pumps, I'm not so worried about it now. At least with your typical DDC top with reduced inlet opening, the larger ID Bitspower elbows do not seem to cause much more than a little restriction which is not going to add up to more than a tenth of a degree and really not worth worrying about.


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/05/elbow-impacts-on-pump-performance/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Performance impact is probably negligible, but I'd still like to know whether it is present(if actually) on both types of pumps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> martin said to avoid it if you can. if you use a 90* elbow, try to have the same length away from the pump as the *diameter*(?) of the fitting. i believe thats what he said.
> from what i saw and the way i read it, it may have a performance impact but there are too many using them to say it hurts.


Yep, the problem I think is not the performance per se but the effect of varying to much the "feeding" of the pump due to a very close bend on the inlet which will cause more noise...Anyway I was curious and was with the test bed set up finishing cleaning my rads for the "chessboard" build and decided to take a look. The detailed results will be on the community water cooling testing thread. Here a couple of pictures and the conclusions




the ghetto floor test bed:




Bottom line, The added 90 degrees add some variation (example flow would vary from 1.942 GPM to 1.984 GPM with the 90 degrees while will stay at 1.984 with the compression fitting without the 90) in the overall flow and a tiny drop in perfomance (almost negligible but still measurable). The concern I think is more on the variation on the feeding of the pump due to the 90 degrees and potential noise attached to doing that way. At least that was my subjective impression that with the 90 degrees I could hear some noise coming from the inlet of the pump...

edit- Don't mind the rpm in the pictures...Is some sort of bug from Aquasuite + d5 USB. The % was the same in both comparisons and you can read the flow coming from the readings on the MPS 400.

edit 2- Also notice that 1.984 is pretty close to the upper limit of the MPS400 which is 2.042 GPM in my particular unit calibrated to 3/8 bitspower fittings.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So got my Norprene, clamps and killcoil









The Norprene fits almost as tight as 7/16" tube on my current Bitspower 1/2" barbs







I didnt expect that, I'll still use the clamps just for the peace of mind but it was a big surprise, also had to expand the killcoil a little so it wouldnt accidentally drop into my pump

Should be able to get my loop back together in a week or so when I finish resleeving my fans and mod my lights


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I know many people do get away with a 90 degree inlet fitting, but I thought doing so came at some risk even more so than just some increased noise or a minor performance hit.

Haven't there been a few posts way back in this thread or possibly on some other watercooling threads where cavitation was thought to be the most likely culprit in damaging a pump that was thought to have occurred due to a 90 deg fitting on the inlet? Am I misremembering that? I gave a cursory search but couldn't find one of them but I do remember something of the sort, even one person who had the same thing eat up his impeller on two pumps in a row before cavitation due to the inlet fitting was brought up, though not sure whether that was what came out of a group consensus or not.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i actually went looking cause it was driving me crazy

Systemlord says:
January 5, 2013 at 10:23 pm

Great review Martin, do you think the D5's would mimic your test here of fair worse?

Martinm210 says:
January 5, 2013 at 10:28 pm

Probably very similar. I have heard before that you should try to get 4x the ID in length between elbow and pump inlet as a rule of thumb. With a 10mm or so ID, the elbow itself has quite a bit of that just in the swivel plus whatever the pup top thickness is. I don't current have any recent D5 tops other than bay reservoirs to test that, but pretty comfortable this is similar for common D5 tops as well.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*





i actually went looking cause it was driving me crazy

Systemlord says:
January 5, 2013 at 10:23 pm

Great review Martin, do you think the D5's would mimic your test here of fair worse?

Martinm210 says:
January 5, 2013 at 10:28 pm

Probably very similar. I have heard before that you should try to get 4x the ID in length between elbow and pump inlet as a rule of thumb. With a 10mm or so ID, the elbow itself has quite a bit of that just in the swivel plus whatever the pup top thickness is. I don't current have any recent D5 tops other than bay reservoirs to test that, but pretty comfortable this is similar for common D5 tops as well.[/SPOILER]

Good to see I was not crazy... That's exactly what I observed an increase in difference as flow rate goes up. It also nice that the ~2% difference I measured with the pump at 90% is inline with those results.


----------



## nismoskyline

wooooo I need a new camera. well, I really need a camera, not my crappy cell phone

nearing completion. waiting on a few fittings to arrive. any thoughts?


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Another annoying dumb question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to have my fans set like so...
> 
> Blue = intake rads, Red = exhaust fan & PSU
> 
> 
> 
> Is that what some of you guys ment by "all fans as intake"?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,exactly that.
Click to expand...

This idea is starting to grow on me a little, it makes perfect sense if I had the typical x3 120mm fan rad up top and full cover water blocks.

this is how I made my top radiator selection, I have x2 180mm fan radiator up top

2x120mm fan rad = 288cm²
3x120mm fan rad = 432cm²
4x120mm fan rad = 576cm²
2x 180mm fan rad = 648cm²
5x120mm fan rad = 720cm²
2x200mm fan rad = 800cm²
I almost have same area of radiator a theoretical 4½120mm fan rad for a top rad, the largest possible I could fit.
I almost got a x2 200mm rad but I wasn't confident it would fit.

the way I have my loop set up is gpu>gpu>cpu>top rad>pump>bottom rad.

so that configuration my bottom rad is almost for aesthetics really probably removing pump heat and a pre cool before going through the loop again.
Because I .have universal GPU blocks I really need the coolest air possible going over my GPU/mobo vrms etc so I balanced the intake to be slightly more than exhaust. My exhaust being the top rad as it is the hot rad and why fight the natural path for hot air to take.

Any way I guess you got to do what works for your system components as a whole


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I know many people do get away with a 90 degree inlet fitting, but I thought doing so came at some risk even more so than just some increased noise or a minor performance hit.
> 
> Haven't there been a few posts way back in this thread or possibly on some other watercooling threads where cavitation was thought to be the most likely culprit in damaging a pump that was thought to have occurred due to a 90 deg fitting on the inlet? Am I misremembering that? I gave a cursory search but couldn't find one of them but I do remember something of the sort, even one person who had the same thing eat up his impeller on two pumps in a row before cavitation due to the inlet fitting was brought up, though not sure whether that was what came out of a group consensus or not.


Having had noisy D5's with inlet elbows,I would probably avoid it as general practise.
Seeing as the DDC stock top already has a 90 feeding it,it can't be a massive problem for that pump


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Damn you guys put heaps of thought into your watercooling loops, water pressure, flow rate etc









I just slap it all together and hope for the best









In saying that my loops pretty simple compared to most of you pump > CPU > GPU > 360 > 240 > pump but I am trying to maximize the cooling potential (QLD summers are a pita







) so I think I will go with BNEGs idea and do both rads as intake and deal with dust and crap as it comes (shouldnt be to much of a problem tho)

I do see the logic in having the rads as full intake instead of my old setup of one in one out









Edit, just noticed the debate about 90° on D5s, does it make them noisy if you have it on an outlet? and could a T fitting with a 90° on the inlet make it noisy? I have kind of an elaborate drain setup on my pump top


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> This idea is starting to grow on me a little, it makes perfect sense if I had the typical x3 120mm fan rad up top and full cover water blocks.
> 
> this is how I made my top radiator selection, I have x2 180mm fan radiator up top
> 
> 2x120mm fan rad = 288cm²
> 3x120mm fan rad = 432cm²
> 4x120mm fan rad = 576cm²
> 2x 180mm fan rad = 648cm²
> 5x120mm fan rad = 720cm²
> 2x200mm fan rad = 800cm²
> I almost have same area of radiator a theoretical 4½120mm fan rad for a top rad, the largest possible I could fit.
> I almost got a x2 200mm rad but I wasn't confident it would fit.
> 
> the way I have my loop set up is gpu>gpu>cpu>top rad>pump>bottom rad.
> 
> so that configuration my bottom rad is almost for aesthetics really probably removing pump heat and a pre cool before going through the loop again.
> Because I .have universal GPU blocks I really need the coolest air possible going over my GPU/mobo vrms etc so I balanced the intake to be slightly more than exhaust. My exhaust being the top rad as it is the hot rad and why fight the natural path for hot air to take.
> 
> Any way I guess you got to do what works for your system components as a whole


Its a common misconception that water comes out of blocks warm and out of radiators cooled back down. It really doesn't work that way in real life.
The water temp in the top rad and the bottom rad really won't be very different. Certainly not even close to being so different that one rad does all the work.

In a loop the blocks are absorbing X number of watts from the heat producing components. For that heat to escape the closed system the water has to warm up til the radiators are warm enough that they are venting the same X watts as the system is producing. An average 360 radiator needs to be 10C warmer than ambient air to dissipate 250W with 1500 RPM fans. With a few blocks and a couple of rads that can mean as an example that the Coolant has to reach 10C above ambient before watts generated is equal to watts being dissipated , but it is the whole water volume. The temp differences before and after individual blocks and radiators is much smaller in comparison. It takes about 260W to change water temp by 1C while it is flowing at an average rate of 4LPM / 1GPM

A universal block cooled GPU does indeed rely on airflow more than full cover blocks but, it might not be as clear cut a situation as it first appears. In the diagram above say there are two identical 360 rads on the front and the top.
If the front rad is intaking and the top exhausting ... The GPU's / Motherboard are getting 3 fans worth of airflow at a temp just below water temp.
If both rads are intaking ... The GPU's / Motherboard are getting 6 fans worth of airflow at a temp just below water temp ... but that water temp is slightly lower so the air they get is cooler too.
So in that example the cards / motherboard air sinks, actually get more airflow volume and at a slightly cooler temp.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Damn you guys put heaps of thought into your watercooling loops, water pressure, flow rate etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just slap it all together and hope for the best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In saying that my loops pretty simple compared to most of you pump > CPU > GPU > 360 > 240 > pump but I am trying to maximize the cooling potential (QLD summers are a pita
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so I think I will go with BNEGs idea and do both rads as intake and deal with dust and crap as it comes (shouldnt be to much of a problem tho)
> 
> I do see the logic in having the rads as full intake instead of my old setup of one in one out


its more about splitting hairs,all watercooling kit will perform equally well +/- a few degrees. As long as you have the rad you need,the rest is not so important.


----------



## MURDoctrine

**EDIT**

This was my own stupid doing. Apparently the night I installed the block I used my mouth to force some water/air through the system with one of the tubes since I didn't have a proper drain system at the time. Well that night IIRC I had water with a flavor additive in it that has notorious red food coloring. That apparently got into the loop from my mouth but wasn't strong enough to change the loops color. It probably separated on the hot waterblock like all the old crappy dyes we used to have. Problem solved and EK plating perfectly fine. Still loving this block.









Picture of the substance after wiping some away.



What it looked like on the paper towel I used.



Hmm I got to looking at my EK waterblock today and I think I might be having some issues. From the picture I just took it looks like the waterblock is actually a copper block but it is nickle plated. I use nothing but distilled water and was using a kill coil. I always used fresh distilled and just changed out the kill coil tonight with mayhems biocide and a new drain plug setup. I'm scared its a plating issue but looks more like something on the block. I see no flakes of anything and all the water has been clear. Also checked the pH levels of the water removed and put in and they are within the safe neutral limits. Next chance I have I'm going to break the loop down and check it out. It almost looks like rust or something on the block. I know the picture is bad but its the best I could do without overexposing it with the flash or light source.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> its more about splitting hairs,all watercooling kit will perform equally well +/- a few degrees. As long as you have the rad you need,the rest is not so important.


Totally this.

With modern gear it is relatively hard to go too wrong. It is really only optimisation and fine tuning.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I got a probably stupid question but if you have all rads as intake doesnt that essentially make your case one big vacuum?
> 
> Even with fan filters that a hell of a lot of air going in and very little air coming out, I thought you needed at least a quarter of your case fans being out takes to keep the air pressure positive/neutral


You don't need to pull air out of the case - simply providing it an adequate exit is sufficient. this is a pretty common setup on servers - I've seen more than a few that only have PSU fans, and then case fans - either on the back panel only, or in the drive cages. air flows - if you're pulling it out, it's being replaced, if you're pushing it in, it's getting out.

Don't forget that fans on rads move roughly half of their free-air rating. give or take a tad, probably take for most fans (that's the scientific answer).

BTW I don't run filters on my rads. I clean them with compressed air 1-2x a year. that seems to be plenty for my full-speed AP-15s.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Performance impact is probably negligible, but I'd still like to know whether it is present(if actually) on both types of pumps.


http://wwwf.imperial.ac.uk/ssherw/spectralhp/papers/HaemodelChapter.pdf

i was looking for something else, but that should cover it.

anyways I wouldn't worry about it too much. Radiators are full of 90 degree bends. that's what pumps are for, right?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> its more about splitting hairs,all watercooling kit will perform equally well +/- a few degrees. As long as you have the rad you need,the rest is not so important.


Ah ok








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> You don't need to pull air out of the case - simply providing it an adequate exit is sufficient. this is a pretty common setup on servers - I've seen more than a few that only have PSU fans, and then case fans - either on the back panel only, or in the drive cages. air flows - if you're pulling it out, it's being replaced, if you're pushing it in, it's getting out.
> 
> Don't forget that fans on rads move roughly half of their free-air rating. give or take a tad, probably take for most fans (that's the scientific answer).
> 
> BTW I don't run filters on my rads. I clean them with compressed air 1-2x a year. that seems to be plenty for my full-speed AP-15s.


Cool







, I can never remember how fans and pressure in a case works









Yeah I know fans on rads dont push at there full potential, still heaps tho








how can you not run filters? I run my fans on 5v and still have to clean the filters every few weeks







, then again I suppose my room does get pretty dusty but still


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Alphastool Monsta 480 that will be used with four Corsair SP120 High Performance (push). I will have another Monsta 480 in the bottom, any reason to do push/pull Corsair SP120 High Performance?

The fans will be spinning @ 1500-2350 rpm somewhere, I have the option (space) to do push/pull on the bottom radiator, what do you think @geggeg?









Edit: The radiator in the top will be turned 180 degrees from this position.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 
> 
> Alphastool Monsta 480 that will be used with four Corsair SP120 High Performance (push). I will have another Monsta 480 in the bottom, any reason to do push/pull Corsair SP120 High Performance?
> 
> The fans will be spinning @ 1500-2350 rpm somewhere, I have the option (space) to do push/pull on the bottom radiator, what do you think @geggeg?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: The radiator in the top will be turned 180 degrees from this position.


Monsta is a very thick rad. I would say push/pull is a must for that rad. I suspect it will perform a lot better and allow fans to operate at lower rpm.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Monsta is a very thick rad. I would say push/pull is a must for that rad. I suspect it will perform a lot better and allow fans to operate at lower rpm.


The top radiator will only have push fans (do not have the space for push/pull) and running fans at around 2000 rpm I do not think is a big problem going with push.
The bottom radiator might get push/pull at around 2000 rpm (guess it will perform very well then) and I also have two MO-RA3 420s in the same loop, so hot water is not really a big concern. About 5 liters with distilled water in that loop probably.


----------



## VSG

This is why I am not sure why people buy the Monsta all the time. It's so thick, it really would benefit from push-pull but so many people won't have the space for push-pull.


----------



## SuDDi

I'm a bit disappointed with my water cooling setup atm. In short, my CPU runs far hotter than I would have expected.

I'm running a delidded 4770K at 4.7 Ghz, a Vcore of 1.315 V and a Supremacy EVO Original CSQ - Acetal block.
With a water temperature of 30 C and a D5 pump going full pelt in what is now a CPU only loop I get a fairly constant Core max temperature of 70-75C running Intel Burn test. Measure with HWinfo64. It is a fairly simple single rad setup too, so I doubt the pump could have much of a problem with water resistance.

I recently rebuilt my loop since I got a 980 and haven't gotten a water block for it yet. And in doing so I hoped to fix CPU temperatures would improve. I decided to take the IHS off and running the CPU naked, using EK's seperate mounting kit. And I was diligent in cleaning and applying an appropriate amount of thermal paste. But temperatures are just as bad. From what I remember my NH-D15 did an at least equally good job. Although, I am new to this and I'm not sure exactly what temperatures I should expect,.

The GPU in my old loop operated at excellent temperatures, and with a 30 C water temperature I can only assume that any problem must be with the block-CPU contact or with the block itself. I'm considering if I should take it apart next and have a look inside. Any thing else I could try?


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> I'm a bit disappointed with my water cooling setup atm. In short, my CPU runs far hotter than I would have expected.
> 
> I'm running a delidded 4770K at 4.7 Ghz, a Vcore of 1.315 V and a Supremacy EVO Original CSQ - Acetal block.
> With a water temperature of 30 C and a D5 pump going full pelt in what is now a CPU only loop I get a fairly constant Core max temperature of 70-75C running Intel Burn test. Measure with HWinfo64. It is a fairly simple single rad setup too, so I doubt the pump could have much of a problem with water resistance.
> 
> I recently rebuilt my loop since I got a 980 and haven't gotten a water block for it yet. And in doing so I hoped to fix CPU temperatures would improve. I decided to take the IHS off and running the CPU naked, using EK's seperate mounting kit. And I was diligent in cleaning and applying an appropriate amount of thermal paste. But temperatures are just as bad. From what I remember my NH-D15 did an at least equally good job. Although, I am new to this and I'm not sure exactly what temperatures I should expect,.
> 
> The GPU in my old loop operated at excellent temperatures, and with a 30 C water temperature I can only assume that any problem must be with the block-CPU contact or with the block itself. I'm considering if I should take it apart next and have a look inside. Any thing else I could try?


What TIM are you using, were you using the recommended coollabortories liquid ultra between the IHS and cpu, but now using coollabortories liquid ultra between the cpu die and the waterblock?


----------



## SuDDi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> What TIM are you using, were you using the recommended coollabortories liquid ultra between the IHS and cpu, but now using coollabortories liquid ultra between the cpu die and the waterblock?


Previously I was using CLU between CPU and IHS and NoctuaNT-H1 between it and the water block. Now I'm just using some NT-H1.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuDDi*
> 
> I'm a bit disappointed with my water cooling setup atm. In short, my CPU runs far hotter than I would have expected.
> 
> I'm running a delidded 4770K at 4.7 Ghz, a Vcore of 1.315 V and a Supremacy EVO Original CSQ - Acetal block.
> With a water temperature of 30 C and a D5 pump going full pelt in what is now a CPU only loop I get a fairly constant Core max temperature of 70-75C running Intel Burn test. Measure with HWinfo64. It is a fairly simple single rad setup too, so I doubt the pump could have much of a problem with water resistance.
> 
> I recently rebuilt my loop since I got a 980 and haven't gotten a water block for it yet. And in doing so I hoped to fix CPU temperatures would improve. I decided to take the IHS off and running the CPU naked, using EK's seperate mounting kit. And I was diligent in cleaning and applying an appropriate amount of thermal paste. But temperatures are just as bad. From what I remember my NH-D15 did an at least equally good job. Although, I am new to this and I'm not sure exactly what temperatures I should expect,.
> 
> The GPU in my old loop operated at excellent temperatures, and with a 30 C water temperature I can only assume that any problem must be with the block-CPU contact or with the block itself. I'm considering if I should take it apart next and have a look inside. Any thing else I could try?


Hiya. Recently I had a similar (but more extreme) experience with a 4790k. I've delidded several chips and I've done a lot of experimenting with different combinations.
I was shocked when I used a XSPC Raystorm with my 4790k which had Coolabs Pro liquid metal between die and IHS and then more CLP between the IHS and the copper CPU block. My temps were good on 2 cores, 1 was pretty hot, and one was a massive 23C higher than the lowest of the 2 good cores while running IBT. The highest core was 92C and the lowest was 70C.

So, first off, your temps are normal. IBT makes Haswell cook. Even 92C is something I'm used to seeing from a delidded processor using Linpack, AVX2 etc. I've thermal throttled 4770Ks that weren't delidded several times. They survived








Back to my story:
I let it run like that for a while, but eventually I took a day to redo everything. When I pulled the chip off the CPU block, it did appear to me I had used *too much* CLP, both on the die and on the IHS.
Not only that, but the CLP had sort of fused with the copper CPU block. I had to use sand paper to get it off completely. I lapped the block using 400-3000grit sand paper. It took hours.
When I redid the CLP on the die, I used very little and spread it very thin using a cotton swab, being very careful not to introduce any lint.
At that point I ran out of CLP. So I elected to use Gelid Extreme TIM on the IHS and see how it went. Again, I spread a very thin layer of the standard TIM on the IHS. I actually spread it out instead of using a dot and letting the block installation do the spreading.
Results: Excellent. Nearly the same for low temps around 70C with IBT. But highest core was only 75C! To me this was good results because before the delid process this chip (4.8Ghz) would reach 100C in IBT.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is why I am not sure why people buy the Monsta all the time. It's so thick, it really would benefit from push-pull but so many people won't have the space for push-pull.


In my instance I do not think it is worth buying new radiators when I have much more radiator area than I will use, four R9 290Xs and two RIVBE blocks will not heat up two MO-RA3 420s with fans ... even less two Monsta 480s and two MO-RA3 420s with a total of 30 fans ... I do not even need the two Monsta's, but I choose to use them for the aesthetics of my build.









In the case of push/pull in the top I would have to use four of these http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/fans/slip-stream-120-mm-slim.html underneath and four SP120s up top, could work though, they are not too ugly either.







If I had 1-2 mm more of space underneath the Monsta 480 I could place four SP120s there too (it would sit right in front of the 8-pin CPU-connector though







)

With that setup, any reason to add a D5 with EK-D5 X-Top underneath a Aquacomputer Aqualis XT 880? Or will I probably be good with the two Swiftech MCP655s?

Edit: Going to use the Koolance INS-FM18D to check the flow.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Personally,I think transistor density is the lssue with current CPU design,the cores are a very small part of the die with the highest heat output,effectiveness plateaus as there is not the surface area to transmit the heat.


----------



## SuDDi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hiya. Recently I had a similar (but more extreme) experience with a 4790k. I've delidded several chips and I've done a lot of experimenting with different combinations.
> I was shocked when I used a XSPC Raystorm with my 4790k which had Coolabs Pro liquid metal between die and IHS and then more CLP between the IHS and the copper CPU block. My temps were good on 2 cores, 1 was pretty hot, and one was a massive 23C higher than the lowest of the 2 good cores while running IBT. The highest core was 92C and the lowest was 70C.
> 
> So, first off, your temps are normal. IBT makes Haswell cook. Even 92C is something I'm used to seeing from a delidded processor using Linpack, AVX2 etc. I've thermal throttled 4770Ks that weren't delidded several times. They survived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to my story:
> I let it run like that for a while, but eventually I took a day to redo everything. When I pulled the chip off the CPU block, it did appear to me I had used *too much* CLP, both on the die and on the IHS.
> Not only that, but the CLP had sort of fused with the copper CPU block. I had to use sand paper to get it off completely. I lapped the block using 400-3000grit sand paper. It took hours.
> When I redid the CLP on the die, I used very little and spread it very thin using a cotton swab, being very careful not to introduce any lint.
> At that point I ran out of CLP. So I elected to use Gelid Extreme TIM on the IHS and see how it went. Again, I spread a very thin layer of the standard TIM on the IHS. I actually spread it out instead of using a dot and letting the block installation do the spreading.
> Results: Excellent. Nearly the same for low temps around 70C with IBT. But highest core was only 75C! To me this was good results because before the delid process this chip (4.8Ghz) would reach 100C in IBT.


Yea, I've heard the CLP can be beyond nasty to remove. My temps might not be so bad then.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> In my instance I do not think it is worth buying new radiators when I have much more radiator area than I will use, four R9 290Xs and two RIVBE blocks will not heat up two MO-RA3 420s with fans ... even less two Monsta 480s and two MO-RA3 420s with a total of 30 fans ... I do not even need the two Monsta's, but I choose to use them for the aesthetics of my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the case of push/pull in the top I would have to use four of these http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/fans/slip-stream-120-mm-slim.html underneath and four SP120s up top, could work though, they are not too ugly either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I had 1-2 mm more of space underneath the Monsta 480 I could place four SP120s there too (it would sit right in front of the 8-pin CPU-connector though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> With that setup, any reason to add a D5 with EK-D5 X-Top underneath a Aquacomputer Aqualis XT 880? Or will I probably be good with the two Swiftech MCP655s?
> 
> Edit: Going to use the Koolance INS-FM18D to check the flow.


That was a general post, you got plenty of rad space as you said









The reason people tend to dress them up is aesthetics more often than not. But the mcp655 is just a stock D5 Vario so I'd say that a top will help with ports and layout also.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That was a general post, you got plenty of rad space as you said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason people tend to dress them up is aesthetics more often than not. But the mcp655 is just a stock D5 Vario so I'd say that a top will help with ports and layout also.


I understood that it was a general post.









So I will not risk anything adding the third D5 to my loop then? I still have the two EK-D5 X-Res 140 (same top as the EK-D5 X-top it seems like, which I also have two of), I will still be using the two EK-D5 X-Res 140s with the MCP655s, but I have another D5 (LOWARA) sitting on my desk with a EK-D5 X-top mounted which I would like to add to the loop, together with a Aquacomputer Aqualis 880 XT to get the flow a little better (if it is bad in the first place), I could try with both and see where that gets me though. Yes, I am going to do that and then I report back to you guys.









Seems to recall someone talking about burning out the D5s if using more than two in serial a few pages back, but adding two more radiators and another reservoir I guess the loop will have more restriction and the flow will get a little worse, just thought of adding the third pump to get better flow. As I said, will test and get back to you guys.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ... for those that like speaking in "Degrees", adding an elbow to your pump inlet or outlet is about equivalent to a 0.05C temperature loss. Probably not something to worry about much.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> While I used to be a skeptic about installation of elbows on pumps, I'm not so worried about it now. At least with your typical DDC top with reduced inlet opening, the larger ID Bitspower elbows do not seem to cause much more than a little restriction which is not going to add up to more than a tenth of a degree and really not worth worrying about.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/05/elbow-impacts-on-pump-performance/
Click to expand...

I sidestepped the ell inlet issue with a custom Rez that screws directly onto an Iwaki.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That was a general post, you got plenty of rad space as you said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason people tend to dress them up is aesthetics more often than not. But the mcp655 is just a stock D5 Vario so I'd say that a top will help with ports and layout also.
> 
> 
> 
> I understood that it was a general post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I will not risk anything adding the third D5 to my loop then? I still have the two EK-D5 X-Res 140 (same top as the EK-D5 X-top it seems like, which I also have two of), I will still be using the two EK-D5 X-Res 140s with the MCP655s, but I have another D5 (LOWARA) sitting on my desk with a EK-D5 X-top mounted which I would like to add to the loop, together with a Aquacomputer Aqualis 880 XT to get the flow a little better (if it is bad in the first place), I could try with both and see where that gets me though. Yes, I am going to do that and then I report back to you guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems to recall someone talking about burning out the D5s if using more than two in serial a few pages back, but adding two more radiators and another reservoir I guess the loop will have more restriction and the flow will get a little worse, just thought of adding the third pump to get better flow. As I said, will test and get back to you guys.
Click to expand...

It was me,XS had a quad d5 setup that ate the last pump in the series consistantly,better to go all Soviet with 'one big pump' rather than multiple small pumps.


----------



## VSG

^ Agreed, especially with "regular" D5 pumps in a dual Mo.Ra loop. Do I hear someone say D5 Strong? Iwaki maybe (comes with it's own set of challenges)?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Agreed, especially with "regular" D5 pumps in a dual Mo.Ra loop. Do I hear someone say D5 Strong? Iwaki maybe (comes with it's own set of challenges)?


Did somebody say Iwaki








RD-30, D5 Strong and D5 Vario in the background for incremental flow rate restriction testing.
Here set up testing pressure drop across a Nemesis 360GTS


----------



## VSG

You should try out the Koolance NPT to G 1/4 adapters for the Dwyer btw- makes life so much easier in case you need replacement parts.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should try out the Koolance NPT to G 1/4 adapters for the Dwyer btw- makes life so much easier in case you need replacement parts.


I think recall reading issues with the Koolance adapters, but I can't place the reference








In any case, I can purchase the brass fittings pictured locally which is much more convenient


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It was me,XS had a quad d5 setup that ate the last pump in the series consistantly,better to go all Soviet with 'one big pump' rather than multiple small pumps.


The Iwaki MD15RV-20RZVM is one way to go, will have to ask for a price on that though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Agreed, especially with "regular" D5 pumps in a dual Mo.Ra loop. Do I hear someone say D5 Strong? Iwaki maybe (comes with it's own set of challenges)?


Which sort of challenges are you thinking about? The size, sound and cost?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> The Iwaki MD15RV-20RZVM is one way to go, will have to ask for a price on that though.
> Which sort of challenges are you thinking about? The size, sound and cost?


Don't forget the 24 Volt at up to 3.2 Amp power requirements


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Don't forget the 24 Volt at up to 3.2 Amp power requirements


So much hassle with these MO-RA3's ... I will try my D5s first and see how bad it is ...

I'd rather get 230V so, time to look for big pumps I guess.

Just checked the flow, the FM18D show 4,3 LPM which is 1,118 GPM (taken in mind 1 LPM = 0,26 GPM), I think I am good then ... will try the FM18D after getting in the two Monsta's, GPU's and motherboard into the loop.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> So much hassle with these MO-RA3's ... I will try my D5s first and see how bad it is ...
> 
> I'd rather get 230V so, time to look for big pumps I guess.
> 
> Just checked the flow, the FM18D show 4,3 LPM which is 1,118 GPM (taken in mind 1 LPM = 0,26 GPM), I think I am good then ... will try the FM18D after getting in the two Monsta's, GPU's and motherboard into the loop.


Sell those MO-RA3 and get one of this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21254/ex-wat-272/Aquacomputer_Airplex_GIGANT_1680_External_Radiator_-_Aluminum_Fins_33301.html?tl=c95s667b200&id=rW3gJCAX&mv_pc=416

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20515/ex-wat-257/Aquacomputer_Airplex_GIGANT_3360_External_Radiator_-_Aluminum_Fins_33303.html?tl=c95s667b200&id=rW3gJCAX&mv_pc=420


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Personally,I think transistor density is the lssue with current CPU design,the cores are a very small part of the die with the highest heat output,effectiveness plateaus as there is not the surface area to transmit the heat.


You are 100% correct. Need surface area to move the heat off the chip, and these tiny little CPU dies don't have very much - all the heat is in a very small area. That is also why newer CPUs have so much wider deltas between coolant/waterblock temps and actual core temps compared to older chips.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Sell those MO-RA3 and get one of this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21254/ex-wat-272/Aquacomputer_Airplex_GIGANT_1680_External_Radiator_-_Aluminum_Fins_33301.html?tl=c95s667b200&id=rW3gJCAX&mv_pc=416
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20515/ex-wat-257/Aquacomputer_Airplex_GIGANT_3360_External_Radiator_-_Aluminum_Fins_33303.html?tl=c95s667b200&id=rW3gJCAX&mv_pc=420


First off, when you state that I guess you have owned and tested both MO-RA3 420 and Airplex Gigant 1680, or else that statement is worthless.









Yeah, that is a negative. Thought about getting a 1680 instead of the MO-RA3 420, but got advised against it from the seller ... it will not be much better than one MO-RA3 420 ... Passive radiators is a bad idea with this much wattage, if you have tried then you know, I have tried it. In the anticipation of PT1 on my four cards, one of those will not cut it passively, I do not think the 3360 does it passively either ... even with a room temperature on 13C that ain't going to cut it. No way I am selling my MO-RA3s, best radiators I have ever owned.









With 1,118 GPM with two pumps and dual MO-RA3s I am connecting the dual Monsta 480s, quad GPUs and another reservoir with good conscience.


----------



## emsj86

having the res and pump connected using just a small 1/4 x 1/4 cause a problem with noise or in general. It's my bud picture isn't great it's off my phone. Mcp50x pump xspc 1/4 x 1/4 extender and bitspower 150 res


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> having the res and pump connected using just a small 1/4 x 1/4 cause a problem with noise or in general. It's my bud picture isn't great it's off my phone. Mcp50x pump xspc 1/4 x 1/4 extender and bitspower 150 res


That extender shouldn't cause any issues.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Having had noisy D5's with inlet elbows,I would probably avoid it as general practise.
> Seeing as the DDC stock top already has a 90 feeding it,it can't be a massive problem for that pump


As someone who occasionally works with large pumps (think agriculture), 90 degree bends on the suction side of pumps is something we try to avoid whenever possible. you can take a big pump from being happy to cavitating with a single sharp 90.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I can never remember how fans and pressure in a case works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I know fans on rads dont push at there full potential, still heaps tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how can you not run filters? I run my fans on 5v and still have to clean the filters every few weeks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , then again I suppose my room does get pretty dusty but still


My case is on top of a desk. I had a machine that sat on the floor, and the front intakes got dust filters - solved my dust problems right quick. I don't have dust problems in the case as it is now, so no need for extra restriction. either way you gotta clean something eventually...

some pictures for reference:



the harddrive cage fans came with filters, and I clean them occasionally.


----------



## Jedson3614

What is more popular right now acrylic tubing, or regular larger inch tubing, which is better for cooling performance ? Does the bent acrylic need to be done by yourself ? Im thinking of going water cooling and doing a custom loop, Im not worried about money and want to know what would be a good starting point. I just don't know what tubing to pick, and what is the newest or looks the best. i am mostly concerned about cooling performance but looks are also important. Also do most people use the those quick connectors for the tubes, those to me look good and seem the easiest instead of regular retention clips. What are those tubes that are bent 90 deg ?


----------



## VSG

Cooling performance is not going to be affected by that- just go with whatever looks best, is within your budget and functions well enough for you.


----------



## Jedson3614

Any starting suggestions, I'm not sure I want a kit, I want to do custom. I'm stuck on what is really new and the best. You have a link to recent current setup? What about pipe bending ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

personally I'd go w/ soft tubing for your primary initiation into custom watercooling just to get the hang of how everything flows together. Then also choose your blocks to what fits your needs (budget vs performance needs).


----------



## VSG

Here are 3 threads to help out:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1406363/beginners-guide-for-water-cooling-2013/0_50

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/0_50

http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/0_50


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Having had noisy D5's with inlet elbows,I would probably avoid it as general practise.
> Seeing as the DDC stock top already has a 90 feeding it,it can't be a massive problem for that pump
> 
> 
> 
> As someone who occasionally works with large pumps (think agriculture), 90 degree bends on the suction side of pumps is something we try to avoid whenever possible. you can take a big pump from being happy to cavitating with a single sharp 90.
Click to expand...

I was a plumber,I hear you totally.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That makes sense, I think ill be swapping out some fittings on my own ddc (have a 90 in and a 90 out) but its running nice and quiet but noticing air in my loop even after bleeding numerous times
Also think my aquabox isn't helping that either


----------



## vlps5122

been browsing this thread daily for a few months now to get ideas for my build, which this thread has given me alot of ideas so i am posting my pictures for others in the future to use for ideas in their loop, happy building


----------



## emsj86

Anyone ever use thermal pad for cpu and if so how are they and where can I get one. I know there kinda expensive for what it does but even if it's 15 it will last a year and if it performs well I would like to try it


----------



## emsj86

Also I want to get a back plate for my gtx 780 and wanted to see if anyone knows of a pc store online that could make me a custom vinyal to put on it


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone ever use thermal pad for cpu and if so how are they and where can I get one. I know there kinda expensive for what it does but even if it's 15 it will last a year and if it performs well I would like to try it


Bad idea, the pads are too thick for this to work effectively. Save yourself the trouble and buy a tube of MX-4 or your choice of tim and you'll be much better off.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone ever use thermal pad for cpu and if so how are they and where can I get one. I know there kinda expensive for what it does but even if it's 15 it will last a year and if it performs well I would like to try it


Never use a thermal pad for the CPU. Even the bast pad will never outperform a proper application of TIM. Ideally you want the most metal-to-metal contact for the greatest heat transfer, and the main purpose of the TIM is only to fill in any gaps/scratches where the IHS and block don't actually touch. That's why only a tiny amount of TIM is better than a lot, and why a pad is just a bad idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Also I want to get a back plate for my gtx 780 and wanted to see if anyone knows of a pc store online that could make me a custom vinyal to put on it


Sounds like a perfect job for Coldzero.eu, but sadly he's on hiatus again until they get caught back up with their orders.

And please remember to edit your post if it was last on a thread instead of double posting. (like I just did to add a reply to your double post)


----------



## ginger_nuts

Has anyone used EK's pastel coolant ? Is it Mayhem's relabelled ?

Also is there any reason I can't find many full blocks for my GTX970 (EVGA P/N 04G-P4-2974-KR ) ? Becoz short of $200AUD I am coming up short


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Has anyone used EK's pastel coolant ? *Is it Mayhem's relabelled ?*
> 
> Also is there any reason I can't find many full blocks for my GTX970 (EVGA P/N 04G-P4-2974-KR ) ? Becoz short of $200AUD I am coming up short
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes


----------



## catbuster

Hi guys, I wanted to ask if 3x eloops b12-1 (800 rpm ones) would push enough air with EK PE 1x 240 and 1x 120 rads. I would be cooling 1 gpu and 1 cpu


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to ask if 3x eloops b12-1 (800 rpm ones) would push enough air with EK PE 1x 240 and 1x 120 rads. I would be cooling 1 gpu and 1 cpu


Well, its a bit like how much beer is 'enough' for a party. If you are talking a high end CPU and GPU then fan speeds that low with just a 240 and 120 will mean water temps will be higher than they could be, but not critically so.

In my main system I have a 360 and 240 with eloops and SP120's in push pull. I run them under 1200 RPM when gaming and the water stays around 8C above ambient.
Using less rad space, lower speed and just push you can expect the water to be a fair bit warmer. Its very hard to estimate because all systems are unique so this is just an educated guess but, I reckon water temps would easily be double to tripple, and just maybe at a stretch 4 times higher. That is still perfectly safe though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Has anyone used EK's pastel coolant ? Is it Mayhem's relabelled ?
> 
> Also is there any reason I can't find many full blocks for my GTX970 (EVGA P/N 04G-P4-2974-KR ) ? Becoz short of $200AUD I am coming up short


I am using EK Pastel White in my build.







Very Impressed.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Well, its a bit like how much beer is 'enough' for a party. If you are talking a high end CPU and GPU then fan speeds that low with just a 240 and 120 will mean water temps will be higher than they could be, but not critically so.
> 
> In my main system I have a 360 and 240 with eloops and SP120's in push pull. I run them under 1200 RPM when gaming and the water stays around 8C above ambient.
> Using less rad space, lower speed and just push you can expect the water to be a fair bit warmer. Its very hard to estimate because all systems are unique so this is just an educated guess but, I reckon water temps would easily be double to tripple, and just maybe at a stretch 4 times higher. That is still perfectly safe though.


So I have my cpu and gpu in a single loop with a xspc 19fpi 360mm radiator /w xinrulian 2k fans in pull, and the fans are on lowest setting controlled by a three setting fan hub. If I run the fans at medium instead of lowest setting temps drop ~6*c. CPU is a 3770k @ 4.8ghz and 1.325v, and in my most taxing games it will hit 85*c; GPU is a 780 @ 1.3v that does not basically EVER go above 50*c when benchmarking (45*c in games). My ambient temperature is ~24/25*c.... and my question is would I probably most benefit from different fans and maybe in push pull on the 360, or could a second 240mm radiator also in just pull help the same, if not better? I might also need to delid my cpu because after numerous remounts, I don't see how my cpu could be 30*c hotter than my gpu in the same loop.
I already have 2 SP120's so I figured at very least I'd get another one and throw those on the 360mm rad.

Do those eloops work well horizontally?

Thanks for your insight!


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> [ I don't see how my cpu could be 30*c hotter than my gpu in the same loop.


Graphics cards generate a lot more heat that CPUs.They always run hotter. Look up the TDP of some CPUs and GPUs and you'll see how a GPU use a lot more watts


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Graphics cards generate a lot more heat that CPUs.They always run hotter. Look up the TDP of some CPUs and GPUs and you'll see how a GPU use a lot more watts


Right, especially when it is overvolted. But wouldn't that mean the opposite of whats happening, where assuming all blocks are making perfect contact, the GPU would be hotter than the CPU?


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

DazMode is awesome...ordered yesterday, not even 24 hours later I got my order.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Graphics cards generate a lot more heat that CPUs.They always run hotter. Look up the TDP of some CPUs and GPUs and you'll see how a GPU use a lot more watts
> 
> 
> 
> Right, especially when it is overvolted. But wouldn't that mean the opposite of whats happening, where assuming all blocks are making perfect contact, the GPU would be hotter than the CPU?
Click to expand...

Whoa! I miss read that! What's your loop? (A picture is worth a thousand words)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> So I have my cpu and gpu in a single loop with a xspc 19fpi 360mm radiator /w xinrulian 2k fans in pull, and the fans are on lowest setting controlled by a three setting fan hub. If I run the fans at medium instead of lowest setting temps drop ~6*c. CPU is a 3770k @ 4.8ghz and 1.325v, and in my most taxing games it will hit 85*c; GPU is a 780 @ 1.3v that does not basically EVER go above 50*c when benchmarking (45*c in games). My ambient temperature is ~24/25*c.... and my question is would I probably most benefit from different fans and maybe in push pull on the 360, or could a second 240mm radiator also in just pull help the same, if not better? I might also need to delid my cpu because after numerous remounts, I don't see how my cpu could be 30*c hotter than my gpu in the same loop.
> I already have 2 SP120's so I figured at very least I'd get another one and throw those on the 360mm rad.
> 
> Do those eloops work well horizontally?
> 
> Thanks for your insight!


Another radiator will nearly always be more effective than more fans. As an example, in an ideal environment adding another identical rad will halve the water / air delta, or lower the number of degrees above ambient the water is by 50%. Using push pull will normally lower delta by something like 10-20%.

CPU and GPU temps are always quite different because they are very different types of chips, GPU's are bare die, GPU water blocks are larger, and many other reasons. In testing a GPU will be around 10 - 20C warmer than the water cooling them depending on type but CPU's can be 30-50C warmer than coolant depending on type.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That makes sense, I think ill be swapping out some fittings on my own ddc (have a 90 in and a 90 out) but its running nice and quiet but noticing air in my loop even after bleeding numerous times
> Also think my aquabox isn't helping that either


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> [ I don't see how my cpu could be 30*c hotter than my gpu in the same loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Graphics cards generate a lot more heat that CPUs.They always run hotter. Look up the TDP of some CPUs and GPUs and you'll see how a GPU use a lot more watts
Click to expand...

TDP to measure a cards heat output is nearly pointless,40% of the heat is radiated away without the blocks help,TDP is a whole card value,not just the die.
You can see this in returned values,most water cooled cards rarely hit 45c under full load while CPUs regularly hit 70,even with the advantage of jet impingement over microfin style blocks.

GPUs produce more heat initially because the coolers are so primative.


----------



## Agenesis

What are some recommended tubing now? I remember back 2 years ago everyone was having issues with plasticizer.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> What are some recommended tubing now? I remember back 2 years ago everyone was having issues with plasticizer.


You have Primochill advance LRT, some tygon models (http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c457/s1722/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Tygon-Tygon_Plasticizer_Free-Page1.html?id=ouNPFdhZ&mv_pc=397) with very different properties (e-1000 is very flexible but stain pretty badly and have a rather high water absorption), EK zmt and perhaps norprene (which I personally never used).

http://www.biopharm.saint-gobain.com/en/Products/PDFs/TYGON_E-1000.pdf

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c457/s1722/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Tygon-Tygon_Plasticizer_Free-Page1.html?id=ouNPFdhZ&mv_pc=397

hope it helps









edit- notice that several of these are Non-DEHP but do have other types of plasticizers.


----------



## lowfat

Acrylic is pretty much the only clear tubing that will not cloud or change colour. Even the Primochill Advanced turned yellow on me.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Like I said I will get part number in a while to be specific. I think it's an e3 something. It has a long number. And it's not a plastic topped pump it's the brass 1/2" the ecocirc is but not this monster
> 
> and yes it plugs into the wall. I am not posting specifics till I can grab the exact figures. It's got some wild stats. All I remember ,forsure ,is the guy who sold it said it was a spa pump that goes for 300 on ebay.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


Just thought I'd point out that E5 pump is getting debated in a new thread here:

*Laing E series pumps: have they been considered?*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1522897/laing-e-series-pumps-have-they-been-considered/


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Just thought I'd point out that E5 pump is getting debated in a new thread here:
> 
> *Laing E series pumps: have they been considered?*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1522897/laing-e-series-pumps-have-they-been-considered/


Any idea on the price?

My D5's rotor/impeller is shot. Small plastic ring fell out of it and now it makes a world of terrible noises. Has anyone found a replacement rotor? Looked around, not paying $60 for it...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I may need the crowbar.......


----------



## ThornTwist

That thing is a beast! Nice, love it.


----------



## nismoskyline

^oh my that is sexy


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may need the crowbar.......


or....


----------



## bundymania




----------



## IGr3yh0unDI

Hey Guys i hope i can join the Club now







Greetings from Germany




And when its getting dark outside


----------



## sinnedone

Looking good IGr3yh0unDI


----------



## Menzies

Finished v3.0 of my build

Before



After



Hacked out the drive bay to make room for a 360mm rad up front so I now have a Corsair 360D







.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menzies*
> 
> 
> 
> Hacked out the drive bay to make room for a 360mm rad up front so I now have a Corsair 360D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


thats a tight fit...


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menzies*
> 
> Finished v3.0 of my build
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> Hacked out the drive bay to make room for a 360mm rad up front so I now have a Corsair 360D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Nice! small upgrade but makes it look so much cleaner.


----------



## Jakewat

Anyone used on of these before? Would it work with an aquero 5?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-sen-fm18t10-coolant-flow-meter-with-temperature-sensor-10k.html


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Anyone used on of these before? Would it work with an aquero 5?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-sen-fm18t10-coolant-flow-meter-with-temperature-sensor-10k.html


It works if you use:
http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter
Or if you can find IT-Diva's instructions in this beast of a thread and follow them through on how to make a cable that does the frequency adjustment in line.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that is one GORGEOUS slab of nickel copper


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Anyone used on of these before? Would it work with an aquero 5?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-sen-fm18t10-coolant-flow-meter-with-temperature-sensor-10k.html


As the guys mentioned, they work quite well, but they do require a second bit of hardware.

The lower cost item :

http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-flow-meter-frequency-adapter-for-ins-fm17n.html

would allow the flow meter to be displayed as milliliters per minute on a channel of the Aquaero.

It would need to have one of the fan channels dedicated to it.

This slightly more costly solution, is much more versatile, and I think is the better value, in that it has an integral display, while still retaining the ability to also connect it to a fan channel if you want.

It also lets you choose the display units, lpm or gpm.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-koolance-flow-meter-adapter-with-display.html

The temp sensor cable uses a slightly different connector than the ones generally used, and will only fit on the end set of temp sensor pins on the Aquaero unless you change it.

I have used a number of each of those items and so far only had one bad one out of the box . . . a flow meter that just randomly read anywhere from 0 to 12 or so.

Darlene


----------



## p5ych00n5

So the 7970 block I ordered on the 14th of October is now expected to arrive on the 12th of November, that is almost a month for a Waterblock to travel from the UK to Australia :|


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menzies*
> 
> Finished v3.0 of my build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hacked out the drive bay to make room for a 360mm rad up front so I now have a Corsair 360D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Any temp differences? I actually went back to soft tube from rigid acrylic because it was causing too much restriction with temps becoming unacceptable.


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Any temp differences? I actually went back to soft tube from rigid acrylic because it was causing too much restriction with temps becoming unacceptable.


Did you have pinch in there somewhere?

How much smaller did you go with the change from soft -> acrylic? 1/2ID -> 3/8ID (or less)?


----------



## VSG

I highly doubt that acrylic tubing was having any effect on restriction to be honest.


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I highly doubt that acrylic tubing was having any effect on restriction to be honest.


That's what everyone says...size doesn't matter w/regards to tubing...but I had to ask since I'm starting a build soon...real soon.


----------



## VSG

If you look at it, a G 1/4 port is smaller than most tubing ID. This is before the bulk of the restriction in a loop coming from blocks and a few rads out there.


----------



## GaMbi2004

I actually got better flow when I changed from 1/2''ID 3/4''OD soft, to 3/8''ID 1/2''OD acrylic.. Not a lot, but I noticed a difference!
I suspect the shorter run / straighter lines combined with "perfect" 90 degree bends did the trick.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you look at it, a G 1/4 port is smaller than most tubing ID. This is before the bulk of the restriction in a loop coming from blocks and a few rads out there.


This^

The flow will be dictated by the smallest part in your system.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think it may have been that there were too many 90 bends in the acrylic setup. Cuz I really don't see how it coulda been more restrictive than any soft tube if he is using the same blocks with both.

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you look at it, a G 1/4 port is smaller than most tubing ID. This is before the bulk of the restriction in a loop coming from blocks and a few rads out there.
> 
> 
> 
> This^
> 
> The *volumetric* flow will be dictated by the smallest part in your system.
Click to expand...

FTFY.

VSG is entirely correct,however...even a shallow 90 can have an effect,anything that deflects kinetic energy in a loop will have a restrictive nature to flow rate.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you look at it, a G 1/4 port is smaller than most tubing ID. This is before the bulk of the restriction in a loop coming from blocks and a few rads out there.
> 
> 
> 
> This^
> 
> The flow will be dictated by the smallest part in your system.
Click to expand...

I don't think so. Every inch of tubing and every orifice in every fitting restricts flow some. Restriction is cumulative, everything the water flows through add it own part to the total.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Did you have pinch in there somewhere?
> 
> How much smaller did you go with the change from soft -> acrylic? 1/2ID -> 3/8ID (or less)?


I went from 3/4od 1/2id soft to 1/2od 3/8id rigid acrylic. I'm running 9 blocks and 5 rads. Every little bit helps.

I followed the same exact flow pattern as with the soft tube.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


WOW, beauiful build









Great job man


----------



## ForTheHorde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*










Looks amazing, would love to see a vid of it up and running


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


...not sure..but I think that's a keeper.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FTFY.
> 
> VSG is entirely correct,however...even a shallow 90 can have an effect,anything that deflects kinetic energy in a loop will have a restrictive nature to flow rate.


Same thing in automotive turbo systems. All tubing should favor 45's or large radius 90's as in the end it can make a noticeable difference in measurable hp. (usually diameter is retained)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> I don't think so. Every inch of tubing and every orifice in every fitting restricts flow some. Restriction is cumulative, everything the water flows through add it own part to the total.


Was corrected by bneg as I forgot the volumetric part of that statement.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What feet did you use for the pump heatsink?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What feet did you use for the pump heatsink?
Click to expand...

EK AntiVibration in all likelihood, near as I can tell.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK AntiVibration in all likelihood, near as I can tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Indeed @Ragsters, the EK anti vibration kit

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22556/ex-pmp-278/EK_DDC_Pump_Anti-Vibration_Mounting_Kit_EK-DDC_Anti-Vibration_Mounting.html?tl=g57c595s1936&id=6sagkMaf


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK AntiVibration in all likelihood, near as I can tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Indeed @Ragsters, the EK anti vibration kit
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22556/ex-pmp-278/EK_DDC_Pump_Anti-Vibration_Mounting_Kit_EK-DDC_Anti-Vibration_Mounting.html?tl=g57c595s1936&id=6sagkMaf


Thanks guys!


----------



## jake93s

my first real build. what do you guys think? i got a picture of my old pc there as well. before and after, you could say.
deferently learnt a lot by building this pc. 1) a bigger case doesn't mean a overall easier experience, even though i love this case i wouldn't buy it again. 2) water cooling is damn expensive, and having a d5 pump would have gone a long way. 3) that impulse buying on ebay and the like is not a good habbit to form haha.
just bought a 780ti with a waterblock that is waiting to go in, looking forward to that. as ill need to add a rad and some more stuff into the mix.
graphics card is a 780, cpu i7 4770k , 128 ssd etc.


----------



## MiiX

What is this?
Just a box with some blue letters....


Wait... YAY!


----------



## VSG

The new Phanteks radiator optimized fans:



















Both fans consume 2.4 watts, like the other Phanteks fans I have, and have ~20" of cable length.


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The new Phanteks radiator optimized fans:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both fans consume 2.4 watts, like the other Phanteks fans I have, and have ~20" of cable length.


Amazon HAD them, but none of the other sites (NewEgg, FrozenCPU, or Tiger Direct) even have them listed (despite what the Phanteks site says).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Amazon HAD them, but none of the other sites (NewEgg, FrozenCPU, or Tiger Direct) even have them listed (despite what the Phanteks site says).


I don't think Amazon had them yet. They created a page for them already, just like they did with other new items before they get them in stock, but the MP fans are brand new just announced. I haven't seen them for sale anywhere yet. I believe the fans geggeg VSG has pisctured are probably a pre-retail review sample straight from Phanteks.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Amazon HAD them, but none of the other sites (NewEgg, FrozenCPU, or Tiger Direct) even have them listed (despite what the Phanteks site says).


I wouldn't count on Newegg to host anything custom loop oriented. There are exceptions of course but FCPU, PPC etc might be the best bet.


----------



## zoson

Sad thing is they still don't outperform gentle typhoons. blows my mind that to this day nobody has made a fan that performs better than what was released like 10 years ago.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> *Sad thing is they still don't outperform gentle typhoons*. blows my mind that to this day nobody has made a fan that performs better than what was released like 10 years ago.


I am curious as to how you concluded that. I haven't tested these out fully, so if you have more info then I bet others would love to know more also. Also, what defines "outperform" to you? Airflow at a certain RPM? Certain noise levels? Noise profiles? I've only heard good things about San Ace/Delta fans run at similar fan speeds. Ditto with the new Noctua Industrial PPC fans. But again all this without someone like Martin having tested for sure as far as I know.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Sad thing is they still don't outperform gentle typhoons. blows my mind that to this day nobody has made a fan that performs better than what was released like 10 years ago.


Not doubting your assertion but where did you get the test results from? I'm assuming this is based on comparing specifications?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I have to take farewell with my EK-Supremacy Full Nickel with Nickel-bracket









Guess that is the way of life when something better comes along, this will probably do the job better anyways!











Have also found out the best way to go with the copper tubing, so I have to get me some Bitspower Multi-Link 90 degree Adapters!







Wish me luck!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Sad thing is they still don't outperform gentle typhoons. blows my mind that to this day nobody has made a fan that performs better than what was released like 10 years ago.


Evidence.

You are lacking it.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am curious as to how you concluded that. I haven't tested these out fully, so if you have more info then I bet others would love to know more also. Also, what defines "outperform" to you? Airflow at a certain RPM? Certain noise levels? Noise profiles? I've only heard good things about San Ace/Delta fans run at similar fan speeds. Ditto with the new Noctua Industrial PPC fans. But again all this without someone like Martin having tested for sure as far as I know.


Raw specs are *significantly* below GT's. MFG's never lowball specs, ever. 2.9 vs 1.7 mm H2O Yeah, other fans are 'good' but we have yet to see anything other than the Gelid Wing come even close to flow *through* a radiator at any given RPM *or* noiselevel.

One clear indicator of poor static pressure performance is the raw number of blades. Also, high pressure fans will have a serious curvature to both the leading and trailing edge of each blade and a deeper 'scoop' on each blade. All characteristics you can see on both GT and GW.

This is BASIC fluid dynamics.

Honestly by raw figures alone This fan is nowhere even close to the same league as GT's or GW's.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Evidence.
> 
> You are lacking it.


I have a degree in electrical engineering, 10 years of practical work experience, and 15 years of watercooling experience. I have 8 years of physics under my belt along with fluid dynamics and thermodynamics. My evidence is visual inspection and manufacturer specifications. Both of which indicate this fan will not even be close to the same league.

All the wishing in the world doesn't change cold, hard, scientific fact.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's why I'm glad fan noise doesn't bother me, love my delta's


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Evidence.
> 
> You are lacking it.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a degree in electrical engineering, 10 years of practical work experience, and 15 years of watercooling experience. I have 8 years of physics under my belt along with fluid dynamics and thermodynamics. My evidence is visual inspection and manufacturer specifications. Both of which indicate this fan will not even be close to the same league.
> 
> All the wishing in the world doesn't change *cold, hard, scientific fact.*
Click to expand...

Which,again,you have not provided.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Which,again,you have not provided.


Actually, I have. The three design characteristics I mentioned and are obviously missing from these phanteks fans are basic propeller/impeller design concepts that anyone with an education that includes fluid dynamics would know.

You can say I didn't, but that's just a denial of the facts.


----------



## VSG

The last time I believed manufacturer specs on fans partly also due to YouTubers, I ended up buying 16 Corsair SP120 PWM fans that then left me unable to control past 5 on a PWM header and listening to them blast at full speed at idle. Needless to say that's not happening again. Any experience you have doesn't count without having actually tested the part yourself- this isn't directed at anyone in specific, just a lesson from my own experiences








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Actually, I have. The three design characteristics I mentioned and are obviously missing from these phanteks fans are basic propeller/impeller design concepts that anyone with an education that includes fluid dynamics would know.
> 
> You can say I didn't, but that's just a denial of the facts.


By that logic, every GT fan blade design imitator should be just as good.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The last time I believed manufacturer specs on fans partly also due to YouTubers, I ended up buying 16 Corsair SP120 PWM fans that then left me unable to control past 5 on a PWM header and listening to them blast at full speed at idle. Needless to say that's not happening again. Any experience you have doesn't count without having actually tested the part yourself- this isn't directed at anyone in specific, just a lesson from my own experiences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By that logic, every GT fan blade design imitator should be just as good.


That's the thing. You can always count on manufacturers to inflate their results. Even inflated the numbers are significantly less than the measured performance of a GT.
Fans are not one area where performance is underpromised then overdelivered.

That's my entire argument. The poor design coupled with the low stated numbers basically makes it painfully obvious to anyone with actual education and experience that these fans won't offer great performance.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Which,again,you have not provided.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, I have. The three design characteristics I mentioned and are obviously missing from these phanteks fans are basic propeller/impeller design concepts that anyone with an education that includes fluid dynamics would know.
> 
> You can say I didn't, but that's just a denial of the facts.
Click to expand...

You have provided NO scientific evidence,this is the fundamentals to any scientific examination,you are passing opinion as fact.

Your much lauded GT's are not good because of their performance,rather the quietness they can provide it at.

You do not have this fan in your possession nor have you conducted ANY testing,I also find your claims hard to believe as your grasp of basic scientific procedure seems lost.


----------



## zoson

Pretending that years upon years of research into propeller and impeller design which has given us optimal blade shapes for various tasks doesn't allow us to interpolate how a given blade shape will perform is just that - pretending.

Again, prop/impeller and blade design is a really well understood topic, anyone who's studied fluid dynamics will be able to simply glance at an impeller or prop and tell you what it's for and the basic performance characteristics of that design. There's a reason why stealth submarine props and impellers look like GT's and not like this phanteks fan.

In any case, you obviously won't see reason so there's no need to discuss this further. You can go ahead and buy a bunch of these and test them, then eat your words when they're exactly as I said they would be.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's why I'm glad fan noise doesn't bother me, love my delta's


This







. Not using them right now becuase of cost:benefit(i have over 30 fans), but Delta are my favorite performance fan.

Currently using some OEM server fans, with great CFM and static pressure but they are a bit loud.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Pretending that years upon years of research into propeller and impeller design which has given us optimal blade shapes for various tasks doesn't allow us to interpolate how a given blade shape will perform is just that - pretending.
> 
> Again, prop/impeller and blade design is a really well understood topic, anyone who's studied fluid dynamics will be able to simply glance at an impeller or prop and tell you what it's for and the basic performance characteristics of that design. There's a reason why stealth submarine props and impellers look like GT's and not like this phanteks fan.
> 
> In any case, you obviously won't see reason so there's no need to discuss this further. You can go ahead and buy a bunch of these and test them, then eat your words when they're exactly as I said they would be.


I think you're missing the concept here by a long shot. Mind you I used to think along the same lines as you, but the level you are talking is simply not the same. Anything in this "watercooling/computer cooling world" is many orders of magnitude different. For example, you can spend over $20 per fan for the best performance/noise ratio, or you can buy some Rosewill Hyperbola fans at $10 each which perform worse, but what's gained? Sure you might gain one, maybe two degrees, but the point is, test it first. The phanteks fans, while they may not appear to perform, might actually perform better. Why? Heck I ask, why do you assume the fan blade design on the GT's is so superior when fans like the Swiftech Helix have an identical design, yet perform much worse? It isn't just one thing. The GT's have the right combination of all to make a superior fan. The phanteks might also have the right combination. We shall see...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Pretending that years upon years of research into propeller and impeller design which has given us optimal blade shapes for various tasks doesn't allow us to interpolate how a given blade shape will perform is just that - pretending.
> 
> Again, prop/impeller and blade design is a really well understood topic, anyone who's studied fluid dynamics will be able to simply glance at an impeller or prop and tell you what it's for and the basic performance characteristics of that design. There's a reason why stealth submarine props and impellers look like GT's and not like this phanteks fan.
> 
> In any case, *you obviously won't see reason so there's no need to discuss this further.* You can go ahead and buy a bunch of these and test them, then eat your words when they're exactly as I said they would be.


Hello pot, meet kettle. Just a little hypocritical there. If you are an engineer like you say you are, you should know that scientific testing is king. Speculate based on design all you want, but in the end it's just that, speculation. Until there are actual concrete test results, trying to convince people based on said speculation is like trying to fill a pool with a spaghetti strainer


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Pretending that years upon years of research into propeller and impeller design which has given us optimal blade shapes for various tasks doesn't allow us to interpolate how a given blade shape will perform is just that - pretending.
> 
> Again, prop/impeller and blade design is a really well understood topic, anyone who's studied fluid dynamics will be able to simply glance at an impeller or prop and tell you what it's for and the basic performance characteristics of that design. There's a reason why stealth submarine props and impellers look like GT's and not like this phanteks fan.
> 
> In any case, *you obviously won't see reason so there's no need to discuss this further.* You can go ahead and buy a bunch of these and test them, then eat your words when they're exactly as I said they would be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello pot, meet kettle. Just a little hypocritical there. *If you are an engineer like you say you are, you should know that scientific testing is king.* Speculate based on design all you want, but in the end it's just that, speculation. Until there are actual concrete test results, trying to convince people based on said speculation is like trying to fill a pool with a spaghetti strainer
Click to expand...

Exactly.

Im not claiming these fans are great or even good,Im saying wait and see before passing speculation as fact.


----------



## electro2u

Wouldn't this concern aerodynamics more specifically than fluid dynamics? Are they really that much alike? Do all fluids and gasses behave the same?

I suspect he's correct, but I was surprised at the way the hypothesis was presented.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I think you're missing the concept here by a long shot. Mind you I used to think along the same lines as you, but the level you are talking is simply not the same. Anything in this "watercooling/computer cooling world" is many orders of magnitude different. For example, you can spend over $20 per fan for the best performance/noise ratio, or you can buy some Rosewill Hyperbola fans at $10 each which perform worse, but what's gained? Sure you might gain one, maybe two degrees, but the point is, test it first. The phanteks fans, while they may not appear to perform, might actually perform better. Why? Heck I ask, why do you assume the fan blade design on the GT's is so superior when fans like the Swiftech Helix have an identical design, yet perform much worse? It isn't just one thing. The GT's have the right combination of all to make a superior fan. The phanteks might also have the right combination. We shall see...


Define "much worse". I've had both and dollar for dollar I'll take my Helix fans over the GT's any day.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Wouldn't this concern aerodynamics more specifically than fluid dynamics? Are they really that much alike? Do all fluids and gasses behave the same?
> 
> I suspect he's correct, but I was surprised at the way the hypothesis was presented.


In the engineering world air is a fluid.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Define "much worse". I've had both and dollar for dollar I'll take my Helix fans over the GT's any day.


Didn't mean to offend!!! Honestly I say "much worse" but I mean marginal differences. The helix fans are actually my second choice always and considering price and availability, helix takes the cake.

Also, purely subjective, but I think the helix are quieter around 1100 rpms than the gt's....


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am curious as to how you concluded that. I haven't tested these out fully, so if you have more info then I bet others would love to know more also. Also, what defines "outperform" to you? Airflow at a certain RPM? Certain noise levels? Noise profiles? I've only heard good things about San Ace/Delta fans run at similar fan speeds. Ditto with the new Noctua Industrial PPC fans. But again all this without someone like Martin having tested for sure as far as I know.


How do these perform compared to sp120. I would like to get these if they work well noise and performance. It would go with my phanteks case and other phanteks case fans


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> How do these perform compared to sp120. I would like to get these if they work well noise and performance. It would go with my phanteks case and other phanteks case fans


It's not very clear which fan you're inquiring about; he mentioned a bunch of different fans.


----------



## Spawne32

Debating on whether im gonna keep the jetflo 140mm fans that come with the nepton 140xl or go with something different, havent found anything thus far that seems to be on part with what 120mm offerings can do.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Sad thing is they still don't outperform gentle typhoons. blows my mind that to this day nobody has made a fan that performs better than what was released like 10 years ago.


there performance is so legendary that they have discontinued them

http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/fans/gentle-typhoon-120-mm.html

here is the replacement mmmh looks like even advanced fluid dynamics have conceived Scythe to advance their design









http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/fans/grand-flex.html

and by just looking at them it is obvious the fan blade has a sharper pitch near the center to combat the inefficiencies of the smaller diameter


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> there performance is so legendary that they have discontinued them
> 
> http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/fans/gentle-typhoon-120-mm.html
> 
> here is the replacement mmmh looks like even advanced fluid dynamics have conceived Scythe to advance their design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/fans/grand-flex.html
> 
> and by just looking at them it is obvious the fan blade has a sharper pitch near the center to combat the inefficiencies of the smaller diameter


Nidec still makes all 3 gentle typhoons, in fact I just purchased one 2 days and am holding it in my hand right now. Don't know where that rumor started that they were discontinued, nidec even released a statement saying that even though scythe stopped selling them they were going to continue producing the fans.

http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-GentleTyphoon-D1225C12B5AP-15-120mm-Silent/dp/B001Q6RUVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415400273&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+typhoon


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Just Think these are So Pretty












I know nothing about fluid dynamics and engineering. I feel Great though. Its friday!


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just Think these are So Pretty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know nothing about fluid dynamics and engineering. I feel Great though. Its friday!


What are those anyways?


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just Think these are So Pretty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know nothing about fluid dynamics and engineering. I feel Great though. Its friday!


90% of the fancy blade designs, shapes and additions are all bogus marketing non-sense to make said product seem superior to all others. The only 120mm fans I've seen that have lived up to their reputation are the gentle typhoons from nidec servo, and delta, sanyo denki, and panaflo. Other then that, every other 120mm fan ive owned has either under performed with CFM or static pressure from advertised, or was louder then advertised.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> 90% of the fancy blade designs, shapes and additions are all bogus marketing non-sense to make said product seem superior to all others. The only 120mm fans I've seen that have lived up to their reputation are the gentle typhoons from nidec servo, and delta, sanyo denki, and panaflo. Other then that, every other 120mm fan ive owned has either under performed with CFM or static pressure from advertised, or was louder then advertised.


Does that include the fans listed in my rig? if so, I will be looking for an upgrade.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> Does that include the fans listed in my rig? if so, I will be looking for an upgrade.


As long as you are happy with the performance from the fans, don't get into the trap of "upgrading fans". It is almost never worth it just for performance. Aesthetics and other functionality though- totally up to you.


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> Does that include the fans listed in my rig? if so, I will be looking for an upgrade.


I'm sure they are fine, just dont buy into the hype of all these fancy designs, those corsair AF120's are very good fans that match close to their specs. I think noctua's are some of the most overhyped fans on the market. Every single noctua fan ive owned has failed to meet the db ratings on the box. lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> Does that include the fans listed in my rig? if so, I will be looking for an upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you are happy with the performance from the fans, don't get into the trap of "upgrading fans". It is almost never worth it just for performance. Aesthetics and other functionality though- totally up to you.
Click to expand...

This,although its silence and overall quality for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> Does that include the fans listed in my rig? if so, I will be looking for an upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure they are fine, just dont buy into the hype of all these fancy designs, those corsair AF120's are very good fans that match close to their specs. *I think noctua's are some of the most overhyped fans on the market.* Every single noctua fan ive owned has failed to meet the db ratings on the box. lol
Click to expand...

Goddamn yes.

And the colour of a 70's prosthetic limb doesnt help.....


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This,although its silence and overall quality for me.
> Goddamn yes.
> 
> And the colour of a 70's prosthetic limb doesnt help.....


LMAO. Thank you all. Truth is I always really hated the way those buggers looked. Glad some people had the guts to tell it like it is.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> Nidec still makes all 3 gentle typhoons, in fact I just purchased one 2 days and am holding it in my hand right now. Don't know where that rumor started that they were discontinued, nidec even released a statement saying that even though scythe stopped selling them they were going to continue producing the fans.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-GentleTyphoon-D1225C12B5AP-15-120mm-Silent/dp/B001Q6RUVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415400273&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+typhoon


Scythe have discontinued them and sold/licensed the injection molds to Niddec to continue to produce them, Point being that Scythe have updated the original design


----------



## phillyd

So my loop is disassembled. Plasticizer from my tygon tubing is in everything. Any ideas how to flush it out? I'd like to be able to get all my fittings and submerge them in something for a while. I can take apart my res and get to the inside but the pump and rads could be tricky.


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> LMAO. Thank you all. Truth is I always really hated the way those buggers looked. Glad some people had the guts to tell it like it is.


The look isnt so much what drives me away as it is the fact that everything they produce, while quality, is overhyped in design. Their original low noise design fans were so badly designed for static pressure, that when you put them up against a radiator it would actually push the air back through the fan blades because of how steep of an angle they were on. The NF-A14 sounds like a fighter jet taking off if you look up some reviews on youtube, probably one of the loudest fans Ive ever heard, even against some delta's and panaflo's, and to top it all off, their prices are ridiculous.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> It's not very clear which fan you're inquiring about; he mentioned a bunch of different fans.


I was asking about the new phanteks rad fans. Wanted to see noise/perf. Compared to the sp120 I have. Depending in the price of the phanteks may switch bc I allready have a few phanteks matching case fans laying around


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Scythe have discontinued them and sold/licensed the injection molds to Niddec to continue to produce them, Point being that Scythe have updated the original design


don't think that's necessarily correct. Nidec has always owned the rights to the fan , including design. Scythe was just a reseller that didn't renew their reseller contract with Nidec.


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> don't think that's necessarily correct. Nidec has always owned the rights to the fan , including design. Scythe was just a reseller that didn't renew their reseller contract with Nidec.


This.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Scythe have discontinued them and sold/licensed the injection molds to Niddec to continue to produce them, Point being that Scythe have updated the original design


Is the other way around mate. Nidec own the GT brand and always was and still is the maker of the fan. Schyte had a license to sell the fan and they split apart like a year ago. About the new fan by Scythe been better than the GTs can you point me to those tests/reviews? I would like to look at that comparison.

EDIT @morencyam


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Is the restriction big with these fittings? About the same as with regular 90 degree fittings?

http://bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092918&kind2=51

http://bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093008&kind2=51

Planning on using quite a few of them with copper tubing.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So my loop is disassembled. Plasticizer from my tygon tubing is in everything. Any ideas how to flush it out? I'd like to be able to get all my fittings and submerge them in something for a while. I can take apart my res and get to the inside but the pump and rads could be tricky.


Darn that sucks. Have you taken the blocks apart to see how bad it is? Pics would help. I haven't had any experience with plasticizer which I would assume are esters but without knowing exactly what I can't say what would help dissolve it safely. Perhaps the best thing to do is force them out from the pump/rads and then scrub the rest.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So my loop is disassembled. Plasticizer from my tygon tubing is in everything. Any ideas how to flush it out? I'd like to be able to get all my fittings and submerge them in something for a while. I can take apart my res and get to the inside but the pump and rads could be tricky.


Oh boy....Just to keep track of this what model of tygon tubing was?


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Hello pot, meet kettle. Just a little hypocritical there. If you are an engineer like you say you are, you should know that scientific testing is king. Speculate based on design all you want, but in the end it's just that, speculation. Until there are actual concrete test results, trying to convince people based on said speculation is like trying to fill a pool with a spaghetti strainer


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> Im not claiming these fans are great or even good,Im saying wait and see before passing speculation as fact.


You guys both seem to have Engineering confused with Scientific Method. They are two ENTIRELY different things. Engineers are in the *BUSINESS* of knowing what's going to happen beforehand by analysis. Scientists make hypothesis and test.

Nobody would drive over a bridge that an engineer said 'oh it needs to have its weight limit tested.'
Likewise, no engineer would be hired if they couldn't describe how a fan design would perform before being hired to design fans.










Sorry, you guys are not even close, and again I don't know why I'm even debating this with you because you clearly lack the education necessary to even speak intelligently about the topic.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So my loop is disassembled. Plasticizer from my tygon tubing is in everything. Any ideas how to flush it out? I'd like to be able to get all my fittings and submerge them in something for a while. I can take apart my res and get to the inside but the pump and rads could be tricky.


I have flushed my loop a few times. The method that I've used is the one you can under the FAQs on our website. It works very well and you don't have to take everything apart to do so. I highly recommend that you at least replace all of the tubing and flush everything a few times with distilled water though once you're done. If you have any questions about this just PM me.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> What are those anyways?


Bitfenix Spectre Pro (White) @snef Look at the Bloody Angel Build in his siggy. He has them but with the Led lights. Pretty pretty


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@BramSLI1 I see you have the Swiftech Badge. I would like to know why I should buy 2 x Mcp35x pumps for my loop I am planning in my Caselabs SMA8 Build. In lue of d5 vario? I bought an Mcp35x for my brothers Parvum build and will be able to see the amount of flow its good for but I am asking for your opinion if you have one.


----------



## electro2u

Well that's just rude!! lol.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bitfenix Spectre Pro (White) @snef Look at the Bloody Angel Build in his siggy. He has them but with the Led lights. Pretty pretty


I just got some new ones to match the theme. Red LEDs x2. And sleeves should be on within a week as well. Then pics.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @BramSLI1 I see you have the Swiftech Badge. I would like to know why I should buy 2 x Mcp35x pumps for my loop I am planning in my Caselabs SMA8 Build. In lue of d5 vario? I bought an Mcp35x for my brothers Parvum build and will be able to see the amount of flow its good for but I am asking for your opinion if you have one.


What do you have planned for the SMA8? Can you list the blocks, radiators, and tubing that you'll be using?


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Is the restriction big with these fittings? About the same as with regular 90 degree fittings?
> 
> http://bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092918&kind2=51
> 
> http://bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093008&kind2=51
> 
> Planning on using quite a few of them with copper tubing.


I don't own those ones, but I do own bitspower 90 degree fittings and the angle part looks the same to me, so i'd assume the restriction is the same as long as they didn't change the bore design


----------



## ThornTwist

Do they make 45 degree angled ones like that? I'm debating how/ what I want to do. Either WC soon and another 980 later or 980 soon and WC later. Or if my check is big enough I'll do both. having some 45 degree ones could make a really cool build.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What do you have planned for the SMA8? Can you list the blocks, radiators, and tubing that you'll be using?


Easy. 2 x 480mm Darkside Rads, 1 x 240mm Darkside Rad, 2 x 150mm Bitspower z Tanks (attached to the swiftech pumps) Tubing will be 12mm EK Crystal Clear Tubing with all or most Bitspower 12mm Fittings. I will most likely run soft primochil tubing 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD in the under compartment of the SMA8 with koolance 3/8ID x 1/2OD compression fittings. CPU block will be an Ek Supremacy EVO

@BramSLI1 Thanks for asking too! I appreciate all the feedback from the companies on here so much. Almost better than the car business.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Well that's just rude!! lol.


Why Do you Say that? I am The Cautious One. Therefore I should ask the question right?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> I don't own those ones, but I do own bitspower 90 degree fittings and the angle part looks the same to me, so i'd assume the restriction is the same as long as they didn't change the bore design


Yes, got to hope so, I have only used EK PSC 90 degree fittings before (think it is the same as the Bitspower 90 degree fittings though). Thank you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Easy. 2 x 480mm Darkside Rads, 1 x 240mm Darkside Rad, 2 x 150mm Bitspower z Tanks (attached to the swiftech pumps) Tubing will be 12mm EK Crystal Clear Tubing with all or most Bitspower 12mm Fittings. I will most likely run soft primochil tubing 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD in the under compartment of the SMA8 with koolance 3/8ID x 1/2OD compression fittings. CPU block will be an Ek Supremacy EVO
> 
> @BramSLI1 Thanks for asking too! I appreciate all the feedback from the companies on here so much. Almost better than the car business.


With that configuration you should be fine with a single pump. I'm guessing that any GPU blocks will be in a parallel configuration? Either way, having two pumps will help with flow and if they're in series they'll also provide redundancy.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> don't think that's necessarily correct. Nidec has always owned the rights to the fan , including design. Scythe was just a reseller that didn't renew their reseller contract with Nidec.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> This.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Is the other way around mate. Nidec own the GT brand and always was and still is the maker of the fan. Schyte had a license to sell the fan and they split apart like a year ago. About the new fan by Scythe been better than the GTs can you point me to those tests/reviews? I would like to look at that comparison.
> 
> EDIT @morencyam










really I haven't looked at too many reviews of 120mm fans
I really thought the 120mm fans would be like the yesterday of 80mm
I brought my case because of the 200mm fan support.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With that configuration you should be fine with a single pump. I'm guessing that any GPU blocks will be in a parallel configuration? Either way, having two pumps will help with flow and if they're in series they'll also provide redundancy.


Forgot about the GPU Blocks. Parallel is the Way to go? I've read that somewhere but the loops would be separate. 1 for the Cpu, One for the GPU. I am asking about the performance of the Swiftech Brand as a whole and the small size of the Pump. How could someone compete with y'all?

THe Cautious One.

PS. Thanks for the Reply


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So my loop is disassembled. Plasticizer from my tygon tubing is in everything. Any ideas how to flush it out? I'd like to be able to get all my fittings and submerge them in something for a while. I can take apart my res and get to the inside but the pump and rads could be tricky.


I would suggest boiling distilled in your microwave and using that to flush your block and fittings. You could keep the loop together but I would separate everything and soak the metal pieces and pump impeller(s) and rinse thoroughly with distilled. Plasticizer is activated by heat which is why I recommend using hot distilled. Most of it should float away from the surface which you can pour out leaving the pieces in dire need of cleaning, clean. You may have to scrub but it's unlikely since it should be carried away by the (freshly fouled) distilled.









This is of course unless you wish to flush using tubing that contains any kind of plasticizer.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> I don't own those ones, but I do own bitspower 90 degree fittings and the angle part looks the same to me, so i'd assume the restriction is the same as long as they didn't change the bore design
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, got to hope so, I have only used EK PSC 90 degree fittings before (think it is the same as the Bitspower 90 degree fittings though). Thank you.
Click to expand...

Original EK 90's were the same as the BP model. CSQ is a completely different unit afaik.









Catching up; I couldn't help but notice that a fan that hasn't undergone any kind of hands on comparative testing isn't as good a performer as Gentle Typhoons.

I guess windings, bearings and blade design have absolutely nothing to do with how a fan will perform then. It's all spec at this stage of performance.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Alright so here's the setup of the loop:

Swiftech MCP655 pump,
Danger Den M6 Nickel (includes copper base)
EK FC7950 Nickel
Alphacool NexXxos rads (copper)
Monsoon fittings
Tygon tubing bought at least 1 year ago from Sidewinder
Distilled water + mayhems biocide

The tubing was extremely fogged, and residue of the same shade is everywhere. There are also hints of green (like copper oxide) in the GPU block and the CPU block (though not on any copper that I could find).

Pics:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Alright so here's the setup of the loop:
> 
> Swiftech MCP655 pump,
> Danger Den M6 Nickel (includes copper base)
> EK FC7950 Nickel
> Alphacool NexXxos rads (copper)
> Monsoon fittings
> Tygon tubing bought at least 1 year ago from Sidewinder
> Distilled water + mayhems biocide
> 
> The tubing was extremely fogged, and residue of the same shade is everywhere. There are also hints of green (like copper oxide) in the GPU block and the CPU block (though not on any copper that I could find).
> 
> Pics:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yup, soaking in boiling hot distilled should clean that up with some minor elbow grease applied if necessary. The blocks should be no problem. It's the FrozenQ Res that has me concerned as that is plastic. Might have to clean that by hand to get it good and clean. When I got my Res, I cleaned it with hot distilled and vinegar with Baking Soda in a paste to get the spots off the tube. I know that BS counters the Vinegar but I used it more as an abrasive than anything else. You may just have to get a new Res or try my trick. I didn't try the Ketchup trick with it being that it's not metal and I'm not sure how that would react with the ph level of the Ketchup. Might try that if anything else you try fails and then go from there.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup, soaking in boiling hot distilled should clean that up with some minor elbow grease applied if necessary. The blocks should be no problem. It's the FrozenQ Res that has me concerned as that is plastic. Might have to clean that by hand to get it good and clean. When I got my Res, I cleaned it with hot distilled and vinegar with Baking Soda in a paste to get the spots off the tube. I know that BS counters the Vinegar but I used it more as an abrasive than anything else. You may just have to get a new Res or try my trick. I didn't try the Ketchup trick with it being that it's not metal and I'm not sure how that would react with the ph level of the Ketchup. Might try that if anything else you try fails and then go from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The res should clean fine with minor scrubbing and warm water. Thanks for the tips!







+1


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The res should clean fine with minor scrubbing and warm water. Thanks for the tips!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1


about the (_reservoir_) radiators you might consider the blitz mayhens kit. I got good results from it this week reported here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/30#post_23089806

Since alphacool rads were the primary reason to develop the kit in the first place that might be a good path...But if you don't want to spend almost 40 bucks on the kit the advice on warm/hot water is a good one. Perhaps some sort of detergent too along with the warm water to help resuspend the plasticizer. The blocks should clean easily and so does the acrylic I think as well as the fittings. But what about the helix part of the reservoir? I think that was what @Ceadderman was worry about. Good luck mate. If you can remember the specific model number of the tygon tube I would appreciate that info.









edit - scratch the underline...I meant radiators...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The res should clean fine with minor scrubbing and warm water. Thanks for the tips!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> 
> 
> But what about the helix part of the reservoir? I think that was what @Ceadderman was worry about.
Click to expand...

Indeed it was. Soaking the helix in boiling hot water may affect the shape of it. Considering that heat is used to shape it.









~Ceadder


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just Think these are So Pretty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know nothing about fluid dynamics and engineering. I feel Great though. Its friday!


I have some of those, but red with led in 140mm format in push pull conf.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Alright so here's the setup of the loop:
> 
> Swiftech MCP655 pump,
> Danger Den M6 Nickel (includes copper base)
> EK FC7950 Nickel
> Alphacool NexXxos rads (copper)
> Monsoon fittings
> Tygon tubing bought at least 1 year ago from Sidewinder
> Distilled water + mayhems biocide
> 
> The tubing was extremely fogged, and residue of the same shade is everywhere. There are also hints of green (like copper oxide) in the GPU block and the CPU block (though not on any copper that I could find).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pics:


Wow, that is the worst I have seen. I used Tygon R3603 for a few months and my reservoir got a little green-ish on the inside, boiling water and dishwasher soap took that away.







Hard to get rid of though.

Anyone with experience with these fans? http://www.cooltek.de/en/fans/silent-fan-led-series/120/silent-fan-120-red-led-1-200-rpm?c=256

I use nine of the 140 mm version on my MO-RA3 420 and they are the best I have had to date, 900 rpm and quiet, they really push a lot of air. Have nine more laying around that is going on the second MO-RA3 420, thinking of getting 12-13 more of them in 120 mm for my Monsta's and a few more 140 mm's, even at 1200 rpm they are supposedly pushing 108 m3/h which is pretty good. The price is the big plus though, only 9 bucks per fan.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I have some of those, but red with led in 140mm format in push pull conf.


Im thinking of going with the Led Green 120mm


----------



## Nomadskid

Hey guys, so I got sponsored by Swiftech for my science fair project, You've probably already seen that. However I'm not sure which I should go with. I'm using 5/8OD 3/8ID Swiftech compression fittings. I know I want to use clear tubing because for my presentation days I will be using Mayhem's Tharsis Red Aurora. Just wantted to know if you guys had any suggestions for tubing.

Edit also do you guys know of a waterblock for a reference r9-270 (non-X), I've heard that maybe a 7870 block would fit.


----------



## emsj86

Hey I was wondering since I have my pump and res connected using a 1/4 x 1/4 extender and than the res is held by two round clips I to the cage it tends to vibrate a little. My question is if I use extra strength Velcro to attach rather than the screw and bolt will it work as almost a rubber pad would muffling the noise better. Has anyone done this? Or should I just get rubber washers


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Hey guys, so I got sponsored by Swiftech for my science fair project, You've probably already seen that. However I'm not sure which I should go with. I'm using 5/8OD 3/8ID Swiftech compression fittings. I know I want to use clear tubing because for my presentation days I will be using Mayhem's Tharsis Red Aurora. Just wantted to know if you guys had any suggestions for tubing.
> 
> Edit also do you guys know of a waterblock for a reference r9-270 (non-X), I've heard that maybe a 7870 block would fit.


For clear soft tubing, especially with Mayhems coolants, the only real choice, as recommended by Mayhems, is Primochill Advanced LRT.


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For clear soft tubing, especially with Mayhems coolants, the only real choice, as recommended by Mayhems, is Primochill Advanced LRT.


Thanks Darlene!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hey I was wondering since I have my pump and res connected using a 1/4 x 1/4 extender and than the res is held by two round clips I to the cage it tends to vibrate a little. My question is if I use extra strength Velcro to attach rather than the screw and bolt will it work as almost a rubber pad would muffling the noise better. Has anyone done this? Or should I just get rubber washers


I would find the source of the vibration if its bad enough to make noise. May have a fan going out.

It would make me nervous to have a res full of liquid not attached by a mechanical fastener.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Look into alphacool' gpu blocks, also make sure your 270 is the correct pcb that matches a 7870/270x.


----------



## lowfat

Finally no longer bare aluminum. Unfortunately the filler I use didn't hold up to the oven temp. Ah well.


----------



## Gabrielzm

NIce @lowfat







The powder painting came along nicely. The rad you painted manually or also sent to be powder coated?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> NIce @lowfat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The powder painting came along nicely. The rad you painted manually or also sent to be powder coated?


Thanks. The rads I painted myself. Although if I had radiators that had removable shrouds I would definitely get them powder coated.


----------



## sinnedone

Looking good lowfat.









I just finished doing the same. lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> NIce @lowfat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The powder painting came along nicely. The rad you painted manually or also sent to be powder coated?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. The rads I painted myself. Although if I had radiators that had removable shrouds I would definitely get them powder coated.
Click to expand...

Should of said mate,I would of done the paint for you if you had asked.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks. The rads I painted myself. Although if I had radiators that had removable shrouds I would definitely get them powder coated.


Yep, I feel you. Powder is a different level of quality (both aesthetically and in terms of durability/endurance - if that is the correct word in English). But you did match the color of the rad to the powder quite nicely


----------



## Nomadskid

How much thickness does podercoating add? I was thinking of getting my Spotswood test benches powder coated but I know that the tolerances are really small


----------



## VSG

Not much at all, it forms a layer with the outer metal surface itself. Depending on the type of powder used, you would get texture effects also. What are you worried about tolerance wise? The fitting between the parts?


----------



## Nomadskid

Yea, there are a lot of small gaps and such where nuts must fit in.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Yea, there are a lot of small gaps and such where nuts must fit in.


Powdercoaters can mask off threads and relevant gaps as per your needs, it should not be an issue in general. Is there any place where the aluminium rods just slide into place like wheel cogs/gears?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> How much thickness does podercoating add? I was thinking of getting my Spotswood test benches powder coated but I know that the tolerances are really small


A couple of millimeters. Definitely a lot thicker than paint. It definitely will affect fitment. If the fitment is already tight then best bet would be to file down where the fitment will be an issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, I feel you. Powder is a different level of quality (both aesthetically and in terms of durability/endurance - if that is the correct word in English). But you did match the color of the rad to the powder quite nicely


It definitely is. The first case I had powder coated back in 2008 is still in fantastic shape and I have banged it around a whole lot.

The rads are definitely a few shades lighter. The pic just doesn't show it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Should of said mate,I would of done the paint for you if you had asked.


Thanks for the offer but spray bombing is good enough for me, at least for old radiators.


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Powdercoaters can mask off threads and relevant gaps as per your needs, it should not be an issue in general. Is there any place where the aluminium rods just slide into place like wheel cogs/gears?


There are aluminum support rods that pin the bench together.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> There are aluminum support rods that pin the bench together.


Yeah that's probably where some filing might be needed unless you mask off the entire surface where that happens.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hey I was wondering since I have my pump and res connected using a 1/4 x 1/4 extender and than the res is held by two round clips I to the cage it tends to vibrate a little. My question is if I use extra strength Velcro to attach rather than the screw and bolt will it work as almost a rubber pad would muffling the noise better. Has anyone done this? Or should I just get rubber washers


lol, I have mounted a Photon 270 D5 pump tube reservoir combo - a big heavy thick glass tube res that's more than a foot tall - using Industrial Strength Velcro. It holds the weight quite well, almost too good if that's possible, and affords a small amount of decoupling of pump vibrations from the case.


----------



## VSG

Looks like Primochill has, among other things, a new lineup of coolants to be unveiled this Tuesday:







Looks like an opaque coolant.


----------



## electro2u

So my wife keeps telling me to put a plastic fish in my reservoir... is it safe?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> So my wife keeps telling me to put a plastic fish in my reservoir... is it safe?


Sure...Post pics!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

That would actually be kinda neat to see. Just make sure it's a fake one, and not one of those cheapo plastic jellyfish they sell at most big box stores


----------



## electro2u

I would want to do a rubber ducky myself, but she insists on a little fishy.









I'm just concerned it won't be what she thinks it will be. It will have to be big enough not to get sucked into the pump and it will have to be full of air so it floats, I guess?

I've ordered these:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IHM7PI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We'll give it a go. Hope the plastic doesn't mess anything up.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I would want to do a rubber ducky myself, but she insists on a little fishy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just concerned it won't be what she thinks it will be. It will have to be big enough not to get sucked into the pump and it will have to be full of air so it floats, I guess?


It will need to have some weight for balance or it'll resemble a dead fish floating around lol.
Think in terms of a fishing lure.


----------



## billbartuska

To much turbulence, it would bounce around like a wounded guppy.


----------



## alancsalt

Rod with threads - one end in the fish, other in the top/lid?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Fish in a res. I call a new trend if nothing else


----------



## alancsalt

Local smart alecks suggest it to me frequently..... they all think they're hilarious. Of course, they're talking live ones...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> To much turbulence, it would bounce around like a wounded guppy.


This is my fear as well. However, my res is a double bay unit and it has turbulence on one side and is sort of calm on the other. There is a divider to keep it from switching sides even... it's a long shot but it would be neat if it just happened to work out.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> This is my fear as well. However, my res is a double bay unit and it has turbulence on one side and is sort of calm on the other. There is a divider to keep it from switching sides even... it's a long shot but it would be neat if it just happened to work out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clever idea, the only thing to really be leary of here is if the tail is a separate piece and is held together by a very small metal rod. You would not want that getting into your loop...


----------



## electro2u

Fortunately the rod that holds the tail is also made of plastic! I really appreciate you guys taking this seriously.


----------



## ginger_nuts

If you kept your machine on I wonder how some fighter fish would go










Living and colourful


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> To much turbulence, it would bounce around like a wounded guppy.


And oh man, do they bounce around a good amount. I know this due to having a guppy tank. Probably shouldn't have made it a bachelor tank though - its really pretty due to the variety of colours, but I swear they're sometimes moodier than my first betta (my second one (a crowntail) deliberately knocked down his snail then ate it, so he is pretty moody and aggressive - my first one was a halfmoon and he was just a diva but didn't mind certain tankmates)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Some progress on "chessboard":


----------



## VSG

I can't wait to see the green/grey pastel in there


----------



## fast_fate

Looking good Gab'z









I recall some discussion about radiator performance in push/pull Vs push recently.
I thought at the time it was a pretty loaded question as rad designs differ so much, and every rad will respond differently, then difference in fan performance and there was no easy answer.
Regardless, I decided to run a test with a UT60 in push only with GT AP-15's.
I already had completed the push/pull test, so this was just an addition out of curiosity for myself and thought I would share









Without all the details I'll just post the W/10ΔT table that my data points were collected at...
and I charted the data with a polynomial trend line for anyone interested









EDIT - excuse the mis-matched colours, especially the red being opposite on one to the other







- sorry


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like Primochill has, among other things, a new lineup of coolants to be unveiled this Tuesday:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like an opaque coolant.


----------



## electro2u

I am now embarrassed I've been using any of their products at all....


----------



## sinnedone

Competition and choice is never a bad thing.


----------



## BWAS1000

Okay, I'm serious now. Best Kit Value? Most likely I'd swap out my block to Supremacy LTX if the EK kit isn't best, so keep that in mind.

EK L240
Phobya Pure Performance 240LT
Alphacool Nexxos 240 DDC/XT
Alphacool Nexxos 240 D5/XT


----------



## vilius572

Hello guys! I have two 360 rads in my system and I want to buy one more rad, this time 140mm. Will one D5 pump handle those three rads or I have to get second pump?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Hello guys! I have two 360 rads in my system and I want to buy one more rad, this time 140mm. Will one D5 pump handle those three rads or I have to get second pump?


should handle fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Okay, I'm serious now. Best Kit Value? Most likely I'd swap out my block to Supremacy LTX if the EK kit isn't best, so keep that in mind.
> 
> EK L240
> Phobya Pure Performance 240LT
> Alphacool Nexxos 240 DDC/XT
> Alphacool Nexxos 240 D5/XT


have you though about getting the choice components individually? That way you can get most of the EK kit but with a d5 and ek top and most likely by no much more...


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> should handle fine.
> have you though about getting the choice components individually? That way you can get most of the EK kit but with a d5 and ek top and most likely by no much more...


Thank you for the answer


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> should handle fine.
> have you though about getting the choice components individually? That way you can get most of the EK kit but with a d5 and ek top and most likely by no much more...


Just calculated
6 EK Compression Fittings(7x6=42)
Supreme LTX 45USD, only one mount, not both like the kit
EK CoolStream XTX A whole 87USD
Swiftech MCP655-B 90USD

Already at 263, and missing tubing and coolant, as well as teh fans and the AMD Mount. While I WILL get a D5 later on, the reason I'm looking at kits is so I can use the included pump for a future loop, I have a Core 1000 or Elite 130 thing in mind.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Last chance to vote in last months delayed MOTM

Link: MOTM
Get your votes in!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Just calculated
> 6 EK Compression Fittings(7x6=42)
> Supreme LTX 45USD, only one mount, not both like the kit
> EK CoolStream XTX A whole 87USD
> Swiftech MCP655-B 90USD
> 
> Already at 263, and missing tubing and coolant, as well as teh fans and the AMD Mount. While I WILL get a D5 later on, the reason I'm looking at kits is so I can use the included pump for a future loop, I have a Core 1000 or Elite 130 thing in mind.


you can try PPC too. d5 pump there at ~75 last time I look at it. Besides 240 mm rads can be around 50 or 60 bucks, even a HWlabs rad:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23905/ex-rad-693/Black_Ice_Nemesis_GT_Stealth_240_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s160

So, yeah, I would buy everything separate and have better components...


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can try PPC too. d5 pump there at ~75 last time I look at it. Besides 240 mm rads can be around 50 or 60 bucks, even a HWlabs rad:
> 
> Black Ice GT Stealth 240
> 
> I understand where you guys are coming from, if it was for one loop only I would have, but I thing getting the DCP2.2 xRes is very useful, as its absolutely Tiny, perfect for the other SFF builds, and the 2 fans with the kit are Gelid fans. Performance PCs have the D5 for 80 instead of 90, a decent savings.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can try PPC too. d5 pump there at ~75 last time I look at it. Besides 240 mm rads can be around 50 or 60 bucks, even a HWlabs rad:
> 
> Black Ice GT Stealth 240
> 
> I understand where you guys are coming from, if it was for one loop only I would have, but I thing getting the DCP2.2 xRes is very useful, as its absolutely Tiny, perfect for the other SFF builds, and the 2 fans with the kit are Gelid fans. Performance PCs have the D5 for 80 instead of 90, a decent savings.
> 
> 
> 
> then go with ek kit mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like is perfect for what you plan.
Click to expand...


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> then go with ek kit mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like is perfect for what you plan.


So I guess my first choice has been re affirmed. Now then, question number 2.

If you remove the bottom drive cage in the Arc Mini a 240mm will fit up front. I was thinking once I go D5, I can buy the X2O 750 kit and a 120mm radiator. the 120mm rad, DCP 2.2 and Raystorm can go in the other loop, while i can add the 240mm rad to the EK kit. Not to mention there are fans, fittings and tubing included.Again, includes both AMD and Intel mounds, which is my main reason for considering the extra cost (~25USD)

EDIT:Assuming I only use a 120mm rad (I just may, 2x240mm is a bit much), what would be my course of action?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Last chance to vote in last months delayed MOTM
> 
> Link: MOTM
> Get your votes in!


Looks like the poll's now closed. Drat, I totally forgot to vote this month.


----------



## judorange

My first loop












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Dortheleus

Sorry for the cell pic but this is my legacy case, running first tests now.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Pics of The Skyrim Build. - Still missing a PSU Sleeving job or extensions, but it will serve it's purpose for now. Also just swapped the 2700K for a 5960X.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> So I guess my first choice has been re affirmed. Now then, question number 2.
> 
> *If you remove the bottom drive cage in the Arc Mini a 240mm will fit up front.* I was thinking once I go D5, I can buy the X2O 750 kit and a 120mm radiator. the 120mm rad, DCP 2.2 and Raystorm can go in the other loop, while i can add the 240mm rad to the EK kit. Not to mention there are fans, fittings and tubing included.Again, includes both AMD and Intel mounds, which is my main reason for considering the extra cost (~25USD)
> 
> EDIT:Assuming I only use a 120mm rad (I just may, 2x240mm is a bit much), what would be my course of action?


Just to clarify, the FD Arc Mini R2 (if that is the case you have), does not take any 240 mm radiator in the front. It does not take the EK-XTX240 at least, I had to cut out the bottom of my case to get it in, but that will work better because then you have an effective draining solution (cheap one too). If you are not interested in modifying your case I would have chosen a shorter 240 mm radiator.












Spoiler: It can be looking like this when it is done though.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Just to clarify, the FD Arc Mini R2 (if that is the case you have), does not take any 240 mm radiator in the front. It does not take the EK-XTX240 at least, I had to cut out the bottom of my case to get it in, but that will work better because then you have an effective draining solution (cheap one too). If you are not interested in modifying your case I would have chosen a shorter 240 mm radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: It can be looking like this when it is done though.


Arc Mini R1 actually, meaning I would have had to de-rivet the HDD cage. The rad isn't the XTX though, only the XT. I figured I'd stick with a 120mm in front and not bother with the 240.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Arc Mini R1 actually, meaning I would have had to de-rivet the HDD cage. The rad isn't the XTX though, only the XT. I figured I'd stick with a 120mm in front and not bother with the 240.


R1 and R2 are exactly the same size, 21x40,4x48,4 cm

Okay, I think they are the same length, I have both XT120 and XTX120, I have also had 2x EK-XTX240. Great radiators, but the last I got cracked pretty quick.









Dimensions:

XT240: (LxWxH): 276x123x47mm
XTX240: (LxWxH): 280x130x64mm

4 mm would still be a problem, there is limited space in front there. Better go with the 120 then, yes.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, I think they are the same length, I have both XT120 and XTX120, I have also had 2x EK-XTX240. Great radiators, but the last I got cracked pretty quick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dimensions:
> 
> XT240: (LxWxH): 276x123x47mm
> XTX240: (LxWxH): 280x130x64mm
> 
> 4 mm would still be a problem, there is limited space in front there. Better go with the 120 then, yes.


''I just deiced on 120 because I didn't want to go all rivety on the case. If it was the R2 then maybe.


----------



## Jakewat

Ok just go a quick little question. I'm planning on having the setup drawn below, and wanted to know if this would cause any unnecessary restriction and also I remember hearing something about not having temp sensors immediately after the pump outlet but am not sure. This is the best place I can place a coolant temp sensor so it would be good if it could remain around the same location but I just want to know if it will alter the readings in anyway and/or affect any flow through the 4-way fitting.
Thanks in advance
Pic is a birds eye view
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpseda751fb.jpg.html


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I asked and they delivered.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=PARV-F1

no word on my Asrock logos though


----------



## billbartuska

A little extension...........


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> A little extension...........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks like a really bad idea to me to move the temp probe via an extension to a stagnant water part of the loop. I never got good temp readings like that from probes in a dead zone and also they seem to corrode / quit working in a very short period of time in that kind of environment (mine sure did in just a few months all the nickle was gone and temp readings were seriously off), which is why I now only use male-female pass-thru temp sensors so that there is always flow moving through them. They just work better. If I had to use a stop fitting probe I'd put it in an unused port on a rad or maybe like jakewat had it in the first place before I put it like you have done.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That looks like a really bad idea to me to move the temp probe via an extension to a stagnant water part of the loop. I never got good temp readings like that from probes in a dead zone and also they seem to corrode / quit working in a very short period of time in that kind of environment (mine sure did in just a few months all the nickle was gone and temp readings were seriously off), which is why I now only use male-female pass-thru temp sensors so that there is always flow moving through them. They just work better. If I had to use a stop fitting probe I'd put it in an unused port on a rad or maybe like jakewat had it in the first place before I put it like you have done.


So A in-line sensor would work fine being that close to the pump outlet? Just making sure. It would be nice if my res also had more ports at the bottom then i would use the probe. Any in-line sensors to recommend?

EDIT: Will probably get this as I will be using an AQ5
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-temperature-sensor-inner-outer-thread-g1-4.html


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> So A in-line sensor would work fine being that close to the pump outlet? Just making sure. It would be nice if my res also had more ports at the bottom then i would use the probe. Any in-line sensors to recommend?
> 
> EDIT: Will probably get this as I will be using an AQ5
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-temperature-sensor-inner-outer-thread-g1-4.html


WARNING
Had one of those and it leaked and I could not fix it. Have had multiple people confirm they experienced the same thing. Something about the AQ threading being odd. I tried different o-rings, vaseline, pliers&overtightening.

Got a Bitspower one instead and it's fine.

Placement of the inline temp probe shouldn't matter much if at all.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> WARNING
> Had one of those and it leaked and I could not fix it. Have had multiple people confirm they experienced the same thing. Something about the AQ threading being odd. I tried different o-rings, vaseline, pliers&overtightening.
> 
> Got a Bitspower one instead and it's fine.
> 
> Placement of the inline temp probe shouldn't matter much if at all.


Well the only other one's I saw on PPC were phobya, koolance and xspc ones. So any recommendations?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Well the only other one's I saw on PPC were phobya, koolance and xspc ones. So any recommendations?


Any of those will be fine. I have a Phobya ball valve for a drain and I love the thing, it's not pretty but it's hidden and it fits in a tight spot that the Bitspower valves will not.


----------



## phillyd

Got my loop assembled, bled and leak-tested! It went fairly smooth, except for having to move my GPU from slot 1 to slot 3 because the backplate is too thick. I'll have to take that into account when I upgrade to X99. CPU temps @4.6GHz/1.325v max at 80C, seems high for a delidded i7, and I guess it might be, but I've never had good temps. I don't know.

The GPU is maxing in the mid-60's with a 10% OC and 10% power boost in catalyst.

I'm going to take pics soon, hopefully tomorrow or Tuesday (after I get done playing with my new One Plus One!).


----------



## Ceadderman

I would go with the Phobya units that are similar to the aq version. I think Koolance may have something like that also.

~Ceadder


----------



## Jakewat

Just to be 100%, no one has had any horror stories with these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-temperature-sensor-in-line-2x-g1-4-inner-thread.html#Specifications


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Just to be 100%, no one has had any horror stories with these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-temperature-sensor-in-line-2x-g1-4-inner-thread.html#Specifications


I've not heard of any. Though to be fair the AQ curve taken damage at some point prior to installation. Leaks can happen for all sorts of reasons not user related.

~Ceadder


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [
> That looks like a really bad idea to me to move the temp probe via an extension to a stagnant water part of the loop. I never got good temp readings like that from probes in a dead zone and also they seem to corrode / quit working in a very short period of time.


I've been making then like this for years, with the tip of the probe just barely extending into the water stream at a tee. I've gotten accurate temps this way.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I got a bunch of bitspower stop fitting temp sensors when a online shop went out of business. Other than that, one modmyparts sensor which doesnt protrude as much.
i got them in places where water should flow. One by the pump one at the bottom of the bp res.

no leaks yet n i have abused the crap out of them on that build

Only other stuff i use is some professional grade IR thermometer(for res temps when my pc is off(my pump never goes off cuz its 120-220v)), and the chips' sensors.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Just to be 100%, no one has had any horror stories with these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-temperature-sensor-in-line-2x-g1-4-inner-thread.html#Specifications


It all depends on what it's screwing into . . . . .

The threaded portion is longer than on most BP fittings, and while some fittings, like extenders for example, can tolerate over length threads, most rotary fittings can not, and will leak.

I usually just mill 2mm off the end of the threads, which insures they work every time.

Darlene


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Got my loop assembled, bled and leak-tested! It went fairly smooth, except for having to move my GPU from slot 1 to slot 3 because the backplate is too thick. I'll have to take that into account when I upgrade to X99. CPU temps @4.6GHz/1.325v max at 80C, seems high for a delidded i7, and I guess it might be, but I've never had good temps. I don't know.
> 
> The GPU is maxing in the mid-60's with a 10% OC and 10% power boost in catalyst.
> 
> I'm going to take pics soon, hopefully tomorrow or Tuesday (*after I get done playing with my new One Plus One!*).


I envy you so much. Been wanting one of those for a while. Congrats on getting the loop up and running, btw


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've got the XSPC version of the temp sensor/plug and installed it on my pump top on my DDC and so far the water temps seem accurate (since the pump cools via the outside air instead of like the D5)


----------



## Jakusonfire

It
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Ok just go a quick little question. I'm planning on having the setup drawn below, and wanted to know if this would cause any unnecessary restriction and also I remember hearing something about not having temp sensors immediately after the pump outlet but am not sure. This is the best place I can place a coolant temp sensor so it would be good if it could remain around the same location but I just want to know if it will alter the readings in anyway and/or affect any flow through the 4-way fitting.
> Thanks in advance
> Pic is a birds eye view
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpseda751fb.jpg.html


It will work perfectly fine and they do not restrict flow.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I asked and they delivered.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=PARV-F1
> 
> no word on my Asrock logos though


I love PPCS, and looks like their website got a facelift since last I was there!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I envy you so much. Been wanting one of those for a while. Congrats on getting the loop up and running, btw


Thanks! I'm waiting for the mail man to come drop it off









My loop is looking much better than it was. The new block looks gorgeous!


----------



## aaroc

Some of you have two or three pumps in serial or two separate loops. I prefer only one loop. Do you recommend to use two pumps (Aquastream XT) in serial or parallel or only one? Before purchasing I examined martins and Namrons reviews and if two are used, they detect maximum/optimal flow and dont go over that. The same happens using one. I need to disassemble all the loop to install a second PSU and the GPU blocks and do some cable and hose management. All is loose right now. So this is the time to use two pump if needed. I bought two initially because I didnt know if only one pump would be able to work well.
Currently I don't have problems of flow and use the pump on its lower speed and use it fan less, but have all radiators fans installed and powered off. My loop uses Primochil LTR pro clear hose, in red what I want to install this week:

Flow sensor Aquacomputer High Flow USB ->Reservoir (Monsoon 2 bay)->fan controller block Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT(to be added now)->pump Aquaero Aquastream XT->QDC Koolance QDC4 Black->
RAM block EK monarch 4->Mobo block EK UD7 990FX->CPU block EK Supremacy->QDC Koolance QD4 Black->
Radiator Alphacool XT 45 420mm -> QDC Koolance QDC4 Black->
4x GPU Full Block EK R9 290X and EK terminal 4 -> QDC Koolance QDC4 Black-> (tobe added now)
Radiator Watercool Mora 360 9x120 pro -> QDC Koolance QDC4 Black->
Radiator Alphacool XT 45 420mm -> QDC Koolance QDC4 Black->

Other question, on the two Acool XT 45 420mm I have 12 Bitfennix Spectre Pro led (Red) that have a nice red led. Each fan comes with an extension cable to control the led from a button on a Bitfenix Case. It comes with a short cable too to close the circuit of each fan led. Any recommendation on how to turn on/off all 12 fan leds from a single button without killing the fans or leds. The leds take power from the fan and dont have a separate molex or connector.

Thanks a Lot in advance.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

In the dark corners of China.....



D5 top that shrouds the whole pump.





All bought for a princely sum of £50.

Nice to see if they are any good or not.

Probably not but you know,its good test these things.....


----------



## phillyd

That's beautiful. Hope it's good!


----------



## Lefik

Those D5 tops look really good... If they don't turn out well I'll make a mimic myself!


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In the dark corners of China.....
> 
> 
> 
> D5 top that shrouds the whole pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All bought for a princely sum of £50.
> 
> Nice to see if they are any good or not.
> 
> Probably not but you know,its good test these things.....


Locks nice. How is the Quality ?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

What looks best and what is most uncommon?

Straight copper tubing with these: bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092918&kind2=51 bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093008&kind2=51

or

Bent copper tubing

Planning on using chrome plated copper tubing, with Bitpower FillPort Silver Shining, my case has a 5 1/4" cover (that all the tubing will come into), beside from the GPU's to the reservoir and from the reservoir to the pump. Planning on using Bitspower FillPort Matte Black through mid-plate in the LD Cooling PC-V8.

I want to do the most uncommon way of hard line tubing, I do not want what everybody else have and I am starting to lean towards bent tubing ...


----------



## StangMan04

Finished my water cool build last night. Hopefully I will get a good overclock tonight. CPU temps are around 26c stock at idle and GPU is at 35c idle.


----------



## DarthBaggins

What chip do you have in your build @StangMan04 by your idle it sounds like you have a DC 4790k :thumb:Build Looks good over-all


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> What looks best and what is most uncommon?
> 
> Straight copper tubing with these: bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092918&kind2=51 bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093008&kind2=51
> 
> or
> 
> Bent copper tubing
> 
> Planning on using chrome plated copper tubing, with Bitpower FillPort Silver Shining, my case has a 5 1/4" cover (that all the tubing will come into), beside from the GPU's to the reservoir and from the reservoir to the pump. Planning on using Bitspower FillPort Matte Black through mid-plate in the LD Cooling PC-V8.
> 
> I want to do the most uncommon way of hard line tubing, I do not want what everybody else have and I am starting to lean towards bent tubing ...


I think having long runs with angled fittings is one of the lesser common uses of hard tubing; but it's a very thin difference given the popularity of hard tubing.
@Alasmodified has a really cool use of hard tubing; he runs EL wire fiber optic side glow through acrylic tube.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alasmodified*
> 
> glad you liked it. I did snake the side glow fiber optic cable and in order to be able to snake it in and out of the tubing I used waterproof glands. The glands are normally used on boats as a pass through for wire , the only that work in junction with the g1/4 threads are called pg07 glands. I also used a 3 way connector to fit all the connections
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a general idea , the cable enters through the gland and is snaked through the compression fittings and the tubing. I am surprised no one had attempted this before and if not you saw it here first..lol


----------



## StangMan04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What chip do you have in your build @StangMan04 by your idle it sounds like you have a DC 4790k :thumb:Build Looks good over-all


Thanks, I have a 4690k.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

My old, "ghetto" loop going back into service...leak testing...going back in my Shinobi XL and cooling the 2500K, even though the H80 performed well enough on that CPU.



- Apogee GT, Danger Den CPX-1, Swiftech "Quiet Power" 240 rad, Swiftech Micro Res Rev. 1, 1/2" Feser barbs in black, and "Muskoka" 3/8" tubing, no clamps


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I think having long runs with angled fittings is one of the lesser common uses of hard tubing; but it's a very thin difference given the popularity of hard tubing.
> @Alasmodified has a really cool use of hard tubing; he runs EL wire through acrylic tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks a lot for the feedback, it is really bugging me and I cannot really decide what to go for ... I will not use those EL wires inside the tubing, bit to "fancy" for me.







And you would not see it with copper tubing either







I will have long runs, but I have some troubles with tubing and my reservoir, because it will be placed about were all my tubing is coming.







Troublesome!









Hmm, it is kind of tempting going with the angled fittings just because it is uncommon, but bent tubing looks better (and is WAY cheaper), if I am going with fittings it will cost me 350 USD more, at least. This is just the angled fittings that I would not need if I bend the tubes myself, I am using copper tubing only, no acrylic here.









My biggest fear is the hours I am going to be spending on bending the tubing!


----------



## morencyam

I think bent hard tuning looks soooo much better than using the angled fittings for making the bends. Why not get the copper tubing powder coated to match your theme rather than chrome plating. I've only seen painted hard tubing a handful of times and it's always looked cool.


----------



## ShadowRSA

First attempt at a custom loop and i'm very happy with the results.









If anyone wonders which duel bay res they want this Monsoon is a no brainer. 6 fittings in total and it has 8 different light settings for everyones needs.

I can for example turn off my red fans and turn the leds on the res to blue to make everything match.

The temps are better than i would have ever imagined.

Looking at the massive water cooling loops some people build i did not think i would be getting great temps but WOW.

Stock with 50% pump speed and fans at around 1800RPM my CPU idles at 28°C and loads at 43°C while the 7990 idles at 30°C and loads at 43°C. That's damn impressive since it's summer here and 28°C ambient during the day.

With the CPU OCd to 4.5 Ghz @ 1.26V temps go up a bit. CPU idles at 30°C and loads at 55°C while GPU idles at 32°C and loads at 46°C

This is my first loop so i really thought with those thin radiators i would be looking at 60°C plus on the CPU and 50°C plus on the gfx card, so i'm very pleased.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think bent hard tuning looks soooo much better than using the angled fittings for making the bends. Why not get the copper tubing powder coated to match your theme rather than chrome plating. I've only seen painted hard tubing a handful of times and it's always looked cool.


I kind of want to stay "classy" and the chrome-plated copper tubing is matching my Acetal+Nickel blocks and my silver shining C47s I use, the theme for my build is black/red/chrome so it fits good with my theme too, kind of based the name of my build on the chrome-plated copper tubing too. I can use only 90 degree bends (pretty much) for what I want to accomplish with my build, so the need for 90 degree angles is kind of unnecessary.
Painted hard-tubing actually was one of my original plans, but I kind of went ahead from that when I bought the black version of the case instead of the white one. Thank you for your opinion.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> What looks best and what is most uncommon?
> 
> Straight copper tubing with these: bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092918&kind2=51 bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093008&kind2=51
> 
> or
> 
> Bent copper tubing
> 
> Planning on using chrome plated copper tubing, with Bitpower FillPort Silver Shining, my case has a 5 1/4" cover (that all the tubing will come into), beside from the GPU's to the reservoir and from the reservoir to the pump. Planning on using Bitspower FillPort Matte Black through mid-plate in the LD Cooling PC-V8.
> 
> I want to do the most uncommon way of hard line tubing, I do not want what everybody else have and I am starting to lean towards bent tubing ...
> 
> 
> 
> I think having long runs with angled fittings is one of the lesser common uses of hard tubing; but it's a very thin difference given the popularity of hard tubing.
> @Alasmodified has a really cool use of hard tubing*; he runs EL wire through acrylic tube.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alasmodified*
> 
> glad you liked it. I did snake the side glow fiber optic cable and in order to be able to snake it in and out of the tubing I used waterproof glands. The glands are normally used on boats as a pass through for wire , the only that work in junction with the g1/4 threads are called pg07 glands. I also used a 3 way connector to fit all the connections
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a general idea , the cable enters through the gland and is snaked through the compression fittings and the tubing. I am surprised no one had attempted this before and if not you saw it here first..lol
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

It's not EL wire . . .

It's side glow fiber optic. . . . a lot less problematic to run in the coolant.

http://www.wiedamark.com/fiberopticsolidcoresideglow.aspx

http://www.thefiberopticstore.com/purchase/SCSG/SGS-Fiber.htm

http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Sideglow.htm


----------



## Trestles126

quick question i didnt order enough 2pin to 3 pin darkside converters. so all my extra darkside LEDS are the 2 pin only. can i still hook up the 2 pin to a fan header? as long as i hook up the right wires to the right pins? by lookin at the 3 pin converter that only has 2 wires goin into it anyways?


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's not EL wire . . .
> 
> It's side glow fiber optic. . . . a lot less problematic to run in the coolant.
> 
> http://www.wiedamark.com/fiberopticsolidcoresideglow.aspx
> 
> http://www.thefiberopticstore.com/purchase/SCSG/SGS-Fiber.htm
> 
> http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Sideglow.htm


Apologies; been a while since I went and looked back at it, and I know very little about the actual lighting parts; just how it's implemented.

Edit:
Actually, depending on the type of EL wire used, the conductive part of the EL wire wouldn't touch the coolant.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Little Bit of Parvum for ya Here Link to the Build Log. Been Fun.

Had a leak going from the top rad to the bottom Mosfet. Redoing it tonight then final leak test. Haven't added the EK Pastel Orange Coolant yet. Tight Fit though









The Cautious One

PS. Go easy on us. First time in my life I've ever seen an acrylic tube much less work in a case that was only 12" tall.





THose are my brother hands after cutting tubing all night. Lol


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Ok just go a quick little question. I'm planning on having the setup drawn below, and wanted to know if this would cause any unnecessary restriction and also I remember hearing something about not having temp sensors immediately after the pump outlet but am not sure. This is the best place I can place a coolant temp sensor so it would be good if it could remain around the same location but I just want to know if it will alter the readings in anyway and/or affect any flow through the 4-way fitting.
> Thanks in advance
> Pic is a birds eye view
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpseda751fb.jpg.html


you will need male to male to connect the 4 way splitter to the drain valve.


----------



## RickRockerr

Hi all! I'm working on a watercooling just for gpu. Would a single 120mm rad like NexXxoS ST30 be enough for Gtx 980? I'm running H80i on cpu and because I have very small case I don't want to build a full custom loop and boil my cpu







I was thinking something like modded Kühler H2O 650 with GT 1850rpm and full cover block for 980. I have seen that antec's aio coolers can handle a gpu but I haven't seen any with full cover block.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Hi all! I'm working on a watercooling just for gpu. Would a single 120mm rad like NexXxoS ST30 be enough for Gtx 980? I'm running H80i on cpu and because I have very small case I don't want to build a full custom loop and boil my cpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking something like modded Kühler H2O 650 with GT 1850rpm and full cover block for 980. I have seen that antec's aio coolers can handle a gpu but I haven't seen any with full cover block.


I would think so. We tested these cards about a month ago and were completely floored by how little power they draw and how little heat they output. A single 120mm rad isn't ideal usually for a GPU, but I think in this case you should be fine.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Hi all! I'm working on a watercooling just for gpu. Would a single 120mm rad like NexXxoS ST30 be enough for Gtx 980? I'm running H80i on cpu and because I have very small case I don't want to build a full custom loop and boil my cpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking something like modded Kühler H2O 650 with GT 1850rpm and full cover block for 980. I have seen that antec's aio coolers can handle a gpu but I haven't seen any with full cover block.


What is "enough" for you? If you want silence and are ok with slightly higher temps it will work fine. If you want silence and low temps (again depends on what silence and low are to you), then perhaps now.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What is "enough" for you? If you want silence and are ok with slightly higher temps it will work fine. If you want silence and low temps (again depends on what silence and low are to you), then perhaps now.


Well i'd be happy if I can keep overclocked gpu temps under 60 °C while gaming and fan's about 50%. I think I'll have to try and see


----------



## slothiraptor

Has anybody used any of Alphacool's HardTube chrome tubing http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hardtube-13-10mm-brass-chrome-finish-20cm.html? Is the quality any good and can you bend it without cracking the chrome?


----------



## VSG

Quality is pretty good in my opinion, but I don't have a bender that large unfortunately. I know James Walt had bent it and said the finish was retained post bending but I haven't seen pics.


----------



## lowfat

Going to be starting acrylic tomorrow.









WARNING: Unedited pic.


----------



## morencyam

looking good as always lowfat








glad to see that build is finally nearing completion. That Lian Li looks so good powder coated


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Going to be starting acrylic tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WARNING: Unedited pic.


hnng









looking amazing as always lowfat


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> What looks best and what is most uncommon?
> 
> Straight copper tubing with these: bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092918&kind2=51 bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093008&kind2=51
> 
> or
> 
> Bent copper tubing
> 
> Planning on using chrome plated copper tubing, with Bitpower FillPort Silver Shining, my case has a 5 1/4" cover (that all the tubing will come into), beside from the GPU's to the reservoir and from the reservoir to the pump. Planning on using Bitspower FillPort Matte Black through mid-plate in the LD Cooling PC-V8.
> 
> I want to do the most uncommon way of hard line tubing, I do not want what everybody else have and I am starting to lean towards bent tubing ...
> 
> 
> 
> I think having long runs with angled fittings is one of the lesser common uses of hard tubing; but it's a very thin difference given the popularity of hard tubing.
> @Alasmodified has a really cool use of hard tubing; he runs EL wire fiber optic side glow through acrylic tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alasmodified*
> 
> glad you liked it. I did snake the side glow fiber optic cable and in order to be able to snake it in and out of the tubing I used waterproof glands. The glands are normally used on boats as a pass through for wire , the only that work in junction with the g1/4 threads are called pg07 glands. I also used a 3 way connector to fit all the connections
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a general idea , the cable enters through the gland and is snaked through the compression fittings and the tubing. I am surprised no one had attempted this before and if not you saw it here first..lol
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

While that looks sharp as a tack, I would think that it would add some unnecessary cavitation(for lack of the proper term) to the loop. Pretty sure that it would impact operating temps in some way or other. Probably not such a decrease that it makes running something like that ignorant, but just enough to be noticeable.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadowRSA*
> 
> First attempt at a custom loop and i'm very happy with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone wonders which duel bay res they want this Monsoon is a no brainer. 6 fittings in total and it has 8 different light settings for everyones needs.
> 
> I can for example turn off my red fans and turn the leds on the res to blue to make everything match.
> 
> The temps are better than i would have ever imagined.
> 
> Looking at the massive water cooling loops some people build i did not think i would be getting great temps but WOW.
> 
> Stock with 50% pump speed and fans at around 1800RPM my CPU idles at 28°C and loads at 43°C while the 7990 idles at 30°C and loads at 43°C. That's damn impressive since it's summer here and 28°C ambient during the day.
> 
> With the CPU OCd to 4.5 Ghz @ 1.26V temps go up a bit. CPU idles at 30°C and loads at 55°C while GPU idles at 32°C and loads at 46°C
> 
> This is my first loop so i really thought with those thin radiators i would be looking at 60°C plus on the CPU and 50°C plus on the gfx card, so i'm very pleased.


Welcome to Liquid Cooling. Love your collection of HAF cases. You're missing a few but I'm sure you'll get em.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Little Bit of Parvum for ya Here Link to the Build Log. Been Fun.
> 
> Had a leak going from the top rad to the bottom Mosfet. Redoing it tonight then final leak test. Haven't added the EK Pastel Orange Coolant yet. Tight Fit though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> PS. Go easy on us. First time in my life I've ever seen an acrylic tube much less work in a case that was only 12" tall.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THose are my brother hands after cutting tubing all night. Lol


You sure those hands aren't from the knurling of the BP fittings? Can't imagine cutting tubing could be so abusive to the hands.









System looks pretty good for the first attempt @ acrylic tubing.









There, fixed.









~Ceadder :drinK:


----------



## Ceadderman

Remove please. Thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadowRSA*
> 
> First attempt at a custom loop and i'm very happy with the results.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone wonders which duel bay res they want this Monsoon is a no brainer. 6 fittings in total and it has 8 different light settings for everyones needs.
> 
> I can for example turn off my red fans and turn the leds on the res to blue to make everything match.
> 
> The temps are better than i would have ever imagined.
> 
> Looking at the massive water cooling loops some people build i did not think i would be getting great temps but WOW.
> 
> Stock with 50% pump speed and fans at around 1800RPM my CPU idles at 28°C and loads at 43°C while the 7990 idles at 30°C and loads at 43°C. That's damn impressive since it's summer here and 28°C ambient during the day.
> 
> With the CPU OCd to 4.5 Ghz @ 1.26V temps go up a bit. CPU idles at 30°C and loads at 55°C while GPU idles at 32°C and loads at 46°C
> 
> This is my first loop so i really thought with those thin radiators i would be looking at 60°C plus on the CPU and 50°C plus on the gfx card, so i'm very pleased.


The HAF X is a very unfriendly case for water cooling, and you did a great job with it. Kudos







.


----------



## Ragsters

Can you guys help me with something? I am planning to add a second 7970 really soon but I am stumped on how am I going to route my tubing. A second card makes it almost impossible to use the South Bridge (PCH) block. Can you guys give me some ideas?


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Something like that would work if you flip your top rad around (is that even possible with your case?), though you would no longer have the rad before the southbridge...though I am not sure how much difference that would really make anyway. Someone here will though...

Nice build, by the way


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like that would work if you flip your top rad around (is that even possible with your case?), though you would no longer have the rad before the southbridge...though I am not sure how much difference that would really make anyway. Someone here will though...
> 
> Nice build, by the way


Thanks for the response! The second card needs to go in the second PCI -X not the third so that would eliminate that.







I definitely can change the orientation of my top rad if need be but I wouldn't know how to connect rad to rad without a ton of fittings.

Edit:

I was thinking something like this but the routing looks ugly.


----------



## GringoKillah1

What better to wash Radiators? Citric acid or vinegar?


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Your computer looks backwards and upsidedown. Why is that? Like as if I was looking at my pc in a mirror while I was upside down.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Your computer looks backwards and upsidedown. Why is that? Like as if I was looking at my pc in a mirror while I was upside down.


His is just reversed, mine is really upside-down


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Your computer looks backwards and upsidedown. Why is that? Like as if I was looking at my pc in a mirror while I was upside down.


Reverse atx


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Reverse atx


Why, are you left handed or something? or European?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Why, are you left handed or something? or European?


lol. Are you serious?


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> lol. Are you serious?


Yes. This is the weirdest thing I've ever seen. It looks not normal like I am looking at a European car.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Yes. This is the weirdest thing I've ever seen. It looks not normal like I am looking at a European car.


Curious as to how you feel about 90 deg rotated motherboard trays that Silverstone has. Is that mind blowing?


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks for the response! The second card needs to go in the second PCI -X not the third so that would eliminate that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I definitely can change the orientation of my top rad if need be but I wouldn't know how to connect rad to rad without a ton of fittings.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I was thinking something like this but the routing looks ugly.


Bummer you can't run it in the third slot, makes things much more difficult for sure. Honestly, I could come up with a few more solutions, but I always find it best to just wait until you have the parts at hand, and do a dry fit of your entire loop while playing around with what works and looks best. It's tough to imagine just how the tubing will want to flow and whatnot, how much space there is for what fittings, just by using your imagination and previous experience. Things you picture in your head may turn out less ideal than expected, or you might find some runs of tubing more aesthetically pleasing than you had anticipated. Good luck, sure it will look great either way. And I am sure we'll see a post or two once the parts are on hand


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Yes. This is the weirdest thing I've ever seen. It looks not normal like I am looking at a European car.


What do you mean European cars? how are they any different than what you are use to?
Im sure you are referring to left side driving? that is fairly rare in Europe.. actually, I think only the UK is using that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Curious as to how you feel about 90 deg rotated motherboard trays that Silverstone has. Is that mind blowing?


or horizontal mobo trays









got 2nd place in last months MOTM







(







)


----------



## DarthBaggins

A majority of RHD vehicles are in the UK & Japan. I like the look of the reversed layout on the mobo don't know what Mr. rhd is smoking lol


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Why, are you left handed or something? or European?


I'm left handed and British and I don't see the benefit, apart from if you had to put your pc on the left side of your desk instead of the right. nice clean build @Ragsters


----------



## gdubc

One benefit is you get to see the gpu blocks you dropped your $$$ on.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Yes. This is the weirdest thing I've ever seen. It looks not normal like I am looking at a European car.


One of the biggest reasons I can see for it is if you want to have your tower on your left but still be able to see the parts you spent so much time carefully choosing, then routing tubing for. Reverse ATX layout lets you do exactly that. Also, it's different from the norm

Only thing I know that's different about European cars is that they aren't afraid to tow stuff with anything (unlike here in North America where the belief is only trucks can tow). Also, there's a significantly larger portion of standard/stick transmissions, which I'm eternally grateful for. Sucks that there are so many vehicles here in Canada that you can't order a proper transmission brand new!! Slushboxes (automatics for those who don't know "track lingo") are great for those who actually need them (accessibility issues come to mind, or say those who need hand controls) but the lack of choice in such a transmission is infuriating.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me with something? I am planning to add a second 7970 really soon but I am stumped on how am I going to route my tubing. A second card makes it almost impossible to use the South Bridge (PCH) block. Can you guys give me some ideas?


You can still keep the chipset block with a second graphics card. You'll simply need to come straight up out of it into the cards.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> One benefit is you get to see the gpu blocks you dropped your $$$ on.


That's one thing that bugs me about "normal" cases, and one of the advantages of @GaMbi2004 Haf XB.

let's not turn this into though, how boring would the world be if we were all the same. That's why we are all on this forum, because we like to be different and not just sit there with the same black box pc as everyone else. Peace out and soak in the variety.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

The raven cases said it disipates heat better. I just think itd make routing cables easier with where they like to put psus(bottom of case) and mobo power inputs (top of case)


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> My old, "ghetto" loop going back into service...leak testing...going back in my Shinobi XL and cooling the 2500K, even though the H80 performed well enough on that CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> - Apogee GT, Danger Den CPX-1, Swiftech "Quiet Power" 240 rad, Swiftech Micro Res Rev. 1, 1/2" Feser barbs in black, and "Muskoka" 3/8" tubing, no clamps


What premix or coolant are you using there I like the blue


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What premix or coolant are you using there I like the blue


Just plain distilled water and food colouring, it's an ancient loop that I don't really care much about if I stain anything. The tubing is blue (navy blue with the slightest hint of green) as well though. It will nearly look black once it's installed in my case, and the res is hidden in the 5.25" bays. I'll post some pics once it's back in my rig.


----------



## morencyam

I'd be more worried about the food coloring separating and gunking everything up more than staining.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'd be more worried about the food coloring separating and gunking everything up more than staining.


I've heard some stories, but I always keep an eye on temps, and this whole loop is kind of what I would consider junk anyway. I've put worse in a loop before, I don't mind taking it down if necessary...will give me a reason to upgrade. I cant see it gunking up any worse then other additive dyes anyway, to be honest. They all seem to do it to varying degrees after some time.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> *Just plain distilled water and food colouring,* it's an ancient loop that I don't really care much about if I stain anything. The tubing is blue (navy blue with the slightest hint of green) as well though. It will nearly look black once it's installed in my case, and the res is hidden in the 5.25" bays. I'll post some pics once it's back in my rig.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me with something? I am planning to add a second 7970 really soon but I am stumped on how am I going to route my tubing. A second card makes it almost impossible to use the South Bridge (PCH) block. Can you guys give me some ideas?


That is sexy









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Why, are you left handed or something? or European?


...and this was hilarious


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> My old, "ghetto" loop going back into service...leak testing...going back in my Shinobi XL and cooling the 2500K, even though the H80 performed well enough on that CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> - Apogee GT, Danger Den CPX-1, Swiftech "Quiet Power" 240 rad, Swiftech Micro Res Rev. 1, 1/2" Feser barbs in black, and "Muskoka" 3/8" tubing, no clamps


other than your tubing and food coloring, how is that ghetto?


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> other than your tubing and food coloring, how is that ghetto?


Very old setup that's worth about nothing these days...all low performance parts, all heavily used. The pump is crap but reliable, the block is OK but has been painted and modified/hacked up to fit 115 socket, the res is very dated (can't even use g1/4 threaded cap, massive mounting tabs...stained...rad is on it's 3rd coat of paint and fins are discoloured...

I guess it's mostly because the typical setups here are much nicer?


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Very old setup that's worth about nothing these days...all low performance parts, all heavily used. The pump is crap but reliable, the block is OK but has been painted and modified/hacked up to fit 115 socket, the res is very dated (can't even use g1/4 threaded cap, massive mounting tabs...stained...rad is on it's 3rd coat of paint and fins are discoloured...
> 
> I guess it's mostly because the typical setups here are much nicer?


Some of my first watercooling parts consisted of some of the ones you are using there... goodtimes. Not even sure what happened, or where those parts are today.. hmm..


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> My old, "ghetto" loop going back into service...leak testing...going back in my Shinobi XL and cooling the 2500K, even though the H80 performed well enough on that CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> - Apogee GT, Danger Den CPX-1, Swiftech "Quiet Power" 240 rad, Swiftech Micro Res Rev. 1, 1/2" Feser barbs in black, and "Muskoka" 3/8" tubing, no clamps
> 
> 
> 
> other than your tubing and food coloring, how is that ghetto?
Click to expand...

yeah.....what Pc said!









Love the classic red and black, is that from the S.O.G. line?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question, how do you guys flush everything, do you to each part out of the case then put it all together or put it all together and run water through it?


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question, how do you guys flush everything, do you to each part out of the case then put it all together or put it all together and run water through it?


Yeah good question, I'm am soon needing to do this and want to know the best way to do it. The issue I could see with making a loop would be that if you run one lot of water through it then that water will slowly become dirty, So would you set up some sort of way where the pump takes water from a res but at the end of the loop it is disposed of and you just have to make sure to keep the res full? eg. a bucket of water.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Yeah good question, I'm am soon needing to do this and want to know the best way to do it. The issue I could see with making a loop would be that if you run one lot of water through it then that water will slowly become dirty, So would you set up some sort of way where the pump takes water from a res but at the end of the loop it is disposed of and you just have to make sure to keep the res full? eg. a bucket of water.


What you describe is almost something like the pond pump rad cleaner setup:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1360901/cleaning-and-flushing-radiators-with-water-filter


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quite a few around here, myself included, and kpoeticg, and skupples, etc (just to name a few) have put together similar bucket filtered flushing kits. That said, I'm not convinced it was 'worth it', as the bulk of debris seems to come out with the standard 'partial fill w/ hot water, shake-shake & drain' flushing method, but on close up inspection some finer particulate does sometimes get caught up in the filter. At the very least it does provide some extra peace-of-mind.


----------



## Ceadderman

I use a pyrex cup filled 50/50 distilled/vinegar solution nuked in the mwave and shake flush the radiator separately from everything else. Then run cool distilled through the entire system til I'm satisfied the vinegar has been rendered inert. I've got a 5 gallon bucket for doing that part.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

I just saw that Primochill revealed more info about their new line of coolants today: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.725336280883576.1073741894.136960116387865&type=1
Quote:


> finest coolant products for the avid modder and overclocker, and the tradition continues with our latest reformulation. PrimoChill True™ has been updated with the new Intensifier™ Transpartent and Opaque line of water-based dyes and to give you the most intense looking and glowing coolant on the market today. The revolutionary cooling formulation takes a giant step in the world of water cooling leaving the competition in a puddle of their own sweat. PrimoChill True™ is intended for the user looking to get up and running with little to no effort, while saving you money on with its insanely concentration levels.
> 
> Its clean, low viscosity and low chemical makeup creates an excellent coolant for your PC. If you are looking for an affordable and efficient solution as well as a peace of mind, the ONLY solution is PC True™. Trust the brand that has lasted the test of time, the fluid with the performance that is still top notch with the cost that is still outstanding. Ounce for ounce, PC True™ still remains your best choice.


Too many pics in there to embed here, so definitely recommend checking it out if interested. They all seem to be pre-mix concentrates, whatever that means, and gives a US gallon (3.78 liters) of coolant from 236 mL of each concentrate. Lots of color options in UV/non-UV reactive as well as opaque/transparent options. No mention of pricing/availability yet.

Not a big fan of some of those colors but I will reserve judgement till someone shows how they actually look once diluted in distilled water.


----------



## jpetrach

After reading all the options I went with the vinegar hot water shake-shake. then after everything was assembled I took the line that returns to the reservoir and ran it to a inline filter then to a pond pump within a 5 gallon bucket filled with distilled water. let that run the day. when I connected the finish loop I toped off the res with royal purples additive.

6 months later no issues.
link for inline filter. http://www.amazon.com/AICRO-Water-Filter-Activated-Carbon/dp/B000AM54MW/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415759564&sr=1-13&keywords=inline+water+filter

royal purple. http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Super-Coolant-Radiator-Additive/dp/B000BRGAJ2/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1415760114&sr=1-9&keywords=royal+purple


----------



## Trestles126

had a chance to mess with my nikon need a light box to really get the pictures a lot of you guys get but these shall suffice. just ordered some custom sleeved cables to match better from ICEmodz. Red black and charcol grey for all three main cables. as well as clear red cable combs

enjoy


----------



## Ceadderman

That looks awesomesauce Trestles. Love the look of your acrylic tubing setup. What's the CPU run to up front?









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Into a 90 down to my Lower rad heres a pic from behind the bay cover


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks awesomesauce Trestles. Love the look of your acrylic tubing setup. What's the CPU run to up front?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Into a 90 down to my Lower rad heres a pic from behind the bay cover
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks awesomesauce Trestles. Love the look of your acrylic tubing setup. What's the CPU run to up front?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Now THAT would be the only reason I will be running an angle fitting with an acrylic setup. No offense meant to anybody who likes the look. It just seems like a waste of money to run alot of fittings that can be weeded out with some good bends. Short of having to bend a 3' tube there is little that can be done otherwise.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

[quote name


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



="Ceadderman" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/75260_20#post_23127988"]
While that looks sharp as a tack, I would think that it would add some unnecessary cavitation(for lack of the proper term) to the loop. Pretty sure that it would impact operating temps in some way or other. Probably not such a decrease that it makes running something like that ignorant, but just enough to be noticeable.








Welcome to Liquid Cooling. Love your collection of HAF cases. You're missing a few but I'm sure you'll get em.










You sure those hands aren't from the knurling of the BP fittings? Can't imagine cutting tubing could be so abusive to the hands.









System looks pretty good for the first attempt @ acrylic tubing.









There, fixed.









~Ceadder :drinK:[/quote]

I am sure. He was cutting and my fingers were a little torn up from the Fittings. Thanks for the compliment. Just a couple snags here and there but the Acrylic isn't easy to work with.


----------



## Trestles126

Ya that 90 was a lil to many measurements easier to throw a 90 in there that was hidden because that was what i was thinking... I didn't want random 90 or 45 fittings showing in a all bended acrylic set up... Woulda been easy to throw a 90 fitting in once or twice but to me woulda looked weird either all fittings or all bends ( unless they r hidden
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Now THAT would be the only reason I will be running an angle fitting with an acrylic setup. No offense meant to anybody who likes the look. It just seems like a waste of money to run alot of fittings that can be weeded out with some good bends. Short of having to bend a 3' tube there is little that can be done otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## Jameswalt1

Parvum Warfare is complete:


----------



## Ragsters

^Redonkulous.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> [quote name
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ="Ceadderman" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/75260_20#post_23127988"]
> While that looks sharp as a tack, I would think that it would add some unnecessary cavitation(for lack of the proper term) to the loop. Pretty sure that it would impact operating temps in some way or other. Probably not such a decrease that it makes running something like that ignorant, but just enough to be noticeable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to Liquid Cooling. Love your collection of HAF cases. You're missing a few but I'm sure you'll get em.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You sure those hands aren't from the knurling of the BP fittings? Can't imagine cutting tubing could be so abusive to the hands.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System looks pretty good for the first attempt @ acrylic tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There, fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am sure. He was cutting and my fingers were a little torn up from the Fittings. Thanks for the compliment. Just a couple snags here and there but the Acrylic isn't easy to work with.[/quote]

lol yeah I believe it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Ya that 90 was a lil to many measurements easier to throw a 90 in there that was hidden because that was what i was thinking... I didn't want random 90 or 45 fittings showing in a all bended acrylic set up... Woulda been easy to throw a 90 fitting in once or twice but to me woulda looked weird either all fittings or all bends ( unless they r hidden
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Now THAT would be the only reason I will be running an angle fitting with an acrylic setup. No offense meant to anybody who likes the look. It just seems like a waste of money to run alot of fittings that can be weeded out with some good bends. Short of having to bend a 3' tube there is little that can be done otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Yeah it would look a bit out of place with a single fitting hanging out in no fittings land.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Parvum Warfare is complete:


Looking great as usual James. specially like the gray Aurora effect on the video and cross tubes above the reservoir.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Stahp it Gigabyte, Stahp it, What are you doing Gigabyte, Stahp it


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

My gawd that gigabyte contraption reminds me of one of those harness creatures the aliens have embedded into the backs of children in the TV show 'Falling Skies'


Spoiler: Warning: Disturbing


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> My gawd that gigabyte contraption reminds me of one of those harness creatures the aliens have embedded into the backs of children in the TV show 'Falling Skies'
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Disturbing


Pointless and Ugly as Sin, still it'd be interesting to see what a modder would do if they got their hands on one.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Well got my front rad / res / pump setup finally









Potato pic


Hopefully it works well, needed to ziptie the pumps clamp seeing as shes a bit to fat


----------



## jfro63

Hydrogen peroxide and a little vinegar, clean it up like new.. Replace all you gaskets and probably your acrylic res tank though..


----------



## Gabrielzm

What is the best way to remove the original painting from fittings (thinking about bitspower 90 degrees adapter)? I am not talking about the logo but the whole thing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> What is the best way to remove the original painting from fittings (thinking about bitspower 90 degrees adapter)? I am not talking about the logo but the whole thing.


With difficulty,any solvent good enough to remove the paint stands a solid chance of ruining the seals


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> With difficulty,any solvent good enough to remove the paint stands a solid chance of ruining the seals


and if is not a 90 degrees adapter, let's say a pass through like this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html

where the o-rings can be removed prior to any solvent what would you recommend? For the 90 degrees then is elbow and grease method I guess...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> What is the best way to remove the original painting from fittings (thinking about bitspower 90 degrees adapter)? I am not talking about the logo but the whole thing.


Tal-Strip II. I've used this stuff plenty of times and it is wicked. I originally used it at my old job to strip paint off damaged gas station ice chests. But have also used it at my current job to removed stubborn silkscreen and powdercoating. I know for a fact it removed the paint on BP fittings because I used it trying to remove the logo. FYI, it removed the paint but left the logo. To this day I haven't found anything that will remove just the logo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> With difficulty,any solvent good enough to remove the paint stands a solid chance of ruining the seals


Also this. You'll want to either remove all the o-rings, or buy replacements because they will turn into a sticky pile of goop very quickly.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Is that gigabyte contraption actually coming out?!
WHo would shell out that kind of cash and not just buy EK blocks?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Is that gigabyte contraption actually coming out?!
> WHo would shell out that kind of cash and not just buy EK blocks?


I can see this being offered by OEMs as a pre-built for developers who don't care much about aesthetics. It's a triple SLI solution with cooling and support, so not like you can buy just 1 or 2 cards alone.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I see ur point for devs and such but do they use gaming graphic cards? I just dont see the gaming sector being able to afford it and the ones that can would probably go with a custom solition. I get itll come as one piece cards n all.

I guess some idiots with too much money who think aios are the end all be all of cooling might go for it. But i figure its gotta be close to 2000 for that bundle/kit just its price puts it in a wierd market imo

But like u said devs who need power and dont care about aesthetics could almost definitely use it. But thats a super slim market isnt it?

I mean most of the really expensive cards just get bought up by gamers with money.
Of they arent bought up by extreme overclockers... and i just dont see either of the communities going for that. Especially since binning 3 cards at a time and not being able to return a single card would be like shooting yourself in the foot


----------



## jpetrach

Hey guys check it out 3 dollars at O'Reilly's auto-parts


----------



## DarthBaggins

I wouldn't use that in a PC


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Hey guys check it out 3 dollars at O'Reilly's auto-parts


You're gonna gunk up your blocks and kill your pump. Definitely don't use that.


----------



## dseg

So I was bored at looking at my empty TV stand and wanted something cool.
I looked everywhere for a case that would fit perfectly but found nothing.
So I made my own. Below is the before:


After:


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> Hey guys check it out 3 dollars at O'Reilly's auto-parts


that might be good for this, but i wouldn't use that in my WCed computer


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You're gonna gunk up your blocks and kill your pump. Definitely don't use that.


I used heater hose for quite a few years with no real effect on my parts that I could tell. I do lots of things though...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I just calculated that my loop will have 3480 mm^2 radiator area, with the total of 30 fans, 12x 120 mm and 18x 140 mm and that is just the radiator fans. Have three more that will be seated inside my case, also waiting on the Aquacomputer Aqualis XT 880 and some Bitspower fillports.

This is the current state of my build, The Silver Lining.



It may not look like much, but this will be goooooooooooooooood!









Be sure to check out my build log!


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I just calculated that my loop will have 3480 mm^2 radiator area, with the total of 30 fans, 12x 120 mm and 18x 140 mm and that is just the radiator fans. Have three more that will be seated inside my case, also waiting on the Aquacomputer Aqualis XT 880 and some Bitspower fillports.
> 
> This is the current state of my build, The Silver Lining.
> 
> 
> 
> It may not look like much, but this will be goooooooooooooooood!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to check out my build log!


I think you mean 34,800, because 3480 is less than 1 80mm fan.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You're gonna gunk up your blocks and kill your pump. Definitely don't use that.


why do you say that. the material is not listed on the package. I found that it is EPDM Rubber on the internet. is that bad?



I hate to speak to soon but I think someone just got


----------



## pc-illiterate

for those talking against the gb watercooled cards you must remember, not everyone goes out and buys watercooling parts. there are more all-in-one buyers than there are custom loop buyers. i will stake my next paycheck on that.


----------



## emsj86

Which makes it worse. I understand the aio maybe one card a stretch at two. But having 3 like someone stated above if one has an issue it's an aio your screwed outside of warrenty. Nice idea on gb part but be better on one maybe two cards


----------



## tatmMRKIV

basically It adds to what I was saying.. its likely gonna be 2000$
the people that use AIOs use them because they dont have that kinda money

maybe if its 1000$ and based of gtx970s or lets say the waterforce is an option and the cards come in singles.
like the cards are like poseidon cards and waterdforce is an addon


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Mocked up my loop just before









(potato pics I should really get my lights out







)



Love how clean it looks but I have a couple of concerns with these 2 tubes





There both slightly kinked, is that ok?

This tubes really hard to work with and kinks so easy but looks so purdy


----------



## emsj86

Crazy idea but I bet someone can do it. I want to see someone build a computer loop but either build there own case or mod there own case to have the premix coolant run through the case chasis it's self like a channel or run through the side window in a channel (with Arylic you wouldn't notice the big channel on the window. I've seen a guy make a desk with a Arylic channel just an idea I'm sure been thought of but I wanna see it done by a pro


----------



## Ceadderman

U r correct. It's pretty









But I am sure it could be done so long as it is not in the access door. You would have to have a fairly lengthy piece of tubing to do something like that.

~Ceadder


----------



## nismoskyline

here's my newest build, sorry for the crap quality, my nokia phone is crap when it comes to photos


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Took a Shot during the Day. Hope yall enjoy. Had to replace a tube and Leak testing now.

The Cautious One


----------



## p5ych00n5

Still waiting............


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Mocked up my loop just before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (potato pics I should really get my lights out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Love how clean it looks but I have a couple of concerns with these 2 tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There both slightly kinked, is that ok?
> 
> This tubes really hard to work with and kinks so easy but looks so purdy


I think it DOES look nice. It looks rugged and I wouldn't worry about those kinks too much. Just keep an eye on it to see if, over time with heat they get worse.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I think it DOES look nice. It looks rugged and I wouldn't worry about those kinks too much. Just keep an eye on it to see if, over time with heat they get worse.


Yeah it looks awesome, I wasnt to sure how it would turn out but I cant complain









Ok cool, this Norprene seems like even if it does kink you can re shape it back to normalish unlike the primochill stuff I got, once thats kinked its hard to fix it


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> So I was bored at looking at my empty TV stand and wanted something cool.
> I looked everywhere for a case that would fit perfectly but found nothing.
> So I made my own.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the before:
> 
> 
> After:


Nice!!! That is very well done


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And it all fits.....barely.





And the res side got its backing colour


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> for those talking against the gb watercooled cards you must remember, not everyone goes out and buys watercooling parts. there are more all-in-one buyers than there are custom loop buyers. i will stake my next paycheck on that.


yup, guess which one I own.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Mocked up my loop just before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (potato pics I should really get my lights out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love how clean it looks but I have a couple of concerns with these 2 tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There both slightly kinked, is that ok?
> 
> This tubes really hard to work with and kinks so easy but looks so purdy


It is looking great Aussie. I would add clamps to be safe and try to seat the tube all the way down. Don´t known about norprene but LRT could be made more manageable to work with by heating up a bit in hot water. Try in one spare leftover of the tube to see if that would help.


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Took a Shot during the Day. Hope yall enjoy. Had to replace a tube and Leak testing now.
> 
> The Cautious One


Very clean looking....I like!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Very clean looking....I like!


Hey!! I appreciate that! A lot more work than I thought IT would be. Haha


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is looking great Aussie. I would add clamps to be safe and try to seat the tube all the way down. Don´t known about norprene but LRT could be made more manageable to work with by heating up a bit in hot water. Try in one spare leftover of the tube to see if that would help.


Thanks







I do have clamps I just couldnt be bothered to put them o and I made sure to make the tube long enough to sit all the way down, this tube does fit pretty tight on the barbs tho which is surprising

Hmm may have to try that, I got almost heaps spare I went a little nutty and bought 10ft










I wouldnt mind fully hiding he tube that runs between both rads but I dont think it can be done


----------



## emsj86

I'm from the us where do order from to get cold zero parts/ mods I'm seeing there work all over and want to check it out to buy something's for my pc


----------



## natsu2014

Coldzero.eu. Store reopens in January


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Coldzero.eu. Store reopens in January


Thank you. Do they ship to the us and if they do wonder if it's an arm and a leg. Either way thank you +1 rep. Basically looking for a place that I can buy a modded gtx 780 back are for my ek gpu block. Some sort of design to match blue berry pastel


----------



## VSG

^ Yes, and yes.


----------



## stren

Finally got done with Project Thief - couple of pics - I don't want to spam so the rest can be found in the thread here


----------



## Ironsmack

Wow... great job man!

That thing must be a pain to move around to get that shot. I can imagine moving an almost full bar fridge.


----------



## Jameswalt1

The first of many final pics of Parvum Warfare...


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Didn't realize your rig was powerful enough to create mini-hurricanes in the resevoir!


----------



## VSG

That's Mayhems Aurora, and the lower the flow rate the better the effect.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's Mayhems Aurora, and the lower the flow rate the better the effect.


Yup, although I have to playfully say "isn't it technically Aurora 2?"







But no, look at the middle of the resevoir, in that picture it seriously kinda looks that way. That look is what I was commenting on, VSG ^_^

...Says the guy who rarely sees tornadoes, although Pine Lake was pretty close to home (I was on the on-call list for first aiders, but parents refused to let me go and help due to schooling finals *rolls eyes*), and I did get caught in the rain and hail of the tornado that swept through the southwest portion of Edmonton after doing a number on Devon (thankfully, no reported serious injuries) last year. Sucked having to pull over to the side of the road because wipers couldn't clear the windshield fast enough. Hail was the size of loonies, and news people were worried about another Black Friday (1987 tornado that killed 27 people).

I'm totally off-topic though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Coldzero.eu. Store reopens in January
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Do they ship to the us and if they do wonder if it's an arm and a leg. Either way thank you +1 rep. Basically looking for a place that I can buy a modded gtx 780 back are for my ek gpu block. Some sort of design to match blue berry pastel
Click to expand...

Last order I had from coldzero was 5 custom pieces (3 gpu backplates, an 3 way sli bridge. another small badge). It took him a couple weeks to get the pieces made. Shipping to the US through dhl was ~ €15 and only took a few days to get here from Portugal.


----------



## emsj86

That doesn't sound too bad. I m looking forward to his store re opening


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The tray/res has arrived from PARVUM!



Awww YEAH!


----------



## catbuster

This build is becoming more and more amazing


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Crazy idea but I bet someone can do it. I want to see someone build a computer loop but either build there own case or mod there own case to have the premix coolant run through the case chasis it's self like a channel or run through the side window in a channel (with Arylic you wouldn't notice the big channel on the window. I've seen a guy make a desk with a Arylic channel just an idea I'm sure been thought of but I wanna see it done by a pro


Or perhaps through the motherboard tray:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The tray/res has arrived from PARVUM!
> 
> 
> 
> Awww YEAH!


Now that is interesting enough to wake me up


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The tray/res has arrived from PARVUM!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awww YEAH!


Holy COW!!

Tray+RES in one piece? That is... do I have that right?
If so...


----------



## StillClock1

To Trestles126: Amazing build, what's the 5.25 bay accessory you have called that tracks the CPU frequency? I've never seen that before.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hoff248*
> 
> To Trestles126: Amazing build, what's the 5.25 bay accessory you have called that tracks the CPU frequency? I've never seen that before.


I believe that's an Aquaero 6 XT.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe that's an Aquaero 6 XT.


Aye, it is. And I just use the display on mine for a clock /sigh. Trestles is a new but valuable member of the OCN Aquaero Club.

You can sync the Aquaero to AIDA64, as an example, and then display any available statistic on the unit. Trestles worked pretty hard to get all that working, though. The Aquaero is extremely complex. I have a buddy that uses a Bitspower logo that flashes across the AQ screen when he starts his system.


----------



## StillClock1

Oh boy, that sounds a bit over my head - thanks for the info though, incredible builds on this thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The tray/res has arrived from PARVUM!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awww YEAH!
> 
> 
> 
> Holy COW!!
> 
> *Tray+RES in one piece?* That is... do I have that right?
> If so...
Click to expand...

Yup,I still have drilling to do tho.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Here. Why wasn't I notified of this Tray-Res combo deal!! I coulda used that.









Have a little bit of Orange Juice with my Coffee.

The Cautious One


----------



## tatmMRKIV

why did parvum do it? JW did you have them custom make it for you? work for them or something? or just throw wads of cash at them till they agreed?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im nursing a semi.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im nursing a semi.


fixed it for you


----------



## tatmMRKIV

That is _ULTRASEX_ ☆☆☆
♤♡♢♧


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just wow!! 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im nursing a semi.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Joking aside though, things like that is what makes me love this hobby/


----------



## ledzepp3

Only a semi? You've got a tolerance built up for this then


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im nursing a semi.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Would love to see the specs and price tag on this beauty.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im nursing a semi.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to see the specs and price tag on this beauty.
Click to expand...

Ditto.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakewat

Just a quick question about XSPC fittings. I want to get some F to F and M to F rotaries, and just want to know if anyone has had any particularly bad experiences with them as It's always hard to find reviews on things like these. I would get bitpower versions of the fittings but no one currently stocks any in NZ.


----------



## VSG

If anything, those are probably my favorite rotary adapters of any other. I have multiple quantities of each type (M-M, M-F, F-F) and no issues so far.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If anything, those are probably my favorite rotary adapters of any other. I have multiple quantities of each type (M-M, M-F, F-F) and no issues so far.


Great, because they are also very cheap for me here. Just wanted to be sure







.


----------



## morencyam

I have a handful of XSPC adapter and haven't had any problems. And they rotate much much easier than the various BP and EK adapters I have


----------



## Jakewat

Can someone please explain this. I have been going through news articles, then onto alibaba, then searching around and suddenly I come across this and many others. I know it may seem dodgy and most likely the quality will be terrible or even just a total scam, but the possibility of buying 200 fittings for something like $400-500 is so crazy. Just wanted to share this if the topic hasn't been brought up before.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/linkacc-js-56-G1-4-Matt_1916411967.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Can someone please explain this. I have been going through news articles, then onto alibaba, then searching around and suddenly I come across this and many others. I know it may seem dodgy and most likely the quality will be terrible or even just a total scam, but the possibility of buying 200 fittings for something like $400-500 is so crazy. Just wanted to share this if the topic hasn't been brought up before.
> http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/linkacc-js-56-G1-4-Matt_1916411967.html


Not sure that it's a scam. As there are lots or manufacturer deals on bulk. It's cheaper to ship in lots than it is in separates so that could be on the up an up. Not sure about the company at all. Never dealt with them. The only way to find out is to google them and see if there is any negativity regarding them before purchasing.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Newegg is selling the Phanteks rad fans now:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709037

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709036

I have put up PWM response and noise levels before but will measure linear airflow through a rad tomorrow and put it up together in here.

Edit: A quick search shows these are heavily inflated prices. I believe the 120mm has an MSRP of $14.99 and the 140mm at $16.99.

Edit 2: Phanteks store has them up at MSRP

http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-f120mp

http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-f140mp


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Newegg is selling the Phanteks rad fans now:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709037
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709036
> 
> I have put up PWM response and noise levels before but will measure linear airflow through a rad tomorrow and put it up together in here.
> 
> Edit: A quick search shows these are heavily inflated prices. I believe the 120mm has an MSRP of $14.99 and the 140mm at $16.99.
> 
> Edit 2: Phanteks store has them up at MSRP
> 
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-f120mp
> 
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-f140mp


Can't wait to see how they stack up.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

What would you recommend for a bottom mounted rad with only two 1/4 ports facing up. I was thinking the bitspower 1/4 to tee adapter than a 1/4 x 1/4 extender to add the mini valve.


----------



## Ironsmack

Ugh, with those prices... Im better off buying the AP-15's or noiseblocker's.


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys help me with something? I am planning to add a second 7970 really soon but I am stumped on how am I going to route my tubing. A second card makes it almost impossible to use the South Bridge (PCH) block. Can you guys give me some ideas?


This is how I solved my routing problem. Pick whatever you want:


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Ugh, with those prices... Im better off buying the AP-15's or noiseblocker's.


At the Newegg prices, sure. But since when has Newegg not taken any opportunity to increase prices? Get directly via Phanteks in the US if you want these.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> This is how I solved my routing problem. Pick whatever you want:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This might sound goofy but recently I realized that by simply taking a sharpie black marker to the edge of my video card and sound card PCBs I could eliminate the green color.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> This is how I solved my routing problem. Pick whatever you want:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for your response. Yesterday I came up with this.


----------



## rmorse27

This my latest upgrade to my current rig.


----------



## sinnedone

Opinions?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks for your response. Yesterday I came up with this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Too bad those XSPC rads aren't crossflow like the Black Ice GT rad I have, that would simplify your routing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Opinions?


Looks good other than those fittings dwarf the block, lol


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Opinions?


I love it, not exactly sure why yet


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> At the Newegg prices, sure. But since when has Newegg not taken any opportunity to increase prices? Get directly via Phanteks in the US if you want these.


I would if i really want it.

At this time, ill wait till i get more feedback and experiences from users.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I would if i really want it.
> 
> At this time, ill wait till i get more feedback and experiences from users.


Well here are some results from before if they help, along with that for the Swiftech Helix PWM 120. I will measure the airflow in a few hours and put it up also.







Fan noise was measured with the fans mounted on a rad and the sound probe 6" away from the fan.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Opinions?


Looks like an afterburner:


----------



## jfro63

Access to a CNC milling machine would be a key factor...


----------



## jfro63

It depends on what the temperature probe is doing for you. In automation we want to know temperature feedback in areas which will work logically. As an example, monitoring temperature of coolant after say the GPU which is predominantly an area of extremes in temperature. In my personal build I use it to control the fan on the 120mm radiator feeding the GPU (hotter coolant = higher fan RPMs). In the CPU I use the onboard thermal feedback to control the system pump speed and the fan speeds of the 240mm radiator feeding the CPU heatsink.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Soon™..



-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Lefik

I was never really interested in the Compact Splash; but that photo made me realize how much of a compactly-awesome case it is.


----------



## VSG

Not the easiest of graphs to follow, especially with no context in terms of other fans but I had to start somewhere!












Both noise level and airflow were measured 6" away from the fan and fan/radiator respectively. I'll get the same tests (and accordingly easier to follow multiple quantity graphs also) done for the other 120/140mm fans I have here in the same conditions- a single 140mm rad would be very helpful here though as I am currently using an SR-1 560









Edit: Included the title for the 140mm fan


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not the easiest of graphs to follow, especially with no context in terms of other fans but I had to start somewhere!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both noise level and airflow were measured 6" away from the fan and fan/radiator respectively. I'll get the same tests (and accordingly easier to follow multiple quantity graphs also) done for the other 120/140mm fans I have here in the same conditions- a single 140mm rad would be very helpful here though as I am currently using an SR-1 560
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Included the title for the 140mm fan


First of all, thanks for the performance testing (the graphs are pretty nice imo).

But that dBA curve of the F140 is looking a bit odd, is there resonance at certain rpm's, is it the bearing that's acting up or is it just a bit louder at certain rpm?


----------



## electro2u

VSG for Texas Senate!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> First of all, thanks for the performance testing (the graphs are pretty nice imo).
> 
> But that dBA curve of the F140 is looking a bit odd, is there resonance at certain rpm's, is it the bearing that's acting up or is it just a bit louder at certain rpm?


Yeah, there is a secondary noise source from the hub in this particular F140- especially around 89-92% PWM signal. It's replicable each time (6 times so far). Nothing unbearable and may well be this particular fan only.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> VSG for Texas Senate!


No thanks


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Curious, can we add a refrigerant like r134a to our coolant/di water in our loop?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> So that's what it is.
> I thought it was possible cos I saw some pictures of rigs with compressors in them.


Just buy a computer case that has a built in refridgeration system to keep the computer cold.

http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-xpressar-microfridge-case.html

--EDIT--
Apparently this thing has been discontinued for quite some time.

However, there is this: http://www.aliexpress.com/popular/refrigerated-computer-cooling.html

and


----------



## Buehlar

@VSG if I'm reading correctly, the difference appears to be very minimal betweem the 120 vs 140.
Interested in seeing the results between other models you'll be testing.
What brands & models do you have?
Will you be creating a thread for this data?

I have a few different 120's if you're interested.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> @VSG if I'm reading correctly, the difference appears to be very minimal betweem the 120 vs 140.
> Interested in seeing the results between other models you'll be testing.
> What brands & models do you have?
> Will you be creating a thread for this data?
> 
> I have a few different 120's if you're interested.


Martin has already covered a ton of fans, and very well too! I have a few different fans which I plan to use in my TX10-D/380T build so as with all the other tests/reviews, they are all based on a selfish motive to begin with and then expand depending on how things go.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Martin has already covered a ton of fans, and very well too! I have a few different fans which I plan to use in my TX10-D/380T build so as with all the other tests/reviews, they are all based on a selfish motive to begin with and then expand depending on how things go.


Oh I see, :thumb
Got a quick linly to Martin's thread?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Oh I see, :thumb
> Got a quick linly to Martin's thread?


It's a series of articles on his website: http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/

Hope you got some time to kill, because that's some excellent work!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Too bad those XSPC rads aren't crossflow like the Black Ice GT rad I have, that would simplify your routing
> Looks good other than those fittings dwarf the block, lol


lol Thank you. I'm hoping everything balances out when mounted.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I love it, not exactly sure why yet


Thanks, hopefully when finished it will come to you. lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Looks like an afterburner:


Lol so funny. Thanks for that.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's a series of articles on his website: http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/
> 
> Hope you got some time to kill, because that's some excellent work!


My gawdy... yea, that's a ton of research.
Thanks +rep


----------



## RatDog

I like pie


----------



## Ceadderman

NoOHLooks like the 120 is the way to go. Do ya have the comparable gentle typhoon information to put it into the proper perspective? Cause they're pretty much the same costwise.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> NoOHLooks like the 120 is the way to go. Do ya have the comparable gentle typhoon information to put it into the proper perspective? Cause they're pretty much the same costwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Was this meant for me? The GTs are mostly not available internationally other than in the US from Coolerguys at $23 compared to this at $15 so at this point it isn't a great comparison. I do have a couple of AP-45s which I will test out in the same conditions, along with all the eloops and a few others.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i need a favor from anyone who can help.
i would like to know the rpm of a gt ap-15 at 5v and 7v if anyone can help me, please.
thank you in advance. a virtual cookie for the quickest answer...


----------



## DeXel

I don't have very precise voltage measurement with Lamptron FC Touch, but at 5V they run at 750 RPM and at 7V 990 RPM. I can use my DMM if you need precisely.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i need a favor from anyone who can help.
> i would like to know the rpm of a gt ap-15 at 5v and 7v if anyone can help me, please.
> thank you in advance. a virtual cookie for the quickest answer...


7v = 1134 rpm
5 v = 783 rpm

readings and setting in Aquaero LT with only one fan in the channel. With more fans expect a little drop in rpm.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I don't have very precise voltage measurement with Lamptron FC Touch, but at 5V they run at 750 RPM and at 7V 990 RPM. I can use my DMM if you need precisely.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 7v = 1134 rpm
> 5 v = 783 rpm
> 
> readings and setting in Aquaero LT with only one fan in the channel. With more fans expect a little drop in rpm.


so for variables in fan quality lets assume 750-800rpm for 5v and 1000-1100rpm for 7v.
thank you both very much. i hope you both have a great day.

after 2 1/2 weeks sitting in a corner, this should finally be in my new case next weekend


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> so for variables in fan quality lets assume 750-800rpm for 5v and 1000-1100rpm for 7v.
> thank you both very much. i hope you both have a great day.
> 
> after 2 1/2 weeks sitting in a corner, this should finally be in my new case next weekend
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome mate. that is a beauty









The voltage drop is actually quite small in the GTs due to putting several on the same channel. Just replicated what I did now with 4 Gts in the same Aquaero 5 lt fan header using a splitter (darkside):

5v = 777 rpm
7v = 1137 rpm

in fact the 7v reads the same or even slightly above.


----------



## Sammyboy83

Finally finished with the loop. Bending the tubes to right lenght was not that easy, espesially this was my first try. Going to leak test, hoping for the best.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like the 12
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> NoOHLooks like the 120 is the way to go. Do ya have the comparable gentle typhoon information to put it into the proper perspective? Cause they're pretty much the same costwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was this meant for me? The GTs are mostly not available internationally other than in the US from Coolerguys at $23 compared to this at $15 so at this point it isn't a great comparison. I do have a couple of AP-45s which I will test out in the same conditions, along with all the eloops and a few others.
Click to expand...

Yup it was. If I buy direct then yeah it's cheaper. But if I go through the egg it's pretty much the same price.









But yeah I would like to see what the overall results will be cause I am gonna be in the market for fans. Love my Yate Loons but they aren't specifically a Radiator fan though they perform pretty well imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Welcome mate. that is a beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The voltage drop is actually quite small in the GTs due to putting several on the same channel. Just replicated what I did now with 4 Gts in the same Aquaero 5 lt fan header using a splitter (darkside):
> 
> 5v = 777 rpm
> 7v = 1137 rpm
> 
> in fact the 7v reads the same or even slightly above.


Just measured voltage with DMM (because FC Touch reading was jumping from 6 to 7v or 7v to 8v, so couldn't really figure out where it was actually 7v). At 6.98v, the RPM reading is 1080rpm, so scrap that 990 I got before.

And at 5v it is ~740 RPM.

Much closer now.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Was this meant for me? The GTs are mostly not available internationally other than in the US from Coolerguys at $23 compared to this at $15 so at this point it isn't a great comparison. I do have a couple of AP-45s which I will test out in the same conditions, along with all the eloops and a few others.


Minor correction, or not really a correction so much as just some added info to that.

Coolerguys has 1450rpm and 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons (formerly Scythe's AP-14 and AP-15s, respectively) for $19.95, unless you are buying from their Amazon page instead of their site which does charge more - $23 - but is also Prime / free shipping eligible, so might be good to compare either way. For example, I opted for 16 of the fans from the coolerguys site and shipping was ~$20. Same fans shipped would have cost me $29 more to get them from Amazon.

Just for comparison, the Phanteks MP fans are $21 on Newegg w/ free shipping or $15 from Phanteksusa & iirc they have a $10 flat rate as their cheapest shipping option, so again, probably matters how many you are planning to buy which makes more sense.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Just measured voltage with DMM (because FC Touch reading was jumping from 6 to 7v or 7v to 8v, so couldn't really figure out where it was actually 7v). At 6.98v, the RPM reading is 1080rpm, so scrap that 990 I got before.
> 
> And at 5v it is ~740 RPM.
> 
> Much closer now.


yep, that's seems accurate to me mate. I notice my aquaero was reading 1880 rpm at 12 v so most likely was over-estimating the actual rpm a bit.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Minor correction, or not really a correction so much as just some added info to that.
> 
> Coolerguys has 1450rpm and 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons (formerly Scythe's AP-14 and AP-15s, respectively) for $19.95, unless you are buying from their Amazon page instead of their site which does charge more - $23 - but is also Prime / free shipping eligible, so might be good to compare either way. For example, I opted for 16 of the fans from the coolerguys site and shipping was ~$20. Same fans shipped would have cost me $29 more to get them from Amazon.
> 
> Just for comparison, the Phanteks MP fans are $21 on Newegg w/ free shipping or $15 from Phanteksusa & iirc they have a $10 flat rate as their cheapest shipping option, so again, probably matters how many you are planning to buy which makes more sense.


Good point throughout









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep, that's seems accurate to me mate. I notice my aquaero was reading 1880 rpm at 12 v so most likely was over-estimating the actual rpm a bit.


There's a +/- 10% that fan manufacturers like to use whenever monitored RPMs don't match advertized specs- especially when lower. The higher RPM eloops come close to breaking even that 10% leeway I've found.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Good point throughout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a +/- 10% that fan manufacturers like to use whenever monitored RPMs don't match advertized specs- especially when lower. The higher RPM eloops come close to breaking even that 10% leeway I've found.


Yep there is that I agree. But there is also the fact that our gear not necessarily are high accurate measurement devices (like the Aquaero) so there is another source of uncontrolled variation there....Was checking the results with Martin's here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/04/24/fan-testing-round-11/

he does not have the exact values at 5v and 7v but is pretty close.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> so for variables in fan quality lets assume 750-800rpm for 5v and 1000-1100rpm for 7v.
> thank you both very much. i hope you both have a great day.
> 
> after 2 1/2 weeks sitting in a corner, this should finally be in my new case next weekend


Thermochill PA120.4? I've had the same one for almost four years and have never had any prob'ems with it. I Love it. Too bad they aren't made anymore


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Thermochill PA120.4? I've had the same one for almost four years and have never had any prob'ems with it. I Love it. Too bad they aren't made anymore


and i got it half priced with free overnight shipping. the seller was actually @TheSwami.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing job!


----------



## siffonen

Can a DDC-pump heat up water in a loop?
My brother has some heat problem whit hes system. He has a I7-2600K with 780ti, EK waterblocks, ddc-pump, EK XT360 and 240 Monsta rads.
Air coming from rads are hot, around 40-45 celsius, and gpus are around 60c.
Imo those temps are way too high, because i had 2600K and 680sli with 480 rad, and my temps are much lower.
My suspicion is that the pump is causing these problems, martinsliguidlab measured up to 100c temps inside the pump, could the pump be the issue?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Can a DDC-pump heat up water in a loop?
> My brother has some heat problem whit hes system. He has a I7-2600K with 780ti, EK waterblocks, ddc-pump, EK XT360 and 240 Monsta rads.
> Air coming from rads are hot, around 40-45 celsius, and gpus are around 60c.
> Imo those temps are way too high, because i had 2600K and 680sli with 480 rad, and my temps are much lower.
> My suspicion is that the pump is causing these problems, martinsliguidlab measured up to 100c temps inside the pump, could the pump be the issue?


Unlike a D5 which dispels most of its heat into the loop, DDCs dispel nearly all of their heat into the air surrounding the pump, mostly through it's base which can get quite hot especially if ran at full speed for an extended period, even more so if used a loop with a low amount of restriction, both of which are common contributing factors in DDC's well-known heat-related reliability issues. That's why several companies sell heatsinks for the DDC.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Can a DDC-pump heat up water in a loop?
> My brother has some heat problem whit hes system. He has a I7-2600K with 780ti, EK waterblocks, ddc-pump, EK XT360 and 240 Monsta rads.
> Air coming from rads are hot, around 40-45 celsius, and gpus are around 60c.
> Imo those temps are way too high, because i had 2600K and 680sli with 480 rad, and my temps are much lower.
> My suspicion is that the pump is causing these problems, martinsliguidlab measured up to 100c temps inside the pump, could the pump be the issue?


The pump can overheat. But it can't heat up your loop, temperature =/= heat. A ddc pump can only pull a max of 10w so it can't dump more than 10w of heat in your loop. I think you should look elsewhere for the issue. Maybe a faulty pump, bad block mounting, restrictions in the loop. Etc...


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The pump can overheat. But it can't heat up your loop, temperature =/= heat. A ddc pump can only pull a max of 10w so it can't dump more than 10w of heat in your loop. I think you should look elsewhere for the issue. Maybe a faulty pump, bad block mounting, restrictions in the loop. Etc...


Pumps specs says that nominal power is 18w, he has it running at full speed.
Everything else is checked so pump is the only choice. He has the pump mounted to xspc bay res that is designed for that pump, and even the reservoir heats up.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Pumps specs says that nominal power is 18w, he has it running at full speed.
> Everything else is checked so pump is the only choice. He has the pump mounted to xspc bay res that is designed for that pump, and even the reservoir heats up.


I wouldn't recommend running a ddc at full speed. They have so much pressure its pretty much pointless. Turn it down a little. The noise will be much more bearable too. The heatsink on mine does get warm to the touch. But it no longer gets hot.

Like i said. A DDC is not going to heat up your loop. Are you sure your pump isn't faulty?


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Pumps specs says that nominal power is 18w, he has it running at full speed.
> Everything else is checked so pump is the only choice. He has the pump mounted to xspc bay res that is designed for that pump, and even the reservoir heats up.
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't recommend running a ddc at full speed. They have so much pressure its pretty much pointless. Turn it down a little. The noise will be much more bearable too. The heatsink on mine does get warm to the touch. But it no longer gets hot.
> 
> Like i said. A DDC is not going to heat up your loop. Are you sure your pump isn't faulty?
Click to expand...

Pump has has problems with not starting so it might be faulty.


----------



## iRoddazzz

thought id upload my watercooling rig, see what you guys think of it.


----------



## sdmf74

Finally Noctua released some fans that arent butt ugly however Different color rubber corner mounts should be offered but are probably removable.

Is anyone using these Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-*3000 PWM* fans on a MVIIF or any Asus ROG motherboard? I found this in their q&a:



The reason I ask about the MAXIMUS VII FORMULA motherboard in particular is because although it is the first formula board to offer DC/PWM switching in the bios it also lists the headers in the motherboard's
manual like you see in option 2 above which could cause the fan not to start. (im referring to the cha headers,not cpu/cpu opt. headers)

Im thinkin these might be a good alternative to my gentle typhoon high speed PWM fans (also 3000 rpms) but have almost twice the input power/current


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finally Noctua released some fans that arent butt ugly however Different color rubber corner mounts should be offered but are probably removable.
> 
> Is anyone using these Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-*3000 PWM* fans on a MVIIF or any Asus ROG motherboard? I found this in their q&a:
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I ask about the MAXIMUS VII FORMULA motherboard in particular is because although it is the first formula board to offer DC/PWM switching in the bios it also lists the headers in the motherboard's
> manual like you see in option 2 above which could cause the fan not to start. (im referring to the cha headers,not cpu/cpu opt. headers)
> 
> Im thinkin these might be a good alternative to my gentle typhoon high speed PWM fans (also 3000 rpms) but have almost twice the input power/current


Do you happen to have a meter? Maybe you could check the voltage on the 3rd pin and see if its fluctuating (assuming you have this board running). Or if you select pwm settings from the board and try a non pwm fan it should just run at full speed if it's pwm.


----------



## sdmf74

I do but im not very proficient with it lol. My experience with it consists of using it to monitor voltage on my K|NGP|N.
I remember setting my cha 3 header to PWM before not realizing I had my one & only eloop 3pin fan hooked up to that header. It ran full speed.
It is possible then the Asus manual is incorrect, it wouldnt be the first time.

if the manual is correct Im curious how it is able to output true PWM then if pin 4 is 5 volt?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Pump has has problems with not starting so it might be faulty.


I was gonna recommend he buys a new MCP50X pump instead cause it runs much cooler than the 35x and if his is having issues all the more incentive to do so. Only costs $69


----------



## gdubc

Since it's switchable in the bios it must be able to work either way. So it is as the manual states for voltage control but switch it to pwm and it uses duty cycle instead. Haha, I like the part about consulting the motherboard's manufacturer when in doubt, ya like that will bring any clarity. You'd probably get a different answer from each rep you talk to...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Since it's switchable in the bios it must be able to work either way. So it is as the manual states for voltage control but switch it to pwm and it uses duty cycle instead. Haha, I like the part about consulting the motherboard's manufacturer when in doubt, ya like that will bring any clarity. You'd probably get a different answer from each rep you talk to...


Besides the plain lies they usually tell us in the manual...Like asus having boards with all fan header been pwm capable which until recently was just a lie and only the cpu fan header (and the accessory cpu fan header) were capable of...


----------



## Cosworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Besides the plain lies they usually tell us in the manual...Like asus having boards with all fan header been pwm capable which until recently was just a lie and only the cpu fan header (and the accessory cpu fan header) were capable of...


lol you're telling me my old ASUS P8P67 Pro B3 rev was supposedly PWM capable, it didn't bother me either way but it would have been nice to know it was true. Anyway I have an update myself my old board burnt out (the asus board) after disagreeing with my backup mouse for some reason and I was forced to buy a new board however I'd completely forgotten to measure the new board before I'd ordered it! Such a simple mistake and I'd made it anyway the board had arrive and after having accurate measurements it would just go when I wasn't sure it'd go with it being an EATX board. Anyway my HAF 922 now has a new lease of life housing an ASROCK Z77 Extreme 11 which is something of a relief I didn't want to buy a new case just yet lol

My setup is coming up is coming up for a fluid change in a couple of months so I wanted to ask if you think I should bother with swapping out the boards onboard fan for the compatible EK water block?


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I do but im not very proficient with it lol. My experience with it consists of using it to monitor voltage on my K|NGP|N.
> I remember setting my *cha 3 header to PWM* before not realizing I had my one & only *eloop 3pin* fan hooked up to that header. It *ran full speed*.
> It is possible then the Asus manual is incorrect, it wouldnt be the first time.
> 
> *if the manual is correct Im curious how it is able to output true PWM then if pin 4 is 5 volt?*


PWM is a pulsed 5V signal, and the fan uses the duty cycle to control the motor's use of the 12V signal on pins 1 and 2. The reason your 3-pin Eloop ran at full speed when set to PWM mode is that the fan power pins are constantly at 12V and the fan uses the duty cycle on pin 4 (pulsed 5V control signal) to control motor speed. What you experienced falls in line with how a 3-pin fan would work on a 4-pin fan header set to PWN


----------



## bond32

I have yet to see a motherboard that has any true pwm headers other than the cpu fan... The Asus board I had (maximus 6 extreme) claimed to have multiple pwm headers yet only the "CPU_Fan" was pwm and the secondary cpu header was just a mirror of the first. The board I have now, Evga z87 classified also said the same yet only one is actually pwm.

Why is it so difficult for manufacturers to get this right? Seems like gigabyte is on the right track but still not where they should be...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I have yet to see a motherboard that has any true pwm headers other than the cpu fan... The Asus board I had (maximus 6 extreme) claimed to have multiple pwm headers yet only the "CPU_Fan" was pwm and the secondary cpu header was just a mirror of the first. The board I have now, Evga z87 classified also said the same yet only one is actually pwm.
> 
> Why is it so difficult for manufacturers to get this right? Seems like gigabyte is on the right track but still not where they should be...


It used to be that way, but several new X99 boards now have all the fan headers PWM capable, for example ASUS' X99 Deluxe and Rampage V Extreme.


----------



## CasP3r




----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> PWM is a pulsed 5V signal, and the fan uses the duty cycle to control the motor's use of the 12V signal on pins 1 and 2. The reason your 3-pin Eloop ran at full speed when set to PWM mode is that the fan power pins are constantly at 12V and the fan uses the duty cycle on pin 4 (pulsed 5V control signal) to control motor speed. What you experienced falls in line with how a 3-pin fan would work on a 4-pin fan header set to PWN


Thanx Mr. strat, so the MVIIF should be capable of having true pwm/dc switching on all cha headers then correct?

hOLY cRAP I just looked up the manual for the MVIIF on Asus.com & it shows the fan headers different than my MVIIF manual does. They must have updated it, its funny my MVF manual had a misprint on their fan header diagram page also.
Here is the online version: (my manual shows +5v on the fourth pin on all the headers except the cpu headers.

It's great they finally offer DC/PWM switching but they went backwards by combining 6 headers into banks of two (so only 3 headers have full control via AISUITEIII)









Thanx Everyone reps+ comin your ways!
So true about how every rep is likely to say something different, sometimes I wonder if companies provide adequate training anymore. Tech support reps at least should have access to such info anyway.

DOPE PICS CASP3r, what camera was used???


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Thanx Mr. strat, so the MVIIF should be capable of having true pwm/dc switching on all cha headers then correct?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> hOLY cRAP I just looked up the manual for the MVIIF on Asus.com & it shows the fan headers different than my MVIIF manual does. They must have updated it, its funny my MVF manual had a misprint on their fan header diagram page also.
> Here is the online version: (my manual shows +5v on the fourth pin on all the headers except the cpu headers.
> 
> It's great they finally offer DC/PWM switching but they went backwards by combining 6 headers into banks of two (so only 3 headers have full control via AISUITEIII)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx Everyone reps+ comin your ways!
> So true about how every rep is likely to say something different, sometimes I wonder if companies provide adequate training anymore. Tech support reps at least should have access to such info anyway.
> 
> DOPE PICS CASP3r, what camera was used???


According to that image and the behaviour you described I would imagine so. I believe the Z97 was the first generation of Asus motherboards to truly support actual PWM control across all fan headers. Asus is notorious for having manuals with incorrect information, I swear sometimes they just copy paste the manual from the prior model and do a cntrl+f to find and change the model name









Yes it is good that they are finally offering what they advertised what, 4 years ago








If you have any questions about your motherboard you can also contact Raja in the Asus support thread, he seems to be knowledgeable and is usually reasonably quick to respond


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> According to that image and the behaviour you described I would imagine so. I believe the Z97 was the first generation of Asus motherboards to truly support actual PWM control across all fan headers. Asus is notorious for having manuals with incorrect information, I swear sometimes they just copy paste the manual from the prior model and do a cntrl+f to find and change the model name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it is good that they are finally offering what they advertised what, 4 years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have any questions about your motherboard you can also contact Raja in the Asus support thread, he seems to be knowledgeable and is usually reasonably quick to respond


This^^

Raja is the best source to the Asus board. Two years ago when Asus advertise all fan header as PWM capable Raja was the only one to tell the correct info (that only cpu_fan was PWM capable along with its mirror).He has been very active after the x99 release on the x99 thread and I glad for that.

EDIT- @CasP3r gorgeous build mate.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> According to that image and the behaviour you described I would imagine so. I believe the Z97 was the first generation of Asus motherboards to truly support actual PWM control across all fan headers. Asus is notorious for having manuals with incorrect information, I swear sometimes they just copy paste the manual from the prior model and do a cntrl+f to find and change the model name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it is good that they are finally offering what they advertised what, 4 years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have any questions about your motherboard you can also contact Raja in the Asus support thread, he seems to be knowledgeable and is usually reasonably quick to respond


Yeah he is supposed to be working on getting a functional driver update for the ROG FRONT BASE to work properly with my motherboard, I wonder if anyone else here w/ the MVIIF & FRONT BASE are experiencing issues?
Thanx Again!


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Yeah he is supposed to be working on getting a functional driver update for the ROG FRONT BASE to work properly with my motherboard, I wonder if anyone else here w/ the MVIIF & FRONT BASE are experiencing issues?
> Thanx Again!


Hi,

You can go over to this forum which discusses' issues with Front base

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/170274-asus-rog-front-base/


----------



## Cosworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*


Stunning looking machine one question though is your tubing rigid plexi?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRoddazzz*
> 
> thought id upload my watercooling rig, see what you guys think of it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking very nice. Good work. Keep that rear wire management pic to yourself though. lol









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean looking build.


----------



## derickwm

NZXT rocks









Hmmmmmmmmmm


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> NZXT rocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmmmm


I'm just so jealous...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick and annoying question, should I flush all my parts out separately or build it and flush it? I cleaned all the parts after I pulled it apart but they've been sitting with no plugs for a couple of weeks

Also how do I go about cleaning a killcoil, just stick it in some boiling distilled for a while?

Thanks


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick and annoying question, should I flush all my parts out separately or build it and flush it? I cleaned all the parts after I pulled it apart but they've been sitting with no plugs for a couple of weeks
> 
> Also how do I go about cleaning a killcoil, just stick it in some boiling distilled for a while?
> 
> Thanks


If its all torn down right now then I would flush each part individually. This way if one part has something in it like flux/rust/plasticizers then that won't be transferred to any of the other components.

I just recently had to do some cleaning of my GPU block due my own stupidity but I cleaned my killcoil as well while I was cleaning. I just stuck it in the boiling distilled after the block and used a pair of tongs to lightly move it around in the water. Then I just let it cool in some room temperature distilled.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> If its all torn down right now then I would flush each part individually. This way if one part has something in it like flux/rust/plasticizers then that won't be transferred to any of the other components.
> 
> I just recently had to do some cleaning of my GPU block due my own stupidity but I cleaned my killcoil as well while I was cleaning. I just stuck it in the boiling distilled after the block and used a pair of tongs to lightly move it around in the water. Then I just let it cool in some room temperature distilled.


Cool thanks









I'm never sure how to clean this stuff


----------



## Johnny Utah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Cool thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm never sure how to clean this stuff


It's a billion times easier to flush individual components than a fully assembled loop. I learned this lesson the hard way.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> It's a billion times easier to flush individual components than a fully assembled loop. I learned this lesson the hard way.


Yeah I figured but I'm lazy









Do you guys let it all dry or once its flushed you stick it back in?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I figured but I'm lazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys let it all dry or once its flushed you stick it back in?


In my limited experience it could take days for the inside of a radiator to completely dry. I wouldn't bother flushing them until you are pretty much ready to put everything back together because leaving them to dry might actually do more harm than good. Stagnant water=bad.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> In my limited experience it could take days for the inside of a radiator to completely dry. I wouldn't bother flushing them until you are pretty much ready to put everything back together because leaving them to dry might actually do more harm than good. Stagnant water=bad.


Ah ok, thanks

If it ever cools down enough here I may actually get to put my rig back together







damn QLD is to hot


----------



## VSG

Swiftech's made available a single 140mm rad/res/pump combo now: http://www.swiftech.com/MCR140-X.aspx



Between this, the H220-X/H240-X and the Corsair HG10/NZXT G10 implementations, there really isn't much of an excuse left for people to not watercool anymore.


----------



## jon666

Does this mean we will get another review from you? Would probably remove the rest of the excuse on not watercooling. I'm already looking for stuff for my mobo, even though it probably doesn't offer much benefit. More then likely I will add another rad and keep using my tablefan for mobo.

Is there any benefit adding another rad to two 3x120mm rads with an ivy i7 at 4.7ghz and 2 7870's?

One of these days I am going to find myself a hobby that doesn't cost any money.


----------



## VSG

I am not sure this needs a review personally. I will be making one for the H220-X (mostly finished) and this thing is just a part of it (single 140mm vs dual 120mm rad) without the CPU block, tubing, fittings, coolant and the labor spent in filling/bleeding.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Is there any benefit adding another rad to two 3x120mm rads with an ivy i7 at 4.7ghz and 2 7870's?


slower spinning fans or a couple/few degrees lower water-ambient delta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> One of these days I am going to find myself a hobby that doesn't cost any money.


lol. good luck with that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Pumps specs says that nominal power is 18w, he has it running at full speed.
> Everything else is checked so pump is the only choice. He has the pump mounted to xspc bay res that is designed for that pump, and even the reservoir heats up.
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't recommend running a ddc at full speed. They have so much pressure its pretty much pointless. Turn it down a little. The noise will be much more bearable too. The heatsink on mine does get warm to the touch. But it no longer gets hot.
> 
> Like i said. A DDC is not going to heat up your loop. Are you sure your pump isn't faulty?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Pump has has problems with not starting so it might be faulty.
Click to expand...

If said DDC has been sleeved, I would check the pin out to make sure that they're fully seated in the connector. I've sleeved both my DDCs' and that is a very real possibility. I know cause I have a pin that got a little borked and it occasionally slides out of the connector when I remove it from my Sunbeam fan controller, which I keep one DDC in reserve/boost mode for JIC system reliability.









I need to re-pin it but I always make certain that it's fully connected before powering my system up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Red1776

I cannot find the correct settings that will capture the LED's as they actually look , but here is the idea.

LED panel and Custom LED embedded pump facades.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech's made available a single 140mm rad/res/pump combo now: http://www.swiftech.com/MCR140-X.aspx
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between this, the H220-X/H240-X and the Corsair HG10/NZXT G10 implementations, there really isn't much of an excuse left for people to not watercool anymore.


I wanna see this in actual AIO form before I think about getting it for my Bro's system. He likes the idea of WC'ing but not sure he wants to go full on custom due to maintenance etc. since he works FT.









The cost of the unit alone isn't bad but then there is the cost of the block as well as the other things that come with their AIO units that can be had from PPCs', Frozen and other retailers for less than what you'd have to pay to build it purchasing from them directly.

Once I get him one I'm considering Hardlining it for him so he can have a cool custom AIO. Complete with DP/FP.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I cannot find the correct settings that will capture the LED's as they actually look , but here is the idea.
> 
> LED panel and Custom LED embedded pump facades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude,you have posted these pics in this thread like 8 times already.......

You got new ones to show?


----------



## charliebrown

Is this corrosion or just staining got it from a guy on eBay I've read that brasso can polish it up good what are your thoughts


----------



## iRoddazzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking very nice. Good work. Keep that rear wire management pic to yourself though. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very clean looking build.


the rear pic was when i was drip testing with my other PSU connected its a lot neater in the back now, but i was showing the pipe work not the messy cables


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Is this corrosion or just staining got it from a guy on eBay I've read that brasso can polish it up good what are your thoughts


Its pretty much impossible to tell from pictures, especially from that far away, but it *might* be copper sulphate staining. Just the way it is concentrated and on all the surfaces, not just the nickel base, makes it seem like that to me. Hot soapy water then metal polish.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> 
> Is this corrosion or just staining got it from a guy on eBay I've read that brasso can polish it up good what are your thoughts




looks like the nickel plating has come off you could get it re-plated but it would likely be near the same price as a new block I would either live with it or vinyl the block's acrylic cover to hide it


----------



## charliebrown

OK but its still good to used though right got this and a 770 for $170 couldn't pass it up


----------



## charliebrown

How do you vinyl cover it


----------



## charliebrown

No worries I'm using red coolant anyway won't be seen I was just worried the block was bad figured I would ask here you guys have all the knowledge on this stuff


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> How do you vinyl cover it


http://www.overclock.net/t/922583/guide-to-carbon-fiber-wrap-gallery/0_20

I have never done it


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Need some help from you guys, I've been filling my loop for the last hour and its hardly taken water

(mock setup pic but you get the idea)


I know its not the easiest loop to fill but i didnt have this problem last time (it was a pita to fill but within 40 mins it was done). At the moment the pump sucks like its not getting water which it clearly is or it sucks some water in then has a little cyclone thing which sucks air







, I've picked the case up and shaken it pretty violently and it still doesnt take more then 1cm of water, the water is getting to the top rad but so far I dont think any has made it to the front one

Any ideas? I dont really wanna pull it all apart again or mess around with the tube lay out

I was hoping to have this filled quick then leave it bleed overnight


----------



## iRoddazzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Need some help from you guys, I've been filling my loop for the last hour and its hardly taken water
> 
> (mock setup pic but you get the idea)
> 
> 
> I know its not the easiest loop to fill but i didnt have this problem last time (it was a pita to fill but within 40 mins it was done). At the moment the pump sucks like its not getting water which it clearly is or it sucks some water in then has a little cyclone thing which sucks air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I've picked the case up and shaken it pretty violently and it still doesnt take more then 1cm of water, the water is getting to the top rad but so far I dont think any has made it to the front one
> 
> Any ideas? I dont really wanna pull it all apart again or mess around with the tube lay out
> 
> I was hoping to have this filled quick then leave it bleed overnight


it took me at least 3 hours to fill mine, i was turning my case upside down, tilting it in every direction, that's the only way of getting the system to fill by moving the air around till it gets to the res.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Need some help from you guys, I've been filling my loop for the last hour and its hardly taken water
> 
> (mock setup pic but you get the idea)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not the easiest loop to fill but i didnt have this problem last time (it was a pita to fill but within 40 mins it was done). At the moment the pump sucks like its not getting water which it clearly is or it sucks some water in then has a little cyclone thing which sucks air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I've picked the case up and shaken it pretty violently and it still doesnt take more then 1cm of water, the water is getting to the top rad but so far I dont think any has made it to the front one
> 
> Any ideas? I dont really wanna pull it all apart again or mess around with the tube lay out
> 
> I was hoping to have this filled quick then leave it bleed overnight


The pump has to push the liquid through the rads that are all above it, this can take a while due to the air that is trapped in the system. After adding more water and letting it circulate I would vent the system so that the trapped air can escape. Obviously only do that from a place that the liquid won't drain from.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Need some help from you guys, I've been filling my loop for the last hour and its hardly taken water
> 
> (mock setup pic but you get the idea)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not the easiest loop to fill but i didnt have this problem last time (it was a pita to fill but within 40 mins it was done). At the moment the pump sucks like its not getting water which it clearly is or it sucks some water in then has a little cyclone thing which sucks air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I've picked the case up and shaken it pretty violently and it still doesnt take more then 1cm of water, the water is getting to the top rad but so far I dont think any has made it to the front one
> 
> Any ideas? I dont really wanna pull it all apart again or mess around with the tube lay out
> 
> I was hoping to have this filled quick then leave it bleed overnight


Where are you trying to fill it from, is there a port on the res cap you can attach a short length of tubing to fill thru?

If so, do that, and with a lot of towel in hand, loosen the outlet fitting on the rear rad that goes back to the res so that air can vent out there.

Now fill the res thru the fill tube bumping the pump each time it gets nearly full.

Eventually, you'll get water gushing out where you loosened the fitting, and you can tighten it back up.

You'll still have to rock and roll the case a good bit, that top rad is going to be a real bear to get all the air our out of.

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dude,you have posted these pics in this thread like 8 times already.......
> 
> You got new ones to show?


lmao


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> EDIT- @CasP3r gorgeous build mate.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Very clean looking build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cosworth*
> 
> Stunning looking machine one question though is your tubing rigid plexi?


Thank you everyone.







Yes, that is rigid acrylic tubing.


----------



## charliebrown

Cleaned it as much as I could the guy I bought it from said he only used dye+coil+distilled

Am I good to use this


----------



## zoson

Swiftech has killed the unisink off.

http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2746&sid=65573aae4837411f93072d156b25d9e8
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryan*
> At this point in time we have pretty much moved away from manufacturing those since they were never in very high demand. I'm sorry about that and I hope this answers your question.


Really not happy about having bought MCW82's under the premise that I'd be able to get unisinks in the future and my cooling would be able to follow my GPU upgrades.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> Cleaned it as much as I could the guy I bought it from said he only used dye+coil+distilled
> 
> Am I good to use this


*Silver killcoils CAUSE this.*

Silver is very high on the galvanic index.
He didn't use a corrosion inhibitor, so it resulted in the silver coil causing galvanic corrosion and the nickel being stripped.

Remember gents. If you're using dissimilar metals you MUST use a corrosion inhibitor.


----------



## charliebrown

so can i still used this or am i at a lost in my system now is mayhems coolant i bought this and another gpu for sli


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> so can i still used this or am i at a lost in my system now is mayhems coolant i bought this and another gpu for sli


The block would need to be replated. You're better off getting a new/used one.


----------



## charliebrown

dam got this and a gtx 770 for $170 i knew it was to good to be true


----------



## morencyam

Or you could just strip the rest of the nickel off and just have a bare copper block. It won't affect performance at all


----------



## charliebrown

how can i do that like with a sand blaster or something


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Or you could just strip the rest of the nickel off and just have a bare copper block. It won't affect performance at all


Awesome idea. Plus he could re-plate them if he really wanted to.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> how can i do that like with a sand blaster or something


You'd probably use an alkaline based stripper product.


----------



## morencyam

yup, We've used hydrolysis at work to strip rust and other coatings off some metal parts. Works pretty well


----------



## zoson

That block is still usable as long as there's no corrosion under the o-rings themselves.
Make sure you use something with a corrosion inhibitor to prevent further problems.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Awesome idea. Plus he could re-plate them if he really wanted to.
> 
> 
> 
> You'd probably use an alkaline based stripper product.


Thank you for sharing this. neat. +rep


----------



## charliebrown

im still going to use mayhems pastel red


----------



## charliebrown

bro im doing this to the block thanks for sharing


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thank you for sharing this. neat. +rep


Thanks for the rep! I've been wanting to try this myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> bro im doing this to the block thanks for sharing


Let us know how it goes!


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> im still going to use mayhems pastel red


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> bro im doing this to the block thanks for sharing


Please edit your previous post instead of double posting.

(Or else B-Neg will unleash the wrath of Maggoo)









As for the block, it is still usable as long as you use a corrosion inhibitor. Let us know how the re-plating turns out if you attempt it!


----------



## natsu2014

Anybody knows what happened to MetallicAcid's corsair build? Can't find it anymore


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> Cleaned it as much as I could the guy I bought it from said he only used dye+coil+distilled
> 
> Am I good to use this
> 
> 
> 
> *Silver killcoils CAUSE this.*
> 
> Silver is very high on the galvanic index.
> He didn't use a corrosion inhibitor, so it resulted in the silver coil causing galvanic corrosion and the nickel being stripped.
> 
> Remember gents. If you're using dissimilar metals you MUST use a corrosion inhibitor.
Click to expand...

Its not the nickel being stripped,its the copper....and that galvanic scale so often quoted from Google is for saltwater,not distilled......

As for inhibitor..never used one and probably never will.


----------



## charliebrown

Sorry for double post my other block is fine with mayhems so like you said if the inhibitor will be in there I'm fine to use as is now I just need to clean this dirty plexi any ideas


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Anybody knows what happened to MetallicAcid's corsair build? Can't find it anymore


Saw on Facebook that ocn pulled it because of the watermarks on his photos they considered advertising for his business.


----------



## VSG

Isn't the whole sponsored build fee meant as an advertising fee anyway?


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not the nickel being stripped,its the copper....and that galvanic scale so often quoted from Google is for saltwater,not distilled......
> 
> As for inhibitor..never used one and probably never will.


*This is just wrong.*

Nickel has a +0.22 Electric potential in volts while Silver is -0.8.
This potential difference GREATER than copper to silver (copper is -0.345, so 0.565 difference vs >1 difference).
I.E. All the nickel will strip first, THEN the copper. For all intents and purposes the nickel is protecting the copper until all the nickel has been stripped.

The rate of corrosion is determined by the electrolyte and the *difference* in nobility.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Anybody knows what happened to MetallicAcid's corsair build? Can't find it anymore
> 
> 
> 
> Saw on Facebook that ocn pulled it because of the watermarks on his photos they considered *advertising for his business.*
Click to expand...

Which is why you have to be careful how you watermark pics.

That said,there are some properly anal new mod team members recently........

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not the nickel being stripped,its the copper....and that galvanic scale so often quoted from Google is for saltwater,not distilled......
> 
> As for inhibitor..never used one and probably never will.
> 
> 
> 
> *This is just wrong.*
> 
> Nickel has a +0.22 Electric potential in volts while Silver is -0.8.
> This potential difference GREATER than copper to silver (copper is -0.345, so 0.565 difference vs >1 difference).
> I.E. All the nickel will strip first, THEN the copper. For all intents and purposes the nickel is protecting the copper until all the nickel has been stripped.
> 
> The rate of corrosion is determined by the electrolyte and the *difference* in nobility.
Click to expand...

The electrolyte in the chart you are quoting from is for _saltwater_.

Nickel on all reported block fails has flaked off,the underlying copper substrate has corroded away leaving the nickel hanging

The cathode to anode area ratio has a strong effect on the intensity of galvanic corrosion. This is illustrated by the following equation: Where C t is the total corrosion resulting from galvanic coupling (CD + C g), C n is the corrosion of the anode which would normally occur if it was not coupled to the cathode, and A c and A a are the areas of the cathode and anode. Thus, as the ratio of the cathode and anode areas increases, corrosion also increases. An example of this effect is the use of steel rivets to join copper plates. With this arrangement, the current per unit area flowing to the copper will be low, causing very little cathodic polarization. Thus the potential difference of the couple will stay close to its open circuit values. At the same time the current flow to the small area of steel will be high and its corrosion will be severe. On the other hand, if copper rivets are used to join steel plates, the current per unit area on the copper cathodes will be high causing a large amount of polarization and greatly reducing the potential difference and overall current flow. Also, the current will be spread over a large area of steel greatly reducing its galvanic corrosion.

There is more to look at rather than just a chart that is not even using the same electrolyte.....


----------



## X-Nine

Never had issue with silver kill coils with ptnuke.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> *This is just wrong.*


That's not the way to speak to someone who obviously know more about this than you do..
Quote:


> Nickel has a +0.22 Electric potential in volts while Silver is -0.8.
> This potential difference GREATER than copper to silver (copper is -0.345, so 0.565 difference vs >1 difference).
> I.E. All the nickel will strip first, THEN the copper. For all intents and purposes the nickel is protecting the copper until all the nickel has been stripped.
> 
> The rate of corrosion is determined by the electrolyte and the *difference* in nobility.


Link for this? Im fairly sure that Nickel is closer to Silver than Copper is.. not a lot, but still closer..

Im running distilled + coil + a few drops of mayhem's blood red. in a copper / brass loop.. no corrosion inhibitors and i never had any corrosion.
But then again.. I have no Nickel, and also no expert on this subject.. just seams highly unlikely what you are saying..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Never had issue with silver kill coils with ptnuke.


What makes me laugh is that people worry about nickel when the solder holding your rads together is much higher up the anodic scale.......

For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments fall into this category. Typically there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For example; gold - silver would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable.
For normal environments, such as storage in warehouses or non-temperature and humidity controlled environments. Typically there should not be more than 0.25 V difference in the "Anodic Index".
For controlled environments, such that are temperature and humidity controlled, 0.50 V can be tolerated. Caution should be maintained when deciding for this application as humidity and temperature do vary from regions.

Anodic Index
Metallurgy Index (Volt)
Gold, solid and plated & Gold-platinum alloy 0.00
Rhodium plated on silver-plated copper 0.05
Silver, solid or plated; monel metal & High nickel-copper alloys 0.15
Nickel, solid or plated, titanium and alloys & Monel 0.30
Copper, solid or plated; low brasses or bronzes; silver solder & German silvery high copper-nickel alloys; nickel-chromium alloys 0.35
Brass and bronzes 0.40
High brasses and bronzes 0.45
18% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels 0.50
Chromium plated; tin plated; 12% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels 0.60
Tin-plate; tin-lead solder 0.65
Lead, solid or plated; high lead alloys 0.70
Aluminum, wrought alloys of the 2000 Series 0.75
Iron, wrought, gray or malleable, plain carbon and low alloy steels 0.85
Aluminum, wrought alloys other than 2000 Series aluminum, cast alloys of the silicon type 0.90
Aluminum, cast alloys other than silicon type, cadmium, plated and chromate 0.95
Hot-dip-zinc plate; galvanized steel 1.20
Zinc, wrought; zinc-base die-casting alloys; zinc plated 1.25
Magnesium & magnesium-base alloys, cast or wrought 1.75
Beryllium 1.85

But EK made Gold plated blocks and nothing exploded.......


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Anybody knows what happened to MetallicAcid's corsair build? Can't find it anymore
> 
> 
> 
> Saw on Facebook that ocn pulled it because of the watermarks on his photos they considered *advertising for his business.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Which is why you have to be careful how you watermark pics.
> 
> That said,there are some properly anal new mod team
Click to expand...

Makes me wonder why his log was deleted while snefs is still there and he also included watermark. Snefs computer design vs MetallicAcid's computer design/customs
This is bs


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Makes me wonder why his log was deleted while snefs is still there and he also included watermark. Snefs computer design vs *MetallicAcid's* computer design/customs
> This is bs


Metallic Acid?
You dont want that in your loop.. THAT would start up some serious corrosion.. regardless of what metals is used.. hehe


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Metallic Acid?
> You dont want that in your loop.. THAT would start up some serious corrosion.. regardless of what metals is used.. hehe


Roflcopter


----------



## charliebrown

Sorry to stir the pot guys I was just worried about running the block with how it is didn't want to start anything sorry


----------



## pc-illiterate

Don't apologize Charlie. Knowledge was shared today and people learned things.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Don't apologize Charlie. Knowledge was shared today and people learned things.


Well said.


----------



## charliebrown

Found out alot you right i figured what better place to ask than here thanks guys i thought i was dead in the water was bout to scrap block now im good


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Sorry to stir the pot guys I was just worried about running the block with how it is didn't want to start anything sorry


Dont worry,you didnt,corrosion is a sensitive subject.

Personally I would look closer at that SS plate as this is not the first time this damage has been seen.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> That's not the way to speak to someone who obviously know more about this than you do..
> Link for this? Im fairly sure that Nickel is closer to Silver than Copper is.. not a lot, but still closer..
> 
> Im running distilled + coil + a few drops of mayhem's blood red. in a copper / brass loop.. no corrosion inhibitors and i never had any corrosion.
> But then again.. I have no Nickel, and also no expert on this subject.. just seams highly unlikely what you are saying..


I too run a Kill coil/Distilled/Mayhems Red and Blue Dyes and have had no issues. but I also check my loop's pH levels every 2 weeks to see if they've changed from their neutral state, also I have a Black Ice GT Rad and a Swiftech Rad of which I flushed for a duration of 4-8hrs w/ Distilled and a inline water filter (GE) (Prior to installing in my loop). I've heard too many horror stories of running Kill Coils w/ Nickel plated blocks to where I just maintain a single style of metal in my loop (Copper/Brass) to simplify things.

@B NEGATIVE I thought the big no no in loops is having too many variants of metals which cause a heightened chance of corrosion w/ or w/out inhibitors (other than I know you always need to run an inhibitor no matter the case, whether it's in the pre-mix or added to distilled)


----------



## charliebrown

Lol so..... Im good to run right im doing my loop now


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What makes me laugh is that people worry about nickel when the solder holding your rads together is much higher up the anodic scale.......
> 
> For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments fall into this category. Typically there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For example; gold - silver would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable.
> For normal environments, such as storage in warehouses or non-temperature and humidity controlled environments. Typically there should not be more than 0.25 V difference in the "Anodic Index".
> For controlled environments, such that are temperature and humidity controlled, 0.50 V can be tolerated. Caution should be maintained when deciding for this application as humidity and temperature do vary from regions.
> 
> Anodic Index
> Metallurgy Index (Volt)
> Gold, solid and plated & Gold-platinum alloy 0.00
> Rhodium plated on silver-plated copper 0.05
> Silver, solid or plated; monel metal & High nickel-copper alloys 0.15
> Nickel, solid or plated, titanium and alloys & Monel 0.30
> Copper, solid or plated; low brasses or bronzes; silver solder & German silvery high copper-nickel alloys; nickel-chromium alloys 0.35
> Brass and bronzes 0.40
> High brasses and bronzes 0.45
> 18% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels 0.50
> Chromium plated; tin plated; 12% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels 0.60
> Tin-plate; tin-lead solder 0.65
> Lead, solid or plated; high lead alloys 0.70
> Aluminum, wrought alloys of the 2000 Series 0.75
> Iron, wrought, gray or malleable, plain carbon and low alloy steels 0.85
> Aluminum, wrought alloys other than 2000 Series aluminum, cast alloys of the silicon type 0.90
> Aluminum, cast alloys other than silicon type, cadmium, plated and chromate 0.95
> Hot-dip-zinc plate; galvanized steel 1.20
> Zinc, wrought; zinc-base die-casting alloys; zinc plated 1.25
> Magnesium & magnesium-base alloys, cast or wrought 1.75
> Beryllium 1.85
> 
> But EK made Gold plated blocks and nothing exploded.......


My issue with this is that regardless of the care you take, no matter how hard you try, simply putting the water into your loop is going to ionize it. That destroys the entire argument of using the adonic index because the electrolyte is no longer just pure distilled water.
In the real world it's better to assume low salinity and prepare for it than it is to have something like this happen. My information is actually from Martin. He expressed this EXACT sentiment.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

Regardless of the mechanism we think is responsible, we do both agree upon the cause. Being prepared is far better than being sorry. That's why I'll never use a killcoil, and I'll always use a coolant with a corrosion inhibitor.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRoddazzz*
> 
> it took me at least 3 hours to fill mine, i was turning my case upside down, tilting it in every direction, that's the only way of getting the system to fill by moving the air around till it gets to the res.










3 hours? thats annoying, I was at it for 2 hours before I gave up and went to be
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The pump has to push the liquid through the rads that are all above it, this can take a while due to the air that is trapped in the system. After adding more water and letting it circulate I would vent the system so that the trapped air can escape. Obviously only do that from a place that the liquid won't drain from.


Yeah I know, just a pita to get the air out!. The only place I have that water cant come from is the top of the res where I'm filling it lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Where are you trying to fill it from, is there a port on the res cap you can attach a short length of tubing to fill thru?
> 
> If so, do that, and with a lot of towel in hand, loosen the outlet fitting on the rear rad that goes back to the res so that air can vent out there.
> 
> Now fill the res thru the fill tube bumping the pump each time it gets nearly full.
> 
> Eventually, you'll get water gushing out where you loosened the fitting, and you can tighten it back up.
> 
> You'll still have to rock and roll the case a good bit, that top rad is going to be a real bear to get all the air our out of.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah top of the res is my fill point

Hmm thanks I'll try that and see how well it goes

I also remembered when I filled my loop before I had to open my drain line to let heaps of air out (kinda forgot about this







) coz it was causing and air lock in my pump


----------



## jon666

After reading the above posts I am kinda wondering if I filled my loop incorrectly. I bought the rad/res/pump combo Swiftech has, and cycled power for about a second. I would fill up the rad/res, give it some juice for a second, then fill it up again. I don't see how this could damage the pump, are you supposed to fill the entire loop up before running the pump?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> After reading the above posts I am kinda wondering if I filled my loop incorrectly. I bought the rad/res/pump combo Swiftech has, and cycled power for about a second. I would fill up the rad/res, give it some juice for a second, then fill it up again. I don't see how this could damage the pump, are you supposed to fill the entire loop up before running the pump?


Sounds about right, its quite difficult to full the entire loop before you fire up the pump.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> After reading the above posts I am kinda wondering if I filled my loop incorrectly. I bought the rad/res/pump combo Swiftech has, and cycled power for about a second. I would fill up the rad/res, give it some juice for a second, then fill it up again. I don't see how this could damage the pump, are you supposed to fill the entire loop up before running the pump?


You'll cycle the pump off and on until the loop has been filled, then once filled leave the pump on to bleed the loop of air


----------



## Nomadskid

Hey guys, I'm planning my next project and wanted to know if the cooling I have is too much or perfectly okay. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/NJgN23


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> After reading the above posts I am kinda wondering if I filled my loop incorrectly. I bought the rad/res/pump combo Swiftech has, and cycled power for about a second. I would fill up the rad/res, give it some juice for a second, then fill it up again. I don't see how this could damage the pump, are you supposed to fill the entire loop up before running the pump?
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds about right, its quite difficult to full the entire loop before you fire up the pump.
Click to expand...

Not so difficult if you design your loop with the ability to fill it completely in mind.

If you have an top-mounted rad that has extra ports like many Alphacool's do the top-facing ports on the top rad can be used as fill ports to easily fill up an entire loop. That's what I've been doing on the last couple loops I put together. I keep both top-facing ports on the top rad open, one to use to fill and the other to let air escape, and I'll only crack open the reservoir's fill port to allow air to escape from it also as it fills from the bottom as I fill the loop through the top rad's port. I'll watch the loop fill up and close the reservoir's fill port once the res gets full and then continue filling up the loop until the top rad is full. Doing it this way only takes a few minutes to fill and almost no bleeding. Certainly no cycling of the pump on/off. I'll just start up the pump and let it run, usually for a day or so before I'll need to top off the res from some of the pockets of air it managed to trap.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> After reading the above posts I am kinda wondering if I filled my loop incorrectly. I bought the rad/res/pump combo Swiftech has, and cycled power for about a second. I would fill up the rad/res, give it some juice for a second, then fill it up again. I don't see how this could damage the pump, are you supposed to fill the entire loop up before running the pump?


As long as there's fluid to your pump, what you're doing is fine. There's no need to worry about it as the pumps we use typically work just fine as long as it has fluid to keep the impellar and other parts lubricated.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So tried loosening off one of the fittings but that wasnt gonna happen (it would of taken the one holding the internal part of the rad to the external) if I just leave it running for a few hours will that force water through or is it just pointless?

Thanks









Ready to throw this thing out the window


----------



## jon666

Whew, thought maybe I missed something when researching. I had a few offers for help when I started to buy parts, but once I did that I was like "meh, this will be easy enough." My only goal was performance, and so far I am content. I might still try and watercool my mobo in an attempt to improve RAM overclocks but I doubt that will offer much of an improvement over my table fan. I guess I better ask my next question before it becomes an issue. Does plasticizer impact performance? I went with some Home Depot tubing and it clouded up pretty fast. My system stays on 24/7.


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ready to throw this thing out the window


Well don't do that


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Well don't do that


But it would be so much easier









Think I'm gonna run it for a few hours and see what happens, backs to sore to be moving it around atm

If I was to flip my front rad up the other way would it be easier to fill and bleed next time?


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> But it would be so much easier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'm gonna run it for a few hours and see what happens, backs to sore to be moving it around atm
> 
> If I was to flip my front rad up the other way would it be easier to fill and bleed next time?


My first loop was hell, It took me two days to get right, with a lot of blood, sweat, and cursing. I feel your pain. However I can't offer much help with the bleeding ( of the loop lol ) and filing, my loop is rather odd.


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> how can i do that like with a sand blaster or something


I have had good experience with (soda Blasting) yup that's baking soda. and its cheap and easy, it's not hard to make, and it does not harm the underlying metal. with that said I don't know if it will remove the remaining nickel plating. I use this in my garage to restore old hard to find auto parts such as throttle body's and valves/ lifters.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> My first loop was hell, It took me two days to get right, with a lot of blood, sweat, and cursing. I feel your pain. However I can't offer much help with the bleeding ( of the loop lol ) and filing, my loop is rather odd.


This is a rebuild of my first loop to add my GPU and new tube, first loop was setup the exact same way (just not as pretty) and it wasnt anywhere near this hard to fill and bleed, I dont think my front rad even has water yet


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Whew, thought maybe I missed something when researching. I had a few offers for help when I started to buy parts, but once I did that I was like "meh, this will be easy enough." My only goal was performance, and so far I am content. I might still try and watercool my mobo in an attempt to improve RAM overclocks but I doubt that will offer much of an improvement over my table fan. I guess I better ask my next question before it becomes an issue. Does plasticizer impact performance? I went with some Home Depot tubing and it clouded up pretty fast. My system stays on 24/7.


it can end up gunking up on the CPU block and in other areas, so yes last i checked it can effect performance. Always worth it to go w/ a quality tubing even if it costs alot more than the HD cheapo 10'


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Whew, thought maybe I missed something when researching. I had a few offers for help when I started to buy parts, but once I did that I was like "meh, this will be easy enough." My only goal was performance, and so far I am content. I might still try and watercool my mobo in an attempt to improve RAM overclocks but I doubt that will offer much of an improvement over my table fan. I guess I better ask my next question before it becomes an issue. Does plasticizer impact performance? I went with some Home Depot tubing and it clouded up pretty fast. My system stays on 24/7.


high 5 on the home depot tubing!

Cheap, and as far as I can tell, no better or worse than the stuff that came in my EK kit. I have replaced it twice, both times I had used a dye bomb. Now that I am on nothing but distilled, the clouding seems to be much less progressive. No buildup in the blocks either after ~1.5 years


----------



## jon666

Well, those were two conflicting and informative responses. I run stress tests at least twice a week trying to find that sweet spot on all of my components, I guess I will have to make a decision when performance tanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Kay gais, since my prefferred Phobya 200m is seemingly in permaouttastock, what do you think of my choice to run three HWLabs Black Ice Stealth 360s'?

I've already got one which I will run up on top and am thinking of getting 2 more to run in series with fan/shroud *intake* across from each other. They'll be approximately 6 inches apart so would that create too much cavitation limiting effectiveness or should that much distance negate the cavitation factor? I wanna know what I'm getting myself into before I start modding my case to accept my current plan of attack.









Fans up for consideration are GTs' or the new Phantek Radiator 120s'.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Whew, thought maybe I missed something when researching. I had a few offers for help when I started to buy parts, but once I did that I was like "meh, this will be easy enough." My only goal was performance, and so far I am content. I might still try and watercool my mobo in an attempt to improve RAM overclocks but I doubt that will offer much of an improvement over my table fan. I guess I better ask my next question before it becomes an issue. Does plasticizer impact performance? I went with some Home Depot tubing and it clouded up pretty fast. My system stays on 24/7.


Yes, Plasticizer can impact performance as it starts coating the internals of your loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Well, those were two conflicting and informative responses. I run stress tests at least twice a week trying to find that sweet spot on all of my components, I guess I will have to make a decision when performance tanks.


I dont think they are conflicting. Plasticizer, absolutely could gunk up your stuff as it gets redeposited around the whole of the loop. However, after running home depot tubing for a year and a half, I have noticed no build-up in the blocks, and the tubes dont seem to be breaking down any faster than the stuff EK ships with their kits. I am not saying "home depot tubing = high price tubing", just that it may be an acceptable substitute if you are on a budget. It doesn't do well with dyes though, and only comes in clear.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Air leaking test thanks to @It diva, @B NEGATIVE and @Unicr0nhunter. Thank you guys and gal for that idea. Already found two leaks before filling the loop with coolant.












details going on chessboard build log soon.

edit- loving this method...no more messy leak tests for me.







Really thank you guys.


----------



## VSG

How do you isolate the leak points this way? Don't get me wrong- totally doing this myself.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you isolate the leak points this way? Don't get me wrong- totally doing this myself.


lot's of soap foam from the kitchen sponge... One point was the cap of the reservoir the other a loose fitting. But when you get to 10 psi you can hear the air escaping...I heard air escaping in the area of the reservoir. Put some foam there and bingo bubbles forming up. Most pressure gauges down here are npt and I got a cheap one first with plastic encasing that didn't seal. I got this one (BSP 1/4) today and a couple of o-rings on it no more leaks from the pressure gauge. The encasing is metal too so the manometer itself don't bend when you try to fasten up


----------



## Wolfsbora

What is the max psi before potentially causing damage? Such as in the rads.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What is the max psi before potentially causing damage? Such as in the rads.


Watercool rads are one of the few I known report bar or psi in specs. They are rated to 5 bar or 72 psi. Alphacool rads are rated to 1.5 bar so around 21 psi. So 10 psi is really way lower that the maximum rated pressure of these rads. I would suppose the other rads are similar but you have to check specs for each rad. I doubt any of our modern rads would have a lower limit below that of Alphacool but to be safe check for each rad the specs.

edit- after been here for around 30 minutes the pressure gauge is in the same position slightly over 10 psi...looking good


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> lot's of soap foam from the kitchen sponge... One point was the cap of the reservoir the other a loose fitting. But when you get to 10 psi you can hear the air escaping...I heard air escaping in the area of the reservoir. Put some foam there and bingo bubbles forming up. Most pressure gauges down here are npt and I got a cheap one first with plastic encasing that didn't seal. I got this one (BSP 1/4) today and a couple of o-rings on it no more leaks from the pressure gauge. The encasing is metal too so the manometer itself don't bend when you try to fasten up


I was going to use a bottle of Snoop from the lab so good to know this is still the easiest way. I use it for testing high airflow/vacuum leaks and wasn't sure if it would be enough for a small leak or not. Thanks, +1


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Air leaking test thanks to @It diva, @B NEGATIVE and @Unicr0nhunter. Thank you guys and gal for that idea. Already found two leaks before filling the loop with coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> details going on chessboard build log soon.
> 
> edit- loving this method...no more messy leak tests for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really thank you guys.


Yeah same way I felt about it after I followed the suggestions from Darlene and B Neg and started air leak testing first. I used to be so uneasy when it came time to start filling the loop worried I was going to flood my mobo or gpus. This gives so much more peace of mind. Like keep saying, it sure beats the ol' putting down paper towels and crossing your fingers. Congrats!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you isolate the leak points this way? Don't get me wrong- totally doing this myself.


I've only had one small leak since I started air leak testing. Turned out it was super easy to find just pumping the loop back up to 9-10psi and using a piece of tube as a stethoscope by holding one end to my ear and the other to each fitting / potential source of a leak. If that didn't work then I was going to try a bit of soapy water swiped around each fitting, but as it turned out I could hear it loud and clear, and actually once I got to looking I could see an o-ring wasn't seated right was all it was.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What is the max psi before potentially causing damage? Such as in the rads.


I'm not sure what the max safe pressure might be - B Neg would probably have a better idea - but in any case there's little to no need to go over 10psi which is more than your loop will ever see filled with liquid in use yet not enough to damage anything. I've been using 9psi as my target for testing purposes and it works very well.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

6 hours now and my loop still isnt full, seems like all the airs caught in the top rad and no matter how much I tilt, shake and throw it around the air wont get out







I've left it running for an hour, turned it off tilted etc then back on but the air wont leave, I cant loosen any of the fittings without flooding my whole case







. I dont understand why I'm having this problem when my last setup was pretty much the same (minus the GPU block and 90° fittings) and I had it filled in 40mins bleed in 12h

Only thing I can really think of is flipping my front rad around so the barbs are on the bottom but I really didnt want to do that, it would mean the tubes would look like crap and I'd have to use a 1 - 1.2m tube from my top rad to my bottom (not that I dont have enough tube but still)

What do you guys think I should do?


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 6 hours now and my loop still isnt full, seems like all the airs caught in the top rad and no matter how much I tilt, shake and throw it around the air wont get out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've left it running for an hour, turned it off tilted etc then back on but the air wont leave, I cant loosen any of the fittings without flooding my whole case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I dont understand why I'm having this problem when my last setup was pretty much the same (minus the GPU block and 90° fittings) and I had it filled in 40mins bleed in 12h
> 
> Only thing I can really think of is flipping my front rad around so the barbs are on the bottom but I really didnt want to do that, it would mean the tubes would look like crap and I'd have to use a 1 - 1.2m tube from my top rad to my bottom (not that I dont have enough tube but still)
> 
> What do you guys think I should do?


How many ports do you have in the top rad? Could you let the top unused port unscrewed to let the air out? without running of course and fill it there instead.. i did that way once.. works like charm..









In case your wonder what i'm talking about.. i have these..


Edit: There's 6 port on them plus one on other end


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 6 hours now and my loop still isnt full, seems like all the airs caught in the top rad and no matter how much I tilt, shake and throw it around the air wont get out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've left it running for an hour, turned it off tilted etc then back on but the air wont leave, I cant loosen any of the fittings without flooding my whole case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I dont understand why I'm having this problem when my last setup was pretty much the same (minus the GPU block and 90° fittings) and I had it filled in 40mins bleed in 12h
> 
> Only thing I can really think of is flipping my front rad around so the barbs are on the bottom but I really didnt want to do that, it would mean the tubes would look like crap and I'd have to use a 1 - 1.2m tube from my top rad to my bottom (not that I dont have enough tube but still)
> 
> What do you guys think I should do?


Have you completely flipped it upside down yet? Make sure it is unplugged when you do this.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> How many ports do you have in the top rad? Could you let the top unused port unscrewed to let the air out? without running of course and fill it there instead.. i did that way once.. works like charm..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case your wonder what i'm talking about.. i have these..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: There's 6 port on them plus one on other end


I got XSPC AX rads so only 2 ports







least they look nice








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Have you completely flipped it upside down yet? Make sure it is unplugged when you do this.


Yeah tried that, I've shaken it around, tilted it, flipped upside down and the airs still in the top rad, I have no idea if any waters in the front, if it is its full


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I got XSPC AX rads so only 2 ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> least they look nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah tried that, I've shaken it around, tilted it, flipped upside down and the airs still in the top rad, I have no idea if any waters in the front, if it is its full


You can try what @mikemykeMB suggested back in May, and that is to use a bicycle pump. I have never attempted it before but *here is the post*. Scroll down to read more of the conversation.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You can try what @mikemykeMB suggested back in May, and that is to use a bicycle pump. I have never attempted it before but *here is the post*. Scroll down to read more of the conversation.










that could be interesting...

I dunno if I'd do it tho, might just leave it run for a few hours untouched with the plug off and see what happens, if that doesnt work then I may flip my front rad (not that I really want to)


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that could be interesting...
> 
> I dunno if I'd do it tho, might just leave it run for a few hours untouched with the plug off and see what happens, if that doesnt work then I may flip my front rad (not that I really want to)


Just seems really odd it was fillable before... if you are bored maybe make us a diagram of your loop? I went back and looked at the mock setup but I'm a little confused by it.


----------



## pc-illiterate

ausjug, you shouldnt have to do anything more than tilt your case around. there is no reason that front rad wont bleed out unless it is air locked, or you have inlet and outlet backwards on your pump or the top rad tube running behind the tray is kinked.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ausjug, you shouldnt have to do anything more than tilt your case around. there is no reason that front rad wont bleed out unless it is air locked, or you have inlet and outlet backwards on your pump or the top rad tube running behind the tray is kinked.


Yah I didn't want to say it, but my immediate suspicion was that there was a line backwards somewhere or something simple.

Mine takes like... 10 min. to fill now that I've figured out opening the ports on the top of my reservoir makes everything flow. I think you might look into swapping out the port top of your res with one that has more openings.

Sorry for gratuitous picture of my rig but I thought it might be illustrative of how well a bay res can work.


----------



## electro2u

bleh double


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Just seems really odd it was fillable before... if you are bored maybe make us a diagram of your loop? I went back and looked at the mock setup but I'm a little confused by it.


Heres my very professional diagram











I made it as simple a loop as I could (or so I thought)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ausjug, you shouldnt have to do anything more than tilt your case around. there is no reason that front rad wont bleed out unless it is air locked, or you have inlet and outlet backwards on your pump or the top rad tube running behind the tray is kinked.


It must be airlocked some how, I just double checked my connections on a spare pump top and I havent mixed the inlets and outlets this time (did that my first loop







), I also checked the tube between the rads and its only slightly kinked, no more then my CPU or GPU one and there fine

I can try (and I stress the word try) to take a pic of where the tubes slightly kinked between the rads, I'm using Norprene which does kink very easy but its pretty easy to unkink and still use (which is what happened with the CPU to GPU and GPU to rad tube)


----------



## electro2u

Thanks! OK, so we don't even really know where the flow is stopping. The 360 may be empty but we're assuming it's air locked. I would think seriously about ITDIVA's suggestion of loosening the fittings there at the 360 with towels in hand. You'll be able to tighten them again even if it starts gushing, but mostly what you'll get is air I suspect. I know it might not be so easy to do with the norprene, though. It depends on if you have the tubing connected straight to comps that are in the rad or if there are extension fittings as well.

When you are filling the reservoir up... and turning on the pump... it just does nothing? Are you filling the reservoir up completely? And then the coolant just sits there?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Thanks! OK, so we don't even really know where the flow is stopping. The 360 may be empty but we're assuming it's air locked. I would think seriously about ITDIVA's suggestion of loosening the fittings there at the 360 with towels in hand. You'll be able to tighten them again even if it starts gushing, but mostly what you'll get is air I suspect. I know it might not be so easy to do with the norprene, though. It depends on if you have the tubing connected straight to comps that are in the rad or if there are extension fittings as well.
> 
> When you are filling the reservoir up... and turning on the pump... it just does nothing? Are you filling the reservoir up completely? And then the coolant just sits there?


I did try ITDIVAs suggestion on the front but couldnt get it undone without taking the fitting that screws into the rad off, I _may_ be able to do it on the GPU fitting, I dont think I'll be able to do it on the other one. I'm using Bitspower clamps on Bitspower 1/2 barbs, I read norprene comes loose with compressions so I didnt wanna risk it

When I fill it, it makes a sucking sound but doesnt take any water, if it does take water its less then 1mm, I've filled it completely and still doesnt take it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Thanks! OK, so we don't even really know where the flow is stopping. The 360 may be empty but we're assuming it's air locked. I would think seriously about ITDIVA's suggestion of loosening the fittings there at the 360 with towels in hand. You'll be able to tighten them again even if it starts gushing, but mostly what you'll get is air I suspect. I know it might not be so easy to do with the norprene, though. It depends on if you have the tubing connected straight to comps that are in the rad or if there are extension fittings as well.
> 
> When you are filling the reservoir up... and turning on the pump... it just does nothing? Are you filling the reservoir up completely? And then the coolant just sits there?
> 
> 
> 
> I did try ITDIVAs suggestion on the front but couldnt get it undone without taking the fitting that screws into the rad off, I _may_ be able to do it on the GPU fitting, I dont think I'll be able to do it on the other one. I'm using Bitspower clamps on Bitspower 1/2 barbs, I read norprene comes loose with compressions so I didnt wanna risk it
> 
> When I fill it, it makes a sucking sound but doesnt take any water, if it does take water its less then 1mm, I've filled it completely and still doesnt take it
Click to expand...

What's your drain line connected to . . . . could you have the drain line on the outlet of the pump . . . try opening the drain and bump (run) the pump

D.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What's your drain line connected to . . . . could you have the drain line on the outlet of the pump . . . try opening the drain and bump (run) the pump
> 
> D.


Drain lines on the inlet, using a T fitting so I can have the drain line and front rad connected, The only outlet I have is the one going from the res to the CPU, I opened the drain line while the pump was on thinking it was an airlock like my last setup and got a bit wet this time


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Drain lines on the inlet, using a T fitting so I can have the drain line and front rad connected, The only outlet I have is the one going from the res to the CPU, I opened the drain line while the pump was on thinking it was an airlock like my last setup and got a bit wet this time


wait wait wait. Do you have ANY port open when you are running the pump? like besides the one you are filling the res with?

Edit: Is the line you are filling the res with full of water? If you have no port for air release, and the fill line is clogged, your entire loop is airlocked?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> wait wait wait. Do you have ANY port open when you are running the pump? like besides the one you are filling the res with?
> 
> Edit: Is the line you are filling the res with full of water? If you have no port for air release, and the fill line is clogged, your entire loop is airlocked?


Dont have any extra ports at all only the top of the res

I'm filling from the top of the res, taking the whole top off the res to fill it the 1/4 hole is to small (using a bit of norprene with a funnel and have no extra fittings to screw it in place)

Everything I'm doing with this loop I did with my last one and didnt have to many problems (getting air from the front rad was a pita but didnt take to long)


----------



## Ironsmack

Are you running soft tubing?

If so, you can try pinching the tubes after the pump for a few seconds to build pressure and that could help get rid of the air bubbles.

I do this throughout the loop while i bleed and it works everytime.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Are you running soft tubing?
> 
> If so, you can try pinching the tubes after the pump for a few seconds to build pressure and that could help get rid of the air bubbles.
> 
> I do this throughout the loop while i bleed and it works everytime.


Yeah Norprenes pretty soft, I might try that

I just tried undoing a fitting on the 360 and again i couldnt get it without pulling the one in the rad its self off









I'm about ready to rip it all apart again and flip my front rad up the other way (really didnt want to tho, massive waste of tube and it'll look crap) or reverse the flow so it goes res > pump > rad > rad > GPU > CPU

I dont understand why its having stupid problems, none of the tubes are kinked, it has plenty of water, I've tilted, shaken and screwed around with it for almost 24h now just to fill the spastic thing









*Edit,* is there anyway to tell if theres a blockage? I just pinched the hose coming from the pump and I could easily feel water flowing but when I pinched the one from CPU to GPU I couldnt really feel anything and then the one from GPU to rad I couldnt feel anything at all...


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah Norprenes pretty soft, I might try that
> 
> I just tried undoing a fitting on the 360 and again i couldnt get it without pulling the one in the rad its self off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about ready to rip it all apart again and flip my front rad up the other way (really didnt want to tho, massive waste of tube and it'll look crap) or reverse the flow so it goes res > pump > rad > rad > GPU > CPU
> 
> I dont understand why its having stupid problems, none of the tubes are kinked, it has plenty of water, I've tilted, shaken and screwed around with it for almost 24h now just to fill the spastic thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit,* is there anyway to tell if theres a blockage? I just pinched the hose coming from the pump and I could easily feel water flowing but when I pinched the one from CPU to GPU I couldnt really feel anything and then the one from GPU to rad I couldnt feel anything at all...


I just wondering if you have a vario pump and set it to low speed.
what are you running your pump off CPU header? then it will run on minimum (sorry if I am stating the obvious)
you could use the GPU plug as a air bleed port but that in itself could cause issues in spillage.

Apart from a foreign object blocking the tube or jamming the impellor I am lost to what else I could suggest.

I don't think radiator orientation will help I have had mine in every position possible and always managed to unlock the air lock but only with the pump on high I did try once with the pump on a low setting to be cautious about running pump dry etc. it was pointless I had to set the pump up on max.


----------



## tikboy

Hi Guys!

This would be my first post. I would like you to meet Claire.



I'm still waiting for some parts to arrive. I'll add some more pics when she's complete.

Thanks for looking!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I just wondering if you have a vario pump and set it to low speed.
> what are you running your pump off CPU header? then it will run on minimum (sorry if I am stating the obvious)
> you could use the GPU plug as a air bleed port but that in itself could cause issues in spillage.
> 
> Apart from a foreign object blocking the tube or jamming the impellor I am lost to what else I could suggest.
> 
> I don't think radiator orientation will help I have had mine in every position possible and always managed to unlock the air lock but only with the pump on high I did try once with the pump on a low setting to be cautious about running pump dry etc. it was pointless I had to set the pump up on max.


My pumps running the molex on setting 3 which I thought would be more then high enough

I could open a GPU plug but I dont really wanna drown my PC









Damn







, maybe I should try and set my pump higher till the airs out then set it back?

Its getting really annoying when I do things like this and they dont work







so close to going back to an aio


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Cheak thread lengths of the fittings going into the GPUs,they could be blocking flow.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tikboy*
> 
> Hi Guys!
> 
> This would be my first post. I would like you to meet Claire.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting for some parts to arrive. I'll add some more pics when she's complete.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Nice clean build, getting compliments here is like pulling teeth.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cheak thread lengths of the fittings going into the GPUs,they could be blocking flow.


I'm pretty sure they arnt blocking the flow, maybe the plugs I'm using

Suppose I should drain it and check?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tikboy*
> 
> Hi Guys!
> 
> This would be my first post. I would like you to meet Claire.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting for some parts to arrive. I'll add some more pics when she's complete.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


I see Claire is already getting in the Christmas spirit. It's still far enough out I'm more 'bah humbug!' than anything else but have to say she does have some nice bends.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> My pumps running the molex on setting 3 which I thought would be more then high enough
> 
> I could open a GPU plug but I dont really wanna drown my PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , maybe I should try and set my pump higher till the airs out then set it back?
> 
> Its getting really annoying when I do things like this and they dont work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so close to going back to an aio


setting on 3 that would be it








the loop when full will flow on 3 but on initial bleeding you won't have the "syphon" effect where the water flowing from the top rad down would in turn help pull the water up to the top radiator
you will probably need to drill a hole in the pump cover so you can adjust the speed without disassembling the pump assembly to change settings after bleeding. (I assume you can't access it)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Pump setting on '3' shouldn't have anything to do with it. Aussie's fighting what sounds like a complete blockage somewhere, air stuck in the pump, or maybe the pump is failing. I've been lurking hoping someone else helps get him on the right track as I'm admittedly not good at long distance backseat bleeding and this so far has me a bit stumped.

That said, I'd probably have already partially drained the loop if I needed to so I could remove both of the fittings going to the top rad to see if I could blow the remaining coolant through the loop in the direction of flow without too much effort. If I couldn't I'd start working backwards disconnecting the gpu first, then the cpu, trying to find where the hang up is.

edit:
@Aussiejuggalo, I apologize if this has already been asked / established. After filling the res, are you leaving its fill port open when trying to bleed? A lot of the time that's necessary at least at first to help keep the pump from becoming airlocked.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> setting on 3 that would be it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the loop when full will flow on 3 but on initial bleeding you won't have the "syphon" effect where the water flowing from the top rad down would in turn help pull the water up to the top radiator
> you will probably need to drill a hole in the pump cover so you can adjust the speed without disassembling the pump assembly to change settings after bleeding. (I assume you can't access it)


3 works last time









I tried to line the setting dial up with one of the holes of the cover, didnt work great tho but I can just get to it I think
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Pump setting on '3' shouldn't have anything to do with it. Aussie's fighting what sounds like a complete blockage somewhere, air stuck in the pump, or maybe the pump is failing. I've been lurking hoping someone else helps get him on the right track as I'm admittedly not good at long distance backseat bleeding and this so far has me a bit stumped.
> 
> That said, I'd probably have already partially drained the loop if I needed to so I could remove both of the fittings going to the top rad to see if I could blow the remaining coolant through the loop in the direction of flow without too much effort. If I couldn't I'd start working backwards disconnecting the gpu first, then the cpu, trying to find where the hang up is.
> 
> edit:
> @Aussiejuggalo, I apologize if this has already been asked / established. After filling the res, are you leaving its fill port open when trying to bleed? A lot of the time that's necessary at least at first to help keep the pump from becoming airlocked.


I hope the pump isnt failing but if it is I'll deal with it (damn things not even a year old yet)

I will drain it completely tomorrow and see whats going on, I think its my CPU block tho, I pinched the tube like I said earlier and the one out of the block has little to no flow (any ideas?)

Yeah filling the res and leaving the fill port off to bleed, even left the port off the last few hours to see if that could help


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> It depends on what the temperature probe is doing for you. In automation we want to know temperature feedback in areas which will work logically. As an example, monitoring temperature of coolant after say the GPU which is predominantly an area of extremes in temperature. In my personal build I use it to control the fan on the 120mm radiator feeding the GPU (hotter coolant = higher fan RPMs). In the CPU I use the onboard thermal feedback to control the system pump speed and the fan speeds of the 240mm radiator feeding the CPU heatsink.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> In my limited experience it could take days for the inside of a radiator to completely dry. I wouldn't bother flushing them until you are pretty much ready to put everything back together because leaving them to dry might actually do more harm than good. Stagnant water=bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah ok, thanks
> 
> If it ever cools down enough here I may actually get to put my rig back together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> damn QLD is to hot


Blow the radiators out as much as possible, lowest temperature possible on the oven..... (bake/dry)


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Air leaking test thanks to @It diva, @B NEGATIVE and @Unicr0nhunter. Thank you guys and gal for that idea. Already found two leaks before filling the loop with coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> details going on chessboard build log soon.
> 
> edit- loving this method...no more messy leak tests for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really thank you guys.


Do you use a kit to test for air leaks? If so where did you get it from?

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> setting on 3 that would be it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the loop when full will flow on 3 but on initial bleeding you won't have the "syphon" effect where the water flowing from the top rad down would in turn help pull the water up to the top radiator
> you will probably need to drill a hole in the pump cover so you can adjust the speed without disassembling the pump assembly to change settings after bleeding. (I assume you can't access it)
> 
> 
> 
> 3 works last time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to line the setting dial up with one of the holes of the cover, didnt work great tho but I can just get to it I think
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Pump setting on '3' shouldn't have anything to do with it. Aussie's fighting what sounds like a complete blockage somewhere, air stuck in the pump, or maybe the pump is failing. I've been lurking hoping someone else helps get him on the right track as I'm admittedly not good at long distance backseat bleeding and this so far has me a bit stumped.
> 
> That said, I'd probably have already partially drained the loop if I needed to so I could remove both of the fittings going to the top rad to see if I could blow the remaining coolant through the loop in the direction of flow without too much effort. If I couldn't I'd start working backwards disconnecting the gpu first, then the cpu, trying to find where the hang up is.
> 
> edit:
> @Aussiejuggalo, I apologize if this has already been asked / established. After filling the res, are you leaving its fill port open when trying to bleed? A lot of the time that's necessary at least at first to help keep the pump from becoming airlocked.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I hope the pump isnt failing but if it is I'll deal with it (damn things not even a year old yet)
> 
> I will drain it completely tomorrow and see whats going on, I think its my CPU block tho, I pinched the tube like I said earlier and the one out of the block has little to no flow (any ideas?)
> 
> Yeah filling the res and leaving the fill port off to bleed, even left the port off the last few hours to see if that could help
Click to expand...

If you're going to drain it, put a T in the outlet of the rear rad with a cap. (where it goes back to the res)

That way you'll always have a vent point at a relatively high point in the loop.

Just loosen the cap, and bump the pump, . . . if no water gets there, there's a blockage, . . . if it starts gushing water, you've bled the air block.

Also go back and look at anything you changed from before . . . .

Most fittings have only 5mm of thread, but some have more.

If you have a block that has limited clearance below a short threaded port, (some CPU blocks) and you use a fitting with long threads, (phobya inline temp sensors come to mind) it'll block all the flow.

That's why Bitspower has o ringed spacers available. Some of their fittings have very short female thread engagements.

Darlene


----------



## Ramstone

Love the Tabasco bottle theme. Now I want Chipotle.

[Note: May be imposing my own hunger-fueled perceptions on this build]


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I recall earlier in the week, that there were some questions regarding using air to leak test.
> 
> Naturally, I was busy at work and without access to any pics at the time, and then it slipped my mind by the time I got home.
> 
> Anyway, I made up a little Rube Goldberg contraption that's worked fine for a long time now, and I just went and got all fancy and made a stand for it so it's a little easier to use.
> 
> I made it from scrap acrylic, and a few items from McMaster Carr and the local Ace hardware or plumbing supply, not sure anymore which it actually was . . . .
> 
> To make one like it, I'll list the McMaster part numbers:
> 
> You'll basically need a pair of rather inexpensive gages, and an inexpensive regulator.
> 
> I chose a reg that only adjusts up to 25 psi max, to make it almost impossible to over pressure your system during a test.
> 
> The gages are 0 to 30 psi range, so you have a nicely spread out view of the increments.
> 
> You'll also need a 1/4"npt ball valve from the hardware or plumbing store, and some quick connects like for small air compressor accessories.
> 
> A 1/8 npt Schrader valve is also handy, though my setup still has the 1/8 npt plug from when I "borrowed" the Schrader for something else.
> 
> You could use a 1/4npt Schrader and not have to have both a 1/8 and 1/4 npt tap.
> 
> Here's the McMaster numbers with approximate prices:
> You'll still need a few nipples and a 90, I think I scrounged most of my small parts from one of these accessory kits:
> 
> http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1336671
> 
> Small gage for the regulator 3846K431 0-30 $12
> Larger gage 3846K312 0-30 $12
> Regulator 6746K32 0-25 $27
> 
> Schrader valve 1/8 NPT 8063K31 $4
> Schrader valve 1/4 NPT 8063K38 $4
> 
> Ball valve 47865K21 $9
> 
> Everything should be pretty self explanatory, but;
> 
> Drill in from one end with a 11.8mm bit for the G1/4 fitting, and from the other end with a 7/16" bit for the 1/4 NPT fitting.
> 
> Drill down from the top with a 7/16" bit for the 1/4 npt gage port
> 
> Drill up from the bottom for your Schrader if you want to use one
> 
> Drill up from the bottom for additional G1/4 ports if you want them.
> 
> Tap drill for 1/4 NPT is 7/16"
> 
> Tap drill for 1/8 NPT is 21/64" or can use 11/32"
> 
> Tap drill for G1/4 is 11.8mm
> 
> I would think if someone stated making these little manifolds for guys who want to have an air tester, they could sell a bunch of them, as it's the hardest part of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Do you use a kit to test for air leaks? If so where did you get it from?
> 
> Thanks


The Schrader valve with 1/4 NPT came from ebay (around 3 bucks). The koolance adapter 1/4 npt female to G 1/4 male came from PPC (3 bucks also). The pressure gauge is a general use rated to 30 psi that I shop local (around 20 bucks). I made sure to get one with metal encasing (more robust) and 1/4 BSP; That way I can use normal g 1/4 o-rings to help prevent any leaks coming from the manometer connection itself. I forgot..._I am using a bike manual pump._ Here are the original posts I based my shop list:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1516278/a-little-advice-needed-leak-cleanup

with link to @B NEGATIVE and @It diva posts (copy above).

On the subject, for those who use this method and have more experience, for how long usually you guys and gals leave the system under pressure to check for leaks? A couple of hours? I am asking because I went to bed at 4 PM and check the gauge again at noon and the pressure drop from 11 PSI to slightly over 10 PSI. I detected a very small leak on the Shcrader valve / koolance adapter connection so I think that is it but would like to have feedback from you folks about how long should we run the test. Once again thank you. This is really convenient and a lot safer.

edit - @Aussiejuggalo I think will help us if you could take some pictures of the connections on your loop. How is the pump/reservoir set up? The outlet is going to the cpu block and the return line? At this point I would have personally take the whole loop apart and test it outside the case to see what is going on.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Air leaking test thanks to @@It diva, @@B NEGATIVE and @@Unicr0nhunter. Thank you guys and gal for that idea. Already found two leaks before filling the loop with coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> details going on chessboard build log soon.
> 
> edit- loving this method...no more messy leak tests for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really thank you guys.
> 
> 
> 
> *Do you use a kit to test for air leaks? If so where did you get it from?*
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

There's no kits available . . . . it's a DIY thing at this stage . . maybe some one will offer one in the future.

The copy above of one of my previous posts described how I made the one I made for myself, which is pretty flexible for testing whole systems or just smaller modules.

It doesn't need to be nearly that much of a production to have a basic, useful setup . . .

Here's an updated, uber simple, parts list for a very basic, totally functional, DIY system with all readily available parts:

The most basic setup will require a minimum number of items and a minimal cost:

1 X 1/4" NPT "Tee"
McMaster P/N 9151K42 about $5

1 X 1/4 NPT Schrader valve
McMaster P/N 8063K38 about $4

1 X Suitable low pressure range, large diameter for easy reading, gage
McMaster P/N 3846K311 about $14

1 X Adapter fitting . . 1/4 NPT male to G1/4 female About $4

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11231/koo-224/Koolance_Threading_Adapter_NPT_14_Male_to_G_14_Female_ADT-N14M-G14F.html?tl=g30c101s744

*Note that this item is mis-identified in the description as G1/4 male to NPT female on the FCPU site, but it is the right one to order*

The same part number is shown here on the Koolance site described correctly as 1/4NPT male to G1/4 female:

http://koolance.com/threading-adapter-npt-1-4-male-to-g-1-4-female

Add a bit of Teflon pipe thread sealing tape from your local hardware store and some barbs and tubing and you're good to go.

So for less than $30 plus some shipping, you can make your own setup that you can use with a simple bicycle type pump or other low pressure air source.

Darlene


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you isolate the leak points this way? Don't get me wrong- totally doing this myself.


Home Depot you can buy blue soap. It's made toc. Heck gas leaks. I use it to check for gas leaks and refrigerant leaks at my job. But will bubble very easly. Soap works but the gas leak works a lot better. Also alittle trick I learned from my job is sometimes a leak won't bubble if it's really small. So grab a rubber glove and wrap it around where you think the leak is. And it will bubble out of the glove. Works great for those small leaks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Home Depot you can buy blue soap. It's made toc. Heck gas leaks. I use it to check for gas leaks and refrigerant leaks at my job. But will bubble very easly. Soap works but the gas leak works a lot better. Also alittle trick I learned from my job is sometimes a leak won't bubble if it's really small. So grab a rubber glove and wrap it around where you think the leak is. And it will bubble out of the glove. Works great for those small leaks


Cheers but having access to a few lab means access to stuff designed for this also









I just wasn't sure if <10 psig was sufficient for the soapy leak detectants so I am appreciative of everything shared here.


----------



## emsj86

Hey whatever works. That's all that matters anyways


----------



## tikboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Nice clean build, getting compliments here is like pulling teeth.


This is also my first water cooled build. After months of reading and planning out both system and budget, I finally took the plunge. Good thing I chose to use rigid tubing, it really helped in making Claire a clean build on a budget.


----------



## tikboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I see Claire is already getting in the Christmas spirit. It's still far enough out I'm more 'bah humbug!' than anything else but have to say she does have some nice bends.


Thanks! The bends got nicer after a couple of failed attempts. Yeah! It's for Christmas alright and to please the wife.. The green dye was her choice which would not do me well if I decided to go against it







.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I just picked up the Aquacomputer Aqualis XT 880, and the quality of that thing is just insane! The tube itself has to be 4-6 mm thick (at least) and it is really heavy even though its size is Ø80X300 mm, it will look awesome.


----------



## Gabrielzm

PPC discount codes:

Spend $50-250, get 6% off: "TGIVING14-7"
Spend $250-1000, get 8% off: "TGIVING14-8"
Spend over $1000, get 9% off: "TGIVING14-9"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from November 20th through November 27st 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, so I have decided to scrap the two Monsta's and go for Aquacomputers Airplex 480s and a 240, push/pull on both 480s and push on the 240. All radiators is the Airplex Modularity with copper fins and stainless steel side panels.

Will these radiators perform a lot better with push/pull fans @ 1200 rpm than the Monsta's? Are they dirty when shipped, or to ask another question do they need to be cleaned good before use?


----------



## DaaQ

Don't need to be cleaned at all. Iirc they perform better at lower speeds than monsta like 800-1000 rpm.

Btw they are solderless and fluxless.


----------



## electro2u

Hehe. The first rad I bought was an AMS360 copper fin. I got drunk and decided to test fit the thing with screws way too long and punctured several of the waterchannels. That's another reason I went Alphacool--after that I had nightmares about screw guards. It's hard for me to admit to doing this but it's an exercise in humility.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Don't need to be cleaned at all. Iirc they perform better at lower speeds than monsta like 800-1000 rpm.
> 
> Btw they are solderless and fluxless.


Awesome!







I think the fans will be running 12V, maybe I do use 7V adapters if it is too loud.









This will be nice looking with my LD Cooling PC-V8









36 radiator-fans worries me a bit, but nevertheless, they are quite.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hehe. The first rad I bought was an AMS360 copper fin. I got drunk and decided to test fit the thing with screws way too long and punctured several of the waterchannels. That's another reason I went Alphacool--after that I had nightmares about screw guards. It's hard for me to admit to doing this but it's an exercise in humility.


The screw-protectors does not matter too much to me, they are practical if you have long screws, but for my usage I have no reason to have that. I have never punctured a radiator before either (used four EK-radiators before the Monsta's) and the most important part, I never drink before I do anything with my computer (nothing that is *that* important at least). After reading @B NEGATIVE's ranking of the water cooling brands the choice was pretty easy to make, never really liked the Monsta radiators, but I had them, so I just used them.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, so I have decided to scrap the two Monsta's and go for Aquacomputers Airplex 480s and a 240, push/pull on both 480s and push on the 240. All radiators is the Airplex Modularity with copper fins and stainless steel side panels.
> 
> Will these radiators perform a lot better with push/pull fans @ 1200 rpm than the Monsta's? Are they dirty when shipped, or to ask another question do they need to be cleaned good before use?


You may want to open all the port plugs in each end and blow the end blocks out with clean air . . . the delrin end blocks are machined and can have some swarf still left inside.

The bigger issue with those rads is the size . . . . the rads are the same actual width whether for 120 fan sizes or 140 fan sizes. ie a 360 is just as wide as a 420, just shorter.

The difference is the lip on the side rails extends in farther for the narrower 120 fan sized rads.

Check the dimensions as posted and then measure your case where you want it to go to be sure . . .

Darlene


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Air leaking test thanks to @It diva, @B NEGATIVE and @Unicr0nhunter. Thank you guys and gal for that idea. Already found two leaks before filling the loop with coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> details going on chessboard build log soon.
> 
> edit- loving this method...no more messy leak tests for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really thank you guys.


PSH, everyone knows the best way is to put a Mogwai in your case during leak testing. If your face isn't eaten off after a couple of hours, you're good to go!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> PSH, everyone knows the best way is to put a Mogwai in your case during leak testing. If your face isn't eaten off after a couple of hours, you're good to go!


Calselabs ought to have a holiday special where every case comes with a Gremlin.


----------



## X-Nine

Lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Lol


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You may want to open all the port plugs in each end and blow the end blocks out with clean air . . . the delrin end blocks are machined and can have some swarf still left inside.
> 
> The bigger issue with those rads is the size . . . . the rads are the same actual width whether for 120 fan sizes or 140 fan sizes. ie a 360 is just as wide as a 420, just shorter.
> 
> The difference is the lip on the side rails extends in farther for the narrower 120 fan sized rads.
> 
> Check the dimensions as posted and then measure your case where you want it to go to be sure . . .
> 
> Darlene


I will try to get the rest of the delrin out before I use them, yes. Clean air, do you mean compressed air or something else?

I checked the actual sizes of the radiators before I purchased them (always do that when it comes to computer hardware), the 5 1/4" bays on the LD Cooling PC-V8 is around 14,8-15 cm while the width of the AC AMS 480 is 14,6 cm, the length is about the same as the Monsta 480 so no real problems there. In the bottom I went with the AC AMS 480 and 240 (could have done dual 480s if it was not for the phase change tube). 284 mm length in front of the phase change make a good 5+ cm behind the radiator to the phase change tube. The 480 in the bottom is close fit anyways, but I want to do the compromise of cutting the 140 mm fan bolts in the front, cut them just to get on 4,9 mm plates in the front, they are way too long anyways. Then I have some more headroom in the back as well. AC AMS radiators is not the only radiators that is slightly wider than 12~ish mm, the EK XTX is also 13 mm+ wide, I think it is more actually (have not measured it in a while), but the Monsta is 12,6 cm wide, the EK XTX is noticeable wider. My biggest problem is the length of the 480s.

In the bottom apartment (which is about 23 cm height) I will have the AC AMS radiators in the bottom, then a custom bracket for my D5 with EK-D5 X-Top (the "bracket" is 8 cm in height so I have like 4 mm to spare there), I will find out a way for it to work either way. The plan was to use a BP FillPort in the mid-plate and use BP Multi-Link Adapters on each side, guess I have to re-think that idea.









The little problem I may get in the top is possible interference with my reservoir-bracket plate in front of the 5 1/4" bays, that was 5 mm or something away from the Monsta 480 (85 mm thick) while the AMS 480 + 25 mm fan will be 89 mm thick (or 88,5 mm if you want it on the millimeter). I just have to find the angle cutter again then, wont be the first time with this build.


----------



## charliebrown

anybody know where to get replacement o rings for bitspower 250 tube res i looked everywhere thinking of going to grainger any help would be nice


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> anybody know where to get replacement o rings for bitspower 250 tube res i looked everywhere thinking of going to grainger any help would be nice


Not the color I would choose but...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19302/ex-blc-1430/Bitspower_UV_Reactive_Purple_Water_Tank_Z_Series_O-Ring_2_Pack_BP-WTP-OZ-UVPL.html?tl=g30c97s169

I bet they have black too.


----------



## charliebrown

my man


----------



## charliebrown

no black but thanks anyway


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> my man


Wait that is for a different reservoir it seems. Sorry Charlie. Seem to be for tank Z:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-40mm-water-tank-z-multi-403-d-plug-model-pom-version.html

so not sure is the one you want. Is this one that you have:

http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81091375&kind2=7

?


----------



## charliebrown

yes z series


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> Blow the radiators out as much as possible, lowest temperature possible on the oven..... (bake/dry)


I was actually gonna try this if I needed to








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're going to drain it, put a T in the outlet of the rear rad with a cap. (where it goes back to the res)
> 
> That way you'll always have a vent point at a relatively high point in the loop.
> 
> Just loosen the cap, and bump the pump, . . . if no water gets there, there's a blockage, . . . if it starts gushing water, you've bled the air block.
> 
> Also go back and look at anything you changed from before . . . .
> 
> Most fittings have only 5mm of thread, but some have more.
> 
> If you have a block that has limited clearance below a short threaded port, (some CPU blocks) and you use a fitting with long threads, (phobya inline temp sensors come to mind) it'll block all the flow.
> 
> That's why Bitspower has o ringed spacers available. Some of their fittings have very short female thread engagements.
> 
> Darlene


I was thinking about adding a T block and a Bitspower Pressure Valve thingy on my top rad facing the back of my case so I could get rid of any air

Well I've changed a lot, heaps of new fittings and tube but I'm using the sameish Bitspower barbs, standard barb, extenders & 90°, the standard ones I've used before on my CPU block and didnt have a problem, unless I put the CPU block together wrong or something? :headscra

I'm gonna drain it and pull it all apart tomorrow maybe, I'll check every single fitting to make sure there not going to far in


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I was actually gonna try this if I needed to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about adding a T block and a Bitspower Pressure Valve thingy on my top rad facing the back of my case so I could get rid of any air
> 
> Well I've changed a lot, heaps of new fittings and tube but I'm using the sameish Bitspower barbs, standard barb, extenders & 90°, the standard ones I've used before on my CPU block and didnt have a problem, unless I put the CPU block together wrong or something? :headscra
> 
> I'm gonna drain it and pull it all apart tomorrow maybe, I'll check every single fitting to make sure there not going to far in


Different CPU Blocks use different entry and exit points, what seems logical may in fact be backwards depending on how the water flow is designed.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> Different CPU Blocks use different entry and exit points, what seems logical may in fact be backwards depending on how the water flow is designed.


Well I checked that to and I'm pretty sure I got the inlet and outlet right on my block (manual says the middle one is the inlet so thats where the pump goes to)


----------



## jfro63

Quick, beat me to the post of the exact same O-rings... The OCN colleagues, can't be beat!


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Well I checked that to and I'm pretty sure I got the inlet and outlet right on my block (manual says the middle one is the inlet so thats where the pump goes to)


My Heatkiller is the same, it has a water flow plate to ensure all cores are fed equally..


----------



## Sammyboy83

The loop is finished and leak tested.


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Hey OCN,

I'm currently building a water loop; it's my first time building a computer. I just want some community input on aesthetics/functionality (price is less of a factor).

I have an Maximus VII Impact (mITX). I want to watercool the CPU; the GPU is not included in the loop, and I only have 1 x 120mm radiator. I'm currently stuck between two choices: *XSPC RayStorm vs. the Bitspower Full Block* (link)

Just want to hear what you all think of one vs. the other, or if you guys think that another option is better. Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is finished and leak tested.


It's a beauty! Those bends are sexy


----------



## Sammyboy83

Thanks, it was so fun working the aclyric tubes. Never used so many tools with any loop before.

I think the bitspower full block looked very sexy. What does that block cost?


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

129.99, with 8% off right now at PerformancePC


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> PSH, everyone knows the best way is to put a Mogwai in your case during leak testing. If your face isn't eaten off after a couple of hours, you're good to go!
> 
> 
> 
> Calselabs ought to have a holiday special where every case comes with a Gremlin.
Click to expand...

NZXT already has that . . .









They don't even need to do it as a special . . .









Darlene


----------



## VSG

Oh dear


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You may want to open all the port plugs in each end and blow the end blocks out with clean air . . . the delrin end blocks are machined and can have some swarf still left inside.
> 
> The bigger issue with those rads is the size . . . . the rads are the same actual width whether for 120 fan sizes or 140 fan sizes. ie a 360 is just as wide as a 420, just shorter.
> 
> The difference is the lip on the side rails extends in farther for the narrower 120 fan sized rads.
> 
> Check the dimensions as posted and then measure your case where you want it to go to be sure . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I will try to get the rest of the delrin out before I use them, yes. Clean air, do you mean compressed air or something else?
> *
> I checked the actual sizes of the radiators before I purchased them (always do that when it comes to computer hardware), the 5 1/4" bays on the LD Cooling PC-V8 is around 14,8-15 cm while the width of the AC AMS 480 is 14,6 cm, the length is about the same as the Monsta 480 so no real problems there. In the bottom I went with the AC AMS 480 and 240 (could have done dual 480s if it was not for the phase change tube). 284 mm length in front of the phase change make a good 5+ cm behind the radiator to the phase change tube. The 480 in the bottom is close fit anyways, but I want to do the compromise of cutting the 140 mm fan bolts in the front, cut them just to get on 4,9 mm plates in the front, they are way too long anyways. Then I have some more headroom in the back as well. AC AMS radiators is not the only radiators that is slightly wider than 12~ish mm, the EK XTX is also 13 mm+ wide, I think it is more actually (have not measured it in a while), but the Monsta is 12,6 cm wide, the EK XTX is noticeable wider. My biggest problem is the length of the 480s.
> 
> In the bottom apartment (which is about 23 cm height) I will have the AC AMS radiators in the bottom, then a custom bracket for my D5 with EK-D5 X-Top (the "bracket" is 8 cm in height so I have like 4 mm to spare there), I will find out a way for it to work either way. The plan was to use a BP FillPort in the mid-plate and use BP Multi-Link Adapters on each side, guess I have to re-think that idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little problem I may get in the top is possible interference with my reservoir-bracket plate in front of the 5 1/4" bays, that was 5 mm or something away from the Monsta 480 (85 mm thick) while the AMS 480 + 25 mm fan will be 89 mm thick (or 88,5 mm if you want it on the millimeter). I just have to find the angle cutter again then, wont be the first time with this build.
Click to expand...

Compressed air from a small compressor with a little blow nozzle attachment is fine, or any clean shop air will do.

I used half a dozen of the copper fin AMS rads in the Stretch, and since I took them apart to join them up, I could see where it might be good to at least blow some air thru a new one that wasn't going to be disassembled.

The idea is to just blow out each cap, not from one end to the other.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I was actually gonna try this if I needed to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about adding a T block and a Bitspower Pressure Valve thingy on my top rad facing the back of my case so I could get rid of any air
> 
> Well I've changed a lot, heaps of new fittings and tube but I'm using the sameish Bitspower barbs, standard barb, extenders & 90°, the standard ones I've used before on my CPU block and didnt have a problem, unless I put the CPU block together wrong or something? :headscra
> 
> I'm gonna drain it and pull it all apart tomorrow maybe, I'll check every single fitting to make sure there not going to far in
> 
> 
> 
> Different CPU Blocks use different entry and exit points, what seems logical may in fact be backwards depending on how the water flow is designed.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> Different CPU Blocks use different entry and exit points, what seems logical may in fact be backwards depending on how the water flow is designed.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I checked that to and I'm pretty sure I got the inlet and outlet right on my block (manual says the middle one is the inlet so thats where the pump goes to)
Click to expand...

If you took the block apart, check that you didn't get the top on 90* rotated . . . . you wouldn't be the first guy in here to do that and have no flow.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is finished and leak tested.


Looks good with the clear coolant.
I like.

It could of had lower profile bends tho....


----------



## Sammyboy83

Lower profile, you mean I should get the tubes shorter/closer to the cpu block?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> Lower profile, you mean I should _could_ get the tubes shorter/closer to the cpu block?


More like that.....

There is no right or wrong length,it just looks tidier when its low profile to me.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is finished and leak tested.










That... That is .. Beautfiul


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Compressed air from a small compressor with a little blow nozzle attachment is fine, or any clean shop air will do.
> 
> I used half a dozen of the copper fin AMS rads in the Stretch, and since I took them apart to join them up, I could see where it might be good to at least blow some air thru a new one that wasn't going to be disassembled.
> 
> The idea is to just blow out each cap, not from one end to the other.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks, I will try that. I guess there is some regulations on the big compressor in this household.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> Lower profile, you mean I should get the tubes shorter/closer to the cpu block?


Guess so.

If you want to work more with the acrylic you could do only vertically and horizontal tubing, with 90 degree bends between (thinking between mosfet, cpu block and chipset), that will probably look more clean, but it is more work too.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theSarcoplasmic*
> 
> Hey OCN,
> 
> I'm currently building a water loop; it's my first time building a computer. I just want some community input on aesthetics/functionality (price is less of a factor).
> 
> I have an Maximus VII Impact (mITX). I want to watercool the CPU; the GPU is not included in the loop, and I only have 1 x 120mm radiator. I'm currently stuck between two choices: *XSPC RayStorm vs. the Bitspower Full Block* (link)
> 
> Just want to hear what you all think of one vs. the other, or if you guys think that another option is better. Thanks!
> It's a beauty! Those bends are sexy






But but but... Are mine sexy?













-Zepp


----------



## Sammyboy83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> More like that.....
> 
> There is no right or wrong length,it just looks tidier when its low profile to me.


I will shorter those tubes next time I clean the loop: It's to damn hard to get those tubes off, didn't use any lubricant.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If you want to work more with the acrylic you could do only vertically and horizontal tubing, with 90 degree bends between (thinking between mosfet, cpu block and chipset), that will probably look more clean, but it is more work too.


I was thinking about those 90 degree multi link adapters, but then it would cost alot more. Bending the tubes to the right lenght did take some time, and I think that bending was the fun part.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammyboy83*
> 
> I was thinking about those 90 degree multi link adapters, but then it would cost alot more. Bending the tubes to the right lenght did take some time, and I think that bending was the fun part.


Yes, those 90 degree adapters cost enough, but you have probably sunken a lot of money into your build already, so why not a little more? That is how I am thinkin'









Computers are not supposed to be cheap!









But from fun to fact, you could bend it so that you have 90 degrees out of each Multi-Link Adapter, (if you think X, Y, Z axis, where x to the left side, y towards you and z up to the top), generally three-dimensions used in engineering amongst other things. One 90 degree bend in y-direction (or around the Z-axis), another 90 degree bend in z-direction (down to the bottom of your case) (or around y-axis) and another 90 degree bend in y-direction (or around X-axis) to get it down to your chipset. This was meant as how you could do the bending from the cpu block to the chipset. You could do the same from the mosfet to the cpu block as well, then it would have become perfect in my mind. Thought about doing it like that myself, but I found another way that is working better for what I am doing.

If you do not understand what I just told you, first sketch up the x,y,z axis on a paper and PM me for more information regarding this.


----------



## somerandombloke

Inside the case


The radiator


My first attempt at water cooling. So pardon the odd tube routings.


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> But but but... Are mine sexy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somerandombloke*
> 
> Inside the case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at water cooling. So pardon the odd tube routings.


Those quick-disconnects looks huge, are those QD4?


----------



## Chopper1591

Yeah.
I need to redo the loop, AGAIN.
Been like 3 weeks ago only.









Bought an XSPC d5 top/res combo to replace my ek top and xspc tube res.
The previous was/is working perfectly... but I just bought a new gpu, r9 290 tri-x. And that card is 30mm longer then my current 7950 vapor-x.
Clearance between the vapor-x and my tube res is like 10mm. So that's why I switch.

Anyway...

Looking for some tips on how to improve my loop bleeding skills.
I just filled, turned pump on, waited, filled again. Then tilted the case all ways and turned on again. Then repeated.

Can I do it quicker?
Loop can be seen in my sig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somerandombloke*
> 
> Inside the case
> 
> 
> The radiator
> 
> 
> My first attempt at water cooling. So pardon the odd tube routings.


Couldn't you keep the res. outside the case also?
Would've made tubing cleaner I guess.


----------



## wermad

Beating-dead-horse question:

Static pressure fan recommendations (ut60)?

*no GT please
*budget ~$10-15 each
* need 12x (one bank in pull, two in push, three rads)
*pwm via mb? no fancy controllers please

I've done some search and have found a bit of info. I bought some SP120 hp and they're quite loud. Ive read Dar's info on Corsair pwm sp these are out of the question.

Some candidates I've considered do far:

-sp120 qe
-sp120 led (1.6k)
-xspc xinruilian 1650
-rosewill hyperborea pwm
-jetflows

Thanks guys! +1

I'm slowly getting back into the pool. New case had to be rma'd as Ups damaged it pretty good.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Beating-dead-horse question:
> 
> Static pressure fan recommendations (ut60)?
> 
> *no GT please
> *budget ~$10-15 each
> * need 12x (one bank in pull, two in push, three rads)
> *pwm via mb? no fancy controllers please
> 
> I've done some search and have found a bit of info. I bought some SP120 hp and they're quite loud. Ive read Dar's info on Corsair pwm sp these are out of the question.
> 
> Some candidates I've considered do far:
> 
> -sp120 qe
> -sp120 led (1.6k)
> -xspc xinruilian 1650
> -rosewill hyperborea pwm
> -jetflows
> 
> Thanks guys! +1
> 
> I'm slowly getting back into the pool. New case had to be rma'd as Ups damaged it pretty good.


What about our Helix PWM fans?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Beating-dead-horse question:
> 
> Static pressure fan recommendations (ut60)?
> 
> *no GT please
> *budget ~$10-15 each
> * need 12x (one bank in pull, two in push, three rads)
> *pwm via mb? no fancy controllers please
> 
> I've done some search and have found a bit of info. I bought some SP120 hp and they're quite loud. Ive read Dar's info on Corsair pwm sp these are out of the question.
> 
> Some candidates I've considered do far:
> 
> -sp120 qe
> -sp120 led (1.6k)
> -xspc xinruilian 1650
> -rosewill hyperborea pwm
> -jetflows
> 
> Thanks guys! +1
> 
> I'm slowly getting back into the pool. New case had to be rma'd as Ups damaged it pretty good.


Glad to see you back Wermad







What about akasa apache black(http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10345/fan-675/Akasa_120mm_x_25mm_Apache_Black_Super_Silent_PWM_Fan_w_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearings_-_Black.html?tl=g36c365s936)? I only have the 140 mm version and it is a good fan. Don't have the 120 mm version however. Have good experience with http://www.performance-pcs.com/parvum-systems-f1-0-performance-pressure-optimised-fan-white.html (but they are not on your price range) and with phanteks PH-F120HP PWM. Notice that those PWM Phanteks are not easy to find since they only come with the cpu cooler. Phanteks just release a new model of the PWM fan but it seems (from specs which don't tell much....) worse that the older from the cpu cooler (http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC12DX.html). Also notice that the PWM version is quite different from the non-pwm version (http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120S.html) with the PWM been a lot better for rads (from my own experience since I got both going in the chessboard build).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What about our Helix PWM fans?


Havent found a great review of them. Not the GT replacement many were looking for. Thank you though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Glad to see you back Wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about akasa apache black(http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10345/fan-675/Akasa_120mm_x_25mm_Apache_Black_Super_Silent_PWM_Fan_w_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearings_-_Black.html?tl=g36c365s936)? I only have the 140 mm version and it is a good fan. Don't have the 120 mm version however. Have good experience with http://www.performance-pcs.com/parvum-systems-f1-0-performance-pressure-optimised-fan-white.html (but they are not on your price range) and with phanteks PH-F120HP PWM. Notice that those PWM Phanteks are not easy to find since they only come with the cpu cooler. Phanteks just release a new model of the PWM fan but it seems (from specs which don't tell much....) worse that the older from the cpu cooler (http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC12DX.html). Also notice that the PWM version is quite different from the non-pwm version (http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120S.html) with the PWM been a lot better for rads (from my own experience since I got both going in the chessboard build).


Thank you







. I think the hyper boreas are a rebadge apache and cheaper. Im more inclined for neutral colors, so white may not be my cup of tea.

The big question with pwm, is can I run twelve off the mb header?

Found the Enermax Twisters, any thoughts?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Beating-dead-horse question:
> 
> Static pressure fan recommendations (ut60)?
> 
> *no GT please
> *budget ~$10-15 each
> * need 12x (one bank in pull, two in push, three rads)
> *pwm via mb? no fancy controllers please
> 
> I've done some search and have found a bit of info. I bought some SP120 hp and they're quite loud. Ive read Dar's info on Corsair pwm sp these are out of the question.
> 
> Some candidates I've considered do far:
> 
> -sp120 qe
> -sp120 led (1.6k)
> -xspc xinruilian 1650
> -rosewill hyperborea pwm
> -jetflows
> 
> Thanks guys! +1
> 
> I'm slowly getting back into the pool. New case had to be rma'd as Ups damaged it pretty good.


I don't think you can pwm that much fans from the mb.
Or you have to use very low wattage fans.

Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Beating-dead-horse question:
> 
> Static pressure fan recommendations (ut60)?
> 
> *no GT please
> *budget ~$10-15 each
> * need 12x (one bank in pull, two in push, three rads)
> *pwm via mb? no fancy controllers please
> 
> I've done some search and have found a bit of info. I bought some SP120 hp and they're quite loud. Ive read Dar's info on Corsair pwm sp these are out of the question.
> 
> Some candidates I've considered do far:
> 
> -sp120 qe
> -sp120 led (1.6k)
> -xspc xinruilian 1650
> -rosewill hyperborea pwm
> -jetflows
> 
> Thanks guys! +1
> 
> I'm slowly getting back into the pool. New case had to be rma'd as Ups damaged it pretty good.


I for one do not like fancy fan-controllers either, just buy a few of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14665/ele-991/4-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_8xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-4-83.html and buy fans that are as loud as you prefer at 12V (or also get 7V adapters) and you are into business.

I have 19x 120 mm 1200 rpm fans and two of those Modmytoys 8-fan adapters, I also have three Swiftech PWM-controllers (same thing only with SATA-cable and the possibility to connect it to the motherboard) it takes 7 fans if I remember right and you can control everything from a built in fan-controller on your motherboard (such as FanXpert 2/3 from Asus). The Swiftech-controller does not work with Corsair fans @ 12V, apart from that, that is the best solution if you ask me. Up top for lazy solutions!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Havent found a great review of them. Not the GT replacement many were looking for. Thank you though.
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I think the hyper boreas are a rebadge apache and cheaper. Im more inclined for neutral colors, so white may not be my cup of tea.
> 
> The big question with pwm, is can I run twelve off the mb header?
> 
> Found the Enermax Twisters, any thoughts?


use two of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html?tl=c121s424b33

and you can hook the fans to the MB cpu fan header and the accessory one (if you have an Asus MB). 12 v will come straight from PSU and will only regulate the RPM from the fan header. About the fans both the parvrum (aka Alpenföhn fans) and phanteks come with black fans too.









about the enermarx they seem to do the job. Got one to experiment with but I found a little on the noise side to my taste. Perhaps because I got the white version which have leds and small opening on the side which I think contribute to increase noise.


----------



## Chopper1591

Bleeding tips, anyone?

Looks like my previous post skipped the attention.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Integrated res tray is in and fill port tapped.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I for one do not like fancy fan-controllers either, just buy a few of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14665/ele-991/4-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_8xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-4-83.html and buy fans that are as loud as you prefer at 12V (or also get 7V adapters) and you are into business.
> 
> I have 19x 120 mm 1200 rpm fans and two of those Modmytoys 8-fan adapters, I also have three Swiftech PWM-controllers (same thing only with SATA-cable and the possibility to connect it to the motherboard) it takes 7 fans if I remember right and you can control everything from a built in fan-controller on your motherboard (such as FanXpert 2/3 from Asus). The Swiftech-controller does not work with Corsair fans @ 12V, apart from that, that is the best solution if you ask me. Up top for lazy solutions!


You mention the corsair fans do t work at 12v could you explain this. I ask because I have three pwm corsair fans on the swiftech pwm and it changes the speeds but doesn't show up rpms in bios or in hwmonitor


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Bleeding tips, anyone?
> 
> Looks like my previous post skipped the attention.


It always help if you have a port high up in the loop to fill and bleed. Ideally if you have rad on top you can have 2 ports facing up (in multiple ports rads) and fill the loop from there. That would make fill and bleed a breeze since the whole loop is almost filled before you even turn the pump....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Integrated res tray is in and fill port tapped.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looking gorgeous and singular B Neg. Can wait to see the coolant inside that custom reservoir.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You mention the corsair fans do t work at 12v could you explain this. I ask because I have three pwm corsair fans on the swiftech pwm and it changes the speeds but doesn't show up rpms in bios or in hwmonitor


Hmm, that is very weird, because I tried my Corsair SP120 High Pressure fans and they were spinning at 2350 rpm all the time no matter what I did or did not do (believe it or not but I can hear the difference from 2350 rpm (full speed) and pretty much anything else on those fans, used them quite a lot), read somewhere that that was normal with those kind of fans on that controller. Let's see: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1953177/sp120-pwm-fans-full-speed.html this thread amongst others. Same problem as I am experiencing, but I do not use those fans anymore so it is all the same to me now.







I just unplugged the fans and used other fans.







I have not done a whole lot of research about this, someone in here might have solved the "problem" I was experiencing back then, but as I said, had many other fans so I just used some 700 rpm fans instead.









The only way I was able to "adjust" the rpm of those fans were Fan Xpert 2 and Noctua 7V adapters, then I got them down to about 700-800 rpm idle, around 1500 rpm under load.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You mention the corsair fans do t work at 12v could you explain this. I ask because I have three pwm corsair fans on the swiftech pwm and it changes the speeds but doesn't show up rpms in bios or in hwmonitor


corsair PWM implementation is a little bit off intel specs. You can check that info on the Aquaero thread. That been said are you sure you have one of your fans connected to the channel 1 of the swiftech splitter? Are you using this model correct?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html?tl=c121s424b33

if so the only channel that report rpm is channel one (the one with the red cap on it).


----------



## Hefner

deleted, accident


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Integrated res tray is in and fill port tapped.












Plain epic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It always help if you have a port high up in the loop to fill and bleed. Ideally if you have rad on top you can have 2 ports facing up (in multiple ports rads) and fill the loop from there. That would make fill and bleed a breeze since the whole loop is almost filled before you even turn the pump....
> looking gorgeous and singular B Neg. Can wait to see the coolant inside that custom reservoir.


You are right.
Don't know why I haven't thought about that.
As you can see in my sig, I do have the rad on top of the case. And it is an UT60 so it has 7 ports, including one on the rear of the rad.



So I will just put the case on the front and fill it through there.
Only downside is I can't see when it is full that way...
And when it leaks in that orientation it all flows into the case.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plain epic.
> You are right.
> Don't know why I haven't thought about that.
> As you can see in my sig, I do have the rad on top of the case. And it is an UT60 so it has 7 ports, including one on the rear of the rad.
> 
> 
> 
> So I will just put the case on the front and fill it through there.
> Only downside is I can't see when it is full that way...
> And when it leaks in that orientation it all flows into the case.


no need to use that particular port. You can also use the two ports up those you are using in the loop if is more convenient (since you have 6 there, two facing down with fittings, two front and two up). Place a lot of towels to avoid any spilling during filling and take your time and go slow







keep one open to check fluid level and vent and place the funnel on the other port facing up. That's the way I fill my loop and only take a few seconds of pump on to bleed most of the loop that way.


----------



## somerandombloke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Those quick-disconnects looks huge, are those QD4?


Correct, those are QD4 and yes, they are huge.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Couldn't you keep the res. outside the case also?
> Would've made tubing cleaner I guess.


I'm currently using a Swiftech Maelstrom Dual 5.25 bay res/pump combo


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Beating-dead-horse question:
> 
> Static pressure fan recommendations (ut60)?
> 
> *no GT please
> *budget ~$10-15 each
> * need 12x (one bank in pull, two in push, three rads)
> *pwm via mb? no fancy controllers please
> 
> I've done some search and have found a bit of info. I bought some SP120 hp and they're quite loud. Ive read Dar's info on Corsair pwm sp these are out of the question.
> 
> Some candidates I've considered do far:
> 
> -sp120 qe
> -sp120 led (1.6k)
> -xspc xinruilian 1650
> -rosewill hyperborea pwm
> -jetflows
> 
> Thanks guys! +1
> 
> I'm slowly getting back into the pool. New case had to be rma'd as Ups damaged it pretty good.


WB. if you have time, newegg puts the cougar pwm fans on sale often. i bought a bunch (16) between two purchases for right around $10. they work great for me, but i'm not trying to set any cooling records. you should have kept the HAF XB.









WIP


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> no need to use that particular port. You can also use the two ports up those you are using in the loop if is more convenient (since you have 6 there, two facing down with fittings, two front and two up). Place a lot of towels to avoid any spilling during filling and take your time and go slow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keep one open to check fluid level and vent and place the funnel on the other port facing up. That's the way I fill my loop and only take a few seconds of pump on to bleed most of the loop that way.


Sounds simpel enough indeed.
Sadly I have mine oriented this way(sorry for the bad picture quality):


Do you keep the two caps of while you bleed? Or is that a sure recipe for disaster?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somerandombloke*
> 
> Correct, those are QD4 and yes, they are huge.
> I'm currently using a Swiftech Maelstrom Dual 5.25 bay res/pump combo


That's okay.
But I was just asking that out of curiosity.
Thought, maybe you could buy a res that could be put outside the case. As this was a loop from scartch.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Sounds simpel enough indeed.
> Sadly I have mine oriented this way(sorry for the bad picture quality):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you keep the two caps of while you bleed? Or is that a sure recipe for disaster?


noooooo!







Only with the pump off. If you turn the pump on liquid will start to spill from the open caps. It also helps sometimes to loose a bit a cap from the reservoir below. Then the liquid will go in the reservoir and the air will go out from the reservoir. But keep an eye on because otherwise the coolant will spill from the loose cap from the reservoir when is full. If you want you might consider a more permanent solution to have a fill port there in the up rad: like a 90 degrees facing up from either port (fill/bleed on the back of the rad or one of the two in front) and something like this or an extender with a simple cap on it:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22164/ex-tub-2378/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Carbon_Black_BP-MVV-CBBK.html?tl=g30c101s460

hope it helps


----------



## aaroc

I hate koolance with all my hearth. Just finished taking the liquid out of my loop. And started cleaning 4 pairs of koolance male female qdc4 dog poop black pairs with a metallic brush of my dremel kit and pliers to move it, didn't use the dremel because there was no room to connect the brush. Three of the female qdc4 didn't closed their internal mechanism. Luckily my loop didn't have liquid when I started disconnecting the qdc4 dog poop edition. After cutting and pinching my hands with the dremel brush and taking al the green poop from the inside the female qdc4 started to close its internal mechanism again. Now I have to clean the CPU block, because I see green poop inside on the little fins.

If these things cost 1 USD I will not care, but at more than 20 USD each.....

The pretty part is that I have four more pairs unopened. Luckily I took my loop apart before opening them. I will request an RMA for silver ones when I fly to the USA next month.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> noooooo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only with the pump off. If you turn the pump on liquid will start to spill from the open caps. It also helps sometimes to loose a bit a cap from the reservoir below. Then the liquid will go in the reservoir and the air will go out from the reservoir. But keep an eye on because otherwise the coolant will spill from the loose cap from the reservoir when is full. If you want you might consider a more permanent solution to have a fill port there in the up rad: like a 90 degrees facing up from either port (fill/bleed on the back of the rad or one of the two in front) and something like this or an extender with a simple cap on it:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22164/ex-tub-2378/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Carbon_Black_BP-MVV-CBBK.html?tl=g30c101s460
> 
> hope it helps


Yeah, thanks.

If I need to buy more parts in the future I will probably grab an valve.
Saw that one when I bought the parts when I build the current loop. But I found it somewhat expensive.

I will also need to decide where to put the drain port now. Maybe I will just leave it out of the loop and use the rear plug on the radiator when I need to drain.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I don't think you can pwm that much fans from the mb.
> Or you have to use very low wattage fans.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong.


Normally, beyond two pwm fans, you would wanna get power directly off the psu. I plan to use the Swiftech hubs (or Phanteks). And like the pwm splitter cables, power comes from the psu, the rpm line (usually only one fan's line) and pwm line will go to the board. The issue is I've read that 12 fans using one header may end up causing issues w/ the pulse signals and your fans end up at 12v all the time. I really don't want to spend a ton of money on a pwm controller and I would prefer not to use voltage controller (to keep the case clean looking).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I for one do not like fancy fan-controllers either, just buy a few of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14665/ele-991/4-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_8xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-4-83.html and buy fans that are as loud as you prefer at 12V (or also get 7V adapters) and you are into business.
> 
> I have 19x 120 mm 1200 rpm fans and two of those Modmytoys 8-fan adapters, I also have three Swiftech PWM-controllers (same thing only with SATA-cable and the possibility to connect it to the motherboard) it takes 7 fans if I remember right and you can control everything from a built in fan-controller on your motherboard (such as FanXpert 2/3 from Asus). The Swiftech-controller does not work with Corsair fans @ 12V, apart from that, that is the best solution if you ask me. Up top for lazy solutions!


I've been using those for a few years now. Great if you only have voltage control fans. I actually have three 8x and four 5x hubs in my parts bin. If I don't go pwm, I'll be reusing these.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> use two of these:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html?tl=c121s424b33
> 
> and you can hook the fans to the MB cpu fan header and the accessory one (if you have an Asus MB). 12 v will come straight from PSU and will only regulate the RPM from the fan header. About the fans both the parvrum (aka Alpenföhn fans) and phanteks come with black fans too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about the enermarx they seem to do the job. Got one to experiment with but I found a little on the noise side to my taste. Perhaps because I got the white version which have leds and small opening on the side which I think contribute to increase noise.


That's what I was thinking. Join both hubs w/ a splitter for the mb and each one gets its own power (sata). I hope there's no trouble but to be on the safe side, I'll be ordering the fans from Amazon (great return policy).

Also, the Phanteks hub (11 fans) looks very tasty too








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> WB. if you have time, newegg puts the cougar pwm fans on sale often. i bought a bunch (16) between two purchases for right around $10. they work great for me, but i'm not trying to set any cooling records. you should have kept the HAF XB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WIP


I like cougar, had a bunch of their CFD 140s. I had one 120 and it was horrible. I'll have to think about the 120 pwm but so far, I"m really liking the Enermax Twister Pressure.

I'm in not rush since I'm missing quite a lot of the wc components. This will be a very slow wc build







.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Normally, beyond two pwm fans, you would wanna get power directly off the psu. *I plan to use the Swiftech hubs (or Phanteks).* And like the pwm splitter cables, power comes from the psu, the rpm line (usually only one fan's line) and pwm line will go to the board. The issue is I've read that 12 fans using one header may end up causing issues w/ the pulse signals and your fans end up at 12v all the time. I really don't want to spend a ton of money on a pwm controller and I would prefer not to use voltage controller (to keep the case clean looking).


Keep in mind that the Phanteks hub is not designed to be used with PWM fans like the Swiftech PWM splitter. They are totally different.

The Phanteks hubs use the mobo's PWM signal to modulate the 12V supply to 3-pin voltage controlled fans. It's also a bit buggy in design and doesn't always work very well on all mobos or with all 3-pin fans. I'm really not sure where the problem lies tbh, but there have been more than a few [better described as 'a LOT of'] people who have not been able to get the Phanteks hub to work for them, and it seems the majority of them are having trouble with the newer designed Phanteks hub that comes with the newer Enthoo Luxe, Enthoo Pro, and EVOLV cases and a version of which is now sold by itself. The hub that came with the Enthoo Primo was a bit different and seems to work a little better, but is not immune to some of the same complaints


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Beating-dead-horse question:
> 
> Static pressure fan recommendations (ut60)?
> 
> *no GT please
> *budget ~$10-15 each
> * need 12x (one bank in pull, two in push, three rads)
> *pwm via mb? no fancy controllers please
> 
> I've done some search and have found a bit of info. I bought some SP120 hp and they're quite loud. Ive read Dar's info on Corsair pwm sp these are out of the question.
> 
> Some candidates I've considered do far:
> 
> -sp120 qe
> -sp120 led (1.6k)
> -xspc xinruilian 1650
> -rosewill hyperborea pwm
> -jetflows
> 
> Thanks guys! +1
> 
> I'm slowly getting back into the pool. New case had to be rma'd as Ups damaged it pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> WB. if you have time, newegg puts the cougar pwm fans on sale often. i bought a bunch (16) between two purchases for right around $10. they work great for me, but i'm not trying to set any cooling records. you should have kept the HAF XB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WIP
Click to expand...

I keep pointing out the benefits of Yate Loons. You can get them ~$5 each at every flavor from PPCs' when you forgo their sleeving option. They do pretty well even if they aren't Radiator fans. I run their 20mm units on my HWLabs Stealth 360 atm but will be upgrading to Radiator Fans sometime in the near future since my mod has changed. They may be sleeved bearing units but as cheap as they are I'm not sweating replacement.









Do the fans have to be PWM? Not sure so knowing that YLs' aren't PWM, I should consider that a deal breaker or not?









Still no answer for my earlier question about series radiator set paralel and cavitation? Maybe just got lost in the shuffle.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I keep pointing out the benefits of Yate Loons. You can get them ~$5 each at every flavor from PPCs' when you forgo their sleeving option. They do pretty well even if they aren't Radiator fans. I run their 20mm units on my HWLabs Stealth 360 atm but will be upgrading to Radiator Fans sometime in the near future since my mod has changed. They may be sleeved bearing units but as cheap as they are I'm not sweating replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the fans have to be PWM? Not sure so knowing that YLs' aren't PWM, I should consider that a deal breaker or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still no answer for my earlier question about series radiator set paralel and cavitation? Maybe just got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


is this was you have in mind?

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/

if so there are some interesting results there if you have not read it yet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Keep in mind that the Phanteks hub is not designed to be used with PWM fans like the Swiftech PWM splitter. They are totally different.
> 
> The Phanteks hubs use the mobo's PWM signal to modulate the 12V supply to 3-pin voltage controlled fans. It's also a bit buggy in design and doesn't always work very well on all mobos or with all 3-pin fans. I'm really not sure where the problem lies tbh, but there have been more than a few [better described as 'a LOT of'] people who have not been able to get the Phanteks hub to work for them, and it seems the majority of them are having trouble with the newer designed Phanteks hub that comes with the newer Enthoo Luxe, Enthoo Pro, and EVOLV cases and a version of which is now sold by itself. The hub that came with the Enthoo Primo was a bit different and seems to work a little better, but is not immune to some of the same complaints


Thanks! I'll just pick up one Swiftech hub








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I keep pointing out the benefits of Yate Loons. You can get them ~$5 each at every flavor from PPCs' when you forgo their sleeving option. They do pretty well even if they aren't Radiator fans. I run their 20mm units on my HWLabs Stealth 360 atm but will be upgrading to Radiator Fans sometime in the near future since my mod has changed. They may be sleeved bearing units but as cheap as they are I'm not sweating replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the fans have to be PWM? Not sure so knowing that YLs' aren't PWM, I should consider that a deal breaker or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still no answer for my earlier question about series radiator set paralel and cavitation? Maybe just got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hey bud, im going to run bank of fans on each rad, so push/pull is out of the question. So I'm looking for some decent static pressure fans. So far, there's a few choices but there's still a lot of uncertainty I want to clear up. I have some sp120 hp, and these suckers are loud (2300rpm).


----------



## MadHatter5045

I hadn't seen anyone post it yet, so I thought I'd let everyone know that the 6% off Thanksgiving coupon for PPCs actually gives you 7% off at check out. Every little bit helps







.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, so I have decided to scrap the two Monsta's and go for Aquacomputers Airplex 480s and a 240, push/pull on both 480s and push on the 240. All radiators is the Airplex Modularity with copper fins and stainless steel side panels.
> 
> Will these radiators perform a lot better with push/pull fans @ 1200 rpm than the Monsta's? Are they dirty when shipped, or to ask another question do they need to be cleaned good before use?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, so I have decided to scrap the two Monsta's and go for Aquacomputers Airplex 480s and a 240, push/pull on both 480s and push on the 240. All radiators is the Airplex Modularity with copper fins and stainless steel side panels.
> 
> Will these radiators perform a lot better with push/pull fans @ 1200 rpm than the Monsta's? Are they dirty when shipped, or to ask another question do they need to be cleaned good before use?


Just checked on mine, the AMS rads have recessed ports and the c47 fittings sit pretty far into them. You might want to get some very short matching extenders.
This pic is using a spare port plate from joining two 280's together for a 560.



That is just snugged up by hand not really compressing the oring much if at all. Was just a thought that occurred to me reading thru the thread and looking at the build log.

Looking forward to seeing it progress.


----------



## somerandombloke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks! I'll just pick up one Swiftech hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey bud, im going to run bank of fans on each rad, so push/pull is out of the question. So I'm looking for some decent static pressure fans. So far, there's a few choices but there's still a lot of uncertainty I want to clear up. I have some sp120 hp, and these suckers are loud (2300rpm).


I would recommend the COUGAR CF-V12H Vortex. I have 3 of them and 3 of the Cougars HDB LED fans and all 6 of them are much quieter than the 3 CM Sickleflow fans I used previously.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I keep pointing out the benefits of Yate Loons. You can get them ~$5 each at every flavor from PPCs' when you forgo their sleeving option. They do pretty well even if they aren't Radiator fans. I run their 20mm units on my HWLabs Stealth 360 atm but will be upgrading to Radiator Fans sometime in the near future since my mod has changed. They may be sleeved bearing units but as cheap as they are I'm not sweating replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the fans have to be PWM? Not sure so knowing that YLs' aren't PWM, I should consider that a deal breaker or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still no answer for my earlier question about series radiator set paralel and cavitation? Maybe just got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is this was you have in mind?
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/
> 
> if so there are some interesting results there if you have not read it yet.
Click to expand...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you took the block apart, check that you didn't get the top on 90* rotated . . . . you wouldn't be the first guy in here to do that and have no flow.
> 
> Darlene


You know what, I actually wouldnt be surprised if this is whats wrong, gonna drain my loops today and have a look







hopefully thats all this is


----------



## Lionheart1980

Hey guys.. i was looking around for some answers on twin D5/ bay res... which is the best? XSPC Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir any good? Is there a better one?











I was thinking about doing similar one of someone's build..


----------



## Lionheart1980

Or twin D5 top seperate from the bay res is better?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone have any thoughts on the Aquacomputer Aquastream XT pumps? I want to change pumps when I put together the loop in the desk and thought I'd retire my swiftech MCP355 DDC (been a great pump, especially for buying used) and I plan to swap to a tube res or something else as I'll have 6in (152mm) of clearance inside the top of the desk and will be 5' (1.524 meters) long (5.5' x 2.5' x .5' - proposed dimensions as of right now)


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I keep pointing out the benefits of Yate Loons. You can get them ~$5 each at every flavor from PPCs' when you forgo their sleeving option. They do pretty well even if they aren't Radiator fans. I run their 20mm units on my HWLabs Stealth 360 atm but will be upgrading to Radiator Fans sometime in the near future since my mod has changed. They may be sleeved bearing units but as cheap as they are I'm not sweating replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the fans have to be PWM? Not sure so knowing that YLs' aren't PWM, I should consider that a deal breaker or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still no answer for my earlier question about series radiator set paralel and cavitation? Maybe just got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Cavitation is a problem limited to the pump and for water cooling pc applications it's almost unheard of without using something crazy. I would also warn against radiators being run in parallel (except maybe Mora's) as the drop in flow rate can result in laminar flow and actually get worse temps.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

@It diva *gives you a big sloppy kiss* I pulled my CPU block apart to find... the bottom fins were going the wrong direction









Gonna put my loop back together after draining the top rad and see how we go this time


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> @@It diva *gives you a big sloppy kiss* I pulled my CPU block apart to find... the bottom fins were going the wrong direction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna put my loop back together after draining the top rad and see how we go this time


Well done Darlene for figuring it out! Sure quite a few subscribers to this thread were stumped on your filling issues


----------



## VSG

HWL SR-2 rads are out for purchase now I see.

I will test one out real soon, almost home now so Mayhems Havoc write-up is the first thing to take care of. In the meantime:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> HWL SR-2 rads are out for purchase now I see.
> 
> I will test one out real soon, almost home now so Mayhems Havoc write-up is the first thing to take care of. In the meantime:


Was looking at their 480's (HWL)


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Well done Darlene for figuring it out! Sure quite a few subscribers to this thread were stumped on your filling issues


hahah yeah I'm amazed it was something so simple and stupid









Its filling slowly now tho







, knowing my luck i'll fill, bleed and set it up again and it wont work


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> HWL SR-2 rads are out for purchase now I see.
> 
> I will test one out real soon, almost home now so Mayhems Havoc write-up is the first thing to take care of. In the meantime:


What a beauty... And apparently they change the fan spacing to ~15 mm instead of the old ~20 mm. Do you known if they come in different colors VSG or is that matte black with white print?

Edit - yep...total length of the 560 is now 592 mm instead of 605 mm of the sr1.


----------



## lowfat

Does it have the same finish as the Nemesis? Is the logo recessed or removable?


----------



## CaliLife17

I am curious to see how these perform vs the GTX Nemesis. The GTX was very good across a wide range, will be interested to see how the sr2 does at the 800 and below area.

I have 2x560, 480, 360, 240 gtx nemesis rads for my build and they are great rads. Big fan of HWLabs. I do see they went back to a smooth finish on the sr2.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> What a beauty... And apparently they change the fan spacing to ~15 mm instead of the old ~20 mm. Do you known if they come in different colors VSG or is that matte black with white print?
> 
> Edit - yep...total length of the 560 is now 592 mm instead of 605 mm of the sr1.


Yeah, all their 140x rads are now with 15mm fan spacing thankfully.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Does it have the same finish as the Nemesis? Is the logo recessed or removable?


Nemesis has matte finish in Europe, and this seems to have the matte finish throughout. Logo is on the side of the rad frame like the XSPC ones on their rads if you have seen it in person.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> I am curious to see how these perform vs the GTX Nemesis. The GTX was very good across a wide range, will be interested to see how the sr2 does at the 800 and below area.
> 
> I have 2x560, 480, 360, 240 gtx nemesis rads for my build and they are great rads. Big fan of HWLabs. I do see they went back to a smooth finish on the sr2.


Going by the blurb on their website and what I have seen myself, these are not meant to replace the Nemesis GTX necessarily. The ones you have are still their top dog for performance scaling.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So I got an airlock in my top rad I'm guessing and the waters hardly flowing (forgot to change the speed from 3 to 5)

But its slowly filling I suppose, gonna leave it running for a few hours and hope it gets its sh... act together









I think I'll have to work out a better setup for the top rad if I'm gonna have to deal with this crap every time I fill it


----------



## CaliLife17

Ya im thinking the SR2 will be the best for >800 rpm but the rest GTX Nemsis will still be ahead. HWLabs has a really great range of radiators depending on what you need.


----------



## ledzepp3

If those rads offer a better opportunity to run my fans at lower speeds, I'm there. Stick another 480 in the roof of my case and I'll be golden.

-Zepp


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> HWL SR-2 rads are out for purchase now I see.
> 
> I will test one out real soon, almost home now so Mayhems Havoc write-up is the first thing to take care of. In the meantime:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn, why couldn't they include a bottom drain port in this new one so I can finally get rid of my last Alphacool rad. I want a SR2 480 to replace a UT 60 but giving up the drain port for that beautiful finish will be a touch call. Plus the pricing is a bit eye watering


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Me again lol

So I think I finally found the real problem... my GPU block, I think the threads are do long on the barbs and plugs, I still need to rip my loop apart and make 100% but when I laid the case down and left the res standing and ran the pump I heard the water trickle and drip inside the block









Also I got water all through my PSU (dont ask) but it was off at the time with no power connected, suggestions on how to save it?

I'm really having no luck with this setup


----------



## Jakewat

Getting there. I didn't have any 2000 grit sandpaper so I will have to go find some tomorrow. Also it's kind of hard to take pics at night but it's looking pretty good atm. I also have a new build log up if anyone is interested:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Me again lol
> 
> So I think I finally found the real problem... my GPU block, *I think the threads are do long on the barbs and plugs*, I still need to rip my loop apart and make 100% but when I laid the case down and left the res standing and ran the pump I heard the water trickle and drip inside the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I got water all through my PSU (dont ask) but it was off at the time with no power connected, suggestions on how to save it?
> 
> I'm really having no luck with this setup


Called it.

Pull the fittings and file the ends...or use a spacer ring.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Me again lol
> 
> So I think I finally found the real problem... my GPU block, I think the threads are do long on the barbs and plugs, I still need to rip my loop apart and make 100% but when I laid the case down and left the res standing and ran the pump I heard the water trickle and drip inside the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I got water all through my PSU (dont ask) but it was off at the time with no power connected, suggestions on how to save it?
> 
> I'm really having no luck with this setup


trick is drying it out properly I have used my oven set on 50°c for a drier before as long as you spilled distilled you will be fine I have seen people do a lot worse to computer components and survive


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Called it.
> 
> Pull the fittings and file the ends...or use a spacer ring.


HAHA hey we were both wrong, I just pulled the top of the block of and triple checked (even got my mum to check) the barbs and plugs dont block the flow at all, even screwed into there tightest they still line up right

I have no idea what the hell is wrong with my loop, I'm gonna rip it completely apart over the weekend and test each part in series, I am starting to think its either my CPU block some how (seeing the flow seems to drop off after it and it was pretty badly damaged from my old loop) or my pump (but it feels like the flows pretty strong still)



Spoiler: Warning: Incoming rage / rant



This it really starting to piss me off, I've ripped apart and drained this thing 4 times in the last 2 weeks and it still wont work for some spastic reason

I've tried everything everyones suggested and this stupid thing still doesnt wanna run right, I'm almost ready to go AIO cooling and be done with it












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> trick is drying it out properly I have used my oven set on 50°c for a drier before as long as you spilled distilled you will be fine I have seen people do a lot worse to computer components and survive
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks, it was just distilled, I was thinking of ripping it completely apart to dry it but really cant be bothered (see rant)


----------



## Kommz13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> HWL SR-2 rads are out for purchase now I see.
> 
> I will test one out real soon, almost home now so Mayhems Havoc write-up is the first thing to take care of. In the meantime:


sexy, but they arent listed on their website yet??
also, whats the difference with nemesis gts??


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> trick is drying it out properly I have used my oven set on 50°c for a drier before as long as you spilled distilled you will be fine I have seen people do a lot worse to computer components and survive


Is this "How to clean the motherboard the Kentucky way"?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kommz13*
> 
> sexy, but they arent listed on their website yet??
> also, whats the difference with nemesis gts??


http://www.hardwarelabs.com/sr2/index.php

As far as the second one, I will not know for sure till testing is done.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Damn, why couldn't they include a bottom drain port in this new one so I can finally get rid of my last Alphacool rad. I want a SR2 480 to replace a UT 60 but giving up the drain port for that beautiful finish will be a touch call. Plus the pricing is a bit eye watering


Yeah man, I am with you there. I was talking to HWL about this and there maybe some limited multiport versions of this. Hopefully that comes out and gets justified in sales so more multiport rad options are available.

@Gabrielzm Just saw your other question above. Pretty sure it is white logo on black matte finish only.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Those sr2's are rather pretty! Any word if they're doing thin ones as well, or just the 60ish mm thick?

EDIT: Was on mobile when I wrote this, on my desktop I was able to look into such. Aww, just 60mm's so far, but interesting to see they're 6mm thicker than the SR-1's. On the flipside though, there only was the one side for the SR-1's. I'm ~VERY~ curious to see how these are performance wise, especially against the Nemesis GTX's at low to medium fan speeds ^_^


----------



## iBored

Ok.. a little ticked. I just added a new 480 sr-1 to my arsenal. @geggeg are you gonna have an sr-1 for comparison?


----------



## VSG

I got a 360mm version so can't add it to the quad rad roundup. I will get a couple of more 360mm rads from PPC (yay for Thanksgiving discount) to provide context, and possibly use in a test bench build once I get back to building the TX10-D.

The SR-1 I have is from the previous owner of the TX10 and was in a 560mm version, so won't be a comparison material. But this is liquid flow rate optimized as opposed to the SR-1 which was airflow optimized.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I got a 360mm version so can't add it to the quad rad roundup. I will get a couple of more 360mm rads from PPC (yay for Thanksgiving discount) to provide context, and possibly use in a test bench build once I get back to building the TX10-D.
> 
> The SR-1 I have is from the previous owner of the TX10 and was in a 560mm version, so won't be a comparison material. But this is liquid flow rate optimized as opposed to the SR-1 which was airflow optimized.


Could you get an Aquacomputer AMS 480 with Copper fins as well? I would really like to see how those compare to other radiators.







I have a couple on the way so the faster the better


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Could you get an Aquacomputer AMS 480 with Copper fins as well? I would really like to see how those compare to other radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a couple on the way so the faster the better


Martin tested the 360mm version here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/12/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-ams-copper-360-radiator/

It wasn't exceptional then, so I don't expect it to perform miracles performance wise. Looks are great though! It's too expensive for me to justify buying it just for looks, I am afraid.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Could you get an Aquacomputer AMS 480 with Copper fins as well? I would really like to see how those compare to other radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a couple on the way so the faster the better


My understanding is that the AMS rads don't perform much better than any of the standard quality radiators available on the market but they have the massive advantage of being completely Flux free. Plug and play. I've also been told and read that the copper fins don't perform much better than the alu versions. Copper fins are gorgeous though imo.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Martin tested the 360mm version here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/12/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-ams-copper-360-radiator/
> 
> It wasn't exceptional then, so I don't expect it to perform miracles performance wise. Looks are great though! It's too expensive for me to justify buying it just for looks, I am afraid.


Yeah, I agree. I would rather see how the new Radical model does anyway.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Getting there. I didn't have any 2000 grit sandpaper so I will have to go find some tomorrow. Also it's kind of hard to take pics at night but it's looking pretty good atm. I also have a new build log up if anyone is interested:


Did you read my guide? How look of a grit did you go with the sandpaper?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Martin tested the 360mm version here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/12/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-ams-copper-360-radiator/
> 
> It wasn't exceptional then, so I don't expect it to perform miracles performance wise. Looks are great though! It's too expensive for me to justify buying it just for looks, I am afraid.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I agree. I would rather see how the new Radical model does anyway.
Click to expand...

This.

The AMS is a known performer,that Radical rad is very much on my list.


----------



## VSG

Stren and Hardwaremaxx have the radical rads (among plenty others I bet). That's another looker, innit?


----------



## Vintage

The finish on those new HWL rads is really nice. I really like their offerings atm.

I assume they are 60 mm thick, correct?


----------



## ledzepp3

I remember the SR-1 being 54mm thick (or around there), so it's a pretty safe bet to say that they're going to be around that thickness.

-Zepp


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I remember the SR-1 being 54mm thick (or around there), so it's a pretty safe bet to say that they're going to be around that thickness.
> 
> -Zepp


60mm thick





All right now back to work for me. Got a ton of stuff to test and put out in here over the next 3 days!


----------



## Gabrielzm

I will wait for the sr2 with more ports then...I shall resist.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 60mm thick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All right now back to work for me. Got a ton of stuff to test and put out in here over the next 3 days!


. I want this love the look take my money. Wish rads came in more colors and even like shoes you where you can pay extra to have it customized at the manf. I think if a co. Did that they would have a big market and probably could hire one or two guys to do all the custom paint or features on the rads


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 60mm thick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All right now back to work for me. Got a ton of stuff to test and put out in here over the next 3 days!
> 
> 
> 
> . I want this love the look take my money. Wish rads came in more colors and even like shoes you where you can pay extra to have it customized at the manf. I think if a co. Did that they would have a big market and probably could hire one or two guys to do all the custom paint or features on the rads
Click to expand...

You want something done to a rad then PM me....I like a bit of rad work....


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You want something done to a rad then PM me....I like a bit of rad work....


Going to have to wait till after Christmas bc of money but I will contact you. Thank you


----------



## lowfat

The big logo on the SR2 really bothers me. I liked how clean their original rads were.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The big logo on the SR2 really bothers me. I liked how clean their original rads were.


At least the logo is half decent.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> At least the logo is half decent.....


I concur. I am considering switching from Darkside Rads on my next build to these because that Black Ice Logo is pretty sweet


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> At least the logo is half decent.....


No as sweet as those logos on the Lumo's rads







lol


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Did you read my guide? How look of a grit did you go with the sandpaper?


Yes, I didn't have the same increments that you used but it seemed to work fine. So far I've gone; 240, 600, 1000, 1200 and used polish to see if I could make it look good without the 2000, but its not exactly where I want it to be yet. One thing I did fine hard to sanding the inside channels of the block. I've been using cotton buds with sandpaper attached to the end because it's impossible to get my fingers in there. Is there any better way to do it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somerandombloke*
> 
> I would recommend the COUGAR CF-V12H Vortex. I have 3 of them and 3 of the Cougars HDB LED fans and all 6 of them are much quieter than the 3 CM Sickleflow fans I used previously.


Tnx, the cougars have been recommended quite a bit. Though I'm going to keep the sp120 hp's after watching the coolingtechnique vids. @7v, Its pushing a bit more pressure and at a slight less deci vs the Enermax twister pressure. Plus, I won't have to deal with pwm and if I could do 12 fans of the cpu header. May do a custom voltage controller or just keep them at 7v.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> The AMS is a known performer,that Radical rad is very much on my list.


The AMS performce a bit better than the Radical...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Right before I screw around with my loop anymore I got a couple of questions

1. Can a damaged CPU block stop the flow altogether?

2. Should I change my drain line setup to the outlet? (currently on an inlet)

3. Is the Bitspower pressure valve thing worth getting for my top rad to release the air?

4. How can I tell if the pump and or CPU block is causing my flow problem?

Thanks









Sorry to keep being a pest


----------



## Jakewat

Ok need a little input here. I am currently playing around with my fittings setup for my drain valve and temp sensor ans this is one of the setups I have so far. Sorry about the pic quality but to explain in brief, There are 3 rotary extenders to enable be to rotate the valve away and make it hidden, and the 90's are to line the run up better with the rad inlet ( which needs to be the bottom one ). My only concern is having this many bends near the pump.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps93011dc4.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps91603ca3.jpg.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Lemme try this again...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I keep pointing out the benefits of Yate Loons. You can get them ~$5 each at every flavor from PPCs' when you forgo their sleeving option. They do pretty well even if they aren't Radiator fans. I run their 20mm units on my HWLabs Stealth 360 atm but will be upgrading to Radiator Fans sometime in the near future since my mod has changed. They may be sleeved bearing units but as cheap as they are I'm not sweating replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the fans have to be PWM? Not sure so knowing that YLs' aren't PWM, I should consider that a deal breaker or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still no answer for my earlier question about series radiator set paralel and cavitation? Maybe just got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is this was you have in mind?
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/
> 
> if so there are some interesting results there if you have not read it yet.
Click to expand...

I want to run two 360s parallel to each other but not sandwiching fans, in Intake w/o an intake fan to blow between them. There will be about 6 inches of space between the two bare surfaces. Would this setup result in negative cavitation in an all intake setup?

My apologies for multiposting this but my phone likes to ghettotext at times.

~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Right before I screw around with my loop anymore I got a couple of questions
> 
> 1. Can a damaged CPU block stop the flow altogether?
> 
> 2. Should I change my drain line setup to the outlet? (currently on an inlet)
> 
> 3. Is the Bitspower pressure valve thing worth getting for my top rad to release the air?
> 
> 4. How can I tell if the pump and or CPU block is causing my flow problem?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to keep being a pest


Aussie, the best advice I could give is test everything out of the box before assembling again. Just take the blocks, reservoir, pump and rads and test the components in a loop to see what is going on. That way you can be sure everything is working. You can even add one component at a time: first reservoir/pump only. then add cpu block. then add radiators and so on.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Aussie, the best advice I could give is test everything out of the box before assembling again. Just take the blocks, reservoir, pump and rads and test the components in a loop to see what is going on. That way you can be sure everything is working. You can even add one component at a time: first reservoir/pump only. then add cpu block. then add radiators and so on.


Yeah I am gonna do that to make 100% sure, was gonna do it today but its 35° inside with fans going
















But is it possible for a CPU block to be damaged enough to stop the flow going out of it?


----------



## emsj86

before with two blue 30cm Icemodz leds.sorry for the phone pictures I need to get a decent camera for cheap. Black Friday is coming so that helps


----------



## emsj86

after with the white Icemodz led. Sucks I ordered two and only got one. But I'm sure he'll send the other I like this look a lot better. I need the second led in order to get light on the ek clear plexi supremacy evo


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Aussie, the best advice I could give is test everything out of the box before assembling again. Just take the blocks, reservoir, pump and rads and test the components in a loop to see what is going on. That way you can be sure everything is working. You can even add one component at a time: first reservoir/pump only. then add cpu block. then add radiators and so on.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I am gonna do that to make 100% sure, was gonna do it today but its 35° inside with fans going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But is it possible for a CPU block to be damaged enough to stop the flow going out of it?
Click to expand...

Assuming you've taken ur block apart, u may have put it back together incorrectly. That would certainly impede ur flow negatively.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Assuming you've taken ur block apart, u may have put it back together incorrectly. That would certainly impede ur flow negatively.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah IT DIVA said the same thing and I checked, I had put it together wrong so I fixed it and tried it again but still the same problem, the flow drops off coming from the CPU block

My block did get damaged from that algae problem I had a few weeks ago



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



How it was


How it is (nickel came off)


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lemme try this again...
> I want to run two 360s parallel to each other but not sandwiching fans, in Intake w/o an intake fan to blow between them. There will be about 6 inches of space between the two bare surfaces. Would this setup result in negative cavitation in an all intake setup?
> 
> My apologies for multiposting this but my phone likes to ghettotext at times.
> 
> ~Ceadder


I feel like the word you're looking for is negative pressure? I think a diagram is necessary here or I'm just way overtired.. Cavitation refers to the sudden vaporization of water particles when put under pressure by an impellor, prop, etc. and this damages the prop/impellor.

Do you mean parallel airflow or parallel coolant flow, or parallel physical orientation?


----------



## Ceadderman

Paralel in vertical orientation like a two tier bridge to the moon. Consideriing that both intakes will fire into each other, cavitation should be the correct term and being that my setup will be 1 top and two side 360 radiators and all intake that should be positive(?)

I am only going to run intake, to control dust intake.

~Ceadder


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah IT DIVA said the same thing and I checked, I had put it together wrong so I fixed it and tried it again but still the same problem, the flow drops off coming from the CPU block
> 
> My block did get damaged from that algae problem I had a few weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> How it was
> 
> 
> How it is (nickel came off)


Algae will not strip plating off of a block. There looks to be a more serious problem.

How far back was the original posts of that particular problem?


----------



## pc-illiterate

these are the pics @DaaQ


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Paralel in vertical orientation like a two tier bridge to the moon. Consideriing that both intakes will fire into each other, cavitation should be the correct term and being that my setup will be 1 top and two side 360 radiators and all intake that should be positive(?)
> 
> I am only going to run intake, to control dust intake.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Cavitation is the formation of vapour cavities in a liquid - i.e. small liquid-free zones ("bubbles" or "voids") - that are the consequence of forces acting upon the liquid. It usually occurs when a liquid is subjected to rapid changes of pressure that cause the formation of cavities where the pressure is relatively low. When subjected to higher pressure, the voids implode and can generate an intense shockwave.

You should be fine as the air'll find a way out. Having an exhaust in between at one end would be more ideal but we aren't dealing with large volumes of air here. Experiment of course, but I don't imagine you'll have any problems. What case, if any, are you using?


----------



## Ceadderman

Try filling the chamber with ketchup, spreading it with your finger even to the top and letting it sit. Periodically check it and you should see the ketchp bubbling. This tells you that the acids are eating away at the algae. Rinse it in the morning. I think the problem is the algae has blocked the fins. You can check with a magnifying glass to confirm my suspicion.









I am extreme modding my 932.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Algae will not strip plating off of a block. There looks to be a more serious problem.
> 
> How far back was the original posts of that particular problem?


Heres the original post about my block, it was algae, plasticizer and something that looked and felt like rust...

On a side not I ripped my loop apart and found water in almost every block and rad







makes me wonder if it was a massive air lock?

Still gonna test it all properly later to see if its the pump or CPU block

Edit, Well I tested it out of my rig and it ran without a problem... so... what now?


----------



## Jakewat

Finished sanding and polishing my top and now it's back together and fitted








http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps5d5adcd0.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps25c8cd88.jpg.html


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Right before I screw around with my loop anymore I got a couple of questions
> 
> 1. Can a damaged CPU block stop the flow altogether?
> 
> 2. Should I change my drain line setup to the outlet? (currently on an inlet)
> 
> 3. Is the Bitspower pressure valve thing worth getting for my top rad to release the air?
> 
> 4. How can I tell if the pump and or CPU block is causing my flow problem?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to keep being a pest


1: Not likely at all. Really, the only way you're going to stop flow is if there's a blockage. Those jet plates on the blocks can get clogged with algae, additionally, I suppose a pump could be clogged too.

2. Always have a fill port and a drain port, separate of each other.

3. Not a bad idea. I know Aquacomputer has a membrane version too that you press on to release built up pressure.

4. What kind of tubing are you using? If soft tubing (not copper/acrylic, etc), then you should be able to squeeze down on the tubing after the point of blockage. You shouldn't be able to squeeze it if it's filled with water.

What kind of fluid were you using?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Algae will not strip plating off of a block. There looks to be a more serious problem.
> 
> How far back was the original posts of that particular problem?
> 
> 
> 
> Heres the original post about my block, it was algae, plasticizer and something that looked and felt like rust...
> 
> On a side not I ripped my loop apart and found water in almost every block and rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> makes me wonder if it was a massive air lock?
> 
> Still gonna test it all properly later to see if its the pump or CPU block
> 
> Edit, Well I tested it out of my rig and it ran without a problem... so... what now?
Click to expand...

Be sure to put it back together with a Tee and a cap coming out of the rear rad in the line goes back to the res.

That way you can loosen the cap to bleed the air and tighten it when water starts pouring out.

If you keep the drain line on the res inlet, be sure to loosen the cap a tad so it fills with water and doesn't create an air pocket at the pump's inlet port that can't fill with water for the pump to pull.

D.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> 1: Not likely at all. Really, the only way you're going to stop flow is if there's a blockage. Those jet plates on the blocks can get clogged with algae, additionally, I suppose a pump could be clogged too.
> 
> 2. Always have a fill port and a drain port, separate of each other.
> 
> 3. Not a bad idea. I know Aquacomputer has a membrane version too that you press on to release built up pressure.
> 
> 4. What kind of tubing are you using? If soft tubing (not copper/acrylic, etc), then you should be able to squeeze down on the tubing after the point of blockage. You shouldn't be able to squeeze it if it's filled with water.
> 
> What kind of fluid were you using?


I ripped the whole CPU block apart and it looked clean, I'll check it again before I put it back together tho maybe even give it a quick scrub to

Ah ok, I guess I'll just keep my drain on the inlet then, I fill from the top of the res tho

Yeah I seen the Aquacomputer one and the Bitspower one, probably will go the Bitspower just so everything matches

I'm using Norprene so its more then soft enough to squeeze (even with water in it), which I was doing but it wasnt helping at all

Using standard distilled with a killcoil, no point in me going dye or anything seeing everything on my loop isnt see through apart from the res which is smoked anyway








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be sure to put it back together with a Tee and a cap coming out of the rear rad in the line goes back to the res.
> 
> That way you can loosen the cap to bleed the air and tighten it when water starts pouring out.
> 
> If you keep the drain line on the res inlet, be sure to loosen the cap a tad so it fills with water and doesn't create an air pocket at the pump's inlet port that can't fill with water for the pump to pull.
> 
> D.


I was gonna using one of the air valve things on my top rad in the line that goes to the front one (seeing that seems to be where the airs getting caught) once water starts going the the front rad I dont have to much of a problem

I do loosing the drain line but it seems pretty good most of the time, water comes out straight away, I even tried having a small container there so the pump could pull water from it and the res that didnt do much tho

Two more questions, the Bitspower D5 Pump Mod Kit how in the hell are you ment to keep the holes lined up with the dial? & with the Bitspower pressure valve thing does it only let air out or does some water come out to?

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> 1: Not likely at all. Really, the only way you're going to stop flow is if there's a blockage. Those jet plates on the blocks can get clogged with algae, additionally, I suppose a pump could be clogged too.
> 
> 2. Always have a fill port and a drain port, separate of each other.
> 
> 3. Not a bad idea. I know Aquacomputer has a membrane version too that you press on to release built up pressure.
> 
> 4. What kind of tubing are you using? If soft tubing (not copper/acrylic, etc), then you should be able to squeeze down on the tubing after the point of blockage. You shouldn't be able to squeeze it if it's filled with water.
> 
> What kind of fluid were you using?
> 
> 
> 
> I ripped the whole CPU block apart and it looked clean, I'll check it again before I put it back together tho maybe even give it a quick scrub to
> 
> Ah ok, I guess I'll just keep my drain on the inlet then, I fill from the top of the res tho
> 
> Yeah I seen the Aquacomputer one and the Bitspower one, probably will go the Bitspower just so everything matches
> 
> I'm using Norprene so its more then soft enough to squeeze (even with water in it), which I was doing but it wasnt helping at all
> 
> Using standard distilled with a killcoil, no point in me going dye or anything seeing everything on my loop isnt see through apart from the res which is smoked anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be sure to put it back together with a Tee and a cap coming out of the rear rad in the line goes back to the res.
> 
> That way you can loosen the cap to bleed the air and tighten it when water starts pouring out.
> 
> If you keep the drain line on the res inlet, be sure to loosen the cap a tad so it fills with water and doesn't create an air pocket at the pump's inlet port that can't fill with water for the pump to pull.
> 
> D.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was gonna using one of the air valve things on my top rad in the line that goes to the front one (seeing that seems to be where the airs getting caught) once water starts going the the front rad I dont have to much of a problem
> 
> I do loosing the drain line but it seems pretty good most of the time, water comes out straight away, I even tried having a small container there so the pump could pull water from it and the res that didnt do much tho
> 
> Two more questions, the Bitspower D5 Pump Mod Kit how in the hell are you ment to keep the holes lined up with the dial? & with the Bitspower pressure valve thing does it only let air out or does some water come out to?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

If you use one of those air thingies, be sure it's at the highest point in the loop to be on the safe side. . . but your loop doesn't have a port at the high point, so I'd pass on that gizmo.

You want the air bleed at the highest point in the loop, if it's possible . . . like if the top rad has ports on top . . .

But since yours doesn't, having a bleed point at the end of the loop at least lets the water push the air out ahead of it as it fills the first time . . .

That's why I suggest the T and cap on the rear rad outlet port.

On the dress up kit . . .

Push the back down hard as you turn the ring, when you can't keep the back from turning with the ring any more, use a large pair of needle nose pliers with tape on each of the nose pieces like a pin spanner, to back up the back plate as it rotates to where it pinches the wires, and then tighten a little more, and back it up again. Rinse - repeat . . .

It doesn't have to be brutally tight, . . . I'm and old lady and I never had one leak yet.

D.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you use one of those air thingies, be sure it's at the highest point in the loop to be on the safe side.
> 
> You want the air bleed at the highest point in the loop, if it's possible . . . like if the top rad has ports on top . . .
> 
> But since yours doesn't, having a bleed point at the end of the loop at least lets the water push the air out ahead of it as it fills the first time . . .
> 
> That's why I suggest the T and cap on the rear rad outlet port.
> 
> On the dress up kit . . .
> 
> Push the back down hard as you turn the ring, when you can't keep the back from turning with the ring any more, use a large pair of needle nose pliers with tape on each of the nose pieces like a pin spanner, to back up the back plate as it rotates to where it pinches the wires, and then tighten a little more, and back it up again. Rinse - repeat . . .
> 
> It doesn't have to be brutally tight, . . . I'm and old lady and I never had one leak yet.
> 
> D.


Im using one of those bitspower air release valves on my bitspower res (just below my top rad) & it seems to be working great, of course I dont fill the res to top but close. I remember after I initially bled the loop I pushed the button & could hear the air rush out. Pretty cool little air valve.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try filling the chamber with ketchup, spreading it with your finger even to the top and letting it sit. Periodically check it and you should see the ketchp bubbling. This tells you that the acids are eating away at the algae. Rinse it in the morning. I think the problem is the algae has blocked the fins. You can check with a magnifying glass to confirm my suspicion.


Algae deposits can usually be removed with a tiny bit of dish soap, some hot water, and a soft cloth. If the deposits are encrusted, then just use a more abrasive cloth or wire wool.

While acid is fine on copper, it's not on nickel plating. So I'm not sure why, four weeks ago, you wrote to @Aussiejuggalo "I've got a copper block too" and then told him to fill his nickel block up with ketchup.

So Aussie does now have a copper block, because of the advice to clean with acid.



When cleaning nickel, use only water or something non-acidic like Silvo


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try filling the chamber with ketchup, spreading it with your finger even to the top and letting it sit. Periodically check it and you should see the ketchp bubbling. This tells you that the acids are eating away at the algae. Rinse it in the morning. I think the problem is the algae has blocked the fins. You can check with a magnifying glass to confirm my suspicion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Algae deposits can usually be removed with a tiny bit of dish soap, some hot water, and a soft cloth. If the deposits are encrusted, then just use a more abrasive cloth or wire wool.
> 
> While acid is fine on copper, it's not on nickel plating. So I'm not sure why, four weeks ago, you wrote to @Aussiejuggalo "I've got a copper block too" and then told him to fill his nickel block up with ketchup.
> 
> So Aussie does now have a copper block, because of the advice to clean with acid.
> 
> 
> 
> When cleaning nickel, use only water or something non-acidic like Silvo
Click to expand...

Why do people still insist on acid cleaning? Even after EK and AquaC both making statements in this thread saying its not advised......

However,I think the damage was already done WiSK.


----------



## electro2u

Oh ketchup is acidic...


----------



## emsj86

Our the xspc temp sensors any good. Any recommendations for temp sensors. I just want one on the outlet of my pump at my bottom rad with my drain mink valve on the other side of a 4 way valve


----------



## VSG

Yeah they are all mostly the same, best to pair it up with their own display unit if you want to be sure. I believe it uses a standard 10k thermistor sensor.


----------



## Ragsters

Can anyone halp me find more information about the new Bitspower Reservoir?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you use one of those air thingies, be sure it's at the highest point in the loop to be on the safe side. . . but your loop doesn't have a port at the high point, so I'd pass on that gizmo.
> 
> You want the air bleed at the highest point in the loop, if it's possible . . . like if the top rad has ports on top . . .
> 
> But since yours doesn't, having a bleed point at the end of the loop at least lets the water push the air out ahead of it as it fills the first time . . .
> 
> That's why I suggest the T and cap on the rear rad outlet port.
> 
> On the dress up kit . . .
> 
> Push the back down hard as you turn the ring, when you can't keep the back from turning with the ring any more, use a large pair of needle nose pliers with tape on each of the nose pieces like a pin spanner, to back up the back plate as it rotates to where it pinches the wires, and then tighten a little more, and back it up again. Rinse - repeat . . .
> 
> It doesn't have to be brutally tight, . . . I'm and old lady and I never had one leak yet.
> 
> D.


Thanks, I'll have to play around a bit while everythings out of my rig and see if

The pressure valve is a last resort, I'd either get one and stick it on my back rad or get 2 and stick it on both rads

I still dont understand why I'm having a problem this time when my first build was fine








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im using one of those bitspower air release valves on my bitspower res (just below my top rad) & it seems to be working great, of course I dont fill the res to top but close. I remember after I initially bled the loop I pushed the button & could hear the air rush out. Pretty cool little air valve.


Nice







, does it let water out to or is it just air?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Algae deposits can usually be removed with a tiny bit of dish soap, some hot water, and a soft cloth. If the deposits are encrusted, then just use a more abrasive cloth or wire wool.
> 
> While acid is fine on copper, it's not on nickel plating. So I'm not sure why, four weeks ago, you wrote to @Aussiejuggalo "I've got a copper block too" and then told him to fill his nickel block up with ketchup.
> 
> So Aussie does now have a copper block, because of the advice to clean with acid.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When cleaning nickel, use only water or something non-acidic like Silvo


Remember tho I tried everything to get rid of that crap, soap, vinegar, bicarb and vinegar etc I ended up going Silvo and it worked but the plating hard already started to come off, it started coming off the soap and a soft cloth...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why do people still insist on acid cleaning? Even after EK and AquaC both making statements in this thread saying its not advised......
> 
> However,I think the damage was already done WiSK.


I tried not to go to really harsh stuff until the gentle stuff didnt work and I also didnt use the harsher stuff for very long, normally less then 10mins, it took close to 10 hours to clean my block

I honestly dont think it was just algae there must of been something else, if you look closely at all the small dots of copper showing through you can see somethings eaten into the copper slightly, theres small dips in it









I wish I had a macro lens to take better pics to show what I mean


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try filling the chamber with ketchup, spreading it with your finger even to the top and letting it sit. Periodically check it and you should see the ketchp bubbling. This tells you that the acids are eating away at the algae. Rinse it in the morning. I think the problem is the algae has blocked the fins. You can check with a magnifying glass to confirm my suspicion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Algae deposits can usually be removed with a tiny bit of dish soap, some hot water, and a soft cloth. If the deposits are encrusted, then just use a more abrasive cloth or wire wool.
> 
> While acid is fine on copper, it's not on nickel plating. So I'm not sure why, four weeks ago, you wrote to @Aussiejuggalo "I've got a copper block too" and then told him to fill his nickel block up with ketchup.
> 
> So Aussie does now have a copper block, because of the advice to clean with acid.
> 
> 
> 
> When cleaning nickel, use only water or something non-acidic like Silvo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why do people still insist on acid cleaning? Even after EK and AquaC both making statements in this thread saying its not advised......
> 
> However,I think the damage was already done WiSK.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Oh ketchup is acidic...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you use one of those air thingies, be sure it's at the highest point in the loop to be on the safe side. . . but your loop doesn't have a port at the high point, so I'd pass on that gizmo.
> 
> You want the air bleed at the highest point in the loop, if it's possible . . . like if the top rad has ports on top . . .
> 
> But since yours doesn't, having a bleed point at the end of the loop at least lets the water push the air out ahead of it as it fills the first time . . .
> 
> That's why I suggest the T and cap on the rear rad outlet port.
> 
> On the dress up kit . . .
> 
> Push the back down hard as you turn the ring, when you can't keep the back from turning with the ring any more, use a large pair of needle nose pliers with tape on each of the nose pieces like a pin spanner, to back up the back plate as it rotates to where it pinches the wires, and then tighten a little more, and back it up again. Rinse - repeat . . .
> 
> It doesn't have to be brutally tight, . . . I'm and old lady and I never had one leak yet.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll have to play around a bit while everythings out of my rig and see if
> 
> The pressure valve is a last resort, I'd either get one and stick it on my back rad or get 2 and stick it on both rads
> 
> I still dont understand why I'm having a problem this time when my first build was fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im using one of those bitspower air release valves on my bitspower res (just below my top rad) & it seems to be working great, of course I dont fill the res to top but close. I remember after I initially bled the loop I pushed the button & could hear the air rush out. Pretty cool little air valve.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , does it let water out to or is it just air?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Algae deposits can usually be removed with a tiny bit of dish soap, some hot water, and a soft cloth. If the deposits are encrusted, then just use a more abrasive cloth or wire wool.
> 
> While acid is fine on copper, it's not on nickel plating. So I'm not sure why, four weeks ago, you wrote to @Aussiejuggalo "I've got a copper block too" and then told him to fill his nickel block up with ketchup.
> 
> So Aussie does now have a copper block, because of the advice to clean with acid.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When cleaning nickel, use only water or something non-acidic like Silvo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Remember tho I tried everything to get rid of that crap, soap, vinegar, bicarb and vinegar etc I ended up going Silvo and it worked but the plating hard already started to come off, it started coming off the soap and a soft cloth...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why do people still insist on acid cleaning? Even after EK and AquaC both making statements in this thread saying its not advised......
> 
> However,I think the damage was already done WiSK.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I tried not to go to really harsh stuff until the gentle stuff didnt work and I also didnt use the harsher stuff for very long, normally less then 10mins, it took close to 10 hours to clean my block
> 
> I honestly dont think it was just algae there must of been something else, if you look closely at all the small dots of copper showing through you can see somethings eaten into the copper slightly, theres small dips in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I had a macro lens to take better pics to show what I mean
Click to expand...

Firstly, I believe that me an Aussie somehow got our wires crossed. I asked if it was copper and think that somebody said yes(don't recall whom or where the exact conversation took place). However that said, Ketchup while acidic should not harm even a nickel finish block imho. Yeah it contains two Acidics(Tomatoes & Vinegar) but I doubt that either one would be so caustic to the plating since I've used it to clean silver plated items. Rinsing thoroughly with distilled should render the PH level inert. If you can run a biocide through a nickel block with mixed metals, it shouldn't be an issue. I'm certainly no professional plater, but I've never encountered an instance where the plated item I've cleaned has lost sections of plating due to my method of cleaning it. I could be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time an likely it won't be the last.









2ndly as the block was likely damaged Ketchup likely would not damage it further and should clear out any of the tarnished/algaefied spots in the fins. Which is why I would again suggest using it.







If Bneg and other more experienced WC'ers don't recommend it, then I defer to them. Just don't see how Ketchup can remove the plating as it starts to harden when left out on any surface. Maybe this is what causes a block to lose its plating?









~Ceadder


----------



## ThornTwist

I think I almost get to participate in this thread more. I have a build log up. Its in my sig. check it out if you want. I've never done a custom loop before, but it should be a fun process going from basic to advanced.


----------



## emsj86

Does anyone have the ek blue gpu backplate for the 780s. Can't find any true pictures of how it looks in real life. I want to know if it matches the corsair sp120 blue fan rings or blue berry pastel


----------



## stickg1

Anyone have some nice recent build log pics? Kind of in a slump, need a morale boost!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone have some nice recent build log pics? Kind of in a slump, need a morale boost!




Water cooling to come around January when BMO will get the 5ghz 3570k and a pair or 7970s that are in my current rig.

Link to the build Log here on OCN


----------



## wermad

I has no pics but I also need some motivation as im waiting for stuff. 900D + three Monsta 480s, coming soon. Still 900d was trashed by ups, replacement not until a couple of weeks







. Have four sp120 hp's and eight on their way. Well, that's all I h ave for now. Oh wait, 290 just came in and second on its way. Need to find me some blocks


----------



## stickg1

That was cute, thanks for that. I ended up liquidating most of my gear to pay bills. Some family health issues have kept me working less then full time. All I really need is a CPU upgrade and GPU upgrade to be back in business.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone have some nice recent build log pics? Kind of in a slump, need a morale boost!


I just put some pics up in my build log.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Anyone have some nice recent build log pics? Kind of in a slump, need a morale boost!


Working on cable management right now since I am waiting for a GPU block to be released.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Working on cable management right now since I am waiting for a GPU block to be released.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks so good that it should be illegal...


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , does it let water out to or is it just air


Just air. If the res was completely full up to the valve it could possibly leak a little I suppose but I leave a little space in the res


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Just air. If the res was completely full up to the valve it could possibly leak a little I suppose but I leave a little space in the res


Ah ok, I'm gonna have mine off my top rad so I guess it'll leak a bit, better then trying to screw barbs back up (how I flooded my PSU







)


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Heres the original post about my block, it was algae, plasticizer and something that looked and felt like rust...
> 
> On a side not I ripped my loop apart and found water in almost every block and rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> makes me wonder if it was a massive air lock?
> 
> Still gonna test it all properly later to see if its the pump or CPU block
> 
> Edit, Well I tested it out of my rig and it ran without a problem... so... what now?


I would start the cleaning process again this time hook the radiators to the water main flushing both ways half an hour each way, that would confirm you have good flow or sludge/corrosion blockage in the radiators.
But then again looking at the block again I would suggest all new radiators it is impossible to clean properly without removing a tank end.
To me it looks like all purely corrosion (IMO without a lab diagnostic analyses we are all guessing) which in turn would mean the inside of your rads will be the same condition as your block.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I would start the cleaning process again this time hook the radiators to the water main flushing both ways half an hour each way, that would confirm you have good flow or sludge/corrosion blockage in the radiators.
> But then again looking at the block again I would suggest all new radiators it is impossible to clean properly without removing a tank end.
> To me it looks like all purely corrosion (IMO without a lab diagnostic analyses we are all guessing) which in turn would mean the inside of your rads will be the same condition as your block.


I'll flush the rads again when I have time, might just use the hose then a rinse with distilled

New rads are expensive lol and I dont think I can get the AX240 locally anymore









If it was corrosion wouldnt there of been crap in the water when I drained the loop?

Edit, if it is / was corrosion I dunno what the hell could of caused it, I tried to pick everything carefully

Was using XSPC barbs (black nickel), Bitspower barbs (black "sparkle") the AX rads, XSPC D5, Bitspower top & res, EK Supremacy full nickel, Primochill LRT Advanced, Liquid Utopia and straight distilled


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Some Night Shots. Love the Bitfenix Spectre Pro Fans. Added the Mirrors at the bottom of the Parvum to show the fluid on the Underside of the GPU Block.

Hope Yall Like.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Working on cable management right now since I am waiting for a GPU block to be released.


shouldn't the psu be... off?

or did you just turn on for a few seconds to take the pic?


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> shouldn't the psu be... off?
> 
> or did you just turn on for a few seconds to take the pic?


now you mention it I was taken back with that awesome cabling I didn't notice the fan guard on the PSU is also gone
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some Night Shots. Love the Bitfenix Spectre Pro Fans. Added the Mirrors at the bottom of the Parvum to show the fluid on the Underside of the GPU Block.
> 
> Hope Yall Like.


simply beautiful kind of wondering how the heat spreaders fell off the ram


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly, I believe that me an Aussie somehow got our wires crossed. I asked if it was copper and think that somebody said yes(don't recall whom or where the exact conversation took place). However that said, Ketchup while acidic should not harm even a nickel finish block imho. Yeah it contains two Acidics(Tomatoes & Vinegar) but I doubt that either one would be so caustic to the plating since I've used it to clean silver plated items. Rinsing thoroughly with distilled should render the PH level inert. If you can run a biocide through a nickel block with mixed metals, it shouldn't be an issue. I'm certainly no professional plater, but I've never encountered an instance where the plated item I've cleaned has lost sections of plating due to my method of cleaning it. I could be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time an likely it won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2ndly as the block was likely damaged Ketchup likely would not damage it further and should clear out any of the tarnished/algaefied spots in the fins. Which is why I would again suggest using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If Bneg and other more experienced WC'ers don't recommend it, then I defer to them. Just don't see how Ketchup can remove the plating as it starts to harden when left out on any surface. Maybe this is what causes a block to lose its plating?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


/cheers
Nice post Caedder! Very humble and thoughtful. REP+


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Firstly, I believe that me an Aussie somehow got our wires crossed. I asked if it was copper and think that somebody said yes(don't recall whom or where the exact conversation took place). However that said, Ketchup while acidic should not harm even a nickel finish block imho. Yeah it contains two Acidics(Tomatoes & Vinegar) but I doubt that either one would be so caustic to the plating since I've used it to clean silver plated items. Rinsing thoroughly with distilled should render the PH level inert. If you can run a biocide through a nickel block with mixed metals, it shouldn't be an issue. I'm certainly no professional plater, but I've never encountered an instance where the plated item I've cleaned has lost sections of plating due to my method of cleaning it. I could be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time an likely it won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2ndly as the block was likely damaged Ketchup likely would not damage it further and should clear out any of the tarnished/algaefied spots in the fins. Which is why I would again suggest using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If Bneg and other more experienced WC'ers don't recommend it, then I defer to them. Just don't see how Ketchup can remove the plating as it starts to harden when left out on any surface. Maybe this is what causes a block to lose its plating?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If anyone wants to see why you should not mix Nickel and Vinegar or other mild acids

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=15264957&postcount=56
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=15268845&postcount=57
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=15272055&postcount=58

This guy from the Aussie forums just flushed his Aqualis res with diluted Vinegar and the Nickel tube in the centre was permanently damaged.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

See he flushed his res, I just gave my block a quick 20 second scrub with the softest toothbrush I could find before sticking it in hot soapy water (did that twice 10ish mins apart) and the funny thing is the nickel in my block didnt come off till the red crap came off with the Silvo, kinda why I dont think it was just algae in my block


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> shouldn't the psu be... off?
> 
> or did you just turn on for a few seconds to take the pic?


I just spinned the fan before taking the pic.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> now you mention it I was taken back with that awesome cabling I didn't notice the fan guard on the PSU is also gone
> simply beautiful kind of wondering how the heat spreaders fell off the ram


My Brother doesn't take care of his stuff. This computer started out as an Asus Essentio from Best Buy. I have just done what I know how to do to make it look the best but without re-buying parts that were still in working order.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> See he flushed his res, I just gave my block a quick 20 second scrub with the softest toothbrush I could find before sticking it in hot soapy water (did that twice 10ish mins apart) and the funny thing is the nickel in my block didnt come off till the red crap came off with the Silvo, kinda why I dont think it was just algae in my block


It still shows that acidic solvents aren't a good idea to use on nickel. The nickel plating on blocks and other items we use in loops are just a few microns thick.

And you'd be surprised how bad algae can be. I had to scrap a reservoir because nothing would take it off. Not scrubbing, not chemicals, not acids, soap, boiling it... That stuff will eat into the surface and stay there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> See he flushed his res, I just gave my block a quick 20 second scrub with the softest toothbrush I could find before sticking it in hot soapy water (did that twice 10ish mins apart) and the funny thing is the nickel in my block didnt come off till the red crap came off with the Silvo, kinda why I dont think it was just algae in my block
> 
> 
> 
> It still shows that acidic solvents aren't a good idea to use on nickel. *The nickel plating on blocks and other items we use in loops are just a few microns thick.
> *
> And you'd be surprised how bad algae can be. I had to scrap a reservoir because nothing would take it off. Not scrubbing, not chemicals, not acids, soap, boiling it... That stuff will eat into the surface and stay there.
Click to expand...

Exactly.

Its just a cosmetic strike and not a full strike for corrosion resistance,vinegar,for example is not just a mild acid,its Ph2 and is beastmode on metals.

I would be surprised if that was not plasticizer/flux burn as well J,Algae,by itself,should just wash out. Was the damage all on the waterline?


----------



## electro2u

Wow. Even Ketchup is a 3.9 pH... I knew it was acidic somewhere in my 8th grade science mind but I wouldn't have asked myself and just poured it on without this discussion taking place.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> See he flushed his res, I just gave my block a quick 20 second scrub with the softest toothbrush I could find before sticking it in hot soapy water (did that twice 10ish mins apart) and the funny thing is the nickel in my block didnt come off till the red crap came off with the Silvo, kinda why I dont think it was just algae in my block
> 
> 
> 
> It still shows that acidic solvents aren't a good idea to use on nickel. *The nickel plating on blocks and other items we use in loops are just a few microns thick.
> *
> And you'd be surprised how bad algae can be. I had to scrap a reservoir because nothing would take it off. Not scrubbing, not chemicals, not acids, soap, boiling it... That stuff will eat into the surface and stay there.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> Its just a cosmetic strike and not a full strike for corrosion resistance,vinegar,for example is not just a mild acid,its Ph2 and is beastmode on metals.
> 
> I would be surprised if that was not plasticizer/flux burn as well J,Algae,by itself,should just wash out. Was the damage all on the waterline?
Click to expand...

It was within the waterline of the reservoir, yes. I don't think it was plasticizer as I was using top notch Tygon in that build, and had flushed the rads thoroughly prior to that. That's when I used an ethylene glycol based coolant (company name withheld). Hence my hatred for that coolant type now, not to mention it's toxicity to the environment, and its' absolute uselessness in fighting microbes.

Running Mayhems Red/Distilled in my current loop. We'll see how that goes. Since it's all hardline it should be much easier to spot any growth.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Tygon is no measure of quality without the specific tube SKU,it leeches like all the rest except for a few of the medical grades.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, so I am in a bit of a dilemma, kind of bored of the look of the EK-FC Terminal Quad Semi-Parallel and wondering on going with SLI-adapters and the "stock" Terminal that comes with the EK-FC R9 290X. Is there any temperature difference in going from Semi-Parallel to only Parallel? I guess the flow will be better with parallel vs. semi-parallel too, so it is a good decision?


----------



## pc-illiterate

well, it is time to move this



into this



no it isnt my picture but, i dont care. it is this case.

i also get to add



FUN FUN FUN FUN!


----------



## adog12341

Finally got some less-****ty pictures taken and feel confident enough to post here:






What do y'all think?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly, I believe that me an Aussie somehow got our wires crossed. I asked if it was copper and think that somebody said yes(don't recall whom or where the exact conversation took place). However that said, Ketchup while acidic should not harm even a nickel finish block imho. Yeah it contains two Acidics(Tomatoes & Vinegar) but I doubt that either one would be so caustic to the plating since I've used it to clean silver plated items. Rinsing thoroughly with distilled should render the PH level inert. If you can run a biocide through a nickel block with mixed metals, it shouldn't be an issue. I'm certainly no professional plater, but I've never encountered an instance where the plated item I've cleaned has lost sections of plating due to my method of cleaning it. I could be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time an likely it won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2ndly as the block was likely damaged Ketchup likely would not damage it further and should clear out any of the tarnished/algaefied spots in the fins. Which is why I would again suggest using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If Bneg and other more experienced WC'ers don't recommend it, then I defer to them. Just don't see how Ketchup can remove the plating as it starts to harden when left out on any surface. Maybe this is what causes a block to lose its plating?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /cheers
> Nice post Caedder! Very humble and thoughtful. REP+
Click to expand...

Thank you. As said I am no expert and while I still doubt that Ketchup would ruin the finish of any block, others seem to be positive that it will. Will expound further down this response...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Firstly, I believe that me an Aussie somehow got our wires crossed. I asked if it was copper and think that somebody said yes(don't recall whom or where the exact conversation took place). However that said, Ketchup while acidic should not harm even a nickel finish block imho. Yeah it contains two Acidics(Tomatoes & Vinegar) but I doubt that either one would be so caustic to the plating since I've used it to clean silver plated items. Rinsing thoroughly with distilled should render the PH level inert. If you can run a biocide through a nickel block with mixed metals, it shouldn't be an issue. I'm certainly no professional plater, but I've never encountered an instance where the plated item I've cleaned has lost sections of plating due to my method of cleaning it. I could be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time an likely it won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2ndly as the block was likely damaged Ketchup likely would not damage it further and should clear out any of the tarnished/algaefied spots in the fins. Which is why I would again suggest using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If Bneg and other more experienced WC'ers don't recommend it, then I defer to them. Just don't see how Ketchup can remove the plating as it starts to harden when left out on any surface. Maybe this is what causes a block to lose its plating?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone wants to see why you should not mix Nickel and Vinegar or other mild acids
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=15264957&postcount=56
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=15268845&postcount=57
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=15272055&postcount=58
> 
> 
> 
> This guy from the Aussie forums just flushed his Aqualis res with diluted Vinegar and the Nickel tube in the centre was permanently damaged.
Click to expand...

I would NEVER suggest running /flushing vinegar through a loop with metals in it. Even diluted there are too many variables to worry about. We're talking Ketchup here mate. Even the Ph level of Ketchup pales to that of straight Vinegar/Diluted Vinegar. You might just as well use bleach if you're gonna use straight vinegar even in a diluted solution of distilled.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Wow. Even Ketchup is a 3.9 pH... I knew it was acidic somewhere in my 8th grade science mind but I wouldn't have asked myself and just poured it on without this discussion taking place.


Tomatoes = Acidic

Vinegar = Acidic

In either case, that is nothing compared to straight vinegar which is a ph level of 2. Battery acid is a ph level of 0 just to put some clarity on the subject.

A ph level of 3.9 is livable imho seeing as tomato juice has a ph level of 4. I seriously doubt that Ketchup will remove Nickel plating without something more caustic mixed in.









Here is a chart  detailing ph values of different materials.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> It still shows that acidic solvents aren't a good idea to use on nickel. The nickel plating on blocks and other items we use in loops are just a few microns thick.
> 
> And you'd be surprised how bad algae can be. I had to scrap a reservoir because nothing would take it off. Not scrubbing, not chemicals, not acids, soap, boiling it... That stuff will eat into the surface and stay there.


Using any kind of harsh chemical or acid on plating will damage it









I figured it can be bad but can it actually eat through the nickel and into copper?

I'll ask this again to, If I had some kind of corrosion going on in my rads wouldnt there of been crap in the water when I drained the loop?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> It still shows that acidic solvents aren't a good idea to use on nickel. The nickel plating on blocks and other items we use in loops are just a few microns thick.
> 
> And you'd be surprised how bad algae can be. I had to scrap a reservoir because nothing would take it off. Not scrubbing, not chemicals, not acids, soap, boiling it... That stuff will eat into the surface and stay there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Using any kind of harsh chemical or acid on plating will damage it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured it can be bad but can it actually eat through the nickel and into copper?
> 
> 
> 
> I'll ask this again to, If I had some kind of corrosion going on in my rads wouldnt there of been crap in the water when I drained the loop?
Click to expand...

The answer to this would be yes.









~Ceadder


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I seriously doubt that Ketchup will remove Nickel plating without something more caustic mixed in.


.. even after you've been shown what vinegar does to nickel... the pH doesn't matter if you let it sit long enough...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Put your block on a plate. Fill the chamber with Ketchup and let it sit. Check on it in about *30 minutes* w/o rinsing it and you will see bubbles percolating.


Just please stop posting this kind of "advice" in water cooling forums. Thanks


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Using any kind of harsh chemical or acid on plating will damage it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured it can be bad but can it actually eat through the nickel and into copper?
> 
> I'll ask this again to, If I had some kind of corrosion going on in my rads wouldnt there of been crap in the water when I drained the loop?


not always most solids will tend settle and form scale where the velocity of the liquid is least i.e radiators

I guess that's where the suggestions are being confused the damage has already been done I wouldn't recommend this on a new or clean loop.

Did you try flushing with your water main yet? it can be inconclusive any way as if 10 tubes were blocked and 4 were clear you probably will have reasonable flow.

as the damage has been done now I would suggest a aggressive cleaner like this as you are not willing to replace your rads.
http://www.wynns.net/product/i/radiator-flush
yes it could eat nickel off copper but it would probably warranted in this case because of the extremities of buildup in the cpu block


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The answer to this would be yes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thought so
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> not always most solids will tend settle and form scale where the velocity of the liquid is least i.e radiators
> 
> I guess that's where the suggestions are being confused the damage has already been done I wouldn't recommend this on a new or clean loop.
> 
> Did you try flushing with your water main yet? it can be inconclusive any way as if 10 tubes were blocked and 4 were clear you probably will have reasonable flow.
> 
> as the damage has been done now I would suggest a aggressive cleaner like this as you are not willing to replace your rads.
> http://www.wynns.net/product/i/radiator-flush
> yes it could eat nickel off copper but it would probably warranted in this case because of the extremities of buildup in the cpu block


No I havent tried flushing them yet but I will today when it cools down enough or I can be bothered lol

I could replace the rads its just I have a certain style of rad I like (clean lines and matte black), I was thinking of trying to get the nickel off the inside of my CPU block anyway seeing its already pretty stuffed so what harm could it do (and if it means I dont have to replace the block thats a plus)

My CPU block is clean now to although it may not look like it in the pic


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I seriously doubt that Ketchup will remove Nickel plating without something more caustic mixed in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. even after you've been shown what vinegar does to nickel... the pH doesn't matter if you let it sit long enough...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Put your block on a plate. Fill the chamber with Ketchup and let it sit. Check on it in about *30 minutes* w/o rinsing it and you will see bubbles percolating.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just please stop posting this kind of "advice" in water cooling forums. Thanks
Click to expand...

I don't know, maybe it's a difference in our languages, but I pointed out that the links supplied led to a COMPLETELY different use of Vinegar. One is an ingredient(my recommended use) and the other is straight mildly diluted.

There is a HUGE difference, so I would appreciate it if you take a step back and be a bit more respectful on this issue. Thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## Eze2kiel

*Eze2kiel Rig - Update 2014 v2.1*

Intel Core i5 [email protected] Delid
ASUS Sabertooth Z77
Patriot Intel Extreme Masters Viper 3 DDR3 16GB 2133MHz
Zotac GTX 770 [email protected]
Corsair Force GT 120GB
WD Caviar Green 2TB
Hitachi DS 320GB
BD-RW LG BH10LS30
Cooler Master Silent Pro 700W
Samsung T260
Lian Li X-1000

Koolance CPU-380I Water Block
EK-VGA Supremacy Bridge Edition Acetal+Nickel
Koolance PMP-450 Pump
Koolance HX-CU1402V Radiator 2x140mm 30-FPI Copper
5 x Lian Li LI121425BL-4-A Ball Bearing 140mm fan
2 x Koolance BLT-HX025 Radiator Mounting Screw & Nut
Koolance BKT-TKF3 Adjustable Reservoir Bracket
Koolance BDY-TK080X70 Reservoir Body, 80x80mm (WxL) 308ml
Koolance COV-TKTOPX70 Reservoir Top with Fill Port (80mm OD)
Koolance COV-TKBTMX70 Reservoir Fitting Base
3 x Koolance SCR-CP003PG Fitting Socket Plug
6 x Koolance NZL-V13P Compression 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
2 x Koolance NZL-L13P Swivel Angled 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
1 X Bitspower BP-BS30R
*2 X Bitspower BP-BS45R*
*12 x Koolance CLM-13 Hose Clamp 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD*
Saint-Gobain Durelene PVC tubing 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
Bitfenix Alchemy ATX 24-pin extension
Bitfenix Alchemy Intel EPS 8-pin extension
Bitfenix Alchemy 8-pin video card extension
Bitfenix Alchemy 6-pin video card extension


----------



## electro2u

Ahhh clean brand new soft tubing looks so nice. I wish it stayed crystalline permanently.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Ahhh clean brand new soft tubing looks so nice. I wish it stayed crystalline permanently.


The tubing are Durelene.
I've been using since February of this year. We will never change.

Regarding cleanliness, I use AC Spar purified filters:


----------



## derickwm

Soon™


----------



## Jakewat

Probably the most painful thing I have ever installed in a PC
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsb18c49b0.jpg.html


----------



## stickg1

No pain, no gain! Nice bend broseph!


----------



## kgtuning

Yeah that looks slick!


----------



## wermad

Anyone know if the BP d5 mod kits are compatible w/ any D5 top or exlusive to BP D5 tops???

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Soon™
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Will use Titan Z powah to fend of Grolar Bears:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> *Eze2kiel Rig - Update 2014 v2.1*
> 
> Intel Core i5 [email protected] Delid
> ASUS Sabertooth Z77
> Patriot Intel Extreme Masters Viper 3 DDR3 16GB 2133MHz
> Zotac GTX 770 [email protected]
> Corsair Force GT 120GB
> WD Caviar Green 2TB
> Hitachi DS 320GB
> BD-RW LG BH10LS30
> Cooler Master Silent Pro 700W
> Samsung T260
> Lian Li X-1000
> 
> Koolance CPU-380I Water Block
> EK-VGA Supremacy Bridge Edition Acetal+Nickel
> Koolance PMP-450 Pump
> Koolance HX-CU1402V Radiator 2x140mm 30-FPI Copper
> 5 x Lian Li LI121425BL-4-A Ball Bearing 140mm fan
> 2 x Koolance BLT-HX025 Radiator Mounting Screw & Nut
> Koolance BKT-TKF3 Adjustable Reservoir Bracket
> Koolance BDY-TK080X70 Reservoir Body, 80x80mm (WxL) 308ml
> Koolance COV-TKTOPX70 Reservoir Top with Fill Port (80mm OD)
> Koolance COV-TKBTMX70 Reservoir Fitting Base
> 3 x Koolance SCR-CP003PG Fitting Socket Plug
> 6 x Koolance NZL-V13P Compression 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
> 2 x Koolance NZL-L13P Swivel Angled 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
> 1 X Bitspower BP-BS30R
> *2 X Bitspower BP-BS45R*
> *12 x Koolance CLM-13 Hose Clamp 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD*
> Saint-Gobain Durelene PVC tubing 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
> Bitfenix Alchemy ATX 24-pin extension
> Bitfenix Alchemy Intel EPS 8-pin extension
> Bitfenix Alchemy 8-pin video card extension
> Bitfenix Alchemy 6-pin video card extension
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very clean! always a fan of koolance blocks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> The tubing are Durelene.
> I've been using since February of this year. We will never change.
> 
> Regarding cleanliness, I use AC Spar purified filters:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice filters







. Any performance loss?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Probably the most painful thing I have ever installed in a PC
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsb18c49b0.jpg.html


Nice bend


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> No pain, no gain! Nice bend broseph!


If your username were BrosephStalin, this would be perfect.



That's a wicked good bend, I'm really diggin' the looks man.

-Zepp


----------



## Jakewat

Glad people like the bend, not the best quality pic either. Shows you don't need no fancy bending kits, I just use a cutting mat with angles on it


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thank you. As said I am no expert and while I still doubt that Ketchup would ruin the finish of any block, others seem to be positive that it will. Will expound further down this response...
> I would NEVER suggest running /flushing vinegar through a loop with metals in it. Even diluted there are too many variables to worry about. We're talking Ketchup here mate. Even the Ph level of Ketchup pales to that of straight Vinegar/Diluted Vinegar. You might just as well use bleach if you're gonna use straight vinegar even in a diluted solution of distilled.
> Tomatoes = Acidic
> 
> Vinegar = Acidic
> 
> In either case, that is nothing compared to straight vinegar which is a ph level of 2. Battery acid is a ph level of 0 just to put some clarity on the subject.
> 
> A ph level of 3.9 is livable imho seeing as tomato juice has a ph level of 4. I seriously doubt that Ketchup will remove Nickel plating without something more caustic mixed in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a chart  detailing ph values of different materials.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The PH of vinegar changes when diluted, just the same as it does when mixed into Ketchup. The more diluted, the closer it moves to the PH of pure water. A 10% concentration would not be very different to Ketchup at all.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Glad people like the bend, not the best quality pic either. *Shows you don't need no fancy bending kits*, I just use a cutting mat with angles on it


Maybe . . . . Maybe not,

That's just the first one . . . .

Let's see if the rest of them all match the bend radius.

Consistency throughout all the bends is what makes the end product look professional . . . .

And the Monsoon kit, or a good DIY substitute, makes that a lot easier to manage, . .

well worth the cost, when considering what you have invested in the rest of the rig already.

Looking good so far . .

Darlene


----------



## ThornTwist

Hey guys, I'm starting a build Log for my water cooling project. I'm starting with a basic all in one kit/custom loop hybrid and will eventually be water cooling 3x GTX 980s and the CPU. I am very new to this so the idea is to start small and make upgrades along the way. There will be 3 phases where I make upgrades of parts. I'm starting with the CPU only with a Larkooler SkyWater 330 Water Cooling Kit with some custom tubing, custom fittings and different coolant just to get my feet wet and hopefully not the PC.

Here's a recent pic of where I'm at:


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Me again (annoyingly







), bout to clean my rads with 50/50 distilled and vinegar but I got a question first how do I go about drying them once I finish? the AX rads have the have foam tape stuff on them to keep the rad its self protected and fit snug in the outer casing, I cant just stick it in the oven with the tape on can I?

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Me again (annoyingly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), bout to clean my rads with 50/50 distilled and vinegar but I got a question first how do I go about drying them once I finish? the AX rads have the have foam tape stuff on them to keep the rad its self protected and fit snug in the outer casing, I cant just stick it in the oven with the tape on can I?
> 
> Thanks


If you're going to flush with a vinegar solution . . . be sure to follow up with a bi-carb flush, and then a couple distilled flushes . .

These guys will tweak the amount, but a teaspoon or so of baking soda, (bi-carb) in a couple liters of water and shake it around in the rad after the vinegar solution to neutralize it.

Then flush with hot distilled water. . . . voila . . ready to go

There should be no need to dry it in the oven.

D.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're going to flush with a vinegar solution . . . be sure to follow up with a bi-carb flush, and then a couple distilled flushes . .
> 
> These guys will tweak the amount, but a teaspoon or so of baking soda, (bi-carb) in a couple liters of water and shake it around in the rad after the vinegar solution to neutralize it.
> 
> Then flush with hot distilled water. . . . voila . . ready to go
> 
> There should be no need to dry it in the oven.
> 
> D.


Cool thanks









Another question about my CPU block, seeing the nickel inside on the bottom is pretty damaged will it be ok to leave it the way it is or would it be better to try and remove it? (just the internal nickel)


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm starting a build Log for my water cooling project. I'm starting with a basic all in one kit/custom loop hybrid and will eventually be water cooling 3x GTX 980s and the CPU. I am very new to this so the idea is to start small and make upgrades along the way. There will be 3 phases where I make upgrades of parts. I'm starting with the CPU only with a Larkooler SkyWater 330 Water Cooling Kit with some custom tubing, custom fittings and different coolant just to get my feet wet and hopefully not the PC.
> 
> Here's a recent pic of where I'm at:


You have a nasty kink in the top of that tube.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're going to flush with a vinegar solution . . . be sure to follow up with a bi-carb flush, and then a couple distilled flushes . .
> 
> These guys will tweak the amount, but a teaspoon or so of baking soda, (bi-carb) in a couple liters of water and shake it around in the rad after the vinegar solution to neutralize it.
> 
> Then flush with hot distilled water. . . . voila . . ready to go
> 
> There should be no need to dry it in the oven.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question about my CPU block, seeing the nickel inside on the bottom is pretty damaged will it be ok to leave it the way it is or would it be better to try and remove it? (just the internal nickel)
Click to expand...

Err on the side of caution. Either remove the nickel or get a new block. It could flake and ruin your pump.


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Me again (annoyingly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), bout to clean my rads with 50/50 distilled and vinegar but I got a question first how do I go about drying them once I finish? the AX rads have the have foam tape stuff on them to keep the rad its self protected and fit snug in the outer casing, I cant just stick it in the oven with the tape on can I?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're going to flush with a vinegar solution . . . be sure to follow up with a bi-carb flush, and then a couple distilled flushes . .
> 
> These guys will tweak the amount, but a teaspoon or so of baking soda, (bi-carb) in a couple liters of water and shake it around in the rad after the vinegar solution to neutralize it.
> 
> Then flush with hot distilled water. . . . voila . . ready to go
> 
> There should be no need to dry it in the oven.
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

This.

It does not take much to lower the pH of distilled water. One drop of strong acid in a liter of distilled will give it a pH of around 2-3. If you don't neutralize the vinegar, it can lower the pH of your loop coolant quite a lot. Low pH, no matter how dilute, with high temp (running loop) on the metals in your loop would be a bad thing. Acid can also attack plasticizers and resins in your tubing and create a worse problem than you had.


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Err on the side of caution. Either remove the nickel or get a new block. It could flake and ruin your pump.


To err is human. To arr is pirate







on a serious note i agree, i would remove the nickel.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Err on the side of caution. Either remove the nickel or get a new block. It could flake and ruin your pump.


I'm starting to think a new block, removing the nickel looks to hard and kinda dangerous







to do and I dont wanna stuff any of my other parts (plus I'm still thinking my CPU block is some how causing problems)

I wouldnt mind getting a copper block so I dont have to worry about the internal nickel but I like the look of the nickel on the outside (plus it matches my GPU block), theres no blocks with internal copper and nickel outside or even nickel top with copper bottom is there?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> This.
> 
> It does not take much to lower the pH of distilled water. One drop of strong acid in a liter of distilled will give it a pH of around 2-3. If you don't neutralize the vinegar, it can lower the pH of your loop coolant quite a lot. Low pH, no matter how dilute, with high temp (running loop) on the metals in your loop would be a bad thing. Acid can also attack plasticizers and resins in your tubing and create a worse problem than you had.


I did that on my 240 just before, mum said the water came out blueish







(told her if she was gonna drain it to drain into a container







), I'll do it again on my 360 tomorrow so I can see for myself tho

I used 50/50 vinegar distilled, gave it a good shake and left it for 30mins, good shake again then drained, 1 teaspoon bicarb to 600ml distilled, gave it a good shake and left it for 30mins, good shake again then flushed 3 times with hot distilled shaking the crap out of it each time to make sure all the vinegar and bicarb was out


----------



## bilbs84

This is my loop at the moment. Always was unsure about liquid cooling, the idea of electronics and water didnt seem like a good idea to me, untill I learned about the noise levels. Origianly I just had a H80i, but loved the look of custom loops, and well last week, finally took the plunge


----------



## Jakusonfire

A new block is going a little far unless doing it just because a new one will look better. The block really cant hurt anything else in the loop even if it does corrode further. People seem to imagine chunks or shards of metal flying around the loop, but the plating is microscopically thin and mostly just dissolves. Remember, the plating was just a solution before it was on the block. A pump being damaged by it is extremely unlikely.


----------



## zzorro

look nice..







orange juice 1 pls..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bilbs84*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Still with the acids.....

How many times do I need to say this,don't use acids for cleaning WC kit.
Anymore on this subject needs to be in its own thread,not here.


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Err on the side of caution. Either remove the nickel or get a new block. It could flake and ruin your pump.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting to think a new block, removing the nickel looks to hard and kinda dangerous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to do and I dont wanna stuff any of my other parts (plus I'm still thinking my CPU block is some how causing problems)
> 
> I wouldnt mind getting a copper block so I dont have to worry about the internal nickel but I like the look of the nickel on the outside (plus it matches my GPU block), theres no blocks with internal copper and nickel outside or even nickel top with copper bottom is there?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> This.
> 
> It does not take much to lower the pH of distilled water. One drop of strong acid in a liter of distilled will give it a pH of around 2-3. If you don't neutralize the vinegar, it can lower the pH of your loop coolant quite a lot. Low pH, no matter how dilute, with high temp (running loop) on the metals in your loop would be a bad thing. Acid can also attack plasticizers and resins in your tubing and create a worse problem than you had.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I did that on my 240 just before, mum said the water came out blueish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (told her if she was gonna drain it to drain into a container
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I'll do it again on my 360 tomorrow so I can see for myself tho
> 
> I used 50/50 vinegar distilled, gave it a good shake and left it for 30mins, good shake again then drained, 1 teaspoon bicarb to 600ml distilled, gave it a good shake and left it for 30mins, good shake again then flushed 3 times with hot distilled shaking the crap out of it each time to make sure all the vinegar and bicarb was out
Click to expand...

Did you use battery acid (sulfuric acid)? Copper sulfate is blue. You were literally eating the copper out of the radiator.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> very clean! always a fan of koolance blocks


No, I'm not a Koolance fan.
The universal GPU block is EK.

In fact if you go through here: http://goo.gl/hFhpCP you'll realize that I had problems with the brand.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice filters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Any performance loss?


I tested both without these filters as filters in place and not notice differences with respect to temperature.

My advice is... What do performance loss more?
A heatsink full of dirt or dirt-filled filter?
The answer you know


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Did you use battery acid (sulfuric acid)? Copper sulfate is blue. You were literally eating the copper out of the radiator.


He said he used vinegar. Copper acetate is blue as well.

Not sure why flushing an AX rad anyway. I have two AX120s and an AX240 and none of them had any flux in them.


----------



## wermad

I have some Brasso, will use that on my cpu block copper base.


----------



## Knight Rider

Hello to you dear watercooling enthusiast.

After more than fifteen months consulting OCN, here is my first waterccoling build.

This is my wetdream, this is the name of my build


----------



## electro2u

Asterisks aren't allowed? That was the greatest monday meme of all time! Of all time!

I have to say wet dream is probably way to racey for this sensitive forum, but that is one of the more beautiful posts I've seen on this thread so hopefully no one reports it as offensive.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A new block is going a little far unless doing it just because a new one will look better. The block really cant hurt anything else in the loop even if it does corrode further. People seem to imagine chunks or shards of metal flying around the loop, but the plating is microscopically thin and mostly just dissolves. Remember, the plating was just a solution before it was on the block. A pump being damaged by it is extremely unlikely.


But if it flakes off wont it eventually block up the rads? I know its just tiny bits but still
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still with the acids.....
> 
> How many times do I need to say this,don't use acids for cleaning WC kit.
> Anymore on this subject needs to be in its own thread,not here.


I'm only using vinegar for my rads, soap and water did nothing same as on my CPU block
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Did you use battery acid (sulfuric acid)? Copper sulfate is blue. You were literally eating the copper out of the radiator.


I wouldnt use battery acid... just vinegar
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> He said he used vinegar. Copper acetate is blue as well.
> 
> Not sure why flushing an AX rad anyway. I have two AX120s and an AX240 and none of them had any flux in them.


Its not for the flux, I had massive algae build up in my CPU block so I'm trying to make sure my rads are clean to, also someone said the rads could be corroded so flushing them with vinegar to see if they are or not

All this cleaning and uncertainty I'm almost ready to just buy new rads, blocks, pump etc (waste of almost $400 tho)


----------



## Jakewat

Does anyone know what would be the minimum thickness of acrylic I could use in having water channels milled into them. I am currently planning on having two pieces of 6mm thick acrylic/ plexi with channels to be milled out and then sandwich them together with an O-ring.
I want this piece to be a midplate for my TJ07 but it's the same idea as what Hans Peder Sahl had in his project N.V build (pictured below)


----------



## wermad

wermad had *SEVEN* ek nickel blocks failed. Loop still ran fine, there was no degradation in thermal performance, rads were flushed when they were eventually sold with no issues, and pump lived on to power on a few more builds.

No need to cry the sky is falling for a bit of nickel failure or copper tarnish


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I am gonna put a custom fishtank res in my pc and fill it with dinoflagellates
muahahaha
https://www.touchofmodern.com/sales/biopop-dino-pet/dino-pet


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knight Rider*
> 
> Hello to you dear watercooling enthusiast.
> 
> After more than fifteen months consulting OCN, here is my first waterccoling build.
> 
> This is my wetdream, this is the name of my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice looking build you got there buddy. Nice job.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Asterisks aren't allowed? That was the greatest monday meme of all time! Of all time!
> 
> I have to say wet dream is probably way to racey for this sensitive forum, but that is one of the more beautiful posts I've seen on this thread so hopefully no one reports it as offensive.


You talking about the deleted Monday grumpy cat meme?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Does anyone know what would be the minimum thickness of acrylic I could use in having water channels milled into them. I am currently planning on having two pieces of 6mm thick acrylic/ plexi with channels to be milled out and then sandwich them together with an O-ring.
> I want this piece to be a midplate for my TJ07 but it's the same idea as what Hans Peder Sahl had in his project N.V build (pictured below)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Besides the strength considerations you really just need enough depth for the 5mm thread of fittings to go through the top layer and have clearance before the back layer so the fitting thread itself does not block water flow. That doesn't necessarily mean it has to be 5mm thick of course because they would have channels milled that increases the clearance.
2 6mm sheets with say 3mm depth channels would give you 2mm for threading and an 6mm channel width. I would probably prefer more than that but a bit of real world experimentation might be needed. The thickness of acrylic used on water blocks is likely a good place to start.

Good luck with it, and I hope to see what you come up with. I have though a bit about something similar too.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Besides the strength considerations you really just need enough depth for the 5mm thread of fittings to go through the top layer and have clearance before the back layer so the fitting thread itself does not block water flow. That doesn't necessarily mean it has to be 5mm thick of course because they would have channels milled that increases the clearance.
> 2 6mm sheets with say 3mm depth channels would give you 2mm for threading and an 6mm channel width. I would probably prefer more than that but a bit of real world experimentation might be needed. The thickness of acrylic used on water blocks is likely a good place to start.
> 
> Good luck with it, and I hope to see what you come up with. I have though a bit about something similar too.


Yeah well my main issue is that I can only fit a midplate in with a maxium thickness of about 15mm, and I'm pretty sure acrylic sheet usually don't come made in 7mm sheets (which would provide slightly better clearance). Also, wouldn't using 6mm sheets with 3mm milled channels give me 3mm of threading, having the fittings only blocking about 2mm, this would seem alright and not be too restrictive. I'll keep researching though, my other issue is my lack of CAD design skills, but hopefully I can transfer my sketches to a more technical drawing soon and show you guys.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

You can get plexi in all kinds of thicknesses http://www.professionalplastics.com/PLEXIGLASS-ACRYLICSHEET-EXTRUDEd
And colors


----------



## nismoskyline

@Knight Rider

You've got to be lying, that's way too good for your first watercooled build









It look amazing, to think that you'll only improve from that makes me eager to see what you'll do in the future


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A new block is going a little far unless doing it just because a new one will look better. The block really cant hurt anything else in the loop even if it does corrode further. People seem to imagine chunks or shards of metal flying around the loop, but the plating is microscopically thin and mostly just dissolves. Remember, the plating was just a solution before it was on the block. A pump being damaged by it is extremely unlikely.
> 
> 
> 
> But if it flakes off wont it eventually block up the rads? I know its just tiny bits but still
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still with the acids.....
> 
> How many times do I need to say this,don't use acids for cleaning WC kit.
> Anymore on this subject needs to be in its own thread,not here.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm only using vinegar for my rads, soap and water did nothing same as on my CPU block
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Did you use battery acid (sulfuric acid)? Copper sulfate is blue. You were literally eating the copper out of the radiator.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wouldnt use battery acid... just vinegar
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> He said he used vinegar. Copper acetate is blue as well.
> 
> Not sure why flushing an AX rad anyway. I have two AX120s and an AX240 and none of them had any flux in them.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Its not for the flux, I had massive algae build up in my CPU block so I'm trying to make sure my rads are clean to, also someone said the rads could be corroded so flushing them with vinegar to see if they are or not
> 
> All this cleaning and uncertainty I'm almost ready to just buy new rads, blocks, pump etc (waste of almost $400 tho)
Click to expand...

Well you could always install a particle filter in the loop. Most everybody sells one. I do know that PPCs' stocks a Koolance version. not sure what you have available where you are at however.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Are the white NB eloops the same as their red/black (phobya) and blue (alphacool) counterparts?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Does anyone know what would be the minimum thickness of acrylic I could use in having water channels milled into them. I am currently planning on having two pieces of 6mm thick acrylic/ plexi with channels to be milled out and then sandwich them together with an O-ring.
> I want this piece to be a midplate for my TJ07 but it's the same idea as what Hans Peder Sahl had in his project N.V build (pictured below)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I always loved the way he pulled that off . . . one of my favorite acrylic projects.

From the pics, he's using 2 layers of ~10mm.

You'd definitely need about that thickness for the side with the fittings to have 5mm for thread engagement and 5mm of channel depth.

You can see he's milled the channel and o ring groove in the one layer, and the top is flat.

You might get away with a slightly thinner top in the 5mm to 6mm range if you have the screws sit above the surface, but to have them all recessed like he does, you have to have the extra thickness . . . which also helps with rigidity so that you still maintain a good seal, when you can't get a lot of screws in the right places.

Darlene


----------



## blackfox2526

*Project RedHashCats :*

Intel Core i7 4930K
16GB corsair Ram
Asus P9X79-EWS
2 * Adata 120 GB SSD
Enermax platimax 1500 + Enermax Revolution87+ 1000W
LianLi Case + 5 Noctua NF-A14 3000rpm PWM fan @ max Speed (2 on side panel and 3 in front of the case as exhaust !!!!!!!!)
Lots of 7990 ........

At max load on 6 GPU in hashcat utility the max temp was 65C which for these beasts is magical !


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Are the white NB eloops the same as their red/black (phobya) and blue (alphacool) counterparts?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Different max rpm in some cases and less accessories but otherwise yeah. The blades are also a bit more translucent compared to the completely opaque white ones.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackfox2526*
> 
> *Project RedHashCats :*
> 
> This was a semi Military Project designed for a research institute for hash algorithm cracking and brute force password cracking with hashcat softwares ......
> 2 system each with a same configuration as follows:
> Intel Core i7 4930K
> 16GB corsair Ram
> Asus P9X79-EWS
> 2 * Adata 120 GB SSD
> Enermax platimax 1500 + Enermax Revolution87+ 1000W
> LianLi Case + 5 Noctua NF-A14 3000rpm PWM fan @ max Speed (2 on side panel and 3 in front of the case as exhaust !!!!!!!!)
> Lots of 7990 ........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For them looks and noise doesn't matter so we don't care about it.
> At max load on 6 GPU in hashcat utility the max temp was 65C which for these beasts is magical !


Semi-military... and you're located in Iran? Hmmm.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> wermad had *SEVEN* ek nickel blocks failed. Loop still ran fine, there was no degradation in thermal performance, rads were flushed when they were eventually sold with no issues, and pump lived on to power on a few more builds.
> 
> No need to cry the sky is falling for a bit of nickel failure or copper tarnish


How the hell do you have 7 blocks fail?









Think from now on I'll be going copper blocks...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well you could always install a particle filter in the loop. Most everybody sells one. I do know that PPCs' stocks a Koolance version. not sure what you have available where you are at however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thats always an option I suppose

So I flushed my 360 rad out today, the vinegar water came out pretty much like this all the rest of the water was clear tho, I think my 360 may have some tubes blocked or something... it didnt seem like water was flowing through them all (it also took about the same amount of water as my 240) so I'll have to check that tomorrow, really dont wanna buy another rad but if the flows crap I suppose that would explain my filling problems


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Different max rpm in some cases and less accessories but otherwise yeah. The blades are also a bit more translucent compared to the completely opaque white ones.


This.
Detail on the accessories on the white is the following:


Spoiler: Warning: image!




a bunch of version of em
http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/noiseblocker-it-fans/nb-eloop-series/120x120x25mm.php?lang=EN


Phobya/Alphacool variant:


Spoiler: Warning: image!




Phobya have them at 1000 and 1800rpm in black, 1600 in red.
Alphacool have them in 1200 and 2300 rpm in blue.
None pwm


----------



## blackfox2526

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Semi-military... and you're located in Iran? Hmmm.


Semi-military THEME my friend !!!! we changed the cases and the looks ! don't worry








they want this machines for testing and designing new hash algorithms.


----------



## jake93s

man i was amazed, i made my first post on here showing off my new build. not one person commented on it.








arr well. guess my first build wasn't good enough


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jake93s*
> 
> man i was amazed, i made my first post on here showing off my new build. not one person commented on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> arr well. guess my first build wasn't good enough


 Not true Jake, your build looks very nice. perhaps you could tell us about the components and make up of it.

I would like to know what it is you have there and maybe some results you have had from it.

maybe a few more shots so we can see the whole machine.

Spec it out for us


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jake93s*
> 
> man i was amazed, i made my first post on here showing off my new build. not one person commented on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> arr well. guess my first build wasn't good enough


That does look awesome man... Why only one of those ram sticks lights up though? Or is that normal...


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You have a nasty kink in the top of that tube.


You are correct. when I heated up the tube to put it over the fitting it got all twisted when I screwed it on naturally, and it just sort of happened. I can try to use a different piece of tubing, but I did ask about this in the build log in my sig and I haven't gotten any responses so don't know what to do about it. the piece you see there is about a foot long so about $3. I don't mind spending money, but I don't like throwing it away either. Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: Heated with warm water.


----------



## jake93s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That does look awesome man... Why only one of those ram sticks lights up though? Or is that normal...


yeah thats normal they have a pattern. i want to get another set, would look rad having 4. it has a i5 4960k , gtx 780ti, and a asus sabertooth motherboard
ill post all the my other pictures. first one is of my very first ever build. i've gone a long way.





i wonder if any of you can guess what the graphics cards on the desk xD


----------



## bond32

Nice... Love that Enthoo Primo. I've had one myself. Arguably the best WC case next to Case labs...


----------



## jake93s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Nice... Love that Enthoo Primo. I've had one myself. Arguably the best WC case next to Case labs...


agreed and for the price its hard to say no to. but saying that i wouldn't buy it again, it really is too big and i would like to have a pc that fitted under my desk. or is that too much to ask for? xD
haha. but yeah i love it. hope to have it for many years to come


----------



## welshy46

PhanteksI nearly went with the primo, ut after getting the tape measure out and measuring it against the case it was to replace. I down sized and went for the Luxe. Nice build @jake93s







you should throw some pics up in the Phanteks thread as well.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jake93s*
> 
> man i was amazed, i made my first post on here showing off my new build. not one person commented on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> arr well. guess my first build wasn't good enough


no comments is typical if you dont have $1000 wrapped up in blocks and fittings. i got nothing from every build/upgrade ive posted. it doesnt bother me. its pretty for me and thats the person who uses and (doesnt) hear it.

i also got the 480mm installed in my new case. 60*C max (ambient 25.5*C) running p95 after 7 hours with all fans running 5v. oh she is a quiet baby now.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no comments is typical if you dont have $1000 wrapped up in blocks and fittings. i got nothing from every build/upgrade ive posted. it doesnt bother me. its pretty for me and thats the person who uses and (doesnt) hear it.
> 
> i also got the 480mm installed in my new case. 60*C max (ambient 25.5*C) running p95 after 7 hours with all fans running 5v. oh she is a quiet baby now.


lol

I think we all have been spoiled by the awesome photography skills of some members really.







If it isn't taken in a controlled lighting environment with a DSLR and edited a bit afterwards we seem to keep quiet.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no comments is typical if you dont have $1000 wrapped up in blocks and fittings. i got nothing from every build/upgrade ive posted. it doesnt bother me. its pretty for me and thats the person who uses and (doesnt) hear it.
> 
> i also got the 480mm installed in my new case. 60*C max (ambient 25.5*C) running p95 after 7 hours with all fans running 5v. oh she is a quiet baby now.


I hear you man. I have upwards of 4 grand wrapped up in my build and the only people who are impressed are the ones still rockin' the z77s and 770s.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> How the hell do you have 7 blocks fail?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think from now on I'll be going copper blocks...
> Thats always an option I suppose


That was back in 2011, no need to hit the panic button







. Ek fixed it with csq line, sort of (







). From time to time, some would have this and it wasn't just one brand. I just stopped using silver as a biocide and just run naked distilled. I just flush out the whole loop frequently (mainly dur to upgrades







). This is probably my paranoia but I got
burned pretty good, so I'm wary (but not crazy







).

So, it would be very unlikely to have severe failure on its own. Unless one does something improper. I'm piecing a new loop with copper and nickel components. There's always the risk of algae, but I just keep am eye on it.

My








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Different max rpm in some cases and less accessories but otherwise yeah. The blades are also a bit more translucent compared to the completely opaque white ones.


Ty good sir







(+1). Debating if I should return the sp120 hp's for the blue Alphacool eloops


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*
> 
> You are correct. when I heated up the tube to put it over the fitting it got all twisted when I screwed it on naturally, and it just sort of happened. I can try to use a different piece of tubing, but I did ask about this in the build log in my sig and I haven't gotten any responses so don't know what to do about it. the piece you see there is about a foot long so about $3. I don't mind spending money, but I don't like throwing it away either. Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Edit: Heated with warm water.


That or the use of a angle adapter, it kinked because it's bending so much in such a small area. You can relieve it by using angle adapters.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That or the use of a angle adapter, it kinked because it's bending so much in such a small area. You can relieve it by using angle adapters.


I'm saving those for later. Many upgrades for this water cooling build.


----------



## jake93s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no comments is typical if you dont have $1000 wrapped up in blocks and fittings. i got nothing from every build/upgrade ive posted. it doesnt bother me. its pretty for me and thats the person who uses and (doesnt) hear it.
> 
> i also got the 480mm installed in my new case. 60*C max (ambient 25.5*C) running p95 after 7 hours with all fans running 5v. oh she is a quiet baby now.


your build is really nice. what case you running? can't tell from the pictures. i like the mod you did to it too. and all the custom cables are very slick


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That or the use of a angle adapter, it kinked because it's bending so much in such a small area. You can relieve it by using angle adapters.


its a twisted kink. but yeah, a rotary fitting would help

thanks jake.
it was a 500r. the cables arent custom. corsair replacements.
new case is a nanoxia ds6 white. its so flippin huge....

but the old build wasnt really nice, but it was mine.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackfox2526*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Project RedHashCats :*
> 
> Intel Core i7 4930K
> 16GB corsair Ram
> Asus P9X79-EWS
> 2 * Adata 120 GB SSD
> Enermax platimax 1500 + Enermax Revolution87+ 1000W
> LianLi Case + 5 Noctua NF-A14 3000rpm PWM fan @ max Speed (2 on side panel and 3 in front of the case as exhaust !!!!!!!!)
> Lots of 7990 ........
> 
> At max load on 6 GPU in hashcat utility the max temp was 65C which for these beasts is magical !


Five HD 7990?!









The only thing that would have worried me with that setup is the one radiator for 3x HD 7990 and a 4930K ... I would have done at least 2x 480 and a 240 as a minimum, it does not surprise me that you get 65C on the GPU's with that little radiator area. 3000 rpm fans as well, then it is not quite either!







Why water cool your GPU's and CPU when it still is hot and loud? I fail to see the point.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Five HD 7990?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing that would have worried me with that setup is the one radiator for 3x HD 7990 and a 4930K ... I would have done at least 2x 480 and a 240 as a minimum, it does not surprise me that you get 65C on the GPU's with that little radiator area. 3000 rpm fans as well, then it is not quite either!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why water cool your GPU's and CPU when it still is hot and loud? I fail to see the point.


those cards would be starved for air and overheat if they werent watered.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> those cards would be starved for air and overheat if they werent watered.


I think hes saying its still going to be hot and loud with what you chose to do,


----------



## electro2u

Holy bejeebus... I just tore down my Rampage IV trifire build to blitz everything and the spot I had a small leak at, between the monoblock outlet and the run of fittings to the ram block nearby, which I cranked with needle nose pliers to stop, the fitting immediately going from the outlet had *no Oring in it*! That says a lot about bitspower fittings I think. 2 months like that. Had noticed was losing coolant slowly and that must have been why. I'm so careless sometimes. Was switching green Orings for red and left that one off altogether...

The white stuff that I'd been noticing in my loop was coming from the alphacool radiators. Mostly from the bottom of my vertical 280 at the extra drain port. It seems like it's paint it looks blueish just like the koolance black qdc paint corrosion.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I think hes saying its still going to be hot and loud with what you chose to do,


that is what he said. on air they would be a lot hotter, a lot. 65*C under load isnt that hot for a 7990.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no comments is typical if you dont have $1000 wrapped up in blocks and fittings. i got nothing from every build/upgrade ive posted. it doesnt bother me. its pretty for me and thats the person who uses and (doesnt) hear it.
> 
> i also got the 480mm installed in my new case. 60*C max (ambient 25.5*C) running p95 after 7 hours with all fans running 5v. oh she is a quiet baby now.
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> I think we all have been spoiled by the awesome photography skills of some members really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it isn't taken in a controlled lighting environment with a DSLR and edited a bit afterwards we seem to keep quiet.
Click to expand...

I think its more down to the exceptional quality of rigs on OCN,unless you bring something new and unique then it tends to get passed by.

Good photos don't hurt tho....


----------



## DarthBaggins

^65 is cool for an AMD gpu


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> those cards would be starved for air and overheat if they werent watered.


3 fans on each HD 7990 and MSI AB with fancurve at 100%, think that would have kept it below 95C. Have not tried, but it seems weird to me that three fans at 100% fan speed could not hold that cold, one little fan held my stock air-cooled R9 290X with 100% fan speed at 78C in a not-ventilated case (I had to have a 140 mm fan blowing fresh air straight at it for it not to thermal throttle on me).









As far as I have read the R9 290X core is the hottest AMD-core in a while, I have also read that the HD 7990 gets hot. I have stacked four R9 290X (with stock coolers) on top of each other, MSI AB with 100% fan speed and done gaming on 4K with them. That is supernova hot and louder than my car.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I think hes saying its still going to be hot and loud with what you chose to do,


Hot and loud, you got me!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> that is what he said. on air they would be a lot hotter, a lot. 65*C under load isnt that hot for a 7990.


95C is a lot hotter than 65C, but 65C is nowhere near impressive on water, I just do not see the point doing water cooling if the components still is hot, another 480 and he would probably see 10C lower temperature average on load, push pull on the radiator(s) would also help. Maybe 65C is not hot for a 7990, but it is hot for water cooling-temperatures. Yes, I said that. As mentioned above, I have done quadfire R9 290X stacked with air cooling 100% fan speed, they are loud and hot too.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> ^65 is cool for an AMD gpu


If it was on air I would have been surprised, but water cooled and 65C ... I say no more.







Normal is below 50C even on highly overclocked GPU's.


----------



## Nichismo

hey guys, got a little update here. Im nearly done with my loops. I just got to make a couple more small connections, I ran out of a few fittings and ordered more, theyre going to be delivered today and ill be ready to finish after im off work tonight.

Im really happy with how I was able to make a few specific connections. Im actually going to do 100% Crystal link tubing, even behind the motherboard tray/divider, its gone suprisingly good so far.

in the second picture, you can see how I connected the piping from the GPUs to there panel port. This was placed inbetween the side of the power supply and the wall, and with the rail that the motherboard tray slides on protruding from the wall, I was worried I wasnt going to be able to fit any fittings in there. But with the low profile Bitspower 90 degree fitting (no rotary), I was able to pull it off. The PSU slides in perfectly now.


----------



## bond32

Well now I'm just all sorts of jelly... That looks awesome!


----------



## pc-illiterate

3x 7990 plus a 4930k on a 480 rad.
6x gpu plus a 4930k on a single 480 rad.
ive also never seen a 3000 rpm magma fan either. that means 4x 1800rpm fans pushing through an rx480 to cool 6x 7970 and a 4930k.
65*C on the gpu's. cooler and quieter than stock air cooling


----------



## bond32

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackfox2526*
> 
> *Project RedHashCats :*
> 
> Intel Core i7 4930K
> 16GB corsair Ram
> Asus P9X79-EWS
> 2 * Adata 120 GB SSD
> Enermax platimax 1500 + Enermax Revolution87+ 1000W
> LianLi Case + 5 Noctua NF-A14 3000rpm PWM fan @ max Speed (2 on side panel and 3 in front of the case as exhaust !!!!!!!!)
> Lots of 7990 ........
> 
> At max load on 6 GPU in hashcat utility the max temp was 65C which for these beasts is magical !






Dude I just peed a little... I thought I had a power-hungry rig with a 5 ghz 4790k and 4 290x's... What's the draw of those bad boys at full tilt?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> 
> Dude I just peed a little... I thought I had a power-hungry rig with a 5 ghz 4790k and 4 290x's... What's the draw of those bad boys at full tilt?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*


No offense, but doesn't really tell me much. Tells me the full consumption of a rig I don't know of, total rather than the individual card (7990)...

I would guess, a fully OC'ed 7970 pulls about 300 watts yes? So his system as a whole would pull about 2.2 kW which actually isn't that much different from mine...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jake93s*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That does look awesome man... Why only one of those ram sticks lights up though? Or is that normal...
> 
> 
> 
> yeah thats normal they have a pattern. i want to get another set, would look rad having 4. it has a i5 4960k , gtx 780ti, and a asus sabertooth motherboard
> ill post all the my other pictures. first one is of my very first ever build. i've gone a long way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wonder if any of you can guess what the graphics cards on the desk xD
Click to expand...

is it one of these?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> No offense, but doesn't really tell me much. Tells me the full consumption of a rig I don't know of, total rather than the individual card (7990)...
> 
> I would guess, a fully OC'ed 7970 pulls about 300 watts yes? So his system as a whole would pull about 2.2 kW which actually isn't that much different from mine...


On the power front their binning has enabled them to get a dual-GPU Tahiti card out at 375W.
1.5 year old article
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6915/amd-radeon-hd-7990-review-7990-gets-official/16


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> On the power front their binning has enabled them to get a dual-GPU Tahiti card out at 375W.
> 1.5 year old article
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/6915/amd-radeon-hd-7990-review-7990-gets-official/16


That's the rating of the delivery to the card, I get that. But my 290x's are the same - they have a tdp of 375 watts. But I can push them to draw 400 if I want to, and that's a single gpu. So I'm curious what a card like the 7990 and the 295x can draw when fully oc'ed.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Been using Scythe GentleTyphoon for all my RADs but now they dont sell them anymore. What do you guy use instead?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Been using Scythe GentleTyphoon for all my RADs but now they dont sell them anymore. What do you guy use instead?


Check out http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Been using Scythe GentleTyphoon for all my RADs but now they dont sell them anymore. What do you guy use instead?


Coolerguys still sells them.

Actually, Nidec is still making them.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That was back in 2011, no need to hit the panic button
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ek fixed it with csq line, sort of (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). From time to time, some would have this and it wasn't just one brand. I just stopped using silver as a biocide and just run naked distilled. I just flush out the whole loop frequently (mainly dur to upgrades
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). This is probably my paranoia but I got
> burned pretty good, so I'm wary (but not crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> So, it would be very unlikely to have severe failure on its own. Unless one does something improper. I'm piecing a new loop with copper and nickel components. There's always the risk of algae, but I just keep am eye on it.
> 
> My


Ah ok still, thats a hell of a lot of blocks









I think from now on (ie next build) I'll be going 100% copper blocks and rads if I can, may not get the look I want but least I dont have to worry about the nickel coming off









I already had the algae problem (hence all the talk about acids earlier) had to get pretty harsh on some of the parts to even get rid of the crap which is why the nickel on my CPU block is damaged









On a side note I should be able to order the (hopefully) last of my fittings and crap so I can finally get my pc back up







going a little insane without it now


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Coolerguys still sells them.
> 
> Actually, Nidec is still making them.


Super expensive + high shipping cost. I bought my GTs for $12.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah ok still, thats a hell of a lot of blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think from now on (ie next build) I'll be going 100% copper blocks and rads if I can, may not get the look I want but least I dont have to worry about the nickel coming off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already had the algae problem (hence all the talk about acids earlier) had to get pretty harsh on some of the parts to even get rid of the crap which is why the nickel on my CPU block is damaged
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note I should be able to order the (hopefully) last of my fittings and crap so I can finally get my pc back up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> going a little insane without it now


Thats the reason why I wont swap to nickle plated blocks, just in fear of an issue even though they have been minimal the past couple of years.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Thats the reason why I wont swap to nickle plated blocks, just in fear of an issue even though they have been minimal the past couple of years.


Only reason I went nickel was for the look, my builds really dark and the nickel gives a bit of contrast to the darkness and minimal colours

Next build (Skylake) if I can get a white MATX board I'll go either a white of black acetal + copper block


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

My Mx-4 finally came in...working on final fit and leak test. This all comes out in one "piece", like an AIO. 290X will go back in after I make sure it's leak free.


----------



## wermad

Besides sound, how good are the ap-15 vs the sp120 hp for static pressure? Sp120s @ 7v. Or even eloop.s 2300???


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Besides sound, how good are the ap-15 vs the sp120 hp for static pressure? Sp120s @ 7v. Or even eloop.s 2300???


Well my single set of AP-15s from 12v to 5v only gained about 5 - 10° I think (results are in my build log) and on 5v there pretty silent







dunno about the SP120s tho


----------



## bond32

Ap15's at 5 volts are extremely quiet and still perform well. Suppose it would depend on your radiators, you have the Monsta's correct? Bought them from the same guy I just bought a reservoir from...

Anywho, if it gives you any indication, I have a 360 and 240 Monsta's in push pull with Ap15's that run at 1000-1100 rpm which is around the 7 volt region, they keep my 3 290x's that are heavily overclocked cool. I push these upwards of 1.5 volts, power draw is around 400 watts per card. Surprisingly enough they stay cool with the fans at a constant rpm.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Besides sound, how good are the ap-15 vs the sp120 hp for static pressure? Sp120s @ 7v. Or even eloop.s 2300???


noise test comparing it:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/

noise x air flow:

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1977/ra7sstreamhvvsall.png

although the sp120 were not there....

and here comparing the GT against the h100i fan which I think it is the sp120

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/04/24/fan-testing-round-11/


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So I'm thinking of doing a slight redesign of my loop as well as getting the pressure valves and stuff

I'm gonna mount my pump/res combo back on the floor of my case (having it mounted to the rad was a good idea but in practice it was a pita, also the res was only 5mm away from the GPU so that got annoying) I'm gonna buy a Caselabs bottom mount plate to fix it to but is there any good D5 mounts that would work? needs to support the pump and 80mm res

Also thinking I'm gonna change my front rad to go into the res instead of the pump top, I know I need the Bitspower 3 port top but is there a tube or something else I need to fit into the res so it doesnt flow like a waterfall?

And one final thing, is there a way to stop the stupid cyclone in my res? its getting really annoying and is probably another reason on the long list why my loop wouldnt fill / bleed









Sorry to keep being annoying with questions and crap all the time


----------



## wermad

Thanks guys, I'll try the Sp120s. I have a window of return in case if they don't work out. The two pairs I have sounded pretty quiet w/ the 7v resistor Corsair includes. 12v was very loud, guess I'll reserve this for benching. I may drop in a 3rd 290 down the road when I jump to wqhd, but I guess I can live with a bit more noise for a bit more pressure.

@7v sp120-hp:

~1200rpm, 15.7dB, & ~1.27mm of pressure.




I need to test my fans again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> My Mx-4 finally came in...working on final fit and leak test. This all comes out in one "piece", like an AIO. 290X will go back in after I make sure it's leak free.


How do you have your jingway mounted?


----------



## jake93s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> is it one of these?


yeah, thats one of them. i think that day i had 2 r9 280's, that gtx 680 you spotted and a watercooled 780ti and some old gtx 285's on my desk


----------



## Forceman

I was working on my rig yesterday and noticed that there is something black or dark brown discoloring my GPU block (over near the VRM channel, not over the core). Can't tell if it's some kind of growth or just discoloration for some reason. I'm running pretty much a 50/50 blend of distilled and Primochill Ice, so I wouldn't think it would be biological, but I can't tell. I did recently move from overseas so the system was drained for a couple of months in a shipping container. Any way to tell what is going on without tearing the GPU block apart?

Edit: Here's a not so great picture of it.


----------



## bob808

Here's a build I recently finished that needs a good home.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How do you have your jingway mounted?


It just kind of hangs there due to proper length tubing runs. The 24-pin extension that's near it also holds it in place a bit. I had some mounting stuff for it, but it was all chrome looking stuff, and this is cleaner. I've ran it this way for several years before, just with different tubing. Also, it's likely made by Jingway, but it's actually Danger Den branded, a CPX-1 or something. Ancient pump, but it's still humming along quite nicely, and most importantly, nearly dead silent.


----------



## wermad

Interesting







. We just call em Jingway since there's quite a few branded versions (like D5 & DDC).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Besides sound, how good are the ap-15 vs the sp120 hp for static pressure? Sp120s @ 7v. Or even eloop.s 2300???


Well, this isn't static pressure, per se, but it is a measure of the amount of airflow through a rad (and noise, speed, etc) for each at comparable voltages...

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


----------



## wermad

Yup, read that review. The sp are about $6 cheaper, times twelve, the 72 bones I can invest elsewhere. Though, knowing the legendary ap15s can still be purchased is awesome. Wish those blades came in some other color. Alphacool eloops are tempting as well


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> i'll take the warning
> 
> are you such an ******* in real life or just on the forums when you get an answer to the question you asked in the only answer you can and will get?
> read the damned article and youll know what the entire system was built with and then read my first damned post with power consumption.
> or just
> buy a 7990 and tell us what it is
> 
> 
> .


Hey now... Some people(like myself) are anal retentive when it comes to power specs. Best to do the math and give them the answer than have ameltdown getting ursef banned.









If each card is capable of 375w of awesomesauce that would be a total of 1500w @ full e-peen wouldn't it?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Here's a build I recently finished that needs a good home.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sup Bob808?

That build looks pretty smaxxy.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

I spent hours listening and syncing up martins videos to compare fans and went by rpm rather than voltage. I noticed that if you went by RPM noise levels were very similar between fans, the difference was in the tone each fan made. The AP-15's tone was very soothing compared to the SP120's which seemed more like a slapping air sound.


----------



## Knight Rider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> that is one of the more beautiful posts I've seen on this thread so hopefully no one reports it as offensive.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Very nice looking build you got there buddy. Nice job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> @Knight Rider
> 
> You've got to be lying, that's way too good for your first watercooled build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It look amazing, to think that you'll only improve from that makes me eager to see what you'll do in the future


thank you guys!!

Now it's time to overcloked the beast


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey now... Some people(like myself) are anal retentive when it comes to power specs. Best to do the math and give them the answer than have ameltdown getting ursef banned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If each card is capable of 375w of awesomesauce that would be a total of 1500w @ full e-peen wouldn't it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sup Bob808?
> 
> That build looks pretty smaxxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What _is_ up Ceadder? Thanks man- I think it turned out not too bad







I'm making a quick build log for it as we speak (or type in this case)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

WOAH
Black Ice SR-2 are out now


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I spent hours listening and syncing up martins videos to compare fans and went by rpm rather than voltage. I noticed that if you went by RPM noise levels were very similar between fans, the difference was in the tone each fan made. The AP-15's tone was very soothing compared to the SP120's which seemed more like a slapping air sound.


yep. But the other thing to pay attention is that at the same rpm the gts are always pushing more air through the rad that the sp120 and at lower noise level. Example at ~43hz x 30 = 1290 rpm the GT is making 41 dba while pushing 448 fpm while the sp120 is making 402 fpm at 44.3 dba at 1281 rpm, and this difference goes all along the rpm range. But I fully understand Wermad. Is not only performance/noise but also looks and price. Personally I would love GTs with white frame and black blades for the "Chessboard" build. I even have the fans sitting here (around 16 ap15 and 4 ap14) but I lack the skill to paint them in the color I want. So I went with phanteks fans....


----------



## Nichismo

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> What _is_ up Ceadder? Thanks man- I think it turned out not too bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making a quick build log for it as we speak (or type in this case)


hey what part of Tacoma you live in? Im in Browns Point now, and I work in University Place, sometimes in the mall too.


----------



## blackfox2526

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Five HD 7990?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing that would have worried me with that setup is the one radiator for 3x HD 7990 and a 4930K ... I would have done at least 2x 480 and a 240 as a minimum, it does not surprise me that you get 65C on the GPU's with that little radiator area. 3000 rpm fans as well, then it is not quite either!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why water cool your GPU's and CPU when it still is hot and loud? I fail to see the point.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 3 fans on each HD 7990 and MSI AB with fancurve at 100%, think that would have kept it below 95C. Have not tried, but it seems weird to me that three fans at 100% fan speed could not hold that cold, one little fan held my stock air-cooled R9 290X with 100% fan speed at 78C in a not-ventilated case (I had to have a 140 mm fan blowing fresh air straight at it for it not to thermal throttle on me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as I have read the R9 290X core is the hottest AMD-core in a while, I have also read that the HD 7990 gets hot. I have stacked four R9 290X (with stock coolers) on top of each other, MSI AB with 100% fan speed and done gaming on 4K with them. That is supernova hot and louder than my car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hot and loud, you got me!
> 95C is a lot hotter than 65C, but 65C is nowhere near impressive on water, I just do not see the point doing water cooling if the components still is hot, another 480 and he would probably see 10C lower temperature average on load, push pull on the radiator(s) would also help. Maybe 65C is not hot for a 7990, but it is hot for water cooling-temperatures. Yes, I said that. As mentioned above, I have done quadfire R9 290X stacked with air cooling 100% fan speed, they are loud and hot too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it was on air I would have been surprised, but water cooled and 65C ... I say no more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normal is below 50C even on highly overclocked GPU's.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 3x 7990 plus a 4930k on a 480 rad.
> 6x gpu plus a 4930k on a single 480 rad.
> ive also never seen a 3000 rpm magma fan either. that means 4x 1800rpm fans pushing through an rx480 to cool 6x 7970 and a 4930k.
> 65*C on the gpu's. cooler and quieter than stock air cooling


*Project RedHashCats:*
well actually they are 2 identical systems each has 3 7990 !!!!!!
I mentioned it first but for some reason i edit my post to not make anybody misunderstanding!!!!!
Ok.... you are all completely 100% right *if* these were gaming rig in my bedroom !!! *but* they are for some research institute which developing new hash algorithm and they want to testing them under brute force attack like hashcat.
the client at first doesn't want to watercool these monsters but when under load they reach 105 C degree and crash the software they agreed to pay a little more for watercooling.
the budget was tight and at the moment we can't get any other case like 900D or etc !!! imagine 2 system like this and you have watercool them in a week!
likely they agreed to use these machines in a very cold room with just 5 C temp and two 40.000 BTU chiller constantly running !!!!
The noctua fans was a great help and push a lot of air. I mean a lot !!!
Under these conditions we can maintain max 65 C temp on every system after 24 hours of running and I'm telling you this hashcat software push these cards like no other software can do !!!!
we choose 480 rad because that was the only option we had at the moment and yes if we had the budget and component and time we could turn these bad boys to real silent cool monsters.
As i said before these machines is gonna use for research purposes not playing farcry4 @ 4K !!!!


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> hey what part of Tacoma you live in? Im in Browns Point now, and I work in University Place, sometimes in the mall too.


I'm on S. 56th street, just a couple miles from the mall.


----------



## CaliLife17

What are the best Low Profile Quick Disconnects you can buy? I am using Primochill Advanced LRT, at 1/2 x 3/4 tubing. I am thinking of adding QDC to my build im about to start (STH10 should be getting delivered today).

I will be upgrading to 980 Classys once EK releases blocks, and I normally upgrade GPU's 1-2 times a year, so I am trying to plan ahead. I was thinking of adding QDC going into my GPU block, and then depending on space and size, either another QDC right after the GPU block going to the CPU, or if its too tight a bend, i will instead put it after the CPU going to the upper chamber to the Radiators. (Probably wont upgrade my 5960x as often)

Looking at PPCS it looks like Koolance dominates this area (I am using Bitspower compression fittings on rest of the build). Would the black QD4's be the best?


----------



## ThornTwist

Take a look at my rig a You'll see I have 3x Corsair Air Series SP120 (CO-9050012-WW) PWM Quit Edition High Static Pressure Fan (Twin Pack) and they are fantastic. I was getting some crazy good temps even with a Corsair H70 in push pull and they are the real deal. I don't have anything bad to say about them at all.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> What are the best Low Profile Quick Disconnects you can buy? I am using Primochill Advanced LRT, at 1/2 x 3/4 tubing. I am thinking of adding QDC to my build im about to start (STH10 should be getting delivered today).
> 
> I will be upgrading to 980 Classys once EK releases blocks, and I normally upgrade GPU's 1-2 times a year, so I am trying to plan ahead. I was thinking of adding QDC going into my GPU block, and then depending on space and size, either another QDC right after the GPU block going to the CPU, or if its too tight a bend, i will instead put it after the CPU going to the upper chamber to the Radiators. (Probably wont upgrade my 5960x as often)
> 
> Looking at PPCS it looks like Koolance dominates this area (I am using Bitspower compression fittings on rest of the build). Would the black QD4's be the best?


there is a thread about those koolance QD blacks with people having some problems with it...You might want to check that before making a decision.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners

Is it something you can solve by using one of these?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14596/ex-tub-1035/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Matte_Black_BP-MVV-MBKBK.html?tl=g30c101s460


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> there is a thread about those koolance QD blacks with people having some problems with it...You might want to check that before making a decision.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners
> 
> Is it something you can solve by using one of these?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14596/ex-tub-1035/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Matte_Black_BP-MVV-MBKBK.html?tl=g30c101s460


Problem with the mini Valve is I still need to disconnect the tubing and the valve wont block the coolant on both ends (Since I would have to unplug Tubing from one end). Since i would be removing GPU's It needs to contain the coolant on both sides. That is why QDC would work as you can easily unplug them and swap stuff around.

I will have to take a look at that thread for the Koolance. I don't really care what manufacturer the QDC are from, I just want to buy whatever one is the best and will work without problems. Hoping people have had some experience here.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yup, read that review. The sp are about $6 cheaper, times twelve, the 72 bones I can invest elsewhere. Though, knowing the legendary ap15s can still be purchased is awesome. Wish those blades came in some other color. Alphacool eloops are tempting as well


If you can wait ek has some new ap15 wannabe fans coming. Even 140mm size later on. It was on Facebook today and I think there is a thread about them here already.

Edit: thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15


----------



## somerandombloke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> What are the best Low Profile Quick Disconnects you can buy? I am using Primochill Advanced LRT, at 1/2 x 3/4 tubing. I am thinking of adding QDC to my build im about to start (STH10 should be getting delivered today).
> 
> I will be upgrading to 980 Classys once EK releases blocks, and I normally upgrade GPU's 1-2 times a year, so I am trying to plan ahead. I was thinking of adding QDC going into my GPU block, and then depending on space and size, either another QDC right after the GPU block going to the CPU, or if its too tight a bend, i will instead put it after the CPU going to the upper chamber to the Radiators. (Probably wont upgrade my 5960x as often)
> 
> Looking at PPCS it looks like Koolance dominates this area (I am using Bitspower compression fittings on rest of the build). Would the black QD4's be the best?


Koolance QD4 are huge. I using two of them on my radiator. Its longer than 50mm since it extends past my the fan and shroud together. I would suggest these Swiftech Lok-Seal. They are the most compact quick disconnects that I know off. The only thing is that you will have to buy the appropriate end caps for them, but with the QD4, you also need to buy an adapter to make it compatible with G1/4 threads.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Problem with the mini Valve is I still need to disconnect the tubing and the valve wont block the coolant on both ends (Since I would have to unplug Tubing from one end). Since i would be removing GPU's It needs to contain the coolant on both sides. That is why QDC would work as you can easily unplug them and swap stuff around.
> 
> I will have to take a look at that thread for the Koolance. I don't really care what manufacturer the QDC are from, I just want to buy whatever one is the best and will work without problems. Hoping people have had some experience here.


you might want to check this out too:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/07/02/2013-quick-disconnect-roundup/


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you might want to check this out too:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/07/02/2013-quick-disconnect-roundup/


Excellent. I was needing something like this and it will work perfectly.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If you can wait ek has some new ap15 wannabe fans coming. Even 140mm size later on. It was on Facebook today and I think there is a thread about them here already.
> 
> Edit: thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15


Looks like they're not og Nidec







. Another swiftech helix?


----------



## emsj86

I use the corsair sp120 5 in total on a 360 and 240. I have them set at. 7v. And they work great and I don't notice any sound unless I put a mic right up to the rad. They do the job for me and look nice. I do wish I got the white neloops bc I love the looks of them


----------



## wermad

The gorgeous eloops unfortunately can only be mounted in push. From what I read, the blades protrude.

Thanks for your input on the sp120s. Im getting my rads this weekend and I can do some testing.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The gorgeous eloops unfortunately can only be mounted in push. From what I read, the blades protrude.
> 
> Thanks for your input on the sp120s. Im getting my rads this weekend and I can do some testing.


Why not put a gasket on it to raise the fan a little off? It might make the performance wonky, but it might be worth it. Plus it'd seal the fan better since they aren't completely square like a typical fan.

-Zepp


----------



## wermad

True that


----------



## Nichismo

I am FINALLY finished!!




















hey uh...

how do I create a spoiler again??


----------



## Jorvin

here are my latest rebuild of my rig


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I am FINALLY finished!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hey uh...
> 
> how do I create a spoiler again??


Very nice.

[ spoiler ] text, image, video whatev [ / spoiler]


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> here are my latest rebuild of my rig


Killer red blue. Very clean and sharp.


----------



## Jorvin

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThornTwist*





Killer red blue. Very clean and sharp.
Thanks







cant wait for next year, planing to uppgrade with new hardware and 3 sli.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Almost ready to fill it up. Getting there on Chessboard. Just made the cpu cable pass through:


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Why not put a gasket on it to raise the fan a little off? It might make the performance wonky, but it might be worth it. Plus it'd seal the fan better since they aren't completely square like a typical fan.
> 
> -Zepp


Eloops don't seem to like being used in pull either way, the ones I have mounted as front intake are close to a dustfilter and tend to resonate at parts of the rpm range, while the ones inside don't.

It might just be the ones I own, but those are my findings.


----------



## VSG

Yeah it depends on the gap you have between the blades and the filter/heatsink/radiator. I have only had this with a few rads so far, been good with most of them.


----------



## Vintage

God... Caselabs cases are so beautiful!

Sweet build!


----------



## snef

finally done my update on Bloody Angel


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> finally done my update on Bloody Angel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


damn that put my rig to shame, nice work


----------



## VSG

He puts most rigs to shame, I've come to accept that


----------



## snef

Thanks


----------



## catbuster

Rly epic snef







love the colour ratio


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> finally done my update on Bloody Angel
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Absolutely stunning like usual, love it.

Those betfinix fans really make the entire build pop, looks incredible


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> finally done my update on Bloody Angel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very well done, one of the most aesthetics beautiful rigs on OCN for sure.







I have been looking through your build-log as well, very inspiring!


----------



## snef

Thanks Guys, very appreciate


----------



## emsj86

Newegg has amd r295x2 for 679.99. If your nt fully watercooling that is a steal I'd get that over a 980 if I could custom water cool it


----------



## LeSwede

I recently acquired one of these



It works really well on my i5 3570K. I get like 40c max load @3.9Ghz. Much better compared to the stock cooler which was 80c xD If I run my CPU @4.6Ghz I get like 60c ish which is very acceptable for me








And it look fabulous as well!


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> finally done my update on Bloody Angel
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WOW. That is absolutely stunning. Too cool for school is all I have to say about it.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So I'm thinking of doing a slight redesign of my loop as well as getting the pressure valves and stuff
> 
> I'm gonna mount my pump/res combo back on the floor of my case (having it mounted to the rad was a good idea but in practice it was a pita, also the res was only 5mm away from the GPU so that got annoying) I'm gonna buy a Caselabs bottom mount plate to fix it to but is there any good D5 mounts that would work? needs to support the pump and 80mm res
> 
> Also thinking I'm gonna change my front rad to go into the res instead of the pump top, I know I need the Bitspower 3 port top but is there a tube or something else I need to fit into the res so it doesnt flow like a waterfall?
> 
> And one final thing, is there a way to stop the stupid cyclone in my res? its getting really annoying and is probably another reason on the long list why my loop wouldnt fill / bleed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to keep being annoying with questions and crap all the time


Bump any help?


----------



## emsj86

Is ok to get bitspower silver 3 way tee if I have all copper rads/blocks with my gpu being nickel. Or our these fittings even silver or just silver in color? Sorry maybe a dumb question but unsure. I want to buy one to add a bp mini valve for a drain


----------



## VSG

Not real silver, you will be fine. Just different coating on the fittings to give a silver finish. Some use nickel, others zinc.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I am FINALLY finished!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hey uh...
> 
> how do I create a spoiler again??


Very nice looking build you got there.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorvin*
> 
> here are my latest rebuild of my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build you got there. That glow looks marvelous. lol







Is that mayhems UV blue?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> finally done my update on Bloody Angel
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice as well, white always brings a touch of class.


----------



## ThornTwist

Man is it just me or is there an explosion of crazy cool builds going on. I apologize if I sound stupid. I'm pretty new to the whole PC building thing and even newer to overclock.net so don't really know how this stuff usually goes.


----------



## lowfat

I almost always dislike acylic work using angle fittings but that looks really good @snef. Why don't other people do a symmetrical solution w/ the cpu and ram blocks like you did?


----------



## Gabrielzm

This shot is for @Wermad and @lowfat. I known you guys like green







Filling up Chessboard loops and before turning the liquid to final color decided to take a shot:


----------



## VSG

Amazing! I am still looking forward to that unique green/grey pastel color though.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Amazing! I am still looking forward to that unique green/grey pastel color though.


Thks a lot VSG







. Lot's of cable management to do still and just finishing filling up and bleeding as we speak. I used the Aurora 2 and turning it to grey right now. Honestly I think I like more my original green/grey pastel but will finish the build with the Aurora 2 and latter most likely switch back to pastel.

A little tease:


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I almost always dislike acylic work using angle fittings but that looks really good @snef. Why don't other people do a symmetrical solution w/ the cpu and ram blocks like you did?


because they tried it and it didnt look good probably, or they are using more than the 3 blocks hes got there. For that particular setup, he pulled it off perfectly. You and me have literally opposite opinions. I cant stand bent acrylic. Very rarely do I think it looks good, if such, its gotta be with 16mm tubing, and absolute flawless attention to detail with the symmetry and angles. It just seems overwhelming majority of the time I see them, they look extremely tacky and makeshift, a farcry from a well put together loop with fittings at the angles and great routing.the fittings create an industrial, streamlined, mechanized look that I absolutely love. I never go with anything too flashly, subtle is always better in my opinion, at least when it comes to PC aesthetics.

to each their own, but Robocop was the only time I thought that 90 degree angles with that many blocks in such a small vicinity looked good, and he had 2 inlets/outlets toward the configuration whereas most of the time its just one inlet/outlet.

ill have the rest of my tubing at 90 degree angles for the most part, but im a big fan of Singularity Computers and I follow the philosophy in their videos to the tee. Their builds are just absolute perfection in my opinion, just the overall feel and vibe of the systems are always pulled off perfectly, as people who arent even interested in Performance computers could still appreciate from the sheer appeal from elegance and function.

this last part is honestly a little elitist, but theres also a sense of craftsmanship and perplexity to really upholding consistent angles in these loops, I just feel a slight air of extra respect for a build that executed it well. Just the two outlets in my build that are leaving the pump/res combos took a ridiculous amount of work, and it was very frustrating. Ive used 12mm tubing everywhere in my build except for those two channels in which I used 16, they are in full frontal view and it was extremely important to me to get the an absolute mirror, not just in perfect 90 degrees but also the fittings being used and such. I couldnt believe how little it would take to have a noticable flaw, and I was constantly looking from different positions. One is hard enough but when theres two right next to each other, one can really throw off your perception of the 2nd. it was seriously beginning to drive me insane.

But dont take any of that the wrong way, lol I tend to get overzealous in discussions like this, I simply enjoy it alot.


----------



## X-Nine

Finding blocks that will match up perfectly from CPU to GPU is insanely hard. If they were all measured out evenly, then everyone would easily be able to make 90 degree, even bends from CPU to GPU. Turns out, most gpu blocks and cpu blocks don't work out that way.


----------



## sebkow

I dont if anyone is aware of an American Holiday coming up and this is coming..

My Wallet is ready


----------



## tictoc

I was going to wait, until I relocated my res and installed the backplates on my GPUs, to post my latest build in this thread, but it is going to be a while before I have time to redo the loop.









With ambient temps at 16-17ºC, radiator fans at 1500 RPM, exhaust fan at 1000 RPM, both GPUs and 4790k at 100% load; temps are: 56ºC on the GPUs, 66ºC on the 4790k.

The a10-7700k doesn't really add any noticeable load to the wc loop. Running IBT on the a10 does not raise my GPU or CPU temps on the 4790k. Overall I am pretty satisfied with the performance.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Finding blocks that will match up perfectly from CPU to GPU is insanely hard. If they were all measured out evenly, then everyone would easily be able to make 90 degree, even bends from CPU to GPU. Turns out, most gpu blocks and cpu blocks don't work out that way.


Funny thing I discovered the other day, the blocks aren't always the issue with these lining up issues. Using my Z87X-OC board with my EK supremacy and 770 full cover, they didn't exactly line up and had to make my bend with a slight offset which made the tube look kind of wonky and fat. But now I'm using an ASUS Z97 sabertooth and I am able to make a nice 90 bend that fits perfectly. But yeah, no one has the time to trial an error all the different blocks and board to find which line up the best for the cleanest bends/ runs. Maybe that should be a thread, the "Clean run compatibility" thread


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Newegg has amd r295x2 for 679.99. If your nt fully watercooling that is a steal I'd get that over a 980 if I could custom water cool it


I do believe you can custom watercool it. For example:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-295x2.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-295x2-acetal.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-295x2-nickel.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Newegg has amd r295x2 for 679.99. If your nt fully watercooling that is a steal I'd get that over a 980 if I could custom water cool it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Newegg has amd r295x2 for 679.99. If your nt fully watercooling that is a steal I'd get that over a 980 if I could custom water cool it
> 
> 
> 
> I do believe you can custom watercool it. For example:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-295x2.html
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-295x2-acetal.html
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-295x2-nickel.html
Click to expand...

Yup. No excuse not to get that R295 x2 card now.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tracti

Ok might not be the right place but i thought i would throw it out there. I have a Nepton 280 at the moment but been thinking about putting a thick core Rad on it and some new plumbing. Was thinking EK Coolstream 240, XSPC RX240 or a Monsta Nexxos 240. Thoughts, was looking for an easy WC setup rather than a Full setup


----------



## Gabrielzm

8% OFF on any order over $50: "BKFRI14-8"
9% OFF on any order over $500: "BKFRI14-9"

PPC codes for BF.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Finding blocks that will match up perfectly from CPU to GPU is insanely hard. If they were all measured out evenly, then everyone would easily be able to make 90 degree, even bends from CPU to GPU. Turns out, most gpu blocks and cpu blocks don't work out that way.
> 
> 
> 
> Funny thing I discovered the other day, the blocks aren't always the issue with these lining up issues. Using my Z87X-OC board with my EK supremacy and 770 full cover, they didn't exactly line up and had to make my bend with a slight offset which made the tube look kind of wonky and fat. But now I'm using an ASUS Z97 sabertooth and I am able to make a nice 90 bend that fits perfectly. But yeah, no one has the time to trial an error all the different blocks and board to find which line up the best for the cleanest bends/ runs. Maybe that should be a thread, the "Clean run compatibility" thread
Click to expand...

Ah, you are probably correct that it's the CPU placement as well that determines the fitment.


----------



## lowfat

If gpus had side mounted ports, acrylic work to the cpu would be significantly easier.


----------



## snef

Thanks Lowfat,

and im with Lowfat on this

always a path or design exist to do it clean, sometime is not easy


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> I dont if anyone is aware of an American Holiday coming up and this is coming..
> 
> My Wallet is ready


I'm excited about this!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 8% OFF on any order over $50: "BKFRI14-8"
> 9% OFF on any order over $500: "BKFRI14-9"
> 
> PPC codes for BF.


I'm so glad waited!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 8% OFF on any order over $50: "BKFRI14-8"
> 9% OFF on any order over $500: "BKFRI14-9"
> 
> PPC codes for BF.










Yup, and they have a big "up to 75% off" sale going on too, though I should mention the codes are only good for non-sale items.

FWIW, MODDIY has something similar going on also with a big sale and a 14% off code ...


Spoiler: MODDIY Black Friday


----------



## TTheuns

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Would you look at that.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you look at that.


Sweet!


----------



## zzorro

my Old School Work Station.. D


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Very nice looking build you got there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice build you got there. That glow looks marvelous. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that mayhems UV blue?
> Very nice as well, white always brings a touch of class.


no it's ekwb uv blue.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Neggy has a busy weekend ahead....


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tictoc*
> 
> snip


i love it








i have a softspot for 2 system builds, something about them to me is so cool


----------



## Lionheart1980

Has anyone seen the new Hardware Rads?? are they any good?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Neggy has a busy weekend ahead....


Um... something else was in this post when I saw it. I couldn't immediately find the item in question referenced in google land. Very curious.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Neggy has a busy weekend ahead....
> 
> 
> 
> Um... something else was in this post when I saw it. I couldn't immediately find the item in question referenced in google land. Very curious.
Click to expand...

Because NDA is a biatch.....

I had to pull the other photo down.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Has anyone seen the new Hardware Rads?? are they any good?


Which ones?


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Which ones?


The Nemesis and SR2... are they any good or better than Monsta? with my original plan... the Alphacool Monsta? I know Alphacool are dirty rads and needed to be clean & flushed before using.. other reason i like Alphacool is 7 ports for so much flexiblity..


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> The Nemesis and SR2... are they any good or better than Monsta? with my original plan... the Alphacool Monsta? I know Alphacool are dirty rads and needed to be clean & flushed before using.. other reason i like Alphacool is 7 ports for so much flexiblity..


Check out the quad rad roundup in my sig. If you are going push-pull then the Monsta will likely fare better than how it did in my testing. SR-2 is similar to Nemesis GTS thermal performance wise.


----------



## Wireline

The builds here are so beautiful it has inspired me to look into a water loop for my rig. @Snef, that is way more than a rig, its art to me







Thats what has made me want to do my own


----------



## Trestles126

Got my icemod sleeved cables in turned out great


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know ill be doing sleeved extensions for the desk to allow ease of mobility if and when I have to move the desk once it's together.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...788EE128-1DB2-4399-8A7A-E2F1261B36C2.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my icemod sleeved cables in turned out great


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*


Great job! This will be a job for me down the road as well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

yeah I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on some Ensourced Cables for the Desk build (mainly just extensions)







http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/
Acid Purple:  Gray Scale:


----------



## Santury

Hi @ all

I' have Build and Sleeved my Rig.

I took some pics and post it here the day


----------



## Ceadderman

*C'mon guys...*

Let's keep this on point. I don't have a problem talking about sleeving but at least keep the thread on point.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question, can 7/16ID 5/8OD tube be used on 3/8 ID and 5/8OD barbs? (asking for a friend)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question, can 7/16ID 5/8OD tube be used on *3/8 ID and 5/8OD barbs*? (asking for a friend)












Most barbs are 3/8" (10mm) and 1/2"(13mm). For a tight and sometimes clamp-free setup, some folks go w/ 1/2" barbs with 7/16" ID tube. Though, i hear its a pita to put on and off (dipping in hot water or silicone grease can help).

Are you going w/ barbs or compression fittings (or acrylic)??? Compression are specific, so you'll need 7/16x5/8 compression fittings for that tube.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most barbs are 3/8" (10mm) and 1/2"(13mm). For a tight and sometimes clamp-free setup, some folks go w/ 1/2" barbs with 7/16" ID tube. Though, i hear its a pita to put on and off (dipping in hot water or silicone grease can help).
> 
> Are you going w/ barbs or compression fittings (or acrylic)??? Compression are specific, so you'll need 7/16x5/8 compression fittings for that tube.


I'm asking for a friend, they wanted to buy the spare 7/16" tube I had, dont think they wanna buy new barbs and stuff lol

Hes using barbs, can you just clamp the tube on or would it still not be tight enough?


----------



## wermad

It depends on the barbs. IF they were fat/high-flow ones, he might get away with it as long as he has a proper clamp. Personally, I wouldn't risk it just to save a few notes.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It depends on the barbs. IF they were fat/high-flow ones, he might get away with it as long as he has a proper clamp. Personally, I wouldn't risk it just to save a few notes.


Proper clamp? like a 3/8" one or something?


----------



## pc-illiterate

most people slip 7/16 id over i assume 1/2 od barbs. i would still use a clamp as a safety precaution.

my brain needed to work a minute.
a 3/8 barb is 3/8 od. i have never seen a 5/8 od BARB before. a 3/8 x 5/8 fitting is going to be a compression fitting.


----------



## wermad

the clamp you want for the od of the tube. A worm (jubilee) clamp works great, but may not look aesthetically pleasing (black may be a bit ok). There's fancy wc clamps, but for this amount of money your friend will invest in these, might as well get the proper hardware.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> most people slip *7/16 id over i assume 1/2 od barbs*. i would still use a clamp as a safety precaution.


I did that







dont even need a clamp
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> the clamp you want for the od of the tube. A worm (jubilee) clamp works great, but may not look aesthetically pleasing (black may be a bit ok). There's fancy wc clamps, but for this amount of money your friend will invest in these, might as well get the proper hardware.


Ok cool thanks









I know about the fancy ones, I bought 12 of them, cost me $55


----------



## ThornTwist

Anyone know how to keep tubes form permakinking? It seems once I solve one of them, there is one that pops up in a different spot. So much twisting. I don't think I'm doing it right.


----------



## Ceadderman

Really depends on the barbs being used. I have connected my .5 inch ID tubing to my Bitspower barbs w/o issue in clampless setup. My BP barbs are triple barbed, so once my LRT was fully seated it was leak free.

As long as his barbs are like my BP barbs and .5 OD then he Shie be okay. Although he could clamp the tube to the barbs with offsetting zipties.









Yes I mean half inch.

~Ceadder


----------



## GringoKillah1

Comrades, anybody know any water cooling shops in Europe(And even better if in the UK)? Except - HighFlow, SpecialTech, Aquatuning and EKWB...
I Need components for my build but my favorite shop SpecialTech stop delivering to my country


----------



## Ceadderman

Have u looked @ performance-pcs.com?

They do ship out of the US to some overseas locales.

~Ceadder


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have u looked @ performance-pcs.com?
> 
> They do ship out of the US to some overseas locales.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thx for answer









But for me USA shops not variant because of high shipping price to my country + long time shipping. For example - lowest price shipping from USA i paid almost like for the fastest shipping from EKWB but i need to wait for my package 3-4 weeks.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Comrades, anybody know any water cooling shops in Europe(And even better if in the UK)? Except - HighFlow, SpecialTech, Aquatuning and EKWB...
> I Need components for my build but my favorite shop SpecialTech stop delivering to my country


You could try Kustom pc, Scan, overclockersuk, watercoolinguk, C &C central, The watercooling shop, the coolingshop.com, Aquatuning and EKWB have their own web shop. I don't know how many of these ship to Ukraine. Aquatuning is Europe wide and EKWB are based in Slovenia, hopefully you will have luck with one of them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Comrades, anybody know any water cooling shops in Europe(And even better if in the UK)? Except - HighFlow, SpecialTech, Aquatuning and EKWB...
> I Need components for my build but my favorite shop SpecialTech stop delivering to my country


Send Specialtech an email,its a new site and it may have been overlooked,tell them B NEG sent you.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> You could try Kustom pc, Scan, overclockersuk, watercoolinguk, C &C central, The watercooling shop, the coolingshop.com, Aquatuning and EKWB have their own web shop. I don't know how many of these ship to Ukraine. Aquatuning is Europe wide and EKWB are based in Slovenia, hopefully you will have luck with one of them.


Thanks you werry much, seems like from all this shops (except EKWB and Aquatuning) only TheCoolingShop shipping to Ukraine, but need to it is solve the question about VAT


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Thanks you werry much, seems like from all this shops (except EKWB and Aquatuning) only TheCoolingShop shipping to Ukraine, but need to it is solve the question about VAT


Don't quote me on this. But I believe as you are buying outside outside of the UK that you either don't pay VAT or you can claim it back. I know foreign visitors to UK can claim back the VAT(20%) for purchases made while they are in the UK.

Found this. It might help to explain tax regs for non EU customers.
https://www.gov.uk/vat-consumers/taxfree-shopping


----------



## GringoKillah1

The problem is - I can only pay using paypal, but i can't return money back on my PayPal account. PayPal works just in one side - "it Ukraine comrade"


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> The problem is - I can only pay using paypal, but i can't return money back on my PayPal account. PayPal works just in one side - "it Ukraine comrade"


Looks like a refund on the VAT is out anyway.

Goods you can't get a refund for

You can't get VAT refunds for:

mail order goods, including internet sales

looks like you have to physically buy it in the UK to get the VAT off.


----------



## electro2u

Was able to completely erase the scratches I put in my R4BE acrylic monoblock using sandpaper and then polishing for about an hour with Novus scratch remover. Awesome!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Thx for answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But for me USA shops not variant because of high shipping price to my country + long time shipping. For example - lowest price shipping from USA i paid almost like for the fastest shipping from EKWB but i need to wait for my package 3-4 weeks.


PPC is shipping via DHL too. I got my stuff in Brazil in 2-3 days after they ship instead of the regular 2-4 weeks.


----------



## slyrunner

Now All i have to do is order my msi 970 gaming sli, and this rig will be complete!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> The problem is - I can only pay using paypal, but i can't return money back on my PayPal account. PayPal works just in one side - "it Ukraine comrade"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a refund on the VAT is out anyway.
> 
> Goods you can't get a refund for
> 
> You can't get VAT refunds for:
> 
> mail order goods, including internet sales
> 
> looks like you have to physically buy it in the UK to get the VAT off.
Click to expand...

Not true,ST deduct VAT for non EU customers if the registered address is non EU.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,ST deduct VAT for non EU customers if the registered address is non EU.


Yes, just like was in old SpecialTech!








are you see my pm?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i finally ordered my fans and my last 480 raditor.. black ice nemesis gtx 480 was on sale for 146$ last night when I was ordering my fleet of AP-31s(i have a old timey powersupply with amp output control I am going to use to control their speed. and Ill be able to monitor cuz they have a handy dandy RPM wire.
OIPE and i got a dual serial EK bridge for my 780Ti classys for Side B of my RH build

now I am just waiting for the RVE monoblock and I think I have all the watercooling components I need to get my desk up finally. - the aesthetic additions of course, those are going to take time and work


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i finally ordered my fans and my last 480 raditor.. black ice nemesis gtx 480 was on sale for 146$ last night when I was ordering my fleet of AP-31s(i have a old timey powersupply with amp output control I am going to use to control their speed. and Ill be able to monitor cuz they have a handy dandy RPM wire.
> OIPE and i got a dual serial EK bridge for my 780Ti classys for Side B of my RH build
> 
> now I am just waiting for the RVE monoblock and I think I have all the watercooling components I need to get my desk up finally. - the aesthetic additions of course, those are going to take time and work


AP-31's?














There is an easy PWM mod that you can do to turn the fans into 4-pin PWM-controlled fans. The circuit is all there (at least it was), you just need to solder on the extra wire and swap for a 4-pin connector. There's a thread somewhere on here about doing it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> AP-31's?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is an easy PWM mod that you can do to turn the fans into 4-pin PWM-controlled fans. The circuit is all there (at least it was), you just need to solder on the extra wire and swap for a 4-pin connector. There's a thread somewhere on here about doing it.


Yep, I remember that too:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1045524/gentle-typhoon-pwm-mod

BTW you can still buy nidec 1800 rpm and 1450 models with PWM from China (aliexpress).







Ouch...quite expensive... Just checked:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-SERVO-PC-12CM-sickle-Gentle-Typhoon-PWM-Quiet-Cooling-Fan-GT1850/1128070724.html

US$ 60,00


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,ST deduct VAT for non EU customers if the registered address is non EU.


Hurrah for specialtech. It just shows what a nice bunch of guys they are. Also for me, the only UK computer store that had a proper black friday sale on. Took full advantage of their Black50 discount and bagged an alphacool UT60 360 for half price. Nice one guys


----------



## tatmMRKIV

oh crap I might have to try that out.
I know I will never need to turn it past 4000-5000 anyways so a few hundred rpm difference is negligable

Problem is they are all coming sleeved from performance with black with red tracer so I will have to see how much of a poain itd be to add that wire to the whole system...
plus I got 28fans.. thats gonna take a long time and I haven't soldered before so I'd rather not risk damaging them
WOW
NEVERMIND screw you performance PCS
they only have 4

what the hell am i going to do with 4?! I have 2 480 rads and 2 360 rads


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> oh crap I might have to try that out.
> I know I will never need to turn it past 4000-5000 anyways so a few hundred rpm difference is negligable
> 
> Problem is they are all coming sleeved from performance with black with red tracer so I will have to see how much of a poain itd be to add that wire to the whole system...
> plus I got 28fans.. thats gonna take a long time and I haven't soldered before so I'd rather not risk damaging them
> WOW
> NEVERMIND screw you performance PCS
> they only have 4
> 
> what the hell am i going to do with 4?! I have 2 480 rads and 2 360 rads


Coolerguys has AP-30's (4250rpm)? Besides, with that much rad space you shouldnt need fans that fast anyway. Imho of course.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

link?

I have 2 systems being cooled
one 4930k and geting a 5960x soon...

do they have 28 though?

2 780TI classys on one
and waiting on a few more gpus for the other


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html

edit:
Don't know what kind of stock they have. You'd have to find that out for yourself.

They do seem to have a rather large new stock of the 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons (formerly Scythe's AP-15s) though and they're really the only place that has them that I'm aware of that isn't price gouging like crazy.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

thanks, i was searching ap-31 ap-30 and gentle typhoon and nothing came up


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> thanks, i was searching ap-31 ap-30 and gentle typhoon and nothing came up


Yeah they are hurting themselves by having 'GentleTyphoon' as one word so it's making them hard to find. Searching their site for 'Gentle Typhoon' doesn't work.

If you are going to go with the high speed GTs then you really ought to consider doing the PWM mod to them. The AP-30 is a beast of a fan with a min operating voltage of 10.2 volts which will run them about ~1300rpm slowest speeds they can get to before they stop. The 'high speed application' Gentle Typhoons (AP-29, AP-30, AP-31) are rather loud fans and can't be voltage controlled very low / very quiet. Heck, even an 1850rpm AP-15 at full speed is too loud for most people's tastes (too loud for me when you have a bunch of them on rads - thankfully I've found little-to-no need temp-wise to ever run them full speed), and that's right about the lowest noise level you will be able to get from AP-30. At least with PWM you would be able to bring the speeds down a little bit lower.

Or get some 1850rpm GTs instead.


----------



## Archea47

Did they stop making the AP29? I have a couple and was thinking of converting the whole rig to them ...

If I already have two running at 3000RPM would 5 be that much louder?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well I placed the order. and I will probably do the PWM mod down the line after I find out that my PSU doesn't make them as quiet as I'd like.

they are going to be behind 1/3' tempered glass and a few layers of metal though so I think I am going to have a little more sound dampening than most with the RH desk and I will add some noise dampening materials down the line probably

I dunno I am buying audiophile headphones for myself this xmas so i shouldn't be hearing much noise from the fans

Obviously at a certain level the rpm=noise vs actually cooling will start to plateau so I won't really be using them that fast most of the time. I really just want to have the high rpm for when I am benching or gaming cuz those

i ordered them (ap-30s) off coolerguys though hopefully they have them in stock


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,ST deduct VAT for non EU customers if the registered address is non EU.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, just like was in old SpecialTech!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are you see my pm?
Click to expand...

Yup,leave it with me,I will speak to the team.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,ST deduct VAT for non EU customers if the registered address is non EU.
> 
> 
> 
> Hurrah for specialtech. It just shows what a nice bunch of guys they are. Also for me, the only UK computer store that had a proper black friday sale on. Took full advantage of their Black50 discount and bagged an alphacool UT60 360 for half price. Nice one guys
Click to expand...

Specialtech is an enthusiast run store,its not all about the profit margin.

Stoked you got a result on a rad,there was/are some bargains to be had


----------



## khemist

I got five of the Noctua industrial 2000rpm fans from them at half price also, would never have bought them at full price.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you have the time then give me a vote on Bit tech MOTM?

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=279969

GWF!


----------



## DarthBaggins

looks like voting is closed


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I got five of the Noctua industrial 2000rpm fans from them at half price also, would never have bought them at full price.


how did you manage that?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> how did you manage that?


50% off today, they are sold out now, should have bought all seven really.


----------



## emsj86

A month or so back ncix believe it or not had those noctua a for 15.99 per


----------



## tatmMRKIV

dang the lowest i ever saw was amazon's
http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-NF-F12-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRATC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1417209183&sr=8-4&keywords=Noctua+NF-F12
25$


----------



## khemist

£12 each i paid, there was a bunch of stuff i had in my basket but couldn't justify it but i'll be using these in my next loop for sure.


----------



## emsj86

Yeh but ncix kills you with shipping


----------



## DarthBaggins

That they do and they wont allow me to buy more than 2 of the Noctua Industrial NF-F12 (2000RPM's)







I wanted to snag 4 or possibly 8


----------



## VSG

For those who don't venture much outside this thread (personally guilty for a while as well) : http://www.overclock.net/t/1526779/user-review-of-the-swiftech-h220-x/0_50


----------



## GrimDoctor

I have a Asus Maximus VII Hero and the front base running all Noctuas off the headers. I also have the Front Base. They all run perfectly fine in PWM as long as you set it in the UEFI.

As for the Front Base, there has been a firmware update for it for about 6 months to allow proper control and monitoring via the FB on a Z97 board.

Like most motherboard the PWM is accurate unless use splitters your header, as this splits the voltage. Solution, get a splitter with a 12v input like the Gelid 4 way - I'm running 3 of them with 10 fans grouped as front, top, cpu and they work with full control and proper rpm when using a powered splitter.

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2264309/


----------



## khemist

Just grabbed an Alphacool D5 vario for £27 also.. no more spending!.


----------



## ThornTwist

Nothing too impressive but I just finished phase 1 of my build.


----------



## fakeblood

Done...for now

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02702_zpsd68f1b51.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02717_zps826c1482.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02711_zps7085f522.jpg.html


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Done...for now
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02702_zpsd68f1b51.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02717_zps826c1482.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02711_zps7085f522.jpg.html


Nicely done man, you fit it all in well


----------



## shremi

Guys i would love to get your input on this situation ......

I recently upgraded my build .... switched the case switched to dual MCP50X instead of the 655s .... now for the cooling

My previous build was using 1/2 3/4 tubing with dual MCP 655s 1 360 RAD in push and another rad 240mm rad in p/p

My new build is using acrylic E22 i changed moved the 360 RAD and also added p/p configuration also moved the 240 rad only in push using my case fans they are 140mm fans btw but i dont know if that should be a problem i also changed the reservoir to a larger XSPC photon 270 and i added a XT45 420 Rad with p/p configuration ... for the life of me i can understand why my temps are higher in this build than in my previous one ..... I kept the same blocks for both the cpu and the GPU .... For example my 980s are getting load temps while a couple of runs in heaven of 52 or 53 C which are completely worse and the cpu is also hotter than before seems ridicioulus since i added a 420 rad to the system

Here is a picture of the build



Also i have changed the top port on the GPUs to the left something like this



The flow of the build is like this

From the reservoir→to the back of the case where i have dual MCP50X→ To the front rad → To the bottom rad → GPU → Top Rad → CPU → Back to the reservoir

Oh and i dont know if this has to be the culprit of the problem but the top radiator was painted with plastidip but only the body not the fins...

My pumps are running @ 2600 rpm and they were tested before so for sure i know they are working properly ....

I am really lost here don't know what else to try any help would be appreciated guys

Thanks

Shremi


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Almost done...nothing compared to some here, but I had the parts sitting here, so why not...


----------



## Ceadderman

Shremi, you probably need to redo your TIM on your block(s) or check to make sure your fans are facing the correct way. You would be surprised to see how a fan that is set up improperly can do to your temps. I did the latter when I ran my H50 in push pull and had inadvertantly reversed one of the fans so that airflow was pretty much stifled. I would check for that cuz I doubt the plastidip is the problem if you fully prepped before applying it.

~Ceadder


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Guys i would love to get your input on this situation ......
> 
> I recently upgraded my build .... switched the case switched to dual MCP50X instead of the 655s .... now for the cooling
> 
> My previous build was using 1/2 3/4 tubing with dual MCP 655s 1 360 RAD in push and another rad 240mm rad in p/p
> 
> My new build is using acrylic E22 i changed moved the 360 RAD and also added p/p configuration also moved the 240 rad only in push using my case fans they are 140mm fans btw but i dont know if that should be a problem i also changed the reservoir to a larger XSPC photon 270 and i added a XT45 420 Rad with p/p configuration ... for the life of me i can understand why my temps are higher in this build than in my previous one ..... I kept the same blocks for both the cpu and the GPU .... For example my 980s are getting load temps while a couple of runs in heaven of 52 or 53 C which are completely worse and the cpu is also hotter than before seems ridicioulus since i added a 420 rad to the system
> 
> Here is a picture of the build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also i have changed the top port on the GPUs to the left something like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flow of the build is like this
> 
> From the reservoir→to the back of the case where i have dual MCP50X→ To the front rad → To the bottom rad → GPU → Top Rad → CPU → Back to the reservoir
> 
> Oh and i dont know if this has to be the culprit of the problem but the top radiator was painted with plastidip but only the body not the fins...
> 
> My pumps are running @ 2600 rpm and they were tested before so for sure i know they are working properly ....
> 
> I am really lost here don't know what else to try any help would be appreciated guys
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Shremi


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shremi, you probably need to redo your TIM on your block(s) or check to make sure your fans are facing the correct way. You would be surprised to see how a fan that is set up improperly can do to your temps. I did the latter when I ran my H50 in push pull and had inadvertantly reversed one of the fans so that airflow was pretty much stifled. I would check for that cuz I doubt the plastidip is the problem if you fully prepped before applying it.
> 
> ~Ceadder


To add to this, how long has it been bled for? looks to be an awful lot of air in the res. Maybe have an airlock in the top rad or one of the rads.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey anyone know how long does it take Performance PCs to get something back in stock usually? they ran out of the rotary extenders I wanted









I would order from FrozenCPU but I'm not paying $85 shipping on a $130 order







(plus they dont stock the black sparkle T block I want anymore







)


----------



## electro2u

Idk Juggalo but I have a BP matte or silver shining t fitting you can have if you want.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Idk Juggalo but I have a BP matte or silver shining t fitting you can have if you want.


Nah, thanks anyway I'm after the black sparkle ones (every fitting I have is black sparkle) I'll just wait or email and ask them


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shremi, you probably need to redo your TIM on your block(s) or check to make sure your fans are facing the correct way. You would be surprised to see how a fan that is set up improperly can do to your temps. I did the latter when I ran my H50 in push pull and had inadvertantly reversed one of the fans so that airflow was pretty much stifled. I would check for that cuz I doubt the plastidip is the problem if you fully prepped before applying it.
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can't Belive it i have never played before with push pull but please tell me this is the right way to do it???



If that is correct I believe I have my fan orientation wrong.... I have it sandwiched pushin air to the Rad from both ends


----------



## VSG

That picture above is correct.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For those who don't venture much outside this thread (personally guilty for a while as well) : http://www.overclock.net/t/1526779/user-review-of-the-swiftech-h220-x/0_50


Ooooh, so glad you linked that in this thread. ^_^


----------



## Jakewat

Hey, does anyone know what size holes you need to drill in order to tap G1/4 thread, like drillbit size in mm. I'm currently making up a rough design of a water channel mid plate, the material being plexi if that makes a difference.


----------



## tictoc

I believe you need an 11.8mm bit.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tictoc*
> 
> I believe you need an 11.8mm bit.


So say I got the holes CNC milled at 12mm, it should be fine to thread? Those extra 0.2mm shouldn't make a big difference, and considering I am only able to use sketchup I can't get that level of accuracy anyway


----------



## pc-illiterate

also shremi, use all of your fans to push or pull into your case. i see your bottom rad is pushing out and i also assume those are pointed at each other?


----------



## shremi

Hello all and again thanks for the replys .... i feel like an idiot my fans were not set up properly i was making a sandwich out of each radiator with the flow..... reverted the mistake temps seems much better now thanks everyone for the suggestions and the help


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> So say I got the holes CNC milled at 12mm, it should be fine to thread? Those extra 0.2mm shouldn't make a big difference, and considering I am only able to use sketchup I can't get that level of accuracy anyway


If you are using the right template you can easily. Just start drawing a circle then type 11.8 in the box.


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Hi,

I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this question but I'll give it a shot! Would it be possible to run a DDC pump of a pwm header on my motherboard? Specifically, the pump is an EK-DDC 3.25 water pump, and my motherboard is a maximus v gene.

Thanks for your help guys!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this question but I'll give it a shot! Would it be possible to run a DDC pump of a pwm header on my motherboard? Specifically, the pump is an EK-DDC 3.25 water pump, and my motherboard is a maximus v gene.
> 
> Thanks for your help guys!


The EK-DDC 3.25 is a 20 watt 12V DC pump. It is not a PWM pump and draws too much voltage to be powered by a mobo's fan header. It does have a tach signal wire going to a 3 pin fan connector to attach to a mobo fan header for rpm reporting purposes, but needs to be powered by the PSU via the 4-Pin Molex. The only DDC pumps that could actually be powered by a mobo header were the 10 watt ones that at 0.83 Amps just barely squeeze under a typical mobo header's max 1 amp limit. By comparison an 18 - 20 watt DDC would need at least 1.5 Amps.

EK does have their 18 watt EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump though, and it is designed to be speed controlled via a PWM mobo header via it's 4-Pin fan connector (ie: the CPU_FAN header on your Max V Gene) while it gets it's 12v power from the PSU.


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The EK-DDC 3.25 is a 20 watt 12V DC pump. It is not a PWM pump and draws too much voltage to be powered by a mobo's fan header. It does have a tach signal wire going to a 3 pin fan connector to attach to a mobo fan header for rpm reporting purposes, but needs to be powered by the PSU via the 4-Pin Molex. The only DDC pumps that could actually be powered by a mobo header were the 10 watt ones that at 0.83 Amps just barely squeeze under a typical mobo header's max 1 amp limit. By comparison an 18 - 20 watt DDC would need at least 1.5 Amps.
> 
> EK does have their 18 watt EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump though, and it is designed to be speed controlled via a PWM mobo header via it's 4-Pin fan connector (ie: the CPU_FAN header on your Max V Gene) while it gets it's 12v power from the PSU.


Wow thanks for the quick reply!! I vaguely understand this now... although I guess I'll have to wait for my order to arrive to know for sure. Assuming that I do not use the 4-pin PWN connector on the EK-DDC 3.2 model, does this mean that the pump runs at full speed constantly? :/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Wow thanks for the quick reply!! I vaguely understand this now... although I guess I'll have to wait for my order to arrive to know for sure. Assuming that I do not use the 4-pin PWN connector on the EK-DDC 3.2 model, does this mean that the pump runs at full speed constantly? :/


If the pump is the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM then yeah, I do believe having the PWM signal disconnected will make the pump run at full speed, which should probably be avoided for long periods as the DDC has a known propensity to overheat when ran full speed which is especially true if ran in loops without at least a few blocks of restriction.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Wow thanks for the quick reply!! I vaguely understand this now... although I guess I'll have to wait for my order to arrive to know for sure. Assuming that I do not use the 4-pin PWN connector on the EK-DDC 3.2 model, does this mean that the pump runs at full speed constantly? :/


If you got the 3.25 Ddc it has 4 pin molex for power in and 3 pin fan connector which is tachometer out. If you connect that type of pump straight to the power supply it will run full speed all the time but it should be fairly quiet.
The tach signal is used to shutdown the system if the pump fails.

Edit: or the tach will at least allow for a warning tone from the mobo bios. It's redundant precaution these days because cpus and gpus have over temp protection and auto shutdown.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you are using the right template you can easily. Just start drawing a circle then type 11.8 in the box.


Oh didn't even realise that was an option, basic skills here







. Also do you guys think a 5mm deep X 12mm wide channel is very restrictive?


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If you got the 3.25 Ddc it has 4 pin molex for power in and 3 pin fan connector which is tachometer out. If you connect that type of pump straight to the power supply it will run full speed all the time but it should be fairly quiet.


What about the 3.2 ddc? Should be about the same right?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> What about the 3.2 ddc? Should be about the same right?


ya nothing to worry about I don't think. The 3.2 is pwm so it has the ability to be controlled by the motherboard based on temp but it will get power from molex connected to the power supply.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Oh didn't even realise that was an option, basic skills here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also do you guys think a 5mm deep X 12mm wide channel is very restrictive?


Shouldn't be, its almost the same cross section area as 3/8 or 10mm tube


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tictoc*
> 
> *I believe you need an 11.8mm bit.*
> 
> 
> 
> So say I got the holes CNC milled at 12mm, it should be fine to thread? Those extra 0.2mm shouldn't make a big difference, and considering I am only able to use sketchup I can't get that level of accuracy anyway
Click to expand...

11.8 is correct.

If it doesnt make a difference then why is a 11.8 tap drill specified?
Do it properly,dont cut corners. If you are drilling these by hand,dont. Use a pillar drill and cutting fluid,the fluid will make the acrylic less prone to grabbing or thermal issues.

The tap itself should only ever be used for acrylics,have one especially for that job,dont re-purpose one that have been used with metals.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> So say I got the holes CNC milled at 12mm, it should be fine to thread? Those extra 0.2mm shouldn't make a big difference, and considering I am only able to use sketchup I can't get that level of accuracy anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are using the right template you can easily. *Just start drawing a circle then type 11.8 in the box.*
Click to expand...

Lol and very much this.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If the pump is the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM then yeah, I do believe having the PWM signal disconnected will make the pump run at full speed, which should probably be avoided for long periods as *the DDC has a known propensity to overheat when ran full speed which is especially true if ran in loops without at least a few blocks of restriction.*


Hmmm. That's scary. Didn't know that as I have no experience with Ddc pumps. Does the speed of the 3.25a version need to be controlled then or is it OK to let it run full speed all the time?

Edit: I guess that's why there's a heatsink available for it? Yuck.


----------



## ThornTwist

Hey guys, I'm on intermission for my build log, but will need help once I get rolling again. I'm trying to learn from this thread for basic info, but so far the stuff you guys have been talking about recently is beyond me. Anyways, my build is really quite ambitious, there are 3 phases -each raising both the aesthetics & functionality, as well as the skill that is required to the completion of the phase. At this point I have only gotten my feet wet, with only a custom loop going to the CPU for phase 1. Its all new hardware I'm working with (X99 platform + 980s), with upgrades to come. I understand you guys are busy and there are a million build logs out there, but I'm just asking for a little something something for you guys to check out the build log. I've got some people on board already who are really great people who are willing to help, so I have to thank them for their involvement. If you get the chance, or find yourself in between visiting other build logs, all I ask is that you might check out the picks for phase 1 completion in the second post and if you feel like contributing I'd be more than happy to hear from you. With that said, Just want to say I love this forum and it has helped me immensely with the knowledge and knowhow on my computer literacy. Build log is in the siggy.

Thanks for reading,

TT


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 11.8 is correct.
> 
> If it doesnt make a difference then why is a 11.8 tap drill specified?
> Do it properly,dont cut corners. If you are drilling these by hand,dont. Use a pillar drill and cutting fluid,the fluid will make the acrylic less prone to grabbing or thermal issues.
> 
> The tap itself should only ever be used for acrylics,have one especially for that job,dont re-purpose one that have been used with metals.
> Lol and very much this.


Yea, I only have very limited experience with sketchup, will fix up the holes tomorrow. Few more questions on the topic:
Is there any preference on O-ring cord I should use, thinking 2mm atm. Also how wide and deep should the O-ring channels be, currently I have the water channel set into a 10mm piece then 2mm wide x 1mm deep channel on the top 5mm piece. I was wondering if the width should be slightly thinner to make the O-ring compress more, or does the depth already help with that?

How spaced out should the screws be roughly?

I'm also scared to tap this sort of stuff, because if I get it CNC'ed it will most likely be costly and I wouldn't want to ruin it









Thanks for the info so far, need all the criticism I can get before I submit this for quotes and cutting.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 11.8 is correct.
> 
> If it doesnt make a difference then why is a 11.8 tap drill specified?
> Do it properly,dont cut corners. If you are drilling these by hand,dont. Use a pillar drill and cutting fluid,the fluid will make the acrylic less prone to grabbing or thermal issues.
> 
> The tap itself should only ever be used for acrylics,have one especially for that job,dont re-purpose one that have been used with metals.
> Lol and very much this.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, I only have very limited experience with sketchup, will fix up the holes tomorrow. Few more questions on the topic:
> Is there any preference on O-ring cord I should use, thinking 2mm atm. Also how wide and deep should the O-ring channels be, currently I have the water channel set into a 10mm piece then 2mm wide x 1mm deep channel on the top 5mm piece. I was wondering if the width should be slightly thinner to make the O-ring compress more, or does the depth already help with that?
> 
> How spaced out should the screws be roughly?
> 
> I'm also scared to tap this sort of stuff, because if I get it CNC'ed it will most likely be costly and I wouldn't want to ruin it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info so far, need all the criticism I can get before I submit this for quotes and cutting.
Click to expand...

2x1mm is fine although I would go with a 10mm cover over a 5.
Screws should be a maximum of 50mm apart,plexi can flex which you need to accommodate in your design in regards to bolt quantity.

You could consider gasket sheet instead of o rings........


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 2x1mm is fine although I would go with a 10mm cover over a 5.
> Screws should be a maximum of 50mm apart,plexi can flex which you need to accommodate in your design in regards to bolt quantity.
> 
> You could consider gasket sheet instead of o rings........


The only reason I'm going 5mm for the top is that is for a TJ07 midplate it can only be a max of about 17mm due to some pieces in the way, I could possibly squeeze in another 1-2mm for safety. If I had a coldzero mobo tray I could probably fit 20mm, maybe next time.

Gasket sheet didn't even cross my mind, depends if I can easily get hold of some in NZ, but it would defiantly save on some machining.

EDIT: what would be the best material and thickness for gasket sheet?


----------



## Aaron_Henderson




----------



## ginger_nuts

A quick question for those who have experience with hard tubing.
So how do you over come the problem of ports not aligning on any planes ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its coming along....


----------



## WiSK

^^^ Lovely photo @B NEGATIVE









Torn pad off a pump. Resoldered somewhere else along the trace. This should work ... right guys?!


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/f0b6w4Yyj

Got my five Noctua fans, excuse pic, cam settings got reset.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> ^^^ Lovely photo @B NEGATIVE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Torn pad off a pump. Resoldered somewhere else along the trace. This should work ... right guys?!


Wire looks way too heavy a gage to get it to bend properly where it bends down and exits the housing. . . . the new one and the rightmost one.

You also have too much wire exposed past the insulation. The 2 wires in the middle are a much more appropriate gage, and have as much wire exposed past the insulation as you would ever want there.

If it's the left pad that's gone, rather than run wire all over the place, which may keep the housing from seating properly . . .use a bit of sandpaper or an emery board to sand the green masking off the track just to the left of where the pad is gone, and then solder the wire back on there . . . . . so that you have the wire coming out almost exactly the same as it originally did.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A quick question for those who have experience with hard tubing.
> So how do you over come the problem of ports not aligning on any planes ?


Bend it like Beckham.









It helps to put a lot of thought and creativity into your routing possibilities. An angle rotary at one or either end can change everything.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If the pump is the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM then yeah, I do believe having the PWM signal disconnected will make the pump run at full speed, which should probably be avoided for long periods as *the DDC has a known propensity to overheat when ran full speed which is especially true if ran in loops without at least a few blocks of restriction.*
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm. That's scary. Didn't know that as I have no experience with Ddc pumps. Does the speed of the 3.25a version need to be controlled then or is it OK to let it run full speed all the time?
> 
> Edit: I guess that's why there's a heatsink available for it? Yuck.
Click to expand...

Yeah I don't have experience with DDCs either, but I bow to the common knowledge posted here by those who have, like here for example ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1446894/2-ddc-18w-pumps-too-powerful/0_40#post_21290155
http://www.overclock.net/t/1453257/please-help-me-i-came-home-to-burning-smell-leak-on-pump-pump-wont-turn-on/40_40#post_21445167

I do have a small build I keep putting on the backburner where I've been thinking a DDC will make more sense than the D5s I already have a bunch of, though been considering that MCP50x also. When I do get around to it if I do go with a DDC it'll have to be a PWM variant (EK 3.2 or MCP35X). I wouldn't even seriously consider using a non-pwm DDC, at least not the 18-20 watt versions after reading too many posts like those above. I don't believe the old 10 watt DDCs suffered from the same heat-related reliability issues. Now I wish I would have picked up one or two of those from bmaverick when I had the chance.

- - - - - - - - - -
edit: my bad for the double post. sry


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wire looks way too heavy a gage to get it to bend properly where it bends down and exits the housing. . . . the new one and the rightmost one.
> 
> You also have too much wire exposed past the insulation. The 2 wires in the middle are a much more appropriate gage, and have as much wire exposed past the insulation as you would ever want there.
> 
> If it's the left pad that's gone, rather than run wire all over the place, which may keep the housing from seating properly . . .use a bit of sandpaper or an emery board to sand the green masking off the track just to the left of where the pad is gone, and then solder the wire back on there . . . . . so that you have the wire coming out almost exactly the same as it originally did.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks Darlene, good tips









I did still have half a pad there initially and tried to solder a wire there, but the rest of the pad tore off. I will try your idea if this doesn't pass the 24 hour test.

The larger wire gauge is 0.75mm2 ~= 19 AWG, the smaller wires are 0.14mm2 ~= 26 AWG. I figured the 26 AWG was too little for the 12V/ground, I can redo the whole lot with 26 AWG if you say its enough. IIRC the stock Laing wiring was exposed much more over the edge of the PCB, but I can use a tiny bit of 1mm shrink there.

The ghetto new wire is indeed very exposed. I hope the clear coat on the PCB is thick enough. There's an EK thermal pad going over the whole lot. I will have to slice out the area where the wire goes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Go for a silicone sleeve wire and it will bend and flatten easily.


----------



## WiSK

The insulation is flexible enough, it's the solder that's wicked inside that stops it from bending. Darlene is right, the more strands, the harder it is to bend with solder in it. I bet I will tear the 12V pad off too


----------



## gamerking

rebuilt my loop just need the gpu block and may get a second one =) thought i got enough 90's but 3 wasn't enough pics are in below
sorry about the wiring most of them are temp my fan controller been failing and get got a wee wet forgot to plug my drain port and had a geyser going to it now it just beeps.
and before any says anything yes i know my gpu is a saggy one its in straight but only sags in the first slot the other 3 ones it doesn't if any else has the gigabyte x79-up4 board do you have the problem


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## electro2u

Recently I posted some questions about what acrylic tubing could be bent and which 5/8" OD tubing would work with the Bitspower multi-link fittings.

*Any* acrylic tubing can be bent. Some types bend easier than others.

Though there was no definitive answer on which tubing works with which fittings aside from the obvious assumption that EK 5/8" tubing will work with EK 5/8" fittings I can now offer proof that:
Monsoon 5/8" tubing works very well with Bitspower 16MM multi-link enhanced fittings. They are tight (which to my mind is good), so a quick run around the very edge of the tubing with some sand paper allows the tube to be inserted.

Behold--my first proper macro shot with a tripod and remote.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Pretty much done now, just have to tidy up some cables, and leave it one more night to make sure there is no leaks before I put power to it...


----------



## electro2u

I usually leak test for about a half hour.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I usually leak test for about a half hour.


I bet you also use clamps or compression fittings







And also don't have a family as a financial priority if something gets damaged because of a leak...also, with Christmas coming up, I highly doubt I need to be buying new hardware due to my being needlessly confident ...I am able to continue this expensive hobby, gaming, because it doesn't tie up all my time and money. Otherwise, I don't think my girlfriend would be so approving. Swinging $400 for the 290X was tough enough as it is, don't need any future headaches.


----------



## Jakewat

Haha yeah, sometimes you can be a little over cautious with leak testing. If it has run for at least an hour or so with no signs of leaks then it will most likely be absolutely fine. It's best to leak test in a position where the case is also going to stay to avoid bumbing something when moving it. Personally I found I didn't need more than a few hours for my build and had heaps of fittings.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Again guys, I am running clamp-less on standard barbs...better safe than sorry. And there are enough computers in our house that I don't need to rush anything.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> I bet you also use clamps or compression fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also don't have a family as a financial priority if something gets damaged because of a leak...


I'm married and I have a four year old but I would definitely make sure I replaced my setup before they got anything to eat if I had a catastrophic leak during use.








If you aren't using clamps or compression fittings I can understand being more cautious. My comment wasn't intended to insult your intelligence, was just a standard innocuous comment.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm married and I have a four year old but I would definitely make sure I replaced my setup before they got anything to eat if I had a catastrophic leak during use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you aren't using clamps or compression fittings I can understand being more cautious. My comment wasn't intended to insult your intelligence, was just a standard innocuous comment.


No worries, I was just stating my reasoning for going a little mad with the leak testing, as it did seem a tad derogatory the way you put it. Cheers though dude, no hard feelings


----------



## Jakewat

Ahhh ok, didn't realize you were going commando with the tube







. But the point of bumping when repositioning is defiantly something to be careful of with that setup.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Ahhh ok, didn't realize you were going commando with the tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But the point of bumping when repositioning is defiantly something to be careful of with that setup.


That's one of the biggest reasons for the extensive leak testing...I already had a minor leak due to the barbs I am using having too shallow of thread, and all I need is for one to rip from it's mounting spot, or once the tube softens up due to some heat load, have the tubing pull away from a barb. I am running 3/8 tube on 1/2 barbs though, so I am sure it will be fine. So far, so good anyway


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I usually leak test for about a half hour.


I tend to do the same, but also depends on how many connections that need be inspected or kept a close eye on. I know with the C70 I did my leak test for a couple hours.









Only compressions I used were on my CPU and reservoir


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I leak test for at least 6 hrs or more, but then again that's using air to leak test. I usually try to leave it overnight or while I'm at work and then come back to make sure the air pressure didn't leak down at all.


----------



## wermad

Some goodies came in







.




A bit of Weiman metal polish to bring some luster back into to the Kryos cpu block. 1 of 3 Monsta 480mm







. Also, D5 vario w/ Alphacool top came in and several Bitspower silver fittings. Some parts are still pending: more sp120 hp's, more fittings/adapters/links, EK blocks (50% off BF sale







), tube, and my case is pending rma (







).


----------



## derickwm




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Hello all and again thanks for the replys .... i feel like an idiot my fans were not set up properly i was making a sandwich out of each radiator with the flow..... reverted the mistake temps seems much better now thanks everyone for the suggestions and the help


Glad to be of help shremi. I had already had mine set up and working properly. But I ran into the same problem when I disassembled to clean my radiator and put everything back together. Good learning experience paid foward to a fellow WC'er.









~Ceadder


----------



## charliebrown

OK so I'm filling my desk build loop but my pump won't flow its on I feel it but won't push the water its a swiftech d5 and its on its side


----------



## wermad

Probably trapped air. Make sure the loop is sealed, and then rock your case to purge out air.


----------



## charliebrown

Had it in wrong hole pump top hole got it now


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


How's life fending off grolar bears? Wish they were Ligers?









900D is hopefully shipping on monday for a friday delivery and I'm crossing my fingers ups doesn't trash this one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Had it in wrong hole pump top hole got it now


Lol, this has happened to me in the past.


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's life fending off grolar bears? Wish they were Ligers?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 900D is hopefully shipping on monday for a friday delivery and I'm crossing my fingers ups doesn't trash this one.
Click to expand...




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Had it in wrong hole pump top hole got it now


Lol, this has happened to me in the past.

Ahhhh takes you back huh? Yeah I had one of those moments a little earlier in the thread. I generally do though cause I'm ona them learn as ya go types. I got the 932 torn completely apart for my extreme mod. Probably won't have it back up for awhile. Still sorting out how I'm gonna mount three 360s' and where I'm gonna mount the Reservoir. Soon as I got back from Oz, I jumped right in yellin DAAAYAAAAM the consequences!









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Cyber Monday is that crazy Holiday the First Monday after Black Friday and continues the Holiday Shopping Season! So let us off you these killer deals of items way below cost! Grab them while you can because once they are gone then they are gone!
> 
> And to help out your Holiday Shopping we bring you Cyber Monday savings from Performance-PCs.com! These offers are only available Cyber Monday so get 'em while you can!
> 
> Coupon for non-sale items:
> 
> 8% OFF on any order over $50: "CYBER14-8"
> 
> (Valid Monday Dec 1st, 2014 only. This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

^they are/were also having a great sale 20% off on hwlabs radiators
I got my 2nd GTX480 thanks to the results from your test against the havoc

~still waiting on a order packing notification or a "were sorry we have no stock of this Item you ordered" email from coolerguys for the AP-30s I ordered.. if these fall through I am gonna try out noctua 3000rpm pro series or those parvum wingboost plus rebrands


----------



## VSG

Those should be the new permanent prices, they said they've optimized production and are passing on savings.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's life fending off grolar bears? Wish they were Ligers?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 900D is hopefully shipping on monday for a friday delivery and I'm crossing my fingers ups doesn't trash this one.
Click to expand...

Didn't you just sell a 900D not too long ago?

I'm back on the East Coast now, but heading to Slovenia in a couple weeks... never ending.


----------



## VSG

He sold the STH10 and went smaller, gave up and now trying out the 900D. Most people do 900D to STH10 so it's not long before he goes back to complete the circle


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> He sold the STH10 and went smaller, gave up and now trying out the 900D. Most people do 900D to STH10 so it's not long before he goes back to complete the circle


@Wermad send me a PM when you ultimately do


----------



## wermad

900d was cheap, so it was a last minute impulse buy







. Hey, it was my b-day, so had to get me something.

I have a v71 if you wants







.

What do you guys use to paint/color acetal? I want to add white to the engraved name on my d5 top. Not sure if pen corrector works?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 900d was cheap, so it was a last minute impulse buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Hey, it was my b-day, so had to get me something.
> 
> I have a v71 if you wants
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> What do you guys use to paint/color acetal? I want to add white to the engraved name on my d5 top. Not sure if pen corrector works?


If its engraving then thin some paint and use a hypodermic with a thin needle to flood fill the recess. cleaner and has much less prep/clean up time.


----------



## wermad

Kewl







+1


----------



## BeginnerBob

This was my first ever computer build and i decided to spend a few extra weeks of research to add some water cooling to it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeginnerBob*
> 
> This was my first ever computer build and i decided to spend a few extra weeks of research to add some water cooling to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome to the club and a tidy build from a first timer. Great stuff.


----------



## BeginnerBob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Welcome to the club and a tidy build from a first timer. Great stuff.


Thank you! Sure wasn't easy but definitely did enjoy the process


----------



## jon666

Haha...that Fear and Loathing Pic above your build. Is your pc powered by drugs?


----------



## BeginnerBob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Haha...that Fear and Loathing Pic above your build. Is your pc powered by drugs?


I just really enjoy the movie


----------



## lowfat

@BeginnerBob looking good


----------



## skupples

Long time no see OCN WCC!

Great news from the front lines!

My less than a year old 480 NeXxOs 60mm radiator has already gone belly up.

I just swapped out my 3930k for a 4930k, and in the process noticed that one of the threads has the ever so slightest of leaks. It's in a rather tucked in place, so the only way to get a 100% confirmation of it being the threading and not the O-ring required busting out my LED lit magnifying glass. Basically, there seems to be a micro-crack around the radiator and the brass threading that they drop in. I know its not due to corrosion, as in the process of dropping in the new CPU, I inspected the nickel CPU block, and it's as clean as a whistle. No corrosion on a nickel plated product = obscenely unlikely that a radiator is corroding to death. At least, this has been my experience. Microchannels are like a sifter for junk in your loop, so finding absolutely nothing in the nickel CPU block leads me to believe the rest of the system is healthy as well.

So, it's either one of two things, or possibly some of both. Shoddy AC Workmanship, combined w/ stress to the tank, as it just so happens to be the side of the tank where I have one of my drain valves, so that means it gets some pressure & wiggling every now and then, but anyways. Just thought I would drop in and give yet another report on shoddy Alpha Cool workmanship.

Oh, as an aside... Normally a nickel block from EK is going to start showing some signs of wear after 9-12 months, but I either finally got lucky with this one, or Mayhem's X1 Clear blows all those other products out of the water. I've used everything. Deadwater, PT Nuke, EK, Liquid Utopia, and they've all proven to have some sort of downside, but after almost a year w/ X1 Clear in my system, everything is STILL as clean as a whistle. Hell, even the dried up drips coming out of said busted radiator port didn't have any white flaky build up like I've seen from so many other products.

anyways...

Anyone have any recommendations for a 120.4 radiator that's 40-60mm thick?


----------



## szeged

alphacool being garbage? nooooo.....

get some hardware labs sr-2s man.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> *Anyone have any recommendations for a 120.4 radiator that's 40-60mm thick?*


XSPC RX480 V3
Or a Mayhems Hovoc


Spoiler: (just got one of those myself)






Though might want to wait on Mayhem's rads showing up at a US seller. Shipping from UK was pricey.

Now you got me inspecting all of my Alphacools. I have 12 of them now in use, most of them for about that long. Thankfully I've not seen anything like that yet. _/knocks on wood-like veneer_


----------



## szeged

luckily all of my monsta rads are still in the condition that they arrived in...beaten and battered. yay quality control from alphacool. At least they arent leaking.


----------



## VSG

Black Ice Nemesis GTX? PPC has the updated lowered pricing and also an 8% discount tomorrow.

Took custody of an Alphacool UT60 last week and there's something loose inside. Possibly solder balls. Never had that happen before so was a bit of a shock.


----------



## szeged

ill never willingly spend money on an AC rad again lol, waste of time and money.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Eh, people can keep on trashing them, but I still like'em a lot. I haven't ever had any troubles with them save for the need to give them a good initial cleaning. I'm getting 6 more monstas, four 480s and two 240s, for the build I'm currently working on.


----------



## Gabrielzm

XSPC rx v3 or HWlabs @skupples







XSPC is about 30 bucks cheaper that the sr2 and comes with 4 ports which can be handy. Wish HWlabs would release a version of the SR2 with 4 (or better yet) 6 ports.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Eh, people can keep on trashing them, but I still like'em a lot. I haven't ever had any troubles with them save for the need to give them a good initial cleaning. I'm getting 6 more monstas, four 480s and two 240s, for the build I'm currently working on.


if you clean them very.....VERY thoroughly you shouldnt have many problems. i spent a good 20 hours cleaning all mine for my build....or should i say made my gf clean them while i did other stuff...because women cleaning and all....am i joking? who knows.


----------



## skupples

hehe, I thought I was paranoid at first. I even put some painter's tape on my res to mark the water line. For now I just have to drop pump speeds & a thick layer of paper towel. The drip is RIGHT ABOVE my Aquaero 6.

Was looking @ the SR2... Wonder if 560s fit in flex bays these days? Didn't CL release a new bracket for that?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hehe, I thought I was paranoid at first. I even put some painter's tape on my res to mark the water line. For now I just have to drop pump speeds & a thick layer of paper towel. The drip is RIGHT ABOVE my Aquaero 6.
> 
> Was looking @ the SR2... Wonder if 560s fit in flex bays these days? Didn't CL release a new bracket for that?


it should as long as it doesnt interfere with a rad up top or on bottom like it would with my set up.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ill never willingly spend money on an AC rad again lol, waste of time and money.


AC = aquacomputer???

or Alphacool?

My preowned Kryos still has very sharp edges. Nothing like the finish of a Supreme HF or Supremacy. Yet, my ek gpu blocks came with swirls, machine marks, and some light scratches. HK, is probably the best gpu finish I have seen.

I've owned a few Alphacool rads, never had issues other then some early ones having the sticker in the wrong orientation when installed in certain ways. Now they just send you stickers


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> AC = aquacomputer???
> 
> or Alphacool?
> 
> My preowned Kryos still has very sharp edges. Nothing like the finish of a Supreme HF or Supremacy. Yet, my ek gpu blocks came with swirls, machine marks, and some light scratches. HK, is probably the best gpu finish I have seen.
> 
> I've owned a few Alphacool rads, never had issues other then some early ones having the sticker in the wrong orientation when installed in certain ways. Now they just send you stickers


sorry i forgot aquacomputer existed









i meant alphacool.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> it should as long as it doesnt interfere with a rad up top or on bottom like it would with my set up.


yeah, i'm only using the bottom ports. Man, getting this out is going to be a nightmare.


----------



## wermad

Skupples, your new avatar is making my vertigo kick into overdrive







Lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hehe, I thought I was paranoid at first. I even put some painter's tape on my res to mark the water line. For now I just have to drop pump speeds & a thick layer of paper towel. The drip is RIGHT ABOVE my Aquaero 6.
> 
> Was looking @ the SR2... Wonder if 560s fit in flex bays these days? Didn't CL release a new bracket for that?


What case do you have? I have the side bottom mount for the sma8 (560 mm) works like a charm for a Sr1. But for flex bays check CS case page. Should be listed there. In any case if you meant side mount the SR2 should be even better since they change the fan spacing from 20 mm to 15 mm (Hwlabs).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> What case do you have? I have the side bottom mount for the sma8 (560 mm) works like a charm. But for flex bays check CS case page. Should be listed there


STH-10, I know I can stuff 560s into the bottom racks, just not sure about the front.

You know, NO. Just no.

I'm replacing what's in there. Not spending $500 to get a new rad into place in an aging system.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> STH-10, I know I can stuff 560s into the bottom racks, just not sure about the front.
> 
> You know, NO. Just no.
> 
> I'm replacing what's in there. Not spending $500 to get a new rad into place in an aging system.


+1 on that. Just replace the 480 mm by another. XSPC rx v3 is a very solid choice performance/price/quality.


----------



## szeged

upgrade time for mr skupples.


----------



## skupples

ah, crap. Black Ice won't work. I need a rad with bottom ports... I think that's why I went with the damn monster in the first place.

The XSPC will have to do.


----------



## szeged

tap your own ports duh.


----------



## wermad

w/ 17 bays, its doable. Not practical. Do it


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ah, crap. Black Ice won't work. I need a rad with bottom ports... I think that's why I went with the damn monster in the first place.


Do you mean end ports? Seriously check out the XSPC RX V3. One of the best performing rads ever made.



But if you mean ports on opposing sides your options will be much more limited. Is there anyone else doing that besides Alphacool?

EDIT:
Awww cr... crud. I forgot there's not 140mm options like a 560 with the RX V3 line of rads, at least not yet. 480 is as big as they come.


----------



## skupples

bleh @ new PPC layout. I See what they're going for, but it's just not working for me.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Do you mean end ports? Seriously check out the XSPC RX V3. One of the best performing rads ever made.
> 
> 
> 
> But if you mean ports on opposing sides your options will be much more limited. Is there anyone else doing that besides Alphacool?






already in my cart.

This build just keeps getting uglier and uglier each time I have to fix something, lol.

I have to replace the twist adapter that's on the bottom of my res, and i'm just going to use an SLI fitting instead of measuring it out.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> bleh @ new PPC layout. I See what they're going for, but it's just not working for me.


stolen from the kingpin thread, posted this not even an hour ago
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> old ppcs site was slow and outdated, new ppc site is so up to date its hard to use, worse than the last one. you better go there knowing exactly what you want.


----------



## iBored

Has anyone ever tried using these?
I don't quite get it. Where's the paste?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/indigo-xtreme-engineered-thermal-interface-eti-kit-for-socket-2011-3-haswell-e.html


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> stolen from the kingpin thread, posted this not even an hour ago


over engineered.

Trying to find BP SLI fitting in this hot mess = PITA. Just going to replace with male / male rotaries. Should fit... Hmm... I wonder if they're the exact same size as the alphacool male / male rotaries, as I have 3 of them in my system that I would like the swap, as I know their internal O-ring doesn't normally last for more than a year. BUT I'LL NEVER KNOW BECAUSE PPC DOESN'T HAVE THE MEASUREMENTS!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried using these?
> I don't quite get it. Where's the paste?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/indigo-xtreme-engineered-thermal-interface-eti-kit-for-socket-2011-3-haswell-e.html


Yes, they're a major pain in the ass, but they're cream of the crop... *if you do it right the first time.* Get at least two, and be prepared to send your CPU into a heat stroke. They aren't cheap, but they work really well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> XSPC rx v3 or HWlabs @Skupples
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC is about 30 bucks cheaper that the sr2 and comes with 4 ports which can be handy. Wish HWlabs would release a version of the SR2 with 4 (or better yet) 6 ports.


Yeah, wish HWLabs rads had 6 ports. I know other brands do, but other than lack of ports HWLabs fills the bill and cools my system well.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I hate the new ppcs.com menu/gui







. I prefer the old one even though that was not perfect.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I hate the new ppcs.com menu/gui
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I prefer the old one even though that was not perfect.


I dunno, it's kinda grown on me. Bout the only thing I don't like is the wish list. I can't delete parts that I've decided don't fit my build. Figure that'll get fixed, so it is barable atm.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Trying to find BP SLI fitting in this hot mess = PITA. Just going to replace with male / male rotaries. Should fit... Hmm... I wonder if they're the exact same size as the alphacool male / male rotaries, as I have 3 of them in my system that I would like the swap, as I know their internal O-ring doesn't normally last for more than a year. BUT I'LL NEVER KNOW BECAUSE PPC DOESN'T HAVE THE MEASUREMENTS!


BP-BSRG is 8.8mm between threads
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=319

looks like all are 8.8mm

did you guys know bp has quick disconnects?
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=3064
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=3062


----------



## wermad

I had the same thing happen. I use frozencpu.com and then find the name. They're called "aqua link", then search in the ppcs.com site. Found the ones i needed and used the tnx-'ng discount (8%). I picked up a few more then and afterwards realized I may have wanted to order a bit more. Unfortunately, it seems like they got rid of the last minute add item







.


----------



## Ceadderman

If I do QDs', those BP fittings look Sharp. Anyone know anything of them? Seems like a good way to extend acrylic tubing length.









~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> BP-BSRG is 8.8mm between threads
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=319
> 
> looks like all are 8.8mm
> 
> did you guys know bp has quick disconnects?
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=3064
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=3062


hey thanks, but I meant trying to find them on Performance-PCs new website, but alas I found something even better, that should be nearly Identical in size to the part i'm replacing.

Replacing Alphacool male/male rotary w/ BP male/male rotary, they should be mostly identical

edit: Oh, I See... the measurements, yeah I meant the measurements for the alphacool ones, kidna hard to measure them when they're balls deep in my case. They look to be about the same though. The Alphacool ones just magically fit perfectly from chipset >> CPU >> mosfets/VRMs w/ Alphacool 90 degree fittings.

I haven't been able to find the magical BP fitting combo that does that w/o using crystal links or the like.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had the same thing happen. I use frozencpu.com and then find the name. They're called "aqua link", then search in the ppcs.com site. Found the ones i needed and used the tnx-'ng discount (8%). I picked up a few more then and afterwards realized I may have wanted to order a bit more. Unfortunately, it seems like they got rid of the last minute add item
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Not surprised, knowing how this community works. They were probably getting dozens of last minute OH THIS OH THIS requests everyday, even with the whole "only once a month" rule or w/e it was.

going to wait until tomorrow to order so I can save a whole $12! Sigh, I still can't wrap my head around BP prices, but damn man when you need rotaries, and fittings with internal O-rings, they're the only choice. Everything else tends to fail within a matter of months. So, if spending $10 on a fitting means I can use it more than once, then fine.


----------



## pc-illiterate

how couldnt you find them skupp?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-angle--straight/fitting-type--adapter/?limit=90

alas they only have the matte black and red in stock though...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> how couldnt you find them skupp?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-angle--straight/fitting-type--adapter/?limit=90
> 
> alas they only have the matte black and red in stock though...


2 minutes of looking, stumbling over something that would be more useful = couldn't find









well, actually. I saw the single slot sli links, just not the really long ones i was thinking of.

and I must be blind, because I don't see SLI links in your link.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 2 minutes of looking, stumbling over something that would be more useful = couldn't find


then sit and wait for a minute or 2 while some poor schlub goes n finds them for you...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> then sit and wait for a minute or 2 while some poor schlub goes n finds them for you...


I think there is some confusion here...

I stated that I couldn't find SLI links, you know, the ones that are adjustable, so I ended up going with the male >> male rotaries instead, as they'll serve the same purpose.

anyways, hope everyone enjoyed their weekend of binge drinking & eating.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I've used the Bitspower QDC's. They work well, plus stylish. Can get some pictures up if you guys would like.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If I do QDs', those BP fittings look Sharp. Anyone know anything of them? Seems like a good way to extend acrylic tubing length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


QD's and acrylic=Nope.

Why would you need to extend acrylic when you can get meter runs?


----------



## blackfox2526

Here is my Rig so far :


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackfox2526*
> 
> Here is my Rig so far :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that 12mm ID/16mm OD tubing?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Is that 12mm ID/16mm OD tubing?


Guessing it is 1/2" 3/4" imperial, which is closer to 13/16mm in metric sizes (1/2" 5/8")


----------



## blackfox2526

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Is that 12mm ID/16mm OD tubing?


It's 1/2 inch ID and 3/4 inch OD, which is 12.7mm ID and 19mm OD
http://www.xs-pc.com/hose-fittings/g14-to-12-id-34-od-compression-fitting-black-chrome


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackfox2526*
> 
> It's 1/2 inch ID and 3/4 inch OD, which is 12.7mm ID and 19mm OD
> http://www.xs-pc.com/hose-fittings/g14-to-12-id-34-od-compression-fitting-black-chrome


Looks fantastic btw!^^


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Long time no see OCN WCC!
> 
> Great news from the front lines!
> 
> My less than a year old 480 NeXxOs 60mm radiator has already gone belly up.
> 
> I just swapped out my 3930k for a 4930k, and in the process noticed that one of the threads has the ever so slightest of leaks. It's in a rather tucked in place, so the only way to get a 100% confirmation of it being the threading and not the O-ring required busting out my LED lit magnifying glass. Basically, there seems to be a micro-crack around the radiator and the brass threading that they drop in. I know its not due to corrosion, as in the process of dropping in the new CPU, I inspected the nickel CPU block, and it's as clean as a whistle. No corrosion on a nickel plated product = obscenely unlikely that a radiator is corroding to death. At least, this has been my experience. Microchannels are like a sifter for junk in your loop, so finding absolutely nothing in the nickel CPU block leads me to believe the rest of the system is healthy as well.
> 
> So, it's either one of two things, or possibly some of both. Shoddy AC Workmanship, combined w/ stress to the tank, as it just so happens to be the side of the tank where I have one of my drain valves, so that means it gets some pressure & wiggling every now and then, but anyways. Just thought I would drop in and give yet another report on shoddy Alpha Cool workmanship.
> 
> Oh, as an aside... Normally a nickel block from EK is going to start showing some signs of wear after 9-12 months, but I either finally got lucky with this one, or Mayhem's X1 Clear blows all those other products out of the water. I've used everything. Deadwater, PT Nuke, EK, Liquid Utopia, and they've all proven to have some sort of downside, but after almost a year w/ X1 Clear in my system, everything is STILL as clean as a whistle. Hell, even the dried up drips coming out of said busted radiator port didn't have any white flaky build up like I've seen from so many other products.
> 
> anyways...
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations for a 120.4 radiator that's 40-60mm thick?


You might want to look at the EK 480 rad . . . .

It has top and bottom ports like the Alphastool, and a single port on the opposite end tank.

I just got 3, and so far I'm pretty impressed with overall feel and build quality.

Darlene


----------



## blackfox2526

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Looks fantastic btw!^^


Thanks man.


----------



## lowfat

Soon.







Pics are a tad on the cold side but I still have no working desktop to edit with.


----------



## Prophesix

I want to rebuild my setup. The case I have is linked, it has plenty of room and some already built in features but the pump died and I've yet to find one that's worth spending money on for a replacement. Do you guys have any suggestions on the mods I should take on with this case? Money isn't really an object (tax time is coming up! More like Mod a new PC time!) Do you guys have a preferred coolant, additives, treatments? What about GPU blocks? If I add one in line with the CPU block will that degrade the performance? How long do you guys use your system at a time (Is it just for gaming?) I actually used my rig to host some server software a while back and that ended up killing the pump leaving me in the current situation









Thermaltake Armor LCS


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics are a tad on the cold side but I still have no working desktop to edit with.


Whoo baby, that sleeved tubing. And here I thought I'd only need one pair of pants today.









In all seriousness, though, what sleeve did you use for the tubing? The dull reflections just scream nylon at me, but I don't think anyone makes a nylon sleeve in blue that big.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Whoo baby, that sleeved tubing. And here I thought I'd only need one pair of pants today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness, though, what sleeve did you use for the tubing? The dull reflections just scream nylon at me, but I don't think anyone makes a nylon sleeve in blue that big.


iirc it is MDPC Grand bleu sata sleeve.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Soon.
> 
> 
> 
> Pics are a tad on the cold side but I still have no working desktop to edit with.


Looks great LF.









What sleeving is that on your tubing? Looks sharp. I'm thinking about doing something like that with mine.









Only reason I am thinking QDC was in the event that I cannot get a long enough piece of acrylic. PPC's used to list the lengths but since they changed their setup I don't see anything telling what the length is. Beforehand you could get single lengths of 1 meter. Probably the same now but I am not interested in experimenting at the added cost of shipping expenses.









~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Whoo baby, that sleeved tubing. And here I thought I'd only need one pair of pants today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness, though, what sleeve did you use for the tubing? The dull reflections just scream nylon at me, but I don't think anyone makes a nylon sleeve in blue that big.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks great LF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What sleeving is that on your tubing? Looks sharp. I'm thinking about doing something like that with mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only reason I am thinking QDC was in the event that I cannot get a long enough piece of acrylic. PPC's used to list the lengths but since they changed their setup I don't see anything telling what the length is. Beforehand you could get single lengths of 1 meter. Probably the same now but I am not interested in experimenting at the added cost of shipping expenses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Like MrStrat007 says it is MDPC-X Grand Bleu.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Another potato pic of my build up and running...guess I should borrow the girlfriends DSLR+tripod+lighting...but my build is nothing special, so I likely never will


----------



## morencyam

I feel like I see that same pic everyday.

I have my desk build up and running. Just need to build a monitor stand since the clamp style mount I have now won't work with the desk. I'll try to get some good pics tonight to share


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I feel like I see that same pic everyday.
> 
> I have my desk build up and running. Just need to build a monitor stand since the clamp style mount I have now won't work with the desk. I'll try to get some good pics tonight to share


Well sorry, my highness. Didn't mean to interrupt the watercooling thread with progress on my watercooling. I won't bother with the irritation any longer. don't worry


----------



## morencyam

I didn't mean it in a condescending way. Just a general statement. No need to get all butthurt. Also, what is that material the frog(?) is sitting on? It kind of looks like some kind of felt material. Noise dampening?


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Magoo's "special" cousin?


----------



## lowfat

Is that an Apogee GT?


----------



## darkapollo

New hoses.. New UV strip.. New case.. basically only the water cooler is the same from before.


----------



## morencyam

I've always loved the look of UV green. That was my original plan, but decided to go with orange instead


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Another potato pic of my build up and running...guess I should borrow the girlfriends DSLR+tripod+lighting...but my build is nothing special, so I likely never will


Aaron--I definitely understand why this time it was a bit hard not to be insulted. I would have been also.

I wanted to tell you that the other day I thought the item you put in the bottom of the case was a towel for the leak test. Today I see clearly it is a big toad. I like that a lot as I've been toying with the idea of putting 1 or more plastic fish in my reservoir and it seems to me we both sort of have the same notion of the water cooling bringing our builds to life.

I think this thread should be a place for water builds of all shapes, sizes, degrees of difficulty etc. Your build *is* special because it is _yours_. I feel like I see the same pictures here day in and day out but seeing a build with a giant toad in it is unique. You should be proud of what you've done--Especially considering you had the balls to go unwrapped with no clamps and no comps. Much respect.


----------



## VSG

^ Hear, hear


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You might want to look at the EK 480 rad . . . .
> 
> It has top and bottom ports like the Alphastool, and a single port on the opposite end tank.
> 
> I just got 3, and so far I'm pretty impressed with overall feel and build quality.
> 
> Darlene






my oldest radiator is an EK radiator, and it's still solid as a rock. It's been through like 3 different builds over 3 years now.

speaking of which, is PPC doing 8% off for Cyber Monday?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> my oldest radiator is an EK radiator, and it's still solid as a rock. It's been through like 3 different builds over 3 years now.
> 
> speaking of which, is PPC doing 8% off for Cyber Monday?


same here! love EK rads!

that avatar dude! lmao


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> same here! love EK rads!
> 
> that avatar dude! lmao












So, I figured I would do a few MINOR changes while i'm swapping out this front radiator.

Right now i'm using Alphacool fittings to tie my chipset, CPU, & mosfets together.



Here's how its rigged up... I did it like this because it just so happened to magically work with the extra fittings I had. The space between 90 & 90 w/ the AC 90s is 16mm...

i'm trying to find a replacement for this that fits in a similar fashion, as the male/male AC Rotaries are well known for the O-rings failing, and I've personally seen it in other builds SO it's time to get them out before they stop dripping.

In short, curious if anyone has found a magical combination of fittings / crystal links that works for this pretty typical EK spacing. For reference, it's Rampage IV Black Edition mobo.


----------



## szeged

skupp what happened to the three amigo titans? sell one?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> skupp what happened to the three amigo titans? sell one?


this was during the building process... I don't actually remember why I was short a block. Might have been the EK miscommunication, or the RMA due to corrosion on the back... Don't remember.










fear not!

White tubes went bye bye though. Everything in the viewing area is 100% fittings, cuz yeah... I'm dumb.

oh, and that XSPC pump top cracked, you can see those little circles on the front of it? One of those came loose, giant pool of water in the bottom of my case, lucky nothing went pop.










btw, that valve in the back? Yeah, that's where the leak is. You can see ever so slight calcification outside of the O-ring around where the threads are soldered in.


----------



## szeged

my sth10 is a mess atm rofl, the horrors i have committed would get me lynched instantly.

I have 4 gpus in the sth10, only one of them is on water, the others are testing on air, and the flying spaghetti monster has nothing on me when it comes to these cables. im pretty sure i have cables in there that arent hooked up to a gpu or the psu.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> my sth10 is a mess atm rofl, the horrors i have committed would get me lynched instantly.
> 
> I have 4 gpus in the sth10, only one of them is on water, the others are testing on air, and the flying spaghetti monster has nothing on me when it comes to these cables. im pretty sure i have cables in there that arent hooked up to a gpu or the psu.


yeah... I'm in pretty much the same camp at this point.

I ordered some pre-sleeved from what's his face awhile back, but he canceled the order due to wife being preggo, or just getting married, one of the two, so I never really finished my sleeves. & sexy wiring.

I also jerry rigged my res/pump in when the triple top went pop, so that's pretty goofy looking. It looks like an actual pumping station w/ 2x 45's stuck together to go into the bottom of the case.

Just been too damn busy with school, work, & lady hunt. Though the hunt may be coming to an end if I can reassert my testicular fortitude. We did drinks after work, but now I R choke to push further. See, because you always have to give up ur freedums in the beginning, then slowly figure out where the ground is, then stick with it or leave it depending on where that ground is.

but i'm cracking the beast open, so I need to replace these 2 problem areas. Those fittings linked above, and the from rad. Might just go lazy mode & use SLI fittings... wait, I said that last night -,.-


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Magoo siting









Found some pen-corrector, and it came out decent. Need to clean up the top a bit but I'm satisfied. Got more parts in today:

8x SP120-HP's, Primochill Adv. Elegant White, xspc chrom plugs (replacing the Alphacool top plugs and the Aquacomputer res plugs).

Slowly, but getting there.


----------



## skupples

-.- is Alphacool really the only company that makes fat rads w/ 6 ported ends? This is frustrating.

I keep eying the Rev 3 XSPC 480, and i'm probably losing out on absolutely nothing by going from a UT60 to the what looks to be ~40mm thick Rev 3 XSPC 480.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> skupp what happened to the three amigo titans? sell one?
> 
> 
> 
> this was during the building process... I don't actually remember why I was short a block. Might have been the EK miscommunication, or the RMA due to corrosion on the back... Don't remember.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fear not!
> 
> White tubes went bye bye though. Everything in the viewing area is 100% fittings, cuz yeah... I'm dumb.
> 
> *oh, and that XSPC pump top cracked, you can see those little circles on the front of it? One of those came loose, giant pool of water in the bottom of my case, lucky nothing went pop.
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, that valve in the back? Yeah, that's where the leak is. You can see ever so slight calcification outside of the O-ring around where the threads are soldered in.
Click to expand...

Did you actually leave the res-pump setup like that with the res full of water cantilevering the pump top like that . . . . . no wonder it pinched a loaf on you . . . you can't stress acrylic like that over time and not expect disaster.

Mine's still doing fine.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Did you actually leave the res-pump setup like that with the res full of water cantilevering the pump top like that . . . . . no wonder it pinched a loaf on you . . . you can't stress acrylic like that over time and not expect disaster.
> 
> Mine's still doing fine.
> 
> Darlene










I thought most of the weight was on the top of the res.

I'm a derp. Looks like the V3 XSPC multiport is 56MM thick, just going to go with that... I need those bottom ports, no room for a Y or Q ball.

You also made me google a word for the first time in a long time









The Derlin top is holding up. The only way I would put the 3rd pump back in is if I went with those new Bitspower Derlin tops.


----------



## wermad

ppcs.com has 'em on sale for like ~$15 *$10*.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-premium-laing-triple-ddc-clear-acrylic-top.html


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ppcs.com has 'em on sale for like ~$15 *$10*.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-premium-laing-triple-ddc-clear-acrylic-top.html


hahaha, yeah, because no one is buying them. They've probably mostly moved them for review, and to myself & Darlene.

lol, PPC is now charging $$$ for Signature on Delivery. That's pretty obscene, last time I ordered from them signature was REQUIRED, not optional for monies.

I won't be touching another XSPC top again, the BP Magic Cube has my eyes, just need to figure out a sexy way of linking three of them together... On the next build, which isn't until Pascal 2.0


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought most of the weight was on the top of the res.
> 
> I'm a derp. Looks like the V3 XSPC multiport is 56MM thick, just going to go with that... I need those bottom ports, no room for a Y or Q ball.
> 
> You *also made me google a word for the first time* in a long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Derlin top is holding up. The only way I would put the 3rd pump back in is if I went with those new Bitspower Derlin tops.


Same, thanks Darlene for expanding my vocabulary for at least the next 10 minutes (because I guarantee that word won't stick).

Also Skupples, your avatar is...disturbing.


----------



## Jakewat

Need a bit of input guys. Having trouble picturing coolant colour with this colour scheme and don't know if I should do; ice white pastel, Clear, or something like black or very light grey/ silver?
(don't take into account the midplate, that is a piece of paper for measurements)
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps14e38ac6.jpg.html


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophesix*
> 
> I want to rebuild my setup. The case I have is linked, it has plenty of room and some already built in features but the pump died and I've yet to find one that's worth spending money on for a replacement. Do you guys have any suggestions on the mods I should take on with this case? Money isn't really an object (tax time is coming up! More like Mod a new PC time!) Do you guys have a preferred coolant, additives, treatments? What about GPU blocks? If I add one in line with the CPU block will that degrade the performance? How long do you guys use your system at a time (Is it just for gaming?) I actually used my rig to host some server software a while back and that ended up killing the pump leaving me in the current situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thermaltake Armor LCS


I had that case a long time ago I ditched it for the NZXT Phantom 820
Honestly lacking design options for liquid cooling.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I figured I would do a few MINOR changes while i'm swapping out this front radiator.
> 
> Right now i'm using Alphacool fittings to tie my chipset, CPU, & mosfets together.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how its rigged up... I did it like this because it just so happened to magically work with the extra fittings I had. The space between 90 & 90 w/ the AC 90s is 16mm...
> 
> i'm trying to find a replacement for this that fits in a similar fashion, as the male/male AC Rotaries are well known for the O-rings failing, and I've personally seen it in other builds SO it's time to get them out before they stop dripping.
> 
> In short, curious if anyone has found a magical combination of fittings / crystal links that works for this pretty typical EK spacing. For reference, it's Rampage IV Black Edition mobo.


The spacing from the top of the GPU's to the Chipset is a pain, for a while I used 1x 90 degree rotary on the chipset, 10 mm extender and another 90 degree rotary, then copper tubing and a new 90 degree rotary into the EK-FC Terminal. Real pain to get in, not doing that again. The best way is going away from those EK-FC Terminal that connects more than one GPU together (Quad-semi parallel is not to recommend), I am going to Aqua Pipe I now, only one option for the top ports on the EK-FC Terminal Quad Semi-Parallel. :/

The best way to do GPU to Chipset is some extenders from the Chipset (50 mm+ probably) and a dual rotary, then enhance fittings/multi-link adapters and a 90 degree rotary down to the GPU (on the port to the left on the EK-FC Terminal. This is probably what I am going to do, if I do not go soft-tubing, because 1x 90 degree rotary, 1x dual rotary and some extenders is more expensive than soft-tubing








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> this was during the building process... I don't actually remember why I was short a block. Might have been the EK miscommunication, or the RMA due to corrosion on the back... Don't remember.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fear not!
> 
> White tubes went bye bye though. Everything in the viewing area is 100% fittings, cuz yeah... I'm dumb.
> 
> oh, and that XSPC pump top cracked, you can see those little circles on the front of it? One of those came loose, giant pool of water in the bottom of my case, lucky nothing went pop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, that valve in the back? Yeah, that's where the leak is. You can see ever so slight calcification outside of the O-ring around where the threads are soldered in.


The white tubing looked amazing with the color of your CL case though, but only-fitting-loops is so good (if you could keep it leak-free though). I got to say, that is a beautiful-looking rig you got there.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> my sth10 is a mess atm rofl, the horrors i have committed would get me lynched instantly.
> 
> I have 4 gpus in the sth10, only one of them is on water, the others are testing on air, and the flying spaghetti monster has nothing on me when it comes to these cables. im pretty sure i have cables in there that arent hooked up to a gpu or the psu.


Post pictures? I have seen it on some other forum and it looks awesome!


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yeah... I'm in pretty much the same camp at this point.
> 
> I ordered some pre-sleeved from what's his face awhile back, but he canceled the order due to wife being preggo, or just getting married, one of the two, so I never really finished my sleeves. & sexy wiring.
> 
> I also jerry rigged my res/pump in when the triple top went pop, so that's pretty goofy looking. It looks like an actual pumping station w/ 2x 45's stuck together to go into the bottom of the case.
> 
> Just been too damn busy with school, work, *& lady hunt. Though the hunt may be coming to an end if I can reassert my testicular fortitude. We did drinks after work, but now I R choke to push further. See, because you always have to give up ur freedums in the beginning, then slowly figure out where the ground is, then stick with it or leave it depending on where that ground is.*
> 
> but i'm cracking the beast open, so I need to replace these 2 problem areas. Those fittings linked above, and the from rad. Might just go lazy mode & use SLI fittings... wait, I said that last night -,.-


Not sure if serious Skupps, but this made me laugh so hard that it hurts









And, yeah, my sth10 is still in the re-building stage, so I can't even claim that its flying spaghetti monster like szeged's. At least you guys have yours working..whereas mine is already obsolete with so called top of the line gear that I got when I first started this build....








Thinking of changing the components already when the next gen is released. But, as to when the build will be finished? the heck that I know... lol


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> what is that material the frog(?) is sitting on? It kind of looks like some kind of felt material. Noise dampening?


Suede leather.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that an Apogee GT?


Sure is.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Need a bit of input guys. Having trouble picturing coolant colour with this colour scheme and don't know if I should do; ice white pastel, Clear, or something like black or very light grey/ silver?
> (don't take into account the midplate, that is a piece of paper for measurements)
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps14e38ac6.jpg.html


Oh, neato. Is that the new Sabertooth mobo? Looks pretty slick.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> The spacing from the top of the GPU's to the Chipset is a pain, for a while I used 1x 90 degree rotary on the chipset, 10 mm extender and another 90 degree rotary, then copper tubing and a new 90 degree rotary into the EK-FC Terminal. Real pain to get in, not doing that again. The best way is going away from those EK-FC Terminal that connects more than one GPU together (Quad-semi parallel is not to recommend), I am going to Aqua Pipe I now, only one option for the top ports on the EK-FC Terminal Quad Semi-Parallel. :/
> 
> The best way to do GPU to Chipset is some extenders from the Chipset (50 mm+ probably) and a dual rotary, then enhance fittings/multi-link adapters and a 90 degree rotary down to the GPU (on the port to the left on the EK-FC Terminal. This is probably what I am going to do, if I do not go soft-tubing, because 1x 90 degree rotary, 1x dual rotary and some extenders is more expensive than soft-tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white tubing looked amazing with the color of your CL case though, but only-fitting-loops is so good (if you could keep it leak-free though). I got to say, that is a beautiful-looking rig you got there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post pictures? I have seen it on some other forum and it looks awesome!


I ended up going with SLI links in the long run. The big block of view blocking blackness jus got annoying to look at. I ended up using Tygon Norprene from GPU >> chipset now I just need to find a simple alternative for chipset >> CPU >> mosfets.


----------



## Prophesix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I had that case a long time ago I ditched it for the NZXT Phantom 820
> Honestly lacking design options for liquid cooling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! I may lean towards getting another case since tax time is comming up. What would you suggest if I do get that case? Pumps\reservoir types and so on. This would be MY first build from the ground up







I really like the front hinge since I have children but that case is like $230?!?!?! :\


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Need a bit of input guys. Having trouble picturing coolant colour with this colour scheme and don't know if I should do; ice white pastel, Clear, or something like black or very light grey/ silver?
> (don't take into account the midplate, that is a piece of paper for measurements)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps14e38ac6.jpg.html


What about something different like purple or magenta?

Something like this.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wouldn't recomment Aurora w/ a Jetplate installed on the cpu's waterblock


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Wouldn't recomment Aurora w/ a Jetplate installed on the cpu's waterblock


I was looking more at color choice rather than type but ok.


----------



## emsj86

New to hard tubing. What should I get petg or arylic. What brands wod you recommend and should I buy the mosoon bending material. I allready have a heat gun , deburrer, sand paper


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> New to hard tubing. What should I get petg or arylic. What brands wod you recommend and should I buy the mosoon bending material. I allready have a heat gun , deburrer, sand paper


you can check here for answer to which tube. Personally I think the Monsoon bending kit is expensive for one build. Fair enough if you are doing more. i found trying to bend acrylic around something left a flat spot on the tube, especially if you try to use Primoshills hollow bending cord.

I ended up buying a 1 metre length of solid neoprene cord from a company that sells seals for cars and boats, and unlike the already to short monsoon cord it doesn't snap inside the tube.

to form the bends I used this to make sure bends were at the right angle. with snapped monsoon bending cord.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

who has all ordered from coolerguys? I was just wondering how long it usually takes them to ship something.. I am probably being impatient but I did make my order thursday, and I'd like to know whether they really have the quantity I need of those GTs. I got responses from messaging them confirming they had the quantity I ordered but who knows if they really checked. Anyways they said they had them and were shipping them yesterday but I haven't seen a shipping notification or tracking # yet


----------



## conwa

Bad pictures, but gives you an idea of my setup!

Yes, I hate my case too, but it can handle the radiators and I am done with swapping everything to another case for now... (had to rebuild this 4 times thanks to failing 4790K's


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> who has all ordered from coolerguys? I was just wondering how long it usually takes them to ship something.. I am probably being impatient but I did make my order thursday, and I'd like to know whether they really have the quantity I need of those GTs. I got responses from messaging them confirming they had the quantity I ordered but who knows if they really checked. Anyways they said they had them and were shipping them yesterday but I haven't seen a shipping notification or tracking # yet


I've ordered from coolerguys many times (5+). Each time I chose the UPS ground option and each time I got two emails from them, the 2nd as a reply to the first. The first is a "_This email is to confirm the receipt of your recent order from Coolerguys.com._" email and the second, usually later the same day or sometimes the next is a "_Thank you again for your order from Coolerguys.com" ... "The following items have been shipped to:_" email and it includes a tracking number. Each email gives a 'contact us' link if you have any questions/issues.

Assuming you used the UPS shipping option, you can also just go to UPS and sign up for MyUPS if you haven't already (I HIGHLY recommend that you do. It's free!). That way you can see all deliveries from anyone that they have in route to your address, plus you get the option of having email delivery alerts the day before delivery, a tighter estimated delivery window usually (like between 1-4pm), and it will let you know if a delivery was sent with a signature required and if so MyUPS gives you the option of signing for it digitally ahead of time so they just drop it off like normal if you want.


----------



## shremi

Well after a long time my build is finally done

what do you guys think ??


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Looks really good shremi.









You ever going to fill that res up the rest of the way? Not saying that you have to if that's the way you prefer it. I'm just not used to seeing anyone run their res half full like that. I like to keep mine topped off so you can't even see the fill line.

So glad you got the temps issue figured out. I'm glad you did take the issue to the OCN watercooling club thread. I figured if anyone was going to be able to help you figure it out this would be the place.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks really good shremi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You ever going to fill that res up the rest of the way? Not saying that you have to if that's the way you prefer it. I'm just not used to seeing anyone run their res half full like that. I like to keep mine topped off so you can't even see the fill line.
> 
> So glad you got the temps issue figured out. I'm glad you did take the issue to the OCN watercooling club thread. I figured if anyone was going to be able to help you figure it out this would be the place.


Thanks man yeah i still need to figure out a couple of things out since my custom cables for the GPUs have a short or something because i get an error in the bios to reconnect the cables ... i also need to install my new SSD and figure out where to put the UV strip but that will be taken care of this weekend.... i do have the res filled up all the way but i need to take some more pics over the weekend if i figure out the custom cables problem.

And BTW thanks for the suggestion to pay a visit to this thread really cool stuff plus i can see the support here is vast.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Thanks man yeah i still need to figure out a couple of things out since my custom cables for the GPUs have a short or something because i get an error in the bios to reconnect the cables ... i also need to install my new SSD and figure out where to put the UV strip but that will be taken care of this weekend.... i do have the res filled up all the way but i need to take some more pics over the weekend if i figure out the custom cables problem.
> 
> And BTW thanks for the suggestion to pay a visit to this thread really cool stuff plus i can see the support here is vast.


it looks really good shremi. I like what you did to the case and nice bends there. What code do you get in BIOS? What happen when the board gives you that code? Is during booting?


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it looks really good shremi. I like what you did to the case and nice bends there. What code do you get in BIOS? What happen when the board gives you that code? Is during booting?


Thank you man this really is my proudest build.. I know I still have more things to learn.... I will start a new journey maybe in a couple of months I am playing on making my own desk more or less like the red harbinger but that will be a pain in the butt so I want to enjoy this build for a while...

No error code the system doesn't boot and i get this error on the display


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it looks really good shremi. I like what you did to the case and nice bends there. What code do you get in BIOS? What happen when the board gives you that code? Is during booting?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you man this really is my proudest build.. I know I still have more things to learn.... I will start a new journey maybe in a couple of months I am playing on making my own desk more or less like the red harbinger but that will be a pain in the butt so I want to enjoy this build for a while...
> 
> No error code the system doesn't boot and i get this error on the display
Click to expand...

It is what it is,your GPU's are not getting power


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is what it is,your GPU's are not getting power


yep, but since he mentioned a BIOS code originally I though he was getting a code in the asus debug code monitor and since I have the same board... That msg on screen is pretty clear


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> New to hard tubing. What should I get petg or arylic. What brands wod you recommend and should I buy the mosoon bending material. I allready have a heat gun , deburrer, sand paper
> 
> 
> 
> you can check here for answer to which tube. Personally I think the Monsoon bending kit is expensive for one build. Fair enough if you are doing more. i found trying to bend acrylic around something left a flat spot on the tube, especially if you try to use Primoshills hollow bending cord.
> 
> I ended up buying a 1 metre length of solid neoprene cord from a company that sells seals for cars and boats, and unlike the already to short monsoon cord it doesn't snap inside the tube.
> 
> to form the bends I used this to make sure bends were at the right angle. with snapped monsoon bending cord.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Soon.
> 
> 
> 
> Pics are a tad on the cold side but I still have no working desktop to edit with.


That sux that the silicon tube broke, but honestly it should've been pulled back toward the insertion end just past the bend and it wasn't. Simple law of applied force created a lock on it. Ever played with Chinese finger cuffs? Same principle applied here and in short, made quick work breaking that silicon insert. I would suggest doing the job properly wouldn't have resulted in your misfortune and increased costs.










So there is nothing wrong with the Monsoon silicon insert imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## conwa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well after a long time my build is finally done
> 
> what do you guys think ??


The left bottom fan doesnt look to sit straight.. Is that correct?


----------



## szeged

yeah looks like that fan is just sitting on top unbolted lol.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conwa*
> 
> The left bottom fan doesnt look to sit straight.. Is that correct?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah looks like that fan is just sitting on top unbolted lol.


WOW guys you dont miss anything







yeah it was unbolted since i had to turn around every fan for the properly push pull configuration to work









I promise to take better pictures over the weekend


----------



## szeged

build looks good though, i like the clear and white/slightly blue look.

also are the fans on the bottom rad pushing air out or sucking air in? because the fan orientation on the top of the rad says pushing it out.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yay my second nemesis is here and its not damaged yay..
atleast as far as i can tell. I probably need to leak test it since there wasnt much padding at the endcaps. but the actual products box mighta been sufficient

o n my blank showed up so I am gonna try n setup 3way sli gtx 680s on my z97 benchin pc

wish me luck I think my 2nd sli slot is dead on the mobo so that means I am going to have alot of fun routing sli cables


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah looks like that fan is just sitting on top unbolted lol.


YO, we've all been there.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> YO, we've all been there.


not hating







ive been there a lot more than id like to admit lol.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Thank you man this really is my proudest build.. I know I still have more things to learn.... I will start a new journey maybe in a couple of months I am playing on making my own desk more or less like the red harbinger but that will be a pain in the butt so I want to enjoy this build for a while...
> 
> No error code the system doesn't boot and i get this error on the display


Hahaha, well I got that same error last night upon finally being able to power up my new build. Turns out I had indeed left the cables unplugged in the top card during leak testing because they were in the way. Facepalmed, powered down, plugged the cables in and was good to go. If you have them plugged into the card and have a modular psu, just make sure the cables are fully seated on both ends is the only advice I have. Good luck, probably something simple.


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol I know if never bolted down my Delta's they might try to fly away at full speed


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i need an ek FC link system. got the whle thing drained and about to start undoing the fittings and I can't find the EK FC link system piece that goes from the waterblock to the parrallel bridge for the last revision of bridges

ha I have a 140mm not bolted down on top of my 360 radiator.. there was a space for it on the case so I just left it .. xD I need more fans..


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I ended up going with SLI links in the long run. The big block of view blocking blackness jus got annoying to look at. I ended up using Tygon Norprene from GPU >> chipset now I just need to find a simple alternative for chipset >> CPU >> mosfets.


Oh, okay. I might end up going with soft tubing as well, so much hassle to get the copper tubing properly in between GPU and Mosfet.









At least I am not having the problems with chipset >> CPU >> mosfets, one of the few advantages by using phase change I guess, still waiting for the Permaflex Dielectric grease, with DHL Express it should be here in the end of this week or early next week.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

u so lucky, I wish phase wasn't so damn expensive here in the US. or shipping from the UK wasn't ******ed.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> u so lucky, I wish phase wasn't so darn expensive here in the US. or shipping from the UK wasn't ******ed.


It is expensive here too, I gave 1000 USD for it.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

damn you really didn't save anything. thats about how much it is here too.
I forget which forum but there was tons of those things for under 500$


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> darn you really didn't save anything. thats about how much it is here too.
> I forget which forum but there was tons of those things for under 500$


It is a LD Cooling PC-V2 Black with extended 1 meter tube.









If you are really interested you could just build phase change yourself, but I did not want to go through the trouble, beside the LD Cooling unit have 1 year warranty.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah I was gonna get one of runmc last year or earlier this year but I ended up having to buy something else
components arent very cheap here either


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah I was gonna get one of runmc last year or earlier this year but I ended up having to buy something else
> components arent very cheap here either


Yeah, the water cooling adventure is not supposed to be cheap either I guess. The only bad thing about going phase change is that I have to get rid of the EK-Supremacy Full Nickel with Elite bracket, what an amazing water block.







Wondered if I should paint the phase change mounting plate in the "Nickel" finish or just plain black, because of the Dominator Platinums I am going to use.

Well, enough off-topic I guess, I found out that I could use the BP Multi-Link adapters between my GPU's, only problem with running four GPU's is that it needs 14x BP Multi-Links just for the cards







I only have like 20 of them, so I guess I will have to use some soft tubing until I get my hands on a few more of them, not going to order from Fcpu because of the insane high exchange rate at the moment.


----------



## szeged

this hobby is never cheap







finally got my acrylic loop how i wanted it then bitspower releases 16mm hardline fittings zzzzz.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I ended up going with SLI links in the long run. The big block of view blocking blackness jus got annoying to look at. I ended up using Tygon Norprene from GPU >> chipset now I just need to find a simple alternative for chipset >> CPU >> mosfets.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, okay. I might end up going with soft tubing as well, so much hassle to get the copper tubing properly in between GPU and Mosfet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least I am not having the problems with chipset >> CPU >> mosfets, one of the few advantages by using phase change I guess, still waiting for the Permaflex Dielectric grease, with DHL Express it should be here in the end of this week or early next week.
Click to expand...

Be really careful and wary as you work with your setup . . . . .

Most phase change setups are in reverse atx formats so that drips and frost melt doesn't always go right to the GPUs.

It's not just for aesthetic reasons that you normally see the phase setups reversed.

I know yours is not, so everything that drips is going to drip onto the back of the GPUs, and after a run and the frost/ice is melting, it has to drip, so be ready for it. . . Don't let it catch you off guard.

Darlene


----------



## szeged

can make a drip pan with a drain on it if he doesnt use reverse atx.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be really careful and wary as you work with your setup . . . . .
> 
> Most phase change setups are in reverse atx formats so that drips and frost melt doesn't always go right to the GPUs.
> 
> It's not just for aesthetic reasons that you normally see the phase setups reversed.
> 
> I know yours is not, so everything that drips is going to drip onto the back of the GPUs, and after a run and the frost/ice is melting, it has to drip, so be ready for it. . . Don't let it catch you off guard.
> 
> Darlene


Hmm, have not been thinking too much of that, although, the guy (or company I bought it from) used it in normal orientated cases (LD Cooling PC-V10s). I could give him a call and hear around, the only thing he said was that I did not have to insulate as much as I thought I need to. I hear the opposite in here, have many packs of art eraser and I am going to take my time to make it good, as of the condense, I have not really thought to much about it yet. There is a time for everything I guess.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can make a drip pan with a drain on it if he doesnt use reverse atx.


Sure, I could just drag a steel plate from underneath the phase change to the front of my case somewhere, if it will it, I do not know, but it is worth a try. Fun project too, I think.


----------



## szeged

if you are good with copper and soldering you can make a perfectly sized drip pan with a small drain to drain out of the rig or something, ive made plenty of them at work, shouldnt be too hard to shrink down


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can make a drip pan with a drain on it if he doesnt use reverse atx.


That's a pretty cramped and small space above the top GPU with a big connector for the phase unit and two banks of ram.

Not sure you could come up with a very effective drip pan.

It would be worth some extra consideration on how the GPUs get plumbed though, to maximize the access to that area to get towels in when needed.

Darlene


----------



## tatmMRKIV

just fill it full of cheerios and be done with it.. cheerios will wick up all dat moisture


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's a pretty cramped and small space above the top GPU with a big connector for the phase unit and two banks of ram.
> 
> Not sure you could come up with a very effective drip pan.
> 
> It would be worth some extra consideration on how the GPUs get plumbed though, to maximize the access to that area to get towels in when needed.
> 
> Darlene


Well, worst kind scenario I could just flip the case, no big deal really.







But the 1 meter tube will be a BIG problem, it is almost too long from the bottom of the PC-V8 to the CPU socket.

Anyways, some "professional" drip pan will probably not be the solution in my instance, but I will probably be able to make something that will lead the water away from the top of the GPU's. I have also thought of just getting a test-bench and use the LD Cooling PC-V8 for another project.


----------



## skupples

Phase is always expensive, from the device itsself, to the power consumption.

sigh, I hope these BP fittings will suffice for replacing these alphacool fittings. I Shoulda gone stupid mode & picked up ram blocks, many more options for routing than just chipset>>cpu>>mosfets.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Phase is always expensive, from the device itsself, to the power consumption.
> 
> sigh, I hope these BP fittings will suffice for replacing these alphacool fittings. I Shoulda gone stupid mode & picked up ram blocks, many more options for routing than just chipset>>cpu>>mosfets.


Heck, will try to make a duplicate (or something) of my new motherboard-tray and make a tech station and see if I rather use that, need one with the space for dual PSU's so ....

I have 2x EK-Dominator X4 with Acetal TOPS, not going to use them any more, but I am stationed in Norway ... PM if you are interested.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be really careful and wary as you work with your setup . . . . .
> 
> Most phase change setups are in reverse atx formats so that drips and frost melt doesn't always go right to the GPUs.
> 
> It's not just for aesthetic reasons that you normally see the phase setups reversed.
> 
> I know yours is not, so everything that drips is going to drip onto the back of the GPUs, and after a run and the frost/ice is melting, it has to drip, so be ready for it. . . Don't let it catch you off guard.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, have not been thinking too much of that, although, the guy (or company I bought it from) used it in normal orientated cases (LD Cooling PC-V10s). I could give him a call and hear around, the only thing he said was that I did not have to insulate as much as I thought I need to. I hear the opposite in here, have many packs of art eraser and I am going to take my time to make it good, as of the condense, *I have not really thought to much about it yet. There is a time for everything I guess*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can make a drip pan with a drain on it if he doesnt use reverse atx.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sure, I could just drag a steel plate from underneath the phase change to the front of my case somewhere, if it will it, I do not know, but it is worth a try. Fun project too, I think.
Click to expand...

Seeing as how you're getting closer to test day, that's why I mentioned it . . . .

The time to think about it and research it is now, not after it's a ball of frost and you want to turn it off.

Have you started a thread in the phase change section with some pics of your setup and asking about what drip and condensation issues you're likely to face and how others have worked around them.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Heck, will try to make a duplicate (or something) of my new motherboard-tray and make a tech station and see if I rather use that, need one with the space for dual PSU's so ....
> 
> I have 2x EK-Dominator X4 with Acetal TOPS, not going to use them any more, but I am stationed in Norway ... PM if you are interested.


It's so very tempting, but I must resist.

Gotta save money for the incoming girlfriend, and still have lots of Xmas shopping to do.

Thank you for your attempted generosity!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

wow my GT-30s are gonna be here tomorrow according to UPS my choice

the wow part is I think they are coming directly from scythe
says origin is in CA and coolerguys is in washington also when I checked email it said Scythe, INC.

wow I am pretty excited. I must say.

plus my last radiator for my desk got here today.
I might actually be able to get this thing together by the end of the year Oh joyous occasion


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> wow my GT-30s are gonna be here tomorrow according to UPS my choice
> 
> the wow part is I think they are coming directly from scythe
> says origin is in CA and coolerguys is in washington also when I checked email it said Scythe, INC.
> 
> wow I am pretty excited. I must say.
> 
> plus my last radiator for my desk got here today.
> I might actually be able to get this thing together by the end of the year Oh joyous occasion


you ordered 1,000 fans?

Would love to know the process you went through to get them to sell you a limited quantity.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i ordered from coolerguys. I don't know what they did. But I salute them. As they got me my fans...

LOL JUST WATCH I am gonna open that box tomorrow n its gonna be full of grand flexs

or just 5 ap-30s

lol holy crap what if I get a pallet of 1000 fans xD

no that turnover rate is too quick for a thousand fans, they shipped yesterday and I made the order lat ethursday or early friday. there was no way they'd just have a thousand sitting around.

But coolerguys seems to get new stock of AP-15s on amazon pretty frequently they may have something worked out with scytthe where they made 1000 fans for them but Scythe is holding onto them. especially since money for 1000 20$ fans is probably not easy to pony up


----------



## szeged

1000 fans, what has science done.


----------



## wermad

Any one gotten their ek black-friday order shipped yet? I opted for ups (vs dhl).

Ppcs.com also delayed my order. I guess one more week won't kill me







. Damn these sales (







).


----------



## szeged

auto correct strikes again

or fat fingers....


----------



## tatmMRKIV

performance got my order out pretty fast. Just showeed up today, despite having to cancel a portion due to stock


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Seeing as how you're getting closer to test day, that's why I mentioned it . . . .
> 
> The time to think about it and research it is now, not after it's a ball of frost and you want to turn it off.
> 
> Have you started a thread in the phase change section with some pics of your setup and asking about what drip and condensation issues you're likely to face and how others have worked around them.
> 
> Darlene


Yes, I know, have not really started thinking about insulating the board, have tons of mods to do before I get there (at least if I have to make a test bench too), anyways, what would be best, test bench (flat) or go for just making a whole new case which is reversed? I have the motherboard-tray and PCI-cover and IO-plate for the Corsair Air 540 still, could use those and make a new body, really cheap 1,2 mm thick steel plates locally so I could just make a reversed case, should not be too hard.


----------



## szeged

test bench gets my vote, much easier to use.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

test benches are pretty baller. depends on how often you plan on swapping parts out though. like if you are just going to be using the same components day in day out I'd use a case,


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> auto correct strikes again
> 
> or fat fingers....


lol, yup, Im on my cell. Waiting on ups to deliver my second sapphire. It's pouring but im hoping he'll s how.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> test bench gets my vote, much easier to use.


Yes, actually thought of getting a test bench when I was ordering the PC-V8, but I didn't.









Much easier to make also, but I would probably need a steel plate bender if I am going to build something at all, bending by hand is not recommended for plates that should be accurate.









How will it be with the water then? If the motherboard is horizontal I guess it will lie on the motherboard itself?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> test benches are pretty baller. depends on how often you plan on swapping parts out though. like if you are just going to be using the same components day in day out I'd use a case,


I am not planning on changing parts when it is properly setup, but you never know, I think the test bench is the right way to go for me (less work)


----------



## szeged

if you insulate properly water shouldnt be a problem at all on a horizontal mobo.

If you are good at tig welding you can make a bench system without a metal bending press.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lol, yup, Im on my cell. Waiting on ups to deliver my second sapphire. It's pouring but im hoping he'll s how.


I hope its not wet!
my rve was in a damp box. I was 90% sure it would be wet all up in its cpu socket and everything, but I THINK I lucked out.

What do you guys say about the socket rotting from the cold? i got into a little argument with some peltier cooler guys a while back cuz they were saying that phase was terrible because the prolonged cold would rot the socket's plastic and itd disintigrate.


----------



## szeged

insulate as best you can and hope for the best. A wet mobo/gpu from the rain wont be too bad if you can dry it off moderately fast. ive washed my mobos in the sink a few times lol.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I am just glad I live in PHX at times like these. we practically have negative humidity here
I couldnt tell it was wet by the time i got it inspected


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if you insulate properly water shouldnt be a problem at all on a horizontal mobo.
> 
> If you are good at tig welding you can make a bench system without a metal bending press.


I have never tried tig welding, so no.

Bender will be easier. ;-)


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have never tried tig welding, so no.
> 
> Bender will be easier. ;-)


its easy just dont ruin your tungsten


----------



## Ceadderman

Good drill, new rivets and a rivet gun is cheaper and more effective than TIG welding anything to make a horizontal system. Heck you could use an old case and canibalize it to make a horizontal platform even. I just drilled out the rivets necessary to 180 my mobo tray. Will have to drill the proper holes to get the external pieces back together but if I was going to phase, that would be the way to go and the cpu cooler won't be anywhere condensation could be hazardous to my other components except possibly on the top of the mainboard but as suggested that's solvable.

Since I am sticking to water I've no worries.









~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i ordered from coolerguys. I don't know what they did. But I salute them. As they got me my fans...
> 
> LOL JUST WATCH I am gonna open that box tomorrow n its gonna be full of grand flexs
> 
> or just 5 ap-30s
> 
> lol holy crap what if I get a pallet of 1000 fans xD
> 
> no that turnover rate is too quick for a thousand fans, they shipped yesterday and I made the order lat ethursday or early friday. there was no way they'd just have a thousand sitting around.
> 
> But coolerguys seems to get new stock of AP-15s on amazon pretty frequently they may have something worked out with scytthe where they made 1000 fans for them but Scythe is holding onto them. especially since money for 1000 20$ fans is probably not easy to pony up






haaa, coolerguys want $20 a slice. So, they were probably the lone company to pick up a pallot, though you did say its coming directly from scythe...


----------



## szeged

maybe they worked out a deal with scythe where they just drop ship all orders made from coolerguys?


----------



## MrStrat007

Maybe coolerguys has a warehouse in California?
Now I have to go back and look at my packing slips from them to see where they actually came from.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if you insulate properly water shouldnt be a problem at all on a horizontal mobo.
> 
> If you are good at tig welding you can make a bench system without a metal bending press.


Interesting to know. Wonder if the LD stuff can be snuck into a Case Labs S8..... And if I'm feeling crazy enough to go phase change.


----------



## pc-illiterate

how can they be coming from scythe?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> how can they be coming from scythe?


yeah, idk. Doesn't make sense due to them being the manufacturer. Even a dropship deal w/ a small firm like coolerguys doesn't really make sense.


----------



## pc-illiterate

scythe isnt a manufacturer. they were a distributor of nidec servo fans. once scythe's stock was gone, they had no more fans to sell.
coolerguys gentle typhoons come directly from nidec servo, aka the manufacturer.

*EDIT* read back about 2 dozen pages. nidec servo will sell anyone who can afford, i believe it's, 10,000 fans per order. right now coolerguys are the sole reseller of gentle typhoons ap-53, aka ap-15.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> scythe isnt a manufacturer. they were a distributor of nidec servo fans. once scythe's stock was gone, they had no more fans to sell.
> coolerguys gentle typhoons come directly from nidec servo, aka the manufacturer.
> 
> *EDIT* read back about 2 dozen pages. nidec servo will sell anyone who can afford, i believe it's, 10,000 fans per order. right now coolerguys are the sole reseller of gentle typhoons ap-53, aka ap-15.


derp, scythe on paper, nidec in my brains.

They renaimed AP-15 to AP-53? Or is that the Nidec branding.

The Scythe / Nidec relationship is completely severed, last I heard. Thus any fans coming from Scythe is obscenely improbable.

But i'm sure he just had his company names mixed up.









10,000 seems steep, I thought I had heard 1,000 but I've never seen a confirmation either way.. Still, CoolerGuys is selling them for $20 a pop. I paid like $12 for my of my AP-15s pre-scythe-drama.


----------



## pc-illiterate

ap-15/ap-53 is nidec's 'order' number.
i think its geggeg/vsg or maybe unicr0nhunter that came in giving the details. this thread has also been so not water cooling gallery over the last few pages....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ap-15/ap-53 is nidec's 'order' number.
> i think its geggeg/vsg or maybe unicr0nhunter that came in giving the details. this thread has also been so not water cooling gallery over the last few pages....



!!!(old picture from the 900DuD, but it's water!)

Sounds ripe for the Massdropping. In true Massdrop fashion we'll start them at like 10-25% higher than anyone ever actually sells them for, then get them down to $17.99 if you buy 100... That should work really well for Massdrop!


----------



## wermad

Parts prepping


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> derp, scythe on paper, nidec in my brains.
> 
> They renaimed AP-15 to AP-53? Or is that the Nidec branding.
> 
> The Scythe / Nidec relationship is completely severed, last I heard. Thus any fans coming from Scythe is obscenely improbable.
> 
> But i'm sure he just had his company names mixed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10,000 seems steep, I thought I had heard 1,000 but I've never seen a confirmation either way.. Still, CoolerGuys is selling them for $20 a pop. I paid like $12 for my of my AP-15s pre-scythe-drama.


Nidec's Minimum Order Quantity for Gentle Typhoons nowadays is indeed 10,000 fans per year and it's not something that's open to negotiation with them, as several have now found out. Dazmode was one. See here. It's no wonder Scythe and Nidec had a falling out.

As far as Nidec's naming conventions go, for example on the D1225C12B5AP-15, it's the part before the dash that identifies all the features of the fan. The part after the dash is the customer order number for that type of fan. D1225C12B5AP-15 was Scythe. D1225C12B5AP-53 is the number for the exact same fan that Coolerguys is now selling. Like WiSK noted, we should probably have been calling them "_B5APs instead of AP15s_".



Spoiler: Full explanation of Nidec's fan naming conventions



Go here: http://www.nidecamerica.com/partnumbers.htm#
Next to where is says "Model Names" click on the "Servo" logo and you will see a row of model numbering appear above it. By hovering over each part of the model number it explains what it means down below.

For example, in the D1225C12B5AP-**
D = DC powered tube axial fan
12 = 119 0r 120mm housing width
25 = 25.5mm housing depth
C = Plastic closed corner flanges
12 = 12v nominal operating voltage
B = Dual ball bearing
5 = the relative operating speed in the series (so for the Gentle Typhoon "D1225C (for low speed applications) Series" the '5' = 1850rpm)
A = Standard design
P = Open collector tachometer (2 wave pulses per revolution).

Whatever the number is after the dash just identifies for Nidec which customer order number it is for that fan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conwa*
> 
> Bad pictures, but gives you an idea of my setup!
> 
> Yes, I hate my case too, but it can handle the radiators and I am done with swapping everything to another case for now... (had to rebuild this 4 times thanks to failing 4790K's
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why hate on a solidly built case? Is it ugly? Yeah. But c'mon bro you're an enthusiast. I am sure you can make it look better than it was designed to look.

I'm in the process of extreme modding mine. Recently drilled out the 5.25 cage, HDD cage, and all the rivets holding the back and the MoBo tray in place and have flipped the back and the MB tray to 180 my build. Once I spend the $5 for black enameled rivets and put a rivet gun to work, I will be working on the doors to accept two 360 Rads/Shrouds and Intakes w/o hanging up when they're removed for maintenance. Then I am going to set to work modding the top to also hold a 360/shroud and Intake setup without carving up the top too much. And then I will set about fixing up the front so that while you will be able to tell that is indeed a HAF case it will still be different than any HAF mod I have seen. My dremel and metal shears are gonna be a happy lot over the next few months.

I'll be mounting my pumps and my Res in between the door Rads so they are out of site, so all you will see is the blocks and the tubing going to them as well as covering bottom so that no air penetrates through it except through the PSU. Haven't yet decided what I am going to do for paint yet but it's not like this build needs to punch a timeclock. lol









Nothing is ugly when you have the right attitude about it imho. Otherwise heck why even buy it if you think that it is? Surely you could get something more to your satisfaction when you were looking for a case. Unless you got it free of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> !!!(old picture from the 900DuD, but it's water!)
> 
> Sounds ripe for the Massdropping. In true Massdrop fashion we'll start them at like 10-25% higher than anyone ever actually sells them for, then get them down to $17.99 if you buy 100... That should work really well for Massdrop!


I'm rolling on the floor right now. Not really but had a good chuckle at that.


----------



## Chopper1591

Expanding my loop....
Thinking that I will be under-radded when I add my 290 tri-x to the loop.

Adding a 140mm radiator to accompany my UT60 360.
Yay, or nay?

Worth the money?

Can buy an EK XTC 140mm for ~30 euro, used(~6 months old).
Will need to buy a fan also, 10-20 euro.

A new ST30 240 rad will set me back 55 shipped.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its easy just dont ruin your tungsten


Thought about start to do TIG welding a while back, never got to start though.









I think the Corsair Air 540 will see the angle cutter, yet again







I think I will be able to use the motherboard-tray and the PCI-fastenings, maybe just do a duplicate of the motherboard-tray because that tray is so ridiculous ugly (and it is painted green and white) that does not help either. If I am building from the ground up it will get the Aston Martin Morning Frost White though.







Always wished to do a full B&W build. The LD Cooling PC-V8 will probably be set aside now.


----------



## VSG

For those looking at rad fans, here's a small test done on the EK Vardar F4 in this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15/50_50#post_23228529


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For those looking at rad fans, here's a small test done on the EK Vardar F4 in this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15/50_50#post_23228529


I like it.
Curious to prices when they start to roll out.

*
Still don't know what to do*....

Will expanding my loop with an XTC 140mm rad help a good deal? Or would I be better off by spending a little more and getting a 240.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For those looking at rad fans, here's a small test done on the EK Vardar F4 in this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15/50_50#post_23228529
> 
> 
> 
> I like it.
> Curious to prices when they start to roll out.
Click to expand...

^ - this ought to be ballpark ... - v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> On the Facebook page, they indicated it would be ~$18 or so for the 120mm ones.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> I'm rolling on the floor right now. Not really but had a good chuckle at that.










it's so true though.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol no Idea but here I will screen cap

I doubt coolerguys has a warehouse in ca seeing as they are in washington, I looked at their contact info.

well lets supposed you do need thousands of fans to order these...
Now no one can front that money in this business. so I think they just worked out a ESCROW type deal with scythe
probably not though

Baldwin Park, CA, United States 12/01/2014 4:38 P.M. The shipment has been dropped off and is now at The UPS Store®.



any chance they already are setup for PWM? Seeing they are newer?
or would I still have to solder that 4th wire?

I dunno they will be here tonight so I will thoroughly post their pics and details once they show up

I really just think its wierd what model numbers they have for sale. and they seem to have an unending stock of AP-15s


----------



## MrStrat007

I have a question about one of my AP-15's for you guys. I recently received 8 from coolerguys for one of my 480 radiators and tested them quick and dirty to make sure none were DOA through a breadboard with 12v power from a psu.

7 of them work perfectly but one seems to be unbalanced? It was vibrating it's way across my desk when standing vertical and I could feel it shaking in my hand when I held it whereas the other 7 were super smooth. Thoughts? Shipping back to Washington isn't the cheapest from Ontario.

-Strat


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> I have a question about one of my AP-15's for you guys. I recently received 8 from coolerguys for one of my 480 radiators and tested them quick and dirty to make sure none were DOA through a breadboard with 12v power from a psu.
> 
> 7 of them work perfectly but one seems to be *unbalanced*? It was vibrating it's way across my desk when standing vertical and I could feel it shaking in my hand when I held it whereas the other 7 were super smooth. Thoughts? Shipping back to Washington isn't the cheapest from Ontario.
> 
> -Strat


You kinda said it yourself.
Things happen.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> I have a question about one of my AP-15's for you guys. I recently received 8 from coolerguys for one of my 480 radiators and tested them quick and dirty to make sure none were DOA through a breadboard with 12v power from a psu.
> 
> 7 of them work perfectly but one seems to be unbalanced? It was vibrating it's way across my desk when standing vertical and I could feel it shaking in my hand when I held it whereas the other 7 were super smooth. Thoughts? Shipping back to Washington isn't the cheapest from Ontario.
> 
> -Strat


4 options:

a) Return and replace it.
b) order 2 more
c) use as it is if is possible
d) try to disassemble it and re-fix the blades to see if wobbling goes away

edit- believe me I known how you feel. Have a bunch of fans down here (Phanteks) with the same symptoms that I need to return to FZcpu (already approved) but will wait for my next trip to US to do it.


----------



## skupples

All you need is some heat gun action, right?

The real question becomes if you can hear it's imbalance when its on a rad, in a systems with 234234234 other fans.


----------



## skupples

breaking the 6 hours of silence.

Got the XSPC REV 3 480 in today.

Very sexy & solid feeling unit, it's also obscenely clean compared to the handful of Alphacool rads i've dealt with.

Only thing that through me off is that it ONLY has 4 ports... I kinda figured it had the standard 2 and 2 w/ the 2 on the end, either way, not a big deal. Just need to find a new place to stick my temp sensor... hmm... That means i'm going to lose a bleeder valve


----------



## tatmMRKIV

It's here. In a manufacture box.;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iu2lop1r8jv4tgj/20141203_175154.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a90o0s7x1648ds0/20141203_174929.jpg?dl=0
return label says coolerguys but it doesnt make much sense otherwise


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> breaking the 6 hours of silence.
> 
> Got the XSPC REV 3 480 in today.
> 
> Very sexy & solid feeling unit, it's also obscenely clean compared to the handful of Alphacool rads i've dealt with.
> 
> Only thing that through me off is that it ONLY has 4 ports... I kinda figured it had the standard 2 and 2 w/ the 2 on the end, either way, not a big deal. Just need to find a new place to stick my temp sensor... hmm... That means i'm going to lose a bleeder valve


a tee?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> It's here. In a manufacture box.;


pictures


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> a tee?
> pictures


Possible. I don't really have a lot of open space. I know people think gobs of space when working in a Caselabs case but... i made quick work of it.



Seems like a T or Y fitting would lead to stagnate water chilling @ the end of the fitting, is this not the case?

actually... what am i saying... 4 ports is enough. 1 in, 1 out, 1 drain, 1 sensor... derp.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Possible. I don't really have a lot of open space. I know people think gobs of space when working in a Caselabs case but... i made quick work of it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like a T or Y fitting would lead to stagnate water chilling @ the end of the fitting, is this not the case?
> 
> actually... what am i saying... 4 ports is enough. 1 in, 1 out, 1 drain, 1 sensor... derp.


yep. Besides the xspc rx v3 is around 56 mm widths which is less that those rads in your picture


----------



## tatmMRKIV

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a90o0s7x1648ds0/20141203_174929.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iu2lop1r8jv4tgj/20141203_175154.jpg?dl=0


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep. Besides the xspc rx v3 is around 56 mm widths which is less that those rads in your picture


yeah, the rev 3 is much skinnier than the EK 60s, which i'm going to guess are quite a bit wider than 60.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/a90o0s7x1648ds0/20141203_174929.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/iu2lop1r8jv4tgj/20141203_175154.jpg?dl=0


which models did you get again? was it AP30? I don't remember the distributor order code... I don't remember any of them being black! Wonder if its an improvement.

Kinda interesting that NIDEC is being such a hardass about getting their fans out. They are by far one of the most popular series I've ever seen.

does the shipping show that it passed through JP customs?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/a90o0s7x1648ds0/20141203_174929.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/iu2lop1r8jv4tgj/20141203_175154.jpg?dl=0


nice so they did came from nidec-servo and not scythe from what I can see of that box inside the plastic. Or there is any Scythe markings on it? The funny thing is the model name still been ap-30. cool


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yeah, the rev 3 is much skinnier than the EK 60s, which i'm going to guess are quite a bit wider than 60.
> which models did you get again? was it AP30? I don't remember the distributor order code... I don't remember any of them being black! Wonder if its an improvement.
> 
> Kinda interesting that NIDEC is being such a hardass about getting their fans out. They are by far one of the most popular series I've ever seen.
> 
> does the shipping show that it passed through JP customs?


It was AP-30s and no japan customs.
I think they were at scythe and they just took 2 fans out of the 30-pack

i find it interesting its in full consumer packaging. I figured theyd be in cardboard

the box has japanese stickers on it so it was through customs at some point

I put one on my gaming rig for shlitz & gigs and its funny I can't hear them over my headphones xD

nope they are Nidec too I dont even see scythe on the box

wait wait wait there is a scythe logo on the side..
maybe they are still in production in asia.

lot is 2K01
D1225c12b9ap-30


----------



## emsj86

I read that the primochill ghost fittings 1/4 thread is too large for ek waterblock and causes some flow issues. Now I searched the web and can't find out if the pc revolver have a 5mm or less 1/4 thread. So I figure if anyone knows you guys do. I have ek gpu block and supremacy block and since I'm going with primchi fittings I need to have 5mm less 1/4 thread to not have some restricted flow. I know I can use spacers but ek slavers don't fit right


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I read that the primochill ghost fittings 1/4 thread is too large for ek waterblock and causes some flow issues. Now I searched the web and can't find out if the pc revolver have a 5mm or less 1/4 thread. So I figure if anyone knows you guys do. I have ek gpu block and supremacy block and since I'm going with primchi fittings I need to have 5mm less 1/4 thread to not have some restricted flow. I know I can use spacers but ek slavers don't fit right


I have some primochill ghost fittings and the thread is only 1mm longer, so 6mm. I have been using them with an EK supremacy block and 770 block and have never had any issues. If there is any flow restriction is will be very minimal, no where near enough to cause issues. I had them running for about a year and temps were under 45 for both at load, but I have been running my D5 at near to max.


----------



## emsj86

Ok cool thank you for the information. It was just what I heard I have no info to prove facts on it


----------



## wermad

Has anyone tried the oil-based paint that's not spray? Biggest complaint is long dry time but finish might be better for a noob like me rather then the can (which always goes wrong for me). For rads btw


----------



## tatmMRKIV

what is everyones feelings on the bitspower monoblock vsthe ek monoblocks for the rve?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Has anyone tried the oil-based paint that's not spray? Biggest complaint is long dry time but finish might be better for a noob like me rather then the can (which always goes wrong for me). For rads btw


Don't do it Werm. Better off using rustoleum. Or getting a paint gun and applying house of color paint.









~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what is everyones feelings on the bitspower monoblock vsthe ek monoblocks for the rve?


both are hideous, and that form factor should have stayed with mini-mobos.

I much rather use the same CPU block endlessly


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what is everyones feelings on the bitspower monoblock vsthe ek monoblocks for the rve?
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Much rather invest in one block than many blocks. Still on supreme here. Though I coulda kept the Supremacy v1 that was accidentally shipped to me when I recieved my ordered Supreme. Lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> both are hideous, and that form factor should have stayed with mini-mobos.
> 
> I much rather use the same CPU block endlessly
Click to expand...


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Has anyone tried the oil-based paint that's not spray? Biggest complaint is long dry time but finish might be better for a noob like me rather then the can (which always goes wrong for me).


You mean with a roller or brush?

Oil pulls better with a brush, and _CAN_ have better results compared to acrylic when both are properly applied...but it is not easier to work with. Acrylic rattle cans are by far quicker and easier, and will give a non-pro painter better results.

I have never made a full time living as a painter, but I have a couple tips that I have learned the hard way with rattle cans:

dont start, stop, turn, or change speed or distance of your spray with it pointed at your target. you want to mimic a mechanical device that only has one axis and one speed and height. less paint per coat is always a safe bet. a very quick hit with a fine grit sand paper and then a damp cloth in between coats.. avoid satin paints because they show EVERYTHING, high gloss hides imperfections better. If you taped something off, score the paint gently with a razor to avoid tearing and lifting when pulling it off.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't do it Werm. Better off using rustoleum. Or getting a paint gun and applying house of color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> You mean with a roller or brush?
> 
> Oil pulls better with a brush, and _CAN_ have better results compared to acrylic when both are properly applied...but it is not easier to work with. Acrylic rattle cans are by far quicker and easier, and will give a non-pro painter better results.
> 
> I have never made a full time living as a painter, but I have a couple tips that I have learned the hard way with rattle cans:
> 
> dont start, stop, turn, or change speed or distance of your spray with it pointed at your target. you want to mimic a mechanical device that only has one axis and one speed and height. less paint per coat is always a safe bet. a very quick hit with a fine grit sand paper and then a damp cloth in between coats.. avoid satin paints because they show EVERYTHING, high gloss hides imperfections better. If you taped something off, score the paint gently with a razor to avoid tearing and lifting when pulling it off.
Click to expand...

Yup, the one you buy in pints. I've had bad luck with rattles. One piece always seems to get messed up. I was thinking of using a foam roller for flat surfaces using oil-paint. Its rustoleum semi-gloss. thanks guys, +1

Decisions







....

edit: its raining pretty good down here so rattles may be out of the question. I did use the restoleum oil on a door and it came out pretty decent looking.


----------



## fakeblood

Made a few changes

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/changes_zps48d2cfc4.jpg.html


----------



## soulreaper05

Looks clean!! I love that color red! Is that a blend, or did it come that way?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Has anyone tried the oil-based paint that's not spray? Biggest complaint is long dry time but finish might be better for a noob like me rather then the can (which always goes wrong for me).
> 
> 
> 
> You mean with a roller or brush?
> 
> Oil pulls better with a brush, and _CAN_ have better results compared to acrylic when both are properly applied...but it is not easier to work with. Acrylic rattle cans are by far quicker and easier, and will give a non-pro painter better results.
> 
> I have never made a full time living as a painter, but I have a couple tips that I have learned the hard way with rattle cans:
> 
> dont start, stop, turn, or change speed or distance of your spray with it pointed at your target. you want to mimic a mechanical device that only has one axis and one speed and height. less paint per coat is always a safe bet. a very quick hit with a fine grit sand paper and then a damp cloth in between coats.. avoid satin paints because they show EVERYTHING, high gloss hides imperfections better. If you taped something off, score the paint gently with a razor to avoid tearing and lifting when pulling it off.
Click to expand...

Much wrong with this.
Gloss shows everything. Do not use a damp cloth between coats-sand and tack rag,no fluids other than a thinner wipe.

You method should be gun on before hitting the panel,continue until you are off panel then stop gun.

If you use cans,leave them in hot water for around 30 mins before use,the paint gets better atomisation and flashes off better.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Made a few changes
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/changes_zps48d2cfc4.jpg.html


Relevant, in more ways than one












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Looks clean!! I love that color red! Is that a blend, or did it come that way?


Plot Twist, fakeblood actually used real blood


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Much wrong with this.
> Gloss shows everything.


You are correct, my statement was 100% backwards...must of had my head on backwards when I was typing...I apologize. Thanks for catching that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do not use a damp cloth between coats-sand and tack rag,no fluids other than a thinner wipe.


Have been doing that for years, as long as they are allowed to dry, slightly damp with water has not done me any harm in between coats, and aides in picking up particles just fine. Thinner is not generally something that gets purchased when rattle cans are being used. Thinner just dries quicker leaving less time in between coats, and less time for dust to settle again, so is a supperior product, but not the only way to get good results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You method should be gun on before hitting the panel,continue until you are off panel then stop gun.


We are in agreement on this, but I think you said it better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you use cans,leave them in hot water for around 30 mins before use,the paint gets better atomisation and flashes off better.


never thought to put them in water, just not to store/use them outside in the cold weather.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hmmm now what based paint is this method for, I've been using Montana Gold's Acrylic based sprays to paint my cases (love the different nozzles they have as well)

And I'm with the school of thought of using a tack cloth vs moist cloth but is again dependant on the time I have for spraying between coats


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Much wrong with this.
> Gloss shows everything.
> 
> 
> 
> You are correct, my statement was 100% backwards...must of had my head on backwards when I was typing...I apologize. Thanks for catching that.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do not use a damp cloth between coats-sand and tack rag,no fluids other than a thinner wipe.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have been doing that for years, as long as they are allowed to dry, slightly damp with water has not done me any harm in between coats, and aides in picking up particles just fine. Thinner is not generally something that gets purchased when rattle cans are being used. Thinner just dries quicker leaving less time in between coats, and less time for dust to settle again, so is a supperior product, but not the only way to get good results.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You method should be gun on before hitting the panel,continue until you are off panel then stop gun.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We are in agreement on this, but I think you said it better.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you use cans,leave them in hot water for around 30 mins before use,the paint gets better atomisation and flashes off better.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> never thought to put them in water, just not to store/use them outside in the cold weather.
Click to expand...

Dont get me wrong,for some chrome finishes,a damp rag is required between coats to get that mirror effect,its not something I have ever done tho...your idea has merit but its an extra point of f-up for the layman. Personally,I use paint wipes,fast drying and they dont react with the paint.
Cold and damp is your enemy as a sprayer.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> Looks clean!! I love that color red! Is that a blend, or did it come that way?


Its mayhems pastel red with about 10- 15 drops of red dye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Relevant, in more ways than one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plot Twist, fakeblood actually used real blood


Always love me a fb tune (inspiration for my alias actually). So yes that video was very very relevant


----------



## Gobigorgohome

My case could not have been more ghetto than this ...


----------



## HackManSD

Nothing fancy, especially comparing it to some of these other systems. Definitely a work in progress and will be doing a build log for the upcoming changes.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cold and damp is your enemy as a sprayer.


followed closely by wind and pollen.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> followed closely by wind and pollen.


Followed by kids wanting to touch wet paint.


----------



## lowfat

So jelly of people who can actually get high quality spray paint.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HackManSD*
> 
> Nothing fancy, especially comparing it to some of these other systems. Definitely a work in progress and will be doing a build log for the upcoming changes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










But you should try using a tripod or more light so you don't get the blurring in the photo.

Finished the loop today. Should be 100% complete by next weekend.











Not looking forward to bleeding this thing.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So jelly of people who can actually get high quality spray paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you should try using a tripod or more light so you don't get the blurring in the photo.
> 
> Finished the loop today. Should be 100% complete by next weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not looking forward to bleeding this thing.






eh, won't be THAT bad... Just put the whole thing w/ the raid on the ground, should mostly bleed itself.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> eh, won't be THAT bad... Just put the whole thing w/ the raid on the ground, should mostly bleed itself.


The only place I can fill or bleed the loop is either the bottom of the reservoir or the bottom of the front rad. I'll have to continually flip the case upside down, then back right side up.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The only place I can fill or bleed the loop is either the bottom of the reservoir or the bottom of the front rad. I'll have to continually flip the case upside down, then back right side up.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The only place I can fill or bleed the loop is either the bottom of the reservoir or the bottom of the front rad. I'll have to continually flip the case upside down, then back right side up.


That's actually my reasoning for getting a bitspower res instead of the photon like originally planned. I definitely don't recommend getting a new res at this point but it's not too late to get a new top rad with a fill port up top. The extra cost might be worth the hassle.


----------



## Ceadderman

A sweet system like that missing a fill/drain port is like a prostitute missing arms and legs.









~Ceadder


----------



## skupples




----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A sweet system like that missing a fill/drain port is like a prostitute missing arms and legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That is awesome! Lmao


----------



## emsj86

Absolutely love the build low fat. So clean yt simple. The sleeving of the arylic and the way you have the cables ran flat from the psu. Amazing top notch. What type/brand of fittings and tubing are you using for this build


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> That's actually my reasoning for getting a bitspower res instead of the photon like originally planned. I definitely don't recommend getting a new res at this point but it's not too late to get a new top rad with a fill port up top. The extra cost might be worth the hassle.


The Photon is a terrible reservoir. I wouldn't ever buy one again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A sweet system like that missing a fill/drain port is like a prostitute missing arms and legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So you mean it is nice to have but not exactly required?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Absolutely love the build low fat. So clean yt simple. The sleeving of the arylic and the way you have the cables ran flat from the psu. Amazing top notch. What type/brand of fittings and tubing are you using for this build


Thanks. Fittings and tubing are both Primochill. All the compression rings were drilled out to allow for the extra space the sleeving takes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont get me wrong,for some chrome finishes,a damp rag is required between coats to get that mirror effect,its not something I have ever done tho...your idea has merit but its an extra point of f-up for the layman. Personally,I use paint wipes,fast drying and they dont react with the paint.
> Cold and damp is your enemy as a sprayer.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> followed closely by wind and pollen.
Click to expand...

Ty gents, its still raining in SoCal and I'm not going to risk it. I found a few cans of gloss white I stowed away. I'll practice on a piece of scrap to hone my skills. this vid helped a lot:


----------



## skupples

great news























The Bitspower male / male Rotary is the exact same size as the Alphacool male / male rotary.

unfortunately, the 90s aren't the same height or length, so it's going to require some rigging to set it up w/o ANY alphacool parts, though their rotary male/female rotaries rarely leak, it's just their damned male / males.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So jelly of people who can actually get high quality spray paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you should try using a tripod or more light so you don't get the blurring in the photo.
> 
> Finished the loop today. Should be 100% complete by next weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not looking forward to bleeding this thing.


That pump is so pretty with the contrasting two tone acrylic / acetal and nickel cover. Just a shame about the Res its connected to.


----------



## TRusselo

check out my water cooled build log!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1525312/build-log-heatkiller-rev-3-0-gpu-x3-79x0-gpu-x3-r9-280x

Heatkiller GPU3 nickel/black blocks x2
Heatkiller Rev 3.0 AM3 block nickel/black
alphacool most everything else....


----------



## emsj86

what monsoon fittings for primochill petg 3/8 x 1.2 id do not require glue. I m debating on either getting the chrome monsoon as long as i dont have to glue them after the fact or the primochill revolver chrome.


----------



## gponcho

Hi Guys need a bit of advise.

Started upgrading my current build to Ridged *(Monsoon Tubing)* tubing. Question, I purchased the *monsoon hard line economy compression fittings* and was wondering if I needed any additional items such as end caps to keep the tube nice and tight within the fitting?

Also I may need to purchase (if available) a couple 45 degree connectors for hardline tubing. Does anyone know of any that will work with the Monsoon Tubing?

Additional information:

Tubing - Monsoon Hardline Tube 3/8 x 1/2 - 4 Pack - White

Fittings - Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fittings 6 Pack, 3/8" x 1/2" - White

Many thanks


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Hi Guys need a bit of advise.
> 
> Started upgrading my current build to Ridged *(Monsoon Tubing)* tubing. Question, I purchased the *monsoon hard line economy compression fittings* and was wondering if I needed any additional items such as end caps to keep the tube nice and time within the fitting?
> 
> Also I may need to purchase (if available) a couple 45 degree connectors for hardline tubing. Does anyone know of any that will work with the Monsoon Tubing?


By end caps do you mean compression rings? because if you have purchased the hardline upgrade kit that uses existing compression rings from the soft tube fittings, then yes. But if you bought the fittings then they should be fine, no need for anything extra.

And the 45 degree fittings, are you talking about the ones with the built in tube fittings? because if so it depends on the supported OD of the fitting and OD of the tube. If they are just normal 45 fittings then the monsoon fittings will just screw into those.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Hi Guys need a bit of advise.
> 
> Started upgrading my current build to Ridged *(Monsoon Tubing)* tubing. Question, I purchased the *monsoon hard line economy compression fittings* and was wondering if I needed any additional items such as end caps to keep the tube nice and time within the fitting?
> 
> Also I may need to purchase (if available) a couple 45 degree connectors for hardline tubing. Does anyone know of any that will work with the Monsoon Tubing?
> 
> Additional information:
> 
> Tubing - Monsoon Hardline Tube 3/8 x 1/2 - 4 Pack - White
> Fittings - Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fittings 6 Pack, 3/8" x 1/2" - White
> 
> Many thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Hi Guys need a bit of advise.
> 
> Started upgrading my current build to Ridged *(Monsoon Tubing)* tubing. Question, I purchased the *monsoon hard line economy compression fittings* and was wondering if I needed any additional items such as end caps to keep the tube nice and time within the fitting?
> 
> Also I may need to purchase (if available) a couple 45 degree connectors for hardline tubing. Does anyone know of any that will work with the Monsoon Tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By end caps do you mean compression rings? because if you have purchased the hardline upgrade kit that uses existing compression rings from the soft tube fittings, then yes. But if you bought the fittings then they should be fine, no need for anything extra.
> 
> And the 45 degree fittings, are you talking about the ones with the built in tube fittings? because if so it depends on the supported OD of the fitting and OD of the tube. If they are just normal 45 fittings then the monsoon fittings will just screw into those.
Click to expand...

The Monsoon economy series is an all inclusive fitting that compresses an o ring to create the seal. . . . no additional bits required

End caps would usually refer to the plastic collared sleeves that glue on to use with their regular line of compression collars.

As far as the 45* connectors, are you needing a 45* angle in the middle of a tubing run, or a way to have the fitting come off a block at a 45* angle?

If you mean off a block at 45*, then all the fitting brands have a fitting for that . . . . if you mean a 45* angle in the middle of a tubing run, then I think it's just Bitspower that has "tubing to tubing" angle fittings . . . . and they only work for 12mm tube, not 1/2", . . . . so you'll probably have to bend your mid-tube 45*.

Darlene


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Monsoon economy series is an all inclusive fitting that compresses an o ring to create the seal. . . . no additional bits required
> 
> End caps would usually refer to the plastic collared sleeves that glue on to use with their regular line of compression collars.
> 
> As far as the 45* connectors, are you needing a 45* angle in the middle of a tubing run, or a way to have the fitting come off a block at a 45* angle?
> 
> If you mean off a block at 45*, then all the fitting brands have a fitting for that . . . . if you mean a 45* angle in the middle of a tubing run, then I think it's just Bitspower that has "tubing to tubing" angle fittings . . . . and they only work for 12mm tube, not 1/2", . . . . so you'll probably have to bend your mid-tube 45*.
> 
> Darlene


Hi *Darlene & Jakewat*

Thanks for your input. The issue is that I have a Cosmos II case with a *360 (black Ice)* rad at the top. I have it configured in a push pull method with the rad connections located at the front of the case. The reason that the connections are located at the front of the case instead of the rear is due to the fact that I do not have sufficient space at the rear due to my motherboards (Asus Maximus Formula VII) built in cross chill cooler. I am using BitFenix Spectre Pro 120 fans for my push pull configuration.

I was think I can only do a pull configuration however would the current fans do the job without the temps increasing? The image displayed is my current setup with regular tubing and my current Maximus Formula V motherboard (which I am replacing).



The issue is that it would be very tight to install the tubing unless I can attach a 45 degree connector to the rad. I would like to keep my DVD drive. As mentioned I purchased the Monsoon Hardline tubing and I want to get the correct connector that will fit the tubing (3/8 x 1/2). I have the Monsoon bending kit and do not plan to add any additional connectors except for the 2 - 45 degree connectors I mentioned.

Did not see any Monsoon 45 degree fittings (unless I missed it).

Many thanks

George


----------



## emsj86

Has anyone or will anyone review the primochill infused fluids. Kinda like some of the colors but primochill fluids as I heard don't have a good reputation so curious as to maybe these infused fluids wi be a step in the right directions.


----------



## Cyclops




----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Monsoon economy series is an all inclusive fitting that compresses an o ring to create the seal. . . . no additional bits required
> 
> End caps would usually refer to the plastic collared sleeves that glue on to use with their regular line of compression collars.
> 
> As far as the 45* connectors, are you needing a 45* angle in the middle of a tubing run, or a way to have the fitting come off a block at a 45* angle?
> 
> If you mean off a block at 45*, then all the fitting brands have a fitting for that . . . . if you mean a 45* angle in the middle of a tubing run, then I think it's just Bitspower that has "tubing to tubing" angle fittings . . . . and they only work for 12mm tube, not 1/2", . . . . so you'll probably have to bend your mid-tube 45*.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hi *Darlene & Jakewat*
> 
> Thanks for your input. The issue is that I have a Cosmos II case with a *360 (black Ice)* rad at the top. I have it configured in a push pull method with the rad connections located at the front of the case. The reason that the connections are located at the front of the case instead of the rear is due to the fact that I do not have sufficient space at the rear due to my motherboards (Asus Maximus Formula VII) built in cross chill cooler. I am using BitFenix Spectre Pro 120 fans for my push pull configuration.
> 
> I was think I can only do a pull configuration however would the current fans do the job without the temps increasing? The image displayed is my current setup with regular tubing and my current Maximus Formula V motherboard (which I am replacing).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The issue is that it would be very tight to install the tubing unless I can attach a 45 degree connector to the rad. I would like to keep my DVD drive. As mentioned I purchased the Monsoon Hardline tubing and I want to get the correct connector that will fit the tubing (3/8 x 1/2). I have the Monsoon bending kit and do not plan to add any additional connectors except for the 2 - 45 degree connectors I mentioned.
> 
> Did not see any Monsoon 45 degree fittings (unless I missed it).
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> George
Click to expand...

If I understand you correctly, something like this between your Monsoon tube fitting and the rad is what you're looking for?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7928/ex-tub-372/Bitspower_G14_Thread_45-Degree_Rotary_Adapter_-_Silver_BP-45R.html?tl=g30c101s1305

Darlene


----------



## VSG




----------



## morencyam

That was a beautiful video, VSG. I've always been fond of exploded views of anything


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If I understand you correctly, something like this between your Monsoon tube fitting and the rad is what you're looking for?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7928/ex-tub-372/Bitspower_G14_Thread_45-Degree_Rotary_Adapter_-_Silver_BP-45R.html?tl=g30c101s1305
> 
> Darlene


Yes that should do the job. Thanks.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That was a beautiful video, VSG. I've always been fond of exploded views of anything


Just to clarify in case there was a misunderstanding, that was Fractal's own video. I simply shared it. Their original model was based off Alphacool rads and had a fill port I believe for expansion, which then never came out and probably wouldn't have in the US. This one looks like a copper radiator, but not sure.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just to clarify in case there was a misunderstanding, that was Fractal's own video. I simply shared it. Their original model was based off Alphacool rads and had a fill port I believe for expansion, which then never came out and probably wouldn't have in the US. This one looks like a copper radiator, but not sure.


I assumed that. I was just thanking you for posting it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just to clarify in case there was a misunderstanding, that was Fractal's own video. I simply shared it. Their original model was based off Alphacool rads and had a fill port I believe for expansion, which then never came out and probably wouldn't have in the US. This one looks like a copper radiator, but not sure.


Is it that another Asetek design VSG?


----------



## VSG

Doesn't look like it. If you look at this video from Computex this year,






From 5:15 onwards, Logan mentions no US availability thanks to the Asetek patent. The product is in collaboration with Alphacool and uses their ST30 and XT45 rads I believe.

Edit:






Actually doesn't look like it has changed at all from the teaser video posted today and these in here.


----------



## skupples

definitely looks like an ACool rad.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, interesting. I wonder what pump is inside.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> definitely looks like an *Magicool* rad.


FTFY

Makers of the manrad.



Although,saying that,those endtanks are pure alphastool

EDIT..I should of watched the video,Alphastool rads eh.....pass on that i think.....


----------



## cyphon

Any one use the Parvum Systems F1.0 Performance Pressure Optimised Fans on rads yet? Trying to get an idea of performance, but mainly noise levels.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/parvum-systems-f1-0-performance-pressure-optimised-fan-white.html

they definitely have a fresh look


----------



## tatmMRKIV

They are alpenphon rebrands they are supposed to be good


----------



## Ballnazzar

My new rig


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ballnazzar*
> 
> My new rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I congratulate you, thats an awesome first post. Good work!









Did you purchase a bending kit, because those bends look very good.


----------



## Ballnazzar

Thanks







. I have used moonson kit for beding of acrylic tubes.


----------



## VSG

They are rebranded Alpenfoehn Wingboosts, right?


----------



## Ballnazzar

They are AeroCool Dead Silence Red Edition 140 mm (if you meant fans).


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They are rebranded Alpenfoehn Wingboosts, right?


99% sure they are.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ballnazzar*
> 
> They are AeroCool Dead Silence Red Edition 140 mm (if you meant fans).


Sorry I hadn't refreshed the page and didn't realize more posts had popped up. That post was about the Parvum fans, but those Aerocool ones are pretty good looking too if I do say so myself!


----------



## psycho84

Proud Owner of a S8 ^^ More Pics coming soon


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Proud Owner of a S8 ^^ More Pics coming soon


Bravo!







I am digging that setup bubba!!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Proud Owner of a S8 ^^ More Pics coming soon


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bravo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am digging that setup bubba!!


Agreed, that looks really nice. I like how you have the reservoir mounted. Maybe because most other S8's I've seen have been white, but that black reminds me of a horizontal case I was attempting to build at one point. Never got finished and mine was quite a bit bigger though. I'll dig through my pictures and see if I can find it


----------



## emsj86

How much performance would I see temp wise if I added two fans to my bottom 240 rad to have push pull. I have pull on both 360 and 240. I can't do push pull on the 360 but would the price of two more quiet edition corsair fans be worth it for push pull on the 240 rad?


----------



## WilliamGayde

Custom loop using Swiftech's H220X and H240X in a Fractal Design ARC XL


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> How much performance would I see temp wise if I added two fans to my bottom 240 rad to have push pull. I have pull on both 360 and 240. I can't do push pull on the 360 but would the price of two more quiet edition corsair fans be worth it for push pull on the 240 rad?


how thick is the rad/what rad is it?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> They are alpenphon rebrands they are supposed to be good


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They are rebranded Alpenfoehn Wingboosts, right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> 99% sure they are.


Thanks guys


----------



## SamuelITRW

Hello you guys! Sam from ITRW here posting our latest creation!

Intel i7-5960X Running 4.65GHz
Asus Rampage V Extreme Motherboard
32GBs of Corsair Vengeance DDR4-2666 Memory
Samsung 840 EVO 512GB for Windows 8.1
Samsung 840 EVO 256GB for OS X Yosemite
2X 2TB Western Digital Hard Drives for storage
Dual Asus Strix GTX 980 4GB Graphics Cards in SLI
Corsair SP120's on the Rads and AF140's on the front
Corsair AX1200i With Custom Sleeved Wires
NZXT Hue Lighting Kit
EK Supremacy CPU Water Block
Swiftech 480mm Radiators
Bitspower 250ml Tube Res
Monsoon fittings all around
Asus ROG Controller in front panel
Aero Cool Touch 2100 Fan Controller
Matched the Coolant color with the Custom Sleeves


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamuelITRW*
> 
> Hello you guys! Sam from ITRW here posting our latest creation!
> 
> Intel i7-5960X Running 4.65GHz
> Asus Rampage V Extreme Motherboard
> 32GBs of Corsair Vengeance DDR4-2666 Memory
> Samsung 840 EVO 512GB for Windows 8.1
> Samsung 840 EVO 256GB for OS X Yosemite
> 2X 2TB Western Digital Hard Drives for storage
> Dual Asus Strix GTX 980 4GB Graphics Cards in SLI
> Corsair SP120's on the Rads and AF140's on the front
> Corsair AX1200i With Custom Sleeved Wires
> NZXT Hue Lighting Kit
> EK Supremacy CPU Water Block
> Swiftech 480mm Radiators
> Bitspower 250ml Tube Res
> Monsoon fittings all around
> Asus ROG Controller in front panel
> Aero Cool Touch 2100 Fan Controller
> Matched the Coolant color with the Custom Sleeves


case?


----------



## Jakusonfire

That must be one red hot cpu


----------



## SamuelITRW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> case?


Corsair 900D of course.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> case?


dats a, what I like to call, a 900Dud

He will no doubt face the same problems most of us faced. Rattling, weak structural integrity, & overall disappointment, it will just take some time to sink in.

The case is built in such a fashion that it requires the drive bays for structural integrity. Remove them, and the entire case will flex ( I had 2 of them before saying AWWW HELL NAWWW))

Don't get me wrong. His build is great looking, but the case is a major failure when you compare it to what Corsair sold it as. (Sold it as Watercooling dream, but sorry, relying on drive bays for integrity = not a watercooling dream)

the hardcore modders have got around it via custom build back plates that attach to the front panel (AKA, Mister Robo-cop him self)


----------



## SamuelITRW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> dats a, what I like to call, a 900D
> 
> He will no doubt face the same problems most of us faced. Rattling, weak structural integrity, & overall disappointment, it will just take some time to sink in.
> 
> The case is built in such a fashion that it requires the drive bays for structural integrity. Remove them, and the entire case will flex ( I had 2 of them before saying AWWW HELL NAWWW))
> 
> Don't get me wrong. His build is great looking, but the case is a major failure when you compare it to what Corsair sold it as. (Sold it as Watercooling dream, but sorry, relying on drive bays for integrity = not a watercooling dream)
> 
> the hardcore modders have got around it via custom build back plates that attach to the front panel (AKA, Mister Robo-cop him self)


Yeah, you hit the nail on the head.
The biggest annoyance so far has been those little panels on the bottom. They fall off randomly, sometimes without being touched at all.

Once the EK GPU Blocks come into stock at Frozen, we'll probably move into something more sturdy...

Or just mod the crap out of this one!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamuelITRW*
> 
> Yeah, you hit the nail on the head.
> The biggest annoyance so far has been those little panels on the bottom. They fall off randomly, sometimes without being touched at all.
> 
> Once the EK Blocks come into stock at Frozen, we'll probably move into something more sturdy...
> 
> Or just mod the crap out of this one!


it's really simple, actually. Cut out the drive bays & measure out a piece of metal that acts as a mobo shroud and a stability enhancer that takes the place of the drive bays.

Go look @ the Robocop build, it will give you a great idea of how to shore up the engineering failures,

Just don't get me wrong! The build looks great, I just know the nightmares of 900D.


----------



## SamuelITRW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it's really simple, actually. Cut out the drive bays & measure out a piece of metal that acts as a mobo shroud and a stability enhancer that takes the place of the drive bays.
> 
> Go look @ the Robocop build, it will give you a great idea of how to shore up the engineering failures,
> 
> Just don't get me wrong! The build looks great, I just know the nightmares of 900D.


Thanks, I'll head over there now and check it out.


----------



## Tunz

How's the quality of the Primochill PETG tubing? I'm currently using the PETG from McMaster, but there are tiny scratches all over.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> dats a, what I like to call, a 900Dud
> 
> He will no doubt face the same problems most of us faced. Rattling, weak structural integrity, & overall disappointment, it will just take some time to sink in.
> 
> The case is built in such a fashion that it requires the drive bays for structural integrity. Remove them, and the entire case will flex ( I had 2 of them before saying AWWW HELL NAWWW))
> 
> Don't get me wrong. His build is great looking, but the case is a major failure when you compare it to what Corsair sold it as. (Sold it as Watercooling dream, but sorry, relying on drive bays for integrity = not a watercooling dream)
> 
> the hardcore modders have got around it via custom build back plates that attach to the front panel (AKA, Mister Robo-cop him self)


Its funny that I am reading this because I am currently housed in a 750D and really thought that I got a bunk case because of the flex in it! I started thinking I should case change and Really thought that the 900D would be a better option until researching around. Now, I have made the Dive for a SMA8 Caselabs. Currently waiting on the fullfuillment from Caselabs for my XMAS present







The Case from Caselabs DID NOT cost a mere 269$ like the 900D does though. I have to swallow sum guilt before pressing the Purchase button from CaseLabs for 750$ That was a lick to the bank. This case should assist me in some pleasures too right?

The Cautious ONe


----------



## The Storm

I understand that there are alot of mixed feelings towards the 900D, I managed to land it for $200 on black friday and so far I must say, I am enjoying my current build in progress.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think the CL cases do dirty thing behind closed doors if you ask properly, lol

If I could get the 900D for the same price as my C70 I'd still pick my C70, don't get me wrong the 900D is a killer looking case but the quality is not their compared to other cases w/ in the Full Tower Category


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Yeah the 900d is overpriced. I went with a phanteks primo pro and have 0 regrets. Lol caselabs are too much but i dont have a right to talk about paying too much when i dropped 2300 on a redharbinger crossdesk

Can someone set me straight? Can you actually fit 2 thick 480mm rads on the bottom of the 900d? I was shopping for rad room at the time and newegg said it disnt have room for 480s down there


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I understand that there are alot of mixed feelings towards the 900D, I managed to land it for $200 on black friday and so far I must say, I am enjoying my current build in progress.


That's a great deal! I paid like $300 for mine about 15 months ago.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I think the CL cases do dirty thing behind closed doors if you ask properly, lol
> 
> If I could get the 900D for the same price as my C70 I'd still pick my C70, don't get me wrong the 900D is a killer looking case but the quality is not their compared to other cases w/ in the Full Tower Category


Mine purr every now and then









Still not finished but the first shots with the case closed. Cable management still not done:


----------



## emsj86

new lights same crappy phone pictures


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Mine purr every now and then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still not finished but the first shots with the case closed. Cable management still not done:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Mine purr every now and then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still not finished but the first shots with the case closed. Cable management still not done:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can you let me know how you painted the Rads?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can you let me know how you painted the Rads?


Can painted. First break a little with a fine/medium sand. Then mask the rad with painters tape (the fins area). Use screws on the fan holes to make feet for the rad. Spray it with a fine cover several times (given some time to dry in between). Between layers a very fine sand would help get rid of any imperfections and help the following layer to deposit well. Paint chamber pictures in my build log (using old box from orders).


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Mine purr every now and then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still not finished but the first shots with the case closed. Cable management still not done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Every time I see additional pictures of your build I get even more ideas for that crazy thought of mine ^_^ Absolutely sexy case, and I'm surprised not many have gone with the reverse ATX option.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Every time I see additional pictures of your build I get even more ideas for that crazy thought of mine ^_^ Absolutely sexy case, and I'm surprised not many have gone with the reverse ATX option.


Thanks mate. I agree it is an absolutely stunning case the SMA8 and so easy to work with. I was in doubt myself if the reverse atx would work the way I imagined and turns out to be the correct decision for me. I love how the build went and the path of the two loops. My original intention was to have several tube lanes going straigth up/down.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Can painted. First break a little with a fine/medium sand. Then mask the rad with painters tape (the fins area). Use screws on the fan holes to make feet for the rad. Spray it with a fine cover several times (given some time to dry in between). Between layers a very fine sand would help get rid of any imperfections and help the following layer to deposit well. Paint chamber pictures in my build log (using old box from orders).


Do you think gloss would go good?

The Cautious One


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Do you think gloss would go good?
> 
> The Cautious One


That is a matter of preference mate. Just be aware that painting in gloss is usually more difficult that matte since gloss usually shows more the imperfections that matte.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Can someone set me straight? Can you actually fit 2 thick 480mm rads on the bottom of the 900d? I was shopping for rad room at the time and newegg said it disnt have room for 480s down there


900D has room for a 480 and a 240 in the bottom. Depending on what you mean by "thick" you go might run into some clearance issues with the 480 and the PSU.

See here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1500317/would-an-80mm-thick-monsta-rad-in-push-pull-fit-in-a-900d/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That is a matter of preference mate. Just be aware that painting in gloss is usually more difficult that matte since gloss usually shows more the imperfections that matte.


Interesting!! I really hadn't thought of that part of the paint. I will see what My options should be when I get the case. What color goes good with gunmetal/white?

The Cautious One


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 900D has room for a 480 and a 240 in the bottom. Depending on what you mean by "thick" you go might run into some clearance issues with the 480 and the PSU.
> 
> See here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1500317/would-an-80mm-thick-monsta-rad-in-push-pull-fit-in-a-900d/


that's easy to sum up. Your motherboard will be the limiting factor for the top rad in the 900D, Example : I have R4BE, I could fit P/P UT60, but had something like >2mm of space between the fan @ the mosfet heat sink/ water block.

The bottom? You're going to run into the exact same scenario, yes, they will fit, with most PSUs,but you will need to leave off a fan or two, and the rad will basically be side to side with the power supply.





No point in even running 80MM fans unless you're going to push enough air through them to utilize all that exchange surface. Talking something like 1600RPM+ in p/p, if I remember correctly.

oh, all of the photos show EK 60MM radiators w/ standard 25mm fans.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Yeah i can fit a 480 probably on my primo pro top but it woud start getting iffy adding one to the bottom. There are some places a 280 would fit but its iffy to say the least. I like the way its setup its a bit wider than usual so they have the rad (atleast for the 120 variations) hang over the motherboard. For 220 i have no complaints. Thick i just mean like a hwlabs gtx, ek gtx, xspc rx, ut60, phobya . I couldnt even fit a monsta in the back of the rh desk with needing cable, psu, and pumps put there


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Interesting!! I really hadn't thought of that part of the paint. I will see what My options should be when I get the case. What color goes good with gunmetal/white?
> 
> The Cautious One


either black, gunmetal or white would look great but in the end depends on the whole package you are considering. You have to try to imagine how the whole thing would look together (liquid, fittings, case color, parts -like reservoir and so on, and the rads/fans). Good contrast between parts is usually a way of attaining balance. Just mine


----------



## feznz

I was going through some old photos I found a pic of my first water cooled PC back in 2007





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LiquidHaus

2804 Unread Posts









MIA too long.



upgraded.



parts on the way.


----------



## BoatOnGoat

Time to join my first OCN club!

CPU & GPUs
*i7 4770k* (4.5GHz @ 1.25v)
*(2x) EVGA GTX 780 Ti SC ACX* (+100 core, +50 mem, +75 mV)

PCPartPicker Link:
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/ztNNnQ

Enjoy!


----------



## Ceadderman

Say what you will about the ugliness of the HAF line but they're built tough enough to withstand being extreme modded. I've drilled out the front cages and my 932 doesn't have much if any play on the outside structure. It's so 2006 but still solid platform to mod.









~Ceadder


----------



## LittleBrant

Pretty darn good photography there bud, looks awesome. Looks just like my setup, just joking. Give me another few months.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Dat ssd tho


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question, to attach the Bitspower Mini-Valve to a T fitting & T fitting to pump top should I use the Bitspower mini adapter or Bitspower rotary adapter?

Thanks


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question, to attach the Bitspower Mini-Valve to a T fitting & T fitting to pump top should I use the Bitspower mini adapter or Bitspower rotary adapter?
> 
> Thanks


Yeah. You'll need two male-to-male fittings. It would be my suggestion to use rotaries if possible. Especially where the T-Block is attached to the pump top. That way you can rotate the valve in or out of the way easily.

And whatever you do. Don't go Alphastool rotaries. Please.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Yeah. You'll need two male-to-male fittings. It would be my suggestion to use rotaries if possible. Especially where the T-Block is attached to the pump top. That way you can rotate the valve in or out of the way easily.
> 
> And whatever you do. *Don't go Alphastool rotaries*. Please.


truth, their internal o-rings fail within just a few months.

The only alphacool rotary that I've found to not fail in a short period of time is their male/female, dual rotary 90. I've been using the same ones for almost 3 years now.

Their male / male rotaries are so damn loose. You can pretty much tell before you even install them if they're going to start leaking. The good news is, the Bitspower male/male rotaries are the exact same size, and PPC has finally started keeping them in stock.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Yeah. You'll need two male-to-male fittings. It would be my suggestion to use rotaries if possible. Especially where the T-Block is attached to the pump top. That way you can rotate the valve in or out of the way easily.
> 
> And whatever you do. Don't go Alphastool rotaries. Please.


Thanks, I was thinking rotaries but wasnt sure

Nah all Bitspower, gotta have all the black chrome match


----------



## VSG

Depends on if you wish to have the valve oriented in a particular direction.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

i'd use the rotary fitting, it allows you to orient the valve the way you want it, but if space is an issue, then you might want to look into the smaller one.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Depends on if you wish to have the valve oriented in a particular direction.


I was thinking more for my CPU line, using a right angle off the T fitting for it, dont want to have it upside down around the wrong way








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> i'd use the rotary fitting, it allows you to orient the valve the way you want it, but if space is an issue, then you might want to look into the smaller one.


Well space _shouldnt_ be an issue, gonna be mounting my pump on a stand bolted to the floor of my SM5, I was more concerned about the weight, its gonna be a pretty big heavy chunk of metal going into a plastic pump top


----------



## VSG

If you aren't sure about space being an issue, go with an XSPC male-male rotary instead. Smaller profile and does the job great.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you aren't sure about space being an issue, go with an XSPC male-male rotary instead. Smaller profile and does the job great.


I have got one of them but I was trying to weed out all miss matching fittings (XSPC black chrome is much darker then Bitspower)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I have got one of them but I was trying to weed out all miss matching fittings (XSPC black chrome is much darker then Bitspower)


was going to recommend the Enzotech until reading this. Their male/male rotary is tiny, but it's a weird brownish color.


----------



## Jakusonfire

As an alternative to rotary male to male fittings
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23155/ex-tub-2781/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Male_to_Male_Rotary_Extender_-_Carbon_Black_BP-CBRG.html?tl=g30c101s744#blank

I like to use Mini D-Plugs
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=300

It does the same job but is more free spinning and the dual O-ring fit is easy to take apart but a very secure seal (As long as the load is in compression of course and not tension). Just a slight fraction longer than a rotary.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> was going to recommend the Enzotech until reading this. Their male/male rotary is tiny, but it's a weird brownish color.


Hahah yeah brown wouldnt go with anything in my rig








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> As an alternative to rotary male to male fittings
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23155/ex-tub-2781/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Male_to_Male_Rotary_Extender_-_Carbon_Black_BP-CBRG.html?tl=g30c101s744#blank
> 
> I like to use Mini D-Plugs
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=300
> 
> It does the same job but is more free spinning and the dual O-ring fit is easy to take apart but a very secure seal (As long as the load is in compression of course and not tension). Just a slight fraction longer than a rotary.


Thanks I'll have a look, got a while to decide yet still waiting for PerformancePCs to get the Bitspower black chrome T fitting in stock


----------



## emsj86

new drain, ek back plate for gpu, 360 rad to intake. Filling up later. If you want to see more pictures or videos I will be posting them on my "blue blurry build log" later. What do you think


----------



## emsj86

sorry for phone pictures. Into ok some videos with my hand held kodak camera will upload later. http://www.overclock.net/t/1519439/blue-blurry-build-log-by-itzems-phanteks-enthoo-pro-case/60#post_23246243


----------



## skupples

D-plugs scare me. I've just seen one too many go pop on people.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> D-plugs scare me. I've just seen one too many go pop on people.


Bitspower? the few that ive used were extremely robust and tight


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> D-plugs scare me. I've just seen one too many go pop on people.












I have never seen a defective d plug...the only d plugs that I have known to be a issue are for Iwaki users.


----------



## Ceadderman

First I have heard about D plug failure. Only thing that I can think of is that one may have been incorrectly used. I.E. improperly aligned or attempting to connect to far a distance for the length of the fitting?









~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> First I have heard about D plug failure. Only thing that I can think of is that one may have been incorrectly used. I.E. improperly aligned or attempting to connect to far a distance for the length of the fitting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I had one go pop, when only using two pumps.

Who was it... Someone else in here had a similar experience, but he was running triple pumps.

Either way, I rather just use a male/male rotary, less O-rings, less prone to failure.


----------



## skupples

Well, got the XSPC rev 3 installed.

Only gripe so far is that 3 out of 32 threads were stripped. Won't take screws of any length. Luckily each one is on a different fan, so not s big deal.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Thanks for the help with the rotaries and all that, checked Performance PCs again and seen these T fittings with rotaries built in so I'm gonna grab one of them then a couple of male to male rotaries and I should be good









In other news my wallets gonna hate me...



Almost $250 Aus!!!!









Lets hope will all these air exhaust valves, new pump setup etc I can actually get this stupid thing working again


----------



## derickwm

And done.
































































Way more photos:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1220143/sponsored-aldri-forn-yd-finished-case-labs-sth10-evga-sr-2-4-way-sli/6070#post_23247308


----------



## skupples

And done, again...









Something I didn't notice on the XSPC R3.... No bleed cap on the end.... Going to be a major bleeding pain in the ass.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> And done, again...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something I didn't notice on the XSPC R3.... No bleed cap on the end.... Going to be a major bleeding pain in the ass.


Have no problems bleeding mine Skups. two ports facing up and two front. Loop connection using the frontal ports and the upper ports for helping filling/bleeding.

@derickwm Show me some MIPS love! Great mate


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> And done.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> 
> Way more photos:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1220143/sponsored-aldri-forn-yd-finished-case-labs-sth10-evga-sr-2-4-way-sli/6070#post_23247308


Okay, now it is time to actually show us the REAL computer which is powering that monitor Derick !


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> And done.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> 
> Way more photos:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1220143/sponsored-aldri-forn-yd-finished-case-labs-sth10-evga-sr-2-4-way-sli/6070#post_23247308
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, now it is time to actually show us the REAL computer which is powering that monitor Derick !
Click to expand...

JUST ACCEPT IT, IT'S ACTUALLY FINISHED


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> And done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great job on the neoprene, it's quite hard to bend tight like that within such short distances without kinking. Also HOLY FANS, how loud is that thing at full grunt?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> And done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Great job on the neoprene, it's quite hard to bend tight like that within such short distances without kinking. Also HOLY FANS, how loud is that thing at full grunt?
Click to expand...

Without PSU fan noise... whisper quiet. The FC10 (and some PWM headers on the mobo) turns them all down to 300-400 RPM. Sadly both PSUs are quite noisy


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Without PSU fan noise... whisper quiet. The FC10 (and some PWM headers on the mobo) turns them all down to 300-400 RPM. Sadly both PSUs are quite noisy


Change out the 580 Classifieds for some 980 Classifieds and then mod the fan in the Lepa 1600w? And drop the Silverstone ST1500?


----------



## derickwm

Someday... taking a break for now.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Great job on the neoprene, it's quite hard to bend tight like that within such short distances without kinking. Also HOLY FANS, how loud is that thing at full grunt?


EK neoprene / Norprene is so much easier to work with than Tygon's stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Have no problems bleeding mine Skups. two ports facing up and two front. Loop connection using the frontal ports and the upper ports for helping filling/bleeding.
> 
> @derickwm Show me some MIPS love! Great mate


Ports are facing south. Only way to get it done with the dual 60mm 480s in the top of the case.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Someday... taking a break for now.


Look at you giving false hope to people.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> And done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Way more photos:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1220143/sponsored-aldri-forn-yd-finished-case-labs-sth10-evga-sr-2-4-way-sli/6070#post_23247308


That looks fantastic! I'd love to get my hands on an SR-2 and build a duel Xeon system, especially if I end up needing to build a video editing rig at some point, though I wonder how Dual X5690s would fair against the newer 5960X and DDR4. I know a lot has changed in the last 4 years, especially in the way of architecture, IPC, and other features like SATA3 and PCI-E 3.0, but still would be interesting to know.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Someday... taking a break for now.
> 
> 
> 
> Look at you giving false hope to people.
Click to expand...

By break... I mean a month and a half 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> And done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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> Way more photos:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1220143/sponsored-aldri-forn-yd-finished-case-labs-sth10-evga-sr-2-4-way-sli/6070#post_23247308
> 
> 
> 
> That looks fantastic! I'd love to get my hands on an SR-2 and build a duel Xeon system, especially if I end up needing to build a video editing rig at some point, though I wonder how Dual X5690s would fair against the newer 5960X and DDR4. I know a lot has changed in the last 4 years, especially in the way of architecture, IPC, and other features like SATA3 and PCI-E 3.0, but still would be interesting to know.
Click to expand...

It's probably a toss up depending on the OC and what programs you need it for.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> And done.
> 
> Way more photos:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1220143/sponsored-aldri-forn-yd-finished-case-labs-sth10-evga-sr-2-4-way-sli/6070#post_23247308


Congrats on finally finishing.


----------



## skupples

oh, just noticed the D stepped down from his EK Rephood.







harassing the new person just won't be the same.


----------



## emsj86

http://www.overclock.net/t/1519439/blue-blurry-build-log-by-itzems-phanteks-enthoo-pro-case/60#post_23248180 first build log well semi build log. more updates soon with hardline tubing. If you have time give me some advise and pointers thanks in advance


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Change out the 580 Classifieds for some 980 Classifieds and then mod the fan in the Lepa 1600w? And drop the Silverstone ST1500?


Why would he keep the Lepa 1600 over the ST1500? The only reason I did not buy the Lepa 1600 was the numerous posts in difference focuses of failing Lepa 1600s with 4x GPU's, Google it and see for yourself, @shilka does not recommend it, so why would you recommend it?


----------



## derickwm

Honestly I wouldnt mind dropping both. Both these units and the EVGA 1600G2 have fans that are quite loud...is the AX1500i quiet?

Edit*
Maybe I just have a rough LEPA unit. [H] seems to think it's moderately quiet while mine seems to be at 100% all day long.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

The only really quiet psu i know of os my g2 1300s and the p1200 with the fan control and eco mode


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> The only really quiet psu i know of os my g2 1300s and the p1200 with the fan control and eco mode


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Honestly I wouldnt mind dropping both. Both these units and the EVGA 1600G2 have fans that are quite loud...is the AX1500i quiet?
> 
> Edit*
> Maybe I just have a rough LEPA unit. [H] seems to think it's moderately quiet while mine seems to be at 100% all day long.


AX1200i is really quiet. Not sure about the ax1500i even though the are siblings models.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Honestly I wouldnt mind dropping both. Both these units and the EVGA 1600G2 have fans that are quite loud...is the AX1500i quiet?


From the review I saw on youtube, from the OC3DTV channel, it was whisper quiet even under full load.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> AX1200i is really quiet. Not sure about the ax1500i even though the are siblings models.


The AX860i and AX1200i dont start their fans until they reach something like +40C (factory settings). When the fans start both are very quiet. The only annoying thing is that when you are at the limit when the fans should start, the PSU make a little "tick" noise every 10 seconds testing the start. This is considered normal by Corsair. This bothered me a lot, so I turned the fans a bit to hide the tick noise. This was with my old AX1200i and with my old PC with closed loop AIO radiators for CPU and 2xGPU. It was hot inside the medium tower in a hot summer. Were i live its not common to have AC. You have a desk fan or you open the windows. With my current open bench PC I only heard the tick noise once when outside was like 36C.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> The only really quiet psu i know of os my g2 1300s and the p1200 with the fan control and eco mode


Love my G2. Love that I got it for less than $200 as well.

Best thing about corsair PSUs is their fan option. Lots of them have switches that tell them not to turn on until X temp or Y load.


----------



## X-Nine

Seasonic has their quiet mode on their PSUs as well (and probably where Corsair got them from, being Seasonic is one of their OEMs.) Have it on My X850 from Seasonic and it's always been quiet for me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

My v850 psu is extremely quiet, of course Seasonic is the one who made it for CoolerMaster


----------



## Cyclops

Don't you love heatshrunk HSB/Audio headers? They so ugly in stock form.


----------



## skupples

I keep all my audio on the outside


----------



## DarthBaggins

I just use the audio from the Mobo rear outputs to my Pre-Amp/Amp setup

Now if I could watercool my amp and pre-amp that would be awesome, lol


----------



## morencyam

In all the cases I've ever owned, I don't think I've ever used the front audio ports. If I ever wanted to use headphones I'd use either the jack on my Logitech speaker volume control box thingy or the jack on my keyboard. But I rarely use headphones at my desk anyway so it's not that important to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Be Quiet,Enermax and Seasonic,all very quiet PSU's

Now,how about watercooling? This being a watercooling thread and all..........


----------



## wermad

Spoiler: Warning: wc psu!







Any suggestions to loosen up stuck rotary fittings (BP)? Don't wanna force them and break em since I'm getting close to finishing this build.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: wc psu!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions to loosen up stuck rotary fittings (BP)? Don't wanna force them and break em since I'm getting close to finishing this build.


hold the tube and make an inverse force to what you apply on the fitting. Another useful thing is a glove with good grasping surface. If the fitting is outside the case a mild warm water can help too. Third ask for a person stronger than you to try to loose the thing up


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any suggestions to loosen up stuck rotary fittings (BP)? Don't wanna force them and break em since I'm getting close to finishing this build.
> 
> 
> 
> hold the tube and make an inverse force to what you apply on the fitting. Another useful thing is a glove with good grasping surface. If the fitting is outside the case a mild warm water can help too. Third ask for a person stronger than you to try to loose the thing up
Click to expand...

All very good suggestions, but if all of the above fail that's when I break out the soft jawed pliers.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> All very good suggestions, but if all of the above fail that's when I break out the soft jawed pliers.


I've had to do that with I had a compression ring stuck. Only I didn't have any soft jawed on hand, so I just slid a pair of work gloves over them and it worked just as well.

In other news, my desk build, ShadowDesk, after more than a year, is finally up and running. Did an initial run of IBT and my 4670k is staying under 50C under load with stock clocks. Might try and work on an OC tonight. I also need to get some pictures to share here as well as my outdated build log


----------



## Jakewat

What's the maximum recommended time that you can run straight distilled water, no biocides or kill coils, for? I want to fill my temporary loop, but don't want to waste my coolants. I know you can reuse coolants but I would prefer to just run water for now. I'm looking at up to two weeks.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> What's the maximum recommended time that you can run straight distilled water, no biocides or kill coils, for? I want to fill my temporary loop, but don't want to waste my coolants. I know you can reuse coolants but I would prefer to just run water for now. I'm looking at up to two weeks.


I'm pretty sure @wermad has run straight distilled(no biocide, coil, dye, etc) for extended periods of time with no ill side effects. I'm sure he can give you a more concrete time frame he's gone though


----------



## bundymania

Liquid Extasy GTX980 Fullcover Block - 100 EUR - liquid-extasy.de


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Liquid Extasy GTX980 Fullcover Block - 100 EUR - liquid-extasy.de
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting channel configuration. Aesthetically pleasing. How is the performance?


----------



## IkarosMelan

you water cool everything on the motherboard and leave the 4gpus on air?...


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IkarosMelan*
> 
> you water cool everything on the motherboard and leave the 4gpus on air?...


quotes help


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Liquid Extasy GTX980 Fullcover Block - 100 EUR - liquid-extasy.de


layout looks old school, minus the micro-channels.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Interesting channel configuration. Aesthetically pleasing. How is the performance?


Blocks from this brand are placed in the midfield in several tests


----------



## skupples

Watercooling stupidity rule #1 out of 1

Do not use a metro vac to push water out of your system



My ancient EK 360 went POP.


----------



## morencyam

Ouch, that hurts skup. Sorry to hear that. Good to know though. I'm getting myself a datavac for Christmas and I'm sure at one point or another I would have tried that. I just stick to blowing til my face turns blue


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Ouch, that hurts skup. Sorry to hear that. Good to know though. I'm getting myself a datavac for Christmas and I'm sure at one point or another I would have tried that. I just stick to blowing til my face turns blue


I needed a reason to use my heat gun, worst part was that I had just closed steam so that I could launch Origin for some dragon age fun, decided to turn up the pump speed to flush out the last bit of air, then I started hearing this horrid gurgling sound, then water started spinning off of all the bottom fans.... I was worried that the fittings above my PSU went, luckily it was just a rad









I had just replaced all the O-rings on the top half of the build, so maybe it was the water God calling me out for being lazy by not swapping them in every fitting


----------



## VSG

Damn Skuppy.. Got pics of the rad? Would be interesting to see what exactly happened.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Damn Skuppy.. Got pics of the rad? Would be interesting to see what exactly happened.


Sure, I can take some snaps of it. The leak is down near the end somewhere. I wasn't 100% it was the rad, so I put a hose on it, put some ever so slight pressure on it, & water started squirting out. Looks like it might be where the fins go under the end of the shroud.

I R so dumb some times.









so much for playing DA:I tonight.









Things are just too wet to risk it, even after giving it the heat gun...

I also really don't feel like spending the $100 to get another 360 slim here. It being out will give me extra room for my PSUs, and I highly doubt it will be missed now that my front 480 is properly hooked up to fully circulate the entire unit.

worst part is needing to spend another $50 to get another 2x bottles of X1 clear to the house. Damned PPC charges nearly the same rate no matter the weight of your package. $11 for ground, for 2 bottles of coolant. Order half the store, $11 for ground. -.-


----------



## skupples

actually, i redact that... the worst part is that my office is going to smell like cheap whiskey for weeks to come, unless I shampoo the carpets. Damn you Mayhem's!!!


----------



## VSG

This is why you need a HTPC just to be sure - one that's watercooled and capable of gaming on it's own right anyway.

Edit: lol I didn't know X1 smelled so strong.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is why you need a HTPC just to be sure - one that's watercooled and capable of gaming on it's own right anyway.
> 
> Edit: lol I didn't know X1 smelled so strong.


yeah, it definitely smells like sweet, cheap whiskey, with some rubbing alcohol mixed in... Hell, that's probably all it is.


----------



## derickwm

Nice work


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Nice work










thanks! It's no DerickWM Fire, but almost as entertaining.

I wonder if some sand paper and JB weld would be enough to shore up the micro leak in my monster 480... I could just run both PSUs on one side & leave the back bottom panel off.... I have 2 days to wait for new coolant... Should give me enough time to attempt to patch and leak test








It's a blessing in disguise, though routing a 480 on the bottom to the front fatty 480 could prove near impossible, with the current routing. Not sure going through the trouble to reroute would be worth the gain. 3x 480s on 3 Titans and a 4930k.







yeah, definitely NEED the 4th


----------



## jpetrach

i had a friend use 2 part epoxy to sure up a nick in a rad. running about a year now no issues. he tried t use full length screws with low profile fans and sprung a drip. the hole was tiny.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> i had a friend use 2 part epoxy to sure up a nick in a rad. running about a year now no issues. he tried t use full length screws with low profile fans and sprung a drip. the hole was tiny.


I have used JB Weld on a radiator when a bird decided to fly into the grill of my old Chevy K10. I doubt skupples or your friend are pushing anywhere near the heat/pressure that a small block Chevy will.

Do it skupples!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpetrach*
> 
> i had a friend use 2 part epoxy to sure up a nick in a rad. running about a year now no issues. he tried t use full length screws with low profile fans and sprung a drip. the hole was tiny.


sweet, thanks for the info.

this is a tiny fissure around the outside of one of the threads, which I assume are soldered / welded in brass.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I have used JB Weld on a radiator when a bird decided to fly into the grill of my old Chevy K10. I doubt skupples or your friend are pushing anywhere near the heat/pressure that a small block Chevy will.
> 
> Do it skupples!






oh i'm doing it... RIGHT NOW..

no wait, I have to go to bed, RIGHT NOW, but i'll definitely do it TOMORROW, AFTER WORK










hell, if I can find the crack in the EK 360, i'll patch that up as well.


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks! It's no DerickWM Fire, but almost as entertaining.
> 
> I wonder if some sand paper and JB weld would be enough to shore up the micro leak in my monster 480... I could just run both PSUs on one side & leave the back bottom panel off.... I have 2 days to wait for new coolant... Should give me enough time to attempt to patch and leak test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a blessing in disguise, though routing a 480 on the bottom to the front fatty 480 could prove near impossible, with the current routing. Not sure going through the trouble to reroute would be worth the gain. 3x 480s on 3 Titans and a 4930k.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, definitely NEED the 4th


I used a small butane torch and solder to patch a hole in mine.

Either solder or JB weld, give it a patch, then place your thumb over one port and lightly suck on the other port, your thumb should stay stuck! You know you have a seal good enough for low pressure water.


----------



## skupples

dual MCP35X2 = not so low pressure, but I have faith in JB Weld! I've used it for amazing things! I used it to patch a small hole in a tail pipe, just before the muffler. I would prefer to torch it shut, but I only have a soldering iron, though that could work as well, if I used thin/light (w/e the term is) enough solder.

I was surprised by the fountain of water spurting out of the radiator, though i'm guessing the fans helped add to the effect.







Hopefully those are OK. AP-15s aren't cheap to get anymore. Not sure I could bring my self to pay the $20 a piece people want for them new and used, since I got them for like $12 a piece long before the NIDEC drama.


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> dual MCP35X2 = not so low pressure, but I have faith in JB Weld! I've used it for amazing things! I used it to patch a small hole in a tail pipe, just before the muffler. I would prefer to torch it shut, but I only have a soldering iron, though that could work as well, if I used thin/light (w/e the term is) enough solder.
> 
> I was surprised by the fountain of water spurting out of the radiator, though i'm guessing the fans helped add to the effect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully those are OK. AP-15s aren't cheap to get anymore. Not sure I could bring my self to pay the $20 a piece people want for them new and used, since I got them for like $12 a piece long before the NIDEC drama.


dual MCP35X2 = not so low pressure....
no offence but lol... anything in any of our standard watercooling systems are considered low pressure. if we can run swivel fittings with standard o-rings, it is low pressure.

bolting up a 36" flange to 250 ft/lbs per bolt x 24 bolts to handle 2000 psi over that large surface area of the circumference of the pipe/flange.... not-so-low pressure.


----------



## skupples

-_- of course. It was in relation to water-cooling only, not massive pumps in an industrial setting.

dual MCP35x = much higher pressure than say 2x D5 pumps. That's all I really meant.

WC rads aren't made for "true" high pressure scenarios, it's all relative.


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> -_- of course. It was in relation to water-cooling only, not massive pumps in an industrial setting.
> 
> dual MCP35x = much higher pressure than say 2x D5 pumps. That's all I really meant.
> 
> WC rads aren't made for "true" high pressure scenarios, it's all relative.


was just having a megaman moment.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> *was just having a megaman moment*.


this got me


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sure, I can take some snaps of it. The leak is down near the end somewhere. I wasn't 100% it was the rad, so I put a hose on it, put some ever so slight pressure on it, & water started squirting out. Looks like it might be where the fins go under the end of the shroud.
> 
> I R so dumb some times.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much for playing DA:I tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things are just too wet to risk it, even after giving it the heat gun...
> 
> I also really don't feel like spending the $100 to get another 360 slim here. It being out will give me extra room for my PSUs, and I highly doubt it will be missed now that my front 480 is properly hooked up to fully circulate the entire unit.
> 
> worst part is needing to spend another $50 to get another 2x bottles of X1 clear to the house. Damned PPC charges nearly the same rate no matter the weight of your package. $11 for ground, for 2 bottles of coolant. Order half the store, $11 for ground. -.-


The exact same thing happend to my ek-xtx240, started leaking from some fins at one end (the reason i went dual mo-ra3's. This was in a system pushed by 2x d5's, no more ek-rads for me ... need something that is reliable. ;-)


----------



## electro2u

Can someone explain something to me:
Quote:


> For galvanic corrosion to occur, three conditions must be present:
> 
> 1.Electrochemically dissimilar metals must be present
> 2.These metals must be in electrical contact, and
> 3.The metals must be exposed to an electrolyte


So if you have a copper block (which contacts the coolant) mounted on an aluminum panel (which DOESN'T contact the coolant)
will they react with each other?
BOTH metals have to be in contact with the electrolyte in order for galvanic corrosion to occur, right?

Maybe I'm wrong. If so, mind blown.

Edit. It simply cannot be. If it were, aluminum fins would be a huge problem. But most modern radiators use copper cores and channels, but aluminum fins.


----------



## soulreaper05

You are correct. Mounting a copper block to an aluminum plate will not corrode. Unless you plan on going scuba diving with it...

If there was an electrolyte between the plate and the block, then you would have a problem.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Can someone explain something to me:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For galvanic corrosion to occur, three conditions must be present:
> 
> 1.Electrochemically dissimilar metals must be present
> 2.These metals must be in electrical contact, and
> 3.The metals must be exposed to an electrolyte
> 
> 
> 
> So if you have a copper block (which contacts the coolant) mounted on an aluminum panel (which DOESN'T contact the coolant)
> will they react with each other?
> BOTH metals have to be in contact with the electrolyte in order for galvanic corrosion to occur, right?
> 
> Maybe I'm wrong. If so, mind blown.
> 
> Edit. It simply cannot be. If it were, aluminum fins would be a huge problem. But most modern radiators use copper cores and channels, but aluminum fins.
Click to expand...

Modern rads are all copper and brass,no alu...not even for the fins.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Modern rads are all copper and brass,no alu...not even for the fins.


There's plenty of modern aluminum rads out there...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Modern rads are all copper and brass,no alu...not even for the fins.


Nope.
I admit it sounds wonky, but *all* modern rads are NOT all copper including the fins.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Certainly 'most' modern rads marketed for watercooling custom loops are copper channels and fins.

Only a very few do have aluminum. Aquacomputer, Watercool, and Mora are all that come to mind that have a very few models, but all the different models made by Hardware Labs, Alphacool, EK, XSPC, Swiftech, Phobya, Magicool, Coolgate, (who else am I leaving out?) have copper fins and channels and I'd venture that their products populate somewhere around ~90% of all custom watercooled loops.

Now, if you are also including AIOs or Chinese knock-off products then maybe there's a few more with aluminum, or if you are also including the automotive industry or something, but we're getting deep into the weeds then.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys i have a quick question, my upcoming loop, i will be using clear soft tubing with mayhems rasp purple pastel for my upcoming loop, what lighting do you guys think will look better, Purple LED's or White LED's ?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Certainly 'most' modern rads marketed for watercooling custom loops are copper channels and fins.
> 
> Only a very few do have aluminum. Aquacomputer, Watercool, and Mora are all that come to mind that have a very few models, but all the different models made by Hardware Labs, Alphacool, EK, XSPC, Swiftech, Phobya, Magicool, Coolgate, (who else am I leaving out?) have copper fins and channels and I'd venture that their products populate somewhere around ~90% of all custom watercooled loops.
> 
> Now, if you are also including AIOs or Chinese knock-off products then maybe there's a few more with aluminum, or if you are also including the automotive industry or something, but we're getting deep into the weeds then.


You got me... I was definitely wrong about the distribution but the point I was really on about was people suggesting that mounting a Copper block on an Aluminum panel would cause galvanic corrosion (which is *wrong*). Had to fight tooth and nail with 2 people on a Singularity Computers Youtube comment over it. They wouldn't quit responding to my explanation with rubbish until I insinuated that mounting the radiators to the case itself (aluminum CaseLabs chassis) could cause a problem if galvanism worked the way they thought.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-LF5v1W7lA&list=UUqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA


----------



## skupples

and, aquacomputer makes that rad w/ copper fins as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> You got me... I was definitely wrong about the distribution but the point I was really on about was people suggesting that mounting a Copper block on an Aluminum panel would cause galvanic corrosion (which is *wrong*). Had to fight tooth and nail with 2 people on a Singularity Computers Youtube comment over it. They wouldn't quit responding to my explanation with rubbish until I insinuated that mounting the radiators to the case itself (aluminum CaseLabs chassis) could cause a problem if galvanism worked the way they thought.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-LF5v1W7lA&list=UUqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA


It's your own fault for using Youtube comment sections as a source of intelligent conversation.

They are at their worst for watercooling videos.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> and, aquacomputer makes that rad w/ copper fins as well.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> You got me... I was definitely wrong about the distribution but the point I was really on about was people suggesting that mounting a Copper block on an Aluminum panel would cause galvanic corrosion (which is *wrong*). Had to fight tooth and nail with 2 people on a Singularity Computers Youtube comment over it. They wouldn't quit responding to my explanation with rubbish until I insinuated that mounting the radiators to the case itself (aluminum CaseLabs chassis) could cause a problem if galvanism worked the way they thought.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-LF5v1W7lA&list=UUqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA
> 
> 
> 
> It's your own fault for using Youtube comment sections as a source of intelligent conversation.
> 
> They are at their worst for watercooling videos.
Click to expand...

That is actually hilarious that people think that, didn't they pass 8th Grade science?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's your own fault for using Youtube comment sections as a source of intelligent conversation.


Ahaha. Point taken! I've learned my lesson.

Still, this is pretty precious stuff, I think:
Quote:


> Jesus Christ oF COURSE the coolant is an electrolyte BUT BOTH METALS WONT BE TOUCHING IT


----------



## skupples

I always hear Mister Macky from South Park when I read "Jesus Christ"


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I always hear Mister Macky from South Park when I read "Jesus Christ"


I think you mean Mr. Slave, lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Modern rads are all copper and brass,no alu...not even for the fins.
> 
> 
> 
> Nope.
> I admit it sounds wonky, but *all* modern rads are NOT all copper including the fins.
Click to expand...

I didnt say all rads,I said modern rads are all copper and brass.

As for the AMS rad,I have that rad myself so im well aware that a couple of rad _models_ have alu fins. Mine are Alu for example.....



The placement of the all is significant.........


----------



## pc-illiterate

Swiftech rads have copper fins but brass tubes.


----------



## DarthBaggins

And my Swiftech Rads work great (240 & 120) also were extremely clean on their preliminary flush prior to using.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys i have a quick question, my upcoming loop, i will be using clear soft tubing with mayhems rasp purple pastel for my upcoming loop, what lighting do you guys think will look better, Purple LED's or White LED's ?


I would go white because the purple will just overwhelm it and the pastel won't loom purple but more of a uv or at least it didn't look good when I did blue leds with blue pastel.


----------



## Agenesis

Anyone know if the Dimastech Easy v3 fits Eatx boards or do I have to get my drill ready?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Anyone know if the Dimastech Easy v3 fits Eatx boards or do I have to get my drill ready?


I think that you will have to drill it since specs says this:
Quote:


> Motherboard Compatibility ATX, Full ATX, NanoATX, MicroATX, XL-ATX, Mini ATX, MiniITX


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> hold the tube and make an inverse force to what you apply on the fitting. Another useful thing is a glove with good grasping surface. If the fitting is outside the case a mild warm water can help too. Third ask for a person stronger than you to try to loose the thing up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> All very good suggestions, but if all of the above fail that's when I break out the soft jawed pliers.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've had to do that with I had a compression ring stuck. Only I didn't have any soft jawed on hand, so I just slid a pair of work gloves over them and it worked just as well.
> 
> In other news, my desk build, ShadowDesk, after more than a year, is finally up and running. Did an initial run of IBT and my 4670k is staying under 50C under load with stock clocks. Might try and work on an OC tonight. I also need to get some pictures to share here as well as my outdated build log
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, +1. I was able to tease some of the fittings but it worked out in the end as some were already bent to the right angle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> What's the maximum recommended time that you can run straight distilled water, no biocides or kill coils, for? I want to fill my temporary loop, but don't want to waste my coolants. I know you can reuse coolants but I would prefer to just run water for now. I'm looking at up to two weeks.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm pretty sure @wermad has run straight distilled(no biocide, coil, dye, etc) for extended periods of time with no ill side effects. I'm sure he can give you a more concrete time frame he's gone though
Click to expand...

I've ran for a few months w/ just plain ol' distilled. Just keep an eye on it and watch out for growth (never had it myself btw).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IkarosMelan*
> 
> you water cool everything on the motherboard and leave the 4gpus on air?...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Watercooling stupidity rule #1 out of 1
> 
> Do not use a metro vac to push water out of your system
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My ancient EK 360 went POP.


That sucks







. I just blow, like many others (







).

Long weekend but I got some stuff done. I'm still under the weather so I did as much as I could. I'm missing my gpu blocks so no water yet. Also, getting random shutdowns more frequently, thinking something is up w/ the bios or mb.

Little teaser of what I'm doing so far:



(old 800D inspiration, wink, wink







).


----------



## TTheuns

I could use some help choosing fans. I am going to use 6 fans in my system, all on rads. (EK CoolStream PE) three in the front of the case will be in push, the other 3 are pull.
I can not go for:
-Gentle Typhoons, sold out. (Unless i PWM mod the high speed versions.)
-Cougar Vortex PWM, they sell for $40 a piece in The Netherlands.
-NoiseBlocker eLoop, they make a lot of noise when used in pull, unless used with a fan shroud, which doesn't fit in my case.

Corsair SP's are already on the considered list.

Any other suggestions are more than welcome.


----------



## VSG

Maybe the upcoming EK Vardar fans? I don't have experience with a lot of different fans myself but others can definitely recommend things.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> hold the tube and make an inverse force to what you apply on the fitting. Another useful thing is a glove with good grasping surface. If the fitting is outside the case a mild warm water can help too. Third ask for a person stronger than you to try to loose the thing up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> All very good suggestions, but if all of the above fail that's when I break out the soft jawed pliers.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've had to do that with I had a compression ring stuck. Only I didn't have any soft jawed on hand, so I just slid a pair of work gloves over them and it worked just as well.
> 
> In other news, my desk build, ShadowDesk, after more than a year, is finally up and running. Did an initial run of IBT and my 4670k is staying under 50C under load with stock clocks. Might try and work on an OC tonight. I also need to get some pictures to share here as well as my outdated build log
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks guys, +1. I was able to tease some of the fittings but it worked out in the end as some were already bent to the right angle.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> What's the maximum recommended time that you can run straight distilled water, no biocides or kill coils, for? I want to fill my temporary loop, but don't want to waste my coolants. I know you can reuse coolants but I would prefer to just run water for now. I'm looking at up to two weeks.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm pretty sure @wermad has run straight distilled(no biocide, coil, dye, etc) for extended periods of time with no ill side effects. I'm sure he can give you a more concrete time frame he's gone though
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've ran for a few months w/ just plain ol' distilled. Just keep an eye on it and watch out for growth (never had it myself btw).
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IkarosMelan*
> 
> you water cool everything on the motherboard and leave the 4gpus on air?...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Watercooling stupidity rule #1 out of 1
> 
> Do not use a metro vac to push water out of your system
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My ancient EK 360 went POP.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I just blow, like many others (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Long weekend but I got some stuff done. I'm still under the weather so I did as much as I could. I'm missing my gpu blocks so no water yet. Also, getting random shutdowns more frequently, thinking something is up w/ the bios or mb.
> 
> Little teaser of what I'm doing so far:
> 
> 
> 
> (old 800D inspiration, wink, wink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
Click to expand...

Wermad is _modding_ stuff?


----------



## derickwm

EK-Vardar


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Maybe the upcoming EK Vardar fans? I don't have experience with a lot of different fans myself but others can definitely recommend things.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> EK-Vardar


Completely forgot about those...
I suggest more advertising


----------



## derickwm

We're not really allowed to advertise on the forums 

And they aren't released yet either so it's pretty limited what we can do.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I reeeeally want to see the 140mm version
I think id rather buy 140fans than 120fans and a radiator


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're not really allowed to advertise on the forums
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they aren't released yet either so it's pretty limited what we can do.


I'll read some reviews once they are out and see if they are what I am looking for, would be fun to get these, because that would mean my entire watercooling setup would be EK.


----------



## Ceadderman

A little late to the stuck compression discussion, but adding this anyway for future consideration where lack of fundage is an issue.

Try flat biege rubber band. Loop it around the fitting and you will get the offender loose in no time at all. That's how I have always done it.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We're not really allowed to advertise on the forums
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they aren't released yet either so it's pretty limited what we can do.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll read some reviews once they are out and see if they are what I am looking for, would be fun to get these, because that would mean my entire watercooling setup would be EK.
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15/50#post_23228529


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wermad is _modding_ stuff?


Very light modding tbh







. I still have the ability to go back to stock.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I didnt say all rads,I said modern rads are all copper and brass.
> 
> As for the AMS rad,I have that rad myself so im well aware that a couple of rad _models_ have alu fins. Mine are Alu for example.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The placement of the all is significant.........


Are AMS rads not modern?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15/50#post_23228529


something looks oddly familiar about those fans, lol









when are those going to hit retailers?

After today I want to move back to MA


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1526843/does-ek-just-resurrect-that-good-old-gt-ap-15/50#post_23228529
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> something looks oddly familiar about those fans, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when are those going to hit retailers?
> 
> After today I want to move back to MA
Click to expand...

Should be January.

I don't think you do, it has rained really hard all day today. I WANT SNOW


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Should be January.
> 
> I don't think you do, it has rained really hard all day today. I WANT SNOW


it's still raining, glad I wasn't working today (Revere,Ma)


----------



## derickwm

I left the house for a half hour today and refused to leave again.


----------



## wermad

You in europe?


----------



## derickwm

Boston. But I leave to Europe on Monday


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah my dad told me they were getting hammered by a Nor'easter, I was living out on Nantucket when I lived up there.


----------



## wermad

Damn this mild 80°F weather down here in SD


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol, my loop is digging the cooler weather here in GA. Now just to add my gpu's to the loop


----------



## wermad

External rad in the snow ftw







.


----------



## skupples

Well, I busted out the soldering iron with the thinest solder I had. Put down a line of solder all around the outside of the threading, let that cool then put a layer of JB weld over that for good measure.

Pressure tested, and good to go, so now I have 4x fatty 480s in push pull... It's ugly, mostly because I'm extremely low on fittings, but it will work









Jeesh, uploading from mobile is so broken in OCN. Uploaded instantly to imgur.


----------



## VSG

Pics man! I would love to see where the break happened and how you applied JB Weld in case I get in a similar scenario


----------



## DarthBaggins

and if Jb doesn't work always try Duc Tape (Alabama Chrome) lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pics man! I would love to see where the break happened and how you applied JB Weld in case I get in a similar scenario


hmm... she's already in, but i'll see if I can snap a side photo. Remember, this is a patch job on the UT60 that had a micro-leak around the welded in threads, on the bottom of the tank... I haven't been able to isolate the leak on the EK360... I'm thinking the bust is inside one of the tubes, so inside the radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> and if Jb doesn't work always try Duc Tape (Alabama Chrome) lol












the JB Weld was probably over-kill w/ the solder, but I figured what the hell.


----------



## VSG

Ah ok, I thought you got the EK rad patched up. I'd check on the thin tubes and see if that's where they leaked from. Trouble is- a pinpoint leak may not show itself unless under a decent flow.


----------



## wermad

I tried fixing a punctured RX480 (v2) and it was a total fail


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah ok, I thought you got the EK rad patched up. I'd check on the thin tubes and see if that's where they leaked from. Trouble is- a pinpoint leak may not show itself unless under a decent flow.


I was thinking about using some UV to try to expose it, but based on it gushing out from inside the rad, it's likely a lost cause. $3 worth of scrap.









JB weld will further liquefy if you hit it with heat right after applying, so I let it slide.

Sanded down the entire area to expose the bare copper.


----------



## skupples

Delete inc.


----------



## vicyo

No money, space and time to build fully custom loop to my liking. But since abandoning the hobby is hard, some compromises were done









Running a G3258 with phobya liquid metal under the ihs @ 4.3Ghz 1.255 vcore stays at 55 C with IBT, and it's almost passive cooling







(26 C room temperature)


The cheapo H55 radiator have less than half the weight of the ST30


----------



## skupples

Gotta love rigged up loops


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Gotta love rigged up loops


Yup. If I hadn't gotten my CPU block for a really good price and had to wc my CIVFormula, I woulda likely done something like that too.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> snip


just wondering, how did you fill it with no reservoir ?


----------



## wermad

Aluminum rad to copper rad. And I believe the pump still has aluminum


----------



## ginger_nuts

Is there any means of estimating flow ?


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Can someone explain something to me:
> So if you have a copper block (which contacts the coolant) mounted on an aluminum panel (which DOESN'T contact the coolant)
> will they react with each other?
> BOTH metals have to be in contact with the electrolyte in order for galvanic corrosion to occur, right?
> 
> Maybe I'm wrong. If so, mind blown.
> 
> Edit. It simply cannot be. If it were, aluminum fins would be a huge problem. But most modern radiators use copper cores and channels, but aluminum fins.


The fins are not in contact with the fluid, so no galvanic corrosion. The main problem is when the fluid is in contact with both Aluminium and Copper within the loop. No wet aluminum, no cathode/anode getting contact through a fluid, so no galvanic corrosion.
The need for a fluid is the reason why you need a bath to do chrome plating. (not going into the electric current and stuff).

So yeah, you can have a Copper/Alu core, as long as the copper is in the channels and the aluminium in the fins ONLY.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> (EK CoolStream PE)
> ...
> -NoiseBlocker eLoop, they make a lot of noise when used in pull, unless used with a fan shroud, which doesn't fit in my case.


The EKWB Coolstream PE series, like the XSPC AX series, has enough of a built-in shroud that the infamous pull noise of eLoops is not an issue.

I have both of these rads and had a system with first B12-P and then later with B12-PS in push pull. I promised to make a video of the (lack of) noise but never got around to it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The distance of the fins from the fans on the PE rads and most other rads like Alphacool etc is very much the same so I don't know what you mean by a built in shroud as such. The droning effect in pull is very much the same on my PE and Alphacool rads with the PS versions. I wouldn't want to hear the faster the version.

If they didn't I probably wouldn't be using the SP 120's on the pull side of my rads, even though they do match everything a bit better.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

To effectively seal a punctured rad,use a hypodermic filled with epoxy resin,inject into the hole and withdraw whilst still injecting slowly,this will pretty much guarantee watertightness. Just slapping it over the damage externally will not guarantee a long lasting seal.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The droning effect in pull is very much the same on my PE and Alphacool rads with the PS versions.


Ah that's right, I think we had this discussion before, but I never made the video and since then moved into smaller and smaller cases. Honestly, I had the rig running as a folding machine at load for months in the living room and absolutely no droning. I believe that you experienced something different than me but I can't explain why.

One thing that occurs to me is that I had the B12-Ps pushing and the B12-PSes pulling. I set my Aquaero to rpm control instead of voltage, so the fans were not running at the same speed exactly, but only approximately.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> To effectively seal a punctured rad,use a hypodermic filled with epoxy resin,inject into the hole and withdraw whilst still injecting slowly,this will pretty much guarantee watertightness. Just slapping it over the damage externally will not guarantee a long lasting seal.


I wish the crack was big enough to do that... I'll tr that if I can expose the crack in this EK360. I WAS planning to use it to silence my test environment box, but nooo!


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> just wondering, how did you fill it with no reservoir ?


I had everything but the hose that feed the pump connected (the end was submerged on a glass bowl with coolant). And when finished bleeding the loop, i approached the radiator fitting that was disconnected and placed above the tubing sucking the coolant and quickly connected the tubing in place. I could have submerged the radiator, but it would probably contaminate the coolant with something

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Aluminum rad to copper rad. And I believe the pump still has aluminum


Mine isn't the same generation as the zalman AIO, so there is no jet plate i believe. Even so i think asetek would use stainless steel to make the the jet plate just like everybody else, as aluminium would be very risky in direct contact with Cu.

Just to be safe I'm using hydrX, since it could stop the Apogee GTX from self-destructing, it should also work here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is there any means of estimating flow ?


there is, next time I add the second block for the gpu I'll try that. Right now i think the flow increased from what I saw while running distilled for testing (could be my wishful thinking)


----------



## emsj86

Where can I find arylic mid plate or arylic sheets in general. I want a blue berry pastel color arylic for a mod


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Mine isn't the same generation as the zalman AIO, so there is no jet plate i believe. Even so i think asetek would use stainless steel to make the the jet plate just like everybody else, as aluminium would be very risky in direct contact with Cu.
> 
> Just to be safe I'm using hydrX, since it could stop the Apogee GTX from self-destructing, it should also work here
> there is, next time I add the second block for the gpu I'll try that. Right now i think the flow increased from what I saw while running distilled for testing (could be my wishful thinking)


Cool beans








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Where can I find arylic mid plate or arylic sheets in general. I want a blue berry pastel color arylic for a mod


Check if you have a local plastics company. Im very fortunate to have one 10 minutes away. Other then that, ebay is a good place to get acrylic. I bought two 12"x24" sheets for $5







. Enough for.my 900D midplate and for some structural/aesthetic purposes.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cool beans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check if you have a local plastics company. Im very fortunate to have one 10 minutes away. Other then that, ebay is a good place to get acrylic. *I bought two 12"x24" sheets for $5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .* Enough for.my 900D midplate and for some structural/aesthetic purposes.












WHERE WAS I!!!!


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Where can I find arylic mid plate or arylic sheets in general. I want a blue berry pastel color arylic for a mod


Most hardware/home improvement stores should sell acrylic sheets, and some may cut them in-store to the desired size.
You can also get sheets online from PC modding shops as well as Amazon.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHERE WAS I!!!!


Eplastics.com, their company is just ten minutes away from my home. They have a few scraps bin and sell them by the lb. Im going to stop today as I nee one more piece.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Eplastics.com, their company is just ten minutes away from my home. They have a few scraps bin and sell them by the lb. Im going to stop today as I nee one more piece.


EXCELLENT! BRILLIANT!! (insert Evil Laugh)


----------



## snow cakes

when making a watercooled PC, should I make more than one loop? is it necessary? For instance I'm going to water cool the CPU, GPU, Ram, and Chipset... so should I make 2 loops? and If i make 2 loops does that mean I need two of everything (res, pump, rad, tubing, ect)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snow cakes*
> 
> when making a watercooled PC, should I make more than one loop? is it necessary? For instance I'm going to water cool the CPU, GPU, Ram, and Chipset... so should I make 2 loops? and If i make 2 loops does that mean I need two of everything (res, pump, rad, tubing, ect)


You would be best served with a single loop.

Dual looping is for multi CPU with multi GPU setups,you would need 2 of everything to make this work and you wouldnt gain anything.


----------



## snow cakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You would be best served with a single loop.
> 
> Dual looping is for multi CPU with multi GPU setups,you would need 2 of everything to make this work and you wouldnt gain anything.


Ok great thanks


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like I'll be testing out my paint skills on my newly acquired XSPC 360 rad


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like I'll be testing out my paint skills on my newly acquired XSPC 360 rad


Please update us on this. I am about to do the same and don't know whether to sand them or just over the black

THe Cautious ONe


----------



## Ceadderman

I would just scuff the painted surface with some scotchbrite pads dust off the surface with canned air and prep the fins to keep overspray to a minimum and scuff it once more, blow it off and paint it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Mine isn't the same generation as the zalman AIO, so there is no jet plate i believe. Even so i think asetek would use stainless steel to make the the jet plate just like everybody else, as aluminium would be very risky in direct contact with Cu.
> 
> Just to be safe I'm using hydrX, since it could stop the Apogee GTX from self-destructing, it should also work here
> there is, next time I add the second block for the gpu I'll try that. Right now i think the flow increased from what I saw while running distilled for testing (could be my wishful thinking)
> 
> 
> 
> Cool beans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Where can I find arylic mid plate or arylic sheets in general. I want a blue berry pastel color arylic for a mod
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Check if you have a local plastics company. Im very fortunate to have one 10 minutes away. Other then that, ebay is a good place to get acrylic. I bought two 12"x24" sheets for $5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Enough for.my 900D midplate and for some structural/aesthetic purposes.
Click to expand...

What thickness and which seller should I look for? I'm looking for a grey for my front.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I plan on leaving the black and using a paint called Spider Black (Silver tone by Montana Gold) I used it to get the effect I have on my C70 tower (but in black).

Just want to test it out and see what it'll look like, but if I were to change the full rad color, yes scuff, tack cloth, then paint


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Can I be in the club for my Swiftech H220X hardline acrylic tube conversion? I havent seen anyone else convert this unit to acrylic yet

Im not done yet. I still have to hide wires. Right now it still looks terrible. But I did just get some Maxfinder triple braids in









http://www.overclock.net/t/1526026/update-h220x-acrylic-conversion-full-cover-block


----------



## Comp4k

One day I will liquid cool a GPU, but I'm very happy with my current setup.

Swiftech H240-X


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Can I be in the club for my Swiftech H220X hardline acrylic tube conversion


I don't see why not, its not like using res/pump/rad combo's is against the rules


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Can I be in the club for my Swiftech H220X hardline acrylic tube conversion? I havent seen anyone else convert this unit to acrylic yet
> 
> Im not done yet. I still have to hide wires. Right now it still looks terrible. But I did just get some Maxfinder triple braids in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1526026/update-h220x-acrylic-conversion-full-cover-block


Good use of a kit and making it your own


----------



## skupples

Need to vent some frustration?! Just bleed an STH10 with an inverted rad in the front with no bleed port!


----------



## wermad

Yeah, bleeding five rads was a pita in my old STH10. I hope this three massive Monsta's are much easier







.

Thinking of moving my res. I love the fat look of the Aquacomputer res but its clashing w/ the TriX coolers (temporary air). Need to relocate


----------



## skupples

well, the one good thing about monsta is that end cap. Makes it very easy to purge air w/o having to deal with the "shake some out, suck some in" nonsense.


----------



## wermad

Never tried them but since they're mounted w/ this ports facing down, it won't help. I end up rocking the rig to purge most of it and leave it as is for the rest to make its way out. Gpu block should be in by friday, so I'll be able to fire up the rig. For now, some minor tweaks here and there are needed.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Never tried them but since they're mounted w/ this ports facing down, it won't help. I end up rocking the rig to purge most of it and leave it as is for the rest to make its way out. Gpu block should be in by friday, so I'll be able to fire up the rig. For now, some minor tweaks here and there are needed.


I should hopefully have the beast back up n running by tomorrow evening. I decided to go the old fashioned route. Fill, Bleed, Leak test BEFORE fully re-wiring... Mostly due to the leaky port, and derp induced busted radiator. Figured I should let the pumps run @ max for 24 hours to make sure nothing else wants to fail on me, before sticking both PSUs back in. I'm also heavily debating removing the second PSU & reducing my obscene GPU OCs, simply so I can stick a much newer and much more stable PSU into my test/media server.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I wish the crack was big enough to do that... I'll tr that if I can expose the crack in this EK360. I WAS planning to use it to silence my test environment box, but nooo!


The only way would be using a gas torch to generate enough heat
generally you heat up the radiator till it's hot enough to melt the solder in the crack without the gas torch
then painting so on and so on could be a lot easier in the long run for a new radiator


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flame-Gun-Jet-Torch-Butane-Gas-Blow-Burner-Welding-Solder-Iron-Soldering-Lighter-/371113481337


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Question, will the Bitspower Premium Male G1/4" Matt Black Aqua-Pipe I Fitting fit into a D5 Top Upgrade Kit 80?

If not will an EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 - 40mm fit into a Bitspower Z-CAP II With G1/4" x3?

Kinda need an answer quick

Thanks


----------



## skupples

Pretty sure the Aqua pipe is the down pipe for inside a reservoir, not sure about the other bit.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Question, will the Bitspower Premium Male G1/4" Matt Black Aqua-Pipe I Fitting fit into a D5 Top Upgrade Kit 80?
> 
> If not will an EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 - 40mm fit into a Bitspower Z-CAP II With G1/4" x3?
> 
> Kinda need an answer quick
> 
> Thanks


The aquapipe will fit into that upgrade kit just fine.

It does, if you have a hi-flo system, create quite a bit of turbulence against the bottom, and tends to aerate the coolant in a short res like that.

If it manifests as a problem, cutting the pipe shorter and keeping the res nearly full should help.

You also might want to look at this low restriction fitting option for inside the res:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-mbwp-c67-g1-4-matte-black-in-side-90-degree-diversion-fitting.html
D.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The aquapipe will fit into that upgrade kit just fine.
> 
> D.


Your sure? I looked but couldnt find anything saying its exact length







unless I'm going more blind









Edit, Thanks, ended up ordering, $51 extra due to currency conversion
















Lets hope I can get my PC working now


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Opinions on Enermax variable Speed Fans?

15.99 Each.. Ouch


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Opinions on Enermax variable Speed Fans?
> 
> 15.99 Each.. Ouch


I used them on my chiller build on the AX360 rad, and I was happy enough with them that I ordered 24 more for the next chiller build.

I use Aquaeros for control, so I need PWM that's not ~ $30 per fan. I also like that they have white LEDs

They have a tiny slide switch at the back of the hub you can set the max rpm with,1200, 1500, or 1800 . . and another switch on a short pigtail to turn the LEDs on or off.

Below 1500 they are very quiet, from 1500 to 1800, they sound about like what you could expect for a quality fan.

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

15.99 for a pwm fan is not bad at all especially compared to say the Delta's I have which run 25.99-30.99/fan


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I used them on my chiller build on the AX360 rad, and I was happy enough with them that I ordered 24 more for the next chiller build.
> 
> I use Aquaeros for control, so I need PWM that's not ~ $30 per fan. I also like that they have white LEDs
> 
> They have a tiny slide switch at the back of the hub you can set the max rpm with,1200, 1500, or 1800 . . and another switch on a short pigtail to turn the LEDs on or off.
> 
> Below 1500 they are very quiet, from 1500 to 1800, they sound about like what you could expect for a quality fan.
> 
> Darlene


Are they visually appealing?

The Cautious One


----------



## DarthBaggins

They're not a bad looking fan, looks ready to be painted


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> They're not a bad looking fan, looks ready to be painted


Painted!! I need um white!

The Cautious One

Lol


----------



## wermad

Twisters are a nice alternative but they come in smoked plastic. They look very nice in terms of static pressure and are pwm.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Twisters are a nice alternative but they come in smoked plastic. They look very nice in terms of static pressure and are pwm.


I purchased 4 x Twisterpressure (black) for my brother's Parvum Build but one of them went out on the top rack (probably human error, had the fan cord inbetween the fan and rad when I tightened it down) so I ended up purchasing Bitfenix Spectre Pro led Smoked fans for the top rack on the build. I liked the Bitfenix but unsure if I could rock the white they provide in Spectre Pro


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> They're not a bad looking fan, looks ready to be painted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Painted!! I need um white!
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> Lol
Click to expand...

They are white, that was one of my criteria as well, actually a nice glossy white.

I'm not real excited about the led shining thru the ENERMAX logo on the side of the frame, but it's not a deal breaker either.





Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They are white, that was one of my criteria as well, actually a nice glossy white.
> 
> I'm not real excited about the led shining thru the ENERMAX logo on the side of the frame, but it's not a deal breaker either.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


They Look Almost Blue? Is this true?

The Cautious One

EDIT: Speaking in reference to the LED


----------



## tatmMRKIV

/still uses black fans without LEDs for the most part.

I remember when I was 10 and was all nutzo about flashhy lights and colored spinny fans

http://prices.itreviews.com/productinfo/23409/ac-ryan-blackfire4-uv-led-fan-120mm-blueorange#tabrices
looked like that


----------



## DarthBaggins

All my fans in [email protected] are non LED/ Black and in OutSourced they are Corsair w/ Blue LED's. I prefer to run lighting separate from my fans but have kinda looked back into finding fans w/ lights so i can remove the other lights and their components to clean up the case.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They are white, that was one of my criteria as well, actually a nice glossy white.
> 
> I'm not real excited about the led shining thru the ENERMAX logo on the side of the frame, but it's not a deal breaker either.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> They Look Almost Blue? Is this true?
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> EDIT: Speaking in reference to the LED
Click to expand...

The case has built in RGB lighting, but the white has a slightly blue/purple hue to it . . . I think that's what's giving it the bluish tinge.

The first 8 that were in stock at frozen came in this morning, (next 16 drop shipped from California, but aren't here yet) so I'll power one up with no additional lighting and check for you.

Here's a pic from when I first tested them to see how they'd look on the white AX360:



They look white to me.

Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> /still uses black fans without LEDs for the most part.
> 
> I remember when I was 10 and was all nutzo about flashhy lights and colored spinny fans
> 
> http://prices.itreviews.com/productinfo/23409/ac-ryan-blackfire4-uv-led-fan-120mm-blueorange#tabrices
> looked like that


You Flatter Me! It would not be about the flashy lights but about being able to see the 6000$ I just spent on a computer. Kinda want to peep on it every now and then without squinting you know?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The case has built in RGB lighting, but the white has a slightly blue/purple hue to it . . . I think that's what's giving it the bluish tinge.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The first 8 that were in stock at frozen came in this morning, (next 16 drop shipped from California, but aren't here yet) so I'll power one up with no additional lighting and check for you.
> 
> Here's a pic from when I first tested them to see how they'd look on the white AX360:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They look white to me.
> 
> Darlene


Excellent! That does look great. I am almost sold! + Rep for the visual.

The Cautious One


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> /still uses black fans without LEDs for the most part.
> 
> I remember when I was 10 and was all nutzo about flashhy lights and colored spinny fans
> 
> http://prices.itreviews.com/productinfo/23409/ac-ryan-blackfire4-uv-led-fan-120mm-blueorange#tabrices
> looked like that


The fewer lights the better IMO. I don't even like motherboard or power/hdd activity LEDs.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Good use of a kit and making it your own


Thanks!! I desperately wanted to do something a little different that I hadnt seen done before. Plus, that kit does a great job cooling a cpu so I thought it would be nice to add the full cover. Everyone else only does cpu+gpu. I will be adding a gpu soon but at that point we're getting beyond just taking a single H220X kit and converting tubing and adding a block. I will have to add another small radiator and small res (which I already have).

Of course, it took me so long to get it all together that Swiftech released that 140mm unit that is the rad, res, pump combo. It looks like the h220x just smaller. Plus, it already has the g1/4 fittings throughout whereas the h220x needs an adapter for one port (which is terrible to install). So from here on out others will be able to do something very similar with much less of a headache than it gave me


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The fewer lights the better IMO. I don't even like motherboard or power/hdd activity LEDs.


Hmm.







Im trying to imagine one without lights... And I really cannot.

The Cautious One


----------



## tatmMRKIV

you can do better with a few well placed lights than 100+ haphazardly placed ones.

I will be opting for aimed LEDs and cold cathodes for my xxxx$ build
I just dont like how LEDs on fans turn out, their lights are too bright and directional. if you have it on ta desktop theres a good chance of getting one shining in your face

like I have 2 right now cuz it came on my phanteks primo pro and they shine in my eyes when they on at night.. which sucks cuz thats the best time to put them on.

I like how on my z97 OC formula board all the LEDs shut off when its running

literally the only LEDs are from the pcie connection on my GPUs the one res led I installed those obnoxious fan LEDs and the cool led bar the case has

i hit the switch and only leds at all are the 4 on the GPUs

I find it elegant

I am gonna get rid of the front fan leds though probably or add more fore the inside so the window looks a little bluer cuz the front is sort of bright with the fans but if I did away witht hem it wouldnt be necessary. LOL

it needs leds inside probably though the window is pretty tinted

It depends on where you want your pc though like bedroom or entertainment area. or dim room bright LEDs suck for immersion and sleeping


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I understand that point of view for sure. I really just dont have a preference as far as how many Led's are in there though. I like things that would light up the room. Not worried if it is so bright.. then again I hvaen't owned 100 computer builds that were all different.

THe Cautious ONe


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hmm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im trying to imagine one without lights... And I really cannot.
> 
> The Cautious One


Look at any system I have built if you have problems imagining. I think I have used lighting once in the past 12 years.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I really want to do something with LEDs and dinoflagelletes

my biggest thing is with leds i like light thats solid and more accent rather than the random blips of superbright light LEDs give off

if I were to do LEDs it would be a very extensive ordeal. id have to cover all the leds so Id be using their reflected light make a ton of acrylic and plexi accents to transfer the light

zi might do something but I am more in the mock up phase than the aesthetics phase right now.

after i am done with haswell-e hardware testing, I might shift over more to some mods but right now I just want to get my PC together

sides I kinda like the look of black and acrylic it gives it an interesting stealth feel


----------



## lowfat

Didn't @B NEGATIVE use a piece of frosted acrylic over an LED strip to defuse and soften the light? At least I think that is who did it.


----------



## Cyclops

It's finally finished.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Didn't @B NEGATIVE use a piece of frosted acrylic over an LED strip to defuse and soften the light? At least I think that is who did it.


yeah i think i have seen somethings frosted before
Thats whats gonna take me forever to make xD


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah i think i have seen somethings frosted before
> Thats whats gonna take me forever to make xD


Take a piece of acrylic tubing. Cut in half. File the one edge down till it sits flat. Then just frost it by sanding w/ 400grit. I think I could make it in 5 minutes.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I like that idea. I am going to have some fun with that.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> It's finally finished.


Looks very much the business! Excellent build.


----------



## wermad

Koolance gpu block came in. Smelled like antifreeze, so I have it a clean. Found a bit of nickel deterioration, but it's a non flow area. Will plumb it with the 380 tonight. Need some distilled from Wal-Mart







.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I don't see why not, its not like using res/pump/rad combo's is against the rules


Good point!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So 3 weeks after I spilt water in my PSU, if I plug it in think it'll go bang?


----------



## electro2u

Basics:
How in heck do people install radiators horizontally with fans flush against the top of a case? I'm trying to hold the thing up, with 3 loose fans on it, and thread screws down through the top of the chassis frame and it's just driving me mad. Obviously once you get started the thing will hold itself up but the gtx nemesis isn't exactly light. Do people tape the fans to the rad to keep them from getting out of alignment? Thanks in advance,
Idiot


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So 3 weeks after I spilt water in my PSU, if I plug it in think it'll go bang?


Had it out in the sun?

Had a fan aimed at it?

Connectors dry?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Had it out in the sun?
> 
> Had a fan aimed at it?
> 
> Connectors dry?


Nah not in the sun but I've had a fan going non stop in my room

All the water went inside the PSU under the board and around a lot of the capacitors

If I fry it, it doesnt bother me to much, its not like I cant buy another one


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Basics:
> How in heck do people install radiators horizontally with fans flush against the top of a case? I'm trying to hold the thing up, with 3 loose fans on it, and thread screws down through the top of the chassis frame and it's just driving me mad. Obviously once you get started the thing will hold itself up but the gtx nemesis isn't exactly light. Do people tape the fans to the rad to keep them from getting out of alignment? Thanks in advance,
> Idiot


If you can, use one or two short screws to hold the fan.

What I do: use short scews (if the fan housing allows) and.use fan screws.

Or, just run on bank of fans.


----------



## skupples

Ha, I almost had a melt down...

Fired up the PC to do some more bleeding... Notice some dripping (wasn't dripping last night) start freaking out, searching all over... Then realize that it's just a loose radiator cap. The drastic drop in ambient temps since yesterday must have been enough to constrict the o-rings on that cap. was 70f 24 hours ago, now 45f.

I really just need to get this back together and forget about it for another 12 months. No new beast systems until Broadwell-E and Pascal 2.0... I will however be watercooling my mini-test server (4core xeon w/ striped HDDs) which should be an exponentially easier project than the STH10, as it's all going into my old Storm Trooper case. I wanted to leave it in my old Corsair 500R, but there just isn't room in that thing for more than one >120.1 radiator.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you can, use one or two short screws to hold the fan.
> 
> What I do: use short scews (if the fan housing allows) and.use fan screws.
> 
> Or, just run on bank of fans.


Hey thanks for the reply! Feel a bit sheepish for getting stuck on this but always ran my top rad in exhaust mode previously and I'm convinced they should all be intakes now.

I can't decide what might be meant by bank of fans. Thinking of trying my tape idea as well. If I put screws in the fans before installing them at the top of the chassis along with the rad just below them, I won't be able to remove those screws after. Installing radiators is definitely a pain. It's up there with bending acrylic in my opinion.. At least on my 760t's


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hey thanks for the reply! Feel a bit sheepish for getting stuck on this but always ran my top rad in exhaust mode previously and I'm convinced they should all be intakes now.
> 
> I can't decide what might be meant by bank of fans. Thinking of trying my tape idea as well. If I put screws in the fans before installing them at the top of the chassis along with the rad just below them, I won't be able to remove those screws after. Installing radiators is definitely a pain. It's up there with bending acrylic in my opinion.. At least on my 760t's


He means use like 2 short screws and two long screws on each fan or some combination of that, so that not all the screws have to go through the case. Nothing wrong with that.

What I normally do is just start at one end with a single fan and install the two end screws, that gives it some support and will hold steady with one hand while still being able to bend down from the case roof to let more fans in, slide in the middle fan and add two more screws loosely, slide in the last fan and secure all the screws. With a bit of practise it isn't too hard.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Discount codes folks.

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(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from December 11th through December 18th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Didn't @B NEGATIVE use a piece of frosted acrylic over an LED strip to defuse and soften the light? At least I think that is who did it.


I went to LED lighthouse and used their LED channel extrusions with opal covers.

It looks 100x better than just stock strips....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Basics:
> How in heck do people install radiators horizontally with fans flush against the top of a case? I'm trying to hold the thing up, with 3 loose fans on it, and thread screws down through the top of the chassis frame and it's just driving me mad. Obviously once you get started the thing will hold itself up but the gtx nemesis isn't exactly light. Do people tape the fans to the rad to keep them from getting out of alignment? Thanks in advance,
> Idiot


IT was very hard when I had to mount the XSPC Rx 360 V3 up top on the 750D. But I was able to use one hand and just have the fans sitting on top of the rad loosely while I started a screw here and there. Since the top of the Case was vented I used a screwdriver to move the fans if they switched positions here and there.

The Cautious One

PS: I was sweating horribly when I had to hold the Rad up though


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I went to LED lighthouse and used their LED channel extrusions with opal covers.
> 
> It looks 100x better than just stock strips....


100%

Really helps to diffuse bright and dark spots.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> IT was very hard when I had to mount the XSPC Rx 360 V3 up top on the 750D. But I was able to use one hand and just have the fans sitting on top of the rad loosely while I started a screw here and there. Since the top of the Case was vented I used a screwdriver to move the fans if they switched positions here and there.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> PS: I was sweating horribly when I had to hold the Rad up though


Thanks for the advice! I think Jakusonfire made a really important point about being able to bend the rad down by only starting get with rear screw for support first. Much appreciated guys.


----------



## saint19

Hi guys...

My rig after cleaning day, not the best one but I am still thinking how to re organize the RL










Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


----------



## emsj86

I know it's ot. But you guys have always helped and it's hard to get a true answer on this. Ok so I have a fx8350 custom water cooled as shown before on this thread and will be buying a i7 4790k. What our the good boards for this cpu for overclocking. I prefer the boards with the protection like the sabertooth for looks but any good board will do I'm on the fence of the hero or sabertooth mark 1 but don't like the color scheme. I rather have something black or white


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I know it's ot. But you guys have always helped and it's hard to get a true answer on this. Ok so I have a fx8350 custom water cooled as shown before on this thread and will be buying a i7 4790k. What our the good boards for this cpu for overclocking. I prefer the boards with the protection like the sabertooth for looks but any good board will do I'm on the fence of the hero or sabertooth mark 1 but don't like the color scheme. I rather have something black or white


Black...would have to go with MSI or Gigabyte "BK" series. White, MSI Krait (Z97) or ASUS also have a white version, not sure if it's 1150 or 2011-v3


----------



## emsj86

Thank you. So it will seem that unlike amd most intel board can overclock well. I like he msi krait look as long as it's a good overclocking board I'll probably go with it. Save 100 over a sabertooth


----------



## MadHatter5045

Intel has more board selection in general, which leads to more good overclocking boards







.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thank you. So it will seem that unlike amd most intel board can overclock well. I like he msi krait look as long as it's a good overclocking board I'll probably go with it. Save 100 over a sabertooth


The thing i've noticed is with the last couple generations of Intel CPUs is that overclocking is really only limited by the CPU's silicon lottery.
Whether you get a $120 ITX board or a monster $250+ monster ROG board, the CPU will overclock about the same, so long as the board allows for it. Both LinusTech and TTL have made videos on the subject. (not sure how that works with X99, but definitely the case with Z77 and Z87 systems.)

The only difference is about the preference for price, size, looks or included features.
So it's really down to what's most important to you and where you want to put your money.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can say the SOC Force line from Gigabyte is nice for OC'ing


----------



## tatmMRKIV

all the OC labeled boards are good for OCing from asus msi asrock or gigabyte.. depends on specifically what you are doing.
personally I prefer ASRock.
because I like to overclock PSC ram and if I ever get around to LN2 its precoated
but their lack of 3rd party watercooling support is appalling


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The only thing that matters on a board is the quality of its VRM,most,if not all, boards that OC will all achieve close numbers to each other,from the cheapest to the most expensive.
You are really paying for garnish and those pretty heatsinks,70% of the features you wont use anyway.


----------



## emsj86

Yea I'm just looking for a black or a white color board. I do like the boards with the guard like the mark 1 has (mainly just bc I think it looks nice and some you can paint). I do t care about sound bc I have a sound card. I just need a board that will not overheat when oc (I don't plan to water cool the board just cpu and gpu) and that is atx size. And thanks for the help in know it was ot


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yea I'm just looking for a black or a white color board. I do like the boards with the guard like the mark 1 has (mainly just bc I think it looks nice and some you can paint). I do t care about sound bc I have a sound card. I just need a board that will not overheat when oc (I don't plan to water cool the board just cpu and gpu) and that is atx size. And thanks for the help in know it was ot


In that last part, if you want a motherboard that don't overheat when you do OC, make you sure that you get one with heatsinks in it. I am pretty sure that even, a $20 USD difference can make the difference between stable or not stable.


----------



## DarthBaggins

What about the Evga z97 Classified?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yea I'm just looking for a *black or a white color board.* I do like the boards with the guard like the mark 1 has (mainly just bc I think it looks nice and some you can paint). I do t care about sound bc I have a sound card. I just need a board that will not overheat when oc (I don't plan to water cool the board just cpu and gpu) and that is atx size. And thanks for the help in know it was ot


MSI Krait then.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's a good looking board, now is there aftermarket cooling available for said board?


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The only thing that matters on a board is the quality of its VRM,most,if not all, boards that OC will all achieve close numbers to each other,from the cheapest to the most expensive.
> You are really paying for garnish and those pretty heatsinks,70% of the features you wont use anyway.


Very true, but people also buy for the warranty and support. I was recently looking at the ASRock X99 OC and emailed asrock several questions two weeks ago but they never got back to me. That saids a lot about the company so I ended up purchasing the x99-A and the Rampage V instead. (And they both OC the same)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What about the Evga z97 Classified?


Currently having EVGA RMA nightmare #2 for me. I initiated the RMA 40 days ago and still don't have a working product. At this rate I'll be lucky if I can have something working by January next year for a product I sent in back in early November.

Their lower level CS is very prompt and consistent but somewhere in the upper cycle/management information gets lost and you're forced to repeat the RMA cycle at least 2~4 times before you get something. It's very messed up and the man hours they spend ends up costing more than the product itself.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MSI Krait then.


Msi krait seems like the one. Thanks again. I regret going with the 8350 but at the time I didn't expect to get this I to computers. But hey it happens so this time I don't want to regret it and will go i7 4790k than the i5.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Very true, but people also buy for the warranty and support. I was recently looking at the ASRock X99 OC and emailed asrock several questions two weeks ago but they never got back to me. That saids a lot about the company so I ended up purchasing the x99-A and the Rampage V instead. (And they both OC the same)
> Currently having EVGA RMA nightmare #2 for me. I initiated the RMA 40 days ago and still don't have a working product. At this rate I'll be lucky if I can have something working by January next year for a product I sent in back in early November.
> 
> Their lower level CS is very prompt and consistent but somewhere in the upper cycle/management information gets lost and you're forced to repeat the RMA cycle at least 2~4 times before you get something. It's very messed up and the man hours they spend ends up costing more than the product itself.


Thats funny cuz I emailed or snailmailed asrock for a special sli bridge and that didnt even take a week

They probably just don't respond to sales questions for emails since they haev a forum for that sort of thing.
I ended up with an OCF and rve waiting on a processor though


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What about the Evga z97 Classified?


Those are excellent, but the most "cheap" EVGA Z97 board that you can find on newegg is around $164.99 and it's mITX. The MSI Krait is around $139.99


----------



## DarthBaggins

Could try Microcenter's online web store


----------



## Ceadderman

Hafta add some input on the horizontal mounting of a 360. Get a horizontal fax mount an attach it to the case to make it stable and get some Koolance quick mount studs. To seal the fans to my 360, I use the Phobya 7mm shroud/dampeners. They're squishy so they get compressed enough to create a tight seal.

Getting the fans onto the studs are a bit of a chore, but it is still a better option than wrenching 12 studs separately.

~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

Beast is finally back online. Looks soo much better w/ 4x 480s over 3x 480s and 1x 360, even if going 4x 480 wasn't the initial intention, it's how it played out. Funny thing is, somehow my flow rates are slightly higher. It only took ~16 hours to fully bleed....







Alphacool rads are almost worth it, just for that bleed cap, when it comes to inverting a radiator.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beast is finally back online. Looks soo much better w/ 4x 480s over 3x 480s and 1x 360, even if going 4x 480 wasn't the initial intention, it's how it played out. Funny thing is, somehow my flow rates are slightly higher. It only took ~16 hours to fully bleed....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool rads are almost worth it, just for that bleed cap, when it comes to inverting a radiator.


I see you added a Santa Hat. Thats nice.

So How did you fully bleed the Rads?

The Cautious One


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I see you added a Santa Hat. Thats nice.
> 
> So How did you fully bleed the Rads?
> 
> The Cautious One


lots and lots of violent shaking, & running both DDCs @ max cycle while at work for two days(60%)

Luckily, the MAIN air trap is in here




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







































and yes, I intentionally lined up all those through ports with the replaceable 120.1 inserts so that I could replace them & redesign at some point. I don't really plan to replace the STH10 any time soon / ever. Only thing i would do (Which i'm doing now) is setup a smaller build, which happens to be my Z77 test environment server. Getting the 4 core Xeon (because it costs less than 3770k) & the platters in next week. Still not decided on how i'll cool it, though i'm going for 100% silent.

picture shows incomplete piping, but that 90 degree fitting down at the end tracks back to one of the rads...

comes up from the MOBO section, into a rad, out of the rad into another rad, down the case into the reservoir, which ends up being a bigger air trap than the inverted front 480 radiator.

I have Bitspower flow valves on each of those rads to make purging out air (without the shake & recycle nonsense) much easier.

Some day i'll replace all of those 90s w/ 2x 45s, though worrying about restriction is kinda pointless with 2x DDC.

these 3 year old, battered & beaten DDCs still do 250L/h in their current setup. You can see the cavitation wear all over the impellers, but they still work just fine!


----------



## wermad

Leak testing: those plugs need to be cranked tightly, especially tha Monsta plugs. Caught three leaks, two on rad plugs and one on the gpu plug. Guess I need to the weight room again







.

It's been leak free for a few hours and it running atm.

Just gotta get that last gpu blocked. Tight budget so on the hunt for a cheap used one







. I have some BP Aqua links to use then and trim off that excess tube coming from the bottom chamber.



Must say, in terms of audio, can't really tell the difference between a D5 vario @ 5 vs a mcp35x. I'll try speed setting #4 when I put in the last gpu block.


----------



## agung79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Leak testing: those plugs need to be cranked tightly, especially tha Monsta plugs. Caught three leaks, two on rad plugs and one on the gpu plug. Guess I need to the weight room again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> It's been leak free for a few hours and it running atm.
> 
> Just gotta get that last gpu blocked. Tight budget so on the hunt for a cheap used one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have some BP Aqua links to use then and trim off that excess tube coming from the bottom chamber.
> 
> 
> 
> Must say, in terms of audio, can't really tell the difference between a D5 vario @ 5 vs a mcp35x. I'll try speed setting #4 when I put in the last gpu block.


Its okay to put that power unit like that? The hot air will all over inside your case.... ?

D5 better than ddc, i have 2 dead ddc already.... Leak goes to ddc pcb n dead on action....


----------



## Ironsmack

@Skupples wouldn't those 2 set of fans be fighting each other for air, with them being that close?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agung79*
> 
> D5 better than ddc, i have 2 dead ddc already.... Leak goes to ddc pcb n dead on action....


ddc is better than d5.
actually which is better depends on what you need more of, flow or pressure.


----------



## Lefik

What do you guys think of TDC pumps? PPCs just added one to their site.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/topsflo-tdc-long-lifetime-silent-dc-pc-water-cooling-pump.html

They seem to like it a lot, but I've never heard of them.


----------



## agung79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ddc is better than d5.
> actually which is better depends on what you need more of, flow or pressure.


Nope d5 better, need more preassure added another d5 pump, just my opinion thought


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Out of curiosity which D5 do people like better and why, the Vario or PWM?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Out of curiosity which D5 do people like better and why, the Vario or PWM?


For me - Aqua Computer D5 is hands down the winner.
Sure you gotta pay a bit extra, but worth spending the extra for out of the box plug n play control.
Speed / Flow rate control via Aquasuite is just too easy


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agung79*
> 
> Nope d5 better, need more preassure added another d5 pump, just my opinion though


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> actually which is better depends on what you need more of, flow or pressure.


d5 more flow. ddc more pressure.
just because its your opinion doesnt mean its right. when its wrong its an opinion (and wrong). when its right, its a fact. sorry but the ddc has more pressure than a d5. saying add another d5 just doubled the cost of your pumping power.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> What do you guys think of TDC pumps? PPCs just added one to their site.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/topsflo-tdc-long-lifetime-silent-dc-pc-water-cooling-pump.html
> 
> They seem to like it a lot, but I've never heard of them.


Very interesting for sure. I see the source on Alibaba as well as their pricing. Some of the numbers seem too good to be true but at 6w, I'd imagine it would be a decent and quiet pump. Hopefully someone will test it out.


----------



## agung79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Out of curiosity which D5 do people like better and why, the Vario or PWM?


Just like i said, for ddc they hot n when o ring fail n pump top fail, water just go trhough the pcb na burn the ic...
If u are a simple man, just pick the varion n let it be the max set for pump all the time...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> For me - Aqua Computer D5 is hands down the winner.
> Sure you gotta pay a bit extra, but worth spending the extra for out of the box plug n play control.
> Speed / Flow rate control via Aquasuite is just too easy


Haha nice

I'm starting to think I should of just gone a PWM version rather then the Vario (which is what I might do if I have anymore flow problems with my loop) I dont really see much of a difference apart from maybe needing to run the motherboard while you fill / bleed, not that you couldnt run it off another board








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agung79*
> 
> Just like i said, for ddc they hot n when o ring fail n pump top fail, water just go trhough the pcb na burn the ic...
> If u are a simple man, just pick the varion n let it be the max set for pump all the time...


I already got a D5 Vario I was just curious why everyone seemed to go them over PWM


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Haha nice
> 
> I'm starting to think I should of just gone a PWM version rather then the Vario (which is what I might do if I have anymore flow problems with my loop) I dont really see much of a difference apart from maybe needing to run the motherboard while you fill / bleed, not that you couldnt run it off another board


Another advantage of the Aqua Computer D5








You can control pump speed from an Aquaero without having to have power up the mobo ( for testing and commissioning)


----------



## agung79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> d5 more flow. ddc more pressure.
> just because its your opinion doesnt mean its right. when its wrong its an opinion (and wrong). when its right, its a fact. sorry but the ddc has more pressure than a d5. saying add another d5 just doubled the cost of your pumping power.


Yup you right, i just have bad luck for my two dead ddc pump


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Another advantage of the Aqua Computer D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can control pump speed from an Aquaero without having to have power up the mobo ( for testing and commissioning)


Nice, I'm to lazy to have fancy controller suiff in my rig, I dont have flow meters, temp sensors or anything bout all I will have is lights


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Nice, I'm to lazy to have fancy controller suiff in my rig, I dont have flow meters, temp sensors or anything bout all I will have is lights


Hah - lucky you, and if you don't think you'll use it or get value from the info provided - why bother.

Nearly finished a new scratch build test rig with...
panel flow meter,
6 coolant temp sensors and probably end up with 12 air temp sensors, all with data logging via CrystalFontz
Fan control from via Aquasuite + switches and voltage booster for over-volting fans with Volts gauges for each set of fans with data logging.
Pump control via Aquasuite with volts and amp gauge and data logging.
2 x 150mm ducting in and out for climate control.
+more
Plenty custom wiring had to be done on this rig


----------



## Willi

Guys, I have a question

I've rarely seen These used in any WC project and I was wondering:
Compared to rads of same thickness (so forget those chunky monstas we love so much) is there any performance difference? Are they less restritive than a normal radiator?
I got two of the older Black Ice versions (one 360 and one 240) and it seems it really helps with the tubing/piping clutter inside the case, they are practical because of the fitting placement, one in each end.
Am I making a mistake by choosing those or its alright to use them?
I already started modding an 800D to fit a 240mm in the bottom and still keep the piping hidden, but I can switch back to normal rads, the only problem is that I'll loose the clean look I was going after.


----------



## pc-illiterate

very little performance difference between the crossflows and dual pass.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Guys, I have a question
> 
> I've rarely seen These used in any WC project and I was wondering:
> Compared to rads of same thickness (so forget those chunky monstas we love so much) is there any performance difference? Are they less restritive than a normal radiator?
> I got two of the older Black Ice versions (one 360 and one 240) and it seems it really helps with the tubing/piping clutter inside the case, they are practical because of the fitting placement, one in each end.
> Am I making a mistake by choosing those or its alright to use them?
> I already started modding an 800D to fit a 240mm in the bottom and still keep the piping hidden, but I can switch back to normal rads, the only problem is that I'll loose the clean look I was going after.


The Nemesis GTS range are a lot more restrictive than pretty much any other rad.
Now that in itself is not a problem so long as you are aware and have pump "power" spare.
The cooling performance is very good for the thickness, however the deltas are higher for the same cooling capacity as thicker rads.

If space is a concern for you, then these are a great choice, just be aware of the restrictiveness.









*EDIT - didn't notice the cross-flow*







- won't be so bad then, but I haven't tested one out


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> very little performance difference between the crossflows and dual pass.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The Nemesis GTS range are a lot more restrictive than pretty much any other rad.
> Now that in itself is not a problem so long as you are aware and have pump "power" spare.
> The cooling performance is very good for the thickness, however the deltas are higher for the same cooling capacity as thicker rads.
> 
> If space is a concern for you, then these are a great choice, just be aware of the restrictiveness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT - didn't notice the cross-flow*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - won't be so bad then, but I haven't tested one out


So it has pretty much the same cooling capacity as a dual pass, but less restriction? That's awesome!
Thanks a lot for the quick help. I don't like the visual of very thick rads, despite the performance. I'd rather stick to discrete, thin rads with low FPI and silent fans.
The monsta's only look good if you manage to make them seem like part of the case instead of just a chunky piece of hardware hanging inside it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *agung79*
> 
> Nope d5 better, need more preassure added another d5 pump, just my opinion though
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> actually which is better depends on what you need more of, flow or pressure.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> d5 more flow. ddc more pressure.
> just because its your opinion doesnt mean its right. when its wrong its an opinion (and wrong). when its right, its a fact. sorry but the ddc has more pressure than a d5. saying add another d5 just doubled the cost of your pumping power.
Click to expand...

For me,the emphisis on pressure v flow is not the reason to buy D5's,the silence and reliability is why the D5 is my goto pump.
The pressure that is produced by the DDC is only marginally better than the D5 and has no tangible benefit in RL,its an often quoted number but not overly relevent.

If power is your aim then a D5 strong with a 24v stepup will piss rings round the DDC and still maintain silence and reliabilty.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For me,the emphisis on pressure v flow is not the reason to buy D5's,the silence and reliability is why the D5 is my goto pump.
> The pressure that is produced by the DDC is only marginally better than the D5 and has no tangible benefit in RL,its an often quoted number but not overly relevent..


ah the old DDC Vs D5 debate!

D5 FTW









the only time I would ever run a DDC again over a D5 is if space was the deciding factor.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> ah the old DDC Vs D5 debate!
> 
> D5 FTW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the only time I would ever run a DDC again over a D5 is if space was the deciding factor.


And when space really _is_ the deciding factor, you generally have fewer components. A DDC @ 20-30% PWM provides enough turbulence for a simple CPU+GPU+rad and is quiet enough compared to any other pump.


----------



## starjammer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> ah the old DDC Vs D5 debate!
> 
> D5 FTW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the only time I would ever run a DDC again over a D5 is if space was the deciding factor.


But what about the MCP50x over a D5? I'm not sure if the 50x can be considered a DDC.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> And when space really _is_ the deciding factor, you generally have fewer components. A DDC @ 20-30% PWM provides enough turbulence for a simple CPU+GPU+rad and is quiet enough compared to any other pump.


yeah that's true, there ideal for small form factors or simple loops tbh & if your not trying to run them full tilt 24/7.
my rig is on 24/7 & rarely ever gets switched off. its even on when I sleep, so reliability & silence is a must for me









cant you tell I really don't like DDC's









I really hate them with a passion!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> yeah that's true, there ideal for small form factors or simple loops tbh & if your not trying to run them full tilt 24/7.
> my rig is on 24/7 & rarely ever gets switched off. its even on when I sleep, so reliability & silence is a must for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant you tell I really don't like DDC's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hate them with a passion!


My Rig Won't Be on 24/7 But I just bought 2 x DDC 3.2 18w Swiftech for my new Rig. I used one in my Brother Parvum Build and Really Fell In love with them.

Purchased 2 x 240mm V3 Rx360 XSPC Rads and Still Looking around for the other 2 x 480's I need.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> My Rig Won't Be on 24/7 But I just bought 2 x DDC 3.2 18w Swiftech for my new Rig. I used one in my Brother Parvum Build and Really Fell In love with them.
> 
> Purchased 2 x 240mm V3 Rx360 XSPC Rads and Still Looking around for the other 2 x 480's I need.


I know a lot of people like them, I fell in love with D5's after coming from a mcp355. that thing use to buzz & hum & get extremely hot!
it was a nightmare!

for the newer mcp35x & 50x I have no idea if there any better really tbh. I just cringe when I think of DDC's lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> I know a lot of people like them, I fell in love with D5's after coming from a mcp355. that thing use to buzz & hum & get extremely hot!
> it was a nightmare!
> 
> for the newer mcp35x & 50x I have no idea if there any better really tbh. I just cringe when I think of DDC's lol.


I have replacement EK DDC Acrylic Tops and also The EK Heatsinks for the DDC Fixtures (Nickle) I will run the piss out of these things when they are on.. I will See what We can come up with.

Which Brings me to ask, I am using the D5 Vario 270 XSPC Reservoir Combo, Thinking of just using the D5 from it and Re- doing my loop in the 750D I own. Hmm.. THis could get interesting. The D5 Is extremely Quiet I can attest to that. I could only hear the DDC WHen i put my ear to my brothers acrylic Parvum.

The Cautious One


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have replacement EK DDC Acrylic Tops and also The EK Heatsinks for the DDC Fixtures (Nickle) I will run the piss out of these things when they are on.. I will See what We can come up with.
> 
> Which Brings me to ask, I am using the D5 Vario 270 XSPC Reservoir Combo, Thinking of just using the D5 from it and Re- doing my loop in the 750D I own. Hmm.. THis could get interesting. The D5 Is extremely Quiet I can attest to that. I could only hear the DDC WHen i put my ear to my brothers acrylic Parvum.
> 
> The Cautious One


well the 3.2's or the 355 whatever you want to call them. they aren't meant for quite operation at all. swiftech even state it on there site now.
I never had the heatsink on mine & the placement that I had it in my case at the time caused some disturbing rattling. I used a foam pad to dampen that & then temps were way to scary on the pump for my liking. all my tubing around it started to heat up also.

DDC's have there purpose I guess









but I will say if you have no problems with fitting a D5 in your build. do it! especially if your looking for long term endurance.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, I just ordered an EK-Supremacy EVO white edition for 41 USD, what a steal if you ask me!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have replacement EK DDC Acrylic Tops and also The EK Heatsinks for the DDC Fixtures (Nickle) I will run the piss out of these things when they are on.. I will See what We can come up with.
> 
> Which Brings me to ask, I am using the D5 Vario 270 XSPC Reservoir Combo, Thinking of just using the D5 from it and Re- doing my loop in the 750D I own. Hmm.. THis could get interesting. The D5 Is extremely Quiet I can attest to that. I could only hear the DDC WHen i put my ear to my brothers acrylic Parvum.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> 
> 
> well the 3.2's or the 355 whatever you want to call them. they aren't meant for quite operation at all. swiftech even state it on there site now.
> I never had the heatsink on mine & the placement that I had it in my case at the time caused some disturbing rattling. I used a foam pad to dampen that & then temps were way to scary on the pump for my liking. all my tubing around it started to heat up also.
> 
> *DDC's have there purpose I guess*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I will say if you have no problems with fitting a D5 in your build. do it! especially if your looking for long term endurance.
Click to expand...

Im using one for LUMO,purely as there is absolutely no room for a d5....

Still not a fan of them tho,the several burnt out ones I have are enough for me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've been fortunate with my ddc I bought used and has run strong for over a year +, but I know ill be looking for something else soon just don't know 100% what yet


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agung79*
> 
> Its okay to put that power unit like that? The hot air will all over inside your case.... ?
> 
> D5 better than ddc, i have 2 dead ddc already.... Leak goes to ddc pcb n dead on action....


Exhaust fan in the front











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Out of curiosity which D5 do people like better and why, the Vario or PWM?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Nice, I'm to lazy to have fancy controller suiff in my rig, I dont have flow meters, temp sensors or anything bout all I will have is lights
Click to expand...

Yeah, didn't have time or funds to cover a fancy controller. Was gonna go w/ pwm fans but I just keep my current fans under 5v using the psu (rewire a custom molex harness). .

I really can't seem to find a noise difference vs my old mcp35x. But I do like how the D5 purges out air quicker. Maybe it should get quieter as time purges the rest of the air in. I got one because i wanted the BP dress kit but my top wasn't compatible (







). Still, a good clean and some fancy painting (







) makes it look decent.

Side note, these AC reservoirs are a treat to fill and expel air! Always was wondering why such an intricate design.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> @Skupples wouldn't those 2 set of fans be fighting each other for air, with them being that close?


In theory, most likely. I first had them blowing at each other, but it was REALLY loud and you could see the turbulence was affecting each bank, so I flipped them, which reduced the noise A ton, remember though the top of my case is covered in air holes, and I leave the PSU covers off to let air in the back as well.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> yeah that's true, there ideal for small form factors or simple loops tbh & if your not trying to run them full tilt 24/7.
> my rig is on 24/7 & rarely ever gets switched off. its even on when I sleep, so reliability & silence is a must for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant you tell I really don't like DDC's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hate them with a passion!


I've been running 2 DDC @ 100% (60) for 3 years, and I've only ran maintenance on them once via upgrading to the EK bottoms.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I've been running 2 DDC @ 100% (60) for 3 years, and I've only ran maintenance on them once via upgrading to the EK bottoms.


Thats what I like to hear!!

The Cautious One


----------



## wermad

Seems to be a lot of animosity towards the DDC here. I like em, and the D5, so I'm neutral







.

edit: my old one was a work horse, powering through five rads and *nine* blocks


----------



## The Storm

I've owned both d5's and ddc's and I am currently back to a ddc. The only problem I had with my D5's is that they always seemed to vibrate and the resonance throughout the case was annoying to me. I could even feel the vibrations in the computer desk at times, and it seemed no matter how I decoupled it I could still hear and feel it.


----------



## Alex132

I own a PWM D5, and it doesn't vibrate at even 100%. It does produce a high pitched soft whine past ~50% however.
Also I'd much rather have a D5, just for the comfort of knowing it doesn't get hot and is dead silent at ~25% that I run it at.


----------



## wermad

There's a bunch of accessories for the D5, so that's probably one of its major appeals.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

my e3 is amazingly quiet, they are pricey but eliminate the need for 2 pumps in a loop
and they last forever
and its compatible with all the D5 accessories

and their headpressure is greater than mcp35x and probably 50x
which reminds me I need to get 2more
for 300$ though X.X


----------



## skupples

E3?


----------



## korruptedkaos

ive not had a DDC fail as such, so that's not my problem with them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I've been running 2 DDC @ 100% (60) for 3 years, and I've only ran maintenance on them once via upgrading to the EK bottoms.


is that 2x 18w or 10w versions & is that 24/7 running constantly day in & day out for months on end?
for me by the time you buy all the addon heatsinks & everything its cheaper & easier to just use a D5. it runs quieter & ive never had any problems with vibrations from them.

everyone will have had there different experience's with each of them I guess & there will always be those prefer one over the other.

for me if I slap a D5 in







I don't feel the need to keep checking on it constantly & it gives me peace of mind!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> E3?


Laing Ecocirc 3,mains powered pump.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Laing Ecocirc 3,mains powered pump.


huh, always thought those were called E10. Don't those require special transformers to run off of 12V PSU?

Always thought it would be fun to get one of the D5solars, & just stick the little panel outside of my window. Shouldn't be much of an issue since I live in Florida, and my office is on the sunny side of the house... I would just need a big enough battery to power it through the night.

thx
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> my e3 is amazingly quiet, they are pricey but eliminate the need for 2 pumps in a loop
> and they last forever
> and its compatible with all the D5 accessories
> 
> and their headpressure is greater than mcp35x and probably 50x
> which reminds me I need to get 2more
> for 300$ though X.X


would love to see some pictures of that :3
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> ive not had a DDC fail as such, so that's not my problem with them.
> is that 2x 18w or 10w versions & is that 24/7 running constantly day in & day out for months on end?
> for me by the time you buy all the addon heatsinks & everything its cheaper & easier to just use a D5. it runs quieter & ive never had any problems with vibrations from them.
> 
> everyone will have had there different experience's with each of them I guess & there will always be those prefer one over the other.
> 
> for me if I slap a D5 in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't feel the need to keep checking on it constantly & it gives me peace of mind!


They MCP35x's from Swiftech, which i'm pretty sure are the 18W versions. Two years w/ stock housings from Swiftech, and one year w/ EK bottoms. Yes, 24/7, as in the only time my PC is off is when it's being worked on, restarting for updates, or i'm out of town.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Lol it has a wallplug i waited to say anything since bneg replied.
Just look up laing e3 in google. It is the brass top one with 100-220v
Mine is currently in my 4790k build and even with leds on you cant see it through the tinted window


----------



## wermad

the "d5 solar" pdf rendering makes the brass look like anodized-gold aluminum. But then you see the brass real-life pics and it looks like plain, ol' industrial brass


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> my e3 is amazingly quiet, they are pricey but eliminate the need for 2 pumps in a loop
> and they last forever
> and its compatible with all the D5 accessories
> 
> and their headpressure is greater than mcp35x and probably 50x
> which reminds me I need to get 2more
> for 300$ though X.X


Seeing as you're one of the few around here actually using an E-series Laing, you might want to weigh in on this month old thread with your observations (I had already mentioned you there):
http://www.overclock.net/t/1522897/laing-e-series-pumps-have-they-been-considered/

Several there, including Martin, were looking at the stats on them and didn't really think they would be a very good choice for watercooling, at least considering the costs and that they required 120/240v so the extra 'heat dump' associated with that ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Look at the PQ curve, at 11' max pressure it's not going to perform in a restrictive PC loop any better than a single D5 hydraulically and when you add in the extra 30w of heat dump it may very likely be a step backwards over a 12v D5.
> 
> Looks like it's much more of a high flow/low pressure focused pump for stuff like hot tubs/etc.
> 
> Our loops are generally pretty high in restriction so a more high pressure low volume pump tuning is preferred.
> 
> Probably would "work" just not sure it would be any benefit looking at the pressure vs flow curve and considering power consumption. Pretty hard to beat the D5 or DDC 12v series.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Lol ueah that brass is nothing spectacular. Just cast brass. Only real advantages are larger diameter and you can port and polish it. Itd look great with copper hardline tubing setup though. I am sorta tempted to do that route on a build..
I mean its thick enough for you to polish the exterior

i got it on a bp top mod-s i am going to try and finess a second inlet outlet with some low diameter tubing .. or just gonna get some more ek tops and say forget that nonsensical bp design

Damn i have to restart.
Internet crashed on my s5. Ok i have a ecocirc thats 8-24v d5 strong but it needs voltage past 12v which is a lil hairy finding.

Ok the ek tops dont work on e3 because you need either to widen the hole for the power cable, because its power cable comes off the side. And its a fat ass 3prong wall cable. Or you have to cut off cable and reattach or just detach it somehow..

Bp works but getting huge fittings on it is nearly impossible


----------



## skupples

your side can't be removed?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Ok the ek tops dont work on e3 because you need either to widen the hole for the power cable, because its power cable comes off the side. And its a fat ass 3prong wall cable. Or you have to cut off cable and reattach or just detach it somehow..
> e


You will need to cut off the connector to sleeve the cable anyways.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Its part of the housing i can get it loose but not off without cutting the cable and reattaching it.
You know on ek tops they dont use the screw on piece to fasten the pump to the top.the cable is attached to the mainbody on the side instead of the back

I think you both are missing some fundementals about this pump
The e3 that i cant put the ek top on uses a cable thats the same as any powersupply cable minus its hardwired to the pump instead of having a connector

http://www.pumpproducts.com/laing-6050u5015-model-e3-bcuvnn1w-11-series-circulating-pump-with-adjustable-speed-and-plug-sweat-union-connections-lead-free-brass-p-537388.html
its that without the valve


----------



## VSG

That price though!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That price though!


yaeh... I rather pickup dual D5s / PWM DDCs.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Yeah i am probably gonna get 2 for 250 or something. Some oldschool overclocker who retired has a bunch and they are just sitting there.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Its part of the housing i can get it loose but not off without cutting the cable and reattaching it.
> You know on ek tops they dont use the screw on piece to fasten the pump to the top.the cable is attached to the mainbody on the side instead of the back
> 
> I think you both are missing some fundementals about this pump
> The e3 that i cant put the ek top on uses a cable thats the same as any powersupply cable minus its hardwired to the pump instead of having a connector
> 
> http://www.pumpproducts.com/laing-6050u5015-model-e3-bcuvnn1w-11-series-circulating-pump-with-adjustable-speed-and-plug-sweat-union-connections-lead-free-brass-p-537388.html
> its that without the valve


Cutting the connector off. Reattach w/ a fancier one.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GOLD-PLATED-AUDIO-AMPLIFIER-CD-PLAYER-POWER-CORD-CONNECTOR-PLUG-120V-240V-M32-/300664627547?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460102215b


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That price though!


Its still fundamentally D5 in nature,it shares the same rotor for example,it just setup for mains power. Torque values should be better but for outright rotor speed,I doubt there is much difference.

All the Laing industrial stuff carries a price tag.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I will take pics of the inside sometime, the end comes off with a screw to get at the circuit board

Its got like 50000hour manufacture life expectancy rating. thats 5.7 years
I googled it.
I dunno its pretty legit and has been moving water like a champ since i installed it a few months ago
I thought it was making a noise once but it turned out to be a powercable got caught up on a fan

Pretty quiet, i have to check its on by feeling the hose cuz i cant hear it over my fans
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Cutting the connector off. Reattach w/ a fancier one.
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GOLD-PLATED-AUDIO-AMPLIFIER-CD-PLAYER-POWER-CORD-CONNECTOR-PLUG-120V-240V-M32-/300664627547?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460102215b


I am sold thatd look sexy coming from my pc, covering the ugly white outlets against my brushednickel socket covers


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I will take pics of the inside sometime, the end comes off with a screw to get at the circuit board
> 
> *Its got like 50000hour manufacture life expectancy rating. thats 5.7 years*
> I googled it.
> I dunno its pretty legit and has been moving water like a champ since i installed it a few months ago
> I thought it was making a noise once but it turned out to be a powercable got caught up on a fan
> 
> Pretty quiet, i have to check its on by feeling the hose cuz i cant hear it over my fans


All Laing products have that as a minimum.

I know you love your pump but its just a mains D5.......


----------



## skupples




----------



## Ceadderman

Running dual DDC-1Ts in my EK v2 block and can't say that I've experienced any problems with them I power them through my Sunbeam FC3 controller so that one runs at all times. They are neither loud nor hot when both are run at full speed during Folding/Gaming sessions.

I cannot for the life of Riley understand how anyone think that a failing o-ring would cause pcb damage. The pump impeller is sealed separately from the pcb workings. About the only way I see that happening is the cover for the pcb wasn't properly seated when installed to the block. I could be wrong but that's how I see it.

But reality is that either work just fine and as has been pointed out, each have their merits. My DDC setup will run dual GPU, Res, Three 360s, CPU and Mainboard. And will be able to be tucked out of site in the process.









~Ceadder


----------



## tatmMRKIV

its not just a mains d5 its a laing thermosphere E3 nn 3 w n 3 A PURE marvel of modern technology
jk
i know I just love them so much


----------



## Leyaena

Hi guys!
I was thinking of picking up a couple of GPU-only blocks for my 980 Classy's, while waiting for the full-cover blocks to come out...

What exactly do I need? Is there a good way to keep the VRM's cooled as well? Would VRM temperatures even be a problem?
I've always gone with full-cover blocks, so I'm a bit lost with GPU-only cooling









Thanks!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I was thinking of picking up a couple of GPU-only blocks for my 980 Classy's, while waiting for the full-cover blocks to come out...
> 
> What exactly do I need? Is there a good way to keep the VRM's cooled as well? Would VRM temperatures even be a problem?
> I've always gone with full-cover blocks, so I'm a bit lost with GPU-only cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Honestly sounds like a waste of time and money. You would want micro heatsinks, and a way to apply them with that glue most people use, unless said glue comes with a solvent for removal. You would then just need to move air over them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I was thinking of picking up a couple of GPU-only blocks for my 980 Classy's, while waiting for the full-cover blocks to come out...
> 
> What exactly do I need? Is there a good way to keep the VRM's cooled as well? Would VRM temperatures even be a problem?
> I've always gone with full-cover blocks, so I'm a bit lost with GPU-only cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly sounds like a waste of time and money. You would want micro heatsinks, and a way to apply them with that glue most people use, unless said glue comes with a solvent for removal. You would then just need to move air over them.
Click to expand...

Swiftech is no longer making their VRAM Mosfet cooler?









~Ceadder


----------



## Leyaena

So I'm basically just better off waiting for the full-cover blocks to come out late january?
Guess I'll do that, then.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I cannot for the life of Riley understand how anyone think that a failing o-ring would cause pcb damage. The pump impeller is sealed separately from the pcb workings. About the only way I see that happening is the cover for the pcb wasn't properly seated when installed to the block. I could be wrong but that's how I see it.
> 
> But reality is that either work just fine and as has been pointed out, each have their merits. My DDC setup will run dual GPU, Res, Three 360s, CPU and Mainboard. And will be able to be tucked out of site in the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If the oring fails on a DDC it will most likely die. The PCB is not sealed off. There are holes on the top of the DDC base and water will drip right on to the PCB.

As for being loud that is subjective. I find DDC-1Ts unbearable. Get the Sanyo-based DIYINHK PCBs for them and then they will actually be quiet.

http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/ddc-pump/12-laing-ddc-water-pump-10w-repair-pcb-wled-mcp350.html


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Honestly sounds like a waste of time and money. You would want micro heatsinks, and a way to apply them with that glue most people use, unless said glue comes with a solvent for removal. You would then just need to move air over them.


the 3m tape that comes on them and that can be bought separate works well. it is definitely not a waste of either time or money. a block that can be moved from gpu to gpu to gpu over a block that has a 98% probability of fitting only that gpu is more 'waste' than uni blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Swiftech is no longer making their VRAM Mosfet cooler?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yes i was bummed when i saw i couldnt buy 2 sinks for my 670s. micro sinks were all i could use.

*EDIT* - yep those diyinhk pcb's are a great upgrade. 2 ddc-1 from bmav are pretty damned quiet at 7v and 9v as well.


----------



## Leyaena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Honestly sounds like a waste of time and money. You would want micro heatsinks, and a way to apply them with that glue most people use, unless said glue comes with a solvent for removal. You would then just need to move air over them.
> 
> 
> 
> the 3m tape that comes on them and that can be bought separate works well. it is definitely not a waste of either time or money. a block that can be moved from gpu to gpu to gpu over a block that has a 98% probability of fitting only that gpu is more 'waste' than uni blocks.
Click to expand...

I've found these, but they seem to be designed to go onto the VRAM modules:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/akasa-ak-vmc01-bk-vga-ram-heatsinks.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I cannot for the life of Riley understand how anyone think that a failing o-ring would cause pcb damage. The pump impeller is sealed separately from the pcb workings. About the only way I see that happening is the cover for the pcb wasn't properly seated when installed to the block. I could be wrong but that's how I see it.
> 
> But reality is that either work just fine and as has been pointed out, each have their merits. My DDC setup will run dual GPU, Res, Three 360s, CPU and Mainboard. And will be able to be tucked out of site in the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the oring fails on a DDC it will most likely die. The PCB is not sealed off. There are holes on the top of the DDC base and water will drip right on to the PCB.
> 
> As for being loud that is subjective. I find DDC-1Ts unbearable. Get the Sanyo-based DIYINHK PCBs for them and then they will actually be quiet.
> 
> http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/ddc-pump/12-laing-ddc-water-pump-10w-repair-pcb-wled-mcp350.html
Click to expand...

This.


----------



## pc-illiterate

try to find these
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/enmofocomohe.html

those sinks you linked are a bit big for vrm


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the 3m tape that comes on them and that can be bought separate works well. it is definitely not a waste of either time or money. a block that can be moved from gpu to gpu to gpu over a block that has a 98% probability of fitting only that gpu is more 'waste' than uni blocks.
> yes i was bummed when i saw i couldnt buy 2 sinks for my 670s. micro sinks were all i could use.
> 
> *EDIT* - yep those diyinhk pcb's are a great upgrade. 2 ddc-1 from bmav are pretty damned quiet at 7v and 9v as well.


I view buying a Classified series type card, then sticking a uniblock on it as wasteful, as you're paying the extra $$$ for that beefy power section, and you won't be pushing it even close to potential with microsyncs.


----------



## Leyaena

Main reason I was considering it was as a placeholder until the full-cover blocks come out, since apparently they've been delayed until the second part of next month.

Could I get away with just cooling the core and leaving the VRMs as is?
Right now I'm getting 80C temps at stock as soon as I put any kind of load on the cards, I'd just like to get those temps down and get the cards into my loop...
Until I get the full-cover blocks late january, I wouldn't really be overclocking them anyway.

Then again, I have no idea how hot the VRMs would get without a heatsink and without an overclock, so that's why I'm asking


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I was thinking of picking up a couple of GPU-only blocks for my 980 Classy's, while waiting for the full-cover blocks to come out...
> 
> What exactly do I need? Is there a good way to keep the VRM's cooled as well? Would VRM temperatures even be a problem?
> I've always gone with full-cover blocks, so I'm a bit lost with GPU-only cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I think the GPU-only waterblocks like the EK Thermosphere might have fitment issues due to the wider pcb. So I guess you'll be looking at the VGA-Supremacy or something similar.
IIRC, Alphacool NexXxos GPX was the best performing block, but also has the highest restriction, wouldn't be a problem if you have a beefy pump.

And I don't think you need special cooling for the VRM's if you don't increase the voltage a lot. Just leave the stock heatspreader on.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Main reason I was considering it was as a placeholder until the full-cover blocks come out, since apparently they've been delayed until the second part of next month.










yeah, saw that announcement.

PC- is correct in his assertion that the uniblock would be a good investment for the long term, assuming you're someone that regularly buys GPUs before the blocks become available.

I typically try to wait until all the ZOMG ZOMG ZOMG MUST HAVE phase has passed, but I'm lazy


----------



## Leyaena

So I wouldn't fry the cards if I just got two EK Supremacy blocks and ran the Classy's at factory speeds until I could get my hands on some full-cover blocks?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> So I wouldn't fry the cards if I just got two EK Supremacy blocks and ran the Classy's at factory speeds until I could get my hands on some full-cover blocks?


Considering how overbuild the VRM is on the classy, It should be fine with stock speeds. And you can always use gpu-z to check the vrm temps, just in case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lucky for me the unisyncs are still available for my cards.

My 1Ts are the BMav units. The only differnce is the PWM isn't active. They are plenty quiet.









~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

36 AP 15s muffle out any pump noise I would have.







I do however hear them when I go into quiet mode, but it's rare that i'm doing so little that my fans flatline. My biggest issue with DDC is their resonance, they make your case hum. I'm using a piece of velcro, with radiator gasket on either side for decoupling, and yet some vibes STILL get to the chassis.


----------



## Ceadderman

I will be mounting mine between the vertical 360s using 2 H pump mount brackets and using the EK antivibration mounting screws that came with the block.









~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I will be mounting mine between the vertical 360s using 2 H pump mount brackets and using the EK antivibration mounting screws that came with the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have the EK bottoms, but removed their standing screws when the XSPC Triple DDC top went pop. Now I really want the Magic Cube tops so that I can get all three running again, but i'm having a hard time justifying the wopping $100 it would cost to get the tops to the house. Mostly due to not feeling like tearing down the system once again. I used my epic willpowers to NOT order them when ordering the Rev 3 XSPC radiator.

oh, and for note... I'm now 4 days into patching up the leaky port on this Alpha*stool* UT60, and still no leaks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starjammer*
> 
> But what about the MCP50x over a D5? I'm not sure if the 50x can be considered a DDC.


The MCP50X isn't a DDC in as far as it is isn't a Laing DDC. It's similar to a DDC in terms of its size and performance characteristics though. These are manufactured by Swiftech and not some OEM re-branded pump.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The MCP50X isn't a DDC in as far as it is isn't a Laing DDC. It's similar to a DDC in terms of its size and performance characteristics though. These are manufactured by Swiftech and not some OEM re-branded pump.


rare MCP350X is... 99% of products are simply rebranded DDC/D5 variants.

Can't wait to see pictures of that rebranded E3 from whats his/her/it's face.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The MCP50X isn't a DDC in as far as it is isn't a Laing DDC. It's similar to a DDC in terms of its size and performance characteristics though. These are manufactured by Swiftech and not some OEM re-branded pump.
> 
> 
> 
> rare MCP350X is... 99% of products are simply rebranded DDC/D5 variants.
> 
> Can't wait to see pictures of that rebranded E3 from whats his/her/it's face.
Click to expand...

http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/industrial-commercial-pumps/e-series-plastic-pumps/

http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/plumbing-solar-pumps/e-series-brass/

The 303 also used to fit D5 tops but I think is EOL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Running dual DDC-1Ts in my EK v2 block and can't say that I've experienced any problems with them I power them through my Sunbeam FC3 controller so that one runs at all times. They are neither loud nor hot when both are run at full speed during Folding/Gaming sessions.
> 
> I cannot for the life of Riley understand how anyone think that a failing o-ring would cause pcb damage. The pump impeller is sealed separately from the pcb workings. About the only way I see that happening is the cover for the pcb wasn't properly seated when installed to the block. I could be wrong but that's how I see it.
> 
> But reality is that either work just fine and as has been pointed out, each have their merits. My DDC setup will run dual GPU, Res, Three 360s, CPU and Mainboard. And will be able to be tucked out of site in the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Neither should you,the DDC is fine in the stock 10w trim,its the boosted 18w models that have the less desirable heat issue.

And,for reference,a single 12v D5 will power thru 7 blocks,3 480's and 9mm bore tube with no drama.

The face oring that seals the 2 halves has to be undamaged and in place correctly,if not then water ingress will almost certainly destroy the pump,D5's do not have this issue as they are 'canned' pumps


----------



## Nichismo

Still need a better camera


----------



## reset1101

Here are some pics of my updated WC. Sorry for the bad quality of some of them but my camera is average and Im very bad at taking photos xD


----------



## skupples

beautiful work, both of you!


----------



## Willi

What are your thoughts about this?


----------



## vicyo

pretty much as useful as a standard fan grill


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> What are your thoughts about this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You might as well get some Silverstone AP fans.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Here are some pics of my updated WC. Sorry for the bad quality of some of them but my camera is average and Im very bad at taking photos xD


you and me both buddy.

Looks great, so I assume that Blood red ekoolant has been working out?


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> beautiful work, both of you!


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> you and me both buddy.
> 
> Looks great, so I assume that Blood red ekoolant has been working out?


Thank you too! Yep, that is EK Blood Red and it works great in my rig!!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> What are your thoughts about this?


That actually works as advertised,but to get real benefits of it they would need to be much longer though.

In the end not visually appealing and i dont think it will really make a performance difference


----------



## Malik

pandora PROJECT ... with AIO so light version of LC system









Intel i7 4790K
Asus Maximus VII Gene
Asus GTX 760 Direct CU Mini
Asus Essence STX II
BitFenix Pandora Black
Bitfenix Spectre 120mm fans
Corsair H105
Kingston HyperX 120GB
Seasonic Platinum 760W


----------



## Leyaena

Looks lovely, Malik!

So, I'll be probably picking up some GPU-only blocks while waiting for the full-cover blocks to release for the 980 Classified.
I had one last question, though, does anyone have experience with the EK Supremacy blocks?

I picked out the blocks (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vga-supremacy-acetal-nickel.html), but I'm not entirely sure they're compatible with the fittings I'm using (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-fitting-10-16mm-g1-4-black.html).

The product page is a little bit confusing when it comes to that information, stating:
*- EK-PSC compression fittings up to size 10mm are supported by this product. Larger EK-PSC series fittings cannot be used!*

But I don't think the EK-PSC fittings even exist anymore?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> What are your thoughts about this?


I Silverstone, makes a way better looking filtered version for 80mm, 120mm, 180mm fans, i have them in my current build, you can find them Here


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I picked out the blocks but I'm not entirely sure they're compatible with the fittings I'm using.
> 
> The product page is a little bit confusing when it comes to that information, stating:
> *- EK-PSC compression fittings up to size 10mm are supported by this product. Larger EK-PSC series fittings cannot be used!*
> 
> But I don't think the EK-PSC fittings even exist anymore?


well the EK page always says they can only assure their blocks will support any fitting sold in their shop. so that would leave one to believe that any fittings sold in the EK shop are all systems go when matched with any ek block. unless specified otherwise and it looks like your fittings arent psc fittings?

but you should really clarify with a member of the EK support team. derickwm is a member on here and I'm sure he can help if you wish to not bother EK.

but imo, your totally fine.


----------



## royce5950

After taking a look at the block your talking about I dont blame you for being confused  lol

Seriously look into it with someone and worst case scenario you could just pick up a little 45 degree angle adapter for one of the 1/4G ports. that way they should fit no doubt. but make sure to do the math with that because for example I'm running 2 xspc right angle adapters in a build and they are huge lol


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Here are some pics of my updated WC. Sorry for the bad quality of some of them but my camera is average and Im very bad at taking photos xD
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


man you goootttta get some orange coolant up in that thang brotha!! the build is very nice! you did a good job and the thing is begging you to make it 100% complete! do it for the sake of the system!! the sysssteeemmmm!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> What are your thoughts about this?


Might as well use a shroud imho. You'll get your fans back far enough to minimize the dead spot and you get better results.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> pandora PROJECT ... with AIO so light version of LC system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intel i7 4790K
> Asus Maximus VII Gene
> Asus GTX 760 Direct CU Mini
> Asus Essence STX II
> BitFenix Pandora Black
> Bitfenix Spectre 120mm fans
> Corsair H105
> Kingston HyperX 120GB
> Seasonic Platinum 760W
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good, other than the position of that 240. Not like you have any option available to you the way that case is designed. No room above the mainboard tray(?) and your HDD array is right next to the Radiator so you can't invert it.









Still all in all it looks really nice.









~Ceadder


----------



## royce5950

I just bought a very lightly used msi xpower z87 for $99.99 free shipping, I wanted it to used with the xspc full cover block 

anyways it was listed that the backplate was missing? what does this mean? does that mean they took off the backplate that sits behind the cpu? my ek block had a backplate that fit just fine with the stock backplate still in place so I cant imagine why it would be removed? thanks in advance if anyone knows.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> man you goootttta get some orange coolant up in that thang brotha!! the build is very nice! you did a good job and the thing is begging you to make it 100% complete! do it for the sake of the system!! the sysssteeemmmm!


Im glad you like it







But I must admit that I didnt mount the rig, a store specialized in WC did. And I just changed liquid to red bood yesterday so no more liquid changing at the moment xD

Besides, I dont like orange as a coolant for me, although it can fit in certain rigs. That liquid will be with me a lot longer than my orange motherboard will xD


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I just bought a very lightly used msi xpower z87 for $99.99 free shipping, I wanted it to used with the xspc full cover block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyways it was listed that the backplate was missing? what does this mean? *does that mean they took off the backplate that sits behind the cpu*? my ek block had a backplate that fit just fine with the stock backplate still in place so I cant imagine why it would be removed? thanks in advance if anyone knows.


Yes that's exactly what that means. Not everyone WCools with EK.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

First acrylic bend. It's not very good... but making two bends so close together is extremely difficult.



I imagine the rest will be easier than this.
Would have been really awesome if waterblock manufacturers had lined up the terminals for the 295x2 and 290x


----------



## lowfat

Bleeding my loop at the moment. First time using a D5 since 2004 when they first came out. my first died after a few months. Anyways I didn't think this new one was actually working until I saw water movement. It is inaudible. I have a pwm model which I think runs at 65% when pwm isn't connected.


----------



## Agenesis

Had a system all planned out for an external rad across the livingroom and now I feel like a complete idiot for not realizing I have to somehow power the fans. I plan on getting one of those cheapo ac adapters to power a dedicated fan controller but is there a more robust way?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Had a system all planned out for an external rad across the livingroom and now I feel like a complete idiot for not realizing I have to somehow power the fans. I plan on getting one of those cheapo ac adapters to power a dedicated fan controller but is there a more robust way?


Use an old psu from a Dell or hp or whatever. Most are good even when they're 25 years old.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Hi, I have a couple of questions.

Would 2x EK-PE 360 be able to handle 1x R9 290X overclocked (probably PT1) and i5-3570K @ around 4,6 Ghz? In that case, which fans should I use with those radiators? Low or high RPM?

The CPU will be phase changed sometimes and sometimes water cooled, so for benching at least it would just be the R9 290X on the 2x EK-PE 360's.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Hi, I have a couple of questions.
> 
> Would 2x EK-PE 360 be able to handle 1x R9 290X overclocked (probably PT1) and i5-3570K @ around 4,6 Ghz? In that case, which fans should I use with those radiators? Low or high RPM?
> 
> The CPU will be phase changed sometimes and sometimes water cooled, so for benching at least it would just be the R9 290X on the 2x EK-PE 360's.


two 360s will be just fine for a 290x and 3570k, fans? Not my strong suit as of recent. Though you should be able to get away with single sided high speed fans, since they're skinny rads. Stick them on a controller & you could go near silent when not crunching away.


----------



## VSG

That's such an open statement. Radiators dissipate heat, so without knowing how much heat the GPU and CPU transfer to the loop at your operating conditions- clocks and volts alike- it is near impossible to say it it can "handle" it. What is handle it for you is also personal- just keep the components a little bit below Tj? How high are you overclocking these components and what defines stability for you?

In general I would still say yes since they are only handling the GPU, and the fans chosen will definitely sway that decision. These rads have 19 FPI splitter fins, so will perform at their optimum with fans providing high airflow through it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> So I wouldn't fry the cards if I just got two EK Supremacy blocks and ran the Classy's at factory speeds until I could get my hands on some full-cover blocks?


I am using a Thermosphere on my 980 Strix. Even with the flow backwards through the block I am stable at 1541Mhz. With the dinky vrm sink, vrm temps are. About 85c. Almost no airflow over the card.

I think the classified is even thicker though so you won't be able to use a Thermosphere.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> two 360s will be just fine for a 290x and 3570k, fans? Not my strong suit as of recent. Though you should be able to get away with single sided high speed fans, since they're skinny rads. Stick them on a controller & you could go near silent when not crunching away.


Yes, I have no real experience with thin radiators, the thinnest radiator I have ever owned is the EK-XT 120 (45 mm) which I used with Corsair SP120 High Pre at 900-1500 rpm. I will do 7V adapters on the fans with the CPU water cooled, with the phase change in the fans could be 2500 rpm for all I care (it would be loud anyway)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's such an open statement. Radiators dissipate heat, so without knowing how much heat the GPU and CPU transfer to the loop at your operating conditions- clocks and volts alike- it is near impossible to say it it can "handle" it. What is handle it for you is also personal- just keep the components a little bit below Tj? How high are you overclocking these components and what defines stability for you?
> 
> In general I would still say yes since they are only handling the GPU, and the fans chosen will definitely sway that decision. These rads have 19 FPI splitter fins, so will perform at their optimum with fans providing high airflow through it.


The R9 290X will go all the way on PT1, probably maximum overclock which I can squeeze out of it, so there will be a lot of heat. I am probably not going to run it at max overclock all the time, but the radiators have to be able to get the heat away from my card efficiently.

As for fans, I could get my hands on Gentle Typhoon AP-30s, but would the 4250 rpm be any good for the PE 360 or is it better options with those fans?

Just for details:

LD Cooling PC-V2 have the Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm fan which is 45,9 dB(A) when the GT AP-30s are 44 dB(A) so as of noise they are actually in, but how would they be on a controller?


----------



## VSG

lol those GT AP-30s would be plenty enough I'd say. You will most likely hit the limits of safe operation and scale up with PT1 BIOS on the 290X before those 2 rads with those fans will be an issue. You can go with slower fans also if those are too loud for you.


----------



## electro2u

Acrylic Fittings question: How tight does the fit need to be? Using Bitspower enhanced multi-link fittings with monsoon acrylic tube and sometimes I can just push the tubing straight into them and then pull it back off without much effort. Sometimes it's tight...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol those GT AP-30s would be plenty enough I'd say. You will most likely hit the limits of safe operation and scale up with PT1 BIOS on the 290X before those 2 rads with those fans will be an issue. You can go with slower fans also if those are too loud for you.


What I meant was pretty much, should I look at thicker radiators for the AP-30s? Seems like they can be controlled down to 10,2 volts, will be using a PWM-splitter to control them probably, nothing fancy.









The downside with the AP30's is that they cost 30 USD each ... I have to look at how thick radiators people put into those LD Cooling PC-V4's ....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Had a system all planned out for an external rad across the livingroom and now I feel like a complete idiot for not realizing I have to somehow power the fans. I plan on getting one of those cheapo ac adapters to power a dedicated fan controller but is there a more robust way?


You can get yourself a cheap PSU and use a jumper. Mount it to your Radiator Base and using only moles to power your bank of fans. Max power you would need is ~100w.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Are those fans voltage controlled or PWM controlled? That statement above was kinda ambiguous.

You can get better performing fans and rads, but as I said I think even average fans on those radiators will likely not be the bottleneck. A 290x scaling on water is limited by ambient temps.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Are those fans voltage controlled or PWM controlled? That statement above was kinda ambiguous.
> 
> You can get better performing fans and rads, but as I said I think even average fans on those radiators will likely not be the bottleneck. A 290x scaling on water is limited by ambient temps.


I suppose, how steady are you in Norwegian?







Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-30

Ambient temperature is 10-13C when my computer is shut off, after gaming with my quadsetup it is about 16-17C.


----------



## electro2u

Monsoon videos don't go over how long the tubing needs to be on anything more than a single bend... I had to do a²+b²=c²... don't like math. It came out right but if it gets any more complicated I'm going back to soft tubing


----------



## lowfat

To measure my bends I use a bunch of scrap tubing plus use the mandrels themselves to make where to make the bend. Using a two dimensional ruler just isn't precise enough.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> What I meant was pretty much, should I look at thicker radiators for the AP-30s? Seems like they can be controlled down to 10,2 volts, will be using a PWM-splitter to control them probably, nothing fancy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The downside with the AP30's is that they cost 30 USD each ... I have to look at how thick radiators people put into those LD Cooling PC-V4's ....


they wont be pwm unless you do the mod. if you make them pwm fans, a minimum 10.2v wont factor in at all.


----------



## Ceadderman

Get yourself a wooden dowel the ID of the compression fitting and cut it 2x @ various lengths and measure from Center to Center of the dowels from one fitting holding a dowel to the other fitting also holding a dowel. Make the dowels the length at the bend. Should make thinks 100x easier.









~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

But that would only work well for people looking to use straight lines & fittings, instead of bends & less fittings.

I would probably go the excessive fittings route if I ever moved to Acrylic, simply because i'm lazy & don't really want to deal with lots of bending.









btw, which reminds me, just for infoz... Is there some sort of equation for like length lost due to bend, or something?


----------



## Ceadderman

It would work the same whether straight or angled. You just have to know the length of the dowel add approximately 3-5mm per bend to the end of the tubing that is to be cut off. It's simpler than you might imagine.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

When you are doing a line that has multiple bends though... Like say 2 45s. with a diagonal between them, the diagonal... how long does it need to be? Oh the math,,,

This is what I've got so far... Have the flu. Totally exhausted. I keep getting little folds and kinks in my tubing, but I just want to make sure I'm on the right track before I redo any of it.


----------



## skupples

Damned uniblocks! Why you give in to the uniblock?!


----------



## electro2u

I liked it. I'm dumb. I don't know.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I liked it. I'm dumb. I don't know.












I probably would have picked it up as well, if it was out when R4BE released, but it wasn't, so I used my trust Supremacy block instead!

sigh, R4BE, Y u only has 2 intel ports







owellz, at least the newest ASUS bios actually supports TRIM without having to mod it in. This mobo will eventually force me into getting a TRIM supporting RAID card since running raid on ASMEDIA controllers either doesn't work, or is pointless... Not sure of the specifics, but its one or the other.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> When you are doing a line that has multiple bends though... Like say 2 45s. with a diagonal between them, the diagonal... how long does it need to be? Oh the math,,,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I've got so far... Have the flu. Totally exhausted. *I keep getting little folds and kinks in my tubing*, but I just want to make sure I'm on the right track before I redo any of it.


It helps to try to 'pull' or 'stretch' ever so gently on the tube around the mandrel or whatever you are using as a form for the bends, instead of just bending it. What you want to try to do is stretch the outside radius of the tube as much or more than you are compressing the inside of the bend, so you don't get those little wrinkles on the inside.


----------



## lowfat

If you are getting kinks you likely aren't heating up a wide enough patch or tubing or you aren't heating the tubing enough. Use low heat and the patch of tubing should be at least the length of the mandrel. So on a 90 degree bend you'll need to heat up about 6" or so. The tubing should be very pliable before taking it to the mandrel. The Monsoon mandrels are very tight any unfortunately not very forgiving. I honestly wish they were made w/ a slightly less aggressive bend.


----------



## electro2u

Hmm thanks guys for the tips, much [email protected]

I think the heat was on too high and I was trying to go too fast. 950F is probably a bit over zealous. Any suggestions for heat gun temp?

I am using the monsoon kit and the mandrels do have pretty tight dimensions... but then again a lot of the bends I need to do are really close quarters. The little crossfire bridge I did by hand.


----------



## lowfat

I use the Monsoon heatgun which only has high and low. I have no idea what temp it runs at. But I say the lower the better. You'll just need to heat up the tubing longer.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Like lowfat said, low heat over a 5 to 6" section of tube all the while doing a consistent slow rotation of the tube. Do not heat one part more than the other. It must be consistently spread so that all of the necessary acrylic is at the same temp.


----------



## wermad

What's the ppcs.com discount codes for the holidays? I can't find a thread or post w/ that info. Making a small purchase on some small items.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's the ppcs.com discount codes for the holidays? I can't find a thread or post w/ that info. Making a small purchase on some small items.


http://us1.campaign-archive2.com/?u=c5d0ca22f571464ad3718ac66&id=721efb8daf
Quote:


> A Special Holiday Greeting to express to you our sincere appreciation for your confidence and loyalty. We are deeply thankful and extend to you our best wishes for a happy and healthy holiday season. Merry Christmas from the staff at Performance-PCs.com. Check below some of the HOT new items in the shop that may be the perfect stocking stuffers!
> 
> Also...a little Christmas greenery savings to help bring in new hardware to your Christmas scenery:
> 
> Spend over $50 get 6% off: "HOLIDAY14-6"
> Spend over $250 get 7% off: "HOLIDAY14-7"
> Spend over $500 get 8% off: "HOLIDAY14-8"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from December 11th through December 18th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## wermad

Thank you sir









Noticed that "OCN" and "OCN55" no longer work


----------



## szeged

ocn 55 worked for me two days ago


----------



## wermad

"Coupon code "OCN55" is not valid."

Maybe they turned it off for the holiday codes. Lame, my order is shy of $50...sigh...looks like i need to add a few more items.


----------



## szeged

i think it might only work on orders above $100 or something because i tried to use it on an order for $25 but it wouldnt work, worked on a $150 order though.


----------



## wermad

hmmm...it use to work for all order amounts. That sucks







. Btw, I'm at the point of pulling my hair using their mobile site


----------



## szeged

im sick of their mobile and desktop site already, they over updated it imo.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im sick of their mobile and desktop site already, they over updated it imo.


I can live with their crappy website. I can't live with the fact that they are charging an arm and an amputated leg for shipping. Even on stuff that can practically be mailed in a regular 'ol envelope. They eliminated all of their reasonable shipping options that they used to have. That, and the OCN55 code doesn't work anymore.

It is FAR cheaper now to order from FrozenCPU anywhere in the USA than PPCs imo for your regular average order of goodies.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> I can live with their crappy website. I can't live with the fact that they are charging an arm and an amputated leg for shipping. Even on stuff that can practically be mailed in a regular 'ol envelope. They eliminated all of their reasonable shipping options that they used to have. That, and the OCN55 code doesn't work anymore.
> 
> It is FAR cheaper now to order from FrozenCPU anywhere in the USA than PPCs imo for your regular average order of goodies.


That's not quite true. it's still cheaper to order from PPC when in-Florida. The only issue? They charge flat rates for shipping. Ordering 2 bottles of Mayhem's X1 = the same price as ordering 3 radiators, $11.

The thing I find most entertaining is that they're now charging something like $3 for Signature on Delivery, when they used to demand signature on delivery before the update.

Either way. I'll take the $11 guaranteed overnight FedEx over the $10 3 - 10 day shipping from FCPU.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Lol you guys have shipping cheap as, come to Aus then order from FrozenCPU or PPCs, decent shipping options for even a single 1/2" barb starts out around $30 (without currency conversion)









PPCs website is crap tho, worse now with there stupid animated christmas background


----------



## wermad

Its funny how small orders cost $20-30 for usps priority. I've shipped a bunch of the medium flat rate boxes so, I'm pretty familiar with what it can hold. It doesn't look like ppcs.com like flat rate and rather charge you more. My small order can actually fit in the priority $5 small flat rate box, yet priority is $18 (







).

$3 discount, I'm might as well go w/ the bare minimum to qualify for First class mail (~$5).

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Lol you guys have shipping cheap as, come to Aus then order from FrozenCPU or PPCs, decent shipping options for even a single 1/2" barb starts out around $30 (without currency conversion)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PPCs website is crap tho, worse now with there stupid animated christmas background


That's because you're overseas. Its typical for these prices. I've shipped quite a few times to other countries and its expensive. Now, from other countries to the US, its expensive, so it goes both ways. Two blocks from EK, Slovenia, its $45 USD. Three, pushes ~$60 USD. For three blocks, its ~$12 from a shop in the US (fcpu.com).


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's not quite true. it's still cheaper to order from PPC when in-Florida. The only issue? They charge flat rates for shipping. Ordering 2 bottles of Mayhem's X1 = the same price as ordering 3 radiators, $11.
> 
> The thing I find most entertaining is that they're now charging something like $3 for Signature on Delivery, when they used to demand signature on delivery before the update.
> 
> Either way. I'll take the $11 guaranteed overnight FedEx over the $10 3 - 10 day shipping from FCPU.


It still boggles me that guaranteed overnight is possible; shipping here in Canada is slow and expensive.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's because you're overseas. Its typical for these prices. I've shipped quite a few times to other countries and its expensive. Now, from other countries to the US, its expensive, so it goes both ways. Two blocks from EK, Slovenia, its $45 USD. Three, pushes ~$60 USD. For three blocks, its ~$12 from a shop in the US (fcpu.com).


Nah its coz its US to Aus, shipping has and probably will always be expensive from US to Aus, I can get 2kg worth of stuff from UK cheaper then US lol


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's not quite true. it's still cheaper to order from PPC when in-Florida. The only issue? They charge flat rates for shipping. Ordering 2 bottles of Mayhem's X1 = the same price as ordering 3 radiators, $11.
> 
> The thing I find most entertaining is that they're now charging something like $3 for Signature on Delivery, when they used to demand signature on delivery before the update.
> 
> Either way. I'll take the $11 guaranteed overnight FedEx over the $10 3 - 10 day shipping from FCPU.


Okay, well Florida might be an exception  (always is one ). But if you are out of Florida, it is cheaper to buy from FCPU than PPCs now, unless the part that you are looking to buy is practically on firesale at PPCs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Nah its coz its US to Aus, shipping has and probably will always be expensive from US to Aus, I can get 2kg worth of stuff from UK cheaper then US lol


Its cheap to ship to US territories overseas as well, no different then UK to Aus. I've shipped to Guam and its as cheap as domestic as long as you're using shipping like Priority. Try the Ek shop and check the price to Aus. $72 AUD for three blocks.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> It still boggles me that guaranteed overnight is possible; shipping here in Canada is slow and expensive.


FedEx has a guarantee of overnight ground when its in-state, if the package departs by like 5PM.

PPC is definitely pocketing money off of their shipping rates.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Okay, well Florida might be an exception
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (always is one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But if you are out of Florida, it is cheaper to buy from FCPU than PPCs now, unless the part that you are looking to buy is practically on firesale at PPCs.


see, and that's sad, as PPC was blowing FCPU out of the water when it came to pricing for over a year straight. They must've caught on, thus tied it into the website overhaul

either way, if people complain enough, they'll revert to somewhere between their old, almost always better than FCPU prices & what they're doing now.


----------



## VSG

Haven't bought anything from PPC in over a month now so haven't noticed the increase in shipping rates. Hopefully it's still similar as before to Texas also, their FedEx/USPS rates were reasonable and always got here in 2 business days.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Haven't bought anything from PPC in over a month now so haven't noticed the increase in shipping rates. Hopefully it's still similar as before to Texas also, their FedEx/USPS rates were reasonable and always got here in 2 business days.


The only change I've noticed is them *charging* for signature on delivery. Their lowest FedEx rate is the same price it always was ~$11.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> It still boggles me that guaranteed overnight is possible; shipping here in Canada is slow and expensive.


its because americans are an "i want it all and i want it yesterday!" society.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> its because americans are an "i want it all and i want it yesterday!" society.


damn straight, with a SCAR in the left hand and an IPA in the right hand.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I just bought a very lightly used msi xpower z87 for $99.99 free shipping, I wanted it to used with the xspc full cover block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyways it was listed that the backplate was missing? what does this mean? *does that mean they took off the backplate that sits behind the cpu*? my ek block had a backplate that fit just fine with the stock backplate still in place so I cant imagine why it would be removed? thanks in advance if anyone knows.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that's exactly what that means. Not everyone WCools with EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I was also just thinking that if the person isnt very computer literate and they didnt know that the rear panel was called an I/O panel he or she may have just called it a backplate? not knowing what a backplate actually is. But I'll have to wait and see. I am wondering this now because its sold by an ebay reseller and not a computer enthusiast. but all the pics check out





I'm excited. My first time running a full board block!!

Just copped this and a 750d



yippie! lol


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> its because americans are an "i want it all and i want it yesterday!" society.


haha i had a good laugh at this


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> haha i had a good laugh at this


He just has issues admitting that this conforms to all western societies, the US just has better shipping infrastructure than others, so we get it quicker & cheaper.









Sadly, the drive for VAT type systems & doubling min-wage will destroy that rather quickly.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> He just has issues admitting that this conforms to all western societies, the US just has better shipping infrastructure than others, so we get it quicker & cheaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, the drive for VAT type systems & doubling min-wage will destroy that rather quickly.


i'd love to know why the population wants a higher minimum wage, it's like they don't know basic economics

but this is a watercooling thread and not a politics thread i'm way off topic


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> FedEx has a guarantee of overnight ground when its in-state, if the package departs by like 5PM.
> 
> PPC is definitely pocketing money off of their shipping rates.
> see, and that's sad, as PPC was blowing FCPU out of the water when it came to pricing for over a year straight. They must've caught on, thus tied it into the website overhaul
> 
> either way, if people complain enough, they'll revert to somewhere between their old, almost always better than FCPU prices & what they're doing now.


I love to use FCPU for small, light orders. Missing a fitting or two? Can get First Class Shipping for $4 dollars under 13 oz. It says 6-12 days for some reason, but it gets to TX in 2-3 days every time for me. I just did a comparison on a $180ish order between the 2 sites. #1 there were some items I couldn't get at performance pcs. Leaving those items off, which were 10$ all together, Frozen CPU with OCN55 code beat PPCS by 4 dollars, even taking the 6% Holiday code.

Frozen CPU answers the phone and makes changes to orders if you can catch them. They've fixed a screwup they made and paid for return shipping on an item they forgot to sleeve for me. I shop both sites but I prefer FCPU.


----------



## skupples

I haven't used FCPU in quite some time, mostly due to their prices slowly creeping up. They do however tend to stock more obscure fittings than PPC, but the PPC site overhaul just might push me back to waiting the 3-5 days for FCPU orders.

@phillyd tell your people that we don't like the new webiste, or the changes to pricing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> i'd love to know why the population wants a higher minimum wage, it's like they don't know basic economics
> 
> but this is a watercooling thread and not a politics thread i'm way off topic


Because the Service Workers International Union has done an amazing job @ brainwashing the ignorant masses that never finished even their first year in highschool. Short term benefits, blah blah, inflation, blah blah, back into the same situation within a few years, blah blah.


----------



## electro2u

I'm really nervous about the seals with these bitspower enhanced multilink fittings. It seems really unnatural to be able to just push the tubing into the fitting coming from the agony that is soft tubing compression fittings. Of course, it makes actually installing the tubing much more straight forward.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Is there any problems with running 2 pumps in series at different speeds?


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm really nervous about the seals with these bitspower enhanced multilink fittings. It seems really unnatural to be able to just push the tubing into the fitting coming from the agony that is soft tubing compression fittings. Of course, it makes actually installing the tubing much more straight forward.


On the same boat as you haha!

G'luck!


----------



## roniebravo

Hi, a little question:

which cases can accommodate a 480 & 240 thick radiator (xspc rx v3) aside from the enthoo primo, corsair 900d and any caselabs?

thanks


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is there any problems with running 2 pumps in series at different speeds?


Yes, the slower pump will burn out due to coolant being either forced through it faster than its operating or sucked through it faster than it wants to turn. Pumps in series should always have matched rpm's (or similar output volume) imo.


----------



## lowfat

I am pretty sure Martin did some testing where 2 different pumps worked perfectly fine together.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Yes, the slower pump will burn out due to coolant being either forced through it faster than its operating or sucked through it faster than it wants to turn. Pumps in series should always have matched rpm's (or similar output volume) imo.


How can it burn out? The impeller is free spinning and all the pump "motor" does is cause an electromagnetic field. There is no mechanical connection between the water flow and the electricity flow.

_Edit: obviously if the impeller was stopped entirely then it could heat up and burn out, but just being a bit slower shouldn't cause that. How otherwise could you run loops with different restriction?_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I am pretty sure Martin did some testing where 2 different pumps worked perfectly fine together.


I remember a discussion on this before and the concern was that if the first pump is slower than the second pump you might get some cavitation.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> When you are doing a line that has multiple bends though... Like say 2 45s. with a diagonal between them, the diagonal... how long does it need to be? Oh the math,,,
> 
> This is what I've got so far... Have the flu. Totally exhausted. I keep getting little folds and kinks in my tubing, but I just want to make sure I'm on the right track before I redo any of it.


If your getting folds/wrinkles its because the tubing was to cool when it was bent. EIther you took to long bending it into position giving it time to cool off or it needed more heat to begin with. The tubing should literally start to fall on itself before you take it away from the heat.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I haven't used FCPU in quite some time, mostly due to their prices slowly creeping up. They do however tend to stock more obscure fittings than PPC, but the PPC site overhaul just might push me back to waiting the 3-5 days for FCPU orders.
> 
> @phillyd tell your people that we don't like the new webiste, or the changes to pricing.
> Because the Service Workers International Union has done an amazing job @ brainwashing the ignorant masses that never finished even their first year in high school. Short term benefits, blah blah, inflation, blah blah, back into the same situation within a few years, blah blah.


Makes you wonder the reasoning by making an 18 year old working at Mcdonalds getting almost the same pay as your average school teacher that went to college for 4 years. Oh America where has the common sense gone. (Sorry for the OT)

OH and second that phillyd

New site is slow and cumbersome. shipping charges and ocn55 code intermittently not working is an annoyance as well.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> OH and second that phillyd
> 
> New site is slow and cumbersome. shipping charges and ocn55 code intermittently not working is an annoyance as well.


I third that. Don't like the new site at all. Haven't liked it from day one. Hard to navigate IMO. I've resorted to FCPU, whether I'm actually looking to make a purchase of my own or helping someone else look for parts.
At the very least, I think they need to add the option to use the "Classic Site" like PayPal with their new site layout.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roniebravo*
> 
> Hi, a little question:
> 
> which cases can accommodate a 480 & 240 thick radiator (xspc rx v3) aside from the enthoo primo, corsair 900d and any caselabs?
> 
> thanks


LD Cooling PC-V8 could take 3x 60-65 mm thick 480 radiators. <-- Normal orientated

The reversed version could take Monsta 480 in the top with fans, and two thinner radiators in the bottom (60-65 mm as a maximum).

The case is 65 cm deep and 21 cm wide, if that helps anything.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

How thick of a radiator can I fit in a corsair 250D? Any one with experience in this case for watercooling?

Probably Will build a work pc and want to show off some hard work.

The Cautious One

EDIT: Would yall recommend a EK Coolstream 240mm.. I think the Thickness is 36mm? I could be wrong.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is there any problems with running 2 pumps in series at different speeds?


Seems like they would fight with each other.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How thick of a radiator can I fit in a corsair 250D? Any one with experience in this case for watercooling?
> 
> Probably Will build a work pc and want to show off some hard work.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> EDIT: Would yall recommend a EK Coolstream 240mm.. I think the Thickness is 36mm? I could be wrong.


\

Nothing thicker than the Corsair H100i, H60 or H75, and with the H100i it's a really tight fit.
It's not a super water cooling friendly case from my experience.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I am pretty sure Martin did some testing where 2 different pumps worked perfectly fine together.


Yep.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/26/pump-setup-series-vs-parallel/2/

Martin concluded that "_running multiple pumps in one loop ... does NOT have to be the same pump. A modified DDC-1 and PMP-450(D5 Vario) work together very happily together_"

I've been running two D5s on one of my loops for several months now. One is a Vario on speed 3 and the other is an Aquacomputer w/ USB that the speed varies based on loop temps and I've had no issues. For what it's worth they are not placed one right after the other in the loop. There's a rad in between them if mostly just because where I have them mounted that made for the cleanest/simplest tube routing. The vario is part of a Photon res / D5 pump combo and the AQ D5 is mounted out of the way in the back side of the case.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> \
> 
> Nothing thicker than the Corsair H100i, H60 or H75, and with the H100i it's a really tight fit.
> It's not a super water cooling friendly case from my experience.


I wouldnt use an H100i. So your saying the thickness of around 30mm. And no more than a 240mm Max sizewize.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## electro2u

Well... given that no one has responded to my concerns over seals with enhance multi-link fittings and the fact that I haven't been as careful with deburring as I probably should have been... I've ordered a bunch of replacement multilink orings just in case. Also ordered some crystal link tubing to compare it with the monsoon tubing. Soon I'm going to be putting a whole bunch of fittings and junk up for sale in the marketplace. Bunch of unused bitspower fittings and some scratched/used ones as well.

Does anyone have any advice about milti-link enhanced fittings?? Can they be refit multiple times if the tubing is really well deburred? I was inspecting one of my fittings after removing a tube I test fit in it and I'm pretty sure both the orings were damaged but it's a little hard to tell.


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> Nothing thicker than the Corsair H100i, H60 or H75, and with the H100i it's a really tight fit.
> It's not a super water cooling friendly case from my experience.


It is funny how some Corsair cases don't play well with Corsair AIO's. In my SPEC-03, I could fit an H100 but couldn't run push-pull. My H70 in push-pull blocked one of the other fan mounting spots.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Well... given that no one has responded to my concerns over seals with enhance multi-link fittings and the fact that I haven't been as careful with deburring as I probably should have been... I've ordered a bunch of replacement multilink orings just in case. Also ordered some crystal link tubing to compare it with the monsoon tubing. Soon I'm going to be putting a whole bunch of fittings and junk up for sale in the marketplace. Bunch of unused bitspower fittings and some scratched/used ones as well.
> 
> Does anyone have any advice about milti-link enhanced fittings?? Can they be refit multiple times if the tubing is really well deburred? I was inspecting one of my fittings after removing a tube I test fit in it and I'm pretty sure both the orings were damaged but it's a little hard to tell.


I thought about responding to you post but the way you asked it made it hard to respond to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm really nervous about the seals with these bitspower enhanced multilink fittings. It seems really unnatural to be able to just push the tubing into the fitting coming from the agony that is soft tubing compression fittings. Of course, it makes actually installing the tubing much more straight forward.


Older Bitspower crystal link fittings like the C47 were push-fit fittings and I don't recall that anyone ever really had issues with them. I've had a few in use for about a year now with no problems. Their newer Enhanced Multi Link fittings have a screw on ring that looks to me to combine both a push fit and compression fitting design. I haven't had my hands on any of them yet but I didn't think you are supposed to just push the tube into the EML fitting like you would with a C47.

EDIT:

Bitspower Enhance Multi Link fittings
http://themodzoo.com/forum/page/articles.html/_/reviews/water-cooling/bitspower-enhance-multi-link-fittings-r102?pg=2


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I can't bothered to list the offenders but please,no more shipping posts.
As for the pumps,these are hi bypass pumps,you could have one on the series switched off and it would make very little difference to the running one,why there is comments about burning pumps out baffles me...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Well... given that no one has responded to my concerns over seals with enhance multi-link fittings and the fact that I haven't been as careful with deburring as I probably should have been... I've ordered a bunch of replacement multilink orings just in case. Also ordered some crystal link tubing to compare it with the monsoon tubing. Soon I'm going to be putting a whole bunch of fittings and junk up for sale in the marketplace. Bunch of unused bitspower fittings and some scratched/used ones as well.
> 
> Does anyone have any advice about milti-link enhanced fittings?? Can they be refit multiple times if the tubing is really well deburred? I was inspecting one of my fittings after removing a tube I test fit in it and I'm pretty sure both the orings were damaged but it's a little hard to tell.


They should be tight fit in to the multi-link fitting. If you do the deburring correctly (I use the deburring tool http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21932/ex-tub-2299/Hard_Tubing_Internal_and_External_Reamer_Deburring_Tool.html ) and also use a small sand on the end you should not bite on the o-rings. That was not my experience with these other ones (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21932/ex-tub-2299/Hard_Tubing_Internal_and_External_Reamer_Deburring_Tool.html) where they often bite the o-rings unless you use a dab of slilicon grease (and even then often bite the o-ring). I guess I never got the hang of using those double 90 degrees adapters not sure if other users had the same experience. It does help to wet with water the tube and the fittings (and so the o-rings) before inserting the tube. I use ek tube and some pieces of bitspower tube (both are 12 mm OD) with the multi-link fittings. The only way for the tube to go in and out easily is to apply silicon grease on it. I prefer to use the water method since the tube don´t go in that easily but also does not go out that easily...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> They should be tight fit in to the multi-link fitting. If you do the deburring correctly (I use the deburring tool http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21932/ex-tub-2299/Hard_Tubing_Internal_and_External_Reamer_Deburring_Tool.html ) and also use a small sand on the end you should not bite on the o-rings. That was not my experience with these other ones (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21932/ex-tub-2299/Hard_Tubing_Internal_and_External_Reamer_Deburring_Tool.html) where they often bite the o-rings unless you use a dab of slilicon grease (and even then often bite the o-ring). I guess I never got the hang of using those double 90 degrees adapters not sure if other users had the same experience. It does help to wet with water the tube and the fittings (and so the o-rings) before inserting the tube. I use ek tube and some pieces of bitspower tube (both are 12 mm OD) with the multi-link fittings. The only way for the tube to go in and out easily is to apply silicon grease on it. I prefer to use the water method since the tube don´t go in that easily but also does not go out that easily...


Awesome post, tons of info I was wondering about. Thanks for taking the time. I'm always an anxious one but this acrylic business has me biting my nails.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I thought about responding to you post but the way you asked it made it hard to respond to.
> Older Bitspower crystal link fittings like the C47 were push-fit fittings and I don't recall that anyone ever really had issues with them. I've had a few in use for about a year now with no problems. Their newer Enhanced Multi Link fittings have a screw on ring that looks to me to combine both a push fit and compression fitting design. I haven't had my hands on any of them yet but I didn't think you are supposed to just push the tube into the EML fitting like you would with a C47.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Bitspower Enhance Multi Link fittings
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/page/articles.html/_/reviews/water-cooling/bitspower-enhance-multi-link-fittings-r102?pg=2


I should be more specific in my questions, definitely.

I think it looks like if I just have the compression ring and the second oring on the end of the tube I can still use push in technique for getting it onto the base of the fitting. It's really a big issue because if you can't have the base screwed into the block or whatever... well you guys understand not wanting to have to resort to using rotaries. Annoying and just plain painful.


----------



## roniebravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> LD Cooling PC-V8 could take 3x 60-65 mm thick 480 radiators. <-- Normal orientated
> 
> The reversed version could take Monsta 480 in the top with fans, and two thinner radiators in the bottom (60-65 mm as a maximum).
> 
> The case is 65 cm deep and 21 cm wide, if that helps anything.


thank you, sure that helps but LD cases are very huge and expensive








I was looking for something with Lian li or fractal style, enthoo primo fits perfect but i do not like its looks so much


----------



## lowfat

After 2.5 years I am proud so say I have finally finished _Big Lian Li_. Link in sig has many more pics.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> After 2.5 years I am proud so say I have finally finished _Big Lian Li_. Link in sig has many more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










dat tubing sleeving


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I wouldnt use an H100i. So your saying the thickness of around 30mm. And no more than a 240mm Max sizewize.
> 
> The Cautious ONe


well you also have to think about the barbs or fittings, i know there's not a lot of space for them above the rear IO, depending on spacing. and placing them at the front will likely cause clearance issues for a front fan/radiator if that is also part of the plan.
though i suspect you can get a 30mm 240 on the side and a 60mm 120/140 in the front and if you go with hard tubing or a narrow enough soft tubing, you should be fine.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> well you also have to think about the barbs or fittings, i know there's not a lot of space for them above the rear IO, depending on spacing. and placing them at the front will likely cause clearance issues for a front fan/radiator if that is also part of the plan.
> though i suspect you can get a 30mm 240 on the side and a 60mm 120/140 in the front and if you go with hard tubing or a narrow enough soft tubing, you should be fine.


Something Like this


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roniebravo*
> 
> thank you, sure that helps but LD cases are very huge and expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking for something with Lian li or fractal style, enthoo primo fits perfect but i do not like its looks so much


This is not expensive!









The LD Cooling PC-V8 has really grown on me, used to not like it at all. The big difference in the PC-V8 and (for example) the 900D is the weight and build quality (which is like day and night with those two cases), the size is pretty much the same of those two.







I had the 900D for 9 days before I returned it and that case is more expensive than the PC-V8. As of popularity, the 900D is so much used (like M-Tech styling on BMW's), it looks okay, but it gets boring because you have seen it a thousand times before (this is the "most of" 900D cases). The LD Cooling PC-V8 on the other hand is not used by pretty much everyone that is doing 4-way SLI/CFX and water cooling. *This is my personal opinion on the 900D, I do not mean to offend anyone owning that case.*







Most part of people do not buy LD Cooling, Mountain Mods and CaseLabs cases.









For me the choice was easy when I saw the pricetag at 299 USD, I bought it instantly.







It is big and have a lot of room, it might be too big for a lot of people, but nevertheless it is a great case.


----------



## wermad

When LD started out, it was ~$700 USD (ouch). My biggest gripe is that it had very little space for cable, things were very tight, especially for rads. I kept asking the guy (forgot his name) for more and more specs and eventually he stopped responding. I kept my 800D and eventually went with a MM for the huge space. CL does offer the best of these custom aluminum case imho after owning the TH10 and STH10.

If you want ultra rare exclusivity, a level 10 or a Canyon695/pcx2000 is your ticket. Otherwise, make it your own, who cares if there's a few of them out there already. BNeg's LD is a beaut too









Found my blocks, will have water on the 2nd Hawaii this weekned


----------



## Gabrielzm

Beautiful @Lowfat, as usual mate







The attention to cables is just amazing mate.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *roniebravo*
> 
> thank you, sure that helps but LD cases are very huge and expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking for something with Lian li or fractal style, enthoo primo fits perfect but i do not like its looks so much
> 
> 
> 
> This is not expensive!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The LD Cooling PC-V8 has really grown on me, used to not like it at all. The big difference in the PC-V8 and (for example) the 900D is the weight and build quality (which is like day and night with those two cases), the size is pretty much the same of those two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the 900D for 9 days before I returned it and that case is more expensive than the PC-V8. As of popularity, the 900D is so much used (like M-Tech styling on BMW's), it looks okay, but it gets boring because you have seen it a thousand times before (this is the "most of" 900D cases). The LD Cooling PC-V8 on the other hand is not used by pretty much everyone that is doing 4-way SLI/CFX and water cooling. *This is my personal opinion on the 900D, I do not mean to offend anyone owning that case.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most part of people do not buy LD Cooling, Mountain Mods and CaseLabs cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me the choice was easy when I saw the pricetag at 299 USD, I bought it instantly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is big and have a lot of room, it might be too big for a lot of people, but nevertheless it is a great case.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> When LD started out, it was ~$700 USD (ouch). My biggest gripe is that it had very little space for cable, things were very tight, especially for rads. I kept asking the guy (forgot his name) for more and more specs and eventually he stopped responding. I kept my 800D and eventually went with a MM for the huge space. CL does offer the best of these custom aluminum case imho after owning the TH10 and STH10.
> 
> If you want ultra rare exclusivity, a level 10 or a Canyon695/pcx2000 is your ticket. Otherwise, make it your own, who cares if there's a few of them out there already. *BNeg's LD is a beaut too*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found my blocks, will have water on the 2nd Hawaii this weekned


Just for you,I will wheel out the old girl again...


----------



## wermad




----------



## electro2u

Is there any informational benefit to using more than one flow meter in a single loop?
I'm assuming on a controller like the Aquaero the ability to connect more than one FM would be if you had a dual loop system.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Is there any informational benefit to using more than one flow meter in a single loop?
> I'm assuming on a controller like the Aquaero the ability to connect more than one FM would be if you had a dual loop system.


zero. readings should be the same if both readers are in the same loop (calibration issue aside). It might also be useful in more complex loops where parallel and serial are been mixed.


----------



## nismoskyline

@lowfat, it's gorgeous, well done sir


----------



## roniebravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> This is not expensive!


yeah thats a very nice breaking deal... but I live out of the States... import fees are so strong
If I have to choose a imported case I'd go for a caselabs without any doubt (specially cause two tone options)

ps: awesome build @Bnegative!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can't bothered to list the offenders but please,no more shipping posts.
> As for the pumps,these are hi bypass pumps,you could have one on the series switched off and it would make very little difference to the running one,why there is comments about burning pumps out baffles me...


I do this all the time when bleeding, run just a single pump, slowly ramp up its speed, then eventually turn the second pump on, with matching speeds.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roniebravo*
> 
> yeah thats a very nice breaking deal... but I live out of the States... import fees are so strong
> If I have to choose a imported case I'd go for a caselabs without any doubt (specially cause two tone options)
> 
> ps: awesome build @Bnegative!


Same here. Importing fees usually dictate how much I can dump on a build. I'm one of the luckiest people to be able to afford an 800D here. A 900D is the equivalent of 700USD where I live.
I can only dream of a CaseLabs or LittleDevil. You can't even find Silverstone or LianLi products in my country, even worse with the rarer ones like InWin or custom-made cases...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Same here. Importing fees usually dictate how much I can dump on a build. I'm one of the luckiest people to be able to afford an 800D here. A 900D is the equivalent of 700USD where I live.
> I can only dream of a CaseLabs or LittleDevil. You can't even find Silverstone or LianLi products in my country, even worse with the rarer ones like InWin or custom-made cases...


Not sure you heard about them but some of those you can find at waz mate:

http://www.waz.com.br/componente/gabinete/gabinete.html?marca=4711

It is the only store however in the country to carry it either Silverstone or LianLi. As to the WC gear they carry is actually more expensive that do the direct import from a store in US or Europe....


----------



## electro2u

This is dangerously close to a shipping conversation


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> After 2.5 years I am proud so say I have finally finished _Big Lian Li_. Link in sig has many more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Simply awesome...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *roniebravo*
> 
> thank you, sure that helps but LD cases are very huge and expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking for something with Lian li or fractal style, enthoo primo fits perfect but i do not like its looks so much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not expensive!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The LD Cooling PC-V8 has really grown on me, used to not like it at all. The big difference in the PC-V8 and (for example) the 900D is the weight and build quality (which is like day and night with those two cases), the size is pretty much the same of those two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the 900D for 9 days before I returned it and that case is more expensive than the PC-V8. As of popularity, the 900D is so much used (like M-Tech styling on BMW's), it looks okay, but it gets boring because you have seen it a thousand times before (this is the "most of" 900D cases). The LD Cooling PC-V8 on the other hand is not used by pretty much everyone that is doing 4-way SLI/CFX and water cooling. *This is my personal opinion on the 900D, I do not mean to offend anyone owning that case.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most part of people do not buy LD Cooling, Mountain Mods and CaseLabs cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me the choice was easy when I saw the pricetag at 299 USD, I bought it instantly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is big and have a lot of room, it might be too big for a lot of people, but nevertheless it is a great case.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> When LD started out, it was ~$700 USD (ouch). My biggest gripe is that it had very little space for cable, things were very tight, especially for rads. I kept asking the guy (forgot his name) for more and more specs and eventually he stopped responding. I kept my 800D and eventually went with a MM for the huge space. CL does offer the best of these custom aluminum case imho after owning the TH10 and STH10.
> 
> If you want ultra rare exclusivity, a level 10 or a Canyon695/pcx2000 is your ticket. Otherwise, make it your own, who cares if there's a few of them out there already. *BNeg's LD is a beaut too*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found my blocks, will have water on the 2nd Hawaii this weekned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for you,I will wheel out the old girl again...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Always loved that build when you posted your eye catching pics.









Were you the person that posted the InWin D pics? If so I've some questions.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Think he has a sff build using the mini d-frame. Links on his sig.


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone could help me out! My tubing appears to be really cloudy (primochill lrt)... and it's brand new :/ But i'm certain the water itself is fine cause its completely clear in the blocks and in the res. Has anyone faced this problem? Should I attempt to clean all the tubes?:/



Thanks!


----------



## lowfat

Thanks for the comments everyone









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I was wondering if anyone could help me out! My tubing appears to be really cloudy (primochill lrt)... and it's brand new :/ But i'm certain the water itself is fine cause its completely clear in the blocks and in the res. Has anyone faced this problem? Should I attempt to clean all the tubes?:/
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Unfortunately not much you can do. Plasticizers are leeching out of the tubing. This happens to pretty much every tubing. Running w/ a lower water temperatures can slow/prevent it. But otherwise not much. You can pull the tubing and use a bottle/pipe brush to clean the tubing. Then reuse it. It should stay clearer longer. Honestly the only way to really get clear tubing that lasts forever is by using acrylic.


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks for the comments everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately not much you can do. Plasticizers are leeching out of the tubing. This happens to pretty much every tubing. Running w/ a lower water temperatures can slow/prevent it. But otherwise not much. You can pull the tubing and use a bottle/pipe brush to clean the tubing. Then reuse it. It should stay clearer longer. Honestly the only way to really get clear tubing that lasts forever is by using acrylic.


Hey lowfat!

But... the tubing is brand new!! it shouldn't be looking this way so quickly right? :/


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Hey lowfat!
> 
> But... the tubing is brand new!! it shouldn't be looking this way so quickly right? :/


How old? If you are running w/ warmer water temperature it could happen after a few days.


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How old? If you are running w/ warmer water temperature it could happen after a few days.


...24 hrs old O_O


----------



## Ceadderman

What temp. Is your average & what're You cooling?

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I was wondering if anyone could help me out! My tubing appears to be really cloudy (primochill lrt)... and it's brand new :/ But i'm certain the water itself is fine cause its completely clear in the blocks and in the res. Has anyone faced this problem? Should I attempt to clean all the tubes?:/
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Looks like you may have ordered the old LRT. You need the new "Advanced LRT" "Crystal Clear". These are the ones that replaced the old stuff that was prone to the plasticize.


----------



## Ceadderman

Check the Plasticizer thread. Cuz even advanced suffers from leeching.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

I think Lowfat nailed it. I had Adv. LRT tubing and I was running water temps in the 50s (C) sometimes because don't have enough rad space and it caused clouding within a week.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Lol you guys have shipping cheap as, come to Aus then order from FrozenCPU or PPCs, decent shipping options for even a single 1/2" barb starts out around $30 (without currency conversion)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PPCs website is crap tho, worse now with there stupid animated christmas background


That isn't totally true. For small items it is actually cheaper for me to order from frozen pc than locally. I bought an ek replacement res tube and a couple off fittings and paid 7 bucks shipping .. local shipping would have been at least 12.

7 bucks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Hi, I have a couple of questions.
> 
> Would 2x EK-PE 360 be able to handle 1x R9 290X overclocked (probably PT1) and i5-3570K @ around 4,6 Ghz? In that case, which fans should I use with those radiators? Low or high RPM?
> 
> The CPU will be phase changed sometimes and sometimes water cooled, so for benching at least it would just be the R9 290X on the 2x EK-PE 360's.


Man, some really OTT fan recommendations going around.
I cool a whole heavily overclocked
System on a 240 + 360 PE and with less than 1500 rpm fans it works great. A 290x could be cooled very well with mid speed fans on twin 360's


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That isn't totally true. For small items it is actually cheaper for me to order from frozen pc than locally. I bought an ek replacement res tube and a couple off fittings and paid 7 bucks shipping .. local shipping would have been at least 12.


Must be where you are, costs me heaps to order most things









In other news I finally got all my parts







, gonna try putting her back together tomorrow


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Check the Plasticizer thread. Cuz even advanced suffers from leeching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yup, kNow that. I was part first few protesting the clouding. It was happening to a lot of different tubes.


----------



## MURDoctrine

I must be lucky with my advanced LRT. I have some of the blue translucent one and it honestly hasn't clouded much if any. Well nothing like any other tubing I've had at least. The worst I've had though was the XSPC UV Blue Clear. Looks amazing under UV but leeched insanely fast.

Also the lian li looks amazing lowfat.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not sure you heard about them but some of those you can find at waz mate:
> 
> http://www.waz.com.br/componente/gabinete/gabinete.html?marca=4711
> 
> It is the only store however in the country to carry it either Silverstone or LianLi. As to the WC gear they carry is actually more expensive that do the direct import from a store in US or Europe....


The sad thing about Waz is that they carry only old, dated models, I`ve never seen a TJ11 or a Lian Li focused on watercooling for sale there. The worse part is that its so overpriced that you are forced to stick with brands that have official importers or partners.
Yeah, I wish my 800D was a bit lighter and with better watercooling support. I wish I could purchase a radiator and waterblock at decent prices, but in the end, I'll use what I got and mod it to my needs. I'm in the process of modding the 800D to fit a 240 rad in the bottom and bending acrilic for the piping. I just wish we had access to better hardware at competitive prices.

And lowfat
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> After 2.5 years I am proud so say I have finally finished _Big Lian Li_. Link in sig has many more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is a work of art.
And that cabling, where did you get those brackets, how did you make those gorgeous turns and on a scale of 1 to 10, how hard it really was to get that beautiful, clean look?
I am so scared of messing with my AX860i cabling that I gave up on sleeving it. The cables don`t follow the same plug pattern on both ends and I'm scared to death to wire something wrong and kill something.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> And lowfat
> This is a work of art.
> And that cabling, where did you get those brackets, how did you make those gorgeous turns and on a scale of 1 to 10, how hard it really was to get that beautiful, clean look?
> I am so scared of messing with my AX860i cabling that I gave up on sleeving it. The cables don`t follow the same plug pattern on both ends and I'm scared to death to wire something wrong and kill something.


The brackets I made myself. Cut them out of aluminum by hand w/ a nibbler. The cabling is a lot of work obviously otherwise other people would do similar. It was all done inside the case. Lots of time training the cables. But even more time making sure they are the exact proper lengths. I would guess it took me about 100 hours to do just the cabling.

Yes your power supply would be harder to do since the cables are not 1:1. But it could still be possible. On the backside of my build you can see how I managed where cables crossover.

If anyone looks at reddit you can see my rig on the front page right now.


----------



## royce5950

James had his parvum "titanfall" build featured in this months maximum pc if anyone missed it. Congratulations!


----------



## Alex132

Is it normal for a loop with 3 radiators (360+240+120), 2 reservoirs (150ml Phobya cyl res + xspc bay-res/pump), 2 blocks (7990+raystorm cpu block) and the D5 pump in the bayres to takes more than 3 days to bleed?

So far it's been 3 days, on-off for hours on end of toggling between 1-5 speed, tilting the case, turning on and off and whatnot - it barely sounds better than it did at the start.

https://soundcloud.com/kitten/meh

^After 2 days of bleeding the loop


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is it normal for a loop with 3 radiators (360+240+120), 2 reservoirs (150ml Phobya cyl res + xspc bay-res/pump), 2 blocks (7990+raystorm cpu block) and the D5 pump in the bayres to takes more than 3 days to bleed?
> 
> So far it's been 3 days, on-off for hours on end of toggling between 1-5 speed, tilting the case, turning on and off and whatnot - it barely sounds better than it did at the start.
> 
> https://soundcloud.com/kitten/meh
> 
> ^After 2 days of bleeding the loop


That does sound like there is something not right.

Sorry for the simple question, but you don't mention how much water you have added since turning it on, when you bled did you leave a res top off and continue to add water?...


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is it normal for a loop with 3 radiators (360+240+120), 2 reservoirs (150ml Phobya cyl res + xspc bay-res/pump), 2 blocks (7990+raystorm cpu block) and the D5 pump in the bayres to takes more than 3 days to bleed?
> 
> So far it's been 3 days, on-off for hours on end of toggling between 1-5 speed, tilting the case, turning on and off and whatnot - it barely sounds better than it did at the start.
> 
> https://soundcloud.com/kitten/meh
> 
> ^After 2 days of bleeding the loop
> 
> 
> 
> That does sound like there is something not right.
> 
> Sorry for the simple question, but you don't mention how much water you have added since turning it on, when you bled did you leave a res top off and continue to add water?...
Click to expand...

Continued to add water, and left the fill port(s) on.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Continued to add water, and left the fill port(s) on.


Leaving the fill-ports off can assist with bleeding because it relieves pressure in the loop and allows the trapped air to escape.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Continued to add water, and left the fill port(s) on.
> 
> 
> 
> Leaving the fill-ports off can assist with bleeding because it relieves pressure in the loop and allows the trapped air to escape.
Click to expand...

Thanks, trying that now.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is it normal for a loop with 3 radiators (360+240+120), 2 reservoirs (150ml Phobya cyl res + xspc bay-res/pump), 2 blocks (7990+raystorm cpu block) and the D5 pump in the bayres to takes more than 3 days to bleed?
> 
> So far it's been 3 days, on-off for hours on end of toggling between 1-5 speed, tilting the case, turning on and off and whatnot - it barely sounds better than it did at the start.
> 
> https://soundcloud.com/kitten/meh
> 
> ^After 2 days of bleeding the loop


Why are you asking questions for someone else's system?

The build is not ideal, in any way shape or form, the system is probably re-gulping tons of air due to the dual res, with pump mated bay res setup.

I've also seen bay reservoirs gulp air when the pump speed is too high for the size of the reservoir. Great example of this is the Swiftech Maelstrom V1.0

Like I told Fey when he/she/it asked in OMPT, if there's a leak, then air could be slowly adding back into the system as the leak drips.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is it normal for a loop with 3 radiators (360+240+120), 2 reservoirs (150ml Phobya cyl res + xspc bay-res/pump), 2 blocks (7990+raystorm cpu block) and the D5 pump in the bayres to takes more than 3 days to bleed?
> 
> So far it's been 3 days, on-off for hours on end of toggling between 1-5 speed, tilting the case, turning on and off and whatnot - it barely sounds better than it did at the start.
> 
> https://soundcloud.com/kitten/meh
> 
> ^After 2 days of bleeding the loop


Omg, that sounds horrible.
Sure, I only did a water loop twice... but the sound was nowhere near that.

You sure there isn't something clogged there?
Did you flush everything?

Is it a new loop?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Why are you asking questions for someone else's system?
> 
> The build is not ideal, in any way shape or form, the system is probably re-gulping tons of air due to the dual res, with pump mated bay res setup.
> 
> I've also seen bay reservoirs gulp air when the pump speed is too high for the size of the reservoir. Great example of this is the Swiftech Maelstrom V1.0
> 
> Like I told Fey when he/she/it asked in OMPT, if there's a leak, then air could be slowly adding back into the system as the leak drips.


Good points.

I swear I heard my pump sound like it was running dry for a very short time once in a while for the past 2 weeks. Pump(mcp655) is only on speed 2.
Re-did the loop with a Xspc dual bay/d5 top, coming from an tube res. Had to do this because of space issues with my new 290 tri-x, that thing is long.









Bleeding didn't take that long btw.

_____________________________________________________________________

Can some of you guys be so kind to look at my post in the Vishera club and reply? It's about WC.

Linky


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is it normal for a loop with 3 radiators (360+240+120), 2 reservoirs (150ml Phobya cyl res + xspc bay-res/pump), 2 blocks (7990+raystorm cpu block) and the D5 pump in the bayres to takes more than 3 days to bleed?
> 
> So far it's been 3 days, on-off for hours on end of toggling between 1-5 speed, tilting the case, turning on and off and whatnot - it barely sounds better than it did at the start.
> 
> https://soundcloud.com/kitten/meh
> 
> ^After 2 days of bleeding the loop


Seeing as you have a D5,you can try loosening the pump top a little till you get seeping water then nip it up slightly,sounds like air in the pump top or still in the fluid.

If that res is the integrated D5 res with the return feed that blows directly into the pump inlet then its a solid pig to bleed,I had to use a ice lolly stick poked into the res as a deflector while bleeding in the end.

After a week of hard stares at it anyway.....


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Omg, that sounds horrible.
> Sure, I only did a water loop twice... but the sound was nowhere near that.
> 
> You sure there isn't something clogged there?
> Did you flush everything?
> 
> Is it a new loop?
> Good points.
> 
> I swear I heard my pump sound like it was running dry for a very short time once in a while for the past 2 weeks. Pump(mcp655) is only on speed 2.
> Re-did the loop with a Xspc dual bay/d5 top, coming from an tube res. Had to do this because of space issues with my new 290 tri-x, that thing is long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bleeding didn't take that long btw.
> 
> _____________________________________________________________________
> 
> Can some of you guys be so kind to look at my post in the Vishera club and reply? It's about WC.
> 
> Linky


bleeding with bay reservoirs are just a PITA anyways, and lots of them allow you to put way too much pump power on them which turns into you sucking air via vortexing... Then you have this user which decided to use two reservoirs in one big ol' loop, which most people recommend against any time someone asks about it, and you have your self one royal pain in the ass system to bleed.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

what helped with me getting air out my d5 was to on-off it a few times but i have a lot more pressure with my pump.

did you try taking out that res and tilting it while on-off?

i have a setup withmultiple res and its fine but they are 250 tube res so they are alot easier to control the flow with.

you have any of thosepressure releif valve button things?
that came in very handy with controlling air and water flow.
use it to create a pressure difference between the 2 resevoirs

but really just try and turn the res seperately so its output is the highest point. jiust work the air out with gravity and physics and floatyness


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what helped with me getting air out my d5 was to on-off it a few times but i have a lot more pressure with my pump.
> 
> did you try taking out that res and tilting it while on-off?
> 
> i have a setup withmultiple res and its fine but they are 250 tube res so they are alot easier to control the flow with.
> 
> you have any of thosepressure releif valve button things?
> that came in very handy with controlling air and water flow.
> use it to create a pressure difference between the 2 resevoirs
> 
> but really just try and turn the res seperately so its output is the highest point. jiust work the air out with gravity and physics and floatyness


The pressure you have is the same as any D5 mate. In fact a D5 PWM (or any vario like) will have a slightly larger head pressure at 0 GPM that your e3 have.

http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2013/01/SS-05R1_E5-Plastics.pdf

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/4/


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like you may have ordered the old LRT. You need the new "Advanced LRT" "Crystal Clear". These are the ones that replaced the old stuff that was prone to the plasticize.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I think Lowfat nailed it. I had Adv. LRT tubing and I was running water temps in the 50s (C) sometimes because don't have enough rad space and it caused clouding within a week.


leeching within a few hours? with advance lrt?







the whole reason I got advanced lrt was cause I read that it didn't cloud so easily!


----------



## wermad

My old d5 and xspc bay res took while to bleed. Agreed, bay reservoir/pump combos can be tricky to bleed.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

u absolutely sure cuz i was investigating it and they were supposed to be 16ft headpressure which was close to thew mcp35x

one of the reasons i bought it

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9i2ku8am24btm9o/20141216_113903.jpg?dl=0

a pic of it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> u absolutely sure cuz i was investigating it and they were supposed to be 16ft headpressure which was close to thew mcp35x
> 
> one of the reasons i bought it


Well it was what the document says mate. Look at the graph. Less than 12 feet on the Y axis at 0 GPM. Look at Martin table at 100% PWM. 12.85 feet at 0 GPM. Unless the graph from xylem does not apply to your particular model.

*edit- and here for the e3 it seems even lower: http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BR-28A.pdf*

*edit2 - please don´t get me wrong. I known you love your pump and rightly so. Was just getting the facts straight so someone reading through this (and that have a happy trigger) does not jump and buy the e3/e5 expecting higher head pressure that a regular d5







*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> leeching within a few hours? with advance lrt?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the whole reason I got advanced lrt was cause I read that it didn't cloud so easily!


Did you use the system prep? If you did, contact Primochill. They have been good at replacing bad Advanced tube.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9i2ku8am24btm9o/20141216_113903.jpg?dl=0

this is mine

so far i have just about had 0 luck finding any documents on it.

says the e3 series is for 700-1000ft of pipe and the e1 is
\hmm looks like you are right. only data i can find says its peak is about 10 which is surprising when i bought them i found data saying 16ft.
I cant find my specific model but its not the plastic series pump

I dudnno there is the product cxode
maybe someone else can find something

its got supreme flow though
I guess makes sense for what i was trying to buy at the moment

I mean i was building a chillybox at the time i was planningthat build


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/9i2ku8am24btm9o/20141216_113903.jpg?dl=0
> 
> this is mine


your particular model is not listed in the table at the end but it looks like all e3 share the p-q curve at the document:

http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BR-28A.pdf

where did you get the idea the head pressure was around 16 feet?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i have no idea i read something MONTHS ago.yeah thats the graph i am looking at now though

i these stats are gonna be the closest to what mine are
http://www.sustainablesupply.com/Laing-Thermotech-E3-BCSVNN3W-11-Circulator-Pump-1-p/w161682.htm

or this? http://shop.neobits.com/laing_thermotech_xylem_e3_nshvnn3w_13_pump_canned_motor_noryl_3_4_hb_1034177657.php

i mean mine does have 13 at the end.. i wish i could just figure out what my manufacture number means


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i have no idea i read something MONTHS ago.yeah thats the graph i am looking at now though


Like I said mate in my previous edited post (in bold): please don´t get me wrong. I known you love your pump and rightly so. Was just getting the facts straight so someone reading through this (and that have a happy trigger) does not jump and buy the e3/e5 expecting higher head pressure that a regular d5









You are happy with and its getting the job done with flying colors so that´s is the important thing.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

main problem is I really can't find any legit stats for my specific model # so theres alot thats up in the air like if I can't correlate my model to an exact set of specs...

like theres a 1/150 hp and a 1/25hp model that look about the damn same

And the 13 isnot in the codes for the brasstop e3s any longer and for whatever reason i have a feeling that indicates its power or somethin


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> main problem is I really can't find any legit stats for my specific model # so theres alot thats up in the air like if I can't correlate my model to an exact set of specs...
> 
> like theres a 1/150 hp and a 1/25hp model that look about the damn same
> 
> And the 13 isnot in the codes for the brasstop e3s any longer and for whatever reason i have a feeling that indicates its power or somethin


try searching for the part number. Start with LMB or LM8 in your picture. From all documents of current models in xylem the only different beast there is the e10 with 18" head pressure.

well at least I found some clue about Laing/Xylem nomenclature:

http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/laing-thermotech/domestic-hot-water-sanitary-pumps/39060-105198.html

http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/laing-thermotech/e1-e3-plastic-pumps-spec-sheet/39060-392679.html

from that document it seems the 13 in your pump model number is the maximum head pressure


----------



## Gabrielzm

Lol Mate we are editing so much our posts that bneg is going to unleash his dog on us soon. I am pretty sure the 13 at the end of your model is the head pressure. It makes sense. It is the head pressure of the d5. check the model numbers for the e1. max head pressure is 6 (check graph at http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BR-28A.pdf) and all of the current models have the 6 at the end. check the e3 models. all have the 11 at the end which is the max. head pressure of the current e3 models. Yours is an older one and have the 13 which happens to be the ~head pressure of the d5 (12.85). So that document is really the clue to the Xylem nomenclature. Sorry B-neg and other folks for the detour in the thread


----------



## tatmMRKIV

awesome! thats good to know

yes sorry for the threadjacking but its sorta on topic gonna take some pics


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> main problem is I really can't find any legit stats for my specific model # so theres alot thats up in the air like if I can't correlate my model to an exact set of specs...
> 
> like theres a 1/150 hp and a 1/25hp model that look about the damn same
> 
> And the 13 isnot in the codes for the brasstop e3s any longer and for whatever reason i have a feeling that indicates its power or somethin


http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BR-28A.pdf

Its the same output as a D5

EDIT: Got beat to it.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

how about flow rate is it better or worse?

ghetto curtain rod mod... had to do it.. those cards sagged so bad..


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> how about flow rate is it better or worse?
> 
> ghetto curtain rod mod... had to do it.. those cards sagged so bad..


That tubing to the second gpu.









Nice big res. btw.
What is that? A 400 or something?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> how about flow rate is it better or worse?
> 
> ghetto curtain rod mod... had to do it.. those cards sagged so bad..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


flow rate should be the same like a D5. focus on the 1-2 gpm part of the curve and compare to Martin´s table of the d5 pwm.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol yeah I have to install the bridge I was looking for the fclink and just found it yesterday
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That tubing to the second gpu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice big res. btw.
> What is that? A 400 or something?


lol yeah I have to install the bridge I was looking for the fclink and just found it yesterday
and they are 2 different generations of waterblocks so its not like they are going to fit that well either way xD

lol so its got no advantages.. well thats bs. good thing i havent gotten 2 more


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> ghetto curtain rod mod... had to do it.. those cards sagged so bad..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think the sagging might be partially caused by your tubing runs, if you ever rebuild the loop, you might want to have your tubing support the card instead of forcing it down. But the curtain mod works too I guess.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i tried but it wasnt gonna happen. lol

and yeah the res a 400


----------



## Ceadderman

Just another reason to go acrylic runs over flexible. Less weight on GPU cards.









~Ceadder


----------



## tatmMRKIV

no its really the cards they are originally 3slot cards and designed as such so they have really poor support

if i had gone acrylic there would be splits and water everywhere


----------



## skupples

huh, I've never really had droop issues, but most of the cases i've had have double PCI-e screws, one through the I/O and one below it, that combined with back plates & SLi bridges/solid fittings = non issue.


----------



## Domiro

Painting a new Alphacool rad; sand, prime, degrease and paint or is some scotchbrite and degreasing enough before painting it? Only ever painted bare metal.


----------



## lawndart

Well I went back to water cooling made a custom loop out of parts i could scrounge up that were laying around.




Wish I had taken pics when I made this, I modified alot to make it work .. so yes it looks ghetto. Has Mayhems Blue in it and the pics dont show alot so I am sorry.

LawnDart


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> huh, I've never really had droop issues, but most of the cases i've had have double PCI-e screws, one through the I/O and one below it, that combined with back plates & SLi bridges/solid fittings = non issue.


yeah I am expecting it to sag alot less once i get thhe bridge on it.

i use both screws but itt reall doesnt help. seeing as its not the factory pcie support.

I dunno this is just a mock up. i am going to take out the radiator and pump probably and put a standard d5 variable speed in

i have another gpu I am putting in too. its gonna be three slot support since i dont have a 3rd 2slot ek version

also the back plates wont fit with the ek pcie supports and sli going on...
go figure


----------



## airberg

I've always had droop issues with my vid carda and have been looking for ways to fix it but nothing seems to work. Maybe I'll try the curtain rod!

Antec Kuhler 920 modded for 6870 usage and the rest is work in progress


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i mean what can I say? curtain rod freaking works

i had some really bad sag like nearly more than 2cm at the tip of the card
pcie power cab;es=weight tubing=weight waterblock=weight. cant put backplates on due to pciebracket interference.

rather have something hideous than something broken

plus this build is no where near done. I mean as a system it works and kicks but but it is held together with duct tape and chewing gum


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i mean what can I say? curtain rod freaking works
> 
> i had some really bad sag like nearly more than 2cm at the tip of the card
> pcie power cab;es=weight tubing=weight waterblock=weight. cant put backplates on due to pciebracket interference.
> 
> rather have something hideous than something broken
> 
> plus this build is no where near done. I mean as a system it works and kicks but but it is held together with duct tape and chewing gum


Functionality will always trump looks in my book, my friend. I as well would rather have something that kicka ass over something that looks perty (yes perty) and barely performs


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> I've always had droop issues with my vid carda and have been looking for ways to fix it but nothing seems to work. Maybe I'll try the curtain rod!
> 
> Antec Kuhler 920 modded for 6870 usage and the rest is work in progress


How is that working with your pump ABOVE your res?That sucker's goin to run dry.


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> How is that working with your pump ABOVE your res?That sucker's goin to run dry.


Haven't had any problems with it where its at. Never sucked air.
Got the swiftech mcp35x but im going to do some changes to the loop when i get the heatsink / fan combo for the pump. Going to mount the res directly on the inlet. Just a matter of where i want to mount it. Res is Bits power z-250


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> How is that working with your pump ABOVE your res?That sucker's goin to run dry.


Haven't had any problems with it where its at. Never sucked air.
Got the swiftech mcp35x but im going to do some changes to the loop when i get the heatsink / fan combo for the pump. Going to mount the res directly on the inlet. Just a matter of where i want to mount it. Res is Bits power z-250


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> Haven't had any problems with it where its at. Never sucked air.
> Got the swiftech mcp35x but im going to do some changes to the loop when i get the heatsink / fan combo for the pump. Going to mount the res directly on the inlet. Just a matter of where i want to mount it. Res is Bits power z-250


As someone with Swiftech DDCs, don't waste your time on the heatsinks or the fan, just pickup the metal EK bottoms.... Not to mention the heatsink + fan add a good 25mm to the height of your pump.

I picked up the kit from Swiftech when I first got the pumps, I used it for only a short period of time before realizing that it's basically worthless.

(No offense BRAM)

A.) the stock swiftech bottoms are plastic, so their heat transfer to the metal heat sink is poor
B.) the thermal pads they supply are terrible
C.) Size.

The EK metal bottoms are discrete, attractive, effective & come with a pre-cut piece of tim that you place between the PCB and the metal bottom.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> Haven't had any problems with it where its at. Never sucked air.
> Got the swiftech mcp35x but im going to do some changes to the loop when i get the heatsink / fan combo for the pump. Going to mount the res directly on the inlet. Just a matter of where i want to mount it. Res is Bits power z-250


OK.how did you end up filling your loop without the pump running dry?Unless you put your case upside down.


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> As someone with Swiftech DDCs, don't waste your time on the heatsinks or the fan, just pickup the metal EK bottoms.... Not to mention the heatsink + fan add a good 25mm to the height of your pump.
> 
> I picked up the kit from Swiftech when I first got the pumps, I used it for only a short period of time before realizing that it's basically worthless.
> 
> (No offense BRAM)
> 
> A.) the stock swiftech bottoms are plastic, so their heat transfer to the metal heat sink is poor
> B.) the thermal pads they supply are terrible
> C.) Size.
> 
> The EK metal bottoms are discrete, attractive, effective & come with a pre-cut piece of tim that you place between the PCB and the metal bottom.


Never thought about the plastic to metal but i would end up using my own thermal paste. Size is not an issue with the HAF stacker case for me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> OK.how did you end up filling your loop without the pump running dry?Unless you put your case upside down.


Laid it flat with the res out of its place. Left enough tubing to pull it out to continue adding. Finally topped it off and currently no air in system.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> Never thought about the plastic to metal but i would end up using my own thermal paste. Size is not an issue with the HAF stacker case for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid it flat with the res out of its place. Left enough tubing to pull it out to continue adding. Finally topped it off and currently no air in system.


I highly doubt you would want to use thermal paste between the heat sink & the plastic pump housing, but whatever! If your set on getting the ugly, large & inefficient heatsink + fan combo, don't let me stop you.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> I've always had droop issues with my vid carda and have been looking for ways to fix it but nothing seems to work. Maybe I'll try the curtain rod!
> Antec Kuhler 920 modded for 6870 usage and the rest is work in progress


I have issues with my 295x2 drooping. This time around I'm going with acrylic tubing and I had a piece that looked about the right length... remembered someone posted the idea around here that I should try an acrylic "curtan rod" for support and tried to jam it in there. It didn't fit exactly but a quick trim and some electrical tape around the top did the job... I think I actually like it. Considering capping both ends and filling it with some UV coolant.


----------



## skupples

this is probably part of my droop support.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







except that it's solid fittings now. 3x BP extensions.


----------



## Ductien2112

I have 01 360 radiator and 01 240 radiator more at the bottom










Quote:


> http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-900d-800d-750d-700d-650d-550d-450d-350d-250d-club/7790#post_23283889


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Painting a new Alphacool rad; sand, prime, degrease and paint or is some scotchbrite and degreasing enough before painting it? Only ever painted bare metal.


just sand it down a little to break the original paint and clean with a clean cloth. Then go ahead and paint it.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ductien2112*
> 
> I have 01 360 radiator and 01 240 radiator more at the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Could you link me to some more pics of that custom water channel piece at the back, I was planning on having something similar done for a midplate and would really like to see your creation process.
Really nice build you have!


----------



## Ductien2112

Thank you very much









The below are pictures which I took:

- Very first time: there is no hole for fitting




- Let get it started:










- CNC the acrylic plate and insert the washer:




- Assembly:






Finished:


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Question, does it matter if you have a little dust in your blocks and rads?

Gonna put my loop back together tomorrow and really cant be bothered cleaning them again


----------



## Ductien2112

Until now, it doesn't matter at all cause of next week I will replace the distilled water by Orange Pastel coolant (before arrange this project, I cleaned all my loop already)
In fact, I change the style usually so I dont mind If there is a little dust inside


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> When you are doing a line that has multiple bends though... Like say 2 45s. with a diagonal between them, the diagonal... how long does it need to be? Oh the math,,,
> 
> This is what I've got so far... Have the flu. Totally exhausted. I keep getting little folds and kinks in my tubing, but I just want to make sure I'm on the right track before I redo any of it.


You're a brave man for doing those acrylic bends on that monoblock. After numerous attempts of trying to perfect my bends I gave up. So I ended up using partial bends and letting some 90 degree fittings do the rest. The hardest bends were from the left RAM block to the GPU, and right RAM block to the monoblock. Both required 90 degree bends on opposite axis' almost immediately.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2532.jpg.html


----------



## Westy

Got a new case







Phanteks Enthoo Pro, didn't have money or time for new fittings and res and what not, so I had to reuse the XSPC dual 5.25" bay res. I'm planning on going tube res here pretty soon, as well as a second 7970 and possibly a new 420mm rad for the top. The hoses are UV Blue, but the UV light we were using was so intense it made them look white (personally I kinda like the white better, maybe next time). Love how it came out, and glad to have a new case







especially with so much room! I'll miss the white 600t, but she went to a good home.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> You're a brave man for doing those acrylic bends on that monoblock. After numerous attempts of trying to perfect my bends I gave up. So I ended up using partial bends and letting some 90 degree fittings do the rest. The hardest bends were from the left RAM block to the GPU, and right RAM block to the monoblock. Both required 90 degree bends on opposite axis' almost immediately.


They aren't quite as bad as they look in that picture being resized--the bubbles are actually water droplets. The tubing came out clean, it's just that the bends are a little rough and "bumpy". I am determined to get them right.I'll forgo modesty foir a moment and repost it cropped without letting the site resize it:



Going to redo almost all of it once I get my technique down. I did a couple of "perfect" bends yesterday but then the piece didn't fit because I got my measurements out of order.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ductien2112*
> 
> Thank you very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The below are pictures which I took:
> 
> - Very first time: there is no hole for fitting
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Let get it started:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - CNC the acrylic plate and insert the washer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Assembly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished:


This is an absolutely amazing post. So much rep deserved for what amounts to a how to in pictures. Amazing work and an amazing build.


----------



## Ductien2112

Thank you for it,

In my country (Vietnam), it's very difficult to buy the water cooling accessories (for example: block, fitting, tube, pump, etc) from EU or America cause of oversea payment, shipping cost, policy of the Seller, import tax. So sometimes we have to make it ourselves, I'm using 02 VGAs Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB version
Quote:


> http://www.gigabyte.vn/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4647#ov


EKWB, Aquacomputer, XSPC, no one wants to make water block for this VGA (really dont understand why







), therefore I had to made it also










Origin block: too dirty















Nickel coated:



Back plate DIY:


Done:


----------



## electro2u

Incredible.


----------



## Mongoose135

Thought I would share a few pics of my loop!


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ductien2112*
> 
> Thank you for it,
> 
> In my country (Vietnam), it's very difficult to buy the water cooling accessories (for example: block, fitting, tube, pump, etc) from EU or America cause of oversea payment, shipping cost, policy of the Seller, import tax. So sometimes we have to make it ourselves, I'm using 02 VGAs Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB version
> EKWB, Aquacomputer, XSPC, no one wants to make water block for this VGA (really dont understand why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), therefore I had to made it also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Origin block: too dirty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel coated:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back plate DIY:
> 
> 
> Done:


My friend, congratulations.
That block looks gorgeous, the nickel plating seems flawless and the overall quality of it looks on par, if not better, than most big-brand blocks. Seriously, there must have been a massive amount of effort on them. They look perfect.


----------



## Ductien2112

Really glad to read your comment,

I dont have enough information to compare the temperature of my VGAs with the others, as testing last time:

- Ambient temp: 30~31*C
- Temp. in stress: Unigine Heaven 4.0: GPU1 = 43*C, GPU2 = 46*C

Yes, I can say for sure there is no typing mistake about the temp. GPU1 is smaller than GPU2. I tried to use NT-H1, Mx-4 and now is Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra but the difference is no changed.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ductien2112*
> 
> Thank you for it,
> 
> In my country (Vietnam), it's very difficult to buy the water cooling accessories (for example: block, fitting, tube, pump, etc) from EU or America cause of oversea payment, shipping cost, policy of the Seller, import tax. So sometimes we have to make it ourselves, I'm using 02 VGAs Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB version
> EKWB, Aquacomputer, XSPC, no one wants to make water block for this VGA (really dont understand why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), therefore I had to made it also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Origin block: too dirty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel coated:
> 
> 
> 
> Back plate DIY:
> 
> 
> Done:


Ohh ****.
Very nice work there buddy.

How is the performance?


----------



## Ductien2112

Here is the result of today

Idle:
GPU1 23*C, GPU2:24*C


Unigine Heaven:
GPU1 38*C, GPU2:40*C


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ductien2112*
> 
> Here is the result of today
> 
> Idle:
> GPU1 23*C, GPU2:24*C
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unigine Heaven:
> GPU1 38*C, GPU2:40*C
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are some seriously ideal temps! That is exactly what I am getting on load with my EK 780 Ti nickel blocks. You did an amazing job.


----------



## reset1101

At what rpms do you have the fans with those temps?

Thanks!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> At what rpms do you have the fans with those temps?
> 
> Thanks!


The Aquaero takes care of it for mine, they run at around 1100 - 1200RPM once the cards reach those temps.

Rads:
240 Monsta in push/pull
240 ST30 in push
140 ST30 in push/pull

Components cooled in loop:
2 x 780 Ti SC with light OC
3770k without OC for now


----------



## siffonen

How easy it should be to bleed and fill loop with a XSPC DDC Dual Bay Reservoir?
My brother had this reservoir-pump combo and i noticed that when he was filling hes loop, it took a lot of time.
First pump seemed that its not pumping any water, just making foam and slowly water started going to loop, seemed a bit weird for me.
He did change pump and reservoir to d5 and EK res, i didnt watch that how he managed to fill with them.

He is also having some problems with temps, gpus (780ti sli) are getting too hot (imo) to around 60c, and air coming through rad is warm.


----------



## ballzd33p

Getting retired very soon....


----------



## MocoIMO

Hey everyone, I could use some suggestions on fans because my SP120's are starting to kick the bucket









I have all XPSC RX Rads & a Merlin SM5 .. of course silent/high air movement is the goal


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MocoIMO*
> 
> Hey everyone, I could use some suggestions on fans because my SP120's are starting to kick the bucket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have all XPSC RX Rads & a Merlin SM5 .. of course silent/high air movement is the goal


I'm a big fan of Noiseblockers. EIther Multiframes or eLoops are the way to go. Otherwise, if you can get your hands on some used GT AP-15s that would be the way to go.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MocoIMO*
> 
> Hey everyone, I could use some suggestions on fans because my SP120's are starting to kick the bucket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have all XPSC RX Rads & a Merlin SM5 .. of course silent/high air movement is the goal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a big fan of Noiseblockers. EIther Multiframes or eLoops are the way to go. Otherwise, if you can get your hands on some used GT AP-15s that would be the way to go.
Click to expand...

Why used when you can still buy new AP-15s (1850rpm Gentle Typhoons) for about the same price if not less than eloops or multiframes are going for?


----------



## electro2u

I really like noiseblockers a lot. The fans are fine, whatever, they are good decent fans, but what nails it for me are the thumb screw system and rubber mounting frames they come with.

In other news... I have LEARNED how to bend acrylic. Made some absolutely beautiful bends this morning. Even figured out one mystery--
I was getting this weird sort of rough mark the whole way around the tubes but just right at the center of my bends, hard to see but it was bothering me:
it was because I was making a circle around the spot where I wanted the center of the bend to be with a blue crayola marker. The heat was burning the ink into the acrylic just barely. Fortunately a quick run with some Novus fine scratch remover polishes it out =)

QUESTION: What's the most convenient way to cut acrylic tubing? Getting sick to death of using the tiny handsaw that came with my monsoon kit.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> QUESTION: What's the most convenient way to cut acrylic tubing? Getting sick to death of using the tiny handsaw that came with my monsoon kit.


There is a whole thread about it http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There is a whole thread about it http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101


Yes yes, I post stupid questions there too!~







Just trying to keep you on your toes.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I really like noiseblockers a lot. The fans are fine, whatever, they are good decent fans, but what nails it for me are the thumb screw system and rubber mounting frames they come with.
> 
> In other news... I have LEARNED how to bend acrylic. Made some absolutely beautiful bends this morning. Even figured out one mystery--
> I was getting this weird sort of rough mark the whole way around the tubes but just right at the center of my bends, hard to see but it was bothering me:
> it was because I was making a circle around the spot where I wanted the center of the bend to be with a blue crayola marker. The heat was burning the ink into the acrylic just barely. Fortunately a quick run with some Novus fine scratch remover polishes it out =)
> 
> QUESTION: What's the most convenient way to cut acrylic tubing? Getting sick to death of using the tiny handsaw that came with my monsoon kit.


Use blue masking tape and mark each end instead of the center. Also put a piece of tape over where you are cutting w/ the saw/miter. It makes it quite a bit easier to cut w/ less mess.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ductien2112*
> 
> Really glad to read your comment,
> 
> I dont have enough information to compare the temperature of my VGAs with the others, as testing last time:
> 
> - Ambient temp: 30~31*C
> - Temp. in stress: Unigine Heaven 4.0: GPU1 = 43*C, GPU2 = 46*C
> 
> Yes, I can say for sure there is no typing mistake about the temp. GPU1 is smaller than GPU2. I tried to use NT-H1, Mx-4 and now is Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra but the difference is no changed.


Amazing work mate. +rep for the custom work you did on the blocks and the pc case. Those temps are normal. Usually the second card runs hotter by 1-3 C than the first


----------



## emsj86

Was thinking of on my single gpu and cpu loop to do a two tones soft tubing. Right now it's clear with blue mayhem pastel. What are your thoughts of every other section of tubing going clear mayhem blue berry than either white or black tubing on the next. So for example res to pump white tubing, pump to rad blue. Clear (to see blue berry pastel) than white tube from rad to gpu and so on. Has anyone done this just an idea and think it might loom ok but than again I don't want it to look bad


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ballzd33p*
> 
> Getting retired very soon....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey Ballz! Where have you been man?

Ready to pour it on matey?

Still rolling the Iwaki then?


----------



## rtop2




----------



## Cyclops

Thanks to Jerry (gdesmo) for taking these awesome pics:


----------



## wermad

@ Ductien2112

That's amazing work









You and Nateman_doo are a special breed of pc nerdness diy'ers! Your temps are great btw!


----------



## LiquidHaus

finished it up


----------



## lowfat

Looks good.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

A little bit of dust in your blocks and crap wont cause any major issues will it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> A little bit of dust in your blocks and crap wont cause any major issues will it?


decrease in performance







But since you said you won't be bothered to clean it why ask


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> decrease in performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But since you said you won't be bothered to clean it why ask


Well I cant be bothered cleaning each part again (would be the 7th time this month







) and its not like its caked on

When I put it together I might flush it once or twice if I can be bothered


----------



## electro2u

Sorry for gratuitous posting of shots of this rig... But I am just really enjoying myself and hopefully a couple of you guys who have helped me out with essential advice will enjoy seeing progress without the need for an actual updated bl. I finished the acrylic. Now to count the leaks and fix them.
Quick cell phone shot :


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Sorry for gratuitous posting of shots of this rig... But I am just really enjoying myself and hopefully a couple of you guys who have helped me out with essential advice will enjoy seeing progress without the need for an actual updated bl. I finished the acrylic. Now to count the leaks and fix them.
> Quick cell phone shot :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good! You're getting really good with the acrylic. Now you have me considering redoing some of my bends...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey need a little bit of help with my res

This is how I got it setup going to my CPU, will this work or should I try to do it another way?

Sorry for the potato pics


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hey need a little bit of help with my res
> 
> This is how I got it setup going to my CPU, will this work or should I try to do it another way?
> 
> Sorry for the potato pics


it will work but you might consider taking one 90 degrees out of that equation. If you flip your tee toward the direction of the incoming tube you just need a compression there and no 90 degrees adapter.


----------



## electro2u

Just researched for 30 minutes to make sure that was correct. It is, of course, I have a new system I'm starting on with the same kit... never put one together before, suddenly realized I needed an aqua pipe. Then I remembered a pal of mine sent me one along with some other used parts recently. Guess he knew I'd forget lol


----------



## linuxfueled




----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it will work but you might consider taking one 90 degrees out of that equation. If you flip your tee toward the direction of the incoming tube you just need a compression there and no 90 degrees adapter.


Thanks, I was worried I'd have to change the 90, been waiting 2 months to get her back up suppose whats another week, providing I can get black sparkle barbs in Aus if not I'll just go with the damn silver ones for the time being

I really need to stock up on barbs and crap when I order from USA

Edit, would it be smoother if I put a 45 on the CPU block and a barb on the res?


----------



## Leyaena

Gonna add another radiator to my loop, but which are the best fans to put on an EK XTX 360?
I've got Noctua NF-F12's on my XTX 480, and I've been tempted to switch all of my fans out to their 3000RPM IndustrialPCC F12's, but the issue there is that it would literally cost me a small fortune









Any recommendations?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Gonna add another radiator to my loop, but which are the best fans to put on an EK XTX 360?
> I've got Noctua NF-F12's on my XTX 480, and I've been tempted to switch all of my fans out to their 3000RPM IndustrialPCC F12's, but the issue there is that it would literally cost me a small fortune
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations?


IPPC F12 are great fans, but way too pricy. And 3000rpm would be way overkill, kinda beats the purpose of a custom loop. If I were to get IPPC's I'd get the 2000rpm variant.

What about the new EK Varfar fans? They'll be for sale soon, the 1850rpm variant seems tempting.


----------



## Leyaena

Thing is, there's no difference in price between the 3000 and 2000 RPM fans anyway, and since I have them hooked up to a decent fan controller, I might as well take the extra capacity, right?
Not like I'd ever run them at 100% anyway, I value the silence way too much, that's why I went with Noctua in the first place.

Since I'll be getting a third Classy at some point in the near future (around the time when EK finally releases their full-cover blocks for the Classies), I was thinking of moving in an extra 360 rad now, in order to keep the system nice and cool without ever having to turn up the fans so high I'd actually hear them.

To be honest, if they still sold Gentle Typhoon AP-15's, I'd probably get myself a big box full of those


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Thing is, there's no difference in price between the 3000 and 2000 RPM fans anyway, and since I have them hooked up to a decent fan controller, I might as well take the extra capacity, right?
> Not like I'd ever run them at 100% anyway, I value the silence way too much, that's why I went with Noctua in the first place.
> 
> Since I'll be getting a third Classy at some point in the near future (around the time when EK finally releases their full-cover blocks for the Classies), I was thinking of moving in an extra 360 rad now, in order to keep the system nice and cool without ever having to turn up the fans so high I'd actually hear them.
> 
> To be honest, if they still sold Gentle Typhoon AP-15's, I'd probably get myself a big box full of those


If you get the 3000rpm over the 2000rpm it will be much harder to get them down to lower RPM levels with a fan controller.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Thing is, there's no difference in price between the 3000 and 2000 RPM fans anyway, and since I have them hooked up to a decent fan controller, I might as well take the extra capacity, right?
> Not like I'd ever run them at 100% anyway, I value the silence way too much, that's why I went with Noctua in the first place.
> 
> Since I'll be getting a third Classy at some point in the near future (around the time when EK finally releases their full-cover blocks for the Classies), I was thinking of moving in an extra 360 rad now, in order to keep the system nice and cool without ever having to turn up the fans so high I'd actually hear them.
> 
> To be honest, if they still sold Gentle Typhoon AP-15's, I'd probably get myself a big box full of those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you get the 3000rpm over the 2000rpm it will be much harder to get them down to lower RPM levels with a fan controller.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. My Aquaeros (a 5Pro and 6 XT) have handled all sorts of fans, and I've had 3,000RPM fans pushing at 850RPM quite easily.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Not necessarily. My Aquaeros (a 5Pro and 6 XT) have handled all sorts of fans, and I've had 3,000RPM fans pushing at 850RPM quite easily.


I agree with this. The right kind of fan controller with good hardware can handle a wider RPM range.


----------



## Leyaena

Good point, Alex!
I didn't really take minimum fan voltages into account.

What are the most common alternatives for the Gentle Typhoons nowadays, now that they've stopped making them?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> To be honest, if they still sold Gentle Typhoon AP-15's, I'd probably get myself a big box full of those


The EK Vardar is supposed to be pretty similar to the GT's.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> To be honest, if they still sold Gentle Typhoon AP-15's, I'd probably get myself a big box full of those


As stated by @Unicr0nhunterin post #76928:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Why used when you can still buy new AP-15s (1850rpm Gentle Typhoons) for about the same price if not less than eloops or multiframes are going for?


----------



## VSG

Not in Belgium though, where he is located as per his info.


----------



## pc-illiterate

But people still need to stop saying there are no more gt fans and that they are not being made anymore. Availability is not production.


----------



## VSG

He said "if they still sold" which is a fair statement for him. But yeah, true point that.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> But people still need to stop saying there are no more gt fans and that they are not being made anymore. Availability is not production.


Well He kind of didn't say that, he just said they aren't being sold anymore. Which is true for us people in Europe(at least to my knowledge there are no more retailers in Europe that sell GT's).

Your statement is true tho, there are way too many people claiming that the GT is no longer being made.

Edit:


----------



## Alex132

GTs are so hard to get a hold of, I just use the next best thing I can get a hold of really.


----------



## MocoIMO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'm a big fan of Noiseblockers. EIther Multiframes or eLoops are the way to go. Otherwise, if you can get your hands on some used GT AP-15s that would be the way to go.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Why used when you can still buy new AP-15s (1850rpm Gentle Typhoons) for about the same price if not less than eloops or multiframes are going for?


Thank you both for the replies, I totally would prefer to order new AP-15's but I will be really close to FCPU WH the next couple of weeks and it will be easier to just grab the eLoops with the other items I need instead of waiting.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> finished it up






That 800D is awesome, really like the PSU mod


----------



## ozzy1925

temporarily i hooked one my wingsboost 2 fans to my air cooler and yesterday i saw some kind of oil came from it.I cleaned it but I wonder if this kind of oil can damage any component?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Even in the US there is only one company that gets them. And its a complete mystery how

I am pretty sure they are out of produxtion. I think they just have stock at the us scythe distributer.


----------



## thwl

Got in touch with them and later ordered a bunch of GTs for push/pull configs after a quick response from CS; asked them specifically if they were old or brand new stock. Response I got was that all GTs in stock are brand new manufactured just for them.

This shouldn't really matter to anyone here on ocn but the fans come with no packaging - no box, no fan screws, daisy chain/4pin adapter, etc.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

from where?
My coolerguys ap 30s all had packaging. screws and the Nidec branding packaging
heres one of them


----------



## Agenesis

Does water flow matter when it comes to quick disconnects? Or should I just follow nature and use male as outlets and females as inlets.


----------



## thwl

Mine were wrapped in plastic bubble wraps; got them from coolerguys too. Interesting.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-thor-asrix99-nickel-plated-clear.html

if BP can make one why cant EK?

omg though I am so freaking excited. now I have 2 x99 boards to watercool I might just have to do dual x99 systems in my RH desk afterall


----------



## Jorvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Does water flow matter when it comes to quick disconnects? Or should I just follow nature and use male as outlets and females as inlets.


no it dosent mater.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thwl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Even in the US there is only one company that gets them. And its a complete mystery how
> 
> I am pretty sure they are out of produxtion. I think they just have stock at the us scythe distributer.
> 
> 
> 
> Got in touch with them and later ordered a bunch of GTs for push/pull configs after a quick response from CS; asked them specifically if they were old or brand new stock. Response I got was that all GTs in stock are brand new manufactured just for them.
> 
> This shouldn't really matter to anyone here on ocn but the fans come with no packaging - no box, no fan screws, daisy chain/4pin adapter, etc.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> from where?
> My coolerguys ap 30s all had packaging. screws and the Nidec branding packaging
> heres one of them
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
Click to expand...

It's not a 'complete mystery'. Gentle Typhoons are not 'out of production'.

They are still available from Nidec commercially, who have said all along that they "_have no plans to discontinue_" the Gentle Typhoon lineup. They just no longer use Scythe as a retail distributor, nor do they appear to be interested in replacing them with anyone else to package, market, or distribute the fans on a retail level for them like Scythe did, which means nowadays anyone wanting to buy new Gentle Typhoons from Nidec will have to be able to meet their 10,000 fan Min Order Quantity.

Coolerguys apparently did just that with the 1850rpm GTs, formerly commonly referred to as AP-15s when they were distributed by Scythe. The '15' was Scythe's customer order number. Coolerguys' 1850rpm GT's are AP-53 for the same exact fans, but a newer batch of them, and they come oem packaged, not with Scythe's retail boxes.



Spoiler: 1850 rpm Gentle Typhoons: AP-15 (old - Scythe) AP-53 (new - Coolerguys)







Like WiSK mused, we should probably have been calling them "_B5APs instead of AP15s_" all along. If you are so interested, you can see *here* for a thorough explanation of Nidec's fan model naming conventions.

That said, that's only for those most popular 1850rpm GTs. What's still being sold so far of other Gentle Typhoon model numbers, like tatmMRKIV's AP-30s, are remaining stock from Scythe. As those models stocks dwindle I suspect it will probably be less likely that companies will invest in 10,000 fan orders of them like Coolerguys apparently did with the 1850rpm models, but who knows? TBH I was a bit surprised Coolerguys stepped up to get more of the 1850rpm versions. Hopefully it turns out to be a good investment for them.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-thor-asrix99-nickel-plated-clear.html
> 
> if BP can make one why cant EK?
> 
> omg though I am so freaking excited. now I have 2 x99 boards to watercool I might just have to do dual x99 systems in my RH desk afterall


You should jump all over that







. Do you have a build log for the desk?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

not really. Its just assembly and making a few things fit so theres not much a point at the moment. I plan on making something once I get to the modding phase

I dunno I think I am just gonna toss in something I already have parts for on the other side or leave it as is then use one of the x99 boards purely for benching..

the conundrum with a desk is I can't change out ram sticks in 5seconds, or put any pots on it.

UNLESS!!! another curtain rod mod! yes/ why didnt I think of this before? Just kidding that would be ugly

n basically I am still in design phase of my RH desk not sure where I am currently going since the color schemes for the asrock OCF board and the rve are so different


----------



## VSG

Sooo... http://news.cision.com/asetek/r/asetek-announces-significant-victory-in-intellectual-property-lawsuit,c9698777


----------



## DarthBaggins

So what was copied


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Zee pumps

The Cautious One


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what was copied


The AIOs that weren't Asetek made.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what was copied
> 
> 
> 
> The AIOs that weren't Asetek made.
Click to expand...

Ohh Asetek... does anyone even use their products? I haven't seen anyone with an Asetek cooler except on the R9 295X2.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Ohh Asetek... does anyone even use their products? I haven't seen anyone with an Asetek cooler except on the R9 295X2.


Corsair, NZXT, Cooler Master themselves also as far as I know. Also, Intel and AMD like you pointed out.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what was copied


Like VSG said, pretty much nothing, just the fact that its an AIO. Asetek is being a massive patent troll, that's the reason why you don't see any new non-Asetek AIO's in the US.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

times like this I am glad I have enough spare parts to throw a custom loop together xD

but what about the swifttech cooler thats still being pedaled?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Asetek remind me of rambus. They both could go to hell for what I care.


----------



## Ceadderman

.They obviously had a case against CMI, as CMI stipulated that they did infringe Patent No. 8,240,362. And were found to have traded on Patent No. 8,245,742 also.

I don't understand how people can be negative toward Asetek. They filed the patents and those patents have an expiration date which had not lapsed. Their intellectual property should be upheld and it was. I suspect that if it were your patent rights being violated, you guys would be looking for Agent47 to settle the score.









CM as far as I know didn't go through Asetek. I could be wrong tho, given the two patents.

~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ductien2112*
> 
> Thank you for it,
> 
> In my country (Vietnam), it's very difficult to buy the water cooling accessories (for example: block, fitting, tube, pump, etc) from EU or America cause of oversea payment, shipping cost, policy of the Seller, import tax. So sometimes we have to make it ourselves, I'm using 02 VGAs Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB version
> EKWB, Aquacomputer, XSPC, no one wants to make water block for this VGA (really dont understand why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), therefore I had to made it also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Origin block: too dirty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel coated:
> 
> 
> 
> Back plate DIY:
> 
> 
> Done:






this post wins the thread, possibly for the entire year.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> this post wins the thread, possibly for the entire year.


I agree! hOLY CRAP THATS AWESOME


----------



## WiSK

It's not patent trolling if they did actually invent the all-in-one. Asetek aren't claiming they invented water cooling, only the closed-loop system with integrated pump-block. They should be allowed to protect that invention legally.

The companies that copied the idea initially were all Taiwanese, which is one of a few countries that fall outside the World Intellectual Property Organisation agreement. That's the reason it's taken so long in the courtroom, because Asetek has had to go after the regional distributors instead of the Taiwanese parent companies.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

you know isf the eisberg models infringed as well?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ductien2112*
> 
> Thank you for it,
> 
> In my country (Vietnam), it's very difficult to buy the water cooling accessories (for example: block, fitting, tube, pump, etc) from EU or America cause of oversea payment, shipping cost, policy of the Seller, import tax. So sometimes we have to make it ourselves, I'm using 02 VGAs Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB version
> EKWB, Aquacomputer, XSPC, no one wants to make water block for this VGA (really dont understand why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), therefore I had to made it also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Origin block: too dirty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel coated:
> 
> 
> 
> Back plate DIY:
> 
> 
> Done:


Wow, that's absolutely awesome!
really good job dude! im so jealous


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's not patent trolling if they did actually invent the all-in-one. Asetek aren't claiming they invented water cooling, only the closed-loop system with integrated pump-block. They should be allowed to protect that invention legally.
> 
> The companies that copied the idea initially were all Taiwanese, which is one of a few countries that fall outside the World Intellectual Property Organisation agreement. That's the reason it's taken so long in the courtroom, because Asetek has had to go after the regional distributors instead of the Taiwanese parent companies.


But what about when you patent gpu blocks, even though you've never made nor sold GPU blocks? http://www.brightsideofnews.com/2014/07/02/aseteks-watercooling-patent-will-hurt-consumers/


----------



## skupples

just another broken system that needs an overhaul.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> But what about when you patent gpu blocks, even though you've never made nor sold GPU blocks? http://www.brightsideofnews.com/2014/07/02/aseteks-watercooling-patent-will-hurt-consumers/


Yes, that does look like trolling. But it's an entirely separate patent.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to defend Asetek carte blanche. Just that they should be allowed to get a licence fee for their idea.

Incidentally, Swiftech holds the patents for reservoir + pump combo, but it didn't turn out as popular as putting the pump on the block.


----------



## X-Nine

Fair enough. I agree with you, was just wondering what your stance was is all.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Asetek remind me of rambus. They both could go to hell for what I care.


Yup, eff them post. I won't ever buy anything that benefits Asetek in anyway.


----------



## andre02

Hi

Would a 240mm radiator be sufficient for two high end video cards with no to medium overclock, and keep them let's say somewhere under 60C ? I know that generally it's recommended 120mm + 120mm for each component so 360mm but I don't think it's doable in the case I want to get.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Would a 240mm radiator be sufficient for two high end video cards with no to medium overclock, and keep them let's say somewhere under 60C ? I know that generally it's recommended 120mm + 120mm for each component so 360mm but I don't think it's doable in the case I want to get.


120mm for each component is perfectly doable for stock operation, maybe even a light overclock. Its not going to be super quiet tho. What gpu's do you plan on running?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Looking good! You're getting really good with the acrylic. Now you have me considering redoing some of my bends...


I got a little more practice today







Had to redo 3 different tubes (actually,,, more because one of them gave me fits and had to remake that one several times)

So had those 3 tubes that all leaked, but none of the fittings gave me any problems at all... All the ins and outs with the tubing didn't damage any of the o rings (at least not enough to cause a leak). Very very impressed with the BP enhanced multi-link fittings. You can literally just treat them like push in fittings if you want. It's finnicky but it works.

Also... had major problems with BOTH my Alphacool rads. One of them I actually dropped a couple weeks ago. REALLY dropped. I couldn't get it loose because it was connected to a fan and I disconnected the fan wire and blammo it dropped about 3 feet to the floor and landed directly on the end of the port tank. Was all bent but looked OK--WASn't OK... Had to cap/loctite the bent port and switch to the other side.

Redid the entire build basically, restart the leak test and then the OTHER rad is leaking out one of its ports... Oi Vey. That one must have been from trying to make a tube fit that didn't want to fit... Lesson learned. Bunch more loctite and it's holding for now but those 2 radiators have to go soon. I'll use this rig while I'm working on the NEW build...Single 980/M7H/4.9Ghz DC. Wish I had an exotic new case to put it in with more radiator space. For being huge the 760T's basically can only handle 1x360 and 1x240/280. Lame.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Looking good! You're getting really good with the acrylic. Now you have me considering redoing some of my bends...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a little more practice today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to redo 3 different tubes (actually,,, more because one of them gave me fits and had to remake that one several times)
> 
> So had those 3 tubes that all leaked, but none of the fittings gave me any problems at all... All the ins and outs with the tubing didn't damage any of the o rings (at least not enough to cause a leak). Very very impressed with the BP enhanced multi-link fittings. You can literally just treat them like push in fittings if you want. It's finnicky but it works.
> 
> Also... had major problems with BOTH my Alphacool rads. One of them I actually dropped a couple weeks ago. REALLY dropped. I couldn't get it loose because it was connected to a fan and I disconnected the fan wire and blammo it dropped about 3 feet to the floor and landed directly on the end of the port tank. Was all bent but looked OK--WASn't OK... Had to cap/loctite the bent port and switch to the other side.
> 
> Redid the entire build basically, restart the leak test and then the OTHER rad is leaking out one of its ports... Oi Vey. That one must have been from trying to make a tube fit that didn't want to fit... Lesson learned. Bunch more loctite and it's holding for now but those 2 radiators have to go soon. I'll use this rig while I'm working on the NEW build...Single 980/M7H/4.9Ghz DC. Wish I had an exotic new case to put it in with more radiator space. For being huge the 760T's basically can only handle 1x360 and 1x240/280. Lame.
Click to expand...

Wow . . .

You gotta be careful when you drop an alphastool, they usually stain the floor . . . . .









It may be fate telling you HWL SR2 . . . .

D.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You gotta be careful when you drop an alphastool, they usually stain the floor . . . . .


You really don't like alphacool do you?









I guess I should consider myself lucky I had a relativly clean one with no issues.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wow . . .
> 
> You gotta be careful when you drop an alphastool, they usually stain the floor . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may be fate telling you HWL SR2 . . . .
> 
> D.


The only thing those Alphacool radiators is good for is looks at a scrap heap. At some point I am sure mine will end up there.







Or you do the simple and very satisfying way, get the sledgehammer and knock the rest of the frustration out on it/them. I am going to smash my broken EK-XTX240 now, see you later.









On the other note, the EK-Supremacy EVO I ordered got deleted from the shop I bought it from.


----------



## electro2u

I can't decide on a case to do a new build in... I'm pretty sure I want to change the original plan and not do another 760T. I don't even have the window panel for it. I got the cheaper version on sale for a backup front panel since I scratched mine.

But there is just nothing out there that screams "this is it". CaseLabs is... almost it. 900D is not it. Enthoo is close... but no. So irritating.

I don't even like the MBXForma MKII that is about to go on sale (finally)
It is, however, a step in the right direction, although... I think it's something like $1200USD:


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Spoiler: How I treat a broken radiator










Darn it, did I break it? .... Oh well!









The weirdest thing is that the radiator above never have been damaged in any way, my other EK-XTX240 have quite the dent with the top ports and is still going strong.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How I treat a broken radiator
> 
> 
> 
> Darn it, did I break it? .... Oh well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The weirdest thing is that the radiator above never have been damaged in any way, my other EK-XTX240 have quite the dent with the top ports and is still going strong.










I thought you were kidding!

Did you shoot it with an anti aircraft gun?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you were kidding!
> 
> Did you shoot it with an anti aircraft gun?


The weapon of choice is in the bottom right corner on the last picture, the sledgehammer!









That radiator made me empty 2x EK-XTX240s (or the most of the water from the now destroyed was on the floor), 2x Alphacool Monsta 480s and a MO-RA3 420 of water (about 5 liters) without any drainage system at all (yes, I am a dumbie).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So....the new case I have been going on about....

http://www.hex-gear.com/







Log up tomorrow,Christmas party tonight and im late as it is.......


----------



## VSG

About time too! I couldn't wait to see other people's reactions of this. You have the R40 right?

Edit: I see the changes on the website, the other case has no mention anymore and the guys behind this are now in there. Congrats to Pope and Nate for this, hope it works out great for them.


----------



## emsj86

What brand is that case looks very nice in the market for a nice new case. Something that's a atx maybe mid tower do t want a huge case


----------



## snef

some pics of Icy Blue Angel II


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What brand is that case looks very nice in the market for a nice new case. Something that's a atx maybe mid tower do t want a huge case


m-ATX as per the website.

@Snef: Good job as always, white's definitely your color!


----------



## emsj86

It's back in guild action on the angel I see. Been peaking time to time on your bui log for updates. Love your work


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of Icy Blue Angel II
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa, its almost finished already. Great work man


----------



## lowfat

Interesting design but I don't like the front PSU placement or where they put there cable management holes. Way too close to the motherboard. Tight PET sleeving just wouldn't be able to do those bends.

@B NEGATIVE Idoru as in William Gibson's Idoru?

EDIT: Why can't OCN automatically do mentions w/ just @+name?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> EDIT: Why can't OCN automatically do mentions w/ just @+name?


I see I am not the only one with this peeve. But then again, that @ thing has never worked whenever people mention me so I am inclined to dismiss it anyway.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Interesting design but I don't like the front PSU placement or where they put there cable management holes. Way too close to the motherboard. Tight PET sleeving just wouldn't be able to do those bends.
> 
> @B NEGATIVE Idoru as in William Gibson's Idoru?
> 
> EDIT: Why can't OCN automatically do mentions w/ just @+name?


It is indeed!


----------



## sinnedone

That R40 case definately looks well made, but the front panel needs a little more.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that case is gorgeous. Too bad it's not mITX/ITX.









~Ceadder


----------



## snef

ohhh wait a see, why not a R20 for ITX?


----------



## Ceadderman

They have one? Not sure since I've been away from building for awhile.









~Ceadder


----------



## snef

I don't know but im sure they will not stay with only one case


----------



## Vindicare

Did someone research what 360 radiators fit into the front of the 780T ?


----------



## VSG

You might want to see reviews from OC3D and TastyPC.TV, they do radiator compatibility better than most.

In other news, more PPC discount (http://us1.campaign-archive2.com/?u=c5d0ca22f571464ad3718ac66&id=0169c06da9):
Quote:


> During the holiday season, more than ever, our thoughts turn gratefully to those who have made our progress possible. It is in this spirit we say, simply but, sincerely... Thank you, Merry Christmas and Best Wishes for the Holiday Season! It's not to late to still get your orders in and don't forget we always have Holiday Gift Certificates available that can be emailed instantly.
> 
> Here is a helpful coupon to use Until Christmas Day:
> 
> Spend $50 or more for 8% discount, use: "CHRISTMAS-8"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from December 19th through December 25th 2014. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They have one? Not sure since I've been away from building for awhile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The case got the NDA lifted today so you wouldnt of known anyway.

There is a ITX version in the pipeline....along with other form factors


----------



## littlesackninja

Hello fellow watercoolers, i have recently (2 months ago) taken up watercooling, i didnt have a huge budget so i had to start small, but in 5 days my backplate arrives so i can add my graphics card









The following was taken from my pcpartpicker post, thought i would share it with you here aswell.




Spoiler: Lots and lots of words...


















BloodSlide (Revision R2):
Hi all, this is my build ~~log~~ process, which i did back in August, but i didnt post it then, as i had plans for it, those plans were completed,
but then more... and more... until, i finished the watercooling! So this is my process, i hope you enjoy reading as much as i did writing this; and of course, building it.

Inital plans:
My original plan was to go with a GTX 770 (long before august), and a FX-6300/6350, this was debunked as i saw the awe-inspiring **power** of.......
the 780! (non Ti), but then i soon found out about the R9 290, which i was very close to choosing (More on 290X later), but the thermals were to
high compared to the 780 with no performance increase, so i decided to go with the GTX 780. My original case was the NZXT Phantom, which i know now
is a horrible plastic case, but i hadnt done much research into that area in the ~~_*dawn of time*_~~ beginnning.

Pre-Built?:
I was originally going to get it pre-built, by PcSpecialist, which i was planning to go with for several months, mainly because i obviously didnt
want the risk of breaking anything, and building it yourself can be very daunting for first timers, such as i was, this is also why i thought of
the FX-6300 (Also thought about 8350).

BloodSlide R1 Build (Original build):
Notes: This is the process of my original build R1, which has a couple^literally key changes from R2, first there is no watercooling, second, the graphics card
actually a R9 290X, specifficaly [this](http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/powercolor-video-card-axr9290x4gbd5ppdhe) model, i picked this card over the
780 as it is *slightly* faster, as well as to the 290. I also changed my mind to the NZXT H440, which i had my eye on, but i dismissed it due to no 5.25" bays, but i do like the shroud alot.
One thing to note, this case picks up a **TON** of fingerprints if you have sweaty hands, so try not to handle it, if you do use Tim cleaner.
Start: I gathered all of the components as they all arrived on same day







, so i started putting it together... *with the worst screwdriver ever* so
i quickly popped out and got me' self a nice a' new Philips screwdriver







.
I did the CPU drop well, although i took the cover off so i didnt see it pop off







(Have since done it on other motherboards so i have seen and done it)
CM Hyper 212 Evo made an appearance at first, as i bought one in the beginning to stay frosty, but when i watercooled i sold it to a friend for £5.
I spent *Cough* Some *Cough* time on cable management, but the cables on the case came cable tied down, and i couldnt be bothered cutting it to make it
look better since i cannot see any of it due to aformentioned Power supply shroud.
Problems:
When i dropped the motherboard in, i could not get the io plate to sit flush with it, even though all the screws are in their standoffs, it also means pci cards are at a slight
angle, which isnt a *big* deal, but it could have problems later.
Also my ram didnt arrive until the next day, but i wasnt in so my neighbour took it (Their not thieves i promise! *atleast i hope not...*), and i didnt get it until the day after that







.

The R1.1 Situation:
As you are probably aware, this build list, lists a GTX 780 Ti in the list, the reason i listed it in the list (last of the list words i promise), is because when i got my 290X
its performance was not what i expected, and in some games, and benchmarks, it seemed lower than what it should be getting, and thus as you have probably figured out, i rma'd it
and got a GTX 780 Ti, and that is the 1.1 Revision.

R2 Build (Watercooling^yay):
Notes: My budget for this was small, and i did not plan to do it so soon to my original build; if atall, and thats why i bought a non-k cpu (I know i should of got 4670k, but
i didnt plan on watercooling/overclocking ever).
The dye isnt very strong, you have to put alot of it in to make it go dark red, so i see why people recommend coloured tubing, but i like seeing the fluid, and non was in stock,
other than that the dye is good, and the tubing is XSPC, i tried for PrimoChill, but out of stock everywhere, so i had to make do.
Build: It all went nice and fast, took 1.5 days to build, but it wasnt done for another week because one of my retailers (Overclockers.co.uk) Sent out 2 of the same QD3 Fittings
which are incompatible, has to be 1 Male and 1 Female. So i ordered another pair from them, and guess what? they delivered the same 2 items again! so i was stuck with 4 Female
QD3 fittings holding up my build, so i ordered 1 from Candccentral (Good experience there), and i got the system up 4+ days later, after a 12-16h leak test.

Peripherals:
Mouse:
Love it, 6400 Dpi can be hard to get used to, but it is a very good feeling mouse, recommend it all the way.
Keyboard:
Microsoft.
Headphones:
Professional Citronic DJ headphones, found them at a club, since then i have worn them so much they are being held on by gaffa tape, still love 'em though.
Headset:
Cheap usb headphone and mic combo, but surprisingly good quality, except the solder... and the whole volume panel thing, but audio and mic quality are decent enough, but they arent very comfortable after awhile,
(the solder broke, thus wires being held on by more gaffa tape!).
Mouse mat:
Razer goliathus? Anyway it is a really nice mouse mat, feels lovely with my mouse, like a tactile glide?
Monitor:
This monitor is extremely rare, probably because you can only buy it from PC World in the UK, its a decent monitors, but it is 1440x900, *Wahhhh*
yup, i need a new monitor, but it is decent for now. If you are wondering about it, its called the X19W, not that you should get it.
Paperweight:
I was shopping online for my cpu, and it turns out they give you a free paperweight, it is styled like a air cooler, but its really small, like the size
of the socket, and it even has a working fan an TIM, even has the Intel logo on it with its own pwm fan header to play with!

Conclusion:
I didnt post my GPU idle and load temps because i am going to add my graphics card to my loop in 5 days (Christmas







), so i will update you then, but on air with no OC i get 27c idle
and... *Checks and runs a quick test* *10m of heaven later* 70c Under load, though keep in mind i am not on stock bios.
As the above says, i am not running stock bios, i am currently running the skynet bios, so that changes it up a bit, (been running skynet for 7 hours







)
Reffering to the above, when not on skynet bios, i can get up to +80Mhz on the core, and +350Mhz on the memory, and under load the core will thus run at 1215-1217Mhz (not sure about memory).
Pictures/temps/info on my watercooled 780 Ti coming on christmas day (or just after). My current Best 3Dmark score is [10244](http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2969158), although it is being held back by the physics score alot.
I ran a Crysis 3 Benchmark used here by Guru3D ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khW-iOmlEa4 ), and got a average fps of... *digs through fraps folder* Avg: 65.945 - Min: 35 - Max: 114 (1920x1200 FXAA Very high quality,
Guru3D got 62 Fps with their 780 Ti ( http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gtx-780-ti-sli-geforce-review,19.html )).

So, in the conclusion of my conclusion, i want to say thank you to PcPartPicker, Toms Hardware and its members, Overclock.net and the maker of Skynet (not the terminator one), and
anyone who helped me on this journey not just to Bloodslide, but to my benefactors who have helped grow my knowledge of computers rapidly in the past 5 months.

Any questions/suggestions/constructive criticism is welcome.

Thank you all!

-Littlesackninja



http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/P8XH99


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice...

Need some assistance with my build. I need someone to CNC a MB tray of acrylic for my build. I don't currently have the tools to get it done on my own. I had left a message in the Artisan thread and had promising results, but apparently only Artisans are allowed to post there. So the gentleman in my area that responded is lost on me. I am in Washington state, so the closer the better as I am needing a total of 3 parts fashioned for my current build.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice...
> 
> Need some assistance with my build. I need someone to CNC a MB tray of acrylic for my build. I don't currently have the tools to get it done on my own. I had left a message in the Artisan thread and had promising results, but apparently only Artisans are allowed to post there. So the gentleman in my area that responded is lost on me. I am in Washington state, so the closer the better as I am needing a total of 3 parts fashioned for my current build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Do you have a drawing or design plan?
I can make you a DXF/DWG/SLDPRT file ready for CNC,Nate at E22 can make it


----------



## Ceadderman

I have most of the specs worked out. Not sure if I want it 20x20 with mount worked in for vertical 360 and L channel for direct flow from GPU array to the Left door 360 that would be mounted to the tray. Gonna need slots cut for rear PCI slots as well. Since I have removed storage and 5.25 bay I need to have mounts fabricated for my RAID 0 behind the MB with enough room for LED strips outlining standard ATX mount but hidden from view. The L channel needs to be red/white acrylic same thickness as the tray so that it blends in with my white tubing/color scheme. Planned to mock a template up on Sunday using cereal boxes for flexibility and durability.









If I don't have a mount fashioned then the lentgh would be 15.25 inches to allow for mounting exactly as I intend to mount the Right door 360 which will be directly opposite from the left door unit.

Also needing to CNC the top panel to allow for the 360 shroud that lines up with the 360 that will be mounted horizontally inside the 932 that I am modding. That's not the only acrylic I need to have cut but it's the stuff that I am not tooled for.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tunz

I'm redoing my loop next week and need some advice. I'm changing my GPUs from series to parallel, and was wondering if this path will work. The order would be Res>Pump(D5)>360 rad>Video cards>480 rad>Mosfet block>CPU>Back through the video cards>res. Now from the small amount of reading I've done, the flow rate would be heavily impacted going this route, is that correct?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice...
> 
> Need some assistance with my build. I need someone to CNC a MB tray of acrylic for my build. I don't currently have the tools to get it done on my own. I had left a message in the Artisan thread and had promising results, but apparently only Artisans are allowed to post there. So the gentleman in my area that responded is lost on me. I am in Washington state, so the closer the better as I am needing a total of 3 parts fashioned for my current build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


SniperTeamTango & TLHarrell might be able to help you. they are stateside & just small hobbyists AFAIK, so they wouldn't charge you a small fortune I reckon.

if you need any help turning your designs into cad drawings as Bneg offered. im willing to help also.









im uk based, so its pointless me doing it for you as postage to the US is scandalous









good luck though. but try them 2 guys I mentioned, it cant hurt to ask?


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I'm redoing my loop next week and need some advice. I'm changing my GPUs from series to parallel, and was wondering if this path will work. The order would be Res>Pump(D5)>360 rad>Video cards>480 rad>Mosfet block>CPU>Back through the video cards>res. Now from the small amount of reading I've done, the flow rate would be heavily impacted going this route, is that correct?


bad news. you have three circuits in parallel: (gpu1), (gpu2), and (rad/mobo/cpu). the cpu circuit is the highest resistance of the three parallel paths, so you will get much less flow through this path than through the gpus. in other words, cpu flow rate will be less than 1/3 of pump flow rate-- probably a lot less.


----------



## skupples

yeah, not really sure why you would push dual-GPU with parallel, might as well stick with serial.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> bad news. you have three circuits in parallel: (gpu1), (gpu2), and (rad/mobo/cpu). the cpu circuit is the highest resistance of the three parallel paths, so you will get much less flow through this path than through the gpus. in other words, cpu flow rate will be less than 1/3 of pump flow rate-- probably a lot less.


Ok thanks for confirming that. Rep+

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yeah, not really sure why you would push dual-GPU with parallel, might as well stick with serial.


Honestly just for aesthetics. I have the EK FC terminal and while it works great, I'm kind of tired of looking at it. Oh well, I still have some time to figure out what I'm going to do.

Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Ok thanks for confirming that. Rep+
> Honestly just for aesthetics. I have the EK FC terminal and while it works great, I'm kind of tired of looking at it. Oh well, I still have some time to figure out what I'm going to do.
> 
> Thanks for the help guys.


I don't think it will make a huge difference either way, i run parallel on 3x GPUs, 4x 480s, CPU, full mobo, & temps are like 1-2C higher than they would eb in serial, for the GPUs... though I am pushing 2x MCP35x2 @ 100% (60%)

funny thing, i'm getting higher flow rates w/ 4x 480s than I was w/ 3x 480 and 1x 360.. go figure, totally counter intuitive since all 480s are >40mm. it's right around 300L/h, while before was ~250L/h


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice...
> 
> Need some assistance with my build. I need someone to CNC a MB tray of acrylic for my build. I don't currently have the tools to get it done on my own. I had left a message in the Artisan thread and had promising results, but apparently only Artisans are allowed to post there. So the gentleman in my area that responded is lost on me. I am in Washington state, so the closer the better as I am needing a total of 3 parts fashioned for my current build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SniperTeamTango & TLHarrell might be able to help you. they are stateside & just small hobbyists AFAIK, so they wouldn't charge you a small fortune I reckon.
> 
> if you need any help turning your designs into cad drawings as Bneg offered. im willing to help also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im uk based, so its pointless me doing it for you as postage to the US is scandalous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good luck though. but try them 2 guys I mentioned, it cant hurt to ask?
Click to expand...

TY for the response. Got a message back from the mod that exterminated wep my initial inquiry in Artisan thread and he's gonna get me the name of the member that offered assistance. Hopefully we can pick the ball up and. Run with it.









TY all and if things can't be brought along expeditiously I will fall back to your helpful suggestions. Much appreciated.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't think it will make a huge difference either way, i run parallel on 3x GPUs, 4x 480s, CPU, full mobo, & temps are like 1-2C higher than they would eb in serial, for the GPUs... though I am pushing 2x MCP35x2 @ 100% (60%)
> 
> funny thing, i'm getting higher flow rates w/ 4x 480s than I was w/ 3x 480 and 1x 360.. go figure, totally counter intuitive since all 480s are >40mm. it's right around 300L/h, while before was ~250L/h


Maybe I'll play around with some different configurations and see how it goes, I have plenty of tubing.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Maybe I'll play around with some different configurations and see how it goes, I have plenty of tubing.


how much pump do you have?

there's definitely a marked drop in flow rates, but the question is if that will actually present its self as an increase in temps, which is based off of pumps & GPU blocks being used.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> how much pump do you have?
> 
> there's definitely a marked drop in flow rates, but the question is if that will actually present its self as an increase in temps, which is based off of pumps & GPU blocks being used.


Just a single d5 Vario. GPU blocks are EK FC780ti.


----------



## littlesackninja

Can someone suggest me a good cheap D5 Pump/res combo unit, need an upgrade for when i add another rad, looking between a UT60 240mm and Monsta 240mm, maybe even 280mm.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *littlesackninja*
> 
> Can someone suggest me a good cheap D5 Pump/res combo unit, need an upgrade for when i add another rad, looking between a UT60 240mm and Monsta 240mm, maybe even 280mm.


This is probably the way to go:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21023/ex-pmp-252/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-XRES_140_D5_Vario_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s152

Personally i absolutely love my Monsoon D5 dual bay reservoir/pump. My kid freaks out when he comes into my room because it's really pretty once installed with the LED lighting in it.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Just lapped my EK Supremacy Block, and getting ready to do the same with the Supremacy EVO. I am getting rather terrible Temps out of Both, and when I requested to have the block replaced due to bowing in the center, EK said it was normal and that I shouldn't lap the block. Well, I will test their theory in the near future, but for now, here is a few picture of the steps along the way.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New log up!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1531403/hexgear-idoru/0_20#post_23302556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Just lapped my EK Supremacy Block, and getting ready to do the same with the Supremacy EVO. I am getting rather terrible Temps out of Both, and when I requested to have the block replaced due to bowing in the center, EK said it was normal and that I shouldn't lap the block. Well, I will test their theory in the near future, but for now, here is a few picture of the steps along the way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












They are correct,the bow is supposed to be there,it creates a better contact patch.

Why on earth did you lap the block and not the chip?


----------



## littlesackninja

Do you know if there is a big difference between these 2 pump/res combo units?
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-100-d5-pwm-incl-pump.html
and:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-140-d5-pwm-incl-pump.html

I know one has a bigger res, but that doesnt really matter to me, is there a reason to get the second one?
I will be running 1x360mm 45mm rad, 1x240mm (maybe 280mm) 60 or 80mm rad, 1 EK Fullcover graphics card block, and 1 EK CPU Block.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *littlesackninja*
> 
> Do you know if there is a big difference between these 2 pump/res combo units?
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-100-d5-pwm-incl-pump.html
> and:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-140-d5-pwm-incl-pump.html
> 
> I know one has a bigger res, but that doesnt really matter to me, is there a reason to get the second one?
> I will be running 1x360mm 45mm rad, 1x240mm (maybe 280mm) 60 or 80mm rad, 1 EK Fullcover graphics card block, and 1 EK CPU Block.


Depends on how much space you have, if you can fit the 140 I'd get that one. It'll look a bit nicer in a bigger case.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Just lapped my EK Supremacy Block, and getting ready to do the same with the Supremacy EVO. I am getting rather terrible Temps out of Both, and when I requested to have the block replaced due to bowing in the center, EK said it was normal and that I shouldn't lap the block. Well, I will test their theory in the near future, but for now, here is a few picture of the steps along the way.


lmao


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New log up!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1531403/hexgear-idoru/0_20#post_23302556
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are correct,the bow is supposed to be there,it creates a better contact patch.
> 
> Why on earth did you lap the block and not the chip?


$100 block... $1050 CPU..

The contact patch is strictly in the very center of the CPU, and making it so the TIM doesn't spread at all. When I say that, I mean that it is causing 90% of the TIM to bunch up just outside of the center of the CPU.

Placing the CPU on a piece of glass, with TIM in between, the tim spreads all the way to the edge of the CPU. Doing the same with the Block, it won't spread past the center, as seen with the CPU. I would rather try out lapping something that doesn't matter, over lapping something that does and losing a $1000 warranty if something goes wrong with the CPU. I guess my priorities are wrong.

Also, Spare block. If it works better than the crappy main block, then it will no longer be the spare.


----------



## littlesackninja

You have 999 posts, congratulations on your next post.
Anyway, thanks, I'll get the 140 Version then, but do you know if they come with mounting options for a 120mm fan, because the "UNI Holder" has a circular cutout, but that is for the pump?
Also do you think it is better if i just buy a new pump, rather than a combo unit, but i thought my old DCP pump would hold it back, or break by not keeping up?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> lmao


I take a kick in the butt for lapping this, rather than going with EK's suggest to delid a 5960x.


----------



## lowfat

All water blocks are bowed on purpose and have been this way for 7-8 years. You don't lap them. Even if you lapped them completely flat you will get worse temps. Since waterblocks are mounted with pressure on the 4 outside corners, it is a lot flatter when mounted in place on top the CPU. Sorry but you ruined your block.









When has someone actually ever RMA'd a CPU? The only way you'll kill one is by negligence or by throwing INSANE amounts of voltage through it.


----------



## pc-illiterate

isnt the haswell-e ihs soldered on? ek wouldnt tell you to delid it...


----------



## Agenesis

Let us know the results scarlet. I asked if having 10c variances between cores is normal on the Haswell-e thread and everyone said they were getting the same 10c difference. I tested several chips personally and they were all the same so I thought it was my waterblock initially.

Man I must have wasted like $40 worth of tim remounting the blocks. It's not that one of the core is overheating but it's just annoying to look at.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I can't decide on a case to do a new build in... I'm pretty sure I want to change the original plan and not do another 760T. I don't even have the window panel for it. I got the cheaper version on sale for a backup front panel since I scratched mine.
> 
> But there is just nothing out there that screams "this is it". CaseLabs is... almost it. 900D is not it. Enthoo is close... but no. So irritating.
> 
> I don't even like the MBXForma MKII that is about to go on sale (finally)
> It is, however, a step in the right direction, although... I think it's something like $1200USD:
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2288220/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


To me, that $1200 case looks like a modded TJ-11


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So....the new case I have been going on about....
> 
> http://www.hex-gear.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Log up tomorrow,Christmas party tonight and im late as it is.......


Very nice. I love how dynamic and inventive the small water cooling friendly case market has become. They make the large case, Caselabs monotony seem so boring.

Can't wait to see more of this case and any others they have in the works.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> To me, that $1200 case looks like a modded TJ-11


It is. But it is the best engineered case on the market by a ridiculous amount.

EDIT: Meant TJ07.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> All water blocks are bowed on purpose and have been this way for 7-8 years. You don't lap them. Even if you lapped them completely flat you will get worse temps. Since waterblocks are mounted with pressure on the 4 outside corners, it is a lot flatter when mounted in place on top the CPU. Sorry but you ruined your block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When has someone actually ever RMA'd a CPU? The only way you'll kill one is by negligence or by throwing INSANE amounts of voltage through it.


I just got a 3930k back that I had bought second hand. A brand new one came in, and I sold to get a 3960x for a $400.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> isnt the haswell-e ihs soldered on? ek wouldnt tell you to delid it...


Once I get everything put back together, I will share the email.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Let us know the results scarlet. I asked if having 10c variances between cores is normal on the Haswell-e thread and everyone said they were getting the same 10c difference. I tested several chips personally and they were all the same so I thought it was my waterblock initially.
> 
> Man I must have wasted like $40 worth of tim remounting the blocks. It's not that one of the core is overheating but it's just annoying to look at.


I have come to find that 82c and throttling with a good mount is still crap. I have been using washers on the block side of the pressure springs to cause more pressure, which in turn lowered the temps almost 10c.

On another note:
If you loosen the 4 corner screws on these blocks, just 1 full turn, they are nearly flat. When you tighten them back down, the very center protrudes to where a reflection isn't even distinguishable. I would rather ruin a block trying something new, over lapping the cpu and getting screwed on a warranty. If this were a golden chip, he'll, it wouldn't be a bad thing. It requires 1.39v to run 4.5ghz, so it's not like it is going to live forever. I would rather get a new one sooner than later, and not have to spend 1000 to do so. Being as the 3930k was run the same way, and Intel isn't actually spending that much to make these chips, I don't mind sending them back and getting new ones.

If you have the money to lap every cpu you get, please feel free to send me a new chip and I will lap the crap out of it. Until then, the base of a block cost $45 to replace... I don't give a Damn about the block.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> All water blocks are bowed on purpose and have been this way for 7-8 years. You don't lap them. Even if you lapped them completely flat you will get worse temps. Since waterblocks are mounted with pressure on the 4 outside corners, it is a lot flatter when mounted in place on top the CPU. Sorry but you ruined your block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When has someone actually ever RMA'd a CPU? The only way you'll kill one is by negligence or by throwing INSANE amounts of voltage through it.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got a 3930k back that I had bought second hand. A brand new one came in, and I sold to get a 3960x for a $400.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> isnt the haswell-e ihs soldered on? ek wouldnt tell you to delid it...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Once I get everything put back together, I will share the email.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Let us know the results scarlet. I asked if having 10c variances between cores is normal on the Haswell-e thread and everyone said they were getting the same 10c difference. I tested several chips personally and they were all the same so I thought it was my waterblock initially.
> 
> Man I must have wasted like $40 worth of tim remounting the blocks. It's not that one of the core is overheating but it's just annoying to look at.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have come to find that 82c and throttling with a good mount is still crap. I have been using washers on the block side of the pressure springs to cause more pressure, which in turn lowered the temps almost 10c.
> 
> On another note:
> If you loosen the 4 corner screws on these blocks, just 1 full turn, they are nearly flat. When you tighten them back down, the very center protrudes to where a reflection isn't even distinguishable. I would rather ruin a block trying something new, over lapping the cpu and getting screwed on a warranty. If this were a golden chip, he'll, it wouldn't be a bad thing. It requires 1.39v to run 4.5ghz, so it's not like it is going to live forever. I would rather get a new one sooner than later, and not have to spend 1000 to do so. Being as the 3930k was run the same way, and Intel isn't actually spending that much to make these chips, I don't mind sending them back and getting new ones.
> 
> If you have the money to lap every cpu you get, please feel free to send me a new chip and I will lap the crap out of it. Until then, the base of a block cost $45 to replace... I don't give a Damn about the block.
Click to expand...

That part about loosening the corner screws and seeing the block flatten out is part of the design . . . .

That's why different jet plates for different CPU sizes . . the plates are not all the same thickness.

They are designed to create bow when the screws are tightened.

The 2011 CPU is the largest and gets the thickest plate so it has the most bow, so when it's all brought to torque, it's flat on the whole CPU.

The smaller CPUs have thinner plates and a little less bow.

If somehow you end up with better temps, it isn't from lapping the block, it's from some other variable you didn't take into consideration somewhere.

Darlene


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> To me, that $1200 case looks like a modded TJ-11


Actually it's based off the TJ-07, not the TJ-11.

Edit: And if you were wondering why a modded TJ-07 would cost $1200, just look at this.
I would say $1200 isn't even that expensive for what you're getting.


----------



## lowfat

I pre-ordered the MurderBox the first two times they tried to sell it. But unfortunately 3 years later it just doesn't suit my needs. The nifty drive cage they designed would be completely unused.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I pre-ordered the MurderBox the first two times they tried to sell it. But unfortunately 3 years later it just doesn't suit my needs. The nifty drive cage the designed would be completely unused.


Agreed ... too late unfortunately. As nice as it is, for that money I would go full custom.

Like who uses poweradjusts since the AQ6 came out.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Agreed ... too late unfortunately. As nice as it is, for that money I would go full custom.


Yeah... it's really an amazing case but I don't want to spend 1200 dollars. I'm really eyeing a CaseLabs chassis but they aren't exactly what I want but there just isn't anything that is... if anyone can think of anything off the beaten path that might suit my needs for an ATX case please speak up. I've looked at *everything* that is common and I'm unimpressed by pretty much anything and everything. Money isn't really an issue but I'd rather stay under $800.

The guy from Singularity Computers is apparently starting up a line of cases! I bet he will come up with something really nice.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Let us know the results scarlet. I asked if having 10c variances between cores is normal on the Haswell-e thread and everyone said they were getting the same 10c difference. I tested several chips personally and they were all the same so I thought it was my waterblock initially.
> 
> Man I must have wasted like $40 worth of tim remounting the blocks. It's not that one of the core is overheating but it's just annoying to look at.


No change in performance, but the TIM spread perfect... Stuck my fingers in the TIM while pulling it off, so excuse the finger smudges.



This is what I could get before with the same block: 

Since there was still no change, I have pulled a 480mm radiator out of the th10a, grabbed a spare D5, and put the original main block on with slightly thicker washers. Going to give that a try once I get it all bled.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That part about loosening the corner screws and seeing the block flatten out is part of the design . . . .
> 
> That's why different jet plates for different CPU sizes . . the plates are not all the same thickness.
> 
> They are designed to create bow when the screws are tightened.
> 
> The 2011 CPU is the largest and gets the thickest plate so it has the most bow, so when it's all brought to torque, it's flat on the whole CPU.
> 
> The smaller CPUs have thinner plates and a little less bow.
> 
> If somehow you end up with better temps, it isn't from lapping the block, it's from some other variable you didn't take into consideration somewhere.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you for explaining the jets. I have never seen it explained like that.

I am trying the Supremacy Evo with thicker washers to cause more pressure to see if that will help.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> isnt the haswell-e ihs soldered on? ek wouldnt tell you to delid it...


They were specifically referring to 1155/1150 sockets, so you can tell they were sending out a generic response and didn't edit it after I stated that it was a Haswell-E CPU, so I was off saying that they told me to delid it. The fact that it was part of the response after stating the CPU is what my brain focused on.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That part about loosening the corner screws and seeing the block flatten out is part of the design . . . .
> 
> That's why different jet plates for different CPU sizes . . the plates are not all the same thickness.
> 
> They are designed to create bow when the screws are tightened.
> 
> The 2011 CPU is the largest and gets the thickest plate so it has the most bow, so when it's all brought to torque, it's flat on the whole CPU.
> 
> The smaller CPUs have thinner plates and a little less bow.
> 
> If somehow you end up with better temps, it isn't from lapping the block, it's from some other variable you didn't take into consideration somewhere.
> 
> Darlene


The LGA 2011-3 jetplate for the Supremacy Evo is the thinnest of the three. But it still fits your explanation given the nature of the IHS.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That part about loosening the corner screws and seeing the block flatten out is part of the design . . . .
> 
> That's why different jet plates for different CPU sizes . . the plates are not all the same thickness.
> 
> They are designed to create bow when the screws are tightened.
> 
> The 2011 CPU is the largest and gets the thickest plate so it has the most bow, so when it's all brought to torque, it's flat on the whole CPU.
> 
> The smaller CPUs have thinner plates and a little less bow.
> 
> If somehow you end up with better temps, it isn't from lapping the block, it's from some other variable you didn't take into consideration somewhere.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> The LGA 2011-3 jetplate for the Supremacy Evo is the thinnest of the three. But it still fits your explanation given the nature of the IHS.
Click to expand...

Good information, since S-T mentioned also having an Evo and a 5960, iirc. . . . and I don't have an Evo yet to have picked up on that.

D.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So....the new case I have been going on about....
> 
> http://www.hex-gear.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Log up tomorrow,Christmas party tonight and im late as it is.......
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. I love how dynamic and inventive the small water cooling friendly case market has become. They make the large case, Caselabs monotony seem so boring.
> 
> Can't wait to see more of this case and any others they have in the works.
Click to expand...

What I like about this case is its 2d design for the panels,you want something different then its just a laser job which is far cheaper than milling it.
Mine is having the front acrylic jacked out to 25mm then having a full front res with the cover over it

Im not giving a lot away as there are a few logs up with this case and I dont want them pikeying my ideas.


----------



## lucas.vulcan

HAF-XB table bench

CPU: i7 4790K @.... WC
Carte-mère: Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H
Cartes graphiques: sli Evga GTX 580 FTW hydro copper 2 : 950/1050 WC
Mémoires: Adata XPG V1 2X4Go 1600 9-9-9-24-1T
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 125 Go
HDD: Seagate 1TB Barracuda 7200trs/min - SATA III 6 Gb/s X2
PSU: Antec HCG 850
Écran: LG 34UM65 (2560 x 1080) 21:9
OS: Windows 7 ultimate
Boitier: Bench table
WC: pump= D5, rad= quad 480 DS480-P, cpu block= EK-Supremacy EVO
reservoir= XSPC D5 Tank Reservoir, tube= 3/8″ ID, 5/8″ OD, fans= 8x Gentle typhoon
Clavier: Zalman K500 mécanique
Souris: G700s


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/f03YpQulj

https://imageshack.com/i/eyxYzrfNj

Not sure what case i'm going to go for next but i had felt like i needed new rads.

XSPC EX 240 and 360 crossflow + RXV3 240 and 360, really struggling to think of a case to go for.. i'm only going to be fitting a 360 and 240 in it whatever i go for.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=https://imageshack.com/i/f03YpQulj][/URL]
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/eyxYzrfNj
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what case i'm going to go for next but i had felt like i needed new rads.
> 
> XSPC EX 240 and 360 crossflow + RXV3 240 and 360, really struggling to think of a case to go for.. i'm only going to be fitting a 360 and 240 in it whatever i go for.


I thought I read a couple Places that the Crossflows were a No go due to... Restriction... and... Yea. Something negative has always been in the back of my mind when looking at crossflow XSPC

The Cautious One


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Just lapped my EK Supremacy Block, and getting ready to do the same with the Supremacy EVO. I am getting rather terrible Temps out of Both, and when I requested to have the block replaced due to bowing in the center, EK said it was normal and that I shouldn't lap the block. Well, I will test their theory in the near future, but for now, here is a few picture of the steps along the way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

It's official









Parts on the way:
EVGA G2 1300W
2x Aquacomputer 290X copper+acrylic waterblocks
2x Aquacomputer 290X passive backplates (was going to go active but saw reviews showing no gains)
Aquacomputer CFX terminal

Gonna see what these Sapphire Tri-X can do!


----------



## inedenimadam

I am kicking around a build idea that would place a rad box in a separate dedicated "utility" room.

What specs should I be paying attention to when choosing a pump(s)?

looking at either a 12" straight drop with minimal lateral travel, or 10" lateral with 4" drop.

head pressure? GPM? I only have a rough understanding of how these need to be accounted for, any guidance would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I am kicking around a build idea that would place a rad box in a separate dedicated "utility" room.
> 
> What specs should I be paying attention to when choosing a pump(s)?
> 
> looking at either a 12" straight drop with minimal lateral travel, or 10" lateral with 4" drop.
> 
> head pressure? GPM? I only have a rough understanding of how these need to be accounted for, any guidance would be greatly appreciated.


It's a bit dated now, but this might help you.

http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/MartinsFlowRateEstimator.html


----------



## By-Tor

Moving to Intel and had to have a new block to fit the 1150 socket.

Swiftech Apogee XL ROG block for my new Asus Maximus VII Hero MB.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What I like about this case is its 2d design for the panels,you want something different then its just a laser job which is far cheaper than milling it.
> Mine is having the front acrylic jacked out to 25mm then having a full front res with the cover over it
> 
> Im not giving a lot away as there are a few logs up with this case and I dont want them pikeying my ideas.


While I like that particular case from all angles theres 2 small things that could be done a little better. The first is the front panel. It just lacks any depth and seems to take away from the rest of it. Maybe some 5mm thick panels on top to create some depth or something. SOme design othern than the flat hexagon grille holes. The second are the acrylic case feet. Seem more like an afterthought to fix a problem with it not standing correctly.

I'm hoping you and the others are allowed to add a little flair to these ares to make it pop a little more.


----------



## Goofy Flow

Some shots of my Parvum Color x


----------



## By-Tor

Very nice.... Great Work!!


----------



## lowfat

Looks awesome.


----------



## VSG

Nice and clean, I love it!


----------



## mixsetup

Like the white looks wicked.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Some shots of my Parvum Color x
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bravo.









The Cautious One


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I thought I read a couple Places that the Crossflows were a No go due to... Restriction... and... Yea. Something negative has always been in the back of my mind when looking at crossflow XSPC
> 
> The Cautious One


The Black Ice GT Xflow 240 I run works like a champ, but I'm running Distilled w/ Mayhems' dye so no nano particles to cause issues if there happened to be restrictions in flow


----------



## By-Tor

The Hero with the waterblock on it....


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> The Hero with the waterblock on it....


Oeh, I like it.
Is that actually a stock block top?

*A little poll for you guys!







*
What do you guys prefer, and why, as a gpu block?

Copper or Nickel plated
Plexi or Acetal top is probably a personal opinion only, but still..
Are there any differences in performance? Nickel is more expensive, but copper conducts heat better?
What about corrosion? I have a UT60 rad. which is full copper, right? And using a copper cpu block(EK Supremacy Evo).
Fittings are mostly Nickel plated if I'm right. Bitspower barbs, 2 90 Rotary's, and a few EK CSQ black's(are these brass?). Now I think of the CSQ fittings. Isn't it risky to run brass and copper in the same loop?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> The Hero with the waterblock on it....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oeh, I like it.
> Is that actually a stock block top?
> 
> *A little poll for you guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> What do you guys prefer, and why, as a gpu block?
> 
> Copper or Nickel plated
> Plexi or Acetal top is probably a personal opinion only, but still..
> *
> Are there any differences in performance? Nickel is more expensive, but copper conducts heat better?*
> What about corrosion? I have a UT60 rad. which is full copper, right? And using a copper cpu block(EK Supremacy Evo).
> Fittings are mostly Nickel plated if I'm right. Bitspower barbs, 2 90 Rotary's, and a few EK CSQ black's(are these brass?). Now I think of the CSQ fittings. Isn't it risky to run brass and copper in the same loop?
Click to expand...

There are no thermal differences between the two.


----------



## aka13

I like acetal plating. Plex looks mostly like all-plex-cases pretty terrible. Going with plex requires a plex case/plex theme, otherwise it just ruins it.


----------



## psycho84

First Pics from my new S8


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I like acetal plating. Plex looks mostly like all-plex-cases pretty terrible. Going with plex requires a plex case/plex theme, otherwise it just ruins it.


acetal is not a plating. it is a plastic.
as far as plexiglass (acrylic), everyone is entitled to their own opinion, oh thank goodness.


----------



## aka13

Sorry, english is not native for me. I meant, that I prefer the outsinde of my parts covered with acetal, instead of see-through acryl.


----------



## Agenesis

Do you guys know where Sidewinder sources their Durelene tubing? I can't find any info on it.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Do you guys know where Sidewinder sources their Durelene tubing? I can't find any info on it.


I haven't talked to Gary in a while, but you could try giving him a call.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> The Hero with the waterblock on it....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oeh, I like it.
> Is that actually a stock block top? [...]
Click to expand...

That's a Swiftech Apogee XL CPU block with a custom laser cut ROG plate by Performance PC's. They have several different logos for it available or you can have one custom made with your own design.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Swiftech+Apogee+XL+Custom


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's a Swiftech Apogee XL CPU block with a custom laser cut ROG plate by Performance PC's. They have several different logos for it available or you can have one custom made with your own design.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Swiftech+Apogee+XL+Custom


Thats pretty bad ass.
Whish they made custom tops for Supremacy blocks


----------



## skupples

is the wire for the LEDs or does it have an integrated pump?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> is the wire for the LEDs or does it have an integrated pump?


Its for the LED.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> is the wire for the LEDs or does it have an integrated pump?


It's for the LED

EDIT: Ninja'd by Gilles3000








Damn, I was 2 second late


----------



## emsj86

I will be doing petg tubing this coming week when i have a few days off for christmas. I got primochill tubing, primochill revolver fittings, some 90s and everything but manderals. what some good ideas for bending. My idea was to use my cutting mat that has a grid which i can use to keep lines straight and measure distance of offset from bends. Basically im asking if anyone has any good advise before i start to make my bending easier or better looking?


----------



## WiSK

Did anyone use these polycarb fittings by Geno/Boxgods back in the day?


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I will be doing petg tubing this coming week when i have a few days off for christmas. I got primochill tubing, primochill revolver fittings, some 90s and everything but manderals. what some good ideas for bending. My idea was to use my cutting mat that has a grid which i can use to keep lines straight and measure distance of offset from bends. Basically im asking if anyone has any good advise before i start to make my bending easier or better looking?


It's just going to take practice. Don't get discouraged by your first bends. I didn't use the mandrels but an empty roll of Teflon as a guide. In the end I was free handing it. My bends are not perfect but good enough for my first try. Just don't get in a hurry or panic. Do your single bend lines first as the ones with multiple bends are far more challenging unless you have all the measurements and mandrels planned out perfectly. Even then I'm willing to bet the multiple bends are more of a challenge.

The grid might work but honestly any 90 degree on paper would. It wont help you if you have anything that's not 90 though. I made use of the measuring kit that I think Primochill made. Bunch of short rulers to take the guess work out of your measurements. Probably the best tool I could have bought.


----------



## Ceadderman

Tbh, I would look for a reasonably priced mandrel. I bought the 5/8" Monsoon kit but it comes w/ case over gloves. I wanted the case but don't uderstand why the gloves didn't come with the entire kit, when they are included in the smaller kits PPCs sells. Contacted them about it but never heard anything back.









Get mandrels though. Much better for getting smooth clean bends so long as you get the tubing hot enough that it threatens to fold on its own before applying your bend.

~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> It's just going to take practice. Don't get discouraged by your first bends. I didn't use the mandrels but an empty roll of Teflon as a guide. In the end I was free handing it. My bends are not perfect but good enough for my first try. Just don't get in a hurry or panic. Do your single bend lines first as the ones with multiple bends are far more challenging unless you have all the measurements and mandrels planned out perfectly. Even then I'm willing to bet the multiple bends are more of a challenge.
> 
> The grid might work but honestly any 90 degree on paper would. It wont help you if you have anything that's not 90 though. I made use of the measuring kit that I think Primochill made. Bunch of short rulers to take the guess work out of your measurements. Probably the best tool I could have bought.


Yah! Free handing the bends is pretty easy actually. I found I usually needed to go just a *tiny* bit further than the angle I needed because the 13/16mm silicon insert I was using was so strong it would pull the acrylic back towards straight just a bit unless I held the tubing at its angle for a while until it cooled.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Did anyone use these polycarb fittings by Geno/Boxgods back in the day?






they look scary.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> they look scary.


Yeah, Bitspower made-of-acrylic stop fittings tend to shatter if you accidentally put ever so slightly too much pressure when tightening the fitting. I wouldn't want my compressions to be made of acrylic at all. Stuff is too fragile for that sort of application.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Yeah, Bitspower made-of-acrylic stop fittings tend to shatter if you accidentally put ever so slightly too much pressure when tightening the fitting. I wouldn't want my compressions to be made of acrylic at all. Stuff is too fragile for that sort of application.


Well... I have a couple Bitspower crystal LED stop fittings I use for the top of my Bay Res and they leak if I tilt the case unless I tweak the crap out of them. Since they are hidden I literally tighten them with needle nose pliers. They are very stout. Gouge marks all over them but no cracks.

I have tried the same thing with some alphacool acrylic fittings and they broke very easily.


----------



## skupples

I'm a wuss, the only place I use acrylic plugs are on my reservoirs, or ends of drain valves.


----------



## WiSK

Guys, they are made of polycarbonate, comparisons with acrylic misplaced









I was more wondering about the looks when you shove a piece of tubing in there. I'm kind of so-so about the stripes, and don't think they'll polish up very clear. If anyone ever used them and has any photos in a build - would be appreciated


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Guys, they are made of polycarbonate, comparisons with acrylic misplaced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was more wondering about the looks when you shove a piece of tubing in there. I'm kind of so-so about the stripes, and don't think they'll polish up very clear. If anyone ever used them and has any photos in a build - would be appreciated


I haven't used them, so no photos, but as you said, polycarbonate is NOT acrylic.

Think Lexan or Perspex guys . . . that's a couple name brands of polycarbonate.

That stuff is tough and doesn't shatter like acrylic . . . it also isn't as clear and doesn't polish clear like acrylic.

If they came in sizes for 3/8" X 1/2" or 7/16" X 5/8", (the more flexible sizes of tubing) They'd look pretty slick with acrylic blocks and clear tubing.

Darlene


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I haven't used them, so no photos, but as you said, polycarbonate is NOT acrylic.
> 
> Think Lexan or Perspex guys . . . that's a couple name brands of polycarbonate.
> 
> That stuff is tough and doesn't shatter like acrylic . . . it also isn't as clear and doesn't polish clear like acrylic.


Yep ...

A lot of corrective eye glass lenses are polycarbonate. It's scratch/crack resistant but tough to polish clear because it's such a hard material


----------



## emsj86

I haven't seen anyone do it this way but I bend copper all the time at work and have all different size tubing cutters and a pair of PVC cutters. I was thinking of using the tubing cutters to cut the petg bc they make a perfect straight cut. I have tubing benders but afraid they may leave small scuffs when bending


----------



## emsj86

So how do you guys know your offset from where the bend begins to where it ends. For example say I need a 3 inch piece from gpu to rad with a 90. I would need compensate the offset of the bend as to not under or over shoot. My plan was to use a small piece and bend it around Mylar shift wooden manderal. Than measure from start to end or there an easier way?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So how do you guys know your offset from where the bend begins to where it ends. For example say I need a 3 inch piece from gpu to rad with a 90. I would need compensate the offset of the bend as to not under or over shoot. My plan was to use a small piece and bend it around Mylar shift wooden manderal. Than measure from start to end or there an easier way?


By using the mandrels themselves as the measuring tool. Then throw a piece of blue masking tape on the tubing where I need to start the bend (edge of mandrel).

I do not think the copper bending tools will work.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Yep ...
> 
> A lot of corrective eye glass lenses are polycarbonate. It's scratch/crack resistant but tough to polish clear because it's such a hard material


shhhh, you're temping LowFat to go on a polishing spree.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So how do you guys know your offset from where the bend begins to where it ends. For example say I need a 3 inch piece from gpu to rad with a 90. I would need compensate the offset of the bend as to not under or over shoot. My plan was to use a small piece and bend it around Mylar shift wooden manderal. Than measure from start to end or there an easier way?


I use the Monsoon Bending kit. The rulers have never failed to give me the precise measurement I needed,


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So how do you guys know your offset from where the bend begins to where it ends. For example say I need a 3 inch piece from gpu to rad with a 90. I would need compensate the offset of the bend as to not under or over shoot. My plan was to use a small piece and bend it around Mylar shift wooden manderal. Than measure from start to end or there an easier way?


If this means you know you need 1.5inch one direction and 1.5inch the other direction, the bend itself won't change the total length needed to be cut, it still is only 3 inch straight that you need to cut.


----------



## gotmilkmang

i figured id add a new photo of some new parts while im waiting to redo it for the 4th and final time. i want to do acrylic but im to chicken ...even though i have 40' of it sitting here


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually you would need to compensate for the bends. Unless of course you put a complete right angle bend instead of the proper gradual 90 degree bend. If you measure once bend and cut before bending you're likely to come up short.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually you would need to compensate for the bends. Unless of course you put a complete right angle bend instead of the proper gradual 90 degree bend. If you measure once bend and cut before bending you're likely to come up short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So how do you compensate for the bend?


----------



## X-Nine

By measuring. You use a ruler set. Plus you have to take into account the depth of the fitting, so you're not measuring from port to port, or from fitting to fitting, you're measuring from inside the fitting to the inside of the other fitting, and you're measuring the center of the pipe from end to end, not the outside of the pipe.

http://youtu.be/qUB66kum_vo?t=1m50s


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> By measuring. You use a ruler set. Plus you have to take into account the depth of the fitting, so you're not measuring from port to port, or from fitting to fitting, you're measuring from inside the fitting to the inside of the other fitting, and you're measuring the center of the pipe from end to end, not the outside of the pipe.
> 
> http://youtu.be/qUB66kum_vo?t=1m50s


Yah I'm pretty sure that's the video where Geno says the bend doesn't change the length of tubing needed. It's 3 inches of tube for a 1.5 inch length on the x axis and a 1.5 inch length on the y axis. I watched those videos 3 times before I even bought any tubing. My point was the bend itself doesn't stretch the tubing and a bend doesn't change the dimensions needed, a perfect straight 90 degree bend is no different in total length from a gradual soft 90 degree bend. A straight 3 inch length is still 3 inches long after it's bent.

If you don't measure correctly then yes, I can see having to do as Ceadderman is suggesting and make some little cuts after the bend is done. Not like I didn't have to sometimes.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Realized I never got an answer for this



I'm gonna put a standard barb in to replace the 90° on my res but if I put a 45° on the CPU block instead of the straight one would that be a nicer?


----------



## DarthBaggins

It would allow you to run the line a bit better, could use a 45 on both ends reall.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It would allow you to run the line a bit better, could use a 45 on both ends reall.


Thanks, I may buy a spare 45° just in case and see how it goes


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It would allow you to run the line a bit better, could use a 45 on both ends reall.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I may buy a spare 45° just in case and see how it goes
Click to expand...

Just replace the 45 with a barb and be done with it. You really don't need to spend extra cash on another 45 because you have flexible tubing and it won't look better than it will if you remove the 45 from the other end of that Flexible line.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Yeh the price of shipping unless your getting some other things allready wouldn't be worth it for just one fitting unless you really needed it.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Realized I never got an answer for this
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna put a standard barb in to replace the 90° on my res but if I put a 45° on the CPU block instead of the straight one would that be a nicer?


Check out my sig rig to see how I did it.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just replace the 45 with a barb and be done with it. You really don't need to spend extra cash on another 45 because you have flexible tubing and it won't look better than it will if you remove the 45 from the other end of that Flexible line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I tried a barb it kinks my tube seeing I'm using Norprene, its a pita tube but looks good lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yeh the price of shipping unless your getting some other things allready wouldn't be worth it for just one fitting unless you really needed it.


I am getting other things plus shipping isnt to expensive, I do need it tho the angles to severe for my tube not to kink
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Check out my sig rig to see how I did it.


Thanks, looks damn good









Thanks guys, ended up ordering 2 45° lastnight along with some other stuff, see how it turns out after craptmas


----------



## emsj86

3 dollar wood piece 3 dollar you hobby piece (it was a monster truck wooden toy saved me from buying a smaller hole saw bit) and here is what I made for when my arylic arrives. I have a few more pieces to screw down but you get the idea nothing special but figure it well help in the beginning.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> 3 dollar wood piece 3 dollar you hobby piece (it was a monster truck wooden toy saved me from buying a smaller hole saw bit) and here is what I made for when my arylic arrives. I have a few more pieces to screw down but you get the idea nothing special but figure it well help in the beginning.


Very good idea for a homemade jig. You could also make yourself a pair of guides by drilling along the grain of a 2x4 and ripping it lengthwise. Then mount them to your board to hold your tubing in whatever bend you wish using your wheels as a pivot/center point. Just a thought.









I got my Monsoon kit because I intend to use it more and more, but if it were just for me and wasn't intending to provide a service to other enthusiasts/enter LAN/Mod contests, your way would be a good way to go.

~Ceadder


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Did anyone use these polycarb fittings by Geno/Boxgods back in the day?


Those would look sweet with today's acrylic tubing, if they were redesigned for rigid tubes.


----------



## Ceadderman

...

...I think acrylic tubing deserves something much stronger and better looking. With flexible tubing you really don't have to worry about breaking one of those fittings too terribly much. Now put something rigid in one of those, even with no barb holding the tubing in place. I can see it now, my soon enough to be toddler would be getting a shower and my Computer would be a smoking pile of rubble. No thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That part about loosening the corner screws and seeing the block flatten out is part of the design . . . .
> 
> That's why different jet plates for different CPU sizes . . the plates are not all the same thickness.
> 
> They are designed to create bow when the screws are tightened.
> 
> The 2011 CPU is the largest and gets the thickest plate so it has the most bow, so when it's all brought to torque, it's flat on the whole CPU.
> 
> The smaller CPUs have thinner plates and a little less bow.
> 
> If somehow you end up with better temps, it isn't from lapping the block, it's from some other variable you didn't take into consideration somewhere.
> 
> Darlene


According to Supremacy Manual, smaller CPUs have thicker plates and more bow, and bigger CPUs have thinner plates and less bow:

o Jet J1 (0.8mm thick) - optimized for LGA-1366 CPUs (concave)
o Jet J2 (1.0mm thick) - optimized for LGA-1150 & LGA-775 CPUs (very concave)
o Jet J4 (0.7mm thick) - optimized for LGA-2011 CPUs

And it's my understanding that mounting the block on the CPU does not change its shape, so the bow you get due to the jet plate remains intact under the springs pressure, as they do not have such force as to bend the whole block.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That part about loosening the corner screws and seeing the block flatten out is part of the design . . . .
> 
> That's why different jet plates for different CPU sizes . . the plates are not all the same thickness.
> 
> They are designed to create bow when the screws are tightened.
> 
> The 2011 CPU is the largest and gets the thickest plate so it has the most bow, so when it's all brought to torque, it's flat on the whole CPU.
> 
> The smaller CPUs have thinner plates and a little less bow.
> 
> If somehow you end up with better temps, it isn't from lapping the block, it's from some other variable you didn't take into consideration somewhere.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> According to Supremacy Manual, smaller CPUs have thicker plates and more bow, and bigger CPUs have thinner plates and less bow:
> 
> o Jet J1 (0.8mm thick) - optimized for LGA-1366 CPUs (concave)
> o Jet J2 (1.0mm thick) - optimized for LGA-1150 & LGA-775 CPUs (very concave)
> o Jet J4 (0.7mm thick) - optimized for LGA-2011 CPUs
> 
> And it's my understanding that mounting the block on the CPU does not change its shape, so the bow you get due to the jet plate remains intact under the springs pressure, as they do not have such force as to bend the whole block.
Click to expand...

Looks like I had it backwards, I'll chalk it up to one of my blond senior moments and fading memory.

Thanks for the correction.

Darlene


----------



## The Storm

Has anyone had issues with the swiftech mcp35x dual pump top housing leaking? I just received this top and I don't have my second pump yet to test it but it has some machining lines that might interfere with the sealing o-ring. You can feel these with your finger. This is a brand new top purchased from PPC's.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Has anyone had issues with the swiftech mcp35x dual pump top housing leaking? I just received this top and I don't have my second pump yet to test it but it has some machining lines that might interfere with the sealing o-ring. You can feel these with your finger. This is a brand new top purchased from PPC's.


That's normal and won't have any effect on the performance of the pump. I've used these tops myself and that is quite normal.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Has anyone had issues with the swiftech mcp35x dual pump top housing leaking? I just received this top and I don't have my second pump yet to test it but it has some machining lines that might interfere with the sealing o-ring. You can feel these with your finger. This is a brand new top purchased from PPC's.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really doubt those are prominent enough to prevent the o-ring from sealing. I vaguely remember my EK dual DDC top had similar machining marks and had no effect on preventing a proper seal.

EDIT: Bram beat me to it


----------



## The Storm

Ok thank you!! Its been sitting on my computer desk for a week and I haven't opened it till today and was a little worried.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That part about loosening the corner screws and seeing the block flatten out is part of the design . . . .
> 
> That's why different jet plates for different CPU sizes . . the plates are not all the same thickness.
> 
> They are designed to create bow when the screws are tightened.
> 
> The 2011 CPU is the largest and gets the thickest plate so it has the most bow, so when it's all brought to torque, it's flat on the whole CPU.
> 
> The smaller CPUs have thinner plates and a little less bow.
> 
> If somehow you end up with better temps, it isn't from lapping the block, it's from some other variable you didn't take into consideration somewhere.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> According to Supremacy Manual, smaller CPUs have thicker plates and more bow, and bigger CPUs have thinner plates and less bow:
> 
> o Jet J1 (0.8mm thick) - optimized for LGA-1366 CPUs (concave)
> o Jet J2 (1.0mm thick) - optimized for LGA-1150 & LGA-775 CPUs (very concave)
> o Jet J4 (0.7mm thick) - optimized for LGA-2011 CPUs
> 
> And it's my understanding that mounting the block on the CPU does not change its shape, so the bow you get due to the jet plate remains intact under the springs pressure, as they do not have such force as to bend the whole block.
Click to expand...

This is correct,you need less bow for larger surface areas.

Also,the correct term is convex,not concave. Concave is a negative bow,convex is a positive bow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Has anyone had issues with the swiftech mcp35x dual pump top housing leaking? I just received this top and I don't have my second pump yet to test it but it has some machining lines that might interfere with the sealing o-ring. You can feel these with your finger. This is a brand new top purchased from PPC's.


Totally normal machined surface,it will be fine.


----------



## lowfat

Congrats to @snef, @Jameswalt1, @B NEGATIVE for your MOTY nominations @Bit-Tech.

http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2014/12/23/bit-tech-mod-of-the-year-2014/1


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Congrats to @snef, @Jameswalt1, @B NEGATIVE for your MOTY nominations @Bit-Tech.
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2014/12/23/bit-tech-mod-of-the-year-2014/1


----------



## wermad

Woot, woot


----------



## LegoFarmer

My graphics card after not even two days... Found some stuff in the cpu block, too. Should I drain, clean the blocks, and just flush out the radiator a lot? I flushed the rad once or twice before putting it in, it is alphacool, but I should have done it more. Advice? I also used the copper sulfate pt nuke like an idiot and am getting the other type made for pure distilled water (Which I use).


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Congrats to @snef, @Jameswalt1, @B NEGATIVE for your MOTY nominations @Bit-Tech.
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2014/12/23/bit-tech-mod-of-the-year-2014/1


Thanks









24 pins done, like it, very clean





































now cables for GPU and CPU


----------



## VSG

Good luck guys!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> My graphics card after not even two days... Found some stuff in the cpu block, too. Should I drain, clean the blocks, and just flush out the radiator a lot? I flushed the rad once or twice before putting it in, it is alphacool, but I should have done it more. Advice? I also used the copper sulfate pt nuke like an idiot and am getting the other type made for pure distilled water (Which I use).


I got that in my GPU block too. I use distilled and Meyhem's Biocide Extreme only. I want something new as well that prevents the brown stains (corrosion?) from happening.


----------



## LegoFarmer

I will be livid if it is corrosion and not reversible.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> I will be livid if it is corrosion and not reversible.


Its not.

Its the metric ton of crap that's in that Alphastool rad.


----------



## emsj86

It can't be corrosion after two days. Not to say stranger things happen but I doubt it. You should look into mayhems part 1 and part2 cleaning products for prepping and cleaning you system


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not.
> 
> Its the metric ton of crap that's in that Alphastool rad.


What about me who have very clean XSPC radiators and spots very similar to his?


----------



## LegoFarmer

So the verdict is probably radiator debris?


----------



## DarthBaggins

yup need to re-flush system and use BLitz Pro Kit


----------



## LegoFarmer

Ragsters, I believe mayhems biocide is the same as the PT Nuke I used. I think it reacted with the blocks (It should just be a polish job, nothing major). Instead of the copper sulfate variant (Cu), try the PHN Variant (http://www.amazon.com/Petras-Tech-Nuke-Concentrated-Biocide/dp/B008EH4STK)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not.
> 
> Its the metric ton of crap that's in that Alphastool rad.
> 
> 
> 
> What about me who have very clean XSPC radiators and spots very similar to his?
Click to expand...

]

I will admit,i didnt open the pic.........

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> So the verdict is probably radiator debris?


..........and....no. It does actually look like corrosion. 2 days tho? Really?

I would PH test that coolant. If its low PH then its a solid chance that the rad flux has contaminated your loop leading to accelerated corrosion.

Split the block and see if the marks wipe off,it could also be an organic. Algae looks similar.


----------



## ozzy1925

do you guys think will this leak?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> do you guys think will this leak?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


Not really sure what you are asking about but that blue plastic plug in the rad port will definitely leak.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ]
> 
> I will admit,i didnt open the pic.........
> ..........and....no. It does actually look like corrosion. 2 days tho? Really?
> 
> I would PH test that coolant. If its low PH then its a solid chance that the rad flux has contaminated your loop leading to accelerated corrosion.
> 
> Split the block and see if the marks wipe off,it could also be an organic. Algae looks similar.


Thank you. It is very interesting. I took out the card, and it turns out that water doesn't even touch the part that appeared to be corroded. It looks fine in normal lighting. Regardless, I will still redo my loop with better tubing and different pt nuke. I will also flush the radiator hardcore. Thanks for the input, too.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not really sure what you are asking about but that blue plastic plug in the rad port will definitely leak.


Yes, exactly, you need to use the G1/4 endcaps, the silicone caps are just for storage.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Has anyone had issues with the swiftech mcp35x dual pump top housing leaking? I just received this top and I don't have my second pump yet to test it but it has some machining lines that might interfere with the sealing o-ring. You can feel these with your finger. This is a brand new top purchased from PPC's.






looks identical to my dual top, and it's been plugging away for years now.

the o-rings are quite robust.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not really sure what you are asking about but that blue plastic plug in the rad port will definitely leak.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Yes, exactly, you need to use the G1/4 endcaps, the silicone caps are just for storage.


sorry i meant the rigid tubing and the c47s because it was a pain to install them. It goes between 2 rads and there is a flow meter
here is a better picture:


----------



## WiSK

I mentioned a few weeks ago that I tore a pad off a DDC pump. I had ghetto fixed it thanks to IT Diva's advice, but Lowfat mentioned that DIYINHK sell replacement PCBs. So I ordered one and managed to figure out how to solder it to the coils. It's a newer version than the one mentioned on Martin's Liquid Lab - was designed in September.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Thank you. It is very interesting. I took out the card, and it turns out that water doesn't even touch the part that appeared to be corroded. It looks fine in normal lighting. Regardless, I will still redo my loop with better tubing and different pt nuke. I will also flush the radiator hardcore. Thanks for the input, too.


It might not look like water gets to that spot it really does. Anywhere inside the O-ring, water can and will get to. Those sections are outside the main flow path though of course and small deposits of water sit there stagnant. Its where corrosion often starts but also, as is likely the case here, the stangnant water allows materials to fall out of suspension and or start to stain. It could be copper sulphate staining exacerbated by alphacool rad debris ... its really impossible to tell exactly.
Because its in that flow dead zone simple flushing won't remove it too. The block needs to be stripped and maybe just wiped clean, or maybe polished. Its extremely unlikely to be any more serious than that.

This photo by Stren is a good example of it because the coloured coolant shows where the water has spread, even where the block directly contacts the acrylic


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I mentioned a few weeks ago that I tore a pad off a DDC pump. I had ghetto fixed it thanks to IT Diva's advice, but Lowfat mentioned that DIYINHK sell replacement PCBs. So I ordered one and managed to figure out how to solder it to the coils. It's a newer version than the one mentioned on Martin's Liquid Lab - was designed in September.


So you aren't using the one you repaired? The Laing PWM PCB is in my opinion at least 50x better than the DIYINHK. PWM on it is just flat out terrible. I found the pump noisy and the PWM range lousy. I still use one on a DDC-1T. But only at full speed and on a server that is in another room.

But







to trying a swap. Really is a shame they no longer sell the Toshiba powered PCBs. Those things are machines. Turns a DDC3 in to a mini Iwaki, albiet a very loud one.









EDIT: Designed in Sept of this year? Do you have pics of the other side of the PCB?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Designed in Sept of this year? Do you have pics of the other side of the PCB?


Uh whoops, I just checked and realised I didn't take any photos of the IC. I will test the PWM range soon and get back to you.


----------



## skupples

Dazmode videos make me lol.


----------



## VSG

@Dazmode is one of my heroes on YouTube


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Even more potato photo than usual but finally got my loop set back up







, the 45 on the CPU block was exactly what it needed



Gonna fill her tomorrow and hope to hell it actually works this time, if not I'll buy a new pump and CPU block









I'll take a better pic once I get it filled and the lights in


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> looks identical to my dual top, and it's been plugging away for years now.
> 
> the o-rings are quite robust.


Thanks, I was just worried about the lines that I pointed to. Those lines are raised above the rest of the surface and can be felt easily by rubbing your finger across them, they almost feel and look like fibers running through the material. I understand the rest of the marks are from the milling process.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

How would the "Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Water cooling 360mm" do with a 3930K @ 1,35-1,4 volts?

If I am doing custom I need the EK-PE 360 and a reservoir ... which is pretty much the same price as the AIO above. It would get more radiator area with custom for sure, planning on doing 240, 360 and 120 only for the CPU in that case, maybe even two 120. Not sure if I want to buy the Corsair 450D or 750D ...


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> How would the "Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Water cooling 360mm" do with a 3930K @ 1,35-1,4 volts?
> 
> If I am doing custom I need the EK-PE 360 and a reservoir ... which is pretty much the same price as the AIO above. It would get more radiator area with custom for sure, planning on doing 240, 360 and 120 only for the CPU in that case, maybe even two 120. Not sure if I want to buy the Corsair 450D or 750D ...


I am not too much of an expert, but if you do not use a cheap grease and mount it properly, there is really no real need in using more than a single 360 rad for a CPU, even if heavily overclocked.


----------



## samoth777

Hello all,

Does anybody here have experience with Cooler Master 120mm Sickleflow fans for use with radiators?

http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/red-led-silent-fan-120mm/


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Does anybody here have experience with Cooler Master 120mm Sickleflow fans for use with radiators?
> 
> http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/red-led-silent-fan-120mm/


Don't

They do a decent job when nothing is obstructing them but other than that they just dont do well. Open case fan is all I'd use those for.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> How would the "Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Water cooling 360mm" do with a 3930K @ 1,35-1,4 volts?
> 
> If I am doing custom I need the EK-PE 360 and a reservoir ... which is pretty much the same price as the AIO above. It would get more radiator area with custom for sure, planning on doing 240, 360 and 120 only for the CPU in that case, maybe even two 120. Not sure if I want to buy the Corsair 450D or 750D ...


Looking at the pump specs, . . . .

It's a 3 Watt pump with 3ft (OK, 1M) of head pressure.

I personally would just stay away from packaged systems if you already know how to set up a real loop.

You know enough to realize how much performance potential you sacrificed for a relatively small savings, and end up feeling like you wasted money on it in the longer run.

Darlene


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Does anybody here have experience with Cooler Master 120mm Sickleflow fans for use with radiators?
> 
> http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/red-led-silent-fan-120mm/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> *Don't
> 
> They do a decent job when nothing is obstructing them but other than that they just dont do well. Open case fan is all I'd use those for*.
Click to expand...

I respectfully disagree. I've used R4/Sickleflows on my radiators for a while and don't have any major complaints. They undervolt very well and provide decent airflow through radiators. I wouldn't recommend them if you aren't using a fan controller since they are a bit loud at full speed, but running around 1400RPM(which is about where I keep them) they are pretty quiet. I've used Yate Loon High Speeds, Sickleflows, Gentle Typhoons, and now Sickleflows paired with Gentle Typhoons for push+pull(Sickleflows in push, Typhoons in pull), in that order and each change was an upgrade. The Sickleflows to Typhoons change wasn't much of a performance upgrade, but was a huge noise upgrade(much less noise with the Typhoons). Overall, I'd still recommend them.


----------



## samoth777

thanks! +rep to the two of you. I'm drawn towards this due to the LEDs on them, aswell. plus SP120 LEDs are expensive over here.


----------



## emsj86

Sickleflows "specs" would seem there good for rads. But it's a complete lie trust me they are case fans not radiator fans


----------



## emsj86

If you want a cheap rad fan xspc fans


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If you want a cheap rad fan xspc fans


xspc fans arent led as samoth is looking for. yate loons would be a better deal than the xspc fans...


----------



## szeged

leds on fans

2008 called they want their fad back.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> leds on fans
> 
> 2008 called they want their fad back.


Haven't changed out the fans on a new case I bought yet just running a system on air in it.


----------



## skupples

I still love my army of typhoons


----------



## electro2u

Amazon had ap-15s available so I have 12 on the way...


----------



## szeged

ap-15s are still easily my favorite for sure.


----------



## skupples

So scythe is still the vender for AP15 on Amazon. Would be funny if all of that drama was to just drive the prices up, which it did a great job of. Nearly $10 compared to 2 years ago.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So scythe is still the vender for AP15 on Amazon. Would be funny if all of that drama was to just drive the prices up, which it did a great job of. Nearly $10 compared to 2 years ago.


shows coolerguys for me =\


----------



## Agenesis

Lapped my waterblock today:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Before lapping:


After 400 grit



After 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500:


Running small ffts on Haswell-E overclocked is not easy. Show below is the cpu drawing 270w, the hottest core after lapping hovered between 85c~88c. Before lapping I've remounted the block dozens of times in the span of a month and the hottest core always went above 90c and averaging 93c.



Took about an hour of work but it's well worth it.


----------



## emsj86

What did you use to lap it with?


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What did you use to lap it with?


400, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500.


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What did you use to lap it with?


http://www.amazon.com/3M-Wetordry-Sandpaper-11-Inch-5-Sheet/dp/B00004Z4BE/
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Wetordry-Sandpaper-03006-Assorted/dp/B005JPGTNI/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What did you use to lap it with?


Please edit your previous post to include additional Post.

The Cautious one


----------



## emsj86

So on my pc I can edit my post But on mobile I can only do so much with it. Is here a trick to do it on mobile


----------



## mcg75

Thread cleaned.

Guys, can we please avoid making things personal here?

Thanks.


----------



## wermad

tri watah!



One block in my system atm.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So on my pc I can edit my post But on mobile I can only do so much with it. Is here a trick to do it on mobile


No Idea of Mobile.

The Cautious One


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Amazon had ap-15s available so I have 12 on the way...
> 
> 
> 
> So scythe is still the vender for AP15 on Amazon. Would be funny if all of that drama was to just drive the prices up, which it did a great job of. Nearly $10 compared to 2 years ago.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *shows coolerguys for me* =\
Click to expand...

^This.
Coolerguys sells them on their own site and on Amazon. This from a while back ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Coolerguys has 1450rpm and 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons (formerly Scythe's AP-14 and AP-15s, respectively) for $19.95, unless you are buying from their Amazon page instead of their site which does charge more - $23 - but is also Prime / free shipping eligible, so might be good to compare either way. For example, I opted for 16 of the fans from the coolerguys site and shipping was ~$20. Same fans shipped would have cost me $29 more to get them from Amazon.


*Edit:*
Just don't be surprised when you receive your fans they will be oem packed AP-53, not Scythe's retail packaged AP-15s. They are the exact same 1850rpm Gentle Typhoon fan, just a newer order of them. Coolerguys probably should update their Amazon page to reflect that like they have on their own site, but I guess if they did that they would get moved to a different page and lose all the customer reviews for that same fan and their place in search results. Hmmm?



Spoiler: 1850 rpm Gentle Typhoons: AP-15 (old - Scythe) AP-53 (new - Coolerguys)


----------



## Bluemustang

I don't understand why i've never heard anyone recommend these MASSCOOL Fans

They have some serious static pressure, even more so then most of the so called pressure optimized fans that cost 3-4 times the price. They are rated at 3.86mmh20. Now you could say that isnt accurate but i have some of these as well as some cooler master R4s (the 2k or so rpm variant) which are known to have decent static pressure around 2.something, 2.4 i think it might be. And when i feel the R4 and feel these masscool the masscool are definitely putting out more force. So i'd say those figures are accurate.

And theyre CHEAP, normally just $8 on newegg but right now directron have them on sale for $5. I just ordered enough to fill up both my 480 rads in push pull with them. Thats $80 for 16 fans vs maybe $250-$400 for the same number of high end ones which may have even less static pressure than these (unless you get kazes or something ridiculous).

Anyway just an FYI for anyone out there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I don't understand why i've never heard anyone recommend these MASSCOOL Fans
> 
> They have some serious static pressure, even more so then most of the so called pressure optimized fans that cost 3-4 times the price. They are rated at 3.86mmh20. Now you could say that isnt accurate but i have some of these as well as some cooler master R4s (the 2k or so rpm variant) which are known to have decent static pressure around 2.something, 2.4 i think it might be. And when i feel the R4 and feel these masscool the masscool are definitely putting out more force. So i'd say those figures are accurate.
> 
> And theyre CHEAP, normally just $8 on newegg but right now directron have them on sale for $5. I just ordered enough to fill up both my 480 rads in push pull with them. Thats $80 for 16 fans vs maybe $250-$400 for the same number of high end ones which may have even less static pressure than these (unless you get kazes or something ridiculous).
> 
> Anyway just an FYI for anyone out there.


Because they are nasty generic rebrands.

The specs are a figment of the PR guys dreams.


----------



## Archea47

With AP-29's unobtainable what's a comparable offering? (3k RPM rad fan)


----------



## VSG

No experience with these (yet) but what about the Noctua IPPC 3000 or EK Furious Vardar F5?

Edit: Also look up OEM industrial fans like the San Aces and Delta ones on eBay and elsewhere.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I am not too much of an expert, but if you do not use a cheap grease and mount it properly, there is really no real need in using more than a single 360 rad for a CPU, even if heavily overclocked.


Yes, it is probably enough with the EK-PE 360 just for the CPU, but at 1,4 volts+ it needs more than a 240 radiator ... 360 would probably be good enough. I already have the EK-XT120 and EK-XTX240, more water, more fans, more radiator area = better cooling so I am going to add the two other spare radiators (if it is space enough for it).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looking at the pump specs, . . . .
> 
> It's a 3 Watt pump with 3ft (OK, 1M) of head pressure.
> 
> I personally would just stay away from packaged systems if you already know how to set up a real loop.
> 
> You know enough to realize how much performance potential you sacrificed for a relatively small savings, and end up feeling like you wasted money on it in the longer run.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah, I guess it will be custom ... again. Will do EK X-res 250mm this time around and have the 3-port top on it for additional top ports, mix in the EK-D5 X-Top and EK-D5 together with the EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ and some Sunset Yellow Mayhem Pastel coolant and it should be good. Thinking 12/16mm acrylic tubing too and the black Bitspower adapters. I only hope the Corsair 450D will be big enough for the EK X-Res 250mm (which is around 270mm with the bottom, and I guess some more with the 3-port top).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Anyone using Alphacool's DDC Metal Housing / Passive Cooler yet?


----------



## szeged

alphacool.

nope.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Anyone using Alphacool's DDC Metal Housing / Passive Cooler yet?


Looks like a sloppy version of the EK ones.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Anyone using Alphacool's DDC Metal Housing / Passive Cooler yet?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nah, Just Ek's So far, I want to buy the White ones from Bitspower but cannot seem to find out if there is a hole cut out at the bottom for heat disspersement, can someone comment on that, or show picture if it does have a hole in the bottom?

Bitspower DDC Heatsink

The Cautious One


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nah, Just Ek's So far, I want to buy the White ones from Bitspower but cannot seem to find out if there is a hole cut out at the bottom for heat disspersement, can someone comment on that, or show picture if it does have a hole in the bottom?
> 
> Bitspower DDC Heatsink
> 
> The Cautious One


Does their installation guide answer that for you?



Although looking at that I'm curious. Does it show you should put "insulation pads" between the thermal pad and the heatsink? Wait. What?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Does their installation guide answer that for you?
> 
> 
> 
> Although looking at that I'm curious. Does it show you should put "insulation pads" between the thermal pad and the heatsink? Wait. What?


I've Taken a look at it for sure, and yet Still would like to ask here. THis is questionable.



The Cautious One


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because they are nasty generic rebrands.
> 
> The specs are a figment of the PR guys dreams.


A figment? As i already posted, one could say the specs arent true but i personally have both these masscools and coolermaster R4s and the R4s with their 2.4ish mmH2O pressure is less then that of these. Its not scientific but i can sure feel force differences.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Anyone using Alphacool's DDC Metal Housing / Passive Cooler yet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a sloppy version of the EK ones.
Click to expand...

Scarily so......

Not surprised either.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Scarily so......
> 
> Not surprised either.


You really Don't Like those guys eh? LoL. Your disdain for them really boggles me to the point where I am afraid of buying their products.

Anything about XSPC @B NEGATIVE ?

The Cautious One


----------



## lowfat

Cheap quality products FTL. I'd rather pay more for a high quality finish. Always.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Cheap quality products FTL. *I'd rather pay more for a high quality finish*. Always.


Elaborate.

THe Cautious One


----------



## sinnedone

ek's ddc nickel housings finish isnt very good either. It's rather dull, thin, and the housing itself could have been better deburred/polished before plating.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Elaborate.
> 
> THe Cautious One


I am talking about Alphacool not XSPC.

Look at the nickel finish on their fittings or those pump bodies. It looks rather terrible. Their rads generally have more solder blobs than other higher quality and more expensive radiators. They'll also generally come w/ more bent fins. They made 2nd tier parts compared to EK, Bitspower, or HWLabs.

As for XSPC, most of their stuff is pretty good from what I've seen. But the Photon reservoir I bought is pretty bad. Terrible design, terrible paint quality, and warped. Thankfully it at least didn't leak.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Anyone using Alphacool's DDC Metal Housing / Passive Cooler yet?


The EK one's are by far much superior to these







... I have three of the EK ones & tried these Alpha's & sorry but no comparison really... Go with the EK is my advise







....

Ohhhhh & Happy Christmas to one & all







.....

Nam...


----------



## wermad

Can we stop with elitist-snobish attitudes with brands. If you don't like a brand shut your trap!

I know it's hard with thick heads but it's getting very irritating. Some ppl have questions, they don't want your likes or dislikes.

Also, having amazing skills doesn't give you a pedestal to shout your displeasure with a brand.

TAKE IT TO THE OFF TOPIC!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I am talking about Alphacool *not XSPC*.
> 
> Look at the nickel finish on their fittings or those pump bodies. It looks rather terrible. Their rads generally have more solder blobs than other higher quality and more expensive radiators. They'll also generally come w/ more bent fins. They made 2nd tier parts compared to EK, Bitspower, or HWLabs.
> 
> As for XSPC, most of their stuff is pretty good from what I've seen. But the Photon reservoir I bought is pretty bad. Terrible design, terrible paint quality, and warped. Thankfully it at least didn't leak.


I appreciate the words about XSPC. I have grown fond of them. I own the 270 Res/D5 combo, I do no like the lack of port options on it. I might just re-use the D5 Vario in a Re-build of my 750D with a pump top and Different Res. Interesting you say that about the Res also.

The Cautious One
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*












What is Your *Opinion* of the The Alphacool Product?


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> alphacool.
> 
> nope.


What seems to be the problem with alphacool? THe price/quality is great, the quality overall maybe not too good, but I am satisfied. Just have to flush your rads before using.

And EK is way too overrated.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> What seems to be the problem with alphacool? THe price/quality is great, the quality overall maybe not too good, but I am satisfied. Just have to flush your rads before using.


Watchout, @wermad Lurks around the corner Sir









The Cautious One


----------



## CaliLife17

I have run into an issue with my Ek dual D5 pump top. I am using Aquacomputer d5's and plugging in 4pin cables to the aquabus port but with the cable plugged in I can't add the bottom mount bracked as the cables stick out too much. Anyone ever had any experience with this. I am trying to mount these in my STH10 and have hit a a wall on trying to figure out what to do.


----------



## wermad

Leak testing three ALPHACOOL Monsta 480s. So on my phone atm







.

USPS took forever to deliver the last two blocks and bridge. Guess it's the holiday delay. Interesting how they delivered ~6am


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Shut up,you dont like it then dont comment,my opinion is as valid as anyone elses.
> More to the point,Namron has those tops and also rubbishes them,you gonna tell him to 'shut his trap'?
> 
> Damn,you best move on.


This proves my point


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Anyone using Alphacool's DDC Metal Housing / Passive Cooler yet?






nope, but it looks like EK could troll them, if they wanted to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This proves my point


you can talk brands dislikes / likes all day, just don't bring up shipping costs from FCPU or PPC!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Leak testing three ALPHACOOL Monsta 480s. So on my phone atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> USPS took forever to deliver the last two blocks and bridge. Guess it's the holiday delay. Interesting how they delivered ~6am


no joke saw USPS in my neighborhood @ 3AM, today. In their package delivery trucks, not mail trucks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> I have run into an issue with my Ek dual D5 pump top. I am using Aquacomputer d5's and plugging in 4pin cables to the aquabus port but with the cable plugged in I can't add the bottom mount bracked as the cables stick out too much. Anyone ever had any experience with this. I am trying to mount these in my STH10 and have hit a a wall on trying to figure out what to do.


Which bracket are you using to mount the whole assembly to your case? I can't seem to recall or find an ek dual d5 bracket.

edit: this?:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/mounting-plates/ek-uni-holder-d5-v2.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you can talk brands dislikes / likes all day, just don't bring up shipping costs from FCPU or PPC!
> 
> .


Damn right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Scarily so......
> 
> Not surprised either.
> 
> 
> 
> You really Don't Like those guys eh? LoL. Your disdain for them really boggles me to the point where I am afraid of buying their products.
> 
> Anything about XSPC @B NEGATIVE ?
> 
> The Cautious One
Click to expand...

XSPC are fine solid stuff,stay away from the cheap bay res/pump combo's tho.
Rads are superb,easily their strong point.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Which bracket are you using to mount the whole assembly to your case? I can't seem to recall or find an ek dual d5 bracket.
> 
> edit: this?:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/mounting-plates/ek-uni-holder-d5-v2.html


Trying to use the bracket that came with the top.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html

I can take a picture when i get back to my house in about 30 min.


----------



## skupples




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Trying to use the bracket that came with the top.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html
> 
> I can take a picture when i get back to my house in about 30 min.


Try to soften the cables w/ a little hot air. If you have a heatgun, gently apply some to bend the cables if possible.

If that don't work, cutting a whole in the bracket to allow the cable to pass through. Then you can cut a whole in an STH10 or better yet, use some risers on the bracket.

editL find a short pwm plug??? (let me search if such thing exists).

Pic would definitely bring things in perspective







.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Agreed. I like to browse this thread for the pictures of water cooling set ups and some mild conversation about them but I get sick of seeing pages dedicated to "what to buy, what brands are best, shipping from X place is more expensive than Y place" and other off topic stuff.

If you take the time to read through this for a day and pay attention to the pictures people post, you will see what brands are recommended and used most. No need to get it asked 8756848674786 times. Use what you find visually appealing and also performs well. You can look up performance of different parts online.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## 66racer

Cleaned a few post up. Lets respect each other's opinions, rude post are subject to warnings/infractions.

Thanks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Trying to use the bracket that came with the top.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pump-tops/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html
> 
> I can take a picture when i get back to my house in about 30 min.


Hmmm, are the female threads that screw into the anti-vibration bushings the same as the male threads sticking out of them? That should be easy enough to figure out. Do the screws that are supposed to go into the bushings also fit into the base of the top? edit: Or better yet, will the bushings screw together one into another?

If so you could just double up another set couldn't you, putting two bushings together for each of the four feet? That would give you quite a bit more clearance and keep the same look about it. I'm assuming these are the same as come with that dual D5 pump top:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/mounting-mechanisms/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting.html

Edit:
Pardon the cheesiness of this quick photoedit but what I'm getting at would be something like this ...



Perhaps the current EK rep (can't remember who it is now that it's no longer @derickwm) can confirm / refute that the EK-DDC Anti-Vibration Mounting kit is the same used for their dual D5 top?


----------



## LegoFarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It might not look like water gets to that spot it really does. Anywhere inside the O-ring, water can and will get to. Those sections are outside the main flow path though of course and small deposits of water sit there stagnant. Its where corrosion often starts but also, as is likely the case here, the stangnant water allows materials to fall out of suspension and or start to stain. It could be copper sulphate staining exacerbated by alphacool rad debris ... its really impossible to tell exactly.
> Because its in that flow dead zone simple flushing won't remove it too. The block needs to be stripped and maybe just wiped clean, or maybe polished. Its extremely unlikely to be any more serious than that.
> 
> This photo by Stren is a good example of it because the coloured coolant shows where the water has spread, even where the block directly contacts the acrylic


I emptied the fluid and there wasn't much debris, though I'll flush the rad at least 5 times. I believe the copper sulfate was the pt nuke that I used. That's why I just bought the other type. I opened up the block and scrubbed using a toothbrush and distilled water. All looks better. Should be good to go. Doing cpu block later.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Damn right.
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC are fine solid stuff,stay away from the cheap bay res/pump combo's tho.
> Rads are superb,easily their strong point.
Click to expand...

Thanks B Neg!

THe Cautious One
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Agreed. I like to browse this thread for the pictures of water cooling set ups and some mild conversation about them but I get sick of seeing pages dedicated to "what to buy, what brands are best, shipping from X place is more expensive than Y place" and other off topic stuff.
> 
> If you take the time to read through this for a day and pay attention to the pictures people post, you will see what brands are recommended and used most. No need to get it asked 8756848674786 times. Use what you find visually appealing and also performs well. You can look up performance of different parts online.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


I wouldn't consider them opinions all the time. A lot of people have expierence with things that I would Never be able to afford or have the time to try. I for one, love to hear freedback from those who have had trials and tribulations in that aspect.

It saves money too, instead of buying somethings twice and get to hear "I told you so"

The Cautious One


----------



## CaliLife17

Ya I think if I could get another set of of those anti vibration bushings and double up that might work. Don't know through if that would add to more vibrations because it's more top heavy now.

As you can see the plug is longer than the space the bracket givens.

Here is the space I'm putting it in. Don't mind the wires, mess as I have been changing things around its a mess right now. 5 radiators is a pain to coordinate.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, are the female threads that screw into the anti-vibration bushings the same as the male threads sticking out of them? That should be easy enough to figure out. Do the screws that are supposed to go into the bushings also fit into the base of the top? edit: Or better yet, will the bushings screw together one into another?
> 
> If so you could just double up another set couldn't you, putting two bushings together for each of the four feet? That would give you quite a bit more clearance and keep the same look about it. I'm assuming these are the same as come with that dual D5 pump top:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/mounting-mechanisms/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting.html
> 
> Edit:
> Pardon the cheesiness of this quick photoedit but what I'm getting at would be something like this ...
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps the current EK rep (can't remember who it is now that it's no longer @derickwm) can confirm / refute that the EK-DDC Anti-Vibration Mounting kit is the same used for their dual D5 top?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I think if I could get another set of of those anti vibration bushings and double up that might work. Don't know through if that would add to more vibrations because it's more top heavy now.
> 
> As you can see the plug is longer than the space the bracket givens.
> 
> Here is the space I'm putting it in. Don't mind the wires, mess as I have been changing things around its a mess right now. 5 radiators is a pain to coordinate.
> *snip*
Click to expand...

This is a great idea if you don't wanna hack up the bracket. The stand-offs/bushings seem pretty solid in my old ddc kit. It would be worth a shot if you wanna order another set.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> I emptied the fluid and there wasn't much debris, though I'll flush the rad at least 5 times. I believe the copper sulfate was the pt nuke that I used. That's why I just bought the other type. I opened up the block and scrubbed using a toothbrush and distilled water. All looks better. Should be good to go. Doing cpu block later.


just curious, did you find lots of buildup that scrubbed off to look like copper residue?

I've used copper sulfate additives a few times, and I've always had the same result. Buildup in blocks, & it scrubs off looking like copper tarnish.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> just curious, did you find lots of buildup that scrubbed off to look like copper residue?
> 
> I've used copper sulfate additives a few times, and I've always had the same result. Buildup in blocks, & it scrubs off looking like copper tarnish.


Well, it came off fine, and it seemed a bit like copper. It was not even a week old, so it wasn't bad at all


----------



## X-Nine

Never had an issue with copper sulphate. All it takes is a few drops in a loop and that's all.


----------



## aka13

To the pump guy - if you are not afraid of soldering, there are u-shaped 4pin connectors. WOuld that be an option, to solder them instead and connect cables sideways?


----------



## skupples

just bust out the drill! dink two holes through the plate.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is a great idea if you don't wanna hack up the bracket. The stand-offs/bushings seem pretty solid in my old ddc kit. It would be worth a shot if you wanna order another set.


Agree with this option as a first shot for sure. Had a very similar thing in an old build a few years back & I managed to find a local model store that had alsorts of white plastic/acrylic type sheets along with various sizes of not just angled plastic rods but also had the same plastic in tube form (used for train model building or just general small model building type thing) that was very simple to cut to size and I used that tubing for making spacers.

Really difficult to explain properly what I mean without a Pic I know (if I can dig out some of this tubing I'll put a pic up the type of thing I mean).. Sorry can't be a bit more descriptive & precise in my description of what I mean but hope you see what I'm getting at....









Nam....


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> once you push the coolant too fast it cannot dissipate the heat correctly


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickcooperjr*
> if coolant moves to fast the rads won't get enough time to get rid of the heat


anybody care to help disprove this?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> once you push the coolant too fast it cannot dissipate the heat correctly
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickcooperjr*
> if coolant moves to fast the rads won't get enough time to get rid of the heat
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> anybody care to help disprove this?
Click to expand...

I read a good little article that applies to car cooling systems (using pumps and radiators for the engine) that applies to our intended loops, and that is actually false... let me find it....

Here: http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_rules_for_improving_engine_cooling_system_capability_in_high-performance_automobiles.htm

So, no, slowing the coolant is worse for loops.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> just bust out the drill! dink two holes through the plate.


I have no problem drilling a hole in the bracket, problem becomes I would also need to drill holes into the bottom midsection plate in the case, and was really trying not to do that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Agree with this option as a first shot for sure. Had a very similar thing in an old build a few years back & I managed to find a local model store that had alsorts of white plastic/acrylic type sheets along with various sizes of not just angled plastic rods but also had the same plastic in tube form (used for train model building or just general small model building type thing) that was very simple to cut to size and I used that tubing for making spacers.
> 
> Really difficult to explain properly what I mean without a Pic I know (if I can dig out some of this tubing I'll put a pic up the type of thing I mean).. Sorry can't be a bit more descriptive & precise in my description of what I mean but hope you see what I'm getting at....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam....


Ya I get what you are saying. Basically a plastic dowel with a hole in the middle, cut to the length to be a spacer. That is something that could work. They use the same type of spaces for TV Bracket for wall hanging.

I think first i will try and see if EK sells those anti-vibration pegs, and see if i can just double up on those. That would be the easiest and fastest. Just figures there is another thing i need to order, it never ends


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nah, Just Ek's So far, I want to buy the White ones from Bitspower but cannot seem to find out if there is a hole cut out at the bottom for heat disspersement, can someone comment on that, or show picture if it does have a hole in the bottom?
> 
> Bitspower DDC Heatsink
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> 
> 
> Does their installation guide answer that for you?
> 
> 
> 
> Although looking at that I'm curious. Does it show you should put "insulation pads" between the thermal pad and the heatsink? Wait. What?
Click to expand...

There's no hole in the bottom, having the bottom fully finned is better for heat dissipation as a hole gets you nothing.

I have a bunch of the BP housings and like them better than my EKs, . . . the one thing to watch though, is the cutout for the wires . . .

It's too shallow and too narrow for the 4 wires of the 35X . . I mean you might could crush them in, but it'd risk a short down the road . .

I dremelled all mine a bit deeper and a bit wider and I have no worries about future problems in that regard. For 3 wire DDCs, you'll have to decide that after a test fitting.

As to the insulation pads . . . .

They show in my package insert sheet, that you cut one and use it over the thermal pad on the side where the wires are.

You can fit the bottom any of the 4 ways on the sides piece, since it's square.

I'd recommend using 2 pieces of insulation pad . . . the first one between the wires and the side where they exit, and the second between where the wires solder to the board and the bottom . . . like how it shows.

Though they don't come with vibration dampers, BP has these which I highly recommend:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-anti-vibration-rubber-bolts-m4-4pcs-set.html

The white BP DDC housings:



Darlene


----------



## LegoFarmer

Opinions on flushing radiators? I was going to just fill and shake easily 10 times. Should I use hot distilled for all of it, or tap water and then just use distilled water for the last two flushes or so?


----------



## wermad

stick on the hot tap of your faucet. Then a few rinses w/ distilled.

You can also run some 1:10 vinegar to distilled water, heat it up, and shake it in your rad. I've been lucky, my rads have been clean. I've only had to clean used components I have purchased that had ran colored liquids.


----------



## aka13

I suppose if you filter/boil the water before flushing the rad, wouldn't do any harm, but I doubt that is necessary.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Opinions on flushing radiators? I was going to just fill and shake easily 10 times. Should I use hot distilled for all of it, or tap water and then just use distilled water for the last two flushes or so?


This is how I did it:
-Boil distilled water in the microwave
-Add in some vinegar
-poor into the radiator,
-use something to cover up the ports
-shake thoroughly for a min or 2
-drain the vinegar solution
-flush a couple of times with hot distilled water
-Done

This worked fine for me, but I'm sure someone might know a better technique.


----------



## wermad

I just do a final rinse w/ distilled. helps clear out any tap water still in the there. Haven't had issues with that


----------



## LegoFarmer

Is the vinegar too hard to get out?


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I read a good little article that applies to car cooling systems (using pumps and radiators for the engine) that applies to our intended loops, and that is actually false... let me find it....
> 
> Here: http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_rules_for_improving_engine_cooling_system_capability_in_high-performance_automobiles.htm
> 
> So, no, slowing the coolant is worse for loops.





oh wow, some silly stuff just won't die, will it?

I thought RickyJunior was a math wiz, should have been easy for him to figure out







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> I have no problem drilling a hole in the bracket, problem becomes I would also need to drill holes into the bottom midsection plate in the case, and was really trying not to do that.
> Ya I get what you are saying. Basically a plastic dowel with a hole in the middle, cut to the length to be a spacer. That is something that could work. They use the same type of spaces for TV Bracket for wall hanging.
> 
> I think first i will try and see if EK sells those anti-vibration pegs, and see if i can just double up on those. That would be the easiest and fastest. Just figures there is another thing i need to order, it never ends


this is why I'm glad my STH10 has the 4x 120.1 holes in the top & bottom of the inner chamber. allows me to drill through them w/o racking my conscience.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There's no hole in the bottom, having the bottom fully finned is better for heat dissipation as a hole gets you nothing.
> 
> I have a bunch of the BP housings and like them better than my EKs, . . . the one thing to watch though, is the cutout for the wires . . .
> 
> It's too shallow and too narrow for the 4 wires of the 35X . . I mean you might could crush them in, but it'd risk a short down the road . .
> 
> I dremelled all mine a bit deeper and a bit wider and I have no worries about future problems in that regard. For 3 wire DDCs, you'll have to decide that after a test fitting.
> 
> As to the insulation pads . . . .
> 
> They show in my package insert sheet, that you cut one and use it over the thermal pad on the side where the wires are.
> 
> You can fit the bottom any of the 4 ways on the sides piece, since it's square.
> 
> I'd recommend using 2 pieces of insulation pad . . . the first one between the wires and the side where they exit, and the second between where the wires solder to the board and the bottom . . . like how it shows.
> 
> Though they don't come with vibration dampers, BP has these which I highly recommend:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-anti-vibration-rubber-bolts-m4-4pcs-set.html
> 
> The white BP DDC housings:
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene






D - have you had time to play with the BP Magic Cubes?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Agree with this option as a first shot for sure. Had a very similar thing in an old build a few years back & I managed to find a local model store that had alsorts of white plastic/acrylic type sheets along with various sizes of not just angled plastic rods but also had the same plastic in tube form (used for train model building or just general small model building type thing) that was very simple to cut to size and I used that tubing for making spacers.
> 
> Really difficult to explain properly what I mean without a Pic I know (if I can dig out some of this tubing I'll put a pic up the type of thing I mean).. Sorry can't be a bit more descriptive & precise in my description of what I mean but hope you see what I'm getting at....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam....
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I get what you are saying. Basically a plastic dowel with a hole in the middle, cut to the length to be a spacer. That is something that could work. They use the same type of spaces for TV Bracket for wall hanging.
> 
> I think first i will try and see if EK sells those anti-vibration pegs, and see if i can just double up on those. That would be the easiest and fastest. Just figures there is another thing i need to order, it never ends
Click to expand...

That was actually my first thought was to use some spacers like *these* and use those either under the bracket between it and the case, which would require cutting some holes in the bracket but not the case, and some longer mounting screws, or put the spacer between the bracket and the anti-vibration bushings which likewise would require getting longer screws. Then the thought occurred to me that doubling up the bushings, provided they are similarly threaded on both the male and female ends and can be purchased separately, would be an easier and I suspect better looking option.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> [...] BP has these which I highly recommend:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-anti-vibration-rubber-bolts-m4-4pcs-set.html
> 
> [...] Darlene


Hmmm, if the EK anti-vibration bushings on that EK dual D5 top have M4 threads then it looks like that BP set Darlene suggested might be a viable option if it's easier or cheaper for you to get than one from EK.


----------



## rickcooperjr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> once you push the coolant too fast it cannot dissipate the heat correctly
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickcooperjr*
> if coolant moves to fast the rads won't get enough time to get rid of the heat
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> anybody care to help disprove this?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I read a good little article that applies to car cooling systems (using pumps and radiators for the engine) that applies to our intended loops, and that is actually false... let me find it....
> 
> Here: http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_rules_for_improving_engine_cooling_system_capability_in_high-performance_automobiles.htm
> 
> So, no, slowing the coolant is worse for loops.
Click to expand...

I stated running the coolant to fast would not give radiators enough time to get the heat out before the next recycle is what I stated there is a point where the coolant moves faster than the radiator can dissipate the heat into the air he claims there is no such thing as to high of a coolant flow rate I stated there is that is where this argument came from.


----------



## skupples

numbers.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Is the vinegar too hard to get out?


Not at all, that's why I mentioned a couple flushes with distilled to get rid of the vinegar solution (and any possible leftover flux). Make sure you do flush with distilled tho, you don't want any vinegar in your loop(unless you like copper corrosion).


----------



## IT Diva

The BP dampers are M4, the male thread is 10mm long.

If you cut it a bit shorter, you could easily stack them 2 or 3 high to get the clearance you need for the connectors.

My EK dual D5 top came with brackets that put the dampers to the sides, so setting clearance under the pumps was just a matter of what I used for side rails to mount it to.



Darlene

@XNine, haven't tried the magic cubes yet, but if I need to run another triple 35X sometime, I'll give them a shot.

I like the look of acrylic, especially for pump tops, so for dual 35X setups, I use the Watercool top.

Here's a pair of them next to a dual D5 setup . . much more compact when space is at a premium.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

As I've understood it, or had it explained to me many times, no matter how fast or slow the flow rate is the fluid will always be in the rad for the same amount of time. Think of it this way: If one flow rate is twice as fast as another identical loop the coolant will make two passes through the rad(s) in half the time each as a single pass in the slower loop. A loop with a flow rate three times as fast will make three passes through the rad(s) for 1/3 the time each. No matter how fast or slow, to the point of stopping completely, the fluid spends the same amount of time in the rad(s).

The same amount of time in the rads doesn't mean they are equal though, A faster flow rate increases turbulence though which moves the fluid around more making more of it come into contact with the sides of the channels in the rad than it would at a slower flow rate, which is what allows the heat to be dispelled from the loop, and a faster flow rate's increased turbulence similarly increases fluid contact inside the waterblocks, which is what allows for the heat to be absorbed by the loop, and that's why faster flow rates tend to provide a bit of a benefit over slower rates. There really shouldn't be a such thing as too fast of a flow rate except to the point where it could be damaging to the loop.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> As I've understood it, or had it explained to me many times, no matter how fast or slow the flow rate is the fluid will always be in the rad for the same amount of time. Think of it this way: If one flow rate is twice as fast as another identical loop the coolant will make two passes through the rad(s) in half the time each as a single pass in the slower loop. A loop with a flow rate three times as fast will make three passes through the rad(s) for 1/3 the time each. No matter how fast or slow, to the point of stopping completely, the fluid spends the same amount of time in the rad(s).
> 
> The same amount of time in the rads doesn't mean they are equal though, A faster flow rate increases turbulence though which moves the fluid around more making more of it come into contact with the sides of the channels in the rad than it would at a slower flow rate, which is what allows the heat to be dispelled from the loop, and a faster flow rate's increased turbulence similarly increases fluid contact inside the waterblocks, which is what allows for the heat to be absorbed by the loop, and that's why faster flow rates tend to provide a bit of a benefit over slower rates. There really shouldn't be a such thing as too fast of a flow rate except to the point where it could be damaging to the loop.






From what i've always understood, you are correct...

I however would love to see someone actually disprove it with maths, not just words.


----------



## zoson

One important thing was left out of the previous description:
The fact that you're passing through a radiator twice in the same period of time effectively doubles the surface area that the coolant comes into contact with within the same unit measure of time. This is totally independent of turbulence, although that is a factor which increases the cooling capacity even more.

Higher flowrate is _ALWAYS_ better in all situations.


----------



## wermad

Thought too fast of flow would prevent successful heat transfer, ?


----------



## X-Nine

Ghetto quoted since OCN won't actually quote the post:
Quote:


> I stated running the coolant to fast would not give radiators enough time to get the heat out before the next recycle is what I stated there is a point where the coolant moves faster than the radiator can dissipate the heat into the air he claims there is no such thing as to high of a coolant flow rate I stated there is that is where this argument came from.


The article I linked to is very thorough and has math to back it up, this is false. I'll quote it here:
Quote:


> Looking at the previous expression, *we can see that slowing the coolant down is the wrong way to go. If the heat load is constant, lowering the flow will increase the temperature drop through the radiator, making the bottom tank, or radiator outlet, temperature less than before.* If the bottom tank temperature goes down, the top tank temperature must go up to maintain approximately the same average core temperature so that the heat load may be transferred to the cooling air. At the reduced power setting it would rise above 190 degrees F and at 240 hp the engine would be overheating worse than before. In fact, because the lower flow rate results in lower coolant velocity and less "scrubbing action" in the tubes, the average coolant temperature must rise slightly in order to transfer the heat load from the coolant to the cooling air, making matters even worse.
> 
> *What would happen if we increase the coolant flow? Will it go through the radiator so fast that there won't be time for cooling to take place? Not at all,* from the expression, we can see that if the heat load is constant, increasing the coolant flow rate will reduce the coolant temperature drop through the radiator, resulting in a higher bottom tank temperature. If the bottom tank temperature is increased, the top tank temperature must go down to maintain approximately the same average core temperature. This is what we were hoping to achieve. With the top tank temperature now less that 190 degrees F at the reduced power point, we can expect that the system will be better able to run at 240 hp without overheating, In fact, because the increased coolant flow rate results in a higher coolant flow velocity and better "scrubbing action" in the tubes, the average coolant temperature decreases slightly while transferring the same heat load to the cooling air, further lowering the top tank temperature, resulting in better cooling performance.
> 
> *From this we see that increasing the coolant flow rate will result in better heat transfer performance. There are some cautions to be observed in increasing coolant flow rate, however. Going too far may result in aeration and foaming of the coolant, possible damage to the radiator by overpressure, cavitation of the pump, due to excessive pressure drop through the radiator, and erosion of the radiator tubes. The ideal coolant flow rate is one that will provide optimum coolant flow velocity through the radiator tubes in the range of 6 to 8 feet per second. Flow velocities above 10 feet per second should be avoided.*


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> As I've understood it, or had it explained to me many times, no matter how fast or slow the flow rate is the fluid will always be in the rad for the same amount of time. Think of it this way: If one flow rate is twice as fast as another identical loop the coolant will make two passes through the rad(s) in half the time each as a single pass in the slower loop. A loop with a flow rate three times as fast will make three passes through the rad(s) for 1/3 the time each. No matter how fast or slow, to the point of stopping completely, the fluid spends the same amount of time in the rad(s).
> 
> The same amount of time in the rads doesn't mean they are equal though, A faster flow rate increases turbulence though which moves the fluid around more making more of it come into contact with the sides of the channels in the rad than it would at a slower flow rate, which is what allows the heat to be dispelled from the loop, and a faster flow rate's increased turbulence similarly increases fluid contact inside the waterblocks, which is what allows for the heat to be absorbed by the loop, and that's why faster flow rates tend to provide a bit of a benefit over slower rates. There really shouldn't be a such thing as too fast of a flow rate except to the point where it could be damaging to the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what i've always understood, you are correct...
> 
> I however would love to see someone actually disprove it with maths, not just words.
Click to expand...

Are you sure you're really up to the math that shows that you can pass coolant sufficiently fast to be as efficient as it was at a lower rate?

It isn't going to happen with the kit we use in our hobby, but yea, there's equations that describe the transfer capability and how it effectively relates to dwell time . .

The idea that at twice the speed each molecule spends half the time but gets there twice as often doesn't actually balance when the transfer rate is decreasing.

Maybe Verun or bond32 will weigh in here.

Darlene


----------



## Jakusonfire

What sort of math does it need? Its just a logic thing. As long as the Skin of the rad is hot, it is venting the same amount of heat, no matter how fast the fluid flows inside it.
As the water flow slows however it starts to change temp before it exits the rad, meaning the skin of the rad is also dropping in temp. That means that the rad is venting less heat near its outlet than its inlet, so the average heat dissipation is reduced.
For best performance rads actually need to be kept as warm as possible. High flow rates just make that easier, it doesn't matter that the fluid itself does not change temp much on one cycle through.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> this is why I'm glad my STH10 has the 4x 120.1 holes in the top & bottom of the inner chamber. allows me to drill through them w/o racking my conscience.


Sadly were I am mounting the Pumps will not be on the 120 hole plates. I am do pass through fittings on them for that exact reason though, as i can change them out later if i mix it up.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> What sort of math does it need? Its just a logic thing. As long as the Skin of the rad is hot, it is venting the same amount of heat, no matter how fast the fluid flows inside it.
> As the water flow slows however it starts to change temp before it exits the rad, meaning the skin of the rad is also dropping in temp. That means that the rad is venting less heat near its outlet than its inlet, so the average heat dissipation is reduced.
> For best performance rads actually need to be kept as warm as possible. High flow rates just make that eisier, it doesn't matter that the fluid itself does not change temp much on one cycle through.


----------



## fast_fate

Here's some data that might help - rad x shall we call it








You might have to a bit of maths yourselves, but I placed the W/10ΔT at the end of each row in bold.
Fan rpm and flow rate gpm at start of each row.
But doubling, or even tripling the flow rate has little effect on rad performance.
The overriding factor on any rad's performance is air flow through it, not coolant flow.
Sorry, spreadsheet data doesn't transfer well into here (well not the way I tried anyhow)
fan rpm - flow rate gpm - power input - air in temp - air out temp - coolant in temp - coolant out temp - Cooling Ability (W/10ΔT)
*
1850 1.5* 300.00 watts 29.73 33.41 36.82 - 36.08 *422.71*
*1300 1.5* 300.00 watts 30.03 35.41 38.98 38.23 *335.07*
*750 1.5* 300.00 watts 27.45 37.16 40.85 40.10 *223.94*

*1850 1.0* 300.00 28.18 31.80 35.43 34.31 *413.73*
*1300 1.0* 300.00 25.25 30.54 34.28 33.17 *332.33*
*750 1.0* 300.00 currently running test

*1850 0.5* 300.00 27.97 31.54 35.71 33.66 *387.74*
*1300 0.5* 300.00 26.60 31.75 36.04 33.99 *317.86*
*750 0.5* 300.00 25.92 35.42 39.73 37.69 *217.22*


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Are you sure you're really up to the math that shows that you can pass coolant sufficiently fast to be as efficient as it was at a lower rate?
> 
> It isn't going to happen with the kit we use in our hobby, but yea, there's equations that describe the transfer capability and how it effectively relates to dwell time . .
> 
> The idea that at twice the speed each molecule spends half the time but gets there twice as often doesn't actually balance when the transfer rate is decreasing.
> 
> Maybe Verun or bond32 will weigh in here.
> 
> Darlene





probably not even close,









that wasn't the point though. Normally the person denying the claim needs to present burden of proof.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> What sort of math does it need? Its just a logic thing. As long as the Skin of the rad is hot, it is venting the same amount of heat, no matter how fast the fluid flows inside it.
> As the water flow slows however it starts to change temp before it exits the rad, meaning the skin of the rad is also dropping in temp. That means that the rad is venting less heat near its outlet than its inlet, so the average heat dissipation is reduced.
> For best performance rads actually need to be kept as warm as possible. High flow rates just make that eisier, it doesn't matter that the fluid itself does not change temp much on one cycle through.


Like D said above, at some point there is an adverse effect, just not in our little niche of the world.

but of course, now that this has been brought to light, the people that stated the original hypothesis will no doubt say "THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT i MEANT!" i'm a nuclear Engineer I deal with this every day! "










this is why even with the extra heat dump of a third DDC, my temps were lower than with 2x DDC (all running @ max duty)


----------



## Benjiw

[PG Rating]Oh dear[/PG Rating] what did I start!? lmao!

I just wanted some proof, had physical proof of someone with a CPU loop running his/her D5 at various speeds not evidence of how a car or motorcycle's coolant flow and heat work. A car produces a lot of heat and has to go through many channels before it gets to the whopping rad at the front of the car. This isn't a D5 in a little rig. Although the theory may be similar its comparing apples to oranges.

Surely someone here could do some testing to see how it plays out? Maybe the water can't move too fast but it then goes to show what I originally meant to say was pump speed doesn't matter so long as you're not moving it too slow it does infact start to heat up the loop.

Maybe I should of just left the topic until I could gather some evidence of my own and then make a conclusive evaluation on the subject...


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Jesus christ what did I start!? lmao!
> 
> I just wanted some proof, had physical proof of someone with a CPU loop running his/her D5 at various speeds not evidence of how a car or motorcycle's coolant flow and heat work. A car produces a lot of heat and has to go through many channels before it gets to the whopping rad at the front of the car. This isn't a D5 in a little rig. Although the theory may be similar its comparing apples to oranges.
> 
> Surely someone here could do some testing to see how it plays out? Maybe the water can't move too fast but it then goes to show what I originally meant to say was pump speed doesn't matter so long as you're not moving it too slow it does infact start to heat up the loop.
> 
> Maybe I should of just left the topic until I could gather some evidence of my own and then make a conclusive evaluation on the subject...






I have no empirical data to publish at this time, just my own experience.

3x DDC @ max duty cycle > 2x DDC @ max duty cycle. 3x DDC @ max duty cycle ran ~3C cooler than 2x DDC @ max duty cycle.

2X DDC is ~300L/h in my loop, 3x was ~400L/h.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> I have no empirical data to publish at this time, just my own experience.
> 
> 3x DDC @ max duty cycle > 2x DDC @ max duty cycle. 3x DDC @ max duty cycle ran ~3C cooler than 2x DDC @ max duty cycle.
> 
> 2X DDC is ~300L/h in my loop, 3x was ~400L/h.


Hmm, not sure then, ack so confusing! I suppose you get noobs like me asking this all the time and generally getting confused at the same time too huh?


----------



## skupples

second locking in 24 hours inc!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> second locking in 24 hours inc!


What do you mean? Sorry?


----------



## VSG

Yeah I don't see what Benji's posted that irritated you so much, F_F. Maybe just a misunderstanding?

I will say that he did just gloss over your test data provided which does help out with what he wanted to know.


----------



## fast_fate

we're all good - a few pm's and the issue has been resolved.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I don't see what Benji's posted that irritated you so much, F_F. Maybe just a misunderstanding?
> 
> I will say that he did just gloss over your test data provided which does help out with what he wanted to know.


I'll try to interpret the test data better but I'm still confused, I think He might be christian and my initial part of the post was blasphemes so I've edited to be respectful towards him with a little northern english flair thrown in. Hope you don't mind too much but life is far far far too short to make everything a serious thing.


----------



## VSG

This is what happens when two countries have similar flags









Ok, back to usual business then. Just took custody of 2 400 mL cylinder reservoirs which I will be using for the x99 side in the TX10-D. Now all I need is someone to help with threading G1/4 holes into a large glass jar!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is what happens when two countries have similar flags
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, back to usual business then. Just took custody of 2 400 mL cylinder reservoirs which I will be using for the x99 side in the TX10-D. Now all I need is someone to help with threading G1/4 holes into a large glass jar!


HAHA oi!









And wow that sounds cool! Is this part of a project of yours? Could I have a linky?

EDIT: No wait I found it I remember reading about this some time ago, I'll go sub!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> HAHA oi!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wow that sounds cool! Is this part of a project of yours? Could I have a linky?
> 
> EDIT: No wait I found it I remember reading about this some time ago, I'll go sub!


It's the first link in my sig below, but be warned that it has been long since neglected now. Really need to update it soon!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's the first link in my sig below, but be warned that it has been long since neglected now. Really need to update it soon!


From rebuilding my motorcycle I know how hard a log can be to keep up so I get you, it's a great build you should be really proud! Anyway it's Christmas here in the UK (2am) and I'm now drunk enough to sleep!


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> [PG Rating]Oh dear[/PG Rating] what did I start!? lmao!
> 
> I just wanted some proof, had physical proof of someone with a CPU loop running his/her D5 at various speeds not evidence of how a car or motorcycle's coolant flow and heat work. A car produces a lot of heat and has to go through many channels before it gets to the whopping rad at the front of the car. This isn't a D5 in a little rig. Although the theory may be similar its comparing apples to oranges.
> 
> Surely someone here could do some testing to see how it plays out? Maybe the water can't move too fast but it then goes to show what I originally meant to say was pump speed doesn't matter so long as you're not moving it too slow it does infact start to heat up the loop.
> 
> Maybe I should of just left the topic until I could gather some evidence of my own and then make a conclusive evaluation on the subject...


It is in fact the very same thing. A source of heat being cooled through a loop of coolant with a pump, radiator, and fans. The laws of thermodynamics don't change from a car to a computer. Early watercooling loops on PCs were built out of car and aquarium parts.


----------



## rickcooperjr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> [PG Rating]Oh dear[/PG Rating] what did I start!? lmao!
> 
> I just wanted some proof, had physical proof of someone with a CPU loop running his/her D5 at various speeds not evidence of how a car or motorcycle's coolant flow and heat work. A car produces a lot of heat and has to go through many channels before it gets to the whopping rad at the front of the car. This isn't a D5 in a little rig. Although the theory may be similar its comparing apples to oranges.
> 
> Surely someone here could do some testing to see how it plays out? Maybe the water can't move too fast but it then goes to show what I originally meant to say was pump speed doesn't matter so long as you're not moving it too slow it does infact start to heat up the loop.
> 
> Maybe I should of just left the topic until I could gather some evidence of my own and then make a conclusive evaluation on the subject...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is in fact the very same thing. A source of heat being cooled through a loop of coolant with a pump, radiator, and fans. The laws of thermodynamics don't change from a car to a computer. Early watercooling loops on PCs were built out of car and aquarium parts.
Click to expand...

yep early stuff was GM comaro heater cores ( they were the cheapest and easiest to get ) and often the AC evap/ condensor cores were also used along with car radiators which is what I am using currently along with a large transmission cooler all mounted in a cooling cabinet under my computer.


----------



## lowfat

Actually it was Chevette and Bonneville heatercores. And if you hardcore you got WeaponX from OCF to build you a couple of his bauce shrouds.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickcooperjr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> [PG Rating]Oh dear[/PG Rating] what did I start!? lmao!
> 
> I just wanted some proof, had physical proof of someone with a CPU loop running his/her D5 at various speeds not evidence of how a car or motorcycle's coolant flow and heat work. A car produces a lot of heat and has to go through many channels before it gets to the whopping rad at the front of the car. This isn't a D5 in a little rig. Although the theory may be similar its comparing apples to oranges.
> 
> Surely someone here could do some testing to see how it plays out? Maybe the water can't move too fast but it then goes to show what I originally meant to say was pump speed doesn't matter so long as you're not moving it too slow it does infact start to heat up the loop.
> 
> Maybe I should of just left the topic until I could gather some evidence of my own and then make a conclusive evaluation on the subject...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is in fact the very same thing. A source of heat being cooled through a loop of coolant with a pump, radiator, and fans. The laws of thermodynamics don't change from a car to a computer. Early watercooling loops on PCs were built out of car and aquarium parts.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yep early stuff was GM comaro heater cores ( they were the cheapest and easiest to get ) and often the AC evap/ condensor cores were also used along with car radiators which is what I am using currently along with a large transmission cooler all mounted in a cooling cabinet under my computer.
Click to expand...

I demand pictures of this astounding sounding set up!


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Woah, that's the closest username to mine! I've actually used xNine for one or two of my other accounts of different sites.


----------



## TheCautiousOne




----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Woah, that's the closest username to mine! I've actually used xNine for one or two of my other accounts of different sites.


I've been using this nick since 1994 in arcades, except it was always X9! in the initials scoring.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I demand pictures of this astounding sounding set up!


agreed, screenshots or it didn't happen.


----------



## rickcooperjr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickcooperjr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> [PG Rating]Oh dear[/PG Rating] what did I start!? lmao!
> 
> I just wanted some proof, had physical proof of someone with a CPU loop running his/her D5 at various speeds not evidence of how a car or motorcycle's coolant flow and heat work. A car produces a lot of heat and has to go through many channels before it gets to the whopping rad at the front of the car. This isn't a D5 in a little rig. Although the theory may be similar its comparing apples to oranges.
> 
> Surely someone here could do some testing to see how it plays out? Maybe the water can't move too fast but it then goes to show what I originally meant to say was pump speed doesn't matter so long as you're not moving it too slow it does infact start to heat up the loop.
> 
> Maybe I should of just left the topic until I could gather some evidence of my own and then make a conclusive evaluation on the subject...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is in fact the very same thing. A source of heat being cooled through a loop of coolant with a pump, radiator, and fans. The laws of thermodynamics don't change from a car to a computer. Early watercooling loops on PCs were built out of car and aquarium parts.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yep early stuff was GM comaro heater cores ( they were the cheapest and easiest to get ) and often the AC evap/ condensor cores were also used along with car radiators which is what I am using currently along with a large transmission cooler all mounted in a cooling cabinet under my computer.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I demand pictures of this astounding sounding set up!
Click to expand...

look in my photos you can plainly see my pics of my car radiator I recently added some new ones of my large cummins trans cooler and such in the 5ghz 24/7 OC club thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1519033/5-ghz-24-7-oc-club keep in mind all these were new not used. My cooling setup got me a max temp of 52c running IBT AVX @5ghz x8 at 1.536v or so with also 3x 290X matrix's in the same loop.


----------



## skupples

this?


----------



## rickcooperjr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> this?


That was a really old one mind you when I was still experimenting with how I wanted it. http://www.overclock.net/t/1519033/5-ghz-24-7-oc-club/80#post_23275221 here is a bit more recent of pics on here I did. I was not after winning beauty pageants I wanted a all out functionality first then make it pretty later.


----------



## Agenesis

Have you tried using a box fan? Consumes about 30w and can be had for $20.

Although for the size you probably only need a little breeze going to cool things down.


----------



## rickcooperjr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Have you tried using a box fan? Consumes about 30w and can be had for $20.
> 
> Although for the size you probably only need a little breeze going to cool things down.


yeah I run whisper quiet all the fans are running on 5v 90% of time. I use a secondary power supply to power the prime pump and fans on radiator / trans cooler. I use a 2 way switch to choose between 12v and 5v the 5v is my main run setting because don't need anymore than that unless all out torturing or it is crazy hot in the room which happened this summer my secondary climate control failed and the room got to around 80f-90f.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I've been using this nick since 1994 in arcades, except it was always X9! in the initials scoring.


Made mine when MW2 was out because of the cool title.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> It is in fact the very same thing. A source of heat being cooled through a loop of coolant with a pump, radiator, and fans. The laws of thermodynamics don't change from a car to a computer. Early watercooling loops on PCs were built out of car and aquarium parts.


I'm still so confused.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Question, how much water do you guys estimate it should take to fill my loop?



Spoiler: This thing







I got about 700ml in it atm (res 3/4 full), pumps quiet apart from the odd air bubble (did this with the air lock to) but theres still heaps of air in the top rad as usual









The air exhaust fittings dont seem to be much help either they just keep putting air back into the loop even with the pump running


----------



## wermad

Im guesstimating mine is using ~2.5L.

Close your loop and rock the case. Will help bleed air.


----------



## skupples

bleed caps letting air back into the system? That's a new one for me.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Im guesstimating mine is using ~2.5L.
> 
> Close your loop and rock the case. Will help bleed air.










thats heaps lol, last time I think mine needed 1.5L but that was with a massive res

I have done that, seems like the air exhaust valves are veeeeeeeeery slowly working

I'm still thinking my CPU block is stopping flow some how, if it doesnt fill today I'm buying a new block








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> bleed caps letting air back into the system? That's a new one for me.


Thats just what it seemed like, I'd push it in then my rest would almost be over flowing


----------



## skupples

almost sounds like blockage to me, but I've never really had to deal with that, so not sure.

the quickest way for me to bleed the STH10 (even with the new rad with zero top ports) is to just open up the ports on the two top radiators. air comes farting out, then a stream of water.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> almost sounds like blockage to me, but I've never really had to deal with that, so not sure.
> 
> the quickest way for me to bleed the STH10 (even with the new rad with zero top ports) is to just open up the ports on the two top radiators. air comes farting out, then a stream of water.


I checked everything a few weeks ago and it shouldnt be blocked, unless all the dusts blocked it









I dont have that luxury with the rads I have hence the air exhaust valves, they do actually seem to be working but just annoying slowly









Maybe next rebuild end of 2015 early 2016 I'll buy new rads, pump etc (providing this actually works now)

Noticed one thing tho, some how my res cap isnt screwed down fully (half a mm off)







even tho it was lastnight, oh well it can stay like that now


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Question, how much water do you guys estimate it should take to fill my loop?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: This thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got about 700ml in it atm (res 3/4 full), pumps quiet apart from the odd air bubble (did this with the air lock to) but theres still heaps of air in the top rad as usual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The air exhaust fittings dont seem to be much help either they just keep putting air back into the loop even with the pump running


360 rad ... 200 ml
240 rad ... 165ml
water blocks ... maybe 100ml
that just leaves the res and tubing which I rockon would be half a litre roughly.

Those air exhaust fittings can def let air in the system when the pump isn't running. If they are on the outlet side of the top rad then all that water is under negative pressure being held in place by all the water that would have to travel up hill to replace it. The air fitting lets air in instead and water can drain down to the res. I've never tried to use them when filling and with the pump running, but it could be a similar thing.

Thats a pretty small loop with small volume rads and really shouldn't need specialised fittings to bleed. Turning the pump on and off will often move more air than just letting a pump run and also tipping the case around while the pump is off helps a lot too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Ghetto quoted since OCN won't actually quote the post:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I stated running the coolant to fast would not give radiators enough time to get the heat out before the next recycle is what I stated there is a point where the coolant moves faster than the radiator can dissipate the heat into the air he claims there is no such thing as to high of a coolant flow rate I stated there is that is where this argument came from.
> 
> 
> 
> The article I linked to is very thorough and has math to back it up, this is false. I'll quote it here:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the previous expression, *we can see that slowing the coolant down is the wrong way to go. If the heat load is constant, lowering the flow will increase the temperature drop through the radiator, making the bottom tank, or radiator outlet, temperature less than before.* If the bottom tank temperature goes down, the top tank temperature must go up to maintain approximately the same average core temperature so that the heat load may be transferred to the cooling air. At the reduced power setting it would rise above 190 degrees F and at 240 hp the engine would be overheating worse than before. In fact, because the lower flow rate results in lower coolant velocity and less "scrubbing action" in the tubes, the average coolant temperature must rise slightly in order to transfer the heat load from the coolant to the cooling air, making matters even worse.
> 
> *What would happen if we increase the coolant flow? Will it go through the radiator so fast that there won't be time for cooling to take place? Not at all,* from the expression, we can see that if the heat load is constant, increasing the coolant flow rate will reduce the coolant temperature drop through the radiator, resulting in a higher bottom tank temperature. If the bottom tank temperature is increased, the top tank temperature must go down to maintain approximately the same average core temperature. This is what we were hoping to achieve. With the top tank temperature now less that 190 degrees F at the reduced power point, we can expect that the system will be better able to run at 240 hp without overheating, In fact, because the increased coolant flow rate results in a higher coolant flow velocity and better "scrubbing action" in the tubes, the average coolant temperature decreases slightly while transferring the same heat load to the cooling air, further lowering the top tank temperature, resulting in better cooling performance.
> 
> *From this we see that increasing the coolant flow rate will result in better heat transfer performance. There are some cautions to be observed in increasing coolant flow rate, however. Going too far may result in aeration and foaming of the coolant, possible damage to the radiator by overpressure, cavitation of the pump, due to excessive pressure drop through the radiator, and erosion of the radiator tubes. The ideal coolant flow rate is one that will provide optimum coolant flow velocity through the radiator tubes in the range of 6 to 8 feet per second. Flow velocities above 10 feet per second should be avoided.*
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

IF you have copper blocks then even this flow rate is too high,velocity based erosion from the waterflow occurs on copper at these flow rates.

The recommended maximum velocity for water in a copper tube system is 5 - 8 fps for cold water systems, 4 - 5 fps for hot water systems < 140º F, and 2-3 fps for hot water systems with a temperature greater than 140º F.
I doubt you will even notice the erosion but its there and copper microfins are thin.....

As long as the flow rate is over the magic 1 GPM mark the your kit will be performing as designed. You will never lose performance with flow rate gain but your ROI will dramatically reduce.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 360 rad ... 200 ml
> 240 rad ... 165ml
> water blocks ... maybe 100ml
> that just leaves the res and tubing which I rockon would be half a litre roughly.


Thanks so I'd need around 1.2l to fill my loop then?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Those air exhaust fittings can def let air in the system when the pump isn't running. If they are on the outlet side of the top rad then all that water is under negative pressure being held in place by all the water that would have to travel up hill to replace it. The air fitting lets air in instead and water can drain down to the res. I've never tried to use them when filling and with the pump running, but it could be a similar thing.










that defeats the purpose of them then, I thought having one on the way to my front rad would push the air out and let the water through, seems logical









When the pumps on and I use the valve air does come out then eventually water come out to but a lot of water does go into the res, dunno if its going backwards of not tho
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Thats a pretty small loop with small volume rads and really shouldn't need specialised fittings to bleed. Turning the pump on and off will often move more air than just letting a pump run and also tipping the case around while the pump is off helps a lot too.


I've always had problems filling and bleeding this thing, takes me 3ish hours to fill the whole thing for some reason (if it works at all), I have been turning the pump on and off and tipping the case but it does basically nothing

I will say this I have a bit more water in my top rad then I did last time, last time I had maybe 50ml this time it sounds like I have maybe 100 - 150ml

I still seriously think my pump, CPU block or GPU block is stopping the flow some how, something just doesnt seem right but when I did a flow test out of my rig it seemed to work ok, then again it wasnt going up hill


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 360 rad ... 200 ml
> 240 rad ... 165ml
> water blocks ... maybe 100ml
> that just leaves the res and tubing which I rockon would be half a litre roughly.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so I'd need around 1.2l to fill my loop then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Those air exhaust fittings can def let air in the system when the pump isn't running. If they are on the outlet side of the top rad then all that water is under negative pressure being held in place by all the water that would have to travel up hill to replace it. The air fitting lets air in instead and water can drain down to the res. I've never tried to use them when filling and with the pump running, but it could be a similar thing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that defeats the purpose of them then, I thought having one on the way to my front rad would push the air out and let the water through, seems logical
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the pumps on and I use the valve air does come out then eventually water come out to but a lot of water does go into the res, dunno if its going backwards of not tho
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Thats a pretty small loop with small volume rads and really shouldn't need specialised fittings to bleed. Turning the pump on and off will often move more air than just letting a pump run and also tipping the case around while the pump is off helps a lot too.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've always had problems filling and bleeding this thing, takes me 3ish hours to fill the whole thing for some reason (if it works at all), I have been turning the pump on and off and tipping the case but it does basically nothing
> 
> I will say this I have A LOT more water in my top rad then I did last time, last time I had maybe 50ml this time it sounds pretty much full
Click to expand...

Lol....

Those pressure equalizers are supposed to be on the res airside,not in loop waterside.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol....
> 
> Those pressure equalizers are supposed to be on the res airside,not in loop waterside.


Hey when I asked 3 weeks ago people said they would be fine on my rad

I have got one on my res to seeing I needed to fill a spot in the top port









Edit, I'll ask this again, would it be my CPU block or pump thats stopping the flow to my top rad?, checked again and surprise surprise the flow drops to nothing in between my CPU and GPU blocks







it did work like usual for about 20 mins then just started being useless once again, getting sick of this crap


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickcooperjr*
> 
> I stated running the coolant to fast would not give radiators enough time to get the heat out before the next recycle is what I stated there is a point where the coolant moves faster than the radiator can dissipate the heat into the air he claims there is no such thing as to high of a coolant flow rate I stated there is that is where this argument came from.


In the same argument you could say the liquid is moving too fast over the bloc to absorb heat
which in turn would say too much air velocity through a radiator wouldn't give enough time to absorb heat from the radiator
I believe without digging through a lot of data as long as you are above 1GPM any tangible benefits as I recall don't quote me on this was above 10GPM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> One important thing was left out of the previous description:
> The fact that you're passing through a radiator twice in the same period of time effectively doubles the surface area that the coolant comes into contact with within the same unit measure of time. This is totally independent of turbulence, although that is a factor which increases the cooling capacity even more.
> 
> Higher flowrate is _ALWAYS_ better in all situations.


I think almost always I have some Speck 8000 pumps
 after this test I ran the pump for 1 hour the heat this pump dropped into the bucket started at 15°C after an hour the water was 35°C I am seriously considering this 80w pump is a tad too much for what I have planned for it as it does =80w of extra heat in the loop and I am not convinced that that all that heat came from the pump
I have no proof on this but I am theorising that the friction between water and micro fins may have generated additional heat.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah certain pumps could generate heat.
my e3 will generate a little but its only noticable after the fans being off for over 24hours
(my pump never turns off its a separate entity from my PC


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Ghetto quoted since OCN won't actually quote the post:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I stated running the coolant to fast would not give radiators enough time to get the heat out before the next recycle is what I stated there is a point where the coolant moves faster than the radiator can dissipate the heat into the air he claims there is no such thing as to high of a coolant flow rate I stated there is that is where this argument came from.
> 
> 
> 
> The article I linked to is very thorough and has math to back it up, this is false. I'll quote it here:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the previous expression, *we can see that slowing the coolant down is the wrong way to go. If the heat load is constant, lowering the flow will increase the temperature drop through the radiator, making the bottom tank, or radiator outlet, temperature less than before.* If the bottom tank temperature goes down, the top tank temperature must go up to maintain approximately the same average core temperature so that the heat load may be transferred to the cooling air. At the reduced power setting it would rise above 190 degrees F and at 240 hp the engine would be overheating worse than before. In fact, because the lower flow rate results in lower coolant velocity and less "scrubbing action" in the tubes, the average coolant temperature must rise slightly in order to transfer the heat load from the coolant to the cooling air, making matters even worse.
> 
> *What would happen if we increase the coolant flow? Will it go through the radiator so fast that there won't be time for cooling to take place? Not at all,* from the expression, we can see that if the heat load is constant, increasing the coolant flow rate will reduce the coolant temperature drop through the radiator, resulting in a higher bottom tank temperature. If the bottom tank temperature is increased, the top tank temperature must go down to maintain approximately the same average core temperature. This is what we were hoping to achieve. With the top tank temperature now less that 190 degrees F at the reduced power point, we can expect that the system will be better able to run at 240 hp without overheating, In fact, because the increased coolant flow rate results in a higher coolant flow velocity and better "scrubbing action" in the tubes, the average coolant temperature decreases slightly while transferring the same heat load to the cooling air, further lowering the top tank temperature, resulting in better cooling performance.
> 
> *From this we see that increasing the coolant flow rate will result in better heat transfer performance. There are some cautions to be observed in increasing coolant flow rate, however. Going too far may result in aeration and foaming of the coolant, possible damage to the radiator by overpressure, cavitation of the pump, due to excessive pressure drop through the radiator, and erosion of the radiator tubes. The ideal coolant flow rate is one that will provide optimum coolant flow velocity through the radiator tubes in the range of 6 to 8 feet per second. Flow velocities above 10 feet per second should be avoided.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> IF you have copper blocks then even this flow rate is too high,velocity based erosion from the waterflow occurs on copper at these flow rates.
> 
> The recommended maximum velocity for water in a copper tube system is 5 - 8 fps for cold water systems, 4 - 5 fps for hot water systems < 140º F, and 2-3 fps for hot water systems with a temperature greater than 140º F.
> I doubt you will even notice the erosion but its there and copper microfins are thin.....
> 
> As long as the flow rate is over the magic 1 GPM mark the your kit will be performing as designed. You will never lose performance with flow rate gain but your ROI will dramatically reduce.
Click to expand...

Yes, I know that flow was too high, but that was in reference to a car's flow rate, not a PC. The article was simply about the math and reasoning behind coolant flow rates and such... In cars. I was just using it because the same laws of thermodynamics apply to our hobby.


----------



## Chopper1591

Merry X

Some people here that are willing to give me some ideas on how to put my loop together when I include the gpu?

Current state:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Have an extra 140mm radiator which I will place in the roof of the case. Have space for two 140mm fans in the top so that gives me some extra options for tubing. Will put the rad as pull exhaust to require the least tubing.
Gpu block will be an EK.

Still laying around here:

one 90 degree Rotary BP fitting
two BP barbs
one 45 degree Rotary adapter

Only have about one foot, maybe slightly more, of tubing left.
Hoping to be able to use the current tubing without having to buy extra.

Go crazy on the paint skillz.









Thanks all.


----------



## X-Nine

I'm kind of confused as to what's going on there, but considering your pump placement, I would do pump>gpu>cpu then wherever you want to go from there.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I'm kind of confused as to what's going on there, but considering your pump placement, I would do pump>gpu>cpu then wherever you want to go from there.


I don't know by what you are confused really.

Look, I can place the 140.1 rad in either of these two spots. Which gives me multiple options as to where the fittings will be.


Will folow your advice and see how I can get the loop to be in that order and use the least amount of tubing possible.


----------



## electro2u

See that's unique. That's what I subbed to this thread for. Pictures of peoples' loops. I like to see stuff that isn't sponsored or the result of a spending contest.

Personally I would just cut that return tube that's going from the CPU outlet back to the Reservoir, and go

Res/pump>Rad>(Rad)>CPU>GPU>Res


----------



## aka13

How does this look like, not too bad?


----------



## emsj86

The start of my Christmas mcp50x pump wires burned up caught fire in my pc. Hopefully it's just the pump. Going to run to microcenter and get a mcp35x tomorrow and just sell the warrenty mcp50x bc I can't wait that long. Do I need a heatsink for the mcp35x?


----------



## zoson

Nobody needs a heatsink on their pump. Water goes through the pump just like any other hot component. That heat is carried to the rads and then blown off by your fans.

The pump heatsinks are purely for looks only and don't do anything in reality. Just like ramsinks.


----------



## lowfat

A heatsink on a DDC is not only for aesthetics. Water does not cool the PCB on a DDC. A heatsink is beneficial but only if you have a lower restriction loop.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A heatsink on a DDC is not only for aesthetics. Water does not cool the PCB on a DDC. A heatsink is beneficial but only if you have a lower restriction loop.


Thermodynamics proves this statement is totally false. Heat flows to low gradients. It may not flow as freely through insulating material, but it does. The components on the PCB of a DDC do not need active cooling. That is the end of the story.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Thermodynamics proves this statement is totally false. Heat flows to low gradients. It may not flow as freely through insulating material, but it does. The components on the PCB of a DDC do not need active cooling. That is the end of the story.


You are straight up wrong bro. Take a DDC3 install it in a loop w/ just a radiator and reservoir. Run the pump at full speed. No matter what the water temperature is, it will die within hours. The PCB will be running north of 100C. This has been proven over and over.


----------



## emsj86

I have a 360 rad up too 240 on bottom (both slim) ek supremacy evo, ek 780 gpu block and bitspower res with 4 90 fittings and 6 straight fittings. Would that be considered low restriction. And for the time being could I use some stick on heatsinks bc microcenter doesn't have the mcp35x heatsink. Just until I can have one shipped out. If it makes a difference I'm going arylic tubing tomorrow as well


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You are straight up wrong bro. Take a DDC3 install it in a loop w/ just a radiator and reservoir. Run the pump at full speed. No matter what the water temperature is, it will die within hours. The PCB will be running north of 100C. This has been proven over and over.


This. When leak resting my loop with dual mcp35x pumps, the pump housing was getting really warm to the touch running at full speed. Once I got the bios set up to keep them running at 25% PWM they don't feel warm at all.

@zoson, that is not correct. DDC pumps are not cooled by the water passing through them. Only D5 pumps are cooled by the passing through coolant. That's why there are the DDC heatsinks but you never see a D5 heatsink.


----------



## aka13

What does the second D in DDC stand for? DC is direct current, right?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Nobody needs a heatsink on their pump. Water goes through the pump just like any other hot component. That heat is carried to the rads and then blown off by your fans.
> 
> The pump heatsinks are purely for looks only and don't do anything in reality. Just like ramsinks.


Tell that to Dazmode, oh and all of those DDCs that have cooked them selves, specially mcp35x when people put the foam on the bottom.


----------



## zoson

Been running my 35x2 at full speed for years... On top of some open cell insulation foam to quiet it down. No problems. The act of the water passing through the pump at all cools the entire assembly. These devices in general have a high failure rate. Insufficient cooling has nothing to do with it.


----------



## skupples

The PCBs can and have literally cooked themselves to death, and no they aren't high failure rate devices though DDC does fail more often than d5, mostly due to them being put into low restriction loops at full tilt.


----------



## skupples

I have the pictures around here somewhere of the drastic drop in temps from installing the EK housing.


----------



## agung79

If like that, then why the ddc heatsink become default with ddc it self or they should put some warning on the box "heatsink sold separately" or "not for tropical country" lol just kidding .... I have two dead ddc... Love my 2 d5 pumps...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Been running my 35x2 at full speed for years... On top of some open cell insulation foam to quiet it down. No problems. The act of the water passing through the pump at all cools the entire assembly. These devices in general have a high failure rate. Insufficient cooling has nothing to do with it.


Dumb question but I'm not famat with d5. But without a pump top does a swiftech d5 have 1/4 fittings or no


----------



## waveaddict

Sense were on the subject,will a Bitspower heatsink fit a EK-DDC 3,2 pwm x-top as well as anti-vib feet?


----------



## Alex132

All this DDC heat talk: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/05/30/ddc3-2-pump-heat-scoping/


----------



## aka13

Can I actually run a mobo without having the cpu 4pin header connected to anything?


----------



## psycho84

Do you mean the Fan Header ?


----------



## aka13

The header meant for connecting the Cpu fan. I mean, with a custom loop I have my pump/fans controlled without it.


----------



## psycho84

Maybe the MB stops booting with an Fan Error, then you have to disable the Monitoring in BIOS but thats all what can happen


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agung79*
> 
> If like that, then why the ddc heatsink become default with ddc it self or they should put some warning on the box "heatsink sold separately" or "not for tropical country" lol just kidding .... I have two dead ddc... Love my 2 d5 pumps...


I do agree that Laing / resellers / rebranders should label them in such a way to let people know that they really aren't for your typical small & low restriction loop.

Like I'v said before. I've been running the same DDCs for years, but i'm also a 90 degree fitting whore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> The header meant for connecting the Cpu fan. I mean, with a custom loop I have my pump/fans controlled without it.


disable in bios.


----------



## wermad

I can barely hear my D5 from under my desk and it does make a nice pleasant hum. Almost gets blend in w/ the external hdd noise. The 35X at full blast could be heard, but its more of a drone, whirl noise. Noise wise, definitely a D5 if you have the space. Still doing fine going through: monsta 480>monsta 480>gpu/gpu/gpu>monsta 480>cpu> res.


----------



## agung79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I do agree that Laing / resellers / rebranders should label them in such a way to let people know that they really aren't for your typical small & low restriction loop.
> 
> Like I'v said before. I've been running the same DDCs for years, but i'm also a 90 degree fitting whore.
> disable in bios.


Low restrictions... Hmm... I'm not really how to measure my restrictions loops... I used 360xt 360pe 420xt 140xt cpu 2 univ gpu and for fittings 4x90 n 6x45 with soft tubing....
Are they low, med or high restrictions? Oh and with ek top 2d5 and res combo with ddc but without ddc magnet... To cooling 9370 1,52vcore @5ghz... Water become 42Cdeg with ambient 32Cdeg...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

DDC pumps have always been prone to overheating to the point of failure at full speed and slowing them down is what lowers temps, and lowfat is as much or more aware of that fact than anyone. He's not the only one though. There's been many many threads of overheated / melted down DDCs over the years. You really haven't been paying attention if you're not aware of the DDC's heat related reliability issues.

Having more than a few blocks of restriction can help to slow an 18/20W DDC pump down in much the same way as PWM control lets you slow the pump speed down, both having the effect of the pump not getting as hot as it will if let to run at full speed. That's why the MCP35X and EK DDC 3.2 PWM are so much more reliable than earlier models, and really should be the only 18/20w DDC pumps anyone buys any more, because they can be slowed down so that they don't overheat. On top of that having a heatsink on your 18/20w DDC is a good idea.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/05/30/ddc3-2-pump-heat-scoping/


----------



## emsj86

I would like to grab a d5 pump but the way my set up is I would need to get some sort of mount to mount the d5 Po horizontal on my sp120 fans that sit on my bottom 240mm rad. Sucks my mcp50x caught fire I can't be sure but I don't think it was the pump itself but the wires going in. Similar to the reports of a few with the 240l glacer and h220 where the wires going in would burn up


----------



## agung79

Yup... a lot of things to learning from this forum.... Love it...


----------



## emsj86

The people on this forum the main stays and they know who they are. Just want to say thank you. Your advise and help is greatly appreciate and wish I could make it up to yu guys. Merry Christmas


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> How about we discuss that the temperatures measured by Martin are actually *FULLY WITHIN SPEC* for the Fairchild 4532 FET?
> https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/SI/SI4532DY.pdf
> 
> Seriously, I don't know why I even bother with this crap. It's like you all think you know better than an actual electrical engineer who designs circuits like this using these exact same components.
> 
> The *MINIMUM* operating temp of these FETs is supposed to be 55C, and they are within normal operating spec for 150C+...


I'm not an electrical engineer but I do know that DDCs run at full speed with little restriction to slow them down melt to the point of failure, especially if they didn't have a heatsink on them. It's not even debatable at this point. That's why there's so many threads of melted down DDC pumps where we see damage like shown below happen over and over, though admittedly a lot less so these days now that people figured out what was making it happen and that the PWM versions have become the most popular sold.









And that's just what came up with a few minutes searching. There's a lot more just like those out there. I couldn't count how many posts I've seen of DDCs like that.


----------



## skupples

just make sure to discredit the ones where you see white residue, and other not-normal to burnt PCB looking stuffs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> How about we discuss that the temperatures measured by Martin are actually *FULLY WITHIN SPEC* for the Fairchild 4532 FET?
> https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/SI/SI4532DY.pdf
> 
> Seriously, I don't know why I even bother with this crap. It's like you all think you know better than an actual electrical engineer who designs circuits like this using these exact same components.
> 
> The *MINIMUM* operating temp of these FETs is supposed to be 55C, and they are within normal operating spec for 150C+...


How about you use some Google Fu? Its very common knowledge that DDC pumps are prone to destroying themselves at high speed in low restriction loops,there are _many_ examples of this.

We DO know better thru careful observation rather than your supposition,like the VRM is the only component that matters? There are a plethora of components on those PCB's.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How about you use some Google Fu? Its very common knowledge that DDC pumps are prone to destroying themselves at high speed in low restriction loops,there are _many_ examples of this.
> 
> We DO know better thru careful observation rather than your supposition,like the VRM is the only component that matters? There are a plethora of components on those PCB's.


This does not contradict what I said originally about these devices having a high failure rate in general. All you've done is add confirmation bias. Yes, these pumps die all the time... Nobody said they don't. But again, it has NOTHING to do with temperature and everything to do with the fact that the DDC assembly is garbage and the devices that failed would have failed regardless.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How about you use some Google Fu? Its very common knowledge that DDC pumps are prone to destroying themselves at high speed in low restriction loops,there are _many_ examples of this.
> 
> We DO know better thru careful observation rather than your supposition,like the VRM is the only component that matters? There are a plethora of components on those PCB's.
> 
> 
> 
> This does not contradict what I said originally about these devices having a high failure rate in general. All you've done is add confirmation bias. Yes, these pumps die all the time... Nobody said they don't. But again, it has NOTHING to do with temperature and everything to do with the fact that the DDC assembly is garbage and the devices that failed would have failed regardless.
Click to expand...

Sigh.

No,its heat,molten casings are a dead give away.

The 10w DDC is great for reliability,the 18w variants less so. They do not die in their intended use as solar recirc pumps.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sigh.
> 
> No,its heat,molten casings are a dead give away.
> 
> The 10w DDC is great for reliability,the 18w variants less so. They do not die in their intended use as solar recirc pumps.


The molten casing is a symptom of the source short, which causes rapid temperature runaway. Again, the temperature/heat explosion is just a symptom of the bad assembly/design. The #1 cause of failure in FETs is a drain-source short. What is the PRIMARY cause of a drain-source short? Excessive over OR undervoltage on the gate. These are 20v FETs. It's not a mystery that 20v FETs are failing frequently when being CONSTANTLY undervolted at 12v, or, 40% under spec.

So yeah, confirmation bias because a drain-source short leads to thermal runaway - which in turn leads to an exploding FET - which in turn leads to the outward symptoms you just rattled off.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> The molten casing is a symptom of the source short, which causes rapid temperature runaway. Again, the temperature/heat explosion is just a symptom of the bad assembly/design. The #1 cause of failure in FETs is a drain-source short. What is the PRIMARY cause of a drain-source short? Excessive over OR undervoltage on the gate. These are 20v FETs. It's not a mystery that 20v FETs are failing frequently when being CONSTANTLY undervolted at 12v, or, 40% under spec.
> 
> So yeah, confirmation bias because a drain-source short leads to thermal runaway - which in turn leads to an exploding FET - which in turn leads to the outward symptoms you just rattled off.


except they aren't being undervolted. PWM supplies a constant 12v. That's why voltage control can damage PWM devices. And if what you say is true, and the water actually does cool the pump, why when running my pumps at full speed do the pumps get warm and when I run them at 25% PWM they stay nice and cool. By your explanation it should be the other way around.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So was talking to a couple of guys from the aussie forums lastnight about my watercooling and he said the reason my loop isnt filling correctly is probably due to this
Quote:


> i agree with that other dood..
> i think ur problem is the small res and its down so low.
> 
> as he said it cant lift enough water up to fill the top rad before the res is empty and u need to shut down and refill it..
> at which point all the water falls back down again and refills the res.


Then he said how to fix my current problem
Quote:


> are those rads multiport?
> 
> easiest solution if they are is to fill via the top rad.
> 
> other option is to add a fill port above the top rad somehow
> eiher with a tube direct to teh res
> or a t fitting up on the top rad itself and essentially make a spare port
> 
> make sense?
> 
> nothing wrong with small resz or having the res/pump down low...
> BUT doing both causes this issue.
> so its one or the other.
> 
> i always try to mount my res as high as poss for this reason
> makes filling so much easier.


Do you guys agree?

If so what are some good multi port rads that will fit in my SM5 that are around 40mm thick and preferably matte black?

I was already filling with a long tube above the top rad and it didnt help









Thanks


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I was already filling with a long tube above the top rad and it didnt help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I've filled a loop with a small res at the bottom of a loop before (He had it sitting on the bottom of his case) the easiest way I got it to fill properly was using a long tube ontop of the res, with a funnel on top, then filled as I turned it on. The only issue is you need to pay close attention to the water in the loop, so you don't overfill.

You can always lay your tower on it's side, So it's not having to pump so high up to get it started.

Best of luck!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> I've filled a loop with a small res at the bottom of a loop before (He had it sitting on the bottom of his case) the easiest way I got it to fill properly was using a long tube ontop of the res, with a funnel on top, then filled as I turned it on. The only issue is you need to pay close attention to the water in the loop, so you don't overfill.
> 
> You can always lay your tower on it's side, So it's not having to pump so high up to get it started.
> 
> Best of luck!


Ok I'll try that and see how it goes

It's weird tho, it takes 2 lots of water from the full res and get stuck on the third, my res is still 3/4 full atm but water just wont move anymore


----------



## rickcooperjr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> I've filled a loop with a small res at the bottom of a loop before (He had it sitting on the bottom of his case) the easiest way I got it to fill properly was using a long tube ontop of the res, with a funnel on top, then filled as I turned it on. The only issue is you need to pay close attention to the water in the loop, so you don't overfill.
> 
> You can always lay your tower on it's side, So it's not having to pump so high up to get it started.
> 
> Best of luck!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'll try that and see how it goes
> 
> It's weird tho, it takes 2 lots of water from the full res and get stuck on the third, my res is still 3/4 full atm but water just wont move anymore
Click to expand...

Sounds as if you air locked your pump the pump won't move air never let the pump run the res dry or you can air lock the system which will do your exact results. The water has more weight / pressure forcing back against the air locked pump stopping the pump from picking up more coolant and pushing it thru system kind of like vapor locking a car fuel system back in the day.

I want to state as other guy said your res needs to be near highest point of loop feeding directly to pump inlet for proper filling so you never deal with this issue having res low in the unit often adds some hassle to filling and such especially with burping the system. PLZ learn form this experience so you know proper way to deal with it or design differently in future to avoid such hassles.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickcooperjr*
> 
> Sounds as if you air locked your pump the pump won't move air never let the pump run the res dry or you can air lock the system which will do your exact results. The water has more weight / pressure forcing back against the air locked pump stopping the pump from picking up more coolant and pushing it thru system kind of like vapor locking a car fuel system back in the day.
> 
> I want to state as other guy said your res needs to be near highest point of loop feeding directly to pump inlet for proper filling so you never deal with this issue having res low in the unit often adds some hassle to filling and such especially with burping the system. PLZ learn form this experience so you know proper way to deal with it or design differently in future to avoid such hassles.


Yeah apparently thats what its doing







guy on the aussie forums said it could be the tube in the res I have for the front rad thats causing problems so I'm gonna try to take that out and see how it goes

I figured, this has been a massive pita since I pulled it apart 3 months ago, I never had this issue with my old build but I was using a 150mm res not an 80mm and I didnt have all the angled fittings, GPU block etc

At this point I'm ready to buy a couple of multi port rads, fill the front rad then the res and finish off by filling the top one, then again knowing my luck it still wont work


----------



## Jakusonfire

My loop is quite similar, with a smallish res lower down and I have zero problems bleeding. It literally takes a few minutes.

What makes you think the system isn't just filled already?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> My loop is quite similar, with a smallish res lower down and I have zero problems bleeding. It literally takes a few minutes.
> 
> What makes you think the system isn't just filled already?


When I pick it up and tip it I can hear water sloshing around in the rads

I dont know why I'm having so many problems with this build, been trying to get it up and running for almost 3 months but I keep having this same problem


----------



## skupples

Have any open caps on your top rad? I always fill up my rads manually before filling my reservoir. I know they're full enough when they fight gravity to start filling the reservoir.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Have any open caps on your top rad? I always fill up my rads manually before filling my reservoir. I know they're full enough when they fight gravity to start filling the reservoir.


No unfortunately, I am thinking of replacing my rads with multi port ones but I still need to find the right ones so I dont have to deal with this crap anymore


----------



## emsj86

Do I connect both 4 pin pwm and molex for the mcp35x or just the. 4 pin fan header to my motherboard. I'm thinking I connect both and have bios set to pwm so it gets powered by the molex and pwm signal from the board. Or am I wrong.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do I connect both 4 pin pwm and molex for the mcp35x or just the. 4 pin fan header to my motherboard. I'm thinking I connect both and have bios set to pwm so it gets powered by the molex and pwm signal from the board. Or am I wrong.


You need to connect both. Then either use the bios or your motherboard fan control software to control the speed of the pump.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> No unfortunately, I am thinking of replacing my rads with multi port ones but I still need to find the right ones so I dont have to deal with this crap anymore


You can always place a tee mate on the top _radiator_ and make a fill line there. You can also place a tube on the top of the reservoir just for filling with a funnel. Just pay attention to the level so it does not overflow or if you start the pump it does not goes dry even with the add volume of the tube+funnel.

italics = edit


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do I connect both 4 pin pwm and molex for the mcp35x or just the. 4 pin fan header to my motherboard. I'm thinking I connect both and have bios set to pwm so it gets powered by the molex and pwm signal from the board. Or am I wrong.


Connect both. If you look you'll only have two wires going to each connector. The tach and PWM signal wires to the 4-pin fan connector that you connect to a PWM fan header (CPU_FAN on most boards) and the 12V and ground going to the molex from the PSU.









lol, ninja'd by lowfat


----------



## emsj86

Thank you. I have it set up as pwm on bios and have it set for 20% low end and 70% high end with. 20 degrees low end and 65 high end. So it should work well it hopefully keep it from not overheating. I do an to buy the heatsink with a 80mm fan. For now I have a 120mm fan right below it blowing on it from my bottom rad. Thank you


----------



## emsj86

Thank you wasn't sure picking up this pump tomorrow until I can get my mcp50x sent out for warrenty after it went up in smoke this Mormon and have me a big scare to say the lease when my room filled with smoke. Idk if I will keep the mcp35x and sell the new mcp50x or the other way around. I kinda like the. 35x due to being able to get pump tops


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can always place a tee mate on the top reservoir and make a fill line there. You can also place a tube on the top of the reservoir just for filling with a funnel. Just pay attention to the level so it does not overflow or if you start the pump it does not goes dry even with the add volume of the tube+funnel.


Already tried the trick of having a fill line higher then the top rad, it didnt work

I could take out the air exhaust thing on my top rad and add a fill like to it but I dont know how it would go unless I used a quick disconnect even then I may not have enough room


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Already tried the trick of having a fill line higher then the top rad, it didnt work
> 
> I could take out the air exhaust thing on my top rad and add a fill like to it but I dont know how it would go unless I used a quick disconnect even then I may not have enough room


I meant top radiator for the tee (see my edit on previous post). no need for QD or anything like it. You can place a tee with extensions (hard or not) and just use a fill cap to close the unused port created by the tee while not been used to fill.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would suggest getting a 24pin connector fitting 2 wires w/male pins and tie them together with a momentary switch. This way your pump can keep wet and you can fill between "bumps". It is the best way really.

~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I meant top radiator for the tee (see my edit on previous post). no need for QD or anything like it. You can place a tee with extensions (hard or not) and just use a fill cap to close the unused port created by the tee while not been used to fill.


Hmm ok maybe I'll try that

If not how are the XSPC multi port rads?

I need / want to buy a new CPU block anyway so if multi port rads make my life easier I'll get them


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would suggest getting a 24pin connector fitting 2 wires w/male pins and tie them together with a momentary switch. This way your pump can keep wet and you can fill between "bumps". It is the best way really.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Agreed. Something like this works rather well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141512487858


----------



## Ceadderman

That is not a momentary switch. You would need a reset type of switch. Holding it closed completes the circuit, letting go breaks the circuit and stops it.

~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hmm ok maybe I'll try that
> 
> If not how are the XSPC multi port rads?
> 
> I need / want to buy a new CPU block anyway so if multi port rads make my life easier I'll get them


would be nice if their damned Rev 3 cam with all those ports.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> would be nice if their damned Rev 3 cam with all those ports.


Yeah I was looking at them but noticed they only had 4 ports not 6


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> except they aren't being undervolted. PWM supplies a constant 12v


For clarification: he said the spec is 20v, so with 12v it's 40% undervolted regardless of PWM

I think the (zoson's) original point was that the poster getting a replacement DDC didn't have to worry about not having a heat sink available locally as the water would keep the unit within operating temps. That the heat sinks are additionally effective at reducing heat I don't think is the point (don't get me wrong - I'd sure have one because cooling is cool and this is OC.NET







). I think the insight he provided is very interesting - revealing 12v being the wrong power source for the components and possibly the root cause to the failures that do create heat beyond spec (those are some scary pictures)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So was talking to a couple of guys from the aussie forums lastnight about my watercooling and he said the reason my loop isnt filling correctly is probably due to this
> Then he said how to fix my current problem
> Do you guys agree?


Not from my own experience. I have a tiny reservoir in the bottom of my case (mounted to the pump) that pumps strait upward into a radiator on the top of the case and bleed the system in ~15 minutes, without pre-filling. Varying the pump speed (including 100% on my dcp 4.0) while tilting the case as far as I can without running the pump dry makes it a quick job for me. Obviously do all you can to avoid suckling air into the pump. Unless the volume of tube to your first rad is greater than the reservoir I don't think your problem is coming from the res size


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Not from my own experience. I have a tiny reservoir in the bottom of my case (mounted to the pump) that pumps strait upward into a radiator on the top of the case and bleed the system in ~15 minutes, without pre-filling. Varying the pump speed (including 100% on my dcp 4.0) while tilting the case as far as I can without running the pump dry makes it a quick job for me. Obviously do all you can to avoid suckling air into the pump. Unless the volume of tube to your first rad is greater than the reservoir I don't think your problem is coming from the res size


Hmm ok, I keep my pump on 3 seeing once its set and in the case theres no way I can get to the dial again (seriously considering a PWM D5 instead)

Heres a crappy pic of my current loop, loop order is Res > Pump > CPU > GPU > 360 > 240 > Res

*This is what seems to happen almost every time I fill this thing since ripping it apart*


It seems to take about 500ml without a problem but any more and the res doesnt drain it stays full taking crap all water out

After its taken that first 500ml in between the CPU & GPU block sometimes I hear it trickle like the waters not even flowing & squeezing the tubes sometimes doesnt result in much pressure build up

Sometimes when I turn the pump on and off the water flows back into the res (dont know which way it flows from) opening the air exhaust on the top rad results in this to but air does come out and eventually water to

The top rad always seems to be empty but the front one _normally_ fills (takes a while tho)

Even leaving it running all night doesnt force it to fill

Tipping and shaking the case doesnt help at all

Then after all that I'm at a standstill (where I am currently) with a half full loop that wont fill anymore
So far I've spent almost 3 months on this thing and in that time I've managed to spend $300 - $800 replacing / buying new parts and havent been able to fill this thing


----------



## aka13

Where do you start the filling from, the reservoir? It's gonna be impossible to fill it from there, since the top rad is way over the reservoir. Can you unscrew the top plug from the rad (afaik xspc rads have connections from all sides, correct me if I am wrong), and fill it from there?

Basically he problem you have is liquid physics, not necessary the loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> except they aren't being undervolted. PWM supplies a constant 12v
> 
> 
> 
> For clarification: he said the spec is 20v, so with 12v it's 40% undervolted regardless of PWM
> 
> I think the (zoson's) original point was that the poster getting a replacement DDC didn't have to worry about not having a heat sink available locally as the water would keep the unit within operating temps. That the heat sinks are additionally effective at reducing heat I don't think is the point (don't get me wrong - I'd sure have one because cooling is cool and this is OC.NET
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I think the insight he provided is very interesting - revealing *12v being the wrong power source for the components and possibly the root cause to the failures that do create heat beyond spec* (those are some scary pictures)
Click to expand...











Just because he said it,it does not automatically become fact.

http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BR-23A.pdf

Please,explain why undervolting even more creates no heat and no problems,while according to the 'scientist' it should melt with heat?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> except they aren't being undervolted. PWM supplies a constant 12v
> 
> 
> 
> *For clarification: he said the spec is 20v, so with 12v it's 40% undervolted regardless of PWM*
> 
> I think the (zoson's) original point was that the poster getting a replacement DDC didn't have to worry about not having a heat sink available locally as the water would keep the unit within operating temps. That the heat sinks are additionally effective at reducing heat I don't think is the point (don't get me wrong - I'd sure have one because cooling is cool and this is OC.NET
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I think the insight he provided is very interesting - revealing 12v being the wrong power source for the components and possibly the root cause to the failures that do create heat beyond spec (those are some scary pictures)
Click to expand...

I'm not sure where that 20v comes from, but I suspect it's not correct (as zoson also seems to have been about everything else he said)

http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/industrial-commercial-pumps/ddc-pump/



- - - -
lol, ninja'd by B Neg


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Where do you start the filling from, the reservoir? It's gonna be impossible to fill it from there, since the top rad is way over the reservoir. Can you unscrew the top plug from the rad (afaik xspc rads have connections from all sides, correct me if I am wrong), and fill it from there?
> 
> Basically he problem you have is liquid physics, not necessary the loop.


Only place I have to fill from is the res, my rads are the AX ones so only 2 ports. I suppose I could maybe set something up on the top rad but it would probably end up as a big mess and not working (dont really wanna cut up my case to make things fit either)

Just a question why with my old loop did it work but this one it hasnt? is it coz I changed the res and added all the angled fittings or something?


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Only place I have to fill from is the res, my rads are the AX ones so only 2 ports. I suppose I could maybe set something up on the top rad but it would probably end up as a big mess and not working (dont really wanna cut up my case to make things fit either)
> 
> Just a question why with my old loop did it work but this one it hasnt? is it coz I changed the res and added all the angled fittings or something?


I think it is because the pressure you had in the old res from the liquid being higher than it can be now in the actual res. Fittings are really not important for that.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I think it is because the pressure you had in the old res from the liquid being higher than it can be now in the actual res. Fittings are really not important for that.


Ah ok

So now if I buy multiport rads how would I go about filling it? fill the whole loop from the rad or fill from the rad and res?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I think it is because the pressure you had in the old res from the liquid being higher than it can be now in the actual res. Fittings are really not important for that.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah ok
> 
> So now if I buy multiport rads how would I go about filling it? fill the whole loop from the rad or fill from the rad and res?
Click to expand...

What I do ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so happy with my self for drilling a hole in the top of the 900D to access one of the ports in the top rad. It's made filling much much easier. Flood the system from there, fill of the res, = perfection!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I did similar to the top of my Enthoo Primo. It definitely made filling things much easier. I just crack the fill port open in my res and the res fills as I fill the loop from the top. I just seal the res fill port back up when the fluid reaches the top of it and continue filling the rest of the loop. It lets me fill up the entire loop in one go.
> 
> I cut holes for both top-facing ports so as to better allow air to escape from one as I filled the other, plus it made a perfect location to screw in an air gauge and a schrader valve so I can leak-test using compressed air before filling the loop. Both of the holes/ports I cut in the top get covered up/hidden when I replace the top fan filter cover over the top fans.
Click to expand...

edit: Just in case that wasn't clear, here's me explaining it another way...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you have an top-mounted rad that has extra ports like many Alphacool's do the top-facing ports on the top rad can be used as fill ports to easily fill up an entire loop. That's what I've been doing on the last couple loops I put together. I keep both top-facing ports on the top rad open, one to use to fill and the other to let air escape, and I'll only crack open the reservoir's fill port to allow air to escape from it also as it fills from the bottom as I fill the loop through the top rad's port. I'll watch the loop fill up and close the reservoir's fill port once the res gets full and then continue filling up the loop until the top rad is full. Doing it this way only takes a few minutes to fill and almost no bleeding. Certainly no cycling of the pump on/off. I'll just start up the pump and let it run, usually for a day or so before I'll need to top off the res from some of the pockets of air it managed to trap.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What I do ...


Thats







I was thinking something like that

Suppose now I need to hunt for some rads, probably end up going those XSPC ones seeing there matte black


----------



## aka13

I still wonder how one would proceed having a top rad with only 2 ports. I mean, the thing you copypasted was obvious, but it is a perfect scenario. How would one proceed in case (no pun intended) one doe s not have the possibility to fill it from top of the rad?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I still wonder how one would proceed having a top rad with only 2 ports. I mean, the thing you copypasted was obvious, but it is a perfect scenario. How would one proceed in case (no pun intended) one doe s not have the possibility to fill it from top of the rad?


Just like normal as described in almost every guide for filling and bleeding. Fill the reservoir, and cycle the pump on until the res drops almost empty then stop it, then repeat until the loop is filled enough that you get a return flow, and then when cycling start tilting the case to get the air out of that top rad and everywhere else to come out. Vertically mounted rads can be just as tricky. It helps to know how the flow moves through the rad and tilt it appropriately - in the right order - to chase the air out of it.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I still wonder how one would proceed having a top rad with only 2 ports. I mean, the thing you copypasted was obvious, but it is a perfect scenario. How would one proceed in case (no pun intended) one doe s not have the possibility to fill it from top of the rad?


Well I tried the standard "tube higher than the top rad" and it still wasnt enough water to push the air out

Could do what someone suggested to me which was add a fitting on my T block on my top rad but it could be tricky if you didnt have the room (like me)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> *Just like normal as described in almost every guide for filling and bleeding. Fill the reservoir, and cycle the pump on until the res drops almost empty, then repeat until you get a return flow, and then when cycling start tilting the case to get the air out of that top rad and everywhere else to come out*. Vertically mounted rads can be just as tricky. It helps to know how the flow moves through the rad and tilt it appropriately - in the right order - to chase the air out of it.


In my case (lol) that didnt work at all, I was still having the half full problem, it would take the 500ml then nothing more (hence why I'm so annoyed with it)


----------



## Jakusonfire

I would maybe invest in some clear tubing just for a test run to see how it goes because it does make it much easier to see where air is being trapped. That loop not filling right is truly mystifying. My main system is nearly identical and I've had it in a variety of configs, some much more elaborate that would seem likely to be harder to fill and yet have never had any problem with it.

I don't suppose its possible that the cpu block has been put back together the wrong way? I can't think of anything to really help, I would love to get my hands on it. I just can't accept that the loop itself is to blame ... its just so ordinary.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> except they aren't being undervolted. PWM supplies a constant 12v
> 
> 
> 
> *For clarification: he said the spec is 20v, so with 12v it's 40% undervolted regardless of PWM*
> 
> I think the (zoson's) original point was that the poster getting a replacement DDC didn't have to worry about not having a heat sink available locally as the water would keep the unit within operating temps. That the heat sinks are additionally effective at reducing heat I don't think is the point (don't get me wrong - I'd sure have one because cooling is cool and this is OC.NET
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I think the insight he provided is very interesting - revealing 12v being the wrong power source for the components and possibly the root cause to the failures that do create heat beyond spec (those are some scary pictures)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm not sure where that 20v comes from, but I suspect it's not correct (as zoson also seems to have been about everything else he said)
> 
> http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/industrial-commercial-pumps/ddc-pump/
> 
> 
> 
> - - - -
> lol, ninja'd by B Neg
Click to expand...

What makes me chuckle is the use of the same PCB in an even lower power format with the 10w and the 10w has no problems at all.

Or the fact that DDC's wont start over 13.5 (ish) volts,put in because over volting kills pumps......

The 20v is correct,however,its from an older PCB,the DDC2 could be used upto 30v...except it was a timebomb of a pump. Not _if_ but _when_......


----------



## aka13

I think I am pretty devastated with the current setup, I never thought of that until today that I do not have an air-out opening in the top rad.
Propably will change the top rad, if after the assmbly it proves too difficult to fill.

Although I have a big reservoir, propably high enough to make decent pressure.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> except they aren't being undervolted. PWM supplies a constant 12v
> 
> 
> 
> For clarification: he said the spec is 20v, so with 12v it's 40% undervolted regardless of PWM
> 
> I think the (zoson's) original point was that the poster getting a replacement DDC didn't have to worry about not having a heat sink available locally as the water would keep the unit within operating temps. That the heat sinks are additionally effective at reducing heat I don't think is the point (don't get me wrong - I'd sure have one because cooling is cool and this is OC.NET
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I think the insight he provided is very interesting - revealing *12v being the wrong power source for the components and possibly the root cause to the failures that do create heat beyond spec* (those are some scary pictures)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just because he said it,it does not automatically become fact.
> 
> http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BR-23A.pdf
> 
> Please,explain why undervolting even more creates no heat and no problems,while according to the 'scientist' it should melt with heat?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> except they aren't being undervolted. PWM supplies a constant 12v
> 
> 
> 
> *For clarification: he said the spec is 20v, so with 12v it's 40% undervolted regardless of PWM*
> 
> I think the (zoson's) original point was that the poster getting a replacement DDC didn't have to worry about not having a heat sink available locally as the water would keep the unit within operating temps. That the heat sinks are additionally effective at reducing heat I don't think is the point (don't get me wrong - I'd sure have one because cooling is cool and this is OC.NET
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I think the insight he provided is very interesting - revealing 12v being the wrong power source for the components and possibly the root cause to the failures that do create heat beyond spec (those are some scary pictures)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm not sure where that 20v comes from, but I suspect it's not correct (as zoson also seems to have been about everything else he said)
> 
> http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/industrial-commercial-pumps/ddc-pump/
> 
> 
> 
> - - - -
> lol, ninja'd by B Neg
Click to expand...

Guys . . . .

What he was talking about in relation to 20V and 12V is undervolting, was with regard to the control of the mosfets, in other words, he's talking about the applied gate voltage.

For the part number he mentioned as being the ones used on the DDC PCBs, the gate voltage limit is nominally 20V. This is the standard value for mosfets not specifically designed to work with logic level (5V) control.

There are 2 basic groups of mosfets, those designed with logic level gate voltage levels which are near maximally on at 5V, and "regular" mosfets that take a bit more voltage to be maximally on.

Maximally on meaning able to carry near max current loads with near minimum RdsON, or internal resistance.

mosfets effectively start out with 0V on the gate as near infinite resistance, and increasing the gate voltage causes the resistance to decrease to only a few milliohms when fully on.

When you look at that curve on the spec sheet, there's a knee in the curve where they start to turn on, (resistance dropping) very rapidly after being almost completely off.

For the logic level mosfets, this happens around 3.5V or so, for the regular mosfets, you see this in the 8V to 10V range.

As long as the pump is getting a real 12V, and not a volt or 2 lower because of bad connections, . . . the 12V level is well into the useful range of gate voltage to effect near maximal turn on.

Saying that 12V on the gate is 40% undervolting is misleading and inaccurate, as the 20V is a max figure, and the curve at 12V just isn't significantly different for our purposes. . . . .

Much below that, and things do change.

I've oversimplified a little, but the concept is all there.

Darlene


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I would maybe invest in some clear tubing just for a test run to see how it goes because it does make it much easier to see where air is being trapped. That loop not filling right is truly mystifying. My main system is nearly identical and I've had it in a variety of configs, some much more elaborate that would seem likely to be harder to fill and yet have never had any problem with it.
> 
> I don't suppose its possible that the cpu block has been put back together the wrong way? I can't think of anything to really help, I would love to get my hands on it. I just can't accept that the loop itself is to blame ... its just so ordinary.


Maybe I might get some clear just to keep for tests

Oh god not the CPU block lol, I've checked and re checked it everytime I rebuild (have derped and stuffed the block before), its together right and the tubes are in the right holes. I think many people would love to have a loop at my rig and see what the hell is actually going on

Theres only 2 things I can really think of atm, 1. the pumps stuffed some how or 2. the CPU block is actually causing the problem, t was damaged kinda bad from algae when I pulled my first loop apart (build log has pics)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> See that's unique. That's what I subbed to this thread for. Pictures of peoples' loops. I like to see stuff that isn't sponsored or the result of a spending contest.
> 
> Personally I would just cut that return tube that's going from the CPU outlet back to the Reservoir, and go
> 
> Res/pump>Rad>(Rad)>CPU>GPU>Res


Simpel enough.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Guys . . . .
> 
> What he was talking about in relation to 20V and 12V is undervolting, was with regard to the control of the mosfets, in other words, he's talking about the applied gate voltage.
> 
> For the part number he mentioned as being the ones used on the DDC PCBs, the gate voltage limit is nominally 20V. This is the standard value for mosfets not specifically designed to work with logic level (5V) control.
> 
> There are 2 basic groups of mosfets, those designed with logic level gate voltage levels which are near maximally on at 5V, and "regular" mosfets that take a bit more voltage to be maximally on.
> 
> Maximally on meaning able to carry near max current loads with near minimum RdsON, or internal resistance.
> 
> mosfets effectively start out with 0V on the gate as near infinite resistance, and increasing the gate voltage causes the resistance to decrease to only a few milliohms when fully on.
> 
> When you look at that curve on the spec sheet, there's a knee in the curve where they start to turn on, (resistance dropping) very rapidly after being almost completely off.
> 
> For the logic level mosfets, this happens around 3.5V or so, for the regular mosfets, you see this in the 8V to 10V range.
> 
> As long as the pump is getting a real 12V, and not a volt or 2 lower because of bad connections, . . . the 12V level is well into the useful range of gate voltage to effect near maximal turn on.
> 
> Saying that 12V on the gate is 40% undervolting is misleading and inaccurate, as the 20V is a max figure, and the curve at 12V just isn't significantly different for our purposes. . . . .
> 
> Much below that, and things do change.
> 
> I've oversimplified a little, but the concept is all there.
> 
> Darlene


This all seems to be getting into the weeds though.

What zoson was trying to argue was that DDCs are cooled by the loop flow (they are not), have no need or benefit from a heatsink (nonsense), don't have issues with failing from getting hot (they most certainly do), then when showed examples that they do argued that they don't get hot unless undervolted (more nonsense), or something along those lines.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Guys . . . .
> 
> What he was talking about in relation to 20V and 12V is undervolting, was with regard to the control of the mosfets, in other words, he's talking about the applied gate voltage.
> 
> For the part number he mentioned as being the ones used on the DDC PCBs, the gate voltage limit is nominally 20V. This is the standard value for mosfets not specifically designed to work with logic level (5V) control.
> 
> There are 2 basic groups of mosfets, those designed with logic level gate voltage levels which are near maximally on at 5V, and "regular" mosfets that take a bit more voltage to be maximally on.
> 
> Maximally on meaning able to carry near max current loads with near minimum RdsON, or internal resistance.
> 
> mosfets effectively start out with 0V on the gate as near infinite resistance, and increasing the gate voltage causes the resistance to decrease to only a few milliohms when fully on.
> 
> When you look at that curve on the spec sheet, there's a knee in the curve where they start to turn on, (resistance dropping) very rapidly after being almost completely off.
> 
> For the logic level mosfets, this happens around 3.5V or so, for the regular mosfets, you see this in the 8V to 10V range.
> 
> As long as the pump is getting a real 12V, and not a volt or 2 lower because of bad connections, . . . the 12V level is well into the useful range of gate voltage to effect near maximal turn on.
> 
> Saying that 12V on the gate is 40% undervolting is misleading and inaccurate, as the 20V is a max figure, and the curve at 12V just isn't significantly different for our purposes. . . . .
> 
> Much below that, and things do change.
> 
> I've oversimplified a little, but the concept is all there.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> This all seems to be getting into the weeds though.
> 
> What zoson was trying to argue was that DDCs are cooled by the loop flow (they are not), have no need or benefit from a heatsink (nonsense), don't have issues with failing from getting hot (they most certainly do), then when showed examples that they do argued that they don't get hot unless undervolted (more nonsense), or something along those lines.
Click to expand...

Undervolting can cause over heating if the voltage is insufficient to fully switch the mosfet on and off. This is why DDC's have a operating range of 8v to 13v-ish.

Also,there has been around 18-20 revisions of the DDC PCB.......


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Guys . . . .
> 
> What he was talking about in relation to 20V and 12V is undervolting, was with regard to the control of the mosfets, in other words, he's talking about the applied gate voltage.
> 
> For the part number he mentioned as being the ones used on the DDC PCBs, the gate voltage limit is nominally 20V. This is the standard value for mosfets not specifically designed to work with logic level (5V) control.
> 
> There are 2 basic groups of mosfets, those designed with logic level gate voltage levels which are near maximally on at 5V, and "regular" mosfets that take a bit more voltage to be maximally on.
> 
> Maximally on meaning able to carry near max current loads with near minimum RdsON, or internal resistance.
> 
> mosfets effectively start out with 0V on the gate as near infinite resistance, and increasing the gate voltage causes the resistance to decrease to only a few milliohms when fully on.
> 
> When you look at that curve on the spec sheet, there's a knee in the curve where they start to turn on, (resistance dropping) very rapidly after being almost completely off.
> 
> For the logic level mosfets, this happens around 3.5V or so, for the regular mosfets, you see this in the 8V to 10V range.
> 
> As long as the pump is getting a real 12V, and not a volt or 2 lower because of bad connections, . . . the 12V level is well into the useful range of gate voltage to effect near maximal turn on.
> 
> Saying that 12V on the gate is 40% undervolting is misleading and inaccurate, as the 20V is a max figure, and the curve at 12V just isn't significantly different for our purposes. . . . .
> 
> Much below that, and things do change.
> 
> I've oversimplified a little, but the concept is all there.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> *This all seems to be getting into the weeds though*.
> 
> What zoson was trying to argue was that DDCs are cooled by the loop flow (they are not), have no need or benefit from a heatsink (nonsense), don't have issues with failing from getting hot (they most certainly do), then when showed examples that they do argued that they don't get hot unless undervolted (more nonsense), or something along those lines.
Click to expand...

I was trying to clarify what he was going on about relative to what he said was undervolting that was being misunderstood . . . .

His claim (among others) is that the design uses mosfets with a 20V max gate voltage and that using 12V to switch the gate is undervolting them and that it's a bad design and is therefor going to have high failure rates.

That's just not cum hoc ergo propter hoc.

As to the no need or benefit from a heatsink, or don't have issues with failing from getting hot . . . . well...

He tends to be wrong about most things he argues about.

Darlene


----------



## aka13

Is this thread a non-stop flamewar, or are there calm periods too?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Undervolting can cause over heating if the voltage is insufficient to fully switch the mosfet on and off. This is why DDC's have a operating range of 8v to 13v-ish.
> 
> Also,there has been around 18-20 revisions of the DDC PCB.......


I don't doubt that at all, but to even let it become any part of this discussion seems to me to just be buying into the load of bull zoson was spewing trying to deflect from his initial claims that DDCs have absolutely no reliability issues with getting hot when run full speed at 12v in a low restriction loop and will not benefit from adding a heatsink. Somehow he looked at Martin's data showing the DDC getting hotter at faster flow rates and twisted into something about undervolting even though Martin was adjusting the flow rates in his test by controlling the amount of restriction placed on the pump.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The specs on those FET's say "absolute maximum" which doesn't seem quite the same as undervolting necessarily ... but I am no electronics expert.
Edit: Errps .. an actual expert already got there.

It would seem important also that martins heat scoping was done with an open pump case. Surely with the standard plastic enclosure the temps would go even higher.
I have though, always felt like the DDC design was fine for a 10W pump but is just not cut out for 20W+ as standard. Gimme that metal pump case of the D5 any day. I don't know why Laing didn't change the DDC to a metal stator housing when they upgraded the DDC from 10W.


----------



## aka13

As it was stated before, the mosfet specs say that 12v is fine, and 20v ist absolute maximum. Besides, even if it was undervolted, it should not make a too big difference temperature-wise.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Been running my 35x2 at full speed for years... On top of some open cell insulation foam to quiet it down. No problems. The act of the water passing through the pump at all cools the entire assembly. These devices in general have a high failure rate. Insufficient cooling has nothing to do with it.


THERE WE GO I don't really care why they fail but they do, a high report rate of failure for what ever reason is enough to not use or recommend them.
further more a cpu will thermal throttle @100°C but I wouldn't recommend running it @ 95°C because it can run at these temps.
A bit like those pumps they run too close to the border of safe temperatures a well known fact.

My MPC 655 has no vibration dampeners and in direct contact with the case and still is quiet

Next subject I WANTA SEE SOME RIG PICS


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The specs on those FET's say "absolute maximum" which doesn't seem quite the same as undervolting necessarily ... but I am no electronics expert.
> Edit: Errps .. an actual expert already got there.
> 
> It would seem important also that martins heat scoping was done with an open pump case. Surely with the standard plastic enclosure the temps would go even higher.
> *I have though, always felt like the DDC design was fine for a 10W pump but is just not cut out for 20W+ as standard. Gimme that metal pump case of the D5 any day.* I don't know why Laing didn't change the DDC to a metal stator housing when they upgraded the DDC from 10W.


All this.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> [*] Sometimes when I turn the pump on and off the water flows back into the res (dont know which way it flows from) opening the air exhaust on the top rad results in this to but air does come out and eventually water to


Hmm, this is one point where our builds differ. Fluid doesn't flow back into my reservoir, allowing me to keep pumping more fluid into the system.

I wonder if this is related to tilting not helping you - it always seems like the best step for me for getting the big air pockets out

Do you have any clear tubing you can use so you can see where the air is?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hmm, this is one point where our builds differ. Fluid doesn't flow back into my reservoir, allowing me to keep pumping more fluid into the system.
> 
> I wonder if this is related to tilting not helping you - it always seems like the best step for me for getting the big air pockets out
> 
> Do you have any clear tubing you can use so you can see where the air is?


Yeah the water running back was a bit weird, it always does it when I use the air exhaust on my rad, sometimes when I dont

Nope dont have clear, I may buy some tho if I cant get it filled

I'm gonna try filling my loop in a few days by taking the air exhaust off my rad and using that port as a fill, pc-illiterate suggested I try that first


----------



## zoson

Look at the specsheet for the Fairchild FET which I provided already. They are 20v FETs not 12v FETs. Yes, the entire problem is that the actual design for the DDC calls for a 20v power source, but they basically soldered a 12v molex on it and called it good.
If you were actually paying attention you would have noticed that these are 30v Voss on the Drain-Source Voltage. I was already accounting for the fact that these have a nominal operating range. 12v is far, far too little.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> How about we discuss that the temperatures measured by Martin are actually *FULLY WITHIN SPEC* for the Fairchild 4532 FET?
> https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/SI/SI4532DY.pdf
> 
> Seriously, I don't know why I even bother with this crap. It's like you all think you know better than an actual electrical engineer who designs circuits like this using these exact same components.
> 
> The *MINIMUM* operating temp of these FETs is supposed to be 55C, and they are within normal operating spec for 150C+...


The entire problem here is that I know so much more about this than you guys that it's going all the way over your heads.

Plastic or metal doesn't matter, heat is still conducted from high to low energy areas. The supplied cooling by having the loop in close proximity is more than enough. A heatsink will NOT prevent a source-drain short temperature overrun.

And really, there are just as many DDC's failing when NOT running full tilt. Pretending that isn't true is just that - pretending. These pumps fail like crazy in general.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Is this thread a non-stop flamewar, or are there calm periods too?


This is How information flows. May it be misinformation or small periods of fact. Take what you can from it and absorb!









The Cautious One


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> And really, there are just as many DDC's failing when NOT running full tilt. Pretending that isn't true is just that - pretending. These pumps fail like crazy in general.


Except they don't.









DDC's are reliable pumps when used properly. Using PWM to slow the pump makes a huge difference in reliability and operation temps.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far my non-PWM 2+ yr old DDC has been running like a champ (MCP355), I know I need to get a heatsink kit and looks like EK's looks the best even though I do love the look of BP's Black sparkle colored heatsink


----------



## wermad

D5 was my choice this time since there's a ton of accessories for it.


----------



## skupples

Juga lugs luga loo has an air bubble obstructing something.


----------



## emsj86

sitting in traffic headed to microcenter to pick up a mcp35x pump. Have my revolver fittings prepped. The bend from the back port on the top rad to the inlet of the cpu block will be the challenge. I hope microcenter had some silver 90 adapters usually they only carry black bitspower ones and the rest that our silver our straight compressions. Any advise on close quarter tight multi 90 bends. It will need a 90 down than 90 to the right to the cpu than 90 into the cpu fitting. Another adapter would take one of those bends out


----------



## emsj86

Is there a certain heatsink that's the best it the Beaty looking for the mcp35x I want to get one but don't want to use the legs on it just he heatsink and maybe a fan on it


----------



## skupples

EK and BP both make quality aluminum housings for the DDC series.

I really like the looks of the BP Magic cube but I haven't taken the time to buy any yet.

Good news though, I won a ton of money from gifted to me lotto tickets so my little Z77 server is going under water


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah the water running back was a bit weird, it always does it when I use the air exhaust on my rad, sometimes when I dont
> 
> Nope dont have clear, I may buy some tho if I cant get it filled
> 
> I'm gonna try filling my loop in a few days by taking the air exhaust off my rad and using that port as a fill, pc-illiterate suggested I try that first


Have you tried setting your d5 to level 5? Also, and please don't get offend it by mentioning mate, but are you absolutely sure all the in and outs ports on pump top an cpu block are on the correct orientation?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hmm ok maybe I'll try that
> 
> If not how are the XSPC multi port rads?
> 
> I need / want to buy a new CPU block anyway so if multi port rads make my life easier I'll get them


xspc rads are a safe bet mate. They are really well made. That would be a very good choice with 6 ports. The rx v3 with 4 ports are great too but lack the flexibility of having 6 ports. But again, you can accomplish the same with a 2 port rad using a tee. In any case it would help us help you if you took a couple of pictures of the loop and go in detail explaining how the loop order is set right now in your loop.


----------



## emsj86

Nice congrats. I won my fantasy league. So got a few thousand. After bills plan on another build or 4 k monitor


----------



## wh0kn0ws

@Aussiejuggalo

Silly question, but do you have a port open to exhaust air when filling your loop?


----------



## electro2u

Oh no... the AussieJuggalo loop saga continues








=(

IIRC he doesn't have a port available for aeration. It is definitely at least part of the problem, imo, assuming I'm correct.

Nvm he has a triple port cap on his reservoir.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

as far as I have read. pumps really only fail
A: Incorrect top installation
B: ran dry
C: some other form of user error.
or just a bad top period


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Oh no... the AussieJuggalo loop saga continues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =(
> 
> IIRC he doesn't have a port available for aeration. It is definitely at least part of the problem, imo, assuming I'm correct.


At this point he needs to take it to his own thread.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Except they don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDC's are reliable pumps when used properly. Using PWM to slow the pump makes a huge difference in reliability and operation temps.


I have the RMA data to back this up. The D5 and the DDC pump variants that we sell have very nearly the same RMA and failure rate. The DDC pumps do fare better though when a heat sink is installed on them and that's just a fact. Our engineer here has also confirmed for me that the DDC receives virtually no cooling from the liquid flowing through the pump and that's why they do better in a case with good airflow. PWM control to reduce their speed also increases their durability.


----------



## soulreaper05

I was wondering where I could get some custom acrylic panels cut for a reservoir and midplate for my new build. I have them all designed in ms paint, I just need to know what file format is preferred, and what is needed on my end to get them cut.

PM me if you'd rather keep this off of this thread.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulreaper05*
> 
> I was wondering where I could get some custom acrylic panels cut for a reservoir and midplate for my new build. I have them all designed in ms paint, I just need to know what file format is preferred, and what is needed on my end to get them cut.
> 
> PM me if you'd rather keep this off of this thread.


dxf or dwg format will be good for formats. as for a place in the US? I have no idea.

sounds interesting though







if you need any help with vector drawings or file formats? give us a shout!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would check w/ people who do custom fish tanks, they tend to work w/ acrylic on a large scale, and yeah Dwg/Dxf are readable in CAD









**Edit** Side note I know it's been said numerous times in this thread, but running nickel blocks (will be mobo and GPU for now) mixed with a copper block I know I can't run distilled w/ a kill coil, are there any issues w/ running the two metals in a single loop and I know I'll be running a Pastel when it's all said and done after the prerequisites to ensure no issues in the pastel colouring (ie proper flushing and checking for a stable/neutral PH prior to running the Pastel)


----------



## snef

some Cables done, like it clean like that


----------



## aka13

What do you use to hold the cables together? After the connector, these transparent thngs?


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> some Cables done, like it clean like that


So clean


----------



## colorblu

i learned a lot from doing this more of what not to do but still a lot of fun.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> What do you use to hold the cables together? After the connector, these transparent thngs?


Lutro0 stealth combs.


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some Cables done, like it clean like that


Is it me or is the res to ram a little titled? It doesn't look leveled from the pictures and it's making my ocd go full throttle.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Maybe I might get some clear just to keep for tests
> 
> Oh god not the CPU block lol, I've checked and re checked it everytime I rebuild (have derped and stuffed the block before), its together right and the tubes are in the right holes. I think many people would love to have a loop at my rig and see what the hell is actually going on
> 
> Theres only 2 things I can really think of atm, 1. the pumps stuffed some how or 2. the CPU block is actually causing the problem, t was damaged kinda bad from algae when I pulled my first loop apart (build log has pics)


My two tools to fill a loop an air pump will not air look and is handy to suck out the air at filling stage I also have used it to drain loops, you don't even have to power the loop pump.

The filling bottle is 1Lt so can continuously fill and is handy to also suck out excess coolant, They come with a nozzle you will have to cut it off and throw it out as it is well useless.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Is it me or is the res to ram a little titled? It doesn't look leveled from the pictures and it's making my ocd go full throttle.


f you look any horizontal line on top and bottom, you will see no one are straight

maybe I forgot to apply lens correction and I think its more this because if I take measurement on both side of the tube, they are the same

I will wait to see with coolant, it will be more visible and if not correct will fix it


----------



## Nichismo

Finally got a better camera now that Christmas is over









Still learning it a bit though, however ive finally got some better pics of the rig....


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was going to say it's straight, just angle of the shot and the lens, looks good nice & clean


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Finally got a better camera now that Christmas is over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still learning it a bit though, however ive finally got some better pics of the rig....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


some added indirect light would enable you to get a clearer shot







recommend becoming friends w/ manual mode (if you got an DSLR)


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> some added indirect light would enable you to get a clearer shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> recommend becoming friends w/ manual mode (if you got an DSLR)


in the meantime, should I just shine some light on it? I had the exposure turned down, and my blinds opened for some sunlight, but the acrylic blocks on the motherboard kept getting a ton of glare, along with the EK badges


----------



## lowfat

If you are using natural light you don't want direct sunlight. You should take pics on cloudy days.


----------



## wermad

Curious if C48s are easier to work with vs C47s?

@snef & nachismo, beautiful builds lads


----------



## Nichismo

Gotcha, thanks guys.

c48s are the small ones right? They are really, really easy to work with. I wouldnt recommend them with longer stretches of tubing though, but obviously they are awesome for tight spaces. c47s can be somewhat tough to get broken in, there were plenty of times which I didnt realize until far too late that my tubing wasn't 100% inserted into the fitting, despite my best efforts.

I really like the multi link fittings, but c47s for the most part look cleanest.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Finally got a better camera now that Christmas is over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still learning it a bit though, however ive finally got some better pics of the rig....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried setting your d5 to level 5? Also, and please don't get offend it by mentioning mate, but are you absolutely sure all the in and outs ports on pump top an cpu block are on the correct orientation?
> xspc rads are a safe bet mate. They are really well made. That would be a very good choice with 6 ports. The rx v3 with 4 ports are great too but lack the flexibility of having 6 ports. But again, you can accomplish the same with a 2 port rad using a tee. In any case it would help us help you if you took a couple of pictures of the loop and go in detail explaining how the loop order is set right now in your loop.


No I havent tried it on 5, I might try it on 4 tho or work out a way to be able to change the speed once its in

I'll check the block again today to make 100% sure

Cool, I might end up buying them if I cant get it filled this time
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> @Aussiejuggalo
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Silly question, but do you have a port open to exhaust air when filling your loop?


Yeah I got an open port in my res as well as an air exhaust thing (its manual tho)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh no... the AussieJuggalo loop saga continues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =(
> 
> IIRC he doesn't have a port available for aeration. It is definitely at least part of the problem, imo, assuming I'm correct.
> 
> Nvm he has a triple port cap on his reservoir.


I know







its beyond the point of stupid now

Yup I made sure I have a port for air and I have an air exhaust fitting to so I dont have to unscrew a plug
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> At this point he needs to take it to his own thread.


If I cant get it filled in the next few days I probably will, only reason I asked in here was to save time making a new thread seeing normally my posts only get 2 or 3 answers and its normally something little and stupid, I didnt think it was gonna be this much of a problem but it seems like it has everyone confused lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My two tools to fill a loop an air pump will not air look and is handy to suck out the air at filling stage I also have used it to drain loops, you don't even have to power the loop pump.
> 
> The filling bottle is 1Lt so can continuously fill and is handy to also suck out excess coolant, They come with a nozzle you will have to cut it off and throw it out as it is well useless.


Thats interesting, I might try something like that

*This is my plan for the moment to try and get this damn thing working*


Pull it apart and check the CPU block to make sure its put together right and the tubes are in the right way
Check everything to make sure theres no blockage
Put it back together with the pump on 4 or 5 and see if theres a way I can dial down the pump speed once its back in the case (if not I'll leave it on 4)
Fill the res and pump the water through as normal then when it stops pumping water lay it on its front and fill from the T block on the top rad
If that doesnt work then try something what feznz suggested with a bottle

*If it still doesnt fill after all that*

Then I'll call it a day, save the $500ish AUD I need and buy the XSPC multi port rads both 360 & 240 (gotta have matching







), new EK Supremacy EVO block (the copper & acetal one) & try again


----------



## emsj86

My first bends. Not perfect did them free hand after getting it's frustrated with the mandrels. Gives me a whole new look on the time and skill it takes for these amazing builds I see on here. Didn't realize how much sanding down you have to do to get that perfect fit. I'm regretting not buying more adapters to make it so I didn't have to make a lot of bends on a single run


----------



## emsj86

Outside of a drain mini valve I use the large plunger they sell at microcenter and attach vinyal clear hose from homedepot. Works great and allows to get those little areas that do t drain perfect


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> in the meantime, should I just shine some light on it? I had the exposure turned down, and my blinds opened for some sunlight, but the acrylic blocks on the motherboard kept getting a ton of glare, along with the EK badges


what was you f-stop set at?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> In the same argument you could say the liquid is moving too fast over the bloc to absorb heat
> which in turn would say too much air velocity through a radiator wouldn't give enough time to absorb heat from the radiator
> I believe without digging through a lot of data as long as you are above 1GPM any tangible benefits as I recall don't quote me on this was above 10GPM
> I think almost always I have some Speck 8000 pumps
> after this test I ran the pump for 1 hour the heat this pump dropped into the bucket started at 15°C after an hour the water was 35°C I am seriously considering this 80w pump is a tad too much for what I have planned for it as it does =80w of extra heat in the loop and I am not convinced that that all that heat came from the pump
> I have no proof on this but I am theorising that the friction between water and micro fins may have generated additional heat.


That's what I pointed inedenimadam to, but he said that it doesn't matter just go as fast as possible, but what I thought (which I believe is wrong now) is that it doesn't matter how fast the water moves it will still cool the same, anything below 0.8GPM will yield slightly hotter thermals but you won't see much difference above 1GPM.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> what was you f-stop set at?


Lol im sorry but im not sure what that infers to.


----------



## Ceadderman

Anyone know what the largest max dimension for a complete O-ring for Acrylic?

I've got most of my tray figured out with the exception of a double inverted "L" that I'd like to run to keep my runs clean of extra Rigid tubing. The "L" will be approximately 15" from the bottom Left corner, up and around the top to the upper right hand corner. The other one will be next to it in similar layout. I know someone posted something about an unconnected O-ring, but I really would rather have complete rings to keep things simple.

So far I've got most everything laid out except for the back of the tray and the water channels.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Can someone help me? Distilled water is not readily available here in the UK I would have to special order it and it's way more exspensive here compared to the USA you guys pay a few bucks where it would cost me on average for 5 litres of pure distilled water £20+ but I can pick up De-iondised water for much much less at £3 for 5L but I keep reading conflicting information. Some say it's ok but has no advantages over Distilled this for example Then I've read posts from users here saying it will corrode my system?


----------



## wermad

Most pharmacies carry distilled water. Your local larger chain grocery should as well.


----------



## szeged

just distill your own lol

http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Distilled-Water


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Most pharmacies carry distilled water. Your local larger chain grocery should as well.


No... They don't lol I've tried I really have







Someone mentioned something about water collected from a tumble drier is distilled but I wrote that off as utter rubbish?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> just distill your own lol
> 
> http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Distilled-Water


Lol no!


----------



## emsj86

leak testing. Finished my bends. I'm pretty happy with my first time. I'm ad I bought 2 four packs bc now I have 6 lengths left over out of the 8 for the future


----------



## Benjiw

Found some from a Tattoo website, 5 litres for £4.50 delivered!


----------



## lowfat

[quote
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> leak testing. Finished my bends. I'm pretty happy with my first time. I'm ad I bought 2 four packs bc now I have 6 lengths left over out of the 8 for the future


Looks good so far.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Found some from a Tattoo website, 5 litres for £4.50 delivered!


that's close enough to what we pay in the states. The Grocer around the corner wants $.99c for a gallon, and it comes out to ~5-7PH. PH isn't a huge issue unless you'er trying to run Mayhem's high end products. I prefer just running X1 Clear.

speaking of which, i'm growing tired of floppy tubing evap. Might be time for an Acrylic overhaul.

1/8th of an inch in 2 weeks, since getting the loop back up and running post Alphacool leak & derp induced EK blow out.


----------



## emsj86

Thank you. The build is inside a enthoo pro and I can say and correct me if in wrong what 89 dollar case has everything this case has. I do plan to get a different case like case labs down the road but for now having a 2 year old this does the trick and some


----------



## skupples

Enthoo looks like a fun case to build in, tbh.

It's not THAT great from scratch, but seems to mod well.

been thinking about picking one up for my server rebuild. It's currently in a Corsair 500R, but will be moving to a Coolermaster Storm Trooper. (scraps)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Found some from a Tattoo website, 5 litres for £4.50 delivered!


cool









Pharmacies tend to run out quickly as the old folks tend to grab them quickly early in the mornings. My local walmart has gallon jugs for $0.82 (~3.78L, ~£0.53). Kinda of strange your large chain stores don't have but good you found some in the end







.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can someone help me? Distilled water is not readily available here in the UK I would have to special order it and it's way more exspensive here compared to the USA you guys pay a few bucks where it would cost me on average for 5 litres of pure distilled water £20+ but I can pick up De-iondised water for much much less at £3 for 5L but I keep reading conflicting information. Some say it's ok but has no advantages over Distilled this for example Then *I've read posts from users here saying it will corrode my system?*


That last part is nonsense. There is *zero* difference between distilled and deionized/demineralized or even a quality RO water (home RO units don't always cut it), as far as use in a watercooling loop goes. Distilled is not widely available in most of the world besides the US, for example in the UK & EU, middle east, & Oz, where distilled is rare/expensive and they tend to use deionized instead. Just use whatever is prevalent and affordable wherever you live.


----------



## X-Nine

Deonized is fine, but I wonder why Distilled is such a novelty.... I mean, do you people not go camping? Hell, it's 99 cents for a gallon of it at King Soopers here.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Deonized is fine, but I wonder why Distilled is such a novelty.... I mean, do you people not go camping? Hell, it's 99 cents for a gallon of it at King Soopers here.


It's everywhere and cheap in the US, but in most of the rest of the world distilled has never been readily used/available, not even in most cases for laboratory / medical use. They use deionized instead in most of the same ways we would use distilled. As far as watercooling goes in makes no difference whatsoever.


----------



## szeged

down south here we have a lot of distilleries hidden out in the woods, but i dont think theyre using them for water...they usually work under a full moon though...i guess it really makes it "shine" or something.


----------



## skupples




----------



## wermad

Funs in the everglades...









on-topic: any one grease/lube the o-rings on fittings, more specific, plugs? As a precaution, i really torqued down my plugs as i had some leaks previously. I was worried i would damage the o-rings.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> on-topic: any one grease/lube the o-rings on fittings, more specific, plugs? As a precaution, i really torqued down my plugs as i had some leaks previously. I was worried i would damage the o-rings.


Nope. I just dab mine with water. After a visual inspection.

If i have to look carefully, i just replaced the O-ring and dab it with distilled water.


----------



## skupples

Everglades fun = air boats and coolers full of beer. It's essentially suicide to try & camp out in the TRUE everglades.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hi me again









*RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!!!!*

Just tried / did everything I listed in my previous post and NOTHING worked or helped in the slightest



Spoiler: Previous plan



This is my plan for the moment to try and get this damn thing working

Pull it apart and check the CPU block to make sure its put together right and the tubes are in the right way
Check everything to make sure theres no blockage
Put it back together with the pump on 4 or 5 and see if theres a way I can dial down the pump speed once its back in the case (if not I'll leave it on 4)
Fill the res and pump the water through as normal then when it stops pumping water lay it on its front and fill from the T block on the top rad
If that doesnt work then try something what feznz suggested with a bottle



Checked the block, its together right and the tubes are in the right places, used a longer hose that went 10cm above the top rad, filled from the top rad till it pretty much overflowed from the T block, set the pump on 5 but still nada

I seriously dont get this, it should be filling and pumping right









So I guess I'm buying new rads and crap, maybe even a new PWM D5 pump to



Spoiler: Build as of right now



Less potato pic





Unless you guys can see something I screwed up on?


----------



## aka13

It's liquid physics man. You still have a air pocket in the top rad, what do ya expect? you need a valve in the top of the rad to get rid of the air. I assume you could drill a hole, solder a tiny pipe on it, and afterwards cover it.

Btw, anyone here drilled/soldered the rads? Alphacools are full copper, so I assume that would not be a too big problem?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> IIt's liquid physics man. You still have a air pocket in the top rad, what do ya expect? you need a valve in the top of the rad to get rid of the air. I assume you could drill a hole, solder a tiny pipe on it, and afterwards cover it.


I drained the whole thing and filled from the top rad, it still didnt fill or pump right

Suppose I could but I think I'm just gonna go and buy new rads, this is beyond stupid now







I thought a 40cm tube into the res full of water would force the air out like my last res but I guess it still wasnt enough water


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can someone help me? Distilled water is not readily available here in the UK I would have to special order it and it's way more exspensive here compared to the USA you guys pay a few bucks where it would cost me on average for 5 litres of pure distilled water £20+ but I can pick up De-iondised water for much much less at £3 for 5L but I keep reading conflicting information. Some say it's ok but has no advantages over Distilled this for example Then I've read posts from users here saying it will corrode my system?


Lol.

I use DI exclusively. Nothing wrong with it at all


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> on-topic: any one grease/lube the o-rings on fittings, more specific, plugs? As a precaution, i really torqued down my plugs as i had some leaks previously. I was worried i would damage the o-rings.


I now smear a very tiny bit of silicone o-ring grease on every o-ring before installing. The only time I've ever had a leak was when an o-ring didn't seat correctly when tightening and got a bit twisted so on closer inspection part of the o-ring was visible more so than the rest right where it was leaking. When I posted about the issue in these forums I don't recall who it was who suggested I use silicone grease on my o-rings to help prevent that from happening (I want to say it was B Neg, but not sure now) but I chalk the tip up as a good one. Since using silicone grease nothing like that has happened.

Silicon o-ring grease not only helps lubricate o-rings so they tighten up evenly, it also is supposed to help form a better leak-free seal and preserves them (hence why divers use it), plus it's also food-grade safe so any trace amounts getting into the loop are not a concern. I bought a tiny little tub for ~$4 and after having since used it on at least a hundred fitting & pump o-rings I've barely dented it. I also use a bit of it on my bending cords for acrylic, especially for Primochill tubing which is notorious for having enough of an I.D. variance that the cord sometimes seems like it won't fit or tries to become stuck, but since using a tiny bit of grease on the cord it hasn't been an issue at all, and it's a lot better option than using olive oil on the cord which is what Primochill suggests using. lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> It's liquid physics man. You still have a air pocket in the top rad, what do ya expect? you need a valve in the top of the rad to get rid of the air. I assume you could drill a hole, solder a tiny pipe on it, and afterwards cover it.
> 
> Btw, anyone here drilled/soldered the rads? Alphacools are full copper, so I assume that would not be a too big problem?


I'm almost positive the threading on Alphacool is even copper, after dealing with this leak I had.

I sanded down all around the leaky port, but it all looked Identical, and the threads weren't harder than the tank, which leads me to believe that even the threads are copper.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> on-topic: any one grease/lube the o-rings on fittings, more specific, plugs? As a precaution, i really torqued down my plugs as i had some leaks previously. I was worried i would damage the o-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> I now smear a very tiny bit of silicone o-ring grease on every o-ring before installing. The only time I've ever had a leak was when an o-ring didn't seat correctly when tightening and got a bit twisted so on closer inspection part of the o-ring was visible more so than the rest right where it was leaking. When I posted about the issue in these forums I don't recall who it was who suggested I use silicone grease on my o-rings to help prevent that from happening (I want to say it was B Neg, but not sure now) but I chalk the tip up as a good one. Since using silicone grease nothing like that has happened.
> 
> Silicon o-ring grease not only helps lubricate o-rings so they tighten up evenly, it also is supposed to help form a better leak-free seal and preserves them (hence why divers use it), plus it's also food-grade safe so any trace amounts getting into the loop are not a concern. I bought a tiny little tub for ~$4 and after having since used it on at least a hundred fitting & pump o-rings I've barely dented it. I also use a bit of it on my bending cords for acrylic, especially for Primochill tubing which is notorious for having enough of an I.D. variance that the cord sometimes seems like it won't fit or tries to become stuck, but since using a tiny bit of grease on the cord it hasn't been an issue at all, and it's a lot better option than using olive oil on the cord which is what Primochill suggests using. lol
Click to expand...

I use silicone grease on all o-rings,its a requirement if you start stripping GPU blocks as it holds those houdini o-rings in place.


----------



## szeged

i managed to get a ek classy 780 block o ring back into place without any help from anything other than my hands.

it was worse than being in hell.

never again.

ever.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i managed to get a ek classy 780 block o ring back into place without any help from anything other than my hands.
> 
> it was worse than being in hell.
> 
> never again.
> 
> ever.


GPU blocks are......challenging.....when it comes to o-rings,I had a Watercool block that resisted every attempt to put a new oring in,the oring wasnt 'formed' to the groove at all.

I resorted to threats against its parents and loved ones at one point..


----------



## szeged

i had a similar experience with threats...and throwing...and smashing...and more smashing...luckily i wasnt smashing the block, just everything else i could find.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm almost positive the threading on Alphacool is even copper, after dealing with this leak I had.
> 
> I sanded down all around the leaky port, but it all looked Identical, and the threads weren't harder than the tank, which leads me to believe that even the threads are copper.


The threads on Alphacool rads are brass.

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p975_Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Full-Copper-360mm.html
Quote:


> Technical specifications:
> Material internal: Mostly copper
> Material casing: Side panels steel, *threads brass*, copper chambers


You can see the difference in their cutaway pics also:


----------



## szeged

god did they cut it open with a butter knife?

glad to see the rads are just as terrible looking inside as they are on the outside.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can someone help me? Distilled water is not readily available here in the UK I would have to special order it and it's way more exspensive here compared to the USA you guys pay a few bucks where it would cost me on average for 5 litres of pure distilled water £20+ but I can pick up De-iondised water for much much less at £3 for 5L but I keep reading conflicting information. Some say it's ok but has no advantages over Distilled this for example Then I've read posts from users here saying it will corrode my system?


If you can get your hands on deionized (DI) water, that's what I would get. DI water will be a more pure (less contaminites) than distilled or RO water. In order for water to be processed through a DI system it has been processed through an RO train before hand, basically means it's been processed even further. This is coming from a person that operates an RO and DI system on a daily basis in an oil refinery.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> If you can get your hands on deionized (DI) water, that's what I would get. DI water will be a more pure (less contaminites) than distilled or RO water. In order for water to be run through a DI system it has been run through an RO train before hand, basically means it's been processed even further. This is coming from a person that runs an RO and DI system on a daily basis in an oil refinery.


There are different methods for making deionized water, and it tends not to be as pure as distilled. Distilled water is supposed to be pure water, but it is possible that foreign bodies present that have a similar boiling point to water can manage to make it though the distillation process, but that's also why water sold as 'distilled' also goes though pre- and post water filtration.

The purity of deionized water can meet or exceed the purity of distilled water, but it doesn't always. Standards and definitions of what is 'deionized' varies from one country to another and there are several different methods for achieving deionization. 'Deionization' refers to the removal of mineral ions but not necessarily non-ionic contaminants like organic molecules (bacteria or viruses) or soap, for that matter.

All of this discussion is neither here nor there for the purposes of watercooling though. Any commercially produced distilled or deionized/demineralized water is going to be fine for watercooling with none having any advantage whatsoever. Buy whatever is cheapest and prevalent wherever you live.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> god did they cut it open with a butter knife?
> 
> glad to see the rads are just as terrible looking inside as they are on the outside.


Did you get your ass kicked by a former alphacool employee? Why the nonstop 24/7 hate with exactly 0 reason and 0 argumentation? That looks like a normal picture of a normal radiator. Instead of throwing 500$ on making this picture rezer-shop-tier they show it without edit to provide you with real idea behind it. Looks absolutely good for a radiator. Good soldering, good wall thickness, ok threads, what the hell is your problem?


----------



## midnytwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hi me again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!!!!*
> 
> Just tried / did everything I listed in my previous post and NOTHING worked or helped in the slightest
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Previous plan
> 
> 
> 
> This is my plan for the moment to try and get this damn thing working
> 
> Pull it apart and check the CPU block to make sure its put together right and the tubes are in the right way
> Check everything to make sure theres no blockage
> Put it back together with the pump on 4 or 5 and see if theres a way I can dial down the pump speed once its back in the case (if not I'll leave it on 4)
> Fill the res and pump the water through as normal then when it stops pumping water lay it on its front and fill from the T block on the top rad
> If that doesnt work then try something what feznz suggested with a bottle
> 
> 
> 
> Checked the block, its together right and the tubes are in the right places, used a longer hose that went 10cm above the top rad, filled from the top rad till it pretty much overflowed from the T block, set the pump on 5 but still nada
> 
> I seriously dont get this, it should be filling and pumping right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess I'm buying new rads and crap, maybe even a new PWM D5 pump to
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Build as of right now
> 
> 
> 
> Less potato pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you guys can see something I screwed up on?


Hi!
Have you tried filling it from the line connected from the vertical rad to res?

If you haven't, then you could try disconnecting it from the res (disconnect the one on the res), swivel it up, make it higher than the top rad and fill water from the tube of the vertical rad.

Try giving it some shake or tilt your case from time to time to remove the air. It is also possible that you might notice water filling up your res (I cannot guarantee it but is possible).

If the water in the tube of the vertical rad stops going down, try blowing onto it gently if the water would be forced to move. And if still the water didn't go down into the res, but the water from the vertical rad tube is not moving anymore, connect the tube back onto the res and if there is no water then fill it up also. But first you have to put a fitting into the original fillport of your res and connect a tube (if you have some spare) with the length higher than the vertical rad, however you have to make sure that the water inside the res is not totally full.

Then now you can try and see once you start the pump if the water would circulate.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There are different methods for making deionized water, and it tends not to be as pure as distilled. Distilled water is supposed to be pure water, but it is possible that foreign bodies present that have a similar boiling point to water can manage to make it though the distillation process, but that's also why water sold as 'distilled' also goes though pre- and post water filtration.
> 
> The purity of deionized water can meet or exceed the purity of distilled water, but it doesn't always. Standards and definitions of what is 'deionized' varies from one country to another and there are several different methods for achieving deionization. 'Deionization' refers to the removal of mineral ions but not necessarily non-ionic contaminants like organic molecules (bacteria or viruses) or soap, for that matter.
> 
> All of this discussion is neither here nor there for the purposes of watercooling though. Any commercially produced distilled or deionized/demineralized water is going to be fine for watercooling with none having any advantage whatsoever. Buy whatever is cheapest and prevalent wherever you live.


Please forgive me for that I have been out googled.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hi me again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!!!!*
> 
> Just tried / did everything I listed in my previous post and NOTHING worked or helped in the slightest
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Previous plan
> 
> 
> 
> This is my plan for the moment to try and get this damn thing working
> 
> Pull it apart and check the CPU block to make sure its put together right and the tubes are in the right way
> Check everything to make sure theres no blockage
> Put it back together with the pump on 4 or 5 and see if theres a way I can dial down the pump speed once its back in the case (if not I'll leave it on 4)
> Fill the res and pump the water through as normal then when it stops pumping water lay it on its front and fill from the T block on the top rad
> If that doesnt work then try something what feznz suggested with a bottle
> 
> 
> 
> Checked the block, its together right and the tubes are in the right places, used a longer hose that went 10cm above the top rad, filled from the top rad till it pretty much overflowed from the T block, set the pump on 5 but still nada
> 
> I seriously dont get this, it should be filling and pumping right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess I'm buying new rads and crap, maybe even a new PWM D5 pump to
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Build as of right now
> 
> 
> 
> Less potato pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you guys can see something I screwed up on?


In/Out on the pump top are in the wrong place,the out is the offset one.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnytwarrior*
> 
> Hi!
> Have you tried filling it from the line connected from the vertical rad to res?
> 
> If you haven't, then you could try disconnecting it from the res (disconnect the one on the res), swivel it up, make it higher than the top rad and fill water from the tube of the vertical rad.
> 
> Try giving it some shake or tilt your case from time to time to remove the air. It is also possible that you might notice water filling up your res (I cannot guarantee it but is possible).
> 
> If the water in the tube of the vertical rad stops going down, try blowing onto it gently if the water would be forced to move. And if still the water didn't go down into the res, but the water from the vertical rad tube is not moving anymore, connect the tube back onto the res and if there is no water then fill it up also. But first you have to put a fitting into the original fillport of your res and connect a tube (if you have some spare) with the length higher than the vertical rad, however you have to make sure that the water inside the res is not totally full.
> 
> Then now you can try and see once you start the pump if the water would circulate.


Hmm thanks I'll try that later and see if it helps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In/Out on the pump top are in the wrong place,the out is the offset one.


Nah its not in the wrong place, just looks like it from the pic. I did double check to just in case


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In/Out on the pump top are in the wrong place,the out is the offset one.


mmm, I think he has the outlet correct, can see a plug in the center one no ??
and on the outlet he has a t fitted with a tap on one port, and line to cpu on the other.

edit







'd
aussiej - have you tried filling with the case front facia down, so the top res ports are facing up.
If your t is still on the rear port, then filling like that should bleed all the air out as you fill.
Worth a shot at this stage right


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> mmm, I think he has the outlet correct, can see a plug in the center one no ??
> and on the outlet he has a t fitted with a tap on one port, and line to cpu on the other.
> 
> edit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'd
> aussiej - have you tried filling with the case front facia down, so the top res ports are facing up.
> If your t is still on the rear port, then filling like that should bleed all the air out as you fill.
> Worth a shot at this stage right


Yep tried that, still nothing

I dunno unless my rads are crapped up or something?









At this point I'm at a loss as to why its not working I'm pretty much ready to replace my whole loop

Edit, also I _think_ the loop is mostly full, just sounds like not much waters going through to the top rad


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In/Out on the pump top are in the wrong place,the out is the offset one.
> 
> 
> 
> mmm, I think he has the outlet correct, can see a plug in the center one no ??
> and on the outlet he has a t fitted with a tap on one port, and line to cpu on the other.
> 
> edit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'd
> aussiej - have you tried filling with the case front facia down, so the top res ports are facing up.
> If your t is still on the rear port, then filling like that should bleed all the air out as you fill.
> Worth a shot at this stage right
Click to expand...

If that is a BP D5 top then that is not right.

Use the offset one,not the center as this pic shows....


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If that is a BP D5 top then that is not right.
> 
> Use the offset one,not the center as this pic shows....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Its just an optical illusion because of the fittings used. There is a 3 way connector behind that tap and the outlet feeds out the side.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Just to clarify for everyone it is in the right hole lol



One of the first things I thought was that it was in the wrong port


----------



## emsj86

Bleed overnight but noticed this. If I tilt it back alittle that area fills up no problem but upright it stays with that gap now it doesn't seem to be an air pocket. Is this normal or will it cause a problem if so anyone know how to solve this issue


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Just to clarify for everyone it is in the right hole lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first things I thought was that it was in the wrong port


At this point, you really need to determine if you're airbound or physically blocked.

When you first started this saga, I urged you to put a bleed T in the exit line of the 240 rad.

But I digress, you need to take the line from the 240 rad to the res off at the rad end, and put a piece of scrap tube on at that point and have an empty container for it to discharge into.

Now fill the res and bump the pump, if the res empties and needs refilling, hold a thumb/finger over the tube from the 240 rad so it doesn't suck air back in while you refill the res with the other hand.

If you can get just so much liquid into the system, but it never comes out the tube and the res level stops going down when you run the pump, you could try sucking on the tube to see if it helps, but you probably have a physical blockage, fitting with too long a thread or something somewhere.

Good luck,

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@Aussiejuggalo

Try removing the end cap on the mini valve and hold a rag over the end > Have the fill port on your res open > Start the pump > Slightly crack open the valve until you have flow coming out of it into the rag and then close it.

Also, you don't appear to have an internal inlet tube in your res which if that is correct means with a top inlet you can't use the res to effectively bleed your loop. Instead of the reservoir being able to trap air in the top of it when you stop the pump it's letting the air go right out the top back up into the vertically mounted rad. That also places a lot of extra restriction on the pump since now it's not receiving any of the benefit of the downflow to equalize flow, so the pump is having to pump through the blocks and vertically up to the top rad and then it's essentially a waterfall back down to it. Is that a Bitspower res? Doesn't it come with the internal aqua pipe or whatever they call it?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> At this point, you really need to determine if you're airbound or physically blocked.
> 
> When you first started this saga, I urged you to put a bleed T in the exit line of the 240 rad.
> 
> But I digress, you need to take the line from the 240 rad to the res off at the rad end, and put a piece of scrap tube on at that point and have an empty container for it to discharge into.
> 
> Now fill the res and bump the pump, if the res empties and needs refilling, hold a thumb/finger over the tube from the 240 rad so it doesn't suck air back in while you refill the res with the other hand.
> 
> If you can get just so much liquid into the system, but it never comes out the tube and the res level stops going down when you run the pump, you could try sucking on the tube to see if it helps, but you probably have a physical blockage, fitting with too long a thread or something somewhere.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Darlene


I could always move the T off the 360







, I put it on the 360 instead of the 240 because I thought if I held it down while the pump was running and the valve was at the mid way point it would force the air out there and let the water flow through easier, guess I was wrong









I'll try the scrap tube tomorrow, the only place I can really think of it being blocked by a barb is the GPU block but I've checked and rechecked (bye bye EK warranty lol), the barbs and plugs clear without a problem

Unless it is my rads but when I checked them 3 weeks ago they were pretty clear, maybe some of the nickel off my CPU block has flaked off and blocked them now

I've got a really dumb question, do GPU blocks have specific ins and outs? I'm checking the manual (couldnt find a paper version in with my block







) for my block and it looks like I have the fittings mixed up... If all of this has been because of some mixed up GPU fittings I'm gonna be pissed








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @Aussiejuggalo
> 
> Try removing the end cap on the mini valve and hold a rag over the end > Have the fill port on your res open > Start the pump > Slightly crack open the valve until you have flow coming out of it into the rag and then close it.
> 
> Also, you don't appear to have an internal inlet tube in your res which if that is correct means with a top inlet you can't use the res to effectively bleed your loop. Instead of the reservoir being able to trap air in the top of it when you stop the pump it's letting the air go right out the top back up into the vertically mounted rad. That also places a lot of extra restriction on the pump since now it's not receiving any of the benefit of the downflow to equalize flow, so the pump is having to pump through the blocks and vertically up to the top rad and then it's essentially a waterfall back down to it. Is that a Bitspower res? Doesn't it come with the internal aqua pipe or whatever they call it?


Tried that, still nothing

I do have an internal tube (someone said it was the cause of my problems but without it still didnt help)

My res setup is completely custom, I had to mix and match from 3 different "kits" to get it the way I wanted lol

I also had to put an anti cyclone fitting in the res, I was getting full res cyclones :\ so my flow is slightly restricted


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> At this point, you really need to determine if you're airbound or physically blocked.
> 
> When you first started this saga, I urged you to put a bleed T in the exit line of the 240 rad.
> 
> But I digress, you need to take the line from the 240 rad to the res off at the rad end, and put a piece of scrap tube on at that point and have an empty container for it to discharge into.
> 
> Now fill the res and bump the pump, if the res empties and needs refilling, hold a thumb/finger over the tube from the 240 rad so it doesn't suck air back in while you refill the res with the other hand.
> 
> If you can get just so much liquid into the system, but it never comes out the tube and the res level stops going down when you run the pump, you could try sucking on the tube to see if it helps, but you probably have a physical blockage, fitting with too long a thread or something somewhere.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I could always move the T off the 360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I put it on the 360 instead of the 240 because I thought if I held it down while the pump was running and the valve was at the mid way point it would force the air out there and let the water flow through easier, guess I was wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try the scrap tube tomorrow, the only place I can really think of it being blocked by a barb is the GPU block but I've checked and rechecked (bye bye EK warranty lol), the barbs and plugs clear without a problem
> 
> Unless it is my rads but when I checked them 3 weeks ago they were pretty clear, maybe some of the nickel off my CPU block has flaked off and blocked them now
> 
> *I've got a really dumb question, do GPU blocks have specific ins and outs?* I'm checking the manual (couldnt find a paper version in with my block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) for my block and it looks like I have the fittings mixed up... If all of this has been because of some mixed up GPU fittings I'm gonna be pissed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @Aussiejuggalo
> 
> Try removing the end cap on the mini valve and hold a rag over the end > Have the fill port on your res open > Start the pump > Slightly crack open the valve until you have flow coming out of it into the rag and then close it.
> 
> Also, you don't appear to have an internal inlet tube in your res which if that is correct means with a top inlet you can't use the res to effectively bleed your loop. Instead of the reservoir being able to trap air in the top of it when you stop the pump it's letting the air go right out the top back up into the vertically mounted rad. That also places a lot of extra restriction on the pump since now it's not receiving any of the benefit of the downflow to equalize flow, so the pump is having to pump through the blocks and vertically up to the top rad and then it's essentially a waterfall back down to it. Is that a Bitspower res? Doesn't it come with the internal aqua pipe or whatever they call it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Tried that, still nothing
> 
> I do have an internal tube (someone said it was the cause of my problems but without it still didnt help)
> 
> My res setup is completely custom, I had to mix and match from 3 different "kits" to get it the way I wanted lol
Click to expand...

GPU blocks are pretty much like kinky girlfriends, . . . . they go both ways

CPU blocks are more prudish and only like to go one way.

But you do need to check how thick the threaded area is, and how long the threads on the barbs are for both. It's easy to have a thread on the fitting so long it goes all the way thru to the back of the hole, and while it doesn't leak, it can't flow any liquid either.

I'd probably start from square 1, and get some cheap tubing to use for testing, and disconnect all the blocks.

Put a bit of cheap tube on the outlet of the CPU block, let it empty into a bucket while the pump is connected to the inlet and see if you get a good solid stream until the res nearly empties.

If it does, then use the cheap tube and run the pump to the GPU block, and the other side of the GPU block to the bucket, don't forget, refill the res, Still getting a good solid stream thru the gpu block,


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> GPU blocks are pretty much like kinky girlfriends, . . . . they go both ways
> 
> But you do need to check how thick the threaded area is, and how long the threads on the barbs are. It's easy to have a thread on the fitting so long it goes all the way thru to the back of the hole, and while it doesn't leak, it can't flow any liquid either.


Hahah oh really









Yeah I checked that a few days ago, undid the Torx screws on that top part and made 100% sure it they clear and they all did, had about 1mm each one

Should I try changing the ports there in or would that just be a waste of time?


----------



## VSG

lol

The newer EK GPU blocks have a directed flow so a specific set of ports will ensure the water hits the core first, spreads out in both ways and then goes to the VRAM/VRMs. So I'd saw that is one case where following the recommended ports might come in handy,


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I do have an internal tube (someone said it was the cause of my problems but without it still didnt help)


Hmmm, I guess it just wasn't there when you took that "_Build as of right now_" pic? Or am I just not seeing it for some reason?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol
> 
> The newer EK GPU blocks have a directed flow so a specific set of ports will ensure the water hits the core first, spreads out in both ways and then goes to the VRAM/VRMs. So I'd saw that is one case where following the recommended ports might come in handy,


Hmm I suppose tomorrow I'll try swapping ports and see if that does anything

Anyone wanna bet thats been the problem all along?















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, I guess it just wasn't there when you took that pic? Or am I just not seeing it for some reason?


It is in there, its just a black one so really hard to see with the smoked res and the black of my case


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> god did they cut it open with a butter knife?
> 
> glad to see the rads are just as terrible looking inside as they are on the outside.


Lol









I think Alphacool radiators is so ugly, I have two Monsta's myself, but darn they are ugly ... and the "logo" with white font and copper background ...







probably going to use them a little more too, but I guess it will experience what my previous EK-XTX 240 had to go through before going on the scrap ... Alphacool Monsta 480s + Tygon R3603 equals heavy cleaning or new blocks, reservoir, fittings and so on. I also got "tricked" by the cheap price-tag on a few 45 degree Alphacool fittings about a year back ... worst money I have ever spent, leaking at first-time usage, and crocky as heck ... I mean, the "AC"-emblem disappeared after touching it with my fingers.









Never going to waste more money on Alphacool-products. I have more funny stories about Phobya and Koolance, not recommended by me.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, I guess it just wasn't there when you took that pic? Or am I just not seeing it for some reason?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is in there, its just a black one so really hard to see with the smoked res and the black of my case
Click to expand...

There is an inlet tube in the port that the return hose is connected to in that pic? Sorry then, maybe it's just an illusion. It's just it looks like I can see the fluid in the res and what looks like all the way through the res to the case itself, at least under than inlet tube. There's no chance the internal tube is in the fill port instead where it's not doing any good?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is an inlet tube in the port that the return hose is connected to in that pic? Sorry then, maybe it's just an illusion. It's just it looks like I can see the fluid in the res and what looks like all the way through the res to the case itself, at least under than inlet tube. There's no chance the internal tube is in the fill port instead where it's not doing any good?


Yeah there is a tube in the inlet



I actually had to check and make sure


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well ok then, lol, That really was an illusion.

I'm out of ideas unless Darlene is correct and it is the fittings going into the GPUs being too long. If that's the case the fix might be as easy as adding some 3mm EK-Spacers.


----------



## aka13

Mate, did you try just plugging the pump and reservoir off everything, put two pipes into a bucket, and see if the pump actually work?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well ok then, lol, That really was an illusion.
> 
> I'm out of ideas unless Darlene is correct and it is the fittings going into the GPUs being too long. If that's the case the fix might be as easy as adding some 3mm EK-Spacers.


Yeah it was hard to see lol

I'll check again and switch the ports on the block to, to what is says in the manual
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Mate, did you try just plugging the pump and reservoir off everything, put two pipes into a bucket, and see if the pump actually work?


3 weeks ago I did, I'll check it again tomorrow when I drain and fiddle with it

How many hours are these D5s ment to last? my one would of been running on level 3 at least 16 hours a day for just over a year


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Mate, did you try just plugging the pump and reservoir off everything, put two pipes into a bucket, and see if the pump actually work?


I agree with this. At this point, you need to tear down the entire loop and figure out what the issue is.


----------



## aka13

It's not about hours, you may have overtightened screws/let an oring slip into it/managed to jam it and now try everything but checking the pump itself. Even if you had a huge air bubble, it would still more or less work, even with the smallest pump.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well ok then, lol, That really was an illusion.
> 
> I'm out of ideas unless Darlene is correct and it is the fittings going into the GPUs being too long. If that's the case the fix might be as easy as adding some 3mm EK-Spacers.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it was hard to see lol
> 
> I'll check again and switch the ports on the block to, to what is says in the manual
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Mate, did you try just plugging the pump and reservoir off everything, put two pipes into a bucket, and see if the pump actually work?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 3 weeks ago I did, I'll check it again tomorrow when I drain and fiddle with it
> 
> How many hours are these D5s ment to last? my one would of been running on level 3 at least 16 hours a day for just over a year
Click to expand...

Make a thread please.


----------



## agung79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah there is a tube in the inlet
> 
> 
> 
> I actually had to check and make sure


I have some problem using very small ress... Air bubbles came back to the loop and become big air pocket in to top rad... You can hear there ara some air sound on pump... Till it really silent then no air bubbles came back to the pump.

So i think that pipe in side res just make the air bubbles goes to pump again without have change to escape to air in the reservoir...

And even i using 2D5 pump and make earthquake still need more than a day that the air pocket disappear.... And add destilasi water again to res the water in res become more less when all air pockets gone...


----------



## emsj86

What would you recommend mcp35x or 50x I have both. I like that 35x has pump tops but 50x doesn't need a heatsink what are your thoughts?


----------



## mus1mus

Can anyone give me hints on the real world differences between a HWLabs Black Ice GTX and the Nemesis GTX?

The Nemesis would be around $40 more.

I'll be using 2 480s, 2 360s (XSPC and Phobya), 2 D5s. CPU & MOBO blocks,and at least 2 GPU blocks.

Fans would be them loud Deltas. So Noise wont be too much of a concern. But undervolting to 5V will be an option.

Should I pick the cheaper old GTX or go for a less restrictive (fluid and air pressure) Nemesis?


----------



## VSG

If noise isn't a concern then the higher FPI Gen 2 Extreme should perform better at high fan speeds. I am not sure what the exact fan you want to use is, and also how much airflow it can push at 5v.


----------



## fast_fate

The GTX will probably start outperforming the Nemesis GTX at fan speeds above 1850 rpm.
It is (the GTX) targeted at high speed fan users.
While the Nemesis is a real piece of magic, performing extremely well across all fan speeds (tested 750 rpm up to 1850 rpm p/p)
So if considering under-volting fans when not gaming/benching then the Nemesis are probably the option








But as VSG hinted at, 5 volt fan probably ain't going to be moving much air for any rad, definitely not the GTX, the Nemesis GTX, maybe


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Can anyone give me hints on the real world differences between a HWLabs Black Ice GTX and the Nemesis GTX?
> 
> The Nemesis would be around $40 more.
> 
> I'll be using 2 480s, 2 360s (XSPC and Phobya), 2 D5s. CPU & MOBO blocks,and at least 2 GPU blocks.
> 
> Fans would be them loud Deltas. So Noise wont be too much of a concern. But undervolting to 5V will be an option.
> 
> Should I pick the cheaper old GTX or go for a less restrictive (fluid and air pressure) Nemesis?


Saw VSG's Review on the Side

Might Help.









The Cautious One


----------



## Alex132

Should I be worried about the proximity of my 690 to my res?

It does heat up my CPU by ~8-11'c when I have my GPU and CPU running full tilt.


----------



## BradleyW

I have my res almost touching my 290X CF. Never experienced an issue with temps or otherwise.


----------



## aka13

The res should be from plexiglas, so I doubt you can get much heat tranfer even when under constant warmth.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What would you recommend mcp35x or 50x I have both. I like that 35x has pump tops but 50x doesn't need a heatsink what are your thoughts?


50x is very noisy from what ppl say. I was tempted to get one, but didn't want to deal w/ the noise issue. You'll have more options w/ the DDC as far as accessories and the heatsink kit is not too expensive. The Ek one is ~$25 and was straightforward to install.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Should I be worried about the proximity of my 690 to my res?
> 
> It does heat up my CPU by ~8-11'c when I have my GPU and CPU running full tilt.


Its a dual gpu card, and although its the nice titan style cooler, do expect some heat to be produced. Under water plus the added temps by the gpu's, it shouldn't tax your temps to anything serious. The best solution is to go water on the gpu(s) if possible or arrange better airflow to the gpu inside your case. The heat shouldn't affect your reservoir at all, so no fears of melting as it won't get that hot tbh (gpu will shutoff first).


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 50x is very noisy from what ppl say. I was tempted to get one, but didn't want to deal w/ the noise issue. You'll have more options w/ the DDC as far as accessories and the heatsink kit is not too expensive. The Ek one is ~$25 and was straightforward to install.


At full speed, yeah. But it gets quiet really quickly while the performance hit isn't as fast. Sweet spot around 60-70% for me personally.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> At full speed, yeah. But it gets quiet really quickly while the performance hit isn't as fast. Sweet spot around 60-70% for me personally.


Curious on how you reduced the voltage? Controller?


----------



## Eagle1911

I think XSPC v3's are not worth the extra money you pay for. Because the ones I have aren't so perfectly finished. One of my RX480 v3 came with a dent on the side which makes the use of fittings not straight (few millimeters bend). Two rads had minor bends on the back-sides (not functional but still a disappointment). And oh my God, what a horrible painting job. Seriously why did I pay 30 euro extra for each piece? Because it has some newer fins which improves performance by 5%?


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Curious on how you reduced the voltage? Controller?


It has a standart 4pin pwm control. You can use any sort of pwm controller for that, from soldering your own to buying one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Nearly there now


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1911*
> 
> I think XSPC v3's are not worth the extra money you pay for. Because the ones I have aren't so perfectly finished. One of my RX480 v3 came with a dent on the side which makes the use of fittings not straight (few millimeters bend). Two rads had minor bends on the back-sides (not functional but still a disappointment). And oh my God, what a horrible painting job. Seriously why did I pay 30 euro extra for each piece? Because it has some newer fins which improves performance by 5%?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Rma time?

They're not known for their paints fit and finish. I did have some early RS and the v2 RX and paint could easily chip. Even the old GTX rads from HL chipped so I ended spraying those. It seems to happen with many rads (ek and alphacool as well, but not as bad).

The only time i had to contact xspc support, they got back to me quickly and got the issue resolved right away.

I do like their chrome finished plugs (though a bit bluish compared a "sparkle" BP finish).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> It has a standart 4pin pwm control. You can use any sort of pwm controller for that, from soldering your own to buying one.


ah, didn't know it has pwm circuitry built in.


----------



## littlesackninja

I just finished installing my EK Block, i got (at stock speeds with Skynet Bios on 780 Ti SC ACX) 20c Idle, and 36c Full load, which i think is a pretty good temperature on a single 45mm thick 360mm radiator, (Alphacool XT45) shared with my hot Haswell CPU.


----------



## Meisseli

Sorry guys for being away for a few months but now I'm back and bringing you some photos of my build. I know that the psu cables are fugly and stand out too much for everything else but just ignore that ok?









What you think?

Meisseli
Ps. My fingers are getting very itchy for a new build, but trying to resist the temptation for now..







and sorry for the pic quality, taken with iPhone 6 plus and flash...

(Edit. Grammar and outfit)


----------



## aka13

Holy, where did you get the idea for that liquid color?









Otherwise, looks not bad, pretty good even.


----------



## emsj86

Well I had the mcp50x for a few months until the wires burned up (just a freak thing) and it wasn't loud unless at. 100. But I just set bios to 20-70 percent and the pwm signal works well it didn't just go from low to max. I was more wanting to know if the 35x will give me better performance or not (temps? , gpm?) I believe people just don't know about the 50x and since the 35 x always worked well are not wanting to change it up


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry guys for being away for a few months but now I'm back and bringing you some photos of my build. I know that the psu cables are fugly and stand out too much for everything else but just ignore that ok?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you think?
> 
> Meisseli
> Ps. My fingers are getting very itchy for a new build, but trying to resist the temptation for now..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and sorry for the pic quality, taken with iPhone 6 plus and flash...
> 
> (Edit. Grammar and outfit)


Was it meant to be that color? Did you add anything to the system before-hand? Because my gf had a very similar problem of Mayhems dye turning a much darker shade in her loop than in the premix.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *littlesackninja*
> 
> I just finished installing my EK Block, i got (at stock speeds with Skynet Bios on 780 Ti SC ACX) 20c Idle, and 36c Full load, which i think is a pretty good temperature on a single 45mm thick 360mm radiator, (Alphacool XT45) shared with my hot Haswell CPU.


16'c delta seems very unlikely... considering I have a very similar setup (if not a better rad too).


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Holy **** (yes it is a pun), where did you get the idea for that liquid color?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, looks not bad, pretty good even.


Me?








At start it was clear red, but after a couple of months it got pretty cloudy... I know it's way past changing the coolant on the loop, but I haven't done it because if I do, I'm giving in to the temptation and will also start checking out new cases and stuff.

And then it's the same over again (s**t load of €€€ and time). And that I can't afford.( studying and working at the same time, and not having a s**tload of money.)

Meisseli


----------



## Alex132

Any chance you could test the pH of the coolant in your loop?


----------



## aka13

Oh well, I can understand your situation, I have a very similar one. But yeah, this loops "tasty" color is pretty destructive to the overall image of your build.


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Any chance you could test the pH of the coolant in your loop?


I suppose I could do that, but I know I have to tear it all apart and clean everything thoroughly before doing anything bigger like changing fluids....

Meisseli


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry guys for being away for a few months but now I'm back and bringing you some photos of my build. I know that the psu cables are fugly and stand out too much for everything else but just ignore that ok?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you think?
> 
> Meisseli
> Ps. My fingers are getting very itchy for a new build, but trying to resist the temptation for now..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and sorry for the pic quality, taken with iPhone 6 plus and flash...
> 
> (Edit. Grammar and outfit)


Looks practical to me is an optical illusion but I cannot tell the direction of coolant flow but it does appear the CPU block could be plumbed in the wrong direction of coolant flow.
is it that Toyota factory antifreeze you using?

BTW I went though a 3 day saga with my wife with reasons to buy a Note 4 over a IPhone 6 plus your photo dose illustrate the point of poor camera quality, luckily I had 6 odd sales people recommend the note 4 over the iPhone 6


----------



## DarthBaggins

more than likely it's a pH issue and using PrimoChill's dyed coolants might be another issue in itself


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Any chance you could test the pH of the coolant in your loop?
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose I could do that, but I know I have to tear it all apart and clean everything thoroughly before doing anything bigger like changing fluids....
> 
> Meisseli
Click to expand...

Maybe try use a syringe to decant some into a jar, and use one of those pH paper tester on that.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> BTW I went though a 3 day saga with my wife with reasons to buy a Note 4 over a IPhone 6 plus your photo dose illustrate the point of poor camera quality, luckily I had 6 odd sales people recommend the note 4 over the iPhone 6


Just never recomend an HTC One heh...


Spoiler: Without flash









Spoiler: With flash


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'll stick w/ my Nokia 925


----------



## X-Nine

My HTC One M8s camera works very well, and it's also the best phone currently on the market. Maybe your camera needs some sweet talkin.... Or just replaced


----------



## aka13

I have 5 devices in the company I am working in, dualsim and simple m8s, all of them have good cams.
SUre, no compariso to my 1020 lumia, but yours definately looks like a broken cam.


----------



## Tunz

Red or black fittings on the CPU? I'll be using pastel white coolant, and the two middle ram modules will be white.


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Looks practical to me is an optical illusion but I cannot tell the direction of coolant flow but it does appear the CPU block could be plumbed in the wrong direction of coolant flow.
> is it that Toyota factory antifreeze you using?
> 
> BTW I went though a 3 day saga with my wife with reasons to buy a Note 4 over a IPhone 6 plus your photo dose illustrate the point of poor camera quality, luckily I had 6 odd sales people recommend the note 4 over the iPhone 6


I know I have plumbed the cpu block correctly, inlet is the long hose coming from front rad... Or that is like I remember it, not sure anymore..








But let's forget the color of my fluid and talk about the visuals of the loop, would you do something differently?

Ps. If someone knows a good chassis for my setup, which is pretty decently priced, give me a heads up. Something clean, cool and great looking with enough rad space for this or more... Nzxt's h440 looks good but there is something that puts me off...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Red or black fittings on the CPU? I'll be using pastel white coolant, and the two middle ram modules will be white.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I vote Black.

THe Cautious ONe


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I vote Black.
> 
> THe Cautious ONe


I vote red. The blacks do not have enough contrast for my taste.


----------



## lowfat

IMO fittings should always be black.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> I suppose I could do that, but I know I have to tear it all apart and clean everything thoroughly before doing anything bigger like changing fluids....
> 
> Meisseli


I think it looks pretty sweet! My kid and I were eating chips and salsa when I pulled up your photo... he asked me if your coolant was salsa. I had to chuckle.


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nearly there now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Sexy Picture!!


I like!! Put me down for two!! One in Lime Green and the other in Fluorescent Orange!!


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The threads on Alphacool rads are brass.
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p975_Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Full-Copper-360mm.html
> You can see the difference in their cutaway pics also:






then its some obscenely soft brass.


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I think it looks pretty sweet! My kid and I were eating chips and salsa when I pulled up your photo... he asked me if your coolant was salsa. I had to chuckle.


well that is just the way it is for now and i know it's F'''ed up, but like i said lets but the coolant color mystery (or not) aside, and lets talk about the build its self.

what would have you done differently?

Meisseli


----------



## Nichismo

Definately go with black. Very few components in my opinion call for color outside of the grey spectrum.... to me, the inside of the PC is equivalent to the inside of a cars engine bay. Flashy colors and patterns are for the outside. Any aesthetic design or essence should be subtle and only to amplify the hardware/components themselves, or engineering and technical details. often I see white, or red or green just absolutrly flooded through a build, it looks terrible and so tacky, like someone didnt plan and got carried away. You would never see a plain car open up its hood to a ridiculously vibrant and overly saturated engine....

I absolutely cherish Bitspower black sparkle, they are practically universal aesthetic wise, I cant imagine ever feeling even remotely obliged to buy some of red or white fittings, even moreso that they cost more too.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> well that is just the way it is for now and i know it's F'''ed up, but like i said lets but the coolant color mystery (or not) aside, and lets talk about the build its self.
> 
> what would have you done differently?
> 
> Meisseli


Honestly? I wouldn't have been able to come up with the tricks you did... It's neat how there's so much of the tubing loop that is hidden away. And the way the parallel GPU array is done is cool, too. I didn't realize you could do it like that. I guess like someone above said I can't tell which direction the flow is but I probably would have gone out of my way to make the tubing runs as short as possible, and I also can't tell how much tubing there is behind the motherboard, or wherever it went lol


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Honestly? I wouldn't have been able to come up with the tricks you did... It's neat how there's so much of the tubing loop that is hidden away. And the way the parallel GPU array is done is cool, too. I didn't realize you could do it like that. I guess like someone above said I can't tell which direction the flow is but I probably would have gone out of my way to make the tubing runs as short as possible, and I also can't tell how much tubing there is behind the motherboard, or wherever it went lol


Thanks!

my goal was to make it as clean as possible and didn't want much of the tubing running around and messing the looks...

from the bottom of the res tubes go behind the front rad where the pump is located (BTW fits like glove in there, just a bit of foam to keep it from resonating.), then up to the res, from there to cpu as you can see and from the top rad the tube goes behind the mobo tray and back into the reservoir.

but still i think there is something missing from it, and something is making it feel not so clean after all...

Meisseli


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> well that is just the way it is for now and i know it's F'''ed up, but like i said lets but the coolant color mystery (or not) aside, and lets talk about the build its self.
> 
> what would have you done differently?
> 
> Meisseli


I wounder about the effectivity of your graphiccard loop. I am pretty sure due to backpressure on the forst card your second one gets way less waterflow. You should integrate a backflow valve and make a splitter before the cards in that case.

tl;dr the loop on your cards is not effective, seems rathercounterproductive.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> my goal was to make it as clean as possible and didn't want much of the tubing running around and messing the looks...
> 
> from the bottom of the res tubes go behind the front rad where the pump is located (BTW fits like glove in there, just a bit of foam to keep it from resonating.), then up to the res, from there to cpu as you can see and from the top rad the tube goes behind the mobo tray and back into the reservoir.
> 
> but still i think there is something missing from it, and something is making it feel not so clean after all...
> 
> Meisseli


Maybe a Modular PSU?

THe Cautious One


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> My HTC One M8s camera works very well, and it's also the best phone currently on the market. Maybe your camera needs some sweet talkin.... Or just replaced


I have an HTC One M7 pre-production model and tons of faults in it.


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Maybe a Modular PSU?
> 
> THe Cautious One


been thinking about going full modular with better sleeved wires, its been on my mind all the time but haven't jumped on that yet... maybe now would be the time, could sell my old psu to my pal who just blew his own..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I wounder about the effectivity of your graphiccard loop. I am pretty sure due to backpressure on the forst card your second one gets way less waterflow. You should integrate a backflow valve and make a splitter before the cards in that case.
> 
> tl;dr the loop on your cards is not effective, seems rathercounterproductive.


the loop works fine for the graphics cards, temps stay low for both of the cards and haven't seen much of a difference in the temps between the two cards. i thought of that when i first configured my loop that the temps could be a problem but after few runs of stress tests and battlefield 4, i was pleased with the results...









Meisseli


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> been thinking about going full modular with better sleeved wires, its been on my mind all the time but haven't jumped on that yet... maybe now would be the time, could sell my old psu to my pal who just blew his own..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> the loop works fine for the graphics cards, temps stay low for both of the cards and haven't seen much of a difference in the temps between the two cards. i thought of that when i first configured my loop that the temps could be a problem but after few runs of stress tests and battlefield 4, i was pleased with the results...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meisseli
Click to expand...

I think a Fully Modular would spice your life up a little bit for Sure and as Im sure you've figured out, it becomes very hard to say a build is "Complete"









I have an Idea from a picture I witness recently here on OCN. Instead of using an Ek bridge or whatnot, Most run a serial or Paralell loop for multiple GPUS. I would like to always use a CQC Orginal Full waterblock for the 980s in my Upcoming build. *BUT* What I am going to use are these (Supplied with the Waterblock) and have just 2x 90 Degree fittings going from the top to the bottom Card (So 4 x 90 Degree Fittings Total) in which it could been see as an outward Paralell to the cards



THE Cautious One.

PS: If I find the Picture that I am referencing, I will give credit to them.


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think a Fully Modular would spice your life up a little bit for Sure and as Im sure you've figured out, it becomes very hard to say a build is "Complete"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Idea from a picture I witness recently here on OCN. Instead of using an Ek bridge or whatnot, Most run a serial or Paralell loop for multiple GPUS. I would like to always use a CQC Orginal Full waterblock for the 980s in my Upcoming build. *BUT* What I am going to use are these (Supplied with the Waterblock) and have just 2x 90 Degree fittings going from the top to the bottom Card (So 4 x 90 Degree Fittings Total) in which it could been see as an outward Paralell to the cards
> 
> 
> 
> THE Cautious One.
> 
> PS: If I find the Picture that I am referencing, I will give credit to them.


yeah i'm thinking that i will never get to say that this build is finished, or if i can say it it will be when i change the case and everything else and make a new build, then this will be "finished".

but i will look up those fully modular psu's and try to scrape enough money so i can get one.







any recommendations? something 850W or above.

and if you find that pic you are referring to, post it here so i can also see what you are talking about..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> [/CENTER]I'll stick w/ my Nokia 925


Note 2 craptastic pic taking skills here


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> well that is just the way it is for now and i know it's [messed] up, but like i said lets but the coolant color mystery (or not) aside, and lets talk about the build its self.
> 
> what would have you done differently?
> 
> Meisseli
> 
> 
> 
> I wounder about the effectivity of your graphiccard loop. I am pretty sure due to backpressure on the forst card your second one gets way less waterflow. You should integrate a backflow valve and make a splitter before the cards in that case.
> 
> tl;dr the loop on your cards is not effective, seems rathercounterproductive.
Click to expand...

There's nothing wrong with having 2 GPU blocks in parallel the way Meisseli has it. The flow is split pretty evenly between the two GPUs. Pretty standard fare tbh.

*edit:*
Any of these configs is fine for routing 2 GPUs. Serial flow sends 100% of the flow to both blocks and parallel flow splits the flow between them. Serial adds two blocks of restriction to the loop and parallel adds closer to the restriction of just one. Neither configuration has been shown to have any major temp advantage over the other.



As to Meisseli's question, I think I'd have probably have had the fittings to the GPUs switched, so that the tube coming down from the top rad went to the left side fitting and the right side fitting to the CPU so the route is cleaner / shorter and the tubes don't cross each other, but that may just be the angle the pic was taken from. Otherwise looks pretty good to me for a loop filled with True Blood.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> but i will look up those fully modular psu's and try to scrape enough money so i can get one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any recommendations? something 850W or above.


The EVGA G2 1000 goes on sale periodically for <$150, and has a 10 year warranty. Its 140 after rebate at the egg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438010

Another good one that ends up $130 after MIR is the seasonic x1050 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151110&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=6146846&SID=tie1e4i710lz


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> yeah i'm thinking that i will never get to say that this build is finished, or if i can say it it will be when i change the case and everything else and make a new build, then this will be "finished".
> 
> but i will look up those fully modular psu's and try to scrape enough money so i can get one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any recommendations? something 850W or above.
> 
> and if you find that pic you are referring to, post it here so i can also see what you are talking about..


The Closest of What I am referring to. But It would be two lines of Parallel. So them side my side going from the card to the floor. Both lines.



Actually It might be these that I Need

The Cautious One


----------



## emsj86

finished any thoughts or ideas? Always looming to update/upgrade. I want to go 4k next set of Gpus


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If noise isn't a concern then the higher FPI Gen 2 Extreme should perform better at high fan speeds. I am not sure what the exact fan you want to use is, and also how much airflow it can push at 5v.


Delta AFBs 3500 and EFBs 3300 rpms. Will be doing Push-Pull. They spin around 1500 at 5V.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The GTX will probably start outperforming the Nemesis GTX at fan speeds above 1850 rpm.
> It is (the GTX) targeted at high speed fan users.
> While the Nemesis is a real piece of magic, performing extremely well across all fan speeds (tested 750 rpm up to 1850 rpm p/p)
> So if considering under-volting fans when not gaming/benching then the Nemesis are probably the option
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as VSG hinted at, 5 volt fan probably ain't going to be moving much air for any rad, definitely not the GTX, the Nemesis GTX, maybe


Over 1850 rpm would be my target then.









$80 seems too hard hard to justify since it will really be focused on performance.

Thanks guys.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that's close enough to what we pay in the states. The Grocer around the corner wants $.99c for a gallon, and it comes out to ~5-7PH. PH isn't a huge issue unless you'er trying to run Mayhem's high end products. I prefer just running X1 Clear.
> 
> speaking of which, i'm growing tired of floppy tubing evap. Might be time for an Acrylic overhaul.
> 
> 1/8th of an inch in 2 weeks, since getting the loop back up and running post Alphacool leak & derp induced EK blow out.


Hardline is the future!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pharmacies tend to run out quickly as the old folks tend to grab them quickly early in the mornings. My local walmart has gallon jugs for $0.82 (~3.78L, ~£0.53). Kinda of strange your large chain stores don't have but good you found some in the end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Seems here in the UK its made to order? I wonder why you have it so readily available in the US?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That last part is nonsense. There is *zero* difference between distilled and deionized/demineralized or even a quality RO water (home RO units don't always cut it), as far as use in a watercooling loop goes. Distilled is not widely available in most of the world besides the US, for example in the UK & EU, middle east, & Oz, where distilled is rare/expensive and they tend to use deionized instead. Just use whatever is prevalent and affordable wherever you live.


Sorry Unicr0n but there is a difference, they are produced differently and react differently, you can't drink DI water for example, from what I found de iondized water will break things down to collect ions back or what have you. While it's ok to use in a loop with no ill effect at first, over time it will start to get a bit funky.


----------



## emsj86

So I'm looking into getting a clear Pump. I like the bitspower and ek is there any big difference in performance between the two. Bitspower would save me the hassle of having to sand it shine like I would with the ek


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That last part is nonsense. There is *zero* difference between distilled and deionized/demineralized or even a quality RO water (home RO units don't always cut it), as far as use in a watercooling loop goes. Distilled is not widely available in most of the world besides the US, for example in the UK & EU, middle east, & Oz, where distilled is rare/expensive and they tend to use deionized instead. Just use whatever is prevalent and affordable wherever you live.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Unicr0n but there is a difference, they are produced differently and react differently, you can't drink DI water for example, *from what I found de iondized water will break things down to collect ions back or what have you. While it's ok to use in a loop with no ill effect at first, over time it will start to get a bit funky*.
Click to expand...

Pure. Ridiculous. Laughable. Nonsense.

ALL purified water will collect ions. There is no difference whatsoever between using Distilled or Deionized (aka demineralised) water in a loop. That's why purified water is essentially nonconductive but starts becoming highly conductive the instant it becomes exposed to open air or poured into a loop. Just like people who pay extra for extra-pure water are throwing away money for nothing. The end result is the same. Anyone who says different doesn't know what they are talking about. Period.

How many people here in this forum do you think have never used anything but deionized water in their loops? B Negative alone wasn't good enough for you? Really?


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hardline is the future!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems here in the UK its made to order? I wonder why you have it so readily available in the US?
> Sorry Unicr0n but there is a difference, they are produced differently and react differently, you can't drink DI water for example, from what I found de iondized water will break things down to collect ions back or what have you. While it's ok to use in a loop with no ill effect at first, over time it will start to get a bit funky.






I would probably take it to stupid levels via using copper lines, but I won't be doing anything like that until the next major upgrade, which isn't until Pascal 2.0.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I wounder about the effectivity of your graphiccard loop. I am pretty sure due to backpressure on the forst card your second one gets way less waterflow. You should integrate a backflow valve and make a splitter before the cards in that case.
> 
> tl;dr the loop on your cards is not effective, seems rathercounterproductive.


Does this video help? It helped me understand it better.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Pure. Ridiculous. Laughable. Nonsense.
> 
> ALL purified water will collect ions. There is no difference whatsoever between using Distilled or Deionized (aka demineralised) water in a loop. That's why purified water is essentially nonconductive but starts becoming highly conductive the instant it becomes exposed to open air or poured into a loop. Just like people who pay extra for extra-pure water are throwing away money for nothing. The end result is the same. Anyone who says different doesn't know what they are talking about. Period.
> 
> How many people here in this forum do you think have never used anything but deionized water in their loops? B Negative alone wasn't good enough for you? Really?


Care to show me some reading material to back this up? I'm a noob help me out here.









EDIT:
Went back through and read the ones I missed and ok I'll use DI instead, but c'mon... I know you guys find it laughable when a new guy like me comes in and asks a question out of pure confusion but you could be nicer about it? Chill out, I was confused I wasn't born with the knowledge pre installed like you or B Negative I'm just reading what I can find through research and all though it isn't full applicable to our hobby I thought it was relevant information, obviously not I guess...

EDIT 2:
Re wrote what I said because the insults where not needed which I apologise for, sorry.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Make a thread please.


Was doing it lastnight when my pc screwed up lol

*Heres* the thread for my watercooling problems seeing it doesnt seem like its going to be a quick fix


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Care to show me some reading material to back this up? I'm a noob help me out here.


I really don't want to do your homework for you. I'm not an expert, but I just know what I know about it from Chem 101-102 & BioChem 111-112 as an undergrad and from experience with watercooling on both sides of the pond using both distilled and deionized that distillation removes both ionic and non-ionic organic contaminants, so, for most intents and purposes distilled IS deionized and then some, and that deionization only removes ionic contaminants (iirc it's a process that exchanges polivalent ions for sodium ions) but not necessarily all organic ones, and that's in their basic definitions and that commercially prepared distilled and deionized water typically also undergoes additional filtration which yields the actual differences between the two irl more in name than in practice.

All you really need to know for watercooling's sake is that either distilled or deionized is perfectly fine for watercooling's purposes and just the sheer number of people here in this forum who have been using either or should be testament enough to this fact. With either you should at least be adding a biocide.

If that's not enough to convince you then by all means google it yourself but beware there is a lot of misinfo out there, as you seem to have already ran into and been convinced by. Perhaps you should go discuss it with a biochem professor somewhere. For someone still in school it might make for a very good biochem project.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I really don't want to do your homework for you. I'm not an expert, but I just know what I know about it from Chem 101-102 & BioChem 111-112 as an undergrad and from experience with watercooling on both sides of the pond using both distilled and deionized that distillation removes both ionic and non-ionic organic contaminants, so, for most intents and purposes distilled IS deionized and then some, and that deionization only removes ionic contaminants (iirc it's a process that exchanges polivalent ions for sodium ions) but not necessarily all organic ones, and that's in their basic definitions and that commercially prepared distilled and deionized water typically also undergoes additional filtration which yields the actual differences between the two irl more in name than in practice.
> 
> All you really need to know for watercooling's sake is that either distilled or deionized is perfectly fine for watercooling's purposes and just the sheer number of people here in this forum who have been using either or should be testament enough to this fact. With either you should at least be adding a biocide.
> 
> If that's not enough to convince you then by all means google it yourself but beware there is a lot of misinfo out there, as you seem to have already ran into and been convinced by. Perhaps you should go discuss it with a biochem professor somewhere. For someone still in school it might make for a very good biochem project.


True, you're not here to do my homework for me but what I've read appears to be that misinformation you refer to so that goes to show why I asked for help. I'm sure you where in a position like this before you started on water, but then again the Distilled water recommended is readily available for you.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Does this video help? It helped me understand it better.


Linking one of his videos won't really help your case much lol

The essential part here is there is no one standard distilled or deionized water. I am lucky enough to work in a lab that has a nice DI water setup that brings the water resistivity to >50 MΩ cm and you can bet I use that all the time. No issues so far in all the loops and tests I have done.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Linking one of his videos won't really help your case much lol
> 
> The essential part here is there is no one standard distilled or deionized water. I am lucky enough to work in a lab that has a nice DI water setup that brings the water resistivity to >50 MΩ cm and you can bet I use that all the time. No issues so far in all the loops and tests I have done.


That was in reference to running GPUs in parallel not the discussion on DI vs Distilled.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> That was in reference to running GPUs in parallel not the discussion on DI vs Distilled.


Yeah I was about to edit that out thanks to multiple topic discussions and me not following them properly but then noticed you had already posted. I still don't buy his blanket argument on series vs parallel but as you said- not relevant to the DI vs distilled. Just get water you please, and be sure to have some antimicrobial/anticorrosive concentrates in it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> True, you're not here to do my homework for me but what I've read appears to be that misinformation you refer to so that goes to show why I asked for help. I'm sure you where in a position like this before you started on water, but then again the Distilled water recommended is readily available for you.


There's a ton of it in this hobby. Mountains of it. Some of it is just OLD information, which has been disproven over the years. Massive guides from the early 2Ks that haven't been updated, but are still circulating like crazy, stuff like that. Your link from JayC2Cents is a perefct example of that.

it goes like this. Americans use Distilled, and most non-Americans use DI, because Distilled is not really available, and people that *waste* money on Mayhem's ultra pure water are simply buying snake oil.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> There's a ton of it in this hobby. Mountains of it. Some of it is just OLD information, which has been disproven over the years. Massive guides from the early 2Ks that haven't been updated, but are still circulating like crazy, stuff like that. Your link from JayC2Cents is a perefct example of that.
> 
> it goes like this. Americans use Distilled, and most non-Americans use DI, because Distilled is not really available, and people that *waste* money on Mayhem's ultra pure water are simply buying snake oil.


I don't understand how my linking his video is an example of misinformation, how does running 3 GPUs in parallel ruin how water moves in a loop? all the cards stay the same temp so am I missing something?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I don't understand how my linking his video is an example of misinformation, how does running 3 GPUs in parallel ruin how water moves in a loop? all the cards stay the same temp so am I missing something?


You misunderstand. The contents of his video, people telling him it won't work because they're scientists & blah blah. That's an example of misinformation.

Most of the time, at least from what I've seen... People hear something, they like the way it sounds, & they run with it without fact checking it, thus the information begins to spread from one person to another, until a complete & total fallacy is running around as fact.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You misunderstand. The contents of his video, people telling him it won't work because they're scientists & blah blah. That's an example of misinformation.
> 
> Most of the time, at least from what I've seen... People hear something, they like the way it sounds, & they run with it without fact checking it, thus the information begins to spread from one person to another, until a complete & total fallacy is running around as fact.


Well tbh I try to learn from information and evidence rather than what Tim on the forum says so yeah... another reason I ask for help from people who know better than me, then when I produce what I've researched, have a discussion about it, that's why I got urked by your responses and eventually lost my temper slightly. Anyway it doesn't matter anymore, I'll just get what ever is about and hope the quality is ok.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Well tbh I try to learn from information and evidence rather than what Tim on the forum says so yeah... another reason I ask for help from people who know better than me, then when I produce what I've researched, have a discussion about it, that's why I got urked by your responses and eventually lost my temper slightly. Anyway it doesn't matter anymore, I'll just get what ever is about and hope the quality is ok.


just avoid silver kill coils.









getting a proper pre-mix is worth every penny. I've been through them all, and i've never seen anything leave a system as clean as Mayhem's X1, though I have a feeling it contains cheap whiskey. (actually, not all, haven't messed with that Dragon product, but I don't really mess with dye, just clear for me)

I also think you might be confusing me with someone else, as I just now jumped in on this convo.

We see people do what J did ALL the time around here, as it looks bad ass, it just requires a metric ton of work if you're also going to tie in the south bridge / memory / mosfets.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Well tbh I try to learn from information and evidence rather than what Tim on the forum says so yeah... another reason I ask for help from people who know better than me, then when I produce what I've researched, have a discussion about it, that's why I got urked by your responses and eventually lost my temper slightly. Anyway it doesn't matter anymore, I'll just get what ever is about and hope the quality is ok.





Take These. And Good Luck.

The Cautious One


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> just avoid silver kill coils.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> getting a proper pre-mix is worth every penny. I've been through them all, and i've never seen anything leave a system as clean as Mayhem's X1, though I have a feeling it contains cheap whiskey. (actually, not all, haven't messed with that Dragon product, but I don't really mess with dye, just clear for me)
> 
> I also think you might be confusing me with someone else, as I just now jumped in on this convo.
> 
> We see people do what J did ALL the time around here, as it looks bad ass, it just requires a metric ton of work if you're also going to tie in the south bridge / memory / mosfets.


I want to cool my ram at one point but I do need to water cool my VRM and NB next to try and reduce my socket temps. There is a thread which shows some nice results due to putting those components under water. Ram isn't really necessary but want to go that route for looks really *shiny shiny*







I'll be using UV coolant next probably premixed.

Don't use a kill coil with DI and distilled water?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nearly there now
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Very nice and clean.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take These. And Good Luck.
> 
> The Cautious One


Cheers buddy!


----------



## Ceadderman

K firstly, with that red and white sleeving go with red fittings over black. Black fittings are awesome but red fits in better with the red and white theme.

Now that that's out of the way... Should I just glue both pieces of .5" plexi together rather than drill and tap and channel the mainboard tray for an o ring? I don't plan to ever use dyes in my loop so I can't think of why I would need to separate the cover from my acrylic mb tray. So long as it's sealed properly wouldn't it be okay to run straight distilled through it?









~Ceadder


----------



## Ductien2112

Hehe, I made it at free time














Taddaaaa


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> [...] Now that that's out of the way... Should I just glue both pieces of .5" plexi together rather than drill and tap and channel the mainboard tray for an o ring? I don't plan to ever use dyes in my loop so I can't think of why I would need to separate the cover from my acrylic mb tray. So long as it's sealed properly wouldn't it be okay to run straight distilled through it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, and that may be the way to go regardless if it's that much easier / cheaper for you, but if you ever did get any crud of debris of any kind stuck in there, for example a spider web growth of some kind like Peter Parker skupples had, you'll be kicking yourself for not having made it so it could be opened up and cleaned out.


----------



## skupples

at free time? As in, during recess @ school? badass!

wish my schools had CNC machines, but nope! We only had wood shop and plastic molding. Endless plastic golf Ts...








you're making me feel seriously deprived as child in American public indoctrination school.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> [...] Now that that's out of the way... Should I just glue both pieces of .5" plexi together rather than drill and tap and channel the mainboard tray for an o ring? I don't plan to ever use dyes in my loop so I can't think of why I would need to separate the cover from my acrylic mb tray. So long as it's sealed properly wouldn't it be okay to run straight distilled through it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, and that may be the way to go regardless if it's that much easier / cheaper for you, but if you ever did get any crud of debris of any kind stuck in there, for example a spider web growth of some kind like Peter Parker skupples had, you'll be kicking yourself for not having made it so it could be opened up and cleaned out.
Click to expand...

Doubtful that something like that would happen. I've minimized the length of design to a straight of ~9" and instead of having the cover in the back it will likely be on the mb side of the tray and run under the hardline crossing freely from the pump to the MB block. Really only need the one run built into the tray, since I will end up running the top 360 outlets closer to feed my GPU setup and run hardline from CPU to it.

Planning things out by hand, has simplified much of what I had running through my noodle. Even with some minor discrepancies in measurements. I've got my case handy and noticed that I don't have as much room between new tray and the back door as I thought I would. Since my RAID 0 and molex fan power block is gonna be behind the MB, and I want the cleanest look possible... Well I hadda cut a corner or two in the wants department.









~Ceadder


----------



## skupples

just to note, I ditched the Liquid Utopia, silver coils, dead water, & PH Nuke for Mayhem's X1... i took the system apart the other day, and my CPU block had ZERO tarnish and ZERO blockage... It's honestly the FIRST time I've ever seen a block this clean after a year of no maintenance. It looked just like it did the day i installed it, minus a single dog hair stuck in the fins...


----------



## Tunz

Today's progress. Still have 3 more tubes to run and clean up the cables in the back.


----------



## 97discosd

so sexy!


----------



## Archea47

I bet it'd look even better with the red fittings









It's gorgeous


----------



## 97discosd

...no less flash wash out


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Today's progress. Still have 3 more tubes to run and clean up the cables in the back.






looks great, just use ambient light to hit it up next time instead of flash.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I bet it'd look even better with the red fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's gorgeous


I may still go with the red fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *97discosd*
> 
> so sexy!


Thank you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *97discosd*
> 
> ...no less flash wash out


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> looks great, just use ambient light to hit it up next time instead of flash.


I'll get better pics when its done. There was really crappy lighting.


----------



## aka13

Guys, I still have the question about anyone having experience with drilling/soldering on tiny pipe for air on rads. I guess if no one did it here, no one did it at all.

The problem is, when vertically mounting a radiator, no matter how much you shake, there always will be air in the top of the rad, if the connectors for water are on the bottom side. And that results in corrosion/salts/etc. Now, what I want to try is to drill a small hole, solder a copper pipe onto it, cut some threading onto it, and use it as improvised air ventil. Anyone did something similar to it?


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Today's progress. Still have 3 more tubes to run and clean up the cables in the back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Where's the PSU?


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Where's the PSU?


Hidden in the back of the case (Enthoo Primo).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Pure. Ridiculous. Laughable. Nonsense.
> 
> ALL purified water will collect ions. There is no difference whatsoever between using Distilled or Deionized (aka demineralised) water in a loop. That's why purified water is essentially nonconductive but starts becoming highly conductive the instant it becomes exposed to open air or poured into a loop. Just like people who pay extra for extra-pure water are throwing away money for nothing. The end result is the same. Anyone who says different doesn't know what they are talking about. Period.
> 
> How many people here in this forum do you think have never used anything but deionized water in their loops? B Negative alone wasn't good enough for you? Really?
> 
> 
> 
> Care to show me some reading material to back this up? I'm a noob help me out here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Went back through and read the ones I missed and ok I'll use DI instead, but c'mon... I know you guys find it laughable when a new guy like me comes in and asks a question out of pure confusion but you could be nicer about it? Chill out, I was confused I wasn't born with the knowledge pre installed like you or B Negative I'm just reading what I can find through research and all though it isn't full applicable to our hobby I thought it was relevant information, obviously not I guess...
> 
> EDIT 2:
> Re wrote what I said because the insults where not needed which I apologise for, sorry.
Click to expand...

At no point did I mock or become offensive to you,I gave you the answer you required.

Although I appreciate Uni's faith in my answers,I say the same to you as all new members of the WC club,cross check what we say or if you have doubts then push for more explanation. My knowledge wasnt 'pre installed',its the result of many loop builds and experimentation coupled with taking advice from highly regarded testers. You can go that route (it gets expensive) too but most choose not to.

Also,this forum is heavily US populated,they are not being offensive,they are just being American...this is how they are day to day. Dont put too much emphasis on perceived emotion in written words.

And Welcome to the Club.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> K firstly, with that red and white sleeving go with red fittings over black. Black fittings are awesome but red fits in better with the red and white theme.
> 
> Now that that's out of the way... Should I just glue both pieces of .5" plexi together rather than drill and tap and channel the mainboard tray for an o ring? I don't plan to ever use dyes in my loop so I can't think of why I would need to separate the cover from my acrylic mb tray. So long as it's sealed properly wouldn't it be okay to run straight distilled through it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You can solvent weld but it requires a bit of skill to get airfree joints,personally I would tap and use a gasket sheet to make a flat oring for the whole mating face.
I made a res for my S3 with solvent weld.




























Came out just fine.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Guys, I still have the question about anyone having experience with drilling/soldering on tiny pipe for air on rads. I guess if no one did it here, no one did it at all.
> 
> The problem is, when vertically mounting a radiator, no matter how much you shake, there always will be air in the top of the rad, if the connectors for water are on the bottom side. And that results in corrosion/salts/etc. Now, what I want to try is to drill a small hole, solder a copper pipe onto it, cut some threading onto it, and use it as improvised air ventil. Anyone did something similar to it?


The ONLY way I know of getting air trapped in this kind of rad, is by buying a rad that has multiple ports and using one of those air bleed fittings. EK makes great rads with multi ports if you need something like this.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Guys, I still have the question about anyone having experience with drilling/soldering on tiny pipe for air on rads. I guess if no one did it here, no one did it at all.
> 
> The problem is, when vertically mounting a radiator, no matter how much you shake, there always will be air in the top of the rad, if the connectors for water are on the bottom side. And that results in corrosion/salts/etc. Now, what I want to try is to drill a small hole, solder a copper pipe onto it, cut some threading onto it, and use it as improvised air ventil. Anyone did something similar to it?


I have a vertical 480 in my STH10 that does NOT have a bleed cap. Getting the air out just took extra time, it wasn't impossible and it didn't require tipping the case onto its face.

@ B - " they're just Americans" gave me a good chuckle.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Guys, I still have the question about anyone having experience with drilling/soldering on tiny pipe for air on rads. I guess if no one did it here, no one did it at all.
> 
> The problem is, when vertically mounting a radiator, no matter how much you shake, there always will be air in the top of the rad, if the connectors for water are on the bottom side. And that results in corrosion/salts/etc. Now, what I want to try is to drill a small hole, solder a copper pipe onto it, cut some threading onto it, and use it as improvised air ventil. Anyone did something similar to it?


I've never done that, but if I had to do it, I'd silver solder a brass nut over a mating hole in the end tank and use a brass screw cut to appropriate length with a rubber washer under the head. A hex head screw would make it easier to loosen or tighten than a machine screw head. Size wise, something around a #10 should be fine . . about 5mm in metric speak.

The only question is do you have the plumber's skills to manage it.

D.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Guys, I still have the question about anyone having experience with drilling/soldering on tiny pipe for air on rads. I guess if no one did it here, no one did it at all.
> 
> The problem is, when vertically mounting a radiator, no matter how much you shake, there always will be air in the top of the rad, if the connectors for water are on the bottom side. And that results in corrosion/salts/etc.


This must be why my drain at the bottom of my vertically mounted 280 rad was so salty looking last time I took it apart... Is there any way of keeping that from happening?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> This must be why my drain at the bottom of my vertically mounted 280 rad was so salty looking last time I took it apart... Is there any way of keeping that from happening?


If you don't have a port on that end, then best to have the ports on the top in a vertically mounted rad. Or just avoid them altogether!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you don't have a port on that end, then best to have the ports on the top in a vertically mounted rad. Or just avoid them altogether!


Has Ports at both ends.
Was an Alphacool 280 UT60, but I have an EK Coolstream XTX 240 that also has 2 ports at one end and 1 port for a drain at the other end


----------



## VSG

You can then slightly open it up with paper towels nearby to catch water (with the pump not on) if you have a stop plug there, or use a BP air release fitting to help in that process.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've never done that, but if I had to do it, I'd silver solder a brass nut over a mating hole in the end tank and use a brass screw cut to appropriate length with a rubber washer under the head. A hex head screw would make it easier to loosen or tighten than a machine screw head. Size wise, something around a #10 should be fine . . about 5mm in metric speak.
> 
> The only question is do you have the plumber's skills to manage it.
> 
> D.


I rather thought of soldering a pipe as tiny as possible on it, something around 10mm thick, cutting threads on it, fit a cap with a rubberised bottom on it and use it as manual air ventil.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can then slightly open it up with paper towels nearby to catch water (with the pump not on) if you have a stop plug there, or use a BP air release fitting to help in that process.


Well I mean that the coolant tends to just stagnate at the bottom port if you put a drain on it there. I had a 90 degree fitting on it followed by a valve and some coolant would sit in the 90 and the fore part of the valve and get nasty.


----------



## sinnedone

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've never done that, but if I had to do it, I'd silver solder a brass nut over a mating hole in the end tank and use a brass screw cut to appropriate length with a rubber washer under the head. A hex head screw would make it easier to loosen or tighten than a machine screw head. Size wise, something around a #10 should be fine . . about 5mm in metric speak.
> 
> The only question is do you have the plumber's skills to manage it.
> 
> D.


I've actually been thinking about doing this to a Alphacool ST30 to help bleeding air out.

I wonder if performance-pcs has any fittings that are brass g/14 thread?

I'd probably just have someone braze/solder it on. (not a plumber by trade lol )


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> At no point did I mock or become offensive to you,I gave you the answer you required.
> 
> Although I appreciate Uni's faith in my answers,I say the same to you as all new members of the WC club,cross check what we say or if you have doubts then push for more explanation. My knowledge wasnt 'pre installed',its the result of many loop builds and experimentation coupled with taking advice from highly regarded testers. You can go that route (it gets expensive) too but most choose not to.
> 
> Also,this forum is heavily US populated,they are not being offensive,they are just being American...this is how they are day to day. Dont put too much emphasis on perceived emotion in written words.
> 
> And Welcome to the Club.


You're right, it was an overreaction on my part which I'm very disappointed in myself with to be perfectly honest, I apologise sincerely to you and Unicr0n as I was out of order and it wasn't warranted at all. I hope you both can forgive me for the hostility and accept my sincerest apology.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*


I've actually been thinking about doing this to a Alphacool ST30 to help bleeding air out.

I wonder if performance-pcs has any fittings that are brass g/14 thread?

I'd probably just have someone braze/solder it on. (not a plumber by trade lol )[/quote]

I have thought on a different solution, also to the alphacool st30s. There is the alphacomputer pressure relief membrane, which is doing exactly what we need, so I thought about driling a hole in the top of my vertically mounted 360mm st30, and then screwing it in applying silicone. Since liquid cooling is almost never over atmospheric pressure, I thought that the silicone contact are should be enough to prevent leaks.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I've actually been thinking about doing this to a Alphacool ST30 to help bleeding air out.
> 
> I wonder if performance-pcs has any fittings that are brass g/14 thread?
> 
> I'd probably just have someone braze/solder it on. (not a plumber by trade lol )


Quote:


> I have thought on a different solution, also to the alphacool st30s. There is the alphacomputer pressure relief membrane, which is doing exactly what we need, so I thought about driling a hole in the top of my vertically mounted 360mm st30, and then screwing it in applying silicone. Since liquid cooling is almost never over atmospheric pressure, I thought that the silicone contact are should be enough to prevent leaks.


seems like wishful thinking to me. You would be better off using JB Weld.... still seems dangerous.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I have thought on a different solution, also to the alphacool st30s. There is the alphacomputer pressure relief membrane, which is doing exactly what we need, so I thought about drilling a hole in the top of my vertically mounted 360mm st30, and then screwing it in applying silicone. Since liquid cooling is almost never over atmospheric pressure, I thought that the silicone contact are should be enough to prevent leaks.


There's not enough material in the end tank wall to tap a thread into so it would probably leak.

The only thing I can think off that doesn't require any sort of solder/welding is maybe with a bulkhead style fitting but much smaller in size to be able to put in the g/14 thread. It would be a pain to feed through and set up though.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> seems like wishful thinking to me. You would be better off using JB Weld.... still seems dangerous.


I concur I actually just saw everything going wrong lol. What's with all these pressure relief valves and such? Could someone tell me what the who haa is all about? I just tilt my case to get all the air out or am I thinking it of it all wrong?


----------



## aka13

The problem is simple - you can tilt the case to get most of the bubbles out. Now, if the rad is positioned like that,
,

over period of 1-2 days there will always be new air there from bubbles etc, which would cause corrosion and salts. And tilting it every 2 days sounds terrible.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> The problem is simple - you can tilt the case to get most of the bubbles out. Now, if the rad is positioned like that,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> 
> 
> 
> over period of 1-2 days there will always be new air there from bubbles etc, which would cause corrosion and salts. And tilting it every 2 days sounds terrible.


Interesting, how does air bubbles equate into corrosion and salts may I ask? I dunno how heavy your case is but could you not just turn the case over for a while until the bubbles move in the loop? Am I talking nonsense again? Sorry.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Interesting, how does air bubbles equate into corrosion and salts may I ask? I dunno how heavy your case is but could you not just turn the case over for a while until the bubbles move in the loop? Am I talking nonsense again? Sorry.


The problem is, there is always air moving around the system, even if it is sealed shut. AIr moving from the tank mostly, since water can and does carry air with it. Even with those innovatek antibubblestuff you still move air around in the system and in such a high point in the sstem the air will logically stay.

The corrosion part is simple - extreme humidity + warmth boost oxidation multiple times. That's why every radiator you have at home has a bleeding vent on it and should be bleeded regularily.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> The problem is, there is always air moving around the system, even if it is sealed shut. AIr moving from the tank mostly, since water can and does carry air with it. Even with those innovatek antibubblestuff you still move air around in the system and in such a high point in the sstem the air will logically stay.
> 
> The corrosion part is simple - extreme humidity + warmth boost oxidation multiple times. That's why every radiator you have at home has a bleeding vent on it and should be bleeded regularily.


Ah ok, I see, I've tried re tilting my case to remove more air bubbles but can't find any more really. There happened to be some bubbles stuck to the inside of my bay res the other day but I tapped the front of it and they went to the top and popped. I'll try removing more air and see if I find any thanks for the information.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah ok, I see, I've tried re tilting my case to remove more air bubbles but can't find any more really. There happened to be some bubbles stuck to the inside of my bay res the other day but I tapped the front of it and they went to the top and popped. I'll try removing more air and see if I find any thanks for the information.


YOu propably don't have the situation with such radiator placement, and of course I am being a bit more dramatic about it than it actually is;
But the problem is still there and it is not an easy solvable one, sadly.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> The problem is simple - you can tilt the case to get most of the bubbles out. Now, if the rad is positioned like that,
> ,
> 
> over period of 1-2 days there will always be new air there from bubbles etc, which would cause corrosion and salts. And tilting it every 2 days sounds terrible.






I really think you're overstating the problem.

Like i said, i have a 60mm 480 in the front of my case w/o a bleed cap, and it didn't require tipping the case on it's face to get all of the air out. I continued to check it for the next few days, and everything's out.

Your case is tiny by comparison, it should be relatively easy to position it in such a way that it wouldn't need constant shaking to remove that air bubble.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> The problem is simple - you can tilt the case to get most of the bubbles out. Now, if the rad is positioned like that,
> ,
> 
> over period of 1-2 days there will always be new air there from bubbles etc, which would cause corrosion and salts. And tilting it every 2 days sounds terrible.


What case is that?


----------



## aka13

It's the corsair air 540, you can see the build log in my sig.


----------



## By-Tor

Thats what I thought it was, but was not 100% sure.

Thanks


----------



## Tunz

I just finished and started leak testing, so far so good. However I'm not really liking the tube going from the gpu to the top rad. I've also tried a 90 degree adapter coming off the block and a 90 degree bend up to the rad and didn't like that either. Any suggestions? I'm also still not sure about the red fittings on the cpu block. Sorry for the horrible pic.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ny1 have a spare Lutro0 8pin and 24pin cable trainer handy?

I would like to know what their dimensions are and the largest bit that will fit each hole. I am wanting to include something similar in my MB tray.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Hey bud, where's your build log?????


----------



## emsj86

How do you go about switching colors. I have blue berry pastel and would like to change to white. I have a drain valve on my bottom 240 rad but there is always still some left over after draining and flushing once or twice. Is there a trick without taking everything apart to clean or do I just need to take everything apart. Note my system has been running 3 months total on the blue pastel and 1 month distilled so I don't think that it needs to be cleaned (as in build up)


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> However I'm not really liking the tube going from the gpu to the top rad. I've also tried a 90 degree adapter coming off the block and a 90 degree bend up to the rad and didn't like that either. Any suggestions?


This is how mine ended up:


----------



## wermad

Purple looks gorgeous


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I just finished and started leak testing, so far so good. However I'm not really liking the tube going from the gpu to the top rad. I've also tried a 90 degree adapter coming off the block and a 90 degree bend up to the rad and didn't like that either. Any suggestions? I'm also still not sure about the red fittings on the cpu block. Sorry for the horrible pic.


Only thing I can think of is maybe switching that run all together maybe bend gpu to the back port of the rad. Like run flat with the gpu than 90 up. Might help match some of the other parallel lines that our below the gpu than the rest somewhat hidden.or go straight up to match the one from the res to cpu than 90 and put a 90 adapter on the rad port


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Purple looks gorgeous


Thanks! Much appreciated


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Just to clarify for everyone it is in the right hole lol
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first things I thought was that it was in the wrong port


Hi,

I'm looking for a clamp for soft tubing (5/8" size) and like in you pic. Looks great and sleek. What are they?

deeph


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm looking for a clamp for soft tubing (5/8" size) and like in you pic. Looks great and sleek. What are they?
> 
> deeph


The clamps are Bitspower Luxury ones, expensive but do a nice job

Just make sure you have a T10 Torx screw driver for them


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ny1 have a spare Lutro0 8pin and 24pin cable trainer handy?
> 
> I would like to know what their dimensions are and the largest bit that will fit each hole. I am wanting to include something similar in my MB tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Assuming you mean Stealth Combs:



I have the open kind also if that's what you meant.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> The clamps are Bitspower Luxury ones, expensive but do a nice job
> 
> Just make sure you have a T10 Torx screw driver for them


Thanks, luckily I only need two though, ....but just barely finished my loop so I only can have them if I want to flush the liquid

Edit: Does anyone know how to use this, I mean for the PWM connections?


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Only thing I can think of is maybe switching that run all together maybe bend gpu to the back port of the rad. Like run flat with the gpu than 90 up. Might help match some of the other parallel lines that our below the gpu than the rest somewhat hidden.or go straight up to match the one from the res to cpu than 90 and put a 90 adapter on the rad port


isn't it proven that loop order has little to zero effect on temps? so you could come off the cpu to the motherboard, then off the motherboard to the gpu's.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hey bud, where's your build log?????


Haven't found it yet, but soon I will be updating hopefully.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

*I know both these builds are using rigid acrylic but what tubing size would this be if it was soft tubing? 3/8' ID-5/8" OD ?
*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ny1 have a spare Lutro0 8pin and 24pin cable trainer handy?
> 
> I would like to know what their dimensions are and the largest bit that will fit each hole. I am wanting to include something similar in my MB tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming you mean Stealth Combs:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the open kind also if that's what you meant.
Click to expand...

The closed ones are the ones I need.









Drillbit size? Anyone with a DigiMic oughtta have one of those hangin round.... Just saw the internal mic frame.







+Rep for the info.









~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The closed ones are the ones I need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drillbit size? Anyone with a DigiMic oughtta have one of those hangin round.... Just saw the internal mic frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep for the info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The closest drill bit sizes would be 9/64" or 3.75mm.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I know both these builds are using rigid acrylic but what tubing size would this be if it was soft tubing? 3/8' ID-5/8" OD ?


Yep! The purple one is actually Monsoon tubing which is even sold as 3/8 5/8", while the fittings are sold as 13/16mm


----------



## Ithanul

Finally getting around to planing out how I am going to bend the acrylic tubes for this build.

Was wondering if I can get any opinions on how I should run the tubes or switch some things around. Since this is my first time doing acrylic tubes for water cooling.


----------



## aka13

I'd say there is a bit too much red in your build, the black is getting replaced by it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Finally getting around to planing out how I am going to bend the acrylic tubes for this build.
> 
> Was wondering if I can get any opinions on how I should run the tubes or switch some things around. Since this is my first time doing acrylic tubes for water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Head over to the hardline thread for more in depth info and help. If you don't have a bending kit, i would recommend making a jig/form to help w/ the bends if you're not good at free handing it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101

Looking very nice so far







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I'd say there is a bit too much red in your build, the black is getting replaced by it.












Its mostly red accents w/ red fittings. How it be overwhelming the black???

It looks pretty tasty to me. Especially the cpu.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Finally getting around to planing out how I am going to bend the acrylic tubes for this build.
> 
> Was wondering if I can get any opinions on how I should run the tubes or switch some things around. Since this is my first time doing acrylic tubes for water cooling.


One thing I would do is turn that drain valve 90 deg. so it's not pointing straight down on your psu,looks like it would be hard to open/close.


----------



## aka13

For me it's the mobo heatsinks right next to the CPU block. The block itself looks great, but the red rads ruin it for me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I'd say there is a bit too much red in your build, the black is getting replaced by it.


How is that answering his question regarding tube runs?

Your aesthetic values are irrelevant.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How is that answering his question regarding tube runs?
> 
> Your aesthetic values are irrelevant.


Your opinion on my opinion is even less relevant.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Your opinion on my opinion is even less relevant.


Lol play nice boys!


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Your opinion on my opinion is even less relevant.


Considering he runs the club, it's very relevant.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Wheres my...... AH!

@B NEGATIVE


----------



## korruptedkaos

Oh lord! Is it me or has OCN become a place for people to just to rant at each other for silly things?







cmon grow up lads









So back on topic.








What do you guys think of laser etching patterns on acrylic tube?
think it will work or will it just not seal properly & crack eventually or something?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Oh lord! Is it me or has OCN become a place for people to just to rant at each other for silly things?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cmon grow up lads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back on topic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of laser etching patterns on acrylic tube?
> think it will work or will it just not seal properly & crack eventually or something?


I think it would work! Just so it's not to deep in the acrylic.

The Cautious One


----------



## aka13

deleted


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think it would work! Just so it's not to deep in the acrylic.
> 
> The Cautious One


that's good to hear. ill be testing it out in the next few days. so I will let you guys know how it goes.

I have some reservations wether it will work or not. should be cool though if it does.









this is the image I will using & tiling it to fit around & along the tube.



I might use a UV liquid aswell to help it stand out more.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> that's good to hear. ill be testing it out in the next few days. so I will let you guys know how it goes.
> 
> I have some reservations wether it will work or not. should be cool though if it does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is the image I will using & tiling it to fit around & along the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> I might use a UV liquid aswell to help it stand out more.


OH Man I am no Pro. Do certain companies sell the bigger tubing (16mm) with a thicker OD than say.. a 12mm tube?

The Cautious One


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> OH Man I am no Pro. Do certain companies sell the bigger tubing (16mm) with a thicker OD than say.. a 12mm tube?
> 
> The Cautious One


yeah, but I have 12mm tubing









ive already got it all ready to go. if you look at the image it will be 3 webs around the diameter & then down the length of the tube. it would look better on bigger tubing. but I already have 12mm tubing & the fittings so it will have to do.

I think it was lowfats build that gave me the idea. where he sleeved his tubes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Oh lord! Is it me or has OCN become a place for people to just to rant at each other for silly things?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cmon grow up lads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back on topic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of laser etching patterns on acrylic tube?
> think it will work or will it just not seal properly & crack eventually or something?


Diamond Cooling already offer that service.

Speak to Hukkel on Bittech.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Diamond Cooling already offer that service.
> 
> Speak to Hukkel on Bittech.


Cool!

is it safe to bend it after etching?

any links or pics, I thought nobody had ever done it









bittech is a pain for me I still have to wait for posts to be approved









Edit: oh I see, I mean down the entire length & completely around it though.

so I still don't think anybodys done what I mean


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Diamond Cooling already offer that service.
> 
> Speak to Hukkel on Bittech.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool!
> 
> is it safe to bend it after etching?
> 
> any links or pics, I thought nobody had ever done it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bittech is a pain for me I still have to wait for posts to be approved
Click to expand...

https://www.facebook.com/diamondcooling/photos_stream

The pics already posted have the etched tube in place but here is a better one.



You can bend it but be aware that the etching will deform,it wont weaken the tube however.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/diamondcooling/photos_stream
> 
> The pics already posted have the etched tube in place but here is a better one.
> 
> 
> 
> You can bend it but be aware that the etching will deform,it wont weaken the tube however.


yeah if it deforms too much ill just do the bends with fittings.











that's what I mean like this entirely down & around the tube.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think it would work! Just so it's not to deep in the acrylic.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> 
> 
> that's good to hear. ill be testing it out in the next few days. so I will let you guys know how it goes.
> 
> I have some reservations wether it will work or not. should be cool though if it does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is the image I will using & tiling it to fit around & along the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> I might use a UV liquid aswell to help it stand out more.
Click to expand...

Be sure to anneal the tubing after you have it all lasered . . . That's a whole lotta stress risers right there . . .

D.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Thought of doing that after seeing wisk do it.


----------



## Archea47

FYI I placed an order from aquatuning.us with Premier shipping (middle tier) and everything arrived from Germany to the US correctly in 3 business days, even during the holiday

I was hesitant to order from them because I wasn't sure if they were legit but all was well







Posting this for other people in the same situation


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> This is how mine ended up:


























I so appreciate seeing other monoblock owners... They're a dying breed these days. Looks good with color inside it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

actually like the looks of the mono blocks, wish they designed one for my board


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Head over to the hardline thread for more in depth info and help. If you don't have a bending kit, i would recommend making a jig/form to help w/ the bends if you're not good at free handing it.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101
> 
> Looking very nice so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its mostly red accents w/ red fittings. How it be overwhelming the black???
> 
> It looks pretty tasty to me. Especially the cpu.


Thank you. That CPU block bracket took a bit of my time to mask off and spray paint. I am glad it came out that good since it was my fourth time spray painting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> For me it's the mobo heatsinks right next to the CPU block. The block itself looks great, but the red rads ruin it for me.


I can understand that those heat sinks are quite a bit of red compare to the rest, but I just a bit to leery to paint those from their stock color.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I so appreciate seeing other monoblock owners... They're a dying breed these days. Looks good with color inside it.


You've made my day, Profezzor. Your build was pretty much the inspiration for mine, tbh.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> actually like the looks of the mono blocks, wish they designed one for my board


Same. Really do wish that they would consider such for more than just one board per generation, because it sure tidies up a number of things.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> You've made my day, Profezzor. Your build was pretty much the inspiration for mine, tbh.


Thanks electro2u... I guess I'm more obsessive compulsive when it comes to my builds, because I know I have to live with the decisions I make. So, I make it a point to do the acrylic tubing design in a way that won't bother me over time. My last WC build urked the heck out of me because it was so imperfect and semi-sloppy that I ended up giving it away (to my kids) than just change out the ugly tubing. I call that being a little lazy on my part though.


----------



## >Insomniac<

Temporary loop until blocks for my 970s are available, because I have no patience.


----------



## electro2u

For being temporary, that looks pretty serious =)


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *>Insomniac<*
> 
> Temporary loop until blocks for my 970s are available, because I have no patience.


pardon me, how did u get the ROG logo on the Swiftech CPU block..?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Knight*
> 
> pardon me, how did u get the ROG logo on the Swiftech CPU block..?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/featured-products/swiftech-apogee-xl-ppcs-custom-rog-edition.html



They do one in white too, or you can have them do a custom logo. Pretty nifty.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/featured-products/swiftech-apogee-xl-ppcs-custom-rog-edition.html
> 
> 
> 
> They do one in white too, or you can have them do a custom logo. Pretty nifty.


Have mine on my desk waiting for me to install my Hero MB.

Very sexy!!!


----------



## tarui04

can anyone tell me if this position or bending of tubing is fine? is it bent too much within a short space or something?

there's a small leak at the barb there (cant be certain until I drain it later) if i push the tubing a little, i suspect it could be due to the fitting not being tightened properly or tubing bent at an awkward angle, hence pulling itself loose.


----------



## Trestles126

Forget it I posted here but here are my new icemodz sleeved cables... Great customer service and speed on custom orders


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Diamond Cooling already offer that service.
> 
> Speak to Hukkel on Bittech.


Tim posts here as well. @Hukkel


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can anyone tell me if this position or bending of tubing is fine? is it bent too much within a short space or something?
> 
> there's a small leak at the barb there (cant be certain until I drain it later) if i push the tubing a little, i suspect it could be due to the fitting not being tightened properly or tubing bent at an awkward angle, hence pulling itself loose.


looks fine to me


----------



## emsj86

Does anyone know if the heatsink housing for the mcp355 fits the mcp35x. They seem the same but I'm unsure. Was looking to buy the bitspower one to match bitspower top


----------



## lowfat

The DDC heatsinks will fit any DDC3, which includes the MCP35X.


----------



## emsj86

@lowfat thank you. Wish I cod find someone who sold just the acrylic tube adapter for the multi z tank by itself without having to buy the reservior with it (I already have the res just want to change the bottom to be clear and connect straight to my pump top)


----------



## Maximus Knight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/featured-products/swiftech-apogee-xl-ppcs-custom-rog-edition.html
> 
> 
> 
> They do one in white too, or you can have them do a custom logo. Pretty nifty.


very nice..!!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone heard anything good/bad on the Bitspower Summit EF blocks? I was looking at the ICE True Black version: Bitspower Summit EF ICE True Black


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Anyone heard anything good/bad on the Bitspower Summit EF blocks? I was looking at the ICE True Black version


Its a nice looking block,its a big ol thing tho...

Performance will be the same as all the rest,only a c or 2 in it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

ok good to know on the size, other than my Raystorm isn't the smallest block I've seen/used either and I still have my Apogee HD/XL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Forget it I posted here but here are my new icemodz sleeved cables... Great customer service and speed on custom orders


That looks fantasmogorphic.









~Ceadder


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I'm redoing my loop next week and need some advice. I'm changing my GPUs from series to parallel, and was wondering if this path will work. The order would be Res>Pump(D5)>360 rad>Video cards>480 rad>Mosfet block>CPU>Back through the video cards>res. Now from the small amount of reading I've done, the flow rate would be heavily impacted going this route, is that correct?


sorry totally late but.. what you suggest could possibly have ZERO FLOW through the GPUs.

Here is the best explanation. BLUE is tubing. GREEN is inside the block.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I'm redoing my loop next week and need some advice. I'm changing my GPUs from series to parallel, and was wondering if this path will work. The order would be Res>Pump(D5)>360 rad>Video cards>480 rad>Mosfet block>CPU>Back through the video cards>res. Now from the small amount of reading I've done, the flow rate would be heavily impacted going this route, is that correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry totally late but.. what you suggest could possibly have ZERO FLOW through the GPUs.
> 
> Here is the best explanation. BLUE is tubing. GREEN is inside the block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
Click to expand...

Actually, while you are definitely correct that routing would not be advisable, the way Tunz has it would be putting the 480 rad, the mosfet, and the CPU block, all in serial so their restriction is combined, to run in parallel with the GPU blocks. In other words, since flow is going to take the path of least resistance, all of the flow is going to go through those GPUs and none or next-to-none through the 480 rad, the mosfet, and the CPU block. Everything above the top GPU would be a stagnant part of the loop.

Edit:
Just realized you were replying to a post from a week and a half ago that had already been responded to.









Late edit:

In any case, if you wanted to add parallel GPUs to that loop this would be the way to do it ...


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> This is how mine ended up:


Thanks for the suggestion. Your build looks great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> *I know both these builds are using rigid acrylic but what tubing size would this be if it was soft tubing? 3/8' ID-5/8" OD ?
> *


Mine is 3/8" ID-1/2" OD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Actually, while you are definitely correct that routing would not be advisable, the way Tunz has it would be putting the 480 rad, the mosfet, and the CPU block, all in serial so their restriction is combined, to run in parallel with the GPU blocks. In other words, since flow is going to take the path of least resistance, all of the flow is going to go through those GPUs and none or next-to-none through the 480 rad, the mosfet, and the CPU block.


Correct.

It's finally done.


----------



## Archea47

I'm lovin' it Tunz


----------



## sinnedone

Nice work Tunz.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. Your build looks great.
> Mine is 3/8" ID-1/2" OD
> Correct.
> 
> It's finally done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wasn't very interested in your earlier posts about that build, but it came out really awesome in the end, even though I'm bored of the white and red colour scheme.


----------



## psycho84

Don't if someone has already Post this ?

CASES DIMASTECH A INDIEGOGO CAMPAIGN


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Don't if someone has already Post this ?
> 
> CASES DIMASTECH A INDIEGOGO CAMPAIGN


Woo thanks for the nice link!~
If it weren't for that bar down the center of the windows on all but the smallest and biggest variations, I'd be in for one and thinking about how to cover up the Dimastech logo on the front.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Don't if someone has already Post this ?
> 
> CASES DIMASTECH A INDIEGOGO CAMPAIGN


Seen it,a LD V8 clone....some nice touches with the customization side of things but it looks.....not good...for me anyway.


----------



## Gabrielzm

A wonderful 2015 to all here with more awesome builds on the next year for our delight.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> A wonderful 2015 to all here with more awesome builds on the next year for our delight.


happy new year dude! hopefully I can bring something new to the table in 2015!

ive been working on some idea's that haven't really been done before!

thanks to James Walt & B- neg & lowfat & also imersa & the parvum staff for inspiring me to come up with these idea's! you have all been a big part in my inspiration this year.
im a lil bit OCD haha, but thx! also a big shout out to Wisk the SFF guru! for teaching me a few things along the way & tempting me to explore the SFF! everyone this year who has inspired me one way or another a big thanks from me!









I love engineering & seeing new concepts! hopefully 2015 will be a year of pushing the boundaries of modding for me!
hopefully you will like what I come up with?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seen it,a LD V8 clone....some nice touches with the customization side of things but it looks.....not good...for me anyway.


I don't quite see how those side panels that run from the top of the case to the bottom would work. It seems like you are expected to mount rads to removable side panels.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Seen it,a LD V8 clone....some nice touches with the customization side of things but it looks.....not good...for me anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't quite see how those side panels that run from the top of the case to the bottom would work. It seems like you are expected to mount rads to removable side panels.
Click to expand...

Exactly,just the same as that XSPC cube from a few years ago,it works for normal tubing.....just nothing else


----------



## lawndart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. Your build looks great.
> Mine is 3/8" ID-1/2" OD
> Correct.
> 
> It's finally done.


Sweet mother of YIKES!!!!

Love it

LawnDart


----------



## vilius572

Hello everybody! Should I change my tubing route to res>pump>rad>gpu>cpu>rad>back to res? Or I should just keep this one? (res>pump>rad>gpu>rad>cpu>back to res)


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Hello everybody! Should I change my tubing route to res>pump>rad>gpu>cpu>rad>back to res? Or I should just keep this one? (res>pump>rad>gpu>rad>cpu>back to res)


I'd leave it the way it is.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> I'd leave it the way it is.


Is there any benefits to leave it like this? Cooler temps?


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Is there any benefits to leave it like this? Cooler temps?


loop order has almost no impact on temps


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Hello everybody! Should I change my tubing route to res>pump>rad>gpu>cpu>rad>back to res? Or I should just keep this one? (res>pump>rad>gpu>rad>cpu>back to res)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Personally, I would flip the front rad to the ports are at the top. Then I would go res>pump>gpu>top rad>cpu>front rad>res. But as Angrychair has said, loop order has minuscule effect on temps


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Personally, I would flip the front rad to the ports are at the top. Then I would go res>pump>gpu>top rad>cpu>front rad>res. But as Angrychair has said, loop order has minuscule effect on temps


So actually there is no need to to anything.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> So actually there is no need to to anything.


Technically no. I really doubt you would get any kind of performance gain from changing loop order. If you like how it looks now, then leave it. Any change would be for aesthetics only


----------



## Angrychair

well as moren said, it may be hard to get all the air out of that front rad wtih the ports at the bottom, but nothing impossible. I dig the yellow coolant, it's insanely yellow. It's mayhem I assume.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Technically no. I really doubt you would get any kind of performance gain from changing loop order. If you like how it looks now, then leave it. Any change would be for aesthetics only


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> well as moren said, it may be hard to get all the air out of that front rad wtih the ports at the bottom, but nothing impossible. I dig the yellow coolant, it's insanely yellow. It's mayhem I assume.


I actually want to change loop order just for look but I'm not quite sure if I'm going to. I have drained this loop few times and never had any problem with air bubbles. Yes this is Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow coolant


----------



## Angrychair

at the risk of being flamed..... I haven't drained my loop in 2 years..... just running distilled with a kill coil and white tubing so no light hits the water except the tiny bit in the front of th e xspc bayres. I know I should do a flush but....I'm lazy. My rig is so heavy and its hard to get all air out of my rad also.


----------



## emsj86

It won't be huge but switching the top rad fans to intake could help on some temps and give posting preasure


----------



## emsj86

With the new year coming. What our some mods or items you would like to see come out. Personally I want to see a 200-300 range case with side mounted rad for the bottom and a mid plate. Or at least more of them.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> at the risk of being flamed..... I haven't drained my loop in 2 years..... just running distilled with a kill coil and white tubing so no light hits the water except the tiny bit in the front of th e xspc bayres. I know I should do a flush but....I'm lazy. My rig is so heavy and its hard to get all air out of my rad also.


Meh.. if it ain't broke don't fix it. Only time I drain is when I'm changing out parts. Longest I've gone without draining was about 18 months without any problems. If you don't have any growth, corrosion, etc, I see no real reason to drain and flush.

Also, @emsj86, why don't you edit your posts instead of making multiple back to back posts?


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Meh.. if it ain't broke don't fix it. Only time I drain is when I'm changing out parts. Longest I've gone without draining was about 18 months without any problems. If you don't have any growth, corrosion, etc, I see no real reason to drain and flush.
> 
> Also, @emsj86, why don't you edit your posts instead of making multiple back to back posts?


that post count though...

Cool, that was my thought. I always wanted to find full cover blocks for my 680 classifieds but they are like unicorns, and when found, over priced.


----------



## MR KROGOTH

Any body have one of CD's old waterfall reservoirs?

Looking for pictures.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> that post count though...
> 
> Cool, that was my thought. I always wanted to find full cover blocks for my 680 classifieds but they are like unicorns, and when found, over priced.


Price of new full coverage GPU blocks is the main reason I've held off upgrading my cards for so long. That and the SLI 470's can still hold their own pretty well. I'm considering going with the EK Therosphere blocks for my next GPU(s)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR KROGOTH*
> 
> Any body have one of CD's old waterfall reservoirs?
> 
> Looking for pictures.


https://www.google.com/search?q=cyberdruid+waterfall+reservoir&espv=2&biw=1024&bih=655&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=MkGkVIj2NYS1yATejIKgAw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw


----------



## Elloquin

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?183483-Another-WaterFall-Reservoir


----------



## MR KROGOTH

I am more than capable of google image searching.

I'm hoping people still use them, looking for them installed.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Price of new full coverage GPU blocks is the main reason I've held off upgrading my cards for so long. That and the SLI 470's can still hold their own pretty well. I'm considering going with the EK Therosphere blocks for my next GPU(s)
> https://www.google.com/search?q=cyberdruid+waterfall+reservoir&espv=2&biw=1024&bih=655&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=MkGkVIj2NYS1yATejIKgAw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw


Go w/ used blocks. From my experience, after about a year, gpu blocks will depreciate about 50%. Though, EK, being very popular will still go for a bit more then others from what i saw recently. I bought my three used Koolance blocks for ~$65 each. Better then the ~$130 some retailers are still selling them for.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Go w/ used blocks. From my experience, after about a year, gpu blocks will depreciate about 50%. Though, EK, being very popular will still go for a bit more then others from what i saw recently. I bought my three used Koolance blocks for ~$65 each. Better then the ~$130 some retailers are still selling them for.


That was also my second option. Pick up a card one generation behind the newest at the time and get second had blocks. 770's and 780's are really dropping in price a lot since the release of the 900 series cards. And I suspect them to drop even more after the 960's are released.


----------



## WiSK

Anyone know of a T-fitting that can go between two GPUs?

For draining advantage I want to have the inlet tube running between the cards, flowing through the cards in parallel, and the outlet at the bottom card. It's mATX so haven't got much space between the cards.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That was also my second option. Pick up a card one generation behind the newest at the time and get second had blocks. 770's and 780's are really dropping in price a lot since the release of the 900 series cards. And I suspect them to drop even more after the 960's are released.


saw a ton of 79xx blocks on ebay recently, and Tahiti is still a solid choice. 680s are selling for a bit more then these but that's expected, Nvidia will depreciate a bit slower vs amd. I've seen a few 780/titan blocks, though careful if you go w/ Ti as the blocks have to be Ti compatible. I've seen quite a few listings, claiming Ti compatible but some aren't.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Anyone know of a T-fitting that can go between two GPUs?
> 
> For draining advantage I want to have the inlet tube running between the cards, flowing through the cards in parallel, and the outlet at the bottom card. It's mATX so haven't got much space between the cards.


depends on how many slots in between, to know if you have clearance for a T junction. You can always use a 90° and go series.

edit:


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> saw a ton of 79xx blocks on ebay recently, and Tahiti is still a solid choice. 680s are selling for a bit more then these but that's expected, Nvidia will depreciate a bit slower vs amd. I've seen a few 780/titan blocks, though careful if you go w/ Ti as the blocks have to be Ti compatible. I've seen quite a few listings, claiming Ti compatible but some aren't.


Thanks for the heads up. It'll probably be a while until I upgrade, but good to keep that in mind.

And I'm not sure how I feel about AMD cards. I had a 4890 a while back and wasn't a fan of their Control Center suite thing, but that may have changed since then. Probably worth looking into used AMD cards when I finally do upgrade.


----------



## universall1

my new rig build finish it before two days

case 900d corsair
MB MSI Z97 gaming 7
gtx 980 superclocked edition 4gb
i7 4770k
16 gb ram 1866 mhz
ek cpu supremecy evo block
ek fc980 block for gtx980
kingstone ssd 240gb
WD 1T HD black series
Asus optical drive bluray
ek backplate for gpu
ek res 250
1x 360 ek PE radiator
1x ek D5 pump
lot of EK & bitspower fitting,extentions and angle 45,90 fittings
primochill LRT soft tube


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can always use a 90° and go series.


Thanks but I want a solution that drains by gravity only. In series the inlet coolant has to go upwards first and it means there will be liquid still left in that tube when opening the drain port.

Probably simplest/cheapest solution is to polyweld two short pieces of acrylic at right angles.


----------



## Doc3379

Nice looking build. But that has to be the weirdest use of un-needed fitting I've ever seen.


----------



## universall1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> Nice looking build. But that has to be the weirdest use of un-needed fitting I've ever seen.


to give the rig clean metal touches







instead of soft tube bendings


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Thanks but I want a solution that drains by gravity only. In series the inlet coolant has to go upwards first and it means there will be liquid still left in that tube when opening the drain port.
> 
> Probably simplest/cheapest solution is to polyweld two short pieces of acrylic at right angles.


Even the best drain systems will still have some liquid sitting in the loop, especially the horizontally placed gpu cards. If you have a board that supports 4-way, use the top and most bottom slots, you'll have enough room for a T junction. Its too risky imho to diy a fitting so close to your hardware just for a small purpose. Good luck though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *universall1*
> 
> my new rig build finish it before two days
> 
> case 900d corsair
> MB MSI Z97 gaming 7
> gtx 980 superclocked edition 4gb
> i7 4770k
> 16 gb ram 1866 mhz
> ek cpu supremecy evo block
> ek fc980 block for gtx980
> kingstone ssd 240gb
> WD 1T HD black series
> Asus optical drive bluray
> ek backplate for gpu
> ek res 250
> 1x 360 ek PE radiator
> 1x ek D5 pump
> lot of EK & bitspower fitting,extentions and angle 45,90 fittings
> primochill LRT soft tube
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't forget the obsidian club:

http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-900d-800d-750d-700d-650d-550d-450d-350d-250d-club/7830#post_23343893


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *universall1*
> 
> my new rig build finish it before two days
> 
> case 900d corsair
> MB MSI Z97 gaming 7
> gtx 980 superclocked edition 4gb
> i7 4770k
> 16 gb ram 1866 mhz
> ek cpu supremecy evo block
> ek fc980 block for gtx980
> kingstone ssd 240gb
> WD 1T HD black series
> Asus optical drive bluray
> ek backplate for gpu
> ek res 250
> 1x 360 ek PE radiator
> 1x ek D5 pump
> lot of EK & bitspower fitting,extentions and angle 45,90 fittings
> primochill LRT soft tube
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


9/10 to0 much fittings


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its too risky imho to diy a fitting so close to your hardware just for a small purpose. Good luck though


Challenge accepted! Thanks


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> 9/10 to0 much fittings


lol think someone needs to make a loop w/ only fittings


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> lol think someone needs to make a loop w/ only fittings


pretty sure I've seen it done


----------



## electro2u

Holy cow. And I thought I had too many fittings, how are those qdcs even supposed to function.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Don't if someone has already Post this ?
> 
> CASES DIMASTECH A INDIEGOGO CAMPAIGN


Definitely not a fan. The front just doesn't look good at all.. And why so few fan placements, especially on a case so monstrously huge.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can always use a 90° and go series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks but I want a solution that drains by gravity only. In series the inlet coolant has to go upwards first and it means there will be liquid still left in that tube when opening the drain port.
> 
> Probably simplest/cheapest solution is to polyweld two short pieces of acrylic at right angles.
Click to expand...

Maybe a BP Acrylic Q/T fitting with a pair of 5mm Male to Male?


----------



## Nichismo




----------



## electro2u

Looks absolutely stunning.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Phase 1 complete!













More pics in my build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1523897/build-log-project-gray-son-sma8


----------



## emsj86

I'm sorry about double posting. I'll fix it from now on. Usually posting through my phone which doesn't have the same as desktop. Either way seems I'm not good at the whole forum thing so.... Maybe I should chill for awhile on it


----------



## LittleBrant

Nichismo, your build is absolutely marvelous.


----------



## Nichismo

I appreciate the comments guys, it means alot









Lighting was finally good for a few of these shots, but the yellowish tint Is ruining the white coolant


----------



## everclearhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. Your build looks great.
> Mine is 3/8" ID-1/2" OD
> Correct.
> 
> It's finally done.


That tubing looks awesome! Nicely done


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I appreciate the comments guys, it means alot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lighting was finally good for a few of these shots, but the yellowish tint Is ruining the white coolant


it's from the indirect light in the room, getting better at taking shots


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm sorry about double posting. I'll fix it from now on. Usually posting through my phone which doesn't have the same as desktop. Either way seems I'm not good at the whole forum thing so.... Maybe I should chill for awhile on it


Don't worry about it. Phone is a decent reason to double post, imo. On mine I found if I just change to desktop site I don't have problems anymore but I used to double post constantly because of it. Happy New Year


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe a BP Acrylic Q/T fitting with a pair of 5mm Male to Male?


There's 20.something millemeters between each expansion slot, and the cards have watercool blocks on them, so got under 30mm to play with. The Q-rotaries are 24mm, so I don't think I've got enough space at all.

You have the same set up in Lumo IIRC: watercool blocks and cards on the 1st and 3rd slots, right?


----------



## Jakusonfire

If it was EK blocks I would maybe look at modifying a parallel bridge by tapping a new port in the bottom but that doesn't look feasible with the watercool bridges because the sides are profiled thinner. I'm not sure how you would even attach any fitting that would fit in the gap, though I guess you could remove the inlet sections from the blocks to do it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe a BP Acrylic Q/T fitting with a pair of 5mm Male to Male?
> 
> 
> 
> There's 20.something millemeters between each expansion slot, and the cards have watercool blocks on them, so got under 30mm to play with. The Q-rotaries are 24mm, so I don't think I've got enough space at all.
> 
> You have the same set up in Lumo IIRC: watercool blocks and cards on the 1st and 3rd slots, right?
Click to expand...

Mine is serial tho....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe a BP Acrylic Q/T fitting with a pair of 5mm Male to Male?
> 
> 
> 
> There's 20.something millemeters between each expansion slot, and the cards have watercool blocks on them, so got under 30mm to play with. The Q-rotaries are 24mm, so I don't think I've got enough space at all.
> 
> You have the same set up in Lumo IIRC: watercool blocks and cards on the 1st and 3rd slots, right?
Click to expand...

If you have some access to machine tools, a lathe in particular . . . .

Use the male half of a D plug on each card, and make a custom acrylic T piece to go between them . . . the center with a G1/4 thread, and the ears with the same bore as the female D plug has.

Make the T piece the full width between the plugs, so it engages both o rings on each side and maximizes mechanical integrity . . .

If that ends up with too little gap between the D plugs for good flow, cut one or both back to 1 o rings' length as needed.

You'd have essentially a dual rotary T.

Darlene


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have some access to machine tools, a lathe in particular . . . .
> 
> Use the male half of a D plug on each card, and make a custom acrylic T piece to go between them . . . the center with a G1/4 thread, and the ears with the same bore as the female D plug has.
> 
> Make the T piece the full width between the plugs, so it engages both o rings on each side and maximizes mechanical integrity . . .
> 
> If that ends up with too little gap between the D plugs for good flow, cut one or both back to 1 o rings' length as needed.
> 
> You'd have essentially a dual rotary T.
> 
> Darlene


You are magic! Thank you, I think I can manage something like that


----------



## psycho84




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Maybe a BP Acrylic Q/T fitting with a pair of 5mm Male to Male?
> 
> 
> 
> There's 20.something millemeters between each expansion slot, and the cards have watercool blocks on them, so got under 30mm to play with. The Q-rotaries are 24mm, so I don't think I've got enough space at all.
> 
> You have the same set up in Lumo IIRC: watercool blocks and cards on the 1st and 3rd slots, right?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you have some access to machine tools, a lathe in particular . . . .
> 
> Use the male half of a D plug on each card, and make a custom acrylic T piece to go between them . . . the center with a G1/4 thread, and the ears with the same bore as the female D plug has.
> 
> Make the T piece the full width between the plugs, so it engages both o rings on each side and maximizes mechanical integrity . . .
> 
> If that ends up with too little gap between the D plugs for good flow, cut one or both back to 1 o rings' length as needed.
> 
> You'd have essentially a dual rotary T.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Thats worth rep.


----------



## ledzepp3

Hey everyone









I've recently got my rig back up and running. I forgot how warm my rig used to run even with a 560mm and 360mm radiator setup in it, and so I'm thinking of swapping from Noiseblocker PK-2 fans on 7V to PK-3 fans on 7 V. Would you guys consider that to be a worthwhile update? I'd probably end up utilizing the old 140mm fans in a pull config to aid my front mounted 360 rad which is currently in a pull setup.

-Zepp


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of swapping from Noiseblocker PK-2 fans on 7V to PK-3 fans on 7 V. Would you guys consider that to be a worthwhile update?
> 
> -Zepp


Why not just run your PK-2's at a higher voltage?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Why not just run your PK-2's at a higher voltage?


The noise that the PK-2's make at that high of a speed bother me for whatever reason. I'm actually just considering swapping out my 360 in the front for a 420mm rad and putting my existing PK-2's on there. I'm getting 70C temps on my CPU at load with my fans at 7V, so adding more radiating space would be the next step in reducing temps of my loop.

-Zepp


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> The noise that the PK-2's make at that high of a speed bother me for whatever reason.
> -Zepp


But aren't the PK-3's just higher speed PK-2's? I assume they still use the same bearings. I might be wrong tho i haven't actually had hand on experience with either.

I think you might actually want to try out some other high end fans to see what noise signatures suit you. Maybe you could buy a few for testing? seems like the safest bet (although not the cheapest).


----------



## psycho84




----------



## 97discosd




----------



## Ragsters

Added new card!:



Without flash:


----------



## jleslie246

Cleaning my system for the first time. oh my this is a lot of work!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Added new card!:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without flash:


Awesome, I love the white. Looking at the rig builder I see you got a pretty good price on the second card







I like those clear EK terminals like you have

Is that the Primochill Advanced LRT tubing? I've used their colored tubing since my first try with it in clear and finding a lot of plasticizer-like material in my Supremacy block. I've been curious if that's been other peoples' experience since I do like the clear


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Is that the Primochill Advanced LRT tubing? I've used their colored tubing since my first try with it in clear and finding a lot of plasticizer-like material in my Supremacy block. I've been curious if that's been other peoples' experience since I do like the clear


I've been using the Advance LRT for about 7 months now, and the tubing does cloud up a little bit. I cant speak about plasticizer as i have yet to tear my loop apart for maintenance to check for any such issues, but I can't say i've noticed any change in temps after changing from paste to CLU.

Here's some pics of how my tubing looks now.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fan Turbine?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Added new card!:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without flash:


That Res looks like a little rocket with those feet! I like it.

THe Cautious ONe


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Awesome, I love the white. Looking at the rig builder I see you got a pretty good price on the second card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like those clear EK terminals like you have
> 
> Is that the Primochill Advanced LRT tubing? I've used their colored tubing since my first try with it in clear and finding a lot of plasticizer-like material in my Supremacy block. I've been curious if that's been other peoples' experience since I do like the clear


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> I've been using the Advance LRT for about 7 months now, and the tubing does cloud up a little bit. I cant speak about plasticizer as i have yet to tear my loop apart for maintenance to check for any such issues, but I can't say i've noticed any change in temps after changing from paste to CLU.
> 
> Here's some pics of how my tubing looks now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Same with me. This is the second time I change out the tubing and both times I noticed the tubing a bit cloudy.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That Res looks like a little rocket with those feet! I like it.
> 
> THe Cautious ONe


I am liking that swiftech heatsink less and less. I'm pretty sure I will eventually change it out for the bitspower white sink. Right now the only thing that is keeping me from doing that is having to buy another Caselabs accessory and drill new holes for the new feet.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I am liking that swiftech heatsink less and less. I'm pretty sure I will eventually change it out for the bitspower white sink. Right now the only thing that is keeping me from doing that is having to buy another Caselabs accessory and drill new holes for the new feet.


I just had a discussion with some one, I think @IT Diva mentioned you would have to mod the bitspower DDC bottom a little bit because of interference with the cables from the DDC possibly being cut? I have only purchased the EK DDC nickle bottoms so far and they fit in there like butta.

The Cautious One ( I do love the white Bitspower ones though)


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I just had a discussion with some one, I think @IT Diva mentioned you would have to mod the bitspower DDC bottom a little bit because of interference with the cables from the DDC possibly being cut? I have only purchased the EK DDC nickle bottoms so far and they fit in there like butta.
> 
> The Cautious One ( I do love the white Bitspower ones though)


I betcha Snef would know. Snef?


----------



## Tunz

Thanks for the kind words everyone, I appreciate it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Wasn't very interested in your earlier posts about that build, but it came out really awesome in the end, even though I'm bored of the white and red colour scheme.


Haha honestly I wasn't quite sure about it either till it was finished.


----------



## royce5950

I'm not able to find any EK ram modules online in the states right now & I was curious if anyone has any experiences mixing various ram plates / modules with other brand waterblocks?

I'll just possibly give in and buy some dominator ram if I absolutely must but I was thinking the XSPC plates or the bitspower plates juuuust maaaybe might work with the EK block?

I know some may possibly say just to go with a different block in the mean time but nothing beats the precise, beautiful & sharp square design of EKs blocks... dem coolstream rads too...

even the ram modules are sexy lol


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> I'm not able to find any EK ram modules online in the states right now & I was curious if anyone has any experiences mixing various ram plates / modules with other brand waterblocks?
> I'll just possibly give in and buy some dominator ram if I absolutely must but I was thinking the XSPC plates or the bitspower plates juuuust maaaybe might work with the EK block?
> 
> I know some may possibly say just to go with a different block in the mean time but nothing beats the precise, beautiful & sharp square design of EKs blocks... dem coolstream rads too...
> even the ram modules are sexy lol


They are all very much the same. The blocks are designed to fit dominator memory and the universal modules just replicate the dominator side plates so they should all work with each other just fine.

I wouldn't have used any but the EK version though. The others just don't do it for me and if I couldn't have gotten EK I just wouldn't have bothered with it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I am liking that swiftech heatsink less and less. I'm pretty sure I will eventually change it out for the bitspower white sink. Right now the only thing that is keeping me from doing that is having to buy another Caselabs accessory and drill new holes for the new feet.
> 
> 
> 
> I just had a discussion with some one, I think @IT Diva mentioned you would have to mod the bitspower DDC bottom a little bit because of interference with the cables from the DDC possibly being cut? I have only purchased the EK DDC nickle bottoms so far and they fit in there like butta.
> 
> The Cautious One ( I do love the white Bitspower ones though)
Click to expand...

I mentioned that with the 35X in particular, that I found it was too narrow because of the 4th wire.

For a 3 wire DDC, you'll have to check for yourself, since I only use the 35X version.

Below is a pic of silver housings modded for a bit of extra width for the wires, with a white housing that's not been modded yet.

A little extra room there can do no harm, too little room, to where the metal housing cuts into a wire, isn't likely to end well.

Breaking the sharp internal edge where the wires turn 90 degrees to come out is also a good idea for a metal housing.



Darlene


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Will one Watercool MO-RA3 9x140 be enough to cool down i7-4930k @ 4,7 Ghz with 1,3v, 3x r9 290x @ 1000/1250, Asus RIVBE with mosfet and chipset blocks?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Will one Watercool MO-RA3 9x140 be enough to cool down i7-4930k @ 4,7 Ghz with 1,3v, 3x r9 290x @ 1000/1250, Asus RIVBE with mosfet and chipset blocks?


Should be more than adequate.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Will one Watercool MO-RA3 9x140 be enough to cool down i7-4930k @ 4,7 Ghz with 1,3v, 3x r9 290x @ 1000/1250, Asus RIVBE with mosfet and chipset blocks?


The MoRa will cool it easy.

I cool with that Radiator a i7 3930K @ 4,6 and two GTX970 @ 1500/3800 and with only 600rpm the Watertemp will not exceed 26°C...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Should be more than adequate.


That sounds good, then it will be like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> The MoRa will cool it easy.
> 
> I cool with that Radiator a i7 3930K @ 4,6 and two GTX970 @ 1500/3800 and with only 600rpm the Watertemp will not exceed 26°C...


Good, I use 2x MO-RA3 9x140 for my quadfire r9 290x right now, splitting up the cards to two rigs and so with the water cooling then.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I mentioned that with the 35X in particular, that I found it was too narrow because of the 4th wire.
> 
> For a 3 wire DDC, you'll have to check for yourself, since I only use the 35X version.
> 
> Below is a pic of silver housings modded for a bit of extra width for the wires, with a white housing that's not been modded yet.
> 
> A little extra room there can do no harm, too little room, to where the metal housing cuts into a wire, isn't likely to end well.
> 
> Breaking the sharp internal edge where the wires turn 90 degrees to come out is also a good idea for a metal housing.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the images Darlene! So did you have to file it down or something?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I mentioned that with the 35X in particular, that I found it was too narrow because of the 4th wire.
> 
> For a 3 wire DDC, you'll have to check for yourself, since I only use the 35X version.
> 
> Below is a pic of silver housings modded for a bit of extra width for the wires, with a white housing that's not been modded yet.
> 
> A little extra room there can do no harm, too little room, to where the metal housing cuts into a wire, isn't likely to end well.
> 
> Breaking the sharp internal edge where the wires turn 90 degrees to come out is also a good idea for a metal housing.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the images Darlene! So did you have to file it down or something?
Click to expand...

I used my trusty dremel, with a "thin cut" metal disc.

I didn't make it any deeper, just wider at the very bottom where it's narrowest.

I widened it by half the width of the angled part on each side, then cut a chamfer on the inside where the wires turn to exit.

Once the basic mod was dremelled out, I used a small triangular file to dress everything smooth and clean.

*Diva's basic-how to for the Bitspower DDC housing with a 35X pump:*

Here's one just done, on the left, . . . you can see the chamfers to the inside. . . . You can also see in the one being assembled, where I recommend putting a piece of the supplied insulation material between the wires' solder pads and the housing.

It's deliberately left sticking up in the pic so it's easy to see.



Here's one nearly assembled with the thermal pad in place and the second piece of insulation material, which they recommend, placed over the wires connection area to the PCB. Note to, that the insulation material from the pic above, has been pushed down into its proper place below the thermal pad.



Here's a pic of the assembled pump, you can see that if you're careful, it doesn't show from the outside that you've done anything, but that the wires are no longer at risk of getting cut by a sharp metal edge on the housing. . . . . If you're not quite so careful, some Testors model paint and a tiny artist's brush pretty well covers your faux pas.



Second pump almost done, . . . . ready for the cover:



And finally, ready for sleeving:



And a trio of dual 35X's just about ready for prime time in "Diva's Dementia" . . . . .



Darlene


----------



## waveaddict

Are you using the EK anti vib feet on the bottom?
Also,will a Bitspower DDC heatsink fit a EK DDC X-res /3.2 pwm pump res combo?


----------



## Ironsmack

@IT Diva How thick is that thermal pad? 2.0mm?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Are you using the EK anti vib feet on the bottom?
> Also,will a Bitspower DDC heatsink fit a EK DDC X-res /3.2 pwm pump res combo?


Bitspower has them too, and you can also find them in some hardware stores, ebay etc. just make sure you get the right size.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Bitspower has them too, and you can also find them in some hardware stores, ebay etc. just make sure you get the right size.


I know both have M4 threads,so that's not a problem,Really wanted to know if the Bitspower heat sink lines up with the EK DDC x-res
hole pattern.


----------



## Alex132

I just cut a spare anti-vibration fan-mount and used it on my D5 pump's base.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Are you using the EK anti vib feet on the bottom?
> Also,will a Bitspower DDC heatsink fit a EK DDC X-res /3.2 pwm pump res combo?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> @IT Diva How thick is that thermal pad? 2.0mm?


I think all the DDCs share the same footprint, so I would think it would fit.

I like the BP rubber isolators, as they have a male X female format and pricing is pretty reasonable.

M4 stud end screws into the housing, and you can bring screws up from underneath to secure it.

If EK has M4, M X F as well, I didn't notice them when I got the BP ones.

The thermal pad measures at 2mm.

Darlene


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think all the DDCs share the same footprint, so I would think it would fit.
> 
> I like the BP rubber isolators, as they have a male X female format and pricing is pretty reasonable.
> 
> M4 stud end screws into the housing, and you can bring screws up from underneath to secure it.
> 
> If EK has M4, M X F as well, I didn't notice them when I got the BP ones.
> 
> The thermal pad measures at 2mm.
> 
> Darlene


Yah,looks like the Bitspower heat sink will line up with the EK.Although,the EK heatsink comes w/ the anti-vib feet and Bits doesn't but I like the color combo's of the Bits more.
and yes,the EK anti-vib feet are M/F thread studs (M4)


----------



## Alex132

All this trouble with DDC heatsinks and fan attachments.

Glad I never got one









Speaking of D5 cooling, does it actually affect the temperature of the loop? I'd guess it'd be at most like 0.1'c.


----------



## aka13

Surely it depends on the system configuration. It's more like constant heat generated and disposed into the loop, and affterwards you can calculate the temperature delta, when you know how good your system is at dissipating heat.


----------



## CaliLife17

Hello all,

I have run into an issue with my loop. I just finished it, and currently leak testing it. I just turned on my 2 d5 pumps, and one of them is making a pretty nasty noise. I made a video so you can hear the noise. I know which pump is making the noise, it is the pump closest to the camera, so the one not under the reservoir.




I can't tell if it is an air bubble stuck or a defective Pump. I have tried to squeeze the outlet tubing, and I have rocked and tilted the case as much as i can (STH10 with 5 radiators). No luck and still making the sound. It is an aquacomputer D5. The only thing i have left is to install windows and install aquasuite so i can control the pump and see if altering the speed from low to high does anything.

Anyone have any idea what is the causing that sound?


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Sounds like a bad pump, when bubbles get caught in the pump the noise doesn't sound like grinding the way yours does.

Definitely look into getting a replacement ASAP


----------



## Alex132

Mmm, the tone does sound lower than simply air flowing through it.


----------



## emsj86

May sound crazy but at this point I think your try anything but it may be the po but it also could be pieces of alder from the rad or something like that. Specially with all those rads. I'd drain it and open up the pump it sounds like something is hitting the blades of the motor. I may be wrong but it's a suggestion


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> Sounds like a bad pump, when bubbles get caught in the pump the noise doesn't sound like grinding the way yours does.
> 
> Definitely look into getting a replacement ASAP


Man I was afraid of that, really did not want to drain this thing, I just got it all put together. I will go ahead and contact PPCS first, as i just ordered these back on Dec 17th. went though 4 full bottles of Mayhems X1, time to order more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> May sound crazy but at this point I think your try anything but it may be the po but it also could be pieces of alder from the rad or something like that. Specially with all those rads. I'd drain it and open up the pump it sounds like something is hitting the blades of the motor. I may be wrong but it's a suggestion


I did a very thorough flushing of all the rads with boiled tap water then flush with distilled, but you are right it does sound like something is rattling in there. I have to drain it anyways now wether to fix or RMA the pump, so i can take a look when it break it down.

Man, I think i will take a day before i break it down. was so close to having a working deskop for the first time in 3 months.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

For now you should at least disconnect the bad pump, if possible, so it doesn't get worse while you wait.

And tbh, so long as you have a clean container to drain your fluid to, and store it, you shouldn't need to buy a new batch of fluid or dyes.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> For now you should at least disconnect the bad pump, if possible, so it doesn't get worse while you wait.
> 
> And tbh, so long as you have a clean container to drain your fluid to, and store it, you shouldn't need to buy a new batch of fluid or dyes.


Ya I need to finish wiring everything up, and need to install windows, etc, so might do that with just one pump, though worried that might overload this pump.

Ehh the coolant isnt that much money, I don't mind buying more to have the piece of mind. My only complaint is it just another thing i have to wait for and just more time till I finally get this thing done.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its just air in the pump.

Just like these

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OwZM8qSHIk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bffNFg48a8M

And this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=777JcqPVgLU

Listen to the pump at 4 mins and at about 6 mins.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its just air in the pump.
> 
> Just like these
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OwZM8qSHIk
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bffNFg48a8M


If it is just air, how do you suggest I go about getting it out? I have already tried all the methods i could think of so any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Archea47

What's shipping speed from performancepcs like?

I'm looking for cable combs for 6 pin. 8 pin and 24 pin. FCPU is out of lutr0s and I need them by Wednesday (Illinois, USA). I didn't find anything on Amazon with Prime shipping. Performance PCs has some "E22" cable combs - are these worth trying?


----------



## VSG

Yes, Nate's (E22) stuff is top notch from everything I have seen.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## emsj86




----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> What's shipping speed from performancepcs like?
> 
> I'm looking for cable combs for 6 pin. 8 pin and 24 pin. FCPU is out of lutr0s and I need them by Wednesday (Illinois, USA). I didn't find anything on Amazon with Prime shipping. Performance PCs has some "E22" cable combs - are these worth trying?


The differences between Lutro0's Stealth Cable Combs and E22's are that Lutro0's gives a much tighter look but requires putting on the cable before the connector, and your sleeving needs to be nice and tight to get them to fit. E22's Cable Comb's can be slipped on and off the cable with the connectors on it, but has a more spread out appearance. You can see what I mean when you compare them side-by-side.



Spoiler: Lutro0's Stealth (black) and E22 (clear) Cable Combs


----------



## Majentrix

My second ever attempt at a loop. Came out rather nicely I think.
I need to play around with my fan controller and find out what knobs do what so I get this thing running silent.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The differences between Lutro0's Stealth Cable Combs and E22's are that Lutro0's gives a much tighter look but requires putting on the cable before the connector, and your sleeving needs to be nice and tight to get them to fit. E22's Cable Comb's can be slipped on and off the cable with the connectors on it, but has a more spread out appearance. You can see what I mean when you compare them side-by-side.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Lutro0's Stealth (black) and E22 (clear) Cable Combs


Thanks Unicr0nhunter, much appreciated

I went ahead and ordered the E22 smalls (using EVGA cables) + next day + rush, we'll see if they come by Wednesday


----------



## 97discosd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


omg thats sexy af!


----------



## GreedyMuffin

A quick question!

Got my loop finished the day before christmas, very happy with it, ordered the last fans aswell











I have now positive pressure so the rad is a intake aswell, is this a bad idea really?

Cpu temps hit 80¤C with 5820K 4.75Ghz 1.330V.

I want the best performance and when i had a cheap h100i it was alot cooler when it was being used as a intake, any ideas?

Cheers!


----------



## DarthBaggins

@GreedyMuffin double check the block mounting on the chip, make sure in is in and out is out, and you can always rotate the block and test to see if your temps drop







Also what TiM did you use?


----------



## Archea47

Are there another 3 fans on the top of the radiator pushing in our is it just those two on a 360 rad pulling in? Positive pressure is good but you don't want that pressure to push the hot rad air back out through the radiator


----------



## CaliLife17

Well got the RMA approved by PPCS for that D5 making noise. I have tried everything I could to see if it was just trapped air but I have had no luck making the sound go away. So still don't know if it is stuck air or bad pump. Will probably drain my loop soon and take out the pump to send back.

I was so close to finishing this computer.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Are there another 3 fans on the top of the radiator pushing in our is it just those two on a 360 rad pulling in? Positive pressure is good but you don't want that pressure to push the hot rad air back out through the radiator


Only those two atm, ordered the last fan yesterday








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> @GreedyMuffin double check the block mounting on the chip, make sure in is in and out is out, and you can always rotate the block and test to see if your temps drop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also what TiM did you use?


I have tested twice with remounting, first i used a little rise, second a X cross, no difference,

Tried rotating aswell.

Its correct, though i only got 2 fans on the rad atm, may be something there. I used Gelid Extreme Tim that came with the block, used the same tim on my delidded 4770K, working perfectly!

Testet stock settings, 44¤C under gaming load, the chip is gonna freeze to death, lol

The H110 was cooler when used as a intake, rather than exhaust, but this loop is alot cooler than the H110 unit itself, the loop is 15-20¤C colder.

Thank you both and Cheers!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Are there another 3 fans on the top of the radiator pushing in our is it just those two on a 360 rad pulling in? Positive pressure is good but you don't want that pressure to push the hot rad air back out through the radiator


Also you want to set your other case fans on exhaust to pull said hot air out of the case.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Also you want to set your other case fans on exhaust to pull said hot air out of the case.


Gpu temps are normal atleast when folding. Used earlier 2x 780ti`s in a 330R with H110 (same chip) Temps were around 80`s on 4.5Ghz 1.220V

Now those Gpu`s are doomed to fold until they die^^

Temps seems normal, i guess 44¤C stock under load is pretty good!


----------



## emsj86

Piggy back off the op I have 360 and 240 as Intake with a 140 exhaust. As of now I have a 200mm I take up front should I make it exhaust since the 140 and 200 our case fans. I thought it would help with vrm heatsink temps. . So I'm going to do alittle upgrade. Should I go acrylic pump top and nickel heatsink housing with current set up or go pump top, heatsink with acrylic ddc res. upgrade (250 res tube) that mounts to pump top and move bottom rad up front. What our your thoughts ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well TiM is a good and I'd say everything sounds right, might be that there is a small pocket of air somewhere in the loop or you might need a high mmH2O fan setup on your rad. To me your temps should be lower since my 4790k sits comfortably at 65-70c @ 4.6Ghz 1.29vcore (in linux) and even at 4.8 1.388 vcore in windows (same temps), but I have 4 Delta's on one of my rads and BGear's blaster 120's on the upper rad.

Also you need to put a fan on that 3rd core I'm sure you'll see a temp drop


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well TiM is a good and I'd say everything sounds right, might be that there is a small pocket of air somewhere in the loop or you might need a high mmH2O fan setup on your rad. To me your temps should be lower since my 4790k sits comfortably at 65-70c @ 4.6Ghz 1.29vcore (in linux) and even at 4.8 1.388 vcore in windows (same temps), but I have 4 Delta's on one of my rads and BGear's blaster 120's on the upper rad.
> 
> Also you need to put a fan on that 3rd core I'm sure you'll see a temp drop


Running the fans on 50% and the last (third) fan is ordered,

So sounds about right to me atleast, 15Yrs old, first time doing water build







Hehe, i appreciate your help pal!









EDIT: Is 80¤C much for a 24/7 Oc?

I really want that 4.75Ghz oc on 1.330V.

I am doing 4.5Ghz 1.220V atm, its a good Oc on this chip, woud almost say its golden, but 4.5Ghz is so mainstream ^^

EDIT: Stock 44¤C
4.5Ghz 56¤C
4.75Ghz 80¤C

4.5Ghz is my sweetspot!

Thank you!


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have run into an issue with my loop. I just finished it, and currently leak testing it. I just turned on my 2 d5 pumps, and one of them is making a pretty nasty noise. I made a video so you can hear the noise. I know which pump is making the noise, it is the pump closest to the camera, so the one not under the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't tell if it is an air bubble stuck or a defective Pump. I have tried to squeeze the outlet tubing, and I have rocked and tilted the case as much as i can (STH10 with 5 radiators). No luck and still making the sound. It is an aquacomputer D5. The only thing i have left is to install windows and install aquasuite so i can control the pump and see if altering the speed from low to high does anything.
> 
> Anyone have any idea what is the causing that sound?


I had the same kind of noise. I blamed the Bitspower dual D5 top because some user told me that it was a common issue with it, but this is not your case. Nevertheless, It was gone when I changed the loop routing. I suggest you do the same to check if your D5's are still ok.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecuarenta*
> 
> I had the same kind of noise. I blamed the Bitspower dual D5 top because some user told me that it was a common issue with it, but this is not your case. Nevertheless, It was gone when I changed the loop routing. I suggest you do the same to check if your D5's are still ok.


I previously have had that EK dual top on 2x Swiftech Vario D5's and had no issue at all. Only thing that is new in that is the 2 Aquacomputer D5's so I can use the AQ6 XT to control them. So off of that, I would venture to guess it is the pump and not the top. But we will see when I RMA the pump to see if the top could be the issue.


----------



## Nichismo

I think I finally nailed the lighting and detail of taking some pictures with my S5 that I can finally be satisfied and stop taking ridiculous amounts of pictures...

Im sure people are getting sick of seeing the same rig over and over again without anything changing >.<

At this point, the only major thing I really want to upgrade is my pumps... I really feel like a single MCP35x is not enough for each loop. I feel like I could be getting better CPU temps. Not to mention having them right behind the slim 240mm rad for the GPU's is causing alot of hot air being released onto them, and they can get hot to the touch if im not careful. They are also loud under full speed and have a ton of vibration....

Really kicking myself for not getting D5s a long time ago.... I dont want to drop almost 500$ for a couple of them but I have really wanted them for a long time. Much better aesthetics and mounting options, much better power and flow, much less vibration and noise... just everything about them would be better for me at this point.









But aside from the pumps im still going to make a few minor changes/additions. I have to drain and disconnect some of the white CPU and motherboard loop, as the flow is going against the recommended inlet/outlet design on the supremacy. Also, I want to change the last bit of tubing going from the left memory waterblock, to 16mm sized, and have it at a fully vertical route and then a 90 degree turn towards the fitting currently connected to the radiator. I think this will look far better than how I have it now and it will balance it out.

Im also going to buy a couple of Phobya 3" LED stop plugs for the top of each reservoir. I havn't been able to really light up the coolant with the UV led strips I bought, even with 1 placed directly behind the reservoirs, so hopefully this will give me the desired effect.


----------



## aka13

Damn that looks sweet.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Gpu temps are normal atleast when folding. Used earlier 2x 780ti`s in a 330R with H110 (same chip) Temps were around 80`s on 4.5Ghz 1.220V
> Now those Gpu`s are doomed to fold until they die^^


what a waste of 2 great video cards.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> A quick question!
> 
> Got my loop finished the day before christmas, very happy with it, ordered the last fans aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have now positive pressure so the rad is a intake aswell, is this a bad idea really?
> 
> Cpu temps hit 80¤C with 5820K 4.75Ghz 1.330V.
> 
> I want the best performance and when i had a cheap h100i it was alot cooler when it was being used as a intake, any ideas?
> 
> Cheers!


If I'm seeing it correct,looks like your output from your res/pump goes to your CPU.Looks your in/out are backwards on that EVO block.

In is towards the center out is closer to the edge.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> A quick question!
> 
> Got my loop finished the day before christmas, very happy with it, ordered the last fans aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have now positive pressure so the rad is a intake aswell, is this a bad idea really?
> 
> Cpu temps hit 80¤C with 5820K 4.75Ghz 1.330V.
> 
> I want the best performance and when i had a cheap h100i it was alot cooler when it was being used as a intake, any ideas?
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm seeing it correct,looks like your output from your res/pump goes to your CPU.Looks your in/out are backwards on that EVO block.
> 
> In is towards the center out is closer to the edge.
Click to expand...

I suspect he has the flow correct, going from the pump to the rad, then the cpu block, or at least that's what this looks like to me ...

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842645.pdf


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> If I'm seeing it correct,looks like your output from your res/pump goes to your CPU.Looks your in/out are backwards on that EVO block.
> 
> In is towards the center out is closer to the edge.


From pump/res to Cpu, from Cpu to rad, from rad to pump/res?

At my local forum thay said this was ok?

Cheers!









EDIT: Is 80¤C hot for a cpu under load?

4.75Ghz 1.325V

Currently using 4.5Ghz 1.220V, max temp 59¤C, a smarter choise?

What woud you guys use for a daily basis?

Flow is correct i belive(?)


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> From pump/res to Cpu, from Cpu to rad, from rad to pump/res?
> 
> At my local forum thay said this was ok?
> 
> Cheers!


Well then as Unicr0nhunter illustarated,you have it backwards my friend.Swap your in/out on your res/pump.as well as your CPU.

My bad,Unicr0nhunter is correct on your loop.res/pump>rad>cpu>res


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> what a waste of 2 great video cards.


What is that suppose to mean?


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Well then as Unicr0nhunter illustarated,you have it backwards my friend.Swap your in/out on your res/pump.


Does this affect anything?
Do i need to drain my loop and fix it?


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What is that suppose to mean?


2x 780Ti i have (one is mine, one is my fathers) are folding, my card is folding 24/7 and my the other card is folding close to it,

I do it for science!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Well then as Unicr0nhunter illustarated,you have it backwards my friend.Swap your in/out on your res/pump.


Nooo! As I illustrated, the flow looks to be correct and GreedyMuffin needn't change anything. Might want to have another look at what I wrote and the link / image I posted.

Unless I'm mistaken, the loop goes pump > rad > cpu > pump, and the cpu block orientation looks to be correct.

edit:


Spoiler: Looks ok to me. No?


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Nooo! As I illustrated, the flow looks to be correct and GreedyMuffin needn't change anything. Might want to have another look at what I wrote and the link / image I posted.
> 
> Unless I'm mistaken, the loop goes pump > rad > cpu > pump, and the cpu block orientation looks to be correct.


That`s correct! ehh, started to get nervous, dont want to drain it









A rep for you sir!










Hehe


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> 2x 780Ti i have (one is mine, one is my fathers) are folding, my card is folding 24/7 and my the other card is folding close to it,
> 
> I do it for science!


I was referring to him saying it is a waste of two great cards. It isn't a waste. It is more important than gaming IMO.

I recently 'upgraded' my GTX780Ti to a GTX980. Went from 280K PPD to 80K PPD.









But on the extremely rare occurrence when I can get a core 17 WU I go from 80K to 400K.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I was referring to him saying it is a waste of two great cards. It isn't a waste. It is more important than gaming IMO.
> 
> I recently 'upgraded' my GTX780Ti to a GTX980. Went from 280K PPD to 80K PPD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But on the extremely rare occurrence when I can get a core 17 WU I go from 80K to 400K.


Yeah, Stanford is now blocking core 18 on 900series card, so we get the normal ppd again!

I am 15 so i got a bit sponsored from a folder called ``war`` worked for him, that way i did afford my X99 upgrade, he gets 11mill PPD avg









Hehe









I have around 600K avg, not bad tho!


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Nooo! As I illustrated, the flow looks to be correct and GreedyMuffin needn't change anything. Might want to have another look at what I wrote and the link / image I posted.
> 
> Unless I'm mistaken, the loop goes pump > rad > cpu > pump, and the cpu block orientation looks to be correct.


My bad,Unicr0nhunter is correct on your loop.res/pump>rad>cpu>res.Got confused,your good on your loop order.Thanks @Unicr0nhunter


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> My bad,Unicr0nhunter is correct on your loop.res/pump>rad>cpu>res.Got confused,your good on your loop order.Thanks @Unicr0nhunter


Then i can relax and start folding again


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Then i can relax and start folding again


Yah,sorry for the confusion bro.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Yah,sorry for the confusion bro.


No problems buddy!


----------



## thatsboot3101

Can I join the club??


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thatsboot3101*
> 
> Can I join the club??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You're In









Welcome. Hope you've got some cash in your wallet. It just keeps getting better from here

The Cautious One


----------



## thatsboot3101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You're In
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome. Hope you've got some cash in your wallet. It just keeps getting better from here
> 
> The Cautious One


If there's one thing I'm good at it's blowing money on things I don't really need. I think I'll fit in pretty well.


----------



## 66racer

Here is my official submission to the club







Never really felt like my modded h70 was worthy lol


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Here is my official submission to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never really felt like my modded h70 was worthy lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome
I have to ask is that a single 180mm (200?) rad setup


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Looks awesome
> I have to ask is that a single 180mm (200?) rad setup


Thanks, its a single 180mm. Sometimes I think I should have gone with a 200mm since there are more fan choices but my setup works well in the tj08-e.


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have run into an issue with my loop. I just finished it, and currently leak testing it. I just turned on my 2 d5 pumps, and one of them is making a pretty nasty noise. I made a video so you can hear the noise. I know which pump is making the noise, it is the pump closest to the camera, so the one not under the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't tell if it is an air bubble stuck or a defective Pump. I have tried to squeeze the outlet tubing, and I have rocked and tilted the case as much as i can (STH10 with 5 radiators). No luck and still making the sound. It is an aquacomputer D5. The only thing i have left is to install windows and install aquasuite so i can control the pump and see if altering the speed from low to high does anything.
> 
> Anyone have any idea what is the causing that sound?


if you have tried everything including flipping your case upside down while pumping, to get any last bubbles out of the pump, you may be experiencing cavitation.

https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHMO_en-GBCA576CA576&ion=1&espv=2&es_th=1&ie=UTF-8#sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&es_th=1&ie=UTF-8&q=cavitation%2Bin%2Bpumps&pws=0

basically your pump is having a harder time pulling the fluid into the pump than it is pushing it out of the pump, creating too much vacuum behind the pump, causing cavitation.
you can tell if your pump has been cavitating by looking at the impeller. it will have pitting marks from the micro bubble explosions.


----------



## emsj86

@calife17 what I see you have both heatsink housings which one do you like better bitspower or ek I'm in the market


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Looks awesome
> I have to ask is that a single 180mm (200?) rad setup


Considering his GPU is hybrid air/water cooled, it's probably sufficient.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Considering his GPU is hybrid air/water cooled, it's probably sufficient.


Its a cpu only loop. It is an asus card but only the regular cooler.

I did put both on water (gpu on ek universal cooler) on a test bench using the single 180mm and temps were not bad but the single 240mm from the h220 with corsair sp120pe pwm on 100% cooled a few degrees better. Obviously both setups were pushing the limits of each radiator used but kinda proved to me that it was an improvement over air; just at the cost of the sound advantage of water. using the cpu only on the 180mm I have both 180mm fans on low and have great temps.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Its a cpu only loop. It is an asus card but only the regular cooler.
> 
> I did put both on water (gpu on ek universal cooler) on a test bench using the single 180mm and temps were not bad but the single 240mm from the h220 with corsair sp120pe pwm on 100% cooled a few degrees better. Obviously both setups were pushing the limits of each radiator used but kinda proved to me that it was an improvement over air; just at the cost of the sound advantage of water. using the cpu only on the 180mm I have both 180mm fans on low and have great temps.


Ah my bad. It looked like the angled fitting going into the res was going into the videocard.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> if you have tried everything including flipping your case upside down while pumping, to get any last bubbles out of the pump, you may be experiencing cavitation.
> 
> https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHMO_en-GBCA576CA576&ion=1&espv=2&es_th=1&ie=UTF-8#sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&es_th=1&ie=UTF-8&q=cavitation%2Bin%2Bpumps&pws=0
> 
> basically your pump is having a harder time pulling the fluid into the pump than it is pushing it out of the pump, creating too much vacuum behind the pump, causing cavitation.
> you can tell if your pump has been cavitating by looking at the impeller. it will have pitting marks from the micro bubble explosions.


An STH10 with 5 radiator is both big and heavy, I don't know if I can safely flip the entire case upside. Plus if I flip it upside down and run the pump the air gap in my res will be were the pump intake would be so it would run dry which I was always told is a no no.

I would think it is cavitation as I don't think my loop is very restrictive compared to so other people. But I will look for it when I break it down.


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> An STH10 with 5 radiator is both big and heavy, I don't know if I can safely flip the entire case upside. Plus if I flip it upside down and run the pump the air gap in my res will be were the pump intake would be so it would run dry which I was always told is a no no.
> 
> I would think it is cavitation as I don't think my loop is very restrictive compared to so other people. But I will look for it when I break it down.


when bleeding air from my system, i have to rotate the case at least to 90 degrees onto its front. sometimes i do have to flip it completely. there is always an angle or two you have to carefully avoid so, as you stated you dont pull air back into your pump.

this too can be almost completely avoided if you fill your reservoir removing all air. your pump cant suck air that isnt there. and as you flip your case, if more air is released it is very noticeable in your reservoir. hey that bubble wasnt there a minute ago


----------



## Jakewat

I'm going on holiday for about 10 days and am currently running straight distilled in my temporary loop, no biocides or kill coils, and I am wondering should I drain my loop before I got away or will it be alright for that amount of time? The system will be in a dark place with 20-25 degree room temps. It's a hassle to have to drain but I will do it if it is really necessary.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you drain it make sure to pull and empty your blocks. When I got back to my system I had reurned to find algae growth in my CPU block. Granted, i was gone ALOT longer than 10 days, but mine was in a dark room and it still happened.









~Ceadder


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I'm going on holiday for about 10 days and am currently running straight distilled in my temporary loop, no biocides or kill coils, and I am wondering should I drain my loop before I got away or will it be alright for that amount of time? The system will be in a dark place with 20-25 degree room temps. It's a hassle to have to drain but I will do it if it is really necessary.


I've never had algae or any growths in my loops, not even once. Switched from a kill coil to Liquid Utopia and it's been working like a charm ever since. I highly recommend you get something, but do you have someone who could check on the loop for you? I wouldn't be concerned about it personally.

-Zepp


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Ah my bad. It looked like the angled fitting going into the res was going into the videocard.


No worries, I can see how it looked that way at a glance








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I'm going on holiday for about 10 days and am currently running straight distilled in my temporary loop, no biocides or kill coils, and I am wondering should I drain my loop before I got away or will it be alright for that amount of time? The system will be in a dark place with 20-25 degree room temps. It's a hassle to have to drain but I will do it if it is really necessary.


If it were me I wouldn't drain it for only 10days in the condition you mentioned. I googled it and found a pool related article that stated in a warm sunny environment it can bloom overnight.....none of those conditions are yours. Hope someone else can add to the conversation but I personally wouldn't worry for 10 days you mention.

http://www.poolcenter.com/algae


----------



## electro2u

That's about as long as I'd be comfortable leaving it with no biocides. 10 days... pretty ballsy. I think it might actually be worse to drain it and leave the parts (especially the radiators) with little bits of water in them. You know how hard it is to completely dry a radiator. You have to put them in an oven basically. The blocks you have to take apart... It's much better to just drain it and flush and refill all at once. Leaving parts out is problematic for me.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I'm going on holiday for about 10 days and am currently running straight distilled in my temporary loop, no biocides or kill coils, and I am wondering should I drain my loop before I got away or will it be alright for that amount of time? The system will be in a dark place with 20-25 degree room temps. It's a hassle to have to drain but I will do it if it is really necessary.


If I was using mud id be worried about 10 days but with distilled you would be fine for a lot longer than that imo.


----------



## Archea47

I go 10 days regularly and have never seen a hint of algae in my loop

I run distilled + a little bit of propylene glycol


----------



## fleetfeather

The single pump x2o 420 and twin pump x2o 420 interest me greatly. I don't suppose anyone's got their hands on the single pump version yet , have they?

(Single pump version has been available for a couple of weeks now. Twin pump version was released 2-3 hours ago)

http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-420-single-bayrespump
http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/twin-x2o-420-single-bayrespump


----------



## morencyam

I'm pretty sure @wermad only runs distilled without biocide and hasn't ever had a problem


----------



## Gleniu

I've made some progress on my build last night.


----------



## Domiro

Are there any low profile adapters smaller than the BP C39 ?

I've got 13mm of space from the rad's port to the fan; it's meant to be for a drain.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Are there any low profile adapters smaller than the BP C39 ?
> 
> I've got 13mm of space from the rad's port to the fan; it's meant to be for a drain.


Not that I am aware of and I research that thoroughly recently. The c39 have 18 or 19 mm. All other 90 degrees are larger. Another small one is the koolance but even those are larger that the c39.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13914/koo-307/Koolance_90_Degree_Low_Profile_Rotary_Elbow_-_Single_-_Black_NZL-LXG2-BK.html?tl=g30c101s1306#blank

notice that is 17 mm but with the cap above is even larger that the 18 mm of c39. The regular 90 degrees from koolance is around 23 mm if memory serves...


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


wow, for my next personal build i was thinking of using that mobo, and I think that you have just sold me on it!

Beautiful work


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not that I am aware of and I research that thoroughly recently. The c39 have 18 or 19 mm. All other 90 degrees are larger. Another small one is the koolance but even those are larger that the c39.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13914/koo-307/Koolance_90_Degree_Low_Profile_Rotary_Elbow_-_Single_-_Black_NZL-LXG2-BK.html?tl=g30c101s1306#blank
> 
> notice that is 17 mm but with the cap above is even larger that the 18 mm of c39. The regular 90 degrees from koolance is around 23 mm if memory serves...


Eh, means i'm 5mm short of space. I'll think of something else. Thanks anyway!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Eh, means i'm 5mm short of space. I'll think of something else. Thanks anyway!



+

+

=
Hidden temperamental drain that swings out. Use a screw driver to tighten the Koolance low profile 90 degree rotary adapter


----------



## GreedyMuffin

For you that have seen my picture, i will drain it and add a 980 G1 wb that will come this month.

Q:1 I need to buy 2 more fittings, so where shoud i add them. shoud i add a 90¤ on cpu block? Need help with plannig









Q:2 How will a 980 affect my loop at stock and overclocked?

Hope someone will take the time to help me and respond, Thank you, Cheers!


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hidden temperamental drain that swings out. Use a screw driver to tighten the Koolance low profile 90 degree rotary adapter


It's a 480 UT60 in a Phanteks Primo. The drain was meant to go in the front. But with only a little space for a rotary, chances are the rotary would be hit by the intake's blades. I could check if I can use stand-offs on the fan(s). Unless that interferes with closing the front. In that case I'll use one of the other ports on the UT60


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> I've made some progress on my build last night.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Gez beautiful shots...would be interesting to see the "behind the scene" on them


----------



## Willi

Guys, regarding the Bitspower X2o, does anyone have any performance figures yet?
I'm currently using the D5 dual bay res and I wonder if it would be worth switching to a more compact form factor.
I've also considered switching to the Aquacomputer Aqualis D5 kit but I'm not sure if I should.

My XSPC bayres has a tiny little crack on the acrylic window due to me overtightening a screw when I was cleaning, and depending on the speed I leave the pump in, it sucks in a little bit of air. On speed 2 it's not a worry though, but above 3, it start to suck bubbles in. I was wondering if I should fix it or simply switch to another res and redo some of the loop's bends.


----------



## electro2u

Well the crack is almost certain repairable with polymer or whatever, but that X420 seems like it would be quiet and decent. The 750 is a little on the weak side, but this is 2 of them. The v4 hasn't been dying on people left and right but they aren't exactly super popular either.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> It's a 480 UT60 in a Phanteks Primo. The drain was meant to go in the front. But with only a little space for a rotary, chances are the rotary would be hit by the intake's blades. I could check if I can use stand-offs on the fan(s). Unless that interferes with closing the front. In that case I'll use one of the other ports on the UT60


Ah got it. I have the primo and a 280 UT60 on the bottom. I use the support which gives enough clearance to make a 90 degrees turn and place the drain on the facing down port of the UT60. Can you raise the 480 mm rad to attain the same effect?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Guys, regarding the Bitspower X2o, does anyone have any performance figures yet?
> I'm currently using the D5 dual bay res and I wonder if it would be worth switching to a more compact form factor.
> I've also considered switching to the Aquacomputer Aqualis D5 kit but I'm not sure if I should.
> 
> My XSPC bayres has a tiny little crack on the acrylic window due to me overtightening a screw when I was cleaning, and depending on the speed I leave the pump in, it sucks in a little bit of air. On speed 2 it's not a worry though, but above 3, it start to suck bubbles in. I was wondering if I should fix it or simply switch to another res and redo some of the loop's bends.


Not aware of any review of those xspc reservoir/pump combos mate. Only for the older versions. In regard to the Aquacomputer is a bit on the underperform side of things in terms of d5 tops but on the other hand you will get a really well made reservoir/pump top.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/08/09/single-d5-pump-tops-roundup/


----------



## Willi

@Gabrielzm and @electro2u

thanks for the help. Fixing acrylic with polymer sounds a little complicated. Are there any tutorials for that? Also, where I live it might be a bit hard to get the polymer needed for acrylic repair. Is acrylic glue or "super bonder" good enough or I might end up damaging my res if I use it?

Also, thanks alot for the roundup, it is really helpful.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

edit:

Oops, wrong thread. My bad.


----------



## Ithanul

Well, fired up the pump. Now the joy of bleeding the air out.









Dang, the D5 pumps are no joke. Definitely a upgrade from that old Rasa 750 kit I had.




Not bad for my first go at acrylic. Second time doing a water cooling setup too.


----------



## snef

Leak test

90% of cables are done


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 90% of cables are done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking great









And what is that molex connector going to be used for?


----------



## snef

loll the molex connector is for the pump, i run it in front for filling the loop but it will be on back and have a 6 pin connector instead to connect direct on PSU


----------



## electro2u

Ya I don't like the whole green wire psu trick because I'm always spilling something while filling or springing 5 leaks at once so I use a little 12v molex power adapter off a power strip with a switch. Works nicely. =)


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Leak test
> 
> 90% of cables are done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










amazing....what case is that? Or is it a one off?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> amazing....what case is that? Or is it a one off?


Hex-Gear R40. New casemaker on the market. Remember p0pe? The guy who machined his own waterways and made probably the most watercooling porn video ever created? He and someone else (forgot their name) decided to design a case. And that is the quite a sexy thing it turned into.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Hex-Gear R40. New casemaker on the market. Remember p0pe? The guy who machined his own waterways and made probably the most watercooling porn video ever created? He and someone else (forgot their name) decided to design a case. And that is the quite a sexy thing it turned into.


It is indeed and an amazing job as always @Snef. The effect of both rads been under the hood so to speak is great. It is almost like the rads are not there. So I take only 30 mm rads can be used? In any case is a lot of punch for a small case: 5x 120 mm rad area. I like it.

http://www.hex-gear.com/shop/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Leak test
> 
> 90% of cables are done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> amazing....what case is that? Or is it a one off?
Click to expand...

I love the look of it but it really could be so much more. Even though it's hard to perfect perfection. I guess the stuff I'd like to see is more or less my OCD stuffs.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## anti-clockwize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKULLTRA1L*
> 
> HOLY CRAP! This is awesome dude!


Yeah, that looks sick, nice feature to the living room.


----------



## aka13

THat's some state of art work. Looks absolutely fascinating. Especially the cables.


----------



## Nichismo

No offense, but I just dont understand the preoccupation with white.

When theres so much of it, I feel like it takes away from certain noteworthy features that speak for themselves already. Like the fittings for example, the white makes them look like plastic and lower quality, despite them being the most premium choice on the market. If im not mistaken, the white, red and matte black fittings are more expensive than normal too.

otherwise, everything else as usual is absolutely superb


----------



## fleetfeather

Yeah, stuff white themed builds... Gonna go build a Red and Black themed build like 95% of other people


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Yeah, stuff white themed builds... Gonna go build a Red and Black themed build like 95% of other people


notsureifsrs.jpg

i can understand the preoccupation with black and red. Because it looks badass and also works universally with several themes. Not to mention ROG motherboards are among the best consistently and are red and black as well.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> notsureifsrs.jpg
> 
> i can understand the preoccupation with black and red. Because it looks badass and also works universally with several themes. Not to mention ROG motherboards are among the best consistently and are red and black as well.


So white isnt ok because it looks cheap and plastic looking but black and red is fine (even when so common) because its "badass"? Thats totally just a matter of personal preference man.

Personally i LOVE the white look. I think it makes things look sleek, smooth, gorgeous, beautiful and modern/futuristic (if you cant tell i cant say enough good about white hehe, almost went white on the case but rethought it and went with white tubing instead). I'm in the process of a build right now which will be in my black phanteks primo case with white tubing and probably black fittings (havnt decided yet) and blue lighting to really give it a modern and/or futuristic feel and smooth the black and white together.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> So white isnt ok because it looks cheap and plastic looking but black and red is fine (even when so common) because its "badass"? Thats totally just a matter of personal preference man.
> 
> Personally i LOVE the white look. I think it makes things look sleek, smooth, gorgeous, beautiful and modern/futuristic (if you cant tell i cant say enough good about white hehe, almost went white on the case but rethought it and went with white tubing instead). I'm in the process of a build right now which will be in my black phanteks primo case with white tubing and probably black fittings (havnt decided yet) and blue lighting to really give it a modern and/or futuristic feel and smooth the black and white together.


I like white aswell, i find it modern and just nice^^

though, i cant wait to get my Gpu under water, blue led is making it worse^^

Looking forwards to see your build, sounds awesome


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> So white isnt ok because it looks cheap and plastic looking but black and red is fine (even when so common) because its "badass"? Thats totally just a matter of personal preference man.
> 
> Personally i LOVE the white look. I think it makes things look sleek, smooth, gorgeous, beautiful and modern/futuristic (if you cant tell i cant say enough good about white hehe, almost went white on the case but rethought it and went with white tubing instead). I'm in the process of a build right now which will be in my black phanteks primo case with white tubing and probably black fittings (havnt decided yet) and blue lighting to really give it a modern and/or futuristic feel and smooth the black and white together.


Uh no, I wasn't referring to or trying to single out white alone....

and I only used black and red as an example, I didnt support it in any way. I said _I could understand the preoccupation with it_, whereas I cant with white. Besides, black and red is two colors, whereas white is one. that would be the difference of a build thats 50/50 black and red vs 100% white.

I was semi srs....Obviously Badass is never a term to be utilized in describing a subjective observation or critique.... So your quotations around badass are not needed... but im sure you knew this, and you moreso used them as an aspersion of some sort..... If you want to look at my builds youll see ive never done a single red and black build. But even if I wanted to, I certainly wouldnt even be remotely swayed by the fact that many people do them and therefore I should pick a different color theme. I seem to see more people now complaining about red and black builds than the builds themselves... or perhaps I simply dont notice such things and am more fixated on noticing good builds when I see them.....

I guess youve never owned an ROG motherboard then?

if you would care to elaborate, what makes white colored fittings look so sleek and smooth, and particularly futuristic as opposed to the Black sparkle or chrome, or typically "colored" fittings? Id agree in a certain sense, but certainly not when nearly every other thing around it is white too. I commend Bitspower for providing such a tremendous spectrum of items in the fittings department, and such you dont see any other companies providing white fittings. Like I said, they are more expensive too. 15 dollars for each single rotary 90 degree fitting, almost 50% more than the standard colors!

if I had to sum up my aesthetic preferences or goals when it comes to building a PC, I feel like if a similar color or consistency wouldnt look good on a car, then it wouldnt be done in such a way on my PC. I wouldnt have a white car, with almost all parts in the engine bay white, white wheels and with white seats and dash with just a few accents of another color here and there.... its just overpowering. For me, I would accentuate certain parts by perpetuating their noteworthy features, like Armor and shine all the leather and rubber like the interior and the tires. Then sanding and polishing the steel and chrome mechanical parts. Each area takes its own special treatment and prescription for bringing it to life. This is more logical to me then simply applying a certain color to anything and everything just because you really love that particular color (and technically white isnt even a color in that regard)

*sigh*

(saying no offense before a statement seems to end up doing more damage than the same exact statement would have without it)


----------



## fakeblood

^ I agree with this. Far too much white, everything just disappears and all I see is the blue. I think a black mobo tray or even the mobo itself in black would look good if not just to break up all that white.

But each to their own and what not.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> if you would care to elaborate, what makes white colored fittings look so sleek and smooth, and particularly futuristic...


I didnt bother reading your ramblings and judgements but ill just answer this: Because that is how i feel about it just as your tastes are your preference. Good? Okie Dokie


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Uh no, I wasn't referring to or trying to single out white alone....
> 
> and I only used black and red as an example, I didnt support it in any way. I said _I could understand the preoccupation with it_, whereas I cant with white. Besides, black and red is two colors, whereas white is one. that would be the difference of a build thats 50/50 black and red vs 100% white.
> 
> I was semi srs....Obviously Badass is never a term to be utilized in describing a subjective observation or critique.... So your quotations around badass are not needed... but im sure you knew this, and you moreso used them as an aspersion of some sort..... If you want to look at my builds youll see ive never done a single red and black build. But even if I wanted to, I certainly wouldnt even be remotely swayed by the fact that many people do them and therefore I should pick a different color theme. I seem to see more people now complaining about red and black builds than the builds themselves... or perhaps I simply dont notice such things and am more fixated on noticing good builds when I see them.....
> 
> I guess youve never owned an ROG motherboard then?
> 
> if you would care to elaborate, what makes white colored fittings look so sleek and smooth, and particularly futuristic as opposed to the Black sparkle or chrome, or typically "colored" fittings? Id agree in a certain sense, but certainly not when nearly every other thing around it is white too. I commend Bitspower for providing such a tremendous spectrum of items in the fittings department, and such you dont see any other companies providing white fittings. Like I said, they are more expensive too. 15 dollars for each single rotary 90 degree fitting, almost 50% more than the standard colors!
> 
> if I had to sum up my aesthetic preferences or goals when it comes to building a PC, I feel like if a similar color or consistency wouldnt look good on a car, then it wouldnt be done in such a way on my PC. I wouldnt have a white car, with almost all parts in the engine bay white, white wheels and with white seats and dash with just a few accents of another color here and there.... its just overpowering. For me, I would accentuate certain parts by perpetuating their noteworthy features, like Armor and shine all the leather and rubber like the interior and the tires. Then sanding and polishing the steel and chrome mechanical parts. Each area takes its own special treatment and prescription for bringing it to life. This is more logical to me then simply applying a certain color to anything and everything just because you really love that particular color (and technically white isnt even a color in that regard)
> 
> *sigh*
> 
> (saying no offense before a statement seems to end up doing more damage than the same exact statement would have without it)


We Got it.

THe Cautious One


----------



## catbuster

Snef build has perfect color balance if u cant see it its just u


----------



## DarthBaggins

Snef's cable routing is just perfect, and loves that Blue and White







lol


----------



## GreedyMuffin

A Question,

After doing some cable stuff in my build, i see some black marks maybe 2mm from the nippel, i know thats the nippel, but the tube was 100% secured, and it glided a bit out it seems, do i need to worry?

And how to drain a loop with no drainport?

You have seen my picture, so if i want to drain it, how to?









Thank you!

Cheers!


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Pretty sure there is a reason Snef's builds get more attention than anything done by Nichismo, or most other's, for that matter, and I highly doubt any one needs it outlined why that is.


----------



## DarthBaggins

what kind of barbs are you using, that could explain the tubing moving if you didn't use any clamps to secure the tubing. I didn't use many on my C70 build just due to the design of the barbs and the pair of compressions I used in it (the barbed fittings had two levels of barbs to ensure a proper fit and are a pain to remove tubing from)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I must admit,I was expecting more from you snef,that looks the same as every other build you have done....

You need to start stretching yourself rather than produce identi-rigs all the time.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Blue & White is almost Snef's trademark colors lol


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> what kind of barbs are you using, that could explain the tubing moving if you didn't use any clamps to secure the tubing. I didn't use many on my C70 build just due to the design of the barbs and the pair of compressions I used in it (the barbed fittings had two levels of barbs to ensure a proper fit and are a pain to remove tubing from)


Its bitspower comp. fittings. the normal size, 1/2, 3/4


----------



## DarthBaggins

that's odd for a tube to move out of a good compression fitting as long as you're using 1/2id 3/4od it shouldn't have "slipped". I'd keep an eye on it over time, but as long as there are no leaks and no signs of air bleeding into the loop from said fittings I wouldn't worry really.


----------



## snef

@Nichismo

everyone have their own taste and i respect that a lot

what i like about 2 color theme (or 3 like Icy Blue Angel II, white, blue and silver)
because its clean and insdustrial look

im not a fan of Black case specially with dark coolant, i think everything is lost in the dark, look at my "Extremmme red demon build"
but not white where everything is clear and visible
a black case with a light color accent is nice but i like more white

the major goal is create a point of interest to something and try to put in background usual parts

your analogy with car color is right but not at 100%

under the hood, interior and exterior is 3 different thing and 3 different area designed by 3 diferent poeple

under the hood are not designed to be atractive first

if you find me a nice modern car with an exterior with more than 3 color and beautiful......

for interior, designer play more with texture and materials than color theme

im really not a fan of multiple color coolant in one rig, 2 color case and multicolor led light everywhere
and these with cable sleeving in another color

everyone have their own taste


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> that's odd for a tube to move out of a good compression fitting as long as you're using 1/2id 3/4od it shouldn't have "slipped". I'd keep an eye on it over time, but as long as there are no leaks and no signs of air bleeding into the loop from said fittings I wouldn't worry really.


there aren`t (Yet atleast) will continue checking it, tho i check it everyday, or atleast when i am with my Pc.

ofc using the same size tube, Primoflex white tube^^

Thank you,

Since i am a nice guy, Rep!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> A Question,
> 
> After doing some cable stuff in my build, i see some black marks maybe 2mm from the nippel, i know thats the nippel, but the tube was 100% secured, and it glided a bit out it seems, do i need to worry?
> 
> And how to drain a loop with no drainport?
> 
> You have seen my picture, so if i want to drain it, how to?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Cheers!


Before I had a drain valve what worked well for me was the large syringe that they sell and than vinyal tubing from Home Depot. Stick it in the res. and pump it out. You have to do some tilting but it works. That or I've seen a syphon pump that any auto ace sells used in a similar way to pump out from the reservior


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Before I had a drain valve what worked well for me was the large syringe that they sell and than vinyal tubing from Home Depot. Stick it in the res. and pump it out. You have to do some tilting but it works. That or I've seen a syphon pump that any auto ace sells used in a similar way to pump out from the reservior


Woud you link me a kind of that? unsure how to find one, but sounds great!

Rep for you aswell!


----------



## emsj86

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19675/ex-tub-1808/PrimoChill_Liquid_Cooling_Fill_Syringe_w_Cap_-_60_mL_SYR-66.html?tl=g30c101s1206&id=VpTIRM46&mv_pc=3917 Or http://m.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html First is the syringe second is a syphon pump. As for vinyal tube anything from a hardware store that can fit over it can work. I used a smallest size I could because it allowed me to fit it I tk the reservior. Here is alittle link to a video where I use the syringe in the beginning. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e4bf1yWRzMY


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19675/ex-tub-1808/PrimoChill_Liquid_Cooling_Fill_Syringe_w_Cap_-_60_mL_SYR-66.html?tl=g30c101s1206&id=VpTIRM46&mv_pc=3917 Or http://m.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19675/ex-tub-1808/PrimoChill_Liquid_Cooling_Fill_Syringe_w_Cap_-_60_mL_SYR-66.html?tl=g30c101s1206&id=VpTIRM46&mv_pc=3917 Or http://m.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html


Awesome!

Thank you!









EDIT: subbed aswell!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I must admit,I was expecting more from you snef,that looks the same as every other build you have done....
> 
> You need to start stretching yourself rather than produce identi-rigs all the time.


i know @B NEGATIVE, you reapeat this at every build i did

last time you talk about cable sleeving, its just a thing who we can be proud instead to go with ensourced or Lutro

i think i did it better in this one

for sure if i have someone to do my acylic job, maybe able to make a special res to all my build, but sure you will finally say the same thing

and dont forget, i have no sponsor, everything came out of my pocket, i paid for every single screew, i know your are the best to undestand how much these type of build with attention every little detail can cost

maybe you said that without a second thought and you want streching myself

but the fact , i love it like that and first my wife want it like that

call me a builder instead of modder if you want, im happy with that


----------



## electro2u

As soon as tubing is being bent and sleeving starts being done, it's a mod, that's my opinion. Yes, anyone can do these things (I know because if I can do them, anyone can), but Snefs photos make it clear he does them at a level very few people could ever achieve. The photos themselves are fantastically done, and it's what ultimately drives the thread--photos of WC builds.


----------



## SinatraFan

Snef,

Keep doing it YOUR WAY. My guess is that many here would love to have one of your builds on their desk. I, for one, love your craftsmanship. Is there a bit of commonality to your builds, maybe. But, I consider that more YOUR STYLE, and a good one at that.

Cheers


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Snef,
> 
> Keep doing it YOUR WAY. My guess is that many here would love to have one of your builds on their desk. I, for one, love your craftsmanship. Is there a bit of commonality to your builds, maybe. But, I consider that more YOUR STYLE, and a good one at that.
> 
> Cheers


This^


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I must admit,I was expecting more from you snef,that looks the same as every other build you have done....
> 
> You need to start stretching yourself rather than produce identi-rigs all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> i know @B NEGATIVE, you reapeat this at every build i did
> 
> last time you talk about cable sleeving, its just a thing who we can be proud instead to go with ensourced or Lutro
> 
> i think i did it better in this one
> 
> for sure if i have someone to do my acylic job, maybe able to make a special res to all my build, but sure you will finally say the same thing
> 
> and dont forget, i have no sponsor, everything came out of my pocket, i paid for every single screew, i know your are the best to undestand how much these type of build with attention every little detail can cost
> 
> maybe you said that without a second thought and you want streching myself
> 
> but the fact , i love it like that and first my wife want it like that
> 
> call me a builder instead of modder if you want, im happy with that
Click to expand...

Not true,I said it about your last and this one.

Am I wrong tho? No.

Could you push yourself to a higher level? Yes.

Why do you take this constructive comment so badly? Its not about money or sponsors,its about ability..which you have,so why not take it a bit further?

This is not about being a 'modder' or a 'builder',its about growing your skill set and enhancing your eye for the aesthetic. If you dont want the gentle push forward then thats fine with me,I wont be putting you forward when asked about and we can leave it there,I wont comment on your future builds if this upsets you.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Leak test
> 
> 90% of cables are done
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why do people use hardline tubing with 90 degree fittings? why not just bend the tube? It makes no sense to me tbh might as well use soft tubing with a few hard line ones thrown in to reduce costs etc.
I just don't understand why you wouldn't bend it? Can someone clarify?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,I said it about your last and this one.
> 
> Am I wrong tho? No.
> 
> Could you push yourself to a higher level? Yes.
> 
> Why do you take this constructive comment so badly? Its not about money or sponsors,its about ability..which you have,so why not take it a bit further?
> 
> This is not about being a 'modder' or a 'builder',its about growing your skill set and enhancing your eye for the aesthetic. If you dont want the gentle push forward then thats fine with me,I wont be putting you forward when asked about and we can leave it there,I wont comment on your future builds if this upsets you.


To be honest mate, the way you came across is a bit wrong for "gentle" pushing... I have to have group critiques etc in what I want to become and depending on how the critisism comes across depends on how well I take it. If you said that to me, it just sounds like you're being an ass. You might not see it that way and you're highly respected (even by me your builds are pretty damn epic) but the way you comment sometimes can be easily misinterpreted. (No offense intended just sitting on the fence here)

I understand where you're coming from, and you're just trying to help a fellow modder out but dang man, you catch more bees with honey.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why do people use hardline tubing with 90 degree fittings? why not just bend the tube? It makes no sense to me tbh might as well use soft tubing with a few hard line ones thrown in to reduce costs etc.
> I just don't understand why you wouldn't bend it? Can someone clarify?


Personal preference. Some like the look of bent tubing and some like the look of the 90 degree fittings. Same could be asked of colored coolant with clear tubing vs colored tubing, just personal preference.

Personally, I agree with you. I like the look of bent hardline better than using the fittings, and if I ever do a hardline build, I'll be bending my tubing. But, to each their own.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why do people use hardline tubing with 90 degree fittings? why not just bend the tube? It makes no sense to me tbh might as well use soft tubing with a few hard line ones thrown in to reduce costs etc.


Personal aesthetics preference and/or spacing issues. Angled adapters are still the only way to go about where tight bends are not possible.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I must admit,I was expecting more from you snef,that looks the same as every other build you have done....
> 
> You need to start stretching yourself rather than produce identi-rigs all the time.


I wholeheartedly disagree. This is a *HUGE* improvement over his last rig.


----------



## emsj86

The pictures make the case look bigger than it is. Those bends are so tight and go from one 90 to another. Be hard pressed or almost impossible to not only bend all those angles but make it look perfect on top of it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why do people use hardline tubing with 90 degree fittings? why not just bend the tube? It makes no sense to me tbh might as well use soft tubing with a few hard line ones thrown in to reduce costs etc.
> I just don't understand why you wouldn't bend it? Can someone clarify?
> To be honest mate, the way you came across is a bit wrong for "gentle" pushing... I have to have group critiques etc in what I want to become and depending on how the critisism comes across depends on how well I take it. If you said that to me, it just sounds like you're being an ass. You might not see it that way and you're highly respected (even by me your builds are pretty damn epic) but the way you comment sometimes can be easily misinterpreted. (No offense intended just sitting on the fence here)
> 
> I understand where you're coming from, and you're just trying to help a fellow modder out but dang man, you catch more bees with honey.


If you look through @snef builds you would notice a "pattern" of not having long tubing bends. He seems to tend to like the look of 90 Degree angles and clean runs. I concur with how Snef builds computers and aspire to be in the limelight you give him someday. Either way, bad, good, or Indifferent.

The Cautious One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Leak test
> 
> 90% of cables are done
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why do people use hardline tubing with 90 degree fittings? why not just bend the tube? It makes no sense to me tbh might as well use soft tubing with a few hard line ones thrown in to reduce costs etc.
> I just don't understand why you wouldn't bend it? Can someone clarify?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,I said it about your last and this one.
> 
> Am I wrong tho? No.
> 
> Could you push yourself to a higher level? Yes.
> 
> Why do you take this constructive comment so badly? Its not about money or sponsors,its about ability..which you have,so why not take it a bit further?
> 
> This is not about being a 'modder' or a 'builder',its about growing your skill set and enhancing your eye for the aesthetic. If you dont want the gentle push forward then thats fine with me,I wont be putting you forward when asked about and we can leave it there,I wont comment on your future builds if this upsets you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> To be honest mate, the way you came across is a bit wrong for "gentle" pushing... I have to have group critiques etc in what I want to become and depending on how the critisism comes across depends on how well I take it. If you said that to me, it just sounds like you're being an ass. You might not see it that way and you're highly respected (even by me your builds are pretty damn epic) but the way you comment sometimes can be easily misinterpreted. (No offense intended just sitting on the fence here)
> 
> I understand where you're coming from, and you're just trying to help a fellow modder out but dang man, you catch more bees with honey.
Click to expand...

Im a blunt and to the point person,I do not mince my words, By the same token,I mean what I say,you will always get a straight answer from me.
You all seem to think I dont like that build,which is not true,I was expecting more from him...I _wanted_ more from him.

Im disappointed because it didnt happen......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I must admit,I was expecting more from you snef,that looks the same as every other build you have done....
> 
> You need to start stretching yourself rather than produce identi-rigs all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> I wholeheartedly disagree. This is a *HUGE* improvement over his last rig.
Click to expand...

You misunderstand what I mean,the quality of the build is fine,its the lack of progression from the same style.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im a blunt and to the point person,I do not mince my words, By the same token,I mean what I say,you will always get a straight answer from me.
> You all seem to think I dont like that build,which is not true,I was expecting more from him...I _wanted_ more from him.
> 
> *Im disappointed because it didnt happen.*.....


Don't Be Dissapointed B Neg! Just make a build for US!!!

The Cautious ONe


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why do people use hardline tubing with 90 degree fittings? why not just bend the tube? It makes no sense to me tbh might as well use soft tubing with a few hard line ones thrown in to reduce costs etc.
> I just don't understand why you wouldn't bend it? Can someone clarify?


It can be a lot of work. Some people just don't have the patience to spend a day or more bending acrylic. That is after you have spent a few days learning how to do bends properly. Although I am pretty sure @Snef has patience though as his sleeving shows it.


----------



## VSG

He also said he likes the industrial look for symmetric fittings and tubing. The only people he is even accountable for are his build sponsors and himself/wife in this case. Now can we please move on?


----------



## snef

@B NEGATIVE

be sure i dont get it badly, i know what you try to said

but like he said, sometime you have a special way to say something

and not sure if i said a comment like you said and this in some build you did, you will not write something to answer

and yes youre right, only last two build, not all

and for sponsor or money, yes , its important, if i dont have to pay for water cooling, MB, CPU and GPU, be sure i will spend the same amount of money but on Modding
like you did for acrylic reservoir, paint shop , soldering station and CNC
but the fact my money go on hardware first and need to work with a budget

i respect your opinion more than you think, but i seriously think this one is my one of my best if its not the best

and again i didnt take your comments on wrong side
















@Benjiw

only my taste and the client for this build (my wife







) like more fitings than bending

take a minute and look at some of my build logs

Renegade X, Sand of God and Toxic Snow

im did some with bending, i just like more look of fittings


----------



## VSG




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> 
> be sure i dont get it badly, i know what you try to said
> 
> but like he said, sometime you have a special way to say something
> 
> and not sure if i said a comment like you said and this in some build you did, you will not write something to answer
> 
> and yes youre right, only last two build, not all
> 
> and for sponsor or money, yes , its important, if i dont have to pay for water cooling, MB, CPU and GPU, be sure i will spend the same amount of money but on Modding
> *like you did for acrylic reservoir, paint shop , soldering station and CNC*
> but the fact my money go on hardware first and need to work with a budget
> 
> i respect your opinion more than you think, but i seriously think this one is my one of my best if its not the best
> 
> and again i didnt take your comments on wrong side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Benjiw
> 
> only my taste and the client for this build (my wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) like more fitings than bending
> 
> take a minute and look at some of my build logs
> 
> Renegade X, Sand of God and Toxic Snow
> 
> im did some with bending, i just like more look of fittings


There is really nothing special about my kit,its all very basic serviceable stuff,my paint gear probably cost me a total of £300 for example.
CNC stuff...I can do this for you,from design to manufacture from your concept or I can put you in touch with people that can also do it,Justin at PARVUM is a good guy to know for this...along with Nate at E22/HEXGEAR who gave you the case.

What you need to do is ask.

If you wanted paint,why didnt you ask me? I do stuff for modders all the time,normally for paint cost and a beer afterwards......


----------



## aka13

B neg, you happen to know people in Germany, who are willing to do CNC in small series? All I have around me are guys who do 50+ parts at once, and that is not eally suiting needs for a prototype. Would be nice to know.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> B neg, you happen to know people in Germany, who are willing to do CNC in small series? All I have around me are guys who do 50+ parts at once, and that is not eally suiting needs for a prototype. Would be nice to know.


What material is it you want cutting?
Is it a 2d panel or 3d mill work you need?
Do you have DXF/DWG/SLDPRT files of what you want done?


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What material is it you want cutting?
> Is it a 2d panel or 3d mill work you need?
> Do you have DXF/DWG/SLDPRT files of what you want done?


Mostly smaller 3d-parts, preferably aluminium/acryllic, I work with autodesk inventor, so basically any format avaliable. The only thing I lack is a cnc mill, stuff is way too expensive for my budget.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What material is it you want cutting?
> Is it a 2d panel or 3d mill work you need?
> Do you have DXF/DWG/SLDPRT files of what you want done?
> 
> 
> 
> Mostly smaller 3d-parts, preferably aluminium/acryllic, I work with autodesk inventor, so basically any format avaliable. The only thing I lack is a cnc mill, stuff is way too expensive for my budget.
Click to expand...

Speak to Nate at E22 or speak to AngelOD or Paslis on Bit-tech.


----------



## snef

@B NEGATIVE

Thanks for your help, really appreciate

for painting, its the only thing i can do by myself or have the contact to do it ( @Hanoverfist )

already in contact with Nate









the issue is , UK -> Canada

pounds to Canadian dollar is just ridiculus and shipping, easy double the price

im working on my next build, "White Insanity" you will not able to say its not a improvement


----------



## Nichismo

funny how Snef was the only person that was able to actually offer an explanation on his preference for white and the aesthetic goal he had in mind beforehand. And it wasnt really until he mentioned black and darkness that I remembered how much trouble ive had lately with the lighting in my pictures, ive made several posts complaining about it. More white certainly would have helped that!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I didnt bother reading your ramblings and judgements but ill just answer this: Because that is how i feel about it just as your tastes are your preference. Good? Okie Dokie


haha, you say this as if your the open-minded, intellectual one here, yet it is so hypocritical because you are the one being so personally insulted over a mere statement of curiosity.

I had yet to witness such and immature demeanor to that of what you just displayed here on OCN so far. Not since I was on the bodybuilding.com misc section in a thread in which guys were arguing over whether or not a certain girl was a true 10/10 or not. But those guys at least got impatient before pulling the "didntreadlol" tactic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Pretty sure there is a reason Snef's builds get more attention than anything done by Nichismo, or most other's, for that matter, and I highly doubt any one needs it outlined why that is.


I didnt even remotely once make any sort of negative connotation to Snef or his build thus far, all I simply said was that I dont understand the preoccupation with white, ONLY because I felt it slightly took away from how great many things are... So the personal comparison is silly, and despite you acting like the reason is obvious, I really feel like your reason is much different than mine and others too from what I can tell....

Your priorities or goals when it comes to aesthetics or perhaps builds in general is skewed in my opinion, as you are placing a high value on attention.... At this point in time, given the purpose and age of OCN, attention can be made simply from originality, or even outlandish or absurdity... If people were much more respectful and valued each others opinion, and didnt get so offended at the slightest constructive criticism, then attention would be much more common, to those who are showcasing something great, and also to those whom are beginners and need help and direction (which to me is more important). But the way you illustrate attention, is simply from personal pride almost....Snefs builds from what ive seen are very original and unique in numerous ways, so the response is not suprising, its deserving.

I never once had the desire to garner attention as a goal when designing my build. But im proud of what ive done in my time since my first watercooling build. I believe ive come pretty far in a relatively short time. The way I designed my build was extremely un-innovative, and quite frankly a near replicant. Im am a huge fan of Singularity Computers and Daniels work, and in my opinion he is by far the best modder and builder ive ever seen. He is an absolute genius in his craftsmanship and he has provided a ridiculous amount of invaluable information in so many aspects of PC building and modding. In yet, I feel as thought he is no where near the recognition and awarence he deserves. My entire build mimmicks all of his philosophys and methods to the best of my ability, the extent to which I fashioned every part of my build was an effort to perhaps convey it as a product of his trademark.




Mine is the bottom one

Besides, ive recieved a decent amount of appraisal in my opinion, ive had a few of my rigs showcased on EK and Caselabs facebook pages, and that may seem petty but to me it means alot, especially being able to see what the users say as well. Ive also got about 30k in views in my profile photos, and honestly im not very familiar with the respective numbers for those but it still sounds nice to know im getting outside viewers.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> funny how Snef was the only person that was able to actually offer an explanation on his preference for white and the aesthetic goal he had in mind beforehand. And it wasnt really until he mentioned black and darkness that I remembered how much trouble ive had lately with the lighting in my pictures, ive made several posts complaining about it. More white certainly would have helped that!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> haha, you say this as if your the open-minded, intellectual one here, yet it is so hypocritical because you are the one being so personally insulted over a mere statement of curiosity.
> 
> I had yet to witness such and immature demeanor to that of what you just displayed here on OCN so far. Not since I was on the bodybuilding.com misc section in a thread in which guys were arguing over whether or not a certain girl was a true 10/10 or not. But those guys at least got impatient before pulling the "didntreadlol" tactic.
> I didnt even remotely once make any sort of negative connotation to Snef or his build thus far, all I simply said was that I dont understand the preoccupation with white, ONLY because I felt it slightly took away from how great many things are... So the personal comparison is silly, and despite you acting like the reason is obvious, I really feel like your reason is much different than mine and others too from what I can tell....
> 
> Your priorities or goals when it comes to aesthetics or perhaps builds in general is skewed in my opinion, as you are placing a high value on attention.... At this point in time, given the purpose and age of OCN, attention can be made simply from originality, or even outlandish or absurdity... If people were much more respectful and valued each others opinion, and didnt get so offended at the slightest constructive criticism, then attention would be much more common, to those who are showcasing something great, and also to those whom are beginners and need help and direction (which to me is more important). But the way you illustrate attention, is simply from personal pride almost....Snefs builds from what ive seen are very original and unique in numerous ways, so the response is not suprising, its deserving.
> 
> 
> 
> *I never once had the desire to garner attention as a goal when designing my build.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> But im proud of what ive done in my time since my first watercooling build. I believe ive come pretty far in a relatively short time. The way I designed my build was extremely un-innovative, and quite frankly a near replicant. Im am a huge fan of Singularity Computers and Daniels work, and in my opinion he is by far the best modder and builder ive ever seen. He is an absolute genius in his craftsmanship and he has provided a ridiculous amount of invaluable information in so many aspects of PC building and modding. In yet, I feel as thought he is no where near the recognition and awarence he deserves. My entire build mimmicks all of his philosophys and methods to the best of my ability, the extent to which I fashioned every part of my build was an effort to perhaps convey it as a product of his trademark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is the bottom one
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Besides, ive recieved a decent amount of appraisal in my opinion, ive had a few of my rigs showcased on EK and Caselabs facebook pages, and that may seem petty but to me it means alot, especially being able to see what the users say as well. Ive also got about 30k in views in my profile photos, and honestly im not very familiar with the respective numbers for those but it still sounds nice to know im getting outside viewers
> 
> 
> .


I understand where your coming from but you wouldn't have posted your Pictures Multiple, Multiple, Multiple, Times to not have attention to it.

I would be hard for me to say that when you, or anyone for that matter spends the amount of COLD HARD CASH we all do on a computer or hobby that you are compelled to show it off to someone, anyone who would care to see it.

The Cautious One


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand where your coming from but you wouldn't have posted your Pictures Multiple, Multiple, Multiple, Times to not have attention to it.
> 
> I would be hard for me to say that when you, or anyone for that matter spends the amount of COLD HARD CASH we all do on a computer or hobby that you are compelled to show it off to someone, anyone who would care to see it.
> 
> The Cautious One


your misconstruing what I said. I elaborated in good detail what "attention" meant this particular regard. I explained attention for something being outlandish, and also attention for someone perhaps because they are a noobie and need particular help....

the attention you spoke of (which I defined), was not the attention I was hoping to attract.....

and if youve noticed my pictures being posted multiple times, you wouldn't act as begrudgingly as you have. I havnt made a single build log or thread regarding any of my builds in a long time, or at all for that matter. Its not like im spamming all over social media as much as possible. Regardless, thats not the point.

and I would take all constructive criticism as positive and respectfully as possible, and i even asked for it several times. I certainly wouldnt make some immature joke where I cross out someones entire first post before ive even spoken a single word to them....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Deleted


----------



## snef

guys we are here to discuss, help each other and share our great hobbie

and for sure we like sharing our work to more poeple we can

i like contructive comments and on my build logs if someone say anything about his opinion, im ok with that if its make with respect

like i said, every single person have their own taste and opinion, impossible to do something everyone like or love

the most important thinbg is simply the respect, I will not waste my temp on disrespectful comments and simply click on next page

otherwise i'll answer

now its time to close this discussion no?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> guys we are here to discuss, help each other and share our great hobbie
> 
> and for sure we like sharing our work to more poeple we can
> 
> i like contructive comments and on my build logs if someone say anything about his opinion, im ok with that if its make with respect
> 
> like i said, every single person have their own taste and opinion, impossible to do something everyone like or love
> 
> the most important thinbg is simply the respect, I will not waste my temp on disrespectful comments and simply click on next page
> 
> otherwise i'll answer
> 
> now its time to close this discussion no?


Fine.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Fine.


lolll


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> lolll










To you @snef I need a monster or something. Mountain dew... Or My Sma8 to hold me

The Cautious One

EDIT: PS Congrats on the Icy II. I think the case worked out great for space and singularity of components. Is that mayhems Blue PasteL?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im a blunt and to the point person,I do not mince my words, By the same token,I mean what I say,you will always get a straight answer from me.
> You all seem to think I dont like that build,which is not true,I was expecting more from him...I _wanted_ more from him.
> 
> Im disappointed because it didnt happen......
> You misunderstand what I mean,the quality of the build is fine,its the lack of progression from the same style.


I know I'm a couple pages late, and the comment isn't at me, but this is why I come here. When I post pics I'm looking for straight forward feedback, because I know that this club will give it to me honestly







.


----------



## Gleniu

Bleeding in progress, it's a temporary loop, I'll be adding GPU waterblocks soon (just waiting for backplates to be sent from Slovenia).
Pictures are 'quick and dirty', final pictures will follow as soon as the build is done.
There is one small issue - Masterkleer black UV tubing is not black (at least the 3m box I got), it is dark navy blue. Any recommendation for REAL black glossy tubing (16/10mm)? Maybe stuff like EK ZMT would look good as well?




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To you @snef I need a monster or something. Mountain dew... Or My Sma8 to hold me
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> EDIT: PS Congrats on the Icy II. I think the case worked out great for space and singularity of components. Is that mayhems Blue PasteL?


Thanks

yep Mayhem Blueberry Pastel


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Gez beautiful shots...would be interesting to see the "behind the scene" on them


Thank you. Ghetto lighting, a bottle of Jack Daniels and a bit of Lighroom . The pics were posted during my liveblogging night session, please check my build log in sig, if you are interested.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Even after the "lecture", I am still sure Snef's builds garner attention for good reason, whether certain people respect that or not. Fact of the matter is, being condescending about any choice someone makes for their builds, regardless of level, has no purpose IMO. There's friendly competition, and then there is snide remarks...most of those who tend to comment negatively are taking the latter route, and they darn well know it. Regardless of the comments made afterwards to clean up the mess because someone called them on their passive aggressive tact. Snef's builds are about as close to perfection as we have here on OCN, yet he doesn't go around preaching to people how he expects better...because along with his modding skills (yes, modding), he has also picked up some manners and etiquette at some point in life, which is more than I can say for many on OCN these days...the experienced modders used to be the most helpful and welcoming bunch around here, but those days are long past, and those who don't like where OCN has gone are out of their element, I suppose. To each their own, they will say...yeah...


----------



## Cyclops

My first watercooling build back in 2008, those were the days:


----------



## Ceadderman

okay, I know that digital plots are easier to work with...

But I am old skool and like planning schematics on paper. Can this be done from my way. Ornate probably a little late in the process to ask since I am nearing the end of my planning stage, but it's how I plan anything that I build not related to system building. I don't have the proper software for diagraming and probably won't have it anytime soon due to myexpected bundle of joy this Summer. Hopefully the holidays haven't delayed the stork at all.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> My first watercooling build back in 2008, those were the days:


And people say change is bad....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> My first watercooling build back in 2008, those were the days:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics


What pump is that? Looks a lot like an MCP50x, but it can't be if that pic is that old. Did they have a DDC top like that back in 2008?


----------



## VSG

Looks like the MCP35B was the first to have a top like that from Swiftech.


----------



## lowfat

I think you mean 2010 not 2008. That is a X58 Sabertooth and an MCP35X. Both didn't come out till 2010.

If we are posting classics again this is my first from 2004.










Then in 2005. This is where I first started to care about cable management.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think you mean 2010 not 2008. That is a X58 Sabertooth and an MCP35X. Both didn't come out till 2010.
> 
> If we are posting classics again this is my first from 2004.


I didn't think I'd ever see the day where a lowfat build didn't have good cable management.


----------



## sinnedone

A little too much *****ing in here.









Here are some pics of what I've been working on. Still need to find me a 5lt and figure out paracord and sleeving supplies but should be getting assembled soon.


----------



## Lefik

What waterblock is that on your R9 290?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would like to know as well, never seen an EK block like that, looks similar to the Aquagrafix blocks from AquaComputers


----------



## VSG

He's modded the EK plexi block to have an acetal shroud. Also, cool plated stainless steel plate


----------



## Ceadderman

That BP res would be the shizzlette in my Darkside build. Looks like Vader's limo has arrived.









~Ceadder


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That BP res would be the shizzlette in my Darkside build. Looks like Vader's limo has arrived.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


HERE you go


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That BP res would be the shizzlette in my Darkside build. Looks like Vader's limo has arrived.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HERE you go
Click to expand...









Would it be wrong of me to construckt my own cover? I've got a FrozenQ an I don't see that in the list.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> What waterblock is that on your R9 290?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would like to know as well, never seen an EK block like that, looks similar to the Aquagrafix blocks from AquaComputers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> He's modded the EK plexi block to have an acetal shroud. Also, cool plated stainless steel plate


Correct. It is the stock EK acrylic nickel block for the 290 then I acrylic welded some acrylic pieces to the ends to make the acrylic cover the card completely. I then painted the acrylic in black and polished the plate and replaced the screws with stainless and polished those too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That BP res would be the shizzlette in my Darkside build. Looks like Vader's limo has arrived.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be wrong of me to construckt my own cover? I've got a FrozenQ an I don't see that in the list.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Actually its a good idea.







THey actually make one of those res covers for the bitspower 250 but at 80 bucks a pop I found it overpriced. Frozenq makes some awesome speacialty reservoirs, but the top res combo from bitspower works for me better. I was inspired by those though and set out to tape off the res and paint accordingly.







All details are in my build log.


----------



## X-Nine

Can I just chime in, for a second?

Look, we're all a part of this community, we all need to be mindful of that. There's way too many shady people in this industry that we don't need infighting amongst "us." There's shady people, from the lowest artisan to the biggest corporations (those who've been around a little while know this), we need to remain steadfast and together.

It doesn't matter who does what, or who has sponsors or who doesn't, we're all in this because we love what we do. If we didn't, we'd be no better than the next community. I've been through enough of them to tell you that jealousy, infighting, and just all around BS kills them.

I don't care if you're the newest guy here, everyone deserves a modicum of respect. For those of us who have been in the game for a while, we need to encourage new commers and set an example.

I'm not saying I'm perfect (I'm not, at all), and I know I can't touch the level of a lot of people in the modding world, but that doesn't matter. I want this community, us, to be together.

With that said, B Neg, Snef, you are both well known and regarded in the industry itself. I implore both of you to be mindful of that. A lot of people look up to you guys. When people like me are gone and done from this industry, it will be guys like you that will be remembered and inspire others.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Can I just chime in, for a second?
> 
> Look, we're all a part of this community, we all need to be mindful of that. There's way too many shady people in this industry that we don't need infighting amongst "us." There's shady people, from the lowest artisan to the biggest corporations (those who've been around a little while know this), we need to remain steadfast and together.
> 
> It doesn't matter who does what, or who has sponsors or who doesn't, we're all in this because we love what we do. If we didn't, we'd be no better than the next community. I've been through enough of them to tell you that jealousy, infighting, and just all around BS kills them.
> 
> I don't care if you're the newest guy here, everyone deserves a modicum of respect. For those of us who have been in the game for a while, we need to encourage new commers and set an example.
> 
> I'm not saying I'm perfect (I'm not, at all), and I know I can't touch the level of a lot of people in the modding world, but that doesn't matter. I want this community, us, to be together.
> 
> With that said, B Neg, Snef, you are both well known and regarded in the industry itself. I implore both of you to be mindful of that. A lot of people look up to you guys. When people like me are gone and done from this industry, it will be guys like you that will be remembered and inspire others.


THIS! A gazillion times this! +Rep for being the voice of reason.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## choLOL

Hey, guys. What's better, a thin radiator like the xspc ex360 in push-pull or a thick radiator like the ek xtx360 in either push or pull?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> Hey, guys. What's better, a thin radiator like the xspc ex360 in push-pull or a thick radiator like the ek xtx360 in either push or pull?


My vote goes to the ex360 for sure.
Although you will get a fair amount more noise from that setup.

Fpi is the thing to look for. Higher is more heat dump potential.

Surface is much more important then thickness. So get the biggest you can. Is 480 possible for you?


----------



## choLOL

I see. Noise is fine, I wear headphones most of the time.







And, no, a 480 won't fit. I'm actually gonna force a 360 in the Phantom 410 (eventually, during my uni's break).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Can I just chime in, for a second?
> 
> Look, we're all a part of this community, we all need to be mindful of that. There's way too many shady people in this industry that we don't need infighting amongst "us." There's shady people, from the lowest artisan to the biggest corporations (those who've been around a little while know this), we need to remain steadfast and together.
> 
> It doesn't matter who does what, or who has sponsors or who doesn't, we're all in this because we love what we do. If we didn't, we'd be no better than the next community. I've been through enough of them to tell you that jealousy, infighting, and just all around BS kills them.
> 
> I don't care if you're the newest guy here, everyone deserves a modicum of respect. For those of us who have been in the game for a while, we need to encourage new commers and set an example.
> 
> I'm not saying I'm perfect (I'm not, at all), and I know I can't touch the level of a lot of people in the modding world, but that doesn't matter. I want this community, us, to be together.
> 
> With that said, B Neg, Snef, you are both well known and regarded in the industry itself. I implore both of you to be mindful of that. A lot of people look up to you guys. When people like me are gone and done from this industry, it will be guys like you that will be remembered and inspire others.


You misunderstand what im saying,im not sniping nor making snide comments,I genuinely want Snef to progress. I have no issues with him,I don't have anything going on with him,I am just a bit disappointed...and that's on me for expecting something else.
He has a good eye for the aesthetic,I want him to expand on that.

Now,you may find me a bit harsh perhaps,but that's nothing new.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You misunderstand what im saying,im not sniping nor making snide comments,I genuinely want Snef to progress. I have no issues with him,I don't have anything going on with him,I am just a bit disappointed...and that's on me for expecting something else.
> He has a good eye for the aesthetic,I want him to expand on that.
> 
> Now,you may find me a bit harsh perhaps,but that's nothing new.


give it a rest now guys.









@B NEGATIVE your a landon''er so a lot of people will think its you just being rude.
when its more like you just being?........well a landon''er lol


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> I see. Noise is fine, I wear headphones most of the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, no, a 480 won't fit. I'm actually gonna force a 360 in the Phantom 410 (eventually, during my uni's break).


Also have a read here.


----------



## electro2u

What's a proper flow rate for a loop? I've been running under 200 lph the whole time I've been doing this. I'm sure the higher the better until something pops but is 160lph too low?


----------



## Spock121

I was gonna wait until I got my new mobo and matching fittings for the rest of my monsoons but the order just got delayed so here I am. Excuse the quality, taken on an aging Lumia 810.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> What's a proper flow rate for a loop? I've been running under 200 lph the whole time I've been doing this. I'm sure the higher the better until something pops but is 160lph too low?


How do you measure actual flow rate?
And, I can't recall for sure but I thought people were talking about a .5 gpm flow rate, which is equal to 114 lph.

I don't mind flow rate at all. Got no sensors for it.
Got a single rad single block(Supremacy EVO) on a mcp655 @ speed 3.
Will expand loop to cpu, gpu and dual rad soon.

I don't think i need to measure flow rates, or am I wrong here?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spock121*
> 
> I was gonna wait until I got my new mobo and matching fittings for the rest of my monsoons but the order just got delayed so here I am. Excuse the quality, taken on an aging Lumia 810.


Looks okay.

I somehow don't like that return tube, coming from the cpu. It's a bit much... i don't know.
Still.. I like them tubes white.









Here's mine:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> How do you measure actual flow rate?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And, I can't recall for sure but I thought people were talking about a .5 gpm flow rate, which is equal to 114 lph.
> 
> I don't mind flow rate at all. Got no sensors for it.
> Got a single rad single block(Supremacy EVO) on a mcp655 @ speed 3.
> Will expand loop to cpu, gpu and dual rad soon.
> 
> I don't think i need to measure flow rates, or am I wrong here?
> Looks okay.
> 
> I somehow don't like that return tube, coming from the cpu. It's a bit much... i don't know.
> Still.. I like them tubes white.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


@snef Recommended me to use these

The Cautious One

PS: I bought Two


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> How do you measure actual flow rate?
> And, I can't recall for sure but I thought people were talking about a .5 gpm flow rate, which is equal to 114 lph.
> 
> I don't mind flow rate at all. Got no sensors for it.
> Got a single rad single block(Supremacy EVO) on a mcp655 @ speed 3.
> Will expand loop to cpu, gpu and dual rad soon.
> 
> I don't think i need to measure flow rates, or am I wrong here?


They make make inline flow meters that are basically the size of a 30mm extension fitting, and I have an Aquacomputer flow meter block, which is apparently kind of restrictive


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @snef Recommended me to use these
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> PS: I bought Two


Yeah I know those.
But not for me, I'm kinda on the budget side.

I am pretty certain that the mcp-655 is enough for 2 rads and two (low restriction)blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> They make make inline flow meters that are basically the size of a 30mm extension fitting, and I have an Aquacomputer flow meter block, which is apparently kind of restrictive


The AC is a nice thing indeed.
Maybe later for me.









Did some quick reading on Google and I got things mixed, it was actually 1.5gpm that I've read about.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I am pretty certain that the mcp-655 is enough for 2 rads and two (low restriction)blocks.


a D5 (mcp655) is enough for a lot more rad and block than 2 rad and 2 block


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> a D5 (mcp655) is enough for a lot more rad and block than 2 rad and 2 block


I know.
That's why I said I'm pretty sure.









I bought the fella from a overclocker here on the forum about a year ago.
Could've got away with a smaller/less powerfull pump, but I chose that one for expandability.

Can someone here help me on how to determine possible flow rate with my loop?

mcp-655 preferably @ setting 3
Supremacy EVO cpu
EK-FC 290x acetal+nickel gpu
EK XT-140 + UT60 360 rads
I really have no clue on where to start.
Know these two blocks are low restriction.
The UT60 is a low restriction, the XT slightly more judging by Martins Liquid Lab.

+rep for the golden reply.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Can I just chime in, for a second?
> 
> Look, we're all a part of this community, we all need to be mindful of that. There's way too many shady people in this industry that we don't need infighting amongst "us." There's shady people, from the lowest artisan to the biggest corporations (those who've been around a little while know this), we need to remain steadfast and together.
> 
> It doesn't matter who does what, or who has sponsors or who doesn't, we're all in this because we love what we do. If we didn't, we'd be no better than the next community. I've been through enough of them to tell you that jealousy, infighting, and just all around BS kills them.
> 
> I don't care if you're the newest guy here, everyone deserves a modicum of respect. For those of us who have been in the game for a while, we need to encourage new commers and set an example.
> 
> I'm not saying I'm perfect (I'm not, at all), and I know I can't touch the level of a lot of people in the modding world, but that doesn't matter. I want this community, us, to be together.
> 
> With that said, B Neg, Snef, you are both well known and regarded in the industry itself. I implore both of you to be mindful of that. A lot of people look up to you guys. When people like me are gone and done from this industry, it will be guys like you that will be remembered and inspire others.


Fully agree and well said
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I know.
> That's why I said I'm pretty sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the fella from a overclocker here on the forum about a year ago.
> Could've got away with a smaller/less powerfull pump, but I chose that one for expandability.
> 
> Can someone here help me on how to determine possible flow rate with my loop?
> 
> mcp-655 preferably @ setting 3
> Supremacy EVO cpu
> EK-FC 290x acetal+nickel gpu
> EK XT-140 + UT60 360 rads
> I really have no clue on where to start.
> Know these two blocks are low restriction.
> The UT60 is a low restriction, the XT slightly more judging by Martins Liquid Lab.
> 
> +rep for the golden reply.


Start here at the community thread. Also you can check the chessboard log. I have tested several loops configurations with components similar to yours. I would guess estimate that you are getting around 0.8 GPM in setting 5 and around 0.5 GPM with setting 3 on your configuration.

Links:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/40#post_23094308


----------



## lawndart

I don't remember If I posted my updates in here but here they are...





Comments welcome.

LawnDart


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Fully agree and well said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start here at the community thread. Also you can check the chessboard log. I have tested several loops configurations with components similar to yours. I would guess estimate that you are getting around 0.8 GPM in setting 5 and around 0.5 GPM with setting 3 on your configuration.
> 
> Links:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/40#post_23094308


Hmm.
Will read, thanks.

.5 is a bit low, right?
Will that hurt my temps a lot?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hmm.
> Will read, thanks.
> 
> .5 is a bit low, right?
> Will that hurt my temps a lot?


not at all. I run my two loops at 0.45 GPM with pumps tune down to 25%. I can reach 1.45 GPM in both loops with pumps at 100% but while gaming I didn't perceive any significant difference running at 25% or at 100% (mind you that both loops are dual d5 pump). As long as turbulent flow is generated within the blocks you will not see much of a difference in temperature.

edit- Also mind you that that figure I gave you is a guess based on my experience with blocks and pump similar to yours. The only way to be sure is measuring the flow in your loop or making the calculation based on previous tests of your components and the d5 p-q curve.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> not at all. I run my two loops at 0.45 GPM with pumps tune down to 25%. I can reach 1.45 GPM in both loops with pumps at 100% but while gaming I didn't perceive any significant difference running at 25% or at 100% (mind you that both loops are dual d5 pump). As long as turbulent flow is generated within the blocks you will not see much of a difference in temperature.
> 
> edit- Also mind you that that figure I gave you is a guess based on my experience with blocks and pump similar to yours. The only way to be sure is measuring the flow in your loop or making the calculation based on previous tests of your components and the d5 p-q curve.


True.
Measurement is knowledge.

Sadly I am a bit cheap so I will just go with the parts I have now, almost have... the gpu block is still to buy







.
And then compare component temps with benchmarks or something.

How long do you think i should run the components on a set pump speed to let the water reach final temp?
Do something like an hour of benching or something? In between letting the water cool to ambient?










edit:
Maybe its just me but I have a hard time getting things clear here.
I can find graphs showing pressure drop with certain flow rates, for both the Supremacy EVO and the FC-290x blocks. But how to combine those with the D5 spec's...
I'm lost.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> True.
> Measurement is knowledge.
> 
> Sadly I am a bit cheap so I will just go with the parts I have now, almost have... the gpu block is still to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And then compare component temps with benchmarks or something.
> 
> How long do you think i should run the components on a set pump speed to let the water reach final temp?
> Do something like an hour of benching or something? In between letting the water cool to ambient?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Maybe its just me but I have a hard time getting things clear here.
> I can find graphs showing pressure drop with certain flow rates, for both the Supremacy EVO and the FC-290x blocks. But how to combine those with the D5 spec's...
> I'm lost.


Here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-planning-guide/

Just notice the loop you have is or will be 1 evo and one ek gpu block + two rads. This is equal to my enthoo primo build right now. At 100% d5 I got almost 1 GPM and at 40% I get around 0.5. So, expect more or less this since the r290x block is similar I think to the titan ek block I use.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-planning-guide/
> 
> Just notice the loop you have is or will be 1 evo and one ek gpu block + two rads. This is equal to my enthoo primo build right now. At 100% d5 I got almost 1 GPM and at 40% I get around 0.5. So, expect more or less this since the r290x block is similar I think to the titan ek block I use.


Doing a rough calculation and using the info from that link from Martin it seems that my pressure drop will be close to 2.5psi. Around 2.3 for the two blocks and the two radiators. 5-6 foot of 1/2ID tubing and a single res will drop like 0.2-0.3 psi I guess.

Judging by the spec's supplied by Swiftech themselves and the estimated 2.5psi drop I wil get around: 0.5 gpm with setting 3

Thanks again man.
Made it a little more clear to me. If not crystal.









When I finish my aducation and actually find work, finding it is pretty hard where I live now, I will probably get some real stuff to measure instead of calculate..

Edit:
Its funny how you need to calculate stuff. It's like two ways.
First I need to calculate the pressure drop(in psi) of all the components at a target flow rate.
Then I also need to calculate the flow rate of the pump at the given pressure...










The increase in restriction of the cpu block is actually pretty harsh.
With the D5 at 100% I think I will be just over 1gpm.

Edit:
I need to stop now. My head hurts.
Now I'm actually calculating around 1gpm with setting 3.

I am overloaded with stuff. Haha.
The data I found are all in different formats: mH2O, mBar, and psi as pressure and L/m, L/h and gpm as flow rate.

Rofl

If someone is interested, these are the sites I use to gather the data:
pump
rad 1
rad 2
gpu
cpu


----------



## Jakusonfire

You have to remember that as flow rate drops the pressure drop of each component drops along with it. 0.5gpm would take quite a bit of restriction. As flow is halved pressure drop is approximately quartered, and the reverse is true. As flow is doubled pressure drop is quadrupled. That has the effect of naturally limiting loop flow rates to quite a small range.

For a simple two block and rad loop setting 3 would have flow over 0.75gpm and full power would easily exceed 1gpm


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You have to remember that as flow rate drops the pressure drop of each component drops along with it. 0.5gpm would take quite a bit of restriction. As flow is halved pressure drop is approximately quartered, and the reverse is true. As flow is doubled pressure drop is quadrupled. That has the effect of naturally limiting loop flow rates to quite a small range.
> 
> For a simple two block and rad loop setting 3 would have flow over 0.75gpm and full power would easily exceed 1gpm


Ok ok.
So maybe I did calculate it rather accurate the second time. Coming closely to 1gpm with setting 3.
Its really in the conversion of various forms of data that got me confused.









Would really prefer to have the pump at setting 3 max. Above that gives me quiet a bit of vibration noise.
I don't know what to do to lower the noise. Had it decoupled before switching to a bay res/top combo(space restrictions), but the noise weren't much less then.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> True.
> Measurement is knowledge.
> 
> Sadly I am a bit cheap so I will just go with the parts I have now, almost have... the gpu block is still to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And then compare component temps with benchmarks or something.
> 
> How long do you think i should run the components on a set pump speed to let the water reach final temp?
> Do something like an hour of benching or something? In between letting the water cool to ambient?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Maybe its just me but I have a hard time getting things clear here.
> I can find graphs showing pressure drop with certain flow rates, for both the Supremacy EVO and the FC-290x blocks. But how to combine those with the D5 spec's...
> I'm lost.
> 
> 
> 
> Here:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-planning-guide/
> 
> Just notice the loop you have is or will be 1 evo and one ek gpu block + two rads. This is equal to my enthoo primo build right now. At 100% d5 I got almost 1 GPM and at 40% I get around 0.5. So, expect more or less this since the r290x block is similar I think to the titan ek block I use.
Click to expand...

Out of interest, let's say my loop had ~4.75 PSI and my pump only output a little less than that. Would that mean a lot longer time when bleeding?

And for a real situation. I have my D5 PWM at 25%. So that should be less than 1GPM already, even before I add 0.74 + 0.1 + ~0.4 PSI (total 1.24) from my loop. I'd need to be at around 45-50% for that. However my temps don't change at all from ~10% to 100%. Which leads to me asking, is 1GPM only for when you want to bleed your loop or just good to have the potential for your system to go to that - but it's not required for 24/7 running?


----------



## SoulFallen

Hello since i know many cooling experts visit this forum daily I just wanted to share a link to some questions i had about a loop I will be building my main concern is the pump, and suggestions for anything else are welcome
http://www.overclock.net/t/1534489/first-time-water-cooling-setup
Thanks for the time!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Out of interest, let's say my loop had ~4.75 PSI and my pump only output a little less than that. Would that mean a lot longer time when bleeding?
> 
> And for a real situation. I have my D5 PWM at 25%. So that should be less than 1GPM already, even before I add 0.74 + 0.1 + ~0.4 PSI (total 1.24) from my loop. I'd need to be at around 45-50% for that. However my temps don't change at all from ~10% to 100%. Which leads to me asking, is 1GPM only for when you want to bleed your loop or just good to have the potential for your system to go to that - but it's not required for 24/7 running?


I have a hard time following you.

Bleeding will take longer. That is true.
Do you mean you have less then 1gpm with 1.24 psi?

Your water is probably a lot higher then 10c Delta if you run your pump too low.
Is that bad? Not patricularly. But you need to pay attention that you keep water below the max adviced temps your components can take.

Again, I am no expert. This is just my first loop.

Personally I want to have my loop at 1gpm 24/7, if possible.
You need to adjust your stuff to what you want.. lower temps is more noise.
Note that when you increase your pump(s) speed(s) you will also dump more heat in your loop from the pump. So when you cross the sweet spot you might just as well lower your Delta through the pumps heat dump.

Correct me if I'm wrong.
Still to learn here. After 3 years.


----------



## Boxlid

Received my vreg and chipset blocks from nateman over at the EVGA forums, so finally FULLY water cooled X99 Classified despite no blocks on the market for the board. The chipset block doesn't allow enough room for a HC card in the first slot, so I'll tweak a couple lines and get the first card back into it's spot when I upgrade to non-HC cards with 3rd party blocks.


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxlid*
> 
> Received my vreg and chipset blocks from nateman over at the EVGA forums, so finally FULLY water cooled X99 Classified despite no blocks on the market for the board. The chipset block doesn't allow enough room for a HC card in the first slot, so I'll tweak a couple lines and get the first card back into it's spot when I upgrade to non-HC cards with 3rd party blocks.


There really isn't a point in watercooling the chipset other than just to have said "I've done it". It hardly ever gets warm. VRMs get hot, specially on 2011 platforms so it makes sense to Watercool them, but not the chipset. It's like watercooling the ram, completely unnecessary.


----------



## Boxlid

On the classified there is, the big ugly 'E'







The vregs and chipset were connected by a heat pipe anyways, and didn't want to destroy it in case of rma.


----------



## Spock121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I somehow don't like that return tube, coming from the cpu. It's a bit much... i don't know.
> Still.. I like them tubes white.


Yeah, I don't care for it much either but that's as tight as it will bend without kinking.


----------



## Ceadderman

Why go with that PC flow meter? Seems unnecessarily large imho. I woulda gone with a BP unit over that.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why go with that PC flow meter? Seems unnecessarily large imho. I woulda gone with a BP unit over that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Are you talking about the MPS 400? If so it is quite small the size (or similar) to BP. Besides is one of the lowest restriction flow meters nd can be integrated into the Aquaero/Aquasuite.

take a look on here to check its size at the back top rear of the case:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/60#post_23154213


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxlid*
> 
> Received my vreg and chipset blocks from nateman over at the EVGA forums, so finally FULLY water cooled X99 Classified despite no blocks on the market for the board. The chipset block doesn't allow enough room for a HC card in the first slot, so I'll tweak a couple lines and get the first card back into it's spot when I upgrade to non-HC cards with 3rd party blocks.


Tube mania.
Why so much length?








Looks a bit messy.

And how much rad are you running? Dual 360s?
Your rig in your sig shows a single 360.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxlid*
> 
> On the classified there is, the big ugly 'E'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The vregs and chipset were connected by a heat pipe anyways, and didn't want to destroy it in case of rma.


Makes sense
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spock121*
> 
> Yeah, I don't care for it much either but that's as tight as it will bend without kinking.


I was actually talking about the other end of the cpu block.
The tube that goes over the i/o shields.

How do you find the retention plate of the Raystorm?
I had that block but I found it horrid to tight down evenly because of the bending of the acrylic.
That's one of the main reasons I switched it for a Supremacy EVO.


----------



## feznz

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100g-High-Purity-Grade-99-Copper-II-oxide-Powder-EFU-/171510959391?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27eed98d1f

http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=ajsr.2012.218.227&org=11

Just wondering has anyone tried making/using nanofluid Just thinking about trying it
thinking though most metal oxides have an abrasive effect so pumps may not last too long


----------



## Spock121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I was actually talking about the other end of the cpu block.
> The tube that goes over the i/o shields.
> 
> How do you find the retention plate of the Raystorm?
> I had that block but I found it horrid to tight down evenly because of the bending of the acrylic.
> That's one of the main reasons I switched it for a Supremacy EVO.


Ah, I ran it that way so it's gonna be super easy to plumb in my GPU later down the line. I haven't encountered much flex, and you really don't have to crank it down that much... I'm worried for your hardware.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spock121*
> 
> Ah, I ran it that way so it's gonna be super easy to plumb in my GPU later down the line. I haven't encountered much flex, and you really don't have to crank it down that much... I'm worried for your hardware.


That should be fine, really.
The backplate is rather strong...

Didn't apply crazy force, but I found that it bended real easy making it mount instable pretty easy.
I did mount it a couple of times and took it off to check TIM spread and it was not really consistent. The Supremacy does it better IMO.

I like my block's/coolers tight.








The EVO is tightened down completely though. What I did was: press the block down with thumb and index finger, then screw down top left and bottom right with my other hand completely and the other two afterwards. Makes a pretty even mount.


----------



## darwing

Getting ready for the acrylic bending adventure... And last minute tricks you know of to help out


----------



## Boxlid

The first slot isnt used right now, so chipset lines must reach around the first card, and rest are longer to prevent kinks going cpu to vregs. Using one 360 rad, all thats needed, temps are great. Each 360 rad should handle 1000w of heat, so if it isnt happening check flow and fans, usually fans being the culprit.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting ready for the acrylic bending adventure... And last minute tricks you know of to help out


start with your shortest run first.









lovely looking rig too


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting ready for the acrylic bending adventure... And last minute tricks you know of to help out


I'm loving that color scheme







. Good luck with the bending, can't wait to see how it comes out!


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxlid*
> 
> On the classified there is, the big ugly 'E'



i took a less sophisticated approach.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> start with your shortest run first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lovely looking rig too


Thank you







yeah most of the runs are pretty direct, there is going to be 1-2 bends that are a little difficult but I have 6 tubes to destroy so Im sure I'll be able to get something right








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I'm loving that color scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Good luck with the bending, can't wait to see how it comes out!


Thanks man I love the gold and black, its been a long time coming with this rig as It is really expensive and have been going all out, once the acrylic is in this weekend and I leak test, then put the mayhems pitch black liquid in.









I cant wait to see it either LOL I'll post more pics this weekend after I ruin 5/6 acrylic tubest trying to get 2 bends right hahaha










Spoiler: before acrylic


----------



## emsj86

Very nice darwing what did you use to paint everything (brand and type)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Like a baws!

http://www.hex-gear.com/2014/12/hexgear-worklogs/


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Like a baws!
> 
> http://www.hex-gear.com/2014/12/hexgear-worklogs/


The sticker bomb layout on C.333's looks sick to me, good to see alot of build logs for this up& coming case.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Like a baws!
> 
> http://www.hex-gear.com/2014/12/hexgear-worklogs/


is there an eta & price on the case yet?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Like a baws!
> 
> http://www.hex-gear.com/2014/12/hexgear-worklogs/
> 
> 
> 
> is there an eta & price on the case yet?
Click to expand...

I believe its only a couple of weeks away,there were small revisions made on the modding team's feedback. This is why James ,Snef and myself,along with the other modders,got these early,for snagging and what we would like to see in the final release case.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I believe its only a couple of weeks away,there were small revisions made on the modding team's feedback. This is why James ,Snef and myself,along with the other modders,got these early,for snagging and what we would like to see in the final release case.


oooohh. sounds good!

is one Reverse atx by any chance?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I believe its only a couple of weeks away,there were small revisions made on the modding team's feedback. This is why James ,Snef and myself,along with the other modders,got these early,for snagging and what we would like to see in the final release case.
> 
> 
> 
> oooohh. sounds good!
> 
> is one Reverse atx by any chance?
Click to expand...

There will be replacement accent packs at launch which will allow you to go R-ATX. Or you could easily mod the existing if you have patience.


----------



## szeged

im done building my own custom loops, i found a much better deal on ebay, look how many leds it has, its definitely top quality and worth every penny of the asking price

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Red-Gaming-PC-Intel-i7-5960X-X99-ROG-GTX-980-SLI-16GB-DDR4-2800-Mhz-/161531398197?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item259c058835


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im done building my own custom loops, i found a much better deal on ebay, look how many leds it has, its definitely top quality and worth every penny of the asking price
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Red-Gaming-PC-Intel-i7-5960X-X99-ROG-GTX-980-SLI-16GB-DDR4-2800-Mhz-/161531398197?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item259c058835


Now that's funny! Why didn't he just ask for a gazillion dollars?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im done building my own custom loops, i found a much better deal on ebay, look how many leds it has, its definitely top quality and worth every penny of the asking price
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Red-Gaming-PC-Intel-i7-5960X-X99-ROG-GTX-980-SLI-16GB-DDR4-2800-Mhz-/161531398197?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item259c058835


Wow. That guy sure has an inflated ego... Can't you build like 2.5 of these for his asking price, AND make it look better AND wouldn't one want more than a single 360mm radiator for that kind of load?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im done building my own custom loops, i found a much better deal on ebay, look how many leds it has, its definitely top quality and worth every penny of the asking price
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Red-Gaming-PC-Intel-i7-5960X-X99-ROG-GTX-980-SLI-16GB-DDR4-2800-Mhz-/161531398197?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item259c058835
> 
> 
> 
> Now that's funny! Why didn't he just ask for a gazillion dollars?
Click to expand...

Whenever anyone comes over and sees our computers they almost always ask why don't I build systems like that for a living. No friggin way!

That ebay sale is a good example why, because imho he's not asking enough for it to even be close to worth it.

Even without any significant mods to anything just all the time spent figuring out what all will work together and ordering it and putting it all together, then loading all the software and tweaking it so it'll run worthy of everything put into it, I couldn't even realistically put a price on how much more that I'd want than that, especially since anyone paying that kind of price for a computer with a custom loop won't know diddly about anything so any and every problem they ever had with it they'd be coming back to me like it's my fault. No way! Not even for twice what he's asking.


----------



## emsj86

Edit deleted


----------



## DarthBaggins

For $13k I'd probably buy an inexpensive car to make AutoX Solo II ready, but that's me. .









Also does it come w/ the DeadPool bust, lol


----------



## stickg1

So how do we feel about the MCP50X?


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So how do we feel about the MCP50?


Second this question. I just got it as a pump for my ITX case.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So how do we feel about the MCP50X?


hes a pretty good guy.


----------



## stickg1

Crap, thought it was a female. That explains the dirty looks.


----------



## VSG

We feel good ourselves


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im done building my own custom loops, i found a much better deal on ebay, look how many leds it has, its definitely top quality and worth every penny of the asking price
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Red-Gaming-PC-Intel-i7-5960X-X99-ROG-GTX-980-SLI-16GB-DDR4-2800-Mhz-/161531398197?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item259c058835
> 
> 
> 
> Now that's funny! Why didn't he just ask for a gazillion dollars?
Click to expand...

So would that make my Darkside worth $4k before I dismantled him to mod?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im done building my own custom loops, i found a much better deal on ebay, look how many leds it has, its definitely top quality and worth every penny of the asking price
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Red-Gaming-PC-Intel-i7-5960X-X99-ROG-GTX-980-SLI-16GB-DDR4-2800-Mhz-/161531398197?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item259c058835


Home w/ a boot brace (meh







), so had some funs:

So pieced this together myself to see what I gots:

~$3500 USD for the main specs (newegg.com, sans ship and tax)
~$790 USD for the liquid cooling (ppcs.com, sans ship and state tax)
~$173 USd for the lighting (ppcs/frozencpu, sans ship and tax)
~$855 Usd for accessories (ppcs.com, newegg.com, frozencpu, amazon, sans ship and tax)

So, there's about ~$5350 Usd worth of hardware (all new). I don't think ~$7k in labor is accurate. Don't forget, its been used, so less 10% for volume discount and depreciation (this is a minor # me thinks).

So, in hardware value for this slightly old rig is ~$4815 USD. I would say labor, you're in a good day or two. I'm not 100% on what the going rate is for pc building labor but I'm just gonna be guesstimated ~$500 for total labor and input.

Good luck to this guy. If I had $3500 lying around, that would be the most i would shell out for this customized (*to his taste*) rig.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> For $13k I'd probably buy an inexpensive car to make AutoX Solo II ready, but that's me. .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also does it come w/ the DeadPool bust, lol


Hrmmmm, you could get a fairly nice StreetMod rig too for that much cash...


----------



## Ceadderman

Sheeeoooot! I could probably build a nice top of the line 4way Crossfire x99 system put it in a Caselabs M8(No fan of that CM case for WC'ing(yeah I have 932 wyp?







) go completely all Acrylic with EK everything including kitchen sink and MDPC sleeving throughout and STILL be able to send my kid to College when he turns 18.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## fa5terba11

Anyone want to help me sleeve the gpu cable from xfx xtr 750?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Anyone want to help me sleeve the gpu cable from xfx xtr 750?


There's a few folks who do sleeving, but if you need help your self sleeving it, you need to probe here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion

some tips to get you started:

get a good eps/atx pin extractor tool. Most of the cheap kit ones are prone to fail. The ppcs.com one I purchased has held well. The other extractors (fan, single pine, and molex) are pretty solid, even the cheap kits.

prepare a good few hours to sleeving. this will consume quite a bit of time.

buy extra pins and get a crimping tool (cheap ones manual ones go for ~$8 and fancy ones for $20+). You may end up w/ a loose pin so it does help to have some pins and tools ready for this.

Practice as it can get tricky getting the sleeve right.

I've done a few but in the end got tired of the process. Now, I just buy a psu w/ ribbon and black cables.

good luck,

-wermad


----------



## Boxlid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Tube mania.
> Why so much length?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks a bit messy.
> 
> And how much rad are you running? Dual 360s?
> Your rig in your sig shows a single 360.
> .


The cpu block is very close to the vregs, so the 'rotation' around the board was the best approach to prevent kinks between the cpu and vregs. A couple lines will be moved around upon upgrading my cards, and trimmed down in the process, so was again better to leave longer. I'm running only one triple and my temps are good with both 780's bios modded to 1346 + 400W and 5960X at 4500mhz. Peak gpu temps are 41C and 43C, and peak cpu temp is 67-70 at full load. I didn't get a very good cpu, takes 1.390v for the worst tests and handbrake, but still plenty fast so no complaints.


----------



## Archea47

Are VRM chokes conductive?

I have two aquacomputer blocks + backplates for my Sapphire Tri-X 290Xs. On both cards with both blocks I measure the VRM chokes to be ~0.025" too tall.

There's only 0.050" of copper to play with there - mow much space should I need between the chokes and the copper block, or is the chokes touching the block not an issue?


----------



## fast_fate

Bit of a push to get more info for the community guys....
radiator volume measurements to be more precise
When you're flushing your new rads or doing some maintenance take a measurement of the fluid volume the rad holds and post up some data








@JackNaylorPE has set up a thread for posting data....

The Radiator Volume Thread

Easy for everyone to contribute


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im done building my own custom loops, i found a much better deal on ebay, look how many leds it has, its definitely top quality and worth every penny of the asking price
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Red-Gaming-PC-Intel-i7-5960X-X99-ROG-GTX-980-SLI-16GB-DDR4-2800-Mhz-/161531398197?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item259c058835


I would still rather have that than Slinky's over volted scrap pile.....


----------



## aka13

WHo is slinky and why is he applying electrical current to his feces?


----------



## skupples

Mother of god, that's like 500%+ mark up.

In slinky'a defense. OV is the only way.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Mother of god, that's like 500%+ mark up.
> 
> In slinky'a defense. OV is the only way.


Normally I would agree,but I have been caught out before doing OV builds and selling them,its not something you do for 'retail'...not if you want to make money..


----------



## Kimir

I though the same thing as B NEG but I kept it from myself, too afraid to make him appear again.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> WHo is slinky and why is he applying electrical current to his feces?





Spoiler: Warning: This is Slinky



https://www.google.com/search?q=slinky+pc
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slinky-Supercomputer-V3-Classified-24-7-EXTREME-Gaming-PC-up-to-4-Way-SLI-/301055618270 (turn down your volume)



And you might want to be careful as I think you might have inadvertently given away his build trade secrets. If so he tends to take that sort of thing seriously.


----------



## stickg1

Wait a tick, it's $10K with NO GPUs? And he puts all those ugly stickers on everything? And the radiator is an external unit? ***


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I just love how the best and newest Watercoolers (people) around the world all meet here.









THe Cautious One


----------



## Dortheleus

For 13K I'll build a Custom PC and Custom Case with Custom Loop with the colours of your choise.


----------



## aka13

Hahahaha, holy hell, wait, he actually wants 10 grand, in USD, without gpus? Hell, and it says "3 sold" on his ebay page, hell, why would one buy such things?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: This is Slinky
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=slinky+pc
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slinky-Supercomputer-V3-Classified-24-7-EXTREME-Gaming-PC-up-to-4-Way-SLI-/301055618270 (turn down your volume)
> 
> 
> 
> And you might want to be careful as I think you might have inadvertently given away his build trade secrets. If so he tends to take that sort of thing seriously.


I doubt he can do anything legally binding, also depends on the jurisdiction, and on the lawyers. Even if he has copyrighted it, all the parts he did buy are premade mostly, it'll be more then enough to change led color and his "copyright" would not apply. Hell, how do you copyright the tubing arangement in a case?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> For 13K I'll build a Custom PC and Custom Case with Custom Loop with the colours of your choise.


For 13K i would buy a car in my country....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Hahahaha, holy hell, wait, he actually wants 10 grand, in USD, without gpus? Hell, and it says "3 sold" on his ebay page, hell, why would one buy such things?


Cause people are stupid


----------



## jarble

Finally caught back up on this thread some really good builds in here


----------



## emsj86

The fact of the matter is there is ways someone rich enough lazy enough that want everything and don't care what it cost. Specially if not a lot our doing it and the customer is too lazy to be informed


----------



## MadHatter5045

Lol, from my perspective, as someone who used to sell a lot of stuff on eBay, there's no way this could ever be worth it to me as a seller because eBay's going to take 13% of the sale (3% PayPal fee on payment and 10% "final value" fee from eBay). The gouging is real.

Slinky's machines are a whole different mess. $10K w/out GPUs means his "business" perpetuates the stereotype that PC building/gaming is uber expensive, and for that reason I hope for his failure. That and when I was reading through the acrylic tubing 101 thread every time he came in there he would try to start random drama with other posters for no reason. May his taxes increase.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I just love how the best and newest Watercoolers (people) around the world all meet here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe Cautious One


You know where they don't meet? Facebook, sweet mother of pearl. I thought I would be nice and try to help some people in these groups I keep getting invited to. I've come to the realization that all my patience gets used up by my own children. These people will just have to sort it out themselves.

On a side note, I think I'm going to liquid cool my 350D rig here soon. I'll probably use a dual bay res/pump because last time with a tube res I ran into some trouble, or was just never satisfied with the outcome. Actually I think I just zip tied the tube to the back of the case and never took pictures, LOL.

Anyway, D5 vario, 35X, or 50X? I read VSG's review, all I was able to extrapolate from it was that all of them work well and would suit my needs. So should I just go by price-point?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Great News is that I have all the Rads now for my upcoming build, Just waiting on this case now










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











The Cautious One


----------



## Jakusonfire

Ebay fees are capped. They aren't going to to take 13% of 10 grand, that's for sure.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Great News is that I have all the Rads now for my upcoming build, Just waiting on this case now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


Do you have a build log? I need to subscribe







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Ebay fees are capped. They aren't going to to take 13% of 10 grand, that's for sure.


I never sold anything for that much so I never knew that, thanks for the info. The sale fees are still the reason why I stopped selling though.

Sidenote: I just now noticed that the rigs in our sigs have little drop downs to view the components. I'm really observant lol.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Great News is that I have all the Rads now for my upcoming build, Just waiting on this case now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


You promised a build log


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Normally I would agree,but I have been caught out before doing OV builds and selling them,its not something you do for 'retail'...not if you want to make money..


True enough, at least, not to the level he does It. Push them out with turbo enabled, maybe mild mobo OC profile, as those apply more than enough voltage to avoid most instability.

It took over a year for him to finally understand the point of overvolting GK110/ Titans, which makes no sense when you look at his EBay page. He would make fun of people using C2 commands, until we provided mountains of evidence showing him OV on GPU basically works the same as OV on CPU.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You know where they don't meet? Facebook, sweet mother of pearl. I thought I would be nice and try to help some people in these groups I keep getting invited to. I've come to the realization that all my patience gets used up by my own children. These people will just have to sort it out themselves.
> 
> On a side note, I think I'm going to liquid cool my 350D rig here soon. I'll probably use a dual bay res/pump because last time with a tube res I ran into some trouble, or was just never satisfied with the outcome. Actually I think I just zip tied the tube to the back of the case and never took pictures, LOL.
> 
> Anyway, D5 vario, 35X, or 50X? I read VSG's review, all I was able to extrapolate from it was that all of them work well and would suit my needs. So should I just go by price-point?


Stick to the tube res if you can. D5 Vario unless you are putting in some real restrictive elements in there, MCP50X would be my next suggestion if that is too big with a tube res.


----------



## stickg1

I prefer the tube for aesthetics and ease of filling/maintaining. Last time I had a devil of a time fitting two rads and the EK tube I like. I guess I could try harder, lol. I really don't want a bigger case either. 350D fits the rack under my desk perfectly.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> You promised a build log


I know I know. Im a little shy but I've also Stated that I need to get my hands on this case. Should be getting mailed from Cali next week.

The Cautious One


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Great News is that I have all the Rads now for my upcoming build, Just waiting on this case now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


The build is coming closer and closer. I wish I had another pc so I could have spent longer working on mine. Everytime I do anything the next week I'm buying or planning on something else. Looming forward to the finish project. We demand a build log!!! Jk whatever you want to do. Either way good luck looking forward to seeing it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You know where they don't meet? Facebook, sweet mother of pearl. I thought I would be nice and try to help some people in these groups I keep getting invited to. I've come to the realization that all my patience gets used up by my own children. These people will just have to sort it out themselves.
> 
> On a side note, I think I'm going to liquid cool my 350D rig here soon. I'll probably use a dual bay res/pump because last time with a tube res I ran into some trouble, or was just never satisfied with the outcome. Actually I think I just zip tied the tube to the back of the case and never took pictures, LOL.
> 
> Anyway, D5 vario, 35X, or 50X? I read VSG's review, all I was able to extrapolate from it was that all of them work well and would suit my needs. So should I just go by price-point?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-xspc-d5-vario-pump-without-cover.html

the cheapest d5 vario I could find for another user this week. It is only 6-7 bucks more than the 50x. Of course you would still need a top for it. All in all, if space is not a concern I would go with the d5 or been tested and proof in terms of reliability, longevity, silence+ tube (even a small one like ek or the small 150 ml Aquacomputer).

or this which comes with the top that ek still does not sell as stand alone (the clear polished version of the top);

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-d5-vario-plexi-incl-pump.html


----------



## stickg1

That's what I used to use. Here, this picture will better illustrate my space constraints. This is my preferred pump and res, this is the case and pretty much all the same hardware I'll be using, however I now have 3x 3.5" HDDs instead of the one, so I have a HDD cage down in the bottom right. The cables are kind of all over the place, this was rigged up to keep my 280x cool while 24/7 folding. But I just don't think it's possible to fit that res and pump right there...



I did make it fit at one point, but I had to ditch the HDD cage and front radiator...



Now you can probably see why I would be interested in a bay res!


----------



## szeged

Anyone looking for a cheap d5 vario with a top included should check out the Ocn marketplace, an amazing seller has a brand new unused one for sale.

Shameless self plug over.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's what I used to use. Here, this picture will better illustrate my space constraints. This is my preferred pump and res, this is the case and pretty much all the same hardware I'll be using, however I now have 3x 3.5" HDDs instead of the one, so I have a HDD cage down in the bottom right. The cables are kind of all over the place, this was rigged up to keep my 280x cool while 24/7 folding. But I just don't think it's possible to fit that res and pump right there...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did make it fit at one point, but I had to ditch the HDD cage and front radiator...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can probably see why I would be interested in a bay res!


got it. I think you can still fit a d5 + top in the front radiator using a ek mount there. Then a small 1 slot 5.25 bay drive reservoir might do the trick. XSPC also have now an integrated 1 bay reservoir with two pumps designed in house (so far as I known) but honestly I fail to find any review of it and given the track record of the dual version (fail of the pump, been under powered and leaking reservoir) I would consider that with a large grain of salt....Some other user was asking about any review of it a couple of days ago.

http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/twin-x2o-420-single-bayrespump


----------



## electro2u

The monsoon premium 2 Bay res is pretty good. But you don't have room unless you move or toss the fan controller. The 350/450d are fantastic cases. I wish I hadn't sold my 450d.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Anyone looking for a cheap d5 vario with a top included should check out the Ocn marketplace, an amazing seller has a brand new unused one for sale.
> 
> Shameless self plug over.


Heh, I saw it a few minutes ago when I was browsing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> got it. I think you can still fit a d5 + top in the front radiator using a ek mount there. Then a small 1 slot 5.25 bay drive reservoir might do the trick. XSPC also have now an integrated 1 bay reservoir with two pumps designed in house (so far as I known) but honestly I fail to find any review of it and given the track record of the dual version I would consider that with a large grain of salt....Some other user was asking about any review of it a couple of days ago.
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/twin-x2o-420-single-bayrespump


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The monsoon premium 2 Bay res is pretty good. But you don't have room unless you move or toss the fan controller. The 350/450d are fantastic cases. I wish I hadn't sold my 450d.


Yeah, don't mind the fan controller, that is in my AMD Rig. Thing was a piece of junk anyway. I'd probably get a Aquero LT if I need it, but honestly this Z87M-OCF has more than enough fan headers so I should be set.

I'm thinking a dual bay res with pump would be ideal for my smallish build. Everything is nice and tidy out of the way. I could probably put a passthrough on the top of the case and fill from there. Shouldn't be too bad.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm thinking a dual bay res with pump would be ideal for my smallish build. Everything is nice and tidy out of the way. I could probably put a passthrough on the top of the case and fill from there. Shouldn't be too bad.


The Monsoon might be the way to go, it has 2 extra ports on the back next to the pump housing. I rigged up a fill port through one of them so that I wouldn't have to pull it out, but don't do that--it was worse than removing my aquaero and filling from the 2 ports on the top of the res. What I would do is exactly what you suggest, if possible--the fillport through the top. I'm not sure there's room for the fittings out of the back of the reservoir, but it could work really well if you can manage it.

What I do since I can't move the reservoir forward for filling is screw in a 90 degree fitting in the top of the monsoon and then screw a barb into it with a hose attached. I realize you can't do that either, but maybe run fittings just behind the control panel on top and put a little fill port through. Wouldn't look bad. Easy to cut through that plastic panel, too.


----------



## emsj86

Just a suggestion for a all space is the swiftech mini res v2 or the small res pump tops for the ddc pumps


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I Did It finally for those asking.

THe Build Log for an SMA8 Caselabs. I hope to impress

The Cautious One


----------



## Archea47

Will there be a short if chokes on the video card touch a copper water block? I'm milling a block to fit a variation in my 'reference' cards and don't have much material to play with


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Will there be a short if chokes on the video card touch a copper water block? I'm milling a block to fit a variation in my 'reference' cards and don't have much material to play with


I'd avoid touching any capacitor mosfet or choke


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I'd avoid touching any capacitor mosfet or choke


I'd like to also, but I might not be able to avoid it. The capacitors have plenty of clearance but the most I'm going to get is a few thousandths of an inch, if that


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I'd avoid touching any capacitor mosfet or choke
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to also, but I might not be able to avoid it. The capacitors have plenty of clearance but the most I'm going to get is a few thousandths of an inch, if that
Click to expand...

Be sure to leave enough relief so that as the thermal pads on the memories compress, you don't crush the chokes into the board as you tighten it down . . . You can use tim on the chokes if you can't get room for even a thin thermal pad on them.

Darlene


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be sure to leave enough relief so that as the thermal pads on the memories compress, you don't crush the chokes into the board as you tighten it down . . . You can use tim on the chokes if you can't get room for even a thin thermal pad on them.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks Darlene! So by your TIM-on-choke recommendation it sounds like it's okay if they contact the cooler (I'm glad I can do that so I can use TIM as you suggest, too). I just about have the first block now so that it sits flat on the card but the material left is so thin I don't want to keep going for isolation if not necessary

Here's a pic milling the aquacomputer block I posted earlier in the 290X forum:


----------



## DarthBaggins

now that's a mill


----------



## Gabrielzm

=01/01/15&news_from_date[to]=01/07/15&psu_style=&side_panel=&sku=]http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/advanced/result/?keyboard_style=&limit=30&name=Nemesis&news_from_date[from]=01/01/15&news_from_date[to]=01/07/15&psu_style=&side_panel=&sku=

nice. HWlabs color rads


----------



## VSG

Primer finish also, I remember the Modzoo video that showed them last year. It should come with a nice bracket to hang the rads from, for painting. Looks like a PPC exclusive at least for now.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> =01/01/15&news_from_date[to]=01/07/15&psu_style=&side_panel=&sku=]http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/advanced/result/?keyboard_style=&limit=30&name=Nemesis&news_from_date[from]=01/01/15&news_from_date[to]=01/07/15&psu_style=&side_panel=&sku=
> 
> nice. HWlabs color rads


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Primer finish also, I remember the Modzoo video that showed them last year. It should come with a nice bracket to hang the rads from, for painting. Looks like a PPC exclusive at least for now.


These look cool but I really wish EK's PE rads came in different colors.


----------



## skupples

guys, the gig is over. It's all about the Captherm 1120/1140, if only I could find a place that even lists them as out of stock or coming soon.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Sidenote: I just now noticed that the rigs in our sigs have little drop downs to view the components. I'm really observant lol.


Oh wow, I never noticed that until you pointed it out. Sweet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> =01/01/15&news_from_date[to]=01/07/15&psu_style=&side_panel=&sku=]http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/advanced/result/?keyboard_style=&limit=30&name=Nemesis&news_from_date[from]=01/01/15&news_from_date[to]=01/07/15&psu_style=&side_panel=&sku=
> 
> nice. HWlabs color rads


Interesting, especially with the primer ones for those who wish to do their own colours....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> guys, the gig is over. It's all about the Captherm 1120/1140, if only I could find a place that even lists them as out of stock or coming soon.


They should take care otherwise aseteek will say they have the patent....

http://www.tweaktown.com/news/34730/captherm-systems-unveils-mp1120-cpu-cooling-just-got-cool-again/index.html


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> guys, the gig is over. It's all about the Captherm 1120/1140, if only I could find a place that even lists them as out of stock or coming soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should take care otherwise aseteek will say they have the patent....
> 
> http://www.tweaktown.com/news/34730/captherm-systems-unveils-mp1120-cpu-cooling-just-got-cool-again/index.html
Click to expand...

Yay! So that thing is finally making it to the market. I am quite curious about the actual performance. It is kind of gimmicky, but kind of neat too.


----------



## emsj86

question could i post a link to my build log here? if thats ok did updates and more updates in the next week I would like feedback mainly to see what i can do better

www.overclock.net/t/1519439/blue-blurry-build-log-by-itzems-phanteks-enthoo-pro-case-new-version-2-0-petg-tubing

blue blurry build (link above) from amd, to amd aio to amd watercooled to intel petg, more hardware changes this week. If i could get some feedback things to do or change . its my first build, somewhat hard to find time with a two year old, but I fell in love with this hobby

jim
itzems
emsj86


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> question could i post a link to my build log here?


Of course!


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Yay! So that thing is finally making it to the market. I am quite curious about the actual performance. It is kind of gimmicky, but kind of neat too.


Holy hell, is there some sort of black magic or sacrifices involved? What the hell is this?


----------



## kalidae

Hey guys I'm new to watercooling and I just put together my first loop. I'm using the xspc single bay res ddc combo. This res has 2 chambers and I believe the top chamber is for catching air my question is how much do I fill this res up? Do I fill it all the way to top or do I leave the top chamber empty? I can't find any info on this res. It's a real pain to bleed though and even after a week the pump is still hissing away.I have got it filled 100% as u can see from my picture but I'm just not sure. I can't bleed it properly. All the big bubbles are gone but there is lots of micro bubbles and the pump is just hissing and it's getting quite annoying.


----------



## electro2u

Turn the pump down if you can, it's sucking air in from the top of the res probably. I try to keep my Bay res completely full. When I bleed it after filling I tip the case all around and give it little shakes, after there's a bunch of air at the top of the res I top it off.


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Turn the pump down if you can, it's sucking air in from the top of the res probably. I try to keep my Bay res completely full. When I bleed it after filling I tip the case all around and give it little shakes, after there's a bunch of air at the top of the res I top it off.


Thank you for the quick response. I can't adjust the speed of the pump sadly which is a shame because it's only pushing water through a 240 rad and a cpu block. It's massive overkill. So I am doing the right thing by filling it all the way to the to the fill port? Should I leave the cap off for a few days? Would that help to remove micro bubbles? Getting the big bubbles out is easy it's just the little onea that's a problem.


----------



## Spock121

Ah, much better. New fittings soon and I think I might just be satisfied with it for a while.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalidae*
> 
> Thank you for the quick response. I can't adjust the speed of the pump sadly which is a shame because it's only pushing water through a 240 rad and a cpu block. It's massive overkill. So I am doing the right thing by filling it all the way to the to the fill port? Should I leave the cap off for a few days? Would that help to remove micro bubbles? Getting the big bubbles out is easy it's just the little onea that's a problem.


It's a plain 12v DDC pump with molex only? Things gonna burn up running like that with hardly any restriction. Maybe someone more experienced around here can advise on a way to get it to run on 5 or 7v or something.

I wouldn't leave the cap off personally, it's just gonna keep sucking air in and circulating it through the loop. I'm a little bit stumped. Might make a separate thread about it too, cause sometimes this club is a bit tight lipped about beginner stuff. Sometimes they will come in and save the day quickly but not always and this is out of my comfort zone as I don't use DDCs (if that's what is actually in that res even). I'm honestly a beginner myself.


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's a plain 12v DDC pump with molex only? Things gonna burn up running like that with hardly any restriction. Maybe someone more experienced around here can advise on a way to get it to run on 5 or 7v or something.
> 
> I wouldn't leave the cap off personally, it's just gonna keep sucking air in and circulating it through the loop. I'm a little bit stumped. Might make a separate thread about it too, cause sometimes this club is a bit tight lipped about beginner stuff. Sometimes they will come in and save the day quickly but not always and this is out of my comfort zone as I don't use DDCs (if that's what is actually in that res even). I'm honestly a beginner myself.


it's a 4 pin molex with a 3 pin tacho. I can see the speed but can't adjust it.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_299&products_id=29237&zenid=a8085ca4a7c89dacc40e836b06afde85

Even if you are a beginner you have been a big help and I thank you for that. I'll keep it filled all the way and ill just keep shaking it from time to time. I do plan on adding a gpu to the loop in the future so perhaps a little more restriction will help.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be sure to leave enough relief so that as the thermal pads on the memories compress, you don't crush the chokes into the board as you tighten it down . . . You can use tim on the chokes if you can't get room for even a thin thermal pad on them.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Darlene! So by your TIM-on-choke recommendation it sounds like it's okay if they contact the cooler (I'm glad I can do that so I can use TIM as you suggest, too). I just about have the first block now so that it sits flat on the card but the material left is so thin I don't want to keep going for isolation if not necessary
> 
> Here's a pic milling the aquacomputer block I posted earlier in the 290X forum:
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> now that's a mill Dinosaur


Fixed that for ya . . . . .









But as long as it gets the job done, that's what really counts









The chokes are non-conductive so it won't short anything, but they are somewhat fragile and would crack from pressure unevenly applied.

if you can make space for a 0.5mm pad that would be the first choice.

If the best you can get is light contact once the block is secured in place, you'll have to settle for that with TIM.

Darlene


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Fixed that for ya . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as long as it gets the job done, that's
> The chokes are non-conductive so it won't short anything, but they are somewhat fragile and would crack from pressure unevenly applied.
> 
> if you can make space for a 0.5mm pad that would be the first choice.
> 
> If the best you can get is light contact once the block is secured in place, you'll have to settle for that with TIM.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah unfortunately that mill's a little more tired today than she was 12 years ago ... and also 70 years ago









Darlene thank you so much for the additional insight on the chokes


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Fixed that for ya . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as long as it gets the job done, that's
> The chokes are non-conductive so it won't short anything, but they are somewhat fragile and would crack from pressure unevenly applied.
> 
> if you can make space for a 0.5mm pad that would be the first choice.
> 
> If the best you can get is light contact once the block is secured in place, you'll have to settle for that with TIM.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah unfortunately that mill's a little more tired today than she was 12 years ago ... and also 70 years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene thank you so much for the additional insight on the chokes
Click to expand...

No problem . . .

Hope it works out OK . . . it's great to have the tools and skills for the tricky stuff.

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

well I was being nice, lol


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spock121*
> 
> Ah, much better. New fittings soon and I think I might just be satisfied with it for a while.


W00t.

Naked ram?
Is that still used? Looks weird with that board.








Nice buy btw, Decent upgrade IMO.

*Guys, can I ask you for your opinion(experience) once more?*

What do you guys think?

Currently running 3 Gentle Typhoon ap-15's on my UT60 rad. Love them.
What can I expect when I put the rad in push/pull?

If it is worth it, second problem comes in sight.... ap-15's are EOL. At least where I live.
Are there similar fans that will do okay when paired with a ap-15?
Buying 6 new fans will certainly not be worth it IMO.

As the rad is rather low FPI, will cheap fans help on the pull side?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> W00t.
> 
> Naked ram?
> Is that still used? Looks weird with that board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice buy btw, Decent upgrade IMO.
> 
> *Guys, can I ask you for your opinion(experience) once more?*
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> Currently running 3 Gentle Typhoon ap-15's on my UT60 rad. Love them.
> What can I expect when I put the rad in push/pull?
> 
> If it is worth it, second problem comes in sight.... ap-15's are EOL. At least where I live.
> Are there similar fans that will do okay when paired with a ap-15?
> Buying 6 new fans will certainly not be worth it IMO.
> 
> As the rad is rather low FPI, will cheap fans help on the pull side?


try the new ek fans. There is a model similar with 1850 rpm. You might expect 1-3 degrees lower temps and the ability to run fans at lower speeds while keeping the same temps you have now. Nothing earth shaking but you will notice differences nevertheless.

edit- http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c707/s2321/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Fans-EK_120mm_x_25mm_Fans-Page1.html

just notice that all are pwm fans.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> try the new ek fans. There is a model similar with 1850 rpm. You might expect 1-3 degrees lower temps and *the ability to run fans at lower speeds while keeping the same temps you have now.* Nothing earth shaking but you will notice differences nevertheless.


Main reason I run push+pull on my radiators. Dropped from about 1500RPM with just push to about 1000RPM with push+pull and temps are just about the same


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalidae*
> 
> it's a 4 pin molex with a 3 pin tacho. I can see the speed but can't adjust it.
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_299&products_id=29237&zenid=a8085ca4a7c89dacc40e836b06afde85
> 
> Even if you are a beginner you have been a big help and I thank you for that. I'll keep it filled all the way and ill just keep shaking it from time to time. I do plan on adding a gpu to the loop in the future so perhaps a little more restriction will help.


get a GOOD fan controller and adjust the speed down to 7v. it will be a lot quieter. the main thing you MUST remember, turn the power up all the way to the pump after powering off your pc. there is a good chance you will burn out the fan controller channel if you dont. dont ask how i know this. besides that, sometimes a ddc wont start with lower voltage and youll need to hit it with full voltage anyway to get it started when it happens. if you have a spare $50 or so, buy an aquacomputer power adjust2. youll be happy you did.


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> get a GOOD fan controller and adjust the speed down to 7v. it will be a lot quieter. the main thing you MUST remember, turn the power up all the way to the pump after powering off your pc. there is a good chance you will burn out the fan controller channel if you dont. dont ask how i know this. besides that, sometimes a ddc wont start with lower voltage and youll need to hit it with full voltage anyway to get it started when it happens. if you have a spare $50 or so, buy an aquacomputer power adjust2. youll be happy you did.


Thank you for the response. I have a corsair 250D mitx case and it only has one drive bay which is of course being used by my res/ pump combo. I guess I could put the fan controller on the inside of the case all hidden away. It's probably my only option. My fans are controlled by a phanteks pwm fan hub, it wouldn't be safe to connect my pump to that would it?


----------



## electro2u

Nope. Guys would an aquaero 5lt be able to handle the ddc in this situation? It's little and easy to mount inside. No display

Edit: it may be out of the question at $77 but that is by far the best option in my opinion. It would work. Also could ask IT Diva about a resistor for a molex cable to drop the load to 7v


----------



## Ceadderman

Honestly I would rather run my $20 sunbeam 3ch fan controller than spend a mint on an Aquero. Easily tucked away has more than enough wpc and reasonably attractive as well. No digital display but it is realiable enough to run 2 DDCs and 3fans on their own Y splitter. I will likely pick up another one or 6ch unit for my 6 other fans depending on the wattage requirements of either Vardar or GT fans I've decided to run over my usual choice of Yate Loons.









~Ceadder


----------



## X-Nine

The Aquaero LT has lots of power and can be tucked away and controlled via software using curves to adjust fan and pump speeds.


----------



## lowfat

DDCs won't start @ 7V. So a resistor is out of the question. An Aquaero 5LT should work fine. Just don't expect the pump to be as quiet as a DDC PWM.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> DDCs won't start @ 7V. So a resistor is out of the question. An Aquaero 5LT should work fine. *Just don't expect the pump to be as quiet as a DDC PWM*.


All @kalidae needs is this little adapter cable to be able to use a fan channel on the Aquaero 5LT. Works like a charm to keep it speed controlled and quiet when the extra pressure isn't needed. Been using 2 for my dual DDC EK pump/res combo on my Aquaero 6 XT.


----------



## Gilles3000

I was wondering, how well would a DDC-1T fair being powered with that Phanteks PWM to 3pin converter? would this give more controllable range than running of mobo voltage control?



http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html


----------



## sinnedone

I wonder how well that phanteks hub works? I have 9 fans I need to control and the 5lt is looking mighty expensive right now.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I wonder how well that phanteks hub works? I have 9 fans I need to control and the 5lt is looking mighty expensive right now.


It works well, you can just add to it with their Y splitters, or you could get one of these: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29234&cPath=511
I just ordered one of these for my GrimBOX build. I've used one before and it works well if you don't need control. If you want control, the Phantek is the way to go.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I was wondering, how well would a DDC-1T fair being powered with that Phanteks PWM to 3pin converter? would this give more controllable range than running of mobo voltage control?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html


Don't try to run a pump on the Phanteks hub. Just. Don't.

The Phanteks PWM hub is not a "PWM hub' in the way most people would think of one. It is supposed to allow you to use a PWM header on a mobo to control the speeds on up to 30w of 3-pin voltage controlled fans. It does so by using the PWM duty cycle to modulate the 12v current to the fans. It's a bit buggy / trouble-prone, and a LOT of people have had trouble getting it to work with their fans / motherboard. Just do a search of the Phanteks Club thread for 'hub' and you'll see what I mean. For those who do manage to get theirs to work for them, they do seem to like it, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Besides that, modulating the 12V current like the Phanteks hub does doesn't always offer a very wide range of control even when it does work right, often causes some fans to make a clicking sound, and can actually damage or shorten the lifespan of your fans.

Example:

http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
Quote:


> There are PWM controllers and there are PWM fans, but the way in which PWM is implemented in each differs greatly: a standard PWM controller modulates the 12 V supply line of an "ordinary" 12 VDC motor. Conversely a PWM controller for PWM fans - such as the one featured in this article - doesn't modulate the 12V supply line but instead sends a PWM signal along a different supply line (the magic "fourth wire") to a more advanced 12 VDC motor, leaving the 12 V supply line uninterrupted. Designated PWM fans not only have internal circuitry which differs from that of standard fans, but because they are designed with speed control in mind the motors themselves are usually more advanced (and expensive). So, PWM speed control of a standard fan is indeed very different from PWM speed control of a PWM fan&#8230; *Nidec even goes so far as to say that modulating the main supply voltage is not advisable:
> *
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> _. Pulse-width modulation of dc operating voltage to modify fan speed is not recommended. Transients generated by that approach can irreversibly damage motor commutation and control electronics and dramatically shorten the life of a fan._
Click to expand...


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't try to run a pump on the Phanteks hub. Just. Don't.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The Phanteks PWM hub is not a "PWM hub' in the way most people would think of one. It is supposed to allow you to use a PWM header on a mobo to control the speeds on up to 30w of 3-pin voltage controlled fans. It does so by using the PWM duty cycle to modulate the 12v current to the fans. It's a bit buggy / trouble-prone, and a LOT of people have had trouble getting it to work with their fans / motherboard. Just do a search of the Phanteks Club thread for 'hub' and you'll see what I mean. For those who do manage to get theirs to work for them, they do seem to like it, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Besides that, modulating the 12V current like the Phanteks hub does doesn't always offer a very wide range of control even when it does work right, often causes some fans to make a clicking sound, and can actually damage or shorten the lifespan of your fans.
> 
> Example:
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx


Good to know, I guess i'll just keep using it undervolted with mobo voltage control then(which isn't ideal either but beats having to deal with the noise).


----------



## emsj86

cell phone pic doesn't show how clear it really is what do you think. Waiting on ddc reservior upgrade kit. To go with the pump top and ek housing. What do you think


----------



## electro2u

I know it's supposed to be a dragon... but I can't help but think it's really a seahorse.

Looks great!


----------



## emsj86

It's a badass seahorse lol


----------



## snef

nice, crystal clear









what coolant you will use?

I just found a little think I don't like with this setup and pastel

I don't run it for 3 day and the thread of the tube res on upgrade kit are now full of white stuff

another reason why I love EK X3 tube res, thread are hidden

look at 2:33


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> nice, crystal clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what coolant you will use?
> 
> I just found a little think I don't like with this setup and pastel
> 
> I don't run it for 3 day and the thread of the tube res on upgrade kit are now full of white stuff
> 
> another reason why I love EK X3 tube res, thread are hidden
> 
> look at 2:33
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice Snef. I am a fan of pastel so I am suspect on that subject...But since you want a replacement what about this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20954/ex-liq-365/Feser_One_Non_Conductive_Cooling_Fluid_-_1000_ml_-_Pure_Blue_.html?tl=g30c337s2042

or aquacomputer blue or mayhem x1 blue? Aurora 2 blue would be a killer on that loop but...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I know it's supposed to be a dragon... but I can't help but think it's really a seahorse.
> 
> Looks great!












I like it.
It does look like it.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> nice, crystal clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what coolant you will use?
> 
> I just found a little think I don't like with this setup and pastel
> 
> I don't run it for 3 day and the thread of the tube res on upgrade kit are now full of white stuff
> 
> another reason why I love EK X3 tube res, thread are hidden
> 
> look at 2:33


I have been using blue berry pastel. I have white pastel as well but I think I may stick with the blue berry. I might even use the white and add the dark blue dye I have. I got the same res combo as you but it's on back order


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nice Snef. I am a fan of pastel so I am suspect on that subject...But since you want a replacement what about this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20954/ex-liq-365/Feser_One_Non_Conductive_Cooling_Fluid_-_1000_ml_-_Pure_Blue_.html?tl=g30c337s2042
> 
> or aquacomputer blue or mayhem x1 blue? Aurora 2 blue would be a killer on that loop but...


my Client want Pastel Blueberry (no choice , my client is my wife lollll)


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have been using blue berry pastel. I have white pastel as well but I think I may stick with the blue berry. I might even use the white and add the dark blue dye I have. I got the same res combo as you but it's on back order


I used Pastel Blueberry in this build but the base of all pastel is white Nano particle

that's why I have white things in reservoir thread


----------



## lowfat

@snef you need one of those fancy slide thingies for your camera.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @snef you need one of those fancy slide thingies for your camera.


They are bloody great and not expensive,its on my 'to buy' list....along with a camera that actually takes video.

Flip cams are crap.....


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @snef you need one of those fancy slide thingies for your camera.


same as B Neg its on my list


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are bloody great and not expensive,its on my 'to buy' list....along with a camera that actually takes video.
> 
> Flip cams are crap.....


Are you still using that 350D / XT?


----------



## Ithanul

What is this fancy slide thingie ya'll speak of? I know my D90 not the greatest at video, but I am curious.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> What is this fancy slide thingie ya'll speak of? I know my D90 not the greatest at video, but I am curious.


Something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/StudioFX-Camera-Slider-Dolly-Stabilizer/dp/B00BOGOT4M


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Something like this.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/StudioFX-Camera-Slider-Dolly-Stabilizer/dp/B00BOGOT4M


Mmmm, interesting. I really need to get me more goodies for my camera. Though, the big 18-300mm lens set me back last time, but dang was that lens worth it.


----------



## darwing

coming together, now just for the bending... oh and im 2x20mm extension fittings off







gotta wait till Wednesday to finish the loop now


----------



## emsj86

It alittle but somewhat on due to it deals with the pics of this thread. I want to buy a camera. But have about 100 to spend is there anything worth getting in that range.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It alittle but somewhat on due to it deals with the pics of this thread. I want to buy a camera. But have about 100 to spend is there anything worth getting in that range.


idk man, the camera on my Iphone 6 is almost as good as my $200 some dollar Fuji Finepix S9200. I've spent hours tweaking the settings in the finepix, but the pictures STILL come out meh. I got it because I thought it had detachable lenses, but i R failed on that one.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Any point with push/pull on EK PE 480s? I think I will settle on 1200 rpm Cooltek fans, the EK Vardar is over twice as much and they are louder (F1 - 1150 rpm) so I am going to skip them.

Planning to run 4930K, RIVBE blocks, 3x R9 290X with 3x 480s.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are bloody great and not expensive,its on my 'to buy' list....along with a camera that actually takes video.
> 
> Flip cams are crap.....
> 
> 
> 
> Are you still using that 350D / XT?
Click to expand...

.........yes.

Im looking at a 650d tho.


----------



## khemist

I must have spent at least £400 on stuff i wont need for this fractal R5 build just because i MIGHT use it... ive already got a d5 and res top (unused) but i don't like how bulky they are.


----------



## fleetfeather

I can't find any sort of cost effective single-bay pump/res combo for an Elite 130 build







The only thing I see is the XSPC X2O 420, but I'm hesitant due to lack of reviews.


----------



## marshymellows

Tought id share my first ever WC build(keep in mind that the cables will not be visable after ive put windows on my side panels)
The mobile camera does not give it justice...


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I can't find any sort of cost effective single-bay pump/res combo for an Elite 130 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I see is the XSPC X2O 420, but I'm hesitant due to lack of reviews.


Alphacool's DDC bay res? Its not pretty, but its cheap.
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1098_Alphacool-Repack---Laing-DDC---5-25-Bay-Station.html

I still have one laying around, but shipping it to Australia would be kind of ridiculous









Edit:
Actually, XSPC's single bay DDC res is cheaper.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25510/ex-res-845/XSPC_525_DDC_Bay_Reservoir_Combo_-_Without_Pump.html#blank
+
http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-mcp350-12-vdc-pump.html
= $92

Thats still nearly double the X2O 420 tho


----------



## Mongoose135

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Tought id share my first ever WC build(keep in mind that the cables will not be visable after ive put windows on my side panels)
> The mobile camera does not give it justice...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job with the tubing, I like it


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must have spent at least £400 on stuff i wont need for this fractal R5 build just because i MIGHT use it... ive already got a d5 and res top (unused) but i don't like how bulky they are.


Are you going to get the Bitspower DDC heatsink? If you are do you know if the tank mount panel works with the heatsink?


----------



## Malik

project GRAY


----------



## Mongoose135

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GREY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and neat! I really like the parallel tubes and how most of the other tubing is hidden from view.


----------



## Alex132

How are the Vadars?


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GREY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice!

Which Coolant is that ?


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GREY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Got a build log?Looks smooth.

Edit: my bad Bneg


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Waveaddict,spoiler quoted pics please/

The loop is in and everything is wired,just the rad and window graphics to do!



Final shots are being done this week!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GRAY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: warning:spoiler!


Very nice parallel setup


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Waveaddict,spoiler quoted pics please/
> 
> The loop is in and everything is wired,just the rad and window graphics to do!
> 
> Final shots are being done this week!


IMO you really should move to a pastel yellow. Non-pastel yellow just looks like urine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Waveaddict,spoiler quoted pics please/
> 
> The loop is in and everything is wired,just the rad and window graphics to do!
> 
> Final shots are being done this week!
> 
> 
> 
> IMO you really should move to a pastel yellow. Non-pastel yellow just looks like urine.
Click to expand...

I know,thats why the coolant is just uv green dye


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMO you really should move to a pastel yellow. Non-pastel yellow just looks like urine.


Oil Black would work too.


----------



## emsj86

@malik what cooltant? I've been looking for a non uv aided light dark blue. Also I really like the build. Is paint the fans dark grey or off black to be different from the fan shroud but at he same time a nice black out look. Either way I like it a lot


----------



## emsj86

Deleted double post


----------



## IT Diva

I've been working on "Diva's Dementia", my Caselabs TH10A chiller build, and came up with an idea for an infinite mirror midplate to mount all the pumps and plate exchangers on.

All I could source locally was low density RGB strips with 9 leds per foot, and not enough of them to light up the left side inner light island, but I'm happy enough with how it looks to order a reel of high density super bright RGBs and go with it.

I'll be getting the new Farbwerk controller from AquaComputer that works with the new Aquasuite as soon as they are available from PPCs to control everything.

Once I have the mirror panel on the back wall of the case, it should brighten up more.

Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Waveaddict,spoiler quoted pics please/
> 
> The loop is in and everything is wired,just the rad and window graphics to do!
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Final shots are being done this week!


I asked this way earlier, but it got lost in the active nature of this thread...

Do you have any grounding issues with an acrylic MB tray? I ask cuz I will be doing mine up soon and being that I plan on doing swapable trays(1 ATX and 1 EATX) I would like to know if I need to account for a groundwire or two.









~Ceadder


----------



## 97discosd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've been working on "Diva's Dementia", my Caselabs TH10A chiller build, and came up with an idea for an infinite mirror midplate to mount all the pumps and plate exchangers on.
> 
> All I could source locally was low density RGB strips with 9 leds per foot, and not enough of them to light up the left side inner light island, but I'm happy enough with how it looks to order a reel of high density super bright RGBs and go with it.
> 
> I'll be getting the new Farbwerk controller from AquaComputer that works with the new Aquasuite as soon as they are available from PPCs to control everything.
> 
> Once I have the mirror panel on the back wall of the case, it should brighten up more.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


love the plate coolers!!!!


----------



## skupples

I've found a new watercooled obsession

saltwater tanks.



unfortunately, from what i've seen, Laing does not make submersibles.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GRAY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice and interesting. Definitely like how the tubes go from the CPU to the GPU then out of the GPU.


----------



## Archea47

All that's left is to turn it on


----------



## wermad

How much work did the second block need?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Waveaddict,spoiler quoted pics please/
> 
> The loop is in and everything is wired,just the rad and window graphics to do!
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Final shots are being done this week!
> 
> 
> 
> I asked this way earlier, but it got lost in the active nature of this thread...
> 
> Do you have any grounding issues with an acrylic MB tray? I ask cuz I will be doing mine up soon and being that I plan on doing swapable trays(1 ATX and 1 EATX) I would like to know if I need to account for a groundwire or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

The PARVUM guys have no issues,mine tray is skinned with steel anyway.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I've found a new watercooled obsession
> 
> saltwater tanks.
> 
> 
> 
> unfortunately, from what i've seen, Laing does not make submersibles.


Nice torch. Going to get any more LPS like hammers or frogspawn?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Nice torch. Going to get any more LPS like hammers or frogspawn?


I have a few right now, just don't know their names. One of them is a clam shaped thing, Alive on both sides, one baby kryptonite, one that I'm calling the sun flower, and a super bright green one with tons of fingers. I know, it's terrible that I don't know their names. I'm jut like ohhhh shiny, I want that one! The next one I have my eye on looks like little soft shell eggs, Looks like alien eggs









Anyways, water blocks and stuffs, don't want to like the B.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GRAY


This is excellent work!


----------



## Jesse36m3

Just joined, thought I should share.










HTC_M8_TAPATALK


----------



## everclearhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jesse36m3*
> 
> Just joined, thought I should share.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HTC_M8_TAPATALK


Nice work


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone know how the Aquacomputer coolant stain? Thinking of this.

How much space is recommended to have between two radiators for them to work as intended? (Not so called "stacked" together), my AC Monsta 480 and EK-XTX 240 with fans will give 1-2 cm clearance between each other, are that okay? Otherwise I have to get a EK PE 480, not sure which fans I will use (probably 700 rpms on the EK-XTX/PE and 1000-1500 rpms on the Monsta's.


----------



## skupples

if it's red, it will stain, no matter who makes it.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> All that's left is to turn it on


Is that a single loop? Or are there two pumps besides each other?

Anyhow, filling that thing through that tiny res must took ages, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GRAY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Am I weird If I find some builds to have some erotic tint?
Haha.

Anyway, I like it.

How is the performance when you go parallel vs series?
Makes it look so much neater, in your case at least.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> *Am I weird If I find some builds to have some erotic tint?*
> Haha.
> 
> Anyway, I like it.
> 
> How is the performance when you go parallel vs series?
> Makes it look so much neater, in your case at least.


You too? I would hope it's not something that's frowned upon. Most of these computers are worth more than a Lady for the NIght









TCO


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You too? I would hope it's not something that's frowned upon. Most of these computers are worth more than a Lady for the NIght
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Hahaha.

You are really cutting it.
But I do agree.
I am from the Netherlands after all, they are pretty cheap here. Lol

Back onto topic.
Building these things is really addictive.
Why did I ever went to water? It is really taking up a lot of money.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hahaha.
> 
> You are really cutting it.
> But I do agree.
> *I am from the Netherlands after all, they are pretty cheap here*. Lol
> 
> Back onto topic.
> Building these things is really addictive.
> Why did I ever went to water? It is really taking up a lot of money.


The Computers or the Women







I might have to take a trip









You went to watercooling because it looks better than not having it in there, and It is more effective than Air.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Yea managing a two year old and hd who wants ring is making it harder and harder to do lol. Well I know I can't say no to the gf now if she wants something lol (but that's why I work so much overtime) on topic , With just fans on pull. What would be the best non monsta 240rad. I have the swiftech performance rad. Would there be a big difference in another rad? Debating on putting more into my build or going out and buying a monoprice or qnix 2710 monitor 1440p.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> going out and buying a monoprice or qnix 2710 monitor 1440p.


I wouldn't bother with the Korean 1440p monitors anymore, since quality 1440p monitors are really starting to drop in price. Don't get me wrong, the QX2710 is a great monitor, but the build quality is just sub par. I'd wait to see what this year brings in terms of new monitors.


----------



## tikurokey

Nice pict,,, where I can buy it ???


----------



## emsj86

Is this ok to use with dye distilled water. I have a copper ek supremacy cpu block and nickel ek gpu block the rest is copper rads.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yea... With just fans on pull. What would be the best non monsta 240rad. I have the swiftech performance rad. Would there be a big difference in another rad?


HWLabs would be the way. To go imho. Sturdy, cheap and effective. I have their 360 stealth unit and it works well enough to cool my MB and CPU temps to average sub 40c temps on average. I am adding 2 more for my GPU loop as well. One per card. I run 120x20 yate Loon 12 sm fans with 7mm silencer/shrouds so I can say that it performs well even mated to case fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is this ok to use with dye distilled water. I have a copper ek supremacy cpu block and nickel ek gpu block the rest is copper rads.


Its got copper sulfate. Only recommendation would be to ensure you have warranty on that nickel block. If I recall, Derick says its ok w/ EK nickel blocks (not 100% tbh).

Btw, I'm running just plain ol distilled. Have been for a few years now through a few different builds. No issues at all. Its been about a month w/ my current build:


----------



## emsj86

I've heard distilled works from a few people and with how much I be been draining to change things it might be the way to go


----------



## sdmf74

I have been using that stuff in this build and havent had any issues whatsoever.


----------



## Angrychair

distilled water in my loop going on 2+ years no growth, with a kill coil only.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Is that a single loop? Or are there two pumps besides each other?
> 
> Anyhow, filling that thing through that tiny res must took ages, right?


I had to do some crazy things to make the GPU blocks fit my cards so I've had it leak testing for the past 18 hours. About to bring it online now

It takes seriously <5 minutes to 90% bleed the (single) loop. I took a video as some other people were having issues with reservoirs at the bottom of the case and it's never been a problem for me


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I've heard distilled works from a few people and with how much I be been draining to change things it might be the way to go


I would recommend spending the $15 on a bottle of Mayhem's clear dyes. They're all inclusive, while products like dead water only attempt to treat one possible issue.

I've had issues with weird build up when using dead water, but I'm also anal about these things. I take every single block apart for inspection every 3-6 months.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





















Nothing really special and I still have to get some Y-Cables and extensions for the rad-fans to be able to use my NZXT. Sentry Mesh Fan Controller.

Here are the part's of the water-cooling-loop I used:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> - EK-KIT H3O 240 HFX
> --- EK-Supremacy
> --- EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240)
> --- Thermaltake Dual silent 120mm variable resistor fan spinning from 1000~2000RPM (Ex-Thermaltake Bigwater 850 GT)
> --- EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)
> --- EK-RES X3 150
> 
> - 2x EK-FC780 GTX WF3 - Acetal+Nickel
> 
> - 2x EK-FC780 GTX WF3 Backplate - Black
> 
> - EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot
> 
> - 2x EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480)
> 
> - 4x XSPC 4 x 120mm Radiator Gasket - 3mm
> 
> - 2x XSPC 2 x 120mm Radiator Gasket - 3mm
> 
> - 12x BGears B-Blaster 120mm x 25mm 2000RPM High Speed Fan
> 
> - Bitspower Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe I (22-31mm) - Matte Black
> 
> - PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 1/2" OD - Brilliant UV Blue
> 
> - 3x EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (concentrate 100mL)
> 
> - several compression fittings from EK and Bitspower (G1/4 | 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD)






My Rig:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Computer Type: PC/Desktop
> System Manufacturer/Model Number: Custom-Build
> OS: Windows-8.1-RTM-Pro-WMC-Update-1-x64
> CPU: Intel Core i7 3770k @4700MHz @1.435V
> Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V
> Memory: G.Skill 16G(4*4G) DDR3-2400 Quad Channel [TDX] F3-2400C10Q-16GTX (10-11-11-28-2T) @1.690V
> Graphics Card: 2x Gigabyte GTX780-Ti-GHz-Edition-3GB in 2-Way-SLI (skyn3t BIOS-MOD | Power-Target: 116% | Temp-Target: 94C | Core-Voltage: 1.212V | Boost disabled | GPU-Clock (max stable): 1255MHz | Memory-Clock (max stable): 7800MHz)
> Sound Card: OnBoard Realtek® ALC892 8-Channel High Definition Audio
> Monitor(s) Displays: Asus VE278Q 27" Wide Led Black Full HD 2ms | Dell S2409W 24" 5ms
> Screen Resolution: 1920x1080
> Keyboard: Roccat Isku | Logitech G13 | XBox 360 Controller wired | Logitech Dual Action GamePad
> Mouse: Roccat Pure Military Camo Charge | Shogun Bros. Ballista MK-1 | Cyborg R.A.T. 7 Infection | Roccat Kone[+] | Zalman FPSGun Mouse | Logitech G9
> Mouse-Pad: Roccat Taito Mid-Size (400 x 320mm) 5mm
> PSU: Corsair AX1200i
> Case: Thermaltake Level-10 GT LCS
> Cooling: EK-H3O-HFX-240mm Liquid Cooling Kit | 2x EK-FC780 GTX WF3 Nickel Acetal | EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel 3-Slot Black Acetal | 2x EK-FC780 GTX WF3 Backplate - Black | PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 1/2" OD Brilliant UV Blue | 2x EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 480 XTX Series Liquid Cooling Radiator | 12x BGears B-Blaster 120mm x 25mm 2000RPM High Speed Fan | EK Ekoolant EVO Concentrate - Clear | EK & Bitspower Compression-Fittings G1/4
> Hard Drives: - Intel 520S 240GB/SATA3/R 550MBs,W 520MBs/25nm/3.5"Kit/5yr - Samsung 840 EVO SATA3 500GB - Seagate Barracuda SATA3 1TB 7200RPM 64mb Cache - Seagate Barracuda SATA3 1TB 7200RPM 64mb Cache - Seagate Constellation SATA3 3TB 7200RPM 64mb Cache -
> Seagate FreeAgent USB 2.0 1TB - Seagate FreeAgent USB 2.0 2TB - Seagate FreeAgent GoFlex USB 3.0 2TB
> Optical Drive: LG HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH12LS38
> Internet Speed: ADSL2+ ~15MBit/s DL | ~1MBit/s UL
> Browser: Google Chrome
> Antivirus: Windows Defender
> Other Info: - Logitech Extreme 3D Pro Joystick - Plantronics GameCom Commander 7.1 Headset - Logitech X-210 Speakers
> 
> More Details @G.Skill: Click


----------



## Boxlid

Finally switched my LSI card to water today, that thing was running toasty since I blew the fan's blades up while picking it up and moving it (doh!). It's not water cooling unless the raid card gets some love too


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxlid*
> 
> Finally switched my LSI card to water today, that thing was running toasty since I blew the fan's blades up while picking it up and moving it (doh!). It's not water cooling unless the raid card gets some love too


A watercooled raid card? Now, that's something you don't see everyday, care to share some pictures?


----------



## Boxlid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> A watercooled raid card? Now, that's something you don't see everyday, care to share some pictures?





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxlid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Any more pictures showing the card not from the top but from the side would be great


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> distilled water in my loop going on 2+ years no growth, with a kill coil only.


True.
I even re-used the same water when I changed the loop after a few months of usage. No problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I had to do some crazy things to make the GPU blocks fit my cards so I've had it leak testing for the past 18 hours. About to bring it online now
> 
> It takes seriously <5 minutes to 90% bleed the (single) loop. I took a video as some other people were having issues with reservoirs at the bottom of the case and it's never been a problem for me


Good to hear.
I also thought it would be a pain to fill with the res on the bottom.
But, what mostly concerned me was the fact that the res was that small. Must have filled that thing like 10 times?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would recommend spending the $15 on a bottle of Mayhem's clear dyes. They're all inclusive, while products like dead water only attempt to treat one possible issue.
> 
> I've had issues with weird build up when using dead water, but I'm also anal about these things. I take every single block apart for inspection every 3-6 months.


Dude.

Distilled is king.
The less additives to the water, the better.

What do you find is the advantage of buying Mayhem's Clear?

I just buy a jerrycan(5L) distilled for a few bucks, add one drop of dead water per liter and a bit of corrosion blocker. Done.


----------



## Boxlid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nice! Any more pictures showing the card not from the top but from the side would be great


Sure. Note the low clearance to those pins, had to use a couple small pieces of electrical tape. Barely squeaked it on there with the bracket, but works well since the card has a bunch of holes in it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Edit: the block looks awesome without the bracket, wouldn't have used it if the thermal tape I got didn't suck so badly.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good to hear.
> I also thought it would be a pain to fill with the res on the bottom.
> But, what mostly concerned me was the fact that the res was that small. Must have filled that thing like 10 times?


I fill it once, run the pump for a split second to push that through, then run the pump while pouring it in so that it stays almost full and doesn't suck a bubble. Very quick, very easy, no problem with mini res


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I fill it once, run the pump for a split second to push that through, then run the pump while pouring it in so that it stays almost full and doesn't suck a bubble. Very quick, very easy, no problem with mini res


Simple enough.

No I hear what you do, should I set my d5 at speed 1 and do the same?
It is probably that it sucks a bit of air because it sucks the res down so fast. I did: fill, run, stop, fill... etc etc


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> True.
> I even re-used the same water when I changed the loop after a few months of usage. No problem.
> Good to hear.
> I also thought it would be a pain to fill with the res on the bottom.
> But, what mostly concerned me was the fact that the res was that small. Must have filled that thing like 10 times?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude.
> 
> Distilled is king.
> The less additives to the water, the better.
> 
> What do you find is the advantage of buying Mayhem's Clear?
> 
> I just buy a jerrycan(5L) distilled for a few bucks, add one drop of dead water per liter and a bit of corrosion blocker. Done.


Guess I just don't understand the whole cheeping out on coolant after dumping thousands into the build.

I've had long term issues with everything, except X1. But like I said, I think I spend more time cleaning my coma than other people so based on the feedback you see when taking GPU blocks apart.


----------



## emsj86

For me t has nothing to do with cheating out. I've used mayhem pastel so far everytime and wanted to try just some dark blue dye and wasn't sure if it was better to do dead water and distilled or just distilled.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've run distilled with a kill cool my last couple of loops with no issues, my next though I'll be using Pastel since it was more for getting the loop ip and running for functionality under a tight budget


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For me t has nothing to do with cheating out. I've used mayhem pastel so far everytime and wanted to try just some dark blue dye and wasn't sure if it was better to do dead water and distilled or just distilled.


The only issue with pure water is risk factor. You run a higher risk of running into issues. It isn't guaranteed, but you open yourself up to a higher probability of developing growth and/or corrosion.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The only issue with pure water is risk factor. You run a higher risk of running into issues. It isn't guaranteed, but you open yourself up to a higher probability of developing growth and/or corrosion.


Do you have something to back that up?

Corrosion also happens with pre-mixed stuff...

And like I said, I don't run pure.
I do add deadwater and corrosion blocker.


----------



## aka13

Shouldnt the best theoretical coolant be the car antifreeze?


----------



## sinnedone

So I want to see if I can clean my alpha cool rads really good.

Been thinking about vinegar for cleaning.

If I have regular house white distilled to 5% vinegar, how many parts water should I use to clean with?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Shouldnt the best theoretical coolant be the car antifreeze?


antifreeze is bad for acrylic. From what I understand, it will spiderweb the acrylic, pretty quickly. This is why people who make home made coolant have to be very careful when using products like Water Wetter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Do you have something to back that up?
> 
> Corrosion also happens with pre-mixed stuff...
> 
> And like I said, I don't run pure.
> I do add deadwater and corrosion blocker.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So I want to see if I can clean my alpha cool rads really good.
> 
> Been thinking about vinegar for cleaning.
> 
> If I have regular house white distilled to 5% vinegar, how many parts water should I use to clean with?


If you haven't allready check out mayhems blitz part 1 and 2. That's what it's made for. Also see mayhems club thread for any. ?s or info if you haven't allready considered it


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Shouldnt the best theoretical coolant be the car antifreeze?


Not at all, car antifreeze is iirc, just distilled water and glycol, the more glycol you add, the lower the performance of your coolant, it only makes sense for sub zero cooling.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Shouldnt the best theoretical coolant be the car antifreeze?


best in what way? water is king. It is the best coolant. The potential problem is corrosion which happen anyways. Then the question becomes for how long would you want to use the parts and if you can or not slow down the corrosion process. BTW the usual car antifreeze is ehylene glycol which was (and still is in some) what made the water cooling liquids for a while.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/


----------



## Recr3ational

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GRAY






What an amazing build. Nice work.

I don't usually post here as the work some of you guys do is crazy but this is my final version of my first build.
I refuse to get rid of my beloved 600T.
I'm pretty bad with a camera.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So I want to see if I can clean my alpha cool rads really good.
> 
> Been thinking about vinegar for cleaning.
> 
> If I have regular house white distilled to 5% vinegar, how many parts water should I use to clean with?


Look at the concentration of acetic acid in your vinegar. I had no issues with 1% (by volume) acid net after dilution. But if you can score phosphoric acid (H3PO4) from somewhere and do 1% of that, then even better.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> 
> What an amazing build. Nice work.
> 
> I don't usually post here as the work some of you guys do is crazy but this is my final version of my first build.
> I refuse to get rid of my beloved 600T.
> I'm pretty bad with a camera.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is immaculate! You did a great job, thank you for sharing it







.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Shouldnt the best theoretical coolant be the car antifreeze?


Have fun reading:
pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So I want to see if I can clean my alpha cool rads really good.
> 
> Been thinking about vinegar for cleaning.
> 
> If I have regular house white distilled to 5% vinegar, how many parts water should I use to clean with?


Personally I use 75% distilled and 25% vinegar.
I really don't pay much attention to which vinegar, I even used wine-vinegar.









edit:
Oops, other reply's are way different.
Am I doing it wrong?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> antifreeze is bad for acrylic. From what I understand, it will spiderweb the acrylic, pretty quickly. This is why people who make home made coolant have to be very careful when using products like Water Wetter.


Discard my previous reply. Stressy day.









You are right, pure water is risky.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> 
> What an amazing build. Nice work.
> 
> I don't usually post here as the work some of you guys do is crazy but this is my final version of my first build.
> I refuse to get rid of my beloved 600T.
> I'm pretty bad with a camera.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love it.
It looks minimalistic somehow, which I like a lot.

Also the fan controller on the inside is nice. Don't know why.









Good work dude.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Shouldnt the best theoretical coolant be the car antifreeze?


No, antifreeze is a pretty bad conductor, and is only corrosion inhibiting as a side-effect.

The best at transferring heat is pure water, and you want as little other rubbish in your loop as possible. Washing your hands before installing your water cooling loop probably would help more to longevity than CuSO4.

_Edit: ninja'd by everyone, but still: wash your hands!_


----------



## morencyam

Nice work Rec! Very minimalistic. And the lighting isn't too overpowering. What fittings are you using. I've been contemplating going hardline tubing and I like those


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> That is immaculate! You did a great job, thank you for sharing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thank you, that's nice to hear. Its slightly dusty and I was to lazy to clean it haha.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Nice work Rec! Very minimalistic. And the lighting isn't too overpowering. What fittings are you using. I've been contemplating going hardline tubing and I like those


Sorry didn't see your message.
I'm using Primochill Rigid tubing fittings.
I love them, although the tubing are a bit expensive.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> I don't usually post here as the work some of you guys do is crazy but this is my final version of my first build.
> I refuse to get rid of my beloved 600T.
> I'm pretty bad with a camera.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great man.









Very clean overall, I normally don't like colored led lighting and carbon wrap, but you managed to do it very tastefully.
Also, imo the 600T looks way better than any of the new graphite cases, and your pictures are fine.

A very minor thing i don't like are these tho:


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Sorry didn't see your message.
> I'm using Primochill Rigid tubing fittings.
> I love them, although the tubing are a bit expensive.


Thanks. I'm thinking about looking into Barrow hardline fittings and getting tube from McMaster-Carr to try and cut expenses a little bit


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Looks great man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very clean overall, I normally don't like colored led lighting and carbon wrap, but you managed to do it very tastefully.
> Also, imo the 600T looks way better than any of the new graphite cases, and your pictures are fine.
> 
> A very minor thing i don't like are these tho:


Nor do I haha but there's a scratch that I have to cover up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Thanks. I'm thinking about looking into Barrow hardline fittings and getting tube from McMaster-Carr to try and cut expenses a little bit


Yeah barrows looks good. I would of bought them if I found them before the Primochills.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun reading:
> pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/
> Personally I use 75% distilled and 25% vinegar.
> I really don't pay much attention to which vinegar, I even used wine-vinegar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Oops, other reply's are way different.
> Am I doing it wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Discard my previous reply. Stressy day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are right, pure water is risky.
> 
> 
> I love it.
> It looks minimalistic somehow, which I like a lot.
> 
> Also the fan controller on the inside is nice. Don't know why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good work dude


Thank you








The fan controller is inside the case because its a 3.25 not a 5.25 plus I don't have any bays as I have an acrylic front panel.


----------



## Chopper1591

People.

I am looking at which temp sensor to buy.
My eye fell on this one:


Should I be good if I plug that one i one of the ports of an EK xtc rad?


Should that give a good monitor of the water temp?
Or is it better to buy an in-line sensor? Got no display yet, so the above combo would be nice.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> People.
> 
> I am looking at which temp sensor to buy.
> My eye fell on this one:
> 
> 
> Should I be good if I plug that one i one of the ports of an EK xtc rad?
> 
> 
> Should that give a good monitor of the water temp?
> Or is it better to buy an in-line sensor? Got no display yet, so the above combo would be nice.


Seen those sensors before. They die often. The dude I bought my binned 4790k off went through 4 of those sensors in 6 weeks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> People.
> 
> I am looking at which temp sensor to buy.
> My eye fell on this one:
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2316363/width/350/height/700[/IMG]
> 
> Should I be good if I plug that one i one of the ports of an EK xtc rad?
> 
> 
> 
> Should that give a good monitor of the water temp?
> Or is it better to buy an in-line sensor? Got no display yet, so the above combo would be nice.


sounds like a good plan if you have spare ports (more than 2) on your rad. I use the bitspower one as well as barrows. They are fine but no lcd if that is important to you. Still, even without the lcd you can plug to temp sensor header on your MB if you don't have a fan control capable to input the temp sensor.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Thanks. I'm thinking about looking into Barrow hardline fittings and getting tube from McMaster-Carr to try and cut expenses a little bit


Just a quick heads up, the tubing I received from McMaster was covered in tiny scratches. That was PETG, no idea if their acrylic is the same way.

@Recr3ational That looks really good. Nice job!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Just a quick heads up, the tubing I received from McMaster was covered in tiny scratches. That was PETG, no idea if their acrylic is the same way.
> 
> @Recr3ational That looks really good. Nice job!


Thanks for the heads up. Nothing is set in stone yet, just getting some pricing together to see if it's worth it. I'll keep that in mind when I source the tubing.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Seen those sensors before. They die often. The dude I bought my binned 4790k off went through 4 of those sensors in 6 weeks


Oops.
Thats not good. Haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> sounds like a good plan if you have spare ports (more than 2) on your rad. I use the bitspower one as well as barrows. They are fine but no lcd if that is important to you. Still, even without the lcd you can plug to temp sensor header on your MB if you don't have a fan control capable to input the temp sensor.


Can you explain this?
How can your MB read a temp sensor?

I had no idea that could be done. If it will work with my board I would be very happy. I prefer to read it through software much more then a cheap lcd screen.

In that case this one should be much better, I guess. With that one I won't have to buy an male to male g1/4 adapter.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GRAY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Anyone mind explaining to me how this is possible? doesn't the water just flow through the GPU port, through CPU block and back through 2nd GPU port? making more or less no flow through the GPU block itself?? :S
Looks really good though!

*Edit
Never mind.. I just figured it out.. same as parallel GPU setup, just fun to see it this way








I guess if the restrictions of the GPU block and CPU block is the same (or at least close to) this should work nicely.. also looks awesome!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Oops.
> Thats not good. Haha.
> Can you explain this?
> How can your MB read a temp sensor?
> 
> I had no idea that could be done. If it will work with my board I would be very happy. I prefer to read it through software much more then a cheap lcd screen.
> 
> In that case this one should be much better, I guess. With that one I won't have to buy an male to male g1/4 adapter.


seems like your MB does not have any temp header... Sorry. No all but several boards have two pin header to install temp sensors. Those inline are good and personally I didn't have any problems with it but several users reported leaking from it. IN any case you will need a fan controller with temp sensor header available to be able to read it. Or, not sure about that, but I think that small XSPC lcd is avaliable as a stand alone unit...
edit- nope. that lcd is not available as a stand alone although you most likely can replace the temp sensor/cap for any other I would guess.


----------



## emsj86

Petg if you go that route is cheap 4 lengths 36inch for 10 dollars at ppc


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> seems like your MB does not have any temp header... Sorry. No all but several boards have two pin header to install temp sensors. Those inline are good and personally I didn't have any problems with it but several users reported leaking from it. IN any case you will need a fan controller with temp sensor header available to be able to read it. Or, not sure about that, but I think that small XSPC lcd is avaliable as a stand alone unit...


*sigh*

Choosing parts is hard.








You choose. Haha.

*What would you guys get from this store to monitor water temp:*
temp-meters


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> *sigh*
> 
> Choosing parts is hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You choose. Haha.
> 
> *What would you guys get from this store to monitor water temp:*
> temp-meters


I have two of these in my loop connected to my Lamptron Fan Controller Touch and they work wonderfully. I have the two inline sensors on channels 1 and 2 respectively, then have 4 air probes on the remaining 4 channels(rad 1 air in and air out, rad 2 air in and air out. The air probes are probably overkill, but it's interesting to see the deltas between all three different probe positions

Since it sounds like you don't have a fan controller capable of reading temps, you could probably mod one of those XSPC probes with LCD screen to use the inline sensor I linked instead of the plug that comes standard on the XSPC probe/screen combo


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> *sigh*
> 
> Choosing parts is hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You choose. Haha.
> 
> *What would you guys get from this store to monitor water temp:*
> temp-meters


it seems this one will allow you to read two sensors:

http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/flow-temp-meters/temp-meters/scythe-kama-thermo-3-tm03-bk.html

BUt then again you will have to buy the water temp sensor for it (whatever type or brand). Could, if I understood this correctly read an air temp on channel 1 and a water temp in channel 2 (or vice versa). BUt honestly, and this only you can reach a conclusion, does it justify the price for your needs? Would you be better off getting a fan controller with temp sensors capability in it?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it seems this one will allow you to read two sensors:
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/flow-temp-meters/temp-meters/scythe-kama-thermo-3-tm03-bk.html
> 
> BUt then again you will have to buy the water temp sensor for it (whatever type or brand). Could, if I understood this correctly read an air temp on channel 1 and a water temp in channel 2 (or vice versa). BUt honestly, and this only you can reach a conclusion, does it justify the price for your needs? Would you be better off getting a fan controller with temp sensors capability in it?


That is what is my problem...
Is it worth it.

Now I regret I went with a Sentry Mesh fan controller:


I went with that one in the first place because it can control 30 watts per channel. I wanted to control the three Gentle Typhoon ap-15's on my radiator with one channel.

*Edit:*

Do you guys think this one will do the trick? You can change the stock sensors with an inline one, right?
http://www.aerocool.us/peripheral/touch1000/touch1000_feature.htm


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That is what is my problem...
> Is it worth it.
> 
> Now I regret I went with a Sentry Mesh fan controller:
> 
> 
> I went with that one in the first place because it can control 30 watts per channel. I wanted to control the three Gentle Typhoon ap-15's on my radiator with one channel.
> 
> *Edit:*
> 
> Do you guys think this one will do the trick? You can change the stock sensors with an inline one, right?
> http://www.aerocool.us/peripheral/touch1000/touch1000_feature.htm


Looks like that only has 6w per channel.
I would look at this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12285/bus-243/Lamptron_FC_Touch_-_30W_-_6_Channel_Aluminum_Rheobus_w_Touch_Screen_-_Black_FCT_HOT_ITEM.html?tl=g47c17


----------



## Gabrielzm

or this @Chopper1591

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25196/bus-397/Aquacomputer_USB_Poweradjust_3_-_Ultra_Version_53167.html

or aquaero 5 lt and be done with it. But is costs 75 bucks.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Looks like that only has 6w per channel.
> I would look at this
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12285/bus-243/Lamptron_FC_Touch_-_30W_-_6_Channel_Aluminum_Rheobus_w_Touch_Screen_-_Black_FCT_HOT_ITEM.html?tl=g47c17


I second the Lamptron FC Touch. I've had mine for about 3.5 years and love it. As stated in my previous post, I am using all 6 temp probe channels, 2 inline water temp sensors and 4 air temp sensors, and it works very well


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have two of these in my loop connected to my Lamptron Fan Controller Touch and they work wonderfully. I have the two inline sensors on channels 1 and 2 respectively, then have 4 air probes on the remaining 4 channels(rad 1 air in and air out, rad 2 air in and air out. The air probes are probably overkill, but it's interesting to see the deltas between all three different probe positions
> 
> Since it sounds like you don't have a fan controller capable of reading temps, you could probably mod one of those XSPC probes with LCD screen to use the inline sensor I linked instead of the plug that comes standard on the XSPC probe/screen combo


Huh, I did not have to mod my XSPC screen at all. I just plugged the Aquacomputer inline probe, and it works very well. Than again, I am the crazy ex jet mech that takes pliers to all my barbs.







So far no problems.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Huh, I did not have to mod my XSPC screen at all. I just plugged the Aquacomputer inline probe, and it works very well. Than again, I am the crazy ex jet mech that takes pliers to all my barbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far no problems.


I believe the new version, the one that Chopper posted, has the temp probe plug permanently attached to the LCD screen. I may be wrong though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> People.
> 
> I am looking at which temp sensor to buy.
> My eye fell on this one:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Should I be good if I plug that one i one of the ports of an EK xtc rad?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should that give a good monitor of the water temp?
> Or is it better to buy an in-line sensor? Got no display yet, so the above combo would be nice.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I believe the new version, the one that Chopper posted, has the temp probe plug permanently attached to the LCD screen. I may be wrong though.


Dang, that is a bummer. Why the heck XSPC do that for?

Performance PC still got the V2 of that screen plus without the probe for sell.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's why I like mine where I can attach the plug to the LCD


----------



## aka13

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Black-Digital-Temperature-Gauge-Thermometer-For-Fish-Terrarium-Water-Marinee-/230979118518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item35c76da5b6

You could just solder it the way you need. They all use the same thermoresistors, no need to pay for "premium" products.


----------



## Bluemustang

Or how about this? http://www.performance-pcs.com/reeven-rfc-02-six-eyes-ii-fan-controller-black.html#Additional-Information
30 watts/channel, 6 channels, braided cables, has a broad voltage range unlike some others etc... seems great to me.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Or how about this? http://www.performance-pcs.com/reeven-rfc-02-six-eyes-ii-fan-controller-black.html#Additional-Information
> 30 watts/channel, 6 channels, braided cables, has a broad voltage range unlike some others etc... seems great to me.


My brother in law has this controller and loves it. I've seen a few other use it as well and have never heard anything bad about it.


----------



## USMC Modder

New to OCN but here's mine for now. I will be ripping it all apart soon and starting a new build in a Caselabs S5.


----------



## snef

a little teaser of night shot

with Darkside white led

Final shoot really soon





now im working on " White Insanity". my next project
need to find a better name


----------



## DarthBaggins

Those DarkSide LED's sure pump out the light


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Those DarkSide LED's sure pump out the light


I like them a lot but the shape of the diffusion comes off in straight lines and can be unsightly white on black glossy finish.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That is what is my problem...
> Is it worth it.
> 
> Now I regret I went with a Sentry Mesh fan controller:
> 
> 
> I went with that one in the first place because it can control 30 watts per channel. I wanted to control the three Gentle Typhoon ap-15's on my radiator with one channel.
> 
> *Edit:*
> 
> Do you guys think this one will do the trick? You can change the stock sensors with an inline one, right?
> http://www.aerocool.us/peripheral/touch1000/touch1000_feature.htm


Its 30w PER channel. More then enough. I had good use of one before it failed. The Mix 2 is better and thus far, reliable. I have a barely used one. The first one I had handle d 52 fans. I went without the controller for this build since I wanted a clean fascia. This second one is just sitting in my parts bin (hardwired the psu's 5v to hubs for my 14 sp120's.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm trying to find a good one that can handle my Delta's since a cheapo KingWin I had couldn't handle them. I also have an AeroCool F6XT but haven't even wanted to attempt to hook those power hungry fans up to it lol


----------



## GrimDoctor

I notice most people here go with a separate pump and reservoir (from what I can tell), is their a particular reason?

Is there a disadvantage to these?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29101


----------



## DarthBaggins

The only reason I did was due to cost.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> I notice most people here go with a separate pump and reservoir (from what I can tell), is their a particular reason?
> 
> Is there a disadvantage to these?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29101


The disadvantage would be that it rather precludes a top return. . . Especially if you want the top as a fill / vent port.

You need to use the inlet on the pump housing for the return, and because there's then so little actual circulation thru the res chamber itself, if you're using any kind of nano particle coolant, they tend to drop out of suspension and don't necessarily pick up well again.

If you use plain distilled or maybe a clear or X1 type coolant, you could be OK, but I'd keep a 10 foot pole between a pastel or aurora and that type of res.

Darlene


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The disadvantage would be that it rather precludes a top return. . . Especially if you want the top as a fill / vent port.
> 
> You need to use the inlet on the pump housing for the return, and because there's then so little actual circulation thru the res chamber itself, if you're using any kind of nano particle coolant, they tend to drop out of suspension and don't necessarily pick up well again.
> 
> If you use plain distilled or maybe a clear or X1 type coolant, you could be OK, but I'd keep a 10 foot pole between a pastel or aurora and that type of res.
> 
> Darlene


Perfect, thank you. I wouldn't be using any particle coolant but the other points you made are very useful, especially the your point on filling.
Thank you +


----------



## wermad

I had a ddc koolance top w/ their res tube. Ran pastel sunset yellow with no issues.

The advantage in having separate res an pump is you can pick any of each. Res-top combos are limited to compatibility, which is typically the same make.

In my experience, the combo typically purges the air that gets trapped in the impeller a bit quicker. Other then this, an advantage is the space saver it can be (and less fittings needed to connect as well).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Huh, I did not have to mod my XSPC screen at all. I just plugged the Aquacomputer inline probe, and it works very well. Than again, I am the crazy ex jet mech that takes pliers to all my barbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far no problems.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the new version, the one that Chopper posted, has the temp probe plug permanently attached to the LCD screen. I may be wrong though.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> People.
> 
> I am looking at which temp sensor to buy.
> My eye fell on this one:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Should I be good if I plug that one i one of the ports of an EK xtc rad?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should that give a good monitor of the water temp?
> Or is it better to buy an in-line sensor? Got no display yet, so the above combo would be nice.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I would get ring temp sensors and just put them in at the block rather than purchase an extra fitting to install them off kilter and add a dead spot in the loop. You're likely to get better results. Cheaper as well.

~Ceadder


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Dang, that is a bummer. Why the heck XSPC do that for?
> 
> Performance PC still got the V2 of that screen plus without the probe for sell.


I bought the V2 from Amazon about 2 weeks ago and it wasn't soldered.


----------



## emsj86

@snef the night time photos really make everything pop more. the blue seems darker and brighter at the same time. I know doesnt make sense but looks awesome


----------



## emsj86

What can of paint brand/kind should I get to paint the rubber parts of the sp120 fans (the grey part) and should I paint them blue to match he rings or black?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What can of paint brand/kind should I get to paint the rubber parts of the sp120 fans (the grey part) and should I paint them blue to match he rings or black?


You mean the frame? I'd paint them black. Black pretty much goes with everything.

After a year of procrastinating, finally soldered and sleeved my EBay LED's.

I need to play with the angle of the LED's. I think its too much white.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What can of paint brand/kind should I get to paint the rubber parts of the sp120 fans (the grey part) and should I paint them blue to match he rings or black?


Painting flexible items is not a good idea. Whether it's tubing or rubber/silicon. The paint will quickly start cracking, flaking and chipping off the more it is handled. Standard upkeep(i.e. Fan and Radiator dusting) and your fans will look trashy in no time at all. I do not recommend it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What can of paint brand/kind should I get to paint the rubber parts of the sp120 fans (the grey part) and should I paint them blue to match he rings or black?


Since they are rubber, you could try dying them? Both blue and black should work. The blue might be harder since you are starting with a grey base. I died some GT fan blades black, worked pretty well.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## c3LaL35

an image in the final system


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Looks like that only has 6w per channel.
> I would look at this
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12285/bus-243/Lamptron_FC_Touch_-_30W_-_6_Channel_Aluminum_Rheobus_w_Touch_Screen_-_Black_FCT_HOT_ITEM.html?tl=g47c17


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I second the Lamptron FC Touch. I've had mine for about 3.5 years and love it. As stated in my previous post, I am using all 6 temp probe channels, 2 inline water temp sensors and 4 air temp sensors, and it works very well


The FC Touch seems to be pretty cheap where I live:

What about this one?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I believe the new version, the one that Chopper posted, has the temp probe plug permanently attached to the LCD screen. I may be wrong though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Dang, that is a bummer. Why the heck XSPC do that for?
> 
> Performance PC still got the V2 of that screen plus without the probe for sell.


The one I posted earlier is really a no-name brand.
It's not the one from xspc, they do sell that one too though:
http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/flow-temp-meters/temp-meters/xspc-lcd-display-temperature-sensor-white.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Black-Digital-Temperature-Gauge-Thermometer-For-Fish-Terrarium-Water-Marinee-/230979118518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item35c76da5b6
> 
> You could just solder it the way you need. They all use the same thermoresistors, no need to pay for "premium" products.


Dang. That is really a cheap option.
I might actually consider that. Could just buy 3 of them in case it fails early. Would still be dirt cheap.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Or how about this? http://www.performance-pcs.com/reeven-rfc-02-six-eyes-ii-fan-controller-black.html#Additional-Information
> 30 watts/channel, 6 channels, braided cables, has a broad voltage range unlike some others etc... seems great to me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its 30w PER channel. More then enough. I had good use of one before it failed. The Mix 2 is better and thus far, reliable. I have a barely used one. The first one I had handle d 52 fans. I went without the controller for this build since I wanted a clean fascia. This second one is just sitting in my parts bin (hardwired the psu's 5v to hubs for my 14 sp120's.


I forgot to mention, I guess. I am from the Netherlands so buying from performannce-pcs will be a no go.
The shipping costs are insane.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would get ring temp sensors and just put them in at the block rather than purchase an extra fitting to install them off kilter and add a dead spot in the loop. You're likely to get better results. Cheaper as well.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yep, I got my eye on one of those.
I posted the plug sensor because It came bundled with an screen.

The one I will probably grab is this one:
clicky

Is there any difference in where I mount it?
Thinking about placing it on the inlet of the reservoir(bay combo), or should I plug it into one of the radiator in/outs?


----------



## Bluemustang

I was planning to plug my thermal sensor into one of the threads on my alphacool rads, i figured it would get more flow and quicker fresh water (so quicker to sense temp changes) than in the reservoir.

I was also planning to plug mine into the reeven six eyes 2 controller i linked.

The reeven (like many other fan controllers) has 2 pin temp probes that you can put anywhere in your case. So does anyone know for sure if that fan controller (since it uses 2 pin temp probes already) will accept any 2 pin temp probe that i plug in to read water temps? Such as the one chopper listed or a bitspower one i was planning on using.

Some of them say 10kohm and im not sure if that could conflict and damage anything or if the 2 pin temp probes have any differences between the different ones.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I was planning to plug my thermal sensor into one of the threads on my alphacool rads, i figured it would get more flow and quicker fresh water (so quicker to sense temp changes) than in the reservoir.
> 
> I was also planning to plug mine into the reeven six eyes 2 controller i linked.
> 
> The reeven (like many other fan controllers) has 2 pin temp probes that you can put anywhere in your case. So does anyone know for sure if that fan controller (since it uses 2 pin temp probes already) will accept any 2 pin temp probe that i plug in to read water temps? Such as the one chopper listed or a bitspower one i was planning on using.
> 
> Some of them say 10kohm and im not sure if that could conflict and damage anything or if the 2 pin temp probes have any differences between the different ones.


The vast majority of fan controllers on the market today use the same 10K ohm NTC sensors. The same ones used in all the after market ones too.

Using the wrong spec sensor cannot do any damage, it will simply be way off in its reading. The sensors use a material that changes resistance by a very large degree as its temperature changes.


----------



## aka13

ANd for testing that, it's easy - temp reading too high, sensor resistance too low, and vice versa.


----------



## Bluemustang

Cool thanks. Hope the fan controller can also read the RPMs from 8 fans hooked to 1 channel (same fans, 8 fans per 480 rad, got 2) plugged in via nzxt fan hub.

If not oh well but itd be nice.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What can of paint brand/kind should I get to paint the rubber parts of the sp120 fans (the grey part) and should I paint them blue to match he rings or black?


PlastiDip black has a great matte look if you apply it carefully. It's basically liquid rubber spray, so it won't crack and you can peel it off later if you want a different colour or the original surface.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c3LaL35*
> 
> an image in the final system


Oww, my eyes!









Looking good - I like the external rad. What are you doing to power all those fans out there?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Cool thanks. Hope the fan controller can also read the RPMs from 8 fans hooked to 1 channel (same fans, 8 fans per 480 rad, got 2) plugged in via nzxt fan hub.
> 
> If not oh well but itd be nice.


That will most likely not work. What you want to do is use the speed signal from only a single fan.
Some fan hubs and splitter cables are already designed and wired that way. They will have one header labled as the one with the RPM signal.

I'm not familiar with the NZXT one. If it does have all RPM lines connected as some boards do then there are a few ways to modify it to a single RPM line.

You can clip the RPM pins off of all the headers on the NZXT board and leave one intact. I just use specific extension cables with my boards that don't have RPM lines. Or you you can just depin the RPM line from all the fans and leave it sitting outside the connector.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That will most likely not work. What you want to do is use the speed signal from only a single fan.
> Some fan hubs and splitter cables are already designed and wired that way. They will have one header labled as the one with the RPM signal.
> 
> I'm not familiar with the NZXT one. If it does have all RPM lines connected as some boards do then there are a few ways to modify it to a single RPM line.
> 
> You can clip the RPM pins off of all the headers on the NZXT board and leave one intact. I just use specific extension cables with my boards that don't have RPM lines. Or you you can just depin the RPM line from all the fans and leave it sitting outside the connector.


Specific extension cables? What cables would work for connecting 8 fans (well, 16 actually plus 3 case fans, i figured id control all the fans from 1 radiator per fan channel)? I bought the nzxt grids because im pretty sure theres no Y-Splitters for such a use. Not unless you daisy chained a crap load of them, but thatd be quite a mess.

Good to know theres a workaround though, thanks. Curious though how do i know which pin is the RPM line? (on the fan hubs, id rather not deface/mod all the fans)


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Specific extension cables? What cables would work for connecting 8 fans (well, 16 actually plus 3 case fans, i figured id control all the fans from 1 radiator per fan channel)? I bought the nzxt grids because im pretty sure theres no Y-Splitters for such a use. Not unless you daisy chained a crap load of them, but thatd be quite a mess.


Are we talking PWM or DC fans?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Are we talking PWM or DC fans?


3 pin fans


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> 3 pin fans


Ok then this would help:
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html

Up to 11 fans using splitters, controlled and monitored by a PWM header on your motherboard or a PWM fan controller.


----------



## anti-clockwize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I love the look of it but it really could be so much more. Even though it's hard to perfect perfection. I guess the stuff I'd like to see is more or less my OCD stuffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


yeah nice build, i like the white scheme, but then i this is the first white/blue build ive seen.
speaking of OCD, imo it would be perfect if you painted the grill on the psu white and the fan blue







but that's my ocd coz now all i can see is that needing to be done heh


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> 3 pin fans
> 
> 
> 
> Ok then this would help:
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html
> 
> Up to 11 fans using splitters, controlled and monitored by a PWM header on your motherboard or a PWM fan controller.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't recommend the Phanteks hub to my worst enemy. OK, actually I would, but that would be the point.



Spoiler: Why I hate the Phanteks so-called pwm hub



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...] The Phanteks PWM hub is not a "PWM hub' in the way most people would think of one. It is supposed to allow you to use a PWM header on a mobo to control the speeds on up to 30w of 3-pin voltage controlled fans. It does so by using the PWM duty cycle to modulate the 12v current to the fans. It's a bit buggy / trouble-prone, and a LOT of people have had trouble getting it to work with their fans / motherboard. Just do a search of the Phanteks Club thread for 'hub' and if you spend any amount of time weeding though the results you'll see what I mean. For those who do manage to get theirs to work for them, they do seem to like it, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Besides that, modulating the 12V current like the Phanteks hub does doesn't always offer a very wide range of control even when it does work right, often causes some fans to make a clicking sound, and can actually damage or shorten the lifespan of your fans.
> 
> Example:
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There are PWM controllers and there are PWM fans, but the way in which PWM is implemented in each differs greatly: a standard PWM controller modulates the 12 V supply line of an "ordinary" 12 VDC motor. Conversely a PWM controller for PWM fans - such as the one featured in this article - doesn't modulate the 12V supply line but instead sends a PWM signal along a different supply line (the magic "fourth wire") to a more advanced 12 VDC motor, leaving the 12 V supply line uninterrupted. Designated PWM fans not only have internal circuitry which differs from that of standard fans, but because they are designed with speed control in mind the motors themselves are usually more advanced (and expensive). So, PWM speed control of a standard fan is indeed very different from PWM speed control of a PWM fan&#8230; *Nidec even goes so far as to say that modulating the main supply voltage is not advisable:
> *
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> _. Pulse-width modulation of dc operating voltage to modify fan speed is not recommended. Transients generated by that approach can irreversibly damage motor commutation and control electronics and dramatically shorten the life of a fan._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I wouldn't recommend the Phanteks hub to my worst enemy. OK, actually I would, but that would be the point.


I've been running two without issue and put them in 3 customer builds without issue.

Bit extreme with your comment but that's your choice I guess.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Ok then this would help:
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html
> 
> Up to 11 fans using splitters, controlled and monitored by a PWM header on your motherboard or a PWM fan controller.


Thanks but i considered that one, dont want anymore cables hooked up to my mobo than necessary. Hence the hubs and fan controller. Oh and plus im going to use the fan controller to control LED strips, so 2 birds with 1 stone.

And it serves the same purpose, albeit a bit cheaper


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Specific extension cables? What cables would work for connecting 8 fans (well, 16 actually plus 3 case fans, i figured id control all the fans from 1 radiator per fan channel)? I bought the nzxt grids because im pretty sure theres no Y-Splitters for such a use. Not unless you daisy chained a crap load of them, but thatd be quite a mess.
> 
> Good to know theres a workaround though, thanks. Curious though how do i know which pin is the RPM line? (on the fan hubs, id rather not deface/mod all the fans)


There are a few different ones available. This is just one
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12600/cab-436/Phobya_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_3-Pin_to_9x_3-Pin_-_Black.html?tl=g47c251s635
It has a single header labled as the RPM header

The specific extensions I mentioned that I use are just ordinary single fan extensions and I just removed the RPM wire from them. That works well with fans like my Eloops because they have connectors right at the fan and come with two different length cables so you can adjust them easily. Its less convenient on normal fans with normal length, single piece cables.

Just google fan pinout to see a million pictures showing which line is the RPM line


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There are a few different ones available. This is just one
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12600/cab-436/Phobya_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_3-Pin_to_9x_3-Pin_-_Black.html?tl=g47c251s635
> 
> It has a single header labled as the RPM header


Hmm interesting. Those have any problem pulling around 30 watts of power?

Though, since i already ordered the NZXT grids, how can i know which pins (on the hub) that are the rpm signal to remove? (I think its the right one (or left depending on the orientation it plugs in) but not positive).

On topic, look forward to posting my build in the coming weeks. Corsair 900D, PETG hard tubing (minimal fittings, lots of bends), pastel ice white in clear tubing, clear GPU SLI terminal, clear cpu block in a black case with some black accents and (hopefully that i can find proper) blueish whiteish lighting.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I wouldn't recommend the Phanteks hub to my worst enemy. OK, actually I would, but that would be the point.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Why I hate the Phanteks so-called pwm hub
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...] The Phanteks PWM hub is not a "PWM hub' in the way most people would think of one. It is supposed to allow you to use a PWM header on a mobo to control the speeds on up to 30w of 3-pin voltage controlled fans. It does so by using the PWM duty cycle to modulate the 12v current to the fans. It's a bit buggy / trouble-prone, and a LOT of people have had trouble getting it to work with their fans / motherboard. Just do a search of the Phanteks Club thread for 'hub' and if you spend any amount of time weeding though the results you'll see what I mean. For those who do manage to get theirs to work for them, they do seem to like it, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Besides that, modulating the 12V current like the Phanteks hub does doesn't always offer a very wide range of control even when it does work right, often causes some fans to make a clicking sound, and can actually damage or shorten the lifespan of your fans.
> 
> Example:
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There are PWM controllers and there are PWM fans, but the way in which PWM is implemented in each differs greatly: a standard PWM controller modulates the 12 V supply line of an "ordinary" 12 VDC motor. Conversely a PWM controller for PWM fans - such as the one featured in this article - doesn't modulate the 12V supply line but instead sends a PWM signal along a different supply line (the magic "fourth wire") to a more advanced 12 VDC motor, leaving the 12 V supply line uninterrupted. Designated PWM fans not only have internal circuitry which differs from that of standard fans, but because they are designed with speed control in mind the motors themselves are usually more advanced (and expensive). So, PWM speed control of a standard fan is indeed very different from PWM speed control of a PWM fan&#8230; *Nidec even goes so far as to say that modulating the main supply voltage is not advisable:
> *
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> _. Pulse-width modulation of dc operating voltage to modify fan speed is not recommended. Transients generated by that approach can irreversibly damage motor commutation and control electronics and dramatically shorten the life of a fan._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've been running two without issue and put them in 3 customer builds without issue.
> 
> Bit extreme with your comment but that's your choice I guess.
Click to expand...

I'm just soooo sick and tired of all the posts from so many people who cannot get the Phanteks hub to work at all for them. I've rarely seen more complaints/problems about any product of any type in my life. Dozens upon dozens of people have posted in the Phanteks Club thread in the past year or so since they unveiled that hub, sometimes several different people in the same day, and for many of them it just doesn't work for them no matter what they try. I come to suspect, but I'm not sure, it's similar to the PWM D5 pump in that it doesn't properly follow the PWM standard and depends on how the mobo implements PWM whether or not that particular mobo's PWM header will work well or at all with it or not. Either that or there's just an astronomical failure rate on the new hubs.

And to top it off, as I pointed out with the linked excerpt in the spoiler'd part my last post, the approach the Phanteks hub uses to control speeds of 3-pin fans is a hack at best and not good for fans in general. Some fans will tolerate modulating the 12v supply better than others, but I wouldn't put any of my fans on anything of the sort. To each their own.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm just soooo sick and tired of all the posts from so many people who cannot get the Phanteks hub to work at all for them. I've rarely seen more complaints/problems about any product of any type in my life. Dozens upon dozens of people have posted in the Phanteks Club thread in the past year or so since they unveiled that hub, sometimes several different people in the same day, and for many of them it just doesn't work for them no matter what they try. I come to suspect, but I'm not sure, it's similar to the PWM D5 pump in that it doesn't properly follow the PWM standard and depends on how the mobo implements PWM whether or not that particular mobo's PWM header will work well or at all with it or not. Either that or there's just an astronomical failure rate on the new hubs.
> 
> And to top it off, as I pointed out with the linked excerpt in the spoiler'd part my last post, the approach the Phanteks hub uses to control speeds of 3-pin fans is a hack at best and not good for fans in general. Some fans will tolerate modulating the 12v supply better than others, but I wouldn't put any of my fans on anything of the sort. To each their own.


Awwww Nawwwww. Poor pettle, is it really that bad? Start a change.org petition.

Lol, just jokes, I wouldn't use the things either.








Its a cheap solution and you get cheap results sometimes.

I was horrified when that guy was using them with an Aquaero 6


----------



## skupples

I rather use phobya fan hubs, though I've noticed that lot of fans don't like to stick in them, so i picked up 100 female terminals after trying 5 different types. The ones I settled with have the biggest bump on them.


----------



## Bluemustang

Man.....after searching and searching google i cant find any information on how much power this Phobya 9 fan splitter can carry. You'd think someone in marketing might have an inkling that thats important info?

There was another 9 fan splitter by darkside too but they actually labled it (smart eh?) 2 amps max, i need minimum 2.4 amps or 28.8 watts (probably nominal, not sure about peak, These Fans).

I'd really like to cancel my order for the nzxt grids but i know how much power the grid can handle but that phobya splitter doesnt want to list it (just says make sure your header has enough power). They might lose money cause of something so stupid.

PS: PPCS has the same phobya splitter for $8 while FCPU is $14. Lol...


----------



## morencyam

Solution: Make your own fan extensions/splitters.

I made four 1x4 wiring harnesses for my radiator fans and cut the fan cable back to about an inch from the fan frame. Only the first fan on each harness has the Tach wire. Not a single problem thus far and no bundle of wires to have to deal with since everything was cut to the needed lengths


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@B Negative can tell you everything you need to know about Phobya fan splitters.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Man.....after searching and searching google i cant find any information on how much power this Phobya 9 fan splitter can carry. You'd think someone in marketing might have an inkling that thats important info?
> 
> There was another 9 fan splitter by darkside too but they actually labled it (smart eh?) 2 amps max, i need minimum 2.4 amps or 28.8 watts (probably nominal, not sure about peak, These Fans).
> 
> I'd really like to cancel my order for the nzxt grids but i know how much power the grid can handle but that phobya splitter doesnt want to list it (just says make sure your header has enough power). They might lose money cause of something so stupid.
> 
> PS: PPCS has the same phobya splitter for $8 while FCPU is $14. Lol...


That isn't something I have ever worried about really. I have never seen anybody need to use higher guage wire for fans and some people use quite a lot of em. Maybe if you were using 8 X 3000rpm fans it could be worth worrying about.

I have a couple of the Phobya 9 splitters and they worked fine with a mix of 8 SP120 perfs and Eloop B12-3. They are fairly high power draw fans. If you are needing 8 fan splitters I would have expected most people would be using low power and speed fans cause of how much rad space is available.

They aren't super neat though and now I prefer to use splitter PCB's
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23517/ele-1301/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-8P-44P.html?tl=g47c121s424
These ones have all pins connected though so custom cables or mods are needed.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you are needing 8 fan splitters I would have expected most people would be using low power and speed fans cause of how much rad space is available.


Well thats the point of the fan controller. I'd rather have high speed fans that i can adjust high only when the occasion calls for it than low speed fans that i dont have that option.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @B Negative can tell you everything you need to know about Phobya fan splitters.


Hmm darn, thanks for that. Guess i'll skip phobya, not going to risk that, my rig is going to be worth quite a flippin bundle as well.

Ok, forget 8 pin y splitters then. I did really want to have 1 radiators worth of fans on each channel but i do have 6 channels, i can put 4 fans (2 channels per rad) on a channel. The 30 watt/channel limit on the fan controller as well as the nzxt grid was cutting it extremely close anyway. This is why i wanted access to so many channels to begin with.

In that case can anyone recommend me a high quality brand 4x 3 pin fan splitter cable with a good track record?


----------



## Jakusonfire

That's fair enough, but at the same time all fan cables and splitters use the same hardware and I haven't seen any that were noticeably higher quality than others. They are all made in china.

The mod my toys brand cables work well for me. No complaints or issues

If you really want the best you can't beat making your own. Use higher guage wire, soldered crimps and luxury sleeving.

The point I was making with regards to fan speed was that most people with large rads wouldn't be using very high speed fans. Of course people use controllers for varying the speed to suit the circumstances or load but there is a limit to how slow a high speed fan can run. 1500RPM is the max speed I prefer. Any faster than that and lots of fans start to get really noisy.

For the capacity of splitters thing there is quite a lot of variation in standards. You would want to look at the amp rating of a single wire since the splitters join to a single wire. 22AWG is the normal guage for fan cables. The standards range from under a single amp up to 7 amps. Under an amp is the rating for wires used in very large bundles and 7 amp is the open air rating. Splitter cables would be well towards the 7 amp end.
8 fans is no trouble.
Edit; My mistake, that is not right. Its actually 26AWG for many fans and the limit is 2.2amp


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Well thats the point of the fan controller. I'd rather have high speed fans that i can adjust high only when the occasion calls for it than low speed fans that i dont have that option.
> Hmm darn, thanks for that. Guess i'll skip phobya, not going to risk that, my rig is going to be worth quite a flippin bundle as well.
> 
> Ok, forget 8 pin y splitters then. I did really want to have 1 radiators worth of fans on each channel but i do have 6 channels, *i can put 4 fans (2 channels per rad) on a channel.* The 30 watt/channel limit on the fan controller as well as the nzxt grid was cutting it extremely close anyway. This is why i wanted access to so many channels to begin with.
> 
> In that case can anyone recommend me a high quality brand 4x 3 pin fan splitter cable with a good track record?


This is exactly what I did. Rad 1 push fan on channel 1, rad 1 pull fans on channel 2, rad 2 push fans on channel 3, and rad 2 pull fans on channel 4. Then I have the last two channels populated with case fans, which hardly ever change, but nice to have the option just in case.

As far as reputable splitter cables, I see Bitfenix splitters get used quite often and don't recall having seen anything about about them. But like I said, I make my own splitter cables so I can't speak from experience


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This is exactly what I did. Rad 1 push fan on channel 1, rad 1 pull fans on channel 2, rad 2 push fans on channel 3, and rad 2 pull fans on channel 4. Then I have the last two channels populated with case fans, which hardly ever change, but nice to have the option just in case.
> 
> As far as reputable splitter cables, I see Bitfenix splitters get used quite often and don't recall having seen anything about about them. But like I said, I make my own splitter cables so I can't speak from experience


What would i need to make my own splitters and rpm sensor wire? I assume wire, pins, connectors, sleeving and some kind of crimping tool? Sounds pricey.

Edit: Too bad i can only find 3 way bitfenix ones. Well the wire gauge is probably the same as the 9 way so going with a 4 way phobya should probably be safe?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That isn't something I have ever worried about really. I have never seen anybody need to use higher guage wire for fans and some people use quite a lot of em. Maybe if you were using 8 X 3000rpm fans it could be worth worrying about.
> 
> I have a couple of the Phobya 9 splitters and they worked fine with a mix of 8 SP120 perfs and Eloop B12-3. They are fairly high power draw fans. If you are needing 8 fan splitters I would have expected most people would be using low power and speed fans cause of how much rad space is available.
> 
> They aren't super neat though and now I prefer to use splitter PCB's
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23517/ele-1301/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-8P-44P.html?tl=g47c121s424
> These ones have all pins connected though so custom cables or mods are needed.


Speaking of those new modmytoys units, have they fixed the part where the tach sensor was connected to all the headers resulting in a wonky RPM readout? I asked PPCs on their facebook page and they said the fix was done. It would be great to have confirmation here too. My go-to splitters are NZXT Grid original (with tach sensors cut off on all but one header) for 3 pin fans and the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter for 4 pin PWM fans. Of course this is best only with quad rads or more.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of those new modmytoys units, have they fixed the part where the tach sensor was connected to all the headers resulting in a wonky RPM readout? I asked PPCs on their facebook page and they said the fix was done. It would be great to have confirmation here too. My go-to splitters are NZXT Grid original (with tach sensors cut off on all but one header) for 3 pin fans and the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter for 4 pin PWM fans. Of course this is best only with quad rads or more.


I didn't know they planned to change. I bought a couple just recently and they were all connected. I actually prefer that because then I can use them for splitting Aquabus signals and RGB lighting too.
I haven't looked at the new low profile version. Maybe they have changed the way those ones work.

Edit: although, there is a note on the low profiles that mentions only using with the same fans or there will be mixed signals. Although that is slightly ambiguous


----------



## Bluemustang

Well maybe i will go with the modright ones then. I think ive heard a few good things about them, and generally dont hear such great things about phobya.

So These Modright vs These Phobya votes?

I think i feel more comfortable with the modright. Also it says the rated amperage/gauge and that they're shielded male connectors (whatever that is, sounds good).

As to what someone else asked about the RPM signal issue. I found this note on The ones on FCPU "Note: RPM Monitoring is supported on the first header only. Splitting RPM lines gives mixed results and is not recommended. "


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah the modright ones are good. They are also a bit neater because the Phobya are just single length but the modright are staggered so you can lay them along the rad and it lines up with the fans.

Shielded connectors just have the little hood over the ends rather than bare pins.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> What would i need to make my own splitters and rpm sensor wire? I assume wire, pins, connectors, sleeving and some kind of crimping tool? Sounds pricey.
> 
> Edit: Too bad i can only find 3 way bitfenix ones. Well the wire gauge is probably the same as the 9 way so going with a 4 way phobya should probably be safe?


You nailed it. You'd need wire, pins, sleeve, and a crimp tool. I already had all but the pins on hand so it made sense for me. Probably not worth it to buy a crimper if this is the only thing you'll ever use it for. But I make all my cables custom, so a crimper was worth the investment for me.

For the RPM sensor wire(Tach), all you do is have all three wires(+12v, ground, and tach) to the first plug only. Then any plugs following that only get the +12v and ground. Or you take the easy way out and just cut the Tach wire on all but one fan per harness. But then you don't have a Tach wire if you ever decide to use the fans in a different scenario, unless you reattach it.


----------



## Bluemustang

Ok thanks guys thats what ill go with. Sorry for the mess, this kinda got outa hand


----------



## royce5950

Dont forget the heatsink plaster / glue


----------



## snef

some photos with panel


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Ok thanks guys thats what ill go with. Sorry for the mess, this kinda got outa hand


One thing I used to do with RPM wires from fans was just slip the pin out of the connector and leave it sitting next to it or tape it to the outside. That way nothing is permanently modified. The pin can just slip back in any time you want.
It looks like what you are getting is set up right though anyway.


----------



## Bluemustang

I had also sent a message to PPCS asking them if they could tell me the amp/watt rating of the phobya cable and this is the response i got.

"There is not limit to amps with any cables we sell. The only thing to consider is what the header on mobo or fan controller can support. Has nothing to do with the cable."

Right....knowledgeable folks


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some photos with panel


dat snef custom SLI plate is hot hot hot


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Well maybe i will go with the modright ones then. I think ive heard a few good things about them, and generally dont hear such great things about phobya.
> 
> So These Modright vs These Phobya votes?
> 
> I think i feel more comfortable with the modright. Also it says the rated amperage/gauge and that they're shielded male connectors (whatever that is, sounds good).
> 
> As to what someone else asked about the RPM signal issue. I found this note on The ones on FCPU "Note: RPM Monitoring is supported on the first header only. Splitting RPM lines gives mixed results and is not recommended. "


Dont quote me but I'm almost positive @B Negative had one of those phobya splitters burn up on him. I'd wait for him to chime in.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Solution: Make your own fan extensions/splitters.
> 
> I made four 1x4 wiring harnesses for my radiator fans and cut the fan cable back to about an inch from the fan frame. Only the first fan on each harness has the Tach wire. Not a single problem thus far and no bundle of wires to have to deal with since everything was cut to the needed lengths


+1 this seems obvious to you vets maybe, but I hadn't got there yet although I have recently learned all the techniques to make this cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> dat snef custom SLI plate is hot hot hot


Do want. How can I get this made or guidance to do it myself?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> +1 this seems obvious to you vets maybe, but I hadn't got there yet although I have recently learned all the techniques to make this cable.
> Do want. How can I get this made or guidance to do it myself?


I believe that is the custom work of Ricardo from Coldzero:

http://www.coldzero.eu/forum/forumdisplay.php?66-Custom-Parts-Gallery


----------



## snef

yep, he's right


----------



## Archea47

Snef totally nailed it with that build

I've been happy with the modright fan extensions and splitters I'm using


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @B Negative can tell you everything you need to know about Phobya fan splitters.


Scheisser cables.....

Im trying to find the pic of the one that caught fire in my SR2.

EDIT:



And that damage is repeated 2/3rds down the wire to the split junction.


----------



## korruptedkaos

jesus!


----------



## aka13

Holy ****, how much current did you have flowing there?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Holy ****, how much current did you have flowing there?


It destroyed a 50w channel mosfet but all the fans survived. 4 Corsair SP's


----------



## aka13

12v @ 50W means something around 4amps. Were the fans jammed, or where did you get such currents from? Corsair SP should pull around 0,1 Amp while running, aroun 0,5 when starting, according to my measurements.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> 12v @ 50W means something around 4amps. Were the fans jammed, or where did you get such currents from? Corsair SP should pull around 0,1 Amp while running, aroun 0,5 when starting, according to my measurements.


The joins in the split were not insulated correctly. It turned the first part of the wire into a heating element,the mosfet did its job admirably before taking one for the team,Lamptron know how to build high power fancontrollers.


----------



## aka13

Ah, well, screw the manufacturers who save money on insulation.


----------



## darwing

Wow after over a year of planning and working on this it's finally nearing the end game!!! Thank all of you for taking interest in this build and keeping me motivated ???

I just finished the acrylic tubing and I'm in awe at its beauty it's everything I had hoped for! I'm off to get distiller water to leak test!!!







After leak test I put in the meyhems pastel pitch black coolant and finish up the custom cables and lighting ???☺☺☺

Will take better pics this weekend with a different camera


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Cool thanks. Hope the fan controller can also read the RPMs from 8 fans hooked to 1 channel (same fans, 8 fans per 480 rad, got 2) plugged in via nzxt fan hub.
> 
> If not oh well but itd be nice.


Am I missing something?
Are you really hooking 8 fans on a single channel? Are you ussing 1000rpm 3W fans? Isn't 8 fans a bit much on a single channel. Your controller has 30W channels, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It destroyed a 50w channel mosfet but all the fans survived. 4 Corsair SP's


The only times I needed a splitter I made it myself. That's okay, right?
If you know the basics...

I just cut the wires, twist them, cover them in tin, put a shrink sleeve over both cables separately and both together and finally also over the original insulation(I like overkill







).
Have the exact same thing running now, 3 ap-15 fans on a single channel. Rocking solid for a year or so.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Am I missing something?
> Are you really hooking 8 fans on a single channel? Are you ussing 1000rpm 3W fans? Isn't 8 fans a bit much on a single channel. Your controller has 30W channels, right?


3.6x8=28.8w

So itd work but i decided to split the load in half for safety, since i have the spare channels anyway.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Am I missing something?
> Are you really hooking 8 fans on a single channel? Are you ussing 1000rpm 3W fans? Isn't 8 fans a bit much on a single channel. Your controller has 30W channels, right?
> The only times I needed a splitter I made it myself. That's okay, right?
> If you know the basics...
> 
> I just cut the wires, twist them, cover them in tin, put a shrink sleeve over both cables separately and both together and finally also over the original insulation(I like overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> Have the exact same thing running now, 3 ap-15 fans on a single channel. Rocking solid for a year or so.


Sure, its absolutely ok. I doubt youhook u more than 8 fans on a splitter ever, and that would be around 8-10A when jammed. As long as you are ok at soldering, those connections are absolutely fine to use.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Cool thanks. Hope the fan controller can also read the RPMs from 8 fans hooked to 1 channel (same fans, 8 fans per 480 rad, got 2) plugged in via nzxt fan hub.
> 
> If not oh well but itd be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Am I missing something?
> Are you really hooking 8 fans on a single channel? Are you ussing 1000rpm 3W fans? Isn't 8 fans a bit much on a single channel. Your controller has 30W channels, right?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It destroyed a 50w channel mosfet but all the fans survived. 4 Corsair SP's
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The only times I needed a splitter I made it myself. That's okay, right?
> If you know the basics...
> 
> I just cut the wires, twist them, cover them in tin, put a shrink sleeve over both cables separately and both together and finally also over the original insulation(I like overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> Have the exact same thing running now, 3 ap-15 fans on a single channel. Rocking solid for a year or so.
Click to expand...

Of course,I make my whole PSU loom now from scratch,thing like pumps etc are straight to PSU,no plugs.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Sure, its absolutely ok. I doubt youhook u more than 8 fans on a splitter ever, and that would be around 8-10A when jammed. As long as you are ok at soldering, those connections are absolutely fine to use.


Yeah, I'm fine.
Did high school electrician.

Getting 10A through such small line would be indeed a bit tricky.
Then again I have seen people using those thin speaker cables to power a 240V lamp in a house. So it could aways be worse.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Of course,I make my whole PSU loom now from scratch,thing like pumps etc are straight to PSU,no plugs.


That is a bit extreme for me.
I'm lazy.









Can I ask why though?
Looks a bit unhandy to me. Having everything hard-wired to each other.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Wow after over a year of planning and working on this it's finally nearing the end game!!! Thank all of you for taking interest in this build and keeping me motivated ???
> 
> I just finished the acrylic tubing and I'm in awe at its beauty it's everything I had hoped for! I'm off to get distiller water to leak test!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After leak test I put in the meyhems pastel pitch black coolant and finish up the custom cables and lighting ???☺☺☺
> 
> Will take better pics this weekend with a different camera


Nice. Only one bend in there that I don't like, and I'm sure you know which one it is. I have a very similar setup as far as those bends go and there are a couple I want to redo as well. It came down to running out of materials/learning/changing plans. Stupid budgets. Anyways, love the way it turned out.


----------



## 4WDBenio

Fan Splitters..... anyone looked at Silverstone of late? it appears they make more than just cases these days...

New 8 way Pwn Fan splitter/hub - CPF04

http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=526&area=en


----------



## Jakusonfire

It seems like everyone is making them now that PWM has come of age so to speak with proper support on motherboards and more fans available.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Sure, its absolutely ok. I doubt youhook u more than 8 fans on a splitter ever, and that would be around 8-10A when jammed. As long as you are ok at soldering, those connections are absolutely fine to use.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm fine.
> Did high school electrician.
> 
> Getting 10A through such small line would be indeed a bit tricky.
> Then again I have seen people using those thin speaker cables to power a 240V lamp in a house. So it could aways be worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Of course,I make my whole PSU loom now from scratch,thing like pumps etc are straight to PSU,no plugs.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is a bit extreme for me.
> I'm lazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I ask why though?
> Looks a bit unhandy to me. Having everything hard-wired to each other.
Click to expand...

Why? Its tidy and I can just crimp terminals and replace anything that pops. Seeing as I dont use Phobya products,thats rare now.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why? Its tidy and I can just crimp terminals and replace anything that pops. Seeing as I dont use Phobya products,thats rare now.


I prefer adjusting the wire lengths on the component and the psu, and placing the crimps where they fit me. Although I would propably not hardwire it without any sort of a connector.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why? Its tidy and I can just crimp terminals and replace anything that pops. Seeing as I dont use Phobya products,thats rare now.
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer adjusting the wire lengths on the component and the psu, and placing the crimps where they fit me. Although I would propably not hardwire it without any sort of a connector.
Click to expand...

My mistake,let me clarify,I use modular power supplies,I just use the plug straight in to the psu


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My mistake,let me clarify,I use modular power supplies,I just use the plug straight in to the psu


You scared me there for a moment.


----------



## wermad

You can buy psu end plugs:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g51/c621/list/p1/Connectors-Corsair_Seasonic_Cooler_Master_PSU_Connectors.html

Rather then using connectors in between for your accessories. Clean way to run stuff (as gpu and cpu connectors have always been straight).


----------



## aka13

I am aware of that, thx. Speaking of components I implied fans/controllers etc most of the time.


----------



## Shultzy

Is that silverstone fan splitter available for purchase yet


----------



## wermad

If you need a pwm hub, the swiftech seems to be something worth a try. The Phanteks I can't common but I have been given bad feedback on them.

Gonna order some NZXT standard 12v hubs to replace the modmytoyz hubs.

edit: it does look sweet though:


----------



## GrimDoctor

Would one of these negate the need for a pump top?
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=26173
Some of this watercooling gear is confusing


----------



## emsj86

Basically that's a pump that comes with a pre I stalled pump top


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Would one of these negate the need for a pump top?
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=26173
> Some of this watercooling gear is confusing


looks like the pump comes with the EK top pre-installed, so no, you wouldn't need to buy an additional top

EDIT: ninja'd by emsj86


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Would one of these negate the need for a pump top?
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=26173
> Some of this watercooling gear is confusing


That's just a D5 with an EK pump-top mounted out of the box.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That's just a D5 with an EK pump-top mounted out of the box.


So then I'd just attach a res and that's that part sorted?
Sorry about the silly sounding question. The more I read about the options the more confused I become.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> So then I'd just attach a res and that's that part sorted?
> Sorry about the silly sounding question. The more I read about the options the more confused I become.


Yep, the only thing you need to do is add a res to your loop, but make sure the res is always feeding the pump directly.

Always:
-reservoir above the pump
-Reservoir > Pump > other components


----------



## Lefik

Do D5s require some form of airflow, or do they dump their heat into the loop? I'm considering building a small aluminum box with a volara barrier to trap the noise; there would be no airflow at all. On top of that, volara foam is pretty good at insulating heat, so unless the pump uses water cooling it's a no-go.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Of course,I make my whole PSU loom now from scratch,thing like pumps etc are straight to PSU,no plugs.


This. I've likely used a single 4-pin molex in the last 3 years, Everything always goes straight to the PSU.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Do D5s require some form of airflow, or do they dump their heat into the loop? I'm considering building a small aluminum box with a volara barrier to trap the noise; there would be no airflow at all. On top of that, volara foam is pretty good at insulating heat, so unless the pump uses water cooling it's a no-go.


D5 pumps are "water cooled" so they don't need any airflow over the housing to cool it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Do D5s require some form of airflow, or do they dump their heat into the loop? I'm considering building a small aluminum box with a volara barrier to trap the noise; there would be no airflow at all. On top of that, volara foam is pretty good at insulating heat, so unless the pump uses water cooling it's a no-go.


That would work and I would like to see pictures of it if you do that. As morencyam already told you d5 dump the heat on the water itself.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE can tell you everything you need to know about Phobya fan splitters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scheisser cables.....
> 
> Im trying to find the pic of the one that caught fire in my SR2.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> *snip*
> 
> And that damage is repeated 2/3rds down the wire to the split junction.
Click to expand...

Yup looks to me like it likely had a bare spot in the insulation and grounded out. I have Phobya Y splitters that work just fine. Of course I get the bare unit and sleeve it myself. Gives me a chance to visually inspect them before commital.









Also means I can sleeve with MDPC sleeving.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

With mdpc closed where does one get their sleeving?


----------



## wermad

You can always swap a corsair kit







.

Not much options tbh. Guess its just a bit of waiting till they get up and running soon.
Quote:


> Dear Friends of Nils & Mona (and MDPC of course)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since almost 7 years, we had not one single day off, no holiday, no weekend - we were purely dedicated to you! Because we are moving our production at the moment, it is time to give ourselves a break. Once we have the new facility running and are fully relaxed again, we will be back. It will likely take a couple of months, but then we will be able to continue for many years to come. Do not feel sorry for me and Mona, but instead be happy that we give ourselves this break - which will enable us to continue for a longer time than originally planned. Take care of yourselves and enjoy life as much as you can while we do so too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nils & Mona


http://en.mdpc-x.com/


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Archea47

Absolutely awesome Jameswalt1, every part of it!

But how are you going to cool all that in that case?


----------



## wermad

em Z's







. Them alone is a one year lease on an entry C-class







. James is brave, indeed







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> em Z's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Them alone is a one year lease on an entry C-class
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . James is brave, indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Free cards always make you braver...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My mistake,let me clarify,I use modular power supplies,I just use the plug straight in to the psu


Ahh.
Got me mistaken there.

You made it sound like you just hard wired everything to the inside of the psu.
I do get your point now, makes things cleaner indeed.
But what if you want to change stuff? Or change case.

That would be a PITA.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet man.









Does it come with those pci plates by default?


----------



## wermad

I seeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee....going off-topic in 3, 2, ..



Btw, Argentina still sore back there....


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Absolutely awesome Jameswalt1, every part of it!
> 
> But how are you going to cool all that in that case?


A 240 and 360, we'll see how it goes








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> em Z's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Them alone is a one year lease on an entry C-class
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . James is brave, indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Free cards always make you braver...











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Sweet man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it come with those pci plates by default?


Indeed they do come with the blocks


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> ....
> 
> edit: it does look sweet though:


The things I would do to that sexy little thing


----------



## royce5950

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1* 




> That is simply lovely @Jameswalt1


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> With mdpc closed where does one get their sleeving?


Both Lutro0's Telios and Darkside sleeving are top notch. I've sleeved quite a few builds now using those and MDPC sleeve and have come to find them all to be equal in every way, and others here incl B Negative and Snef have written that they prefer one or the other over MDPC sleeve.

edit:
Darkside sleeve can be found at Dazmode in Canada, and Lutro0 recently merged with Modbunker (which looks like is now located at mainframecustom.com) but as Lutro0 wrote the other day of their site that they "_are down for the merger but we will be back up here very soon with a huge sale for the reopening_", so here's hoping it won't be months and months like it's now been for MDPC. Nils left a note on his site that MDPC would be down for "_a couple of months_" back at least as far back as Sept. Maybe longer.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Free cards always make you braver...


surely you're not taking a dig at a dude getting free gear


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> With mdpc closed where does one get their sleeving?
> 
> 
> 
> Both Lutro0's Telios and Darkside sleeving are top notch. I've sleeved quite a few builds now using those and MDPC sleeve and have come to find them all to be equal in every way, and others here incl B Negative and Snef have written that they prefer one or the other over MDPC sleeve.
> 
> edit:
> Darkside sleeve can be found at Dazmode in Canada, and Lutro0 recently merged with Modbunker (which looks like is now located at mainframecustom.com) but as Lutro0 wrote the other day of their site that they "are down for the merger but we will be back up here very soon with a huge sale for the reopening", so here's hoping it won't be months and months like it's now been for MDPC. Nils left a note on his site that MDPC would be down for "a couple of months" back at least as far back as Sept. Maybe longer.
Click to expand...

E22 has telios on their site, I just saw it on there no more than an hour ago. I use 550 paracord in all of my builds. Sometimes when I really want the extra vibrancy or I am building for a client who is worried about dust I just buy PET cable on amazon. you can find hundreds of paracord colors and shades on amazon, 100ft for $7 - 9 usd on average. But if you want the PET sleeving I could link you guys if you... Oh what the hell I'll just throw up a link anyways.

Give me one moment.


----------



## Chopper1591

Ok, so I bought two of these little lcd meters.


Link

Anybody have an idea on how to measure which cable is which? Going to mod it a little so i can attach a sensor.
I will be using an in-line temp sensor, this one in particular.


Any help would be apareciated greatly.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ok, so I bought two of these little lcd meters.
> 
> Anybody have an idea on how to measure which cable is which? Going to mod it a little so i can attach a sensor.
> I will be using an in-line temp sensor, this one in particular.
> 
> Any help would be apareciated greatly.


I'm pretty sure it has no polarity with temperature sensors.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ok, so I bought two of these little lcd meters.
> 
> 
> Link
> 
> Anybody have an idea on how to measure which cable is which? Going to mod it a little so i can attach a sensor.
> I will be using an in-line temp sensor, this one in particular.
> 
> 
> Any help would be apareciated greatly.


It's a thermistor. A resistor, which changes its resistance with temperature. YOu can conect it any way.


----------



## emsj86

Speaking of sleeving is there any house hold tools or tricks to remove molex connections or should I just buy the tool made for it. I ask bc I have tons of tools (I work as a hvac/refrigeration/ ice machine commerical/medical service tech)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> E22 has telios on their site, I just saw it on there no more than an hour ago. I use 550 paracord in all of my builds. Sometimes when I really want the extra vibrancy or I am building for a client who is worried about dust I just buy PET cable on amazon. you can find hundreds of paracord colors and shades on amazon, 100ft for $7 - 9 usd on average. But if you want the PET sleeving I could link you guys if you... Oh what the hell I'll just throw up a link anyways.
> 
> Give me one moment.


Oh I've tried many various other types of PET sleeving, incl modsmart, bitspower, techflex, shakmods, moddiy, some I bought off a ebay seller because someone here recommended it, and a whole bunch a buddy gave me from where he works at a high-end car audio shop, hundreds upon hundreds of feet of sleeving in all, and unfortunately every last piece of all of it eventually went in the garbage. I didn't use a single piece of any of it. All wasted time &/or money. Very few people make PET sleeve that's worth using. The _only_ ones I've found worth using so far are MDPC, Darkside, and Telios.

And I wouldn't touch a piece of paracord again if they gave it to me free and on top of that paid me ten times whatever they were selling it for. I truly hate the stuff with a passion. Nasty looking and working with it imho. To each their own.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it has no polarity with temperature sensors.


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> It's a thermistor. A resistor, which changes its resistance with temperature. YOu can conect it any way.











Ofcourse.

Should've know that.
That's what you get when you stop working with electronics regularly.









I hope the gauge has the same resistance as the "special" temp sensor monitors.
Big difference though. ~€1.80 vs €8 for practically the exact same thing.


----------



## royce5950

LARGE STOCK - ALMOST 100 DIFFERENT COLORS! - 25FT 50FT 75FT 100FT - FREE SHIPPING!!

Thats where I get my paracord from. Then I just take the paracord planet wrapper off of it, rebrand it and resell it through my company.

I have permission from paracord planet to do so. I don't make nearly anything on it either. When I custom sleeve a build I double my money on the paracord investment but when I just order the paracord for a client or a friend of a friend and so forth I just make about 3 bucks or so. But my point is if you cant ever find sleeving through your usual suppliers, try out the paracord I linked you to above ^ Or at least save the link for another time. I'll put my 3 rep points behind the quality and value of this here paracord lol









But seriously save the link and keep it in mind. I'm expecting 100ft of bright orange from them tomorrow and I'll be sure to post pics of it when it arrives in the build log in my sig. I'll post some in here too. I'll try and give a detailed description of how it looks, feels, works, sleeves, cuts and then give my final opinion on it but I've bought the black 20 + times, dark grey 5+ times, light blue twice and a bunch of other colors and I've never been disappointed. Vibrant colors, solid weave and heavy duty for its size just like 550 is supposed to be. After all I'm pretty sure 550 has something to do with the number of threads woven into the cord. In the military for instance it was used to avoid misplacing various items, securing camouflage nets to trees or attaching equipment to harnesses blah blah...

My point is with 550 paracord, as long as a company is honest with its branding and claims of a paracord being actual "550 paracord" the end product cant be much different from brand to brand. The main difference and only difference that should be noticed from brand to brand in my experience is whether its nylon, polyester or a mixture of both, and the brightness or vibrance of the paracords color... Of course color selection is important too but I've yacked everyones heads off enough now lol.

I'll post up pics after my order of paracord comes in tomorrow so you can all have some actual photos to make a better decision if this sleeving would be right for you or not. A better decision than that of one you would make off the generic close ups online shops like amazon provides lol.

I hope I helped somewhat


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Oh I've tried many various other types of PET sleeving, incl modsmart, bitspower, techflex, shakmods, moddiy, some I bought off a ebay seller because someone here recommended it, and a whole bunch a buddy gave me from where he works at a high-end car audio shop, hundreds upon hundreds of feet of sleeving in all, and unfortunately every last piece of all of it eventually went in the garbage. I didn't use a single piece of any of it. All wasted time &/or money. Very few people make PET sleeve that's worth using. The only ones I've found worth using so far are MDPC, Darkside, and Telios.
> 
> And I wouldn't touch a piece of paracord again if they gave it to me free and on top of that paid me ten times whatever they were selling it for. I truly hate the stuff with a passion. Nasty looking and working with it imho. To each their own.


I find the benefits or PET are that since its plastic if it gets dirty you can wipe it with damp cloth or isopropyl alcohol and get smudges from dirty fingers or a dusty case out from the cable, unlike paracord which is pretty much just a sponge that soaks up any dirt that contacts it. also pet can be stretched if you hold both ends and push together, just like chinese finger cuffs, this way you can fit wider guage cable or sleeve multiple cables in a small piece of sleeve while paracord is a "only room for one cord on this planet" sort of deal lol. I could go on about the up sides of PET over paracord all day. I'm with you one hundred percent. But I still use paracord because I know the builds I use paracord in are usually going to be cleaned often, have a bright cold cathode light in them and my sleeving jobs are usually mostly dark colors like smoke grey and black with an accent color. so when someone is doing a build with vibrant colors I always recommend PET all the way!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> LARGE STOCK - ALMOST 100 DIFFERENT COLORS! - 25FT 50FT 75FT 100FT - FREE SHIPPING!!
> 
> Thats where I get my paracord from. Then I just take the paracord planet wrapper off of it, rebrand it and resell it through my company.
> I have permission from paracord planet to do so. I don't make nearly anything on it either. When I custom sleeve a build I double my money on the paracord investment but when I just order the paracord for a client or a friend of a friend and so forth I just make about 3 bucks or so. But my point is if you cant ever find sleeving through your usual suppliers, try out the paracord I linked you to above ^ Or at least save the link for another time. I'll put my 3 rep points behind the quality and value of this here paracord lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously save the link and keep it in mind. I'm expecting 100ft of bright orange from them tomorrow and I'll be sure to post pics of it when it arrives in the build log in my sig. I'll post some in here too. I'll try and give a detailed description of how it looks, feels, works, sleeves, cuts and then give my final opinion on it but I've bought the black 20 + times, dark grey 5+ times, light blue twice and a bunch of other colors and I've never been disappointed. Vibrant colors, solid weave and heavy duty for its size just like 550 is supposed to be. After all I'm pretty sure 550 has something to do with the number of threads woven into the cord. In the military for instance it was used to avoid misplacing various items, securing camouflage nets to trees or attaching equipment to harnesses blah blah...
> My point is with 550 paracord, as long as a company is honest with its branding and claims of a paracord being actual "550 paracord" the end product cant be much different from brand to brand. The main difference and only difference that should be noticed from brand to brand in my experience is whether its nylon, polyester or a mixture of both, and the brightness or vibrance of the paracords color... Of course color selection is important too but I've yacked everyones heads off enough now lol.
> 
> I'll post up pics after my order of paracord comes in tomorrow so you can all have some actual photos to make a better decision if this sleeving would be right for you or not. A better decision than that of one you would make off the generic close ups online shops like amazon provides lol.
> 
> I hope I helped somewhat


That are some nice prices IMO.

Maybe a stupid question, but.
Is that different from "general" sleeves? Looks different somehow.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Free cards always make you braver...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> surely you're not taking a dig at a dude getting free gear
Click to expand...

Not at all,most of my kit is sponsored too.
Its easier to take risks with kit that you didn't pay monies for.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Speaking of sleeving is there any house hold tools or tricks to remove molex connections or should I just buy the tool made for it. I ask bc I have tons of tools (I work as a hvac/refrigeration/ ice machine commerical/medical service tech)


Take a bobby pin, clamp the closed end with plyers so its a point, but dont break it, theres a fine line between squeezed with plyers and broken lol. After youve used the plyers then fold out each wing half way down so it looks like a large V with a wing coming off in opposite directions on each side. boom!! now you can use the wings to hold onto and you remove the molexes by pushing the pointed side through the terminal. I'm going to take a pic just for you! give me 2 - 3 minutes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Guys...enough with sleeving please,there are forums devoted to that already.


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That are some nice prices IMO.
> 
> Maybe a stupid question, but.
> Is that different from "general" sleeves? Looks different somehow.


It miiight be that these look a little bit more thick, round or puffed up, but if thats what your talking about its because lutro0 and other pc mod suppliers take the inside out prior to shipping to their customers. Its kind of an added perk of buying paracord though one of them rather than buying it like this. but honestly if you have only bought paracord from pc mod resellers dont be scared by this. the inside is already hanging out most of the time and it comes out like its practically throwing itself at you lol


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Speaking of sleeving is there any house hold tools or tricks to remove molex connections or should I just buy the tool made for it. I ask bc I have tons of tools (I work as a hvac/refrigeration/ ice machine commerical/medical service tech)


If you got an old antenna lying around, like the ones from old tv's or remote control toys, you can take them apart and use one of the tubes as a molex remover. That is what I currently use and it works fine.


----------



## royce5950

I know I know I think I've said the p word like 100 times now


----------



## royce5950

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Speaking of sleeving is there any house hold tools or tricks to remove molex connections or should I just buy the tool made for it. I ask bc I have tons of tools (I work as a hvac/refrigeration/ ice machine commerical/medical service tech)
> 
> 
> 
> If you got an old antenna lying around, like the ones from old tv's or remote control toys, you can take them apart and use one of the tubes as a molex remover. That is what I currently use and it works fine.
Click to expand...

this...

that and my cam is dead right now I guess


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

plottingCreeper pointed this beauty out in a recent article from silentpcreview's first foray into watercooling ...

*SPCR silent watercooling article*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1536131/spcr-silent-watercooling-article/

Here's an excerpt from their initial pump testing ...
Quote:


> The acoustics were not good. As we noted many times in the past, water pumps for PC component cooling have a considerably worse acoustic signature than typical DC axial fans used in computers. High tonality, especially in the upper registers of the audio spectrum, combined with high vibration makes the VisionTek EK EK-SBAY DDC 3.2 PWM reservoir-pump a very difficult component to use in a quiet PC. Even at the slowest setting, it sounds reminiscent of a fan with ball bearings about to fail - there's a screechy quality that pervades, albeit at much lower SPL (sound pressure level) than at higher speeds. We could use the elastic suspension mechanical decoupling method that has served so well for HDD vibration damping for years, but the screechy quality was so prevalent that even the damping afforded by being wrapped in my hands did not change it. *The absence of liquid in the reservoir and pump may have exacerbated the noise, as water has acoustic damping properties, but we were doubtful that it would have more than a marginal effect.*


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ofcourse.
> 
> Should've know that.
> That's what you get when you stop working with electronics regularly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope the gauge has the same resistance as the "special" temp sensor monitors.
> Big difference though. ~€1.80 vs €8 for practically the exact same thing.


Usualy they are 10k ohm thermistors, industry tandart or something.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> plottingCreeper pointed this beauty out in a recent article from silentpcreview's first foray into watercooling ...
> 
> *SPCR silent watercooling article*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1536131/spcr-silent-watercooling-article/
> 
> Here's an excerpt from their initial pump testing ...
> [/SIZE]


























the worse part is that some newbie reading this might be put off a first attempt on







due to this stupid remark.


----------



## aka13

Wait a sec, so what he said is, that a pump produces the same sound in and out of the water?!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

They ran the pump dry to see how loud it was on the premise that doing so would have little to no effect on the noise it would produce.

Pumps are much louder if they get even a small air bubble in them, so I can only imagine the noise it makes running it completely dry, though I've never tried it to know for sure, nor would I ever, because regardless they likely damaged if not completely ruined the pump.

Watercooling 101: Lesson 1: Do not ever run your pump dry.


----------



## VSG

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=68204
Quote:


> Good info, thanks. I wondered if I was damaging the pump running it dry... but didn't get clarification from the sample supplier. It wasn't done very long, and sounded bad right from the start. I suspect the bearing on that pump failed for whatever reason. I've requested a second sample of the pump, and as I stated in the article conclusions, will report back any new findings.
> 
> So from your comments, it sounds like you're an old hand at water cooling? Is there a separate reservoir type or model you'd recommend?


Mike clearly didn't do his research and likely just looked at Martin's test results and dicussions page. I don't blame him necessarily but he says he looked at several sources including this very forum and not knowing that the pump running dry would be bad is a free admit into Watercooling 101


----------



## aka13

I mean, you don't necessarily have to be a watercooling expert to know that you do not let pumps run dry and that the noise differences are extreme with/without water, and get bigger the bigger the pump is.

Why would one post such gimmicks as "research".


----------



## VSG

I wrote an email to Mike about this, hopefully gives him some ideas on all the different variables he didn't think of- pump top, decoupling, things like the Alphacool isolating box (whatever it is called) and the Shoggy sandwich, and the effect of bleeding a loop on pump noise.


----------



## ElCid

*" The absence of liquid in the reservoir and pump may have exacerbated the noise, as water has acoustic damping properties, but we were doubtful that it would have more than a marginal effect. "*


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

^ hahaha Cenk










I do hope they stick with it and it eventually leads SPCR to including fan noise & airflow testing on a radiator. Their testing in open air and against an air cooler restriction just doesn't apply to how the same fans perform against the restriction of a rad.


----------



## VSG

Yeah, their noise measurement setup is well established. So hopefully they keep going. But looking through Mike's comments in the forums, it does seem like he isn't a fan of any watercooling at all.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royce5950*
> 
> It miiight be that these look a little bit more thick, round or puffed up, but if thats what your talking about its because lutro0 and other pc mod suppliers take the inside out prior to shipping to their customers. Its kind of an added perk of buying paracord though one of them rather than buying it like this. but honestly if you have only bought paracord from pc mod resellers dont be scared by this. the inside is already hanging out most of the time and it comes out like its practically throwing itself at you lol


To be honest I have no clue.

I can imagine what you mean, but I haven't worked with sleeves before myself.

Is it something that it uses to actually make the sleeve? The internal thingy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> They ran the pump dry to see how loud it was on the premise that doing so would have little to no effect on the noise it would produce.
> 
> Pumps are much louder if they get even a small air bubble in them, so I can only imagine the noise it makes running it completely dry, though I've never tried it to know for sure, nor would I ever, because regardless they likely damaged if not completely ruined the pump.
> 
> Watercooling 101: Lesson 1: Do not ever run your pump dry.


I love dry pumping.

My god that sound is awful.
I had it happen to me slightly when filling my first loop for the first time. Hadn't expected that the d5 vario on speed 5 sucks down a 150ml res so quickly.









Sluuurp, grrrr.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> ^ hahaha Cenk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do hope they stick with it and it eventually leads SPCR to including fan noise & airflow testing on a radiator. Their testing in open air and against an air cooler restriction just doesn't apply to how the same fans perform against the restriction of a rad.


Totally agree on this.

Fan noise in particular.
It changes a lot if the restriction increases.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Guys, trying to find these in a store that ships to Brazil:

https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights/led-strip-aluminium-profile/corner-aluminium-extrusion-for-led-strip?products_id=121:42fff8daa4865331f4ed6e527e9f6c72

without luck so far. Anyone have any suggestions. It seems most vendors from China are trying to sell in bulk (like 20 pieces of 1 m) and I only need 3 m tops. I will try to cut tubes in half and sand it down to frost it but want to have options in case that does not go well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Guys, trying to find these in a store that ships to Brazil:
> 
> https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights/led-strip-aluminium-profile/corner-aluminium-extrusion-for-led-strip?products_id=121:42fff8daa4865331f4ed6e527e9f6c72
> 
> without luck so far. Anyone have any suggestions. It seems most vendors from China are trying to sell in bulk (like 20 pieces of 1 m) and I only need 3 m tops. I will try to cut tubes in half and sand it down to frost it but want to have options in case that does not go well.


I get my LED covers from there,I may be able to do something for you as I have to order up soon.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I get my LED covers from there,I may be able to do something for you as I have to order up soon.


That would be great B Neg! Thank you. Sent you a PM.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bitspower makes me moist....


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower makes me moist....


Yeah that's lovely jubbly


----------



## TheCautiousOne

GOld Plated or Painted?

The Cautious One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower makes me moist....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah that's lovely jubbly
Click to expand...

I used the BP Z tanks as res almost exclusively before building my own. Best res for looks hands down and so well made.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> GOld Plated or Painted?
> 
> The Cautious One


I think its just polished solid brass rather than plated.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I used the BP Z tanks as res almost exclusively before building my own. Best res for looks hands down and so well made.
> I think its just polished solid brass rather than plated.


Thanks for the Clarification. I like your words of confidence about the Z tank! I have been very pleased with it in my brothers build. The Look and the amount of options that come with it.

The Cautious One

PS: I am not saying this to you as if the comment was directed to me but just how I feel about it (Nor like I designed them either) I just really fell in love with them after seeing a build by @Jameswalt1
that he used the the Titanfall build.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower makes me moist....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If I could get a wish granted from Bitspower, it would be for the Z tube to have external threads with mating end caps.

When you use pastels or auroras, on a Non 24/7 machine, the particles fall out of suspension and settle into the threads and never get picked back up into suspension again, and it gets to look tacky after a while.

You pretty much have to run X1 type coolants with the Z-tube, or white pastel with the white POM end caps.

Darlene


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> They ran the pump dry to see how loud it was on the premise that doing so would have little to no effect on the noise it would produce.
> 
> Pumps are much louder if they get even a small air bubble in them, so I can only imagine the noise it makes running it completely dry, though I've never tried it to know for sure, nor would I ever, because regardless they likely damaged if not completely ruined the pump.
> 
> Watercooling 101: Lesson 1: Do not ever run your pump dry.


There is more info in the postscript. He identified the noise as being caused by the res itself somehow. A pump run completely dry is near silent. Until the bearing fails completely and it sounds like a jackhammer of course.

You have to wonder how much research was really done if dry running pumps and the fact that 60 degree component temps does not equal 60 degree coolant temps didn't come up. Surely just one of his sources would have covered that.


----------



## VSG

I am going through an email exchange with him. I think I convinced him about not running a pump dry finally. He did make some interesting points too about a few things I do.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> He did make some interesting points too about a few things I do.


I've gone off on one before about Silent Mike and his disdain for watercooling (actually in a meeting at work when I discovered a colleague who is a SPCR devotee). That it's just previous bad experience that is stopping him from embracing it, but unfortunately his opinion has influenced many silence-seekers to avoid watercooling. I really think a quality, well installed system could turn him around. Especially with regards graphics cards that can easily be run with less noise and lower temps than any stock air solution.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> D5 pumps are "water cooled" so they don't need any airflow over the housing to cool it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That would work and I would like to see pictures of it if you do that. As morencyam already told you d5 dump the heat on the water itself.


Good to hear that it will work. I'll order the supplies and then make a guide/build-log. The one I'm making will be for two D5s, I need to mod a spot in my case for it because it will be huge with overkill sound dampening. The current plan is to use a two piece design of folded aluminum, then the 1/4" volara barrier, and then a 1" thick foam wedge array as the inside layer.
Given that D5s aren't that noisy at low speeds, and that they will already be inside a sound dampened case, the project is more for fun rather than the practicality.


----------



## WiSK

Did anyone notice Thermaltake have released a whole bunch of water cooling parts: block, res, fittings, tubing, etc.

Only ... the rads are aluminium


----------



## DarthBaggins

The CPU waterblock doesn't look bad lol


----------



## emsj86

First the knock off case labs now the knock off ek look alone adapter fittings go home thermal take lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

fitting seems to be ek re-branded. rads looks a lot like ocool. Case looks a lot like caselabs (probably cheap and not well implemented). reservoir at first sight looks a lot like bitspower. Wondering if they reach any sort of agreement. Not that I plan to buy anything thermaltake in the future just curiosity.


----------



## Deepblue77

Nothing wrong with offering a lower cost alternative to the masses. We already have lots of high-end mnfrs. The more people in the hobby, the better the products will be.


----------



## emsj86

I guess but would be nice to see new things not copied


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Did anyone notice Thermaltake have released a whole bunch of water cooling parts: block, res, fittings, tubing, etc.
> 
> Only ... the rads are aluminium


Its probably targeted for the closed loop audience who want to take their setup beyond the limitations of a cls (and void warranties







). Aluminum rads have been available for a while now, so nothing new tbh.


----------



## Archea47

I'm tempted to replace my front Ut60 with a monsta. I run 3k GT fans on it @ 100% - think I would get a couple C out of the change?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'm tempted to replace my front Ut60 with a monsta. I run 3k GT fans on it @ 100% - think I would get a couple C out of the change?


Not sure it's worth mate. Take a look here at 1200 and 1500 rpm and you will see a difference between ut60 and monsta (360 mm) of around half a degree:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads

That been said those tests were done with single row of fans nor push/pull.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it come with those pci plates by default?
Click to expand...

I am not sure that those backplates are needed what with the support those blocks provide when mounted in tandem. When mounted in standard orientation I can see getting them. Mounted in a flipped manner it seems a bit unnecessary.

Would Love to have a pair of those PCI slot covers for my 6870 cards though.









As far as sleeving goes, I am (im)patiently awaiting the return of MDPC as I am running low.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

How's your acrylic tube setup coming along bud?


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Wow after over a year of planning and working on this it's finally nearing the end game!!! Thank all of you for taking interest in this build and keeping me motivated ???
> 
> I just finished the acrylic tubing and I'm in awe at its beauty it's everything I had hoped for! I'm off to get distiller water to leak test!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After leak test I put in the meyhems pastel pitch black coolant and finish up the custom cables and lighting ???☺☺☺
> 
> Will take better pics this weekend with a different camera


Looks awesome and am looking forward to see it running, Nice Work!


----------



## natsu2014

Need help from more experienced users. I have a red with only 1 inlet which I'm using as part of the loop. Is there any way to bleed it? Been thinking about adding pressure valve but don't know if this will be any good


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Need help from more experienced users. I have a red with only 1 inlet which I'm using as part of the loop. Is there any way to bleed it? Been thinking about adding pressure valve but don't know if this will be any good


Where is the rad mounted? most of the time a pressure valve isn't necessary since the air will bleed out over time or during the tilting when filling a loop, I have a top mounted 360 and cooling performance is great with any air bubbles that might have been stuck in the beginning having worked their way out during use.


----------



## natsu2014

Front and bottom rads (360 + 480) It looks like that

The part where fluid goes from cpu to res is where is no fluid when pc is turned off and when I turn it on - loads of air bubbles in the res. Temps are fine, it just not looking good and don't know if that many air pockets wouldn't harm my hardware in a long term use


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Front and bottom rads (360 + 480) It looks like that
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The part where fluid goes from cpu to res is where is no fluid when pc is turned off and when I turn it on - loads of air bubbles in the res. Temps are fine, it just not looking good and don't know if that many air pockets wouldn't harm my hardware in a long term use


Usually you prevent that by placing a small tube inside the reservoir to prevent the air to go in the loop again:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23944/ex-res-693/EK_X3_Resevoir_Internal_Tube_-_40mm_EK-RES_X3_-_Internal_Tube_1216_40mm.html?tl=g30c97s169#blank

that tube will then be with the mouth submerged in the res liquid just below the liquid/air transition.

Since yours seems a custom reservoir not sure how would you do it but it seems that is the problem if I understood correctly your setup. BTW really interesting res.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Front and bottom rads (360 + 480) It looks like that
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The part where fluid goes from cpu to res is where is no fluid when pc is turned off and when I turn it on - loads of air bubbles in the res. Temps are fine, it just not looking good and don't know if that many air pockets wouldn't harm my hardware in a long term use


That's the problem you always have when you have a top return res with no dip tube.

If there's some common area at the very top , you'd need to make a very short dip tube, maybe 10mm or so, and then have a vent port added on the top of the res, and fill so that the level keeps the dip tube below the surface.

You don't have much room to work with, but that's the only way you'll be able to keep it from backsiphoning air when the pump shuts down.

Darlene


----------



## natsu2014

Yeah I can't put that tube in that's why I was thinking about pressure valve. Would it be possible to bleed it through front rad? There is 1 port on the top of my 360 so I could use it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Yeah I can't put that tube in that's why I was thinking about pressure valve. Would it be possible to bleed it through front rad? There is 1 port on the top of my 360 so I could use it


walk us through your reservoir. The tubes are connected in series and the liquid go in on the top and then follow through every tube there in a series of up and down flow until exiting below?


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> walk us through your reservoir. The tubes are connected in series and the liquid go in on the top and then follow through every tube there in a series


This. I was after waterfall effect that's why it splits to 4 tubes at once but there is more trouble with it than I expected. If I have to I just drain it and make new tube to the bottom of the res


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> This. I was after waterfall effect that's why it splits to 4 tubes at once but there is more trouble with it than I expected. If I have to I just drain it and make new tube to the bottom of the res


but it seems there is no air there in the reservoir, at least on you picture. How is the reservoir to work as an air trap if all the tubes are in series with no air chamber? Is that suppose to happen on the delrin chamber above the tubes? I am not only trying to help you but I am really curious about the design and operation of it.


----------



## snef

you can put a T-fiiting and a fill port on top, just fill it to this fill port


----------



## natsu2014

About the desing You should ask person who made it for me. I can't help with this :/
There is a lot of air it just can't be seen in the picture. As i mentioned, If i have to then I switch to bottom ports and ditch the idea of having a waterfall. For now I'm looking for a way to get rid of air, if not possible I will consider swapping ports an leave the top as inlet only
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> you can put a T-fiiting and a fill port on top, just fill it to this fill port


The q fitting is in delivery as we speak, it was my backup plan just in case something went wrong. Will it work?


----------



## Nichismo

Made a few minor changes to the build, and took some better pictures of it to boot


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Made a few minor changes to the build, and took some better pictures of it to boot
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is a very pretty build but I just can't get over those two GPU relying on the front 240 rad while the RAM and Motherboard have the 360. As long as it works though.


----------



## emsj86

@nichismo like the build seen it around a lot in be forums. Good work. Just a suggestion when you post the pics of updates or changes could you put in alittle tag of what you changed so I can easly look or find it. Either way nice work


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> This is a very pretty build but I just can't get over those two GPU relying on the front 240 rad while the RAM and Motherboard have the 360. As long as it works though.


you're absolutely right, I do need to fix that. its a black ice stealth so it's very thin and a lot of the hot air is being expelled onto the pumps. overall the configuration that I was going for didn't really allow for much flexibility in rad capacity, and I wasn't too concerned at the time with my GPU overclock

Its just I was going dual loops and I did not have a front 360 radiator flex bay mount, and I dont like mounting radiators to the chassis floor. I really wish I would have bought the SMA8 rather than this because I love how cases like that and the 900D have chambers for mounting large radiators to the side and a potential for two power supplies also mounted sideways.

I have been considering ordering a new blank side panel from CaseLabs and modifying it, so that the window isnt as tall, but is wider so both reservoirs are visible, and then having an equally wide cutout underneath it and then placing some large perforation mesh for airflow. But that is a more long term project and I'll probably end up buying either a 280 millimeter or 360 millimeter FlexBay radiator mount.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @nichismo like the build seen it around a lot in be forums. Good work. Just a suggestion when you post the pics of updates or changes could you put in alittle tag of what you changed so I can easly look or find it. Either way nice work


Thanks. if you go to my photo album for this build and you look at the previous pictures you will notice a few different things with the motherboard block tubing. I had Bitspower c48 fittings, and the tubing was incorrectly setup, the flow was reveresed on the CPU block.

now I am using Bitspower c47s, I upgraded to the Supremacy EVO and corrected the flow, and I also changed the last piece of tube going ftom the memory block to the rad. Before it was 12mm and it was diagonal like the other routing on the other blocks but I didn't like it at all and it looked unbalanced because of the 16mm tubing from the pump tanks. So I changed it to a 16mm tube and made it come out vertically into 2 90 degree angles to the radiator. I think it looks much better now and is much more balanced


----------



## emsj86

any tips of draining everything out with acrid tubing. I have the res and bottom emptied and have been tying the case back and fourth and laying it on side but just can they everything. Any ideas? I know one thing after this I might stop updating every few weeks bc this is a pain in my ass


----------



## wermad

Try to loosen a line free (maybe the top one from your res) and blow on it. I use a fist so I don't put my mouth on the tube. I also try not to have any food particles in my mouth (ewww).

Anyways, if you have a drain line, blowing through the other end will help a lot. IT can be a bit combersome but it definitely helps and there's no additional equipment needed (ie siphon pumps or data vacs).

Careful not to fracture a tube btw


----------



## Nichismo

Yeah I hate it. But sort of by circumstance my loops thankfully drain somewhat easily, despite so many 90 degree angles and tubing in front and behind both sides of the build.

its always good to have as many possible plugs opened up for air flow

with my CPU loop the valve is right underneath the pump and reservoir so the entire reservoir drains instantly and it's also the lowest part of the loop to so the CPU loop is pretty easy for me to drain. the GPU loop is a different story however but I have another valve underneath the pump and reservoir which drains a good amount of the graphics cards, and rea immediately. Then behind the dividing inside panel where the cables are is the lowest part of the loop, I have a piece of soft tubing which connects to the reservoir inlet. It has a quick disconnect at the bottom which I use to drain the front rad and rest of the loop best I can.


----------



## emsj86

.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How's your acrylic tube setup coming along bud?


Coming along just fine. But I've shelved it for the time being until I get my Acrylic work done. I'm having 2 trays done for the 932. One ATX/mATX and one EATX for future upgrades. Won't be using the second tray until DDR4 comes down in price and Corsair releases Doms with removable tops. Til then just grinding away at the case mod.









~Ceadder


----------



## fleetfeather

anyone got any ideas for attaching 140mm fans (that have 120mm mounting holes) to a 280mm rad? the solution would be pretty simply if I ran in push config, but i was thinking of running a the fans in pull config instead, meaning i'd have to attach the fans to the rad itself (rather than mounting holes on the case)


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> anyone got any ideas for attaching 140mm fans (that have 120mm mounting holes) to a 280mm rad? the solution would be pretty simply if I ran in push config, but i was thinking of running a the fans in pull config instead, meaning i'd have to attach the fans to the rad itself (rather than mounting holes on the case)


http://koolance.com/120mm-to-140mm-bracket-adapter


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> anyone got any ideas for attaching 140mm fans (that have 120mm mounting holes) to a 280mm rad? the solution would be pretty simply if I ran in push config, but i was thinking of running a the fans in pull config instead, meaning i'd have to attach the fans to the rad itself (rather than mounting holes on the case)


this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9004/duc-49/Bitspower_Low_Profile_140mm_To_120mm_Fan_Adapter_-_Black_BP-FA140120-BK.html?tl=g47c121s262

?

edit cyclops beat me to it.







with a different solution and perhaps even better.


----------



## Cyclops

Ninja'd.


----------



## Boxlid

Reminds me, haven't seen many shrouds around these days to space the fans away and get rid of the dead zones. Only reason my lonely triple handle what it does, the fans have built in shrouds and set to pull


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxlid*
> 
> Reminds me, haven't seen many shrouds around these days to space the fans away and get rid of the dead zones. Only reason my lonely triple handle what it does, the fans have built in shrouds and set to pull


You can get a 360 shroud from PPCs' for ~$19. Granted it's for a DIMASTEC bench test case but the setup works for all 360 radiators, but other than it not being separated for the middle fan it should work quite well. I'll be using 3 of them in my build. Cheaper than going with 3 singles too.









~Ceadder


----------



## tecuarenta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxlid*
> 
> Reminds me, haven't seen many shrouds around these days to space the fans away and get rid of the dead zones. Only reason my lonely triple handle what it does, the fans have built in shrouds and set to pull




P/P 360 Monsta with 25mm shrouds on the pull side... thick...


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> http://koolance.com/120mm-to-140mm-bracket-adapter


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9004/duc-49/Bitspower_Low_Profile_140mm_To_120mm_Fan_Adapter_-_Black_BP-FA140120-BK.html?tl=g47c121s262
> 
> ?
> 
> edit cyclops beat me to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with a different solution and perhaps even better.


thank you for the suggestions!

i'm going to throw a spanner in the works and ask for something that doesn't also reduce the airflow of my 140mm fan's blades. A 120mm fan adapter like those two examples above reduce the usable diameter of my fans


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> thank you for the suggestions!
> 
> i'm going to throw a spanner in the works and ask for something that doesn't also reduce the airflow of my 140mm fan's blades. A 120mm fan adapter like those two examples above reduce the usable diameter of my fans


I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think they exist. Looked for them a while ago. Maybe you could get them custom made?


----------



## fleetfeather

Hmmm maybe. I'll have to see what sort of metal sheet I can find


----------



## Trys0meM0re

Cant make decent pics with this potato











Tell me what you guys think ( be gentle please







)


----------



## emsj86

Looks nice show some with leds off and lights on


----------



## emsj86

Will shrouds for my sp120 fans gain me good performance or our we talking a degree or 2


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Will shrouds for my sp120 fans gain me good performance or our we talking a degree or 2


Shrouds sometimes improve and sometimes do not improve performance. It's a bit hit and miss. Shrouds were a bit more popular there for a while when more people were convinced they generally helped performance, but after Martin published the findings of his V2 round of shroud testing not near as many people use shrouds any more.

Radiator Push vs. Pull vs. Shroud Testing V2
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/
Quote:


> CONCLUSION
> 
> Shroud benefits are very much radiator specific. While the MCR120 shows only very minor benefits in pull condition which are nearly immeasurable, the RS120 shows very dramatic benefits of 1C in pull condition. My first round of shroud testing only tested on one radiator with two fans and found gains on both. That test appears to still be good, however this round in testing a different radiator it has become clear that the benefits can not be generalized across all radiators and that shrouds on some radiators in the right conditions can even hurt performance. The MCR120 was generally a better performer in push condition without shrouds.
> 
> About the only generalization is that push/pull is still your best bet if cost is not a problem and that will hold true for all radiators.
> 
> Bottom line:
> Shroud benefits are Radiator Specific!!!
> 
> Are shrouds a performance benefit and should you use them for your build? MAYBE&#8230;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> Martin


----------



## emsj86

I know it will mostly for looks but if I was t water cool my ram or motherboard which should I do? If so any specific brands or style to get I have the Asus z97 pro wifi motherboard


----------



## Freaxy

I finished my first water cooling build and I'm quite happy with the result.








The Phanteks Enthoo Primo is an amazing case for this. Fitted the Alphacool monsta 480 push/pull on the bottom and the UT60 push/pull on the top.
Only thing that I disliked was the reservoir bracket. The cutout for the cards in it was too short in height for the 2 cards/3 slots configuration, so I drilled two holes in the motherboard tray for the EK X3 250 reservoir. However 1 GTX 980 G1 with waterblock would fit with the bracket, or even if it's 2 cards in the first 2 PCI-e slots.

The aquaero is awesome too, I got the pumps pwm signal, flowmeter, temp sensor, top rad fans on one channel, bottom rad fans on another and the case fans on the last. Controlling fan speeds on water temp. Pump set on 50%of it's pwm range for a nice quiet computer. Alarms on the flowmeter.
Then the Farbwerk and LED strip to react on water temp.

The water blocks are EK Supremacy EVO and 2 x EK GTX980 WF3 + backplates.

Here's some pics (sorry for the quality, I have no camera other then my Nexus 5's)






The mess-o-cables


Had great fun building it, but damn sore hands


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I know it will mostly for looks but if I was t water cool my ram or motherboard which should I do? If so any specific brands or style to get I have the Asus z97 pro wifi motherboard


Do whichever will get you the cleanest runs or what is visually appealing to you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Studio shots later but in the meantime.....


















Awaiting a solid bridge for the card tho....


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Is 2x EK-PE 240 and 1x EK-PE 120 enough cooling for 2x R9 290X (stock) and 3930K (stock)?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Nice touch with the Queen's House in the background.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxlid*
> 
> Reminds me, haven't seen many shrouds around these days to space the fans away and get rid of the dead zones. Only reason my lonely triple handle what it does, the fans have built in shrouds and set to pull


Homemade shrouds using sheets 1/2" HDPE on both push and pull side of both my radiators


----------



## emsj86

one more little run left pump to bottom rad. Of course I left the hardest for last. It won't be the best because of how it's off set but let's see what happens


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Studio shots later but in the meantime.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awaiting a solid bridge for the card tho....


Looks great! Love it.

Btw, is it worth it getting a lightbox for making photos? Looks like they are really cheap on amazon for about 40 Euros a 80x80x80cm ones.


----------



## CryptiK

Great builds in here!

Couple from my current build

https://flic.kr/p/qJGgbJ

https://flic.kr/p/qKunoh


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Studio shots later but in the meantime.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awaiting a solid bridge for the card tho....
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great! Love it.
> 
> Btw, is it worth it getting a lightbox for making photos? Looks like they are really cheap on amazon for about 40 Euros a 80x80x80cm ones.
Click to expand...

If you want to photo rigs then a 1500x1500 is what you need,I have a 1000x1000 and its too small.


----------



## emsj86

upgraded pump too and ddc res pump top upgrade and new tubing. Thinking of changing to x1 and buying a led for the po too to have it pop.  here is another  thoughts? Things I can change for the better. I would like to get new psu and all custom blue black and grey or silver sleeving. Will post videos and all photos on my build log "blue blurry 2.0 petg"


----------



## electro2u

Are tinted acrylic windows permanent or can they be somehow made into clear windows? Why are so many case manufacturers offering windows only tinted really dark. Hate it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> 
> 
> enter
> upgraded pump too and ddc res pump top upgrade and new tubing. Thinking of changing to x1 and buying a led for the po too to have it pop.
> 
> 
> 
> enter
> here is another enter
> 
> 
> 
> enter
> thoughts? Things I can change for the better. I would like to get new psu and all custom blue black and grey or silver sleeving. Will post videos and all photos on my build log "blue blurry 2.0 petg"


Just so you know when you add a pic to a post press enter after it, your posts are a bit hard to read and I go over them several times or flat our ignore them, I've wanted to ask you questions before about your rig too but you've been here a while and still haven't filled in a rig builder for your sig.

Not an attack just a passing comment on how to format your posts and such, love the rig btw!

EDIT: It seems the size you select when importing images seems to cause a bit of an issue on my screen, having a break either side of the image seems to format the images and overall structure of the post better.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you want to photo rigs then a 1500x1500 is what you need,I have a 1000x1000 and its too small.


Thx, will look into that.


----------



## emsj86

I will fill in my rig and fix the pictures


----------



## Boxlid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Homemade shrouds using sheets 1/2" HDPE on both push and pull side of both my radiators


Taking matters into our own hands, gotta love it







Nice rig and great pics B NEGATIVE, looks a little like my air compressor.


----------



## Boxlid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Will shrouds for my sp120 fans gain me good performance or our we talking a degree or 2


They work awesome, but specific radiator and fans used are factors as well.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Nice touch with the Queen's House in the background.


Haha, I was about to reply and say "lol that's Greenwich, not a palace", but that building is indeed called _Queen's House_


----------



## emsj86

link to video of blue blurry going from 1.0 to 2.0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CzSBT47p4c&feature=youtu.be

build log link : http://www.overclock.net/t/1519439/blue-blurry-build-log-by-itzems-phanteks-enthoo-pro-case-new-version-2-0-petg-tubing

rig/sig coming tomorrow gotta get ready to go for my birthday, enjoy


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> Looks awesome and am looking forward to see it running, Nice Work!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower makes me moist


Where do I getthis been looking everywhere

Also I'm going to have to reconfigure my loop, I can't seem to fill the reservoir completely as well the drain port area I need to figure out, but the meyhems black is in and no leaks, but there are so many air bubbles it looks like coffee!


----------



## emsj86

Very nice darwing


----------



## s7Design

here is my water cooled S7 desk



you can check out more pictures in the build log

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521831/build-log-the-s7-desk-build-my-first-desk-build


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Where do I getthis been looking everywhere
> 
> Also I'm going to have to reconfigure my loop, I can't seem to fill the reservoir completely as well the drain port area I need to figure out, but the meyhems black is in and no leaks, but there are so many air bubbles it looks like coffee![]


Yeah, but awesome coffee! I like it, actually more with the little froth that you have going. It's not going to stay that way but I like the pics with it there. Is there any aurora in there or is it just black coolant, like you are going for an oil filled look?


----------



## IT Diva

Thought I'd show off the midplate for my Diva's Dementia build a little:





Darlene


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought I'd show off the midplate for my Diva's Dementia build a little:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Crazy cool. I like the red and blue. Would be cool with a July 4th theme build


----------



## sinnedone

Looks very interesting there Diva.

I'm on mobile right now so it's kind of hard to tell but how is it put together?

Looks like a mirror base, let's in the middle, and a glass top. Is that correct?


----------



## Murder Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought I'd show off the midplate for my Diva's Dementia build a little:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


isn't this called infinity mirror? however it looks amazing!
watch out so you dont fall into it, you might never come back









EDIT:¨
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks very interesting there Diva.
> 
> I'm on mobile right now so it's kind of hard to tell but how is it put together?
> 
> Looks like a mirror base, let's in the middle, and a glass top. Is that correct?


yes you're right, some use tinted glass on top.
here is one way of doing it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murder Inc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought I'd show off the midplate for my Diva's Dementia build a little:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> isn't this called infinity mirror? however it looks amazing!
> watch out so you dont fall into it, you might never come back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:¨
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks very interesting there Diva.
> 
> I'm on mobile right now so it's kind of hard to tell but how is it put together?
> 
> Looks like a mirror base, let's in the middle, and a glass top. Is that correct?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yes you're right, some use tinted glass on top.
> here is one way of doing it
Click to expand...

It is your basic infinity mirror, with some tweaks to make it work as a mid/base plate in my Caselabs TH10A build.

I set it up with all the groups separately cabled so I can run it from an Aquacomputer Farbwerk controller, and it has a piece of 1/2" acrylic on top of it that all the pumps and exchangers mount on.

The base is 1/4" glass mirror, the leds are on 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick aluminum flat bar, and the top is 1/4" glass 2-way mirror.

It's 1" high, not counting the acrylic that goes on top, or the risers that support the base mirror above the nuts and screw heads in the bottom of the case.

This was the test fit of the original mock-up in the case:



Darlene


----------



## jleslie246

Can someone recommend a translucent white cooling fluid? I cannot find one. Thank you.


----------



## CryptiK

Infinity mirror looks awesome man









Translucent white fluid - dilute ice dragon with distilled water, kinda looks pearly translucent. That's the closest thing I can think of.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Will shrouds for my sp120 fans gain me good performance or our we talking a degree or 2


pretty sure you don't gain anything from shrouding non-square framed fans
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Can someone recommend a translucent white cooling fluid? I cannot find one. Thank you.


diluted mayhems pastel white


----------



## Ceadderman

Some really Sharp builds on this last page guys









BNeg bro you gotta be the biggest tease here. I mean c'non bruh Studio shots? The last pics you put up are Pro quality.









Love that infinity mirror setup Diva.

Thought I would weigh in with my thought on shrouds...

Good idea if you run Rads with a high FPI count. I found that I averaged 3-5c gain when I ran a homebilt shroud on the Push side of my H50. When I went with my HWLabs Stealth II, I installed 7mm shroud silencers an only got ~2c increase over running w/o shrouds.

The shrouds allow the airflow to cover more surface area. A low FPI radiator likely would not show significant performance gains with a shroud in the setup. Just my







from my own experience.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Some really Sharp builds on this last page guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BNeg bro you gotta be the biggest tease here. *I mean c'non bruh Studio shots? The last pics you put up are Pro quality*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that infinity mirror setup Diva.
> 
> Thought I would weigh in with my thought on shrouds...
> 
> Good idea if you run Rads with a high FPI count. I found that I averaged 3-5c gain when I ran a homebilt shroud on the Push side of my H50. When I went with my HWLabs Stealth II, I installed 7mm shroud silencers an only got ~2c increase over running w/o shrouds.
> 
> The shrouds allow the airflow to cover more surface area. A low FPI radiator likely would not show significant performance gains with a shroud in the setup. Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from my own experience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


By studio,i mean my kitchen and a big roll of grey vinyl.....









My photo's are well behind the likes of Snef and James fella,im just amateur night when it comes to photo's


----------



## aka13

On a scale from 1-10 how ******ed is it to solder an SATA y-splitter?


----------



## Ceadderman

I wouldn't. But that's just me. @ least not w/o a heatsink clamp to wick away the heat. Fan cables an Y splitter cables can be wrecked with a solder iron. Best bet is build your own with pins, thecorrect ga of wire etc. Create your own SATA extensions for the best results imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't. But that's just me. @ least not w/o a heatsink clamp to wick away the heat. Fan cables an Y splitter cables can be wrecked with a solder iron. Best bet is build your own with pins, thecorrect ga of wire etc. Create your own SATA extensions for the best results imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's exactly what I want to do. I want to power 2 HDDs, 2 SSDs and a small led strip, so there shouldn't be too much current. But for it to look optically good I need it splitted into 2 rows, and for that I need y-splitter or alternatively 2 cables from the psu, what I do not really want to do.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> That's exactly what I want to do. I want to power 2 HDDs, 2 SSDs and a small led strip, so there shouldn't be too much current. But for it to look optically good I need it splitted into 2 rows, and for that I need y-splitter or alternatively 2 cables from the psu, what I do not really want to do.


If you use the right gauge wire and it's done correctly you can make a sata power splitter. I've done it a few times.


----------



## fleetfeather

bit of a strange question here, but is one 60x50mm thermal pad enough for all the ram chips on 4gb gtx 970 card? would definitely prefer to not overspend on fujipoly pads if possible.

(i've got a used waterblock here that came without thermal pads)


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> If you use the right gauge wire and it's done correctly you can make a sata power splitter. I've done it a few times.


What gauge do you recommend?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> What gauge do you recommend?


18 gauge, that's what I use.


----------



## aka13

Those american nomenclatures are driving me crazy. 0,8mm2 it is. Thank you for sharing


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> bit of a strange question here, but is one 60x50mm thermal pad enough for all the ram chips on 4gb gtx 970 card? would definitely prefer to not overspend on fujipoly pads if possible.
> 
> (i've got a used waterblock here that came without thermal pads)


you would use ~10 mm x 12 mm for each ram chip (perhaps even less). How many do you have in your card? From a quick search it looks like 8. So it seems would be enough but check the correct number of ram chips and do the math.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> bit of a strange question here, but is one 60x50mm thermal pad enough for all the ram chips on 4gb gtx 970 card? would definitely prefer to not overspend on fujipoly pads if possible.
> 
> (i've got a used waterblock here that came without thermal pads)
> 
> 
> 
> you would use ~10 mm x 12 mm for each ram chip (perhaps even less). How many do you have in your card? From a quick search it looks like 8. So it seems would be enough but check the correct number of ram chips and do the math.
Click to expand...

How about the vrms . . . .

do they use the same thickness and what thickness is required for the mem chips?

Maybe look at the block on the EK site, assuming it was an EK block, and see if the installation instructions pdf is there as well . . . it should tell about the pads.

Darlene


----------



## aka13

I just recetly installed a EK waterblock on a 970 strix, there were 2 different thicknesses there -
0,5 mm for memory
1mm for vrm


----------



## emsj86

.

.



Figure I throw up a few photos without paper towels. Bleeding/leak check is over. The Pump is mounted using ek housing and phanteks pump bracket. Works very well and has good airflow front the front fans. I was surprised how it made the pump silent even at full speed.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> pretty sure you don't gain anything from shrouding non-square framed fans
> diluted mayhems pastel white


Thanks for the information. Do you know what the difference is between the pastel UV white and the pastel ice white? And will "UV" coolants react to regular white LED's?


----------



## emsj86

The difference I believe is just the uv. From what I've seen the pastel uv doesn't glow as much as clear uv dyes or coolants. Uv well show on some leds like blue and uv led but works best on the cathodes.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Very nice darwing


Thank you ☺

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Yeah, but awesome coffee! I like it, actually more with the little froth that you have going. It's not going to stay that way but I like the pics with it there. Is there any aurora in there or is it just black coolant, like you are going for an oil filled look?


Lol I don't like the milky look but I'm going to reconfigure the entire res/loop combo so im going to have to flush the system and re-do it

So does anyone know where I can buy that gold bits power res?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Studio shots later but in the meantime.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awaiting a solid bridge for the card tho....


NICE build! I would love to do a build in one of those cases.


----------



## emsj86

@darwing was that premix you used. I wonder if just straight distilled and black dye would give you that better pure black that shines. Right now the coolant like you said is milky rather than popping out at you or shining. Either way I like it. The gold isn't crazy all over the place but where it is at looks nice my next build I want to go more suttle. @b negative what our your thoughts on the new I win case )I beeline it's the s any and for it? And for the community on this thread. What our some cases with side mounted rads like the corsair 900d. Our there any that our under 500 like 200-400 range. I really like that look and the option for a mid plate. I hope to one day have a build like jt ones I see here. I'm proud of the one I have for my first time (literally my first pc I got march 2014, so I'm still new to this learning as I go and taking in the ideas and Info from the vets here )


----------



## snef

Some Final night shot of Icy Blue Angel, more final photos this Monday







[/url]


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It is your basic infinity mirror, with some tweaks to make it work as a mid/base plate in my Caselabs TH10A build.
> 
> Darlene


Ah, Didn't think of the two way mirror. Looks real good regardless.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> By studio,i mean my kitchen and a big roll of grey vinyl.....


Lol, regardless of location thats one hell of a studio you got there.









Looking good *snef* and *emsj86*









I've been working on my build lately and I wanted to ask some opinions. I'm running crossfire 290's with EK blocks and where the tubing enters and leaves the cards I have two Monsoon 90's. I purchased 2 of those EK logo fluted side plugs to sit them next to the monsoon rotaries to match instead of the included hex key plugs. Thats the only place I was thinking about using them its only for that reason. Here are a couple of pictures showing what I mean.




So what yall think? Yey or ney?









They are rather sexy though.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/DSC00441_zps67ab1af2.jpg.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Studio shots later but in the meantime.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awaiting a solid bridge for the card tho....
> 
> 
> 
> NICE build! I would love to do a build in one of those cases.
Click to expand...

You should,its an amazing case. In Win are my number one right now,hands down. So much so that im trying to get a S Frame from them for my SR2


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So what yall think? Yey or ney?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are rather sexy though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/DSC00441_zps67ab1af2.jpg.html


They are nice but... EK logo and Bitspower dragon are everywhere on my builds and it gets to be too much. I can't say I think it's overdone on your build though. I like the graphic plugs, I admit.


----------



## emsj86

The silver monsoon fittings I saw on your earlier pics I wasn't sure but it looks nice as it comes together. Wish I could build like Snef. Thinking of sleeving my psu


----------



## Ceadderman

The EK/Monsoon connections look like they were MEANT to be 2tether.









~Ceadder


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you would use ~10 mm x 12 mm for each ram chip (perhaps even less). How many do you have in your card? From a quick search it looks like 8. So it seems would be enough but check the correct number of ram chips and do the math.


gotcha. wasn't sure what size the ram chips were







yep, there's 8 of them on my card
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How about the vrms . . . .
> 
> do they use the same thickness and what thickness is required for the mem chips?
> 
> Maybe look at the block on the EK site, assuming it was an EK block, and see if the installation instructions pdf is there as well . . . it should tell about the pads.
> 
> Darlene


1mm for vrms, 0.5mm for ram chips







my block is a watercool heatkiller block
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I just recetly installed a EK waterblock on a 970 strix, there were 2 different thicknesses there -
> 0,5 mm for memory
> 1mm for vrm











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Thanks for the information. Do you know what the difference is between the pastel UV white and the pastel ice white? And will "UV" coolants react to regular white LED's?


pretty sure the only difference is the presence of UV reactive particles







UV particles don't react to non-intensive UV light sources like regular white LEDs

---

How does one control the speed of a non-PWM DDC3.2 pump? I wouldn't of thought a molex resistor would work due to the DDC pump's high start-up voltage


----------



## Majentrix

Loving this NB/VRM block. Bitspower fittings have a lovely finish too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving this NB/VRM block. Bitspower fittings have a lovely finish too.


Looks like the bottom fitting collar is not connected? You might wanna take care of that.









~Ceadder


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> How does one control the speed of a non-PWM DDC3.2 pump? I wouldn't of thought a molex resistor would work due to the DDC pump's high start-up voltage


AquaComputer Power Adjust 3 works pretty well.

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3197


----------



## DarthBaggins

I just snagged a Power Adjust 2 off the marketplace, I thought it was bad to adjust voltage on pumps (ddc's) that are non-pwm since I could've sworn I had seen somewhere in this thread it would burn out those non-pwm pumps. If not then cool glad I'll be able to slow the flow in my loop till I up to a pair of D5/DDC's.
My main purpose for the PA2 was to control my rad fans a bit more than via BiOS


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> AquaComputer Power Adjust 3 works pretty well.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3197


ahh right on! thanks!


----------



## electro2u

This is OT , forgive me but Aquatuning just made me really mad.

Bought 2 290x backplanes (well 1 290 1 295) from them with the heatpipe additions that aquacomputer makes. I realized the 2 of them weren't exactly compatible because the terminal is about twice as big and they don't match up. So I asked them if I could return them since they were unopened and get the regular backplates instead. They said yes. So I spent 30$ shipping them back and Aquatuning won't pay the import charge from the German customs to get them. They tried to tell me I forgot some forms. The tracking shows they cleared customs and are being held for import charges to the addressee. The seller says they will be returned to me at my expense or destroyed. Opened dispute with PayPal, who said over the phone that Aquatuning is required to pay the import fee. I even offered for them to take the import fee out of the refund amount. Curious what will happen.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> This is OT , forgive me but Aquatuning just made me really mad.
> 
> Bought 2 290x backplanes (well 1 290 1 295) from them with the heatpipe additions that aquacomputer makes. I realized the 2 of them weren't exactly compatible because the terminal is about twice as big and they don't match up. So I asked them if I could return them since they were unopened and get the regular backplates instead. They said yes. So I spent 30$ shipping them back and Aquatuning won't pay the import charge from the German customs to get them. They tried to tell me I forgot some forms. The tracking shows they cleared customs and are being held for import charges to the addressee. The seller says they will be returned to me at my expense or destroyed. Opened dispute with PayPal, who said over the phone that Aquatuning is required to pay the import fee. I even offered for them to take the import fee out of the refund amount. Curious what will happen.


Thats no bueno

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wow that's really shady on their part I don't see why they dont just eat the import costs to save face w/ customers, but I guess they think it wont affect them.


----------



## VSG

Sad to hear that, but looks like Paypal's got your back at least.

In other news, the Asus RVE EK monoblock seems to be almost ready:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> This is OT , forgive me but Aquatuning just made me really mad.
> 
> Bought 2 290x backplanes (well 1 290 1 295) from them with the heatpipe additions that aquacomputer makes. I realized the 2 of them weren't exactly compatible because the terminal is about twice as big and they don't match up. So I asked them if I could return them since they were unopened and get the regular backplates instead. They said yes. So I spent 30$ shipping them back and Aquatuning won't pay the import charge from the German customs to get them. They tried to tell me I forgot some forms. The tracking shows they cleared customs and are being held for import charges to the addressee. The seller says they will be returned to me at my expense or destroyed. Opened dispute with PayPal, who said over the phone that Aquatuning is required to pay the import fee. I even offered for them to take the import fee out of the refund amount. Curious what will happen.


In any case just to let you known I just saw those backplates on PPC.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Thank you ☺
> Lol I don't like the milky look but I'm going to reconfigure the entire res/loop combo so im going to have to flush the system and re-do it
> 
> So does anyone know where I can buy that gold bits power res?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I got mine directly from bitspower:


----------



## DarthBaggins

^What case is that?! Guessing In Win


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> ^What case is that?! Guessing In Win


S frame


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> I got mine directly from bitspower:


Im looking on their site I cannot find it









can you send me the link and how much was it, as well as shipping or is there a contact person I can get in touch with?


----------



## korruptedkaos

so i got to playing about again today









small pattern



larger pattern



now it bends & holds its strength







, it doesnt really deform the pattern too much either








now i need to find a paint that will easily rub into the etched area & off the face of the tube.

look at the first pic with the red fluid. that is white silicone.

although i want to do it the other way around, white fluid & red paint.

any recommendations on a paint type?


----------



## SynchroSCP

New build complete...as if a build is really ever complete. Build log in my sig.


----------



## Mongoose135

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> New build complete...as if a build is really ever complete. Build log in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome. Good job


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> New build complete...as if a build is really ever complete. Build log in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh So Clean







Love the UV also in this one.

The Cautious One


----------



## stealth80

Just in the process of changing the Antec blue fans over to red leds, just waiting on last 2 Aerocools to arrive for radiator


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Im looking on their site I cannot find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you send me the link and how much was it, as well as shipping or is there a contact person I can get in touch with?


Hit the contact page up on bitspower site. They do special orders through email.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mongoose135*
> 
> Looks awesome. Good job


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh So Clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the UV also in this one.
> 
> The Cautious One


Thanks!







I really like the UV blue color, this is my 3rd build with that color scheme and still love the effect. This is my first acrylic build tho and the UV is a bit strong as compared to soft tubing which keeps it more toned down, I'm going to try some other coolants and/or lighting see if I can get a more muted UV effect. No hurry tho.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> so i got to playing about again today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> small pattern
> 
> 
> 
> larger pattern
> 
> 
> 
> now it bends & holds its strength
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it doesnt really deform the pattern too much either


That is laser cut into the tube?!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Has anyone here used a Koolance CPU-370 on an LGA2011 Board? I know its an old block but I still have it. It is listed as compatible but I don't see how it would work. I also don't have an LGA2011 board to test it with.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That is laser cut into the tube?!


yeah, only very lightly though.

i need to find a paint that will easily wipe in it now









ive gone through all the testing of bending & leak testing etc.

so now that its really possible, i need to sort out a nice pattern & the paint.









thanks for +rep aswell dude


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I just snagged a Power Adjust 2 off the marketplace, I thought it was bad to adjust voltage on pumps (ddc's) that are non-pwm since I could've sworn I had seen somewhere in this thread it would burn out those non-pwm pumps. If not then cool glad I'll be able to slow the flow in my loop till I up to a pair of D5/DDC's.
> My main purpose for the PA2 was to control my rad fans a bit more than via BiOS


It's the other way around mate. The standard ddc's are designed to be voltage controlled and power adjusts were designed to control them. It is pwm devices that don't like being voltage controlled because they are designed to run on a steady 12volts.


----------



## Eze2kiel

I was tired of him drown the tubing.





So I made a homemade spring.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Has anyone here used a Koolance CPU-370 on an LGA2011 Board? I know its an old block but I still have it. It is listed as compatible but I don't see how it would work. I also don't have an LGA2011 board to test it with.


Here it is on a RIVE with a 3930:



Darlene


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here it is on a RIVE with a 3930
> 
> Darlene


Thanks! It was the text on the actual block that threw me off. Is that the same mounting bolts as lga1155?


----------



## unequalteck

Here's my humble spec
Intel i5-3570k
Asus Maximus V Formula
GSkill Ripjaws X 4gb x 2 DDR3
EVGA ACX cooling GTX770 2GB GDDR5
Samsung evo 250GB SSD
WD Scorpio Blue 1TB HDD
Corsair AX760 80+ PSU
Corsair Obsidian 450D


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Question, how long does it take to dry a rad in the oven on 50°?

Also can you dry fittings and crap in the oven to or is it better to just let them air dry?

Thanks









Also go my new rads and crap so fingers crossed my damn build works this time


----------



## Cyclops

What's with all the straight tubes these days? People forgotten how to bend them already?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> What's with all the straight tubes these days? People forgotten how to bend them already?


I prefer my acrylic tubing with fittings. I don't have anything against bent tubing though.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my humble spec
> Intel i5-3570k
> Asus Maximus V Formula
> GSkill Ripjaws X 4gb x 2 DDR3
> EVGA ACX cooling GTX770 2GB GDDR5
> Samsung evo 250GB SSD
> WD Scorpio Blue 1TB HDD
> Corsair AX760 80+ PSU
> Corsair Obsidian 450D


Looking good there unequalteck.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> What's with all the straight tubes these days? People forgotten how to bend them already?


I think its a look certain people like. Bending tube isn't for everyone though as it requires ALOT of patience.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Question, how long does it take to dry a rad in the oven on 50°?
> 
> Also can you dry fittings and crap in the oven to or is it better to just let them air dry?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also go my new rads and crap so fingers crossed my damn build works this time


Why are you drying them in an oven?!?!?!?!?!?! Got a compressor or vacum? that helps but air drying is ideal. Fittings, you can easily dry those off w/ paper towels (though oven, not recommended, just take off the o-ring). Sounds like you're in a rush. i understand the anticipation can be hard, but take your time as mistakes can easily happen.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> What's with all the straight tubes these days? People forgotten how to bend them already?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I prefer my acrylic tubing with fittings. I don't have anything against bent tubing though.
Click to expand...

After free handing some hard tube, its a pita and difficult. I know about the kits. Honestly, I think the main reason for straight tube is that it gives you a tighter bend vs a form bend. If I was to return to acrylic, i would also go w/ a bunch of 90s. You can find some inexpensive 90s and some extra fittings will probably run you about the same as a full bending kit. Lastly, I think it looks smarter w/ 90s. My









-wermad


----------



## sinnedone

The bendy bits can look so nice though.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why are you drying them in an oven?!?!?!?!?!?! Got a compressor or vacum? that helps but air drying is ideal. Fittings, you can easily dry those off w/ paper towels (though oven, not recommended, just take off the o-ring). Sounds like you're in a rush. i understand the anticipation can be hard, but take your time as mistakes can easily happen.


I didnt want to leave them open to air dry them seeing I have a cat and dust on everything lol, thought the oven would be the quickest easiest way to dry the rads

I'm not exactly in a rush (been waiting 4 months for my pc, whats another 3 days) I just wanted to clean and dry everything quick so tomorrow (when its hopefully cooler) its ready to build


----------



## wermad

rads are typically copper and/or brass. quick blast with a compressor will help w/ the outside. Did your rads come in dirty/dusty from the outside? If you dunked them, and still are worried about any remaining water, let them air dry overnight and sit them outside w/ the sun drying them as well. As far as internal, quick rinse using hot tap and then flush w/ distilled or di.

My three monsta 480s were squeaky clean. Just the used components had to be thoroughly cleaned due to the previous owner(s) using colored liquid (fittings, pump, res, block).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> The bendy bits can look so nice though.


Yeah, there's nothing I LUV more about any watercooling loop than proper bends, and nothing I don't care for more than loops that use a bunch of fittings instead. Some say it has an industrial look they prefer, but I don't can't see it that way. Fittings instead of bends looks gaudy to me, like someone spent money for nothing only because they lacked patience. I know that's not necessarily the case but that's just what it looks like to me. I'd rather see flexible tubing used than that. To each their own.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> rads are typically copper and/or brass. quick blast with a compressor will help w/ the outside. Did your rads come in dirty/dusty from the outside? If you dunked them, and still are worried about any remaining water, let them air dry overnight and sit them outside w/ the sun drying them as well. As far as internal, quick rinse using hot tap and then flush w/ distilled or di.
> 
> My three monsta 480s were squeaky clean. Just the used components had to be thoroughly cleaned due to the previous owner(s) using colored liquid (fittings, pump, res, block).


Thanks, maybe I'll clean them tomorrow when the suns out

I did have one of my old ones in the oven at around 60° for 3 hours... did nothing









I'm really paranoid about algae and crap growing now seeing it screwed my last block and rads


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> The bendy bits can look so nice though.


To me, its almost like traditional tube. Its a lot more involved and those who have the patience and know-how can pull it off. But its something you can mimic using clear tube. Almost defeats the purpose of the hard lines....I think its like plumbing; nice straight runs look sharp imho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks, maybe I'll clean them tomorrow when the suns out
> 
> I did have one of my old ones in the oven at around 60° for 3 hours... did nothing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really paranoid about algae and crap growing now seeing it screwed my last block and rads


Yeah, I wouldn't risk running it through an oven. You need some air flow to quickly dry or let them sit outsidefor a few hours (sun). You're far from the solder melting but it could warp the rad and maybe cause a leak w/ the channels. Too risky imho.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, I wouldn't risk running it through an oven. You need some air flow to quickly dry or let them sit outsidefor a few hours (sun). You're far from the solder melting but it could warp the rad and maybe cause a leak w/ the channels. Too risky imho.


Yeah thought so to thats why I did it on my old radiators first, wasnt gonna risk my brand new ones


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah thought so to thats why I did it on my old radiators first, wasnt gonna risk my brand new ones


I just broke my loop down the other day and gave my rads a good washing out. I just stuck them on my bar on towels with some fans hooked up to move air through them. I don't have a cat to worry about though







. They were dry withing a few hours but I gave them the benefit of a doubt and let them run like that for a while to completely dry.


----------



## fakeblood

Slight revision to my loop. Added Dual Rotaries to the top rad for a straighter run. Also switched out the Pastel for Dye

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02998_zps37a9110d.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02993_zps5c95375f.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Interesting poll they got going on at ppcs:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Slight revision to my loop. Added Dual Rotaries to the top rad for a straighter run. Also switched out the Pastel for Dye
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02998_zps37a9110d.jpg.html
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02993_zps5c95375f.jpg.html


Great looking hard lines


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, there's nothing I LUV more about any watercooling loop than proper bends, and nothing I don't care for more than loops that use a bunch of fittings instead. Some say it has an industrial look they prefer, but I don't can't see it that way. Fittings instead of bends looks gaudy to me, like someone spent money for nothing only because they lacked patience. I know that's not necessarily the case but that's just what it looks like to me. I'd rather see flexible tubing used than that. To each their own.


This. To me, using straight tubes with a bunch of 90s is just lazy and a huge waste of money. A meter of acrylic 10/12 is like 4 bucks from Dazmode. How much are those 90s? At least 10 bucks a piece I bet.

This was my first hard tube project and although it ain't perfect and took way longer than it would if I were to just use 90s, I'd do it all over again, but that's just me.



Full album Here


----------



## B NEGATIVE

For me,a mix of fittings and bends is best,use the fittings when you need too,don't restrict yourself just to have one or the other.


----------



## electro2u

I never actually stuck my rads in an oven but I've heard it's OK to do on low heat. I don't remember where. Maybe it's a dumb thing to do.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here it is on a RIVE with a 3930
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! It was the text on the actual block that threw me off. Is that the same mounting bolts as lga1155?
Click to expand...

No,

iirc, it comes with 4 studs that screw into the original 2011 backplate on the mobo.

Darlene


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> This. To me, using straight tubes with a bunch of 90s is just lazy and a huge waste of money. A meter of acrylic 10/12 is like 4 bucks from Dazmode. How much are those 90s? At least 10 bucks a piece I bet.


Hmmm...you didn't have to buy a heatgun, bending kit, extra lengths of tubing (just in case you goofed up), jigs, polish etc? After a lot of research and pricing things out for my build the cost of the tools needed to do bending correctly pretty much negates the cost of using 90's instead. I much prefer the clean lines that using fittings produces, especially in the style of case I have. Easier, cleaner, more adaptable should I decide to change hardware and works just as well...was a no brainer to me.

To each their own and not worth an argument, but calling people lazy for doing their research and deciding their own path is...well...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You sure don't need a 'bending kit' to make perfect bends and not sure why anyone would use a 'polish' for acrylic tube, especially that's been bent instead of straight runs and fittings.

People were making acrylic loops with their own bending jigs before companies like Monsoon tried to capitalize on the market with a bending set. Many of us who did buy the Monsoon bending kit often don't use their mandrels opting instead for our own. I've had good success using an empty roll of teflon tape as a former.

A heatgun is a necessity to bend acrylic or petg tubing, but one of those typically cost $20 or less. And well, yeah, you will need some extra tubing for scrap especially at first, but depending on where you buy your tube it can cost less than $1 ft. For example, McMaster-Carr 6' lengths of 1/2" OD 3/8" ID are under $4.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think I'll be ordering my tube from McMaster as PrimoChill's tubing is way overpriced for a 24" section (other than the one section I have cost me shipping lol)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I think I'll be ordering my tube from McMaster as PrimoChill's tubing is way overpriced for a 24" section (other than the one section I have cost me shipping lol)


When you order from McMaster, be aware that it ships in 6 foot lengths, and as such, has a very premium shipping charge to most locations, so it's not actually as much of a savings as it seems at first.

Additionally, several guys have reported that it comes all bundled together and arrives with surface scratches, where as the expensive stuff from our usual suppliers comes in plastic wrap, . . . so there's another consideration to weigh.

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was going to order a tube or two, and leave special instructions to wrap each individually to protect from scratching (they have a spot to input special handling requests) also looks like they're based here in GA








But normally when I first order from a company I tend to do a small order to test them out then if I like how I received said item(s) I'll order again or in this case I can go pick it up which would save me shipping cost on 2 6ft tubes (which I would think would/should be enough to do a couple loops)


----------



## Detoxification

Black Ice SR2 480mm up top
Swifttech 240mm in the bottom
Swiftech MCP655 Pump
EK Dual bay spin reservoir
Swiftech GTX Apogee CPU Block
Swiftech Universal GPU Block


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoxification*
> 
> Black Ice SR2 480mm up top
> Swifttech 240mm in the bottom
> Swiftech MCP655 Pump
> EK Dual bay spin reservoir
> Swiftech GTX Apogee CPU Block
> Swiftech Universal GPU Block


Clean dat rad before taking those shots.









I some what like the bold lense type picture thingy.

Looks weird, that tiny 240 rad in that massive rad space on the floor.









*Hello boys/galls*,

I am in the possibility to buy an 290x nickel plexi fullcover from someone whose pump died shortly after buying the block. He decided to sell his loop all together.
Asked price is €75 (86 USD). New pricing is €102 (117 USD) where I'm at.

Here is the link to the ad, so you can see the state it is in:
http://tweakers.net/aanbod/754437/ek-waterblocks-ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel.html

Yay or nay?

I firstly had my mind set on a fullcover with an Acetal block, read on the web that plexi has a potential of cracking. Or is that BS?
Don't care about asthetics that much as I use plain distilled anyway(no color).

Also, is there a big difference in the rev 2.0 versus the 1.0?

Oh, btw. The Acetal nickel will cost €104.

What would you do?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I think I'll be ordering my tube from McMaster as PrimoChill's tubing is way overpriced for a 24" section (other than the one section I have cost me shipping lol)


Okay just wondering here but when I look at the prices on FrozenCPU.com you can get a 4 pack of 24 inch tubes which is 8 feet of tubing for $19.99(plus shipping) and a 10 foot package of the flexible tubing for $24.99(plus shipping). I've never done a loop with rigid tubing but I'd imagine that once you understand how to bend it and you get decent at bending without making many mistakes it would probably end up costing less than the flexible tubing does. That is providing that sipping is similar between the 2 as I don't know what Frozen charges for shipping on the rigid tubing.


----------



## morencyam

Plexi can crack if you screw the fittings in too hard, but it seems like a good enough deal that I would get it


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay just wondering here but when I look at the prices on FrozenCPU.com you can get a 4 pack of 24 inch tubes which is 8 feet of tubing for $19.99(plus shipping) and a 10 foot package of the flexible tubing for $24.99(plus shipping). I've never done a loop with rigid tubing but I'd imagine that once you understand how to bend it and you get decent at bending without making many mistakes it would probably end up costing less than the flexible tubing does. That is providing that sipping is similar between the 2 as I don't know what Frozen charges for shipping on the rigid tubing.


Well total for my 12ft w/ shipping came to $14.00, but for the next order I set it for will-Call so it will be just shy of $8 for 12ft







Also depends on the flexible tubing you get I know there are other companies other than Primo that cost less, then if there's no staining or discoloration in the flexible tube you can re-use it for other builds vs acrylic is one go per build due to restrictions on the bends made or sections cut.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well total for my 12ft w/ shipping came to $14.00, but for the next order I set it for will-Call so it will be just shy of $8 for 12ft
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also depends on the flexible tubing you get I know there are other companies other than Primo that cost less, then if there's no staining or discoloration in the flexible tube you can re-use it for other builds vs acrylic is one go per build due to restrictions on the bends made or sections cut.


Well if you reuse the same case some of the rigid sections might be used again as long as you want to keep your loop routed the exact same way. Just depends on the differences between the layouts of the 2 motherboards.

But lets face it computers as a whole but water cooling specifically is not a cheap hobby by any means


----------



## Detoxification

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Clean dat rad before taking those shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I some what like the bold lense type picture thingy.
> 
> Looks weird, that tiny 240 rad in that massive rad space on the floor.


that was taken from my old case, Antec something. Now that I have the LD PC-V8 I plan to get two more Black Ice SR2s to pair with the one up top.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Plexi can crack if you screw the fittings in too hard, but it seems like a good enough deal that I would get it


Hmmm.
I sometimes tend to overtighten stuff.

But, by having a second look at the block. The part where you screw in the fittings isn't even plexi.








That's acetal, right?

So, there are no major issues with EK plexi blocks leaking?
My Supremacy Evo plexi copper is working fine btw. And I did tighten it as hard as I could(by hand).

*Is it okay?*
The guy that has the block for sale cleaned the nickel plating with ArctiClean.
Is that a problem?

EK states the following about cleaning:
Quote:


> When cleaning nickel plated copper it is forbidden to use any aggressive chemicals (neither vinegar) or rough materials as you may damage the plating and thus void the warranty.


Is ArctiClean aggresive?


----------



## snef

perpetual question, bended tube or angle fittings

i like both when they are done well, i did both and i will do bended and angle fittings in future
but i like more angle fittings,

my next project will be bended,

when i look at some photo and see wrong bending on tube and i read, "using a angle fittings is just because we are lazy to bend".........

please dont be so lazy and redo correctly your tubing

please do it correctly before saying any comments like that

if its not your taste, no need to bash all others because you dont like what they did









sorry to bring back this, my 2 cents


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> perpetual question, bended tube or angle fittings
> 
> i like both when they are done well, i did both and i will do bended and angle fittings in future
> but i like more angle fittings,
> 
> my next project will be bended,
> 
> when i look at some photo and see wrong bending on tube and i read, "using a angle fittings is just because we are lazy to bend".........
> 
> please dont be so lazy and redo correctly your tubing
> 
> please do it correctly before saying any comments like that
> 
> if its not your taste, no need to bash all others because you dont like what they did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry to bring back this, my 2 cents


Is this aimed at anyone in particular?


----------



## snef

not necerssarily, not you









in fact everyone who said using angle fittings is lazy instead only saying he dont like that


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> not necerssarily, not you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in fact everyone who said using angle fittings is lazy instead only saying he dont like that


IMO it's just a different style.
Both can look good or bad.

Thats my vision.

Still...

Cleaning Nickel plating with ArctiClean?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Snef & B NEG?

do you guys have a bromance going on lol?


----------



## snef

hahahahhah i like the gif

no B-Neg as nothing to do in this story


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> hahahahhah i like the gif
> 
> no B-Neg as nothing to do in this story


awwwwwwwww. oh ok nvm









thought id have a bit of a laugh with you guys hehe.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> please dont be so lazy and redo correctly your tubing
> 
> please do it correctly before saying any comments like that


Too funny, was thinking the same thing snef.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> not necerssarily, not you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in fact everyone who said using angle fittings is lazy instead only saying he dont like that
> 
> 
> 
> IMO it's just a different style.
> Both can look good or bad.
> 
> Thats my vision.
> 
> Still...
> 
> Cleaning Nickel plating with ArctiClean?
Click to expand...

Here's the MSDS http://www.arcticsilver.com/PDF/acn/ACN1_MSDS_3.pdf
I don't see anything in there to indicate it's corrosive. Wouldn't be much different than using alcohol IMO


----------



## Ceadderman

I paid ~$17 for the monsoon hardline tubing. It comes in a rigid cardboard shell that protects the hull out of it and when you think about it breaking down the cost it's about a little over a buck a foot. Well worth it imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

@B Negative, thank you for nominating my build for the MOTM contest. Personally I never though of it at the same level to go on the Pro class and was giving some thought on giving a go on the amateur class. I am honored just to be nominated, specially by you. That been said...I guess I need those aluminum extrusion for the leds ASAP to finish the build in time







. I also guess I need to take the final pictures for it.


----------



## Agenesis

Trying to buy a tiny bottle of Mayhems Dye and all retailers wants like $15 shipping for it. Don't know f I'm being cheap or I'm just spoiled by Amazon.


----------



## DarthBaggins

What color did you need, I have some red and ocean blue


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I switched out my Primochill Advanced LTR for some Tygoon Norprene and I switched from XT1 to Pastel. Its definitely not as pretty as half the builds on this site, but I am extremely happy with it.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Trying to buy a tiny bottle of Mayhems Dye and all retailers wants like $15 shipping for it. Don't know f I'm being cheap or I'm just spoiled by Amazon.


Is that sleeved soft tubing?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Trying to buy a tiny bottle of Mayhems Dye and all retailers wants like $15 shipping for it. Don't know f I'm being cheap or I'm just spoiled by Amazon.


fwiw, at least looking at the shipping options for where I live more than half the country away from either ...
Performance PCs has Mayhems Dyes for $9 + $4.50 cheapest shipping option = $13.50 total.
FrozenCPU has Mayhems Dyes for $10 + $4 cheapest shipping option = $14 total.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hmmm.
> I sometimes tend to overtighten stuff.
> 
> But, by having a second look at the block. The part where you screw in the fittings isn't even plexi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's acetal, right?
> 
> *So, there are no major issues with EK plexi blocks leaking?*
> My Supremacy Evo plexi copper is working fine btw. And I did tighten it as hard as I could(by hand).
> 
> *Is it okay?*
> The guy that has the block for sale cleaned the nickel plating with ArctiClean.
> Is that a problem?
> 
> EK states the following about cleaning:
> Is ArctiClean aggresive?


I'd only like to point out my very unique experience with ONE block leaking, and it wasn't really the block. The VRM block for my Asus Rog Hero (in sig) needed a short height adaptor to use Primochill's Ghost fittings on. Towards the bottom hole for the fitting there is a screw hole for one of the screws that holds the block together. The Ghost fittings use a pretty wide surfaced o-ring and it actually overlapped that hole, creating quite the leak. So it's not really the block leaking but poor placement of the fitting hole in relation to the screw hole. Just my


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Just cleaned my new XSPC EX multiport rads, still surprises me how clean XSPC rads are considering how cheap they are









I got another question, can I have a 90° fitting in the top of the rad and a 90° out one of the side ports?



Spoiler: What I mean







Thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Just cleaned my new XSPC EX multiport rads, still surprises me how clean XSPC rads are considering how cheap they are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got another question, can I have a 90° fitting in the top of the rad and a 90° out one of the side ports?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: What I mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


yes, no problem. And yes XSPC rads are quite clean although HWlabs are even cleaner.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yes, no problem. And yes XSPC rads are quite clean although HWlabs are even cleaner.


Thanks







just wasnt sure if they had to be setup a specific way or not


----------



## 97discosd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is that sleeved soft tubing?


waiting for a reply never seen this before!


----------



## lowfat

You can use SATA sized sleeving on 1/2" OD tubing. Koolance compression rings usually have enough slack to allow the sleeving to fit under the compression ring.


----------



## emsj86

I've seen you do it lowfat that's why I was asking bc I have t seen it done before. I really like the look of the sleeving. May try it out my self sometime. I saw you mentioned before you had to reem out your primochill fittings to do so if I'm correct


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> perpetual question, bended tube or angle fittings
> 
> i like both when they are done well, i did both and i will do bended and angle fittings in future
> but i like more angle fittings,
> 
> my next project will be bended,
> 
> when i look at some photo and see wrong bending on tube and i read, "using a angle fittings is just because we are lazy to bend".........
> 
> please dont be so lazy and redo correctly your tubing
> 
> please do it correctly before saying any comments like that
> 
> if its not your taste, no need to bash all others because you dont like what they did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry to bring back this, my 2 cents


when I see lots of angle fittings I think lots of $$$$ so its not lazy because I am sure you work hard for your money

I like both either way I admire a lot of peoples work in here

I am lazy I slapped my PC together in 2 days and haven't bothered to change the coolant in 2.5years I am waiting to see when I start to have temperature problems then I will do a complete tear down


----------



## universall1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> perpetual question, bended tube or angle fittings
> 
> i like both when they are done well, i did both and i will do bended and angle fittings in future
> but i like more angle fittings,
> 
> my next project will be bended,
> 
> when i look at some photo and see wrong bending on tube and i read, "using a angle fittings is just because we are lazy to bend".........
> 
> please dont be so lazy and redo correctly your tubing
> 
> please do it correctly before saying any comments like that
> 
> if its not your taste, no need to bash all others because you dont like what they did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry to bring back this, my 2 cents


you can see here what i did with angle fittings and soft tubing , and let me know what do you think ?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1533186/my-first-new-build-ever


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I've seen you do it lowfat that's why I was asking bc I have t seen it done before. I really like the look of the sleeving. May try it out my self sometime. I saw you mentioned before you had to reem out your primochill fittings to do so if I'm correct


Before using sleeving over acrylic I had done it with soft tubing many times. Koolance fittings require no modding.


----------



## emsj86

So ot but I see all these nice powerful awesome builds and I wonder what is everyone playing game wise?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Its time

TCO


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Its time
> 
> TCO


Damn it.

I want one of those cases.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Damn it.
> 
> I want one of those cases.


I used to say the same thing. just pull the tridder

TCO


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So ot but I see all these nice powerful awesome builds and I wonder what is everyone playing game wise?


Minecraft lol

I actually haven't played anything in a while. Just been playing some FTL on my Surface Pro 3 until I figure out how the heck I am going to mount my 3 monitors. I have a clamp style stand, but nothing to clamp to. Thinking about building some kind of wall mount instead


----------



## Bluemustang

Quick question on reservoir. I want to use This bitspower res and it has 1 port on one end and 3 on the other. Technically the 3 port is supposed to be the bottom, but is there any reason why i cant put the single port on the bottom for an outlet (connected right to a d5 pump) and the 3 port end on the top for an inlet and fill/bleed?

And obviously can i move the thing that sticks into the water to the top with the 3 ports?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Quick question on reservoir. I want to use This bitspower res and it has 1 port on one end and 3 on the other. Technically the 3 port is supposed to be the bottom, but is there any reason why i cant put the single port on the bottom for an outlet (connected right to a d5 pump) and the 3 port end on the top for an inlet and fill/bleed?
> 
> And obviously can i move the thing that sticks into the water to the top with the 3 ports?


I don't see why not, including the internal tubing to be able to use top port in the loop.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Woot Woot







tubing arrived, definitely doing will-call next time that way I can have it w/in a couple hours vs 24 w/ shipping
Yup it's 6ft per tube - I'm 5'9" (no scratches either, they wrapped it in saran wrap)


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*


mmm, toolboxes


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Quick question on reservoir. I want to use This bitspower res and it has 1 port on one end and 3 on the other. Technically the 3 port is supposed to be the bottom, but is there any reason why i cant put the single port on the bottom for an outlet (connected right to a d5 pump) and the 3 port end on the top for an inlet and fill/bleed?
> 
> And obviously can i move the thing that sticks into the water to the top with the 3 ports?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I don't see why not, including the internal tubing to be able to use top port in the loop.


nope there is no reason why you can't use it that way, the seals on either end of the tube are exactly the same and the only difference in the end caps is the number of holes that they drilled and tapped. You could even order another end cap with the three holes and have one on each end if you wanted to. I have seen build logs on here where the res you are referring to has been used in the exact manner you are asking about, if I find it I'll post it.

I'm going to mount said res to a pass through in a case mid panel so I can put the pump semi out of sight in the chamber below and connect from pass through to pump with tubing, same basic idea as what you want to do.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Woot Woot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tubing arrived, definitely doing will-call next time that way I can have it w/in a couple hours vs 24 w/ shipping
> 
> 
> 
> [/CENTER]


Dude I love the color on that Matco Box


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol that's my box too


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Its time
> 
> TCO


Schweeeet!


----------



## rlb9682

Well, this was my first try at acyrlic and I can't say I'm really happy with how it came out as there are a number of things I'm going to change soon. In fact, in most photos you'll see I even laid out the the tubing in the wrong spot on the video card (tubing is running in 1 port like an "in" instead of "in" and "out' I fixed that later but when I took the pics it was incorrect.

Anyway, here's what I ended up with.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> lol that's my box too


Don't have a pic at the moment but when I bought mine I wanted something that was extremely different than the black and red you always see and since my 2 favorite colors have always been blue and purple I have a purple Matco box and side box and the matching tool cart







Everyone in the shop I worked in at the time instantly named it Barney







Kinda wished I thought about that before I ordered it


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Its time
> 
> TCO


CONGRATS









ENJOY









I'm jealous









LoL


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlb9682*
> 
> Well, this was my first try at acyrlic and I can't say I'm really happy with how it came out as there are a number of things I'm going to change soon. In fact, in most photos you'll see I even laid out the the tubing in the wrong spot on the video card (tubing is running in 1 port like an "in" instead of "in" and "out' I fixed that later but when I took the pics it was incorrect.
> 
> Anyway, here's what I ended up with.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Its pretty good for your first go. I was like that. Just use more fittings or re-arrange it so you don't need to do to many bends.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> CONGRATS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ENJOY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm jealous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LoL


Im ready to get off so I can spend some time with it, you know smell it and fill it up with Parts and All that Jealous Stuff.

TCO


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> nope there is no reason why you can't use it that way, the seals on either end of the tube are exactly the same and the only difference in the end caps is the number of holes that they drilled and tapped. You could even order another end cap with the three holes and have one on each end if you wanted to. I have seen build logs on here where the res you are referring to has been used in the exact manner you are asking about, if I find it I'll post it.
> 
> I'm going to mount said res to a pass through in a case mid panel so I can put the pump semi out of sight in the chamber below and connect from pass through to pump with tubing, same basic idea as what you want to do.


Sweet.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlb9682*
> 
> Well, this was my first try at acyrlic and I can't say I'm really happy with how it came out as there are a number of things I'm going to change soon. In fact, in most photos you'll see I even laid out the the tubing in the wrong spot on the video card (tubing is running in 1 port like an "in" instead of "in" and "out' I fixed that later but when I took the pics it was incorrect.
> 
> Anyway, here's what I ended up with.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


just a suggestion if your un happpy with your tube layout is to go gpu to top rad than top rad to cpu and cpu to top of reservior, so you don t have that run from the rad to the reservior. Either way good job just thought I d make a suggestion since you said you were un happy with it. here is how i did mine


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## rlb9682

Do orange and purple and that would put a smile on my face! If
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> just a suggestion if your un happpy with your tube layout is to go gpu to top rad than top rad to cpu and cpu to top of reservior, so you don t have that run from the rad to the reservior. Either way good job just thought I d make a suggestion since you said you were un happy with it. here is how i did mine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, that's what I want to change it to, but I'll upgrade my video card soon and change it around taht way then. I hadn't thought in advance with the reservoir ports only being at the back of the caps which made the use of rotary fittings necessary. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion as that's what I plan on doing next.

BTW, what reservoir is that and does it have the pump attached? I can't tell from that angel in the pic.


----------



## emsj86

Just some pictures of my build after leak testing and I put up a rig builder.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlb9682*
> 
> BTW, what reservoir is that and does it have the pump attached? I can't tell from that angel in the pic.


it is a bitspower multi z tank reservior 150ml mounted to a ddc pump, using the bitspower ddc upgrade kit. also has bp acrylic polished pump top and ek ddc housing black. the housing is mounted to my bottom rad fans using phanteks pump bracket. as seen in the picture


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## rlb9682

Very nice bends you have there, that looks great. How do you like the Phanteks case?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlb9682*
> 
> Very nice bends you have there, that looks great. How do you like the Phanteks case?


I like it a lot. Wish I went for the luxe or primo but the luxe wasn't out yet (I got the pro upon its release) and I didnt plan at the time to watercool. For a 85usd case I couldnt ask for anything more expect more space for push pull or thicker rads, but what i have now actually performs very well. I cant think of a better case for the money and under 200 dollars. I have been wanting to get a caselabs though but telling the little guy on my shoulder to hold off lol


----------



## emsj86

Can someone help me match a ek plexi motherboard block for my atx Asus pro wifi


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can someone help me match a ek plexi motherboard block for my atx Asus pro wifi


Config

TCO


----------



## Razor 116

Upgrade from my old setup, Supreme LTX to Supremacy, Cablemods sleeved cables and added an EK Mosfet block also changed all fittings from nickel to black and tidied up the overall loop shortening and removing that horrible long run going from the CPU to the 240 Rad in the front. The GPU block will be changed to match the other blocks when I upgrade to the 980ti/Titan II. There are LED strips in the top and bottom but taking a picture with these turned on from my phone just doesn't work.


Spoiler: Before






Spoiler: Even more before :D












Spoiler: After


----------



## VSG

Looks great


----------



## sinnedone

Agree with VSG.

Shorter tubing runs looks alot cleaner. Nice job.


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Quick question on reservoir. I want to use This bitspower res and it has 1 port on one end and 3 on the other. Technically the 3 port is supposed to be the bottom, but is there any reason why i cant put the single port on the bottom for an outlet (connected right to a d5 pump) and the 3 port end on the top for an inlet and fill/bleed?
> 
> And obviously can i move the thing that sticks into the water to the top with the 3 ports?


I'm afraid your assumption is wrong. That reservoir is designed for the 3 port end to be the top and the 1 port end to be the bottom, and for the port with the inner metallic tube (aqua-pipe) to be the inlet and the port at the bottom with the anti-cyclone to be the outlet.

Water Tank Z-Multi 250 (POM Version)

BP-WTZM250P-BK Installation guide


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> I'm afraid your assumption is wrong. That reservoir is designed for the 3 port end to be the top and the 1 port end to be the bottom, and for the port with the inner metallic tube (aqua-pipe) to be the inlet and the port at the bottom with the anti-cyclone to be the outlet.
> 
> Water Tank Z-Multi 250 (POM Version)
> 
> BP-WTZM250P-BK Installation guide


Thanks for the install guide now I can stop trying to find a pic of the res being used like that


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> I'm afraid your assumption is wrong. That reservoir is designed for the 3 port end to be the top and the 1 port end to be the bottom, and for the port with the inner metallic tube (aqua-pipe) to be the inlet and the port at the bottom with the anti-cyclone to be the outlet.
> 
> Water Tank Z-Multi 250 (POM Version)
> 
> BP-WTZM250P-BK Installation guide


Ok cool, thats the way i first imagined it working but i've watched youtube videos where they say the 3 port is the bottom and the tube sticks up (also it says that on ppcs);
"Bottom part gives user 3 options for placing the G1/4" fittings/barbs as inlet or outlet.
Top with G1/4" thread is can be used for additional fitting/barb as inlet of filling port. The compensating reservoir is very easy to fill and is sealed with high quality rubber gasket."

Also, that installation guide says silver shining tube, it isnt actual silver i hope?


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can someone help me match a ek plexi motherboard block for my atx Asus pro wifi


EK does not make a MOBO block for the Asus pro wifi.

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> EK does not make a MOBO block for the Asus pro wifi.
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist


If you're looking for a Mosfet/VRM block then I think you'll find that mostly they only make those blocks for the very top tier boards, usually like the ROG boards etc. But you can probably find universal blocks that would do the same thing, just make sure they are the same basic measurements as the stock heatsinks, where the contact the board that is.


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Thanks for the install guide now I can stop trying to find a pic of the res being used like that


Look here: LD PC-V8 Watercooled PC & Mod. That is, if you can stop laughing, mate.

Or check here and see how the aqua-pipe is used: Singularity Computers


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> I'm afraid your assumption is wrong. That reservoir is designed for the 3 port end to be the top and the 1 port end to be the bottom, and for the port with the inner metallic tube (aqua-pipe) to be the inlet and the port at the bottom with the anti-cyclone to be the outlet.
> 
> Water Tank Z-Multi 250 (POM Version)
> 
> BP-WTZM250P-BK Installation guide


It makes no difference which is top or bottom, just as long as the aqua tube that goes down into the coolant is at the top if the top is being used as an inlet. I've seen it used both ways. If you really wanted to, you could even pick up an extra 3-port end cap and replace the single port cap so both ends have 3-ports.


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Also, that installation guide says silver shining tube, it isnt actual silver i hope?


It means Silver Shining colour: G1/4" Silver Shining Aqua-Pipe I


----------



## fleetfeather

I'm about to make a F-CPU order peeps







Quick opinions since I can't decide:

Norprene tube, or Adv LRT clear?










---

I'm a sucker for that stealth matte black look, and would prefer to not deal with plasticiser issues... but I feel that loop bleeding will be significantly more difficult


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I'm about to make a F-CPU order peeps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick opinions since I can't decide:
> 
> Norprene tube, or Adv LRT clear?


I've used the LRT in 2 builds now with no issues but I've used colored tubing both times so I didn't need to worry about the tubes getting cloudy. But first build ran for 2 year before I drained it and my blocks looked clean and new, only used distilled water and a kill coil.


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It makes no difference which is top or bottom, just as long as the aqua tube that goes down into the coolant is at the top if the top is being used as an inlet. I've seen it used both ways. If you really wanted to, you could even pick up an extra 3-port end cap and replace the single port cap so both ends have 3-ports.


If you use the 1 port end as top, and that port as inlet with the aqua-pipe, how can the loop be filled?

The reservoir as it is, is intended for inlet through top and outlet through bottom.

With the reservoir reversed, inlet and outlet must be through bottom, and the only port at top for filling.

That's the difference I see.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> If you use the 1 port end as top, and that port as inlet with the aqua-pipe, how can the loop be filled?
> 
> The reservoir as it is, is intended for inlet through top and outlet through bottom.
> 
> With the reservoir reversed, inlet and outlet must be through bottom, and the only port at top for filling.
> 
> That's the difference I see.


Makes sense, but technically you could fill and bleed via a port on a radiator


----------



## Razor 116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks great


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Agree with VSG.
> 
> Shorter tubing runs looks alot cleaner. Nice job.


Cheers.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> If you use the 1 port end as top, and that port as inlet with the aqua-pipe, how can the loop be filled?
> 
> The reservoir as it is, is intended for inlet through top and outlet through bottom.
> 
> With the reservoir reversed, inlet and outlet must be through bottom, and the only port at top for filling.
> 
> That's the difference I see.


I have seen builds where the outlet to pump and the inlet back into the Res were both on the bottom of the Res tube, and the Aqua pipe was used on the inlet still so that the water returning to the Res entered mid way up the tube and not right next to the outlet. I guess I'm back to trying to find pics again LoL

Edit:

Found one:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Thanks for the install guide now I can stop trying to find a pic of the res being used like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look here: LD PC-V8 Watercooled PC & Mod. That is, if you can stop laughing, mate.
> 
> Or check here and see how the aqua-pipe is used: Singularity Computers
Click to expand...

Looks just like my V8..except I know what DIMM Slots to use......they obviously dont.


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I have seen builds where the outlet to pump and the inlet back into the Res were both on the bottom of the Res tube, and the Aqua pipe was used on the inlet still so that the water returning to the Res entered mid way up the tube and not right next to the outlet. I guess I'm back to trying to find pics again LoL
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Found one:


I never denied that. Kindly read again.

"With the reservoir reversed, inlet and outlet must be through bottom, and the only port at top for filling."


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> If you use the 1 port end as top, and that port as inlet with the aqua-pipe, how can the loop be filled?
> 
> The reservoir as it is, is intended for inlet through top and outlet through bottom.
> 
> With the reservoir reversed, inlet and outlet must be through bottom, and the only port at top for filling.
> 
> That's the difference I see.


I don't disagree, it would make filling more difficult. But as Bluemustang mentioned, you could fill through an extra radiator port. Or use a T-Line connected to the single top inlet and return line. Just saying that you are not limited to one orientation or the other.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> I never denied that. Kindly read again.
> 
> "With the reservoir reversed, inlet and outlet must be through bottom, and the only port at top for filling."


oops, my bad I thought you said if you did that how would you fill it and you said leaving only the top port for filling.


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I don't disagree, it would make filling more difficult. But as Bluemustang mentioned, you could fill through an extra radiator port. Or use a T-Line connected to the single top inlet and return line. Just saying that you are not limited to one orientation or the other.


So you see factible inlet to the res through the only one port at the top, and then you would have two unused ports at the bottom of the reservoir, and a complicated situation at the top where you can't fill nor bleed, and you have to solve by installing a T-Line or fill through a rad and hope that the air goes backwards through the upper inlet to the rad?

I'd rather put the reservoir straight. That is, for upper inlet and lower outlet.


----------



## Gabrielzm

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-z-cap-iii-with-g1-4-x2-brass-version.html

someone was asking about this. It seems PPC just got those:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-z-cap-i-with-g1-4-x1-brass-version.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-z-cap-iii-with-g1-4-x2-brass-version.html
> 
> someone was asking about this. It seems PPC just got those:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-z-cap-i-with-g1-4-x1-brass-version.html


Oh My... Goodness.

TCO


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-z-cap-iii-with-g1-4-x2-brass-version.html
> 
> someone was asking about this. It seems PPC just got those:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-z-cap-i-with-g1-4-x1-brass-version.html


This would be slick in my SMA8.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> This would be slick in my SMA8.


DO IT

TCO


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> DO IT
> 
> TCO


Copper tubing and those res end caps... I think it would look good.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Copper tubing and those res end caps... I think it would look good.


Yep. I think they will match nicely


----------



## Bluemustang

Hey, if anyone has any knowledge on rigging up LED strips i'd appreciate you checking out my thread









http://www.overclock.net/t/1537388/led-strip-setup/0_100


----------



## Deano12345

I'm not nearly qualified enough to be attempting what I'm doing so I'm going to ask in here before I start planning it more.

My current loop was my first 360 + 120 rads in an 800D, cooling the CPU at the moment, nothing special, and I plan on adding the GPU's when the blocks are released. I would be fine I reckon with my current WC'ing even with the added blocks.....but this is OCN









So my friend gave me a H55 and H100 he was no longer using, and I figured why not add these to the loop, so I took them apart and have the rads off it here beside me. the 240mm rad is not a problem, gonna bottom mount that. Only question is that uses a tubing size down from my loop at the moment, will I be okay going out of the block with the smaller diameter tubing while its the larger going in (its 3/8' 1/2' in the loop right now.) It shouldn't be an issue I just want to check.

Now heres the interesting idea, I want to mount the 120 to the outside of the hot swap bay, it fits fine, even with a fan on it the side closes. My problem with this is there isn't space to bend the tubing to actually plumb it up, so I'm planning on running 90 degree fittings on the rad to solve that issue, or would a rotary fitting be easier to work with ?

Thanks in advance, and feel free to call me stupid if I've missed something really obvious.
















Edit : here's a picture of where the 120 will go


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I'm not nearly qualified enough to be attempting what I'm doing so I'm going to ask in here before I start planning it more.
> 
> My current loop was my first 360 + 120 rads in an 800D, cooling the CPU at the moment, nothing special, and I plan on adding the GPU's when the blocks are released. I would be fine I reckon with my current WC'ing even with the added blocks.....but this is OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my friend gave me a H55 and H100 he was no longer using, and I figured why not add these to the loop, so I took them apart and have the rads off it here beside me. the 240mm rad is not a problem, gonna bottom mount that. Only question is that uses a tubing size down from my loop at the moment, will I be okay going out of the block with the smaller diameter tubing while its the larger going in (its 3/8' 1/2' in the loop right now.) It shouldn't be an issue I just want to check.
> 
> Now heres the interesting idea, I want to mount the 120 to the outside of the hot swap bay, it fits fine, even with a fan on it the side closes. My problem with this is there isn't space to bend the tubing to actually plumb it up, so I'm planning on running 90 degree fittings on the rad to solve that issue, or would a rotary fitting be easier to work with ?
> 
> Thanks in advance, and feel free to call me stupid if I've missed something really obvious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit : here's a picture of where the 120 will go


The first thing about this that comes to mind to me is what materials are the rads in those AIOs made of? I vaguely remember hearing they often use aluminum. If thats the case i wouldnt put that in your loop.


----------



## emsj86

So I think I found my next case. Anyone ever mount side rad or have a pictures of a build in this case. I like that's it's not huge but has slot to offer. Caselabs mecury s8.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I think I found my next case. Anyone ever mount side rad or have a pictures of a build in this case. I like that's it's not huge but has slot to offer. Caselabs mecury s8.


Just got mine, you won't regret it! It's amazing!


----------



## emsj86

When and if you can put some photos up. I plan to mount a 360 on the side where the hdd goes than a 360 ut60 on top on psu side. Than mount my 150ml ek housing ddc pump/res combo next to the board and have windows on the side, front (above io), and on top (so top would have one side window the other 360 rad. ). Been looking for a case that could mounted a 360 rad without having extra space


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When and if you can put some photos up. I plan to mount a 360 on the side where the hdd goes than a 360 ut60 on top on psu side. Than mount my 150ml ek housing ddc pump/res combo next to the board and have windows on the side, front (above io), and on top (so top would have one side window the other 360 rad. ). Been looking for a case that could mounted a 360 rad without having extra space


It's all in my build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1536425/
The 120.3 side mount has just been shipped express so I should have that soon but there's plenty of other stuff to look at for now. About to do the actual build now, final parts arrived a few hours ago (expect the last lot of fans).


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> The first thing about this that comes to mind to me is what materials are the rads in those AIOs made of? I vaguely remember hearing they often use aluminum. If thats the case i wouldnt put that in your loop.


I never even thought of that ! They are aluminium unfortunately, now my journey for a thin 120/140 rad begins !


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I never even thought of that ! They are aluminium unfortunately, now my journey for a thin 120/140 rad begins !


I remember seeing some very thin full copper chinese rads somewhere, but the build quality was


----------



## Ceadderman

You can get a Hardware Labs 140/120mm stealth Rad for between $30-45 before shipping here in the States. I am on my phone atm so I don't know if ur local or abroad. But if ur local try PPC's. They are sure to have it and you can get it in primer too for a little less than painted and paint it urself.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deano12345

Im
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can get a Hardware Labs 140/120mm stealth tax for between $30-45 before shipping here in the States. I am on my phone atm so I don't know if ur local or abroad. But if ur local try PPC's. They are sure to have it and you can get it in primer too for a little less than painted and paint it urself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm not local but I should be able to get my hands on one of them easy enough. Thanks !


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-z-cap-iii-with-g1-4-x2-brass-version.html
> 
> someone was asking about this. It seems PPC just got those:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-z-cap-i-with-g1-4-x1-brass-version.html


What a fantastic community, I was looking for this res, one of the users on here sent me a pm and gave me a contact at bitspower to inquiry about the res and where I could pick it up or custom purchase.

Then shortly after that another member messaged me saying he JUST saw them on performancepcs website and that I should get one for my build









And now this post mentioning he saw someone asking about these so they post it ????

What a great community to help out each other in building their dream rigs!!! I purchased my V2 250ml res yesterday !!!!




To go into this



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> What a fantastic community, I was looking for this res, one of the users on here sent me a pm and gave me a contact at bitspower to inquiry about the res and where I could pick it up or custom purchase.
> 
> Then shortly after that another member messaged me saying he JUST saw them on performancepcs website and that I should get one for my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now this post mentioning he saw someone asking about these so they post it ????
> 
> What a great community to help out each other in building their dream rigs!!! *I purchased my V2 250ml res yesterday* !!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To go into this










glad to see you got one with them having such a limited stock. I can't wait to see it installed. I think it will look much better than that Phobya one. Plus there might be more routing options due to the extra ports of the Bitspower.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glad to see you got one with them having such a limited stock. I can't wait to see it installed. I think it will look much better than that Phobya one. Plus there might be more routing options due to the *extra ports* of the Bitspower.


That's why I can't turn the Res Down in the First Place. Tons of options to play around with for configurations.

The Cautious One


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glad to see you got one with them having such a limited stock. I can't wait to see it installed. I think it will look much better than that Phobya one. Plus there might be more routing options due to the extra ports of the Bitspower.


thats actually why I got it immediately, there are tons of options with the phobya one as it has then on the side and the bottom, however the top piece only has 1 entry, so if your going back to the top of the res, you need to buy a splitter, however that doesnt work for filling the loop as I found out because you have to open it to fill more, but then it is overflowing because the loop is still entering there LOL


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> What a fantastic community, I was looking for this res, one of the users on here sent me a pm and gave me a contact at bitspower to inquiry about the res and where I could pick it up or custom purchase.
> 
> Then shortly after that another member messaged me saying he JUST saw them on performancepcs website and that I should get one for my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now this post mentioning he saw someone asking about these so they post it ????
> 
> What a great community to help out each other in building their dream rigs!!! I purchased my V2 250ml res yesterday !!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To go into this
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad to help mate and I feel the same way about this community so I always try to give it back as much as I can since I got tons of help around here.







It will look killer in your rig. I didn't found your post but I recall someone mentioning and hoped that you would see my post.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Okay time for me to sound like a noob again, well at least to this portion of water cooling









I'm think of using Rigid tubing in my next build and I was wondering what is the best or optimal Tubing Size??

Thanks in advance as always for the help and advice


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay time for me to sound like a noob again, well at least to this portion of water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm think of using Rigid tubing in my next build and I was wondering what is the best or optimal Tubing Size??
> 
> Thanks in advance as always for the help and advice


It depends a lot more on what visual you have imagined than anything. There is no difference in performance between larger and smaller ID tubes and that is true for rigid and non-rigid tubing. So, think on the visual you want. Larger or smaller tubes? What fittings you want? What brand and color? Those are the questions I would try to answer before deciding which tube ID/OD to use.


----------



## Tunz

I got tired of the red and changed a few things. Sorry for the pic quality, I need to get a real camera.
Before:


After:


----------



## aka13

Looks great, I like it more than the red.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It depends a lot more on what visual you have imagined than anything. There is no difference in performance between larger and smaller ID tubes and that is true for rigid and non-rigid tubing. So, think on the visual you want. Larger or smaller tubes? What fittings you want? What brand and color? Those are the questions I would try to answer before deciding which tube ID/OD to use.


Thanks as always Gabriel, you may have just made this massively simple. I'd like to you the Bitspower fittings and if I'm seeing things correctly on FrozenCPU, then it looks like I'll be using 12mm tubing since that's the size that most of the fittings are for.


----------



## morencyam

Amazing what subtle changes can do to the overall look. I much prefer the monochrome look over the red accents. Nice work


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Thanks as always Gabriel, you may have just made this massively simple. I'd like to you the Bitspower fittings and if I'm seeing things correctly on FrozenCPU, then it looks like I'll be using 12mm tubing since that's the size that most of the fittings are for.


BP has also come out with 16mm fittings and tubing if you prefer larger diameter tubing


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Looks great, I like it more than the red.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Amazing what subtle changes can do to the overall look. I much prefer the monochrome look over the red accents. Nice work


Thanks, I like it this way better as well. I just wish there was enough room to fit the sound card in the top slot where it can be seen. The ColdZero backplate is too thick to fit under the I/O cover on the mb.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> BP has also come out with 16mm fittings and tubing if you prefer larger diameter tubing


Thanks, but I like the look of the 7/16" flexible tubing I'm using now and that would be just north of 11mm so 12mm would work great for me


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I got tired of the red and changed a few things. Sorry for the pic quality, I need to get a real camera.
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


Very nice, that is very similar to the build i just ordered is going to look like, at least color scheme wise. Except for my gpu terminal and cpu block will be plexi so i can see the mayhems ice white running through there.

Looks like the same fittings i ordered too (primochill anodized black 3/8x1/2 rigid revolver straight knurled)


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Thanks, but I like the look of the 7/16" flexible tubing I'm using now and that would be just north of 11mm so 12mm would work great for me


That's 7/16" ID correct? That would make the OD 5/8", which is just under 16mm.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Thanks, I like it this way better as well. I just wish there was enough room to fit the sound card in the top slot where it can be seen. The ColdZero backplate is too thick to fit under the I/O cover on the mb.


That's a shame, Patuga makes some good stuff. I like both iterations of your build myself!


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's a shame, Patuga makes some good stuff. I like both iterations of your build myself!


He does make good stuff. I'll be getting an sli bridge cover from him when his UV printer is back up. I blame asus. I don't think any card with a backplate would fit there.


----------



## VSG

Depends on the backplate thickness I suppose, but yeah there's very little room up there.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I got tired of the red and changed a few things. Sorry for the pic quality, I need to get a real camera.
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Both look awesome








How is the top rad doing as inlet? I'm currently running my top as outlet but I got the feeling it isn't doing a lot because it sucks in the air that gets exhausted by the bottom rad.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Both look awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is the top rad doing as inlet? I'm currently running my top as outlet but I got the feeling it isn't doing a lot because it sucks in the air that gets exhausted by the bottom rad.


Thank you! I've always run it that way so I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes. FWIW I'm idling at 22C (stock clock at the moment, running naked die with CLU) but it's kind of cold in here.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Thank you! I've always run it that way so I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes. FWIW I'm idling at 22C (stock clock at the moment, running naked die with CLU) but it's kind of cold in here.


Ah alright. Hoped to have a comparison








Oh well I'm gonna try it myself then.
I got temp sensors from my aquaero on the air intake and exhaust of the radiator and it's usually a way smaller delta then the bottom radiator.
Tomorrow I'm getting my ordered CLU so after delidding I might as well try changing the fans around.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Ah alright. Hoped to have a comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well I'm gonna try it myself then.
> I got temp sensors from my aquaero on the air intake and exhaust of the radiator and it's usually a way smaller delta then the bottom radiator.
> Tomorrow I'm getting my ordered CLU so after delidding I might as well try changing the fans around.


Let me know when you get it finished. I'm interested in seeing what kind of a difference it makes.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Let me know when you get it finished. I'm interested in seeing what kind of a difference it makes.


I couldn't wait so I did it right away and I can tell you, top intake is way better.
Here's a screen of earlier today with top radiator as outtake:


And here's as intake:


Notice the delta T on the top radiator, it's working way harder now (which is actually expected seeing it gets colder air into it)
Thanks for giving me the idea, can't believe I didn't think of this when I started building it haha.

Tomorrow I should be able to get even lower temps after delidding it


----------



## Boxlid

Received my thermal epoxy yesterday, so got the raid card squared away permanently lol


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I couldn't wait so I did it right away and I can tell you, top intake is way better.
> Here's a screen of earlier today with top radiator as outtake:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's as intake:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the delta T on the top radiator, it's working way harder now (which is actually expected seeing it gets colder air into it)
> Thanks for giving me the idea, can't believe I didn't think of this when I started building it haha.
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to get even lower temps after delidding it


Nice difference there. Are you going to run bare die or put the ihs back on?


----------



## Gabrielzm

A small video of the Aurora 2 in "Chessboard":

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coTarfLgEY4&feature=youtu.be


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> A small video of the Aurora 2 in "Chessboard":
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coTarfLgEY4&feature=youtu.be


Looks amazing! I'm assuming with a loop that big, even though its aurora 2 it won't last long with the crystals catching on every block in the rig, is this just for show or for performance?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Looks amazing! I'm assuming with a loop that big, even though its aurora 2 it won't last long with the crystals catching on every block in the rig, is this just for show or for performance?


Thanks







and it is just for show. However, that loop is made of just two ek titan blocks so it should last longer specially if the loop stay on. So I don't think deposition would be a problem there. Right now I am running pastel grey actually and the aurora is stored away. That was shot like a month ago before even cable management was finished.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's 7/16" ID correct? That would make the OD 5/8", which is just under 16mm.


Oops, you're right I don't know why I was only thinking of the ID


----------



## sinnedone

Liking that aurora Gabrielzm.









How was cleaning when you swapped it out for the pastel?

On another note, I finished tubing up my build.














Started filling it up only to find out I had a bad/leaky rotary 90.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got my new rads in finally & went with another different pump / res setup once again, I actually kinda like this res setup a little more, it gives me slightly more space to work with cables, keeps it top of the res completely clear of the GPU (dunno why the GPUs sagging either its got a backplate on it







) and also means I can easily change the speed by taking off the front plates

Potato pic











This is just mocked up atm, waiting on a new plate for the pump seeing I had a derp moment and drilled the holes in the wrong spots







and it also has holes from the other stand setup so I thought a new plate would be better than a holy one









How do you guys think it looks, think it'll actually work this time? filling from the top rad now instead of the res and have all the inlet and outlet ports on the blocjs to what the manuals say

One other question regarding my res and the internal tube, some of you said the internal tube could cause air to get pushed into the pump so I wanted to see if you guys think I should use it and see what happens, change it to a barb or maybe cut the tube its self



Spoiler: This is what it looks like with the tube and with a barb



Tube normally



Barb





I was thinking maybe the barb or just cutting about 1/4 off the tube (dont know if the coating on it would flake off tho)


----------



## Agenesis

So I have about 75mm to work with on trying to squeeze in a 480 radiator right next to my motherboard.

Radiator: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11759/ex-rad-122/Phobya_XTREME_Quad_480_Radiator.html

It measures 46mm, I was thinking of hooking it up to slim 15mm fans so it'll leave me roughly 14mm to work with to route the 24pin and sata cables.

That is assuming the radiator is realistically 46mm.

http://imgur.com/2u7XWg0.jpg

Thoughts? Should I just scrap the idea? Anyone own this radiator and can take a thickness measurement for me?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Liking that aurora Gabrielzm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How was cleaning when you swapped it out for the pastel?
> 
> On another note, I finished tubing up my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started filling it up only to find out I had a bad/leaky rotary 90.


Unreal beauty!!! I still don't know how people get those bends so perfect and measured out like that do you have any tips for a 3 bend tube?


----------



## Ceadderman

@darwing...

If u use just a single bank of 25mm thick fans you will have another 10mm of wiggle room.

Not sure I would go with the Phobya 480 since HWLabs makes a 480 as well and are more refined in their mfr process but if it specs out at 46mm you should be fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Liking that aurora Gabrielzm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How was cleaning when you swapped it out for the pastel?
> 
> On another note, I finished tubing up my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started filling it up only to find out I had a bad/leaky rotary 90.


I flush with distil a couple of times (3 or 4 times). Fill, run for a while, discard the liquid and repeat. It was not difficult at all to clean it and no residues on the blocks.









It looks great mate, I like it


----------



## overpower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Got my new rads in finally & went with another different pump / res setup once again, I actually kinda like this res setup a little more, it gives me slightly more space to work with cables, keeps it top of the res completely clear of the GPU (dunno why the GPUs sagging either its got a backplate on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and also means I can easily change the speed by taking off the front plates
> 
> Potato pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is just mocked up atm, waiting on a new plate for the pump seeing I had a derp moment and drilled the holes in the wrong spots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it also has holes from the other stand setup so I thought a new plate would be better than a holy one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys think it looks, think it'll actually work this time? filling from the top rad now instead of the res and have all the inlet and outlet ports on the blocjs to what the manuals say
> 
> One other question regarding my res and the internal tube, some of you said the internal tube could cause air to get pushed into the pump so I wanted to see if you guys think I should use it and see what happens, change it to a barb or maybe cut the tube its self
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: This is what it looks like with the tube and with a barb
> 
> 
> 
> Tube normally
> 
> 
> 
> Barb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking maybe the barb or just cutting about 1/4 off the tube (dont know if the coating on it would flake off tho)


Wouldn't it be better to put the 360 rad between gpu and cpu?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Got my new rads in finally & went with another different pump / res setup once again, I actually kinda like this res setup a little more, it gives me slightly more space to work with cables, keeps it top of the res completely clear of the GPU (dunno why the GPUs sagging either its got a backplate on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and also means I can easily change the speed by taking off the front plates
> 
> Potato pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is just mocked up atm, waiting on a new plate for the pump seeing I had a derp moment and drilled the holes in the wrong spots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it also has holes from the other stand setup so I thought a new plate would be better than a holy one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys think it looks, think it'll actually work this time? filling from the top rad now instead of the res and have all the inlet and outlet ports on the blocjs to what the manuals say
> 
> One other question regarding my res and the internal tube, some of you said the internal tube could cause air to get pushed into the pump so I wanted to see if you guys think I should use it and see what happens, change it to a barb or maybe cut the tube its self
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: This is what it looks like with the tube and with a barb
> 
> 
> 
> Tube normally
> 
> 
> 
> Barb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking maybe the barb or just cutting about 1/4 off the tube (dont know if the coating on it would flake off tho)


GPU will still sag with a backplate on. Backplate wont stop it from sagging in the PCI slot.

as for the aquapipe, I have zero issues with mine. My res is marginally taller than yours however (I have the 110) and I am also not using the anti-cyclone fitting. Good luck with the fill!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overpower*
> 
> Wouldn't it be better to put the 360 rad between gpu and cpu?


Maybe but to much tubing and crap, I also have push pull fans on both rads so either way it should be pretty cool
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> GPU will still sag with a backplate on. Backplate wont stop it from sagging in the PCI slot.
> 
> as for the aquapipe, I have zero issues with mine. My res is marginally taller than yours however (I have the 110) and I am also not using the anti-cyclone fitting. Good luck with the fill!


Thats annoying lol

Hmm thanks, guess I'm just gonna have to try and see what happens


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> GPU will still sag with a backplate on. Backplate wont stop it from sagging in the PCI slot.
> :


True ... I often see people refer to backplates as stopping card drooping or sagging and I wonder how they think a thin piece of aluminium is stiffer than the 10mm thick water block that is attached to the front.
Even a perfectly stiff metal bar will still sag if it is only attached or held by two adjacent sides because it isn't the card itself flexing.


----------



## overpower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Maybe but to much tubing and crap, I also have push pull fans on both rads so either way it should be pretty cool


Well, if you don't like how it will look then left it as it is. You probably won't see any big difference at all.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Got my new rads in finally & went with another different pump / res setup once again, I actually kinda like this res setup a little more, it gives me slightly more space to work with cables, keeps it top of the res completely clear of the GPU (dunno why the GPUs sagging either its got a backplate on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and also means I can easily change the speed by taking off the front plates
> 
> Potato pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is just mocked up atm, waiting on a new plate for the pump seeing I had a derp moment and drilled the holes in the wrong spots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it also has holes from the other stand setup so I thought a new plate would be better than a holy one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys think it looks, think it'll actually work this time? filling from the top rad now instead of the res and have all the inlet and outlet ports on the blocjs to what the manuals say
> 
> One other question regarding my res and the internal tube, some of you said the internal tube could cause air to get pushed into the pump so I wanted to see if you guys think I should use it and see what happens, change it to a barb or maybe cut the tube its self
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: This is what it looks like with the tube and with a barb
> 
> 
> 
> Tube normally
> 
> 
> 
> Barb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking maybe the barb or just cutting about 1/4 off the tube (dont know if the coating on it would flake off tho)


The GPU is sagging because both of the tube feeding it are slightly too long and are twisting it.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Nice difference there. Are you going to run bare die or put the ihs back on?


I'm gonna run it with the IHS for now, since I have no naked mounting kit for this waterblock.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Liking that aurora Gabrielzm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How was cleaning when you swapped it out for the pastel?
> 
> On another note, I finished tubing up my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started filling it up only to find out I had a bad/leaky rotary 90.


Looks good, love the minimal use of fittings


----------



## Rahldrac

So what do you guys use to remove fingerprints and similar from backplates on GPUs?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Unreal beauty!!! I still don't know how people get those bends so perfect and measured out like that do you have any tips for a 3 bend tube?


Alot of spare tubing lol. One of those bends took about 6 tries to get right. I actually used the monsoon mandrels plus socket sets, spare aluminum bits, plastic spreaders etc.

For measurements it was fairly crude with half being eye balled since the space was so small to work in on my build there was no way of measuring.

If you have bends right next to each other I suggest making a jig of some sort so that you can heat up the tube and make more than one bend at a time.

I believe I might have some pictures of what I mean, I'll post up later.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I flush with distil a couple of times (3 or 4 times). Fill, run for a while, discard the liquid and repeat. It was not difficult at all to clean it and no residues on the blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks great mate, I like it


Nice to hear. Would be nice to run for a bit just for the pictures like you did.







Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks good, love the minimal use of fittings


Thank you

Was going for that balance of stealthy bends and not going broke buying fittings. Lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So what do you guys use to remove fingerprints and similar from backplates on GPUs?


I've been using a car product called invisible glass. You might want to try plain old water on a microfiber towel first.

While that product is mild, chemicals can sometimes discolor or stain.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I hear that, glad I found a good deal on some Primochill Ghost fittings in the marketplace


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I've been using a car product called invisible glass. You might want to try plain old water on a microfiber towel first.
> 
> While that product is mild, chemicals can sometimes discolor or stain.


I guess alcohol might stain it? I have a lot of the Articlean thermal surface purifier, same stuff I use to get my CPU clean before applying paste.


----------



## sinnedone

Yeah it will remove Paint and is not recommended on acrylic.


----------



## Rahldrac

Hmm, I guess it might be hard to find something that has been tested on backplates here in EU. Might have to try with a microfibre cloth. I'm just terrified of scratching it.


----------



## sinnedone

My go to product for cleaning things is dish washing soap.

Get your microfiber cloth get it all soapy in the sink as if you were about to do dishes, then squeeze all the water out leaving a damp rag.

Follow up with another damp rag of only water or rinse off the one you used with soap.

Safe on pretty much all finishes.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overpower*
> 
> Wouldn't it be better to put the 360 rad between gpu and cpu?


Not at all, order of components makes close to no difference. The only order that always need to be respected is Reservoir > Pump.


----------



## emsj86

Ok so I see people saying there running there die or cpu block naked. Haven't heard that term. What does it mean. Running with no Tim?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ok so I see people saying there running there die or cpu block naked. Haven't heard that term. What does it mean. Running with no Tim?


I'm pretty sure it means that they delidded their processor (removed the IHS) and are running the block directly on the die (Not remounting the IHS) with TIM ofc.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ok so I see people saying there running there die or cpu block naked. Haven't heard that term. What does it mean. Running with no Tim?


It means they dilidded the cpu, (took off the metal heatspreader), and are then running with the waterblock directly on the silicon die itself with TIM between the die and block.

It gives great thermal improvement, but risks chipping/cracking the fragile chip itself.

Darlene


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ok so I see people saying there running there die or cpu block naked. Haven't heard that term. What does it mean. Running with no Tim?


Exactly what ITDiva says.
I personally put back the heatspreader but without the glue and with Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra TIM on the die.
This improved my load temps on the 4790K by 9°C to 11°C

More info on delidding can be found here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ok so I see people saying there running there die or cpu block naked. Haven't heard that term. What does it mean. Running with no Tim?
> 
> 
> 
> It means they dilidded the cpu, (took off the metal heatspreader), and are then running with the waterblock directly on the silicon die itself with TIM between the die and block.
> 
> It gives great thermal improvement, but risks chipping/cracking the fragile chip itself.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

All of this,plus the warping of the base PCB as the stiffening given by the IHS is removed.


----------



## aka13

What if I use spring-mount for the waterblcok, still not worth it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> What if I use spring-mount for the waterblcok, still not worth it?


Not for me to say.
I would re use the IHS myself.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It gives great thermal improvement, but risks chipping/cracking the fragile chip itself.


Actually, from what I've seen, correct me if I'm wrong. There isn't much difference between running bare die and replacing the TIM between the die and the IHS with a liquid metal TIM.

I'd say running bare die only recommended if you really need to have those couple more degrees shaven off. For me the risks outweigh the tiny performance gain.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It gives great thermal improvement, but risks chipping/cracking the fragile chip itself.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, from what I've seen, correct me if I'm wrong. There isn't much difference between running bare die and replacing the TIM between the die and the IHS with a liquid metal TIM.
> 
> I'd say running bare die only recommended if you really need to have those couple more degrees shaven off. For me the risks outweigh the tiny performance gain.
Click to expand...

The great thermal improvement I related to, is over the stock setup.

There's a bit of a gain between bare die and re-using the IHS as you suggest.

Both offer much improvement over the stock setup

Much like yourself, I believe most folks do not see the additional risk of the naked setup as justifying the generally nominal reward, and re-use the IHS as you did.

The OP asked only about the meaning of naked, so I kept the reply narrowly focused.

He's now been exposed to more information, and can understand the difference between naked, and de-lidded then-re-lidded.

Darlene


----------



## ozzy1925

today i wanted to test my pumps but i hear some thin and hum noise coming from them :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4tYH0NMEJE&feature=youtu.be
is this normal?
edit:when i try to move the pumps with my finger hum noise seem to gone but thin noise still there


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it means that they delidded their processor (removed the IHS) and are running the block directly on the die (Not remounting the IHS) with TIM ofc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It means they dilidded the cpu, (took off the metal heatspreader), and are then running with the waterblock directly on the silicon die itself with TIM between the die and block.
> 
> It gives great thermal improvement, but risks chipping/cracking the fragile chip itself.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All of this,plus the warping of the base PCB as the stiffening given by the IHS is removed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The great thermal improvement I related to, is over the stock setup.
> 
> There's a bit of a gain between bare die and re-using the IHS as you suggest.
> 
> Both offer much improvement over the stock setup
> 
> Much like yourself, I believe most folks do not see the additional risk of the naked setup as justifying the generally nominal reward, and re-use the IHS as you did.
> 
> The OP asked only about the meaning of naked, so I kept the reply narrowly focused.
> 
> He's now been exposed to more information, and can understand the difference between naked, and de-lidded then-re-lidded.
> 
> Darlene


All very interesting and thanks to all for the info, it's always a good day when you learn something new


----------



## DarthBaggins

new goodies


----------



## emsj86

Hmmm so now I'm thinking. Of delidding my 4790k. I see tutorials would you say it's easy and is there a lot of risk (meaning even doing it right cause damage and such).


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hmmm so now I'm thinking. Of delidding my 4790k. I see tutorials would you say it's easy and is there a lot of risk (meaning even doing it right cause damage and such).


Depends if you think the temperature drop is worth the risk. I opted not to delid my 4670k because I'm getting fairly good temps without delidding, so I didn't feel it was worth it in my case


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All of this,plus the warping of the base PCB as the stiffening given by the IHS is removed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hmmm so now I'm thinking. Of delidding my 4790k. I see tutorials would you say it's easy and is there a lot of risk (meaning even doing it right cause damage and such).


Easy, yes. Risk free, no.
I used the vice method and was done within an hour (including removing and installing the CPU)
I didn't want to do the razer method because I've seen a couple chips where they cut into the die and killing the cpu.
Doing it gentle and not hastening the process and you should be fine. But it won't be risk free, making a mistake can kill the cpu.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hmmm so now I'm thinking. Of delidding my 4790k. I see tutorials would you say it's easy and is there a lot of risk (meaning even doing it right cause damage and such).


First check if your cpu can benefit from delidding.

-Check if your cores all have similar temperatures under load. If 1 or 2 cores have a much higher temp. than the other ones, you might want to delid. (Although this is much less common in the 4790K)

-Check your max OC. Your CPU might be voltage limited, it might still be beneficial to delid it to decrease temps, but you won't gain any extra OC headroom.


----------



## emsj86

Thank you. I'm sure it's all different but 5-10 degrees is what I would see. Debating I'm at 4.8 on my 4790k. Which is working great but I could see in the future needing I oc more which I'm able to I just don't like my temps above 70-75 which 5gjz oc gives me low 80s high 70s avg. but I may need that extra oc in the future. Hmm what to do


----------



## Ithanul

Woooo, neally that is hot. But yeah, delidding can be nerve wreaking too. At least for me it was since I took a brand spanking new 4770K and delidded it before ever mounting into a motherboard. Least just say that IHS did not want to come off. So I took a block of wood, vice, and a nice rubber mallet to it.







If you do plan to do it. Take your time and be very cautious and gentle as ya can be. So far my 4770K has not seen any where near 60C, at most it will get near 50C at full load, and that with two Titans folding at full load as well.


----------



## ivoryg37

After two years away from watercooling. I decided to jump back on the wagon to give acrylic tubing a go.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Woooo, neally that is hot. But yeah, delidding can be nerve wreaking too. At least for me it was since I took a brand spanking new 4770K and delidded it before ever mounting into a motherboard. Least just say that IHS did not want to come off. So I took a block of wood, vice, and a nice rubber mallet to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do plan to do it. Take your time and be very cautious and gentle as ya can be. So far my 4770K has not seen any where near 60C, at most it will get near 50C at full load, and that with two Titans folding at full load as well.


delliding scares the crap out of me. never had the guts to try it









i wish i could give my 4790k to someone to do for me & do the CLU & everything. it needs it really!

knowing me though id break it in second lol


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> delliding scares the crap out of me. never had the guts to try it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wish i could give my 4790k to someone to do for me & do the CLU & everything. it needs it really!
> 
> knowing me though id break it in second lol


I thought I broke mine. Hehe, since it went for a little flight time when I knocked it off its IHS. So, was very glad when it actually fired up.


----------



## electro2u

I have a perfect setup for delidding. I don't even pop off the hs anymore it let's go a little bit and the i shimmy it the rest of the way.
There was a guy on eBay doing it for profit and he seemed legit. I can do it for you if you want but turn around time would be about a week with shipping both ways. I'd do it for $50 including the clp. That's crazy money for a 10degree drop though.

The secret for me was using an ultra hard piece of wood.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Alot of spare tubing lol. One of those bends took about 6 tries to get right. I actually used the monsoon mandrels plus socket sets, spare aluminum bits, plastic spreaders etc.
> 
> For measurements it was fairly crude with half being eye balled since the space was so small to work in on my build there was no way of measuring.
> 
> If you have bends right next to each other I suggest making a jig of some sort so that you can heat up the tube and make more than one bend at a time.
> 
> I believe I might have some pictures of what I mean, I'll post up later.
> *Nice to hear. Would be nice to run for a bit just for the pictures like you did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks*
> Thank you
> 
> Was going for that balance of stealthy bends and not going broke buying fittings. Lol
> I've been using a car product called invisible glass. You might want to try plain old water on a microfiber towel first.
> 
> While that product is mild, chemicals can sometimes discolor or stain.


You welcome mate. One thing I didn't saw any review or mention so far is the Aurora Booster. It seem to be an add on to any Mayhems (and probably other brands too) that will give some effect like the Aurora line. I will get some next monday and will be putting to use on pastel. I will surely drop my impressions on it here.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-aurora-2-booster-silver.html


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have a perfect setup for delidding. I don't even pop off the hs anymore it let's go a little bit and the i shimmy it the rest of the way.
> There was a guy on eBay doing it for profit and he seemed legit. I can do it for you if you want but turn around time would be about a week with shipping both ways. I'd do it for $50 including the clp. That's crazy money for a 10degree drop though.
> 
> The secret for me was using an ultra hard piece of wood.


thx for the offer..... but id prefer someone uk based & have it insured & sent special delivery









I would give it a go myself but ermmmmm..... i hasnt the balls to try it


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> thx for the offer..... but id prefer someone uk based & have it insured & sent special delivery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would give it a go myself but ermmmmm..... i hasnt the balls to try it


I'd be happy to do it for you. Not that I'm in the UK, but you're about to send me stuff anyway. Done a i7-3770K and two G3258s. Got CLU and nail polish for the transistors on the Haswell-K chips. Moreover have proper metalworking vices at my place of employment. Let me know


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'd be happy to do it for you. Not that I'm in the UK, but you're about to send me stuff anyway. Done a i7-3770K and two G3258s. Got CLU and nail polish for the transistors on the Haswell-K chips. Moreover have proper metalworking vices at my place of employment. Let me know


Done! i didnt know you did delidding.









ill send it with your plates then. a Favour for a Favour Hey.

Just be carefull with my Precious


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Woooo, neally that is hot. But yeah, delidding can be nerve wreaking too. At least for me it was since I took a brand spanking new 4770K and delidded it before ever mounting into a motherboard. Least just say that IHS did not want to come off. So I took a block of wood, vice, and a nice rubber mallet to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do plan to do it. Take your time and be very cautious and gentle as ya can be. So far my 4770K has not seen any where near 60C, at most it will get near 50C at full load, and that with two Titans folding at full load as well.


Is that hot for what I have 1 thin 360 rad and 1 240 rad fans at 800. And 1200 rpms when reaches over 70. Reading that makes me concerned. (4790k at 1.29v) when i play bf4 never reaches past 55. can someone shed light on this for me


----------



## Eze2kiel




----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> i didnt know you did delidding


It's in my sig











I'll be careful


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's in my sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be careful


shows how much attention i pay to SiG's lol

tbh i dont even use the 4790k rig really. its @ 4.7ghz atm at about 73'c under load. but im still using my 3770k rig mostly. it clocks better really & well im tied to it lol. id send my 3770k too but i cant afford to have it out of action.

I may send you that afterwards to do aswell.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is that hot for what I have 1 thin 360 rad and 1 240 rad fans at 800. And 1200 rpms when reaches over 70. Reading that makes me concerned. (4790k at 1.29v) when i play bf4 never reaches past 55. can someone shed light on this for me


Well, I don't run my fans that low though (It takes really loud fans to bother me, I blame it on working around jet engines and bilge fans in a under floor of said planes). Plus I got a 360 and a huge 200mm radiator. Plus, I still need to OC my 4770K and Titans. No doubt when I do that they going to get a little more toasty.


----------



## emsj86

what our trying to do give me a heart attack lol didnt mention you weren't oc first time around. either way I thought 75 on intel burn test max temp wasnt so bad for a 4.8ghz 1.29v oc. But I could be wrong only switched to intel since Dec


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> what our trying to do give me a heart attack lol didnt mention you weren't oc first time around. either way I thought 75 on intel burn test max temp wasnt so bad for a 4.8ghz 1.29v oc. But I could be wrong only switched to intel since Dec


Going to be interesting once I get around to having enough time off to OC my CPU. Hope to push up to that level on the clock since that where I had my little i5 2500K at before I sold it off. But of course that i5 was not sharing a water loop with two big GPUs dumping heat in.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The great thermal improvement I related to, is over the stock setup.
> 
> There's a bit of a gain between bare die and re-using the IHS as you suggest.
> 
> Both offer much improvement over the stock setup
> 
> Much like yourself, I believe most folks do not see the additional risk of the naked setup as justifying the generally nominal reward, and re-use the IHS as you did.
> 
> The OP asked only about the meaning of naked, so I kept the reply narrowly focused.
> 
> He's now been exposed to more information, and can understand the difference between naked, and de-lidded then-re-lidded.
> 
> Darlene


Personally the risk with a naked die isn't worth the gain, now delidding and resetting the IHS to the die, as long as its done carefully and correctly, can be highly worth the risk if the chip is having high variances in the temps (I plan to delid once I have a back up i7 in hand though).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> what our trying to do give me a heart attack lol didnt mention you weren't oc first time around. either way I thought 75 on intel burn test max temp wasnt so bad for a 4.8ghz 1.29v oc. But I could be wrong only switched to intel since Dec


I wouldn't Delid Anything at those temps. I would push more volts for more power if anything.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

I be had it stable at 5ghz before but need 1.35 v. And Ibt max was 86 so I took it back to 4.8 at 1.29v. Now I just downloaded and ram occt max was 68 celius (hottest core) Aida max temp 67, prime (small test) max 90. I think I might delid if I ever need to oc to 5ghz in the future or if I just get bored and want to so something. I haven't tried past 5ghz so I can't say if I can get it past there stable maybe one day


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Anyone know what Filters are Compatible with an SMA8??? Bottom sides.

DECIMEX FILTERSDECIMEX FILTERS

The Cautious One


----------



## choLOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey there. I don't know if you noticed, but you have a pretty bad kink near your CPU.


----------



## SolarNova

Greetings.

This is my 1st FULL loop. Some very minor modding to the case to get things to fit.


Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!













Check my sig rig for main components.
Only things not listed are the following.

Monsoon Black angled adapters with Blue straight fittings and blue accent disks. White angled adapters for external rad.
Promochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT white tubing 7/16 - 5/8 (16/11mm)
Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O + Mayhems Biocide
2x Bitfenix Spectre Pro Blue Rear external rad
2x Silverstone AP121 blue Front rad push
4x Gentle Typhoon 1850 2 front rad pull, 2 top rad push.
Fans at 700-1200 RPM.
2x blue LED top half
2x white led bottom half
1x blue led in res.
2x CM PSU covers
Silverstone Sound deadening throughout.


----------



## fleetfeather

I'd be happy to do a delidding service in Aus, but my services would not include removing the blank gunk on the PCB.

That stuff is a royal PITA to clean off. Not difficult, just time consuming


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I'd be happy to do a delidding service in Aus, but my services would not include removing the blank gunk on the PCB.
> 
> That stuff is a royal PITA to clean off. Not difficult, just time consuming


No kidding. I think Intel borrowed some of the B 1/2 sealant from the AirForce. Talk about something that takes some serious arm strength and time to remove with a scrapper. I never much cared for having to assist with removing or installing panels because of that stuff.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> No kidding. I think Intel borrowed some of the B 1/2 sealant from the AirForce. Talk about something that takes some serious arm strength and time to remove with a scrapper. I never much cared for having to assist with removing or installing panels because of that stuff.


I've delidded two 4770k's and a 4790k. For the most recent chip, I ended up using a razor blade to clean the gunk off instead. I'd rather gouge and kill the chip than spend 90 minutes scraping away with a plastic credit card edge


----------



## Freaxy

I used a credit card and it was done in no time on my 4790k. It wasn't all that bad actually.
Maybe they changed the silicon on them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

There will be a restructure of the front page of this thread with more relevant information today at some point.

Would some of you go thru the forum and link here any threads of useful content that we can link here,all test threads are welcome if they are long term and other wc related owner clubs are welcome too.

The first post has been neglected for too long......


----------



## jon666

I somehow didn't make it on the list. *cough*
Not that it matters but it would be nice. I have also tied a fan between my two GPU's since I am using universal blocks. Seems to be working pretty good.


----------



## lowfat

http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101


----------



## Chopper1591

Hmmm.

Looks like I have a little problem here
My XTC 140 radiator doesn't fit in the roof of my 650D case. At least not with a fan attached to it.

I am about to make the order for the stuff to include my gpu in the loop. Decided to check if the radiator would fit, sadly not.
Problem is there is already a 360 on top of the case with a rad stand, so putting the fan of the 140 external is a no go.

Any ideas on how to do this?
Would really prefer to have the rad inside the case.

I can mod the top a bit but I don't know what to do.
Sadly I removed the mesh on the top of the case a while back when I was using an h100. So I cant move the 140 rad a bit, there is nothing to secure it to now.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Outside OCN links are allowed @B negative? If so, martinliquidlab even if outdated is a really good source of information touching on many subjects that often pop up here in form of new users questions.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/

By the same token Stren reviews and Bundymania rad thread are also good source of info. Let me grab those links:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493339/the-radiator-volume-thread

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club

http://www.xtremerigs.net/categories/reviews/


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> Hey there. I don't know if you noticed, but you have a pretty bad kink near your CPU.


Actually only takes a hose to put the spring.

The loop doesn't drain.
When removing the radiator out sideways, stay hanged that hose.

This is how you have to actually see:


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Actually only takes a hose to put the spring.
> 
> The loop doesn't drain.
> When removing the radiator out sideways, stay hanged that hose.
> 
> This is how you have to actually see:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If i knew such amazing looking clamps + barbs exist i would have never went Compression.


----------



## fleetfeather

Yep I agree. I think for my next build, I'll be going with some sort of sexy clamps instead of comps


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> If i knew such amazing looking clamps + barbs exist i would have never went Compression.


Originally I'd the loop with Koolance tubing and compression fittings.



The issue is that these Koolance compression fittings just grab the Koolance tubing well.

The Durelene tubing with Koolance compression fittings get out.

Therefore, and not to spend money because here in Argentina isn't cheap, I sent hose clamps.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks

I am preparing a diffuse acrylic for the leds. Cut out a 12 mm acrylic tube in half, sand it down and then fix it to the case. While it helped I would like to diffuse a bit more the light. Any suggestions on how to blur even more the acrylic? Here in order from top to bottom original tube, just cut it in half and then sand it down.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Originally I'd the loop with Koolance tubing and compression fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> The issue is that these Koolance compression fittings just grab the Koolance tubing well.
> 
> The Durelene tubing with Koolance compression fittings get out.
> 
> Therefore, and not to spend money because here in Argentina isn't cheap, I sent hose clamps.


i've same fittings and they are fine with primochill tubing


----------



## Ceadderman

If you snag the light further diffused then I would get some white acrylic tubing if hazed clear doesn't cut it.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

. . .  Trying out the look of leds in the pump too and cpu block. Pastel doesn't work well with this. Will try x1 dark blue


----------



## electro2u

Wanted to update on *Aquatuning* Paypal dispute over unopened return of 2 XCS AC Backplates for 290x/295x2

Paypal credited me back the original cost of the items, which included the charge for shipping to me. I paid, of course, the expense for return shipping.
Never heard back from Aquatuning after the dispute was filed. The last communication I received from them states that my item will be returned to me or destroyed:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Dear [redacted]

The German customs send us that they received a parcel from you.
They do not forward the parcel to us, because there are missing some papers and further information about the content of the delivery.
They will return or exterminate you return.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Tisztelettel / Regards / सादर / 敬具 / تفضلوا بقبول فائق الاحترام

Andreas Walter
(Sales development)
Aquatuning GmbH
Beckheide 13
D-33689 Bielefeld (Dalbke)



Here you can see the tracking, if for some reason you are interested:
USPS Tracking
It clearly states: Customs clearance processing complete

I want to sum up this experience. Aquatuning.us is still a German entity and you will have to return any products ordered from this retailer to Germany. Why they told me it was okay to return my unopened backplates (included replacement waterblock terminals turned out to be too large to use in my build, the heatpipe adds about twice the height to the port terminals) and then refused to pay the German import fee, I do not know. I stated on my customs forms that it was a return merchandise authorization, so I'm not sure why German customs wanted an import fee, but it's not my problem. I even offered to pay for the import fee, as I wished to order the regular backplates instead and had requested my return refund be used for that purpose. No response from Aquatuning whatsoever. There must be a language barrier going on.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Wanted to update on *Aquatuning* Paypal dispute over unopened return of 2 XCS AC Backplates for 290x/295x2
> 
> Paypal credited me back the original cost of the items, which included the charge for shipping to me. I paid, of course, the expense for return shipping.
> Never heard back from Aquatuning after the dispute was filed. The last communication I received from them states that my item will be returned to me or destroyed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Dear [redacted]
> 
> The German customs send us that they received a parcel from you.
> They do not forward the parcel to us, because there are missing some papers and further information about the content of the delivery.
> They will return or exterminate you return.
> 
> Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Tisztelettel / Regards / सादर / 敬具 / تفضلوا بقبول فائق الاحترام
> 
> Andreas Walter
> (Sales development)
> Aquatuning GmbH
> Beckheide 13
> D-33689 Bielefeld (Dalbke)
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the tracking, if for some reason you are interested:
> USPS Tracking
> It clearly states: Customs clearance processing complete
> 
> I want to sum up this experience. Aquatuning.us is still a German entity and you will have to return any products ordered from this retailer to Germany. Why they told me it was okay to return my unopened backplates (included replacement waterblock terminals turned out to be too large to use in my build, the heatpipe adds about twice the height to the port terminals) and then refused to pay the German import fee, I do not know. I stated on my customs forms that it was a return merchandise authorization, so I'm not sure why German customs wanted an import fee, but it's not my problem. I even offered to pay for the import fee, as I wished to order the regular backplates instead and had requested my return refund be used for that purpose. No response from Aquatuning whatsoever. There must be a language barrier going on.


This is very interesting, I've only ordered from them a couple of times and only for small things like fans etc. But this makes me hesitant to order much else from them.


----------



## choLOL

So I've been reading on plasticizer issues and relatively issue-free acrylic tubing, and I have a couple of questions. Can acrylic tubing break when attaching fittings? Does it take much force to insert the fittings/tube, or is it just like soft tubing?









edit: sorry, not comp fittings, Multi-link EK HD fittings are the only widely available fittings here for now.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> So I've been reading on plasticizer issues and relatively issue-free acrylic tubing, and I have a couple of questions. Can acrylic tubing break when attaching compression fittings? Does it take much force to insert the fittings/tube, or is it just like soft tubing?


you don't use compression on acrylic. you have fittings with o-rings and you slide in the acrylic into the fitting. Recently some variants of fittings appeared that have a cap so you screw in and out to ease the process but still is not the same system as soft tubing since there is no compression. Here are some variants:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22415/ex-tub-2510/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBEML.html?tl=g30c703s2056

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21242/ex-tub-2000/EK_12mm_OD_Solid_Tube_Fitting_-_Male_-_Black_EK-HD_Adapter_1012mm_-_Black.html?tl=g30c703s2056

the image for the ek fitting is informative since you can clearly see the two o-rings inside. You press the tube in past those two orings to seal.


----------



## choLOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you don't use compression on acrylic. you have fittings with o-rings and you slide in the acrylic into the fitting. Recently some variants of fittings appeared that have a cap so you screw in and out to ease the process but still is not the same system as soft tubing since there is no compression. Here are some variants:
> ~snip~


Yeah, I accidentally wrote compression.







Thank you for the links and information.

Are the acrylic tubes easy to break when attaching fittings?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> Yeah, I accidentally wrote compression.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the links.
> 
> Are the acrylic tubes easy to break when attaching fittings?


No, not at all. I only had one tube breaking on me and was due to a poor bending on it which weaken the structure and also due to my not so gentle force on it close to the bend point







Usually you just wet the orings with water to help slide the tube in and that's it. You need to debur and perhaps sand it down a bit on rim of the tube in order not to bite on the oring. So, short answer is no, is not easy to break the tube while working with it.


----------



## choLOL

Alright. I'm convinced.







I'll get on it when uni gives me some slacking time. Thanks! +rep


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you don't use compression on acrylic. you have fittings with o-rings and you slide in the acrylic into the fitting. Recently some variants of fittings appeared that have a cap so you screw in and out to ease the process but still is not the same system as soft tubing since there is no compression. [...]


You can't use compression fittings made for flexible tubing on acrylic, but several companies sell compression fittings for rigid tubing. For example, Primochill Ghost and Monsoon Economy Hardline. I've used the Primochill fittings on a couple loops now. There's really no chance of breaking the tubing just from tightening down the compression fitting.


----------



## electro2u

Disassembling Aquacomputer Gpu blocks is like pulling teeth. Need a 9/32 hex socket and a metric L wrench set...

Edit: and then once youve removed the 30 screws... you still have to whack the acrylic with something to get it loose lol


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks
> 
> I am preparing a diffuse acrylic for the leds. Cut out a 12 mm acrylic tube in half, sand it down and then fix it to the case. While it helped I would like to diffuse a bit more the light. Any suggestions on how to blur even more the acrylic? Here in order from top to bottom original tube, just cut it in half and then sand it down.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


my thought - and i have not attempted what you are currently working on - is to sand the interior of the pipe, and leave the exterior finely polished. acrylic tubing almost always looks better when the exterior of the pipe has been polished to a fine glass finish, and it will accomplish the same effect of illuminating the liquid.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You can't use compression fittings made for flexible tubing on acrylic, but several companies sell compression fittings for rigid tubing. For example, Primochill Ghost and Monsoon Economy Hardline. I've used the Primochill fittings on a couple loops now. There's really no chance of breaking the tubing just from tightening down the compression fitting.


Ah, thanks Uni. You live you learn. Does it leave a mark on the acrylic after you use. I mean after screw the cap in and use for a while if you take the cap off there is any mark left on the tube?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> my thought - and i have not attempted what you are currently working on - is to sand the interior of the pipe, and leave the exterior finely polished. acrylic tubing almost always looks better when the exterior of the pipe has been polished to a fine glass finish, and it will accomplish the same effect of illuminating the liquid.


Thanks mate but is not going to be liquid on it. I am just trying to do a homemade diffuser like this:

http://www.led-supplies.com/corner-aluminium-extrusion-for-led-strip-tape

so the idea is to diffuse the led light.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thanks mate but is not going to be liquid on it. I am just trying to do a homemade diffuser like this:
> 
> http://www.led-supplies.com/corner-aluminium-extrusion-for-led-strip-tape
> 
> so the idea is to diffuse the led light.


my bad, i thought you were planning on using an LED plug


----------



## sinnedone

You know, I always wondered why mouth Wash felt so cold in your mouth, now I know why.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> You know, I always wondered why mouth Wash felt so cold in your mouth, now I know why.










It looks about right; That would keep your loop shining don´t you think?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> my bad, i thought you were planning on using an LED plug


Not at all mate, no problem and thank you for trying to help


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks about right; That would keep your loop shining don´t you think?


At the very least I won't have to worry about plaque build up or my components developing a bad case of gingivitis.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> You know, I always wondered why mouth Wash felt so cold in your mouth, now I know why.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> At the very least I won't have to worry about plaque build up or my components developing a bad case of gingivitis.










*ROFL*


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> You know, I always wondered why mouth Wash felt so cold in your mouth, now I know why.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Okay I've got a question about Mayhem's Die's, I know that the Aurora etc. isn't for everyday use but the plain UV reactive die's that you add to distilled water if you use them are they fine for everyday use? If used how often do you need to drain and flush the system?

*LINK* or *LINK* to the exact die I'm looking at!

Thanks in advance for the help and info


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> You know, I always wondered why mouth Wash felt so cold in your mouth, now I know why.


Just don't get the bottles mixed up and you accidentally use Mayhems as mouth wash lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay I've got a question about Mayhem's Die's, I know that the Aurora etc. isn't for everyday use but the plain UV reactive die's that you add to distilled water if you use them are they fine for everyday use? If used how often do you need to drain and flush the system?
> 
> *LINK* or *LINK* to the exact die I'm looking at!
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help and info


I'm using their Orange dye in my loop and have gone roughly a year without draining with no ill side effects.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Just don't get the bottles mixed up and you accidentally use Mayhems as mouth wash lol
> I'm using their Orange dye in my loop and have gone roughly a year without draining with no ill side effects.


That's awesome news







The build that I'm planning and getting ready to start ordering and putting together will be using a cleat tube res. and most likely green tubing and I don't want the res. to look plain compared to the rest of the loop.

Thanks + Rep


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay I've got a question about Mayhem's Die's, I know that the Aurora etc. isn't for everyday use but the plain UV reactive die's that you add to distilled water if you use them are they fine for everyday use? If used how often do you need to drain and flush the system?
> 
> *LINK* or *LINK* to the exact die I'm looking at!
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help and info


Mayhems states 9-12 months use and together with @morencyam testimony above I think you are at least safe for a year. I used for 9 months without any issue the red dye+pastel, not even staining in the blocks. A little soap/rinse and polish and good as new:





First picture out of the loop, second just a 30 seconds rinse, third a little polish with autosol.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Mayhems states 9-12 months use and together with @morencyam testimony above I think you are at least safe for a year. I used for 9 months without any issue the red dye+pastel, not even staining in the blocks. A little soap/rinse and polish and good as new:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First picture out of the loop, second just a 30 seconds rinse, third a little polish with autosol.


Awesome, it's always good to hear the same thing from multiple people


----------



## electro2u

Ugh. The weird little screws that Aquacomputer uses for the Gpu side of their waterblocks (9/32 hex socket) are horrible. They are hardly tightened at all from the factory and the reason is that they are barely functional. The cap is threaded throughout and the actual screw is very crudely connected to the cap by about a microns worth of SS or whatever they are made out of. The result being that if you tighten them the cap and shaft separate... Never EVER buy an aquacomputer block.


----------



## IGr3yh0unDI

Hello overclock Community,
just wantet to share my new build "Gr3yF0rce" with you:

  
     

 
 


While i got some nice feedback on some other Websites and much very nice feedback on Facebook, i want to hear now what you think









Greetings from Germany
Gr3y


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IGr3yh0unDI*
> 
> Hello overclock Community,
> just wantet to share my new build "Gr3yF0rce" with you:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While i got some nice feedback on some other Websites and much very nice feedback on Facebook, i want to hear now what you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings from Germany
> Gr3y


That's really cool. What case is that. Looks like it could be a heavily modded Corsair Air 540. Or maybe even a homemade case made from scratch.


----------



## IGr3yh0unDI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's really cool. What case is that. Looks like it could be a heavily modded Corsair Air 540. Or maybe even a homemade case made from scratch.


It is a heavily modded Corsair Air 540







dunno if i am allowed to share my worklog from other sides here... but if there is enough feedback i will make a "After"Worklog in this Forum.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's really cool. What case is that. Looks like it could be a heavily modded Corsair Air 540.


I think it is a modded 540, the vents in the back are the same. Looks pretty damn amazing tho.

Welcome to the forum Gr3y.


----------



## IGr3yh0unDI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I think it is a modded 540, the vents in the back are the same. Looks pretty damn amazing tho.
> 
> Welcome to the forum Gr3y.


Thank you Gilles3000







i already postet my old Mod here but nobody payed attention xD thats why i havent been that active since that


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IGr3yh0unDI*
> 
> It is a heavily modded Corsair Air 540
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dunno if i am allowed to share my worklog from other sides here... but if there is enough feedback i will make a "After"Worklog in this Forum.


I know I'd be interested in seeing your work. But like you said, I'm not sure what the rule about posting logs from other sites.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I think it is a modded 540, *the vents in the back are the same*. Looks pretty damn amazing tho.
> 
> Welcome to the forum Gr3y.


That's what made me think Corsair. They've looked eerily similar to the vents on my old 700D


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IGr3yh0unDI*
> 
> I already postet my old Mod here but nobody payed attention xD thats why i havent been that active since that


Just looked back at your previous post, I think the picture quality might have been to blame. The ones you posted now are much better.

People tend to have somewhat high expectations in this thread. Either may, this mod looks great, good job man.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IGr3yh0unDI*
> 
> Hello overclock Community,
> just wantet to share my new build "Gr3yF0rce" with you:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While i got some nice feedback on some other Websites and much very nice feedback on Facebook, i want to hear now what you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings from Germany
> Gr3y


I only have 2 things to say to this:

First -







WOW That's Stunning!

Second - What case is that?


----------



## IGr3yh0unDI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Second - What case is that?


Like said above its an Corsair Air 540


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IGr3yh0unDI*
> 
> Like said above its an Corsair Air 540


Sorry, I was mesmerized by the beauty of the pictures


----------



## emsj86

Very nice job do a build log def mod of the month worthy too me. Specially when you can mod something to the point where people ask and want to know what case it is


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Very nice job do a build log def mod of the month worthy too me. Specially when you can mod something to the point where people ask and want to know what case it is


I would agree with this


----------



## Chopper1591

Good morning guys,

Placed an order for a waterblock for my 290 tri-x yesterday and decided to grab some stuff to make a fill port on my xspc dual bay combo res.
Being the first time I do a fill port I have a question.

Is it okay to completely fill the res?
Like when you would do it without the fill port i would flood.

I am wanting to do this to possibly eliminate the bubbles issue when I put my 655 vario on setting 5.
Because of the small size of the reservoir the pump seems to suck in some air when I put it on full throttle.

If I can't fill it completely what else can I do to try and solve this issue?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Like when you would do it without the fill port i would flood.


This is what I do with my dual bay res (Monsoon).


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> This is what I do with my dual bay res (Monsoon).


So it should be good?

I am thinking about the fact that water expands when it warms up. Doesn't that risk the reservoir to break?
Although the xspc dual bay I have is from nylon and should be pretty tough, compared to the plexi stuff.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> So it should be good?
> 
> I am thinking about the fact that water expands when it warms up. Doesn't that risk the reservoir to break?
> Although the xspc dual bay I have is from nylon and should be pretty tough, compared to the plexi stuff.


Pressure is almost never enough to burst open a loop. But if you are that afraid about it, then get one of the Bitspower Pressure Valves, i.e. *this*.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Pressure is almost never enough to burst open a loop. But if you are that afraid about it, then get one of the Bitspower Pressure Valves, i.e. *this*.


Good share, but I will just settle with it.
Am pretty confident that It won't burst so easily. But to be double sure I wanted to ask some opinions of the more experienced guys here.









I will just do the same as I did the two times I did build my loop:
Fill, pump, fill, pump etc..
Till it is rather full. Then bleed and fill again.
Let it run for a while and then cap the fill port of so there is a slight vacuum.

It's not even that I wanted a fill port to make filling easier. Main reason was really the air issue of the pump.
I am pretty sure filling the res completely will solve that.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> So it should be good?
> 
> I am thinking about the fact that water expands when it warms up. Doesn't that risk the reservoir to break?
> Although the xspc dual bay I have is from nylon and should be pretty tough, compared to the plexi stuff.


It's no different then sealing your loop with a different mixture of more air and less coolant. The air expands too =)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you don't use compression on acrylic. you have fittings with o-rings and you slide in the acrylic into the fitting. Recently some variants of fittings appeared that have a cap so you screw in and out to ease the process but still is not the same system as soft tubing since there is no compression. [...]
> 
> 
> 
> You can't use compression fittings made for flexible tubing on acrylic, but several companies sell compression fittings for rigid tubing. For example, Primochill Ghost and Monsoon Economy Hardline. I've used the Primochill fittings on a couple loops now. There's really no chance of breaking the tubing just from tightening down the compression fitting.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ah, thanks Uni. You live you learn. Does it leave a mark on the acrylic after you use. I mean after screw the cap in and use for a while if you take the cap off there is any mark left on the tube?
Click to expand...

Well, I've only had one of my acrylic loops apart once so far, and it had been running for 2-3 months at the time, but I didn't notice anything like that. Not really sure what you mean by a 'mark' though. The tubes certainly weren't warped/deformed from the compression fittings, and from what I've seen acrylic isn't really prone to staining.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's no different then sealing your loop with a different mixture of more air and less coolant. The air expands too =)


Hmm.
Hadn't thought about that.
But you are right.

Still I think water has more force when expanding. Can't recall my physics class.








Now that we are on the subject I thought about the movie "the score" where they cracked a safe by using water.

Here's the mythbuster version of it.












Although we are not using explosives in our reservoirs, but the idea is still the same. Haha


----------



## electro2u

Interestingly, if I remember my thermodynamics correctly, when you reduce the volume of a space with a substance like water or air the pressure will either rise or the temperature will. The water expansion will displace some of the air in an open loop (there will always be air somewhere in your loop, or a few places) and compress it in a closed system, so indeed the pressure and temp of the air in the loop will change, but our tubing and components can withstand a lot more pressure than the change an acceptable delta T will cause.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Finally got my wc graphics card. The second one will be here thursday cant wait to add it in. Now I just want to try the acrylic tubing.


----------



## Razroid

Hey guys, first time watercooler here









So, after one whole year of planning, saving monies and bending tubes, I am down to the last tube from my R3E to my EK Supreme HF.

After breaking 3 tubes, I am almost convinced that I cannot do a 3 point bend in that small area. The other alternative is to do a diagonal run from the mobo block to the cpu block but imho, looks terrible among all of my other parallel bends









Any advice on how I should tackle this last tube?



This is the closes I have gotten for that bend but it is of the wrong length and angle











Thanks


----------



## mus1mus

Not enough Heat maybe.


----------



## snef

im working on a new build now but i have one issue

i cant say more abouyt it

more info on February 1st

for now a teaser


----------



## Razroid

Any longer on the heatgun the tubing will have bubbles :/


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im working on a new build now but i have one issue
> 
> i cant say more about it
> 
> more info on February 1st
> 
> for now, a teaser
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wild guess, EKWB Vulture?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Hey guys, first time watercooler here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, after one whole year of planning, saving monies and bending tubes, I am down to the last tube from my R3E to my EK Supreme HF.
> 
> After breaking 3 tubes, I am almost convinced that I cannot do a 3 point bend in that small area. The other alternative is to do a diagonal run from the mobo block to the cpu block but imho, looks terrible among all of my other parallel bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice on how I should tackle this last tube?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the closes I have gotten for that bend but it is of the wrong length and angle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


It's just going to take practice and repeat attempts to get it right. Triple bends are hard, and even harder still when they are close together. Even with considerable experience a triple bend usually requires several attempts and scrap wasted, or at least it sure does in my case.

If you don't have enough tubing left for that them you are in a bit of a pickle. You could make it easier on yourself and add a 90 degree angle fitting to one of the ports so it's just a double bend needed or a 90 on both ports so only a single bend. Sometimes that's the only way to make it work.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Hey guys, first time watercooler here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, after one whole year of planning, saving monies and bending tubes, I am down to the last tube from my R3E to my EK Supreme HF.
> 
> After breaking 3 tubes, I am almost convinced that I cannot do a 3 point bend in that small area. The other alternative is to do a diagonal run from the mobo block to the cpu block but imho, looks terrible among all of my other parallel bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice on how I should tackle this last tube?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the closes I have gotten for that bend but it is of the wrong length and angle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Put a 90 on the cpu block and a 90 on the other end and you will be down to one 90 bend on the acrylic all at the same level. will look good and the 90 will be almost concealed.

edit -







by uni


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's just going to take practice and repeat attempts to get it right. Triple bends are hard, and even harder still when they are close together. Even with considerable experience a triple bend usually requires several attempts and scrap wasted, or at least it sure does in my case.
> 
> If you don't have enough tubing left for that them you are in a bit of a pickle. You could make it easier on yourself and add a 90 degree angle fitting to one of the ports so it's just a double bend needed or a 90 on both ports so only a single bend. Sometimes that's the only way to make it work.


Is there a minimum bend radius with acrylic bending?


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's just going to take practice and repeat attempts to get it right. Triple bends are hard, and even harder still when they are close together. Even with considerable experience a triple bend usually requires several attempts and scrap wasted, or at least it sure does in my case.
> 
> If you don't have enough tubing left for that them you are in a bit of a pickle. You could make it easier on yourself and add a 90 degree angle fitting to one of the ports so it's just a double bend needed or a 90 on both ports so only a single bend. Sometimes that's the only way to make it work.


I'm seriously considering just doing a diagonal run now, getting sick of intel HD3000 crashing every 3 seconds on my crappy laptop. :/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Put a 90 on the cpu block and a 90 on the other end and you will be down to one 90 bend on the acrylic all at the same level. will look good and the 90 will be almost concealed.
> 
> edit -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by uni


would it be on the same level? the mobo block seems to be of a lower level than the cpu block.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I plan on practicing my bends this week so I can get Franken back up and running to build the desk









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im working on a new build now but i have one issue
> 
> i cant say more about it
> 
> more info on February 1st
> 
> for now, a teaser
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good choice on the GPU







love mine and the backplate is solid, I plan on painting mine soon







maybe blue and white lol I kid


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Hey guys, first time watercooler here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, after one whole year of planning, saving monies and bending tubes, I am down to the last tube from my R3E to my EK Supreme HF.
> 
> After breaking 3 tubes, I am almost convinced that I cannot do a 3 point bend in that small area. The other alternative is to do a diagonal run from the mobo block to the cpu block but imho, looks terrible among all of my other parallel bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice on how I should tackle this last tube?
> 
> 
> 
> This is the closes I have gotten for that bend but it is of the wrong length and angle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Just giving this question a bump. He posted his own thread and figured I d steer him this way after not getting much feed back, since you guys helped me out a lot figure you could help him. I suggested another 90 off the top rad but I don't know of he can do that. Any ideas Edited; I see people our on the case allready sorry


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im working on a new build now but i have one issue
> 
> i cant say more about it
> 
> more info on February 1st
> 
> for now, a teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Please, . . . . . something that's not so sterile, hospital operating room white looking, for a change . . . .

You're aware that there are some ongoing memory issues with the 970s when used for other than gaming . . .

Might want to do some homework on that first.

Looking for a new direction,

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I'm seriously considering just doing a diagonal run now, getting sick of intel HD3000 crashing every 3 seconds on my crappy laptop. :/
> would it be on the same level? the mobo block seems to be of a lower level than the cpu block.


You can always use something like this to level:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10371/ex-tub-618/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C40.html?tl=g30c101s1354

Take a measure of the difference in height and find the piece that suits your need.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Please, . . . . . something that's not so sterile, hospital operating room white looking, for a change . . . .
> 
> You're aware that there are some ongoing memory issues with the 970s when used for other than gaming . . .
> 
> Might want to do some homework on that first.
> 
> Looking for a new direction,
> 
> Darlene


if you don't like what im doing or did , just don't watch at my build log

I don't like what your doing and I never wrote in your build logs or any thread, "please...something that's not so sterile like white tanning bed"
because most of your build are white

I never think I will do build who everyone will like, but I do not pretend to tell them how to do their build

just change direction if you want, I will do mine like I want, what ever if its Hospital like or not


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I'm seriously considering just doing a diagonal run now.


Don't do it! I had the same idea, although my bends weren't quite as tight and it's a different board. That diagonal is sitting in on my bench because it looked terrible. I would have to agree with the rest, the 90's would look much better but at the same time I sorta wish you would keep trying till you got it right, or at least close. It would look much better.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im working on a new build now but i have one issue
> 
> i cant say more about it
> 
> more info on February 1st
> 
> for now, a teaser


Wild guess: is it red and black themed?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Please, . . . . . something that's not so sterile, hospital operating room white looking, for a change . . . .
> 
> You're aware that there are some ongoing memory issues with the 970s when used for other than gaming . . .
> 
> Might want to do some homework on that first.
> 
> Looking for a new direction,
> 
> Darlene


interesting, have had no issues w/ folding my 970 nor using it for photo editing but my Strix 970 came w/ Samsung memory, but I have seen rampant issues in the 970 owners thread.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Please, . . . . . something that's not so sterile, hospital operating room white looking, for a change . . . .
> 
> You're aware that there are some ongoing memory issues with the 970s when used for other than gaming . . .
> 
> Might want to do some homework on that first.
> 
> Looking for a new direction,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> if you don't like what im doing or did , just don't watch at my build log
> 
> I don't like what your doing and I never wrote in your build logs or any thread, "please...something that's not so sterile like white tanning bed"
> because most of your build are white
> 
> I never think I will do build who everyone will like, but I do not pretend to tell them how to do their build
> 
> just change direction if you want, I will do mine like I like , what ever if its Hospital like or not
Click to expand...

Well, . .

Obviously my post came across much more offensively than was ever intended. Sorry 'bout that.

You're quite free to rag on my builds in my buildlogs if you so choose, I'm a big girl and can take it . . .

Even better if it's a valid rag and helps me do better next time or makes me aware that maybe I've played out the variations on a theme meme.

You have exceptional skills and your technical execution is awesome, would just be nice to see it driven more by outside the box imagination.

Darlene


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Well, . .
> 
> Obviously my post came across much more offensively than was ever intended. Sorry 'bout that.
> 
> You're quite free to rag on my builds in my buildlogs if you so choose, I'm a big girl and can take it . . .
> 
> Even better if it's a valid rag and helps me do better next time or makes me aware that maybe I've played out the variations on a them meme.
> 
> You have exceptional skills and your technical execution is awesome, would just be nice to see it driven more by outside the box imagination.
> 
> Darlene











believe me, this one will be different


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> believe me, this one will be different


Watch out guys, he's going to go.... red hot, retina burning neon pink, or for geek brownie points... Plaid! How one does plaid coolant nobody knows, but....









...Sorry, couldn't resist. ^_^


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Well, . .
> 
> Obviously my post came across much more offensively than was ever intended. Sorry 'bout that.
> 
> You're quite free to rag on my builds in my buildlogs if you so choose, I'm a big girl and can take it . . .
> 
> Even better if it's a valid rag and helps me do better next time or makes me aware that maybe I've played out the variations on a theme meme.
> 
> You have exceptional skills and your technical execution is awesome, would just be nice to see it driven more by outside the box imagination.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> believe me, this one will be different
Click to expand...

Genuinely looking forward to seeing it come together.

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> interesting, have had no issues w/ folding my 970 nor using it for photo editing but my Strix 970 came w/ Samsung memory, but I have seen rampant issues in the 970 owners thread.


It does seem possible that different memory modules are relating differently to the strange scheme set up for the 970s.

@Snef I would take it as a compliment to have Darlene comment on your build style in that way. It is the same type of good-natured criticism we've seen from other heavy hitters around here about your work. Both the British and Americans tend to comment critically on peoples' crafts when they are genuinely interested in the work. I think the straight forward bluntness is more about pushing new boundaries and learning than it is about being mean. You guys are the best at what you do and in Academia similarly the published papers are often ripped to shreds by other professors and researchers not so much out of disrespect but out of regard for the subject matter. You don't have anything to prove or be defensive about. Just let yourself enjoy being talked about. Good or bad publicity is still you being famous.


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> spolier if you don't like what im doing or did , just don't watch at my build log
> 
> I don't like what your doing and I never wrote in your build logs or any thread, "please...something that's not so sterile like white tanning bed"
> because most of your build are white
> 
> I never think I will do build who everyone will like, but I do not pretend to tell them how to do their build
> 
> just change direction if you want, I will do mine like I want, what ever if its Hospital like or not


I for one really like the all white sterile look ..lol









By the way how do you get Cold Zero to do anything for you, I have been trying to get him to do some back plates for me, but he has been playing hard to get...







.. all kidding aside, I think they are ordering a new CNC machine, or at least that's what I heard?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I vote for Safety orange as part of the color scheme, lol


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I for one really like the all white sterile look ..lol


Agreed


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I for one really like the all white sterile look ..lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way how do you get Cold Zero to do anything for you, I have been trying to get him to do some back plates for me, but he has been playing hard to get...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. all kidding aside, I think they are ordering a new CNC machine, or at least that's what I heard?


you can connect him from facebook coldzero group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/473276630057/


----------



## provost

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> you can connect him from facebook coldzero group
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/473276630057/


Thanks. I have been in touch with his sales, but was told that my design was too detailed. sorry, it wasn't the cnc machine, but some specialized printer they were trying to get. They needed the CNC machine for my custom mid plate which they won't have for another few weeks. . But, I [think] I have been able to source it form elsewhere. Actually, from two different people, one for the bottom, and another for the top. I will try to connect with him on Facebook in any event.


----------



## emsj86

I've tried too as well to get a custom 780 backplate and was shot down. I read somewhere his machine was down so I'll try again at another time.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Coldzero has been back up for a while now. He tends to get backed up and when he does will shut down the site until he is caught back up but it's up and running atm. I just got some more custom pieces made from him.

http://www.coldzero.eu/

Now, if your custom design is too complicated for his machine that's another issue altogether. I'd suggest that you simplify it.


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I've tried too as well to get a custom 780 backplate and was shot down. I read somewhere his machine was down so I'll try again at another time.


yeah, sounds like its a combination of them being busy and may be new machine..not sure
I have reached out to our resident Astisan here a few minutes ago Korruptedkaos to see if he can point me in the right direction. Actually, he is one the two people I am sourcing my mid plate from. I hoping that he can help me with the top part of my custom midplate, and he also sounds like a helpful fella.


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Coldzero has been back up for a while now. *He tends to get backed up* and when he does will shut down the site until he is caught back up but it's up and running atm. I just got some more custom pieces made from him.
> 
> http://www.coldzero.eu/


I think you are right. If you don't mind me asking, when you say custom, do you mean that you are providing your own design (logo) for their custom back plate template for the given video card, or are you purchasing the back plate with their design that they have on their website? Thanks.

Edit: sorry, I didn't see your edit. Yeah, its too detailed/complicated for their machine. My problem is that I have very limited (read none...lol) graphic design skills. I guess I have to find some time to get someone to simplify the design.








At this point, I have arrived at the conclusion that I may have to set aside a few hours on a weekend, and learn at least some basic CAD cra..arrg.. worse comes to worse, I will get a referral from an architect whom I know for one of the college kids he uses for drafting work, etc. Looking at some of the builds on bit-tech and here, I am simply in awe of some these modders' skills, truly amazing stuff


----------



## Tunz

I asked for a few custom pieces recently and was told that once his UV printer is back up and running he'll be able to do the more detailed stuff.


----------



## VSG

Snef, Parvum X1 ITX?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Snef, Parvum X1 ITX?


Nope.







Not a Parvum and not a ITX Hex Gear


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I think you are right. If you don't mind me asking, when you say custom, do you mean that you are providing your own design (logo) for their custom back plate template for the given video card, or are you purchasing the back plate with their design that they have on their website? Thanks.


I always just submit oversized jpg image files of a simple design I created and detailed measurements & description of what I want, same as I've done with him several times before. That said, I always go for just a laser etched design on black acrylic, no printed colors or multi-tone/layer acrylic designs, so perhaps there is other machinery involved in what you want that he doesn't have or isn't working atm.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Nope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a Parvum and not a ITX Hex Gear


Ok, I am intrigued now. Even if it's the EK Vulture, we haven't really seen any build in it either. I am looking forward to it!


----------



## choLOL

Sorry if this is a reply to a pretty old topic in the thread
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hmm. Hadn't thought about that. But you are right.
> Still I think water has more force when expanding. Can't recall my physics class.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we are on the subject I thought about the movie "the score" where they cracked a safe by using water.
> Here's the mythbuster version of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although we are not using explosives in our reservoirs, but the idea is still the same. Haha


Hey, so I studied this in my thermodynamics class in uni last semester. We have this thing called the steam table where we would look for the properties of water at different temps and pressures.
About the volume change, water at 4 deg.C is the most dense state of water, and sits at 1 L/kg; while liquid water at 100 deg.C is 1.043 L/kg.
Meaning the volume change due to change in temperature from 4 to 100 deg.C is pretty small, just 43 mL for every 1kg of water used. The volume change will be spread across all your components, so I think the force wouldn't be too much for your acrylic parts as I assume your water doesn't range from 4 to 100 deg.C.









This is if the loop isn't turned on. I noticed that when you turn the loop on, the level in the reservoir rises a bit. Hope this helps.









edit: fixed units


----------



## wermad

Wow, just took a look at the ek, very nice for itx. Too bad I'm planning something bigger (diy!)







.

Any recommendations on a thick (~10-5mm) 480mm rad gasket? Something that can stay put (though removal may be a pita later on).


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any recommendations on a thick (~10-5mm) 480mm rad gasket? Something that can stay put (though removal may be a pita later on).


Weather stripping tape from the hardware store.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Weather stripping tape from the hardware store.


I have some of that lying around I used to quell some wind noise in an old car. To wide though. Ill check out the hardware store, since I'll be making frequent trips for this project







.

Ty


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, just took a look at the ek, very nice for itx. Too bad I'm planning something bigger (diy!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Any recommendations on a thick (~10-5mm) 480mm rad gasket? Something that can stay put (though removal may be a pita later on).


 Baking silicon sheets

http://www.wilton.com/store/site/product.cfm?id=2E13B270-423B-522D-F81DEAD1FC1A965B

custom cut to the rad exactly


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, just took a look at the ek, very nice for itx. Too bad I'm planning something bigger (diy!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Any recommendations on a thick (~10-5mm) 480mm rad gasket? Something that can stay put (though removal may be a pita later on).


Maybe something similar like this here:

Click

Click


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Baking silicon sheets
> 
> http://www.wilton.com/store/site/product.cfm?id=2E13B270-423B-522D-F81DEAD1FC1A965B
> 
> custom cut to the rad exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Maybe something similar like this here:
> 
> Click
> 
> Click
Click to expand...

Thanks guys









I'm still doing a ton of research on this next project and addressing issues as they come up. One of them is that the shroud I want to use leaves a gap if I mount the fans to the rad or the rad clashes w/ the shroud if I attach the fans to the shroud. Once i get these pieces, I'll start looking further into a fix for this.


----------



## Vintage

Really want to do a high performance ITX build for my next build.... keeping an eye on all the awesome upcoming cases!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, just took a look at the ek, very nice for itx. Too bad I'm planning something bigger (diy!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> *Any recommendations on a thick (~10-5mm) 480mm rad gasket? Something that can stay put (though removal may be a pita later on).*


I actually made my own gaskets/shrouds from some 1/2" sheets of soft plastic. I've also made gaskets using scrap 3.5mm rubber sheets. I could easily make some up for you if you'd like. Just shoot me a PM if your interested.

You can see the plastic shroud in place here:


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'd just buy rad gaskets and be done with it. They are cheap, simple to install, and they work really really good. I couldn't be bothered to make my own instead of spend ~$3 or less depending on the size of the rad.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-480mm-radiator-gasket.html


----------



## kongoslim

My updated build went from 2x 240 swiftech rads and 1 120x60mm alpacool rad with a coolermaster/swiftech pump. To a 360x40mm and 120 x60mm alpha cool with a swiftech d5 pump


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was thinking of dropping a 360 in my c70 instead of having dual 240's, just not sure if I should run the Swiftech 240 or my Black Ice GT xflow with it (decisions decisions)


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I was thinking of dropping a 360 in my c70 instead of having dual 240's, just not sure if I should run the Swiftech 240 or my Black Ice GT xflow with it (decisions decisions)


Why not just add a 240 and keep the 360?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'd just buy rad gaskets and be done with it. They are cheap, simple to install, and they work really really good. I couldn't be bothered to make my own instead of spend ~$3 or less depending on the size of the rad.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-480mm-radiator-gasket.html


True, they are cheap, but I enjoy making my own things. Hence the reason I build my desk/case. And the material I used was just scrap pieces from work so they literally cost me nothing to make. And it only took a few hours to make 4 shrouds and 6 120mm gaskets.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks, @4WDBenio brought news to the Aquaero club of this:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255&XTCsid=t20b40t15kpqfo2d5jdda2db0tececcg

That might interest others here since is the first D5 PWM fully following intel specs and accordingly could be controlled by any PWM fan controller.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Why not just add a 240 and keep the 360?


Lol, I'm debating which one to use with the 360. Might just use the 240 xflow since it is thicker than the Swiftech and might chop out part of the 5.25's to make it fit in the front of the case


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Why not just add a 240 and keep the 360?


Oh, lol, sorry. Completely misread your question.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> if you don't like what im doing or did , just don't watch at my build log
> 
> I don't like what your doing and I never wrote in your build logs or any thread, "please...something that's not so sterile like white tanning bed"
> because most of your build are white
> 
> I never think I will do build who everyone will like, but I do not pretend to tell them how to do their build
> 
> just change direction if you want, I will do mine like I want, what ever if its Hospital like or not


I have no idea why you get so much flack your builds are immaculate. I look forward to your next endeavor.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im working on a new build now but i have one issue
> 
> i cant say more about it
> 
> more info on February 1st
> 
> for now, a teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Where is the watercoolings?

And you can just say its the EK case,its no secret,Darth Beavis has already posted on FB a while a go about his.
Mine is sitting in DPD's warehouse...the lazy gits that they are....


----------



## snef

I didn't say anything because someone ask me to keep it under NDA until February 1st
I respect that that's it, if you or surroz want to talk about it before, its your business
I have a big respect for him and I will post my build logs on the right date

and your right, its not Watercooling related I will remove it right now

but................

this one have watercooling?
or maybe i mist something?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im such a legend...I finally get to grips my camera,just taking pics for Custom PC......and I boot my light stand over smashing one of the bulbs....Classic B NEG right there.
> 
> After some f stop adjustments and a change of AI AF,the photo's are getting better....no WC but there are enough photo types here to make it worth doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the background tone as a basis was probably the best thing to do to any photo,thanks for that James.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I didn't say anything because someone ask me to keep it under NDA until February 1st
> I respect that that's it, if you or surroz want to talk about it before, its your business
> I have a big respect for him and I will post my build logs on the right date
> 
> and your right, its not Watercooling related I will remove it right now
> 
> but................
> 
> this one have watercooling?
> or maybe i mist something?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im such a legend...I finally get to grips my camera,just taking pics for Custom PC......and I boot my light stand over smashing one of the bulbs....Classic B NEG right there.
> 
> After some f stop adjustments and a change of AI AF,the photo's are getting better....no WC but there are enough photo types here to make it worth doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the background tone as a basis was probably the best thing to do to any photo,thanks for that James.
Click to expand...











Yeah...I have been busted....










in my defense,I was looking for photo critique......
Dont remove the pics,they are good.

As for the case,i was told talk is fine,pictures no bueno.
Glad to know you have one,looking forward to what you do with it.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah...I have been busted....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in my defense,I was looking for photo critique......
> Dont remove the pics,they are good.
> 
> As for the case,i was told talk is fine,pictures no bueno.
> Glad to know you have one,looking forward to what you do with it.


your photo are really great now, its night and day from before









ahhh never ask, they ask me to wait for build logs

anyway, now everyone know hahahaha

yep an EK Vulture but special edition (I will mod it)


----------



## fleetfeather

What's the size of those EK cases? I remember the news thread about them, and my first impression was "360 rad in the front? Must be huge..."


----------



## catbuster

Dat EK case will be another "SFF" mammoth







still waiting for snef build


----------



## guitarhero23

I'm planning on doing a white build come the end of the year, might call it "Surgical _______" or something like that now haha.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah...I have been busted....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in my defense,I was looking for photo critique......
> Dont remove the pics,they are good.
> 
> As for the case,i was told talk is fine,pictures no bueno.
> Glad to know you have one,looking forward to what you do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> your photo are really great now, its night and day from before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ahhh never ask, they ask me to wait for build logs
> 
> anyway, now everyone know hahahaha
> 
> yep an EK Vulture but special edition (*I will mod it*)
Click to expand...

An interesting development,I await your efforts with interest


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yep an EK Vulture but special edition (I will mod it)


Another wild guess, white paint?


----------



## Agenesis

Are there any really low profile d5 res/top combos? Height is not really an issue but it's quite restricted width wise. The smaller the better. I have the xspc d5 tank currently and it's still too big.

Something small like this ddc top:
http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/large/ex-pmp-92.jpg

I've had really bad luck with the 35x before so I don't want to go that route if it's avoidable.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Another wild guess, white paint?


you know, Snef is Snef,























for sure white paint is in the to do list but a really special paint job


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> you know, Snef is Snef,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for sure white paint is in the to do list but a really special paint job


Looking forward to it, can't wait to see the vulture with a build in it too. Its a very interesting case imo.


----------



## dallas1990

EK is making a case?


----------



## electro2u

Did already. Not released to public yet. Probably was already in the pipeline but that was my suggestion for new products when they ran the contest few months back.


----------



## Bluemustang

Finally got all my WC parts and after a month of research 1 thing slipped my mind; I may need an extension for one of the 90 degree fittings on the bottom rad.

Question: Does it matter what port the intake or outlet is in on alphacool ut60 and xt45 rads? (as long as intake is 1 of the 3 on the 1 half and outlet 1 of the 3 on the other half). Especially for the bottom rad in my 900d.


----------



## Ragsters

I don't remember reading if the motherboard layout of the new Vulture case had a reversed motherboard tray or not. Also, if it came in other colors?


----------



## slippyturtle

It's been a long time coming but I've finally finished my S8. Learned a ton from this club and OCN in general.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## catbuster

Monster on your desk







nice green


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Finally got all my WC parts and after a month of research 1 thing slipped my mind; I may need an extension for one of the 90 degree fittings on the bottom rad.
> 
> Question: Does it matter what port the intake or outlet is in on alphacool ut60 and xt45 rads? (as long as intake is 1 of the 3 on the 1 half and outlet 1 of the 3 on the other half). Especially for the bottom rad in my 900d.


You can't use the single port on the bottom as an inlet or outlet, it's specifically a drain. The end with multiple ports needs to have inlet on one endtank and outlet on the other end tank. Doesn't matter which tank you use for inlet outlet.


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> It's been a long time coming but I've finally finished my S8. Learned a ton from this club and OCN in general.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm jealous lol I would love to get a caselabs case. Very nice color scheme and good job on the acrylic pipe.


----------



## ekolog66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> It's been a long time coming but I've finally finished my S8. Learned a ton from this club and OCN in general.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


top cover 31mm ???


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> It's been a long time coming but I've finally finished my S8. Learned a ton from this club and OCN in general.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very Very nice, but my S8 hasn't even arrived and someone stole my color scheme








All kidding aside very beautiful build


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekolog66*
> 
> top cover 31mm ???


Since I ordered the extended top cover for mine, it's a 36mm extended cover


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Very Very nice, but my S8 hasn't even arrived and someone stole my color scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All kidding aside very beautiful build


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> It's been a long time coming but I've finally finished my S8. Learned a ton from this club and OCN in general.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very very well done! I especially like your front access drain port







.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> It's been a long time coming but I've finally finished my S8. Learned a ton from this club and OCN in general.
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2334826/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Neat mate. Well done


----------



## Agenesis

Is this really a copper or brass radiator? All of my other radiators are either too dark or too recessed to look into but I can see the chambers inside this new radiator and it looks like raw aluminum to me. I'm a bit concerned that it might start corroding if I put it into my loop.





http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/phobya-xtreme-quad-480-4-x-120mm-radiator.html


----------



## morencyam

Looks right too me. That's pretty much what the inside of both my rads looked like. It's just not polished brass and it looks to have some oxidation on it, but that's normal


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Is this really a copper or brass radiator? All of my other radiators are either too dark or too recessed to look into but I can see the chambers inside this new radiator and it looks like raw aluminum to me. I'm a bit concerned that it might start corroding if I put it into my loop.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/phobya-xtreme-quad-480-4-x-120mm-radiator.html


It looks like copper/brass to me too with some oxidation; Give it a good clean with hot water and shake method.


----------



## Alex132

Yeah, looks totally normal lol


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Don't do it! I had the same idea, although my bends weren't quite as tight and it's a different board. That diagonal is sitting in on my bench because it looked terrible. I would have to agree with the rest, the 90's would look much better but at the same time I sorta wish you would keep trying till you got it right, or at least close. It would look much better.


I don't really feel like ordering more watercooling parts :/

you guys have any suggestions on how I can measure how much and where to bend?
all my bends up to this point were all by hand and eye :/


----------



## Nichismo

got some new parts and made some changes last night on my reconstructing...

really excited for these new dual DDC pump reservoir combos from Bitspower... they look and feel amazing, and should perform similarly too














Also, thanks to JamesW tremendously inspiring MOTM Robocop build, I re configured my motherboard tubing in the awesomest possible way...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> got some new parts and made some changes last night on my reconstructing...
> 
> really excited for these new dual DDC pump reservoir combos from Bitspower... they look and feel amazing, and should perform similarly too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, thanks to JamesW tremendously inspiring MOTM Robocop build, I re configured my motherboard tubing in the awesomest possible way...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All I can say after looking at those pics is WoW









+Rep


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I don't really feel like ordering more watercooling parts :/
> 
> you guys have any suggestions on how I can measure how much and where to bend?
> all my bends up to this point were all by hand and eye :/


I used the Monsoon measuring kit, which on most of my bends was a godsend http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22338/too-135/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Measuring_Kit_-_Universal.html?tl=g30c633s2087

Not sure if you will find something like that anywhere else. I think it's available, but I don't know where to direct you to find it.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> All I can say after looking at those pics is WoW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep


Thanks









I did pretty much copy someone entirely though xD


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did pretty much copy someone entirely though xD


Yeah, it looks like Singularity's work. Very nice though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> got some new parts and made some changes last night on my reconstructing...
> 
> really excited for these new dual DDC pump reservoir combos from Bitspower... they look and feel amazing, and should perform similarly too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, thanks to JamesW tremendously inspiring MOTM Robocop build, I re configured my motherboard tubing in the awesomest possible way...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now thats tidy.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yeah, it looks like Singularity's work. Very nice though.


Lol funny you should mention, its actually JamesWalters Robocop, it was a mod of the month winner here.

Weird though because I absolutely love Singularity, I watch Daniels videos like they are my core....

Here is my build before this current teardown.... Having a few people ask me if Sngularity built it for me was a huuuge compliment











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now thats tidy.


it was a little hard on my fingertips.... lol

having to gnaw at the rotarys in order to get them to tighten all the way... Since I was using c47s I wanted to assemble all the routing and then simple attach the entire piece to the blocks in that manner.

This rebuild im doing is going to be pretty much the same thing as that setup, aside from the motherboard tubing and the additional pumps. Im also probably going to exchange the 90 degree fittings with the 16mm tubing to the rotary, rounded versions. I may also use different coolant colors, most likely actually considering the trouble I went through to disassemble each block and thoroughly clean them.


----------



## Bluemustang

Guys i just opened up my ek supremacy evo to install and its supposed to have 4 washers but there was only 2 in the bag (and 3 more in 3 of the 4 thumb screws).

Am i missing 3 or do i have 1 extra and there arent supposed to be any inside the thumb screws and they just ended up inside there from being in the bag together? (by inside the thumb screws i mean the thumb screws that the springs go into)


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Now thats tidy.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Guys i just opened up my ek supremacy evo to install and its supposed to have 4 washers but there was only 2 in the bag (and 3 more in 3 of the 4 thumb screws).
> 
> Am i missing 3 or do i have 1 extra and there arent supposed to be any inside the thumb screws and they just ended up inside there from being in the bag together? (by inside the thumb screws i mean the thumb screws that the springs go into)


Which part do the washers go under again?

I assume your using LGA115x ?


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> I used the Monsoon measuring kit, which on most of my bends was a godsend http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22338/too-135/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Measuring_Kit_-_Universal.html?tl=g30c633s2087
> 
> Not sure if you will find something like that anywhere else. I think it's available, but I don't know where to direct you to find it.


Uhh.. 15 bucks for one last tubing bend?









Maybe I'll opt for the extenders and 90d adapters in this case :/


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Uhh.. 15 bucks for one last tubing bend?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll opt for the extenders and 90d adapters in this case :/


I would just get a cheap spirit level... thats how I always have done my lines and its worked like a charm.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I would just get a cheap spirit level... thats how I always have done my lines and its worked like a charm.


How do spirit levels help here, don't they just help you with making the tubing parallel to the ground?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Which part do the washers go under again?
> 
> I assume your using LGA115x ?


The washers are supposed to go between the bolts/screws and motherboard but there were also 3 washers inside 3 of the 4 the thumb screws (the female thumb screws that the springs go inside of and get tightened down).

So i'm not sure if im missing 3 washers or have 1 extra. I tried to tighten the thumb screws without washers inside and it surely wasnt as smooth. Not sure if i can get away without using washers in there if they are supposed to be for those as well though.

And using 1150.

I tell ya i am so flippin sick of companies poor QC with missing items. If this is missing then this is the 4th product ive received just recently with missing parts...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did pretty much copy someone entirely though xD


It's bad frikkin ass... excellent work. I may copy your copying. The straight run from RAM block to RAM block eliminates the conflicting angles on my Rampage tubing setup.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> How do spirit levels help here, don't they just help you with making the tubing parallel to the ground?


sorry made an assumption, didnt read the previous posts
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's bad frikkin ass... excellent work. I may copy your copying. The straight run from RAM block to RAM block eliminates the conflicting angles on my Rampage tubing setup.


Thanks









Again, compared to James Robocop build its just a cute mimic.

It was honestly easier than I expected. Perhaps im also just getting alot more accomodated with acrylic tubing now as well. But the tubing from my previous setup oddly was very useful in this new config, I didnt have to do too much cutting. Also, I use the spacers that EK includes with their GPU blocks all the time in my builds, they are extremely helpful for me when an angle is just a tad bit off. They are approximately 1.7mm I believe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's bad frikkin ass... excellent work. I may copy your copying. The straight run from RAM block to RAM block eliminates the conflicting angles on my Rampage tubing setup.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> The washers are supposed to go between the bolts/screws and motherboard but there were also 3 washers inside 3 of the 4 the thumb screws (the female thumb screws that the springs go inside of and get tightened down).
> 
> So i'm not sure if im missing 3 washers or have 1 extra. I tried to tighten the thumb screws without washers inside and it surely wasnt as smooth. Not sure if i can get away without using washers in there if they are supposed to be for those as well though.
> 
> And using 1150.
> 
> I tell ya i am so flippin sick of companies poor QC with missing items. If this is missing then this is the 4th product ive received just recently with missing parts...


seriously. I just had PPS forget to include 2 of the pump tops I just displayed in a couple orders ago, so then I made a new order just after that and told them to include it in there. So then I get that package and they misplaced another item, and also gave me 12mm sized fittings instead of the 16mm versions I ordered....

But honestly I never use the washers for the thumbscrews, I was hoping you would mention that. I would definately use washers for the screws going into the motherboard backplate underneath the CPU socket however. some of the springs have given me a rough feel and some havnt, but its totally fine.

I havnt used LGA1150 in a while, but now with LGA 2011 I just screw in the standoffs, put the block over, put the springs in, and then screw down the thumbscrews. Never had any issues


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> The washers are supposed to go between the bolts/screws and motherboard but there were also 3 washers inside 3 of the 4 the thumb screws (the female thumb screws that the springs go inside of and get tightened down).
> 
> So i'm not sure if im missing 3 washers or have 1 extra. I tried to tighten the thumb screws without washers inside and it surely wasnt as smooth. Not sure if i can get away without using washers in there if they are supposed to be for those as well though.
> 
> And using 1150.
> 
> I tell ya i am so flippin sick of companies poor QC with missing items. If this is missing then this is the 4th product ive received just recently with missing parts...


My Supreme HF also came with missing rubber washers (for insulating the motherboard backplate) had to do some ghetto stuff to get it to work without shorting out my board


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> sorry made an assumption, didnt read the previous posts
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, compared to James Robocop build its just a cute mimic.
> 
> It was honestly easier than I expected. Perhaps im also just getting alot more accomodated with acrylic tubing now as well. But the tubing from my previous setup oddly was very useful in this new config, I didnt have to do too much cutting. Also, I use the spacers that EK includes with their GPU blocks all the time in my builds, they are extremely helpful for me when an angle is just a tad bit off. They are approximately 1.7mm I believe.
> 
> seriously. I just had PPS forget to include 2 of the pump tops I just displayed in a couple orders ago, so then I made a new order just after that and told them to include it in there. So then I get that package and they misplaced another item, and also gave me 12mm sized fittings instead of the 16mm versions I ordered....
> 
> But honestly I never use the washers for the thumbscrews, I was hoping you would mention that. I would definately use washers for the screws going into the motherboard backplate underneath the CPU socket however. some of the springs have given me a rough feel and some havnt, but its totally fine.
> 
> I havnt used LGA1150 in a while, but now with LGA 2011 I just screw in the standoffs, put the block over, put the springs in, and then screw down the thumbscrews. Never had any issues


Thanks, ill try without the washers in the thumb screws (though it woulda been nice, it turns much smoother).

Now if i find out im missing 1 more item as i put this WC rig together over the next few days heads are gonna roll.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Uhh.. 15 bucks for one last tubing bend?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll opt for the extenders and 90d adapters in this case :/


Yeah, for one last bend it isn't worth it. However, it's a tool like anything else and if you plan on ever changing anything in the future or building a new one using hardline it will be there for you, ready to use. That's how I justify a lot of tools I purchased.


----------



## SolarNova

If u read the instructions ...it does tell u.

I use the supremecy evo myself , infact I only installed it a coupel weeks ago.

Anyway there should NOT be any washers inside the thumb screws. they just get there from being in the same bag.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> If u read the instructions ...it does tell u.
> 
> I use the supremecy evo myself , infact I only installed it a coupel weeks ago.
> 
> Anyway there should NOT be any washers inside the thumb screws. they just get there from being in the same bag.


I read the instructions, only thing i saw was that there should be 4 washers, that isnt exactly telling you that there may already be washers in the thumb screws. And since there was 3 of them wedged all the way inside (and it made tightening less scratchy) its easy to assume they might be supposed to go there.

Anyway thats good to know at least (and maybe they should consider adding 4 washers for the thumb screws, it did make it much nicer).


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I read the instructions, only thing i saw was that there should be 4 washers, that isnt exactly telling you that there may already be washers in the thumb screws. And since there was 3 of them wedged all the way inside (and it made tightening less scratchy) its easy to assume they might be supposed to go there.
> 
> Anyway thats good to know at least (and maybe they should consider adding 4 washers for the thumb screws, it did make it much nicer).


honestly they aren't. I was thinking of saying what Solar just said a moment ago, but It sounded like too much of an assumption for it to be a useful tip for you to guide from. The same thing had literally happened to me, where I think 2 or 3 of them had the washer up inside the thumbscrew, and I wasn't sure if thats what was intended. But when it seemed more troubling to get the other washers for the thumbscrews, I just said screw it and never thought of it again.

But I really wouldnt worry about it. I would also imagine that the thread on the thumbscrews is just right in length in that the correct amount of pressure is being applied to the cpu. You dont want too little or too much of that.


----------



## Bluemustang

Hmm i always use isopropyl alcohol for cleaning thermal paste but i just realized my GPU blocks are nickel plated copper and alcohol is bad with nickel. Should i not use isopropyl to clean old thermal paste off with this nickel plating?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hmm i always use isopropyl alcohol for cleaning thermal paste but i just realized my GPU blocks are nickel plated copper and *alcohol is bad with nickel*. Should i not use isopropyl to clean old thermal paste off with this nickel plating?


Wut?


----------



## Razroid

First time hearing ipa is bad with nickel ._.


----------



## Bluemustang

Really? It is possible im mixing up nickel with acrylic. If so my bad, i have a month of reading crammed into my head for my first water cooled build


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> First time hearing *ipa* is bad with nickel ._.


IPA is good with everything. I prefer Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA. Oh wait.... different IPA. My comment still stands.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> IPA is good with everything. I prefer Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA. Oh wait.... different IPA. My comment still stands.










I was thinking Black Butte Lager Porter. Been a while since I had that. That 90% IPA is some good stuff... WOuldn't recommend chugging it Though.

THe Cautious ONe


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking Black Butte Lager Porter. Been a while since I had that. That 90% IPA is some good stuff... WOuldn't recommend chugging it Though.
> 
> THe Cautious ONe


Actually just had that for the first time a few weeks ago. Really good. I need to restock my fridge. I'm thinking Bell's Two Hearted this time.

Sorry BNeg. Off topic.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Actually just had that for the first time a few weeks ago. Really good. *I need to restock my fridge*. I'm thinking Bell's Two Hearted this time.
> 
> Sorry BNeg. Off topic.


No We are on topic. Water Cooling and Fridge Go hand IN hand. Just like that BLack Butte from the Tap. Had a ton of it in WA State and some great Irish Pubs.

The Cautious One


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Really? It is possible im mixing up nickel with acrylic. If so my bad, i have a month of reading crammed into my head for my first water cooled build


Yeah, pretty sure it's acrylic that does not go well with IPA.


----------



## Nichismo

lol I literally spent the last few hours and all of last night cleaning my blocks with IPA mainly.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Lol funny you should mention, its actually JamesWalters Robocop, it was a mod of the month winner here.


----------



## Nichismo

JamesWalt Numero Uno, sorry sorry, not JamesWalter....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> JamesWalt Numero Uno, sorry sorry, not JamesWalter....


Yeah, my fault as well. I should have recognized that it was James' design.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well got bored at the shop, slow day, so decided to make my corsair c70 a rev ATX case. Looks like it'll end up being beneficial to mounting a 360 Rad to the bottom of the case (I plan on reinstalling the 5.25 bay section as well)


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/exhggZtNj

https://imageshack.com/i/f0X67HW5j

Decided to test out one of the new ddc's, made a little mini loop up and seems really quiet.


----------



## MocoIMO

My semi complete SM5 + 350D in the works lurking in the background


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/exhggZtNj
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/f0X67HW5j
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to test out one of the new ddc's, made a little mini loop up and seems really quiet.


Thats because its a 10w.


----------



## khemist

Indeed, i'll be keeping it as a spare most likely.


----------



## Doc3379

Darth Baggins, I like where your head is at with that C70. I wish they made more reverse atx chassis. I refuse the pay the absurd prices that caselabs demands for theirs.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> Darth Baggins, I like where your head is at with that C70. I wish they made more reverse atx chassis. I refuse the pay the absurd prices that caselabs demands for theirs.


Considering that when you order a case from CaseLabs it's not just sitting on a shelf, or a bunch of pre-made parts sitting in a warehouse and they custom make all the parts for you to your specs after you order! Yeah I don't find that all that absurd, especially since it could very possibly be at least one of that last cases if not the last case you buy. When I think about the amount of money I've spent in the last 10 years on different cases trying to find one that fit my needs I've spent enough to buy at least 2 CaseLabs cases and I'm sure there are others in the same situation, since most enthusiast grade cases are around $200 - $300. Now I'm not intending to start a argument here, just giving the other side to things here


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> Darth Baggins, I like where your head is at with that C70. I wish they made more reverse atx chassis. I refuse the pay the absurd prices that caselabs demands for theirs.
> 
> 
> 
> *Considering that when you order a case from CaseLabs it's not just sitting on a shelf, or a bunch of pre-made parts sitting in a warehouse and they custom make all the parts for you to your specs after you order!* Yeah I don't find that all that absurd, especially since it could very possibly be at least one of that last cases if not the last case you buy. When I think about the amount of money I've spent in the last 10 years on different cases trying to find one that fit my needs I've spent enough to buy at least 2 CaseLabs cases and I'm sure there are others in the same situation, since most enthusiast grade cases are around $200 - $300. Now I'm not intending to start a argument here, just giving the other side to things here
Click to expand...

I fail to see how this is a selling point.

All the parts are pattern parts,nothing is 'custom' as such,you cant alter the structure beyond what is offered in the shop. However,it doesnt stop them being great cases.

Mine is currently in Forbes again....

http://www.forbes.com/pictures/fkim45gdmd/18-clos3-impact/


----------



## DarthBaggins

I personally like case labs cases as they are extremely well made, the c70 isn't a bad case but really is flimsy once apart.i do plan on getting a case labs case in the hopefully near future and that's due to it fitting my needs in how often I like to swap out components. Also making the c70 a rev atx want that difficult but I do have the tools and a shop to do so, never afraid to break out my grinders and cutting Wheels lol.

B Neg gets around lol


----------



## SolarNova

Personally I'd like to see some 90 degree counter clockwise ATX cases. (So the rear I/O is now at the bottom of the case - Obviosly the Case itself would be raised higher than normal to allow routing of cable under the case, or indent the I/O somewhat and include a indented cable route.)

So fed up with seeing the backside of graphics cards all the time.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I fail to see how this is a selling point.
> 
> All the parts are pattern parts,nothing is 'custom' as such,you cant alter the structure beyond what is offered in the shop. However,it doesnt stop them being great cases.
> 
> Mine is currently in Forbes again....
> 
> http://www.forbes.com/pictures/fkim45gdmd/18-clos3-impact/


Though you are right that all the parts are pattern parts, I'd still consider it a small selling point knowing that the parts weren't made at different times and powder-coated at different times with different batches of power so that all the parts might be slightly different shades etc. Knowing that all the part that went into my case were just stamped and coated before it was shipped to me is a selling point IMO. I was just trying in a very long winded way trying to point out the difference in quality between pre-made mass produced cases and what CaeLabs does.

Oh and awesome Rig in the link







I can see why it was picked up by Forbes!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Thought you are right that all the parts are pattern parts, I'd still consider it a small selling point knowing that the parts weren't made at different times and powder-coated at different times with different batches of power so that all the parts might be slightly different shades etc. Knowing that all the part that went into my case were just stamped and coated before it was shipped to me is a selling point IMO. I was just trying in a very long winded way trying to point out the difference in quality between pre-made mass produced cases and what CaeLabs does.


The Quality is the Material Used to Produce the Case.

TCO


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Quality is the Material Used to Produce the Case.
> 
> TCO


Agreed


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I fail to see how this is a selling point.
> 
> All the parts are pattern parts,nothing is 'custom' as such,you cant alter the structure beyond what is offered in the shop. However,it doesnt stop them being great cases.
> 
> Mine is currently in Forbes again....
> 
> http://www.forbes.com/pictures/fkim45gdmd/18-clos3-impact/
> 
> 
> 
> Though you are right that all the parts are pattern parts, I'd still consider it a small selling point knowing that the parts weren't made at different times and *powder-coated at different times with different batches of power so that all the parts might be slightly different shades etc*. Knowing that all the part that went into my case were just stamped and coated before it was shipped to me is a selling point IMO. I was just trying in a very long winded way trying to point out the difference in quality between pre-made mass produced cases and what CaeLabs does.
Click to expand...

An agreeable point,not likely but possible.

You are paying for thick alu mainly,cheap cases are plastic for a reason.


----------



## aka13

How much should I really worry about fan grills? Do they really reduce the airflow that much? I was thinking of either using no grill at all or one of these -


Anyone had any experience?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> How much should I really worry about fan grills? Do they really reduce the airflow that much? I was thinking of either using no grill at all or one of these -
> 
> 
> Anyone had any experience?


Fan grills increase noise and choke airflow.

Puget did a nice little experiment with them.

http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Agreed


The Thick Alum that B Neg has stated is what is really the Key to longevity in my opinion. He also said the lower cost association is due to the flux use of plastic in a case. which is why I moved on from the 750D

The Cautious ONe


----------



## DarthBaggins

partum warfareAlso Jameswalt made it into Forbes as well


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Personally I'd like to see some 90 degree counter clockwise ATX cases. (So the rear I/O is now at the bottom of the case - Obviosly the Case itself would be raised higher than normal to allow routing of cable under the case, or indent the I/O somewhat and include a indented cable route.)
> 
> So fed up with seeing the backside of graphics cards all the time.


You mean horizontal motherboard? There have been more popping up recently. Bitfenix has their Prodigy case. CaseLabs has a few. Coolermaster HAF XB. And of course MountainMods, which I believe was one of the first to offer horizontal motherboard trays. Not to mention all the Test Benches too.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fan grills increase noise and choke airflow.
> 
> Puget did a nice little experiment with them.
> 
> http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/


Surprising results, the worst scenario is only 86,5% of CFM of the full no grill value. Thank you for the article.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> partum warfareAlso Jameswalt made it into Forbes as well


I recognized a few builds, Loramentum and Orange Horizon being others


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fan grills increase noise and choke airflow.
> 
> Puget did a nice little experiment with them.
> 
> http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
> 
> 
> 
> Surprising results, the worst scenario is only 86,5% of CFM of the full no grill value. Thank you for the article.
Click to expand...

CFM is only half the story,pressure is hurt greatly by grills. Sadly,an unmeasured metric in those tests.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> CFM is only half the story,pressure is hurt greatly by grills. Sadly,an unmeasured metric in those tests.


Reasonable, makes sense. How much would the expected drop be, 30%? 40%?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> CFM is only half the story,pressure is hurt greatly by grills. Sadly,an unmeasured metric in those tests.
> 
> 
> 
> Reasonable, makes sense. How much would the expected drop be, 30%? 40%?
Click to expand...

It really is fan dependent and the interaction of the blade profile with the grill,how it will affect the PQ curve....a lot of variables,20% seems reasonable.....if a little guessed.....


----------



## aka13

Thank you again, rep+. I think I will make some practical measurements afterwards, I can always throw the grills away.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> Darth Baggins, I like where your head is at with that C70. I wish they made more reverse atx chassis. I refuse the pay the absurd prices that caselabs demands for theirs.


Thats no way to walk around.

lol your ignorance is showing









Im an extremely impatient person. Having to wait a month is more frustrating to me than the price, I want an S5 now.

to go with my SM8.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> An agreeable point,not likely but possible.
> 
> You are paying for thick alu mainly,cheap cases are plastic for a reason.


that and the modularity, I absolutely love the removable mobo tray, exterior panel pieces/separate internal support structure, no rivets whatsoever, drop in radiator mounts, and the flex bay systems. The accessory mounts are awesome too but I have yet to feel any need to use them

and the overall subtle aesthetic is literally my favorite in the industry. Even among typical cases that I like, theres always at least one minor part in the style that I dont like.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/exhggZtNj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/f0X67HW5j
> 
> Decided to test out one of the new ddc's, made a little mini loop up and seems really quiet.


i'd love to check a video of this pump in action. there's precious little reviews around the web for it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/exhggZtNj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/f0X67HW5j
> 
> Decided to test out one of the new ddc's, made a little mini loop up and seems really quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> i'd love to check a video of this pump in action. there's precious little reviews around the web for it
Click to expand...

Its just a 10w DDC with an uneeded heatsink fitted.......


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You mean horizontal motherboard? There have been more popping up recently. Bitfenix has their Prodigy case. CaseLabs has a few. Coolermaster HAF XB. And of course MountainMods, which I believe was one of the first to offer horizontal motherboard trays. Not to mention all the Test Benches too.


no no.

I mean still mounted vertically like normal BUT rotate the motherboard 90 degrees counter clockwise so that the rear I/O is now coming out the bottom fo the case. Thus making the graphics cards lay vertically and with the heatsink side facing towards the front of the case.

With such a layout u would likely have the PSU up the top rear of the case, instead of bottom rear.


----------



## Leyaena

Does anyone have any experience with the new EK Vardars? And more specifically, undervolting them to run at low RPM?
I'm putting in extra radiator space really soon, with the goal of going as quiet as possible, so this is the moment where I either change out all my fans to Vardars, or order some more Noctua NF-F12's. What do you guys think?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with the new EK Vardars? And more specifically, undervolting them to run at low RPM?
> I'm putting in extra radiator space really soon, with the goal of going as quiet as possible, so this is the moment where I either change out all my fans to Vardars, or order some more Noctua NF-F12's. What do you guys think?


I believe that all the Vardar fans are PWM controlled, so undervolting is probably not your best option for them.
I just received 6 x F3 1850 Vardars but have yet to hook them up to anything.
For rpm control of them I think you need to thinking about PWM control and a splitter.


----------



## Leyaena

I've got all of the fans in my case hooked up to a Bitfenix Recon fan controller though, which controls via voltage (I would assume, since the receiving end on the controller is 3-pin). I guess I could cut out the fan controller and redo all of the splitters to hook up to my motherboard, but the way it's set up now has actually worked just fine up until now.

I was more concerned about how much air they'd push through a rad at 800ish RPM. And how they'd compare to the Noctua's noise-wise at that point.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its just a 10w DDC with an uneeded heatsink fitted.......


Not too fussed about the heatsink, just wanna hear the pitch on it. Not sure if it'll sound the same as a DDC turnt down via PWM


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I believe that all the Vardar fans are PWM controlled, so undervolting is probably not your best option for them.
> I just received 6 x F3 1850 Vardars but have yet to hook them up to anything.
> For rpm control of them I think you need to thinking about PWM control and a splitter.


PWM is recommended, but DC control also works. In the long term though? I don't know and I suspect neither do the EK guys. What I do know is that more often than not, PWM control results in a wider RPM range of operation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I've got all of the fans in my case hooked up to a Bitfenix Recon fan controller though, which controls via voltage (I would assume, since the receiving end on the controller is 3-pin). I guess I could cut out the fan controller and redo all of the splitters to hook up to my motherboard, but the way it's set up now has actually worked just fine up until now.
> 
> I was more concerned about how much air they'd push through a rad at 800ish RPM. And how they'd compare to the Noctua's noise-wise at that point.


To be honest, most fans perform similarly at the 800ish RPM on an airflow/noise basis. Some excellent fans (like the EK Vardar ones) do come out ahead but not really enough to say go with them only. I would say go with whatever you like and is in your budget.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> no no.
> 
> I mean still mounted vertically like normal BUT rotate the motherboard 90 degrees counter clockwise so that the rear I/O is now coming out the bottom fo the case. Thus making the graphics cards lay vertically and with the heatsink side facing towards the front of the case.
> 
> With such a layout u would likely have the PSU up the top rear of the case, instead of bottom rear.


OOOOHH! My mistake. Like the Silverstone FT02. I agree, there should be more cases like that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hmmm wonder if I could make my elite 130 like that for an mitx version


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> no no.
> 
> I mean still mounted vertically like normal BUT rotate the motherboard 90 degrees counter clockwise so that the rear I/O is now coming out the bottom fo the case. Thus making the graphics cards lay vertically and with the heatsink side facing towards the front of the case.


But... Why would you that?

That design isn't convenient.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> no no.
> 
> I mean still mounted vertically like normal BUT rotate the motherboard 90 degrees counter clockwise so that the rear I/O is now coming out the bottom fo the case. Thus making the graphics cards lay vertically and with the heatsink side facing towards the front of the case.
> 
> With such a layout u would likely have the PSU up the top rear of the case, instead of bottom rear.
> 
> 
> 
> OOOOHH! My mistake. Like the Silverstone FT02. I agree, there should be more cases like that.
Click to expand...

There can't be. Silverstone patented the layout. And no, I'm not kidding.


----------



## VSG

I thought it ran out recently?


----------



## morencyam

It must have because the In-Win D Frame, D-Frame Mini, and S Frame are like that as well


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> no no.
> 
> I mean still mounted vertically like normal BUT rotate the motherboard 90 degrees counter clockwise so that the rear I/O is now coming out the bottom fo the case. Thus making the graphics cards lay vertically and with the heatsink side facing towards the front of the case.
> 
> With such a layout u would likely have the PSU up the top rear of the case, instead of bottom rear.
> 
> 
> 
> OOOOHH! My mistake. Like the Silverstone FT02. I agree, there should be more cases like that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There can't be. Silverstone patented the layout. And no, I'm not kidding.
Click to expand...

Patents can be a bit of a bluffing game, especially if your concept is nothing new.

Having a patent doesn't guarantee that patent will hold up in court, and court cases cost big time. Pardon the pun, but sometimes these patents don't hold water...


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> There can't be. Silverstone patented the layout. And no, I'm not kidding.


should the community get its hopes up for a CL case under 20L in volume?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> no no.
> 
> I mean still mounted vertically like normal BUT rotate the motherboard 90 degrees counter clockwise so that the rear I/O is now coming out the bottom fo the case. Thus making the graphics cards lay vertically and with the heatsink side facing towards the front of the case.
> 
> With such a layout u would likely have the PSU up the top rear of the case, instead of bottom rear.
> 
> 
> 
> OOOOHH! My mistake. Like the Silverstone FT02. I agree, there should be more cases like that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There can't be. Silverstone patented the layout. And no, I'm not kidding.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Patents can be a bit of a bluffing game, especially if your concept is nothing new.
> 
> Having a patent doesn't guarantee that patent will hold up in court, and court cases cost big time. Pardon the pun, but sometimes these patents don't hold water...
Click to expand...

Perhaps, but a court case could crush a LOT of the companies in this industry. So, if you're willing to hedge the money for a possible court battle, I'll send you my routing number.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> There can't be. Silverstone patented the layout. And no, I'm not kidding.
> 
> 
> 
> should the community get its hopes up for a CL case under 20L in volume?
Click to expand...

<20? Not sure. We've learned to never say never, and if there were, I wouldn't be able to tell you without an official product release anyway.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Perhaps, but a court case could crush a LOT of the companies in this industry. So, if you're willing to hedge the money for a possible court battle, I'll send you my routing number.
> <20? Not sure. We've learned to never say never, and if there were, I wouldn't be able to tell you without an official product release anyway.


<20. And not for NUC's









The SFF crew want to see some CL love


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> no no.
> 
> I mean still mounted vertically like normal BUT rotate the motherboard 90 degrees counter clockwise so that the rear I/O is now coming out the bottom fo the case. Thus making the graphics cards lay vertically and with the heatsink side facing towards the front of the case.
> 
> With such a layout u would likely have the PSU up the top rear of the case, instead of bottom rear.
> 
> 
> 
> OOOOHH! My mistake. Like the Silverstone FT02. I agree, there should be more cases like that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There can't be. Silverstone patented the layout. And no, I'm not kidding.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Patents can be a bit of a bluffing game, especially if your concept is nothing new.
> 
> Having a patent doesn't guarantee that patent will hold up in court, and court cases cost big time. Pardon the pun, but sometimes these patents don't hold water...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Perhaps, but a court case could crush a LOT of the companies in this industry. So, if you're willing to hedge the money for a possible court battle, I'll send you my routing number.
Click to expand...

Yeah sure, the cheques in the mail..


----------



## Ceadderman

lol, he said NUCs. On OCN. That's like saying motorized skateboard in Hot Rod magazie.









~Ceadder


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with the new EK Vardars? And more specifically, undervolting them to run at low RPM?
> I'm putting in extra radiator space really soon, with the goal of going as quiet as possible, so this is the moment where I either change out all my fans to Vardars, or order some more Noctua NF-F12's. What do you guys think?


i have the vardar 2200rpm ones i wouldn't under volt them i have mine pwm control from my aquaro 5 lt i keep mine at 600-1200rpm my gpu is louder then them. at full speed they kick out some nice flow . so far i love them the pwm works (looks at corsairs fans )


----------



## Ceadderman

I am torn between the 2200's and the 3000's for my high FPI HWL Stealths. Would the higher RPM range be better or the Lower range?









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Perhaps, but a court case could crush a LOT of the companies in this industry. So, if you're willing to hedge the money for a possible court battle, I'll send you my routing number.
> <20? Not sure. We've learned to never say never, and if there were, I wouldn't be able to tell you without an official product release anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> <20. And not for NUC's _fan controllers_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The SFF crew want to see some CL love
Click to expand...

FTFY


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> <20. And not for NUC's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The SFF crew want to see some CL love


Would like to see @Aibohphobia's case in caselabs style. X99 and dual 980s in a 17 litre case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just got my shipment from PPC's.

Got one of many to come Monsoon chaingun Acrylic compression sets.

Pics just don't do them justice. They are solidly built. My only gripes are the tool is near worthless and you have to apply the washers to the threaded portion. This is why the tool is near worthless. The hex key end fits in the corners of the hex and that doesn't sit well with confidence of not matting the silver plating. Rather use the proper sized allen wrench than that imho. The other end is the traditional claw end from the original Monsoon Free Center compression fittings. There is simply NO use. For it except for putting the o-rings on. That's it! The fittings are awesome... But I am really dissappoint in Monsoon for poor execution especially when you only get 4 fittings to a pack for almost as much as they charge for the FC 6 pack. I kinda expect better imho. So if I were to rate them I would give them 4 out of 5







's.

I also got swiftech Rad stand. It's sturdy and Powdercoated Aluminum. I have to be alot more critical of it however. Because Radiators have been standardized. There is absolutely no reason such a simple thing should have misaligned holes. This is the 240-480 bracket and the middle two radiator mounts are off. Then also the flat(case) side of the bracket is difficult to get the supplied screws into. The threads have been coated with Powdercoating. There just is no excuse for that either. All openings should ALWAYS get plugged before PC is applied at the coaters. No exceptions.

I can work around these issues but I expected better from both manufacturers. Although as I stated I am seriously impressed with the quality of the fittings themselves. I will get ics up soon. as I can.









~Ceadder


----------



## WiSK

I like the look of the Monsoon chain gun fittings as well. From the photos in online stores I wouldn't have bought them myself, but my son picked them out for his build and when I saw them close up I could appreciate the build quality. Can't comment on the ones for acrylic because my son used flex tube.

He used the chain gun type on the reservoir, CPU block and radiators. Normal free centres on the top GPU block and pump. Sorry my camera phone made it all look a bit brown/yellow


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am torn between the 2200's and the 3000's for my high FPI HWL Stealths. Would the higher RPM range be better or the Lower range?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


*IF* You have a PWM capable controller, you could use the 3000 rpm ones and still be able to slow them down enough to be audibly acceptable . . . . . .

OTH, if all you have is voltage control, I'd suggest the 2200 rpm ones, as being able to get acceptable noise levels from the faster ones without PWM control is as "iffy" as it gets.

Darlene


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I like the look of the Monsoon chain gun fittings as well. From the photos in online stores I wouldn't have bought them myself, but my son picked them out for his build and when I saw them close up I could appreciate the build quality. Can't comment on the ones for acrylic because my son used flex tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> He used the chain gun type on the reservoir, CPU block and radiators. Normal free centres on the top GPU block and pump. Sorry my camera phone made it all look a bit brown/yellow


Looks really nice.
What case is that?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Looks really nice.
> What case is that?


My guess is the M1


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> OOOOHH! My mistake. Like the Silverstone FT02. I agree, there should be more cases like that.


Sorry nope, still not what im on about.

The Silverstone cases have the I/O on the TOP of the case. Im talking about having it on the BOTTOM of the case. Also that particular case u linked seems to have the board mounted on the wrong side (left), not the normal (right) side, when viewing from the front.


----------



## emsj86

I think I know what you mean. He wants the board usb and gpu dvi hdmi etc slots to be facing the bottom of the case of I'm correct


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Sorry nope, still not what im on about.
> 
> The Silverstone cases have the I/O on the TOP of the case. Im talking about having it on the BOTTOM of the case. Also that particular case u linked seems to have the board mounted on the wrong side (left), not the normal (right) side, when viewing from the front.


I understand exactly what you mean, but having to turn the rig over to get to those connections is a downer. This is also what bothers me about having them on the top but then it's just a case of removing a cover.


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> But... Why would you that?
> 
> That design isn't convenient.


Convenience isn't really a priority for people like myself who want to get a great looking and working custom looped rig









And if u think about it, if designed correctly, a bottom I/O wouldn't be a problem.

You could ether have a bult in I/O extension so that u can still have ur leads plugged in from the back.
or you could have a raised case with taller 'feet' to allow the average users hand to get under without issue, to conceal the feet u could have a 'skirt' that goes down further and can be opened up when needed ot get under to the I/O.

I can think of other ways to make a bottom I/O work.

like I said, the main reason is im simply fed up seeing the ugly side of graphics cards, and other PCI-e cards in rigs, even top mounted I/O cases like those from Silverstone have this problem, unless u get one that has the motherboard tray on the left side of the case instead of the right, but then u have to be able to place ur PC in such a way that the right side window is what's showing, not the normal left side window.


----------



## electro2u

Everyone here is, like yourself, interested in great looking custom loops. Most of us prefer convenience to inconvenience and case manufacturers try not to rock the boat usually.
I also would like the block side to be easily seen.
It bugs me that reverse atx puts the Waterblock side up for GPUs but also positions them at the top of the viewing area so that they are still hard to see.


----------



## VSG

That's where I think EK did a good job with their wraparound window on the reverse ATX layout. In most cases (heh), you would still get a view of the GPU but from an acute angle.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> But... Why would you that?
> 
> That design isn't convenient.
> 
> 
> 
> Convenience isn't really a priority for people like myself who want to get a great looking and working custom looped rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if u think about it, if designed correctly, a bottom I/O wouldn't be a problem.
> 
> You could ether have a bult in I/O extension so that u can still have ur leads plugged in from the back.
> or you could have a raised case with taller 'feet' to allow the average users hand to get under without issue, to conceal the feet u could have a 'skirt' that goes down further and can be opened up when needed ot get under to the I/O.
> 
> I can think of other ways to make a bottom I/O work.
> 
> like I said, the main reason is im simply fed up seeing the ugly side of graphics cards, and other PCI-e cards in rigs, even top mounted I/O cases like those from Silverstone have this problem, unless u get one that has the motherboard tray on the left side of the case instead of the right, but then u have to be able to place ur PC in such a way that the right side window is what's showing, not the normal left side window.
Click to expand...

Manufacturers don't make anything like this for several reasons:

1. It's inconvenient. You need to be able to see what ports you're working with.
2. Again, convenience. If you have taller "feet" to be able to plug or unplug something, you're going to be about a foot tall there. figure you have to get your hand in there, with a connector and plug it in. If you have a DVI port, for instance, you not only have to get that giant connector with it's wire and your hand beneath the case, you have to then plug it in the correct port, then screw down the retention screws.
3. You mentioned a IO extention plate. Not even possible. Not only do you have to design something that will work with every single motherboard (which isn't possible), you also have to have it manufactured. That would add significant cost with little to no benefit.

The easiest way to combat all of this: Mod. Make custom backplates if one isn't available for the card you don't want to see the pcb on, which plenty of modders do.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Convenience isn't really a priority for people like myself who want to get a great looking and working custom looped rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if u think about it, if designed correctly, a bottom I/O wouldn't be a problem.
> 
> You could ether have a bult in I/O extension so that u can still have ur leads plugged in from the back.
> or you could have a raised case with taller 'feet' to allow the average users hand to get under without issue, to conceal the feet u could have a 'skirt' that goes down further and can be opened up when needed ot get under to the I/O.
> 
> I can think of other ways to make a bottom I/O work.
> 
> like I said, the main reason is im simply fed up seeing the ugly side of graphics cards, and other PCI-e cards in rigs, even top mounted I/O cases like those from Silverstone have this problem, unless u get one that has the motherboard tray on the left side of the case instead of the right, but then u have to be able to place ur PC in such a way that the right side window is what's showing, not the normal left side window.


You mean something along the lines like how @Jameswalt1's Parvum Warfare is oriented?

Myself, I was thinking of a similar thing with an idea I had for a CaseLabs reverse ATX SMA8 build that would have two ATX motherboards, with the second one having all the I/O pointed down into the lower chamber, but after a lot of thought I couldn't come up with a reasonably clean way of doing it, not to mention hubby telling me the benefits of that second rig being in it's own case...


----------



## psycho84

But some Backplates on my Cards


----------



## Murder Inc

first bend done in my first water cooling loop. took me almost half a day, but i'm not completely satisfied with it and i'm starting to think that i've begun something i cant complete









feels like i got getting pretty good at heating up the tube and bending it, what im struggling with is the measurements so any advice is taken with appreciation.
one thing i know for sure is that its gonna take a loooong time to get it done, but i think the end result is gonna be good.

sorry for the bad picture, it was taken with my old and crappy s3


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murder Inc*
> 
> first bend done in my first water cooling loop. took me almost half a day, but i'm not completely satisfied with it and i'm starting to think that i've begun something i cant complete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> feels like i got getting pretty good at heating up the tube and bending it, what im struggling with is the measurements so any advice is taken with appreciation.
> one thing i know for sure is that its gonna take a loooong time to get it done, but i think the end result is gonna be good.
> 
> sorry for the bad picture, it was taken with my old and crappy s3


If you don't have it, consider buying the Monsoon Bending kit. And watch his videos. Even if you aren't using monsoon gear, measuring is exactly how he describes it.

Essentially, you measure from the center of one fitting, to the center of the other. Make sure your 90 degree bends are perfect with the included triangle, and add a few mm to each end to account for the tube that has to go in the fitting.


----------



## electro2u

I often find to get a completely square 90 degree I have to go just a little past 90 , because when you release pressure if you haven't quite waited long enough the silicon insert I'm using begins to pull on the bend and it at a smaller angle.


----------



## Murder Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> If you don't have it, consider buying the Monsoon Bending kit. And watch his videos. Even if you aren't using monsoon gear, measuring is exactly how he describes it.
> 
> Essentially, you measure from the center of one fitting, to the center of the other. Make sure your 90 degree bends are perfect with the included triangle, and add a few mm to each end to account for the tube that has to go in the fitting.


yea i have both the mandrel kit and the measuring kit with hardline economy fittings.
guess i just have to be more precise in my measuring. i'll give it some more time tomorrow. my patience has ran out for today.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I often find to get a completely square 90 degree I have to go just a little past 90 , because when you release pressure if you haven't quite waited long enough the silicon insert I'm using begins to pull on the bend and it at a smaller angle.


yea, i realised the same, when it happened to me i just heated the pipe again and took it back to the monsoon mandrel.
i'll be doing a couple bends tomorrow using some other objects as mandrels just to see how it works out


----------



## VSG

I think I caught the be quiet! love bug going on around here:










Such a premium fan, such a premium price









Edit: Two of the reservoirs going into the TX10-D


----------



## sinnedone

Oooh, dem rezes doh. Lol

They look real nice in that color. Frozenq needs to come out with some sort of pump top res combo for their reservoirs.


----------



## electro2u

They look like warp drive cores. Sick.


----------



## wermad

Any one know of a universal tube reservoir bracket (80-75mm) to mount on a 120mm fan? I can't seem to find one for my AC tube res. Might have to replace the res or maybe fashion one out of acrylic...


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one know of a universal tube reservoir bracket (80-75mm) to mount on a 120mm fan? I can't seem to find one for my AC tube res. Might have to replace the res or maybe fashion one out of acrylic...


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20895/ex-pmp-244/Alphacool_Universal_Pump_Mount_-_120mm_140mm_Mount.html?id=XmXII4qA&mv_pc=7955
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8797/ex-pmp-79/UNDesigns_Z2_Pump_Bracket_-_120mm_Fan_Mount.html?id=XmXII4qA&mv_pc=8170

They're both made for pumps, but I'm sure you can get a res on one of them as well.


----------



## wermad

No, those are pump brackets are seriously restrictive to the air flow. And the AC bracket is rubbish tbh and I wouldn't risk mounting on it these. Its a heavy res and i don't want to break it.

I'm looking for something along these brackets:



edit:

Will use with these if there's no specific 120mm fan mounting:


----------



## Ceadderman

Try these...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/un-d...for-laing-d4-d5-ddc-pumps-120mm-fans-red.html

I'll be using them to mount my pumps between my 360s. one should work well for mounting a Reservoir. Fits a standard 120 but they also have 140 brackets of the same design should you be able to mount to your 140 fan mounts.










~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

I think is done:







Details on the Chessboard build log.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No, those are pump brackets are seriously restrictive to the air flow. And the AC bracket is rubbish tbh and I wouldn't risk mounting on it these. Its a heavy res and i don't want to break it.
> 
> I'm looking for something along these brackets:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> 
> Will use with these if there's no specific 120mm fan mounting:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


(Un)Designs make some interesting supports:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/brand--un-designs

and ek have some too.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try these...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be using them to mount my pumps between my 360s. one should work well for mounting a Reservoir. Fits a standard 120 but they also have 140 brackets of the same design should you be able to mount to your 140 fan mounts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I just suggested that, but apparently it's too restrictive for airflow. I can understand why the Alphacool one is bad, but I really don't think that UN bracket could be any less restrictive without becoming super flimsy.


----------



## wermad

Sorry guys, I should have been a bit more specific; there's nothing to bolt on to the res. I would need something to clamps on to the res body and then bolt that to the fan mounting bracket (like the ones you guys have linked). The AC metal bracket is awkward to mount and the top plastic bracket is crap. Its a nice res but the 75mm wide body makes it hard to find accessories for it. What a shame









I think I may just ditch the AC res and go w/ a BP z tank if nothing comes up soon...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think is done:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Checkmate...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try these...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be using them to mount my pumps between my 360s. one should work well for mounting a Reservoir. Fits a standard 120 but they also have 140 brackets of the same design should you be able to mount to your 140 fan mounts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just suggested that, but apparently it's too restrictive for airflow. I can understand why the Alphacool one is bad, but I really don't think that UN bracket could be any less restrictive without becoming super flimsy.
Click to expand...

Didn't realize you'd posted that before I did. Just came in at the end of the thread.









As posted before though UN has lots of interesting brackets recently. Just saw their new 2.5 drive stands. Awesome breackets. Wonder if they would work in tandem with two .3.5" drives.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think I caught the be quiet! love bug going on around here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Such a premium fan, such a premium price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Two of the reservoirs going into the TX10-D


I really like the BeQuiet fans...because they are.


----------



## lurker2501




----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I really like the BeQuiet fans...because they are.


Indeed! I tested it out last night and they really are true to the tagline.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I really like the BeQuiet fans...because they are.
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed! I tested it out last night and they really are true to the tagline.
Click to expand...

Do you like them more than the Vardar?

I am on the fence for fan selection to be paired with PE rads.


----------



## cyphon

Does anyone know or have an estimate on the height of a ddc using the EK top and heatsink? trying to figure out a pump configuration for my new build


----------



## Alex132

Hm, I have heard bequiet! fans are actually rather loud? Maybe it was just a bad sample fan in a PSU


----------



## Rahldrac

Have anybody seen a Thermaltake V21 build? Can't remember seeing anything like that?
I was wonder about going complete overkill, with 970 SLI (already have them with waterblock on). And 4x240 radiators. 2 at the top, one at the front and one on the side?

Is there are reason for so few build logs with it? Or does everybody just love parvuum and caselabs too much?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Checkmate...










Good pun. I am just happy that I finished in time. But I think these 3 pictures are relevant to the recent discussion of cases and gpu block orientation. This is one of the things I like this inverted SMA8. On the floor the GPUs become the most highlighted thing on the build and you can see clearly those beautiful blocks as viewed from my chair in my office.







What you think @XNine












edit - well one more to illustrate the point. This is the view while I am typing:


----------



## X-Nine

What do I think? I think it's an improvement upon an already solid build. You have a very minimalistic approach that I very much appreciate. It's almost perfect. How would I improve upon it? Have Olivia Wilde hugging it.... that's about the only thing I can think of that will make it better.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> What do I think? I think it's an improvement upon an already solid build. You have a very minimalistic approach that I very much appreciate. It's almost perfect. How would I improve upon it? Have Olivia Wilde hugging it.... that's about the only thing I can think of that will make it better.


Olivia Wilde..One can dream off it costs nothing







Thanks mate


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good pun. I am just happy that I finished in time. But I think these 3 pictures are relevant to the recent discussion of cases and gpu block orientation. This is one of the things I like this inverted SMA8. On the floor the GPUs become the most highlighted thing on the build and you can see clearly those beautiful blocks as viewed from my chair in my office.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you think @XNine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit - well one more to illustrate the point. This is the view while I am typing:


Very nice build! Reminds me of my fav chocolate bar...


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Hm, I have heard bequiet! fans are actually rather loud? Maybe it was just a bad sample fan in a PSU


The fans that they use in their PSUs often have higher speed motors than the regular SilentWings 2s. I own a small pile of the regular ones, and they're very quiet.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Looks really nice.
> What case is that?


Thanks, it's an Air 240
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> My guess is the M1


Oh no, the M1 is really much smaller and mITX. So only can fit one GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Does anyone know or have an estimate on the height of a ddc using the EK top and heatsink? trying to figure out a pump configuration for my new build


It is 54mm if I recall correctly. If you need it to be less tall, consider the Aquacomputer DDC top, it's 20mm high, so total 49mm pump+top+heatsink .


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Thanks, it's an Air 240
> Oh no, the M1 is really much smaller and mITX. So only can fit one GPU.
> It is 50mm if I recall correctly. If you need it to be less tall, consider the Aquacomputer DDC top, it's 20mm high, so total 45mm pump+top.


Thanks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Thanks


Ack! You quoted before my edit







I forgot the 4mm of the heatsink fins


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ack! You quoted before my edit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot the 4mm of the heatsink fins


Lol no worries, I was adding 10mm anyway to make sure I had the space with some to spare


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Lol no worries, I was adding 10mm anyway to make sure I had the space with some to spare


Good. Then you should also be able to fit the decoupling screws.


----------



## Bluemustang

Well this sucks, part way in to my build i realized im stuck, few issues shutting me down right now. Bought These bitspower 90 degree fittings and found out they are too short to be used with These primochill fittings and give enough clearance from blocks/rads etc (the primochills are too thick, but are my only option).

Also realized i really do need rotaries. Originally i didnt want to use rotaries cause ive heard a lot of reports of bitspower rotaries having leaking issues and wasnt sure what were safe alternatives. So i need to replace all those 90s with rotary 90s and possibly some extenders as well.

Few questions:

1. Since bitspower is out as far as rotaries are concerned what are some good safe reliable 90 degree rotaries? How about alphacool such as *These?*

2. I was only short a little bit of clearance and since rotaries are a little taller than normal 90s can i get away without extenders when using those primochill fittings i linked?

3. And i need a reliable brand for a male-male rotary for connecting a bitspower z-multi 250 Reservoir to a D5 pump as well. What would be a safe reliable one for that?

Thanks.


----------



## pc-illiterate

youre going to hear bitspower all the way as most people dont have leak issues with bitspower. bitspower fittings leaking is _ALMOST_ non-existent.


----------



## Bluemustang

When i was researching my build i found a lot of reports of bitspower rotaries leaking but never came across any reports for other brands. And as far as looks go, at this point i only care that i can get it in black basically, the alphacool look fine to me.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> When i was researching my build i found a lot of reports of bitspower rotaries leaking but never came across any reports for other brands. And as far as looks go, at this point i only care that i can get it in black basically, the alphacool look fine to me.


I have used or tested perhaps 40-50 units of 90 or 45 degrees from bitspower and only one had a leak; And you can tell was a defect straight from the factory sealed bag since the junction between the fitting and rotary base was odd and stiff. Can you point the reports you are referring to? In any case you might try the EK rotaries. They are quite good and comes in two styles (AF and CSQ), one more similar to bitspower and the other one with flat heads.


----------



## SteezyTN

My baby is all done. I had so much fun building it. Spent around $800 just for the watercooling parts, and I don't regret ANYTHING. The picture is about a month old, so the bubbles in the res are gone, and I topped it off. I just purchased a dust filer off ebay so I can change the rear exhaust to an intake, giving fresh air to the RX360. I also swapped the front "pull" fans to "push," so that improved water temps by about a degree or 2. I have all the parts listed in my SIG. Tell me what you all think


----------



## fast_fate

Time to crank em up for a few days















*BOINCers Gone Bonkers #48 - February 2nd-5th*


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I have used or tested perhaps 40-50 units of 90 or 45 degrees from bitspower and only one had a leak; And you can tell was a defect straight from the factory sealed bag since the junction between the fitting and rotary base was odd and stiff. Can you point the reports you are referring to? In any case you might try the EK rotaries. They are quite good and comes in two styles (AF and CSQ), one more similar to bitspower and the other one with flat heads.


Sorry not sure, ive read countless hundreds or probably thousands of things in the last month of researching my WC build. I just notably remember seeing a number of mentions of leaking bitspower rotaries. Though i suppose reports for any bitspower leakers would be more pronounced given their popularity and price.

I just checked out the EK ones and i actually much prefer their minimalistic looks over the bitspower. No design logo on them plus its a straight knurling rather than diamond which matches my straight knurled primochill fittings.

Any other votes for the EK 90 rotary quality or any others?

Also any word on if i should buy extenders for all or if the extra length of the rotary is enough for clearance of my fittings?


----------



## X-Nine

I've used Bitspower fittings almost exclusively for the last 5 years (and Monsoon which are fantastic too). Never, not once have I had an issue and I've probably gone through 100 fittings or more at this point from them.

I can almost guarantee that a majority of the negatives you've read are from people not screwing down the the base enough for the o-ring to seal.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Sorry not sure, ive read countless hundreds or probably thousands of things in the last month of researching my WC build. I just notably remember seeing a number of mentions of leaking bitspower rotaries. Though i suppose reports for any bitspower leakers would be more pronounced given their popularity and price.
> 
> I just checked out the EK ones and i actually much prefer their minimalistic looks over the bitspower. No design logo on them plus its a straight knurling rather than diamond which matches my straight knurled primochill fittings.
> 
> Any other votes for the EK 90 rotary quality or any others?
> 
> Also any word on if i should buy extenders for all or if the extra length of the rotary is enough for clearance of my fittings?


I've used at least 400-500 Bitspower fittings in the last few years and I've never had a single faulty fitting. That's not to say that nobody ever had a leak, but I'd say most reports are user error.

I do however plan on moving primarily to the new EK fittings from now on, for the minimalistic look you mentioned. Although I'll still continue using some of the odder adapters and valves until EK introduces more of the odd stuff.


----------



## electro2u

Working on new build.








Yes it's a lot like my main but it's better. I think I've painted myself into a corner though. Don't know how I'll plumb the vrm block. Getting the rad in push pull at the top required some discomfort and expletives.

Anyone have suggestions on routing order?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I've used at least 400-500 Bitspower fittings in the last few years and I've never had a single faulty fitting. That's not to say that nobody ever had a leak, but I'd say most reports are user error.
> 
> I do however plan on moving primarily to the new EK fittings from now on, for the minimalistic look you mentioned. Although I'll still continue using some of the odder adapters and valves until EK introduces more of the odd stuff.


Well now you guys have renewed my faith in bitspower lol. Now im not sure whether to just go with the (apparently trustworthy) bitspower or the EK ones that i prefer the look of This one in particular. Plus its a little cheaper but i dont really care about a couple bucks.

And since you have by far the most experience mentioned yet (400-500 fittings sheesh)....have you ever used a bitspower male to male rotary for mounting a res on top of a pump? Without issues?

And thanks guys, lots of helpful info









But as to my other question should i bother getting extensions for these rotaries? The bitspower 90 degree gave insufficient clearance for my primochill fittings, but the 90 rotaries give a little more clearance. It was quite close before so it might make it, but its a risk.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Well now you guys have renewed my faith in bitspower lol. Now im not sure whether to just go with the (apparently trustworthy) bitspower or the EK ones that i prefer the look of This one in particular. Plus its a little cheaper but i dont really care about a couple bucks.
> 
> And since you have by far the most experience mentioned yet (400-500 fittings sheesh)....have you ever used a bitspower male to male rotary for mounting a res on top of a pump? Without issues?
> 
> And thanks guys, lots of helpful info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as to my other question should i bother getting extensions for these rotaries? The bitspower 90 degree gave insufficient clearance for my primochill fittings, but the 90 rotaries give a little more clearance. It was quite close before so it might make it, but its a risk.


I've used plenty of male-male rotaries, they are great.


----------



## WeirdHarold

I've read and watched all kinds of reviews and system builds in all kinds of different sites etc. and almost everyone uses and recommends the Bitspower fittings. On my last build I ordered 5 EK fittings - three 45's and two 90's - all five of them out of the package felt very poorly made and very loose at the rotary junction between the two halves and all five of them leaked. So because of that experience I won't be ordering anymore EK fittings, I ordered the XSPC Black Chrome rotary fitting to replace the EK's and they've worked great! So I ultimately think it all has to do with your own personal experiences in the end.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I have used or tested perhaps 40-50 units of 90 or 45 degrees from bitspower and only one had a leak; And you can tell was a defect straight from the factory sealed bag since the junction between the fitting and rotary base was odd and stiff. Can you point the reports you are referring to? In any case you might try the EK rotaries. They are quite good and comes in two styles (AF and CSQ), one more similar to bitspower and the other one with flat heads.


Found one of the places i read a number of nasty reports about bitspower rotaries, OCN too.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1469851/leaking-bitspower-90-deg-rotary-elbows-what-to-do/0_100

Still makes me quite nervous. But i dont really have a choice with some of the ways my loop is going. And honestly these non-rotaries dont make much sense to me. When i tighten them down wherever they end up pointing is where you have to point them because of where the threading starts it will only point to one place every time. Probably should have realized that before i ordered but hindsights 20-20.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Working on new build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it's a lot like my main but it's better. I think I've painted myself into a corner though. Don't know how I'll plumb the vrm block. Getting the rad in push pull at the top required some discomfort and expletives.
> 
> Anyone have suggestions on routing order?


You could plumb it exactly like mine, run the GPUs in parallel. CPU to RAM, RAM to front rad.


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My baby is all done. I had so much fun building it. Spent around $800 just for the watercooling parts, and I don't regret ANYTHING. The picture is about a month old, so the bubbles in the res are gone, and I topped it off. I just purchased a dust filer off ebay so I can change the rear exhaust to an intake, giving fresh air to the RX360. I also swapped the front "pull" fans to "push," so that improved water temps by about a degree or 2. I have all the parts listed in my SIG. Tell me what you all think


your rig is ver interesting to me because of hardware similarities, same case, also dual gpus. do you think, could you measure it for me, the space that is left between the top RX with fans and bottom sittin EX ? if we lets say remove the 5,25 bay, could we fit another rx360 in front? cant tell from the pics, it looks plausible but have no idea.


----------



## Rahldrac

Can anybody post any pictures of their EK fittings with tubes? I'm in the process of installing my first loop. Just want to see the gap left between the outer and inner ring?

Edit:
Intended to post this in the EK club thread, but you are all very welcome to answer anyway!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Can anybody post any pictures of their EK fittings with tubes? I'm in the process of installing my first loop. Just want to see the gap left between the outer and inner ring?
> 
> Edit:
> Intended to post this in the EK club thread, but you are all very welcome to answer anyway!


Here you go:


----------



## TONSCHUH

... translated via Chrome:
Quote:


> Noiseblocker Poole: Several bionic 140 mm fan planned
> 
> MARK COAT
> author
> 02/02/2015 at 08:30 clock
> In a press release Noiseblocker has announced plans to bring several 140 mm models of Poole fan series on the market. Only was a community survey needed for this decision, including the PCGHX forum such were demanded from the very beginning. An exact publication date not yet known manufacturers.
> 
> Over two years, it is now time since Noiseblocker with the Poole-series, the first fan in the "bionic" Design has put on the market . Even then demanded, among other things, our community PCGHX corresponding models with a diameter of 140 mm, this wish was fulfilled however as yet. Only one created by Noiseblocker community survey late last year has brought the realization that a 140-Poole-fans should be offered. Almost equally be explanations were required at different rotational speeds, so Noiseblocker directly want to bring more to the market, including models with fixed speeds and PWM-controlled. An exact publication date, the manufacturer, meanwhile, not to offer, "in any case, the new fan in the first half but should come on the market," says the press release.
> 
> The special feature of the new fan is the self-contained loop rotor whose design does not require a fan blade tips. This avoids the otherwise arising in these strong eddy, which are the primary source of noise in modern silent fans. The idea goes back to studies have indicated that fanned the wing tips of many bird species. These produce rather large single vortex several small ones that offer low air resistance overall. Finally, through several intermediate steps and taking advantage of successive "wings" of a fan these vortices source could be eliminated. In addition, waving a revised "Nano-SLI" bearings for near silent operation.


Noiseblocker Eloop: Mehrere bionische 140-mm-Lüfter geplant

NB-eLoop® Series 120mm


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Here you go:


Thanks for your reply!

Mine does seem to fit a bit worse than yours. And I am afraid of tightening them too much, since I have heard that it's bad, especially into the VGA serial block.
Do you usually use any pliers or anything to tighten them? I have heard about hand tightening them, then 1/4 of a turn with pliers?
Both the tube and the fittings are suppose to be for 10/13 measurements.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Thanks for your reply!
> 
> Mine does seem to fit a bit worse than yours. And I am afraid of tightening them too much, since I have heard that it's bad, especially into the VGA serial block.
> Do you usually use any pliers or anything to tighten them? I have heard about hand tightening them, then 1/4 of a turn with pliers?
> Both the tube and the fittings are suppose to be for 10/13 measurements.


All my fittings are hand tightened, just tighten them down to the point where they're nice and snug. I would never recommend using tools on fittings in danger of stripping threads or cracking acrylic.

Just make sure to leak test.


----------



## Rahldrac

I will leak test tomorrow, just want to "be as safe as possible", Would have been fun to not have to tear it down again


----------



## VSG

140mm eLoops, eh? About time. I still chuckled at the translation reversing eLoop to Poole.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Working on new build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it's a lot like my main but it's better. I think I've painted myself into a corner though. Don't know how I'll plumb the vrm block. Getting the rad in push pull at the top required some discomfort and expletives.
> 
> Anyone have suggestions on routing order?




Thats the best Idea I've got, I've yet to watercool ram though.

TCO





Couple Teasers too If yall want to pop in the log.


----------



## X-Nine

Boy, Newegg sure knows how to make a deal: http://m.newegg.com/Product?itemNumber=9SIA5JP2J11774&Keyword=bitspower


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Boy, Newegg sure knows how to make a deal: http://m.newegg.com/Product?itemNumber=9SIA5JP2J11774&Keyword=bitspower


I couldn't get that link to show a product, but I assume you are referring to the $999.99 Crystal link tube.


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Boy, Newegg sure knows how to make a deal: http://m.newegg.com/Product?itemNumber=9SIA5JP2J11774&Keyword=bitspower


yea 1k for rigid tube fitting lol


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Boy, Newegg sure knows how to make a deal: http://m.newegg.com/Product?itemNumber=9SIA5JP2J11774&Keyword=bitspower
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't get that link to show a product, but I assume you are referring to the $999.99 Crystal link tube.
Click to expand...

Yeah. Apparently it's so good it's worth 999.99.... I'll take 2, good sir!


----------



## inedenimadam

quick sanity check please
(missing/mismatched parts):

for a 5820k


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Thanks for your reply!
> 
> Mine does seem to fit a bit worse than yours. And I am afraid of tightening them too much, since I have heard that it's bad, especially into the VGA serial block.
> Do you usually use any pliers or anything to tighten them? I have heard about hand tightening them, then 1/4 of a turn with pliers?
> Both the tube and the fittings are suppose to be for 10/13 measurements.
> 
> 
> 
> All my fittings are hand tightened, just tighten them down to the point where they're nice and snug. I would never recommend using tools on fittings in danger of stripping threads or cracking acrylic.
> 
> Just make sure to leak test.
Click to expand...

+1 this.

If I have a compression fitting screw down all the way to the base by hand then I won't trust it fits my tube correctly. What I want need to see is a gap left between the compression collar and the base of the fitting when it is screwed down good and hand tight.

See here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=mn3Pdxx3nNo#t=122

That's what tells me that it is gripping the tube correctly forming a tight seal, and hand tight is all I ever go with, although I do always wear cut-resistant coated palm work gloves whenever working in my case, especially when tightening compressions, which lets me get them tighter than I ever could with just my bare hands and protects my fingers from getting torn up in the process, and they keep my fingerprints off of everything.

edit: And when it comes to leak testing, this is how it's done.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> quick sanity check please
> (missing/mismatched parts):
> 
> for a 5820k


Looks about right to me.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> You could plumb it exactly like mine, run the GPUs in parallel. CPU to RAM, RAM to front rad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the best Idea I've got, I've yet to watercool ram though.


Thanks for the r3plys guys! Trying to decide if I want to also use a bay res for something to look at from the front. That will really make the tubing difficult though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Thanks for the r3plys guys! Trying to decide if I want to also use a bay res for something to look at from the front. That will really make the tubing difficult though.


Yea A bay res would through a wrench in the situation for sure.

The Cautious One


----------



## Yungbenny911

Anyone have experience on a bay res and tube res in a single loop? I'm thinking of doing it just for looks







. Would a single pump suffice if i can make sure the tube res is filled to the brim? Or would i need another small pump?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Anyone have experience on a bay res and tube res in a single loop? I'm thinking of doing it just for looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Would a single pump suffice if i can make sure the tube res is filled to the brim? Or would i need another small pump?


Whichever one feeds the other, will fill up, and wont cause any issues. In theory it should slow the gradual rise of water temps, without really adding any restriction overhead if gravity is feeding the lower res.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Whichever one feeds the other, will fill up, and wont cause any issues. In theory it should slow the gradual rise of water temps, without really adding any restriction overhead if gravity is feeding the lower res.


I was just worried about how the flow rate would be impacted, and i don't want to overwork my current pump.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... translated via Chrome:
> Noiseblocker Eloop: Mehrere bionische 140-mm-Lüfter geplant
> 
> NB-eLoop® Series 120mm


Finally! Definitely can't wait for some 140mm eLoops. So far I been loving my 120mm eLoops. Hmmmm, I may see if I can't smack two huge radiators in the planed pedestal mod for my Haf X.







Must have more rads and fans! (Though I really need to start saving up to get parts for my two Splashes)


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea A bay res would through a wrench in the situation for sure.
> 
> The Cautious One


It fits =P

Edit: the bay res fits... But I can't get a fitting onto the vrm block top port. Took the fans off the bottom of the rad . need about 5mm more space...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea A bay res would through a wrench in the situation for sure.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fits =P
> 
> Edit: the bay res fits... But I can't get a fitting onto the vrm block top port. Took the fans off the bottom of the rad . need about 5mm more space...
Click to expand...

Are you saying that you can't get a fitting in, even with the fans removed ?

Or it fits with the fan(s) removed?

You could check out the Bitspower blocks for that board . . looks like a sort of mono block setup with the ports in the CPU area.

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

Oh there's plenty of room with the fans removed.

It's definitely less friendly than a monoblock. But it will work =)


----------



## bundymania




----------



## mercinator16

So I just installed an ek gtx 980 block and backplate today. Afterward i attempted to take off the backplate to see if I was getting a good contact and as I was doing so I didn't notice that the standoffs on the block were also unscrewing which led to me hearing a snap, does EK replace GPUs or am I out of luck?

Also several screws have broken off in my attempt to unscrew them.


----------



## sperson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> So I just installed an ek gtx 980 block and backplate today. Afterward i attempted to take off the backplate to see if I was getting a good contact and as I was doing so I didn't notice that the standoffs on the block were also unscrewing which led to me hearing a snap, does EK replace GPUs or am I out of luck?
> 
> Also several screws have broken off in my attempt to unscrew them.


Sorry to say i doubt they will replace a gpu since you are doing it at your own risk


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> So I just installed an ek gtx 980 block and backplate today. Afterward i attempted to take off the backplate to see if I was getting a good contact and as I was doing so I didn't notice that the standoffs on the block were also unscrewing which led to me hearing a snap, does EK replace GPUs or am I out of luck?
> 
> Also several screws have broken off in my attempt to unscrew them.


Whoa...what? You wanted to check if your back plate was getting good contact? And then your screws broke and your card snapped?

I am not entirely sure how to approach this...

got pics?


----------



## mercinator16

I can't even remove the block at this point, the standoffs unscrew no matter what I do.


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Whoa...what? You wanted to check if your back plate was getting good contact? And then your screws broke and your card snapped?
> 
> I am not entirely sure how to approach this...
> 
> got pics?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Practicing some bends, realized I need to find a better insert than the tube I was using







but not bad for a first go. .

and painted my EX 360 Rad


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> I can't even remove the block at this point, the standoffs unscrew no matter what I do.


There should be a small gap, you can probably get a needle nose pliers in there to hold the standoff while you unscrew.

Sorry to hear that happened, pretty messed up. But in the PC building and especially water cooling area i've learned that its my responsibility to know just about everything that im doing and not the companies item i bought to safeguard me from (unfortunately often do to their stupid lack of foresight). Though im thankful for your report as i just got my EK 970 waterblocks and backplates on and this is now one more thing i can keep in mind.


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> There should be a small gap, you can probably get a needle nose pliers in there to hold the standoff while you unscrew.
> 
> Sorry to hear that happened, pretty messed up. But in the PC building and especially water cooling area i've learned that its my responsibility to know just about everything that im doing and not the companies item i bought to safeguard me from (unfortunately often do to their stupid lack of foresight). Though im thankful for your report as i just got my EK 970 waterblocks and backplates on and this is now one more thing i can keep in mind.


I don't think I have a pair that are thin enough to fit between the block and PCB.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> So I just installed an ek gtx 980 block and backplate today. Afterward i attempted to take off the backplate to see if I was getting a good contact and as I was doing so I didn't notice that the standoffs on the block were also unscrewing which led to me hearing a snap, does EK replace GPUs or am I out of luck?
> 
> Also several screws have broken off in my attempt to unscrew them.


I've stripped out a screw from an ek block that I hadn't even installed-came from the factory over tightened and they said no rma, but you've over tightened those considerably for them to actually snap the pcb, if that's even possible. The snap might have been the screw decoupling from itself. At any rate, tension is relative and with these kinds of things it's critical not to test boundaries and just use light tightening. I learned that the hard way on my 295x2 block which is permanently attached to my 295x2.


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I've stripped out a screw from an ek block that I hadn't even installed-came from the factory over tightened and they said no rma, but you've over tightened those considerably for them to actually snap the pcb, if that's even possible. The snap might have been the screw decoupling from itself. At any rate, tension is relative and with these kinds of things it's critical not to test boundaries and just use light tightening. I learned that the hard way on my 295x2 block which is permanently attached to my 295x2.


The screws didn't snap it,the standoffs that uncrewed with it did.

I tightened it the same way with the 780 ti classy block and had no problems.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> The screws didn't snap it,the standoffs that uncrewed with it did.
> 
> I tightened it the same way with the 780 ti classy block and had no problems.


Why do you think the standoffs unscrewed along with what was in them? Too tight. You can do this with motherboards too. Overtighten motherboard screws and you risk having the standoff unscrewing from the case and then you have to hold the standoff with pliers to decouple it from the over tightened screw.


----------



## Bluemustang

So just to get this out there, how tight is too tight? I tried to be careful but at the same time give sufficient tightening. I like to screw mine down until there's some resistance then stop when its not easily turning anymore and maybe add another 1/8 turn or so. Too much or? I tested the hex screws on the acrylic side of my ek gpu block as well and some of them were quite loose, i used the same method on those.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, did you just have one side pour into the rad from the faucet?


----------



## mercinator16

Does anyone know how to remove a stripped screw without the use of powertools?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup glad I made a Rev ATX out of my C70, alot more beneficial room for a 360 on the bottom of the case. This should allow for full air flow through the 360







Just need to cut out for the window and use what I cut out and rivet it to the opposing side (should give it a better look as well)


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Nice, did you just have one side pour into the rad from the faucet?


Yep


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> So just to get this out there, how tight is too tight? I tried to be careful but at the same time give sufficient tightening. I like to screw mine down until there's some resistance then stop when its not easily turning anymore and maybe add another 1/8 turn or so. Too much or? I tested the hex screws on the acrylic side of my ek gpu block as well and some of them were quite loose, i used the same method on those.


After twisting off the cap from the shaft of an aquacomputer screw-The screws that go directly around the die are the ones I give "tension" too. All other screws I barely tighten. Just enough to make contact mostly.


----------



## mercinator16

Does EK sell standoffs?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Practicing some bends, realized I need to find a better insert than the tube I was using
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but not bad for a first go. .


Looking slick there, Mr Baggins!


----------



## pc-illiterate

i agree with this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Looking slick there, Mr Baggins!


about this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yup glad I made a Rev ATX out of my C70, alot more beneficial room for a 360 on the bottom of the case. This should allow for full air flow through the 360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to cut out for the window and use what I cut out and rivet it to the opposing side (should give it a better look as well)


thats beautiful


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thank you, had to at least get the tower ready for me to start installing the loop at least, just glad to have my mobo fixed under warranty rma


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Does anyone know how to remove a stripped screw without the use of powertools?


Show us the screw in question, I might be able to help.


----------



## electro2u

A screw that small I'd just drill it out with a dremel and a small bit. Getting a replacement set of standoffs from ek should be doable.


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> A screw that small I'd just drill it out with a dremel and a small bit. Getting a replacement set of standoffs from ek should be doable.


Do I contact EK directly or can I just email frozencpu about it? Better yet is there a EK rep on here that I can talk to?


----------



## mercinator16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Show us the screw in question, I might be able to help.


Its a standard screw that EK uses, its pretty much stripped to zero grip at this point.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Its a standard screw that EK uses, its pretty much stripped to zero grip at this point.


You Need to speak to @akira749

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

So looks like the OCN55 coupon code on PPC's isn't valid anymore?


----------



## emsj86

I believe it is but I've noticed only works on orders over. 100 for me at least


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hmm guess they changed the amount you could apply the code to then, I've used it in the past on orders under $30 (at least it would eliminate a small amount of the shipping cost or the state tax)


----------



## mercinator16

Yeah so I installed an EK block on my second 980 with caution and tightened the screws sparingly,and low and behold I got the same issue of standoffs unscrewing with the screw, so its not the product of over tightening.


----------



## ozzy1925

I see there is some plastic burr or hair stuck in one of my new gpu block .I tried compressed air ,water but they cant reach there.I dont want to disassembly because its a pain to put all there parts together Is there anything i can do?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I see there is some plastic burr or hair stuck in one of my new gpu block .I tried compressed air ,water but they cant reach there.I dont want to disassembly because its a pain to put all there parts together Is there anything i can do?


I would do a full disassemble. You might try to loose a bit some of the screws and then insert some thin object there (paper) to get rid of it...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mobo is back and mounted the new sessi block (too bad I couldn't get a MIPS but this will have to do lol )


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I would do a full disassemble. You might try to loose a bit some of the screws and then insert some thin object there (paper) to get rid of it...


well i did a full disassemble and manage to take it out but when i assembled back,i stripped one of the screw head


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> well i did a full disassemble and manage to take it out but when i assembled back,i stripped one of the screw head


Oh boy...Sorry to hear that. Try to find at a local store a substitute screw mate.


----------



## electro2u

Lot of stripping going on around here lately.

Look but don't touch.


----------



## ozzy1925

i send email to ek and they decide to strip for free of charge


----------



## Bluemustang

Cant believe all the negatives im hearing with EK lately. This stripping business and another thread where a few people have reported the .5mm thermal pads on the VRMs dont make contact with the block. Seems very poor QC from them. I just installed 2 EK 970 blocks and backplates so i hope i dont have these issues (still building rig so havnt powered it on yet).


----------



## electro2u

EK gave us Nickleplate-gate. Now Strip-gate


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Cant believe all the negatives im hearing with EK lately. This stripping business and another thread where a few people have reported the .5mm thermal pads on the VRMs dont make contact with the block. Seems very poor QC from them. I just installed 2 EK 970 blocks and backplates so i hope i dont have these issues (still building rig so havnt powered it on yet).


dont worry mate Ek is one of the best company in the watercooling market and they have the best customer service i have ever seen


----------



## snef

i just received one box with a lot of water cooling gear
DHL lost the box with the EK-Vulture,
hope they will find it soon

anyway some photos


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i just received one box with a lot of water cooling gear
> *DHL lost the box with the EK-Vulture,
> hope they will find it soon
> *
> anyway some photos
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Im sorry I thought you said.... they lost.....

Omg

TCO

EDIT: You're saying there is a chance that I could "accidentaly" get a free Case


----------



## inedenimadam

Pulled apart my 540 rig to pull out this PE for the x99 build tomorrow. I cant believe this thing was still dissipating heat. Looked good from the inside though


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> well i did a full disassemble and manage to take it out but when i assembled back,i stripped one of the screw head


Did you strip the thread or the head? If it was just the head, you could take a dremel and slot it out so you can use a regular flat head screw driver. I have to do this at work all the time when doing repairs


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol you can see the outline of the fans, it's always surprising to see how much dust can be collected in a short amount of time


----------



## TurboGLH

Pair of 290s, delidded 4770k, rx360s and gt ap-15s.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Made it into CPU Magazine this month with my latest rebuild. They botched the case description, but still doesn't put a damper on the excitement


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Made it into CPU Magazine this month with my latest rebuild. They botched the case description, but still doesn't put a damper on the excitement


Congtaz! Well deserved


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Congtaz! Well deserved


Thanks! Just too bad it wasn't the version before the rebuild. Still have so much to do on this one.


----------



## Menace2society

Hi all, just wanted to ask a question about cleaning a new radiator. I seen the Mayhem Blitz pro and I think $40 seem like a lot(to me). I was wondering if vinegar and distilled water is still considered effective, and if not is there any other (cost effective) method any one know of?

Thanks in advance
Menace


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menace2society*
> 
> Hi all, just wanted to ask a question about cleaning a new radiator. I seen the Mayhem Blitz pro and I think $40 seem like a lot(to me). I was wondering if vinegar and distilled water is still considered effective, and if not is there any other (cost effective) method any one know of?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Menace


What radiator mate? I mean brand and model. Use the hot water + shake drain repeat first. If you have an HWlabs that is about what you need. You can also use the faucet method with some warm water straight from the tap. That would clean most radiators just fine unless you have an Alphacool rad and want to run mayhems coolant like pastel... In any case I just saw that Mayhems is offering kits at a much less than 40 bucks. The simpler kit with 100 ml of each blitz is now around US$ 15. Just for your info I am not selling you anything or saying you need to use it.









http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-system-clone.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes Vinegar/Hot water is a solid way to go. Pretty sure there is no better way to flush a radiator that doesn't involve a 5 gallon bucket a pump and flexible tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Menace2society

Phobya 560 and Phobya 480 I hope that's not a bad thing LOL. If it is will vinegar and water work on them?

Thanks in advance Menace


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i just received one box with a lot of water cooling gear
> DHL lost the box with the EK-Vulture, ]


You too?

DPD have lost mine,been harassing them daily but no luck.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Pulled apart my 540 rig to pull out this PE for the x99 build tomorrow. I cant believe this thing was still dissipating heat. Looked good from the inside though


When I took apart my rig the end of last year my 240 rad looked far worse than that, it reminded me of the lint trap on a clothes dryer and it was still working


----------



## Bluemustang

Dust covers guys. Just tear up some panty hose


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Dust covers guys. Just tear up some panty hose


Oh trust me I'm using a dust filter this time


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Did you strip the thread or the head? If it was just the head, you could take a dremel and slot it out so you can use a regular flat head screw driver. I have to do this at work all the time when doing repairs


Just the head, i m searching for a new black m3x12 countersunkscrew without 10.9 logo


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You too?
> 
> DPD have lost mine,been harassing them daily but no luck.


2 case lost fo10 shipped, courier did nice work , loll

i call them every day but always same answer, we work hard to find it


----------



## mercinator16

So I decided to just put a screw into the block without installing and the moment it grabs it pulls the standoff with it. Is EK not applying some sort of locktite material to their standoffs?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 2 case lost fo10 shipped, courier did nice work , loll
> 
> i call them every day but always same answer, we work hard to find it


Will the build log start once you get them?


----------



## emsj86

yea or nay on the vinyal sticker I made and added. I'm not so sure about it. (On psu cover. My gamer handle)


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> yea or nay on the vinyal sticker I made and added. I'm not so sure about it. (On psu cover. My gamer handle)


I'm thinking nay. You have a nice clean looking look, no need to add that large of what I'd consider an "Aggressive" font.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i just received one box with a lot of water cooling gear
> DHL lost the box with the EK-Vulture, ]
> 
> 
> 
> You too?
> 
> DPD have lost mine,been harassing them daily but no luck.
Click to expand...

Considering how many are out in the wild so far, its almost hard to turn to conspiracy theory that both of you have had your cases lost by the shipping company.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I think the sticker looks like it was meant to be there. Looks good.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> yea or nay on the vinyal sticker I made and added. I'm not so sure about it. (On psu cover. My gamer handle)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm thinking nay. You have a nice clean looking look, no need to add that large of what I'd consider an "Aggressive" font.


I agree with @guitarhero23. But, I'm not really a fan of stickers, case badges, logo, etc to begin with. I feel like it takes away from the rest of the build.


----------



## emsj86

Yea I agree figure I try it out but now I m looming at it. I do t care for it much. I'm gonna scrap it


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/idIfogYTj

https://imageshack.com/i/idjGX1Lej

https://imageshack.com/i/pbDvBrH6j

After buying six different rads and various pumps/tops i've finally settled on two White HWlabs rads, time to get the R5 loop done!.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/idIfogYTj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/idjGX1Lej
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pbDvBrH6j
> 
> 
> 
> After buying six different rads and various pumps/tops i've finally settled on two White HWlabs rads, time to get the R5 loop done!.


OOOOOh Pretty


----------



## Menace2society

Phobya: are they know for having clean or dirty rads. Just bought two 560 and 480 wanted to know what I can expect.

thanks in advance; Menace


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menace2society*
> 
> Phobya: are they know for having clean or dirty rads. Just bought two 560 and 480 wanted to know what I can expect.
> 
> thanks in advance; Menace


Considering they are made by the same manufacturer as Aplhacool(at least to the best of my knowledge), they're probably going to be filthy.


----------



## Menace2society

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Considering they are made by the same manufacturer as Aplhacool(at least to the best of my knowledge), they're probably going to be filthy.


That's what I was afraid of.

Thanks; Menace


----------



## Qu1ckset

What do you guys think of the claims on the Radiator fins , could actually improve performance or marketing BS?


----------



## VSG

What do they mean by "fins touching all sides of liquid piping"? It's still only contacting at the top and bottom only of each tube channel right?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of the claims on the Radiator fins , could actually improve performance or marketing BS?


the only test I saw it it performed like any other AOI or even below some:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7738/closed-loop-aio-liquid-coolers/12

It seems more a marketing thing to me since I fail to see any substantial difference from the so called " other designs"...

edit - VSG is getting to the same point as I am...


----------



## emsj86

How I water cool at work. Water bottles that is.


----------



## VSG

The radiator is 45mm thick though (in the previous models anyway, not sure why they went back to the usual 25-27m thick rads here), not bad for an AIO. I can also give them props for the better build quality but in the end the fans on AIOs do more than the radiator itself.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of the claims on the Radiator fins , could actually improve performance or marketing BS?


Well, I dont know for sure, but nickel plated aluminum for the block seems like putting lipstick on a pig. As for the fin design, I dont know, looks suspect when in conjunction with the block being aluminium at the core. Better hope the plating is 100% perfect and never flakes or you will have issues.

Are those fins ribbed? Edit: looks like maybe they just stacked all the fins together and drilled holes...probably cheaper than bending


----------



## lowfat

Those painted HWLabs rads look good.


----------



## morencyam

I call marketing BS. They claim their radiator fin design is 40% more efficient, yet starts falling behind once there is more than a 100W heat load. Even falls behind a single 140mm AIO(CM Nepton 140XL) at 150W heat load while having a higher fan speed.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The radiator is 45mm thick though (in the previous models anyway, not sure why they went back to the usual 25-27m thick rads here), not bad for an AIO. I can also give them props for the better build quality but in the end the fans on AIOs do more than the radiator itself.


I'm getting this revision when it's released, but ya those fans will never be used in my application ugly in my opinion and I bet the performance is meh.

Product Page


----------



## morencyam

The fans kind of look like rebranded Swiftech Helix's


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The fans kind of look like rebranded Swiftech Helix's


You know, I was thinking the same thing.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the only test I saw it it performed like any other AOI or even below some:
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7738/closed-loop-aio-liquid-coolers/12
> 
> It seems more a marketing thing to me since I fail to see any substantial difference from the so called " other designs"...
> 
> edit - VSG is getting to the same point as I am...


On this new model they thickened the tubing and put a thinner rad so i have no idea if this will have better or worse performance then the original which used thinner tubes and thicker rad.

Buying this for looks mostly anyways and should perform better then my Current EVGA ACX CPU cooler , which is meh and hate the noise from the included fan!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The fans kind of look like rebranded Swiftech Helix's


Silverstone has a lot of fans themselves. This looks like an OEM version of the FN123 or FQ121.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menace2society*
> 
> Phobya: are they know for having clean or dirty rads. Just bought two 560 and 480 wanted to know what I can expect.
> 
> thanks in advance; Menace


Yeah, definitely flush those. I have a Phobya 200, compared to the HWLab rad that I flushed. It had a good bit that flushed out.


----------



## snef

Good news,

DHL call me this morning and she told me they found the package and its in transit to my area
i will believe her when if i sign for reception and the box is in good shape


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Good news,
> 
> DHL call me this morning and she told me they found the package and its in transit to my area
> i will believe her when if i sign for reception and the box is in good shape
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great news man, lets hope BNeg's gets found soon too.

Also, those Vardars, is it me or do they have a bit of a brownish tint?

Edit: messed up the quotes


----------



## VSG

Nah, grey/gray and black.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys wonder if you guys can help me find a pair of 120mm fans for push/pull setup, im trying to find a certain style frame as one of the fans will be visible in my build.

Im not liking the industrial look of the EK Vardar/ Noctua Redux design, looking for something like the Corair AF/SP (non ring)/ eLoops / Silverstone FQ/ Blacknoise Noiseblocker

Im currently running my Corsair AF120 quiet @800-950Rpm and my Silverstone [email protected] and this is a perfect level of acoustics, i don't even notice it, So if you guys could help me finding something around that range or quieter that would be perfect.

Frame also preferably black! PWM would be cool but not a must

The Cheap 92mm Evga fan that came with my ACX CPU cooler is the loudest component in my build when it hit 700-900Rpm Range, cant wait to replace it with a AIO..

Thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys wonder if you guys can help me find a pair of 120mm fans for push/pull setup, im trying to find a certain style frame as one of the fans will be visible in my build.
> 
> Im not liking the industrial look of the EK Vardar/ Noctua Redux design, looking for something like the Corair AF/SP (non ring)/ eLoops / Silverstone FQ/ Blacknoise Noiseblocker
> 
> Im currently running my Corsair AF120 quiet @800-950Rpm and my Silverstone [email protected] and this is a perfect level of acoustics, i don't even notice it, So if you guys could help me finding something around that range or quieter that would be perfect.
> 
> Frame also preferably black! PWM would be cool but not a must
> 
> The Cheap 92mm Evga fan that came with my ACX CPU cooler is the loudest component in my build when it hit 700-900Rpm Range, cant wait to replace it with a AIO..
> 
> Thanks


at that low rpm buy whatever fan have the looks you want really. Most would perform similarly (unless the fan is pretty bad like some I have...). What color you want the blades? Phanteks have some nice fans black frame and white blades. Parvrum re-branded alpenfhon are good ones too:

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/Alpenfohn-Wing-Boost-Plus-120mm-PWM-Fan-Pure-Edition.html


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> at that low rpm buy whatever fan have the looks you want really. Most would perform similarly (unless the fan is pretty bad like some I have...). What color you want the blades? Phanteks have some nice fans black frame and white blades. Parvrum re-branded alpenfhon are good ones too:
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/Alpenfohn-Wing-Boost-Plus-120mm-PWM-Fan-Pure-Edition.html


Not a fan of the Aloenfohn frame , and for blades I prefer something dark or clear I don't know why silverstone and phanteks love white so damn much!


----------



## fleetfeather

Phanteks offerings are bound to be a solid option.

I've got a pair of 140mm phanteks fans myself. SPCR scored them higher than Noctua's 140mm offerings in terms of temps:noise


----------



## Murder Inc

any thoughts about the cougar vortex? i bought them for my rads 'cause they fitted my build perfectly but i didn't really know much about how they performed as rad fans. they got them in black to


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> I don't think I have a pair that are thin enough to fit between the block and PCB.


Sounds like you need to get a small long jaw jewelers needle nose set.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

What do you guys think?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

In uv


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Hi all,

I'm pretty new to custom watercooling and completed this loop just before christmas. I'd previously dabbled in using AIO coolers and had both my CPU and GPU modded to take an Antec 620 cooler.

I'm really proud of how this loop turned out, and got a really good deal on the CPU block. Most parts sourced from Specialtech, and some others from Watercooling UK. Both as always provided fantastic service.


----------



## electro2u

Have a bunch of 16mm bitspower crystal link tubing in 500mm lengths... None of it fits my bitspower multilink fittings. Not even close really. It won't fit in my monsoon 16mm miter box either. Super annoyed. The monsoon tubing fits the multilink fittings like a glove. Very snug but easy enough to push in. I've sanded the crap out of the ends of the crystal link and it still won't fit.


----------



## Murder Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Have a bunch of 16mm bitspower crystal link tubing in 500mm lengths... None of it fits my bitspower multilink fittings. Not even close really. It won't fit in my monsoon 16mm miter box either. Super annoyed. The monsoon tubing fits the multilink fittings like a glove. Very snug but easy enough to push in. I've sanded the crap out of the ends of the crystal link and it still won't fit.


i had the same problem and decided to go with monsoon hardline tubing and fittings.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What do you guys think?


Nice rig! For next time I say try and pay attention to colors more because this one has white, black, purple, and yellow. The yellow is kind of the odd man out.

Sweet nonetheless!


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Nice rig! For next time I say try and pay attention to colors more because this one has white, black, purple, and yellow. The yellow is kind of the odd man out.
> 
> Sweet nonetheless!


Thanks accually have meyhems sunshine yellow coolant on the way, monsoon white and black fittings and a 24 pin and 2 8 pin gpu extentions that are yellow purple black and white. Hoping it all comes together. It's really hard to find something to go with yellow so you kind of have to offset it with a few other small accents. Will post when it's really done I accually have another build in the works I have every piece but the cpu that usps lost...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter




----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Nice rig! For next time I say try and pay attention to colors more because this one has white, black, purple, and yellow. The yellow is kind of the odd man out.
> 
> Sweet nonetheless!


This is what I would say too, color management always take more special attention with every added color. You still pulled this rig off very well. The tube routing and component placement make sense. Function meets form here and it looks good







.

I think I've seen you around on reddit some, welcome to the forums here







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm pretty new to custom watercooling and completed this loop just before christmas. I'd previously dabbled in using AIO coolers and had both my CPU and GPU modded to take an Antec 620 cooler.
> 
> I'm really proud of how this loop turned out, and got a really good deal on the CPU block. Most parts sourced from Specialtech, and some others from Watercooling UK. Both as always provided fantastic service.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Solid work! Did you modify the PSU cover for those tubing pass throughs?


----------



## Alex132

Yellow/Purple compliment each other. However white may be hard to pull off in that scenario as the yellow/purple have a very high contrast to each other.

Personally I would have had black as the tertiary background color only. Leaving yellow/purple to stand out more.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Why thank you sir. Wait until the bitspower 90s and stuff come in the tubing runs will be alot shorter and also adding my ek ram block in soon if I can find some dominator gt ram. Would trade my platinum but...no one seems to have any gts. I can't wait till I accually get it completely done in my eyes but that will take alot more time and money.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> This is what I would say too, color management always take more special attention with every added color. You still pulled this rig off very well. The tube routing and component placement make sense. Function meets form here and it looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I think I've seen you around on reddit some, welcome to the forums here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Solid work! Did you modify the PSU cover for those tubing pass throughs?


Thanks and yep I'm all over reddit. Probably too much.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> This is what I would say too, color management always take more special attention with every added color. You still pulled this rig off very well. The tube routing and component placement make sense. Function meets form here and it looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I think I've seen you around on reddit some, welcome to the forums here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Solid work! Did you modify the PSU cover for those tubing pass throughs?


haha yea I'm on reddit


----------



## Yey09

*What do you think cause this and where do you think this came from?*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








*As you can see here, it eats through the nickel plating*





*and also to the stainless steel top cover.*




After three months of use from fresh install of the EK FC GTX770 DCII GPU Block together with the EK Bay Spin reservoir and Tygon E-1000 (Plasticizer Free) Tubing.

I'm using Distilled water btw.


----------



## Pimphare

Ouch! Do you have aluminum in your loop somewhere? Looks like a bad case of chemical reaction from mixed metals. You also might want to look into using a corrosion inhibitor solution along with the distilled water.


----------



## ElCid

Galvanic corrosion. I'd blame the water for sure.

It is strongly adviced by EK and other brands to use premix liquids with corrosion inhibitors, specially in nickel plated blocks: EK Staining test on Nickel Plated surfaces


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> *What do you think cause this and where do you think this came from?*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *As you can see here, it eats through the nickel plating*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *and also to the stainless steel top cover.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After three months of use from fresh install of the EK FC GTX770 DCII GPU Block together with the EK Bay Spin reservoir and Tygon E-1000 (Plasticizer Free) Tubing.
> 
> I'm using Distilled water btw.


looks like you have aluminum somewhere...do you by any chance have a asus 87 mobo?


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Ouch! Do you have aluminum in your loop somewhere? Looks like a bad case of chemical reaction from mixed metals. You also might want to look into using a corrosion inhibitor solution along with the distilled water.


Im using the same loop for over 6 months till I add the gpu block and reservoir and change from E-3603 to E-1000 tubes and I forgot I have also put a Monsoon Anti-Microbial (Silver) Plug and Koolance Brass Inline Drain Fitting.

All of my compression fittings are Brass from Phobya.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> holy **** man....looks like you have aluminum somewhere...do you by any chance have a asus 87 mobo?


Z97 Sabertooth Mk. 1


----------



## ElCid

Silver dramatically increases risk of galvanic corrosion as it ionizes water and thus makes it very conductive.

It seems galvanic corrosion between steel and nickel plated copper.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Galvanic corrosion. I'd blame the water for sure.
> 
> It is strongly adviced by EK and other brands to use premix liquids with corrosion inhibitors, specially in nickel plated blocks: EK Staining test on Nickel Plated surfaces


From where Im located at, nobody sells here anything for custom loops. All the shops here sells AIO cooler, I can't order anything liquid online.

What is your advice on corrosion inhibitor additive?


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Silver dramatically increases risk of galvanic corrosion as it ionizes water and thus makes it very conductive.
> 
> It seems galvanic corrosion between steel and nickel plated copper.


what do you meen steel and nickel plated copper? from the GPU block itself? it consist of the copper gpu block with nickel coating and the top half cover of stainless steel.


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> from the GPU block itself? it consist of the copper gpu block with nickel coating and the top half cover of stainless steel.


Exactly.


----------



## Freaxy

Did you only use distilled water without any additives?
Might want to look into a corrosion blocker there.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys wonder if you guys can help me find a pair of 120mm fans for push/pull setup, im trying to find a certain style frame as one of the fans will be visible in my build.
> 
> Im not liking the industrial look of the EK Vardar/ Noctua Redux design, looking for something like the Corair AF/SP (non ring)/ eLoops / Silverstone FQ/ Blacknoise Noiseblocker
> 
> Im currently running my Corsair AF120 quiet @800-950Rpm and my Silverstone [email protected] and this is a perfect level of acoustics, i don't even notice it, So if you guys could help me finding something around that range or quieter that would be perfect.
> 
> Frame also preferably black! PWM would be cool but not a must
> 
> The Cheap 92mm Evga fan that came with my ACX CPU cooler is the loudest component in my build when it hit 700-900Rpm Range, cant wait to replace it with a AIO..
> 
> Thanks


Perhaps this one will tickle your fancy. .

http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail_print/cooling/jetflo/jetflo-120.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

@Yey09
Glycol is usually available anywhere but most manufacturers moved away from it recently in developing coolants because it can be aggressive towards acrylic and other materials (alcohol) is toxic if ingested. But you still find glycol based coolant available and you might consider using it (mixing with DI) since it is a corrosion inhibitor.

*edit - Thank you Bryan @BramSLI1 and @WiSK for correcting me*


----------



## Alex132

Between steel+nickel seems very unlikely. People run silver in their loops just fine with stainless steel (CPU waterjet) and nickel all the time.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Did you only use distilled water without any additives?
> Might want to look into a corrosion blocker there.


just plain DI only.

WHat kind of corrosion blocker would you suggest?

Im gonna buy soon a GPU block for my 780 and 970 I dont want this to happen again.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Perhaps this one will tickle your fancy. .
> 
> http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail_print/cooling/jetflo/jetflo-120.html


I heard from I think James Walt that these were loud fans but good performers


----------



## ElCid

Unlikely yes, but not impossible. It is clear from the photos that the stainless steel piece of the block has marks of corrosion, material that is missing, so it has been affected.

Also, there are like hundreds, if not more, of stainless steel types with different alloys.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Glycol is usually available anywhere but most manufacturers moved away from it recently in developing coolants. But you still find glycol based coolant available and you might consider using it (mixing with DI).


Glycol like what is on radiator coolant for cars?


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> Unlikely yes, but not impossible. It is clear from the photos that the stainless steel piece of the block has marks of corrosion, material that is missing, so it has been affected.
> 
> Also, there are like hundreds, if not more, of stainless steel types with different alloys.


the SS cover has deep corrosion


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> WHat kind of corrosion blocker would you suggest?


I'd go for some specific concentrate or premix like Mayhems XT-1, X1, Pastel, or even automotive coolant.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> just plain DI only.
> 
> WHat kind of corrosion blocker would you suggest?
> 
> Im gonna buy soon a GPU block for my 780 and 970 I dont want this to happen again.


I personally use feser one corrosion blocker, but I read you can't find any water cooling stores in your area and shipping fluids might give problems.
Maybe try an automotive store. Corrosion blockers are also being used in car cooling liquids, just not sure if it gives the water any color though.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I personally use feser one corrosion blocker, but I read you can't find any water cooling stores in your area and shipping fluids might give problems.
> Maybe try an automotive store. Corrosion blockers are also being used in car cooling liquids, just not sure if it gives the water any color though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElCid*
> 
> I'd go for some specific concentrate or premix like Mayhems XT-1, X1, Pastel, or even automotive coolant.


Can I use the 50:50 premix coolant for cars?

I see those coolant at True Value and Ace Hardware.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Glycol like what is on radiator coolant for cars?


exactly. But before you buy a whole bottle of it and put it in your loop try to find info on the proper mixing ratio for PC applications. Swiftech Hydrix is glycol based for example:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14524/ex-liq-195/Swiftech_Green_UV_Reactive_HydrX_PM_Coolant_-_Premix_16_fl_oz.html?tl=g30c337s891&id=3CunWUFm&mv_pc=960

Are you sure you can not get it from abroad a bottle or two of pastel concentrate or any other coolant? If not glycol/car coolants might be a good alternative.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> exactly. But before you buy a whole bottle of it and put it in your loop try to find info on the proper mixing ratio for PC applications. Swiftech Hydrix is glycol based for example:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14524/ex-liq-195/Swiftech_Green_UV_Reactive_HydrX_PM_Coolant_-_Premix_16_fl_oz.html?tl=g30c337s891&id=3CunWUFm&mv_pc=960
> 
> Are you sure you can not get it from abroad a bottle or two of pastel concentrate or any other coolant? If not glycol/car coolants might be a good alternative.


honestly im not sure because I never tried ordering anything liquid online.

I'll try order one bottle online to see if it will go thru.

Anyway, Im down to a CPU block only since I sold the 770 and the block last month. I might order the coolant together with the 780 and 970 block when it's already available on FCPU but on a separate shipment.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> exactly. But before you buy a whole bottle of it and put it in your loop try to find info on the proper mixing ratio for PC applications. Swiftech Hydrix is glycol based for example:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14524/ex-liq-195/Swiftech_Green_UV_Reactive_HydrX_PM_Coolant_-_Premix_16_fl_oz.html?tl=g30c337s891&id=3CunWUFm&mv_pc=960
> 
> Are you sure you can not get it from abroad a bottle or two of pastel concentrate or any other coolant? If not glycol/car coolants might be a good alternative.


This is only an educated guess, but from working in the automotive field : if you were going to use anti-freeze for a corrosion inhibitor in a water cooling loop I don't think you'd need more than maybe an ounce at most. The reason for the 50/50 mix in a car radiator is 2 fold, one it lowers the freezing point of the water in the cooling system and two it acts both as an anti corrosive and lubricant for the water pump. I don't think you'd need much in a cooling loop if your goal is to simply gain the anti corrosive attributes. Again just an educated guess and I have heard of others using it in their loops.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> honestly im not sure because I never tried ordering anything liquid online.
> 
> I'll try order one bottle online to see if it will go thru.
> 
> Anyway, Im down to a CPU block only since I sold the 770 and the block last month. I might order the coolant together with the 780 and 970 block when it's already available on FCPU but on a separate shipment.


it seems FZCPU ships to Philippines using still the cheapest USPS option. It might me cost effectively to you. US$7 shipping for a bottle or two of pastel is not a bad deal for shipping and although can take weeks to get it to you it will eventually reach you...


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I personally use feser one corrosion blocker, but I read you can't find any water cooling stores in your area and shipping fluids might give problems.
> Maybe try an automotive store. Corrosion blockers are also being used in car cooling liquids, just not sure if it gives the water any color though.


are you refering to this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html?tl=g30c337


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it seems FZCPU ships to Philippines using still the cheapest USPS option. It might me cost effectively to you. US$7 shipping for a bottle or two of pastel is not a bad deal for shipping and although can take weeks to get it to you it will eventually reach you...


Actually im not in the PH at the moment, Im working here at Kuwait.

Im going to order one just to see if it will go thru.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> This is only an educated guess, but from working in the automotive field : if you were going to use anti-freeze for a corrosion inhibitor in a water cooling loop I don't think you'd need more than maybe an ounce at most. The reason for the 50/50 mix in a car radiator is 2 fold, one it lowers the freezing point of the water in the cooling system and two it acts both as an anti corrosive and lubricant for the water pump. I don't think you'd need much in a cooling loop if your goal is to simply gain the anti corrosive attributes. Again just an educated guess and I have heard of others using it in their loops.


I've read that glycol is not good for rubber and acrylc, my blocks, reservoir and pump top are all acrylic. what now?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I heard from I think James Walt that these were loud fans but good performers


I believe you're right. Just something I've found aesthetically pleasing and wanted to share with you. Maybe @Jameswalt1 can chime in with his review of the cooler master jetflo fans.

Here's another option:

Noiseblocker multiframe

They're a bit pricey coming in around $22-23 US dollars.

http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/noiseblocker-it-fans/nb-multiframe-series/120x120x25mm.php


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> are you refering to this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html?tl=g30c337


Yeah that's the one I use.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I believe you're right. Just something I've found aesthetically pleasing and wanted to share with you. Maybe @Jameswalt1 can chime in with his review of the cooler master jetflo fans.
> 
> Here's another option:
> 
> Noiseblocker multiframe
> 
> They're a bit pricey coming in around $22-23 US dollars.
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/noiseblocker-it-fans/nb-multiframe-series/120x120x25mm.php


I actually really like them and is one the fans I listed but from the specs it doesn't like it was designed for rads as the static pressure seems low.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Yeah that's the one I use.


too bad they're out of stock


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> I've read that glycol is not good for rubber and acrylc, my blocks, reservoir and pump top are all acrylic. what now?


Well I imagine that it would be damaging is some ways as it is at it's heart an alcohol.

*LINK*

My question would be, at such a low ratio of mixture to the water how damaging would it be?


----------



## WiSK

Glycol is to alcohol, as an aardvark is to a tiger.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Glycol is to alcohol, as an aardvark is to a tiger.


Okay let me be more specific - Glycol is an organic compound belonging to the alcohol family! Click the link I put in my last post and read


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> holy **** man....looks like you have aluminum somewhere...do you by any chance have a asus 87 mobo?


I have that board (Maximus VI Formula), it's not a concern as the block is *annodized* aluminum. Just wanted to mention it because it seems to come up from time to time still.

As mentioned later in the thread, though, poster doesn't have that board.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I have that board (Maximus VI Formula), it's not a concern as the block is *annodized* aluminum. Just wanted to mention it because it seems to come up from time to time still.
> 
> As mentioned later in the thread, though, poster doesn't have that board.


I also Have the VI Formula and am using the Built in Mosfet cooler. I have yet to break down the system and check the fluid. Im using the EK Pastel White Coolant (Mixed with a ton of Distilled Water. )

The Cautious ONe


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I also Have the VI Formula and am using the Built in Mosfet cooler. I have yet to break down the system and check the fluid. Im using the EK Pastel White Coolant (Mixed with a ton of Distilled Water. )
> 
> The Cautious ONe


When I broke it down at the beginning of last month to switch everything to the SMA8 mine was as pristine as when I got it, and I ran it on straight distilled water the first 4 months I had it. The pastel coolants from EK and Mayhems have corrosion blockers in them, so







for the extra layer of security.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay let me be more specific - Glycol is an organic compound belonging to the alcohol family! Click the link I put in my last post and read


Yes, and an aardvark is similar to a tiger in that they are both members of the mammals family.

Chemicals from the same family do not necessarily share similar properties

Ethyleen and propylene glycol used in antifreeze are not damaging to acrylic.

http://www.holophane.com/hlp_library/brochures/HL-2445.pdf


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> When I broke it down at the beginning of last month to switch everything to the SMA8 mine was as pristine as when I got it, and I ran it on straight distilled the first 4 months I had it. The pastel coolants from EK and Mayhems have corrosion blockers in them, so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for the extra layer of security.


Excellent. I don't want to tear the computer apart but I will need to revamp my Loop Lmao. I was still learning a lot when It was built.



My Drain port is... .well a piece of tube and a stop plug rigged to it. LMao. Yea......

Ps: If you look at the line going from the bottom of the GPU to the Res I forgot I already had a fitting in place so there are two back to back. One Doesn't do anything (The Rims Just keep Spinning Baby







)


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Excellent. I don't want to tear the computer apart but I will need to revamp my Loop Lmao. I was still learning a lot when It was built.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Drain port is... .well a piece of tube and a stop plug rigged to it. LMao. Yea......


Hey it's still better than having to take a pair of scissors to a tube







.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Hey it's still better than having to take a pair of scissors to a tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


At the Time it was the Best Idea I gathered for no Money Lmao.

The Cautious One


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> At the Time it was the Best Idea I gathered for no Money Lmao.
> 
> The Cautious One


Yeah I've been there, and I know what you mean.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Yeah I've been there, and I know what you mean.


Ah Good! It was a hard idea to build another computer instead of perfecting the one I have Now Lmao.

TCO


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> just plain DI only.
> 
> WHat kind of corrosion blocker would you suggest?
> 
> Im gonna buy soon a GPU block for my 780 and 970 I dont want this to happen again.


pt nuke. But why can't you order coolant...if you ordered an ek block..ek sells coolant. This is pretty wierd still esspecially if you have the silver in there never seen suck a large reaction that didn't involve aluminum mixed with some other metal. What rads do you use?


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> pt nuke. But why can't you order coolant...if you ordered an ek block..ek sells coolant. This is pretty wierd still esspecially if you have the silver in there never seen suck a large reaction that didn't involve aluminum mixed with some other metal. What rads do you use?


Both PT nuke and silver are acting as biocides, so they stop organisms from growing in your loop.
They do nothing against corrosion however. For corrosion there are corrosion blocker, which are usually Glycol based substances.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> pt nuke. But why can't you order coolant...if you ordered an ek block..ek sells coolant. This is pretty wierd still esspecially if you have the silver in there never seen suck a large reaction that didn't involve aluminum mixed with some other metal. What rads do you use?


My rig is on my sig so I'm using a Black Ice GT Stealth rad.

What on my sig is what I have and 3 months ago I add the gpu block,reservoir, silver plug and e-1000 tubes. That's it.

I like plain water like what they said that plain di is the best to use rather than coolant, that's why I don't order any liquid.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I heard from I think James Walt that these were loud fans but good performers


Yeah, solid performance and amazing build quality but as far as noise goes, well, there's a reason "Jet" is in their name... Because that's what they sound like









I remember in the Parvum Titanfall build log I took a picture of 4 of them standing up, lit and running. It took forever for me to get all of them standing, they kept blowing themselves over. They'll take your finger off too.

I think in terms of aesthetics they are my favorite but the noise is too much. I would personally go with either the new EK fans, the Parvum fans, or the Noiseblocker Multiframes (as was mentioned).


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah, solid performance and amazing build quality but as far as noise goes, well, there's a reason "Jet" is in their name... Because that's what they sound like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember in the Parvum Titanfall build log I took a picture of 4 of them standing up, lit and running. It took forever for me to get all of them standing, they kept blowing themselves over. They'll take your finger off too.
> 
> I think in terms of aesthetics they are my favorite but the noise is too much. I would personally go with either the new EK fans, the Parvum fans, or the Noiseblocker Multiframes.


Sounds a little like the R4's from back in the day. I'm still running 8 of them in my build in push with Gentle Typhoons in pull on my two 480mm rads. With both R4's and GT's running at the same speed, the R4's are MUCH louder. Solid performers and I love the look, but very loud.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Sounds a little like the R4's from back in the day. I'm still running 8 of them in my build in push with Gentle Typhoons in pull on my two 480mm rads. With both R4's and GT's running at the same speed, the R4's are MUCH louder. Solid performers and I love the look, but very loud.


GT's are still probably the best noise to performance ratio fans. Recently ordered 17 of the 1850rpm ones from coolerguys to replace my Corsair SP120's, made my pc way quieter.
Both the sound at the same speed is lower on the GT's and because they perform a bit better they don't need to spin as fast as the SP120's.
They aren't the best in terms of aesthetics though.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> GT's are still probably the best noise to performance ratio fans. Recently ordered 17 of the 1850rpm ones from coolerguys to replace my Corsair SP120's, made my pc way quieter.
> Both the sound at the same speed is lower on the GT's and because they perform a bit better they don't need to spin as fast as the SP120's.
> They aren't the best in terms of aesthetics though.


I agree. Haven't tried the new EK fans, but from what I hear, they are close to GT's. And personally, I love the look of GT's. I like that industrial look and feel.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> I've read that glycol is not good for rubber and acrylc, my blocks, reservoir and pump top are all acrylic. what now?


I use automotive coolant but I have avoided acrylic in my loop but the sight window in the reservoir is acrylic.
everything has been okay for 2½ years no coolant change out but I run 33:67 glycol/water ratio.


----------



## WiSK

Swiftech hydrx uses like 3% ethylene glycol. EKoolant uses a similar percentage propylene glycol. More is unnecessary. Both companies also offer reservoirs and blocks with acrylic.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Swiftech hydrx uses like 3% ethylene glycol. EKoolant uses a similar percentage propylene glycol. More is unnecessary. Both companies also offer reservoirs and blocks with acrylic.


This is correct. We wouldn't use it if there were issues with acrylic.


----------



## Murder Inc

anyone with an aqualis reservoir that could get me the hole measurements for the support bracket or point me in the right direction?


----------



## feznz

I used EKoolant once it looked great at first but after about 5 months it had visually lost it's colour and looked very pale so I changed it out for a more stable automotive coolant. I don't believe in high maintenance custom loops.

then again AIO coolers have a good coolant to last a warranty period typically of 5 years
Also looking at the corsair technical specs they have a copper cooling plate with a aluminium radiator so it can be done with the right anticorrosive additives in the liquid.
http://www.corsair.com/es-es/hydro-series-h105-240mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler


----------



## Alex132

Does anyone else's D5 pump let out a feint high-pitched whine beyond ~50% load? It's my main reason for not running it above 50%. There is slight vibrations and such, but all dampened. It's mainly the high-pitched whine that annoys the hell out of me.

I can't capture it correct on audio - even with a cardioid microphone. It seems very high, like 16-17khz


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Does anyone else's D5 pump let out a feint high-pitched whine beyond ~50% load? It's my main reason for not running it above 50%. There is slight vibrations and such, but all dampened. It's mainly the high-pitched whine that annoys the hell out of me.
> 
> I can't capture it correct on audio - even with a cardioid microphone. It seems very high, like 16-17khz


Hmm, I don't think mine does, but not really sure if mine is at 50% or more. Since I left it at setting 3 or 4, I actually had to look at it to make sure it was running that first day...so crazy quite to me.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Does anyone else's D5 pump let out a feint high-pitched whine beyond ~50% load? It's my main reason for not running it above 50%. There is slight vibrations and such, but all dampened. It's mainly the high-pitched whine that annoys the hell out of me.
> 
> I can't capture it correct on audio - even with a cardioid microphone. It seems very high, like 16-17khz
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, I don't think mine does, but not really sure if mine is at 50% or more. Since I left it at setting 3 or 4, I actually had to look at it to make sure it was running that first day...so crazy quite to me.
Click to expand...

Without de-coupling my pump it vibrates a hell of a lot at 100%. I'd take each setting as 20% in the vario.

At 50% I can feel a slight vibration (about the same as my fans at 1200rpm).
At 60% the sound becomes very audible because of its high-pitch.
At 100% even more so. Vibrations are still the same as 50%.

It's not really a problem for me, as I won't run it above 45%. And the foam + rubber + foam decoupling I have works really well. Although ghetto.

I just wonder if it could be whine from the electronics in the pump - as it draws more load (like coil-whine almost?).


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Without de-coupling my pump it vibrates a hell of a lot at 100%. I'd take each setting as 20% in the vario.
> 
> At 50% I can feel a slight vibration (about the same as my fans at 1200rpm).
> At 60% the sound becomes very audible because of its high-pitch.
> At 100% even more so. Vibrations are still the same as 50%.
> 
> It's not really a problem for me, as I won't run it above 45%. And the foam + rubber + foam decoupling I have works really well. Although ghetto.
> 
> I just wonder if it could be whine from the electronics in the pump - as it draws more load (like coil-whine almost?).


Interesting though... whine from electronics in pump.. hmm.. coil whine.. yea it could be the exact same thing..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> When I broke it down at the beginning of last month to switch everything to the SMA8 mine was as pristine as when I got it, and I ran it on straight distilled the first 4 months I had it. The pastel coolants from EK and Mayhems have corrosion blockers in them, so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for the extra layer of security.
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent. I don't want to tear the computer apart but I will need to revamp my Loop Lmao. I was still learning a lot when It was built.
> 
> 
> 
> My Drain port is... .well a piece of tube and a stop plug rigged to it. LMao. Yea......
> 
> Ps: If you look at the line going from the bottom of the GPU to the Res I forgot I already had a fitting in place so there are two back to back. One Doesn't do anything (The Rims Just keep Spinning Baby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

I won't laugh about your drain setup. That's how I set mine up back when people relied on pulling a tube from the lowest point in their loop to drain. Now THAT is something I would lolol about. Now that I'm torn down for tube/acrylic change over I will have to install a shutoff valve and only keep a small amount of flexible line on hand to drain/flush my loops.









Good job with your build. Although that out from Res to Rad could be a touch shorter, unless it causes a link.









~Ceadder


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Without de-coupling my pump it vibrates a hell of a lot at 100%. I'd take each setting as 20% in the vario.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> At 50% I can feel a slight vibration (about the same as my fans at 1200rpm).
> At 60% the sound becomes very audible because of its high-pitch.
> At 100% even more so. Vibrations are still the same as 50%.
> 
> It's not really a problem for me, as I won't run it above 45%. And the foam + rubber + foam decoupling I have works really well. Although ghetto.
> 
> I just wonder if it could be whine from the electronics in the pump - as it draws more load (like coil-whine almost?).


my guess is you are hearing some resonance in the coil because varios are not designed to be used in pwm. i also assume you have connected the pump to your cpu_fan header on your P8P67 PRO, which i think is pwm.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> my guess is you are hearing some resonance in the coil because varios are not designed to be used in pwm. i also assume you have connected the pump to your cpu_fan header on your P8P67 PRO, which i think is pwm.


Can a vario be used on a voltage controlled fan controller via molex to 3 pin fan adapter? I've got an MCP655 and the placement of the pump makes it really difficult to access the variable switch.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> my guess is you are hearing some resonance in the coil because varios are not designed to be used in pwm. i also assume you have connected the pump to your cpu_fan header on your P8P67 PRO, which i think is pwm.


Are u saying the Vario D5 Pump is good at 3 pin not 4 pins fan headers which make the resonance in coil by it?


----------



## BradleyW

My little loop is still going strong.


----------



## fleetfeather

dem tiny noctua's tho....


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> dem tiny noctua's tho....


Very cute


----------



## electro2u

You can technically live on bread and water too but I wouldn't suggest it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Are u saying the Vario D5 Pump is good at 3 pin not 4 pins fan headers which make the resonance in coil by it?


Not what he's saying. The vario d5 should only be controlled by the 5 setting levels. Using voltage to control it does cause noise and probably isn't good for the circuits.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah, solid performance and amazing build quality but as far as noise goes, well, there's a reason "Jet" is in their name... Because that's what they sound like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember in the Parvum Titanfall build log I took a picture of 4 of them standing up, lit and running. It took forever for me to get all of them standing, they kept blowing themselves over. They'll take your finger off too.
> 
> I think in terms of aesthetics they are my favorite but the noise is too much. I would personally go with either the new EK fans, the Parvum fans, or the Noiseblocker Multiframes (as was mentioned).


How are the Noiseblocker Multiframes on rads tho?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> How are the Noiseblocker Multiframes on rads tho?


I don't do scientific measurements by any means, but they have worked well for me. I used them in both Robocop (12 of them) and in Parvum Warfare. Both builds have good temps and are near silent. The one for rads is the M12-P, which is PWM 1000-2000 RPM. The "S" models are chassis fans.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> my guess is you are hearing some resonance in the coil because varios are not designed to be used in pwm. i also assume you have connected the pump to your cpu_fan header on your P8P67 PRO, which i think is pwm.


yes that header is pwm but without a pwm device on it, it will put out 100%. the pwm function doesnt work on a 3pin anything. in fact, every strictly pwm header will cause anything to run full tilt 12v because, well, thats what it does, output 12v.


----------



## Bluemustang

Dont know wth alphacool was thinking when they included 35mm screws with the ut60 and xt45. Even the 30mm screws make contact with the stop plate that prevents damage to the fins/channels *before* even being fully screwed in (the fans wobble loose), im going to have to use washers even for those. And while screwing into the case the 30mm screws just barely make it without squeezing the stop plates. The 35mms? Forget about it, far too long. I'm lucky these have those stop plates or i wouldve damaged my rad with those 35mms, heck even the 30mms when not screwing to the case. Had to order extra 30mm M3s.

More than that i didnt get copper screws and plugs. The UT60 rad came with both black screws and black plugs and the XT45 came with black screws and copper plugs. I just hope the black (kind of like a black sparkle like the bitspower ones) plug is nickel or brass and not some bad kind of metal. I should probably complain about that as its advertised as copper.


----------



## wermad

All of my alphacool rads I've owned (many) have come w/ additional 35mm rad screws. I believe the primary reason is for those running acrylic cases, which tend to be 4-5mm thick. Its annoying as sometimes you can't tell, but non-the-less, the small hex head is very useless and i end up using my own screws. You can pick up a small pack of cheap and better screws on ebay (or mcmastercarr.com for a bit more).


----------



## guitarhero23

Any huge advantage that makes it worth it to get

These
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22416/ex-tub-2511/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_White_BP-DWEML.html?tl=g30c703#blank

Over these?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c47-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html

Can get 2 for the price of one, both with double O-ring it seems (would be using for whole build if doable, not just between VGA.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> All of my alphacool rads I've owned (many) have come w/ additional 35mm rad screws. I believe the primary reason is for those running acrylic cases, which tend to be 4-5mm thick. Its annoying as sometimes you can't tell, but non-the-less, the small hex head is very useless and i end up using my own screws. You can pick up a small pack of cheap and better screws on ebay (or mcmastercarr.com for a bit more).


Yeah that is what i did, got a 50 pack off ebay for $8. Wouldve been about $25 from both home depot and frozencpu (figured i cant really complain about sizes). But for the non copper parts i wrote to PPCS, though i may need to write alphacool instead about something like that meh.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Any huge advantage that makes it worth it to get
> 
> These
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22416/ex-tub-2511/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_White_BP-DWEML.html?tl=g30c703#blank
> 
> Over these?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c47-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html
> 
> Can get 2 for the price of one, both with double O-ring it seems (would be using for whole build if doable, not just between VGA.


The first is a compression hard fitting and the later a push fitting. The compression squeezes an o-ring around the outside of the tube (inside the locking ring) to seal. While the c47 uses two o-rings to seal the tube.

Not sure, but probably ease of use and less tendency to ruin the o-rings if you go w/ compression; I would still go with the c47s for my rig (if i had the choice).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Yeah that is what i did, got a 50 pack for $8. Wouldve been about $25 from both home depot and frozencpu. And wrote to ppcs about the non copper parts, though i may need to write alphacool instead meh.


I have a bunch of screws left and even went as far as converting some Alpha rads into M4. McMasterCarr can get expensive, and they typically don't give you shipping rates right away (not until you've placed your order). Though, ebay screws have been a bit lower in quality vs McMaster imho.

my


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The first is a compression hard fitting and the later a push fitting. The compression squeezes an o-ring around the outside of the tube (inside the locking ring) to seal. While the c47 uses two o-rings to seal the tube.
> 
> Not sure, but probably ease of use and less tendency to ruin the o-rings if you go w/ compression; I would still go with the c47s for my rig (if i had the choice).
> I have a bunch of screws left and even went as far as converting some Alpha rads into M4. McMasterCarr can get expensive, and they typically don't give you shipping rates right away (not until you've placed your order). Though, ebay screws have been a bit lower in quality vs McMaster imho.
> 
> my


What does quality matter? As long as the threads hold on thats all that counts (and ive got plenty of holding power, 16 screws attaching the rad to the case).


----------



## wermad

After using screws for a while, some of the M4 screws I bought off ebay would refuse to grab, even if the threads were in pretty decent shape. This was especially annoying using the thick CL radiator brackets. I went back to my stash of McMaster screws and they all worked flawless. So, when ever I run into this issue, i throw in a McMasterCarr screw and it goes in fine. Same thing w/ the M3 screws I bought from ebay. Luckily, i had a baggie full of ek spares and there were some oe m3 screws that worked perfect.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> After using screws for a while, some of the M4 screws I bought off ebay would refuse to grab, even if the threads were in pretty decent shape. This was especially annoying using the thick CL radiator brackets. I went back to my stash of McMaster screws and they all worked flawless. So, when ever I run into this issue, i throw in a McMasterCarr screw and it goes in fine. Same thing w/ the M3 screws I bought from ebay. Luckily, i had a baggie full of ek spares and there were some oe m3 screws that worked perfect.


Well hope i dont have that problem. Ordered these http://www.ebay.com/itm/111403450969?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I suppose worse case scenario i could use my dremel to take off 5mm from the 35mm screws and use washers for the small heads.

This build has already taken so long, ended up having to spend another 100 on rotary fittings and extenders as the non rotaries didnt work out for me. Just got those yesterday and now i realized im having a lot more trouble making the bends with the hard tubing than i thought so i ordered a set of mandrels, measurement set and some other stuff in the package, another 100 for that and a couple more sets of tubing to make sure i dont run out. Oh and then ppcs told me theyre out of stock on one thing and ill have to wait till next week for it to be in stock.....

This has evolved into an *Extremely* pricey build







. I havnt calced up exactly but im somewhere up around 1800-1900 if you include the 900D and 1200w PSU, deduct about 500 from that for the WC parts alone.


----------



## wermad

Oh yuppers, this hobby gets expensive.


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't even want to think about how much I have put into my hobby.









~Ceadder


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't even want to think about how much I have put into my hobby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Me neither I doubt I could count that high. I buy watercooling gear even if I don't need it last week I had 7 240mm rads 3 360mm's and a 120mm. And just got a stacker 915 that has 2 360s 6 fans, it's own pump and resivior,used for an external cooling system for anything I want to use it for at the time pics here if your interested...

http://imgur.com/a/I2hYf

pretty cool, I'm thinking about putting the rads inside it but I will probably just end up putting some cool rad covers on them so I can change them up to match whatever build it's cooling at the time.also the rigid acrylic is set up perfectly already and would have to change it up drastically.
But 720mm of cooling power is a pretty good thing to have handy at any given moment esspecially if the case your using doesn't have rad support.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Without de-coupling my pump it vibrates a hell of a lot at 100%. I'd take each setting as 20% in the vario.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> At 50% I can feel a slight vibration (about the same as my fans at 1200rpm).
> At 60% the sound becomes very audible because of its high-pitch.
> At 100% even more so. Vibrations are still the same as 50%.
> 
> It's not really a problem for me, as I won't run it above 45%. And the foam + rubber + foam decoupling I have works really well. Although ghetto.
> 
> I just wonder if it could be whine from the electronics in the pump - as it draws more load (like coil-whine almost?).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my guess is you are hearing some resonance in the coil because varios are not designed to be used in pwm. i also assume you have connected the pump to your cpu_fan header on your P8P67 PRO, which i think is pwm.
Click to expand...

PWM pump still gets power from molex - it is just controlled via PWM.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Dont know wth alphacool was thinking when they included 35mm screws with the ut60 and xt45. Even the 30mm screws make contact with the stop plate that prevents damage to the fins/channels *before* even being fully screwed in (the fans wobble loose), im going to have to use washers even for those. And while screwing into the case the 30mm screws just barely make it without squeezing the stop plates. The 35mms? Forget about it, far too long. I'm lucky these have those stop plates or i wouldve damaged my rad with those 35mms, heck even the 30mms when not screwing to the case. Had to order extra 30mm M3s.
> 
> More than that i didnt get copper screws and plugs. The UT60 rad came with both black screws and black plugs and the XT45 came with black screws and copper plugs. I just hope the black (kind of like a black sparkle like the bitspower ones) plug is nickel or brass and not some bad kind of metal. I should probably complain about that as its advertised as copper.
> 
> 
> 
> All of my alphacool rads I've owned (many) have come w/ additional 35mm rad screws. *I believe the primary reason is for those running acrylic cases, which tend to be 4-5mm thick*. Its annoying as sometimes you can't tell, but non-the-less, the small hex head is very useless and i end up using my own screws. You can pick up a small pack of cheap and better screws on ebay (or mcmastercarr.com for a bit more).
Click to expand...

The 35mm screws also are for thicker aluminum cases or for those adding grills and or a rad gasket, etc. I've needed those 35mm screws a couple times now but I've not ever yet needed the little ~6mm screws that instead come with XSPC or Hardwarelabs or Mayhems rads, and yet all of those also came with 30mm screws only for one side just like Alphastools do. 30mm screws for only one side seems pretty standard fare for rads.

Also, I've bought / installed well over a dozen Alphastool rads so far and not had even a single instance where the supplied 30mm screws after going through a fan reached the screw protection plate and I've never added washers. Same goes for the 30mm screws that come with other brands of rads I've bought and many of those don't have a screw protection plate so if the screw was to go too far I'd risk puncturing a tube. Even all of the rads that I tapped out the threads to M4 (because M3 screws suck hard anywho) I've always replaced them with 30mm long ones that have never given me any issues. 25mm long screws would be too short (heck, most '25mm' thick fans are really 25.5mm - 26mm - at least most of the ones I own) and I don't even know where you'd find screws in a length between 25mm and 30mm, and if someplace did sell an odd size I'm sure they'd cost an odd price I wouldn't want to pay.


----------



## fleetfeather

I'm a big fan of buying my own titanium screws for case screws and rad screws.

Especially in regards to case screws, the supplied gear is often garbage quality; prone to stripping and paint flaking within the first few instances of handling.

Titanium screws might sound like overkill, but they're relatively cheap and save a lot of hassle in the long run. I'm more likely to bend the rolled steel case panels themselves than strip a titanium screw hah


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The 35mm screws also are for thicker aluminum cases or for those adding grills and or a rad gasket, etc. I've needed those 35mm screws a couple times now but I've not ever yet needed the little ~6mm screws that instead come with XSPC or Hardwarelabs or Mayhems rads, and yet all of those also came with 30mm screws only for one side just like Alphastools do. 30mm screws for only one side seems pretty standard fare for rads.
> 
> Also, I've bought / installed well over a dozen Alphastool rads so far and not had even a single instance where the supplied 30mm screws after going through a fan reached the screw protection plate and I've never added washers. Same goes for the 30mm screws that come with other brands of rads I've bought and many of those don't have a screw protection plate so if the screw was to go too far I'd risk puncturing a tube. Even all of the rads that I tapped out the threads to M4 (because M3 screws suck hard anywho) I've always replaced them with 30mm long ones that have never given me any issues. 25mm long screws would be too short (heck, most '25mm' thick fans are really 25.5mm - 26mm - at least most of the ones I own) and I don't even know where you'd find screws in a length between 25mm and 30mm, and if someplace did sell an odd size I'm sure they'd cost an odd price I wouldn't want to pay.


Well, the 30mm ones reach the plate through my 25mm fans.....

PS: And i just checked....even going through the 900d case in the bottom the 30mm screws make contact with the backplate. Though just barely, its safe as long as im careful. But still does. Without the case i need washers.

Though i did measure my fans and they are about 23.5mm give or take a few fractions. I measured both my masscool fans and the provided corsair fans that come with the 900d. The corsair fans are actually a tad bit smaller. Sure am glad i went with alphacool rads with stop plates.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I won't laugh about your drain setup. That's how I set mine up back when people relied on pulling a tube from the lowest point in their loop to drain. Now THAT is something I would lolol about. Now that I'm torn down for tube/acrylic change over I will have to install a shutoff valve and only keep a small amount of flexible line on hand to drain/flush my loops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good job with your build. Although that out from Res to Rad could be a touch shorter, unless it causes a link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah. I just don't want to mess with the "Compromise" Untill my SMA8 is complete. I've got 4000$ in my current SMa8 and just waiting to slap more stuff in it. THe Compromise has taken up enough of my time to where I don't want to open the side panel for a while (Been Over 6 months Now)







So I am happy with that part. I will Have to Redo it in acrylic of Course since now I have used acrylic and Love it. The Real question is whether I want to keep the Vi Formula (That I messed up the USB 3.0 Header and cannot use my Usb on the front of the 750D Because of that screw up) OR go to a VII Formula and Another Caselabs for the Home Cpu.










The Cautious One


----------



## tengtium

Update my sarah build..

from scout 2 to cover v2
from maximus formula to maximus impact

just sharing


----------



## lowfat

Looks cute.


----------



## snef

look at this beauty,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Still waiting for mine....DPD sucks balls


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> look at this beauty,


I wonder how much they are charging for these?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> look at this beauty,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You are a lucky man snef.. 1/50 ? if i know right.. this means this is the first piece out of 50 made?


----------



## Ceadderman

Does EK have a msrp on that yet?









Really wish they would make more than 50.

~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Don't forget to include a link to your build log @snef when it goes up. Some of us have bad habits of not being able to find them for some reason ^_^;;;


----------



## Lefik

I love the window of that case, but the motherboard size just kills it for me. There's plenty of space to put an MATX board in there.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> look at this beauty,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man that looks great! I'd love to build into one and maybe do something kinda off-the-wall with it. Maybe like a Xeon+ Quadro K2200 combo with a 750ti block with a black\green theme...
throw in some low RPM Vardars and make it a silent, efficient, liquid-cooled worstation.

That'd be fun...


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Don't forget to include a link to your build log @snef when it goes up. Some of us have bad habits of not being able to find them for some reason ^_^;;;


http://www.overclock.net/t/1539643/build-log-snefs-gold-wings


----------



## Bluemustang

Man....i am so done with performance-pcs, the most unprofessional responses, items listed as in stock they tell me as out of stock (AFTER i ordered said in stock item) with incomplete sentences/missing words/horrible grammar. They tell me they'll have more in stock beginning of next week and the very next email they tell me end of next week. And not even any offers of compensation for not only problems but false/mis-advertising. I've spent too much money to deal with all that.

Moving to frozencpu from now on even if a little higher prices. Are there any other USA sites that have large stocks/selections like fcpu and ppcs?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Man....i am so done with performance-pcs, the most unprofessional responses, items listed as in stock they tell me as out of stock (AFTER i ordered said in stock item) with incomplete sentences/missing words/horrible grammar. They tell me they'll have more in stock beginning of next week and the very next email they tell me end of next week. And not even any offers of compensation for not only problems but false/mis-advertising. I've spent too much money to deal with all that.
> 
> Moving to frozencpu from now on even if a little higher prices. Are there any other USA sites that have large stocks/selections like fcpu and ppcs?


Maybe SidewinderComputers? I love Frozencpu.com and when I call to check on my order sometimes I remind them of that. They Rock so hardcore



TCO


----------



## Bluemustang

Yeah i checked sidewinders, very limited selection. Plus the popular mentions like petras, jabtech etc. In my searches it seems fcpu and ppcs are the only ones that have large selections. Selections large enough to make my orders without having to drop shipping on multiple sites to get an order filled.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still waiting for mine....DPD sucks balls


still lost or they found it and waiting for delivery??

funny how many package are lost from begening of the year

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You are a lucky man snef.. 1/50 ? if i know right.. this means this is the first piece out of 50 made?


to be honnest, a 00/50 exist but in EKWB head office in Slovenia and its not for resale


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still waiting for mine....DPD sucks balls


thats not like DPD!

i usually stalk the driver online as they have GPS tracking on there vehicles.









DPD is my fav delivery company. ive never had problem with them!

is there any tracking on it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still waiting for mine....DPD sucks balls
> 
> 
> 
> thats not like DPD!
> 
> i usually stalk the driver online as they have GPS tracking on there vehicles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DPD is my fav delivery company. ive never had problem with them!
> 
> is there any tracking on it?
Click to expand...

Yes. It was lost between hub and depot.

And im raging about it.....


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes. It was lost between hub and depot.
> 
> And im raging about it.....


i bet you are!

i think some deliverymen think its ok to steal stuff this time of year!

i kept ordering stuff with just 1st class RM & it was never coming.









i got that fed up with it & stalked my postman everyday & asked him what was going on. eventually i made a complaint after ruling out anyone in my building taking them & they all turned up together.

some with cellotape on them where they had been resealed!









Thieving gits


----------



## colorblu

I rebuilt some stuff the petg tube was a little more difficult to get really good bends that i had thought.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> i bet you are!
> 
> i think some deliverymen think its ok to steal stuff this time of year!
> 
> i kept ordering stuff with just 1st class RM & it was never coming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i got that fed up with it & stalked my postman everyday & asked him what was going on. eventually i made a complaint after ruling out anyone in my building taking them & they all turned up together.
> 
> some with cellotape on them where they had been resealed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thieving gits


Hehe, reminds me of when a Haf Stacker case I order went missing though the tracking showed it in mid California. Funny when I mailed Newegg about it. They said that was not possible until I showed them the screenshots. At least they refund me the cost of the case.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hehe, reminds me of when a Haf Stacker case I order went missing though the tracking showed it in mid California. Funny when I mailed Newegg about it. They said that was not possible until I showed them the screenshots. At least they refund me the cost of the case.


ive had no problems with signed for packages. just stuff that comes through the mailbox. its petty thinks like endmills/screws etc. nothing of real value tbh. but its just annoying when you have ordered it before from the same places & its arrived no problem. to erm waiting forever more & them not turning up.

I think if they feel they can get away with it....... then they try it on!

ever since my complaint though stuff has come no problem. it started in november with a new postman.


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Have a bunch of 16mm bitspower crystal link tubing in 500mm lengths... None of it fits my bitspower multilink fittings. Not even close really. It won't fit in my monsoon 16mm miter box either. Super annoyed. The monsoon tubing fits the multilink fittings like a glove. Very snug but easy enough to push in. I've sanded the crap out of the ends of the crystal link and it still won't fit.


I used 500mm lengths of 16mm bitspower tubing (purchased from fcpu) with their enhanced fittings and they fit fine. They also fit in the miter box with a slight push. Lubing the o-rings in the fittings with sillicone grease made using them much easier. Without greasing the o-rings it was damned near impossible to work with. If yours just absolutely wont even fit, then maybe you got a bad batch and should contact the reseller you purchased from? WIth my experience using them, that is totally not the norm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Yeah i checked sidewinders, very limited selection. Plus the popular mentions like petras, jabtech etc. In my searches it seems fcpu and ppcs are the only ones that have large selections. Selections large enough to make my orders without having to drop shipping on multiple sites to get an order filled.


Yeahup, here in the States it's only ppcs or fcpu. If you don't mind Canada, DazMode is halfway decent and international Aquatuning. I can't say that my ppcs experience has been that bad, so I will continue shopping with them. Sidewinders, Jabtech and the others inventory is scant and not worth the time imho.

Seems like we're losing more water cooling vendors which is narrowing the competition field.

In defense of PPCs(not out of misplaced loyalty either) they did undergo a website change and are working out the bugs. That is ALOT of inventory to get updated. Can't say that I experienced the communication issues that you have though. So honestly I would just encourage patience regarding them. It could simply just be a new employee issue. I don't know.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Yeah i checked sidewinders, very limited selection. Plus the popular mentions like petras, jabtech etc. In my searches it seems fcpu and ppcs are the only ones that have large selections. Selections large enough to make my orders without having to drop shipping on multiple sites to get an order filled.


I find that PPCs site is atrocious to try to navigate (I may not be as smart as I think I am though) so I really just give Frozen the business.

The Cautious One


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeahup, here in the States it's only ppcs or fcpu. If you don't mind Canada, DazMode is halfway decent and international Aquatuning. I can't say that my ppcs experience has been that bad, so I will continue shopping with them. Sidewinders, Jabtech and the others inventory is scant and not worth the time imho.
> 
> Seems like we're losing more water cooling vendors which is narrowing the competition field.
> 
> In defense of PPCs(not out of misplaced loyalty either) they did undergo a website change and are working out the bugs. That is ALOT of inventory to get updated. Can't say that I experienced the communication issues that you have though. So honestly I would just encourage patience regarding them. It could simply just be a new employee issue. I don't know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I use sidewinder for small items I need quickly. Since they're only a few hours away, even the cheapest shipping usually gets delivered next day. And some of their prices are a little lower than both fcpu and ppcs


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I find that PPCs site is atrocious to try to navigate (I may not be as smart as I think I am though) so I really just give Frozen the business.
> 
> The Cautious One


I actually prefer the layout on ppcs over fcpu. But ppcs is pretty slow (especially on this crap freakin laptop im suffering with until i get my build finished lol).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> *I actually prefer the layout on ppcs over fcpu*. But ppcs is pretty slow (especially on this crap freakin laptop im suffering with until i get my build finished lol).


Really?? Wow. maybe I haven't been on the site enough to learn how to navigate it







Nah. I stay my ground. *FRoze*n All Day 24/7










TCO


----------



## fleetfeather

I order things from FCPU, but I get them sent individually.

Stupidly, it's cheaper to get things shipped individually rather than as a bulk order.

Just last week, I got 3 feet of tubing and a pump top shipped as two separate orders and saved something like $30 in international posting


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I order things from FCPU, but I get them sent individually.
> 
> Stupidly, it's cheaper to get things shipped individually rather than as a bulk order.
> 
> Just last week, I got 3 feet of tubing and a pump top shipped as two separate orders and saved something like $30 in international posting


Oh Geez but yea you're in Aus. I try to get bulk because the code for Frozen that works 24/7 is OCN that save 5.1% So If you get an order around 200$ and shipping is like 15$ For Ground you usually save the 15$ plus a little more.

THe cautious One


----------



## wermad

ppcs.com on mobile


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ppcs.com on mobile


could not say it better my self


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ppcs.com on mobile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could not say it better my self
Click to expand...

Forget asking "Can it run Crysis!", instead ask "Can it get to checkout at PPCS?!"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Does EK have a msrp on that yet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really wish they would make more than 50.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its not being released.

Dunno how long that will last tho....


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ppcs.com on mobile


Ppcs in general sucks my order was in processing for 6 days so I call and apparently one small item wasn't in stock so they were holding the whole order. He re I am waiting on all these important parts to build and they are holding my order for stupid wire sleeving...







( will not be buying from them again..frozencpu.com all the way.


----------



## WeirdHarold

I'll order from PPCs only if I can't find a part in stock anywhere else. Most of business goes to FrozenCPU but I've used sidewinder and Aquatunning from time to time.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'll order from PPCs only if I can't find a part in stock anywhere else. Most of business goes to FrozenCPU but I've used sidewinder and Aquatunning from time to time.


I'm partial to frozencpu because of the customer service around Christmas I was building this extravagant pc and they sent me a wrong item. Not only did they insist on letting me keep the item but they overnighter me the new one. With a card saying I hope will didn't hold up your build







) that imho will keep my business for life. But I do buy alot of used parts as well watercooling super expensive and if I can save a buck I will.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ppcs.com on mobile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ppcs in general sucks my order was in processing for 6 days so I call and apparently one small item wasn't in stock so they were holding the whole order. He re I am waiting on all these important parts to build and they are holding my order for stupid wire sleeving...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( will not be buying from them again..frozencpu.com all the way.
Click to expand...

Are we being trolled? Not to offend but I have to wonder when I see someone with 21 total posts who right/wrong flames into any business.









Apologies if I am overthinking but it wouldn't be the first time.









~Ceadder


----------



## ozzy1925

Do you recommend using sillicone grease with the bp c47?I found this: http://divestock.ee/technisub-silicone-grease-20-gr
Its for divers but not sure if safe to use with watercooling ?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are we being trolled? Not to offend but I have to wonder when I see someone with 21 total posts who right/wrong flames into any business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies if I am overthinking but it wouldn't be the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not at all. I joined here because a friend told me a guy had some parts I wanted. Had a good experience so I decided to say. I'm not flaming them I was just saying that I had not had good experience with them at all on multiple occasions and prefer frozencpu.com instead. It just blows my mind that they would hold back an order of $1000 because one less than 10$ thing was out of stock. Should have been listed on the website that they were out. It put off a whole build for a week. Deffinatly not trying to bad mouth anyone I'm just expressing my anger more or less.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ppcs.com on mobile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ppcs in general sucks my order was in processing for 6 days so I call and apparently one small item wasn't in stock so they were holding the whole order. He re I am waiting on all these important parts to build and they are holding my order for stupid wire sleeving...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( will not be buying from them again..frozencpu.com all the way.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Are we being trolled? Not to offend but I have to wonder when I see someone with 21 total posts who right/wrong flames into any business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies if I am overthinking but it wouldn't be the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Post count is irrelevant to experience Ceadder,you know that already.

After having Hank tried to get himself involved with my business with Monsoon,he gets no respect from me at all.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Do you recommend using sillicone grease with the bp c47?I found this: http://divestock.ee/technisub-silicone-grease-20-gr
> Its for divers but not sure if safe to use with watercooling ?


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> My rig is on my sig so I'm using a Black Ice GT Stealth rad.
> 
> What on my sig is what I have and 3 months ago I add the gpu block,reservoir, silver plug and e-1000 tubes. That's it.
> 
> I like plain water like what they said that plain di is the best to use rather than coolant, that's why I don't order any liquid.


Hi there,

Eventhough this forum has guys who are really experts on this, when i saw your pictures i remembered *my horror story*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1297422/koolance-cpu-370-and-bitspower-corrosion-solution

It was a big mistake of mine to use silver kill coil and excellent quality DI water only (Mayhems Ultra pure water).

After the "accident" I used Mayhems X1 transparent (same cooling capacity with water) and changed my tubes to Primochill Advanced LRT and i completely removed the silver kill coils!

Since then, my blocks are crystal clear in the 6 month check i do, while the new tube has absolutely no sign of placticiser.

Recommendation: Get rid of the silver kill coil, fitting etc and use a pre-mix liquid (preferably Mayhems X1)

Check my thread and probably you will get convinced...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1297422/koolance-cpu-370-and-bitspower-corrosion-solution

Good Luck


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Post count is irrelevant to experience Ceadder,you know that already.
> 
> After having Hank tried to get himself involved with my business with Monsoon,he gets no respect from me at all.....


What happened with monsoon did you order direct from them...just ordered a bunch of new fittings.. I'd be interested in hearing your story if you'd be willing to tell it


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> Eventhough this forum has guys who are really experts on this, when i saw your pictures i remembered *my horror story*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1297422/koolance-cpu-370-and-bitspower-corrosion-solution
> 
> It was a big mistake of mine to use silver kill coil and excellent quality DI water only (Mayhems Ultra pure water).
> 
> After the "accident" I used Mayhems X1 transparent (same cooling capacity with water) and changed my tubes to Primochill Advanced LRT and i completely removed the silver kill coils!
> 
> Since then, my blocks are crystal clear in the 6 month check i do, while the new tube has absolutely no sign of placticiser.
> 
> Recommendation: Get rid of the silver kill coil, fitting etc and use a pre-mix liquid (preferably Mayhems X1)
> 
> Check my thread and probably you will get convinced...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1297422/koolance-cpu-370-and-bitspower-corrosion-solution
> 
> Good Luck


I have always heard positive results with Mayhems X1
I was going to use mayhems a few years back but couldn't find any stock suppliers at the time
only option would have been FCPU but with the NZ dollar worth almost nothing and shipping costs it was going to be a real expensive option
I see a few shops stocking now I might use it next time round I just in the experiment stage of waiting to see how long I can go without changing fluid I reckon I will upgrade hardware before that.


----------



## Rahldrac

So how bad is actually Red coolant? I have always heard that you should never use color coolant because it stains your system and gunks up your blocks ruining performance?
I was thinking about going with the EK-Ekoolant blood red. But if it's really that bad I guess I will skip it.


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colorblu*
> 
> 
> 
> I rebuilt some stuff the petg tube was a little more difficult to get really good bends that i had thought.


Nice bends bro







but the picture to small la..


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I find that PPCs site is atrocious to try to navigate (I may not be as smart as I think I am though) so I really just give Frozen the business.
> 
> The Cautious One


Yeah, the new layout is more of pain then it use to be, plus seems to load slower. Only reason I order from them is because they base in Florida. So it gets shipped fast to here, and the shipping cost is not bad.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> It just blows my mind that they would hold back an order of $1000 because one less than 10$ thing was out of stock.


Common business practice. They can't go ahead and charge extra shipping costs for splitting up orders and adding an unauthorized shipping charge. (illegal)

With that said an email would have been nice if even an automated one.

I personally check my orders multiple times a day to make sure they ship.

I've so far never had an issue with ppcs and a distasteful experience with fpcs. Fpcs is still my backup when not in Stock at ppcs. Everyone's personal experiences will dictate where they spend their money. Customers always first and sometimes that falls behind.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Common business practice. They can't go ahead and charge extra shipping costs for splitting up orders and adding an unauthorized shipping charge. (illegal)
> 
> With that said an email would have been nice if even an automated one.
> 
> I personally check my orders multiple times a day to make sure they ship.
> 
> I've so far never had an issue with ppcs and a distasteful experience with fpcs. Fpcs is still my backup when not in Stock at ppcs. Everyone's personal experiences will dictate where they spend their money. Customers always first and sometimes that falls behind.


Exactly an email is all I am asking for. I would have liked a call too. I do check status of all my orders atleast once a day too but I've had orders that still said processing and I had already recived am item lol. But I just figured that they would send out the 990$ worth of stuff as I paid for shipping and they could have taken the hit for the $3 it would cost to ship the sleeving. Hell if they would have notified me that it wasn't in stock I would have just not got it.

You said you had a bad experience with fzcpu?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, the new layout is more of pain then it use to be, plus seems to load slower. Only reason I order from them is because they base in Florida. So it gets shipped fast to here, and the shipping cost is not bad.


Ah Well that makes perfect sense. If I was still at the Navy base in FL I guess I would be buying there too









The Cautious One


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> Hey there. I don't know if you noticed, but you have a pretty bad kink near your CPU.


----------



## Eze2kiel

*Old school Home Made Watercooler (year 2006)*

*The beginning...*































































*Testing...*


















*10 mm Edition*















































































*Finished!*


----------



## Recr3ational

Guys, what's the cheapest pump out there?
I just want a decent pump to cool a cpu. Don't really want to spend more that necessary.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys, what's the cheapest pump out there?
> I just want a decent pump to cool a cpu. Don't really want to spend more that necessary.


Any of the Jingway rebranded pumps,good but noisy compared to Laing's


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys, what's the cheapest pump out there?
> I just want a decent pump to cool a cpu. Don't really want to spend more that necessary.


I just got a ddc pump with an xspc pumptop/res for 35 shipped.

That was a used pump. The jig way pumps they guy above me are for example an ek 4.0. It's just rebranded those are about 50


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Exactly an email is all I am asking for. I would have liked a call too. I do check status of all my orders atleast once a day too but I've had orders that still said processing and I had already recived am item lol. But I just figured that they would send out the 990$ worth of stuff as I paid for shipping and they could have taken the hit for the $3 it would cost to ship the sleeving. Hell if they would have notified me that it wasn't in stock I would have just not got it.
> 
> You said you had a bad experience with fzcpu?


Yeah it was just I ordered an acrylic top for my pump and when I received it it didn't look like the product they had listed. They didn't update their site and there was a revision or product change. I figured I would have to eat the shipping back at the very least, but they weren't having it. Gave me a we don't really have to deal with it vibe not our fault. I said I'll send it back at my expense and just refund me and they weren't having that either. In the end they gave me store credit which I really didn't want either. Funny thing is that it was part of a 700+ dollar order and nope, the customer was not first.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> *Old school Home Made Watercooler (year 2006)*


I love it!

Thanks for sharing


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yeah it was just I ordered an acrylic top for my pump and when I received it it didn't look like the product they had listed. They didn't update their site and there was a revision or product change. I figured I would have to eat the shipping back at the very least, but they weren't having it. Gave me a we don't really have to deal with it vibe not our fault. I said I'll send it back at my expense and just refund me and they weren't having that either. In the end they gave me store credit which I really didn't want either. Funny thing is that it was part of a 700+ dollar order and nope, the customer was not first.
> I love it!
> 
> Thanks for sharing


Wow well that's understandable. I think it's funny how everyone always has a different result when contacting certain websites about issues.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> *Old school Home Made Watercooler (year 2006)*this is awsome!!
> 
> *The beginning...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Testing...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *10 mm Edition*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Finished!*


----------



## alancsalt

Please don't repost unspoilered masses of photos, and especially without comment.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Please don't repost unspoilered masses of photos, and especially without comment.


MY EYES AND MOUSE WHEEL ARE BURNING! AHHHHH

The Cautious One




White Dom Plat Bars Anyone?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> MY EYES AND MOUSE WHEEL ARE BURNING! AHHHHH
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> White Dom Plat Bars Anyone?


IMO I think you should polish the Dominator tops instead of painting them. Like how @sinnedone has done it. Polished ftw.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...led zalman v1/IMAG3521_1_zps0wd9a1za.jpg.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMO I think you should polish the Dominator tops instead of painting them. Like how @sinnedone has done it. Polished ftw.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...led zalman v1/IMAG3521_1_zps0wd9a1za.jpg.html


Whoa Whoa Whoa. I thought those were plated??

TCO


----------



## VSG

I have a ticket abroad the polish train myself, especially if you are having nickel coated blocks/fittings around.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have a ticket abroad the polish train myself, especially if you are having nickel coated blocks/fittings around.


No Nickle. Just White









The Cautious One


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No Nickle. Just White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


Given everything I have seen from you so far, I am sure it is going to be amazing


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Given everything I have seen from you so far, I am sure it is going to be amazing










I appreciate that! I am thinking I will have to paint the Bitspower 90s that I am going to have to use on the top of the Reservior



Since they only Come in Black from Frozencpu.com







That Should be interesting. All the Other ONes I might, will , should need I think I can get in white.

And! I wanted to ask a question @snef or anyone for that matter for what type of fitting is being used in the G 1/4 for the Passthrough Right here



The Cautious One

EDIT: Is this what I am looking At?


----------



## VSG

Well seeing how a passthrough just has female G/14 threads on the side shown there, I'd imagine this is the fitting in there: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20995/ex-tub-1972/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_White_BP-DWWP-C47.html (this is for 2 of them)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well seeing how a passthrough just has female G/14 threads on the side shown there, I'd imagine this is the fitting in there: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20995/ex-tub-1972/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_White_BP-DWWP-C47.html (this is for 2 of them)










Oh My Goodness. VSG You're the Man! (Like you don't know that)

Thanks A Ton BuB!

The Cautious One

EDIT: + Rep for VSG and Lowfat


----------



## lowfat

These
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17049/ex-tub-1484/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_White_BP-DWWP-C04.html?tl=g30c101s460&id=ThKKRZ3t

+
these
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20995/ex-tub-1972/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_White_BP-DWWP-C47.html

EDIT: Ninja'd


----------



## TheCautiousOne

A Good Ninja Though!



TCO


----------



## jodybdesigns

Finally count me in (Thanks Jebus)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










*Phantom 410 - Fantomex in Rig Sig*
XSPC G1/4" to (10mm) 3/8" Barb Fitting
Alphacool 10mm (3/8") Barbed Fitting 90° revolvable G1/4 with O-Ring - Deep Black
PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 3/8in. ID X 1/2in. OD - Elegant White
ModRight Black-Out Series 4-Pin PWM Extension Cable - 24"
XSPC Raystorm CPU Waterblock - Intel
Black Ice® GT Stealth 240 XFlow Highest Performance Radiator - Onyx Black
Phobya Balancer - 150mm - Black Nickel
ModMyToys Acrylic LED G1/4 Plug - White/Black
Swiftech MCP50X Exteme 12 VDC DDC Pump (LOVING this)


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Finally it's done!



















More in my build log!

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Finally it's done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More in my build log!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


awww, its cute like a little bunny


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Finally it's done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More in my build log!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw




Its so little




























, looks good









Must of been a pain to work in


----------



## DarthBaggins

Temp soft tubing installed until my Monsoon Acrylic tool shows up (tubing insert is all I needed)


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I'm partial to frozencpu because of the customer service around Christmas I was building this extravagant pc and they sent me a wrong item. Not only did they insist on letting me keep the item but they overnighter me the new one. With a card saying I hope will didn't hold up your build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) that imho will keep my business for life. But I do buy alot of used parts as well watercooling super expensive and if I can save a buck I will.


See that is the kind of thing i am talking about. I got nothing like that from ppcs, no respect for holding me up over and over and misadvertising, no offers of any kind of compensation, and they apparently never passed 4th grade english (not just in 1 email either, in all emails i've gotten from them).

If your experience is the kind of service i can expect from fcpu then they've got a customer for life. Even if they're a bit more expensive i'll pay it. PPCS should learn a thing or 2.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> MY EYES AND MOUSE WHEEL ARE BURNING! AHHHHH
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White Dom Plat Bars Anyone?


OOOH me likey.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMO I think you should polish the Dominator tops instead of painting them. Like how @sinnedone has done it. Polished ftw.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sin...led zalman v1/IMAG3521_1_zps0wd9a1za.jpg.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Whoa Whoa Whoa. I thought those were plated??
> 
> TCO


Yeah mine were nickel plated. I think there might be different versions of them because mine were anodized and I needed to have that removed in order to do anything with them. Not to mention they're are made out of that cheap cast aluminum.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Finally it's done!
> 
> 
> 
> More in my build log!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Nice Jeff, the compactness is oh so cute.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> See that is the kind of thing i am talking about. I got nothing like that from ppcs, no respect for holding me up over and over and misadvertising, no offers of any kind of compensation, and they apparently never passed 4th grade english (not just in 1 email either, in all emails i've gotten from them).
> 
> If your experience is the kind of service i can expect from fcpu then they've got a customer for life. Even if they're a bit more expensive i'll pay it. PPCS should learn a thing or 2.


Exactly and 1 day overnight shipping on a 10$ item now that's awsome!


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate that! I am thinking I will have to paint the Bitspower 90s that I am going to have to use on the top of the Reservior
> 
> 
> 
> Since they only Come in Black from Frozencpu.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That Should be interesting. All the Other ONes I might, will , should need I think I can get in white.
> 
> And! I wanted to ask a question @snef or anyone for that matter for what type of fitting is being used in the G 1/4 for the Passthrough Right here


I love Snef's work he is one of my all time favorite builders!


----------



## wermad

Only thing holding me back doing a sff build is my hands. I might as well not even try







. Otherwise, I would have done an matx with a nice horizontal mb (not CL).


----------



## Ceadderman

Firstly to comment on my earlier thought... I realize/know that post count does not = experience. That was not how I intended my thought to be taken. Only that there have been instances where someone joined and almost immediately threw a mfr/vendor under the bus, climbed in and backed over them repeatedly to gain business. Not saying that this IS the case here.









Now, last night while going over my WC'ING setup, I noticed some corosion in the Inlet section of my Acetal channel of my MB block. I tore it down while on the board so I could inspect it. I noticed that indeed there was a minor amount of corrosion but it was due to the steel access plate. The Inlet is at the point where the SB route returns and passes thru the block. Similar to a GPU flow chamber. I wish that EK(and other manufacturers) would mill this point to. Accept a gasket string to keep throughflow to the waterchannel and not over the divider. Also would like to see these plates made out of brass and not steel. After thoroughly going over my block, I have determined that it is the steel that corroded. Not much, but enough to get my attention.









HOwever, since it is steel I am going to take the panel and have it powder coated the color it is now so that should negate the corrosive point in my loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bluemustang

Hey guys. I took my gpu block off to check VRM contact since some people mentioned issues with this block. But anyway i took the gpu terminal off and noticed there is a piece sticking out. It looks kinda like an acrylic O-Ring thats been bent out and thus sorta cracked probably from too much pressure. Should i remove this or leave it as it is? Leaving it will be slightly in the way of the water but it shouldnt have much affect, i'm just hoping 2 things 1 that it doesnt snap off and find its way shoved inside my block or 2 cause a leak as it seems it was for holding the black O-Ring on. God why couldnt they just form that shape into the acrylic without an extra piece







Oh and some others have the same thing slightly, but not nearly so much.




And heres without black O-Ring


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hey guys. I took my gpu block off to check VRM contact since some people mentioned issues with this block. But anyway i took the gpu terminal off and noticed there is a piece sticking out. It looks kinda like an acrylic O-Ring thats been bent out and thus sorta cracked probably from too much pressure. Should i remove this or leave it as it is? Leaving it will be slightly in the way of the water but it shouldnt have much affect, i'm just hoping 2 things 1 that it doesnt snap off and find its way shoved inside my block or 2 cause a leak as it seems it was for holding the black O-Ring on. God why couldnt they just form that shape into the acrylic without an extra piece
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and some others have the same thing slightly, but not nearly so much.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And heres without black O-Ring


it looks like an Ek terminal.I wouldnt risk it and RMA


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> it looks like an Ek terminal.I wouldnt risk it and RMA


I can RMA something like that? Wouldnt that be my fault for too much pressure?

Also i dont see what the point really is, the black O ring seals the outside to the acrylic top on my block, it shouldnt be able to leak with the black oring in place. The inner acrylic layer only seems to be functioning as an extra layer of protection.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I can RMA something like that? Wouldnt that be my fault for too much pressure?
> 
> Also i dont see what the point really is, the black O ring seals the outside to the acrylic top on my block, it shouldnt be able to leak with the black oring in place. The inner acrylic layer only seems to be functioning as an extra layer of protection.


The arcrylic wall is too thin for the o-rings.I had a similar issue with my 290 blocks you can see here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1496719/build-log-corsair-900d-project-black-jack-acrylic-tubing-gtx-980-sli/0_100#post_22516706
even with little pressure on the countersunk screws the acrylic cracks.I had a replacement and it also the same issue.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1496719/build-log-corsair-900d-project-black-jack-acrylic-tubing-gtx-980-sli/0_100#post_22566164
My final replacement had a different design hole for the countersunk screws and its safe


----------



## Bluemustang

Oh I cant believe after all the problems ive already had now i have to do an RMA. How long did yours take? Those things often take 3 weeks in my experience.

Also your cracks were like mine on EK 290 blocks and they accepted the RMA? After you told them it had cracks after you installed it?

I also did not use a lot of pressure at all, i just tighten until its snug/slightly firm and thats it. I never crank anything.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Oh I cant believe after all the problems ive already had now i have to do an RMA. How long did yours take? Those things often take 3 weeks in my experience.
> 
> Also your cracks were like mine on EK 290 blocks and they accepted the RMA? After you told them it had cracks after you installed it?
> 
> I also did not use a lot of pressure at all, i just tighten until its snug/slightly firm and thats it. I never crank anything.


i didnt even install my first blocks ,i saw the cracks when checking the tops.My Rma didnt take so long (around 1-1.5 weeks but i live in Turkey) .Ek has a very good customer service if you tell them the problem i am sure they will replace it very fast.


----------



## Jakusonfire

So the inner edge of the oring retaining groove has come away. That's just the nature of acrylic, its brittle and relatively fragile. No doubt this is one of the reasons the acrylic versions were so long coming.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> So the inner edge of the oring retaining groove has come away. That's just the nature of acrylic, its brittle and relatively fragile. No doubt this is one of the reasons the acrylic versions were so long coming.


So you too agree i shouldnt use it like this and do an RMA?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hey guys. I took my gpu block off to check VRM contact since some people mentioned issues with this block. But anyway i took the gpu terminal off and noticed there is a piece sticking out. It looks kinda like an acrylic O-Ring thats been bent out and thus sorta cracked probably from too much pressure. Should i remove this or leave it as it is? Leaving it will be slightly in the way of the water but it shouldnt have much affect, i'm just hoping 2 things 1 that it doesnt snap off and find its way shoved inside my block or 2 cause a leak as it seems it was for holding the black O-Ring on. God why couldnt they just form that shape into the acrylic without an extra piece
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and some others have the same thing slightly, but not nearly so much.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And heres without black O-Ring


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> The arcrylic wall is too thin for the o-rings.I had a similar issue with my 290 blocks you can see here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1496719/build-log-corsair-900d-project-black-jack-acrylic-tubing-gtx-980-sli/0_100#post_22516706
> even with little pressure on the countersunk screws the acrylic cracks.I had a replacement and it also the same issue.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1496719/build-log-corsair-900d-project-black-jack-acrylic-tubing-gtx-980-sli/0_100#post_22566164
> My final replacement had a different design hole for the countersunk screws and its safe


I have the same issue on my 290 blocks. (both of them) I personally didn't RMA as I think Ozzy might have been the person who had his RMA'd and the replacements were in exactly the same shape.

The way I see it is that if its strong enough to stay in place and hold the oring correctly in place there really shouldn't be any issues. Its a manufacturing issue that needs to be remedied. Its probably caused by to too much heat while manufacturing. Slowing things down a bit on that section or maybe a different machining process at that point might yield better results.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> So you too agree i shouldnt use it like this and do an RMA?


It depends, I would want to hold it in my hands to say for sure but it worries me just looking at it. Without that slight lip there is the possibility for the oring to slip down into the water path, letting water leak out the bridge. Equally, It may be there is enough lip remaining, combined with the oring wanting to maintain its natural shape, that it will stay in place nicely.
It does look that, at least in its uncompressed state, that the oring is sitting where it should be. Whether it stays like that once it starts to be compressed?

I would do some testing to see how well it seals.


----------



## lowfat

If anyone hasn't voted for MOTM yet, you should.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1535744/ocn-mod-of-the-month-january-2015-professional-class-vote-now/0_20


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol at this point I think you've got it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If anyone hasn't voted for MOTM yet, you should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1535744/ocn-mod-of-the-month-january-2015-professional-class-vote-now/0_20


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> lol at this point I think you've got it


Lol







But I second that. Head over there people and vote.


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Solid work! Did you modify the PSU cover for those tubing pass throughs?


I made the cover myself, its 2 pieces of MDF I sanded and painted. The pass throughs are just a couple of U shaped holes I cut into it before assembling. Glad you like it







I love it, especially since its my first custom loop


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If anyone hasn't voted for MOTM yet, you should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1535744/ocn-mod-of-the-month-january-2015-professional-class-vote-now/0_20


Choices... they be too hard. lol









Followed almost all the builds nominated and its definitely a tough one.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hey guys. I took my gpu block off to check VRM contact since some people mentioned issues with this block. But anyway i took the gpu terminal off and noticed there is a piece sticking out. It looks kinda like an acrylic O-Ring thats been bent out and thus sorta cracked probably from too much pressure. Should i remove this or leave it as it is? Leaving it will be slightly in the way of the water but it shouldnt have much affect, i'm just hoping 2 things 1 that it doesnt snap off and find its way shoved inside my block or 2 cause a leak as it seems it was for holding the black O-Ring on. God why couldnt they just form that shape into the acrylic without an extra piece
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and some others have the same thing slightly, but not nearly so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And heres without black O-Ring


Post this on the EK page, you will probably get a answer pretty fast from a EK mod


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Post this on the EK page, you will probably get a answer pretty fast from a EK mod


And/Or contact EK's rep here on OCN, @akira749


----------



## akira749

@Bluemustang, is it chipped out of the bridge or more like a mold anomaly?


----------



## jodybdesigns

HD VIDEO BABY

I still cant believe the 150mm rezzie fit in the space where you remove the hard drive cage on the Phantom 410. I think i got super lucky here. The fittings pretty much hold it in place in the plastic pieces grooves. Beautiful.

And the MCP50X is the shizz, smashes my D5 pump (it was $30 more too) - I just removed it


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> HD VIDEO BABY
> 
> I still cant believe the 150mm rezzie fit in the space where you remove the hard drive cage on the Phantom 410. I think i got super lucky here. The fittings pretty much hold it in place in the plastic pieces grooves. Beautiful.
> 
> And the MCP50X is the shizz, smashes my D5 pump (it was $30 more too) - I just removed it


So what do you really think of the 50X?


----------



## emsj86

Everytime I see a mcp50x I wonder if it was the one I sold. I do t know why but I would like to see it put to good use and see it in a build.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> So what do you really think of the 50X?


Sir I am *HIGHLY* satisfied with my purchase. I do not regret it at all. This little thing seems like its built like a tank. And is smaller than the bulky DC12-400 (4.4) pump I was looking at. The 50X comes with a super good top and doesn't get hot at all. My D5 would get twice as hot. My D5 also doesn't push that well. I think the D5's are over-hyped a LOT. This 50X will probably suffice 2 more blocks and a rad just fine IMO.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Everytime I see a mcp50x I wonder if it was the one I sold. I do t know why but I would like to see it put to good use and see it in a build.


I got mine off PPCS for $69. Was my first time dealing with Hank. I had a great experience. And saved a lot of money as well.

Package came perfect, all contents in perfect order. I will buy from PPCS again.

I also used the *ocn55* discount.


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To follow up a little on what perhaps seemed initially to be more humorous than factual;
> 
> The issues with low budget controllers really manifests when you start to load multiple channels so that the overall load becomes fairly significant.
> 
> One or two channels loaded to near capacity isn't usually going to be an issue.
> 
> With the current IC technology used in voltage regulator circuits, it's not too hard any more to control significantly higher currents than a few years ago, with less heat being produced.
> 
> This is good. . . . We have a lot of controllers to choose from with 30 to 36W per channel capability.
> 
> The down side is that controller manufacturers are not stepping up their onboard infrastructure to carry the total amount of current that multiple channel loading requires.
> 
> They advertise 30W per channel, and hope you don't put that much load on more than a couple channels, with very little on the rest.
> 
> 30W per channel is 180W for all 6 at max.
> 
> That's 15Amps on the 12V supply connection and the PCB traces emanating from it.
> 
> That little 3 pin connector isn't rated for even half that amount.
> 
> I'd bet for sure that the wire then send to adapt the molex to that connector isn't anywhere near the gage it needs to be for that current level.
> 
> Even Molex connectors are only really good for about 6 Amps per pin, a bit more if you solder the connection.
> 
> If your load requirements are well under half of what the controller advertises, it'll probably be just fine and give good performance for a normal life span.
> 
> If you really need to max out its capability, you should be looking at a very high end controller with a track record for extended, trouble free, hi power usage.
> 
> Darlene


How much current can the 3 pin fan cable extension/splitter handle?


----------



## wermad

Curious to know which ddc variant is the mcp50x based on?

Waiting on D5 f4n80y2 to start bashing DDC in 3....2....1...(







)


----------



## emsj86

I enjoyed my mcp50x while I had it. Worked very well. Couldn't hear it under 70 percent pwm sognal


----------



## jodybdesigns

I am also curious in a controller that can handle my pump + 2 pwm fans, and be able to control all. I am having issues with ASRocks UEFI software controlling everything correctly. After a couple hours of messing around, i finally got my pump set close to 3800 RPM (give or take away a couple hundred), but then it wants to control my fans in this manner. One will spin correctly while the other seems visually slower. So i have them plugged into both 3 pin CPU fan headers to make them 100%. I don't like this method. I have *2 PWM* headers, and both seems to be controlled by one single config.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Years of positive feedback and confirmed reliability that is unmatched doesn't really seem like hype, just a great product. The d5 doesn't receive or need hyping.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Curious to know which ddc variant is the mcp50x based on?


I have been following the MCP50X thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1516369/my-review-of-the-swiftech-mcp50x-pump/230#post_23517166

From the looks of the tear down, it looks like a brand new DDC pump setup.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> So what do you really think of the 50X?
> 
> 
> 
> Sir I am *HIGHLY* satisfied with my purchase. I do not regret it at all. This little thing seems like its built like a tank. And is smaller than the bulky DC12-400 (4.4) pump I was looking at. The 50X comes with a super good top and doesn't get hot at all. *My D5 would get twice as hot.* My D5 also doesn't push that well. I think the D5's are over-hyped a LOT. This 50X will probably suffice 2 more blocks and a rad just fine IMO.
Click to expand...

Lol!

Nope.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Years of positive feedback and confirmed reliability that is unmatched doesn't really seem like hype, just a great product. The d5 doesn't receive or need hyping.


And this.

All day,every day.

including Christmas.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Years of positive feedback and confirmed reliability that is unmatched doesn't really seem like hype, just a great product. The d5 doesn't receive or need hyping.


The 50X is brand new, nobody knows of the true durability yet - it looks like new(er) DDC pumps are being built.

But on this note, my D5 sucked in comparison. But the longevity of the 50X, that's something time only tell.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The only thing it shares with ddc pumps is a similar external appearance.
Not overly surprising since centrifugal pumps can only be arranged and packaged so many ways.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol!
> 
> Nope.
> And this.
> 
> All day,every day.
> 
> including Christmas.


Everytime I see demon spawn I crack uuuuuuppppppp in your picture do0d


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I have been following the MCP50X thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1516369/my-review-of-the-swiftech-mcp50x-pump/230#post_23517166
> 
> From the looks of the tear down, it looks like a brand new DDC pump setup.


Cool beans









Interesting design of the impeller. It is compatible w/ any DDC top/res?


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cool beans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting design of the impeller. It is compatible w/ any DDC top/res?


I think Swiftech is currently developing some. Although, when I was customizing my setup on PPCS, there some pump top customizations offered (mostly the MCP35X tops), but I have no idea if they fit as I was satisfied with the top it came with.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cool beans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting design of the impeller. It is compatible w/ any DDC top/res?


Afraid not. That impeller is also similar to the Asetek AIO impeller in terms of the shape.

Also, for those who haven't seen this yet:



4 OCN members in there


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I have been following the MCP50X thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1516369/my-review-of-the-swiftech-mcp50x-pump/230#post_23517166
> 
> From the looks of the tear down, it looks like a brand new DDC pump setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool beans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting design of the impeller. *It is compatible w/ any DDC top/res*?
Click to expand...

Nope . . . .

It was born an orphan . . . . and will likely remain one forever

It's a basic, no frills, solidly built pump for entry level or basic builds where aesthetics aren't high on the list of important concerns.

It doesn't have any tops other than the stock one, no dual tops, and no dress up kits.

It's not interchangeable with the DDC tops or dress up kits.

Because it's Swiftech's design, and only comes from them, it isn't going to see the sales numbers that the DDC has piled up thru the years, which is what translates to optional bits becoming available for it.

If you can hide it, abide it, . . . . if it shows, it blows.

Darlene


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you can hide it, abide it, . . . . if it shows, it blows.
> 
> Darlene


I am now hiding mine, Darlene has intervened lulz


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Also, for those who haven't seen this yet:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4 OCN members in there


Opps, 5..

Akira, Snef, *B*, Malik, And DarthB.


----------



## VSG

I haven't seen Richard Surroz post in here in a while though. Anyway that's besides the point- I am excited to see what these guys come up with


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I haven't seen Richard Surroz post in here in a while though. Anyway that's besides the point- I am excited to see what these guys come up with


When the case actually arrives......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Afraid not. That impeller is also similar to the Asetek AIO impeller in terms of the shape.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nope . . . .
> 
> It was born an orphan . . . . and will likely remain one forever
> 
> It's a basic, no frills, solidly built pump for entry level or basic builds where aesthetics aren't high on the list of important concerns.
> 
> It doesn't have any tops other than the stock one, no dual tops, and no dress up kits.
> 
> It's not interchangeable with the DDC tops or dress up kits.
> 
> Because it's Swiftech's design, and only comes from them, it isn't going to see the sales numbers that the DDC has piled up thru the years, which is what translates to optional bits becoming available for it.
> 
> If you can hide it, abide it, . . . . if it shows, it blows.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I am now hiding mine, Darlene has intervened lulz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks







. Hmm, would have made an interesting sff pump had there been some res attachment. Small m2m link should do the trick.

edit: just found ppcs.com has options for DDC tops....?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Also, for those who haven't seen this yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 4 OCN members in there


So they're dropping the little itx case. What a shame. looked promising imho.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nope . . . .
> 
> It was born an orphan . . . . and will likely remain one forever
> 
> It's a basic, no frills, solidly built pump for entry level or basic builds where aesthetics aren't high on the list of important concerns.
> 
> It doesn't have any tops other than the stock one, no dual tops, and no dress up kits.
> 
> It's not interchangeable with the DDC tops or dress up kits.
> 
> Because it's Swiftech's design, and only comes from them, it isn't going to see the sales numbers that the DDC has piled up thru the years, which is what translates to optional bits becoming available for it.
> 
> If you can hide it, abide it, . . . . if it shows, it blows.
> 
> Darlene


We'll be coming out with a clear top very soon. It's in the final stages of validation. If we get enough interest in a dual top, we'll consider that as well. Darlene, your input is always helpful.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nope . . . .
> 
> It was born an orphan . . . . and will likely remain one forever
> 
> It's a basic, no frills, solidly built pump for entry level or basic builds where aesthetics aren't high on the list of important concerns.
> 
> It doesn't have any tops other than the stock one, no dual tops, and no dress up kits.
> 
> It's not interchangeable with the DDC tops or dress up kits.
> 
> Because it's Swiftech's design, and only comes from them, it isn't going to see the sales numbers that the DDC has piled up thru the years, which is what translates to optional bits becoming available for it.
> 
> If you can hide it, abide it, . . . . if it shows, it blows.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> We'll be coming out with a clear top very soon. It's in the final stages of validation. If we get enough interest in a dual top, we'll consider that as well. Darlene, your input is always helpful.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input Brian,

A clear top will certainly be a very welcomed addition.

Does the potted PCB assembly come out of the plastic housing, or is it all essentially molded together.

Having it capable of being dressed up with something akin to the EK or Bitspower metal housings would make it appealing to more aesthetics conscious builders.

Having a nice top may only make the ugly bottom that much more conspicuous if it can't be hidden.

By all accounts, the design is solid, and the pricing is excellent, . . . . but it's just ugly in its current form.

Darlene


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks for the input Brian,
> 
> A clear top will certainly be a very welcomed addition.
> 
> Does the potted PCB assembly come out of the plastic housing, or is it all essentially molded together.
> 
> Having it capable of being dressed up with something akin to the EK or Bitspower metal housings would make it appealing to more aesthetics conscious builders.
> 
> Having a nice top may only make the ugly bottom that much more conspicuous if it can't be hidden.
> 
> By all accounts, the design is solid, and the pricing is excellent, . . . . but it's just ugly in its current form.
> 
> Darlene


No, it is currently molded together. We'll have to consider it though for future design changes. This is our own in-house pump, so changing the design to make it more esthetically pleasing is certainly possible.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Also, for those who haven't seen this yet:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Mod-Off poster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4 OCN members in there


Actually, I recognize 7 OCN members there ...

@montymole, @DarthBeavis, @Malik, @snef, @Pcjunkie209, @akira749, and @B NEGATIVE

And actually all 8 are OCN members if you count this one that just joined today.









(had to edit my math







)


----------



## VSG

Huh I didn't know Chris had joined in, thanks for the heads up!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks for the input Brian,
> 
> A clear top will certainly be a very welcomed addition.
> 
> Does the potted PCB assembly come out of the plastic housing, or is it all essentially molded together.
> 
> Having it capable of being dressed up with something akin to the EK or Bitspower metal housings would make it appealing to more aesthetics conscious builders.
> 
> Having a nice top may only make the ugly bottom that much more conspicuous if it can't be hidden.
> 
> By all accounts, the design is solid, and the pricing is excellent, . . . . but it's just ugly in its current form.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> No, it is currently molded together. We'll have to consider it though for future design changes. This is our own in-house pump, *so changing the design to make it more esthetically pleasing is certainly possible.*
Click to expand...

That's definitely encouraging, no doubt it would boost sales considerably.

Once they look as good as reports say they work, I'll buy some for sure . . . .

In the meantime, I'll slum it with the 35Xs when I need a smaller footprint.











Darlene


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We'll be coming out with a clear top very soon. It's in the final stages of validation. If we get enough interest in a dual top, we'll consider that as well. Darlene, your input is always helpful.


I'll once again express my interest in a nice, aesthetically pleasing single pump, as well as a double top! The MCP50X does have an... industrial and utilitarian look to it, but is lacking in the sexyness other pumps can have.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol when I saw DarthB , was about to wonder where case was.


----------



## Ceadderman

I will assume that you already have a D5. But should you not. Have one, tops don't come with gaskets, so you will need one of those and a blockoff plate from their dual pump bay res. Which I don't believe anyone makes but I could be wrong. When I got my first DDC pump, I was fortunate to get a blockoff from one of our members so I was able to run my single DDC with my dual top.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

For those about to order anything from PPC:

http://us1.campaign-archive2.com/?u=c5d0ca22f571464ad3718ac66&id=957ebb814d&e=62450dc52c


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> For those about to order anything from PPC:
> 
> http://us1.campaign-archive2.com/?u=c5d0ca22f571464ad3718ac66&id=957ebb814d&e=62450dc52c


Just a bit of a heads up:
Quote:


> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than *cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items*. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from February 9th 2014 through February 14th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So whats some good 120mm rad fans?

Gonna be rebuilding my server in the coming months with probably 2 E5-2620 v3 Xeons and gonna cool them with a couple of H80i's







just dunno what fans to go seeing I cant get AP-15s anymore
















Thanks









I also havent been able to see if the watercooling on my main rig works yet, Australia Post lost my damn replacement mounting plate


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So whats some good 120mm rad fans?
> 
> Gonna be rebuilding my server in the coming months with probably 2 E5-2620 v3 Xeons and gonna cool them with a couple of H80i's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just dunno what fans to go seeing I cant get AP-15s anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also havent been able to see if the watercooling on my main rig works yet, Australia Post lost my damn replacement mounting plate


Ek Vardars turned out real good apparently. Can still get ap-45 oem GTs but the Vardars are just as good or better it seems. They look just about the same unfortunately.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Ek Vardars turned out real good apparently. Can still get ap-45 oem GTs but the Vardars are just as good or better it seems. They look just about the same unfortunately.


Cool, the shop I'm buying the H80i's from have the Vardars in stock







. Hey dont knock the look, AP-15s are perfect for breaking up the black in my cases


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> For those about to order anything from PPC:
> 
> http://us1.campaign-archive2.com/?u=c5d0ca22f571464ad3718ac66&id=957ebb814d&e=62450dc52c
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of a heads up:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than *cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items*. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from February 9th 2014 through February 14th 2015. One coupon per order please.)
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Still leaves alot of stuff open for discount. Now if they added "*cases, processors, motherboards, water cooling and Clearance items*" then someone there better batten down the hatches and have the fire department on permanent standby.







lol

Anyone see those barrows tapped acrylics? Have any experience with them? Can you bend them to your will? Would be awesome if they had them in color tubing but I'm wondering because I have a couple points on my MB that I need to extend in order to install my choice of fittings. I'm considering purchasing one and bending it to suit for my MB Out because it's next to my 8 pin header. My chaingun fitting negates my 8pin which is no bueno.









Barrows 100mm G1/4 tapped acrylic tube (PPCs)

~Ceadder


----------



## WiSK

Those Barrow tubes are far too short to bend, the longest one is like 5 inches. Even if you would try you'd be heating the ends with the threads too. I suppose it could work if you are careful with the heat-gun. What kind of angle do you need to make?

But you know they are female threaded tubes, so which fitting would you use for the male threads from your motherboard? If you use a male-to-male fitting you'd need a few millimetres play to be able to screw it in.


----------



## guitarhero23

I know they aren't big like Newegg but if they want to tempt me to order earlier than I planned $6 off a $100 order won't get me to budge. It'll certainly help ones who were planning to order anyway though!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Still leaves alot of stuff open for discount. Now if they added "*cases, processors, motherboards, water cooling and Clearance items*" then someone there better batten down the hatches and have the fire department on permanent standby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone see those barrows tapped acrylics? Have any experience with them? Can you bend them to your will? Would be awesome if they had them in color tubing but I'm wondering because I have a couple points on my MB that I need to extend in order to install my choice of fittings. I'm considering purchasing one and bending it to suit for my MB Out because it's next to my 8 pin header. My chaingun fitting negates my 8pin which is no bueno.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barrows 100mm G1/4 tapped acrylic tube (PPCs)
> 
> ~Ceadder


Used the Barrow threaded tubes with failure of them within a month.
The threaded section just wasn't strong enough after the thread was cut.
About 1/3 of them were cracked at the threads, one was leaking coolant.
Got lucky with where drip landed and noticed before any damage done.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Those Barrow tubes are far too short to bend, the longest one is like 5 inches. Even if you would try you'd be heating the ends with the threads too. I suppose it could work if you are careful with the heat-gun. What kind of angle do you need to make?
> 
> But you know they are female threaded tubes, so which fitting would you use for the male threads from your motherboard? If you use a male-to-male fitting you'd need a few millimetres play to be able to screw it in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Still leaves alot of stuff open for discount. Now if they added "*cases, processors, motherboards, water cooling and Clearance items*" then someone there better batten down the hatches and have the fire department on permanent standby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> Anyone see those barrows tapped acrylics? Have any experience with them? Can you bend them to your will? Would be awesome if they had them in color tubing but I'm wondering because I have a couple points on my MB that I need to extend in order to install my choice of fittings. I'm considering purchasing one and bending it to suit for my MB Out because it's next to my 8 pin header. My chaingun fitting negates my 8pin which is no bueno.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barrows 100mm G1/4 tapped acrylic tube (PPCs)
> 
> ~Ceadder


Would it be possible to tap a custom length acrylic tube with a thread similar to those of barrow? I suppose one would need a thicker wall acrylic tube (thicker than a regular ek or bitspower tube) to do that but what sort of machinery you need to accomplish that?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Would it be possible to tap a custom length acrylic tube with a thread similar to those of barrow? I suppose one would need a thicker wall acrylic tube (thicker than a regular ek or bitspower tube) to do that but what sort of machinery you need to accomplish that?


I actually remember seeing someone do that. Found it. Done by the ModZoo using 1/2" x 3/4" acrylic tubing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTn32Cfzjl8

I'm glad you brought this up again. I am really considering doing this.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Would it be possible to tap a custom length acrylic tube with a thread similar to those of barrow? I suppose one would need a thicker wall acrylic tube (thicker than a regular ek or bitspower tube) to do that but what sort of machinery you need to accomplish that?


Personal opinion, but I thought this rig looked better with the bent acrylic anyway


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Curious to know which ddc variant is the mcp50x based on?
> 
> Waiting on D5 f4n80y2 to start bashing DDC in 3....2....1...(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


As far as i know i was one of the first to be a guinea pig for this pump and it turned out great. it's a Swiftech design and i loved it except the fact the PWM cable is a bit short if you place your pump way bottom. i had to do my own extender.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We'll be coming out with a clear top very soon. It's in the final stages of validation. If we get enough interest in a dual top, we'll consider that as well. Darlene, your input is always helpful.


That would be awesome. i'm going to be building another rig soon and the only reason i am no going mcp50X is the looks of it... i agree with Darlene .. pretty build = hide the mcp50 and i believe there were tons of people asking for dual tops when this came out ...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Would it be possible to tap a custom length acrylic tube with a thread similar to those of barrow? I suppose one would need a thicker wall acrylic tube (thicker than a regular ek or bitspower tube) to do that but what sort of machinery you need to accomplish that?
> 
> 
> 
> I actually remember seeing someone do that. Found it. Done by the ModZoo using 1/2" x 3/4" acrylic tubing.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTn32Cfzjl8
> 
> I'm glad you brought this up again. I am really considering doing this.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind when doing something like that the ID of the 3/4" tubing they were working with is 12.7mm, and the tap drill for G1/4 is 11.8mm, so you're going to get very weak thread engagement.

It's particularly obvious as the threads look so thin from the outside.

That process may be slightly less resistant to cracking because of the greater wall thickness, but it's greatly more at risk for the threads stripping or pulling out.

Darlene


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Keep in mind when doing something like that the ID of the 3/4" tubing they were working with is 12.7mm, and the tap drill for G1/4 is 11.8mm, so you're going to get very weak thread engagement.
> 
> It's particularly obvious as the threads look so thin from the outside.
> 
> That process may be slightly less resistant to cracking because of the greater wall thickness, but it's greatly more at risk for the threads stripping or pulling out.
> 
> Darlene


Good to know. Do you think using a thick walled 12mm ID tubing would work better?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Anyone know if you can get PWM nb-eloop with the Phobya or Alphacool Rebrand? Or is Noiseblockers version the only one that can be purchased with PWM ?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Anyone know if you can get PWM nb-eloop with the Phobya or Alphacool Rebrand? Or is Noiseblockers version the only one that can be purchased with PWM ?


Only the original NB eloop come in PWM. The Alphacool and phobya versions are just cheaper editions so only voltage control and no nice cables with them.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

After seeing how the threads failed on fast_fate's build I'm surprised anyone would seriously consider using threaded acrylic. Only way I'd do it was if all the hardware was free. Otherwise no way worth the risk imho.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Keep in mind when doing something like that the ID of the 3/4" tubing they were working with is 12.7mm, and the tap drill for G1/4 is 11.8mm, so you're going to get very weak thread engagement.
> 
> It's particularly obvious as the threads look so thin from the outside.
> 
> That process may be slightly less resistant to cracking because of the greater wall thickness, but it's greatly more at risk for the threads stripping or pulling out.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know. Do you think using a thick walled 12mm ID tubing would work better?
Click to expand...

Maybe a little . . . . .

But the whole idea of internally threading acrylic tubing is just bad from the get - go.

Threading creates stress risers and no matter what, it's either going to crack eventually, or have to be so big in diameter that it looks like crap and won't fit anywhere.

Possibly trying the internal threading idea with polycarbonate tubing might yield more satisfactory results . . . . but it's often not quite as clear as acrylic, and I'm not lining up to be a guinea pig.

Darlene


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Personal opinion, but I thought this rig looked better with the bent acrylic anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice runs.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Only the original NB eloop come in PWM. The Alphacool and phobya versions are just cheaper editions so only voltage control and no nice cables with them.


Hmm... Hard choice I don't know if PWM is worth the giving up a dark Colored fan lol


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Also, for those who haven't seen this yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 5 OCN members in there


Congrats gang, can't wait to see the buildlogs.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So whats some good 120mm rad fans?
> 
> Gonna be rebuilding my server in the coming months with probably 2 E5-2620 v3 Xeons and gonna cool them with a couple of H80i's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just dunno what fans to go seeing I cant get AP-15s anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also havent been able to see if the watercooling on my main rig works yet, Australia Post lost my damn replacement mounting plate


AP-15s ARE able to be found. Coolerguys does ship to Australia, albeit it is gonna cost you.

http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Ek Vardars turned out real good apparently. Can still get ap-45 oem GTs but the Vardars are just as good or better it seems. They look just about the same unfortunately.


Coolerguys does sell the Gentle Typhoon line (everything cept the 800rpm version, i.e. the AP-11). See the link in the part where I responded to Aussiejuggalo. Also, the GTs are still a bit better than the Vardars.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Those Barrow tubes are far too short to bend, the longest one is like 5 inches. Even if you would try you'd be heating the ends with the threads too. I suppose it could work if you are careful with the heat-gun. What kind of angle do you need to make?
> 
> But you know they are female threaded tubes, so which fitting would you use for the male threads from your motherboard? If you use a male-to-male fitting you'd need a few millimetres play to be able to screw it in.


I was thinking of making two separate 90's. It wasn't written in stone though. Only stoopid question is one that goes unasked. It's a good thing that I did cause seeing that leak told me all I need to know.









The last comparison of vardar to GT that I saw (posted here somewhere) showed dead even results. Which leads me to believe that Vardars are rebranded GTs'. I can't prove that w/o internals fron EK/Igor, but visually they're identical when compared on their backs. Not having either of them in front of me I can't say whether or not they perform/sound any different either.

~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

They look extremely similar (Vardar to GT's)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The last comparison of vardar to GT that I saw (posted here somewhere) showed dead even results. Which leads me to believe that Vardars are rebranded GTs'. I can't prove that w/o internals fron EK/Igor, but visually they're identical when compared on their backs. Not having either of them in front of me I can't say whether or not they perform/sound any different either.
> 
> ~Ceadder


EK's Vardar's obviously copycatted the looks from Gentle Typhoons, but they don't look identical. They are definitely not rebranded GTs.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah, I agree with Unicron. Its clear that EK used the Nidec fans as inspiration and a good starting point for their research and dev but when you hold the fans up close there are lots of significant differences.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Keep in mind when doing something like that the ID of the 3/4" tubing they were working with is 12.7mm, and the tap drill for G1/4 is 11.8mm, so you're going to get very weak thread engagement.
> 
> It's particularly obvious as the threads look so thin from the outside.
> 
> That process may be slightly less resistant to cracking because of the greater wall thickness, but it's greatly more at risk for the threads stripping or pulling out.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know. Do you think using a thick walled 12mm ID tubing would work better?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe a little . . . . .
> 
> *But the whole idea of internally threading acrylic tubing is just bad from the get - go.*
> 
> Threading creates stress risers and no matter what, it's either going to crack eventually, or have to be so big in diameter that it looks like crap and won't fit anywhere.
> 
> Possibly trying the internal threading idea with polycarbonate tubing might yield more satisfactory results . . . . but it's often not quite as clear as acrylic, and I'm not lining up to be a guinea pig.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I concur.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Someone say guinea pig? Lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Keep in mind when doing something like that the ID of the 3/4" tubing they were working with is 12.7mm, and the tap drill for G1/4 is 11.8mm, so you're going to get very weak thread engagement.
> 
> It's particularly obvious as the threads look so thin from the outside.
> 
> That process may be slightly less resistant to cracking because of the greater wall thickness, but it's greatly more at risk for the threads stripping or pulling out.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I concur.
Click to expand...

Ditto. Tried it myself...Didn't feel comfortable. Did confirm with the slightest movement, the threads will leak.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Another thing you need to consider is what fittings to use. I tried with Bitspower male to male rotary fittings and it did not work at all. There was a lot of play in the threads and it did not get tight enough.


----------



## wermad

Xspc was the best fit and even still, it was not tight for sake of safety imho.


----------



## morencyam

Maybe I won't give it a try then. Thank you all for being my voice of reason









I think I've realized that I like building and revising my build/loop more than actually having it completed lol

Also, just saw this. Not sure how true it is yet as there has been no official report
FrozenCPU Shuts its Doors


----------



## shanker

Phanteks Evolv with an H220X and rad from my H220.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Also, just saw this. Not sure how true it is yet as there has been no official report
> FrozenCPU Shuts its Doors


NOOOOOOO! How could it be!? Now all i reasonably have left is performance-pcs? Gahhhh







And frozencpu was the one to get new blocks in the fastest too


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> NOOOOOOO! How could it be!? Now all i reasonably have left is performance-pcs? Gahhhh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And frozencpu was the one to get new blocks in the fastest too


i bet someone will capitalize on that oportunity


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> i bet someone will capitalize on that oportunity


Yup. PPCs


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yup. PPCs


Indeed PPCS always kept prices slightly below FCPU. Whats to keep them doing that now?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Evolv with an H220X and rad from my H220.


Ok that actually looks super clean.. how easy was it for you to refill it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Ok that actually looks super clean.. how easy was it for you to refill it?


These aren't really that hard to refill and bleed. I can send you detailed instructions if you're interested.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Indeed PPCS always kept prices slightly below FCPU. Whats to keep them doing that now?


I really hope that isn't the stance they take after this awful news. That would just be a kick in the shins.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I really hope that isn't the stance they take after this awful news. That would just be a kick in the shins.


That wouldn't be a wise move on their part. Such a move would likely do more to hurt their business than help it. This is too much of a niche market to suddenly raise prices. It would likely do more to kill interest in the enthusiast market than anything else. It's just not a smart business move.


----------



## ozzy1925

pff thats very bad news







i really hate ppcs.Even their new web site looks ****ty.


----------



## Gabrielzm

That is really sad news. It was my favorite PC liquid cooling gear shop. I guess I will turn more and more to European shops...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That wouldn't be a wise move on their part. Such a move would likely do more to hurt their business than help it. This is too much of a niche market to suddenly raise prices. It would likely do more to kill interest in the enthusiast market than anything else. It's just not a smart business move.


I'm not expecting huge price jumps or anything, but I wouldn't be surprised if say Bitspower fittings jumped up $1 each for example

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> pff thats very bad news
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i really hate ppcs.Even their new web site looks ****ty.


I Agee. I hate the new site. I moved to browsing parts to FCPU just for that reason. I haven't orderer anything in a while, but I had planned on givving FCPU my business going forward. Now looks like I'll be using mainly sidewinder and only ordering from PPCs if sidewinder doesn't have something I need. I still think they should add the option to "view classic site" like PayPal did when they changed they website layout. I even emailed them and suggested that when they first launched their new site but was met with the response of "we're working out the bugs"


----------



## yoi

what i meant about "Capitalize from this opportunity" was ...

.... a new Store lol


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> what i meant about "Capitalize from this opportunity" was ...
> 
> .... a new Store lol


Oh I know, but until we get the full details about why they closed, we can all just keep our fingers crossed. Maybe we'll get lucky and they'll merge with a smaller shop like sidewinder or something. But more shops have been closing than opening recently(Petra's, danger den, and now FCPU).


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm not expecting huge price jumps or anything, but I wouldn't be surprised if say Bitspower fittings jumped up $1 each for example
> I Agee. I hate the new site. I moved to browsing parts to FCPU just for that reason. I haven't orderer anything in a while, but I had planned on givving FCPU my business going forward. Now looks like I'll be using mainly sidewinder and only ordering from PPCs if sidewinder doesn't have something I need. I still think they should add the option to "view classic site" like PayPal did when they changed they website layout. I even emailed them and suggested that when they first launched their new site but was met with the response of "we're working out the bugs"


I tought sidewinder is closed also because last time i checked their web store ,it looks like it hasnt been updated for a long time


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I tought sidewinder is closed also because last time i checked their web store ,it looks like it hasnt been updated for a long time


I'm not sure. They're website is up and running, but it looks like hasn't been updated in a while. And there's been no announcement about closing that I've seen. But like I said, I haven't placed a WC gear order in a while.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I last ordered from Sidewinder on Jan 7th. It's been getting harder and harder to order anything from them though since they don't carry much and so much of what they do carry is 'out of stock'.

Anywho, here's a bit of a headsup on what I've been working on lately. I'm still a couple weeks out from having it all together but the major components are in possession. I'm going to replicate Martin's fan-on-rad airflow/noise testing as closely as possible so I can see how some of these newer fans actually do fare compared to the old tried and true.

Martin's rig:






What I have so far:



I do still need to work out how I'll be doing the PWM fan testing. I can't really use the Aquaero because it needs to be connected to a PC and I can't have anything that makes noise powered on during the testing. No heat/ac, nothing. I'm considering using a Zalman MFC3 since it supposedly has a PWM fan channel. That, or Darlene hinted she might have something that can help me out. Either way I will be adding PWM fan testing to the mix somehow. I also plan to run tests with at least some of the better performing fans on a Monsta 120 also to see how they do with more restriction.

edit: Oh, and I'm also planning to eventually get around to doing the same with some 140mm fans on an MCR140-QP and Monsta 140. I'll be videotaping each test so you can see the air and dB results and hear for yourself just like Martin did.

And I still have to assemble the airflow chamber (I have sections of 8" and 1" pvc for it already) and I need to settle on which camera to get to film the videos with and that purchase will be at least a week, and more likely two if not more, away, but in the meantime by then I should have everything else up and running.


----------



## spencertheminer

hey IK u @B Negative

alas, i have a different name here, but i think you notice my gif.

My build, better pics soon:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> NOOOOOOO! How could it be!? Now all i reasonably have left is performance-pcs? Gahhhh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And frozencpu was the one to get new blocks in the fastest too


I just got my last Package from FrozenCpu.Com Today. It was the longest It has taken in 6 months. (the actual whole 5 day wait to arrive) I am really heartbroken that this happened...

The Cautious One

(Btw I am in the middle of a build and have many.... many.... Fittings to buy... Oh Man... )

The Cautious One


----------



## spencertheminer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I just got my last Package from FrozenCpu.Com Today. It was the longest It has taken in 6 months. (the actual whole 5 day wait to arrive) I am really heartbroken that this happened...
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> (Btw I am in the middle of a build and have many.... many.... Fittings to buy... Oh Man... )
> 
> The Cautious One


Im more broken.
They were 5 min away from me.
That was the one thing that made my boring town interesting.
That was the only store conecting me to the tech world.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Maybe I won't give it a try then. Thank you all for being my voice of reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I've realized that I like building and revising my build/loop more than actually having it completed lol
> 
> Also, just saw this. Not sure how true it is yet as there has been no official report
> 
> FrozenCPU Shuts its Doors


Dang, I hope that really not true. They sometime have better deals at times than PerformancePC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> EK's Vardar's obviously copycatted the looks from Gentle Typhoons, but they don't look identical. They are definitely not rebranded GTs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Seems the Varders have less blades than the GTs. Still prefer my GTs though, never giving mine up, actually need to get three more for the little rig I have plans to make for my Dad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well that sucks that FCPU is closed(valid?/ confirmed?) But guys, they did it to themselves imho. Kept too much old stock on hand, prices were more than any vendor(on average) shipping was murder and the only things they carried that nobody else did was thos kitschy energy drinks. If I want a case of Monster(any flavor) I can get it locally and save the ridiculous shipping costs.

I doubt that prices will skyrocket from PPCs because while they're essentially the only large stock vendor in the US; there are still water cooling vendors who will rush to gain a bigger slice of the Pizza. We still have DazMode and while their stock is somewhat limited, they do add to their inventory. I believe they would expand to pick up where FPC dropped off. Then there is AquaTuning. And mfrs like EK. ..thinking:

I stand corrected onthe Vardar/GT issue. Thank you all who cleared up ?y misconceptions. Nidec may still make them?

~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

first, no it isnt nidec. tibor i think it was claimed the motor was sourced from another mfr.
second, dazmode is in canada so that limits some people also because of shipping.
third, i read someone had horrible experience with aquatuning us because of an rma had to go back to aquatuning uk. paying shipping ticked off that person...


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> first, no it isnt nidec. tibor i think it was claimed the motor was sourced from another mfr.
> second, dazmode is in canada so that limits some people also because of shipping.
> third, i read someone had horrible experience with aquatuning us because of an rma had to go back to aquatuning uk. paying shipping ticked off that person...


Yeah shipping on RMAs makes no sense anyway. Why should i have to pay more if you gave me a faulty item,,,


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that sucks that FCPU is closed(valid?/ confirmed?) But guys, they did it to themselves imho. Kept too much old stock on hand, prices were more than any vendor(on average) shipping was murder and the only things they carried that nobody else did was thos kitschy energy drinks. If I want a case of Monster(any flavor) I can get it locally and save the ridiculous shipping costs.
> 
> I doubt that prices will skyrocket from PPCs because while they're essentially the only large stock vendor in the US; there are still water cooling vendors who will rush to gain a bigger slice of the Pizza. We still have DazMode and while their stock is somewhat limited, they do add to their inventory. I believe they would expand to pick up where FPC dropped off. Then there is AquaTuning. And mfrs like EK. ..thinking:
> 
> I stand corrected onthe Vardar/GT issue. Thank you all who cleared up ?y misconceptions. Nidec may still make them?
> 
> ~Ceadder


According to this post on Hard, it is not permanent, just working on a skeleton crew
Quote:


> We just heard back from Mark Friga, the owner of FrozenCPU.com, a long time enthusiast community supplier, and he explained to me that FrozenCPU is in fact not going out of business as rumored earlier today. He said that FrozenCPU is currently running a skeleton crew and to please bare with his company while the it is ramping back up to 100% employee capacity.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> According to this post on Hard, it is not permanent, just working on a skeleton crew


That's a great update on things, really hope things play out as per the last post.
How about a random pic to liven up the mood


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> According to this post on Hard, it is not permanent, just working on a skeleton crew


Phew. Excellent, excellent news.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> first, no it isnt nidec. tibor i think it was claimed the motor was sourced from another mfr.
> second, dazmode is in canada so that limits some people also because of shipping.
> third, i read someone had horrible experience with aquatuning us because of an rma had to go back to aquatuning uk. paying shipping ticked off that person...


Shipping From DazMode is nothing compared to anything sourced outside of the Americas... but given that the news below seems to have the ring of truth to it, no matter.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that sucks that FCPU is closed(valid?/ confirmed?) But guys, they did it to themselves imho. Kept too much old stock on hand, prices were more than any vendor(on average) shipping was murder and the only things they carried that nobody else did was thos kitschy energy drinks. If I want a case of Monster(any flavor) I can get it locally and save the ridiculous shipping costs.
> 
> I doubt that prices will skyrocket from PPCs because while they're essentially the only large stock vendor in the US; there are still water cooling vendors who will rush to gain a bigger slice of the Pizza. We still have DazMode and while their stock is somewhat limited, they do add to their inventory. I believe they would expand to pick up where FPC dropped off. Then there is AquaTuning. And mfrs like EK. ..thinking:
> 
> I stand corrected onthe Vardar/GT issue. Thank you all who cleared up ?y misconceptions. Nidec may still make them?
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to this post on Hard, it is not permanent, just working on a skeleton crew
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> We just heard back from Mark Friga, the owner of FrozenCPU.com, a long time enthusiast community supplier, and he explained to me that FrozenCPU is in fact not going out of business as rumored earlier today. He said that FrozenCPU is currently running a skeleton crew and to please bare with his company while the it is ramping back up to 100% employee capacity.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I hope this is true as I need some items that I just cannot get any longer from PPCs'. Lutro0 combs being one of them. I could be wrong but I could swear that in Q4 they had Lutro0 in their list of suppliers. Now they don't even list LC. Just looked at FPC's site and the offerings are extremely bare. So I'll be waiting with baited breaths.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Lutro0 hasn't reaupplied fcpu in quite a while now. Mainframe customs.com is Lutro0 products supplier most recently.


----------



## Pimphare

FrozenCPU is not closing. They are operating with fewer employees as of right now and have plans to get back up to full operation asap.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Thank god ....o ordered from performance pcs today and it was so hectic I had to call customer service 8 times before I could get my order to get sent luckily the guy was very helpful this time and I hope my stuff arrives soon it's the last parts I'm waiting on.


----------



## hitzestau

Our new acrylic waterblocks with backplate:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I last ordered from Sidewinder on Jan 7th. It's been getting harder and harder to order anything from them though since they don't carry much and so much of what they do carry is 'out of stock'.
> 
> Anywho, here's a bit of a headsup on what I've been working on lately. I'm still a couple weeks out from having it all together but the major components are in possession. I'm going to replicate Martin's fan-on-rad airflow/noise testing as closely as possible so I can see how some of these newer fans actually do fare compared to the old tried and true.
> 
> Martin's rig:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I have so far:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do still need to work out how I'll be doing the PWM fan testing. I can't really use the Aquaero because it needs to be connected to a PC and I can't have anything that makes noise powered on during the testing. No heat/ac, nothing. I'm considering using a Zalman MFC3 since it supposedly has a PWM fan channel. That, or Darlene hinted she might have something that can help me out. Either way I will be adding PWM fan testing to the mix somehow. I also plan to run tests with at least some of the better performing fans on a Monsta 120 also to see how they do with more restriction.
> 
> And I still have to assemble the airflow chamber (I have sections of 8" and 1" pvc for it already) and I need to settle on which camera to get to film the videos with and that purchase will be at least a week, and more likely two if not more, away, but in the meantime by then I should have everything else up and running.


PM me an address to send this PWM controller to whenever you're ready:





Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> PM me an address to send this PWM controller to whenever you're ready:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Diva's Custom PWM controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Done! Thanks again.

For anyone who doesn't recognize that toy, here you go ...

Precision PWM Controller For Martin's Liquid Lab
http://www.overclock.net/t/1411639/precision-pwm-controller-for-martins-liquid-lab/

Apparently by the time Darlene got it all ready for him Martin was in the midst of a move of residence and took a leave of absence from MartinsLiquidLab and hasn't returned.

I don't even pretend that I'm going to fill that void, but as far as determining which fans perform best for watercooling I do plan to try to pick up where he left off and I'll start a thread here on OCN and post the videos so you can see the airflow and dBA readings and hear the fans for yourself, just like Martin was doing. Also, I will be buying all my own fans, adding one or two each week as I go. I won't be accepting test samples, so there should be no conflicts with OCN's rules or the chance that the products I'm testing might have been cherrypicked samples.


----------



## Kimir

sounds good!


----------



## VSG

Really looking forward to it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Done! Thanks again.
> 
> For anyone who doesn't recognize that toy, here you go ...
> 
> Precision PWM Controller For Martin's Liquid Lab
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1411639/precision-pwm-controller-for-martins-liquid-lab/
> 
> Apparently by the time Darlene got it all ready for him Martin was in the midst of a move of residence and took a leave of absence from MartinsLiquidLab and hasn't returned.
> 
> I don't even pretend that I'm going to fill that void, but as far as determining which fans perform best for watercooling I do plan to try to pick up where he left off and I'll start a thread here on OCN and post the videos so you can see the airflow and dBA readings and hear the fans for yourself, just like Martin was doing. Also, I will be buying all my own fans, adding one or two each week as I go. I won't be accepting test samples, so there should be no conflicts with OCN's rules or the chance that the products I'm testing might have been cherrypicked samples.


Looking forward to it Unicr0nhunter. If I can help or assist in anyway just PM mate


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These aren't really that hard to refill and bleed. I can send you detailed instructions if you're interested.


thanks bram. but im into the real thing. but his can be very helpful for some friends of mine... do you think the pump can power one extra rad and two GPU blocks?


----------



## emsj86

If not allready frozencpu needs to put a statement on there site as not everyone. Knows and could cause problems and delays for people


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> thanls bram. but im into the real thing. but his can be very helpful for some friends of mine... do you think the pump can power one extra rad and two GPU blocks?


Yes it should be able to handle that. I had mine (well I did have the glacer 240l which pump was not as good) and that handled 360 and 240 rad cpu and gpu and a bay reservior. I tried a friends card for two Gpus and it worked fine as well. My temps were very similar to what I have now in my custom loop


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes it should be able to handle that. I had mine (well I did have the glacer 240l which pump was not as good) and that handled 360 and 240 rad cpu and gpu and a bay reservior. I tried a friends card for two Gpus and it worked fine as well. My temps were very similar to what I have now in my custom loop


that would be appealing to some friends i know. thanks a lot.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> thanks bram. but im into the real thing. but his can be very helpful for some friends of mine... do you think the pump can power one extra rad and two GPU blocks?


Yes, it should be able to handle that without a problem.


----------



## twoofswords

My parts from Performance-PC's arrived today. I really liked this method of decoupling the pump from the case.

Plus, why use an 80mm fan when you can use a 120mm fan?

I'm just waiting on one more radiator fan and then I can finally assemble this thing...


----------



## ITF1

Hi,
here is my first full liquid cooling build.
btw. the spaghetti junction will be replaced by acrylic tubing next weekend


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITF1*
> 
> Hi,
> here is my first full liquid cooling build.
> btw. the spaghetti junction will be replaced by acrylic tubing next weekend


I feel as though this could have been laid out better.







But It is nice nonetheless.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITF1*


Are those ROG Poseidon cards you have there?


----------



## ITF1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Are those ROG Poseidon cards you have there?


yes


----------



## Laine

Inwin 901.

PMP: Laing D5 + AquaComputer Aqualis D5 Pump Top
RAD: EK-CoolStream PE 120
RAD: EK-CoolStream PE 120
RES: AquaComputer Aquatube Delrin
GPU: EK-Thermosphere Nickel + Watercool Heatkiller GPU Backplate GTX 970
CPU: AquaComputer Cuplex Kryos Delrin


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Inwin 901.
> 
> PMP: Laing D5 + AquaComputer Aqualis D5 Pump Top
> RAD: EK-CoolStream PE 120
> RAD: EK-CoolStream PE 120
> RES: AquaComputer Aquatube Delrin
> GPU: EK-Thermosphere Nickel + Watercool Heatkiller GPU Backplate GTX 970
> CPU: AquaComputer Cuplex Kryos Delrin
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


neat and cute mate







Will check the build log.


----------



## mxthunder

Some updated pics of my rig. Swapped the UP7 for the G1 Sniper 5


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twoofswords*
> 
> 
> 
> My parts from Performance-PC's arrived today. I really liked this method of decoupling the pump from the case.
> 
> Plus, why use an 80mm fan when you can use a 120mm fan?
> 
> I'm just waiting on one more radiator fan and then I can finally assemble this thing...


This is awsome I need one of these things. How much did the parts run you?


----------



## masgreko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So am I the only one wondering what happened with the FCPU thread? No explanation either.


I was just looking for it. Was it taken down?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> Some updated pics of my rig. Swapped the UP7 for the G1 Sniper 5


Nice build! This makes me regret not getting the gigabyte sniper board over my msi mpower max. Can I ask why you didn't add the mobo to your loop? Ek sells waterblocks for that board to I think if you didn't want to use the included barbs.


----------



## morencyam

It was getting very confrontational in that thread. A lot of arguments over speculation and assumption. Then people started trashing the FCPU's personal life. I knew it was locked, but I was unaware it was completely removed


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It was getting very confrontational in that thread. A lot of arguments over speculation and assumption. Then people started trashing the FCPU's personal life. I knew it was locked, but I was unaware it was completely removed


Meh no reason to really. I thought about just taking off most of the heatsinks anyways. I might do it later on if I get bored, but just put it in last night so time will tell.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> ||General Membership||
> 
> You may NOT:
> Post questions/remarks pertaining to infractions, warnings or deleted posts. Please contact overclock.net staff directly.


If you have any issue with that thread being deleted you should contact lemans81 or ENTERPRISE.


----------



## Gabrielzm

While the official result is not out yet, but since the poll is closed, I would like to congratulate @lowfat for the awesome build and for winning the MOTM. Hats off to you mate, the praise you got is well deserved


----------



## twoofswords

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> This is awsome I need one of these things. How much did the parts run you?


The thing is you can probably do better with the newer MCP50x pump as a base versus the MCP35x pump that I am using. In fact, some would say that the newer design of the MCP50x is not reliant on a heatsink as much as its predecessor.

But, in the event I do upgrade from the MCP35x to the MCP50x, I still would keep the heatsink. Although I have not been able to test it out yet, it appears that the pump and the case are effectively decoupled with this arrangement.

Used MCP35x on ebay: $70ish _compared_ to a New MCP50x retail: $69.95

Bitspower 120 Water Tank Mount Panel: $12.99

Swiftech 35x Heat Sink: $14.95

Fan and screw-less fan mount were extras that I had laying around.

The only major downside to the entire setup is its much less compact than the pump by itself.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twoofswords*
> 
> The thing is you can probably do better with the newer MCP50x pump as a base versus the MCP35x pump that I am using. In fact, some would say that the newer design of the MCP50x is not reliant on a heatsink as much as its predecessor.
> 
> But, in the event I do upgrade from the MCP35x to the MCP50x, I still would keep the heatsink. Although I have not been able to test it out yet, it appears that the pump and the case are effectively decoupled with this arrangement.
> 
> Used MCP35x on ebay: $70ish _compared_ to a New MCP50x retail: $69.95
> 
> Bitspower 120 Water Tank Mount Panel: $12.99
> 
> Swiftech 35x Heat Sink: $14.95
> 
> Fan and screw-less fan mount were extras that I had laying around.
> 
> The only major downside to the entire setup is its much less compact than the pump by itself.


Yeah it is pretty bulky. I just picked up a brand new ddc pump from a friend for 35$ and ordered an ek xtop from performance pc along with a 970 strix waterblock and a motherboard waterblock. Hoping to hide the pump under the psu should in the haf x case I'm doing a build in. Had an ek 4.0 pump for the build until I picked this up for a steal and figured I'd have a better chance of it fitting under the shroud than the 4.0 or a d5. I Have A D5 In My Main Rig And It's huge!


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twoofswords*
> 
> New MCP50x retail: $69.95


I just installed my 50X Sunday - and its *amazing*

Hasn't skipped a beat and I'm running it @ 3600rpm

I left a sound test review here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1516369/my-review-of-the-swiftech-mcp50x-pump/230#post_23521195 comparing it to my case fans. The pump in the video is running 4600RPM (or close to full speed).


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I just installed my 50X Sunday - and its *amazing*
> 
> Hasn't skipped a beat and I'm running it @ 3600rpm
> 
> I left a sound test review here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1516369/my-review-of-the-swiftech-mcp50x-pump/230#post_23521195 comparing it to my case fans. The pump in the video is running 4600RPM (or close to full speed).


Will it work with the ek xtop pump top I just bought?


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Will it work with the ek xtop pump top I just bought?


You cannot take apart the 50X at all, what you see is what you get sir. Its molded together (I did not know this til after purchase*). I did not purchase for aesthetics though, I purchased because it is Swiftech's in-house pump and it has the best headroom / flow rate of any budget pump.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Will it work with the ek xtop pump top I just bought?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> You cannot take apart the 50X at all, what you see is what you get sir. Its molded together (I did not know this til after purchase*). I did not purchase for aesthetics though, I purchased because it is Swiftech's in-house pump and it has the best headroom / flow rate of any budget pump.


Well let's be clear here, you can take it apart. You also void warranty. It also would not serve his purpose as this is not compatible with the DDC tops/reservoirs anyway so there's no point.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> You cannot take apart the 50X at all, what you see is what you get sir. Its molded together (I did not know this til after purchase*). I did not purchase for aesthetics though, I purchased because it is Swiftech's in-house pump and it has the best headroom / flow rate of any budget pump.


Oh ok darn. That wouldn't interest me then I'm all about the looks of stuff. Watercooling really expensive I atleast like the stuff I buy to look how I want it too. I mean it's not the ugliest pump in the world but I love putting uv leds in my pump tops so my uv coolant glows through.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well let's be clear here, you can take it apart. You also void warranty. It also would not serve his purpose as this is not compatible with the DDC tops/reservoirs anyway so there's no point.


Your right, you can take it apart - maybe its the warranty sticker I was thinking about when I said "not being able to take it apart". I knew there was a reason (long days and nights - php, css, php, more css, some html, some linux programming, some seo, more php, css, html - it goes on)

*bows*


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Oh ok darn. That wouldn't interest me then I'm all about the looks of stuff. Watercooling really expensive I atleast like the stuff I buy to look how I want it too. I mean it's not the ugliest pump in the world but I love putting uv leds in my pump tops so my uv coolant glows through.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Eh, that setup is leet sir


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Eh, that setup is leet sir


Thanks!! Wait till you see the one I'm working on right now. Also once I'm done with the next one this one is getting redone to make all the tubing runs shorter with 90s and I got a bunch of white monsoons with black carbon fiber rings. And I'm getting custom purple and yellow sleeved cables to match!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Small Little Update. Space is Perfect (Actually A little Tight) lmao But we will work with it.

The Cautious One


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small Little Update. Space is Perfect (Actually A little Tight) lmao But we will work with it.
> 
> The Cautious One


Look at that clearance..Sexy

How are those fans your running there? I keep eyeballing them...


----------



## fleetfeather

so, are we actually all good to order from FCPU, or not? i'm in need of a item which I can't buy locally


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> so, are we actually all good to order from FCPU, or not? i'm in need of a item which I can't buy locally


Quote:


> FrozenCPU NOT Shutting Its Doors!
> We just heard back from Mark Friga, the owner of FrozenCPU.com, a long time enthusiast community supplier, and he explained to me that FrozenCPU is in fact not going out of business as rumored earlier today. He said that FrozenCPU is currently running a skeleton crew and to please bare with his company while it is ramping back up to 100% employee capacity


Source
http://www.hardocp.com/news/2015/02/10/frozencpu_shutting_its_doors#.VNxYKXn9

I would just wait a few days looks like even if you do order and rumours are correct then it will take a while to process your order

another unreliable news source
http://www.overclock3d.net/articles/cases_cooling/frozencpu_reportedly_closes_its_doors/1


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> so, are we actually all good to order from FCPU, or not? i'm in need of a item which I can't buy locally


No. It will probably be back up and running smoothly sooner rather than later but only the people left could tell you for sure and until that has been verified I would order elsewhere.


----------



## fleetfeather

righto fellas, cheers for the info. guess ill hold out and see what comes of it all

(also, wow! those photos of the FCPU offices!)


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small Little Update. Space is Perfect (Actually A little Tight) lmao But we will work with it.
> 
> The Cautious One


Painted the CPU bracket thing? Does it come off or did you just tape of the EK acrylic bits.


----------



## Ceadderman

Comes apart just like. previous metal bracket Supers.









~Ceadder


----------



## dean_8486




----------



## Rahldrac

What coolant are you using ?


----------



## dean_8486

Mayhems pastel sunset yellow, it comes in 1L bottles or concentrate, the stuff is excellent I have used it in a few builds and never had any issues at all.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*






Ooommmggg


----------



## guitarhero23

Nice work!


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> Mayhems pastel sunset yellow, it comes in 1L bottles or concentrate, the stuff is excellent I have used it in a few builds and never had any issues at all.


Looks really good and reminds me about orange-juice.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Look at that clearance..Sexy
> 
> How are those fans your running there? I keep eyeballing them...


I love the Spectre Pro's! Very nice design and very solid.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Painted the CPU bracket thing? Does it come off or did you just tape of the EK acrylic bits.


THe Supremacy Evo or I believe any Ek Supremacy Comes apart.









THe Cautious ONe


----------



## Bluemustang

Well isnt PPCS just lovely? First theyre out of stock on an item that was said to have 18 in stock when i ordered.....that put my build on hold for a week. I also had to contact them about a defective ek terminal for my gpu blocks and i had them send me out a new one. Guess what? Wrong terminal.....and more yet? Missing part from the monsoon bending kit.

My build has been put on hold forever because of them and my computer is in a state of limbo while i am forced to use this garbage laptop.

I just hope that all those gallons of distilled i bought for cleaning my loop that are sitting in the hallway for the last 2 weeks waiting to be used are still good?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Well isnt PPCS just lovely? First theyre out of stock on an item that was said to have 18 in stock when i ordered.....that put my build on hold for a week. I also had to contact them about a defective ek terminal for my gpu blocks and i had them send me out a new one. Guess what? Wrong terminal.....and more yet? Missing part from the monsoon bending kit.
> 
> My build has been put on hold forever because of them and my computer is in a state of limbo while i am forced to use this garbage laptop.
> 
> I just hope that all those gallons of distilled i bought for cleaning my loop that are sitting in the hallway for the last 2 weeks waiting to be used are still good?


Yeah...great.... I really hope there isn't a problem with my mobo block or gpu block I just ordered from them







(

My first order I put in wad pending for days so I called them and figured I'd add some other stuff to the order since it didn't go out yet. So I added mobo blocks a few fittings and some lamptron alot covers. The order was shipped in an hour. So maybe try calling them every time I make an order lol. I talked to the same guy 8 times to try and solve my problem.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Well isnt PPCS just lovely? First theyre out of stock on an item that was said to have 18 in stock when i ordered.....that put my build on hold for a week. I also had to contact them about a defective ek terminal for my gpu blocks and i had them send me out a new one. Guess what? Wrong terminal.....and more yet? Missing part from the monsoon bending kit.
> 
> My build has been put on hold forever because of them and my computer is in a state of limbo while i am forced to use this garbage laptop.
> 
> I just hope that all those gallons of distilled i bought for cleaning my loop that are sitting in the hallway for the last 2 weeks waiting to be used are still good?


Sorry to hear about all your issues, I hope you get them sorted quickly. On the subject of the water, think about this:

It was bottled, then it was put on a pallet for shipping to a retailer and who knows how long it might have sat before it was shipped to a retailer. Once in the hands of the retailer it probably sat on same pallet in their warehouse for a while before being taken to an actual retail store, then you have no way of knowing how long it sat in the backroom or on the shelf of said store before you purchased it. I'd wager that it sitting in you hallway for a week or 12 probably won't hurt it, as long as you haven't opened them. I'm not trying to be rude so please don't take my logic as such, I work in grocery retail and would also like to add I doubt your hallway is dirtier than all the places that the case of water has already traveled since it was bottled - from warehouses to trucks etc.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Sorry to hear about all your issues, I hope you get them sorted quickly. On the subject of the water, think about this:
> 
> It was bottled, then it was put on a pallet for shipping to a retailer and who knows how long it might have sat before it was shipped to a retailer. Once in the hands of the retailer it probably sat on same pallet in their warehouse for a while before being taken to an actual retail store, then you have no way of knowing how long it sat in the backroom or on the shelf of said store before you purchased it. I'd wager that it sitting in you hallway for a week or 12 probably won't hurt it, as long as you haven't opened them. I'm not trying to be rude so please don't take my logic as such, I work in grocery retail and would also like to add I doubt your hallway is dirtier than all the places that the case of water has already traveled since it was bottled - from warehouses to trucks etc.


Sure i expect once its distilled/cleaned its good to go. But in my head i kind of imagined how plastic is semi-breathable so maybe idk...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Bitspower Z-multi 250 or EK-RES X3 250, which to choose? Any advantages for the one or the other?


----------



## 01010011

Hi everyone, this is the rig I've been working on for the last months.
It's not completely finished yet, let's say 90% done.














Forgive me for the bad quality of the pictures


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Nice purple.


----------



## electro2u

Probably just me but it seems like purple git popular suddenly. Not suggesting I started the trend but it does look very nice.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Probably just me but it seems like purple git popular suddenly. Not suggesting I started the trend but it does look very nice.


Its Different and that's what people hope for sometimes.









TCO


----------



## emsj86

Ppc is hit or miss. I've had good experiences and bad. They ship fast to my house but if anything is wrong there not the easiest to work with. I forget the name of the guy but someone here pointed me to a guy from ppc that is on this site and after speaking with him my issues were fixed fast. Maybe someone knows who that is so he could help others. And a picture of some new darkside leds. Which need some dimmers (I'll make or find something to use to help defuse the glare)


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

I was first on the purple train....all you other guys are just copiers... ; ))

Here's my current project. Got the mobo block installed and I got lamptron uv green slot covers to cover most of the rest of the green. Since my build is green and black...lol


----------



## pc-illiterate

the first purple i remember seeing


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the first purple i remember seeing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah The Chimera.
















THe Cautious One


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the first purple i remember seeing


That's simply stunning. Was going to post mine but after you posted that there's no point....I guess I will anyway.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, how are you?
I need some help, I posted this on Lian-li thread but with no answer until now, so I hope some one here could help me. I'm planning to use this http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/bp1sata/ on my Cosmos II but theres some lack of specs about this item, I didnt found any more specs and measures of these "adapter" and I was planning to use it on the lower cages of the cosmos, You think it's possible to do this? And I found no reviews or tests about it so I don't know if its a good idea to use it.

Thanks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello guys, how are you?
> I need some help, I posted this on Lian-li thread but with no answer until now, so I hope some one here could help me. I'm planning to use this http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/bp1sata/ on my Cosmos II but theres some lack of specs about this item, I didnt found any more specs and measures of these "adapter" and I was planning to use it on the lower cages of the cosmos, You think it's possible to do this? And I found no reviews or tests about it so I don't know if its a good idea to use it.
> 
> Thanks.


Looks Like a 5.25" Bay Fit.. Or is that not the question?

The Cautious ONe


----------



## sinnedone

Looks like 3.5 bay size to me. As long as you align it correctly and it can bolt in correctly by making holes etc than it should be pretty straight forward.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks like 3.5 bay size to me. As long as you align it correctly and it can bolt in correctly by making holes etc than it should be pretty straight forward.










WOw.... That is what I meant to say.... Yea Its been a long day.

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

I made a solo thread about this. but this thread has more exposure.. what u guys think of the koolance D5/pmp45S pump top


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Looks Like a 5.25" Bay Fit.. Or is that not the question?
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks like 3.5 bay size to me. As long as you align it correctly and it can bolt in correctly by making holes etc than it should be pretty straight forward.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOw.... That is what I meant to say.... Yea Its been a long day.
> 
> TCO


It was what I was wonder to be, but I was worried about it because the lack of info on the official site, like measures. Another doubt is if its a good component, anyone had used it ? I just still didn't found a review about it, and don't know its a good idea to use maybe it will cause poor contact ?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Build ready to be put in case....just waiting on my rotary 90s from bitspower. Then after I ordered I saw somewhere that there were green bitspower fittings but could only find 1 in stock at ppcs.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

My Favorite Shot So Far.

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I made a solo thread about this. but this thread has more exposure.. what u guys think of the koolance D5/pmp45S pump top


Looks wise I like it. Go for it.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> My Favorite Shot So Far.
> 
> TCO


that... That case it's amazing.. Drool son lol


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Lutro0 hasn't reaupplied fcpu in quite a while now. Mainframe customs.com is Lutro0 products supplier most recently.


We have supplied them with some items such as combs - but they havent listed any of it... I guess some of it has to do with everything going on.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I just installed my 50X Sunday - and its *amazing*
> 
> Hasn't skipped a beat and I'm running it @ 3600rpm
> 
> I left a sound test review here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1516369/my-review-of-the-swiftech-mcp50x-pump/230#post_23521195 comparing it to my case fans. The pump in the video is running 4600RPM (or close to full speed).


Hate to burst your bubble, but that IS loud for a pump. Considerably louder than a D5 running on setting 5 (full RPM). Honestly, imo the only thing that DDC pumps are really good for are for space restricted cases. Otherwise, D5's make DDCs sound like a jet engine next to an electric powered vehicle.


----------



## alancsalt

Which one dies more often?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Hate to burst your bubble, but that IS loud for a pump. Considerably louder than a D5 running on setting 5 (full RPM). Honestly, imo the only thing that DDC pumps are really good for are for space restricted cases. Otherwise, D5's make DDCs sound like a jet engine next to an electric powered vehicle.


I don't know if that is true, I have a d5 and a ddc and I feel like they are both sound about the same. Maybe it depends on the brand?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> We have supplied them with some items such as combs - but they havent listed any of it... I guess some of it has to do with everything going on.


Speaking of cable combs... Keep checking mainframecustom and most are out of stock =(
Also can you do an 18 pin stealth? Seasonic N N


----------



## fleetfeather

Sigh.... Not keen on spending $50 AUD to get a pump reservoir imported from PPCs.....


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Sigh.... Not keen on spending $50 AUD to get a pump reservoir imported from PPCs.....


What one are you looking for? And is it just a res your getting or a pump too??


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What one are you looking for? And is it just a res your getting or a pump too??


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14979/ex-pmp-180/Alphacool_DC-LT_Pump_Top_Reservoir_-_Plexi.html

I've already got the pump and pump top for it


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14979/ex-pmp-180/Alphacool_DC-LT_Pump_Top_Reservoir_-_Plexi.html
> 
> I've already got the pump and pump top for it


Oh nice!! I just bought an alphacool ddc with a pumptop today...the one with the pumptop was only ten more so why not right? Even though now I have an ek xtop ddc top sitting here without a pump now...I'm sure I'll use it someday.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> that... That case it's amazing.. Drool son lol


Caselabs are Life Changers
















TCO


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Caselabs are Life Changers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Seems to have lots of space !


----------



## lowfat

Case Labs IMO needs to hire some designers. It would be nice to see them making something other than large boxes that can fit a ton of stuff.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Seems to have lots of space !


Haha. The Space Is Only Temporary









We Are going to fill this thing up!

The Cautious One


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Haha. The Space Is Only Temporary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We Are going to fill this thing up!
> 
> The Cautious One


Looking forward to see some pic's later on.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/f0hI4RyEj

https://imageshack.com/i/p9JOKxVNj

Pic of the White HWlabs rads in the R5, just waiting on another res top and some braid before i get started.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/f0hI4RyEj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/p9JOKxVNj
> 
> Pic of the White HWlabs rads in the R5, just waiting on another res top and some braid before i get started.






Nice !


----------



## guitarhero23

I don't care to hear about people claiming white builds are "overdone", maybe on OCN a lot of people have been doing them but in the overall scheme of custom PCs? No way, it's still mostly black. Just because other people have done lots of white builds doesn't mean you should bash someone for doing one (seen in another thread, although bash isn't the right word). Looking good man, can't wait to see more.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Case Labs IMO needs to hire some designers. It would be nice to see them making something other than large boxes that can fit a ton of stuff.


Aesthetically they are a little lacking. Not that they are bad looking but a simple rectangle/box shape just doesn't do it for me.

Maybe a little in win style exterior flare with the caselabs modularity and ease of use.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Aesthetically they are a little lacking. Not that they are bad looking but a simple rectangle/box shape just doesn't do it for me.
> 
> Maybe a little in win style exterior flare with the caselabs modularity and ease of use.


This is exactly what I wanted to say but didn't know how to say it lol


----------



## s1laz

This is my old water cooled rig and my current rig. The old rig is a full swiftech kit with a 2800+ athlon xp @ 2500mhz and 500fsb and the new one is corsair h100i with i7 2600k @ 5056mhz.. Didn't realize how dirty my rig is guess it time for cleaning....


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1laz*
> 
> This is my old water cooled rig and my current rig. The old rig is a full swiftech kit with a 2800+ athlon xp @ 2500mhz and 500fsb and the new one is corsair h100i with i7 2600k @ 5056mhz.. Didn't realize how dirty my rig is guess it time for cleaning....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What case is that? Reminds me of a Thermaltake chassis of olde (fancy front wing doors, looks like their style







)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What case is that? Reminds me of a Thermaltake chassis of olde (fancy front wing doors, looks like their style
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


It looks like a modified Soprano.


----------



## s1laz

All i can really remember it was a coolermaster case. I know it was in Maximum PC for the gear of the year award but that was around 10 years ago lol. I do remember the thermaltake version of that case but if i remember right the thermaltake wasn't full metal like the coolermaster.


----------



## s1laz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What case is that? Reminds me of a Thermaltake chassis of olde (fancy front wing doors, looks like their style
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Cooler Master Wave it was in the Maximum PC 2003 Dream machine build. I can't believe that build is 12 years old.


----------



## lowfat

Thermaltake straight up copied the Wave. The Wave is 100% aluminum. And not thin crap either.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What case is that? Reminds me of a Thermaltake chassis of olde (fancy front wing doors, looks like their style
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like a modified Soprano.
Click to expand...

So close...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1laz*
> 
> Cooler Master Wave it was in the Maximum PC 2003 Dream machine build. I can't believe that build is 12 years old.


Yep it is the CM Wave, they have some similar styling... Thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thermaltake straight up copied the Wave. The Wave is 100% aluminum. And not thin crap either.


That's right, Thermaltake saved all their aluminum for their rads


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's right, Thermaltake saved all their aluminum for their rads


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1laz*
> 
> This is my old water cooled rig and my current rig. The old rig is a full swiftech kit with a 2800+ athlon xp @ 2500mhz and 500fsb and the new one is corsair h100i with i7 2600k @ 5056mhz.. Didn't realize how dirty my rig is guess it time for cleaning....


Having a hard time figuring out the flow in your first pictures. Could you explain it to me?


----------



## guitarhero23

Can someone link me to a good (preferably cheap) disconnect fitting (both male, and female links) that you know work together for whatever the most common size of flexible tubing is? I've done so much research and finally found what I need for the rigid acrylic part of my section that my brain isn't able to function to learn the flexible tubing and barb side of things, having a major brain fart.

Also if you can link my to the proper fitting that would connect that tube to a radiator AND link me to the tubing that would fit that whole thing I'll +rep the crap out of you.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Can someone link me to a good (preferably cheap) disconnect fitting (both male, and female links) that you know work together for whatever the most common size of flexible tubing is? I've done so much research and finally found what I need for the rigid acrylic part of my section that my brain isn't able to function to learn the flexible tubing and barb side of things, having a major brain fart.
> 
> Also if you can link my to the proper fitting that would connect that tube to a radiator AND link me to the tubing that would fit that whole thing I'll +rep the crap out of you.


I remember when I was first trying to Learn all the instructions and out. It deffinatly can be overwhelming.

http://koolance.com/products?path=62_60

here's the link to koolance website and the info on the quick disconnects. They don't leak at all. Maybe just have a paper towel ready for maybe 1 drip!! They are awsome. Then you'd obviously just match them to the sizess.
Might have to convert mm to standard sizing. Flexible tubing goes by inside diameter and outside diameter. The most common sizes are 3/8 Id 1/2 or 5/8 od.

And as far as connecting it to the rad you can use a barb, or a compression fitting personally I'd go for compression as it gives a pretty much garentee seal. If you use barbs get zip ties or clamps.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c409/s1203/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Compression-716_x_58_Compression-Page1.html

just make sure you match the Id and od of the tubing!! Good luck. If you really need a step by step guide just pm me I guess and I'll pick out the parts for you.


----------



## lowfat

The QD3s are awesome. Just don't buy the black ones. They have issues.

www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners/0_20

EDIT: Although they may have changed since then.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The QD3s are awesome. Just don't buy the black ones. They have issues.
> 
> www.overclock.net/t/1404275/black-koolance-quick-disconnect-owners/0_20
> 
> EDIT: Although they may have changed since then.


What kind of issues are we talking here. I do have shut off valves for be for the quick disconnects so hopefully that's enough...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What kind of issues are we talking here. I do have shut off valves for be for the quick disconnects so hopefully that's enough...


If you use the black ones at all the paint will turn blue over time. Horrible product.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If you use the black ones at all the paint will turn blue over time. Horrible product.


That is terrible.... and dissapointing. What brand would you reccommend? Bitzpower... I already have to order some 5, 7.5 , and 10mm extentions. So I may as well pick some new qdcs to go with my stacker...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If you use the black ones at all the paint will turn blue over time. Horrible product.
> 
> 
> 
> That is terrible.... and dissapointing. What brand would you reccommend? Bitzpower... I already have to order some 5, 7.5 , and 10mm extentions. So I may as well pick some new qdcs to go with my stacker...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

The Koolance QD's are the ones to get, just not their black ones.

The design and function is top tier, it's just that there have been issues with the black finish.

You pop them apart and maybe a single drop is lost, you really don't even need valves with them . . . they're that good.

Set up your QD's so that the line to the 360 has a female on the hose and a male on the rad, and then the line from the 360 to the 240 has a female on the 360 rad, and a male on the hose end so you can connect the line into the 360 directly into the line from the 360 to the 240 when you want the 360 out of the loop.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Anyone that was waiting for the USB / Aquabus Farbwerk lighting controller to come back in stock . . . PPCs had 20 of them when I checked just a bit ago.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-farbwerk-usb-aquabus-version.html

No more of the cables yet, but maybe soon, at least the Farby is there.

Darlene


----------



## lowfat

Why do they still have a Christmas backdrop?
http://smiliesftw.com/


----------



## sinnedone

Looks like a plain blue colored blueprint background on mine. (no snow)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks like a plain blue colored blueprint background on mine. (no snow)


Well then... Must have been in my pfsense / squid cache.


----------



## wermad

Official, frozencpu.com is dead. wow, how sad







.

Placed an order through ppcs.com. Shipping was actually about as cheap as you would get from frozencpu. Used the Valentine's day discount code. Meh, guess I'll have to go through AquaTuning for backplates.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Official, frozencpu.com is dead. wow, how sad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Placed an order through ppcs.com. Shipping was actually about as cheap as you would get from frozencpu. Used the Valentine's day discount code. Meh, guess I'll have to go through AquaTuning for backplates.


what's the valentine's code? I just ordered a custom 24 pin extention from ice modz on ebay. They seem to make a quality product and international shipping is only 2.00 couldn't beat it for a green and black extention made just how I wanted it done. Going to go for an 8 pin for my strix 970 too I ordered a green one the other day but I want them to match perfectly. Gunny how something so small could throw off a whole build and make it look like a 5 year old slapped it together.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> what's the valentine's code?


Spend $50-250 get 6% off: "ILUVPPCS-6"
Spend over $250 get 8% off: "ILUVPPCS-8"


----------



## Pimphare

@Ramzinho this guy made a lengthy video build log using that pump top. I was actually considering it myself a while ago.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Spend $50-250 get 6% off: "ILUVPPCS-6"
> Spend over $250 get 8% off: "ILUVPPCS-8"


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Koolance QD's are the ones to get, just not their black ones.
> 
> The design and function is top tier, it's just that there have been issues with the black finish.
> 
> You pop them apart and maybe a single drop is lost, you really don't even need valves with them . . . they're that good.
> 
> Set up your QD's so that the line to the 360 has a female on the hose and a male on the rad, and then the line from the 360 to the 240 has a female on the 360 rad, and a male on the hose end so you can connect the line into the 360 directly into the line from the 360 to the 240 when you want the 360 out of the loop.
> 
> Darlene


Ok awsome thanks for the advise was planning something like this. Was hoping not to have to use this huge thing but the stupid haf x case only accepts 1 360mm rad. For a used 184mm rad (dual 92mm fans) and I think I can get it to fit in the from if I cut out the hdd bays, what do you guys think? Should I use the stacker and have 3 360s in my loop or should I go for the 184mm rad and just keep it self containained. I mean I build the stacker to go with this build and space shouldn't be a problem I'm just thinking now that I would like it to stay as one self contained unit.

Here's my progress from yesterday...borrowed some tools and took off the alphacool ram waterblock and put on a hand polished ek nickel x4 monarch. What do you guys think. There is 8gb a 4x2 kit I found for 50$ of dominator gt. Just figured I won't use more than 8 gb for gaming and the waterblock directly connects to them, no messing with a hair dryer trying to pry heat sinks off ram. I'm really pissed that I ordered a 4x4 kit of dominator platinum and it's not able to be wc at all.....stupid.


anyways hope you guys like it. Waiting on my bitspower dual rotary 90s and my alphacool ddc310 pump, I orderes a custom black and green custom extention for the 24 pin as well. Hoping it arrives as it looks in the pics. Anywhere I can get cheap uv green 24 pin combs for the cheap?

Darnit...why do I always hear about things like this late. Just put in a huge order yesterday. Do you think if I contacted them and told them what happened and provided the code that they would refund me the 6 percent or am I just bieng a cheapskate?


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Official, frozencpu.com is dead. wow, how sad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Placed an order through ppcs.com. Shipping was actually about as cheap as you would get from frozencpu. Used the Valentine's day discount code. Meh, guess I'll have to go through AquaTuning for backplates.


I thought there wasn't an official statement from FrozenCPU yet?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> what's the valentine's code? I just ordered a custom 24 pin extention from ice modz on ebay. They seem to make a quality product and international shipping is only 2.00 couldn't beat it for a green and black extention made just how I wanted it done. Going to go for an 8 pin for my strix 970 too I ordered a green one the other day but I want them to match perfectly. Gunny how something so small could throw off a whole build and make it look like a 5 year old slapped it together.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Spend $50-250 get 6% off: "ILUVPPCS-6"
> Spend over $250 get 8% off: "ILUVPPCS-8"
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1540523/perfomancepcs-valentine-sale-6-8-discount

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I thought there wasn't an official statement from FrozenCPU yet?


Quote:


> Current Status (6:30pm EST):
> Primochill announces the end of FrozenCPU on their Facebook page at 5:37pm 2/13:
> Quote:
> After hearing from Mark earlier this week, we had high hopes that FrozenCPU would recover from whatever hardship occurred. However, we have not received any further indication that this is happening anytime in the near future. This is definitely a hard hit to the community and the industry. We have so much compassion for all affected. Although we have the utmost respect for FrozenCPU, we also are concerned for our customers and resellers that have been derailed by this situation and are desperately looking for our products.
> In response to this, we have decided to re-open our online shop for end users, and will again start accepting new reseller applications shortly. We will be working day and night to get the website functional as soon as possible. Your patience during this time is much appreciated.
> The loss of Frozen CPU is the end of the Era and we will all miss the great contributions that they made to the computer modification industry.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1540656/sourced-frozencpu-shuts-its-doors#post_23525555

Rip FCPU.com







, good luck to the old employees and hope the owner finds help.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2354220/width/350/height/700[/IMG]




FROZEN CPU!!!! COME BACK!!!

The Cautious One


----------



## Ceadderman

RIP Frozen.

Have gotta say that CM Enthusiast cases are still solid considering how long they been pumping them out. Although they could improve upon the looks of the HAF line. Which is why I am modding the hades out of mine. Maybe they will take notes.









I am down to figuring out the rear I/O cover and how to mount the radiator mounts on the front of the cabinet. I am trying my best to confine my Dremel work to the doors. But am thinking that the fan mounts may have to go off the interior front. They are gonna interfere with my Swiftech 360 mounting barckets.









~Ceadder


----------



## lowfat

When CM stopped using aluminum, I stopped buying them.









Their cases use to be so well made. My Stacker 830 interior is all 2.5mm thick aluminum. Now all they use is steel and plastic.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> what's the valentine's code? I just ordered a custom 24 pin extention from ice modz on ebay. They seem to make a quality product and international shipping is only 2.00 couldn't beat it for a green and black extention made just how I wanted it done. Going to go for an 8 pin for my strix 970 too I ordered a green one the other day but I want them to match perfectly. Gunny how something so small could throw off a whole build and make it look like a 5 year old slapped it together.


I got some sample sleeve from icemodz and it was really high quality sleeve. I've also seen some of their work in a few build logs and it's always looks top notch. The customer service was really good too. They actually sent me about 2 feet of three different colors of sleeve free of charge.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> When CM stopped using aluminum, I stopped buying them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Their cases use to be so well made. My Stacker 830 interior is all 2.5mm thick aluminum. Now all they use is steel and plastic.


I would much rather have Steel over Aluminium. Yes it's a bit heavier to pick up but it's sturdier than you might imagine and with my case only the top and the face are plastic. Although the X they overdid the plastic pieces and kept the ones they had from the 932. I'm reworking mine with Acrylic and keeping the *most* of the steel. So weight is being shaved a bit since I've removed the Bays from the interior. Also the middle bits on the face are being replaced as well as the top.*All* cabling has been removed except for the essential bits as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would much rather have Steel over Aluminium. Yes it's a bit heavier to pick up but it's sturdier than you might imagine and with my case only the top and the face are plastic. Although the X they overdid the plastic pieces and kept the ones they had from the 932. I'm reworking mine with Acrylic and keeping the *most* of the steel. So weight is being shaved a bit since I've removed the Bays from the interior. Also the middle bits on the face are being replaced as well as the top.*All* cabling has been removed except for the essential bits as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Once you go CaseLabs you never go back though


----------



## wermad

Had three, haven't been back tbh. Only case I would switch to would be a DD-DW-29. Waiting on DCC to start up and I may switch. Tbh, 900D is working fine for me, its hard not to switch when I bought it very cheap.

New blocks and gpu setup incoming











Going to switch the Alpha copper plugs for some inexpensive xspc chrome plugs to match the rest of the rig.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would much rather have Steel over Aluminium. Yes it's a bit heavier to pick up but it's sturdier than you might imagine and with my case only the top and the face are plastic. Although the X they overdid the plastic pieces and kept the ones they had from the 932. I'm reworking mine with Acrylic and keeping the *most* of the steel. So weight is being shaved a bit since I've removed the Bays from the interior. Also the middle bits on the face are being replaced as well as the top.*All* cabling has been removed except for the essential bits as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you go CaseLabs you never go back though
Click to expand...

I won't be getting CL in quite some time. New bundle of joy and modding costs negate BIG purchases atm.









~Ceadder


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I won't be getting CL in quite some time. New bundle of joy and modding costs negate BIG purchases atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I had to make that choice...lots of new parts or a long term case...personally, if I had my time over I'd do the exact same thing. It all comes down to what you want to achieve though


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I won't be getting CL in quite some time. New bundle of joy and modding costs negate BIG purchases atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just be careful with used CL. If you plan to get one, I would highly recommend get a model that can be broken down. And make sure the seller does break it down for shipping. I've seen quite a few and know through first hand experience what happens to whole cases shipped w/ improper packaging.

Back to water! Wondering if there's a thread w/ the shops? Lots of folks are scrambling for new places to pick up gear. Some didn't even know ppcs.com existed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I won't be getting CL in quite some time. New bundle of joy and modding costs negate BIG purchases atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to make that choice...lots of new parts or a long term case...personally, if I had my time over I'd do the exact same thing. It all comes down to what you want to achieve though
Click to expand...

Well tbqh, I'm dedicated to finishing up this 932 build. Although since my plans got out and other members did what I had planned to, I have cut back my grandiose scheme a bit and just want to gitRdone! Mostly focusing on Cooling and Case mod. System parts are taking a back seat to the new baby stuffs we have to buy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> quote name="Ceadderman" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/79550#post_23542795"]
> I won't be getting CL in quite some time. New bundle of joy and modding costs negate BIG purchases atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just be careful with used CL. If you plan to get one, I would highly recommend get a model that can be broken down. And make sure the seller does break it down for shipping. I've seen quite a few and know through first hand experience what happens to whole cases shipped w/ improper packaging.

Back to water! Wondering if there's a thread w/ the shops? Lots of folks are scrambling for new places to pick up gear. Some didn't even know ppcs.com existed.[/quote]

How could they not? I mean with all the bad publicity I see whenever someone mentions them.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well tbqh, I'm dedicated to finishing up this 932 build. Although since my plans got out and other members did what I had planned to, I have cut back my grandiose scheme a bit and just want to gitRdone! Mostly focusing on Cooling and Case mod. System parts are taking a back seat to the new baby stuffs we have to buy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just be careful with used CL. If you plan to get one, I would highly recommend get a model that can be broken down. And make sure the seller does break it down for shipping. I've seen quite a few and know through first hand experience what happens to whole cases shipped w/ improper packaging. [/SPOILER]
> 
> Back to water! Wondering if there's a thread w/ the shops? Lots of folks are scrambling for new places to pick up gear. Some didn't even know ppcs.com existed.
> 
> How could they not? I mean with all the bad publicity I see whenever someone mentions them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's where I'm glad my soon to be in my possession used CL will be a local pick-up


----------



## DoktorTerror

seems complete .... seems!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1509085/sponsored-new-line-orange-update-pag-3-loop-completed/40_20#post_23543139


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would much rather have Steel over Aluminium. Yes it's a bit heavier to pick up but it's sturdier than you might imagine and with my case only the top and the face are plastic. Although the X they overdid the plastic pieces and kept the ones they had from the 932. I'm reworking mine with Acrylic and keeping the *most* of the steel. So weight is being shaved a bit since I've removed the Bays from the interior. Also the middle bits on the face are being replaced as well as the top.*All* cabling has been removed except for the essential bits as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Aluminum is so much easier to mod.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> seems complete .... seems!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1509085/sponsored-new-line-orange-update-pag-3-loop-completed/40_20#post_23543139


Awesome! Love your dual pump setup, sadly i can't do anything like that (







). Make sure to post in the Obsidian club


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome! Love your dual pump setup, sadly i can't do anything like that (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Make sure to post in the Obsidian club


thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would much rather have Steel over Aluminium. Yes it's a bit heavier to pick up but it's sturdier than you might imagine and with my case only the top and the face are plastic. Although the X they overdid the plastic pieces and kept the ones they had from the 932. I'm reworking mine with Acrylic and keeping the *most* of the steel. So weight is being shaved a bit since I've removed the Bays from the interior. Also the middle bits on the face are being replaced as well as the top.*All* cabling has been removed except for the essential bits as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aluminum is so much easier to mod.
Click to expand...

Sometimes. Depends much on the thickness of the stock one is working with. Although aluminum is much more forgiving over steel. I imagine that is what you mean. I don't have a problem with aluminum at all other than it being "dirtier" to work with.

~Ceadder


----------



## Way2grouchy

Does anyone know if FCPU are still shipping out items already paid for? I'm still waiting on my water block I paid for on the 29th.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Does anyone know if FCPU are still shipping out items already paid for? I'm still waiting on my water block I paid for on the 29th.


Nope. If you laid with paypal, then call them asap and try to cancel your payment. If you haven't got the stuff by now it's not comming.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Does anyone know if FCPU are still shipping out items already paid for? I'm still waiting on my water block I paid for on the 29th.


i'd say that your order will arrive so long as FCPU has given you tracking info for your order. If they haven't published a tracking number..... you could be waiting a very long time


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

My second kit of dominator platinums came for my main rig!!



Got my ram block installed and the first run made!! Waiting on my 90s to arrive monday so I can finish running the tubing, and the extentions are on there Way from iceland so...ten days on those then one more $100 order for misc. Items like cables, uv green fans, and rad grill and 3m carbon fiber sticker paper to match my psu shroud and rad to my monsoon fittings.



Then this is it with the stacker 915 with 2 360 rads mounted on it and it's own pump to help it cool efficiently!! With it sitting on the haf x it sits about at my waste. This is a huge pc!!!



And here's a link too the stacker project if you want to see what it's made of and a 360 view with the top blower back!! Lol tell me what you guys think. Covering up the white rad already and throwing a rad grill on it so that ugly Ness will be taken care of don't worry!!!

http://imgur.com/a/I2hYf


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Nope. If you laid with paypal, then call them asap and try to cancel your payment. If you haven't got the stuff by now it's not comming.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> i'd say that your order will arrive so long as FCPU has given you tracking info for your order. If they haven't published a tracking number..... you could be waiting a very long time


That sucks no tracking yet. Guess ill have to contact paypal.


----------



## s1laz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Having a hard time figuring out the flow in your first pictures. Could you explain it to me?


I been over clocking since the 90's but this was my first attempt at water in 2004 so i was clueless. i ended up having to redo how the loop was setup because the setup you see wasnt working. My thinking was when i put the loop together was i didnt want the gpu heating up the water before it went to the cpu or vise versa so i ran a Y fitting to run the water separate to the cpu and NB/video card. What happend was it took more pressure to push the water through the cpu block than the northbridge and video card so more water would push through the nb/video card than the cpu. I took out the Y pipes out and everything worked fine then. i just never took any pictures since the day that i built it.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1laz*
> 
> I been over clocking since the 90's but this was my first attempt at water in 2004 so i was clueless. i ended up having to redo how the loop was setup because the setup you see wasnt working. My thinking was when i put the loop together was i didnt want the gpu heating up the water before it went to the cpu or vise versa so i ran a Y fitting to run the water separate to the cpu and NB/video card. What happend was it took more pressure to push the water through the cpu block than the northbridge and video card so more water would push through the nb/video card than the cpu. I took out the Y pipes out and everything worked fine then. i just never took any pictures since the day that i built it.


Ok I see so bassically before you knew that loop order didn't matter besides the res comming before he pump. Then after that it doesn't really matter. When I did my first wc build I thought the same thing so after my cpu I figured I'd have to put another rad before going to my gpu. Now I know that there is only a 3 degree difference max anywhere in your loop. Plus I think now a days everything has much better performance and the pumps are awsome so you can pretty much do anything your little heart desires!!


----------



## khemist

Quick question, anyone had any problems ordering from e22?, i ordered a bunch of rad screws and some braid/shrink on the fifth of feb and it's not been delivered.

I've tried to contact twice but no answer, i'll have to put in a pp dispute if it doesn't arrive before the money is due to be taken out.


----------



## fleetfeather

You know that "soft copper tubing" that FCPU was selling? What did it actually look like in a system? Any build logs or photoshoots involving it?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> You know that "soft copper tubing" that FCPU was selling? What did it actually look like in a system? Any build logs or photoshoots involving it?


Ehh. It looked alright at best. Google search it there are a bunch of pics of builds of it...


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Quick question, anyone had any problems ordering from e22?, i ordered a bunch of rad screws and some braid/shrink on the fifth of feb and it's not been delivered.
> 
> I've tried to contact twice but no answer, i'll have to put in a pp dispute if it doesn't arrive before the money is due to be taken out.


items wont ship until payment has cleared









have you paid by E cheque?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It finally arrived!


----------



## jodybdesigns

Mmm mmm mmmmm...


----------



## 97discosd

So jealous that's a sexy case


----------



## Malik

My also arrived ... now im waiting for rest of stuff.


----------



## sinnedone

Mmmmmm the things I would do that case.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> My also arrived ... now im waiting for rest of stuff.


I dint think these were for sale..how much did you pay for it...and if I remember correctly u saw they am were only going to make 500 of them is this true?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> items wont ship until payment has cleared
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have you paid by E cheque?


Paypal.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I dint think these were for sale..how much did you pay for it...and if I remember correctly u saw they am were only going to make 500 of them is this true?


He's on the list.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Does anyone know if FCPU are still shipping out items already paid for? I'm still waiting on my water block I paid for on the 29th.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Nope. If you laid with paypal, then call them asap and try to cancel your payment. If you haven't got the stuff by now it's not comming.
Click to expand...

This.

At this point, anyone that has placed an order w/ fcpu and has not recieved any tracking after two business days, contact paypal or your bank (card you used). Get your money back. Sadly, fcpu has gone the way of the dodo. Though, some folks who placed their order's last week have been getting them. I think the fallout started on the 7th. Either way, I would just get your money back to go to ppcs.com.

You can follow the drama here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1540656/sourced-frozencpu-shuts-its-doors


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

It's comming along!! Got a light pai tjob today now just waiting for my bitspower dual rotaries and my $200 ppcs.com order of uv green stuff!


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> He's on the list.


Wow that's awsome wish I was on the list..but I don't have the money to throw into another build right now after two in two months lol. I can't wait to see what the 8 look like when they are done!!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> It's comming along!! Got a light pai tjob today now just waiting for my bitspower dual rotaries and my $200 ppcs.com order of uv green stuff!


Looking very nice!


----------



## generalkayoss

It doesn't compare to some of you guys sweet custom loops, but i'll post it anyway


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Looking very nice!


Thank you very much can't wait to show it off when it's done hoping to make up for my last build with this one.

Last month's build.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Paypal.


I mean a paypal E cheque


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering if anyone else finds the D5 Strongs @24v make a bit of vibration ? Or is it just the ones I got 2nd hand ?

Oh they are only on a CPU and rad. In a Koolance RP-452X2

Just in case they don't like running without much resistance.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else finds the D5 Strongs @24v make a bit of vibration ? Or is it just the ones I got 2nd hand ?
> 
> Oh they are only on a CPU and rad. In a Koolance RP-452X2
> 
> Just in case they don't like running without much resistance.


Prolly just the bay res. It's transferring the vibration throughout the whole case. I have my d5 sitting on the bottom of my case and I can't hear or feel any vibrations really. You it try putting something in between the bay res and case if at all possible. And are you using two d5s or just one?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Went to the hobby store today and bought some model paint to cover up the red on the mobo with black since I'm going for a green and black theme...decided to pick up some green sparkle paint alone with florescent yellow to go over the top..these are my result what you guys think?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Prolly just the bay res. It's transferring the vibration throughout the whole case. I have my d5 sitting on the bottom of my case and I can't hear or feel any vibrations really. You it try putting something in between the bay res and case if at all possible. And are you using two d5s or just one?


In my other case the XSPC vario is sitting on the bottom @ speed 3. Can't hear it at all. I am not a big fan of this bay res. A pain in the rectum to bleed and get flowing.

Yes with two @24v it is crazy loud, but even one @24v it is still loud IMO.

Maybe I sell one with the res. and get a new tube res.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> In my other case the XSPC vario is sitting on the bottom @ speed 3. Can't hear it at all. I am not a big fan of this bay res. A pain in the rectum to bleed and get flowing.
> 
> Yes with two @24v it is crazy loud, but even one @24v it is still loud IMO.
> 
> Maybe I sell one with the res. and get a new tube res.


I have honestly never heard anything good about bay resiviors. Pain in the butt to fill and get the bubbles out is all I've ever heard don't think I've heard even one positive thing... I'll stick to my frozen q spiral resiviors. Bad a looking.



Chea.. want to buy another one for my current project but I already have way too much money into it as it is and my ek res works just fine. Someday I will get another. Plus if you actually order straight from frozen q you can get any color spiral you want including dual color like mine. Or just a uv one of whatever color you choose. Pretty awsome.


----------



## Jakusonfire

When comparing a single D5 vario with high restriction to dual 24 D5 strongs in a low restriction loop saying the vario is quieter is hardly going to be a revelation.

My experience with strongs in the RP452 was pretty much the same as you would get with any other dual top. The higher speed of the strongs can certainly speed up damage to impeller bearings so I would take a look at them for sure if it is extreme. You have to remember though that a faster spinning and more powerful pump will always vibrate more. Especially at the very high flow rate it most be pushing.
I can't say I ever tested it, but it would seem logical to me that pushing 15KG/min through a pump vs 5KG/min, Newton might say that any vibration will be magnified.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I have honestly never heard anything good about bay resiviors. Pain in the butt to fill and get the bubbles out


The Monsoon res is very good. If you do a fill port above the res it's a snap to fill. I find some Bay reservoirs to be great looking too. Gives a pop to front panel side if done with leds or pastel.


----------



## VSG

For the patient ones here like me, the EK RVE monoblock out: http://www.ekwb.com/news/570/19/EK-introduces-Rampage-V-Extreme-Monoblock/


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For the patient ones here like me, the EK RVE monoblock out: http://www.ekwb.com/news/570/19/EK-introduces-Rampage-V-Extreme-Monoblock/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just ordered the Original CSQ version . . . . all polished up, it'll match my 290X blocks









Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

I still like the bitspower version better but that's just me, but still a good looking block


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just ordered the Original CSQ version . . . . all polished up, it'll match my 290X blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Nice, looking forward to it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I still like the bitspower version better but that's just me, but still a good looking block


Yeah, I can see that. The BP one isn't really a monoblock though, but it does help them churn out blocks for a lot of different motherboards quickly.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was looking at one for a Rampage IV Black for a possible future build


----------



## wermad

Is it me, or is the top piece glazed? or just the effect of layers of acrylic?


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it me, or is the top piece glazed? or just the effect of layers of acrylic?


I think it's just the channels that have a frosted look, since they're carved out of the acrylic, whereas the chipset block is just a solid piece.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ill Rep anyone Who Can Link these to Performance Pcs. I just spend 30min and looked through over 1000 Fittings.

Thanks

TCO


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Ill Rep anyone Who Can Link these to Performance Pcs. I just spend 30min and looked through over 1000 Fittings.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> TCO


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17049/ex-tub-1484/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_White_BP-DWWP-C04.html


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17049/ex-tub-1484/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_White_BP-DWWP-C04.html


Just ordered one of these yesterday from ppcs.vom I will have to look through my history and get back with you!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17049/ex-tub-1484/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_White_BP-DWWP-C04.html


We can't order from Frozen. THey are shut down. I need them from PPC's.com

The Cautious ONe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Just ordered one of these yesterday from ppcs.vom I will have to look through my history and get back with you!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill Rep anyone Who Can Link these to Performance Pcs. I just spend 30min and looked through over 1000 Fittings.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> TCO


http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-deluxe-white.html


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> We can't order from Frozen. THey are shut down. I need them from PPC's.com
> 
> The Cautious ONe


It took 10 years for the pages to load but I eventually found it http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-deluxe-white.html


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> We can't order from Frozen. THey are shut down. I need them from PPC's.com
> 
> The Cautious ONe


For some reason I read FrozenCPU

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-deluxe-white.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-deluxe-white.html












Repped Kind Sir.

The Cautious One


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Ill Rep anyone Who Can Link these to Performance Pcs. I just spend 30min and looked through over 1000 Fittings.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> TCO


HAHAHA I had to do the same thing because I didn't want to lose my bookmarked page over at FCPU.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-deluxe-white.html

Edit: oh.... ninja'd hardcore. More than once. I just got excited because I did that same thing like yesterday.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

All were Repped who Replied within that Min. Thank you all for the Support.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Ill Rep anyone Who Can Link these to Performance Pcs. I just spend 30min and looked through over 1000 Fittings.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17049/ex-tub-1484/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_White_BP-DWWP-C04.html
Click to expand...

Lotta good a FCPU link is gonna do him . . . . FCPU being down for the count and all . . . .

Here's the PPCs link:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-deluxe-white.html

Darlene

Shaaazaaaammmm, super multi ninja'd on that one . . . no wonder the PPCs page loaded so damn slow . . .


----------



## slothiraptor

Is it just me or is ppcs slow for anyone else?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Lotta good a FCPU link is gonna do him . . . . FCPU being down for the count and all . . . .
> 
> Here's the PPCs link:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-deluxe-white.html
> 
> Darlene


Caught That One Too Eh Diva?









TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Is it just me or is ppcs slow for anyone else?


Everyone else. lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Everyone else. lol


He isn't alone. It was slow as glue for me.

TCO


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> He isn't alone. It was slow as glue for me.
> 
> TCO


Too much pictures and colors I think...

Those fittings are very sexy btw.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Too much pictures and colors I think...
> 
> Those fittings are very sexy btw.


Id Say thank you but I didn't make um









THe Cautious ONe.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> He isn't alone. It was slow as glue for me.
> 
> TCO


I'll jokingly say... You've never used GamesWorkshop superglue, have you. Bonds flesh in about.... 1.5 seconds or so, yet somehow it feels like it takes forever (5-8 seconds) to bond two resin parts together. ....Which reminds me, I should put on a podcast/mix or three and finish assembling one of the like twelve boxes of Games Workshop miniatures I still have to put together....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I'll jokingly say... You've never used GamesWorkshop superglue, have you. Bonds flesh in about.... 1.5 seconds or so, yet somehow it feels like it takes forever (5-8 seconds) to bond two resin parts together. ....Which reminds me, I should put on a podcast/mix or three and finish assembling one of the like twelve boxes of Games Workshop miniatures I still have to put together....


I guess I should Have said "Elmers Glue"









TCO


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I guess I should Have said "Elmers Glue"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Good point. The only way that stuff dries quick is... Well, making glueballs in your palm, and even then it takes at least 30 seconds or so to make a decent sized one


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> He isn't alone. It was slow as glue for me.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> I'll jokingly say... You've never used GamesWorkshop superglue, have you. *Bonds flesh in about.... 1.5 seconds or so*, yet somehow it feels like it takes forever (5-8 seconds) to bond two resin parts together. ....Which reminds me, I should put on a podcast/mix or three and finish assembling one of the like twelve boxes of Games Workshop miniatures I still have to put together....
Click to expand...

Its because thats what Cyanoacrylate was designed for,it started out as battlefield stiching for wounds.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> He isn't alone. It was slow as glue for me.
> 
> Slow for me too...I miss frozen cpu..
> 
> TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Speaking of PPC's:


----------



## jodybdesigns

Try Cyanoacrolite. It's a Korean super glue used to bond headlights.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Try Cyanoacrolite. It's a Korean super glue used to bond headlights.


What's he trying to glue or are you just saying in general? And I'm in the market for some superglue like stuff I have this stuff with "hot" in the name that you use with this aerosol can to spray it and it dries almost instantly. I want to try something new how long does that stuff your talking about take to dry initially, not all the way but atleast enough to hold whatever it is I'm gluing in place.


----------



## guitarhero23

What's a couple brackets for mounting a D5 EK pump top to be positioned on its side like this in a case (preferably as stealthy as possible).


Or does it come with something? Since this page looks like it has something.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What's a couple brackets for mounting a D5 EK pump top to be positioned on its side like this in a case (preferably as stealthy as possible).


That ek top comes with one. A simple metal sheet with two holes for the screws. you can see this here:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16419/ex-pmp-198/EK_D5_X-Top_Acetal_Pump_Top_CSQ_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655_EK-XTOP_D5_CSQ_-_Acetal.html?tl=g57c595s1935#blank

Some other adapters:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c595/s1946/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Pumps_-_Accessories-EK_Pump_Mounts-Page1.html


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That ek top comes with one. A simple metal sheet with two holes for the screws. you can see this here:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16419/ex-pmp-198/EK_D5_X-Top_Acetal_Pump_Top_CSQ_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655_EK-XTOP_D5_CSQ_-_Acetal.html?tl=g57c595s1935#blank
> 
> Some other adapters:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c595/s1946/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Pumps_-_Accessories-EK_Pump_Mounts-Page1.html


Would it be wise or not to just screw it into the base of the case? (CaseLabs S5)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Would it be wise or not to just screw it into the base of the case? (CaseLabs S5)


personally I would use some decoupling material on it. I use the shoggy sandwich which turn the d5 in to a very very quiet pump. My two d5 in the sma8 bottom section are set up like this using the defaul ek plate but with the shoggy sandwich between the pump and case.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21286/ex-pmp-259/Aquacomputer_Shoggy_Sandwich_Pump_Decoupling_Kit_-_Black_Black_.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Cautious One


----------



## MrMD

See with the Primochill compression resoviors,is it possible to have both the inlet and outlet on the same side,or do you have to have an inlet on one side and the out on the other?

Noob question i know


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*


That's not very... cautious


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


You're crazy man









Inspired by Linus' recent attempt?


----------



## skupples

Do you at least fill the PCI with clay / hot glue, or something?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You're crazy man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspired by Linus' recent attempt?


I wanted this thing White.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Do you at least fill the PCI with clay / hot glue, or something?


I put Cardboard in the Slots.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> That's not very... cautious
















Easily Could Have Come out better. Hmm

TCO


----------



## electro2u

Have you tested it tco?


----------



## fleetfeather

that's a quality five foot paint job


----------



## wermad




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Have you tested it tco?


No Test Yet
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> that's a quality five foot paint job


More like a 10Ft








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


Thanks... I Know.

TCO


----------



## fleetfeather

that pink sticker. pls remove.

pls


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> that pink sticker. pls remove.
> 
> pls


Just make sure to put it back on when rma is needed









Any one running BP aqualinks? (41-69mm)


----------



## ubbb69

Just finished my first custom loop. Went really well but i did a lot of research.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Oh man... SHould I just buy another?



The Cautious One


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just make sure to put it back on when rma is needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any one running BP aqualinks? (41-69mm)


I have two BP aqualinks in my box of tricks (41-69), but i haven't made use of them just yet


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubbb69*
> 
> Just finished my first custom loop. Went really well but i did a lot of research.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What case is this?!?!??!?!?!?!?! Looking great









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I have two BP aqualinks in my box of tricks (41-69), but i haven't made use of them just yet


Same here, been there for three months. Wanted to use the Koolance bridge but there's not oem blocking plate. I'm thinking of diy a few using acrylic but I'm really concerned w/ lots of new and expensive hardware going in. I'm worried about the weight of the cards. I know bridges really stiffen up a setup. The links, not sure how much rigidity they can add.


----------



## ubbb69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What case is this?!?!??!?!?!?!?! Looking great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thermal take core x9, and thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubbb69*
> 
> Thermal take core x9, and thanks


Wow, had i known about this...well...nm. Its TT, I already got burned by them, again.

Nice bends on the hardlines btw


----------



## mossberg385t

Hi! I suppose its time I joined the club


----------



## wermad

That's some phatty tube


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I have two BP aqualinks in my box of tricks (41-69), but i haven't made use of them just yet


I did also, don't even have sli, just wanted one.


----------



## bundymania

New toys, part 1


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I did also, don't even have sli, just wanted one.


I've got them saved up to serve as a quick'n'dirty was to suspend a pump in mid-air








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


i look forward to a review of the low noise edition pump, either on OCN or OCAU


----------



## bundymania

You can check out some new pump vids (flowrate & noise level) on my YT channel first


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one running BP aqualinks? (41-69mm)


I used them for 2-3 months than i "upgraded" to 3-sli with the smaller version.



I've never had a problem with them.


----------



## TONSCHUH

I use a smaller version to keep my 2 480-rad's connected and had no issues so far.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> What's he trying to glue or are you just saying in general? And I'm in the market for some superglue like stuff I have this stuff with "hot" in the name that you use with this aerosol can to spray it and it dries almost instantly. I want to try something new how long does that stuff your talking about take to dry initially, not all the way but atleast enough to hold whatever it is I'm gluing in place.


Just in general. If you want *hot and super fast drying*. Cyanoacrolite is the strongest glue hands down. We used it to hold the 3M weather stripping that goes around the headlight on cars. Once its glued, its *never* coming off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You're crazy man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspired by Linus' recent attempt?


More like I watched Linus destroy a perfect X99 board trying to make it blue lol


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You're crazy man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspired by Linus' recent attempt?


More like I watched Linus destroy a perfect X99 board trying to make it blue lol


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> 
> 
> I use a smaller version to keep my 2 480-rad's connected and had no issues so far.


What's the purpose of that? You have warm air from first rad used for second rad, so not effective. Sorry - maybe I'm missing something - I'm trying to learn/check my knowledge, not criticize.


----------



## VSG

Think of it like a 8x120mm rad instead

Edit: NVM, I didn't notice the fans in the middle. I thought the two were separate rads.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> What's the purpose of that? You have warm air from first rad used for second rad, so not effective. Sorry - maybe I'm missing something - I'm trying to learn/check my knowledge, not criticize.


No, it's justified. Tests have been done. Two separate radiators perform better than two sandwiched like that
SOURCE
Quote:


> The first, shocking realization is this: The stacked rads almost always perform worse than the solo rad with the same number of fans. The rest of the data is as expected: Two separate rads perform best, more fans are always better and the airflow going from warmer to cooler rad is slightly worse than the other way around.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New toys, part 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


-

Oh my!









It looks like ocool managed to get a hold of some GeLid Wings that have a rash or STD of some sort that they might want to have a doctor look at.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New toys, part 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> Oh my!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like ocool managed to get a hold of some GeLid Wings that have a rash or STD of some sort that they might want to have a doctor look at.
Click to expand...

Or it's just pock marks from all that flux they can't seem to fit in the rads









D.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> It doesn't compare to some of you guys sweet custom loops, but i'll post it anyway


Hey it definitely beats the hell out of air.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Speaking of PPC's:


No RRR even listed. All is right with the universe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubbb69*
> 
> Thermal take core x9, and thanks


Hah no wonder he didn't know. Nice job with it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> -
> 
> Oh my!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like ocool managed to get a hold of some GeLid Wings that have a rash or STD of some sort that they might want to have a doctor look at.


Nah, no way. They will be perfect for my All Alphacool dream system. Blue fans on one side and red eloops on the other side of a couple of rattling rads. Connected with spottily finished fittings to the overly restrictive CPU block and a couple of fuggly GPU blocks. All wired up with Phobya wiring for that pleasant plastic cooking smell.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> 
> 
> I use a smaller version to keep my 2 480-rad's connected and had no issues so far.


Is that how big EK rads make small EK rads?


----------



## Majentrix

Just a friendly reminder to clean your rads.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubbb69*
> 
> Just finished my first custom loop. Went really well but i did a lot of research.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any reason why you haven't connected the 3rd PCI-E power cable to your GPU?


----------



## ubbb69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Any reason why you haven't connected the 3rd PCI-E power cable to your GPU?


I am good to 1270 mhz on gpu with 2. I only run around 1200 daily so while i sleeve my other cable i am running 2. Hopefully i will have them all sleeved soon and hooked back up with all three. If i make it through the sleeving process


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> I used them for 2-3 months than i "upgraded" to 3-sli with the smaller version.
> 
> 
> 
> I've never had a problem with them.


I have two Vesuvius blocks coming in and knowing my experience w/ 590s & 690s, I know they tend to sag a bit. I can't use the Koolance bridge at all (unless i make soem blocking plates).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> 
> 
> I use a smaller version to keep my 2 480-rad's connected and had no issues so far.


I have two short ones as well and using one on my two monsta's:




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> -
> 
> Oh my!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like ocool managed to get a hold of some GeLid Wings that have a rash or STD of some sort that they might want to have a doctor look at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Or it's just pock marks from all that flux they can't seem to fit in the rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

Aren't the dimples supposed to move air faster? (ie, golf ball). Plus, I have seen clear color blades on cheap knock offs and good brand fans. As well as the ridges. Its pretty common for companies to mimic each other.


----------



## Rahldrac

Is fitting one of these:
http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/fittings/ball-valves/14218/phobya-2-way-ball-valve-g1/4-knurled

To the end of a tube a good way to drain a loop?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> 
> 
> Just a friendly reminder to clean your rads.


That's why I like using pull. Allows for easy clean up. Don't even have to remove the rads


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majentrix*
> 
> 
> 
> Just a friendly reminder to clean your rads.
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I like using pull. Allows for easy clean up. Don't even have to remove the rads
Click to expand...

I have run pull for as long as I have watercooled. And I still do need to clean the rads out properly (removing them etc, etc. I can't just dust the one side). Dust gets stuck between the rad and fan - maybe less so than push but still a fair amount.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah…the performance diff between push and pull is fairly negligible, right?


----------



## wermad

Depends on the rad and fans, it could be as high as ~30%.

I can only run one bank of fans for each rad in my case. So I'm compensating with more rad powah


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Depends on the rad and fans, it could be as high as ~30%.
> 
> I can only run one bank of fans for each rad in my case. So I'm compensating with more rad powah


This. Main reason I run push+pull isn't for the added performance, but for the reduced noise. I can get the same temps running push+pull at ~1200 rpm as I can with a single set of push or pull running at ~1800 rpm


----------



## ledzepp3

I really wish MIPS was still open







I've searched for a whole year and haven't found a single 4 DIMM memory block..

-Zepp


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This. Main reason I run push+pull isn't for the added performance, but for the reduced noise. I can get the same temps running push+pull at ~1200 rpm as I can with a single set of push or pull running at ~1800 rpm


I have fans down to 5v (~1000rpm) and they re pretty quiet. Wish I could add p/p







.

Top rad is pulling and the two bottom rads are pushing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I really wish MIPS was still open
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've searched for a whole year and haven't found a single 4 DIMM memory block..
> 
> -Zepp


I have seen a few six dimm blocks come up for sale but they're scarce. The four would be more rarer tbh. G/l


----------



## guitarhero23

Got a little too into too into doing a mock-up....Colors obviously aren't what's here and proportions are a bit off and I can't portray some 3D piping elements so it looks like it goes diagonal (res+rad to pump) but everything will be on perpendicular or parallel planes, but just wanted to get an idea for what I might possibly do. Spent more time than originally planned.

Two questions.

As long as my res is higher than the pump do you think it will have enough of a flow to go from one side of the case to the pump like in my diagram?
(Purely aesthetically) does anyone think it would look cool to put a 150 res (horizontally) in the upper back of the case (running width wise) which would run in the line between the CPU and the GPU. This would purely just be for uniqueness and to be "interesting/cool idea" so if you think it'll be ugly let me know now, I know it won't improve my temps)


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> What's the purpose of that? You have warm air from first rad used for second rad, so not effective. Sorry - maybe I'm missing something - I'm trying to learn/check my knowledge, not criticize.


The low fin-count of the rad's plus 2000rpm high-pressure fan's let perform the sandwich quite well and my temp's are ok.

It would be maybe more effected, if it would be inside a case.

There is a aircon close by and I didn't want to replace my Thermaltake Level-10 GT LCS at that stage.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Got a little too into too into doing a mock-up....Colors obviously aren't what's here and proportions are a bit off and I can't portray some 3D piping elements so it looks like it goes diagonal (res+rad to pump) but everything will be on perpendicular or parallel planes, but just wanted to get an idea for what I might possibly do. Spent more time than originally planned.
> 
> Two questions.
> 
> As long as my res is higher than the pump do you think it will have enough of a flow to go from one side of the case to the pump like in my diagram?
> (Purely aesthetically) does anyone think it would look cool to put a 150 res (horizontally) in the upper back of the case (running width wise) which would run in the line between the CPU and the GPU. This would purely just be for uniqueness and to be "interesting/cool idea" so if you think it'll be ugly let me know now, I know it won't improve my temps)


yes that res setup will work fine check out this that I did I was worried as well but as long as the water level stays higher than the pump it will push it to the pump..


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

One more tube to run then it's leak testing and waiting for the rest of the uv green parts to arrive..so long in the making and finnally starting to look like I imagined it.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Is that how big EK rads make small EK rads?


I have a 240-XTX inside and the 480-XTX-Sandwich behind my PC-Case and I like their 64mm thickness.


----------



## wermad

XT are around 45mmn xtx are 60mm


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> XT are around 45mmn xtx are 60mm


The xtx line is exactly 63mm thick I'm not positive on the xts


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> The xtx line is exactly 63mm thick I'm not positive on the xts


Correct, I think I was thinking of the core (much like the monstas 80mm core, 86 with the housing)








Quote:


> Dimensions (LxWxH): 400x130x64mm
> Weight: Approx. 1496g
> Liquid Capacity: Approx. 510 ml (17,25 fl oz)
> FPI: 11
> Fan installation: 12 x M3 threads on both sides each (for 3x120mm fan each)
> Pressure tested: 1ba


Edit:

47mm for the XT

38mm for the PE

Ekwb.com


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Correct, I think I was thinking of the core (much like the monstas 80mm core, 86 with the housing)


Wow that's good to know about the monsta rads...Was going to get one but literally have 107mm of space to put it with fans so..deffinatly not going to work thanks for the info!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Wow that's good to know about the monsta rads...Was going to get one but literally have 107mm of space to put it with fans so..deffinatly not going to work thanks for the info!


Yup, unfortunately, the specs can be overshadowed by the "screaming" features. I too was under the impression it was 80. It wasn't until someone pointed this was incorrect, I then pulled the schematics from αcool and verified it was 86mm. I think most sites now have the actual dimensions for over all thickness and not the core thickness for most radiators out there.

edit:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone know where I can buy a Bitspower block for a Asus Strix GTX 970, can't seem to find one from PPC's and def not on FCPU


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Anyone know where I can buy a Bitspower block for a Asus Strix GTX 970, can't seem to find one from PPC's and def not on FCPU


I'm not 100 percent positive but I'm pretty sure they haven't made one yet. I went with an ek block for mine and couldn't be happier.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Wow that's good to know about the monsta rads...Was going to get one but literally have 107mm of space to put it with fans so..deffinatly not going to work thanks for the info!


AC Monsta's aren't that great if you can't fit fans in push-pull, you're better off using 60mm rads if you're using a push or pull setup.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> AC Monsta's aren't that great if you can't fit fans in push-pull, you're better off using 60mm rads if you're using a push or pull setup.


Good thing I just ordered a hardware labs sr2 then huh lol.

The monsta would be 136mm thick with push pull...that's just unreasonable. The only reason I could see needing one would be if that was the only rad in your loop...


----------



## Ceadderman

Or if you had over 300mm free space available to parallel them.









There isn't that much space available in my case unless I mounted them outside. All I want on the exterior are my Intake fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or if you had over 300mm free space available to parallel them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There isn't that much space available in my case unless I mounted them outside. All I want on the exterior are my Intake fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


300mm...yeah no cases are comming to mine besides case labs..any others that this is possible with?


----------



## Laine

I'm a bit disappointed in the EKWB PE-series performance at the moment.

I know it's an entry level radiator, but I have two PE120 paired with Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12 and they are struggling with a simple i5 3570T + GTX970 setup. It's drawing 240W from the mains, about 190W from the PSU. On paper, I should have enough cooling for about 280W.

Needed to turn up the fans and pump (D5) quite a bit to get it cooled properly with just power target 106% TDP. Turning it down 90% instead lets me run the fans at level 4 out of 10 in AsRock AXTU with reasonable temps, 55°C CPU 45°C GPU.

106% TDP with fans at 100% and pump at mid setting resulted in around 68°C on the CPU and 60°C on GPU with very high water temps, fittings too hot to touch.

_Disclaimer; It might be the fans, I'm used to 50mm+ thick radiators with low FPI and low fan speeds._


----------



## electro2u

Finally finished tubing my new DC build. First time I haven't had a single leak on a new setup.


----------



## mus1mus

What are your thoughts on the case called "8.0.S.S. Cube" ??

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/01/19/ces2015-win-heavily-inspired-competition/


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Finally finished tubing my new DC build. First time I haven't had a single leak on a new setup.


This is freaking beautiful man. Love it. 2 questions.

Do you always use acrylic in your builds, and how long did it take you to get the hang of it.

And I just ordered some carbon fiber viynl wrap. What brand did you use and is it possible for you to send me a link to where you bought yours?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What are your thoughts on the case called "8.0.S.S. Cube" ??
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/01/19/ces2015-win-heavily-inspired-competition/


Yup, lots of CL influence there. I was really never a fan of the S cases as they seem to be lacking, especially for the price. IF you're gonna do a cube case, go at it. No half arse windows, or useless bottom chambers. Well, that's my opinion.

At first, I thought it was a TT X9 competitor, but then I saw the comparison shots and it made more sense they used the CL units as models/inspiration. Well, cost wise, i would assume it should be about or less then the X9 since that supports 480s and this only 360s.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> This is freaking beautiful man. Love it. 2 questions.
> 
> Do you always use acrylic in your builds, and how long did it take you to get the hang of it.
> 
> And I just ordered some carbon fiber viynl wrap. What brand did you use and is it possible for you to send me a link to where you bought yours?


Thanks! This is like the 3rd time I've done a build in this case but the first time I used soft tubing. I'm still getting the hang of acrylic. I'd redo the 180 degree bend but I need to get up and running.

The vinyl can be tricky to get right. Flat surfaces are easy but you need to heat it up constantly and stretch it a bit around curves. Heat works on vinyl really well. Don't need much.

I use 3m vinyl only. The scotch Brite stuff is cheaper and easier to work with and that's what I used here. I prefer the look of dinoc. Both are basically the same and made by 3m.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> This is freaking beautiful man. Love it. 2 questions.
> 
> Do you always use acrylic in your builds, and how long did it take you to get the hang of it.
> 
> And I just ordered some carbon fiber viynl wrap. What brand did you use and is it possible for you to send me a link to where you bought yours?


Wierd I could have sworn that was acrylic esspecially the bend from the gpu to the rad and the one exatly opposite to that. I've done four builds so far just finished one today...well atleast the tubing and leak test, finnally. I ordered 90s and needed triple rotaries. Pretty bad when fcpu is now closed. And I kept finding stuff that I needed for it lol.

im pretty sure the carbon fiber wrap was 3m but I'm not sure. I do know it was the most expensive stuff that ppcs had. I thought I was going to wrap my top rad with it but ended up buying a new hw labs sr2 rad instead of messing with it on that. But my fittings are carbon fiber so I'd like to ipliment that somewhere else as well maybe on the psu shroud and around the mothorboard. So like a hair dryer would work good on it err??

Here's a pic of my new build.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Thanks! This is like the 3rd time I've done a build in this case but the first time I used soft tubing. I'm still getting the hang of acrylic. I'd redo the 180 degree bend but I need to get up and running.
> 
> The vinyl can be tricky to get right. Flat surfaces are easy but you need to get a it up constantly and stretch it a bit around curves. Heat works on vinyl really well. Don't need much.
> 
> I use 3m vinyl only. The scotch Brite stuff is cheaper and easier to work with and that's what I used here. I prefer the look of dinoc. Both are basically the same and made by 3m.


Sorry I replied to the wrong post somehow, so look at the one above this one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> This is freaking beautiful man. Love it. 2 questions.
> 
> Do you always use acrylic in your builds, and how long did it take you to get the hang of it.
> 
> And I just ordered some carbon fiber viynl wrap. What brand did you use and is it possible for you to send me a link to where you bought yours?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! This is like the 3rd time I've done a build in this case but the first time I used soft tubing. I'm still getting the hang of acrylic. I'd redo the 180 degree bend but I need to get up and running.
> 
> The vinyl can be tricky to get right. Flat surfaces are easy but you need to get a it up constantly and stretch it a bit around curves. Heat works on vinyl really well. Don't need much.
> 
> *I use 3m vinyl only.* The scotch Brite stuff is cheaper and easier to work with and that's what I used here. I prefer the look of dinoc. Both are basically the same and made by 3m.
Click to expand...

Very much this.

I want to get a 3M tattoo.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very much this.
> 
> I want to get a 3M tattoo.


Haha I'm a tattoo artist...come to Michigan and I'll do it for the free. Just to see you do it. Balls or for head only though or it will cost you a needle and ink...


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys,

Did anyone else who ordered the R5E monoblock from EK when it came out Monday, have their order "shipped" yet . . . .

Mine still shows processing as of this morning . .









To make it worse, and piss me off even more, when I asked PPCs about it, (weekend emails) they played dumb, and now they have it in stock which would have saved me DHL shipping and some waiting time . . . .

Seems like every time I turn around here lately someone else wants to bend me over . . .









Darlene


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Did anyone else who ordered the R5E monoblock from EK when it came out Monday, have their order "shipped" yet . . . .
> 
> Mine still shows processing as of this morning . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make it worse, and piss me off even more, when I asked PPCs about it, (weekend emails) they played dumb, and now they have it in stock which would have saved me DHL shipping and some waiting time . . . .
> 
> Seems like every time I turn around here lately someone else wants to bend me over . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


That's just PPCS, i've had nothing but headaches from them. My build has been sitting stagnant for 2 weeks purely from their BS.

And now they're really the only game in the US, so sad.....


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Did anyone else who ordered the R5E monoblock from EK when it came out Monday, have their order "shipped" yet . . . .
> 
> Mine still shows processing as of this morning . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make it worse, and piss me off even more, when I asked PPCs about it, (weekend emails) they played dumb, and now they have it in stock which would have saved me DHL shipping and some waiting time . . . .
> 
> Seems like every time I turn around here lately someone else wants to bend me over . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Yeah I had to call them and email them to get them to send out an order today....minus a custom purple and yellow sleeved 24 pin for my main rig. I told them that they better just Shipp out my uv green stuff for the current build today and then worry about the 24 pin later as I'm not waiting to finish a build with it kind of just adding a little something extra to it....ugh and last week I had ordered a pump...took them five days to ship because they said it took that long to sleeve two wires uv green...right.

Now I know they are the only good source for wc parts...but man....come one. They even told me that on the phone...since fcpu closed we are swamped. I bet the ceo is laughing his butt off... I miss frozencpu!!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Did anyone else who ordered the R5E monoblock from EK when it came out Monday, have their order "shipped" yet . . . .
> 
> Mine still shows processing as of this morning . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make it worse, and piss me off even more, when I asked PPCs about it, (weekend emails) they played dumb, and now they have it in stock which would have saved me DHL shipping and some waiting time . . . .
> 
> Seems like every time I turn around here lately someone else wants to bend me over . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I had to call them and email them to get them to send out an order today....minus a custom purple and yellow sleeved 24 pin for my main rig. I told them that they better just Shipp out my uv green stuff for the current build today and then worry about the 24 pin later as I'm not waiting to finish a build with it kind of just adding a little something extra to it....ugh and last week I had ordered a pump...took them five days to ship because they said it took that long to sleeve two wires uv green...right.
> 
> Now I know they are the only good source for wc parts...but man....come one. They even told me that on the phone...since fcpu closed we are swamped. I bet the ceo is laughing his butt off... I miss frozencpu!!!!
Click to expand...

I have no doubt they are swamped, that's understandable, and with this last weekend having a Monday holiday with the post office closed, add that headache and delay as well.

If when I asked about the monoblock though, they had just said something to the effect: "try checking the new products about Tuesday", instead of blowing me off with "we'll check with EK", (and then not replying at all) it would have been such a much more useful answer and a stand up way to do things . . . They could NOT have been unaware that they had the blocks either there or arriving, when I asked over the weekend.

To be fair, I've had no real issues with them over many years, and lots of positive outcomes with little issues or glitches . . . . just somehow this time isn't feeling all nice and warm and fuzzy.

Darlene


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have no doubt they are swamped, that's understandable, and with this last weekend having a Monday holiday with the post office closed, add that headache and delay as well.
> 
> If when I asked about the monoblock though, they had just said something to the effect: "try checking the new products about Tuesday", instead of blowing me off with "we'll check with EK", (and then not replying at all) it would have been such a much more useful answer and a stand up way to do things . . . They could NOT have been unaware that they had the blocks either there or arriving, when I asked over the weekend.
> 
> To be fair, I've had no real issues with them over many years, and lots of positive outcomes with little issues or glitches . . . . just somehow this time isn't feeling all nice and warm and fuzzy.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah they were deffinatly giving you the run around..

Does it make me a horrible person that I called them and told them to ship my stuff that was ready...and that the 24 pin could be shipped out the next day with another order that I was going to put it....but never planned on actually making the order?

I'll be completely honest. I did plan to order a radiator but then I found one a guy was selling online brand new for 50 cheaper with shipping included.

So now I get the joy of calling them tommorrow to say that they just need to send it out. I did already pay for shipping on an almost $200 order though so I'm not really feeling to bad about it.


----------



## Bluemustang

It shouldnt matter which end tank on an alphacool UT60 is used as inlet or outlet right? Originally in the bottom of my 900D i was going to have coolant come in the bottom tank and out the top but rethinking it i think im going to reverse it and have coolant come in the top tank and out the bottom. (when saying top and bottom imagine the rad is mounted in the bottom of the 900D, so vertically basically)


----------



## VSG

On their Facebook page, PPCs said they would have the monoblock in stock on Friday if UPS is on time. So it's a preorder of sorts I imagine.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Wierd I could have sworn that was acrylic esspecially the bend from the gpu to the rad and the one exatly opposite to that. I've done four builds so far just finished one today...well atleast the tubing and leak test, finnally. I ordered 90s and needed triple rotaries. Pretty bad when fcpu is now closed. And I kept finding stuff that I needed for it lol.
> 
> im pretty sure the carbon fiber wrap was 3m but I'm not sure. I do know it was the most expensive stuff that ppcs had. I thought I was going to wrap my top rad with it but ended up buying a new hw labs sr2 rad instead of messing with it on that. But my fittings are carbon fiber so I'd like to ipliment that somewhere else as well maybe on the psu shroud and around the mothorboard. So like a hair dryer would work good on it err??
> 
> Here's a pic of my new build.


lol looks familiar.


----------



## wermad

My order said "complete" but there was no "shipped" like before. I still kept checking it and found a tracking # once i pulled up the invoice. As someone mentioned, they're swamped due to fcpu closing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> It shouldnt matter which end tank on an alphacool UT60 is used as inlet or outlet right? Originally in the bottom of my 900D i was going to have coolant come in the bottom tank and out the top but rethinking it i think im going to reverse it and have coolant come in the top tank and out the bottom. (when saying top and bottom imagine the rad is mounted in the bottom of the 900D, so vertically basically)


Nope, just make sure you orientate the rear tank's plug if you need it for air bleeding or draining. Tbh, I don't even bother w/ that plug







. I'll have to tear down my whole rig since I'm replacing the copper plugs on all three Monsta's w/ chrome xspc (matches the rest of the nickel plated stuff).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> On their Facebook page, PPCs said they would have the monoblock in stock on Friday if UPS is on time. So it's a preorder of sorts I imagine.


They need to make crap like that clear and not advertise it as in stock with a number of units left, or they meant last Friday.

I used to love getting everything in order for a new build, . . .BUT . . . .







not lately for sure

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> AC Monsta's aren't that great if you can't fit fans in push-pull, you're better off using 60mm rads if you're using a push or pull setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing I just ordered a hardware labs sr2 then huh lol.
> 
> The monsta would be 136mm thick with push pull...that's just unreasonable. The only reason I could see needing one would be if that was the only rad in your loop...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or if you had over 300mm free space available to parallel them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There isn't that much space available in my case unless I mounted them outside. All I want on the exterior are my Intake fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 300mm...yeah no cases are comming to mine besides case labs..any others that this is possible with?
Click to expand...

Phanteks Enthoo Primo can easily fit a 480 Monsta in the bottom in push-pull and _possibly_ another 480 Monsta in push-pull in the top as long as you don't have anything (memory, heatsinks, etc) taller than 53mm along the top ~65mm of your mobo so that the rad and fans can overhang it. Like Jesse from the ModZoo explains in the FAQs of his Enthoo Primo review::
Quote:


> What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?
> 
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They need to make crap like that clear and not advertise it as in stock with a number of units left, or they meant last Friday.
> 
> I used to love getting everything in order for a new build, . . .BUT . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not lately for sure
> 
> Darlene


https://www.facebook.com/PerformancePCs
Quote:


> The New EK R5E Monoblocks should arrive Friday if UPS does not screw us again.


This was posted yesterday afternoon. So I imagine this Friday at the earliest then.


----------



## wermad

I've had a situation where they sold me something and it had yet to arrive in their store. They did contact me and apologized. I was ok w/ it since it was a few more days. I got a free hat and shirt out of it







.

Isn't there a dock workers dilemma?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They need to make crap like that clear and not advertise it as in stock with a number of units left, or they meant last Friday.
> 
> I used to love getting everything in order for a new build, . . .BUT . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not lately for sure
> 
> Darlene


Nothing I have ever dealt with (ordering wise) is as bad as pc parts. The lack of places, the lack of support, the numerous mistakes (of my 10 orders both through frozen and ppc my order either was missing parts, broken, or not shipped ) maybe it's just me but I feel if a co. Or a group of guys can come together and have a store where you order and get what your suppose to get (like most other stores for other items) there could be a huge market specially with pc gaming becoming more common. It's really is pathetic that when I order I m usually going to not get what I paid for or have to wait


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've had a situation where they sold me something and it had yet to arrive in their store. They did contact me and apologized. I was ok w/ it since it was a few more days. I got a free hat and shirt out of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Isn't there a dock workers dilemma?


On the west coast, yeah. I don't think that affects anything coming in from Europe though. The New England storm takes care of those packages


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They need to make crap like that clear and not advertise it as in stock with a number of units left, or they meant last Friday.
> 
> I used to love getting everything in order for a new build, . . .BUT . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not lately for sure
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/PerformancePCs
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The New EK R5E Monoblocks should arrive Friday if UPS does not screw us again.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This was posted yesterday afternoon. So I imagine this Friday at the earliest then.
Click to expand...

So now I gotta check all the social media outlets, to see if what it says on their slow, dodgy website is actually correct, . . . .

I'm callin' shenanigans

Simply listing them as "available soon" or "accepting preorders" rather than "in stock" would have been the straight up thing to do.

D.

Edit to add. . . . .

They do have a little blue counter saying about "will be in stock" with days hours minutes and seconds ticking down, which didn't exactly make sense when I saw it at first, but it does now, so my criticism is scaled back significantly . . . .

Just don't recall seeing it before, so it didn't trigger any appropriate synapses.


----------



## VSG

I agree! Is your package from Slovenia affected by the east coast storm you think?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Hehe, yeah PPCs got me too with the 2200rpm EK Vardar fan showing as in stock when in reality it's not so my order was changed to 'waiting on preorders'. FWIW it allowed me to convince them to let me add another item to the stalled order without adding to the shipping cost. They led me to believe their EK shipment was due to be in Tues or Wed though. This is the first I'm hearing of Friday, assuming my fan is on that same shipment from EK.

On that note, I just got an email from Amazon too that says of a Prime shipment of some other fans that was due to arrive today: "_We wanted to let you know that your package may not arrive on time due to extreme weather conditions or an unforeseen natural event_"

Oh wells.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I agree! Is your package from Slovenia affected by the east coast storm you think?


That order finally shows as complete. . . no tracking number yet though

I think it goes to a terminal in Ohio to get resorted to come here, iirc.

D.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That order finally shows as complete.
> 
> I think it goes to a terminal in Ohio to get resorted to come here, iirc.
> 
> D.


Yeah I remember DHL going through Ohio as well. Mine is coming in via UPS so let's see.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo can easily fit a 480 Monsta in the bottom in push-pull and _possibly_ another 480 Monsta in push-pull in the top as long as you don't have anything (memory, heatsinks, etc) taller than 53mm along the top ~65mm of your mobo so that the rad and fans can overhang it. Like Jesse from the ModZoo explains in the FAQs of his Enthoo Primo review::


Well darn then that won't work .as I have my ram cooled by. I guess I don't 100 percent need it but I'd like to keep using it as I spent a great deal of time and effort into the block. Now ek sells them crystal clear acrylic...pisses me off Because of obvious reasons. It would be really be cool if ek made a run of blocks with the only logo with the swoopy k...I've got a nb wb that I like just because of the writing.

Need a new case







(
case


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Well darn then that won't work .as I have my ram cooled by. I guess I don't 100 percent need it but I'd like to keep using it as I spent a great deal of time and effort into the block. Now ek sells them crystal clear acrylic...pisses me off Because of obvious reasons. It would be really be cool if ek made a run of blocks with the only logo with the swoopy k...I've got a nb wb that I like just because of the writing.
> 
> Need a new case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (
> case


Outside of caselabs. Primo is a great buy


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Outside of caselabs. Primo is a great buy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hehe, yeah PPCs got me too with the 2200rpm EK Vardar fan showing as in stock when in reality it's not so my order was changed to 'waiting on preorders'. FWIW it allowed me to convince them to let me add another item to the stalled order without adding to the shipping cost. They led me to believe their EK shipment was due to be in Tues or Wed though. This is the first I'm hearing of Friday, assuming my fan is on that same shipment from EK.
> 
> On that note, I just got an email from Amazon too that says of a Prime shipment of some other fans that was due to arrive today: "_We wanted to let you know that your package may not arrive on time due to extreme weather conditions or an unforeseen natural event_"
> 
> Oh wells.


Yeah darn ppcs . Called yesterday because my order didn't ship....well I'm talking to.them and they said since they are having so many orders and phone calls they wouldn't be able to get my custom purple and yellow 24 pin done yesterday so they would just send out the rest of the order and the 24 pin today...yeah no I just got a notification that said my whole order shipped...so they lied to me yesterday and said they shipped out my stuff...


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Outside of caselabs. Primo is a great buy


I'm interested now about how much do they cost new and do they have an options like the corsair 540 Case and the caselabs sm5, so bassically a square one with psu, hdd on one side?


----------



## mossberg385t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I remember DHL going through Ohio as well. Mine is coming in via UPS so let's see.


Yes, the DHL hub for North America is in the Cincinnati Airport. All packages going or coming from anywhere in North America go through there for customs then they will be sent to a regional sort facility

I used to work there on a reload, also know a lot of the plow crew for the airport.

random fact of the day


----------



## sinnedone

So , I'm only about an hour away from ppcs and an order placed 2 days ago is still processing. I emailed and received a response that they were swamped with orders since fcpu closed and would try to get everything out asap.

First time I've had an issue with ppcs, but under the circumstances I understand.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Outside of caselabs. Primo is a great buy
> 
> 
> 
> I'm interested now about how much do they cost new and do they have an options like the corsair 540 Case and the caselabs sm5, so bassically a square one with psu, hdd on one side?
Click to expand...

Phanteks doesn't have any cube designs, but their tower cases have some very different and interesting features. http://www.phanteks.com/products.html

Primo (when available) is usually around $250 and the Pro/Luxe are around $100. Typically they can be found on Newegg when they are in stock, but they go in/out of stock frequently.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Outside of caselabs. Primo is a great buy


How? Caselabs are on a completely different league than phanteks cases like at all? All I'll say is something that cheap must have a downside.

As for cube cases Parvum make custom spec cases if you contact them or you can buy off the shelf cases in cube format.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I'm interested now about how much do they cost new and do they have an options like the corsair 540 Case and the caselabs sm5, so bassically a square one with psu, hdd on one side?


See the mecury s8 if you want a corsair. 540 style. Fits an atx board and tons of options. It will be my next case


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How? Caselabs are on a completely different league than phanteks cases like at all? All I'll say is something that cheap must have a downside.
> 
> As for cube cases Parvum make custom spec cases if you contact them or you can buy off the shelf cases in cube format.


What you quoted from me was a response from a previous poster asking for a case outside of caselabs. They our night and day but for the under. 300 range is take the primo over 900d or any case for that matter on that range and under. Pravum is nice but the op was talking about monsta rads and. 480 rads so Pravum would be out


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What you quoted from me was a response from a previous poster asking for a case outside of caselabs. They our night and day but for the under. 300 range is take the primo over 900d or any case for that matter on that range and under. Pravum is nice but the op was talking about monsta rads and. 480 rads so Pravum would be out


Primo over 900D you say?
Primo was the first case i ordered when i started my build but after starting to install things i quickly realized that while my stuff would fit (barely) itd look mighty cramped.

Don't get me wrong, the primo was quite nice and had good build quality, but the 900D has a lot more room in the display area (as well as a bigger window). I made the switch cause i want my super expensive build displayed well with adequate space without looking cramped.

Though the 900D certainly could have better build quality for the price. Though outside of caselabs its the only case that has the display area space i want.

As well the 900Ds side window makes it properly look like the front as the window is centered. The primo is a half window so it just looks like the side of the case with a window. Looks better for displaying window straight on.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What you quoted from me was a response from a previous poster asking for a case outside of caselabs. They our night and day but for the under. 300 range is take the primo over 900d or any case for that matter on that range and under. Pravum is nice but the op was talking about monsta rads and. 480 rads so Pravum would be out


Parvum could add the 160mm to the case design to accomodate 2x80mm thick rads and match what ever else he needs, under $300? not sure on that as I'm in the UK so... I'll say the same thing that I say to everyone when buying PC parts, you only buy good once.


----------



## emsj86

I like the 900 d as well for the reasons you stated. And also because I love the look of a side mounted rad. But they really need to update the front panel and should offer items like coldzero does. Also the qc seems to be off. But than again it's good for the price


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Primo over 900D you say?
> Primo was the first case i ordered when i started my build but after starting to install things i quickly realized that while my stuff would fit (barely) itd look mighty cramped.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, the primo was quite nice and had good build quality, but the 900D has a lot more room in the display area (as well as a bigger window). I made the switch cause i want my super expensive build displayed well with adequate space without looking cramped.
> 
> Though the 900D certainly could have better build quality for the price. Though outside of caselabs its the only case that has the display area space i want.


Everything you just said, I say all the time but always lands on deaf ears. My next case was going to be a 900D but is has a few issues with dead zones and in one of Jayztwocents videos he shows something weird, I'll see if I can find it, but it put me off corsair for good.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Parvum could add the 160mm to the case design to accomodate 2x80mm thick rads and match what ever else he needs, under $300? not sure on that as I'm in the UK so... I'll say the same thing that I say to everyone when buying PC parts, you only buy good once.


Where did I say the Pravum for 300. I only stated that the op was talking big rads that the Pravum wouldn't seem to fit what he wanted is all. I agree buying he better one even with the extra cost is worth it. If I could redo my case purchase is gladly hand over my bonus money to caselabs


----------



## wermad

Corsair did slip in quality w/ the 900D. But as far as space and rad options, its very great case. Just make sure you don't pay over $300. Got mine for ~$230.

As for a nice cube case, well, I got burned by TT customer service. They're cases are good, but not anything to scream about. When i saw this little case, it caught my eye. Now, if you're willing to take the risk, a few niggles, and crappy customer service, the TT X9 seems very nice for a cube. Can be stacked and holds two 480s on top and one in the bottom (side).





Lastly, be extremely wary of TT rebates. Lots of complaints of rebates being denied or lost stuff. My rebate was lost and then magically appeared after I emailed then. Unfortunately, it was past the window and it got denied. Talking to their customer service got me no where.


----------



## deafboy

As it currently sits...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Where did I say the Pravum for 300. I only stated that the op was talking big rads that the Pravum wouldn't seem to fit what he wanted is all. I agree buying he better one even with the extra cost is worth it. If I could redo my case purchase is gladly hand over my bonus money to caselabs


I think you missed my point, the point is Parvum will make him a case to accommodate the extra rad space as per request, that's all I'm trying to say.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I thought that parvum released a case that fits a 360 up top already?

The Cautious oNe


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Corsair did slip in quality w/ the 900D. But as far as space and rad options, its very great case. Just make sure you don't pay over $300. Got mine for ~$230.


Dont pay over 300? I dont see it anywhere for less than $340. So aside from some black friday deals or something i dont see how you can hope to get it for less than 300.

Paid $330 for mine.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Dont pay over 300? I dont see it anywhere for less than $340. So aside from some black friday deals or something i dont see how you can hope to get it for less than 300.
> 
> Paid $330 for mine.


Saw it on sale in Dec for 250$

TCO


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Saw it on sale in Dec for 250$
> 
> TCO


Like i said, a sale


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Like i said, a sale


Maybe he is implying that it isn't worth buying at full price.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A sad time for UK watercoolers and another statistic in a disturbing trend of WC stores dying off......

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/home.php

RIP Specialtech.

I miss you already.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A sad time for UK watercoolers and a another statistic in a disturbing trend of WC stores dying off......
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/home.php
> 
> RIP Specialtech.
> 
> I miss you already.


thats really sad news







they were the closest wc store to my country with really cheap shipping prices


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A sad time for UK watercoolers and a another statistic in a disturbing trend of WC stores dying off......
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/home.php
> 
> RIP Specialtech.
> 
> I miss you already.


Damn another one.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A sad time for UK watercoolers and a another statistic in a disturbing trend of WC stores dying off......
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/home.php
> 
> RIP Specialtech.
> 
> I miss you already.


Oh man, this is really sad news.


----------



## Ramzinho

so how are these alphacool fans? they are 8$ a pop.. not bad.. any one tried em?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A sad time for UK watercoolers and another statistic in a disturbing trend of WC stores dying off......
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/home.php
> 
> RIP Specialtech.
> 
> I miss you already.


WTH...No! Specialthec was going to get all my business after FZCPU dying. Now they are gone too. Oh boy...I am truly sad, very good shop.


----------



## guitarhero23

At least they notified us!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Damn. "In liquidation" to whom? Apparently not regular consumers.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> I'm a bit disappointed in the EKWB PE-series performance at the moment.
> 
> I know it's an entry level radiator, but I have two PE120 paired with Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12 and they are struggling with a simple i5 3570T + GTX970 setup. It's drawing 240W from the mains, about 190W from the PSU. On paper, I should have enough cooling for about 280W.
> 
> Needed to turn up the fans and pump (D5) quite a bit to get it cooled properly with just power target 106% TDP. Turning it down 90% instead lets me run the fans at level 4 out of 10 in AsRock AXTU with reasonable temps, 55°C CPU 45°C GPU.
> 
> 106% TDP with fans at 100% and pump at mid setting resulted in around 68°C on the CPU and 60°C on GPU with very high water temps, fittings too hot to touch.
> 
> _Disclaimer; It might be the fans, I'm used to 50mm+ thick radiators with low FPI and low fan speeds._


240mm of high fpi rad with crap fans. temps look normal to me.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I thought that parvum released a case that fits a 360 up top already?
> 
> The Cautious oNe


Not sure, but in the times I've spoken to them with questions they say fire them an email and discuss it with them with designs etc.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A sad time for UK watercoolers and another statistic in a disturbing trend of WC stores dying off......
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/home.php
> 
> RIP Specialtech.
> 
> I miss you already.


When I was trying to find watercooling retailers these guys never came up? Maybe some SEO would of helped sales, I just use watercooling uk for my needs only gripe is it takes a full working week to get my order.


----------



## wermad

This sucks big time


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not sure, but in the times I've spoken to them with questions they say fire them an email and discuss it with them with designs etc.


They Will Make anything

THe X.1 Has the Option for a 360mm Mounted on the Roof.

PARVUM

My Brother and i Paid 240$ For the S.2

TCO


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A sad time for UK watercoolers and another statistic in a disturbing trend of WC stores dying off......
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/home.php
> 
> RIP Specialtech.
> 
> I miss you already.


I suspected it









thats why i messaged you about it! so i guess i got my answer & not a happy one









now l guess that leaves us with wcuk,overclockers,scan,aquatuning.

seems there dropping left right & center. wth is going on!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

not enough people watercooling
I can't even give a custom loop away, to someone outside PC forums


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I think you missed my point, the point is Parvum will make him a case to accommodate the extra rad space as per request, that's all I'm trying to say.


Your right. Didn't mean to come off wrong if I did


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> I suspected it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats why i messaged you about it! so i guess i got my answer & not a happy one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now l guess that leaves us with wcuk,overclockers,scan,aquatuning.
> 
> seems there dropping left right & center. wth is going on!


Too many people saying stick to air or all you need is an AIO/CLC unit. That's what.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Your right. Didn't mean to come off wrong if I did


Don't worry about it mate, I didn't think you were having a go or anything so no harm done.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Too many people saying stick to air or all you need is an AIO/CLC unit. That's what.


only people overclocking hardcore need a custom loop and even then there are some descent enough AIOs out there for just CPU

only people watercooling are those with multiple gpus and hot platforms


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> only people overclocking hardcore need a custom loop and even then there are some descent enough AIOs out there for just CPU
> 
> only people watercooling are those with multiple gpus and hot platforms


I'm aware of that yes but when people are asking on forums the reply they normally get is _"There is no need for a custom loop ever, just use air or an AIO"_


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Too many people saying stick to air or all you need is an AIO/CLC unit. That's what.


i guess so.









a full loop isnt exactly cheap really.

ive only ever had one clc. a H50 & it sucked worst than my air cooler at the time lol.

Long live custom loops!


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> only people overclocking hardcore need a custom loop and even then there are some descent enough AIOs out there for just CPU
> 
> only people watercooling are those with multiple gpus and hot platforms


Plus people who enjoy the hobby, enjoy putting something of their own design together on their own, something thats awesome. As well as for the looks. And quietness.

Other reasons besides performance, i know performance is only half my reasons.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Watercooling has gone from a requirement of high OC's to a boutique niche that is aesthetic based,modern CPU's and GPU's just dont need watercooling like they once did.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Watercooling has gone from a requirement of high OC's to a boutique niche that is aesthetic based,modern CPU's and GPU's just dont need watercooling like they once did.


So where do we go from here? With CPUs and GPUs not needing as much cooling, what will happen next? Will we all become dinosaurs and slowly die off or nah?








Will there always be a need for watercooling?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Watercooling has gone from a requirement of high OC's to a boutique niche that is aesthetic based,modern CPU's and GPU's just dont need watercooling like they once did.


tell that to my 7990's lol

i know exactly what you mean though. intel & nividia's dont really need it. but i think amd's high endstill fall into it that category !


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> tell that to my 7990's lol
> 
> i know exactly what you mean though. intel & nividia's dont really need it. but i think amd's high endstill fall into it that category !


But will the new chips next year need it? Who knows, even if they run cooler and stuff, will it change my or your need for water? Probably not.


----------



## velocityx

to be honest, it was easier for me to cool my overclocked fx 8320 to 4.7 at 1.45 volts and keep it under 70 than to cool my i7 4790k st 1.25. maybe i need to reseat my h80i


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> But will the new chips next year need it? Who knows, even if they run cooler and stuff, will it change my or your need for water? Probably not.


not really. ill still do it










AMD tends to always have a high end monster that gobbles up the watts & dumps out heat though.

on the next couple of die shrinks that may change i reckon. who knows?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

they will be hot next revision, its tick tock ones hot ones cold, now we are on cold.
780Ti are HOT as UFFF

but as far as the aesthetics thing goes, yes thats true, but how many people have 3000USD just for aesthetics.

like 5 maybe 10 people, half of which are sponsored and get some parts for free

intel 5950x YES it needs watercooling for 4.5ghz

also once you buy pumps and res and fittings and rads all you have to do to upgrade is buy blocks.

its alot of money to do for performance, but for aesthetics, thats even more. I mean you have to buy all the colored crap, every fitting has to be perfect

then the modding parts

I am trying to help my friend upgrade from 08 for a descent amount of money so its all my hand me downs. the average gamer doesnt hav anything but a barebones kit
mobo, processor, gpu psu case, ram, cpu cooler , maybe 2 hard drives

almost always running on stock clocks


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> they will be hot next revision, its tick tock ones hot ones cold, now we are on cold.
> 780Ti are HOT as UFFF
> 
> but as far as the aesthetics thing goes, yes thats true, but how many people have 3000USD just for aesthetics.
> 
> like 5 maybe 10 people, half of which are sponsored and get some parts for free
> 
> intel 5950x YES it needs watercooling for 4.5ghz
> 
> also once you buy pumps and res and fittings and rads all you have to do to upgrade is buy blocks.
> 
> its alot of money to do for performance, but for aesthetics, thats even more. I mean you have to buy all the colored crap, every fitting has to be perfect
> 
> then the modding parts
> 
> I am trying to help my friend upgrade from 08. the average gamer doesnt hav anything but a barebones kit


i just pickup stuff as i go when i see it on offer really.

for instance i have 2x 290 aqua blocks sat here for some reason lol.

Black friday sale









at some point though i will grab 2x290x on the cheap & put them to use probably?


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> i just pickup stuff as i go when i see it on offer really.
> 
> for instance i have 2x 290 aqua blocks sat here for some reason lol.
> 
> Black friday sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at some point though i will grab 2x290x on the cheap & put them to use probably?


Do we need to organize an intervention?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah half my components are used.
or sales
if I wasn't on every forum scouring i wouldnt have been able to watercool

lol if anyone needs an intervention its me, I have more watercooling parts than I can list.

gtx 680 water blocks 780ti waterblocks, 2 x79 mobo blocks, 3 cpu blocks
3 pumps. fittings on fittings, 5 radiators; 2x gtx 480 nemesis, 1 gtx 360 nemesis, 1 tfc xchanger 360 and a thermochill p140.3

5 and a half res

just to name the major parts

only ones in use right now are the 360 gtx nem and 1 pump and one 780ti block xD

cpu is on AIO or single stage phase

I dunno I'd sell it all if a cascade was a reasonable alternative


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Do we need to organize an intervention?


lol, leave me alone







im happy in my madness


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Plus people who enjoy the hobby, enjoy putting something of their own design together on their own, something thats awesome. As well as for the looks. And quietness.
> 
> Other reasons besides performance, i know performance is only half my reasons.


I wish I could claim that performance is even half the reason. I'm more 80% asthetics which is a luxury. I hate the look of air coolers now but if I didn't have a windowed case and my pc sat under my desk I'll admit watercooling wouldn't be on my radar. In fact if I hadn't come across this forum years ago and seen all the beautiful things you guys have done I probably wouldn't have ever gone with water. The initial expense is huge.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol i wish i could lie and say aesthetics was my driving force, but it simply isnt the case. my rive was too hot to safely bench 125strap so i had to cool the entire thing/

i really just care about OC, I have an aesthetics build under way, but its nothin like snef's or any modder's rigs

just a cross desk with some methodically placed parts,

personally I like understating things though. I have always been fond of the "wolf in sheep's clothing" style of performance enhancement

black acetal,nickel, black fittings, clear plexi where i can. clear tubing with DI. looks sexy to me

or just I let my hardware speak for itself. I mean why distract so much from the glorious PCB


----------



## Cavey00

tatmMRKIV, that is an interesting avatar you have there. I just noticed the ram helmet. That's awesome, is that you?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol no i wish, i dont have a ram helmet. I dont have enough crap ram kits, just good ones


----------



## NomNomNom

Whats a good case for M-ATX setup and a 240 RAD?


----------



## wermad

I've been fancying this case for a while. Its a tad big for matx but it has good potential (five slots, horizon, three 240s, etc.). Oh, the name used to be "Atlas", but they changed it












Newegg and Ncix sell it here in the US. Check if the Can sites have them. Not bad for ~$100 USd.

http://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=20


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I'm not 100 percent positive but I'm pretty sure they haven't made one yet. I went with an ek block for mine and couldn't be happier.


I would go w/ the EK version but the BitsPower block for the 970 Strix is just perfect to me:



Just located the acrylic version on DazMode


----------



## emsj86

I watercool because it's fun. It's a hobby and I enjoy it. Yes it had given me better performance. But realistically I could have taking the money that I spent in water cooling and got two gtx 980 and still water cooled my cpu with say nzxt kraken 61 or swiftech 220x and had better performance. But I'm happy with what I have. I wonder if it would be worth it for me to buy another 780 and gpu block to sli or buy the gtx 980 or the next gtx 900 that may or may not come out this year. Would probably be the same cost as I would get gpu block, fittings, back plate, sli bridge or make my own. What do you think would be best?


----------



## VSG

Yet another case of "if only...". I love the aesthetics myself but it's simply not a very good radiator fan compared to what's out there. Oh and the LEDs are hooked up to the fan power so they dim as you undervolt the fan


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would go w/ the EK version but the BitsPower block for the 970 Strix is just perfect to me:
> 
> 
> 
> Just located the acrylic version on DazMode


Wow ....yeah I deffinatly should have done some more research and gotten that one it looks alot better and I love how it covers the whole card...maybe I'll sell mine and get one thanks for sharing I had no clue!! Btw how much are they?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I like how bitspower is coming out with blocks for so many platforms
Even had a fullcover ocformula block


----------



## Leyaena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Whats a good case for M-ATX setup and a 240 RAD?


I just recently bought a Parvum Systems S2.0
It's got plenty of space for a dual 240 system, which is what I'll be doing.
I've been talking to some of their employees, and they're genuinely nice people as well!

link


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yet another case of "if only...". I love the aesthetics myself but it's simply not a very good radiator fan compared to what's out there. *Oh and the LEDs are hooked up to the fan power so they dim as you undervolt the fan*


That's sorta the norm for 3 pin fans . . . .

Only fans I've seen that keep the LEDs at sustained brightness are PWM fans where you have a constant 12V supply

Here's a unique anomaly where 2 of the same model fans don't both hold minimum speed as spec'd..... The one fan holds the 600 rpm min, but the other keeps slowing down as the percentage is reduced below where they both run at 600rpm, and maintains a min of 120 rpm . . . slowest I've ever seen a fan run

Both fan's LEDs stay nice and bright at all speeds though.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

I have a few 3-pin fans here that have a separate 2 pin for the LEDs but I know what you mean. This fan being PWM would have helped its case.

Also, yes- I've seen that too. This is why I am not a big fan (heh) of basing tests from 1 sample and try my best to get at least 2 if possible.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I just recently bought a Parvum Systems S2.0
> It's got plenty of space for a dual 240 system, which is what I'll be doing.
> I've been talking to some of their employees, and they're genuinely nice people as well!
> 
> link




Dual 240s You say









TCO


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> See the mecury s8 if you want a corsair. 540 style. Fits an atx board and tons of options. It will be my next case


I've already got a build in a 540...way to small had trouble firing two thick 240mm rads in mine...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Wow ....yeah I deffinatly should have done some more research and gotten that one it looks alot better and I love how it covers the whole card...maybe I'll sell mine and get one thanks for sharing I had no clue!! Btw how much are they?


On DazMode it was listed at $179 for the block, kinda want to see if PPC's gets them and if so I know it'll be alot less through them


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> On DazMode it was listed at $179 for the block, kinda want to see if PPC's gets them and if so I know it'll be alot less through them


That's $179 CAD btw which comes out to $144 USD or so. Still on the higher side unless a backplate is included in the price.


----------



## DarthBaggins

It states the backplate is included, so yeah not bad then if it's $144 US
Looks like even when I total out prior to going through payment it's still $178.99+


----------



## Mrreks

Hi guys. starting my first real water cooling loop and i need a little advice. I have a coolermaster stacker 935. Got a sick deal at my local microcenter for 90$. So i plan on using 3 xspc ex360 radiator and a ex240. im gonna put that smaller stacker piece on the bottom as a rad box and put 2 360 radiators in that. I plan on cooling my aging fx 8350 and 3 290x. 2 are gonna be cooled atm the 3rd is in the rma process. so i have a mcp655 pump and my old xspc bay rez with a 750 pump from the xspc watercooling 750 kit i bought last year. My main Question is is that 750 pump and the mcp 655 enough power for the cpu block, 2 ek 290x full cover (soon to be 3) and 3 360 radiators and 1 240 radiator. So i just havnt Decided on the types of fittings and I dont know if those pumps will be enough power for the loop. Can anyone chime in? =D


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> I'm a bit disappointed in the EKWB PE-series performance at the moment.
> 
> I know it's an entry level radiator, but I have two PE120 paired with Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12 and they are struggling with a simple i5 3570T + GTX970 setup. It's drawing 240W from the mains, about 190W from the PSU. On paper, I should have enough cooling for about 280W.
> 
> Needed to turn up the fans and pump (D5) quite a bit to get it cooled properly with just power target 106% TDP. Turning it down 90% instead lets me run the fans at level 4 out of 10 in AsRock AXTU with reasonable temps, 55°C CPU 45°C GPU.
> 
> 106% TDP with fans at 100% and pump at mid setting resulted in around 68°C on the CPU and 60°C on GPU with very high water temps, fittings too hot to touch.
> 
> _Disclaimer; It might be the fans, I'm used to 50mm+ thick radiators with low FPI and low fan speeds._


Laine, it is definitely those fans. They just aren't thick enough to get decent static pressure.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Dual 240s You say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Nice!! I love those little cases. First saw it on youtube video. One where it had a gtx 690 in it flipped upside down with a pci e riser so you could see the workings of the block but I decided against it because of the poor mobo support







( wish he was a Lil bigger.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It states the backplate is included, so yeah not bad then if it's $144 US


The only reason I font feel completely stupid right now is that I'm having a custom acrylic backplate bieng made for my card and that the ek block matches the rest of the 3 other blocks in my build!! But if I could do it again I would deffinatly get one ..er two.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I really want the non acrylic block just looks sleek


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I really want the non acrylic block just looks sleek


You mean the black acrylic one? I figure I'm spending the money on watercooling and on premixed colored coolants I deffinatly want to see the coolant through the block.


----------



## wermad

Can I join (







):


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Can I join (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> Only if you get an ek block for that 295x2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


----------



## wermad

EK ugly









Two of these are coming in on Friday (ppcs.com):


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Dual 240s You say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


very well done!


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Do you guys prefer using fan hubs with PWM fans then hooking it up to the motherboard or buying 3 pin fans and buying a fan controller to use in a bay drive? I'm getting a bunch of fans on my radiators and was curious which way I should go about it.


----------



## Angrychair

I like things simple. I run low/mid rpm fans straight(ap14s) on 3pin to a hub for my radiator my case fans are hooked to the mobo and set on a profile though.


----------



## electro2u

You can get pwm fan hubs and use a controller. Best of both worlds!


----------



## wermad

Pwm is more involved, but you get better results/rewards imho. You have to consider which pwm fan, how many can your mb handle (pwm and speed sensor) or spending more on a pwm controller vs a manual voltage controller, and paying more for pwm fans. But, if you put in the time, effort, and monies, you can get some awesome results and let the whole thing take care of itself. There's ppl running 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 pwm fans (wow!).

The quick and cheap method, buy voltage fans (keep in mind some fans have minimum start up voltage and a voltage range), there's a ton of them to choose from, and a nice fan controller. Be careful here, as a lot of cheap fan controllers have hit the market, even from respectable brands. So far, I've had success w/ the Mix2 (six channels, 30w per channel, can change the color of the # illuminations).

Currently, I don't have any fan controllers (to keep the front fascia clean) and I've decided not to invest in pwm. I have SP120 hp's hooked up to the psu's 5v line and they're very quiet (all 14). 7v is still pretty loud with these guys. Had I gone pwm, the Enermax Twisters would have been my choice (corsair is limited to eight pwm fans I believe).


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Thanks for the input guys. I've been recommended the Phantek PH-F140SP/XP fans for my Define R5 in general (someone was saying it's fine to put them on rads too) and the only difference between them were 3-pin vs PWM so this helps a lot.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm aware of that yes but when people are asking on forums the reply they normally get is _"There is no need for a custom loop ever, just use air or an AIO"_


That must have been the Kraken-Crew.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> So where do we go from here? With CPUs and GPUs not needing as much cooling, what will happen next? Will we all become dinosaurs and slowly die off or nah?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will there always be a need for watercooling?


If you need a reason, move to Oz.


----------



## Alex132

Do you think there will be much of a temperature difference in my RX360 running 800-1200rpm cougars at push/pull? (I currently have them at pull only).


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Do you think there will be much of a temperature difference in my RX360 running 800-1200rpm cougars at push/pull? (I currently have them at pull only).


I would say so, as you have a similar amount of FPI (you 13 / me 11) and I run them in push-pull.

EK states that my rad's would be suitable for low & high-speed fan's.

I use 2000rpm atm. , but as I have a sandwich, the performance should be comparable to your's.


----------



## Anatomics

Hello,

This is my new modded bitfenix case.

Specs:

Cpu: Intel Core i5-3570K
Mb: ASRock Z77E-ITX
Memory: 2 kpl Kingston HyperX DDR3 4 Gt
Gpu: EVGA GeForce GTX 660
SSD: PNY Optima 240 Gt
Psu: Bitfenix Fury 650W

Watercooling

EK-Supreme LTX CSQ cpu block
EK-FC660 GTX -gpu block
Alphacool D5 -pump
Alphacool 240 mm -rad on the roof
Phobya Xtreme 200 -rad in the front
EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150
EK 13/10
Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120 mm ja 230 mm fans


----------



## wermad

Wow! Awesome work







. Glad to see traditional tube being used.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow! Awesome work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Glad to see traditional tube being used.


Acrylic tubing in a mini-itx would give me nightmares







.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anatomics*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> This is my new modded bitfenix case.
> 
> Specs:
> 
> Cpu: Intel Core i5-3570K
> Mb: ASRock Z77E-ITX
> Memory: 2 kpl Kingston HyperX DDR3 4 Gt
> Gpu: EVGA GeForce GTX 660
> SSD: PNY Optima 240 Gt
> Psu: Bitfenix Fury 650W
> 
> Watercooling
> 
> EK-Supreme LTX CSQ cpu block
> EK-FC660 GTX -gpu block
> Alphacool D5 -pump
> Alphacool 240 mm -rad on the roof
> Phobya Xtreme 200 -rad in the front
> EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150
> EK 13/10
> Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120 mm ja 230 mm fans


Wow A+ work man I love everything about builds like this especially when you can see the bottom of the waterblock with colored coolant. Just a heads up they are now making short 970s and waterblocks for them so you could upgrade that gpu if you wanted to!

All around awsome build I love the white and orange.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Do you think there will be much of a temperature difference in my RX360 running 800-1200rpm cougars at push/pull? (I currently have them at pull only).
> 
> 
> 
> I would say so, as you have a similar amount of FPI (you 13 / me 11) and I run them in push-pull.
> 
> EK states that my rad's would be suitable for low & high-speed fan's.
> 
> I use 2000rpm atm. , but as I have a sandwich, the performance should be comparable to your's.
Click to expand...

| V | V | C |
~~~RAD~~~
| V | V | C |

V = Cougar vortex 1200rpm
C = Corsair SP120 Quiet

Do you think that would be okay? I have 4 Cougar fans / 2 SP120s


----------



## fleetfeather

would look ugly as sin


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> | V | V | C |
> ~~~RAD~~~
> | V | V | C |
> 
> V = Cougar vortex 1200rpm
> C = Corsair SP120 Quiet
> 
> Do you think that would be okay? I have 4 Cougar fans / 2 SP120s


Why not just get 4 cougars?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> | V | V | C |
> ~~~RAD~~~
> | V | V | C |
> 
> V = Cougar vortex 1200rpm
> C = Corsair SP120 Quiet
> 
> Do you think that would be okay? I have 4 Cougar fans / 2 SP120s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just get 4 cougars?
Click to expand...

Can't get them locally, and don't feel like spending $50 or something for 2 from Amazon + shipping. Those are the fans I currently have.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Can't get them locally, and don't feel like spending $50 or something for 2 from Amazon + shipping. Those are the fans I currently have.


Will you be able to see them? Honestly for most rads with the exception of monsta rads push pull is tottally un needed.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Can't get them locally, and don't feel like spending $50 or something for 2 from Amazon + shipping. Those are the fans I currently have.
> 
> 
> 
> Will you be able to see them? Honestly for most rads with the exception of monsta rads push pull is tottally un needed.
Click to expand...

Ah okay, I'll just replace 2 of the current Cougars with new ones then


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> | V | V | C |
> ~~~RAD~~~
> | V | V | C |
> 
> V = Cougar vortex 1200rpm
> C = Corsair SP120 Quiet
> 
> Do you think that would be okay? I have 4 Cougar fans / 2 SP120s


As that fan's have not much static pressure / air-flow, I would go for push / pull.

The Cougar are the better ones in that case.

Edit:

The RX360 and the 360XTX are equal in the flow-rate, but the RX360 performs much better with really low fan-speeds: Click

Also have a look here: Click

... and here: Click

... and lastly here: Click


----------



## Shoggy

Not really surprising but maybe interesting for those who still follow the _drama_:



It is one of three shipments that we dispatched only a few days before the bad news started to spread.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> As that fan's have not much static pressure / air-flow, I would go for push / pull.
> 
> The Cougar are the better ones in that case.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> The RX360 and the 360XTX are equal in the flow-rate, but the RX360 performs much better with really low fan-speeds: Click
> 
> Also have a look here: Click
> 
> ... and here: Click
> 
> ... and lastly here: Click


I know, that's why I got it originally. Running 800rpm Cougars








Just gotta find a way to replace the fans without removing the rad now


----------



## Bluemustang

Hmm, with my 480 UT60 in the bottom of my 900D I was going to run inlet through the top tank and outlet through bottom tank. But after thinking about bleeding it, would the top to bottom like that really cause bad issues with bleeding (air pockets rising to top and not getting pushed out is what i was thinking).

I'd prefer not to change the order with my plans unless itll be a serious issue. Thoughts?


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hmm, with my 480 UT60 in the bottom of my 900D I was going to run inlet through the top tank and outlet through bottom tank. But after thinking about bleeding it, would the top to bottom like that really cause bad issues with bleeding (air pockets rising to top and not getting pushed out is what i was thinking).
> 
> I'd prefer not to change the order with my plans unless itll be a serious issue. Thoughts?


I'd strongly recommend having the inlet as the lower port on the bottom rad for the exact reason you stated - airlocks. I had the same design issue myself in a different case and bleeding was significantly quicker and easier when i move the inlet to the bottom.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> I'd strongly recommend having the inlet as the lower port on the bottom rad for the exact reason you stated - airlocks. I had the same design issue myself in a different case and bleeding was significantly quicker and easier when i move the inlet to the bottom.


I dont really care how long it takes, if it takes a week to get an air bubble out instead of a few hours thats acceptable, i wont change up my design for that. I'm more concerned if its a permanent issue, and how bad could that issue be?


----------



## Turbz

Best practice design rather than a necessity I would think. Maybe someone else will comment with their experience. Considering you're in a 900d I think you'd be ok to stick with your current design as it's an easy case to tip at extreme angles in every direction to get the air out.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I know, that's why I got it originally. Running 800rpm Cougars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just gotta find a way to replace the fans without removing the rad now


Are you able to just unscrew the rad from the PC-Case ?

... if yes, then maybe just lay your case on the side.

That should be stable enough, if you used soft-tubing.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Best practice design rather than a necessity I would think. Maybe someone else will comment with their experience. Considering you're in a 900d I think you'd be ok to stick with your current design as it's an easy case to tip at extreme angles in every direction to get the air out.


Easy to tip a 900D around? Thats the first i've heard that heh. Will probably weigh close to 100lbs (eh possibly 80) but being so large makes it real iffy to move around like that, especially if i have to tilt it more than 90 degrees (upside down basically, which is probably what id have to do remove a bubble in the top of the rad, unless itll remove itself eventually).


----------



## Turbz

Easy relatively speaking I guess







I'm a big guy and my experience is with trying to tip a 200lb case with wheels to try and bleed it. Not fun.


----------



## guitarhero23

Anyone want to trade? I want to cool 4 RAMs not 2 so I'll trade my Ripjaws X 16GB 2x8 for 4x4


----------



## B NEGATIVE

SPOILER QUOTED PICS.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I know, that's why I got it originally. Running 800rpm Cougars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just gotta find a way to replace the fans without removing the rad now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you able to just unscrew the rad from the PC-Case ?
> 
> ... if yes, then maybe just lay your case on the side.
> 
> That should be stable enough, if you used soft-tubing.
Click to expand...

Oooooo

Nice idea


----------



## kcuestag

Please spoiler the pictures you are quoting, except for one. Quoting a bunch of repeated pictures will cause trouble to those with mobile Internet and annoy those who already seen them.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyone want to trade? I want to cool 4 RAMs not 2 so I'll trade my Ripjaws X 16GB 2x8 for 4x4


You need 35 reps for wanted/want-to-trade/for-sale in the ocn market. Ocn frowns upon asking in other threads for this.

Newegg has the Vengeance (red) 1600 2x4 @ $60:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233180

I'm tempted but that means I'll have to get red tube







. Don't really see the need to wc ram anymore. Btw, if youre careful, you can still add a block w/ two sticks. I tried it but felt better w/ four sticks tbh.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Glad to see traditional tube being used


Aw yiss it's Wrigley's time to shine!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyone want to trade? I want to cool 4 RAMs not 2 so I'll trade my Ripjaws X 16GB 2x8 for 4x4


try /r/hardwareswap on Reddit&#8230;though it helps to have a prior account there-preferably years old-for initial trustworthiness.


----------



## Recr3ational

Guys, Im working on a new build, I took out the factory on button, is there a decent replacement with the cable to the mobo? I don't mind cutting into the case..

Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys, Im working on a new build, I took out the factory on button, is there a decent replacement with the cable to the mobo? I don't mind cutting into the case..
> 
> Thanks


Uh Caselabs sells The I/O Switches with cables Attached.


I/O CABLES

The Cautious ONe

Found Cables Here Also


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys, Im working on a new build, I took out the factory on button, is there a decent replacement with the cable to the mobo? I don't mind cutting into the case..
> 
> Thanks


I have a Lamptron Vandal Switch which is really nice


----------



## wermad

Performance-pcs.com had them and you can order the cable. You can try to salvage the cable from your old setup with a little wire work.

Btw, if to don't mind spending a bit more, Lian Li sells a 5.25 bay i/o system: power, reset, front audio and USB (3.0 is a bit more expensive).


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You need 35 reps for wanted/want-to-trade/for-sale in the ocn market. Ocn frowns upon asking in other threads for this.
> 
> Newegg has the Vengeance (red) 1600 2x4 @ $60:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233180
> 
> I'm tempted but that means I'll have to get red tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't really see the need to wc ram anymore. Btw, if youre careful, you can still add a block w/ two sticks. I tried it but felt better w/ four sticks tbh.


Mine is blue. I still want to go with 4x. OCN has so many things not allowed/allowed, sorry, tough to remember it all lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Aw yiss it's Wrigley's time to shine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> try /r/hardwareswap on Reddit&#8230;though it helps to have a prior account there-preferably years old-for initial trustworthiness.


Trust people here more, but may try there. I've had a Reddit account for a couple years now.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Uh Caselabs sells The I/O Switches with cables Attached.
> 
> 
> I/O CABLES
> 
> The Cautious ONe
> 
> Found Cables Here Also


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have a Lamptron Vandal Switch which is really nice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Performance-pcs.com had them and you can order the cable. You can try to salvage the cable from your old setup with a little wire work.
> 
> Btw, if to don't mind spending a bit more, Lian Li sells a 5.25 bay i/o system: power, reset, front audio and USB (3.0 is a bit more expensive).


Thank you guys. Thats pretty much what i was looking for. I'll see what my options are. +rep.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Thank you guys. Thats pretty much what i was looking for. I'll see what my options are. +rep.


Thanks for the Rep and GOod Luck! We want follow up pics.

The Cautious One


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Mine is blue. I still want to go with 4x. OCN has so many things not allowed/allowed, sorry, tough to remember it all lol.
> Trust people here more, but may try there. I've had a Reddit account for a couple years now.


Understandable&#8230;but you gotta do what you gotta do until your rep increases here, I am afraid. Techpowerup as well does not have any "trading prerequisites", for the record.


----------



## guitarhero23

Anyone have any good examples of someone who frosted normally clear acrylic hard tube? Bonus points if liquid is pastel but I'll take all examples.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I've already got a build in a 540...way to small had trouble firing two thick 240mm rads in mine...


Well the s8 can fit 3 360 and a 240 rad at once it has ton if options


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Well the s8 can fit 3 360 and a 240 rad at once it has ton if options


Nice I'm going to check it out now


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyone have any good examples of someone who frosted normally clear acrylic hard tube? Bonus points if liquid is pastel but I'll take all examples.


Quite an Interesting Request!

TCO


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyone have any good examples of someone who frosted normally clear acrylic hard tube? Bonus points if liquid is pastel but I'll take all examples.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/480_20#post_20702271
http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/2840_40#post_22420614
http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/1560_20#post_21481719










edit: The last one has a pastel dye. Doesn't look as good imho.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyone have any good examples of someone who frosted normally clear acrylic hard tube? Bonus points if liquid is pastel but I'll take all examples.


Not the tubing itself, but I know @lowfat has frosted a clear acrylic reservoir. I'm sure he could shed some light on the topic


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/480_20#post_20702271
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/2840_40#post_22420614
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/1560_20#post_21481719
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: The last one has a pastel dye. Doesn't look as good imho.


Hmm interesting, almost gives regular dye a slight pastel look, and gives pastel dye the look like the tubing is solid color. Good to know, thanks!


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks for the Rep and GOod Luck! We want follow up pics.
> 
> The Cautious One


Will do, I need to clean up the case first. Its "slightly" dirty.

I bought the vandal cable and thinking about buying a Chinese version of the vandal switch. Do you think its the same?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Will do, I need to clean up the case first. Its "slightly" dirty.
> 
> I bought the vandal cable and thinking about buying a Chinese version of the vandal switch. Do you think its the same?


I have the same switch from both Lampton and ModRight and can't tell the difference, so I think you'd probably be fine


----------



## wermad

Excuse the quality, new phone, still working out the in's and out's







.

Going to attempt some diy blocking plates, since i have the blocks freed up right now







. Wish Koolance made one for their bridges


----------



## Domiro

Alright, I get the Alphastool now. Looks like Satan sneezed into my loop.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse the quality, new phone, still working out the in's and out's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .*
> *
> 
> Going to attempt some diy blocking plates, since i have the blocks freed up right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Wish Koolance made one for their bridges


Heck, I've had my new phone for about 3 months and I'm still learning the in's and out's of the camera. What did you get, out of curiosity?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Alright, I get the Alphastool now. Looks like Satan sneezed into my loop.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Will do, I need to clean up the case first. Its "slightly" dirty.
> 
> I bought the vandal cable and thinking about buying a Chinese version of the vandal switch. Do you think its the same?


I think it would be safe to assume they are all variations of the Same Product. You know what happens when you assume though.









TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Heck, I've had my new phone for about 3 months and I'm still learning the in's and out's of the camera. What did you get, out of curiosity?


Two Koolance 295x2 blocks, two Alphacool compression (BP oos, will need them for the mb "liquid pipe", don't trust Enzotech as they're too tight to use w/ Primochill), 15x chrome xspc plugs to replace the Monsta copper plugs.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Alright, I get the Alphastool now. Looks like Satan sneezed into my loop.


You mean bits and pieces of crap?

Yeah I am getting two new ACs shipped to the office and it looks like I can hook up a piece of new 3/4" tubing to the coffee machine nozzle and shoot some seriously hot water through them for an excellent flush. I have to be careful though, it is literally scalding.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You mean bits and pieces of crap?
> 
> Yeah I am getting two new ACs shipped to the office and it looks like I can hook up a piece of new 3/4" tubing to the coffee machine nozzle and shoot some seriously hot water through them for an excellent flush. I have to be careful though, it is literally scalding.


Yeah, blitz pro kit. Flushed both rads 3 times with DI including the obligatory dance 'n shake. Did part 2 twice with 6 liters of flushing between. Hairy muck that comes out looks like a hairball.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Two Koolance 295x2 blocks, two Alphacool compression (BP oos, will need them for the mb "liquid pipe", don't trust Enzotech as they're too tight to use w/ Primochill), 15x chrome xspc plugs to replace the Monsta copper plugs.


Holy crap you got 2 295x2's? You just want to watch the world burn literally don't you.







Are you going to be throwing those in the 900d build?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Two Koolance 295x2 blocks, two Alphacool compression (BP oos, will need them for the mb "liquid pipe", don't trust Enzotech as they're too tight to use w/ Primochill), 15x chrome xspc plugs to replace the Monsta copper plugs.


I meant what phone lol


----------



## psycho84

Tubing 2.0


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think it would be safe to assume they are all variations of the Same Product. You know what happens when you assume though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Haha yeah, well, we'll see.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Tubing 2.0


Very very impressive!! That's the exact color I'm looking for to add some pizza to my new loop and build I just finished two days ago. Well its not totally finished I'm waiting on some more green stuff like a rad cover and custom cables. But where did you get it and what brand is it. Kind of looks like you may have mixed colors to get to that wonderful green!!

Build I'm looking to add this coolant too!


----------



## pc-illiterate

@jesusnadinosaur spoiler quoted pictures. its pretty damned annoying seeing the same damned pictures every time you quote someone. ive seen them once. i dont need to see them again and its hell on both my phone and data usage! thank you.

btw, youve been told at least 2 other times today.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh for the love of there is a piece of metal rattling around inside this ST30 single 140 that just arrived. Other than that it's in nice shape. Sounds fairly large too; sure hope not too large to flush out. This make me really glad that I forgot I got an XSPC EX420 as well instead of two schtools....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Holy crap you got 2 295x2's? You just want to watch the world burn literally don't you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to be throwing those in the 900d build?


4k monitor coming in tomorrow, need em extra powah







. Yeah, there going into my 900D.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I meant what phone lol


Lol (







). Note 3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Tubing 2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So yummy...so







. I luvs green


----------



## Ironsmack

@wermad

What GPU did you have before?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> @wermad
> 
> What GPU did you have before?


Dont start him off...he is almost as bad as Szeged for new GPU's....

Nice blocks Werm.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> @jesusnadinosaur spoiler quoted pictures. its pretty damned annoying seeing the same damned pictures every time you quote someone. ive seen them once. i dont need to see them again and its hell on both my phone and data usage! thank you.
> 
> btw, youve been told at least 2 other times today.


Then ignore them the question wasn't directed at you in any way. And who told me anything twice today already?

And if it annoys you that much then turn Off the notifications to your phone. I'm not responsible for your data usage.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> @jesusnadinosaur spoiler quoted pictures. its pretty damned annoying seeing the same damned pictures every time you quote someone. ive seen them once. i dont need to see them again and its hell on both my phone and data usage! thank you.
> 
> btw, youve been told at least 2 other times today.
> 
> 
> 
> Then ignore them the question wasn't directed at you in any way. And who told me anything twice today already?
> 
> And if it annoys you that much then turn Off the notifications to your phone. I'm not responsible for your data usage.
Click to expand...

It is a rule of this thread to spoiler quoted pics,if you wish to be welcomed here then spoiler quoted pics.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is a rule of this thread to spoiler quoted pics,if you wish to be welcomed here then spoiler quoted pics.


Alright thanks for the heads up. I'm new to this forum so I apologize if I'm not up on all the rules yet. How would I make a quoted pic a spoiler?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Then ignore them the question wasn't directed at you in any way. And who told me anything twice today already?
> 
> And if it annoys you that much then turn Off the notifications to your phone. I'm not responsible for your data usage.


There's a reason for it beyond those using mobile devices


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Alright thanks for the heads up. I'm new to this forum so I apologize if I'm not up on all the rules yet. How would I make a quoted pic a spoiler?


Highlight images in quote and press the box please.



TCO

Spoiler


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Spoiler





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Spoiler


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is a rule of this thread to spoiler quoted pics,if you wish to be welcomed here then spoiler quoted pics.


I appologize, I see what he meant now I didn't realize that it reposted the pics everytime I quoted someone's post, I just thought that was the way you would respond to someone's post to they could see it. Won't happen again.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

It's always an option to simply remove the image links in the quote though I suppose that is more of a to do on mobile. One of the other reasons it's a rule is this thread moves fast and is ginormous as it is.

Edit: Obviously, it is ok to leave any on which you may be commenting directly&#8230;just use common sense.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> It's always an option to simply remove the image links in the quote. One of the reasons *it's a rule is this thread moves fast and is ginormous as it is.*


This ^^^^^^^^^^^^


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> @wermad
> 
> What GPU did you have before?


Triple 290s. Was gonna throw in a fourth but it blocks the headers on the GB boards. I know this first hand and it sucks having to micky-mouse things to make them work. Wish block makers can take this into account but the segment for quads is very small and so I don't think they will bother with this concern. Two Vesuvius cards blocked will only use two slots and plenty of space for my connections on the bottom headers. .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont start him off...he is almost as bad as Szeged for new GPU's....
> 
> Nice blocks Werm.










(I'm bad







)

Thanks! I have a i380, might as well match the gpu blocks. Plus, at about 50% the cost of an EK, AC, or HK, it was a no-brainer. Ocn-ocd kicks in w/ mismatched blocks I guess.

On a side note, made some blocking plates from some spare acrylic. My band saw needs to be tweaked as it tends to sway a bit. Luckily, nothing major and I made an extra as backup. Everything fitted w/ M4 screws (bolted w/ nuts) and looks secured. Only thing i had difficulty was tapping the acrylic. I've done quite a few acrylic pieces but this time, only two out of six holes grabbed. I messed one up resorting to a drill going slowly. I was luck I had a baggie full of m4 nuts and its just easier this way.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 4k monitor coming in tomorrow, need em extra powah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Yeah, there going into my 900D.
> *Lol (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Note 3*
> So yummy...so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I luvs green


Very nice. I was considering the Note 4 before getting my OnePlus One.

I've been contemplating a new monitor as well. Can't decide between 4K or Ultrawide. Although I debezeled and mounted my triple monitor setup finally and am happy with that so far, so I might stick with that for a while


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This ^^^^^
> 
> Thanks for the heads up now I know. Won't happen again. Don't hate meee.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Very nice. I was considering the Note 4 before getting my OnePlus One.
> 
> I've been contemplating a new monitor as well. Can't decide between 4K or Ultrawide. Although I debezeled and mounted my triple monitor setup finally and am happy with that so far, so I might stick with that for a while


Most importantly, it fits my hands and I can use the keyboard properly w/ my digits. Note 4 was too pricey for my budget and as of this year, Walmart has to charge sales tax on the msrp vs the sale price ($49 phone, $63 in sales tax







). Coming off a Note 2 for just a year, its very nice having a lighter phone and the 1080 screen is very nice. Wife actually got one too (haha, she changed her mind).

As for monitors, I was on the fence on a 32" Qnix 1440 or a Samsung 4k (or acer). I did contemplate Eyefinity 1440, but I have a bunch old games that refuse to run in MMG. I ended up w/ the Samsung (preowned), though the colors were better on the Qnix imho, I decided on the bigger resolution of the Samsung. It also fits on my desk (Qnix would have required some remodeling of my desk setup).

Anyone: rubber o-ring won't mess w/ acrylic????? Thanks


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Most importantly, it fits my hands and I can use the keyboard properly w/ my digits. Note 4 was too pricey for my budget and as of this year, Walmart has to charge sales tax on the msrp vs the sale price ($49 phone, $63 in sales tax
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Coming off a Note 2 for just a year, its very nice having a lighter phone and the 1080 screen is very nice. Wife actually got one too (haha, she changed her mind).
> 
> As for monitors, I was on the fence on a 32" Qnix 1440 or a Samsung 4k (or acer). I did contemplate Eyefinity 1440, but I have a bunch old games that refuse to run in MMG. I ended up w/ the Samsung (preowned), though the colors were better on the Qnix imho, I decided on the bigger resolution of the Samsung. It also fits on my desk (Qnix would have required some remodeling of my desk setup).
> 
> Anyone: rubber o-ring won't mess w/ acrylic????? Thanks


My desk was a huge problem when it came to mounting my monitors. I have a clamp style mount, but the desk I built didn't have anything to clap to so I had to build a little stand to clamp to instead. Works just fine and I actually prefer it since the desk and monitors are not one massive weight. Much easier to maneuver if I ever need to get back there to work on something. You can see the top of the stand in the picture.


----------



## wermad

Very nice









Wife won't let me use the kitchen table as a worktop no more, so I have this desk I made a bit ago for the 5x1 setup. Its now full of other crap I need for the office. So the 4k monitor was a practical choice (also gave me the excuse to upgrade to crossfire 295x2







) considering the limited space I have to use and work on this rig..

Going to leak test these diy plates. Crossing fingers they hold. As much as I would love to use the BP Aqualinks, the weight of the cards will just extend the links rather then help w/ support.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> @wermad
> 
> What GPU did you have before?
> 
> 
> 
> Dont start him off...he is almost as bad as Szeged for new GPU's....
> 
> Nice blocks Werm.
Click to expand...

But he has great prices when he dumps the ones he just got tired of . . .









Darlene


----------



## wermad

Hehe, gotta move on







. Good thing these ain't cars (







)

edit: kinda of shocked you didn't get a Vulture


----------



## Ceadderman

Lemme know when you get tired of the 290x2s' werm.









Additionally, I avoid picture quotes amap because my phone doesn't allow for brackets unless quoted and that's such a PitA.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Pepperoni or bacon pizza lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lemme know when you get tired of the 290x2s' werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally, I avoid picture quotes amap because my phone doesn't allow for brackets unless quoted and that's such a PitA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Will do







. 395x2....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Pepperoni or bacon pizza lol


Me no likes bacon...I get lots of hate for this







.

How about liquid cooling w/ bacon juices....? Mineral oils, ha! Bacon fat is where its at (course, I'm just kidding







).


----------



## KuuFA

So I recently acquired some EK VGA supreme blocks that were used, upon taking them apart the block was gunked up with some black stuff fearing it was corrosion I attempted to use my nail to get some of it off and i was successful, It is now sitting in a coke bath.

So how long can i keep it in the coke bath for? is it okay if i let it sit overnight? Would ketchup be better?


Spoiler: The Copper bases









Also the acetal upper has some caked dots on it and while I can get it off by hand it would be extremely tedious as it is all over the place. So far I have soaked it in hot soapy water in attempt to soften it up it has been sitting for about an hour I tried to use a q-tip to dislodge the foreign objects but no success its still very hard and attached to the acetal.

Is there any other way to clean acetal that would make the cleaning process faster? or just soaking it in soapy water should soften it up?


Spoiler: The Acetal Upper










I asked what was used in the blocks and he claims it was always with distilled with a kill coil but the blocks say otherwise?

Edit: Added some pictures


----------



## emsj86

Not liking bacon is just un American lol jk. (And I'm probably an asshat) as yu probably for eu


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> So I recently acquired some EK VGA supreme blocks that were used, upon taking them apart the block was gunked up with some black stuff fearing it was corrosion I attempted to use my nail to get some of it off and i was successful, It is now sitting in a coke bath.
> 
> So how long can i keep it in the coke bath for? is it okay if i let it sit overnight? Would ketchup be better?
> 
> Also the acetal upper has some caked dots on it and while I can get it off by hand it would be extremely tedious as it is all over the place. So far I have soaked it in hot soapy water in attempt to soften it up it has been sitting for about an hour I tried to use a q-tip to dislodge the foreign objects but no success its still very hard and attached to the acetal.
> 
> Is there any other way to clean acetal that would make the cleaning process faster? or just soaking it in soapy water should soften it up?
> 
> I asked what was used in the blocks and he claims it was always with distilled with a kill coil but the blocks say otherwise?


-Run your blocks through the hot tap on your faucet. Rinse a few times w/ distilled or d/i water

-Flush using a mix of water and white vinegar (10 to 1, water to vinegar)

-If you have copper blocks, using some copper polish/cleaner you can find at the store. Or cover it in ketchup.

I wouldn't leave it too long in the coke bath. it can be a pita cleaning preowned stuff. Even nickel plated stuff. I typically ask the owners (before buying) what they ran so I'm prepared to tackle any cleaning. Well, this is hindsight for your case.

The important thing is to make sure the o-rings are intact. The rest, you can find ways of cleaning or restoring them. .


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> -Run your blocks through the hot tap on your faucet. Rinse a few times w/ distilled or d/i water
> 
> -Flush using a mix of water and white vinegar (10 to 1, water to vinegar)
> 
> -If you have copper blocks, using some copper polish/cleaner you can find at the store. Or cover it in ketchup.
> 
> I wouldn't leave it too long in the coke bath. it can be a pita cleaning preowned stuff. Even nickel plated stuff. I typically ask the owners (before buying) what they ran so I'm prepared to tackle any cleaning. Well, this is hindsight for your case.
> 
> The important thing is to make sure the o-rings are intact. The rest, you can find ways of cleaning or restoring them. .


Looking at the pictures that is what you would do? Because just rinsing it wont get it out I feel....

Well I did ask before I bought and that was the key of me buying it and it was from an OCN member too... which makes me a bit sad but I got it at a throw away price so I can't complain.

thanks for the quick response though. I thought things would get lost in this thread lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Looking at the pictures that is what you would do? Because just rinsing it wont get it out I feel....
> 
> Well I did ask before I bought and that was the key of me buying it and it was from an OCN member too... which makes me a bit sad but I got it at a throw away price so I can't complain.
> 
> thanks for the quick response though. I thought things would get lost in this thread lol.


Pick up Wieman metal polish ( got mine at walmart). The jet plate is stainless steel and the base is copper. Both can be worked w/ the Weiman. Buy some soft tooth brushes (or use some old ones, but clear of paste). Dab some Weiman on the base and let it sit there for a couple of minutes. Then work it w/ the tooth brush and let it sit again. Repeat a few times and most of the stuff will be gone. For the acetal, use some hot soapy water. I would leave it there for a few minutes and then go at it w/ the tooth brush. Don't go aggressive w/ things like scotch-brites. Those will really eat into the material and start scraping it severely. If you work it for a bit, it will come out proper. I spent a couple of hours restoring an Aquacomputer Kryos HF block. The top nickel portion wasn't that bad but the base was in need of a good clean and polish (previous owner used paste). I didn't buff like a pro, but it came out pretty good.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pick up Wieman metal polish ( got mine at walmart). The jet plate is stainless steel and the base is copper. Both can be worked w/ the Weiman. Buy some soft tooth brushes (or use some old ones, but clear of paste). Dab some Weiman on the base and let it sit there for a couple of minutes. Then work it w/ the tooth brush and let it sit again. Repeat a few times and most of the stuff will be gone. For the acetal, use some hot soapy water. I would leave it there for a few minutes and then go at it w/ the tooth brush. Don't go aggressive w/ things like scotch-brites. Those will really eat into the material and start scraping it severely. If you work it for a bit, it will come out proper. I spent a couple of hours restoring an Aquacomputer Kryos HF block. The top nickel portion wasn't that bad but the base was in need of a good clean and polish (previous owner used paste). I didn't buff like a pro, but it came out pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Looks pretty!


Okay So after going back to it and Scraping some more off with my finger nail, It comes off green. So I am leaning towards just Algae growth after pulling from a system and not cleaning it and then letting the algae dry? anyway Its sticky and green and its all over the place lol.

I'll head to walmart tomorrow and grab some paste and I'll scrub like there is no tomorrow with a soft toothbrush although the crevices of the acetal upper will be a pain ill try to get most of it out.

Thanks again! Ill post some results tomorrow.


----------



## Ceadderman

Gonna say this yet again...

For Copper, go with Ketsup in the chamber. Works marvelously for cleaning corrosion/algae out of Copper blocks. Wish I'dve taken before shots of my Supremacy, but all that is left of the corrosion is the water stain from the water I had unintentionally let sit while I was away. I pushed the ketsup into the channels lightly with my fingertip and it cleaned out all the corrosion.

I will try to post a pic of the end result but it really works well. The copper is not as shiny as new but the top being Red Acrylic, you won't even notice. I rinsed the block with hot tap water and dried it with the low setting of my heatgun, since my hairdrier no longer dries anything. I have closed my block up and put caps in to keep air from further oxidating the interior. Gonna need some Nev-R-Dull to bring the shine back for the base but it's an old block now, so that was to be expected.









Oh and wOw... Although I add a can of coke to a load of grease stained laundry(does a real good job as degreaser) I would not rec it for metal as it can pit soft metals.









~Ceadder


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna say this yet again...
> 
> For Copper, go with Ketsup in the chamber. Works marvelously for cleaning corrosion/algae out of Copper blocks. Wish I'dve taken before shots of my Supremacy, but all that is left of the corrosion is the water stain from the water I had unintentionally let sit while I was away. I pushed the ketsup into the channels lightly with my fingertip and it cleaned out all the corrosion.
> 
> I will try to post a pic of the end result but it really works well. The copper is not as shiny as new but the top being Red Acrylic, you won't even notice. I rinsed the block with hot tap water and dried it with the low setting of my heatgun, since my hairdrier no longer dries anything. I have closed my block up and put caps in to keep air from further oxidating the interior. Gonna need some Nev-R-Dull to bring the shine back for the base but it's an old block now, so that was to be expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah I had great experiences with ketchup before but can I just put the jet plate in the ketchup with it? Then what do I do about the algae covered acetal top?


----------



## wermad

Algea, well, if you have a pool....









You can boil it as acetal has a melting point of 175c. Just make sure it dost boil to long. This will soften up the gunk and carefully scrub away.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna say this yet again...
> 
> For Copper, go with Ketsup in the chamber. Works marvelously for cleaning corrosion/algae out of Copper blocks. Wish I'dve taken before shots of my Supremacy, but all that is left of the corrosion is the water stain from the water I had unintentionally let sit while I was away. I pushed the ketsup into the channels lightly with my fingertip and it cleaned out all the corrosion.
> 
> I will try to post a pic of the end result but it really works well. The copper is not as shiny as new but the top being Red Acrylic, you won't even notice. I rinsed the block with hot tap water and dried it with the low setting of my heatgun, since my hairdrier no longer dries anything. I have closed my block up and put caps in to keep air from further oxidating the interior. Gonna need some Nev-R-Dull to bring the shine back for the base but it's an old block now, so that was to be expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I had great experiences with ketchup before but can I just put the jet plate in the ketchup with it? Then what do I do about the algae covered acetal top?
Click to expand...

You can. It's stainless steel so the ketchup should only clean it. However, I am not using that plate so I can send it to you should you not wish to clean that or anything happen to that plate as a result. I cleaned my jetplate with vinegar and rubbed my thumb on it. The algae came right off.









~Ceadder


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

My desk was a huge problem when it came to mounting my monitors. I have a clamp style mount, but the desk I built didn't have anything to clap to so I had to build a little stand to clamp to instead. Works just fine and I actually prefer it since the desk and monitors are not one massive weight. Much easier to maneuver if I ever need to get back there to work on something. You can see the top of the stand in the picture.

Nice!! Do you have any pictures of the inside of your desk. I'm extremely interested in it and plan to do a desk build this summer. Did you make the desk yourself?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Swiftech support turned me onto soaking the block in a solution of distilled + Pine Sol (I did like 2/3 water) and it completely salvaged a badly corroded Apogee HD I thought was done for. Covered in greenish-white inside, though, maybe not the same thing as your blocks.


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is a rule of this thread to spoiler quoted pics,if you wish to be welcomed here then spoiler quoted pics.


make sure to spoiler this...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> My desk was a huge problem when it came to mounting my monitors. I have a clamp style mount, but the desk I built didn't have anything to clap to so I had to build a little stand to clamp to instead. Works just fine and I actually prefer it since the desk and monitors are not one massive weight. Much easier to maneuver if I ever need to get back there to work on something. You can see the top of the stand in the picture.
> 
> Nice!! Do you have any pictures of the inside of your desk. I'm extremely interested in it and plan to do a desk build this summer. Did you make the desk yourself?


I did. Check out my build log in my sig

Also, one thing to add onto the ketchup cleaning copper, I'd like to through hot sauce into the mix. Not nearly as thick as ketchup so it's easier to clean out of the microchannels. It also works a little faster than ketchup since I assume it's a higher acidity than ketchup.


----------



## khemist

Not sure if this has been posted yet, but it seems Specialtech in the UK has closed, that was my favourite place to order from.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if this has been posted yet, but it seems Specialtech in the UK has closed, that was my favourite place to order from.


I read the picture before your comment and thought this was regarding FrozenCPU. Still waiting on that statement. Glad I stocked up on my tubing from then since it was the only place I could find it at the time. I think that's changed since then though. It was probably 3 or 4 years ago by now


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Not sure if this has been posted yet, but it seems Specialtech in the UK has closed, that was my favourite place to order from.


its funny I was just looking at that very page myself...


----------



## VSG

On a positive (?) note, Newegg is actually carrying custom loop parts now.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> On a positive (?) note, Newegg is actually carrying custom loop parts now.


I wonder what the quality is like. Prices don't look too terrible. The angled adapters look a lot like the EK angled adapters


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Algea, well, if you have a pool....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can boil it as acetal has a melting point of 175c. Just make sure it dost boil to long. This will soften up the gunk and carefully scrub away.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can. It's stainless steel so the ketchup should only clean it. However, I am not using that plate so I can send it to you should you not wish to clean that or anything happen to that plate as a result. I cleaned my jetplate with vinegar and rubbed my thumb on it. The algae came right off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks For the help guys!

I boiled It in a mixture of vinegar and water for about 1 hour, taking the acetal and the blocks out to brush not really leaving the acetal in for that long, and used a toothbrush to scrub things clean the results are amazing. here are some pics!


Spoiler: Before!















Spoiler: The Experiment!














Thanks again Wermad and Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Schweetz


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> On a positive (?) note, Newegg is actually carrying custom loop parts now.


Figured a company like thermaltake would mean some of the items would be cheaper, guess not (90+ for 240 rad) Would rather just go with a trusted brand at that price.


----------



## wermad

Lot of the stuff looks like the knock off stuff on ebay









Eh, just be warned their customer service is very lacking.


----------



## gdubc

It might have already been said, but browsing dazmode and I noticed this: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/scythe_gentle_typhoon_2150rpm_69cfm_30db_fan/
Seems they must have put in a big enough order to start their own distribution of AP whathaveyous.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It might have already been said, but browsing dazmode and I noticed this: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/scythe_gentle_typhoon_2150rpm_69cfm_30db_fan/
> Seems they must have put in a big enough order to start their own distribution of AP whathaveyous.


Hallelujah


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It might have already been said, but browsing dazmode and I noticed this: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/scythe_gentle_typhoon_2150rpm_69cfm_30db_fan/
> Seems they must have put in a big enough order to start their own distribution of AP whathaveyous.


people who run high-speed fans for watercooling confuse me.

"let's take my loud rig, spend a lot of money on a more efficient cooling method, and make it equally loud".


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh. Wake me when they actually decide to compete in the WC market. Thermaltake don't cut it. I used to get excited about Newegg but since they went Amazon on us the excitement is gone.









Lookn good KuuFA. Although that 2nd block would do well. With Ketsup. Looks much better though.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBored

Hi guys, hoping to get some ideas and feedback.
The idea was to route from the front rad up and left into the right port of the VRM block. But now I realized it'll block the fill port for the res.
Not really keen on having a pipe pass over the res into the left ram block but I can't think of anything else.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> people who run high-speed fans for watercooling confuse me.
> 
> "let's take my loud rig, spend a lot of money on a more efficient cooling method, and make it equally loud".


I went for water to push things further and I like to hear if things are working or not.

Beside that, pretty much everyone uses a Headset these day's.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It might have already been said, but browsing dazmode and I noticed this: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/scythe_gentle_typhoon_2150rpm_69cfm_30db_fan/
> Seems they must have put in a big enough order to start their own distribution of AP whathaveyous.


Oh my how have I not seen these black GT's before...


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> I went for water to push things further and I like to hear if things are working or not.
> 
> Beside that, pretty much everyone uses a Headset these day's.


What voltages are you pushing that require a loop?

I am of the opinion that watercooling really isn't necessary for pushing modern components. If you need the watercooling to keep temps in line, you're using too much voltage.

(to clarify, I'm not against watercooling in general. i'm against loud watercooling)


----------



## Ramzinho

I didn't even know thermaltake has a watercooling gear lineup!!!! why are these guys not advertising much ?


----------



## fleetfeather

cos aluminium


----------



## charliebrown

OK so I want to order a mb tray and a long midplate from coldzero for 900d but when I put in cart it does not convert to us dollars anyone know how much this will be in US currency


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Blocks for the EK Vulture build.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hehe, gotta move on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Good thing these ain't cars (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> edit: *kinda of shocked you didn't get a Vulture*


Nah . . . Those guys that did are in a league above me . . . .

Though it would be cool to see that curved window open up like a classic gullwing Mercedes Benz 300SL









Darlene


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> What voltages are you pushing that require a loop?
> 
> I am of the opinion that watercooling really isn't necessary for pushing modern components. If you need the watercooling to keep temps in line, you're using too much voltage.
> 
> (to clarify, I'm not against watercooling in general. i'm against loud watercooling)


- CPU: Intel Core i7 3770k @4700MHz @1.435V

- Memory: G.Skill 16G(4*4G) DDR3-2400 Quad Channel [TDX] F3-2400C10Q-16GTX (10-11-11-28-2T) @1.690V

- Graphics Card: 2x Gigabyte GTX780-Ti-GHz-Edition-3GB in 2-Way-SLI (skyn3t BIOS-MOD | Power-Target: 130% | Temp-Target: 95C | Core-Voltage: 1.313V | Boost disabled | GPU-Clock (max stable): 1431MHz | Memory-Clock (max stable): 7354MHz)

We're living / renting an old Queenslander (Cottage-Home) with Metal-Roof and without Whirly-Birds and no Insulation.

My 12 sandwiched BGears B-Blaster are classed @35db, but are louder when used the way I do, but for me they are relatively quiet, like the rest of my Case-Fan's of my Thermaltake Level-10 GT LCS.

When I still had my 2600k, I decided to remove the Fan's of my Thermaltake FRIO OCK and to replace them with 2x EBM-PAPST 4112NH4.





They performed quite well and I was able to push my 2600k to @5047MHz on Air, but my wife threatened to divorce me, if I would kept running them, because she just set beside me.

I have to admit that they were a bit too noisy (>67db), even with some foam between the Fan's and the Heat-Sink and I got a NZXT. Sentry Mesh Fan-Controller for them.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Silly double posting nonsense


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nah . . . Those guys that did are in a league above me . . . .
> 
> Though it would be cool to see that curved window open up like a classic gullwing Mercedes Benz 300SL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It seems like these days its not enough to have the modding skills and style. The photography must be just as good.

Its like water cooling is becoming the watercooling / photography club
Which is fair enough. A good proportion of the hobby has moved on from the pure performance side to the creating of systems that look even better than they work.

It has become a genuine art ... and the great builds are art pieces.

Which is just what the manufacturers want .. their products showcased in the best possible light. They are getting a great deal with some studio quality photography of their stuff.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> On a positive (?) note, Newegg is actually carrying custom loop parts now.


Wow I never new Thermaltake made all that kind of stuff! They make a 200$ pump ?!?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nah . . . Those guys that did are in a league above me . . . .
> 
> Though it would be cool to see that curved window open up like a classic gullwing Mercedes Benz 300SL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems like these days its not enough to have the modding skills and style. The photography must be just as good.
> 
> Its like water cooling is become the watercooling / photography club
> 
> Which is fair enough. A good proportion of the hobby has moved on from the pure performance side to the creating of systems that look even better than they work.
> 
> It has become a genuine art ... and the great builds are art pieces.
> 
> Which is just what the manufacturers want .. their products showcased in the best possible light. They are getting a great deal with some studio quality photography of their stuff.
Click to expand...

Perfectly said !


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Perfectly said !


It looks like that they spend an equal amount of money on their photography equipment.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> It looks like that they spend an equal amount of money on their photography equipment.


From what I have heard you are exactly right. Some guy didn't like some pics I had uploaded of my rig and I asked why and he was talking about I love the rig it's beautiful but the photography sucks....talking about me getting a 2000$ camera and lights and tripods... I wish I just had thousands upon thousands of dollars to blow on cameras but unfortunatly I do not right now...maybe I could get a good photographer take pics of it for me till I can afford my own nice camera..


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> From what I have heard you are exactly right. Some guy didn't like some pics I had uploaded of my rig and I asked why and he was talking about I love the rig it's beautiful but the photography sucks....talking about me getting a 2000$ camera and lights and tripods... I wish I just had thousands upon thousands of dollars to blow on cameras but unfortunatly I do not right now...maybe I could get a good photographer take pics of it for me till I can afford my own nice camera..


Even if you would have the money for such an equipment, then you have still to learn how to take nearly perfect photo's.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Even if you would have the money for such an equipment, then you have still to learn how to take nearly perfect photo's.


Yeah and that's what the guy was saying. Told me I ahold get an expensive camera but then went on to say...well then you'll also need to learn how to lose it proporly or you will come out with $2000 potato pics. I took some photography classes when I was younger and have always dated girls that were super into photagraphy. I'm good at photos hop so I'm sure I could figure it out.

But I'm honestly more interested in building systems as opposed to spending the same amount on a camera I'd only use to take photos of pcs.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Yeah and that's what the guy was saying. Told me I ahold get an expensive camera but then went on to say...well then you'll also need to learn how to lose it proporly or you will come out with $2000 potato pics. I took some photography classes when I was younger and have always dated girls that were super into photagraphy. I'm good at photos hop so I'm sure I could figure it out.
> 
> But I'm honestly more interested in building systems as opposed to spending the same amount on a camera I'd only use to take photos of pcs.


Yeah, me too.

My wife is quite good in taking nice photo's, even with a mobile phone and she would like to have a good setup, because she does custom cakes (with airbrush etc.) beside working / studying as a nurse.

Maybe I will start to save some money and surprise her one day with a proper setup.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Perfectly said !
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like that they spend an equal amount of money on their photography equipment.
Click to expand...

Not me mate,an old 350d,a roll of vinyl and a cheap softbox off ebay.

Job done.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not me mate,an old 350d,a roll of vinyl and a cheap softbox off ebay.
> 
> Job done.


Thanks for the Info !

That would be actually even affordable, at least second hand.


----------



## snef

guys, all you said about expensive equipement is false

most of my pics are from a $200 12 years Canon point and shoot camera with manual sttings, black sheet for background, a $20 tripod and computer screen as light source



youre right , photo are more than 50% of the final result

just spend same time to share your work as build it

just take a couple minute more than take pics with an iphone with flash

no need to have a photostudio and professional equipement


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> - CPU: Intel Core i7 3770k @4700MHz @*1.435V*
> 
> - Memory: G.Skill 16G(4*4G) DDR3-2400 Quad Channel [TDX] F3-2400C10Q-16GTX (10-11-11-28-2T) @*1.690V*
> 
> - Graphics Card: 2x Gigabyte GTX780-Ti-GHz-Edition-3GB in 2-Way-SLI (skyn3t BIOS-MOD | Power-Target: 130% | Temp-Target: 95C | Core-Voltage: *1.313V* | Boost disabled | GPU-Clock (max stable): 1431MHz | Memory-Clock (max stable): 7354MHz)
> 
> We're living / renting an old Queenslander (Cottage-Home) with Metal-Roof and without Whirly-Birds and no Insulation.


Would not be keen to run 1.43V on a IB chip, or 1.3V on the core of a 780Ti









the ambient in summer must be... 36*C. You'd likely save money by renting a different place w/ insulation installed (especially over winter, unless you're in FNQ).


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> guys, all you said about expensive equipement is false
> 
> most of my pics are from a $200 12 years Canon point and shoot camera with manual sttings, black sheet for background, a $20 tripod and computer screen as light source
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> youre right , photo are more than 50% of the final result
> 
> just spend same time to share your work as build it
> 
> just take a couple minute more than take pics with an iphone with flash
> 
> no need to have a photostudio and professional equipement


Thanks for sharing the Info !

I never would have thought of using a computer screen as a light source.

All your photo's are awesome as well and I may look / read a bit more into the whole subject, if I have some spare-time.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Would not be keen to run 1.43V on a IB chip, or 1.3V on the core of a 780Ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the ambient in summer must be... 36*C. You'd likely save money by renting a different place w/ insulation installed (especially over winter, unless you're in FNQ).


My CPU-OC was bench-stable with a lower voltage, but BF3 / BF4 would crash without a further increase.

The GPU-Temp's are ok (35-37C when gaming / 40-45C when benching), but I do not run them with the max. OC 24/7.

I had to increase the RAM-Voltages to be able to tighten the timings from @10-12-12-31-2T @1.65V to @10-11-11-28-2T @1.69V.

Our place is an absolute hot-box in summer and pretty much a fridge in winter.

The location is quite handy for us, because we have only 1 car, but we are close to Wynnum-Central.

Beside that, it's affordable with 345,- per week (2x bed-room's), has fast I-Net, but only an AirCon in the living-room, where our PC's are located as well.

We may move when my wife is finished with her study, which should be in around 3-4 years.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hi guys, hoping to get some ideas and feedback.
> The idea was to route from the front rad up and left into the right port of the VRM block. But now I realized it'll block the fill port for the res.
> Not really keen on having a pipe pass over the res into the left ram block but I can't think of anything else.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How hard is it to do tight bends with that as tubing? Also I'm on Mobile so it's hard to see, is the rad out at the top of the case or bottom. I'm assuming top?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I know its not watercooling but...it has copper!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> guys, all you said about expensive equipement is false
> 
> most of my pics are from a $200 12 years Canon point and shoot camera with manual sttings, black sheet for background, a $20 tripod and computer screen as light source
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> youre right , photo are more than 50% of the final result
> 
> just spend same time to share your work as build it
> 
> just take a couple minute more than take pics with an iphone with flash
> 
> no need to have a photostudio and professional equipement


WHOA SNEF!! Did anyone not see the Case? What you got here snef? New Caselabs by chance? Or Am I imagining things?

TCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not watercooling but...it has copper!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How did you get the Custom Panels Made anyway B Neg?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not watercooling but...it has copper!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not watercooling but...it has copper!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And it looks awesome ! Yours ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not watercooling but...it has copper!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it looks awesome ! Yours ?
Click to expand...

Yup,its mid build...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1531403/sponsored-hexgear-idoru/0_20


----------



## Turbz

That is stunning.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> WHOA SNEF!! Did anyone not see the Case? What you got here snef? New Caselabs by chance? Or Am I imagining things?


Just looks like an SM8 to me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How did you get the Custom Panels Made anyway B Neg?


Wouldn't be surprised if he made them himself. Or had the guys over at Parvum CNC then out for him


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> WHOA SNEF!! Did anyone not see the Case? What you got here snef? New Caselabs by chance? Or Am I imagining things?
> 
> 
> 
> Just looks like an SM8 to me
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How did you get the Custom Panels Made anyway B Neg?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wouldn't be surprised if he made them himself. Or had the guys over at Parvum CNC then out for him
Click to expand...

No,I got Nate at E22 to laser them for me this time.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,I got Nate at E22 to laser them for me this time.


I need to find all these connections locally that you seem to just pull out of your pocket as needed lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,I got Nate at E22 to laser them for me this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to find all these connections locally that you seem to just pull out of your pocket as needed lol
Click to expand...

Research my good man,research.

For 2D stuff just look for a local laser cutter,they normally do small pieces easily enough.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Research my good man,research.
> 
> For 2D stuff just look for a local laser cutter,they normally do small pieces easily enough.


I think my boss actually found a laser cutter right down the street. And we've been looking into getting a turret punch here at the shop as well. I just really like making things myself. I wish there was some kind of open to the public machine shop with all that tooling available for rental time or something. I'd love to learn how to run a laser cutter and whatnot. And I've been playing around with TurboCAD a lot recently too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Just looks like an SM8 to me
> Wouldn't be surprised if he made them himself. Or had the guys over at Parvum CNC then out for him


THis could be true about the SM8

Good Call.

TCO


----------



## nepToon

Forgot to post in here, it's the current state of my build and it's been running for quite some time now.

Still working my way through all the posts but absolutely sick builds so far.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Just looks like an SM8 to me
> Wouldn't be surprised if he made them himself. Or had the guys over at Parvum CNC then out for him


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Forgot to post in here, it's the current state of my build and it's been running for quite some time now.
> 
> Still working my way through all the posts but absolutely sick builds so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great Work!

The Cautious ONe


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh thank god--Sidewinder is back up. Gary (or the host) must have been working on the site last night cause it redirected to some placeholder for a time. I thought for a few we had lost yet another one (despite what he said in the FCPU thread).


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Oh thank god--Sidewinder is back up. Gary (or the host) must have been working on the site last night cause it redirected to some placeholder for a time. I thought for a few we had lost yet another one (despite what he said in the FCPU thread).


Quote:


> Natashia Johnson‎FrozenCPU
> 
> 18 February at 23:49 ·
> 
> To all of the loyal Frozencpu fans out there....
> This is Marks wife smile emoticon
> I've seen the uproar of rumors that have spread like wildfire
> At this point... I'm not able to give any formal statement or explanation.
> FROZEN CPU EMPLOYEES WERE NOT FIRED. THE ALL MADE A GROUP DECISION TO QUIT.
> We are at the moment shut down-- because we can not survive without our employees. The Staff That We Had were Very Hardworking honest and talented individuals. We have extended our hand to each of them-- none of which returned any phone calls.
> In saying that-- we need staff... if anyone is in need of a job... please contact me @ [email protected] ..
> Mark will be making a formal statement later this week possibly early next week.
> We apologize to all of our loyal customers that have been with us for years. We have operated this company for over a decade without any issues. We plan on picking up the pieces and moving on.. putting everything back in order.
> More updates to follow...


Source: Click

... but:
Quote:


> William Johnston‎FrozenCPU
> 
> 38 mins ·
> 
> Did anyone else notice that the woman who wrote the post a couple days ago (Natashia Johnson) has the exact same email as a woman who goes by another name at an "Escort Service"? http://www.eccie.net/showthread.php?p=1053436222


Source: Click


----------



## emsj86

Frozencpu is like jerry springer at this point too much drama


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Frozencpu is like jerry springer at this point too much drama


Yeah, a really strange drama.


----------



## fleetfeather

the enthusiast scene was in need of a bit of drama









looking forward to any instances of bored guys and girls who got burnt by FCPU and know their way around a PC... just being honest!


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> the enthusiast scene was in need of a bit of drama
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking forward to any instances of bored guys and girls who got burnt by FCPU and know their way around a PC... just being honest!


It would be better if they would come back, at least for us in Oz, because I dislike to have to order from all over the place.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not watercooling but...it has copper!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


saw this on Facebook

this one will be epic, you will polish all of these?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not watercooling but...it has copper!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clear coated/lacquered?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not watercooling but...it has copper!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> saw this on Facebook
> 
> this one will be epic, you will polish all of these?
Click to expand...

Yes,there is some acid etching to do and some forced patination to do but they will all end up mirror polished and lacquered.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know its not watercooling but...it has copper!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clear coated/lacquered?
Click to expand...

Only a pass with some 600 grit W+D,got a lot of work to do on these yet.


----------



## chartiet

My rig.


----------



## Bluemustang

Sweet....after a couple weeks waiting on PPCS backups, missing parts, defective parts and everything all my parts are finally here and i can start my bends.

And after a couple hours i finished my first bend, 5th tries the charm hehe (well first 3 tries were free hand, then i got the mandrels in the mail finally). Tougher than i thought









Nice to finally be getting somewhere with this build!


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Sweet....after a couple weeks waiting on PPCS backups, missing parts, defective parts and everything all my parts are finally here and i can start my bends.
> 
> And after a couple hours i finished my first bend, 5th tries the charm hehe (well first 3 tries were free hand, then i got the mandrels in the mail finally). Tougher than i thought


that's odd, Ive made almost 30 orders from them without ANY of what you discribe. the only time the screwed up, they sent me extra....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> My rig.


Very nice! What do you think of our Helix fans?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> that's odd, Ive made almost 30 orders from them without ANY of what you discribe. the only time the screwed up, they sent me extra....


Yeah, lets see. It's been backorders, missing parts and defective parts. Then wrong item (as the replacement for the defective part no less!). And their excuse for the wrong replacement? He openly admitted to selecting the wrong part cause he grabbed it quickly and thought it was the right thing (EK-FC Terminal and he grabbed the EK-FC Bridge). Showing without a doubt the lack of professionalism. I mean who doesnt check someones order to make sure the replacement part number matches? Oh well...

Water cooling sure has been an exercise in patience


----------



## emsj86

I have bad experiences with ppc and normal ones. When it goes well great when it goes bad there customer service can be very rude


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have bad experiences with ppc and normal ones. When it goes well great when it goes bad there customer service can be very rude


Indeed they can. One time i asked when i would get my backorder in (as first they said beginning of week, then end of week, then it was beginning of next week so i wrote them an email and was told mid week.....well now its end of that next week when i finally got it) and anyway the response i get to my question "when will my order be in"? I kid you not ....."When we get the part in. Should be mid week"


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Sweet....after a couple weeks waiting on PPCS backups, missing parts, defective parts and everything all my parts are finally here and i can start my bends.
> 
> And after a couple hours i finished my first bend, 5th tries the charm hehe (well first 3 tries were free hand, then i got the mandrels in the mail finally). Tougher than i thought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to finally be getting somewhere with this build!


Yeah I just received and order from them with missing parts and the wrong sleeve color on my fans







( they said they would send out the right sleeving and heatshrink so I could do it myself along with the missing 24 pin







( not to happy.

Builds comming together though and I got my psu cover /pump cover wrapped in carbon fiber!!







Now I just need to drill a hole for the tube comming from the res to the pump and install the green psu cover even though it's the wrong color green :*( makes the psu look like a shiny black though when it's installed so I guess it's worth a shot. Now just waiting on a custom 24 pin, flow meter and my new hw labs sr2 rad which will be carbon fiber wrapped and got an a c Ryan uv green striped radgrill to install, it's finnally comming together!


----------



## emsj86

Not to lay I to them because I will still order from them but maybe I got a bad egg there. Who told me I must live in a bad area and I shouldn't be shipping to an area that may be lost/stolen ( that was a result of an order that turned out never was shipped to me) I did get it but took forever


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not to lay I to them because I will still order from them but maybe I got a bad egg there. Who told me I must live in a bad area and I shouldn't be shipping to an area that may be lost/stolen ( that was a result of an order that turned out never was shipped to me) I did get it but took forever


Why haven't you done a rigbuilder for your Siggy Yet.

Im kinda spastic sometimes.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Got a few goodies to play with and keep me busy for a while:


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got a few goodies to play with and keep me busy for a while:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well isn't that a cute little guy


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

I didn't know they even sold those xspc bay res with two pumps!


----------



## VSG

New additions, and those single bay ones are actually glass and not plexi. Kinda ironic given the budget nature of the pumps but it does look really good.

Edit: I was mistaken about the reservoir being glass, it is acrylic after all. But very good clear acrylic.


----------



## DarthBaggins

running smoothly and awaiting my BitsPower Gpu block







then I'll add in the Mayhems Mint Green Pastel


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> It would be better if they would come back, at least for us in Oz, because I dislike to have to order from all over the place.


Quote:


> Peter Maryan
> 
> Today at 11:01
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> I drove by today and there were four cars in the lot. Mark was in the building and people were picking up. They claimed they are working to get back on schedule. Time will tell.


Source: Click


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> running smoothly and awaiting my BitsPower Gpu block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I'll add in the Mayhems Mint Green


Nice!! Loving the green how did you get that effect?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New additions, and those single bay ones are actually glass and not plexi. Kinda ironic given the budget nature of the pumps but it does look really good.


Hmm that must be BRANDNEW. because I got one about a month ago and it's deffinatly not glass!


----------



## DarthBaggins

The green is Montana Gold Acrylic spray paint: Poison Light and another is one they have called Spider Black and I used the Spyder silver on the Rad


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> The green is Montana Gold Acrylic spray paint: Poison Light and another is one they have called Spider Black and I used the Spyder silver on the Rad


That's cool so it just gives it that effect on its own?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah the Spider line uses a special tip that works w/ that paint


----------



## BazG

Trying me best to get something happening with my Loving Case the Mercury S8



Come check it out here *Shockwave*


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What do you think of our Helix fans?


The price is definitely right; I haven't done any true testing but they work fine for me 'in the field'. I only have two on a 240 though.

I heard the 140 Helix was subpar compared to the 120s perf, is that true?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got a few goodies to play with and keep me busy for a while:
> ]


that supremacy MX is interesting. what gap does it fill??

I see some potential for modding if thats black piece can be lazer cut with emblems


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> that supremacy MX is interesting. what gap does it fill??
> 
> I see some potential for modding if thats black piece can be lazer cut with emblems


It replaces the Supreme LTX as the budget block from EK. The top piece is pretty thin and is not just a cover, it covers the internals completely. I would say cutting into it is not a great idea, but having something on it would be completely ok.


----------



## Gabrielzm

I am in the process of converting my GTs AP15 to black and white:



this is the first prototype so to speak


----------



## VSG

Looks great!


----------



## wermad

Pretty









Working on pics...Snef gave me hope


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks great!


I wonder what do you do with all the "toy's" after you have tested/reviewed them?

Also after ketchuping the blocks and installing them they fit great!


Spoiler: Some pics!









after running some firestrike at 1550 core and 7900mem max temps are 49c with vrm's at 68c pretty good i suppose with no fans over the VRM's


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Source: Click


Quote:


> Site down until further notice
> 
> February 21, 2015
> 
> FrozenCPU.com will not be taking new orders or processing pending orders for at least the next 30 days. We currently are attempting to hire new staff to get things moving again. In the meantime we will attempt to refund orders paid via credit card. Those that paid with Paypal and Bitcoin will need to be patient as we work out other ways to refund your money. We apologize for this inconvenience. - Mark Friga Jr.


Source: Click


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol I like the update about the mysterious baby mama and her escort service ad xD

this is better than TV

in all seriousness though, I don't think I could support a company whose owner was able to do that to a one off mnpc tech bench

just any PC really, especially knowing the work that goes into all this. It's just utterly appalling.
I hate how there are people that handle these things and have absolutely 0 respect for what they are.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lol I like the update about the mysterious baby mama and her escort service ad xD
> 
> this is better than TV
> 
> in all seriousness though, I don't think I could support a company whose owner was able to do that to a one off mnpc tech bench
> 
> just any PC really, especially knowing the work that goes into all this. It's just utterly appalling.
> I hate how there are people that handle these things and have absolutely 0 respect for what they are.


I still hope that they come back out of this, because it was still the best one-stop-shop for LCS's-Stuff.


----------



## p5ych00n5

New Loop


----------



## fleetfeather

@geggeg i need a noise review of those XSPC X2O combos asap


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> I wonder what do you do with all the "toy's" after you have tested/reviewed them?
> 
> Also after ketchuping the blocks and installing them they fit great!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Some pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after running some firestrike at 1550 core and 7900mem max temps are 49c with vrm's at 68c pretty good i suppose with no fans over the VRM's


I am liking those universal blocks more and more I changed out the TIM the other day pretty simple job took about an hour dropped my temp 15°C


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I am liking those universal blocks more and more I changed out the TIM the other day pretty simple job took about an hour dropped my temp 15°C


Lulz, sooo you removed the cards from the blocks and lost 42f? AMAZING!


----------



## wermad

Might be a leak test? strange pic


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Very nice! What do you think of our Helix fans?


Thanks!! I like them, Im not very picky at all but they work fine in lieu of the AP-15's. In my opinion, they are great bang for buck.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am in the process of converting my GTs AP15 to black and white:
> 
> this is the first prototype so to speak


The emoticon was really not needed; those look great. I like how they are the opposite of the Helix, color-wise, too.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> The emoticon was really not needed; those look great. I like how they are the opposite of the Helix, color-wise, too.


thks mate. Was (still am) unsure about the whole process. I am also lacking the tools to put the little bugger of a ring back to hold the fans. But the full batch of 11 more should be easier since I learn from my mistakes on this one.


----------



## USMC Modder

So I just had an issue with PPCs site adding two Parvum S2.0 cases to my order when I only clicked one. Rushing through the order I didn't catch it until after I submitted it. I didn't have any issues with them though and they had the refund back to me in about 10 minutes after talking to them. So I guess it's really hit or miss with them. Just like any customer service really though. Still don't like the new site they have up though. It also has a tendency to run really slow when you are trying to pull up your cart. I'm hoping that they don't mess up anything in my order though because I have a lot of stuff coming from them and I'd really hate to have to deal with that.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am in the process of converting my GTs AP15 to black and white:
> 
> this is the first prototype so to speak


Looks great, the finish seems pretty smooth.

And the frame reminds me of vanilla ice cream for some reason.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> I wonder what do you do with all the "toy's" after you have tested/reviewed them?


So far I've still kept everything but I will start putting up a few things on sale soon like fans and so on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> @geggeg i need a noise review of those XSPC X2O combos asap


Sure, but I won't be able to put up reviews here on OCN anymore thanks to the rules on items I didn't pay for.


----------



## Domiro

First loop completely done with copper tubing and all. Aaaand faulty mobo, pcie slots not working.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> First loop completely done with copper tubing and all. Aaaand faulty mobo, pcie slots not working.


Did it work when you tested it out of the case? Please tell me you didn't make the mistake of just putting everything in without testing first?


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Did it work when you tested it out of the case? Please tell me you didn't make the mistake of just putting everything in without testing first?


Eveything had been tested barring the mobo. Doesn't work on air either.

RMA it and use my backup for now.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Eveything had been tested barring the mobo. Doesn't work on air either.
> 
> RMA it and use my backup for now.


Ah that sucks! Go figure it would be the one thing you didn't test, sod's law, I've never had a DOA product but I always test everything on the motherboard box before building just in case because... cba with that!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Mark Friga just posted in the FCPU News section for their official statement. If it hasn't been already linked here: http://www.frozencpu.com/news.html

Quote:


> Site down until further notice
> February 21, 2015
> FrozenCPU.com will not be taking new orders or processing pending orders for at least the next 30 days. We currently are attempting to hire new staff to get things moving again. We apologize for this inconvenience. - Mark Friga Jr.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Has anyone used one of these XSPC Single bay pump/res units?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/x2o-420-single-bayres-pump.html#Details

I'm downsizing to an MATX case and I don't think I can fit my Monsoon D5 duel bay res


----------



## newls1

getting mostly done.... thanks for all the assistance from y'all, i appreciated it.

EK XTC 420
D5
Supremacy EVO with 2011-v3 Insert and plate upgrade
Dual Bay Res

5820K @ 4.55GHz / 4.050GHz Cache
Powercolor PCS+ R9 290's in Crossfire
Raid 0 setup with 2 x120gb Intel 530's

Built this loop in a VERY OLD case that is my favorite case i've ever bought, so its been mod'ed just a tad.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newls1*
> 
> getting mostly done.... thanks for all the assistance from y'all, i appreciated it.
> 
> EK XTC 420
> D5
> Supremacy EVO with 2011-v3 Insert and plate upgrade
> Dual Bay Res
> 
> 5820K @ 4.55GHz / 4.050GHz Cache
> Powercolor PCS+ R9 290's in Crossfire
> Raid 0 setup with 2 x120gb Intel 530's
> 
> Built this loop in a VERY OLD case that is my favorite case i've ever bought, so its been mod'ed just a tad.






You attached the external Rad like I wanted to do it at the beginning with my last build.


----------



## newls1

ive always mounted my rads up top for some reason, i just like it


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Lulz, sooo you removed the cards from the blocks and lost 42f? AMAZING!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Might be a leak test? strange pic


Just showing that I can remove my cards and replace TIM, without disassembling my loop I could possibly even put new cards in if the GPU dies are in a similar spot. just spreading some ideas for those on a budget.
Suffering from TIM bleed out I thought I had degraded my cards I was struggling to get to 1300Mhz now thrashing them @ 1424Mhz not bad for some old GTX770s see how long they last. good excuse to upgrade to the next r9-390s
Got to get every last drop of performance now these cards are not really cutting the mustard.
Still if I had money to burn I would have got full cover blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So far I've still kept everything but I will start putting up a few things on sale soon like fans and so on.
> Sure, but I won't be able to put up reviews here on OCN anymore thanks to the rules on items I didn't pay for.


That's a shame you can't review them, I was thinking that those bay combos were a little new on the market as I had never seen them.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Has anyone used one of these XSPC Single bay pump/res units?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/x2o-420-single-bayres-pump.html#Details
> 
> I'm downsizing to an MATX case and I don't think I can fit my Monsoon D5 duel bay res


I just got one of it yesterday and will soon do a review of it. Look for the review to come up on other forums, the XSPC website, that very link on Performance PCs and on my own website in about a week or two.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> That's a shame you can't review them, I was thinking that those bay combos were a little new on the market as I had never seen them.


I can review them, just not here. See above


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I just got one of it yesterday and will soon do a review of it. Look for the review to come up on other forums, the XSPC website, that very link on Performance PCs and on my own website in about a week or two.


Cool thanks!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Hmm that must be BRANDNEW. because I got one about a month ago and it's deffinatly not glass!


Yeah I was mistaken about it- it is clear acrylic, and fooled me enough to ignore the telltale signs of the acrylic bonding and lack of compressions/O-rings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Cool thanks!


No worries, I love testing things as it is


----------



## feznz

That will be awesome







what is the name of your site?
I just double checked I see you corrected the glass I was amazed that it possibly could have been glass
I have always wanted to see those Dual bay res with rubber mount dampeners like they had with their original acrylic dual bay res maybe they will re-implement them in the future


----------



## Tiger Leahu

Here ya go:
Hydro Series H60 High Performance Liquid Cooling System 120MM Radiator & Fan (Pulling)
and a Enermax TB Silence UCTB14 140mm (pushing)


----------



## Razroid

I AM BACK!

After getting the 90d fittings and extenders, the last bend was simple









So now, the leak test and the bleeding, I wonder if I can do this with just distilled water?

Also, in the long term, can I just run plain distilled with no biocide/killcoil? These are quite difficult to come by in my country :/


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I AM BACK!
> 
> After getting the 90d fittings and extenders, the last bend was simple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, the leak test and the bleeding, I wonder if I can do this with just distilled water?
> 
> Also, in the long term, can I just run plain distilled with no biocide/killcoil? These are quite difficult to come by in my country :/


Nope algae will grow quite easily. Just a small plain .999 silver strip will be fine. Or some automotive coolant. in about a 10:1 mixture.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Nope algae will grow quite easily. Just a small plain .999 silver strip will be fine. Or some automotive coolant. in about a 10:1 mixture.


Automotive coolants don't generally have biocide, just anticorrosive agents.


----------



## dslives

Hi.

First loop!

EK Supremacy EVO Acetal + Nickel cooling Intel i7-4790k (4.5Ghz all cores)

2x EK R9-290X FC blocks (slightly modified) to cool 2x MSI Radeon R9 290X 4G GAMING (1080Mhz GPU, 1300Mhz Mem Clock)

Loop cooled by an EK Coolstream PE 360 and an EK Coolstream XTC 280.

You can see the rest!





Thoughts?


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dslives*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> First loop!
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO Acetal + Nickel cooling Intel i7-4790k (4.5Ghz all cores)
> 
> 2x EK R9-290X FC blocks (slightly modified) to cool 2x MSI Radeon R9 290X 4G GAMING (1080Mhz GPU, 1300Mhz Mem Clock)
> 
> Loop cooled by an EK Coolstream PE 360 and an EK Coolstream XTC 280.
> 
> You can see the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


Very nice but you could re-do your loop so it doesn't look so messy. But that's just my opinion







Btw take off those protective stickers on EK logo


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dslives*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> First loop!
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO Acetal + Nickel cooling Intel i7-4790k (4.5Ghz all cores)
> 
> 2x EK R9-290X FC blocks (slightly modified) to cool 2x MSI Radeon R9 290X 4G GAMING (1080Mhz GPU, 1300Mhz Mem Clock)
> 
> Loop cooled by an EK Coolstream PE 360 and an EK Coolstream XTC 280.
> 
> You can see the rest!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


Nice work


----------



## dslives

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dslives*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> First loop!
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO Acetal + Nickel cooling Intel i7-4790k (4.5Ghz all cores)
> 
> 2x EK R9-290X FC blocks (slightly modified) to cool 2x MSI Radeon R9 290X 4G GAMING (1080Mhz GPU, 1300Mhz Mem Clock)
> 
> Loop cooled by an EK Coolstream PE 360 and an EK Coolstream XTC 280.
> 
> You can see the rest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice but you could re-do your loop so it doesn't look so messy. But that's just my opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw take off those protective stickers on EK logo
Click to expand...

Those protective stickers and the blue RAM have to go, they are next on the agenda. Less sure what to do with the loop. Small space, I thought it was kinda neat, but that's just me


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dslives*
> 
> Those protective stickers and the blue RAM have to go, they are next on the agenda. Less sure what to do with the loop. Small space, I thought it was kinda neat, but that's just me


Don't get me wrong, this rig is awesome! Like I told you this was just my opinion. Here is my rig. I know I have more space but still, you get the idea about loop.


----------



## dslives

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dslives*
> 
> Those protective stickers and the blue RAM have to go, they are next on the agenda. Less sure what to do with the loop. Small space, I thought it was kinda neat, but that's just me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong, this rig is awesome! Like I told you this was just my opinion. Here is my rig. I know I have more space but still, you get the idea about loop.
Click to expand...

This is very neat. Good job! Liking the yellow.

Also, great taste in PSU


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Nope algae will grow quite easily. Just a small plain .999 silver strip will be fine. Or some automotive coolant. in about a 10:1 mixture.


I've read somewhere that the silver reacts with copper?


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dslives*
> 
> This is very neat. Good job! Liking the yellow.
> 
> Also, great taste in PSU


Thank You sir! I really like that psu. Time to make psu cover and order custom sleeved cables


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I've read somewhere that the silver reacts with copper?


You would be thinking of nickel and even that is a very very small chance. I've been running silver coil in my loops with both copper and nickle blocks and I not noticed any issues.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> You would be thinking of nickel and even that is a very very small chance. I've been running silver coil in my loops with both copper and nickle blocks and I not noticed any issues.


Ah yes, I read up on the nickel thing, I run all EK blocks :/


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Ah yes, I read up on the nickel thing, I run all EK blocks :/


The EK nickel issue was sorted out years ago, I highly doubt you'll have issues.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> The EK nickel issue was sorted out years ago, I highly doubt you'll have issues.


It's still quite difficult to find a killcoil here :/

What about biocide?


----------



## pc-illiterate

aquarium algae killer.


----------



## Benjiw

PT nuke will do you good.


----------



## Razroid

Yeah I was thinking of something that is not pc watercooling oriented but something for aquariums or for plants, they probably will be cheaper :3

It's impossible to find PT Nuke here too T.T


----------



## Freaxy

Maybe try an aquarium shop and ask for Copper Sulfate based biocide. It's basically what PT nuke is.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Maybe try an aquarium shop and ask for Copper Sulfate based biocide. It's basically what PT nuke is.


Yeah I'm planning on that









I think it comes in a huge bottle though, I might bottle em and give them out locally since it's next to impossible to find biocide here


----------



## pc-illiterate

this is what i use. i had no algae in a year.
http://www.tetra-fish.com/Products/aquarium-water-care-maintenance/aquarium-water-problems-treatments-for-aquariums/algaecontrol-remove-aquarium-algae-control-water-is-green.aspx


----------



## Ceadderman

I run NO dyes/additives in my loops using only distilled and don't have issues with corrosion/algae. Not unless I do something stoopid like draining and letting water sit in my blocks. Which I have done.























I have Copper/Nickel and now Silver due to my choice of fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I run NO dyes/additives in my loops using only distilled and don't have issues with corrosion/algae. Not unless I do something stoopid like draining and letting water sit in my blocks. Which I have done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have Copper/Nickel and now Silver due to my choice of fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So it's fine for me to run just distilled?

I'll need some time to go look around for biocide and I can't wait to power on my rig


----------



## p5ych00n5

Not for too long, for a few days at most. Oh and keep out of direct sunlight and you should be golden


----------



## aerotracks

I've been on just distilled for over a year without issues, never got to adding the kill coil since my loop has always been in some kind of intermittent state. Algae doesn't grow overnight it seems, at least not in my system.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Not for too long, for a few days at most. Oh and keep out of direct sunlight and you should be golden


Luckily the Cosmos II has no windows


----------



## DarthBaggins

This M8 followed me home today, fiance said we could keep him lol. . the R.C70 is dwarfed by it. .


----------



## wermad

Make sure it has had its shots! Otherwise, one bite, and you.re addicted to wc....


----------



## charliebrown

ok so im ordering stuff for my 900d build but wanted to know if my swiftech d5 can handle 480,360.240 rads or should i run dual loops


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> ok so im ordering stuff for my 900d build but wanted to know if my swiftech d5 can handle 480,360.240 rads or should i run dual loops


My vario D5 is pushing through three 480s, you should be fine


----------



## charliebrown

good ill use that money elsewhere thanks


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> ok so im ordering stuff for my 900d build but wanted to know if my swiftech d5 can handle 480,360.240 rads or should i run dual loops
> 
> 
> 
> My vario D5 is pushing through three 480s, you should be fine
Click to expand...

What happened to the MCP35X wermad?


----------



## 8472

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My vario D5 is pushing through three 480s, you should be fine


Which setting is your pump on? I was planning on using 3 360 rads.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> What happened to the MCP35X wermad?


Sold it last summer. Took a break and the started up again this past fall. Been running the D5 for a few months now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8472*
> 
> Which setting is your pump on? I was planning on using 3 360 rads.


set to 5 since day one


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> What happened to the MCP35X wermad?
> 
> 
> 
> Sold it last summer. Took a break and the started up again this past fall. Been running the D5 for a few months now.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *8472*
> 
> Which setting is your pump on? I was planning on using 3 360 rads.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> set to 5 since day one
Click to expand...

Couldn't resist the addiction?


----------



## 8472

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> set to 5 since day one


Okay. I'm hoping I can have mine at no higher than 3. Lol.


----------



## H2lium

Hello everyone,

I very rarely post, but this is my second attempt at custom full loop watercooling, so here are a few pictures.

Graphic card will soon be replaced by a SLI of GTX 970 G1 Gaming









Rad power is 560 + 120 hidden in the 5.25 bays.

Kinda happy with the result :








What do you think?
Sorry these are only phone pictures and I have no camera skills whatsoever









Thx for your advices and comments

Greetings from France


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Everything matches well enough those DS fans sort of make it look like you have spilled coolant all over the bottom of the case.


----------



## fleetfeather

i bet that fan on the left is generating some sick airflow


----------



## H2lium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> i bet that fan on the left is generating some sick airflow


well i had no other place to put the hard drives so...


----------



## concept73

Suppose i'd better join the party late than never









This is my current pc that is going to be broken this week to start a revamp/new project









Compact splash #89
I7 2600k
Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum c9 1886Mhz
Evga 780
Silverstone 450w modular SFX with all cables made/braided by me.
Samsung Evo 250GB
Ek supremacy block
Ek 780ti gpu block
Ek fittings
Ek pump/res combo
Ek PE rads
Ek tubing.
Win 7 Pro

Was featured in Custom pc in the "Readers drive" in August 2014


----------



## guitarhero23

Nice and small!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> What happened to the MCP35X wermad?




I am going to take over the Responsibility of Running the Mcp35x

Each Will Run through a 480 and 240 plus an Ek Supremacy. The other Loop will be 2 x 980 Waterblocks, and the 480 and 240


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I very rarely post, but this is my second attempt at custom full loop watercooling, so here are a few pictures.
> 
> What do you think?
> Sorry these are only phone pictures and I have no camera skills whatsoever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for your advices and comments
> 
> Greetings from France


Greetings. I think you did a really nice job especially for someone who is still technically a newbie!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Couldn't resist the addiction?


Lol, nope. Chronic addict








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8472*
> 
> Okay. I'm hoping I can have mine at no higher than 3. Lol.


I believe that's the lowest for quiet performance on a medium to large loop. #4 is the best compromise (since its the stock setting on the fixed "B" models). I can hear mine but its not terribly loud, even though i have the door panel off and the stock 295x2 cooler.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Couldn't resist the addiction?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, nope. Chronic addict
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *8472*
> 
> Okay. I'm hoping I can have mine at no higher than 3. Lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I believe that's the lowest for quiet performance on a medium to large loop. #4 is the best compromise (since its the stock setting on the fixed "B" models). *I can hear mine but its not terribly loud*, even though i have the door panel off and the stock 295x2 cooler.
Click to expand...

What top do you have and is it isolated in any way?

You can try 'leveling' the tension on the pump retainer on the top,sometimes if is not bang on or screwed down too tight then you can get noise.

Strange to see such a valiant defender of the DDC running D5's.......Welcome to the Darkside,I dont have cookies tho.......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What top do you have and is it isolated in any way?
> 
> You can try 'leveling' the tension on the pump retainer on the top,sometimes if is not bang on or screwed down too tight then you can get noise.
> 
> Strange to see such a valiant defender of the DDC running D5's.......Welcome to the Darkside,I dont have cookies tho.......


Its a low whirl, almost drone. I have it attached to a UN-Design 120mm bracket w/ plastic nylon washers (double). Which is then attached to the acrylic and to the mb panel of the 900D. I removed the odd cage so there might some amplification in the noise. Its not bad and i would compare it to my old ddc which sat right next to me in a closed case.

It came w/ an αcool top. Right now the door panel is open to let the stock 295x2 rad do its business. Once its sealed, you won't hear much from it unless you make the room quiet and concentrate. With the rain and kiddies running and screaming, you can't hear it.

I like the DDC due to their mighty brute strength and they're compact, but they do have short comings. I had the opportunity to buy the D5 w/ top (wanted a BP dress up kit tbh) and its been solid since. Runs like a champ and never hesitates to start. I have enough room to spare right now and I love parts that you can plug in and don't have to worry about them. I have enough headaches sorting the mb and cpu right now.

No cookies, I say false advertisement! Quickly, someone get me the # to the GTX 970 3.5gb plaintiff's blood-suc...I mean lawyers!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Couldn't resist the addiction?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, nope. *Chronic* addict
Click to expand...

Well glad to see that you've addressed that issue and gotten back to Water Cooling werm.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its a low whirl, almost drone. I have it attached to a UN-Design 120mm bracket w/ plastic nylon washers (double). Which is then attached to the acrylic and to the mb panel of the 900D. I removed the odd cage so there might some amplification in the noise. Its not bad and i would compare it to my old ddc which sat right next to me in a closed case.
> 
> It came w/ an αcool top. Right now the door panel is open to let the stock 295x2 rad do its business. Once its sealed, you won't hear much from it unless you make the room quiet and concentrate. With the rain and kiddies running and screaming, you can't hear it.
> 
> I like the DDC due to their mighty brute strength and they're compact, but they do have short comings. I had the opportunity to buy the D5 w/ top (wanted a BP dress up kit tbh) and its been solid since. Runs like a champ and never hesitates to start. I have enough room to spare right now and I love parts that you can plug in and don't have to worry about them. I have enough headaches sorting the mb and cpu right now.
> 
> No cookies, I say false advertisement! Quickly, someone get me the # to the GTX 970 3.5gb plaintiff's blood-suc...I mean lawyers!!!!


Sorry I ate all the cookies, lol


----------



## Razroid

So I decided to fill my loop for a leak test.. at 3am..



NOOOOOO











Anyone knows if EK will send me a new one for free?









I never opened the block before, maybe the previous owner did


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> So I decided to fill my loop for a leak test.. at 3am..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOOOOOO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone knows if EK will send me a new one for free?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never opened the block before, maybe the previous owner did


i believe the o rings are available to be sold separately if EK doesn't send you one.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> So I decided to fill my loop for a leak test.. at 3am..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOOOOOO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone knows if EK will send me a new one for free?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never opened the block before, maybe the previous owner did


Not second hand. FrozenCPU was the best place to get EK parts so I would contact EK support and I'm sure they will sell you one for a couple bucks


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i believe the o rings are available to be sold separately if EK doesn't send you one.


Where can I contact them about this free O ring?









They sell it here

It says:

* This product is not available in the requested quantity. 1 of the items will be backordered. To get availability date please contact our support.

when I try to order a set


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Where can I contact them about this free O ring?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They sell it here
> 
> It says:
> 
> * This product is not available in the requested quantity. 1 of the items will be backordered. To get availability date please contact our support.
> 
> when I try to order a set


Sucks HAAAAARD bro...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Where can I contact them about this free O ring?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They sell it here
> 
> It says:
> 
> * This product is not available in the requested quantity. 1 of the items will be backordered. To get availability date please contact our support.
> 
> when I try to order a set


Go to the EK owners forum and ask @akira749 for help.

Here linky linky link.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> So I decided to fill my loop for a leak test.. at 3am..
> 
> 
> 
> NOOOOOO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone knows if EK will send me a new one for free?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never opened the block before, maybe the previous owner did


Just contact the manufacturer in the official page, I had a similar problem with my RL and they sent me for free a new screws kit from Slovenia to my country. Best support ever...


----------



## Rahldrac

What do you call those plastic pieces you put on for example the 24 pin cable to make it line up when you have individually sleeved cables?


----------



## VSG

Cable combs?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> What do you call those plastic pieces you put on for example the 24 pin cable to make it line up when you have individually sleeved cables?


cable combs.


----------



## Razroid

Cable Combs!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Cable Combs in case you didn't catch it, lol

Lutro's Cable Combs

And More Combs!!


----------



## Razroid

I'm seriously considering just super-glueing the O ring together ._.


----------



## KuuFA

Put things together a few days ago and it Looks great!



need to get my DSLR out when the weather is better


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I'm seriously considering just super-glueing the O ring together ._.


I wouldn't recommend doing that... .-.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I wouldn't recommend doing that... .-.


Kinda just did that .___________.

does not look like it's leaking anymore when I fill it with water and seal the 2 ports off ._.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Kinda just did that .___________.
> 
> does not look like it's leaking anymore when I fill it with water and seal the 2 ports off ._.


I would still get a new oring tho, even if it ends up working.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Cable Combs in case you didn't catch it, lol
> 
> Lutro's Cable Combs
> 
> And More Combs!!


Always out of stock. I get them from Ensourced.net. They are slightly fragile though. Have to be gentle.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I would still get a new oring tho, even if it ends up working.


I'll try looking around for one T.T
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Always out of stock. I get them from Ensourced.net. They are slightly fragile though. Have to be gentle.


Yeah I broke one of my 24 pins, loctite fixed it







(along with my O-Ring)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Always out of stock. I get them from Ensourced.net. They are slightly fragile though. Have to be gentle.


Could always shoot Lutro a pm on here


----------



## Rahldrac

Thanks guys! Now starts the job of finding them in EU!


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Thanks guys! Now starts the job of finding them in EU!


E22


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> E22


I ordered some rad screws and some braid from from e22 three weeks ago, didn't arrive have had no response the two times i've tried to contact.

It was only a £15 order thankfully.


----------



## Rahldrac

Hmmm, I can't find it anywhere else, so I guess I will gamble some money. Thanks!

Edit: I see overclockers UK have some too


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Kinda just did that .___________.
> 
> does not look like it's leaking anymore when I fill it with water and seal the 2 ports off ._.


I am sure you could get one here just try measure the o ring as it was a perfect circle and measure the inside diameter then measure the diameter of the o ring
at a guess you should have something like for example 60mm x 2mm nitrile rubber will do the job

http://www.monotaro.sg/g/00184304/


----------



## H2lium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Put things together a few days ago and it Looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> need to get my DSLR out when the weather is better


hey







nice build.

Quick question for you.

My eagle eye detects that you have M5E motherboard. I see you connected second GPU card on the 4th PCIe slot (red one) instead of the one recommended in user manual for SLI which is 3rd one (black one).

Is it OK to do as you or it's more recommanded to do as the manual says?

Do you lose the x8/x8 when doing like you?

Thanks


----------



## wermad

8x 3.0 is the equivalent of 16x 2.0. Nvidia at minimum runs at 8x 2.0 (amd allows 4x 3.0).


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I am sure you could get one here just try measure the o ring as it was a perfect circle and measure the inside diameter then measure the diameter of the o ring
> at a guess you should have something like for example 60mm x 2mm nitrile rubber will do the job
> 
> http://www.monotaro.sg/g/00184304/


I have the size, it's 54x2mm, found some online, I'm just wondering if the materials used will pose any problems.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I have the size, it's 54x2mm, found some online, I'm just wondering if the materials used will pose any problems.


Nitrile is cheap and is the most likely original oring material

here's a list
http://www.manuf-rubber.com/pdf/Material-Guide.pdf


----------



## 8472

I added a 140 to my 360 and my hottest core's temps dropped by "only" 5c. My next step is to run 3 360's. As soon as I get my caselabs Magnum case.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I have the size, it's 54x2mm, found some online, I'm just wondering if the materials used will pose any problems.


McMaster-Carr has all kinds of o-rings of various sizes. They even have o-ring cord stock if you want/need to make your own size. They do have the 54mm x 2mm that you mentioned though.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=w1ujr5


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> McMaster-Carr has all kinds of o-rings of various sizes. They even have o-ring cord stock if you want/need to make your own size. They do have the 54mm x 2mm that you mentioned though.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=w1ujr5


Is such a good store. However, they don´t ship to every country. For me for example is a no option and there is ton of stuff I would get from them if I could... I have a mind to start a custom acrylic reservoir and mcmaster would be a good source for the materials...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Is such a good store. However, they don´t ship to every country. For me for example is a no option and there is ton of stuff I would get from them if I could...


That's somewhat disheartening. I love that store. We order from them at work at least once a week. We even get their massive catalog, which we refer to as the Bible, and leave it in the bathroom as reading material.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That's somewhat disheartening. I love that store. We order from them at work at least once a week. We even get their massive catalog, which we refer to as the Bible, and leave it in the bathroom as reading material.


Lol I can see that for sure. Alas for me is a no option. I would be "converted" to that catalog pretty quick


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Kinda just did that .___________.
> 
> does not look like it's leaking anymore when I fill it with water and seal the 2 ports off ._.


Will you just PM Akira *(THE EK REP)* and ask for a replacement, also there is no pressure there so as soon as you connect a pump it might take a leak.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> hey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice build.
> 
> Quick question for you.
> 
> My eagle eye detects that you have M5E motherboard. I see you connected second GPU card on the 4th PCIe slot (red one) instead of the one recommended in user manual for SLI which is 3rd one (black one).
> 
> Is it OK to do as you or it's more recommanded to do as the manual says?
> 
> Do you lose the x8/x8 when doing like you?
> 
> Thanks


I get 8x/8x which wermad said is also true. It hasnt effected me so i am going to say it wont affect you.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I'm seriously considering just super-glueing the O ring together ._.


That is what I did on my 780 block.









Even reopened it 6-7 more times after that and it is still holding.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks, not sure this has been linked here before but I think is quite relevant for us. @fast_fate has done an incredible job of comparing current rads offers so I will leave a link to that info here for reference:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1542405/extreme-rigs-radiator-review-round-up-2015-group-a

and the original reviews with @stren comments on push/pull that hit the head of the nail:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/

edit - I already +rep him since that is just a nice way to say "thank you" for all that work that benefits all the Water cooling community.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks, nut sure this has been linked here before but I think is quite relevant for us. @fast_fate has done an incredible job of comparing current rads offers so I will leave a link to that info here for reference:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542405/extreme-rigs-radiator-review-round-up-2015-group-a
> 
> and the original reviews with @stren comments on push/pull that hit the head of the nail:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/
> 
> edit - I already +rep him since that is just a nice way to say "thank you" for all that work that benefits all the Water cooling community.


Hmmmm,Kukri's are not a like for like match with GT's.....I would prefer a comparative test on the same equipment personally.
That said,its still a resource,hopefully there will be a follow up with direct comparison.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hmmmm,Kukri's are not a like for like match with GT's.....I would prefer a comparative test on the same equipment personally.
> That said,its still a resource,hopefully there will be a follow up with direct comparison.


he has scheduled push and also pull in the near future. other rads to test first.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hmmmm,Kukri's are not a like for like match with GT's.....I would prefer a comparative test on the same equipment personally.
> That said,its still a resource,hopefully there will be a follow up with direct comparison.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> he has scheduled push and also pull in the near future. other rads to test first.


Will be push only for the single fans test - not both.
and only at 1.0 gpm (not all 3 flow rates)
all 3 fan speeds will we done though








Just finished the comparisons tests between push only and pull only on a sample rad at each fan speed.
Push only averaged 5% better performance than pull only at the the three fan speeds.
So going to run with push only for the follow up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hmmmm,Kukri's are not a like for like match with GT's.....I would prefer a comparative test on the same equipment personally.
> That said,its still a resource,hopefully there will be a follow up with direct comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> he has scheduled push and also pull in the near future. other rads to test first.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Will be push only for the single fans test - not both.
> and only at 1.0 gpm (not all 3 flow rates)
> all 3 fan speeds will we done though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished the comparisons tests between push only and pull only on a sample rad at each fan speed.
> Push only averaged 5% better performance than pull only at the the three fan speeds.
> So going to run with push only for the follow up.
Click to expand...


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks, nut sure this has been linked here before but I think is quite relevant for us. @fast_fate has done an incredible job of comparing current rads offers so I will leave a link to that info here for reference:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542405/extreme-rigs-radiator-review-round-up-2015-group-a
> 
> and the original reviews with @stren comments on push/pull that hit the head of the nail:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/
> 
> edit - I already +rep him since that is just a nice way to say "thank you" for all that work that benefits all the Water cooling community.


Thanks for posting, this is great info.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Test Loop?




TCO

It was running stock with the 240mm Rad at ambient of 50F. After running windows and downloading all updates it was @ 30C









Good thing I got some bigger radiators eh?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test Loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> It was running stock with the 240mm Rad at *ambient of 50F*. After running windows and downloading all updates it was @ 30C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing I got some bigger radiators eh?


50F ambient, IN your house? Dear god man, soon you'll be able to build a snowman. Congrats on the boot, BTW. It's a very satisfying feeling seeing all your hard work finally pay off


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks, nut sure this has been linked here before but I think is quite relevant for us. @fast_fate has done an incredible job of comparing current rads offers so I will leave a link to that info here for reference:


Wow I can't believe the EX360 performed so poorly com[pared to the others&#8230;


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> 50F ambient, IN your house? Dear god man, soon you'll be able to build a snowman. Congrats on the boot, BTW. *It's a very satisfying feeling seeing all your hard work finally pay off*


Yea I don't use the heater to keep the Bills down







and it's great to use the free temps (Ambient) to see differences to Delta with loops.

And thank You!

I was more than excited when I saw the power buttons light up.









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hmmmm,Kukri's are not a like for like match with GT's.....I would prefer a comparative test on the same equipment personally.
> That said,its still a resource,hopefully there will be a follow up with direct comparison.


true not the same fan. As Martin commented on the discussion thread He wanted an average fan at that time and what fast did on the other hand is use one of the best fans around (if not the best) for rad job. I am looking forward for the push results fast and once again thank you mate for all the work you did







I wish you could get your hands on the Aquacomputer rads (both the AMS and the radical ones).


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea I don't use the heater to keep the Bills down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it's great to use the free temps (Ambient) to see differences to Delta with loops.
> 
> And thank You!
> 
> I was more than excited when I saw the power buttons light up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Keep the bills down so you can spend the savings on the rig lol when I didn't have to pay utilities I used to fold 24/7 and I could close the vents in my room and use the folding rig as a space heater. Actually worked pretty well lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Keep the bills down so you can spend the savings on the rig lol when I didn't have to pay utilities I used to fold 24/7 and I could close the vents in my room and use the folding rig as a space heater. Actually worked pretty well lol


The winter hasn't been that bad









Just gota play some games every now and then.

TCO


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The winter hasn't been that bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just gota play some games every now and then.
> 
> TCO


Yeah, that's changed now that I own a house and my rig is upstairs. I was finally able to get my rig up and running last week after almost a year and a half build. So over the weekend I was able to get some much needed gaming in. Triple monitor gaming is a whole different experience than just single monitor


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> true not the same fan. As Martin commented on the discussion thread He wanted an average fan at that time and what fast did on the other hand is use one of the best fans around (if not the best) for rad job. I am looking forward for the push results fast and once again thank you mate for all the work you did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish you could get your hands on the Aquacomputer rads (both the AMS and the radical ones).


I have both an AMS and a Radical2 in hand








I need to tweak the thermal chamber a bit for the AMS due to to it's width - so that will most likely be the last one to be tested.
The AMS has a unique fan attachment thread, and only ship with hardware for single fans - see the notched cut out in pic below.
AquaComputer have sent additional hardware, waiting for it to arrive.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Will you just PM Akira *(THE EK REP)* and ask for a replacement, also there is no pressure there so as soon as you connect a pump it might take a leak.


Funnily the block was leaking alot less when the pump was active, when I turned the pump off, it started leaking like no tomorrow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> McMaster-Carr has all kinds of o-rings of various sizes. They even have o-ring cord stock if you want/need to make your own size. They do have the 54mm x 2mm that you mentioned though.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=w1ujr5


I would visit them but their office is all the way at the other end of my country








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Nitrile is cheap and is the most likely original oring material
> 
> here's a list
> http://www.manuf-rubber.com/pdf/Material-Guide.pdf


The Taobao one I found is listed as NBR which I believe is Nitrile, it costs $0.03!


----------



## Ceadderman

Get 100 of them then.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

One more to add to the stable











New case incoming and waiting on new psu as well.








smudges on the acetal....grrrr.....


----------



## Ceadderman

Get some Magwuires Plastic Conditioner werm. Poof! No more smudges.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

How much would any of you pay per fan on 15 AP-15's?

Also how are Magicool Rads? I just ordered a pair of 360's from ppc's


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> How much would any of you pay per fan on 15 AP-15's?
> 
> Also how are Magicool Rads? I just ordered a pair of 360's from ppc's


Magicool is Chinese.

They are also great, I have a Magicool 360 in the roof of my cosmos, great build quality


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> How much would any of you pay per fan on 15 AP-15's?


I recently bought 12 for $25 a piece







then sleeved all 12 to the motor.
Now I have 9 I need to sell in the hardware forum... Having to downsize to 1 system because I lost my sugar momma :sadpanda:


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Funnily the block was leaking alot less when the pump was active, when I turned the pump off, it started leaking like no tomorrow.
> I would visit them but their office is all the way at the other end of my country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Taobao one I found is listed as NBR which I believe is Nitrile, it costs $0.03!


LOL I can't translate Chinese I think at that price shipping will be 2000% of the actual product


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks, not sure this has been linked here before but I think is quite relevant for us. @fast_fate has done an incredible job of comparing current rads offers so I will leave a link to that info here for reference:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542405/extreme-rigs-radiator-review-round-up-2015-group-a
> 
> and the original reviews with @stren comments on push/pull that hit the head of the nail:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/
> 
> edit - I already +rep him since that is just a nice way to say "thank you" for all that work that benefits all the Water cooling community.


Awesome links!
So I would be better of buying 3x360 magic cool slim, instead of 2 alphacool st30?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> How much would any of you pay per fan on 15 AP-15's?
> 
> Also how are Magicool Rads? I just ordered a pair of 360's from ppc's


Magicool are an OEM,their rads will be equivalent to a lot of retail rads from the Chinese market.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magicool are an OEM,their rads will be equivalent to a lot of retail rads from the Chinese market.


thats good to know









just got 2x240's & was wondering if they were any good


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> One more to add to the stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New case incoming and waiting on new psu as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> smudges on the acetal....grrrr.....


New case??? You already got rid of the 900d?


----------



## guitarhero23

Examples of painted/plasti dip D5 pumps? Bonus reps if White, more bonus if white+pump top


----------



## Leyaena

One of Snef's builds had white D5 pumps IIRC.

Yup, here they are:


Here's the build log, if you're interested.


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Examples of painted/plasti dip D5 pumps? Bonus reps if White, more bonus if white+pump top


These are the factory white bp dress kits, for reference.


----------



## Mrreks

I got a question. I bought a raystorm 750 xspc kit. So im expanding to run both my 290x is the loop. My quest8on is. Will the slower 750 pump make my mcp655 pump work slower orno. Should I just fill the loop with the 750 then run the mcp655 one. Or is running both ok?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magicool are an OEM,their rads will be equivalent to a lot of retail rads from the Chinese market.


Good to know, it was hard to pass up getting them from PPC's for the uber low price of $45 (US)/Rad they were these BTW: Magicool Pro Slim Profile 3X120mm Radiator

Guess it's a good deal on those AP-15's then just wanted to check before I pull the trigger, especially since i could go for the Vardar F4-120's (2200 RPM's) (12) for $215.88 (before OCN55 code too)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get some Magwuires Plastic Conditioner werm. Poof! No more smudges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks bud








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> New case??? You already got rid of the 900d?


Yup, I didn't expect to get two of these cards. And if I did, it would have been with an horizontal matx. Not going matx, but I really would wanna go horizontal as these cards are heavy once blocked. Not going to risk damaging one or both by running them in traditional atx setup. a block w/ no accessories or water came in over one kilo. I would feel safer if they were in horizontal layout for less stress on the card and mb.


----------



## Razroid

Update:

I got the O-ring at a local place called Garlin Rubber.

Also, apparently 54 would be internal diameter, not external, leaving this information here in case anybody needs it. :3


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why haven't you done a rigbuilder for your Siggy Yet.
> 
> Im kinda spastic sometimes.
> 
> TCO


I thought I did unless I didn't save it I will do it again asap. Been very busy lately with my little two year old and working 80 hours a week lately


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yeah, that's changed now that I own a house and my rig is upstairs. I was finally able to get my rig up and running last week after almost a year and a half build. So over the weekend I was able to get some much needed gaming in. *Triple monitor gaming is a whole different experience than just single monitor*


You know it's funny you should say that, I went from gaming on a 1080p single monitor to 2560 single monitor and now I am getting a 3840 x 2160 single monitor.







I guess 4k isn't the res to try and multi it up eh?









TCO


----------



## wermad

I've been MMG for a while (3x1 and 5x1) and just got my 4k. First impressions are pretty good for the size (28") and windows 7 scaling does a good job.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I thought I did unless I didn't save it I will do it again asap. Been very busy lately with my little two year old and working 80 hours a week lately


Might help if it's in your siggy. You could enable it in your Profile page at the bottom of what rigs you want to display if you have already filled out the Builder.

TCO


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You know it's funny you should say that, I went from gaming on a 1080p single monitor to 2560 single monitor and now I am getting a 3840 x 2160 single monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess 4k isn't the res to try and multi it up eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


4K is still a little expensive for my taste. If I do change monitors at all I'll probably end up getting an Ultrawide. But a GPU upgrade probably needs to happen before any new monitors. My SLI GTX470's are really starting to show their age now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> 4K is still a little expensive for my taste. If I do change monitors at all I'll probably end up getting an Ultrawide


It's pretty much a 2560 on Steroids eh?

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Question of the day for me. Buy another 780 and sli it with the 780 I have now or get the next gpu that comes out (980ti) or whatever is slightly above the 980. Your thoughts ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Question of the day for me. Buy another 780 and sli it with the 780 I have now or get the next gpu that comes out (980ti) or whatever is slightly above the 980. Your thoughts ?


Dual 780s so you can put your Loop to work.

TCO


----------



## wermad

air leak tested my bridge mod and it works







. I should sell my crappy design to Koolance


----------



## DarthBaggins

So with my J.A.C build I'm wondering if I'll need a dual pump setup, I'll be running a BitsPower Full board block for a Asus Rampage V Extreme, and my Bitspower GTX 970 Strix block. Been trying to snag a D5 w/ 250 res off the Marketplace but seller doesn't seem to be answering PM's nor in sale thread so been looking at other avenues for buy a res and pump which I'd prefer a tube style res in this build since I have ample room for one in my M8.
@B NEGATIVE, @IT Diva , @Jameswalt1


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Examples of painted/plasti dip D5 pumps? Bonus reps if White, more bonus if white+pump top


Ek does d5 top in white so no need to paint it in white since the delrin comes in white from factory (unless of course you already have a black top and want to change color). If you need another color (other than black or white) then you would need to paint it. I have seen a few examples of it and even studied a bit and delrin is not the most friendly material to paint. Is difficult to get good adherence. I remember seeing a d5 ek top painted grey here in this thread. If I find it I will link it here.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ek does d5 top in white so no need to paint it in white since the delrin comes in white from factory (unless of course you already have a black top and want to change color). If you need another color (other than black or white) then you would need to paint it. I have see a few examples of it and even studied a bit and delrin is not the most friendly material to paint. Is difficult to get good adherence. I remember seeing a d5 ek top painted grey here in this thread. If I find it I will link it here.


Oops sorry I should have been more clear. Just meant a painted pump with some type of pump top on it. I plan to plasti dip my D5 white and put an EK plexi top on.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Oops sorry I should have been more clear. Just meant a painted pump with some type of pump top on it. I plan to plasti dip my D5 white and put an EK plexi top on.


ah ok. Then is easy and you have an example of it already (snef build).


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ah ok. Then is easy and you have an example of it already (snef build).


Which one of Snef's is it that he paints the actual pump (not using a dress kit)?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Which one of Snef's is it that he paints the actual pump (not using a dress kit)?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1469789/build-log-snefs-bloody-angel


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Which one of Snef's is it that he paints the actual pump (not using a dress kit)?


Why wouldn't you just try to scuff the paint with an abriasive pad then Tac Cloth, then just Spray it with Plasti or whatever you need?

The Cautious One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So with my J.A.C build I'm wondering if I'll need a dual pump setup, I'll be running a BitsPower Full board block for a Asus Rampage V Extreme, and my Bitspower GTX 970 Strix block. Been trying to snag a D5 w/ 250 res off the Marketplace but seller doesn't seem to be answering PM's nor in sale thread so been looking at other avenues for buy a res and pump which I'd prefer a tube style res in this build since I have ample room for one in my M8.
> @B NEGATIVE, @IT Diva , @Jameswalt1


Simply put,No you wont.

A single D5 is more than enough,you only need dual pumps for quad card/multi CPU systems and even then its not a requirement.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why wouldn't you just try to scuff the paint with an abriasive pad then Tac Cloth, then just Spray it with Plasti or whatever you need?
> 
> The Cautious One


I will, just curious as to how it looks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I will, just curious as to how it looks.


My apologies. Just wondering what the intentions were.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Any one tried these:
Quote:


> TwisterStorm
> Model UCTS12A
> Dimension (mm) 120(W) x 120(H) x 26.4(D)
> Speed Mode Performance Overclocking *Turbo*
> Speed (RPM) 1500 2500 *3500*
> Air Flow (CFM) 72.46 115.75 *154.53*
> Air Flow (m3/h) 123.11 196.61 *262.55*
> Static Pressure (mm-H2O) 2.512 6.698 *11.125*
> Noise (dBA) 23 30 38
> Rated Voltage (V) 12 12 12
> Input Current (A) 0.25 0.60 1.30
> Input Power (W) 3.0 7.2 15.6
> MTBF (hour) ≧160,000
> Connector 1 x 3 pin connector
> Accessory 4 x screw , 4 x Isolator-mounts, 1 x 4 pin fan power adaptor


http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_2&lv0=4&lv1=83&no=255


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one tried these:
> http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_2&lv0=4&lv1=83&no=255


Looks like a bunch of these I picked up for the Parvum Build





THey Moved some air though! I crunched one of the wires I had installed on the top rad So I ended up replacing them with Spectre Pro 120mm Bitfenix Led



You have the Stats of the Twisters.

EDIT: *Oh Goodness those are twister storm, mine were Twister Pressure.*

TCO


----------



## Rahldrac

So I have been wondering a lot about how to best drain my system. And right now I am thinking just a T-adapter with a tube with a plug. But what do I use to plug it?

Found This, but I cant really see how that will make a secure fit?
I thought about QDC, but they are so expensive, and can (according to some) wear out over time?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I have been wondering a lot about how to best drain my system. And right now I am thinking just a T-adapter with a tube with a plug. But what do I use to plug it?
> 
> Found This, but I cant really see how that will make a secure fit?
> I thought about QDC, but they are so expensive, and can (according to some) wear out over time?


Why not A Q Rotary and Drain Valve?

Look for the Drain Valve on Performance (Frozen is not operating at the moment.

The Cautious One

Koolance has quite the assortment too


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I have been wondering a lot about how to best drain my system. And right now I am thinking just a T-adapter with a tube with a plug. But what do I use to plug it?
> 
> Found This, but I cant really see how that will make a secure fit?
> I thought about QDC, but they are so expensive, and can (according to some) wear out over time?


http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=2445


----------



## emsj86

Ok so I would like to get another 780 to sli. I have an i7 4790k at 4.8 and one bios flashed 780 oc now. Two rads 360 ex360 xspc and a swiftech 240 rad. I use only pull with sp120 fans. My temps our max 78 ibt on cpu and gpu never seen it above 42 in any game or rendering. Would Another 780 oc of course raise my temps a lot. If so I have enthoo pro so not a lot of clearance on top. What would you recommend if a rad is needed will another slim 360 be that much better than the xspc I have now. Just looking for ideas and suggestions thank you. Edit I could always throw a 240 up front but feel it will make my tubing runs look bad.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so I would like to get another 780 to sli. I have an i7 4790k at 4.8 and one bios flashed 780 oc now. Two rads 360 ex360 xspc and a swiftech 240 rad. I use only pull with sp120 fans. My temps our max 78 ibt on cpu and gpu never seen it above 42 in any game or rendering. Would Another 780 oc of course raise my temps a lot. If so I have enthoo pro so not a lot of clearance on top. What would you recommend if a rad is needed will another slim 360 be that much better than the xspc I have now. Just looking for ideas and suggestions thank you. Edit I could always throw a 240 up front but feel it will make my tubing runs look bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wouldn't you have to redo the tubing if you add another 780 anyway? So you have a 360 and 240 in the loop right now. I am unsure what the difference in heat would be by adding another GPU to the loop... .(Speculation) but maybe another 5-10C?? I would lower voltage on the Cores of your processor (Since running it at 4.8Ghz would do nothing in terms of gaming performance) and see if you can Top out around 70c while gaming (Single 780) to acommidate the extra heat from SLI being dumped into the loop. (78-80c SLI Temps)

TCO


----------



## emsj86

I was meaning the tubing wouldn't be as nice if I added a from 240 rad to go with the other two rads. (Than again I could just drill some holes through the bays and flip the 360 around so the port would be up front allowing most of the tubing to be hidden and not overdone. As of right now with the current setup no game has pushed the cpu over 65. Intel burn test gets it up to 78 for a second


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I was meaning the tubing wouldn't be as nice if I added a from 240 rad to go with the other two rads. (Than again I could just drill some holes through the bays and flip the 360 around so the port would be up front allowing most of the tubing to be hidden and not overdone. As of right now with the current setup no game has pushed the cpu over 65. *Intel burn test gets it up to 78 for a second*


Then I do not see a problem keeping your Current Rad setup and Going for the gold.

TCO


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I have been wondering a lot about how to best drain my system. And right now I am thinking just a T-adapter with a tube with a plug. But what do I use to plug it?
> 
> Found This, but I cant really see how that will make a secure fit?
> I thought about QDC, but they are so expensive, and can (according to some) wear out over time?


What I have is a 4 way adapter, 2 used in the main loop, one used for a thermal probe and the last one is just plugged, when I need to drain, I just place a container under that adapter and unscrew the plug.

Not very elegant, bu't I'm on a budget and it does the job


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> What I have is a 4 way adapter, 2 used in the main loop, one used for a thermal probe and the last one is just plugged, when I need to drain, I just place a container under that adapter and unscrew the plug.
> 
> Not very elegant, bu't I'm on a budget and it does the job


Sounds like it would work but would just cause more of a risk of spilling. If you are carefuk i dont see why it wouldnt work.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Sounds like it would work but would just cause more of a risk of spilling. If you are carefuk i dont see why it wouldnt work.


Yeah, it works pretty well man, I drained the whole loop yesterday when my Supreme HF was leaking. I also just had a derp moment where I left the drain port open with coolant still inside and I started shaking my cosmos around to try and bleed the loop.









I am also somewhat convinced that there is a bubble generator inside my roof radiator :/


----------



## Bluemustang

Well i finally, finally got my loop working after hitting a few problems. Now i've got 1 more problem im not sure if i need to remedy.

There is a leak that appears to be coming from the dip stick thing on the inside of my bitspower z-multi 250 reservoir. I dont think i really need to worry about this do i? I've already had to take the res/pump down once to fix a leak from the bottom of the res and then redo a tube run (hard tubing) from pump to rad since there was a leak at the fitting. If its not really important id really rather not take it down again. The leak is slow, maybe 1 drip every 5-10 seconds.

Also i need to run mayhems part 2 cleaning for 24 hours now that ive verfied the loop is finally working (bar that internal leak). Should i worry about water temps rising to dangerous levels from running the pump (MCP655 D5) at setting 5 for 24 hours without the fans running (just the pump). It's 2 480 rads, ut60 and xt45. That should be enough cooling for the pump without fans right?

Thanks


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Well i finally, finally got my loop working after hitting a few problems. Now i've got 1 more problem im not sure if i need to remedy.
> 
> There is a leak that appears to be coming from the dip stick thing on the inside of my bitspower z-multi 250 reservoir. I dont think i really need to worry about this do i? I've already had to take the res/pump down once to fix a leak from the bottom of the res and then redo a tube run (hard tubing) from pump to rad since there was a leak at the fitting. If its not really important id really rather not take it down again. The leak is slow, maybe 1 drip every 5-10 seconds.
> 
> Also i need to run mayhems part 2 cleaning for 24 hours now that ive verfied the loop is finally working (bar that internal leak). Should i worry about water temps rising to dangerous levels from running the pump (MCP655 D5) at setting 5 for 24 hours without the fans running (just the pump). It's 2 480 rads, ut60 and xt45. That should be enough cooling for the pump without fans right?
> 
> Thanks


Not too sure what you are talking about for the reservoir but the pump should be fine running without fans, passive cooling from the radiators will cool the coolant down.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Not too sure what you are talking about for the reservoir but the pump should be fine running without fans, passive cooling from the radiators will cool the coolant down.


The dipstick (for the intlet) that sticks inside the reservoir below the waterline to avoid circulating air. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html

It appears to be leaking from the inside (top where the inlet comes in, but from the dipstick that screws into the top of the reservoir on the inside).

Sorry not sure how to explain that better.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Simply put,No you wont.
> 
> A single D5 is more than enough,you only need dual pumps for quad card/multi CPU systems and even then its not a requirement.


Just wanted to make sure I'd be good due to the Full cover BitsPower block, thanks as per usual


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> The dipstick (for the intlet) that sticks inside the reservoir below the waterline to avoid circulating air. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html
> 
> It appears to be leaking from the inside (top where the inlet comes in, but from the dipstick that screws into the top of the reservoir on the inside).
> 
> Sorry not sure how to explain that better.


I don't think it really matters if it does not leak all over any electrical parts?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I don't think it really matters if it does not leak all over any electrical parts?


I'd imagine not. Even if its the inlet that leads to the outside fitting, as long as the outside fitting is fine i suspect a few drops from the inside of where the dipstick (for lack of a better term) screws on shouldnt hurt anything.

But i just had to ask before i consider this leak tested and run part 2 mayhems cleaning for 24 hours. Or if it could like cause corrosion from having a slow drip of water on the dip stick? idk

Oh and there's some condensation building up on the top inside of the reservoir. Not sure if thats normal or if it might be from the internal leak.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I don't think it really matters if it does not leak all over any electrical parts?


Eh







not sure If I would like the thought of something leaking period. Best to cut out the problem from the start and just get it right before you really dive into the computer's software. I have a problem once I get in windows. THen you really don't want to open up the Cpu again and start working on it.

*The Cautious One*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I'd imagine not. Even if its the inlet that leads to the outside fitting, as long as the outside fitting is fine i suspect a few drops from the inside of where the dipstick (for lack of a better term) screws on shouldnt hurt anything.
> 
> But i just had to ask before i consider this leak tested and run part 2 mayhems cleaning for 24 hours. Or if it could like cause corrosion from having a slow drip of water on the dip stick? idk
> 
> Oh and there's some condensation building up on the top inside of the reservoir. Not sure if thats normal or if it might be from the internal leak.


Condensation is no problem, but you're defeating the purpose of the *Leak Test* if it's leaking already.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I'd imagine not. Even if its the inlet that leads to the outside fitting, as long as the outside fitting is fine i suspect a few drops from the inside of where the dipstick (for lack of a better term) screws on shouldnt hurt anything.
> 
> But i just had to ask before i consider this leak tested and run part 2 mayhems cleaning for 24 hours.
> 
> Oh and there's some condensation building up on the top inside of the reservoir. Not sure if thats normal or if it might be from the internal leak.


Yeah, as long as the leak does not get out of the reservoir you should be good.

Nah the condensation is normal.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Eh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure If I would like the thought of something leaking period. Best to cut out the problem from the start and just get it right before you really dive into the computer's software. I have a problem once I get in windows. THen you really don't want to open up the Cpu again and start working on it.
> 
> *The Cautious One*
> Condensation is no problem, but you're defeating the purpose of the *Leak Test* if it's leaking already.


Well, to be fair I personally will not drain and take apart the loop to fix that internal problem xP

Also, I can see why your username is TheCautiousOne


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Well, to be fair I personally will not drain and take apart the loop to fix that internal problem xP
> 
> Also, I can see why your username is TheCautiousOne


I guess you got a kick outta that one eh?







Most days I am, Sometimes not so much, Im glad me being cautious hasn't costs me a 500$ piece of hardware though







Particularly from a *LEAK*










The Cautious One


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Eh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure If I would like the thought of something leaking period. Best to cut out the problem from the start and just get it right before you really dive into the computer's software. I have a problem once I get in windows. THen you really don't want to open up the Cpu again and start working on it.
> 
> *The Cautious One*
> Condensation is no problem, but you're defeating the purpose of the *Leak Test* if it's leaking already.


How am i defeating the purpose? There are no leaks outside the system, just the internal dipstick.

This build has gone on long enough with enough problems and constant fixes. I'm not taking everything down to fix something if it isnt necessary (which is why im asking, if there are any valid reasons i should take this all down again and rip my fingers up tightening the top reservoir cap again). It is afterall the reservoir, purpose built for holding water


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I guess you got a kick outta that one eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most days I am, Sometimes not so much, Im glad me being cautious hasn't costs me a 500$ piece of hardware though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Particularly from a *LEAK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


Well, It'll be up to @Bluemustang if he wants to be *Cautious*


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> How am i defeating the purpose? There are no leaks outside the system, just the internal dipstick.
> 
> This build has gone on long enough with enough problems and constant fixes. I'm not taking everything down to fix something if it isnt necessary (which is why im asking, if there are any valid reasons i should take this all down again and rip my fingers up tightening the top reservoir cap again). It is afterall the reservoir, purpose built for holding water


Because if you are going to leak test, and then take it all apart to fix *The Said Leak* you would in turn owe yourself another leak test. Kinda redundant but maybe give you an Idea of the purpose of a *LEAK TEST* . Ok OK!! How bout this, you know there is a leak, yet you leak test, you see water from the known leak but may not be able to decipher if that leak was from somewhere else because there was already a leak, water, EVIL







(water)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Well, It'll be up to @Bluemustang if he wants to be *Cautious*


This Guy


----------



## Ceadderman

I will simply stick to a 40" or better Flatscreen. My 6870s should EASILY cover that much real estate, given my Bros R7770 can cover a 32" and one 23" display through HDMI.









Gonna put together some more WCing gear via PPCs, sometime in the next week, so I will be putting together my leaktest gauge while waiting for the goodies to arrive.

1 1/4" NPT "T" fitting
1 1/4" schraeder valve
Air gauge
And finish it with NPT to G 1/4 adapter. (Courtesy of Darlene)

This simply makes the best idea since sliced bread. Leakdown tests sped up dramatically, make getting back up and running much faster. If there IS a leak you'll know right where it's at with no water to damage precious components. I figured I'd reshare the info that is buried in this thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Because if you are going to leak test, and then take it all apart to fix *The Said Leak* you would in turn owe yourself another leak test. Kinda redundant but maybe give you an Idea of the purpose of a *LEAK TEST* . Ok OK!! How bout this, you know there is a leak, yet you leak test, you see water from the known leak but may not be able to decipher if that leak was from somewhere else because there was already a leak, water, EVIL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (water)
> This Guy


Except *Said Leak* seemingly does not matter in terms of safety therefor the *Leak Test* is complete for all practical purposes.

If anyone can give me a practical reason to continue aggravating myself beyond "its a leak, therefor fix it", cool otherwise id just like to get this thing finished.

Im just really aggitated with this build and want to get it finished already. Its been 1 1/2 months of research then 3-4 weeks of building and waiting. 2 weeks of which has been waiting on PPCS bs backups and excuses. Another few days for problems. I just want to get this thing finished. And frankly i dont want to touch/remove that tube run thats connected to the res/pump combo. Thats the tube run i had to replace (ran it to a dif rad port to give more room for the 90 degree turn from the pump) and its finally working and i just want to leave well enough alone









Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Bluemustang








Sorry about that. Good luck Mate.

The *Cautious* One


----------



## wermad

I had to crank my plugs as just "enough" turning torque was not enough. Ended with several small leaks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Try a single wrap of silicon tape on the threads. Should fix the leak for all intents and purposes. Just be mindful of it when applying pressure so it won't crack anything.









~Ceadder


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Except *Said Leak* seemingly does not matter in terms of safety therefor the *Leak Test* is complete for all practical purposes.
> 
> If anyone can give me a practical reason to continue aggravating myself beyond "its a leak, therefor fix it", cool otherwise id just like to get this thing finished.
> 
> Im just really aggitated with this build and want to get it finished already. Its been 1 1/2 months of research then 3-4 weeks of building and waiting. 2 weeks of which has been waiting on PPCS bs backups and excuses. Another few days for problems. I just want to get this thing finished. And frankly i dont want to touch/remove that tube run thats connected to the res/pump combo. Thats the tube run i had to replace (ran it to a dif rad port to give more room for the 90 degree turn from the pump) and its finally working and i just want to leave well enough alone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


My own build was span across 2 years of research, waiting on parts, bending, failing at bending, changing more parts, parts leaking and now finally no more leaks (I hope)

I want to get my system up as much as you do mate


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> My own build was span across 2 years of research, waiting on parts, bending, failing at bending, changing more parts, parts leaking and now finally no more leaks (I hope)
> 
> I want to get my system up as much as you do mate


That sucks heh.

Except for me the last 3 weeks since i had to wait on PPCS i've had to use this garbage laptop that really ticks me off. So i dont have all my programs and obviously cant game.

Everything just feels.....wrong, without my main build in use









And yeah, i had lots of trouble with bending. Probably spent 3 days at least all tallied together. Most of my 5 runs i did in 1 or 2 tries, but that last long run took me 5 tries before i got it right, but then it leaked so i had to do the run a 6th time (just slightly different to a different rad port to give the 90 to the pump more room, as that was my thought for why it leaked). I flippin hate that last run lol. I'll see about posting up some picks in a bit here when i get the mayhems running. And obviously thisll be with the cleaning solution, mayhems ice white is going in for coolant.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> That sucks heh.
> 
> Except for me the last 3 weeks since i had to wait on PPCS i've had to use this garbage laptop that really ticks me off. So i dont have all my programs and obviously cant game.
> 
> Everything just feels.....wrong, without my main build in use


I've been on a i3 laptop with integrated Intel garbage for the last 2 years


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> That sucks heh.
> 
> Except for me the last 3 weeks since i had to wait on PPCS i've had to use this garbage laptop that really ticks me off. So i dont have all my programs and obviously cant game.
> 
> Everything just feels.....wrong, without my main build in use


I feel you brudda. Same boat until two days ago when I finished the build.

It's worth the wait, I promise you.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theSarcoplasmic*
> 
> I feel you brudda. Same boat until two days ago when I finished the build.
> 
> It's worth the wait, I promise you.


It does not boot D:

It just pulses power when I click the power button and then goes off again in half a second D:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Sounds like your mobo, CPU, or psu


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> It does not boot D:
> 
> It just pulses power when I click the power button and then goes off again in half a second D:


Oh my, that's a downer. I had so many troubles getting mine to boot.

1. Did you sleeve your own cables?
2. Make sure the RAM is seated properly.
3. Your power supply is enough?
4. Did the PSU work during the leak test? As in, did it power the pump when you jumped the mobo connector?


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theSarcoplasmic*
> 
> Oh my, that's a downer. I had so many troubles getting mine to boot.
> 
> 1. Did you sleeve your own cables?
> 2. Make sure the RAM is seated properly.
> 3. Your power supply is enough?
> 4. Did the PSU work during the leak test? As in, did it power the pump when you jumped the mobo connector?


1. Nope, extensions
2. Just reseated them to different slots, same thing.
3. I'm pretty sure it is.
4. I know the psu works, I tested it before, I just used another spare psu to power the pump during leak test.

BRB, I'll go find a table to flip and I'll be right back


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> 1. Nope, extensions
> 2. Just reseated them to different slots, same thing.
> 3. I'm pretty sure it is.
> 4. I know the psu works, I tested it before, I just used another spare psu to power the pump during leak test.
> 
> BRB, I'll go find a table to flip and I'll be right back


check all cables mate. cpu cable, 24 pin cable, vga cable and so on. Also, do a cold boot. Take the power cord from the psu. wait a few seconds and plug again.


----------



## Bluemustang

Oh god.....after all this work this crap bitspower reservoir leaked from the same spot again. It ran without leaks (after i tightned it after the first leak, killing my hands in the process) for an hour on d5 full speed. I drained and filled with mayhems part 2 and 10-15 minutes in.....leaking from the same spot. The design on this bitspower reservoir is pathetic. The cap cant fully tighten down onto the O-Ring (which i did install btw)

So, anyway.....i am going to RMA it with PPCS and i need to ask if the system is ok to sit for a few days (possibly almost a week) damp and with a little mayhems part 2 left in the system? If not im not sure what to do, i can empty most of it but there will still be a little left. And i cant run distilled through it now to clean it out. And even if i could, would it be ok for the system to sit mostly dry but with a little distilled left?

Man.....what a headache.


----------



## Razroid

UPDATE:

>Suspected Chinese 24 pin extension
>Pulled that off
>Broke another cable comb ($7)
>Flipped another table
>Plugged in 24 pin direct from psu
>Still does not boot
>Slapped a goat
>The Rampage III's boot status LED's are apparently very helpful
>Reseated ram
>WE HAVE BOOT!


----------



## ubbb69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Oh god.....after all this work this crap bitspower reservoir leaked from the same spot again. It ran without leaks (after i tightned it after the first leak, killing my hands in the process) for an hour on d5 full speed. I drained and filled with mayhems part 2 and 10-15 minutes in.....leaking from the same spot. The design on this bitspower reservoir is pathetic. The cap cant fully tighten down onto the O-Ring (which i did install btw)
> 
> So, anyway.....i am going to RMA it with PPCS and i need to ask if the system is ok to sit for a few days (possibly almost a week) damp and with a little mayhems part 2 left in the system? If not im not sure what to do, i can empty most of it but there will still be a little left. And i cant run distilled through it now to clean it out. And even if i could, would it be ok for the system to sit mostly dry but with a little distilled left?
> 
> Man.....what a headache.


Put a lil cooking oil on the o ring before you put it in the cap. It will allow the cap to tighten down.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubbb69*
> 
> Put a lil cooking oil on the o ring before you put it in the cap. It will allow the cap to tighten down.


Silicone grease helps too.


----------



## IT Diva

I must be on some "watch list" or something . . . .









Maybe it's all the tech and electronic parts I buy . . .

Another green tape special arrived . . . I'm almost more surprised when they don't open it these days.



At least they didn't drop it, break it, or loose anything.

A little polishing and it looks pretty nice now:





Looks like it's time to make some progress on Diva's Dementia.

Darlene


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubbb69*
> 
> Put a lil cooking oil on the o ring before you put it in the cap. It will allow the cap to tighten down.


Really? If thatll actually work and i can avoid an RMA thatd be awesome.

But, can that really be safe? What kind of oil? Think i've got some vegetable oil, probably some olive oil too.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I wouldn't use cooking oil or olive oil. Depending on what type of material the o-rings are made of either can possibly be damaging to them. Silicone grease (aka o-ring grease) would be the only thing I'd use.

http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart


----------



## ubbb69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I wouldn't use cooking oil or olive oil. Depending on what type of material the o-rings are made of either can possibly be damaging to them. Silicone grease (aka o-ring grease) would be the only thing I'd use.
> 
> http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart


Yeah pretty much any thing that will let it slide better so you can get the cap tight enough. Water may even work if you have a good grip. Or good ole spittle. We used vasaline on orings in the military on components for f 16's


----------



## BradleyW

I have a pitched whine on my D5 @ speeds 4 and 5.

My Pump

I have it sat on top of a foam block on the bottom of my chassis. I switched the D5 for a different one. Has the same noise on the same speed settings. It's easy to hear the noise with my super low spinning fans in a silent room.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.


----------



## ubbb69

All bitspower states on its oring is that it is rubber.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Sounds like it was over tightened and the gasket got pinched, and to lube rub a silicone spray lube on the oring before tightening the cylinder


----------



## guitarhero23

About how much will 1L of coolant get me? I have no sense of how much I would need (Would hate to pay $40 for two darn things of Mayhems)

RES: 150 maybe 250
RAD1: 240mm
RAD2: 360mm
RAM: EK Monarch 4x
CPU: EK Supremacy EVO
GPU: EK Block
Pump: D5+EK Pump Top

Tubing: About....~maybe 6-6.5 ft of 12mm tube?

Also, why is premixed more LESS expensive than concentrate...I would think it would be the other way around?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> About how much will 1L of coolant get me? I have no sense of how much I would need (Would hate to pay $40 for two darn things of Mayhems)
> 
> RES: 150 maybe 250
> RAD1: 240mm
> RAD2: 360mm
> RAM: EK Monarch 4x
> CPU: EK Supremacy EVO
> GPU: EK Block
> Pump: D5+EK Pump Top
> 
> Tubing: About....~maybe 6-6.5 ft of 12mm tube?
> 
> Also, why is premixed more expensive than concentrate...I would think it would be the other way around?


1.5L

You want extra for topping off. I lose more coolant than I'd like.

Premix includes the cost of mixing and distilled h20


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 1.5L
> 
> You want extra for topping off. I lose more coolant than I'd like.
> 
> Premix includes the cost of mixing and distilled h20


Meant to say LESS expensive.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-coolant-1-liter-blue-berry.html (Currently out of stock more normally around $19)
VS
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-blue-berry-concentrate-250ml.html


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Meant to say LESS expensive.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-coolant-1-liter-blue-berry.html (Currently out of stock more normally around $19)
> VS
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-blue-berry-concentrate-250ml.html


Funny I just asked this in the mayhems thread. The premix is 1L per bottle. The concentrate makes 2L for x1.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Funny I just asked this in the mayhems thread. The premix is 1L per bottle. The concentrate makes 2L for x1.


Who said this?

Performance-pcs: "Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry concentrate, 250 ml BOTTLE - WILL MAKE UP TO 1 LTR OF COOLANT"

Frozen CPU: "Mixture Ratio: 250mL concentrate to 750mL DI water or Ultra Pure" = 1L

I mean you COULD add it and make 2L but it wouldn't be the specified color since the ratio is off. Or is it?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Who said this?
> 
> Performance-pcs: "Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry concentrate, 250 ml BOTTLE - WILL MAKE UP TO 1 LTR OF COOLANT"
> 
> Frozen CPU: "Mixture Ratio: 250mL concentrate to 750mL DI water or Ultra Pure" = 1L
> 
> I mean you COULD add it and make 2L but it wouldn't be the specified color since the ratio is off. Or is it?


X1 concentrate bottle makes 2L
Pastel concentrate bottle makes 1L

both Pastel concentrate and Pastel premix are 19.95 a bottle and both are 1L
1 bottle of X1 concentrate is a substantial savings over 2 bottles of X1 premix


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> About how much will 1L of coolant get me? I have no sense of how much I would need (Would hate to pay $40 for two darn things of Mayhems)
> 
> RES: 150 maybe 250
> RAD1: 240mm
> RAD2: 360mm
> RAM: EK Monarch 4x
> CPU: EK Supremacy EVO
> GPU: EK Block
> Pump: D5+EK Pump Top
> 
> Tubing: About....~maybe 6-6.5 ft of 12mm tube?
> 
> Also, why is premixed more LESS expensive than concentrate...I would think it would be the other way around?


1L might do but depends on the rads you have. You can check some of the rads volume in the radiator volume thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493339/the-radiator-volume-thread

and some in fast_fate review at extremerigs to have an idea. Safe would be to get 2 L but you might get by with just 1.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I have a pitched whine on my D5 @ speeds 4 and 5.
> 
> My Pump
> 
> I have it sat on top of a foam block on the bottom of my chassis. I switched the D5 for a different one. Has the same noise on the same speed settings. It's easy to hear the noise with my super low spinning fans in a silent room.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thank you.


Bradley can you make a little experiment and lift from the foam the pump a bit to check if the decoupling is been effective? If noise remains it might be the case that the screws are to tight making the top part to be close to the spinning part of the pump that creates the vortex which will cause noise. I would personally drain the loop, take the pump out, disassemble, re-assemble it and test it out of the PC with a reservoir just to see what is going on. But that is a PITA I realize...


----------



## wermad

1Gal distilled from WalMart: $0.82. My rig fills with ~1.5Gal. i bought two jugs, cus good things come in pairs. Especially jugs


----------



## Bluemustang

To those that recommended using a lubricant, thanks so much. I added that and it appears to be working now. Although it was working earlier with just distilled, it wasnt until i ran mayhems part 2 cleaner that it started leaking again. But i even hooked the res up to the sink this time and used moderately high pressure and it didnt leak. So im hopeful for tomorrow when i try the cleaning again (luckily i have just enough part 2 left).

Though im concerned about what unicron said about it damaging the O-Ring!? I used olive oil. Put some in a cup and dipped the O-Ring in it and dabbed it off until it stopped dripping then dropped it in the hole and put the cap on.

I wouldnt think olive oil would damage a rubber oring? Please dont tell me i have to take that down again and redo it with something else. Or worse, buy a new oring and wait for shipping while my system sits wet.


----------



## Bluemustang

I.....cannot believe the response i just got back from performance-pcs. I have had rude suggestive customer service before, but i have never had straight up blatantly rude emails like this...

2 months since i've gotten into the water cooling scene and the quality control for parts, good business practices of places like ppcs and missing items and so many problems is beyond any other hobby or area ive ever been into.

Be nice if i could talk to a ppcs rep about this employees attitude. And here it is...

Jason

We get 20+ RMA requests a day. Do you really think we can afford to just send new parts out all the time and not get the returns back? Also many people damage parts that cannot be warranted. That is why we need to the parts back an to inspect them. This is common practice in e-tail. So please stop with the "you have to be kidding". RMA policies are all listed on the website and so why would we kid about them?

If you want to order another one in advance that is fine but we do not know anything about the problem with the other then what you mentioned and wont until we get it back here to check.
Best Regards,
Customer Service


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I have a pitched whine on my D5 @ speeds 4 and 5.
> 
> My Pump
> 
> I have it sat on top of a foam block on the bottom of my chassis. I switched the D5 for a different one. Has the same noise on the same speed settings. It's easy to hear the noise with my super low spinning fans in a silent room.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thank you.


This thread really helps I just posted it

http://www.overclock.net/t/1542995/d5-pump-speed-recommendations/0_30


----------



## Nichismo

finally made some progress with my new rebuild! I had a minor issue with the pump configurations but I sorted it out... also the modding of the chassis divider to accommodate the five panel fitting holes took longer than I expected but I should be rolling from this point forward! crystal link in 16mm is a whole new world of difficult but they look fantastic and will certainly be worth it in the end !


----------



## charliebrown

I like the way you doing the res having it come thru the back I'm doing my 900d that way


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> This thread really helps I just posted it
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542995/d5-pump-speed-recommendations/0_30


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I have a pitched whine on my D5 @ speeds 4 and 5.
> 
> My Pump
> 
> I have it sat on top of a foam block on the bottom of my chassis. I switched the D5 for a different one. Has the same noise on the same speed settings. It's easy to hear the noise with my super low spinning fans in a silent room.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thank you.


That thread reminded me of when I was running on 12v some kind of harmonic wine sounded like the pump was struggling so I 24volted it, actually runs quitter on 24v than 12v and 18v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> .cannot believe the response i just got back from performance-pcs. I have had rude suggestive customer service before, but i have never had straight up blatantly rude emails like this...
> 
> 2 months since i've gotten into the water cooling scene and the quality control for parts, good business practices of places like ppcs and missing items and so many problems is beyond any other hobby or area ive ever been into.
> 
> Be nice if i could talk to a ppcs rep about this employees attitude. And here it is...
> 
> 
> 
> Jason
> 
> We get 20+ RMA requests a day. Do you really think we can afford to just send new parts out all the time and not get the returns back? Also many people damage parts that cannot be warranted. That is why we need to the parts back an to inspect them. This is common practice in e-tail. So please stop with the "you have to be kidding". RMA policies are all listed on the website and so why would we kid about them?
> 
> If you want to order another one in advance that is fine but we do not know anything about the problem with the other then what you mentioned and wont until we get it back here to check.
> Best Regards,
> Customer Service


That sounds like me on a good day







sounds like a damaged o ring time to get out the RTV or sometimes it is easier just to get another o ring and quicker, as an mechanical engineer I often replace seals we have a local specialty seal shop, usually a half hour round trip and they measure them up even if you don't have a seal they will measure up the part it is going to be fitted to and even sometimes I get given the seal as it cost more to print the invoice.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> That thread reminded me of when I was running on 12v some kind of harmonic wine sounded like the pump was struggling so I 24volted it, actually runs quitter on 24v than 12v and 18v
> That sounds like me on a good day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sounds like a damaged o ring time to get out the RTV or sometimes it is easier just to get another o ring and quicker, as an mechanical engineer I often replace seals we have a local specialty seal shop, usually a half hour round trip and they measure them up even if you don't have a seal they will measure up the part it is going to be fitted to and even sometimes I get given the seal as it cost more to print the invoice.


Yeah, right. Except you never talk to a customer anything remotely close to that. Anywhere i've been youd have been fired for speaking to a customer like that. I have half a mind to drive over there and raise a storm.

Anyway as mentioned in my previous post i used olive oil as suggested by a member and it seemed to work. Unicron said it might be dangerous to the O-Ring though...thoughts? Google is giving me mixed responses to that.


----------



## Nichismo

PPCs is known to have pretty subpar customer service in terms of overall attitude and reception towards amending mistakes, even when its their own .

regardless, ill still order from them no matter what. For the most part, they are an efficient, trustworthy and solid company.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> I like the way you doing the res having it come thru the back I'm doing my 900d that way


thanks, helps add to the industrial feel. Took alot of work to do though.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Yeah, right. Except you never talk to a customer anything remotely close to that. Anywhere i've been youd have been fired for speaking to a customer like that. I have half a mind to drive over there and raise a storm.
> 
> Anyway as mentioned in my previous post i used olive oil as suggested by a member and it seemed to work. Unicron said it might be dangerous to the O-Ring though...thoughts? Google is giving me mixed responses to that.


I personally would use diluted dish washing liquid as a assembly lubricant or even just plain water, easy to wash off and less chance of contaminating residue left over.

It was a rather rude repose I guess customer service is not a strong point of PPC as I have often read.


----------



## jfro63

New Watercool Heatkiller Block and Backplate arrived in record time from Germany. Time to put the Titan under Water...


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Yeah, right. Except you never talk to a customer anything remotely close to that. Anywhere i've been youd have been fired for speaking to a customer like that. I have half a mind to drive over there and raise a storm.
> 
> Anyway as mentioned in my previous post i used olive oil as suggested by a member and it seemed to work. Unicron said it might be dangerous to the O-Ring though...thoughts? Google is giving me mixed responses to that.


Well I agree that was a rude email, you haven't shown us any of the ones you sent them leading to that attitude. If its anything like the fits you have been throwing in this thread about how you can't wait for you rig to be running and such I'm sure the ones you sent weren't very nice either.


----------



## Rahldrac

Strange looking backplate! Please post pictures of the finished results


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Mytoosense: That response didn't seem rude to me at all if it's in response to someone expecting a new item shipped out after complaining about something they received expecting not to have to return the item first. RMAs _usually_ require a returning the product first, and usually shipped at the customer's expense. Watercooling etailers are not Amazon. PPCs' RMA policies are clearly spelled out in the 'store policies' section of their site.

edit: Someone should probably add that this is B Neg's thread and he really doesn't care for people to be airing their e'tailer issues here. If someone feels they must vent about customer service (or lack thereof) that they received (or didn't) then it belongs in it's own thread so the staff can bury it in rants and raves.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Anyway as mentioned in my previous post i used olive oil as suggested by a member and it seemed to work. Unicron said it might be dangerous to the O-Ring though...thoughts? Google is giving me mixed responses to that.


When it dries it may cause the oring material to become brittle. Use silicone grease. Can get at home Depot or Amazon etc.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Mytoosense: That response didn't seem rude to me at all if it's in response to someone expecting a new item shipped out after complaining about something they received expecting not to have to return the item first. RMAs _usually_ require a returning the product first, and usually shipped at the customer's expense. Watercooling etailers are not Amazon. PPCs' RMA policies are clearly spelled out in the 'store policies' section of their site.
> 
> edit: Someone should probably add that this is B Neg's thread and he really doesn't care for people to be airing their e'tailer issues here. If someone feels they must vent about customer service (or lack thereof) that they received (or didn't) then it belongs in it's own thread so the staff can bury it in rants and raves.


This.

You have problem with a retailer,this is not the place to air them,make a thread in off topic/R+R.

Thanks Uni.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Anyway as mentioned in my previous post i used olive oil as suggested by a member and it seemed to work. Unicron said it might be dangerous to the O-Ring though...thoughts? Google is giving me mixed responses to that.


@Unicr0nhunter already provided you with a link showing that olive oil is not compatible with o-rings. Perhaps the charts were a little hard to read

Presuming you have a Z series reservoir, Bitspower shows the material used for the o-ring is EPDM http://bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81091135&kind2=14

Resistance assessment: http://www.matsmatsmats.com/commercial-industrial/epdm-resistance-to-chemicals.html



Palm, rapeseed and silicone oil would be fine, other oils eat/dissolve EPDM.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have problem with a retailer,this is not the place to air them,make a thread in off topic/R+R.


[raises hand] Guilty. Duly noted.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 1Gal distilled from WalMart: $0.82. My rig fills with ~1.5Gal. i bought two jugs, cus good things come in pairs. Especially jugs


















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Well I agree that was a rude email, you haven't shown us any of the ones you sent them leading to that attitude. If its anything like the fits you have been throwing in this thread about how you can't wait for you rig to be running and such I'm sure the ones you sent weren't very nice either.


Can I second this?









I do think that lubing the o ring with water while tightening it down would suffice, rather than using a lubricant as @feznz said.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still say it's a damaged o-ring and should replace and lube w/ Silicon lubricant spray since I know axle grease is not an option here, lol

Also have a feeling the tone of PPC's e-mail wasn't meant to be rude just informative, kind of hard to relay vocal inflection in text other than with limited punctuation


----------



## wermad

Ppcs has always had someone w/ an attitude. But, don't be pushy right off the bat when needing customer service. It doesn't get you much w/ the little companies. Leave that when you're rma is several weeks behind or something like that. Crap happens to everyone one. Be patient and reserve your anger when its appropriate. Contact Philly if you feel you're not getting the right service. Otherwise, go to the off-topic section to vent.

New case is being shipped from across the country and with the weather issues, its gonna be a no show for this weekend to finish it







. Current ghetto rigged rig







. Getting respectable temps for just a bit of stability benching. Its cold right now, time to fire up the furnaces in 4k gaming


----------



## pc-illiterate

Cold in San Diego. Temp must've dropped under 83°


----------



## wermad

~16-18°C







, just a week or two ago ~26-32°C....


----------



## GySgtHartman404




----------



## wermad

Very clean


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 1Gal distilled from WalMart: $0.82. My rig fills with ~1.5Gal. i bought two jugs, cus good things come in pairs. Especially jugs


I can find zero fault with this logic.

And thanks to all for the helpful info about coolant volumes/purchase options.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ~16-18°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a week or two ago ~26-32°C....


Oh quit your complaining. That's about what it's been here, but Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. It was -12F one morning on the way into work last week


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Oh quit your complaining. That's about what it's been here, but Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. It was -12F one morning on the way into work last week


Even colder the closer you get to Lake Erie. It does make for some nice ambient though


----------



## wermad

...not laughing at you guys. Just at us socal folks who bicker when it gets somewhat cold


----------



## gdubc

Finally getting the rest of my parts rounded up to finish. Received a mcp35x yesterday from Sidewinder along with a swiftech pwm splitter. Then put in my order with PPCS for other various things including a lovely ek d5 pwm and dress kit. Can't wait!!!


Spoiler: My PPCS mini rant



On the topic of ppcs, you would think that with all the business they must be getting with frozen shut down there would be more good attitudes. I just emailed them a bit ago to see if they would come down in price on some other parts that I can get from OCUK much cheaper. I wasn't trying to get an exact price match, (they say they price match US stores) just a better deal to make it worth getting local (I wanted 24 pieces and ppcs wanted $7.50 more each compared to OCUK). The rep seemed to have some attitude from the beginning, like he couldnt believe the price and the following emails felt belittling. It didn't cause me to not place an order at all from them, but my order was about 1/4 the size it would have been. I guess I just got the stuff from them I couldn't get elsewhere come to think of it...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...not laughing at you guys. Just at us socal folks who bicker when it gets somewhat cold


cold to you is still probably short weather for me. I was in Santa Barbra two summers ago doing a couple shows for July 4 and on my way back to the hotel the night before,about 75F probably, I was driving around with all the windows down in shorts a tee shirt, and there were people walking around in jeans and sweatshirts. I couldn't help but laugh


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Well I agree that was a rude email, you haven't shown us any of the ones you sent them leading to that attitude. If its anything like the fits you have been throwing in this thread about how you can't wait for you rig to be running and such I'm sure the ones you sent weren't very nice either.


I just said "youve gotta be kidding me, the last time i had to rma something with ppcs i was simply sent a replacement. This pc has been outa commision for weeks due to backorders from you as well as other problems and now my system is damp with cleaning solution that i need to get out. Im risking damaging my computer if i have to wait on sending an item in, getting it checked, then wait on new one shipped out"

But....regardless of what i said, attitude from customer service is NEVER acceptable. Like i said all other businesses i've worked in and been around would have been fired or gotten in trouble for such things.

And "the fits i've thrown"? Sure, i've voiced my aggravation with problems that have gone on in my build, thats natural and im just chatting about it. But i dont appreciate the tone.

About voicing my problems with etailers. I was only doing that because i was astonished at the customer service and i wanted to let people know about it. But ill refrain from that now...


----------



## ledzepp3

My rig is in pieces right now due to a faulty motherboard







I've got an EK Supremacy in there right now with the proper jet plate, but do you guys think it'd be worthwhile switching to an EVO or nah? Also, my temps are getting a little high for my comfort zone, and I'm considering swapping out my front 360mm rad for a 420mm. I'm sure it wouldn't yield any large gains, but would that be worthwhile?

-Zepp


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> My rig is in pieces right now due to a faulty motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got an EK Supremacy in there right now with the proper jet plate, but do you guys think it'd be worthwhile switching to an EVO or nah? Also, my temps are getting a little high for my comfort zone, and I'm considering swapping out my front 360mm rad for a 420mm. I'm sure it wouldn't yield any large gains, but would that be worthwhile?
> 
> -Zepp


keep the block. evo x old supremacy will make no difference, at least is what I remember from stren test in extremerigs. As to the rad it depends too on the rad - fan combination. It is more area but finding good 140 mm fans is not that easy still today although some good fans do exist (like Phanteks and Prolimatech 140 mm fans).


----------



## inedenimadam

What the heck man! This loop is less than 2 months old, and the EK pastel is less than a month in. I never had any problem with algae in my last loop with Home Depot tubing, 2 years and never used any biocides! Is tygon tubing just prone? None has developed inside the res.

Not a happy camper









Need some suggestions as to where to go from here....


----------



## wermad

That sucks. Tbh, dump the liquid and tube. Go with primochill advanced clear and mayhem pastel. I wouldn't reuse the liquid as you may have algae free floating.

My









Edit: btw, I would run your components through hot water and maybe vinager/water cleaner.


----------



## Vivi_ZA

ewww


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> What the heck man! This loop is less than 2 months old, and the EK pastel is less than a month in. I never had any problem with algae in my last loop with Home Depot tubing, 2 years and never used any biocides! Is tygon tubing just prone? None has developed inside the res.
> 
> Not a happy camper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need some suggestions as to where to go from here....
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2369505/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


I used tygon 1000 for almost a year without any problem. Seems like a full drain and cleaning is called for and also a close inspection to check if is algae indeed (it looks like). I would take that tube out and cut it to check what is that. What tygon model is that? I suggest you take this to Mayhems thread too. Swiftech had instructions on their site of how to flush the loop with pine sol. Another alternative is mayhems blitz. What are the other components? Rads?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That sucks. Tbh, dump the liquid and tube. Go with primochill advanced clear and mayhem pastel. I wouldn't reuse the liquid as you may have algae free floating.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: btw, I would run your components through hot water and maybe vinager/water cleaner.


Isnt EK supplied by mayhem for their pastel?

so dump and new tubing....another month or so and I was going to go hard tubing and put the 980s in. Might just do home depot tubing and distilled until I have funds to finish the loop properly. Building high end computers is getting expensive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I used tygon 1000 for almost a year without any problem. Seems like a full drain and cleaning is called for and also a close inspection to check if is algae indeed (it looks like). I would take that tube out and cut it to check what is that. What tygon model is that? I suggest you take this to Mayhems thread too. Swiftech had instructions on their site of how to flush the loop with pine sol. Another alternative is mayhems blitz. What are the other components? Rads?


Tygon E-3603
480 PE
Supremancy EVO
EK D5+top
400mm EK res

pretty straightforward loop, flushed with hot before building.

is it odd that it is just on the tubing and not the res.


----------



## wermad

Don't know tbh, but even if it's the same, your current batch is contaminated. Unless you treat it or boil it. I wouldn't risk it.

As for the tube, might as well get the hardline setup going


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> keep the block. evo x old supremacy will make no difference, at least is what I remember from stren test in extremerigs. As to the rad it depends too on the rad - fan combination. It is more area but finding good 140 mm fans is not that easy still today although some good fans do exist (like Phanteks and Prolimatech 140 mm fans).


I tend to run NoiseBlocker PK fans if I need a 140mm fan, but I'd be open to any other black fan with a square frame.

-Zepp


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> *Isnt EK supplied by mayhem for their pastel?*
> 
> so dump and new tubing....another month or so and I was going to go hard tubing and put the 980s in. Might just do home depot tubing and distilled until I have funds to finish the loop properly. Building high end computers is getting expensive.
> Tygon E-3603
> 480 PE
> Supremancy EVO
> EK D5+top
> 400mm EK res
> 
> pretty straightforward loop, flushed with hot before building.
> 
> is it odd that it is just on the tubing and not the res.


Yes, Mayhem's provides EK with their Pastel line of coolants


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yes, Mayhem's provides EK with their Pastel line of coolants


which is why I suggested you @inedenimadam to take this to Mayhems thread too:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/10020#post_23596338


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> 1. Nope, extensions
> 2. Just reseated them to different slots, same thing.
> 3. I'm pretty sure it is.
> 4. I know the psu works, I tested it before, I just used another spare psu to power the pump during leak test.
> 
> BRB, I'll go find a table to flip and I'll be right back


I actually had this happen to me once and it turned out that I had the. 3 pin wire on the wrong terminals (of the four pin fan header). I'd press power everything came on and than shut off right away. Stupied mistake but took me awhile as to the eye it looked like it was connected correctly. I'd go through every where and make sure there in the right areas and seated proper. Remove and install the memorey again and try it out. Just an idea


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> What the heck man! This loop is less than 2 months old, and the EK pastel is less than a month in. I never had any problem with algae in my last loop with Home Depot tubing, 2 years and never used any biocides! Is tygon tubing just prone? None has developed inside the res.
> 
> Not a happy camper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need some suggestions as to where to go from here....


pretty sure martin would tell you its the tygon 3603. plasticizer leeching tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Tygon does sell a plasticizer free tubing, but I haven't tried it (mostly use clearflex or masterkleer now if going clear). I used to use Tygon 3603 when I first started water cooling and while I do like the durometer flexibility, it clouded on me pretty bad too. I have had much better luck with cheaper tubing like clearflex and masterkleer staying clear. Anyhow, I wouldn't blame the dye, Tygon 3603 is pretty well known for it's plasticizer issues.
> 
> Nice photos though, still looks good even with the minty green.


http://imgur.com/a/0kXP0


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> What the heck man! This loop is less than 2 months old, and the EK pastel is less than a month in. I never had any problem with algae in my last loop with Home Depot tubing, 2 years and never used any biocides! Is tygon tubing just prone? None has developed inside the res.
> 
> Not a happy camper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need some suggestions as to where to go from here....
> 
> 
> 
> pretty sure martin would tell you its the tygon 3603. plasticizer leeching tubing.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Tygon does sell a plasticizer free tubing, but I haven't tried it (mostly use clearflex or masterkleer now if going clear). I used to use Tygon 3603 when I first started water cooling and while I do like the durometer flexibility, it clouded on me pretty bad too. I have had much better luck with cheaper tubing like clearflex and masterkleer staying clear. Anyhow, I wouldn't blame the dye, Tygon 3603 is pretty well known for it's plasticizer issues.
> 
> Nice photos though, still looks good even with the minty green.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/0kXP0
Click to expand...

well that sucks. I sorted the tubing at the PPCS website by "plasticizer free" and its the first stuff that comes up:

I cant spend any money unitl after the 6th, at which time I will go ahead and go hard line. Until then, I hope this does not bring my computer to sentience!


----------



## Bluemustang

Ok, i found out why i was continually getting a leak from the reservoir. I have the res mounted to the back of case and it puts a little pressure on the res when i close the clasps that secure it. Apparently the threads cant handle that little pressure.

Only remedy for this is going to be to move the res to the HDD cages (900D case) and have the pump just sitting (maybe velcroed) to the plate the bottom hdd cage (removed) mounts too. Thatll remove any sideways pressure from the res.

I'll be needing a shorter reservoir for that so im just going to cave in and buy the second pump and dual pump top i was planning on adding in a few months anyway. Got a question about that though. The dual pump top will work with 2 D5s without anything else like like the bitspower mod kit for the pump body right?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-2d5topac-uvbl-dual-d5-mod-top-acrylic-version-uv-blue.html pump top
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-d5-mcp655-mod-kit-black-sparkle-finish.html mod kit


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> *Ok, i found out why i was continually getting a leak from the reservoir. I have the res mounted to the back of case and it puts a little pressure on the res when i close the clasps that secure it. Apparently the threads cant handle that little pressure.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Only remedy for this is going to be to move the res to the HDD cages (900D case) and have the pump just sitting (maybe velcroed) to the plate the bottom hdd cage (removed) mounts too. Thatll remove any sideways pressure from the res.
> 
> I'll be needing a shorter reservoir for that so im just going to cave in and buy the second pump and dual pump top i was planning on adding in a few months anyway. Got a question about that though. The dual pump top will work with 2 D5s without anything else like like the bitspower mod kit for the pump body right?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-2d5topac-uvbl-dual-d5-mod-top-acrylic-version-uv-blue.html pump top
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-d5-mcp655-mod-kit-black-sparkle-finish.html mod kit


Glad you figured out where It was coming from Mr. Stang.

Pretty Sure the D5's just screw into the mod top eh? I thought the Mod kit was purely asthetics?

The Cautious ONe

Found This While Browsing


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## guitarhero23

Ppcs customer service stink but now maybe you can see why theyd make you send it in first?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ppcs customer service stink but now maybe you can see why theyd make you send it in first?


Doesnt mean it isnt defective. It *comes* with those clasps for exactly the purpose im using it for, mounting it to the back of the case (and no it isnt holding the weight of the pump+res, pump is screwed to back of case too). The little pressure exerted shouldnt cause it to leak, but it does. I found out thats whats causing it as on my last try to get it working i oiled the Oring and i didnt tighten the cap to the body hard (under the assumption maybe i was over tightening) nope.....it leaked as soon as i secured the clasps.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Glad you figured out where It was coming from Mr. Stang.
> 
> Pretty Sure the D5's just screw into the mod top eh? I thought the Mod kit was purely asthetics?
> 
> The Cautious ONe
> 
> Found This While Browsing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats what i thought too but im trying to find out for sure. Only videos ive found so far shows screwing the mod kit onto the dual pump top.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Thats what i thought too but im trying to find out for sure. Only videos ive found so far shows screwing the mod kit onto the dual pump top.


Looks as though the Male fittings are on the Actual D5 mod kit (not the Acrylic Top)


Spoiler: MOD IT











TCO

Check around 6.47 in the Vid










(Im sorry I am extremely bored at work )


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Looks as though the Male fittings are on the Actual D5 mod kit (not the Acrylic Top)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: MOD IT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Check around 6.47 in the Vid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Im sorry I am extremely bored at work )


So you're saying it appears that the mod kit is necessary to mate the pump to the dual pump top? Thats what i was hoping wasnt the case and it was only aesthetic. Also i need to remove the molex to get the housing on, that could have been solved by having one of the holes letting you slide the cable through without removing the moles, oh well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> So you're saying it appears that the mod kit is necessary to mate the pump to the dual pump top? Thats what i was hoping wasnt the case and it was only aesthetic. Also i need to remove the molex to get the housing on, that could have been solved by having one of the holes letting you slide the cable through without removing the moles, oh well.


That's what appears to be happening. Since the D5 pump is smooth, the colar from the D5 Mod Kit (shiny part) Is what mates to the Acrlyic top. So in this case, Looks at though you would need two, one for each pump, and yes you would have to remove the molex wires to pass through the (bottom) of the D5 Chamber.

TCO.

Anyone else could confirm or deny this. Speculation from Observing the process of "Modding" the D5's in the Video that was found.


----------



## electro2u

I was gonna say, I have the mod kit (pump cover) and my reservoir fits tightly against the bitspower pump top, which I bought separately.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's what appears to be happening. Since the D5 pump is smooth, the colar from the D5 Mod Kit (shiny part) Is what mates to the Acrlyic top. So in this case, Looks at though you would need two, one for each pump, and yes you would have to remove the molex wires to pass through the (bottom) of the D5 Chamber.
> 
> TCO.
> 
> Anyone else could confirm or deny this. Speculation from Observing the process of "Modding" the D5's in the Video that was found.


Yeah, actually im pretty sure you're right. I just found the EK dual d5 top and it includes a retention plate. The bitspower one appears to be designed to work with the mod kit.

Decisions decisions, the EK one is pretty ugly.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello Guys,
Finally I have all the parts to start my custom build WC, I'm starting to plan my sleeving and cause of that I have one doubt I'll be doing a crossfire x between a Asus HD7970 DUII T and an Asus R9 280x DCII T my PSU is a Corsair AX1200i and I wanna know if theres any problem to use instead of 4 power cables ( 2 cables per VGA ) use 1 Y cable per VGA pluging the two heads of the Y on a single VGA or using the Y clable to connect the two VGA. Theres some kind of problem or loss of power doing this ?

Thank you guys


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello Guys,
> Finally I have all the parts to start my custom build WC, I'm starting to plan my sleeving and cause of that I have one doubt I'll be doing a crossfire x between a Asus HD7970 DUII T and an Asus R9 280x DCII T my PSU is a Corsair AX1200i and I wanna know if theres any problem to use instead of 4 power cables ( 2 cables per VGA ) use 1 Y cable per VGA pluging the two heads of the Y on a single VGA or using the Y clable to connect the two VGA. Theres some kind of problem or loss of power doing this ?
> 
> Thank you guys


you should be perfectly fine using y-split PCI cables (1 set per card).
To my knowledge, its only an issue if you're running a R9 295X2, which requires a separate PCI cable for each 8-pin connector.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> you should be perfectly fine using y-split PCI cables (1 set per card).
> To my knowledge, its only an issue if you're running a R9 295X2, which requires a separate PCI cable for each 8-pin connector.


Thank you very much Hobbsmeerkat.


----------



## wermad

Amd recommends minimum 28amp per rail for multi rail units.

I have rails 3 & 4 for the first card (one rail per 8 pin) and rails 5 & 6 for the second card on my lepa g1600.

For my old v1000, single rail, it ran one card at a time on any vga plug.

Any one have an AC res? Looking for mounting ideas.


----------



## Nichismo

Almost done with the plumbing loops.... So stoked to finally have the rig up and running again, its been far too long


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I actually had this happen to me once and it turned out that I had the. 3 pin wire on the wrong terminals (of the four pin fan header). I'd press power everything came on and than shut off right away. Stupied mistake but took me awhile as to the eye it looked like it was connected correctly. I'd go through every where and make sure there in the right areas and seated proper. Remove and install the memorey again and try it out. Just an idea


Already got it figured out man, the Chinese 24 pin extensions I has were bad so i took them off and plugged the 24 pin in directly.

Now I just need a new table, my current table is too short to fit the cosmos under it


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Almost done with the plumbing loops.... So stoked to finally have the rig up and running again, its been far too long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome, just burn dat corsair sticker


----------



## Nichismo

lol thanks, its actually a case badge that came with my PSU, its stuck on there pretty good. The other side has a noiseblocker badge that keeps falling off lol.

I need to decide on coolant colors. Im thinking pastel black for the CPU and mobo loop, and UV blue for the GPUs, im actually interested in getting my exterior panels powder coated in a dark metallic blue also. I also have a bottles of pastel red, pastel blue berry, and clear uv blue that I can use.


----------



## guitarhero23

When people add random single LED lights or really small strips in water blocks how are they power/where are they plugged in? I'm thinking about having a layer of acrylic behind my backplate which would have cutouts in it, if I put the light behind the acrylic so the color shines through the hole in the backplate.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thats cool. Stickers and badges on the case make it faster, as we all know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> When people add random single LED lights or really small strips in water blocks how are they power/where are they plugged in? I'm thinking about having a layer of acrylic behind my backplate which would have cutouts in it, if I put the light behind the acrylic so the color shines through the hole in the backplate.


If not molex then I guess two pin mobo connector or like a Bitspower LED power station?


----------



## electro2u

Fan connectors or 2 pin motherboard conn


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> When people add random single LED lights or really small strips in water blocks how are they power/where are they plugged in? I'm thinking about having a layer of acrylic behind my backplate which would have cutouts in it, if I put the light behind the acrylic so the color shines through the hole in the backplate.


I solder them to fan connectors and plug them into fan headers.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> I solder them to fan connectors and plug them into fan headers.


Any quick guides or references on how to properly do this? A simple illustration works if one exists online.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Any quick guides or references on how to properly do this? A simple illustration works if one exists online.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/250#post_23481457

it is easy actually if you have a solder. You just need to remember the correct wiring on the fan header (the central pin is 12 v - usually red - and the other one - usually black or white is the ground- with the other pin - usually yellow - been the rpm signal which is no use for the leds).



and on a PWM pinout and color scheme:



the pinout in the PWM relevant here (12 v and ground) is the same order in the 3 pin fan header with the added fourth pin.

EDIT - also pay attention to led specs and fan header on MB or Fan controller you will use. For small strips overload would not be a problem but you might have a problem with longer led stripes overloading the fan channel. So check specs always. Usually led stripes says XX w per meter, which at 12v will give you the amperage too.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/250#post_23481457
> 
> it is easy actually if you have a solder. You just need to remember the correct wiring on the fan header (the central pin is 12 v - usually red - and the other one - usually black or white is the ground- with the other pin - usually yellow - been the rpm signal which is no use for the leds).


Cool, anything that depicts exactly what is soldered to what? I know how to solder, just don't know the proper connections for something like this

haha I see you edited it with a depiction while I typed.


----------



## DarthBaggins

oooh







Would love to light up J.A.C., well once i get to the point of being able to. Still awaiting delivery on my GPU (DazMode) and Board blocks (PPC's, which USPS says it'll be here tomorrow







)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> oooh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to light up J.A.C., well once i get to the point of being able to. Still awaiting delivery on my GPU (DazMode) and Board blocks (PPC's)


took the idea from Dazmode dimmable led stripes but I guess a lot of folks have done this before. Connected the led stripes to the lamptron controller and I can now dim the lights. But honestly... Have been using the computer for weeks now and I leave all stripes at 100 % all the time







still was a fun mini-project to do.

edit - whatever you do folks just don't buy Bitfenix led stripes. Just don't. You will regret and waste your money.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Cool, anything that depicts exactly what is soldered to what? I know how to solder, just don't know the proper connections for something like this
> 
> haha I see you edited it with a depiction while I typed.


just be careful attaching LEDs to fan headers. Most LEDs take ~3V and fan headers put out 12V. So without adding a resistor to the LED, or having multiple LEDs in series, you will blow the LEDs


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> just be careful attaching LEDs to fan headers. Most LEDs take ~3V and fan headers put out 12V. So without adding a resistor to the LED, or having multiple LEDs in series, you will blow the LEDs


Yep. Check leds. Better to buy a DC 12 v led stripe to avoid the need of resistor and to be able to dim it.


----------



## electro2u

For single leds I use the bitspower x-station. It has 10 2-pin headers that are 12v for strips and 10 3v for singles.


----------



## Razroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Any quick guides or references on how to properly do this? A simple illustration works if one exists online.


Uhh.. look for the fan connector pinout? on a 3 pin connector, notch facing down, looking from the wires side, the center one would be ground, the left one being +12v.

So just solder your led strip with ground to middle, +12 to the left one.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

12V ones are out there, of course.

http://lighthouseleds.com/pre-wired-leds-1/12-volt-v-pre-wired-leds/12v-leds-5mm-pre-wired.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razroid*
> 
> Uhh.. look for the fan connector pinout? on a 3 pin connector, notch facing down, looking from the wires side, the center one would be ground, the left one being +12v.
> 
> So just solder your led strip with ground to middle, +12 to the left one.


no mate is the other way around. the central pin is 12 v. look at the pictures above.


----------



## charliebrown

has anyone ordered from aquatuning.us before are they any good need a alphacool acrylic d5 top they are the only ones that have it


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> has anyone ordered from aquatuning.us before are they any good need a alphacool acrylic d5 top they are the only ones that have it


I've ordered from aquatuning.us several times. As long as you don't have to send anything back they are great. Shipping back to Germany is not pleasant due to strange customs rules there.


----------



## Deano12345

Watercooling my GPU's was the best decision I've made in a long time (even if it hurt my wallet







)

Temps don't break 40 on load


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Ok, i found out why i was continually getting a leak from the reservoir. I have the res mounted to the back of case and it puts a little pressure on the res when i close the clasps that secure it. Apparently the threads cant handle that little pressure.
> 
> Only remedy for this is going to be to move the res to the HDD cages (900D case) and have the pump just sitting (maybe velcroed) to the plate the bottom hdd cage (removed) mounts too. Thatll remove any sideways pressure from the res.
> 
> I'll be needing a shorter reservoir for that so im just going to cave in and buy the second pump and dual pump top i was planning on adding in a few months anyway. Got a question about that though. The dual pump top will work with 2 D5s without anything else like like the bitspower mod kit for the pump body right?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-2d5topac-uvbl-dual-d5-mod-top-acrylic-version-uv-blue.html pump top
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-d5-mcp655-mod-kit-black-sparkle-finish.html mod kit


Not sure what pump you have but why not just get a bitspower res pump top kit. Around 50-70 dollars and have the pump mount to a bottom plate or get a ek bracket. Than you would need the clamps per say. Just an idea.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not sure what pump you have but why not just get a bitspower res pump top kit. Around 50-70 dollars and have the pump mount to a bottom plate or get a ek bracket. Than you would need the clamps per say. Just an idea.


Yeah i considered that idea but i really want the pump heads facing horizontal with the dual pump top so i can see the fluid and pumps spinning (clear dual top). I'm going to try that first with a male-male rotary connecting res to pump (the res will sit straight up on the pump and ill use 1 clamp (hdd cages only allow me to fit one without getting in the way of hdds) just to secure any other movement).

If it doesnt work i can always mount vertical as you suggest but im going to try my darndest to get the first way to work. I ordered UN 360 D5 mounts, hopefully itll fit under the top hdd cage in the 900D.

Went ahead with d5 mod kits too, wanted matte black but they were outa stock so i hadda settle with black sparkle. Hope it doesnt clash with my black/white theme too badly


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I've ordered from aquatuning.us several times. As long as you don't have to send anything back they are great. Shipping back to Germany is not pleasant due to strange customs rules there.[/quote/]
> 
> Was the price decent


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> lol thanks, its actually a case badge that came with my PSU, its stuck on there pretty good. The other side has a noiseblocker badge that keeps falling off lol.
> 
> I need to decide on coolant colors. Im thinking pastel black for the CPU and mobo loop, and UV blue for the GPUs, im actually interested in getting my exterior panels powder coated in a dark metallic blue also. I also have a bottles of pastel red, pastel blue berry, and clear uv blue that I can use.


I wouldn't sweat the small stuff like a case badge. But should you wish to remove any offender, you can dribble some "Goo Off" at the top or heat it up with a hair drier and use your fingers to work it off.

But imho, I would leave it if you're still using Corsair system products. Like RAM, PSU, SSD etc.









~Ceadder


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> has anyone ordered from aquatuning.us before are they any good need a alphacool acrylic d5 top they are the only ones that have it


I have a few times. Something you need to pay attention to is the shipping though. It can be really expensive unless you spend a certain mount IIRC. But they are extremely fast considering it had to go through both their customs and ours. I'd recommend them if you can't located what you are looking for in your region.


----------



## KuuFA

So I am using Mayhems pastel red coolant and for about a week now I still get bubbles on the lowest part of my loop I have been putting pressure on the tubes to get the bubbles out but they still occur. Any Idea what they could be? (There are no bubbles anywhere else and I have a D5 pump setting to 4.5, Increasing doesn't help).


Spoiler: Some PIcs




^The lower most red tubing going Into the reservoir


^Said Bubbles


----------



## electro2u

Is that lower most tube actually connected to the inlet of the res? Or is that actually the outlet?
That compression fitting on that reservoir port does not look happy.

I mean, it looks like the bubbles you get when the pump is sucking in air. Is it noisy?

Can you add more coolant and fill up the reservoir completely?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> has anyone ordered from aquatuning.us before are they any good need a alphacool acrylic d5 top they are the only ones that have it
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few times. Something you need to pay attention to is the shipping though. It can be really expensive unless you spend a certain mount IIRC. But they are extremely fast considering it had to go through both their customs and ours. I'd recommend them if you can't located what you are looking for in your region.
Click to expand...

I don't know what Aquatuning charges for an order less than $75 but for orders over that shipping is $8 for 2-3 day shipping or $12 for 1-2 day shipping, and I don't even know how they manage it from Germany to the middle-of-nowhere USA that fast for that price but they have on every order I've placed with them. It's crazy. I've never had faster domestic shipping much less international. They do have a "_Sales Tax 8.05% & Canadian customs fee_" that they slip in there on top of that, which is weird for an order shipped to the US, but even if you factor that in their shipping costs less than what I'd have paid PPCs or FCPU and it would have taken days longer to get here.

I've been well over 2 years now on my first year of Amazon Prime because Amazon can't manage to get their Prime orders to me in their 2-day guarantee and every time they miss it they have to give me a free month extension of my Amazon Prime membership. Heck, they've been late twice in just the past week (one Prime order FedEx took 5 business days to get here) and that earned me two one month extensions. At this rate I'll be an Amazon Prime member for life and never have to renew my membership.


----------



## charliebrown

It just took amazon 8 days to get my 900d form In to Mi that's 4 hours its in route to me now bought it on the 20th *** I guess when your shipping is free and not prime they don't care

so..... waited 8 days for my case only for it to be damaged when it get here im pissed


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> It just took amazon 8 days to get my 900d form In to Mi that's 4 hours its in route to me now bought it on the 20th *** I guess when your shipping is free and not prime they don't care
> 
> so..... waited 8 days for my case only for it to be damaged when it get here im pissed


When I first started building last year around June... I ordered about 85% of my items and parts from Amazon. I would get them in Two days. It would ship out the day of order and I seriously thought they mixed me up with someone who was on Prime.

Now almost a year later... I get them in just around the same as Mr Charlie Brown. 8 days +

The Cautious One


----------



## DarthBaggins

still waiting on my block from DazMode


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what Aquatuning charges for an order less than $75 but for orders over that shipping is $8 for 2-3 day shipping or $12 for 1-2 day shipping, and I don't even know how they manage it from Germany to the middle-of-nowhere USA that fast for that price but they have on every order I've placed with them. It's crazy. I've never had faster domestic shipping much less international. They do have a "_Sales Tax 8.05% & Canadian customs fee_" that they slip in there on top of that, which is weird for an order shipped to the US, but even if you factor that in their shipping costs less than what I'd have paid PPCs or FCPU and it would have taken days longer to get here.
> 
> I've been well over 2 years now on my first year of Amazon Prime because Amazon can't manage to get their Prime orders to me in their *2-day guarantee and every time they miss it they have to give me a free month extension of my Amazon Prime membership*. Heck, they've been late twice in just the past week (one Prime order FedEx took 5 business days to get here) and that earned me two one month extensions. At this rate I'll be an Amazon Prime member for life and never have to renew my membership.


That will teach me about not reading the fine print. I think in two years of prime my package has come on time twice. My most recent order was even late by a day. Looks like time to start collecting those add on months!

Regarding Aquatuning, I have had similar results as Unicr0nhunter, crazy fast, inexpensive shipping.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't know what Aquatuning charges for an order less than $75 but for orders over that shipping is $8 for 2-3 day shipping or $12 for 1-2 day shipping, and I don't even know how they manage it from Germany to the middle-of-nowhere USA that fast for that price but they have on every order I've placed with them. It's crazy. I've never had faster domestic shipping much less international. They do have a "_Sales Tax 8.05% & Canadian customs fee_" that they slip in there on top of that, which is weird for an order shipped to the US, but even if you factor that in their shipping costs less than what I'd have paid PPCs or FCPU and it would have taken days longer to get here.
> 
> I've been well over 2 years now on my first year of Amazon Prime because Amazon can't manage to get their Prime orders to me in their 2-day guarantee and every time they miss it they have to give me a free month extension of my Amazon Prime membership. Heck, they've been late twice in just the past week (one Prime order FedEx took 5 business days to get here) and that earned me two one month extensions. At this rate I'll be an Amazon Prime member for life and never have to renew my membership.


have you considered ordering a crapload of random stuff (such as these $1.50 decorative notebooks) just to rack up some free Prime months?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Can't believe that aquatuning actually open in Brazil. It is just a recent development. The horrible part is that they only carry Alphacool and Phobya products for now and the price is just absurd. An d5 top acrylic with pump included US$ 195. Oh well, at least they care to open and with time who known they might expand the offerings.

On a more pictorial note here is the visual color test of the GT AP15 prototype within the system in the frontal rad. Compare to the original Phanteks black and white. I like it. Just need to design a good replacement stickers to go with it:


----------



## charliebrown

my dumb self was on the german site not the us/canada one lol im like why you charging me vat went to the other one and im like wow i just spent all that money at ppcs and it shipped already got a acetal top res and a acrylic top res already so im thinking i should get a acetal pump top since im doing two loops anyway with 2 color fluid i think that might look nice


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Can't believe that aquatuning actually open in Brazil. It is just a recent development. The horrible part is that they only carry Alphacool and Phobya products for now and the price is just absurd. An d5 top acrylic with pump included US$ 195. Oh well, at least they care to open and with time who known they might expand the offerings.
> 
> On a more pictorial note here is the visual color test of the GT AP15 prototype within the system in the frontal rad. Compare to the original Phanteks black and white. I like it. Just need to design a good replacement stickers to go with it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OMG where did you get those fans...


----------



## Gleniu

My 970's are finally ready to go under water


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> OMG where did you get those fans...


the phanteks or the GTs? The GTs are regular AP15 I got almost 2 years ago from FZCPU and I painted it. The phanteks ones are end of life and difficult to find anywhere in stock. I am in the process of replacing the Phanteks ones with GTs painted


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the phanteks or the GTs? The GTs are regular AP15 I got almost 2 years ago from FZCPU and I painted it. The phanteks ones are end of life and difficult to find anywhere in stock. I am in the process of replacing the Phanteks ones with GTs painted


Ah paint. I take it the AP 15S are easy(ier) to disassemble? That's my issue with painting fans.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Ah paint. I take it the AP 15S are easy(ier) to disassemble? That's my issue with painting fans.


They are. It certainly takes time and patience to paint it. There are good guides around here in ocn for GTs.

Fans in general:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1192785/simple-guide-how-to-paint-most-case-fans

GTs
http://www.overclock.net/t/696331/120mm-gentle-typhoon-vinyl-dye-project

notice however that whole PCB can come off quite easily. You can follow the process in my chessboard build log too.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/330#post_23567516


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Can't believe that aquatuning actually open in Brazil. It is just a recent development. The horrible part is that they only carry Alphacool and Phobya products for now and the price is just absurd. An d5 top acrylic with pump included US$ 195. Oh well, at least they care to open and with time who known they might expand the offerings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> On a more pictorial note here is the visual color test of the GT AP15 prototype within the system in the frontal rad. Compare to the original Phanteks black and white. I like it. Just need to design a good replacement stickers to go with it:


Well, Aquatuning is the parent company of Alphacool & Phobya. They don't typically carry all that much of other manufacturer's stuff. I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for them to get whatever other stuff you are hoping they'll carry.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Ah paint. I take it the AP 15S are easy(ier) to disassemble? That's my issue with painting fans.
> 
> 
> 
> They are. It certainly takes time and patience to paint it. There are good guides around here in ocn for GTs.
> 
> Fans in general:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1192785/simple-guide-how-to-paint-most-case-fans
> 
> GTs
> http://www.overclock.net/t/696331/120mm-gentle-typhoon-vinyl-dye-project
> 
> notice however that whole PCB can come off quite easily. You can follow the process in my chessboard build log too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/330#post_23567516
Click to expand...

Painting / Dying the blades on Gentle Typhoons is MUCH easier than that. Just ask Lowfat. He figured out the easiest way to get the blades off/on. The dye method he used only works when going to a darker color like the black he did though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Dying the blades is ridiculously easy. Heat the hub w/ a heatgun for 30 seconds. Blades should pull off rather easy. Drop in to a dye bath. I used Pro Chemical dye + dye carrier. Remove after about 15 minutes. Push blades back on to hub.
> 
> Blades look like this afterward.


On that note, that mod Lowfat did cutting away all but the back part of the fan and mounting them on the bottom-side of 140mm adapters, so they are a bit recessed into the rad, is one of the coolest looking mods I've ever seen done.


----------



## electro2u

Goodness gracious. That GT mod is absolutely great.

Are Vardars easy to disassemble?


----------



## wermad

Fans galore!

Here are some additions to my new rig:


----------



## fleetfeather

just add the Corsair sticker in the middle....


----------



## wermad

lol

Maybe two of these in p/p




GE GE90-115B


----------



## fleetfeather

still not enough static pressure for those 60FPI Black Ice GTS rads tho


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, Aquatuning is the parent company of Alphacool & Phobya. They don't typically carry all that much of other manufacturer's stuff. I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for them to get whatever other stuff you are hoping they'll carry.
> Painting / Dying the blades on Gentle Typhoons is MUCH easier than that. Just ask Lowfat. He figured out the easiest way to get the blades off/on. The dye method he used only works when going to a darker color like the black he did though.
> On that note, that mod Lowfat did cutting away all but the back part of the fan and mounting them on the bottom-side of 140mm adapters, so they are a bit recessed into the rad, is one of the coolest looking mods I've ever seen done.


Yeah I saw that one and looks really cool. If I recall it is a bitspower fan adapter serving as frame for the GTs. I will gladly hear any tip or better way to do this so if @lowfat could point me to the right direction will be much appreciated. In any case since I have to paint the frame in white I need to take all parts out including the pcb so not sure what you meant by much easier but I am all ears.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah I saw that one and looks really cool. If I recall it is a bitspower fan adapter serving as frame for the GTs. I will gladly hear any tip or better way to do this so if @lowfat could point me to the right direction will be much appreciated. In any case since I have to paint the frame in white I need to take all parts out including the pcb so not sure what you meant but a lot easier but I am all ears.


Once you have the blades off, you could just mask off the hub and paint rather easily.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Once you have the blades off, you could just mask off the hub and paint rather easily.


that's what I am doing. I research a bit about dye since the blades are in black but didn't found any black dye for plastic down here. Just a regular dye for paint or need to be an special dye for plastic? Do you have previous posts showing how you did it?

thanks in advance









example of one unit ready for paint (still have to sand it down a bit)


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Is that lower most tube actually connected to the inlet of the res? Or is that actually the outlet?
> That compression fitting on that reservoir port does not look happy.
> 
> I mean, it looks like the bubbles you get when the pump is sucking in air. Is it noisy?
> 
> Can you add more coolant and fill up the reservoir completely?


Yup that port is the inlet port.

The pump isn't sucking in air. I mean if it was wouldn't the air bubbles be everywhere? or in the outlet tube?

Completely filled it up and it's still about the same. But ill let it sit a few more days to see.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Yup that port is the inlet port.
> 
> The pump isn't sucking in air. I mean if it was wouldn't the air bubbles be everywhere? or in the outlet tube?
> 
> Completely filled it up and it's still about the same. But ill let it sit a few more days to see.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


It may be the 90 degree fitting on the inlet to the reservoir. There could be an air pocket in the bend. This can cause the liquid to slow down on the intake.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> They are. It certainly takes time and patience to paint it. There are good guides around here in ocn for GTs.
> 
> Fans in general:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1192785/simple-guide-how-to-paint-most-case-fans
> 
> GTs
> http://www.overclock.net/t/696331/120mm-gentle-typhoon-vinyl-dye-project
> 
> notice however that whole PCB can come off quite easily. You can follow the process in my chessboard build log too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/330#post_23567516


+Rep thank you sir


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/f04sP86dj

This is just the stuff installed in the case quickly, i've still got a lot to do.

Use 45's for the gpu to cpu run to make it straight and keep more in line with the rest of the runs and aslo waiting for Pexon cables for psu, sort out lighting in res and make ALL the cables tidy.

I'm trying to go for the rigid tubing look but with flexible tubing.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/f04sP86dj
> 
> 
> 
> This is just the stuff installed in the case quickly, i've still got a lot to do.
> 
> Use 45's for the gpu to cpu run to make it straight and keep more in line with the rest of the runs and aslo waiting for Pexon cables for psu, sort out lighting in res and make ALL the cables tidy.
> 
> I'm trying to go for the rigid tubing look but with flexible tubing.


I read this as "im trying to get the flexible tubing look with rigid tubing" and i was so confused as to why the heck you woukd do that


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah I saw that one and looks really cool. If I recall it is a bitspower fan adapter serving as frame for the GTs. I will gladly hear any tip or better way to do this so if @lowfat could point me to the right direction will be much appreciated. In any case since I have to paint the frame in white I need to take all parts out including the pcb so not sure what you meant by much easier but I am all ears.


Is it just me or does anyone else like the looks and performance of the nb eloops? I think they are about the same price and I just love the design of the noiseblockers. I will say that since fcpu closed hey are darn near impossible to get ahold of though.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Is it just me or does anyone else like the looks and performance of the nb eloops? I think they are about the same price and I just love the design of the noiseblockers. I will say that since fcpu closed hey are darn near impossible to get ahold of though.


NB eLoops are great fans at both performance and look. I am currently using Blacksilent PRO PL2 in my rig on an Alphacool ST30 140mm rad and a Monsta 240mm rad. Also great performers. I still wish I hadn't ended up selling/trading my AP15s though. Originally I was going to use them for the Monsta. No regrets though, the NBs perform perfectly since they are hooked up to my Aquaero 6 XT (a good fan/pump controller can make all the difference).


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> NB eLoops are great fans at both performance and look. I am currently using Blacksilent PRO PL2 in my rig on an Alphacool ST30 140mm rad and a Monsta 240mm rad. Also great performers. I still wish I hadn't ended up selling/trading my AP15s though. Originally I was going to use them for the Monsta. No regrets though, the NBs perform perfectly since they are hooked up to my Aquaero 6 XT (a good fan/pump controller can make all the difference).


Yeah I liked my ap-15$ too...until I got my eloops lol. I was actually about to buy an aquero for my new build but then I found someone selling a gtx 690 for 240. So I got that to add a second one to my main rig lol. Got my waterblock and ek serial sli bridge on there way too so I'll be running quad sli in about a week when it all arrives!! But I will still need to get an aquero soon because for some reason my asus crosshair v formula z mobo is absolutely horrible at controlling my fans and I'm just don't with dealing with it.

Was thinking about just getting a cheap fan controller but decided that with the aquero I'd be able to monitor and control alot more than just the fans and that's something I'd like to be able to do. Btw can you get temp probes for the aquero I want to be able to monitor the temps of my ram, cpu and mobo as I hear that programs have a hard time giving a curate temps in amd machines for some reason...


----------



## wermad

I already have a bunch of corsair's, so I might as well stick w/ them


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Yeah I liked my ap-15$ too...until I got my eloops lol. I was actually about to buy an aquero for my new build but then I found someone selling a gtx 690 for 240. So I got that to add a second one to my main rig lol. Got my waterblock and ek serial sli bridge on there way too so I'll be running quad sli in about a week when it all arrives!! But I will still need to get an aquero soon because for some reason my asus crosshair v formula z mobo is absolutely horrible at controlling my fans and I'm just don't with dealing with it.
> 
> Was thinking about just getting a cheap fan controller but decided that with the aquero I'd be able to monitor and control alot more than just the fans and that's something I'd like to be able to do. Btw can you get temp probes for the aquero I want to be able to monitor the temps of my ram, cpu and mobo as I hear that programs have a hard time giving a curate temps in amd machines for some reason...


I can't praise the Aquaero enough! It has been awesome in my rig. I do [email protected] quite often and game on ultra settings so I'll hear my fans cranking steadily upward as the Aquaero reads the custom curve I have set per the loops temperature. The included software takes some getting used to but @Shoggy from Aquacomputer and the great people over in the OCN Aquaero Owners Club can help you with any questions. I've certainly picked their brains a lot.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I can't praise the Aquaero enough! It has been awesome in my rig. I do [email protected] quite often and game on ultra settings so I'll hear my fans cranking steadily upward as the Aquaero reads the custom curve I have set per the loops temperature. The included software takes some getting used to but @Shoggy from Aquacomputer and the great people over in the OCN Aquaero Owners Club can help you with any questions. I've certainly picked their brains a lot.


Cool thst makes me feel alot better about spending the money on it. My buddy's got a 5 he will sell me with the aquero waterblock for 90 but I'm thinking I don't want to have to watercool my fan controller...but if I have a fan controller I will deffinatly have to hook it up. I've got my ram watercooled right now, speaking of stupid waterblocks..

do you have any pics of your rig?, I'd love to see them!


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I already have a bunch of corsair's, so I might as well stick w/ them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are those metal cages for?I saw them for sale on ppcs today but didn't click on them to really find out what they were for.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Cool thst makes me feel alot better about spending the money on it. *My buddy's got a 5 he will sell me with the aquero waterblock for 90* but I'm thinking I don't want to have to watercool my fan controller...but if I have a fan controller I will deffinatly have to hook it up. I've got my ram watercooled right now, speaking of stupid waterblocks..
> 
> do you have any pics of your rig?, I'd love to see them!


That's a great deal but for a lot of people putting an Aquaero under water isn't necessary. Though I do recommend at least installing a heatsink on it if you choose not to water cool it.

I really need to bust out one of my cameras to take some updated pics. It's a heavily modded Corsair Obsidian 550D. I'm quite ashamed of these pics haha.









Spoiler: Guts as seen from the custom window









Spoiler: Front view of Aquaero under EK dual-DDC pump/res combo







Here's the LINK for the build log that I haven't updated in quite some time.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That's a great deal but for a lot of people putting an Aquaero under water isn't necessary. Though I do recommend at least installing a heatsink on it if you choose not to water cool it.
> 
> I really need to bust out one of my cameras to take some updated pics. It's a heavily modded Corsair Obsidian 550D. I'm quite ashamed of these pics haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Guts as seen from the custom window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Front view of Aquaero under EK dual-DDC pump/res combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the LINK for the build log that I haven't updated in quite some time.


For the AQ6 the waterblock does not make much sense. But for the 5 series might be a good thing if you are running several fans at lower speeds. I have an aq6 and aq5 lt, the lt with waterblock and aq 6 with the heatsink. Fan controller temp on the aq5 is around 30 C (without the block and only with the passive heatsink could easily reach 60 or 70 C). A6 stays at 35 C.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> For the AQ6 the waterblock does not make much sense. But for the 5 series might be a good thing if you are running several fans at lower speeds. I have an aq6 and aq5 lt, the lt with waterblock and aq 6 with the heatsink. Fan controller temp on the aq5 is around 30 C (without the block and only with the passive heatsink could easily reach 60 or 70 C). A6 stays at 35 C.


@jesusnadinosaur, Gabrielzm is an excellent source for anything related to the Aquaero.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @jesusnadinosaur, Gabrielzm is an excellent source for anything related to the Aquaero.


Thanks I'll deffinatly be getting ahold of him!!


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> For the AQ6 the waterblock does not make much sense. But for the 5 series might be a good thing if you are running several fans at lower speeds. I have an aq6 and aq5 lt, the lt with waterblock and aq 6 with the heatsink. Fan controller temp on the aq5 is around 30 C (without the block and only with the passive heatsink could easily reach 60 or 70 C). A6 stays at 35 C.


Yeah its a 5 and that's what I'm afraid of I don't need something getting that hot inside my rig!!


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That's a great deal but for a lot of people putting an Aquaero under water isn't necessary. Though I do recommend at least installing a heatsink on it if you choose not to water cool it.
> 
> I really need to bust out one of my cameras to take some updated pics. It's a heavily modded Corsair Obsidian 550D. I'm quite ashamed of these pics haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Guts as seen from the custom window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Front view of Aquaero under EK dual-DDC pump/res combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the LINK for the build log that I haven't updated in quite some time.


Here's some pics of my latest two builds. Now the i7 systems going to be looking a whole lot better once my new tubing and 90s arrive(first pic) I'm going to be cleaning up all those sloppy runs. And the green machine is almost done just waiting for the rest of my parts and drill bits to arrive so I can hide my pump under the carbon fiber psu shroud!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What are those metal cages for?I saw them for sale on ppcs today but didn't click on them to really find out what they were for.


The shrouds? Just to hold me fans for a case. Going to use these for a TT X9.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The shrouds? Just to hold me fans for a case. Going to use these for a TT X9.


Super jelous!! I was going to buy one of those but realized that if I did I'd have to buy 3 or 4 480mm rads and my wallet can't handle that right now. I tld a few friends about the case though and one of them bought one and absolutely loves it! Have you gotten yours yet and or have any pics?


----------



## wermad

It's on its way. Eta Tuesday and I is excited







. I currently have three Monsta 480s in my 900D. With the shrouds, I can go push/pull for the top. The bottom will have a side mounted Monsta with p/p.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It's on its way. Eta Tuesday and I is excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I currently have three Monsta 480s in my 900D. With the shrouds, I can go push/pull for the top. The bottom will have a side mounted Monsta with p/p.


Alphacool may have some QC issues, such as never cleaning out their rads before shipping, or the collar that the fitting threads into just snapping off and leaking all over (yeah, that happened to me







), HOWEVER, I really like how efficient my Monsta is. I have an ST30 240mm, an ST30 140mm, and my Monsta 240mm all cooling an OC'd 3770k and 2 OC'd 780 Ti SCs and my system stays so nice and cool. My cards never reach over 40c and on average sit at around 38 under load. Crap QC but great cooling capability.


----------



## wermad

I've owned six Monsta 480s, three Monsta 360s, st30 240, two ut60 560, two ut60 280s, and one ut60 420 and I've never had issues.

There's no perfect manufacturer.i was pretty taking back on the quality of Aquacomouter and how a few of my BP fittings are stuck ($20 rotary fittings







). And don't get me started on the multiple Ek nickel blocks that failed in the past.

I do love my AC res though lacking in the mounting system, it's a real gem. Thinking of getting the d5 top combo. ..


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Some pics of one of the Towers I've built so far there's another one in the works as well this one has some minor updates to it still some lighting etc but you can see! CPU/GPU are RGB


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Alphacool may have some QC issues, such as never cleaning out their rads before shipping, or the collar that the fitting threads into just snapping off and leaking all over (yeah, that happened to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), HOWEVER, I really like how efficient my Monsta is. I have an ST30 240mm, an ST30 140mm, and my Monsta 240mm all cooling an OC'd 3770k and 2 OC'd 780 Ti SCs and my system stays so nice and cool. My cards never reach over 40c and on average sit at around 38 under load. Crap QC but great cooling capability.


I know this doesn't have to do with monsta rads or anything but I just upgraded my ax360 (supposed to be xspc top of the line) to a hw labs sr2 and I'm seeing a 10c improvement!!

And since we are talking about alphacool I just have to say how happy I am with my aphacool ddc310 pump, that thing has some power for bieng so small and it's dead silent, and I mean that with no fans spinning or anything else I can't hear any noise comming from the pump. And according to my flow meter it's pushing the water faster than my d5! I payed 60 bucks for the ddc and double that for my d5.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some pics of one of the Towers I've built so far there's another one in the works as well this one has some minor updates to it still some lighting etc but you can see!


Looks like the ocn image uploader strikes again (flipping pictures...







)

How good are those Enermax' at moving air through rads?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Jesusnadinosaur....for the love of God,edit your posts rather than multiple posting.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like the ocn image uploader strikes again (flipping pictures...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> How good are those Enermax' at moving air through rads?


I fixed the flopping anyway I have them running @ 500rpm and they move air fine through the AMS Radiators. I can put my hand on the other side and I will feel the air coming through.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Cool thst makes me feel alot better about spending the money on it. My buddy's got a 5 he will sell me with the aquero waterblock for 90 but I'm thinking I don't want to have to watercool my fan controller...but if I have a fan controller I will deffinatly have to hook it up. I've got my ram watercooled right now, speaking of stupid waterblocks..
> 
> do you have any pics of your rig?, I'd love to see them!


Hey, if you dont need the block for the LT, I'm in the market for another one.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey, if you dont need the block for the LT, I'm in the market for another one.


Well if indo end up getting the used 5 I'll be using the waterblock I hear they can get pretty hot and I font want to worry about breaking my new toy lol.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jesusnadinosaur....for the love of God,edit your posts rather than multiple posting.


Poor jesusnad. Getting yelled at on Reddit for posting too many updates on rig and here lol.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It's on its way. Eta Tuesday and I is excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I currently have three Monsta 480s in my 900D. With the shrouds, I can go push/pull for the top. The bottom will have a side mounted Monsta with p/p.
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool may have some QC issues, such as never cleaning out their rads before shipping, or the collar that the fitting threads into just snapping off and leaking all over (yeah, that happened to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), HOWEVER, I really like how efficient my Monsta is. I have an ST30 240mm, an ST30 140mm, and my Monsta 240mm all cooling an OC'd 3770k and 2 OC'd 780 Ti SCs and my system stays so nice and cool. My cards never reach over 40c and on average sit at around 38 under load. Crap QC but great cooling capability.
Click to expand...

It never ceases to amaze me (the AlphaCool issues ) that people seem to have. I have used more NexXxos XT series than I can remember to count and never had a problem as well as getting far and away the best results.

I am not taking shots at anyone here, just an observation and curiosity.

hey Wer







how ya been?

Looks like you are back on track









Greg


----------



## dansi

I bought Phobya, which i think is some sister company to Alphacool targeting the higher end users.

I think they have better QC than Alphacool coz' their G-Changer V2 rads are very clean and well packed and of very solid quality. Easily better built material than EKWB imo.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've owned six Monsta 480s, three Monsta 360s, st30 240, two ut60 560, two ut60 280s, and one ut60 420 and I've never had issues.


Yes, well, I am fan of the brand both design and performance-wise too but the _alphastool_ nick is well-deserved.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jesusnadinosaur....for the love of God,edit your posts rather than multiple posting.


Thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Poor jesusnad. Getting yelled at on Reddit for posting too many updates on rig and here lol.


LOL yes his enthusiasm for the hobby is nice and appreciated but he needs to settle down a bit. _Take a deep breath and hit edit, bro..._


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've owned six Monsta 480s, three Monsta 360s, st30 240, two ut60 560, two ut60 280s, and one ut60 420 and I've never had issues.
> 
> 
> 
> I have had the same experience with Alpha
> 
> Yes, well, I am fan of the brand both design and performance-wise too but the alphastool nick is well-deserved.
> 
> That is not cool, ans a bit puerile
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jesusnadinosaur....for the love of God,edit your posts rather than multiple posting.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Poor jesusnad. Getting yelled at on Reddit for posting too many updates on rig and here lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> LOL yes his enthusiasm for the hobby is nice and appreciated but he needs to settle down a bit. Take a deep breath and hit edit, bro...
Click to expand...

anyway, I have actually been inside the NexXxos rads, and the quality is stellar

 Red1776

 Red1776

 Red1776

Not going to pursuit or propagate an argument, so I will just leave it there.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes, well, I am fan of the brand both design and performance-wise too but the _alphastool_ nick is well-deserved.
> Thanks.
> LOL yes his enthusiasm for the hobby is nice and appreciated but he needs to settle down a bit. _Take a deep breath and hit edit, bro..._


i hear many people saying bad things about alphacool like: its not a good performer,its crapy etc .but in the tests it gives more performance than other many radiator brands .How about this?
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've owned six Monsta 480s, three Monsta 360s, st30 240, two ut60 560, two ut60 280s, and one ut60 420 and I've never had issues.
> 
> 
> 
> I have had the same experience with Alpha
> 
> Yes, well, I am fan of the brand both design and performance-wise too but the _alphastool_ nick is well-deserved.
> 
> That is not cool, ans a bit puerile
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jesusnadinosaur....for the love of God,edit your posts rather than multiple posting.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Poor jesusnad. Getting yelled at on Reddit for posting too many updates on rig and here lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> LOL yes his enthusiasm for the hobby is nice and appreciated but he needs to settle down a bit. _Take a deep breath and hit edit, bro..._
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> anyway, I have actually been inside the NexXxos rads, and the quality is stellar
> 
> 
> Red1776
> 
> 
> Red1776
> 
> 
> Red1776
> 
> Not going to pursuit or propagate an argument, so I will just leave it there.
Click to expand...

Looking in the port is hardly going inside.....

This thread is littered with poor quality Alphastool products,bent up rads,solder balls in the tubes,ports that wring off.....and not forgetting the manufacturing crap in them.

This is not speculation,this is fact as displayed in this thread,while you may have a couple of good examples,there are many more that dont. Even the ones PARVUM got for a build had wonky stickers on them.....


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Heh and I was only talking about teh flux and crap; out of the box. They are obviously _generally_ good manufacturing quality or the performance would be much poorer.


----------



## mr one

Why its so hard to find even used apogge drive ( the first one edition). It looks like they extincted even used ones in europe


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> It never ceases to amaze me (the AlphaCool issues ) that people seem to have. I have used more NexXxos XT series than I can remember to count and never had a problem as well as getting far and away the best results.
> I am not taking shots at anyone here, just an observation and curiosity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hey Wer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how ya been?
> Looks like you are back on track
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg


Hectic! (lol), going through a bunch of changes at every corner. Hoping the case is the last piece for now







. Ended up w/ the new TT X9 just for the horizontal layout and it was inexpensive. I don't expect uber levels of quality, but it looks like a good box and it can hold a bunch of rads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Why its so hard to find even used apogge drive ( the first one edition). It looks like they extincted even used ones in europe


I've seen a few used one's in the market. Why not ask if they can ship to Europe?


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hectic! (lol), going through a bunch of changes at every corner. Hoping the case is the last piece for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ended up w/ the new TT X9 just for the horizontal layout and it was inexpensive. I don't expect uber levels of quality, but it looks like a good box and it can hold a bunch of rads.
> I've seen a few used one's in the market. Why not ask if they can ship to Europe?


Kinda big shipping costs


----------



## wermad

You'd be surprised. IF you can keep it under 2kg, you can ship it via usps first class. I don't really recommend this as you run the risk of getting it lost and it takes quite a bit of time but its cheap.

~$20 usd for uk/france/germany/denmark/italy etc.

http://ircalc.usps.com/Default.aspx?country=10212&m=0&dpb=0&mdt=2015/03/02%2008:00


----------



## mr one

And looked now again at marketplace and there is one with mark pending







so no good luck for me







or get a kit like alphacool 240 with their small pump or try to get a eisberg?


----------



## wermad

Pending doesn't mean sold yet, and it won't hurt to ask. I generally tend not to mark things pending until I have the funds. how about that new swfitech pump? getting some buzz but no accessories like ddc and d5


----------



## Anateus




----------



## wermad

How do you like the photon res/pump combo? Clean build btw


----------



## snef

Finals pics


----------



## wermad




----------



## XKaan

@Snef

Amazing work - respect.


----------



## electro2u

Crazy


----------



## USMC Modder

That is just sexy as hell @snef


----------



## Gilles3000




----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Wow snef.... **starts slow clap**


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How do you like the photon res/pump combo? Clean build btw


Love it. Good looking and its really quiet. I mean it. Even at 5.


----------



## Ceadderman

Absolutely Gobsmackingly beautiful setup.









Excellent work snef!









~Ceadder


----------



## snef

Thanks guys

really appreciate


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Finals pics
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


love your style snef









im inspired


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pending doesn't mean sold yet, and it won't hurt to ask. I generally tend not to mark things pending until I have the funds. how about that new swfitech pump? getting some buzz but no accessories like ddc and d5


What new swiftech pump?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Finals pics
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Please senf let me know how u achieved that blue.. is this blueberry pastel + dye? i want that color .. and i can't easily buy stuff to try.. i've asked about that color in mayhems.. but i got no answer


----------



## Razroid

AYE I'm back again









My rig is finally complete on the hardware side, some overclocking to do and many games to download











Sorry for the terrible image, the Xperia Z1 is terrible in low light and I don't have money for a proper camera T.T

Anyway, I'm currently running distilled with a slight overdose of concentrated benzalkonium chloride, I'm thinking of adding dye, suggestions? I heard red dye tends to stain blocks, what about black?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Finals pics


There are nitpicky things I could go on about with the component choices but it looks a little too good for me to do that.


----------



## szeged

Looks familiar


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> What new swiftech pump?


Our MCP50X.


----------



## fleetfeather

I wonder if BNeg will like Snef's new colour scheme









looks great


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Love it. Good looking and its really quiet. I mean it. Even at 5.


Cool







Its one of the reservoirs on my backup list in case if the new case doesn't work with my current res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> What new swiftech pump?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our MCP50X.
Click to expand...

This


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Looks familiar


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I wonder if BNeg will like Snef's new colour scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great


Im not rising to it......


----------



## gr3nd3l

Snef that build is just


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Love it. Good looking and its really quiet. I mean it. Even at 5.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its one of the reservoirs on my backup list in case if the new case doesn't work with my current res.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> What new swiftech pump?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our MCP50X.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This
Click to expand...

Hey Wer,

almost forgot. I got one more sponsor...Microcenter. They donated a 4K 60Hz Monitor to the AMD HPP,



Thats it sitting atop the A10 7850 Build for the AMD HPP. now I am benching 4K and my 5760 x 1080 Eyefinity setup.

I have a lot of work to do now that I am out of the Hospital. Going to surprise a lot of people with what the AMD can do.


----------



## wermad

Nice


----------



## darwing

Tiny update ?

The sli bridge is in and have decided to stay with distiller water. The Mayhems black just wasn't the deep enough black I was looking for as well it made the case look darker and not as open.

I also did a custom mod to the gpu blocks that will be in my last video, as well did a mod to the back 140mm fan mounting in order to get it flush to the case and positioned below a fitting.

Still waiting on lee Harrington to finish the sleeving and send me the custom cables I ordered, then will post professional pics and benchmarks and the finished product ???

Please can you vote for me for the March mod of the month ☺☺☺


----------



## szeged

Getting some new rads, decided on hwlabs either their sr2 series or gtx nemesis, Anyone know which performs better with ap-15s? Also anywhere to get non dark matter nemesis rads in the USA?


----------



## VSG

Nemesis GTX is my recommendation, and it does come in a few different colors now too via PPC. But if you really want a plain matte finish, I am pretty sure that the SR2 is your only bet within the US as far as the newer HWLabs rads go.


----------



## szeged

Can't find any 480 nemesis rads in dark matter black on ppcs, am I missing it? On mobile till tomorrow night so it's hard to search







I don't mind the dark matter finish but would prefer non lol. Are the performance differences noticeable between the sr2 and nemesis?


----------



## Anoxy

Anyone want to make a part order from Aquatuning.us and can include two small items for me? I will re-imburse via Paypal. I just don't need anything more than Mayhem's X1 and a single fitting, which leaves me $57 short of the minimum order









They are the only ones who have the fitting in stock, save for FrozenCPU but they're closed now it seems.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Can't find any 480 nemesis rads in dark matter black on ppcs, am I missing it? On mobile till tomorrow night so it's hard to search
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't mind the dark matter finish but would prefer non lol. Are the performance differences noticeable between the sr2 and nemesis?


The Nemesis GTX scales much better with airflow through it, and I feel with the AP15s you have it will come in handy when benching. I would email PPC and see what they got, and if they can get you a matte finish version in their next order maybe?


----------



## szeged

Might do that but ppcs usually likes to say no to anything that isn't hugely profitable for them =/ whatever lol.

So nemesis for 1800+ rpm fans eh?


----------



## ubbb69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Might do that but ppcs usually likes to say no to anything that isn't hugely profitable for them =/ whatever lol.
> 
> So nemesis for 1800+ rpm fans eh?


You are going to have at least 12 fans spinning that fast in your core case? Hope you wear headphones.


----------



## Poisoner

Here is a picture from my second custom loop.



And here on the first loop I had running before I got the CPU block in.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ramp those fans back with a decent FC to above 1200 an you won't even notice them.









Mebbe it's just me; but don't you just hate being in the middle of a build and having inspirational epiphanies about your next Mod and you ain't truly made a dent in the one you're laboring on? Well all I can say is I can't wait cause the next seed is planted and working its way into my subconsciousness.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Getting some new rads, decided on hwlabs either their sr2 series or gtx nemesis, Anyone know which performs better with ap-15s? Also anywhere to get non dark matter nemesis rads in the USA?


I really like my Nemesis rads. The texture has grown on me but they perform well with AP15's. I would recommend them.

*EDIT* I'll be using them again for my next build.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've owned six Monsta 480s, three Monsta 360s, st30 240, two ut60 560, two ut60 280s, and one ut60 420 and I've never had issues.
> 
> 
> 
> I have had the same experience with Alpha
> 
> Yes, well, I am fan of the brand both design and performance-wise too but the alphastool nick is well-deserved.
> 
> That is not cool, ans a bit puerile
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jesusnadinosaur....for the love of God,edit your posts rather than multiple posting.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Poor jesusnad. Getting yelled at on Reddit for posting too many updates on rig and here lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> LOL yes his enthusiasm for the hobby is nice and appreciated but he needs to settle down a bit. Take a deep breath and hit edit, bro...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> anyway, I have actually been inside the NexXxos rads, and the quality is stellar
> 
> 
> Red1776
> 
> 
> Red1776
> 
> 
> Red1776
> 
> Not going to pursuit or propagate an argument, so I will just leave it there.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looking in the port is hardly going inside.....
> 
> That's not looking inside the port, that's inside the rad looking out.
> 
> This thread is littered with poor quality Alphastool products,bent up rads,solder balls in the tubes,ports that wring off.....and not forgetting the manufacturing crap in them.
> 
> while me using Alpha may be anecdotal, it's a lot of anecdotal. and my experience is just as valid as anyone Else's.and I am just not having the problems "that litter" these threads. for every complaint about the XT, UT series you can find. I will find you several that are very happy with the results of the Alpha.
> 
> Actually here is an experienced user just above who has owned many AlphaCools and had no problems By the way, a thorough flush removes the Flux etc....just a tip.
> 
> This is not speculation,this is fact as displayed in this thread,while you may have a couple of good examples,there are many more that don't. Even the ones PARVUM got for a build had wonky stickers on them.....
> 
> A wonky sticker?...oh dear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/10/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-360mm-radiator-review/6/
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/7/
> 
> and there are more.
> 
> and soon to come, a quad rig that has 4 GPU's that top out at 37c-39c
> 
> BTW, "Alphastool" is just a bit childish.
Click to expand...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> BTW, "Alphastool" is just a bit childish.


Its annoying and I pointed this out a while ago when a few of us got fed up w/ the grade-school antics. It ended up with another heated debate.

edited to keep the peace...

What a pita to remove the Vesuvius cables connecting the pcb to the cooler. I actually had to get my precision flat head in there to gently persuade the plugs out. Once off and cleaned, the Koolance blocks were a breeze to install. I love how it keeps the stock backplate with the right size screws.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*



*Spoiler pictures when quoting them for the umpteenth time in this thread*. You should know this by now since you aren't a new user on OCN.
What is worse, is that you don't know how to properly reply to someone's post, instead posting in their quote.

You are fine to believe in your experiences with Alphacool/Alphastool. However, despite your experiences and a few other people's experience with their products, the VAST majority of the watercooling community has had massive issues with their products, ranging from their fittings, to waterblocks, to definitely their radiators. Everything from dirty radiators, to broken seals on their rotaries/blocks, to quality control issues in things such as soldering, etc.. The majority outweighs your experiences in this case.
How much are you getting paid for again by Alphacool/Alphastool/Phobya? Because not even the most ardent supporters of Alphastool go this far.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Spoiler pictures when quoting them for the umpteenth time in this thread*. You should know this by now since you aren't a new user on OCN.
> What is worse, is that you don't know how to properly reply to someone's post, instead posting in their quote.
> 
> You are fine to believe in your experiences with Alphacool/Alphastool. However, despite your experiences and a few other people's experience with their products, the VAST majority of the watercooling community has had massive issues with their products, ranging from their fittings, to waterblocks, to definitely their radiators. Everything from dirty radiators, to broken seals on their rotaries/blocks, to quality control issues in things such as soldering, etc.. The majority outweighs your experiences in this case.
> How much are you getting paid for again by Alphacool/Alphastool/Phobya? Because not even the most ardent supporters of Alphastool go this far.
Click to expand...

1)Some complaints in this thread does not a majority make.

2) Incorrect.

3) I pay retail for my Rads. I might point out that you have gone just as far as I in your attempted defamation of ALPHACOOL.

4) So Hows the weather there in Dallas?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> ALPHACOOL


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The rabid defensive posture of the consumer.....

Alphacool/Phobya have really poor QC,there has been many examples of this,you can bury your head in the sand and deny everything but there has been tooooo many examples to refute.
Your small sample size does not excuse them.

You may mock the wonky stickers but when they are supplied rads for marketing,specially QC checked and they are still wonky...that makes them incompetant.
And,again,just sticking a fiber optic into the port is not going inside to any worthwhile extent to validate your claims.


----------



## szeged

I have 4 monsta 480 rads from alphacool.

. All 4 of them were bought brand new

. All 4 of them arrived with scratched laint

. All 4 of them arrived with a lot of bent fins

. All 4 of them were denied returns/rma from ppcs and alpha cool, they told me it was my fault even though I linked them pictures etc etc and ppcs had it documented that I had the rads for about an hour before they got my return request.

This is why I will never buy any of their products again. They had 4 chances to not have qc problems yet failed every time imagine if someone bought 4 gtx 980s and even erythromycin single one was don and newegg/brand of card/nvidia denied a refund, people would have the world's largest S - storm ever seen on these forums.

Edited because my phone likes to auto correct things that make no sense.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

heh, I've bought and used more than 12 Alphacool rads, and will probably buy even more in the future. I like them, but I also concede that most of the complaints about them are true, especially about the condition and crud found on the insides of them when new is horrendous and even I toss around the well-earned 'Alphastool' name now and again.









After doing a couple rounds of using Mayhem's Blitz kit and seeing the results of cleaning their rads out like that and the shocking amount of crud that comes out and the shiny new-looking copper insides left behind I've more recently started doing a similar (albeit cheaper) ~4hr soak with my own solution of ~50 ml 85% Phosphoric Acid in 1L distilled followed immediately by a thorough flush of hot tap water by connecting the rad directly to a faucet. That's been working rather well for me so far.

The first few Alphacool rads I bought the finish was pretty bad. There was visible dust in the paint, uneven coverage, and the labels were often slightly crooked. I must say that all the ones I've bought in the past year or two look much better. The finish has been very nice, dare I say 'perfect', and they now come without stickers preinstalled but instead a little package of decals so you can put them on crooked yourself if you wish.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I have 5 monsta 480 rads from alphacool.
> 
> . All 4 of them were bought brand new
> 
> . All 4 of them arrived with scratched laint
> 
> . All 4 of them arrived with a lot of bent fins
> 
> . All 4 of them were denied returns/rma from ppcs and alpha cool, they told me it was my fault even though I linked them pictures etc etc and ppcs had it documented that I had the rads for about an hour before they got my return request.
> 
> This is why I will never buy any of their products again. They had 4 chances to not have qc problems yet failed every time imagine if someone bought 4 gtx 980s and even erythromycin single one was don and newegg/brand of card/nvidia denied a refund, people would have the world's largest S - storm ever seen on these forums.


I can believe.

Even more so as I worked for a WC vendor and have seen the RMA rate...massively larger than the few samples being touted in this thread as an example...

Still,because fanboy means this is irrelevant apparently.


----------



## szeged

Despite all the problems with my monsta 480s, I can't deny their cooling potential, I just wish they didn't arrive looking 10 years old.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Despite all the problems with my monsta 480s, I can't deny their cooling potential, I just wish they didn't arrive looking 10 years old.


No one is denying the performance,its the QC and general build quality which is shoddy,which means more to me than a c or 2.


----------



## szeged

Agreed which is why this new build I'm doing will be getting some sr2s or nemesis rads depending on what I can find.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Is there still a ppc ocn discount code or was that only fcpu? Thanks!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is there still a ppc ocn discount code or was that only fcpu? Thanks!


OCN55 still works


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> OCN55 still works


Thanks! It wasn't working on my order of $45, but when I added another item it worked, so there must be a minimum now.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No one is denying the performance,its the QC and general build quality which is shoddy,*which means more to me than a c or 2*.


I have to agree here. As much as I am content with the performance of my AC rads, I would have rather avoided the prep work of getting them ready. AND having to deal with the port leaking and then finally splitting off and leaking all over my system. Throw me some nice Black Ice rads. That is the direction I'll be going on my next personal build.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is there still a ppc ocn discount code or was that only fcpu? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> OCN55 still works
Click to expand...

I dont remember how much it was good for, but if you "like" or "+1" them from the social buttons on the website, you get a discount code. It was enough to cover shipping on the last order I placed.


----------



## belerefontis

Hey all, attached my build.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> What new swiftech pump?


The mcp50x. Basically it's almost a mcp35x. I had it for awhile and only switched to a Mcp35x bc of a fluke failure. And that I wanted a pump top


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Please senf let me know how u achieved that blue.. is this blueberry pastel + dye? i want that color .. and i can't easily buy stuff to try.. i've asked about that color in mayhems.. but i got no answer


I believe it's mayhems pastel blue and with the led white lights it gives it a darker look. See mine for exame with lights on it's darker.


----------



## mr one

So new pumps has higher failure rate?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I believe it's mayhems pastel blue and with the led white lights it gives it a darker look. See mine for exame with lights on it's darker.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm pretty sure is "used" to be pastel blue berry as you can see in the older pictures of the build, this color definitely looks darker, I think the last pictures had led lights too. Could be wrong though but it does look very different to me.


----------



## Gilles3000

Don't have much experience with alphacool, but I'll but it up here anyway.

Picked up a 360mm DDC-kit for dirt cheap on sale. Paid less then most high-end AOI's. It looked like a great starting point for a loop, and it was.

Rad: XT45 360mm: The finish was alright, couple of specs in the paint. I flushed by shaking it with a hot vinegar solution, followed by 2 hot distilled flushes. Saw a couple of specs in the sink, but nothing dramatic. Performance is great. (The copper stickers were damaged but wasn't really planning on using them)

CPU block: XP3 Light: Pretty disappointing, the top hat a lot of machining marks, the threads were rough and had some pretty long burrs attached. If i hadn't removed those with tweezers they would've gotten right into the block, or worse in the loop.

Fittings: 13mm Compressions: The paint, again, was nothing special. Besides that, they looked fine when installed and don't leak.

Coolant: No corrosion or algae after a year.

Ditched the rest of the included stuff other than the pump.

Overall, It was great value considering what I paid for it, but quality was less than expected.


----------



## szeged

They do have nice prices on their stuff but I guess this ends up being a "get what you pay for" situation.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> So new pumps has higher failure rate?


That's not what I said at all. The pumps our fine. Mine was a fluke failure. You can find failures on any product. I would recommend the mcp50x. I would like to see pump tops for them. Also bram from swiftech unlike most vendors will help you out if there is any issuses ever and in a timely manner. Edit: @guitarhero. You maybe right but I believe that it is just the same blue berry. As with my build it looks a lot darker with led white lights. I maybe wrong though. (You were looking for the colt blue right ? If I'm not mistaken )


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Wow, I was just gone for a day or two and Madness erupts in this thread of Alphacool.... (Again) As many times as the subject has been brought up, (Defended, or Shot Down) you would think that people are beginning to realize to make their own decisions. I have a UT 60mm 240 in my 750D and Honestly was impressed (Not with the results of performance) but the quality of the radiator. Clean Box, No bent Fins, Full Copper was Copper









Would I buy another Alphacool Radiator after Living in this thread for so long.... Not a Chance.

Purchased EK and XSPC Rads INstead.

The Cautious One


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I believe it's mayhems pastel blue and with the led white lights it gives it a darker look. See mine for exame with lights on it's darker.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm pretty sure is "used" to be pastel blue berry as you can see in the older pictures of the build, this color definitely looks darker, I think the last pictures had led lights too. Could be wrong though but it does look very different to me.


its a Mayhem Blueberry pastel with one drop (in the loop directly, little bit more than a litre) of dark blue (didnt make a real diference IMO)
and led lights and adding contrast to the pics to have deep black

combination of all

color with the drop but without led lights
seem darker than regular Blueberry pastel


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> its a Mayhem Blueberry pastel with one drop (in the loop directly, little bit more than a litre) of dark blue (didnt make a real diference IMO)
> and led lights and adding contrast to the pics to have deep black
> 
> combination of all
> 
> color with the drop but without led lights
> seem darker than regular Blueberry pastel


I actually did two drops of dark blue. As well recently. Which made it slightly darker to the color I wanted.


----------



## emsj86

Ot but I've been a violator of this several times. Since I'm working on a roof or outside I'm using on this thread on a cell phone. Now at home I now how to do a spoiler but how do you do it on the mobile version. Sorry for being off topic but figure it would help me and others.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Don't have much experience with alphacool, but I'll but it up here anyway.
> 
> Picked up a 360mm DDC-kit for dirt cheap on sale. Paid less then most high-end AOI's. It looked like a great starting point for a loop, and it was.
> 
> Rad: XT45 360mm: The finish was alright, couple of specs in the paint. I flushed by shaking it with a hot vinegar solution, followed by 2 hot distilled flushes. Saw a couple of specs in the sink, but nothing dramatic. Performance is great. (The copper stickers were damaged but wasn't really planning on using them)
> 
> CPU block: XP3 Light: Pretty disappointing, the top hat a lot of machining marks, the threads were rough and had some pretty long burrs attached. If i hadn't removed those with tweezers they would've gotten right into the block, or worse in the loop.
> 
> Fittings: 13mm Compressions: The paint, again, was nothing special. Besides that, they looked fine when installed and don't leak.
> 
> Coolant: No corrosion or algae after a year.
> 
> Ditched the rest of the included stuff other than the pump.
> 
> Overall, It was great value considering what I paid for it, but quality was less than expected.


Don't get me started on the fittings...there seems to be a multitude of finishes used,gloss,matt and passivated...all on the same sizing.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ot but I've been a violator of this several times. Since I'm working on a roof or outside I'm using on this thread on a cell phone. Now at home I now how to do a spoiler but how do you do it on the mobile version. Sorry for being off topic but figure it would help me and others.


You have to do the tags manually as there is no button to do so in the response window. It's easy enough though. It's just "SPOILER" and "/SPOILER" in [brackets]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Don't get me started on the fittings...there seems to be a multitude of finishes used,gloss,matt and passivated...all on the same sizing.


Don't forget that "drug through a gravel parking lot" finish


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Don't forget that "drug through a gravel parking lot" finish


I got the "dropped into a pit of rocks" finish on my rads.


----------



## iBored

Shamelessly throwing one here


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Seriously not trying to digress and beat a dead horse further but I take exception to those who say _"alphastool" is childish_. It's not childish&#8230;it's absolutely *apt*&#8230;based on how the water looks after a flushing. The hilarity is subjective, I suppose.

Moreover I will point out I have not had any cosmetic or fin issues with mine going back to a single ST30 120mm three years ago&#8230;.just all the garbage inside. My latest brand new one from PPCs has a huge piece of flux inside I can hear rattling around.

Edit: Speaking of which, what the hell should I do? It sounds large and I am not sure it will flush out. But once I put liquid through it&#8230;not feeling too positive about contacting PPCs at this point either but maybe should just try.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Shamelessly throwing one here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2374201/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


it looks good mate, I like it.


----------



## PCModderMike

Tore down the loop in my S5 over the weekend to make some changes.

Loop has been running for almost a year, so I was surprised to find no staining or plasticizer build up like I had seen in all my previous builds.


I have been using PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing. Just figured I would share my results.









Also I am parting ways with my 690....hope it's not breaking the rules to share this, in case anyone wants to check it out.
Link to for sale thread in the OCN marketplace


----------



## USMC Modder

Can I use either of these fittings with the regular 12mm tubing for all my fittings? Or do they only work with the crystal link adapters? From the looks it says they are for 12mm tubes.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c47-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c48-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-mini-set-of-2.html

Or do I have to use these?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-deluxe-white-enhance-multi-link-for-acrylic-tube-od-12mm.html

I only ask because the other two are sold as sets of two and will save me some money. If I can use the c47 or c48 fittings, are the c48 good with just the one o-ring. I would like to keep the fittings as small as possible.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Can I use either of these fittings with the regular 12mm tubing for all my fittings? Or do they only work with the crystal link adapters? From the looks it says they are for 12mm tubes.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c47-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c48-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-mini-set-of-2.html
> 
> Or do I have to use these?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-deluxe-white-enhance-multi-link-for-acrylic-tube-od-12mm.html
> 
> I only ask because the other two are sold as sets of two and will save me some money. If I can use the c47 or c48 fittings, are the c48 good with just the one o-ring. I would like to keep the fittings as small as possible.


You can use both. And the Pairs are the best Deal. I love the C47 Personally









TCO


----------



## BradleyW

My loop has been running for a year and I've not seen any changes in colour or temperatures. I use the same tubing as you PCModderMike.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Can I use either of these fittings with the regular 12mm tubing for all my fittings? Or do they only work with the crystal link adapters? From the looks it says they are for 12mm tubes.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c47-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c48-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-mini-set-of-2.html
> 
> Or do I have to use these?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-deluxe-white-enhance-multi-link-for-acrylic-tube-od-12mm.html
> 
> I only ask because the other two are sold as sets of two and will save me some money. If I can use the c47 or c48 fittings, are the c48 good with just the one o-ring. I would like to keep the fittings as small as possible.


Just be mindful that c48 have only one o-ring while c47 have 2 o-rings and feel a lot more safe and snug. The multi-link had a cap and is a bit easier to use but c47 looks great.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You can use both. And the Pairs are the best Deal. I love the C47 Personally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just be mindful that c48 have only one o-ring while c47 have 2 o-rings and feel a lot more safe and snug. The multi-link had a cap and is a bit easier to use but c47 looks great.


Thank you both for the quick responses. I think I'm going to go with the C47 for the added o-ring.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Anyone here tried using any of the new Nonoxia CoolForce tubing and fittings? I'm really interested in them, especially those fittings. Unfortunately they don't look like they are going to be sold / marketed in the US any time soon.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Thank you both for the quick responses. I think I'm going to go with the C47 for the added o-ring.










Hope it helps. The C48' s I picked up for 10$ each, I wish I could have spent half of that for the Same amount of C47s'

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Anyone here tried using any of the new Nonoxia CoolForce tubing and fittings? I'm really interested in them, especially those fittings. Unfortunately they don't look like they are going to be sold / marketed in the US any time soon.
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2374278/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


nice finding. I would like to test those too. They look great alike bitspower and ek fittings but apparently cleaner. I have a case (DS1) and fans from nanoxia and I personally like the brand. One possible shop to get those is high flow in Holland. I got the case from there and shipping is usually good and not expensive.

http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/coolforce/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Seriously not trying to digress and beat a dead horse further but I take exception to those who say _"alphastool" is childish_. It's not childish&#8230;it's absolutely *apt*&#8230;based on how the water looks after a flushing. The hilarity is subjective, I suppose.
> 
> Moreover I will point out I have not had any cosmetic or fin issues with mine going back to a single ST30 120mm three years ago&#8230;.just all the garbage inside. My latest brand new one from PPCs has a huge piece of flux inside I can hear rattling around.
> 
> Edit: Speaking of which, what the hell should I do? It sounds large and I am not sure it will flush out. But once I put liquid through it&#8230;not feeling too positive about contacting PPCs at this point either but maybe should just try.


If its rattling,its not flux,more likely the usual solder ball run off....


----------



## emsj86

Has anyone put a Tt x9 watercool build together? Interest to see how it looks and will having a side punted rad on the window side cause problems


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Has anyone put a Tt x9 watercool build together? Interest to see how it looks and will having a side punted rad on the window side cause problems


@wermad is supposed to be getting his either today or tomorrow so he'll probably have some pics to share shortly


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it helps. The C48' s I picked up for 10$ each, I wish I could have spent half of that for the Same amount of C47s'
> 
> TCO


PPCs has them both sold as pairs. The C48 are only .50 cents more. I think I might get some of both for the build. The only 90 degree fittings they have now are the ones with 1/4" thread. They don't know when they will get more of the 90 degree multi-link adapters.


----------



## Forceman

Anyone know of any decent, but not expensive, PWM fan controllers? I'm using the motherboard right now, but it is doing a terrible job - keeps ramping the fans up and down seemingly randomly. I was looking at something like the Zalman PWM Mate, but I can't find one anywhere. The drive-bay Zalman ZM-MFC3 seems like it would work, but I don't really want to spend $60 just for fan control.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Anyone know of any decent, but not expensive, PWM fan controllers? I'm using the motherboard right now, but it is doing a terrible job - keeps ramping the fans up and down seemingly randomly. I was looking at something like the Zalman PWM Mate, but I can't find one anywhere. The drive-bay Zalman ZM-MFC3 seems like it would work, but I don't really want to spend $60 just for fan control.


You have the PWM curve set up as a stepped curve right?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Has anyone put a Tt x9 watercool build together? Interest to see how it looks and will having a side punted rad on the window side cause problems


Don't know why the rad and window would cause problems. The TT X9 looks to me to be a knockoff version of a Caselabs Mercury S8, just made with cheaper materials and build quality with a dash of ugly mixed in. They should be ashamed of themselves copycatting someone else's design so closely.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its rattling,its not flux,more likely the usual solder ball run off....


Ok that makes sense. Flux would weigh less and cause less of a racket. Of course all that truly matters is if it will come out or not.

Thanks.


----------



## ubbb69

I built my rig in the core X9. Panels are flimsy, but overall nice paint. Window is low quality and scratches easy. Front is ugly and i am working on something for it. Overall though it is a decent case. They could have made it an awesome case if the side and top panels were a little better.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't know why the rad and window would cause problems. The TT X9 looks to me to be a knockoff version of a Caselabs Mercury S8, just made with cheaper materials and build quality with a dash of ugly mixed in. They should be ashamed of themselves copycatting someone else's design so closely.


Well what I meant was the caselabs s8 had vent for bottom side ride and too half window. Where the x9 has a full window. So how do you get the air flow you need. Now I know the back panel has vents but no windows. It's more I want to see my rad and gpu (like the caselabs s8. I want my cake and eat it too







)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its rattling,its not flux,more likely the usual solder ball run off....
> 
> 
> 
> Ok that makes sense. Flux would weigh less and cause less of a racket. Of course all that truly matters is *if it will come out or not.*
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

Almost certainly not,its there for life.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Has anyone put a Tt x9 watercool build together? Interest to see how it looks and will having a side punted rad on the window side cause problems
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know why the rad and window would cause problems. The TT X9 looks to me to be a knockoff version of a Caselabs Mercury S8, just made with cheaper materials and build quality with a dash of ugly mixed in. They should be ashamed of themselves copycatting someone else's design so closely.
Click to expand...

Others may look at it as a welcome entry into the scarce and overpriced horizontal imposition genre of cases. Wont aruge about the dash of ugly though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> PPCs has them both sold as pairs. The C48 are only .50 cents more. I think I might get some of both for the build. The only 90 degree fittings they have now are the ones with 1/4" thread. They don't know when they will get more of the 90 degree multi-link adapters.


I had ordered my C48's from Frozen and they were sold as Singles. for 9.99 each.

That's where I am coming from (My knowledge of them at least)

TCO


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't know why the rad and window would cause problems. *The TT X9 looks to me to be a knockoff version of a Caselabs Mercury S8, just made with cheaper materials and build quality with a dash of ugly mixed in. They should be ashamed of themselves copycatting someone else's design so closely.*


Coolermaster did the exact same thing with their newer HAF Stacker cases.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Has anyone put a Tt x9 watercool build together? Interest to see how it looks and will having a side punted rad on the window side cause problems


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't know why the rad and window would cause problems. The TT X9 looks to me to be a knockoff version of a Caselabs Mercury S8, just made with cheaper materials and build quality with a dash of ugly mixed in. They should be ashamed of themselves copycatting someone else's design so closely.


Ugly? have you owned CL???? I will agree w/ BNeg on they're not aesthetically pleasing. Will you change your mind now? Im guessing yes









Also, I think Mountain Mods beat CL to the cube w/ horizontal board with their U2UFO and "horizon" option. Didn't CL Jim say they were building a better MM case? Imitation is common, even among precious brands you hold dear.

I got one because it can hold a 480mm radiators. Something that the S8 can't do. You can get an Extended U2UFO, just saying, if you want this in a cube case. And most importantly, its a horizontal layout. My cards weigh a ton so it helps that they be position in this layout. Lastly, its cheap because its meant to sell in a different market then CL. Think of it as an improved HAF XB (which i've owned).

Emsk86, pm'd you already and hit the club for more info.

And can we please stop with the childish "alphastool". Yes, its childish and don't I care for the company. I use their products as they have suited me well. I use what I want. Blocks, res, fittings, I don't have a preferred brand. I'm not sponosored by anyone except my wallet, so I choose what i put in. Do I need to remind someone complaining of my crusade against EK when their blocks failed? Do I go around calling ek bananas because they peel??? Or Aquacomputer "Aquacrap" because of the laser cutting finish is just not that good? You guys can go on and on with the names but it does make you look like children. A brand burns you, just don't: promote it, recommend it, or buy it. You guys are getting to the point where your opinions are as good as the newegg reviews tbh. I do miss the days of Kevin and Chunky.....sigh....


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have the PWM curve set up as a stepped curve right?


I've tried it both as a stepped curve and as a straight flat curve (using the Gigabyte SIV software control). I don't want to use fixed RPM because then it goes to 100% when the CPU exceeds 70C, which is even more annoying.

It seems to work okay under load, but at idle it hunts the fan speeds a lot, even though the temp is solidly in the flat part of the curve. I'm thinking of just throwing in the towel and getting voltage fans instead.


----------



## wermad

Back on topic (sorry for the rant to everyone else







).


----------



## Bluemustang

Wow, lotta hate in here on alphacool.

I chose them for a few reasons at the same time that i couldnt find in other rads (and thought the only prob was dirty rads, which with a blitz cleaning is fine), havnt heard of the issue where the fittings go in, mine seem fine.

Reasons being are there even any other rads that have as many fitting hole options as a UT60? 7, 2 on each side plus 1 on the end. While having one of the best performance curves over a range of fan speeds (which is what i wanted, not necessarily the best at 1 fan speed but the best over a range).

And im glad i went with what i did as those options proved vital to my layout. I ended up using a fitting on all 3 of the 3 available sides.

So its not just about a good performer with the problems, its a good performer with awesome options with some cleanliness issues.

Though my 2 samples (UT60 480 and XT45 480) didnt have much. The acid turned blue after a 12 hour soak but there was hardly any debris in it. And i shook the rads out with hot water twice before the acid soak, 3 times after plus 30 minutes hooked to faucet for each rad (and 15 mins in each direction).


----------



## wermad

XSPC rads have had more debris in my experience (v1 and v2), followed by Swiftech and EK. Either way, flushing is a must. I haven't changed my water (I am reusing it) and its clear as always in the AC reservoir. No debris, no discoloration, or gunk. I did do thorough clean since most of the main components were preowned from a pastel setup. A lot of milky crude came out with the hot tap







.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Wow, lotta hate in here on alphacool.
> 
> I chose them for a few reasons at the same time that i couldnt find in other rads (and thought the only prob was dirty rads, which with a blitz cleaning is fine), havnt heard of the issue where the fittings go in, mine seem fine.
> 
> Reasons being are there even any other rads that have as many fitting hole options as a UT60? 7, 2 on each side plus 1 on the end. While having one of the best performance curves over a range of fan speeds (which is what i wanted, not necessarily the best at 1 fan speed but the best over a range).
> 
> And im glad i went with what i did as those options proved vital to my layout. I ended up using a fitting on all 3 of the 3 available sides.
> 
> So its not just about a good performer with the problems, its a good performer with awesome options with some cleanliness issues.
> 
> Though my 2 samples (UT60 480 and XT45 480) didnt have much. The acid turned blue after a 12 hour soak but there was hardly any debris in it. And i shook the rads out with hot water twice before the acid soak, 3 times after plus 30 minutes hooked to faucet for each rad (and 15 mins in each direction).


Do you have any pics of your build I'd like to see where you used fittings on all the sides that sounds interesting. I don't get the hate on alphacool, yes I've bought products from them that were crap like leaky fittings and dirty rads. But I've also bought products from them that I absolutely love. Mainly the alphacool ddc310. For the price there isn't a pump out there that can beat it imo,and it restored my faith that alphacool can indeed still make SOME quality stuff . This doesn't mean I'm going to go out and do a whole build with just alphacool stuff, but

I'm deffinatly not going to stay away from them for there shortcommings in the past. My favorite brand right now is ek, but even ek has had problems in the past. No one and no company is perfect and to think that they should be is outragous. We are all human including the people that work for these companies. Mistakes are made, but it is how they choose to fix these mistakes ,that make them good companies.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Back on topic (sorry for the rant to everyone else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Edit-id...

Super jealous... I just ordered my second gtx 690 but these things make them look like kids toys







( I don't have a psu strong enough to run two of these anyhow.

Btw what psu are you using to power these beasts?

(Edited for double post)


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Back on topic (sorry for the rant to everyone else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


The only thing that I do not like about that picture is...

Than those GPUs are not mine









Looks awesome man, hope that you enjoy it and finish the project successfully.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@jesusnadinosaur

*DO YOU EVEN EDIT BRO......*









TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Super jelous... I just ordered my second gtx 690 but these things make them look like kids toys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( I don't have a psu strong enough to run two of these anyhow. Btw what psu are you using to power these beasts?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> The only thing that I do not like about that picture is...
> 
> Than those GPUs are not mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome man, hope that you enjoy it and finish the project successfully.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I did a once over with a microfiber cloth to give the ss a clean. Acetal and ss are a magnet for fingerprints. The new case should allow prominent view of the second card on its side.

Lepa g1600 is doing the power. though, with multiple rails, its important you know which rails are going to power *each* 8-pin and if they meet the minimum 28 amp recommendation. Had I known i was going to change cases, i may have picked up an EVGA since space is no longer a concern (G1600 is very compact for its power size).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @jesusnadinosaur
> 
> *DO YOU EVEN EDIT BRO......*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I immediately looked at your avatar and its quite befitting







.

@ Jesusnadinasaur, just edit your last post.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Wow, lotta hate in here on alphacool.
> 
> I chose them for a few reasons at the same time that i couldnt find in other rads (and thought the only prob was dirty rads, which with a blitz cleaning is fine), havnt heard of the issue where the fittings go in, mine seem fine.
> 
> Reasons being are there even any other rads that have as many fitting hole options as a UT60? 7, 2 on each side plus 1 on the end. While having one of the best performance curves over a range of fan speeds (which is what i wanted, not necessarily the best at 1 fan speed but the best over a range).
> 
> And im glad i went with what i did as those options proved vital to my layout. I ended up using a fitting on all 3 of the 3 available sides.
> 
> So its not just about a good performer with the problems, its a good performer with awesome options with some cleanliness issues.
> 
> Though my 2 samples (UT60 480 and XT45 480) didnt have much. The acid turned blue after a 12 hour soak but there was hardly any debris in it. And i shook the rads out with hot water twice before the acid soak, 3 times after plus 30 minutes hooked to faucet for each rad (and 15 mins in each direction).
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any pics of your build I'd like to see where you used fittings on all the sides that sounds interesting. I don't get the hate on alphacool, yes I've bought products from them that were crap like leaky fittings and dirty rads. But I've also bought products from then that I absolutely love. Mainly the alphacool ddc310. For the price there isn't a pump out there that can beat it.and it restored my faith that alphacool can indeed still make quality products. This doesn't mean I'm going to go out and do a whole build with just alphacool stuff but I'm deffinatly not going to stay away from them for there shortcommings in the past. My favorite brand right now is ek but even ek has had problems in the past. No one and no company is perfect and to think that they should be is outragous. We are all human including people that work for these companies, mistakes are made but it is how they choose to right these mistakes is what makes them good companies.
Click to expand...

It does?

So Aquatuning's (Alphacool/Phobya's parent company) trademark grab is the behavior of an upstanding company?



Carry on supporting them,its your hard earned.


----------



## wermad

may I ask what electrical setup you have for the sr2 rig? I'm guessing with Keppler and the sr2, ~1300-1500w?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

It does?

So Aquatuning's (Alphacool/Phobya's parent company) trademark grab is the behavior of an upstanding company?

I'm not saying that I'm going to praise all of their products or help promote them. But some of the stuff they sell is cheaper than the competition and I don't always have the money to buy bitspower or some of the other companies products that cost twice as much with little overall benefit. There are certain products of theirs that I do stay away from like fittings and radiators.

What's that picture saying? That aqua tuning is trying to take the names of bitspower, swiftech and others?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> may I ask what electrical setup you have for the sr2 rig? I'm guessing with Keppler and the sr2, ~1300-1500w?
Click to expand...

It was 3 670 ftw's....i had a 1500w platimax running it,the cards didnt concern me but the 300w+ each that the Westmeres gobbled up certainly did!

IIRC it drew about 1100w at full roar.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Do you have any pics of your build I'd like to see where you used fittings on all the sides that sounds interesting. I don't get the hate on alphacool, yes I've bought products from them that were crap like leaky fittings and dirty rads. But I've also bought products from then that I absolutely love. Mainly the alphacool ddc310. For the price there isn't a pump out there that can beat it.and it restored my faith that alphacool can indeed still make quality products. This doesn't mean I'm going to go out and do a whole build with just alphacool stuff but I'm deffinatly not going to stay away from them for there shortcommings in the past. My favorite brand right now is ek but even ek has had problems in the past. No one and no company is perfect and to think that they should be is outragous. We are all human including people that work for these companies, mistakes are made but it is how they choose to right these mistakes is what makes them good companies.


I guess i could take a few pics, but this setup isnt complete, still waiting on a smaller res and second pump with dual pump top so i can move the res to the hdd cages (had leaking probs connected to back of case).





Originally i had the inlet in the back where the drain now is and the drain on the other end of the rad. But having the inlet there caused the 90 turn to the pump to be too tight and prone to leaking, plus it looked terrible as the inlet tube to rad was touching the outlet tube from rad to gpu.

And will you look at that terminal, crystal clear <3. I only wish the dual pump top i ordered was as clear and not frosted. Think i should sand it down?

PS: So any other rads with this many fitting options available?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Originally i had the inlet in the back where the drain now is and the drain on the other end of the rad. But having the inlet there caused the 90 turn to the pump to be too tight and prone to leaking, plus it looked terrible as the inlet tube to rad was touching the outlet tube from rad to gpu.

And will you look at that terminal, crystal clear <3. I only wish the dual pump top i ordered was as clear and not frosted. Think i should sand it down?

PS: So any other rads with this many fitting options available?[/quote]

Yeah I love how thst sli bridge is crystal clear. I just ordered my second 690 and waterblock and I had planned on using the ek triple serial bridge I had polished from eks frosted look to crystal clear. But it turns out that for 1 if I double spaced the cards the second card would hit my ek d5 pump and it's really not possible unless I buy another ddc pump, and I really don't want to have a ddc pump trying to cool all the stuff I'm cooling. And two the spacing on my motherboard is funky so even if I wanted to I couldn't use the sli bridge I already have







( so I ordered an dual serial 3 slot ek bridge to connect my two blocks and I'm crossing my fingers hoping that it will clear my pump, by the looks of it it should barely clear it, but things don't always go as planned. So worse case scenario I have to buy a $50 ddc pump.

Btw I can look and see if I can find it but I've got a tutorial on how you can polish eks frosted acrylic and make it crystal clear give me a little while to find it and I'll shoot it your way!! Here's a pic of one of the blocks I hand polished.

Sli bridge



Ram block


It takes awhile to do but it's deffinatly worth it in the end as you can see. I also did my gtx 690 waterblock as well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, I did a once over with a microfiber cloth to give the ss a clean. Acetal and ss are a magnet for fingerprints. The new case should allow prominent view of the second card on its side.
> 
> Lepa g1600 is doing the power. though, with multiple rails, its important you know which rails are going to power *each* 8-pin and if they meet the minimum 28 amp recommendation. Had I known i was going to change cases, i may have picked up an EVGA since space is no longer a concern (G1600 is very compact for its power size).
> 
> 
> I immediately looked at your avatar and its quite befitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @ Jesusnadinasaur, just edit your last post.


Speaking of the Cat on the Mic?

I liked your last avatar before the Little Girl with the chimagangas. Press the Button and the Lazer Comes down to evaporate hummanity from this world.

Seemed fitting with the amount of Monsta you have









Ill be in Cali on the 11th of april. Gota pick up my woman in San Jose and drive back to Louisiana. Id stop by and take some pics.









Just Holla.

The Cautious One


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It was 3 670 ftw's....i had a 1500w platimax running it,the cards didnt concern me but the 300w+ each that the Westmeres gobbled up certainly did!
> 
> IIRC it drew about 1100w at full roar.


That's not bad. But then again, kepler was never a powerhog. What electrical setup do you have for your home? i know the rest of the world has better minimum electrical standards then the US.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Speaking of the Cat on the Mic?
> 
> I liked your last avatar before the Little Girl with the chimagangas. Press the Button and the Lazer Comes down to evaporate hummanity from this world.
> 
> Seemed fitting with the amount of Monsta you have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill be in Cali on the 11th of april. Gota pick up my woman in San Jose and drive back to Louisiana. Id stop by and take some pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just Holla.
> 
> The Cautious One


I still have that one. This is from an anime. I typically add an avatar of whatever anime I'm watching. Its time for a change though.

Road trips, nice







.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Originally i had the inlet in the back where the drain now is and the drain on the other end of the rad. But having the inlet there caused the 90 turn to the pump to be too tight and prone to leaking, plus it looked terrible as the inlet tube to rad was touching the outlet tube from rad to gpu.
> 
> And will you look at that terminal, crystal clear <3. I only wish the dual pump top i ordered was as clear and not frosted. Think i should sand it down?
> 
> PS: So any other rads with this many fitting options available?


Yeah I love how thst sli bridge is crystal clear. I just ordered my second 690 and waterblock and I had planned on using the ek triple serial bridge I had polished from eks frosted look to crystal clear. But it turns out that for 1 if I double spaced the cards the second card would hit my ek d5 pump and it's really not possible unless I buy another ddc pump, and I really don't want to have a ddc pump trying to cool all the stuff I'm cooling. And two the spacing on my motherboard is funky so even if I wanted to I couldn't use the sli bridge I already have







( so I ordered an dual serial 3 slot ek bridge to connect my two blocks and I'm crossing my fingers hoping that it will clear my pump, by the looks of it it should barely clear it, but things don't always go as planned. So worse case scenario I have to buy a $50 ddc pump.

Btw I can look and see if I can find it but I've got a tutorial on how you can polish eks frosted acrylic and make it crystal clear give me a little while to find it and I'll shoot it your way!! Here's a pic of one of the blocks I hand polished.

Sli bridge


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Ram block


It takes awhile to do but it's deffinatly worth it in the end as you can see. I also did my gtx 690 waterblock as well.



[/quote]

Yeah i found the guide, but it says to sand inside the coolant flow channels and im a little hesitant to risk leaking from that or elsewhere.


----------



## Gleniu

My first SLI setup under water







GPU temps below 40 degrees Celsius while gaming (still @stock







)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It was 3 670 ftw's....i had a 1500w platimax running it,the cards didnt concern me but the 300w+ each that the Westmeres gobbled up certainly did!
> 
> IIRC it drew about 1100w at full roar.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not bad. But then again, *kepler was never a powerhog.* What electrical setup do you have for your home? i know the rest of the world has better minimum electrical standards then the US.
Click to expand...

Very true,the 670's sipped like a nun.

It was on a 13 amp fuse @ 240v,european's regularly have 2500w vacuum cleaners and the like,we get big current as standard.


----------



## wermad

We have to do w/ 15amp lines 115v (1500w) as standard (or upgrade to 240v). I managed to switch to a 20amp line good for 2000w when i had the quad 480s and x79 setup. 30 amp will give me 3000w but I don't see this room pushing that much.

I pulled under 1300w in stock at the wall so far (benching).


----------



## emsj86

I'm unsure so figure I ask here. I have a xspc 360 rad and a 240 (performance edition) would replacing the swiftech with a sr1 (which is 54mm thick) give more a decent amount more perf (temp wise). I will be using the same sp120 fans at 1200 rpms. I could possibly add another 240 up front on my enthoo pro but rather not only due to not wanting to remove my only hdd cage


----------



## wermad

Sr1 v2 is probably one of the top dogs right now. The old sr1, something newer would be best imho. Though still better then some rads tbh.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm unsure so figure I ask here. I have a xspc 360 rad and a 240 (performance edition) would replacing the swiftech with a sr1 (which is 54mm thick) give more a decent amount more perf (temp wise). I will be using the same sp120 fans at 1200 rpms. I could possibly add another 240 up front on my enthoo pro but rather not only due to not wanting to remove my only hdd cage


Depends on your definition of "decent amount." I'm sure there would be an improvement, but unlikely that it would be more than 1-2C on core temps. Adding more radiator space will always offer better temps(until you get to that magical point with so much radiator space already, even doubling it wouldn't make a difference)


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm unsure so figure I ask here. I have a xspc 360 rad and a 240 (performance edition) would replacing the swiftech with a sr1 (which is 54mm thick) give more a decent amount more perf (temp wise). I will be using the same sp120 fans at 1200 rpms. I could possibly add another 240 up front on my enthoo pro but rather not only due to not wanting to remove my only hdd cage


I replaced my ax360 xspc 360mm rad with a hw labs sr2 and I'm seeing temps decreased by 7 to 10c! Deffinatly a worth while switch imho.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Depends on your definition of "decent amount." I'm sure there would be an improvement, but unlikely that it would be more than 1-2C on core temps. Adding more radiator space will always offer better temps(until you get to that magical point with so much radiator space already, even doubling it wouldn't make a difference)


*this*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I replaced my ax360 xspc 360mm rad with a hw labs sr2 and I'm seeing temps decreased by 7 to 10c! Deffinatly a worth while switch imho.


probably beacuse the ax is optimized for high pressure fans and is a bit under performer at low pressure as you can see here:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283133-Bundymania-User-Review-Triple-Radiator-%28360%29-Roundup-with-22-Rads-!

while the sr1 and sr2 are optimized for low air pressure (aka silence). So, not surprising but only happened because the ax was starved of air flow.


----------



## emsj86

This was my first time water cooling so when I bought my rads. I didn't have all the info and based my purchase off price and availability . So I got the xspc from microcenter I bribe it's the ex360 (which ever one is the cheapest thin xspc 360 rad (it is the ex360)) and I had a 240 switched performance edition (which is also very thin). Enthoo pro lacks much room above the mother board and I'm trying to figure a way to better my temps while still keeping the looks of my piping (afraid too much piping from say another rad will look off) I found the sr1 for 45 new with free shipping and figured it might help and at worest I could put it up front and remove the 200mm fan (case is a. Enthoo pro) maybe someone with or even without this case can weigh in and give me a way the will give me 5-10 degrees difference on temps (outside of 2000rpm fans). Edit: this is why I've been looking around debating on getting another pc case. What do you guys think or would do. Money is somewhat a factor as I have a two year old and a kid of the way while still trying to buy a house thanks in advance


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Well I would say get the sr1 rad if it's truly only 45 bucks because that is a steal. I payed 100 for my sr2 brand new from a user on reddit. Idk what kind of fans you are using but I have Noiseblocker eloops and have them turned up to the max which is 2400 rpms and to be completely honest I can barely hear them. I have some noctua nf f12 industrial fans in my main machine and at 2400rpm they sound like a jet in my house. The noiseblockers would be a good upgrade along side that rad esspecially if you are worried about noise, I'm sure you probably won't need to turn them up to the max speed but if your talking about decreasing your temps by ten degrees c then your going to have to change something along with your rads. What fans are you currently using?


----------



## Faster_is_better

How can I clean out some discoloration/slime from a radiator? I'm not sure if you can tell but the threads are really discolored and have some slime in the lower threads. I'm thinking a wire brush, but Is there some type of solvent that will dissolve it? The tank inside just looks a bit discolored not dirty, and the rad itself flushed clean so I'm not sure if its even something to worry about.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> This was my first time water cooling so when I bought my rads. I didn't have all the info and based my purchase off price and availability . So I got the xspc from microcenter I bribe it's the ex360 (which ever one is the cheapest thin xspc 360 rad (it is the ex360)) and I had a 240 switched performance edition (which is also very thin). Enthoo pro lacks much room above the mother board and I'm trying to figure a way to better my temps while still keeping the looks of my piping (afraid too much piping from say another rad will look off) I found the sr1 for 45 new with free shipping and figured it might help and at worest I could put it up front and remove the 200mm fan (case is a. Enthoo pro) maybe someone with or even without this case can weigh in and give me a way the will give me 5-10 degrees difference on temps (outside of 2000rpm fans). Edit: this is why I've been looking around debating on getting another pc case. What do you guys think or would do. Money is somewhat a factor as I have a two year old and a kid of the way while still trying to buy a house thanks in advance


Same thing as above mate. Unlikely to give you 5 to 10 C difference. There is no miracle. And btw you are referring to water temp correct? Because if you are talking about cpu temps in CPUs that need deliding to proper cool we are in a different territory...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> How can I clean out some discoloration/slime from a radiator? I'm not sure if you can tell but the threads are really discolored and have some slime in the lower threads. I'm thinking a wire brush, but Is there some type of solvent that will dissolve it? The tank inside just looks a bit discolored not dirty, and the rad itself flushed clean so I'm not sure if its even something to worry about.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


if after a good flush all is clean I would not worry mate. But if you want to give it a good clean you can always use Mayhems blitz.


----------



## emsj86

Maybe deliding is something I should consider (i7 4790k). (4.8 maxes on intel burn test around 76-80. Game temp is always below 70). Either way thanks


----------



## wermad

Haswell refresh should be a tad cooler then og haswell. For delid, go with the vise-hammer method.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Maybe deliding is something I should consider (i7 4790k). (4.8 maxes on intel burn test around 76-80. Game temp is always below 70). Either way thanks


I don't think you can delid an i7 4790k because aren't the lids welded to the chip please someone correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I don't think you can delid an i7 4790k because aren't the lids welded to the chip please someone correct me if I'm wrong.


No, they are not welded and can be de-lidded as usual.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, they are not welded and can be de-lidded as usual.


I was deffinatly given false info then, do you know which chips do have the top welded on then?

Personally I've never had heat issues with my 4790k and don't think I would even think of taking the lid off. I think that there are options that you should try before attempting this!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I was deffinatly given false info then, do you know which chips do have the top welded on then?
> 
> Personally I've never had heat issues with my 4790k and don't think I would even think of taking the lid off. I think that there are options that you should try before attempting this!


None of the CPUs have welded on IHS. Some are soldered on, and that's also usually a low (120-130 ºC) solder used there as compared to welding which is usually at much higher temps.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> None of the CPUs have welded on IHS. Some are soldered on, and that's also usually a low (120-130 ºC) solder used there as compared to welding which is usually at much higher temps.


Your right I was just using the wrong word I deffinatly meant soldered on not welded. But even though it's soldered on I've still seen people rip the chip in half while attempting to delid it, is there a way to melt the solder so that you can get the lid off or is it more of a 50/50 chance of destroying your cpu?


----------



## wermad

Why is everyone offline, including me









Lol, ocn new gui strikes again!









http://www.overclock.net/t/1493938/delidding-devils-canyon


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Your right I was just using the wrong word I deffinatly meant soldered on not welded. But even though it's soldered on I've still seen people rip the chip in half while attempting to delid it, is there a way to melt the solder so that you can get the lid off or is it more of a 50/50 chance of destroying your cpu?


The 4790k is not even soldered on, but if you aren't sure then it's best to leave as is or let someone like @Silicon Lottery handle it.


----------



## fleetfeather

would not delid a soldered chip. there's nothing to gain by de-soldering; soldering is approximately the gold standard of heat transfer for CPUs.

no 4790k is soldered on.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> How can I clean out some discoloration/slime from a radiator? I'm not sure if you can tell but the threads are really discolored and have some slime in the lower threads. I'm thinking a wire brush, but Is there some type of solvent that will dissolve it? The tank inside just looks a bit discolored not dirty, and the rad itself flushed clean so I'm not sure if its even something to worry about.


Thats minor corrosion based on the greenish tint and you could probably scrub it off with a toothbrush and something like distilled + Pine Sol (which once saved a badly corroded block of mine after a long soak).


----------



## Qu1ckset

I was planning on getting a pair of Noise Blocker eLoops but Shipping from PPC to me(Canada) was costing like $35 in shipping and the only other place i can find them that will ship to me is ebay and Amazon for $45-$47 not worth it...

So im looking at the EK Vardars on Dazmode, and the FF5 is like a dollar more then the F3/F4 and its all black, my question these will all sounds the same running at equal rpms right? and will my 4pin PWM mobo header be able to control both properly with a Y splitter ? like both the same speed?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The 4790k is not even soldered on, but if you aren't sure then it's best to leave as is or let someone like @Silicon Lottery handle it.


I was just curios to know if it was even possible to delid a chip that was soldered on. Honestly is there even any real advantage to delidding a 4790k I've never had any heat issues with mine and I can't see the need or want to do it to a 4790k maybe with some of the older hotter chips but I wouldn't risk it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I was planning on getting a pair of Noise Blocker eLoops but Shipping from PPC to me(Canada) was costing like $35 in shipping and the only other place i can find them that will ship to me is ebay and Amazon for $45-$47 not worth it...
> 
> So im looking at the EK Vardars on Dazmode, and the FF5 is like a dollar more then the F3/F4 and its all black, my question these will all sounds the same running at equal rpms right? and will my 4pin PWM mobo header be able to control both properly with a Y splitter ? like both the same speed?


Yeah, at the same RPM they should perform similarly.

Controlling both of what? If it is the same fan then yes, and provided it can power two of them too. If different fans, then the same PWM % will result in different fan speeds on the different fans of course.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> I was just curios to know if it was even possible to delid a chip that was soldered on. Honestly is there even any real advantage to delidding a 4790k I've never had any heat issues with mine and I can't see the need or want to do it to a 4790k maybe with some of the older hotter chips but I wouldn't risk it.


Yeah it can be done as Mehlstaub showed here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1510388/haswell-e-overclock-leaderboard-owners-club/7700_50#post_23580189

Definitely not recommended at all.

If you have no heat issues, then don't delid. As simple as that!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> How can I clean out some discoloration/slime from a radiator? I'm not sure if you can tell but the threads are really discolored and have some slime in the lower threads. I'm thinking a wire brush, but Is there some type of solvent that will dissolve it? The tank inside just looks a bit discolored not dirty, and the rad itself flushed clean so I'm not sure if its even something to worry about.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats minor corrosion based on the greenish tint and you could probably scrub it off with a toothbrush and something like distilled + Pine Sol (which once saved a badly corroded block of mine after a long soak).
Click to expand...

You sure like that Pine Sol







I'm guessing this is just what happens when you leave water in a rad for a long time then? Bought it used, and I can see why it would be hard to drain this one fully...

Any other "cleaners"? I don't think I have any Pine Sol handy, I see some people say to use Vinegar or lemon juice to clean rads. Thanks for tips


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah, at the same RPM they should perform similarly.
> 
> Controlling both of what? If it is the same fan then yes, and provided it can power two of them too. If different fans, then the same PWM % will result in different fan speeds on the different fans of course.


Well each of my M7G Fan headers are 1amp, and according to the specs for the Power Draw on each fan: , 1.44W (Vardar F3), 2.16W (Vardar F4) and 5.64W (Vardar FF5) Im assuming it consumes those specs at max speed? i will most likely be running the FF5 around 1200-1850RPM so it will consume no where near 5.64W each right? because 11.28W for the both is a little close to the headers 1amp limit...


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I was planning on getting a pair of Noise Blocker eLoops but Shipping from PPC to me(Canada) was costing like $35 in shipping and the only other place i can find them that will ship to me is ebay and Amazon for $45-$47 not worth it...
> 
> So im looking at the EK Vardars on Dazmode, and the FF5 is like a dollar more then the F3/F4 and its all black, my question these will all sounds the same running at equal rpms right? and will my 4pin PWM mobo header be able to control both properly with a Y splitter ? like both the same speed?


What I did to make sure that my fans had enough power while splitting from one header is bought a 4 pin 3 fan splitter that has a molex connector thrown in to make sure your fans get enough power. Might be something worth buying if you have an extra 8 bucks to throw twards it. They sell them on amazon.com and if you have prime it's free shipping and I think they even have ones that have 4 way splitters +molex.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Well each of my M7G Fan headers are 1amp, and according to the specs for the Power Draw on each fan: , 1.44W (Vardar F3), 2.16W (Vardar F4) and 5.64W (Vardar FF5) Im assuming it consumes those specs at max speed? i will most likely be running the FF5 around 1200-1850RPM so it will consume no where near 5.64W each right? because 11.28W for the both is a little close to the headers 1amp limit...


Well I don't know if that's including start up boost though. With every fan I have checked out so far, the rated power was always higher than max operating power but that's not the biggest concern when powering fans- start up boost is.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well I don't know if that's including start up boost though. With every fan I have checked out so far, the rated power was always higher than max operating power but that's not the biggest concern when powering fans- start up boost is.


will a 4pin fan splitter with a molex connector solve this issue ? Or should I just get the F4 ?


----------



## VSG

Yeah I would get a powered PWM splitter myself just for peace of mind.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> You sure like that Pine Sol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing this is just what happens when you leave water in a rad for a long time then? Bought it used, and I can see why it would be hard to drain this one fully...
> 
> Any other "cleaners"? I don't think I have any Pine Sol handy, I see some people say to use Vinegar or lemon juice to clean rads. Thanks for tips


Yeah cause it worked much to my surprise and relief plus I have yet to hear another better suggestion for removal of corrosion specifically...had to soak my block for 48 hours plus scrub it but that crap did come off slowly but surely. As soon as I saw the solution had a green tint come morning I knew I might be able to save it, after all. Lemon juice maybe; I don't think vinegar is generally recommended anymore for rad cleaning...

You are sure there isn't any inside too?

Yeah as to what caused it idk exactly; maybe someone else here more experienced can comment...mine was so bad and thick though I must have mixed metals somehow or gotten a janky kill coil or something...still use that block and so far it hasn't recurred. But I'm due to peek inside again soon.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I was planning on getting a pair of Noise Blocker eLoops but Shipping from PPC to me(Canada) was costing like $35 in shipping and the only other place i can find them that will ship to me is ebay and Amazon for $45-$47 not ...


Buy it from Aquatuning.de. The German site, not the UK. The German site offer DHL for shipping and its around $12 cheaper compared if you're going to order from the UK site.


----------



## vb10

Hey all,
I was looking to jump into this ordeal, was just doing some preliminary estimates. What kind of rad set up would be required to keep a 4770k/4790k and one 290x cool (good performance and fairly quiet). I am looking at the corsair 450D and it has space for a 3x120mm rad - would one of those cut it? I like the look of plain cases, window is not required, but I would like to stay with mid-atx. Other case suggestions also welcome. Thanks!


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vb10*
> 
> Hey all,
> I was looking to jump into this ordeal, was just doing some preliminary estimates. What kind of rad set up would be required to keep a 4770k/4790k and one 290x cool (good performance and fairly quiet). I am looking at the corsair 450D and it has space for a 3x120mm rad - would one of those cut it? I like the look of plain cases, window is not required, but I would like to stay with mid-atx. Other case suggestions also welcome. Thanks!


Generally speaking, you want to have 120mm or rad space per component you are cooling plus an extra 120mm. So 360mm worth of rad space will be enough. However, if you plan on doing alot of overclocking, you might want to get 480mm worth of rad because a 290x can run a little hot, but 360mm is still fine.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

I'm actually contemplating watercooling my 4690K and my 290X I have right now so that I can add another 290X in the future.


----------



## szeged

still cant decide if i want sr-2s or nemesis rads, 1-2c difference in exchange for non dark matter, decisions decisions.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> I'm actually contemplating watercooling my 4690K and my 290X I have right now so that I can add another 290X in the future.


Hawaii generates a bit of heat. I would recommend fullcover blocks. I think ek is the only one that makes Lightning blocks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Vinegar and distilled boiling hot flushes should take care of that radiator issue. Wear gloves for when you cap and shake it. I nearly burned my palms when I flushed my used Rad. Doesn't take long for a 360 to get piping hot.







.

If that doesn't work than a 50/50 solution of CLR and Distilled mebbe?







stuff works awesome on calcified deposits. If it can't fix the issue then you gots some serious radiator rot goin on.









Anyone know who to contact here that HWReps Monsoon? I need to bend their ear.









~Ceadder


----------



## fleetfeather

woah, you mean to suggest a copper/brass rad is thermally conductive!?

shut.the.front.door.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hawaii generates a bit of heat. I would recommend fullcover blocks. I think ek is the only one that makes Lightning blocks.


Yeah... upgrading to a 1000W G2 + buying another Lightning + buying (2x) fullcovers + buying (2x) backplates is going to be fun and a lot of money if you get what I mean


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> woah, you mean to suggest a copper/brass rad is thermally conductive!?
> 
> shut.the.front.door.


Wait what? Since when? I need to get rid of my cardboard rads and get something made of copper and brass!


----------



## Ceadderman

CERAMIIIIC! Now THAT would be awesomesauce. If not a wee bit expensive.









~Ceadder


----------



## szeged

Wtb solid gold rads.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> CERAMIIIIC! Now THAT would be awesomesauce. If not a wee bit expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Because an insulator is exactly what rads needs to be made of...


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Yeah... upgrading to a 1000W G2 + buying another Lightning + buying (2x) fullcovers + buying (2x) backplates is going to be fun and a lot of money if you get what I mean


If you are watercooling for silence, I would stay away from the G2. I love evga and their costumer service,but my G2 is the only thing making noise in my rig.
Go for P2 it is more expensive, but has eco mode. I would have if I could do it over again.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> If you are watercooling for silence, I would stay away from the G2. I love evga and their costumer service,but my G2 is the only thing making noise in my rig.
> Go for P2 it is more expensive, but has eco mode. I would have if I could do it over again.


I'm in the same situation with my V850, its the loudest part of my rig at idle. Hybrid psu's are really worth it for quiet watercooled rigs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> CERAMIIIIC! Now THAT would be awesomesauce. If not a wee bit expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because an insulator is exactly what rads needs to be made of...
Click to expand...

I know I know, just a bit of silliness really. Kinda takin the Pizza out of the topic uknow?









~Ceadder


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Hi friends, i got a Define r5 with a xtx 360mm rad on top, but cooling only a 5820K, but i want both my overvoltet)overclocked 980s under water as well, would a 35mm 280mm rad help a bit? I guess the 360mm is not enough for all 3.

Any recommended me a good 280/240mm rad?

And how do i drain a loop without a drsinport? Simply till the lowest thing (in this case its my res/pump combo) and wait for the water to come out?









Thanks, i appreciate it!


----------



## Ceadderman

Add a T fitting and use a small section of tubing with compression or barb fitting barrel fitting and plug to it. Instant drain with zero worry. I should have a pic somewhere on my profile. My T was connected @ the Out on my pump block. Drain between Out fitting and Pump in the middle of the T fitting.









I wyd post a pic but am on my phone FTTB.









~Ceadder


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Hi friends, i got a Define r5 with a xtx 360mm rad on top, but cooling only a 5820K, but i want both my overvoltet)overclocked 980s under water as well, would a 35mm 280mm rad help a bit? I guess the 360mm is not enough for all 3.
> 
> Any recommended me a good 280/240mm rad?
> 
> And how do i drain a loop without a drsinport? Simply till the lowest thing (in this case its my res/pump combo) and wait for the water to come out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, i appreciate it!




I have the same case, use a drain at the lowest point in the loop with a T fitting as said above.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Wtb solid gold rads.


free gold rads giveaway in the near future?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> free gold rads giveaway in the near future?


.

.

.

.


----------



## Hefner

Solid gold? I'd melt & sell. Buy myself a crazy GPU, CPU & loop for that money.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> You sure like that Pine Sol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing this is just what happens when you leave water in a rad for a long time then? Bought it used, and I can see why it would be hard to drain this one fully...
> 
> Any other "cleaners"? I don't think I have any Pine Sol handy, I see some people say to use Vinegar or lemon juice to clean rads. Thanks for tips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah cause it worked much to my surprise and relief plus I have yet to hear another better suggestion for removal of corrosion specifically...had to soak my block for 48 hours plus scrub it but that crap did come off slowly but surely. As soon as I saw the solution had a green tint come morning I knew I might be able to save it, after all. Lemon juice maybe; I don't think vinegar is generally recommended anymore for rad cleaning...
> 
> You are sure there isn't any inside too?
> 
> Yeah as to what caused it idk exactly; maybe someone else here more experienced can comment...mine was so bad and thick though I must have mixed metals somehow or gotten a janky kill coil or something...still use that block and so far it hasn't recurred. But I'm due to peek inside again soon.
Click to expand...

Probably can't be 100% sure unless you slice the rad open and take a look







But really inside doesn't look that bad, its just nasty on the threads. I ran hot tap water through and nothing came out, but I suppose if it is this same kind of slime that may not be enough to flush it. I was mostly just curious on how to clean the threads off a bit, inside is probably fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Vinegar and distilled boiling hot flushes should take care of that radiator issue. Wear gloves for when you cap and shake it. I nearly burned my palms when I flushed my used Rad. Doesn't take long for a 360 to get piping hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If that doesn't work than a 50/50 solution of CLR and Distilled mebbe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stuff works awesome on calcified deposits. If it can't fix the issue then you gots some serious radiator rot goin on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know who to contact here that HWReps Monsoon? I need to bend their ear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for suggestions


----------



## guitarhero23

Polishing professionals...

What's the best process of sanding (what grit order) to get this:



To become this:


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Polishing professionals...
> 
> What's the best process of sanding (what grit order) to get this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To become this:


Pictures the right way around? You want to frost and add circles?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Polishing professionals...
> 
> What's the best process of sanding (what grit order) to get this:
> 
> 
> 
> To become this:


have you read this?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks

and did you place the photos in the correct order? You want to create the csq circles and fuzziness or the other way around?


----------



## guitarhero23

Oops
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Pictures the right way around? You want to frost and add circles?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> have you read this?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks
> 
> and did you place the photos in the correct order? You want to create the csq circles and fuzziness or the other way around?


Oops, well not add circles but yes, I want to take a clear plexi and frost it to match my build themes. So technically...un-polish it?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Oops
> 
> Oops, well not add circles but yes, I want to take a clear plexi and frost it to match my build themes.


In my experience the best frosting is just to take the highest grit you can find (1500+) and wetsand.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Oops
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Pictures the right way around? You want to frost and add circles?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> have you read this?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks
> 
> and did you place the photos in the correct order? You want to create the csq circles and fuzziness or the other way around?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oops, well not add circles but yes, I want to take a clear plexi and frost it to match my build themes. So technically...un-polish it?
Click to expand...


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Oops
> 
> Oops, well not add circles but yes, I want to take a clear plexi and frost it to match my build themes. So technically...un-polish it?


or this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glass-Frosting-Aerosol-Spray-Paint-Cans-Decorating-Security-Privacy-300ml-/151507401472?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item23468b7b00
without having to wear your arms out! it works. ive done it









Edit B-neg ninja'd me to it lol. but yeah can of frost spray does the job & gives a more consistant effect than sanding


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> If you are watercooling for silence, I would stay away from the G2. I love evga and their costumer service,but my G2 is the only thing making noise in my rig.
> Go for P2 it is more expensive, but has eco mode. I would have if I could do it over again.


Welp, that's $100 more expensive than the G2.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> In my experience the best frosting is just to take the highest grit you can find (1500+) and wetsand.


This is what I did when I "frosted" a sheet of plexi I was using as a light panel. Except I started with about 1200 grit I think and worked up to the highest grit my local hardware store had(2000 grit)


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Welp, that's $100 more expensive than the G2.


According to EVGA it should only be 20 dollars more?


----------



## LolCakeLazors

After rebate it's around $100 more.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438010

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438013


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> After rebate it's around $100 more.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438010
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438013


Consider the 1050 GS then: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438036


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


would that look good on 12 mm acrylic tubing? Have you tried before? Found an equivalent down here and will test in a small sample tube to check how would look. With water and the right illumination I guess will look quite nice.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Consider the 1050 GS then: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438036


What's the difference between the GS and the G2? Also, he was talking about how the P2 had an eco mode so that it would be mostly silent. I'm guessing the GS doesn't have ECO mode. Edit, I'm stupid. Yeah, I'll look into the GS.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

So I need some advise. I just now am comming to the realization that these 2 690s I'm going to be running in the same rig are going to consume alot of juice. Do you think that my 1000w evga psu will be able to handle it or should I sell it and buy a 1300w evga?


----------



## electro2u

Removed.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> would that look good on 12 mm acrylic tubing? Have you tried before? Found an equivalent down here and will test in a small sample tube to check how would look. With water and the right illumination I guess will look quite nice.


I remember seeing someone in the Acrylic Bending thread that frosted their tube. It made translucent coolant kind of look pastel and made pastel just look bad IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/480_20#post_20702271
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/2840_40#post_22420614
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/1560_20#post_21481719


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> would that look good on 12 mm acrylic tubing? Have you tried before? Found an equivalent down here and will test in a small sample tube to check how would look. With water and the right illumination I guess will look quite nice.


ive done it recently on a res for someone & it looks ok. much easier than sanding









dont know about it on tubing really?





thats still wet in the pic, i just blasted it for lulz









any glass frost spray should work well as the stuff adhere's really really well.

£1 a can







love my local pound shop







has everything lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

big discount bargain indeed







Thks mate it does look nice. @morencyam, thank you for the links mate.







That was my expectation clear liquid could have a good effect and pastel would not.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> big discount bargain indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thks mate it does look nice. @morencyam, thank you for the links mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was my expectation clear liquid could have a good effect and pastel would not.


hehe a £1 a can for spray paints







and if your wondering how many i bought?

ALL OF THEM


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> What's the difference between the GS and the G2? Also, he was talking about how the P2 had an eco mode so that it would be mostly silent. I'm guessing the GS doesn't have ECO mode. Edit, I'm stupid. Yeah, I'll look into the GS.


GS is based off of Seasonic's KM3+ platform, whereas the G2 is based off of Superflower's Leadex platform. The G2 in terms of performance is actually tighter than the KM3. Also, the G2 DOES have eco mode. I'd know, because I just installed one in a family member's system about a month ago.

Imo, the G2 is the better of the two. Especially since the KM3 did have a fair bit of coil whine problems, whereas the Leadex platform seemed nearly immune to it.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> GS is based off of Seasonic's KM3+ platform, whereas the G2 is based off of Superflower's Leadex platform. The G2 in terms of performance is actually tighter than the KM3. Also, the G2 DOES have eco mode. I'd know, because I just installed one in a family member's system about a month ago.
> 
> Imo, the G2 is the better of the two. Especially since the KM3 did have a fair bit of coil whine problems, whereas the Leadex platform seemed nearly immune to it.


I am very interested in were you found a switch or anything to turn on eco mode? Mine is constantly on.
So if anybody around EU would like a 1 month old EVGA 1000w G2 for around 120 Euro, PM me.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I am very interested in were you found a switch or anything to turn on eco mode? Mine is constantly on.
> So if anybody around EU would like a 1 month old EVGA 1000w G2 for around 120 Euro, PM me.


yep! the G2 doesnt have ECO. the P2 has it!

i has a P2 & its by far the most silent psu ive ever owned!


----------



## VSG

Only the 750 and 850G2 have eco mode, the rest don't. For more info, perhaps this thread might come in handy: http://www.overclock.net/t/1395708/evga-power-supplies-information-thread/0_50


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Only the 750 and 850G2 have eco mode, the rest don't. For more info, perhaps this thread might come in handy: http://www.overclock.net/t/1395708/evga-power-supplies-information-thread/0_50


Yes I can confirm this my 850w evga g2 has evo mode but my 1000w g2 does not. Kind of wierd that the more powerful ones don't have it...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Oops
> 
> Oops, well not add circles but yes, I want to take a clear plexi and frost it to match my build themes. So technically...un-polish it?


400 grit and sand in one direction if you want a brushed look. 1000 grit if you don't want a brushed look.

This is w/ 400.


EDIT: And what it looks like w/ coolant.


----------



## emsj86

For this whom made motherboard trays for your water cool rig do you simply cut it the d tray or make a metal or acrylic one over top. And I'm assuming drill the stands off in


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> If you are watercooling for silence, I would stay away from the G2. I love evga and their costumer service,but my G2 is the only thing making noise in my rig.
> Go for P2 it is more expensive, but has eco mode. I would have if I could do it over again.


wut? The G2 has Eco mode. Soure: I own one.

Edit: Evidently the 1000w doesn't but the 750W does. Also you would be fine with an 850w PSU for just two 290x's


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> wut? The G2 has Eco mode. Soure: I own one.
> 
> Edit: Evidently the 1000w doesn't but the 750W does. Also you would be fine with an 850w PSU for just two 290x's


Yeah, probably going to get an 850W although a 1000W would be safe if I decide to do some extreme overclocking. Trying to run 2x 290X on my 750W right now would require me to stay on stock.


----------



## gamerking

just reordered my gpu block along with bunch of other stuff lets hope fedex doesn't play soccer with my package again =( hopefully i remember to update my sig


----------



## deafboy




----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Digging the light bar upgrade on your dom plats. Makes me think about getting them for mine..but I really don't want to take my ram apart lol. Is there a way I could change the color to like purple or something?


----------



## wermad

Almost there...fingers hurt...need a break









Ocn mobile image uploader...


----------



## Alex132

Is it okay to use a reservoir (photon 270) horizontally?


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is it okay to use a reservoir (photon 270) horizontally?


Only in the Northern Hemisphere, unfortunately


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is it okay to use a reservoir (photon 270) horizontally?
> 
> 
> 
> Only in the Northern Hemisphere, unfortunately
Click to expand...

lol

You would need to be able to stand the res up vertical for filling / topping it off, probably easiest accomplished by tilting the entire case on it's back/front, but yes, it can be laid over horizontal for use as long as the inlet / outlet are kept well below the fill level.


----------



## Animalpak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> Almost there...fingers hurt...need a break
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ocn mobile image uploader...


Is your GPU still with air cooling ?...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Digging the light bar upgrade on your dom plats. Makes me think about getting them for mine..but I really don't want to take my ram apart lol. Is there a way I could change the color to like purple or something?


Enclosed in the Light bar kit for the Dom Plats are two options for colour insterts. One is CLear (which you can use a marker to colour whatever is your preference) and a blue insert.

TCO




I've chosen clear.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Enclosed in the Light bar kit for the Dom Plats are two options for colour insterts. One is CLear (which you can use a marker to colour whatever is your preference) and a blue insert.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've chosen clear.


The light bar kit is pretty easy to paint as well. I bought mine off of someone that painted them a darker gold color that just happens to match the dark gold on the south bridge on my Z77 Sabertooth mobo. I also kept the lights clear.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is it okay to use a reservoir (photon 270) horizontally?


For some reason I read this as "radiator" (despite the Photon part)&#8230;needless to say I was a bit confused.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animalpak*
> 
> Is your GPU still with air cooling ?...


Edit: they're on the blocks now. I'm finishing the tube and need to get the fans wired in today. Going fire her up later today I hope.


----------



## rlb9682

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> just a suggestion if your un happpy with your tube layout is to go gpu to top rad than top rad to cpu and cpu to top of reservior, so you don t have that run from the rad to the reservior. Either way good job just thought I d make a suggestion since you said you were un happy with it. here is how i did mine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I updated the tubing since I wasn't real happy with it before. I like the way it looks now better.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Enclosed in the Light bar kit for the Dom Plats are two options for colour insterts. One is CLear (which you can use a marker to colour whatever is your preference) and a blue insert.
> 
> TCO
> 
> I've chosen clear.


Oh that's pretty awesome, my build is purple and yellow so id defiantly want it to be one of those colors. I figure that since i cant watercool the ram in this pc i may as well make it look cool some other way. I was pretty upset when i figured out that i couldn't use the ek water block i had hand polished on my doms. Luckily i was able to pick up an 8gb set of dominator gts that i used the waterblock with in my green build. Do you remember off the top of your head how much the light bar upgrades cost and how long they took to install. Il be redoing my build this week Friday, assuming that my new tubing and assortment of other random crap arrives from ppcs.com





























:thumb:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh that's pretty awesome, my build is purple and yellow so id defiantly want it to be one of those colors. I figure that since i cant watercool the ram in this pc i may as well make it look cool some other way. I was pretty upset when i figured out that i couldn't use the ek water block i had hand polished on my doms. Luckily i was able to pick up an 8gb set of dominator gts that i used the waterblock with in my green build. Do you remember off the top of your head how much the light bar upgrades cost and how long they took to install. Il be redoing my build this week Friday, assuming that my new tubing and assortment of other random crap arrives from ppcs.com


I picked them up for 19.99 on Newegg a pair. I had a set of 4 x 4 gb sticks of the DOM Plats.

Installation was 30min or less, Just depends on if your jacked up on caffiene or not.

TCO

EDIT: Newegg is sold out AMAZON has um for 26 a pair.


----------



## Nichismo

Darn near finished with my lil Sidekick carbide 540 build. Probably going to be selling it on Ebay, with a couple options to make a few small changes.

Needs backplates and lighting.


----------



## Nichismo

all vertical and horizontal tubing, even on the motherboard waterblocks


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks really sharp Nichismo.









LOL... Lights on RAM in the WCing thread. I think I will just spend that $$ on LED strip and WC my Doms.







hehe

No am not judging. An yes I do know that WCing RAM is 2007, but with no fan blowing across them and MB already lit, LEDs on RAM seems nonBling factor for my build.









Edit: STOOPIDphone.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

To my eye, that made a lot of improvement.

Looks consistent and very pleasant on the eyes with the re-routing on the mobo.

With the big case and plenty of space, I think the 16mm tubing will go well.

Now just finish it so we can see it in action . . .









Darlene


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Wow I think that you switching the dom plats to something else and throwing those ek blocks on them made a 100 percent improvement. I'm super jelous of that build man nice job!! I'm loving the horizontal tubing!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks really sharp Nichismo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL... Lights on RAM in the WCing thread. I think I will just spend that $$ on LED strip and WC my Doms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe
> 
> No am not judging. An yes I do know that WCing RAM is 2007, but with no fan blowing across them and MB already lit, LEDs on RAM seems nonBling factor for my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: STOOPIDphone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










You Make fun of my Non Watercooled Lit up Dom Plats YOu!!









Let me Tell You something you autocorrected foo!!









I didn't want to spend the money on the Waterblocks when all I read is that they Don't do anything.









The Cautious One


----------



## Domiro

I do think the EK RAM modules look great on their own. Absolutely getting a pair.


----------



## emsj86

So maybe someone can lead me in the right direction. So I was planning to buy a new case but just found out I have a second kid on the way so those of you who have kids know than money is tight (or at least it is for me). So I have the enthoo pro now and figured I just mod the case. I really want to do a whole new mobo plate. One for looks two so I can drop the board height (while still lining up to a pci bracket) and install a thick rad. Question is when you make one do you cut out the old mother board plate and how so youount the board to the acrylic or metal (by drilling the stand offs in or directly to the plate itself ). Sorry for the long question. Never did any serious mods so what better place than ask the pros (hint that's you guys


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Digging the light bar upgrade on your dom plats. Makes me think about getting them for mine..but I really don't want to take my ram apart lol. Is there a way I could change the color to like purple or something?


Absolutely, pretty easy actually to change it to whatever color you'd like. Super easy change out the light bars.


----------



## emsj86

@nichismo nice build def an upgrade looks wise. Even though it looked well before. One gripe "that corsair sticker!!!" Got to go


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Absolutely, pretty easy actually to change it to whatever color you'd like. Super easy change out the light bars.


What would be the best way to turn them purple u think?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> I do think the EK RAM modules look great on their own. Absolutely getting a pair.


Yes they doo... I hand polished mine...it was before they made the polished ones..


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What would be the best way to turn them purple u think?


Dye the clear plastic portion.

I've only used RIT dye on plastics but I'm sure almost any would work well enough.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What would be the best way to turn them purple u think?


Here you go



TCO


----------



## Bluemustang

I bought that UN 360 mount for my dual d5 pump top but it didnt come with the necessary screws to mount to the dual pump top. I posted a pic of one of the screws that is for attaching the LED acrylic piece to the dual top. The screw does screw in but alas it is too long, anyone know which screw to get?


----------



## Qu1ckset

*Got a pack a package in the mail today!*



Got the two EKWB Vardar FF5 Fans and im not even remotely impressed with how loud they are, GT-AP15's running max at 1850rpms is much quieter then these FF5's turned down to the lowest setting 40%@1600Rpm, Wish they made the F1 and F2's in all black, as i would of bought those instead, these fans are way to loud at 1600Rpm's going to sell these fans. I will say these fan push a lot of air tho even at 1600rpms but at the sacrifice of loud they are not worth in my application, computer sounds so loud on idle.

Also Red Sleeving is ugly to look at and the heat shrink does a crap job staying on the mobo header revealing its ugly colored wires, i like cosairs approach with all black wires and no sleeving!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> *Got a pack a package in the mail today!*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the two EKWB Vardar FF5 Fans and im not even remotely impressed with how loud they are, GT-AP15's running max at 1850rpms is much quieter then these FF5's turned down to the lowest setting 40%@1600Rpm, Wish they made the F1 and F2's in all black, as i would of bought those instead, these fans are way to loud at 1600Rpm's going to sell these fans. I will say these fan push a lot of air tho even at 1600rpms but at the sacrifice of loud they are not worth in my application, computer sounds so loud on idle.
> 
> Also Red Sleeving is ugly to look at and the heat shrink does a crap job staying on the mobo header revealing its ugly colored wires, i like cosairs approach with all black wires and no sleeving!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My thoughts exactly. Its noisier compared to the AP15. Not even a noisy hum (which I can tolerate). More of a whining noise. It's very irritating.

But the 1400 version of the Vardar has the pleasant hum, just like the AP14's.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> [IMG
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2377494/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> I bought that UN 360 mount for my dual d5 pump top but it didnt come with the necessary screws to mount to the dual pump top. I posted a pic of one of the screws that is for attaching the LED acrylic piece to the dual top. The screw does screw in but alas it is too long, anyone know which screw to get?


Single Bitspower D5 tops come with M4x6mm screws.

You could try getting some of those and see if it will work for you.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Single Bitspower D5 tops come with M4x6mm screws.
> 
> You could try getting some of those and see if it will work for you.


I'm assuming thats the 3 bolts it actually did come with for mounting the base of the mount (though strangely enough the base has 4 holes and comes with 3 nuts and bolts).


----------



## akira749

A very nice review of our new EK-Supremacy MX CPU Block is up HERE


----------



## Gabrielzm

Got curious about the glass effect on 12 mm acrylic tubing and did a little experiment. Got a can of this:



spray a tube (one end of the tube is clear with no paint - the one away from the top) and put it to test with clear water, some green dye and then a mix of green+red and a bit of aurora booster:


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I'm assuming thats the 3 bolts it actually did come with for mounting the base of the mount (though strangely enough the base has 4 holes and comes with 3 nuts and bolts).


I'm not sure what your pump top came with, as reading up on various sites it mentions that mounting hardware is not included with the dual d5 top.

However, you'll need four M4x6mm bolts to mount in the holes you indicated in your photo.

I have circled them in the below diagram too.



M4x6mm bolts should be readily available at any hardware store


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I'm not sure what your pump top came with, as reading up on various sites it mentions that mounting hardware is not included with the dual d5 top.
> 
> However, you'll need four M4x6mm bolts to mount in the holes you indicated in your photo.
> 
> I have circled them in the below diagram too.
> 
> 
> 
> M4x6mm bolts should be readily available at any hardware store


Awesome thanks. It just occurred to me that the 3 screws holding the acrylic LED part on are the M4x16mm screws listed on PPCS which tells me i just need shorter M4s since they did fit. I was confusing the screws that came with the UN mount which dont fit.

Anyway thanks, ill check home depot tomorrow.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> *Got a pack a package in the mail today!*
> 
> 
> 
> Got the two EKWB Vardar FF5 Fans and im not even remotely impressed with how loud they are, GT-AP15's running max at 1850rpms is much quieter then these FF5's turned down to the lowest setting 40%@1600Rpm, Wish they made the F1 and F2's in all black, as i would of bought those instead, these fans are way to loud at 1600Rpm's going to sell these fans. I will say these fan push a lot of air tho even at 1600rpms but at the sacrifice of loud they are not worth in my application, computer sounds so loud on idle.
> 
> Also Red Sleeving is ugly to look at and the heat shrink does a crap job staying on the mobo header revealing its ugly colored wires, i like cosairs approach with all black wires and no sleeving!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bro, think about it...

NOTHING that has a max flow rate of 1850rpm is going to sound as loud as a fan that maxes @ 3000rpm. Not unless there is smoke pouring out of it at any rate.









~Ceadder


----------



## Malik




----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Is that a res or just a pump top for a res?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a res or just a pump top for a res?
Click to expand...

Looks like a top with an integrated micro-res.

The lid on the res looks like a regular tube could be added to it using a regular Bitspower tube coupler for expandability.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9898/ex-pmp-92/Bitspower_Mini_Water_Tank_Plus_DDC_Pump_Attachement_Reservoir_w_Filter_-_Acetal_Cap_BP-DDCT2-CL.html#blank

D,


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a res or just a pump top for a res?


This is pump with res


----------



## Turbz

That is so cute! Looks really nice. Nice photography too.


----------



## roniebravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice res+pump combo

I have put one in my prodigy m rig, it's so cute


----------



## WeirdHarold

Alright going to ask this in here as well since I'm likely to get the most responses in here









I want to use the Bitspower Multi Z Tube Res in the 150mm length

On the side of the Res that has the one hole in the center I'd like to use this fitting

to attach the Res to a pass through

in the case mid section.
The case is a CaseLabs S8.

Now do you all think that the 2 fittings and the end cap of the Res are strong enough that it will hold the Res attached via the Pass through to the case mid section panel? This means that the Res would be free standing and only attached by the fittings and supported at the top by the return line from the GPU Block and I'll be using Rigid Tubing.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I have the enthoo pro now and figured I just mod the case.


Really nice job you have done with a relatively cramped Pro.


----------



## electro2u

Been playing around with my new setup. Have a bay res as well as a tube. 2 d5s is overkill so I have them both set low. Really surprised and impressed by how the system works. I fill the bay res, start that pump, and then keep filling til it's full... No start stop. Then I just press the air pressure fitting at the top of the tube res, and it sucks a bunch of coolant from the bay. Refill the bay and done. It doesn't need to be tipped to bleed. awesome.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Wow you are like one of the few who have found a bay res to actually be _more_ convenient somehow especially when it comes to filling&#8230;though perhaps the rest of the system/config incl the other res makes some kind of difference.

I always liked the idea and looks of them and are a good space saver and all but ugh what a pain to deal with in practice starting with having enough slack to pull the damn thing out enough.


----------



## Turbz

@WeirdHarold Depends on the type of hardline fittings you are using. I am floating a reservoir of similar size in an S8, it's suspended from the rad above using monsoon hardlock fittings. No leakage/cracking so far, but only time will tell. As long as the hardline you are suspending the res from has no bends in it and the res is small, I would say go for it.


----------



## aerotracks

Made the switch from air to water on my bench table, better results to come









http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_8199-kopiep8rx4.jpg

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_8202-kopied4p2n.jpg


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> @WeirdHarold Depends on the type of hardline fittings you are using. I am floating a reservoir of similar size in an S8, it's suspended from the rad above using monsoon hardlock fittings. No leakage/cracking so far, but only time will tell. As long as the hardline you are suspending the res from has no bends in it and the res is small, I would say go for it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the response, I wasn't planning of suspending it, I was thinking of putting it about where your's is but the weight of the Res would be taken at the bottom of the res via the pass through the mid section of the case and the hard line return to the top would just add stability to the Res.

By the way that is a great looking build


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Thanks for the response, I wasn't planning of suspending it, I was thinking of putting it about where your's is but the weight of the Res would be taken at the bottom of the res via the pass through the mid section of the case and the hard line return to the top would just add stability to the Res.
> 
> By the way that is a great looking build


Thank you!

Ah right, I understand what you mean now. I would be wary about using a side port as the main reservoir support, reason being a full res will put lateral force on the threads and may cause the o-ring to fail, or in the worst case, strip the threading in the port, which would be a disaster. Given it's a small res the risk of failure is probably small. Definitely worth trying it out at least. Good luck.


----------



## szeged

ill ask here since the EK thread moves soooo slow.

What do you guys think, buy a rampage V monoblock or use my EK supremacy + rampage seperate waterblocks


----------



## sinnedone

I'm not a monoblock fan myself so I say go for the individual.

I can appreciate the simplicity of running one though. Just aesthetically I don't like it much.


----------



## szeged

only thing that bugs me is ek said they wanted to make a monoblock to cut back on having to buy more fittings and cluttering the cpu area with more fittings and tubing, but 4 extra fittings would cost roughly $20, but the non monoblock is $130 while the monoblock is $190...so much for cutting costs lol.


----------



## guitarhero23

Anybody think I could clean this staining out? And/Or how noticeable it would be if I just put the next color (Pastel Blue Berry) in it? Trying to figure out if this is worth buying used.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anybody think I could clean this staining out? And/Or how noticeable it would be if I just put the next color (Pastel Blue Berry) in it? Trying to figure out if this is worth buying used.


probably easily cleanable


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anybody think I could clean this staining out? And/Or how noticeable it would be if I just put the next color (Pastel Blue Berry) in it? Trying to figure out if this is worth buying used.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Probably just need to disassemble it and give a little soap+sponge to clean it good. Sometimes not even that is needed and just recirculating water on it would clean it. But you will not known a 100% sure until you try to clean. Ask the owner if was pastel red he was running or what sort of fluid. If it was pastel it will clean away quite easily.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ill ask here since the EK thread moves soooo slow.
> 
> What do you guys think, buy a rampage V monoblock or use my EK supremacy + rampage seperate waterblocks


I saw go with separate blocks purely for upgrade purposes. If you ever get a new mobo then you have to buy all new blocks for that specific board as opposed to only having to buy just a new mobo block


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I saw go with separate blocks purely for upgrade purposes. If you ever get a new mobo then you have to buy all new blocks for that specific board as opposed to only having to buy just a new mobo block


well i already got a supremacy so i could upgrade pretty easily anyways with it sitting in the desk for whenever i need it


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well i already got a supremacy so i could upgrade pretty easily anyways with it sitting in the desk for whenever i need it


well then in that case I say go for the monoblock if it's in the budget


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anybody think I could clean this staining out? And/Or how noticeable it would be if I just put the next color (Pastel Blue Berry) in it? Trying to figure out if this is worth buying used.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Choco-pump


MMMMmmmmm, Always wondered what kind of pump Golden Corral was using for their Chocolate Fountain.



Spoiler: Chocolate Wonderfall


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anybody think I could clean this staining out? And/Or how noticeable it would be if I just put the next color (Pastel Blue Berry) in it? Trying to figure out if this is worth buying used.


I think you can clean it out without a problem. I had bought a bitspower Uber d5 used and it had red dye used in it and I got the color our by scrubbing it with soap and hot water. If you don't mind me asking how much is he asking for the pump? I have the same one and absolutely love the thing. I love that you can put leds in the side and light it up!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> *Got a pack a package in the mail today!*
> 
> 
> 
> Got the two EKWB Vardar FF5 Fans and im not even remotely impressed with how loud they are, *GT-AP15's running max at 1850rpms is much quieter then these FF5's turned down to the lowest setting 40%@1600Rpm*, Wish they made the F1 and F2's in all black, as i would of bought those instead, these fans are way to loud at 1600Rpm's going to sell these fans. I will say these fan push a lot of air tho even at 1600rpms but at the sacrifice of loud they are not worth in my application, computer sounds so loud on idle.
> 
> Also Red Sleeving is ugly to look at and the heat shrink does a crap job staying on the mobo header revealing its ugly colored wires, i like cosairs approach with all black wires and no sleeving!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bro, think about it...
> 
> NOTHING that has a max flow rate of 1850rpm is going to sound as loud as a fan that maxes @ 3000rpm. Not unless there is smoke pouring out of it at any rate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

No Bro,you think about it.

The EK fan is running 150 rpm _slower_ than the AP 15 so a direct comparison can be made.

Please read the post.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> only thing that bugs me is ek said they wanted to make a monoblock to cut back on having to buy more fittings and cluttering the cpu area with more fittings and tubing, but 4 extra fittings would cost roughly $20, but the non monoblock is $130 while the monoblock is $190...*so much for cutting costs lol*.


lol yeah

I say go for whatever you like aesthetically or maybe to try something different. I personally dont like a big slab covering the cpu area and much rather have fittings and tube.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Wow you are like one of the few who have found a bay res to actually be _more_ convenient somehow especially when it comes to filling&#8230;though perhaps the rest of the system/config incl the other res makes some kind of difference.
> 
> I always liked the idea and looks of them and are a good space saver and all but ugh what a pain to deal with in practice starting with having enough slack to pull the damn thing out enough.


Well I'm using acrylic tubing and I would hate to have to pull it forward to fill anyway. Removing my aquaero from just above it is bad enough, but I don't have to anyway, was doing wiring up there and it was easier than filling the tube, but I can fill using he tube res and that pump.

















Had to scrap a Aquacomputer flow meter that was making horrible noises and was really restrictive. Got the bitspower flow/sensor instead. Seems to run on the aquaero the same as the high flow did. Plus it is a visual indicator. Had to put that on and remembered the temp sensors.









Have a nemesis gtx 280 and 360 to switch in the next time I get bored.









What do you guys think of the coolant color and lighting? The whole thing is tacky I suppose, but given the auto flashy type theme I'm pretty satisfied.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> only thing that bugs me is ek said they wanted to make a monoblock to cut back on having to buy more fittings and cluttering the cpu area with more fittings and tubing, but 4 extra fittings would cost roughly $20, but the non monoblock is $130 while the monoblock is $190...so much for cutting costs lol.


That's just for the motherboard blocks though, you haven't added in the cost of the CPU block in there. It comes out to $190+ depending on what EK block you add so there's the savings already. But for me the major attraction is having only 2 tube/fittings in there to make plumbing a lot easier/cleaner.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's just for the motherboard blocks though, you haven't added in the cost of the CPU block in there. It comes out to $190+ depending on what EK block you add so there's the savings already. But for me the major attraction is having only 2 tube/fittings in there to make plumbing a lot easier/cleaner.


i was going off without a supremacy since i already had one lol, i guess its a price saver if its their first time watercooling but who cares about those noobs? lol im kidding of course. im leaning to monoblock atm because i have a nice vision of it + ram blocks + 3 gpu blocks if the kingpin blocks ever get released this year.


----------



## KuuFA

I would Go mono block and sell the supremacy if needed. Like everyone else said it makes plumbing a lot easier. If they had one for my MVE i would buy it.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Finally got my second card added into the loop


----------



## szeged

pulled the trigger

rebuild of the sth10 incoming, just waiting on EK to gimme some gpu blocks and i can begin.



also gotta order a LOT of fittings some time when PPCS gets more in stock.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Finally got my second card added into the loop


What cards are those and can I ask who did your custom cables if not you?

Also I've got a question guys. I bought some mayhems uv Lazer green dye, I added two drops to the loop and it deffinatly gave it a nice glow. But I have an ek monarch x4 ram Waterblock and I would really like to see the green uv glow from the coolant through the block. Do you think if I added the whole bottle I could achieve this? I don't want to waste it as its pretty expensive. I also ordered so ek uv green coolant that I think will match the build better but If I can achieve the green I want with the dye I'll just save the coolant for a later date.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> lol yeah
> 
> I say go for whatever you like aesthetically or maybe to try something different. *I personally dont like a big slab covering the cpu area* and much rather have fittings and tube.


So Much This ^

TCO


----------



## wermad

Looks like a wohwihpop







.

Done with my rig. The pain...it's worth it







. No leaks so far. Fans were a pita to install but everything went fine.

Clean up time and then off to type up a log...


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> What cards are those and can I ask who did your custom cables if not you?
> 
> Also I've got a question guys. I bought some mayhems uv Lazer green dye, I added two drops to the loop and it deffinatly gave it a nice glow. But I have an ek monarch x4 ram Waterblock and I would really like to see the green uv glow from the coolant through the block. Do you think if I added the whole bottle I could achieve this? I don't want to waste it as its pretty expensive. I also ordered so ek uv green coolant that I think will match the build better but If I can achieve the green I want with the dye I'll just save the coolant for a later date.


They are 780Ti reference cards, and cables were done by Ensourced







.

For your question, I would just keep adding drops of the dye until you get the desired effect.


----------



## DoktorTerror

for a full control




http://www.overclock.net/t/1509085/sponsored-new-line-orange-update-pag-4-aquaero-base/60_20#post_23625075


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> They are 780Ti reference cards, and cables were done by Ensourced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> For your question, I would just keep adding drops of the dye until you get the desired effect.


Wow he did an awsome job. I completely forgot about that guy. Will deffinatly be ordering the undead paracord version. There is nothing like it anywhere and it matches my build perfectly. A little pricey for the 24 pin and 4 8 pins but that's how it goes if you want quality. How long are your extentions did you go for the 60mm long ones?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Wow he did an awsome job. I completely forgot about that guy. Will deffinatly be ordering the undead paracord version. There is nothing like it anywhere and it matches my build perfectly. A little pricey for the 24 pin and 4 8 pins but that's how it goes if you want quality. How long are your extentions did you go for the 60mm long ones?


His quality is top notch







. I asked him which of his grays matched CaseLabs' gunmetal best and he went the extra mile and sent me a sample of the paracords to make sure I got the match I wanted. I went with 70cm for the GPU extensions. Admittedly it's a lot longer than necessary, but I like the length.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> His quality is top notch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I asked him which of his grays matched CaseLabs' gunmetal best and he went the extra mile and sent me a sample of the paracords to make sure I got the match I wanted. I went with 70cm for the GPU extensions. Admittedly it's a lot longer than necessary, but I like the length.


So I could probably get away with 50cm extentions all the way around then? Also do they come with cable combs or do I have to buy them seperate.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> His quality is top notch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I asked him which of his grays matched CaseLabs' gunmetal best and he went the extra mile and sent me a sample of the paracords to make sure I got the match I wanted. I went with 70cm for the GPU extensions. Admittedly it's a lot longer than necessary, but I like the length.


It is looking great mate the whole thing and the cables. Just for the record which gray was the best match with gunmetal?

*edit - btw those are Alpenföhn 120mm Wing Boost 2 Plus PWM Fan - Red? Did you paint the frame in grey?*


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> So I could probably get away with 50cm extentions all the way around then? Also do they come with cable combs or do I have to buy them seperate.


My advice would be to take a length of string (or something) about the length that you are thinking of and run it from the back of your case to where you want to go to give yourself an idea of what you would be working with. Each cable comes with a comb (he calls them wire wraps on his site) you just pick your color. Hope that helps







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is looking great mate the whole thing and the cables. Just for the record which gray was the best match with gunmetal?


Thanks







. His Charcoal Gray is the one I went with, it's spot on.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> *Got a pack a package in the mail today!*
> 
> 
> 
> Got the two EKWB Vardar FF5 Fans and im not even remotely impressed with how loud they are, *GT-AP15's running max at 1850rpms is much quieter then these FF5's turned down to the lowest setting 40%@1600Rpm*, Wish they made the F1 and F2's in all black, as i would of bought those instead, these fans are way to loud at 1600Rpm's going to sell these fans. I will say these fan push a lot of air tho even at 1600rpms but at the sacrifice of loud they are not worth in my application, computer sounds so loud on idle.
> 
> Also Red Sleeving is ugly to look at and the heat shrink does a crap job staying on the mobo header revealing its ugly colored wires, i like cosairs approach with all black wires and no sleeving!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bro, think about it...
> 
> NOTHING that has a max flow rate of 1850rpm is going to sound as loud as a fan that maxes @ 3000rpm. Not unless there is smoke pouring out of it at any rate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No Bro,you think about it.
> 
> The EK fan is running 150 rpm _slower_ than the AP 15 so a direct comparison can be made.
> 
> Please read the post.
Click to expand...

B, bro, I think that you are wrong here. Those Vardars are ALL black. All blacks are of the 3000rpm variety.









I could be wrong of course but I won't quibble over it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> B, bro, I think that you are wrong here. Those Vardars are ALL black. All blacks are of the 3000rpm variety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could be wrong of course but I won't quibble over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What part of "_GT-AP15's running max at 1850rpms is much quieter then these FF5's turned down to the lowest setting 40%@1600Rpm_" did you have trouble understanding? How would it matter what the EK fan's max speed is? Hint: It doesn't.


----------



## Roxycon

Need a res (any suggestions?), placements of the pumps, drain and fill port and the three last fans







smaller form factor is a PITA but really rewarding as it's the most beautiful system I've owned to date









What do you guy's think?


----------



## Ceadderman

I didn't have trouble understanding a bleedin thing Uni. Trust me I understand more than you think. Such as those fans were tested in Case mode not Rad mode. Of course if you didn't see this (elsewhere on OCN) you didn't know this. Of course they're gonna be noisy. I am neither defending EK nor taking the Wizz out of anybody. I'm just suggesting that undervolted fans cannot hope to compare to lower rpm units. *Especially* compared to GTs' Right? What is it that makes you assume what I said to be wrong?









My point is still valid even if it's misunderstood.









Edit: It does matter if the balance of the hubs are different. Different manufactures. But hey I feel you.

~Ceadder


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Added about 15 drops of mayhems uv Lazer green dye to my loop and I can finnally see the uv green through my ram waterblock. Also added two 3mm uv leds to accent the block a little bit more since the rest of my blocks are black and nickel and you can't see through them. I think I still have a bunch of the mayhems dye left to use in my other build. This stuff worked ten times better than I expected.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I didn't have trouble understanding a bleedin thing Uni. Trust me I understand more than you think. Such as those fans were tested in Case mode not Rad mode. Of course if you didn't see this (elsewhere on OCN) you didn't know this. Of course they're gonna be noisy. I am neither defending EK nor taking the Wizz out of anybody. I'm just suggesting that undervolted fans cannot hope to compare to lower rpm units. *Especially* compared to GTs' Right? What is it that makes you assume what I said to be wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My point is still valid even if it's misunderstood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


PWM fans are not undervolted,PWM runs at 12v and is speed controlled on the fan,there is no noise penalty with PWM.

You were wrong.

Case mode? Rad mode? What are you talking about? The noise applies to his use,it matters not how they were being used. You didnt make a suggestion,you made a 'fact' comment quoting someone else and you didnt read/understand the post.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Added about 15 drops of mayhems uv Lazer green dye to my loop and I can finnally see the uv green through my ram waterblock. Also added two 3mm uv leds to accent the block a little bit more since the rest of my blocks are black and nickel and you can't see through them. I think I still have a bunch of the mayhems dye left to use in my other build. This stuff worked ten times better than I expected.


You would get a better UV effect with CFL's


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You would get a better UV effect with CFL's


I've got cold cathodes already and was thinking about getting a darkside led kit..but they are suprisingly not cheap.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The DarkSide kits are really good and bright I can say that much about them


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> The DarkSide kits are really good and bright I can say that much about them


I'll deffinatly buy a set if the cold cathodes don't work out in the build I'm redoing monday..assuming my new 690 waterblock arrives!


----------



## wermad

Finished


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished


Really hard to see any way we could get some more pictures?


----------



## wermad

Fingerprints....









edit: btw, when you quote a persons post, type outside the quote brackets ("[ / Q u o t e] ..."). That way, your response is separated from the person's quote/post.


----------



## VSG

Nicely done


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Wow great job!! I was wondering what it would look like when you were done! I'm loving the 3 most rads lol. I bet the temps are amazing. It's hard to see in the pics are you running just a single d5 or is there another one in there somewhere?

I know it doesn't help mow thst you have 2 blocks on your 295x2s but ppcs.com has the koolance blocks on sale for 100 bucks I almost picked one up in case I ever decide to buy one. I know they will come down in price when the 3xx series comes out.

What's the performance like have you ran any benchmarks yet?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question (I hope) for you guys run away its me again

I got about 780ml of water in my current loop and it sounds like its full but I'm not sure, does it seem like the right amount to you?

Loop, 8cm res, XSPC Multiport rad, 240 & 360, EK CPU and GPU block



Spoiler: Loop Pic







Filled it from the top rad with about 750ml till the res was full and it wouldnt take any more then maxed the pump and let it bleed till the water level was almost under the internal pipe then filled it again with another 30ml, the pumps still running maxed and its pretty silent atm, picked the case up and it didnt sound like any water was sloshing around like last time (cant really shake it around much tho my wrist is stuffed







) and when I press the air exhaust valve on the top water shoots out

Thanks


----------



## wermad

@jesusnadinosaur

Yeah, I got them at that price. Setting up the os so no performance figures. The Monsta were a very close fit....


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I didn't have trouble understanding a bleedin thing Uni. Trust me I understand more than you think. Such as those fans were tested in Case mode not Rad mode. Of course if you didn't see this (elsewhere on OCN) you didn't know this. Of course they're gonna be noisy. I am neither defending EK nor taking the Wizz out of anybody. I'm just suggesting that undervolted fans cannot hope to compare to lower rpm units. *Especially* compared to GTs' Right? What is it that makes you assume what I said to be wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My point is still valid even if it's misunderstood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: It does matter if the balance of the hubs are different. Different manufactures. But hey I feel you.
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was testing the fan for noise usage, the AIO cooler im waiting on isn't released yet, so i mounted it in the only 120mm slot on my case.. At the FF5's lowest speed 1600Rpms for my usage on idle was extremely loud, but the pc on load and or playing music and it starts to drown it out but still very noticeable .... but like i said its way to loud for when im sitting beside my computer or laying on my bed (PC is beside my bed) with the PC on idle. putting a rad on it is not going to magically make it that much quieter. As others have quoted *"GT-AP15's running max at 1850rpms is much quieter then these FF5's turned down to the lowest setting 40%@1600Rpm"* .

Go buy a pair for yourself throw em on rad and test them at 1600rpms vs AP15s @1850rpms and you will agree its louder.

Anyways might be perfect fan for someone else, who doesn't have such a quiet environment, or sleeps in the same room as there PC, or maybe for someone who isn't as sensitive to sounds.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I was testing the fan for noise usage, the AIO cooler im waiting on isn't released yet, so i mounted it in the only 120mm slot on my case.. At the FF5's lowest speed 1600Rpms for my usage on idle was extremely loud, but the pc on load and or playing music and it starts to drown it out but still very noticeable .... but like i said its way to loud for when im sitting beside my computer or laying on my bed (PC is beside my bed) with the PC on idle. putting a rad on it is not going to magically make it that much quieter. As others have quoted *"GT-AP15's running max at 1850rpms is much quieter then these FF5's turned down to the lowest setting 40%@1600Rpm"* .
> 
> Go buy a pair for yourself throw em on rad and test them at 1600rpms vs AP15s @1850rpms and you will agree its louder.
> 
> Anyways might be perfect fan for someone else, who doesn't have such a quiet environment, or sleeps in the same room as there PC, or maybe for someone who isn't as sensitive to sounds.


Glad I got AP-45s then. Too bad my pumps are the loudest thing in my kit.


----------



## DarthBaggins

About to be very busy


----------



## fleetfeather

Ready for any 92mm fan mount









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## VSG

Looks like Mayhems is working on another option for DEHP free soft tubing with a potential stain cleaning trick up its sleeve: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-desolation-ultra-clear-tubing-1-2-3-4-19-13mm-tubing.html
Quote:


> Mayhems Desolation Ultra Clear Tubing is the new standard of Ultra-Clear tubing from Mayhems. Our new flexible liquid cooling tubing surpasses all new high EU standards that are coming into effect and uses new Polymer Additives that do not leach plasticizers into the system causing fouling and blockages. Mayhems Desolation Ultra-Clear Does not use any Phthalate materials again aiding in a higher quality tubing. Mayhems has worked very closely with a leading tubing manufacture with in the UK to bring you this high grade product so you no longer have to take a chance with subpar tubing any more.
> 
> Mayhems Desolation Ultra Clear Tubing has a little secret up it arm as well, if the tubing clouds you can restore it to its Ultra Clear state (just like new / selfheal technology), more information will be forth coming on release.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like Mayhems is working on another option for DEHP free soft tubing with a potential stain cleaning trick up its sleeve: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-desolation-ultra-clear-tubing-1-2-3-4-19-13mm-tubing.html


for a while now. The only caveat is that still present yellowing/staining on the tube itself, or at least is what Mayhems reported in his thread.

@fleetfeather, beautiful mate. A custom reservoir for a SFF case?










edit - oh yeah and there are some new non-staining dyes that Mayhems just launched and might be of interest to people here.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> for a while now. The only caveat is that still present yellowing/staining on the tube itself, or at least is what Mayhems reported in his thread.


Right, so that's why I was wondering what that thing at the end was all about.


----------



## charliebrown

OK so I ordered a xspc 480 rad from sidewinders on Feb 22nd on the 27th they emailed me like we out of stock on those I said so you took 5 days to email me so he says I will deep discount any other I said OK give me a MCR 320 he said cool I throw in some fittings that was the 27th still no radiator and they only have email support which nobody replies now

What should I do its a $100 order


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> OK so I ordered a xspc 480 rad from sidewinders on Feb 22nd on the 27th they emailed me like we out of stock on those I said so you took 5 days to email me so he says I will deep discount any other I said OK give me a MCR 320 he said cool I throw in some fittings that was the 27th still no radiator and they only have email support which nobody replies now
> 
> What should I do its a $100 order


give em some time, sidewinder is a one man show with a little help on the side and with FCPU taking a dump in their pants i bet the amount of orders he got increased a lot.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> give em some time, sidewinder is a one man show with a little help on the side and with FCPU taking a dump in their pants i bet the amount of orders he got increased a lot.


Yes this seems to be the general consensus with every website that carries watercooling gear. Even ordering from performance pcs take alot longer for this exact reason.


----------



## szeged

i just placed a $1k order with ppcs and it took 20 something hours for them just to process it and ppcs is one of the bigger companies out there, gotta give the man some time


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i just placed a $1k order with ppcs and it took 20 something hours for them just to process it and ppcs is one of the bigger companies out there, gotta give the man some time


Must have taken your an hour to place it as well


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Must have taken your an hour to place it as well


more than that lol.


----------



## wermad

Gary is a great dude, very helpful and fast when responding. its a small shop so it doesn't move as fast tbh. He does sell through amazon and offers most items w/ free shipping (a slight markup from the site's pricing). I needed some last minute fittings a while back and it was faster and cheaper via amazon-sidewinder then ppcs.com (SWC is in Indiana i believe).

Btw, those wondering why there is no EK hardware? SWC and EK had a fallout when the EK "nickel-gate" fiasco was occurring (circa 2011).


----------



## charliebrown

OK I'll wait didn't think about frozencpu traffic backing them up

Yeah and I'm in Michigan that's why I'm like what's going on its 4 hours away


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> OK I'll wait didn't think about frozencpu traffic backing them up
> 
> Yeah and I'm in Michigan that's why I'm like what's going on its 4 hours away


Nice I'm in michigan too! I hate that all my favorite websites I buy from are always on the other side of the country. I didn't know sidewinder was in michigan I'll have to keep that in mind as I'm very impatient when I comes to waiting for parts.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> OK I'll wait didn't think about frozencpu traffic backing them up
> 
> Yeah and I'm in Michigan that's why I'm like what's going on its 4 hours away


This does sounds a little odd regardless (and you are rightly concerned) but lets still give Gary the benefit of the doubt for now. Hopefully it shows soon. The fact he offered the discount and the fittings shows what kind of guy he is.


----------



## Everendless

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







i7 950 @ 4 ghz
2 X MSI R9 290 Twin Frizr 4gb
24g Corsair vengence
Corsair 850w
2 X OCZ Vertex
Blablahblah
Coolermaster HAF XB Evo case

Xspc raystorm ex240 rad
x20 750 dual bay res/pump
rx120 rad

Soon to have the R9 290s on EK waterblocks next week. and adding a Primochill CTR Phase II res.
I have a few problems I need to figure out but right now the temps on the the cpu are 49c at 100% load. Not to bad.

1st gen i7 still kicking butts!
Cheers!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Gary is a great dude, very helpful and fast when responding. its a small shop so it doesn't move as fast tbh. He does sell through amazon and offers most items w/ free shipping (a slight markup from the site's pricing). I needed some last minute fittings a while back and it was faster and cheaper via amazon-sidewinder then ppcs.com (SWC is in Indiana i believe).


in franklin, which is just southwest of indy. he drives into downtown indy to mail out all orders.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Btw, those wondering why there is no EK hardware? SWC and EK had a fallout when the EK "nickel-gate" fiasco was occurring (circa 2011).


gary was chroming ek blocks and it ticked off ek. gary basically told him fine, i wont sell your stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Nice I'm in michigan too! I hate that all my favorite websites I buy from are always on the other side of the country. I didn't know sidewinder was in michigan I'll have to keep that in mind as I'm very impatient when I comes to waiting for parts.


no, they arent in michigan...

*EDIT* btw, gary didnt raise his prices on the gentle typhoons when it was announced that scythe and nidec servo were done doing business. as was said, just give him time. do you have any idea how much his business has increased with fcpu going down? sidewinder is a 1 man army now.


----------



## Nomadskid

Edit: I fixed it, just needed a few vigorous shakes to break an air block lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> I need help! My pump won't circulate liquid and I need to present this pc tomorrow at ISEF. I'm using the Swiftech maelstrom pump and res combo with Mayhems pastel liquid the pump is getting power


check in and out of the pump and connections. Are you using this?

http://www.swiftech.com/MaelstromBayRes.aspx


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> gary was chroming ek blocks and it ticked off ek. gary basically told him fine, i wont sell your stuff.


Rumor has it Gary supplied the nickel blocks to the independent user group that did the testing after ek had done their testing on the nickel failure. Eddie (EK himself) was upset and threatened to take legal action if he didn't hand over a few grand. Gary refused and EK pulled their products from SWC. Well, that's how recall I heard the nasty fall out.


----------



## charliebrown

He was really nice but still i told him if it does not show by Wednesday I'll just take a refund can't wait longer than 2 1/2 weeks


----------



## Malik




----------



## wermad

Gorgeous







. Wish i had these photo taking skills









Damn, really hard to purge out the air this time. Seems like i can hear a few bubbles rushing throw the pump.


----------



## szeged

i dont have the patience for photo editing software =\


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got a probably really stupid question but...

I rebuilt, filled and let my system bleed over night (D5 maxed the whole time) then looked at it just before and realized 2 of the damn clamps are missing (got no idea where they are) was thinking of using zip ties on the tubes to hold them on the barbs

Would it be ok to use the zip ties instead of clamps for the next year or so? (providing the damn thing works this time)

Thanks


----------



## wermad

some folks still use them. I would leak test again after installing the ties if I were you.

My setup was heating up a bit. Didn't like the 50°C idle of all four gpu cores. Managed to lift this pig on top of my desk and dropped 20°C! Best and cheapest upgrade evah! (until I get the chiropractor bill







).


----------



## fleetfeather

ive seen zip ties used in the past


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> gary was chroming ek blocks and it ticked off ek. gary basically told him fine, i wont sell your stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Rumor has it Gary supplied the nickel blocks to RRT that did the testing after ek had done their testing on the nickel failure. Eddie (EK himself) was upset and threatened to take legal action if he didn't hand over a few grand. Gary refused and EK pulled their products from SWC. Well, that's how recall I heard the nasty fall out.
Click to expand...

FTFY.

Eddy didnt like Gary supplying the blocks to Red at RRT for the block testing,things got heavy and Gary stuck to his ethic's. If I was in the US,only Sidewinders would get my money.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some folks still use them. I would leak test again after installing the ties if I were you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> ive seen zip ties used in the past


Thanks guys









I think I should be good on leaks, I ran the pump maxed out for a little over 24h before I realized I was missing the clamps and I had no leaks (my tubes are a few mm to long tho so that could be why)


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Since frozencpu is down and out. Where is the next best place in the USA to buy watercooling parts... Thinkin in the next few weeks to start ordering parts? Im wanting to start out kinda small.. CPU and a GPU. Was thinking of doing a thicker 420rad. After I get a 2nd 780ti classy Id add a monsta 280 rad to this.. So how much do ya'll recken this startup would cost. Not wanting to spend over $400 If i have dont have to. This will be going in a Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra. U can see the size in my avatar pic.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Rumor has it Gary supplied the nickel blocks to the independent user group that did the testing after ek had done their testing on the nickel failure. Eddie (EK himself) was upset and threatened to take legal action if he didn't hand over a few grand. Gary refused and EK pulled their products from SWC. Well, that's how recall I heard the nasty fall out.


Wow seems pretty ridiculous that ek would demand money for something like this. It doesn't even make sense at all.. I mean I get that he's bad because he went behind his back but jeeze. I would have been completely offended to and I can't say I wouldn't have done the same thing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should be good on leaks, I ran the pump maxed out for a little over 24h before I realized I was missing the clamps and I had no leaks (my tubes are a few mm to long tho so that could be why)


You never know and could end up disturbing the tube/fitting either by accident or by choice. A leak test is nothing compared to dead hardware (and the ensuing tears)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Since frozencpu is down and out. Where is the next best place in the USA to buy watercooling parts... Thinkin in the next few weeks to start ordering parts? Im wanting to start out kinda small.. CPU and a GPU. Was thinking of doing a thicker 420rad. After I get a 2nd 780ti classy Id add a monsta 280 rad to this.. So how much do ya'll recken this startup would cost. Not wanting to spend over $400 If i have dont have to. This will be going in a Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra. U can see the size in my avatar pic.


PPcs.com is your best choice.

A full custom loop will typically run your $300-500 to start! You can always go with a kit and add your gpu:

xspc ex420/d5-bay/raystorm ~$250 + gpu block (~$125), + fans, + fittings for the gpu block, you're right ~$400

Alternatively, look for used and you maybe able to pull off the loop with great components at or under your budget.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Wow seems pretty ridiculous that ek would demand money for something like this. It doesn't even make sense at all.. I mean I get that he's bad because he went behind his back but jeeze. I would have been completely offended to and I can't say I wouldn't have done the same thing.


From what I recall on the theories, Eddie felt Gary had thrown him under the bus and his business was gonna suffer (it was already suffering). He was looking for compensation from what seems like a defamation claim (no legal action was taken I believe). Anyways, Ek was pretty much the golden boy at that time. i was ridiculed viciously at xtremesystems.org (home of ek the do-no-wrong) when i brought forward my claim of several defective blocks and how ek could not solve this. Ocn was much more open and grateful for what I and others (like Gary and the redrider gang) were doing. I believe even BNegative had input in this. I ended up going with HK and eventually was able to return after the dust settled w/ CSQ (and the crop-circle started!).

Today, they're a great company and have done a complete 180 from what it was in 2011. No need to fear for those who read this and are concerned


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Since frozencpu is down and out. Where is the next best place in the USA to buy watercooling parts... Thinkin in the next few weeks to start ordering parts? Im wanting to start out kinda small.. CPU and a GPU. Was thinking of doing a thicker 420rad. After I get a 2nd 780ti classy Id add a monsta 280 rad to this.. So how much do ya'll recken this startup would cost. Not wanting to spend over $400 If i have dont have to. This will be going in a Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra. U can see the size in my avatar pic.


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.aquatuning.us/
http://www.performance-pcs.com/

I feel like I am missing another obvious one...

Well I wouldn't get Bitspower fittings if you want to keep a budget







. There is always the used market here when it comes to cooling parts as well to save some $. The GPU blocks can be expensive and since you have the Classified you are limited to just EK or a universal block, which are both good options.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should be good on leaks, I ran the pump maxed out for a little over 24h before I realized I was missing the clamps and I had no leaks (my tubes are a few mm to long tho so that could be why)
> 
> 
> 
> You never know and could end up disturbing the tube/fitting either by accident or by choice. A leak test is nothing compared to dead hardware (and the ensuing tears)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Since frozencpu is down and out. Where is the next best place in the USA to buy watercooling parts... Thinkin in the next few weeks to start ordering parts? Im wanting to start out kinda small.. CPU and a GPU. Was thinking of doing a thicker 420rad. After I get a 2nd 780ti classy Id add a monsta 280 rad to this.. So how much do ya'll recken this startup would cost. Not wanting to spend over $400 If i have dont have to. This will be going in a Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra. U can see the size in my avatar pic.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> PPcs.com is your best choice.
> 
> A full custom loop will typically run your $300-500 to start! You can always go with a kit and add your gpu:
> 
> xspc ex420/d5-bay/raystorm ~$250 + gpu block (~$125), + fans, + fittings for the gpu block, you're right ~$400
> 
> Alternatively, look for used and you maybe able to pull off the loop with great components at or under your budget.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Wow seems pretty ridiculous that ek would demand money for something like this. It doesn't even make sense at all.. I mean I get that he's bad because he went behind his back but jeeze. I would have been completely offended to and I can't say I wouldn't have done the same thing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> From what I recall on the theories, Eddie felt Gary had thrown him under the bus and his business was gonna suffer (it was already suffering). He was looking for compensation from what seems like a defamation claim (no legal action was taken I believe). Anyways, Ek was pretty much the golden boy at that time. i was ridiculed viciously at xtremesystems.org (home of ek the do-no-wrong) when i brought forward my claim of several defective blocks and how ek could not solve this. Ocn was much more open and grateful for what I and others (like Gary and the redrider gang) were doing. I believe even BNegative had input in this. I ended up going with HK and eventually was able to return after the dust settled w/ CSQ (and the crop-circle started!).
> 
> *Today, they're a great company and have done a complete 180 from what it was in 2011.* No need to fear for those who read this and are concerned
Click to expand...

And this.

EK have matured massively as a company,much more professional in outlook and behavior.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FTFY.
> 
> Eddy didnt like Gary supplying the blocks to Red at RRT for the block testing,things got heavy and Gary stuck to his ethic's. If I was in the US,only Sidewinders would get my money.


Someone brought up Eddy demanded $10k usd or Gary and SWC were going to court. Obviously it was a bluff but I'm definitely with Gary on not giving in to a manufacturer's pressure to turn on the customers. In the end, Ek just pulled out from SWC and both parted ways.

Btw, forgot what you're role was with the red team in the testing??? I saw your name come up frequently on their threads.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FTFY.
> 
> Eddy didnt like Gary supplying the blocks to Red at RRT for the block testing,things got heavy and Gary stuck to his ethic's. If I was in the US,only Sidewinders would get my money.
> 
> 
> 
> Someone brought up Eddy demanded $10k usd or Gary and SWC were going to court. Obviously it was a bluff but I'm definitely with Gary on not giving in to a manufacturer's pressure to turn on the customers. In the end, Ek just pulled out from SWC and both parted ways.
> 
> Btw, forgot what you're role was with the red team in the testing??? I saw your name come up frequently on their threads.
Click to expand...

Nothing major,Rubi was running that one,he is vastly more qualified (Nuc Phys-MIT) than me (Jesse Pinkman-METH),he taught me a lot regarding plating interactions.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nothing major,Rubi was running that one,he is vastly more qualified (Nuc Phys-MIT) than me (Jesse Pinkman-METH),he taught me a lot regarding plating interactions.












edit: just reading the threads kicked up my cranium knowledge-database







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I didn't have trouble understanding a bleedin thing Uni. Trust me I understand more than you think. Such as those fans were tested in Case mode not Rad mode. Of course if you didn't see this (elsewhere on OCN) you didn't know this. Of course they're gonna be noisy. I am neither defending EK nor taking the Wizz out of anybody. I'm just suggesting that undervolted fans cannot hope to compare to lower rpm units. *Especially* compared to GTs' Right? What is it that makes you assume what I said to be wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My point is still valid even if it's misunderstood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: It does matter if the balance of the hubs are different. Different manufactures. But hey I feel you.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was testing the fan for noise usage, the AIO cooler im waiting on isn't released yet, so i mounted it in the only 120mm slot on my case.. At the FF5's lowest speed 1600Rpms for my usage on idle was extremely loud, but the pc on load and or playing music and it starts to drown it out but still very noticeable .... but like i said its way to loud for when im sitting beside my computer or laying on my bed (PC is beside my bed) with the PC on idle. putting a rad on it is not going to magically make it that much quieter. As others have quoted *"GT-AP15's running max at 1850rpms is much quieter then these FF5's turned down to the lowest setting 40%@1600Rpm"* .
> 
> Go buy a pair for yourself throw em on rad and test them at 1600rpms vs AP15s @1850rpms and you will agree its louder.
> 
> Anyways might be perfect fan for someone else, who doesn't have such a quiet environment, or sleeps in the same room as there PC, or maybe for someone who isn't as sensitive to sounds.
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry, I guess I should just suggested going with the Vardar Mids over the Highs. Yes I get the smexxiness of the black hub but painting/dying them isn't all that difficult. And I get that sleeping in the same room with your system requires quiter fans. Tell you what, if you are not gonna keep those Vards I would gladly take em off your hands. I'm gonna be getting some more fans here in the not too distant future and the sound of fans puts me to sleep like a baby. They're kinda like white noise for me.









I have a feeling filling my loop once it's updated is gonna ber uh fun...









1 horizontal Rad in the top and two vertical Rads up front. Yay me.









~Ceadder


----------



## kisakeissi

Got my Evga GTX 980 Hydro Copper installed few days ago. Still a lot of air in loop and reservoirs are not full enough. Will fix it next time I go under the hood


----------



## guitarhero23

Sweet build!


----------



## tecuarenta

very nice desk!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah sorry, I guess I should just suggested going with the Vardar Mids over the Highs. Yes I get the smexxiness of the black hub but painting/dying them isn't all that difficult. And I get that sleeping in the same room with your system requires quiter fans. Tell you what, if you are not gonna keep those Vards I would gladly take em off your hands. I'm gonna be getting some more fans here in the not too distant future and the sound of fans puts me to sleep like a baby. They're kinda like white noise for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a feeling filling my loop once it's updated is gonna ber uh fun...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 horizontal Rad in the top and two vertical Rads up front. Yay me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well if your truly interested in them Pm me and we can talk


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a res (any suggestions?), placements of the pumps, drain and fill port and the three last fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> smaller form factor is a PITA but really rewarding as it's the most beautiful system I've owned to date
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guy's think?


I was really happy with my pump/res mounting location.



Alphacool lighttower
Alphacool HF pump top
Alphacool Universal Pump Mount
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Since frozencpu is down and out. Where is the next best place in the USA to buy watercooling parts.....


What do you mean down and out? Site is running... parts say ships today till 6pm....


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> What do you mean down and out? Site is running... parts say ships today till 6pm....


FrozenCPU is out of business.The site just hasnt been taken down yet because there's no one to do so. From what I understand all employees were fired instantly.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> FrozenCPU is out of business.The site just hasnt been taken down yet because there's no one to do so. From what I understand all employees were fired instantly.


I disagree.



The Cautious ONe


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I disagree.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Seems like I missed that one. Thanks for correcting me.


----------



## 5136614




----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> I was really happy with my pump/res mounting location.


Ditch'ed both my D5 setup and my backup plan with dual dcp2.2's for a ddc and tube res







hope that'l fit


----------



## gamerking

just finished leak testing got my 970 water cooled hopefully i get a second one soon =)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



only took 6 months blame fedex playing football with my package then refusing to do anything for 2 months


got a question for anyone with a bitspower top and res mod adapter the input on the top can it be used for the res/pump or do i just leave it the way i have it atm .
i ended up a compression short dam thing was cross threaded so its trash 1 of of 2 of ek's new compressions . don't really like them need to pull the tube off if it get loose for any reason .
funny thing i found if any one lives near a micro center they have a replacement plan on ek coolants for 2 bucks you get a refill . so it beats spending 17$ per bottle went and spent four more bucks and got 2 more bottles ,sadly they get there parts for water cooling from frozencpu which is nearly dead was told when they run out there out .


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> just finished leak testing got my 970 water cooled hopefully i get a second one soon =)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> only took 6 months blame fedex playing football with my package then refusing to do anything for 2 months
> 
> 
> got a question for anyone with a bitspower top and res mod adapter the input on the top can it be used for the res/pump or do i just leave it the way i have it atm .
> i ended up a compression short dam thing was cross threaded so its trash 1 of of 2 of ek's new compressions . don't really like them need to pull the tube off if it get loose for any reason .
> funny thing i found if any one lives near a micro center they have a replacement plan on ek coolants for 2 bucks you get a refill . so it beats spending 17$ per bottle went and spent four more bucks and got 2 more bottles ,sadly they get there parts for water cooling from frozencpu which is nearly dead was told when they run out there out .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've got the bitspower mod top on mine. But from the pics I can't see how you have it hooked up. Can you take a closer up pic of it?


----------



## Gilles3000

Does anyone know where to get bitspower waterblocks in Europe?


----------



## Domiro

http://www.highflow.nl/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> FrozenCPU is out of business.The site just hasnt been taken down yet because there's no one to do so. From what I understand all employees were fired instantly.
> 
> 
> 
> I disagree.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Actually, I believe that Frozen is done.

There was notification of this (after Friga posted that) from one of the Employees who posted pics of the shop as proof. There was even a busted up Bill Owen case/benchtop laying in one of the corners. So imho, I would not hold my breath that Frozen bounces back from this debacle. It's highly unlikely. If it happens, I'm not sure that they will be around long.









~Ceadder


----------



## jamaican voodoo

here what ive been cooking up hope you all likes it








boycotting apple.


----------



## Ceadderman

Water cooled iMac?









~Ceadder


----------



## jamaican voodoo

nah its a pc i just put apple logo for giggles. case is a NZXT S340


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Alright boys 15 minutes of work and these are the results. Turned out better than it did last time. I think this was the perfect choice in polish. I'm sure I could make it a little better with 4000 grit but I'm happy with it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually, I believe that Frozen is done.
> 
> There was notification of this (after Friga posted that) from one of the Employees who posted pics of the shop as proof. There was even a busted up Bill Owen case/benchtop laying in one of the corners. So imho, I would not hold my breath that Frozen bounces back from this debacle. It's highly unlikely. If it happens, I'm not sure that they will be around long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Im trying to be optimistic Bro.









TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@jesusnadinosaur Please Read this

The Cautious ONe

SOrry For the Double Post Everyone. Thought I was in my Previous.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @jesusnadinosaur Please Read this
> 
> The Cautious ONe
> 
> SOrry For the Double Post Everyone. Thought I was in my Previous.


Wow. Those are super duper clear. That's what my first set of blocks looked like but I didn't use all the same steps. I used 600, 1000 then 2000 and 4 then buffed it out with a drill. Thanks for the link though I'm going to read through it and re do it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> nah its a pc i just put apple logo for giggles. case is a NZXT S340


Looks cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Wow. Those are super duper clear. That's what my first set of blocks looked like but I didn't use all the same steps. I used 600, 1000 then 2000 and 4 then buffed it out with a drill. Thanks for the link though I'm going to read through it and re do it.


So By telling everyone that just using 2000 grit will get you prime results is false. Just as you said yourself. You would need to move through the grits of 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and polish as Per Lowfats Guide.

TCO


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Alright boys 15 minutes of work and these are the results. Turned out better than it did last time. I think this was the perfect choice in polish. I'm sure I could make it a little better with 4000 grit but I'm happy with it.








Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

DELETE


----------



## tatmMRKIV

So I have run into an Issue modding my AP-30s and am being forced to use pwm splitter for power as well as pwm control, I was agoing to just use the rpm and PWM connectors and use the 12v molex and ground it came with but it wasn't controllable.

SO the Q is

how much amps can I put across a single swiftech 8-way pwm splitter (sata edition) before I have to worry?
seeing as the fans are .51A a piece

or how many fans are safe per splitter?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> *CTRL + ALT +*DELETE


ftfy









Anyone know how to get an AC aqualis res from returning air back to the pump? It's annoying as hell and im pretty tired to keep rocking this heavy bastard


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

I never said you would get prime results. I said I didn't know what to expect and would post my results. I've since went over them one more time with the 2000 and then re polished and the results are more than satasfactory for me.

Here's a little clearer picture.

http://imgur.com/a/zfTcD


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here what ive been cooking up hope you all likes it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> boycotting apple.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks suspiciously like a condensing radiator out of a commercial cool store am I right?
I have been tempted to use something like that in the past.


----------



## Malik




----------



## jamaican voodoo

yea its a a heat exchanger basically a beefy radiator, it works great for my application. i have four 140mm fans cooling it.


----------



## emsj86

Slightly off topic but not really as it has to do with watercooling my rig. So I have a enthoo pro and want to mount my power supply up from with the fan facing the front pantel mesh (on the second 120mm mount so off the floor) so than I can mod a 360 monsta rad or a thick 360 rad on the floor. Is there pmace that sells a psu bracket that allows for the psu to sit upright as explained. If not I have a few ideas but could use some suggestions. Thank you. I feel this would work well as the hdd side wall will hide the psu and cables for nice cable management but also still have air flow from up front. Than I can cover the old psu hole with acrylic or painted metal.


----------



## Yianni89

Hi, I'm planning my first water cooled build and im going to be using ridged tubing. was wondering what the most acute angle achievable with ridged tubing is? can it pretty much turn back on itself if heated correctly?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> Hi, I'm planning my first water cooled build and im going to be using ridged tubing. was wondering what the most acute angle achievable with ridged tubing is? can it pretty much turn back on itself if heated correctly?


This is a great resource for all things acrylic pipe bending: Acrylic pipebending 101.

Edit: Do yourself a huge favor and get one of these kits if you haven't already: Monsoon Hardline Pro Bender Kit 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm), also available for 16mm. It is a lifesaver!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

anyone got some good comparison tests with the newest bitspower cpublock? I have been thinking about getting one of their monoblock setups


----------



## SolarNova

You could always buy a load of angled fittings and use them for the bends. Can look very nice if done right.

So in the case ur asking about, use 2x 90 degree fittings to make 2 pieces of straight tube do a 180 and turn back on itself.

Obviously using so many fitting is more expensive, but u don't need to go through the hassle of heating and bending tubing, specially if u've never done it before.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You never know and could end up disturbing the tube/fitting either by accident or by choice. A leak test is nothing compared to dead hardware (and the ensuing tears)


I should be good, the tubes that were missing the clamps should of leaked by now if they were going to but I'll maxed the pump and run it again for another few hours just to be sure

Edit, doesnt matter anyway, found the clamps and I'm gonna have to pull it apart again, my damn PSU doesnt fit now


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


mmmmmmmm..... that bitspower block looks damn nice


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/


Can't believe I forgot about highflow, even bought from them before.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


That looks amazing. Your pics never cease to astound me.

What fluid is that? I'd love to replicate that color for my build in the future


----------



## szeged

new radiators for the new build









spoilers because who seriously wants to see 59534984893 pictures of radiators.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MacG32

240) MacG32 Updating









Phobya 3/8" x 1/2" rotary and quick connect fittings

Distilled water
PT_Nuke biocide

PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8" x 1/2" Brilliant UV Blue

Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Quad 120mm Radiator

XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir V2 w/ Blue LED Light - Black
Laing D5 / MCP655 Variant Pump

Koolance CPU-380I CPU Block

4x EK Geforce GTX 980 VGA Liquid Cooling Blocks - Acrylic (EK-FC980 GTX)
4x EK GeForce 980 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black (EK-FC980 GTX Backplate - Black)
EK Terminal Block - Quad Parallel - Black Acetal (EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel)

Lamptron FC8 Fan Controller
8x Prolimatech Blue LED Vortex 12 120mm x 25mm CPU Fans


----------



## opt33

lian li A71f rebuild.

Just to prevent others from same mistake....the new bitspower fittings (hi flow) require heavy force to mate when trying to screw together, which makes it easy to strip the fitting (since you dont want to apply force while first screwing something in). The fittings need a few more rows of threads so they mate before requiring a lot of force. The older ones are much better. And I should have gotten a nickel gpu waterblock, copper sticks out... will fix that when 12 gb titan comes out.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Water cooled iMac?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The last dual-cpu Power Mac G4 tower had a self-contained liquid cooling unit and a 1000W PSU because they had no other choice. There were never any G4 laptops. Heaviest computer I've ever had to deal with. Those cases are heavy to begin with, as many know.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> new radiators for the new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spoilers because who seriously wants to see 59534984893 pictures of radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How dare you paint white radiators black








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> lian li A71f rebuild.
> 
> Just to prevent others from same mistake....the new bitspower fittings (hi flow) require heavy force to mate when trying to screw together, which makes it easy to strip the fitting (since you dont want to apply force while first screwing something in). The fittings need a few more rows of threads so they mate before requiring a lot of force. The older ones are much better. And I should have gotten a nickel gpu waterblock, copper sticks out... will fix that when 12 gb titan comes out.


Looks nice


----------



## szeged

they were white primer coated


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> they were white primer coated


So the point of that was to keep the fins white though right? I think that would look really cool.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> they were white primer coated


I wonder what your neighbors would have thought (it doesn't appear that you have any) seeing a bunch of radiators hanging in your garage...









Definitely excited to watch this rebuild.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> they were white primer coated


Oh i see







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know how to get an AC aqualis res from returning air back to the pump? It's annoying as hell and im pretty tired to keep rocking this heavy bastard


Anyone?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone?


Just out of curiosity, which version do you have?


----------



## wermad

I believe its the pro version:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16772/ex-res-393/AquaComputer_Aqualis_PRO_Scratch_Resistance_Reservoir_w_LED_holder_34039.html?tl=g30c97s165

I think this is causing the issue:



Looks like the vortex reducer


----------



## vicyo

*IT'S ALIVE!* ☆~~ヾ(>▽<)ﾉ｡･☆
Dual H55 & nexxxos UT60 AIO. By far the easiest loop to bleed and assemble I have ever had.
And it does work properly








G3258 @ 4.3ghz - 67°C
ITX GTX 970 - 60°C
F12 iPPC @ 950RPM

I used a simple 1/4 brass joint with some heat-shrink for a more uniform look


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> The last dual-cpu Power Mac G4 tower had a self-contained liquid cooling unit and a 1000W PSU because they had no other choice. There were never any G4 laptops. Heaviest computer I've ever had to deal with. Those cases are heavy to begin with, as many know.


I think you mean G5. G4's were rather small. There were Powerbook and iBook G4s.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I believe its the pro version:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16772/ex-res-393/AquaComputer_Aqualis_PRO_Scratch_Resistance_Reservoir_w_LED_holder_34039.html?tl=g30c97s165
> 
> I think this is causing the issue:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the vortex reducer


Is it possible that there is an air leak? I've read that the O rings can be tricky with them if not in the very exact location they need to be. I'm trying to find that post. The OP basically had to re-set the O ring and made sure that it was slightly wet when sealing it back up and apparently that worked.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Is it possible that there is an air leak? I've read that the O rings can be tricky with them if not in the very exact location they need to be. I'm trying to find that post. The OP basically had to re-set the O ring and made sure that it was slightly wet when sealing it back up and apparently that worked.


that was my experience with the baby aquacomputer reservoir (150 ml version). Are you using the fountain effect wermad?


----------



## wermad

Don't think so. I'm using the side ports.

Seems like the air bubbles get stuck under the vortex reducer and then get sucked back in by the pump. I can hear the surge of air bubbles when they hit the impeller. With my previous setup, the res was a bit higher then what it is now (almost leveled).


----------



## DarthBaggins

R.C70 survived the move to the new house


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> The last dual-cpu Power Mac G4 tower had a self-contained liquid cooling unit and a 1000W PSU because they had no other choice. There were never any G4 laptops. Heaviest computer I've ever had to deal with. Those cases are heavy to begin with, as many know.


If you strip down a G4 it isn't that bad

Edit: A stripped down g5 on the other hand is very light.


----------



## Wolfsbora

I have a G4 iMac that I don't know what to do with... Any suggestions? It'd be quite the challenge to deck that thing out, water cool it haha.


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> This is a great resource for all things acrylic pipe bending: Acrylic pipebending 101.
> 
> Edit: Do yourself a huge favor and get one of these kits if you haven't already: Monsoon Hardline Pro Bender Kit 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm), also available for 16mm. It is a lifesaver!


Yes i saw that thread and already ordered the bending kits... least i know im on the right track. thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> You could always buy a load of angled fittings and use them for the bends. Can look very nice if done right.
> 
> So in the case ur asking about, use 2x 90 degree fittings to make 2 pieces of straight tube do a 180 and turn back on itself.
> 
> Obviously using so many fitting is more expensive, but u don't need to go through the hassle of heating and bending tubing, specially if u've never done it before.


i don't think the fittings would make a tight enough angle... in theory i want to bend the tube back on itself.... so to fix my question a bit.... what gap does the need to be between each straight part (Each side of the bend). would it be an equal distance to the the OD of the tube? or can it be narrower? i have no idea if that makes sense, i've read it back to myself about 10 times and cant think of a rephrase now so i'll go with it haha


----------



## Janac

Hello guys, I am building my WC loop with Supremacy EVO and Thermosphere:



*Check the build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood/50#post_23636662*


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> in theory i want to bend the tube back on itself.... so to fix my question a bit.... what gap does the need to be between each straight part (Each side of the bend). would it be an equal distance to the the OD of the tube? or can it be narrower? i have no idea if that makes sense, i've read it back to myself about 10 times and cant think of a rephrase now so i'll go with it haha


Here is the Monsoon 16mm 180 degree mandrel. It should give you some idea of the sharpest return bend you can achieve with consistent results, at least with Monsoon 16mm OD tubing.

The measurement represents the center of the tube, giving a maximum offset of 50mm. I'm sure you could make a tighter bend but your results are going to vary depending on the type of tubing and the manufacturer, as well as your own bending skills. Plus, I would not enjoy trying to remove the silicon insert on a tighter bend (I have punched myself in the face a couple of times pulling it out of simple 90 degree bends, no joke. But I am not a clever man.)


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Here is the Monsoon 16mm 180 degree mandrel. It should give you some idea of the sharpest return bend you can achieve with consistent results, at least with Monsoon 16mm OD tubing.
> 
> The measurement represents the center of the tube, giving a maximum offset of 50mm. I'm sure you could make a tighter bend but your results are going to vary depending on the type of tubing and the manufacturer, as well as your own bending skills. Plus, I would not enjoy trying to remove the silicon insert on a tighter bend (I have punched myself in the face a couple of times pulling it out of simple 90 degree bends, no joke. But I am not a clever man.)


Thanks. That makes way more sense in my head now. I don't think what I wanted to do will be possible with just tube bending.

And according to your current build man I'd say your pretty clever. The tubing in it is awesome. Can't wait to get my gear from diamond cooling.

+rep for the info. Thanks again.


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't think so. I'm using the side ports.
> 
> Seems like the air bubbles get stuck under the vortex reducer and then get sucked back in by the pump. I can hear the surge of air bubbles when they hit the impeller. With my previous setup, the res was a bit higher then what it is now (almost leveled).


@wermad

If you are using the side ports on your res I think the horizontal plastic plate is basically doing the exact opposite rather than what it's supposed to do. When you are using the center port, i.e. using the waterfall effect where the liquid gets pushed up the center tube and then flows back to the res from the nozzles on the top, that plastic plate prevents air bubbles from getting to the outlet and back to the pump. The way you have it set up at the moment the plastic plate is basically blocking the air bubbles from escaping to the res and they get circulated back to the loop. I think it would solve the problem if you moved the inlet on your res to the center port.


----------



## MorpheusRO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I believe its the pro version:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16772/ex-res-393/AquaComputer_Aqualis_PRO_Scratch_Resistance_Reservoir_w_LED_holder_34039.html?tl=g30c97s165
> 
> I think this is causing the issue:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the vortex reducer


That configuration in your picture is for use with the "fountain effect". For using it without the "fountain effect" (using the side ports), you should remove the plastic plate and install the stainless steel deflection plate that came with the reservoir accessories.

Here is what the manual say:
Quote:


> *Use with fountain effect*
> Connect the return line to the central connector of the reservoir and connect the suction line to one of the lateral connectors.
> Seal the unused connection thread with the supplied sealing screw. The acrylic plate pre-installed into the reservoir upon delivery reduces air ingestion.
> The base part is equipped with a M6 thread for a convenient filling process, allowing a small fraction of coolant to directly flow from the base part into the reservoir.
> The M6 thread can be sealed with the supplied headless screw if desired.
> 
> *Use without fountain effect*
> Connect both return line and suction line to the lateral connectors of the reservoir and seal the central connection thread with the supplied sealing screw.
> Remove the acrylic plate and the spacers inside the reservoir by unscrewing two screws.
> *aqualis PRO and XT only*: Install two screws M3 x 8 mm into the now empty threads to refasten the acrylic window in the base part.
> Use light force only in order not to damage the threads in the plastic base part!
> *All versions*: Attach the stainless steel deflector plate to the base part at the bore hole connected to the return line using two screws M3 x 8 mm.
> Use light force only in order not to damage the threads in the plastic base part!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> So the point of that was to keep the fins white though right? I think that would look really cool.


they have black fins but that would be kind of cool but unfortunately you wont see the fins in my build, going push pull on all the radiators.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I wonder what your neighbors would have thought (it doesn't appear that you have any) seeing a bunch of radiators hanging in your garage...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely excited to watch this rebuild.


i own 30 acres so i dont have any neighbors







though my cousin did come over while i was painting them and she was like..."computer stuff again?" "yup" "i just dont understand you"


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> they have black fins but that would be kind of cool but unfortunately you wont see the fins in my build, going push pull on all the radiators.
> i own 30 acres so i dont have any neighbors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> though my cousin did come over while i was painting them and she was like..."computer stuff again?" "yup" "i just dont understand you"


I saw your paint job pics and couldn't help but think of getting overspray on the car in the garage, that stuff flies everywhere when spraying


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> I saw your paint job pics and couldn't help but think of getting overspray on the car in the garage, that stuff flies everywhere when spraying


its my idiot brothers car he left here when he moved to germany and refuses to take it back so its just sitting in my garage for 2 years now, ill do whatever the hell i want with it now lol.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its my idiot brothers car he left here when he moved to germany and refuses to take it back so its just sitting in my garage for 2 years now, ill do whatever the hell i want with it now lol.


SELL IT.. get MONIES


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> SELL IT.. get MONIES


But...what if he doesn't have a key? What can he do then....


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> But...what if he doesn't have a key? What can he do then....


Uhhh... Hotwire it?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> SELL IT.. get MONIES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But...what if he doesn't have a key? What can he do then....
Click to expand...

Get the Vin number, go to a dealer and order keys...?


----------



## szeged

i got the keys, gonna move it out in about an hour and start painting some fans


----------



## Yungbenny911

*911's* current status. Time to bend some Rigid Tubing!







. Is it too late to create a build log if I've already gotten this far?







I still have more cutting to do to the case, and some more spray painting and retouching. I just partially installed everything to enable me bend the tubing as i wait for this unpredictable Texas weather to get paint friendly


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Is it too late to create a build log if I've already gotten this far?


Never


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Is it too late to create a build log if I've already gotten this far?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never
Click to expand...

I'll start working on one


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Lol u should host a rat race except money they win car


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorpheusRO*
> 
> That configuration in your picture is for use with the "fountain effect". For using it without the "fountain effect" (using the side ports), you should remove the plastic plate and install the stainless steel deflection plate that came with the reservoir accessories.
> 
> Here is what the manual say:


Thanks a lot! it makes sense. Sadly, i purchased the res preowned and it didn't come with this piece. I may just keep it like that, remove the acrylic piece, or get a new reservoir. +1








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its my idiot brothers car he left here when he moved to germany and refuses to take it back so its just sitting in my garage for 2 years now, ill do whatever the hell i want with it now lol.


I say: drive it like you stole it! and then sell it!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think mine has that deflection plate







just need to dig through my stuff to see if I can find it


----------



## wermad




----------



## DarthBaggins

Don't mind helping a brotha out lol









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Lol u should host a rat race except money they win car


+rep. This is my fsvorite movie of ALL TIME


----------



## szeged

were haulin ass!

hey you know what we got back there?

you already told me, ass, we are hauling ass.


----------



## HiTechPixel

What do you guys think about the Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL?


----------



## szeged

too small, you should get a caselabs tx10 instead.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> too small, you should get a caselabs tx10 instead.


That'd destroy my desk. I'm looking for something easy to build in for my first computer build. I don't wanna go air though because I want it to have low noise and low temperatures.


----------



## szeged

tx10 is perfect for first time builders because you can take breaks inside it when you get tired.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> tx10 is perfect for first time builders because you can take breaks inside it when you get tired.


Thanks for not answering seriously. I'll try my luck on another forum.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> What do you guys think about the Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL?


I loved it when I first saw it, but is much larger than it have to be, since it have room for two systems. What are you looking to fill it up with?
And please, if you are going for complete silence like me, don't be stupid enough to get a PSU without passive mode (







).


----------



## Vintage

The Mini XL is a good case for watercooling. As with anything phanteks makes.

Should be a solid choice if you like the features it offers.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> That'd destroy my desk. I'm looking for something easy to build in for my first computer build. I don't wanna go air though because I want it to have low noise and low temperatures.


The TX10 IS your desk









But in all seriousness, don't bother with the TX10 unless you really would benefit from 2 separate rigs close to each other- I am a very unique case I'd say, and even so I could have been done with at least one build by now if I went with two separate cases.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think you mean G5. G4's were rather small. There were Powerbook and iBook G4s.


Erp, yes I did. The first series with the metal case that have been popular with modders...G4s were still the plastic and yeah smaller.

It blew my mind when I first opened one and saw radiator fins over the CPU area.

Edit: Pixel you may be able to get more info about the Mini XL in the Enthoo thread; a couple guys have posted nice builds in them already...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/8580#post_23639073


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I loved it when I first saw it, but is much larger than it have to be, since it have room for two systems. What are you looking to fill it up with?
> And please, if you are going for complete silence like me, don't be stupid enough to get a PSU without passive mode (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> The Mini XL is a good case for watercooling. As with anything phanteks makes.
> 
> Should be a solid choice if you like the features it offers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The TX10 IS your desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But in all seriousness, don't bother with the TX10 unless you really would benefit from 2 separate rigs close to each other- I am a very unique case I'd say, and even so I could have been done with at least one build by now if I went with two separate cases.


I'm looking to cool _one_ *Intel Core i7-5960X* & _two_ *Evga GeForce GTX 980 K|NGP|N*. Those are the only components I have bought because I'm still thinking about the rest. With that said, I might go for the Asus Rampage V Extreme so I think an ATX case is better suited.

I'm deadset on the radiators however. Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX. They just look incredibly sexy.


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here what ive been cooking up hope you all likes it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> boycotting apple.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was thinking of doing something similar with a automotive auxiliary cooler (is that what you used?) , but was going to look further into galvanic corrosion, supposedly having both aluminum and copper in the same waterloop can cause the copper to be eaten away.... supposedly there is someone on here that had a pinhole eaten through their CPU block due to this...


----------



## jfro63

i own 30 acres so i dont have any neighbors







though my cousin did come over while i was painting them and she was like..."computer stuff again?" "yup" "i just dont understand you"[/quote]

30 acres! Now that sounds like a good time for where you live. I can see why you enjoy the side by side ATV there. Looking forward to seeing the build with those new "Black Rads".


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> I was thinking of doing something similar with a automotive auxiliary cooler (is that what you used?) , but was going to look further into galvanic corrosion, supposedly having both aluminum and copper in the same waterloop can cause the copper to be eaten away.... supposedly there is someone on here that had a pinhole eaten through their CPU block due to this...


its heat exchanger the one they use for furnaces, you can buy them off amazon brand new, its aluminum fins with copper tubes so you don't need to worry about galvanic corrosion.


----------



## parodi1

you can try a fractal design 804. thats what i use currently. has the footprint of a small microwave and 2 compartments. as far as ease of build goes, this is by far not my first build. it can be tricky running the pipes from side to side, although i used acrylic making this more difficult on myself. why i used acrylic? who knows, seemed like a good idea at the time and when your in this hobby long enough you get used to racking up large credit card bills for stuff that in reality, you dont need.

IMG_20150112_065823.jpg 1462k .jpg file


IMG_20150101_145630.jpg 2332k .jpg file


IMG_20150112_064955.jpg 1627k .jpg file


----------



## parodi1

and oh yea that houses an asrock x99 killer matx board, 5820k, 290x, 16gb gskill, 2xex240 rads, ek x3 150mm res, swiftech mp50x pump 1tb hhd, 2x intel 250gb ssd 730s. i will be upgrading the graphics card when i decide what road i want to go down. (add another 290x or possibly wait a few months and put in 2 980s.)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Just redid loop for gtx480 and pwm modded ap30s

Next is a dedicated 24v psu for the waterpump.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> new radiators for the new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spoilers because who seriously wants to see 59534984893 pictures of radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are awesome. Too bad I don't have that kind of room in the 932.

Also too bad that we can't powdercoat those Rads. They'd be nothing more than a pile of tubes, solder and brackets.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> in theory i want to bend the tube back on itself.... so to fix my question a bit.... what gap does the need to be between each straight part (Each side of the bend). would it be an equal distance to the the OD of the tube? or can it be narrower? i have no idea if that makes sense, i've read it back to myself about 10 times and cant think of a rephrase now so i'll go with it haha
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the Monsoon 16mm 180 degree mandrel. It should give you some idea of the sharpest return bend you can achieve with consistent results, at least with Monsoon 16mm OD tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> The measurement represents the center of the tube, giving a maximum offset of 50mm. I'm sure you could make a tighter bend but your results are going to vary depending on the type of tubing and the manufacturer, as well as your own bending skills. Plus, I would not enjoy trying to remove the silicon insert on a tighter bend (I have punched myself in the face a couple of times pulling it out of simple 90 degree bends, no joke. But I am not a clever man.)
Click to expand...

I think that anyone can have an off day like that. If I had a nickel for everytime I've busted myself in the face, I'd prolly be a gazillionaire and be one of those boutique system buyers.







lulz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> 
> Just redid loop for gtx480 and pwm modded ap30s
> 
> Next is a dedicated 24v psu for the waterpump.


What case is that? Love that MB tray... yeah yeah I know it's your bench.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> new radiators for the new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spoilers because who seriously wants to see 59534984893 pictures of radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> Those are awesome. Too bad I don't have that kind of room in the 932.
> 
> Also too bad that we can't powdercoat those Rads. They'd be nothing more than a pile of tubes, solder and brackets.
Click to expand...

Not true! http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/80#post_17521695









-Jeffinslaw


----------



## HiTechPixel

So, what's the smallest *non-windowed* case that can fit 2x 480mm and a 230mm long PSU?


----------



## fleetfeather

probably the exact same sized case that also has a windowed variant? cases don't really vary in dimensions based on window presence


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> probably the exact same sized case that also has a windowed variant? cases don't really vary in dimensions based on window presence


That's not very helpful though. I mean, most cases nowadays only come in one version; windowed. Hence my question.


----------



## wermad

That's a hard one. Maybe an SM8, config w/ 480 top and bottom and use the CL psu support bracket. And don't add the window option for a solid panel.


----------



## psycho84




----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's a hard one. Maybe an SM8, config w/ 480 top and bottom and use the CL psu support bracket. And don't add the window option for a solid panel.


Where do I mount the PSU if I use 480s in the top and bottom?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's a hard one. Maybe an SM8, config w/ 480 top and bottom and *use the CL psu support bracket*. And don't add the window option for a solid panel.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Where do I mount the PSU if I use 480s in the top and bottom?
Click to expand...



http://www.caselabs-store.com/psu-mounting-bar-kits/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*


New HK blocks look gorgeous


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/psu-mounting-bar-kits/


Oh my god, this is amazing. I really, really like the look of it. And, unless my eyes deceive me, it appears that one can mount a reservoir on it as well, right? Still though, the only problem is getting the power cord to the outside of the case.


----------



## wermad

psu cover:


http://www.caselabs-store.com/psu-covers-pricing-varies/


----------



## HiTechPixel

Thanks, I saw it myself after browsing their website but am too lazy to edit my post. However, despite the Case Labs case looking perfect, I'm going to go with the Phanteks Enthoo Primo for a couple of reasons:

1.
It's beginner-friendly and readily available.

2.
It has space for 2x 480mm radiators.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> So, what's the smallest *non-windowed* case that can fit 2x 480mm and a 230mm long PSU?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Thanks, I saw it myself after browsing their website but am too lazy to edit my post. However, despite the Case Labs case looking perfect, I'm going to go with the Phanteks Enthoo Primo for a couple of reasons:
> 
> 1.
> It's beginner-friendly and readily available.
> 
> 2.
> It has space for 2x 480mm radiators.
Click to expand...

...but it's got a window...


----------



## wermad

delete


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ...but it's got a window...


Yeah, I know. I just gotta live with it.


----------



## guitarhero23

Anyone know where I can find a photoshop or Illustrator template for the stickers on this?



If not I'll just whip something up myself since it's a very basic design but figured someone else has already done it, and better than I could.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ...but it's got a window...


Yall tried. I was sensing something fishy was going to happen by the end of his conversation about the Case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> tx10 is perfect for first time builders because you can take breaks inside it when you get tired.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyone know where I can find a photoshop or Illustrator template for the stickers on this?
> 
> 
> 
> If not I'll just whip something up myself since it's a very basic design but figured someone else has already done it, and better than I could.


@Jameswalt1 might be able to help you out or even @B NEGATIVE


----------



## emsj86

Would a monsta 240mm rad work well with sp120 quiet edition in push or pull only? Or do I need a more powerful fan


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Would a monsta 240mm rad work well with sp120 quiet edition in push or pull only? Or do I need a more powerful fan


you will want a faster fan or a thinner radiator.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Those are awesome. Too bad I don't have that kind of room in the 932.
> 
> Also too bad that we can't powdercoat those Rads. They'd be nothing more than a pile of tubes, solder and brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that anyone can have an off day like that. If I had a nickel for everytime I've busted myself in the face, I'd prolly be a gazillionaire and be one of those boutique system buyers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> What case is that? Love that MB tray... yeah yeah I know it's your bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


lol did u see my post on CM's fb page? They posted a pc in a tuberware box and something about cases, so i was like, what the urf is a case and posted some cold pics

Custom 80inch rubbermaid table bro
with caselabs mobotray(100$ i shoulda just bought a case)
Lol it comes in handy for water benching cuz the pcie brackets are fixed unlike on my dimastech where it needs to be adjusted and never fits quite right.

My next case idea is taking the stand off a primochill wetbench and using the mobo tray in my crossdesk, i think itd look cleaner than putting this mobotray in there


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Would a monsta 240mm rad work well with sp120 quiet edition in push or pull only? Or do I need a more powerful fan


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> you will want a faster fan or a thinner radiator.


What he said. You'll be better off with a thinner rad, or try to create more space (if you can) for push-pull. Faster fan = higher dB = not cool


----------



## emsj86

Thanks. Basically right now I have a thin 240 switech xp rad. But I want more cooling and also I have plans to move the 240 rad from bottom to the front of my case. What 240 would be best to get. As of right now I have 3 perf. Edition sp120 and 2 sp120 quiet edition. If needed I can always get another fan or two and go push pull.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

get another SP edition. fyi corsair fans are not the best noise wise, they have a grainy sound. for noise to performance I am sure you know but just in case, Gentle typhoons are the quietest and most pleasant sounding at high rpm, and dazmode is getting a shipment of 2150rpm models pretty soon, they are available for preorder.

in the 7blade models with the nidec servo you can definitely hear the hub at really low RPM with PWM mod. Its nottoo loud but it could get noticable if you dont haveany other noise going on around you


----------



## DarthBaggins

Or you can use deltas for a year then any fan after that will seem silent, lol


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Or you can use deltas for a year then any fan after that will seem silent, lol


Or any CoolerMaster fans at 100%


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Or any CoolerMaster fans at 100%


Or just skip to the Gentle Typhoons and then everything seems too loud.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Yeah, I know. I just gotta live with it.


Just be aware that not every 480 mm rad out there will fit on the primo: wider than an ocool rad would most likely run in to conflict with the side panel. That been said I was able to cram 2x 240 mm front and side + a 280 mm on the bottom of the primo with an additional 480 on top. Just saying in case you have not aquired as yet the 2x 480 mm rads.

good luck.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

seriously I can hardly hear my AP-30s at 1600rpm, not sure if the noise is the fans or the waterpump I have overvolted xD


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Yeah, I know. I just gotta live with it.


FWIW, some people don't consider it a "window" at all because it's so dark.


----------



## Hefner

I'm running my gentle typhoons at 800 rpm. Anything beyond that is loud in my perception. Noise isolation in my case is pretty much non-existent, and i've never owned a case with proper noise isolation so I can't really relate. Not sure how much it really matters though.

I also turn off my fridge when I listen to music on my speakers.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I have sat around real fans long enough in my life any noise level of computer fan is pretty withstandable. I mean inline fans... those are LOUD.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thanks. Basically right now I have a thin 240 switech xp rad. But I want more cooling and also I have plans to move the 240 rad from bottom to the front of my case. What 240 would be best to get. As of right now I have 3 perf. Edition sp120 and 2 sp120 quiet edition. If needed I can always get another fan or two and go push pull.


get gtx nemesis, they are very impressive and on sale at performance pcs


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

I'm planning to make a portable water cooled Workstation using the Haf 915R and I was wondering if anyone has 3D files?

Cheers


----------



## Benjiw

Has anyone lapped a nickle plated waterblock? I'm guessing the plating is so thin it isn't worth doing?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lapping waterblocks is counterproductive, they are supposed to be bowed


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has anyone lapped a nickle plated waterblock? I'm guessing the plating is so thin it isn't worth doing?


yes its microns thick, it would be a wasted effort really


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I have sat around real fans long enough in my life any noise level of computer fan is pretty withstandable. I mean inline fans... those are LOUD.


relativity bro


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has anyone lapped a nickle plated waterblock? I'm guessing the plating is so thin it isn't worth doing?


If you were to lap it, you can re-plate fairly easily (although I have never done it so "easily" is relative to the user). However, it is a lot of work for something that you may end up not liking.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yall tried. I was sensing something fishy was going to happen by the end of his conversation about the Case.


Lol, well, can't blame a man for trying


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, well, can't blame a man for trying


And another Anime Avatar I See Sir.

You finish those episodes quick!

How them Monsta's Treating the New Rebuild of yours?

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has anyone lapped a nickle plated waterblock? I'm guessing the plating is so thin it isn't worth doing?


Never lap a waterblock,only lap the chip,there are bowed contact patches on the plate,flattening them ruins the block.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lapping waterblocks is counterproductive, they are supposed to be bowed


I thought this when I used to visit the delidding club but they seem to think flat surfaces on both provide better temps?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> yes its microns thick, it would be a wasted effort really


I thought as much, thanks for backing it up.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Never lap a waterblock,only lap the chip,there are bowed contact patches on the plate,flattening them ruins the block.


Ah ok, thank you for the information, I'm tempted to lap my FX-8350 but might sell it for an 8370.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And another Anime Avatar I See Sir.
> 
> You finish those episodes quick!
> 
> How them Monsta's Treating the New Rebuild of yours?
> 
> TCO


Seems like the really good ones end up being very short. Quite a shame as its a common groan in the message boards. But I do watch each anime a few times and then find something else. It does take a bit wading through some ok one's to find a gem.

Under my desk, it was really causing a heatwave. I ended up rearranging my desk and placing this porker on top of my desk next to a window. Temps have settled properly and I'm a good 10°C down compared to the dual chamber 900D. Gpu's idle @ 30°C vs 50°C under my desk and 40°C (tri R9 290s) with the 900D. The placement and the small gain from the push/pull setup is helping. Its a single large chamber so i need to feed it fresh air from the top.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Seems like the really good ones end up being very short. Quite a shame as its a common groan in the message boards. But I do watch each anime a few times and then find something else. It does take a bit wading through some ok one's to find a gem.
> 
> Under my desk, it was really causing a heatwave. I ended up rearranging my desk and placing this porker on top of my desk next to a window. Temps have settled properly and I'm a good 10°C down compared to the dual chamber 900D. Gpu's idle @ 30°C vs 50°C under my desk and 40°C (tri R9 290s) with the 900D. The placement and the small gain from the push/pull setup is helping. Its a single large chamber so i need to feed it fresh air from the top.


Using all the same loop I presume though. No dual loops (that are separate, One for Processor, One for Gpus) Those 290s run at what temps during gameplay, or do you render or more of a video man?

TCO

EDIT: Scratch that you have the Dual 295x dont ya... So thats 4 Gpus actually.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks I never thought I would have to open a thread like this but alas here we go:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1545454/be-wary-of-performance-pc

@phillyd I am sorry mate but since the injustice is so flagrant I had to open the thread.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks I never thought I would have to open a thread like this but alas here we go:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1545454/be-wary-of-performance-pc
> 
> @phillyd I am sorry mate but since the injustice is so flagrant I had to open the thread.


No worries, I'm on it. I did not realize that we had not yet closed the issue.

Best Regards,
Philip


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Using all the same loop I presume though. No dual loops (that are separate, One for Processor, One for Gpus) Those 290s run at what temps during gameplay, or do you render or more of a video man?
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Scratch that you have the Dual 295x dont ya... So thats 4 Gpus actually.


The 900D had three 290s on water and only saw the two 295x2s on the stock air cooler. All fans a @5v right now (~1000rpm). May connect the controller the bump them to 6v (7v x24 is a bit loud for tastes).


----------



## electro2u

Does anyone have any photos of 140mm radiators (280 in particular) with 120mm fans on with adapters?


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Does anyone have any photos of 140mm radiators (280 in particular) with 120mm fans on with adapters?


I think lowfat does on one of his builds.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> new radiators for the new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spoilers because who seriously wants to see 59534984893 pictures of radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> Those are awesome. Too bad I don't have that kind of room in the 932.
> 
> Also too bad that we can't powdercoat those Rads. They'd be nothing more than a pile of tubes, solder and brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not true! http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/80#post_17521695
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Good lookin out Jeffins.









I honestly didn't think that we could do that because the ovens used for PCing typically go past 300* degrees,









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

A little bit of a clean up (pics still need work







):


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A little bit of a clean up (pics still need work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):


That case is the Thermaltake Core X9?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> That case is the Thermaltake Core X9?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


Nice build, seems than that case is going to replace my HAF X


----------



## wermad




----------



## Gabrielzm

cables are on their way to me







This is the very one Joey did for me. I think I will become a regular customer of ensourced.


----------



## morencyam

They do some beautiful work, and this is no exception. I really like the asymmetrical pattern and color combination


----------



## electro2u

Yah I got mine from ensourced.net too. Very pleased with them. Only criticism is that the combs are fragile.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Preview, still processing my real photos


----------



## VSG

Geez this thing is massive:



















It came as part of this:



















along with these:


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Hurry up and get it going and tell us how it does


----------



## VSG

It will be a good week or two, but not like I can really say anything here in detail


----------



## Radnad

That's a sweet looking block! Kind of like a ninja star, to go along with the dragons I guess, lol.


----------



## wermad

Saw TinyTom's review of this. Very fiddly and tbh, not really my taste in the looks department. Its great on an itx board (impact), but moving up the range in boards, single blocks look more the part and allow to show off the smexy mb circuitry imho.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I just dont like the idea of buying extra tubing and fittings if I dont have to.


----------



## electro2u

I still think they might be seahorses.


----------



## wermad

How much weight does this beast add? BP has traditionally been about the bling...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

better than crop circles


----------



## wermad

Where have you been??? CSQ has been slowly been replaced by "Clean". Most of the stuff ek puts out is the "clean" models. I guess after a few years for protest, they finally are getting rid of them (still some csq present mind you







.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

they still csq the pump tops, which is too much for me. Also the mobo waterblocks without the SB have some wretched chunk of driled nonsense to replace the stock sb cooler


----------



## Jakusonfire

I've never understood the hating on the EK circles. Sure, some things like the GPU blocks were over done and would have looked much better with just a few carefully placed circles ... like the Dual D5 top has.

If everything is completely without circles though then things like pump tops just begins to look like every other brand. Plain black acetal makes the top nearly indistinguishable from Alphacools model ... ( Erk ), or XSPC for that matter.


----------



## electro2u

I have a crop circle tattoo but csq makes me nauseous.


----------



## jokrik

I've been away from water cooling world for a while, and now I feel dumb jumping in half way not knowing anything

just wanna make sure, since I use primochill 1/2 in rigid tubes
does this fit in THIS one?

1/2 in is 12.7mm by conversion
yet the BP adapter is 12mm by spec


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I've been away from water cooling world for a while, and now I feel dumb jumping in half way not knowing anything
> 
> just wanna make sure, since I use primochill 1/2 in rigid tubes
> does this fit in THIS one?
> 
> 1/2 in is 12.7mm by conversion
> yet the BP adapter is 12mm by spec


Almost positive the answer is no. You need to use imperial hard fittings. Primochill has some good ones (i use the primochill revolvers) and i think monsoon has some (i know they do for 5/8 but not sure about 1/2) but their fittings are silver plated which is why i chose primochill over the monsoon. Dont want any silver in with my nickel gpu blocks.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Almost positive the answer is no. You need to use imperial hard fittings. Primochill has some good ones (i use the primochill revolvers) and i think monsoon has some (i know they do for 5/8 but not sure about 1/2) but their fittings are silver plated which is why i chose primochill over the monsoon. Dont want any silver in with my nickel gpu blocks.


It's really hard to know and it can get messed up even if you match imperial spec with imperial spec... I recently threw out a bunch of Bitspower Crystal Link 16mm tubing because it wouldn't fit into the 16mm Bitspower Enhanced Multi Link fittings I use. Not even close.

The best way to know is to search build logs to find your proposed combination and if you don't find any, make a test with 1 fitting if you can afford time and expense or use a combination that is known to work.

I found 5/8" OD Monsoon tubing to be perfect for the 16mm Bitspower Enh. hardline fittings.


----------



## psycho84




----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Almost positive the answer is no. You need to use imperial hard fittings. Primochill has some good ones (i use the primochill revolvers) and i think monsoon has some (i know they do for 5/8 but not sure about 1/2) but their fittings are silver plated which is why i chose primochill over the monsoon. Dont want any silver in with my nickel gpu blocks.


Well, I do use the revolver
however I'm kinda getting sick looking at the bended tubes, I want something more industrial with that 90 multi link adapter
Need to do some more homework on this stuff

Thx for the input, worst case scenario I'll get that 90 adapter with g1/4 thread and order more revolver
but it would look more bulky on every bend


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*


----------



## Bluemustang

After months of planning, waiting on shipments and backorders, leaking issues that required i move my reservoir from back of case to hdd cages as well as get a smaller res (at which time i went ahead and got a dual pump setup) and of course building i am finally (almost, still gotta do cables and lighting which should hopefully only be a few hours) finished









Was supposed to be a black and white build but kinda ended up as a black/white and blue build because of the motherboard and UN pump mounts.

Also my self made pump decoupling/mounting deal isnt the prettiest but it works and best yet when the side panel is on it cant be seen. The GPU power cables arent the nicest either but i am done with this build for a couple months, ill do some custom sleeving then.

As you can see i JUST finished filling my loop with mayhems pastel ice white (as seen by the fill tube) so i cant yet take a pic with the side window on. Ah and i havnt done lighting yet, got some LED lighting ill install as well.

As for the bends im not too keen on the super long run but my favorite bend also just happened to be the easiest (that offset bend from CPU block to reservoir).


----------



## fleetfeather

I can't deal with the horizontal run's bend


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I've been away from water cooling world for a while, and now I feel dumb jumping in half way not knowing anything
> 
> just wanna make sure, since I use primochill 1/2 in rigid tubes
> does this fit in THIS one?
> 
> 1/2 in is 12.7mm by conversion
> yet the BP adapter is 12mm by spec


Bitspower is Metric so imperial tubing is too large.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I can't deal with the horizontal run's bend


You cant deal eh? Luckily i like them. Thanks for that response after i spent 2 months on this.


----------



## wermad

Looks helluva lot better then the crap I made (and then gave up)







.

Hardlines are a pita to make perfect, especially non-fitting bends. If i try this again, it would be with tons of angle fittings as I just don't like bending. Not my forte tbh, but I wouldn't mind trying the bending kits.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> You cant deal eh? Luckily i like them. Thanks for that response after i spent 2 months on this.


START.AGAIN.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks helluva lot better then the crap I made (and then gave up)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Hardlines are a pita to make perfect, especially non-fitting bends. If i try this again, it would be with *tons of angle fittings* as I just don't like bending. Not my forte tbh, but I wouldn't mind trying the bending kits.


I think I'd go that route too. Measuring and bending was incredibly tedious, especially since I have limited use of my right arm and it was my first watercooled build. I'm going flex tube on the folding rig this time. I did things in reverse, didn't I?









@Bluemustang, what matters is that you like it! Good job on your build!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> START.AGAIN.


Unfinished build...using neoprene....talking smack about rigid tubing build...







...



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I think I'd go that route too. *Measuring and bending was incredibly tedious,* especially since I have limited use of my right arm and it was my first watercooled build. I'm going flex tube on the folding rig this time. I did things in reverse, didn't I?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Bluemustang, what matters is that you like it! Good job on your build!


qft


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> You cant deal eh? Luckily i like them. Thanks for that response after i spent 2 months on this.


I'm not saying I don't like it, I do, but you gotta understand that posting pictures for public approval doesn't always mean people laying on the compliments. Nice work though.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Unfinished build...using neoprene....talking smack about rigid tubing build...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Build is unfinished because a) I'm quite busy, and b) My plans constantly change. Using Norprene because I prefer the aesthetic (perhaps that will change when rigid tubing comes in matte black flavours). Criticism (jokingly or not) is not exclusive to those who have bested the target. If that was the case, I'm quite sure 95% of the people in this thread wouldn't be commenting on BNegs, Lowfats, or Snefs works.










edit: my apologies to those who who also produce extremely high standards of work. I know BNeg, Lowfat and Snef are not the only folks who have strong attention to detail. Those were simply the first three names that came to mind.


----------



## szeged

long acrylic runs like the bottom ones with multiple bends are a pita to get perfect.

it looks good to me and if you like it is all that really matters but me personally i would be pulling it out and trying over and over till the bend was 100%


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> long acrylic runs like the bottom ones with multiple bends are a pita to get perfect.
> 
> it looks good to me and if you like it is all that really matters *but me personally i would be pulling it out and trying over with gold tube!*


Fixed! Now, time to oc that pump with more jiggawatts!!!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fixed! Now, time to oc that pump with more jiggawatts!!!!!


diamond encrusted gold tube and replace the coolant with liquid platinum


----------



## DarthBaggins

@Bluemustang Knowing the difficulty level of bending acrylic let alone attempting the lines you did, looks good to me (yeah a lil off but it functions and serves its purpose). Good work and better to have completed the build then given up all together









Hope I can get the time to start my bends, all I have to say mounting those BitsPower full board blocks is a PITA. The hardest part was mounting the top piece as I didn't want to break anything lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Geez this thing is massive:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It came as part of this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> along with these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes the kit/block set is massive and time consuming to install, just need to leak test mine (I'll have up my real photos once I get a chance to process them - shot in RAW format) Also wish they had allowed for the ROG LED to be incorporated into the block set, just looks like another challenge to me


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> diamond encrusted gold tube and replace the coolant with liquid platinum


lol,

Wish my drill press worked. Could have made a bunch of acrylic 90°s since I have the proper g1/4 tap set and a 1" thick slab of acrylic.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lol,
> 
> Wish my drill press worked. Could have made a bunch of acrylic 90°s since I have the proper g1/4 tap set and a 1" thick slab of acrylic.


Getting all nasty with the customized acrylic! GET YOUR DRILL PRESS TO WORK.







I need some work done.


----------



## wermad

Lol, I thought it was the cap but I swapped it from my working band saw, no go







. From what I'm reading in the woodworking forums, the repair would be as much as used decent unit (and not far from a decent new unit). I'm keeping my eye on craig's to see what comes up. I was actually gonna turn that slab into a gpu block bridge system a few years back. Then bro borrowed the press, came back dead...sigh


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lol,
> 
> Wish my drill press worked. Could have made a bunch of acrylic 90°s since I have the proper g1/4 tap set and a 1" thick slab of acrylic.


my drill press works, too bad its about as old as world war 2 and would destroy everything it touched lol.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, I thought it was the cap but I swapped it from my working band saw, no go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . From what I'm reading in the woodworking forums, the repair would be as much as used decent unit (and not far from a decent new unit). I'm keeping my eye on craig's to see what comes up. I was actually gonna turn that slab into a gpu block bridge system a few years back. Then bro borrowed the press, came back dead...sigh


What is with your bro?? Haha You can't catch a break!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> my drill press works, too bad its about as old as world war 2 and would destroy everything it touched lol.


Does the bit sit straight or is the chuck jacked up?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What is with your bro?? Haha You can't catch a break!
> Does the bit sit straight or is the chuck jacked up?


id have to go dig it out from under all the other junk in the garage, im not kidding when i said the press is probably from around the WW2 era lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What is with your bro?? Haha You can't catch a break!


I know, we all have our karma, and not enough dharma if you ask me







. I had rarely used it anyways and bought it w/ the bandsaw as a combo on sale. I mainly use my cordless for 99% of the jobs. If i need a press, i go to a buddies.

I've given up on using the g1/4 tap. The issue is I can't get the g1/4 tap to fit on a 1/2" wrench. I bought the tap from mcmastercarr.com (along w/ the 11.8mm bit) and I just haven't bothered to look for the correct wrench (5/8"??????). Every time I think about selling it, I start getting a flood of ideas of what I can do w/ the tap....lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> You cant deal eh? Luckily i like them. Thanks for that response after i spent 2 months on this.


Don't forget to take your stickers off of the Acrylic blocks









Congrats on the Completion. I know you were stressing for quite some time there.

The Cautious One


----------



## morencyam

I love having a decent drill press. My old roommate gave me his when he moved into his new apartment and I moved into a house. He had nowhere to put it and figured I'd get more use out of it. And he has the option to come use it whenever he wants.

Back on topic somewhat. I'm in the market for a new GPU(s) as my SLI GTX470's are really showing their age now that I am able to game at 5760x1080. I obviously want to throw whatever card(s) I get back into the loop but I'm torn if I should go with a full cover block again or universal. I tend to keep my hardware as long as possible before upgrading, which explains why I still have Fermis, so it's not like I'm changing cards with each new release and need the ability to reuse the same block over and over. What are your thoughts? Also and good GPU recommendations for triple monitor gaming, preferably single card solution so I don't have to buy two blocks.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> id have to go dig it out from under all the other junk in the garage, im not kidding when i said the press is probably from around the WW2 era lol.


You may be surprised at how it does. May need to be greased but I bet you could get that thing running like new fairly quickly, provided there is no damage to anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I know, we all have our karma, and not enough dharma if you ask me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I had rarely used it anyways and bought it w/ the bandsaw as a combo on sale. I mainly use my cordless for 99% of the jobs. If i need a press, i go to a buddies.
> 
> I've given up on using the g1/4 tap. The issue is I can't get the g1/4 tap to fit on a 1/2" wrench. I bought the tap from mcmastercarr.com (along w/ the 11.8mm bit) and I just haven't bothered to look for the correct wrench (5/8"??????). Every time I think about selling it, I start getting a flood of ideas of what I can do w/ the tap....lol.


Karma hasn't been good to me lately. I'm assuming it's because of the fun times I had in my teens and early 20s.







Sounds like you're good to go other than the wrench. Go to one of the discount hardware stores like Harbor Freight and find what you need on the cheap. Turn those ideas into something! Custom parts really are the way to go.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I love having a decent drill press. My old roommate gave me his when he moved into his new apartment and I moved into a house. He had nowhere to put it and figured I'd get more use out of it. And he has the option to come use it whenever he wants.
> 
> Back on topic somewhat. I'm in the market for a new GPU(s) as my SLI GTX470's are really showing their age now that I am able to game at 5760x1080. I obviously want to throw whatever card(s) I get back into the loop but I'm torn if I should go with a full cover block again or universal. I tend to keep my hardware as long as possible before upgrading, which explains why I still have Fermis, so it's not like I'm changing cards with each new release and need the ability to reuse the same block over and over. What are your thoughts? Also and good GPU recommendations for triple monitor gaming, preferably single card solution so I don't have to buy two blocks.


Even though fullcovers are more expensive and have a single life purpose (well, most of the time), you may have better resale value on the cards w/ the blocks. Get's rid of the old hardware and moves you closer to the newer stuff. Remember, uni-blocks still need cooling for the vrm's.

Don't go for the latest gen, as that's still a bit pricey. check out the 7xxx or 6xx series as I've seen a ton of fc blocks sell for under $50 a pop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You may be surprised at how it does. May need to be greased but I bet you could get that thing running like new fairly quickly, provided there is no damage to anything.
> Karma hasn't been good to me lately. I'm assuming it's because of the fun times I had in my teens and early 20s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like you're good to go other than the wrench. Go to one of the discount hardware stores like Harbor Freight and find what you need on the cheap. Turn those ideas into something! Custom parts really are the way to go.


biggest harbor has is 1/2" and the tap is slightly larger then the max opening of the chuck. Once I get serious with custom stuff, i may look for the right wrench.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I love having a decent drill press. My old roommate gave me his when he moved into his new apartment and I moved into a house. He had nowhere to put it and figured I'd get more use out of it. And he has the option to come use it whenever he wants.
> 
> Back on topic somewhat. I'm in the market for a new GPU(s) as my SLI GTX470's are really showing their age now that I am able to game at 5760x1080. I obviously want to throw whatever card(s) I get back into the loop but I'm torn if I should go with a full cover block again or universal. I tend to keep my hardware as long as possible before upgrading, which explains why I still have Fermis, so it's not like I'm changing cards with each new release and need the ability to reuse the same block over and over. What are your thoughts? Also and good GPU recommendations for triple monitor gaming, preferably single card solution so I don't have to buy two blocks.


Single 980 with a full block since you don't upgrade all of the time. A universal block is pointless if you plan on holding on to your GPU for a few generations.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Even though fullcovers are more expensive and have a single life purpose (well, most of the time), you may have better resale value on the cards w/ the blocks. Get's rid of the old hardware and moves you closer to the newer stuff. Remember, uni-blocks still need cooling for the vrm's.
> 
> Don't go for the latest gen, as that's still a bit pricey. check out the 7xxx or 6xx series as I've seen a ton of fc blocks sell for under $50 a pop.


I've seen some 7990's on eBay at some decent prices. As well as some even better priced 680's. I was thinking about a 780Ti as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Single 980 with a full block since you don't upgrade all of the time. A universal block is pointless if you plan on holding on to your GPU for a few generations.


That was my thought as well. And full cover just adds a little bit of bling factor as well. And since my mobo is horizontal inside my desk, aesthetics is somewhat important to me.


----------



## wermad

i've been hearing 7970s are going for less then $100. Two plus two $40-50 blocks, that's $300 vs a $550 + $125 980 setup. used 290 ~$200 and block ~$65-75, two of them would mop a 980 and cost less







. 780s and Ti's aren't bad but they're already at 290/290x/970 territory, not my first choice with this mind. For a single new card, 290x or a 970 (if you can see past the vram discrepancy) if you don't wanna break the piggy.

older dual gpu cards typically sell for a premium and blocks are harder to find btw.


----------



## morencyam

Yeah, 7900 series cards have really dropped in price. A 290x was also a big consideration. But whatever I go with I want to make sure it has at I'd least 3-4gb vram. Ideally I'd like to find a good deal on a used card with a waterblock included. Kill two birds with one stone so to speak.


----------



## wermad

forgot to post this if any one is interested:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1545543/visiontek-r9-290-290x-ek-waterblock-w-backplate-49-50

Visiontek/EK hawaii block + backplate for $50 (







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yeah, 7900 series cards have really dropped in price. A 290x was also a big consideration. But whatever I go with I want to make sure it has at I'd least 3-4gb vram. Ideally I'd like to find a good deal on a used card with a waterblock included. Kill two birds with one stone so to speak.


I just sold three sapphire tri-x oc 290s and their koolance blocks









Keep looking and the deals will come up. Nvidia typically sells for a premium but that in turns means they have a bit better depreciation.


----------



## emsj86

Does anyone know if be primochill petg tubing will work with the push in multi link fittings.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Does anyone know if be primochill petg tubing will work with the push in multi link fittings.


Primochill is Imperial and Bitspower (Multilink) is Metric ... So, no.

If you want to use Imperial tube and Bitspower style fittings there are the Rocketscience Imperial fittings made here in Au. They are same, same ... but different.


----------



## wermad

rocket science makes imperial fittings similar to the c47s. It comes in 1/2" only I believe and can be used with copper or acrylic.


----------



## emsj86

So seems petg wouldn't work. Even though or at least I thought petg was same size as the primochill acrylic hence being able to use revolver fittings on both


----------



## wermad

isn't it the same size? just different material?


----------



## darwing

waiting on the custom cables for the final pics


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm not saying I don't like it, I do, but you gotta understand that posting pictures for public approval doesn't always mean people laying on the compliments. Nice work though.


Yes well, i not a "professional builder" who does a new build once a month and looking for constructive criticism. This is my first water cooled build that i spent 2 months and over 2 thousand dollars on (which is a fairly big deal to me). I'm very satisfied with the result (just needs a few sleeved cables eventually) and glad to have it completed and wanted to show it off. I was expecting good responses as this is supposed to be a niche community and id hope one of good spirits.

I could easily have just gone for a soft tubing build and not put much thought into it and had it completed relatively quickly. Sure, this isnt a professional build made to perfection. But compared to the everyday joes basic WC build id consider this pretty spiffy, especially for a first time build.

Thanks for the compliments. So happy to finally have this completed!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Yes well, i not a "professional builder" who does a new build once a month and looking for constructive criticism. This is my first water cooled build that i spent 2 months and over 2 thousand dollars on (which is a fairly big deal to me). I'm very satisfied with the result (just needs a few sleeved cables eventually) and glad to have it completed and wanted to show it off. I was expecting good responses as this is supposed to be a niche community and id hope one of good spirits.
> 
> I could easily have just gone for a soft tubing build and not put much thought into it and had it completed relatively quickly. Sure, this isnt a professional build made to perfection. But compared to the everyday joes basic WC build id consider this pretty spiffy, especially for a first time build.
> 
> Thanks for the compliments. So happy to finally have this completed!


I get it i get it. Just playing devils advocate lol.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Yes well, i not a "professional builder" who does a new build once a month and looking for constructive criticism. This is my first water cooled build that i spent 2 months and over 2 thousand dollars on (which is a fairly big deal to me). I'm very satisfied with the result (just needs a few sleeved cables eventually) and glad to have it completed and wanted to show it off. I was expecting good responses as this is supposed to be a niche community and id hope one of good spirits.
> 
> I could easily have just gone for a soft tubing build and not put much thought into it and had it completed relatively quickly. Sure, this isnt a professional build made to perfection. But compared to the everyday joes basic WC build id consider this pretty spiffy, especially for a first time build.
> 
> Thanks for the compliments. So happy to finally have this completed!


there is always a critic lol. nice build though







but everyone on here has OCD haha










I know myself how annoying acrylic tubing can be on some bends so if your happy with it, thats all that counts really


----------



## Bluemustang

Sig setup, GPUs under load 39C overclocked (1560mhz +87mv) and 34C stock. CPU 57C in linx 4.6ghz 1.245v (similar to IBT i think). Sound about right?

Coolant is 25c with air temp of 20c'ish (room is 19c but case temp reads 23c, so i guess its actually a 2c delta not 6c?). Coolant temps are about what i was expecting but i was hoping for a little lower component temps.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Everything a man needs right here.....



Carbon black BP enhance fittings.....sexual.....very very sexual.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Everything a man needs right here.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carbon black BP enhance fittings.....sexual.....very very sexual.


strange, you say EVERYTHING a man needs, yet i dont see a giant pile of bacon?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Glad i am not the only one who likes bitspower


----------



## dallas1990

new build with new gpu's i need to water cool them but i like to wait for 6 months till then. just for "in case one dies or oooooo shiny new gpu upgrade lol" the top card was running 10-12 degrees warmer so i took a old 120mm fan and ghetto mod it in there with one screw and a bottle 

cap lol.


----------



## MrGrievous

So I'm really on a fence here on what 240 rad I should get. I have 4 fans waiting for the new to accommodate my 420 I have and am stuck between the Monsta 240 or a Mayhems Havoc 240. I feel the Monsta will really shine thanks to the p/p setup itll get but I cant shake the awesome bargain the Havoc brings with it: saving me $40 or bucks. I need someone to kick me in the ruight direction lulz.
the fans that the rad will be getting are the Phanteks MP 120
I will also be getting a either a basis or pro bl;itz kit too based on which rad I go for.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Everything a man needs right here.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carbon black BP enhance fittings.....sexual.....very very sexual.
> 
> 
> 
> strange, you say EVERYTHING a man needs, yet i dont see a giant pile of bacon?
Click to expand...

Dude,you know me better than that,im HOLDING the bacon as it comes first!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dude,you know me better than that,im HOLDING the bacon as it comes first!


ah, that makes sense i dont know why i didnt think of that


----------



## sinnedone

Is there a woman, a car, and some power tools cropped out of that picture Bneg? If so step up your editing skills son.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So I'm really on a fence here on what 240 rad I should get. I have 4 fans waiting for the new to accommodate my 420 I have and am stuck between the Monsta 240 or a Mayhems Havoc 240. I feel the Monsta will really shine thanks to the p/p setup itll get but I cant shake the awesome bargain the Havoc brings with it: saving me $40 or bucks. I need someone to kick me in the ruight direction lulz.
> the fans that the rad will be getting are the Phanteks MP 120
> I will also be getting a either a basis or pro bl;itz kit too based on which rad I go for.


Only a suggestions but take a look at the coolgate g2 240 (65mm thick) and performs great. Believe it was actually awarded my extreme rig best overall


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dude,you know me better than that,im HOLDING the bacon as it comes first!
> 
> 
> 
> ah, that makes sense i dont know why i didnt think of that
Click to expand...

When you have a Magoo,the bacon stays in LoS at all times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Is there a woman, a car, and some power tools cropped out of that picture Bneg? If so step up your editing skills son.


I have pron,legs and a Huntsman belt tool. I thought everyone used a Huntsman for modding?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you have a Magoo,the bacon stays in LoS at all times.


i know that feel all too well.

i have a st. bernard, newfoundland and a leonberger, anything leaves LoS and its dead (eaten) instantly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Is there a woman, a car, and some power tools cropped out of that picture Bneg? If so step up your editing skills son.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you have a Magoo,the bacon stays in LoS at all times.
> 
> 
> 
> i know that feel all too well.
> 
> i have a st. bernard, newfoundland and a *leonberger*, anything leaves LoS and its dead (eaten) instantly.
Click to expand...

I have deep love for the lion dog.......

Almost as much as for Magoo.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have deep love for the lion dog.......
> 
> Almost as much as for Magoo.


i dont like playing favorites buttttttttt

in the event of a house fire the order of saving would go computer > leonberger >newfoundland >st bernard > computer accessories > gf


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont like playing favorites buttttttttt
> 
> in the event of a house fire the order of saving would go computer > leonberger >newfoundland >st bernard > computer accessories > gf


Glad you have your priorities straight


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waiting on the custom cables for the final pics


That sir is one fine looking black and gold build you got going on. I'm anxious to see the final pics! Nice to see a fellow 613er on here too lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont like playing favorites buttttttttt
> 
> in the event of a house fire the order of saving would go computer > leonberger >newfoundland >st bernard > computer accessories > gf










yep, damn straight priorities.

on a side note guys I realized after someone posted on the Aquaero thread that indeed due to dolar spiking and euro declining you can find pretty good deals on euro shops and manufacturers. For example I got a d5 PWM from Aquacomputer shop for only US$ 66 (version that follow intel specs and therefore compatible with Aquaero). That is pretty cheap and only happen due to exchange rates and the fact that VAT is not included in the price. Was really fast too and got here from Germany in only 8 days. So I am considering using more European shops and specially manufacturers shops when I can.

edit - the best part was customs here getting confused with German and letting the package slip through without import taxes


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> better than crop circles


Nope!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

No they went too far with the swiss cheese passive chipset block. I mean i actually need one but i am waiting to see if bp comes out with anything compatible with the x99 giga champ


----------



## wermad

Are these actual cf or faux cf BP fittings????


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Are these actual cf or faux cf BP fittings????


Carbon black,matt finish


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Carbon black,matt finish


mea culpa...









I see carbon..."fiber" for some reason pops up..hehehe.

So this finish?:


----------



## tatmMRKIV

O those are nice, i have them in nickel
How are they gonna not scratch around the tabs though i wonder. Its not too late for me to go black so let me know.

Also make sure you wrap a paper towel or something around them when you do them or they will straight up cut the crap out of your fingers. That slot area is really sharp. If you are using primochill advanced lrt they are tighter than usual but if you wet the tubing while u are tightening them, after you boil the ends of course, you shouldn't have any issues


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Carbon black,matt finish
> 
> 
> 
> mea culpa...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see carbon..."fiber" for some reason pops up..hehehe.
> 
> So this finish?:
Click to expand...

Those the ones...and other bits.....


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I might get a brick(monoblock) but i already have a supremacy evo


----------



## spiderloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waiting on the custom cables for the final pics


of that mb














omg so nice







i have the z87-pro version mb im buying the same case too







mite do yellow and black in mine tho rather then gold


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those the ones...and other bits.....


You'll be using these fittings? Departure from your norm (







). Will be interested on how well they lock.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those the ones...and other bits.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmm board block eh?! Looks like that suggestion sunk in, lol


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those the ones...and other bits.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


B Neg, your photography skills escalated to pro over the past 2 builds... Wow. Amazing photos! I like that hardware too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those the ones...and other bits.....
> 
> 
> 
> You'll be using these fittings? Departure from your norm (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Will be interested on how well they lock.
Click to expand...

Only where needed,bent copper is still best. I have some tight routing to do,always good to have options.

As for the board block,it's been on its way since Dec,I had to wait for ASUS to confirm the hardware.


----------



## Nick the Slick

Hi guys. New to this forum (as a member anyways haha) so figured I'd go ahead and post a quick picture of my build. Nothing as elaborate as most of you guys, but I'm proud of her. Please excuse the dust and condition of my table


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Only where needed,bent copper is still best. I have some tight routing to do,always good to have options.
> 
> As for the board block,it's been on its way since Dec,I had to wait for ASUS to confirm the hardware.


Have you tested these new fittings w/ the tube? Wondering if they lock all the way (Very few occasions do compressions screw all the way down.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick the Slick*
> 
> Hi guys. New to this forum (as a member anyways haha) so figured I'd go ahead and post a quick picture of my build. Nothing as elaborate as most of you guys, but I'm proud of her. Please excuse the dust and condition of my table


Very nice







Seems like gold is still in fashion.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont like playing favorites buttttttttt
> 
> in the event of a house fire the order of saving would go computer > leonberger >newfoundland >st bernard > computer accessories > gf


I like girls who are self sufficient, she should be able to save her self or she isn't good enough for me anyway. She should probably carry a computer while she's at it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Seems like gold is still in fashion.


Mobo etc manufacturers _could_ give us more general variety...starting with less red.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wish I had a sponsorship from BP


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Wish I had a sponsorship from BP


"with great power comes great responsibility"

I am just saying, I don't know about you, but I don't think I could do builds like that.
I mean parts coordinating is easy but modding and manufacturing. custom res mobotray? thats waaaay out of my capabilities

I'd love for g.skill or avexir or someone to give me mems to bench though, I'd like any contact with intel.

Intel doesn't really sponser afaik but thatd be ideal. I will never get anywhere where it'd be possible but, ddr3 and processors is all I REALLY need. maybe ln2.

But that is all far far far out of my reach. not even in my dreams stuff.

Ideally, I'd be nickm shih, sitting at a desk at asrock with several trays of 1000$ intel chips stacked.

lol thats kinda gone off in a direction, but man thatd be awesome to get free mems or cpus to use for benching. scraping the bottom of the barrel and playing silicone lottery is not going to get me far and is freaking expensive. It'd be fun to get free cpus to kill on ln2 or something

honestly I'd be happy if I could just pay get LN2 delivered


----------



## Nick the Slick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Mobo etc manufacturers _could_ give us more general variety...starting with less red.


Agreed. Red is my least favorite color but I really wanted to go with an ASUS board, so I decided on the Z87-Pro. Going with gold left me extremely limited on my RAM and fitting choices though. Monsoon had the only gold fittings I liked and Corsair had the only RAM with the proper gold. Of course I could have just painted stuff, but I'm almost certain I would have screwed that up somehow. I really like the look though. A good change from my blue AMD build. Still need to get me another 45 or 90* angle for the outlet on the CPU. Fudged my angle calculations in a couple of places and had to route it differently than I intended which left me an angle short.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

avexir actually has more gold on one of their ddr3

http://www.avexir.com/product/corespec-ddr3.html

unfortunately Avexir is super hard to find


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Figured I'd post my progress since I'm at a standstill until my second 690 block arrives. This is not from scratch I'm just redoing a build I rushed through the first time, went through and made the runs cleaner and added matching fittings along with a few new black 90s to match the overall color scheme. This is how it stands now.



This is the day I built her a few months ago.



I started another project almost immidiatly after I finished this one, and got caught up in making that look the best I could. Got some time and money now that my green build is complete, and figured I should make my main rig look a little better.


----------



## jfro63

biggest harbor has is 1/2" and the tap is slightly larger then the max opening of the chuck. Once I get serious with custom stuff, i may look for the right wrench.[/quote]

You need to find someone with a lathe and have the shank turned down....


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those the ones...and other bits.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mmmmm Carbon black. My fave fitting finish for sure. All my black BP fittings are carbon, matte black just isn't all that matte









I wish it was easier to find ... FrozenCPU was my main source and getting them direct from BP costs your first born. Apparently cutting out the middleman means paying more









Man soft tube compressions have really improved lately with BP's premium and EK's ACF ... they look so much better than my old ones that's for sure.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

performance is where I was able to get my dark nickel from. I think black was sold out at the time, I bought them cuz I hadn't seen them on a build before


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Oh man... I can't get over how sexy those BP strix blocks are. The only time I've regretted buying an ek gpu block. I would trade my ek block for the bitspower one anyday...

Are the bitspower carbon different than the regular black bitspower fittings?

Does anyone know where I can buy a few black bitspower rotary 90s. Would like a few double or triple rotary and a few just normal rotaries but I can't find them in stock anywhere that's not charging double what they are worth. Ppcs.com hasn't had any for over a month and I'm starting to get frustrated. I'd even take some used ones at this point, actually had to do that with my last build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> biggest harbor has is 1/2" and the tap is slightly larger then the max opening of the chuck. Once I get serious with custom stuff, i may look for the right wrench.
> 
> You need to find someone with a lathe and have the shank turned down....


I'll dig around what fits it. It may need like a metric or industrial wrench. Maybe its exclusive to cnc only, ???


----------



## kot0005

Some pics of my latest build.


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kot0005*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Some pics of my latest build.


very nice build man


----------



## bracco

Hey all, just thought I would drop in and share a couple pics of my almost complete rig. Been in the making for a year+ now, and has gone through a few different configurations. Still need to swap out a few fittings and the graphics card cables, but after that I think I'm done tinkering with it for a bit.

I prefer the white lighting, but not when it doesnt match the evga and ROG red logos. I am not sure if i want to tear everything down again to mess with the LEDs in those pieces. What do you think?


----------



## Ceadderman

Dang guys, wudja. PLEASE spoiler tag if you can or edit multiple pics out of your replies?







.

You kill those of us on phones.









~Ceadder


----------



## H2lium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> cables are on their way to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the very one Joey did for me. I think I will become a regular customer of ensourced.


is this some cable for Seasonic PSU that you custom orderered ? Because i see the 24pin splits in 2 connectors on the other side.

I was wondering if the cabling job result would be nice with seasonic PSUs? especially because they have "double-wires" (ie. 1 terminal that splits into two wires to 2 terminals on other side), meaning that it's very hard to keep cables straight since you have 28 pins on PSU side and only 24 pins on motherboard connector side.

If yes i would be very interested in these cables.

Thx for answer


----------



## kot0005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> very nice build man


Cheers.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> is this some cable for Seasonic PSU that you custom orderered ? Because i see the 24pin splits in 2 connectors on the other side.
> 
> I was wondering if the cabling job result would be nice with seasonic PSUs? especially because they have "double-wires" (ie. 1 terminal that splits into two wires to 2 terminals on other side), meaning that it's very hard to keep cables straight since you have 28 pins on PSU side and only 24 pins on motherboard connector side.
> 
> If yes i would be very interested in these cables.
> 
> Thx for answer


The EVGA G2 and P2 power supplies are also notorious for their double wires and capacitors. Speaking from experience, even my first go at sleeving the 24 pin came out nicely. I had never had experience doing it. If you were to get something professionally made from Ensourced or Lutro0, they'd look even better. Do not fear the double wire!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bracco*
> 
> Hey all, just thought I would drop in and share a couple pics of my almost complete rig. Been in the making for a year+ now, and has gone through a few different configurations. Still need to swap out a few fittings and the graphics card cables, but after that I think I'm done tinkering with it for a bit.
> 
> I prefer the white lighting, but not when it doesnt match the evga and ROG red logos. I am not sure if i want to tear everything down again to mess with the LEDs in those pieces. What do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dang, Going crazy with those extenders!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Dang, Going crazy with those extenders!


bracco did hardline before hardline was cool


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dang guys, wudja. PLEASE spoiler tag if you can or edit multiple pics out of your replies?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Who are you asking? The last few posts to this thread before yours have been original posts, not replies.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Who are you asking? The last few posts to this thread before yours have been original posts, not replies.


it was dallas1990. I saw it too and almost said something until I saw Ceadderman already did. He must have either edited it to spoiler the pics, or a mod did it for him, but it's fixed now


----------



## zzorro

my humble setup


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes ensourced has full sets of "proprietary" PSU cables such as for Seasonic Plats.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> is this some cable for Seasonic PSU that you custom orderered ? Because i see the 24pin splits in 2 connectors on the other side.
> 
> I was wondering if the cabling job result would be nice with seasonic PSUs? especially because they have "double-wires" (ie. 1 terminal that splits into two wires to 2 terminals on other side), meaning that it's very hard to keep cables straight since you have 28 pins on PSU side and only 24 pins on motherboard connector side.
> 
> If yes i would be very interested in these cables.
> 
> Thx for answer


Those are for my corsair ax1200i. But ensourced does cables for seasonic and evga PSUs also


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bracco*
> 
> Hey all, just thought I would drop in and share a couple pics of my almost complete rig. Been in the making for a year+ now, and has gone through a few different configurations. Still need to swap out a few fittings and the graphics card cables, but after that I think I'm done tinkering with it for a bit.
> 
> I prefer the white lighting, but not when it doesnt match the evga and ROG red logos. I am not sure if i want to tear everything down again to mess with the LEDs in those pieces. What do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks great mate. I prefer the white leds too.

edit - Sorry the Double post folks. It was meant as an edit to previous post. too little coffee this morning.


----------



## H2lium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Those are for my corsair ax1200i. But ensourced does cables for seasonic and evga PSUs also


Will you be able to give us feedback as to how good it came out as far as the double-wires go? i'd like to see a picture









thanks


----------



## emsj86

finally realized how to put my rig in the sig smh


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> Will you be able to give us feedback as to how good it came out as far as the double-wires go? i'd like to see a picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Double wires get spliced in the middle of the cables. You can't see anything when using them because the splices are behind the motherboard usually.
Here's my ensourced.net seasonic 1250 set with tons of double wires installed:


----------



## morencyam

@electro2u is that 16mm Bitspower tubing and fittings?


----------



## PC Upgrade

Check my new project

"PROJECT "WHITE THREAT".
CPU: i7 3770K @ 4.6GHZ

MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS V FORMULA

RAM:16GB 4X4 KINGSTON HYPERX BEAST @2400

PSU:CORSAIR AX860 PLATINUM

GPU:2X ASUS GTX 770 OC DCII @SLI

HDD:1TB SEAGATE , 500GB SEAGATE , 500GB SEAGATE , 400GB WD

SSD: KINGSTON 450\450 120GB

CASE:COOLERMASTER HAF X MODDED

WATERCOOLING

RADIATORS:2X EK WATERBLOCKS 240, 1X EK WATERBLOCKS 120

PUMPS: EK WATERBLOCKS DC4, XSPC DC3 RESERVOIR BAY COMBO

FITTINGS: EK WATERBLOCKS AND ALPHACOOL

TUBINGRIMOCHILL PRIMOFLEX ADVANCED LRT CLEAR

COOLANT:EK WATERBLOCKS PASTEL WHITE

CPU WATERBLOCK: EK WATERBLOCKS LTX BLACK

MOTHERBOARD: STOCK WATERCOOLING SYSTEM

GPUS: EK WATERBLOCKS FULL COVER GTX 770 OC DCII BLOCKS

BRIDGE: EK WATERBLOCKS TRIPLE PARALLEL CLEAR

FANS: 3X CORSAIR 120 SP HIGH PERFORMANCE EDITION, 2X CORSAIR 120 AF HIGH PERFORMANCE, 1X CORSAIR AF 140 WHITE LED

CABLES: ALL CABLES ARE SLEEVED NZXT BLACK AND WHITE

LEDS: AKASA WHITE VEGAS


----------



## PC Upgrade

Check my new project

http://www.overclock.net/t/1545817/project-white-threat


----------



## emsj86

.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Double wires get spliced in the middle of the cables. You can't see anything when using them because the splices are behind the motherboard usually.
> Here's my ensourced.net seasonic 1250 set with tons of double wires installed:


that carbon accenting looks fantastic!


----------



## emsj86

Not sure if it will look good or not but did some measurements. And thinking off bing my psu with the rubber ads to optical bays. Than cutting the bottom where the psu was adding a 480 and add some light ue acrylic sheets to cover up holes and to make some panels. Would mods mesh optical bay cover so I can run my power cord right out the front without looking bad. What our your thoughts.


----------



## Ceadderman

That HAF is just so awesomesauce PC Upgrade!









An, yes offending post was edited. Normally I don't say much about those things. But when I see the same pics directly afterward, I just have to. Much appreciated to whomever edited.









~Ceadder


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

Thanks a lot Ceadderman!







And sorry about double pics! my bad!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> Thanks a lot Ceadderman!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sorry about double pics! my bad!


No worries.









Loving my new phone right now







I have brackets!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Galaxy S4












~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No worries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving my new phone right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have brackets!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Galaxy S4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Still getting used to my new phone went from my Nokia 925 to a Apple 6+ but it's nice having such a large screen to view OCN WC Club w/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No worries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving my new phone right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have brackets!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Galaxy S4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still getting used to my new phone went from my Nokia 925 to a Apple 6+ but it's nice having such a large screen to view OCN WC Club w/
Click to expand...

Contemplating pulling the trigger on a Padphone Go phone. Thing is MASSIVE and data rates don't apply.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> finally realized how to put my rig in the sig smh












The Cautious One


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> @electro2u is that 16mm Bitspower tubing and fittings?


Yep =)

Edit: Wait. It's actually Monsoon tubing, bitspower fittings, but it's 16mm
The 16mm Crystal link tubing actually didn't fit the enhanced MultiLinks.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No worries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving my new phone right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have brackets!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Galaxy S4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still getting used to my new phone went from my Nokia 925 to a Apple 6+ but it's nice having such a large screen to view OCN WC Club w/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Contemplating pulling the trigger on a Padphone Go phone. Thing is MASSIVE and data rates don't apply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

*pssst* OnePlus One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

MOAR BITSPOWAAAAAAAAHH!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

So that's where all the fitting I need went









Thanks Bneg. Thanks









The Cautious One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So that's where all the fitting I need went
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bneg. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


I think I have 20 of each fitting here.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think I have 20 of each fitting here.....


No Its Cool. Rub It in. I enjoy that, being teased by Tons of fittings that are easily 10 - 15 $ a piece. Yea.... I don't need those. Not at all.









The Cautious One

(I am trying to make myself feel better)


----------



## Gabrielzm

If you didn't vote for the MOTM head over there folks. An amazing collection of builds this month. Hard to decide. Will have to think for one or two more days to make my mind.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1542037/ocn-mod-of-the-month-february-2015-sponsored-class-vote-now


----------



## wermad

Vote for pedro


----------



## tatmMRKIV

can get different diameters and even matte black, more colors too. Professionalplastics.com

I have one a city or 2 over that can get me anything i need as far as plastics go. No machining, but they are working on it


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> 
> 
> can get different diameters and even matte black, more colors too. Professionalplastics.com
> 
> I have one a city or 2 over that can get me anything i need as far as plastics go. No machining, but they are working on it


Matte black and gunmetal sound intriguing.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

It does, do it up bro, its out there. they didnt have it for me to see at the location i was at but its available
I think it was called e55


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Well boys... after hours of obstacles I did it. I got 2 690s into a corsair 540 and was able to keep my 250mm frozen q spiral res in the build. Pretty happy with the result but there is absolutely no more room in this little case for anything. Glad I moved up a size in tubing and o think the monsoon fittings look great because they match my res. What do you guys think?


----------



## marshymellows

Are there any benefits of going with acrylic for windows insted of real glass(if you dont consider strength of the different materials)?


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Are there any benefits of going with acrylic for windows insted of real glass(if you dont consider strength of the different materials)?


I don't think there is really any benifit for either except weight and strength. I prefer acrylic because it's light and don't have to worry about it shattering if something bumps it. Plus watercooled rigs are usually so heavy already I like to take weight off anywhere I can.


----------



## bracco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Dang, Going crazy with those extenders!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> bracco did hardline before hardline was cool


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It looks great mate. I prefer the white leds too.


heh yea, a full extender dual loop build, no tubing. 70+ fittings to build the piping between the two halves of the case (Corsair Air 540). The backside of the case i feel like i can improve the layout, but i am not sure if i am going to bother. I have one of the pumps and reservoirs Sitting on a custom shelf i made on top of the PSU. One of the worst places for it, but it made sense when i first put this thing together last year.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No worries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving my new phone right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have brackets!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Galaxy S4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still getting used to my new phone went from my Nokia 925 to a Apple 6+ but it's nice having such a large screen to view OCN WC Club w/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Contemplating pulling the trigger on a Padphone Go phone. Thing is MASSIVE and data rates don't apply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *pssst* OnePlus One
Click to expand...



Have ta say that I really dig this one. It's larger and serves dual purpose.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Are there any benefits of going with acrylic for windows insted of real glass(if you dont consider strength of the different materials)?


Acrylic is a bit more durable, glass gives a better view.









Looks like I am gonna do o-ring hardline fittings. Sucks that I cannot get Black/Red Chaingun fittings. Completely out of stock at PPCs'. At least I will get 12 instead of 8 for the same amount. So looks like I will be selling the 4 Chainguns I got.









~Ceadder


----------



## bracco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like I am gonna do o-ring hardline fittings. Sucks that I cannot get Black/Red Chaingun fittings. Completely out of stock at PPCs'. At least I will get 12 instead of 8 for the same amount. So looks like I will be selling the 4 Chainguns I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


How is the resale market for new/unused water cooling components? I have a ton of parts that I've bought and dont think I'll ever get any use out of, but cant justify dumping them for <50% of what I originally paid, at that rate I'd rather keep "just in case".


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Have ta say that I really dig this one. It's larger and serves dual purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i want one of those, thats awesome a phone AND a tablet?!

@bracco it depends on the part everytrhing other than blocks is like 80%


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bracco*
> 
> How is the resale market for new/unused water cooling components? I have a ton of parts that I've bought and dont think I'll ever get any use out of, but cant justify dumping them for <50% of what I originally paid, at that rate I'd rather keep "just in case".


Here in Au most things seem to sell for about half of retail or even less for some things. Water cooling has become very fashion based so old parts just don't have the it factor.
I have bought current gen and just previous gen GPU blocks for a quarter of retail. Perfect condition.

Its that reason many of us (me included) have large collections of parts.


----------



## bracco

Good to know some things might bring a few $ back to me.

Here are a few more pics of my rig as it evolved.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Have ta say that I really dig this one. It's larger and serves dual purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i want one of those, thats awesome a phone AND a tablet?!
Click to expand...

Now you understand why I am seriously considering it. I had one in my hands at the [email protected] an was like...









Even tried to get my daughter to get one instead of an htc.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Now you understand why I am seriously considering it. I had one in my hands at the [email protected] an was like...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even tried to get my daughter to get one instead of an htc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dude, y when I bought my first smartphone in 2-3 years, a galaxy note 3, I straight up asked, is there anyway I could use one of these tablets as a phone, I dont use the phone much afterall

I was close to just going for the tablet hooked up to the net without any phone service but that was the whole reason that I was there so... LOL

i have an s5 now and I can't type to save my life on the tiny screen.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you didn't vote for the MOTM head over there folks. An amazing collection of builds this month. Hard to decide. Will have to think for one or two more days to make my mind.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542037/ocn-mod-of-the-month-february-2015-sponsored-class-vote-now


Some very nice builds there.

Interesting the way the voting seems to be going. I might be way off, but to me transferring a bunch of components from one case to another does not really count as a new build in my mind. If I did it I wouldn't be calling it that at least.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you didn't vote for the MOTM head over there folks. An amazing collection of builds this month. Hard to decide. Will have to think for one or two more days to make my mind.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542037/ocn-mod-of-the-month-february-2015-sponsored-class-vote-now
> 
> 
> 
> Some very nice builds there.
> 
> Interesting the way the voting seems to be going. I might be way off, but to me transferring a bunch of components from one case to another does not really count as a new build in my mind. If I did it I wouldn't be calling it that at least.
Click to expand...

Its exactly how I feel.
MOTM...with no modding....who knew....


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Really dumb question, what do you guys do if you get water in a PCI lane?

Got my loop filled and bleeding it, realized the top plug wasn't fully screwed in and was dripping water down to my GPU


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Really dumb question, what do you guys do if you get water in a PCI lane?
> 
> Got my loop filled and bleeding it, realized the top plug wasn't fully screwed in and was dripping water down to my GPU


Blast it with compressed air and a heat gun til its dry

I've done the ol' fill in the top while its gushing out the bottom trick many a time. So don't feel special or anything









Maybe a good lesson and time to think about switching to air leak testing though. It isn't expensive and really does make a world of difference. I just recently took it up so no more dumb dumb 'leaks' for me. (leaving both GPU ports open isn't really leaking as such)


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Blast it with compressed air and a heat gun til its dry
> 
> I've done the ol' fill in the top while its gushing out the bottom trick many a time. So don't feel special or anything


Cool thanks







, dunno how I didnt notice it was loose, then again I did have paper towel over the GPU (which did all of jack this time)

So close to having the damn thing filled and I derp again

Guess I need to rip this whole thing apart to dry it to?


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

If someone could help me please! i was painting a ferniture with a white spray and i accidently got some particles on my asus monitor! anyone knows how to remove tha sprey from my screen without dealing any damage??? :\ I asked a paint store and they told me they couldnt help! so if anyone of you could! :\ thanks in advance! sorry for my bad english!
This is my monitor:


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Does anyone here have 4 to 5 bitspower 90 rotary adapters they would want to sell me? Can't find them anywhere and I know some of you could use some money with all these crazy rigs your always building..


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MOAR BITSPOWAAAAAAAAHH!


Nice sharp pictures and lighting. What kit are you using for your photography? Camera/lens/lighting?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MOAR BITSPOWAAAAAAAAHH!
> 
> 
> 
> Nice sharp pictures and lighting. What kit are you using for your photography? Camera/lens/lighting?
Click to expand...

I was using a 350d until recently then I saw a EOS M going cheap..not a dslr tho,its a system camera that uses the 650d sensor and also does good video,which the 350d doesn't do.

Lights,for those shots it was just my monitor with a full screen empty notepad open. Case shots, i use a 800mm octagon softbox top lighting the subject.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> If someone could help me please! i was painting a ferniture with a white spray and i accidently got some particles on my asus monitor! anyone knows how to remove tha sprey from my screen without dealing any damage??? :\ I asked a paint store and they told me they couldnt help! so if anyone of you could! :\ thanks in advance! sorry for my bad english!
> This is my monitor:


Hot water and soap..... or perhaps acetone.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was using a 350d until recently then I saw a EOS M going cheap..not a dslr tho,its a system camera that uses the 650d sensor and also does good video,which the 350d doesn't do.
> 
> Lights,for those shots it was just my monitor with a full screen empty notepad open. Case shots, i use a 800mm octagon softbox top lighting the subject.


How much does one of these cameras go for used?


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

i did it! as clean as new!







i used a label remover spray and it worked like a charm!







but thank you for your advice B NEGATIVE


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its exactly how I feel.
> MOTM...with no modding....who knew....


Very sad indeed.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was using a 350d until recently then I saw a EOS M going cheap..not a dslr tho,its a system camera that uses the 650d sensor and also does good video,which the 350d doesn't do.
> 
> Lights,for those shots it was just my monitor with a full screen empty notepad open. Case shots, i use a 800mm octagon softbox top lighting the subject.
> 
> 
> 
> How much does one of these cameras go for used?
Click to expand...

The 350d can be had for $50 on fleabay.

The EOS M was $700 but can be had for as little as $300 on fleabay again.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Very sad indeed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its exactly how I feel.
> MOTM...with no modding....who knew....


No modding? Open your eyes?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Very sad indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its exactly how I feel.
> MOTM...with no modding....who knew....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No modding? Open your eyes?
Click to expand...

Show me the case modding? Only 2 cases were modded. One is a custom case,2 are completely stock.


----------



## catbuster

U said no modding, now u say 2 cases are modded, so why rules even let those builds to enter MOTM?

For me modding doesnt have to involve taking dremmel and cuting case in half... attention to detail and overall result that matters for me...

MetallicAcid build heavy modded
B Neg build heavy modded
niklot1981 case is custom
snef case is modded
abirli case us custom

if you are upsed you are not winning and think other builds dont deserve to be in competition go and tell them dat


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Niklot and Snefs case are completely stock.

My niggle is not Snef winning,rather the fact that modding seems to be secondary now. This is sponsored class,people are supposed,IMHO,to push the boundaries.
Not just transplant kit from another build,paint and sleeve the PSU and call it a day.
Just my 2p and its obviously not shared by you.


----------



## catbuster

Yes we seem to share different opinions about modding, i am sorry if my post offended you.. I follow your builds and have a high respect for you as a modder.

I think this month has really great line up and everyone has put a lot of effort in their builds


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Niklot and Snefs case are completely stock.
> 
> My niggle is not Snef winning,rather the fact that modding seems to be secondary now. This is sponsored class,people are supposed,IMHO,to push the boundaries.
> Not just transplant kit from another build,paint and sleeve the PSU and call it a day.
> Just my 2p and its obviously not shared by you.


Well it is certainly shared by me, . . .

I don't recall that I've ever previously posted in the MOTM thread, as I'm not on OCN for the politics . . .

But I did this time, and I'd like to share the sentiment here:

You guys have hit the nail squarely on the head . . . . relative to the psychology of what people identify with, and hence, what they are more inclined to vote for..

It's all about "relatability" . . . . . and perceived affordability . . . . The, "I could buy all those components, and if I just had a little more experience, I could make that too", mindset prevails.

As soon as it involves real engineering or special fabrication, at least half the potential voters are turned off, as they can't relate any more, either from the ability perspective, the perceived cost perspective, or both.

As the OCN demographic seems to be getting younger, expect the more "relatable" builds to continue to dominate MOTM.

The perspective of what Mod really means has been soooooo watered down, . . . it really is sad, Very sad indeed.

Now imagine if you had to have the same minimum reps to vote as you do to use the market place . . . . . . . . . . . how different the results might be . . .

Darlene


----------



## guitarhero23

Gets into "Mod of the Month" vs "Build of the month" delineations.


----------



## szeged

my thoughts on the current MOTM situation

theres a huge difference between building a fancy loop that looks cool and completely customizing your entire system to look cool.

my sth10 has no mods in it currently(working on it lol) but it does have a full acrylic loop and for some reason that qualifies it for MOD of the month?

maybe they should open up a watercooling loop of the month and seperate watercooling loops(no matter how good they are) and mod of the month.

No disrespect to anyone in the current MOTM competition, you all did a fantastic job, i especially like the AUDI build and metallicacid's build, which i voted for.


----------



## snef

@B NEGATIVE

how you can tel its transplant from another build???? because its same motherboard?

seriously?

and I will tell you again, im not a modder in your terms or your vision, fine, im ok with this
now, your right, can you pass to another thing and stop bugging me at every build or anything I did, you're right , you win

for sure, all mod you did, you madethese by yourself, like acrylic reservoir, or sure you cut by yourself all copper plate for the R40, no one cut these for you
yes you did all by your self, no one do this for you.........oh same thing for the big EK logo on Vulture, you did it with dremel?

Metallicacid made all by himself, can we callhim a real modder?

again your right, you are the master, you win , now, forgive me and stop
again, you win, you will never see me again in MOTM, this one is the first and the last one
im sure you have something better to do in your life than make negative commentary


----------



## szeged

snef i dont think anyone wants you to quit doing MOTM at all, the last thing we need more people with your eye for detail around here.


----------



## Wolfsbora

My inspiration for going with acrylic on my very first build was B Neg (even though he was (and still is) promoting copper







). Normally I would not enjoy the case utilized for Lumo but he took it to an entirely different level. The integrated reservoir is one of the greatest custom reservoirs I've seen (regardless of who manufactured it).

snef on the other hand has such an eye for color. His ability to balance color on any of his builds is second to none. This is true for every visible part of the build. They eye's first attraction is color and snef has it nailed.

Then the countless other users on here that I draw inspiration from...

What I'm trying to say here, is that everyone will have a differing opinion on what is modded and what is custom, however, everyone here has something to offer. That's why we all spend hours in a day looking at each other's builds. We are inspired by each other whether you agree with it or not. Now start getting along and start your next builds!!


----------



## MURDoctrine

While I normally would agree with the sentiment that the builds in the Mod of the Month category should have modifications I certainly disagree with those there not being modded. The only one that looks kinda "stock" to me was niklots even though it is a gorgeous build. Just because cases haven't been hacked to crap doesn't mean something has not been modified. I see painted motherboars/heatspreaders, painted PSU's, custom HDD/SSD mounting locations and custom sleeving. Hell even a custom loop is a "modified" means of cooling. Sure to us in this thread it is very tame but to someone who exclusively air cools it looks awesome and seems highly modded. You have to keep that in mind. I was torn between both B Neg's mod and snefs when I was voting because I liked both a lot. I felt like B Neg had a few more "mods" but snefs is visually more appealing to me. So I voted for snef. I have a strong feeling others did the same thing and voted for the one they thought was visually appealing over which had the most mods. I say props to all that were nominated and thanks for giving us awesome builds to enjoy looking at. You guys inspire a lot of us with your mods so please don't fight.


----------



## Turbz

Nothing positive is going to come of discussing this here. If you have grievances about the process, make a thread in the appropriate section and/or discuss with mods.

I came here to tap into and contribute to the huge amount of creativity seen here every day. Please don't push people like me away with politics.


----------



## snef

thanks
Im still posting Build log here, for sure and finish the actual MOTM but will not accept any other nomination,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> 
> how you can tel its transplant from another build???? because its same motherboard?
> 
> seriously?
> 
> and I will tell you again, im not a modder in your terms or your vision, fine, im ok with this
> now, your right, can you pass to another thing and stop bugging me at every build or anything I did, you're right , you win
> 
> for sure, all mod you did, you madethese by yourself, like acrylic reservoir, or sure you cut by yourself all copper plate for the R40, no one cut these for you
> yes you did all by your self, no one do this for you.........oh same thing for the big EK logo on Vulture, you did it with dremel?
> 
> Metallicacid made all by himself, can we callhim a real modder?
> 
> again your right, you are the master, you win , now, forgive me and stop
> again, you win, you will never see me again in MOTM, this one is the first and the last one
> im sure you have something better to do in your life than make negative commentary


All the parts I had made are the result of hours in solidworks modelling then creating drawings for anyone to cut,no rough sketches given out for others to make into engineers drawings. The EK Vulture cut out is done BY HAND BY MYSELF,jigsaw and filed to finish.
The HEX panels are standard pattern but a different material and they will be acid etched,patina'd and mirror polished,they will have more hours put in to them than the rest of the build..so yes,they will be hard work.

If your kit isn't a transplant then I apologise. But answer this,is it a transplant? All the backplates,bridges et certainly are,the sli bridge doesn't even fit a dual card setup.

I notice you singled me put when other members have said the same thing...go on,give them some of your hate....


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All the parts I had made are the result of hours in solidworks modelling then creating drawings for anyone to cut,no rough sketches given out for others to make into engineers drawings. The EK Vulture cut out is done BY HAND BY MYSELF,jigsaw and filed to finish.
> 
> If your kit isn't a transplant then I apologise. But answer this,is it a transplant? All the backplates,bridges et certainly are,the sli bridge doesn't even fit a dual card setup.
> 
> I notice you singled me put when other members have said the same thing...go on,give them some of your hate....


yes its a very load of work asking Nate to cut his case in copper plate instead of Acrylic

I didn't include the other in this because they don't make any negative comments on me or my work,
and they have the answer in this post

not a transplant, bridge was made for a sabertooth at begening of the project, Hex-Gear ask me in middle of thisproject, I just didn't cut it to the right length because hide all GPU pci mount

and im done with you, you deserve no more answer, no more time to spend , and anyway I will never win or have the last word with you'

again, you win, you are right, now, spend your time to hate anybody else


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All the parts I had made are the result of hours in solidworks modelling then creating drawings for anyone to cut,no rough sketches given out for others to make into engineers drawings. The EK Vulture cut out is done BY HAND BY MYSELF,jigsaw and filed to finish.
> 
> If your kit isn't a transplant then I apologise. But answer this,is it a transplant? All the backplates,bridges et certainly are,the sli bridge doesn't even fit a dual card setup.
> 
> I notice you singled me put when other members have said the same thing...go on,give them some of your hate....


you dont have to spend hours in solidworks though! thats something i learnt in the beggining haha.









sketchup to DXF. then import it into whatever program you make your Gcode or NC files in for laser cutting. close any open nodes







job done!
they only have to be simple 2D vector drawings really. solidworks is a waste of time imo. its the quickest workflow i have found anyway.

the only time i would use solidworks is for something done on a 5 axis machine and if i was programming the Gcode for a particular machine with custom rigging.

do you program the Gcode in solidcam aswell NEG? just curious, as i can share with you my workflow! might save you tons of time


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> How much does one of these cameras go for used?


Look into the 450D(XSi) love mine, still processing my last few sets of photos


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All the parts I had made are the result of hours in solidworks modelling then creating drawings for anyone to cut,no rough sketches given out for others to make into engineers drawings. The EK Vulture cut out is done BY HAND BY MYSELF,jigsaw and filed to finish.
> 
> If your kit isn't a transplant then I apologise. But answer this,is it a transplant? All the backplates,bridges et certainly are,the sli bridge doesn't even fit a dual card setup.
> 
> I notice you singled me put when other members have said the same thing...go on,give them some of your hate....
> 
> 
> 
> you dont have to spend hours in solidworks though! thats something i learnt in the beggining haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sketchup to DXF. then import it into whatever program you make your Gcode or NC files in for laser cutting. close any open nodes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> job done!
> they only have to be simple 2D vector drawings really. solidworks is a waste of time imo. its the quickest workflow i have found anyway.
> 
> the only time i would use solidworks is for something done on a 5 axis machine and if i was programming the Gcode for a particular machine with custom rigging.
> 
> do you program the Gcode in solidcam aswell NEG? just curious, as i can share with you my workflow! might save you tons of time
Click to expand...

It certainly takes me a while,there are lots of co-dependant models to make sure everything fits. Panels take no time at all but the likes of the tray for Lumo take time. Math modelling is much better than mesh modelling for me.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Jeez sorry about mentioning sponsership, i was trying to say id never be good enough to get sponsered, not that i could do it if i was sponsered xD

Jeez, i for one, like both your guys builds


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Jeez sorry about mentioning sponsership, i was trying to say id never be good enough to get sponsered, not that i could do it if i was sponsered xD
> 
> Jeez, i for one, like both your guys builds


Its not about sponsors,many high quality builds are not sponsored.

This is about me commenting on someone elses post and Snef doesn't like my opinion hence the dramatics. If he actually read the preceding post,he would of seen that the I didn't even think about the 'transplanting' until the preceding post mentioned it.

Not once did I 'attack' him like he claims.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Well it is certainly shared by me, . . .
> 
> I don't recall that I've ever previously posted in the MOTM thread, as I'm not on OCN for the politics . . .
> 
> But I did this time, and I'd like to share the sentiment here:
> 
> You guys have hit the nail squarely on the head . . . . relative to the psychology of what people identify with, and hence, what they are more inclined to vote for..
> 
> It's all about "relatability" . . . . . and perceived affordability . . . . The, "I could buy all those components, and if I just had a little more experience, I could make that too", mindset prevails.
> 
> As soon as it involves real engineering or special fabrication, at least half the potential voters are turned off, as they can't relate any more, either from the ability perspective, the perceived cost perspective, or both.
> 
> As the OCN demographic seems to be getting younger, expect the more "relatable" builds to continue to dominate MOTM.
> 
> The perspective of what Mod really means has been soooooo watered down, . . . it really is sad, Very sad indeed.
> 
> Now imagine if you had to have the same minimum reps to vote as you do to use the market place . . . . . . . . . . . how different the results might be . . .
> 
> Darlene


I agree with this statement not only for here but in other hobbies as well, namely the car scene.

It takes alot of work to take something and make it fit and look like it came stock that way. That simply goes unseen by most, but those who really know how to develop and make parts from scratch or modify things know the work put into it.

I'm going to add a little bit to this though. Even though some of us go out of the way to make things our own in the end we have to appreciate the differences. Just think about it this way. What if everyones style of modding was like mine? It would be a boring place indeed since after a while everything would look the same. Maybe not quite the mod of the month, but build of the month... I can live with that.


----------



## Hefner

Some members' inability to take criticism is quite sad. Regardless, I think most of the criticism is pointed at MOTM guidelines and rules and their lack of clarity. I think last months winner was way worse and exemplifies this much better.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I personally love contructive criticism especially from peers who can put out builds that I strive to be on par with, so any help/ criticisms are always appreciated since I know there is something I'll be blind to in a build after looking at the same components for so long. Hopefully I'll get some work done in the remainder of this week to be worthy of such criticism (originally a Graphics Design major so it comes w/ the territory







)


----------



## szeged

i prefer criticism instead of people just blindly saying what they think you want to hear.


----------



## guitarhero23

My favorite was the guy who posted a picture of his build, one person said they didn't like one of the tubes, He got all offended and said people in a niche community should be supporting eachother. Wanted just showers of praise. Build was fine but shouldn't get so offended that someone didn't like one run of tube.


----------



## morencyam

The whole reason I post pics here and make a build log so is so people can criticize and make suggestions. I want to know where I can improve my build(s). Just because I think it looks good doesn't mean everyone else will. Maybe just by trying someone's suggestion, you will discover that it may actually look better than what you previously had. If not, then change it back, no harm done.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> My favorite was the guy who posted a picture of his build, one person said they didn't like one of the tubes, He got all offended and said people in a niche community should be supporting each other. Wanted just showers of praise. Build was fine but shouldn't get so offended that someone didn't like one run of tube.


I remember that. His argument was that he spent two months on it and it's perfect so if you don't have anything nice to say then shut up. Heck, I spent almost a year and a half on my build. We all spend hours and hours on our builds. Point is, considering the amount of immaculate builds with professional level photography that get posted here regularly, posting pics a first time build shot with a camera phone or cheap point and shoot will either be ignored completely or not get the best reception. But what it really comes down to is whether or not you like your own build.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The whole reason I post pics here and make a build log so is so people can criticize and make suggestions. I want to know where I can improve my build(s). Just because I think it looks good doesn't mean everyone else will. Maybe just by trying someone's suggestion, you will discover that it may actually look better than what you previously had. If not, then change it back, no harm done.


^ this


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> My favorite was the guy who posted a picture of his build, one person said they didn't like one of the tubes, He got all offended and said people in a niche community should be supporting eachother. Wanted just showers of praise. Build was fine but shouldn't get so offended that someone didn't like one run of tube.


there was someone who took down his entire build log because he got mad that someone pointed out a tiny flaw in one of the fittings or something, dont remember exactly but he went full postal on everyone in the thread and took down all his pictures and edited all his posts lol.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It certainly takes me a while,there are lots of co-dependant models to make sure everything fits. Panels take no time at all but the likes of the tray for Lumo take time. Math modelling is much better than mesh modelling for me.


you dont make it 3D in skp







you use 2D vector drawings.or you can make a 3d model if needed & then just take the 2d outlines you need. when people make the toolpaths they set the stock/depths of cut etc

solidworks works in 2 different ways as you know. when in solid mode its essentially just giving you a 3D view when you are generating depths/heights or toolpaths in solidcam.

modelling in solidworks is labour intensive imo. for the amount of time you spend measuring & plotting out stuff. it takes a few mins in skp & then you can take what you need into solidworks & jump straight to solidcam









its a much faster method trust me







I know you have your methods but honestly that res tray, which is awesome by the way








would take less than a quarter of the time to do it by my method. if you understand what i mean you would be like









I think though in your case you would struggle to grasp the concept as it sounds like you dont do the gcode or solidcam part?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> there was someone who took down his entire build log because he got mad that someone pointed out a tiny flaw in one of the fittings or something, dont remember exactly but he went full postal on everyone in the thread and took down all his pictures and edited all his posts lol.


holy crap! haha. That guy must have had a build log to simply stroke his ego and didn't want any idea brainstorming or build help.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> holy crap! haha. That guy must have had a build log to simply stroke his ego and didn't want any idea brainstorming or build help.


i think thats pretty much it lol, basically wanted everyone to bow to him like a computer building god, turns out he wasnt as good as he thought lol.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> there was someone who took down his entire build log because he got mad that someone pointed out a tiny flaw in one of the fittings or something, dont remember exactly but he went full postal on everyone in the thread and took down all his pictures and edited all his posts lol.
> 
> 
> 
> holy crap! haha. That guy must have had a build log to simply stroke his ego and didn't want any idea brainstorming or build help.
Click to expand...

I remember that. Or at least something like that. Guy was doing a build using something like 4x 480 Monstas, 2x Frozen Q tube reservoirs, a Frozen Q Bay res, and a bunch of real high end hardware but just all thrown willy nilly into a MountainMods Ascension and got all butt hurt when someone said he needed to clean up the cable management. He basically said eff off my build is epic, then got even more mad when everyone else said there was nothing special about it. So he starts rambling off how much this cost him and how much that cost him. In the end he took down the build log and parted out and sold everything.


----------



## emsj86

After reading this thread for months. There our alit of people that our great and help you. But there is a ton of egos as well. It's suppose to be fun. Tell it how it is doesn't always make it right. Help and criticism can be good. But saying I can't stand those horizontal lines does what. That's more just bashing. Rather than giving feedback or suggestion saying hey you can do this or try this. And maybe they will take it or not. Not trying to start anything. But saw that and it kinda bothered me. I do agree just don't say hey it amazing if you don't feel that way but saying I can't stand those lines does what? Give the guy a suggestion instead is all I'm saying. Rant over


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I remember that. Or at least something like that. Guy was doing a build using something like 4x 480 Monstas, 2x Frozen Q tube reservoirs, a Frozen Q Bay res, and a bunch of real high end hardware but just all thrown willy nilly into a MountainMods Ascension and got all butt hurt when someone said he needed to clean up the cable management. He basically said eff off my build is epic, then got even more mad when everyone else said there was nothing special about it. So he starts rambling off how much this cost him and how much that cost him. In the end he took down the build log and parted out and sold everything.


yep thats the one lol.

he basically took a bunch of expensive parts and half assed them into a case and was like BEHOLD MY CREDIT CARD GLORY FOR I AM KINGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG

then someone was like nah it kinda suxxxxx

and then he exploded.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I remember that. Or at least something like that. Guy was doing a build using something like 4x 480 Monstas, 2x Frozen Q tube reservoirs, a Frozen Q Bay res, and a bunch of real high end hardware but just all thrown willy nilly into a MountainMods Ascension and got all butt hurt when someone said he needed to clean up the cable management. He basically said eff off my build is epic, then got even more mad when everyone else said there was nothing special about it. So he starts rambling off how much this cost him and how much that cost him. In the end he took down the build log and parted out and sold everything.


This is hilarious. Apparently he didn't like computers much if he would just sell everything.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yep thats the one lol.
> 
> he basically took a bunch of expensive parts and half assed them into a case and was like BEHOLD MY CREDIT CARD GLORY FOR I AM KINGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
> 
> then someone was like nah it kinda suxxxxx
> 
> and then he exploded.


Exactly. My favorite comment in that whole thread(can't remember who it was) was something along the lines of:

OP: MY BUILD IS EPIC! TELL ME HOW AMAZING I AM!
user: The only thing epic about this build is the amount if work that still needs to be done on it

I thin that one pushed him over the edge. I thin he may have even deleted his account. Said he was getting no respect and didn't deserve to be treated this way.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Exactly. My favorite comment in that whole thread(can't remember who it was) was something along the lines of:
> 
> OP: MY BUILD IS EPIC! TELL ME HOW AMAZING I AM!
> user: The only thing epic about this build is the amount if work that still needs to be done on it
> 
> I thin that one pushed him over the edge. I thin he may have even deleted his account. Said he was getting no respect and didn't deserve to be treated this way.


hahaha yeah i remember that, man he was a bottle of rage ready to explode, personally im glad hes gone, we dont need people like that floating around here.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hahaha yeah i remember that, man he was a bottle of rage ready to explode, personally im glad hes gone, we dont need people like that floating around here.


Me too. His Marketplace Part Out thread was titled "Massive no respect part out!" lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Cautious One


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Me too. His Marketplace Part Out thread was titled "Massive no respect part out!" lol


hahaha man thats just gold right there lol.


----------



## Yianni89

don;t mean to interrupt the reminiscing, however i would like a couple of opinions on my water cooling set up, granted i will hear mixed things here as i have heard everywhere else, but it cant hurt to confuse my brain even more right









so i have an h440, which i have modded the front panel of to allow for a push pull set up on a Monsta 360 see pictures in spoiler 1...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











i will also have a slim 30mm -240mm rad up top.

I'll be running a 5960X and 2x gtx 980's all of which will be on water.

I have already measured and drawn up the plans of where the pump and reservoir and everything will go so i know my components will fit in just fine my question is more to do with which way the loop should flow... the most economical way and neatest way when thinking about the tubing is res - pump - GPU's - CPU - 240 - 360 - res however i have no idea if this is going to be any good or not as its my first water loop ever. now in theory i can take the tubes anywhich way i want and i'll have to figure out how to make it look good along the way.

my second issue is which way to have the fans blowing.... now originally i modded the front to increase the cases capacity to move clean air (make it more practical right?) however im hearing many opinions that my front rad should be exhausting air.... my room as an ambient temp of around 19-21 degrees even in summer so its pretty average maybe even slightly cold. i will not be overclocking anything very much as 1. i havnt ever before, and 2. for my use i dont think i would need to all that much. there is also a 140mm exhaust i can use. all the fans bar the 140mm are noisblocker eloops as you can see from the above pictures.

Greatly appreciative of all responses


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hahaha man thats just gold right there lol.


Found the FS Thread, but the build log is gone. The first line is priceless lol. The build is actually not as bad as I remember it. It also seems he didn't delete is account, but isn't very active anymore
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> don;t mean to interrupt the reminiscing, however i would like a couple of opinions on my water cooling set up, granted i will hear mixed things here as i have heard everywhere else, but it cant hurt to confuse my brain even more right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i have an h440, which i have modded the front panel of to allow for a push pull set up on a Monsta 360 see pictures in spoiler 1...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will also have a slim 30mm -240mm rad up top.
> 
> I'll be running a 5960X and 2x gtx 980's all of which will be on water.
> 
> I have already measured and drawn up the plans of where the pump and reservoir and everything will go so i know my components will fit in just fine my question is more to do with which way the loop should flow... the most economical way and neatest way when thinking about the tubing is res - pump - GPU's - CPU - 240 - 360 - res however i have no idea if this is going to be any good or not as its my first water loop ever. now in theory i can take the tubes anywhich way i want and i'll have to figure out how to make it look good along the way.
> 
> my second issue is which way to have the fans blowing.... now originally i modded the front to increase the cases capacity to move clean air (make it more practical right?) however im hearing many opinions that my front rad should be exhausting air.... my room as an ambient temp of around 19-21 degrees even in summer so its pretty average maybe even slightly cold. i will not be overclocking anything very much as 1. i havnt ever before, and 2. for my use i dont think i would need to all that much. there is also a 140mm exhaust i can use. all the fans bar the 140mm are noisblocker eloops as you can see from the above pictures.
> 
> Greatly appreciative of all responses


Aside from res before pump, loop order has very little impact on core temps. Just route the tube is the neatest configuration.

As far as radiator fan orientation, general consensus is to have all radiators as intake to guarantee they get the coolest air possible. So the front Monsta should be intake, along with the top 240, then have the rear case fan above the mobo rear i/o panel should be exhaust.


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Found the FS Thread, but the build log is gone. The first line is priceless lol. The build is actually not as bad as I remember it. It also seems he didn't delete is account, but isn't very active anymore
> Aside from res before pump, loop order has very little impact on core temps. Just route the tube is the neatest configuration.
> 
> As far as radiator fan orientation, general consensus is to have all radiators as intake to guarantee they get the coolest air possible. So the front Monsta should be intake, along with the top 240, then have the rear case fan above the mobo rear i/o panel should be exhaust.


that was my exact original plan, and then i went and confused it all by asking a question hahaha thanks


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Found the FS Thread, but the build log is gone. The first line is priceless lol. The build is actually not as bad as I remember it. It also seems he didn't delete is account, but isn't very active anymore
> Aside from res before pump, loop order has very little impact on core temps. Just route the tube is the neatest configuration.
> 
> As far as radiator fan orientation, general consensus is to have all radiators as intake to guarantee they get the coolest air possible. So the front Monsta should be intake, along with the top 240, then have the rear case fan above the mobo rear i/o panel should be exhaust.


oh god lol

"pc building is no longer a challenge for me"

only thing challenged was him lol.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

i'll take constructive anyway on my build, i don't care for the wow factor more than giving someone and idea base on my builds. people really need to get so offensive so quickly. anyhow i still love the OCN family!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Some members' inability to take criticism is quite sad. Regardless, I think most of the criticism is pointed at MOTM guidelines and rules and their lack of clarity. I think *last months winner was way worse* and exemplifies this much better.


You talkin' 'bout me? http://smiliesftw.com/


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> oh god lol
> 
> "pc building is no longer a challenge for me"
> 
> only thing challenged was him lol.


i did have to flick though his thread as the convo took up 2 pages on this thread... that part did make me laugh haha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You talkin' 'bout me? http://smiliesftw.com/


Uh oh.

The Cautious One...

I knew someone was going to say something like this...


----------



## jamaican voodoo

here guys laugh at this, trust i won't get offended lol it can break the tension in this thread lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here guys laugh at this, trust i won't get offended lol it can break the tension in this thread lol


wow nice what kind of vacuum is that?


----------



## morencyam

I didn't know the iRad has be released yet.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

haha yea it totally vacuum it helps my AC filters dust very well


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You talkin' 'bout me? http://smiliesftw.com/


Ugh, looked again and I was wrong. I meant december '14. Forgive me


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I didn't know the iRad has be released yet.


this crack me up good lol like it, iRAD good one


----------



## jamaican voodoo

anyways i appreciate all of you guys, let keeps it real move on better thing, Jamaican people love to say no problem mon. lets not make one.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> anyways i appreciate all of you guys, let keeps it real move on better thing, Jamaican people love to say no problem mon. lets not make one.


Speaking of Jamaica, I just had a few Red Stripes last night. Been a long time since I drank that and forgot how good it was since I mainly stick to craft brews for the most part.

BTW, why did you change out the yellow coolant. I really liked that.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Letting everyone know that in a Caselabs SMA8 you have enough room for a drain valve on the One Inlet/Outlet of the XTX 480Ek rad for a drain in the rear of the Case (Next to the PSU mount)

The Cautious One


----------



## jamaican voodoo

i like red stripe beer but i haven't had one in years lol i still plenty of yellow coolant tent to change the color every so often, also keep in mind i make my own coolant as well lol with off the shelf stuff. I need to make a thread about so you'll can see whats it all about.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i like red stripe beer but i haven't had one in years lol i still plenty of yellow coolant tent to change the color every so often, also keep in mind *i make my own coolant as well lol with off the shelf stuff. I need to make a thread about so you'll can see whats it all about.*


That would be interesting to see


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here guys laugh at this, trust i won't get offended lol it can break the tension in this thread lol


I like iRad







but red fittings dont fit your build also maybe do something about gpu cables







nice build but has room for improvement


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> i like red stripe beer but i haven't had one in years lol i still plenty of yellow coolant tent to change the color every so often, also keep in mind i make my own coolant as well lol with off the shelf stuff. I need to make a thread about so you'll *Yall* can see whats it all about.


Let me fix that for you










Louisiana Down here

The Cautious One


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You talkin' 'bout me? http://smiliesftw.com/


Na man I doubt it, there was alot of custom panels modding on your build. Not to mention how good it loked.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Na man I doubt it, there was alot of custom panels modding on your build. Not to mention how good it loked.


Yeah it was my mistake. Mentioned the wrong month


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Darlene's insightful comments pages back were spot on. Are you a psychologist too?







Yeah I too think that the real problem is in the contest/rules. Perhaps expanded categories are in order.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> here guys laugh at this, trust i won't get offended lol it can break the tension in this thread lol


Is that a stolen Kia radiator? No, wait, parts from the canceled iCar project! I hear they went with a watch.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

2000$ nanosaur player, totally 100% worth it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Some members' inability to take criticism is quite sad. Regardless, *I think most of the criticism is pointed at MOTM guidelines and rules and their lack of clarity.* I think last months winner was way worse and exemplifies this much better.


Exactly this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> *I personally love contructive criticism especially from peers* who can put out builds that I strive to be on par with, so any help/ criticisms are always appreciated since I know there is something I'll be blind to in a build after looking at the same components for so long. Hopefully I'll get some work done in the remainder of this week to be worthy of such criticism (originally a Graphics Design major so it comes w/ the territory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


And some of this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i prefer criticism instead of people just blindly saying what they think you want to hear.


All of this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It certainly takes me a while,there are lots of co-dependant models to make sure everything fits. Panels take no time at all but the likes of the tray for Lumo take time. Math modelling is much better than mesh modelling for me.
> 
> 
> 
> you dont make it 3D in skp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you use 2D vector drawings.or you can make a 3d model if needed & then just take the 2d outlines you need. when people make the toolpaths they set the stock/depths of cut etc
> 
> solidworks works in 2 different ways as you know. when in solid mode its essentially just giving you a 3D view when you are generating depths/heights or toolpaths in solidcam.
> 
> modelling in solidworks is labour intensive imo. for the amount of time you spend measuring & plotting out stuff. it takes a few mins in skp & then you can take what you need into solidworks & jump straight to solidcam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its a much faster method trust me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know you have your methods but honestly that res tray, which is awesome by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would take less than a quarter of the time to do it by my method. if you understand what i mean you would be like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think though in your case you would struggle to grasp the concept as it sounds like you dont do the gcode or solidcam part?
Click to expand...

I dont need to do the gcode,I use other peoples machines for now,I dont need to worry about pathing.
I do the model,export 2d drawings in DXF and post on. Mill is Q4 this year/Q1 next year.


----------



## bundymania

Thermaltake Water 3.0 and other parts for TT show builds.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thermaltake......

Lol!


----------



## morencyam

Even Bundy's avatar thinks this is a joke lol


----------



## szeged

thermaltake -


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Exactly. My favorite comment in that whole thread(can't remember who it was) was something along the lines of:
> 
> OP: MY BUILD IS EPIC! TELL ME HOW AMAZING I AM!
> user: The only thing epic about this build is the amount if work that still needs to be done on it
> 
> I thin that one pushed him over the edge. I thin he may have even deleted his account. Said he was getting no respect and didn't deserve to be treated this way.
> 
> 
> 
> hahaha yeah i remember that, man he was a bottle of rage ready to explode, personally im glad hes gone, we dont need people like that floating around here.
Click to expand...

Didnt he pimp mining too? Had a 'AMD paid for this Corvette' as an avatar?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Didnt he pimp mining too? Had a 'AMD paid for this Corvette' as an avatar?


Yup, still does too. 95% of all his posts in the last year have been in one of the mining club threads. Well, maybe not 95%, but the majority of them


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Didnt he pimp mining too? Had a 'AMD paid for this Corvette' as an avatar?
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, still does too. 95% of all his posts in the last year have been in one of the mining club threads. Well, maybe not 95%, but the majority of them
Click to expand...

I remember him well!

Only Slinky tops him I think.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I remember him well!
> 
> Only Slinky tops him I think.


good lord put both of them in the same room as each other and see who goes full reta......well you know....first.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I remember him well!
> 
> Only Slinky tops him I think.
> 
> 
> 
> good lord put both of them in the same room as each other and see who goes full reta......well you know....first.
Click to expand...

Surely an event horizon would spring into being with such superdense materials close together............Im sure there is some quantum equation for spontaneous singularities.......


----------



## electro2u

Mostly nailed the vision I had for my first h2o build (turned into 3 or 4 attempts at the same vision). Starting to think about a smaller footprint machine since my living space got a lot smaller.

Either putting my 295x2 into a mATX board or throwing my 2x980s into a smaller Atx case. Currently using a Corsair 760T with a 280 and a 360mm rad. What should I do?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Surely an event horizon would spring into being with such superdense materials close together............Im sure there is some quantum equation for spontaneous singularities.......


the world isnt ready for this horror yet, we must lock it away where it will never be found until the time is right.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Surely an event horizon would spring into being with such superdense materials close together............Im sure there is some quantum equation for spontaneous singularities.......
> 
> 
> 
> the world isnt ready for this horror yet, we must lock it away where it will never be found until the time is right.
Click to expand...

Weaponise them.

Perfect the delivery system and you are golden. The Russians have rockets for dogs so surely they could build one for those two?


----------



## szeged

let me give my friend tony stark a call, hes pretty good at large scale weaponry with well thought delivery systems.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

This thread the past ~10 pages:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> This thread the past ~10 pages:


Its been one of those days,humour us.

Here,to get back on topic...



The 350d...still baws.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> This thread the past ~10 pages:


FIFY


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> This thread the past ~10 pages:


That's an understatement.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol was slinkypc on this forum at one time?
I am glad I am not the only one who dislikes that person, place, or thing

I mean he builds the most ******ed looking PCs and manages to sell them on ebay for 10k a piece

and then he turns around and tries to compete on hwbot.

or some benchmark. I dunno every time theres a new platform it seems he tries to take one of the top 5 places with sheer funds

I mean sure if I had 10K to drop everytime a new gpu or platform came I could probably blip on the top 5 too. I mean how hard is it to sli 4 of the most expensive cards out there and get a descent score.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lol was slinkypc on this forum at one time?
> I am glad I am not the only one who dislikes that person, place, or thing
> 
> I mean he builds the most ******ed looking PCs and manages to sell them on ebay for 10k a piece
> 
> and then he turns around and tries to compete on hwbot.


Competing @HWBot is a good thing,expecting to sell them with those settings for day to day use is weapons grade stupid.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

see edited post, its less about him competing as it is him just making those scores by havingh 4way sli ofthe most advanced cards available

I mean its pure money benching.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> see edited post, its less about him competing as it is him just making those scores by havingh 4way sli ofthe most advanced cards available
> 
> *I mean its pure money benching.*


like 90% of the benching at hwbot now lol.


----------



## morencyam

Hey I love out little off topic tangents. Well, only when they stay friendly and comical. Makes for a good laugh.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> like 90% of the benching at hwbot now lol.


I agree but it takes a special kind of scumbag to sell pcs on ebay like that imo


----------



## wermad

I followed up with that member at a couple of other sites. Didn't sit well with one of the mods (I'm sure many of you know who it is) and it just got nasty. Yeah, he was also pretty deflated about the criticism to his rig.

I don't mind the criticism as long as you have done it better. If you're just walking w/ big talk and can't back it up, I don't take it kindly....


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, finally it seems like I have the chance to get my project running again. My biggest dilemma is which reservoir and pump combo to go with. Single loop, three-four radiators and two blocks, copper or acrylic tubing.

It will be one of these three options:

2x EK-X3 250 with 2x EK-D5 X-Top Acetal with 2x D5's (I already have the 2x EK-D5 X-Top Acetal and the D5-pumps) - have to modify
2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 with the 204 mm tube (I already have 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 and the D5-pumps) - have to modify
1x Aquacomputer PRO 880 with 1-2x EK-D5 X-Top Acetal with 1-2x D5's (I already have 2x EK-D5 X-Top Acetal and 2x D5-pumps) - do not have to modify (probably)

Which one is the most best looking of the three? The Aquacomputer PRO 880 is 80x300 while the EK-X3 250 is 60x250 (or something).


----------



## charliebrown

I'm pissed off been waiting 3 weeks for my 480 rad from sidewinders still have not received it no responses to email order still shows no tracking do anybody have a phone number to these guys at this point I just want a refund


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> I'm pissed off been waiting 3 weeks for my 480 rad from sidewinders still have not received it no responses to email order still shows no tracking do anybody have a phone number to these guys at this point I just want a refund


I ordered a couple pumps from them about 2 months back and had to email him to get the ball rolling. I think it's a one man operation.

TCO


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lol was slinkypc on this forum at one time?
> I am glad I am not the only one who dislikes that person, place, or thing
> 
> I mean he builds the most ******ed looking PCs and manages to sell them on ebay for 10k a piece
> 
> and then he turns around and tries to compete on hwbot.
> 
> or some benchmark. I dunno every time theres a new platform it seems he tries to take one of the top 5 places with sheer funds
> 
> I mean sure if I had 10K to drop everytime a new gpu or platform came I could probably blip on the top 5 too. I mean how hard is it to sli 4 of the most expensive cards out there and get a descent score.


Oh god..don't even start on slinky up in here again please. Yes he dropped by this thread awhile back and posted pics of those blinding things&#8230;once. Well pics just once, iirc. It wasn't pretty, no pun intended.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> I'm pissed off been waiting 3 weeks for my 480 rad from sidewinders still have not received it no responses to email order still shows no tracking do anybody have a phone number to these guys at this point I just want a refund


Damnit, Gary. Hire someone or something. Like nobody in that small town needs work.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> I'm pissed off been waiting 3 weeks for my 480 rad from sidewinders still have not received it no responses to email order still shows no tracking do anybody have a phone number to these guys at this point I just want a refund


Did you even bother looking on their website? It's right on the front page. And yes, Sidewinder is a one man team. Though, Gary does get a little help from his wife.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lol was slinkypc on this forum at one time?
> I am glad I am not the only one who dislikes that person, place, or thing
> 
> I mean he builds the most ******ed looking PCs and manages to sell them on ebay for 10k a piece
> 
> and then he turns around and tries to compete on hwbot.
> 
> or some benchmark. I dunno every time theres a new platform it seems he tries to take one of the top 5 places with sheer funds
> 
> I mean sure if I had 10K to drop everytime a new gpu or platform came I could probably blip on the top 5 too. I mean how hard is it to sli 4 of the most expensive cards out there and get a descent score.


I think the fact that this is the same guy that builds those 10k eBay rigs explains a lot
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1vd8iz_human-slinky_fun


----------



## snef

EK-FC970 GTX Strix Nickel
EK-FB ASUS M6I Nickel
EK-RAM Monarch X2 Nickel
EK-D5 Cover Kit Nickel
EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel
EK-AF Angled 2×45° Nickel
all plated gold

do you like "GOLD"?


----------



## wermad

Awesome! real gold plating or brass?


----------



## snef

thanks
real gold


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome! real gold plating or brass?


snef mined the gold himself then smelted it and poured it over the components himself.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> EK-FC970 GTX Strix Nickel
> EK-FB ASUS M6I Nickel
> EK-RAM Monarch X2 Nickel
> EK-D5 Cover Kit Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 2×45° Nickel
> all plated gold
> 
> do you like "GOLD"?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I always loved your builds Snef.. but that's extra shiny Bling my eyes can't handle...







.... Why you turning into Smaug


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> thanks
> real gold


How much did it run you?

Definately interesting looks wise.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Did you even bother looking on their website? It's right on the front page. And yes, Sidewinder is a one man team. Though, Gary does get a little help from his wife.
> 
> I think the fact that this is the same guy that builds those 10k eBay rigs explains a lot
> http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1vd8iz_human-slinky_fun


I see, so basically he does lots of ecstasy and stares at his computers for hours

D: GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLD

https://youtu.be/sr0gNJ090JA

lol I wanted a gold block so freaking bad, but just a gold cpu block would make no sense.

Do you have any idea how much it would run to plate a solid block? I have a copper supremacy laying around


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> EK-FC970 GTX Strix Nickel
> EK-FB ASUS M6I Nickel
> EK-RAM Monarch X2 Nickel
> EK-D5 Cover Kit Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel
> EK-AF Angled 2×45° Nickel
> all plated gold
> 
> do you like "GOLD"?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Needs more AK47.


----------



## emsj86

Gold rush 2.0


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Needs more AK47.


MSI didnt have a big bang 3 this time around xD

that would have been fun


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Did you even bother looking on their website? It's right on the front page. And yes, Sidewinder is a one man team. Though, Gary does get a little help from his wife.
> 
> I sure did nobody ever answers that's why I was asking here to see if somebody was in the same situation as me who has a number that people answer
> I know its a one man show but 3 weeks and no order is not right


----------



## morencyam

I thought I remembered Gary saying that he won't be answering phone calls anymore and best way to get in touch is email


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I thought I remembered Gary saying that he won't be answering phone calls anymore and best way to get in touch is email


Exactly. I used to try and call the number. That was a no go so went by email, then BOOM we were in process.

TCO


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> I like iRad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but red fittings dont fit your build also maybe do something about gpu cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice build but has room for improvement


I like iRad too







i agree red fittings will go next up date, the cable i really need work on that. i will figure that out at a later date, thank for tips









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Let me fix that for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Louisiana Down here
> 
> The Cautious One


Thanks man my typing skill aint the best, i appreciate the correction








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Darlene's insightful comments pages back were spot on. Are you a psychologist too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I too think that the real problem is in the contest/rules. Perhaps expanded categories are in order.
> Is that a stolen Kia radiator? No, wait, parts from the canceled iCar project! I hear they went with a watch.


Its the kia rad with the icar project patented Finns lol it amazing!!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> snef mined the gold himself then smelted it and poured it over the components himself.


Ok fine I guess that's impressive&#8230;provided it was mined on the moon.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok fine I guess that's impressive&#8230;provided it was mined on the moon.


earth gold is so overrated. It's all about that moon gold


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> FIFY


Lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Needs more AK47.


----------



## sinnedone

lol


----------



## wermad

Wood and gold theme build







with a little steam-punk in the mix....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Lol wermad.

Folks two questions; anyone known the fpi and have info on restriction/flow rate on these rads:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1221

Second question. Would it be possible to drill the back tank and tap it to g 1/4 in order to have a drain port there. I really want a slim rad with 3 ports (one for drain) but I can't find any.I guess the other option would be a crossflow rad with a T for the drain but usually they have a larger footprint that a regular slim in terms of length...


----------



## wermad

-I'm guessing here, but they resemble the magicool units. I didn't find any info on their site.

-Usually, the housing is thin. You may wanna solder on a port or use some strong (non reactive) adhesive to make a port.
Honestly, a small hole to bleed works just fine. You may be able to get away by doing a small tapped hole there (might have to punch in the hole a bit to create more depth for the threads).


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Lol wermad.
> 
> Folks two questions; anyone known the fpi and have info on restriction/flow rate on these rads:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1221
> 
> Second question. Would it be possible to drill the back tank and tap it to g 1/4in order to have a drain port there. I really want a slim rad with 3 ports (one for drain) but I can't find any.I guess the other option would be a crossflow rad with a T for the drain but usually they have a larger footprint that a regular slim in terms of length...


I actually was going to do this with my 30mm 280 rad on top to make a air bleed hole. If you have the tools all you have to do is get a brass g/14 fitting (maybe simply strip the nickel off one) drill a hole where you want it taking special care to not get to many shavings in the rad, then weld/braze the fitting. I didnt have enough room where I wanted it so I never did it.

*EDIT*
Like this

*EDIT*


----------



## emsj86

Do most multi port rads come with caps for the extra ports. I was looking. At xspc rx and the pictures have them but doesn't say. And is 75 degrees a normal temp in intel burn test for a i7 4790k 4.8 at 1.29v with 360 and 240 rad and gtx 780 oc. Fans at 1200rpms. I know there our other factors but round about is that normal


----------



## wermad

Seems good if its not delided. Intel didn't really "fix" the heat issue with DC. Mine sits under 70 at stock. I'm going to pull it and do the vise-hammer delid. Just looking for my damn IceDiamond7







.....


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do most multi port rads come with caps for the extra ports. I was looking. At xspc rx and the pictures have them but doesn't say. And is 75 degrees a normal temp in intel burn test for a i7 4790k 4.8 at 1.29v with 360 and 240 rad and gtx 780 oc. Fans at 1200rpms. I know there our other factors but round about is that normal


Most multiport rads usually come with plastic caps for the extra ports, but after looking at some rx reviews it looks like is comes with 2 of xspc's black chrome plugs.
edit: after looking at some more reviews, some show plastic plugs also so I'm not sure what you'll get. All I know is that it comes with plugs.


----------



## Alex132

Why doesn't Intel just not include an IHS anymore? We've had it for most GPUs for a long time now...

If they're worried about too much stressful load, well put a bracket around it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

eww hottest my 4790k @ 4.7 gets is mid 60's if that


----------



## szeged

my 4790k doesnt get anywhere near 60c+ at 5.5+



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







ok im cheating.


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol yeah you're cheating I'm only using water


----------



## wermad

My first haswell wasn't bad, sitting under 80c at 4.9. Once the goo was swapped, it drooped under 70°. I remember some guys loading 80-90° at stock (







).

Found my id7


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> -I'm guessing here, but they resemble the magicool units. I didn't find any info on their site.
> 
> -Usually, the housing is thin. You may wanna solder on a port or use some strong (non reactive) adhesive to make a port.
> Honestly, a small hole to bleed works just fine. You may be able to get away by doing a small tapped hole there (might have to punch in the hole a bit to create more depth for the threads).


Thks wer. Those are old rads as far as I understood. But they are really low profile (only 276 mm in length) and been old does not mean bad at all as the xspc rx v2 proved recently in fast fate review. I wonder what is the fpi of those they are selling at a very good price.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I actually was going to do this with my 30mm 280 rad on top to make a air bleed hole. If you have the tools all you have to do is get a brass g/14 fitting (maybe simply strip the nickel off one) drill a hole where you want it taking special care to not get to many shavings in the rad, then weld/braze the fitting. I didnt have enough room where I wanted it so I never did it.
> 
> *EDIT*
> Like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*


Thks mate. will give more thought on this. +rep to you and wer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do most multi port rads come with caps for the extra ports. I was looking. At xspc rx and the pictures have them but doesn't say. And is 75 degrees a normal temp in intel burn test for a i7 4790k 4.8 at 1.29v with 360 and 240 rad and gtx 780 oc. Fans at 1200rpms. I know there our other factors but round about is that normal


the rx rads comes with two caps for the two extra ports. OCool rads also comes with extra caps for the unused ports. Besides, they all come with plastic caps too.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My first haswell wasn't bad, sitting under 80c at 4.9. Once the goo was swapped, it drooped under 70°. I remember some guys loading 80-90° at stock (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Found my id7


I still have and use mine regularly. Only on the CPU though. I used shin-etsu on the GPUs. I know some complain about scratches or pitting on their waterblock or CPU, but I haven't experienced either of those and have reapplied at least half a dozen times with the same CPU and waterblock. Only did twice with the old i7 950, but didn't have any issues with that either. I'd never use it on a bare die though. Not worth the risk


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> Thanks man my typing skill aint the best, i appreciate the correction


Good that someone else around here knows the lingo eh?

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far my main go to TiM is ShinEtsu, so far has been the best I've used other than the pk-1 on the 4790k that came with the aquacomputers kryos delrin block


----------



## wermad

I have some mx3 I'll drop in on top. Vise went pretty good. Almost done cleaning and then moment of truth.....

edit: booted up fine and I'm a good 10-12°C lower then stock!!!!! I already had the ICD7 (and MX3) so it was no expense spared


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I have some mx3 I'll drop in on top. Vise went pretty good. Almost done cleaning and then moment of truth.....
> 
> edit: booted up fine and I'm a good 10-12°C lower then stock!!!!! I already had the ICD7 (and MX3) so it was no expense spared


Props. I'm too scared to do it to my 4770k.


----------



## wermad

Its very easy w/ the vise+hammer method. Just make sure you use a strong piece of wood/block and get perpendicular to the grain. It takes a few good blows but check after each one to see if its loose.

First time I I placed the cpu in the vise w/ the wings outside. This time, I reviewed an italian vid and saw they put the flaps on the vise (flaps are perpendicular to the die). Didn't work and i nicked the flaps a bit (no harm tbh). Went back to my first method I did last year, and it worked after the second blow.

If you don't go w/ silicone to secure the ihs, it takes a little fiddling to get the ihs in place but its not too complicated. If you're temps are really high, definitely a must imho.

edit: final work tonight is to add my trusty Mix2 controller. 5v is fine but I don't mind 12v of aircraft lifting blast while I'm benching. I have space to mount it now that the fan hub is out of the way.


----------



## KuuFA

The link in my sig is a short guide on how to do it its not hard its amazingly fast and well just 2 straight hits and its loose.

I have done it about 4-5 times for friends and myself (2 for myself) works everytime.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yay got my Adobe CC back


----------



## guitarhero23

Last picture is sweet, blue pops nicely. Im glad my company has an adobe cc license i have access to.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do most multi port rads come with caps for the extra ports. I was looking. At xspc rx and the pictures have them but doesn't say. And is 75 degrees a normal temp in intel burn test for a i7 4790k 4.8 at 1.29v with 360 and 240 rad and gtx 780 oc. Fans at 1200rpms. I know there our other factors but round about is that normal


They will always come with enough stop plugs for all the ports minus two because they will be occupied with fittings of course.

The XSPC EX multiports must be the exception to that rule.


----------



## DarthBaggins

speaking of stop plugs, looks like I need to find some for my Aqualis Pro res, yay spend moar lol. Still say by now I should be allowed at least a 5-7% discount at MicroCenter with as much time as I spend shopping there (can't complain about PPC's as I use the heck out of the OCN discount lol)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Waterblock Soon.

The Cautious One


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblock Soon.
> 
> The Cautious One


I'm hoping to have a pic like this relatively soon as well

BTW, whatcha get!? I'll take a guess at a GTX980


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm hoping to have a pic like this relatively soon as well
> 
> BTW, whatcha get!? I'll take a guess at a GTX980


I'll further that guess and say an EVGA GTX 980 SC!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm hoping to have a pic like this relatively soon as well
> 
> BTW, whatcha get!? I'll take a guess at a GTX980


Correct on the 980!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'll further that guess and say an EVGA GTX 980 SC!


WINNER!!!!! Haha. I am thinking of slapping the waterblock I have on it already but I haven't install drivers or anything yet









Plus I need some sunlight for some really good pics.

THe Cautious One.

(And another paycheck for the second one I need for the build)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblock Soon.
> 
> The Cautious One


Now which waterblock


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Now which waterblock


These.












The Cautious One


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not too shabby, still personally prefer the looks of the BitsPower blocks. But those EK's look snazzy


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Not too shabby, still personally prefer the looks of the BitsPower blocks. But those EK's look snazzy


If Ek was a woman, My Girlfriend would have left me by Now









TCO


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If Ek was a woman, My Girlfriend would have left me by Now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Your girlfriend loves EK? Mine too!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Your girlfriend loves EK? Mine too!










Not sure we are on the same page here









TCO


----------



## jamaican voodoo

haha







i dont he on the same page at all lol


----------



## mus1mus

You are both on the page I am looking at!


----------



## Recr3ational

Guys, i bought an EK GPU waterblock for £10 and it was missing the screws. Can you guys link me to the correct M3x4 (i think) screws?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Go on the ek club thread.
If you have too much trouble let me know, i have a spare set.
Just tell me how many of what you need


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Go on the ek club thread.
> If you have too much trouble let me know, i have a spare set.
> Just tell me how many of what you need


Thank you, I'll try and see if i can get answers


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure we are on the same page here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i dont he on the same page at all lol


Same page, just thought I'd throw the curve, lol. I kid, I kid...


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys, i bought an EK GPU waterblock for £10 and it was missing the screws. Can you guys link me to the correct M3x4 (i think) screws?


just sent you a private message but I think I can answer here

if can buy from US

http://www.fastener-express.com/m3-x-5-x-4mm-pan-phil-machine-screws-stainless-qty-50.aspx


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Your girlfriend loves EK? Mine too!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If Ek was a woman, My Girlfriend would have left me by Now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure we are on the same page here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


My fiance loves my aquacomputer components lol
And she's glad it's not another woman


----------



## Ceadderman

Gone a day an BOOM! thread blows up









~Ceadder


----------



## jamaican voodoo

haha i get good chuckle at work when i login to see the thread take detour and thats fine by so longs as it funny


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Thank you, I'll try and see if i can get answers


Doesn't ek sell replacement hardware kits? I have a ton of ek stuff from back in 2011 when the rma'ing of nickel went down.

Well, you can always download the instructions and you'll have all the hardware that's required listed there. Then just buying where's its readily available


----------



## LandonAaron

If using two pumps in series, is it okay to put the second pump above the reservoir in loop? I currently have an XSPC X20 dual bay res/pump, and I am adding a MCP50X to the loop. I read that if the second pump is much more powerful than the first than it can cause cavitation issues sucking air down into the first pump, and in that scenario it may be a good idea to move the second pump further down the loop. What I am considering doing is putting the MCP50x right after the first radiator, and mounting it upside down to the ceiling of the 5.25" bay so that the hose can come out the top of the radiator straight into the intake of the pump. I would do the loop like this:

Pump/Res > 240mm Radiator > 2nd Pump > CPU Block > 420mm radiator > 2 X GPU blocks > Pump/Res.



But arranged like this the MCP50X would be mounted upside down, and it would be even with the top of the Reservoir (two things I'm unsure about).

The other option is to have dual bay res/pump pump directly into the second pump, and just hope cavitation isn't an issue:


----------



## pc-illiterate

i would never mount a pump upside down. as soon as it loses feed for any reason, its going to be useless really quick.


----------



## emsj86

Unless it's something that you really want. Just run the mcp50x. It will do the job no problem. You won't see real gains in running both outside of security


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> If using two pumps in series, is it okay to put the second pump above the reservoir in loop? I currently have an XSPC X20 dual bay res/pump, and I am adding a MCP50X to the loop. I read that if the second pump is much more powerful than the first than it can cause cavitation issues sucking air down into the first pump, and in that scenario it may be a good idea to move the second pump further down the loop. What I am considering doing is putting the MCP50x right after the first radiator, and mounting it upside down to the ceiling of the 5.25" bay so that the hose can come out the top of the radiator straight into the intake of the pump. I would do the loop like this:
> 
> Pump/Res > 240mm Radiator > 2nd Pump > CPU Block > 420mm radiator > 2 X GPU blocks > Pump/Res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But arranged like this the MCP50X would be mounted upside down, and it would be even with the top of the Reservoir (two things I'm unsure about).
> 
> The other option is to have dual bay res/pump pump directly into the second pump, and just hope cavitation isn't an issue:


mounting the pump upside down is a no go for most pumps and I suppose for the mcp50x too. you can mount sideways or with the inlet facing up but not down.


----------



## Alex132

Why have 2 pumps in that loop anyway? Just go with 1 and be done with those problems


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Redundancy ("security"), as others have said. One dies and the loop keeps flowing.


----------



## wermad

Redundancy is the main explanation given. Crucial for those who run their rigs continuously with little human monitoring.

I know if my pump dies, cpu thermal limit shuts down my rig. Though I seldom leave my rig alone.


----------



## Ceadderman

I run 2 DDC in my loop. Redundancy of course. But if you're running more than one Rad and have quite a few restrictions(i.e. 90 degree bends/fittings), I would recommend 2 pumps for JiCases. Couldn't hurt to have another even if one will do the job just fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'll be setting a safeguard for when the pump reads zero the system should shut down


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol dont tell everyone but I forget to turn on my pump sometimes(independent 18v psu), it never gets too hot if its not ocd, I have pwm setup so I hear my fans going 60% when I dont have any OC and am on the forum or something and its like, whoops!


----------



## wermad

With my rads about 10mm from my main components, and if it's at little to no load, it should have some passive cooling if the pump dies.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lol dont tell everyone but I forget to turn on my pump sometimes(independent 18v psu), it never gets too hot if its not ocd, I have pwm setup so I hear my fans going 60% when I dont have any OC and am on the forum or something and its like, whoops!


Yes I did this occasionally too when I had a temp loop on a sep power supply. But I usually only noticed when my GPU crashed during gaming doh.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well I have an oldschool variable PSU so it has 2 switches. one for psu to turn on and one for it to put out power and I have to wait 30secondds for it to warm up so I forget.

and its is variable so 18v is its max and my pump's max is 24v so I cant really keep it on 24/7 cuz its old like i could with the 12v on my spare evga
I'm in the proces of building something like an aquero 6 with ardunios it will have a few flow meters and posibly 24v controll for a few channels. Its also going to be a 4channel DMM
and glorious touchpanel tft displays, IDEALLY! I can get the hardware but programming may become an issue

AP-30s at 60% isnt a bad alarm though xD


----------



## emsj86

I understand the security to some point. But even when my one pp went up in flames literally. Most new motherboard shut the pc down and that's exactly what it did.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I understand the security to some point. But even when my one pp went up in flames literally. *Most new motherboard shut the pc down and that's exactly what it did.*


Not helpful in a work machine,losing work makes me mad.

2 pumps mean low RPM for good results,works well with older DDC pumps like Ceadders 10w's


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I understand the security to some point. But even when my one pp went up in flames literally. *Most new motherboard shut the pc down and that's exactly what it did.*
> 
> 
> 
> Not helpful in a work machine,losing work makes me mad.
> 
> 2 pumps mean low RPM for good results,works well with older DDC pumps like Ceadders 10w's
Click to expand...

That it does that it does.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Yea I hear ya b neg. I was coming more from a gamer. If it was my work id would be made. That's why I caring two touches and vacuum pos at work because I can't work without them. (Steam fitter)


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Unless it's something that you really want. Just run the mcp50x. It will do the job no problem. You won't see real gains in running both outside of security


If I just run the MCP50X what should I connect its inlet to on the XSPC X20 Dual Bay Res, the regular outlet or the drain port? The regular outlet on X20 is at the top of the res, and the drain port is at the bottom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why have 2 pumps in that loop anyway? Just go with 1 and be done with those problems


Well I already have the X20 pump/res, and I need it as a reservoir either way. I figure I might as well turn it on, since its going to be in my computer anyway. Also I am a little worried about the positioning of the MCP50X as it is more beside the res than below it. I figure having the X20 running will help ensure the MCP50X is getting a steady stream of water.


----------



## Malik




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yea I hear ya b neg. I was coming more from a gamer. If it was my work id would be made. That's why I caring two touches and vacuum pos at work because I can't work without them. (Steam fitter)


Same here, my rig is purely gaming. i have no other function then this, casual browsing, and the kiddies doing online homework. As noble and ludicrous other uses out there are, i have no real need to delve into them.

Enough benching on the cpu. Time to oc and then launch Titan Fall, been waiting a long time for this one. 4k Titan fall soon









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


pump went out on this one (j/k





















)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/CENTER
> 
> 
> ]


missing the coffee cup Malik http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0379217/









looks nice


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> missing the coffee cup Malik http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0379217/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks nice


Great Movie

TCO


----------



## wermad

has there been a movie that had a custom wc pc before in it??? Just popped into my head of all of a sudden with this curiosity. Are we that niche then...?


----------



## LandonAaron

Anyone know where I might find a flexible funnel, or a funnel with hose locally? Already tried lowes, home depot, and some auto parts places. Don't want to have to put this off till next weekend just cause I don't have a funnel. Regular funnel wont work, as I going to fill the bay res in place, so I don't have to leave extra slack in the line. Going to access the top by removing the optical drive above it, which is enough room to get a small hose or straw in there but not a regular funnel.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

kitchen funnel plus water tubing hose? thats what i use


----------



## mercs213

My hands ache.... not even done =(.. it is a tight fit for everything!!...



Side shot:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Anyone know where I might find a flexible funnel, or a funnel with hose locally? Already tried lowes, home depot, and some auto parts places. Don't want to have to put this off till next weekend just cause I don't have a funnel. Regular funnel wont work, as I going to fill the bay res in place, so I don't have to leave extra slack in the line. Going to access the top by removing the optical drive above it, which is enough room to get a small hose or straw in there but not a regular funnel.


use a fitting on the port and a piece of your tubing. Then any funnel can be used and you avoid spilling water all over your pc since the funnel will be a meter away if you want with the tubing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> use a fitting on the port and a piece of your tubing. Then any funnel can be used and you avoid spilling water all over your pc since the funnel will be a meter away if you want with the tubing.


Yeah, that's my method. It works pretty well.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> use a fitting on the port and a piece of your tubing. Then any funnel can be used and you avoid spilling water all over your pc since the funnel will be a meter away if you want with the tubing.


I was thinking of trying that but all the clearance I have is one 5.25" bay. I don't think there is enough room for a straight fitting plus hose. Maybe I can get a right angle rotary fitting in there. Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

thats what i do too. lol great minds


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I was thinking of trying that but all the clearance I have is one 5.25" bay. I don't think there is enough room for a straight fitting plus hose. Maybe I can get a right angle rotary fitting in there. Thanks for the suggestion.


yep, with ~30 mm you can fit a 90 degrees + barb or any fitting. Alternatively you might want to get something like this:

http://www.plastictesttubes.co.uk/500ml-flexible-plastic-fillwash-bottle-73-p.asp


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> has there been a movie that had a custom wc pc before in it??? Just popped into my head of all of a sudden with this curiosity. Are we that niche then...?


No there isn't (Not to my Knowledge)

And Yes. Yes We Are.

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice twist on the red black theme.







Build log?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> has there been a movie that had a custom wc pc before in it??? Just popped into my head of all of a sudden with this curiosity. Are we that niche then...?


In one of the Die Hard movies there was a huge server room that was watercooled.(or at least I think it was)


----------



## wermad

The Nakatomi building...awesome stuff went on there. Just those shoes









Well, not happy w/ oc temps. I'm @ 4.5 and I'm under 80°C. Thought it was the ic7 and the mx3; applied new ic7 and went with ceramique. Its worse now. Ic diamond has a cure time of 2 hours so I'm hoping things will improve by tonight, if not, going to reapply it and going back to mx3. Temps at stock were decent after the delid. Not as smooth as my first haswell (1.0).


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The Nakatomi building...awesome stuff went on there. Just those shoes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, not happy w/ oc temps. I'm @ 4.5 and I'm under 80°C. Thought it was the ic7 and the mx3; applied new ic7 and went with ceramique. Its worse now. Ic diamond has a cure time of 2 hours so I'm hoping things will improve by tonight, if not, going to reapply it and going back to mx3. Temps at stock were decent after the delid. Not as smooth as my first haswell (1.0).


You could try CLU. Seems to do the job for most people.


----------



## wermad

Nah, too much risk and hassle imho. I refuse to use CL. Don't know why this is not working as well as my first go at delid. Gonna try again tonight. Gonna check my loop as well.

Anyone have some break-in suggestions????


----------



## LandonAaron

Does anyone know where to get matte black rubber hose?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Does anyone know where to get matte black rubber hose?


EK has their ZMT tubing, which is EPDM norprene I believe . Should be available at most online stores, or EK's webstore is another option


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> EK has their ZMT tubing, which is norprene I believe. Should be available at most online stores, or EK's webstore is another option


EK zmt is made of EPDM rubber. good tubing.

@wermad what cpu block are you using? Check orientation of the in and out as well as if the fins inside are aligned properly?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice twist on the red black theme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> has there been a movie that had a custom wc pc before in it??? Just popped into my head of all of a sudden with this curiosity. Are we that niche then...?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In one of the Die Hard movies there was a huge server room that was watercooled.(or at least I think it was)
Click to expand...

That was Die Hard with a Vengeance I believe. Tbf it was a Government Server after all.









Pop Quiz: Who was also a hacker in it and lived in his mommies basement and what was his Screenname. Extra points if you know the Star Wars comparative.









Agent47 played a megalomaniac Hacker in that.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

That was live free or die hard


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That was live free or die hard


You are right, but there is no doubting that With a Vengeance was the best one.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol still the first is my number 1 then 3,4,5,&2


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol still the first is my number 1 then 3,4,5,&2


1 is my second favorite for sure. We need to see a John McClane themed water cooling rig.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That was live free or die hard


yup, my bad you sir are correct.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @wermad what cpu block are you using? Check orientation of the in and out as well as if the fins inside are aligned properly?


koolance 380i. Its in the right orientation. I fiddled w/ the mounting posts and there's some improvement. What's unusual is that it starts to load in the low 50s (running 100%) and then after 10 mins hits 80. Redid the mx3 and the posts, screwed it down as far I felt it was safe and temps are better. Now in the sixties, but after 30 minutes of prime it shoots back to the seventies. I think maybe my oc is causing some issue and its spiking. I'll fiddle around with it a bit more. This is a decent chip, won't go beyond 4.6 without more tweaking and voltage. Kinda regretting not going back to x79.

edit: I'm doing 15 minutes of prime and then 15 minutes of cool down to see if I can break in the icd7


----------



## DarthBaggins

What's your vcore?


----------



## wermad

I'm good, loading in the low sixties @ 4.6. Seems like GB boards tend to kick up the uncore multiplier. I set it low and its holding. Passed a half hour of prime and 3d fs ultra.

edit: currently @ 1.35v and vring voltage @ 1.300. Pretty average for haswell. Not like the first chip I had (4.9 w/ 1.35v).


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Having yet another problem









Refilled my loop from the top, pumps maxed but still have heaps of air in the top rad... work that one out my watercooling hates me


----------



## wermad

go 007 on it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Having yet another problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Refilled my loop from the top, pumps maxed but still have heaps of air in the top rad... work that one out my watercooling hates me


Time to tilt that case in the direction that the fittings are at the lowest. i.e. Foward or Backward depending on which direction makes them the lowest I think.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Time to tilt that case in the direction that the fittings are at the lowest. i.e. Foward or Backward depending on which direction makes them the lowest I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Tried that, even tried with the top plugs off, still didnt help









I'll try it again now and see what happens

Edit, tried again and it sounds like its full now but I doubt it. Took a plug off the top rad and it was full, almost over flowed when I turned the pump on, did the same with the front rad with the same result but it only took half a cm of water from the res and it sounded like it needed way more than that

I dont understand why its being such a pita this time when all I did was change a tube so I could actually get my damn PSU in


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm good, loading in the low sixties @ 4.6. Seems like GB boards tend to kick up the uncore multiplier. I set it low and its holding. Passed a half hour of prime and 3d fs ultra.
> 
> edit: currently @ 1.35v and vring voltage @ 1.300. Pretty average for haswell. Not like the first chip I had (4.9 w/ 1.35v).


Yeah you have to set strict static settings on GB mobos, I know I set a large portion of my vcore, vring, almost forgot to turn off the cpu's internal gpu(have to go into classic bios to do that vs the advanced ui). 1.35 still seems high for 4.6 but really isn't bad


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Anyone know where I might find a flexible funnel, or a funnel with hose locally? Already tried lowes, home depot, and some auto parts places. Don't want to have to put this off till next weekend just cause I don't have a funnel. Regular funnel wont work, as I going to fill the bay res in place, so I don't have to leave extra slack in the line. Going to access the top by removing the optical drive above it, which is enough room to get a small hose or straw in there but not a regular funnel.


Owes not Home Depot will have the large syringe. And than buy the small vinyal. That's how I fill and help drain my loop as it can fit into tight slots without moving anything and can push it suck Coolant in or out. Cost about 3 dollars


----------



## DarthBaggins

I use this funnel to fill mine (I was able to stretch a piece of 3/8's hose on the end and a barb fitting so it can thread into a res properly) The ability to cap off the top is extremely helpful as well:



Napa Auto Funnel


----------



## emsj86

Going to be changing my clor scheme it will have black and silver/grey and than im not sure this is what it is now. Should I go blue, purple, white, or a kelly green?


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## szeged

i just shat my _gene's_

huehuehue


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i just shat my _gene's_


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah you have to set strict static settings on GB mobos, I know I set a large portion of my vcore, vring, almost forgot to turn off the cpu's internal gpu(have to go into classic bios to do that vs the advanced ui). 1.35 still seems high for 4.6 but really isn't bad


went back to the DC reviews and they're pretty much not as good as Haswell refresh in terms of average clocks oc. Though 1.0 was hot as heck, DC is cooler. My friend had the same experience; 4.8 easily with a 4770k but can't budge from 4.5 with a 4790K. If the opportunity comes up, I may just switch to x79. clock for clock, DC should still be pretty solid. I ran through the basics of Titanfall and I'm downloading a few more games to push this rig. I'm glad i put my controller back on this rig as I can bump them to annoying jet-engine when benching.


----------



## DarthBaggins

My DC's have been great clockers but I'm leaving this one at 4.6 since it's more than ample for CAD and gaming especially under water (max 55c folding) but really can't wait to play with my x99 under water


----------



## MrGrievous

Is this pump one with the speed control knob or without it, Im a little confused on what the "bare" part means in the title of the product. Is this just the pump by itself?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Is this pump one with the speed control knob or without it, Im a little confused on what the "bare" part means in the title of the product. Is this just the pump by itself?


-B refers to one speed if i remember correctly. and bare means no threads.. just those nipples u have to shove tubs on if you are not going to use a top.


----------



## inedenimadam

I bought a roll of soft tubing, in the middle it was completely creased and what I thought was unusable, then I remembered reading a post about hot water, so I put a pot of water on to boil.

Worked perfect, all creases gone, and hose is as straight as I imagine it was during extrusion.

I dont know who posted it, but +karma since I cant find the post to give rep.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> -B refers to one speed if i remember correctly. and bare means no threads.. just those nipples u have to shove tubs on if you are not going to use a top.


Awe ok that clears things up for me thanks!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I just don't get the whole full cover deal... the idea of having a large piece of acetal covering up a nice looking board doesn't appeal to me.

Nevertheless, nice pictures B-Neg.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

It looks tacky tbh. Mobo blocks got a lot of flak not too long ago. Now these floor tiles are the latest rage. The mono block lollipops aren't that good looking either. Can't imagine the weight. Best and common "excuse", saves on fittings. To each their own as it goes. I do like the impressive photos taken of any gear if I'm honest.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I just don't get the whole full cover deal... the idea of having a large piece of acetal covering up a nice looking board doesn't appeal to me.
> 
> Nevertheless, nice pictures B-Neg.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


I was debating on swapping to a clear top myself, and my fiance liked the red top but I hit order before she mentioned it lol. But again to each their own, that's the beauty of this hobby you have nearly endless options to make what you like and appeals to you









Tidy cats flusher activated, lol


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Not gonna lie, straight up, i want a monoblock because i dont like the pressure the hose exerts on the board with those tight bends.

Problem would be solved by using hardline tubing or plumbing better, but i am not that great a watercooler.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

After almost 5 months of screwing around , problems and all out nightmare I finally powered on my pc to check if my watercooling was working and it is!!!!











































































































Left it on for a few mins monitoring the temps and box CPU & GPU stayed around 30° idle









It isnt all good tho, my Trident X RAM doesn't wanna work so I still cant use it yet and the gaskets I have on the radiators for better air flow are touching 2 of the fans blades but other than that the damn thing finally works


----------



## charliebrown

Lol I love that show I can hear him saying that


----------



## The LAN Man

First run at hard tubing but I think it came out pretty well


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The LAN Man*
> 
> First run at hard tubing but I think it came out pretty well
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that hard and soft in the same view?


----------



## The LAN Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Is that hard and soft in the same view?


I used soft for the drain because I ran out of hard tubing the the soft piece on top was just for filling. forgot to remove it before I took pictures


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Is this pump one with the speed control knob or without it, Im a little confused on what the "bare" part means in the title of the product. Is this just the pump by itself?


A 655-b is single speed which is about speed 4 on a various. Then there's pwm and of course the vario. The bare pumps have no top and you will need to buy a top.


----------



## electro2u

280mm Nemesis GTX with 120mm AP-53s on B-gears fan adapters:

Seems to work/look OK. Wonder if the adapter width will give much shroud benefit?


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Going to be changing my clor scheme it will have black and silver/grey and than im not sure this is what it is now. Should I go blue, purple, white, or a kelly green?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bleh, this thread sucks lol, nobody willing to give advice?









I'll go with Purple if i were you; Grey might be too dull, so stick to black and silver, but have more black components







. I was gonna go with purple dye, but idk how it would look in my own build







. I have too much white components in a black enclosure for purple to blend in. I might just go with clear fluid.

Good Luck!


----------



## marshymellows

is acrylic glas the same as plexi glas? or have i got this all backwords?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> is acrylic glas the same as plexi glas? or have i got this all backwords?


One in the same. Plexiglass is just a brand name for acrylic. Now polycarbonate (or lexan) is different, so be careful not to get those confused with acrylic.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> One in the same. Plexiglass is just a brand name for acrylic. Now polycarbonate (or lexan) is different, so be careful not to get those confused with acrylic.


Thank you very much


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 280mm Nemesis GTX with 120mm AP-53s on B-gears fan adapters:
> 
> Seems to work/look OK. Wonder if the adapter width will give much shroud benefit?


I can't help but wonder if you have the adapter fitted the wrong way around (upside down)....








It looks as if there is a gap on each side of the fans/shroud/adapter, where the fan could draw "fresh" air from, rather than what it should be pulling through the rad.
Just doesn't look right in the pic that was posted


----------



## pc-illiterate

nvm


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 280mm Nemesis GTX with 120mm AP-53s on B-gears fan adapters:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems to work/look OK. Wonder if the adapter width will give much shroud benefit?
> 
> 
> 
> I can't help but wonder if you have the adapter fitted the wrong way around (upside down)....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks as if there is a gap on each side of the fans/shroud/adapter, where the fan could draw "fresh" air from, rather than what it should be pulling through the rad.
> Just doesn't look right in the pic that was posted
Click to expand...

I have several bgears 120mm-to-140mm adapters just like that and it's on correct, It would be impossible to install it the wrong way, or 'upside down' as you say. You can see in his image the screws though the 140mm holes into the rad, and the 120mm fan screws go through the underside of the adapter into the fan. I'm also not seeing the gap you mention. Perhaps you are looking at the tapered part of the adapter?


----------



## wermad

Probably shadow play making the "funnel" part look like an open gap.


----------



## electro2u

Yah, just what Wermad said.
They are strange looking, I sat staring at them for a while trying to figure out if I had got the right thing or not.
They work well but I wish the plastic surrounding the screw holes of the 120mm "funnel" was set wider because you have to have skinny fan screws without a cap.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yah, just what Wermad said.
> They are strange looking, I sat staring at them for a while trying to figure out if I had got the right thing or not.
> They work well but I wish the plastic surrounding the screw holes of the 120mm "funnel" was set wider because you have to have skinny fan screws without a cap.


You could always do what Lowfat did and cut away all but the back part of the fan's casing and mount the fans to the underside of the adapter so that it's recessed into the rad. I don't know how much it might negatively affect airflow but it is a super cool looking mod. I could also see it being really helpful in some instances where space is a concern as the fan will only extend ~20mm or so from the rad mounted like that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I just don't get the whole full cover deal... the idea of having a large piece of acetal covering up a nice looking board doesn't appeal to me.
> 
> Nevertheless, nice pictures B-Neg.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> I was debating on swapping to a clear top myself, and my fiance liked the red top but I hit order before she mentioned it lol. But again to each their own, that's the beauty of this hobby you have nearly endless options to make what you like and appeals to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tidy cats flusher activated, lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I would punch two holes in the top and install fillports in them. Much tidier and you can put two tubes with barbs at the connecting end in order to keep it simple and submerged in the flush.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> After almost 5 months of screwing around , problems and all out nightmare I finally powered on my pc to check if my watercooling was working and it is!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left it on for a few mins monitoring the temps and box CPU & GPU stayed around 30° idle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isnt all good tho, my Trident X RAM doesn't wanna work so I still cant use it yet and the gaskets I have on the radiators for better air flow are touching 2 of the fans blades but other than that the damn thing finally works


You hit the Go! button to get your system up and running? That ASUS board will take about a week or so to identify your RAM but once identified you shouldn't have any issues.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 280mm Nemesis GTX with 120mm AP-53s on B-gears fan adapters:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems to work/look OK. Wonder if the adapter width will give much shroud benefit?


Too bad I will not be going 280 cause that is right smart.









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

My TJ08E X99 WC build is finally "finished"
















Sorry for the crappy pics I was too excited to get good ones


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You hit the Go! button to get your system up and running? That ASUS board will take about a week or so to identify your RAM but once identified you shouldn't have any issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I completely forgot about that, I'll try it and see what happens


----------



## princedanly




----------



## princedanly




----------



## princedanly




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 280mm Nemesis GTX with 120mm AP-53s on B-gears fan adapters:
> 
> Seems to work/look OK. Wonder if the adapter width will give much shroud benefit?


Love the sleeve all the way to the motor!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *princedanly*
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *princedanly*
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *princedanly*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Hello, please use the edit button (pencil symbol, bottom left of your post) to revise/edit your post to add more pics. This will avoid any unnecessary double posting. Thanks!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Too bad I will not be going 280 cause that is right smart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have absolutely no idea where the screws came from that I used to attach the adapter to the radiator. They are like 5mm m4 with a big fat button head. Maybe that's not super rare but it definitely isn't common. I had exactly the right amount... and I'm short 1 fat standard self tapping fan screw. i've probably thrown a dozen of those away and now I need one.

I'll pull the rad out in a few and take a side profile picture. I was actually curious if the top down photo would throw anyone off. It's a cellphone photo with phlash on so it just loses any sense of depth the focus is flat 2d or something.


----------



## princedanly

@wermad

im so sorry sir im just a noob here.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *princedanly*
> 
> @wermad
> 
> im so sorry sir im just a noob here.


Np







, nice pastel btw


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *princedanly*
> 
> @wermad
> 
> im so sorry sir im just a noob here.


Were all noobs next to @wermad!


----------



## wermad

Haha, no way, there are far more experienced wc'ers then me out there.


----------



## princedanly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Np
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , nice pastel btw


thanks.
things that i've used:
ek supremacy evo plexi nickel clean
ek-fc titan xxl w/backplate
primochill primoflex advance lrt 5ft‎
ek csq 3/8, 5/8 compression fittings‎ 10pcs
ek psc angle adapters 90degree 8pcs
ek psc angle adapters 45degree‎ 5pcs
ek ekoolant pastel red‎
bitspower mini valve
bitspower male to male rotary fittings 2pcs
bitspower t-fittings
bitspower stop fitting
koolance quick disconnect female short 2pcs
koolance quick disconnect male short‎ 2pcs
xspc d5 photon 270 pump/res combo‎
xspc d5 lock ring‎
black ice nemesis 360gts xflow
black ice nemesis 240gts xflow
black ice nemesis 120gts‎
servo nidec gentle typhoon ap-15, 4pcs
swiftech helix 120pwm‎, 2pcs


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You could always do what Lowfat did and cut away all but the back part of the fan's casing and mount the fans to the underside of the adapter so that it's recessed into the rad. I don't know how much it might negatively affect airflow but it is a super cool looking mod. I could also see it being really helpful in some instances where space is a concern as the fan will only extend ~20mm or so from the rad mounted like that.


LowFats mod is stunning. I was hoping to lessen the dead spot a little while I'm at this. The radiator mount on the 760T is such that mounting 120mm front intake fans to a 280mm radiator is simple, so I only need the adapters on the pull side. I recognize that push/pull gives only a minor benefit but the room is there so might as well. But with 2 sets of adapters sandwiching a 54mm rad it starts to get pretty ridiculous.

Each adapter is 12mm deep so I do imagine they will act as mini shrouds:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Right now it sounds like I have a fountain in my living room lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would punch two holes in the top and install fillports in them. Much tidier and you can put two tubes with barbs at the connecting end in order to keep it simple and submerged in the flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You hit the Go! button to get your system up and running? That ASUS board will take about a week or so to identify your RAM but once identified you shouldn't have any issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad I will not be going 280 cause that is right smart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


And that would be, but this thing comes out seldom and to me it's easier to clean in its staten still a good idea either way.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Right now it sounds like I have a fountain in my living room lol
> 
> 
> And that would be, but this thing comes out seldom and to me it's easier to clean in its staten still a good idea either way.


How come you're testing it outside the case?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How come you're testing it outside the case?


best way to test, clean and check if every component is working really. Blocks can be checked for leaks that way, rads can be cleaned, loop test can be done to have an expectation of flow in different configurations and so on.


----------



## mus1mus

Baggins, you should never let that cat out! or in!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol, funny thing is I don't have a cat's
But yeah in the instructions from bitspower they recommend a 24hr leak test, so good time to do the 2nd flush on everything before the final distilled flush (bought at least 6 gallons of distilled last night and only have 1.5 left

Pulled the pond pump out of the loop


----------



## electro2u

*Why does 1 of my pumps sound like it's sucking in air for a second every few minutes or so?* Is the impeller maybe damaged?
It's the one I usually use to help fill the system, in the bay res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*


I really like the look of LEDs in the acrylic blocks, but I can't ever find peace with the wiring, even nicely sleeved. Is there any super clean way to do it? I can't tell where it's routed on this photo.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I tucked it under the memory channels hard to see with the black pcb of the mobo


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> *Why does 1 of my pumps sound like it's sucking in air for a second every few minutes or so?* Is the impeller maybe damaged?
> It's the one I usually use to help fill the system, in the bay res.


Nahh you're good. It's just sucking in an air bubble every now and then. Mine did that until all the air was gone.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got a question, its not normal for the pump to make a humming noise and vibrate the case is it?

I _think_ I have the pump set to 3 but it could be 4 and yeah its humming and vibrating the whole case slightly even tho its on an anti vibration rubber thing


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Got a question, its not normal for the pump to make a humming noise and vibrate the case is it?
> 
> I _think_ I have the pump set to 3 but it could be 4 and yeah its humming and vibrating the whole case slightly even tho its on an anti vibration rubber thing


Seems to me pumps quiet down as the loop bleeds the air into the res. Can take unreasonably long if you have the loop tightly closed. D5s definitely hum to a degree but it's sort of about harmonics with the materials of the case to a degree, and if you can play with the pump speed (doesn't have to be right on 3 or 4, you can set the dial anywhere between--like 3 and a half) you may find a "sweet spot" where the hum is inaudible, or at least less so.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Seems to me pumps quiet down as the loop bleeds the air into the res. Can take unreasonably long if you have the loop tightly closed. D5s definitely hum to a degree but it's sort of about harmonics with the materials of the case to a degree, and if you can play with the pump speed (doesn't have to be right on 3 or 4, you can set the dial anywhere between--like 3 and a half) you may find a "sweet spot" where the hum is inaudible, or at least less so.


Thanks, I think it could still be bleeding, I didn't really give it much time and its completely closed

I'll play with the speed again to see if I can shut it up, I just remember the pump being dead silent on 3 last time


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> don;t mean to interrupt the reminiscing, however i would like a couple of opinions on my water cooling set up, granted i will hear mixed things here as i have heard everywhere else, but it cant hurt to confuse my brain even more right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i have an h440, which i have modded the front panel of to allow for a push pull set up on a Monsta 360 see pictures in spoiler 1...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will also have a slim 30mm -240mm rad up top.
> 
> I'll be running a 5960X and 2x gtx 980's all of which will be on water.
> 
> I have already measured and drawn up the plans of where the pump and reservoir and everything will go so i know my components will fit in just fine my question is more to do with which way the loop should flow... the most economical way and neatest way when thinking about the tubing is res - pump - GPU's - CPU - 240 - 360 - res however i have no idea if this is going to be any good or not as its my first water loop ever. now in theory i can take the tubes anywhich way i want and i'll have to figure out how to make it look good along the way.
> 
> my second issue is which way to have the fans blowing.... now originally i modded the front to increase the cases capacity to move clean air (make it more practical right?) however im hearing many opinions that my front rad should be exhausting air.... my room as an ambient temp of around 19-21 degrees even in summer so its pretty average maybe even slightly cold. i will not be overclocking anything very much as 1. i havnt ever before, and 2. for my use i dont think i would need to all that much. there is also a 140mm exhaust i can use. all the fans bar the 140mm are noisblocker eloops as you can see from the above pictures.


Well I can tell you you have picked the best fans possible. I love my nb eloops and I think everyone should jump on the bandwagon, granted they are pretty expensive but hey were computer enthusiasts, cheap isn't in our vocabulary. I will go to any length to get the best performance to noise ratio possible. I was under the assumption that eloops could only be used in push because the blades stick up over the case, do you have risers on your fans, the ones on the front monsta rad? Also what fan grill is that on the front looks like some sort of uv blue or is that just the light?

but loop order doesn't really matter as long as the res comes before the pump. Think it out and maybe even draw a diagram. Us 90 degree adapters and 45s to make your runs shorter and cleaner looking whenever possible. Most people forget to order these initially and they can be a real lifesaver. I suggest getting 4 or each. I prefer bitspower because I cheaper out on one occasion and bought some xspc ones and alphacool double rotary and the ac ones leaked







( moral of the story is don't cheap out on your fittings and adapters!

Also you want to order parts to install a drain off of your pump or the lowest point in your loop. You don't want to risk shooting coolant all over your expensive parts do you when it comes time to upgrade or do general loop matinence. If your anything like me I love to upgrade and I'm constantly selling and buying new parts to try out. Watercooling deffinatly complicates that but if you have a quick and easy way to drain your loop it makes it way easier for that to be possible. The first wc rig I did I didn't put in a drain and boy did I regret that... needless to say all my other rigs have drains now. Sure it will cost you about an extra 50 bucks but it's tottally worth it. You will need a few male to male rotary adapters, a t fitting and a drain, preferably bitspower with a plug just in case. When it comes time to drain just unscrew the plug and screw in a length of tubing attached to a barb or compression fitting. I can take pics of mine if you need a visual but it's easy enough to figure out I put mine on the outlet of my pump. Good luck with you build I'm excited to see the final product and temps!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> My favorite was the guy who posted a picture of his build, one person said they didn't like one of the tubes, He got all offended and said people in a niche community should be supporting eachother. Wanted just showers of praise. Build was fine but shouldn't get so offended that someone didn't like one run of tube.


Don't post pics of your rig on the Internet and expect people to not criticize it, or say it suck, or give suggestions. It will happen no matter who built it and how good or bad it is. I've got alot of good ideas for stuff like that. Did a build and posted a pic and the tubing runs were horrible but at the time of building I couldn't see any other way to do it. Posted the pic and got a lot of suggestions and ideas from people, and I thank everyone for that because it wouldn't be what it was today without all that. Yeah it can hurt sometime if people don't like what you did but man up and accept that not everyone likes the same things.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Hey guys I've got a quick question. I bought a used d5 strong pump the 12-24 v one and I'm wonder what kind of controller I'd have to use to get it to run at 24v?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Nahh you're good. It's just sucking in an air bubble every now and then. Mine did that until all the air was gone.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Yah you were right but I think more specifically the issue was the pressure built up in the upper reservoir. I don't think I've ever had a system this tightly sealed before. I opened up the ports on top and topped it off and it went away completely after I started it up again.


----------



## Bluemustang

Question. I ordered a bunch of Gentle Typhoon AP-15s off coolerguys from amazon and what i got was an AP-53 in a plain box with no accessories. (and in a book box no less with no bubble wrap whatsoever, im afraid they could have been damaged in transport)

A little research suggests these are just the OEM versions from nidec and SHOULD be the exact same fans but i see martin tested both the Scythe and OEM Nidec variants and the nidec had 560 FPM airflow while the scythe had 600.

Might there be some differences or did he just get a wonky unit?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a43MUaY9Xc4 nidec
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4thL33rPlfY scythe


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Well I can tell you you have picked the best fans possible. I love my nb eloops and I think everyone should jump on the bandwagon, granted they are pretty expensive but hey were computer enthusiasts, cheap isn't in our vocabulary. I will go to any length to get the best performance to noise ratio possible. I was under the assumption that eloops could only be used in push because the blades stick up over the case, do you have risers on your fans, the ones on the front monsta rad? Also what fan grill is that on the front looks like some sort of uv blue or is that just the light?
> 
> but loop order doesn't really matter as long as the res comes before the pump. Think it out and maybe even draw a diagram. Us 90 degree adapters and 45s to make your runs shorter and cleaner looking whenever possible. Most people forget to order these initially and they can be a real lifesaver. I suggest getting 4 or each. I prefer bitspower because I cheaper out on one occasion and bought some xspc ones and alphacool double rotary and the ac ones leaked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( moral of the story is don't cheap out on your fittings and adapters!
> 
> Also you want to order parts to install a drain off of your pump or the lowest point in your loop. You don't want to risk shooting coolant all over your expensive parts do you when it comes time to upgrade or do general loop matinence. If your anything like me I love to upgrade and I'm constantly selling and buying new parts to try out. Watercooling deffinatly complicates that but if you have a quick and easy way to drain your loop it makes it way easier for that to be possible. The first wc rig I did I didn't put in a drain and boy did I regret that... needless to say all my other rigs have drains now. Sure it will cost you about an extra 50 bucks but it's tottally worth it. You will need a few male to male rotary adapters, a t fitting and a drain, preferably bitspower with a plug just in case. When it comes time to drain just unscrew the plug and screw in a length of tubing attached to a barb or compression fitting. I can take pics of mine if you need a visual but it's easy enough to figure out I put mine on the outlet of my pump. Good luck with you build I'm excited to see the final product and temps!


Thanks for all this. i've yet to test the fans out however that info about the risers will most likely be useful I will check that later and get back to you. if it doesn't work, 3 e-loops for sale







haha

The grill is a dual layer grill that i have painted... so everything that you see in blue was originally either black or white. its not UV because my whole ceiling in my room i s painted in UV and it does my head it haha.

i think the tube paths should all be short enough to not require fittings randomly to make a turn. but i will keep it in mind when i am drawrign it out.

Yes i will be puting a drain. i have since checked the Monsta and it has a drain port at the bottom, i just need to drill a G1/4 thread into the bottom of the case to put the fittings in will keep you posted on the WC side of things here otherwise the build logs in the sig


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Question. I ordered a bunch of Gentle Typhoon AP-15s off coolerguys from amazon and what i got was an AP-53 in a plain box with no accessories. (and in a book box no less with no bubble wrap whatsoever, im afraid they could have been damaged in transport)
> 
> A little research suggests these are just the OEM versions from nidec and SHOULD be the exact same fans but i see martin tested both the Scythe and OEM Nidec variants and the nidec had 560 FPM airflow while the scythe had 600.
> 
> Might there be some differences or did he just get a wonky unit?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a43MUaY9Xc4 nidec
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4thL33rPlfY scythe


Those are two different tests of the exact same model of fan, and both were made by Nidec. One is not a 'Scythe' and the other an OEM Nidec variant.


Spoiler: Like I explained here where you asked this same question in the Gentle Typhoon thread ....



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Those are two different tests of the exact same model of fan, and both were made by Nidec. One was not a 'Scythe' and the other a 'Nidec'. Scythe only was a distributor for them until the two had a falling out for some reason. There will always be differences between different tests and different fans even of the same type. Like Martin wrote to me in a PM suggesting to me to test more than one fan of each type if and when possible.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ... Also note that there is at times fairly significant variation in fan samples. I didn't usually have the opportunity to test more than one but I have found differences....
> 
> 
> 
> If you look here Martin tested 3 different AP-15s in this roundup (which he labeled GT15OLD, GTyphoon15A, and GTyphoon15B) and each had different results ...
Click to expand...


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Question. I ordered a bunch of Gentle Typhoon AP-15s off coolerguys from amazon and what i got was an AP-53 in a plain box with no accessories. (and in a book box no less with no bubble wrap whatsoever, im afraid they could have been damaged in transport)
> 
> A little research suggests these are just the OEM versions from nidec and SHOULD be the exact same fans but i see martin tested both the Scythe and OEM Nidec variants and the nidec had 560 FPM airflow while the scythe had 600.
> 
> Might there be some differences or did he just get a wonky unit?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a43MUaY9Xc4 nidec
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4thL33rPlfY scythe


Fans vary between samples, and they are the exact same model fan.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Those are two different tests of the exact same model of fan, and both were made by Nidec. One is not a 'Scythe' and the other an OEM Nidec variant.


Look at them deltas


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Look at them deltas


Yeah they have airflow like a hurricane and the noise decibels to match.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Those are two different tests of the exact same model of fan, and both were made by Nidec. One is not a 'Scythe' and the other an OEM Nidec variant.


I know i asked there too but i found that thread after i posted here and thought that was a better spot...

So onto another question...how long is it normal for there still to be air in a loop? My system has been running for nearly a week now and the coolant level is still dropping roughly 1mm a day. I've looked everywhere possible and there are no leaks anywhere. Just seems odd for the level to be dropping this long later.

Res>dual pump>bottom rad>gpu 1+2 in parallel>top rad>cpu>res.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I know i asked there too but i found that thread after i posted here and thought that was a better spot...
> 
> So onto another question...how long is it normal for there still to be air in a loop? My system has been running for nearly a week now and the coolant level is still dropping roughly 1mm a day. I've looked everywhere possible and there are no leaks anywhere. Just seems odd for the level to be dropping this long later.
> 
> Res>dual pump>bottom rad>gpu 1+2 in parallel>top rad>cpu>res.


Seems to be a bit strange.

My air-bubbles were pretty much gone after ~1-2 hours, without shaking or tilting my case / parts.

I filled-up my res, turned on the pump to let it got sucked empty and rinsed and repeated it up to the loop was full.

After 1 day I topped the res a bit up and that was it.

I did no leak-test-run for hours or so and only did a short check after the loop was filled and then I got my rig back up and running.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Should I keep my Alphacool Monsta 480s or go with EK-PE 480s instead? I think even if I go with the Monsta's this time around they will be exchanged with EK-PE 480s later anyways ... thing is that it might be easier to make the loop one time rather than two times.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *princedanly*
> 
> thanks.
> things that i've used:
> ek supremacy evo plexi nickel clean
> ek-fc titan xxl w/backplate
> primochill primoflex advance lrt 5ft‎
> ek csq 3/8, 5/8 compression fittings‎ 10pcs
> ek psc angle adapters 90degree 8pcs
> ek psc angle adapters 45degree‎ 5pcs
> ek ekoolant pastel red‎
> bitspower mini valve
> bitspower male to male rotary fittings 2pcs
> bitspower t-fittings
> bitspower stop fitting
> koolance quick disconnect female short 2pcs
> koolance quick disconnect male short‎ 2pcs
> xspc d5 photon 270 pump/res combo‎
> xspc d5 lock ring‎
> black ice nemesis 360gts xflow
> black ice nemesis 240gts xflow
> black ice nemesis 120gts‎
> servo nidec gentle typhoon ap-15, 4pcs
> swiftech helix 120pwm‎, 2pcs


Nice list








. How's your photon pump combo?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Should I keep my Alphacool Monsta 480s or go with EK-PE 480s instead? I think even if I go with the Monsta's this time around they will be exchanged with EK-PE 480s later anyways ... thing is that it might be easier to make the loop one time rather than two times.


It depends on your fans. 140 right?

From the xtremerigs PE review, looks like they like medium to higher rpm fans (>1500). Summary shows to be good a performer. Also, consider the resale value of your old rads; you may end up spending the same on the PE's after selling the UT86s. I was in the same dilemma and just ended up keeping them since i bought mine (very clean btw) for the price of a UT60 or any higher end rad. Currently running them with my fans at 4.8v (under 1k) and on a manual controller.

in before the Alphacool hate-squad shows up and says it will eat your first born, poison the world, steal from the impoverish and promote global war.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> My air-bubbles were pretty much gone after ~1-2 hours, without shaking or tilting my case / parts.


Yeah I always shake/tilt just to make sure nothing caught in a radiator-this usually ends up dislodging a few large bubbles too (though they may well have come out on their own eventually). This is easier said then done for some rigs and setups, obviously.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah I always shake/tilt just to make sure nothing caught in a radiator-this usually ends up dislodging a few large bubbles too (though they may well have come out on their own eventually). *This is easier said then done for some rigs and setups, obviously*.


This. It's nearly impossible for me to tilt around my desk to shake any bubble loose. And I have my radiators installed on their sides horizontally with the IN on the to port and OUT on the bottom, so it makes removing bubbles somewhat difficult. Even almost 2 months later I am getting some bubbles working their way out


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not looking forward to getting the air out on my m8 with pedestal lol


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> in before the Alphacool hate-squad shows up and says it will eat your first born, poison the world, steal from the impoverish and promote global war.


I lol'd


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> in before the Alphacool hate-squad shows up and says it will eat your first born, poison the world, steal from the impoverish and promote global war.
> 
> 
> 
> I lol'd
Click to expand...

Says the guy that waged a one man EK hate campaign.....

We are perfectly entitled to our opinion Wermad and there are many that feel the same way with many citable references,Im glad yours are fine but this thread is littered with many that are not.


----------



## emsj86

Not this again lol


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not this again lol


the Kraken has been released!

run everybody Ruuuuuun! JK


----------



## bundymania




----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Says the guy that waged a one man EK hate campaign.....
> 
> We are perfectly entitled to our opinion Wermad and there are many that feel the same way with many citable references,Im glad yours are fine but this thread is littered with many that are not.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not this again lol
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> the Kraken has been released!
> 
> run everybody Ruuuuuun! JK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Oh, god, here we go again....







.

Btw, that one man war ended up being into a real fight of consumers vs EK. Did you forget that already??? You were all over RR forums. Wow, maybe age is catching up or something....c'est la vie.

edit: also, I was there when csq launched and was following along. Not for my personal interest (or benefit of any sponsorships), but for the community as a whole. Lets not forget the ek csq setup I had recently and my invite to ek beta? I don't hold grudges forever....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bundy, are you planning any new radiator roundup reviews?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Says the guy that waged a one man EK hate campaign.....
> 
> We are perfectly entitled to our opinion Wermad and there are many that feel the same way with many citable references,Im glad yours are fine but this thread is littered with many that are not.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not this again lol
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> the Kraken has been released!
> 
> run everybody Ruuuuuun! JK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh, god, here we go again....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> *Btw, that one man war ended up being into a real fight of consumers vs EK. Did you forget that already??? You were all over RR forums. Wow, maybe age is catching up or something....c'est la vie.
> 
> edit: also, I was there when csq launched and was following along. Not for my personal interest (or benefit of any sponsorships), but for the community as a whole. Lets not forget the ek csq setup I had recently and my invite to ek beta? I don't hold grudges forever....*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bundy, are you planning any new radiator roundup reviews?
Click to expand...

Exactly,so if we moan long enough then things may change at Alphacool like they did at EK. You make it out as some unjustified hate campaign but its not for those that got crap products.

No one is saying you hold grudges forever but the sight of my SR2 on fire kinda stuck,Phobya/Alphacool are a crap company and shall remain so forever,im not alone in this point of view.

If you are going to make posts looking for a response then dont cry when it happens......


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It depends on your fans. 140 right?
> 
> From the xtremerigs PE review, looks like they like medium to higher rpm fans (>1500). Summary shows to be good a performer. Also, consider the resale value of your old rads; you may end up spending the same on the PE's after selling the UT86s. I was in the same dilemma and just ended up keeping them since i bought mine (very clean btw) for the price of a UT60 or any higher end rad. Currently running them with my fans at 4.8v (under 1k) and on a manual controller.
> 
> in before the Alphacool hate-squad shows up and says it will eat your first born, poison the world, steal from the impoverish and promote global war.


It is 120, I am currently going to run some "nice" Phobya G-Silent 700rpm fans on the Monsta in the top of my case, pretty much because those were the only one that I would use my dremel on.








Long story short, they are modified so that I get the fans on the inside of my case (close fit to RAM and 8-pin CPU-cable). I know they are not optimal for that radiator, but it is the best case scenario in my position.







The bottom Monsta will have 4x Corsair SP120 HP on a controller at around 7v or something. The EK-PE and the Monsta kind of like the same type of fans, but I am going to use fans at around 700-1200 rpm anyways. I doubt I will get as much as new EK-PE for my Alphacool Monsta's because they are grinded down to the bare metal and copper (except the fins that are white, of all things). If I can come around that I want SP120s in the top of my case too everything is fine.







My Monsta-radiators are fine by the way, boiling water rinsing 10-15 times and three loops and no problems for me, I will clean them with boiling water again and they are fine.








I also have a EK-XTC 420 in the front with some 900 rpm 140 mm fans, so the delta temperature is not the problem because this will only cool down my 4930K, the mosfet and chipset on my motherboard (do not start with "overkill" this and that, I do not care).









Well, guess I will try out the Monsta-radiators first and see how it look with the modifications.


----------



## morencyam

Coke rules, Pepsi drools. That's about how I feel about this petty argument anymore.

B Neg doesn't like Alphacool/Phobya and will never recommend them, along with various others. Wermad thinks there is nothing wrong with them, along with various others. The two will never see eye to eye on the matter so why continue to bring it up. It's just like the whole D5 vs DDC debate.

Long story short, don't poke the bear if you don't want to get bit

PS...Don't know about anyone else, but I think that Swiftech block is god awful ugly as sin. I'd even take a CSQ block over that. A bad looking knockoff of B Neg's custom block from CLoS3 IMPACT


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes well I am somewhere in the middle. Mine have come with crap inside more often than not but that's the extent of my issues. So I still buy their rads when they fit my needs (such as when wanting six ports instead of two). And Phobya rads are apparently pretty good, according to info in another recent thread that included feedback from Darlene.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> It is 120, I am currently going to run some "nice" Phobya G-Silent 700rpm fans on the Monsta in the top of my case, pretty much because those were the only one that I would use my dremel on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long story short, they are modified so that I get the fans on the inside of my case (close fit to RAM and 8-pin CPU-cable). I know they are not optimal for that radiator, but it is the best case scenario in my position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom Monsta will have 4x Corsair SP120 HP on a controller at around 7v or something. The EK-PE and the Monsta kind of like the same type of fans, but I am going to use fans at around 700-1200 rpm anyways. I doubt I will get as much as new EK-PE for my Alphacool Monsta's because they are grinded down to the bare metal and copper (except the fins that are white, of all things). If I can come around that I want SP120s in the top of my case too everything is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Monsta-radiators are fine by the way, boiling water rinsing 10-15 times and three loops and no problems for me, I will clean them with boiling water again and they are fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have a EK-XTC 420 in the front with some 900 rpm 140 mm fans, so the delta temperature is not the problem because this will only cool down my 4930K, the mosfet and chipset on my motherboard (do not start with "overkill" this and that, I do not care).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, guess I will try out the Monsta-radiators first and see how it look with the modifications.


Usually its down to space/fitment with these bastards. I ended up going w/ a shroud to squeeze them in my new case. Even with three (480s) in push/pull @ 5v, my setup can get the rads/fans toasty. With your cpu (and don't worry about overkill, i love it) it should be a sidegrade tbh (unless you need the space).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Coke rules, Pepsi drools. That's about how I feel about this petty argument anymore.
> 
> B Neg doesn't like Alphacool/Phobya and will never recommend them, along with various others. Wermad thinks there is nothing wrong with them, along with various others. The two will never see eye to eye on the matter so why continue to bring it up. It's just like the whole D5 vs DDC debate.
> 
> Long story short, don't poke the bear if you don't want to get bit
> 
> PS...Don't know about anyone else, but I think that Swiftech block is god awful ugly as sin. I'd even take a CSQ block over that. A bad looking knockoff of B Neg's custom block from CLoS3 IMPACT


Its not that I have brand preference, I take issue with how ppl who don't like certain products or makes go about ranting in childish manners as if they were in day-care. There are much more adult like ways do go about it. Even after trying to ask politely and out of respect, the message just doesn't seem to get across. So at this point, it only seems to use the same tactics to irritate them much like they irritate us. I know few ppl fed up but most won't say anything. I might as well take one for the team and jump into the serpent's pit (







). I'm a lowly modder with nothing incredible to shout about so I have no worries about being reputation maimed.

On-topic- re-swiftech blocks: The block seems to have a very simple flow path...very reminenscent of blocks of yore. How good do they stack up? Maybe why EVGA dropped them. Its as simple as the Alphacool designs (shock! OMG!!!!! Stop the "Clarkson has been suspended" news! Instead run wermad doesn't like all of Alphacool's products! Hell has frozen over!!! Frozen cpu will start shipping orders now!







)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> On-topic- re-swiftech blocks: The block seems to have a very simple flow path...very reminenscent of blocks of yore. How good do they stack up? Maybe why EVGA dropped them. Its as simple as the Alphacool designs (shock! OMG!!!!! Stop the "Clarkson has been suspended" news! Instead run wermad doesn't like all of Alphacool's products! Hell has frozen over!!! Frozen cpu will start shipping orders now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Short story is that Swiftech blocks usually have very good flow and excellent gpu core temp (usually on top charts on both those figures). However, usually they perform not quite well on VRM temps and after titan/780 blocks _era_ evga decided to switch to ek which happens to have usually the best vrm temps. Of course all this is from a consumer perspective.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> It is 120, I am currently going to run some "nice" Phobya G-Silent 700rpm fans on the Monsta in the top of my case, pretty much because those were the only one that I would use my dremel on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long story short, they are modified so that I get the fans on the inside of my case (close fit to RAM and 8-pin CPU-cable). I know they are not optimal for that radiator, but it is the best case scenario in my position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom Monsta will have 4x Corsair SP120 HP on a controller at around 7v or something. The EK-PE and the Monsta kind of like the same type of fans, but I am going to use fans at around 700-1200 rpm anyways. I doubt I will get as much as new EK-PE for my Alphacool Monsta's because they are grinded down to the bare metal and copper (except the fins that are white, of all things). If I can come around that I want SP120s in the top of my case too everything is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Monsta-radiators are fine by the way, boiling water rinsing 10-15 times and three loops and no problems for me, I will clean them with boiling water again and they are fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have a EK-XTC 420 in the front with some 900 rpm 140 mm fans, so the delta temperature is not the problem because this will only cool down my 4930K, the mosfet and chipset on my motherboard (do not start with "overkill" this and that, I do not care).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, guess I will try out the Monsta-radiators first and see how it look with the modifications.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Usually its down to space/fitment with these bastards. I ended up going w/ a shroud to squeeze them in my new case. Even with three (480s) in push/pull @ 5v, my setup can get the rads/fans toasty. With your cpu (and don't worry about overkill, i love it) it should be a sidegrade tbh (unless you need the space).
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Coke rules, Pepsi drools. That's about how I feel about this petty argument anymore.
> 
> B Neg doesn't like Alphacool/Phobya and will never recommend them, along with various others. Wermad thinks there is nothing wrong with them, along with various others. The two will never see eye to eye on the matter so why continue to bring it up. It's just like the whole D5 vs DDC debate.
> 
> Long story short, don't poke the bear if you don't want to get bit
> 
> PS...Don't know about anyone else, but I think that Swiftech block is god awful ugly as sin. I'd even take a CSQ block over that. A bad looking knockoff of B Neg's custom block from CLoS3 IMPACT
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Its not that I have brand preference, *I take issue with how ppl who don't like certain products or makes go about ranting in childish manners as if they were in day-care*. There are much more adult like ways do go about it. Even after trying to ask politely and out of respect, the message just doesn't seem to get across. So at this point, it only seems to use the same tactics to irritate them much like they irritate us. I know few ppl fed up but most won't say anything. I might as well take one for the team and jump into the serpent's pit (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I'm a lowly modder with nothing incredible to shout about so I have no worries about being reputation maimed.
> 
> On-topic- re-swiftech blocks: The block seems to have a very simple flow path...very reminenscent of blocks of yore. How good do they stack up? Maybe why EVGA dropped them. Its as simple as the Alphacool designs (shock! OMG!!!!! Stop the "Clarkson has been suspended" news! Instead run wermad doesn't like all of Alphacool's products! Hell has frozen over!!! Frozen cpu will start shipping orders now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Dude,you are the only one ranting here.

And my brand opinions dont equate to loyalty. Where yours seems to very much.....

Opinions are just that,opinions. Take it or leave it but enough with the ranting already.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Usually its down to space/fitment with these bastards. I ended up going w/ a shroud to squeeze them in my new case. Even with three (480s) in push/pull @ 5v, my setup can get the rads/fans toasty. With your cpu (and don't worry about overkill, i love it) it should be a sidegrade tbh (unless you need the space).


Yes, they were mainly bought for a previously project where space was no problem, but I never got rid of them after that.







My 4930K @ 4,7 Ghz even got the MO-RA3 1260 @ 30-40C with no fans spinning, so ... yeah, I know it could get lukewarm







Do not care though, the temperatures is great either way.









The Monsta-radiators is the sweet-spot to fill up my case, it will be neat and "enough" inside my case which I really like, the LD Cooling PC-V8 is big enough to have the "emptiness-problem" going.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its not that I have brand preference, I take issue with how ppl who don't like certain products or makes go about ranting in childish manners as if they were in day-care. There are much more adult like ways do go about it. Even after trying to ask politely and out of respect, the message just doesn't seem to get across. So at this point, it only seems to use the same tactics to irritate them much like they irritate us. I know few ppl fed up but most won't say anything. I might as well take one for the team and jump into the serpent's pit (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I'm a lowly modder with nothing incredible to shout about so I have no worries about being reputation maimed.


It annoys you, I get it. But just be the bigger person and just ignore it. It's not worth causing arguments over differing opinions. You're "stooping to his level" by antagonizing every time someone asks about Alphacool products. Give you opinion and leave it at that. Don't start bashing on the haters just because you disagree with them. I think the only reason B Neg is so vocal about it is because his computer was literally on fire. I think I'd act the same way if that had happened to me. And it seems to me that he doesn't pop his head in and add his 2 cents on Alphacool until someone calls him out on why is dislikes them so much. He doesn't like them and nobody will ever change that, except maybe Alphacool/Phobya. Just leave him be.


----------



## wermad

@gobi

Ld is pretty tight on top, you have the ut86 in the bottom?

@moren

True that, though I'm not the one looking for someone specifically. My voice goes out to all. Some like to just tango as the big shots around. We don't need this arrogance here tbh.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Usually its down to space/fitment with these bastards. I ended up going w/ a shroud to squeeze them in my new case. Even with three (480s) in push/pull @ 5v, my setup can get the rads/fans toasty. With your cpu (and don't worry about overkill, i love it) it should be a sidegrade tbh (unless you need the space).
> Its not that I have brand preference, I take issue with how ppl who don't like certain products or makes go about ranting in childish manners as if they were in day-care. There are much more adult like ways do go about it. Even after trying to ask politely and out of respect, the message just doesn't seem to get across. So at this point, it only seems to use the same tactics to irritate them much like they irritate us. I know few ppl fed up but most won't say anything. I might as well take one for the team and jump into the serpent's pit (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I'm a lowly modder with nothing incredible to shout about so I have no worries about being reputation maimed.
> 
> On-topic- re-swiftech blocks: The block seems to have a very simple flow path...very reminenscent of blocks of yore. How good do they stack up? Maybe why EVGA dropped them. Its as simple as the Alphacool designs (shock! OMG!!!!! Stop the "Clarkson has been suspended" news! Instead run wermad doesn't like all of Alphacool's products! Hell has frozen over!!!
> 
> 
> Frozen cpu will start shipping orders now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )










Don't Play with my emotions Wermad. Is this True?

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

From what I've seen from the alphacool radiators that I personally have, other than poor qc they are pretty well manufactured. Mind you one of them isn't perfectly square when sat on a table from probably welding the points to quickly and in the same spot for too long which is a minor annoyance but causes no fitment issues. They were rather dirty but not to the extreme I've seen pictures of or mentioned. Some slight dirt specs and turned the coolant color slightly off. In fact I had more issues with the EK blocks and backplates I purchased than the alphacool rads. Alphacool fittings are anything but pretty though and I would stay away from them from a purely aesthetics point of view.

All said and done is "buyer beware". If you as a consumer cannot make up your mind about a product unless someone makes it up for you then shame on you. I personally have no brand preference when it comes to anything and calls em as I sees em.


----------



## wermad

@tco

Just being cheeky







.

Last I heard, just like all of us, it's up in the air if fcpu.com will be revived. I've said it before, we should get an investment group going and but it







.

@sinne,

Noticed the nickel has a tint of blue this time I bought some. Not the bright almost chrome finish. The bp fittings were oos and Enzotech are just too difficult to screw down with lrt advanced. So grabbed some alpha for some extra fittings I needed. Though the rotary alphacool worked properly and much smoother then the older bp's I bought.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> From what I've seen from the alphacool radiators that I personally have, other than poor qc they are pretty well manufactured. Mind you one of them isn't perfectly square when sat on a table from probably welding the points to quickly and in the same spot for too long which is a minor annoyance but causes no fitment issues. They were rather dirty but not to the extreme I've seen pictures of or mentioned. Some slight dirt specs and turned the coolant color slightly off. In fact I had more issues with the EK blocks and backplates I purchased than the alphacool rads. Alphacool fittings are anything but pretty though and I would stay away from them from a purely aesthetics point of view.
> 
> *All said and done is "buyer beware". If you as a consumer cannot make up your mind about a product unless someone makes it up for you then shame on you.* I personally have no brand preference when it comes to anything and calls em as I sees em.


Or instead of just opinions, you could look up facts about all radiators in question that fit the build you are looking to Use. Hard data doesn't lie.

Ask VSG

TCO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @tco
> 
> Just being cheeky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Last I heard, just like all of us, it's up in the air if fcpu.com will be revived. I've said it before, we shoyld get an investment group going and but it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've got a couple grand to invest.

I constantly have my eyes and ears searching for clues of the Comeback of FCPU.







*SO DON"T MESS WITH MY EMOTIONS!!*


----------



## DarthBaggins

After reading through this e-peen fest of hate for branding and others views can we get back to the real subject at hand. I don't come on this forum to see this kind of crap. B Neg is the one being the Adult here by stating fact and not crying about the others view until it's directed to him. So lets be the adults we pretend to be or are and move on!

**End Rant**


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> After reading through this e-peen fest of hate for branding and others views can we get back to the real subject at hand. I don't come on this forum to see this kind of crap. B Neg is the one being the Adult here by stating fact and not crying about the others view until it's directed to him. So lets be the adults we pretend to be or are and move on!
> 
> **End Rant**


+REP

I think we the older members of ocn that try to make this forum more mature.


----------



## szeged

psshh who even buys their radiators anymore, i make my own, along with the blocks and fittings, i dont even use tubing, i let gravity feed the water, it falls from one fitting into another and out that block into another.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @gobi
> 
> Ld is pretty tight on top, you have the ut86 in the bottom?


Yes, the PC-V8 is pretty tight in the top, it still take Monsta (85 mm) and 25 mm fans which is cut some on the inside towards the motherboard. I have another Monsta (85 mm) in the bottom yes, it is perfect down there.







The case is exactly 22 cm wide, 11 cm of radiator + 8 cm of pump and pumptop gives me the exact space for a fitting in between.







Love it!









The Monsta 480 could be mounted with 12 mm fans in the top and be good though (then I would not have needed to "modify" the fans), the fans are still 3-4 mm above the RAM.







It will be tight with both 8-pin CPU-cable, Monsta 480 and 25 mm fans together with acrylic tubing right beneath the fans. I tend to like tight space in big cases. Also fit the 420 in the front with fans will make it even more compact, add two EK-X3 250 reservoirs and it will look tidy, yet good. Will do some vertical tubing with fill-ports in the mid-plate (it will look like most CaseLabs SMA8 with dual reservoirs)








I think there might be reason to make a new XXL-side door as well







The XL-side door is not big enough


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> psshh who even buys their radiators anymore, i make my own, along with the blocks and fittings, i dont even use tubing, i let gravity feed the water, it falls from one fitting into another and out that block into another.


I use midichlorian based water, it forces itself into the appropriate blocks when needed







Who needs gravity when you have midichlorians

Cant wait to do the final flush and inspect my BP block for leaks. . now to sit in Atlanta Traffic


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @tco
> 
> Just being cheeky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Last I heard, just like all of us, it's up in the air if fcpu.com will be revived. I've said it before, we should get an investment group going and but it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Agreed. Make that OCN Marketplace a real online store rather than essentially Craigslist.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> *Or instead of just opinions, you could look up facts about all radiators in question that fit the build you are looking to Use. Hard data doesn't lie.
> *
> Ask VSG
> 
> TCO
> I've got a couple grand to invest.
> 
> I constantly have my eyes and ears searching for clues of the Comeback of FCPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *SO DON"T MESS WITH MY EMOTIONS!!*


So much this.

Also, in regards to FCPU, we are getting close to the end of the 30 day period in which FCPU was not accepting orders(will have been 30 days March 23). I wonder if they are any closer to reopening now than they were 3 weeks ago. I still have a feeling in my gut that they won't be coming back. From what I see on their Facebook page, many people are still complaining about not receiving their month old orders. Even if they do reopen, I think they lost a lot of return business. Just look at their reseller rating now(1.53/10







)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> +REP
> 
> I think we the older members of ocn that try to make this forum more mature.


Where's my Rep? Im Mature. Look.. Here's one of These









TCO


----------



## szeged

im choosing to stay out of the alphacool vs others argument because i have the maturity of a 7 year old.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im choosing to stay out of the alphacool vs others argument because i have the maturity of a 7 year old.


Come on who Doesn't take a GUy with a Unicorn on his head seriously .

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Where's my Rep? Im Mature. Look.. Here's one of These
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


No.. you use flithycool rads.. like me







we are immature









-Ramz


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Come on who Doesn't take a GUy with a Unicorn on his head seriously .
> 
> TCO


i think the horn adds character.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> No.. you use flithycool rads.. like me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we are immature


Ah..... I did buy one of those.... Crap...

*Plus XSPC and EK... THE MADNESSS UGHHH*

TCO


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ah..... I did buy one of those.... Crap...
> 
> *Plus XSPC and EK... THE MADNESSS UGHHH*
> 
> TCO


How dare you mix brands! Didn't you know using the same brand of everything makes your computer faster?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> How dare you mix brands! Didn't you know using the same brand of everything makes your computer faster?










I should have consulted.... I should have..... WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!

TCO










( I literally can't stop laughing at work, Priceless)


----------



## skupples

I often times get Alphacool and Aquaxomputer confused.








I know. A grave sin.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Or instead of just opinions, you could look up facts about all radiators in question that fit the build you are looking to Use. Hard data doesn't lie.
> 
> Ask VSG
> 
> TCO
> I've got a couple grand to invest.
> 
> I constantly have my eyes and ears searching for clues of the Comeback of FCPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *SO DON"T MESS WITH MY EMOTIONS!!*


The site is still up, so either Jim will loose his web hosting soon or they're maintaining a few assets/expenses up in the meantime for a possible relaunch. Who knows....maybe someone in the area should stop by and say hi







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> After reading through this e-peen fest of hate for branding and others views can we get back to the real subject at hand. I don't come on this forum to see this kind of crap. B Neg is the one being the Adult here by stating fact and not crying about the others view until it's directed to him. So lets be the adults we pretend to be or are and move on!
> 
> **End Rant**


No one should feel intimidated in this thread, yet you get the feeling if you don't go along w/ someone's opinions, you're gonna be harassed. Things were much different when Chunky and Kevin were running the show. There was no bowing down to others or feeling pressure to stay quiet. Let's respect one another and behave like adults. I've already asked (and so have a few others) before that we put the names away but things don't change. What else can one do??? I certainly don't like bending over...

Gotta go to doc's (again). ending this volley...










-wermad


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have consulted.... I should have..... WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( I literally can't stop laughing at work, Priceless)


OCN Water Cooling Club and Picture Gallery. Now with 100% more comedy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I often times get Alphacool and Aquaxomputer confused.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know. A grave sin.


I used to make the same mistake constantly. I still get thrown for a loop when someone refers to their "AC" product. Is it Alphacool or AquaComputer?


----------



## princedanly

@wermad
hows my photon?

actually sir i'm no expert regarding pump/res combo and it is my 1st venture to custom loop, i dont have any experience using other pump/res to compare with. photon is fine i think i love the build quality its robust and huge and its glass, hehe not prone scratches.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> How dare you mix brands! Didn't you know using the same brand of everything makes your computer faster?


STOP lying i've a cooler master keyboard and a logitech mouse and my PC is faster that my friend who has both corsair


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *princedanly*
> 
> @wermad
> hows my photon?
> 
> actually sir i'm no expert regarding pump/res combo and it is my 1st venture to custom loop, i dont have any experience using other pump/res to compare with. photon is fine i think i love the build quality its robust and huge and its glass, hehe not prone scratches.


I have an ac res and love the glass body. but its a pita to bleed the air as i don't have the right vortex reducer (actually, I only have the fountain effect as it turns out). Photon is on my list if I decide to switch out my AC res.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its not that I have brand preference, I take issue with how ppl who don't like certain products or makes go about ranting in childish manners as if they were in day-care. There are much more adult like ways do go about it. Even after trying to ask politely and out of respect, the message just doesn't seem to get across. So at this point, it only seems to use the same tactics to irritate them much like they irritate us. I know few ppl fed up but most won't say anything. I might as well take one for the team and jump into the serpent's pit (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I'm a lowly modder with nothing incredible to shout about so I have no worries about being reputation maimed.


It's not a subjective matter. The evidence is there, and it is clear as day that buying products originating from the aforementioned companies is a *gamble*. How much of a gamble is up for debate until we see the RMA statistics.

This is not necessarily targeted at you, although applicable; If you cannot refrain from getting emotional during a discussion, please do not post.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Someone in this Forum has a Cat Eating Popcorn as an Avatar. I feel like that sometimes, For better or for worse. The Only thing that could become of the information or misinformation based off of each others experiences (Good, Bad or indifferent) should be positive. The way someone chooses to speak of another brand could and should reflect the experiences they have had with them. Some veterans in here just choose to be a little more outspoken than others.

Honestly. Your budget will tell you what to buy.

Unless of course someone chooses to sponsor me.. Then.... well I guess I could use that radiator.. ON THE HOUSE BABY









TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> It's not a subjective matter. The evidence is there, and it is clear as day that buying products originating from the aforementioned companies is a *gamble*. How much of a gamble is up for debate until we see the RMA statistics.
> 
> This is not necessarily targeted at you, although applicable; If you cannot refrain from getting emotional during a discussion, please do not post.


You (and a few) are missing my point:
Quote:


> There are much more adult like ways do go about it.


I don't have a beef if you had issues. I actually care, that's what's being in a community is all about. I don't care for the "alphastool" names. That's what is annoying me and others.

If you'll are getting cheeky with it, cool. Though, it comes up very often and just in an ongoing tirade of boo-hoo, its annoying. Mature your posts a bit. That's all I'm asking for. Is that hard to do? It seems so as some ppl won't give up? I have no other tactic then to just be immature at times. Seems to get their attention though....(as it works great for them







.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> It's not a subjective matter. The evidence is there, and it is clear as day that buying products originating from *the aforementioned* *any watercooling* companies is a *gamble*. How much of a gamble is up for debate until we see the RMA statistics.
> 
> This is not necessarily targeted at you, although applicable; If you cannot refrain from getting emotional during a discussion, please do not post.


Fixed that for you








They all have their moments.


----------



## wermad

Steering this back on topic (on way to doc's, wife driving me







).

So, rumor has it amd will launch the 390x edit: *wce* with an aio (reference model only with higher clocks then custom aib). I hope block makers don't get lazy and not make one. EK is really the only one trying to cover as many cards as possible. Imagine running quad aio gpu' setups! I know the 295x2 does use an aio, but that is two cores pushing a 120 rad over time. 300w single core, is much better then 500w tdp setup.

Let me find the article...
Quote:


> The 390X WCE (an internal codename?), is a special enthusiast edition that will be sold along with 'typical' custom coolers designed by AIBs. Unlike NVIDIA's NVTTM cooling, WCE will not be the only available solution. Technically WCE could just be the reference model for reviewers, or slightly faster 390X for extra price. It's really hard to tell right now. (They fixed the typo).


http://videocardz.com/55146/amd-radeon-r9-390x-possible-specifications-and-performance-leaked

edit: so this means a custom card and cooler for all and a reference wce for amd uber only, ??? Another 280X pr promises and fail at the end....


----------



## electro2u

I just hate the mental image I get every time I read the word "stool".

I suppose they just mean the rads are only fit to sit on?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> After reading through this e-peen fest of hate for branding and others views can we get back to the real subject at hand. I don't come on this forum to see this kind of crap. *B Neg is the one being the Adult here by stating fact and not crying about the others view until it's directed to him.* So lets be the adults we pretend to be or are and move on!
> 
> **End Rant**
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No one should feel intimidated in this thread, yet you get the feeling if you don't go along w/ someone's opinions, you're gonna be harassed. Things were much different when Chunky and Kevin were running the show. There was no bowing down to others or feeling pressure to stay quiet. Let's respect one another and behave like adults. I've already asked (and so have a few others) before that we put the names away but things don't change. What else can one do??? I certainly don't like bending over...
> 
> Gotta go to doc's (again). ending this volley...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -wermad
Click to expand...

Not once did he claim he was intimidated,not be me nor anyone else. No one is bowing to anyone or anything nor is being subjected to any pressure.
If someone wants to call Alphacool,Alphastool then its up to them,I didnt even coin the phrase.....

Do you actually read what you quote?


----------



## Turbz

Some pics to lighten the mood


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Some pics to lighten the mood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You bought some of Hukkels blocks? How does it perform?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Turbz is on Fire BABY

I Like


----------



## Turbz

@B NEGATIVE yes @DiamondCooling blocks from the lads. Waiting on aquapipes before I can test them.


----------



## VSG

PPCs discount time
Quote:


> Wishing you the many wonderful things that an Irish blessing will bring. Happiness, joy, love, and laughter, may your day be content and may you smile happily ever after! Happy St. Patrick's Day! And if it comes up a bit short here are some coupons to help you save you some cash! Also, check out some of the new offerings here at Performance-PCs.com. So grab a green beer or two and Enjoy the Holiday!
> 
> Spend $50 or more and get 7% off: "STPATTY15-7"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from March 16th 2014 through March 20th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> PPCs discount time


Excuse to order more stuff...and do it while drunk! Double excuse! win!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> psshh who even buys their radiators anymore, i make my own, along with the blocks and fittings, i dont even use tubing, i let gravity feed the water, it falls from one fitting into another and out that block into another.
> 
> 
> 
> I use midichlorian based water, it forces itself into the appropriate blocks when needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs gravity when you have midichlorians
> 
> Cant wait to do the final flush and inspect my BP block for leaks. . now to sit in Atlanta Traffic
Click to expand...

I use the tears of babies as my coolant and I have the block plates coated with the broken dreams of HWBot competitors....

Worth at least 10c on any forum of your choice.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @tco
> 
> Just being cheeky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Last I heard, just like all of us, it's up in the air if fcpu.com will be revived. I've said it before, we should get an investment group going and but it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @sinne,
> 
> Noticed the nickel has a tint of blue this time I bought some. Not the bright almost chrome finish. The bp fittings were oos and Enzotech are just too difficult to screw down with lrt advanced. So grabbed some alpha for some extra fittings I needed. Though the rotary alphacool worked properly and much smoother then the older bp's I bought.


And move it to the west coast. So far as I know there are no good west coast vendors yet and shipping cross country really puts a dent into purchasing budget. Sux, imho. And it's too bad that Newegg can't get their wc'ing act together. Cuz I know a lot of us would buy from them even though they've gone Amazon on us.







:

~Ceadder


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> PPCs discount time


@geggeg when are you going to list your stuff so I can ruffle through and buy some things!

And tried the PPC code and it doesn't work?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Excuse to order more stuff...and do it while drunk! Double excuse! win!


the only way I can swallow some of the prices is with alcohol


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Some pics to lighten the mood


if you could just leave them in a box outside your house and post your address i will be robbing you later on. thankyou!







:thumb: Looking awesome!!!


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> the only way I can swallow some of the prices is with alcohol


Made a trumpet out of adapters and extenders today, pretty sure it also costs more than a real trumpet.

Doesn't sound as good though.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Made a trumpet out of adapters and extenders today, pretty sure it also costs more than a real trumpet.
> 
> Doesn't sound as good though.


Even better. I can use said trumpet as a beer bong to force more alcohol into my system. I won't be able to see anything, much less the prices, once I'm blackout drunk


----------



## jon666

I see that bundymania guy all over when searching for watercooling parts. I drool every time. I'm starting to think he is in the Pink Panther business to fund his habit.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I see that bundymania guy all over when searching for watercooling parts. I drool every time. I'm starting to think he is in the Pink Panther business to fund his habit.


He is a well known tester/reviewer. I think the manufacturers send him their new products to review as they are coming out


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> And move it to the west coast. So far as I know there are no good west coast vendors yet and shipping cross country really puts a dent into purchasing budget. Sux, imho. And it's too bad that Newegg can't get their wc'ing act together. Cuz I know a lot of us would buy from them even though they've gone Amazon on us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> ~Ceadder


I want to second this! For as long as Newegg has been in the PC component business there is no reason they shouldn't carry at least some basic components, (besides AIO's). I love using Newegg because I can keep track and update my wish lists as well as go back in history and look at the builds I bought, especially when the CPU has been cemented on the motherboard stored in the garage for a few years and you can't remember what the heck it is.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> And move it to the west coast. So far as I know there are no good west coast vendors yet and shipping cross country really puts a dent into purchasing budget. Sux, imho. And it's too bad that Newegg can't get their wc'ing act together. Cuz I know a lot of us would buy from them even though they've gone Amazon on us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> ~Ceadder


Problem with Cali, is the location and taxes. Being on the far side of the countryl will make shipping pricier for those on the other side. We need a centralized location. Cali is nearing 10% sales tax and that sucks for those of use here. Might as well keep buying from ppcs.com.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> the only way I can swallow some of the prices is with alcohol
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Made a trumpet out of adapters and extenders today, pretty sure it also costs more than a real trumpet.
> 
> Doesn't sound as good though.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Even better. I can use said trumpet as a beer bong to force more alcohol into my system. I won't be able to see anything, much less the prices, once I'm blackout drunk
> 
> 
> 
> [/
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Can also add a glass tube res to make things more fu....wait what we talking about









Tomorrow will be a fun day. And then back to work









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I see that bundymania guy all over when searching for watercooling parts. I drool every time. I'm starting to think he is in the Pink Panther business to fund his habit.


I've been waiting for more reviews from him, especially a rad roundup. I prefer to have more then one review source as most new folks tend to distrust a single source (even though I and others can vouch for it). Love the pr0n splash he does occasionally (and not as frequent as in the past....







).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> And move it to the west coast. So far as I know there are no good west coast vendors yet and shipping cross country really puts a dent into purchasing budget. Sux, imho. And it's too bad that Newegg can't get their wc'ing act together. Cuz I know a lot of us would buy from them even though they've gone Amazon on us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Problem with Cali, is the location and taxes. Being on the far side of the countryl will make shipping pricier for those on the other side. We need a centralized location. Cali is nearing 10% sales tax and that sucks for those of use here. Might as well keep buying from ppcs.com.
Click to expand...

Washington is Less than 8 unless you live in the city. Also no Employment tax and the cost of doing business is much better than the big EC/ Cali









People on the EC can pick their vendor and the middle of the country would likely split the difference.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can say it's nice having such low shipping costs from ppc's


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I can say it's nice having such low shipping costs from ppc's


Next order is gonna cost me round at least $35 or more. With $35 I could get 3 ring temp fittings in that order. Not sure how a $20 box(Priority Mail) goes up to $35. No weight limit, and nothing of any great length in the box.









I'm talkin 2 Thermospheres(G92 adapters), Heatsinks(Swiftech), Shutoff Valve, Adapter for NPT thread, 2 boxes of Monsoon fittings(might up this to three) an SLi connector and an XSPC Rad mount. That's it. I could pad and pack this for $20 And ship it anywhere in the US for that. How is this $35? I'm not bashing PPCs'. I just think that their shipping quotes treat me like I am made of platinum.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

add $15 and get $3.50 off







.


----------



## TheCautiousOne




----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Ceadderman

Wow, whose Rads are those? Would fit my Darkside build nicely.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> add $15 and get $3.50 off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Over $300 worth of kit. 1 Thermosphere is $75.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

They look at lot like this:

http://www.magicool.biz/product_240slim.htm

most likely darkside ordered magicool rads.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> They look at lot like this:
> 
> http://www.magicool.biz/product_240slim.htm
> 
> most likely darkside ordered magicool rads.


I'm pretty sure they are an XSPC variant actually


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm pretty sure they are an XSPC variant actually


really James? XSPC? Never saw a XSPC rad with those front tanks protruding, usually is like a box. They look the same like this:

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Magicool-SLIM-DUAL-240-Radiator_11034.html

which now I have confirmation are the same like this:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1221

anyway, nice slim rads was considering something along those lines for an upcoming build.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> really James? XSPC? Never saw a XSPC rad with those front tanks protruding, usually is like a box. They look the same like this:
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Magicool-SLIM-DUAL-240-Radiator_11034.html
> 
> which now I have confirmation are the same like this:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1221
> 
> anyway, nice slim rads was considering something along those lines for an upcoming build.


I believe the original Darkside rads were an XSPC variant and these are a further modified version from the same OEM. I could be wrong, but I think I'm correct.


----------



## Ceadderman

All I know is they look awesomesauce with their fine ace low fpi selves.









~Ceadder


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This. It's nearly impossible for me to tilt around my desk to shake any bubble loose. And I have my radiators installed on their sides horizontally with the IN on the to port and OUT on the bottom, so it makes removing bubbles somewhat difficult. Even almost 2 months later I am getting some bubbles working their way out


It's the same for me. Can't tilt or shake much.

The Thermaltake Bigwater 850 GT - Kit of my wife (and when I had mine as well) needs to be always topped up after a few month, even without any leaks, but it's using barb's and no compression-fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> really James? XSPC? Never saw a XSPC rad with those front tanks protruding, usually is like a box. They look the same like this:
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Magicool-SLIM-DUAL-240-Radiator_11034.html
> 
> which now I have confirmation are the same like this:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1221
> 
> anyway, nice slim rads was considering something along those lines for an upcoming build.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the original Darkside rads were an XSPC variant and these are a further modified version from the same OEM. I could be wrong, but I think I'm correct.
Click to expand...

Nah,they are Magicool mate. Magicool are an OEM that will do 'custom' runs for you. I know they look like EX copies but they ain't.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nah,they are Magicool mate. Magicool are an OEM that will do 'custom' runs for you. I know they look like EX copies but they ain't.


Roger that. I know the thicker Darkside rads are XSPC, so I assumed.... Poorly


----------



## Gabrielzm

I just wish we had more options available for slim to medium rads with multiple ports. something between 30 to 40 mm with 4 or 5 (with drain) ports. Anyway they look good James and I like the matte finish.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nah,they are Magicool mate. Magicool are an OEM that will do 'custom' runs for you. I know they look like EX copies but they ain't.
> 
> 
> 
> Roger that. I know the thicker Darkside rads are XSPC, so I assumed.... Poorly
Click to expand...

No one died this day so its all good.

Talking of XSPC,am I the only one finding it hard to source AX rads? Seems the UK has limited stock of XSPC in general.....
I finally got a 360 and a 240 for a reasonable price but they don't match, one is white,one is black. £70-80 for a 240 is robbery.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No one died this day so its all good.
> 
> Talking of XSPC,am I the only one finding it hard to source AX rads? Seems the UK has limited stock of XSPC in general.....
> I finally got a 360 and a 240 for a reasonable price but they don't match, one is white,one is black. £70-80 for a 240 is robbery.


It certainly does not make sense the price. Just checked here:

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/Radiators_37/filter_brand_12.html

and the difference between xspc ax and ek pe is absurd. Specially considering that they are quite similar rads (if not the same).


----------



## Tracti

So thought I might throw this up, just some colour work I've been doing. Still have some cable sleeving to finish


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> and the difference between xspc ax and ek pe is absurd. Specially considering that they are quite similar rads (if not the same).


They are certainly not the same radiator. Apart from different dimensions, the AX shell is a solid piece, while the PE shell is four thin bits of folded metal.

I love my PE rads









... but I also have used AX rads and the quality of the outer shell is much higher on the AX rads. You can take it apart multiple times; it's solid and won't bend. Whereas the PE shell is almost impossible to put back together without scratching the paint somewhere, or bending something, or stripping a screw thread.


----------



## fast_fate

I've not taken the core out of a AX,
But I found the PE was easy to disassemble and not too bad to get back together, and without any damage.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Those do look close to the Magicool rads I got recently, not a bad rad for the price really. But of course time will tell once I get the loop fully plumbed


----------



## soad666p

quick questions can this be fixed, i have order a new block any ways,it happened when leak testing,


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> quick questions can this be fixed, i have order a new block any ways,it happened when leak testing,


no. it cannot be fixed, nor would i chance a "fixed/broken" part anywhere near my system.... the second it decides to become UN-fixed, bye bye everything.


----------



## soad666p

ya i was think that, that why i order a new block,i got to take the whole loop part and let them dry out,thank gabe i do leak test


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Cautious One


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


Looks awesome, I'm loving your white theme


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Thanks Madhatter! I am trying to get it all together. Won't be too long before I am done!









The Cautious ONe


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> quick questions can this be fixed, i have order a new block any ways,it happened when leak testing,


is that an EK block? i think u didn't need to buy the full block you could have bought the top only.


----------



## LandonAaron

I took my loop apart this weekend to add some new components and I noticed the silver kill-coil I had in one of the lines had changed color for silver to solid black. Closer inspection revealed that it was covered in a thin layer of some sort of black silky substance. I was able to whipe it all away with a paper towel, but I didn't feel good about putting it back in my system so I am just using biocidal drops now. I was running with distilled water, kill coil, and a couple of biocidal drops. I checked the CPU block, and there may have been a couple tiny dark spots but nothing like on the kill coil. What could that stuff be?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> psshh who even buys their radiators anymore, i make my own, along with the blocks and fittings, i dont even use tubing, i let gravity feed the water, it falls from one fitting into another and out that block into another.


PSH, been done before.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I took my loop apart this weekend to add some new components and I noticed the silver kill-coil I had in one of the lines had changed color for silver to solid black. Closer inspection revealed that it was covered in a thin layer of some sort of black silky substance. I was able to whipe it all away with a paper towel, but I didn't feel good about putting it back in my system so I am just using biocidal drops now. I was running with distilled water, kill coil, and a couple of biocidal drops. I checked the CPU block, and there may have been a couple tiny dark spots but nothing like on the kill coil. What could that stuff be?


Uh most like the fact that you used "biocidal drops" _and_ a kill coil. Don't need both. Maybe some drops of anti-corrosion something or other but the kill coil is the biocide, man. Or just get like some Mayhem's X1 which does it all and call it a day.

Better look inside your blocks too.


----------



## NomNomNom

Is there anyway to get a DC-LT pump top within Canada? Ordered over 300 dollars worth of stuff from aquatuning and forgot the top to connect it to the res...
They have a 50 dollar limit though to order anything and i only need the top.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh that sucks and is one of the most frustrating parts of this hobby. Hope it works out for you.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> quick questions can this be fixed, i have order a new block any ways,it happened when leak testing,


Strange how you have a separated crack going thru the bolt down.....the bolt should of held that together.

Sure you didnt hammer a 5mm diode into that 3mm diode hole?


----------



## changboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Is there anyway to get a DC-LT pump top within Canada? Ordered over 300 dollars worth of stuff from aquatuning and forgot the top to connect it to the res...
> They have a 50 dollar limit though to order anything and i only need the top.


Hello , i'm in Canada(quebec) and i order a lot of my water cooling part at ncix.ca

http://search.ncix.com/search/?qcatid=0&q=water+cooling

p.s.; i bought a xspc top d5 there at only 29.00 canadian dollard.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> They are certainly not the same radiator. Apart from different dimensions, the AX shell is a solid piece, while the PE shell is four thin bits of folded metal.
> 
> I love my PE rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but I also have used AX rads and the quality of the outer shell is much higher on the AX rads. You can take it apart multiple times; it's solid and won't bend. Whereas the PE shell is almost impossible to put back together without scratching the paint somewhere, or bending something, or stripping a screw thread.


Thanks, those two are under my consideration list too along with the magicool slim. Yet, I remember hearing that the cores of the PE and the AX are very similar. I think it was on the extremerigs rad review thread. VSG (@geggeg) was you who noticed this?


----------



## VSG

Yeah, I had asked EK and XSPC about it too. The cores are pretty much the same for AX V1 and EK PE based on what I saw also.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I've not taken the core out of a AX,
> But I found the PE was easy to disassemble and not too bad to get back together, and without any damage.


It was a toss up between the PE and AX,AX won out on 2 points.

1. Dat shroud,it cries out 'Mod ME!'

2. Done a few builds with PE's and wanted a change.

I wanted AquaC Radicals but no 240 scotched that idea.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It was a toss up between the PE and AX,AX won out on 2 points.
> 
> 1. Dat shroud,it cries out 'Mod ME!'
> 
> 2. Done a few builds with PE's and wanted a change.
> 
> I wanted AquaC Radicals but no 240 scotched that idea.


I've not posted the Radical results yet..
Push/Pull testing is complete, though Push only is still running.
Airplex Radical 2 360mm is the worst performing rad tested yet......
Last place in 8 out of 9 flow rate/fan speed combos tested








Good Looker, Bad Performer









EDIT: worst performing in Push/Pull


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I've not posted the Radical results yet..
> Push/Pull is testing is complete, though Push only is still running.
> Airplex Radical 2 360mm is the worst performing rad tested yet......
> Last place in 8 out of 9 flow rate/fan speed combos tested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good Looker, Bad Performer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: worst performing in Push/Pull


Damn...I was afraid of that. Is it that restrictive like the original airplex modularity?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Damn...I was afraid of that. Is it that restrictive like the original airplex modularity?


mid range restriction...as the 7 tubes are all run in parallel - front to back flow path, not U-Flow.
As flow rates increases, the restriction levels rise higher comparatively to other rads.


----------



## soad666p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Strange how you have a separated crack going thru the bolt down.....the bolt should of held that together.
> 
> Sure you didnt hammer a 5mm diode into that 3mm diode hole?


no dont think so all the bolt on the bolt were the same size


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> no dont think so all the bolt on the bolt were the same size


I think he means the LED hole's.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> no dont think so all the bolt on the bolt were the same size


how in the hell have you cracked it like that









get some

polyweld
weld on
dichloromethane

or whatever acrylic bonding/glue you can find & you could fix it?

or a new top is probably the easiest/cheaper way though


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Strange how you have a separated crack going thru the bolt down.....the bolt should of held that together.
> 
> Sure you didnt hammer a 5mm diode into that 3mm diode hole?
> 
> 
> 
> no dont think so all the bolt on the bolt were the same size
Click to expand...

There looks like the beginning of a crack on the other tapped hole too. That crack is across the top of the bolt so it wasnt doing anything to support it. My money is perhaps the block was over tensioned,that kind of damage is not natural.

You need to mail EK support,dont weld it or DIY fix it. The plate could be out of tolerance. Include those pics and do more from the top and each side,EK are on the ball for support but you need to provide good clear pics for best result.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> no dont think so all the bolt on the bolt were the same size
> 
> 
> 
> I think he means the LED hole's.
Click to expand...

That's bout the only way I see that happening. Unless somehow he thot that a screw went there.









~Ceadder


----------



## soad666p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's bout the only way I see that happening. Unless somehow he thot that a screw went there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


nah didnt go near the side of the block, i knew that they were led holes, i know which holes to go for









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There looks like the beginning of a crack on the other tapped hole too. That crack is across the top of the bolt so it wasnt doing anything to support it. My money is perhaps the block was over tensioned,that kind of damage is not natural.
> 
> You need to mail EK support,dont weld it or DIY fix it. The plate could be out of tolerance. Include those pics and do more from the top and each side,EK are on the ball for support but you need to provide good clear pics for best result.


thanks i will email them and see what can be done. i am not going to do any diy to the block. Diy and water cooling dose not seem to go well with each other.

when i was doing the leak test some water had leak on to the cpu and the gpus, what would be the best way of drying them out, i left them for a few days but i want to make sure that all the water has gone before even thinking about turing the system on it self


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got some new toys...


----------



## emsj86

. What do you think painted the back plate carvings blue


----------



## wermad

Looks cool


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> What do you think painted the back plate carvings blue


Nice work. What did you use?

I've always thought it looked good when people did that with their back plates. I'm contemplating doing that with my actual blocks. I still have an EK Supreme HF and have tossed around the idea of painting the milled logo orange to match the loop


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> . What do you think painted the back plate carvings blue


Nice how did you do it? And can you take a pic with a better potato pls.


----------



## emsj86

Not hard. Just a paint pen. Than use lighter fluid or goof off or similar. Whip off but don't press hard or put too much fluid on a rag. Going over it one more time and going to do ek bridge as well. Spray paint works too. Spray Into a cup and use a brush


----------



## morencyam

Paint pen was my guess. That or craft paint and super fine brush. Paint pen would probably be easier though. Just need to find one that matches the shade of orange I have in my loop. Sometimes I wish I had done a black/white theme so I could just use a white out pen to fill in the engravings.


----------



## emsj86

. Sorry only iPhone for now


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sorry only iPhone for now


Looks quite nice, and don't worry about the iPhone quality its still more than sufficient.


----------



## wermad

I used pen corrector


----------



## catbuster

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> . What do you think painted the back plate carvings blue






Nice touches, i like, little details are all that matters anyways


----------



## emsj86

And there cheap. Outside of getting a new gpu or case. Which I really want another gpu but can't justify it with only running 1080p. Figure I'll get the next set of Gpus under water sli and go 4k if it's good for gaming at that point or 1440p 144hz. I love my 1080 at 144hz. As for a case. Hex gear r40 is a must have


----------



## wermad

Saw this budget "mod" a while ago and decided to try it. Came out decent


----------



## emsj86

Came out good wermad. The ek symbol was easy the backplate actual became kinda hard as the engraving is not deep at all and easly whips away when removing excess paint.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol i tried doing it on my asus dc2 waterblock engraving and it just wasnt deep enough for the LET i used
dont use LET


----------



## Gabrielzm

That was fast:

http://www.ekwb.com/news/579/19/EK-releases-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-TITAN-X-water-blocks/


----------



## wermad

EK has been known to get early samples from manufacturers. Says a lot about them and why they tend to lead the pack. Good stuff







:


----------



## DarthBaggins

As in the Automotive industry I will not buy the first gen of a set due to defects and issues that tend to come from being the first. Which is why I went with BitsPower on my 970.


----------



## Vintage

Bitspower is doing WAY better than before when it comes to support for different GPUs though. They released a bunch of good stuff for the GTX 900 series and they teased a TITAN X block on their facebook very recently. Still not as fast as EK is but a in step in the right direction i think.


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh, I would worry if EK hadn't had any blocks for GPUs'. They've been at this game for a seriously LONG time. So if it were my choice I'd be up on their blocks(Cleans) before all others. Pretty sure they've got their offerings sorted out.









You guys lookin to paint in the logos on your kits should remember Testors modeling paints and fine grade paint brushes.










~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

*My old* Og ek 4870x2 block


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *My old* Og ek 4870x2 block


If you look too closely, it kinda looks like a snail who's been decapitated.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, I would worry if EK hadn't had any blocks for GPUs'. They've been at this game for a seriously LONG time. So if it were my choice I'd be up on their blocks(Cleans) before all others. Pretty sure they've got their offerings sorted out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys lookin to paint in the logos on your kits should remember Testors modeling paints and fine grade paint brushes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah I love testors model paints. I recently did some painting on my case with some glittery green then I put florescent yellow over the top and it looks like almost an acid wash color I love it. Other people didn't really like it too much but it's my build I'll do what I want! I used it to paint the red on my mobo black because I was doing a black and uv green build. It turned out great and was just what it needed. I had to use a bunch of coats to get the color solid but it didn't take too long to dry. Will be using it again many times I feel in the future.


----------



## princedanly




----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> If you look too closely, it kinda looks like a snail who's been decapitated.


The snail is real


----------



## KoNLaR

Just completed my first custom loop build in the R4









Want to know what you guys think and if you have any questions just ask









Specs can be found here: http://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> Just completed my first custom loop build in the R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Want to know what you guys think and if you have any questions just ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs can be found here: http://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW


. Looks good. Good job. I usually don't like the look of soft tubing but the red soft tubing with white leds always pops well


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> Hello , i'm in Canada(quebec) and i order a lot of my water cooling part at ncix.ca
> 
> http://search.ncix.com/search/?qcatid=0&q=water+cooling
> 
> p.s.; i bought a xspc top d5 there at only 29.00 canadian dollard.


Problem is, i need a specific pump top which is for the DC-LT


----------



## DarthBaggins

Think I found that adapter plate for my Aqualis Pro that I wont be using, just need to remember who needed it







(the adapter for not using the aquapipe)

This lil guy:


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Think I found that adapter plate for my Aqualis Pro that I wont be using, just need to remember who needed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the adapter for not using the aquapipe)
> 
> This lil guy:


@wermad


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'll trade him it for that v1000 psu, lol I kid I kid


----------



## changboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Problem is, i need a specific pump top which is for the DC-LT


If i need a part i cant find in Canada i order here in usa : http://www.frozencpu.com/index.html?id=P9AazDPp


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> If i need a part i cant find in Canada i order here in usa : http://www.frozencpu.com/index.html?id=P9AazDPp


Not recently you haven't. FCPU's been shut down for more than a month now and remains to be seen if it ever opens up for business again. Scroll down to see the "latest news' post on the front page of their site or google for more disturbing info. Pretty sure there's still a now closed thread here on OCN about it all.


----------



## emsj86

I need an honest answer. Doesn't bother me either way. Is there anyway (with cleaning up my build log) I could/should try to enter amateur mod of the month. I know I wouldn't win and I don't have major mods but it would seem fun


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I need an honest answer. Doesn't bother me either way. Is there anyway (with cleaning up my build log) I could/should try to enter amateur mod of the month. I know I wouldn't win and I don't have major mods but it would seem fun


Do it,modding is not the highlight on OCN,a nicely made rig is all you need. Engage the people in your log,Explain what you are doing,I suck at this myself,I used to do very detailed step updates showing me doing the work...now I do the work and take ok pictures afterwards.......


----------



## emsj86

Yes b neg that's what I kinda did and changed things and took pics as I went along. So it got kind of messy. Let alone I didn't have much traffic through my build log. I'll do t see what happens. Can't hurt I guess...here goes nothing. If anyone is interested http://www.overclock.net/t/1519439/blue-blurry-build-log-by-itzems-phanteks-enthoo-pro-case-new-version-2-0-petg-tubing


----------



## Soccerking3000

Here is my rig


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes b neg that's what I kinda did and changed things and took pics as I went along. So it got kind of messy. Let alone I didn't have much traffic through my build log. I'll do t see what happens. Can't hurt I guess...here goes nothing. If anyone is interested http://www.overclock.net/t/1519439/blue-blurry-build-log-by-itzems-phanteks-enthoo-pro-case-new-version-2-0-petg-tubing


You need bigger pics.....MUCH bigger..

I use Imgur to host my pics,dont use the OCN picture importer


----------



## emsj86

Thank you for the suggestion. I will do that than. Really need to just but a camera worth taking pictures with too


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thank you for the suggestion. I will do that than. Really need to just but a camera worth taking pictures with too


Lights are more important than the camera. Low ISO with a tripod will net you great strides towards better pics,i just use my monitor as a light source.
Snef posted pics not long ago showing the exact method i use myself.


----------



## changboy

Oh ya i didnt saw frozencpu is close now, yes i read on the site maybe for 30 days but we will see what will happen.

Here i decide to post 3 pic of my pc but pic have a bad quality coz i take them with my cheap handphone, anyway.

my pc ; [email protected] cooling; ek supremacy evo
:asrock x79 extreme 6
; crossfire r9-290 cooling xspc waterblock
: 2 X 360mm rad + 1 X 280mm rad + koolance external braket
: swiftech mcp 655(d5) + swiftech micro reservoir v2
:evga 1000p1 psu
:case corsair 750d
: memory gskill tridentx 2400mhz
:2 X xspc red light sensor temperature
ioneer bluray burner
: 4 X ssd + 4 X hdd inside the case + 1 X external hdd


----------



## snef

mmmmmmmm gold


----------



## emsj86

You smelting the wife's jewelry snef?


----------



## Kimir

What coolant color will you go with to keep seeing all the gold beauty? Clear?


----------



## emsj86

Black could work. But looks as if it might be white


----------



## szeged

looks delicious snef.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> mmmmmmmm gold
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Snef making my dreams come true....I want a gold theme build. Enzotech compression fittings, black adv lrt, bp brass res, cpu and gpu(????).

snef, you can donate some of these toys for my rig, to snef'ify it!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> mmmmmmmm gold
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are purrty blocks right there.....

Mine are as stock as they come,may have to get an acetal top tho.....












And black out the hardware......


----------



## Lefik

What's that little L bracket bellow the rear IO on that Gigabyte board?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

WiFi module mount.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Any reason at all to go with either push/pull 700 rpm fans on the Alphacool Monsta 480, or even 700rpm in pull and 700-1500rpm in push? Thinking extended top on my LD Cooling PC-V8, my brother in law can do the welding for me ... yay or nay?

Just need to make the new side-panel and it is loop-building-time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Any reason at all to go with either push/pull 700 rpm fans on the Alphacool Monsta 480, or even 700rpm in pull and 700-1500rpm in push? *Thinking extended top on my LD Cooling PC-V8*, my brother in law can do the welding for me ... yay or nay?
> 
> Just need to make the new side-panel and it is loop-building-time.


If you are thinking of cutting the case,dont. It will turn to jelly when the doors are off and its fully loaded.


----------



## Mads1

@B NEGATIVE are you gonna sand off the red on the GIG Board.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you are thinking of cutting the case,dont. It will turn to jelly when the doors are off and its fully loaded.


I have already cut the case, more than once. But there is going in steel-plates of 0.9 mm so no worry, oh yes and a 420 radiator in front ... the top will just get an extension of 25 mm (just a top piece that I will fasten with 25/30 mm screws into the Monsta radiator in top of my case, through some fans). There will also be more stabilization inside the case than it was before so I am not really that worried about flimsy case when everything is mounted, it will probably not be disassembled that much either from this point forward. The new side-door will be made of a 0,9 mm steel plate as well as 4mm thick acrylic so it will probably be about as good as the original door, but weigh a lot more.









By the way, my case also have holes in the bottom and mid-plate of 60 mm diameter so the case is already "ruined".


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Any reason at all to go with either push/pull 700 rpm fans on the Alphacool Monsta 480, or even 700rpm in pull and 700-1500rpm in push? Thinking extended top on my LD Cooling PC-V8, my brother in law can do the welding for me ... yay or nay?
> 
> Just need to make the new side-panel and it is loop-building-time.


I wouldn't really recommend a Monsta for fans at that 700 RPM. If you haven't ordered the radiators yet, you might be better off getting an RX v3 or a Nemesis GTX.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Finally got around to ph testing the Distilled in the R.C70, was sitting around 7.0-7.2 so in went the Mayhems Pastel


----------



## Taint3dBulge

So is frozencpu still doing business? They are the only place that has the all nickel 780ti classified waterblocks. It'd be odd if they were closed, but yet the website is still up.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> So is frozencpu still doing business? They are the only place that has the all nickel 780ti classified waterblocks. It'd be odd if they were closed, but yet the website is still up.


_Site down until further notice
February 21, 2015
FrozenCPU.com will not be taking new orders or processing pending orders for at least the next 30 days. We currently are attempting to hire new staff to get things moving again. We apologize for this inconvenience. - Mark Friga Jr.
_

so no. they are not open. This is the latest news on fzcpu website.


----------



## changboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> So is frozencpu still doing business? They are the only place that has the all nickel 780ti classified waterblocks. It'd be odd if they were closed, but yet the website is still up.


Is this ek water block : http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-blocks-ek-fc780-gtx-50-96736.htm

I think you can order it from here : http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-nicke-full-cover-water-block-for-evga-gtx-780-and-gtx-780-ti-classified-series


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> Is this ek water block : http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-blocks-ek-fc780-gtx-50-96736.htm


one of these?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-gpu/shopby/brand--ek-waterblocks/block-gpu-type--nvidia/vga-series--780-gtx-ti/?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> *I wouldn't really recommend a Monsta for fans at that 700 RPM*. If you haven't ordered the radiators yet, you might be better off getting an RX v3 or a Nemesis GTX.


I'm interested in this recommendation and if it is based on some data that you can link to ?
I would suggest that the Monsta does exceptionally well when run in Push/Pull at low rpm (with good fans)
I haven't done the Push only testing yet so the data isn't published, but it soon will be








I would expect the Push only results to not favor the Monsta, but I'll leave judgement on that until I have the results


----------



## wermad

I have my sp120s @ 940rpm (40% power, ~4.8v) for all three monsta's. Uber quiet and would love to test them lower but my controller minimizes to 40% power only (Mix2). Might pick up a used 0-100% controller to test a few things.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just got bashed for my loop in the r.c70 strange thing is I don't see what's wrong with it (no kinks , temps are good) said group stated it was a mess and that I should only have straight concise runs, even tough I'm running soft tubing in it


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just got bashed for my loop in the r.c70 strange thing is I don't see what's wrong with it (no kinks , temps are good) said group stated it was a mess and that I should only have straight concise runs, even tough I'm running soft tubing in it


Looks fine to me. Something a little different and sometimes people don't like different lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's what I figured, just a group o'trolls on a FB group
Definitely wanted to reach through the monitor on them lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> mmmmmmmm gold
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snef making my dreams come true....I want a gold theme build. Enzotech compression fittings, black adv lrt, bp brass res, cpu and gpu(????).
> 
> snef, you can donate some of these toys for my rig, to snef'ify it!
Click to expand...

Steer clear of Enzo tech fittings fttb. My rotary 45s weren't bad but my male/male rotary got coroded to the outside of the rotary. Didn't see a single bit of corrosion in my phobia male/male from the same loop.

I won't be trusting Enzo tech any time soon.









~Ceadder


----------



## Somasonic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just got bashed for my loop in the r.c70 strange thing is I don't see what's wrong with it (no kinks , temps are good) said group stated it was a mess and that I should only have straight concise runs, even tough I'm running soft tubing in it


Funny, I was just looking at it thinking how much I liked the way you'd twisted the cables. It was obviously a conscious design concept, I guess they just didn't get it


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just got bashed for my loop in the r.c70 strange thing is I don't see what's wrong with it (no kinks , temps are good) said group stated it was a mess and that I should only have straight concise runs, even tough I'm running soft tubing in it


do you really care what other people think about your stuff?
does it really matter what other people think about your stuff?

i saw it here. it looks different for sure. its not for me but i like plain. even my yogurt and ice cream is plain. tell em to bug off or start building and selling.


----------



## Vintage

Great job making that Gigabyte board look so sexy, bneg.

They need to bring back the black/green combo. They had something good going with that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well don't really care just don't like being bashed for my work, doesn't feel great whether you care or not. Just guess you get used to constructive criticism and professionalism after a while


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I'm interested in this recommendation and if it is based on some data that you can link to ?
> I would suggest that the Monsta does exceptionally well when run in Push/Pull at low rpm (with good fans)
> I haven't done the Push only testing yet so the data isn't published, but it soon will be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would expect the Push only results to not favor the Monsta, but I'll leave judgement on that until I have the results


I was thinking for singular fan setups; I haven't seen any for push pull at low RPMs on a Monsta. Apologies for not mentioning that.
Any way; these threads show that Monsta's aren't really all that great at low RPMs:
VSG's Quad Rad Roundup
Bundymania's Triple Rad Roundup


Spoiler: Graphs



Quote:


> 600 RPM


Quote:


>






The difference isn't massive; it's not worth swapping radiators for. However, if you're meticulous and haven't bought your radiators yet I wouldn't get them for single row low speed fan setups. The Monstas do really excel at high fan speed though.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I was thinking for singular fan setups; I haven't seen any for push pull at low RPMs on a Monsta. Apologies for not mentioning that.
> Any way; these threads show that Monsta's aren't really all that great at low RPMs:
> VSG's Quad Rad Roundup
> Bundymania's Triple Rad Roundup
> 
> The difference isn't massive; it's not worth swapping radiators for. However, if you're meticulous and haven't bought your radiators yet I wouldn't get them for single row low speed fan setups. *The Monstas do really excel at high fan speed though*.


that is the thing. We all assumed that. But both Bundy and VSG tests were based on single fan row (push or pull) and not push/pull. Here you can see that is not the case. In Push/pull is not on top of the charts at high rpm and shine at low speed:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/

so it actually depends if you are using push/pull or just push or pull.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just got bashed for my loop in the r.c70 strange thing is I don't see what's wrong with it (no kinks , temps are good) said group stated it was a mess and that I should only have straight concise runs, even tough I'm running soft tubing in it
> 
> 
> 
> do you really care what other people think about your stuff?
> does it really matter what other people think about your stuff?
> 
> i saw it here. it looks different for sure. its not for me but i like plain. even my yogurt and ice cream is plain. tell em to bug off or start building and selling.
Click to expand...

What's the point of building a system/loop and posting it here if you don't care? I think that input should be taken with a bit of sodium chloride. I actually do like where his mind was headed but tbh, some people just won't get it. Heck I got an idea for a tandemed section of piping with G1/4 ports at both ends to simplify the setup, rather than twisted tubes. But since there are QDs @ the CPU block it makes sense that way to prevent kinking from the weight of those tubes and coolant.









Just need to filter the opinions through the icgaf filter.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I wouldn't really recommend a Monsta for fans at that 700 RPM. If you haven't ordered the radiators yet, you might be better off getting an RX v3 or a Nemesis GTX.


I know the 700 rpm fans are not optimal for that radiator, but I am not ruining fans that cost more than a few bucks, what I had was some spare Phobya-fans I could sacrifice. The Alphacool Monsta 480s are spare parts I am using in this build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I'm interested in this recommendation and if it is based on some data that you can link to ?
> I would suggest that the Monsta does exceptionally well when run in Push/Pull at low rpm (with good fans)
> I haven't done the Push only testing yet so the data isn't published, but it soon will be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would expect the Push only results to not favor the Monsta, but I'll leave judgement on that until I have the results


I might go with push/pull if I can pull of the extended top on my PC-V8 (which would look awesome too), the thing is that I have four Noctua NF-F12's that I would like to use up top and the Phobya fans inside the case, the push/pull at low rpm was kind of my compromise when I first "had" to use that radiator. I am using it because it is just laying around and it fit my build very well.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I was thinking for singular fan setups; I haven't seen any for push pull at low RPMs on a Monsta. Apologies for not mentioning that.
> Any way; these threads show that Monsta's aren't really all that great at low RPMs:
> VSG's Quad Rad Roundup
> Bundymania's Triple Rad Roundup
> 
> The difference isn't massive; it's not worth swapping radiators for. However, if you're meticulous and haven't bought your radiators yet I wouldn't get them for single row low speed fan setups. The Monstas do really excel at high fan speed though.


I already own the Monsta's and they will be used either with four 700 rpm fans or with four 700 rpm fans and four Noctua NF-F12s. The NF-F12s could be controlled from 300-1500 rpm, right? So I will be laying somewhere between those two points.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> that is the thing. We all assumed that. But both Bundy and VSG tests were based on single fan row (push or pull) and not push/pull. Here you can see that is not the case. In Push/pull is not on top of the charts at high rpm and shine at low speed:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/
> 
> so it actually depends if you are using push/pull or just push or pull.


Right, interesting read. But I did mention above I was thinking of a singular row of fans, not push + pull.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> that is the thing. We all assumed that. But both Bundy and VSG tests were based on single fan row (push or pull) and not push/pull. Here you can see that is not the case. In Push/pull is not on top of the charts at high rpm and shine at low speed:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/
> 
> so it actually depends if you are using push/pull or just push or pull.
> 
> 
> 
> Right, interesting read. But I did mention above I was thinking of a singular row of fans, not push + pull.
Click to expand...

Missing keyword... "or" probably confused. I would suggest pull only. Keeps the decibels liveable and gives solid performance in the process.

~Ceadder


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well don't really care just don't like being bashed for my work, doesn't feel great whether you care or not. Just guess you get used to constructive criticism and professionalism after a while


Just had a look, there is nothing wrong with it, and being different is good, i like clean lines myself, but i do admire people that try things off the beaten track so to speak. Take what people say with a pinch of salt, in life you get the bad and ugly comments on the street and no different here, aslong as you like it.







i do like what you did to that rad.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Missing keyword... "or" probably confused. I would suggest pull only. Keeps the decibels liveable and gives solid performance in the process.
> 
> ~Ceadder


What I meant was that I only knew about using a single row of fans; either push or pull, but I did not know about performance when using both push and pull at the same time.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just got bashed for my loop in the r.c70 strange thing is I don't see what's wrong with it (no kinks , temps are good) said group stated it was a mess and that I should only have straight concise runs, even tough I'm running soft tubing in it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks fine to me. Something a little different and sometimes people don't like different lol


This. Don't neat yourself up over others opinions. It's unique, but still cool. I like it


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Right, interesting read. But I did mention above I was thinking of a singular row of fans, not push + pull.


without trying to convert or compare static air pressures and fan data - of the fans types used, and to keep it easy, though far from precise








as far as the leader-board rankings go,
Push + Pull at low rpm, ends up with same leader-board results as Push only at high rpm.

It makes sense to think about it that way, even though it's far from apples to apples comparison with other test data.
which is why we're doing the Push Only testing atm and updating as we go, so we have that apples to apples data to compare


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Steer clear of Enzo tech fittings fttb. My rotary 45s weren't bad but my male/male rotary got coroded to the outside of the rotary. Didn't see a single bit of corrosion in my phobia male/male from the same loop.
> 
> I won't be trusting Enzo tech any time soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just the compression fittings and maybe some extensions. From the pics, its got a gold, slight aged look to it (bronzed) and not shiny lustering, bright gold (a'la monsoon chrome). I've used their 90° and had one failed after a year. You do get a bit of corrosion in th threads, mainly the painted ones (but I've seen it on other brands including bp). I guess its because i typically buy them used. well, it maybe be new then if I go down this path.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay guys, it's time to pull the trigger on my gear. Anyone know of better than 5% code for PPCs?









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay guys, it's time to pull the trigger on my gear. Anyone know of better than 5% code for PPCs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Spend $50 or more and get 7% off: "STPATTY15-7"

Coupon is good from March 16th 2014 through March 20th 2015.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Right, interesting read. But I did mention above I was thinking of a singular row of fans, not push + pull.


Yep, I known mate, I fully understood that. Was just qualifying that and making clear that Monsta do perform better with a single row of fans if high rpm is been used but the same is not true in push/pull where low rpm seems to perform _relatively_ better that at high rpm. Mind you that all this is in relative terms not absolute. Notice the scale in the graphs and that Monsta push/pull 1850 rpm dissipates 438.3 (W/deltat 10C) while at low rpm (750) push/pull is 215.1 (W/deltat 10C). Relative to other rads is at the top in 750 rpm while is in the middle pack at high rpm in push/pull.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay guys, it's time to pull the trigger on my gear. Anyone know of better than 5% code for PPCs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


"STPATTY15-7" gets you 7% off through the 20th

Edit: got ninja'd


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay guys, it's time to pull the trigger on my gear. Anyone know of better than 5% code for PPCs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Performance-PCs St. Patrick's Day code is good through the 20th:

http://us1.campaign-archive2.com/?u=c5d0ca22f571464ad3718ac66&id=4fb7cd2a79
Quote:


> Spend $50 or more and get 7% off: "STPATTY15-7"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from March 16th 2014 through March 20th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


edit: haha double ninja'd


----------



## Ceadderman

Hahaha thanks guys.









Saved enough to get the Parralel link.









OMG someone there is smoking crack. Priority shipping is $46 ?!? Guess I am doin FedEx ground shipping.









We *REAAAAAAAALLLY* need a WC'ing vendor on the WC. Cause that's ridiculous.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What's the point of building a system/loop and posting it here if you don't care? I think that input should be taken with a bit of sodium chloride. I actually do like where his mind was headed but tbh, some people just won't get it. Heck I got an idea for a tandemed section of piping with G1/4 ports at both ends to simplify the setup, rather than twisted tubes. But since there are QDs @ the CPU block it makes sense that way to prevent kinking from the weight of those tubes and coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to filter the opinions through the icgaf filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


if youre doing it for praise from others, youre doing it wrong. if you constantly worry and care only about what others say, your own opinion is no longer valid. your opinion about your stuff is all that matters. what others think is secondary.


----------



## wermad

BP "abrasive gold" is more matte or satin vs a shine/gloss?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What's the point of building a system/loop and posting it here if you don't care? I think that input should be taken with a bit of sodium chloride. I actually do like where his mind was headed but tbh, some people just won't get it. Heck I got an idea for a tandemed section of piping with G1/4 ports at both ends to simplify the setup, rather than twisted tubes. But since there are QDs @ the CPU block it makes sense that way to prevent kinking from the weight of those tubes and coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to filter the opinions through the icgaf filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if youre doing it for praise from others, youre doing it wrong. if you constantly worry and care only about what others say, your own opinion is no longer valid. your opinion about your stuff is all that matters. what others think is secondary.
Click to expand...

I agree to some extent but then if this were certainly the case there would be crickets in most of the threads.









~Ceadder


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> Is this ek water block : http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-blocks-ek-fc780-gtx-50-96736.htm
> 
> I think you can order it from here : http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-nicke-full-cover-water-block-for-evga-gtx-780-and-gtx-780-ti-classified-series


Exactly the one I want.. Its not on EK's site, nor can i find it anywhere... Only frozencpu.. I really dont want to have to go with the all black model.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> one of these?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-gpu/shopby/brand--ek-waterblocks/block-gpu-type--nvidia/vga-series--780-gtx-ti/?


Those are not for the evga 780ti classified


----------



## Ceadderman

2 Copper/Plexi Thermosephere







check
2 G92 adapters







check
2 Swiftech Heatsink ATI Radeon HD 6870 & 6950 Series Reference Design







check
2 Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fittings 6 Pack, 1/2" x 5/8" - Red







check
1 EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel - Acetal







check

Rang up to over $300 before applying the coupon tag, (ocn55 still works btw) but to save on shipping I went with FedEx ground. USPS quote is simply ridiculous and now the insurance cost is nearly twice that of the other carriers,









I ain't even done yet either.









~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> Is this ek water block : http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-blocks-ek-fc780-gtx-50-96736.htm
> 
> I think you can order it from here : http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-nicke-full-cover-water-block-for-evga-gtx-780-and-gtx-780-ti-classified-series
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly the one I want.. Its not on EK's site, nor can i find it anywhere... Only frozencpu.. I really dont want to have to go with the all black model.
Click to expand...

Well, it's on EK's site, it's just not available because it's 'End of life' meaning they don't make it any more ...

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-nickel.html

I guess if you really want it then you probably better be prepared to jump on it wherever you do still see it, international pricing / shipping or whatever, because it won't last there for long.

Here's another option ...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?search&_nkw=3831109868607&_rdc=1


----------



## mironccr345

Last look before I go back to air cooling. Just until I get a block for my EVGA 980.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Spend $50 or more and get 7% off: "STPATTY15-7"
> 
> Coupon is good from March 16th 2014 through March 20th 2015.


Arg, I keep logging in every few days to keep my cart active until I make my purchase. Stupid Bitspower 970 block I want is out of stock and so is Mayhems Blue Berry Pastel, Don't want to order separate times and pay twice for shipping, really only saving an extra $10 or so with that code vs standard OCN55 code so I will just wait and not switch it for the EK 970 block. The Bitspower one is cheaper AND comes with a back plate AND looks a little better IMO.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Last look before I go back to air cooling. Just until I get a block for my EVGA 980.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is super clean, well done!


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Last look before I go back to air cooling. Just until I get a block for my EVGA 980.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love alternate layout cases


----------



## neSSa

This project is not funded by sponsors, everything is personal staged by both hardware and production of all additional parts, full of gratitude I have my brother to aid in decisions about visualization and making the whole project!

This computer consists of the following components:

Asus Maximus V Extreme (motherboard)
Intel i7 3770K O.C. / 4,6GHz / 1,29v (processor)
4 x Asus Radeon HD 7970 DC2T (graphics card)
GEIL Evo Two 4 x 4GB / 2666Ghz (RAM)
2 x EVGA 1000w G2 (PSU - power supply)
Intel 335 series 240GB (SSD)
4TB HDD (2TB + 2x1TB)

Cooling:

EK-WB Supremasy CPU cooler
4 x Full cover EK-WB HD7970 waterblock
2 x Swiftech Laing D5 pump (pump for water cooling)
XSPC dual bay reservoir (tank)
EC and WB XSPC fittings 19/13 (total ~ 30pcs)
Taygoon and Masteklear hose for water cooling 19 / 13mm
Phobya radiator 240v2
2xPhobya 360v2 radiator
8xCooler Master Syckleflow RED 120mm fans

What is the most important all of this is packed and for the first time in this manner shown in the "DimasTech" bench table and the bottom part is DimasTech V3 which is housed cooling and PSU, while the upper part is DimasTech HARD and it is set up hardware!

Side uprights are constructed from 3mm aluminum, while the frontal cover and radiator grills of 3mm black plexiglass. The switch to start the computer is VANDAL.

For sleeve cables used MDPC exceptional quality!

SS PC modding - neSSa


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not too shabby


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> This project is not funded by sponsors, everything is personal staged by both hardware and production of all additional parts, full of gratitude I have my brother to aid in decisions about visualization and making the whole project!
> 
> This computer consists of the following components:
> 
> Asus Maximus V Extreme (motherboard)
> Intel i7 3770K O.C. / 4,6GHz / 1,29v (processor)
> 4 x Asus Radeon HD 7970 DC2T (graphics card)
> GEIL Evo Two 4 x 4GB / 2666Ghz (RAM)
> 2 x EVGA 1000w G2 (PSU - power supply)
> Intel 335 series 240GB (SSD)
> 4TB HDD (2TB + 2x1TB)
> 
> Cooling:
> 
> EK-WB Supremasy CPU cooler
> 4 x Full cover EK-WB HD7970 waterblock
> 2 x Swiftech Laing D5 pump (pump for water cooling)
> XSPC dual bay reservoir (tank)
> EC and WB XSPC fittings 19/13 (total ~ 30pcs)
> Taygoon and Masteklear hose for water cooling 19 / 13mm
> Phobya radiator 240v2
> 2xPhobya 360v2 radiator
> 8xCooler Master Syckleflow RED 120mm fans
> 
> What is the most important all of this is packed and for the first time in this manner shown in the "DimasTech" bench table and the bottom part is DimasTech V3 which is housed cooling and PSU, while the upper part is DimasTech HARD and it is set up hardware!
> 
> Side uprights are constructed from 3mm aluminum, while the frontal cover and radiator grills of 3mm black plexiglass. The switch to start the computer is VANDAL.
> 
> For sleeve cables used MDPC exceptional quality!
> 
> SS PC modding - neSSa
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How does that work having both the in and out tubing connected to the same end of the bridge? Seems like the water would just flow through the bottom card only.


----------



## neSSa

This bridge is parallel


----------



## Angrychair

That looks fantastic


----------



## vmatt1203

Anyone used or have comments on the Swiftech 90° Dual Swivel Elbow Lok-Seal™ adapters before? They only got 1.5 stars on ST website but got great reviews on NCIX. Just got 2 of those and some of the Thermaltake swivel 40-90 degree ones as well for my new loop. Would like to avoid a leak prior to testing if possible.

http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Dual-Swivel-Elbow-adapter-1.aspx

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106320&cm_re=thermaltake_fiitting-_-35-106-320-_-Product


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vmatt1203*
> 
> Anyone used or have comments on the Swiftech 90° Dual Swivel Elbow Lok-Seal™ adapters before? They only got 1.5 stars on ST website but got great reviews on NCIX. Just got 2 of those and some of the Thermaltake swivel 40-90 degree ones as well for my new loop. Would like to avoid a leak prior to testing if possible.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Dual-Swivel-Elbow-adapter-1.aspx
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106320&cm_re=thermaltake_fiitting-_-35-106-320-_-Product


I have used a few with no drama,a nice looking body too.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> T
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> his project is not funded by sponsors, everything is personal staged by both hardware and production of all additional parts, full of gratitude I have my brother to aid in decisions about visualization and making the whole project!
> 
> This computer consists of the following components:
> 
> Asus Maximus V Extreme (motherboard)
> Intel i7 3770K O.C. / 4,6GHz / 1,29v (processor)
> 4 x Asus Radeon HD 7970 DC2T (graphics card)
> GEIL Evo Two 4 x 4GB / 2666Ghz (RAM)
> 2 x EVGA 1000w G2 (PSU - power supply)
> Intel 335 series 240GB (SSD)
> 4TB HDD (2TB + 2x1TB)
> 
> Cooling:
> 
> EK-WB Supremasy CPU cooler
> 4 x Full cover EK-WB HD7970 waterblock
> 2 x Swiftech Laing D5 pump (pump for water cooling)
> XSPC dual bay reservoir (tank)
> EC and WB XSPC fittings 19/13 (total ~ 30pcs)
> Taygoon and Masteklear hose for water cooling 19 / 13mm
> Phobya radiator 240v2
> 2xPhobya 360v2 radiator
> 8xCooler Master Syckleflow RED 120mm fans
> 
> 
> 
> What is the most important all of this is packed and for the first time in this manner shown in the "DimasTech" bench table and the bottom part is DimasTech V3 which is housed cooling and PSU, while the upper part is DimasTech HARD and it is set up hardware!
> 
> Side uprights are constructed from 3mm aluminum, while the frontal cover and radiator grills of 3mm black plexiglass. The switch to start the computer is VANDAL.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> For sleeve cables used MDPC exceptional quality!
> 
> SS PC modding - neSSa


I REALLY like the look of the tilted Dimastech Hard bench set on top of the Easy V3.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah that setup looks awesome. Would like to see a closeup of that SLi setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## neSSa

It's not SLI, quad CF of 7970dc2t


----------



## guitarhero23

Where can I find the cheapest White Sleeved Sata Data cable. I only want to buy the Bitfenix ones at $10 a pop at Newegg if I have to.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Where can I find the cheapest White Sleeved Sata Data cable. I only want to buy the Bitfenix ones at $10 a pop at Newegg if I have to.


just don't buy any variation of this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11061/cab-254/ModRight_CableRight_Single_Braid_4-Pin_Molex_Fan_Extension_-_White.html?id=JZcJ8nY4&mv_pc=423

it looks like an orange net



and feels cheap and looks horrible. Just don't waste your money on any modright sleeved cable.


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> just don't buy any variation of this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11061/cab-254/ModRight_CableRight_Single_Braid_4-Pin_Molex_Fan_Extension_-_White.html?id=JZcJ8nY4&mv_pc=423
> 
> it looks like an orange net
> 
> 
> 
> and feels cheap and looks horrible. Just don't waste your money on any modright sleeved cable.


Oh god that's funny







:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> just don't buy any variation of this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11061/cab-254/ModRight_CableRight_Single_Braid_4-Pin_Molex_Fan_Extension_-_White.html?id=JZcJ8nY4&mv_pc=423
> 
> it looks like an orange net
> 
> 
> 
> and feels cheap and looks horrible. Just don't waste your money on any modright sleeved cable.


Thanks for that Info! Wouldn't have known otherwise and glad someone said something.

TCO


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's what I figured, just a group o'trolls on a FB group
> Definitely wanted to reach through the monitor on them lol


Seriously, I think it looks unique, definitely caught my attention. Plus, love what you have done so far with case.

Me on the other hand I am still far off where I want to modify my case into. At least I got my lazy butt to put the acrylic panel on the side panel.
On the other hand, wooooo tax return in a few days! Finally, I can get some more eLoop fans, and hopefully a few sleeved cables for the rig.

Still, sure looking better than its previous look.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> It's not SLI, quad CF of 7970dc2t


Potato/Potatoe.









~Ceadder


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> This project is not funded by sponsors, everything is personal staged by both hardware and production of all additional parts, full of gratitude I have my brother to aid in decisions about visualization and making the whole project!
> 
> This computer consists of the following components:
> 
> Asus Maximus V Extreme (motherboard)
> Intel i7 3770K O.C. / 4,6GHz / 1,29v (processor)
> 4 x Asus Radeon HD 7970 DC2T (graphics card)
> GEIL Evo Two 4 x 4GB / 2666Ghz (RAM)
> 2 x EVGA 1000w G2 (PSU - power supply)
> Intel 335 series 240GB (SSD)
> 4TB HDD (2TB + 2x1TB)
> 
> Cooling:
> 
> EK-WB Supremasy CPU cooler
> 4 x Full cover EK-WB HD7970 waterblock
> 2 x Swiftech Laing D5 pump (pump for water cooling)
> XSPC dual bay reservoir (tank)
> EC and WB XSPC fittings 19/13 (total ~ 30pcs)
> Taygoon and Masteklear hose for water cooling 19 / 13mm
> Phobya radiator 240v2
> 2xPhobya 360v2 radiator
> 8xCooler Master Syckleflow RED 120mm fans
> 
> What is the most important all of this is packed and for the first time in this manner shown in the "DimasTech" bench table and the bottom part is DimasTech V3 which is housed cooling and PSU, while the upper part is DimasTech HARD and it is set up hardware!
> 
> Side uprights are constructed from 3mm aluminum, while the frontal cover and radiator grills of 3mm black plexiglass. The switch to start the computer is VANDAL.
> 
> For sleeve cables used MDPC exceptional quality!
> 
> SS PC modding - neSSa






Nice! I had planned something similar, never got around to buying the easy though love the accents I was just gonna use plexi and LEDs on the logo myself I really like the paneling, itd look sexy on top of my RH desk lol


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Seriously, I think it looks unique, definitely caught my attention. Plus, love what you have done so far with case.
> 
> Me on the other hand I am still far off where I want to modify my case into. At least I got my lazy butt to put the acrylic panel on the side panel.
> On the other hand, wooooo tax return in a few days! Finally, I can get some more eLoop fans, and hopefully a few sleeved cables for the rig.
> 
> Still, sure looking better than its previous look.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the LARGE window.







Too few large windows. Seems most people consider hard drive cages to be the Medusas's head of PC's. They don't bother me, and having a large window gives you options on where to put the reservoir and still have it visible. What did you use to cut and paint the side panel? I did a window mod on my Antec 1100 V2 case but I just had to cut a new window piece to replace the original. Didn't have to cut any metal. I am thinking of converting from a bay reservoir to a Tube style, and putting in a small window in the HDD cage area though.

Edit: Lol, I just noticed something else from your pics, look familiar?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Love the LARGE window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too few large windows. Seems most people consider hard drive cages to be the Medusas's head of PC's. They don't bother me, and having a large window gives you options on where to put the reservoir and still have it visible. What did you use to cut and paint the side panel? I did a window mod on my Antec 1100 V2 case but I just had to cut a new window piece to replace the original. Didn't have to cut any metal. I am thinking of converting from a bay reservoir to a Tube style, and putting in a small window in the HDD cage area though.
> 
> Edit: Lol, I just noticed something else from your pics, look familiar?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hehe, my mom got a thing for rugs, but the small ones are a pain to vacuum. Considering my Kirby vacuum will pull up a small rug and won't put the rug back down when I try moving the vacuum cleaner.

I had a metal shop cut the side out for me. Did the painting myself though, used sandpaper on the original paint then took white spray paint and matte clear coat over it. Just used super glue to put the acrylic panel onto the side panel. Plus, the top bay I have plans for, got to finish cutting a piece of metal for my SSD mount plate I plan to put on the side of it. Like I said, I am still ways off from finishing this rig. Going to be a ball once I get the rest of the parts I need to mount a 915F to the bottom of the case.









Only thing is, still trying to figure out where I going to hide my 3TB HDDs at.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Love the LARGE window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too few large windows. Seems most people consider hard drive cages to be the Medusas's head of PC's. They don't bother me, and having a large window gives you options on where to put the reservoir and still have it visible. What did you use to cut and paint the side panel? I did a window mod on my Antec 1100 V2 case but I just had to cut a new window piece to replace the original. Didn't have to cut any metal. I am thinking of converting from a bay reservoir to a Tube style, and putting in a small window in the HDD cage area though.


Hey where did you get that side panel I need one for my haf x case?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Hey where did you get that side panel I need one for my haf x case?


Custom? unless the 932 be fits or something? Where's Ceaderman when you need him....


----------



## jon666

Still no big drops in performance in my choice of the Home Depot tubing I went with. Plasticiser might become an issue eventually, my tubign clouded up but hasn't gotten any worse. Kinda wish I didn't go with uni blocks for GPU's, but money talks, and my money cried when I thought about it. Only familiar with swiftech at this point, Pump has yet to offer any issues with my pump, res, rad combo+ one more res just because it probably wasn't necessary but the small sale was enough for me to bite on it.

Only worried about Swiftechs newest CPU block. I don't think they have offered anything newer since I bought it, but I am confident I can manufacter something on my onwn that allows me to keep using it on next CPU upgrade.

I might gain a degree or two if I change tubing and clean out the plastiser gunk, but at this point I see no negatives. RAM seems happy with both side panels off, and GPU vrms seem happy with fan pointed at them, am I missing something with my build if I am only interested in overclocking? I have strong airflow in my case, and through radiotars. Full cover blocks on my 7870's might help, but I am not sure how much that would add vs strong airflow. Anyone have any data to throw in to help me out with?


----------



## pc-illiterate

well jon, not data you were looking for but, you shouldve gone with ek uni blocks for the gpus. i was informed swiftech will proba, here just read. very disappointing.

I have to inform you that due to a dramatic decline in interest in those universal blocks we have no plans at this time to make them compatible with the 290(X) cards and might also be looking at discontinuing them altogether. I'm very sorry about this and I hope that this answers your question.

Regards,
BramSLI1 some swiftech rep

do you have enough time left to return them?


----------



## Turbz

So this is what the watercooling thread looks like during US night time.


----------



## wermad

I've seen it go way off topic during holiday down time.....good times


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Still no big drops in performance in my choice of the Home Depot tubing I went with. Plasticiser might become an issue eventually, my tubign clouded up but hasn't gotten any worse. Kinda wish I didn't go with uni blocks for GPU's, but money talks, and my money cried when I thought about it. Only familiar with swiftech at this point, Pump has yet to offer any issues with my pump, res, rad combo+ one more res just because it probably wasn't necessary but the small sale was enough for me to bite on it.
> 
> Only worried about Swiftechs newest CPU block. I don't think they have offered anything newer since I bought it, but I am confident I can manufacter something on my onwn that allows me to keep using it on next CPU upgrade.
> 
> I might gain a degree or two if I change tubing and clean out the plastiser gunk, but at this point I see no negatives. RAM seems happy with both side panels off, and GPU vrms seem happy with fan pointed at them, am I missing something with my build if I am only interested in overclocking? I have strong airflow in my case, and through radiotars. Full cover blocks on my 7870's might help, but I am not sure how much that would add vs strong airflow. Anyone have any data to throw in to help me out with?


Go buy some primochill advanced lrt man...that plasticizers is going to ruin your blocks, rad and pump. You may be saving a few bucks in the shirt run but your going to probably ruin hundreds of dollars worth or equiptment. Plus advanced lrt comes in a bunch of different colors or clear and imo is the best soft tubing you can buy and we'll worth the money and you will probably get atleast two builds out of 1 package, I got three. Idk if you plan to keep your parts or care but I'm just saying 25 bucks now to save you hundreds in the long run seems like a no brainer and I think we're one else will agree with me on this. Don't cheap out on your watercooling.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Custom? unless the 932 be fits or something? Where's Ceaderman when you need him....


Well I know they sell them. Frozen cpu haf them but obviously they are no longer in buisness so.... I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction...I would just cut it out myself but I don't feel confident enough in my Dremel abilities quite yet and don't want to take the chance I mess it up then I'm out a $100 side panel. I found the case in the trash and it was missing the front panel and drive bag covers and that cost me 20 bucks so I've only got that into the case I wouldn't mind spending 50 bucks on a windowed panel, if anyone here has one maybe?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just got bashed for my loop in the r.c70 strange thing is I don't see what's wrong with it (no kinks , temps are good) said group stated it was a mess and that I should only have straight concise runs, even tough I'm running soft tubing in it


If we let popular opinion dictate our builds we would all have monochromatic builds with a max of two colors, perfectly straight rigid tubing, low RPM fans, internal rads, nothing too "gamey", lian li cases, no optical drives, and only stereo headsets. Ughh, might as well get a beige tower. No you obviously know what your doing and you created a unique look. I tried experimenting with the twisted tubes, but it didn't look right with my build, maybe because I have straight racing stripes on the side of case. I think I looks pretty sweet. Keep it up and don't listen to that non-sense.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Well I know they sell them. Frozen cpu haf them but obviously they are no longer in buisness so.... I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction...I would just cut it out myself but I don't feel confident enough in my Dremel abilities quite yet and don't want to take the chance I mess it up then I'm out a $100 side panel. I found the case in the trash and it was missing the front panel and drive bag covers and that cost me 20 bucks so I've only got that into the case I wouldn't mind spending 50 bucks on a windowed panel, if anyone here has one maybe?


If you don't mind using U-channel the cut doesn't have to be perfect or even very good as the rubber will hide it.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> If you don't mind using U-channel the cut doesn't have to be perfect or even very good as the rubber will hide it.


Well I was really hoping to not have to go thst route but I guess if I can't find a panel I'll have to. Anyway you could link me a good kit with the window and u channel included? Please and thank you all the ones I've seen look like garbage and I spent alot of time on this build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Hey where did you get that side panel I need one for my haf x case?
> 
> 
> 
> Custom? unless the 932 be fits or something? Where's Ceaderman when you need him....
Click to expand...

Someone mention my name?









You can indeed use a 932 door on the X. Cooler Master sells them in their store. They interchange just fine. I am carving mine up to fit Radiators.









~Ceadder


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Someone mention my name?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can indeed use a 932 door on the X. Cooler Master sells them in their store. They interchange just fine. I am carving mine up to fit Radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Wow really your sure I could use the had 932 door on it? Deffinatly will go buy one how much do they run from cooler master?


----------



## wermad

http://www.cmstore-usa.com/parts-replacements/


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.cmstore-usa.com/parts-replacements/


Wow thank a million it's only 20 bucks too that's awsome! I hate that it says haf 932 on it but noting a little paint can't take care of.


----------



## ozzy1925

good news! frozencpu will be re- opening soon
https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom?fref=nf


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> good news! frozencpu will be re- opening soon
> https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom?fref=nf


Looks interesting Love to know the real story but in all honesty I support Chinese sweat factories so I why should I worry about the behind the scenes in FCPU if they deliver the goods.


----------



## Ramzinho

I'm so so so glad FPU is coming back to business. I love their prices, and the fact that i can directly use my CC instead of paypal which is a butthurt to use in my country.. Good Luck Guys


----------



## Wolfsbora

This is all that I will add to this conversation as there was a thread for venting regarding FCPU. They were always my preferred store for ordering parts. FCPU was reliable, fast, and very kind if I needed to speak to someone. With that said, what the owner did to his very dedicated employees is unacceptable and despicable. The only possible way that they will receive my business is if he seeks serious help (again) and makes things right with the employees he fired. Addiction is a disease, but you need to want to get help for yourself. That community was directly affected by his behavior. Until then, PPCs will get the bulk of my business.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Youre right, someone who can go off his rocker and trash the place and have multiple different employees and sources tell a similar story and photo evidence of said trashing of the place was probably all a hoax.
> 
> I'll order from them if they have something in stock ppc doesn't. Otherwise I won't. Just my opinion, I won't stop you from ordering.


I didn't say it was a hoax, don't put words in my mouth. The point that I was making is it's his business and he can do whatever he likes with it. So long as he plays fair with anything I happen to order in the future, I really don't care. If you do care, do your business somewhere else. That's the beauty of the free market.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


WAS IT YOU?!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> WAS IT YOU?!










No. Kinda







Poking fun at PPC.

I have 980s EVGA SC

The Cautious One


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyways, to stay on topic, just put in a nice order at PPC for every last water cooling component I need besides the Bitspower 970 block I wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but they are sold out as of like 3-4 days ago. Anyone know how often they usually get items back in stock? I'm sure it "depends" but any averages?


It depends on when they ran out. If they ran out the same day you put the order in (as long as it isn't Friday/Saturday, you'll probably see them restocked rather quickly. Also, they most likely wait until they need multiple components restocked to make the shipping cost effective.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I hope FCPU get going again as Hank at PPCs doesn't deserve your money.....


Just bought a bunch of stuff from PPCs, and they changed my shipping to 2-day shipping so it arrives on Saturday instead of Monday. Why ya hating?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I got my bp 970 strix block from DazMode since the rule were the only ones to have it when I ordered it


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> It depends on when they ran out. If they ran out the same day you put the order in (as long as it isn't Friday/Saturday, you'll probably see them restocked rather quickly. Also, they most likely wait until they need multiple components restocked to make the shipping cost effective.


Well I took it out of my cart because I didn't want any issues with them holding my order or anything like that. It's been out of stock for like 3-4 days, just ordered the rest minus that today


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Well I took it out of my cart because I didn't want any issues with them holding my order or anything like that. It's been out of stock for like 3-4 days, just ordered the rest minus that today


I hope you can get it soon. Nothing like having to wait on one part to start your build. I'll keep an eye out for you.


----------



## Ramzinho

I would use PPCs in a heart beat if they accepted international CCs. Using paypal is kinda difficult to me as it only works with debit cards here. so i've to add funds to it and then wait.. even then they wont ship except to the verified address. if i want to buy a 20$ item .. it would cost me like 40$ shipping. but if i use my forward serve it will cost me like 10$ to get it shipped with tracking and all.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> are you sure you can use PCIe slot 1 and 4 for doing dual GPU ? or is it different with crossfire? cause i think SLI with these 2 slots wont work since fourth is pcie 4x


He's just put the cards in there like that for the photo.

If you check his build log you will see his motherboard tray only has 4 expansion slots, so it cannot be the intention to run them in the 1st and 4th PCIe slot.


----------



## szeged

anyone know where i can buy a set of h100i lga2011 mounting screws? somehow managed to lose mine -_-


----------



## changboy

I use EK blood red liquid cooling with PrimoChill PRIMOFLEX™ Advanced LRT™ Crystal Clear so do you have some advise for me about how mutch time before change my liquid ?

I put this liquid in january 2015 so its new and i already bought another 2 bottle for change it. EK say to change it each year or before.

Do you think its better use another liquid or this EK is good.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone know where i can buy a set of h100i lga2011 mounting screws? somehow managed to lose mine -_-


http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-intel-lga-1155-1156-1366-2011-mounting-bracket-kit


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone know where i can buy a set of h100i lga2011 mounting screws? somehow managed to lose mine -_-


Not that this helps, but I'd send you them from my H80i if I still had them. Looks like Ramzinho's got you covered though. Corsair is great for replacement parts. If they don't list the part on the site they'll usually still hook you up.


----------



## szeged

i checked the corsair site already, all of the places it says to buy from only sell the h100i, not seperate mounting gear =\

however i do have an idea that might work, i still have some screws for socket 2011 from an old xspc block i had, also have some wingnuts from my ln2 pot, and lots of washers...ghetto inc.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Made an order last weekend on PPCs, it finally shipped out today. Does it seem unreasonable for a pretty basic order, Mayhems Pastel Red, Mayhems Blitz kit, and some primochill rigid tubing, to take a 4 days to process. It should get here next week. I can not wait, since that is also when my Rocket Science fittings are coming aswell.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i checked the corsair site already, all of the places it says to buy from only sell the h100i, not seperate mounting gear =\
> 
> however i do have an idea that might work, i still have some screws for socket 2011 from an old xspc block i had, also have some wingnuts from my ln2 pot, and lots of washers...ghetto inc.


ebay - CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i CPU Cooler Mounting Hardware and Cables - Buy it now for $29.99 + $6 expedited shipping. Might be worth it depending on how bad you need it!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i checked the corsair site already, all of the places it says to buy from only sell the h100i, not seperate mounting gear =\
> 
> however i do have an idea that might work, i still have some screws for socket 2011 from an old xspc block i had, also have some wingnuts from my ln2 pot, and lots of washers...ghetto inc.


I didn't know they have no shipping to the States. You can PM corsair George.. i'm 100% sure he will be glad to help.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i checked the corsair site already, all of the places it says to buy from only sell the h100i, not seperate mounting gear =\
> 
> however i do have an idea that might work, i still have some screws for socket 2011 from an old xspc block i had, also have some wingnuts from my ln2 pot, and lots of washers...ghetto inc.


Would just try to use that imo.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I use ek mounting hardware. Its a tight squeeze one 1150 but 2011 is easy

Why doesnt performance deserve our money when mark literally is saying, if you want us to reopen donate money for legal defens3.
He obviously did something. cops dont come to u unless you do something esp. Sheriff. I dont know how anyone can trust anything he says about this. All his employees left and hes saying everythingnpossible to place the blame on everyone else but himself

Aside from that ppcs always has stock issues they sell out fast as they dont get as large of quantities. From what i can tell.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Hey guys,

Going to try and RMA my dead Sapphire R9 290. Very generously MrWhiteRX7 has said he is going to ship me a r9 290 reference cooler he had no use for. Cant thank him enough! Now i am on the hunt for screws to attach the reference cooler to my r9 290. I picked this up on craigslist with a GELID cooler, and killed it tightening my CLC on too tight







Being I got it used (I actually do have the receipt) I don't have any of the stock screws. Could anyone provide info on the stock screw size/thread? Or where i could get some







I need all back and the 2 IO screws. Thanks a bunch in advance.









(I am aware of sapphires warranty policy but IMO its worth trying. The worst they could say is no)


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> I use EK blood red liquid cooling with PrimoChill PRIMOFLEX™ Advanced LRT™ Crystal Clear so do you have some advise for me about how mutch time before change my liquid ?
> 
> I put this liquid in january 2015 so its new and i already bought another 2 bottle for change it. EK say to change it each year or before.
> 
> Do you think its better use another liquid or this EK is good


If performance remains the same i cant imagine more than once a year is necessary. Head over to mayhems user thread since mayhems makes the coolant for ek but you should be good for a while


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I hope FCPU get going again as Hank at PPCs doesn't deserve your money.....
> 
> 
> 
> I think that's pretty unfair. I've ordered probably close to 2k from PPC over the last year and a half and never had an issue.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I hope FCPU get going again as Hank at PPCs doesn't deserve your money.....
> 
> 
> 
> that's an utterly aggressive thing to say B.. didn't expect you to be on the hate train :S.. i'm confused mate. unless you are being sarcastic.
Click to expand...

Things happen behind the scenes in the watercooling world......

Its not ungrounded dislike and its purely on Hank rather than PPC's.

Ram,its not aggression,just mutual dislike.


----------



## snef

test for color match


with gold screws


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I hope you can get it soon. Nothing like having to wait on one part to start your build. I'll keep an eye out for you.


You rock


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Why didnt you get the fittings done too?


----------



## snef

because fittings are aluminum....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> because fittings are aluminum....


You can plate Alu tho.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Thats lame, why does watercooling have to be such a shady business?
I liked ppcs they packed the everloving crap out of my order, aside from phill never getting back to me about the mod work my experience with them was astounding


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Thats lame, *why does watercooling have to be such a shady business?*
> I liked ppcs they packed the everloving crap out of my order, aside from phill never getting back to me about the mod work my experience with them was astounding


Dude...if only you knew.

Bundy has some great stories of his experiences too,some things beggar belief!

How about prototype rads being stolen from hotel rooms? It happened.......


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't really get the PPCs hate myself. Just ordered early yesterday morning (2am pst) and already have confirmation and tracking number from them this morning fFedEx ground.

I went that route cause their quote system sucks. I get that their CSrv is a royal pita at times, but they have always come correct when I have had an issue.









Well should see FedEx by next Saturday at the latest.









~Ceadder


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Jeez, who did that happen to? That sounds like too fake to be false. But something someone who didnt do their job might also say.

Just i dont remember much but i definitely know this sort of stuff has happened. Like aegis pc, the red harbinger desks only 10 of 150 had all the parts...
Alot has to do with how hard it is to get things manufactured as far as i can tell, but there are the most ridiculous stories in this hobby.

Atleast we arent pro drifting, they get their trailers stolen often and they can add up to 500k fast. Multiple built engines, 3 sets of 2500$A rim rims
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Personally wouldn't care if the Parts I ordered were stuck in a Stripper's @$$ and then done Cocaine off of. As long as they are the right ones that I needed and the company had good stock.
> 
> The Cautious One


i can understand stock issues, how many people buy this stuff at all like maybe 100 realistically, i just dont think itd be easy to stock everything in quantities for 5 people to build the same pc, which is more or less what happens when a mew product launches, different color tubing or fluid but its the same blocks fittings and etc


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't really get the PPCs hate myself. Just ordered early yesterday morning (2am pst) and already have confirmation and tracking number from them this morning fFedEx ground.
> 
> I went that route cause their quote system sucks. I get that their CSrv is a royal pita at times, but they have always come correct when I have had an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well should see FedEx by next Saturday at the latest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have to ask,why are you spending money on blocks when you have blocks already for cards that would be,to my mind,the first thing to replace?

Im genuinely curious,nothing meant by it before the indignant crowd respond...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Who you calling indignant







lol


----------



## Vintage

Aren't aluminium fittings a concern for corrosion? Ofc you should use a corrosion blocker but I would feel a lot safer with brass plated.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Aren't aluminium fittings a concern for corrosion? Ofc you should use a corrosion blocker but I would feel a lot safer with brass plated.


The aluminum is in electrical contact but has no electrolyte therefore no corrosion.

Aluminum waterside is a very real problem.


----------



## wermad

Today is the last day of the Saint Patty's discount at ppcs.com btw folks:
Quote:


> Wishing you the many wonderful things that an Irish blessing will bring. Happiness, joy, love, and laughter, may your day be content and may you smile happily ever after! Happy St. Patrick's Day! And if it comes up a bit short here are some coupons to help you save you some cash! Also, check out some of the new offerings here at Performance-PCs.com. So grab a green beer or two and Enjoy the Holiday!
> 
> Spend $50 or more and get 7% off: "STPATTY15-7"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from March 16th 2014 through March 20th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


Still debating on getting my order in....


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I buy all my blocks i can second hands
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This is the Key product here that everyone will need. This is what I want. I wouldn't mind if some of those white bitspower Fittings I need had a little extra white powder reside left over in them... Thats all I am saying.
> 
> The Cautious One


yeah they didnt have enough bp quick compressions for me or the uv blue mayhems liquid.. but frozen didn't have them either so..
its just annoying that buy the time my pc is finished there is new better hardware about to be out...

lol i have 780Ti KPE and now the titan X is where I should be xD


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I got all my Primochill Ghost fittings 2nd hand (they were all still new and sealed in the boxes as well) so now I should have enough for my build. Of course now that I've stated that I'll need more







lol


----------



## RingingEars

Geeze, you think WCing is shady try audio cables...








I'm really sorry to hear about FCPU issues. I've always had good dealings with them. I placed a pretty big order with them a couple years ago and a gentleman from their shop called me to tell me they were out of an item. He made a few suggestions and helped me come up with another game plan for my loop. Very helpful.
I hope it all works out for them...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Hey where did you get that side panel I need one for my haf x case?


If you talking about mine in the picture. I had a metal shop cut the regular side panel to allow a bigger window, then glued a new piece of acrylic on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Today is the last day of the Saint Patty's discount at ppcs.com btw folks:
> Still debating on getting my order in....


Wooh nellie, did not know they had a discount going on. Hmmm, probably should nab me some eLoops then since I still need quite a bit more.

Ok, what is up with their website, having no luck loading it.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I buy all my blocks i can second hands
> yeah they didnt have enough bp quick compressions for me or the uv blue mayhems liquid.. but frozen didn't have them either so..
> its just annoying that buy the time my pc is finished there is new better hardware about to be out...
> 
> lol i have 780Ti KPE and now the titan X is where I should be xD


I know this isn't exactly on topic but I've been ordering to the US from aquatuning. Shipping isn't any higher than ppcs, the dollar has gained on the euro and th3 prices are good enough to make it worthwhile if they have everything you need on an order.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I think I need to revist an old friend......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Wooh nellie, did not know they had a discount going on. Hmmm, probably should nab me some eLoops then since I still need quite a bit more.
> 
> Ok, what is up with their website, having no luck loading it.


It can get wacky but just keep refreshing or try a bit later. They're EST, so keep that mind if you plan to place your order today. I'm have my cart ready but not sure if plumbing the motherboards "liquid pipe" is worth the extra cost


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Wooh nellie, did not know they had a discount going on. Hmmm, probably should nab me some eLoops then since I still need quite a bit more.
> 
> Ok, what is up with their website, having no luck loading it.
> 
> 
> 
> It can get wacky but just keep refreshing or try a bit later. They're EST, so keep that mind if you plan to place your order today. I'm have my cart ready but not sure if plumbing the motherboards "liquid pipe" is worth the extra cost
Click to expand...

Probably not......im dubious of those 'features' on boards anyway.


----------



## MrGrievous

Has anyone here ordered a Alphacool radiator recently? I bought 240 monsta last week and I feel they stepped up the quality of their rads lately or something. The 420 xt45 I have that I bought 9 months ago differs quite a bit from the new monsta. For one the fins one the monsta are louvered where my 420 xt is not. Plus I also ordered a blitz pro kit to go with the monsta and when I dumped part one out into a beaker it was just as clear as when I put it in minus a few bits of flux that came out.


----------



## LandonAaron

I am looking for an internal PWM fan controller that will allow me to use software to control fan speeds. Something like the NZXT Grid+ but that uses PWM instead of voltage regulation. I have an MCP50X that I want to be able to adjust the speed on. When connected to my ASUS Maximus VII Hero motherboard the fan controller software doesn't recognize it. I can control it by connecting it to the CPU_OPT fan header and having it just mirror the CPU fan speeds, but this less than ideal, as I want to be able to run the CPU fans (radiator fans) full speed and the pump at a lower speed, as the pump is very loud at full speed. Currently my only options is the CPU_OPT fan header or to connect it to one of my video cards using something like this:



but then it will be tied to the GPU's temperature and I think the lowest speed MSIAB will allow is 18%.

Suggestions welcome.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I am looking for an internal PWM fan controller that will allow me to use software to control fan speeds. Something like the NZXT Grid+ but that uses PWM instead of voltage regulation. I have an MCP50X that I want to be able to adjust the speed on. When connected to my ASUS Maximus VII Hero motherboard the fan controller software doesn't recognize it. I can control it by connecting it to the CPU_OPT fan header and having it just mirror the CPU fan speeds, but this less than ideal, as I want to be able to run the CPU fans (radiator fans) full speed and the pump at a lower speed, as the pump is very loud at full speed. Currently my only options is the CPU_OPT fan header or to connect it to one of my video cards using something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> but then it will be tied to the GPU's temperature and I think the lowest speed MSIAB will allow is 18%.
> 
> Suggestions welcome.


very few fan controllers in the market have true pwm capability. If you need just one channel of pwm the Aquaero 5 lt could be a good buy. But if you need more you would need an AQ 6. Straight from Europe you can get one for around 150 US$ + shipping from Aquacomputer shop. From PPC is going for US$ 220 last tiem I checked. The only other controllers with PWM I am aware off are Zalman and the company no longer exists (at least was the latest news I had that they file for bankruptcy).


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It can get wacky but just keep refreshing or try a bit later. They're EST, so keep that mind if you plan to place your order today. I'm have my cart ready but not sure if plumbing the motherboards "liquid pipe" is worth the extra cost


The board already has the blocks right, so all you need is two fittings? Seems like a no brainier to me. Just for the aesthetics if nothing else.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> The board already has the blocks right, so all you need is two fittings? Seems like a no brainier to me. Just for the aesthetics if nothing else.


It's a copper pipe with g1/4 threads. It's mainly for esthetics tbh.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> very few fan controllers in the market have true pwm capability. If you need just one channel of pwm the Aquaero 5 lt could be a good buy. But if you need more you would need an AQ 6. Straight from Europe you can get one for around 150 US$ + shipping from Aquacomputer shop. From PPC is going for US$ 220 last tiem I checked. The only other controllers with PWM I am aware off are Zalman and the company no longer exists (at least was the latest news I had that they file for bankruptcy).


Thanks, but that's out of my price range. Is it safe to use voltage regulation on a pump like the MCP50X?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Thanks, but that's out of my price range. Is it safe to use voltage regulation on a pump like the MCP50X?


No, because voltage regulation won't work anyway because of how these are designed. The PWM connector doesn't provide any power. It's just a ground and PWM signal wire. You couldn't use voltage regulation if you wanted to.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, because voltage regulation won't work anyway because of how these are designed. The PWM connector doesn't provide any power. It's just a ground and PWM signal wire. You couldn't use voltage regulation if you wanted to.


No I am talking about cutting off the sata plug and soldering on a regular fan plug on there, then connecting it to a fan controller. I wouldn't be connecting the PWM cable in this scenario.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> No I am talking about cutting off the sata plug and soldering on a regular fan plug on there, then connecting it to a fan controller. I wouldn't be connecting the PWM cable in this scenario.


According to our engineer who designed these, that won't work either. This pump draws too much current for a fan header to handle it and the motor wasn't designed for voltage regulation either.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't really get the PPCs hate myself. Just ordered early yesterday morning (2am pst) and already have confirmation and tracking number from them this morning fFedEx ground.
> 
> I went that route cause their quote system sucks. I get that their CSrv is a royal pita at times, but they have always come correct when I have had an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well should see FedEx by next Saturday at the latest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to ask,why are you spending money on blocks when you have blocks already for cards that would be,to my mind,the first thing to replace?
> 
> Im genuinely curious,nothing meant by it before the indignant crowd respond...
Click to expand...

I got the blocks for future uses. Yeah the HSinks are limited to what I have but I have never beenot a fan of the little hs modules. They also tie in with my Darkside theme. Would love it if EK took over mfring GPU heatsinks Tbh. Since they get cards beforehand, it makes sense.

As for why blocks, before other things... well PPCs is oos of a few things that I need and with a kid otw I am budgeting the bu I'll. Which means upgrading a non factor for a bit. I will likely stay with my GPU setup until 3** series launches.









~Ceadder


----------



## tatmMRKIV

4pin press n lok amp connectors are good for like 5A?

I'd like to hear more for just technical coolness. I have a vcontrold5 and also some other things I have been voltage controlling, and I will say they don't always go quite as you like.

since startup is 7v on some things and they are 12V max not much controll for instance
but I have a d5 strong thats made for 8v-24v and havent ben able to get anything higher than 18v


----------



## Ithanul

Dang it, forgot, FrozenCPU was where I last time grabbed my eLoops. PerformancePC don't even carry the ones I need.

Anyone know of any other place that may sell the Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Dang it, forgot, FrozenCPU was where I last time grabbed my eLoops. PerformancePC don't even carry the ones I need.
> 
> Anyone know of any other place that may sell the Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P?


Amazon has them available from various sellers.

Edit: These are the B12-P*S* model. Not sure of the difference.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol you have to be very careful with e-loops those letters tell you fan speed and/or pwm I'm not sure which ones are which


----------



## wermad

How loud are the 2400 non-pwm?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lol you have to be very careful with e-loops those letters tell you fan speed and/or pwm I'm not sure which ones are which


I believe they are both PWM actually. From what I can see, the P is 800 - 2000RPM and the PS is 400 - 1500RPM.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How loud are the 2400 non-pwm?


Pretty loud if I have to guess, I have the 1850rpm variant and they're what i would consider fairly loud at 12V.


----------



## wermad

I guess it wouldn't make much of a difference vs my sp120's @ 2350rpm







. Thanks


----------



## Yianni89

i may be selling 3 Noisblocker e-loop pwm... the higher rpm version. as new unused just unpacked for measurments...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> i may be selling 3 Noisblocker e-loop pwm... the higher rpm version. as new unused just unpacked for measurments...


! You mean the B12-P? Right now I just need three at the moment, though I will need about 12 later on when I add two more radiators to my loop.

Since I prefer that model considering when I have the rig folding I push the fans to like 1800+ rpm, but when not folding I let them cruise near 900-1000 rpm. It really takes loud fans to make me notice the fan. Six years around the heavy jets like a C-17 can do that.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

@wermad
they are probably noticably different. I hear those are the most quiet fans for the performance next to gentle typhoons.
also SPs are in general loud and unpleasant sounding for most.


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> ! You mean the B12-P? Right now I just need three at the moment, though I will need about 12 later on when I add two more radiators to my loop.
> 
> Since I prefer that model considering when I have the rig folding I push the fans to like 1800+ rpm, but when not folding I let them cruise near 900-1000 rpm. It really takes loud fans to make me notice the fan. Six years around the heavy jets like a C-17 can do that.


yes that one... however it will be a couple of weeks before i know if i need them or not. as ive heard they are not so good for a push pull so i essence i have 3 spare... however i would need to find an alternative fan to pull through the monsta


----------



## DarthBaggins

Fittings work on the res


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> @wermad
> they are probably noticably different. I hear those are the most quiet fans for the performance next to gentle typhoons.
> also SPs are in general loud and unpleasant sounding for most.


Indeed, the eLoops are very close to the typhoons. Reason I love my eLoops. Though, my gentle typhoons AP-15s are still the best fans I got on hand, even if they are near six years old now, but they going into my Splash when I get around to doing its buildlog.

Also, agree about the SPs. I put my left over ones into Black Dragon, dang things are loud. Not as bad as the previous fans I had in it (Not joking previous fans sound like jet engines on idle), but dang it is bad if the A/C the only thing that can drown those fans out.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I guess it wouldn't make much of a difference vs my sp120's @ 2350rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks


Honestly after a couple of quiet nights listening to martins fans comparisons they all seemed very loud at anything past 1500 rpm. The thing that makes one more pleasing than another at a certain rpm is the tone they give off at a certain rpm. Take the SP120's. They are virtually silent at say 700 rpm, but bump up to 1500 and they seem very loud. They have a sort of "slappy" air sound to them.

In the end I pretty much decided that I was not going to run any fan at full speed unless it was absolutely necessary and to look closer at rpm/static pressure ranges I was actually going to be using them at. Which listening and comparing fans at the same rpm was pretty much a toss up at sub 1000 rpm.









Sound, noise, and the like is a little subjective but those are my thoughts on the matter.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Honestly after a couple of quiet nights listening to martins fans comparisons they all seemed very loud at anything past 1500 rpm. The thing that makes one more pleasing than another at a certain rpm is the tone they give off at a certain rpm. Take the SP120's. They are virtually silent at say 700 rpm, but bump up to 1500 and they seem very loud. They have a sort of "slappy" air sound to them.
> 
> In the end I pretty much decided that I was not going to run any fan at full speed unless it was absolutely necessary and to look closer at rpm/static pressure ranges I was actually going to be using them at. Which listening and comparing fans at the same rpm was pretty much a toss up at sub 1000 rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sound, noise, and the like is a little subjective but those are my thoughts on the matter.


I had similar experience, I have a few SP fans left over from my h100. they are super loud compared to everything else, but they do move air which is important for rads. none ofthe other fans moved anywhere near enough air

I had cougar pwm fans with the nioce bearings, -they are so slow they dont move any air, and they are actually pretty loud.
I heard alot of hub noise and just they were bad

so AP-30s with PWM mods! 30-40% pwm they are pretty quiet


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Fittings work on the res


Nice. But fill that one up before putting in the loop. Up to the top actually. If I am not mistaken that is a Aquacomputer reservoir check? Sometimes the oring on the top does not get properly seated and you can have a bad leak from there so just to be sure fill it up.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> yes that one... however it will be a couple of weeks before i know if i need them or not. as ive heard they are not so good for a push pull so i essence i have 3 spare... however i would need to find an alternative fan to pull through the monsta


Pull on monsta is ok, because the rad fins is far inside from the casing of the rad, I've no noise that can be heard when used in pull on other rads.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> The board already has the blocks right, so all you need is two fittings? Seems like a no brainier to me. Just for the aesthetics if nothing else.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a copper pipe with g1/4 threads. It's mainly for esthetics tbh.
Click to expand...

That's a nice board. At least your board has a copper channel on it. You might as well use it. Could be like ASUS and their aluminium setup on their RoG boards. Even after we all told them that it's Fail.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Pull on monsta is ok, because the rad fins is far inside from the casing of the rad, I've no noise that can be heard when used in pull on other rads.


excellent i don't need 3 new fans


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> @wermad
> they are probably noticably different. I hear those are the most quiet fans for the performance next to gentle typhoons.
> also SPs are in general loud and unpleasant sounding for most.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Indeed, the eLoops are very close to the typhoons. Reason I love my eLoops. Though, my gentle typhoons AP-15s are still the best fans I got on hand, even if they are near six years old now, but they going into my Splash when I get around to doing its buildlog.
> 
> Also, agree about the SPs. I put my left over ones into Black Dragon, dang things are loud. Not as bad as the previous fans I had in it (Not joking previous fans sound like jet engines on idle), but dang it is bad if the A/C the only thing that can drown those fans out.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Honestly after a couple of quiet nights listening to martins fans comparisons they all seemed very loud at anything past 1500 rpm. The thing that makes one more pleasing than another at a certain rpm is the tone they give off at a certain rpm. Take the SP120's. They are virtually silent at say 700 rpm, but bump up to 1500 and they seem very loud. They have a sort of "slappy" air sound to them.
> 
> In the end I pretty much decided that I was not going to run any fan at full speed unless it was absolutely necessary and to look closer at rpm/static pressure ranges I was actually going to be using them at. Which listening and comparing fans at the same rpm was pretty much a toss up at sub 1000 rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sound, noise, and the like is a little subjective but those are my thoughts on the matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Maybe should have waited for the twister (non pwm) @ 3k rpm!







At 940 rpm they're dead quite but the Monsta's will get toasty with quad Hawaii's. Triple Hawaii's wasn't that bad but this time its something I need to manage. Cores will go up to the high 50s and the room gets really warm, so i end up bumping them to ~7-9v and crank up the volume on my headset







. Temps do come down a bit.

I'm thinking of hooking one fan up to the mb and reading some rpm's for more accurate #s. The Mix2's sliders arent the most solid thing, so getting a good idea where the end up to match the rpm's will let me then select a level on the controller without guessing via audio queues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's a nice board. At least your board has a copper channel on it. You might as well use it. Could be like ASUS and their aluminium setup on their RoG boards. Even after we all told them that it's Fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks







. I would have have kept the sniper 5 but the heatpipe has barbs (3/8) and not ports. I couldn't find any Ek blocks for the sniper 5 so i sold that one. Though the audio is said to be the same thing, it found the outside interference is a bit more noticeable on this one then the z87. The bios is a bit more clean on this one and I have less troubles w/ DC vs the Z87 sniper 5 tbh.

I'm still not convinced. Maybe if i find some cheap BP shiny silver comp fittings later on. I had a seller but he backed out as soon as his upgrade plans got cancelled...oh well







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Happens. :dunno:

I am getting Red hardline fittings. But since I do have a redtop Supreme and have painted the cover red, am considering black fittings for my next order. Shiny or flat? It will obviously influence extension choices for other black fittings I think.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Well my new loops going well, played 4 hours of Far Cry 4 on very high settings and the temps I got were pretty good





Ambient has been around 32.8° most of the day and all 10 rad fans are on 5v (all intake) with the pump just under 3


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> ! You mean the B12-P? Right now I just need three at the moment, though I will need about 12 later on when I add two more radiators to my loop.
> 
> Since I prefer that model considering when I have the rig folding I push the fans to like 1800+ rpm, but when not folding I let them cruise near 900-1000 rpm. It really takes loud fans to make me notice the fan. Six years around the heavy jets like a C-17 can do that.


1800+ rpm fans are fairly loud in general. Just make sure you use them in push config, as I believe there is known issues when used in pull making them abnormally loud.


----------



## kot0005

Added the Aquaero. Its the best Fan controller out there!





More pics here : http://imgur.com/vdCILeR,P50hAhh,fyfv5Zm,zvd2NB9,CIWH74x,T8216nE,nFVrUVB#0


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nice. But fill that one up before putting in the loop. Up to the top actually. If I am not mistaken that is a Aquacomputer reservoir check? Sometimes the oring on the top does not get properly seated and you can have a bad leak from there so just to be sure fill it up.


Ahead of ya there







already leak tested when I was flushing with distilled (and was leak testing)


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> 1800+ rpm fans are fairly loud in general. Just make sure you use them in push config, as I believe there is known issues when used in pull making them abnormally loud.


That what I currently run my eLoops at most the time. 1800-2000 rpm I don't consider loud, but 3000 rpm on the other hand I do consider loud.

I just need to get a hold of some more eLoops though for my loop.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'll be running my fans through a Aquacomputer PA 2 ultra usb controller, so hopefully I can keep the noise to a min. Still wish my deltas weren't so loud


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'll be running my fans through a Aquacomputer PA 2 ultra usb controller, so hopefully I can keep the noise to a min. Still wish my *deltas* weren't so loud


Now that are loud fans. I had a small one on my previous ASUS Sabertooth motherboard that I rigged onto it (involved some thick o rings and long screws). Little fan going 3,000 rpm could make it self heard over SP120 fans.


----------



## DarthBaggins

But they move some air


----------



## LandonAaron

Can anyone recommend a sealant, epoxy, or caulk to use on an leaky acrylic port? I have an EK full cover block with a fc terminal that has two stripped ports that are leaking. I am trying to get a replacement terminal but I want to try and seal it for now.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a sealant, epoxy, or caulk to use on an leaky acrylic port? I have an EK full cover block with a fc terminal that has two stripped ports that are leaking. I am trying to get a replacement terminal but I want to try and seal it for now.


Permatex Marine. It comes in a blue tube and you can get it at any store.


----------



## szeged

Anyone use the bitspower 10/12mm acrylic tube? is it worth getting? its almost $5 cheaper for the same amount as E22


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Anyone use the bitspower 10/12mm acrylic tube? is it worth getting? its almost $5 cheaper for the same amount as E22


I didn't get the tube itself but the small crystal links sli from bitspower. If the tube is the same it is a good buy. Looks the same and feels the same like ek to me.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10745/ex-tub-670/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Crystal_Link_Tube_Set_-_3_Slot_Spacing_BP-CLTAC-S3.html?id=2JUxAIiI&mv_pc=1322


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I didn't get the tube itself but the small crystal links sli from bitspower. If the tube is the same it is a good buy. Looks the same and feels the same like ek to me.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10745/ex-tub-670/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Crystal_Link_Tube_Set_-_3_Slot_Spacing_BP-CLTAC-S3.html?id=2JUxAIiI&mv_pc=1322


i think its the same, guess ill buy it and try it.


----------



## cyphon

New toys



















*Build Log*


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey all, quick question.

You delidded guys cover your transistors with protective coatings. Can I do that with my GPUs before I mount my blocks? If so, what's best to use?

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I think you do that w/ CL. I'm using ic7 and its non conductive and why I didn't cover the transistors. If you do need to cover them, all you need is black silicone to protect them (and you can use the silicone to seal the ihs back to the pcb).


----------



## Ceadderman

Not gonna use CLU, since my blocks are copper. Using G751 as always. I have always had good results with it. It's even under my MB block. I just think that I want to protect the transistors regardless. Pretty sure G751 iisn't conductive either. It's an OCD thing.









~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I just put pink nail polish on my processor that my girlfriend insists is actually clear on my 4790k. No problems in the 15 min I have run it, lol.


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I just put pink nail polish on my processor that my girlfriend insists is actually clear on my 4790k. No problems in the 15 min I have run it, lol.


Lol why is nail polish on it


----------



## wermad

@Ceadderman

CL goes on the die and inside of the ihs. On top of the ihs, you can use what ever tim you'd like. Unless you planning to run naked die?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Lol why is nail polish on it


I've seen this used before. Its to insulate the transistors and not short/kill your cpu when the ihs is removed (delid).


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Ceadderman
> 
> CL goes on the die and inside of the ihs. On top of the ihs, you can use what ever tim you'd like. Unless you planning to run naked die?
> *I've seen this used before. Its to insulate the transistors and not short/kill your cpu when the ihs is removed (delid).*


this exactly. Some people like to insulate whole motherboards or gpus with nail polish when going sub zero, but that has mostly died out as there are easier (and faster) ways of doing it now that are removable if you want to clean off the board.


----------



## Ithanul

I just used spare TIM to cover mine.



Really glad the 4770k survived since it did go for a little short flying trip when I knocked it off its IHS.


----------



## emsj86

Just bought some tl light blue acrylic sheets going to cut and mount them on the floor and back wall of my pc. Kinda like the hex gear r40. Eventually I want to make a little cover kinda of like the neptune 2.0 build by Joe Joe where the blue pastel runs through it like it's draining into a puddle. Also will the multi links work with 3/8 x 1/2 petg primochill tubing by any chance. I may have asked before.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey all, quick question.
> 
> You delidded guys cover your transistors with protective coatings. Can I do that with my GPUs before I mount my blocks? If so, what's best to use?
> 
> ~Ceadder


I use clear nail polish.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I hope you can get it soon. Nothing like having to wait on one part to start your build. I'll keep an eye out for you.


Good news, heard back from them and they said as long as Bitspower has stock they will order at least 5.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Good news, heard back from them and they said as long as Bitspower has stock they will order at least 5.


Glad to hear! I hope you can get it soon.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Glad to hear! I hope you can get it soon.


Some bastard here will be running 4x sli amd buy them up on me i bet.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Some bastard here will be running 4x sli amd buy them up on me i bet.


Now you will make szeged angry


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Lol why is nail polish on it


Delid and put liquid metal TIM on processor die. Put nail posh on the little metal parts next to processor die on the pcb to avoid a short if the liquid metal drifts over there.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I just used spare TIM to cover mine.
> 
> 
> 
> Really glad the 4770k survived since it did go for a little short flying trip when I knocked it off its IHS.


Lol, same thing happened to me when i did my first delid. This time around, i watched a vid from some Italian enthusiast. They taped the silicone to the vise (also lined the vise jaws with masking tape as well). That way, when you hit the block and pcb, it doesn't send it flying off.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, same thing happened to me when i did my first delid. This time around, i watched a vid from some Italian enthusiast. They taped the silicone to the vise (also lined the vise jaws with masking tape as well). That way, when you hit the block and pcb, it doesn't send it flying off.


I know exactly which vid you're on about, it has a proper 90's sound track on it!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Now you will make szeged angry


I don't care if is 4x as long as it's not EVGA 970's!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey all, quick question.
> 
> You delidded guys cover your transistors with protective coatings. Can I do that with my GPUs before I mount my blocks? If so, what's best to use?
> 
> ~Ceadder




I second or third... w/e the Notion for Nail Polish.







Works like a dream and makes my Processor bedazzlled.









The Cautious One


----------



## snef

teaser of the EK-Vulture in white


----------



## wermad

Title: "Albino Vulture"

Can't wait snef









edit: or

"Snow Vulture"
"Alpine Vulture"


----------



## sinnedone

Looks good snef









paint or powdercoat?


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks guys for the input. I will go with clear polish for the transistors on my GPUs.

When I upgrade my system I will use it on my CPU.









First things first however so upgrading takes a backseat to the mod.









~Ceadder


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Title: "Albino Vulture"
> 
> Can't wait snef
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: or
> 
> "Snow Vulture"
> "Alpine Vulture"


Lolll thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks good snef
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> paint or powdercoat?


Paint, House of Kolor
Paint job by Hanoverfist,


----------



## wermad

Han does awesome paint jobs !


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, same thing happened to me when i did my first delid. This time around, i watched a vid from some Italian enthusiast. They taped the silicone to the vise (also lined the vise jaws with masking tape as well). That way, when you hit the block and pcb, it doesn't send it flying off.


Think I've done 6 chips now. Last 3 or 4 I have got to where I can tell when it's about to let go and take it out and just pull it off like a big plastic kids sticker. So satisfying. I use liquid electrical tape on the vrms or whatever is next to the die.


----------



## Nick the Slick

Changed my loop just a little bit and... sleeved cables!







Have been wanting to do that forever and thanks to @Lutro0's guides and videos I finally made that happen







. I know there's still a ton I can do because I still don't get that "wow" feeling I get when I look at a lot of builds on here, but I'm stuck and out of ideas so suggestions and constructive criticism are very welcome. Especially on how to hide the fan cable going to my GPU. I could just control the fans manually, but I don't think the GPU will allow the system to post without the fan connected.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick the Slick*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Changed my loop just a little bit and... sleeved cables!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have been wanting to do that forever and thanks to @Lutro0's guides and videos I finally made that happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I know there's still a ton I can do because I still don't get that "wow" feeling I get when I look at a lot of builds on here, but I'm stuck and out of ideas so suggestions and constructive criticism are very welcome. Especially on how to hide the fan cable going to my GPU. I could just control the fans manually, but I don't think the GPU will allow the system to post without the fan connected.


My ideas:

Pastel black liquid
Change front fans, white doesnt fit
White sticker on pump must go away
Back noctua fan meh, maybe all black fan?
Gpu fan cable doesnt look so bad, maybe u can atach it to gpu power cables?

Nice build, but u can improve it !


----------



## emsj86

Just suggestions. I would move the pump to bottom between psu and where it's mounts now. Than maybe get a larger res. pump top heat sink housings always look nice and clean. And maybe a back are for the gpu. You for the gold down I wouldn't focus on adding any more but offsetting the colors. Just my suggestions good work


----------



## electro2u

Very happy with new design of alphacool led stop plugs:


The bulb fits right down into the bottom of the plug and it provides a much improved effect over the bitspower acrylic led plugs I had been using on the top of my Bay reservoir. Plus these fittings are much lower profile.


----------



## sinnedone

Ooh nice, what size led?


----------



## guitarhero23

Can i see a pic of it in action?


----------



## Rahldrac

So I came across Jaystwocents new video today:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPa6lAC0jTs

And I wonder, what are the downside to PETG? Since it seems like most people on OCN seem to be using acrylic ?

Edit:
Saw the ending.


----------



## Nick the Slick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> My ideas:
> 
> Pastel black liquid
> Change front fans, white doesnt fit
> White sticker on pump must go away
> Back noctua fan meh, maybe all black fan?
> Gpu fan cable doesnt look so bad, maybe u can atach it to gpu power cables?
> 
> Nice build, but u can improve it !


Thanks and great suggestions. Not sure why that sticker hasn't disappeared yet lol.

Will have to think about the black liquid. Still trying to convince myself the dye is harmless even though I know people use it daily with no real issue. Could just go black tubing but I know dyed liquid in clear tubing looks so much better, plus it'll show in the res.

The fans, man, everyone hates Noctua colors







. Guess I'll look into eLoops or Gentle Typhoons that I keep reading about. The white fans can be replaced no problem, they're the stock NZXT fans, but just worried about losing a little performance from the Noctuas (or can I expect same/better performance from the eLoops or GTs?).

Thought about attaching the fan cable to the power cables but not sure I can do it without distracting from the sleeved cables. I'll have to play around with it. Thanks though, great simple suggestions to clean things up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just suggestions. I would move the pump to bottom between psu and where it's mounts now. Than maybe get a larger res. pump top heat sink housings always look nice and clean. And maybe a back are for the gpu. You for the gold down I wouldn't focus on adding any more but offsetting the colors. Just my suggestions good work


Man you're right inside my head lol. That's where I was originally going to mount the pump, but I decided on it's current location for ease of tube routing. When I get some better tube (using Home Depot tube right now







) I'll see if I can't make that work cause that space needs to be filled by _something_.

Definitely agree on the gold, I've saturated that at this point. Had no plans to add more. A backplate for the gpu is definitely on my list though. Just didn't want to add that extra ~$40 at the time I got the block/gpu though. Thanks for the input!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Mayhem's dye is what you want. Can also get mixtures with biocide and anti-corrosison included.


----------



## emsj86

Yea I hear ya about cost. I regret not going all out from the being. Spent a lot money just to want more. But than again that will probably never end. Hardline tubing is always nice to. You could if you mounted where we were talking, have the outlet of pump go to gpu than end back at the top of the res. I'm actually waiting on some acrylic to do some acrylic bending and use it to mount on my chasis back wall (see snefs blue angel and neptune 2.0 to see what I m looking to do)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Last shots with a new coolant,yellow pastel with half a bottle of UV green in it....

Just fettling the OS ready for I series and letting steam fill up all the drives.





You can see how tight it was to work in there in this shot.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@B NEGATIVE Damn.

The Cautious One


----------



## emsj86

B neg what did you use to paint the ek csq adapters and would it be possible to do it with the silver ek csq fittings. (The green paint in the logo) I was thinking of painting my silver ek csq fittings blue (well just the ek part and wasn't sure if it would work just using paint and say zippo fluid to remove extra paint/mistakes)


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I came across Jaystwocents new video today:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPa6lAC0jTs
> 
> And I wonder, what are the downside to PETG? Since it seems like most people on OCN seem to be using acrylic ?
> 
> Edit:
> Saw the ending.


Basically people on ocn have more experience and trust with acrylic and the benefits of PETG is not that important in terms of watercooling unless you want to ship your pc. There are also rumors that PETG yellows over time which is not an issue with acrylic as it does not absorb water.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Last shots with a new coolant,yellow pastel with half a bottle of UV green in it....
> 
> Just fettling the OS ready for I series and letting steam fill up all the drives.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see how tight it was to work in there in this shot.....


Pretty sweet build! I'd just be worried about someone grabbing the tubing instead of the frame cause they look pretty much the same


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Very happy with new design of alphacool led stop plugs:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bulb fits right down into the bottom of the plug and it provides a much improved effect over the bitspower acrylic led plugs I had been using on the top of my Bay reservoir. Plus these fittings are much lower profile.


lol how is the top compared to the BP ones, I have alot of issues with trying to get 1/2id 3/4 od fittings on my BP d5 top because of the ones BP has are too wide


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> B neg what did you use to paint the ek csq adapters and would it be possible to do it with the silver ek csq fittings. (The green paint in the logo) I was thinking of painting my silver ek csq fittings blue (well just the ek part and wasn't sure if it would work just using paint and say zippo fluid to remove extra paint/mistakes)


I cut vinyl and stuck them in,much cleaner than paint


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Last shots with a new coolant,yellow pastel with half a bottle of UV green in it....
> 
> Just fettling the OS ready for I series and letting steam fill up all the drives.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see how tight it was to work in there in this shot.....


B Neg. You are truelly an artiste. This is very beautiful


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Lumo is perfect now @B NEGATIVE. How do you like the Mayhems Yellow Pastel? Does it stain much?

I am thinking of getting it for my build, actually.







Black/Yellow is the thing!


----------



## sebkow

Anyone have an idea what is the smallest case that can fit a 360 rad?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Anyone have an idea what is the smallest case that can fit a 360 rad?


Define R5 if i 'm correct


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Anyone have an idea what is the smallest case that can fit a 360 rad?


native support or modded support? there is a huge difference.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Lumo is perfect now @B NEGATIVE. How do you like the Mayhems Yellow Pastel? Does it stain much?
> 
> I am thinking of getting it for my build, actually.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black/Yellow is the thing!


Mayhems just release non-staining dye as well. Can always dye your own from white pastel.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I cut vinyl and stuck them in,much cleaner than paint


Hmmm didn't think of that great idea. Must have been using a small knife. I think I have one laying around in my tool bag and try it or thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Anyone have an idea what is the smallest case that can fit a 360 rad?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Define R5 if i 'm correct


atx or micro? Native support? If so s5 give you native support on top.

http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s5-case/


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lol how is the top compared to the BP ones, I have alot of issues with trying to get 1/2id 3/4 od fittings on my BP d5 top because of the ones BP has are too wide


The top of the plexi fitting is perfect imo. Mine are hidden and I have the option of using a flathead crew driver because either are notched. I don't have to though because the top sides are so grippy. Put them upside down and they passed the blizzard test.

My BP fittings are too tall, too hard to hand tighten and too dim.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I cut vinyl and stuck them in,much cleaner than paint
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm didn't think of that great idea. Must have been using a small knife. I think I have one laying around in my tool bag and try it or thanks
Click to expand...

Pretty sure B Neg's using a vinyl cutter like a Silhouette or the like to make custom decals and such.


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> atx or micro? Native support? If so s5 give you native support on top.
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s5-case/


any doesnt matter, s5 is huge..... I got one already that thing is massive


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> any doesnt matter, s5 is huge..... I got one already that thing is massive


One mans massive is another mans small....That's what she said?

I got an s5 because I wanted to go to a small form factor compared to my current PC lol.


----------



## pompss

Guys any suggestion for easy disconnect the video card with hard tubing without empting the loop??
I was considering adding some valve .....


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> One mans massive is another mans small....That's what she said?
> 
> I got an s5 because I wanted to go to a small form factor compared to my current PC lol.


Not that your opinions doesnt matter but when "Anyone have an idea what is the smallest case that can fit a 360 rad?" its comes down to fact. I dont think you can say in your opinion you can say something is smaller....


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Not that your opinions doesnt matter but when "Anyone have an idea what is the smallest case that can fit a 360 rad?" its comes down to fact. I dont think you can say in your opinion you can say something is smaller....


Well yes, I can agree with that


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> any doesnt matter, s5 is huge..... I got one already that thing is massive


a 360 mm rad will be at least around 400 mm so, while size is relative that is a simple fact. Magicool slim which usually are among the smallest rads is 392 mm in length. Cases will have to be a little longer than that to accommodate a 360 mm rad. S5 is around ~480 mm so if you think that is too big you need to find something around 400 mm in length. Good luck I don't have a recommendation from the top of my head. Perhaps check some of the _relatively_ new models from Phanteks.

for those building on orange themed MBs:



corsair just put this out:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/9103/corsair-releases-orange-dominator-platinum-ddr43400-for-gigabyte-x99soc-champion


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> a 360 mm rad will be at least around 400 mm so, while size is relative that is a simple fact. Magicool slim which usually are among the smallest rads is 392 mm in length. Cases will have to be a little longer than that to accommodate a 360 mm rad. S5 is around ~480 mm so if you think that is too big you need to find something around 400 mm in length. Good luck I don't have a recommendation from the top of my head. Perhaps check some of the _relatively_ new models from Phanteks.


i modded a 360 into the top of my 500r. its a 21" long case(19.5" inside measurement). a 400mm(roughly 20") long case isnt going to cut it as you need to account for the cases front bezel or top bezel and/or feet if front mounting.
19" is bare minimum inside working dimension in my opinion.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i modded a 360 into the top of my 500r. its a 21" long case(19.5" inside measurement). a 400mm(roughly 20") long case isnt going to cut it as you need to account for the cases front bezel or top bezel and/or feet if front mounting.
> 19" is bare minimum inside working dimension in my opinion.


yep I agree, That's why I said *it needs to be a little longer that 400 mm*. But the OP thinks the S5 is too big so not sure there is any other small case that can fit a 360 rad since the s5 is 480 in length already. There still space there for a small fan controller so perhaps you can fit a 360 in a case of 450mm or 460 mm long but not much smaller than that. Just mine


----------



## Devildog83

Anyone have idea's for coolant color in a black and gold build?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hmmm possibly a Aurora 2 Gold Booster in the Oil Black Pastel


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Hmmm possibly a Aurora 2 Gold Booster in the Oil Black Pastel


I will look at that, thanks. It's going in here.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I will look at that, thanks. It's going in here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> /quote]
> 
> My experience with black pastel + aurora booster silver was not very good. The booster tend to disappear in the black pastel. You might perhaps try just water with aurora gold booster and perhaps some pastel white along to balance the color and give some depth. soft or acrylic tubing?


----------



## vmatt1203

Well after seeing that @devildog, I almost feel ashamed to post my rig.
After a battle with algae here is my new(but old) rig freshly completed.
From this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







TO THIS:




Love this case so much better. And despite the HAF-X being the king of airflow my cards run 10c cooler in this, in xfire, with 20% less fan speed. And dropped 3c going from a 320 to 240 rad. Weird.

Edit: Also not really that bright, just long exposed picture.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Guys any suggestion for easy disconnect the video card with hard tubing without empting the loop??
> I was considering adding some valve .....


A qdc w/ sli link? The sli link will allow you to move the tube out of the way by sliding it and the qdc will prevent loss of liquid. It may end up looking bulky but that just came to mind.

Its one reason I'm still not ready to go back to hard lines


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I will look at that, thanks. It's going in here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> /quote]
> 
> My experience with black pastel + aurora booster silver was not very good. The booster tend to disappear in the black pastel. You might perhaps try just water with aurora gold booster and perhaps some pastel white along to balance the color and give some depth. soft or acrylic tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 12mm x 16mm acrylic Just waiting for the replacement PSU so I can install the GPU and sleeved cables. I thing the gold or silver aurora might look good.
Click to expand...


----------



## Laine

Been working on this lil' guy. Gigabyte Brix Pro 4770R with full watercooling.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just fettling the OS ready for I series and letting steam fill up all the drives.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see how tight it was to work in there in this shot.....


That new coolant is looking awesome man.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Those flat areas inside the main o-ring often become traps for stagnant liquid. The stagnation could have just let the particles of the coolant to come out of suspension and clump a bit. At the same time the stagnation can also cause the beginnings of corrosion. Only way to tell is to take it apart and give it a clean.


I don't think it will corrode, I don't see a reason why it would. Now to the cleaning part. My concern is that if I clean it now it will just come back after a while


----------



## Jesse36m3

Built this back in January. Enjoy!

http://imgur.com/a/5rUBM

HTC_M8_TAPATALK


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Those flat areas inside the main o-ring often become traps for stagnant liquid. The stagnation could have just let the particles of the coolant to come out of suspension and clump a bit. At the same time the stagnation can also cause the beginnings of corrosion. Only way to tell is to take it apart and give it a clean.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think it will corrode, I don't see a reason why it would. Now to the cleaning part. My concern is that if I clean it now it will just come back after a while
Click to expand...

Anywhere where there is stagnant water flow,corrosion is a potential concern,a smear of silicone lube over those parts will put an end to any issues that could arise.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Anywhere where there is stagnant water flow,corrosion is a potential concern,a smear of silicone lube over those parts will put an end to any issues that could arise.


Have I understood this right? I should drain the loop, take the card out, remove the top then clean all the gunk out with alcohol then smear some cilicone lube around the "fins" to seal it from water sipping out?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> gonna water cool my water so its colder when i drink it.


You get the right things said!









Just ordered 10x BP 10/12mm 50cm acrylic tubing for my build, I think I am skipping all those fittings after all.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Woooo....
> 
> LUMO is on the carousel for the OCN WC club.


I have no idea why, it's not like you ever create anything special.....
























Congrats, Daniel. You always put forth hard work into all of your builds!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Has anyone used the pine-sol method for cleaning the loop described in Swiftech page:
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/FAQs.aspx
> 
> Would it be ok to use on acrylic tubing (@BramSLI1)?
> 
> This just start to develop on the blocks and looks like algae by the spread rate:
> 
> at first I though might be some leftovers of the Aurora 2 booster which was depositing close to the bridge but just noticed it spread to several spots on the block. Was considering giving pine sol a go since I will be changing VGAs in about two/three weeks. Thoughts?


There shouldn't be any problem with using our Pine-Sol method with acrylic tubing. Let me know if you have any other questions about this. I've used this method myself a couple of times now and it's worked great.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> 12mm x 16mm acrylic Just waiting for the replacement PSU so I can install the GPU and sleeved cables. I thing the gold or silver aurora might look good.


why is your coolant so milky?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Has anyone used the pine-sol method for cleaning the loop described in Swiftech page:
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/FAQs.aspx
> 
> Would it be ok to use on acrylic tubing (@BramSLI1)?


Yes I have and it saved my badly corroded Apogee HD as I often mention when corrosion comes up (some regulars are probably tired of hearing about it lol). I had to soak for almost 48 hours and also use a brush but it came off. The opaque white solution had a greenish tint after only 12 hours so I knew it was working.

Yeah can't speak for acrylic or any non-metal, though. If no one knows you might just have to test with a small piece.

Edit: On second thought, yeah I can. Don't use it on plastic (as fits with common sense, frankly). I didn't think about it at first though and mixed this in a plastic measuring cup and it roughened and stained the surface.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> why is your coolant so milky?


It was white, I am flushing it out. I will drain and refill it 2 or 3 more times until the white is gone.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I have no idea why, it's not like you ever create anything special.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats, Daniel. You always put forth hard work into all of your builds!


Lmao


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Anywhere where there is stagnant water flow,corrosion is a potential concern,a smear of silicone lube over those parts will put an end to any issues that could arise.


This. I had a drain that hung off the bottom of a vertical mounted rad at the bottom of the loop and that sucker would get gross quick and the coolant that came out of the low hanging portion of the rad was discolored. The QDC on the bottom collected plasticizer and gunk.

Now I have my drain coming horizontal out from the loop with a line running under it that circulates any coolant that gets forced against the valve to open the drain. Gotta always keep gravity in mind. You don't want any places where gravity will hold coolant in a spot.


----------



## emsj86

We made the front page


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Anywhere where there is stagnant water flow,corrosion is a potential concern,a smear of silicone lube over those parts will put an end to any issues that could arise.
> 
> 
> 
> Have I understood this right? I should drain the loop, take the card out, remove the top then clean all the gunk out with alcohol then smear some cilicone lube around the "fins" to seal it from water sipping out?
Click to expand...

Sort of....

Clean everything up then smear on the flat surfaces that mate with the acrylic in the waterside section.
Dont go mad with it,just lightly coat the metal,it should discourage water ingress.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Woooo....
> 
> LUMO is on the carousel for the OCN WC club.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea why, it's not like you ever create anything special.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats, Daniel. You always put forth hard work into all of your builds!
Click to expand...

I do try....although I have a new rule of one build at a time......


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sort of....
> 
> Clean everything up then smear on the flat surfaces that mate with the acrylic in the waterside section.
> Dont go mad with it,just lightly coat the metal,it should discourage water ingress.
> I do try....although I have a new rule of one build at a time......


What can't keep doing 3 at a time


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sort of....
> 
> Clean everything up then smear on the flat surfaces that mate with the acrylic in the waterside section.
> Dont go mad with it,just lightly coat the metal,it should discourage water ingress.
> I do try....although I have a new rule of one build at a time......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What can't keep doing 3 at a time
Click to expand...

My man cave is totally full of PC bits......I can even use the Aqua C remote start as I push the button and 3 rigs fire up......


----------



## MocoIMO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My man cave is totally full of PC bits......I can even use the Aqua C remote start as I push the button and 3 rigs fire up......


On the bright side... you don't have to get up to power those 3 rigs on now


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MocoIMO*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My man cave is totally full of PC bits......I can even use the Aqua C remote start as I push the button and 3 rigs fire up......
> 
> 
> 
> On the bright side... you don't have to get up to power those 3 rigs on now
Click to expand...

*cant....

Not can....

There is something satisfying about remote start,I want it to play an audio file saying 'Hello....Dave' too...if I could be bothered to actually do it....

My name is not Dave btw.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *cant....
> 
> Not can....
> 
> There is something satisfying about remote start,I want it to play an audio file saying 'Hello....Dave' too...if I could be bothered to actually do it....
> 
> My name is not Dave btw.


Yeah, but that would be pretty cool.


----------



## szeged

im sorry dave...i cant do that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Dave's not here man


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MocoIMO*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My man cave is totally full of PC bits......I can even use the Aqua C remote start as I push the button and 3 rigs fire up......
> 
> 
> 
> On the bright side... you don't have to get up to power those 3 rigs on now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *cant....
> 
> Not can....
> 
> There is something satisfying about remote start,I want it to play an audio file saying 'Hello....Dave' too...if I could be bothered to actually do it....
> 
> My name is not Dave btw.
Click to expand...

That might actually be easier than you think









Darlene


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Koolance sells qdc with threads.


Nice i didnt know that.
Ok i have the rigit tubing able to move it up , down, right and left after i disconnect it so o think this should work for the vga waterblock outlet to the pump.
The problem now its from the rad to the inlet of the waterblock .
Thinking for a solution......


----------



## Nichismo

gosh its been a while since ive posted anything so I just thought id go around and share the latest pics of my rig, ive actually finished both loops at this point, although when I took these pictures I still hadnt connected that last run down in the corner from the chassis divider to AX rad. Im going to finish filling them with DIW tonight and connect all my cables, and then if I want to make any changes to the loops i will. If not, ill fill in the mayhems dye a in a week or two.


----------



## catbuster

@Nichismo looks really clean, like it very much, i see u dont want to part with your corsair sticker


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> gosh its been a while since ive posted anything so I just thought id go around and share the latest pics of my rig, ive actually finished both loops at this point, although when I took these pictures I still hadnt connected that last run down in the corner from the chassis divider to AX rad. Im going to finish filling them with DIW tonight and connect all my cables, and then if I want to make any changes to the loops i will. If not, ill fill in the mayhems dye a in a week or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Looks excellent







. You're doing a great job, keep it up.


----------



## sdmf74

NICE!


----------



## SoulFallen

First water cooling build is done! (mostly) need a 390x >_>


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There shouldn't be any problem with using our Pine-Sol method with acrylic tubing. Let me know if you have any other questions about this. I've used this method myself a couple of times now and it's worked great.


Thanks Bryan. I used the pine sol but will have to tear open the blocks and clean it anyway. I want to known what is it. It seems to be attaching to the acrylic part of the block not the nickel. Anyway someone was asking about how to fill the loop and I used this way for the pine sol treatment. Worked like a charm if you have a rad on top with ports facing up:


----------



## cennis

FT03 mini mod with 2x120mm rads, dual 180mm rad, atx psu, 295x2 4770k and front window











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Any tips on bleeding the loop? i filled it via the top and went between running the pump and opening each rad fill port to let air escape and funnel water in until it flows out (full).

It seems to be full but my d5 is making little noises like theres some bubbles. Water flows out of any port on the top when opened


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> gosh its been a while since ive posted anything so I just thought id go around and share the latest pics of my rig, ive actually finished both loops at this point, although when I took these pictures I still hadnt connected that last run down in the corner from the chassis divider to AX rad. Im going to finish filling them with DIW tonight and connect all my cables, and then if I want to make any changes to the loops i will. If not, ill fill in the mayhems dye a in a week or two.


only one question.

For what do you need parallel flow in the SLI bridge and is this really more effective than one tube?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> only one question.
> 
> For what do you need parallel flow in the SLI bridge and is this really more effective than one tube?


For two cards, there is marginal difference between series and parallel. It's only when you get into three and four cards that it makes a difference. I can't remember for certain, but I think parallel is better for three cards, and for four, semi-parallel is the go to method(cards 1 and 2, 3 and 4 in parallel, the series between 2 and 3, I believe). I'd wait for confirmation from someone that runs more than two cards though. I also run parallel for two cards purely out of personal preference. I just think it looks nicer than series

PS...please spoiler tag quoted pics


----------



## Ceadderman

You can run parallel or serial tbh. Yes the performance will be marginal, but iT's not hurting anything running that setup. I suspect that he did it that way for aesthetics. I could be wrong.









~Cease


----------



## H2lium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thanks Bryan. I used the pine sol but will have to tear open the blocks and clean it anyway. I want to known what is it. It seems to be attaching to the acrylic part of the block not the nickel. Anyway someone was asking about how to fill the loop and I used this way for the pine sol treatment. Worked like a charm if you have a rad on top with ports facing up:


what case is that if I may ask? looks lovely


----------



## wermad

On the extreme (confirmed by TSM160) end, series can have a significant difference in temps. For the majority of the average users out there, not much difference tbh. Pump pressure was higher in series from my basic testing I did a bit ago btw.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H2lium*
> 
> what case is that if I may ask? looks lovely


caselabs SMA8 in reverse atx









http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build


----------



## Jakusonfire

Most of the difference between Serial and Parallel arrangements for GPU's is quite heavily dependant on the blocks themselves. For modern high flow blocks like EK's then series for 2 or 3 blocks can be fine but doing the same with older style Heatkiller and Aquacomputer blocks is getting into severe restriction levels. Which is why the Heatkiller bridges come as Parallel by default.
Their very high restriction meant they still worked very well at very low Parallel flow rates.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Found a Thread someone had linked in 2011. Same Discussion about Series Vs Parallel

The Cautious One

I vote Parallel


----------



## emsj86

ot alittle but figured some of you guys have done this and could help me. I received a piece of light blue acrylic sheet. I planned to cut it and mount it to the back panel. Now I used a cordless 18volt hacksaw with a fine brand new blade , but it ended up spiltting the acrylic. I than used a dremel but that would do the same not as bad as the hacksaw. Is there a certain tool i should use to cut the acrylic whille keeping straight lines and not cracking it?

as seen in the picture my plan was to mount back on the back panel so it has to be notched out in areas to fit right (note i will be painting the sound card cover and getting rid of the red led lights from it and I will remove the vinyal sticker I put on)


----------



## sinnedone

It probably cracked for several reasons.

1st is you were trying to go faster then the blade could cut and it snagged pulling the panel up and down cracking it.

Second is simply to fast a speed of the jigsaw.

Third is not securing the acrylic down to prevent movement.

Other than that it should work just fine.


----------



## emsj86

I'll try again tomorrow I was and am tired tonight from work and was rushing it to get it down for the mod of the month deadline. Idk if I ll have time to get it done by the 28th. But well see. Thanks for the advise. Sucks too because the acrylic matches perfect to the blue pastel. I have a few ideas for it when I change my loop up next clean up


----------



## cmpxchg8b

My build is pretty much completed:

- White CaseLabs TH10A
- 4 x EVGA Titan Black
- 4 x Alphacool UT60





More details in the build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1546364/build-log-4x4-quad-titan-blacks-in-white-th10a


----------



## wermad

Very nice









You guys having trouble accessing ppcs.com??? Not loading for me







. Need to place an order asap


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Not opening for me either.

Placed an order earlier today; hope they're doing fine.


----------



## wermad

Ty good sir







. Relieved it wasn't just me. I'll try a bit later tonight (West Coast!).


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok folks. After 5 hours taking the loop down, opening both blocks, replacing the two pumps with d5 pwm models from Aquacomputer, cleaning, mounting everything back I got the pc back online. Turns out the spots on the two blocks were not algae or corrosion or anything like that. It was indeed aurora booster that was getting trap on the blocks. Mind you that I had already discarded the coolant with the aurora and was running pastel black. But some of the particles must have be in the loop. After open the blocks I got silver little balls which reminds in consistency and color a thermal pad. Here you can see one of those that were over the block channels:





]


----------



## catbuster

Any1 using EK-AF Angled 45° or 90° G1/4 Black adapter fittings? Any1 feedback would be nice







, was looking at bitspower but damn logos are all over the place


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Any1 using EK-AF Angled 45° or 90° G1/4 Black adapter fittings? Any1 feedback would be nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , was looking at bitspower but damn logos are all over the place


I have four EK-AF 45 degree dual rotaries in "silver", looks better than expected and they are way cheaper than the BP dual rotaries. I have no black fittings, so I do not know how the finish is on them.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Any1 using EK-AF Angled 45° or 90° G1/4 Black adapter fittings? Any1 feedback would be nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , was looking at bitspower but damn logos are all over the place


I use black EK-PSC angle adapters, which look very similar to the EK-AF adapters. Only difference I see is the rotary part on the new ones have only vertical knurles whereas the PSC have the crisscross. The finish on the PSC fittings match my BP black fittings almost perfect and disregarding the BP logo, it's hard to tell them apart without close inspection


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I got a mail from one of the chiefs at InWin asking if I would like to do another chassis for them.
Is there anything anyoe would like to see me do from the InWin chassis range?

I'm looking at a S BOX or another DFM....

Perhaps cut another DFM down and make a rad bay,allowing LUMO to have a full ATX board....

Thoughts?


----------



## catbuster

B do S frame !!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I got a mail from one of the chiefs at InWin asking if I would like to do another chassis for them.
> Is there anything anyoe would like to see me do from the InWin chassis range?
> 
> I'm looking at a S BOX or another DFM....
> 
> Perhaps cut another DFM down and make a rad bay,allowing LUMO to have a full ATX board....
> 
> Thoughts?


S-Frame get's my vote


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I got a mail from one of the chiefs at InWin asking if I would like to do another chassis for them.
> Is there anything anyoe would like to see me do from the InWin chassis range?
> 
> I'm looking at a S BOX or another DFM....
> 
> Perhaps cut another DFM down and make a rad bay,allowing LUMO to have a full ATX board....
> 
> Thoughts?


What would you prefer to do B Neg? Did you like working in the LUMO?

TCO


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> B do S frame !!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> S-Frame get's my vote


Another vote for the S Frame. Although I would like to see what you could do with something like the 904


----------



## sinnedone

I like the S Frame but unless you modify it heavily and tastefully there isn't much you can do with it. It's sort of a one trick pony.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> FT03 mini mod with 2x120mm rads, dual 180mm rad, atx psu, 295x2 4770k and front window
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any tips on bleeding the loop? i filled it via the top and went between running the pump and opening each rad fill port to let air escape and funnel water in until it flows out (full).

It seems to be full but my d5 is making little noises like theres some bubbles. Water flows out of any port on the top when opened


----------



## aaroc

How do you handle a quad ek terminal semi parallel?
You install the cards with the wb on the pcie slots an then screw the terminal or you screw it before an just insert all four gpus into the pcie slots simultaneously as they are one big unit?
How do you extract the four gpus from the pcie slots as one big unit or one by one disassembling the terminal?
Do you remove the four pcie release hinge to be able to insert and extract the four gpus as one?

For the first time i had a leak during the leak test in one of the gpus. I pretested the gpu blocks one by one a few months ago.

Im trying to use the ek quad terminal upside down, because the position of the holes suits my need better, is this ok?

I just dryed all and will test tonight.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> Any tips on bleeding the loop? i filled it via the top and went between running the pump and opening each rad fill port to let air escape and funnel water in until it flows out (full).
> 
> It seems to be full but my d5 is making little noises like theres some bubbles. Water flows out of any port on the top when opened


Shake and tilt while on and that's pretty much it unless you make a dedicated bleed port at its highest point.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@aaroc - I find it far easier to insert GPUs one by one, and connect them in place. Especially with 4 of them. Same thing (in reverse) with removal.

Upside-down is fine as long as all the water ports and mounting holes align, which I think they do even though I haven't seen those terminals in person. Water can flow either way as well.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Added Links in first post of the Build Log SMA8 to help navigate through the progress

TCO


----------



## Soccerking3000

Ill get some proper pictures soon but i recently redid the rigid tubing and got a new resevoir. let me know what you think!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Very nice,that long run in the middle looks out of place tho.....


----------



## Soccerking3000

i thought the same thing but there really isnt anywhere else to run it, i thought about up and around the res tightly but it didnt look right either


----------



## Ceadderman

Do have room to run it under that cross tube and between the res and GPUs? Cuz that would solve that issue I think.









~Cease Ceadder









Posted via stupid phone.


----------



## Soccerking3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Do have room to run it under that cross tube and between the res and GPUs? Cuz that would solve that issue I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Cease


there is literally 1mm space between the res and the gpu boards lol. I'll try and rebend a new line that fits really tightly to the res and keeps it out of the way. I wasnt happy with that piece as it has to have that bend in the middle so it throws off all the nice 90*'s i have everywhere else


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soccerking3000*
> 
> there is literally 1mm space between the res and the gpu boards lol. I'll try and rebend a new line that fits really tightly to the res and keeps it out of the way. I wasnt happy with that piece as it has to have that bend in the middle so it throws off all the nice 90*'s i have everywhere else


Kudos to you for taking someones comment about an acrlyic run and considering the advice and not getting angry


----------



## wrigleyvillain

A single 120/140mm rad behind the rear exhaust fan could solve this routing conundrum. Course thats more expense and work.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

And so it begins... Question first and formost. I can use the evga 780ti classy backplate with the ek waterblock right?


----------



## Soccerking3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Kudos to you for taking someones comment about an acrlyic run and considering the advice and not getting angry


why would i get angry lol, I'm the one who asked for criticism and advice!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Some people do, man...some people do.


----------



## Soccerking3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> A single 120/140mm rad behind the rear exhaust fan could solve this routing conundrum. Course thats more expense and work.


what do you mean? drill holes below the fan and run the lines through there?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No just add a single fan radiator behind the present fan. You take that fan off the case and attach it to like an ST30 or something thinner and then install the rad in that spot. Now you have two more ports for routing and a bit more cooling surface area too.


----------



## Soccerking3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No just add a single fan radiator behind the present fan. You take that fan off the case and attach it to like an ST30 or something thinner and then install the rad in that spot. Now you have two more ports for routing and a bit more cooling surface area too.


I'll go home and measure tonight but i think there will be clearance issues between the tubing already there (at least to the CPU block) and the fan. I could mount the radiator externally and drill 2 passthroughs for the fittings. This would clean up the routing, add more cooling, and keep the current clearances... i hope lol


----------



## Yungbenny911

@Soccerking3000 It looks nice. I didn't notice the slight bend in the first photo lol. You should reheat it and try to get it as straight as possible IF you cannot find another way to route it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Soccerking3000*
> 
> there is literally 1mm space between the res and the gpu boards lol. I'll try and rebend a new line that fits really tightly to the res and keeps it out of the way. I wasnt happy with that piece as it has to have that bend in the middle so it throws off all the nice 90*'s i have everywhere else
> 
> 
> 
> Kudos to you for taking someones comment about an acrlyic run and considering the advice and not getting angry
Click to expand...

This.

Refreshing and welcome.

A considered and critical opinion is not a bad thing at all. The best solution will present itself in the end.

Soccerking,maybe flip the top rad 180 so the ports are at the other end,put the fans case side and use a 90 off the port for the CPU and run the other run straight down? It would 'balance' the rig better.


----------



## Soccerking3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Refreshing and welcome.
> 
> A considered and critical opinion is not a bad thing at all. The best solution will present itself in the end.
> 
> Soccerking,maybe flip the top rad 180 so the ports are at the other end,put the fans case side and use a 90 of the port for the CPU and run the other run straight down? It would 'balance' the rig better.


One step ahead of ya lol, I tried that, the endtanks get in the way of the other radiator in the front. I think I'll throw on a 140x1 radiator on the back of the case drill 2 passthroughs and that will break up that huge run from the pump. It will also pull all the lines to the side so to speak so they arent smack dab in the middle of the rig and provide some additional cooling, can never have enough


----------



## Soccerking3000

that bend in the middle still makes me cringe cant believe i left it like that :-/ you can see it better in this picture


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soccerking3000*
> 
> that bend in the middle still makes me cringe cant believe i left it like that :-/ you can see it better in this picture


Dont be too hard on yourself,thats a good series of bends,not easy for anyone,they could be tidier bends but im guessing this was your first?
It works,its not pissing out everywhere and the rest you can work on.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

its actually pretty good aside from that one pump to rad tube
and its easy to see how it could happen,
would it not work to swap the inlet and out on the pump?
I think it might line up a little easier.

just an idea









did you use a silicone tube thing inside the hardline when you formed it? just wondering cuz ithe corners look slightly more pinched than I am used to seeing. I havent done hardline yet, nothing to use it on, so I am curious how it comes out with different techniques and skill levels


----------



## korruptedkaos

my second time acrylic tubing

















I dont use any measuring or mandrels either lol. i just do it by eye. the tube im using aswell is 12mm OD 8mm ID, I had to make my own insert hehe.

now its just the pump to finish piping & its time for a leak test









wish me luck!


----------



## Soccerking3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> its actually pretty good aside from that one pump to rad tube
> and its easy to see how it could happen,
> would it not work to swap the inlet and out on the pump?
> I think it might line up a little easier.
> 
> just an idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you use a silicone tube thing inside the hardline when you formed it? just wondering cuz ithe corners look slightly more pinched than I am used to seeing. I havent done hardline yet, nothing to use it on, so I am curious how it comes out with different techniques and skill levels


yea this was using the silicone insert so the bends didnt flatten, although i know exactly what you are saying though. I cant swap the flow of the pump because it would require a lot of other lines to be redone as the cpu block is directional.

I'll drain it tonight and redo the one line. I just realized i wouldnt be able to add another radiator on the back as the res would get in the way of the lines then, oh well i can live with redoing one i have a lot of extra tubing.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Just a quick update. I did a case swap and ditched the modded h220x acrylic conversion. Went into the Enthoo Primo case, added gpu block, res, and other goodies. Better pics coming soon. For now, and until I can get it into better light with the good camera, here is a quick shot from the ipad. Better pics coming. Im also thinking about adding another res and making a few changes. Since this is my gaming rig I wasnt going crazy with it; more of a simpleton in the realm of custom builds. Next build will make a statement.


----------



## catbuster

edit: wrong thread


----------



## erso44

my watercooling setup will arrive tomorrow so which fan´s do you guys recommend me for great static pressure. I need to compromis a little bit with money...


----------



## Soccerking3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> my watercooling setup will arrive tomorrow so which fan´s do you guys recommend me for great static pressure. I need to compromis a little bit with money...


ap-15 typhoons if you can find them honestly they are worth the cost


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> my watercooling setup will arrive tomorrow so which fan´s do you guys recommend me for great static pressure. I need to compromis a little bit with money...


I've had good experiences with the Corsair SP120s in the past, tho the performance editions can be a bit noisy. The price isn't bad tho, especially since they can come in twin-packs for about $25-30.
NB /Phobya eloops are nice too, but can range $20-25 each.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> my watercooling setup will arrive tomorrow so which fan´s do you guys recommend me for great static pressure. I need to compromis a little bit with money...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> I've had good experiences with the Corsair SP120s in the past, tho the performance editions can be a bit noisy. The price isn't bad tho, especially since they can come in twin-packs for about $25-30.
> NB /Phobya eloops are nice too, but can range $20-25 each.


Yeah the SP120's are a good value. I keep mine at about 950 rpms and they are fairly quite. The eloops great in push mode, but in pull are loud and annoying due to the blade design. I don't know how you plan on running your fans but it's something to consider.

Check out the EK Vardars also. I haven't used them personally, but I've heard nothing but good things about them.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> I've had good experiences with the Corsair SP120s in the past, tho the performance editions can be a bit noisy. The price isn't bad tho, especially since they can come in twin-packs for about $25-30.
> NB /Phobya eloops are nice too, but can range $20-25 each.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Yeah the SP120's are a good value. I keep mine at about 950 rpms and they are fairly quite. The eloops great in push mode, but in pull are loud and annoying due to the blade design. I don't know how you plan on running your fans but it's something to consider.
> 
> Check out the EK Vardars also. I haven't used them personally, but I've heard nothing but good things about them.


Last time I had looked at the 120SP quiet ed they were slinging them (2 pack ) for almost 40$.... At one point I had picked up the same pack on amazon for 25$ a pair. That was cheap.

TCO


----------



## wermad

the hp's usually go for $27.99. I picked up some up from the egg and got the free eggsaver shipping. I'm hoping they go from Socal which Ontrac or Fedex deliver asap. But i'm in no rush tbh since I broke the cardinal rule of upgrades: important part(s) was not sourced/found first







(







).


----------



## emsj86

I like e loops but 20-25 is too much when your talking 8-10 fans. I don't mind my sp120 hp pwm. Cost 25.99 for two from the egg when I got them. And at 700-1200 I can't hear them. Xspc has cheap rad fans. (Not the best but work) phanteks fans out not too bad either.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I like e loops but 20-25 is too much when your talking 8-10 fans. I don't mind my sp120 hp pwm. Cost 25.99 for two from the egg when I got them. And at 700-1200 I can't hear them. Xspc has cheap rad fans. (Not the best but work) phanteks fans out not too bad either.


Want cheaper eLoops? Buy it from _Aquatuning.de_ site, NOT the english site. *.DE* charges Euro, which is on PAR at the moment with US. And, i find the *.DE* site cheaper than the UK or US site.

The UK or English site is a bit expensive, compared to the German site.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

ewww corsair SP fans. GROSS!

lol


----------



## fleetfeather

in true corsair style, those fans strike a priceerformance ratio similar to that of a GTX Titan


----------



## LandonAaron

I knew the corsair haters would come out. My knee alwas starts to hurt when its about to rain Corsair hate.


----------



## Kritikill

Well I have almost completed my first attempt at a custom loop. I have a few things left to take care of. I still have to enclose the power supply, single braid the mobo pwr cable, and sleeve some fans.

Here is the original case:


And the end result = "Fett-ish"


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Yeah the SP120's are a good value. I keep mine at about 950 rpms and they are fairly quite. The eloops great in push mode, but in pull are loud and annoying due to the blade design. I don't know how you plan on running your fans but it's something to consider.
> 
> Check out the EK Vardars also. I haven't used them personally, but I've heard nothing but good things about them.


Loud in pull? Sorry to say but the SP120s in Black Dragon drown out the eLoops that I have currently in pull in RadioActive Dragon. Actually, the eLoops are barely louder than the AP-15s I have.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Loud in pull? Sorry to say but the SP120s in Black Dragon drown out the eLoops that I have currently in pull in RadioActive Dragon. Actually, the eLoops are barely louder than the AP-15s I have.


I would Use Cyclops Fan Comparisons. They are the most in depth tests I've ever seen.

TCO


----------



## khemist

Mine so far.


----------



## electro2u

I've checked it twice now and my flow meter seems to think I get 20 more lph with 2 GPU blocks in parallel than I get with 1 GPU. That's not possible right? So my flow meter is confused or something?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

With 2 GPUs in parallel, I would expect there to be a slight flow increase. That part of the loop now has less resistance, making it easier for the pump to move the water through.

What was it reading before adding the second GPU?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> With 2 GPUs in parallel, I would expect there to be a slight flow increase. That part of the loop now has less resistance, making it easier for the pump to move the water through.
> 
> What was it reading before adding the second GPU?


That's really cool =) Would not have expected that at all.
I am getting 160lph with 1 GPU
and 180lph with 2 GPUs in parallel

Guessing in serial the flow rate would have gone down instead of up?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> With 2 GPUs in parallel, I would expect there to be a slight flow increase. That part of the loop now has less resistance, making it easier for the pump to move the water through.
> 
> What was it reading before adding the second GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> That's really cool =) Would not have expected that at all.
> I am getting 160lph with 1 GPU
> and 180lph with 2 GPUs in parallel
> 
> Guessing in serial the flow rate would have gone down instead of up?
Click to expand...

Overall flow rate decreases slightly with serial but it gives double the flowrate thru the block compared to parallel. Each block in parallel halves the flow thru the blocks,2 is half,3 cards means a third of the flowrate etc.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Corsair SP fans are loud and unpleasant at high speeds, and they are cheaper than GTs or something but end of the day quiet rad pressure only comes from eloops , wing boost 2, and Gentle typhoons. Delta AFB SHE fans are also acceptable rad fans


----------



## emsj86

I like how the sp120 fans can easly be popped off and painted. I plan to get some e loops on my next build but the corsair out nt that bad specially at 1400 rpm and under


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol have you not seen any of the gentle typhoon threads? they have got to be the easiest to get the blades off of for painting.

I won't argue that for their price they are good. But if someone took the time I am sure they could identify some better lower budget fans.
If you are going about how they sound at lower RPMs and plan tunable performancewise the delta AFB SHE fans are probably where its at. I havent played with them yet but I hear nothing but praise


----------



## emsj86

I was mainly speaking from my little experience. I know not everyone likes or feels the same. I'm sure there our other cheap fans late loons, xspc, helix, etc


----------



## tatmMRKIV

helix are the best I think, but last I checked getting them is kind of difficult. They were pretty on par with the GTs being a GT clone and all

Im not talking about likes or feelings, I am talking about facts. testing, numerical datas.

all of these fans have been tested and there shouldnt really be any question to what performs best
the only variances are whether sound levels bother you and if you aren't looking for rad fans

but as far as best performing "quiet" rad fans go that list is it

corsair perform but are easily louder than any of the rest of these fans aside from the deltas but they are supposedly quiet and have amazing static pressure for rads when adjusted correctly


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> helix are the best I think, but last I checked getting them is kind of difficult. They were pretty on par with the GTs being a GT clone and all


they are available on sidewinder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> helix are the best I think, but last I checked getting them is kind of difficult. They were pretty on par with the GTs being a GT clone and all


they are a good cheap fan but they are not on par with GTs not by a mile. That been said I would probably get the helix over the corsair fans any day: cheaper and better sound signature at least for me.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/category/fans/



but if you intend to use fans at really low speeds there is no point in getting super expensive fans since all of them will perfom +- the same at ultra low speeds (except the usual suspects of course like GTs). Just mine









In any case here some of my GTs painted







and ready to go on chessboard build


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ooooo, me likes a lot. How hard was it get the GTs like that? I been kind of debating about modding mine when I get around to building up one of Compact Splashes.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ooooo, me likes a lot. How hard was it get the GTs like that? I been kind of debating about modding mine when I get around to building up one of Compact Splashes.


Thks mate. disassembling the fan is quite easy and painting the blade is a breeze too. The frame is the worse part since the frame itself have tons of holes and crevasses that are difficult to get paint on to those spots. There are good guides here at OCN and you can head over to chessboard log where I describe the process. But a short resume of it is:

heat a bit the sticker and take it out. Get some tools, work on a plastic bag and take the snap ring from the central axis. Blade comes free. Motor can then be twisted and separated from the frame too. With all 3 parts you can then cover in painter tape and paint them.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah as far as budget fans I wasn't able to find much

those enermax fans ( I forget which mode) are actually probably the best cheaper option, assuming they are cheaper.

I have heard good things about them but I wasn't fond of the flashy LEDs and such\

Just stay away from cougar pwm hydro bearing fans, they may be quiet but I don't beleive they move nearly as much air as people say they do. I had a bunch and I sent them back pretty quickly. they were pretty quiet but at times had terrible motor noise and at full speed they were gritty. like they did not sound legit.

they werent very consistent as far as performance goes though I had a bunch and of the 6-8 i tested 2 probably had defects that caused excessive motor noise or something
but really at 100% it was a toss up


----------



## Ceadderman

Great job on those GTs Gabe.









~Ceadder


----------



## wes1099

How hard is it to do a rigid tubing loop without mandrels? I want to convert my loop to acrylic but I do not have very much money to spend on tools, so I just want the bear minimum in order to save money. I am also not quite sure if my H220-X in my loop will be able to use rigid tubing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> How hard is it to do a rigid tubing loop without mandrels? I want to convert my loop to acrylic but I do not have very much money to spend on tools, so I just want the bear minimum in order to save money. I am also not quite sure if my H220-X in my loop will be able to use rigid tubing.


Rigid tubing requires special fittings. You can't use barb fittings or regular compression fittings for rigid tubing. I haven't used rigid tubing yet, but from what I've seen it can be difficult without the proper tools.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> How hard is it to do a rigid tubing loop without mandrels? I want to convert my loop to acrylic but I do not have very much money to spend on tools, so I just want the bear minimum in order to save money. I am also not quite sure if my H220-X in my loop will be able to use rigid tubing.


I say it not to crazy hard without mandrels. I actually got tired of using the mandrels instead used the squares on the floor rug as a guide. Plus, you can always use house whole items as improvised mandrels too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Want cheaper eLoops? Buy it from _Aquatuning.de_ site, NOT the english site. *.DE* charges Euro, which is on PAR at the moment with US. And, i find the *.DE* site cheaper than the UK or US site.
> 
> The UK or English site is a bit expensive, compared to the German site.


Hmmmm, actually not bad price on the .de side. Thanks for that tip since I need to get me a few more eLoops. Actually cheaper than when I got my first three from FrozenCPU. If I know one thing about German stores, they ship stuff fast.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

How much is tubing? might be cheaper to do it right then wind up having to do the same piece several times. I would not want to have my first experience without a mandrel and the proper tools

or atleast some ghetto mandrel or some ghetto tools


----------



## psycho84




----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> How hard is it to do a rigid tubing loop without mandrels? I want to convert my loop to acrylic but I do not have very much money to spend on tools, so I just want the bear minimum in order to save money. I am also not quite sure if my H220-X in my loop will be able to use rigid tubing.


heat gun - you can borrow this of someone if you dont have one
hax saw
silicone insert or a cable of the Inner diameter of the tube.

thats it









i dont know about the H220x but if it has G1/4 threads. just get some barrow rigid fittings (there usually really cheap) & then some matching outer diameter tube & have a go









literally all you need is those 3 things above


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> How much is tubing? might be cheaper to do it right then wind up having to do the same piece several times. I would not want to have my first experience without a mandrel and the proper tools
> 
> or atleast some ghetto mandrel or some ghetto tools


If it is Primochill, Monsoon, etc. they cost a bit more compared to just get some from places like McMastercarr and PlasticTAP.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*


Very nice. The tubing clear or colored? Either way, it sets off that dye color.


----------



## psycho84

Clear Tubing. Fluid is Mayhems Pastel Green.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> heat gun - you can borrow this of someone if you dont have one
> hax saw
> silicone insert or a cable of the Inner diameter of the tube.
> 
> thats it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i dont know about the H220x but if it has G1/4 threads. just get some barrow rigid fittings (there usually really cheap) & then some matching outer diameter tube & have a go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> literally all you need is those 3 things above


kool beans. Hopefully I can try that sometime over the summer after I finish my mITX rig.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> kool beans. Hopefully I can try that sometime over the summer after I finish my mITX rig.












forgot to say sandpaper to bevel the cut edges









so its 4 things haha


----------



## emsj86

Just a suggestion using petg with say primo chill hard line fitting our alit easier for begineer. Cuts don't have to be spot on and the tubing bends alittle easier. Not to say you can't do acrylic bc both options out good. Also in your honest opinion with my build what do you think about me painting the fan blue. Would it be too much. Obviously for looks.


----------



## VSG

Doing some non custom watercooling:


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Doing some non custom watercooling:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


traitor!









JK


----------



## tatmMRKIV

NZXT would probably be better for benching but then again 120 rad isnt much is it?


----------



## VSG

lol those pics were part of reviews I did for the two (NZXT G10 and Corsair HG10 A1) coolers with multiple CLCs (Kraken x41, Hydro H75 and Hydro H110i GT). It included custom loops (both universal block and full cover block) and now that GPU is as a bare PCB only. I will put the FC block back on soon.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol those pics were part of reviews I did for the two (NZXT G10 and Corsair HG10 A1) coolers with multiple CLCs (Kraken x41, Hydro H75 and Hydro H110i GT). It included custom loops (both universal block and full cover block) and now that GPU is as a bare PCB only. I will put the FC block back on soon.


Where can we see your reviews?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Where can we see your reviews?


Most are not going to be on OCN, I am afraid!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Where can we see your reviews?


I don't suppose geggeg (VSG) is allowed to link to his site here, but I think others can, but on the odd chance even that's not copacetic here's a google search link that will get you there just as well ...

https://www.google.com/search?q=ThermalBench


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Last time I had looked at the 120SP quiet ed they were slinging them (2 pack ) for almost 40$.... At one point I had picked up the same pack on amazon for 25$ a pair. That was cheap.
> 
> TCO


I wasn't aware of the price increase. I picked mine up for $25/pair. At $40, there's definitely better options.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Loud in pull? Sorry to say but the SP120s in Black Dragon drown out the eLoops that I have currently in pull in RadioActive Dragon. Actually, the eLoops are barely louder than the AP-15s I have.


They had a loud drone for me in push/pull. When I unplugged the pull fans, no more drone. A quick search will show I'm not the only person to have this problem. If they work for you that's great, they're great fans that just didn't suit my needs. I actually put a few in my brother's pc (in push) and they've been wonderful.


----------



## Ceadderman

Doing some custom water cooling of my own. Having fun voiding warranties of my Swiftech Reference Heatsinks to allow my Thermospheres to fit properly.

Just cut one with my Backsaw in the miterbox and will dremel out the fins so that my blocks will fit properly. Will post pics when I get everything finished.









~Ceadder


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Well, I finally have gotten around to putting the whole thing under water. Temps are down on the cpu by 13c and gpu only gets to around 43c while playn bf4. thats way cooler, and I can actaully tell in the game that it feels almost smoother now being cooler..

I just wish I woulda known that the screws for the 780ti classy backplate would of worked with the EK block.. Well i might have to find some screws that do actually fit the thing, i like the looks of the evga plate better then the EK plate. anyways here is a pic, need to finish up some stuff but what ya'll think? Will post some better pics with my dslr later.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Well, I finally have gotten around to putting the whole thing under water. Temps are down on the cpu by 13c and gpu only gets to around 43c while playn bf4. thats way cooler, and I can actaully tell in the game that it feels almost smoother now being cooler..
> 
> I just wish I woulda known that the screws for the 780ti classy backplate would of worked with the EK block.. Well i might have to find some screws that do actually fit the thing, i like the looks of the evga plate better then the EK plate. anyways here is a pic, need to finish up some stuff but what ya'll think? Will post some better pics with my dslr later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, clean, short runs! Great job!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Well, I finally have gotten around to putting the whole thing under water. Temps are down on the cpu by 13c and gpu only gets to around 43c while playn bf4. thats way cooler, and I can actaully tell in the game that it feels almost smoother now being cooler..
> 
> I just wish I woulda known that the screws for the 780ti classy backplate would of worked with the EK block.. Well i might have to find some screws that do actually fit the thing, i like the looks of the evga plate better then the EK plate. anyways here is a pic, need to finish up some stuff but what ya'll think? Will post some better pics with my dslr later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are some serious looking tubes! (thick)


----------



## wes1099

I just put together a cart full of the things I will need to do rigid tubing after I get my GPU block and 2nd rad, and it will be $130 to upgrade to rigid tubing. Not sure how I am going to find that money, but I will make it happen eventually.


----------



## bracco

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> mmmmmmmm gold






Is that pump/res combo from EK? What was the color/finish on the pump before it was plated?


----------



## emsj86

Been searching for awhile maybe I can get some help here looking to watercool my motherboard Asus z97 pro wifi edition but can't find anything


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Been searching for awhile maybe I can get some help here looking to watercool my motherboard Asus z97 pro wifi edition but can't find anything


To my knowledge Z-series boards don't usually get water cooling options like many of the X-series boards do.
Though, I do know all of the ASUS Z97 RoG boards have full-cover blocks from Bitspower, and a few from EK as well.

But most any other Z97 boards including the A, Pro, Deluxe and WS likely won't have any options available..


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Looks like PerformancePCs got the supremacy MX block laazered


----------



## charliebrown

will a ek tube res top and bottom fit on a bitspower tube res


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> I just wish I woulda known that the screws for the 780ti classy backplate would of worked with the EK block.. Well i might have to find some screws that do actually fit the thing


M3-5x6MM worked for me prior to upgrading to EK plates. The screws I purchased were from Lowes.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> M3-5x6MM worked for me prior to upgrading to EK plates. The screws I purchased were from Lowes.


Thanks will try this out... Gonna try and put it on without taking out the gpu. Since its in a loop now it requires way to much work lol.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Well, I finally have gotten around to putting the whole thing under water. Temps are down on the cpu by 13c and gpu only gets to around 43c while playn bf4. thats way cooler, and I can actaully tell in the game that it feels almost smoother now being cooler..
> 
> I just wish I woulda known that the screws for the 780ti classy backplate would of worked with the EK block.. Well i might have to find some screws that do actually fit the thing, i like the looks of the evga plate better then the EK plate. anyways here is a pic, need to finish up some stuff but what ya'll think? Will post some better pics with my dslr later.


What are those angled fittings you are using? They look nice.


----------



## seanyx11

My 1st gaming rig, 1st Watercooling loop and 2nd PC build overall...not too bad I think.

And yes, I know i could've made the runs a bit shorter, but I liked the idea of having a rad in between each component (970s sort of being one, since it's all one piece with 1 input & 1 output) even though I know it won't make that much of a difference anyway. All in all though, after taking some measurements doing it the other way (pump-mobo-rad-cpu-gpu-rad-rad-pump) it only came out to be saving a few inches of tubing and I still would've had quite a few criss-cross tubes anyway, unless I were to cut holes in the top/back corner to run directly from top 360 to the external 240 and back inside the existing hole. Either way, here she is...


----------



## Retrosmith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanyx11*
> 
> My 1st gaming rig, 1st Watercooling loop and 2nd PC build overall...not too bad I think.


Man, that's beautiful. Your blue and the lighting work really well together, and I love the way the bridge between your cards catches the eye. Excellent!


----------



## Retrosmith

I just found this club, still stumbling my way around here and finding things I never knew about.







I'll join with some pics of a couple of systems I've made.

This was my latest client build, just finished a few days ago. Made for the owner of a local music studio, he decided to call it the Boom Box:













And I made this one for last year's Quakecon case mod competition. Took first place in the Bethesda-themed category and made the cover of CPU magazine. (Not that I'm bragging or anything...)


----------



## seanyx11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrosmith*
> 
> Man, that's beautiful. Your blue and the lighting work really well together, and I love the way the bridge between your cards catches the eye. Excellent!


Thank you sir







I did a lot of work on getting the lighting just right. After going through uv blue and regular blue, ultimately, plain white led looked the cleanest and showed off the blue accent pieces and coolant the best. I went back and forth for the longest time between the black acetal and the acrylic nickel. Normally I'd have chosen black for a clean simple look, but I just loved the thought of being able to see the coolant through the blocks with the integrated LED lights.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanyx11*
> 
> My 1st gaming rig, 1st Watercooling loop and 2nd PC build overall...not too bad I think.
> 
> And yes, I know i could've made the runs a bit shorter, but I liked the idea of having a rad in between each component (970s sort of being one, since it's all one piece with 1 input & 1 output) even though I know it won't make that much of a difference anyway. All in all though, after taking some measurements doing it the other way (pump-mobo-rad-cpu-gpu-rad-rad-pump) it only came out to be saving a few inches of tubing and I still would've had quite a few criss-cross tubes anyway, unless I were to cut holes in the top/back corner to run directly from top 360 to the external 240 and back inside the existing hole. Either way, here she is...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Turned out very well







Also I want your B&W speakers lol


----------



## iBored

hey guys, i wanna properly flush my ss316 pipes in my loop with nitric acid just in case there's some oxide inside. Will it affect the EK nickel plating in the blocks?


----------



## emsj86

Any advise you guys can give me on draining my loop. I have a mini valve on the bottom rad but since both rads only have two ports there is no bleed valve I can only open res cap to let air in. I ask because I can suck out the bottom rad withy a syringe and vinyal tubing but a lot of coolant gets stuck in the top bends and rad. Tilting and shaking only helps so much. Was thinking since I have from work bottles of nitrogen with 1/4 hoses that I could use my regulator for the nitrogen and blow through to blow it out. (Nitrogen is used for finding leaks at work on copper lines. It's perfect because it's dry air no moisture )


----------



## X-Nine

I would not recommend blowing them out. What you have is sufficient, just tilt it. Until you can plan a loop that allows for easier bleed, this will work.


----------



## emsj86

Ok thank you. Yea my next coolant change outside of acrylic panels I will be swapping the bottom rad for a 240 by coolgate the g2 so I can use a 90 off the bottom port and have it drain easier that way. Maybe even add a bleed port to the top rad if possible


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> will a ek tube res top and bottom fit on a bitspower tube res


No. ek have the tap screw thing on the outside of the tube while bitspower have on the inside of the tube.


----------



## caliking420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrosmith*
> 
> I just found this club, still stumbling my way around here and finding things I never knew about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll join with some pics of a couple of systems I've made.
> 
> This was my latest client build, just finished a few days ago. Made for the owner of a local music studio, he decided to call it the Boom Box:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made this one for last year's Quakecon case mod competition. Took first place in the Bethesda-themed category and made the cover of CPU magazine. (Not that I'm bragging or anything...)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow man A+


----------



## DarthBaggins

Very clean work


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Thanks will try this out... Gonna try and put it on without taking out the gpu. Since its in a loop now it requires way to much work lol.


Good luck!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

its funny, everytime i hear a bubble go through my pump shortly after I hear my fans speed up a bit xD


----------



## seanyx11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Turned out very well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I want your B&W speakers lol


Thanks man...haha yeah, B&Ws are pretty nice, definitely my favorite all-around speakers by far. They work great for home theatre, music and games. One day I'll upgrade to the 683, 685 & HTM61...but for now I'm very happy with the 684, 686 & HTM62. Here's a pic of my setup with Denon 2112ci, Panasonic 55" VT50, B&W 684s, HTM62 & 686s (surround speakers on other side of room, not pictured), Martin Logan Dynamo 500 Sub, & Panamax M5300-PM


----------



## mattlyall06

^ that is quite the setup you have there sir.


----------



## seanyx11

I appreciate it







I had the HT setup w/ PS4/Xbone/PS3/Xbox360 already and just added the gaming rig, synology NAS and APC UPS to it.


----------



## guitarhero23

Those of you who are detail fanatics what is the best way to put a sticker on something painted and more specifically plasti-dipped?

I do not own a vinyl printer so looking for something else to use. I will be plasti-dipping my Samsung SSD white, and want to replace the Samsung logo and the square with a different color, I know it's been done before so I'm looking for some recommendations. Thanks.


----------



## wermad

Anyone know if ppcs.com will be having any sales for the up coming holiday? I'm hesitating pulling the trigger in hopes of a bigger discount (vs ocn55)







. Thanks and +1


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know if ppcs.com will be having any sales for the up coming holiday? I'm hesitating pulling the trigger in hopes of a bigger discount (vs ocn55)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks and +1


no coupons on my email so far wermad. I usually get an alert on my email when the coupon is out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Great job on those GTs Gabe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thks mate. A picture of two of the GTs replacing the original Phanteks:

original



GTs:



don't mind the gpu reservoir is running blitz part 2 as I posted. Will be black again soon.


----------



## wermad

That's gorgeous Gabe









Thanks







.

I got parts coming in already but I'm missing the main component (







). Update on back burner unless ppcs.com has a really good discount coming out soon for the Easter holiday (in the US).


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Those of you who are detail fanatics what is the best way to put a sticker on something painted and more specifically plasti-dipped?
> 
> I do not own a vinyl printer so looking for something else to use. I will be plasti-dipping my Samsung SSD white, and want to replace the Samsung logo and the square with a different color, I know it's been done before so I'm looking for some recommendations. Thanks.


i normally use a heatgun to get a sticker off, then use super glue to stick it back on. If you can take it off with a heat gun, you can paint it to your desired color then stick it back with glue. The sticker/log will stick to the Plastidip itself, so when you're ready to repaint, you can easily take off the sticker again.

I did this with my PSU, and now with my EK backplates


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> i normally use a heatgun to get a sticker off, then use super glue to stick it back on. If you can take it off with a heat gun, you can paint it to your desired color then stick it back with glue. The sticker/log will stick to the Plastidip itself, so when you're ready to repaint, you can easily take off the sticker again.
> 
> I did this with my PSU, and now with my EK backplates


Hmm this might work, guess I can try. Figured it would come out much clearer if I printed it though.


----------



## Ceadderman

What am I doing here...



Looks like I am busting yet another warranty. Another will get busted directly after this one is modded









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanyx11*
> 
> Thanks man...haha yeah, B&Ws are pretty nice, definitely my favorite all-around speakers by far. They work great for home theatre, music and games. One day I'll upgrade to the 683, 685 & HTM61...but for now I'm very happy with the 684, 686 & HTM62. Here's a pic of my setup with Denon 2112ci, Panasonic 55" VT50, B&W 684s, HTM62 & 686s (surround speakers on other side of room, not pictured), Martin Logan Dynamo 500 Sub, & Panamax M5300-PM


Would love something from their Nautilus line-up
[/center[


----------



## seanyx11

^lol yeah maybe if I win the lottery...I don't have $45k sitting around


----------



## seanyx11

Though the 800 series ranges from $8k to $20k or so...like the 804 diamond for a cool $7k or 803 for $10kp


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah the 800 Diamond series looks amazing, just found a dealer here in GA that I want to go check out. Might find a Rotel DAC to route my M8 through


----------



## Nichismo




----------



## seanyx11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah the 800 Diamond series looks amazing, just found a dealer here in GA that I want to go check out. Might find a Rotel DAC to route my M8 through


Where in GA do you live? I'm in Snellville, about 45 mins east of Atlanta


----------



## MrGrievous

Hi there everyone so I have this as my setup right now and am =on the fence about the order of the loop. I have a bitspower mini valve that i wanted to use as a drain but its not water tight when it closes, roughly 1 drop leaks every 2 seconds. Is this normal? Heres the loop as it is now, i will chage it around as needed







Should the 2 radiators around and if so how could I do a drain port then?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Hi there everyone so I have this as my setup right now and am =on the fence about the order of the loop. I have a bitspower mini valve that i wanted to use as a drain but its not water tight when it closes, roughly 1 drop leaks every 2 seconds. Is this normal? Heres the loop as it is now, i will chage it around as needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should the 2 radiators around and if so how could I do a drain port then?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> /quote]
> 
> *No it is not normal. it is leaking from where exactly? Even with the cap on it it leaks? from where? the cap, the tap, the connection to the 90 degrees?*


----------



## wermad

Is it leaking where its attached to the angle fitting or the chrome/nickel hex plug?

I have one and it is plugged (xspc plug) and its using a m-m adapter to an extension. I have this setup so the valve is pointing the right direction.

Let me check mine









edit: dry as a bone:



If its leaking on the plug end, you may have a bad valve/ball inside. Might wanna hit up the place you got it from (rma) or BP support. The valve looks to be in the closed position and it doesn't take much to turn it to closed.


----------



## MrGrievous

Yes the valve is as far as I can turn it, if I remove the g 1/4 plug while the valve is shut it drips slowly. Of course this is with the pc off for draining it. I did notice that the valve isn't completely horizontal when it's closed is that normal or a defect on my valve? This is defiantly a defective valve though with the leak. I took the fittings out and filled the 90 with water with the valve closed and these are the results using the fast capture mode on my phone.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Yes the valve is as far as I can turn it, if I remove the g 1/4 plug while the valve is shut it drips slowly. Of course this is with the pc off for draining it. I did notice that the valve isn't completely horizontal when it's closed is that normal or a defect on my valve? This is defiantly a defective valve though with the leak. I took the fittings out and filled the 90 with water with the valve closed and these are the results using the fast capture mode on my phone.


That as far as the valve turns? Looks like it isn't closed all of the way.


----------



## seanyx11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Hi there everyone so I have this as my setup right now and am =on the fence about the order of the loop. I have a bitspower mini valve that i wanted to use as a drain but its not water tight when it closes, roughly 1 drop leaks every 2 seconds. Is this normal? Heres the loop as it is now, i will chage it around as needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should the 2 radiators around and if so how could I do a drain port then?


Nice setup btw








That valve should close more it looks like, so bad valve me thinks. I have a very similar koolance ball valve that I use for my drain valve in almost the exact same spot and it does not leak. Even with the plug off and just the valve closed (which it shouldn't).

As far as order goes, AFAIK it doesn't really matter that much in the grand scheme of things and is mostly aesthetics. Having said that though, I decided to put a radiator in between each one of my components to try and keep the temps as low as possible. I'm by far no expert though, and have only done one WC loop, so take it with a grain of salt...though I'm pretty sure most will agree with what I've said.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Yes the valve is as far as I can turn it, if I remove the g 1/4 plug while the valve is shut it drips slowly. Of course this is with the pc off for draining it. I did notice that the valve isn't completely horizontal when it's closed is that normal or a defect on my valve? This is defiantly a defective valve though with the leak. I took the fittings out and filled the 90 with water with the valve closed and these are the results using the fast capture mode on my phone.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


when opened the valve should have the handle fully aligned with the two g/14 ports. When closed should be 90 degrees of that position. So it seems you have a defective valve. Try to open it and give it a good clean with sponge + mild kitchen soap and rinse thoroughly to get rid of any leftovers of soap. I found the white painting in the bitspower fittings too thick and prone to get the excess removed when you screw in the parts. I wonder if some of that is actually caught on the ball/handle inside preventing you from closing. If that does not solve it is a defective valve and you need to either rma of get another... Sorry to break bad news...


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> That as far as the valve turns? Looks like it isn't closed all of the way.


The handle wont go any further than that point which may be the reason for the leak. Went ahead and opened a RMA request sigh... and just when that last packaged I needed arrived to finish the build off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> when opened the valve should have the handle fully aligned with the two g/14 ports. When closed should be 90 degrees of that position. So it seems you have a defective valve. Try to open it and give it a good clean with sponge + mild kitchen soap and rinse thoroughly to get rid of any leftovers of soap. I found the white painting in the bitspower fittings too thick and prone to get the excess removed when you screw in the parts. I wonder if some of that is actually caught on the ball/handle inside preventing you from closing. If that does not solve it is a defective valve and you need to either rma of get another... Sorry to break bad news...


Ok I will try out some soap first and see if I can get that vavve to 90 degrees.


----------



## Kritikill

I would also look for any dings in the ball itself, along with what Gabe said. Can you remove the ball and handle from the housing?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Good practice is to use a stop plug on the outlet,this stops the issue experienced.
I also concur that the valve is faulty but they are stiff to close fully,don't be afraid to give it a handful.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good practice is to use a stop plug on the outlet,this stops the issue experienced.
> I also concur that the valve is faulty but they are stiff to close fully,don't be afraid to give it a handful.


Funny you say that cause I just tried using more force to close it and lol and behold there was a snap kinda feeling as the valve fully closed .... well dont I feel a bit silly now haha thanks to all those who chipped in


----------



## bracco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Funny you say that cause I just tried using more force to close it and lol and behold there was a snap kinda feeling as the valve fully closed .... well dont I feel a bit silly now haha thanks to all those who chipped in


I had similar trouble with one of mine when it was new, the things take a lot of muscle to operate I guess. Glad it was simple!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bracco*
> 
> I had similar trouble with one of mine when it was new, the things take a lot of muscle to operate I guess. Glad it was simple!


Mine "snaps" as well. It's the white one also, brand new. Just assumed/still assume this is normal


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Funny you say that cause I just tried using more force to close it and lol and behold there was a snap kinda feeling as the valve fully closed .... well dont I feel a bit silly now haha thanks to all those who chipped in


even better! But keep using the end cap on it. It is safer that way because sometimes you might for example forget to close the valve


----------



## NightmareGSX

Here is mine.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> even better! But keep using the end cap on it. It is safer that way because sometimes you might for example forget to close the valve


Hey I see you painted the RAM bracket also. Was it as annoying to tape off as it was for me?







I didn't have a razor blade







.





Build Log


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Hey I see you painted the RAM bracket also. Was it as annoying to tape off as it was for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't have a razor blade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


you did a better job that I did on that painters tape mate. Looks gorgeous. Was not that bad to get the ram painted. The problem was the often small pieces flaking in the process of taking the painters tape out. Now I learned my lesson to give proper cure time for the paint...


----------



## Coolzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanyx11*
> 
> Though the 800 series ranges from $8k to $20k or so...like the 804 diamond for a cool $7k or 803 for $10kp


804 is 7500, 803 is 12k, 802 is 15k (ironically probably the best deal), and the 800 is 24k. I'm gonna get a pair of 683S2 myself before the end of the year, but I reeeally need to start focusing on my PC again... which will eventually include water cooling (running on all Noctua air at the moment).


----------



## seanyx11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolzo*
> 
> 804 is 7500, 803 is 12k, 802 is 15k (ironically probably the best deal), and the 800 is 24k. I'm gonna get a pair of 683S2 myself before the end of the year, but I reeeally need to start focusing on my PC again... which will eventually include water cooling (running on all Noctua air at the moment).


683 are an amazing set of speakers man, I would definitely recommend them. Don't get the 684v2 though, because they are much smaller than 684v1 (what I have) and the same price iirc. My 684s, 686s and htm62 are a great set of speakers for under $2k, I wouldn't trade them for anything quite honestly. Like I said before though, I'll be upgrading to 683s, 685s and htm61 (or maybe the c series if I'm lucky) but I'll still keep the older set for another room or something.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Mine "snaps" as well. It's the white one also, brand new. Just assumed/still assume this is normal


The nickel one is the same. They just feel like you are going to break them when you first get them because of the fresh seals.


----------



## Tomiger

Been a while since I've made any significant upgrades or posted in here. I recently switched over to rigid tubing. This was my first attempt at working with rigid tubing but I think it went pretty good, despite the learning curve for getting the measurements just right. Perhaps it would have been easier with a more "orthodox" case. I had to make some rather interesting bends haha. In hindsight, I could have planned things a bit differently to make the loop more pleasing to the eye (mainly the section going from the radiator to the CPU block). All in all, it was a ton of fun!

So here's my desk build which I did almost 2 years ago. I made this mostly for the fun of the build and making something that looks cool, rather than optimal performance (hence the 2nd reservoir). The section going from the GPU bridge to the radiator was originally going to split off at the t-block to a drain line, but it didn't work out (the drain line wouldn't be low enough to be effective; the disadvantage of having all my components "horizontal". Instead, I plugged the t-block with a stop fitting and it actually works pretty good since I did have to drain it once already).

Unrelating to the water-cooling, I also upgraded the LEDs in the desk to a set of RGB LEDs that can be controlled/programmed via an IR remote. Also splurged on a nice Corsair mechanical keyboard with silly customizable back lighting cuz why not. Running OS X 10.10.2


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I need to paint my ripjaw 4's from blue to red and black
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanyx11*
> 
> Where in GA do you live? I'm in Snellville, about 45 mins east of Atlanta


I'm over in P'Tree Corners area


----------



## fleetfeather

that reservoir placement wouldnt survive a single drunken PvP sesh IMO


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> that reservoir placement wouldnt survive a single drunken PvP sesh IMO


Probably true, but I'm not in college anymore so I don't really have those problems haha. No pets, no kids, etc


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> that reservoir placement wouldnt survive a single drunken PvP sesh IMO


I would probably break it within a month out of sheer clumsiness.


----------



## Kritikill

That rad to GPU terminal looks rowdy. you get it first try? I have a similar tube with 5 bends in it and it wasn't fun.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> That rad to GPU terminal looks rowdy. you get it first try? I have a similar tube with 5 bends in it and it wasn't fun.


Most of my bends took at least 2 tries hahah. It was a lot of trial and error mixed with mistakes from impatience. I ended up with a lot of spare tubing in short sections haha. The reservoir to reservoir and radiator to CPU both took a 24" piece each, with little to no spare tubing at the end.

And despite the precarious external reservoir placement, I've had it like that for almost 2 years in three different apartments/houses, even one with my nephews running around (and one while I was in grad school with the occasional rowdy crowd around)! Never had an issue (knock on wood)


----------



## seanyx11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know I need to paint my ripjaw 4's from blue to red and black
> I'm over in P'Tree Corners area


Wow, small world indeed.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I need some opinions on my upcoming loop, if I should go with bends on the motherboard like this or should I go with only vertical tubes with fill-ports through the mid-plate? I am kind of torn at the moment and I think that the vertical look will look best. Also, the tiny bends and angles between each fitting (cpu and mb-blocks) is kind of looking a bit off if you ask me. Counting the vertical tubes from before gets me to four. So should i just keep on that same track and do all vertical tubing or should I go the "normal" route?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I need some opinions on my upcoming loop, if I should go with bends on the motherboard like this or should I go with only vertical tubes with fill-ports through the mid-plate? I am kind of torn at the moment and I think that the vertical look will look best. Also, the tiny bends and angles between each fitting (cpu and mb-blocks) is kind of looking a bit off if you ask me. Counting the vertical tubes from before gets me to four. So should i just keep on that same track and do all vertical tubing or should I go the "normal" route?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I wish I could see a full example of both then let you know, I'm having a hard time visualizing the full thing done with each example (obviously you can't do this haha). I don't have an answer for you but good luck! Sure you'll make it nice no matter what!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I wish I could see a full example of both then let you know, I'm having a hard time visualizing the full thing done with each example (obviously you can't do this haha). I don't have an answer for you but good luck! Sure you'll make it nice no matter what!


Okay, well ... I could do it, only need one more tiny little bend to make the "visual" comparison, but I think I might just go with the vertical tubing so that I wont need to re-do it in a little while because it is to "mainstream", beside the measuring and bending is pretty much the same anyways.


----------



## bundymania




----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics


Awesome looking block...but I have to ask...what is up with the water in that res? Looks really discolored.


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Awesome looking block...but I have to ask...what is up with the water in that res? Looks really discolored.


plastilizer from the tubing. sys. is running for several years with the same hose


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Awesome looking block...but I have to ask...what is up with the water in that res? Looks really discolored.
> 
> 
> 
> plastilizer from the tubing. sys. is running for several years with the same hose
Click to expand...

just dont care or is it a science experiment?


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Been a while since I've made any significant upgrades or posted in here. I recently switched over to rigid tubing. This was my first attempt at working with rigid tubing but I think it went pretty good, despite the learning curve for getting the measurements just right. Perhaps it would have been easier with a more "orthodox" case. I had to make some rather interesting bends haha. In hindsight, I could have planned things a bit differently to make the loop more pleasing to the eye (mainly the section going from the radiator to the CPU block). All in all, it was a ton of fun!
> 
> So here's my desk build which I did almost 2 years ago. I made this mostly for the fun of the build and making something that looks cool, rather than optimal performance (hence the 2nd reservoir). The section going from the GPU bridge to the radiator was originally going to split off at the t-block to a drain line, but it didn't work out (the drain line wouldn't be low enough to be effective; the disadvantage of having all my components "horizontal". Instead, I plugged the t-block with a stop fitting and it actually works pretty good since I did have to drain it once already).
> 
> Unrelating to the water-cooling, I also upgraded the LEDs in the desk to a set of RGB LEDs that can be controlled/programmed via an IR remote. Also splurged on a nice Corsair mechanical keyboard with silly customizable back lighting cuz why not. Running OS X 10.10.2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh my...goodness


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> plastilizer from the tubing. sys. is running for several years with the same hose


Is that your test rig for components? If so, are you not concerned that the plasticizer could be affecting things?


----------



## wermad

I never saw anything back 2011 when the plasticizer blew up. But the gunk can get to things, such as the fins of blocks. I'm sure since bundy is switching gear frquently for his work, it's probably not in their long enough for some considerable build up tbh.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Getting Anxious for the Fittings. Placed order Today!!



TCO


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is that your test rig for components? If so, are you not concerned that the plasticizer could be affecting things?


already washed out and i clean new rads with proper CB/water method
and i have a filter.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Question for water cooling experts. Putting together my second loop in a few days (whenever my stuff gets here from PPCs), expanding my H240x to include an SR1 and Titan X. I want to get a drain valve for my system, but I see that there are apparently no drain valves for 10x16mm tubing, but Koolance does make them for 10x13mm. Will that Drain valve work with 10x16mm tubing?

Also as far as where to put the drain valve, I'm going to be putting my SR1 at the very bottom of my Enthoo Pro case. If I put the drain valve on one of the hoses going to that bottom radiator, would I be able to drain out all the water in the system? I don't really see anyway else I can put it any lower.

Thanks


----------



## wermad

You can use a t or junction adapter to add a drain system. Some just use a plug, or a qdc, or a valve. It is recommended to place the drain as low as possible, but the main thing is to drain some of the liquid to help you with loop disco/break-down. It may take some head scratching to drain the rest but you can also blow on a drained line/tube. Also, some go with traditional plastic tube for the drain.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can use a t or junction adapter to add a drain system. Some just use a plug, or a qdc, or a valve. It is recommended to place the drain as low as possible, but the main thing is to drain some of the liquid to help you with loop disco/break-down. It may take some head scratching to drain the rest but you can also blow on a drained line/tube. Also, some go with traditional plastic tube for the drain.


OK thanks for the help!

What exactly is a "junction" though if you don't mind me asking. Couldn't find anything like that in a search on PPCs or Amazon. I did find some T-fittings though.


----------



## wermad

Like a "Y" adapter or a multiport manifold.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Like a "Y" adapter or a multiport manifold.


Thanks! Appreciate the help.


----------



## wermad

Np


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Board and blocks ready for the EK Vulture build.


----------



## tipes

Hey guys,
Looking for a bit of advice. first off my spec for you:-
Asus R5E
5960X
16GB Gskill 3200 DDR4
Mayhems 480 Rad
Koolance 450PMPS D5 pump
Koolance tube res with block for PMPS pump

Just wondering how much difference air in the system can make to temps - reason I ask is when testing at 4.4Ghz my temps have risen by about 10-12 degrees
from where they were. I have recently changed to hard-line tubing, but everything else remains the same. Ambient temps about 20 deg.

Could my tim have gone off suddenly(4 months old, when I built the rig) or could my chip have degraded? I don't run 4.4 all the time - usually dial back to 4 for everyday.
I have noticed the flow seems a bit slow for a d5 especially seeing as this one runs at 5700-5800rpm. Could it be a simple airlock, or should I re do the tim? Any other ideas?

Maybe the mayhems rad is more restrictive? used to use an Alphacool ut60 480.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Mark


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Sorry to be a bother again, but would someone mind explaining to me exactly how rotary fittings work. While looking into how I want to put my loop together I see that I am really going to want some 90 degree angle fitters. I found these rotary fittings on Amazon for a good price http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Rotary-Fitting-Chrome-4-pack/dp/B00NODE3SA/ref=sr_1_15?m=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1427747862&sr=1-15 . Am I correct in assuming these rotary fittings plug into a G1/4 port on one side and then you plug your compression fitting into the other side to attach the tubing? Are these things fairly leak proof?

Thanks again.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Sorry to be a bother again, but would someone mind explaining to me exactly how rotary fittings work. While looking into how I want to put my loop together I see that I am really going to want some 90 degree angle fitters. I found these rotary fittings on Amazon for a good price http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Rotary-Fitting-Chrome-4-pack/dp/B00NODE3SA/ref=sr_1_15?m=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1427747862&sr=1-15 . Am I correct in assuming these rotary fittings plug into a G1/4 port on one side and then you plug your compression fitting into the other side to attach the tubing? Are these things fairly leak proof?
> 
> Thanks again.


Yes that's exactly how it works. The purpose of the rotary is so you can screw it in tight, but still change the way the G1/4 port is facing. If you didn't have a rotary you would be forced to tighten it and just use it at whatever way it happens to be facing when it won't turn anymore. And yes you would add another fitting on the other side, whether it be a barb for soft tubing or some type of rigid compression fitting. They work fine, although I'm not familiar with the one you linked (know the brand, never seen that fitting) so someone else will have to speak to that


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Sorry to be a bother again, but would someone mind explaining to me exactly how rotary fittings work. While looking into how I want to put my loop together I see that I am really going to want some 90 degree angle fitters. I found these rotary fittings on Amazon for a good price http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Rotary-Fitting-Chrome-4-pack/dp/B00NODE3SA/ref=sr_1_15?m=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1427747862&sr=1-15 . Am I correct in assuming these rotary fittings plug into a G1/4 port on one side and then you plug your compression fitting into the other side to attach the tubing? Are these things fairly leak proof?
> 
> Thanks again.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Yes that's exactly how it works. The purpose of the rotary is so you can screw it in tight, but still change the way the G1/4 port is facing. If you didn't have a rotary you would be forced to tighten it and just use it at whatever way it happens to be facing when it won't turn anymore. And yes you would add another fitting on the other side, whether it be a barb for soft tubing or some type of rigid compression fitting. They work fine, although I'm not familiar with the one you linked (know the brand, never seen that fitting) so someone else will have to speak to that
Click to expand...

I have two of the XSPC 90 degree adapters in my loop and haven't had a single problem from either one.


----------



## Stateless

I am looking into doing a rebuild. What do you guys use to control all the fans you have on the RADS? I am thinking of going from 3 fans on a RAD to 6 for each RAD, so that would be a total of 18 fans.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I am looking into doing a rebuild. What do you guys use to control all the fans you have on the RADS? I am thinking of going from 3 fans on a RAD to 6 for each RAD, so that would be a total of 18 fans.


Swiftech Fan controller THese work great.

The Cautious ONe

EDIT: or Phobia


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Swiftech Fan controller THese work great.
> 
> The Cautious ONe
> 
> EDIT: or Phobia


Now is it safe to run splitters off those hubs?
I do have an Aquacomputer PS 2 Ultra at my disposal as well since I know I have around 20+ fans I need to power


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Now is it safe to run splitters off those hubs?










OH Man... You would have to check the voltage that a sata wire going from the psu would run at compared to how many watts your are pulling from the fans... I am not sure..

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Board and blocks ready for the EK Vulture build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking great B.


----------



## Ceadderman

What is the voltage/wattage of your fans? Cause that will have an impact on what you will be able to use. Lots of coolers are using Aquaro. I use a Sunbeam Rheosmart3.









~Ceadder


----------



## Stateless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Swiftech Fan controller THese work great.
> 
> The Cautious ONe
> 
> EDIT: or Phobia


Can that be plugged into a fan controller instead of the Motherboard to easily change speed of the fans or is better just to have it on the Mobo instead?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Can that be plugged into a fan controller instead of the Motherboard to easily change speed of the fans or is better just to have it on the Mobo instead?


The swiftech could be controlled Via Fan controller (I would assume, Someone else can chime in also)

What Do you want to use? A fan controller... (Lamptron, Aquero... ETC) or something that you can put anywhere....?

The First one (Swiftech is powered Via Sata connection) and could go anywhere and Is also pmw adjustable (Depending on what fan you choose)

The Cautious ONe


----------



## pompss

Guys
Need an awesome font for my Ek titan x waterblock.I need to paint it white like my build and add TITAN X IN RED .
any suggestion are welcome
Thanks


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Does this look like a fairly decent setup?



I know the picture is crude but hopefully it gets the point across. Blue for blocks/rads, red for tubing, and then on the bottom the purple is the t-fitting for use as a drain port, and then the lavender is an in-line sensor to plug into my Sentry 3 for monitoring loop temp. I would rather mount the Black Ice SR1 in the front rather than the bottom but as I understand there isn't enough clearance.

Also I realize the hose from the GPU will not be that far to the right, that was for demonstration mostly.


----------



## Stateless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The swiftech could be controlled Via Fan controller (I would assume, Someone else can chime in also)
> 
> What Do you want to use? A fan controller... (Lamptron, Aquero... ETC) or something that you can put anywhere....?
> 
> The First one (Swiftech is powered Via Sata connection) and could go anywhere and Is also pmw adjustable (Depending on what fan you choose)
> 
> The Cautious ONe


I am considering running it to my Lamptron fan controller. I am still in the planning stages of doing this. Any advice on the best fans to attach to the radiators for the best cooling?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I am considering running it to my Lamptron fan controller. I am still in the planning stages of doing this. Any advice on the best fans to attach to the radiators for the best cooling?


If you are using a Lamptron then you will use voltage controlled fans. The fan choice or recommendation is really a pandora box mate in the sense that anyone seems to love their own fans and recommend it. At one hand there are few fans that really shine through a rad and distinct themselves from other fans (GTs is still king of the hill). On the other hand if you plan to run fans at very low rpm then most fans will perform more or like the same and the question then becomes more about aesthetics and noise signature than anything else. You can check cyclops fan review here at ocn and outdated (a bit) but still quite useful Martin's review to have a grasp. But if you don't mind the black and grey theme GTs are one of the few safe bets out there. There are other fans that perform well. Pavrum/Alpenhon (but are PWM controlled):

http://www.performance-pcs.com/parvum-systems-f1-0-performance-pressure-optimised-fan-black.html#Details
http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/component/content/category/15-auslaufmodelle

and if using 140 mm rads Phanteks and Prolimatech are good choices. People like the noiseblockers too.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/category/fans/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you are using a Lamptron then you will use voltage controlled fans. The fan choice or recommendation is really pandora box mate in the sense that anyone seems to love their own fans and recommend it. At one hand there are few fans that really shine through a rad and distinct themselves from other fans (GTs is still king of the hill). On the other hand if you plan to run fans at very low rpm then most fans will perform more or like the same and the question then becomes more about aesthetics and noise signature than anything else. You can check cyclops fan review here at ocn and outdated (a bit) but still quite useful Martin's review to have a grasp. But if you don't mind the black and grey theme GTs are one of the few safe bets out there. There are other fans that perform well. Pavrum/Alpenhon (but are PWM controlled):
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/parvum-systems-f1-0-performance-pressure-optimised-fan-black.html#Details
> http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/component/content/category/15-auslaufmodelle
> 
> and if using 140 mm rads Phanteks and Prolimatech are good choices.
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/


I knew someone would show up to help









Gabes got it down pat.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OH Man... You would have to check the voltage that a sata wire going from the psu would run at compared to how many watts your are pulling from the fans... I am not sure..
> 
> TCO


Lol I was only planning on running maybe 6 or so per controller and use multiple controllers to split up the power usage and to prevent a flaming M8


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol I was only planning on running maybe 6 or so per controller and use multiple controllers to split up the power usage and to prevent a flaming M8


Oh I understand. But if you have 6 connection with 6 splitters, you would have 12 fans eh?

HighPerformance use .18a each while the Quiet Ed use only .08a.

I know that the Lamptron Fan controller I have, allows maybe 20watts a channel.

I don't know how to convert electricity... Please don't ask. But I run a splitter on each channel. Runs like a top.

So to use the 8 way splitter with sata power... then the 4pin from the 8 way splitter to control the Rpms... I am not sure how that would work? The power for the fans would be delievered through the sata.. then the actual signal for the speed could be adjusted through the Lamptron?

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh I understand. But if you have 6 connection with 6 splitters, you would have 12 fans eh?
> 
> HighPerformance use .18a each while the Quiet Ed use only .08a.
> 
> I know that the Lamptron Fan controller I have, allows maybe 20watts a channel.
> 
> I don't know how to convert electricity... Please don't ask. But I run a splitter on each channel. Runs like a top.
> 
> So to use the 8 way splitter with sata power... then the 4pin from the 8 way splitter to control the Rpms... I am not sure how that would work? The power for the fans would be delievered through the sata.. then the actual signal for the speed could be adjusted through the Lamptron?
> 
> TCO


Well I know I can control via the Mobo (Asus RVE) so that's not an issue but as of right now I know there will be 14 Fans in the Pedestal (12 intake and 2 exhaust) 2 AP-14's as intake on the PSU side of the main case, another 120 in the floor as an exhaust from the ped into the main case and then another 120 on the mobo side as an exhaust (towards the top of the main case). Also might install a 240 and 360 in the top section (still debating that at the moment) so that would be a possible added 10 fans on top of the added other exhaust fans I will have on the main case.

Also I keep digging for a Aquero 5 Pro or the 6 at a good deal..


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Guys
> Need an awesome font for my Ek titan x waterblock.I need to paint it white like my build and add TITAN X IN RED .
> any suggestion are welcome
> Thanks


Is it a theme build? If so, what theme? Do you plan on hand or spray painting? Solid color or highlighted?


----------



## blueballs




----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blueballs*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No offense, because it is a clean build, and I am a fan of the 540...but isn't posting that here a little bit like bringing a knife to a gunfight?


----------



## blueballs

I just found out that thread and i read this : To join this club simply post pics of your COMPLETE rig in THIS THREAD and I will add you to the list. The rules are not strict, ANY form of liquid cooling is good; that includes users of products like the Corsair H50.

So maybe my build isn't a custom water cooling one but i'm still proud of his stylish/classy appearance.
When I'm done with my s2k track car ill post a full custom water cooling build!


----------



## DarthBaggins

All I see is a liquid cooled rig, sure it's an AiO. But last I checked AiO is still watercooled







Over-all clean build that has future potential to grow


----------



## jon666

Water is the best thing that has ever been dropped on PC's. If you aren't making your own parts, then you can't criticize anyone else for the parts chosen. My first time watercooling, and I think I went overboard with two gpus, cpu, and two 360 rads, but I figured if I would dive in it might as well be in the deep part of the pool. The overclocking potential has greatly improved.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

forget the PC post picks of s2k track car


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Water is the best thing that has ever been dropped on PC's. If you aren't making your own parts, then you can't criticize anyone else for the parts chosen. My first time watercooling, and I think I went overboard with two gpus, cpu, and two 360 rads, but I figured if I would dive in it might as well be in the deep part of the pool. The overclocking potential has greatly improved.


that's like me I just did a gpu and cpu though. A 420 rad a 140 rad and a 240 rad







no such thing as overkill.


----------



## naved777

This is my first time water cooling


----------



## Ceadderman

My Kingdom for a scroll saw with 5" of clearance! Dremeling these heatsinks is gonna take until Jesus walks the earth again. But they're coming along.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Looking for a bit of advice. first off my spec for you:-
> Asus R5E
> 5960X
> 16GB Gskill 3200 DDR4
> Mayhems 480 Rad
> Koolance 450PMPS D5 pump
> Koolance tube res with block for PMPS pump
> 
> Just wondering how much difference air in the system can make to temps - reason I ask is when testing at 4.4Ghz my temps have risen by about 10-12 degrees
> from where they were. I have recently changed to hard-line tubing, but everything else remains the same. Ambient temps about 20 deg.
> 
> Could my tim have gone off suddenly(4 months old, when I built the rig) or could my chip have degraded? I don't run 4.4 all the time - usually dial back to 4 for everyday.
> I have noticed the flow seems a bit slow for a d5 especially seeing as this one runs at 5700-5800rpm. Could it be a simple airlock, or should I re do the tim? Any other ideas?
> 
> Maybe the mayhems rad is more restrictive? used to use an Alphacool ut60 480.
> 
> Any advice greatly appreciated.
> 
> Mark


an overclock can definitely increase temps. After oc'ing, my temps rose as normal, using more power = generates more heat. So, to make sure I comprehend, you noticed the difference after you switched from the UT60 to the Mayhems rad?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naved777*
> 
> This is my first time water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice mid-plate


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naved777*
> 
> This is my first time water cooling


Very sleek design, that GPU is beckoning for some water







. I had the opportunity to visit Abu Dhabi in 2014 for the IDEX show. Enjoyed myself tremendously.


----------



## Deeptek

Add me to the club


----------



## charliebrown

is that uv coolant man thats nice


----------



## kl6mk6

EK blocks and pump/res combo, Black ice and koolance rads, bitspower connectors, and Primoflex tubing.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lian li has some really nice cases out havent seen anything with these other than the one yet

LIAN LI PC-Q30X
Lian-Li Case PC-V359WB
Lian-Li PC-T80X


----------



## Turbz

Not far to go on Midnight Express. Just needs leak testing (a nightmare so far), cable training, lighting and proper photos done.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Not far to go on Midnight Express. Just needs leak testing (a nightmare so far), cable training, lighting and proper photos done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why has leak testing been a nightmare?


----------



## Turbz

First test failed and I didn't notice until coolant was pouring out of the mobo tray. Broke the loop down and started ordering parts for an air leak tester as per b negs guide. Was polishing the bends and broke the most complex one. Took 6 attempts to make it perfect again. Now trying to fix a leak in my leak tester. Leaky Schrader valve. Fun!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> First test failed and I didn't notice until coolant was pouring out of the mobo tray. Broke the loop down and started ordering parts for an air leak tester as per b negs guide. Was polishing the bends and broke the most complex one. Took 6 attempts to make it perfect again. Now trying to fix a leak in my leak tester. Leaky Schrader valve. Fun!


Ahhh so that's what led to the post on Reddit I saw about your broken bend.


----------



## Turbz

I think the term is "failure cascade"


----------



## erso44

Which cpu cooler is actually the best for SB (socket 2011). I don't care this time about money. I'm looking for performance.
I have a nexus xp3 light but will send it back soon.


----------



## Hefner

Everytime I read about leaks I obsessively check my rig to check if there's any, makes me paranoid as hell


----------



## Mark011

Can I join the club? Here some pictures of my Project Prime


----------



## Angrychair

insane work by everyone on this entire page!


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Add me to the club


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanEl*
> 
> 
> 
> Add me to the club


what coolant is that?


----------



## Mongoose135

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Can I join the club? Here some pictures of my Project Prime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build! looks amazing


----------



## USMC Modder

Does anyone know if the EK anti-vibration feet for the DDC housing will fit the Bitspower pump housing?


----------



## bundymania




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Does anyone know if the EK anti-vibration feet for the DDC housing will fit the Bitspower pump housing?


SHould be the exact thread. The link wouldnt pull up but if this is for the DDC Housing/Heatsink they are 99% identical EK/Bitspower.

@ITDiva would know.

TCO


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> an overclock can definitely increase temps. After oc'ing, my temps rose as normal, using more power = generates more heat. So, to make sure I comprehend, you noticed the difference after you switched from the UT60 to the Mayhems rad?
> nice mid-plate


Hi, thanks for the reply,

Bit confused here - am suspecting that my new koolance 450pmps d% pump may be faulty, although it is running at 5700+ rpm the flow seems slow. This alone would not cause such a rise in temps. Just wondering if there is still an airlock somewhere? Presumably a pump should just work or not, how can you test that?

I am definitely seeing temps of 10-13 degrees more than I used to with same bios settings and clock - will double check bios and re set and re apply settings - other than that I don't know, but sure am disappointed at the moment. Just as I thought I had my rig all set.

Mark


----------



## everclearhero

Finally put back together and leak tested. I swear it spends more time on the workbench being modded than actually running lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Hi, thanks for the reply,
> 
> Bit confused here - am suspecting that my new koolance 450pmps d% pump may be faulty, although it is running at 5700+ rpm the flow seems slow. This alone would not cause such a rise in temps. Just wondering if there is still an airlock somewhere? Presumably a pump should just work or not, how can you test that?
> 
> I am definitely seeing temps of 10-13 degrees more than I used to with same bios settings and clock - will double check bios and re set and re apply settings - other than that I don't know, but sure am disappointed at the moment. Just as I thought I had my rig all set.
> 
> Mark


What changed before you noticed the difference? New pump?


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> is that uv coolant man thats nice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> what coolant is that?


This is Mayhems Pastel Blueberry. Not UV. Just a crappy camera ;-)


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanEl*
> 
> This is Mayhems Pastel Blueberry. Not UV. Just a crappy camera ;-)


Looks wicked good though


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanEl*
> 
> This is Mayhems Pastel Blueberry. Not UV. Just a crappy camera ;-)


That's a bad ass crappy camera those pics are sweet


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> That's a bad ass crappy camera those pics are sweet


Galaxy Note 4 lol


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> SHould be the exact thread. The link wouldnt pull up but if this is for the DDC Housing/Heatsink they are 99% identical EK/Bitspower.
> 
> @ITDiva would know.
> 
> TCO


I've see. A few builds using the ek feet on the bitspower seems to work just fine


----------



## emsj86

So for those water cooling amd Gpus. Do they overclock well under water and our there certain ones that work be tender water than others. I ask because the new release freesync monitors really caught my eye specially with the 300 dollar cheaper price tag


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What changed before you noticed the difference? New pump?


Thinking about it the only change I have made is going to Hardline tubing apart from the change of radiator - have since given the machine a good on/off with just pump running on spare psu, and jiggled the machine in all directions - got a lot more air out, but still not convinced of decent flow. will check temps under load again and report back. The strange thing is you would have expected my temps to be slightly better as the gpu is not in the loop at the moment Weird???????

Mark


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Thinking about it the only change I have made is going to Hardline tubing apart from the change of radiator - have since given the machine a good on/off with just pump running on spare psu, and jiggled the machine in all directions - got a lot more air out, but still not convinced of decent flow. will check temps under load again and report back. The strange thing is you would have expected my temps to be slightly better as the gpu is not in the loop at the moment Weird???????
> 
> Mark


The S model is the fixed D5 (equivalent to the variable @ #4). Are you adjusting the voltage or have it @ 24v? I have a variable D5 set to #5 at 12v. I'll check the speed when I get home. The hard line may have added more restriction but still it shouldn't have that much of a dramatic change. I'm suspecting the new rad and fans could be the culprit. Other then this, it could be a large trapped pocket of air or gunk/debris in your block. Does your setup have a gpu in the loop as well?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Thinking about it the only change I have made is going to Hardline tubing apart from the change of radiator - have since given the machine a good on/off with just pump running on spare psu, and jiggled the machine in all directions - got a lot more air out, but still not convinced of decent flow. will check temps under load again and report back. The strange thing is you would have expected my temps to be slightly better as the gpu is not in the loop at the moment Weird???????
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> 
> The S model is the fixed D5 (equivalent to the variable @ #4). Are you adjusting the voltage or have it @ 24v? I have a variable D5 set to #5 at 12v. I'll check the speed when I get home. The hard line may have added more restriction but still it shouldn't have that much of a dramatic change. I'm suspecting the new rad and fans could be the culprit. Other then this, it could be a large trapped pocket of air or gunk/debris in your block. Does your setup have a gpu in the loop as well?
Click to expand...

Why would the fans be a culprit of a low flow rate?









The rad is almost certainly the problem,however with no flow meter we are relying on observation......which cannot be applied to flow rate


----------



## wermad

Please go back and read the other posts. He's seeing a 10+ on cpu's temps. Changes are: ut60>mayhem rad, hardline, and D5 fixed. He keeps going back to the pump (@ +5k rpm), but I feel it's something else in terms of higher cpu temps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ditto. What B said.









~Ceadder


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The S model is the fixed D5 (equivalent to the variable @ #4). Are you adjusting the voltage or have it @ 24v? I have a variable D5 set to #5 at 12v. I'll check the speed when I get home. The hard line may have added more restriction but still it shouldn't have that much of a dramatic change. I'm suspecting the new rad and fans could be the culprit. Other then this, it could be a large trapped pocket of air or gunk/debris in your block. Does your setup have a gpu in the loop as well?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why would the fans be a culprit of a low flow rate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rad is almost certainly the problem,however with no flow meter we are relying on observation......which cannot be applied to flow rate


This gets even stranger - after spending some time getting a large amount of air out of the system - I thought maybe that would do it, but the small bubbles which you get are hardly moving at all which leads me to think there is a flow problem or blockage somewhere. Tested aida again and temps went straight up to 80-88 degrees on 6 of the eight cores. The rad is stone cold - mind you only ran it for a couple of minutes at those temps.
Something is drastically wrong here me thinks. Think tomorrow I am going to have to swap out the pump and try that, if no different it would suggest either a blockage in the cpu block or radiator????

This is getting really tedious now and annoying. My temps used to be mid 60s to early seventies at this clock. Grrrrrrr

Mark


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why would the fans be a culprit of a low flow rate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rad is almost certainly the problem,however with no flow meter we are relying on observation......which cannot be applied to flow rate


Starting to think you may be right - you think it is the rad - so
do I, groan - see my later post for more info.

Thanks

Mark


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The S model is the fixed D5 (equivalent to the variable @ #4). Are you adjusting the voltage or have it @ 24v? I have a variable D5 set to #5 at 12v. I'll check the speed when I get home. The hard line may have added more restriction but still it shouldn't have that much of a dramatic change. I'm suspecting the new rad and fans could be the culprit. Other then this, it could be a large trapped pocket of air or gunk/debris in your block. Does your setup have a gpu in the loop as well?


I thought the 450s was the strong model wermad, the one that can go up to 24 v and actually increase rpm and flow. In that case are the OP using the 24 v adapter from koolance? Because koolance data show that the 450s at 12 v actually under perform a regular d5 (450). Not sure why would be that way but here are straight from koolance page:



in regard to the rad yes, the Havoc is more restrictive that other rads. The data can be seen at extremerigs review done by fast fate.

edit -@tipes, if you are getting no flow and temps are spiking like that then is not either the rad nor the pump to fault but something in the loop. Hate to ask and please don't be offended but have you check the direction of flow, the in and out, of your pump top and cpu block? There is only one pump in the loop correct?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i dunno the pump very well could be bad, like if the bearing or whatever is bad or the rotor is stripped somehow, maybe pump top is not configured or installed correctly? those mayhems rads are supposed to be nice, and pretty clean if I recall the posts in the mayhems club correctly, therre is a rad cleaner they sell though which is basically specific ratios of acid
I suggest asking over in the mayhems thread


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The S model is the fixed D5 (equivalent to the variable @ #4). Are you adjusting the voltage or have it @ 24v? I have a variable D5 set to #5 at 12v. I'll check the speed when I get home. The hard line may have added more restriction but still it shouldn't have that much of a dramatic change. I'm suspecting the new rad and fans could be the culprit. Other then this, it could be a large trapped pocket of air or gunk/debris in your block. Does your setup have a gpu in the loop as well?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why would the fans be a culprit of a low flow rate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rad is almost certainly the problem,however with no flow meter we are relying on observation......which cannot be applied to flow rate
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This gets even stranger - after spending some time getting a large amount of air out of the system - I thought maybe that would do it, but the small bubbles which you get are hardly moving at all which leads me to think there is a flow problem or blockage somewhere. Tested aida again and temps went straight up to 80-88 degrees on 6 of the eight cores. The rad is stone cold - mind you only ran it for a couple of minutes at those temps.
> Something is drastically wrong here me thinks. Think tomorrow I am going to have to swap out the pump and try that, if no different it would suggest either a blockage in the cpu block or radiator????
> 
> This is getting really tedious now and annoying. My temps used to be mid 60s to early seventies at this clock. Grrrrrrr
> 
> Mark
Click to expand...

Here is a very simple test,blow in to one port of the rad,there should be no resistance to your breath,if there is resistance then the rad has a manufacturing defect,no surprised given the quad pass end tank,could of easily gone bad during final fabrication.
The temps shooting up straight away indicates no flow,even a passive rad can dissipate heat so even minimal flow will have an effect.

Full speed D5's are around 4500RPM too....what is producing the 5000RPM figure?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i dunno the pump very well could be bad, like if the bearing or whatever is bad or the rotor is stripped somehow, maybe pump top is not configured or installed correctly? those mayhems rads are supposed to be nice, and pretty clean if I recall the posts in the mayhems club correctly, therre is a rad cleaner they sell though which is basically specific ratios of acid
> I suggest asking over in the mayhems thread


I doubt the pump has gone bad unless its stopped completely,a knackered D5 sounds like a gravel truck going thru a wood chipper


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I thought the 450s was the strong model wermad, the one that can go up to 24 v and actually increase rpm and flow. In that case are the OP using the 24 v adapter from koolance? Because koolance data show that the 450s at 12 v actually under perform a regular d5 (450). Not sure why would be that way but here are straight from koolance page:
> 
> 
> 
> in regard to the rad yes, the Havoc is more restrictive that other rads. The data can be seen at extremerigs review done by fast fate.
> 
> edit -@tipes, if you are getting no flow and temps are spiking like that then is not either the rad nor the pump to fault but something in the loop. Hate to ask and please don't be offended but have you check the direction of flow, the in and out, of your pump top and cpu block? There is only one pump in the loop correct?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i dunno the pump very well could be bad, like if the bearing or whatever is bad or the rotor is stripped somehow, maybe pump top is not configured or installed correctly? those mayhems rads are supposed to be nice, and pretty clean if I recall the posts in the mayhems club correctly, therre is a rad cleaner they sell though which is basically specific ratios of acid
> I suggest asking over in the mayhems thread


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Here is a very simple test,blow in to one port of the rad,there should be no resistance to your breath,if there is resistance then the rad has a manufacturing defect,no surprised given the quad pass end tank,could of easily gone bad during final fabrication.
> The temps shooting up straight away indicates no flow,even a passive rad can dissipate heat so even minimal flow will have an effect.
> 
> Full speed D5's are around 4500RPM too....what is producing the 5000RPM figure?
> I doubt the pump has gone bad unless its stopped completely,a knackered D5 sounds like a gravel truck going thru a wood chipper


Hi Guys,

Getting very frustrated here, but just to confirm for you all I am using the D5 strong pump with the 24V controller. The temps rise very quickly within first 30 secs of Aida stress test - up to 82-85 degrees which suggests to me there is insufficient flow - cant believe it. The pump is not making any excessive noise, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is working ok, but it should be????

I am thinking now that I should tear the whole lot down again, and maybe substitute a known working spare ordinary D5, and maybe chang the rad back to the UT60. I fail to believe that the smaller diameter hardline tubing could be an issue, and I am sure the flow direction is correct as they are marked in/out, but could they be marked wrongly?????.

Which would be best way forward here guys? Much obliged for all your help for a fellow water cooler, and enthusiast - not so enthuistic at the moment though. Grrrrrrr

Mark


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Getting very frustrated here, but just to confirm for you all I am using the D5 strong pump with the 24V controller. The temps rise very quickly within first 30 secs of Aida stress test - up to 82-85 degrees which suggests to me there is insufficient flow - cant believe it. The pump is not making any excessive noise, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is working ok, but it should be????
> 
> I am thinking now that I should tear the whole lot down again, and maybe substitute a known working spare ordinary D5, and maybe chang the rad back to the UT60. I fail to believe that the smaller diameter hardline tubing could be an issue, and I am sure the flow direction is correct as they are marked in/out, but could they be marked wrongly?????.
> 
> Which would be best way forward here guys? Much obliged for all your help for a fellow water cooler, and enthusiast - not so enthuistic at the moment though. Grrrrrrr
> 
> Mark


Mark, have you by any chance disassemble the cpu block? If so sometimes if you don't pay attention when you put back the block you can mount things in a way that will severely block the flow. It is always nice to test the components out of the loop. Certainly it is not the acrylic the problem here so you can rule out that. What I would do is take the pump and rad out and do a simple loop connecting both out of the case and check for flow and working. B neg give you a simple way to test the rad too. If both rad and pump work out of the system then you might have a blockage at some point in the loop. Another thing that can happen is the fitting been to long for some blocks and when you screw it in it will block the flow. Pictures of your loop and description of components would help us to help you.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Playstation 2 Portable







lol


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Mark, have you by any chance disassemble the cpu block? If so sometimes if you don't pay attention when you put back the block you can mount things in a way that will severely block the flow. It is always nice to test the components out of the loop. Certainly it is not the acrylic the problem here so you can rule out that. What I would do is take the pump and rad out and do a simple loop connecting both out of the case and check for flow and working. B neg give you a simple way to test the rad too. If both rad and pump work out of the system then you might have a blockage at some point in the loop. Another thing that can happen is the fitting been to long for some blocks and when you screw it in it will block the flow. Pictures of your loop and description of components would help us to help you.


Hi Gabriel,

Just to confirm I have not taken the cpu block apart since I have had it a Koolance 380. Bear with me and I will post some pics of the loop to help you guys with helping me Lol. be right back.

Mark


----------



## tatmMRKIV

maybe there is gunk in the block then.

easiest way to test rad other than blowing in it would just be to fill it with water on one hole and see if any comes out the other


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok Mark no problem mate. But if you can take the components out (rad and pump) and test them out of the case that would be a good way to go. It is always a good thing to test all components out of the case in a test loop. That way you can catch leaks, problems well before the loop is complete in the case. In the same way is always wise to air leak test your loop. These are two things people in general should be doing that will help a lot not running in to problems while building custom loops.

on a side note I need some help folks. Is there a 101 on building custom acrylic reservoirs? I set my mind on building one for the grey matter but that is uncharted territory for me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok Mark no problem mate. But if you can take the components out (rad and pump) and test them out of the case that would be a good way to go. It is always a good thing to test all components out of the case in a test loop. That way you can catch leaks, problems well before the loop is complete in the case. In the same way is always wise to air leak test your loop. These are two things people in general should be doing that will help a lot not running in to problems while building custom loops.
> 
> on a side note I need some help folks. Is there a 101 on building custom acrylic reservoirs? I set my mind on building one for the grey matter but that is uncharted territory for me.


Im sure SEBAR did one,I can help you with that also.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok Mark no problem mate. But if you can take the components out (rad and pump) and test them out of the case that would be a good way to go. It is always a good thing to test all components out of the case in a test loop. That way you can catch leaks, problems well before the loop is complete in the case. In the same way is always wise to air leak test your loop. These are two things people in general should be doing that will help a lot not running in to problems while building custom loops.
> 
> on a side note I need some help folks. Is there a 101 on building custom acrylic reservoirs? I set my mind on building one for the grey matter but that is uncharted territory for me.


Will have to test with good old flexible tubing outside of the case - will do blow test on rad, and if it looks necessary take the cpu block apart to clean etc.

Thanks for all your help guys - very much appreciated. helps with the frustration lol.

Mark


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im sure SEBAR did one,I can help you with that also.


Thanks B, I found this one.

http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/2

Mine will be a rectangular one. I even have the dimensions already: 70 mm x 157 mm x 190 mm. Outlet on the bottom feeding the pump on the bottom chamber and inlet on top right side wall. I figure I would need 6 pieces of cast acrylic 2x 157 x 70 (top and bottom), 2x 190 x 70 (front and back) and 2x 157 x 190 (both lateral walls). I even found a place local who sell the acrylic cast sheets in the custom length I want on any thickness. Was thinking in going for 6 mm thick. Then there is the question of welding together and taping the inlet and outlet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Will have to test with good old flexible tubing outside of the case - will do blow test on rad, and if it looks necessary take the cpu block apart to clean etc.
> 
> Thanks for all your help guys - very much appreciated. helps with the frustration lol.
> 
> Mark


taking the cpu block might not be a bad idea since a bad mounting of the block can also have nasty effects on temps. Yeah, definitely use soft tube for testing loop out of the case.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im sure SEBAR did one,I can help you with that also.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks B, I found this one.
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/2
> 
> *Mine will be a rectangular one*. I even have the dimensions already: 70 mm x 157 mm x 190 mm. Outlet on the bottom feeding the pump on the bottom chamber and inlet on top right side wall. I figure I would need 6 pieces of cast acrylic 2x 157 x 70 (top and bottom), 2x 190 x 70 (front and back) and 2x 157 x 190 (both lateral walls). I even found a place local who sell the acrylic cast sheets in the custom length I want on any thickness. Was thinking in going for 6 mm thick. Then there is the question of welding together and taping the inlet and outlet.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Will have to test with good old flexible tubing outside of the case - will do blow test on rad, and if it looks necessary take the cpu block apart to clean etc.
> 
> Thanks for all your help guys - very much appreciated. helps with the frustration lol.
> 
> Mark
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> taking the cpu block might not be a bad idea since a bad mounting of the block can also have nasty effects on temps. Yeah, definitely use soft tube for testing loop out of the case.
Click to expand...

I have experience of making these.....


----------



## tatmMRKIV

how hard is that btw? I have acrylic adhexive as well as a 2ftx3ft sheet of 1/4inch thick acrylic
I am thinking of making something for dinoflaggelletes


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> how hard is that btw? I have acrylic adhexive as well as a 2ftx3ft sheet of 1/4inch thick acrylic
> I am thinking of making something for dinoflaggelletes


To use the solvent weld method i use,you will need the parts CNC milled to get the perfect mating faces.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have experience of making these.....


Yeah, I remember that one. Clos3 Impact was an epic build. Lumo is even more impacting in terms of sensible choice of materials, clockwork position of pieces and craftmanship. That is why I voted on it for MOTM even if the overall color is not one I would have in my own system. Those things I could easily relay on and appreciate the work and ingenuity involved. Well done mate. So yeah, any advice or guides on the custom reservoir would be great. 6 mm is an ok thickness or going even larger thickness will help prevent crazing?

EDIT - ok just phoned the company. They sell a sheet of 2 x 1 m (I guess I will have plenty to spare and do mistakes) and the rough cut the sheet to my custom size but do not finishing on it. Which means I would need to sand it down so I can weld together. Would that work out?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> To use the solvent weld method i use,you will need the parts CNC milled to get the perfect mating faces.


the solvent I have can't be used with smooth edges so I think I am good on that front. I have no way to access any cnc unfortunately.. atleast not without paying some 350$ a month to use some workshop place thats 40miles away from my house

i see, yeah I am SOL


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have experience of making these.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I remember that one. Clos3 Impact was an epic build. Lumo is even more impacting in terms of sensible choice of materials, *clockwork position of pieces* and craftmanship. That is why I voted on it for MOTM even if the overall color is not one I would have in my own system. Those things I could easily relay on and appreciate the work and ingenuity involved. Well done mate. So yeah, any advice or guides on the custom reservoir would be great. 6 mm is an ok thickness or going even larger thickness will help prevent crazing?
Click to expand...

Yeah..it only comes apart and goes together one way,very tricky.

In Win have asked me to do something with the 901 so expect more in that vein.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Hi Gabriel,
> 
> Just to confirm I have not taken the cpu block apart since I have had it a Koolance 380. Bear with me and I will post some pics of the loop to help you guys with helping me Lol. be right back.
> 
> Mark


Go back to stock everything. If you still can't figure the higher temps I would recommend switching back to the ut60.

Edit: I also have the 380. Which orientation do you have it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hello ek PE rads. Beautiful rads and nice finishing in black. I almost feel bad to taking them apart and painting. Almost












Now goodbye black rads. Those are going into "grey matter"


----------



## DarthBaggins

I do have to say I love the look of the PE's 4 or 6 would look nice in my M8 lol


----------



## Wolfsbora

Speaking of painting rads, is anyone in here using an airbrush to do their work? I want to paint some of the watercooling parts for the [email protected] rig. I'm considering getting a middle of the road kind of kit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Speaking of painting rads, is anyone in here using an airbrush to do their work? I want to paint some of the watercooling parts for the [email protected] rig. I'm considering getting a middle of the road kind of kit.


Get a Neo Iwata kit


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get a Neo Iwata kit


this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Compressor-HP-S51K-BCN-starter-airbrush-japan/dp/B006O5XZ9I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427836361&sr=8-3&keywords=Neo+Iwata+kit


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get a Neo Iwata kit


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this one?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Compressor-HP-S51K-BCN-starter-airbrush-japan/dp/B006O5XZ9I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427836361&sr=8-3&keywords=Neo+Iwata+kit


Oooo... That's classy. Btw, did you read the shipping on it? $191.92 + $108.34 shipping


----------



## KuuFA

Hey guys is there going to be any issues if i run the reservoir like this?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Oooo... That's classy. Btw, did you read the shipping on it? $191.92 + $108.34 shipping


Yeah...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Hey guys is there going to be any issues if i run the reservoir like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


what you mean mate the long internal return line tube? That would be too close to the outlet to the pump and the level of the reservoir would be small since water would usually stay a bit above the end of the internal tube. One solution is just to cut out a piece of the internal tube. Was that your concern?


----------



## snef




----------



## wermad

Coming along nicely


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what you mean mate the long internal return line tube? That would be too close to the outlet to the pump and the level of the reservoir would be small since water would usually stay a bit above the end of the internal tube. One solution is just to cut out a piece of the internal tube. Was that your concern?


Yeah I didn't want to have to cut it though







I mean it looks like the old XSPC one that I am currently using now....



Are their any issues with using it like that? I mean If i have to cut it or just omit it I can do that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice paint job! it looks awesome!


----------



## Devildog83

There is something missing.







I was hoping the Aurora gold was more gold. There has to be something I can add to bring out the gold.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Hey guys is there going to be any issues if i run the reservoir like this?


what top is that?
it looks like an ek top and a BP top had a baby and it is marvelous


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Hey guys is there going to be any issues if i run the reservoir like this?


I dont see any problem but be warned if you don't keep it pretty full you may have a vortex that could suck air into your loop the internal return pipe may disrupt it enough though. You can fix it with one of those anti cyclone fittings or a lage pore sponge.


----------



## snef

now under normal light


----------



## Buehlar

Stop doing ^^that^^ everywhere!


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what top is that?
> it looks like an ek top and a BP top had a baby and it is marvelous


Its an alphacool cooplex pro 10 lt and while its a bit small I kinda like it lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I dont see any problem but be warned if you don't keep it pretty full you may have a vortex that could suck air into your loop the internal return pipe may disrupt it enough though. You can fix it with one of those anti cyclone fittings or a lage pore sponge.


alright just need to get an anti cyclone fitting and call it a day i suppose... would it make it harder for the pump though?


----------



## emsj86

Just to make sure. In getting another 780 to sli. My motherboard is the Asus z97 pro wifi see picture. I would use first to x16 slots out of the three. Now I want a plexi terminal I think I need a 3 slot terminal as this board space between the first two slots would be a 3 slot. Am I right or so I need a 2 slot terminal. Thanks in advance.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> now under normal light
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sparkley


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just to make sure. In getting another 780 to sli. My motherboard is the Asus z97 pro wifi see picture. I would use first to x16 slots out of the three. Now I want a plexi terminal I think I need a 3 slot terminal as this board space between the first two slots would be a 3 slot. Am I right or so I need a 2 slot terminal. Thanks in advance.


EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial/parallel 3-Slot(Example). Dual 3 slot to be more specific. Parallel or Serial depending how you go.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Can I join the club? Here some pictures of my Project Prime
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


@Mark011 You have your water flowing up and into your gpu? Does that effect temps or is that a valid way to setup a loop?

And a general question to all, is it possible to run that same loop layout with sli/xfire, using an EK terminal?

That turned out beautifully by the way


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> @Mark011 You have your water flowing up and into your gpu? Does that effect temps or is that a valid way to setup a loop?
> 
> And a general question to all, is it possible to run that same loop layout with sli/xfire, using an EK terminal?
> 
> That turned out beautifully by the way


It should not effect it in any way. The fluid will move through the system at any angle. My GPU is fed from a Rad mounted on the bottom of the case. I have used the EK Dual Serial in my loop, but it is top fed. EK does not show any inlets at the bottom of the block, but I would imagine that you could just reverse them.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Plastidip backplate turned out better than i expected







. Build Log HERE


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Plastidip backplate turned out better than i expected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Build Log HERE


Nice!

Did someone say plastidip?





















Build Log


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like you buildin that EK setup for Ru Paul, snef.











In all seriousness, looks awesome though.









Mite havta plastidib my BP fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> Did someone say plastidip?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


It really is a nice thing to work with, very delicate though







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like you buildin that EK setup for Ru Paul, snef.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness, looks awesome though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ru paul would be proud, haha. Snef and B-neg are my modding idols


----------



## Kritikill

lulz


----------



## KellzX

My first post to OCN

thermaltake v71 case (painted white)
Intel i7-4790k (4.6ghz)
EK nickel/acetyl cpu wb
Maximus VII hero 271821779530
Evga GTX 780 Ti (hydro copper coming this week)
Crucial Ballistix ram 16gb
Evga supanova 750 G2 psu
XSPC ex360 rad w/ 3 so 120 HP edition
Front intake fans sickle flow 120 x 3
bitspower multi-z 250mm reservoir
Mayhem dye (red)
Primochill tubing 3/8 x 5/8
Monsoon black chrome fittings
Alphacool pump vpp655


----------



## Kritikill

I was thinking more along the line of the King


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KellzX*
> 
> My first post to OCN
> 
> thermaltake v71 case (painted white)
> Intel i7-4790k (4.6ghz)
> EK nickel/acetyl cpu wb
> Maximus VII hero 271821779530
> Evga GTX 780 Ti (hydro copper coming this week)
> Crucial Ballistix ram 16gb
> Evga supanova 750 G2 psu
> XSPC ex360 rad w/ 3 so 120 HP edition
> Front intake fans sickle flow 120 x 3
> bitspower multi-z 250mm reservoir
> Mayhem dye (red)
> Primochill tubing 3/8 x 5/8
> Monsoon black chrome fittings
> Alphacool pump vpp655


Welcome, I am pretty new here myself. Where are the pics to ogle over?


----------



## KellzX




----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Its an alphacool cooplex pro 10 lt and while its a bit small I kinda like it lol.


no the acrylic pumptop you are using


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> @Mark011 You have your water flowing up and into your gpu? Does that effect temps or is that a valid way to setup a loop?
> 
> And a general question to all, is it possible to run that same loop layout with sli/xfire, using an EK terminal?
> 
> That turned out beautifully by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should not effect it in any way. The fluid will move through the system at any angle. My GPU is fed from a Rad mounted on the bottom of the case. I have used the EK Dual Serial in my loop, but it is top fed. EK does not show any inlets at the bottom of the block, but I would imagine that you could just reverse them.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I wasn't sure if the blocks were designed to be optimized to flow one way or the other but I suppose a single card can accept input from either side too. Back to my original loop idea then if there aren't any problems running it from the bottom, up (or bottom side port actually).


----------



## Kritikill

If you look at the Key you will notice that the arrow are listed as input or output. Also, it says you have to use an extender to use the bottom port as it is recessed. They do provide it in the kit, it has a chrome finish.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> It really is a nice thing to work with, very delicate though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Ru paul would be proud, haha. Snef and B-neg are my modding idols


It's SOOOO delicate lol. I damaged part of it right before I took the pictures







had to do a patch job.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> It's SOOOO delicate lol. I damaged part of it right before I took the pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had to do a patch job.


If you apply thicker layers, you'll be less likely to ruin things.







(but you probably already knew that) lol


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> If you apply thicker layers, you'll be less likely to ruin things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (but you probably already knew that) lol


Yea but the detail level of the underneath plummets







. have to ride the fine line between the two


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> Did someone say plastidip?
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


Did you disassemble the cpu block?


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> no the acrylic pumptop you are using


ah that is also an alphacool d5 pump top


----------



## tatmMRKIV

OK thanks lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> @Mark011 You have your water flowing up and into your gpu? Does that effect temps or is that a valid way to setup a loop?
> 
> And a general question to all, is it possible to run that same loop layout with sli/xfire, using an EK terminal?
> 
> That turned out beautifully by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should not effect it in any way. The fluid will move through the system at any angle. My GPU is fed from a Rad mounted on the bottom of the case. I have used the EK Dual Serial in my loop, but it is top fed. EK does not show any inlets at the bottom of the block, but I would imagine that you could just reverse them.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmm, I wasn't sure if the blocks were designed to be optimized to flow one way or the other but I suppose a single card can accept input from either side too. Back to my original loop idea then if there aren't any problems running it from the bottom, up (or bottom side port actually).
Click to expand...

Alot of it depends on your block(s). If there is directional flow, you don't want to run your Inlet in your Outlet.

Similar to how EK sets up their GPU blocks similarly to their CPU setups as well. Like my Thermospheres could be mistaken for my Supremacy HF if I were to focus directly on the fins when taking a pic. So if you're not having to worry about the direction then it works. If you have to worry which is which then no, that would likely not work. But in this case he has it setup correctly.









Anyone know if I can use both ports atop the bridge without having to add anything and keep it flush and leak free? I've the Parralel bridge and while my fitting bites the threads, I'm not gonna simply trust it not to leak in that countersunk location.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Alot of it depends on your block(s). If there is directional flow, you don't want to run your Inlet in your Outlet.
> 
> Similar to how EK sets up their GPU blocks similarly to their CPU setups as well. Like my Thermospheres could be mistaken for my Supremacy HF if I were to focus directly on the fins when taking a pic. So if you're not having to worry about the direction then it works. If you have to worry which is which then no, that would likely not work. But in this case he has it setup correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if I can use both ports atop the bridge without having to add anything and keep it flush and leak free? I've the Parralel bridge and while my fitting bites the threads, I'm not gonna simply trust it not to leak in that countersunk location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have no idea. It is counter sunk, so either use an adapter or mill down the fitting to make the seal. Either way you don't get to keep the fitting flush.


----------



## MrGrievous

Hmmm maybe I should of used plasti dip myself.. o well too late now lol













On a side note how can I post a image larger than 500x1000?


----------



## Kritikill

Don't think you can. Most just rick click on the pic and open it in a new window to see it full size.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Hmmm maybe I should of used plasti dip myself.. o well too late now lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note how can I post a image larger than 500x1000?


Edit your image before you post by increasing the width and height to a greater value.









Eg.
I edited the above pic from width/*500*/height/*1000* to width/*1000*/height/*2000*

BTW Great job on the backplate...plasty dip or not...awesome build


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Alot of it depends on your block(s). If there is directional flow, you don't want to run your Inlet in your Outlet.
> 
> Similar to how EK sets up their GPU blocks similarly to their CPU setups as well. Like my Thermospheres could be mistaken for my Supremacy HF if I were to focus directly on the fins when taking a pic. So if you're not having to worry about the direction then it works. If you have to worry which is which then no, that would likely not work. But in this case he has it setup correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if I can use both ports atop the bridge without having to add anything and keep it flush and leak free? I've the Parralel bridge and while my fitting bites the threads, I'm not gonna simply trust it not to leak in that countersunk location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea. It is counter sunk, so either use an adapter or mill down the fitting to make the seal. Either way you don't get to keep the fitting flush.
Click to expand...

+Rep for the input.

~Ceadder


----------



## hamed599

This is my first job was not completed yet


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> This is my first job was not completed yet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very cool









i love that midplate


----------



## mus1mus

*Why on Earth?*

http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> *Why on Earth?*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/


Only 1k euro


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> *Why on Earth?*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/


holy bejesus!

ill make anyone a 2meter tube res for half that & still laugh my nads off!

1000 euro is just insane


----------



## Elloquin

Um...It's April 1st lol.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did you disassemble the cpu block?


Well, I did to polish it, but because of where the O-ring was and stuff I didn't feel comfortable leaving it exposed (well taped up) correctly during painting and didn't want to risk doing anything wrong in painting that might make it leak onto my new CPU so I put it back together after polishing and taped it up and painted it assembled.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> *Why on Earth?*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/


HAHAHAHAHAHHA

Srsly wut tu fack


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> This is my first job was not completed yet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's sweet! Where did you go to get the acrylic floor shapes cut? I have a couple ideas I've been tossing around, something like that being one of them but can't figure out if a trophy shop that can do it or a laser place is best. Not looking to spend too much because that would be silly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> holy bejesus!
> 
> ill make anyone a 2meter tube res for half that & still laugh my nads off!
> 
> 1000 euro is just insane


"You can use our EK Cooling Configurator to find out if your case can fit this reservoir."

LOL


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> *Why on Earth?*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/


I laughed so hard,a little bit of wee came out.....


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> *Why on Earth?*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/581/19/EK-introduces-EK-XRES-D5-PWM-2000-Limited-Edition/
> 
> 
> 
> I laughed so hard,a little bit of wee came out.....
Click to expand...

 obviously none of you are Irish, its a yard or schooner of coolant..duh.


----------



## ranerX3

just refreshed my build lately

here are some pics:


----------



## everclearhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> This is my first job was not completed yet


Nice build!







All those vertical tubing runs really give it a clean look.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> This is my first job was not completed yet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


+ Rep. Great work! I am very impressed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> obviously none of you are Irish, its a yard or schooner of coolant..duh.


Im Irish! That's a lot of Lager.


----------



## 1Quickchic

Very nice rig hammed


----------



## 1Quickchic

Does my rig qualify to get me in the club?



I am still not finished, just ordered the GPS blocks so once they are here and in I'll be closing the case all up.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup it's cooled by water


----------



## Alex132

Have any of you guys used plastidip before, and had the color be...wrong? My girlfriend wanted to paint some of her case parts and stuff "Blaze Pink" but it is DEFINTELY not pink.

Pic



Spoiler: How Blaze Pink should look















She also said it was very rough









Any ideas what could have happened? Bad batch of plastidip?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Have any of you guys used plastidip before, and had the color be...wrong? My girlfriend wanted to paint some of her case parts and stuff "Blaze Pink" but it is DEFINTELY not pink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How Blaze Pink should look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She also said *it was very rough*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas what could have happened? Bad batch of plastidip?


Rough... ? I would have never thought that plasti dip was smooth... Pretty sure you would have to actually sand and paint for that effect.

TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Have any of you guys used plastidip before, and had the color be...wrong? My girlfriend wanted to paint some of her case parts and stuff "Blaze Pink" but it is DEFINTELY not pink.
> 
> Pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How Blaze Pink should look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She also said it was very rough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas what could have happened? Bad batch of plastidip?


Plastidip is pretty rough in nature that i've experienced. I mean one of it's purposes is to spray on handles of tools to make them rough! On full cars I suspect they use a variant or a different technique? Not sure though. Also I don't know if a primer helps or not, was the logo thing black originally?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Rough... ? I would have never thought that plasti dip was smooth... Pretty sure you would have to actually sand and paint for that effect.
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Plastidip is pretty rough in nature that i've experienced. I mean one of it's purposes is to spray on handles of tools to make them rough! On full cars I suspect they use a variant or a different technique? Not sure though. Also I don't know if a primer helps or not, was the logo thing black originally?


Okay so the roughness is fine if that's meant to be there.

But, no primer was used - so if a white primer was used the overall color would be much lighter? I didn't think primer would actually affect plastidip the same way as paint (because plastidip is well, plastic?)

Apparently the color is the same on the 295X2 metal housing (aluminum and very light silver in color), although it looks a bit pinker in this image - it's still not as pink as it should be.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Okay so the roughness is fine if that's meant to be there.
> 
> But, no primer was used - so if a white primer was used the overall color would be much lighter? I didn't think primer would actually affect plastidip the same way as paint (because plastidip is well, plastic?)
> 
> Apparently the color is the same on the 295X2 metal housing (aluminum and very light silver in color), although it looks a bit pinker in this image - it's still not as pink as it should be.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not 100% on the primer, was just wondering if possibly that would be it but I'm not sure how the pink works.

This is my result of spraying it on black with no primer but I used white.

Note that this is probably 9 coats










So in terms of color matching I'm at a loss, I have a can of blue I could test with on something black to see, haven't gotten around to it.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Not 100% on the primer, was just wondering if possibly that would be it but I'm not sure how the pink works.
> 
> This is my result of spraying it on black with no primer but I used white.
> 
> Note that this is probably 9 coats
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in terms of color matching I'm at a loss, I have a can of blue I could test with on something black to see, haven't gotten around to it.


Was the first coat kinda gray-ish then? (because of the black thermal armor combined with white plastidip) and did it slowly turn pure-white over the coats?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Was the first coat kinda gray-ish then? (because of the black thermal armor combined with white plastidip) and did it slowly turn pure-white over the coats?


I wouldn't necessarily say it was grey, it just was white with lots of black showing. Basically it never really changed color, just after every coat less and less of the originally color showed through...if that makes sense. That's why I wonder if yours would change at all with it being a color and not just black or white...Would you like me to test with my blue tonight? I will post pictures after every coat on something that is black, I have the Blaze Blue.


----------



## ranerX3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> This is my first job was not completed yet


this is your first water build ? or your first hard tube build ?

anyhow this is impressive man one of the best looking water rigs I have seen









just trying to understand what is this box near the RAM and the 24pin connector to the MB ?
also what case is this ?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Was the first coat kinda gray-ish then? (because of the black thermal armor combined with white plastidip) and did it slowly turn pure-white over the coats?
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't necessarily say it was grey, it just was white with lots of black showing. Basically it never really changed color, just after every coat less and less of the originally color showed through...if that makes sense. That's why I wonder if yours would change at all with it being a color and not just black or white...Would you like me to test with my blue tonight? I will post pictures after every coat on something that is black, I have the Blaze Blue.
Click to expand...

That would be awesome, thanks


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranerX3*
> 
> this is your first water build ? or your first hard tube build ?
> 
> anyhow this is impressive man one of the best looking water rigs I have seen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just trying to understand what is this box near the RAM and the 24pin connector to the MB ?
> also what case is this ?


Bitspower Matte Black HD Liquid Cooler - HD-S350


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Have any of you guys used plastidip before, and had the color be...wrong? My girlfriend wanted to paint some of her case parts and stuff "Blaze Pink" but it is DEFINTELY not pink.
> 
> Pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How Blaze Pink should look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She also said it was very rough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas what could have happened? Bad batch of plastidip?


If she had sprayed about 3 coats of white first, the finished product would have definitely been a lighter pink color because she wouldn't need too much coats of blaze pink. Colors like pink and lemon green need a white base for the best finish. That's unless one is going for dark pink (which is what she ended up with).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> That would be awesome, thanks


I would have to agree with a light undertone before spraying this "Pink" in which you speak of.

The Car picutre you had in question could have had an undercoat (Primer) of white in which red was sprayed on in light coats to accomplish the "Pink" effect. I would think the same of plasics your are spraying.

TCO

A black primer wouldn't lighten red. Gray or White would have that effect once Red was sprayed on top it it.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> If she had sprayed about 3 coats of white first, the finished product would have definitely been a lighter pink color because she wouldn't need too much coats of blaze pink. Colors like pink and lemon green need a white base for the best finish. That's unless one is going for dark pink (which is what she ended up with).


I'll also try the blue on the white to show you @Alex132


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/eykVtD6rj

Better pic of my Fractal R5.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/eykVtD6rj
> 
> Better pic of my Fractal R5.


Pretty! I too bought a white Black Ice GTS for my current build. Whoch bracket did you use to attach the RES to the rad?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Pretty! I too bought a white Black Ice GTS for my current build. Whoch bracket did you use to attach the RES to the rad?


The Bitspower water tank mount with clamp set, i put some thin foam tape inside the brackets to give extra grip to take the additional weight of the pump.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> The Bitspower water tank mount with clamp set, i put
> some thin foam tape inside the brackets to give extra grip to take the additional weight of the pump.


Could you link me when you get a chance. Im wondering if its the one im thinking of.

and/or could you take a picture of your setup? pretty please?


----------



## khemist

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_19&products_id=2495 + http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81091426&kind2=23


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> This is my first job was not completed yet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice mate. Is that Bitspower HD block the acrylic or acetal one? If it is the acrylic taking the plate out will look nice since then you can see the flow inside.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranerX3*
> 
> this is your first water build ? or your first hard tube build ?
> 
> anyhow this is impressive man one of the best looking water rigs I have seen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just trying to understand what is this box near the RAM and the 24pin connector to the MB ?
> also what case is this ?


That little box is the aquacomputer flow meter.


----------



## Trestles126

I don't think I ever posted final pics here

This is my luxe build first pc I built in over 12 years.... Had such a blast and have been working 85 hour weeks for the last 7 weeks I splurged and bought a charcol caselabs s8 to transfer everything over into as well as add a 360 rad a ram block and a 5.25 aquatube bay mount just for looks

I did the same thing on the luxe build in the small window with the aquatube cause well I always wanted one of these when I was into computers 12 years ago

Build pics of the S8 to come soon.

Here are some pics of the luxe before I dissemble her


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Oooo... That's classy. Btw, did you read the shipping on it? $191.92 + $108.34 shipping


Ouch, you can probably find a decent or even nice one at a art store or place like Hobby Lobby or Micheal's.

Still need to get one myself. One for doing some airbrush artwork plus make it easier on me when I want to paint computer parts.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It fits!









BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD!

SKULLS FOR THE SKULL THRONE!

SPAGHETTI FOR DINNER!


----------



## Kritikill

Very sleek.


----------



## fasttracker440

Hey all. Just wanted to check and see if anyone has had problems with acrylic tubing drooping. My VGA loop has about a 21 inch horizontal run from the pump to the rad. After about 2 weeks of folding on and off with 4 290x's the pipe came lose and blew coolant all over the place. Nothing was damaged luckily just a big mess and a serious *** moment. When i pulled the pipe out I noticed it was no longer straight but had a serious dip in it. Is this isolated to me and my bad luck or has it occurred before? I could replace it with something else as it is hidden but i got a few more long runs and I worry about them as well. I am not sure on water temps but cards were only 65c under load. and it takes a serious shot from a heat gun to bend so i do not see how it could be but its all i can come up with.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasttracker440*
> 
> Hey all. Just wanted to check and see if anyone has had problems with acrylic tubing drooping. My VGA loop has about a 21 inch horizontal run from the pump to the rad. After about 2 weeks of folding on and off with 4 290x's the pipe came lose and blew coolant all over the place. Nothing was damaged luckily just a big mess and a serious *** moment. When i pulled the pipe out I noticed it was no longer straight but had a serious dip in it. Is this isolated to me and my bad luck or has it occurred before? I could replace it with something else as it is hidden but i got a few more long runs and I worry about them as well. I am not sure on water temps but cards were only 65c under load. and it takes a serious shot from a heat gun to bend so i do not see how it could be but its all i can come up with.


It takes a serious shot from a heatgun to bend acrylic quickly, but leave it outside in the sun for a week between two saw horses, and it will have a bend. 21" is still not that long of a run, but maybe the fact that it was 24/7 folding and had the added weight of the water was enough to bend it. 65C? so that translates into what...maybe 40C (wild guess) water temps?

I don't know for sure...but sounds possible.


----------



## Somasonic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> This is my first job was not completed yet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Awesomeness!


As others have said this looks great! What coolant are you using, I love the color









Cheers.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasttracker440*
> 
> Hey all. Just wanted to check and see if anyone has had problems with acrylic tubing drooping. My VGA loop has about a *21 inch horizontal run from the pump to the rad.* After about 2 weeks of folding on and off with 4 290x's the pipe came lose and blew coolant all over the place. Nothing was damaged luckily just a big mess and a serious *** moment. When i pulled the pipe out I noticed it was no longer straight but had a serious dip in it. Is this isolated to me and my bad luck or has it occurred before? I could replace it with something else as it is hidden but i got a few more long runs and I worry about them as well. I am not sure on water temps but cards were only 65c under load. and it takes a serious shot from a heat gun to bend so i do not see how it could be but its all i can come up with.


That will do it...far too long a run to be unsupported.

I should update the acrylic thread on this,there is a limit on unsupported pipe work.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> It takes a serious shot from a heatgun to bend acrylic quickly, but leave it outside in the sun for a week between two saw horses, and it will have a bend. 21" is still not that long of a run, but maybe the fact that it was 24/7 folding and had the added weight of the water was enough to bend it. 65C? so that translates into what...maybe 40C (wild guess) water temps?
> 
> I don't know for sure...but sounds possible.


My PC folds for weeks on end and my acrylic hasn't bent, sagged, or cracked since I built it last year. I am running 2 fully overclocked 780 Ti SCs and an OC'd i7 3770k all crammed in a modded Corsair 550D. Acrylic is used for various applications outside of PC watercooling where hot water is used. Much hotter than a watercooled PC.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Go back to stock everything. If you still can't figure the higher temps I would recommend switching back to the ut60.
> 
> Edit: I also have the 380. Which orientation do you have it?


Turned out to be the radiator that was at fault - despite passing the blow test. It has been a really aggravating day trying to sort this out.
Think I have finally got it sorted so now back to flexible hose and my trusty UT60 - oh well !!!! Now for some testing to see if it is really ok.

Many thanks to all those that helped on these issues - saved my sanity.

Mark
Ps my Titan X block and backplate turned up today - so fitted those as well. Titan now idles at 27 degrees.


----------



## Kritikill

You said Acrylic, just to verify it isn't actually PETG. Any chance your pump shut off and then back on?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Acrylic is used for various applications outside of PC watercooling where hot water is used. Much hotter than a watercooled PC.


Not doubting you at all just couldn't think of any off the top of my head. What are some?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Not doubting you at all just couldn't think of any off the top of my head. What are some?


Really good question! Haha I'll have to get back to you. I do know that acrylic needs to reach 320 degrees F for it to melt. Considering my system never reaches above 115 degrees, I highly doubt that it would be the warm water causing it to deform. Most likely it is human error that causes issues. Such as holding the tube over heat too long, bending it prematurely, attempting to re-bend the tube, or bending too fast. Even cutting acrylic OR PETG can cause issues on a straight line.


----------



## hamed599

Thank you my friends
yes this is first my build
just trying to understand what is this box near the RAM and the 24pin connector to the MB ? this is Aquacomputer Flow Sensor
also what case is this ? case is enermax fulmo gt
What coolant are you using, I used the XSPC ECX Ultra Concentrate Coolant - UV Blue
Changes in my case


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Could you link me when you get a chance. Im wondering if its the one im thinking of.
> 
> and/or could you take a picture of your setup? pretty please?


I'll get a pic tomorrow after work.


----------



## ozzy1925

guys today i installed my ek strix 980 blocks .I did the first one is perfect but after installing the second one i see there are some cracks near these screws.I didnt touch any ot these.Any idea how could this happen?


----------



## KRONQS

Here is one of my


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Turned out to be the radiator that was at fault - despite passing the blow test. It has been a really aggravating day trying to sort this out.
> Think I have finally got it sorted so now back to flexible hose and my trusty UT60 - oh well !!!! Now for some testing to see if it is really ok.
> 
> Many thanks to all those that helped on these issues - saved my sanity.
> 
> Mark
> Ps my Titan X block and backplate turned up today - so fitted those as well. Titan now idles at 27 degrees.


Woot, Woot







. That's the first thing that came to mind when you mentioned you switched.

Sorry I couldnt get you pump rpm for your pump concerns. My mb is in horizontal and with all the components, it's a pain to get to the cpu header.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys today i installed my ek strix 980 blocks .I did the first one is perfect but after installing the second one i see there are some cracks near these screws.I didnt touch any ot these.Any idea how could this happen?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks like the factory over tightened the screws causing hairline fractures in the plexi. It won't leak, but I think that is eligible for RMA.

My EK Supreme HF CPU block has those hairline fractures where the fittings screw in from me over tightening the fittings.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It looks like the factory over tightened the screws causing hairline fractures in the plexi. It won't leak, but I think that is eligible for RMA.
> 
> My EK Supreme HF CPU block has those hairline fractures where the fittings screw in from me over tightening the fittings.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


May be but they were ok before installing.Could be because the gpu block surface was not flat and it did stress the plexi after installation?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It looks like the factory over tightened the screws causing hairline fractures in the plexi. It won't leak, but I think that is eligible for RMA.
> 
> My EK Supreme HF CPU block has those hairline fractures where the fittings screw in from me over tightening the fittings.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> May be but they were ok before installing.Could be because the gpu block surface was not flat and it did stress the plexi after installation?
Click to expand...

Are you sure they weren't there before the install? You said you noticed them afterwards, maybe you missed them before the install?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> Thank you my friends
> yes this is first my build
> just trying to understand what is this box near the RAM and the 24pin connector to the MB ? this is Aquacomputer Flow Sensor
> also what case is this ? case is enermax fulmo gt
> What coolant are you using, I used the XSPC ECX Ultra Concentrate Coolant - UV Blue
> Changes in my case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How did you cut the acrylic midplate lines?


----------



## guitarhero23

Ok guys here are the tests I promised. (Took longer than I thought because I decided to make them into .gifs but I said I would do it!

@Alex132
@TheCautiousOne
@Yungbenny911

*Blue On Black*









*White On Black*









*Blue On White*









Let me know if the gifs aren't working for you, I can just post pics.

As you can clearly see in the last .gif the blue looks MUCH better after the item was painted white first.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Are you sure they weren't there before the install? You said you noticed them afterwards, maybe you missed them before the install?


yea positive there wasnt any crack, i just see with the water block installed the pcb is now bent what am i going to do?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yea positive there wasnt any crack, i just see with the water block installed the pcb is now bent what am i going to do?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


To my untrained eye, I'd say take off the backplate first and see if the PCB is still bent. It could be a problem with that.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ok guys here are the tests I promised. (Took longer than I thought because I decided to make them into .gifs but I said I would do it!
> 
> @Alex132
> @TheCautiousOne
> @Yungbenny911
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Blue On Black*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *White On Black*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Blue On White*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if the gifs aren't working for you, I can just post pics.
> 
> As you can clearly see in the last .gif the blue looks MUCH better after the item was painted white first.


Great job on the gifs! My take on painting anything, especially smooth surfaces, PRIMER FIRST! It is a must. This will cause all paint to pop much better!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> To my untrained eye, I'd say take off the backplate first and see if the PCB is still bent. It could be a problem with that.


here without backplate:




what do you think?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> here without backplate:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you think?


Get a new backplate for sure. I'm assuming you can take a pic of it before reinstalling.


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It fits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD!
> 
> SKULLS FOR THE SKULL THRONE!
> 
> SPAGHETTI FOR DINNER!


How did you do that paint, I love the color.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Get a new backplate for sure. I'm assuming you can take a pic of it before reinstalling.


Do you think the backplate surface is not flat?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yea positive there wasnt any crack, i just see with the water block installed the pcb is now bent what am i going to do?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> To my untrained eye, I'd say take off the backplate first and see if the PCB is still bent. It could be a problem with that.


Check the male/female threaded inserts on the water block and make sure they're screwed down flush to the block. I had trouble once because one was backed out a few threads.

Also make sure you have the thermal pads in the correct location.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRONQS*
> 
> Here is one of my


Oh Dayum... That's.... Different









(i couldn't resist) lol


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRONQS*
> 
> Here is one of my


Wow, so many straight lines... Well done... +1!!


----------



## emsj86

Would the there big a big difference from day a 64mm thick 120 rad with push pull (1200rpm) to one slim ex240 xspc rad. With just 1200rpm pull fans. I ask because the 240 would require more modding than adding the 120 up front.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Wow, so many straight lines... Well done... +1!!


I'm definitely digging that water-slide theme. Really nice


----------



## pompss

Here my white Titan X








Logo Still missing ....


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thanks to @Corsair Joseph for helping me out w/ my fans







they all match now (please excuse our dust while construction is in progress







)



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Would the there big a big difference from day a 64mm thick 120 rad with push pull (1200rpm) to one slim ex240 xspc rad. With just 1200rpm pull fans. I ask because the 240 would require more modding than adding the 120 up front.


check here mate and look for the specific rad you want.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/


----------



## KRONQS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Oh Dayum... That's.... Different
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i couldn't resist) lol


yeah i like to build Computer Desk here is a nother picture


----------



## KRONQS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRONQS*
> 
> yeah i like to build Computer Desk here is a nother picture


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRONQS*
> 
> yeah i like to build Computer Desk here is a nother picture


that one is of 4 Desk build's is not done yet so


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys today i installed my ek strix 980 blocks .I did the first one is perfect but after installing the second one i see there are some cracks near these screws.I didnt touch any ot these.Any idea how could this happen?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> May be but they were ok before installing.Could be because the gpu block surface was not flat and it did stress the plexi after installation?


This
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> To my untrained eye, I'd say take off the backplate first and see if the PCB is still bent. It could be a problem with that.


PCB does not look flat to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Check the male/female threaded inserts on the water block and make sure they're screwed down flush to the block. I had trouble once because one was backed out a few threads.
> 
> Also make sure you have the thermal pads in the correct location.


This

From the looks of things and what you described is that the blocks went on okay and you noticed after installing the back plate?

When you tightened the back plate in what sequence did you tighten the screws?


----------



## feznz

https://www.facebook.com/ASUSROGUK?fref=photo

Now this has to be an April fools joke


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRONQS*
> 
> yeah i like to build Computer Desk here is a nother picture


Deadmaster


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/ASUSROGUK?fref=photo
> 
> Now this has to be an April fools joke


Yup, cause I am pretty sure that card woulda made ALL the rags prior to marketing ads.









~Ceadder


----------



## KRONQS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Deadmaster


Thank you


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> This
> PCB does not look flat to me.
> This
> 
> From the looks of things and what you described is that the blocks went on okay and you noticed after installing the back plate?
> 
> When you tightened the back plate in what sequence did you tighten the screws?


I switched the backplates between my 2 cards here is the damaged one after switch:



and the ok one:




Here is another picture :

The left one is the damaged .what do you think now?They look same to me


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Blue On Black*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *White On Black*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Blue On White*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can clearly see in the last .gif the blue looks MUCH better after the item was painted white first.


Wow.

Actually really interesting, thanks!


----------



## ranerX3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/ASUSROGUK?fref=photo
> 
> Now this has to be an April fools joke




ROFL

people acctualy belive that


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Woot, Woot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That's the first thing that came to mind when you mentioned you switched.
> 
> Sorry I couldnt get you pump rpm for your pump concerns. My mb is in horizontal and with all the components, it's a pain to get to the cpu header.


Thanks wermad,

Funnily enough I had been struggling with these issues for a while - just not believing that it could possibly be the radiator as Mayhems make top stuff. I was however one of the very first to receive one so maybe it was a rushed out example and not quite right- I don't know?

Will contact Mayhems though and see what they say.

Mark


----------



## Retrosmith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranerX3*
> 
> 
> 
> ROFL
> 
> people acctualy belive that


Yep! It's got a tiny little compressor, condensor and evaporator in it to use the nitrogen in a phase-change cycle.

What, you hadn't heard about those??


----------



## HoztileManikyn

I've been meaning to get into water for a while now, but can never find the plates necessary to cool the video card, and mobo.
Can any of you fine gents turn me over to where you get yours?


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrosmith*
> 
> Yep! It's got a tiny little compressor, condensor and evaporator in it to use the nitrogen in a phase-change cycle.
> 
> What, you hadn't heard about those??


It has to be very recent, or at least recently made public.

so what your telling us, is that this recycles the Ln2 already in the system without requiring a steady supply of new ln2 to be regularly introduced?
If it's real, i would love to invest in this.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoztileManikyn*
> 
> It has to be very recent, or at least recently made public, i've been watching Ln2 cooling very closely lately (mainly because i'm waiting for just this type of self contained methodology).
> Imagine when this becomes as available as water cooling, the sheer firepower alone from convenient supercooling, now all we need is a self contained cpu loop
> (question) does this cooling system, require new Ln2 to be introduced, or does it recycle what it has?


It's not serious. It was an April Fools days joke.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoztileManikyn*
> 
> I've been meaning to get into water for a while now, but can never find the plates necessary to cool the video card, and mobo.
> Can any of you fine gents turn me over to where you get yours?


Go to EK's Cooling Configurator page and see if you have a reference or non-reference GPU. If it is reference, chances are there is a full cover block available for it, and EK will list the ones they offer. If it's non-reference, there is still a chance there could a a full cover block(most likely available from EK), but not as likely as a reference card. If there is no full cover block available, a Universal block and passive heatsinks on the VRAM and VRM


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It's not serious. It was an April Fools days joke.


well damn, i was very interested in this,

and thank you very much for the link


----------



## RaexoN

Finally the setup is complete! 4960X with TITAN X SLI WaterCooled


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRONQS*
> 
> that one is of 4 Desk build's is not done yet so


You should post some build logs or more pics of these desks. That thing is pretty sick looking.


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaexoN*
> 
> Finally the setup is complete! 4960X with TITAN X SLI WaterCooled


Dude, that looks awesome


----------



## RaexoN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoztileManikyn*
> 
> Dude, that looks awesome


Thanks! Took a long time to complete this build!


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaexoN*
> 
> Finally the setup is complete! 4960X with TITAN X SLI WaterCooled
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean looking build. Nicely done.


----------



## KRONQS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> You should post some build logs or more pics of these desks. That thing is pretty sick looking.


yeah i will i was thinking about doing that. thank you


----------



## KRONQS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> You should post some build logs or more pics of these desks. That thing is pretty sick looking.


im also working on a biger build atm too, i just finish the frame or one of the frames. i will be posting the picture of 2 of the other desk and the build log of the new one
im working on atm. thank you


----------



## ranerX3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoztileManikyn*
> 
> well damn, i was very interested in this,
> 
> and thank you very much for the link


you cant contain ln2 in a close container the pressure would build up until it explodes

ln2 container have releasing plugs which opens when pressure rises, some containers can hold ln2 for a longer times then others but non can hold it forever...


----------



## emsj86

I know that ln2 card is a joke. But being in the refrigeration/hvac field. It would seem possible to have an external compressor from the case and running lines of copper while having the blocks that the copper runs through to make a cold plate. Obviously would have to figure a way to counter act the moisture/freezing up it would have but it would allow to not to have to manually fill like ln2.


----------



## HoztileManikyn

*ignore* [pointless accidental repost is pointless]


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranerX3*
> 
> you cant contain ln2 in a close container the pressure would build up until it explodes
> 
> ln2 container have releasing plugs which opens when pressure rises, some containers can hold ln2 for a longer times then others but non can hold it forever...


I was assuming they had found a way around that problem, resulting in my enthusiasm


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaexoN*
> 
> Finally the setup is complete! 4960X with TITAN X SLI WaterCooled


Looking good. May want to pick up some combs for the PSU cables. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Bat-Cable-Comb-Double-Pack-/151330682348?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233c02f5ec

Shipping is kind of slow, but its the only place I have been able to find them.


----------



## cennis

This is my second water-cooled build with the focus of top-tier performance/cooling in a compact case. This machine is used mainly for benching, schoolwork and gaming. The highlight of the build is the water cooling loop. The emphasis is placed on using fittings and adapters instead of tubing to connect in tight spaces while maintaining nice lines. Total tubing used was probably less than 10 inches. Total fittings used was around 40. Had a great experience modding this.


Spoiler: Warning: specs!



CPU: 4.7ghz i7-4770k
GPU: R9 295x2
RAM: Trident X 2x4GB
MOBO: ASUS Maximus Impact VI

Watercooling:
Aquacomputer 295x2 nickel plexi block with active backplate
Maximus VI impact full cover nickel plexi polished
EK, Enzotech, Bitspower, swiftech bits






Spoiler: Warning: More Pics!














BENCH


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






*

If you guys liked this build, head over to Mod of the Month to show some support!*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Thanks wermad,
> 
> Funnily enough I had been struggling with these issues for a while - just not believing that it could possibly be the radiator as Mayhems make top stuff. I was however one of the very first to receive one so maybe it was a rushed out example and not quite right- I don't know?
> 
> Will contact Mayhems though and see what they say.
> 
> Mark


Definitely, Mike (or Mick as he's known in the EU-UK) is pretty cool and I'm sure they'll love to know this piece of info. Did they ask which fans you would be running?

fpi isn't different I believe (9 on the mayhems and 10 on the ut60). Though the mayhems has more brass. from memory, the phobya was a tad behind the alphacool because it was mainly brass (instead of copper for the tanks and channels). That's quite a bit of difference though. If possible, and if you're still beta testing, switch back to the Mayhems to replicate the issue again. Once could be just an anomaly but repeated observations of the higher temps can be useful info to Mahyems.

Also, is your 380 in the standard orientation or 90°? I ask because X79 did have a slight change when going from the standard postion (intake port pointing towards the mb top) vs turning it 90° (i believe counter clockwise). i havent researched this for x99 but it could be true as well.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Looking good. May want to pick up some combs for the PSU cables. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Bat-Cable-Comb-Double-Pack-/151330682348?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233c02f5ec
> 
> Shipping is kind of slow, but its the only place I have been able to find them.


They're all over the place. PPC's even sells them As well as Mainframe Cutoms(formally Lutro0Customs), Icemodz, and E22


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> They're all over the place. PPC's even sells them As well as Mainframe Cutoms(formally Lutro0Customs), Icemodz, and E22


The ones I got from PPCS did not have the rounded edges, the E22 Type. The wires in the Cablemod Kit tend to sit very loose in the cable comb, the insulation has a smaller diameter than the comb slots. So I was unable to use them .


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Definitely, Mike (or Mick as he's known in the EU-UK) is pretty cool and I'm sure they'll love to know this piece of info. Did they ask which fans you would be running?
> 
> fpi isn't different I believe (9 on the mayhems and 10 on the ut60). Though the mayhems has more brass. from memory, the phobya was a tad behind the alphacool because it was mainly brass (instead of copper for the tanks and channels). That's quite a bit of difference though. If possible, and if you're still beta testing, switch back to the Mayhems to replicate the issue again. Once could be just an anomaly but repeated observations of the higher temps can be useful info to Mahyems.
> 
> Also, is your 380 in the standard orientation or 90°? I ask because X79 did have a slight change when going from the standard postion (intake port pointing towards the mb top) vs turning it 90° (i believe counter clockwise). i havent researched this for x99 but it could be true as well.


I will at some point re do the test with the Mayhems rad - I am honestly shocked as Mayhems stuff is usually top notch. Trouble is whe I hooked up a test rig by the sink with just my spare psu, and tubing from res/pump to the rads - when the mayhems was running the air just simply never came out. In comparison within 5 mins the UT60 had settled, very strange. Having said all that when I re built my rig yesterday with the UT60 and flexible tubing(Gave up with the hardline with lack of patience, Lol) I had a hell of a job getting the air out of the tube connecting rad to gpu - not sure why. I even found a fair bit of air still in the system this morning, but it usually takes a few days for all of the air to come out anyway.

Thanks for your help/interest.

Mark


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaexoN*
> 
> Finally the setup is complete! 4960X with TITAN X SLI WaterCooled


This is Very Very Very Clean.









The Cautious One


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Could you link me when you get a chance. Im wondering if its the one im thinking of.
> 
> and/or could you take a picture of your setup? pretty please?


https://imageshack.com/i/idV223PBj

Better view.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That is clean!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> I will at some point re do the test with the Mayhems rad - I am honestly shocked as Mayhems stuff is usually top notch. Trouble is whe I hooked up a test rig by the sink with just my spare psu, and tubing from res/pump to the rads - when the mayhems was running the air just simply never came out. In comparison within 5 mins the UT60 had settled, very strange. Having said all that when I re built my rig yesterday with the UT60 and flexible tubing(Gave up with the hardline with lack of patience, Lol) I had a hell of a job getting the air out of the tube connecting rad to gpu - not sure why. I even found a fair bit of air still in the system this morning, but it usually takes a few days for all of the air to come out anyway.
> 
> Thanks for your help/interest.
> 
> Mark


Rocking the case/bench will help purge most of the big air. Then, it's just small pockets that slowly make their way out to the res. I still have some air surging in the pump, attributed to the reservoir's fountain effect (I don't have the vortex reducer piece) and it can be annoying when the case is sitting next to you. I'm switching reservoirs anyways so I didn't put too much troubleshooting effort tbh. I'm switching to a bay res out of necessity, so I'm hoping it purges the air quicker (stand alone bay res ).

As far as the hard acrylic tube, I felt the same way and abandoned my project back in 2013. I'm still very tempted but then I remind myself of past experiences. You can take the easy way out (but very expensive) and just add a ton of angled adapters/fittings. It's shaping/forming the hardest part imho (I did free hand).

I just purchased my fourth rad...







...this thing will be stuffed like a turkey before thanksgiving


----------



## B NEGATIVE

LN2 cards is still not as good as Corsairs something-d beige edition.....


----------



## NomNomNom

Going to be running a 2400rpm DC-LT pump (0.6m head pressure and 100lph) with EK supreme LTX + EK-VGA supremacy block and a 240 rad. Should the pump be ok for flow rates? Picked such a small pump because im trying to fit this all in it Ncase M1 case and want silence too.


----------



## andrix12345

Hey guys just finished the leak testing on my very first water cooling loop, I was really happy with the way it turned out


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It's not serious. It was an April Fools days joke.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoztileManikyn*
> 
> It has to be very recent, or at least recently made public.
> 
> so what your telling us, is that this recycles the Ln2 already in the system without requiring a steady supply of new ln2 to be regularly introduced?
> If it's real, i would love to invest in this.


I was told they are manufacturing them in Nigeria, You mean when I sent 2k to Nigeria via Western Union they were scamming me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> This is my second water-cooled build with the focus of top-tier performance/cooling in a compact case. This machine is used mainly for benching, schoolwork and gaming. The highlight of the build is the water cooling loop. The emphasis is placed on using fittings and adapters instead of tubing to connect in tight spaces while maintaining nice lines. Total tubing used was probably less than 10 inches. Total fittings used was around 40. Had a great experience modding this.
> ]


Nice attention to detail looks great








Just one critic would be the top edges look unfinished, like you cut off the top and left it at that
IMO needs some beading or top cover grille to hide those sharp edges


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrix12345*
> 
> Hey guys just finished the leak testing on my very first water cooling loop, I was really happy with the way it turned out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean.


----------



## LandonAaron

There is something wrong with performance-pcs' site right now where if you filter by EK products they are all removed from the results and you get 0 results. Or even if there are multiple pages of items for whatever category your are browsing, after you click past the first page all EK products are removed the listings. Pretty annoying. Trying to figure out if they sell the Plexi EK Asus M7G mosfet heatsink and can't get their site to cooperate.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrix12345*
> 
> Hey guys just finished the leak testing on my very first water cooling loop, I was really happy with the way it turned out


That turned out pretty nice.







What do you think of our CPU block?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> There is something wrong with performance-pcs' site right now where if you filter by EK products they are all removed from the results and you get 0 results. Or even if there are multiple pages of items for whatever category your are browsing, after you click past the first page all EK products are removed the listings. Pretty annoying. Trying to figure out if they sell the Plexi EK Asus M7G mosfet heatsink and can't get their site to cooperate.


Well the other day i couldnt even add a modmytoys distribution block to my order because it wouldnt let me not add an "optional" extention cable lol. No order for them. Amazon has it.


----------



## andrix12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That turned out pretty nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think of our CPU block?


I love it so far, the lines are really clean and the cable for the LED was easy to hide, although if I am going to be totally honest the temps are not quite what I was expecting (granted this is my first custom loop) I didn't see a marked in or out anywhere on the box, or in the manual (I am running the top in the picture as the inlet). But that being said my idle temps are around 33 degrees C.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrix12345*
> 
> I love it so far, the lines are really clean and the cable for the LED was easy to hide, although if I am going to be totally honest the temps are not quite what I was expecting (granted this is my first custom loop) I didn't see a marked in or out anywhere on the box, or in the manual (I am running the top in the picture as the inlet). But that being said my idle temps are around 33 degrees C.


There is no designated in and out for this block. You can use either port as an inlet or outlet. Idle temperatures really don't mean much since most modern processors don't report idle temperatures properly anyway. What is your ambient temperature and your maximum load temperature?


----------



## wermad

33c idle is typical tbh. Depending on your chip (ib, haswell, dc, etc.) and your oc, load temps will vary.

My old 2700k at 5.0 did around 65-70c, which is what my 4690k does at 4.6 (delid). My old 4670k did 4.9 in the low 60s (70-80c pre delid same clock). I miss this chip


----------



## andrix12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There is no designated in and out for this block. You can use either port as an inlet or outlet. Idle temperatures really don't mean much since most modern processors don't report idle temperatures properly anyway. What is your ambient temperature and your maximum load temperature?


Okay that's good to hear







My ambient is approximately 23 deg C and mu max load when running prim 95 is 69 deg C


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrix12345*
> 
> Okay that's good to hear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My ambient is approximately 23 deg C and mu max load when running prim 95 is 69 deg C


Depending on your overclock and voltage, that's a good load temperature.


----------



## Trestles126

found to battery to my better camera today and shot some photos with the tripod

phanteks luxe was a nice case kinda sad to see it go but the caselabs s8 will be way cooler!
http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Untitled.png.html
[/URL]http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/2015.png.htmlhttp://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/20152.png.html


----------



## andrix12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Depending on your overclock and voltage, that's a good load temperature.


I am running at stock speeds


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrix12345*
> 
> I am running at stock speeds


What are you getting when you overclock it? Depending on the voltage, if it stays below 80 then you're good to go.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Color testing the paint job on rads and fans for grey matter. Need a more graphite color to get the gunmetal match:


----------



## BillOhio

I'm liking the white cabling in some of your guys' rigs and am considering getting a set of PSU cables from Ensourced that would include white. I wonder though just how attentive you'd need to be to keep on top of the dust level inside your case in order to keep those cables from starting to look dingy over time? As a 'preemptive' move towards eventually running my first loop I went out yesterday and bought a Supernova G2 as my first modular PSU. I bought that model specifically as it seemed to have the best ratingsrice ratio of the models for which Ensourced makes cables.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 33c idle is typical tbh. Depending on your chip (ib, haswell, dc, etc.) and your oc, load temps will vary.
> 
> My old 2700k at 5.0 did around 65-70c, which is what my 4690k does at 4.6 (delid). My old 4670k did 4.9 in the low 60s (70-80c pre delid same clock). I miss this chip


any chance chance you remember the voltage on that? I'm overclocking my 4670k now and haven't tried going over 4.5 yet. I still need to find the lowest voltage I can run at 4.5 too. I don't plan on going that high with it since I don't plan on delidding
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> found to battery to my better camera today and shot some photos with the tripod
> 
> phanteks luxe was a nice case kinda sad to see it go but the caselabs s8 will be way cooler!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Untitled.png.html
> [/URL]http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/2015.png.htmlhttp://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/20152.png.html


I really like that aquacomputer res in the hdd cage. Looks like it was meant just for that spot with the littlw window there too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Color testing the paint job on rads and fans for grey matter. Need a more graphite color to get the gunmetal match:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm normally not a big black/white fan, but you're pulling this off very well. Nice work on the fans too


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> I'm liking the white cabling in some of your guys' rigs and am considering getting a set of PSU cables from Ensourced that would include white. I wonder though just how attentive you'd need to be to keep on top of the dust level inside your case in order to keep those cables from starting to look dingy over time? As a 'preemptive' move towards eventually running my first loop I went out yesterday and bought a Supernova G2 as my first modular PSU. I bought that model specifically as it seemed to have the best ratingsrice ratio of the models for which Ensourced makes cables.


Lol, I know what you mean. I just got a red black and white PCIe cable from Icemods, and I thought the white cable was going to be on the side facing away from my fans but its actually on the side facing the fans. Its also facing an LED on that side though, and its so super bright white it practically glows. I love it now, but facing the fan the way it is I am worried about dust accumulation.

But I just ordered one of these so hopefully I can blow any dust away fairly easily once it arrives:



Just got sick of buying duster at nearly $5 dollars a can that only works about 15 seconds at a time before the can gets super cold and loses all pressure.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> any chance chance you remember the voltage on that? I'm overclocking my 4670k now and haven't tried going over 4.5 yet. I still need to find the


[email protected], [email protected] she wouldn't do 5.0 so I left her at 4.9. This was a pretty good chip, above average but I know some who had there's ~1.15-1.25 @ 4.9-5.0. from what I gathered, unless its a golden chip, most i5 K would clock a bit higher w/ less voltage vs the i7 K (probably due to the less threads).


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Well i picked up a pair of sapphire 290x tri x 8gb cards. And when I searched the ek config they said they had full cover blocks..turns out j picked the vapor x and I find out they don't make full cover blocks for them... so I'm going to have to use the ek thermosphere uni blocks or run stock heatsinks and in my book that's just unnacceptable. Any body used these blocks before or have any insight on them.

I've got a gtx 690 with ek block and backplate, and an ek strix 970 waterblock o don't need anymore if anyone's interested let me know I'd like them to go to a good home







)


----------



## VSG

Man I hadn't realized how heavy full copper blocks were:



















The copper parts themselves are not polished to a mirror finish here:










But it is definitely a looker, and actually performs very well too- at least on my CPUs!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> any chance chance you remember the voltage on that? I'm overclocking my 4670k now and haven't tried going over 4.5 yet. I still need to find the lowest voltage I can run at 4.5 too. I don't plan on going that high with it since I don't plan on delidding
> I really like that aquacomputer res in the hdd cage. Looks like it was meant just for that spot with the littlw window there too
> *I'm normally not a big black/white fan, but you're pulling this off very well. Nice work on the fans too*


Thks mate. I used the chessboard (black and white) illumination to take the pictures but the rad and GTs in black/grey are going in another build, grey matter ( http://www.overclock.net/t/1548802/grey-matter-caselabs-s5-with-a-look-of-s8#post_23735812), which will be black and different shades of grey (no white). The gunmetal of the case should be close to the graphite color on the cable behind the PE rad. I like the color but is not a perfect match. That grey is actually the primer which looks quite good in fact, I like it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Man I hadn't realized how heavy full copper blocks were:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The copper parts themselves are not polished to a mirror finish here:
> 
> But it is definitely a looker, and actually performs very well too- at least on my CPUs!


The Kryos, HF, though I didn't use it, it was heavy. Same thing w/ the DD M6 block. You get used to acetal and plexi tops being so light









Purrtty shots btw


----------



## VSG

Oh I got 83 pics already with more on the way for the full review. Here are a couple more:










You can see the machining marks in there. It's actually everywhere there is copper, which in this case is a lot.










The wording itself has a green hue to it, possibly from the laser used to etch it.










The underside has a sticker which you can see the imprint of here.

Here it is disassembled:










There is no separate jetplate but the top itself acts like one:



















Installation is also definitely improved from what I have seen in the Heatkiller 3.0 with now there being no guess work needed as far as tightning down the block with the thumbscrews. The block as it is comes without a backplate (or any instructions for AMD sockets for that matter though it is supposedly compatible with it also) for Intel LGA 115x sockets but uses a backplate-less method there. Alternatively, one can purchase the backplate separately (I recommend it for ease of installation and consistency of mounting) and go about with a slightly different installation.


----------



## wermad

How are the cuts on the brackets (front)? The Kryos was, surprisingly, a bit sharp. I was expecting smoother cuts from AC but this is an older block non-the-less. I'll check out the thermal performance in your review


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How are the cuts on the brackets (front)? The Kryos was, surprisingly, a bit sharp. I was expecting smoother cuts from AC but this is an older block non-the-less. I'll check out the thermal performance in your review


The parts that go into the block itself were rough, compared to what's exposed anyway:


----------



## wermad

yup, didn't change. Rough laser cutting...maybe a nice tumble with some polishing pellets and some soap would help


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> yup, didn't change. Rough laser cutting...maybe a nice tumble with some polishing pellets and some soap would help


Possibly, but seeing how it is going into the "top" it isn't worth the effort:


----------



## wermad




----------



## Gabrielzm

Better color match with gunmetal now? The 24-pin cable in grey should be = gunmetal


----------



## Red1776

I used the gunmetal with white as well, glad i did.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Lol, I know what you mean. I just got a red black and white PCIe cable from Icemods, and I thought the white cable was going to be on the side facing away from my fans but its actually on the side facing the fans. Its also facing an LED on that side though, and its so super bright white it practically glows. I love it now, but facing the fan the way it is I am worried about dust accumulation.
> 
> But I just ordered one of these so hopefully I can blow any dust away fairly easily once it arrives:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got sick of buying duster at nearly $5 dollars a can that only works about 15 seconds at a time before the can gets super cold and loses all pressure.


That's also is a great way to drain loops too! Just insert it in a fill tube and have a drain hose setup and out goes nearly all of the coolant!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Lol,Alphacool design a fan for rads......that dont fit in series......


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,Alphacool design a fan for rads......that dont fit in series......


That's just embarrassing.


----------



## Anoxy

Anyone here had luck packing up their watercooled tower and bringing it with them to another country? I'm moving abroad next month and would love to bring my computer, but if it's a huge pain the arse, I'll probably just leave it behind.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Anyone here had luck packing up their watercooled tower and bringing it with them to another country? I'm moving abroad next month and would love to bring my computer, but if it's a huge pain the arse, I'll probably just leave it behind.


Drain it,crate it and send it,job done.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Drain it,crate it and send it,job done.


Word, I really don't want to tear it all apart, so that's good to hear. You think the SM8 in my sig would be pretty spendy to send to Japan from the US?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Drain it,crate it and send it,job done.
> 
> 
> 
> Word, I really don't want to tear it all apart, so that's good to hear. You think the SM8 in my sig would be pretty spendy to send to Japan from the US?
Click to expand...

Not if you look a dedicated trans continent shipping,UPS and the like will charge considerably more.....

Also worth stuffing the case cavity with air bags.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,Alphacool design a fan for rads......that dont fit in series......


Is this meant to be a joke or for reals?


----------



## Ceadderman

At least those ac fans look nice. And will work on a 120.









~Ceadder


----------



## MrGrievous

Still got some final touches to do b ut its getting there


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,Alphacool design a fan for rads......that dont fit in series......










they failed so hard


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh I got 83 pics already with more on the way for the full review. Here are a couple more:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the machining marks in there. It's actually everywhere there is copper, which in this case is a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wording itself has a green hue to it, possibly from the laser used to etch it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The underside has a sticker which you can see the imprint of here.
> 
> Here it is disassembled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no separate jetplate but the top itself acts like one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installation is also definitely improved from what I have seen in the Heatkiller 3.0 with now there being no guess work needed as far as tightning down the block with the thumbscrews. The block as it is comes without a backplate (or any instructions for AMD sockets for that matter though it is supposedly compatible with it also) for Intel LGA 115x sockets but uses a backplate-less method there. Alternatively, one can purchase the backplate separately (I recommend it for ease of installation and consistency of mounting) and go about with a slightly different installation.


It might be bigger and heavier, but it should not be a lot heavier than the EK-Supremacy Full Nickel/Copper if it is not a lot bigger. How does it perform compared to the EK-Supremacy (not EVO)? I also have an EK-Supremacy EVO White Edition just laying around, have not found out when/where I should use it.







I guess all this will be in your review as well.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they failed so hard


Hahahahahahah


----------



## Ramzinho

gotta admit these fans look so sweet.. what fail of design .. extra less 4mm and they would have been perfect looking.... are you guys sure it's not April's Fool ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,Alphacool design a fan for rads......that dont fit in series......


You gotta "Blitz" 'em first . . . .

Once you strip that outer layer of excess flux off, they'll fit right in









Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> It might be bigger and heavier, but it should not be a lot heavier than the EK-Supremacy Full Nickel/Copper if it is not a lot bigger. How does it perform compared to the EK-Supremacy (not EVO)? I also have an EK-Supremacy EVO White Edition just laying around, have not found out when/where I should use it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess all this will be in your review as well.


Yeah, I meant that this was my first full copper/nickel top CPU waterblock. I also don't have the original Supremacy, I am afraid. But I know Stren has it too, so he might be able to give you that comparison soon. Keep in mind that results can vary from block to block and also CPU to CPU.


----------



## Vintage

The new Heatkiller blocks look very nice. Looking forward to your review, vsg!


----------



## emsj86

Those fan blades don't even lionlike static preasure fans


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You gotta "Blitz" 'em first . . . .
> 
> Once you strip that outer layer of excess flux off, they'll fit right in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaexoN*
> 
> Finally the setup is complete! 4960X with TITAN X SLI WaterCooled


As ive said over at Hw.no (Christian Thorkildsen) very, very clean and good looking as well







almost loving the specs as much as i love the system layout itself!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,Alphacool design a fan for rads......that dont fit in series......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You gotta "Blitz" 'em first . . . .
> 
> Once you strip that outer layer of excess flux off, they'll fit right in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

lmao

GG alphacool


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The Alphacool fan issue was an April fools joke right?









Right?


----------



## LandonAaron

Are all biocides like Dead Water and PT Nuke silver based? I have a Nickle EK GPU block, and am getting a couple more nickle blocks from EK. I want to get away from using silver biocides in my loop, kill coil or otherwise, but I don't really want to spend alot of money on coolant. Are there any good non-silver based biocides or good coolant mixes that aren't too expensive?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Are all biocides like Dead Water and PT Nuke silver based? I have a Nickle EK GPU block, and am getting a couple more nickle blocks from EK. I want to get away from using silver biocides in my loop, kill coil or otherwise, but I don't really want to spend alot of money on coolant. Are there any good non-silver based biocides or good coolant mixes that aren't too expensive?


PT Nuke (and dead water, Mayhems biocide, etc) are copper sulfate. PT Nuke PHN is benzalkonium chloride (BZK). None I know of are silver based except for actual silver like a silver kill coil or Monsoon's fittings these days.

FWIW, EK doesn't recommend using any of those with their nickel blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Your safest bet: http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=24


Kinda ridiculous imho tho.


----------



## VSG

What fans are those? I can ask a few guys to take a look at the retail models and see for sure if this is the case.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What fans are those? I can ask a few guys to take a look at the retail models and see for sure if this is the case.


They are Alphacool Susurro
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1532_Alphacool-Susurro-Fan---120---Black---Blue-Edition---1700rpm---120x120x25mm--.html

I'm pretty sure that was an April fools prank from B Neg &/or Bundy. At least I would hope that's what it was.

I've seen a review video of those fans installed and running on a rad before with no such issues mentioned.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvUBEtw0EFE&feature=player_detailpage#t=119

If they don't fit it's because the outside is a silicone anti-vibration cover that's sold separately to fit any 120mm fan.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/fan-silencers/alphacool-susurro-antinoise-silicone-fan-frame-120mm-universal.html


----------



## wermad

Its a silicone sleeve that goes over the fans I believe. There's a magical world that is "google" and will enlighten all those harbored and old....







M3 screws can give you so much wiggle room on fans with extras like bumpers (sp120).



edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> They are Alphacool Susurro
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1532_Alphacool-Susurro-Fan---120---Black---Blue-Edition---1700rpm---120x120x25mm--.html
> 
> I'm pretty sure that was an April fools prank from B Neg.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen a review video of those fans installed and running on a rad before with no such issues mentioned.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvUBEtw0EFE&feature=player_detailpage#t=119
> 
> If they don't fit it's because the outside is a silicone anti-vibration cover that's sold separately to fit any 120mm fan.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/fan-silencers/alphacool-susurro-antinoise-silicone-fan-frame-120mm-universal.html[


if its a joke, someone give B a 2015 calender....we're on the 3rd already....


----------



## catbuster

Those fans *dont fit* with silicone rubber frame...


----------



## wermad

If I install two sp120s on the outside (of a 480) and then one inside, the fourth can sometimes not fit. Learned this early on and so as typical, I installed them going in one direction and loose. Same thing with the Cougar CF140s.

Gasket would be easier, nah?


----------



## 1Quickchic

I got my GPU Blocks toda!!







new pictures and a review coming soon


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> if its a joke, someone give B a 2015 calender....we're on the 3rd already....


Well, B Neg did post it yesterday depending on where you live, and it's a pic from Bundy (has his sig in the corner) so I figure it might have been an April fools joke from him still being spread around, especially with the outside fans screwed in and the middle one not fitting. Especially with the M3 screws on an Alphacool rad there's considerable wiggle room to move fans around. I could do the same with any fans on that rad and make them look like they don't fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Those fans *dont fit* with silicone rubber frame...


There are multiple review vids out showing those fans installed on a rad with the silicone from on them. I even linked one above. Soo..... ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,Alphacool design a fan for rads......that dont fit in series......


Might be the funniest thing I've seen today.

Guess their QA department fell asleep again...


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> PT Nuke (and dead water, Mayhems biocide, etc) are copper sulfate. PT Nuke PHN is benzalkonium chloride (BZK). None I know of are silver based except for actual silver like a silver kill coil or Monsoon's fittings these days.
> 
> FWIW, EK doesn't recommend using any of those with their nickel blocks.
> Kinda ridiculous imho tho.


Well I ordered some of Mayhems clear X1 concentrate. Only coolant somewhat reasonably priced. I hope one bottle is enough.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, B Neg did post it yesterday depending on where you live, and it's a pic from Bundy (has his sig in the corner) so I figure it might have been an April fools joke from him still being spread around, especially with the outside fans screwed in and the middle one not fitting. Especially with the M3 screws on an Alphacool rad there's considerable wiggle room to move fans around. I could do the same with any fans on that rad and make them look like they don't fit.
> There are multiple review vids out showing those fans installed on a rad with the silicone from on them. I even linked one above. Soo..... ?


it shows 11 w/ 16 mins, which would make it 11:58PM PsT. He's gmt, which is +7 hours, that would be 7 am in UK, already april 3rd









Lol, my co-workers fell hard for this 4/1 joke:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm surprised no one posted this yesterday...
> 
> http://nerdreactor.com/2015/04/01/jeremy-clarkson-set-to-return-to-top-gear/
> 
> edit: click "source" to better understand...


I knew right away it was fake and I told them they had to click on source (or read the comments) to find out it was fake). Lots of ppl are a bit sentimental TG is over. Im a bit heart-broken tbh.

on-topic: broke down my Monsoon bay res. First time in my wc endevour, an o-rings fits properly without a lot slack







. It was a bit tricky breaking it down but there was dye residue inside and I wanted to thoroughly clean it. came out decent and passed leak testing:


----------



## VSG

For those who were looking forward to the PPCs coupon:
Quote:


> With Easter coming very soon and maybe some time off to work on your PC Modding, why not HOP on over to Performance-PCs.com and grab some of the latest new watercooling and bling on the market! We don't hide all the eggs from you and make it easy to grab all these cool new items in our easy to shop store. Performance-PCs.com wishes all our customers and families a very enjoyable Easter Holiday.
> 
> We wish to offer you these Holiday Coupon Codes below:
> 
> Spend $50-$500 get 7% off: "EASTER15-7"
> Spend over $500 get 8% off: "EASTER15-8"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from April 3rd through April 10th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Devildog83

For those looking to turn Aurora Gold much golder - A couple of drops of brown dye.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For those who were looking forward to the PPCs coupon:


Uhh, I always forget about PPC's holiday sales. Just ordered $200 worth of stuff from them over the last 3 days, Guess it would have only saved me like $15, but still. Also mad at myself for not getting my order right the first time and missing opportunity to combine shipping.


----------



## Cyber-kan

Hi all my new rig


----------



## Angrychair

beautiful tubing work sir


----------



## Cyber-kan

Thx quite hard to do specially in some places like this


ek-wb make hole in the lower parts of the block for Rampage V extreme and you can`t fit two chain gun fittings from Monsoon they are to close to each other


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its a silicone sleeve that goes over the fans I believe. There's a magical world that is "google" and will enlighten all those harbored and old....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M3 screws can give you so much wiggle room on fans with extras like bumpers (sp120).
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> They are Alphacool Susurro
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1532_Alphacool-Susurro-Fan---120---Black---Blue-Edition---1700rpm---120x120x25mm--.html
> 
> I'm pretty sure that was an April fools prank from B Neg.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen a review video of those fans installed and running on a rad before with no such issues mentioned.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvUBEtw0EFE&feature=player_detailpage#t=119
> 
> If they don't fit it's because the outside is a silicone anti-vibration cover that's sold separately to fit any 120mm fan.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/fan-silencers/alphacool-susurro-antinoise-silicone-fan-frame-120mm-universal.html[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if its a joke, someone give B a 2015 calender....we're on the 3rd already....
Click to expand...

None of which matters as the fans dont fit with the one thing that separates them from the rest,hardly a Aprils fools when Bundy is pretty much the Alphapimp...even worse than you.....

Poor design and a massive oversight.


----------



## wermad

AC 6 controller not fitting was a booboo as well. Maybe you should use that for April's fools? Or still under sponsorship? Lots if ppl struggled with that and not a peep from you and others...

We'll leave it there....


----------



## Malik




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> AC 6 controller not fitting was a booboo as well. Maybe you should use that for April's fools? Or still under sponsorship? Lots if ppl struggled with that and not a peep from you and others...
> 
> We'll leave it there....


Lol,never been sponsored by Aquacomputer,you are fishing and failing badly.

The Aquaero's I have had have all fitted just fine, although I have heard of people having issues with Caselabs cases and fitment.

You are coming across as a petulant and you dont even seem to have any facts to base your sniping on.

Roll on!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Again Guys.. Really? Its friday. Just have a beer already.















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> AC 6 controller not fitting was a booboo as well. Maybe you should use that for April's fools? Or still under sponsorship? Lots if ppl struggled with that and not a peep from you and others...
> 
> We'll leave it there....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,never been sponsored by Aquacomputer,you are fishing and failing badly.
> 
> The Aquaero's I have had have all fitted just fine, although I have heard of people having issues with Caselabs cases and fitment.
> 
> You are coming across as a petulant and you dont even seem to have any facts to base your sniping on.
> 
> Roll on!


The Cautious One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Again Guys.. Really? Its friday. Just have a beer already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> AC 6 controller not fitting was a booboo as well. Maybe you should use that for April's fools? Or still under sponsorship? Lots if ppl struggled with that and not a peep from you and others...
> 
> We'll leave it there....
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,never been sponsored by Aquacomputer,you are fishing and failing badly.
> 
> The Aquaero's I have had have all fitted just fine, although I have heard of people having issues with Caselabs cases and fitment.
> 
> You are coming across as a petulant and you dont even seem to have any facts to base your sniping on.
> 
> Roll on!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The Cautious One
Click to expand...

I have had a few beers already.

Wermad just has an axe to grind and not doing very well at it either. He seems to think that because im sponsored that my opinions are skewed,certainly doesnt entitle him to just make assumptions for ad hominem attacks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,never been sponsored by Aquacomputer,you are fishing and failing badly.
> 
> The Aquaero's I have had have all fitted just fine, although I have heard of people having issues with Caselabs cases and fitment.
> 
> You are coming across as a petulant and you dont even seem to have any facts to base your sniping on.
> 
> Roll on!


Yet you ranted like a child until some one told you were mistaken by the fact it was the 6 (and not the five) and then silent... But keep promoting their stuff. Yeah, the hypocrisy is unreal and yet you call me out (and Bundy) as "alpha pimp" where we can easily call you a sponsor-sheep. Don't say anything on those who will pay for your stuff, huh? You try to make that look bad when all you have to do is search and see its an add on. Also, can't use it as an april's fool's joke as it already passed. So to me a cheap shot at Alphacool and trying to rile those who have no beef with the brand.

Stop calling me out and we won't need to go back and forth. Live your life but stop poking fun of others if that makes a you bigger man from the little one you're already are.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have had a few beers already.
> 
> Wermad just has an axe to grind and not doing very well at it either. He seems to think that because im sponsored that my opinions are skewed,certainly doesnt entitle him to just make assumptions for ad hominem attacks.


Mate don't care about this, leave these people with their opinion and keep up the good work


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,never been sponsored by Aquacomputer,you are fishing and failing badly.
> 
> The Aquaero's I have had have all fitted just fine, although I have heard of people having issues with Caselabs cases and fitment.
> 
> You are coming across as a petulant and you dont even seem to have any facts to base your sniping on.
> 
> Roll on!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yet you ranted like a child until some one told you were mistaken by the fact it was the 6 (and not the five) and then silent... But keep promoting their stuff. Yeah, the hypocrisy is unreal and yet you call me out (and Bundy) as "alpha pimp" where we can easily call you a sponsor-sheep. Don't say anything on those who will pay for your stuff, huh? You try to make that look bad when all you have to do is search and see its an add on. Also, can't use it as an april's fool's joke as it already passed. So to me a cheap shot at Alphacool and trying to rile those who have no beef with the brand.
> 
> Stop calling me out and we won't need to go back and forth. Live your life but stop poking fun of others if that makes a you bigger man from the little one you're already are.
Click to expand...

Explain what AquaC product I promote? Show me the hypocrisy? Im hardly a sponsor sheep,you dont even seem to know who actually sponsors me so im hardly that am I? I think you are just pissy that I am sponsored personally.

Little man eh? Well,at least i am a man...

Grow up or move on,simples.


----------



## Lyxchoklad

I haven't had any problems with the frames besides having to cut a small whole for Noctua pwm cable. They were used in my S340 CLUB build.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Had my loop up and running for a little over a week and it seems to be going well, haven't seen the GPU or CPU crack 70° even on 35° days that's with all 10 rad fans running 5v to, VRM 1 on my card does get to around 80° tho but not much I can really do about that. Pretty happy with how nicely its working now after the almost 5 months worth of headaches









I have a question, how do you guys think my current loop would go with something like a 5960X & 2 290X's? just curious because when / if Skylake-E comes out I plan on upgrading to it with a couple of top AMD cards

Thanks


----------



## wermad

hawaii does pump out a lot of heat. At stock, they should be ~50-55c (maybe touch 60c) with the fans at low. I have to push my fans to ~7v and it drops below 50c on cool days (~25-26c ambient).


----------



## electro2u

My new sponsor:


----------



## wermad

$0.82, damn skippy. Just gotta beat the old folks in the morning as they buy these in bulk....


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> hawaii does pump out a lot of heat. At stock, they should be ~50-55c (maybe touch 60c) with the fans at low. I have to push my fans to ~7v and it drops below 50c on cool days (~25-26c ambient).


Yeah I know these things put out so much heat and so do the 6 & 8 core CPUs

Do you guys think that my 2 35mm thick rads (240 & 360) would be able to cool it or would it just be to much heat?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very sexy block for the Strix 970







Love my clear version myself


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I know these things put out so much heat and so do the 6 & 8 core CPUs
> 
> Do you guys think that my 2 35mm thick rads (240 & 360) would be able to cool it or would it just be to much heat?


two hawaii's...you may wanna run the fans a bit faster. otherwise, temps can easily creep up, especially w/ high ambient. Before you tear down to upgrade your loop, drop in the second card and see what you get w/ the current setup.

On hot days, my triple 290 triX oc's would hover in the high 50s w/ the fans @ 5v. My current setup, @ 5v, the quads end up kissing 60.

As far as the hex or octo, unless you're benching for records, I see not much of an increase, and your loop should be able to handle a 5960x with a healthy oc.

Check here to compare haswell vs haswell-e.


----------



## $ilent

Hi Guys

Im hoping I can become a member of this club! I dont have pretty acrylic tubing like you folks (thats a dream for the future when I can get rid of this awkward corsair 700d and buy a nice Phanteks Enthoo Primo), but Im quite proud of my loop nonetheless.

My build has:

4790K @ 4.7Ghz/1.31v

SLI GTX 970 at 1500mhz core

WC Parts:

2x D5 vario pumps

XSPC Twin D5 res

EK XTX 360mm rad

EK 140mm rad

6x EK F4 Vardar 2200rpm fans

3x 140mm bitfenix spectre fans

EK Supremacy cpu block

EK MSI TF5 970 blocks

It uses distilled water, silver kill coil and Pulse modding bioclear PT

I previously had problems with my temps as my gpu temps were getting up to 50C whilst doing 8018 Wus on [email protected] Now I think my temps are pretty good:



Pic of loop!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> on-topic: broke down my Monsoon bay res. First time in my wc endevour, an o-rings fits properly without a lot slack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It was a bit tricky breaking it down but there was dye residue inside and I wanted to thoroughly clean it. came out decent and passed leak testing:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmm, that good to know that the Monsoon bay res can break down. Was wondering if it did, now I know I can clean mine out good when I do a full break down of the loop for a deep clean later on.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> on-topic: broke down my Monsoon bay res. First time in my wc endevour, an o-rings fits properly without a lot slack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It was a bit tricky breaking it down but there was dye residue inside and I wanted to thoroughly clean it. came out decent and passed leak testing:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmm, that good to know that the Monsoon bay res can break down. Was wondering if it did, now I know I can clean mine out good when I do a full break down of the loop for a deep clean later on.[/quote]

I did the same w/ my Aquacomputers Aquabox Pro prior to redoing the loop in the R.C70, it is nice being able to break a bay res down to ensure they're fully clean before the next use


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, that good to know that the Monsoon bay res can break down. Was wondering if it did, now I know I can clean mine out good when I do a full break down of the loop for a deep clean later on.


Make sure you have a hex ball #3 metric allen key. This was the trick to remove the screws loose. A standard hex key only goes so far before it can't grab or fit. So the ball hex key helps a ton. I have a series 2 (non pump) version since it was short enough to clear my rads. Start with the screws that hold the front (short) and once that's off, take off the rear section longer screws. Careful, as the anodized (or painted) aluminum faceplate can easily be scratched by the hex key. I used tape to protect the finish after a scratch







. Make sure to use some silicone grease to hold the o-ring's in place and just do the reverse of disassemble for re-assembly. I do recommend to leak test outside before putting it in your loop/case.

Btw, removing the led's harness if yours has one, you need a molex pin removal tool. That's really the only way you can slide out the wire from the res. Unless you wanna cut, crimp on new pins, and add a new female molex plug.



edit: harborfreight has a metric set of hex ball keys for ~$7.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> Im hoping I can become a member of this club! I dont have pretty acrylic tubing like you folks (thats a dream for the future when I can get rid of this awkward corsair 700d and buy a nice Phanteks Enthoo Primo), but Im quite proud of my loop nonetheless.
> 
> My build has:
> 
> 4790K @ 4.7Ghz/1.31v
> SLI GTX 970 at 1500mhz core
> 
> WC Parts:
> 
> 2x D5 vario pumps
> XSPC Twin D5 res
> EK XTX 360mm rad
> EK 140mm rad
> 6x EK F4 Vardar 2200rpm fans
> 3x 140mm bitfenix spectre fans
> EK Supremacy cpu block
> EK MSI TF5 970 blocks
> It uses distilled water, silver kill coil and Pulse modding bioclear PT
> 
> I previously had problems with my temps as my gpu temps were getting up to 50C whilst doing 8018 Wus on [email protected] Now I think my temps are pretty good:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pic of loop!


I see your temps but it says 82 percent load. Is this just temps from a game?


----------



## $ilent

No it's temps from foldin @home. Both gpus are at 100% load whilst the cpu is folding on 6 cores ( it retains one core per gpu that is folding)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> Im hoping I can become a member of this club! I dont have pretty acrylic tubing like you folks (thats a dream for the future when I can get rid of this awkward corsair 700d and buy a nice Phanteks Enthoo Primo), but Im quite proud of my loop nonetheless.
> 
> My build has:
> 
> 4790K @ 4.7Ghz/1.31v
> SLI GTX 970 at 1500mhz core
> 
> WC Parts:
> 
> 2x D5 vario pumps
> XSPC Twin D5 res
> EK XTX 360mm rad
> EK 140mm rad
> 6x EK F4 Vardar 2200rpm fans
> 3x 140mm bitfenix spectre fans
> EK Supremacy cpu block
> EK MSI TF5 970 blocks
> It uses distilled water, silver kill coil and Pulse modding bioclear PT
> 
> I previously had problems with my temps as my gpu temps were getting up to 50C whilst doing 8018 Wus on [email protected] Now I think my temps are pretty good:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pic of loop!


Nice, clean, effective loop. Welcome here mate







Are you liking the Vardars?


----------



## $ilent

Yeah the vardars are really good, they shift an awful lot of air and are pretty quiet too.

I need a 6 pwm fan controller though, most of the ones I've seen are 3 pin controllers :/

Can I just plug like 6 fans into one cable the. Plug that into a controller?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Yeah the vardars are really good, they shift an awful lot of air and are pretty quiet too.
> 
> I need a 6 pwm fan controller though, most of the ones I've seen are 3 pin controllers :/
> 
> Can I just plug like 6 fans into one cable the. Plug that into a controller?


not many pwm fan controller out there mate... You can use a swiftech 8 channel splitter and connect to the MB pwm cpu fan header. That would work fine and cost 10 bucks (or less). Or, get an Aquaero that would handle a lot of fans on its 4 channels...But cost US 125-151 buying directly from them in Germany.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I know these things put out so much heat and so do the 6 & 8 core CPUs
> 
> Do you guys think that my 2 35mm thick rads (240 & 360) would be able to cool it or would it just be to much heat?


I think so. I have a 35mm thick 420 and a 45mm 240, and I am running an i7-4790k, 2 x 290x and will soon be adding mosfet block to the mix. My temps are basically the same as Wermad's 55 in crossfire less than 50 with single card use. And now that my 4790k is delided it tops out at 50 too. Goes higher in stress testing but for games it won't break 50. If your really worried about rad sapce you could add a 120.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Yeah the vardars are really good, they shift an awful lot of air and are pretty quiet too.
> 
> I need a 6 pwm fan controller though, most of the ones I've seen are 3 pin controllers :/
> 
> Can I just plug like 6 fans into one cable the. Plug that into a controller?


I thought the Vardars hadn't been released yet?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> For those looking to turn Aurora Gold much golder - A couple of drops of brown dye.


Nice, really nice,

Witch brown dye is that??

Thanks


----------



## Stateless

Out of curiosity, what is a good time frame to replace rads? I built my first Water Cooled system 3 years ago and other than swapping out connections, new GPU waterblocks when I would upgrade GPU's, I have had the same rads since then. Are they build to last a long time or am I getting close to a time where they should be replaced? System is running fine and my cooling is excellent for both CPU and 2 GPU's.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Out of curiosity, what is a good time frame to replace rads? I built my first Water Cooled system 3 years ago and other than swapping out connections, new GPU waterblocks when I would upgrade GPU's, I have had the same rads since then. Are they build to last a long time or am I getting close to a time where they should be replaced? System is running fine and my cooling is excellent for both CPU and 2 GPU's.


If the rads are running good, show no sign of corrosion/leaking I see no reason to change it unless you want to for other reasons. As long as the rads are holding the water in and flowing good you can use the rads for as long as you want.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> Im hoping I can become a member of this club! I dont have pretty acrylic tubing like you folks (thats a dream for the future when I can get rid of this awkward corsair 700d and buy a nice Phanteks Enthoo Primo), but Im quite proud of my loop nonetheless.
> 
> My build has:
> 
> 4790K @ 4.7Ghz/1.31v
> SLI GTX 970 at 1500mhz core
> 
> WC Parts:
> 
> 2x D5 vario pumps
> XSPC Twin D5 res
> EK XTX 360mm rad
> EK 140mm rad
> 6x EK F4 Vardar 2200rpm fans
> 3x 140mm bitfenix spectre fans
> EK Supremacy cpu block
> EK MSI TF5 970 blocks
> It uses distilled water, silver kill coil and Pulse modding bioclear PT
> 
> I previously had problems with my temps as my gpu temps were getting up to 50C whilst doing 8018 Wus on [email protected] Now I think my temps are pretty good:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pic of loop!


All looks good,nice and tidy. Good temps too for [email protected]

I would say,use a coil OR a biocide,I wouldnt recommend both with plated items.

Acrylic doesnt automatically make it better you know...


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> not many pwm fan controller out there mate... You can use a swiftech 8 channel splitter and connect to the MB pwm cpu fan header. That would work fine and cost 10 bucks (or less). Or, get an Aquaero that would handle a lot of fans on its 4 channels...But cost US 125-151 buying directly from them in Germany.


Thanks ill have a look at the siwftech one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I thought the Vardars hadn't been released yet?


Yeah been out a while now


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Nice, really nice,
> 
> Witch brown dye is that??
> 
> Thanks


Don't scream but I just bought some brown dye and added 2 drops. I don't plan on having it in the system beyond the final photos and then I will flush and fill with straight DW. Aurora does not match well with my system anyhow but I wanted to see what it would look like and get a few pics.

I would pay $100 if Mayhems sold a kit with 2 bottles of Pastel white and a pallet of colored dyes that you could drop in to make your own colors like a painter.


----------



## erso44

who´s using evo elite for socket 2011?


----------



## Trestles126

Few parts from Germany off aquatune.... Great shipping got here quicker than performance pc parts from the states.... Hopefully my caselabs s8 will be shipping in the next week


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


Can you show the back side pls?


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Can you show the back side pls?


I'll take a picture when I'm off looms the same without letters


----------



## charliebrown

Copper or acrylic


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All looks good,nice and tidy. Good temps too for [email protected]
> 
> I would say,use a coil OR a biocide,I wouldnt recommend both with plated items.
> 
> Acrylic doesnt automatically make it better you know...


I went ahead and used a Kill coil and PT Nuke...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Copper or acrylic


Arcylic!


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> I went ahead and used a Kill coil and PT Nuke...


I can't find a source, but I remember that being a very bad idea.

Not to mention that SKC is useless anyway.


----------



## $ilent

so I should just remove the SKC?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> so I should just remove the SKC?


I se3m to recall there being chemical incompatibility between pt nuke and silver. If that is incorrect the silver is at least not helping.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> so I should just remove the SKC?
> 
> 
> 
> I se3m to recall there being chemical incompatibility between pt nuke and silver. If that is incorrect the silver is at least not helping.
Click to expand...

This.

Not to mention I gave Silver Kill Coil 3 chances over a period of 2 years (1 year -> 6 months -> 6 months). Algae every single time. PT Nuke has been fine for ~8 months now.


----------



## $ilent

So I should definitely remove the kill coil>?


----------



## wermad

I don't run silver (or any additives) and I've had no issues. Just gotta keep an eye on it. If you must run something, go with what your block maker recommends.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

silver + deadwater works fine for me, a little oxidizing on my EVO jetplate but thats probably from the water not circulating for 4months


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> So I should definitely remove the kill coil>?


I would.

Silver doesnt work on algae that well,you have to get sufficient PPM before it becomes effective...by this time the algae is established.
I use nuke in DI myself if its not a coolant for specific tasks.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

would having a lot of silver in there be better? I put an ounce coin in my loop just cuz the kill coils seemes to be stupid expensive in comparison


----------



## snef

new personal project on the way

back plate are done


----------



## Ceadderman

Since I am gonna be running Monsoon fittings I will weigh in on the silver issue.

It's the combination of silver,nickel and added biocides that have an adverse effect. If you wish to run dye in your loop, then I would suggest not running one that contains additives. Since I am running distilled only with no additives, the silver that I have in my loop(24 fittings) likely will not have an issue.

My system before now had zero silver and zero additives and the only points that had an issue were the CPU block where corosion and algae got started and one of my connectors which only coroded dur to the system being down for 2 years while I was away. No dyes either.









~Ceadder


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would.
> 
> Silver doesnt work on algae that well,you have to get sufficient PPM before it becomes effective...by this time the algae is established.
> I use nuke in DI myself if its not a coolant for specific tasks.


What would be the implications if I carried on runing SKC + PT Nuke + DW?


----------



## remixedMind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> new personal project on the way
> 
> back plate are done
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


this is sick dude


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> new personal project on the way
> 
> back plate are done












people like you make me throw my case through the window


----------



## BillOhio

Hi, I'm hoping I can get a little direction from one or two WC Veterans,

My case is the relatively modest Corsair 650D and I've spent the last few days looking at every 650D WC Build Log and Video I can find online and it looks like a 240mm x 45mm rad up top and a 200mm in the front of the case (with a little effort) is doable.

My questions are: Would the cost of building a loop be reasonable to upgrade my CPU cooling from a H100i to a 240mm x 45mm rad? Once I've 'absorbed' the $600 or so to put that together I'd look to grab a new card with a block and add a Phobya 200mm to the front of the case if a 200mm rad is enough to quietly cool 1 stock GPU.

I'm not a benchmarker or major OC'r, though it would be nice to take my 4770K up to ~4.5 if I can do so without creating to much noise. The main interest in doing this would be for sound level, aesthetics, overall coolness factor and the having of a project. If the limited amount of rads is going to translate into a loud rig though, I'll postpone thinking about WC'ing until it makes sense for me to buy a different case.

Any perspective would be appreciated, Thank You,
-Bill


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> Hi, I'm hoping I can get a little direction from one or two WC Veterans,
> 
> My case is the relatively modest Corsair 650D and I've spent the last few days looking at every 650D WC Build Log and Video I can find online and it looks like a 240mm x 45mm rad up top and a 200mm in the front of the case (with a little effort) is doable.
> 
> My questions are: Would the cost of building a loop be reasonable to upgrade my CPU cooling from a H100i to a 240mm x 45mm rad? Once I've 'absorbed' the $600 or so to put that together I'd look to grab a new card with a block and add a Phobya 200mm to the front of the case if a 200mm rad is enough to quietly cool 1 stock GPU.
> 
> I'm not a benchmarker or major OC'r, though it would be nice to take my 4770K up to ~4.5 if I can do so without creating to much noise. The main interest in doing this would be for sound level, aesthetics, overall coolness factor and the having of a project. If the limited amount of rads is going to translate into a loud rig though, I'll postpone thinking about WC'ing until it makes sense for me to buy a different case.
> 
> Any perspective would be appreciated, Thank You,
> -Bill


Hmm.. if i were you, i would get new case for it... so you'll have more WCing room in the long run as well








Even if you decided to crossfire or sli as well


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remixedMind*
> 
> this is sick dude


That's crazy friggin sick!! How in the heck did you do that??



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







[/quote]


----------



## remixedMind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> That's crazy friggin sick!! How in the heck did you do that??


amm @snef did it not me lol i just quote him


----------



## BillOhio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Hmm.. if i were you, i would get new case for it... so you'll have more WCing room in the long run as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you decided to crossfire or sli as well


It's crosed my mind for sure, but... yeah, I'll work up incrementally for the sake of not breaking the bank all at once and avoiding arguments with the Missus







I guess there's no downside to at least looping the CPU for now. If I do eventually invest in a new case I can transfer everything to a new build down the line. Part of the hesitation though is that I just really like my 650D where it's at on my desk, accessible and visible without taking up to much space. I'm hoping that I can get something respectable put together in that case.

...and yeah, those Carnage plates look pretty cool.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remixedMind*
> 
> amm @snef did it not me lol i just quote him


lol, yea i got so worked up excited there I was quoting the wrong thing, lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *remixedMind*
> 
> this is sick dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's crazy friggin sick!! How in the heck did you do that??
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

[/quote]

Ink jet printer and sticky backed photo paper.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> It's crosed my mind for sure, but... yeah, I'll work up incrementally for the sake of not breaking the bank all at once and avoiding arguments with the Missus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess there's no downside to at least looping the CPU for now. If I do eventually invest in a new case I can transfer everything to a new build down the line. Part of the hesitation though is that I just really like my 650D where it's at on my desk, accessible and visible without taking up to much space. I'm hoping that I can get something respectable put together in that case.
> 
> ...and yeah, those Carnage plates look pretty cool.


Yea i thought so as well. It would be worth it for sure if you invest a actual WC ready case.. maybe a Caselab or something bigger than 650D. I am currently saving some cash for Caselab Double wide case.... alot more room and easy to work with. This is what i'm saving up for...
http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-th10a/ <---- Magnum TH10A,


wicked case eh?







but who knows, maybe down road i might change mind for something else when something comes up.. but i'm def set on the double wide case... few buddies of mine has em and loves it..


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> That's crazy friggin sick!! How in the heck did you do that??
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


[/quote]

Not to take away from snef but getting you your answer now, photo paper on it i believe


----------



## $ilent

Can anyone tell me the implications if I run kill coil + PT Nuke in my loop?

Nobody seems to answer or just says its not good with no explanation why.


----------



## snef

yes , Photo paper, a good photo printer and glue stick


----------



## BillOhio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Yea i thought so as well. It would be worth it for sure if you invest a actual WC ready case.. maybe a Caselab or something bigger than 650D. I am currently saving some cash for Caselab Double wide case.... alot more room and easy to work with. This is what i'm saving up for...
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-th10a/ <---- Magnum TH10A,
> 
> 
> wicked case eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but who knows, maybe down road i might change mind for something else when something comes up.. but i'm def set on the double wide case... few buddies of mine has em and loves it..


I think the Caselabs SM8 would be a pretty good replacement for the Corsair 650D, similar size with more WC options and that might happen in time, but living in Canada I expect you and I will both get smashed with shipping, duty, and maybe brokerage eh? At least I'm close enough to Dazmode that I could pick up an order in person from his warehouse.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> I think the Caselabs SM8 would be a pretty good replacement for the Corsair 650D, similar size with more WC options and that might happen in time, but living in Canada I expect you and I will both get smashed with shipping, duty, and maybe brokerage eh? At least I'm close enough to Dazmode that I could pick up an order in person from his warehouse.


Oh? lucky you.. i always wanted to drop by Dazmode someday but since i live very far from there... but o well







But anyway yes i agree.. u could go with SM8, its a nice case.. smaller version of what i wanted.. but still great case.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Can anyone tell me the implications if I run kill coil + PT Nuke in my loop?
> 
> Nobody seems to answer or just says its not good with no explanation why.


Silver is low on the galvanic scale. It could help brass/copper/nickel ions become loose, especially in demineralised water. Or maybe not. There are differing opinions about it because most of the easy-to-google data on this is based on saltwater studies. There is little-to-none actual studies for freshwater @ 30C / 1gpm like in a PC w/c loop. Despite the massive amounts of money us enthusiasts invest in our systems, nobody is going to spend the tens of thousands on proper scientific equipment to really test it all properly.

PT Nuke (either the copper sulphate or benzo-thingy) similarly has very little data. The chemistry theoretically says it's going to accelerate ionisation of the metals in waterblocks, rads, fittings. But how fast, whether it's actually going to cause corrosion is highly misunderstood and poorly documented. Anecdotes abound.

If you are looking for advice, people will post what's worked for them. Some swear by distilled only, some by Petra's, some by silver, some will only use premixes. Why people have different experiences is often not emphasised enough. There are environmental reasons, temperature reasons, there are wildly differing component combinations, there is the matter of hygiene while assembling the loop. Personally I never get algae, rarely get corrosion and am not so bothered by plasticiser, but often have copper ions in my loops - clear tubes take on a green/blue hue. My solution, use opaque tubing. YMMV.

Suffice to say, when starting water cooling you will want to know "the right thing to do". But actually the best advice comes from your own experiences. Examine your loop, watch what happens, try different things.


----------



## $ilent

Thanks, its just a aibt of a PITA to have to take my loop down agaion after messing with it for 12 hours over the past two days to remove my silver kill coil.


----------



## BillOhio

...but, yeah, would a 240mm x 45mm rad plus a 200mm rad be enough to quietly cool a cpu and a card that weren't heavily OC'd?

the loop I priced out at Dazmode is at $815 with tax and no shipping.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Thanks, its just a aibt of a PITA to have to take my loop down agaion after messing with it for 12 hours over the past two days to remove my silver kill coil.


What's the worst that can happen? Stuff needs cleaning, or replacing. It's not going to blow up. Just leave it for the moment









Check again in a few months. Examine your blocks for tarnish / corrosion / algae. Clean anything that looks dirty with soap and water and a soft cloth. Make photos is anything disturbs you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> ...but, yeah, would a 240mm x 45mm rad plus a 200mm rad be enough to quietly cool a cpu and a card that weren't heavily OC'd?


It's fine. "Enough" rad is just a matter of what temps you are comfortable with.


----------



## BillOhio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's fine. "Enough" rad is just a matter of what temps you are comfortable with.


TY Sir


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Silver is low on the galvanic scale. It could help brass/copper/nickel ions become loose, especially in demineralised water. Or maybe not. There are differing opinions about it because most of the easy-to-google data on this is based on saltwater studies. There is little-to-none actual studies for freshwater @ 30C / 1gpm like in a PC w/c loop. Despite the massive amounts of money us enthusiasts invest in our systems, nobody is going to spend the tens of thousands on proper scientific equipment to really test it all properly.
> 
> PT Nuke (either the copper sulphate or benzo-thingy) similarly has very little data. The chemistry theoretically says it's going to accelerate ionisation of the metals in waterblocks, rads, fittings. But how fast, whether it's actually going to cause corrosion is highly misunderstood and poorly documented. Anecdotes abound.
> 
> If you are looking for advice, people will post what's worked for them. Some swear by distilled only, some by Petra's, some by silver, some will only use premixes. Why people have different experiences is often not emphasised enough. There are environmental reasons, temperature reasons, there are wildly differing component combinations, there is the matter of hygiene while assembling the loop. Personally I never get algae, rarely get corrosion and am not so bothered by plasticiser, but often have copper ions in my loops - clear tubes take on a green/blue hue. My solution, use opaque tubing. YMMV.
> 
> Suffice to say, when starting water cooling you will want to know "the right thing to do". But actually the best advice comes from your own experiences. Examine your loop, watch what happens, try different things.


^^ this. In any case @$ilent PT with silver would be redundant while still missing a corrosion inhibitor. Details of the loop and system also count. Clear water in rubber tube and a clean loop would be better off fending algae that the same water in clear tubing and lots of illumination (either direct sunlight or bright leds), just to give you an example. I personally tend to use pre-mixed solutions like Mayhems or EK just to help minimizing my chances but I also run a system for 6 months on pure distilled water without problems.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> *What's the worst that can happen?* Stuff needs cleaning, or replacing. It's not going to blow up. Just leave it for the moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check again in a few months. Examine your blocks for tarnish / corrosion / algae. Clean anything that looks dirty with soap and water and a soft cloth. Make photos is anything disturbs you.


Well some people in here have said they heard its a bad idea but not elaborated on why its a bad idea (always helpful).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^ this. In any case @$ilent PT with silver would be redundant while still missing a corrosion inhibitor.


What do you mean? What is a corrosion inhibitor?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Well some people in here have said they heard its a bad idea but not elaborated on why its a bad idea (always helpful).


your blocks are clear acrylic so you can check them visually from time to time? Then leave it be for a while as Wisk suggested and keep an eye on it. It is said to be a bad idea because silver coil is considered a weak way of controlling algae while at same time increasing chances of corrosion due to larger difference in galvanic scale with brass/copper/nickel. But Wisk summarize quite well above that the corrosion potential part is based on salt water studies. Ek did some testing recently in the effects of different loops coolant on their blocks. Let me see if I can find that and post a link here.

edit - (not so recently but relevant) http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> *What's the worst that can happen?* Stuff needs cleaning, or replacing. It's not going to blow up. Just leave it for the moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check again in a few months. Examine your blocks for tarnish / corrosion / algae. Clean anything that looks dirty with soap and water and a soft cloth. Make photos is anything disturbs you.
> 
> 
> 
> Well some people in here have said they heard its a bad idea but not elaborated on why its a bad idea (always helpful).
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^ this. In any case @$ilent PT with silver would be redundant while still missing a corrosion inhibitor.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What do you mean? What is a corrosion inhibitor?
Click to expand...

Its a bad idea as you want the minimum of chemical interactions. Silver has been implicated in more than one plating fail,it eats the copper away underneath thin strike plating,having a copper additive *could* accelerate this.
Wisk is right in saying wait and see,however,its advisable to minimize risks beforehand.

A corrosion inhibitor is what it says on the tin,it _reduces_,not stops,corrosion,galvanic or otherwise. Also worth remembering is that galvanic corrosion is strictly linked to the potential of the items surface area ratio, temperature,
flow rate, composition of the electrolyte etc.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yes , Photo paper, a good photo printer and glue stick


Nice, I'm going to try this trick, thanks!


----------



## $ilent

But wait a second, that EK link says at the end of the test that to reduce the risk of corrosion, do not use metals (silver) or copper sulphate in the loop. PT Nuke is copper sulphate?!

So your not supposed to use either?? Just use distilled water?!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> But wait a second, that EK link says at the end of the test that to reduce the risk of corrosion, do not use metals (silver) or copper sulphate in the loop. PT Nuke is copper sulphate?!
> 
> So your not supposed to use either?? Just use distilled water?!


that was the conclusion of that particular study which I take was done in an University or research institute in Slovenia. He/She also suggested change frequently the water. PTnuke is copper sulphate so the test was done to investigate both silver coil and PTnuke. Personally I would run either clear water distilled and change more frequently the coolant or run a pre-mix like Mayhems or EK to minimize risks.


----------



## $ilent

Well I removed the silver kill coil from my loop. So now my loop has just distilled water and PT Nuke.

I will leave it like this now. before I got corrosion with running just DW, and the water had a film on it when I removed it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Well I removed the silver kill coil from my loop. So now my loop has just distilled water and PT Nuke.
> 
> I will leave it like this now. before I got corrosion with running just DW, and the water had a film on it when I removed it.


Depending on what kind of flexible tubing you're running, that film is likely the dreaded Plasticizer that is in all/most flexible tubing. You cannot get away from the stuff and one thing that we have found over time is it is leeched from the tubing due to heat. That film has nothing to do with the Distilled, but rather is the component that carries it inside the loop due to the heat being contained within the tubing on its way to the Radiator.

It's one reason why I chose to get rid of flexible tubing altogether. If I cannot trust the tubing in my loop, then what's the point of WC'ing. Yeah it's gonna cost more initially to go with Acrylic/PETG or Copper tubing but in the long run, I won't have to worry about plasticizer.









~Ceadder


----------



## $ilent

ahh ok. I use promochill primoflex advanced LRT tubing.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> What's the worst that can happen? Stuff needs cleaning, or replacing. *It's not going to blow up*. Just leave it for the moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well some people in here have said they heard its a bad idea but not elaborated on why its a bad idea (always helpful).
Click to expand...

Fixed the emphasis for you. Even if you get plasticiser, or corrosion, or algae. The loop will still work, in the short term anyway.

Overthinking possible issues is what I was driving at. Treating symptoms before they've presented, as House might say.

If you have issues later... you just scrub away the plasticiser (toothbrush+soap). Or polish the block (brasso? silvo?). Change the water, or change the tubing. Don't sweat the small stuff, just watch what happens. Second guessing the future is just making you crazy


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Fixed the emphasis for you. Even if you get plasticiser, or corrosion, or algae. The loop will still work, in the short term anyway.
> 
> Overthinking possible issues is what I was driving at. Treating symptoms before they've presented, as House might say.
> 
> If you have issues later... you just scrub away the plasticiser (toothbrush+soap). Or polish the block (brasso? silvo?). Change the water, or change the tubing. Don't sweat the small stuff, just watch what happens. Second guessing the future is just making you crazy


Thanks Wisky!

Ive removed the kill coil so now i just have PT nuke & DW. So We'll see how I get on!


----------



## Stateless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Yea i thought so as well. It would be worth it for sure if you invest a actual WC ready case.. maybe a Caselab or something bigger than 650D. I am currently saving some cash for Caselab Double wide case.... alot more room and easy to work with. This is what i'm saving up for...
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-th10a/ <---- Magnum TH10A,
> 
> 
> wicked case eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but who knows, maybe down road i might change mind for something else when something comes up.. but i'm def set on the double wide case... few buddies of mine has em and loves it..


I have that exact case and I love it. It is a great case, expensive, but well worth the investment.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> At least I'm close enough to Dazmode that I could pick up an order in person from his warehouse.


Since when does he started offering pickup now??


----------



## Malik

project Edelstein soon will be ready


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Thanks Wisky!
> 
> Ive removed the kill coil so now i just have PT nuke & DW. So We'll see how I get on!


Why do you mix anything in the distilled water? I have used distilled water for 7 months without anything in it, both used copper tubes, acrylic tubes, ek-zmt soft tube and primoflex advanced lrt, no problems what so ever. All those things you add to your loop is waste of money.


----------



## Vintage

Great work, Malik.









What case is that?


----------



## BillOhio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Since when does he started offering pickup now??


The Dazmode site says you can pick up an order by appointment if the order is over $300.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Great work, Malik.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case is that?


Looks like a Cooltek W2.


----------



## Malik

Exactly, that is Cooltek W2S. And here final photos:

*project* EDELSTEIN



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## BillOhio

^Looks Fantastic, Malik.


----------



## Malik

Thank U


----------



## erso44

malik, is that a soundcard in the last slot?
where are your hdd's?
can you give us some specs?

Great work. That blue water looks so great. Monoton. But never saw something like this...









What temps?
more info pls


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> malik, is that a soundcard in the last slot?
> where are your hdd's?
> can you give us some specs?
> 
> Great work. That blue water looks so great. Monoton. But never saw something like this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What temps?
> more info pls


1. Soundcard is in the last pcie slot
2. in second chamber
3.
Intel i7 4790K
Asus Z97-AR
Asus GTX 970 Strix
Bitspower BP-DDCPC-BK
Bitspower BP-DDCT2-CL
Bitspower BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKIBK
Bitspower BP VG-NGTX970ADIIS
Bitspower BP-BE240BSCU-BK
Bitspower BP-CBCPF-CC6V2
Bitspower BP-CB90R
Bitspower BP-CB45R
Bitspower BP-CBWP-C06
Bitspower BP-CBWP-C63
Cooltek W2S
Corsair Vengeance Pro Silver 16GB 2400Mhz
Ultimate Personal Computers cables
Noctua Redux 120mm fans
Seasonic Platinum 760W

4. Tests in progress


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 1. Soundcard is in the last pcie slot
> 2. in second chamber
> 3.
> Intel i7 4790K
> Asus Z97-AR
> Asus GTX 970 Strix
> Bitspower BP-DDCPC-BK
> Bitspower BP-DDCT2-CL
> Bitspower BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKIBK
> Bitspower BP VG-NGTX970ADIIS
> Bitspower BP-BE240BSCU-BK
> Bitspower BP-CBCPF-CC6V2
> Bitspower BP-CB90R
> Bitspower BP-CB45R
> Bitspower BP-CBWP-C06
> Bitspower BP-CBWP-C63
> Cooltek W2S
> Corsair Vengeance Pro Silver 16GB 2400Mhz
> Ultimate Personal Computers cables
> Noctua Redux 120mm fans
> Seasonic Platinum 760W
> 
> 4. Tests in progress


ok thanks. I'm really interested in your temps. That powerful cpu and thin radiator will be a challenge.
Did I see it correct you have only one rad?


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Exactly, that is Cooltek W2S. And here final photos:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> project EDELSTEIN


That is a beautiful setup you have Malik, great work.

Could you be so kind as to let me know what type of coolant that is please? It looks like exactly what I was hoping to get for my loop that I plan on doing SoonTM®


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not if you look a dedicated trans continent shipping,UPS and the like will charge considerably more.....
> 
> Also worth stuffing the case cavity with air bags.


I'm thinking of doing the same, shipping from SE Asia to Europe.

Would a month on the high seas worry you if it was wrapped, air bagged, crated and then stuck in a 40 footer?


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I'm thinking of doing the same, shipping from SE Asia to Europe.
> 
> Would a month on the high seas worry you if it was wrapped, air bagged, crated and then stuck in a 40 footer?


I would research something to aid in the reduction of salty moisture that will be in the air. Unless you plan on putting it in a air tight case, I would not ship it in a connex. I would try and find some large bags of desiccant that can be found in containers shipping electronic components.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Hey there everybody!! Has anyone ever used the thermosphere blocks? I'm thinking about getting a pair and an ek acrylic bridge for a pair of sapphire tri x 290x 8gb cards because they don't make full cover blocks. So I'm afraid that this is my only option. Also anybody know of any good tiny heatsinks for the vram and something good to attach them so they don't fall off easily?


----------



## Pitfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Exactly, that is Cooltek W2S. And here final photos:
> project EDELSTEIN


Great Job Malik!!! Simple, sweet, and beautiful!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Spoiler quoted pics please,leave one pic for reference but spoiler the rest.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Hey there everybody!! Has anyone ever used the thermosphere blocks? I'm thinking about getting a pair and an ek acrylic bridge for a pair of sapphire tri x 290x 8gb cards because they don't make full cover blocks. So I'm afraid that this is my only option. Also anybody know of any good tiny heatsinks for the vram and something good to attach them so they don't fall off easily?


Enzotech do lovely heatsinks with the thermal tape to attach them


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spoiler quoted pics please,leave one pic for reference but spoiler the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enzotech do lovely heatsinks with the thermal tape to attach them


Ok awsome I'll have to check those out. About how much do those run?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spoiler quoted pics please,leave one pic for reference but spoiler the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enzotech do lovely heatsinks with the thermal tape to attach them
> 
> 
> 
> Ok awsome I'll have to check those out. About how much do those run?
Click to expand...

about £12 for a pack of 8 VRAM in the UK.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That is a beautiful setup you have Malik, great work.
> 
> Could you be so kind as to let me know what type of coolant that is please? It looks like exactly what I was hoping to get for my loop that I plan on doing SoonTM®


That was Aqua-Computer DP Ultra blue liquid


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I'm thinking of doing the same, shipping from SE Asia to Europe.
> 
> Would a month on the high seas worry you if it was wrapped, air bagged, crated and then stuck in a 40 footer?
> 
> 
> 
> I would research something to aid in the reduction of salty moisture that will be in the air. Unless you plan on putting it in a air tight case, I would not ship it in a connex. I would try and find some large bags of desiccant that can be found in containers shipping electronic components.
Click to expand...

Wrap the box in saran wrap,job done and cheap as it gets.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project Edelstein soon will be ready
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean looking build.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> That was Aqua-Computer DP Ultra blue liquid


Ooh didn't know AquaComputers' made their own fluids, how do they stand up against the other competitors out there (if anyone knows)?


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
I was just looking around for water cooling things and I came across a "Delphi" ddc pump. What's everyone insight in this?

I don't need to buy it. I was just wondering if anyone had experience with it? I'm sure it comes in watercooled Macs.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I was just looking around for water cooling things and I came across a "Delphi" ddc pump. What's everyone insight in this?
> 
> I don't need to buy it. I was just wondering if anyone had experience with it? I'm sure it comes in watercooled Macs.


You'll be good to go. Delphis are Laing pumps.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I was just looking around for water cooling things and I came across a "Delphi" ddc pump. What's everyone insight in this?
> 
> I don't need to buy it. I was just wondering if anyone had experience with it? I'm sure it comes in watercooled Macs.


Sounds like you're talking about the DDC-1T-VC pump used in the G5. It got a bad reputation for being prone to leaking due to a failure of the membrane to the "Volume Compensator" extension chamber at the bottom of the pump that's not present in a normal DDC pump.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mac+delphi+pump+leak

Also, even if the pump isn't already leaking iirc Mac's used a saline coolant of some kind that became really corrosive and if the pump was used in that coolant it can have a bad reaction when introduced into a new loop.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mac+g5+saline+coolant


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sounds like you're talking about the DDC-1T-VC pump used in the G5. It got a bad reputation for being prone to leaking due to a failure of the membrane to the "Volume Compensator" extension chamber at the bottom of the pump that's not present in a normal DDC pump.
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=mac+delphi+pump+leak
> 
> Also, even if the pump isn't already leaking iirc Mac's used a saline coolant of some kind that became really corrosive and if the pump was used in that coolant it can have a bad reaction when introduced into a new loop.
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=mac+g5+saline+coolant


Oh cool. That's interesting. I was just going through all the old way people use to watercool their PCs. With aquarium pumps etc.

Thanks. +rep.


----------



## bundymania

Next build....this time with high end custom watercooling again


----------



## Coolzo

Let us know how that motherboard works out. I've been looking at that one myself (just bought a white NZXT H630 /w window), but the Newegg reviews are as mixed as ever...

EDIT: apparently I can't place quotes before the main text in my post, only after.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Next build....this time with high end custom watercooling again


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolzo*
> 
> Let us know how that motherboard works out. I've been looking at that one myself (just bought a white NZXT H630 /w window), but the Newegg reviews are as mixed as ever >.<


head over here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1510328/asus-x99-motherboard-series-official-support-thread-north-american-users-only

tons of users experience there. The board is solid although it did have a weird interaction between the Aquaero and the board USB that I think is solved now with recent BIOS.


----------



## Coolzo

Thank you sir! I will look it over. Can't wait to start building something again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> head over here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1510328/asus-x99-motherboard-series-official-support-thread-north-american-users-only
> 
> tons of users experience there. The board is solid although it did have a weird interaction between the Aquaero and the board USB that I think is solved now with recent BIOS.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> That was Aqua-Computer DP Ultra blue liquid


Thank you sir. +rep


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Next build....this time with high end custom watercooling again
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What's that large white Nova box in the back?


----------



## USMC Modder

Got some more water cooling parts in today. Time to get back to work.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> So apparently they are handing out free Alphacool radiators these days. Got my package of water cooling parts and it had a NeXxos XT45 in it.


Don't go telling everyone or they'll want it back! Or someone will get in trouble! take it and run (referencing build log with signature of QC guy initial on it)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

who is they? Thats really cool though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Next build....this time with high end custom watercooling again


Is that Owl that won the 2010 case design competition from Phobya?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Next build....this time with high end custom watercooling again
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that Owl that won the 2010 case design competition from Phobya?
Click to expand...

That's exactly what it is: http://www.aquatuning.us/shopware.php?sViewport=campaign&emotionId=887


----------



## Gabrielzm

Woah...Was going to order a small 120 x 120 mm EK PE rad and notice that prices went up in ~30% from 2 weeks ago.








I paid 41 Euros for a 240 mm PE 2 weeks ago and now is 54 (excl VAT) on EK shop...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Next build....this time with high end custom watercooling again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that Owl that won the 2010 case design competition from Phobya?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's exactly what it is: http://www.aquatuning.us/shopware.php?sViewport=campaign&emotionId=887
Click to expand...

Gawd . . . It's Fugly

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Woah...Was going to order a small 120 x 120 mm EK PE rad and notice that prices went up in ~30% from 2 weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paid 41 Euros for a 240 mm PE 2 weeks ago and now is 54 (excl VAT) on EK shop...


The dollar has taken several hits against the euro in the past couple weeks. Here's news just from today:

April 6 2015 Dollar Extends losses against euro in wake of poor jobs report
Euro inches higher on comments from Fed's Dudley, ISM report
https://secure.marketwatch.com/story/dollar-steady-against-yen-after-sliding-on-jobs-data-2015-04-06

The exchange rates change day to day but the drop of the Euro to almost 1-1 with the US Dollar like we had been seeing recently was a bit of an anomaly. Not sure if/when we'll see something like that again.


----------



## mr one

I was kinda surprised how even AIO liquid coolers on fleabay goes fast up in prices on some auctions, why we dont have someone in sale spot from europe who wants to get rid of something like h100







my windmill is making me nuts and i miss when i had a cpu loop :/


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> What's that large white Nova box in the back?


Finally....

Pic posted in 20+ forums and 25+ FB groups and your´re the first who is asking...yay
















It´s a Quanum Nova Quadcopter


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The dollar has taken several hits against the euro in the past couple weeks. Here's news just from today:
> 
> April 6 2015 Dollar Extends losses against euro in wake of poor jobs report
> Euro inches higher on comments from Fed's Dudley, ISM report
> https://secure.marketwatch.com/story/dollar-steady-against-yen-after-sliding-on-jobs-data-2015-04-06
> 
> The exchange rates change day to day but the drop of the Euro to almost 1-1 with the US Dollar like we had been seeing recently was a bit of an anomaly. Not sure if/when we'll see something like that again.


Appreciate that mate but I am not in the US. Besides the exchange rate when I got the 2x 240 mm PE rads and one 360 PE was 1 euro to 1.075 dollar and now is 1.097 so that would still not account for an almost 30% increase in the price...

edit - one more evidence. The titan x block is still the same price I paid on MArch 23th. So clearly that was a raise on the PE rads... http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-gtx-9x0-series/ek-fc-titan-x-nickel.html


----------



## catbuster

Yes 120 rad was 36 euro and 240 was 51 euro in ekwb shop last week... so damn nice...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Yes 120 rad was 36 euro and 240 was 51 euro in ekwb shop last week... so damn nice...


I actually paid 41.63 euros on each 240 mm (got 2) and 52.46 on the 360 mm PE. Really good deal







But now the 120 mm PE is the same price the 240 mm on MArch 23th and the 240 mm is 54 euros and the 360 68 euros... I wonder what happen since the price increase seems to be on the PE rads, not on blocks or fittings so far as I can tell.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The exchange rates change day to day but the drop of the Euro to almost 1-1 with the US Dollar like we had been seeing recently was a bit of an anomaly. Not sure if/when we'll see something like that again.


Dang, wish that I had happen when I bought my eLoops off Aquatuning. Was 1 dollar = 0.83 euro that day when I bought them. Lucky enough, still came out a bit cheaper then my first three off FrozenCPU last year. If not for the shipping cost, they would of been extremely cheaper. Hmmm, wonder if Aquatuning would ship to a PO box or something else on a military base since I be in Britain in June for a bit. That would probably drop the shipping big time.


----------



## Devildog83

Welcome to the currency exchange rate thread.









I think I am going to flush and go with straight distilled. I don't like this. Rig is not quite done by the way.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> The Dazmode site says you can pick up an order by appointment if the order is over $300.


Was that just recently? I didn't see that option when i bought stuff from them about a year or so ago.


----------



## LandonAaron

I have an EK Mosfet plexi block that I sanded and polished and now I can't get the O-ring to stay in place. Is there anything I can put in the groove withe the Oring to help hold it in place long enough for me to get the block screwed down?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have an EK Mosfet plexi block that I sanded and polished and now I can't get the O-ring to stay in place. Is there anything I can put in the groove withe the Oring to help hold it in place long enough for me to get the block screwed down?


Silicone grease


----------



## BillOhio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Was that just recently? I didn't see that option when i bought stuff from them about a year or so ago.


I couldn't say as to when that option became available as I've only just started looking at Watercooling and the Dazmode sight. Would definitely prefer to pick up a large order than ship it though. I guess you can pick up stuff at NCIX but I'd rather buy from Daz and am a little surprised that his prices on the things I've checked (mostly radiators) are better than NCIX.


----------



## LandonAaron

Suggestions for a 420mm radiator optimized for high RPM fans. Thickness isn't an issue as it will be externally mounted. I was looking at the alpha cool monsta but it seems more optimized for low RPM fans and I am more interested in maximum cooling capabilit. I already have a low RPM radiator in my loop and want to add a radiator more geared to maximum cooling for when I need it.


----------



## cstkl1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Suggestions for a 420mm radiator optimized for high RPM fans. Thickness isn't an issue as it will be externally mounted. I was looking at the alpha cool monsta but it seems more optimized for low RPM fans and I am more interested in maximum cooling capabilit. I already have a low RPM radiator in my loop and want to add a radiator more geared to maximum cooling for when I need it.


Hwlabs gtx.

Not the nemesis gtx but the one before. Afaik its unchallenged on high rpm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stateless

I have a Case Lab TH10 case and I have 2 Rads on the bottom, so air gets sucked up from the bottom and through the rad for cooling. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can use as a fan filter that would work good with a case labs case, but also still provide good air flow. My Wife has cat's and I don't want cat hair sucking up into the rads, so need something that would be good to keep cat hair out.

Thanks!


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I have a Case Lab TH10 case and I have 2 Rads on the bottom, so air gets sucked up from the bottom and through the rad for cooling. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can use as a fan filter that would work good with a case labs case, but also still provide good air flow. My Wife has cat's and I don't want cat hair sucking up into the rads, so need something that would be good to keep cat hair out.
> 
> Thanks!


DEMCiflex filter kit for TH10

Not sure if they have a single filter sold separately, but I am sure you could look.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Suggestions for a 420mm radiator optimized for high RPM fans. Thickness isn't an issue as it will be externally mounted. I was looking at the alpha cool monsta but it seems more optimized for low RPM fans and I am more interested in maximum cooling capabilit. I already have a low RPM radiator in my loop and want to add a radiator more geared to maximum cooling for when I need it.


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/7/

koolance is the winner at high speeds at least on the poll of rads tested. Monsta is actually a better performer at high speeds single row of fans or medium to low speed with push/pull. So, depends on how you want to run the rad push/pull or single row.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have an EK Mosfet plexi block that I sanded and polished and now I can't get the O-ring to stay in place. Is there anything I can put in the groove withe the Oring to help hold it in place long enough for me to get the block screwed down?


Place the o-ring in the grove of the base of the block and then tape it down using scotch tape. Use a few pieces of tape to keep the o-ring in place. Then, screw the top onto the block and you should be able to pull the tape out from between the base and the top. I did this on my 7970 block. It worked well.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have an EK Mosfet plexi block that I sanded and polished and now I can't get the O-ring to stay in place. Is there anything I can put in the groove withe the Oring to help hold it in place long enough for me to get the block screwed down?
> 
> 
> 
> Silicone grease
Click to expand...

^ This. I use a tiny dab of silicone o-ring grease on all o-rings before installing as it aids in sealing and preserving them, and especially those after having taken a block apart because it helps hold them in place. Here's a third on doing that also ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use silicone grease on all o-rings,its a requirement if you start stripping GPU blocks as it holds those houdini o-rings in place.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I have a Case Lab TH10 case and I have 2 Rads on the bottom, so air gets sucked up from the bottom and through the rad for cooling. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can use as a fan filter that would work good with a case labs case, but also still provide good air flow. My Wife has cat's and I don't want cat hair sucking up into the rads, *so need something that would be good to keep cat hair out*.
> 
> Thanks!


As a more exciting alternative to the Demciflex filters . . . .

How about a big badass dog? . . .









D.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I have a Case Lab TH10 case and I have 2 Rads on the bottom, so air gets sucked up from the bottom and through the rad for cooling. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can use as a fan filter that would work good with a case labs case, but also still provide good air flow. My Wife has cat's and I don't want cat hair sucking up into the rads, so need something that would be good to keep cat hair out.
> 
> Thanks!


I second the suggestion of DemciFlex filters. I've used them in the past and they were great.

A good cheap alternative is women's pantyhose. That's what I use for my work computer in the shop. Doesn't look the greatest, but it works pretty well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As a more exciting alternative to the Demciflex filters . . . .
> 
> How about a big badass dog? . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Or this... Big dogs are the best(no offense to Magoo)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## LandonAaron

Does anyone know how the Coolgate Triple 140mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger Radiator compares to the Coolgate G2. I wanted a Coolgate G2 after reading this radiator roundup http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/7/, but I can't find the 420mm version.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Does anyone know how the Coolgate Triple 140mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger Radiator compares to the Coolgate G2. I wanted a Coolgate G2 after reading this radiator roundup http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/7/, but I can't find the 420mm version.


I have a CG360 to add to the round-up......
BUT not yet been tested.
If I was forced to make an educated guestimate, something similar performance wise to the RX V2


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I have a Case Lab TH10 case and I have 2 Rads on the bottom, so air gets sucked up from the bottom and through the rad for cooling. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can use as a fan filter that would work good with a case labs case, but also still provide good air flow. My Wife has cat's and I don't want cat hair sucking up into the rads, *so need something that would be good to keep cat hair out*.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> As a more exciting alternative to the Demciflex filters . . . .
> 
> How about a small badass dog? . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

FTFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I have a Case Lab TH10 case and I have 2 Rads on the bottom, so air gets sucked up from the bottom and through the rad for cooling. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can use as a fan filter that would work good with a case labs case, but also still provide good air flow. My Wife has cat's and I don't want cat hair sucking up into the rads, so need something that would be good to keep cat hair out.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I second the suggestion of DemciFlex filters. I've used them in the past and they were great.
> 
> A good cheap alternative is women's pantyhose. That's what I use for my work computer in the shop. Doesn't look the greatest, but it works pretty well
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As a more exciting alternative to the Demciflex filters . . . .
> 
> How about a small badass dog? . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or this... Big dogs are the best(no offense to Magoo)
Click to expand...

Magoo knows where you live.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


How much just for that one turn (







)? Looks slick


----------



## dallas1990

Saw this and thought can this passive cool a Titan x


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How much just for that one turn (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )? Looks slick


78$







Better than cutting into the back wall! I really didn't even have the option to cut because I would have messed up the Track that the Motherboard slides on

Heres a couple more for you Wermad












This is what I did today.









TCO

Check the build log for more pics.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 78$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better than cutting into the back wall! I really didn't even have the option to cut because I would have messed up the Track that the Motherboard slides on
> 
> Heres a couple more for you Wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I did today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Check the build log for more pics.


Wait, the motherboard slides on a track? Where is it going?


----------



## remixedMind

its a removable motherboard tray


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Wait, the motherboard slides on a track? Where is it going?


Its going TO BE A STAR!! It's Removable









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remixedMind*
> 
> its a removable motherboard tray










This man knows.

Maybe this will help Tame the Idea



The Cautious One


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have an EK Mosfet plexi block that I sanded and polished and now I can't get the O-ring to stay in place. Is there anything I can put in the groove withe the Oring to help hold it in place long enough for me to get the block screwed down?


Vaseline works like a charm.


----------



## snef

@TheCautiousOne

Wow Great job mate

some EK-Vardar F3 painted


----------



## wermad

@ TCO awesome work dude


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne
> 
> Wow Great job mate
> 
> some EK-Vardar F3 painted
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Snef. Im still getting over The Bloody Angel Sale







But I really appreciate the Words Mate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ TCO awesome work dude


Wermad you know you rock right? Thanks for the compliment. I am really trying over HerE!!!!

TCO


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have an EK Mosfet plexi block that I sanded and polished and now I can't get the O-ring to stay in place. Is there anything I can put in the groove withe the Oring to help hold it in place long enough for me to get the block screwed down?
> 
> 
> 
> Vaseline works like a charm.
Click to expand...

Petrolatum (aka Petroleum jelly) products like Vaseline should not be considered safe to use on o-rings. It can cause damage to them more or less so depending on what they are made of. Nitrile tends to be ok, and neoprene is so-so, but petroleum jelly will cripple EPDM or isoprene o-rings in short order, which could cause serious damage to someone's system. Many o-rings used in watercooling, for example Bitspower o-rings tend to be EPDM.

http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-5

Silicone grease, aka o-ring grease, is well suited specifically for use on all o-rings commonly used in watercooling. It's readily available, doesn't cost much, a little will last a long time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well said and worth a +Rep.

~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Petrolatum (aka Petroleum jelly) products like Vaseline should not be considered safe to use on o-rings. It can cause damage to them more or less so depending on what they are made of. Nitrile tends to be ok, and neoprene is so-so, but petroleum jelly will cripple EPDM or isoprene o-rings in short order, which could cause serious damage to someone's system. Many o-rings used in watercooling, for example Bitspower o-rings tend to be EPDM.
> 
> http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-5
> 
> Silicone grease, aka o-ring grease, is well suited specifically for use on all o-rings commonly used in watercooling. It's readily available, doesn't cost much, a little will last a long time.


Okay thanks for the heads up. I just ordered this from amazon:



I guess I will take the oring out and wash it, while I wait on the grease to arrive.

I don't really want to remove it though. It was a massive pain to get it in place. Spent nearly 3 hours trying to get it put back together. Though once I decided to just lather it up in vaseline it didn't take too many trys. Hopefully the grease will work the same way at holding in place.


----------



## wermad

Plumbing aisle at Homes or Lowes, ~$3.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne
> 
> Wow Great job mate
> 
> some EK-Vardar F3 painted
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images:


How did you paint them? Also, how did you get them apart?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magoo knows where you live.


That's one heck of a long swim


----------



## BillOhio

I'm starting to wonder if it would be possible to cut the bottom 6 inches off of a Corsair 650 D and, after some bending, patching and 'fashioning', jbweld, L Brackets, Bondo... create a pedestal for another 650D... or is this a pretty much sure fire way to just destroy 2 cases...


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if it would be possible to cut the bottom 6 inches off of a Corsair 650 D and, after some bending, patching and 'fashioning', jbweld, L Brackets, Bondo... create a pedestal for another 650D... or is this a pretty much sure fire way to just destroy 2 cases...


You could probably just build a pedestal yourself from some angled aluminum and aluminum sheets. I've seen a few other people doing it with the NXPT Switch 810. I think DWood was even making and selling them for a while


----------



## BillOhio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You could probably just build a pedestal yourself from some angled aluminum and aluminum sheets. I've seen a few other people doing it with the NXPT Switch 810. I think DWood was even making and selling them for a while


Yeah, I guess I wouldn't have to chop up a $200 (Canadian) Case just for a pedestal. I'd like to think that I'd have figured that out before too long... Thanks morencyam


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> Yeah, I guess I wouldn't have to chop up a $200 (Canadian) Case just for a pedestal. I'd like to think that I'd have figured that out before too long... Thanks morencyam


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> [/SPOILER]How did you paint them? Also, how did you get them apart?


Take off the label on the back, use a thin screwdriver or similar object to unhook the c-clip and you can then pull the blades off.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Take off the label on the back, use a thin screwdriver or similar object to unhook the c-clip and you can then pull the blades off.


Wow. That is alot easier than I though it would be.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Wow. That is alot easier than I though it would be.


It's not much different than the GTs in that regard, although I am sure EK is tired of the GT comparison by now


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Take off the label on the back, use a thin screwdriver or similar object to unhook the c-clip and you can then pull the blades off.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Wow. That is alot easier than I though it would be.


Just to add to that, make sure you keep your hand ocer the c-clip while removing it because they have a tendency to shoot across the room never to be seen again. I've made that mistake, not when I painted my GTs, but with other products that use the same style clips.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's not much different than the GTs in that regard, although I am sure EK is tired of the GT comparison by now


Well, when they claim that they are better fans, they are pretty much asking to be compared to GTs.


----------



## BillOhio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*


So... in considering one of the nicer Caselabs cases for an eventual first WC'd build, by the time I configured the case past the base configuration, then got hammered in the exchange to Canadian dollars, then shipping and probably duty and possibly brokerage I'm pretty sure I'd be well past $1,000 and maybe approaching $1,200 which is, well... not gonna happen any time soon...

...but I really do Like my 650D. I don't have the tools to create a factory looking ped but I'm guessing a local fabricator would charge me less than $1,200 to bend me a metal box. I also like the idea of cutting out the window of the 650D and dropping in the larger (I think) window of 350D back into that same panel or at least turning the 650d's window sideways to show off a res and pump rather than half of the PSU and cables. Toronto traffic sucks but there Are some advantages to living in such a large city and I'm seeing some not-completely-industrial metal work shops that look like they take on some funky projects.

This could be


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Just to add to that, make sure you keep your hand ocer the c-clip while removing it because they have a tendency to shoot across the room never to be seen again. I've made that mistake, not when I painted my GTs, but with other products that use the same style clips.
> Well, when they claim that they are better fans, they are pretty much asking to be compared to GTs.


I just tried it on one of my spare 80mm fans and, well.... I didn't need that fan anyway... I lost the clip before I read your post about making sure not to lose it.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I just tried it on one of my spare 80mm fans and, well.... I didn't need that fan anyway... I lost the clip before I read your post about making sure not to lose it.


bound to happen man lol its just as easy to lose them once you get them off too. I always either put them into a cup of some kind or tape them to my work bench


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if it would be possible to cut the bottom 6 inches off of a Corsair 650 D and, after some bending, patching and 'fashioning', jbweld, L Brackets, Bondo... create a pedestal for another 650D... or is this a pretty much sure fire way to just destroy 2 cases...


I'm much more a fan of carefully cutting and tig welding when it comes to creating a unique case style from multiple single cases . . . . .



Whether it destroyed 3 perfectly good cases is open to individual opinion . . . .

Darlene


----------



## BillOhio

Darlene stole my idea!

...










Did you build that? It is, of course, very very impressive.

My first thought was in that sort of direction, inventing the 1300d by combinining two 650ds just adding 4 inches to the back of one with another but I'm pretty confident that I'd just end up with 2 ruined cases, J.B Weld all over everything and a seriouslly unamused wife. I'm not _the_ least handy guy in the world but I have no real workspace or metal working tools and I don't want to wing it with $400 worth of cases.

Caselabs sells their single wide peds for ~$190. I wonder if it's realistic to hope that I could get one made locally for something in that general ballpark (under $250(?)) If not, maybe I could build a pedestal frame out of angle bar and L brackets and work from there.

edit: looking through your epic build logs now


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw this and thought can this passive cool a Titan x


Not sure if that radiators, but sound dampers for jet engines. Maybe something used in the test houses for rebuilt ones.


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Not sure if that radiators, but sound dampers for jet engines. Maybe something used in the test houses for rebuilt ones.


it's a radiator for a big dump truck or a bulldozer. I work at a caterpillar factory.


----------



## generalkayoss

I wonder how many 290X cards that thing could cool.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm much more a fan of carefully cutting and tig welding when it comes to creating a unique case style from multiple single cases . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Whether it destroyed 3 perfectly good cases is open to individual opinion . . . .
> 
> Darlene


6 X D5s ? what are you cooling Darlene a Nuclear Reactor ?


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> I wonder how many 290X cards that thing could cool.


All of them.


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> I wonder how many 290X cards that thing could cool.


1 lol


----------



## 1Quickchic

Holy crap Darlene that thing is sick!! There like needs to be a computer builders hall of fame or something because this definitely would belong there.


----------



## dallas1990

With 6 d5 pumps?!? God I hope you have enough to cool all them cards lol


----------



## electro2u

Butch: "It's a chopper, baby."


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> With 6 d5 pumps?!? God I hope you have enough to cool all them cards lol


It's actually 3 X dual D5 setups, one for each loop.

They are all PWM pumps, so I can run them slow and quiet, as well as having redundancy.

The res setup is my own mod to mount a res over each pump, but each pair fills, returns, and feeds the right side pump of each pump pair just like a single res on a Bitspower dual D5 top.

Initial testing:


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's actually 3 X dual D5 setups, one for each loop.
> 
> They are all PWM pumps, so I can run them slow and quiet, as well as having redundancy.
> 
> The res setup is my own mod to mount a res over each pump, but each pair fills, returns, and feeds the right side pump of each pump pair just like a single res on a Bitspower dual D5 top.
> 
> Initial testing:


Looks sweet man but kinda of a plumbing nightmare with inadequate room. I like how it looks like a chemistry set in a way







great job though


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillOhio*
> 
> So... in considering one of the nicer Caselabs cases for an eventual first WC'd build, by the time I configured the case past the base configuration, then got hammered in the exchange to Canadian dollars, then shipping and probably duty and possibly brokerage I'm pretty sure I'd be well past $1,000 and maybe approaching $1,200 which is, well... not gonna happen any time soon...


I could have sworn DazMode carried some of the more "popular" CaseLabs cases and configurations. Worth at least checking out since he is in Canada.


----------



## BillOhio

He's a 30 minute drive from me, and he does have 1 caselabs for sale at the moment, a white SM5. I'll keep an eye on his site and see what comes in to stock. Maybe I'll email him to see if he takes requests. I kind of like the idea though of putting a ped under a 650D.


----------



## Ceadderman

You could get a 19th and mos it to the 650D or get a Corsair mITX case and mod it to fit under one. Not sure of the dimensions of either, but it's worth looking.









~Ceadder


----------



## BillOhio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You could get a 19th and mos it to the 650D or get a Corsair mITX case and mod it to fit under one. Not sure of the dimensions of either, but it's worth looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hi Ceadder, that sounds interesting, I agree. You say I could get a '19th' though and I confess that I'm not sure what that refers to?

Thanks for thinking of this,
-Bill


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry, stupod phone auto corrected. That was supposed to be "935r".

Now obviously you would have to mod the face of it, but it's a natural pedestal. Since I am on my phone I cannot check the specs. But it may work and cost you less in the process.

~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Think I found my next radiator:



I am actually kind of considering this. I could mount it to the rear of my computer and it would be about 6 inches off the ground with my computer on its current stand. How much do you think that ways when filled with water? Its an 840mm radiator, 140mm x 6.

http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/radiators/radiators-active/12788/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-system-840-mm-aluminum-fins-one-circuit-stainless-steel-side-panels?c=590


----------



## Ceadderman

Your computer would be like Dominic Torreto's Charger during launch I think.









~Ceadder


----------



## BillOhio

Just as a very quick and rough sketch I'm picturing getting 8 pieces of angle iron cut and to spec for the 650D and welded together. The cost on that shouldn't be to crazy, I wouldn't expect. From there I ought to be able to Dremel and Jigsaw the cutouts I'd need for each of the individual panels and a mid plate from 3/16" Aluminum before JB Welding or bolting each of those individual panels and the feet onto that angle iron frame. I dunno...


----------



## USMC Modder

I am finalizing my plan for my loop. I have a crood representation of my tubing runs. The red line is where I'm going to shorten that tube up to match it with the vertical fitting on the CPU block. I want to try and make the lines look like they are following one straight path around the case.. The only place there will be two runs ran together is the left side for GPU to the radiator and the radiator to the CPU, if that makes sense. My question is on aesthetics though. My plan is to paint the CPU bracket white and leave the radiators black. Should I do it this way, paint them all white, or leave them all black? Any input would be great. Also, any recomendations on my loop layout good or bad would be nice.

Sorry for the pic. Took it with my phone this morning before I left the house.


----------



## 1Quickchic

USMC Modder, is that one rad going to be enough to cool 2 cards and the cpu? I only ask as I am cooling my 2 titans,and 4790 and I had 4 rads, granted temps are great well cept cpu but that because of airflow through the front rad is somewhat covered (Corsair 750D) but as soon as Corsair makes their updated vented front I will be replacing what I got.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I am finalizing my plan for my loop. I have a crood representation of my tubing runs. The red line is where I'm going to shorten that tube up to match it with the vertical fitting on the CPU block. I want to try and make the lines look like they are following one straight path around the case.. The only place there will be two runs ran together is the left side for GPU to the radiator and the radiator to the CPU, if that makes sense. My question is on aesthetics though. My plan is to paint the CPU bracket white and leave the radiators black. Should I do it this way, paint them all white, or leave them all black? Any input would be great. Also, any recomendations on my loop layout good or bad would be nice.
> 
> Sorry for the pic. Took it with my phone this morning before I left the house.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Leave it black!

Looks similar to the Parvum I built as well! Check mine out for a little options on loop layout.



TCO


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's actually 3 X dual D5 setups, one for each loop.
> 
> They are all PWM pumps, so I can run them slow and quiet, as well as having redundancy.
> 
> The res setup is my own mod to mount a res over each pump, but each pair fills, returns, and feeds the right side pump of each pump pair just like a single res on a Bitspower dual D5 top.
> 
> Initial testing:


hardcore:drool:#


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Quickchic*
> 
> USMC Modder, is that one rad going to be enough to cool 2 cards and the cpu? I only ask as I am cooling my 2 titans,and 4790 and I had 4 rads, granted temps are great well cept cpu but that because of airflow through the front rad is somewhat covered (Corsair 750D) but as soon as Corsair makes their updated vented front I will be replacing what I got.


There is another XSPC AX 240 for the top. I just have the top off right now because it's easier to work in.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Quickchic*
> 
> USMC Modder, is that one rad going to be enough to cool 2 cards and the cpu? I only ask as I am cooling my 2 titans,and 4790 and I had 4 rads, granted temps are great well cept cpu but that because of airflow through the front rad is somewhat covered (Corsair 750D) but as soon as Corsair makes their updated vented front I will be replacing what I got.


Pretty sure you cant see the 2nd rad cause it isn't mounted. Note the two blue lines on the left, they are going to go to the top rad, which I would imagine is going to be a 360 or 480.

*nvm he answered you.*


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Leave it black!
> 
> Looks similar to the Parvum I built as well! Check mine out for a little options on loop layout.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yours was one of the builds I got an idea of my tubing layout from







. I agree that the rads look good in your build black, but you also have the black an orange case. Where mine is white and blue. I think I'm just going to plastidip one of them white and see how it looks and take a pole in my build log.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Whether it destroyed 3 perfectly good cases is open to individual opinion . . . .
> 
> Darlene


Its a thing of beauty IMO,

Reminds me of the ride I got to and from High School Prom.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Yours was one of the builds I got an idea of my tubing layout from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I agree that the rads look good in your build black, but you also have the black an orange case. Where mine is white and blue. I *think I'm just going to plastidip one of them white* and see how it looks and take a pole in my build log.


I think that is a great Idea!


----------



## LandonAaron

Is the Phobya G-Changer and Alphacool UT60 the same rad, just with different branding?

They are both 60mm thick and have 10 FPI, and the connection ports look really similar. They even come with the same hardware it seems.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah they are more or less the same rad
for a while on ppcs they had a bunch of phobyas or UT60s at 35% off because they were in the other rad's box

they were phobyas and boxed as ut60s or something


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone have luck or have aqua suite work in Linux Ubuntu or any other distro? Haven't tried yet but I know I'll need access to it with te pa2 usb ultra I'll be using in the JAC build to aid with the fans


----------



## rlb9682

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*


What fans are those, and how do they perform? They look great.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Its going TO BE A STAR!! It's Removable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This man knows.
> 
> Maybe this will help Tame the Idea
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


That's amazing. Every time you slide that out you must feel like an astronaut repairing something on the international space station.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> That's amazing. Every time you slide that out you must feel like an astronaut repairing something on the international space station.


I know I feel awesome sliding the tray out on my M8


----------



## rlb9682

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Okay thanks for the heads up. I just ordered this from amazon:
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will take the oring out and wash it, while I wait on the grease to arrive.
> 
> I don't really want to remove it though. It was a massive pain to get it in place. Spent nearly 3 hours trying to get it put back together. Though once I decided to just lather it up in vaseline it didn't take too many trys. Hopefully the grease will work the same way at holding in place.


Am I the only one who doesn't use anything like this? I've never had a problem getting the insert out of the PETG tubing I use and the one time I tested silicone lube like that, when I heated the tubing it stuck to the inside walls and I had to break that test piece to get the insert out. At any rate, I've never used anything on the insert and it comes out easily every time. I guess I"m just not sure why others use it when the one time I tried it didn't seem to work at all.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> That's amazing. Every time you slide that out you must feel like an astronaut repairing something on the international space station.


Was hoping the pic would help. It's great when adding GPU's and working on the Cpu. Very easy to work on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know I feel awesome sliding the tray out on my M8










Exactly.

TCO


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlb9682*
> 
> What fans are those, and how do they perform? They look great.


Those are Thermaltake Odin fans. Awesome case fans, but also ok for rad usage. Silent up to 7V

http://www.thermaltake.com/Cooling/Case_Fan_/Odin/C_00002341/Odin_12_LED/design.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diMr5KPTDfY


----------



## Yungbenny911

Current build stat







, still a lot to do. Build Log *HERE*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlb9682*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Okay thanks for the heads up. I just ordered this from amazon:
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will take the oring out and wash it, while I wait on the grease to arrive.
> 
> I don't really want to remove it though. It was a massive pain to get it in place. Spent nearly 3 hours trying to get it put back together. Though once I decided to just lather it up in vaseline it didn't take too many trys. Hopefully the grease will work the same way at holding in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Am I the only one who doesn't use anything like this? I've never had a problem getting the insert out of the PETG tubing I use and the one time I tested silicone lube like that, when I heated the tubing it stuck to the inside walls and I had to break that test piece to get the insert out. At any rate, I've never used anything on the insert and it comes out easily every time. I guess I"m just not sure why others use it when the one time I tried it didn't seem to work at all.
Click to expand...

He isnt using it for silicone inserts,he is using it to prepare GPU o-rings.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlb9682*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Okay thanks for the heads up. I just ordered this from amazon:
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will take the oring out and wash it, while I wait on the grease to arrive.
> 
> I don't really want to remove it though. It was a massive pain to get it in place. Spent nearly 3 hours trying to get it put back together. Though once I decided to just lather it up in vaseline it didn't take too many trys. Hopefully the grease will work the same way at holding in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Am I the only one who doesn't use anything like this? I've never had a problem getting the insert out of the PETG tubing I use and the one time I tested silicone lube like that, when I heated the tubing it stuck to the inside walls and I had to break that test piece to get the insert out. At any rate, I've never used anything on the insert and it comes out easily every time. I guess I"m just not sure why others use it when the one time I tried it didn't seem to work at all.
Click to expand...











Use the silicon paste/lube for seals not hard line lube.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rlb9682*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Okay thanks for the heads up. I just ordered this from amazon:
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will take the oring out and wash it, while I wait on the grease to arrive.
> 
> I don't really want to remove it though. It was a massive pain to get it in place. Spent nearly 3 hours trying to get it put back together. Though once I decided to just lather it up in vaseline it didn't take too many trys. Hopefully the grease will work the same way at holding in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Am I the only one who doesn't use anything like this? I've never had a problem getting the insert out of the PETG tubing I use and the one time I tested silicone lube like that, when I heated the tubing it stuck to the inside walls and I had to break that test piece to get the insert out. At any rate, I've never used anything on the insert and it comes out easily every time. I guess I"m just not sure why others use it when the one time I tried it didn't seem to work at all.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the silicon paste/lube for seals not hard line lube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

If you are using a lube for hardline bending then something is wrong.

In other news,the res for IDORU is in the polishing phase to get rid of the mill marks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Mmmmmm Co oopper.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Woot, woot,







. Time to relocate the psu


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Woot, woot,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Time to relocate the psu


Good lord Wermad... And where is my Anime Avatar!!!!!

TCO


----------



## VSG

I think I recognize that from somewhere


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Woot, woot,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Time to relocate the psu


How are those dual 295x2 working out for you? Do they work good for 4k gaming? Thinking about either trading my 290x 8gb cards for one or just getting 2 more lol. Just seeing if the quad fire is working out for you?


----------



## wermad

@TCO: mlp season started. Pleases my little girl and the brony in me







. Gonna get a tshirt w/ the mustsng logo with brony







. Back to work so haven't found time for a new anime.

@Geggeg: tnx again dude










@jesusnadinosaur:
far I've only been playing metro LL ranger hardcore. The game play is smooth except for the occasional game just stutters only in the opening crdits/launch. It's like it wants to switch to physx which I know causes this same effect in game. I have phyx turn off and it's smooth buttah.


----------



## LandonAaron

So trying to pick out a new radiator to replace my XSPC EX 420. I have pretty much narrowed down my choices to either the EK XTC 420 or Alphacool UT60 420. Thoughts on which I should go with?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So trying to pick out a new radiator to replace my XSPC EX 420. I have pretty much narrowed down my choices to either the EK XTC 420 or Alphacool UT60 420. Thoughts on which I should go with?


do you need the extra ports the UT60 offer? That is the most compelling reason to go with the UT. It is also a very solid performer. On the other hand the finish quality is not on par with EK or XSPC (and certainly not with HWLabs) and internally is really dirty...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So trying to pick out a new radiator to replace my XSPC EX 420. I have pretty much narrowed down my choices to either the EK XTC 420 or Alphacool UT60 420. Thoughts on which I should go with?
> 
> 
> 
> do you need the extra ports the UT60 offer? That is the most compelling reason to go with the UT. It is also a very solid performer. On the other hand the finish quality is not on par with EK or XSPC (and certainly not with HWLabs) and internally is really dirty...
Click to expand...

True all that.

That reminds me, I apologize if it's been mentioned in this thread already and I just missed it somehow but that Mick (@Mayhem) in the Mayhems Club thread recently mentioned that Aquatuning / Alphacool / Phobya should soon have an OCN rep on site.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aquatuning / Phobya/ Alphacool will soon have a rep on OCN. Spoke to them over the weekend in length and things are changing. So soon you can chat to them direct but i will pass on your concerns i read and have read in this post.


I suspect this should lead to some interesting discussions, to say the least. Hopefully some good will come from it and they take some of the most common criticisms seriously and leads to some improvements / changes. It would be pretty awesome if they would up their QA/QC and especially with regards to a proper factory flushing of their rads.


----------



## LandonAaron

I don't know. I'm starting to think upgrading from a 420mm to another 420 may not be much of an upgrade. But then again, I kind of feel like these high RPM fans are wasted on the XSPC EX rad.

Think I may instead get a 580mm rad and just let it hang down lower than the PC, as the current rad is externally mounted anyway. Also considering getting a MO-RA3. Would be a bit more expensive, and would need to buy 3 more fans to do Push on one side, or 11 more fans (ouch) to do push/pull. But I think it would be pretty sweet looking having a wing nearly the same size as my PC bolted to the side, and I the cooling performance would be amazing.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I don't know. I'm starting to think upgrading from a 420mm to another 420 may not be much of an upgrade. But then again, I kind of feel like these high RPM fans are wasted on the XSPC EX rad.
> 
> Think I may instead get a 580mm rad and just let it hang down lower than the PC, as the current rad is externally mounted anyway. Also considering getting a MO-RA3. Would be a bit more expensive, and would need to buy 3 more fans to do Push on one side, or 11 more fans (ouch) to do push/pull. But I think it would be pretty sweet looking having a wing nearly the same size as my PC bolted to the side, and I the cooling performance would be amazing.


or an aquacomputer tower







Honestly, save your money. Going from a 420 to another would not make that much difference mate.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21254/ex-wat-272/Aquacomputer_Airplex_GIGANT_1680_External_Radiator_-_Aluminum_Fins_33301.html


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I don't know. I'm starting to think upgrading from a 420mm to another 420 may not be much of an upgrade. But then again, I kind of feel like these high RPM fans are wasted on the XSPC EX rad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> or an aquacomputer tower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, save your money. Going from a 420 to another would not make that much difference mate.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21254/ex-wat-272/Aquacomputer_Airplex_GIGANT_1680_External_Radiator_-_Aluminum_Fins_33301.html


and going to a ut60 to use high rpm fans would be a waste.


----------



## mus1mus

Unless its a GTX with 20 FPI. I haven't tested my 480s yet but boy, 1300 RPM cannot push air to the other side. You'd have to do a push-pull or rev em fans faster.


----------



## MiiX

This might be the wrong place to ask, but my question didnt seem worth of its own thread.

Whats the easiest way to polish the inside of a EK X-RES (D5 top)? I got a kit second hand, but its hand sanded on the inside, but i'd like to have it clear.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> and going to a ut60 to use high rpm fans would be a waste.


I don't know. It looks like its one of the better performing radiators at high RPM's, and one of the only ones from this list that is actually available in a 420mm size.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> This might be the wrong place to ask, but my question didnt seem worth of its own thread.
> 
> Whats the easiest way to polish the inside of a EK X-RES (D5 top)? I got a kit second hand, but its hand sanded on the inside, but i'd like to have it clear.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks

Everything you need to know about sanding EK acrylic/plexi. This is a pretty all out method that takes a while to complete, but if you aren't worried about having perfect glass like clarity, I found that just a quick sanding at 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit, and then a polish gets some pretty great results. If you hold the block up in the light though and turn it in your hand you can see some very small micro scratches but on first look it appears perfectly clear.



This started out as frosted plexi block, btw.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I don't know. It looks like its one of the better performing radiators at high RPM's, and one of the only ones from this list that is actually available in a 420mm size.


Looks like I made the right choice in my 360 rads then w/ the Magicool Pro slims especially for the cost


----------



## Ithanul

Hmmm, got a little question to ask. Anybody else order stuff from Aquatuning.de side, and it take a good while to get to the States?

Starting to think the fans I bought got lost in UPS limbo. Since I have order stuff from other countries before, but never took this long to show up.


----------



## electro2u

I dont know for sure but i order from aquatuning.us not .de
and the shipping super fast. Did you get a tracking number at all? If not... they might have just been out of stock. Trying to communicate with them in english can be slightly frustrating and or pointless though.


----------



## Rahldrac

I have always communicated with them in English and never had any problems. Might help that English is not my native language either.


----------



## Ceadderman

I wish to report on a positive experience that I am having with PPCs.

I recently got a $300 order from them that included Monsoon economy fittings. I got the order short 2 fittings which they promptly shipped to me without question. At my request they shipped me two shiny Black Nickel replacements over the shiny Red fittings I had ordered. Well I got them and fitted them to my Red Supreme HF and noticed that one of the collars was short by a couple mm. It would work as it's mechanically sound but for this build it would stick out like a sore thumb since this system is going to a LAN event. I contacted them with a pic showing both new fittings on my CPU block and they not only contacted Monsoon but we're given the green light to ship a replacement at no cost to me and let me keep the defective unit.

Couldn't be happier with their service IMHO and with the back and forth here, I thought I would post something positive in their regard.

They are even in contact with Monsoon regarding a special request for my build. So my suggestion is that if you order from them and you have an issue, to submit it in a timely fashion(within 3 days) and send them pics if you can. That's what I do and it usually nets positive results.























~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I dont know for sure but i order from aquatuning.us not .de
> and the shipping super fast. Did you get a tracking number at all? If not... they might have just been out of stock. Trying to communicate with them in english can be slightly frustrating and or pointless though.


There was tracking until they pass the package off to USPS. I can try emailing them though I probably butcher the german grammer really bad.







Still trying to get a hang of that language.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @TCO: mlp season started. Pleases my little girl and the brony in me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gonna get a tshirt w/ the mustsng logo with brony
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Back to work so haven't found time for a new anime.


be careful before ferrari sends you a cease and desist letter for your avatar


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @TCO: mlp season started. Pleases my little girl and the brony in me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gonna get a tshirt w/ the mustsng logo with brony
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . *Back to work so haven't found time for a new anime.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You Will find time Wermad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Well looks like PDXLan in July is sold out so I gotta plan for November. 3 months beforehand. Who knew.









Oh well, gives me more time to get this build together.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New project for the summer....


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New project for the summer....


My gf loves these cases, best make sure she doesn't see this thread!


----------



## LandonAaron

Where is a good place to buy Gentle Typhoon fans. I have always heard good things about them, but have never been able to a place to buy them. Newegg doesn't carry them, and Performance PC's carries Scythe but not the GT models. Only place I have ever seen them is Amazon for like $20 a piece, and I thought they were suppose to be a more economical fan. Maybe I am just confused about the standard pricing for them.

I am looking for a good economical fan with decent acoustics in the 1300 RPM range. 140mm size. I need 9 to start with, and possible 18 total later on. So really kind of hoping for something in the 5-10 dollar price range with 10 being absolute max.

Are Yate Loons any good? The price is killer. $4!!!!. Please say they are good, please say they are good. Lol


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Where is a good place to buy Gentle Typhoon fans. I have always heard good things about them, but have never been able to a place to buy them. Newegg doesn't carry them, and Performance PC's carries Scythe but not the GT models. Only place I have ever seen them is Amazon for like $20 a piece, and I thought they were suppose to be a more economical fan. Maybe I am just confused about the standard pricing for them.
> 
> I am looking for a good economical fan with decent acoustics in the 1300 RPM range. 140mm size. I need 9 to start with, and possible 18 total later on. So really kind of hoping for something in the 5-10 dollar price range with 10 being absolute max.
> 
> Are Yate Loons any good? The price is killer. $4!!!!. Please say they are good, please say they are good. Lol


GTs are going to run you 20-25 a piece, no way around it without buying used. Yate Loon has multiple quality tiers, they have some real garbage, but there are some diamonds in the rough, but expect to pay more than $10 each for good ones. A good alternative to GTs are the Vardar from EK...they say imitation is the strongest form of flattery, and EK pulled it off pretty well. Again, not cheap though.

I am sorry that I dont have a good <$10 fan to suggest. If they are out there, I have not run into them.


----------



## Ithanul

I remember seeing some GTs somewhere for 15-18 bucks, but can't remember which online store I saw them at.

Ah! Found it, it was Sidewinder who have them up for sell at the moment. They have the AP-13, AP-14, and AP-15 for around 16 bucks currently. Oops, just notice, they are out of stock...

But yeah, most of the good fans are not cheap. Reason I love three GT AP-15s I have, wished I know they would be hard to find. Otherwise I would of bought more considering they are built like tanks (Mine are over seven years old now). Though eLoops are a nice fan too, but no where near cheap.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *New project for the summer....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The UK has a summer? . . . .









Learn something new every day . . . .

Better build fast, it can't last very long,

Seriously though, looking forward to see what you come up with.

Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Where is a good place to buy Gentle Typhoon fans. I have always heard good things about them, but have never been able to a place to buy them. Newegg doesn't carry them, and Performance PC's carries Scythe but not the GT models. Only place I have ever seen them is Amazon for like $20 a piece, and I thought they were suppose to be a more economical fan. Maybe I am just confused about the standard pricing for them.
> 
> I am looking for a good economical fan with decent acoustics in the 1300 RPM range. 140mm size. I need 9 to start with, and possible 18 total later on. So really kind of hoping for something in the 5-10 dollar price range with 10 being absolute max.
> 
> Are Yate Loons any good? The price is killer. $4!!!!. Please say they are good, please say they are good. Lol
> 
> 
> 
> GTs are going to run you 20-25 a piece, no way around it without buying used. Yate Loon has multiple quality tiers, they have some real garbage, but there are some diamonds in the rough, but expect to pay more than $10 each for good ones. A good alternative to GTs are the Vardar from EK...they say imitation is the strongest form of flattery, and EK pulled it off pretty well. Again, not cheap though.
> 
> I am sorry that I dont have a good <$10 fan to suggest. If they are out there, I have not run into them.
Click to expand...

Yate Loons are fantastic across the entire spectrum imho. I've run the sleeved ones with no issues on my Radiators. I get mine from PPCs, for that $4 price and they work well. So it's a great ~$10 fan. Although I am gonna go with the Vardars for this mod. I'm gonna have three 360s, so mating Yate Loons to them is kind of pointless with the baby on the way. I don't want my GF freaking out about how my system keeps my son awake or how it wakes her up when they ramp up to address a heat issue. 3 Yate Loons can get loud on my high FPI Radiator. 9 of them would sound like they're going for launch.









I posted earlier about PPCs, right?









Well I walked in to see a package on the Coffee Table @ my brother's. I also talked to them about gloves that were I thought, supposed to be included with my Pro bending kit. Well they contacted Monsoon about that and then notified me that they don't come with the kit. Anyhoo... I opened the package and what do I find? A pair of heat resistant gloves direct from Monsoon. That right there is the shizzle my nizzles.









Hey B, is that a optical drive over the side I/O panel? Or can one go there?







Looks like a really nice case.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

nvm.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Where is a good place to buy Gentle Typhoon fans. I have always heard good things about them, but have never been able to a place to buy them. Newegg doesn't carry them, and Performance PC's carries Scythe but not the GT models. Only place I have ever seen them is Amazon for like $20 a piece, and I thought they were suppose to be a more economical fan. Maybe I am just confused about the standard pricing for them.
> 
> I am looking for a good economical fan with decent acoustics in the 1300 RPM range. 140mm size. I need 9 to start with, and possible 18 total later on. So really kind of hoping for something in the 5-10 dollar price range with 10 being absolute max.
> 
> Are Yate Loons any good? The price is killer. $4!!!!. Please say they are good, please say they are good. Lol


http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html

$19.95 a piece for AP-15's


----------



## Stateless

Hey everyone, I need some suggestions/advice:

I currently have 3 360 RADS cooling my system. My pathway is Water goes from the Res/Pum to my 1st Rad, then to the 2nd Rad, then to the 3rd Rad. Water then goes to my CPU which is running a 3930k at 4.8. Water then goes from the CPU into my 1st Titan X Waterblock which is running in Parallel with a second Titan X then the water goes back to the pump res and starts over. I am thinking of moving to 3 480's to get more cooling.

With that change, I am thinking of changing the path of the Water Flow to this : Res/Pump>1st 480>2nd 480>CPU>3rd 480>GPU's X2 then back to the Res/Pump. Would my cooling still be efficient for the CPU and GPU's? I am thinking of doing this to improve my GPU cooling since under my old set up the water is heating up by the CPU then it goes into the GPU's. What are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Hey everyone, I need some suggestions/advice:
> 
> I currently have 3 360 RADS cooling my system. My pathway is Water goes from the Res/Pum to my 1st Rad, then to the 2nd Rad, then to the 3rd Rad. Water then goes to my CPU which is running a 3930k at 4.8. Water then goes from the CPU into my 1st Titan X Waterblock which is running in Parallel with a second Titan X then the water goes back to the pump res and starts over. I am thinking of moving to 3 480's to get more cooling.
> 
> With that change, I am thinking of changing the path of the Water Flow to this : Res/Pump>1st 480>2nd 480>CPU>3rd 480>GPU's X2 then back to the Res/Pump. Would my cooling still be efficient for the CPU and GPU's? I am thinking of doing this to improve my GPU cooling since under my old set up the water is heating up by the CPU then it goes into the GPU's. What are your thoughts?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice.


What are you cooling? An Archlight reactor?









I keed I keed.









Loop order doesn't matter so long as your Reservoir feeds your pump. Whichever way is cleanest for you to run it, then by all means that's how you should run it.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Question I have 2 8gb hyper x fury ram out they able to be watercoed. Obviously for looks alone? If so can someone put me in the direction


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Question I have 2 8gb hyper x fury ram out they able to be watercoed. Obviously for looks alone? If so can someone put me in the direction


For sure. Check out EK's options: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/ram-blocks.html

They'll fit just about any RAM. You just have to remove the heatsinks.


----------



## CapnC00K

Need suggestions on best setup with a Swiftech MCP 35X2 pump going from a EK Res X3 to a drain with a valve at the back of my Corsair 800D case. I had it all planned out until my brother, who trolls on these threads as Overclck and yes ego bruised







, pointed out that I had my pump setup backwards. My line from my Res X3 was going into the outlet and my line to my soon to be video card and drain valve was in the inlet of the pump, i had them reversed/switched. Now I need to reroute or mount the pump elsewhere, keep in mind I have all ready drilled a hole on the back of my Corsair 800D for the valve drain. Any thoughts and suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks!


----------



## Stateless

If I use one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Splitter-Power-Eight/dp/B00OD7MO6E

And run the lead to the mother board, what is the best fan that will do very good cooling but also let me adjust the fan speed using the above adapter and changing the speed in the BIOS? Do these adapters work well so if I want to change the speed of all the fans plugged into it, it can provide the power to all the fans and let me adjust the speed? I am leaning towards GT's, but unsure what speed GT's I should get, so any help and that they work with this adapter would be grateful.

Thanks!


----------



## InsideJob

It's time for me to return to this thread as I finally have a stable income again and have obtained the first part to my watercooling project











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New project for the summer....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This should get interesting another inwin case


----------



## psycho84

Enough Coolingpower


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Enough Coolingpower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


sick


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnC00K*
> 
> Need suggestions on best setup with a Swiftech MCP 35X2 pump going from a EK Res X3 to a drain with a valve at the back of my Corsair 800D case. I had it all planned out until my brother, who trolls on these threads as Overclck and yes ego bruised
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , pointed out that I had my pump setup backwards. My line from my Res X3 was going into the outlet and my line to my soon to be video card and drain valve was in the inlet of the pump, i had them reversed/switched. Now I need to reroute or mount the pump elsewhere, keep in mind I have all ready drilled a hole on the back of my Corsair 800D for the valve drain. Any thoughts and suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The Swiftech dual top is reversed by most comparison tops, so about your only hope is to go with a different top.

The only one I know of which has both port locations facing forward like the Swiftech, and has the inlet on the right, is the Heatkiller Watercool dual acrylic top:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkiller-dual-ddc-case-lt-acryl.html



If you dremel the screw holes that the heatsink attaches to the stock plastic housings with, by about a mm or so, you can keep all that part of your assembly exactly the same.





Darlene


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Enough Coolingpower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Stick an automotive radiator fan on there. It should provide better cooling.


----------



## v1ral

Alright guys I have been out of the loop for a bit and I have a few questions.
1. What is the consensus on the Alphacool GPX water blocks? I heard they are quite restrictive but cool quite well after changing TIM*I may be wrong*, I ask cause the price is pretty good.
2. Proposed loop on a budget:
H220x with an MCR320xp on Helix pwm fans all around, with said GPU block and possibly SLI GTX 970 G1 Gaming.
Will the H220x alone be able to push water enough for the entire loop?


----------



## emsj86

I know it's been asked before but maybe someone new has come about. The question is petg tubing related. Is there any fittings out or coming out that our like the crystal links but can be used with primochill petg tubing


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Alright guys I have been out of the loop for a bit and I have a few questions.
> 1. What is the consensus on the Alphacool GPX water blocks? I heard they are quite restrictive but cool quite well after changing TIM*I may be wrong*, I ask cause the price is pretty good.
> 2. Proposed loop on a budget:
> H220x with an MCR320xp on Helix pwm fans all around, with said GPU block and possibly SLI GTX 970 G1 Gaming.
> Will the H220x alone be able to push water enough for the entire loop?


It can push water for the whole loop. Obviously you need another rad and I'm sure you know that allready. But I've seen several sli duel rad h220x and even a 240 glacer. Plus you always have the option of upgrading the pump to the mcp50x which is almost on par with the mcp35x pumps. Just alittle louder from what I read. My mcp50c that I had was silent under 70% pwm signal


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I know it's been asked before but maybe someone new has come about. The question is petg tubing related. Is there any fittings out or coming out that our like the crystal links but can be used with primochill petg tubing


Rocket Science has imperial sized C47 style fittings. They are listed on the site in mm, but they are actually 1/2". It's the only size they have and they are only available in matte black or nickle finish


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Rocket Science has imperial sized C47 style fittings. They are listed on the site in mm, but they are actually 1/2". It's the only size they have and they are only available in matte black or nickle finish


The finish on the nickel for these fittings is incredible. The 1/2" translates to 12.7mm. They also have double o-rings.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Enough Coolingpower


Is that like $5000 worth of noctua's?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Rocket Science has imperial sized C47 style fittings. They are listed on the site in mm, but they are actually 1/2". It's the only size they have and they are only available in matte black or nickle finish


I love my Rocket Sciences! They feel very high quality, and the owner is super nice. When I bought my fittings he reached out to me and asked if he could give me pointers, and if I was doing a build log. Highly reccomend.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I know it's been asked before but maybe someone new has come about. The question is petg tubing related. Is there any fittings out or coming out that our like the crystal links but can be used with primochill petg tubing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Rocket Science has imperial sized C47 style fittings. They are listed on the site in mm, but they are actually 1/2". It's the only size they have and they are only available in matte black or nickle finish


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The finish on the nickel for these fittings is incredible. The 1/2" translates to 12.7mm. They also have double o-rings.


Don't forget to try the discount code for free shipping








It should still work


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> I love my Rocket Sciences! They feel very high quality, and the owner is super nice. When I bought my fittings he reached out to me and asked if he could give me pointers, and if I was doing a build log. Highly reccomend.


I'm pretty sure the owner is a very active member of OCN. _I think..._ If it's who I'm thinking of anyway. But I don't want to mention any names and be wrong or step on anyone's toes.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Don't forget to try the discount code for free shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should still work


The last person that I knew that tried it said it expired. Though, this is secondhand information.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> *I'm pretty sure the owner is a very active member of OCN*. _I think..._ If it's who I'm thinking of anyway. But I don't want to mention any names and be wrong or step on anyone's toes.


He is.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Swiftech dual top is reversed by most comparison tops, so about your only hope is to go with a different top.
> 
> The only one I know of which has both port locations facing forward like the Swiftech, and has the inlet on the right, is the Heatkiller Watercool dual acrylic top:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkiller-dual-ddc-case-lt-acryl.html
> 
> 
> 
> If you dremel the screw holes that the heatsink attaches to the stock plastic housings with, by about a mm or so, you can keep all that part of your assembly exactly the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Darlene,

He won't have any flow issues with having the drain tapped off from the inlet like depicted in his photo? I don't think so, but it's always good to ask the experts.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the owner is a very active member of OCN. _I think..._ If it's who I'm thinking of anyway. But I don't want to mention any names and be wrong or step on anyone's toes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The last person that I knew that tried it said it expired. Though, this is secondhand information.
> He is.


I shall have names, or I shall have your heads


----------



## LandonAaron

Why hasn't anyone made a good software based fan controller? I just had to unplug and replug my Phanteks fan hub 5 times, and re-run Asus's "Fan Optimizaiton" before it finally recognized it as a PWM controllable device. So frustrating depending on this motherboard's finicky fan controls, but there is really nothing out there to replace the motherboards PWM control with. Unless I spend like $150 on a Aquero and trade by DVD drive for a fan controller.

NZXT had a good idea but executed terribly with the Grid+. Corsiar seems to really be onto something, but they won't sell it as a standalone solution.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Why hasn't anyone made a good software based fan controller? I just had to unplug and replug my Phanteks fan hub 5 times, and re-run Asus's "Fan Optimizaiton" before it finally recognized it as a PWM controllable device. So frustrating depending on this motherboard's finicky fan controls, but there is really nothing out there to replace the motherboards PWM control with. Unless I spend like $150 on a Aquero and trade by DVD drive for a fan controller.
> 
> NZXT had a good idea but executed terribly with the Grid+. Corsiar seems to really be onto something, but they won't sell it as a standalone solution.


Aquaero makes an LT version that isn't a bay device, is much more affordable and is fully software controllable. But you will want to put the heatsink on it.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It can push water for the whole loop. Obviously you need another rad and I'm sure you know that allready. But I've seen several sli duel rad h220x and even a 240 glacer. Plus you always have the option of upgrading the pump to the mcp50x which is almost on par with the mcp35x pumps. Just alittle louder from what I read. My mcp50c that I had was silent under 70% pwm signal


I have an MCP50x and it is silent at about 40% PWM. The max RPM on mine about 4000 RPM, but I have an XSPC X20 pump in series with it. Anyway at 40% it runs at about 2800RPM. Anything over 70% an it runs at its full 4000 RPM. At 0% it runs at 2000 RPM. But like I said anything under 2800RPM /40% is silent.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Alright guys I have been out of the loop for a bit and I have a few questions.
> 1. What is the consensus on the Alphacool GPX water blocks? I heard they are quite restrictive but cool quite well after changing TIM*I may be wrong*, I ask cause the price is pretty good.
> 2. Proposed loop on a budget:
> H220x with an MCR320xp on Helix pwm fans all around, with said GPU block and possibly SLI GTX 970 G1 Gaming.
> Will the H220x alone be able to push water enough for the entire loop?


don't go with the ocool block mate:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/07/gtx-980-water-block-round-up/

it is absurdly restrictive and while cool well the gpu core it does not cool well the vrm area.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Enough Coolingpower


Nice. I am thinking about getting one of those (just 1 lol) or one of the Phobya Extreme's of the same size. They basically cost the same. Does the MO-RA 3 have a fill port? or just the two in out ports? I need a fill port because I plan on mounting it a little higher than my reservoir, and would need to be able to top it off.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Why hasn't anyone made a good software based fan controller? I just had to unplug and replug my Phanteks fan hub 5 times, and re-run Asus's "Fan Optimizaiton" before it finally recognized it as a PWM controllable device. So frustrating depending on this motherboard's finicky fan controls, but there is really nothing out there to replace the motherboards PWM control with. Unless I spend like $150 on a Aquero and trade by DVD drive for a fan controller.
> 
> NZXT had a good idea but executed terribly with the Grid+. Corsiar seems to really be onto something, but they won't sell it as a standalone solution.


Have you tried playing with SpeedFan? I'm using that over the included Fan Xpert. Seems to work great, the setup is a pain though...


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Have you tried playing with SpeedFan? I'm using that over the included Fan Xpert. Seems to work great, the setup is a pain though...


I have tried SpeedFan several times over the years. I can never get it to work for me.


----------



## emsj86

So the rocket science fittings will work for petg tubing? Has anyone tried it might have to order one to see. Looks like they will. Wish they had 90 adapters. Cause the whole point was I was hoping to do straight lines no bends with the petg tubing I have allready


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have tried SpeedFan several times over the years. I can never get it to work for me.


If you ever want to try it again. I followed this guide and it worked for me on my Asus.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So the rocket science fittings will work for petg tubing? Has anyone tried it might have to order one to see. Looks like they will. Wish they had 90 adapters. Cause the whole point was I was hoping to do straight lines no bends with the petg tubing I have allready


Just get some BP female to female threaded angled adapters and use the Rocket Science fittings on those


----------



## emsj86

Thanks. Duh I'm so dumb sometimes


----------



## Wolfsbora

The nickel finish of the Rocket Science fittings matches the Bitspower perfectly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Why hasn't anyone made a good software based fan controller? I just had to unplug and replug my Phanteks fan hub 5 times, and re-run Asus's "Fan Optimizaiton" before it finally recognized it as a PWM controllable device. So frustrating depending on this motherboard's finicky fan controls, but there is really nothing out there to replace the motherboards PWM control with. Unless I spend like $150 on a Aquero and trade by DVD drive for a fan controller.
> 
> NZXT had a good idea but executed terribly with the Grid+. Corsiar seems to really be onto something, but they won't sell it as a standalone solution.
> 
> 
> 
> Aquaero makes an LT version that isn't a bay device, is much more affordable and is fully software controllable. But you will want to put the heatsink on it.
Click to expand...

Which one is this?

~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which one is this?
> 
> ~Ceadder


http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2673

The Aq 5 LT is pretty great but gets hot so cooling accessories are highly recommended (heatsink should cover it) and only has 1 pwm channel available. Wish they would make a 6 LT with the improved vrms and full 4 channel pwm supportm


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2673
> 
> The Aq 5 LT is pretty great but gets hot so cooling accessories are highly recommended (heatsink should cover it) and only has 1 pwm channel available. Wish they would make a 6 LT with the improved vrms and full 4 channel pwm supportm


That looks like exactly what I have been looking for. Does it only work with its own temps sensors. You can't program it to respond to CPU temps reported by the BIOS or HWinfo?


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Nice. I am thinking about getting one of those (just 1 lol) or one of the Phobya Extreme's of the same size. They basically cost the same. Does the MO-RA 3 have a fill port? or just the two in out ports? I need a fill port because I plan on mounting it a little higher than my reservoir, and would need to be able to top it off.


The MoRa have 3 Ports on one lower and one upper Conner... Front, Back and Side Ports...


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> That looks like exactly what I have been looking for. Does it only work with its own temps sensors. You can't program it to respond to CPU temps reported by the BIOS or HWinfo?


You can attach software sensors, like HWinfo.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> The MoRa have 3 Ports on one lower and one upper Conner... Front, Back and Side Ports...


Have you done anything at all to get those MO-RA3's to stand on top of each other? I actually wish I had a LD Cooling PC-V4/some test bench and I could do the same as you, are those the 360 or 420 versions? I have two 420 LT's.









Could you also take a picture of your rig with those radiators connected to each other?


----------



## Detoxification

EK Supremacy EVO
Primochill Rigid Revolver Fittings
Bitspower Quick Disconnect
13mm PETG Tubing
Swiftech 240mm Rad
Mayhems Pastel UV Lime Yellow

Day 1






Day 3






Day 4





/// Follow me on your favorite Social Media \\\
Facebook = https://www.facebook.com/HardwareDomain
Twitter = https://twitter.com/Hardware_Domain
Instagram = https://instagram.com/hardware_domain/


----------



## wermad

Finished recent mod:


----------



## Kritikill

With all those fans I hope the rig hovers on the desk!


----------



## wermad

32 fans all together, but I've had more in the past







(51 i think was the most). And I know some rigs with a lot more! Thing is heavier now, took 3L of distilled, and I'm sure its close to 100lbs.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 32 fans all together, but I've had more in the past
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (51 i think was the most). And I know some rigs with a lot more! Thing is heavier now, took 3L of distilled, and I'm sure its close to 100lbs.


Holy cow wermad, are you sure 1600w is enough.


----------



## Kritikill

I think the the 1600 is just for the fans. lol

What kind of temps are you seeing? (Stats,cpu, chipset, gpu)


----------



## wermad

295x2 in crossfire suck a lot of wattage. stock alone ~1200w at the wall. And hawaii is known to get more drunk when you light the fuse. Was hoping for the fanboy competition to unleash them but its not gonna happen this year







. I may do some overclocking just to explore their capabilities. fans, they use a bit of wattage, as I typically leave them @ 5v.


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't feel bad werm. I'm gonna miss July PDXLan because they're sold out 3 months early. At least it gives me time to perfect this build, catch the thread up and my son to be there at November's
Event.









~Ceadder


----------



## jagdtigger

Greetings







.

I just finished my first rigid tubing(unfortunately its not the prettiest one







). It seems i need some 90° adapters because my case is a little bit small for this:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150228_173523.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150228_173555.jpg

I need to replace the tubing later... And i have a question for the experienced members. Adding a second DDC to my loop will improve the temperature or its not worth it? (LoopDC+RES->MO-RA3 360 LC->cuplex kryos PRO->VID-AR290X->DDC+RES )


----------



## erso44

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished recent mod:






super mega giant satic pressure. omg. someone goes crazy here hahahaha


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Greetings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I just finished my first rigid tubing(unfortunately its not the prettiest one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). It seems i need some 90° adapters because my case is a little bit small for this:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150228_173523.jpg
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150228_173555.jpg
> 
> I need to replace the tubing later... And i have a question for the experienced members. Adding a second DDC to my loop will improve the temperature or its not worth it? (LoopDC+RES->MO-RA3 360 LC->cuplex kryos PRO->VID-AR290X->DDC+RES )


Is that hard tubing connecting your external radiator? Thats a disater waiting to happen if you ask me.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Is that hard tubing connecting your external radiator? Thats a disater waiting to happen if you ask me.


Not really, i made sure there is no strain on the tubing...


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Not really, i made sure there is no strain on the tuging...


Thats all fine and well until the radiator somehow gets a nudge and the tubing cracks. I would just use soft tubing externally, hard tubing seems unnessarely risky.


----------



## jagdtigger

Well yeah, that would be a bad thing







, fortunately its behind my desk so the chance of a nudge is pretty slim:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150411_135602.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150411_141004.jpg


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Well yeah, that would be a bad thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , fortunately its behind my desk so the chance of a nudge is pretty slim:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150411_135602.jpg
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150411_141004.jpg


Even so I still agree with @Gilles3000. Really doesn't provide any added aesthetics, only danger.


----------



## Ithanul

I really don't see what the fuss is about. When I was bending my rigid tubing and installing I was pretty dang abusive to it.







Even for kicks I threw a piece at the ground to see if the acrylic would break, nope, still solid. Then again I compared the acrylic tube I got from TAPSPlastic that I installed to the Primochill I have, and the TAPSPlastic stuff got a little bit thicker wall.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I really don't see what the fuss is about. When I was bending my rigid tubing and installing I was pretty dang abusive to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even for kicks I threw a piece at the ground to see if the acrylic would break, nope, still solid. Then again I compared the acrylic tube I got from TAPSPlastic that I installed to the Primochill I have, and the TAPSPlastic stuff got a little bit thicker wall.


It's not about it breaking; it's more about it popping out of it's socket/compressed fitting, and that could be easily achieved by dropping something on the external RAD. Seems pointless to me for someone to use rigid tubing on anything external.


----------



## jagdtigger

Im well aware that its risky, but its better considering that the radiator is located at a safe place... I dont need a complete disaster because of the plasticizer from the tubing







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> be careful before ferrari sends you a cease and desist letter for your avatar


Lol, I know right! Theyll sue and prevent me from buying an exclusive future model (like I could afford one







)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You Will find time Wermad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I'm keeping an eye out for anything that comes up as "hot" in the anime sites. I tried a couple but couldn't really continue with them. As I typically recommend, you have to wade through a lot of so-so stuff in anime to find a gem.

For now, I'm watching some BTAS and getting rekindled w/ my great friends Kevin and Mark












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't feel bad werm. I'm gonna miss July PDXLan because they're sold out 3 months early. At least it gives me time to perfect this build, catch the thread up and my son to be there at November's
> Event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I need to attend one of these shows but I doubt San Diego has such events. Up north is where its at but I can't make the trip up there anytime soon. I hope the FanBoyChallenge gets green lighted soon. I posted in the Benchmark section asking what happened and the only reasonable explanation is that maybe they're waiting for amd's PI release.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> 
> super mega giant satic pressure. omg. someone goes crazy here hahahaha


Lol, I keep them @ 5v for normal use and nudge them to ~7v when I'm gaming (headphones). When I bench (stability), they are set to the max


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Greetings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I just finished my first rigid tubing(unfortunately its not the prettiest one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). It seems i need some 90° adapters because my case is a little bit small for this:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150228_173523.jpg
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150228_173555.jpg
> 
> I need to replace the tubing later... And i have a question for the experienced members. Adding a second DDC to my loop will improve the temperature or its not worth it? (LoopDC+RES->MO-RA3 360 LC->cuplex kryos PRO->VID-AR290X->DDC+RES )


THe picture quality isn't fine enough to really tell, but it appears there are alot of bubbles, kinks, and heat stress marks in your tubing. Is this correct?
If it is that tubing will probably crack/fracture sometime and you shouldn't run it that way too long before you fix.

Also don't take this the wrong way, but the whole point of acrylic/hard tubing is to make things look alot better. Unfortunately with the way you bent the tubing regular soft tubing would have looked alot better.


----------



## jagdtigger

I can start working on it in the second half of the next month, thats why i asked if i put in a second pump will it help in the cooling or its not worth the effort... (right now my flow rate is 156l/h) Right now i need this PC for my studies.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, I know right! Theyll sue and prevent me from buying an exclusive future model (like I could afford one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm keeping an eye out for anything that comes up as "hot" in the anime sites. I tried a couple but couldn't really continue with them. As I typically recommend, you have to wade through a lot of so-so stuff in anime to find a gem.


So true. Though, right now I am enjoying re watching Kill La Kill and Gurren Lagann.

Wish they bring the anime adaptation of Tokyo Ghoul to the States. Kind of enjoyed reading that manga, and very interested in seeing the anime.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> So true. Though, right now I am enjoying re watching Kill La Kill and Gurren Lagann.
> 
> Wish they bring the anime adaptation of Tokyo Ghoul to the States. Kind of enjoyed reading that manga, and very interested in seeing the anime.


Me and my gf loved kill la kill, we loved the humor and plot twists etc, it was great!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still Desert Punk and Samurai Champloo have to be a couple of my personal favorites


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Greetings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I just finished my first rigid tubing(unfortunately its not the prettiest one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). It seems i need some 90° adapters because my case is a little bit small for this:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150228_173523.jpg
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150228_173555.jpg
> 
> I need to replace the tubing later... And i have a question for the experienced members. Adding a second DDC to my loop will improve the temperature or its not worth it? (LoopDC+RES->MO-RA3 360 LC->cuplex kryos PRO->VID-AR290X->DDC+RES )


Unfortunately i have to agree with most everyone else. That whole build looks like a disaster waiting to happen. The acrylic tubes look cooked and the rigid to the external is probably not a good idea. Id suggest some quick connect no leak fittings with some soft tube. Plasticiser shouldnt be a big issue. Besides that, kudos on the build.


----------



## USMC Modder

Got my loop half way done. First time working with hard tubing. You can see more in my build log. Link in signature.


----------



## snef

some pics of Fan et Rad assembled


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't feel bad werm. I'm gonna miss July PDXLan because they're sold out 3 months early. At least it gives me time to perfect this build, catch the thread up and my son to be there at November's
> Event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What, no sparkles snef?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to attend one of these shows but I doubt San Diego has such events. Up north is where its at but I can't make the trip up there anytime soon. I hope the FanBoyChallenge gets green lighted soon. I posted in the Benchmark section asking what happened and the only reasonable explanation is that maybe they're waiting for amd's PI release.
Click to expand...

Actually they DO have one in San Diego. But it's this month and like July's event it too is sold out. Always next year though.









~Ceadder


----------



## snef




----------



## DarthBaggins

Love the green


----------



## USMC Modder

Looking sexy @snef


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of Fan et Rad assembled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Inspired by Midas?


----------



## USMC Modder

Got my first hard line loop done. Any thoughts would be great.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking wonderful








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Got my first hard line loop done. Any thoughts would be great.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like you did a great job for first hard loop. Fill it up and get it running then snap us some more pictures


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Unfortunately i have to agree with most everyone else. That whole build looks like a disaster waiting to happen. The acrylic tubes look cooked and the rigid to the external is probably not a good idea. Id suggest some quick connect no leak fittings with some soft tube. Plasticiser shouldnt be a big issue. Besides that, kudos on the build.


Well its not surprising, its a crappy and hasty work because i needed the PC badly. It has to stay in one piece for 4 weeks, right now i have more important things to do. And i already have QD's on the outside:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/acrylic_tubing/20150228_173555-QD.png


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ooooo, me likes the green. What green is that might I ask? Very nice sleeving too.


----------



## emsj86

New windows. Potato picture. .


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> New windows. Potato picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> .


Nice job on the windows







.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ooooo, me likes the green. What green is that might I ask? Very nice sleeving too.


Thanks,

Power supply cables are neon green paracord from ensourced

Pump are from MDPC


----------



## Ceadderman

Coming along slowly. But that's what happens when you don't have a CNC mill on hand to clearance 70mm side to side and square up 64mm in the block opening of your FC heatsinks.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Well I did t make the window. But I drilled measured and bolted it. Looks a lot better in person. As i need to get my pc in the right ignoring and angle to take a better picture. Rather than laying under my table taking a shot


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Got my first hard line loop done. Any thoughts would be great.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean mate. well done.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Got my first hard line loop done. Any thoughts would be great.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This build makes me think of an old 8 bit game level.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nice and clean mate. well done.


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> This build makes me think of an old 8 bit game level.


I think that's a good thing.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coming along slowly. But that's what happens when you don't have a CNC mill on hand to clearance 70mm side to side and square up 64mm in the block opening of your FC heatsinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Looking good! It is always the slow work that looks the best in my experience (that is why I use so long time building my computers)







At least I like to believe it is!









Question, I ordered one EK-XTX 480 and one EK-PE 480 last night, should I add another EK-PE 480 just because I have the space for it or leave it be? The system will consist of: EK-Supremacy Full Nickel (cooling my 4930K @ 4,7+ Ghz, mosfet and chipset on the Rampage IV Black Edition), with EK-Coolstream XTC 420, EK-Coolstream XTX 480 and EK-Coolstream PE-480, the XTX 480 will have SP120 Quiet Edition, the XTC 420 will have either push/pull or pull with some 900 rpm Cooltek-fans, the PE 480 in the bottom will have SP 120 HP. Thinking of adding another PE 480 in the bottom with SP 120s and have my two D5 pumps in between them.







Came to think about that I use a lot of EK-parts for this build ....


----------



## KoNLaR

Brand new setup and some better pictures then I posted earlier, specs can be found here







https://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW


----------



## PedroC1999

Im looking at selling two HD 7950 blocks, inbox me if you're interested


----------



## CapnC00K

Darlene,

Great idea and solution which will allow
me to keep runs and current setup as is.
Thank you very much!


----------



## CapnC00K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Swiftech dual top is reversed by most comparison tops, so about your only hope is to go with a different top.
> 
> The only one I know of which has both port locations facing forward like the Swiftech, and has the inlet on the right, is the Heatkiller Watercool dual acrylic top:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkiller-dual-ddc-case-lt-acryl.html
> 
> 
> 
> If you dremel the screw holes that the heatsink attaches to the stock plastic housings with, by about a mm or so, you can keep all that part of your assembly exactly the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Darlene,

Great idea and solution which will allow
me to keep runs and current setup as is.
Thank you very much!


----------



## LandonAaron

What soft tubing brand has the best bend radius?


----------



## Ithanul

Ok, since I am not getting an answer over in the Stacker thread. Maybe some of ya over here can give me a idea what radiators I could put into my 915F Stacker. It will be used as a modded pedestal for my Haf X. Though still debating should I stick with 360 radiator size or mod the 915F to allow 480 radiator size in it. Also this brings me to another question, since my d5 up in a bay res, will the pump be strong enough to push the water all the way through four radiators, CPU block, and two GPU blocks? Considering two big radiators will be far below in a pedestal.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ok, since I am not getting an answer over in the Stacker thread. Maybe some of ya over here can give me a idea what radiators I could put into my 915F Stacker. It will be used as a modded pedestal for my Haf X. Though still debating should I stick with 360 radiator size or mod the 915F to allow 480 radiator size in it. Also this brings me to another question, since my d5 up in a bay res, will the pump be strong enough to push the water all the way through four radiators, CPU block, and two GPU blocks? Considering two big radiators will be far below in a pedestal.


The D5 is pretty strong, I have mine running water through 1x cpu block, 1x vrm block, 1x nb block, 1x 240mm rad and 1x 120mm external rad, it should do fine.


----------



## BradleyW

Would a D5 get through this:

480mm Rad
240mm Rad
240mm Rad
420mm Rad
120mm Rad
CPU Block
GPU block
GPU block

Thank you.


----------



## snef

added some hieroglyphs


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Would a D5 get through this:
> 
> 480mm Rad
> 240mm Rad
> 240mm Rad
> 420mm Rad
> 120mm Rad
> CPU Block
> GPU block
> GPU block
> 
> Thank you.


Thats where you want to upgrade to a dual top. I have
Cpu
GPU
240 monster
360 monster
360 xt45
Aquaero block.
Currently on the "pin it to win it" to get my flow high. Plus its nearly impossible to bleed it since you cant create a high enough flow to force the bubbles out. This is just for my rig however.


----------



## wermad

D5 w/ alphacool top: Monsta 480>mb>cpu >Dual gpu block #1>Dual gpu block #2>Monsta 480>Monsta 480>Monsta 480>bay res. Set to speed #5.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> added some hieroglyphs
> 
> *snip*


now that's cool


----------



## emsj86

. For looks alone. Would a plexi or black sli terminal from ek look better on my build. I'm leaning towards plexi and polishing it as I have the cpu plexi and pump top as well. Also seeing my motherboard Asus z97 pro wifi has only 3 gpu slots but several small pci slots. Would anyone know if I needed a duel or triple terminal bridge for sli? Thanks on advance for the help as always. (Note the sound card red leds will be cut or I soldered and the sticker on the psu is going away as I think it's kinda tacky). r


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> .
> For looks alone. Would a plexi or black sli terminal from ek look better on my build. I'm leaning towards plexi and polishing it as I have the cpu plexi and pump top as well. Also seeing my motherboard Asus z97 pro wifi has only 3 gpu slots but several small pci slots. Would anyone know if I needed a duel or triple terminal bridge for sli? Thanks on advance for the help as always. (Note the sound card red leds will be cut or I soldered and the sticker on the psu is going away as I think it's kinda tacky).
> r


I assume you are talking about adding a second GPU to the loop? You will need a Dual Triple for your Mobo. I have an extra one I am not using, as I initially was going to use the 1st and 3rd slot.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Would a D5 get through this:
> 
> 480mm Rad
> 240mm Rad
> 240mm Rad
> 420mm Rad
> 120mm Rad
> CPU Block
> GPU block
> GPU block
> 
> Thank you.


For a system like that I would have added a second D5 and used them at stage "2", in my experience the D5-pumps easily vibrate a little at stage "5". My upcoming loop will consist of: 2x EK-PE 480, 1x EK-XTC 420, 1x EK-XTX 480, 1x CPU-block, mosfet and chipset blocks, 2x EK-X3 250, 2x EK-CSQ Tops with 2x D5s. Planning on adding two GPUs to the loop later on, or perhaps split the loops into dual.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> . For looks alone. Would a plexi or black sli terminal from ek look better on my build. I'm leaning towards plexi and polishing it as I have the cpu plexi and pump top as well. Also seeing my motherboard Asus z97 pro wifi has only 3 gpu slots but several small pci slots. Would anyone know if I needed a duel or triple terminal bridge for sli? Thanks on advance for the help as always. (Note the sound card red leds will be cut or I soldered and the sticker on the psu is going away as I think it's kinda tacky). r


Forget about the plexi and/or acetal terminals and use Enhance-fittings and acrylic tubing instead (much more appealing than those terminals). I have used both and I take Enhance-fittings and acrylic tubing over the Terminals any day. It is also much easier to go with either parallel or serial.


----------



## BradleyW

Thanks guys. +1.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Would a D5 get through this:
> 
> 480mm Rad
> 240mm Rad
> 240mm Rad
> 420mm Rad
> 120mm Rad
> CPU Block
> GPU block
> GPU block
> 
> Thank you.


It will but I would go with a dual serial d5 loop. That way you will have several advantages: less noise since you can turn the pumps down, higher range of upper flow if you want to run both pumps to 100% to aid during the bleeding phase, redundancy sicne in case one fail the other will take over. so in short if your wallet and case allow another d5 consider the reasons above for it if not go with a single that will get the job done.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Don't forget to try the discount code for free shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should still work


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The last person that I knew that tried it said it expired. Though, this is secondhand information.
> He is.


Got a new *Free Shipping Code* sorted out on *Rocket Science Fittings* for everyone to use and share around








Should be same as before - free worldwide shipping on orders over $50.

fast_fateOCN


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Wondering if I should change my loop slightly.



The tube with the red line around is the one in question, the "style" of the loop will either be the same as this or just one 90 degree bend ... the bend that is marked is not right, so I have to re-do it before I mark up and drill holes for the fill-ports. The tubes will be a little more straight on the final product than it is at this point.


Spoiler: Layout for the rest of the case




+ 420 in the front, 480 in the top and 2x 480s in the bottom


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Is it normal for one GPU to have higher temps than the other in a water cooled SLI configuration?

Both GPUs idle around 28C but when benchmarking the top GPU goes up to 55C and the lower is around 40C. SLI enabled and GPU load is 100% on both.


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> Is it normal for one GPU to have higher temps than the other in a water cooled SLI configuration?
> 
> Both GPUs idle around 28C but when benchmarking the top GPU goes up to 55C and the lower is around 40C. SLI enabled and GPU load is 100% on both.


Since your cards are in serial, yes. You should show off your new build in this thread


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Since your cards are in serial, yes. You should show off your new build in this thread


Thanks Turbz, I will take new pictures and post them here, don't want to spam all threads with the same pics


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> Is it normal for one GPU to have higher temps than the other in a water cooled SLI configuration?
> 
> Both GPUs idle around 28C but when benchmarking the top GPU goes up to 55C and the lower is around 40C. SLI enabled and GPU load is 100% on both.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Since your cards are in serial, yes.


How sure are you about this?

Coolant temperature usually only varies half a degree throughout the whole loop. 15C difference between cards cannot be attributed to whether it's in serial or not.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> Is it normal for one GPU to have higher temps than the other in a water cooled SLI configuration?
> 
> Both GPUs idle around 28C but when benchmarking the top GPU goes up to 55C and the lower is around 40C. SLI enabled and GPU load is 100% on both.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Since your cards are in serial, yes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How sure are you about this?
> 
> Coolant temperature usually only varies half a degree throughout the whole loop. 15C difference between cards cannot be attributed to whether it's in serial or not.
Click to expand...

This.
I suspect the second card has a bad mount.


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> How sure are you about this?
> 
> Coolant temperature usually only varies half a degree throughout the whole loop. 15C difference between cards cannot be attributed to whether it's in serial or not.


Really? I thought it would vary quite significantly between parts.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Really? I thought it would vary quite significantly between parts.


A few degrees maybe, but 15C leads me to believe something other than getting very slightly warmer coolant is causing the temperature discrepancy.

For example, in my old loop I had inline coolant temp probes on the IN and OUT of my Thermochill PA120.4 radiator and difference in coolant temp would only be 1-2C difference depending on fan speed.


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, something is up with that big of a difference. My two Titans in serial only vary at most 1-2*C at full load.

Plus, 55*C on a 980? That higher than my Titans' temps, they tend to cruise around 40-45*C on full load.


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This.
> I suspect the second card has a bad mount.


How would the second card having a bad mount give the first card higher temps?

I might drain the loop, remount the cards and re-do the multi link fittings/tube.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> How would the second card having a bad mount give the first card higher temps?
> 
> I might drain the loop, remount the cards and re-do the multi link fittings/tube.


He meant whichever card has the worst temps is the one with the bad mount.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> How would the second card having a bad mount give the first card higher temps?
> 
> I might drain the loop, remount the cards and re-do the multi link fittings/tube.
> 
> 
> 
> *He meant whichever card has the worst temps is the one with the bad mount.*
Click to expand...

Yes, my mistake. I meant the card with the higher temps is most likely a bad mount. And since it's the first card that is warmer, that kind of reenforces the likelihood of a bad mount.


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yes, my mistake. I meant the card with the higher temps is most likely a bad mount. And since it's the first card that is warmer, that kind of reenforces the likelihood of a bad mount.


I guess you're right,




This is not good


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> I guess you're right,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not good


difference should be around 1 to 3 C tops between the cards. Drain the loop, take the card with higher temp out, dismount the block and check carefully for contact between the block and card. Clean the tim and re-apply. Check if all thermal pads are getting contact.


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> difference should be around 1 to 3 C tops between the cards. Drain the loop, take the card with higher temp out, dismount the block and check carefully for contact between the block and card. Clean the tim and re-apply. Check if all thermal pads are getting contact.


Thanks, I drained the loop, re did the fittings around the card and multi link, if that doesn't work out i'll re-install the water block again later.

Draining the loop was the most annoying thing I did with this rig, that's a note to my future builds


----------



## wermad

Is it me or does that sli/crystal link looks like it's slightly tilted???

@makavelismalls: did you test your cards on the stock cooler prior to installing the water blocks?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it me or does that sli/crystal link looks like it's slightly tilted???
> 
> @makavelismalls: did you test your cards on the stock cooler prior to installing the water blocks?


I see it too. It looks like the top card is closer to the mobo than the bottom card. Like the bottom card isn't pressed into the PCIe slot all the way


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it me or does that sli/crystal link looks like it's slightly tilted???
> 
> @makavelismalls: did you test your cards on the stock cooler prior to installing the water blocks?


yes, i did test it, the top card was always hotter but i think that was because it had no room for airflow
And no it's not just you, that's why I uploaded the picture.









I re-did them and made sure GPUs were fit well on the motherboard and now the tube sits perfectly in a straight angle. But the problem is still there, just did a test and under load the top card goes up to 55C and the bottom one maxes out at 40C. I guess re-installing of the water block is needed


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Enough Coolingpower


Oh my, that's sexy.


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

This is everything there is.
According to GPU-Z the bottom card is the one actually going up to 56C, I don't know why HWinfo has it under GPU#0.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> 
> 
> This is everything there is.
> According to GPU-Z the bottom card is the one actually going up to 56C, I don't know why HWinfo has it under GPU#0.


Clearly one need more V to get to the clock so that also explain a bit of the temp difference but not all; It seems likely the block mount.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> yes, i did test it, the top card was always hotter but i think that was because it had no room for airflow
> And no it's not just you, that's why I uploaded the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I re-did them and made sure GPUs were fit well on the motherboard and now the tube sits perfectly in a straight angle. But the problem is still there, just did a test and under load the top card goes up to 55C and the bottom one maxes out at 40C. I guess re-installing of the water block is needed


Did you test them individually? It makes sense when on air the top card is hotter. But not on water. Let us know what you find after pulling the card.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> Is it normal for one GPU to have higher temps than the other in a water cooled SLI configuration?
> 
> Both GPUs idle around 28C but when benchmarking the top GPU goes up to 55C and the lower is around 40C. SLI enabled and GPU load is 100% on both.
> 
> 
> 
> *Since your cards are in serial, yes.* You should show off your new build in this thread
Click to expand...

No,this is incorrect. The most difference I have had is 2c in tri sli serial linked setup.

The most I have seen reported here is 5c

15c points to a bad mount,improper setup or,possibly however unlikely,a duff block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it me or does that sli/crystal link looks like it's slightly tilted???
> 
> @makavelismalls: did you test your cards on the stock cooler prior to installing the water blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> yes, i did test it, the top card was always hotter but i think that was because it had no room for airflow
> And no it's not just you, that's why I uploaded the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I re-did them and made sure GPUs were fit well on the motherboard and now the tube sits perfectly in a straight angle. But the problem is still there, just did a test and under load the top card goes up to 55C and the bottom one maxes out at 40C. I guess re-installing of the water block is needed
Click to expand...

Is Sli actually enabled? Is it maximizing 3d performance or is one card PhysX?


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,this is incorrect. The most difference I have had is 2c in tri sli serial linked setup.
> 
> The most I have seen reported here is 5c
> 
> 15c points to a bad mount,improper setup or,possibly however unlikely,a duff block.
> Is Sli actually enabled? Is it maximizing 3d performance or is one card PhysX?


Enabled.



I was testing Valley benchmark, that got it up to 56C, I tested 3D mark Firestrike for just 3 minutes the second GPU went to 60C, while the other card stayed around 43C


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Enough Coolingpower


Nice tower







. But why use 120 mm fans? 180 mm ones are quieter i think. I can leave them running at 400 RPM while gaming and switched off when i just watching videos/browsing sites.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Nice tower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But why use 120 mm fans? 180 mm ones are quieter i think. I can leave them running at 400 RPM while gaming and switched off when i just watching videos/browsing sites.


Strictly for radiator performance. For whatever reason the manufacturers have stuck to maximizing static pressure on 120mm fans traditionally. 140mm SP fans have been introduced but so far the best 120mm's still outperform them when used with rads. Also the MoRa rads used there are spaced for 120mm's so there is no option for other sizes.


----------



## derickwm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1550926/official-ek-vulture-mod-off-discussion-thread


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Strictly for radiator performance. For whatever reason the manufacturers have stuck to maximizing static pressure on 120mm fans traditionally. 140mm SP fans have been introduced but so far the best 120mm's still outperform them when used with rads. Also the MoRa rads used there are spaced for 120mm's so there is no option for other sizes.


You can use 180mm fans on the mora 360 and 200mm fans on the mora 420, but like with everything related to this radiator it requires an additional accessory sold seperatly.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> You can use 180mm fans on the mora 360 and 200mm fans on the mora 420, but like with everything related to this radiator it requires an additional accessory sold seperatly.


Thats interesting. When i got mine they included the accessories for both type of fans...


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Clearly one need more V to get to the clock so that also explain a bit of the temp difference but not all; It seems likely the block mount.


I did the water block again and this happened within 30 seconds, opened valley benchmarks didn't even run it, sat in the menu for 10 seconds and the temps were flying...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> I did the water block again and this happened within 30 seconds..


82C not normal obviously...

Can you go through your exact process for mounting the block? Which TIM, how much, dot or cross or spreading, which thermal pads, which thickness, where are you putting pads, which order you are tightening screws, etc etc. Photos can help.


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 82C not normal obviously...
> 
> Can you go through your exact process for mounting the block? Which TIM, how much, dot or cross or spreading, which thermal pads, which thickness, where are you putting pads, which order you are tightening screws, etc etc. Photos can help.


I just re did it and filled the loop, i''ll leave it for an hour then test again.

Two thickness of thermal pads come with the blocks and I did it exactly how the instruction said, TIM is the one that came with the CPU block "arctic silver ceramique 2" X pattern, not too much, exactly like the other card. I'll report back when I test it again.

Something I noticed after the 80C test and taking out the block, one of the thermal pads around the GPU was a little ripped off on the edge, I replaced it with a new one.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> I did it exactly how the instruction said


My experience, when encountering such problems, is that it helps to be very critical of the process and analyse each step for incorrect assumptions. Not just your own part in the process, but also examine critically the physical state of the GPU and the block and so on. Even simple things like checking if the GPU chip is actually touching the block.

That your other block is showing good temperatures can indicate that your method is broadly good. But on the other hand, when you assume you did everything okay, it can cause you to be less critical about certain details, and might hide some valuable clue about the underlying problem.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 82C not normal obviously...
> 
> Can you go through your exact process for mounting the block? Which TIM, how much, dot or cross or spreading, which thermal pads, which thickness, where are you putting pads, which order you are tightening screws, etc etc. Photos can help.
> 
> 
> 
> I just re did it and filled the loop, i''ll leave it for an hour then test again.
> 
> Two thickness of thermal pads come with the blocks and I did it exactly how the instruction said, TIM is the one that came with the CPU block "arctic silver ceramique 2" X pattern, not too much, exactly like the other card. I'll report back when I test it again.
> 
> *Something I noticed after the 80C test and taking out the block, one of the thermal pads around the GPU was a little ripped off on the edge, I replaced it with a new one*.
Click to expand...

Was it a pad edge next to the GPU die?

Looks like it might have slipped a little and wedged between the block and GPU die so that the block had almost no contact with the die.

D.


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

So it looks like I did it right this time, I did everything carefully, not sure if it was the thermal pads or TIM but here are the results after Valley & Firestrike benchmarks.
Thanks for the help


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Thats interesting. When i got mine they included the accessories for both type of fans...


That is interesting. Did you get the LT or Pro version, and did it come with mount supports for 120mm fans on one side or both? I don't actually own one, but I am shopping for one and the way I understand it is the the LT version comes with fan mounts for 120mm or 140mm fans depending on if you get the 360 or 420 for one side only. The Pro comes with 120/140 fan mounts for both sides. On both radiators the large fan mount is a separate accessory just like the radiator feet and fan guard.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> That is interesting. Did you get the LT or Pro version, and did it come with mount supports for 120mm fans on one side or both? I don't actually own one, but I am shopping for one and the way I understand it is the the LT version comes with fan mounts for 120mm or 140mm fans depending on if you get the 360 or 420 for one side only. The Pro comes with 120/140 fan mounts for both sides. On both radiators the large fan mount is a separate accessory just like the radiator feet and fan guard.


You have understood it right. I own 2x WaterCool MO-RA3 420 LT (1260), this particular item comes with two "rails" for mounting of the fans on ONE side of the radiator. The only difference in the LT and the PRO is that the pro comes with four "rails" instead of just two as the LT. They are not supposed to come with "rails" for 180/200mm fans, I actually have this on good authority from the importer/seller of these in Norway (Techbay.no). The "rails" for mounting of the 180/200mm fans could be purchased separately at Aquatuning, I am sure there is more shops that carry them.


----------



## derickwm

Project Tabby


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Project Tabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very cool, Derick!! Great work as usual!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> So it looks like I did it right this time, I did everything carefully, not sure if it was the thermal pads or TIM but here are the results after Valley & Firestrike benchmarks.
> Thanks


Awesome


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Project Tabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That build is great. Very clean and great colors on it.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Project Tabby
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is this glowing logo a SLI bridge? or is it just a Showcase thing. the theme is perfect. the build is perfect. except the logo thing.. It would have been amazing if you place it in the NZXT location,,, think about it









Also derick, can you tell me your GPU temps in such a setup. i'm working on similar project and want to know what i will get into. and what's your ambient.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> That is interesting. Did you get the LT or Pro version, and did it come with mount supports for 120mm fans on one side or both? I don't actually own one, but I am shopping for one and the way I understand it is the the LT version comes with fan mounts for 120mm or 140mm fans depending on if you get the 360 or 420 for one side only. The Pro comes with 120/140 fan mounts for both sides. On both radiators the large fan mount is a separate accessory just like the radiator feet and fan guard.


No, its the 360 LC variant(it was 119€).


----------



## LandonAaron

Edit: Deleted post, irrelevant now.

Does anyone have experience ordering from Aquatuning.US? How long did delivery take? I used the UPS Express Saver shipping option. I looked up this postal service on UPS's website and it says it is a next day delivery service. That seems too good to be true as the shipping was only $8 on a MO-RA 3 and it had a customs fee so it is coming from overseas and will have to go through customs. Maybe that was just for the shipping service state side, and some other non-listed service is used to get it to the US?


----------



## guitarhero23

I'm getting frustrated because I'm having trouble finding somewhere to cut some damn acrylic. All the professional laser places are like for industrial business things and all the smaller trophy shops with lasers aren't powerful enough to cut acrylic...

The one guy I had hope in can't seem to reproduce my design (I have no clue why, any idea?)

I give him this:


And when he traces it in the program he needs to use (CoralDraw) he sends me this back...:

(I know it has two images on it because I had layers but the trace is so innacurate)

Should I CNC it? Where should I do this?

I'm from Connecticut.

Thanks guys.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Got my loop half way done. First time working with hard tubing. You can see more in my build log. Link in signature.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Turned out Great!! Like the Fittings and Color Scheme. Those Parvum Fans are Really Slick.

TCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Project Tabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No Backplates? Just Raw GPUS? Interesting









That Must be an Ek Sli Bridge?

Goodness.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm getting frustrated because I'm having trouble finding somewhere to cut some damn acrylic. All the professional laser places are like for industrial business things and all the smaller trophy shops with lasers aren't powerful enough to cut acrylic...
> 
> The one guy I had hope in can't seem to reproduce my design (I have no clue why, any idea?)
> 
> I give him this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when he traces it in the program he needs to use (CoralDraw) he sends me this back...:
> 
> 
> 
> (I know it has two images on it because I had layers but the trace is so innacurate)
> 
> Should I CNC it? Where should I do this?
> 
> I'm from Connecticut.
> 
> Thanks guys.


Thats A Great Sketch.

For a 3 yr old.

TCO

Good luck. You are so close!!


----------



## akiles333

How do you guys like my newest project? let me know if i should post some more pictures!









Specs:
- i5 4440
- Gtx 970
- gigabyte h87 MB
- Silverstone 450w sfx psu
- Magicool dcp450 pump/res combo
- magicool B60I cpu block
- EK-FC970 gtx wb
- magicool radiator 1x120-45
- 8x EK rigid tubing fittings
- 3x EK 90 degree adapters
- 10/12 acrylic tubing


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm getting frustrated because I'm having trouble finding somewhere to cut some damn acrylic. All the professional laser places are like for industrial business things and all the smaller trophy shops with lasers aren't powerful enough to cut acrylic...
> 
> The one guy I had hope in can't seem to reproduce my design (I have no clue why, any idea?)
> 
> I give him this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when he traces it in the program he needs to use (CoralDraw) he sends me this back...:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I know it has two images on it because I had layers but the trace is so innacurate)
> 
> Should I CNC it? Where should I do this?
> 
> I'm from Connecticut.
> 
> Thanks guys.


Ouch, really how the heck does someone mess up something that simple?
I mean dang, bad considering back in kindergarten I would trace the skeletons from Zoobooks to pass the time that would look way better than that.


----------



## LandonAaron

Just ordered the MO-RA 3 and need a pair of quick disconnects so that I can un-tether it from the case when I need be. I have never owned quick disconnects before and am getting confused looking at the options.

I have 5/8 OD 7/16 ID tubing, which apparently is a tubing size QDC's are not made for. It seems almost all of the disconnects come with barbs or compression fittings integrated into the design so you need to get one that matches your tubing size, which due to my tubing size is problematic. The best I could find was a Koolance QD3 fitting for 1/2" ID tubing.

I also found this:



Looking at the picture it looks like maybe the barb could be replaced. Does anyone know if that is possible? This is a Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Male Panel Barb for ID 13mm (1/2in) Model: QD3-M13-P. The female end looks much the same way, with a barb that has a hex patter at the base and male threads on the outside.

I was thinking also that maybe if the barb doesn't come off it might be possible to use those threads on the outside to slide a female to female adapter over it, and then screw in the correct size barb to that. But by then this thing would be something like 7 or 8 inches long, and that would only work if there is an o-ring at the base of the bard which is impossible to tell from the pictures.

Does anyone have experience with the Koolance QD3's or buying quick disconnects for this size tubing that could point me in the right direction?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Edit: Deleted post, irrelevant now.
> 
> Does anyone have experience ordering from Aquatuning.US? How long did delivery take? I used the UPS Express Saver shipping option. I looked up this postal service on UPS's website and it says it is a next day delivery service. That seems too good to be true as the shipping was only $8 on a MO-RA 3 and it had a customs fee so it is coming from overseas and will have to go through customs. Maybe that was just for the shipping service state side, and some other non-listed service is used to get it to the US?


I've ordered from Aquatuning.us 4 times now to the US. Each time I've chosen their cheapest shipping option (UPS Express Saver 2-3 day), and each time there has been a 'customs fee'. They sometimes have taken a couple days to process my order but the shipping has always been _extremely_ fast, especially coming from Germany, with no delays for customs.

My most recent order was on Fri Mar 6th and incl more than 20 items. I paid $8 for "Customs fairy USA" and $7.16 for shipping. My order didn't finish processing and ship out from them until the following Wed, and it was at my door that following Friday Mar 13. That's actually the longest it has taken for me to get an order from them yet.

FWIW there have been a few posts recently that it's actually cheaper to order from the Aquatuning.de site. The shipping charge is different but the price conversion from euros to dollars comes out cheaper, or at least has recently. edit: Here's one such post explaining it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm getting frustrated because I'm having trouble finding somewhere to cut some damn acrylic. All the professional laser places are like for industrial business things and all the smaller trophy shops with lasers aren't powerful enough to cut acrylic...
> 
> The one guy I had hope in can't seem to reproduce my design (I have no clue why, any idea?)
> 
> I give him this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when he traces it in the program he needs to use (CoralDraw) he sends me this back...:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I know it has two images on it because I had layers but the trace is so innacurate)
> 
> Should I CNC it? Where should I do this?
> 
> I'm from Connecticut.
> 
> Thanks guys.


Well that sucks. I know how you feel though. I live in BFE Washington and you can't find anyone with a Mill to CNC anything until you get to Vancouver which is a 3 hour trek from where I live. Am needing not only CNC work, but Acrylic work.

If you can't find anyone local though, you might contact Performance-PCs and see if they can do what you need. They're in Florida but are much closer to you than they are to me.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Sure.

TCO


----------



## pc-illiterate

*EDIT*
oh lord help me post correctly next time...
sorry guys


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that sucks. I know how you feel though. I live in BFE Washington and you can't find anyone with a Mill to CNC anything until you get to Vancouver which is a 3 hour trek from where I live. Am needing not only CNC work, but Acrylic work.
> 
> If you can't find anyone local though, you might contact Performance-PCs and see if they can do what you need. They're in Florida but are much closer to you than they are to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Good idea, if I don't find anything tomorrow I'll contact them.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Just ordered the MO-RA 3 and need a pair of quick disconnects so that I can un-tether it from the case when I need be. I have never owned quick disconnects before and am getting confused looking at the options.
> 
> I have 5/8 OD 7/16 ID tubing, which apparently is a tubing size QDC's are not made for. It seems almost all of the disconnects come with barbs or compression fittings integrated into the design so you need to get one that matches your tubing size, which due to my tubing size is problematic. The best I could find was a Koolance QD3 fitting for 1/2" ID tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I also found this:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the picture it looks like maybe the barb could be replaced. Does anyone know if that is possible? This is a Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Male Panel Barb for ID 13mm (1/2in) Model: QD3-M13-P. The female end looks much the same way, with a barb that has a hex patter at the base and male threads on the outside.
> 
> I was thinking also that maybe if the barb doesn't come off it might be possible to use those threads on the outside to slide a female to female adapter over it, and then screw in the correct size barb to that. But by then this thing would be something like 7 or 8 inches long, and that would only work if there is an o-ring at the base of the bard which is impossible to tell from the pictures.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the Koolance QD3's or buying quick disconnects for this size tubing that could point me in the right direction?


Would this work? http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_157&products_id=3845 for US http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093516&kind2=53



The male half is here.
http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093528&kind2=53


----------



## VSG

Koolance also makes QDs with male or female G1/4 threaded ports on them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Be much better off using a dedicated shut off with a This and 45 male male setup imho. It's probably cheaper too depending on the parts.

For me it's
$30 Red BP shutoff
BP 45 male male $15
BP T fitting $10.

Bout the same I guess, but plasticizer won't affect it and there is also zero chance corrosion would affect the valve. Which it can with QD fittings.

So just a thought from your friendly neighborhood Ceadderman.









Yes I understand this is for an external... but I would rather drain my loop than rely on QDs'.









~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Be much better off using a dedicated shut off with a This and 45 male male setup imho. It's probably cheaper too depending on the parts.
> 
> For me it's
> $30 Red BP shutoff
> BP 45 male male $15
> BP T fitting $10.
> 
> Bout the same I guess, but plasticizer won't affect it and there is also zero chance corrosion would affect the valve. Which it can with QD fittings.
> 
> So just a thought from your friendly neighborhood Ceadderman.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I understand this is for an external... but I would rather drain my loop than rely on QDs'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Be much better off using a dedicated shut off with a This and 45 male male setup imho. It's probably cheaper too depending on the parts.
> 
> For me it's
> $30 Red BP shutoff
> BP 45 male male $15
> BP T fitting $10.
> 
> Bout the same I guess, but plasticizer won't affect it and there is also zero chance corrosion would affect the valve. Which it can with QD fittings.
> 
> So just a thought from your friendly neighborhood Ceadderman.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I understand this is for an external... but I would rather drain my loop than rely on QDs'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well I want to be able to fill it in a room other than where I will be using it and carry the case and rad separately to the place where it will be used. Also it's going to be bolted to side of case and want to be able to disconnect it to get the back panel open in case I need to get in there to plug in a fan or something.

I always get myself so confused with this ID OD stuff and the fractions. I just realized 1/2" fittings are only 1/16" larger than my 7/16 ID tubing. So that should definitely work.


----------



## SteezyTN

First time doing hard tubing. The monsoon bender kit HELPED A LOT! Decided to go PrimoChill PETG and revolver fittings.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akiles333*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys like my newest project? let me know if i should post some more pictures!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> - i5 4440
> - Gtx 970
> - gigabyte h87 MB
> - Silverstone 450w sfx psu
> - Magicool dcp450 pump/res combo
> - magicool B60I cpu block
> - EK-FC970 gtx wb
> - magicool radiator 1x120-45
> - 8x EK rigid tubing fittings
> - 3x EK 90 degree adapters
> - 10/12 acrylic tubing


You should post more pictures without asking







watercooled SFF needs more love


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm getting frustrated because I'm having trouble finding somewhere to cut some damn acrylic. All the professional laser places are like for industrial business things and all the smaller trophy shops with lasers aren't powerful enough to cut acrylic...
> 
> The one guy I had hope in can't seem to reproduce my design (I have no clue why, any idea?)
> 
> I give him this:
> 
> 
> And when he traces it in the program he needs to use (CoralDraw) he sends me this back...:
> 
> (I know it has two images on it because I had layers but the trace is so innacurate)
> 
> Should I CNC it? Where should I do this?
> 
> I'm from Connecticut.
> 
> Thanks guys.


chat to Dutch lion customizing/diamond cooling, they are doing all my acrylic work

https://www.facebook.com/DutchLionCustomising


----------



## TONSCHUH

XFORMA MBX MKII Limited Edition PC Case Announced For $1,250


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> XFORMA MBX MKII Limited Edition PC Case Announced For $1,250


It was originally announced a long time ago Novemeber 2011. Pre-orders finally opened last December. A news release means Charles got enough pre-orders since then to fund production.

It's a beautiful thing, and sure most comments are going to be about price, but I just think it's an out of date design.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It was originally announced a long time ago Novemeber 2011. Pre-orders finally opened last December. A news release means Charles got enough pre-orders since then to fund production.
> 
> It's a beautiful thing, and sure most comments are going to be about price, but I just think it's an out of date design.


True that. Looks pretty much just like the SilverStone TJ07B, just reversed and way more expensive.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm getting frustrated because I'm having trouble finding somewhere to cut some damn acrylic. All the professional laser places are like for industrial business things and all the smaller trophy shops with lasers aren't powerful enough to cut acrylic...
> 
> The one guy I had hope in can't seem to reproduce my design (I have no clue why, any idea?)
> 
> I give him this:
> 
> 
> And when he traces it in the program he needs to use (CoralDraw) he sends me this back...:
> 
> (I know it has two images on it because I had layers but the trace is so innacurate)
> 
> Should I CNC it? Where should I do this?
> 
> I'm from Connecticut.
> 
> Thanks guys.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that sucks. I know how you feel though. I live in BFE Washington and you can't find anyone with a Mill to CNC anything until you get to Vancouver which is a 3 hour trek from where I live. Am needing not only CNC work, but Acrylic work.
> 
> If you can't find anyone local though, you might contact Performance-PCs and see if they can do what you need. They're in Florida but are much closer to you than they are to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


have either of you looked into lazerwerx? Their site says they're located in Washington and it looks like they take custom orders. They're also partnered up with FrozenQ


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> have either of you looked into lazerwerx? Their site says they're located in Washington and it looks like they take custom orders. They're also partnered up with FrozenQ


I will contact them! Thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> XFORMA MBX MKII Limited Edition PC Case Announced For $1,250
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was originally announced a long time ago Novemeber 2011. Pre-orders finally opened last December. A news release means Charles got enough pre-orders since then to fund production.
> 
> It's a beautiful thing, and sure most comments are going to be about price, but I just think it's an out of date design.
Click to expand...

Agreed,too late and too much money for what amounts to a inverted 07. You could build yourself one for half the outlay easily.
Sorry Charles,your designs are great but you missed the boat on this......by about 2 years.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Agreed,too late and too much money for what amounts to a inverted 07. You could build yourself one for half the outlay easily.
> Sorry Charles,your designs are great but you missed the boat on this......by about 2 years.


Yeah, unfortunately.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> 
> 
> XFORMA MBX MKII Limited Edition PC Case Announced For $1,250


Why 1250$? Handmade?


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Why 1250$? Handmade?


the creator hammered out all the panels with nothing more than a industrial pizza oven and a rubber mallet


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Why 1250$? Handmade?


Low production amount? Cost vs profit not high enough?

TCO


----------



## emsj86

To me and it goes with other things in life as that mk11 case doesn't appeal. Why? Because for the same reason when I sold my chopper people want to customize there own bike. I did get all the money or close to what I out into it because people want to make it there own. And on this case why pay 1200 us when caselabs allows you to buy a case of similar caliber and customize it to your liking. Still a grey looking case. And by no means he didn't do a good job just my two cents is all


----------



## Yungbenny911

If it made pancakes in the morning, i'll take two


----------



## Kimir

Clicky the link and read the few first sentences to see:
Quote:


> A limited series of 250 MKII cases are offered for sale...


----------



## Doc3379

That case looks a million times better than anything CaseLabs has ever put out. Is it worth the extra cost, probably not. But damn! It sure looks good.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The really horrible thing is that the $1200 doesnt include the sLight midplate,the res mounts,the Aquaero mounts nor either of the rad mounts or the dual fan in the top,you are paying for a tweaked 07 for that money...

If you want all the garnish that makes that case desirable....$2000.

Lovely but no thanks.

It may be limited edition but not $2000 worth of limited edition,not by a long chalk.


----------



## wermad

For 1200, you can make a 1200 look as good, Lol. This is not murdermod related btw???


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> For 1200, you can make a 1200 look as good, Lol. This is not murdermod related btw???


Yup,Charles and Nils are XFORMA now.


----------



## sebkow

muderbox 1 didnt go to well im surprised there even doing a second. To be honest as much as it looks great on the outside ( tj07) i still prefer caselabs or even phantek over this. The design is out of date but it feels like 2006 again so if you want to travel back in time go ahead.


----------



## catbuster

XFORMA MBX MKII








1200 would be ok for some ppl, but u actually have to pay over 2000 to get full case...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1419106/metallicacids-tj07/490#post_23111842

I think @MetallicAcid did it cheaper


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I think I need to do an 07 soon.......


----------



## LandonAaron

What is the best dirt cheap 140mm radiator fan? Considering either the Yate Loon 140x140x25mm Clear Medium Speed Fan with Quad Red LED D14SM-124R, or the Phobya Nano-G 14 Silent Waterproof 1000rpm ( 140x140x25mm). I was also considering the XSPC fans as I have a few of those already and they pretty good very quite fans, but I want something with a little more color. I really like the look of the Phobya's with the black housing and red fan blades. Has anyone ever used these before. What was your experience?


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think I need to do an 07 soon.......


Yes pls!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> What is the best dirt cheap 140mm radiator fan? Considering either the Yate Loon 140x140x25mm Clear Medium Speed Fan with Quad Red LED D14SM-124R, or the Phobya Nano-G 14 Silent Waterproof 1000rpm ( 140x140x25mm). I was also considering the XSPC fans as I have a few of those already and they pretty good very quite fans, but I want something with a little more color. I really like the look of the Phobya's with the black housing and red fan blades. Has anyone ever used these before. What was your experience?


You could always use AF140's


----------



## SynchroSCP

Anyone here using external radiators? Since upgrading to the Titan X my loop delta is higher than I am comfortable with and thinking of building an external rad unit. My pc sits in a cubby of a wall unit and when it warms up some of the heat gets recirculated driving temps up, an external rad would help move a lot of the heat out and away. I have tons of shelf space above the pc and would have no problems putting it to use for rad space, thinking about the Magicool Hexa 720...any advice?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Fans done for the EK Vulture build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> have either of you looked into lazerwerx? Their site says they're located in Washington and it looks like they take custom orders. They're also partnered up with FrozenQ
> 
> 
> 
> I will contact them! Thanks
Click to expand...

Ditto! I've figured out that a 8mm thick acrylic panel 20.75"x14.75" square would cost me $65 before taxes and shipping are applied. Not to mention cutting it to specs. So Washington state is much better for logistics sake.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> For 1200, you can make a 1200 look as good, Lol. This is not murdermod related btw???


Shoot I could probably gold plate this build for less and bring it up for $1200.









Is it me or does that look like a Silverstone TJ system? I could get one of those Cases for a bit more than half of what that one goes for.









~Cease


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fans done for the EK Vulture build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Daaayum!


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Anyone here using external radiators? Since upgrading to the Titan X my loop delta is higher than I am comfortable with and thinking of building an external rad unit. My pc sits in a cubby of a wall unit and when it warms up some of the heat gets recirculated driving temps up, an external rad would help move a lot of the heat out and away. I have tons of shelf space above the pc and would have no problems putting it to use for rad space, thinking about the Magicool Hexa 720...any advice?


I am using an external 420mm rad and am upgrading to the Mora 3 9x140mm radiator. Don't use hardline tubing. You don't want something bumping the rad and cracking the line. Get a T fitting or a radiator with drain port, so you can use that as your drain location. You can get a radiator with a fill port as well, but its not really necessary or all that helpful as you will still need to fill at the reservoir to make sure the pump is wet. When you are filling/bleeding the loop turn the radiator upside down to let all the air out. I recommend getting the biggest radiator you can get if doing external, especially if it won't be mounted to the case. The price doesn't really scale up that much with size so might as will get the biggest. Use low RPM fans as there will be no case to dampen the fan noise. If you get a really big rad with alot of fans take time to figure out how you will connect all those fans. Oh yeah and enjoy those awesome temperatures. Nothing beats an external rad. Cool air in and warm air out.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I am using an external 420mm rad and am upgrading to the Mora 3 9x140mm radiator. Don't use hardline tubing. You don't want something bumping the rad and cracking the line. Get a T fitting or a radiator with drain port, so you can use that as your drain location. You can get a radiator with a fill port as well, but its not really necessary or all that helpful as you will still need to fill at the reservoir to make sure the pump is wet. When you are filling/bleeding the loop turn the radiator upside down to let all the air out. I recommend getting the biggest radiator you can get if doing external, especially if it won't be mounted to the case. The price doesn't really scale up that much with size so might as will get the biggest. Use low RPM fans as there will be no case to dampen the fan noise. If you get a really big rad with alot of fans take time to figure out how you will connect all those fans. Oh yeah and enjoy those awesome temperatures. Nothing beats an external rad. Cool air in and warm air out.


Thanks and +rep.

Mo-Ra3 is tempting, very tempting.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Thanks and +rep.
> 
> Mo-Ra3 is tempting, very tempting.


Also check out the Phobya 1080 and 1260. They are basically giant Alphacool Rads. Full copper and same FPI and comes in 45mm or 60mm version on the 1080. The 1260 only comes in 45mm thick version.


----------



## jagdtigger

Since the topic turned to rads, if i have 2 of the same rads which setup is the best. Parallel or serial?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Since the topic turned to rads, if i have 2 of the same rads which setup is the best. Parallel or serial?


always series with radiators


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> always series with radiators


I read somewhere that parallel is good for rads as the water flows through the rads slower giving it more time to cool. I have never tested it, mine are connected in serial as it would be too much tubing to do it parallel, but it would be interesting to see a comparison.


----------



## snef




----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I read somewhere that parallel is good for rads as the water flows through the rads slower giving it more time to cool. I have never tested it, mine are connected in serial as it would be too much tubing to do it parallel, but it would be interesting to see a comparison.


And two rads in parallel will have less restriction than one so the blocks will benefit from it too. But if i get a second mo-ra 360 i have to buy a second set of QD'S...

@snef
Nice rig.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ditto! I've figured out that a 8mm thick acrylic panel 20.75"x14.75" square would cost me $65 before taxes and shipping are applied. Not to mention cutting it to specs. So Washington state is much better for logistics sake.
> Shoot I could probably gold plate this build for less and bring it up for $1200.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it me or does that look like a Silverstone TJ system? I could get one of those Cases for a bit more than half of what that one goes for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Cease


I think it's based on the 07.

Not sure if the murderbox mk2 was based on the temjin 11(?).


----------



## Ceadderman

That build looks sharp snef. Q: though... what in lords name are you needing a 3 port cap on your Res for?









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That build looks sharp snef. Q: though... what in lords name are you needing a 3 port cap on your Res for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


inverted ek x3 res connected directly to the pump top using the 'top fill port'.....


----------



## LandonAaron

Is it possible to paint the fan blades of those orange Cougar Fans?


----------



## VSG

Cougar makes a black blade version of their non LED fans also. Just add a B to the end of the product name, such as CF-V12HPB. Here the only orange is on the corners as vibration dampening pads which you can use a simple marker on.


----------



## wermad

I'm a cougar fan


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I read somewhere that parallel is good for rads as the water flows through the rads slower giving it more time to cool. I have never tested it, mine are connected in serial as it would be too much tubing to do it parallel, but it would be interesting to see a comparison.


Its definitely not better. It is the tubes and fins of the radiator that dissipates heat from the system. The warmer they are the higher the watts dissipated. Slowing the flow of coolant only allows it to cool down more which is NOT what you want. If the start of the rad is 10 degrees above ambient and the end of it has fallen to 8 degrees over ambient then the rad is dissipating 20% less wattage at its outlet than at the inlet. If the flow was sped up so that the fluid did not have time to drop in temp then the same wattage is being dissipated at the outlet as the inlet.

Any time you see Marketing speak about retaining fluid longer for better performance (which is not possible without dropping flow rate) they are talking nonsense.


----------



## guitarhero23

Welp, Finally got around to flushing out a rad that I bought on ebay that was "open box" but new. XSPC EX360. Used warm distilled+white viegar.

Flush 1:



Would the blue tint be caused by corrosion or because it wasn't really new and someone used blue dye in a loop before.

Flush 3: (Less residue)


Should I keep flushing it w/vinegar+distilled and shaking? Or should I blitz it? The problem is I should leak check my rig before I run a blitz (if I do) but I don't want that crap getting in my other stuff while leak testing.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Cougar makes a black blade version of their non LED fans also. Just add a B to the end of the product name, such as CF-V12HPB. Here the only orange is on the corners as vibration dampening pads which you can use a simple marker on.


Yeah but the orange ones are $5 cheaper and I need 9.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Welp, Finally got around to flushing out a rad that I bought on ebay that was "open box" but new. XSPC EX360. Used warm distilled+white viegar.
> 
> Flush 1:
> 
> 
> 
> Would the blue tint be caused by corrosion or because it wasn't really new and someone used blue dye in a loop before.
> 
> Flush 3: (Less residue)
> 
> 
> Should I keep flushing it w/vinegar+distilled and shaking? Or should I blitz it? The problem is I should leak check my rig before I run a blitz (if I do) but I don't want that crap getting in my other stuff while leak testing.


Yup. Keep flushing and filtering out the debris.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


snef, that is a thing of beauty!


----------



## aaroc

What do you think about the Steiger dynamics? https://www.steigerdynamics.com/
At least for an wc htpc?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> What do you think about the Steiger dynamics? https://www.steigerdynamics.com/
> At least for an wc htpc?


I really like their cases. Reminds me of those beefy Emotiva/Marantz pre-amps/receivers.

In terms of the cost - well, if you can afford it then go for it. I'd rather build my own - but using their cases.


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> What do you think about the Steiger dynamics? https://www.steigerdynamics.com/
> At least for an wc htpc?


A lot of their cases look like OrigenAE cases. I wonder if its the same OEM. I have an OrigenAE S21T which is essentially the same case but on steroids:


----------



## alexelemental

Hello guys im new to custom water loops i have been watching videos and looking for parts But I'm not sure about what to use for the system I plan to build was thinking a micro atx. The case Fractal Desing Arc Mini R2. Cpu i7 4790k 16gb ram and titan x. I think I would fit 2x240 rads one on top the other in front. I could go with 360 on top bit i would have to sacrifice the odd bay which i was planning on maybe using for blu ray or maybe fan controller or res havent decided. Would two 240s be enough with only 2 fans each? If i go with monsta radiators would my noctua nf f12s be enough or do you have to use push-pull config for the 8mm thick monstas?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexelemental*
> 
> Hello guys im new to custom water loops i have been watching videos and looking for parts But I'm not sure about what to use for the system I plan to build was thinking a micro atx. The case Fractal Desing Arc Mini R2. Cpu i7 4790k 16gb ram and titan x. I think I would fit 2x240 rads one on top the other in front. I could go with 360 on top bit i would have to sacrifice the odd bay which i was planning on maybe using for blu ray or maybe fan controller or res havent decided. Would two 240s be enough with only 2 fans each? If i go with monsta radiators would my noctua nf f12s be enough or do you have to use push-pull config for the 8mm thick monstas?


Twin 240 rads will work just fine but don't use Monstas. They aren't worth the extra space and can work worse than more conveniently sized rads.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Welp, Finally got around to flushing out a rad that I bought on ebay that was "open box" but new. XSPC EX360. Used warm distilled+white viegar.
> 
> Flush 1:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would the blue tint be caused by corrosion or because it wasn't really new and someone used blue dye in a loop before.
> 
> Flush 3: (Less residue)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I keep flushing it w/vinegar+distilled and shaking? Or should I blitz it? The problem is I should leak check my rig before I run a blitz (if I do) but I don't want that crap getting in my other stuff while leak testing.


I did my initial rad flush into a white bowl. Took about 15 rinses with vigerous shaking to get no particles. You can use tap water for the rinses and then distilled for the last 2 or 3. The blue is most likely copper oxide. Not sure if you need the vinegar.


----------



## alexelemental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Twin 240 rads will work just fine but don't use Monstas. They aren't worth the extra space and can work worse than more conveniently sized rads.


Ok. Which rads and parts would you recommend? Also would a pair of fans like noctuas nf f12s or corsair sp120 se be enough for each radiator? Thanks in advanced


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexelemental*
> 
> Ok. Which rads and parts would you recommend? Also would a pair of fans like noctuas nf f12s or corsair sp120 se be enough for each radiator? Thanks in advanced


Well, whatever you like the look of that will fit in the Arc Mini. I'm not sure how much room there is for thickness.

For fans in a single layer either Eloop or Vardar


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


what is this case? I'm going to assume hand made


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> what is this case? I'm going to assume hand made


It's the EK Vulture. Snef was selected as one of the few to do a build competition with that case. I think there were only something like 50 made.


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It's the EK Vulture. Snef was selected as one of the few to do a build competition with that case. I think there were only something like 50 made.


it's so good. mini-itx and a 360 rad!!!


----------



## BartKessels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm getting frustrated because I'm having trouble finding somewhere to cut some damn acrylic. All the professional laser places are like for industrial business things and all the smaller trophy shops with lasers aren't powerful enough to cut acrylic...
> 
> The one guy I had hope in can't seem to reproduce my design (I have no clue why, any idea?)
> 
> I give him this:
> 
> 
> And when he traces it in the program he needs to use (CoralDraw) he sends me this back...:
> 
> (I know it has two images on it because I had layers but the trace is so innacurate)
> 
> Should I CNC it? Where should I do this?
> 
> I'm from Connecticut.
> 
> Thanks guys.


maybe http://www.coldzero.eu/


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> it's so good. mini-itx and a 360 rad!!!


Yeah, they did a great job on it. Shame they made so few. I have a feeling they'd sell like crazy if they were to mass produce it


----------



## fast_fate

mmm, copper


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> It's the EK Vulture. Snef was selected as one of the few to do a build competition with that case. I think there were only something like 50 made.


So was it just made for modders to showcase EK products? I assumed the whole point of the competitiin was to create interest in the case itself which EK would then release.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> mmm, copper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Got dem...

Look amazing...

Perform not so great....

10/10 Would buy again..


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So was it just made for modders to showcase EK products? I assumed the whole point of the competitiin was to create interest in the case itself which EK would then release.


I'm not entirely sure. I thought it was a limited edition run of only like 50 cases. The only ones I've even seen are the ones being used in the competition build off. Not sure where the other ~40 went


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got dem...
> 
> Look amazing...
> 
> *Perform not so great....
> 
> 10/10 Would buy again*..


Haha, this cracked me up B Neg. Those are some gorgeous rads, @fast_fate!







Those look like some nice Australian-made Rocket Science fittings there!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got dem...
> 
> Look amazing...*Things of beauty*
> 
> Perform not so great....*Currently in the Test Chamber (expectations not too high)*
> 
> 10/10 Would buy again....












Little Brother...


----------



## Jeffinslaw

They have a slimmer version??


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> They have a slimmer version??


Yep. Airplex radical is called:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=7_31_2060

smaller in thickness with less ports. Gorgeous rads actually. I just wish they performed a little better.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got dem...
> 
> Look amazing...*Things of beauty*
> 
> Perform not so great....*Currently in the Test Chamber (expectations not too high)*
> 
> 10/10 Would buy again....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little Brother...
Click to expand...

I wanted them until I heard they perform like crap....and only available as 360's?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> They have a slimmer version??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. Airplex radical is called:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=7_31_2060
> 
> smaller in thickness with less ports. Gorgeous rads actually. I just wish they performed a little better.


As Gabz said









The Radical2 is *NOT* one of the Modularity range though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wanted then until I heard they perform like crap....and only available as 360's?


Yeah - not at all good in the performance department unfortunately


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> They have a slimmer version??
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. Airplex radical is called:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=7_31_2060
> 
> smaller in thickness with less ports. Gorgeous rads actually. I just wish they performed a little better.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got dem...
> 
> Look amazing...*Things of beauty*
> 
> Perform not so great....*Currently in the Test Chamber (expectations not too high)*
> 
> 10/10 Would buy again....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little Brother...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wanted then until I heard they perform like crap....and only available as 360's?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> They have a slimmer version??
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. Airplex radical is called:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=7_31_2060
> 
> smaller in thickness with less ports. Gorgeous rads actually. I just wish they performed a little better.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As Gabz said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Radical2 is *NOT* one of the Modularity range though.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wanted then until I heard they perform like crap....and only available as 360's?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah - not at all good in the performance department unfortunately
Click to expand...

Man.... 360MM only?? Those would have been perfect if they came in 240MM. Wouldn't mind the performance hit too much.


----------



## LandonAaron

So Cougar makes a green fan and a blue fan, but instead of making a red fan they make an orange fan and put red LED's on it. We get it you really like the color orange. But if you are going to make a red fan, why not just make it red???


----------



## LandonAaron

Has anyone used these Rosewill fans:



I like the aesthetics of it. It has 4 red led's not shown in this image. Also it has a Fluid Dynamic bearing instead of the regular sleeve bearings found on most cheaper fans. It is $11. Though at this price I am itching up to the price range where I might as well just spend a little more and get some Corsair SP140's or Cougars.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Looks like a Sickleflow knock off.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Got dem...
> 
> Look amazing...
> 
> *Perform not so great....
> 
> 10/10 Would buy again*..
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, this cracked me up B Neg. Those are some gorgeous rads, @fast_fate!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those look like some nice Australian-made Rocket Science fittings there!
Click to expand...

I have been doing this long enough to know that obsessing over rad numbers is pretty pointless,buy what you like the look of,it all performs +/- 5% of each other,spend the money on pumps,fans and a decent CPU block.


----------



## ozzy1925

some progress


----------



## guitarhero23

I'm SO glad to be done drilling the large holes that could cause me to destroy pieces of a $600 case.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Has anyone used these Rosewill fans:
> 
> 
> 
> I like the aesthetics of it. It has 4 red led's not shown in this image. Also it has a Fluid Dynamic bearing instead of the regular sleeve bearings found on most cheaper fans. It is $11. Though at this price I am itching up to the price range where I might as well just spend a little more and get some Corsair SP140's or Cougars.


I'm gonna butcher it but aren't the rosewell hydrobolla s 140mm and I believe newegg has them for 2 for. 14.99 for a cheap fan


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been doing this long enough to know that obsessing over rad numbers is pretty pointless,buy what you like the look of,it all performs +/- 5% of each other,spend the money on pumps,fans and a decent CPU block.


Agree B. I am not that much concerned about the performance in terms of temps however. I am more concerned with flow since less pump power equals less noise. The only thing keeping me from using auqacomputer rads so far is the above average restriction....But I guess a full parallel loop on the blocks can solve that as I certainly find out recently


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Man.... 360MM only?? Those would have been perfect if they came in 240MM. Wouldn't mind the performance hit too much.


Will be available in all other common sizes too and also as a thicker variant. We even have the raw material here for all of them since months but not put them on sale yet since the current backlog of all AMS, radical and GIGANT radiators is killing us. The oldest orders go back to 2014...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Will be available in all other common sizes too and also as a thicker variant. We even have the raw material here for all of them since months but not put them on sale yet since the current backlog of all AMS, radical and GIGANT radiators is killing us. The oldest orders go back to 2014...


I suppose that is a good problem to have but I definitely see why it is frustrating as well.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its definitely not better. It is the tubes and fins of the radiator that dissipates heat from the system. The warmer they are the higher the watts dissipated. Slowing the flow of coolant only allows it to cool down more which is NOT what you want. If the start of the rad is 10 degrees above ambient and the end of it has fallen to 8 degrees over ambient then the rad is dissipating 20% less wattage at its outlet than at the inlet. If the flow was sped up so that the fluid did not have time to drop in temp then the same wattage is being dissipated at the outlet as the inlet.
> 
> Any time you see Marketing speak about retaining fluid longer for better performance (which is not possible without dropping flow rate) they are talking nonsense.


This logic is a little bit strange to me. My common sense tells me the colder water can carry more heat energy... Besides 2 radiator in parallel wont slow down the flow. It will have the opposite effect on the overall loop.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm gonna butcher it but aren't the rosewell hydrobolla s 140mm and I believe newegg has them for 2 for. 14.99 for a cheap fan


I wish. Its $15.99 for 1. I hate shopping for fans. Too many choices and I feel they are all way overpriced. If I can 18" fan from walmart for $20 why does a little 14cm fan cost $20? But then again I think a lot of things are overpriced. Fittings and Fans especially though.


----------



## Teplous

*"Theoretically"*

Could I run 99.8% Isopropyl Alcohol in a loop? And/Or submerse my computer in 99.8% Isopropyl Alcohol?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> This logic is a little bit strange to me. My common sense tells me the colder water can carry more heat energy... Besides 2 radiator in parallel wont slow down the flow. It will have the opposite effect on the overall loop.


OK, I follow what you are saying ... But, In normal loops the restriction of radiators is usually insignificant compared to water blocks so if rads are in series or parallel does not make enough of a difference to impact overall loop flow very much if at all. So we are really just talking about the flow through the radiators being cut in half or a little more than half.

Now, cold water does not carry _more_ energy. Colder water going through the water blocks will cool the chips to a lower temp because much like the air to water delta of the whole system, the chips have a core - to - water, or core - to - block surface delta, that stays relatively constant. As one temp changes the other will with it.
In practice though slowing loop flow does not drop the water out temp of the rads very much ... less than the direct loss of performance on the block due to lower flow.

I know it seems counter intuitive, but if you just follow how the loop truly works in thought experiments then you want;
rads as warm as the loop can make them ... Warmer rads dissipate more watts
Water blocks as cool as the loop can make them ... Cooler blocks make cooler chips.
In both cases; slowing flow allows the rads to be cooled more by the fans and blocks to be warmed more by the cores.
Thinking too much about absolute temps can confuse more than help ... what is important is wattage, the more the better. More temp difference between rad surface -to- air and core -to- block is more watts.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Man.... 360MM only?? Those would have been perfect if they came in 240MM. Wouldn't mind the performance hit too much.
> 
> 
> 
> Will be available in all other common sizes too and also as a thicker variant. We even have the raw material here for all of them since months but not put them on sale yet since the current backlog of all AMS, radical and GIGANT radiators is killing us. The oldest orders go back to 2014...
Click to expand...

Well I will be looking forward to that whenever that happens!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little Brother...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love the core maximisation and unique mounting system of these but man I wish they would make a flattened tube version somehow.
Would totally get them if they worked a little better.

How does their internal flow work? Doesn't seem like it could be U flow. Is it front to back or all in line or something?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> OK, I follow what you are saying ... But, In normal loops the restriction of radiators is usually insignificant compared to water blocks so if rads are in series or parallel does not make enough of a difference to impact flow very much if at all. So we are really just talking about the flow through the radiators being cut in half or a little more than half.
> 
> Now, cold water does not carry energy. Colder water going through the water blocks will cool the chips to a lower temp because much like the air to water delta of the whole system, the chips have a core - to - water, or core - to - block surface delta, that stays relatively constant. As one temp changes the other will with it.
> In practice though slowing loop flow does not drop the water out temp of the rads very much ... less than the direct loss of performance on the block due to lower flow.
> 
> I know it seems counter intuitive, but if you just follow how the loop truly works in thought experiments then you want;
> rads as warm as the loop can make them ... Warmer rads dissipate more watts
> Water blocks as cool as the loop can make them ... Cooler blocks make cooler chips.
> In both cases; slowing flow allows the rads to be cooled more by the fans and blocks to be warmed more by the cores.
> Thinking too much about absolute temps can confuse more than help ... what is important is wattage, the more the better. More temp difference between rad surface -to- air and core -to- block is more watts.


This is crazy. Of course the water carries energy. It doesn't just cool the CPU by the essence of its existence. Also, these though experiments will do nothing to show whether serial or parallel flow will cool the CPU better or worse. You will need some physics and real math or empirical evidence from an actual experiment to show that. In theory though parallel flow through the rads should not effect the flow though the CPU. As soon the two lines coming out of the two rad reconnect the flow will go right back up to the same level as if it was run serial through them. In fact, since there is less restriction the flow would be higher if anything. So the only real question is if putting all your water though one rad and cooling it by some amount then passing it through a second rad to cool it further will cool the water more or less than taking half the water and running it through one rad at a slower rate, and taking the other half and doing the same. Will two passes on all of the water at a higher rate cool better than a single pass at a slower rate? I don't know, but I don't think you do either.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> This is crazy. Of course the water carries energy. It doesn't just cool the CPU by the essence of its existence. Also, these though experiments will do nothing to show whether serial or parallel flow will cool the CPU better or worse. You will need some physics and real math or empirical evidence from an actual experiment to show that. In theory though parallel flow through the rads should not effect the flow though the CPU. As soon the two lines coming out of the two rad reconnect the flow will go right back up to the same level as if it was run serial through them. In fact, since there is less restriction the flow would be higher if anything. So the only real question is if putting all your water though one rad and cooling it by some amount then passing it through a second rad to cool it further will cool the water more or less than taking half the water and running it through one rad at a slower rate, and taking the other half and doing the same. Will two passes on all of the water at a higher rate cool better than a single pass at a slower rate? I don't know, but I don't think you do either.


I think the answer to this is a case-by-case analysis. For every build there is going to be a different amount of head pressure, tubing, bends, combo of blocks and rads, etc etc. For some builds I imagine splitting the flow would help more, and for others vice versa.

And cold water absolutely carries energy. Because there is flow in the system, if you were to look at a water loop in a thermodynamic step-by-step analysis you would be using the enthalpy values. Qin would be the water blocks, adding heat (and energy) to the water, along with a slight heat input via the pump. The radiators would obviously cool off the water, reducing the temp and energy.

To do a proper analysis accurate monitoring equipment would be needed before and after every device in the loop, monitoring temperature. The system would also need to be in steady state (100% load and max fan speed for every component) for a sustained amount of time to get accurate results.

Honestly I think the difference would be small, nearly negligible at best. I suggest doing whatever is easier to set up. As long as the mass flow rate of the working fluid is high enough that the water doesn't stagnate at the blocks/rads then it should be fine regardless.

One last thing, all that really matters is temperature. Using the temperature deltas you can easily figure out the change in enthalpy in kJ/kg, and if you have the mass flowrate you can figure out the actual power in and out at each component in watts. Because we're dealing with water in a compressed liquid state, difference in pressures (especially low pressure from the pump - a few PSI is barely anything in a thermodynamic sense) don't make a noticeable difference in this situation.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> This is crazy. Of course the water carries energy. It doesn't just cool the CPU by the essence of its existence. Also, these though experiments will do nothing to show whether serial or parallel flow will cool the CPU better or worse. You will need some physics and real math or empirical evidence from an actual experiment to show that. In theory though parallel flow through the rads should not effect the flow though the CPU. As soon the two lines coming out of the two rad reconnect the flow will go right back up to the same level as if it was run serial through them. In fact, since there is less restriction the flow would be higher if anything. So the only real question is if putting all your water though one rad and cooling it by some amount then passing it through a second rad to cool it further will cool the water more or less than taking half the water and running it through one rad at a slower rate, and taking the other half and doing the same. Will two passes on all of the water at a higher rate cool better than a single pass at a slower rate? I don't know, but I don't think you do either.


I didn't say water didn't carry energy. I said *Cold Water doesn't carry energy*, as in it doesn't carry more energy simply being cold as in
"My common sense tells me the colder water can carry more heat energy"

Not sure why that part is the part addressed but anyway, The thought experiments do show the CPU would be cooled worse by parallel rads simply because they radiate less wattage and less wattage means higher delta which means higher water temp which means higher CPU temp.

Yes the flow returns to normal after being split at the parallel rads, it wasn't implied to be anything else. The mentioning of block flow was only to illustrate that they are two sides of the one coin.

You are still focusing on passes, but how about this.
Two loops one with serial rads and one with parallel
The numbers are exhagerated for ease of use but accurately reflect the *differences you see with series vs parallel temp change*

The rads dissipate 500W at 10C.
In series the first rad drops the coolant by 1C and the second by 0.9C for an 8.1C oulet temp
The parallel rads with half the flow rate drop the coolant by double what the first series rad does so 2C for an 8C outlet.
That means that the series rads are dissipating an average of 50X9.5 and 50X8.55 for 475 + 427.5
902.5W
The parallel rads each dissipate an average of 50x9 for 450X2
900W

Just with that simple math the series rads dissipate slightly more wattage, not less.
Now what if the rads were not directly connected to each other but instead had heat producing components between them. Then the wattage is even higher.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I didn't say water didn't carry energy. I said *Cold Water doesn't carry energy*, as in it doesn't carry more energy being cold as in
> "My common sense tells me the colder water can carry more heat energy"
> 
> Not sure why that part is the part addressed but anyway, The thought experiments do show the CPU would be cooled worse by parallel rads simply because they radiate less wattage and less wattage means higher delta which means higher water temp which means higher CPU temp.
> 
> Yes the flow returns to normal after being split at the parallel rads, it wasn't implied to be anything else.


I don't understand - cold water does carry energy, but it doesn't, but it does? Cold water carries less energy than hot water, but it still has quite a bit of energy. Water has a pretty high specific heat so even at low temperature values it can hold a surprising amount of energy. For example at 30c and roughly atmospheric pressure 1 kg of water contains over 125 kJ of energy.

I think what you mean is that cold water can pick up more energy from the blocks than hot water - this is definitely true. The higher the delta in temperature between two objects, the higher the heat transfer rate between the two.

I agree with most of what you said but that part in particular stuck out to me.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> I don't understand - cold water does carry energy, but it doesn't, but it does? Cold water carries less energy than hot water, but it still has quite a bit of energy. Water has a pretty high specific heat so even at low temperature values it can hold a surprising amount of energy. For example at 30c and roughly atmospheric pressure 1 kg of water contains over 125 kJ of energy.
> 
> I think what you mean is that cold water can pick up more energy from the blocks than hot water - this is definitely true. The higher the delta in temperature between two objects, the higher the heat transfer rate between the two.
> 
> I agree with most of what you said but that part in particular stuck out to me.


Yes, congrats, its a badly written sentence.
Now, to be totally clear about this one sentence. It goes back to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its definitely not better. It is the tubes and fins of the radiator that dissipates heat from the system. The warmer they are the higher the watts dissipated. Slowing the flow of coolant only allows it to cool down more which is NOT what you want. If the start of the rad is 10 degrees above ambient and the end of it has fallen to 8 degrees over ambient then the rad is dissipating 20% less wattage at its outlet than at the inlet. If the flow was sped up so that the fluid did not have time to drop in temp then the same wattage is being dissipated at the outlet as the inlet.
> 
> Any time you see Marketing speak about retaining fluid longer for better performance (which is not possible without dropping flow rate) they are talking nonsense.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> This logic is a little bit strange to me. My common sense tells me the colder water can carry more heat energy... Besides 2 radiator in parallel wont slow down the flow. It will have the opposite effect on the overall loop.


Now the colder water being refered to was in response to a statement that a cooler rad dissipates less wattage .... there was no mention of block flows etc

Anyways,

Koolance flow vs dissipation data


If you lower flow rate through parallel flow then wattage is reduced. If wattage per C is reduced the water loop must be warmer to remove the same system heat.
It will not be better.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I love the core maximisation and unique mounting system of these but man I wish they would make a flattened tube version somehow.
> Would totally get them if they worked a little better.
> 
> How does their internal flow work? Doesn't seem like it could be U flow. Is it front to back or all in line or something?


Yep - dual pass, Front to Back (or back to front







) with 7 tubes in Parallel each pass for the Radical 2.
Don't get too excited about the mounting system on the Radical 2, I hate it







Way too fiddly,

The AMS is another beast altogether as far as flow is concerned....
Quad Pass with Quintuple Parallel tubes


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I didn't say water didn't carry energy. I said *Cold Water doesn't carry energy*, as in it doesn't carry more energy simply being cold as in
> "My common sense tells me the colder water can carry more heat energy"
> 
> Not sure why that part is the part addressed but anyway, The thought experiments do show the CPU would be cooled worse by parallel rads simply because they radiate less wattage and less wattage means higher delta which means higher water temp which means higher CPU temp.
> 
> Yes the flow returns to normal after being split at the parallel rads, it wasn't implied to be anything else. The mentioning of block flow was only to illustrate that they are two sides of the one coin.
> 
> You are still focusing on passes, but how about this.
> Two loops one with serial rads and one with parallel
> The numbers are exhagerated for ease of use but accurately reflect the *differences you see with series vs parallel temp change*
> 
> The rads dissipate 500W at 10C.
> In series the first rad drops the coolant by 1C and the second by 0.9C for an 8.1C oulet temp
> The parallel rads with half the flow rate drop the coolant by double what the first series rad does so 2C for an 8C outlet.
> That means that the series rads are dissipating an average of 50X9.5 and 50X8.55 for 475 + 427.5
> 902.5W
> The parallel rads each dissipate an average of 50x9 for 450X2
> 900W
> 
> Just with that simple math the series rads dissipate slightly more wattage, not less.
> Now what if the rads were not directly connected to each other but instead had heat producing components between them. Then the wattage is even higher.


You can't just make up any number you want then say there that proves it. But by your own experiment you are saying that the outlet of the series rads will be 8.1 Celsius and the outlet for the parallel rads will be 8C. I don't know what this 50x9 business or 450x2 business is, and it doesn't matter if the water is coming out colder it means the rad dissipated more heat.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> You can't just make up any number you want then say there that proves it. But by your own experiment you are saying that the outlet of the series rads will be 8.1 Celsius and the outlet for the parallel rads will be 8C. I don't know what this 50x9 business or 450x2 business is, and it doesn't matter if the water is coming out colder it means the rad dissipated more heat.


The numbers used are there for a very good reason. The rad dissipates 500W at 10C ... so 1C is 50W. The average of the inlet out and outlet temp gives us the 9.5x50 etc for the watts dissipated.
The numbers are made up essentially but their *relationship to each other* is not eg,
The first series rad cools 1C so 1/10 of 10C so the second rad will cool 1/10 of 9C ... 0.9C
The halved flow rate doubles the temp drop for the parallel rads for 2C

Its all really quite basic, and just uses a 10C water supply to illustrate the difference in wattage dissipated with round numbers for ease.
In a real loop the coolant will not stay at that nice round 10C number, the system that dissipates less wattage per degree C will have to rise to a higher temp than the other.

Saying the water came out colder means more heat dissipated demonstrates this is probably a bit over your head. The temp change of the fluid is heavily dependant on the flow rate.

There is loads of test data like I linked that shows that cutting rad flow rate in half drops the wattage dissipated. This whole exercise was just an attempt to demonstrate it makes sense logically but clearly that has failed.
By all means provide something to refute it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I didn't say water didn't carry energy. I said *Cold Water doesn't carry energy*, as in it doesn't carry more energy simply being cold as in
> "My common sense tells me the colder water can carry more heat energy"
> 
> Not sure why that part is the part addressed but anyway, The thought experiments do show the CPU would be cooled worse by parallel rads simply because they radiate less wattage and less wattage means higher delta which means higher water temp which means higher CPU temp.
> 
> Yes the flow returns to normal after being split at the parallel rads, it wasn't implied to be anything else. The mentioning of block flow was only to illustrate that they are two sides of the one coin.
> 
> You are still focusing on passes, but how about this.
> Two loops one with serial rads and one with parallel
> The numbers are exhagerated for ease of use but accurately reflect the *differences you see with series vs parallel temp change*
> 
> The rads dissipate 500W at 10C.
> In series the first rad drops the coolant by 1C and the second by 0.9C for an 8.1C oulet temp
> The parallel rads with half the flow rate drop the coolant by double what the first series rad does so 2C for an 8C outlet.
> That means that the series rads are dissipating an average of 50X9.5 and 50X8.55 for 475 + 427.5
> 902.5W
> The parallel rads each dissipate an average of 50x9 for 450X2
> 900W
> 
> Just with that simple math the series rads dissipate slightly more wattage, not less.
> Now what if the rads were not directly connected to each other but instead had heat producing components between them. Then the wattage is even higher.
> 
> 
> 
> You can't just make up any number you want then say there that proves it. But by your own experiment you are saying that the outlet of the series rads will be 8.1 Celsius and the outlet for the parallel rads will be 8C. I don't know what this 50x9 business or 450x2 business is, and it doesn't matter if the water is coming out colder it means the rad dissipated more heat.
Click to expand...

You dont understand the math yet still argue the point?
By your logic,longer dwell time in the block would decrease temps because the water has more dwell time to pick up more heat....

It doesn't work like that.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont understand the math yet still argue the point?
> By your logic,longer dwell time in the block would decrease temps because the water has more dwell time to pick up more heat....
> 
> It doesn't work like that.


I'm arguing that the numbers are made up and therefore meaningless. I really have no idea which cools better but I'm not just going accept a blanket statement that it doesn't or numbers which I have no idea of what they are suppose to represent as proof. And yes the same logic as relates to blocks seems sound enough. Aren't the best cooling blocks the most restrictive and therefore the ones that reduce flow the most?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont understand the math yet still argue the point?
> By your logic,longer dwell time in the block would decrease temps because the water has more dwell time to pick up more heat....
> 
> It doesn't work like that.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm arguing that the numbers are made up and therefore meaningless. I really have no idea which cools better but I'm not just going accept a blanket statement that it doesn't or numbers which I have no idea of what they are suppose to represent as proof. And yes the same logic as relates to blocks seems sound enough. Aren't the best cooling blocks the most restrictive and therefore the ones that reduce flow the most?
Click to expand...

Let me get this straight.
You don't understand the math nor the physics involved but still claim its incorrect? Are you serious? You have no understanding and still you refute evidence placed in your lap because you dont understand it?

Loving your ignorance here.....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont understand the math yet still argue the point?
> By your logic,longer dwell time in the block would decrease temps because the water has more dwell time to pick up more heat....
> 
> It doesn't work like that.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm arguing that the numbers are made up and therefore meaningless. I really have no idea which cools better but I'm not just going accept a blanket statement that it doesn't or numbers which I have no idea of what they are suppose to represent as proof. And yes the same logic as relates to blocks seems sound enough. Aren't the best cooling blocks the most restrictive and therefore the ones that reduce flow the most?
Click to expand...

More restrictive blocks do not perform better because they reduce flow more. They tend to perform better because they have designs which have increased surface area, cause more turbulence and reduce laminar flow so that more of the fluid passing through comes in contact with the surface of the block.

A higher flow rate will always cool better.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/210844-Flow-Rate-Impact-in-Water-Cooling-%28Summary%29


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is loads of test data like I linked that shows that cutting rad flow rate in half drops the wattage dissipated. This whole exercise was just an attempt to demonstrate it makes sense logically but clearly that has failed.


At low load maybe But if you start some brutal test/game that generates tons of heat you will see the difference... Bigger difference in the delta of the in and outgoing water means that it dissipated more heat...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is loads of test data like I linked that shows that cutting rad flow rate in half drops the wattage dissipated. This whole exercise was just an attempt to demonstrate it makes sense logically but clearly that has failed.
> 
> 
> 
> At low load maybe But if you start some brutal test/game that generates tons of heat you will see the difference... Bigger difference in the delta of the in and outgoing water means that it dissipated more heat...
Click to expand...

Which also applies to serial rads...

Physics doesn't magically change when load increases.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> At low load maybe But if you start some brutal test/game that generates tons of heat you will see the difference... Bigger difference in the delta of the in and outgoing water means that it dissipated more heat...


Sure, more watts in means more watts have to come out, so water, core, etc temps all rise.
The efficiency of the rad does not change. The C/W figure stays the same and a rad with halfish flow rate will have a higher figure meaning higher coolant temps.


----------



## ozzy1925

do you guys think this water flow is good for a single aquaero d5 usb pump connected directly to the psu or it should be more?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Looks normal to me.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> *"Theoretically"*
> 
> Could I run 99.8% Isopropyl Alcohol in a loop? And/Or submerse my computer in 99.8% Isopropyl Alcohol?


That is a very valid question that I have actually never asked myself. The question would be (To Me) does the isopropl alcohol break down after X amount of time? And if it does break down in a loop after some time will it have an adverse effect on the loop? Will isopropl alcohol eat through tubing?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> do you guys think this water flow is good for a single aquaero d5 usb pump connected directly to the psu or it should be more?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You could have excellent temps with an even slower flow than that!









The Cautious ONe


----------



## Wrecker66

hi!
made this little Frankenstein from parts i bought in last six monts. Most parts for watercooling are bought used becouse this is my first time building custom loop. still got lot to learn, buy and explor before i put everything in the case

















config is:
3770k OC 4.2
z77x up7 motherboard
16gb corsair ram
msi 295x with koolance block and ek backplate
powercolor lcs 290x
corsair rm1000 PS


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The numbers used are there for a very good reason. The rad dissipates 500W at 10C ... so 1C is 50W. The average of the inlet out and outlet temp gives us the 9.5x50 etc for the watts dissipated.
> The numbers are made up essentially but their *relationship to each other* is not eg,
> The first series rad cools 1C so 1/10 of 10C so the second rad will cool 1/10 of 9C ... 0.9C
> The halved flow rate doubles the temp drop for the parallel rads for 2C
> 
> Its all really quite basic, and just uses a 10C water supply to illustrate the difference in wattage dissipated with round numbers for ease.
> In a real loop the coolant will not stay at that nice round 10C number, the system that dissipates less wattage per degree C will have to rise to a higher temp than the other.
> 
> *Saying the water came out colder means more heat dissipated demonstrates this is probably a bit over your head. The temp change of the fluid is heavily dependant on the flow rate.
> *
> There is loads of test data like I linked that shows that cutting rad flow rate in half drops the wattage dissipated. This whole exercise was just an attempt to demonstrate it makes sense logically but clearly that has failed.
> By all means provide something to refute it.


I guess it is just too over my head. The flow returns to normal once the two lines are reconnected and temperature of the water in those lines is lower than it would be in serial yet somehow more heat was dissipated from the hotter water than the colder water? That just doesn't make any sense to me. I'll check out the link you posted with the koolance graph though. Just realized that is a link.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Let me get this straight.
> You don't understand the math nor the physics involved but still claim its incorrect? Are you serious? You have no understanding and still you refute evidence placed in your lap because you dont understand it?
> 
> Loving your ignorance here.....


Can't miss an opportunity to call someone stupid I see. I will readily admit I do not understand the math when it is some unlabeled numbers that I have no I idea what they refer to. How could I understand that?

Back to the blocks you brought up. Parallel flow does work well for blocks. Many people connect their GPU's using parallel flow. In both the case of the rad and the block you are trying to reduce the delta between the water and the die, or the water and the rad. So why does it work well for GPU block but poorly for rads?


----------



## wermad

cpu parallel flow is such a pain to purge air....I went to series quickly after this:


----------



## emsj86

Adding. Ek fc 780 to gpu block and a 3 slot series ek exi sli terminal. Does it matter which way is the inlet and out. Meaning can u have the inlet on the bottom port (bottom gpu) and the out on the top (top gpu) as it will look cleaner that way. Also. Alittle ot but figure I ask. I'm on the fence paint the fan blades blue or leave them be.


----------



## wermad

parallel? just use the opposite port and top/bottom position don't matter.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> cpu parallel flow is such a pain to purge air....I went to series quickly after this:


What kind of temps did you get on the CPU Werm?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> parallel? just use the opposite port and top/bottom position don't matter.


It is not Parallel it will be in series. And the ek sli plexi terminal has a port up top and a lot that comes out the right side of the bottom. I want to use the bottom port as the inlet and top as the outlet to the top rad than to cpu as it looks better but wasn't sure if it matter or not. Preparing my rig for 1440p 144hz


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What kind of temps did you get on the CPU Werm?


It was crappy at first, probably ~5-8c higher but that's due to the large pocket of air trapped in cpu block. I guess w/ horizontal layout and the quad gpu output flow, the air was just trapped in there. I had to get the case on its side to push most of it out. In the end, it wasn't that appealing to me and I switched to series (switched to quad 690s as well). It looks cool but not too practical vs the tried and true methods imho.

edit: cpu was 2700k @ stock but oc'd after fixing the loop to 4.8. It did see 5.0 and 5.1 on some occasions.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It is not Parallel it will be in series. And the ek sli plexi terminal has a port up top and a lot that comes out the right side of the bottom. I want to use the bottom port as the inlet and top as the outlet to the top rad than to cpu as it looks better but wasn't sure if it matter or not. Preparing my rig for 1440p 144hz


My bad









This one?



You can come in on the top right and exit either bottom right. Or vice-versa.

I think the left port is not meant for intake/output as it was necessary to mill the channel for water flow.

edit: here's a good illustration of parallel and series:


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I guess it is just too over my head. The flow returns to normal once the two lines are reconnected and temperature of the water in those lines is lower than it would be in serial yet somehow more heat was dissipated from the hotter water than the colder water? That just doesn't make any sense to me. I'll check out the link you posted with the koolance graph though. Just realized that is a link.


C'mon mate. The numbers were explained and repeatedly described as being exaggerated and for illustrative purposes only but the response we get is "they're imaginary numbers so its not real"

The purpose of simplified rad theory is just as a different way to understand how these things work beyond the "water stays in the rad longer" argument where this started. Just being critical without providing any reasoned counter is super annoying. All we got was single parts picked out and twisted so don't expect much in return.

I agree that strictly speaking the difference in outlet temps mentioned would normally mean that the parallel rad setup did cool more watts. The thing to remember is this is simplified. In actualality the parallel rads will not cool exactly twice what the first serial rad did. The drop in flow means a slight drop in wattage so that the outlet temp would be higher than 8C exactly. Likely the same 8.1C for the same reason ... the second half of the parallel rads is cooler, just like the second rad.

Now, you mention that parallel GPU's work well so why shouldn't radiators. Firstly the original assertion was that parallel rads will not be better. With GPU's the case can be a choice between both being a couple degrees warmer in parallel vs just the second one being warmer in series. ... So actually very similar to what we have been trying to demonstrate with the rads. Parallel not better primarily and likely slightly worse.
In the case of GPU's they can be slightly warmer and it really doesn't matter, it is only affecting them. For rads though, them being warmer means the coolant being warmer, means all temps being warmer. That might not be a show stopper problem either. It is just not better.

By all means stick with the hold the water in the rad longer theory though. Hell, just stop flow completely and it'll be super cool.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That is a very valid question that I have actually never asked myself. The question would be (To Me) does the isopropl alcohol break down after X amount of time? And if it does break down in a loop after some time will it have an adverse effect on the loop? Will isopropl alcohol eat through tubing?


From what I understand, Isopropyl alcohol oxidizes into acetone; however it needs an oxidizing agent. I believe the alcohol would want to eat through most tubing, but i know for sure it doesn't eat polycarbonate, so hard-line tubing would be in order (but not acrylic!).

Also this might be a limiting factor...

Flash point
Open cup: 11.7 °C (53.1 °F)
Closed cup: 13 °C (55 °F)


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> From what I understand, Isopropyl alcohol oxidizes into acetone; however it needs an oxidizing agent. I believe the alcohol would want to eat through most tubing, but i know for sure it doesn't eat polycarbonate, so hard-line tubing would be in order (but not acrylic!).
> 
> Also this might be a limiting factor...
> 
> Flash point
> Open cup: 11.7 °C (53.1 °F)
> Closed cup: 13 °C (55 °F)


Is isopropyl alcohol safe for giving your loop a cleaning though? By that I mean pouring some in the res with some amount of water and pumping it around for a few hours then draining it.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Is isopropyl alcohol safe for giving your loop a cleaning though? By that I mean pouring some in the res with some amount of water and pumping it around for a few hours then draining it.


Don't quote me, but it should be fine.


----------



## Hambone07si

Whats up wermad? Been a while









Just put my current system fully on water again after getting my 2nd 780ti. Air was just too hot. 85c load temps and then throttling. I was going to order 2 water blocks but come to find out the whole Frozencpu thing. So I just went to microcenter 10min from me and bought the G10's and H55's for $100 per gpu. Installed and tested and tweaked to my liking and now I have a great setup.

Idle temps 21c , Load temps benching 45c, Load temps gaming 42-43c and nice and quiet. Can't believe the load temps with this setup compared to full custom loop like I normally do. I can't complain one bit!!


----------



## wermad

What up!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Is isopropyl alcohol safe for giving your loop a cleaning though? By that I mean pouring some in the res with some amount of water and pumping it around for a few hours then draining it.


If you have any acrylic at all in your loop(most common would be reservoir), I would not use Isopropyl at all, even diluted, since it damages acrylic


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> If you have any acrylic at all in your loop(most common would be reservoir), I would not use Isopropyl at all, even diluted, since it damages acrylic


Okay thanks. Good to know. What would be a safe household chemical to clean with. I know vinegar gets suggested a lot for cleaning rads, but would that be safe running through the whole loop. Looking for a lazy man solution for a decent cleaning without complete dis-assembly .


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Whats up wermad? Been a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put my current system fully on water again after getting my 2nd 780ti. Air was just too hot. 85c load temps and then throttling. I was going to order 2 water blocks but come to find out the whole Frozencpu thing. So I just went to microcenter 10min from me and bought the G10's and H55's for $100 per gpu. Installed and tested and tweaked to my liking and now I have a great setup.
> 
> Idle temps 21c , Load temps benching 45c, Load temps gaming 42-43c and nice and quiet. Can't believe the load temps with this setup compared to full custom loop like I normally do. I can't complain one bit!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice AIO setup.







I had the Artic Accelero hybrid before I switched over to custom loop, and it worked awesome. Installed it on several cards over the years, but it wasn't nearly as pretty as those NZXT brackets.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> If you have any acrylic at all in your loop(most common would be reservoir), I would not use Isopropyl at all, even diluted, since it damages acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> Okay thanks. Good to know. What would be a safe household chemical to clean with. I know vinegar gets suggested a lot for cleaning rads, but would that be safe running through the whole loop. Looking for a lazy man solution for a decent cleaning without complete dis-assembly .
Click to expand...

Sadly,there are no substitutes for hand cleaning,there is no real 'lazy way' of doing it.

All you can do is minimize the contaminants for a longer living loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Whats up wermad? Been a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put my current system fully on water again after getting my 2nd 780ti. Air was just too hot. 85c load temps and then throttling. I was going to order 2 water blocks but come to find out the whole Frozencpu thing. So I just went to microcenter 10min from me and bought the G10's and H55's for $100 per gpu. Installed and tested and tweaked to my liking and now I have a great setup.
> 
> Idle temps 21c , Load temps benching 45c, Load temps gaming 42-43c and nice and quiet. Can't believe the load temps with this setup compared to full custom loop like I normally do. I can't complain one bit!!


This is the first and only time I have seen AIO's actually look like they belong,Kudos.

What case is that? 540?


----------



## bundymania

First package for my TT X9 "Yeti lives" project has arrived !


















http://community.thermaltake.com/index.php?/topic/1438-germany-andy-weber-bundymania/


----------



## wermad

Don't forgot our little club


----------



## snef

[/url]

[/url]


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly,there are no substitutes for hand cleaning,there is no real 'lazy way' of doing it.
> 
> All you can do is minimize the contaminants for a longer living loop.
> This is the first and only time I have seen AIO's actually look like they belong,Kudos.
> 
> What case is that? 540?


Thanks man!! Yeah, was never really a big fan of AIO's myself either. Tried the H110 on my 4790k and it did a great job at my max overclock of what the chip could do no matter what. Max temps were around 78-80c on hottest core. I then pulled that off and put my Quad double thick rad with push/pull and that dropped my temps to 70-72c at the same max overclock, and trying to go even further got me no where so I just went back to the H110 since it fits perfectly on the top of my 540 air case and is a lot quieter. Then seen the Kraken G10's and seen people getting load temps of around 55c and thought that wasn't to bad to give them a try. I did and tested and tweaked over the past few days and now the pc is looking the way it does in that picture and my load temps only max out at 45c both cards with benchmarks, 42-43c gaming and those are with ambient temp of 68-69 degrees. That is VERY acceptable in my book. I've had custom loops many times and my gpu's would be around 38-45c anyways, so the AIO's are doing a good job after dialing them in.

The exhaust fan that has white led's is coming out today after work once I stop at Microcenter on my way home and then it will have a matching Corsair SP140mm static with red led's. Then this build is pretty much done.


----------



## gman4097

My rig.


----------



## gman4097

Better pic, tubes fine, I'm changing it out to acrylic hard tube instead. So it'll look cleaner. There's 2 separate loops and 450s pumps,and rads, etc. Still got to install my ram dims and ram waterblocks. Working on 2 r9 290 waterblocks also. Not bad 1st time water build. Koolonce and ek


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thats much tube for a CPU loop....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats much tube for a CPU loop....


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats much tube for a CPU loop....


You are a mean man B


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You are a mean man B


He was nice on his comment on my AIO setup


----------



## LandonAaron

For my icemodz extension cables in. They do a good job of shortening the cables on one side for the 24 pin cables so they will bend correctly, but not on the pcie cables. I guess cause not everyone bends that cable b in same direction or maybe some some gpus have the plug upside down?

Either way the end result is hump back cable...


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats much tube for a CPU loop....


don't be such a noob, it's clearly a CPU *AND VRM* loop


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You are a mean man B


It's just criticism to improve his rig


----------



## warpedRazor

hi people

here is my first build and wc

xspc d5 pwm
primochill 240mm ctr phase ii
masterklear 16/10 tubing uv blue
monsoon compression blue
xspc raystorm block
xspc 240mm rad
cheap fans temp







hope you like my first try

david


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gman4097*
> 
> Better pic, tubes fine, I'm changing it out to acrylic hard tube instead. So it'll look cleaner. There's 2 separate loops and pumps,and rads, etc.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why separate loops for the VRM and CPU?


----------



## everclearhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpedRazor*
> 
> hi people
> 
> here is my first build and wc
> 
> xspc d5 pwm
> primochill 240mm ctr phase ii
> masterklear 16/10 tubing uv blue
> monsoon compression blue
> xspc raystorm block
> xspc ex240mm rad
> cheap fans temp
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you like my first try
> 
> david


Definitely a good start, keep it up


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpedRazor*
> 
> hi people
> 
> here is my first build and wc
> 
> xspc d5 pwm
> primochill 240mm ctr phase ii
> masterklear 16/10 tubing uv blue
> monsoon compression blue
> xspc raystorm block
> xspc 240mm rad
> cheap fans temp
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you like my first try
> 
> david


Looks to be a pretty bad kink on the left tube on the CPU block


----------



## gman4097

I figured I would see better oc temps with separate loops, and I have.but when I add my ram waterblocks to 1 loop and my r9's to another, I'll do a lil bit of investigating on which blocks run better together far as temps. For instance cpu loop with r9's or ram or mobo loop with r9's or ram. I know there will be a difference with the loop combos but I want the temps low as possible. I'm not no expert though. Just trial and error so far


----------



## Devildog83

Got the back-plate done. Now I just need to get it in the loop.


----------



## warpedRazor

hope that helps showing up close . hope its not to kinked



cheers
david


----------



## gman4097

My specs
i74790k ocd to 4.6 but I got a stable 5ghz saved profile.
Rog maximus vi extreme
corsair dominator platinum 16gb 1866 4-4gb sticks
ek m6e full mobo waterblocks
ek hf cpu block
2 ek monarch x2 blocks not installed
4 ek dominator ram dimms not installed
2 koolance 450s pumps
koolace rp-452x2 reservoir
280mm rad koolance
240mm rad koolance
1/2 id x 3/4od primo chill tubing
lamptron fc9 fan controller
2 koolance 12v-24v pump controllers
evga supernova g2 1300w
2 sapphire tri-x r9 290's
razer deathstalker ultimate
cyborg rat 9 mouse
razer tartarus pad
I might be forgetting a few things


----------



## DarthBaggins

It seems with the 4790k's 4.6 is it's happy clock vs I can get 5.0+ (5.0 was at 1.338 too







as my 4.6 sits comfy at 1.225) but definitely would think you'd see better numbers on a cpu only loop vs mixing it w/ the other components


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpedRazor*
> 
> hope that helps showing up close . hope its not to kinked
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers
> david


Must have just been the angle and glare. It looks fine in that pic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats much tube for a CPU loop....
> 
> 
> 
> don't be such a noob, it's clearly a CPU *AND VRM* loop
Click to expand...

Because it makes all the difference.......


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Looks normal to me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That is a very valid question that I have actually never asked myself. The question would be (To Me) does the isopropl alcohol break down after X amount of time? And if it does break down in a loop after some time will it have an adverse effect on the loop? Will isopropl alcohol eat through tubing?
> You could have excellent temps with an even slower flow than that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious ONe


thanks guys so you say its as fast as the vario version set to 5?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks guys so you say its as fast as the vario version set to 5?


I cannot comment on that. Although numerous test have been done at Skinneelabs

The Cautious ONe.

There is a great amount of info there.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Talking about a lot of tubing for only CPU and VRM ... well, I don't care.









Loop will be filled with Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow, fan-rings will be painted yellow, fans in front probably all black (as well as the steel-plates). Head over to my build log to see more.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talking about a lot of tubing for only CPU and VRM ... well, I don't care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop will be filled with Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow, fan-rings will be painted yellow, fans in front probably all black (as well as the steel-plates). Head over to my build log to see more.


Only one of those drain valves will be fully functional, Yes?

One won't be at the lowest point of the loop?

The Cautious ONe


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Only one of those drain valves will be fully functional, Yes?
> 
> One won't be at the lowest point of the loop?
> 
> The Cautious ONe


None of the drain valves will be at the lowest point of the loop, might end up using a few QD3's in the bottom somewhere to make draining easier. It will probably drain the XTX 480 and most of the XTC 420 (which holds most of the coolant), then I will probably use QD3's to "seal" of the bottom apartment so that I can drag out everything with coolant still in it (six screws to get the radiators out + four screws for the pumps). Far from the best option, but those EK-PE 480s only have two ports, could of course use one drain on each pump ... but ... yes, I have to see how I do it. I like the look of the drain-valves where they are now.







Not very functional, but ... if I use QD3's in the bottom department it does not really matter (I am sure you know that if you have a few extra you could use those as drains as well).


----------



## emsj86

When you guys oc your Gpus and bios hack/nvflash. Do you do them one at a time or can you do them hooked up at the same time say in sli. I asked on the gpu owners (780) club but haven't heard back figure I ask the homies


----------



## emsj86

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> [/url]
> 
> [/url]





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I've got to say this is very nice. So clean. Wish I had the material or know how to print out the graphics for gpu back plates. Sadly I do not.


----------



## Ceadderman

Printed on one sided decals, I believe.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

They came in!

TCO


----------



## cennis

Hi guys, i know this is not the right place but i hope to get advice from the experts here

My rig has been fine up until today, and it started turning off randomly.

No BSOD or freeze, just turns off and restarts.

My build for reference : http://www.overclock.net/t/1548834/ft03-mini-mod-with-295x2-fully-water-cooled-cooled-by-2x120mm-2x180mm-mod-of-the-month-is-live-vote-for-me

The length of time it stay on is anywhere from a few seconds(before windows) or many minutes, running prime95.

When i lay my case flat it always shuts off in 1 second, forming a reboot loop. when standing upright, time varies.

The debug code on my ASUS MAXIMUS VI IMPACT motherboard just shows 00 the moment before it shuts down.

For your reference, if the cpu power is unplugged (or cpu not installed), it will report 00 but will NOT reboot.

I have a feeling the board is shorted somewhere, but do not want to breadboard it since i will have to dismantle the loop

I tried pulling the cables out of the case so i can get a look inside.

Is the cpu dying or is it just shorted somewhere?

the system has been running a few weeks now with no problems.

checked pcie connectors


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> Hi guys, i know this is not the right place but i hope to get advice from the experts here
> 
> My rig has been fine up until today, and it started turning off randomly.
> 
> No BSOD or freeze, just turns off and restarts.
> 
> My build for reference : http://www.overclock.net/t/1548834/ft03-mini-mod-with-295x2-fully-water-cooled-cooled-by-2x120mm-2x180mm-mod-of-the-month-is-live-vote-for-me
> 
> The length of time it stay on is anywhere from a few seconds(before windows) or many minutes, running prime95.
> 
> When i lay my case flat it always shuts off in 1 second, forming a reboot loop. when standing upright, time varies.
> 
> The debug code on my ASUS MAXIMUS VI IMPACT motherboard just shows 00 the moment before it shuts down.
> 
> For your reference, if the cpu power is unplugged (or cpu not installed), it will report 00 but will NOT reboot.
> 
> I have a feeling the board is shorted somewhere, but do not want to breadboard it since i will have to dismantle the loop
> 
> I tried pulling the cables out of the case so i can get a look inside.
> 
> Is the cpu dying or is it just shorted somewhere?
> 
> the system has been running a few weeks now with no problems.
> 
> checked pcie connectors


You Need to Default Setting and Run Prime to See if is an unstable overclock. Please Refer to the Thread Once you elminate the Possible problem of a faulty overclock, then move forward to another possible problem.

EDIT: Im sorry. Default to factory settings, then try to run prime (If you really need to do that) and drop in the thread above that I linked and ask around also.

The Cautious One

Also 00 is correct in thinking it is the CPU. Do you have time to monitor temps while the cpu is on? If the pump went out in the loop you could be overheating and CPU shuting down to save itself.


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> Hi guys, i know this is not the right place but i hope to get advice from the experts here
> 
> My rig has been fine up until today, and it started turning off randomly.
> 
> No BSOD or freeze, just turns off and restarts.
> 
> My build for reference : http://www.overclock.net/t/1548834/ft03-mini-mod-with-295x2-fully-water-cooled-cooled-by-2x120mm-2x180mm-mod-of-the-month-is-live-vote-for-me
> 
> The length of time it stay on is anywhere from a few seconds(before windows) or many minutes, running prime95.
> 
> When i lay my case flat it always shuts off in 1 second, forming a reboot loop. when standing upright, time varies.
> 
> The debug code on my ASUS MAXIMUS VI IMPACT motherboard just shows 00 the moment before it shuts down.
> 
> For your reference, if the cpu power is unplugged (or cpu not installed), it will report 00 but will NOT reboot.
> 
> I have a feeling the board is shorted somewhere, but do not want to breadboard it since i will have to dismantle the loop
> 
> I tried pulling the cables out of the case so i can get a look inside.
> 
> Is the cpu dying or is it just shorted somewhere?
> 
> the system has been running a few weeks now with no problems.
> 
> checked pcie connectors


Hate to say it, but if moving your case changes the behavior, you're better of dismantling everything and inspecting each part before doing anything else. Right now you have a chance to save your gear, if you keep hard failing it, eventually it's going to not come back....

You can start with a leak test. Kill all power to the MB and just fire up the pump, TCO has a very good point, if your pump is not working you could be hitting max temp and shutting down.

Remove all parts including the CPU and MB, check for bent pins, look for corrosion. Once everything has been removed, inspected and verified visually, put the CPU and one RAM stick back in, start from there and install one component at a time. It sounds like you may have something that has fallen behind the MB, or you had a drop from the loop land on something (Or have a current leak that is causing random fits).


----------



## cennis

i have resetted to default already, it is not the overclock but it could be the cpu dying due to overclock before.

but it feels like it may not be the case since some times it runs prime on stock fine for awhile but sometimes reboot loop
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Need to Default Setting and Run Prime to See if is an unstable overclock. Please Refer to the Thread Once you elminate the Possible problem of a faulty overclock, then move forward to another possible problem.
> 
> EDIT: Im sorry. Default to factory settings, then try to run prime (If you really need to do that) and drop in the thread above that I linked and ask around also.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> Also 00 is correct in thinking it is the CPU. Do you have time to monitor temps while the cpu is on? If the pump went out in the loop you could be overheating and CPU shuting down to save itself.


----------



## Wirerat

Cable box in sig for specs.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Cable box in sig for specs.


Nice. Love the matte black hoses. What brand did you get?


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When you guys oc your Gpus and bios hack/nvflash. Do you do them one at a time or can you do them hooked up at the same time say in sli. I asked on the gpu owners (780) club but haven't heard back figure I ask the homies


Yes, you can have multiple GPU's hooked up. After you've flashed the first GPU, Nvflash would automatically ask you if you want to flash the second GPU. I don't know if this happens when you have GPU's from different manufacturers (say... ASUS, and MSI), but if it does, select "N" (as in No), and load up the modified BIOS for the second GPU, then enter the right command to flash only GPU 2.

If you press help, a lot of commands will show up, so you can use that as a guide.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Nice. Love the matte black hoses. What brand did you get?


EK ZMT tubing. Only comes in 3/8 by 5/8.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> They came in!
> 
> TCO


Schweetz







, which brand is that?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Schweetz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , which brand is that?


feels like primochill old ghost fittings.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Schweetz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , which brand is that?


BItspower C47s!!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> feels like primochill old ghost fittings.


Never Primochill.

The Cautious One

From my DDC pumps to Passthrough Fittings in Midplate it will be an extremely Tight Fit



(Took the Photo late last night, excuse the Darkness)

And To anyone who wants to Follow my Page on FB

Build Log is in the Siggy (It's about to get Real Nice, Have been waiting on the fittings to be in stock for 2 weeks)


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> BItspower C47s!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never Primochill.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> From my DDC pumps to Passthrough Fittings in Midplate it will be an extremely Tight Fit
> 
> 
> 
> (Took the Photo late last night, excuse the Darkness)


i just noticed the double Orings. and man...i felt like i insulted you,. sorry.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i just noticed the double Orings. and man...i felt like i insulted you,. sorry.


No Please







It's all good Sir! I appreciate the comment in the first place. I wouldn't have known what they were 6 months ago anyway. The Community has taught me valuable knowledge that can never be forgotten.

My Lack of Photo skills I am sure plays a huge part as well...









The Cautious One


----------



## emsj86

Freshly installed waiting for the sli bridge. But will pull my old 780 out today out this in bios hack and oc it. Than once the plexi sli bridge comes and is polished. I will (hold on I'm tearing up jk) become a true ocn member with sli watercooled oc Gpus (note 980 box but it's a 780) I didnt notice when i did my first gpu block on my first 780, but is it normal for the pcb to bend alittle after all the screws our tighten down?


----------



## wermad

I wanted to say rocket-science...but I think they don't make them in white







(I think).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I wanted to say rocket-science...but I think they don't make them in white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I think).


AFAIK They don't make them in white.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## wermad

The knurled design is a bit more tightly packed on the bp's. We'll from my observations.


----------



## emsj86

New 780 installed. Waiting on sli bridge from ek and backplate. But for the time being nvflash ing the new card preparing for my first ever sli.







. Also a look at my window mod.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The knurled design is a bit more tightly packed on the bp's. We'll from my observations.


I have briefly thought about the Rocket Science but I thought that the cost was a little to high compared to buying the Pairs of C47s through Performance.

The Cautious One


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When you guys oc your Gpus and bios hack/nvflash. Do you do them one at a time or can you do them hooked up at the same time say in sli. I asked on the gpu owners (780) club but haven't heard back figure I ask the homies


I did my 650ti Boosts while still in SLI. I don't recall the nvflash commands, but you specify which card the BIOS update goes to.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Took the Photo late last night, excuse the Darkness)


Darkness. No parents.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have briefly thought about the Rocket Science but I thought that the cost was a little to high compared to buying the Pairs of C47s through Performance.
> 
> The Cautious One


True that. In my case, I have easy and quick access to clear tube so the extra cost for rs can be passed to the local source of clear tube. But, I have no desire to go back and do hard tube anytime soon







.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> True that. In my case, I have easy and quick access to clear tube so the extra cost for rs can be passed to the local source of clear tube. But, I have no desire to go back and do hard tube anytime soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


What?? No Hard Tube? That's madness.... although Your current build is more about performance (and you swap your GPU's more than I change my Boxers







)

The Cautious ONe


----------



## wermad




----------



## Wolfsbora

THE wermad doesn't do hard tube. The wermad does what wermad wants and makes it look good in the process.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What?? No Hard Tube? That's madness.... although Your current build is more about performance (and you swap your GPU's more than I change my Boxers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Rocketscience fittings sells 12 fittings for 96 AUD which is like 75$ and charge like 11$ for shipping..so total 86$ fort 12 fittings is like 7$ a piece.. i think that's pretty decent.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Rocketscience fittings sells 12 fittings for 96 AUD which is like 75$ and charge like 11$ for shipping..so total 86$ fort 12 fittings is like 7$ a piece.. i think that's pretty decent.


Correct, Although A Pair of Bits C47s are 11.99 at 27 Pairs = 323.73 + a 5.5% Discount To cover 20.00 Of Shipping.

If RS are 13.99 (Theoretically) at 27 Pairs = 363.74 (Discount? )

The Cautious One

EDIT: And they don't make RS in white.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> THE wermad doesn't do hard tube. The wermad does what wermad wants and makes it look good in the process.


I just don't have the patience to go through that again. Enjoying my rig atm gaming in 4k. Rather game then fiddle with rig to be honest.


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just don't have the patience to go through that again. Enjoying my rig atm gaming in 4k. Rather game then fiddle with rig to be honest.


I can't help it..... My rig is sitting there all pretty in white (see sig) and I'm getting ready to tear it all up and go for performance rather than looks.... I've barely even gamed on this new system and I'm already working on active cooling for the CPU. BUT, it's a helluva fun project!!!

Funny story, my wife had an inspector visit the house yesterday, as he was passing by the office he glanced in, and stopped in his tracks. He turned to my wife with an awed expression on his face and said "Is *that* what the inside of a computer looks like?!!!"

My wife said he was down on his hands and knees (my computer sits on the floor atm) with is face practically pressed against the display window "Oh man this is so COOL!"









Makes you feel good when a complete stranger just stops what they are doing to talk about your computer!


----------



## wermad

I felt like that initially. But after so much down time from prior updates, I'm fed up. Recent update took two days. Those were my days off and would have rather enjoyed some gaming then messing with it. I guess I'm cured from the upgrade bug







( haha, don't hold me to this....may lapse







)


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay guys I am effectively stuck. I am needing 4 pieces of acrylic sheet milled. I contacted Lazerwerx and the only thing he can do is laser cut sheet. Which would be great except that I am needing u channels cut into a MB tray, a top panel machined to fit the top of my 932 cleanly and a bottom panel cut to fit the bottom and a PSU deck with Left offset for the interior. Without a mill, he can't do this. Anyone know someone on this side of the pond that can do the work? Am now on a deadline and need this build done. :mellows mi

~Ceadder


----------



## lmarklar

@Ceadderman which side of the pond...

If it is on the USA side, there's a place here in my town that might be able to help you out, I know they do custom machining.

http://ssdplastic.com/


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> I can't help it..... My rig is sitting there all pretty in white (see sig) and I'm getting ready to tear it all up and go for performance rather than looks.... I've barely even gamed on this new system and I'm already working on active cooling for the CPU. BUT, it's a helluva fun project!!!
> 
> Funny story, my wife had an inspector visit the house yesterday, as he was passing by the office he glanced in, and stopped in his tracks. He turned to my wife with an awed expression on his face and said "Is *that* what the inside of a computer looks like?!!!"
> 
> My wife said he was down on his hands and knees (my computer sits on the floor atm) with is face practically pressed against the display window "Oh man this is so COOL!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes you feel good when a complete stranger just stops what they are doing to talk about your computer!


Hehe, yeah, always had fun when visitors see my computer rigs. Even the guys in Guard unit in the computer shop I am in think my computers are wild looking.

I consider having a computer down two days not much down time since I had my main rig down for over several months with mods I was doing. Still got to re tear it down later to mod a 915F to add to my Haf X's bottom. Does not bother me, I enjoy messing with computer hardware its like a complex lego set to me.









Plus, allows me to catch up on my backlog of console games, or my backlog of books I still have sitting around I have yet to read.


----------



## Bertovzki

Who sells 10/12 PETG in 1 Meter lengths , i have been using EK HD 10/12 and it is very nice to bend , i found E22 absolutely hopeless to bend , so something as good to use as EK HD , but in 1 M lengths ?

I get nice tight 30 mm radius bends with the EK HD , but with E22 i really cant bend it at all it just folds up of got 5 M only good for the bin , anyone know anything not obvious i may be doing wrong ? , i have zero problem with EK




I did the center bends again in the bottom photo , that is them in top close up after re doing them , they were good enough , but i wanted them perfectly straight and square , after i built a new jig it was easy.


----------



## IT Diva

Been working in the background a bit to get everything I need all lined up to do a make-over on my daily driver rig . .

Coming together nicely and about to be able to start building as soon as I tear down one of the other rigs, (which gets a new Caselabs TH10A out of the deal) for some fittings and a res/pump setup.

Quick pics of the reverse atx Phantom and some new bits ready to install:





Started a build log here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1551682/double-double-ds-divas-daily-driver-do-over#post_23810727

Darlene


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Been working in the background a bit to get everything I need all lined up to do a make-over on my daily driver rig . .
> 
> Coming together nicely and about to be able to start building as soon as I tear down one of the other rigs, (which gets a new Caselabs TH10A out of the deal) for some fittings and a res/pump setup.
> 
> Quick pics of the reverse atx Phantom and some new bits ready to install:
> 
> Started a build log here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1551682/double-double-ds-divas-daily-driver-do-over#post_23810727
> 
> Darlene


Even empty that case looks sweet!









Can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay guys I am effectively stuck. I am needing 4 pieces of acrylic sheet milled. I contacted Lazerwerx and the only thing he can do is laser cut sheet. Which would be great except that I am needing u channels cut into a MB tray, a top panel machined to fit the top of my 932 cleanly and a bottom panel cut to fit the bottom and a PSU deck with Left offset for the interior. Without a mill, he can't do this. Anyone know someone on this side of the pond that can do the work? Am now on a deadline and need this build done. :mellows mi
> 
> ~Ceadder


I remember we were in the same boat the other day! I got lucky, Got my stuff laser cut this morning!
This guy can't cut metal or aluminum either though, but luckily I didn't need any.


----------



## emsj86

what is that blue back plate with the cut out over it or just blue acrylic made into a back plate. just wondering how it is set up done and mounted. looks very well done


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Been working in the background a bit to get everything I need all lined up to do a make-over on my daily driver rig . .
> 
> Coming together nicely and about to be able to start building as soon as I tear down one of the other rigs, (which gets a new Caselabs TH10A out of the deal) for some fittings and a res/pump setup.
> 
> Quick pics of the reverse atx Phantom and some new bits ready to install:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started a build log here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1551682/double-double-ds-divas-daily-driver-do-over#post_23810727
> 
> Darlene


That is a beautiful mod of the NZXT case darlene.









The same to your backplate @guitarhero23. Nice job mate


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> what is that blue back plate with the cut out over it or just blue acrylic made into a back plate. just wondering how it is set up done and mounted. looks very well done


White vinyl covering Bitspower backplate:


Thin clear acrylic (support for when gluing the O and R in geforce back in since the circles fall out of the design:


Printed on heavier photo paper to match sleeving and coolant:


1/8" White acrylic on top:


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> White vinyl covering Bitspower backplate:
> 
> 
> Thin clear acrylic (support for when gluing the O and R in geforce back in since the circles fall out of the design:
> 
> 
> Printed on heavier photo paper to match sleeving and coolant:
> 
> 
> 1/8" White acrylic on top:


Incredible work!!! You're quite the up and comer! What city is that??


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Incredible work!!! You're quite the up and comer! What city is that??


Attempting my best...

That one is.....Jakarta, Indonesia


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Attempting my best...
> 
> That one is.....Jakarta, Indonesia


Beautiful, man. Absolutely beautiful. Great work!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Attempting my best...
> 
> That one is.....Jakarta, Indonesia


EPIC Results!! That is fantastic!!

Did a Little tubing cutting tonight.




The Cautious One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay guys I am effectively stuck. I am needing 4 pieces of acrylic sheet milled. I contacted Lazerwerx and the only thing he can do is laser cut sheet. Which would be great except that I am needing u channels cut into a MB tray, a top panel machined to fit the top of my 932 cleanly and a bottom panel cut to fit the bottom and a PSU deck with Left offset for the interior. Without a mill, he can't do this. Anyone know someone on this side of the pond that can do the work? Am now on a deadline and need this build done. :mellows mi
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember we were in the same boat the other day! I got lucky, Got my stuff laser cut this morning!
> This guy can't cut metal or aluminum either though, but luckily I didn't need any.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Looks good.

Can I ask why you went with paper over a vinyl? Vinyl would of had useful water resistance if it got wet....that paper could mottle if it gets wet.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I remember we were in the same boat the other day! I got lucky, Got my stuff laser cut this morning!
> This guy can't cut metal or aluminum either though, but luckily I didn't need any.


Turned out great man!


----------



## Bertovzki

Is there anyone who can answer my question about 1 meter long tube that is not E22 ,that can be bent as easy and tight as EK HD 10 /12 , i have tried to google searched all the obvious paces like PPC's etc.. i cant find 1 meter lengths ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Is there anyone who can answer my question about 1 meter long tube that is not E22 ,that can be bent as easy and tight as EK HD 10 /12 , i have tried to google searched all the obvious paces like PPC's etc.. i cant find 1 meter lengths ?


Buy the EK tube.....?


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Buy the EK tube.....?


But EK tube does not come in an longer than 500 mm right ? EK them selves dont stock it , make it it does not exist , only 1 meter long tube i can find is E22 and it is awful to use.

I see Bitspower have 1 meter long PETG , which is what i assume EK HD must be because it is so nice to use , but Bitspower on the Performance PC's website only have 1 meter lengths in red colour , and clear is 500 mm , What ? really ? , it seems impossible to get , i thought someone on this thread might know somewhere to get 1 meter long tube , id buy $ 500 in bulk if i have to and flick it off , i will try some manufacturers around the planet , i will track some down

See top tube , have to put join in because cant get tube long enough


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Is there anyone who can answer my question about 1 meter long tube that is not E22 ,that can be bent as easy and tight as EK HD 10 /12 , i have tried to google searched all the obvious paces like PPC's etc.. i cant find 1 meter lengths ?


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/solid-tubing.html

If the EK online store don't have it no one will


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/solid-tubing.html
> 
> If the EK online store don't have it no one will


My question is as much about . is there an alternative that is as easy to use as EK HD ?

I suspect that EK just get it cut to that length by the manufacturer for ease of transport , and i see others like Bitspower are now stepping up the game and supplying 1 meter lengths and E22 aswell .

Hopefully EK do something about it too , as their tube is awesome , i should e-mail EK and see if they can do me a spacial order ? unlikely but no harm trying.

It is a really dumb length to make , even 600 mm would be so much better , because the majority of cuts you do , you waste a large amount of tube as off cut good for nothing , because its just never quite long enough for anything , even a 600 mm length would give an off cut that is of some use, duh.

I will just build the system with the planned LCD for water temp up top , and one day probably not too far in the future , im sure someone will cut it to 600 mm + as there is a demand for it , and is being done.

Id say Bitspower will soon , as they have just bought out all this other tube in 1 Meter and new colours of rigid too









No doubt the tube is made in lengths many meters long , and is just requested to be cut to 500 mm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Buy the EK tube.....?
> 
> 
> 
> But EK tube does not come in an longer than 500 mm right ? EK them selves dont stock it , make it it does not exist , only 1 meter long tube i can find is E22 and it is awful to use.
> 
> I see Bitspower have 1 meter long PETG , which is what i assume EK HD must be because it is so nice to use , but Bitspower on the Performance PC's website only have 1 meter lengths in red colour , and clear is 500 mm , What ? really ? , it seems impossible to get , i thought someone on this thread might know somewhere to get 1 meter long tube , id buy $ 500 in bulk if i have to and flick it off , i will try some manufacturers around the planet , i will track some down
> 
> See top tube , have to put join in because cant get tube long enough
Click to expand...

Sadly,I dont know why E22 tube is not working out for you,I use it pretty much exclusively.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly,I dont know why E22 tube is not working out for you,I use it pretty much exclusively.


Ok id like to know what im doing wrong ? , i have no problem with EK , what so ever , but no matter how hard i try E22 just folds up like socks fallen down , not even close to working.

Maybe you not doing very tight bends ? though im sure you do.

My jig , i made it with a 30 mm radius , and EK does it no prob , but i cant even do a 70mm bend with E22





Maybe i have a bad batch , the EK HD is 10 / 12 , the E22 is more like 11 /12 , very thin wall


----------



## zzorro

Still under construction
my new layout..


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> My question is as much about . is there an alternative that is as easy to use as EK HD ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect that EK just get it cut to that length by the manufacturer for ease of transport , and i see others like Bitspower are now stepping up the game and supplying 1 meter lengths and E22 aswell .
> 
> Hopefully EK do something about it too , as their tube is awesome , i should e-mail EK and see if they can do me a spacial order ? unlikely but no harm trying.
> 
> It is a really dumb length to make , even 600 mm would be so much better , because the majority of cuts you do , you waste a large amount of tube as off cut good for nothing , because its just never quite long enough for anything , even a 600 mm length would give an off cut that is of some use, duh.
> 
> I will just build the system with the planned LCD for water temp up top , and one day probably not too far in the future , im sure someone will cut it to 600 mm + as there is a demand for it , and is being done.
> 
> Id say Bitspower will soon , as they have just bought out all this other tube in 1 Meter and new colours of rigid too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No doubt the tube is made in lengths many meters long , and is just requested to be cut to 500 mm


OK 5m lengths be ok could always use ushop for shipping
as for workability never done rigid tube

forget sorry just read cut in 500mm lengths









http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shakmods-10mm-ID-12mm-OD-Rigid-Acrylic-Tubing-5-Meters-Length-Clear-Tubes-/201140890194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ed4ee6a52


----------



## Bertovzki

@zzorro , looks good , some pretty tight bends there with those fittings , looks a bit industrial and quite cramped

@Fzenz thanks for having a look around a finding that , its a start , not sure aout how easy it is to bend compared to EK ?, looks thin like EK stuff , ill look into it , iv herd of them before for custom cables Shakmods

I need to do some research , i dont even know yet what EK tube is , i guess its PETG ? as that is supposed to be easier than acrylic tube.

I just asked on the EK thread too , there are two reps active on there


----------



## Bertovzki

@Fzenz , went straight to Shakmods , same thing , they sell 5M , but its in 10 x 500 mm lengths lol un real


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly,I dont know why E22 tube is not working out for you,I use it pretty much exclusively.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok id like to know what im doing wrong ? , i have no problem with EK , what so ever , but no matter how hard i try E22 just folds up like socks fallen down , not even close to working.
> 
> Maybe you not doing very tight bends ? though im sure you do.
> 
> My jig , i made it with a 30 mm radius , and EK does it no prob , but i cant even do a 70mm bend with E22
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe i have a bad batch , the EK HD is 10 / 12 , the E22 is more like 11 /12 , very thin wall
Click to expand...

That's a great idea for tube jigging. Thank you for posting that. I finally connected my NB to CPU run and have to say that it's probably the hardest bit I will have to do in my whole loop. After wasting a full tube and part of another, I finally got fed up with trying to use the mapping rules that came with my kit and bent a single 45 leaving enough length to it that I could live with and took a wasted 45 as well as the 45 mandrel and marked where the next 45 needs to start. The end result is nice enough if I left it, it would be liveable but I am going to fine tune the length of the fitting ends once I get a Red 10mm BP adapter fitting. I've got a 20mm(brand new) and the connection is simply too far from the blocks to suit me. +Rep for your idea. I will definitely do this when I start work on the other runs.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> @Ceadderman which side of the pond...
> 
> If it is on the USA side, there's a place here in my town that might be able to help you out, I know they do custom machining.
> 
> http://ssdplastic.com/


Yes indeed I am on the North America side of the Pond. If I were in the UK, I would probably just have asked Bneg because his work looks flawless, but this side of the Pond is so big that it's difficult to pin down a source.

Thank you very much for putting me onto these guys. I will call them first thing Monday. I would've rather kept things in the same State but Colorado is much closer than the East Coast. Hopefully I can get this worked out. Possibly even sending them the case to have them prefit before shipping the finished product only to have to fine tune the fit.







+Rep to you as well good sir.









@guitarhero23 ... your backplate looks absolutely sick my friend.









~Ceadder


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> @zzorro , looks good , some pretty tight bends there with those fittings , looks a bit industrial and quite cramped


thanks bro.. look like oil refinery haha..








need to use all the fitting.. because no skills to bending tube


----------



## Bertovzki

@Ceadderman , yeah it is simple but a killer design , it works a treat







i made a full build log of it in my build log for the pictured rig , its in my sig

The thing is , yeah you can use monsoon mandrels or you can bend by hand , and it is great , you can get very nice bends.
But i wanted to get tight 90"s that are perfectly straight , if you do it by hand etc.. you always get a bit of a bow immediately after the bend , this rig will stop that , and it also makes it easier to get two 90" immediately after each other , perfectly straight and square









Another very cool bonus of my jig is , when you are just a mm or 2 , soon , or late on a multi bend , you can put it back in the jig , mark a line at end of tube to be shortened ( on the MDF mandrel ), heat it put it back in and and push the bottom of the tube level with pencil mark , and you have a bend within 0.5 mm every time in exactly the right place , the tube just falls in hole

This works very well with just a square or the monsoon mandrel in pic , to make sure all bends stay at perfect 90"

The other thing this jig works so well at is , when you want two bends immediately following each other , you can not help but soften the first one again , so with this jig you can do two bends at the same time !!


----------



## mbondPDX

Almost done putting my M1 under water but the ex240 I initially ordered is a few mm too thick for what I want to do. Got an st30 on the way that should do the trick. A quick cell phone pic of where it stands:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Ok id like to know what im doing wrong ? , i have no problem with EK , what so ever , but no matter how hard i try E22 just folds up like socks fallen down , not even close to working.
> 
> Maybe you not doing very tight bends ? though im sure you do.
> 
> My jig , i made it with a 30 mm radius , and EK does it no prob , but i cant even do a 70mm bend with E22
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe i have a bad batch , the EK HD is 10 / 12 , the E22 is more like 11 /12 , very thin wall


love the jig you made







I know I have multiple bends I'm going to have to pull off myself (not using the EK tube) hoping this shtuff I got from McMaster works out as it seemed to do ok for the test bends I did free-hand and w/ the auto vacuum line I used as an insert (didn't fill the tube properly) but I ordered the Monsoon insert)


----------



## snef




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> @Ceadderman , yeah it is simple but a killer design , it works a treat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i made a full build log of it in my build log for the pictured rig , its in my sig
> 
> The thing is , yeah you can use monsoon mandrels or you can bend by hand , and it is great , you can get very nice bends.
> But i wanted to get tight 90"s that are perfectly straight , if you do it by hand etc.. you always get a bit of a bow immediately after the bend , this rig will stop that , and it also makes it easier to get two 90" immediately after each other , perfectly straight and square
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another very cool bonus of my jig is , when you are just a mm or 2 , soon , or late on a multi bend , you can put it back in the jig , mark a line at end of tube to be shortened ( on the MDF mandrel ), heat it put it back in and and push the bottom of the tube level with pencil mark , and you have a bend within 0.5 mm every time in exactly the right place , the tube just falls in hole
> 
> This works very well with just a square or the monsoon mandrel in pic , to make sure all bends stay at perfect 90"
> 
> The other thing this jig works so well at is , when you want two bends immediately following each other , you can not help but soften the first one again , so with this jig you can do two bends at the same time !!


I did mine pretty well by hand for my 1st connection. It's straight as an arrow, but being honest about things, I have to say that I coulda done better on the first 45. Small crimp. Nothing glaring but I know that it's there. Otherwise it is perfect imho. I do like having the ability to heat up longer lengths of tubing however and that's what I immediately thought of the moment I saw your setup.







Although with a XFlow 360 being the first leg of the cooling journey, my lengths aren't going to be ridiculously long.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yungbenny911

More completed Project images HERE in my Build LOG

I mostly use my PC at night, or in the dark, so I went with UV clear blue, and Mayhem Aurora 2 Silver. It looks more purple than blue to me with my normal eyesight,. I'll say i'm satisfied with what i did, what do you guys think?


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> love the jig you made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I have multiple bends I'm going to have to pull off myself (not using the EK tube) hoping this shtuff I got from McMaster works out as it seemed to do ok for the test bends I did free-hand and w/ the auto vacuum line I used as an insert (didn't fill the tube properly) but I ordered the Monsoon insert)


Yeah i had a look at that , i will be interested to hear more feedback on the performance of that tube , and some pics of any tight bends achieved









Also discovered that Bitspower do make 1 M clear tube , just didnt find it on PPC's , so will have to get some when it is in stock.

@snef , looking great as usual there snef







i do really like the Egyptian themed build you are doing









@Youngbenny911 , yes i do like it , the aurora looks cool in that reservoir , some other led colour in the res , CPU block , or somewhere would look good IMO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> More completed Project images HERE in my Build LOG
> 
> I mostly use my PC at night, or in the dark, so I went with UV clear blue, and Mayhem Aurora 2 Silver. It looks more purple than blue to me with my normal eyesight,. I'll say i'm satisfied with what i did, what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Bravo!!

TCO






Installed Passthroughs at Dads shop this afternoon.


----------



## Yungbenny911

@Bertovzki

I have Orange, green, pink, and blue LED's i can switch to. I'll switch things up from time to time. Thank you!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> More completed Project images HERE in my Build LOG
> 
> I mostly use my PC at night, or in the dark, so I went with UV clear blue, and Mayhem Aurora 2 Silver. It looks more purple than blue to me with my normal eyesight,. I'll say i'm satisfied with what i did, what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bravo!!
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed Passthroughs at Dads shop this afternoon.
Click to expand...









Thank you. I can't wait till you're done, your PC looks better than mine already haha


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> More completed Project images HERE in my Build LOG
> 
> I mostly use my PC at night, or in the dark, so I went with UV clear blue, and Mayhem Aurora 2 Silver. It looks more purple than blue to me with my normal eyesight,. I'll say i'm satisfied with what i did, what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The modesty on this guy! I would be very "satisfied" with that build too. Job well done.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> @Bertovzki
> 
> I have Orange, green, pink, and blue LED's i can switch to. I'll switch things up from time to time. Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks you. I can't wait till you're done, your PC looks better than mine already haha


I wouldn't say that , that build of yours is very nice ! , i like seeing everyone's individual style and tastes , my Red black theme has been done many times , hopefully i bring something different to the theme.

Im packing now for a month long holiday with friends and family , will take PC and work on it when not active , and make some good progress


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> More completed Project images HERE in my Build LOG
> 
> I mostly use my PC at night, or in the dark, so I went with UV clear blue, and Mayhem Aurora 2 Silver. It looks more purple than blue to me with my normal eyesight,. I'll say i'm satisfied with what i did, what do you guys think?


You know your cards will run at 16x/8x and not 16x/16x, right? That renders the 5930K moot as 5820K can provide the same bandwidth in that configuration while costing a lot less.


----------



## spacealiens

Code:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> You know your cards will run at 16x/8x and not 16x/16x, right? That renders the 5930K moot as 5820K can provide the same bandwidth in that configuration while costing a lot less.


Not according to the X99s SLI Krait Edition manual. The top 2 PCIE slots are 16x with a 40 lane cpu.


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacealiens*
> 
> Code:


Not according to the X99s SLI Krait Edition manual. The top 2 PCIE slots are 16x with a 40 lane cpu.

You're right. That is indeed a weird and unorthodox configuration.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> More completed Project images HERE in my Build LOG
> 
> I mostly use my PC at night, or in the dark, so I went with UV clear blue, and Mayhem Aurora 2 Silver. It looks more purple than blue to me with my normal eyesight,. I'll say i'm satisfied with what i did, what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The modesty on this guy! I would be very "satisfied" with that build too. Job well done.
Click to expand...

haha, Thank you.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> @Bertovzki
> 
> I have Orange, green, pink, and blue LED's i can switch to. I'll switch things up from time to time. Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks you. I can't wait till you're done, your PC looks better than mine already haha
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't say that , that build of yours is very nice ! , i like seeing everyone's individual style and tastes , my Red black theme has been done many times , hopefully i bring something different to the theme.
> 
> Im packing now for a month long holiday with friends and family , will take PC and work on it when not active , and make some good progress
Click to expand...

Red and black is always nice when done right. Can't wait to see what you do also









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *spacealiens*
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Not according to the X99s SLI Krait Edition manual. The top 2 PCIE slots are 16x with a 40 lane cpu.
Click to expand...

You're right. That is indeed a weird and unorthodox configuration.

I did a lot of research before i bought the parts. I like aesthetics, but i'm definitely a performance type of guy


----------



## Furious Pcs

White Hawk My s3 Build


----------



## lmarklar

I've got a build log, but figured I'd share my rig and join in the club (before I tear the pretty apart and put my new cooling system I'm designing... Once I'm done with that it won't be nearly as pretty!)


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> Can I ask why you went with paper over a vinyl? Vinyl would of had useful water resistance if it got wet....that paper could mottle if it gets wet.


I don't have a vinyl printer, unless of course you can stick vinyl in a normal printer...than I guess that would be better. BUT, if this gets wet I'm pretty much F'd anyway haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> I've got a build log, but figured I'd share my rig and join in the club (before I tear the pretty apart and put my new cooling system I'm designing... Once I'm done with that it won't be nearly as pretty!)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why go less pretty!


----------



## electro2u

Shot a sort of a proof of concept video of my recent completed build being drained and then filled after the process of flushing out Blitz part 2.




The build has both a bay res and tube res and seems to me unusually easy to fill.
Camera settings turned out pretty bad, but you get the idea.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> I've got a build log, but figured I'd share my rig and join in the club (before I tear the pretty apart and put my new cooling system I'm designing... Once I'm done with that it won't be nearly as pretty!)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You might wanna take the sticker off the EK bridge









Oh and IMO, cover that SLI bridge with electric tape.


----------



## Wirerat

Deleted.


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Why go less pretty!


Making it colder and faster! I have a project I'm working on for a water chiller, insulated lines just don't have the same aesthetic value as acrylic








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> You might wanna take the sticker off the EK bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and IMO, cover that SLI bridge with electric tape.


It's all good, I'm not entering in any contests and this was my first 'pretty' build. The EK sticker doesn't bother me at all, and I never thought of covering the SLI with tape. I might find some black masking tape or something, don't feel like dealing with the residue from electrical tape!


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> Making it colder and faster! I have a project I'm working on for a water chiller, insulated lines just don't have the same aesthetic value as acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all good, I'm not entering in any contests and this was my first 'pretty' build. The EK sticker doesn't bother me at all, and I never thought of covering the SLI with tape. I might find some black masking tape or something, don't feel like dealing with the residue from electrical tape!


I think he means that your EK badge is still covered with the protective sticker, instead of looking like this:


----------



## lmarklar

Huh. Guess I never noticed that!

I'll take a look tonight when I get home, thanks you two!


----------



## alltheGHz

Hi everyone, so I'm about to get into watercooling, I plan on doing just my CPU. I may want to expand my loop to watercool my GPUs, and I want a small resovior, as this will be in a CaseLabs s5. I'm not sure what size rad to use, what kinds of pumps there are (what kind I need), and how much it will roughly cost. Please help?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Hi everyone, so I'm about to get into watercooling, I plan on doing just my CPU. I may want to expand my loop to watercool my GPUs, and I want a small resovior, as this will be in a CaseLabs s5. I'm not sure what size rad to use, what kinds of pumps there are (what kind I need), and how much it will roughly cost. Please help?


Do you have the S5 now? They have room for a 240 rad up front and a 360 rad drop-in up top but you have to order the panels for it. As far as room for other things, they actually are quite roomy mATX cases. Do you have a brand preference? Will you be able to overclock your CPU and GPU? I'm a DDC pump guy but others like the D5s for good reason.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Hi everyone, so I'm about to get into watercooling, I plan on doing just my CPU. I may want to expand my loop to watercool my GPUs, and I want a small resovior, as this will be in a CaseLabs s5. I'm not sure what size rad to use, what kinds of pumps there are (what kind I need), and how much it will roughly cost. Please help?


I don't know much about Case Labs cases other than they are expensive, but my suggestions is to get the largest rad you can get that will fit your case. On the pumps get a Laing DDC or D5 pump. These are sold under various brand names by Swiftech, EK, Koolance, XSPC and more, but usually the description will tell you if it is a DDC or D5.

Rough Estimate on cost:

Radiator: $100
Pump + Res: $150
CPU Block: $75
GPU Block: $150

XSPC makes some good starter kits with everything you need that are priced really well. I would spend a little more for the ones that come with the D5 pumps, and RX radiators, as their X20 pumps aren't very durable and their EX rads aren't that great.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I want a small resovior, as this will be in a CaseLabs s5


implying that you need to be restrictive in size because you're using a CaseLabs case

10/10, jimmies rustled


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Shot a sort of a proof of concept video of my recent completed build being drained and then filled after the process of flushing out Blitz part 2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The build has both a bay res and tube res and seems to me unusually easy to fill.
> Camera settings turned out pretty bad, but you get the idea.


Nice







. Mine also has a bay res and tube res in a single loop. It takes me about 10 minutes to fill it up, and about 5 minitues to drain the entire thing (thanks to gravity). Two D5's might be overkill though lol. I only have one D5 in mine, and an Alphacool DC-LT 2400 pump for support, but i don't think i needed the little pump at all.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mine also has a bay res and tube res in a single loop. It takes me about 10 minutes to fill it up, and about 5 minitues to drain the entire thing (thanks to gravity). Two D5's might be overkill though lol. I only have one D5 in mine, and an Alphacool DC-LT 2400 pump for support, but i don't think i needed the little pump at all.


Yah i dont really use the one on the tube res unless benching. Your build looks amazing btw.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Hi everyone, so I'm about to get into watercooling, I plan on doing just my CPU. I may want to expand my loop to watercool my GPUs, and I want a small resovior, as this will be in a CaseLabs s5. I'm not sure what size rad to use, what kinds of pumps there are (what kind I need), and how much it will roughly cost. Please help?


Just curious, why an expensive case and only do CPU vs another case and having more watercooling options?

Im coming through the final stretch of my s5 build currently so i can answer any s5 questions. (Well most)


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Just curious, why an expensive case and only do CPU vs another case and having more watercooling options?
> 
> Im coming through the final stretch of my s5 build currently so i can answer any s5 questions. (Well most)


Not yet, I'm going x99, still deciding if I wanna go matx or ATX, deciding if I go with the s5 or s8. Watercooling wise, I'm not really worried about the cost, but more the size, as the s8 compared to the s5 looks like a monster.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I don't know much about Case Labs cases other than they are expensive, but my suggestions is to get the largest rad you can get that will fit your case. On the pumps get a Laing DDC or D5 pump. These are sold under various brand names by Swiftech, EK, Koolance, XSPC and more, but usually the description will tell you if it is a DDC or D5.
> 
> Rough Estimate on cost:
> 
> Radiator: $100
> Pump + Res: $150
> CPU Block: $75
> GPU Block: $150
> 
> XSPC makes some good starter kits with everything you need that are priced really well. I would spend a little more for the ones that come with the D5 pumps, and RX radiators, as their X20 pumps aren't very durable and their EX rads aren't that great.


I might go for one of the kits, they look nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Do you have the S5 now? They have room for a 240 rad up front and a 360 rad drop-in up top but you have to order the panels for it. As far as room for other things, they actually are quite roomy mATX cases. Do you have a brand preference? Will you be able to overclock your CPU and GPU? I'm a DDC pump guy but others like the D5s for good reason.


No S5 yet, but I will want to keep the top flex bay open so I can look in through the top.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> No S5 yet, but I will want to keep the top flex bay open so I can look in through the top.


You can do a top rad mount and a window. Obviously only half would be visible.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Not yet, I'm going x99, still deciding if I wanna go matx or ATX, deciding if I go with the s5 or s8. Watercooling wise, I'm not really worried about the cost, but more the size, as the s8 compared to the s5 looks like a monster.
> I might go for one of the kits, they look nice.
> No S5 yet, but I will want to keep the top flex bay open so I can look in through the top.


I got the full windowed top. Build log is in sig if you want to see (im almodt done which is when ill put the top on). Although if youve thought about it im sure you know how nice the window up to on a caselabs looks


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furious Pcs*
> 
> White Hawk My s3 Build


Very nice build!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

marshymellows,you need to spoiler all but one of quoted pics please.

Thanks.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yah i dont really use the one on the tube res unless benching. Your build looks amazing btw.


Yours also! Can't go wrong with purple


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I got the full windowed top. Build log is in sig if you want to see (im almodt done which is when ill put the top on). Although if youve thought about it im sure you know how nice the window up to on a caselabs looks


Please link build log







) and what case did you go with?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Please link build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and what case did you go with?


I went with the CaseLabs S5. Build Log


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> marshymellows,you need to spoiler all but one of quoted pics please.
> 
> Thanks.


Yeah sry about that, quoteing on the phone does not always work out as intended







will preview next time before I post


----------



## ozzy1925

what would happen if i use the button of the ek block as inlet and the top port as outlet :


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> what would happen if i use the button of the ek block as inlet and the top port as outlet :


The water would shoot right through and not cool the card at all.

http://koolance.com/help-video-block-connecting

If you remove the left side connector between the cards and remove it then cap the ports, you will be fine.


----------



## Furious Pcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Very nice build!


Thanks


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> The water would shoot right through and not cool the card at all.
> 
> http://koolance.com/help-video-block-connecting
> 
> If you remove the left side connector between the cards and remove it then cap the ports, you will be fine.


thanks,but my set up will be serial right?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks,but my set up will be serial right?


Yes. Or move the bottom line to the right and run parallel.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks,but my set up will be serial right?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. Or move the bottom line to the right and run parallel.
Click to expand...

or the top to the right to also run in parallel.


----------



## Vintage

Not sure if anyone has already mentioned this but I just noticed that Bitspower released that PETG 12mm hardline tubing that people were talking about a few week back. Excited to see impressions of this tube as it makes PETG tubing accessible to those who prefer BP fittings.

Link:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-none-chamfer-petg-12mm-od-tube-length-500mm.html


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> or the top to the right to also run in parallel.


What these guys said, the Koolance link shows pretty clearly what the easy options are.

This is f'n TEAMWORK!


----------



## gman4097

Koolance and ek are the best in water cooling. I don't think the all on 1s should be allowed. They're so cheap and not worth it. B4 I did my water cooling I tried the h100i and my cool master v10 air cooler did better. That's shows me they're junk.


----------



## wermad

Google'd this image (flipped it for a second illustration for reference purposes for alternative plumbing):
Quote:


>


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gman4097*
> 
> Koolance and ek are the best in water cooling. I don't think the all on 1s should be allowed. They're so cheap and not worth it. B4 I did my water cooling I tried the h100i and my cool master v10 air cooler did better. That's shows me they're junk.


The 295x2 has an AIO with just a 120mm rad and that has to be the hottest card on the market. So I don't they are all junk.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> The 295x2 has an AIO with just a 120mm rad and that has to be the hottest card on the market. So I don't they are all junk.


No, its not. That goes to the reference 290X







. Amd was way too conservative w/ a 75°C thermal limit. I'm sure it can go to 85°C on the stock cooler but the lawyers always wanna play it safe then sorry.

Heat depends on your setup and ambient. Most owners on stock reported under 70°C under the 75° thermal cut off (throttles down). I saw mid sixties cut only benching for stability. I'm on custom water so this is not a concern tbh. I do agree the 120 rad is not enough but it is adequate as long as you can manage good air flow and probably change the fan or add a second. Two of them would not be a good choice as the sandwich will need more cooling (and thus generate more air). Also, there's very little fan management with the stock amd setup. Just too conservative cooling but enough not to warrant inadequate air cooling for two Hawaii's.

On custom water (koolance blocks), they usually stay in the high 40s for the mid 50s depending on my fan speed and ambient. Its cool right now and my fans are at 7v, so they will hover in the high 40s while gaming in 4k.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No, its not. That goes to the reference 290X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Amd was way too conservative w/ a 75°C thermal limit. I'm sure it can go to 85°C on the stock cooler but the lawyers always wanna play it safe then sorry.
> 
> Heat depends on your setup and ambient. Most owners on stock reported under 70°C under the 75° thermal cut off (throttles down). I saw mid sixties cut only benching for stability. I'm on custom water so this is not a concern tbh. I do agree the 120 rad is not enough but it is adequate as long as you can manage good air flow and probably change the fan or add a second. Two of them would not be a good choice as the sandwich will need more cooling (and thus generate more air). Also, there's very little fan management with the stock amd setup. Just too conservative cooling but enough not to warrant inadequate air cooling for two Hawaii's.
> 
> On custom water (koolance blocks), they usually stay in the high 40s for the mid 50s depending on my fan speed and ambient. Its cool right now and my fans are at 7v, so they will hover in the high 40s while gaming in 4k.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No, its not. That goes to the reference 290X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Amd was way too conservative w/ a 75°C thermal limit. I'm sure it can go to 85°C on the stock cooler but the lawyers always wanna play it safe then sorry.
> 
> Heat depends on your setup and ambient. Most owners on stock reported under 70°C under the 75° thermal cut off (throttles down). I saw mid sixties cut only benching for stability. I'm on custom water so this is not a concern tbh. I do agree the 120 rad is not enough but it is adequate as long as you can manage good air flow and probably change the fan or add a second. Two of them would not be a good choice as the sandwich will need more cooling (and thus generate more air). Also, there's very little fan management with the stock amd setup. Just too conservative cooling but enough not to warrant inadequate air cooling for two Hawaii's.
> 
> On custom water (koolance blocks), they usually stay in the high 40s for the mid 50s depending on my fan speed and ambient. Its cool right now and my fans are at 7v, so they will hover in the high 40s while gaming in 4k.


Yeah I wasn't saying that it's the hottest card in terms of gpu temps but that it generates more heat then probably any other card, and that if a 120mm AIO can dissipate that much heat than all in one's must not be all bad.


----------



## LandonAaron

When running two different pumps in series does it matter if the stronger or weaker pump is first? I had an xspc x20 pump feeding a swiftech mcp50x, but the x20 recently started making alot noise where it use to be completely silent. It still works it just makes a bunch of noise. I am looking to replace it with a D5 dual bay res and wonder if going d5 to mcp50x will be okay order, and if having this setup is what caused the x20 to go bad in the first place.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> When running two different pumps in series does it matter if the stronger or weaker pump is first? I had an xspc x20 pump feeding a swiftech mcp50x, but the x20 recently started making alot noise where it use to be completely silent. It still works it just makes a bunch of noise. I am looking to replace it with a D5 dual bay res and wonder if going d5 to mcp50x will be okay order, and if having this setup is what caused the x20 to go bad in the first place.


As long as you dont team up an Iwaki monster with a puny ceramic bubbler it shouldnt matter too much

My guess is that you have some air trapped in the X20/750.... or... it has just reached end of life, it happens

Question: teaming up MCP50 with 2xD5...... what the hell are your driving? 4 Admirals? 8 MO-RA's? all through 6mm tubing?









I mean, an MCP50 can handle already some stuff and can just like one D5 handle a "big" loop; 2xD5 is only used for complex loops & redundancy.

Maybe i should go check what you are doing/building...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

In progress of tossing everything together after painting!







Oh, I skipped the drain-valves on the reservoirs, it will either be a Q-block between the two EK-PE 480s in the bottom or the Q-block on one of the inlet/outlets on one of the pumps, or I could actually do both, but I guess that remains to see.


----------



## USMC Modder

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> what would happen if i use the button of the ek block as inlet and the top port as outlet :






You need to remove the circled tube if you are going to run serial. If you want to run parallel then you need to either move the top or bottom line over one.



Here's an example from mine that is in parrallel.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 
> 
> In progress of tossing everything together after painting!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Oh, I skipped the drain-valves on the reservoirs*, it will either be a Q-block between the two EK-PE 480s in the bottom or the Q-block on one of the inlet/outlets on one of the pumps, or I could actually do both, but I guess that remains to see.










Save them for the Bottom.. More functional.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Tubing The Bottom Rack

TCO


----------



## VSG

Looks like Alphacool has stepped up their game. I got an ST30 480 for testing recently and it was, well, way better than the Monsta I had. Fins were remarkably consistent:










Mayhems Blitz Pro cleaning showed nothing! The rad was very clean out of the box. The screws are also changed:




























Still the M3 hex head type but no need for washers anymore unless you have some special applications, and the threaded end is also smaller than what it was before:










In terms of actual thermal performance, due to the older design it got beat by some of the newer rads but it still did a decent job- especially at low-mid fan speeds.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like Alphacool has stepped up their game. I got an ST30 480 for testing recently and it was, well, way better than the Monsta I had. Fins were remarkably consistent:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Pro cleaning showed nothing! The rad was very clean out of the box. The screws are also changed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still the M3 hex head type but no need for washers anymore unless you have some special applications, and the threaded end is also smaller than what it was before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In terms of actual thermal performance, due to the older design it got beat by some of the newer rads but it still did a decent job- especially at low-mid fan speeds.


Thanks for the testing, VSG! I'm quite impressed actually. Hopefully they are on track with looking to improve performance now that they are getting their QC down.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> As long as you dont team up an Iwaki monster with a puny ceramic bubbler it shouldnt matter too much
> 
> My guess is that you have some air trapped in the X20/750.... or... it has just reached end of life, it happens
> 
> Question: teaming up MCP50 with 2xD5...... what the hell are your driving? 4 Admirals? 8 MO-RA's? all through 6mm tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean, an MCP50 can handle already some stuff and can just like one D5 handle a "big" loop; 2xD5 is only used for complex loops & redundancy.
> 
> Maybe i should go check what you are doing/building...


It will just be one D5 and one MCP50X. I originally started with just the X20 Pump/Res, and when I added a second GPU block, and second radiator I decided to upgrade the pump. It was cheaper to just add a second pump than to replace the Pump/Res. Now the X20 is dying and I need a new Res at least, and I came across a deal for a Monsoon Dual Bay Res and Swiftech MCP655 for $75, and jumped on it. Going to be running a CPU block, 2 full cover GPU blocks, mosfet block, 240 rad, 420 rad, and a MO-RA3 420 rad.


----------



## guitarhero23

Don't know if any of you will find this useful BUT I decided that even though they will be hidden I want very high attention to detail in my build so I attempted to replicate the label of a WD HDD.

If anyone finds it useful I have attached the .pdf file from illustrator (can export as others if you'd like). That way you can change the colors and adjust things if you would like.

It's a little rough but good enough for what I need and maybe what you need.




HDDDesign.pdf 822k .pdf file


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Don't know if any of you will find this useful BUT I decided that even though they will be hidden I want very high attention to detail in my build so I attempted to replicate the label of a WD HDD.
> 
> If anyone finds it useful I have attached the .pdf file from illustrator (can export as others if you'd like). That way you can change the colors and adjust things if you would like.
> 
> It's a little rough but good enough for what I need and maybe what you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDDDesign.pdf 822k .pdf file


Wow, once again, you have a great idea. I like that all you did was clean up the label instead of completely covering it. I'm actually going to steal this idea and do it for my Seagate Barracuda. +1


----------



## DarthBaggins

I could use that easily, Just need to input my own logo for J.A.C. or design thanks


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Wow, once again, you have a great idea. I like that all you did was clean up the label instead of completely covering it. I'm actually going to steal this idea and do it for my Seagate Barracuda. +1


Thanks!

QR code scans to OCN, and patent code and serial codes are accurate







, to my model at least, went to barcode generator sites. Show me what you do when you're done!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> QR code scans to OCN, and patent code and serial codes are accurate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , to my model at least, went to barcode generator sites. Show me what you do when you're done!


Awesome! I'll PM you when I'm ready. Thanks for the offer!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like Alphacool has stepped up their game. I got an ST30 480 for testing recently and it was, well, way better than the Monsta I had. Fins were remarkably consistent:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Pro cleaning showed nothing! The rad was very clean out of the box. The screws are also changed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still the M3 hex head type but no need for washers anymore unless you have some special applications, and the threaded end is also smaller than what it was before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In terms of actual thermal performance, due to the older design it got beat by some of the newer rads but it still did a decent job- especially at low-mid fan speeds.


Glad to hear it. I read or watched a video somewhere that also said the newer Alphacool rads were coming out much cleaner with a flush, good to have more info on that.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Glad to hear it. I read or watched a video somewhere that also said the newer Alphacool rads were coming out much cleaner with a flush, good to have more info on that.


If it helps, the Phobya G-Changer V.2 that came along with it seems to be following the same trend- mostly. Some soldering messes here and there but way better than the other two Alphacool rads I had from earlier:




























This one came with the older style screws though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Good to have a day off You know?

The Cautious One


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like Alphacool has stepped up their game. I got an ST30 480 for testing recently and it was, well, way better than the Monsta I had. Fins were remarkably consistent:
> 
> ...
> 
> In terms of actual thermal performance, due to the older design it got beat by some of the newer rads but it still did a decent job- especially at low-mid fan speeds.


Just read a review of that rad on a pretty interesting site called ThermalBench, you might have heard of it.







I was quite impressed with the quality of the rad.

Something to take into account too, like said reviewer mentioned, in the US it seems to be a bit more expensive than some of the younger and better performing 480mm rads. But in Europe its one of the cheapest if not the cheapest 480mm rad available.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Just read a review of that rad on a pretty interesting site called ThermalBench, you might have heard of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was quite impressed with the quality of the rad.
> 
> Something to take into account too, like said reviewer mentioned, in the US it seems to be a bit more expensive than some of the younger and better performing 480mm rads. But in Europe its one of the cheapest if not the cheapest 480mm rad available.


Interesting.. I usually take note of prices in the UK at the very least but this was sent via a specific retailer so they prefer to have only it mentioned. I will check prices and atleast mention this without links if that is the case. It definitely does affect the conclusion section more in favor of the ST30.


----------



## Kritikill

Anyone know if a manufacturer makes a bulkhead fill port? I am trying to add a fill port to the top of my case with minimal protrusion. Basically, a hardline compression fitting coming out or the top of the res, to a line attached to another fitting mounted that has a pass through to the top of the case with the ability to put a plug in it.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Anyone know if a manufacturer makes a bulkhead fill port? I am trying to add a fill port to the top of my case with minimal protrusion. Basically, a hardline compression fitting coming out or the top of the res, to a line attached to another fitting mounted that has a pass through to the top of the case with the ability to put a plug in it.


Plenty of them

http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/fitting-type--fillport/


----------



## Faster_is_better

Does aquatuning.us have a warehouse in U.S. to fulfill their orders or are they shipped overseas too? Shipping seems really cheap, but I don't really want to risk sending radiators overseas, if they were to be damaged... that doesn't seem like a fun RMA.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Does aquatuning.us have a warehouse in U.S. to fulfill their orders or are they shipped overseas too? Shipping seems really cheap, but I don't really want to risk sending radiators overseas, if they were to be damaged... that doesn't seem like a fun RMA.


Aquatuning ships from Germany


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Does aquatuning.us have a warehouse in U.S. to fulfill their orders or are they shipped overseas too? Shipping seems really cheap, but I don't really want to risk sending radiators overseas, if they were to be damaged... that doesn't seem like a fun RMA.


No. And then they have weird incoming customs issues if you send anything back.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Does aquatuning.us have a warehouse in U.S. to fulfill their orders or are they shipped overseas too? Shipping seems really cheap, but I don't really want to risk sending radiators overseas, if they were to be damaged... that doesn't seem like a fun RMA.
> 
> 
> 
> Aquatuning ships from Germany
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Does aquatuning.us have a warehouse in U.S. to fulfill their orders or are they shipped overseas too? Shipping seems really cheap, but I don't really want to risk sending radiators overseas, if they were to be damaged... that doesn't seem like a fun RMA.
> 
> 
> 
> No. And then they have weird incoming customs issues if you send anything back.
Click to expand...

Ok, that's what I wanted to know. Thanks


----------



## LandonAaron

Meet my new girlfriend. Her name's Mora. She's not very hot. Matter of fact she's huge...



Going to go like this:



The plan is to bolt it to the side with the 60mm stand-off/spacers, and have the fans on the out side blowing through the radiator towards the case. The other option is to put the fans between the case and the rad, and use 35mm spacers and and 65mm bolts.

Which of these options would be better as far as cooling performance, or would they be about the same?

I feel like a 60 mm gap between the radiator and the case will be enough to not create any extra pressure for the fans to deal with, but I don't know. Putting the fans on the other side and having them blow away from the case would mean nothing there to block the airflow, but only a 35mm gap between the case and fans for air flow through.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Meet my new girlfriend. Her name's Mora. She's not very hot. Matter of fact she's huge...
> 
> The plan is to bolt it to the side with the 60mm stand-off/spacers, and have the fans on the out side blowing through the radiator towards the case. The other option is to put the fans between the case and the rad, and use 35mm spacers and and 65mm bolts.
> 
> Which of these options would be better as far as cooling performance, or would they be about the same?
> 
> I feel like a 60 mm gap between the radiator and the case will be enough to not create any extra pressure for the fans to deal with, but I don't know. Putting the fans on the other side and having them blow away from the case would mean nothing there to block the airflow, but only a 35mm gap between the case and fans for air flow through.


Sweet, that's a lot of rad space! Honestly with that much cooling capability I'd mount whatever way is most accessible for cleaning.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Meet my new girlfriend. Her name's Mora. She's not very hot. *Matter of fact she's huge*...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to go like this:
> 
> 
> 
> The plan is to bolt it to the side with the 60mm stand-off/spacers, and have the fans on the out side blowing through the radiator towards the case. The other option is to put the fans between the case and the rad, and use 35mm spacers and and 65mm bolts.
> 
> Which of these options would be better as far as cooling performance, or would they be about the same?
> 
> I feel like a 60 mm gap between the radiator and the case will be enough to not create any extra pressure for the fans to deal with, but I don't know. Putting the fans on the other side and having them blow away from the case would mean nothing there to block the airflow, but only a 35mm gap between the case and fans for air flow through.


Big girls can be good too!







Love my MO-RA3's by the way!


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Meet my new girlfriend. Her name's Mora. She's not very hot. Matter of fact she's huge...
> 
> The plan is to bolt it to the side with the 60mm stand-off/spacers, and have the fans on the out side blowing through the radiator towards the case. The other option is to put the fans between the case and the rad, and use 35mm spacers and and 65mm bolts.
> 
> Which of these options would be better as far as cooling performance, or would they be about the same?
> 
> I feel like a 60 mm gap between the radiator and the case will be enough to not create any extra pressure for the fans to deal with, but I don't know. Putting the fans on the other side and having them blow away from the case would mean nothing there to block the airflow, but only a 35mm gap between the case and fans for air flow through.


I'd put the fans on the outside blowing in. Sandwiching them in the middle sounds like a good way to starve the fans of inflow air.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Does aquatuning.us have a warehouse in U.S. to fulfill their orders or are they shipped overseas too? Shipping seems really cheap, but I don't really want to risk sending radiators overseas, if they were to be damaged... that doesn't seem like a fun RMA.


FYI: I just received two 560 rads from Aquatuning.us last week with a bunch of other stuff. They ship everything from Germany. Everything arrived in perfect shape in only two days. I was impressed enough with them that I've ordered another box of stuff from them this week.

I understand your concerns though


----------



## LandonAaron

I am going to use this:



to cool this:



and use this:



to cool this:



Perspective







.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I am going to use this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to cool this:
> 
> 
> 
> and use this:
> 
> 
> 
> to cool this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perspective
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If you need more CFM, just drive faster.


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> If you need more CFM, just drive faster.


You know you're getting great cooling when you see red and blue flashes behind you.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Plenty of them
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/fitting-type--fillport/


Yes, there are plenty. Although, I didn't see a double female bulkhead fillport.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> If you need more CFM, just drive faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know you're getting great cooling when you see red and blue flashes behind you.
Click to expand...

Nah... Then you'd be in... Hot pursuit.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> You know you're getting great cooling when you see red and blue flashes behind you.


You know you're getting the best cooling when the red and blue flashes fade away.


----------



## fast_fate

I found this today....
Is this a Multi-Port SR2 from HardwareLabs








Not sure if Prototype or Pre-Production sample, but I'm sure we'll see some more info popping up soon about it


----------



## Elder

Simple end fast *KRAIT SKIN black&white* mod


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Plenty of them
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/fitting-type--fillport/
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there are plenty. Although, I didn't see a double female bulkhead fillport.
Click to expand...

This what you are looking for?

https://www.google.com/search?q=bitspower+BP-MBWP-C04
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I found this today....
> Is this a Multi-Port SR2 from HardwareLabs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if Prototype or Pre-Production sample, but I'm sure we'll see some more info popping up soon about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Sexy


Me want!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Simple end fast *KRAIT SKIN black&white* mod


Love your sleeving work


----------



## ozzy1925




----------



## DarthBaggins

HL makes some sexy looking rads


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> HL makes some sexy looking rads


Couldn't agree more!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I found this today....
> Is this a Multi-Port SR2 from HardwareLabs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if Prototype or Pre-Production sample, but I'm sure we'll see some more info popping up soon about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oooo, I think I finally know what rads I will be getting to finish out for my main rig's pedestal mod with.

Have to say HWLab make nice rads. Love the stealth one I currently have. Considering how it and the big 200 Phoyba are cooling my Titans down. Two more rads should be very nice indeed.


----------



## X-Nine

I love multi-port rads. Makes life so much easier for planning, mounting, running, filling and draining loops.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This what you are looking for?


Edit Think I found what I am looking for. It will look ugly inside, but I am going to use these.




I guess I didn't realize that they were chassis mounted. =)


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Simple end fast *KRAIT SKIN black&white* mod
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's an awesome case mod, especially love that backplate. You should make a thread for it and enter in the upcoming MOTM-Pro.

But why post it here?


----------



## guitarhero23

Got another one for you guys. Again, I've attached exported .pdf's from illustrator so I think layers should be intact so you can edit each item yourself. Used a couple custom fonts so you can set it to whatever fits your build! If you want to see it i implemented (will be soon) check out my build log in my sig and leave any comments on how to improve my build as I'm almost done (if you couldn't tell as I add all these details that won't be seen lol).

ARGGGG I saved over my vector 80 plus pdf with a bitmap image. I created it pretty large so I think it will still work for you guys.

*EVGA Power Supply and I created the 80 Plus rating image from scratch.*

*EVGA Minimalistic:*


EVGAG2.pdf 694k .pdf file


*80 Plus Rating:*


80PlusRating.pdf 136k .pdf file


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Drain ports came out good! That 240mm (Across from the 480) is going to be a pain to drain but I made it to where I left a little slack in the soft tubing to be able to do maintenance while all tubing is still attached.

The Cautious One


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drain ports came out good! That 240mm (Across from the 480) is going to be a pain to drain but I made it to where I left a little slack in the soft tubing to be able to do maintenance while all tubing is still attached.
> 
> The Cautious One


I did the exact same thing on my Caselabs, just drains out the bottom PSU plate.














A bit hard to get enough angle on the case to properly drain all the radiators down to that point even though its the lowest point. It would probably work better if I mounted it like yours being rotated 90 degrees however instead of flat.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I found this today....
> Is this a Multi-Port SR2 from HardwareLabs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if Prototype or Pre-Production sample, but I'm sure we'll see some more info popping up soon about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










If these come out, they will sell a loooot of them. Just what HWlabs needs really.


----------



## LandonAaron

Considering purchasing an Aquero 5 LT from Aquacomputer. Seems like the perfect solution for fan control and has a lot of expandability. I might also go ahead and get a flow meter and in line filter from them, if I can figure how I would mount the filter. Has anyone here use the AqueroSuite software? What was your experience with it? Also, the software comes free with the controller right? I read something on their site about software features being expensive to develop and to keep cost low they will only charge you for what you need or something like that. I can't find it now, but it made me worry that I would just end up buying the controller and then be forced to pay for licensing fee for the software, and then more fees everytime I want to expand the system with flow meter or something. Does anyone know if this is the case?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I did the exact same thing on my Caselabs, just drains out the bottom PSU plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bit hard to get enough angle on the case to properly drain all the radiators down to that point even though its the lowest point. It would probably work better if I mounted it like yours being rotated 90 degrees however instead of flat.


I haven't tested them yet! But being at the lowest point on both loops and just having to get a piece of soft tube with a fitting... I can route the tube outside of the case to a Jug or whatnot to save the fluid.

The Cautious One


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Considering purchasing an Aquero 5 LT from Aquacomputer. Seems like the perfect solution for fan control and has a lot of expandability. I might also go ahead and get a flow meter and in line filter from them, if I can figure how I would mount the filter. Has anyone here use the AqueroSuite software? What was your experience with it? Also, the software comes free with the controller right? I read something on their site about software features being expensive to develop and to keep cost low they will only charge you for what you need or something like that. I can't find it now, but it made me worry that I would just end up buying the controller and then be forced to pay for licensing fee for the software, and then more fees everytime I want to expand the system with flow meter or something. Does anyone know if this is the case?


software is *free*. Here is the Aq club: http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That's an awesome case mod, especially love that backplate. You should make a thread for it and enter in the upcoming MOTM-Pro.
> 
> But why post it here?


MOTM-Pro you say...hmm.
Krait is a simple budget PC ... I have something much bigger to MOTM.
Ultratower, 2x560rad SR1, full custom aluminum case end ... E-ATX mobo + miniITX inside









Work in progress


----------



## VSG

That is absolutely amazing, I would love to see more of that!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Considering purchasing an Aquero 5 LT from Aquacomputer. Seems like the perfect solution for fan control and has a lot of expandability. I might also go ahead and get a flow meter and in line filter from them, if I can figure how I would mount the filter. Has anyone here use the AqueroSuite software? What was your experience with it? Also, the software comes free with the controller right? I read something on their site about software features being expensive to develop and to keep cost low they will only charge you for what you need or something like that. I can't find it now, but it made me worry that I would just end up buying the controller and then be forced to pay for licensing fee for the software, and then more fees everytime I want to expand the system with flow meter or something. Does anyone know if this is the case?


Aquasuite is free.

Aquaeros are good.

10/10,Would buy again.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> MOTM-Pro you say...hmm.
> Krait is a simple budget PC ... I have something much bigger to MOTM.
> Ultratower, 2x560rad SR1, full custom aluminum case end ... E-ATX mobo + miniITX inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work in progress
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that just looks extremely nice case. Interesting place for the PSU.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> software is *free*. Here is the Aq club: http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aquasuite is free.
> 
> Aquaeros are good.
> 
> 10/10,Would buy again.


Thanks guys.


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That is absolutely amazing, I would love to see more of that!


THX








Check this...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1552241/scratch-build-black-ice-project-2xsr1-560-lc-custom-case


----------



## Ramzinho

i just noticed that B decided to choose my logo for the watercooling club... nice







thanks @B NEGATIVE


----------



## Hammonds

Here is my beloved loop



My loop had slowly been getting worse and worse performance over the course of the summer, I figured it was just because it was getting hotter and hotter. I cranked up the fan speeds which at least made it usable.

Winter came round and the performance was still awful with the fans on max and it being very very cold inside.

I pulled open the case and discovered something...



I had been running Mayhems red dye in my loop, Turns out it had solidified in my loop.

PC got stripped, Blocks were disassembled, Cleaning was done.







I flushed out my 2 radiators with boiling water and vinegar probably 10x, I let them sit with distilled water and vinegar for 24 hours. I even put them onto the garden hose for an hour each.
After all of that this was what was still coming out of them. Pink water with bits of **** in it.



Putting the GPU blocks back together I realized I had no replacement thermal pads so I ordered some from performances-pcs, The shipping to NZ was $69USD (!!!), I figured I should just order some more stuff I don't actually need to make up the shipping. Some new tubing, new pump top, inner pump tube, few fittings & some black tubing instead of red this time. I discovered a wonderful thing called Mayhems BLitz Pro, Ordered the lot and patiently awaited arrival.

I was very impressed at the Blitz Pro kit, A bit of debris came out after the first stage, But after that not even a speck of anything!









It all arrived in 3 days which I was pretty darn happy with, However there was one problem...The one thing I actually wanted WASN'T in the box. They forgot the damn thermal pads.








Got it all sorted with them and had some arrive within a week.

Finally put it all together.



So happy with how it came out!


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Considering purchasing an Aquero 5 LT from Aquacomputer. Seems like the perfect solution for fan control and has a lot of expandability. I might also go ahead and get a flow meter and in line filter from them, if I can figure how I would mount the filter. Has anyone here use the AqueroSuite software? What was your experience with it? Also, the software comes free with the controller right? I read something on their site about software features being expensive to develop and to keep cost low they will only charge you for what you need or something like that. I can't find it now, but it made me worry that I would just end up buying the controller and then be forced to pay for licensing fee for the software, and then more fees everytime I want to expand the system with flow meter or something. Does anyone know if this is the case?


Software is free from them. All of the custom overlays are made on your own and everything is free to make a working unit. I have not paid anything with AquaSuite and I dont believe AC wants to charge you for this anyhow. Im sure software development cost are included in the products they have. I love my Aquero 5 Pro and all the toys that I put with it.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quick question.

My pumps molex is wired like this:


You can see both the end of the pump molex and psu molex are both male ends. Can i just take the wire out of the pump one and flip the connector around (im assuming yes). How do i make sure i put them in the right spot...got a wiring schematic? Its a mcp35x .


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> Here is my beloved loop
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My loop had slowly been getting worse and worse performance over the course of the summer, I figured it was just because it was getting hotter and hotter. I cranked up the fan speeds which at least made it usable.
> 
> Winter came round and the performance was still awful with the fans on max and it being very very cold inside.
> 
> I pulled open the case and discovered something...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had been running Mayhems red dye in my loop, Turns out it had solidified in my loop.
> 
> PC got stripped, Blocks were disassembled, Cleaning was done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I flushed out my 2 radiators with boiling water and vinegar probably 10x, I let them sit with distilled water and vinegar for 24 hours. I even put them onto the garden hose for an hour each.
> After all of that this was what was still coming out of them. Pink water with bits of **** in it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Putting the GPU blocks back together I realized I had no replacement thermal pads so I ordered some from performances-pcs, The shipping to NZ was $69USD (!!!), I figured I should just order some more stuff I don't actually need to make up the shipping. Some new tubing, new pump top, inner pump tube, few fittings & some black tubing instead of red this time. I discovered a wonderful thing called Mayhems BLitz Pro, Ordered the lot and patiently awaited arrival.
> 
> I was very impressed at the Blitz Pro kit, A bit of debris came out after the first stage, But after that not even a speck of anything!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It all arrived in 3 days which I was pretty darn happy with, However there was one problem...The one thing I actually wanted WASN'T in the box. They forgot the damn thermal pads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it all sorted with them and had some arrive within a week.
> 
> Finally put it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So happy with how it came out!


It might just be the way the picture came out, but it really looks like you have the top of the block rotated 90 degrees out of place.

The jet plate should run down the middle of all the channels, so coolant moves from the center to the outside edge of every channel evenly.

The pattern staining in the second pic seems to support the 90 degree rotation.

Darlene


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> MOTM-Pro you say...hmm.
> Krait is a simple budget PC ... I have something much bigger to MOTM.
> Ultratower, 2x560rad SR1, full custom aluminum case end ... E-ATX mobo + miniITX inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work in progress


Holy...., That's Impressive indeed. Its like what the TJ11 should've been.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It might just be the way the picture came out, but it really looks like you have the top of the block rotated 90 degrees out of place.
> 
> The jet plate should run down the middle of all the channels, so coolant moves from the center to the outside edge of every channel evenly.
> 
> The pattern staining in the second pic seems to support the 90 degree rotation.
> 
> Darlene


Well spotted Darlene, it really does look like from the pattern on the cold plate like the top and jet plate were rotated.
That is a pretty nasty case of plasticiser (if that is what it is), not surprising performance suffered. I wonder how low flow rate drops when it gets that bad, and if that drop in flow then makes the build up worse or not.

Darlene means the slot in the metal plate should run at 90 degrees to the thin channels in the cold plate instead of running along parallel as it seems like it was mounted. Just that will drop flow because the fluid has only the centre couple of micro channels to escape along to the edge of the block and out, instead of having nearly all of them that the slot crosses.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> My pumps molex is wired like this:
> 
> 
> You can see both the end of the pump molex and psu molex are both male ends. Can i just take the wire out of the pump one and flip the connector around (im assuming yes). How do i make sure i put them in the right spot...got a wiring schematic? Its a mcp35x .


The molex from the PSU is female. The one from the pump is male. If they arent snapping in easy you might need to just work them side to sid3 a bit or possibly realign the 2 male pins of the pump molex connector.

Looks like the pump is possibly wired to the molex connector backwards? Take those 2 pins out (look up a molex crimp pin guide) and switch them around to the other end of that connector, if those are hollow female pins need to use 2 male pins (solid) instead. More pics of the connector on the pump might help cus the pins are hard to see.

The molex connector on the pump has the pins inserted in the wrong end.

The way molex gender works is according to the pins. The hollow pins go in a connector that is considered female even though the outside connector housing actually slides into the corresponding male connector. The male connector has solid pins.


----------



## Hammonds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Well spotted Darlene, it really sits look like from the pattern on the cold plate like the top and jet plate were rotated.
> That is a pretty nasty case of plasticiser (if that is what it is), not surprising performance suffered. I wonder how low flow rate drops when it gets that bad, and if that drop in flow then makes the build up worse or not.


Well **** that is indeed correct, No idea how that even happened!









I wasn't sure whether or not it was the tubing or the coolant that had solidified inside the loop, When I first flushed the radiators it was a slight pink & I'm like...where's the red gone. Put boiling through it and out it came, Blood red.


----------



## Kritikill

For any Star Wars fans; this is Fett-ish.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
















Finally received my mobo cable and was able to wrap up my first cooling project. Just have to get rid of the snorkel on top with a fill port. Then, I am going to redo the side panel as the lines do not quite line up the way I like. I am still debating on putting up the log pics as it is already complete.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> Well **** that is indeed correct, No idea how that even happened!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't sure whether or not it was the tubing or the coolant that had solidified inside the loop, When I first flushed the radiators it was a slight pink & I'm like...where's the red gone. Put boiling through it and out it came, Blood red.


Yeah it's very likely a combination of both. Plasticiser is clear and sticky or gummy but gets dyed by the coolant and it looks like it may then also then sort of filter out and trap other substances from the coolant. I regularly dug small amounts out of my block using just water when I used Primochill black tubing.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> For any Star Wars fans; this is Fett-ish.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally received my mobo cable and was able to wrap up my first cooling project. Just have to get rid of the snorkel on top with a fill port. Then, I am going to redo the side panel as the lines do not quite line up the way I like. I am still debating on putting up the log pics as it is already complete.


That is one beautiful machine.


----------



## Hammonds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah it's very likely a combination of both. Plasticiser is clear and sticky but gets dyed by the coolant and it looks like it may the also then filter and trap other substances out of the coolant. I regularly dug small amounts out of my block using just water.


Ah well, We live and we learn. I chucked the old block, Turns out the gold plated ones are impossible to clean as the plating just comes straight off.

Full copper EK Supremacy Evo is doing wonders for me











Let the overclocking begin!


----------



## Dzuks

Can someone confirm for me if this is a 1/2"×3/4" compression fitting?


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The molex from the PSU is female. The one from the pump is male.


Incorrect. The molex leads on power supplies are *ALWAYS* male.


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> Incorrect. The molex leads on power supplies are *ALWAYS* male.


coming from the PSU, sata and molex are female, no? all other connectors are male.


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> coming from the PSU, sata and molex are female, no? all other connectors are male.


No. All the connections coming from the PSU are always male.


----------



## wermad

don't female molex have male pins and male molex have female pins ???



psu has male plugs...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The molex from the PSU is female. The one from the pump is male.
> 
> 
> 
> Incorrect. The molex leads on power supplies are *ALWAYS* male.
Click to expand...

If, by molex, we are referring to the 4 pin AMP MATE-N-LOK Series connectors which are commonly (and yet incorrectly) known as/referred to as a "Molex" like guitarhero23 pictured, the terminals from the PSU are always female. The connector itself is 'male' but when someone refers to a "female molex" properly they are referring to the terminals, not the connector.

This is an example of a _female_ 'molex' on a corsair modular PSU cable:



Here's another example for you, from mainframe customs (home of Lutro0's line of products these days):

http://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/connectors/page/2/



Lest you think Mainframe Customs has them backwards, you'll see them named similarly elsewhere, like ...
https://ultimatepersonalcomputers.com/store/molex-female-connector/
http://www.icemodz.com/#!/4Pin-Female-Molex-Power-Connector/p/23357812/category=5517964
http://www.icemodz.com/#!/4Pin-Male-Molex-Power-Connector/p/23357813/category=5517964
etc

See? Whether we are talking about a 'Molex' or a fan or ATX connector, the terms 'male' and 'female' apply to the type of terminals inside the connector, not the connector itself.


----------



## wermad

wiki can't make up its mind as well


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> wiki can't make up its mind as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image


Wiki's actually not wrong. It is a 'male Molex 8981' which refers to the "Male Pins" in the "Female Connector" just like it says.


----------



## wermad

Look again, it says "*male connector* pin out". Then it says "female connector". Either that's a typo, or two editors got to this and said both.

edit: if you take it into figurative meaning, the male inserts into the female. So techinacally its a female connector that accepts male plugs. I've heard it go both ways. I know in the plumbing world, its more inline w/ its figurative conotation (following male and female sexual anatomy).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If, by molex, we are referring to the 4 pin AMP MATE-N-LOK Series connectors which are commonly (and yet incorrectly) known as/referred to as a "Molex" like guitarhero23 pictured, the terminals from the PSU are always female. The connector itself is 'male' but when someone refers to a "female molex" properly they are referring to the terminals, not the connector.
> 
> This is an example of a _female_ 'molex' on a corsair modular PSU cable:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another example for you, from mainframe customs (home of Lutro0's line of products these days):
> 
> http://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/connectors/page/2/
> 
> 
> 
> Lest you think Mainframe Customs has them backwards, you'll see them named similarly elsewhere, like ...
> https://ultimatepersonalcomputers.com/store/molex-female-connector/
> http://www.icemodz.com/#!/4Pin-Female-Molex-Power-Connector/p/23357812/category=5517964
> http://www.icemodz.com/#!/4Pin-Male-Molex-Power-Connector/p/23357813/category=5517964
> etc
> 
> See?
> 
> 
> Whether we are talking about a 'Molex' or a fan or ATX connector, the terms 'male' and 'female' apply to the type of terminals inside the connector, not the connector itself.


This ^

This have been a widely accepted convention to other connectors as well.

Female AC Plug


Spoiler: FEMALE AC Plug









Spoiler: MALE AC Plug







This one comes very close. Used in Professional Audio Equipment


Spoiler: FEMALE XLR Connector









Spoiler: XLR Connectors side by side







To classify them refers to the actual pins not the housing that encloses the pins.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> See? Whether we are talking about a 'Molex' or a fan or ATX connector, the terms 'male' and 'female' apply to the type of terminals inside the connector, not the connector itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> This ^
> 
> This have been a widely accepted convention to other connectors as well.
> 
> *To classify them refers to the actual pins not the housing that encloses the pins*.
Click to expand...

That's the clarification I was looking for, kewl gents


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The molex from the PSU is female. The one from the pump is male. If they arent snapping in easy you might need to just work them side to sid3 a bit or possibly realign the 2 male pins of the pump molex connector.
> 
> Looks like the pump is possibly wired to the molex connector backwards? Take those 2 pins out (look up a molex crimp pin guide) and switch them around to the other end of that connector, if those are hollow female pins need to use 2 male pins (solid) instead. More pics of the connector on the pump might help cus the pins are hard to see.
> 
> The molex connector on the pump has the pins inserted in the wrong end.
> 
> The way molex gender works is according to the pins. The hollow pins go in a connector that is considered female even though the outside connector housing actually slides into the corresponding male connector. The male connector has solid pins.


I stated my males and females wrong! Yes it is indeed pump=male psu=female, just pump molex on backwords so i figured i could switch it around. Guess i just want confirmation on EXACTLY which way to wire it when i flip it around. Didnt know what the worst case scenario is but i just dont wanna blow my pump up.


----------



## SteezyTN

It's all done for now. The 750D is such a great case to work in. I'm going to "air" leak test it tomorrow, and if it passes, I'm going to use just distilled water (no biocides). Then I may get some Mayhems Pasted Red, or Pastel Ice White. If I don't, I'll add the biocide.

Technically, I'm not done... Because I still need a GPU. The long piece of PETG is just temporary until I purchase a GPU and waterblock. Also, if I feel like it, I bend another peice for the one connecting the CPU block and too rad. That one wasn't exactly square. I also need to install the red cables I own.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The molex from the PSU is female. The one from the pump is male. If they arent snapping in easy you might need to just work them side to sid3 a bit or possibly realign the 2 male pins of the pump molex connector.
> 
> Looks like the pump is possibly wired to the molex connector backwards? Take those 2 pins out (look up a molex crimp pin guide) and switch them around to the other end of that connector, if those are hollow female pins need to use 2 male pins (solid) instead. More pics of the connector on the pump might help cus the pins are hard to see.
> 
> The molex connector on the pump has the pins inserted in the wrong end.
> 
> The way molex gender works is according to the pins. The hollow pins go in a connector that is considered female even though the outside connector housing actually slides into the corresponding male connector. The male connector has solid pins.
> 
> 
> 
> I stated my males and females wrong! Yes it is indeed pump=male psu=female, just pump molex on backwords so i figured i could switch it around. Guess i just want confirmation on EXACTLY which way to wire it when i flip it around. Didnt know what the worst case scenario is but i just dont wanna blow my pump up.
Click to expand...

Just use this pic that was posted previously . . . . .

Wire the pump connector so that it matches the red pump wire to the yellow wire's position in the housing and the pump's black wire with the adjacent black wire's position in the housing, with the housing's chamfered corners in the same position as in the pic.

Most pumps use a red and black wire which could be a bit confusing, since the molex in the pic has a red wire, but for pumps, the red only indicates the positive wire as compared to black for the negative, or ground wire.

While a molex uses red to indicate the +5V line, and yellow to indicate the +12V line . . . . Hence why the red wire from the pump connects to the yellow wire from the PSU, and would go in the position occupied by the yellow wire in the pic.


----------



## Yianni89

so i can finally post something water cooling related rather than just lurking and liking!

the blocks of plexi for my custom reservoir arrived with @DiamondCooling ready to be milled


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> don't female molex have male pins and male molex have female pins ???
> 
> 
> 
> psu has male plugs...


Well in reply to the male/female ordeal going on here. I hooked up both MCP35x pumps to the molex from the PSU. They were all virgins because they fit so tight I can pull them out of the PSU molex







Old Male molex fell asleep after he hit jackpot and I need to wake him up or get some lube.....

Anyone know how to Disengage them from each other without cutting them apart?

The Cautious ONe


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Anyone know how to Disengage them from each other without cutting them apart?
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Around here we just use a garden hose.


----------



## Wolfsbora

@wermad, what flex tube do you recommend for the least amount of plasticizer? My experience only lies with acrylic. I'm building an OCN/[email protected] themed build that will fold 24/7 and need tubing that will be the most reliable. There will most likely be green dye running through the system.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Around here we just use a garden hose.

















Interesting.

TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well in reply to the male/female ordeal going on here. I hooked up both MCP35x pumps to the molex from the PSU. They were all virgins because they fit so tight I can pull them out of the PSU molex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Old Male molex fell asleep after he hit jackpot and I need to wake him up or get some lube.....
> 
> Anyone know how to Disengage them from each other without cutting them apart?
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Hey since you have the same pumps can you take a picture of your connector and the colored cables for me? I think Diva explained it clear enough for me to fix after work today but I'm curious to see how yours is.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @wermad, what flex tube do you recommend for the least amount of plasticizer? My experience only lies with acrylic. I'm building an OCN/[email protected] themed build that will fold 24/7 and need tubing that will be the most reliable. There will most likely be green dye running through the system.


I know people generally scoff at it, but I've been using XSPC High Flex since my first loop almost 5 years ago and have never had a plasticizer problem.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Hey since you have the same pumps can you take a picture of your connector and the colored cables for me? I think Diva explained it clear enough for me to fix after work today but I'm curious to see how yours is.


I might have a shot already (Both cables going into the molex are Black and Yellow.




I marked the Holes they came out of to make sure I put them Back in correctly

TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I might have a shot already (Both cables going into the molex are Black and Yellow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I marked the Holes they came out of to make sure I put them Back in correctly
> 
> TCO


The 2nd picture is perfect, thanks. +1!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> The 2nd picture is perfect, thanks. +1!


For you Bro? Never a Problem. Love the MCP35x

TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I know people generally scoff at it, but I've been using XSPC High Flex since my first loop almost 5 years ago and have never had a plasticizer problem.


I knew I should have asked you too! +1 I think a lot of it comes down to what is ran through the system too. Dyes, biocides, water hardness and how they interact with the plastic.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I knew I should have asked you too! +1 I think a lot of it comes down to what is ran through the system too. Dyes, biocides, water hardness and how they interact with the plastic.


Agreed. Prior to this most recent rebuild, I always used a silver coil, distilled water from the local grocery store, and some Mayhem's Orange dye without any prolems. This time I switched to PT Nuke, so we'll see if that changes anything.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @wermad, what flex tube do you recommend for the least amount of plasticizer? My experience only lies with acrylic. I'm building an OCN/[email protected] themed build that will fold 24/7 and need tubing that will be the most reliable. There will most likely be green dye running through the system.


I realize you didn't ask me and I'll take no offense if you ignore my response.









Tygon E-3603 has no plasticizers. So that's an option to consider.

I chose E-3603 after reading this excellent blog article that compares many different types of tubing as well as other Googled sources.

Good Luck in your choice.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Agreed. Prior to this most recent rebuild, I always used a silver coil, distilled water from the local grocery store, and some Mayhem's Orange dye without any prolems. This time I switched to PT Nuke, so we'll see if that changes anything.


Keep me posted on it. I'll be using Primochill green dye that was given to me by VSG (@geggeg) for the Sweet Leilani build in my sig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> I realize you didn't ask me and I'll take no offense if you ignore my response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tygon E-3603 has no plasticizers. So that's an option to consider.
> 
> I chose E-3603 after reading this excellent blog article that compares many different types of tubing as well as other Googled sources.
> 
> Good Luck in your choice.


Great advice!! +1 I'll definitely keep that in mind. I have heard that it is good tubing but I believe someone here still ran into plasticizer issues with it.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Finally done!



Head over to my build log to see more: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520130/re-build-log-black-edition-ld-cooling-pc-v8-rivbe-4930k-r9-290x/0_100#post_23827427


----------



## meo95

Change view.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> The 2nd picture is perfect, thanks. +1!


Here's my pic that's a little more close up if you need it, same pump.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @wermad, what flex tube do you recommend for the least amount of plasticizer? My experience only lies with acrylic. I'm building an OCN/[email protected] themed build that will fold 24/7 and need tubing that will be the most reliable. There will most likely be green dye running through the system.
> 
> 
> 
> I realize you didn't ask me and I'll take no offense if you ignore my response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Tygon E-3603 has no plasticizers.* So that's an option to consider.
> 
> I chose E-3603 after reading this excellent blog article that compares many different types of tubing as well as other Googled sources.
> 
> Good Luck in your choice.
Click to expand...

It still has plasticizer,just not DEHP


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meo95*
> 
> Change view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> {/SPOILER]


Very clean lines, I like it. Is that anodized steel tubing?


----------



## meo95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Very clean lines, I like it. Is that anodized steel tubing?


yes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @wermad, what flex tube do you recommend for the least amount of plasticizer? My experience only lies with acrylic. I'm building an OCN/[email protected] themed build that will fold 24/7 and need tubing that will be the most reliable. There will most likely be green dye running through the system.


I stick w/ Primochill Advanced Lrt. In your case, for clear, get their "Crystal clear" one. As for the other brands, I can't really comment since I've stuck w/ Advanced lrt since it was launched. Primochill has been pretty good w/ customer service in case if you do end up getting any plasticize. I would hit up the plasticize discussion thread to see if any other brand has held up.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery

There's also a database on results. Its pretty comprehensive since it goes back to ~2011.

edit: here's the advance "elegant white" in my current build:







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Finally done!
> 
> 
> 
> Head over to my build log to see more: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520130/re-build-log-black-edition-ld-cooling-pc-v8-rivbe-4930k-r9-290x/0_100#post_23827427


Very nice. I'm always a fan of yellow (especially if green is involved in the theme)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meo95*
> 
> Change view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, luv the 90° mb layout w/ the i/o's facing down








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> MOTM-Pro you say...hmm.
> Krait is a simple budget PC ... I have something much bigger to MOTM.
> Ultratower, 2x560rad SR1, full custom aluminum case end ... E-ATX mobo + miniITX inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work in progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, amazing stuff there








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> Here is my beloved loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My loop had slowly been getting worse and worse performance over the course of the summer, I figured it was just because it was getting hotter and hotter. I cranked up the fan speeds which at least made it usable.
> 
> Winter came round and the performance was still awful with the fans on max and it being very very cold inside.
> 
> I pulled open the case and discovered something...
> 
> 
> 
> I had been running Mayhems red dye in my loop, Turns out it had solidified in my loop.
> 
> PC got stripped, Blocks were disassembled, Cleaning was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I flushed out my 2 radiators with boiling water and vinegar probably 10x, I let them sit with distilled water and vinegar for 24 hours. I even put them onto the garden hose for an hour each.
> After all of that this was what was still coming out of them. Pink water with bits of **** in it.
> 
> 
> 
> Putting the GPU blocks back together I realized I had no replacement thermal pads so I ordered some from performances-pcs, The shipping to NZ was $69USD (!!!), I figured I should just order some more stuff I don't actually need to make up the shipping. Some new tubing, new pump top, inner pump tube, few fittings & some black tubing instead of red this time. I discovered a wonderful thing called Mayhems BLitz Pro, Ordered the lot and patiently awaited arrival.
> 
> I was very impressed at the Blitz Pro kit, A bit of debris came out after the first stage, But after that not even a speck of anything!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It all arrived in 3 days which I was pretty darn happy with, However there was one problem...The one thing I actually wanted WASN'T in the box. They forgot the damn thermal pads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it all sorted with them and had some arrive within a week.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally put it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> So happy with how it came out!


I had similar issues w/ my first major loop using better components. I used Primochill dye bombs and it separated pretty quick. Staining was an issue but the nickel plated blocks did clean off good. It sucks your gold plating went but its not the first time I've heard gold plating comes off (and don't get me started on the old nickel blocks I had







). Your X reminds me of my old 932 build and brings back the joys of struggling w/ a big loop as a noob







. Looks great and nice mod on the 240 down there


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It still has plasticizer,just not DEHP


Thanks for the correction. You're right.









Without plasticizers it would brittle. E-3603 just doesn't have the "bad" plasticizer.


----------



## wermad

To add to the whole molex discussion, be warned, it does slightly go in the wrong way and you may end up w/ 5v>12v and 12v>5v. Sadly, I killed my reservoir's led's doing this







mistake (







).


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meo95*
> 
> Change view.


havent seen one of these in forever! man this looks great!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> To add to the whole molex discussion, be warned, it does slightly go in the wrong way and you may end up w/ 5v>12v and 12v>5v. Sadly, I killed my reservoir's led's doing this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mistake (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Lucky it was an LED...

I killed a perfectly good 120Gb SSD when i got SATA back to front......


----------



## Eggroll40k

Had a quick question for a build I'm doing and was hoping someone in this thread might be able to help...

I'm currently building a custom loop in a Hadron Air and have a Alphacool DDC 3.1 pump with the plexi top. The pump is mounted so the top is visible through the side panel window. Unfortunately, my build colors are black and red but the DDC impeller is colored blue. Does anyone know if there's different colored impellers you can buy or if a spray paint mod of the impeller safe for the pump?

Pic of the build:


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meo95*
> 
> Change view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great Idea








and execution, will study the pics closely for some ideas.

The layout has changed dramatically (pump & res in basement) & (symetrical rads front and rear - both intake) since this "concept" temp fitting for placement shot was taken...
But motherboard placement remains the same







except now countersunk, shelf fitted to underside of the support rails.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lucky it was an LED...
> 
> I killed a perfectly good 120Gb SSD when i got SATA back to front......


Yep. I had experimented with sleeving a modular sata cable. Just taking the pins out to see how hard it would be to get it apart and back together. When I put it back together I got some of the pins backwards. I thought I had something wrong so I made a note to never use that cable. I forgot, and a year later when I did use it, 2 ssd's and 1 HDD died on me. A very expensive mistake.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggroll40k*
> 
> Had a quick question for a build I'm doing and was hoping someone in this thread might be able to help...
> 
> I'm currently building a custom loop in a Hadron Air and have a Alphacool DDC 3.1 pump with the plexi top. The pump is mounted so the top is visible through the side panel window. Unfortunately, my build colors are black and red but the DDC impeller is colored blue. Does anyone know if there's different colored impellers you can buy or if a spray paint mod of the impeller safe for the pump?
> 
> Pic of the build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Im not sure, id be scared to. What coolant are you going to use? If you use pastel i dont know if youd even notice


----------



## Eggroll40k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Im not sure, id be scared to. What coolant are you going to use? If you use pastel i dont know if youd even notice


So far I've been just using distilled water but will be putting in mayhem's red dye in it later.


----------



## Hambone07si

So I showed you guys a picture of the 3 AIO's setup in my case last week which turned out pretty nice and temps were great only hitting 45c max load with 68 degree ambient. I have been thinking and thinking and I'm just not a AIO fan no matter what personally, even tho they are doing one hell of a job on 2 780ti's overclocked to 1201mhz plus. BUT!! They are coming out tomorrow. I was picking up parts for 2 540 air builds I'm doing this weekend for some gaming friends of mine and when I was at microcenter I just couldn't help myself to not buy anything for me







. I grabbed the EK L240 Kit they had, 1 left, because the price dropped to only $205. I came home and then ordered another EK PE rad, but the 360mm for the front of my 540 air, and I'll put the 240mm up top that the kit came with. I ordered 2 water blocks for my 780ti's last night as well and the 360 rad and blocks will be here tomorrow. Friday Fun Day









Here's what I'm thinking so far.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> So I showed you guys a picture of the 3 AIO's setup in my case last week which turned out pretty nice and temps were great only hitting 45c max load with 68 degree ambient. I have been thinking and thinking and I'm just not a AIO fan no matter what personally, even tho they are doing one hell of a job on 2 780ti's overclocked to 1201mhz plus. BUT!! They are coming out tomorrow. I was picking up parts for 2 540 air builds I'm doing this weekend for some gaming friends of mine and when I was at microcenter I just couldn't help myself to not buy anything for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I grabbed the EK L240 Kit they had, 1 left, because the price dropped to only $205. I came home and then ordered another EK PE rad, but the 360mm for the front of my 540 air, and I'll put the 240mm up top that the kit came with. I ordered 2 water blocks for my 780ti's last night as well and the 360 rad and blocks will be here tomorrow. Friday Fun Day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I'm thinking so far.


Let us know how the NZXT Grid+ works for you.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> So I showed you guys a picture of the 3 AIO's setup in my case last week which turned out pretty nice and temps were great only hitting 45c max load with 68 degree ambient. I have been thinking and thinking and I'm just not a AIO fan no matter what personally, even tho they are doing one hell of a job on 2 780ti's overclocked to 1201mhz plus. BUT!! They are coming out tomorrow. I was picking up parts for 2 540 air builds I'm doing this weekend for some gaming friends of mine and when I was at microcenter I just couldn't help myself to not buy anything for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I grabbed the EK L240 Kit they had, 1 left, because the price dropped to only $205. I came home and then ordered another EK PE rad, but the 360mm for the front of my 540 air, and I'll put the 240mm up top that the kit came with. I ordered 2 water blocks for my 780ti's last night as well and the 360 rad and blocks will be here tomorrow. Friday Fun Day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I'm thinking so far.
> [/IMG]


Nice, the 540 Air is an interesting case for watercooling, big design and lots of airflow...my biggest issue was always where to put the pump. I had a D5 and res combo that I put in back over the PSU because it really didn't fit anywhere else but was always nervous about that, curious to see how that EK pump fits...its small enough you can be creative about where it goes.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lucky it was an LED...
> 
> I killed a perfectly good 120Gb SSD when i got SATA back to front......


SATA male end, the peg sometimes breaks off and there goes the safety measure.

I killed a 1.5tb mech drive plugging in the SATA incorrectly since the peg broke off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Yep. I had experimented with sleeving a modular sata cable. Just taking the pins out to see how hard it would be to get it apart and back together. When I put it back together I got some of the pins backwards. I thought I had something wrong so I made a note to never use that cable. I forgot, and a year later when I did use it, 2 ssd's and 1 HDD died on me. A very expensive mistake.


Damn, that sucks. I always double check my mb's SATA auxiliary power setup as its too much hardware to just plug and forget.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I stick w/ Primochill Advanced Lrt. In your case, for clear, get their "Crystal clear" one. As for the other brands, I can't really comment since I've stuck w/ Advanced lrt since it was launched. Primochill has been pretty good w/ customer service in case if you do end up getting any plasticize. I would hit up the plasticize discussion thread to see if any other brand has held up.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery
> 
> There's also a database on results. Its pretty comprehensive since it goes back to ~2011.
> 
> edit: here's the advance "elegant white" in my current build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a nice, almost "porcelain" white. Thanks for the advice! +1 I saw that Micro Center carries Primochill Advanced LRT the last time I visited my family that lives by one.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> So I showed you guys a picture of the 3 AIO's setup in my case last week which turned out pretty nice and temps were great only hitting 45c max load with 68 degree ambient. I have been thinking and thinking and I'm just not a AIO fan no matter what personally, even tho they are doing one hell of a job on 2 780ti's overclocked to 1201mhz plus. BUT!! They are coming out tomorrow. I was picking up parts for 2 540 air builds I'm doing this weekend for some gaming friends of mine and when I was at microcenter I just couldn't help myself to not buy anything for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I grabbed the EK L240 Kit they had
> 
> Snip


I started with a L360 kit. I wasn't really happy with the dcp 2.2 after adding another rad and a GPU block. The biggest problem I had was it was more difficult to bleed.

It could have been my layout making it worse with the pump/res at a low point though.


----------



## meo95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice, luv the 90° mb layout w/ the i/o's facing down


thank.I'm glad you like it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> havent seen one of these in forever! man this looks great!!!


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Great Idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and execution, will study the pics closely for some ideas.
> 
> The layout has changed dramatically (pump & res in basement) & (symetrical rads front and rear - both intake) since this "concept" temp fitting for placement shot was taken...
> But motherboard placement remains the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> except now countersunk, shelf fitted to underside of the support rails.


Thanks for the advice
In the basement, I created to connect the pumps, fans.
The DVI connector, audio and more to the sides of the case.

The left and right For ventilation. The inner container lines.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I started with a L360 kit. I wasn't really happy with the dcp 2.2 after adding another rad and a GPU block. The biggest problem I had was it was more difficult to bleed.
> 
> It could have been my layout making it worse with the pump/res at a low point though.


I've installed many of the EK kits with no issues. The one guy that I built a pc for has the L360 kit on his cpu and 2 7970's in Xfire and it worked great on that build. He just brought his pc back last night for moving it all into a 540 Air and adding a 2nd rad.

I have a MCP655 sitting on my shelf if the EK pump isn't cutting it out. I can add it to the loop and run 2 pumps. Shouldn't be a problem tho with the way I'm going to run it in my setup. I will have some pics come tomorrow night. That pump in that kit is really one of my favorite pumps I've ever used to be honest. Maybe it's a little different for me as I don't use the power supply to run the pump when filling the loop. I have a 12v external 120v power supply with a molex connector and fan header hooked up to it. So all I gotta do is fill the res, flip a switch, fill more, flip switch. That makes it a LOT easier IMO. I've had my share of filling loops the hard way many years ago. I remember me and a friend both holding up a 800D that weighed about 60lbs and flipping in over and over and then this way and that way and on the side, what a pain!! Won't be doing anything like that again LOL. When you build as many pc's with water as I do for people, you learn to be quick at it or you loose money and not make money








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Nice, the 540 Air is an interesting case for watercooling, big design and lots of airflow...my biggest issue was always where to put the pump. I had a D5 and res combo that I put in back over the PSU because it really didn't fit anywhere else but was always nervous about that, curious to see how that EK pump fits...its small enough you can be creative about where it goes.


I was thinking about that same spot as well. seen them there before in pics. Might end up in the window side on the back or even on the floor. We'll see.


----------



## erso44

next time I´ll buy a 900D instead of 750D. Not enough space for water cooling parts!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> next time I´ll buy a 900D instead of 750D. Not enough space for water cooling parts!


I am with you (Except for the 900D Part... Went to a SMA8 instead) Miles Apart.

 

TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

You're all just silly! I crammed it all into a 550D with dual SLI'd 780 Ti SCs that only reach 40 degrees max.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> next time I´ll buy a 900D instead of 750D. Not enough space for water cooling parts!


Your joking, right?


----------



## Ceadderman

My HAF 932 is awesome for space!









Now that the cages have been removed.


















~Ceadder


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meo95*
> 
> Change view.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Love it! I like me some crammed up PC lol. Tightening those fittings must have been a pain


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I've installed many of the EK kits with no issues. The one guy that I built a pc for has the L360 kit on his cpu and 2 7970's in Xfire and it worked great on that build.
> I was thinking about that same spot as well. seen them there before in pics. Might end up in the window side on the back or even on the floor. We'll see.


I filled mine using a external power supply too. I never said the temps were bad using the 2.2 it just took more than a day to get the air out with rads mounted above the pump/res.

When I would first load the cpu/gpu it would spike 2-3c higher than my ddc does because it was taking a little for water temp longer to equalize. That was not a big issue though.

The Ltx block on the other hand was 5c warmer than the Supremacy mx. So together switching out the pump and the block showed about a 7c improvement in max cpu temps.

I am still using the LTX block on my sons rig (2nd sig rig). I really like the look of the LTX block. Its clean without the square box sitting on top the other ek blocks aways have.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I was thinking about that same spot as well. seen them there before in pics. Might end up in the window side on the back or even on the floor. We'll see.


Mine ended up on the back. I didn't think the EK D5 Xres was so big.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Mine ended up on the back. *I didn't think the EK D5 Xres was so big.*


I think its a D5 thing. My primochill D5 compression res is huge and I only got the 120mm.


----------



## snef




----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Snef, just stop, you are making me want to cry when I look at what the last 8 years has done to my case. I see the work you do and I DESPAIR!

Seriously though, that is a beautiful build and makes me like a color I would normally pass on. great work.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Snef, just stop, you are making me want to cry when I look at what the last 8 years has done to my case. I see the work you do and I DESPAIR!
> 
> Seriously though, that is a beautiful build and makes me like a color I would normally pass on. great work.


I totally understand. After looking at Snef's and all the other soo talented builds. I'm not even going to try to be in the same league with my build cause I know I don't have the skill or patience to make it happen.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> I totally understand. After looking at Snef's and all the other soo talented builds. I'm not even going to try to be in the same league with my build cause I know I don't have the skill or patience to make it happen.


Oh don't be so hard on yourself. When I look at builds like that I say, "meh, I could do that too, if I had the time, patience, skill, knowledge, money, and know how." would be nothing to it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> I totally understand. After looking at Snef's and all the other soo talented builds. I'm not even going to try to be in the same league with my build cause I know I don't have the skill or patience to make it happen.


I feel opposite. Im ready for the Challenge.

Now the money part... eh... Just makes me want to work harder!

TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> I totally understand. After looking at Snef's and all the other soo talented builds. I'm not even going to try to be in the same league with my build cause I know I don't have the skill or patience to make it happen.


Whether or not I can achieve that level of work isn't even the issue. 8 years ago I started modding my Coolermaster Stacker (the OG) and work got in the way for a few months, then I found myself unemployed in early 2008. Since then it is has been crappy job mixed with too long stretches of unemployment and FINALLY I am back into a job that pays better than the one I left in 2008. So the modding bug is back and I have a project to finish.









Seeing builds like Snef's really gets me going, it is a GOOD thing. Gotta aim high or you hit nothing but dirt, right?


----------



## wermad

Do what YOU want. I may grab some inspiration from others but I see Uber nice builds more as motivation to keep doing what I luv; custom pc's


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do what YOU want. I may grab some inspiration from others but I see Uber nice builds more as motivation to keep doing what I luv; custom pc's


It is about something that gives you a sense of satisfaction when you look at it and you are proud to post a pic of it up in here.









And then you start the next one. Hopefully.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do what YOU want. I may grab some inspiration from others but I see Uber nice builds more as motivation to keep doing what I luv; custom pc's










Someone give me a tissue.. Right in the FEELS...









TCO


----------



## Yungbenny911

Awwww. Ya'll stap it









hehehe...


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Nice, the 540 Air is an interesting case for watercooling, big design and lots of airflow...my biggest issue was always where to put the pump. I had a D5 and res combo that I put in back over the PSU because it really didn't fit anywhere else but was always nervous about that, curious to see how that EK pump fits...its small enough you can be creative about where it goes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I filled mine using a external power supply too. I never said the temps were bad using the 2.2 it just took more than a day to get the air out with rads mounted above the pump/res.
> 
> When I would first load the cpu/gpu it would spike 2-3c higher than my ddc does because it was taking a little for water temp longer to equalize. That was not a big issue though.
> 
> The Ltx block on the other hand was 5c warmer than the Supremacy mx. So together switching out the pump and the block showed about a 7c improvement in max cpu temps.
> 
> I am still using the LTX block on my sons rig (2nd sig rig). I really like the look of the LTX block. Its clean without the square box sitting on top the other ek blocks aways have.


I see. I was just at Microcenter getting some more parts for these other 2 water cooled 540 air builds I'm doing this weekend and I ended up grabbing another pump. I got the Phobya DC12-260 which is 600L/hour. Seen it on the shelf for only $40 so I grabbed it quickly lol. Can't pass on a pump for that cheap. It should run really nice with the EK 2.2 having 400L/hour, just might turn it down to 70% to match the same flow rate. Both of these should be plenty and have the reliability of 2 pumps in case one turns off or fails.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Mine ended up on the back. I didn't think the EK D5 Xres was so big.


that's not to bad in the back. Makes it easy to fill









And to snef, SWEET build right there man!! great work!!


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> that's not to bad in the back. Makes it easy to fill


That's what she said?

But really, its super easy to fill and convenient drain spot too.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> That's what she said?
> 
> But really, its super easy to fill and convenient drain spot too.


I seen a couple mounted inside the case in that same spot also. I'm pulling all the parts out now and getting things ready for tomorrow. I need to think about where I'm going to put 2 pumps lol.

Hey wermad , is the the Thermaltake Core X9 you are working with now? I seen that case at microcenter and was really thinking about grabbing it too. I love the 540 air and it should fit everything I want to do, BUT DAME does that thing have a ton of room. If I got that case I'd be able to put my huge quad 480 rad in there with the 240 and 360 (and 4 more) and as many pumps as i'd want. Really gets me thinking for all the possibilities one could do with it. It was only $160 there and that's not bad at all. If that's the case you have, please share your thoughts on it. Thanks bud


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Done for the Night. The One Bend is left for later. Still waiting on cables and the jazz.

TCO


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done for the Night. The One Bend is left for later. Still waiting on cables and the jazz.
> 
> TCO


Coming along nicely







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Are those Xigma fans snef?

I will never buy a Xigma fan tbh. I just replaced my bros with my NIB Cooler Master stock 140 because his Xigma went TU in less than 2 years. All that was wrong with the CM fan was I cut off the connector to splice together a Yate Loon cable that wasn't long enough and it's still working. Just put some pins on the CM, applied the connector and he's got a new fan an don't have to spend a dime on it.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

They are Gelid wing fans, I snooped around cause those would work great in r.c70-Christine


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


Tubeless build...wow impressive!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> They are Gelid wing fans, I snooped around cause those would work great in r.c70-Christine


Ahh okay. Can't believe that my bros fan died so quicklike as it was his Exhaust fan on his bone stock system. I could see it dying if it was mounted horizontally but this is a vertical case fan we're talking about. Dude spent nearly $20 on it not including shipping. Which is why I won't buy one, even for a case fan.









~Ceadder


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Tubeless build...wow impressive!


Nah, he just buffed em so much they are ultra transparent, it is the next big thing.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Tubeless build...wow impressive!


Yeah! His build is awesomely impressive!

In case you are wondering why there is no liquid in it as well, well the coolant is watercooled by an invisible liquid concentrate!


----------



## wermad

No, you got it all wrong. Scotty is beaming the heat out of the rig


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Yeah! His build is awesomely impressive!
> 
> In case you are wondering why there is no liquid in it as well, well the coolant is watercooled by an invisible liquid concentrate!


Water cooling with no water?? Now that is impressive!


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Tubeless build...wow impressive!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah! His build is awesomely impressive!
> 
> In case you are wondering why there is no liquid in it as well, well the coolant is watercooled by an invisible liquid concentrate!
Click to expand...

Transparent aluminum! I knew it


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually snef put in them newfangled BP "worm-hole" fittings. no fuss no muss and absolutely no mess. Can't wait til I get some for my build!









~Ceadder


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually snef put in them newfangled BP "worm-hole" fittings. no fuss no muss and absolutely no mess. Can't wait til I get some for my build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


lol, saw the update, thought there were new BP wormhole fittings, read previous posts, cried.


----------



## LandonAaron

How can you hook up hose with a g and 1/4 fitting to a kitchen sink? I am going to blitz my rads and want to be able to give them a good hot water flush afterward. Tried those hide and funnel method and I have to fight gravity so hard I barely get a trickle through.

I mean a normal hose I can put a fitting on not a garden hose or whatever


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> How can you hook up hose with a g and 1/4 fitting to a kitchen sink? I am going to blitz my rads and want to be able to give them a good hot water flush afterward. Tried those hide and funnel method and I have to fight gravity so hard I barely get a trickle through.
> 
> I mean a normal hose I can put a fitting on not a garden hose or whatever


something like this:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/

you need to find an adapter to your tap (assuming it have some thread on it) so you can use whatever tube diameter you have fittings to hook it up to the rad and the tap. It works quite well.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Your joking, right?


No Im srs


----------



## meo95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it! I like me some crammed up PC lol. Tightening those fittings must have been a pain


I don't understand the meaning.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> How can you hook up hose with a g and 1/4 fitting to a kitchen sink? I am going to blitz my rads and want to be able to give them a good hot water flush afterward. Tried those hide and funnel method and I have to fight gravity so hard I barely get a trickle through.
> 
> I mean a normal hose I can put a fitting on not a garden hose or whatever


Just put a port under a running tap,hooking it up to the tap itself is not a good idea,mains pressure can easily rupture it


----------



## ydrogios

My water cooling system.Then next upgrade it will be the same fans everywhere and the change of the 24pin cable with sleeved Black - Yellow color

http://s278.photobucket.com/user/ydrogios/media/IMG_20150417_200949_zps53ew8lk8.jpg.html

http://s278.photobucket.com/user/ydrogios/media/IMG_20150417_200941_zpsv5nn2kfk.jpg.html

http://s278.photobucket.com/user/ydrogios/media/IMG_20150417_200932_zpse8ap7trd.jpg.html

http://s278.photobucket.com/user/ydrogios/media/IMG_20150417_200925_zpsnuuskoed.jpg.html

http://s278.photobucket.com/user/ydrogios/media/IMG_20150417_195507_zpsadaippsh.jpg.html


----------



## Ramzinho

I mean totally no offense by this. but the amount of SkunkWorks' like builds is seriously increasing







.i think i've seen like 10 similar builds in the past week or so







.. Didn't know there are a lot of Jayz2c here


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I mean totally no offense by this. but the amount of SkunkWorks' like builds is seriously increasing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .i think i've seen like 10 similar builds in the past week or so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Didn't know there are a lot of Jayz2c here


Maybe his build inspired many ppl


----------



## ydrogios

The colors in my rig is from my football team.Aek Athens!!!!!!


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meo95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it! I like me some crammed up PC lol. Tightening those fittings must have been a pain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand the meaning.
Click to expand...

Of?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I mean totally no offense by this. but the amount of SkunkWorks' like builds is seriously increasing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .i think i've seen like 10 similar builds in the past week or so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Didn't know there are a lot of Jayz2c here


If you are referring to me (and I am sure you are), the big difference is that I built my computer in the LD Cooling PC-V8 (not exactly the same as the CL SMA8), also, he uses gun-metal and yellow, I used black and yellow. Even though, his build was the inspiration to do the mods I did to my case. It looks good though, don't you think?


----------



## catbuster

@Gobigorgohome Yes looks awesome


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If you are referring to me (and I am sure you are), the big difference is that I built my computer in the LD Cooling PC-V8 (not exactly the same as the CL SMA8), also, he uses gun-metal and yellow, I used black and yellow. Even though, his build was the inspiration to do the mods I did to my case. *It looks good though, don't you think?*


You done some nice work there. It does look good. I have a question though.

You have two loops but you didnt include the gpu? Is there a reason for this?

I imagine a 290x lightning gets some big overclocks with a http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-lightning-acetal-nickel.html


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> @Gobigorgohome Yes looks awesome


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> You done some nice work there. It does look good. I have a question though.
> 
> You have two loops but you didnt include the gpu? Is there a reason for this?
> 
> I imagine a 290x lightning gets some big overclocks with a http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/ati-radeon-full-cover-blocks/radeon-rx-200-series/ek-fc-r9-290x-lightning-acetal-nickel.html


It is actually just one loop, everything is connected underneath the mid-plate, if I want I could split it into two loops later on if I want to add water blocks on my GPU(s).
The main reason I did not include the GPU is that the waterblock for the card is hard to come by (at least in Norway) and the cost does not really make it worth it for me, the GPU sits at 65C at full load, with watercooling it would be around 50C (not that big of a difference), I do not overclock my GPU(s) so I do not need waterblocks on them if the air-cooler is good enough (the Lightning card have a pretty good air-cooler). Also, I am not sure how long I am going to have the Lightning R9 290X, so it is kind of waste of time building it into the loop when it might gets changed out in one week or one month.

As I said earlier in this post, I am not into overclocking of GPUs, in my experience (at least with quadfire R9 290X) it got more unstable and the framerates did not justify overclocking the cards, just more heat and power-draw (of course a few FPS too, but too little for me). Kicking back to just one card was a mistake though, trying to get my hands on another R9 290/290X second-hand so that I can game at 4K.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is actually just one loop, everything is connected underneath the mid-plate, if I want I could split it into two loops later on if I want to add water blocks on my GPU(s).
> The main reason I did not include the GPU is that the waterblock for the card is hard to come by (at least in Norway) and the cost does not really make it worth it for me, the GPU sits at 65C at full load, with watercooling it would be around 50C (not that big of a difference), I do not overclock my GPU(s) so I do not need waterblocks on them if the air-cooler is good enough (the Lightning card have a pretty good air-cooler). Also, I am not sure how long I am going to have the Lightning R9 290X, so it is kind of waste of time building it into the loop when it might gets changed out in one week or one month.
> 
> As I said earlier in this post, I am not into overclocking of GPUs, in my experience (at least with quadfire R9 290X) it got more unstable and the framerates did not justify overclocking the cards, just more heat and power-draw (of course a few FPS too, but too little for me). Kicking back to just one card was a mistake though, trying to get my hands on another R9 290/290X second-hand so that I can game at 4K.


logical reasons not to oc the gpu. You did spend a lot of time / money on aesthetics though. It would look that much better with a gpu block.

Maybe when you upgrade gpus you can add it. Still very nice work.!


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*


Nice:thumb:
more picture plss


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> logical reasons not to oc the gpu. You did spend a lot of time / money on aesthetics though. It would look that much better with a gpu block.
> 
> Maybe when you upgrade gpus you can add it. Still very nice work.!


I have my reasons not to OC, other people do what they want to.







I actually disagree with you on the aesthetics of the water block, one water block looks bad in my mind, two or more look good. I also really like the look of the air-cooler on the R9 290X Lightning.
Unless there will be some dramatically changes to GPU-prices it will be a long time before I upgrade I am afraid, too expensive right now, mediocre GPUs to high end prices.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> Nice:thumb:
> more picture plss


Head over to my build log to see more: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520130/re-build-log-black-edition-ld-cooling-pc-v8-rivbe-4930k-r9-290x/0_100#post_23827427


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ran into a little snag. But overall turning out like my Mind had imagined from the start. Hope you like.

TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Broke my cherry. First bends. Vertical piece of the bend to pump lines up with vertical part going down into fill-port.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> *I have my reasons not to OC, other people do what they want to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * I actually disagree with you on the aesthetics of the water block, one water block looks bad in my mind, two or more look good. I also really like the look of the air-cooler on the R9 290X Lightning.
> Unless there will be some dramatically changes to GPU-prices it will be a long time before I upgrade I am afraid, too expensive right now, mediocre GPUs to high end prices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Head over to my build log to see more: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520130/re-build-log-black-edition-ld-cooling-pc-v8-rivbe-4930k-r9-290x/0_100#post_23827427


I was saying I understand your reasons not to oc the gpu. The gains are tiny. I can see why ppl dont oc at all these days. Aesthetics are subjective as far as gpu block looks. I wont argue what you like. You obviously have a pretty good eye.

You did create something special there though. You should be very proud.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Leak tested all last night


----------



## Hambone07si

Hell yeah!! Went home for lunch and just as I was leaving to go back to work, Fedex pulled in behind me. Just got my Kryograhic blocks and Triple 360mm Rad. Now I'm ready to install tonight. COME ON 3:30pm LOL













Here's the Cpu block I already had not from the EK L240 Kit, The EK Supreme HF (high flow)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Kyrographics blocks are sooo sessi


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Kyrographics blocks are sooo sessi


Thanks









I actually really like the look of these ones. A LOT of people were complaining about them for some reason, but I'm happy. Nickle plated would have been nice but hey, for $60 each I couldn't complain one bit.

Man, I'm really thinking about going and getting the Core X9 case tho to put all this in. That thing just has so much room. HMMM???


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If you are referring to me (and I am sure you are), the big difference is that I built my computer in the LD Cooling PC-V8 (not exactly the same as the CL SMA8), also, he uses gun-metal and yellow, I used black and yellow. Even though, his build was the inspiration to do the mods I did to my case. It looks good though, don't you think?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UePtoxDhJSw


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Hell yeah!! Went home for lunch and just as I was leaving to go back to work, Fedex pulled in behind me. Just got my Kryograhic blocks and Triple 360mm Rad. Now I'm ready to install tonight. COME ON 3:30pm LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No obtrusive branding over all that gorgeous copper, and at that angle, it looks like the acrylic is not even there. This is the way all blocks with acrylic should look...no silly circles. Now I will wait for incoming comments of damnation from the die hard EK fans.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Hell yeah!! Went home for lunch and just as I was leaving to go back to work, Fedex pulled in behind me. Just got my Kryograhic blocks and Triple 360mm Rad. Now I'm ready to install tonight. COME ON 3:30pm LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Cpu block I already had not from the EK L240 Kit, The EK Supreme HF (high flow)


A shame the aio's are going away. It does look good but I understand the need to go w/ custom. I could not stand the aio's of my stock gpu's. Even if you could maintain proper temps and the housing looks smexy. I actually wanna to make a custom case w/ pcie risers to show off the cards in a stacked layout (with the fans pointing towards the window) using an matx layout and enough fan openings for the two gpu aoi rads and possibly an h100 or cm 280 aio.




If you go for the X9, I'm sure it can take up a lot of stuff


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> No obtrusive branding over all that gorgeous copper, and at that angle, it looks like the acrylic is not even there. This is the way all blocks with acrylic should look...no silly circles. Now I will wait for incoming comments of damnation from the die hard EK fans.


Well I wouldn't consider myself I diehard EK fan, but I think the the circles can add a nice look to otherwise overly plain blocks. Look at the nickel Supremacy EVO for instance:


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I wouldn't consider myself I diehard EK fan, but I think the the circles can add a nice look to otherwise overly plain blocks. Look at the nickel Supremacy EVO for instance:


That is where personal taste comes in, I prefer the clean look. By a mile.


----------



## wermad

C'mon, a little crop circle luv once in a while is cool


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> That is where personal taste comes in, I prefer the clean look. By a mile.


Exactly, I love the non-CSQ (the top one) that I have in my personal rig. I'm putting the CSQ block (bottom one) in the folding rig, not my cup of tea but still a very sharp block.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I wouldn't consider myself I diehard EK fan, but I think the the circles can add a nice look to otherwise overly plain blocks. Look at the nickel Supremacy EVO for instance:


thinking about to upgrade from nexxxus xp³ light to evo 2011 but it wouldn´t be worth it only for 4-5 degree´s...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Talking about blocks:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/

Beautiful and excellent performer. I particularly like the grey one (Pro Copper Anthracite). If I didn´t have a MIPS block going in "grey matter" I would get that one.


----------



## Suferbus

My Corsair 900d, X99 Build, almost complete!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> My Corsair 900d, X99 Build, almost complete!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Reminds me of this Paul Gilbert video.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> My Corsair 900d, X99 Build, almost complete!


Mustard and Ketchup


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If you are referring to me (and I am sure you are), the big difference is that I built my computer in the LD Cooling PC-V8 (not exactly the same as the CL SMA8), also, he uses gun-metal and yellow, I used black and yellow. Even though, his build was the inspiration to do the mods I did to my case. It looks good though, don't you think?


J2C Skunkworks acrylic work much cleaner--big difference.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Mustard and Ketchup


So...it is the hamburger build?























do you have a flow meter on that red loop @Suferbus? Just curious to see what flow are you getting there. Nice job.


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Mustard and Ketchup


Thats funny you said that, I named the build, "Heinz"


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> So...it is the hamburger build


That sounds delicious! It actually reminds me of Ferrari colors.


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Reminds me of this Paul Gilbert video.


LOL!!


----------



## Suferbus

In all honesty, I added the red because of Jayz Skunkworks. I had planned this build scheme before he posted pics of Skunkworks, and I just refused to be exactly same, but at the same time did not want to give up the yellow, so I added red to one of my loops. Honestly didnt think of the ketchup and mustard look, but that is what i ended up with. 6 grand of katchup and mustard. Yay


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> So...it is the hamburger build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you have a flow meter on that red loop @Suferbus? Just curious to see what flow are you getting there. Nice job.


Actually, I was calling this build, "Hamburglar" at first


----------



## Suferbus

I have not tested any flow rates yet. I literally just buttoned up the wiring last night following a 48hr leak test. I plan on testing flow rates, oc'ing and benching this weekend. I am running 2 separate D5 Variants.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A shame the aio's are going away. It does look good but I understand the need to go w/ custom. I could not stand the aio's of my stock gpu's. Even if you could maintain proper temps and the housing looks smexy. I actually wanna to make a custom case w/ pcie risers to show off the cards in a stacked layout (with the fans pointing towards the window) using an matx layout and enough fan openings for the two gpu aoi rads and possibly an h100 or cm 280 aio.
> 
> If you go for the X9, I'm sure it can take up a lot of stuff


Yeah, I agree. The Triple AIO setup in my case now does look pretty dame good for "AIO's" LOL. They do work great with how I got it all setup. Max load temps of 45c on both Gtx780ti's @ 1241mhz with 69 degree ambients. Couldn't complain about that one bit, but you know me, I WANT CUSTOM WATER!! As you know from buying my 3 Gtx480's with the Danger Den blocks back what, 3 years ago now or more? LOL. I miss those, but don't miss the power it took to run them HAHAHA







.. I will just be way more happy with the custom loop and looks of that over the 3 AIO's. It's cool, but not my cup of tea really, and to get that good of performance out of them, I have to run them in push/pull with fans pretty much 100%, so it wasn't the quietest setup, but not terrible either.

Custom loop in the 540 air with a 360mm front and 240mm top rad setup will look pretty slick IMO. Having 2 pumps in the loop will be nice and safe. Temps should be even better than 45c a max load. It will for sure be quieter than the AIO's and I'm going to start with just Push for now, and the EK PE rads are great for low rpm fans at 800-1000rpm which will be almost silent pc







.

I just love building and messing with my pc all the time so I can't stop lol. I know a LOT of you guys are the same too. This is why we all are here on OCN so much..

How do you like that X9? Is it a sweet case? I messed with it for about 5 min at the store and looked pretty cool. Tons of room for anything. Would you recommend it to someone?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> No obtrusive branding over all that gorgeous copper, and at that angle, it looks like the acrylic is not even there. This is the way all blocks with acrylic should look...no silly circles. Now I will wait for incoming comments of damnation from the die hard EK fans.


Yeah, it's very clean looking that's for sure. I like it a lot. Looks even better in person than the uploaded pic show. Don't get me wrong, I'm a EK fan as well but no harm at all going with this block over a EK, especially for only $60 each.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> In all honesty, I added the red because of Jayz Skunkworks. I had planned this build scheme before he posted pics of Skunkworks, and I just refused to be exactly same, but at the same time did not want to give up the yellow, so I added red to one of my loops. Honestly didnt think of the ketchup and mustard look, but that is what i ended up with. 6 grand of katchup and mustard. Yay










I find this both sad and hilarious. Sorry.


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find this both sad and hilarious. Sorry.


You find what hilarious? The fact that I didnt want to completely redesign my build, but at the same time didnt want it to look exactly the same? Nothing really funny there that I can see, especially since the colors for my company are yellow and red.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> You find what hilarious? The fact that I didnt want to completely redesign my build, but at the same time didnt want it to look exactly the same? Nothing really funny there that I can see, especially since the colors for my company are yellow and red.


That you didn't realize until after a ketchup and mustard thing, and then started calling it Hamburglar. The way you said it made it sound like you were sad about it. But calling your computer that is a comical thing, therefore I found it funny.


----------



## Suferbus

I even returned all 3 ek waterblocks for my 980s and went with Alphacool blocks to steer away from being similar. I had been considering that swap anyway because i like the alphacool 3 way sli bridge better, but skunkworks sealed the deal. I also added a 2nd rad to my gpu loop as well to change things up.


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> That you didn't realize until after a ketchup and mustard thing, and then started calling it Hamburglar. The way you said it made it sound like you were sad about it. But calling your computer that is a comical thing, therefore I found it funny.


Oh ya, I am sad about it. I didnt realize Mayhems pastel colors looked so closely to mustard and catsup, and also because the last time I spoke with Jay, he said it looked like mustard and catsup too, so I have it coming to me from all angles.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Oh ya, I am sad about it. I didnt realize Mayhems pastel colors looked so closely to mustard and catsup, and also because the last time I spoke with Jay, he said it looked like mustard and catsup too, so I have it coming to me from all angles.


Being that I live in the home of Heinz ketchup (Pittsburgh), I firmly approve of the color. And now I am hungry, very hungry.


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Being that I live in the home of Heinz ketchup (Pittsburgh), I firmly approve of the color. And now I am hungry, very hungry.


Well, I guess this seals the deal. I am going to tear off a couple of Heinz catsup and mustard stickers and use them as case badges.








My other option would be to tag a large "m" on the side of my case, and write, "Over a billion served" underneath it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Well, I guess this seals the deal. I am going to tear off a couple of Heinz catsup and mustard stickers and use them as case badges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My other option would be to tag a large "m" on the side of my case, and write, "Over a billion served" underneath it.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> My Corsair 900d, X99 Build, almost complete!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't see any relation to skunk-works when i see this, your bends alone already makes your build unique. I personally think you should have gone with what you wanted at first, EK blocks would have looked so much better, and a parallel 3 way SLI bridge/connector (or whatever they call that thing lol), would also make it look more like your work, and not some copy paste.

The above is just my opinion, don't take it too serious







. I'm eager to see what it looks like with lights ON


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> I don't see any relation to skunk-works when i see this, your bends alone already makes your build unique. I personally think you should have gone with what you wanted at first, EK blocks would have looked so much better, and a parallel 3 way SLI bridge/connector (or whatever they call that thing lol), would also make it look more like your work, and not some copy paste.
> 
> The above is just my opinion, don't take it too serious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm eager to see what it looks like with lights ON


Yea just cause he's popular on youtube doesn't mean he copyrighted black+yellow builds!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> I don't see any relation to skunk-works when i see this, your bends alone already makes your build unique. I personally think you should have gone with what you wanted at first, EK blocks would have looked so much better, and a parallel 3 way SLI bridge/connector (or whatever they call that thing lol), would also make it look more like your work, and not some copy paste.
> 
> The above is just my opinion, don't take it too serious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm eager to see what it looks like with lights ON


^ So Much This.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Yeah, I agree. The Triple AIO setup in my case now does look pretty dame good for "AIO's" LOL. They do work great with how I got it all setup. Max load temps of 45c on both Gtx780ti's @ 1241mhz with 69 degree ambients. Couldn't complain about that one bit, but you know me, I WANT CUSTOM WATER!! As you know from buying my 3 Gtx480's with the Danger Den blocks back what, 3 years ago now or more? LOL. I miss those, but don't miss the power it took to run them HAHAHA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I will just be way more happy with the custom loop and looks of that over the 3 AIO's. It's cool, but not my cup of tea really, and to get that good of performance out of them, I have to run them in push/pull with fans pretty much 100%, so it wasn't the quietest setup, but not terrible either.
> 
> Custom loop in the 540 air with a 360mm front and 240mm top rad setup will look pretty slick IMO. Having 2 pumps in the loop will be nice and safe. Temps should be even better than 45c a max load. It will for sure be quieter than the AIO's and I'm going to start with just Push for now, and the EK PE rads are great for low rpm fans at 800-1000rpm which will be almost silent pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I just love building and messing with my pc all the time so I can't stop lol. I know a LOT of you guys are the same too. This is why we all are here on OCN so much..
> 
> How do you like that X9? Is it a sweet case? I messed with it for about 5 min at the store and looked pretty cool. Tons of room for anything. Would you recommend it to someone?
> Yeah, it's very clean looking that's for sure. I like it a lot. Looks even better in person than the uploaded pic show. Don't get me wrong, I'm a EK fan as well but no harm at all going with this block over a EK, especially for only $60 each.


Oh yeah, I remember you. Sadly, the 480s got traded for some special newer cards but that deal went down in disaster and I got the short end of the staff (







). I've been through a bunch of setups since then and I'm currently sitting on a new one and hope to keep it like that for a while.

I like the x9 simply because of the amount of rad you can fit in it. I think I've probably maxed it out without stacking two of them. If you want a massive loop and don't wanna spend CL money on a case, its a sweet buy. Newegg has $5 off, free shipping, and $10 mir. They went oos quickly but it looks like stock has been replenished and the stores (ie MC and Frys) are getting inventory. Some ppl were desperate to get this case and I understand why. Quality isn't a big priority and you may have to make some mods if you wanna take it to the extreme, but its a nice canvas to work with.

Be warned, TT rebates are a joke and their cs sucks. If you're buying this case, its not perfect and for the price, it is what it is. If you can overlook this and just realize the wc-potential it has, its a great case.

Here's mine, I think I'm done ....













Join the club (in sig) if you end up getting one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> My Corsair 900d, X99 Build, almost complete!


Question, how is the liquid entering your gpu's? I'm scratching my head on this one unless i missed something.

Btw, I'm a big fan of yellow (and green!), and it does look great w/ the red. First thing that pops into your head is dual loop


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> I don't see any relation to skunk-works when i see this, your bends alone already makes your build unique. I personally think you should have gone with what you wanted at first, EK blocks would have looked so much better, and a parallel 3 way SLI bridge/connector (or whatever they call that thing lol), would also make it look more like your work, and not some copy paste.
> 
> The above is just my opinion, don't take it too serious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm eager to see what it looks like with lights ON


Thanks! I appreciate it. I really do like the alphacool blocks on my 980's though, i think i might be the only 1 though! lol. I am adding the lighting this weekend, 200 rgb led's with remote control. I also have to hook my fan controller up, these rad fans are runnin 100% right now, ugh!


----------



## Suferbus

That is another reason I went with dual colors, that way there is no mistaking dual loops. I have a hidden line coming out of the front 280mm rad, going up the back of the chassis, into the top 360mm rad. Then all you can see is the exit from the rad to the alphacool 3-way sli water cooling bridge, and out the bottom to the res.


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Oh yeah, I remember you. Sadly, the 480s got traded for some special newer cards but that deal went down in disaster and I got the short end of the staff (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I've been through a bunch of setups since then and I'm currently sitting on a new one and hope to keep it like that for a while.
> 
> I like the x9 simply because of the amount of rad you can fit in it. I think I've probably maxed it out without stacking two of them. If you want a massive loop and don't wanna spend CL money on a case, its a sweet buy. Newegg has $5 off, free shipping, and $10 mir. They went oos quickly but it looks like stock has been replenished and the stores (ie MC and Frys) are getting inventory. Some ppl were desperate to get this case and I understand why. Quality isn't a big priority and you may have to make some mods if you wanna take it to the extreme, but its a nice canvas to work with.
> 
> Be warned, TT rebates are a joke and their cs sucks. If you're buying this case, its not perfect and for the price, it is what it is. If you can overlook this and just realize the wc-potential it has, its a great case.
> 
> Here's mine, I think I'm done ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Join the club (in sig) if you end up getting one.
> Question, how is the liquid entering your gpu's? I'm scratching my head on this one unless i missed something.
> 
> Btw, I'm a big fan of yellow (and green!), and it does look great w/ the red. First thing that pops into your head is dual loop


That is another reason I went with dual colors, that way there is no mistaking dual loops. I have a hidden line coming out of the front 280mm rad, going up the back of the chassis, into the top 360mm rad. Then all you can see is the exit from the rad to the alphacool 3-way sli water cooling bridge, and out the bottom to the res.


----------



## wermad

Noyce


----------



## emsj86

Waiting on sound card backplate, second gpu cables, and custom sli bridge. But installed second gpu, some minor changes with paint and vinyal and ek plexi sli. Enthoo pro case. May need to add 120 or 240 mm rad as it works but gpu never gets above 47. But cpu on intel is now maxing 85 so may drop it down to 4.6 and lower voltage. . .


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Waiting on sound card backplate, second gpu cables, and custom sli bridge. But installed second gpu, some minor changes with paint and vinyal and ek plexi sli. Enthoo pro case. May need to add 120 or 240 mm rad as it works but gpu never gets above 47. But cpu on intel is now maxing 85 so may drop it down to 4.6 and lower voltage.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> .
> .


Burn it to the Ground. 85C.

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

All layed out and ready to go







HAHA. Now the question, put it all in the 540 air, or go buy a X9 and go to town and add my quad in it too LOL


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> All layed out and ready to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HAHA. Now the question, put it all in the 540 air, or go buy a X9 and go to town and add my quad in it too LOL


"If it fits in the budget, you must do it" - Johnny Cochrane, Defense Attorney


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Burn it to the Ground. 85C. On a few months after summer (which means alit more over time) I will burn it well just the case as I will be getting a caselabs s8 or the one you have as the side bottom rad is so sexy
> 
> TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Budget isn't a problem for that. It's only $160 at microcenter and I'm going there in a little bit for more connectors and fittings. What you think wermad? go for the X9 or stuff it all into the 540 air? Or anyone else too, what do you think about the 2 cases? I have the 540 air now, but can buy the X9 in 30min from now.


----------



## wermad

If you have plans to expand your loop, x9 is a nice setup. If you don't, keep the 540 and invest in something else


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Waiting on sound card backplate, second gpu cables, and custom sli bridge. But installed second gpu, some minor changes with paint and vinyal and ek plexi sli. Enthoo pro case. May need to add 120 or 240 mm rad as it works but gpu never gets above 47. But cpu on intel is now maxing 85 so may drop it down to 4.6 and lower voltage. . .


Nice build


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Waiting on sound card backplate, second gpu cables, and custom sli bridge. But installed second gpu, some minor changes with paint and vinyal and ek plexi sli. Enthoo pro case. May need to add 120 or 240 mm rad as it works but gpu never gets above 47. But cpu on intel is now maxing 85 so may drop it down to 4.6 and lower voltage.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build
Click to expand...

Yes it is but could you please use ["spoiler"] tags to quote multiple pics? It would be much appreciated by those of us accessing OCN via our smartphones.









If you are on your phone you should find brackets on the 2nd page of your "Sym" button.









I am not intentionally singling you out. There are other offenders of the multiple pic quoting. You just happened to be the most recent.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you have plans to expand your loop, x9 is a nice setup. If you don't, keep the 540 and invest in something else


OK, I'll just put in the 540 air first and see how the loop does. Then I'll go from there if I need more or what not. I have the quad Fezer if I need it. It cooled the 980x and the 3 480's no prob just on that 480 but it's like double almost triple thick. These rads should do on the 4790k and 780ti sli. Well off to microcenter now. back in a bit.


----------



## LandonAaron

What is the safe operating temperature for those voltage step down cables for fans. I just got some Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm fans in, and testing them out with the 7v step-down cable and I measured 160 degrees Fahrenheit on one of them. Too hot to touch, and worried the cable is about to start melting or catch on fire.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I was saying I understand your reasons not to oc the gpu. The gains are tiny. I can see why ppl dont oc at all these days. Aesthetics are subjective as far as gpu block looks. I wont argue what you like. You obviously have a pretty good eye.
> 
> You did create something special there though. You should be very proud.


I know you were saying that, I did not know if you were being sarcastic or not, guess you was not.







Of the four water cooling builds I have done this is my favorite by far. Thank you for saying I have a pretty good eye.

I really like that you like it, I am very happy with it myself. I just have to say that I am a bit surprised that I have not mounted casters on any case before, it is so simple moving this heavy thing around fully assembled.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UePtoxDhJSw


Haha, yes. I actually wondered on doing a custom grill in the front of the case to "hide" the 420 radiator in front, make my own grill with a design I would like, might do it in the feature, have some 1,2mm thick steel plates dusting as we speak.







Might give it a try later.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> J2C Skunkworks acrylic work much cleaner--big difference.


I did not try to do what he did, I tried to make my machine be the best I could create (Skunkworks was an inspiration, yes), I am not coping him. I am happy with my result and that is what counts.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> What is the safe operating temperature for those voltage step down cables for fans. I just got some Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm fans in, and testing them out with the 7v step-down cable and I measured 160 degrees Fahrenheit on one of them. Too hot to touch, and worried the cable is about to start melting or catch on fire.


I'm assuming that the step down cables are just inline resisters. If you aren't afraid of doing some custom wiring, you can just use the red (+12v) and yellow(+5v) wires from your power supply and get a 7v difference to supply to your fans. In my opinion it is a much better solution compared to using in line resisters.

Edit: even better get yourself a dedicated fan controller. I use one like this with a couple fan splitter cables...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/nzxt-sentry-mesh-fan-controller-with-five-30w-channels.html


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I'm assuming that the step down cables are just inline resisters. If you aren't afraid of doing some custom wiring, you can just use the red (+12v) and yellow(+5v) wires from your power supply and get a 7v difference to supply to your fans. In my opinion it is a much better solution compared to using in line resisters.
> 
> Edit: even better get yourself a dedicated fan controller. I use one like this with a couple fan splitter cables...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/nzxt-sentry-mesh-fan-controller-with-five-30w-channels.html


How would I do that?

I have some fan controllers. But these are 9 fans connected to Mo-Ra 3 radiator, so I am just exploring options of how to control them. I don't really want to use single channel fan controllers and turn 9 knobs at a time to turn them up or down. I think I am ultimately going to get a Aquero 5 LT to control them, but looking at the cheaper alternatives first. Namely running them 24/7 at 7V, or running them at the full 12v speed and having them hooked up to toggle on/off switch and running is passive most of the time and full speed while gaming/benching.


----------



## emsj86

It alittle. But I'm running a i7 4790k at 4.8 1.3v, 2 gtx 780 at 1200mhz with a seasonic 850 watt bronze psu. Would my 8 other fans leds and pump cause it to be too much for the psu. Since I installed my sli setup today I've had two anti surges today. Tried a few other aces but they weren't sure if my watercool pump and etc would cause too much wattage for the psu.


----------



## wermad

@land9n

Get the mix2. The mesh and mix have been known to have issues.

@ems

Your gpu's will be the biggest draw. Your whole system sans gpu probably draws ~200w.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @land9n
> 
> Get the mix2. The mesh and mix have been known to have issues.
> 
> @ems
> 
> Your gpu's will be the biggest draw. Your whole system sans gpu probably draws ~200w.


The sentry Mix 2 is a great one. I previously owned the sentry 2, but that thing was crap.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> How would I do that?
> 
> I have some fan controllers. But these are 9 fans connected to Mo-Ra 3 radiator, so I am just exploring options of how to control them. I don't really want to use single channel fan controllers and turn 9 knobs at a time to turn them up or down. I think I am ultimately going to get a Aquero 5 LT to control them, but looking at the cheaper alternatives first. Namely running them 24/7 at 7V, or running them at the full 12v speed and having them hooked up to toggle on/off switch and running is passive most of the time and full speed while gaming/benching.


This video shows how to make switches, but basically you hook your fans ground to *red* and fans +12v to *yellow*. Since your fans are only looking for a difference of voltage and are not grounded through the fan housing, you get your 7v.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1j--Lmfrrd4

EDIT: Had my colors backwards. Here is a good link for a real explination...

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article6-page1.html


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It alittle. But I'm running a i7 4790k at 4.8 1.3v, 2 gtx 780 at 1200mhz with a seasonic 850 watt bronze psu. Would my 8 other fans leds and pump cause it to be too much for the psu. Since I installed my sli setup today I've had two anti surges today. Tried a few other aces but they weren't sure if my watercool pump and etc would cause too much wattage for the psu.


With my 4790K @ 4.7ghz and 2 x 780ti Sli @ 1201 pulls around 700w with all my fans and 3 AIO's. Just to let you know. I would get at least a 1000w psu for your setup


----------



## emsj86

Ok thanks. Been asking around an when it comes to psus you get so many answers that our different and wasn't sure with tinge watercooling parts how much it made a difference. So far at stock gpu speeds and voltage I've haven't had it happen so it seems as the bronze 850w can't cut it. Looks as I I will have to find a 1000w to be safe. Not sure if they make a short one as I can't go much bigger than what I have now bc of my bottom rad


----------



## guitarhero23

Hey guys looking for a quick answer while I run some hardline tubes. I noticed I put the Supremacy on this way:



Where the holes are at a 90 degree angle from the GPU. Performance is not effected much by which way you have the block rotated right? I'm assuming not much if any but I'm getting paranoid because I just looked at 5 other s5 builds and they all did it where the two port holes are running parallel,

Thanks in advance! First answer = +1!


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Hey guys looking for a quick answer while I run some hardline tubes. I noticed I put the Supremacy on this way:
> 
> 
> 
> Where the holes are at a 90 degree angle from the GPU. Performance is not effected much by which way you have the block rotated right? I'm assuming not much if any but I'm getting paranoid because I just looked at 5 other s5 builds and they all did it where the two port holes are running parallel,
> 
> Thanks in advance! First answer = +1!


They say that a 90 degree counter clockwise rotation is best. but im runing mine vertical like you and its working just fine. 75C MAX at 4.7GHz/1.248v.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> They say that a 90 degree counter clockwise rotation is best. but im runing mine vertical like you and its working just fine. 75C MAX at 4.7GHz/1.248v.


Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Last I heard, the 90° is suited for Lga2011/v3 cpu's. I know I had mine rotated by mistake and saw ~5c increase.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Hey guys looking for a quick answer while I run some hardline tubes. I noticed I put the Supremacy on this way:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the holes are at a 90 degree angle from the GPU. Performance is not effected much by which way you have the block rotated right? I'm assuming not much if any but I'm getting paranoid because I just looked at 5 other s5 builds and they all did it where the two port holes are running parallel,
> 
> Thanks in advance! First answer = +1!


check here mate:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/5/

honestly. Do whatever you want to look good. The 1 C will not do any difference while aesthetically (since you are taking such care with your build) the orientation of the block will make a difference.


----------



## ALT F4

Maybe one of you can donate $0.02

I don't know what else I could say to have him understand. At least I know there is a large amount of people here who understand and may be willing to waste/spend more time than I did.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ok thanks. Been asking around an when it comes to psus you get so many answers that our different and wasn't sure with tinge watercooling parts how much it made a difference. So far at stock gpu speeds and voltage I've haven't had it happen so it seems as the bronze 850w can't cut it. Looks as I I will have to find a 1000w to be safe. Not sure if they make a short one as I can't go much bigger than what I have now bc of my bottom rad


I got a Coolermaster V1000 for that exact reason i wanted a 1000-1200 psu that was short..all psu's are 190mm long at that wattage except the V1000 is just 170mm long..a great. length..and a very good psu too

I wanted to make room in my 750 D for 140mm fans down bottom

I mounted my block with 90' ccw roration for aesthetics of loop..just a bonus it gets a mere. 0.8c improvment
see sig for pics


----------



## fleetfeather

CM V1000 is a great unit. Seasonic KM3 platform based, all black cables, 170mm long, free shipping on any RMA

I used to own one, but couldn't justify keeping it when I was running on iGPU for 3 months lol


----------



## wermad

I had two in my quad 7970 lightning setup. Sold one and kept to other, ran two 280x's and then three 290s. Sold it since it was never gonna handle the psu picky 295x2 in quad-fire.


----------



## Hambone07si

Got the water blocks installed and now putting the rads in. I'm starting to not like the amount of room in the 540 air tho and the pump/res combo is gonna be a PITA


----------



## wermad

Don't fit in the psu chamber?


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## Bertovzki

@guitarhero23..you might find this interesting read..there is some talent in this artical...and discribes your question in great detail.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014

re your block orientation...if you look at my sig ull see why i orientated in the same way ..because if you think about it carefully it is hard to get the clean 90, bends i did if orientated the usual way..it can be done and i had plan..but the way i did it is more flowing aesthetically..depends on your gpu block alignment above. cpu block..and if you are using fittings ...i did not want to use any fittings.
Also i did the bends like the cpu to mobo with the more complex multi 90' bends instead of ie..straight from one port to the other..in a single arch shape with 2 bends instead of the 4 i made..for aesthetics reasons

I re do center tubes latter in log with my new jig i made and get very squre bends ..looks like ur got about same distances in ur rig


----------



## corysti

Anyone else having problems with performance pcs getting the correct product to you. For two weeks I've been trying to get 12mm petg tubing from them and the first set was 16mm tubing then this week as been 12mm crystal link. Guess they are under a little stressed with frozencpu closed.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Anyone else having problems with performance pcs getting the correct product to you. For two weeks I've been trying to get 12mm petg tubing from them and the first set was 16mm tubing then this week as been 12mm crystal link. Guess they are under a little stressed with frozencpu closed.


i have not had those issues with them at all. Granted I have not ordered tubing though lately.


----------



## ExiZ




----------



## Mongoose135

Awesome build man. I especially like the blue tubing and the custom cables







What kind of case is it in?


----------



## ExiZ

Its a new build im doing to fit in the drawer space of my desk, the bottom half has the PSU\Disks etc. Going to cut a hole in my desk and rebate to have a acrylic window into it. A have a MO-RA3 360 rad in my porch to cool it.


----------



## Hambone07si

time for running the tubing and then leak testing. These blocks are pretty nice once installed.


----------



## emsj86

waiting on cm v1000, new cables for second gpu, sli bridge cover plate (custom), sound card back plate (custom) but here it stands thoughts ideas to make better?




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## cgull

@ hambone07si. That is going to look very neat and tidy. Those blocks do look pretty.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> waiting on cm v1000, new cables for second gpu, sli bridge cover plate (custom), sound card back plate (custom) but here it stands thoughts ideas to make better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


is this naked pastel blueberry or is it blueperry + Dye?


----------



## Cyclops

It's blueberry pie.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> @ hambone07si. That is going to look very neat and tidy. Those blocks do look pretty.


Thanks man!! It's all done now and running leak test. No leaks so far, just letting all the bubbles diminish now. Will have a done pic in a few min. Ran both pumps together and everything is GOOD









And DAME DO MY FINGERS HURT RIGHT NOW FROM COMPRESSION FITTINGS


----------



## snef




----------



## Hambone07si

HELL yeah, cpu temps dropped 15c + going to custom loop vs the H110. Time to test the gpu's now. Ambient is 71 degrees in here now. I was getting 45c - 46c max on the H55's with 68/69 ambient temp. I'll try to get my ambient temps down to the same so I can compare apples to apples. All in all I"m very happy with going back to full custom loop vs AIO's









Just ran Heaven and temps were 45/46c Load and now only hitting 36/37c Load but with ambient 2 degrees higher. So about 10c drop gong on water blocks / custom loop over the G10/H55 combos. Job well done!! And big thing is I was on push pull before on both H55's and the H110, I'm only using push on both rads right now. With the temps as low as they are, I don't even think I'll go to push/pull for any reason.

I have both pumps installed as well. The EK 2.2 is in the back side above the PSU, and the Phobya @ 80% is connected to the bottom gpu via sli connector. I have plenty of pumping power. When I was filling the loop and getting all the air out. The EK 2.2 at only 7v pushed enough. There is very little restriction in my whole loop. At 12v it was really flowing, and with both pumps, PLENTY


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> HELL yeah, cpu temps dropped 15c + going to custom loop vs the H110. Time to test the gpu's now. Ambient is 71 degrees in here now. I was getting 45c - 46c max on the H55's with 68/69 ambient temp. I'll try to get my ambient temps down to the same so I can compare apples to apples. All in all I"m very happy with going back to full custom loop vs AIO's


For some reason this reminded me of the temps I had last night. Ambient in the House was 80F.

Gaming at 4.5Ghz (De-lidded 4770k) with 1.275Core V and EVGA 780 FTW (Not overclocked)

Temps on Processor (Highest was 73c, AVG was 65C)

Temps on GPU (Idle was 38 and Spiked to 53c Max after 1hour of Playing)

Had to turn VSYNC on for MAX Payne 3, Capped it at 60FPS. If I had vSync off I was screen tearing...










Spoiler: Screenshot








Using The Compromise In my SIGGY


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Snef.. you have to gift me that build... it belongs to my an sisters.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> For some reason this reminded me of the temps I had last night. Ambient in the House was 80F.
> 
> Gaming at 4.5Ghz (De-lidded 4770k) with 1.275Core V and EVGA 780 FTW (Not overclocked)
> 
> Temps on Processor (Highest was 73c, AVG was 65C)
> 
> Temps on GPU (Idle was 38 and Spiked to 53c Max after 1hour of Playing)
> 
> Had to turn VSYNC on for MAX Payne 3, Capped it at 60FPS. If I had vSync off I was screen tearing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Screenshot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using The Compromise In my SIGGY


Well this was under full 100% stess testing on cpu that was hitting 66c, not gaming. The gpu's were also under full 100% load with no V-sync on running heaven benchmark and my idle temps are 23/24c and load was only 36/37 at FULL utilization, not V-sync capped.

If I were to start gaming now, my temps wouldn't even be close to the numbers I just posted. The cpu would be half that probably and the gpu's would be around 32-34c most likely even running close to 100% as I have a 144hz Asus Swift and run max settings so I don't hit a (V-sync cap). Your temps are warmer for sure because of 80F ambient. That's pretty high and makes temps go up a ton vs 71F.

@ Snef, your work is straight up RIDICULOUS!!!!!!!!!!! Awesome job man. I and everyone else can see the hours, days, weeks you put into a system and that's dedication for sure. Good work man


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well this was under full 100% stess testing on cpu that was hitting 66c, not gaming. The gpu's were also under full 100% load with no V-sync on running heaven benchmark and my idle temps are 23/24c and load was only 36/37 at FULL utilization, not V-sync capped.
> 
> *If I were to start gaming now, my temps wouldn't even be close to the numbers I just posted*. The cpu would be half that probably and the gpu's would be around 32-34c most likely even running close to 100% as I have a 144hz Asus Swift and run max settings so I don't hit a (V-sync cap). Your temps are warmer for sure because of 80F ambient. That's pretty high and makes temps go up a ton vs 71F.


I understand completely. The Ambient has an effect IMO of around 5c difference per 10F

Although stress test at the Ambient of 80F has yielded a Result of 78C (15min of Realbench Asus) and the max on the Gpu Was the same 53C.

Im sure if I would have let the test go on for more than 15min I would have seen... a jump of a couple C's... So I could estimate 82C after 30min once the heat fully transfered through the whole system?

TCO


----------



## Alex132

People reading their ambient in 'F and computer temps in 'C



Just use 'C for both


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> People reading their ambient in 'F and computer temps in 'C
> 
> 
> 
> Just use 'C for both


i feel you bro


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> People reading their ambient in 'F and computer temps in 'C
> 
> 
> 
> Just use 'C for both


Thank you for that. What If I don't?

TCO


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thank you for that. What If I don't?
> 
> TCO




It's just so much easier - Kelvin really needs to become the standard... but that's for another time in the future.


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thank you for that. What If I don't?


Then you look ridiculious.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 
> 
> It's just so much easier - Kelvin really needs to become the standard... but that's for another time in the future.


I understand. I am rough with C conversion from F. I will try to make it easier to understand.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> Then you look ridiculious.


That's excellent. I wouldn't want that.









TCO


----------



## wermad

Reviews use/prefer C, manufacturers use/prefer C, it's pretty much the norm as its used in forums. Stick w/ C unless off-topic tbh.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand. I am rough with C conversion from F. I will try to make it easier to understand.


IMO it's just easier to stick to 1 reading type for all the temperatures. Almost every single in-door thermometer will come with 'C or 'F toggle anyways and this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Reviews use/prefer C, manufacturers use/prefer C, it's pretty much the norm as its used in forums. Stick w/ C unless off-topic tbh.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Reviews use/prefer C, manufacturers use/prefer C, it's pretty much the norm as its used in forums. Stick w/ C unless off-topic tbh.


80F = (80-32) x5 / 9 = 26.6C

From C to F It would Be 26.6 x 9/5 + 32 = 80F

TCO

Sorry if there was offense in any of my statements.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> People reading their ambient in 'F and computer temps in 'C
> 
> 
> 
> Just use 'C for both


We that do that live in America. Most everything in temps on PC's are in C and not F. We know our temps in F but no one uses that for pc temps. Just sayin.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 80F = (80-32) x5 / 9 = 26.6C
> 
> From C to F It would Be 26.6 x 9/5 + 32 = 80F
> 
> TCO
> 
> Sorry if there was offense in any of my statements.


No harm dude







. I use the googles for a quick conversion. Or the weather ticker/widget on my phone (for local ambient).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No harm dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I use the googles for a quick conversion. Or the weather ticker/widget on my phone (for local ambient).


Yea I could do that. I would rather memorize the conversion as it is a piece of knowledge I have yet to retain lol. Built a huge computer with crazy parts and configurations... don't know how to convert C to F...







or Vise Versa









AH..... I need to get off of work..

TCO

Thanks Wermad


----------



## USMC Modder

Here's some pics from my build Project Frostbyte. I'll take some final pics tomorrow and post them in my build log.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I actually leave my phone set to metric since actually reading it that way is more accurate imo


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Here's some pics from my build Project Frostbyte. I'll take some final pics tomorrow and post them in my build log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OHH I love it really great


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> OHH I love it really great


That means a ton coming from a builder like you. Both of your new builds are epic as usual.


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm going to be making a lot more changes. This is just temporary, but it's my first time with hard tubing. When I get my GPU block, I will add Pastel Ice White.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Here's some pics from my build Project Frostbyte. I'll take some final pics tomorrow and post them in my build log.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


really nice job mate. The matching colors are great and I like the tubing routing giving weight to the clear view of the cpu block


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> really nice job mate. The matching colors are great and I like the tubing routing giving weight to the clear view of the cpu block


Thank you for that. I tried to keep it as clean as possible inside the case.


----------



## blueballs

You all got some very nice setup!!!

I'm planning to do my first custom watercooling system and i need to choose a new case.I was looking at the Enthoo Primo / is the case really worth it ?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*






snef I absolutely love your work, and this one is also awesome. But everytime I look at those SSDs, all I think of is:


----------



## guitarhero23

Didn't finish my build in time to LAN so...These look a little out of place with my old rig.


----------



## erso44

any tutorial for painting hardware stuff or case stuff?

would like to read in...


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> any tutorial for painting hardware stuff or case stuff?
> 
> would like to read in...


I think a painting thread exists, seen it at one point. I just taped those off and spray painted. Then later read about breathing holes and prayed to got spray paint didnt go in and destroy them


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> any tutorial for painting hardware stuff or case stuff?
> 
> would like to read in...


What would you like to know?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Darn Snef, that is just gorgeous.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No harm dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I use the googles for a quick conversion. Or the weather ticker/widget on my phone (for local ambient).


Me too, I get confuse with C at times. Especially if someone talks about room temp or outside temps.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> 
> snef I absolutely love your work, and this one is also awesome. But everytime I look at those SSDs, all I think of is:


hahaha what is that???

now pics with wrap installed


----------



## Hambone07si

Snef, how much is someone paying for a PC like that? That's a TON of custom work and hours involved. Just curious?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Snef, how much is someone paying for a PC like that? That's a TON of custom work and hours involved. Just curious?


very hard to tell how much..... its a lot of work


----------



## Turbz

195 days since I started my first watercooled build, but it's finally done. More pics here




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> 195 days since I started my first watercooled build, but it's finally done. More pics here
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! That is freaking sweet! Great build. That thing looks big enough to be used by the NSA.


----------



## VSG

So many inspiring builds recently









Edit: Looks like Watercool wants feedback regarding their upcoming GPU block design via survey with a contest attached: http://dev.watercool.de/limesurvey/index.php/258962/lang-en


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So many inspiring builds recently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Looks like Watercool wants feedback regarding their upcoming GPU block design via survey with a contest attached: http://dev.watercool.de/limesurvey/index.php/258962/lang-en


Nice find! Survey taken and raffle entered... 10 multiple choice questions. They only ask for email address. No other personal information required.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> very hard to tell how much..... its a lot of work


Yeah I'm sure. Is that build for yourself, or is that for a customer?


----------



## wermad

Survey done


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Yeah I'm sure. Is that build for yourself, or is that for a customer?


Gold Wings is for myself, will use it in my office

Green Carnage will be my new Gaming Rig


----------



## guitarhero23

What build has the craziest single acrylic bend? Just became curious because I was on the 5th and last 90 degree bend (for one tube) on the last tube needed for my rig and also the LAST piece I had left of my acrylic and then I broke it lol. Although I'm almost glad I did because it was getting a little sloppy near the end and I probably wouldn't have been happy with it anyway.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Gold Wings is for myself, will use it in my office
> 
> Green Carnage will be my new Gaming Rig


An office rig with a GTX 970?


----------



## Kritikill

Anyone know how old this case is, if it is manufactured well, and if it is roomy enough for WC? I have an idea for a build, but just not sure about the case.


----------



## blueballs

oh god those crazy watercooling build makes me wants to start building wc systems

http://www.overclock.net/t/1552740/getting-ready-for-my-first-watercooling-system/0_50


----------



## DarthBaggins

Measuring for my plumbing runs, the fun part will be running the hardline from the front of the mobo to the rear to the pass-throughs going to the pedestal


----------



## jagdtigger

I already have WC but seeing those builds makes me to ditch the 360mm external rad...







(i had no choice with my previous case since it had no space for rads







) Can a 120 and a 280 mm rad(30 mm thick) handle my rig(r9 290x, i5 [email protected],6GHz)?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


This is truly a work of art.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Gold Wings is for myself, will use it in my office
> 
> Green Carnage will be my new Gaming Rig


That's dope. At least while you're in your office you will be in a good mood with that thing sitting next to you. Awesome work man


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> An office rig with a GTX 970?


Facebook is demanding.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Anyone know how old this case is, if it is manufactured well, and if it is roomy enough for WC? I have an idea for a build, but just not sure about the case.


That looks like the case my gfs brother has. if it is, it has like a 200mm fan in the front, a 120 in the rear, and a spot for another 200 or 2x120s up top. If thats the one, you could make it work... but it would take some serious modifications. Do you have a list of the fans it can take or a link to the case page?

Edit: found it on new egg.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811156300

looks like youd get 2 x 240 rads in there ok. if thats all you need it should work. dunno about quality


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> That looks like the case my gfs brother has. if it is, it has like a 200mm fan in the front, a 120 in the rear, and a spot for another 200 or 2x120s up top. If thats the one, you could make it work... but it would take some serious modifications. Do you have a list of the fans it can take or a link to the case page?
> 
> Edit: found it on new egg.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811156300
> 
> looks like youd get 2 x 240 rads in there ok. if thats all you need it should work. dunno about quality


Thanks for the input. Not worried about having to mod it, was planning on it anyway.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Anyone know how old this case is, if it is manufactured well, and if it is roomy enough for WC? I have an idea for a build, but just not sure about the case.


That's a Raidmax Viper GX.

http://raidmax.com/viper-gx.html

The Raidmax web site shows a 240 AIO in the top, so it can take some water cooling at least. I like Raidmax cases, really good for budget cases with some style, usually have plenty of room and can pack things in without much if any modification and a little ingenuity.


----------



## lucasj1974

Here is my first water cooled PC. I built this one two years ago (May 2013). I followed some build logs I found on the internet......for a first attempt I couldn't have been happier.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lucasj1974*
> 
> Here is my first water cooled PC. I built this one two years ago (May 2013). I followed some build logs I found on the internet......for a first attempt I couldn't have been happier.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. I dare you to go hardline on your next build







You'll have fun!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> I already have WC but seeing those builds makes me to ditch the 360mm external rad...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i had no choice with my previous case since it had no space for rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Can a 120 and a 280 mm rad(30 mm thick) handle my rig(r9 290x, i5 [email protected],6GHz)?


with the i5 at 4.6 and the 290x is stock It should work. Thats near the minimum requirements though.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> with the i5 at 4.6 and the 290x is stock It should work. Thats near the minimum requirements though.


Then i have to keep the 360.... Thanks for the reply


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Then i have to keep the 360.... Thanks for the reply


A 120 and a 280 is more RAD than a 360. It would be better bud. That's actually almost a 480 quad.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> A 120 and a 280 is more RAD than a 360. It would be better bud. That's actually almost a 480 quad.


Even if its enough it wont fit in... Just measured it and the VRM heat sink is in the way:


And i cant place the fans on top of the case because it has a plastic cover on it....


----------



## lucasj1974

Here is my current build (2015)








. I am fairly sure I will be doing a hard tubing build (PETG) next time.....I am finally happy though with the way this turned out.


----------



## lucasj1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Nice. I dare you to go hardline on your next build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll have fun!


Thanks, and I will!!


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lucasj1974*
> 
> Here is my current build (2015)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am fairly sure I will be doing a hard tubing build (PETG) next time.....I am finally happy though with the way this turned out.


How do you like that pump with that res on it? I have that pump and used for a few years a while ago and still have it, I just hated the way to hook it up with the stock front on it with the plastic 1/2" in and out. Made me stop using it and just get a different pump. I've seen that res, just wasn't sure about buying it. I do love that pump tho. It's got TONS of pressure and flow. Maybe I'll pick that res up for it soon. Looks like it makes it one of the best setups with the mod.

Nice rig. Like the digital temp gauge inside


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> A 120 and a 280 is more RAD than a 360. It would be better bud. That's actually almost a 480 quad.


he was asking about removing the 360mm from the loop if im not mistaken, not comparing.

It is a touch more radspace but doeasnt a 290x use like 300w stock? Thats a lot of heat. 120mm + 280mm is closer to a 420mm instead of a 480.

480 is what would want. Some form of 120 x4 for oc headroom and lower fan speed.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> he was asking about removing the 360mm from the loop if im not mistaken, not comparing.
> 
> It is a touch more radspace but doeasnt a 290x use like 300w stock? Thats a lot of heat.


Yes, but since the MB VRM heat sink is in the way this plan is going into the trash...


----------



## lucasj1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> How do you like that pump with that res on it? I have that pump and used for a few years a while ago and still have it, I just hated the way to hook it up with the stock front on it with the plastic 1/2" in and out. Made me stop using it and just get a different pump. I've seen that res, just wasn't sure about buying it. I do love that pump tho. It's got TONS of pressure and flow. Maybe I'll pick that res up for it soon. Looks like it makes it one of the best setups with the mod.
> 
> Nice rig. Like the digital temp gauge inside


Thanks. I am happy with the pump/res combo...I previously had a dual bay pump/res so I feel like this is a bit of an upgrade....it definitely bleeds air _*A LOT*_ quicker!


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lucasj1974*
> 
> Here is my current build (2015)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am fairly sure I will be doing a hard tubing build (PETG) next time.....I am finally happy though with the way this turned out.


Just a suggestion. You should build this comp in your profile under rig builder. That way it gets its own happy spot in your sig and you can use that space for other junk, like touting all the clubs your in.


----------



## Hambone07si

Just loaded a few pics of the new loop all done now. I'd like to add some red led's to the perimeter of the inside lip of the case to light up the bottom of the cards some. I like how the blue lights up in your case lucusj.

Finished Loop


----------



## lucasj1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Just a suggestion. You should build this comp in your profile under rig builder. That way it gets its own happy spot in your sig and you can use that space for other junk, like touting all the clubs your in.


Now if I can figure out how to add the rig to my signature...........

Got it. Much better, thanks!


----------



## lucasj1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Just loaded a few pics of the new loop all done now. I'd like to add some red led's to the perimeter of the inside lip of the case to light up the bottom of the cards some. I like how the blue lights up in your case lucusj.
> 
> Finished Loop


I like your rig! Looks like you packed a lot of hardware in that case.... The lights in my rig are from darkside mods ( 2 blue / 2 UV ) and I bought them from dazmode.com. Dazmode is Canadian but I got them very quickly....I highly recommend them! With the exchange rate they were cheaper......


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lucasj1974*
> 
> I like your rig! Looks like you packed a lot of hardware in that case.... The lights in my rig are from darkside mods ( 2 blue / 2 UV ) and I bought them from dazmode.com. Dazmode is Canadian but I got them very quickly....I highly recommend them! With the exchange rate they were cheaper......


Thanks man. I'm almost thinking of adding in the EK PE 120 on the back exhaust fan area. I just think it would look sweet having the 360 front 240 top and 120 back. going from big to small and all facing in. Would be more for looks, but I could put it in after the 1st gpu before going to 2nd so it would be doing something. I'll check out the lights tho. Seeing your lit up like that makes me want it lit up red in mine. I had these same rel led fans in push pull before this loop and those added a lot of red light inside before.


----------



## timerwin63

So, I've been thinking recently (everything good starts with that, right?) and I've cone to the decision that I want to put custom water and the Gigabyte GB-BXi7G3-760 (the i7/GTX 760 Brix) in a Gamecube. Looking at external dimensions of both systems and making some approximations, it looks doable with a 120mm Darkside (DazMode) and a 15mm fan, but it doesn't look easy, and without both of them in my hands, it's really hard to make the call. Anyone have any input/ ideas/ internal dimensions that I can use to help me wrap my head around this idea a bit more?

Any input is appreciated.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Loop layout is done for the Vulture build.

Fully parallel.

Need to bolt everything down but this is where everything is going.





Even tho im bound to EK for the rads and only have the PE rad to chose from,there is enough room for a 60mm rad..maybe even a Monsta....


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Just loaded a few pics of the new loop all done now. I'd like to add some red led's to the perimeter of the inside lip of the case to light up the bottom of the cards some. I like how the blue lights up in your case lucusj.
> 
> Finished Loop


In my opinion you have placed the pump cleverly.

Do you have fan´s in front of you front-rad or do you cool passive?

Why do you use two sli bridge´s?


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What would you like to know?


Just what I need and how it´s done correctly.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop layout is done for the Vulture build.
> 
> Fully parallel.
> 
> Need to bolt everything down but this is where everything is going.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even tho im bound to EK for the rads and only have the PE rad to chose from,there is enough room for a 60mm rad..maybe even a Monsta....


B, Any particular reason why you chose to mount the Rad this way? i don't recall seeing anybody mounting a rad this way


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop layout is done for the Vulture build.
> 
> Fully parallel.
> 
> Need to bolt everything down but this is where everything is going.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even tho im bound to EK for the rads and only have the PE rad to chose from,there is enough room for a 60mm rad..maybe even a Monsta....
> 
> 
> 
> B, Any particular reason why you chose to mount the Rad this way? i don't recall seeing anybody mounting a rad this way
Click to expand...

They bleed easier,no trapped air in the top tank.

Plus it cleans the loop lines up.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They bleed easier,no trapped air in the top tank.
> 
> Plus it cleans the loop lines up.


Thanks for the explanation B


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> is this naked pastel blueberry or is it blueperry + Dye?


It has some dark blue mayhem dye added


----------



## psycho84




----------



## jagdtigger

Nice rig







. But how did you put together the two rad?


----------



## psycho84

With two selfmade Ledges at the Backside


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Thanks man. I'm almost thinking of adding in the EK PE 120 on the back exhaust fan area. I just think it would look sweet having the 360 front 240 top and 120 back. going from big to small and all facing in. Would be more for looks, but I could put it in after the 1st gpu before going to 2nd so it would be doing something. I'll check out the lights tho. Seeing your lit up like that makes me want it lit up red in mine. I had these same rel led fans in push pull before this loop and those added a lot of red light inside before.


Does look good in the 540. The x9 is much bigger and begs to stuff it with more components. If you don't mind switching to matx, the little brother X2 can hold 360s with the same general layout as the x9. Tbh, the 540 still looks good as is and would roll with that. Maybe Ti upgrade with the saved cash?


----------



## USMC Modder

It was a nice day out so I got some better shots of my build.


----------



## snef

that is a really nice setup,


----------



## super4goku

Hello. I'm building my computer when I get back from deployment.

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=25639686
This is my build I have right now I'm going to be changing my motherboard out. I want my system to be watercooled but idk how to do it what everything I need and where to buy everything. Can anyone help me out


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> In my opinion you have placed the pump cleverly.
> 
> Do you have fan´s in front of you front-rad or do you cool passive?
> 
> Why do you use two sli bridge´s?


Thanks. That's the 2nd pump under the bottom gpu.for added safety and extra pressure. There is 5 SickleFlow red led fans all pushing air into the 2 rads. The 3 fan are on the outside of the case under the front grill so the 360 didn't hit the 240. Only way it would fit. 2nd sli bridge I just put on there for the hell of it. Seen it in one of my boxes of parts yesterday so just put it on. Doesn't do anything more tho. Waiting for the V2 Evga sli bridges to come out and then I'll put one of those on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Does look good in the 540. The x9 is much bigger and begs to stuff it with more components. If you don't mind switching to matx, the little brother X2 can hold 360s with the same general layout as the x9. Tbh, the 540 still looks good as is and would roll with that. Maybe Ti upgrade with the saved cash?


Yeah, I'm really happy with the way it turned out. Looks pretty good. I like how these PE rads are really squared looking. Different than all other rads I used before. They work GREAT too. Very quiet and cool very well. The shroud idea EK went with on these is very smart. Seen the X2 at Microcenter as well. It's a big case for being mATX. If I went the X9 route I would have added my quad feser in the bottom, just like you said it wants a lot in there. Ti upgrade? You meaning new gpu's?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> It was a nice day out so I got some better shots of my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet rig man. Good job


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *super4goku*
> 
> Hello. I'm building my computer when I get back from deployment.
> 
> http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=25639686
> This is my build I have right now I'm going to be changing my motherboard out. I want my system to be watercooled but idk how to do it what everything I need and where to buy everything. Can anyone help me out


If you are in the US, the place most likely to have everything you need would be performance-pcs.com as frozencpu is pretty much dead in the water (haha, bad pun) right now. Minimum for a water cooling system would be waterblocks for what you want to cool, radiator, pump, maybe a combo pump res (some nice tube res out there with integrated pump tops) and of course, tubing to carry the coolant for you. Distilled water with a biocide is a good place to start before you start getting into dyes.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Thanks. That's the 2nd pump under the bottom gpu.for added safety and extra pressure. There is 5 SickleFlow red led fans all pushing air into the 2 rads.
> Yeah, I'm really happy with the way it turned out. Looks pretty good. I like how these PE rads are really squared looking.


it turned out really nice. You mentioned possibly adding a 120rad as exhaust.

As an alternative to that I suggest ditching the sickleflow fans for GT AP15 /ek varder or even sp120s.

Your temps and noise level would improve especially with GTs or varders.


----------



## corysti

While I wait on the right tubing to come I decided to see how I wanted everything routed. What size extension do I need to get the fitting on my cpu block level with my ram block?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *super4goku*
> 
> Hello. I'm building my computer when I get back from deployment.
> 
> http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=25639686
> This is my build I have right now I'm going to be changing my motherboard out. I want my system to be watercooled but idk how to do it what everything I need and where to buy everything. Can anyone help me out


You might want to swap out the case while you're at it, the CM Storm Stryker is a pretty awful case for water cooling.

Edit: Unless you're planning on modding it.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> that is a really nice setup,


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Sweet rig man. Good job


Thank you both. I had a lot of fun building it.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> it turned out really nice. You mentioned possibly adding a 120rad as exhaust.
> 
> As an alternative to that I suggest ditching the sickleflow fans for GT AP15 /ek varder or even sp120s.
> 
> Your temps and noise level would improve especially with GTs or varders.


I have no need for improving the temps. Adding that 3rd 120 rad would only be for looks pretty much. The temps are great. The Sickleflow fans are one of my favorites. They can move lots of air through rads at 2000rpm and aren't that loud compared to some other 2000rpm fans. I only run them at 1200rpms tho with my fan controller and they are basically silent. Fans are good. Plus they really are my favorite looking as far as the led's shine. These rads are meant for low flow fans anyways but if things get warm on a hot summer day then I can turn them up if I need to.

I got the performance I was looking for and some, now any changes would be for looks and making it look a little nicer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Thank you both. I had a lot of fun building it.


For sure bud. Having fun building is the most important part IMO. That's why I just rebuilt mine again after I did the 3 AIO's and had max load temps of 45c on my 780ti's. I didn't need to change anything with those temps, but I was board again and wanted to keep building


----------



## super4goku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You might want to swap out the case while you're at it, the CM Storm Stryker is a pretty awful case for water cooling.
> 
> Edit: Unless you're planning on modding it.


Why you say that


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *super4goku*
> 
> Why you say that


Looks like the top of the case will only allow a 240 rad without modding the front drive bays, same for the bottom of the case which would also require modding where the PSU goes. better to find a more open, larger design that will at least allow a 360 rad internally.

External mounting will also work, but some (including myself) prefer mounting rads internally as it looks cleaner.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *super4goku*
> 
> Why you say that


Because stock, you only have support for a 120mm rad in the bottom and a 240mm rad up top. There are relatively affordable cases with much better water cooling support nowadays.

Like:
Fractal Design Define R5
Fractal Design Define S
NZXT H440
Phanteks Enthoo Pro
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
...


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I have no need for improving the temps. Adding that 3rd 120 rad would only be for looks pretty much. The temps are great. *The Sickleflow fans are one of my favorites. They can move lots of air through rads at 2000rpm and aren't that loud compared to some other 2000rpm fans. I only run them at 1200rpms tho with my fan controller and they are basically silent*. Fans are good. Plus they really are my favorite looking as far as the led's shine. These rads are meant for low flow fans anyways but if things get warm on a hot summer day then I can turn them up if I need to.


This review scared me away from those fans. Maybe there is different revision out now.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













http://www.anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder/6



Non of that matters if your performance is what you need. I just thought you were after better temps adding a rear rad.


----------



## super4goku

I can't really get a different case cuz I already have it from a early birthday present unless i decided to buy one and sell it. How many rad do I need


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *super4goku*
> 
> I can't really get a different case cuz I already have it from a early birthday present unless i decided to buy one and sell it. How many rad do I need


What do you intend on water cooling? Just CPU? CPU + GPU?


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> This review scared me away from those fans. Maybe there is different revision out now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder/6
> 
> 
> 
> Non of that matters if your performance is what you need. I just thought you were after better temps adding a rear rad.


WOW. that review is crazy wrong. I've used many different fans and these perform better then a lot of them and are a lot quieter than most others for the rpm's. That reviewer must have a hate for CM in general, but no way they perform that bad. Maybe they had 2 fans in push pull in wrong directions fighting each other LOL. Those numbers are not correct tho. No way LOL

Some of the sickle flows I have are over 5 years old and still running perfect. I just put 5 brand new ones in this system tho and they are working just as good. With the 3 AIO's I had , those were on my old ones, just wanted some more and didn't feel like cleaning all the blades off the old ones.


----------



## super4goku

J
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> What do you intend on water cooling? Just CPU? CPU + GPU?


Cpu and gpu. I thought that really the only thing you can watercool


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> WOW. that review is crazy wrong. I've used many different fans and these perform better then a lot of them and are a lot quieter than most others for the rpm's. That reviewer must have a hate for CM in general, but no way they perform that bad. Maybe they had 2 fans in push pull in wrong directions fighting each other LOL. Those numbers are not correct tho. No way LOL
> 
> Some of the sickle flows I have are over 5 years old and still running perfect. I just put 5 brand new ones in this system tho and they are working just as good. With the 3 AIO's I had , those were on my old ones, just wanted some more and didn't feel like cleaning all the blades off the old ones.


Maybe they got a bad set of fans for the review or something.

They go for $8-9 bucks on amazon and I always see yate looms suggested instead of them.

I have a couple of green ones somewhere that were old case fans. Never put em on a rad though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Thanks. That's the 2nd pump under the bottom gpu.for added safety and extra pressure. There is 5 SickleFlow red led fans all pushing air into the 2 rads. The 3 fan are on the outside of the case under the front grill so the 360 didn't hit the 240. Only way it would fit. 2nd sli bridge I just put on there for the hell of it. Seen it in one of my boxes of parts yesterday so just put it on. Doesn't do anything more tho. Waiting for the V2 Evga sli bridges to come out and then I'll put one of those on.
> Yeah, I'm really happy with the way it turned out. Looks pretty good. I like how these PE rads are really squared looking. Different than all other rads I used before. They work GREAT too. Very quiet and cool very well. The shroud idea EK went with on these is very smart. Seen the X2 at Microcenter as well. It's a big case for being mATX. If I went the X9 route I would have added my quad feser in the bottom, just like you said it wants a lot in there. Ti upgrade? You meaning new gpu's?


The *still* rumored 980 ti


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Because stock, you only have support for a 120mm rad in the bottom and a 240mm rad up top. There are relatively affordable cases with much better water cooling support nowadays.
> 
> Like:
> Fractal Design Define R5
> Fractal Design Define S
> NZXT H440
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
> ...


Actually the bottom can take 240, the top can definitely take 240 and should take 280 with a few extra mounting holes (I don't think it has holes for 2x140), the rear can take 120 or 140 (I don't know if there are 140 radiators) and it's realatively easy to install a radiator in front (just get some L brackets).


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> Actually the bottom can take 240, the top can definitely take 240 and should take 280 with a few extra mounting holes (I don't think it has holes for 2x140), the rear can take 120 or 140 (I don't know if there are 140 radiators) and it's realatively easy to install a radiator in front (just get some L brackets).


You're right. But still, imo, there are much better cases to water cool in. Unless he plans on modding it ofc.


----------



## super4goku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You're right. But still, imo, there are much better cases to water cool in. Unless he plans on modding it ofc.


This is my 1st build im not going all out on watercooling yet but I might do light mod if I have to


----------



## JKuhn

Like I said, installing a 280mm radiator in the top should be fairly easy. Just keep in mind you can't have push/pull there because the handle gets in the way. Unless you mod it.









@Gilles3000 I won't argue about that. The Stryker is designed primarily for air after all. I just pointed out that he can in fact install more than you said.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *super4goku*
> 
> J
> Cpu and gpu. I thought that really the only thing you can watercool


Some will cool MB components as well as memory. But CPU/GPU is a great place to start. other than super hot VRMs on the mobo if you are overclocking, cooling anything else is pretty much bling factor.

I have a passive heatsink on my VRMs, and it works well.


----------



## super4goku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Some will cool MB components as well as memory. But CPU/GPU is a great place to start. other than super hot VRMs on the mobo if you are overclocking, cooling anything else is pretty much bling factor.
> 
> I have a passive heatsink on my VRMs, and it works well.


Yes I am going to be overclocking


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *super4goku*
> 
> Yes I am going to be overclocking


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The *still* rumored 980 ti


If it were faster than my 2 780ti's in sli, then maybe. I don't think it will be so it would really be a waste now that these have water blocks. I think I'll be able to wait til Pascal ti version. That should make the real difference.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Hey guys,
I finished my first acrylic build, and am looking for feedback/wondering if anyone cares. If people want more I'll post more pics.
Specs:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



i7 4790k (not yet oced)
Asus Maximus VII Gene
2x Asus 7970 with heat killer GPU-X3 blocks
16gbs gSkill Sniper @ 1600mhz
Corsair 350D
Evga 750G2
Alphacool UT60 240mm rad
Alphacool ST30 280mm rad
Koolance RP-452x2
Laing D5
Rocket Science Black Rigid Fittings
EK Supremacy


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Unless you're going to be getting an Asus ROG board or upgrading to x99, don't expect to find water blocks for Z97 motherboards, very few exist.. So in most cases, you'll be fine with just cooling CPU and GPU.

General rule of thumb is a 120mm rad space for each component with at least 120mm extra to allow for overclocking headroom.
For your config, the minimum should be a total of 360mm of rad space. Tho even a 280 in the top and a 120/140 in the bottom, or back, would be sufficient as well. Too much of Anything beyond that would likely require modding.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I finished my first acrylic build, and am looking for feedback/wondering if anyone cares. If people want more I'll post more pics.
> Specs:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> i7 4790k (not yet oced)
> Asus Maximus VII Gene
> 2x Asus 7970 with heat killer GPU-X3 blocks
> 16gbs gSkill Sniper @ 1600mhz
> Evga 750G2
> Alphacool UT60 240mm rad
> Alphacool ST30 280mm rad
> Koolance RP-452x2
> Laing D5
> Rocket Science Black Rigid Fittings
> EK Supremacy


Cables are clean








Tubes dont have any uniform angles, seems kind of random per tube, would be much cleaner if you did like 90 degree angles only or something


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Cables are clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tubes dont have any uniform angles, seems kind of random per tube, would be much cleaner if you did like 90 degree angles only or something


They look much more uniform in reality, the only messed up one is the Cpu to Res/Pump bend, which I will redo once I feel ok with not being able to play gta v in all of my spare time. All of the bends are 90 or 45 degrees. I had a hard time with the bends since my silicone insert had only 1/8in thick walls and was hollow, so really tight 90 degree bends were somewhat out of the question, so I had to do wide 90's and some 45's.

Edit: Two new pics for clarification/better angles.




(Side panel is off to get rid of reflections)


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I finished my first acrylic build, and am looking for feedback/wondering if anyone cares. If people want more I'll post more pics.
> Specs:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> i7 4790k (not yet oced)
> Asus Maximus VII Gene
> 2x Asus 7970 with heat killer GPU-X3 blocks
> 16gbs gSkill Sniper @ 1600mhz
> Corsair 350D
> Evga 750G2
> Alphacool UT60 240mm rad
> Alphacool ST30 280mm rad
> Koolance RP-452x2
> Laing D5
> Rocket Science Black Rigid Fittings
> EK Supremacy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This posted needed more pics.

Oh sure, ninja edit.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> This posted needed more pics.
> 
> Oh sure, ninja edit.


Based on the input I've received from you guys, I'm going to redo some of the bends, and then take some actual high quality photos with my DSLR.
(I also did slightly mod the case, but it's so bad that I refuse to show it)


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Based on the input I've received from you guys, I'm going to redo some of the bends, and then take some actual high quality photos with my DSLR.
> (I also did slightly mod the case, but it's so bad that I refuse to show it)


I say get the right bending tube!

This would only be cosmetic things none of it would affect performance much tho but it would increase aesthetics 10x, but I straightened the photo best I could but it was also taken at an angle slightly so best I can offer would be to try and make 90's like so.


----------



## derickwm

My turn... (Not part of the contest - just a boss)



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














































































http://www.overclock.net/t/1552873/sponsored-project-cymric-4790k-titan-z-ek-vulture-mod


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes it is but could you please use ["spoiler"] tags to quote multiple pics? It would be much appreciated by those of us accessing OCN via our smartphones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are on your phone you should find brackets on the 2nd page of your "Sym" button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not intentionally singling you out. There are other offenders of the multiple pic quoting. You just happened to be the most recent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


U have to be *****t*ng me- 1% of ocn users do that-- LOL!!!!!


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My turn... (Not part of the contest - just a boss)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1552873/sponsored-project-cymric-4790k-titan-z-ek-vulture-mod


Nice, but way to many fittings- should do some manual bends- builder took the easy way out


----------



## XKaan

^ I've done builds both ways - and it's not a matter of "easy way out" - it's a matter of preference. At first I liked builds with just tubing bends, but over time I like the look of extra fittings more - especially when there is a nice contrast.


----------



## derickwm

There was a time constraint to get this to PAX East 

/I'm lazy


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Nice, but way to many fittings- should do some manual bends- builder took the easy way out


Actually should have used all fittings and no bends. The entire loop would have looked much bulkier and heavier and fit the case better. Too much open dead space in that build for my preference, but it sure looks dang good anyways!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Nice, but way to many fittings- should do some manual bends- builder took the easy way out


Tell this to James walter's epic 900dcsq or robocop builds....didn't think so







.

@ Derick, I crave Jamba Juice now







. Sick build









Edit: you should change your alias to "orangejulias"


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> U have to be *****t*ng me- 1% of ocn users do that-- LOL!!!!!


Not to mention it's annoying to scroll through multiple pictures we've already seen.
It's a very simple thing to do and he asked you quite nicely. It's not like we're coming after you enraged.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes it is but could you please use ["spoiler"] tags to quote multiple pics? It would be much appreciated by those of us accessing OCN via our smartphones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are on your phone you should find brackets on the 2nd page of your "Sym" button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not intentionally singling you out. There are other offenders of the multiple pic quoting. You just happened to be the most recent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> U have to be *****t*ng me- 1% of ocn users do that-- LOL!!!!!
Click to expand...

Not only did he ask you nicely, but after doing so, you double posted and quoted A WALL of pictures. Come on, it's really annoying to have to wade through the same pictures again and again. Even if they are stunning.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes it is but could you please use ["spoiler"] tags to quote multiple pics? It would be much appreciated by those of us accessing OCN via our smartphones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are on your phone you should find brackets on the 2nd page of your "Sym" button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not intentionally singling you out. There are other offenders of the multiple pic quoting. You just happened to be the most recent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> U have to be *****t*ng me- 1% of ocn users do that-- LOL!!!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not only did he ask you nicely, but after doing so, you double posted and quoted A WALL of pictures. Come on, it's really annoying to have to wade through the same pictures again and again. Even if they are stunning.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Thanks bro. Appreciate your input.

@Suferbus...

Dude look, if your parents(assuming you're a Teenager of course) asked you not to pick your butt in public, would you get bent out of shape and point out that it *must* be okay because everyone does it but a few(1%) of the people you see?

Of course you wouldn't. I am on my phone mostly at this time so mebbe you can dial back the attitude and simply be courteous when asked nicely, instead of being a child about it.

I am now done with this subject.

~Ceadder


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I say get the right bending tube!
> 
> This would only be cosmetic things none of it would affect performance much tho but it would increase aesthetics 10x, but I straightened the photo best I could but it was also taken at an angle slightly so best I can offer would be to try and make 90's like so.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


+Rep for the advice, where should I buy a silicone insert that will fit my 1/2in tubing?

Ninja Edit: How does my 180 degree bend look to you? Just wondering.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> U have to be *****t*ng me- 1% of ocn users do that-- LOL!!!!!


Really man? You keep multiposting, and not spoilering large groups of photos. If someone calls you out, especially in a nice way, and especially if they are a respected person, you should reply courteously, and not get mad at them. It is a reasonable request, especially since multipost are against OCN rules. So please watch it, especially since many of us browse the mobile website while at work or school.
Thank you,
Epic


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> My turn... (Not part of the contest - just a boss)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1552873/sponsored-project-cymric-4790k-titan-z-ek-vulture-mod


i have a Question , what coolant did u used (i asumed is the EK/mayhems pastel orange , am i right?)

and in your opinion , is it close resemblance to the same orange Gigabyte is using with their boards? or we have to make fine tunning with other dyes to make it close to that orange?

thanks in advance


----------



## derickwm

Pretty damn similar my good sir 

This was a quick build I did at PAX just to show off the hardware and the open bench.

Gigabyte X99 SOC Force + EK-Ekoolant Pastel ORANGE (concentrate 250mL)


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Nice, but way to many fittings- should do some manual bends- builder took the easy way out


Do you honestly not know what personal preference is? You think with all the money and time he spent he used more fittings to save a little bit of time? Wake up


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> +Rep for the advice, where should I buy a silicone insert that will fit my 1/2in tubing?
> 
> Ninja Edit: How does my 180 degree bend look to you? Just wondering.


What 180 degree bend? Also...im no expert with 1/2 but is this what you need?http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-1-2-id-silicon-bending-insert-1-foot-for-5-8-od-tube.html


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Do you honestly not know what personal preference is? You think with all the money and time he spent he used more fittings to save a little bit of time? Wake up


agree here. I think the fittings are adding to the look not taking away from it.


----------



## morencyam

I think fittings vs bends is a build by build basis. Fittings looks better in some builds and bends look better in others. JamesWalt's RoboCop build is the perfect abalone as wermad stated earlier. I think all bends wouldn't have looked right there at all


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I think fittings vs bends is a build by build basis. Fittings looks better in some builds and bends look better in others. JamesWalt's RoboCop build is the perfect abalone as wermad stated earlier. I think all bends wouldn't have looked right there at all


I agree with this. It is a mix of personal preference and what is best for the build. Tons of fittings in my PC Face build wouldn't have looked right so I decided to do bends. In other builds I may change my mind. Time will tell. The moral of the story is that there really isn't a right or wrong way to do it.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Holy Balls I'm excited and nervous, I just ordered the monsoon mandrel kit, acrylic tubing and fittings. Goodbye soft tubing, Hello acrylic


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Holy Balls I'm excited and nervous, I just ordered the monsoon mandrel kit, acrylic tubing and fittings. Goodbye soft tubing, Hello acrylic


What types of bends are you doing? I'll tell you if you should be scared


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

This has probably been discussed to death, but I have been out of it for a while.

I heard there has been issues with FrozenCPU and I am not sure whether they are now open or closed or if they should be used.

I am currently looking to WC my system but I need an etailer that can ship internationally.

Who would you guys suggest ? (looking or 180x2 and 120 rads, res+ pump or pump/res combo + fittings/tubing)

All information would be greatly appreciated.

Regards


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> This has probably been discussed to death, but I have been out of it for a while.
> 
> I heard there has been issues with FrozenCPU and I am not sure whether they are now open or closed or if they should be used.
> 
> I am currently looking to WC my system but I need an etailer that can ship internationally.
> 
> Who would you guys suggest ? (looking or 180x2 and 120 rads, res+ pump or pump/res combo + fittings/tubing)
> 
> All information would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Regards


FrozenCPU is still closed.

Not sure if PPC's ships international where do you live?

EDIT:
Ah I see, South Africa...I'll let someone else chime in on this.


----------



## Cyclops

Order from Dazmode.com. He ships Internationally.


----------



## p5ych00n5

75% 90's, roughly 25% 40 - 50. Since it's my first time I've tried to keep my layout KISS









Sorry this is for guitarhero23


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *super4goku*
> 
> I can't really get a different case cuz I already have it from a early birthday present unless i decided to buy one and sell it. How many rad do I need


Don't worry about the Stryker.

Whilst it defiantly isn't best suited for water cooling, it can be done, and done by a complete novice.

This is my 1st full water loop build ever, and I managed to do some very simple mods to the case to get things to fit right.


Spoiler: Crappy Camera phone Pics!











(I've got a sound card in the lowest PCI-E slot now also)

The main mod being fitting a 240 monsta rad with push/pull in the front. Its a ghetto way of mounting but using some cheapo external rad mounts/stands to bolt to the sides of the black side plates that hold the HDD cages enables u to put a 240 rad in the front, even a 360 if u wanted. The top can handle a 240 or 280, but how thick u go depends on ur motherboards top most heatsink as it can get in the way. If it does, some simple drilling of new mounting holes solves that. As for the rear, well I've mounted a 240 rad externally on the back without much issue.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 75% 90's, roughly 25% 40 - 50. Since it's my first time I've tried to keep my layout KISS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry this is for guitarhero23


Hey, 90's are where it's at man.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> This has probably been discussed to death, but I have been out of it for a while.
> 
> I heard there has been issues with FrozenCPU and I am not sure whether they are now open or closed or if they should be used.
> 
> I am currently looking to WC my system but I need an etailer that can ship internationally.
> 
> Who would you guys suggest ? (looking or 180x2 and 120 rads, res+ pump or pump/res combo + fittings/tubing)
> 
> All information would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Regards


We'll ship anywhere in the world









Ekwb.com/shop


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We'll ship anywhere in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ekwb.com/shop


Look at this guy, he's good...he's real good.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*sniff* That reminds me of my first water cooling system.

I looked at DD's site the other day, they don't seem to have much anymore.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Tubing Completed. Next is Filling and Leak test

TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tubing Completed. Next is Filling and Leak test
> 
> TCO


You have a sudden case of the flu and cannot go to work /jedimindtrick


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> You have a sudden case of the flu and cannot go to work /jedimindtrick


Im already at work.... I picked up the SLI Bridge this morning though









TCO


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

using distilled water only, no coolant? @TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im already at work.... I picked up the SLI Bridge this morning though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


So.....we should see a white SLI bridge soon, right?

No pressure, no pressure.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tubing Completed. Next is Filling and Leak test
> 
> TCO


You got the order wrong.. First Leak test then filling


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You got the order wrong.. First Leak test then filling


Are you saying you wish for me to Destroy the Pumps Sir?









TCO


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You got the order wrong.. First Leak test then filling


Well you kinda have to fill it to leak test.


----------



## fast_fate

How to correctly leak test your loop......101?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Are you saying you wish for me to Destroy the Pumps Sir?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Never Man. Never. you are One of my favorite OCNers ever. Did'nt know you had no idea about the thread quoted below









Ramz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> How to correctly leak test your loop......101?


Exactly


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> *sniff* That reminds me of my first water cooling system.
> 
> I looked at DD's site the other day, they don't seem to have much anymore.


Yeah I went a little old school with this... kept it simple and that block is years old. like many, thinking 2009, I have kept it around and my buddy even used it for a while.

Danger Den was great but they are no more. they are just down the road from me and good friends but I still rock their block


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaveliSmalls*
> 
> using distilled water only, no coolant? @TCO


I have Lime Green EK Coolant for the Right Res/GPU Loop. I am thinking of Getting Orange Pastel for the Left Res/Cpu Loop









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> So.....we should see a white SLI bridge soon, right?
> 
> No pressure, no pressure.


The SLI Bridge Will Be White! I am going to take a gander at it tonight and figure out what to tape off and spray









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> How to correctly leak test your loop......101?


Interesting.. Pressure valves and whatnot??








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Never Man. *Never. you are One of my favorite OCNers ever.* Did'nt know you had no idea about the thread quoted below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ramz
> Exactly


Very Nice!! And thank you for the Kind Words. I will look into this and sorry I didn't get the "Joke"









The Cautious ONe


----------



## sdmf74

Does anyone have personal experience with THESE fans? Do they perform well at their rated speeds?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Does anyone have personal experience with THESE fans? Do they perform well at their rated speeds?


Yes Very Nice. They Have decent fan speed and are very quiet. Push a good amount of air. Recommend using them with a rad of about 12Fpi.








I actually have.... 17 in my build and put 2 in A parvum. Pleased with the performance and looks. Others will recommend many more different types of fans as many other fans perform wayyyy better than the BItfenix Spec Pros.

TCO


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Does anyone have personal experience with THESE fans? Do they perform well at their rated speeds?


@snef uses them a lot in his builds. I have also seen him say that they perform pretty well.


----------



## sdmf74

Good to know. I prefer higher speed fan but for quiet non pwm fans they seem like they would do the job, especially 17 of em. Thanx.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Does anyone have personal experience with THESE fans? Do they perform well at their rated speeds?


They are pretty darn quite


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes it is but could you please use ["spoiler"] tags to quote multiple pics? It would be much appreciated by those of us accessing OCN via our smartphones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are on your phone you should find brackets on the 2nd page of your "Sym" button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not intentionally singling you out. There are other offenders of the multiple pic quoting. You just happened to be the most recent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> U have to be *****t*ng me- 1% of ocn users do that-- LOL!!!!!
Click to expand...

But 100% of users in this thread do,You will as well.

This is a 'rule' of the thread otherwise we end up with MANY quoted pics that ruin the thread by making it very slow to load,in a picture heavy thread this becomes unbearable pretty quick.

Just to echo what was previously said....Spoiler quoted pics please.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Does anyone have personal experience with THESE fans? Do they perform well at their rated speeds?


Not good on radiators....

A mediocre fan at best.

The 10 I got given got given away very quickly......


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What 180 degree bend? Also...im no expert with 1/2 but is this what you need?http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-1-2-id-silicon-bending-insert-1-foot-for-5-8-od-tube.html


If you look closely it is in the front connecting the front rad and bay res.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> If you look closely it is in the front connecting the front rad and bay res.


Need better picture. It's not very visible at all in the picture a few pages back.


----------



## Hambone07si

Can someone shed some light on why one would want to go with a parallel setup over series? Parallel seems like it wouldn't flow correctly somewhat. Or I must be missing something there? Thanks


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Can someone shed some light on why one would want to go with a parallel setup over series? Parallel seems like it wouldn't flow correctly somewhat. Or I must be missing something there? Thanks


As long as the flow resistance is the same in the blocks you are running parallel, there is no problem with the flow. When I add my 2nd GPU waterblock, I will be doing them in parallel because I like the better option for routing tubing. No need to have a tube sticking out of the 2nd card, it can exit right next to the intake.

Look at these examples. The outgoing tube can be either on the bottom card or the top. More options that way. Both parallel, different loop plumbing.


----------



## Hambone07si

Just seems like you wouldn't know for sure that the last card would be getting the same flow as the first card. Even if the cards had the same restriction, what's to say that the first card wouldn't be getting more flow. It would seem that the 2nd or 3rd card would need less restriction for the flow to go to that card and have the same flow as the first. I kinda just like knowing that with series that the flow is the same no matter what. Maybe I'm just seeing it wrong with parallel?


----------



## wermad

Either works fine. The only reasonable explanation to favor series is when you're doing some heavy oc'ing. The type when you're looking to break records and short of going w/ with exotic cooling.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Just seems like you wouldn't know for sure that the last card would be getting the same flow as the first card. Even if the cards had the same restriction, what's to say that the first card wouldn't be getting more flow. It would seem that the 2nd or 3rd card would need less restriction for the flow to go to that card and have the same flow as the first. I kinda just like knowing that with series that the flow is the same no matter what. Maybe I'm just seeing it wrong with parallel?


You have to think about it in flow rate and restrictions. The water wants to go the path of least resistance, but when the resistances are equal, the water wants to go (or not go) both ways equally. That is assuming there is enough pressure/flow to overcome gravity. Even with a pump on low it should be a non issue. Hope that helps.


----------



## Hambone07si

Yeah, but physics comes to play in my mind. If you have 3 cards with same flow restrictions and have the water coming and going from the top card, it wont send water through the 2nd or 3rd the same because of the longer path even tho restrictions are the same. It would take the short cut and go through the first card more because of shorter route. That's kinda how I see it. I may be wrong but was just curious


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Can someone shed some light on why one would want to go with a parallel setup over series? Parallel seems like it wouldn't flow correctly somewhat. Or I must be missing something there? Thanks


Series forces 100% of the flow through each card, and amount of restriction is combined. Parallel splits the flow between cards, and the amount of restriction to the loop is also split. GPU blocks tend to be low restriction and optimized for low flow rates. Which way is better, serial or parallel, tends not to matter much if at all. You're usually just as well to choose based on what looks better to you as any other factor.

Water flows similar to electricity, favoring the path of least resistance. If blocks in parallel are identical in resistance then there's no difference in flow rates between the first and last. It's similar to why the first LED in an LED strip isn't brighter than the last LED.

Swiftech did a study and found the differences between running GPUs in series vs parallel was "nominal". In their case they did manage to get a fraction of a degree benefit to running GPUs in parallel vs in series.

http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf *(PDF)*


----------



## Hambone07si

Ok, I was just curious. Thanks for the info. I have yet to do a parallel setup so far. Maybe in the future if need be. This is why I love OCN, we get to talk things out and understand things we don't get completely. What a great community


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Ok, I was just curious. Thanks for the info. I have yet to do a parallel setup so far. Maybe in the future if need be. This is why I love OCN, we get to talk things out and understand things we don't get completely. What a great community


When I fill up my Loop you want me to make Video of the Gpu's Filling up? I put them in parallel and have never witnessed it myself.



TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> When I fill up my Loop you want me to make Video of the Gpu's Filling up? I put them in parallel and have never witnessed it myself.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Sure bud!! I'd love to see that. That would be very cool


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> When I fill up my Loop you want me to make Video of the Gpu's Filling up? I put them in parallel and have never witnessed it myself.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Duh. Of course.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Sure bud!! I'd love to see that. That would be very cool


No Problem. It will been sooner than later

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> When I fill up my Loop you want me to make Video of the Gpu's Filling up? I put them in parallel and have never witnessed it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You asking us mate? Doeeeeeeeeeet


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You asking us mate? Doeeeeeeeeeet










Well I guess it was a ridiculous question.

TCO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Duh. Of course.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But 100% of users in this thread do,You will as well.
> 
> This is a 'rule' of the thread otherwise we end up with MANY quoted pics that ruin the thread by making it very slow to load,in a picture heavy thread this becomes unbearable pretty quick.
> 
> Just to echo what was previously said....Spoiler quoted pics please.
> Not good on radiators....
> 
> A mediocre fan at best.
> 
> The 10 I got given got given away very quickly......


They are loud too, so I have to agree with you. The only way that one can think they aren't loud is if they blew out their hearing or severely damaged it. They look fantastic, but in no way do they perform *well*.


----------



## trodas

My old system: watercooling Sapphire A9RX480 mobo (Opteron 148 with Swiftek block and custom mount), Danger Den chipset and GPU (GeForce 6800):


----------



## Ceadderman

Considering the viability of wc'ing a NUC. Not because it's necessary but because I can And as far as I know it hasn't been done... yet.









I want one for htpc and Web browsing and minor gaming.









~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Is it safe to control a D5 pump with a fan controller/voltage controller? I have a Swiftech MCP655 D5 pump. Which has the 5 speed switch. Obviously its not really good for on the fly speed control, so I was wondering if it would be safe to just set it to 5 than use a fan controller to turn it up or down?


----------



## wermad

The voltage range may not be wide enough but it may drop a few hundred rpms. Tbh, mine is fairly quiet (@ #5, 12v to psu). At full tilt, I end up ramping up the fans and the psu's fan also spins faster which translates to more noise.

Edit - typos corrected.







hate lollipop....


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Is it safe to control a D5 pump with a fan controller/voltage controller? I have a Swiftech MCP655 D5 pump. Which has the 5 speed switch. Obviously its not really good for on the fly speed control, so I was wondering if it would be safe to just set it to 5 than use a fan controller to turn it up or down?


Short answer No. long answer i'll get the guys explain it better.


----------



## Hambone07si

I always left my MCP655 at full speed and couldn't hear it at all. Mount to foam or rubber pad and good to go.

Would this res fit my old MCP655 pump correct? The MCP655 is the same as a D5 right?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Is it safe to control a D5 pump with a fan controller/voltage controller? I have a Swiftech MCP655 D5 pump. Which has the 5 speed switch. Obviously its not really good for on the fly speed control, so I was wondering if it would be safe to just set it to 5 than use a fan controller to turn it up or down?


I set my pump at 3 and walked away. Havent had any reason to adjust it since purged the air during setup. The D5 can pull up to 34W during startup and alot of fan controllers aren't rated for that. If you're not afraid of soldering you can open the pump housing and extend the 10kohm potentiometer to somewhere more convenient.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I always left my MCP655 at full speed and couldn't hear it at all. Mount to foam or rubber pad and good to go.
> 
> Would this res fit my old MCP655 pump correct? The MCP655 is the same as a D5 right?


yep. That is correct. All d5 should fit there.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep. That is correct. All d5 should fit there.


Sweet. I'll actually use my MCP655 pump with a res like that and G1/4" fittings vs the dumb plastic 1/2" barbs that are on it now. I hate that they set it up like that. That's the only reason I didn't feel like using it in my current setup. I'll order one of those res for it this week then. It is one of the best pumps out there if not the best.


----------



## fast_fate

The Aqua Computer D5 Top test reults show it performing worse than the stock Laing top though


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The Aqua Computer D5 Top test reults show it performing worse than the stock Laing top though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So what's that showing really? 1/4 psi less for having a Res built in and having G1/4" fittings? I'll take that all day. It's not like it's dropping from 6psi to 3psi or something. Does anyone have a better recommendation for a Res that goes on the D5/MCP655 over the Aquacomputers one? I'm sure every Res that goes on the pump is going to restrict it some compared to the 1/2" straight plastic barbs that are on the standard top. My MCP655 isn't a vario, it's just full blast with a molex connector. Only can control the speed by dropping voltage via controller or motherboard some how, but I like it running full blast anyways for the most part. The noise doesn't bother me one bit because I can barely hear it running at all, if any. I usually have to put my hand on it to feel a little vibration to tell that its on if I'm not looking at the res and seeing the water flowing. I do not want a 5.25" bay res tho, I would like one just like the one I posted or similar. 100ml - 150ml would be good, not something 250ml or above. That makes it tougher to fit in some places.

Thanks for any recommendations


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> So what's that showing really? 1/4 psi less for having a Res built in and having G1/4" fittings? I'll take that all day. It's not like it's dropping from 6psi to 3psi or something. Does anyone have a better recommendation for a Res that goes on the D5/MCP655 over the Aquacomputers one? I'm sure every Res that goes on the pump is going to restrict it some compared to the 1/2" straight plastic barbs that are on the standard top. My MCP655 isn't a vario, it's just full blast with a molex connector. Only can control the speed by dropping voltage via controller or motherboard some how, but I like it running full blast anyways for the most part. The noise doesn't bother me one bit because I can barely hear it running at all, if any. I usually have to put my hand on it to feel a little vibration to tell that its on if I'm not looking at the res and seeing the water flowing. I do not want a 5.25" bay res tho, I would like one just like the one I posted or similar. 100ml - 150ml would be good, not something 250ml or above. That makes it tougher to fit in some places.
> 
> Thanks for any recommendations


I like the ek top/reservoir combo. But that Aqua is a good looking one. Fast is correct since we come to expect that custom tops would perform better that stock Laing top but that is not the case for the Aquacomputer top.


----------



## Hambone07si

Oh man, at microcenter now and they have a Titan X Evga brand sitting here calling my name!! Dame I want to buy it so bad, but I just finished my custom loop. Plus it wouldn't really be faster than my 780ti sli setup. Don't do it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Oh man, at microcenter now and they have a Titan X Evga brand sitting here calling my name!! Dame I want to buy it so bad, but I just finished my custom loop. Plus it wouldn't really be faster than my 780ti sli setup. Don't do it


Lol.... I am the worse to help you getting thought the temptation mate... I would say sell the two 780 and get one tx. But mind you you will need the blocks too so....It is one hell of a card. I was using two titans in sli with a mild OC and just one Tx card was better that my old setup.


----------



## Wirerat

I am using a primochill D5 compression 120 res top on my sons rig. It requires a specific torgue. I over tightened it at first. It wont seal if too tight.

After i figured that out I had zero issues out of it and primochill has a huge selection of sizes and colors.
This is the 120mm version.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

I need your help. I want to shorten and sleeve my modular cables but I've never done it before and I don't know what to get.
Can someone help me put together a list of parts and tools I'll need?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I need your help. I want to shorten and sleeve my modular cables but I've never done it before and I don't know what to get.
> Can someone help me put together a list of parts and tools I'll need?


these might help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdckzRWFijM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxyrkD7HaV4


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I need your help. I want to shorten and sleeve my modular cables but I've never done it before and I don't know what to get.
> Can someone help me put together a list of parts and tools I'll need?


Your best bet is to head over to the Cable Sleeving Gallery. There are quite a few good tips on there for how to get started. Lutro0 and quite a few experienced users are often available to help.

Basically you'll need these to start with:

Crimper
Pin removal tool
Wire strippers
Sleeving (I like the Lutro0 Telios)
Heatshrink (it's even needed if you go heatshrinkless)
Lighter or heat gun
Like I said though, Cable Sleeving Gallery is where you'll want to go.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I am using a primochill D5 compression 120 res top on my sons rig. It requires a specific torgue. I over tightened it at first. It wont seal if too tight.
> 
> After i figured that out I had zero issues out of it and primochill has a huge selection of sizes and colors.
> This is the 120mm version.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like that one there. That looks really nice. That fits on the MCP655 nicely? Maybe I'll go that route instead of the Aquacomputers one. I don't have to get the Aqua version really, it was just the style or look that I would like to get, whether it be a EK, or Primochill variant. I'll look them up and get one ordered this week tho and then I'll be able to use my MCP655 again









Thanks bud!!!


----------



## Devildog83

I need new thermal pads for my EK backplate, anyone know what thickness they are? .5mm? Are the any that are better than the rest?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I need new thermal pads for my EK backplate, anyone know what thickness they are? .5mm? Are the any that are better than the rest?


Fujipoly Extreme pads are the best out there right now. I'm not sure the thickness though.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Fujipoly Extreme pads are the best out there right now. I'm not sure the thickness though.


Thanks, remembering what came with it I think they are 1mm for the back-plate. Thanks again. Now to get the block.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Thanks, remembering what came with it I think they are 1mm for the back-plate. Thanks again. Now to get the block.


I just looked it up and found that the 780/Titan backplate is in fact 0.5mm like you initially stated. That should be consistent across most of their current backplates.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I just looked it up and found that the 780/Titan backplate is in fact 0.5mm like you initially stated. That should be consistent across most of their current backplates.


Thanks I just bought some .5 and I bought some 1.0 just in case. I guess it doesn't hurt to have some around.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Thanks I just bought some .5 and I bought some 1.0 just in case. I guess it doesn't hurt to have some around.


Definitely a good idea. I have heard that different brands may not be exact to the required thickness and end up leaving too much room.


----------



## VSG

I am getting more and more convinced that the Fujipoly pads are really not what they seem to be. The advertised stiffness does not match, and a controlled thermal test showed very little difference between the 11 w/mK Fujipoly pads (I don't have the 17 w/mK ones), as well as others rated between 1 and 5 w/mK.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I like that one there. That looks really nice. That fits on the MCP655 nicely? Maybe I'll go that route instead of the Aquacomputers one. I don't have to get the Aqua version really, it was just the style or look that I would like to get, whether it be a EK, or Primochill variant. I'll look them up and get one ordered this week tho and then I'll be able to use my MCP655 again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks bud!!!


if u go primochill order dierct. They let you change the colors of the rings, tubes, tube length ect.
http://www.primochill.com

Amazon stocks them too as well as performancepcs.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Just another pic of it installed. Its a fat res.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am getting more and more convinced that the Fujipoly pads are really not what they seem to be. The advertised stiffness does not match, and a controlled thermal test showed very little difference between the 11 w/mK Fujipoly pads (I don't have the 17 w/mK ones), as well as others rated between 1 and 5 w/mK.


Interesting. What pads did you find performed the best?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Interesting. What pads did you find performed the best?


They still did (Fujipoly Extreme) but were within margin of error to be honest. The thing that led me to do this was that the stiffness rating on the pads is a LOT higher than what we see in reality. For example, the 17 w/mK ones should be rock hard and not compressible one bit (typically the more the thermal conductivity, the stiffer the pads) but we all know how soft these really are.

Edit: As Unicr0nhunter rightly pointed out, 80 being rock hard is on the Shore Scale D not 00


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> if u go primochill order dierct. They let you change the colors of the rings, tubes, tube length ect.
> http://www.primochill.com
> 
> Amazon stocks them too as well as performancepcs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just another pic of it installed. Its a fat res.


Cool, I actually like the EK 140 D5 res.. I might just order that one and it says 20% better flow than original top. That's better than the Aquacomputer that restricts the flow some.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They still did (Fujipoly Extreme) but were within margin of error to be honest. The thing that led me to do this was that the stiffness rating on the pads is a LOT higher than what we see in reality. For example, the 17 w/mK ones should be rock hard and not compressible one bit (typically the more the thermal conductivity, the stiffer the pads) but we all know how soft these really are.


I just bought Koolance since it's just for a back-plate. I could not see spending $20 for the Fujipoly stuff.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Interesting. What pads did you find performed the best?
> 
> 
> 
> They still did (Fujipoly Extreme) but were within margin of error to be honest. The thing that led me to do this was that the stiffness rating on the pads is a LOT higher than what we see in reality. For example, the 17 w/mK ones should be rock hard and not compressible one bit (typically the more the thermal conductivity, the stiffer the pads) but we all know how soft these really are.
Click to expand...

Fujipoly Extreme thermal pads have a hardness rating of '<50 Shore 00' and their Ultra have a hardness rating of '80 Shore 00'. Neither of those would be anywhere near "rock hard". We're talking about ratings that would put them somewhere around that of a rubber band, which in my experience with both types of these pads seems about right. I'm assuming you were thinking of scale A or D ratings instead.

http://www.smooth-on.com/pdf/durometer_with_logo.pdf



Edit: BTW, I've never heard before of a supposed correlation between hardness and thermal conductivity. Where does that come from?

I can say that every single time I've replaced oem thermal pads from the likes of EVGA, EK, XSPC, etc, with Fujipoly pads there has always been a very slight but noticeable improvement in temps just at idle alone.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They still did (Fujipoly Extreme) but were within margin of error to be honest. The thing that led me to do this was that the stiffness rating on the pads is a LOT higher than what we see in reality. For example, the 17 w/mK ones should be rock hard and not compressible one bit (typically the more the thermal conductivity, the stiffer the pads) but we all know how soft these really are.


Wow, so they are still effective but not performing to the manufacturer's specs. +1 for the info, VSG!


----------



## mbondPDX

I finished putting my m1 under water a couple days ago. Overall I'm very pleased.














My next project will be sleeving. One thing at a time though...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Fujipoly Extreme thermal pads have a hardness rating of '<50 Shore 00' and their Ultra have a hardness rating of '80 Shore 00'. Neither of those would be anywhere near "rock hard". We're talking about ratings that would put them somewhere around that of a rubber band, which in my experience with both types of these pads seems about right. I'm assuming you were thinking of scale A or D ratings instead.
> 
> http://www.smooth-on.com/pdf/durometer_with_logo.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: BTW, I've never heard before of a supposed correlation between hardness and thermal conductivity. Where does that come from?
> 
> I can say that every single time I've replaced oem thermal pads from the likes of EVGA, EK, XSPC, etc, with Fujipoly pads there has always been a very slight but noticeable improvement in temps just at idle alone.


This whole thing started when the guys from Thermal Grizzly (http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/) announced their company and product launch. I had not heard of them at all until I saw Der8auer's interview on Overclocking TV regarding their upcoming paste and out of the blue they sent me an email asking if I would be interested in checking out their products. They gave some long info on how their research was done on paste and pads alike, and they were the ones who first said about the general correlation between thermal conductivity and Shore number (00 scale itself). I had no idea about this so I talked to XSPC and EK guys who said the same thing, and then emailed Fujipoly USA to confirm but have not yet heard back.

Yeah, rock hard is on the Scale D as you rightly pointed out. But 50-80 Shore 00 is still elastic whereas these ones I have compress very easily- similar to the stock Nvidia pads if I had to gander a guess. I have some of the Sarcon XR-m pads on the way to be sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Wow, so they are still effective but not performing to the manufacturer's specs. +1 for the info, VSG!


Well don't base it on what I said just yet. I need to do more tests and multiple times too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> I finished putting my m1 under water a couple days ago. Overall I'm very pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next project will be sleeving. One thing at a time though...


That's and epically tight space (Did I say that Right? ) Damn!







Congrats on that!

Got a Video of the Caselab SMA8 Walkaround. Will Get the Fill Parallel Video @Hambone07si Today.. Trying to find some good lighting... or extension cord.





And a Still Pic... Great weather for a shot outside.





THe Cautious One

Trying to finish my coffee... so I can move this giant case around... Kinda scared to fill it with water.... I need to go to the Gym...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I just bought Koolance since it's just for a back-plate. I could not see spending $20 for the Fujipoly stuff.


I just can't seem to buy into this as well, even with claims of nice vrm temp drops. I'm using the stock pad koolance included. I have a lot of spare pad from eBay (Chinese) ideal for laptops. It's done pretty good and a good 500 or 200 squared sheet ain't that expensive. Just the wait might be annoying.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Cool, I actually like the EK 140 D5 res.. I might just order that one and it says 20% better flow than original top. That's better than the Aquacomputer that restricts the flow some.


The ek d5 res tops look very nice. I always thought the D5s dont really benefit from aftermarket tops like the ddc pumps do.

I wouldnt want a top with less performance than a stock top though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I just bought Koolance since it's just for a back-plate. I could not see spending $20 for the Fujipoly stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> *I just can't seem to buy into this as well*, even with claims of nice vrm temp drops. I'm using the stock pad koolance included. I have a lot of spare pad from eBay (Chinese) ideal for laptops. It's done pretty good and a good 500 or 200 squared sheet ain't that expensive. Just the wait might be annoying.
Click to expand...










Pads is pads is pads......

Block makers need to tighten up on tolerances and use paste.


----------



## guitarhero23

If PPC's can't get my order I put rush order processing out today (placed an order Saturday and had them combine it with an order placed Monday morning which I called about) the whole overnight shipping thing will be completely useless since I would need it by tomorrow latest. Then I bet I'll have trouble getting them to switch it to regular shipping







gahhhh. Of course this happens on the last things I need for my build to be done. Can't work on it until then and then can't work on it Thurs-Sun. Was trying to get it done Wed. All orders until the most time sensitive one went just fine! Just my luck


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pads is pads is pads......
> 
> Block makers need to tighten up on tolerances and use paste.


Agreed but easier said than done- even Aquacomputer has had tolerance issues with this, as seen by Stren's recent review of their GTX 980 block where the VRAMs themselves weren't making full contact and needed careful re-seating:



Now imagine this with VRMs where the tolerances will have to be even tighter.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pads is pads is pads......
> 
> Block makers need to tighten up on tolerances and use paste.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed but easier said than done- even Aquacomputer has had tolerance issues with this, as seen by Stren's recent review of their GTX 980 block where the VRAMs themselves weren't making full contact and needed careful re-seating:
> 
> 
> 
> Now imagine this with VRMs where the tolerances will have to be even tighter.
Click to expand...

The problem with a flexible PCB and too few mounting points.....

I would say AquaC were perhaps a bit conservative with stand off length too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Leak testing IN Progress.

@Hambone07si Video Coming Up









TCO


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Considering the viability of wc'ing a NUC. Not because it's necessary but because I can And as far as I know it hasn't been done... yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want one for htpc and Web browsing and minor gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not quite a NUC, but the Closest thing I've seen yet:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Been working on this lil' guy. Gigabyte Brix Pro 4770R with full watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Start.

Filling another 500ml Right now

TCO

EDIT: I GUess most people don't show stuff like this but... I laughed.




And yes... There was water everywhere.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Start.
> 
> Filling another 500ml Right now
> 
> TCO


Excited for you as this has been a wip'd for a good time


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Excited for you as this has been a wip'd for a good time


Check the previous. I edited it with a Crazy one.

Going smoke a cig. Wow...

TCO Lmao


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This whole thing started when the guys from Thermal Grizzly (http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/) announced their company and product launch. I had not heard of them at all until I saw Der8auer's interview on Overclocking TV regarding their upcoming paste and out of the blue they sent me an email asking if I would be interested in checking out their products. They gave some long info on how their research was done on paste and pads alike, and they were the ones who first said about the general correlation between thermal conductivity and Shore number (00 scale itself). I had no idea about this so I talked to XSPC and EK guys who said the same thing, and then emailed Fujipoly USA to confirm but have not yet heard back.
> 
> Yeah, rock hard is on the Scale D as you rightly pointed out. But 50-80 Shore 00 is still elastic whereas these ones I have compress very easily- similar to the stock Nvidia pads if I had to gander a guess. I have some of the Sarcon XR-m pads on the way to be sure.
> Well don't base it on what I said just yet. I need to do more tests and multiple times too.


Interesting stuff from thermal-grizzly. I would be interested in see the final products. That been said my experience with 11 and 17 Fuji in terms of hardness have been right on target in regard to specs VSG. Have used both on 0.5 and 1.5 mm thickness. Have a piece of 11 1.5 mm flying around somewhere and could take a shot if you want.

@TheCautiousOne you need to start doing air leak test mate...That is the path of the cautious


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Check the previous. I edited it with a Crazy one.
> 
> Going smoke a cig. Wow...
> 
> TCO Lmao


It leaked???


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Interesting stuff from thermal-grizzly. I would be interested in see the final products. That been said my experience with 11 and 17 Fuji in terms of hardness have been right on target in regard to specs VSG. Have used both on 0.5 and 1.5 mm thickness. Have a piece of 11 1.5 mm flying around somewhere and could take a shot if you want.
> 
> @TheCautiousOne you need to start doing *air leak test mate*...That is the path of the cautious












I knowwww.... I didn't want to go to the store though.... Im Learning to say the least.

TCO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It leaked???


Oh It Leaked!









I cut those at a little over 2 1/4" Ill go for 2 1/2" To make the diff

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The problem with a flexible PCB and too few mounting points.....
> 
> I would say AquaC were perhaps a bit conservative with stand off length too.


Wow, I'm glad I did a test fit with TIM and thermal pads since they gave me PLENTY of extra thermal pads. I used some cheap TIM I had and cut the pads just right, then mounted both blocks on both cards to see how the TIM spread out and seen the marks in the thermal pads, just incase I needed to double the pads up. Everything looked great tho and the TIM spread nicely across all the memory chips and the gpu die. I bought a NEW laser temp gun last night so I could check all the temps on the back side of my cards while under stress. When my cards had the G10/H55 combos on, my VRM's were around 75-80c on the back of the card at the hottest points. Now with the AquaC Kryo blocks, VRM temps are only 45-50c and everything else on the back is a lot cooler than before. I always like to check that tho when I mount my blocks especially if they give you so much extra thermal pads. I did both my cards with test mounts first and then final mounting and still had some pad left over from just the first package. I still have the full thermal pad sheet from the 2nd water block un touched lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Leak testing IN Progress.
> 
> @Hambone07si Video Coming Up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Sweet. I'll be home soon to have time to watch. Thanks tho man!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Well That went A LOT BETTER @Hambone07si And everyone else seeing this. I think the next 500ml will do the trick.. Sure is nice with liquid in it.


----------



## Hambone07si

Thanks man. I appreciate the time and effort to upload the video for me to see. I will watch them again when I'm home in 45min and have time to relax. Work has been crazy today and this CNC programming has got my head all over the place. Numbers bouncing off the inside of my head like crazy today


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Thanks man. I appreciate the time and effort to upload the video for me to see. I will watch them again when I'm home in 45min and have time to relax. Work has been crazy today and this CNC programming has got my head all over the place. Numbers bouncing off the inside of my head like crazy today


No Problem. I have always wondered the same question myself! Glad I had the opportunity to show you!

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Dame.. my buddy that I'm building his pc in a 540 air and redoing the water loop for him just offered me $800 for both my 780ti's with water blocks. I could sell and go get that titan X microcenter is holding for me right now. What do you guys think? Keep 780ti's or get titanx? I'm kinda happy with my setup and was gonna wait for the 980 to or even later

Not sure if the Titan X will be faster then my 780ti's in SLI or not. Doesn't look to be from the reviews. It's like 30-45% faster than a 980, which is 5-10% faster than my 780ti. So Titan X would be 45-60% faster than 780ti, but probably 25-40% slower than 2 780ti's in SLI. HMM. I hate when things like this happen to me after all the work I put in on the last loop LOL


----------



## MisterMom

It's like I'm at the Rijksmuseum in Holland. Rembrandts a plenty. My photos S_U_C_K, but here we go.


----------



## Hambone07si

GEEEZ dude, go through your pic's and post the GOOD ones only. There's tons of doubles, triples and a lot are blurry and can't tell what we are looking at. Clean that post up some man LOL. Take the pc outside or use a lamp or whatever to get better light, or use a real camera with a flash. That's an awful lot of pictures and many will get upset with that as they are on here VIA phones or tablets.


----------



## MisterMom

Hey hey. Love it or leave it. Wouldn't that be great? I'll take a one way ticket to the south of France. Thanks!!!!


----------



## ledzepp3

Holy balls, pictures.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

im just waiting on the New ones to Not spoilers them.









TCO


----------



## MisterMom

Sorry Mister Man. Just a lot of ols stuff on the new crappy camera. I've been here before. It was a mistake not to filter the pics. I would love to show everyone the (new) rig.


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

at least taking care of the double pictures would be nice


----------



## MisterMom

I barely every get the time to use my favorite property. My wifey poo is so jealous. My kids (3 &5) are totally on my back about anything I do now. Mod the WORLD>>>>>>>! She's home. Later.............


----------



## MisterMom

Complete destruction. Yea, whatever. I went from dual loop to single. Are the 980s coooooool as hell or what? Tried new BIOS for what purpose. To break the cards. Not a millionaire. $1600 is one hell of a lot of money for most. Been ridin' them since December. Is DX12 (Windows 10) coming soon or hopefully


----------



## chartiet

Are you drunk?


----------



## MisterMom

That's sunlight for a flash


----------



## MisterMom

It's not going outside. Did you ever try to pick up a watercooled Mountain Mods case. I truly would love to see someone steal my computer without two or three people attached to the theft. I can carry it around, but not down the stairs or out the door for that matter.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> Are you drunk?




Exactly.

The Cautious One.

THinking the Whole thing white except for the middle.


----------



## MisterMom

One last thing before I can only check you out on my dirty, stinkin' phone. Those were 6990s in there. Talk about some heat. ;O


----------



## emsj86

What just happened


----------



## MisterMom

I spent a bunch of time jibber jabbering about stuff that doesn't matter. I'm completely sorry! ;(


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Dame.. my buddy that I'm building his pc in a 540 air and redoing the water loop for him just offered me $800 for both my 780ti's with water blocks. I could sell and go get that titan X microcenter is holding for me right now. What do you guys think? Keep 780ti's or get titanx? I'm kinda happy with my setup and was gonna wait for the 980 to or even later
> 
> Not sure if the Titan X will be faster then my 780ti's in SLI or not. Doesn't look to be from the reviews. It's like 30-45% faster than a 980, which is 5-10% faster than my 780ti. So Titan X would be 45-60% faster than 780ti, but probably 25-40% slower than 2 780ti's in SLI. HMM. I hate when things like this happen to me after all the work I put in on the last loop LOL


Keep your sli tbh. Titan x wont be much of an upgrade. And if you need more vram, 8gb 290x or wait for a possible 8gb gm204 980. I'm running 4k and with 4gb, I'm very happy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterMom*
> 
> It's like I'm at the Rijksmuseum in Holland. Rembrandts a plenty. My photos S_U_C_K, but here we go.*snip*


Interesting setup, do luv the anodized finish on your MM. Reminds me of my old Ext. Ascension in piano black







.


----------



## Rahldrac

Finally done with my Thermaltake X2, at least for a little while. Wonder about something to fill the space between the front rad and the GPUs.





Gonna have to add more dye to the liquid, but that is for another day.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Keep your sli tbh. Titan x wont be much of an upgrade. And if you need more vram, 8gb 290x or wait for a possible 8gb gm204 980. I'm running 4k and with 4gb, I'm very happy.


I'm with wermad. At this point, your best bet is to wait for the next gen to come along or at least the next round of 980s to come out. The Titan X is an incredible card but you're already well into this generation at this point.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'm with wermad. At this point, your best bet is to wait for the next gen to come along or at least the next round of 980s to come out. The Titan X is an incredible card but you're already well into this generation at this point.


Ti 980 is also a possibility and with 6gb, it will satisfy the vram hungry (or paranoid) crowd. I'm more inclined to say NV will launch a gm200 Ti with 6gb then an 8gb gm204 980. I would speculate an 8gb 980 gm204 would be allowed through aib's (ie evga) right before Pascal as a final push to sell Maxwell (think delayed evga 6gb gtx 780).


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> The Cautious One.
> 
> THinking the Whole thing white except for the middle.


Holly mate. you are freaking funny. if you don't start your own youtube channel i'm gonna hunt you down mate.

Good videos there.. and i see you got lazy and didn't do the air leak method


----------



## Hambone07si

Sold the 780ti's for $900 with the water blocks and just bought the titan X


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Sold the 780ti's for $900 with the water blocks and just bought the titan X


nice upgrade... this thread is full of worthless chatter


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Holly mate. you are freaking funny. if you don't start your own youtube channel i'm gonna hunt you down mate.
> 
> Good videos there.. and i see you got lazy and didn't do the air leak method


I Don't air leak tbh


----------



## Ceadderman

^or leak air?







werm you should really put together an air gauge tester. You of all people actually. You've done more wc'ing builds than the little dutch boy has fingers an toes.









That's two hours(loading time on my phone) of my life that I will never get back.

Looks solid though. I would have to point out that if it's gone tomorrow you only have yourself to blame. I picked up that gauntlet that you threw down and me and my handtruck will be there first thing in the morning.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Holly mate. you are freaking funny. if you don't start your own youtube channel i'm gonna hunt you down mate.
> 
> Good videos there.. and i see you got lazy and didn't do the *air leak method*


I want to do youtube... Just not sure of What!!

And we were leaking something... Not Air though! It was just a matter of "Tubing" before the components set right.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I Don't air leak tbh










Can I get a High Five.

I think they call not Air Leak Testing... "Living Dangerously"









The "Not Cautious" One (Today)

(BTW I AM STILL LEAK TESTING THE ONE LOOP) Been... 2 Hours... ?


----------



## wermad

Lol









@ceadderman, nah, it's cool. I don't bring anything special other then my addiction to upgrades







.


----------



## snef

done, finished

but these are not final photos

the first 2 are to show the spectacular paint job by Hanoverfist

and others are for...................for nothing, just why not haha











img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7669/17117873729_a0d542ab50_b.jpg[/img]


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I want to do youtube... Just not sure of What!!
> 
> And we were leaking something... Not Air though! It was just a matter of "Tubing" before the components set right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I get a High Five.
> 
> I think they call not Air Leak Testing... "Living Dangerously"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "Not Cautious" One (Today)
> 
> (BTW I AM STILL LEAK TESTING THE ONE LOOP) Been... 2 Hours... ?


LOL that made me laugh so hard.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ceadderman, nah, it's cool. I don't bring anything special other then my addiction to upgrades
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Shut up wermad. don't encourage stunts man







... you made the cautious one go uncautious today.. happy?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> done, finished
> 
> but these are not final photos
> 
> the first 2 are to show the spectacular paint job by Hanoverfist
> 
> and others are for...................for nothing, just why not haha
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7669/17117873729_a0d542ab50_b.jpg[/img]


Too Much Bling Maaaah eyes


----------



## erso44

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> done, finished
> 
> but these are not final photos
> 
> the first 2 are to show the spectacular paint job by Hanoverfist
> 
> and others are for...................for nothing, just why not haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7669/17117873729_a0d542ab50_b.jpg[/img]






looks like a coffee machine







lol im joking dude. your building is sexy°


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterMom*
> 
> 
> Complete destruction. Yea, whatever. I went from dual loop to single. Are the 980s coooooool as hell or what? Tried new BIOS for what purpose. To break the cards. Not a millionaire. $1600 is one hell of a lot of money for most. Been ridin' them since December. Is DX12 (Windows 10) coming soon or hopefully


what on earth.....

WHY?! DOUBLE FAN DUDE WHY

and what the f*** is this s*** you´re posting "to break the cards"

Are you going to provocate us with your comment? your comment is offending me!


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> what on earth.....
> 
> WHY?! DOUBLE FAN DUDE WHY
> 
> and what the f*** is this s*** you´re posting "to break the cards"
> 
> Are you going to provocate us with your comment? your comment is offending me!


Shrouds dude, shrouds...I would assume anyway.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Shrouds dude, shrouds...I would assume anyway.


just click few pages back and read his dumb (!) comments.

[To everybody: Sry for being off topic now but I think this guy just spawms our threath..]


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjR20rXA9YQ[/VIDEO]
> 
> The Start.
> 
> Filling another 500ml Right now
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: I GUess most people don't show stuff like this but... I laughed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes... There was water everywhere.


Looking good, only time I have had any big leaks was never really ... I have had a few tubes that did not quite fit and frankly I am pretty supriced that my first try of acrylic tubing went just fine.









Taken in mind my horrible skills of bending acrylic tubing and which design I went for with my personal rig, I got to ask. What is up with that path from the left reservoir (top) to the motherboard block? It is not really fitting your "style" with the rest of the tubing, would it help to move to another G 1/4" port on your reservoir? Just seems weird to be ... other than that, pretty good build.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The "Not Cautious *Crazy*" One (Today)
> 
> (BTW I AM STILL LEAK TESTING THE ONE LOOP) Been... 2 Hours... ?


There... I fixed it for you TCO


----------



## EpicOtis13

My current rig is more than enough for my current use, but I have a hunger for CAD, and doing a new build. I have an idea for my new rig and I want to put it past you guys. I am currently thinking of buying a Parvum S2.0 and putting some crazy stuff in it.
Potential Specs:
i7 5930k
Gigabyte x99M
16gb DDR4
3x 980ti/ r9 390x on release

I would watercool it all, but the big thing would be the external rad that I am thinking about. I want to make it so that when my PC is on my desk it has an external 1080mm rad, and extra d5 to help with flow. But I want to have it hooked up to the External rad with quick disconnects, so that I can detatch the rad, and bring my PC to LAN's or downstair, and jut have it cooled by the internal 360, and 240 rad.

I will do a mock up later tonight.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Looking good, only time I have had any big leaks was never really ... I have had a few tubes that did not quite fit and frankly I am pretty supriced that my first try of acrylic tubing went just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taken in mind my horrible skills of bending acrylic tubing and which design I went for with my personal rig, I got to ask. *What is up with that path from the left reservoir (top) to the motherboard block?* It is not really fitting your "style" with the rest of the tubing, would it help to move to another G 1/4" port on your reservoir? Just seems weird to be ... other than that, pretty good build.


It was the one bend I had to do. I couldn't fit 2 x 90degrees from the existing 90 you see and attach another one by Acrylic tubing to make a straight shot to the Insert of the Motherboard Mosfet block. I had to bend the one tube.

That's the best way I can describe it. I thought I would have enough room from the Drop of the 480mm To have one 90 coming off of it to tube another 90 and thought it would have lined up exactly with the Mosfet Inlet.... It wasn't... I had to get dads Heat gun and try my luck .



The Cautious One


----------



## Hambone07si

Well I'm liking the Titan X so far. Has anyone added a water block to theirs? I would love some recommendations on what blocks work great from you guys vs seeing reviews. I hardly trust reviews anymore as they are usually just saying good things about the stuff they get for free whether it works good or not. I did REALLY like the Aquacomputers Kryographic blocks that I just put on the 780ti's. I do like and always have liked the EK blocks. Any recommendations? I'm all ears to what has worked great for you guys









The Titan X is about 20-25% slower in a few benchmarks so far that I have tested vs the 780ti Sli setup, but this is at stock settings on the TX vs a hefty overclock on the Ti's. Not really fair comparison yet.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm afraid snef's new build is likely to be subject to the 'Curse of the Pharaohs' and whosoever possesses it will be forced to succumb to fire, water and pestilence.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well I'm liking the Titan X so far. Has anyone added a water block to theirs? I would love some recommendations on what blocks work great from you guys vs seeing reviews. I hardly trust reviews anymore as they are usually just saying good things about the stuff they get for free whether it works good or not. I did REALLY like the Aquacomputers Kryographic blocks that I just put on the 780ti's. I do like and always have liked the EK blocks. Any recommendations? I'm all ears to what has worked great for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Titan X is about 20-25% slower in a few benchmarks so far that I have tested vs the 780ti Sli setup, but this is at stock settings on the TX vs a hefty overclock on the Ti's. Not really fair comparison yet.


here mate:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/07/gtx-980-water-block-round-up/

go with either the Aquacomputer one or ek, whatever appeals more to you aesthetically. I am using ek shorties:



installation notes for the ek here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1546747/official-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-x-owners-club/5260#post_23793395

edit - guys quick question. Have 3 mm leds ready to go on ek titan blocks. However they don't stay put and slide in and out quite easily. How would you guys fix it inside the block so I don't risk them sliding out while putting the blocks/gpu back to MB?


----------



## wermad

I applaud all of you that spend a ton of time (and monies) on your rigs, but man, I wouldn't survive such endeavors. I just gotta have my rig to get some gaming. The gaming is therapeutic after long days of stress from work and the little demons that are my offspring (







). I tips my's hats....


----------



## Ceadderman

Try applying a *thin* coating of rubber cement to each bulb. If That doesn't work you can remove the coating and do something else like maye a small bit of reynolds wrap? I'd be worried about static with the RW, but that shount be a problem with rubber cement.









~Ceadder


----------



## spacealiens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My current rig is more than enough for my current use, but I have a hunger for CAD, and doing a new build. I have an idea for my new rig and I want to put it past you guys. I am currently thinking of buying a Parvum S2.0 and putting some crazy stuff in it.
> Potential Specs:
> i7 5930k
> Gigabyte x99M
> 16gb DDR4
> 3x 980ti/ r9 390x on release
> 
> I would watercool it all, but the big thing would be the external rad that I am thinking about. I want to make it so that when my PC is on my desk it has an external 1080mm rad, and extra d5 to help with flow. But I want to have it hooked up to the External rad with quick disconnects, so that I can detatch the rad, and bring my PC to LAN's or downstair, and jut have it cooled by the internal 360, and 240 rad.
> 
> I will do a mock up later tonight.


I'm pretty sure that board won't support 3 way sli. Even if it did, you'd need a gpu that takes up a single PCI slot or use a clumsy set up with PCIe risers, which would look awkward with the sli bridge. I'd like to see an mATX board that supports 3 way sli with single slot cards, though.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> what on earth.....
> 
> WHY?! DOUBLE FAN DUDE WHY
> 
> and what the f*** is this s*** you´re posting "to break the cards"
> 
> Are you going to provocate us with your comment? your comment is offending me!


those could be hollow out fans you know. i do this all time in air cooling to keeps the fan blades away from the mesh and or fan grill to improve air flow and drop noise.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacealiens*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that board won't support 3 way sli. Even if it did, you'd need a gpu that takes up a single PCI slot or use a clumsy set up with PCIe risers, which would look awkward with the sli bridge. I'd like to see an mATX board that supports 3 way sli with single slot cards, though.


You could go w/ some surgery to cut off the dvi connector on the second slot...I've seen it been done before. Would scared the crap out of me in doing it tbh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> those could be hollow out fans you know. i do this all time in air cooling to keeps the fan blades away from the mesh and or fan grill to improve air flow and drop noise.


That was my thought too (shroud), but someone pointed out the owner was rambling on that it was indeed *two* fans (????).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> what on earth.....
> 
> WHY?! DOUBLE FAN DUDE WHY
> 
> and what the f*** is this s*** you´re posting "to break the cards"
> 
> Are you going to provocate us with your comment? your comment is offending me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those could be hollow out fans you know. i do this all time in air cooling to keeps the fan blades away from the mesh and or fan grill to improve air flow and drop noise.
Click to expand...

I did the same thing with my h50 when I had that in my case. I haven't done it for my 360 but have mulled it over a time or two, but just couldn't bring myself to do it considering my temps were already good so haven't and instead ran in Pull to keep the noise minimal and the airflow high.









Unless he clarifies his setup, I fear we may never truly know whether they are shrouds or fans indeed.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Stacking fans is an old trick to double static pressure,very common many years back for heatsinks.


----------



## p5ych00n5

My first attempt at a bend......


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> My first attempt at a bend......


Not too bad. It looks like the tube started to fold in underneath. Try heating up a 3" inch section of the tube next time, rotating at a steady slow speed the entire time. Wait until the tube feels like it could almost bend on its own and then remove it from the heat. Be sure to use some type of mandrel to make a nice even bend. Hold the tube no less than 6" above the heat gun and take your time. You may not need to use the high setting on the gun either. Other than that, it's not bad for your first attempt!!!


----------



## sdmf74

Have any of you guys used a HOT AIR REWORK STATION like this to bend acrylic tube?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Not too bad. It looks like the tube started to fold in underneath. Try heating up a 3" inch section of the tube next time, rotating at a steady slow speed the entire time. Wait until the tube feels like it could almost bend on its own and then remove it from the heat. Be sure to use some type of mandrel to make a nice even bend. Hold the tube no less than 6" above the heat gun and take your time. You may not need to use the high setting on the gun either. Other than that, it's not bad for your first attempt!!!


Cheers mate, I didnt know what's kept me from the plunge to rigid, I also think I didn't heat the tube up quite enough, it took a little bit of a firm touch to bend it, just waiting on the Monsoon kit and the new CPU block so I can plan the rest of the layout.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Cheers mate, I didnt know what's kept me from the plunge to rigid, I also think I didn't heat the tube up quite enough, it took a little bit of a firm touch to bend it, just waiting on the Monsoon kit and the new CPU block so I can plan the rest of the layout.


That Monsoon kit will be a life saver. Definitely heat up the tube until it feels like it could bend without pressure. Just be sure to remove it from heat right when it gets to that point. It's really important to heat up a few inches and to rotate it evenly the entire time. Patience is the key with acrylic/PETG.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> My current rig is more than enough for my current use, but I have a hunger for CAD, and doing a new build. I have an idea for my new rig and I want to put it past you guys. I am currently thinking of buying a Parvum S2.0 and putting some crazy stuff in it.
> Potential Specs:
> i7 5930k
> Gigabyte x99M
> 16gb DDR4
> 3x 980ti/ r9 390x on release
> 
> I would watercool it all, but the big thing would be the external rad that I am thinking about. I want to make it so that when my PC is on my desk it has an external 1080mm rad, and extra d5 to help with flow. But I want to have it hooked up to the External rad with quick disconnects, so that I can detatch the rad, and bring my PC to LAN's or downstair, and jut have it cooled by the internal 360, and 240 rad.
> 
> I will do a mock up later tonight.


You will have to modify the cards to single slot. Not to mention find a motherboard with spacing that can do 3 way. I know the EVGA X99 micro can do 3 way but the spacing requires two single slot cards in the bottom two PCI slots. The Parvum S2.0 only has a bracket with 4 slots as well.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I applaud all of you that spend a ton of time (and monies) on your rigs, but man, I wouldn't survive such endeavors. I just gotta have my rig to get some gaming. The gaming is therapeutic after long days of stress from work and the little demons that are my offspring (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I tips my's hats....


I work from home on my computer, so I need it to be up and running 5 days a week. It makes it hard to find time to work on it, since whatever I do it needs to be finished, filled, leak tested, and up and running 8:00 Monday morning. It kind of takes the fun out of working on it sometimes too. I always feel like I need to rush to finish whatever I am doing, instead of taking my time and just enjoying working on it. I built my fiance a computer, so I just need to get my work stuff on there so I can use it instead.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It was the one bend I had to do. I couldn't fit 2 x 90degrees from the existing 90 you see and attach another one by Acrylic tubing to make a straight shot to the Insert of the Motherboard Mosfet block. I had to bend the one tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That's the best way I can describe it. I thought I would have enough room from the Drop of the 480mm To have one 90 coming off of it to tube another 90 and thought it would have lined up exactly with the Mosfet Inlet.... It wasn't... I had to get dads Heat gun and try my luck .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


I looked at the pictures in your build log and it seems to me that you could do (from the top of the reservoir to the motherboard-block):
90 degree fitting --> C47 --> 90 degree (then 30/45/60 degree fitting with C47's) and then the rest of the loop. OR
90 degree fitting --> C47 --> 90 degree (drop the C47 and use one of these and new 90 degree fitting), then C47 and the rest of the loop (or that part of your loop).
I also thought that those reservoirs you had was multi-top once, but you may use some temperature-sensors on some of them. You could also have the 90 degree from the reservoir pointing towards the 90 degree fitting it is going down to, cut to a longer tube from the first 90 degree to the second 90 degree and use the second tube that you have already cut, it will look better than how it looks now at least. Taken in mind you have gone away from only vertically or horizontal tubing there is really no right answer how you should do it. Personal preference of course.









If that does not work I would have done what you have done and bend the tubing that looks weird so that it gets the right angle to get the tube vertically down into the 90 degree fitting going to the motherboard-block. I never seem to remember where the Mosfet and the Chipset is and frankly I am too lazy to look it up.







I hope you understood what I meant


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I looked at the pictures in your build log and it seems to me that you could do (from the top of the reservoir to the motherboard-block):
> 90 degree fitting --> C47 --> *90 degree (then 30/45/60 degree fitting with C47's*) and then the rest of the loop. OR
> 90 degree fitting --> C47 --> 90 degree (drop the C47 and use one of these and new 90 degree fitting), then C47 and the rest of the loop (or that part of your loop).
> I also thought that those reservoirs you had was multi-top once, but you may use some temperature-sensors on some of them. You could also have the 90 degree from the reservoir pointing towards the 90 degree fitting it is going down to, cut to a longer tube from the first 90 degree to the second 90 degree and use the second tube that you have already cut, it will look better than how it looks now at least. Taken in mind you have gone away from only vertically or horizontal tubing there is really no right answer how you should do it. Personal preference of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that does not work I would have done what you have done and bend the tubing that looks weird so that it gets the right angle to get the tube vertically down into the 90 degree fitting going to the motherboard-block. I never seem to remember where the Mosfet and the Chipset is and frankly I am too lazy to look it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you understood what I meant


The Bend from the 480 to Mosfet was 100% necessary.

Mosfet is at the Top of the RVE and the Chipset is in line with the GPUS first of all.

Second, at some point I decided to not buy any more fittings as my bill was over 1000$ with what you see now.

The Reservoirs are multi top and temp sensors are not going to be installed. I have the aqua flow 400 sensors ( Going to instal one on the soft tubing going from the 480mm at the top to the 240mm in the bottom of the case behind the back door of the case) The cables that come with it ( at least one of them is a little short







) so still pondering installation of those.

The Loop layouts will not be changed for better or for worse. The Gpu loop I am certain is exactly what I wanted. The Cpu loop ( The Layout of the CPU BLOCK ) could possibly be turned 180 in the future to accommodate straight lines to the mosfet and chipset.

The Cautious One.


----------



## Roxycon

@TheCautiousOne awesome tattoo man


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> LOL that made me laugh so hard.
> Shut up wermad. don't encourage stunts man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... you made the cautious one go uncautious today.. happy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too Much Bling Maaaah eyes


Hehehe








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I work from home on my computer, so I need it to be up and running 5 days a week. It makes it hard to find time to work on it, since whatever I do it needs to be finished, filled, leak tested, and up and running 8:00 Monday morning. It kind of takes the fun out of working on it sometimes too. I always feel like I need to rush to finish whatever I am doing, instead of taking my time and just enjoying working on it. I built my fiance a computer, so I just need to get my work stuff on there so I can use it instead.


I work from home too, but the office gave me a simple dell desktop for work. My rig, is my own and don't use it other for my personal use. Once I adopted 4k and started gaming, it is really fun.


----------



## erso44

deleted


----------



## wermad

Most of the time, you don't need water cooling unless you're pushing your cpu 5.5+ on exotic cooling. Koolance does make universal blocks. There are two blocks and then you add the plate that matches your vrm design dimensions. I used one before and its a simple and effective (if you want the wc application).

Have you checked w/ other x79 sabertooth owners if you're temps are normal? Maybe you need better air flow?


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Most of the time, you don't need water cooling unless you're pushing your cpu 5.5+ on exotic cooling. Koolance does make universal blocks. There are two blocks and then you add the plate that matches your vrm design dimensions. I used one before and its a simple and effective (if you want the wc application).
> 
> Have you checked w/ other x79 sabertooth owners if you're temps are normal? Maybe you need better air flow?


I found one and ordered one for mosfet and one for northbridge (? the chip below)
But I hope that northbridge cooler will not make isuess to sli cards...:O

So I ordered them

http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=asus+sabertooth+x79+alphacool&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aasus+sabertooth+x79+alphacool


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Ramzinho
Quote:


> LOL that made me laugh so hard.
> Shut up wermad. don't encourage stunts man smile.gif ... you made *the cautious one go uncautious today*.. happy? rolleyes.gif
> Too Much Bling Maaaah eyes eek.gif


I'm Sorry I didn't see this earlier!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne awesome tattoo man


Hey I appreciate that. I used to drink... A lot... That guy was so I never had to drink alone! ( Been sober for 4 years now)

The Cautious One.

I used to spend 500$ a month on Booze. 500 x 12month = 6000$ a Year.

The Computer was a treat for myself.

This is what 6000$ Looks Like (actually 7000 but whose counting)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Bend from the 480 to Mosfet was 100% necessary.
> 
> Mosfet is at the Top of the RVE and the Chipset is in line with the GPUS first of all.
> 
> Second, at some point I decided to not buy any more fittings as my bill was over 1000$ with what you see now.
> 
> The Reservoirs are multi top and temp sensors are not going to be installed. I have the aqua flow 400 sensors ( Going to instal one on the soft tubing going from the 480mm at the top to the 240mm in the bottom of the case behind the back door of the case) The cables that come with it ( at least one of them is a little short
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so still pondering installation of those.
> 
> The Loop layouts will not be changed for better or for worse. The Gpu loop I am certain is exactly what I wanted. The Cpu loop ( The Layout of the CPU BLOCK ) could possibly be turned 180 in the future to accommodate straight lines to the mosfet and chipset.
> 
> The Cautious One.


Hi, the bend from the 480 to the Mosfet is just fine. I was talking about the routing from the top of your left reservoir to the chipset-block, it would seem like you got a weird angle on the acrylic tubing between the second 90 degree fitting and the third 90 degree fitting.

For the GPU loop I agree with you, it is spotless really (and is by the way the way I personally would have done it), but the Mosfet-CPU-Chipset is another story, I tried with fittings only, fittings and acrylic, just acrylic tubing and the way I ended up doing it (and I have to say I was most happy with the way it ended), the tubing did not get more than 85-90%, but in the end I am very happy.







It is just conservative criticism, not complaining.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Hi, the bend from the 480 to the Mosfet is just fine. I was talking about the routing from the top of your left reservoir to the chipset-block, *it would seem like you got a weird angle on the acrylic tubing between the second 90 degree fitting* and the third 90 degree fitting.
> 
> For the GPU loop I agree with you, it is spotless really (and is by the way the way I personally would have done it), but the Mosfet-CPU-Chipset is another story, I tried with fittings only, fittings and acrylic, just acrylic tubing and the way I ended up doing it (and I have to say I was most happy with the way it ended), the tubing did not get more than 85-90%, but in the end I am very happy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is just conservative criticism, not complaining.


It's cantered about 45Degrees. But a straight shot nonetheless from the Outlet of the Chipset to the Res

I've heard short runs are better to dissipate heat.

The Cautious One.

Appreciate the Criticism. No Problem friend.


----------



## Dzuks

Got rid of the rear 140 rad, the bay res, and the XSPC RS360 up top. Got a HWLabs Xtreme 360 rad and moved the D6 pump into the Bitspower ensemble. Going acrylic!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Got rid of the rear 140 rad, the bay res, and the XSPC RS360 up top. Got a HWLabs Xtreme 360 rad and moved the D6 pump into the Bitspower ensemble. Going acrylic!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


That top 360 is pull only right?

If so, i did it like that for a good while then people told me to switch it to push intake so i did and it made a big difference. I just have 1 exhaust fan and lots of positive pressure now.


----------



## fisher6

First watercooling loop:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Got rid of the rear 140 rad, the bay res, and the XSPC RS360 up top. Got a HWLabs Xtreme 360 rad and moved the D6 pump into the Bitspower ensemble. Going acrylic!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That top 360 is pull only right?
> 
> If so, i did it like that for a good while then people told me to switch it to push intake so i did and it made a big difference. I just have 1 exhaust fan and lots of positive pressure now.
Click to expand...

I could be wrong but it looks like Push/Pull to me. Too much of the Radiator is showing which leads me to believe that it is P/P.









Also looking at the bottom Radiator setup, I figure it looks the same up top.









~Ceadder


----------



## l3p

Recently upgraded my hardware and loop


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's cantered about 45Degrees. But a straight shot nonetheless from the Outlet of the Chipset to the Res
> 
> I've heard short runs are better to dissipate heat.
> 
> The Cautious One.
> 
> Appreciate the Criticism. No Problem friend.


I got it. I thought you wanted the same look of that loop as of your GPU-loop.









One question though, is the radiator in front easier to drain with the ports on the top or on the bottom? I have my EK-XTC 420 with the ports up top in my PC-V8. Also, could the SMA8 take 1x EK-XTX 480 (64 mm thick) up top, 1x EK-XTC 420 (55 mm thick) in the front and 2x EK-PE 480s (40 mm thick) + 25mm fans in pull or push at the same time in the SMA8?


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> You will have to modify the cards to single slot. Not to mention find a motherboard with spacing that can do 3 way. I know the EVGA X99 micro can do 3 way but the spacing requires two single slot cards in the bottom two PCI slots. The Parvum S2.0 only has a bracket with 4 slots as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacealiens*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that board won't support 3 way sli. Even if it did, you'd need a gpu that takes up a single PCI slot or use a clumsy set up with PCIe risers, which would look awkward with the sli bridge. I'd like to see an mATX board that supports 3 way sli with single slot cards, though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You could go w/ some surgery to cut off the dvi connector on the second slot...I've seen it been done before. Would scared the crap out of me in doing it tbh.


My plan was to use the gigabyte matx x99 board and buy single slot cards, if needed I would probably even be on with just removing the dvi on the bottom two cards all together. I think that 3 card xfire/sli in matx might be a first, and that would be amazing. If there is a single slot card version released, I could also fit a sound card in between the top and middle card.
Also just wondering if you guys think that 1000w is enough for 3 way xfire, or should I splurge on a 1300w psu?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> My plan was to use the gigabyte matx x99 board and buy single slot cards, if needed I would probably even be on with just removing the dvi on the bottom two cards all together. I think that 3 card xfire/sli in matx might be a first, and that would be amazing. If there is a single slot card version released, I could also fit a sound card in between the top and middle card.
> Also just wondering if you guys think that 1000w is enough for 3 way xfire, or should I splurge on a 1300w psu?


It's dependant on whether you wish to OC and what your power consumption will be per card. 1200w should be more than enough. Heck even 1000w could do the job. But @ 1000w your PSU may ramp up more often which would be a negative should you wish to run quieter. I would suggest 1200w and others will suggest more. Go with an EVGA 1200p series PSU and you should be just fine. I like the Corsairs too, but I am plugging the EVGA because they're Platinum series. But Corsair or Seasonic would be my other recommendeds.









~Ceadder


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l3p*
> 
> Recently upgraded my hardware and loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OMG, I'm so jelly!









That is straight up amazing. Very impressive when you can check this thread daily and still see something that makes your jaw drop.

Any pics of the rads? What is that round piece between the motherboard and pumps? Also what is that white part behind the motherboard? More details and pics please...


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l3p*
> 
> Recently upgraded my hardware and loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Smexy!









How is the cooling performance? I think a desk would be my next project (in future ofcourse)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l3p*
> 
> Recently upgraded my hardware and loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


Slinky's spawn














(j/k)

Omg-a.....sick









Now I miss my old uv green setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> My plan was to use the gigabyte matx x99 board and buy single slot cards, if needed I would probably even be on with just removing the dvi on the bottom two cards all together. I think that 3 card xfire/sli in matx might be a first, and that would be amazing. If there is a single slot card version released, I could also fit a sound card in between the top and middle card.
> Also just wondering if you guys think that 1000w is enough for 3 way xfire, or should I splurge on a 1300w psu?


Hawaii? I had three 290s triX stock. I would say 1200w is safe for triplets if you plan to dial up the clocks and run x79/x99. My current setup needs more specific power requirements and 1300 at minimum stock clocked all around.


----------



## l3p

Thanks man! Well it's actually already a 5 year old desk-pc








Best is to google for 'L3p D3sk 2015'









My radiator (Aquacomputer 1080) is below my house/floor. The round piece is an Aquacomputer Aquatube Nickel plated edition, left of it a small flowmeter from Koolance.
The white part on the motherboard is the I/O panel housing of the ASUS X99 Deluxe


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Spoilers Werm?

Thats L3p D3sk,the log is on OCN.


----------



## wermad

On phone, IT is working on my work desktop. Will just delete. Ocn mobile -> hulk smash!


----------



## l3p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Smexy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is the cooling performance? I think a desk would be my next project (in future ofcourse)


Cooling here works perfectly, but that's thanks to the radiator under my house. Temps would be a little higher if it was in ambient temp


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That top 360 is pull only right?
> 
> If so, i did it like that for a good while then people told me to switch it to push intake so i did and it made a big difference. I just have 1 exhaust fan and lots of positive pressure now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I could be wrong but it looks like Push/Pull to me. Too much of the Radiator is showing which leads me to believe that it is P/P.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also looking at the bottom Radiator setup, I figure it looks the same up top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Both rads are push/pull. I'll turn the top fans around and aim for better static pressure. hopefully it make a difference.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I got it. I thought you wanted the same look of that loop as of your GPU-loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One question though, *is the radiator in front easier to drain with the ports on the top or on the bottom?* I have my EK-XTC 420 with the ports up top in my PC-V8. Also, could the SMA8 take 1x EK-XTX 480 (64 mm thick) up top, 1x EK-XTC 420 (55 mm thick) in the front and 2x EK-PE 480s (40 mm thick) + 25mm fans in pull or push at the same time in the SMA8?


The 2 x 480mm Rads are EK XTX 480s.



The XTX 480 in the lower compartment is Super Easy to Drain...




I used the "5th" Port of the XTX as a drain port Fitted with a Male/Male bitspower Fitting.

When you say The Radiator in the Front... you mean the lower compartment of the case (Front Side) or The 480mm XTX Mounted in the Main Bay of the SMA8?



You could have the XTX 480s like they are in my case. If you were to add another XTX 480 in the lower compartment (where the PSU is supposed to be) I do not think that would work as the 480mm Rad wouldn't allow the PSU to be mounted in the case, unless modded somehow.

Push/Pull isn't possible in the main bay unless you had a 39mm Extended top for the SMA8 in which case the fans would be mounted on the top of the case not P/P inside the Main bay.

You could have P/P in the lower compartment for sure on the 480.

The Cautious One


----------



## Recr3ational

Yo guys. What's the deal with painting/colouring capacitors? I have a super old mobo that has the ugly silver/blue colour. Safe to do or??

Cheersssss

Edit: well I say super old, it isn't. It's just ugly.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Yo guys. What's the deal with painting/colouring capacitors? I have a super old mobo that has the ugly silver/blue colour. Safe to do or??
> 
> Cheersssss
> 
> Edit: well I say super old, it isn't. It's just ugly.


Everything ive raid says its ok. Ive even seen where people spraypaint the whole mobo. Just make sure you dont get any paint that could be potentially conductive ( i dont personally know of any, mabie metal flake colors)


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l3p*
> 
> Cooling here works perfectly, but that's thanks to the radiator under my house. Temps would be a little higher if it was in ambient temp


aha...8880 gb hhd/ssd capacity. dayum mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Both rads are push/pull. I'll turn the top fans around and aim for better static pressure. hopefully it make a difference.


eh dzuks can you tell me what kinda screws you got to mount fan´s with rad´s?
can you pls take closer picture´s I would like to see them. Because they look thick








mine are very thin and I cant install on a rad a fan and mount it on the top of the case because they fall through the wholes for normal fan screw´s


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Yo guys. What's the deal with painting/colouring capacitors? I have a super old mobo that has the ugly silver/blue colour. Safe to do or??
> 
> Cheersssss
> 
> Edit: well I say super old, it isn't. It's just ugly.


Yeah you can paint it. Just make sure your contacts are properly covered in your taping process and your chipsets are covered as well. You can use old hardware for your PCI slots and liquid electrical tape to cover your necessaries that cannot be covered up with hardware. People paint their Mainboards quite a bit.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

For 3x xfire I say over a 1000watt. Just on my 4790k with 2x 780 @ 1200 (they max higher but the extra 100mhz doesnt do enough for the power/heat it requires/uses) I need a 1000watt. As of right now I have a 850watt seasonic and i can't overclock my Gpus without it being unstable and ****ting off every so often. Plus like other mentioned 1200 or 1300watt will allow for it to be quiet


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 x 480mm Rads are EK XTX 480s.
> 
> 
> 
> The XTX 480 in the lower compartment is Super Easy to Drain...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the "5th" Port of the XTX as a drain port Fitted with a Male/Male bitspower Fitting.
> 
> When you say The Radiator in the Front... you mean the lower compartment of the case (Front Side) or The 480mm XTX Mounted in the Main Bay of the SMA8?
> 
> 
> 
> You could have the XTX 480s like they are in my case. If you were to add another XTX 480 in the lower compartment (where the PSU is supposed to be) I do not think that would work as the 480mm Rad wouldn't allow the PSU to be mounted in the case, unless modded somehow.
> 
> Push/Pull isn't possible in the main bay unless you had a 39mm Extended top for the SMA8 in which case the fans would be mounted on the top of the case not P/P inside the Main bay.
> 
> You could have P/P in the lower compartment for sure on the 480.
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


I would have done the same in the basement of my case if I could fit two EK-XTX 480s, but I only have 2x EK-PE 480s (and those radiators only have two G 1/4" ports, sadly).

Radiator in the front (of the case) means the radiator in the front of your case







I guess you have an EK-XTX 240 or something, could you have mounted an EK-XTC 420 in that area of the case (where the 5 1/4" bays usually are) instead of the EK-XTX 240?

Also, the LD Cooling PC-V8 have to be taller than this case, where I have both my EK-PE 480s mounted underneath the PSU, full motherboard height and the EK-XTX 480 with fans in the top (and I have better space in the top below the fans to the Mosfet-block than you too). I was just trying to get an overview of the cooling capasity of the SMA8 vs. the PC-V8. I have mounted 3x 480s and 1x 420 and I still have place for 1x 120 radiator in the rear of the case). I calculated with 2x EK-PE (40 mm each) + 25 mm fans (x2) = 130 mm and 85 mm between each radiator in the bottom compartment (I had about 5 mm between each radiator and my pumptops (perfect fit if you ask me)). I did not take any pictures of the bottom compartment, but there is just a big mess down there now.


Just a picture to show how my radiators are placed and how tall the case really is.


Picture to show the space between the fans on the EK-XTX 480 in the top and the Mosfet-block.









The tubing is not straight (I know), but I was so tired of getting it right so I ended up with this. Might try to get some of the bends a little better later on.









Three-four hours of Tomb Raider and my 4930K @ 4,7Ghz did not break 49C on the hottest core.







Overkill on radiators is awesome!


----------



## patrickkel

Hello fellow south Louisianian!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patrickkel*
> 
> Hello fellow south Louisianian!


There he is!! Sup Brother??

@Gobigorgohome I couldn't have 3 x 480s in the SMA8.

THe 240mm in the main bay possibly could be upgraded to a 360 comfortably.

So I could See a total of 2 x 480mm Rads. and 2 x 360mm Rads. ( 1 x 360mm in the Bottom Compartment and 1 x 360mm in the Main Bay. )

The Cautious ONe


----------



## wermad

All yous in your CL making me want to get another one.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> All yous in your CL making me want to get another one.....


Well hop on the Wagon, Im getting a bunch of Horses ( About 8 of them) and we will ride on our Caselabs Cases into the Sunset.

The Cautious One


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> All yous in your CL making me want to get another one.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well hop on the Wagon, Im getting a bunch of Horses ( *About 8 of them*) and we will ride on our Caselabs Cases into the Sunset.
> 
> The Cautious One
Click to expand...

Dang Cautious, that's a lot of Caselab cases. Wanna sponsor my build?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

@TCO

Lol...you made my day (dealing w/ crap all day from job). Don't know...the only viable model is the th10/a but I really love my old sth10. Trying to keep my quad monstas.


----------



## patrickkel

The EK Vulture looks neat. I want to water cool my system but i don't really like the rosewill blackhawk ultra case that i bought for my first build.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dang Cautious, that's a lot of Caselab cases. Wanna sponsor my build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No! I was making a Pun about a V8 ( Get it... 8 Horses... RIding them)
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @TCO
> 
> Lol...you made my day (dealing w/ crap all day from job). Don't know...the only viable model is the th10/a but I really love my old sth10. Trying to keep my quad monstas.


Good Wermad. You deserve a laugh. Get what you want and be a free spirit! Keep the Monstas and rock um hard!









TCO

I am going to have to buy another caselabs for my work computer I intend to build. I need to finish this Sma8 first. I have to replace my 7 year old laptop (Asus) I am typing to y'all on. It has a Centrino 2 (Dual Core.. Ooo Ahhh.. So Nice.. So hott... So... Blue Screen of Death every 10 Days for no apparent reason)


----------



## SteezyTN

Is it okay to mix copper and nickel to a loop running mayhems pastel coolant?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is it okay to mix copper and nickel to a loop running mayhems pastel coolant?


I certainly hope so!

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I certainly hope so!
> 
> TCO


You're running the Nickel CSQ 980 blocks, right? I just picked up a Titan X for $926.99, and I'm thinking about the Titan x CSQ version.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol yeah I got it the first time Cautious. Just givin ya the biz.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You're running the Nickel CSQ 980 blocks, right? I just picked up a Titan X for $926.99, and I'm thinking about the Titan x CSQ version.


Well stop thinking you're going to hurt yourself. Get it, Hug it, Polish it... and work it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lol yeah I got it the first time Cautious. Just givin ya the biz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










Wow.. YOu went right over my head







I appreciate that.

The Cautious One


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well stop thinking you're going to hurt yourself. Get it, Hug it, Polish it... and work it!
> 
> The Cautious One


whats with the links that yours use? They don't look like normal links. Is that what came with the blocks. And no polishing for me. I kind of like the frost look.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @TCO
> 
> Lol...you made my day (dealing w/ crap all day from job). Don't know...the only viable model is the th10/a but I really love my old sth10. Trying to keep my quad monstas.




'Tis the circle of life!


----------



## wermad

you guys gonna get me kicked out to the dog house


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you guys gonna get me kicked out to the dog house


Lol...In that case use the new th10 as a temp house...it would be cozy for you









edit - @Ceadderman thks for the tip mate. I end up using electrical tape to hold the leds in the slots.


----------



## Trestles126

Swapping my parts from my luxe to a new caselabs s8

Adding a ram block a 360 radiator and a aquatube filter

More pics to come drained and swapped the mobo to the new case last night


----------



## Ceadderman

That Aquacomputer piece with the plate on on it holding the unit together is that a filter/res combo?









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> whats with the links that yours use? They don't look like normal links. Is that what came with the blocks. And no polishing for me. I kind of like the frost look.


It Tis " EK FC Bridge Single CSQ - Plexi " Link to Look at Item

You pair this with the Connection that comes with the Block











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you guys gonna get me kicked out to the dog house


That is the Opportunity and Decision you Must Make Sir. OCN Or .... Work









TCO

EDIT: TOOk a couple pics from the Side.


----------



## Trestles126

Filter its smaller than the pic makes it seem
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That Aquacomputer piece with the plate on on it holding the unit together is that a filter/res combo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

Just Sharing.










Spoiler: MAY 2, 2015!



https://www.facebook.com/PerformancePCs/photos/a.147817155291179.36406.145556878850540/860613254011562/?type=1&fref=nf


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It Tis " EK FC Bridge Single CSQ - Plexi " Link to Look at Item
> 
> You pair this with the Connection that comes with the Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the Opportunity and Decision you Must Make Sir. OCN Or .... Work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: TOOk a couple pics from the Side.


Thanks a lot man. Appreciate these photos. I see that there would be a gap from the terminal and the card. I know that we have different cases, but do you think the top port would align to the top of my radiator? I would use a 90, and make one 90 degree bend. Or would I be better off getting the acetal versions? I just don't want to have the terminal extend to far out, and not have it line up with the port on the rad.

Nevermind. I don't want to take the chance. I'm just going to go with the Nickel Acetal block. But I think I'm going to go with the red backplate (I'm going to use white coolant)


----------



## emsj86

Small update. Sli plate, gpu cables, and sound card backplate. (Forgot to snip the red leds. It's late and I'm tired will snip the red leds when my 1000w psu comes in next week).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Thanks a lot man. Appreciate these photos. I see that there would be a gap from the terminal and the card. I know that we have different cases, but do you think the top port would align to the top of my radiator? I would use a 90, and make one 90 degree bend. Or would I be better off getting the acetal versions? I just don't want to have the terminal extend to far out, and not have it line up with the port on the rad.
> 
> Nevermind. I don't want to take the chance. I'm just going to go with the Nickel Acetal block. But I think I'm going to go with the red backplate (I'm going to use white coolant)


Oh Bro... That's your call. There is a way to connect it to the Top port of the rad, I can tell you that for sure. The Question is... would this part be essential to your build? I went all CSQ because I could polish them and the look. Period.

The Cautious One.

EDIT: I see you edited your post.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh Bro... That's your call. There is a way to connect it to the Top port of the rad, I can tell you that for sure. The Question is... would this part be essential to your build? I went all CSQ because I could polish them and the look. Period.
> 
> The Cautious One.
> 
> EDIT: I see you edited your post.


Yeah, I just want them to align evenly, where all I have to do it make a straight 90 degree bend. I'm trying to make this a clean look, and it would appear that the terminal like you have, would extend past the top rad port, which would make me have to twist the fittings for the right bend. I appercaite the help.

I'm going to get the red anodized backplate for the titan X bedcuase that would match very well with my motherboard and fans, and look well with the white coolant.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Lol...In that case use the new th10 as a temp house...it would be cozy for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit - @Ceadderman thks for the tip mate. I end up using electrical tape to hold the leds in the slots.


Lol, this is an oldie but effective idea







. I'll have to think about it and beg








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It Tis " EK FC Bridge Single CSQ - Plexi " Link to Look at Item
> 
> You pair this with the Connection that comes with the Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the Opportunity and Decision you Must Make Sir. OCN Or .... Work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


More worried about the missus


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yeah, I just want them to align evenly, where all I have to do it make a straight 90 degree bend. I'm trying to make this a clean look, and it would appear that the terminal like you have, would extend past the top rad port, which would make me have to twist the fittings for the right bend. I appercaite the help.
> 
> I'm going to get the red anodized backplate for the titan X bedcuase that would match very well with my motherboard and fans, and look well with the white coolant.


you can always use this one mate if you want to replace the default black acetal with plexi. Noticed also that I inverted it so the ekwb is in the correct orientation with the block for a reverse atx:


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can always use this one mate if you want to replace the default black acetal with plexi. Noticed also that I inverted it so the ekwb is the correct orientation with the block for a reverse atx:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I already went ahead and ordered the Nickel Acetal block. In a way, it doesn't really matter to me, because they perform the same way AND both look good. It really is a hard decision. (where you talking about the CSQ block, or just meaning the terminal?) Plus the fact is that the CSQ block is on preorder/backorder, and no telling when it will actually ship (PPCS). I went ahead and also ordered the red backplate. Should match well with my color theme.

Knowing me, I will probably want something else or need something else, so I might be placing an order for the plexi terminal to go with the acetal block. But for now, its no big deal.

I realy like how you set your up. What cards are they?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I already went ahead and ordered the Nickel Acetal block. In a way, it doesn't really matter to me, because they perform the same way AND both look good. It really is a hard decision. (where you talking about the CSQ block, or just meaning the terminal?) Plus the fact is that the CSQ block is on preorder/backorder, and no telling when it will actually ship (PPCS). I went ahead and also ordered the red backplate. Should match well with my color theme.
> 
> Knowing me, I will probably want something else or need something else, so I might be placing an order for the plexi terminal to go with the acetal block. But for now, its no big deal.
> 
> I realy like how you set your up. What cards are they?


Ah, my bad I thought you were asking about the terminal. Two TXs. I saw you are one of the newest members to the club







Beast of a card. One TXs OCed to 1520 Mhz beat soundly my two original titans in sli at 1100 Mhz.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ah, my bad I thought you were asking about the terminal. Two TXs. I saw you are one of the newest members to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beast of a card. One TXs OCed to 1520 Mhz beat soundly my two original titans in sli at 1100 Mhz.


I was. Mainly just asking because the CSQ and Acetal blocks have different terminals. The CSQ block is also different than the clear Nickel block (which I think you have). That one is pretty much the same as the acetal versions, just not a full full cover. It only covers part of the PCB.

And yeah, at the price for the TX SC, I couldn't pass it up. Normally, everyplace, such as amazon or newegg, they charge tax to where I am. TigerDirect does not, and they also had the 10% off. I'm actually surprised that TigerDirect had them in stock. So I pretty much got a free waterblock and backplate for the price if I were to pay full price and taxes for the TX SC.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I was. Mainly just asking because the CSQ and Acetal blocks have different terminals. The CSQ block is also different than the clear Nickel block (which I think you have). That one is pretty much the same as the acetal versions, just not a full full cover. It only covers part of the PCB.
> 
> And yeah, at the price for the TX SC, I couldn't pass it up. Normally, everyplace, such as amazon or newegg, they charge tax to where I am. TigerDirect does not, and they also had the 10% off. I'm actually surprised that TigerDirect had them in stock. So I pretty much got a free waterblock and backplate for the price if I were to pay full price and taxes for the TX SC.


Yep, the plexy terminal is just like the black acetal default that comes with the card. But mind you, since most cards are mounted in normal atx the ekwb letters would be upside down in a reverse atx. So I took that off and reverse it. One side effect for you in particular it seems is that the extension that terminal sit above the block is smaller when you do that (by a few mm).

uploading a video of the filling process of the loop (for I hope the last time) last night after installing the leds. Only the 3 mm led were illuminating the blocks during the video. will post link here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56TYBl_uSY0&feature=youtu.be


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Stacking fans is an old trick to double static pressure,very common many years back for heatsinks.


i wonder fi it would work better with a hollow fan between the 2.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, this is an oldie but effective idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll have to think about it and beg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More worried about the missus*


Oh yea.... About those







Maybe Using the TX10 Or whatnot as a temp apt is a good idea.









The Cautious One


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I was. Mainly just asking because the CSQ and Acetal blocks have different terminals. The CSQ block is also different than the clear Nickel block (which I think you have). That one is pretty much the same as the acetal versions, just not a full full cover. It only covers part of the PCB.
> 
> And yeah, at the price for the TX SC, I couldn't pass it up. Normally, everyplace, such as amazon or newegg, they charge tax to where I am. TigerDirect does not, and *they also had the 10% off*. I'm actually surprised that TigerDirect had them in stock. So I pretty much got a free waterblock and backplate for the price if I were to pay full price and taxes for the TX SC.


How did you get the 10% off? I'm about to order 2 Titan X's and that would really help.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> i wonder fi it would work better with a hollow fan between the 2.


You mean a shroud? Controversial that. Works for some and not others&#8230; I guess it all depends on the set up.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Bridge painted in the build theme (chessboard). I think this is the last piece of the build after the painted GTs. Soon final pictures


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Bridge painted in the build theme (chessboard). I think this is the last piece of the build after the painted GTs. Soon final pictures


Looking sleek Gabriel!


----------



## derickwm

Hello everyone,

In relation to the 980 KPE Block: we apologize for the situation at hand. It's unfortunate that it happened this way but we have a resolution. All future water blocks will be of course modified to take into account the test pins.

*FOR CURRENT OWNERS YOU HAVE TWO OPTIONS:
Option 1 - Modify the EK block:* if you modify ONLY the part of the block that is obstructing the pins, your warranty from us will not be voided.

*Option 2 - Modify the EVGA PCB:* We have received official confirmation that if you cut the test pins on the 980KPE, your warranty on the card will remain intact.

We again apologize to our customers for the inconvenience and hope that this helps clear the situation up. Please spread this message wherever you deem necessary.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Gobigorgohome I couldn't have 3 x 480s in the SMA8.
> 
> THe 240mm in the main bay possibly could be upgraded to a 360 comfortably.
> 
> So I could See a total of 2 x 480mm Rads. and 2 x 360mm Rads. ( 1 x 360mm in the Bottom Compartment and 1 x 360mm in the Main Bay. )
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Okay, thank you. I guess I keep my PC-V8 for a while.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Monsoon Kit arrived today, so here's the second attempt which is a lot tighter at a 90 but I'm still getting a kink on the bottom of the bend.

I heated up a greater length than my first attempt and waited until the tube couldn't hold it's own weight when I let go of the end, trial and error trial and error so I made sure I ordered excess tubing for my needs so I can experiment before the final loop







. I thank everyone with the patience to guide me









_EDIT_

Ooh Ooh forgot to mention the CPU Block turns up tomorrow, so I will have the whole weekend to (hopefully) have this up and running


----------



## ExiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon Kit arrived today, so here's the second attempt which is a lot tighter at a 90 but I'm still getting a kink on the bottom of the bend.
> 
> I heated up a greater length than my first attempt and waited until the tube couldn't hold it's own weight when I let go of the end, trial and error trial and error so I made sure I ordered excess tubing for my needs so I can experiment before the final loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I thank everyone with the patience to guide me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _EDIT_
> 
> Ooh Ooh forgot to mention the CPU Block turns up tomorrow, so I will have the whole weekend to (hopefully) have this up and running


Nearly there, its hard to get right first time and takes some practice, I threw away 2 lengths of pipes when practicing. Was that with the pipe insert used ? looks like the bend is thinner than the straight section which is what the insert is supposed to stop from happening. It also looks like the acrylic has stretched and extruded because the 90 section is too tight over a small section of pipe. I used a 40mm diameter mandrel to get wider curves to avoid this. To make it easy the curved section from start to finish should use around 3/4 inches of pipe to avoid stretching and kinking. You can make them tighter but its harder to avoid these issues and you have to do it slower. It shouldn't require much pressure to do the bend, if it does its not warm enough throughout and that's why you could get that indent where you pressed it up against the mandrel whilst bending


----------



## p5ych00n5

Yah the monsoon kit came with an insert, I think I may have applied to much pressure thinking I have to hold it firmly until the tube cools. Practice makes perfect, BRB firing up the heatgun again









_EDIT_

I think I figured it out, I assume I was heating the tube up too much

_EDIT_

I was also starting the bend at the top of the Mandrel then pulling both ends of the tubing down whether that makes a difference versus starting at the bottom of one end of the Mandrel and then forming


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Yah the monsoon kit came with an insert, I think I may have applied to much pressure thinking I have to hold it firmly until the tube cools. Practice makes perfect, BRB firing up the heatgun again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _EDIT_
> 
> I think I figured it out, I assume I was heating the tube up too much
> 
> _EDIT_
> 
> I was also starting the bend at the top of the Mandrel then pulling both ends of the tubing down whether that makes a difference versus starting at the bottom of one end of the Mandrel and then forming


You may have bent it too fast. Once the tube feels like it won't be able to hold its own weight (hopefully at this point you have patiently rotated the tube all the way around, keeping the tube at least 6" above the gun) you'll want to bring it to the mandrel and slowly bend then hold it there and let it cool.

My last suggestion would be to take this discussion to the Acrylic pipebending 101 thread. You'll find plenty of experienced benders over there along with a lot of tips.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You may have bent it too fast. Once the tube feels like it won't be able to hold its own weight (hopefully at this point you have patiently rotated the tube all the way around, keeping the tube at least 6" above the gun) you'll want to bring it to the mandrel and slowly bend then hold it there and let it cool.
> 
> My last suggestion would be to take this discussion to the Acrylic pipebending 101 thread. You'll find plenty of experienced benders over there along with a lot of tips.


You are right, I rotated the tube waited until it started to sag and then slowly bent it starting bottom left, carefully formed it around the Mandrel then held both ends for 5 or so minutes, TaDa kinks gone


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You may have bent it too fast. Once the tube feels like it won't be able to hold its own weight (hopefully at this point you have patiently rotated the tube all the way around, keeping the tube at least 6" above the gun) you'll want to bring it to the mandrel and slowly bend then hold it there and let it cool.
> 
> My last suggestion would be to take this discussion to the Acrylic pipebending 101 thread. You'll find plenty of experienced benders over there along with a lot of tips.
> 
> 
> 
> You are right, I rotated the tube waited until it started to sag and then slowly bent it starting bottom left, carefully formed it around the Mandrel then held both ends for 5 or so minutes, TaDa kinks gone
Click to expand...

Good,its all about patience and technique,there is no need to rush the job,take your time with it.
A lot of the mistakes you see are down to poor technique.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> You are right, I rotated the tube waited until it started to sag and then slowly bent it starting bottom left, carefully formed it around the Mandrel then held both ends for 5 or so minutes, TaDa kinks gone


That is awesome! Do you have a build log? If not, you should start one. I'd enjoy watching your progress and I'm sure others would too!


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> aha...8880 gb hhd/ssd capacity. dayum mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eh dzuks can you tell me what kinda screws you got to mount fan´s with rad´s?
> can you pls take closer picture´s I would like to see them. Because they look thick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine are very thin and I cant install on a rad a fan and mount it on the top of the case because they fall through the wholes for normal fan screw´s


I used M4s I got from home depot. Link below:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-M4-30-mm-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screws-2-Pack-36898/202836134


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good,its all about patience and technique,there is no need to rush the job,take your time with it.
> A lot of the mistakes you see are down to poor technique.


I could have cheated somewhat and just got 90s/60s fittings and adapters etc to just connect straight tubing







(don't get me wrong, it looks awesome in some builds and when used correctly) but I want to learn the craft without resorting to a crutch


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, thank you. I guess I keep my PC-V8 for a while.


I would expect nothing Less









THe Cautious One


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I could have cheated somewhat and just got 90s/60s fittings and adapters etc to just connect straight tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (don't get me wrong, it looks awesome in some builds and when used correctly) but I want to learn the craft without resorting to a crutch


That is worth some rep right there. +1


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That is worth some rep right there. +1










cheers mate, once the builds done I might post a gallery of the abominations of bends that result


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That is awesome! Do you have a build log? If not, you should start one. I'd enjoy watching your progress and I'm sure others would too!


I have sorta started one, but since my camera died picture quality is subpar to say the least.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I could have cheated somewhat and just got 90s/60s fittings and adapters etc to just connect straight tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (don't get me wrong, it looks awesome in some builds and when used correctly) but I want to learn the craft without resorting to a crutch


My sentiments exactly. Great mindset!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Stared long and hard and boom the Res mounted lol. . now I need to make a mount for the pump, sleeve the pump cables, and block the 970 Strix









(also need to mod the plate the SSD's are on to allow proper cabling etc)

(Potato Pic







)


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Stared long and hard and boom the Res mounted lol. . now I need to make a mount for the pump, sleeve the pump cables, and block the 970 Strix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (also need to mod the plate the SSD's are on to allow proper cabling etc)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Potato Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Looking awesome, Darth!!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Thought I might show you guys the path of my water-cooling "adventure":


Spoiler: First build/mod




CM Force 500 case, Asus VI Gene Z87, 16GB Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866Mhz, 4770K @ 4,5 Ghz with 1,2 volt, 2x GTX 660 Ti's, EVGA G2 1300W, EK-XTX 240 and EK-XT 120, Corsair SP120 fans, XSPC Dual 5 1/4" bay reservoir with 2x D5's, Tygon tubing and Ek-koolant blood red (if I remember correctly). Was running 5760x1080 at the time.





Spoiler: Second build/mod




Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 (with all acrylic side window), custom PSU-cover (with asphalt-isolation-plate wrapped inside), same hardware as the first build. Only 2x EK-XTX 240s, 2x Alphacool NexXxos Monsta 480s, 3x D5's, two loops with all chrome-plated copper tubing and fittings. No soft-tubing were used on this build. Used Mayhems Aurora Tharsis Red in the CPU-Motherboard-RAM-loop and Mayhems Pastel Ice White in the GPU-loop.





Spoiler: Third build/mod




Pretty much just new hardware in this build, Asus RIVBE, 16GB Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866Mhz, i7-4930K or the i7-3930K, 4x Sapphire Radeon R9 290X with EK water blocks, 2x EVGA G2 1300W, chrome-plated copper tubing, black sleeved cables (it was the dual psu-adapter that was white), Corsair Air 540 (heavily modified, it was weighing about 35-40 kilos), all acrylic "panels", 19 mm vandal switches and 2x MO-RA3 420s. Used distilled water in this build.





Spoiler: Fourth build/mod




And finally the best, LD Cooling PC-V8, same hardware except the GPU's (bought a used MSI Lightning R9 290X instead) and the Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB, acrylic tubing, new radiators and fans. Lots of work on all this builds, I think the first and the last was less work than two and three though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just realized I might want to paint my heatspeaders on the Ripjaw 4's since they don't match anything in the build lo, also side note the 7750 is only in there as a placemaker so I can visualize and measure for my runs. Was debating running Res>Pump>GPU>Rad>Floor Tile>Rad>Res to see if it would help seperate the temps from the Board and GPU blocks even though I know it's said it really doesn't matter the order other the Res>Pump


----------



## kamikazemonkey

I leave here with some (semi) good photos of my build....
Been running perfect for a couple of months!

When I have general good photos of the case I will upload them!



Hope you like it!


----------



## VSG

XSPC posted this on their social media pages:



PETG based on the caption, and a hint about XSPC hardline fittings coming out soon too- compression type but slightly different than what's out there.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> XSPC posted this on their social media pages:
> 
> 
> 
> PETG based on the caption, and a hint about XSPC hardline fittings coming out soon too- compression type but slightly different than what's out there.


Do i feel the walls are a bit thin ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If that's representative of tube clarity then im out...one of my good friends is the UK XSPC rep too,I will no doubt be asked to try it...


----------



## DarthBaggins

yeah def not that clear compared to what's currently on the market already


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If that's representative of tube clarity then im out...one of my good friends is the UK XSPC rep too,I will no doubt be asked to try it...


You could check some out that way, hopefully it will be more clear. That does look like a render.


----------



## VSG

That looks like a render, I wouldn't really put much into it now.


----------



## wermad

maybe not meant for bending, sort of like big-azz crystal links







. Has anyone tried cast hard line? what's its strength when bending compared to extruded?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> maybe not meant for bending, sort of like big-azz crystal links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Has anyone tried cast hard line? what's its strength when bending compared to extruded?


There are certain issues bending cast over extruded.....i will dig up the info.
Cast is normally sheet material iirc.


----------



## Wirerat

I am already at 240mm per block(360rad and 140rad to be exact) . Would another 240mm rad even make a difference in my temps ?

Its a 4790k + gtx 970 both overclocked at 65c cpu 45c gpu.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I am already at 240mm per block(360rad and 140rad to be exact) . Would another 240mm rad even make a difference in my temps ?
> 
> Its a 4790k + gtx 970 both overclocked at 65c cpu 45c gpu.


What pump are you running? I feel like your CPU is running pretty warm for being underwater. Don't get me wrong, that temp is nothing to worry about, especially if it is has a decent OC to it!







I feel like you should be more in the 55 to 60 range with that.


----------



## Hambone07si

Oh boy!! Just got my new water block and back plate today. Can't wait to go home and install it now. This block is one I have always wanted but never was able to get because of no stock or back ordered, but I got it this time for my Titan X. The back plate also came with thermal pads to cool the memory and vrm area on the back of the card which is awesome. That will take care of the hot memory chips that some have said to be very warm. I should have no issues at all running the memory at 7.8 - 8ghz like every review shows on air. The nickel plated back plate is going to look so nice with some LED shine coming off it in my system. Time for a custom bios for 120% power limit and try to get a nice 1400mhz 24/7 gaming overclock. Shouldn't be to much of a problem on water as seeing every single review has all applied +200-220mhz on the core and seeing a max boost of 1456mhz or so. I'll be happy with 1350-1400mhz.

Here's some of the beauty


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I am already at 240mm per block(360rad and 140rad to be exact) . Would another 240mm rad even make a difference in my temps ?
> 
> Its a 4790k + gtx 970 both overclocked at 65c cpu 45c gpu.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What pump are you running? I feel like your CPU is running pretty warm for being underwater. Don't get me wrong, that temp is nothing to worry about, especially if it is has a decent OC to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like you should be more in the 55 to 60 range with that.
Click to expand...

That's typical w/ Haswell/DC. I load in the low 60s @ 4.6 after delid.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What pump are you running? I feel like your CPU is running pretty warm for being underwater. Don't get me wrong, that temp is nothing to worry about, especially if it is has a decent OC to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like you should be more in the 55 to 60 range with that.


mcp35x using the pwm signal from cpu fan. I test it at 4500rpm.

Thats at 1.26v 4.6ghz non delid.
Quote:


> name="wermad" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/83650_50#post_23855151"]
> That's typical w/ Haswell/DC. I load in the low 60s @ 4.6 after delid.


I am not complaining about my temps. I have room to squeeze a 240mm in my case. Im just wondering if it will actually improve or not.

I know If i want significant improvement on the cpu I have to delid.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What pump are you running? I feel like your CPU is running pretty warm for being underwater. Don't get me wrong, that temp is nothing to worry about, especially if it is has a decent OC to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like you should be more in the 55 to 60 range with that.


I7 4790k overclocked even under water 65 is good. They run hot. I run same cpu at 1.3v 4.8 with 2 Gpus on. 360 and 240 rads at 85 (full load intel burn test) and around 69 gaming or editing. Even with one gpu it ran 65 in games and 76 in intel burn test. And for the guys question yes adding a 240 rad would help temps. The more rad space the better. As for thicker or thinner rads you won't see a big difference


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I7 4790k overclocked even under water 65 is good. They run hot. I run same cpu at 1.3v 4.8 with 2 Gpus on. 360 and 240 rads at 85 (full load intel burn test) and around 69 gaming or editing. Even with one gpu it ran 65 in games and 76 in intel burn test. And for the guys question yes adding a 240 rad would help temps. The more rad space the better. As for thicker or thinner rads you won't see a big difference


65c is max in x264 at current oc. Its also the max i see after 3 hours of gaming.

It is about 3-4c hotter than my h110 was during a gaming load. I assume that it is the gpu heat in the loop accounting for that though.


----------



## emsj86

Yea I see around the same temps on x264 or occ. intel burn test always seems to give me more heat. Prime for some reason doesn't seem to work well on the 4790k but worked fine on my fx8350. Everyone has there own preferred one


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I am already at 240mm per block(360rad and 140rad to be exact) . Would another 240mm rad even make a difference in my temps ?
> 
> Its a 4790k + gtx 970 both overclocked at 65c cpu 45c gpu.


What about the Ambients?

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> mcp35x using the pwm signal from cpu fan. I test it at 4500rpm.
> 
> Thats at 1.26v 4.6ghz non delid.
> I am not complaining about my temps. I have room to squeeze a 240mm in my case. Im just wondering if it will actually improve or not.
> 
> I know If i want significant improvement on the cpu I have to delid.


Your 65CPU load is kinda high... but as TCO asked. what is your ambient. and yes if you add one more rad it will help. but not by a huge extent if your ambient temp is high... for example i run 2 X 240mm rads and i've a cpu block and gpu block. ambient some times hits 30C ... once i set my AC to 24 i get huge difference in temps. i turn from 36 idle to 28~29idle. 59 load to 50 load ambient really has a big effect on your water cooling setup.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Your 65CPU load is kinda high... but as TCO asked. what is your ambient. and yes if you add one more rad it will help. but not by a huge extent if your ambient temp is high... for example i run 2 X 240mm rads and i've a cpu block and gpu block. ambient some times hits 30C ... once i set my AC to 24 i get huge difference in temps. i turn from 36 idle to 28~29idle. 59 load to 50 load ambient really has a big effect on your water cooling setup.


So Much This.

20C - 23C I found is the Sweet spot for my system I really found. Great difference in Max Load temps. Max Here would be 65C after gaming for hours

WIth Ambients temperature of 27C my max temps goes to 78C almost 80C. (Sitting next to a sweat box)

The Cautious One


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So Much This.
> 
> 20C - 23C I found is the Sweet spot for my system I really found. Great difference in Max Load temps. Max Here would be 65C after gaming for hours
> 
> WIth Ambients temperature of 27C my max temps goes to 78C almost 80C. (Sitting next to a sweat box)
> 
> The Cautious One


71f in my house. Thats something like 22c. I am in Savannah GA. Gotta have that ac on









So 65c? how much rad space vs wattage in the system?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> 71f in my house. Thats something like 22c. I am in Savannah GA. Gotta have that ac on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So 65c? *how much rad space vs wattage in the system?*


Your asking me Wirerat? Oh Goodness I have no Clue.

The Cautious One

I just put parts together and call them computers


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Your asking me Wirerat? Oh Goodness I have no Clue.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> I just put parts together and call them computers


lol you know how many blocks/rads u have?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> lol you know how many blocks/rads u have?


Oh YEA!! I can answer that one.

I have a 360mm Rad XSPC V3 and an Alphacool 240 UT 60mm, UT 60 is in P/P and the 360mm in Push, 1 x EK Supremacy and 1 x 780 EK Thermosphere block. Single Loop pushed by D5 XSPC Vario Pump



Reference Pic... not My best work here. I added another fan on the UT 60 since this pic... Yea....









The Cautious One


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh YEA!! I can answer that one.
> 
> I have a 360mm Rad XSPC V3 and an Alphacool 240 UT 60mm, UT 60 is in P/P and the 360mm in Push, 1 x EK Supremacy and 1 x 780 EK Thermosphere block. Single Loop pushed by D5 XSPC Vario Pump
> 
> Reference Pic... not My best work here. I added another fan on the UT 60 since this pic... Yea....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


360/360/240 = 120mm x 8
780 = 300w (counting a oc)
4790 with oc 150w

You have roughly 450/8 = 56.5 watts per 120mm rad.

I have roughly 300/4 = 75 watts per 120mm of rad space.

Judging from your 4790k temps and mine both being around 65c. I don't think more rad space is going to do much for me.

Also I am willing to bet running your fans faster doesnt affect cpu temps much if any at all.

Edit : nice rig!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> 360/360/240 = 120mm x 8
> 780 = 300w (counting a oc)
> 4790 with oc 150w
> 
> You have roughly 450/8 = 56.5 watts per 120mm rad.
> 
> I have roughly 300/4 = 75 watts per 120mm of rad space.
> 
> Judging from your 4790k temps and mine both being around 65c. I don't think more rad space is going to do much for me.
> 
> Also I am willing to bet running your fans faster doesnt affect cpu temps much if any at all.
> 
> Edit : nice rig!


Well I am running a 4770k Delidded With 1.280Core V.

The EVGA 780 FTW Is Factory Overclocked. Never passing 1.2V?

I run the Fans at full clock of 1100Rpm (The Sp120) The Front Case Fans are 800Rpm

The Cautious One

(







IDK about a Nice Rig)


----------



## KINGDINGALING84

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n860eHxxJpA

It is entered into the Cooler Master World Series Modding Contest here - http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/12221-build-log-cosmos-2-project-nebula/

Please stick a vote in next week if you think it's worthy of a chance. There are some good builds in this years one.

The full build log is also on the Overclock forum here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1518614/build-log-nebula-cosmos-2-x99-build


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KINGDINGALING84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n860eHxxJpA


OMG, it is full of stars!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KINGDINGALING84*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n860eHxxJpA


Not my taste, but I definitely can appreciate that craftsmanship! Great work!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Not my taste, but I definitely can appreciate that craftsmanship! Great work!


yea thats a lot of airbrush work. I think its airbrush work anyway.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KINGDINGALING84*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n860eHxxJpA
> 
> 
> 
> Not my taste, but I definitely can appreciate that craftsmanship! Great work!
Click to expand...

A lot of Cosmos on the Cosmos indeed!









Not my cup of tea but it still looks nice.









~Ceadder


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KINGDINGALING84*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n860eHxxJpA


Now *THAT* is a slick rig!


----------



## KINGDINGALING84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> OMG, it is full of stars!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Not my taste, but I definitely can appreciate that craftsmanship! Great work!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yea thats a lot of airbrush work. I think its airbrush work anyway.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A lot of Cosmos on the Cosmos indeed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not my cup of tea but it still looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Now *THAT* is a slick rig!


Thanks guys. It is entered into the Cooler Master World Series Modding Contest here - http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/12221-build-log-cosmos-2-project-nebula/

Please stick a vote in next week if you think it's worthy of a chance. There are some good builds in this years one. The full build log is also on this forum here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1518614/build-log-nebula-cosmos-2-x99-build


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> mcp35x using the pwm signal from cpu fan. I test it at 4500rpm.
> 
> Thats at 1.26v 4.6ghz non delid.
> I am not complaining about my temps. I have room to squeeze a 240mm in my case. Im just wondering if it will actually improve or not.
> 
> I know If i want significant improvement on the cpu I have to delid.


Comment was directed to Wolfsbora who is questioning your cpu temps







. A 240 might help but it may not have much of huge drop. Delid that sucka and see temps drop more dramatically. Im Using ice diamond 7 under the ihs and mx3 under the cpu block. You can go the CL route just insulate the exposed resistors with something (silicone or nail polish). If you go with ice diamond, make sure to hold the ihs down when you clamp the socket retention mechanism.


----------



## Hambone07si

So I got my Titan X under water today and couldn't be happier. The EK black acetal / nickel block with nickel back plate looks great! Fired up some Heaven to see some load temps and my god this thing is a beast. Only have the core at 1252mhz right now because I just started to overclock it, but it's showing max Power Limit only hitting 94% right now with no throttling and idle temps are 22c and max load temps after 20min of heaven only hit 34c and this is with ambient temp at 67f (19.5c) .. That's great in my book. I'm so glad I ditched the 780ti's and went for this thing. I will get it clocked up to around 1.5ghz and 8ghz especially since all the memory is cooled and both sides of the VRM's are cooled as well. Time for some fun tonight


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> So I got my Titan X under water today and couldn't be happier. The EK black acetal / nickel block with nickel back plate looks great! Fired up some Heaven to see some load temps and my god this thing is a beast. Only have the core at 1252mhz right now because I just started to overclock it, but it's showing max Power Limit only hitting 94% right now with no throttling and idle temps are 22c and max load temps after 20min of heaven only hit 34c and this is with ambient temp at 67f (19.5c) .. That's great in my book. I'm so glad I ditched the 780ti's and went for this thing. I will get it clocked up to around 1.5ghz and 8ghz especially since all the memory is cooled and both sides of the VRM's are cooled as well. Time for some fun tonight


*fingers in ears* LALALALALA!

I'm trying to be good and tell myself I'll be fine with my SLI 1st Gen Titans for another year.... You're not helping!


----------



## emsj86

Need some professional help. This is for pure looks alone. I've. Een looking at my build and indont have the resources right now to do a fitting build. But I want a cleaner tubing runs / look. I can't seem to figure out a perfect tubing layout. I m so debating adding the 200mm rea (which i have allready) but feel I would have to come out of the cpu than run towards the res than up and over and not surenifntjat would look bad. Suggestions ideas. Just trying to have look cleaner.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> *fingers in ears* LALALALALA!
> 
> I'm trying to be good and tell myself I'll be fine with my SLI 1st Gen Titans for another year.... You're not helping!


Lol. I am helping you. I'm showing you that the Titan X is a great card to have especially on water. It's running games just as fast as my 780ti sli setup and doing with only 400w vs 700w + and now having 12gigs of Vram I don't have to worry about any of my games hitting the 3gig limit of the 780ti's on my Asus Swift 1440p monitor. Time to go blow stuff up in GTA V for a bit







lol


----------



## MakaveliSmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Need some professional help. This is for pure looks alone. I've. Een looking at my build and indont have the resources right now to do a fitting build. But I want a cleaner tubing runs / look. I can't seem to figure out a perfect tubing layout. I m so debating adding the 200mm rea (which i have allready) but feel I would have to come out of the cpu than run towards the res than up and over and not surenifntjat would look bad. Suggestions ideas. Just trying to have look cleaner.


Looks good just like that imo.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Need some professional help. This is for pure looks alone. I've. Een looking at my build and indont have the resources right now to do a fitting build. But I want a cleaner tubing runs / look. I can't seem to figure out a perfect tubing layout. I m so debating adding the 200mm rea (which i have allready) but feel I would have to come out of the cpu than run towards the res than up and over and not surenifntjat would look bad. Suggestions ideas. Just trying to have look cleaner.


I think your rig is fine as it is mate. You keep changing it for months now but honestly this is looking good now. I would start saving to take it to another level in 1 or 2 years build from ground zero (new case) and upgrade parts by that time. Expending your hard won money piecemeal won't get you where you want and it does look sweet as it is. Be happy with it. Just mine







I hope you don't get upset by this since it is meant in a good way.


----------



## emsj86

Nah I understand. It's hard to just stop lol but seriously. I keep telling myself to just save and get a caselabs or another case and that starting from scratch will be easier than trying to fix / redo things in a "small" case where I'm never taking the time to really tear it down which only makes working on it harder. I think your right. Easier said than done to wait. The endless itch of pc building


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Lol. I am helping you. I'm showing you that the Titan X is a great card to have especially on water. It's running games just as fast as my 780ti sli setup and doing with only 400w vs 700w + and now having 12gigs of Vram I don't have to worry about any of my games hitting the 3gig limit of the 780ti's on my Asus Swift 1440p monitor. Time to go blow stuff up in GTA V for a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


One Titan x or two?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> 71f in my house. Thats something like 22c. I am in Savannah GA. Gotta have that ac on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So 65c? how much rad space vs wattage in the system?


I could live without a/c at those temps. Sucks currently down in south Alabama with it breaking over 80F/27C in the house plus the included 60%+ humidity.
Though my 4770K does not run near that hot then again I delid it plus have yet to OC the chip.


----------



## nismoskyline

any feedback is welcome


----------



## wermad

Yes, I don't like the fact we didn't get the r34 in 'Murica (legally and without restrictions).

Thought bout some combs? I've been thinking of some to add to my rig.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yes, *I don't like the fact we didn't get the r34* in 'Murica (legally and without restrictions).


Lol. Kinda weird how we can get a European Super Car that will outrun most anything on wheels, but can't get a Japanese Super Car that can outrun most anything on wheels. No?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

We typically got watered down versions of hot euros. My dream car e39 m5 was one of the first wave of super cars to be almost the same across the markets. It sucks big time you can buy a used m5 for under 10k where here we pay twice. Meh...might just drop a terminator running gear with irs in a late fox lx







.

Ugh, still got air surging the pump


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> We typically got watered down versions of hot euros. My dream car e39 m5 was one of the first wave of super cars to be almost the same across the markets. It sucks big time you can buy a used m5 for under 10k where here we pay twice. Meh...might just drop a terminator running gear with irs in a late fox lx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Bugatti Veyron and Lambos weren't watered down. Neither was Porsche's supercar(Paul Walker RIP) or quite a few Italian jobs either. The problem where you live is Cali has the *strictest* emissions laws in the Contiguous 48.









~Ceadder


----------



## Toan

First time playing around with PETG. Had to send my frozenQ res back to get it repaired cause it leaked real bad at the caps when I put water in it to see if it leaked before I installed it into the loop


----------



## emsj86

seems as if petg is coming very popular


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Bugatti Veyron and Lambos weren't watered down. Neither was Porsche's supercar(Paul Walker RIP) or quite a few Italian jobs either. The problem where you live is Cali has the *strictest* emissions laws in the Contiguous 48.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


E39 was in the late nineties to early 2000s....where have you been?????? You want 4.3 v6s generating 180hp? lets not go back to those dark times. Things got better in the 2000s. Cali carb sucks, but things tend to roll in this direction. And now w/ CAFE coming up and all this global warming stuff...things are gonna change even more. why you think there's no more V10 M5? No more 6.2 lusty amg v8 in the E63.


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> seems as if petg is coming very popular


Seems so. This is my first time bending so I thought that I'd try to use PETG first before I spent a little more on acrylic. I've redone 2 of the runs with the existing tube in the pic I posted cause I wasn't happy with how it looked and it looked pretty good even though I had to reheat and rebend the tube a second time. Not sure how acrylic looks after its been reheated and bent twice.

I honestly wanted to do acrylic first but I chickened out last second while checking out and switched it all to PETG lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> First time playing around with PETG. Had to send my frozenQ res back to get it repaired cause it leaked real bad at the caps when I put water in it to see if it leaked before I installed it into the loop


which sp's are those and what temps are you getting on those hawaiians? Like the floating 90 on the top right


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> which sp's are those and what temps are you getting on those hawaiians? Like the floating 90 on the top right


They are sp120 high performance. I have the voltage reducer on all of them for lower speeds. I haven't finished this build yet so I'm not sure about temps, but before I switched to PETG the temps under water was about 55-60c in BF4 with max settings at 1920x1200 with a resolution scale of 170%. I hope I get a small drop in temps cause before I was on a 240mm and a 120mm rad with push/pull cougar fans, now I've switched to a 480 ut60 and a 480 xt45 with push/pull sp120. Lol that floating 90 actually fit perfect there, originally I wanted a single run from the rad to the pump but my bending tube was WAY to short to reach that far into the tube so I said F it and put a 90 there lol. It gets covered up by the cable management plate that comes with the enthoo primo anyways


----------



## wermad

Looks sweet. I didn't like the hp's even w/ the 7v reducer. I have more now (32 total) and they're hooked up to my mix controller. the controller goes as low as 4.8v and its almost mute. Though, when I'm gaming (quad fire hawaii), I bump them to 7-8v as the system dumps a bunch of heat. If you can't stand them at 7v, I temporarily hardwired my first set (12x) to the 5v output of the molex connector. As I got more, i ended up setting up my trusty old Mix2 controller.

I take it you'll be going w/ "Gigabyte Orange" for the liquid?


----------



## Toan

I don't mind fan noise as I play with a headset and usually the sound blasting anyways. But I was going to do distilled water with some mayhems orange dye, I don't know if thats the "gigabyte" orange you're speaking of. I was also thinking of going with a pastel liquid but I haven't made my final decision yet on what I want to do with liquid.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> First time playing around with PETG. Had to send my frozenQ res back to get it repaired cause it leaked real bad at the caps when I put water in it to see if it leaked before I installed it into the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Uhm... You have your GPU connection wrong. You need to move either the top or bottom fitting to the other port.

Otherwise, looking good! ?


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Uhm... You have your GPU connection wrong. You need to move either the top or bottom fitting to the other port.
> 
> Otherwise, looking good! ?


I switched it to serial, so that one small tube between the two is gone.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> I switched it to serial, so that one small tube between the two is gone.


Well, NVM then. Looks good ?


----------



## Toan

Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Bugatti Veyron and Lambos weren't watered down. Neither was Porsche's supercar(Paul Walker RIP) or quite a few Italian jobs either. The problem where you live is Cali has the *strictest* emissions laws in the Contiguous 48.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E39 was in the late nineties to early 2000s....where have you been?????? You want 4.3 v6s generating 180hp? lets not go back to those dark times. Things got better in the 2000s. Cali carb sucks, but things tend to roll in this direction. And now w/ CAFE coming up and all this global warming stuff...things are gonna change even more. why you think there's no more V10 M5? No more 6.2 lusty amg v8 in the E63.
Click to expand...

I know when e39 was out werm. It is indeed this madness to go "green" that is costing us dearly and flushing some very good cars down the proverbial toilet. I was just pointing out that we still have some solid European wheels on the roads. While the better Japanese imports are being hedged out. Things are just stupid crazy, to the point where people believe a lie because the little dictator in office knows that nobody can prove it because it's all propped up with 20 years of lies.

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Large bore engines are unsustainable fuel wise,ditching them is good.
Interesting side note,that 6.2 AMG isn't actually a 6.2....they called it that for 'historical' reasons...

I,along with most European petrolheads,am still amazed on how little power American manufacturers get from their engines,particularly the bigger engines. Its like they are deliberately hobbling them.

For me,its all about small capacity with forced induction.


----------



## wermad

@ceadder

No Sylvia, but truck engine 240sx. We got a weak sauce e36 m3. Importing got big in the 90s. And no godzilla. But things finally got good in the 2000s. Wrx, sti, evo (rip), etc. Si, true gti, and so on. The US was no longer the lame duck for imports and just land of the v8s after the turn of the millennium. The 90s (and 80s as well) was great for music and other stuff but import super cars was not great. Thats my point







.

Alright, on topic....no luck in first attempt to convince the boss for cl







. Might just keep the x9 till next tax season

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Large bore engines are unsustainable fuel wise,ditching them is good.
> Interesting side note,that 6.2 AMG isn't actually a 6.2....they called it that for 'historical' reasons...
> 
> I,along with most European petrolheads,am still amazed on how little power American manufacturers get from their engines,particularly the bigger engines. Its like they are deliberately hobbling them.
> 
> For me,its all about small capacity with forced induction.


Hmmm thought that was e63 was the name and 6,2 was the size, ? I love me some subie burbble in a wagon


----------



## Domiro

I knew of the 6.3L connection but I've been told German law dictates the cc to be rounded upwards. And if I'm not mistaken the 6208cc variants are to be replaced by engines with less displacement but forced induction.


----------



## wermad

Turbo v8s 5.5 I think in the newest amg 63 cars. BMW went to turbo v8 from the v10 in the m5s.

Yeah, the 63 harks to mb/am past as well


----------



## Domiro

Bit strange though. From 5.5 V8 to a 6.3 and back to 5.5 again.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Large bore engines are unsustainable fuel wise,ditching them is good.
> Interesting side note,that 6.2 AMG isn't actually a 6.2....they called it that for 'historical' reasons...
> 
> I,along with most European petrolheads,am still amazed on how little power American manufacturers get from their engines,particularly the bigger engines. Its like they are deliberately hobbling them.
> 
> *For me,its all about small capacity with forced induction*.




i was gonna go with the v8 coyote engine mustang but decided screw it im gonna try something new and ended up with the 4 cylinder turbo, stock turbo is small...the one you see here on the ecoboost....welll....yeah...its gotten a little bigger.

also...anyone see the 2017-2020 gtr concept car? makes me sick.


----------



## Ceadderman

Alot of the horses lost aren't in the motor, they are in the chip that the manufacturers install in the computer prior to shipping. There is nothing wrong mechanically with US motors. It's all about economical performance. Which sucks but until people stop buying the snake oil the Libbers will still peddle it.









~Ceadder


----------



## guitarhero23

Ummm....i think i came to the wrong thread! Im in the OCN Car club









Got a quick question: how easy is it to replace an Oring on a fotting specifically a c47 and does it take the same or smaller than what comes over the g1/4. Is it the same as what say goes in the multi link enhanced


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It is indeed this madness to go "green" that is costing us dearly


Well said, i learned as car electrical technician and i was shocked how much stuff is in the car which has only one job, keep the emission down(and these ones the most expensive as far as i know). Even my 50 ccm 2T scooter had catalyzer in the exhaust







. I replaced it after the warranty expired(sport exhaust forever)







.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Got the bends down but I assume I'm heating too much length hence the kink just above the blue tape


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Large bore engines are unsustainable fuel wise,ditching them is good.
> Interesting side note,that 6.2 AMG isn't actually a 6.2....they called it that for 'historical' reasons...
> 
> I,along with most European petrolheads,am still amazed on how little power American manufacturers get from their engines,particularly the bigger engines. Its like they are deliberately hobbling them.
> 
> *For me,its all about small capacity with forced induction*.


Maybe I should have been a paleontologist . . . . . But I'll keep my dinosaur thank you . .













But on topic, _it is water cooled_ and runs real braided stainless lines.

D.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bends down but I assume I'm heating too much length hence the kink just above the blue tape


If you can keep your heat-gun somewhere around 230-240C it is good, it will give you the perfect amount of time of bending it the way you want.
Also, heat the spot where you are going to bend the tubing 95% of the time and 5% on the tube on each side of the bend, I got good results doing this. Start to bend when it has been sagging for 10-15 seconds, bend slowly (feel the tubing being bent) and you are on the right tracks.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If you can keep your heat-gun somewhere around 230-240C it is good, it will give you the perfect amount of time of bending it the way you want.
> Also, heat the spot where you are going to bend the tubing 95% of the time and 5% on the tube on each side of the bend, I got good results doing this. Start to bend when it has been sagging for 10-15 seconds, bend slowly (feel the tubing being bent) and you are on the right tracks.


Wooncha know it, I open my mouth and the kinks are back


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Maybe I should have been a paleontologist . . . . . But I'll keep my dinosaur thank you . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But on topic, _it is water cooled_ and runs real braided stainless lines.
> 
> D.


There's no replacement for displacement


----------



## szeged

i used to say that until i had a twin turbo supra monster spool up on me and take off into the sunset lol.


----------



## Wolfsbora

The downside with a (twin)turbo is that you have to wait for the spool up, the upside is that once it is spooled up you launch like a rocket.


----------



## szeged

yeah the turbo lag on the bigger turbos is nuts but once you hear that whistle its game over most of the time.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah the turbo lag on the bigger turbos is nuts *but once you hear that whistle its game over most of the time*.


That's the truth! Nothing like putting some fear into the guy next to you when that turbo screams.


----------



## jagdtigger

I think this sound alone would be enough without the screaming







(at 3:30):



If i had enough money i would buy one of these for sure...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ummm....i think i came to the wrong thread! Im in the OCN Car club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a quick question: how easy is it to replace an Oring on a fotting specifically a c47 and does it take the same or smaller than what comes over the g1/4. Is it the same as what say goes in the multi link enhanced


The multilink orings are different size than the g1/4. The same ones are used in C47's and the advanced versions. They come in packs of 10 and are quite easy to replace with tweezers or a pin.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i used to say that until i had a twin turbo supra monster spool up on me and take off into the sunset lol.


But oh lord the note of a large capacity V8 is pure eargasm


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> But oh lord the note of a large capacity V8 is pure eargasm


oh i know, i have a 5.7 v8 sitting in my drive way lol.


----------



## p5ych00n5

AMG and Audi as well as BMW really know how to make a V8 sing







, honourable mentions to Maserati and late model Astons


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> AMG and Audi as well as BMW really know how to make a V8 sing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , honourable mentions to Maserati and late model Astons


I agree, but if you've ever heard a big block Mustang with Flow Masters exhaust, that just sings to me.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I agree, but if you've ever heard a big block Mustang with Flow Masters exhaust, that just sings to me.


5.0 mustang with flowmaster outlaws or magnaflows are a song from the gods themselves.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I agree, but if you've ever heard a big block Mustang with Flow Masters exhaust, that just sings to me.


Ol' Skool V8s are in a league of their own, they just scream especially Ratrods, exhaust overrun with lumpy cams giggidy


----------



## Jakusonfire

C'mon guys, this is the most boring of ot, and it's dragging on.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> C'mon guys, this is the most boring of ot, and it's dragging on.


Silence, heretic!


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The downside with a (twin)turbo is that you have to wait for the spool up, the upside is that once it is spooled up you launch like a rocket.


Nothing a little brake boosting wont fix. Its like launching your car at 60 mph.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> C'mon guys, this is the most boring of ot, and it's dragging on.


I seem to be getting more consistent bend radii using the 180 degree mandrel vs the 90 degree mandrel







and the most annoying thing is some ports are 1 - 2 mm out of being symmetrical


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Nothing a little brake boosting wont fix. Its like launching your car at 60 mph.


Really good point!! I used to do that with my tuned out Jetta. It's probably why the engine blew on me haha.

On topic: One of the 15mm thick Phobya fans on my rad up top is on its way out. Anyone have any suggestions for a better static pressure fan that is 22mm thick or less? The backstory is that Corsair's 550D does not allow more than 27mm clearance for a rad up top so I had to go with a thin fan and got a steal of a deal on those Phobyas (I really didn't want to go with them but didn't have another choice at the time).


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 5.0 mustang with flowmaster outlaws or magnaflows are a song from the gods themselves.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The downside with a (twin)turbo is that you have to wait for the spool up, the upside is that once it is spooled up you launch like a rocket.


Unless you have a small vane turbo and a large vane turbo..or Porsche variable vane turbo.

Or Lancia's volumex system.....

Turbo charging has come a _long_ way.

Just to show....my favorite car ever made (RS200,inline 4,single turbo.) v Lambo Gallardo V10.




That was a 1.8 model,there are Evo versions with a 2.1 that can hit 850 brake.

Accept no substitutes.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Unless you have a small vane turbo and a large vane turbo..or Porsche variable vane turbo.
> 
> Or Lancia's volumex system.....
> 
> Turbo charging has come a _long_ way.
> 
> Just to show....my favorite car ever made (RS200,inline 4,single turbo.) v Lambo Gallardo V10.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was a 1.8 model,there are Evo versions with a 2.1 that can hit 850 brake.
> 
> Accept no substitutes.


Wow, it put it put that Ferrari to shame!!! You are right, turbo lag is not nearly as bad as it was in the past.


----------



## szeged

the stock turbos on the new ford ecoboosts have 0 lag on them, all the power is up front. downside is after about 5000 rpm they fall flat on their face.

good thing tunes / aftermarket turbos exist lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Unless you have a small vane turbo and a large vane turbo..or Porsche variable vane turbo.
> 
> Or Lancia's volumex system.....
> 
> Turbo charging has come a _long_ way.
> 
> Just to show....my favorite car ever made (RS200,inline 4,single turbo.) v Lambo Gallardo V10.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was a 1.8 model,there are Evo versions with a 2.1 that can hit 850 brake.
> 
> Accept no substitutes.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, it put it put that Ferrari to shame!!! You are right, turbo lag is not nearly as bad as it was in the past.
Click to expand...

That car is from the past....

1986 to be precise.

And I Love it more than anything except Magoo.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That car is from the past....
> 
> 1986 to be precise.
> 
> And I Love it more than anything except Magoo.


Magoo is pretty special. I especially liked Magoo's photo shoot with the acrylic walkthrough.


----------



## Ramzinho




----------



## Wolfsbora

Haha, you're just jealous that you don't have Magoo strapped into a big turbo car with you, @Ramzinho


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Haha, you're just jealous that you don't have Magoo strapped into a big turbo car with you, @Ramzinho


How did u know that







lol i just didn't want to show it


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> How did u know that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol i just didn't want to show it


Because in your avatar you are looking for your own Magoo and fast car. It is quite clear to all of us.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*


Technically, it's on topic. It is water cooling afterall.


----------



## kl6mk6

Can you all please start a thread for all that car talk. I'm subscribed to this thread for WATERCOOLING.

Edit: sorry bout the language.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Can you all please start a thread for all that car talk. I'm subscribed to this thread for WATERCOOLING.


Dont let the door hit you on the way out potty mouth.

I put up with pages of rants about Vendors,Sleeving and all the other crap,you can put up with a page or 2 about cars.


----------



## Toan

They make an unsuscribe button for a reason. Just saying.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont let the door hit you on the way out potty mouth.
> 
> I put up with pages of rants about Vendors,Sleeving and all the other crap,you can put up with a page or 2 about cars.


people who liked or favorited this post

szeged


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> people who liked or favorited this post
> 
> szeged
> Wolfsbora


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> people who liked or favorited this post
> 
> szeged
> Wolfsbora
> MadHatter5045


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont let the door hit you on the way out potty mouth.
> 
> I put up with pages of rants about Vendors,Sleeving and all the other crap,you can put up with a page or 2 about cars.


You guys are right. I shouldn't have gotten upset. Real world problems have me on a short fuse. I apologize for any insult. I edited the language out of my original post and I want you all to know I respect the opinions and advise of the OCN community.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Off topic in here is fine...as long as Bnegative approves. If not, he'll be the first to complain about it...


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> You guys are right. I shouldn't have gotten upset. Real world problems have me on a short fuse. I apologize for any insult. I edited the language out of my original post and I want you all to know I respect the opinions and advise of the OCN community.


Manhug.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> people who liked or favorited this post
> 
> szeged
> Wolfsbora
> MadHatter5045
> Ramzinho


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont let the door hit you on the way out potty mouth.
> 
> I put up with pages of rants about Vendors,Sleeving and all the other crap,you can put up with a page or 2 about cars.
> 
> 
> 
> You guys are right. I shouldn't have gotten upset. Real world problems have me on a short fuse. I apologize for any insult. I edited the language out of my original post and I want you all to know I respect the opinions and advise of the OCN community.
Click to expand...

Its not a problem,this is very club orientated so the topic does drift a little,bear with it as you will learn stuff about members outside of PC's. I mean,who knew Darlene liked big throbbing....engines.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Off topic in here is fine...as long as Bnegative approves. If not, he'll be the first to complain about it...


Yup.

I dont want it too formal in here,this is a club after all.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by szeged View Post
> 
> people who liked or favorited this post
> 
> szeged
> Wolfsbora
> MadHatter5045
> Ramzinho
> The Cautious ONe


----------



## Wolfsbora

In one year of being a member here I have learned more about PCs and watercooling from this thread than I ever have elsewhere. What makes it even more special is exactly what B Neg said, learning about other member's other interests and backgrounds as we all share at least one common interest in this thread. Discussions, healthy arguments, critiques, feedback, and off topic. It all happens here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> In one year of being a member here I have learned more about PCs and watercooling from this thread than I ever have elsewhere. What makes it even more special is exactly what B Neg said, learning about other member's other interests and backgrounds as we all share at least one common interest in this thread. *Discussions, healthy arguments, critiques, feedback, and off topic. It all happens here*.


I've been drinking Coffee all morning so I can't Cry.. Thank you Wolfsbora.









The Cautious ONe


----------



## emsj86

As long as we don't talk about alphacool rads being good or bad again..........


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> In one year of being a member here I have learned more about PCs and watercooling from this thread than I ever have elsewhere. What makes it even more special is exactly what B Neg said, learning about other member's other interests and backgrounds as we all share at least one common interest in this thread. Discussions, healthy arguments, critiques, feedback, and off topic. It all happens here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I've been drinking Coffee all morning so I can't Cry.. Thank you Wolfsbora.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious ONe


this guy needs a Hug


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> this guy needs a Hug


Off Topic Anyone.. I embrace these Hugs!!!








(small Tear)









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> As long as we don't talk about alphacool rads being good or bad again..........


Dont say it...the Alphacool Defence Force will come out again.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont say it...the Alphacool Defence Force will come out again.


B Neg ( Motioning to Cover Over) Please join the Hugging..







It's for the Children...

The Cautious ONe


----------



## szeged

alphacool rads so good i use them for intercooling on my quad turbo fiesta st.

make sure to flush them a trillion times before use though.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Haha, this conversation proves exactly what I said. Let's all huddle around Magoo as he says one of his heartwarming speeches and then we can all cry and hug together.


----------



## taowulf

This thread is magic.


----------



## Ramzinho

I feel kinda proud starting this off topic thing







.. turned out way better than i expected


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> This thread is magic.


For real...







. how many unique people talk here? . look back like 50 pages. not more than 50 frequent users. heck they might be less than 20







.. still so much fun to tease and talk to you guys.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I feel kinda proud starting this off topic thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. turned out way better than i expected


You knew exactly what you were doing when you posted that! You knew tears would flow, hugs would be had, and babies would sleep when you did that.


----------



## Toan

Back to off topic...imagine brake boosting with a pte 6766 top mounted turbo. My last setup in my evo 8 before i sold her.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You knew exactly what you were doing when you posted that! You knew tears would flow, hugs would be had, and babies would sleep when you did that.


No i just suck at car mechanics


----------



## catbuster

Nah many ppl read this thread, they just ignore offtopic


----------



## p5ych00n5

I'm one angry little ant, my pipebending skills are atrocious, at first my bends were absolute rubbish, I master the bends then all of a sudden I get flanges, I master the flanges then I get kinks in the internals of the bends, I master the kinks........ you get the idea.

This will explain it better than I can


----------



## Toan

Are you bending with jigs or hand bending?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I'm one angry little ant, my pipebending skills are atrocious, at first my bends were absolute rubbish, I master the bends then all of a sudden I get flanges, I master the flanges then I get kinks in the internals of the bends, I master the kinks........ you get the idea.
> 
> This will explain it better than I can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


man you are off topic


----------



## Alex132

Clean your room yo


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I'm one angry little ant, my pipebending skills are atrocious, at first my bends were absolute rubbish, I master the bends then all of a sudden I get flanges, I master the flanges then I get kinks in the internals of the bends, I master the kinks........ you get the idea.
> 
> This will explain it better than I can
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm impressed with your patience.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm impressed with your patience.


Same here. That is literally the best thing you can have with acrylic/PETG (to be clear, I'm an acrylic guy).


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> (to be clear, I'm an acrylic guy).


No pun intended?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm impressed with your patience.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Same here. That is literally the best thing you can have with acrylic/PETG (to be clear, I'm an acrylic guy).


I've just gone through 2 tubes and its 2am


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> No pun intended?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> No pun intended?


Had to give you rep for catching that.


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Same here. That is literally the best thing you can have with acrylic/PETG (to be clear, I'm an acrylic guy).


Thats why i bought like 3 12-packs of 36" tubes lol


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Thats why i bought like 3 12-packs of 36" tubes lol


Yeah! I bought 4 - 6' tubes from McMasters-Carr. I just about went through all of it too...


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Thats why i bought like 3 12-packs of 36" tubes lol


Damn, you cooling a reactor?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Had to give you rep for catching that.


With all the crap I have missed lately, it is nice to get some recognition.









Months of not sleeping well does not treat the mind well.


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Damn, you cooling a reactor?


Lol no I just wanted to be ready for any mistakes. Took me like 2 tubes alone to do one of my cpu runs. I was getting so frustrated I had to take a break to clear my head lol.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> With all the crap I have missed lately, it is nice to get some recognition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Months of not sleeping well does not treat the mind well.


I know that feeling. 2.5 years of not sleeping well for this guy. It certainly has taken a toll. Hang in there, man.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Are you bending with jigs or hand bending?


I have the Monsoon Mandrel kit, It's driving me absolutely nuts


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Clean your room yo


Eeeeerrrrrrhyhhhhh, you wouldn't want to see the the other 3/4 of the room


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I have the Monsoon Mandrel kit, It's driving me absolutely nuts


I found that rotating the tubing around the mandrel, before heating, where the tick marks start and end, then marking it with a soft pencil, finally only trying to heat it between the marks. Make sure you don't over heat the tubing and ensure the insert is further in than the area you are heating.

The mandrels worked great for me.

Edit....I didnt care for the insert that came with the kit. It was too small IMO, I ordered a Primo chill insert and it worked better for me.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I know that feeling. 2.5 years of not sleeping well for this guy. It certainly has taken a toll. Hang in there, man.


It is slowly getting better, and I am hanging in there like a mofo.


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I have the Monsoon Mandrel kit, It's driving me absolutely nuts


I have the kit also but i stopped using it and found it was much easier and cleaner doing it all by hand.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I found that rotating the tubing around the mandrel, before heating, where the tick marks start and end, then marking it with a soft pencil, finally only trying to heat it between the marks. Make sure you don't over heat the tubing and ensure the insert is further in than the area you are heating.
> 
> The mandrels worked great for me.
> 
> Edit....I didnt care for the insert that came with the kit. It was too small IMO, I ordered a Primo chill insert and it worked better for me.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> I have the kit also but i stopped using it and found it was much easier and cleaner doing it all by hand.


I don't think I could have accomplished some of my bends without it.Especially that far left one.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I don't think I could have accomplished some of my bends without it.Especially that far left one.


That is some nice work! I'm a mandrel believer too. Whether homemade or with a kit.


----------



## Toan

That looks good. No doubt it helped with that complicated of a bend. Luckily my bends were more or less straight with 1 or 2 90 bends. I used the rulers that came with the kit more than the actual mandrels.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> That looks good. No doubt it helped with that complicated of a bend. Luckily my bends were more or less straight with 1 or 2 90 bends. I used the rulers that came with the kit more than the actual mandrels.


The rulers are great and inexpensive.


----------



## corysti

Hey guys do you think white and yellow would be a good build color? I don't see a lot of yellow in an all white build.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Hey guys do you think white and yellow would be a good build color? I don't see a lot of yellow in an all white build.


If the foundation of the build is white and yellow is incorporated here or there I think it could work. The yellow would need to be more of an accent color than anything though. Just my opinion.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Hey guys do you think white and yellow would be a good build color? I don't see a lot of yellow in an all white build.


If the Build was white and you had a yellow... Pastel as coolant.. Yes... Dominate color yellow... No..

TCO


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> If the foundation of the build is white and yellow is incorporated here or there I think it could work. The yellow would need to be more of an accent color than anything though. Just my opinion.


My thoughts exactly, use the yellow as an accent


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> I have the kit also but i stopped using it and found it was much easier and cleaner doing it all by hand.


What size mandrels...I wish I had found you earlier if it's 12/10mm since you live a town over from me. Would have come in handy....


----------



## Dzuks

What's the best tubing ID size for acrylic bending; 12,13, or 16mm?


----------



## wermad

I would think you want a 1mm thick wall????


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> What's the best tubing ID size for acrylic bending; 12,13, or 16?


The smaller the tubing is the easier it will fit. Otherwise, I don't know that one is better than the other. I think it is all subjective to what you are doing.


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What size mandrels...I wish I had found you earlier if it's 12/10mm since you live a town over from me. Would have come in handy....


Lol 3/8 x 1/2 its the blue kit, the smaller of the 2 monsoon offers. pm me if you still need it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> What's the best tubing ID size for acrylic bending; 12,13, or 16mm?


i use 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD PETG.



I'm going to redo the routing from pump-CPU-top rad for a cleaner look by using 90 degree fittings. I recently purchased a Titan X and waterblock, so that long piece of tubing is going out.


----------



## Gabrielzm

came to the thread after a night of somewhat trouble rest (baby girl with cold and a little fever) to find more than 100 posts happen in less than 8 hours....I thought, WTH some new awesome block that cover the whole PC...nah. Nanoradiator, micropump and tubes for cooling cell phones? nah...A new coolant with awesome color and amazing properties ...nah... A new silence performance pump king the size of a ddc, 25 head feet and 50% noise of a d5? nah... I have good fun, several puns and teasing remarks that made my day


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> came to the thread after a night of somewhat trouble rest (baby girl with cold and a little fever) to find more than 100 posts happen in less than 8 hours....I thought, WTH some new awesome block that cover the whole PC...nah. Nanoradiator, micropump and tubes for cooling cell phones? nah...A new coolant with awesome color and amazing properties ...nah... A new silence performance pump king the size of a ddc, 25 head feet and 50% noise of a d5? nah... I have good fun, several puns and teasing remarks that made my day


Can We have a Hug Gabe? We are glad your baby girl is Well!










The Cautious One


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Lol 1/2 by 3/8 its the blue kit, the smaller of the 2 monsoon offers. pm me if you still need it.


LOL. I'll remember you for when/if I need to bend again, just finished up the other day


----------



## wermad

Son got sick after a play date and after a sleepless night ( no ocn) just woke up to find the off topic was carrying on







.

Need to check my loop as the surging air pockets in the pump are becoming more frequent.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Son got sick after a play date and after a sleepless night ( no ocn) just woke up to find the off topic was carrying on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> *Need to check my loop as the surging air pockets in the pump* are becoming more frequent.


Do you think that would be due to a leak in the loop? (Pulling air in while trying to pump fluid due to pressure) ?

The Cautious ONe


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Hey guys do you think white and yellow would be a good build color? I don't see a lot of yellow in an all white build.


While not bad in concept, yellow is a poor contrast to white. Like others have mentioned, it would be OK as a accent, but think of adding a third, darker color to make the yellow and white pop out.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Do you think that would be due to a leak in the loop? (Pulling air in while trying to pump fluid due to pressure) ?
> 
> The Cautious ONe


No leaks, just the air still in the system.


----------



## Gabrielzm

thks TCO. She is fine, a bit cranky, lost appetite and want to go to the birthday party of her best 3 year old friend. I bet her appetite will get back very fast in the party....









Here we go folks. Putting the iwata neo airbrush to good use:



and here you can compare to the other one painted with a can in a more gunmetal/graphite color. The gunmetal was painted using can the grey one was painted with the airbrush.




The fan frame in gunmetal was just a test and it is not finished. it is amazing the difference in finish. On the last picture keep clicking on imgur to zoom in and you will see what I mean. Rads are been prepared for "grey matter".


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The smaller the tubing is the easier it will fit. Otherwise, I don't know that one is better than the other. I think it is all subjective to what you are doing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> i use 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD PETG.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to redo the routing from pump-CPU-top rad for a cleaner look by using 90 degree fittings. I recently purchased a Titan X and waterblock, so that long piece of tubing is going out.


Thanks a bunch guys. That was helpful!


----------



## taowulf

Impressive differences between the painting techniques. That rattle can finish just doesn't cut it when you compare them side by side.

Looks like an airbrush will need to go on my shopping list.


----------



## Wolfsbora

@Gabrielzm & @B NEGATIVE, how does this airbrush look? NEO CN Gravity Feed Dual Action Airbrush

What else will I need for one of these guys?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No leaks, just the air still in the system.


Got ya.. Figured as much, Just asking to see if that would have been an option. Possibly the Size of the Monsta's... Lotta space for air in those









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @Gabrielzm & @B NEGATIVE, how does this airbrush look? NEO CN Gravity Feed Dual Action Airbrush
> 
> What else will I need for one of these guys?


that is the one I got. I also got the neo compressor. I got all as a kit from ibuywargames in UK. The video give you an idea of the size.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAuGKzROj8k

http://ibuywargames.co.uk/epages/950002401.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950002401/Products/1074

amazon and several others in US carry the kit. I already said thks to B neg for the tip


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Got ya.. Figured as much, Just asking to see if that would have been an option. Possibly the Size of the Monsta's... Lotta space for air in those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yeah, my system does have a lot of volume and air was already trapped there. Redoing things to add the 4th monstas and a new reservoir is just a bit more challenging. It's to the point where rocking the heavy bastard doesn't help amymore. My res is getting low so a top off is in order soon or I'll be making the issue worse. I prefer a large res but with limited space, a shallow bay res was in order. I won't have to lime to fiddle with it today but I may be able to top it off at least tonight.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> that is the one I got. I also got the neo compressor. I got all as a kit from ibuywargames in UK. The video give you an idea of the size.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAuGKzROj8k
> 
> http://ibuywargames.co.uk/epages/950002401.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950002401/Products/1074
> 
> amazon and several others in US carry the kit. I already said thks to B neg for the tip


Ohh yeah, I remember you guys pointing that out to me before. I would have had to pay over $100 in shipping! Haha Great suggestion. I need to see where I can find the shipping for a lot cheaper.

Edit: I can't find that exact kit but I found the compressor for $100 on Amazon and the airbrush for $53. What else will I need? I can take these questions to PM if needed. Just keep in mind that I'm planning on painting watercool components.







Woo! Keeping on topic FTW!!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Ohh yeah, I remember you guys pointing that out to me before. I would have had to pay over $100 in shipping! Haha Great suggestion. I need to see where I can find the shipping for a lot cheaper.


amazon have it mate. I didn't pay the shipping since I friend of mine was coming from UK and brought to me so was a very good deal for me. taowulf it is impressive the difference in texture isn't?


----------



## nismoskyline

Working on a rendition of my 800d










missed all the car talk, but i remember reading about the 5.5/6.2 ltr mercedes...
here is my 5.5 amg


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> amazon have it mate. I didn't pay the shipping since I friend of mine was coming from UK and brought to me so was a very good deal for me. taowulf it is impressive the difference in texture isn't?


I cannot find the kit on Amazon for the life of me. I found one with a different compressor and a lot more money. I


----------



## Kritikill

While we are on the subject. Could one just buy a regulator and filter to attach to a tank type garage compressorinstead of buying a airbrush compressor?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> While we are on the subject. Could one just buy a regulator and filter to attach to a tank type garage compressorinstead of buying a airbrush compressor?


I have seen that on YouTube. Great question. Anyone have experience with that type of setup?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I have seen that on YouTube. Great question. Anyone have experience with that type of setup?


http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Neo-Air-miniature-compressor/dp/B00DV4PTCQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430510948&sr=8-1&keywords=iwata+neo+compressor

http://www.amazon.com/NEO-Gravity-Feed-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1430510981&sr=8-3&keywords=iwata+neo+compressor

for some reasons the kit disappear from amazon, but the two above it is all you need.

I think that would work just fine but I don't have experience with garage bulkier types of compressor. Perhaps a filter with pressure regulator on it would do the tricky.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thks TCO. She is fine, a bit cranky, lost appetite and want to go to the birthday party of her best 3 year old friend. I bet her appetite will get back very fast in the party....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we go folks. Putting the iwata neo airbrush to good use:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here you can compare to the other one painted with a can in a more gunmetal/graphite color. The gunmetal was painted using can the grey one was painted with the airbrush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fan frame in gunmetal was just a test and it is not finished. it is amazing the difference in finish. On the last picture keep clicking on imgur to zoom in and you will see what I mean. Rads are been prepared for "grey matter".


Told you it was a good airbrush.

Nice and easy to clean with a great pattern.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I cannot find the kit on Amazon for the life of me. I found one with a different compressor and a lot more money. I


Neo Compressor on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Neo-Air-miniature-compressor/dp/B00DV4PTCQ/ref=pd_sim_t_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D8YNBTZQ9J967SH2VT2

I also found this compressor, about $30 cheaper, no idea on what brands are good though.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=WIGYXTCZI9QY&coliid=I1Z9C4VN7A4UF7


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Neo-Air-miniature-compressor/dp/B00DV4PTCQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430510948&sr=8-1&keywords=iwata+neo+compressor
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/NEO-Gravity-Feed-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1430510981&sr=8-3&keywords=iwata+neo+compressor
> 
> for some reasons the kit disappear from amazon, but the two above it is all you need.
> 
> I think that would work just fine but I don't have experience with garage bulkier types of compressor. Perhaps a filter with pressure regulator on it would do the tricky.


Awesome, that's what I found earlier. So you approve of these items?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Told you it was a good airbrush.
> 
> Nice and easy to clean with a great pattern.


Don't let me down, B Neg!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Neo Compressor on Amazon
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Neo-Air-miniature-compressor/dp/B00DV4PTCQ/ref=pd_sim_t_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D8YNBTZQ9J967SH2VT2
> 
> I also found this compressor, about $30 cheaper, no idea on what brands are good though.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=WIGYXTCZI9QY&coliid=I1Z9C4VN7A4UF7


Thanks!

+1 to all of you guys! Will I need any additional accessories?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Working on a rendition of my 800d
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> missed all the car talk, but i remember reading about the 5.5/6.2 ltr mercedes...
> here is my 5.5 amg
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


X58...brings back sweet memories.. jumped from 890fx Amd to r3e and it was awesome









CLS







. If m5 e39 doesn't come, w211 e63 estate or w212 e63 estate pre facelift. I don't get why w212 was short lived before an unnecessary facelift







.


----------



## emsj86

Your car pics makes me feel poor







with my 2004 vw passat which I don't drive. The wife adopted it. I just drive the work van


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Working on a rendition of my 800d
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> missed all the car talk, but i remember reading about the 5.5/6.2 ltr mercedes...
> here is my 5.5 amg
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excuse my ignorance, but what is that putty around the cpu cooling block?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> I think this sound alone would be enough without the screaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (at 3:30):
> 
> 
> 
> If i had enough money i would buy one of these for sure...


I'll stick with the sound of a Scoob boosted flat4(boxer)

Uh yeah that looks like a load of paste around the socket


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A few things...

Vulture front panel is done and drying.....



Rads for IDORU are done,GPU blocks have had their base coats,candy coat and brushed copper inlays done,only the folded copper pieces and backplates to do! Paint is Black metallic and royal blue candy finished with copper flake.
I didnt want to go mad with the flake as the blue still needs to shine thru.


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If the Build was white and you had a yellow... Pastel as coolant.. Yes... Dominate color yellow... No..
> 
> TCO


Plan was to put three akasa viper fans up front then have some sleeving that was mostly white with yellow as the accent and also have yellow pastel coolant.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Excuse my ignorance, but what is that putty around the cpu cooling block?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Uh yeah that looks like a load of paste around the socket


I'm pretty sure its kneaded eraser to insulate the socket for extreme cooling, like phase change of LN2.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I'm pretty sure its kneaded eraser to *insulate* the socket for extreme cooling, like phase change of LN2.


This.


----------



## Wolfsbora

First, B Neg, dude. You've gone too far. Any other paint I see from here on out can't compete with that. You've ruined all other paint work I'll ever see with your perfectly gold flaked, amazing blue paint...and that blood red. It literally looks like liquid...









Second, you and a few others inspired me to go ahead and pull the trigger on the airbrush and compressor. I'll see the airbrush early next week and the compressor shortly thereafter.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> First, B Neg, dude. You've gone too far. Any other paint I see from here on out can't compete with that. You've ruined all other paint work I'll ever see with your perfectly gold flaked, amazing blue paint...and that blood red. It literally looks like liquid...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second, you and a few others inspired me to go ahead and pull the trigger on the airbrush and compressor. I'll see the airbrush early next week and the compressor shortly thereafter.


that's why when there is MOTM build i think it's unfair to include B neg, James, Snef in them.. they have their own league of work.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> that's why when there is MOTM build i think it's unfair to include B neg, James, Snef in them.. they have their own league of work.


Their stuff is just epic. B Neg's skill has literally blown through the roof over the past year. James has become well known all over the place, and snef is just a beast with color coordination.


----------



## VSG

Got a big package from Slovenia this week which had a few things for testing and otherwise:




















For those wondering, the nickel finish on the block and the RAM sticks is indeed different. Not too bad though!




















There were also a few other things but in due time


----------



## taowulf

Oh, I had no idea the Vadar fans came in anything other than boring grey. I like that glossy black.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> First, B Neg, dude. You've gone too far. Any other paint I see from here on out can't compete with that. You've ruined all other paint work I'll ever see with your perfectly gold flaked, amazing blue paint...and that blood red. It literally looks like liquid...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second, you and a few others inspired me to go ahead and pull the trigger on the airbrush and compressor. I'll see the airbrush early next week and the compressor shortly thereafter.


If you want to spray cases then you will need a 25ltr+ compressor with an oil/water trap. And a proper spraygun matched to the CFM of the compressor.

Airbrushes are good for small stuff,not cases. An airbrush can be used with your compressor if the regulator is turned down.


----------



## Ramzinho

i believe these are not vardar.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Oh, I had no idea the Vadar fans came in anything other than boring grey. I like that glossy black.


I second that. They actually look like NoiseBlocker Silent Blacks. They aren't slotted and if I'm not mistaken look like different blades.

Either way, awesome haul, VSG!! I can't wait to see what you do with them.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you want to spray cases then you will need a 25ltr+ compressor with an oil/water trap. And a proper spraygun matched to the CFM of the compressor.
> 
> Airbrushes are good for small stuff,not cases. An airbrush can be used with your compressor if the regulator is turned down.


No case work for me, unless it is accent stuff. This is mainly for smaller components. Thanks for the tips as usual! Have you found that there are any accessories that you'd recommend? Anything to clean the airbrush, any additional tools or attachments, etc..


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Oh, I had no idea the Vadar fans came in anything other than boring grey. I like that glossy black.


These are actually 180mm fans (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/fans/ek-fan-180-pwm-500-900-rpm.html) made by EK along with Gelid for their Coolstream WE series.

But there is a full matte black (aside from the red cable, anyway) 120mm Vardar:


----------



## Ramzinho

This is probably the busiest day of this thread's life in a long time


----------



## nismoskyline

more progress









any yes, it is prior insulation from when I was doing sub-zero


----------



## wermad

Thought about the 240 mod at the bottom?


----------



## guitarhero23

Question: how do you get rid of the air bubble looking things inside a GPU block that arent air bubbles in the normal loop section but in between the metal and block in other spots. Know what i mean?


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thought about the 240 mod at the bottom?


I have had a 240 down there in the past but I mount it differently so it fits, and without cutting the case it really doesn't help because airflow is so blocked off, I was able to actually mount the 120 through vents so I'm hoping it will help more with cooling this time
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Question: how do you get rid of the air bubble looking things inside a GPU block that arent air bubbles in the normal loop section but in between the metal and block in other spots. Know what i mean?


try tilting the case or cycling pump speeds, that helps with most bubbles


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Question: how do you get rid of the air bubble looking things inside a GPU block that arent air bubbles in the normal loop section but in between the metal and block in other spots. Know what i mean?


I think he is talking about the condensation in the plastic clip that secures the jet into the block. I have them in my block also. No tilting or running the pump at Max rpms removed mine. I have tilted it in all axis and they persist.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Told you it was a good airbrush.
> 
> Nice and easy to clean with a great pattern.


It is indeed mate, thank you very much again for the suggestion. I am impressed by the quality. I think is great for painting fans since you can cover it with a very thin film of paint using a sealant for the plastic, a primer and then the paint. Easy and look a lot smoother and thin that the plasti-dip or primer/can paint. It also helps a lot in a frame like the GT where there is ton of little crevisses and holes where normal Can Spray does not reach and you end up overdoing the paint cover in other parts just to fill those bugger holes on the corner of the fan...









@guitarhero23 put the pump at 100% for a while. Then put it at 25% and repeat the whole process after a few minutes going to 100%. It will go away. You just filled the loop?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is indeed mate, thank you very much again for the suggestion. I am impressed by the quality. I think is great for painting fans since you can cover it with a very thin film of paint using a sealant for the plastic, a primer and then the paint. Easy and look a lot smoother and thin that the plasti-dip or primer/can paint. It also helps a lot in a frame like the GT where there is ton of little crevisses and holes where normal Can Spray does not reach and you end up overdoing the paint cover in other parts just to fill those bugger holes on the corner of the fan...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @guitarhero23 put the pump at 100% for a while. Then put it at 25% and repeat the whole process after a few minutes going to 100%. It will go away. You just filled the loop?


I did. 2nd leak test after 1st one ruined my midplate color photo paper and had to tske apart the whole build


----------



## corysti

Here is the current process of the build. planning on changing my cables and adding another color other than black and white.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I did. 2nd leak test after 1st one ruined my midplate color photo paper and had to tske apart the whole build


Sorry traveling a lot I missed that part on your log. But for all that is worth people should really take it to the heart the air leak test message. Is so much easier and safer and so few money involved. You can check you systems easily and fix any problem with it on air without ever putting water on it. I got 3 or 4 leaks in chessboard before ever putting liquid there...


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Sorry traveling a lot I missed that part on your log. But for all that is worth people should really take it to the heart the air leak test message. Is so much easier and safer and so few money involved. You can check you systems easily and fix any problem with it on air without ever putting water on it. I got 3 or 4 leaks in chessboard before ever putting liquid there...


I probably won't be rebuilding my loop for a couple weeks, but all the stuff I need to air test for leaks was ordered today.


----------



## Toan

Anyone know if the pastel orange that PPC sells is the same thing as the gigabyte pastel orange that's on the mayhems website?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Anyone know if the pastel orange that PPC sells is the same thing as the gigabyte pastel orange that's on the mayhems website?


You can ask Mick at the mayhem's users club


----------



## Natskyge

Im in the process of planing a watercooling loop and stuff and i got the idea to get an Aqua computer gpu plexi block and get the metal parts powdercoated if i got the inside powder coat would it still conduct heat?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natskyge*
> 
> Im in the process of planing a watercooling loop and stuff and i got the idea to get an Aqua computer gpu plexi block and get the metal parts powdercoated if i got the inside powder coat would it still conduct heat?


Dont PC the waterchannels,it will ruin the block


----------



## VSG

Looks like Watercool has their D5 top out finally:


----------



## DarthBaggins

oooh I likey


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like Watercool has their D5 top out finally:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks so much like the Koolance one.. Am i right?


----------



## VSG

Yeah I will admit I thought the same thing first up.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> It looks so much like the Koolance one.. Am i right?


It really does. Though, that Heatkiller looks amazing. I need a D5 top for Sweet Leilani...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like Watercool has their D5 top out finally:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks kinda familiar though right








The extra outlet port on the Watercool will be useful for some users, but I prefer the direct res attachment of the Koolance.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Sorry traveling a lot I missed that part on your log. But for all that is worth people should really take it to the heart the air leak test message. Is so much easier and safer and so few money involved. You can check you systems easily and fix any problem with it on air without ever putting water on it. I got 3 or 4 leaks in chessboard before ever putting liquid there...


I didnt post about the fail lol. More focused on fixing it


----------



## Wolfsbora

Will the Heatkiller pump top come in any different colors?


----------



## wermad

I would imagine if any, it would be acetal, white acetal, and plexi. Knowing it's Hk, it may be made from solid copper







. Joking aside, I doubt they will offer it in white, maybe clear.


----------



## fast_fate

Had the HWLabs SR2 multi-port in the photo booth.....


----------



## guitarhero23

Jeez, Bitspower fittings CAN be tough to turn sometimes!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would imagine if any, it would be acetal, white acetal, and plexi. Knowing it's Hk, *it may be made from solid copper*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Joking aside, I doubt they will offer it in white, maybe clear.


And I would buy many of them.

I luuuuurve Watercool. The ONLY brand I can be accused of bias for......


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And I would buy many of them.
> 
> I luuuuurve Watercool. The ONLY brand I can be accused of bias for......


That's a rare occasion


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And I would buy many of them.
> 
> I luuuuurve Watercool. The ONLY brand I can be accused of bias for......
> 
> 
> 
> That's a rare occasion
Click to expand...

Its a shame they dont release more stuff,I would be all over it


----------



## VSG

Oh man I just took possession of a few things from FedEx. Here I was thinking how the EK WE540 was huge and then the Monsta comes in. Also in was the XT45 version which actually has 7 ports as with all the UT60 and Monsta rads unlike the 120/140mm sizes without have 6 as far as I know.


----------



## wermad

Silverstone owners will have more options









@BNeg, their stuff is awesome. I've mentioned it before, best quality blocks I've had. I was a bit disappointed they didn't do a vesuvius block (AC encroachment?)







.


----------



## VSG

Silverstone owners will have another option soon too actually









As far as I can see, the EK version is still the easiest to use as an external rad due to the removal core feature. In this case, simply unscrew one of the end plates and add in a larger stand similar to what XSPC offers for their AX series of rads. Alternatively, one can also use longer screws and have a stand installed in as-is.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh man I just took possession of a few things from FedEx. Here I was thinking how the EK WE540 was huge and then the Monsta comes in. Also in was the XT45 version which actually has 7 ports as with all the UT60 and Monsta rads unlike the 120/140mm sizes without have 6 as far as I know.


In your excitement your grammatical skills have lapsed slightly.









If I understand what you're trying to say.... I can confirm that the UT60 560 (4x140) does have 7 ports. Which is great for running dual rads in the basement of my case with port 7 on each being on the low side for easier draining.

Congrats on the delivery.


----------



## VSG

Lol yeah sorry for the confusion. I am glad to see the point got through, but essentially what I meant was that the Alphacool ST30 series rads have 2 ports, XT45 have 6, UT60 and Monsta have 7. This is true for the 120-480 and 140-560mm rads. The 180-540mm rads from them come in the XT45 and Monsta sizes only, and both have 7 ports. No idea about the smaller radiator sizes though- I know they have some 40, 80, 92, 160 and 184mm rads also.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lol yeah sorry for the confusion. I am glad to see the point got through, but essentially what I meant was that the Alphacool ST30 series rads have 2 ports, XT45 have 6, UT60 and Monsta have 7. This is true for the 120-480 and 140-560mm rads. The 180-540mm rads from them come in the XT45 and Monsta sizes only, and both have 7 ports. No idea about the smaller radiator sizes though- I know they have some 40, 80, 92, 160 and 184mm rads also.


Now that made a lot more sense.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Jeez, Bitspower fittings CAN be tough to turn sometimes!


Still running compression and fingers will get bruised after installing many. Small knicks will happen from some sharp edges. Ah, the joys (pain) of wc







.

Miss the ease of ghost fittings of my hardline attempt.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Jeez, Bitspower fittings CAN be tough to turn sometimes!


When working on my build I use a low profile set of gloves with grips on the fingers... Has saved me a lot of pain in the last water build I did.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still running compression and fingers will get bruised after installing many. Small knicks will happen from some sharp edges. Ah, the joys (pain) of wc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Miss the ease of ghost fittings of my hardline attempt.


This is why I wussed out and got Monsoon Free Centers.









My tender fingers haven't done any real work to speak of in 20 years.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

When it comes to Dual 180mm rads ... Which would be the best to get ? ... EK, Alphacool XT45 or Magicool (hope I got the brands right)


----------



## kc5vdj

Am I in???

A custom loop is next year's project. Not rich, have to collect the parts first...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> When it comes to Dual 180mm rads ... Which would be the best to get ? ... EK, Alphacool XT45 or Magicool (hope I got the brands right)


What timing! How long can you wait for an answer? I can give you some estimates but I would have a more detailed answer in a week or two. What fans are you planning to use?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What timing! How long can you wait for an answer? I can give you some estimates but I would have a more detailed answer in a week or two. What fans are you planning to use?


I will probably look at importing in June/July ... still trying to get pricing as shipping to South Africa is a pain (cost wise mostly)

I will be using AP181's with the rads and I will be using a Aerocool Shark Yellow with the 120mm rad that I will pick at a later stage .

*:::EDIT:::*

Ok so it turns out I need some advice, I would like to know which Pump/Res combo you guys would recommend both bay and cylindrical (that wont break the bank) from PPC.

Also, which fittings would you recommend ?

Parts I have chosen so far:

CPU Block - Apogee XL Radio Active
Rad - Either Dual 180 + 120mm Alphacool XT45 or 280/240mm XT45 depending if I stick with my Silverstone Raven 02 or If I get the Jonsbo W2 (need to find an importer)
Tubing - Suggested size in either white/yellow

At a later stage I will add a GPU block as well (need to see if I will change my GTX680 in June/July)


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I will probably look at importing in June/July ... still trying to get pricing as shipping to South Africa is a pain (cost wise mostly)
> 
> I will be using AP181's with the rads and I will be using a Aerocool Shark Yellow with the 120mm rad that I will pick at a later stage .
> 
> *:::EDIT:::*
> 
> Ok so it turns out I need some advice, I would like to know which Pump/Res combo you guys would recommend both bay and cylindrical (that wont break the bank) from PPC.
> 
> Also, which fittings would you recommend ?
> 
> Parts I have chosen so far:
> 
> CPU Block - Apogee XL Radio Active
> Rad - Either Dual 180 + 120mm Alphacool XT45 or 280/240mm XT45 depending if I stick with my Silverstone Raven 02 or If I get the Jonsbo W2 (need to find an importer)
> Tubing - Suggested size in either white/yellow
> 
> At a later stage I will add a GPU block as well (need to see if I will change my GTX680 in June/July)


I'll be glad ot help you with stuff EM.. if you need any help hit me on Steam


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I'll be glad ot help you with stuff EM.. if you need any help hit me on Steam


I will definitely hit you up on steam for some advice ... ... It's pretty basic advice like which fittings will be best and what size tubing/fittings should I go for


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I will definitely hit you up on steam for some advice ... ... It's pretty basic advice like which fittings will be best and what size tubing/fittings should I go for


i will be helping you to get better deals and save u a lot..


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i will be helping you to get better deals and save u a lot..


Thanks for all the help on steam so far ... you really helping me out !

Question for all ::

What is the smallest good looking chassis for watercooling that will fit an ATX board ?


----------



## xebaxtian

I am new at this



suggestions please


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Had the HWLabs SR2 multi-port in the photo booth.....


That looks smexy. Do you know the thickness of that radiator? Or is that still under NDA?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

sr2 should be same as sr1 54mm????


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kc5vdj*
> 
> Am I in???
> 
> A custom loop is next year's project. Not rich, have to collect the parts first...


Everyone has to start somewhere







welcome to the club


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ready to Correct Faults In the SMA8

I will Get both Loops Running Tonight.



TCO


----------



## wermad

I got banned from using the kitchen as my work space







.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got banned from using the kitchen as my work space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .










Me too!


----------



## Wolfsbora

My cousin and I used to work on our Harleys in the kitchen of my old apartment. The landlord wasn't too pleased when he saw it...









I've turned my dining room into my man cave since my son took my last one.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ready to Correct Faults In the SMA8
> 
> I will Get both Loops Running Tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


That's some nice picture.. deep thought u are giving for that build lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got banned from using the kitchen as my work space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me too!


I never used the kitchen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> My cousin and I used to work on our Harleys in the kitchen of my old apartment. The landlord wasn't too pleased when he saw it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've turned my dining room into my man cave since my son took my last one.


Dining table is my work bench..







lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got banned from using the kitchen as my work space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You see the Clover on my arm eh? I am very lucky









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me too!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> My cousin and I used to work on our Harleys in the kitchen of my old apartment. The landlord wasn't too pleased when he saw it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've turned my *dining room into my man cave* since my son took my last one.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> *That's some nice picture.. deep thought u are giving for that build* lol
> 
> I never used the kitchen.
> Dining table is my work bench..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


I had another leak and realized the Mosfet Waterblock's Rubber Seal wasn't seated right. I hope that Is all I need worry about and Fix









TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You see the Clover on my arm eh? I am very lucky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had another leak and realized the Mosfet Waterblock's Rubber Seal wasn't seated right. I hope that Is all I need worry about and Fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


and you were mocking me when i said to air test it


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> and you were mocking me when i said to air test it


Got mine all set up. Cost me about $25 USD total. Well worth the money IMHO.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> and you were mocking me when i said to air test it


TCO's just being stubborn about air testing now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> and you were mocking me when i said to air test it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Got mine all set up. Cost me about $25 USD total. Well worth the money IMHO.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> TCO's just being stubborn about air testing now.


ALRIGHT!!!! Look here you 3. I know I shoulda bought a shrader valve and all the fancy stuff OK?









Maybe I don't want to do that so I can keep working on this thing









After 6 months... You kinda don't want to let your baby grow up!










I know.. I am The Crazy One.

I accept that.

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> ALRIGHT!!!! Look here you 3. I know I shoulda bought a shrader valve and all the fancy stuff OK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I don't want to do that so I can keep working on this thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 6 months... You kinda don't want to let your baby grow up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know.. I am The Crazy One.
> 
> I accept that.
> 
> TCO


suddenly TCO = The Impatient Lazy One.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> suddenly TCO = The Impatient Lazy One.


I am young and Learning. I won't accept lazy. I really am working my *** off.

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am young and Learning. I won't accept lazy. I really am working my *** off.
> 
> TCO


If i offended you i'm so so so sorry. i'm just teasing you.. again sorry.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> If i offended you i'm so so so sorry. i'm just teasing you.. again sorry.


Relax. Im all jacked up on Caffeine! Plus I'm tripping out over here. Uploading a Video For you Ramz! You know I love you guys. All yous.

We all have different ways of Learning. I like the Hard way








TCO

My Woman was playing The Assassins Creed in the Background


----------



## tytechguy

Hey guys, wanted to see if I can join in. It's always a work in progress and I have many many upgrades or additions happening almost every week or day if I can

Corsair AIR540 in white with custom painted white interior
I7 5820K @ 4.2ghz 1.225v
EVGA FTW mainboard
16gb Crucial Ballistix
Nvidia GTX 980 SC w/ custom BIOS flash @ 1.583ghz
Gigabyte wireless ac/bluetooth PCIe x1 card
EVGA 1000G2 PSU w/custom sleeved cables in UV green (I used 1/8" paracord and no heat shrink)
Alphacool D5 single edition w/speed control
XSPC pump head in black
XSPC 270mm Res w/green LED
XSPC 980 waterblock
XSPC Raystorm CPU block w/ white inlay
XSPC 3/8-1/2" compression fittings in black chrome
XSPC EX240 rad
XSPC 120mm Xinruilian fans x4 1-140mm Corsair
Primochill flow indicator
Primochill 3/8-1/2" UV green LRT tubing
2 240gb PNY Optima SSD striped in RAID0
2 2TB Seagate Baracuda platter drives
2 AOC 27" IPS displays
Razer Ouroboros mouse
Steelseries RAW keyboard
LG Bluray writer
Logitech Z5500's in Perfect condition
LED lighting w/ control module and remote (makes about any color including UV)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> If i offended you i'm so so so sorry. i'm just teasing you.. again sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> Relax. Im all jacked up on Caffeine! Plus I'm tripping out over here. Uploading a Video For you Ramz! You know I love you guys. All yous.
> 
> We all have different ways of Learning. I like the Hard way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> My Woman was playing The Assassins Creed in the Background
Click to expand...

All I get is sound Cautious.







You block my visual since I did say I was comin over with my handtruck?







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> All I get is sound Cautious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You block my visual since I did say I was comin over with *my handtruck*?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder










You leave your Handtruck over there!

TCO


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am young and Learning. I won't accept lazy. I really am working my *** off.
> 
> TCO


And as you get older you'll learn to work smarter not harder. Kids today.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> And as you get older you'll learn to work smarter not harder. Kids today.


Can someone guide me to a Replacement O Ring for the RVE Mosfet? I seemed to have pinched mine.. You can see in this pic.


----------



## Ithanul

Whole lot of posts, interesting read about peeps favorite sounding cars.









So when those HWLab multi port rads showing up? Want to nab me some for my main rig.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> And as you get older you'll learn to work smarter not harder. Kids today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone guide me to a Replacement O Ring for the RVE Mosfet? I seemed to have pinched mine.. You can see in this pic.
Click to expand...

Open up a support ticket @ ekwb.com/support


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That looks smexy. Do you know the thickness of that radiator? Or is that still under NDA?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> sr2 should be same as sr1 54mm????


As far as I can tell the Multi-Port SR2 is an engineering sample...
But had no NDA due to using what I believe is the same core as the currently available single port SR2.
Unfortunately I don't have any more info on it...
Or a single port SR2 with which to compare.
However looking at specs and other reviews - this one from VSG for example.......they do appear to have the same core.
The HWL SR2 core is significantly thicker than that of the SR1 (among other things)








I measure total thickness on SR2 at 60mm - SR1 was 53mm
core thickness at 48mm - SR1 was 33mm.
It will be next into the thermal chamber, with a review to follow shortly after


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> And as you get older you'll learn to work smarter not harder. Kids today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone guide me to a Replacement O Ring for the RVE Mosfet? I seemed to have pinched mine.. You can see in this pic.
Click to expand...

Going back and looking at enlarged pics, you can see the problem in a pic from page ~55 of the build log . . . .

Any time you take a block apart, you raise the chances of it leaking exponentially.

Be sure to take a good light and magnifying glass to double check all the other blocks.

As much as you've handled that block, you probably should have noticed that.



D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Going back and looking at enlarged pics, you can see the problem in a pic from page ~55 of the build log . . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Any time you take a block apart, you raise the chances of it leaking exponentially.
> 
> Be sure to take a good light and magnifying glass to double check all the other blocks.
> 
> As much as you've handled that block, you probably should have noticed that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Well I understand that. A replacement? Do you know where I could get it Diva?

tCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Filling loop as of this morning. http://imgur.com/OOosMMJ Final photos to come soon.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Filling loop as of this morning. http://imgur.com/OOosMMJ Final photos to come soon.


dam that looks nice!


----------



## derickwm

^that's my next goal. I really want to make a nice filling video like p0pe did with that Case Labs mod.


----------



## p5ych00n5

After chewing through 3 metres of hardline with failed bends I just ordered another 5 metres of tubing.............


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> After chewing through 3 metres of hardline with failed bends I just ordered another 5 metres of tubing.............
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LOL. Props to you man. DONT GIVE UP. WE BELIEVE


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> LOL. Props to you man. DONT GIVE UP. WE BELIEVE


Cheers mate, props to you and all who put up with my amateurish n00b-ness


----------



## kc5vdj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Everyone has to start somewhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> welcome to the club


Thank you Sir!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Cheers mate, props to you and all who put up with my *amateurish n00b-ness*


we've all been here and this place welcomes all. threads here to help and you'll find all levels of expertise. Don't be afraid to ask


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got banned from using the kitchen as my work space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I take over the dining room and half the living room when I'm doing a build. Couldn't even build an itx rig in our kitchen it's so tiny!


----------



## wermad

^^lol,

Question for those w/ xspc rad brackets or have info (I can't find any specs or manuals). I'm looking for the distance these brackets add to a radiator setup:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiator-mounting-bracket-set-6-32-unc.html#Specifications



thanks and +1


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^lol,
> 
> Question for those w/ xspc rad brackets or have info (I can't find any specs or manuals). I'm looking for the distance these brackets add to a radiator setup:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiator-mounting-bracket-set-6-32-unc.html#Specifications
> 
> 
> 
> thanks and +1


40mm


----------



## wermad

Thank you good sir


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you good sir


NP









Bit of a bend up for an old fave


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> As far as I can tell the Multi-Port SR2 is an engineering sample...
> But had no NDA due to using what I believe is the same core as the currently available single port SR2.
> Unfortunately I don't have any more info on it...
> Or a single port SR2 with which to compare.
> However looking at specs and other reviews - this one from VSG for example.......they do appear to have the same core.
> The HWL SR2 core is significantly thicker than that of the SR1 (among other things)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I measure total thickness on SR2 at 60mm - SR1 was 53mm
> core thickness at 48mm - SR1 was 33mm.
> It will be next into the thermal chamber, with a review to follow shortly after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Excellent flow Fast. Damn sr2 would be the rad to go when released with those extra ports. I am guessing the extra core will give an healthy boost on performance too









@TheCautiousOne Derik already suggest you the golden path: open the ticket. Ek shipping and support is on spot these days and you will get very fast a replacement ring.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Excellent flow Fast. Damn sr2 would be the rad to go when released with those extra ports. I am guessing the extra core will give an healthy boost on performance too


Now to convince them to add a bleeder port also for the complete set








VSG's push showed thermal performance similar to UT60, so I'm expecting some pretty good performance in push/pull testing.
Not right at the top due to the low FPI, but significantly better than the SR1.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Now to convince them to add a bleeder port also for the complete set
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VSG's push showed thermal performance similar to UT60, so I'm expecting some pretty good performance in push/pull testing.
> Not right at the top due to the low FPI, but significantly better than the SR1.










really. That would be my top rad to go from now on. Yeah, the bleeder port would be the nail on the coffin so to speak. Nothing I handle in terms of rads so far compare to the quality of HWlabs rads (granted I am yet to get my hands on watercool and aquacomputer rads). But the SR2 is just right for my normal use (excellent flow, finish, made for low speed/noise, and now with an almost top notch performance?) I am totally sold.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Open up a support ticket @ ekwb.com/support


I missed this earlier. Put in a ticket. Thank you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Going back and looking at enlarged pics, you can see the problem in a pic from page ~55 of the build log . . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Any time you take a block apart, you raise the chances of it leaking exponentially.
> 
> Be sure to take a good light and magnifying glass to double check all the other blocks.
> 
> As much as you've handled that block, you probably should have noticed that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


I didn't realize the question had been answered Diva.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Excellent flow Fast. Damn sr2 would be the rad to go when released with those extra ports. I am guessing the extra core will give an healthy boost on performance too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @TheCautiousOne Derik already suggest you the golden path: open the ticket. Ek shipping and support is on spot these days and you will get very fast a replacement ring.


Thank you. When you tagged me I realized I missed Derik's Post.

The Cautious One


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> NP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bit of a bend up for an old fave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, very well done like the black hardline


----------



## snef

Done

just waiting for an accessories and try it in the case









all photos in my build logs
http://www.overclock.net/t/1539643/sponsored-snefs-gold-wings


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Done
> 
> just waiting for an accessories and try it in the case
> 
> 
> 
> all photos in my build logs
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1539643/sponsored-snefs-gold-wings


Wow







egypt temple of the doom


----------



## erso44

Does a backplate for ek fc improve better temp´s ??


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Done
> 
> just waiting for an accessories and try it in the case
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all photos in my build logs
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1539643/sponsored-snefs-gold-wings


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> Wow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> egypt temple of the doom


I Demand to take this Build... My ancestors will haunt you down snef


----------



## wermad

Best pc'nap threat I've heard


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Bit of a bend up for an old fave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip


x58 <3


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Does a backplate for ek fc improve better temp´s ??


In all honesty, I don't think it does. It's mainly for aesthetics. Same goes for all backplates. I believe the only difference is when you have memory chips on the back of the card, such as Titans.


----------



## wermad

On some cards it does such as the 295x2 but it's more beneficial when on air or aio cooling. Once you slap on a custom waterblock, I think the advantages are marginal.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> In all honesty, I don't think it does. It's mainly for aesthetics. Same goes for all backplates. I believe the only difference is when you have memory chips on the back of the card, such as Titans.


I hope you´re right and EK´s thermal paste will be enough.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> In all honesty, I don't think it does. It's mainly for aesthetics. Same goes for all backplates. I believe the only difference is when you have memory chips on the back of the card, such as Titans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> On some cards it does such as the 295x2 but it's more beneficial when on air or aio cooling. Once you slap on a custom waterblock, I think the advantages are marginal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I hope you´re right and EK´s thermal paste will be enough.


Best definition for the use of backplates was given by someone recently in Tx club: The backplate is there to protect the card from myself









and under that category I can think of several things: my stupid fingers, spills from my beer bottle, Overfilling the rad and so much more nice and careful moments we all have while working or our loops....


----------



## erso44

ok sir, that was a clear message


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Best definition for the use of backplates was given by someone recently in Tx club: The backplate is there to protect the card from myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and under that category I can think of several things: my stupid fingers, spills from my beer bottle, Overfilling the rad and so much more nice and careful moments we all have while working or our loops....


All these and doesn't it help avoid warping as well?


----------



## Ramzinho

where is @TheCautiousOne I've not seen him today. hope he haven't spilled fluid all over his rig


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> where is @TheCautiousOne I've not seen him today. hope he haven't spilled fluid all over his rig


I think he's off trying to use silicone sealer/adhesive on his mosfet block instead of just waiting to get the right replacement o-ring.

Wonder if he pulled the CPU out of the socket to be sure that no water got into or under the socket and to let any traces thoroughly dry out . . . . .

Impatience is going to be that young'uns downfall sooner or later.

Darlene


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think he's off trying to use silicone sealer/adhesive on his mosfet block instead of just waiting to get the right replacement o-ring.
> 
> Wonder if he pulled the CPU out of the socket to be sure that no water got into or under the socket and to let any traces thoroughly dry out . . . . .
> 
> Impatience is going to do that young man in sooner or later.
> 
> Darlene


÷ I certainly hope he didn't do that.. seriously.. I hope not.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think he's off trying to use silicone sealer/adhesive on his mosfet block instead of just waiting to get the right replacement o-ring.
> 
> Wonder if he pulled the CPU out of the socket to be sure that no water got into or under the socket and to let any traces thoroughly dry out . . . . .
> 
> Impatience is going to be that young'uns downfall sooner or later.
> 
> Darlene


So much for caution.









I wish him the best of luck though, so hard to be patient especially when you are so close to the end.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think he's off trying to use silicone sealer/adhesive on his mosfet block instead of just waiting to get the right replacement o-ring.
> 
> Wonder if he pulled the CPU out of the socket to be sure that no water got into or under the socket and to let any traces thoroughly dry out . . . . .
> 
> Impatience is going to do that young man in sooner or later.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> ÷ I certainly hope he didn't do that.. seriously.. I hope not.
Click to expand...

As of late, when it comes to listening to the voices of experience, he's certainly been; The Stubborn One.

D.


----------



## derickwm




----------



## wermad

Misato?


----------



## Lefik

What do you guys think of Swiftech TruFlex tubing, is it any good? It's the same stuff used on the H220s and it's quite cheap compared to the likes of Primochill and EK ZMT.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-truflex-tubing-3-8-od-x-5-8-id-6-5-ft-black.html


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> What do you guys think of Swiftech TruFlex tubing, is it any good? It's the same stuff used on the H220s and it's quite cheap compared to the likes of Primochill and EK ZMT.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-truflex-tubing-3-8-od-x-5-8-id-6-5-ft-black.html


I've not heard of it but I'm definitely interested to piggyback off of this. I've been looking for tubing for Sweet Leilani for a long time!


----------



## superericla

I'm not sure on the quality of that tubing, but 6.5' of tubing is oddly specific.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I'm not sure on the quality of that tubing, but 6.5' of tubing is oddly specific.


aka 2 meters, so not so odd.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> aka 2 meters, so not so odd.


Ah, that makes more sense. I suppose I'm just used to seeing tubing in 3 meter lengths.


----------



## derickwm

It's not really the same kind of tubing as ZMT is, so of course pricing will be different.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Take That! BLOCKED!! OOO AND THE CAUTIOUS ONE IS HERE!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> where is @TheCautiousOne I've not seen him today. hope he haven't spilled fluid all over his rig


Fluid has been spilled my friend!! I appreciate you checking on me









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think he's off trying to use silicone sealer/adhesive on his mosfet block instead of just waiting to get the right replacement o-ring.
> 
> Wonder if he pulled the CPU out of the socket to be sure that no water got into or under the socket and to let any traces thoroughly dry out . . . . .
> 
> Impatience is going to be that young'uns downfall sooner or later.
> 
> Darlene


I haven't done any of that. The Rig will not be "Turned On" (Much like you do to me Diva) For a couple days at least. I have no intention of trying to boot into windows for at least a week. NO Power. Just trying to get the Loops straight.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ÷ *I certainly hope he didn't do that.. seriously.. I hope not*.










OH BUT I DID!!!



Dried The Mosfet block and CSQ top then applied not even a pea size amount to the gasket parts that were crimped. Worked like a champ and No leaks or air penetration.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> So much for caution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish him the best of luck though, so hard to be patient especially when you are so close to the end.


I bow my head in thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As of late, when it comes to listening to the voices of experience, he's certainly been; *The Stubborn One.
> *
> 
> D.


Diva! You call me these names in Love?








*
VIDEO!!!*




The "Cautious, Stubborn, Crazy, Ludicrous" One


----------



## Trestles126

I worked on the ssd rack today and also custom mounted the HD below using a phanteks quick change rack and the 4 holes from the ssds. Mounted the ram block, and started running tubbing. As well as drilled and mounted a drain plug on the bottom. Going with white fittings because i have so many and also keeping the blood red fluid.

And yes I ordered a clean ek Cpu block cover as much as I don't wanna take it all apart!













Last project for today installed filter


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's not really the same kind of tubing as ZMT is, so of course pricing will be different.


Of course it is, but both are tubing that serve a similar purpose.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Added a white led to my Alphacool pump top in the R.C70

Potato Cam 6+ lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Of course it is, but both are tubing that serve a similar purpose.


zmt will not give you plasticizer because is made of rubber. the swiftech might give you plasticizer over time:



so yes all tubes serve the same purpose but accomplish that in different ways...

I like it @Trestles126







You got a black with just a touch of gunmetal or you custom painted the flex bay and I/O?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> zmt will not give you plasticizer because is made of rubber. the swiftech might give you plasticizer over time:
> 
> 
> 
> so yes all tubes serve the same purpose but accomplish that in different ways...


What is a good option for ZMT in 3/8 x 5/8?

And while I have you here, @Gabrielzm, what paint are you using with your airbrush? Is urethane a good option? It appears to hold up the best according to the various articles I've read.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What is a good option for ZMT in 3/8 x 5/8?
> 
> And while I have you here, @Gabrielzm, what paint are you using with your airbrush? Is urethane a good option? It appears to hold up the best according to the various articles I've read.


Hey mate. I am using zmt 3/8 x 5/8 in two builds. It is a great tube, easy to work and no plasticizer over time. About the paint I just headed to the paint shop nearby and grab a common automotive paint in black and white (1/4 gallon) and diluted 100% in thinner. It says: Laca nitrocellulose on it and it is for auto parts. For plastic parts don't forget the sealent and the primer first.

Edit - I am not familiar with the options in US and others probably would chime in but I would probably get something like this which like you said is urethane:

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/automotive-finishes/colors/basecoat-paint.html

they even give you specifics about the viscosity for different guns/airbrush psi.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Hey mate. I am using zmt 3/8 x 5/8 in two builds. It is a great tube, easy to work and no plasticizer over time. About the paint I just headed to the paint shop nearby and grab a common automotive paint in black and white (1/4 gallon) and diluted 100% in thinner. It says: Laca nitrocellulose on it and it is for auto parts.


Thank you! You're always a huge help! +1

I think ZMT is what I'll go with in the build then. How did the the finish come out using that paint? What grit sandpaper did you use? I would assume that it finishes with a nice high gloss.


----------



## Trestles126

Bl
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> zmt will not give you plasticizer because is made of rubber. the swiftech might give you plasticizer over time:
> 
> 
> 
> so yes all tubes serve the same purpose but accomplish that in different ways...
> 
> I like it @Trestles126
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got a black with just a touch of gunmetal or you custom painted the flex bay and I/O?


Black interior gunmetal outside panels n mono tray


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Thank you! You're always a huge help! +1
> 
> I think ZMT is what I'll go with in the build then. How did the the finish come out using that paint? What grit sandpaper did you use? I would assume that it finishes with a nice high gloss.


You are welcome mate







I got matte paint so the finish on all jobs I am doing is matte (either black, grey or white). For the rads parts I just sanded down with a medium grit sandpaper for a bit to prepare it (it was matte black) and then cleaned with a humid piece of old t-shirt and was ready. No need to primer actually since the default ek matte black act like the primer. For the fans you need to use first a sealent, then the primer to finally apply the paint. It gives you a much thinner finish that using plasti dip can (I used both methods and difference is night and day). Besides plasti dip is easy to get nicked over time while the sealent, primer, paint seems like a very durable finish.

edit - mind you I edited my previous post with some more info/thoughts







Let's see if I can find the pictures of the build with zmt on it...

here we go...My first incursion in watercooling 2 years ago:




compare that to this below and I can say OCN teach me a lot and help me improve miles and miles....


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You are welcome mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got matte paint so the finish on all jobs I am doing is matte (either black, grey or white). For the rads parts I just sanded down with a medium grit sandpaper for a bit to prepare it (it was matte black) and then cleaned with a humid piece of old t-shirt and was ready. No need to primer actually since the default ek matte black act like the primer. For the fans you need to use first a sealent, then the primer to finally apply the paint. It gives you a much thinner finish that using plasti dip can (I used both methods and difference is night and day). Besides plasti dip is easy to get nicked over time while the sealent, primer, paint seems like a very durable finish.
> 
> edit - mind you I edited my previous post with some more info/thoughts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see if I can find the pictures of the build with zmt on it...
> 
> here we go...My first incursion in watercooling 2 years ago:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> compare that to this below and I can say OCN teach me a lot and help me improve miles and miles....


I had never seen your latest build before! You did some really amazing work there. I need to make sure I remember this information. So even on the EK matte black the white came out just as you wanted it? I may just go with a matte finish then. It looks great on your rig.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> NP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bit of a bend up for an old fave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, fast_fate! Slowly but surely the bends are growing on me. When I made my loop I liked 90* adapters instead of bends and since an overhaul is in order, I may ditch the adapters for bends once I gather all the goodies.
Hmm, maybe chrome plated copper....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I had never seen your latest build before! You did some really amazing work there. I need to make sure I remember this information. So even on the EK matte black the white came out just as you wanted it? I may just go with a matte finish then. It looks great on your rig.


Most of the paint job done in chessboard (the black and white built) was done with matte white and matte black but using Cans. I got the airbrush 2 weeks ago and I am doing the paint job for "grey matter" using it. The ek rads I refer to are the ones in grey matter. Those on chessboard were also black (XSPC rx v3) and I used can on them. Turned out quite good but the airbrush finish is a step above for sure.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> zmt will not give you plasticizer because is made of rubber. the swiftech might give you plasticizer over time:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so yes all tubes serve the same purpose but accomplish that in different ways...


Thanks for more insight onto the risk of it, but let me explain further:
I realize the ZMT is a different material with difference properties; all I'm doing is looking at those two tubing options, seeing that the prices are more for one, and then wondering if the cheaper option is safe to use. I think that's a reasonable thing to wonder.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Thanks for more insight onto the risk of it, but let me explain further:
> I realize the ZMT is a different material with difference properties; all I'm doing is looking at those two tubing options, seeing that the prices are more for one, and then wondering if the cheaper option is safe to use. I think that's a reasonable thing to wonder.


love my zmt tubing. Its more flexible than regular tubing.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Thanks for more insight onto the risk of it, but let me explain further:
> I realize the ZMT is a different material with difference properties; all I'm doing is looking at those two tubing options, seeing that the prices are more for one, and then wondering if the cheaper option is safe to use. I think that's a reasonable thing to wonder.


Definitely it is a reasonable thing to wonder. Personally I would go with zmt since I don't want plasticizer gunk in my blocks and my experience with both tubes is 0 of that on the ek zmt and that block photo with the swiftech one (that was the h220 kit by the way with the original tubing). Just mine







and what I meant is that the difference in price have to be with the qualities of the tubes which in turn derive from their materials. Hope it helps


----------



## p5ych00n5

Huzzah CPU block arrived today











Tubing arrives tomorrow


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Huzzah CPU block arrived today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tubing arrives tomorrow


nice which one you got? The new graphite/nickel is one of the most beautiful cpu blocks I ever saw...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice, fast_fate! Slowly but surely the bends are growing on me. When I made my loop I liked 90* adapters instead of bends and since an overhaul is in order, I may ditch the adapters for bends once I gather all the goodies.
> Hmm, maybe chrome plated copper....


Cheers Chopper









I like to think of bent acrylic as trained soft tubing with no plasticizer issues








I've done fittings builds also, but for me, bent acrylic has the best aesthetics.
Just snuck the GPU in & out lines in, each having one bend following another with no spare room to move at all


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> nice which one you got? The new graphite/nickel is one of the most beautiful cpu blocks I ever saw...


http://shop.watercool.de/HEATKILLER-CPU-Rev30-AM2/AM3-LC/en

It's the cheapest/plainest? one of the lot, but I plan to mod/paint the POM top

_EDIT_

I'm in a slight conundrum, I have a reference and non reference 7970, I purchased a full cover block for the reference and a universal for the non reference from Heatkiller assuming that the ports would align (same block family), alas to my horror the ports aren't symmetrical so when I was using soft tubing it was an absolute pain to connect the blocks and I could only go in Serial not Parallel, but now with acrylic I _could_ go parallel, but aesthetically may be a wee bit funky

_EDIT_

Saw this badboy which might bypass the two capacitors, but then silver & nickel and all that


----------



## Ramzinho

@TheCautiousOne Is that what you wanted


----------



## p5ych00n5

The new block has forced my hand to use adapters


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> The new block has forced my hand to use adapters


What adapters do you mean?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What adapters do you mean?


The Monsoon fittings wont fit with the ports so close together so either 45 or 90 from the block

eg:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne Is that what you wanted


What do you mean?

TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> The Monsoon fittings wont fit with the ports so close together so either 45 or 90 from the block
> 
> eg:


Yes, those particular Monsoon fittings are extra thick. This is a common issue with them on CPU blocks.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What do you mean?
> 
> TCO


Just teasing you about your Gal's question mate


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Yes, those particular Monsoon fittings are extra thick. This is a common issue with them on CPU blocks.


I do think they look very sexay as fittings though


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I do think they look very sexay as fittings though


Have you thought about a 20/30 mm extension for it? It would get the other monsoon fitting over the other fitting. You wouldn't even notice the extension looking straight at the block.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I do think they look very sexay as fittings though


I'm with you there. Monsoon's fittings are pretty sizzzzzling hot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Have you thought about a 20/30 mm extension for it? It would get the other monsoon fitting over the other fitting. You wouldn't even notice the extension looking straight at the block.


This is actually a great suggestion. I'd do this if you don't actually need any angled adapters.


----------



## taowulf

Are those the Monsoon basics? They are pretty fat.

You should use the extension, you might start a new trend.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Have you thought about a 20/30 mm extension for it? It would get the other monsoon fitting over the other fitting. You wouldn't even notice the extension looking straight at the block.


Considering both tube routes would be running in opposite directions, I'm thinking these....


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Are those the Monsoon basics? They are pretty fat.
> 
> You should use the extension, you might start a new trend.


I love my extensions, they make my hair so long and wavy. I just ooze sass now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Just teasing you about your Gal's question mate


LMAO! Ah I got ya Now. I forgot that was at the end of the Film.







 Its sunny over here. Do you think I should shoot one outside since my house was a little dark yesterday?

TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> LMAO! Ah I got ya Now. I forgot that was at the end of the Film.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its sunny over here. Do you think I should shoot one outside since my house was a little dark yesterday?
> 
> TCO


Remove roof, problem solved.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'm with you there. Monsoon's fittings are pretty sizzzzzling hot.
> _*This is actually a great suggestion. I'd do this if you don't actually need any angled adapters*_.


My CPU to 240 rad is symmetrical, if I get/purchase a 90 adapter it would be a simple 90 bend


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Remove roof, problem solved.


I mean... There's always that









TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> My CPU to 240 rad is symmetrical, if I get/purchase a 90 adapter it would be a simple 90 bend


Looks like it works out! Those EK angle adapters are some of the best looking adapters out there.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'm with you there. Monsoon's fittings are pretty sizzzzzling hot.
> _This is actually a great suggestion. I'd do this if you don't actually need any angled adapters._


My Bad


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Thanks for more insight onto the risk of it, but let me explain further:
> I realize the ZMT is a different material with difference properties; all I'm doing is looking at those two tubing options, seeing that the prices are more for one, and then wondering if the cheaper option is safe to use. I think that's a reasonable thing to wonder.
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely it is a reasonable thing to wonder. Personally I would go with zmt since I don't want plasticizer gunk in my blocks and my experience with both tubes is 0 of that on the ek zmt and that block photo with the swiftech one (that was the h220 kit by the way with the original tubing). Just mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and what I meant is that the difference in price have to be with the qualities of the tubes which in turn derive from their materials. Hope it helps
Click to expand...

Gabrielzm's right about the Swiftech tubing. The tubing that currently comes with Swiftech's newer AIOs is not the same as the TruFlex tubing that they sell separately. That's what their older AIOs used to come with but they switched because of the plasticizer issues they had with it. The newer tubing they are using is not sold separately (yet).

Here's a couple posts from BramSLI1, Swiftech's OCN rep, from the Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X Club thread about their tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hellr4isEr*
> 
> Did the tubing change or something? I just bought my h220x from micro center and the tubing is gray like my corsair AIO and not black/shiny like i see online and on videos.... what gives?
> 
> 
> 
> We are now using a rubber tubing that is a flat black due to plasticizer issues with the glossy black vinyl tubing we were previously using. I hope this answers your question.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't currently sell the rubber tubing that comes with these kits separately as of yet. We're waiting for a supply of it to come in and it should arrive in the next 3 to 4 weeks. The tubing that we currently have on our website is the glossy black tubing that could have plasticizer issues over time.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> LMAO! Ah I got ya Now. I forgot that was at the end of the Film.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its sunny over here. Do you think I should shoot one outside since my house was a little dark yesterday?
> 
> TCO


DUH


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Gabrielzm's right about the Swiftech tubing. The tubing that currently comes with Swiftech's newer AIOs is not the same as the TruFlex tubing that they sell separately. That's what their older AIOs used to come with but they switched because of the plasticizer issues they had with it. The newer tubing they are using is not sold separately (yet).
> 
> Here's a couple posts from BramSLI1, Swiftech's OCN rep, from the Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X Club thread about their tubing.


It sounds like they are using a ZMT-like tubing now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love seeing the mailman carrying a package for me at the shop


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Love seeing the mailman carrying a package for me at the shop


I know that feeling buddy. My home is going to be a parcel hub the next month... I ordered TONS of stuff..







and it's all gonna arrive on the course of the month.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I know that feeling buddy. My home is going to be a parcel hub the next month... I ordered TONS of stuff..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it's all gonna arrive on the course of the month.


I actually just recycled all my boxes this morning now that the build is done. SO. MANY. PEANUTS. AND. BOXES. lol.


----------



## Ramzinho

Just for reference .. I've received 3 packages yesterday. and i'm waiting more 7 packages this month .... and yes i think i'll have a lot of boxes to be recycled after


----------



## mercinator16

So I finally got around to following that advice i was given to clean up my tube routings and added a few things as well.









I changed that XSPC Raystorm full copper block for the EK Supremacy EVO Nickel plated block and my temps went from peaking in the 80s to peaking in the mid 50s, Installation was also much much better than XSPCs method which i completely hated.









I still need to get around to adding a drainage valve and actually mounting my res/pump to the case and I don't know where to even start.









*BEFORE*


*AFTER*


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> So I made an attempt to clean up my tube routings
> 
> *BEFORE*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *AFTER*


Very Well done.


----------



## kc5vdj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Done
> 
> just waiting for an accessories and try it in the case
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all photos in my build logs
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1539643/sponsored-snefs-gold-wings


Freaking WOW! That rig is beautiful!

Oh, and I noticed Isis in there? What do you think you could do for a Shazaam? (oops, my age is showing!)

What kind of chassis is that?


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's the EK Vulture


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> The Monsoon fittings wont fit with the ports so close together so either 45 or 90 from the block
> 
> eg:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, those particular Monsoon fittings are extra thick. This is a common issue with them on CPU blocks.
Click to expand...

Well that sucks but I honestly think that it's the manufacturer of the Rest that did that. I have those fittings on my FrozenQ red and my Supreme HF and can hand tighten them with plenty of clearance to spare. Now my Chainguns on the other hand, you can't get them onto my Resume w/o an adaptive fitting or two.

~Ceadder


----------



## Wolfsbora

Just picked up a Digital Vernier Caliper Micrometer Gauge finally! They really come in handy in the water cooled world.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Just picked up a Digital Vernier Caliper Micrometer Gauge finally! They really come in handy in the water cooled world.


Yes i bought the exact thing 2 weeks ago.. and since i'm going to be doing a lot of painting, sanding and cutting...i ordered this today


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol I still roll my pocket caliper. It's old and it's missing the lockwheel, but it serves the purpose well and didn't cost me a cent.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Gabrielzm's right about the Swiftech tubing. The tubing that currently comes with Swiftech's newer AIOs is not the same as the TruFlex tubing that they sell separately. That's what their older AIOs used to come with but they switched because of the plasticizer issues they had with it. The newer tubing they are using is not sold separately (yet).
> 
> Here's a couple posts from BramSLI1, Swiftech's OCN rep, from the Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X Club thread about their tubing.


Nice to known that Swiftech is taking care of this. Thanks for chiming in


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Yes i bought the exact thing 2 weeks ago.. and since i'm going to be doing a lot of painting, sanding and cutting...i ordered this today


Looks like a good set! I should probably pick up something like that.


----------



## fast_fate

Minor update from yesterday after some fab work on the case








mobo assembly fitted in place


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Minor update from yesterday after some fab work on the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mobo assembly fitted in place


Looking pretty awesome, fast_fate! Always good work!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Just picked up a Digital Vernier Caliper Micrometer Gauge finally! They really come in handy in the water cooled world.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes i bought the exact thing 2 weeks ago.. and since i'm going to be doing a lot of painting, sanding and cutting...i ordered this today
Click to expand...

You would of been better served with....



and...



You want VOC proof masks and gloves that you just throw away once they get any paint on.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You would of been better served with....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You want VOC proof masks and gloves that you just throw away once they get any paint on.


Thanks, B Neg! +1 It's probably a good idea to use these if I'm using urethane based paints with the airbrush, wouldn't you say?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You would of been better served with....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You want VOC proof masks and gloves that you just throw away once they get any paint on.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, B Neg! +1 It's probably a good idea to use these if I'm using *urethane based paints* with the airbrush, wouldn't you say?
Click to expand...

I use that very mask myself,I can stand in a completely fogged booth and still not smell a thing. Get the all singing/dancing filters and get the particulate pre filters,they save the chem filters from getting clogged. About £60 all in but it will last years if treated right. Silicone for a good fit.

VOC's will mess your lungs up and those dust masks are worthless as protection from anything other than construction dust.

The most basic protection I could recommend and feel good about would be....



The 6 or 7 series 3M mask is what I would go for tho.


----------



## Ramzinho

None of these are available here B..









similar stuff available.. but B.. you made me discover stuff i didn't know area available here... MAN now i'm gonna be broke for like 10 months.. simply all dremel accessories became available here.. i'm in big trouble


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Minor update from yesterday after some fab work on the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mobo assembly fitted in place
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very interesting design. Do you have a build log for this? NVM, I found it in your "Started Threads"


----------



## erso44

hope everything will be good.
Northbridge cooler for ASUS Sabertooth X79.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Silicone didn't work. Leak after 10hours of Test.

Ordered the 10 Pack on Amazon. 3- 5 day shipping. No Overnight..









Ah.. It was worth a shot.

TCO

Figured I would report.


----------



## taowulf

Paper masks are only good for pedestrians in Asian cities.

Get a serious mask, your lungs are important.









I never used for for painting (wasn't a painter), I had to use them when I drove a sweeper truck for a while, and not having a mask with the crap I used to blow around would have been insane.

This was me after a LIGHT night at work -



After a real dirty job, it would change my race.

Never took the time to take a pic when I got that dirty, all I wanted to do was wash the crap off.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Silicone didn't work. Leak after 10hours of Test.
> 
> Ordered the 10 Pack on Amazon. 3- 5 day shipping. No Overnight..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah.. It was worth a shot.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Figured I would report.


Seriously we should call you the Impatient Stubborn one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Paper masks are only good for pedestrians in Asian cities.
> 
> Get a serious mask, your lungs are important.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never used for for painting (wasn't a painter), I had to use them when I drove a sweeper truck for a while, and not having a mask with the crap I used to blow around would have been insane.
> 
> This was me after a LIGHT night at work -
> 
> 
> 
> After a real dirty job, it would change my race.
> 
> Never took the time to take a pic when I got that dirty, all I wanted to do was wash the crap off.


I'll see. the filtered masks are like 100$ a Budgt i dont have now... if it gets serious i'll buy one.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You would of been better served with....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You want VOC proof masks and gloves that you just throw away once they get any paint on.


Thanks again mate. The mask is what I was looking for and found the 6000 series locally along with the filter. The gloves is what I use already.







+rep


----------



## Hambone07si

If anyone's impatient, that would be me FOR SURE!! I can't stand to wait for next day air sometimes LOL. That's even too long. I'm really glad there's a Microcenter only 10min away from me so I can get most of what I need usually, except for some water cooling parts. Then I'll next day air that stuff mostly. Guess you could kinda see that from my last month of pc work.

Single 780ti on ACX cooler.
To Asus Swift Rog 144hz G-sync
Dual 780ti on ACX coolers, wasn't happy with temps and summer coming so had to change.
Kraken G10's with Corsair H55's in push/pull, max temps now 45c. Had for 1 week.
Full custom loop and 780ti's on Kryographic blocks and max temps now 37/38c. Had for 4 days, then sold
Titan X stock cooler, dumping 75c air into my place. Summer coming, Not good.
Next day air EK nickel plated water block and back plate, Max temp 35c. Only 450w overclocked.

Now Hambone is happy









Talk about impatient HAHAHA


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> *Seriously we should call you the Impatient Stubborn one.*


I accept that.







Just a learning experience is all.










Trying to retain knowledge of things I have no Idea about.

TSOB


----------



## wermad

Put together a small rig (stock, air/aio cooling) for backup and/or to ease of the suffering of the wip build?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Put together a small rig (stock, air/aio cooling) for backup and/or to ease of the suffering of the wip build?


Who Me Werm?

TCO


----------



## wermad

Sure, why not







. I found a place I can mount my ssd, so I'll be down for a few days and be joining you in the "waiting room" for our babies to be delivered


----------



## Ramzinho

So Remember guys when i told you my home will be a small parcel hub?

3 packages in my forward service







... might be here by saturday/sunday


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> So Remember guys when i told you my home will be a small parcel hub?
> 
> 3 packages in my forward service
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... might be here by saturday/sunday


what did you order mate?


----------



## erso44

are you guys kidding me or srsly should I send it back? :O

PLS ANSWERE!

dude what in hell "10pack" what the ....WHAT HAHAHAHAAHHAAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH

http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=10%20Pack


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> are you guys kidding me or srsly should I send it back? :O
> 
> PLS ANSWERE!
> 
> dude what in hell "10pack" what the ....WHAT HAHAHAHAAHHAAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH
> 
> http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=10%20Pack


Wait. What? Why am I looking at 10 packs of underwear?


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Wait. What? Why am I looking at 10 packs of underwear?


HHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAH


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> what did you order mate?


ALOT OF STUFF..

what i'm getting in the mail soon

2X 290X blocks with backplates
Swiftech Helix Fans
NZXT GRID+ "got it so cheap.... until i can afford an aquero"
PSU Tester.
EVGA Super Nova 850GS
2 RADS.
Pump.
Pump top + Res
Paracord.
Fittings, adapter.
some tools.
A Cpu waterblock i bought for the wife's rig back last black friday off ek.
my air pressure tester.
Screws
Cutting Matt
Sennheiser HD558
TIM cleaning Kit.
Temp sensors.
Mayhem Coolants.

I've been purchasing stuff and sending to a friend who collected them and shipped in in USPS' flat rate box. i've started planning for this upgrades back in October. and i've been hunting deals since. Due to financial limitations i couldn't purchase everything once.

So have a look at my build log and Stay Tuned


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> are you guys kidding me or srsly should I send it back? :O
> 
> PLS ANSWERE!
> 
> dude what in hell "10pack" what the ....WHAT HAHAHAHAAHHAAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH
> 
> http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=10%20Pack


My Eyes.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> are you guys kidding me or srsly should I send it back? :O
> 
> PLS ANSWERE!
> 
> dude what in hell "10pack" what the ....WHAT HAHAHAHAAHHAAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH
> 
> http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=10%20Pack
> 
> 
> 
> Wait. What? Why am I looking at 10 packs of underwear?
Click to expand...

Cuz they're watercooled. And we're nothing if not curious as to how well they cool our man junk.









~Ceadder


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Silicone didn't work. Leak after 10hours of Test.
> 
> Ordered the 10 Pack on Amazon. 3- 5 day shipping. No Overnight..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah.. It was worth a shot.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Figured I would report.


Tell me why should it leak? Did you use it? I can´t find any MB cooler´s for ASUS Sabertooth X79.
What would you recommend me?

Pls answere!


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Cuz they're watercooled. And we're nothing if not curious as to how well they cool our man junk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Okay cars is one thing, but if we go 5 pages off topic on underwear I'm out. Whats happening...


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Okay cars is one thing, but if we go 5 pages off topic on underwear I'm out. Whats happening...


relaxe, it was TheCautiousOne comment and now we are back to topic


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Considering both tube routes would be running in opposite directions, I'm thinking these....


Guess you answered your own question


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Cuz they're watercooled. And we're nothing if not curious as to how well they cool our man junk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Which is relevant to me right now as it is 32C at my computer right now. Yes, I converted from Fahrenheit (approx 91F). Ambient is 32C, idle is 38C, under full [email protected] load my temps go to 52C. My one watercooled 650ti stayed around 43C. The air cooled one (yeah, I will get around to it soon) was also around 53C.

There, related it to water cooling.


----------



## VSG

Rad #1 for the TX10 build finally chosen from the collection here and ready (aside from them screws- thanks for the mix up, eBay seller!) for drop in:



















HWLabs Nemesis 560GTX with Blacknoise NB-Blacksilent Pro PK-3 fans in push-pull.


----------



## mus1mus

You guys remember or have anything to say about Laing D4-4s?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## taowulf

Like this?

http://www.overclock.net/t/418181/blast-from-the-past-laing-d4-vs-the-d5-basic/0_30


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Like this?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/418181/blast-from-the-past-laing-d4-vs-the-d5-basic/0_30


Niceeeeee +1


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sure, why not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I found a place I can mount my ssd, so I'll be down for a few days and be joining you in the "waiting room" *for our babies to be delivered*


Now we are talking. Cables, O Rings, and... Yea!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> are you guys kidding me or srsly should I send it back? :O
> 
> PLS ANSWERE!
> 
> dude what in hell "10pack" what the ....WHAT HAHAHAHAAHHAAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH
> 
> http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=10%20Pack


A 10 Pack of Orings!

Have been ordered. I needed to replace the one I pinched for the Mosfet Block (EK RVE)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Tell me why should it leak? Did you use it? I can´t find any MB cooler´s for ASUS Sabertooth X79.
> What would you recommend me?
> 
> Pls answere!


I used the Silicone and after about 6 hours I suppose, It started to gather water on a napkin I had under the mosfet. So It was surely leaking.









Here is a Document of All EK O rings for all blocks made.

The Cautious One

Hope this helps.









( And No... I am not Buying 10 Pairs of Underwear)


----------



## nismoskyline

Finished my raven aside from 1 more hard drive I want to get












pretty happy with how it turned out


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Finished my raven aside from 1 more hard drive I want to get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pretty happy with how it turned out


Looks very nice and very clean!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sure, why not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I found a place I can mount my ssd, so I'll be down for a few days and be joining you in the "waiting room" *for our babies to be delivered*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are talking. Cables, O Rings, and... Yea!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> are you guys kidding me or srsly should I send it back? :O
> 
> PLS ANSWERE!
> 
> dude what in hell "10pack" what the ....WHAT HAHAHAHAAHHAAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH
> 
> http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=10%20Pack
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A 10 Pack of Orings!
> 
> Have been ordered. I needed to replace the one I pinched for the Mosfet Block (EK RVE)
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Tell me why should it leak? Did you use it? I can´t find any MB cooler´s for ASUS Sabertooth X79.
> What would you recommend me?
> 
> Pls answere!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I used the Silicone and after about 6 hours I suppose, It started to gather water on a napkin I had under the mosfet. So It was surely leaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a Document of All EK O rings for all blocks made.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *( And No... I am not Buying 10 Pairs of Underwear)*
Click to expand...

That thing keeps springin' leaks, and you just might go thru a whole 10 pack . . .









D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That thing keeps springin' leaks, and you just might go thru a whole 10 pack . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Ain't that the Truth.









TCO


----------



## wermad




----------



## Deeptek




----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm definitely a fan! Great job!


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*


Build looks nice! Great work!


----------



## Pheozero

Quick cross post from the EK club because I need a answer pretty quickly









So quick question, I was changing the insert for my Supremacy EVO and can't remember which direction the base is supposed to be at. Someone mind giving a hand? Horizontal? Vertical?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Quick cross post from the EK club because I need a answer pretty quickly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So quick question, I was changing the insert for my Supremacy EVO and can't remember which direction the base is supposed to be at. Someone mind giving a hand? Horizontal? Vertical?


are you talking about the jet plate? This might help (scroll down for pictures):

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/27/ek-supremacy-evo/


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> are you talking about the jet plate? This might help (scroll down for pictures):
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/27/ek-supremacy-evo/


Yeah I meant the jet plate. I put it horizontally after taking a close look at how it was shown in the instruction manual. I probably still messed it up lol


----------



## cgull

If I recall correctly the orientation depends on the cpu socket type, ie x79, 1150 , amd etc.. have to consult the instructions for your cpu..


----------



## electro2u

Jet plate orientation would always be the same I think.


----------



## superericla

The jet plate should definitely be oriented the same direction, regardless of what CPU you're using. It may help to use a different jet plate (if there are multiple), or orient the block differently depending on the orientation of the cores in the CPU, but the jet plate should ALWAYS be oriented the same direction. Turning the jet plate can have a very serious negative impact on performance, as it's designed to push water through the channels and turning it would inhibit flow through most, if not all of the channels in the block.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Look what arrived today


----------



## erso44

@TCO

So you're trying to tell me that silicon o rings don't leak?
but aren't alphas delivered Orings of Silicon?
You're confusing me right know


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The jet plate should definitely be oriented the same direction, regardless of what CPU you're using. It may help to use a different jet plate (if there are multiple), or orient the block differently depending on the orientation of the cores in the CPU, but the jet plate should ALWAYS be oriented the same direction. Turning the jet plate can have a very serious negative impact on performance, as it's designed to push water through the channels and turning it would inhibit flow through most, if not all of the channels in the block.


Agreed with that. I had the GTZ appogee water block back before my EK Supreme HF. That one had a jet plate inside it with 2 long slits. The flow was very restricted. I took the jet plate out and milled out the center bar between the 2 slits so there was one long WIDE ob-round slot after the work I did and my god did that change the performance of the whole custom loop. I also had my 3 Gtx 480's in Tri Sli at that time, all on just 1 quad Feser 480mm rad (about 60mm thick) . The flow (even with MCP655 at 100%) was pretty slow because of the cpu block before tuning it. The water coming out of the Tri Sli 480's was pretty warm going into the rad since the cards had way more time to heat the water up. After the jet plate was tuned, the temps on my cpu dropped about 15c and the gpu's dropped down to 35/36/37 from around 46/49/53 . Once that water was moving a lot faster it wasn't coming out of the last gpu so hot and then the 480mm rad was able to cool the water right back down to ambient pretty well with just push fans.

It was a huge improvement. I have always benefited from faster, less restrictive custom loops than having a slow flow setup. Some have told me a slow flow setup is way better so the water can be cooled more in the rad and that does make sense, but from my testing, it was SO NIGHT AND DAY having a high flow loop. Just wouldn't let the water have time to heat up and need to be cooled as much. Maybe this ramble will help someone









I am really thinking about ordering a new res for my MCP655 so I can turn it into a Pump/Res combo and then I will love it. I can't stand the stock top on that pump with the big plastic 1/2 barbs that are a PITA to get tubing over. With that pump I always just used 7/16" ID tube and no hose clamps at all. Made it look nice and clean. Now I just use 3/8" ID / 5/8" OD compression fittings throughout. I'm running a EK 2.2 pump/res combo with a 2nd pump, the Phobya DC12-260 in my loop now and the whole setup is running very well. The water going into my Titan X is only 1c different at most than the water coming out of it, and same with the cpu. I'm not sure if I would get better performance going to my MCP655 with a way higher flow or not. My flow isn't that slow now, but it's not anywhere near what that other pump will do.

Any thoughts on that?


----------



## Yianni89

@DiamondCooling are almost done with the custom reservoir for The Marathon,just needs finishing







excited!

before it went on to the mill



and after it came off the mill


----------



## Hambone07si

@ Yianni89, that's pretty dope! I'm a CNC programmer for CNC Mills. I can do anything just like that as well for myself if I get creative enough. I've made some pretty cool stuff, but never a res like that, and that one looks pretty big. What's the overall dimensions on that res?? Looks really good tho


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> @ Yianni89, that's pretty dope! I'm a CNC programmer for CNC Mills. I can do anything just like that as well for myself if I get creative enough. I've made some pretty cool stuff, but never a res like that, and that one looks pretty big. What's the overall dimensions on that res?? Looks really good tho


Thanks man, credit is to Diamond Cooling for how good it looks. basically its going to run the inside clear height of my H440 so something like 420mm tall, 130mm wide and 30mm deep... something like that, the drawings are all at home so i can double check, but yea its pretty sizable. once it arrives i can tell you how much liquid it holds so at least there is some form of comparison to draw with other reservoirs.

i also had an idea after seeing that for a double/tripple/quadrupple chamber, a bit like multi-reservoir loops, but just split a single block, mill out isolated chambers in it and each chamber fills up with its own isolated liquid, i think that would be mad as a next project, especially now that i know how it looks and works. i think it would also look pretty cool as a main feature inside the case as your in/out ports would be separate for each chamber.... you could easily do like a deap sea theme with this giant octopus quad-chamber reservoir throwing out multi-coloured inks into all the components....

but then again.... i might be high


----------



## wRRM

Bought myself a Corsair Carbide Air 540 because i managed to spill a glass of coke on my old 650D.

This is the result:


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> Thanks man, credit is to Diamond Cooling for how good it looks. basically its going to run the inside clear height of my H440 so something like 420mm tall, 130mm wide and 30mm deep... something like that, the drawings are all at home so i can double check, but yea its pretty sizable. once it arrives i can tell you how much liquid it holds so at least there is some form of comparison to draw with other reservoirs.
> 
> i also had an idea after seeing that for a double/tripple/quadrupple chamber, a bit like multi-reservoir loops, but just split a single block, mill out isolated chambers in it and each chamber fills up with its own isolated liquid, i think that would be mad as a next project, especially now that i know how it looks and works. i think it would also look pretty cool as a main feature inside the case as your in/out ports would be separate for each chamber.... you could easily do like a deap sea theme with this giant octopus quad-chamber reservoir throwing out multi-coloured inks into all the components....
> 
> but then again.... i might be high


HAHAHAHA, being high is how some get VERY creative. I'm not saying how I come up with ideas







. LOL. yeah, multi chambered would be sick man. That would definitely be a sweet thing to have going on. I like it a lot








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wRRM*
> 
> Bought myself a Corsair Carbide Air 540 because i managed to spill a glass of coke on my old 650D.
> 
> This is the result:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


HA, looks somewhat like mine even with the red tubing. I've posted pics and don't want to flood the thread with more, but a quick look in my profile shows you right when you go in









Ah, what the hell, I didn't post this pic yet and this is probably my favorite one in high res.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The jet plate should definitely be oriented the same direction, regardless of what CPU you're using. It may help to use a different jet plate (if there are multiple), or orient the block differently depending on the orientation of the cores in the CPU, but the jet plate should ALWAYS be oriented the same direction. Turning the jet plate can have a very serious negative impact on performance, as it's designed to push water through the channels and turning it would inhibit flow through most, if not all of the channels in the block.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed with that. I had the GTZ appogee water block back before my EK Supreme HF. That one had a jet plate inside it with 2 long slits. The flow was very restricted. I took the jet plate out and milled out the center bar between the 2 slits so there was one long WIDE ob-round slot after the work I did and my god did that change the performance of the whole custom loop. I also had my 3 Gtx 480's in Tri Sli at that time, all on just 1 quad Feser 480mm rad (about 60mm thick) . The flow (even with MCP655 at 100%) was pretty slow because of the cpu block before tuning it. The water coming out of the Tri Sli 480's was pretty warm going into the rad since the cards had way more time to heat the water up. After the jet plate was tuned, the temps on my cpu dropped about 15c and the gpu's dropped down to 35/36/37 from around 46/49/53 . Once that water was moving a lot faster it wasn't coming out of the last gpu so hot and then the 480mm rad was able to cool the water right back down to ambient pretty well with just push fans.
> 
> It was a huge improvement. I have always benefited from faster, less restrictive custom loops than having a slow flow setup. Some have told me a slow flow setup is way better so the water can be cooled more in the rad and that does make sense, but from my testing, it was SO NIGHT AND DAY having a high flow loop. Just wouldn't let the water have time to heat up and need to be cooled as much. Maybe this ramble will help someone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am really thinking about ordering a new res for my MCP655 so I can turn it into a Pump/Res combo and then I will love it. I can't stand the stock top on that pump with the big plastic 1/2 barbs that are a PITA to get tubing over. With that pump I always just used 7/16" ID tube and no hose clamps at all. Made it look nice and clean. Now I just use 3/8" ID / 5/8" OD compression fittings throughout. I'm running a EK 2.2 pump/res combo with a 2nd pump, the Phobya DC12-260 in my loop now and the whole setup is running very well. The water going into my Titan X is only 1c different at most than the water coming out of it, and same with the cpu. I'm not sure if I would get better performance going to my MCP655 with a way higher flow or not. My flow isn't that slow now, but it's not anywhere near what that other pump will do.
> 
> Any thoughts on that?
Click to expand...

A few little tidbits of physics info to keep in mind when thinking about that slow flow keeps the coolant in the rad longer silliness, and cooling concepts in general, is that the amount of time the coolant spends in the rad is the same as the percentage of coolant capacity of the rad divided by the capacity of the whole loop.

Once the flowrate is high enough that the coolant thru the rad tubes remains turbulent, (as opposed to laminar) there's a wide span of flowrate range that will have no real bearing on temp delta.

Empirical data puts the threshold at about 0.6 gpm to 0.7 gpm to insure turbulent flow in normal flat tube rads

If the whole loop holds 1 liter, and the rad itself holds 0.5 L, then overall, the coolant spends 50% of it's time in the rad.

Given a 1gpm flow rate, it takes 264 watts to raise the coolant temp 1C

Starting up from ambient, with a constant heatload, the block to coolant transfer is maximally efficient, as it' at its greatest delta

At the same time the coolant to rad transfer is minimally efficient, as it's at its lowest delta

The concept of equilibrium refers to the point at which the coolant reaches a temperature where it picks up exactly as much heat from the blocks as it sheds in the rad and so the inlet/outlet deltas of the blocks and rad are equal. . . . . not that all the coolant in the whole loop is the same temp.

Ain't science fun . . . .

Darlene


----------



## Jakusonfire

But, But, But, .... Mayhems rads are designed with a quad pass flow system because it "allows the coolant to remain in the system for a longer period"

There must be some high level Physacks involved cause I can't follow how a rad with the same volume manages to do that. If the rad holds half a litre and the flow rate is 4LPM then the coolant should be changed 8 times a minute no matter how it flows.

If a manufacturer says it, .... well then it just must be true though. One day I'll gets it.

Maybe I can corner the rad market with a new design that uses 1 micron tubes. Now that will really hold the coolant longer, and It'll come out at ambient temp cause flow rate is so low. Can't beat that.

If only we could somehow combine its forces with a Monsta beating 'Supa Dupa Monsta'. A 500mm thick rad. If the 86mm Monsta "at 1200rpm a Monsta radiator is performing almost as well as a 60mm thick radiator with one fan more, at the same fan speed!" Then maybe the Supa Dupa will perform as well as 2 or 3 sizes up.


----------



## Hambone07si

That seems strange to me. I've built a TON of water loops for a LOT of people. I have always found that the faster the water flows through the whole loop, the better the overall performance is. With a slow flow pump as in a AIO, the water coming out of those blocks is VERY hot, the rads are very hot. A high flow pump on a non restrictive block with the same size rad as the AIO performs way better and the water never heats like that. I may not be reading your words right. You really didn't make that something easy to understand vs trying to sound so scientific about it lol. Sorry. I use logic when I build things. There's always some logical reason why I do something the way I did


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> But, But, But, .... Mayhems rads are designed with a quad pass flow system because it "allows the coolant to remain in the system for a longer period"
> 
> There must be some high level Physacks involved cause I can't follow how a rad with the same volume manages to do that. If the rad holds half a litre and the flow rate is 4LPM then the coolant should be changed 8 times a minute no matter how it flows.
> 
> If a manufacturer says it, .... well then it just must be true though. One day I'll gets it.
> 
> Maybe I can corner the rad market with a new design that uses 1 micron tubes. Now that will really hold the coolant longer, and It'll come out at ambient temp cause flow rate is so low. Can't beat that.
> 
> If only we could somehow combine its forces with a Monsta beating 'Supa Dupa Monsta'. A 500mm thick rad. If the 86mm Monsta "at 1200rpm a Monsta radiator is performing almost as well as a 60mm thick radiator with one fan more, at the same fan speed!" Then maybe the Supa Dupa will perform as well as 2 or 3 sizes up.


This.....

Loooooool!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> That seems strange to me. I've built a TON of water loops for a LOT of people. I have always found that the faster the water flows through the whole loop, the better the overall performance is. With a slow flow pump as in a AIO, the water coming out of those blocks is VERY hot, the rads are very hot. A high flow pump on a non restrictive block with the same size rad as the AIO performs way better and the water never heats like that. I may not be reading your words right. You really didn't make that something easy to understand vs trying to sound so scientific about it lol. Sorry. I use logic when I build things. There's always some logical reason why I do something the way I did


Actually, most AIOs do an amazing job, considering the small pumps and thin rads.

With a lower flow rate in an AIO, lets say half for example, then it only takes 132W to heat the water by 1C, so it's perfectly understandable why they feel warmer, all else being equal.

Now with the coolant being warmer, that gives a higher delta t at the rad, so the thermal exchange is more efficient there.

The difference in thermal transfer with the coolant at 45C as opposed to the coolant at 35C with an ambient of 25C is much greater.

The thermal transfer at the block with the coolant at 45C versus 35C isn't that much worse.

The idea that a custom loop with a stronger pump but same rad as an aio is going to be vastly superior isn't justified.

If that were true, then all an aio manufacturer would have to do is beef up their pump significantly and blow away all the competition . . . . and you don't see that anywhere.

For a compact, cost effective package, aio's are more efficient than big custom loops . . . the coolant spends over 90% of the time in the rad.

D.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A few little tidbits of physics info to keep in mind when thinking about that slow flow keeps the coolant in the rad longer silliness, and cooling concepts in general, is that the amount of time the coolant spends in the rad is the same as the percentage of coolant capacity of the rad divided by the capacity of the whole loop.
> 
> Once the flowrate is high enough that the coolant thru the rad tubes remains turbulent, (as opposed to laminar) there's a wide span of flowrate range that will have no real bearing on temp delta.
> 
> Empirical data puts the threshold at about 0.6 gpm to 0.7 gpm to insure turbulent flow in normal flat tube rads
> 
> If the whole loop holds 1 liter, and the rad itself holds 0.5 L, then overall, the coolant spends 50% of it's time in the rad.
> 
> Given a 1gpm flow rate, it takes 264 watts to raise the coolant temp 1C
> 
> Starting up from ambient, with a constant heatload, the block to coolant transfer is maximally efficient, as it' at its greatest delta
> 
> At the same time the coolant to rad transfer is minimally efficient, as it's at its lowest delta
> 
> The concept of equilibrium refers to the point at which the coolant reaches a temperature where it picks up exactly as much heat from the blocks as it sheds in the rad and so the inlet/outlet deltas of the blocks and rad are equal. . . . . not that all the coolant in the whole loop is the same temp.
> 
> Ain't science fun . . . .
> 
> Darlene


Can you dumb it down for me, plz. Lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A few little tidbits of physics info to keep in mind when thinking about that slow flow keeps the coolant in the rad longer silliness, and cooling concepts in general, is that the amount of time the coolant spends in the rad is the same as the percentage of coolant capacity of the rad divided by the capacity of the whole loop.
> 
> Once the flowrate is high enough that the coolant thru the rad tubes remains turbulent, (as opposed to laminar) there's a wide span of flowrate range that will have no real bearing on temp delta.
> 
> Empirical data puts the threshold at about 0.6 gpm to 0.7 gpm to insure turbulent flow in normal flat tube rads
> 
> If the whole loop holds 1 liter, and the rad itself holds 0.5 L, then overall, the coolant spends 50% of it's time in the rad.
> 
> Given a 1gpm flow rate, it takes 264 watts to raise the coolant temp 1C
> 
> Starting up from ambient, with a constant heatload, the block to coolant transfer is maximally efficient, as it' at its greatest delta
> 
> At the same time the coolant to rad transfer is minimally efficient, as it's at its lowest delta
> 
> The concept of equilibrium refers to the point at which the coolant reaches a temperature where it picks up exactly as much heat from the blocks as it sheds in the rad and so the inlet/outlet deltas of the blocks and rad are equal. . . . . not that all the coolant in the whole loop is the same temp.
> 
> Ain't science fun . . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Can you dumb it down for me, plz. Lol
Click to expand...

At least I didn't derive the quantum oscillator







:
.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> At least I didn't derive the quantum oscillator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> .


As an engineer I HATED mathematics.. specially Calculus.


----------



## Hambone07si

So when I had my 3 AiO's in my system a few weeks ago, the H110 on the cpu, and a H55 on each 780ti, The cpu was ok with the H110. As for the H55's on the 780ti's. With the stock fan on that H55 running at 100% while gaming, the rad was at 58c on the side of it shooting with my temp gun and my gpu's were running that hot as well. Ambient temps were 69f (20.5c) , so that's a 28c delta.

With changing the fans out to push pull and different fans, I was able to get that 58c down to 45c on both 780ti's with the rads showing 44/45c shooting in the same spot as before with the temp gun. The water was very warm in those.

Took them off and put custom loop in with water blocks on the 780ti's and then my water temps and rads shooting them where ever really with the same ambient temps now only showed 22-24c and never got any warmer no matter how long I was gaming or benching. Mostly playing some GTA V running my cards both at 90-99% on my Asus Swift G-sync with it set to 144hz so the cards were working pretty hard to stay at 110-144fps.

This custom loop now on 2 780ti's and also on my cpu that was still clocked the same as before (now it's being raised as of last night) 4.6ghz on 4790k and 1.275v (1.225v is stable tho) my load temps on the cpu with the H110 was 75-82c running prime95 or OCCT stress tests. Custom loop brought that down to 66c with the same exact settings. Far superior than the AIO in both aspects.

As for my water temps staying at only 22-24c now for a few hours of gaming, that didn't raise my ambient temps in the room at all, The AIO's did blowing out the 44/45c -58c temps from the rads the whole time. The AIO's couldn't come close to the same performance in any part of all that testing, even tho they were keeping my 780ti's at a max load of 45c with the other fans in push pull on both H55's.

I take it from what you said that the AIO's should of been performing just as good as the custom loop right? There was water in those rads longer than in my rads of the custom loop lol.

Trust me, I'm not trying to argue with ya at all, just conversating with ya







. I have yet to understand whether you are agreeing with me that higher flow is better or worst in a custom loop lol. I have seen WAY BETTER in a lot of different loops, and just from the easy custom mod to the cpu block I did that changed the temps dramatically through out the whole system was amazing. That alone made that 480mm rad go from not working well at all for the cpu and 3 480's, to working amazing and keeping everything nice and cool all day long. Maybe others have seen different results because I've never agreed with slower flow keeping water in the rads longer was any type of better solution. That I just can't agree with LOL .


----------



## LandonAaron

Hey guys now that I am basically through with my build I want to share it with you guys:

The loop consists of a Monsoon Series 2 D5 Dual Bay Res with a Swiftech MCP655 feeding a Swiftech MCP50x in series which then goes to the EK EVO Supremacy CPU block > EK M7G Mosfet Block > MO-RA3 420 > XSPC EX 420mm rad > 2x EK FC-290 blocks in parallel > Alphacool UT45 240mm rad > res.

Here is the money shot so to speak:



The red racing stripes are just red painters tape. Cheap and effective decor. Also featured are a bunch of case stickers and badges. I am debating pulling these.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



And here you can kind of see the D5 feeding the MCP655 by way a dual rotary 90 degree fitting, and some electrical tape mess I need to clean up on my LED's.



And here is the XSPC EX 420 rad mounted with the Koolance Bracket. The Red fans are Bgears 140mm Blasters with a max RPM of 2200. The black fans are XSPC 140's with max RPM of 1440. The BGears are on a fan controller and the XSPC are on a 3 way splitter connected to motherboard chassis fan. Both sets can be completely stopped, or set to lower RPM.


Here are my Quick Disconnets for the MO-RA3 which is mounted to the rear side panel. The Quick disconnects make it so that I don't have to completely drain the MO-RA3 when servicing the loop. It holds nearly 1.5L. Also this allows me to remove the side panel when I need to mess with the wires beneath.



Here is the hole I cut in the side panel to run the fan cables for the MO-RA3. I put a grommet in there to help protect the cables. One of the fan cables doesn't quite reach through the hole, so I am going to need to solder some wire on it to give it some more length.



Here is the MO-RA3 in action. Fitted with 9 Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm fans. 1500 RPM. These are very quite fans with some pretty aggressive styling.



Here is the front of the case. Notice all the little knobs on the sides. These are my fan controllers. These are the fan controllers I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-Computer-Case-CPU-HDD-4-Channel-Fan-LED-Speed-Controller-Control-Cooling-/171556340828?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f18e045c. Very cheap at only $8 a pop. Though I had to make extensive modifications to make them fit. Basically removed the PCB board, put liquid electrical tape over the blue LED's, cut the black covers out of their original housing, and drilled some holes in the covers for the knobs then wedged the whole thing in those little gaps on the side of the case and rand the wires around the front intake fans.

The two on the left and the one on the bottom right have their top 3 channels connected to the MO-RA3's 9 fans, and the bottom channel of each is connected to the Red fans on the XSPC 420 rad. Also all three of these controllers are connected to push button toggle switch, so that power can be cut to all of these fans completley. The Top right controller is always on, and controls the fan on the backside of the motherboard tray blowing across the VRM's mounting plate heatsinks, and the small radio shack fan in the PCI slots, which is left over from when my cards where air cooled and needs to be removed.



Here is the push button toggle switch which can cut power to all of the MO-RA3 fans, the push fans on the XSPC Rad, the top 200mm exhaust fan, and the D5 pump. I basically keep all of that turned off for silence unless I am gaming. Leaving just the MCP350x running at low speed via PWM through the CPU header, and just one set of fans running on the XSPC 420 rad, and 240 alphacool rad for regular non gaming non benchmark use.

These toggle switches can be purchased in a variety of color and sizes for cheap on Ebay. Depending on how you wire them the light can be always on or turn on and off with the on and off position. I wired it to a male and female molex plug so that I can stack many devices onto it down stream from the PSU and anything after the switch will be controlled by it.

I cut this hole, and the grommeted hole in the side panel with a dremmel and the dremmel's circle cutting attachment. The bit isn't really made for cutting metal, but on thin metal like this it works well enough. Unfortunately I didnt' have it tightened down enough and it came loose and started to cut outside of the circle when doing this hole, as you can see in the pic.



And here is my computer while working on it. I thought this poker table was going to buckle under the weight.



This is all housed in an Antec 1100 which was never intended for watercooling. The only real spot to mount a rad is for a 120mm rad in the rear exhaust. Its kind of a small case and a bit of a challenge to work with, but I am really happy with how it all came together. The only mod not mentioned already is replacing the side window with a single piece window with no fan mounts. The orginal window has two 120mm fan mounts in the side of it. Maybe I should have just got a new case when I went to watercooling, but the challenge of this case has made it kind of fun, and I don't mind external rads at all. It gives it a more aggressive appearance in my opinion.

Thanks for checking it out. Suggestions and comments welcome!


----------



## derickwm

What do you think?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


They look better than that black frame/grey blade look, for sure.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?












What's it going to take to get some of those white ones for Sweet Leilani?







You can have my dog. I love my dog but you can have him. Straight up trade.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


Misa like it







Now you can just switch the blades between them and you have two more new models (white frame and black blades and black frame with white blades)









they will look good, something like this:


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> As an engineer I HATED mathematics.. specially Calculus.


Out of curiosity, why would you become an engineer if you hate math, it's a lot of math..

Also, anyone know of the best waterblock I can use for LGA 771?
For this board:
http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon1333/5100/X7DCA-L.cfm
From what I've looked up the raystorm seems like my best bet but I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions


----------



## Jakusonfire

Damn it, that's what I get for early adopting. Grey blades and rainbow wiring. Just bought a few more this week too.

What makes the F4 ER range models extended range? Is their PWM response different?

That reminds me, the PWM response curves of each model would be great to have on the product page of each Vardar model. I couldn't find the min speed of the fans before I bought them.

White model looks good. They are starting to look more like a premium fan now.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> So when I had my 3 AiO's in my system a few weeks ago, the H110 on the cpu, and a H55 on each 780ti, The cpu was ok with the H110. As for the H55's on the 780ti's. With the stock fan on that H55 running at 100% while gaming, the rad was at 58c on the side of it shooting with my temp gun and my gpu's were running that hot as well. Ambient temps were 69f (20.5c) , so that's a 28c delta.
> 
> With changing the fans out to push pull and different fans, I was able to get that 58c down to 45c on both 780ti's with the rads showing 44/45c shooting in the same spot as before with the temp gun. The water was very warm in those.
> 
> Took them off and put custom loop in with water blocks on the 780ti's and then my water temps and rads shooting them where ever really with the same ambient temps now only showed 22-24c and never got any warmer no matter how long I was gaming or benching. Mostly playing some GTA V running my cards both at 90-99% on my Asus Swift G-sync with it set to 144hz so the cards were working pretty hard to stay at 110-144fps.
> 
> This custom loop now on 2 780ti's and also on my cpu that was still clocked the same as before (now it's being raised as of last night) 4.6ghz on 4790k and 1.275v (1.225v is stable tho) my load temps on the cpu with the H110 was 75-82c running prime95 or OCCT stress tests. Custom loop brought that down to 66c with the same exact settings. Far superior than the AIO in both aspects.
> 
> As for my water temps staying at only 22-24c now for a few hours of gaming, that didn't raise my ambient temps in the room at all, The AIO's did blowing out the 44/45c -58c temps from the rads the whole time. The AIO's couldn't come close to the same performance in any part of all that testing, even tho they were keeping my 780ti's at a max load of 45c with the other fans in push pull on both H55's.
> 
> I take it from what you said that the AIO's should of been performing just as good as the custom loop right? There was water in those rads longer than in my rads of the custom loop lol.
> 
> Trust me, I'm not trying to argue with ya at all, just conversating with ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have yet to understand whether you are agreeing with me that higher flow is better or worst in a custom loop lol. I have seen WAY BETTER in a lot of different loops, and just from the easy custom mod to the cpu block I did that changed the temps dramatically through out the whole system was amazing. That alone made that 480mm rad go from not working well at all for the cpu and 3 480's, to working amazing and keeping everything nice and cool all day long. Maybe others have seen different results because I've never agreed with slower flow keeping water in the rads longer was any type of better solution. That I just can't agree with LOL .


The reason your custom loop cools better is it has more rad space not because of more flow. Flow only helps the water be more turbulant and may help cool the components of your PC a little better, but it has no effect on the temperature of the water, because the water is still going to spend the same amount of time in the rads whether the flow is high or low. As far as ambient temps go, the custom loop should raise your ambient temps more than the AIO, because if it is working better it is dissipating more heat. More heat dissipated from the system means more heat in the room, means higher ambients. I don't think she is arguing with you that higher flow is worse just that flow isn't that important overall. More important is rad space. AIO are efficient because they dissipate alot of heat despite their small size.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Damn it, that's what I get for early adopting. Grey blades and rainbow wiring. Just bought a few more this week too.
> 
> What makes the F4 ER range models extended range? Is their PWM response different?
> 
> That reminds me, the PWM response curves of each model would be great to have on the product page of each Vardar model. I couldn't find the min speed of the fans before I bought them.
> 
> White model looks good. They are starting to look more like a premium fan now.


I think they were just tweaked since we're trying to keep the amount of SKUs to a minimum, or something...

I'll look into adding @geggeg's charts to the product pages. Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's it going to take to get some of those white ones for Sweet Leilani?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can have my dog. I love my dog but you can have him. Straight up trade.
Click to expand...

Depends on what kind of dog


----------



## snef




----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends on what kind of dog


This little guy:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


Nice bends.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nice bends.


^ I second that.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Depends on what kind of dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little guy:
Click to expand...

Done.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> So when I had my 3 AiO's in my system a few weeks ago, the H110 on the cpu, and a H55 on each 780ti, The cpu was ok with the H110. As for the H55's on the 780ti's. With the stock fan on that H55 running at 100% while gaming, the rad was at 58c on the side of it shooting with my temp gun and my gpu's were running that hot as well. Ambient temps were 69f (20.5c) , so that's a 28c delta.
> 
> With changing the fans out to push pull and different fans, I was able to get that 58c down to 45c on both 780ti's with the rads showing 44/45c shooting in the same spot as before with the temp gun. The water was very warm in those.
> 
> Took them off and put custom loop in with water blocks on the 780ti's and then my water temps and rads shooting them where ever really with the same ambient temps now only showed 22-24c and never got any warmer no matter how long I was gaming or benching. Mostly playing some GTA V running my cards both at 90-99% on my Asus Swift G-sync with it set to 144hz so the cards were working pretty hard to stay at 110-144fps.
> 
> This custom loop now on 2 780ti's and also on my cpu that was still clocked the same as before (now it's being raised as of last night) 4.6ghz on 4790k and 1.275v (1.225v is stable tho) my load temps on the cpu with the H110 was 75-82c running prime95 or OCCT stress tests. Custom loop brought that down to 66c with the same exact settings. Far superior than the AIO in both aspects.
> 
> As for my water temps staying at only 22-24c now for a few hours of gaming, that didn't raise my ambient temps in the room at all, The AIO's did blowing out the 44/45c -58c temps from the rads the whole time. The AIO's couldn't come close to the same performance in any part of all that testing, even tho they were keeping my 780ti's at a max load of 45c with the other fans in push pull on both H55's.
> 
> I take it from what you said that the AIO's should of been performing just as good as the custom loop right? There was water in those rads longer than in my rads of the custom loop lol.
> 
> Trust me, I'm not trying to argue with ya at all, just conversating with ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have yet to understand whether you are agreeing with me that higher flow is better or worst in a custom loop lol. I have seen WAY BETTER in a lot of different loops, and just from the easy custom mod to the cpu block I did that changed the temps dramatically through out the whole system was amazing. That alone made that 480mm rad go from not working well at all for the cpu and 3 480's, to working amazing and keeping everything nice and cool all day long. Maybe others have seen different results because I've never agreed with slower flow keeping water in the rads longer was any type of better solution. That I just can't agree with LOL .


Yeah, some of that is a good example of the difference between anecdotal results and careful testing. I have no doubt that you got better results with your custom loop but equally some of what you present seems to not make sense or was exaggerated somehow. (By the method used, not by you)

A 58C rad should mean higher GPU temps rather than the same. Under load core temps are always higher than coolant temps.
A custom loop rad being at essentially ambient temp (22-24C) would seem to indicate that the actual temp (fluid) is not being measured correctly. Especially if it doesn't change over time while gaming.

There is a difference between temperature and heat energy output. The small rads may have been at higher temps but they are effecting less air so the wattage ouput into the environment stays the same. Otherwise really good rads would be reducing how much energy the system consumed at the wall.

What exactly did you do to mod a CPU block that changed how well your radiators worked?

It sounds very similar to the the delidding threads where people were claiming 25C improvements where any careful testing shows much more conservative results.

Anyways, Diva was never suggesting that AIO's will always give the same end results as any giant custom loop. But if you for example look at Martins testing of the H100 VS a similar size custom block and loop they are really quite close.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Damn it, that's what I get for early adopting. Grey blades and rainbow wiring. Just bought a few more this week too.
> 
> What makes the F4 ER range models extended range? Is their PWM response different?
> 
> That reminds me, the PWM response curves of each model would be great to have on the product page of each Vardar model. I couldn't find the min speed of the fans before I bought them.
> 
> White model looks good. They are starting to look more like a premium fan now.


F4-120 sample I got went from 699 RPM at 15% to 2086 (advertised at 2200) RPM at 100% with the AQ6. The F4-120ER specs say 500-2200 RPM so the change is mostly on the lower side, and will now make even the F2-120 and F1-120 redundant


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> As an engineer I HATED mathematics.. specially Calculus.


HAHAHAHAHAAH I LAUGHED SO HARD OH SH HAHAHAHAHAHA

_______________

Here wo go:


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn Snef, that is some amazing pictures. The greeen POPS into your eyeballs. Love the build too.
Welcome to the Graphite Club


----------



## wermad

Would love to see some clear extruded square tube w/ a round hole in the middle ~11mm to tap some nice g1/4 threads. Then you'll have some squared pipe work. I'm sure angle adapters are in order as bending will surely be out of the question







.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Would love to see some clear extruded square tube w/ a round hole in the middle ~11mm to tap some nice g1/4 threads. Then you'll have some squared pipe work. I'm sure angle adapters are in order as bending will surely be out of the question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


lol I was just talking about this to a few guys last week to see if someone can make it for me. So far I have mostly "no" and a few "let me see".


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nice bends.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> ^ I second that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Damn Snef, that is some amazing pictures. The greeen POPS into your eyeballs. Love the build too.
> Welcome to the Graphite Club


Thanks guys , appreciate

i tried with all angle fittings and seriously, this setup is better with bend,

i like it, no tube over hardware, and minimum tubing, a lot cleaner, maybe because no waterblock on ram?


----------



## Ramzinho

i like this more than the vulture build snef.. seriously looks amazing .. well done.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks guys , appreciate
> 
> i tried with all angle fittings and seriously, this setup is better with bend,
> 
> i like it, no tube over hardware, and minimum tubing, a lot cleaner, maybe because no waterblock on ram?


I particularly like the symmetry around the cpu block and the anti-symmetry on the gpu block.







liquid will be green I suppose?


----------



## Alex132

At exactly 45% my pump makes this noise sometimes:




Never done this before...

I lifted it up from the case so it was suspended by my hand and the tubing and it still made that noise (off camera)


----------



## taowulf

Relevant to our interests -

http://www.iflscience.com/health-and-medicine/silver-turns-bacteria-killer-zombies
Quote:


> The effect on the bacterium Pseudomonas aeruginosa was dramatic. Previously healthy bacteria died en masse; when sufficient silver was applied, initially 99.999% of the bacteria were killed through this second-hand exposure. The authors argue that the result "strongly indicates that not only does silver persist within the dead cells, but that it is an available source for further biocidal activity on viable cells." Avnir and colleagues dubbed the process the "zombies effect."


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I was just talking about this to a few guys last week to see if someone can make it for me. So far I have mostly "no" and a few "let me see".


If you do find someone, I definitely would love to the see the results


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you do find someone, I definitely would love to the see the results


Yeah sure









Edit:
Quote:


> Performance-PCs.com and it staff would like to wish all our customers and their families a Happy upcoming Mothers Day!! Please enjoy a holiday discount off selected products on our website!
> 
> Tell Mom to enter during checkout:
> 
> Spend $50-$250, get 6% off: "MOTHER15-6"
> Spend Over $250, get 8% off: "MOTHER15-8"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from May 5th through May 10th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> At exactly 45% my pump makes this noise sometimes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never done this before...
> 
> I lifted it up from the case so it was suspended by my hand and the tubing and it still made that noise (off camera)


Don't sound good. Maybe not enough power? You using a variable, voltage controlled, or pwm d5 pump?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> At exactly 45% my pump makes this noise sometimes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never done this before...
> 
> I lifted it up from the case so it was suspended by my hand and the tubing and it still made that noise (off camera)
> 
> 
> 
> Don't sound good. Maybe not enough power? You using a variable, voltage controlled, or pwm d5 pump?
Click to expand...

PWM D5. Hence the 45%.

30% and below it's dead silent. 35-100% it vibrates more and more with nothing to stop it. Even in my old setup the vibrations at 100% would go through the tubing, through the radiator and through the case when it was suspended by tubing.


----------



## wermad

Do you have a flow sensor by any chance? Don't sound good. I would wait for someone who has a pwm d5 to compare.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> *PWM D5. Hence the 45%.*
> 
> 30% and below it's dead silent. 35-100% it vibrates more and more with nothing to stop it. Even in my old setup the vibrations at 100% would go through the tubing, through the radiator and through the case when it was suspended by tubing.


wermad asked because it could have been controlled by a fan/pump controller, meaning that it didn't necessarily have to be PWM.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> PWM D5. Hence the 45%.
> 
> 30% and below it's dead silent. 35-100% it vibrates more and more with nothing to stop it. Even in my old setup the vibrations at 100% would go through the tubing, through the radiator and through the case when it was suspended by tubing.


two things occur to me: Isn't the right low corner of the pump top hitting the case and causing this noise?



second, you might try to loose just a bit the screws holding the two parts of the d5 top on the back. We usually have a tendency to over tight those screws. if the top is too tight, it pushes down on the impeller and causes friction which would create noise and hinder flow.


----------



## wermad

He said he picked it up by hand and it does the same thing. So that eliminates any vibration via contact. My pwm ddc would do that when i dropped the voltage (







, yeah, I know, but I was messing around w/ some beta testing). Maybe the 12v feed is wrong. Though, I'm more inclined to try to loosen the top like you suggested. I didn't have that issue w/ my top (running variable @ #5). @Alex, use some paper towels in case of a small dribble if the top is loosened a bit for troubleshooting purposes.


----------



## Gabrielzm

True Wer I was judging by the video only and didn't notice the hand part...

for those about to pull the trigger on PPC

Tell Mom to enter during checkout:

Spend $50-$250, get 6% off: "MOTHER15-6"
Spend Over $250, get 8% off: "MOTHER15-8"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> @DiamondCooling are almost done with the custom reservoir for The Marathon,just needs finishing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> excited!
> 
> before it went on to the mill
> 
> 
> 
> and after it came off the mill


Wish I had a Mill so I could do work like that. It's really difficult to pin someone down to mill the parts I need. Went to McMaster-Carr to find the color sheet in the correct thickness and they simply don't carry clear red Acrylic in 8mm sheet stock. Also looked for white acrylic tubing and the white that I saw was not bendable. Time is gonna run out if I can't get this started by August. At least my heatsinks will be finished by time the November event rolls round.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do you have a flow sensor by any chance? Don't sound good. I would wait for someone who has a pwm d5 to compare.


I actually have my res mounted side-ways to accommodate my 295X2 (incoming from the world's slowest delivery service) - I can easily see the flow of the pump and it is present from 5->100%.

.gif when I just filled the loop and it wasn't 100% fill:




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> two things occur to me: Isn't the right low corner of the pump top hitting the case and causing this noise?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> second, you might try to loose just a bit the screws holding the two parts of the d5 top on the back. We usually have a tendency to over tight those screws. if the top is too tight, it pushes down on the impeller and causes friction which would create noise and hinder flow.


It may look like that, and that was my first assumption that it was resonating through the plastic - however to my surprise it was touching nothing but the base of the case floor.

And that sounds very probable, I did tighten them a lot because.. well.. I was scared of it leaking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> He said he picked it up by hand and it does the same thing. So that eliminates any vibration via contact. My pwm ddc would do that when i dropped the voltage (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , yeah, I know, but I was messing around w/ some beta testing). Maybe the 12v feed is wrong. Though, I'm more inclined to try to loosen the top like you suggested. I didn't have that issue w/ my top (running variable @ #5). @Alex, use some paper towels in case of a small dribble if the top is loosened a bit for troubleshooting purposes.


Eh, trouble is I'd have to re-do the entire loop because I can't get access to the back of the D5 where it is... so I'm tempted to leave it like this for now.

UPDATE-
I found a screw that I was missing wedged under the D5 foam mount bottom and my case








Noise seems to have stopped at 45% BUT it still vibrates a very large amount at that setting. 40% is fine, 50% is fine but 45% is a lot of vibration.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I actually have my res mounted side-ways to accommodate my 295X2 (incoming from the world's slowest delivery service) - I can easily see the flow of the pump and it is present from 5->100%.
> 
> .gif when I just filled the loop and it wasn't 100% fill:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may look like that, and that was my first assumption that it was resonating through the plastic - however to my surprise it was touching nothing but the base of the case floor.
> 
> And that sounds very probable, I did tighten them a lot because.. well.. I was scared of it leaking.
> Eh, trouble is I'd have to re-do the entire loop because I can't get access to the back of the D5 where it is... so I'm tempted to leave it like this for now.
> 
> UPDATE-
> I found a screw that I was missing wedged under the D5 foam mount bottom and my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noise seems to have stopped at 45% BUT it still vibrates a very large amount at that setting. 40% is fine, 50% is fine but 45% is a lot of vibration.

















Well sometimes the pump just vibrates a lot at a specific %. If that was all to it or at least took care of most of it great


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I actually have my res mounted side-ways to accommodate my 295X2 (incoming from the world's slowest delivery service) - I can easily see the flow of the pump and it is present from 5->100%.
> 
> .gif when I just filled the loop and it wasn't 100% fill:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may look like that, and that was my first assumption that it was resonating through the plastic - however to my surprise it was touching nothing but the base of the case floor.
> 
> And that sounds very probable, I did tighten them a lot because.. well.. I was scared of it leaking.
> Eh, trouble is I'd have to re-do the entire loop because I can't get access to the back of the D5 where it is... so I'm tempted to leave it like this for now.
> 
> UPDATE-
> I found a screw that I was missing wedged under the D5 foam mount bottom and my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noise seems to have stopped at 45% BUT it still vibrates a very large amount at that setting. 40% is fine, 50% is fine but 45% is a lot of vibration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well sometimes the pump just vibrates a lot at an specific %. If that was all to it or at least took care of most of it great
Click to expand...

Yeah do not wanna replace this pump - it's like $200 to do so locally.


----------



## wermad

Cool







. Its always a huge relief when its something super simple









Taking a few shots with my phone. i still need to work on my technique, me guess


----------



## Hambone07si

LOL. I couldn't put these fans down once I picked one up and opened the box. These fans just feel so much nicer then the rest, especially over the sickleflows. Ended up grabbing 5 of them and dame, almost $170









Going to put them to the test and see if they really do what they say they do on all the reviews and do it as quiet as they are supposed to. I'll be happy with them if so. Not really a big fan of the color scheme tho on these and that's why I've never even picked up the box. Just hoping I can get the same performance as the sickleflows give me but way quieter , some review showed like 20 degrees better performance that the sickleflow in the same test. That's crazy difference and not that was right because I've used them for a long time and they performed better then a ton of different fans I've seen and used over the days. Let's see what happens tho


----------



## LandonAaron

The nzxt h440 is fairly small and nice looking. No bay drives so the front is all open for a big rad and can put one in roof too. Also has a stealth bay for PSY. Not case I get will definitely have stealth PSU.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> LOL. I couldn't put these fans down once I picked one up and opened the box. These fans just feel so much nicer then the rest, especially over the sickleflows. Ended up grabbing 5 of them and dame, almost $170
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to put them to the test and see if they really do what they say they do on all the reviews and do it as quiet as they are supposed to. I'll be happy with them if so. Not really a big fan of the color scheme tho on these and that's why I've never even picked up the box. Just hoping I can get the same performance as the sickleflows give me but way quieter , some review showed like 20 degrees better performance that the sickleflow in the same test. That's crazy difference and not that was right because I've used them for a long time and they performed better then a ton of different fans I've seen and used over the days. Let's see what happens tho


That's alot of fans in the background


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Have you thought about a 20/30 mm extension for it? It would get the other monsoon fitting over the other fitting. You wouldn't even notice the extension looking straight at the block.


I still have the little extensions that came with my EK red, will give it a go tonight...

I may have found the solution, although it would require one more tiny bend



And tossing up whether to flip the block 180 so the inlet matches the height of my 240 outlet, GoogleFu seems to point there is no harm in doing so


----------



## 10speedr

I think i have the worlds first custom water-cooled Cooler Master N600. Its a great little mid tower case. Cpu temps over the old Corsair h105 about the same maybe 1-2 degree difference. My 290 on the other hand is about 30 degrees less.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> @TCO
> 
> So you're trying to tell me that silicon o rings don't leak?
> but aren't alphas delivered Orings of Silicon?
> You're confusing me right know


No I was applying Silicone on the O Rings. . The O Rings were not made of Silicone.

Sorry Everyone, Been at the Car shOw. Will be there until Sat. Waiting on the O Rings I ordered and PPC hasn't shipped my coolant yet..

The Cautious One (Becoming Impatient yet again)


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Cautious One *(Becoming Impatient yet again*)


Uh-oh, this won't end well.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> *No I was applying Silicone on the O Rings. . The O Rings were not made of Silicone.*
> 
> Sorry Everyone, Been at the Car shOw. Will be there until Sat. Waiting on the O Rings I ordered and PPC hasn't shipped my coolant yet..
> 
> The Cautious One (Becoming Impatient yet again)


ehhhhhhhhh









what ever I will leak test it and than we´ll see...


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No I was applying Silicone on the O Rings. . The O Rings were not made of Silicone.
> 
> Sorry Everyone, Been at the Car shOw. Will be there until Sat. Waiting on the O Rings I ordered and PPC hasn't shipped my coolant yet..
> 
> The Cautious One (Becoming Impatient yet again)


I love this guy. I'm serious. You're dedicated. I love your passion around this. Keep it up, man.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> That's alot of fans in the background


Yeah, I had 5 red led Sickleflows on my 2 rads, and I have 5 more new ones for running push/pull if I wanted. There's 6 blue led Sickleflows for my buddies build that I'm doing in the next couple days. I'm building him almost the same exact setup as I have. Only difference would be his having M 7 F (mine M 6 F), and he will have my old 780ti's in sli (me having new Titan X) . Building his into a 540 air as well with a 360mm front rad and 240mm top rad, but using a EK Xres 140 D5 pump/res combo in his loop and blue tubing and not red. Both have 4790K cpu's. Not sure if he wants me to overclock his like mine yet, or if he just wants it to run at stock 4ghz / 4.4ghz turbo. Not a huge difference from stock to 4.6ghz, but if I can get his at 4.8ghz then I would for sure. Mine doesn't like 4.8ghz with HT on unless it has 1.375v for rock stable. I really didn't want to run mine at that voltage for 24/7 even tho max temps are still under 80c. I like my 4.6ghz @ 66c with 1.275v (same as stock voltage at load). Will do 4.6ghz with only 1.225v tho. I like more stability tho personally.

Added in the new Noctua fans last night and got it all up and running and ran some tests last night for a bit. Those new fans are pretty amazing. Very quiet and getting the same performance of my Sickleflows but at way less noise. Guess I'll keep them in. Still not a big fan of the colors but you really don't see them much. I do kinda miss the red led look of the sickleflows through the front grill of my 540 air tho. O well I guess, not a big deal









Only running the Noctua's at 900rpm on all 5 and it's not even heard. Love that now.


----------



## XKaan

Glory soon my brothers!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Soon. .


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Yeah, I had 5 red led Sickleflows on my 2 rads, and I have 5 more new ones for running push/pull if I wanted. There's 6 blue led Sickleflows for my buddies build that I'm doing in the next couple days. I'm building him almost the same exact setup as I have. Only difference would be his having M 7 F (mine M 6 F), and he will have my old 780ti's in sli (me having new Titan X) . Building his into a 540 air as well with a 360mm front rad and 240mm top rad, but using a EK Xres 140 D5 pump/res combo in his loop and blue tubing and not red. Both have 4790K cpu's. Not sure if he wants me to overclock his like mine yet, or if he just wants it to run at stock 4ghz / 4.4ghz turbo. Not a huge difference from stock to 4.6ghz, but if I can get his at 4.8ghz then I would for sure. Mine doesn't like 4.8ghz with HT on unless it has 1.375v for rock stable. I really didn't want to run mine at that voltage for 24/7 even tho max temps are still under 80c. I like my 4.6ghz @ 66c with 1.275v (same as stock voltage at load). Will do 4.6ghz with only 1.225v tho. I like more stability tho personally.
> 
> Added in the new Noctua fans last night and got it all up and running and ran some tests last night for a bit. Those new fans are pretty amazing. Very quiet and getting the same performance of my Sickleflows but at way less noise. Guess I'll keep them in. Still not a big fan of the colors but you really don't see them much. I do kinda miss the red led look of the sickleflows through the front grill of my 540 air tho. O well I guess, not a big deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only running the Noctua's at 900rpm on all 5 and it's not even heard. Love that now.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That color........







......Why not the new ones?



I wouldn't mind the "leather" brown bumpers tbh


----------



## DarthBaggins

I prefer the Gray and blacks they recently released, but the black and brown mesh nicely really.


----------



## Coolzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That color........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ......Why not the new ones?
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mind the "leather" brown bumpers tbh


I reckon it would look good with a Sabertooth, Noctua CPU air cooler/nickel water block, and a general "desert camo" theme. Been thinking of doing this for my future-FreeNAS.


----------



## wermad

Copper would be better vs nickel block imho for that theme.


----------



## XKaan

Hey bros! Quick question since all fo us here have sleeved many a fan for rads...

Anyone know of any PWM splitters that are specifically designed for radiators? So it would be a 3 way splitter, but the 3 fan connections are spaced apart 120mm for easy connection to fans on radiators.

The only one I can find is made by Darkside, and the only vendor is Dazmode that has crazy shipping charges from Canada.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey bros! Quick question since all fo us here have sleeved many a fan for rads...
> 
> Anyone know of any PWM splitters that are specifically designed for radiators? So it would be a 3 way splitter, but the 3 fan connections are spaced apart 120mm for easy connection to fans on radiators.
> 
> The only one I can find is made by Darkside, and the only vendor is Dazmode that has crazy shipping charges from Canada.


There are a crapload of Phobya and ModMyToys fan splitter/headers on performance-pcs. Should be able to find on that will work for you.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> There are a crapload of Phobya and ModMyToys fan splitter/headers on performance-pcs. Should be able to find on that will work for you.


Thanks I'll look there..

I've made my own TOO MANY times in the past -


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey bros! Quick question since all fo us here have sleeved many a fan for rads...
> 
> Anyone know of any PWM splitters that are specifically designed for radiators? So it would be a 3 way splitter, but the 3 fan connections are spaced apart 120mm for easy connection to fans on radiators.
> 
> The only one I can find is made by Darkside, and the only vendor is Dazmode that has crazy shipping charges from Canada.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables?limit=90

I would go with the swiftech and be done. Or if only 3 fans use the ek.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Thanks I'll look there..
> 
> I've made my own TOO MANY times in the past -


Took me a bit, but i found the category I was thinking of for you.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/electrical-case-accessories


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey bros! Quick question since all fo us here have sleeved many a fan for rads...
> 
> Anyone know of any PWM splitters that are specifically designed for radiators? So it would be a 3 way splitter, but the 3 fan connections are spaced apart 120mm for easy connection to fans on radiators.
> 
> The only one I can find is made by Darkside, and the only vendor is Dazmode that has crazy shipping charges from Canada.


Are these going to be for Corsair PWM fans? I have seen several threads where people with corsair fans have had trouble with PWM working when using a splitter. I know for sure people had trouble with the Swiftech splitter on Corsair fans. Apparently they need a strong PWM signal to work.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey bros! Quick question since all fo us here have sleeved many a fan for rads...
> 
> Anyone know of any PWM splitters that are specifically designed for radiators? So it would be a 3 way splitter, but the 3 fan connections are spaced apart 120mm for easy connection to fans on radiators.
> 
> The only one I can find is made by Darkside, and the only vendor is Dazmode that has crazy shipping charges from Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> There are a crapload of *Phobya* and ModMyToys *fan splitter*/headers on performance-pcs. Should be able to find on that will work for you.
Click to expand...

No....
Just No.....


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No....
> Just No.....


Why?
Just why?


----------



## XKaan

Hey! Yeah they are for Corsair sp120's - I've made splitters for them in the past and always just made it so one fan had a signal wire, and it worked fine.

I think I'll just leave the fans cables as-is and use a hub so there's plenty of power.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No....
> Just No.....
> 
> 
> 
> Why?
> Just why?
Click to expand...

This can answered with a simple question.....

"How much do you like house fires?"


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This can answered with a simple question.....
> 
> "How much do you like house fires?"


I sorta missed the PWM part the first time around.


----------



## wermad

From IT DIVAS intuitive posts, Corsair pwm is limited to 8 fans max.


----------



## emsj86

Having trouble finding 2 pin and 4 pin pwm extensions any suggestions


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From IT DIVAS intuitive posts, Corsair pwm is limited to 8 fans max.


Yeah corsair fans have a different in house implementation of PWM







The 8 limit is something related to the Aquaero and even this not sure how it goes with the revised version of the Aquaero that include a minor change to take care of corsair fans...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This can answered with a simple question.....
> 
> "How much do you like house fires?"
> 
> 
> 
> I sorta missed the PWM part the first time around.
Click to expand...

This has nothing to do with PWM,more Phobya's inability to insulate properly....when I look up and see my SR2 ($8500) rig on fire because their cable shorted,they pretty much get the finger.

For them to turn around and say "how is our fault?" when they got an electrical engineers report stating it,that is just a finisher. Phobya can suck the entire bag of dick.....


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This has nothing to do with PWM,more Phobya's inability to insulate properly....when I look up and see my SR2 ($8500) rig on fire because their cable shorted,they pretty much get the finger.
> 
> For them to turn around and say "how is our fault?" when they got an electrical engineers report stating it,that is just a finisher. Phobya can suck the entire bag of dick.....


The ModMyToys look a lot like the Phobya product, would you happen to know if they are the same manufacturer just re-branded?

I've never used a Phobya product, I was unaware there were issues. I was out of the watercooling/moddign game for a few years. Damn recession.


----------



## DarthBaggins

make sure if you happen to order Phobya Splitters, that they include a bag of marshmellows cause something will be toasting when you use them


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This has nothing to do with PWM,more Phobya's inability to insulate properly....when I look up and see my SR2 ($8500) rig on fire because their cable shorted,they pretty much get the finger.
> 
> For them to turn around and say "how is our fault?" when they got an electrical engineers report stating it,that is just a finisher. Phobya can suck the entire bag of dick.....


LOLOL, you convinced me. I got a couple of these when I ordered my MO-RA3 from Aquatuning. I guess I need to find a replacement before my computer goes up in smoke.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah corsair fans have a different in house implementation of PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 8 limit is something related to the Aquaero and even this not sure how it goes with the revised version of the Aquaero that include a minor change to take care of corsair fans...


Cool beans









I'm itching to try pwm again, maybe w/ these:



Or these:



This will have to wait if I get another CL down the road. I like the SP's w/ voltage but I really wanna dive back into pwm. I never really gave it a good thrashing tbh









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> make sure if you happen to order Phobya Splitters, that they include a bag of marshmellows cause something will be toasting when you use them


GTX 480 did the same thing! lol


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, I'm planning to build some custom cables for the satas power, VGAs, etc. My PSU is a Corsair AX1200i my doubt it's about the right cable maybe 18AWG ? Also I want to get some of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/connectx-t-sata-female-punch-down-black.html#Details to mount the satas, what do you think?

Thanks.


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello guys, I'm planning to build some custom cables for the satas power, VGAs, etc. My PSU is a Corsair AX1200i my doubt it's about the right cable maybe 18AWG ? Also I want to get some of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/connectx-t-sata-female-punch-down-black.html#Details to mount the satas, what do you think?
> 
> Thanks.


Yup 18AWG, you can use 16 if you want your sleeves to be fuller and for the wires to hold their shape a bit better.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Yup 18AWG, you can use 16 if you want your sleeves to be fuller and for the wires to hold their shape a bit better.


For the Sleeving I'm using MDPC-x sleeves. 16 will be fine with it?


----------



## wermad

It's pretty thick and unless you're putting exteme power loads (ie record gpu runs), 18 will do fine as well while still being more manageable.

My gpu's are using 18awg without issues







. I prefer ribbon style cables but when I don't have these, I use some furryletters techflex clean-cut high density sleeve.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From IT DIVAS intuitive posts, Corsair pwm is limited to 8 fans max.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah corsair fans have a different in house implementation of PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 8 limit is something related to the Aquaero and even this not sure how it goes with the revised version of the Aquaero that include a minor change to take care of corsair fans...
Click to expand...

Yes, the 8 limit is for the Corsair PWM fans with the Aquaero 6.

The original release of the A6 maxed at 4 to 5, with maybe a few people who sort of managed 6.

AC made a resistor value change very quickly to better accommodate the Corsairs.

Unless you have one of the very, very, first A6's, you have the revised version.

Testing showed that the revised version could usually manage 10 of the Corsair fans pretty well, enough to be generally acceptable.

The 11th fan trashed the low speed control a lot and was just unacceptable.

I consider 8 as the target max. It lets you put a full push - pull 480 on a single channel, and have full control down to minimum speed.

Corsair made the fans to work with their own Corsair link, and not to the Intel PWM standard.

It's a little misleading on their part to market them as though they were PWM in the same way as you normally associate PWM for PCs with the Intel standard.

Darlene


----------



## Ramzinho

Where is @TheCautiousOne the anticipation for his rig building is killing me.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Where is @TheCautiousOne the anticipation for his rig building is killing me.


Isn't he still waiting on his O-rings? And there was something about a car show...must be one of those dealer tent sale deals.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Where is @TheCautiousOne the anticipation for his rig building is killing me.


I think he is preparing to the next attempt on filling the loop. He was spotted recently here:










just kidding TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think he is preparing to the next attempt on filling the loop. He was spotted recently here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just kidding TCO












Priceless!


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It's pretty thick and unless you're putting exteme power loads (ie record gpu runs), 18 will do fine as well while still being more manageable.
> 
> My gpu's are using 18awg without issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I prefer ribbon style cables but when I don't have these, I use some furryletters techflex clean-cut high density sleeve.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It's pretty thick and unless you're putting exteme power loads (ie record gpu runs), 18 will do fine as well while still being more manageable.
> 
> My gpu's are using 18awg without issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I prefer ribbon style cables but when I don't have these, I use some furryletters techflex clean-cut high density sleeve.


I'll be running 2 VGAs ( R9 280x , HD7970) , 7 HDs , 2 SSDs , Aquaero 6XT, 1 Optical Drive, Pump MPC 655. Do you think 18 would be fine or better go 16 ?


----------



## SebaGuerrero

Hey Laine,

I'm interested on the same machine. Did you manage to get your mod working? Can you share what you did? Would love to do the same.

Cheers


----------



## Ceadderman

@jeanspaulo...

Assuming your HDD array is simply for storage and not a mega RAID OS, 18 should be fine. Just remember you can go larger and not smaller when replacing power cables.

If you go smaller than 16 well I wouldn't take bets on how long your system lasts cuz I wouldn't want to have to pay out.









18 is a step larger so you should be fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> I think this sound alone would be enough without the screaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (at 3:30):
> 
> 
> 
> If i had enough money i would buy one of these for sure...


Best sounding car ever. Also you can find them cheap for about mid 300k spec B


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think he is preparing to the next attempt on filling the loop. He was spotted recently here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just kidding TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think he is preparing to the next attempt on filling the loop. He was spotted recently here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just kidding TCO
Click to expand...











~©eadde®


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> I'll be running 2 VGAs ( R9 280x , HD7970) , 7 HDs , 2 SSDs , Aquaero 6XT, 1 Optical Drive, Pump MPC 655. Do you think 18 would be fine or better go 16 ?


18awg is perfectly fine. I'm using that all around. Even my mb/cpu, I converted to an 18awg cable from the stock Lepa 16awg and I've had no issues. 295x2 pulls more power then your Tahit's and both of mine are on 18awg lepa vga cables. I wouldn't go 20awg on the gpu's though. Also, 16 would be much stiffer if you decide to double up cables per sleeve.



Spoiler: click


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 18awg is perfectly fine. I'm using that all around. Even my mb/cpu, I converted to an 18awg cable from the stock Lepa 16awg and I've had no issues. 295x2 pulls more power then your Tahit's and both of mine are on 18awg lepa vga cables. I wouldn't go 20awg on the gpu's though. Also, 16 would be much stiffer if you decide to double up cables per sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: click


I lost track of this pc...did you turn your picture or what...

WOW WOW wait...you´re the guy with 15358456455165 million fan´s ?


----------



## wermad

Thermaltake X9, horizontal mb layout:




stock TT pics:


----------



## erso44

Radiator overflow lol









You got two res do you got two separate channel's ? Or is that only astethics


----------



## Ceadderman

I wud go that TT route if I didn't have a toddler in the near future upcoming. Son will be here in ~1mo and in two years will be a trainwreck on floor items.









How did you cope through your toddler werm?









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah mines not crawling yet but I know it'll be very soon, lol he's at 6mo now. I'm not really worried about him around my M8 though


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wud go that TT route if I didn't have a toddler in the near future upcoming. Son will be here in ~1mo and in two years will be a trainwreck on floor items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you cope through your toddler werm?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Have stairs at home and this was quite useful to keep her out of the kitchen and stairs on the first year and half:



besides it gave funny moments where she want to follow us and couldn't. Your life is about to change mate


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup big change, and it's 100% worth it


----------



## wh0kn0ws

After about a month of waiting on the motherboard and rmaing it, I finally was able to put it all back together. I think it was worth the wait.



Thanks to the air leak test contraption bneg did, I was able to catch a leak on one of the GPUs.


----------



## fast_fate

Don't have a release date unfortunately, BUT........

*HW Labs today confirmed that the Muti-Port SR2 (rev 2.1) radiator as pictured previously will be released.*

This should make a few people here quite happy, even with-out a release date.
Light at the end of the tunnel so to speak










Spoiler: SR2 Multi-Port Pics


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Don't have a release date unfortunately, BUT........
> 
> *HW Labs today confirmed that the Muti-Port SR2 (rev 2.1) radiator as pictured previously will be released.*
> 
> This should make a few people here quite happy, even with-out a release date.
> Light at the end of the tunnel so to speak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: SR2 Multi-Port Pics


Are these touted to be the best on the market?


----------



## guitarhero23

Build is complete. Learned so much from this forum and thread.








Come see the rest. [Build Log]


----------



## VSG

Rad/fan combo #2 ready to go for the TX10:



























HWLabs Black Ice SR1 560 w/NB-Blacksilent Pro PK-2 fans in push-pull


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> After about a month of waiting on the motherboard and rmaing it, I finally was able to put it all back together. I think it was worth the wait.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to the air leak test contraption bneg did, I was able to catch a leak on one of the GPUs.


Nice and clean, I like it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Don't have a release date unfortunately, BUT........
> 
> *HW Labs today confirmed that the Muti-Port SR2 (rev 2.1) radiator as pictured previously will be released.*
> 
> This should make a few people here quite happy, even with-out a release date.
> Light at the end of the tunnel so to speak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: SR2 Multi-Port Pics


Yeahusss! Might go with these over BI stealths. They are thicker so it's a durned good thing that I haven't drilled my case and mounts to lock myself into stealths, since these are thicker.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thermaltake X9, horizontal mb layout:
> 
> snip
> 
> *stock TT pics:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Radiator overflow lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got two res do you got two separate channel's ? Or is that only astethics
Click to expand...

The top two pics is of my build (black and white, bunch of monsta rads in there








). The two at the bottom are the stock TT press-release pictures. It shows the "horizon" layout better and you can also see that they stack.

If you're not uber anal about your cases, expecting godly quality, and can put up with a bit of budget case stuff, its a fun case to work with and very unique as it can fit several 480s. I'm running four Monsta 480s with some slight modifications. But I had three sitting there with almost a stock arrangement.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wud go that TT route if I didn't have a toddler in the near future upcoming. Son will be here in ~1mo and in two years will be a trainwreck on floor items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you cope through your toddler werm?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm surviving, that has to count for something?







. For the most part, they know not to mess with my rig. They get curious, but they respect my stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

You're joking right?

My 14yo daughter picked up a piece of Emery cloth I just left an tried to attack my Monsoon 100mm measuring jig with it. Just leaned on the passthrough counter and looked right at me like I was blind, daft and mute.

I looked at her like ygbfnkm and she got this amused "what?" look on her face and put both down.









~Ceadder


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @jeanspaulo...
> 
> Assuming your HDD array is simply for storage and not a mega RAID OS, 18 should be fine. Just remember you can go larger and not smaller when replacing power cables.
> 
> If you go smaller than 16 well I wouldn't take bets on how long your system lasts cuz I wouldn't want to have to pay out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 18 is a step larger so you should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 18awg is perfectly fine. I'm using that all around. Even my mb/cpu, I converted to an 18awg cable from the stock Lepa 16awg and I've had no issues. 295x2 pulls more power then your Tahit's and both of mine are on 18awg lepa vga cables. I wouldn't go 20awg on the gpu's though. Also, 16 would be much stiffer if you decide to double up cables per sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: click


Thank you all for the help and explanation, I'll go with 18 so. To me the safer the better I don't want to mess up the build kkkkk.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Build is complete. Learned so much from this forum and thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come see the rest. [Build Log]


I seriously just had to give you double the props! You really nailed it!


----------



## Yungbenny911

Client's build: got the 980's installed, and connected two reservoirs + two D5 pumps to a single loop. I know a single pump and reservoir would have worked fine, but you gotta give the client what he wants







. What do you guys think?






I'm a little jealous of the case design







. Props to Mnpctech!

Edit: I already leak tested lol, idk why i wrote that i was leak testing







.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Leak testing a Client's build: got the 980's installed, and connected two reservoirs + two D5 pumps to a single loop. I know a single pump and reservoir would have worked fine, but you gotta give the client what he wants
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a little jealous of the case design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Props to Mnpctech!


really neat and tidy build mate







Which case is that? Tempered glass window?

@fast_fate great news on the SR2 mate. Really. A big improvement from HWlabs part and glad to see it reaching the market.


----------



## Lefik

So Thermaltake just launched a waterblock for the 980 Strix, which looks good aesthetically, though the ports are only accessible on one side. It also looks like they forgot to cool the VRM...










Here's the Strix PCB for comparison...


----------



## Ceadderman

Other than the XSPC rad(not a fan) that build looks sweet. What case is that?









Owen did indeed work it over nicely.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> really neat and tidy build mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which case is that? Tempered glass window?
> 
> @fast_fate great news on the SR2 mate. Really. A big improvement from HWlabs part and glad to see it reaching the market.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Other than the XSPC rad(not a fan) that build looks sweet. What case is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Owen did indeed work it over nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks guys! It's a Corsair 760T, and he already had that xspc rad before, so i had to work with it







.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> So Thermaltake just launched a waterblock for the 980 Strix, which looks good aesthetically, though the ports are only accessible on one side. It also looks like they forgot to cool the VRM...


lolz


----------



## taowulf

I see Thermaltake still sucks at water cooling.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> lolz


Very nice







.
I was mostly concerned about the lack of VRM cooling though. The ports aren't really a big deal to me, it just might be to others who want to run their tubing from CPU to GPU without any right angle adapters.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I was mostly concerned about the lack of VRM cooling though. The ports aren't really a big deal to me, it just might be to others who want to run their tubing from CPU to GPU without any right angle adapters.


...or that would like to SLI/Crossfire.


----------



## VSG

They seem to have a similar bridge system as in the EK link/bridge system. This is getting a bit ridiculous now.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> lolz


I have a question. Why is it that the acylic blocks have the ports on the face and the acetal have them on the edge?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> lolz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question. Why is it that the acylic blocks have the ports on the face and the acetal have them on the edge?
Click to expand...

We offer different styles:

The "old" CSQ style for those that prefer it:










With link:










And the "new" clean style that is more traditional if you will:


----------



## DarthBaggins

iPotato 6+


----------



## Ceadderman

I miss RoG branding of ASUS cards. Strix just won't do it for me.









Your setup looks nice though. @ least you took those dreadful owl eyes off.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Now longer an amd gpu devout?


----------



## Ceadderman

Never have been. I will run whatever works on my platform and since that's AMD on my current board that's what I am.

However, if it means I am a fanboy of AMD because I call out nVidia for their business practices being detrimental to the market call me fanboy.









I came up on nVidia back when THEY were the little guy. And they do make good hardware but their tactics have left me cold.








But that said I have always liked the RoG badging over the new Strix. Hope ASUS keeps it around.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Not from what I recall....







. But its good to have an open thought to both sides







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not from what I recall....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But its good to have an open thought to both sides
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Lol probably because I love my AMD cards so much. But if nVidia had a better card that would work on my AMD specific board without having to hack the chip set to make it work and I could get solid value of I sold my Crossfire setup then I would run nVidia if the frame rates were better.

I know it's something of a conundrum but I'm a bit of an idealist. It's one of the reasons that kept me from going Intel. But I will be likely going that direction after this build is completed and I become bored.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We offer different styles:
> 
> And the "new" clean style that is more traditional if you will:


Those two need to have a baby. Yum!


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We offer different styles:
> 
> The "old" CSQ style for those that prefer it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the "new" clean style that is more traditional if you will:


Everytume I see a pic like this i5 makes me want to run out and get an inverted case and some dye.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Everytume I see a pic like this i5 makes me want to run out and get an inverted case and some dye.


DO EET!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We offer different styles:
> 
> And the "new" clean style that is more traditional if you will:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those two need to have a baby. Yum!
Click to expand...


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So close to being a fish...
We need more fish waterblocks.


Of course, the decapitated snail look is good too.


As long as it looks like an animal I'll think about buying it.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Has anyone had any luck finding o rings locally at Lowes or Ace Hardware? I somehow pinched an o ring after cleaning the block. Or would I have to order it online? I opened up a ticket on EKWB asking what size the o ring is. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Has anyone had any luck finding o rings locally at Lowes or Ace Hardware? I somehow pinched an o ring after cleaning the block. Or would I have to order it online? I opened up a ticket on EKWB asking what size the o ring is. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


most likely you can find the oring for your block here:

https://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/EK_ORING.pdf

then is a matter of ordering it online.

Sigh... I still miss FZCPU.

edit - don't forget to order this: http://www.amazon.com/Trident-Silicone-Grease-Jar/dp/B00V2G2BWQ

it is a life saver when working with orings in blocks. keep them healthy and in the slot/position...


----------



## Dzuks

Guys,
Quick question: I have an Asus Maximus V Extreme coupled with a 3770K and 16 gigs of RAM. What are your opinions on upgrading to an Asus Maximus VII Formula, 4770K, and 16GB Dominator GT?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Guys,
> Quick question: I have an Asus Maximus V Extreme coupled with a 3770K and 16 gigs of RAM. What are your opinions on upgrading to an Asus Maximus VII Formula, 4770K, and 16GB Dominator GT?


Not worth it. There is barely a difference between the 2 CPUs. Depending on your RAM, you could upgrade to the GTs if they are faster.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Not worth it. There is barely a difference between the 2 CPUs. Depending on your RAM, you could upgrade to the GTs if they are faster.


I agree


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Not worth it. There is barely a difference between the 2 CPUs. Depending on your RAM, you could upgrade to the GTs if they are faster.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> I agree


Thanks, I thought as much. How about if I'll be getting the Asus Maximus VII Formula, 4770K, and 16GB Dominator GT for 500 bucks?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Thanks, I thought as much. How about if I'll be getting the Asus Maximus VII Formula, 4770K, and 16GB Dominator GT for 500 bucks?


Still not enough of an upgrade. Great price though!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Where is @TheCautiousOne the anticipation for his rig building is killing me.


Yes, Waiting on the O Rings. Should be here Monday. I am at the Car show (Tent madness with all of the other dealerships from Lafayette) Until Sat night. Then I have to move cars back monday but will have Monday afternoon and all of tues off to CREATE this computer again. Frankenstien or madness.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Isn't he still waiting on his O-rings? And there was something about a car show...must be one of those dealer tent sale deals.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think he is preparing to the next attempt on filling the loop. He was spotted recently here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just kidding TCO


This mad me laugh so hard.. The dog was looking at me funny. I needed that after Walking the Pavement for 12 Hours a day talking to people about buying cars they don't want.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Priceless!












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~©eadde®











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Where is @TheCautiousOne the anticipation for his rig building is killing me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Isn't he still waiting on his O-rings? And there was something about a car show...must be one of those dealer tent sale deals.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think he is preparing to the next attempt on filling the loop. He was spotted recently here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just kidding TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Priceless!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~©eadde®


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Has anyone had any luck finding o rings locally at Lowes or Ace Hardware? I somehow pinched an o ring after cleaning the block. Or would I have to order it online? I opened up a ticket on EKWB asking what size the o ring is. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Don't waste your time going into town.. Just did that. Everyone in town was like... Why would you need an O ring that large Sir.. Yea.... So do you have it? No. Ok then.. I will continue on and live life online.

The Cautious One

Heading to the Car show. Will catch up tom.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great, but I haz 980 Strix =(
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> As long as it looks like an animal I'll think about buying it.


Lelephant


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Assuming your HDD array is simply for storage and not a mega RAID OS, 18 should be fine. Just remember you can go larger and not smaller when replacing power cables.
> 
> If you go smaller than 16 well I wouldn't take bets on how long your system lasts cuz I wouldn't want to have to pay out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 18 is a step larger so you should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


American Wire Gauge works from thick to thin. Gauge #16 has a larger cross-section than #18.

Knowing the number of HDDs and the current draw of each of them allows you to calculate exactly what the appropriate wire gauge should be.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Thank you all for the help and explanation, I'll go with 18 so. To me the safer the better I don't want to mess up the build kkkkk.


AWG16 is bigger and "safer". Yet as Wermad already said, it's unnecessary. This is because the Molex MiniFit Jr pins that are used in the connector are designed and specced for 18 AWG, so even if you use fatter wire, the pins remain the weak point. Particularly in regards maximum ampères and moreover volume of material within the crimp. In principle all PC wiring is specified to use 18 AWG for power transmission and 22 AWG for control lines.

The reason to use AWG16 is when using Lutro0's Teleois brand sleeving. He developed this sleeving to give a fuller look, to distinguish it from Nils' MDPC-X which traditionally uses thinner wire and needs to be stretched harder.

If you really do need a higher current than 18 AWG is rated for, don't use any MiniFit Jr connectors or pins that are available from regular sleeving shops. Research instead Molex MiniFit Plus high current system (HCS).


----------



## jdstock76

Aside from reading through 8425 pages of WCing goodness, is there an inherent difference between Bitspower and EK fittings. Starting the planning of a future WC build. So much info out there. This will definitely be one of my more fun projects.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Aside from reading through 8425 pages of WCing goodness, is there an inherent difference between Bitspower and EK fittings. Starting the planning of a future WC build. So much info out there. This will definitely be one of my more fun projects.


Bitspower have a cross hatch grip pattern, and EK has vertical lines grip. Bitspower is more $$$


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Aside from reading through 8425 pages of WCing goodness, is there an inherent difference between Bitspower and EK fittings. Starting the planning of a future WC build. So much info out there. This will definitely be one of my more fun projects.


BP has about the widest selection, whether you go with hardline or soft tubing.

They are also the most expensive, but if you ask the experienced builders which brand is number 1 in reliability with the least leak problems over the long run, I think you'd get a near unanimous consensus that it's BP.

EK is newer to the fittings market, but has a solid reputation as a block manufacturer, and the fitting line is growing with no reported significant issues.

They are a much different style than BP, so part of the choice is aesthetics.

Darlene


----------



## yutzybrian

I use some of Enzotech's stuff myself. They are great if you want to save a little money but still have a reliable fitting. I've used a couple for a few years now.


----------



## derickwm

And you have EK support here


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> BP has about the widest selection, whether you go with hardline or soft tubing.
> 
> They are also the most expensive, but if you ask the experienced builders which brand is number 1 in reliability with the least leak problems over the long run, I think you'd get a near unanimous consensus that it's BP.
> 
> EK is newer to the fittings market, but has a solid reputation as a block manufacturer, and the fitting line is growing with no reported significant issues.
> 
> They are a much different style than BP, so part of the choice is aesthetics.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> I use some of Enzotech's stuff myself. They are great if you want to save a little money but still have a reliable fitting. I've used a couple for a few years now.


Thx! +1

So much research to do. LoL! I love this hobby.


----------



## ozzy1925

since we're talking about fittings :is there any bitspower extension that has same the diameter as the ek x3 res. extensions?


----------



## Ramzinho

We just miss you @TheCautiousOne


----------



## wermad

^^^


----------



## DarthBaggins

You can also look into Barrow fittings, cost alot less than Bitspower


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> We just miss you @TheCautiousOne


He's probably out buying buckets


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all









This will be my last request for advice until August (once I start building, I will need advice as I have never done this before) but I would just like to get some opinions on tubing routes and the parts I have selected.

*:art List::*

*CPU:* Intel 2500k @ 4.8ghz
*GPU:* GTX980/Ti (still to decide which model would be best)
*Chassis:* Cooltek W2

*WC Parts*

*Radiators:*
EK Coolstream 1x120 PE
EK Coolstream 2x120 PE
Ek Coolstream 2x120 XTX

*Blocks:*
EK Supremecy Evo Nickel
FC980 Nickel

*Pump/Res Combo:*
EK XRes 140 D5 Vario

*Other:*
PrimoFlex Adv. 3m (still deciding on color)
12x EK ACF Compression Fitting (still to decide as I am not sure on loop layout yet)
EK Pastel Yellow

*Total Cost:* R8200 excluding duty/import fees (€600/$675)


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be my last request for advice until August (once I start building, I will need advice as I have never done this before) but I would just like to get some opinions on tubing routes and the parts I have selected.
> 
> *:art List::*
> 
> *CPU:* Intel 2500k @ 4.8ghz
> *GPU:* GTX980/Ti (still to decide which model would be best)
> *Chassis:* Cooltek W2
> 
> *WC Parts*
> 
> *Radiators:*
> EK Coolstream 1x120 PE
> EK Coolstream 2x120 PE
> Ek Coolstream 2x120 XTX
> 
> *Blocks:*
> EK Supremecy Evo Nickel
> FC980 Nickel
> 
> *Pump/Res Combo:*
> EK XRes 140 D5 Vario
> 
> *Other:*
> PrimoFlex Adv. 3m (still deciding on color)
> 12x EK ACF Compression Fitting (still to decide as I am not sure on loop layout yet)
> EK Pastel Yellow
> 
> *Total Cost:* R8200 excluding duty/import fees (€600/$675)


wait for 980ti
what fan´s ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Aside from reading through 8425 pages of WCing goodness, is there an inherent difference between Bitspower and EK fittings. Starting the planning of a future WC build. So much info out there. This will definitely be one of my more fun projects.
> 
> 
> 
> BP has about the widest selection, whether you go with hardline or soft tubing.
> 
> They are also the most expensive, but if you ask the experienced builders which brand is number 1 in reliability with the least leak problems over the long run, I think you'd get a near unanimous consensus that it's BP.
> 
> EK is newer to the fittings market, but has a solid reputation as a block manufacturer, and the fitting line is growing with no reported significant issues.
> 
> They are a much different style than BP, so part of the choice is aesthetics.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

This,couldnt of said it better myself.

The new AF fittings are very nice,I am a harsh critic of EK stuff too,the only thing they need to work on is the finish. it can be.....patchy......sometimes,if they can get the finish of the coatings down to regularity then they are the go to fitting on price and aesthetics.

Bitspower are not entirely off scot free,that dragon is all pervasive and im not entirely sure the stunt they pulled with the ARES block was cool.

And yes,Im sponsored by EK and Bitspower. I chose them both for the quality of the products,not for brand loyalty. I dont play favorites......

.......unless its Watercool.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> wait for 980ti
> what fan´s ?


Not 100% sure yet ... Will see what is available when I order ... ... if I go with ordering everything from the EK store, then I will get a couple Vardars (hope I got that right)

Might even go with the Sharkoon Sharks or something from Corsair that I can get locally


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be my last request for advice until August (once I start building, I will need advice as I have never done this before) but I would just like to get some opinions on tubing routes and the parts I have selected.
> 
> *:art List::*
> 
> *CPU:* Intel 2500k @ 4.8ghz
> *GPU:* GTX980/Ti (still to decide which model would be best)
> *Chassis:* Cooltek W2
> 
> *WC Parts*
> 
> *Radiators:*
> EK Coolstream 1x120 PE
> EK Coolstream 2x120 PE
> Ek Coolstream 2x120 XTX
> 
> *Blocks:*
> EK Supremecy Evo Nickel
> FC980 Nickel
> 
> *Pump/Res Combo:*
> EK XRes 140 D5 Vario
> 
> *Other:*
> PrimoFlex Adv. 3m (still deciding on color)
> 12x EK ACF Compression Fitting (still to decide as I am not sure on loop layout yet)
> EK Pastel Yellow
> 
> *Total Cost:* R8200 excluding duty/import fees (€600/$675)


I would just go with all XTX rads instead of the PE's. The PE's have a really high fin density yet still don't cool as well as the XTX's even at high RPMs.



However the PE is probably the best looking of the black rads due to its housing. So if your really in love with the aesthetics it may be worth it to you.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I would just go with all XTX rads instead of the PE's. The PE's have a really high fin density yet still don't cool as well as the XTX's even at high RPMs.
> 
> 
> 
> However the PE is probably the best looking of the black rads due to its housing. So if your really in love with the aesthetics it may be worth it to you.


I have Phobya G v.2 withouth fan´s...







it´s very quiet haha and temps are good!


----------



## Ceadderman

Update on my GPU heatsinks...

Spoke with and showed my uncle the one that has been started on. He in his 70's and has been a machinist and in his own shop since the mid 60s. He just looked at me asked me what my time frame was and I thought that was the end of it. He's retired and his mill is in mothballs.

He called me last night an told me to put the both of them aside and he'll send them down south to Cali and they will get done the right way. So he's picking them up the next time he's in town.









So the next time I post pics of my Thermosphere kit that will be complete.









~Ceadder


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I have Phobya G v.2 withouth fan´s...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it´s very quiet haha and temps are good!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I would just go with all XTX rads instead of the PE's. The PE's have a really high fin density yet still don't cool as well as the XTX's even at high RPMs.
> 
> 
> 
> However the PE is probably the best looking of the black rads due to its housing. So if your really in love with the aesthetics it may be worth it to you.


I was only going with the PE in front of the W2 as there isn't that much space to play with GPU wise unless I don't front mount a radiator ...

Rads without fans ... is that a good idea to do ? ... Like 2x120 with fans and a passive 2x12 in the loop together ?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I was only going with the PE in front of the W2 as there isn't that much space to play with GPU wise unless I don't front mount a radiator ...
> 
> Rads without fans ... is that a good idea to do ? ... Like 2x120 with fans and a passive 2x12 in the loop together ?


I don't think so. I have a Mo-Ra 3 420. That's 9 x 140mm, and it doesn't even cool that great passively and its absolutely massive. I do run it passively most of the day and let my smaller radiators do the work when not gaming, but I would go ahead and put fans on all you radiators and then work out a fan control system where you can run some of them passively if you want to, but you need to be able run them actively when needed.


----------



## VSG

Remember those XSPC PETG tubing I had linked last week?

Facebook album















These are 10/14mm in size so another unique size that no one else uses. Hardline tubing sizes are getting out of hand. Not sure if the bending tool is going to be available or not.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be my last request for advice until August (once I start building, I will need advice as I have never done this before) but I would just like to get some opinions on tubing routes and the parts I have selected.
> 
> *:art List::*
> 
> *CPU:* Intel 2500k @ 4.8ghz
> *GPU:* GTX980/Ti (still to decide which model would be best)
> *Chassis:* Cooltek W2
> 
> *WC Parts*
> 
> *Radiators:*
> EK Coolstream 1x120 PE
> EK Coolstream 2x120 PE
> Ek Coolstream 2x120 XTX
> 
> *Blocks:*
> EK Supremecy Evo Nickel
> FC980 Nickel
> 
> *Pump/Res Combo:*
> EK XRes 140 D5 Vario
> 
> *Other:*
> PrimoFlex Adv. 3m (still deciding on color)
> 12x EK ACF Compression Fitting (still to decide as I am not sure on loop layout yet)
> EK Pastel Yellow
> 
> *Total Cost:* R8200 excluding duty/import fees (€600/$675)


don't get the primochill tubing.. Mayhem has new tubing coming out. cheaper and looks like it will be of great quality.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Remember those XSPC PETG tubing I had linked last week?
> 
> Facebook album
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are 10/14mm in size so another unique size that no one else uses. Hardline tubing sizes are getting out of hand. Not sure if the bending tool is going to be available or not.


Ok .. at first i think the 3 O rings is a very nice touch. and people will like this bending tool... the size? why XSPC? if you have a quality product. people will purchase .


----------



## snef

a lot of pics

pretty closed to the end


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Ok .. at first i think the 3 O rings is a very nice touch. and people will like this bending tool... the size? why XSPC? if you have a quality product. people will purchase .


Their reasoning is that the thicker wall would aid during the bending process. We'll see, I suppose. I haven't heard of anyone complaining about 10/12 too much, and there's 10/13 also via Alphacool.


----------



## derickwm

^click for build log


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> a lot of pics
> 
> pretty closed to the end
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy F**k!!! That is amazing, keep up the good work.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Remember those XSPC PETG tubing I had linked last week?
> 
> Facebook album
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are 10/14mm in size so another unique size that no one else uses. Hardline tubing sizes are getting out of hand. Not sure if the bending tool is going to be available or not.


Hmm, I like that bend tool. I could easily make one of those custom to any size at my work. I'm the CNC programmer at our shop, so I'm the person that makes stuff possible. Since I am that person I don't have to worry about asking someone to write programs for me which is the worst part of wanting something custom made in a shop. Any programmer will tell you no or it's gonna cost you a lot for the time of making the program. I cut that part out by being him lol. I am really thinking of getting into the Hard Tube water cooling because I love the look that some of you guys have done. Just seeing that tool gives me some idea's on how to make one really easy to be adjusted to many sizes and then that will make it way easier to do lots of different bends instead of cutting lots of wood pieces just for 1 bend and taking forever.

Thanks for posting that pic right there. It even gave me an idea on making a adjustable bar that could have a couple of the wheels on it and can slide back and forth to make multiple bends at the same time, and or different sized wheels for tighter or looser arcs in the bends.

Time to open up Inventor tomorrow at work when I'm done programming the stuff I need to for work, and then I can start designing a custom bend tool in 3D, apply some rules to it with some logic, and then start seeing it in 3D and can tweak it from there as needed. I may be able to come up with a way to make hard line making way easier than I seen some people doing it. I have been hesitant to start getting into it or even looking into it just because of seeing some ways people have gone through just to make the bends nice.

My brain will be hurting by the end of the day at work tomorrow


----------



## Ramzinho

Good luck @derickwm


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Hmm, I like that bend tool. I could easily make one of those custom to any size at my work. I'm the CNC programmer at our shop, so I'm the person that makes stuff possible. Since I am that person I don't have to worry about asking someone to write programs for me which is the worst part of wanting something custom made in a shop. Any programmer will tell you no or it's gonna cost you a lot for the time of making the program. I cut that part out by being him lol. I am really thinking of getting into the Hard Tube water cooling because I love the look that some of you guys have done. Just seeing that tool gives me some idea's on how to make one really easy to be adjusted to many sizes and then that will make it way easier to do lots of different bends instead of cutting lots of wood pieces just for 1 bend and taking forever.
> 
> Thanks for posting that pic right there. It even gave me an idea on making a adjustable bar that could have a couple of the wheels on it and can slide back and forth to make multiple bends at the same time, and or different sized wheels for tighter or looser arcs in the bends.
> 
> Time to open up Inventor tomorrow at work when I'm done programming the stuff I need to for work, and then I can start designing a custom bend tool in 3D, apply some rules to it with some logic, and then start seeing it in 3D and can tweak it from there as needed. I may be able to come up with a way to make hard line making way easier than I seen some people doing it. I have been hesitant to start getting into it or even looking into it just because of seeing some ways people have gone through just to make the bends nice.
> 
> My brain will be hurting by the end of the day at work tomorrow


This better lead to a few tools being.. extra


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Hmm, I like that bend tool. I could easily make one of those custom to any size at my work. I'm the CNC programmer at our shop, so I'm the person that makes stuff possible. Since I am that person I don't have to worry about asking someone to write programs for me which is the worst part of wanting something custom made in a shop. Any programmer will tell you no or it's gonna cost you a lot for the time of making the program. I cut that part out by being him lol. I am really thinking of getting into the Hard Tube water cooling because I love the look that some of you guys have done. Just seeing that tool gives me some idea's on how to make one really easy to be adjusted to many sizes and then that will make it way easier to do lots of different bends instead of cutting lots of wood pieces just for 1 bend and taking forever.
> 
> Thanks for posting that pic right there. It even gave me an idea on making a adjustable bar that could have a couple of the wheels on it and can slide back and forth to make multiple bends at the same time, and or different sized wheels for tighter or looser arcs in the bends.
> 
> Time to open up Inventor tomorrow at work when I'm done programming the stuff I need to for work, and then I can start designing a custom bend tool in 3D, apply some rules to it with some logic, and then start seeing it in 3D and can tweak it from there as needed. I may be able to come up with a way to make hard line making way easier than I seen some people doing it. I have been hesitant to start getting into it or even looking into it just because of seeing some ways people have gone through just to make the bends nice.
> 
> My brain will be hurting by the end of the day at work tomorrow


Ur idea just got stolen by 10 manufactures. get that patented


----------



## VSG

Oh, this also came up online today from EK:



and yes, others have already made the connection in there.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh, this also came up online today from EK:
> 
> 
> 
> and yes, others have already made the connection in there.


uhhhhh.... new rad models. Interesting.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> a lot of pics
> 
> pretty closed to the end
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


STOP IT!!!!! You are going to make me go broke seeing your builds







. I just love some of your work so much. I can't stop thinking about cool builds and ways to do things, then YOU post more pics of your builds and then it makes me want to go right back to the store and spend lots more, and MORE. HAHAHAHA. Love the green on white in this one. I had that mobo out of the box yesterday at Microcenter when I was with a customer of mine getting his new parts for the build I'm doing this weekend. I was trying to get him to get that board but the idiot sales guy at Microcenter started opening his mouth and arguing with me that the Maximus 7 Formula would be way better. Yes I know it's a better board and recommend it all the time, but it's not going to make that big of a difference when we are clocking a 4790K at only 4.6ghz on custom water and 2 780ti's in sli. There would be maybe 2-5fps difference and the sales guy made it out like it would be going from 100fps on the sabertooth to getting 200fps if he used the Maximus. Those sales guys are so dumb sometimes I hate them. I'll send someone down there to get some parts with all the SKU #'s and then the sales guys will tell them to get other stuff and tell my guy that hes wasting his money if he buys the parts I sent them to get. One of my guys came back to me with the parts for his build, but told me on the phone on his way over that he save $300 and got better stuff. I said OK. He showed up at my place with a dame AMD cpu and mobo







. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!?!?! I told my guy to go back to microcenter and have that sales guy build him his new pc because I won't build a AMD cpu build at all. LOL.

But REALLY nice Snef, REALLY!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Ur idea just got stolen by 10 manufactures. get that patented


Yeah, many of them have LOL. I will make a dumb one that is no good and show pics of that one so they think that's the real deal, but I'll have the one I'm working on behind the curtains. Until I have it perfected







. I don't mind sharing my ideas with you guys at all. I am here to learn and help in any way I can ALWAYS. But seeing that tool really gave me some ideas. I wont really go further then that as of now, but after some playing on Inventor at work and some Plasma burning , CNC milling , some custom programs, I might just have something sweet to share soon.

Guess I'll be asking some questions soon on what's the better Hard Tube to use and some info on fittings, and then I will be bending some stuff up here. At least this will pop my cherry on the hard line start so I'll get into it now.








LET THE FUN BEGIN








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This better lead to a few tools being.. extra


OF COURSE bud. I will gladly share. I want the final to be very cheap to buy so I can pass out plenty to you guys if I can pull off something. I could use a guy from here that has done some Hard Line bending tho to PM me about some ideas and info to get me going in the right way. I am a virgin to it







hahaha.

ON the pic of the EK rads coming soon, that's sweet. I love these PE rads I have in my current build. They are working amazing for what I'm doing and they are performing this well at near silence now. I think these are some of the best rads I've use so far. I am really curious to see what EK pulls off next. If it's even better than the PE, that will be dope!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> and yes, others have already made the connection in there.


Oh yes.. *EXE*









So what kind of program will it be


----------



## Hambone07si

Here was a video of a fan I made in Inventor when I first started teaching myself how to use the software. I was just messing around and uploaded this some years ago, but for teaching myself the software and never going to school for 3D modeling, I did pretty dame well I'd say for what I can do now. Just remembered I put this on youtube so I figured I'd share real quick, but my Inventor wheels are turning now, just like this fan is spinning and blowing it across the screen LOL









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXUoEIE5r4c


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Thanks for the help with the o ring. I went ahead and ordered some 62x1.5mm orings from McMaster Carr, so if anyone needs one let me know. I'll have a pack of 50. I assembled the block again, and moved the pinched o ring around and used some of that silicon grease, and surprisingly enough, its holding pressure.


----------



## Ceadderman

I just got an idea for a fan design if you could mock it up for me we cud split the profits.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Thanks for the help with the o ring. I went ahead and ordered some 62x1.5mm orings from McMaster Carr, so if anyone needs one let me know. I'll have a pack of 50. I assembled the block again, and moved the pinched o ring around and used some of that silicon grease, and surprisingly enough, its holding pressure.


wow that was fast. Glad it helped and was not sure you saw my edit in the post about the silicon grease. And







for using air for leak test.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> wow that was fast. Glad it helped and was not sure you saw my edit in the post about the silicon grease. And
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for using air for leak test.


Yep I saw your edit, and I really appreciate your help.

So after half an hour, the air gauge is still reading 14 psi


----------



## kc5vdj

Anyone have the scoop on how much the Lian Li PC-O8 is going to cost?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> a lot of pics
> 
> pretty closed to the end
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! That is just sweet!

That white, green, and black just works!


----------



## kc5vdj

Does anyone have the straight scoop on how much the Lian Li PC-O8 is going to cost?

It does appear that Lian Li really is starting to pay attention!

Lian Li PC-O8 "To be released in June 2015"

Extensive photo gallery of chassis


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kc5vdj*
> 
> Does anyone have the straight scoop on how much the Lian Li PC-O8 is going to cost?
> 
> It does appear that Lian Li really is starting to pay attention!
> 
> Lian Li PC-O8 "To be released in June 2015"
> 
> Extensive photo gallery of chassis


O my, now I am torn between wanting that case or a Core X9 to switch my folder into.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 18awg is perfectly fine. I'm using that all around. Even my mb/cpu, I converted to an 18awg cable from the stock Lepa 16awg and I've had no issues. 295x2 pulls more power then your Tahit's and both of mine are on 18awg lepa vga cables. I wouldn't go 20awg on the gpu's though. Also, 16 would be much stiffer if you decide to double up cables per sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: click


Hi again, I'm searching for the cables here on my country but for now I only found 20 and greater AWG I didnt found 16 neither 18. What could be the problems to use 20awg. For the VGAs I'll be using the Original cables that came with the psu, I'm planning to use the custom ones to wire up the HDDs, SSDs, Aquaero, Pump, maybe some led strip .


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hi again, I'm searching for the cables here on my country but for now I only found 20 and greater AWG I didnt found 16 neither 18. What could be the problems to use 20awg. For the VGAs I'll be using the Original cables that came with the psu, I'm planning to use the custom ones to wire up the HDDs, SSDs, Aquaero, Pump, maybe some led strip .


The smaller the diameter wire you use, the lower the voltage you may see at the end of the wire. At ~2 feet you could see up to a .5v drop from your power supply to your other devices using 20AWG. I'm not sure that the devices will care or not, but they are expecting the voltages that the power supply puts out.

Edit: That was calculated assuming GPU power draw, most other devices don't use nearly as much power, so the voltage drop would be considerably less.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Remember those XSPC PETG tubing I had linked last week?
> 
> Facebook album
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are 10/14mm in size so another unique size that no one else uses. Hardline tubing sizes are getting out of hand. Not sure if the bending tool is going to be available or not.


Would love them in "chrome" and sans logo. Would have jumped on these







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hi again, I'm searching for the cables here on my country but for now I only found 20 and greater AWG I didnt found 16 neither 18. What could be the problems to use 20awg. For the VGAs I'll be using the Original cables that came with the psu, I'm planning to use the custom ones to wire up the HDDs, SSDs, Aquaero, Pump, maybe some led strip .
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The smaller the diameter wire you use, the lower the voltage you may see at the end of the wire. At ~2 feet you could see up to a .5v drop from your power supply to your other devices using 20AWG. I'm not sure that the devices will care or not, but they are expecting the voltages that the power supply puts out.
> 
> Edit: That was calculated assuming GPU power draw, most other devices don't use nearly as much power, so the voltage drop would be considerably less.
Click to expand...

Have you looked at place where they sell electrical parts or repair stuff for electronics? Maybe ebay (through a chinese) seller?

You can always reuse the ones that came w/ the psu. The pump and the controller worry me the most tbh running on 20 awg.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The smaller the diameter wire you use, the lower the voltage you may see at the end of the wire. *At ~2 feet you could see up to a .5v drop from your power supply to your other devices using 20AWG*. I'm not sure that the devices will care or not, but they are expecting the voltages that the power supply puts out.
> 
> Edit: That was calculated assuming GPU power draw, most other devices don't use nearly as much power, so the voltage drop would be considerably less.


Whut?

How did you come up with that number?



Source


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Remember those XSPC PETG tubing I had linked last week?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Facebook album
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are 10/14mm in size so another unique size that no one else uses. Hardline tubing sizes are getting out of hand. Not sure if the bending tool is going to be available or not.


The Nickel and Black versions should look good - not too keen on the black nickel myself.

This is not a new or unique size though....
Barrow has offered 10mm ID 14mm OD tubing for a couple of years with fittings to suit.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Whut?
> 
> How did you come up with that number?


Using a voltage drop calculator. Assuming 12v, 20awg, i guessed a gpu pulls ~10amps max. At 2 feet you drop about .41v ish.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

I just finished rebuilding my loop. I switched my XSPC D5 Dual Bay Res for a Koolance COV-RP450 and tube reservoir. The case is a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe with the following rads: XSPC EX360 p/p AP-13 on top intake, XSPC EX240 pull AP-13 in front intake, XSPC EX240 pull AP-13 in the bottom intake, XSPC EX120 push AP-13 in the rear exhaust. Think I have too many fans on intake considering I have only a single 120mm rad as a rear exhaust?


----------



## Ceadderman

I see you don't have MB blocks so if anything is being affected it would be your MB temps. Otherwise you should be okay unless your GPU is also being affected.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Remember those XSPC PETG tubing I had linked last week?
> 
> Facebook album
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are 10/14mm in size so another unique size that no one else uses. Hardline tubing sizes are getting out of hand. Not sure if the bending tool is going to be available or not.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, I like that bend tool. I could easily make one of those custom to any size at my work. I'm the CNC programmer at our shop, so I'm the person that makes stuff possible. Since I am that person I don't have to worry about asking someone to write programs for me which is the worst part of wanting something custom made in a shop. Any programmer will tell you no or it's gonna cost you a lot for the time of making the program. I cut that part out by being him lol. I am really thinking of getting into the Hard Tube water cooling because I love the look that some of you guys have done. Just seeing that tool gives me some idea's on how to make one really easy to be adjusted to many sizes and then that will make it way easier to do lots of different bends instead of cutting lots of wood pieces just for 1 bend and taking forever.
> 
> Thanks for posting that pic right there. It even gave me an idea on making a adjustable bar that could have a couple of the wheels on it and can slide back and forth to make multiple bends at the same time, and or different sized wheels for tighter or looser arcs in the bends.
> 
> Time to open up Inventor tomorrow at work when I'm done programming the stuff I need to for work, and then I can start designing a custom bend tool in 3D, apply some rules to it with some logic, and then start seeing it in 3D and can tweak it from there as needed. I may be able to come up with a way to make hard line making way easier than I seen some people doing it. I have been hesitant to start getting into it or even looking into it just because of seeing some ways people have gone through just to make the bends nice.
> 
> My brain will be hurting by the end of the day at work tomorrow
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Remember those XSPC PETG tubing I had linked last week?
> 
> Facebook album
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are 10/14mm in size so another unique size that no one else uses. Hardline tubing sizes are getting out of hand. Not sure if the bending tool is going to be available or not.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, I like that bend tool. I could easily make one of those custom to any size at my work. I'm the CNC programmer at our shop, so I'm the person that makes stuff possible. Since I am that person I don't have to worry about asking someone to write programs for me which is the worst part of wanting something custom made in a shop. Any programmer will tell you no or it's gonna cost you a lot for the time of making the program. I cut that part out by being him lol. I am really thinking of getting into the Hard Tube water cooling because I love the look that some of you guys have done. Just seeing that tool gives me some idea's on how to make one really easy to be adjusted to many sizes and then that will make it way easier to do lots of different bends instead of cutting lots of wood pieces just for 1 bend and taking forever.
> 
> Thanks for posting that pic right there. It even gave me an idea on making a adjustable bar that could have a couple of the wheels on it and can slide back and forth to make multiple bends at the same time, and or different sized wheels for tighter or looser arcs in the bends.
> 
> Time to open up Inventor tomorrow at work when I'm done programming the stuff I need to for work, and then I can start designing a custom bend tool in 3D, apply some rules to it with some logic, and then start seeing it in 3D and can tweak it from there as needed. I may be able to come up with a way to make hard line making way easier than I seen some people doing it. I have been hesitant to start getting into it or even looking into it just because of seeing some ways people have gone through just to make the bends nice.
> 
> My brain will be hurting by the end of the day at work tomorrow
Click to expand...

Been done already,Darth Beavis made one up with a sliding wheel assembly.
I also have one made up in Solidworks if you want the DXF.

I can see one glaring issue that needs addressing tho,that pipehook has no place on an acrylic mandrel,it will flatten the tube badly and doesn't allow you to lay the mandrel flat.
The tube radius looks tight too. Designed by someone who has not bent tube before......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Using a voltage drop calculator. Assuming 12v, 20awg, i guessed a gpu pulls ~10amps max. At 2 feet you drop about .41v ish.


Amd recommends 28amps per 8-pin or 50amps for combine connectors for a single 295x2


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno it looks like it would do the job if you notice that it's seat is rounded to the same specs as the mandrel B. I could be wrong but it looks like a perfect circle capable of holding the tube to keep the tube from moving. Although as you said you would be hard pressed to mount it to the work surface.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno it looks like it would do the job if you notice that it's seat is rounded to the same specs as the mandrel B. I could be wrong but it looks like a perfect circle capable of holding the tube to keep the tube from moving. Although as you said you would be hard pressed to mount it to the work surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It can be as round as you like,it won't matter with hot tube in it,there will be flattening as you are using the pipehook as a brace on tube at forming temp.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hi again, I'm searching for the cables here on my country but for now I only found 20 and greater AWG I didnt found 16 neither 18. What could be the problems to use 20awg. For the VGAs I'll be using the Original cables that came with the psu, I'm planning to use the custom ones to wire up the HDDs, SSDs, Aquaero, Pump, maybe some led strip .


It's maybe useful if you mention which country









In Europe we tend to use 0.75mm2 or 1.0mm2 cross-section as an alternative to 18 AWG. It needs to be copper or tinned copper; and twist-stranded, e.g. 24 strands of 0.2mm. The _maximum_ insulation diameter should be 2.4mm with operating temperature 70C+. Don't worry about voltage. Depending on the sleeving type, 2.0mm - 2.2mm insulation diameter will be preferable.


----------



## Ramzinho

+1 to what wisk said. European power cables standards are measured with the cross section of the cable.

I use below chart to identify the power cables needed for equipment that is USA made in my job.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kc5vdj*
> 
> Does anyone have the straight scoop on how much the Lian Li PC-O8 is going to cost?
> 
> It does appear that Lian Li really is starting to pay attention!
> 
> Lian Li PC-O8 "To be released in June 2015"
> 
> Extensive photo gallery of chassis


Love the side panel! Huge window, and tempered glass.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> We just miss you @TheCautiousOne












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^


Thanks Werm! I think the Coolant is in Lafayette! But the O Rings are coming from Amazon.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> He's probably out buying buckets


This Guy!









The Cautious One


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The Nickel and Black versions should look good - not too keen on the black nickel myself.
> 
> This is not a new or unique size though....
> Barrow has offered 10mm ID 14mm OD tubing for a couple of years with fittings to suit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oooh those fittings look good too, good find +1


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A quick call to XSPC and one of those mandrels is on its way to me.

I will do a brief on it in the acrylic thread when it arrives.

Also....thick walled tube should be a bonus for pastel users that want that traditional tube effect


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A quick call to XSPC and one of those mandrels is on its way to me.
> 
> I will do a brief on it in the acrylic thread when it arrives.


I look forward to it! I'm really curious how it compares to Monsoon's offering.


----------



## VSG

^ Same, I wonder if having some thin, soft foam on the ends might help not flatten the tubing if this is an issue at all. This assuming the tubing will still fit inside of course.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Same, I wonder if having some thin, soft foam on the ends might help not flatten the tubing if this is an issue at all. This assuming the tubing will still fit inside of course.


It just doesnt need to be there,trying to thread hot tube thru that then place everything to bend, thats without the hook marking or deforming the tube....
Its the reason i want to play with it tbh,I might be missing something here but I dont see the need for it.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It just doesnt need to be there,trying to thread hot tube thru that then place everything to bend, thats without the hook marking or deforming the tube....
> Its the reason i want to play with it tbh,I might be missing something here but I dont see the need for it.


Depending on the length, I think you could pre-install the tubing, heat it, and then pull it back through to where you want to apply the bend.


----------



## jdstock76

Anyone know the difference in the XS-PC pump and reservoirs D5 and DDC? Everything looks the same except styling.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Anyone know the difference in the XS-PC pump and reservoirs D5 and DDC? Everything looks the same except styling.


There are several variations of the DDC style pumps, and at least two of the D5. Other than that, everything is the same except styling.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It just doesnt need to be there,trying to thread hot tube thru that then place everything to bend, thats without the hook marking or deforming the tube....
> Its the reason i want to play with it tbh,I might be missing something here but I dont see the need for it.
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the length, I think you could pre-install the tubing, heat it, and then pull it back through to where you want to apply the bend.
Click to expand...

You could do that.

But how would you manipulate the tube and keep control of the mandrel? You could let it free hang but you would scratch the tube to pieces.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could do that.
> 
> But how would you manipulate the tube and keep control of the mandrel? You could let it free hang but you would scratch the tube to pieces.


Good point, definitely don't want to do that. I guess depending on how tight the tubing fits, someone could use some tape to protect the tubing. I have the Monsoons as I have not bent a lot of tubing and they helped tremendously with some of the more intricate bends I did.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A quick call to XSPC and one of those mandrels is on its way to me.
> 
> I will do a brief on it in the acrylic thread when it arrives.
> 
> Also....thick walled tube should be a bonus for pastel users that want that traditional tube effect


Great. Please post a note here too when you get to that point. I would have choose a different coolant for both "chessboard" and "grey matter" if I could find a way to make it black and white for the former and grey for the latter. BTW anyone have any suggestions (besides pastel of course)? How can one make a grey liquid using water as the base (not white pastel)? I am of mind on trying a thick walled acrylic tube I have here (from local stores)...


----------



## VSG

Got a confirmation that there will be tools on the way too, they are being worked on at the moment.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thicker on the acrylic tubing would make for cleaner bends I'd think


----------



## wermad

Curious if this attachment works for acrylic?



May give it a shot if the xspc stuff works good, though i may just go w/ a bunch of angled fittings tbh.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I should be studying, but I really want to work on this. Let me know what you all think...


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Great. Please post a note here too when you get to that point. I would have choose a different coolant for both "chessboard" and "grey matter" if I could find a way to make it black and white for the former and grey for the latter. BTW anyone have any suggestions (besides pastel of course)? How can one make a grey liquid using water as the base (not white pastel)? I am of mind on trying a thick walled acrylic tube I have here (from local stores)...


What is the traditional tube effect?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> What is the traditional tube effect?


Using pastel on a thin walled tube gives a flat appearance, much like the tube itself was colored or painted. Using pastel on regular soft tubing (that have thicker walls) pastel have a better effect since you can distinct the tube from the liquid inside. B neg was alluding to this that a thicker walled xspc tube might have this additional effect as a bonus


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Using pastel on a thin walled tube gives a flat appearance, much like the tube itself was colored or painted. Using pastel on regular soft tubing (that have thicker walls) pastel have a better effect since you can distinct the tube from the liquid inside. B neg was alluding to this that a thicker walled xspc tube might have this additional effect as a bonus


Thanks for the explanation


----------



## TheOwlHootHoot

Can I join the club?

Note: This is a first attempt.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Lol,you posted this before and it was only vaguely funny then.........


----------



## TheOwlHootHoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol...


One lol to rule them all.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOwlHootHoot*
> 
> Can I join the club?
> 
> Note: This is a first attempt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like the straight pink lines and the absolute control for non excess tubing


----------



## Hambone07si

Well, got my D5 pump on a Aquacomputer 140ml res top now, and the EK X-res with a D5 vario out as well. Getting another Swiftech MCP655 after I get out of work today because a friend with a water loop wants me to just put an air cooler on his cpu so he doesn't have to maintain the water loop anymore, LAZY. So I'll be getting a mcp655, swiftech 360 rad, tube res (200ml about) , and swiftech apogee cpu block all for about $80. Can't really beat that. I just want the pump really so the deal is good for me. I can put the cpu block on a system for $50 and then I'm only in $30 for the pump and 360 rad, res isn't too bad, not sure if I'll use that in a build of mine or just have for some side projects.

I am really wanting to do a custom build with the Z97 Sabertooth Mark S mobo. I really like that Urban / Winter camo look they went with. Not sure what I need another pc for around the house, but I guess I can find some use for it. Thinking of maybe a custom coffee table with the pc built under some plexi with a way overboard water loop just to look cool more than anything. Or if I can come up with something else that could just look cool sitting somewhere. We'll see

May end up with dual loops with dual D5 res combo's in my main system soon. Going to see which res top I like better between the Aquacomputers aqualis and the EK xres.. I seen people saying that the Aqua computers res was too restrictive and didn't flow correctly, well I think I know why some of them are having issues with theirs. When I took the stock top off my D5, there's a O-ring that comes inside that, and there's a o-ring that comes with the res that you buy. They are 2 different sizes and you shouldn't use the stock one with the other one. I was seeing how it would work if someone put both in when they install the pump on the res and the stock o-ring blocks half of the port for water to go out which is why some might be complaining about the Aqua res. I didn't install it like that because you aren't supposed to. After getting it installed, I just looped a piece of tube from the outlet to the top of the res and filled up with some distilled water so I could see the flow coming into the res. If installed correctly it flows great. There is no trickling, or very little water coming out of the setup like that. It's working just fine. I will have no issues using that res over the EK xres. EK one is a good bit bigger and might not fit in the same spot the aqua will, but I do like the EK look a little better personally. I'm installing one into a system today and will see how it does.


----------



## Faster_is_better

I have a Bitspower Shut off valve on the end of my air testing setup that seems to be the leaking spot. If I put a bit of grease in the ball valve would it help seal/fix it? I'm not sure if the valve is faulty or it just doesn't do well with air pressure and might be fine under water pressure.


----------



## DarthBaggins

or put a cap on the end, unless its leaking via the handle then that's not good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you tried turning it a few times back and forth til the knob points the correct way showing that the ball is completely shut?

If so a cap should fix it unless it's inline and connects within the loop.










I wouldn't put lube in it however. If it's faulty I would return it for replacement.

~Ceadder







™


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> or put a cap on the end, unless its leaking via the handle then that's not good.


I had a cap on the end and it was still leaking through that, but that's another issue







I don't think it is leaking through the handle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you tried turning it a few times back and forth til the knob points the correct way showing that the ball is completely shut?
> 
> If so a cap should fix it unless it's inline and connects within the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't put lube in it however. If it's faulty I would return it for replacement.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ™


It's been worked back and forth plenty, when I first bought it (it's used) It wouldn't open all the way, then I got tough with it and it finally did, so I'm not sure if the rubber inside it was pinched or something, but it operates smoothly now. I left it in a tub of water with 10 PSI and it lost a noticeable amount, it bubbled right out of the open end so it isn't sealing properly.

I wasn't sure if some of the grease used for o-rings might help it out, by "conditioning" the rubber seal possibly.

It's not within any loop its just on the end of my air testing rig (which I would like to not leak, if it is testing FOR leaks lol). Gauge > barb > tubing > barb > ball valve.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol. I getcha. If you're not going to use it in your loop and it's the end point in your leak tester I see no reason you couldn't use some silicon lube.

~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Gotta start teaching them young


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Gotta start teaching them young


Awesome, dude! Great shirt on your little one!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also that piece of the Raystorm was lightest/safest for him to hold right now lol, thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Gotta start teaching them young
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CENTER]
> [/CENTER]


sweet


----------



## snef




----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Gotta start teaching them young
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks great man.. .TMNT


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Gotta start teaching them young
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Next up: Acrylic tube bending


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love that Avexir ram, but they really need to implement a way to let you control the flashing.

(sorry for the double post







)


----------



## emsj86

@darthbaggins that's great my two year old is learning the ways. He loves the second monitor as I will put him on my lap and he watches umizoomi or those weird surprise open egg thing on YouTube. Can't wait to get him into it early as I just got my first pc match 2014


----------



## erso44

I think I got a pressure issue here:

Today I mounted the CPU block (again), 2 GTX 780 blocks, 2 MB blocks, a res and 2 rads.
When I started the pump it didn´t push the water into the first rad. Why? I had to shake the case until the water bubbled and slowy decreased.
Pump is a D5 and I think they are powerful. The new 2 MB blocks have a high waterflow rate. Could it be when I use long tubes? I have already mounted 2,5m of tubing









Pump->Rad1->Res->CPU->MB->Rad2->Pump.....
I didn´t installed booth graphic cards because I´m actually leak testing the new mosfet and south bridge cooling parts.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I give it two thumbs up.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I think I got a pressure issue here:
> 
> Today I mounted the CPU block (again), 2 GTX 780 blocks, 2 MB blocks, a res and 2 rads.
> When I started the pump it didn´t push the water into the first rad. Why? I had to shake the case until the water bubbled and slowy decreased.
> Pump is a D5 and I think they are powerful. The new 2 MB blocks have a high waterflow rate. Could it be when I use long tubes? I have already mounted 2,5m of tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump->Rad1->Res->CPU->MB->Rad2->Pump.....
> I didn´t installed booth graphic cards because I´m actually leak testing the new mosfet and south bridge cooling parts.


Picture of the loop will help us troubleshoot. Since you reservoir is not before the pump and feeding it directly is the rad2 your fill port? Was it full of liquid (rad 2) before you started the pump?


----------



## Dzuks

Trying some acrylic bending...


----------



## emsj86

Is ok to not have the return fitting hooked up to the port with the inside tube on the bitspower multi port reservoir tank.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I think I got a pressure issue here:
> 
> Today I mounted the CPU block (again), 2 GTX 780 blocks, 2 MB blocks, a res and 2 rads.
> When I started the pump it didn´t push the water into the first rad. Why? I had to shake the case until the water bubbled and slowy decreased.
> Pump is a D5 and I think they are powerful. The new 2 MB blocks have a high waterflow rate. Could it be when I use long tubes? I have already mounted 2,5m of tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump->Rad1->Res->CPU->MB->Rad2->Pump.....
> I didn´t installed booth graphic cards because I´m actually leak testing the new mosfet and south bridge cooling parts.


Correct me if I'm wrong but do you not have the reservior going to the pump. If not it should be. Also check to make sure your hooked up to the correct inlet and outlet ports for the pump. If you think it's an air preasure issue a fast check would be taking the cap or poort off the reservior and turn it on as it should release the air through the opening. But it seems to me it's something else. Any pictures or video would make the guessing game alittle easier


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying some acrylic bending...


Its tedious For sure...one run you should revisit is cpu to res. It looks like you had it perfect except you cut the res side too short and made the tube slant downward, unless its the angle. Nice work tho!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but d*o you not have the reservior going to the pump*. If not it should be. Also check to make sure your hooked up to the correct inlet and outlet ports for the pump. If you think it's an air preasure issue a fast check would be taking the cap or poort off the reservior and turn it on as it should release the air through the opening. But it seems to me it's something else. Any pictures or video would make the guessing game alittle easier


It is not a strict requirement mate although is certainly a good way to make sure the pump is feed with water properly. But you can run a loop where the reservoir is not before the pump. The most important function of the reservoir is to help to bleed the air out of the loop. You can even run a loop without a reservoir if you are an experienced user and plan well to fill it and bleed it without. But it is a safe recommendation to put the reservoir before the pump for most users just to avoid running the pump dry...


----------



## Tunz

I just finished redoing my loop (again). There were a couple runs that were bugging me, and since I was installing my Titan X's I figured it was a good time to change it. As you can see in the before pic, the long run from the pump to bottom rad, and from the gpu to top rad just didn't look good. I decided to go behind the motherboard tray and I think it looks much cleaner. Let me know what you guys think.
Before:


After:


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I just finished redoing my loop (again). There were a couple runs that were bugging me, and since I was installing my Titan X's I figured it was a good time to change it. As you can see in the before pic, the long run from the pump to bottom rad, and from the gpu to top rad just didn't look good. I decided to go behind the motherboard tray and I think it looks much cleaner. Let me know what you guys think.
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think the new runs look good


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> I think the new runs look good is the pump pushing to the gpu or is that the return?


That's the return. It goes Res>pump>bottom rad>top rad>Mosfet>cpu>gpus


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> That's the return. It goes Res>pump>bottom rad>top rad>Mosfet>cpu>gpus


Is the top rad a crossflow one? I am trying to figure out where the other port on it is lol.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> That's the return. It goes Res>pump>bottom rad>top rad>Mosfet>cpu>gpus


Overall your rig is looking pretty awesome. New runs look very clean, the second sli bridge definitely fits the build too


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is the top rad a crossflow one? I am trying to figure out where the other port on it is lol.


Not a crossflow lol. The tubing goes into the rad from behind the motherboard tray.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Overall your rig is looking pretty awesome. New runs look very clean, the second sli bridge definitely fits the build too


Thank you. I really wanted to like the rog bridge but it just doesn't fit my build. I may pick up an evga v2 bridge and paint it.


----------



## VSG

Ah that makes sense also. +1 for the improvement


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I just finished redoing my loop (again).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There were a couple runs that were bugging me, and since I was installing my Titan X's I figured it was a good time to change it. As you can see in the before pic, the long run from the pump to bottom rad, and from the gpu to top rad just didn't look good. I decided to go behind the motherboard tray and I think it looks much cleaner. Let me know what you guys think.
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


A1. Love the Redo!

TCO


----------



## Ironsmack

I just saw the new Fractal HP120 fans. @geggeg or @B NEGATIVE... Are you guys planning to play around with these fans?


----------



## VSG

Fractal has ignored my contact messages on their website multiple times so I am not going to hold my breath personally.


----------



## Rahldrac

How do you diagnose too little flow? I see people worrying about their flow with just 2 rads and GPU and cpu.
I have 4*360 rads, 2 GPUs and cpu on a ek dcp 4.0 pwm version. That usually is on 60%.
I have tried to boost it up to 100%, but no real temp changes. So am I missing something or are people overly worried about this?


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I just finished redoing my loop (again). There were a couple runs that were bugging me, and since I was installing my Titan X's I figured it was a good time to change it. As you can see in the before pic, the long run from the pump to bottom rad, and from the gpu to top rad just didn't look good. I decided to go behind the motherboard tray and I think it looks much cleaner. Let me know what you guys think.
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


Remind's me of Paul's Hardware's Arctic Panther. Looks nice!


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Picture of the loop will help us troubleshoot. Since you reservoir is not before the pump and feeding it directly is the rad2 your fill port? Was it full of liquid (rad 2) before you started the pump?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but do you not have the reservior going to the pump. If not it should be. Also check to make sure your hooked up to the correct inlet and outlet ports for the pump. If you think it's an air preasure issue a fast check would be taking the cap or poort off the reservior and turn it on as it should release the air through the opening. But it seems to me it's something else. Any pictures or video would make the guessing game alittle easier


so I solved the problem. When I emptied the reservoir I pumped air into the whole system to "pump" out all the water inside. Therefore air collected inside the rads and when I filled up the res the pump didn´t pumped water into the first res because there was too much air in the res which avoided to get the water in.
I shaked the case and there we went








Gabrielzm has right, it´s not about how you set your custom water loop but there was too much air inside.
But thanks for your help guys!











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I just finished redoing my loop (again). There were a couple runs that were bugging me, and since I was installing my Titan X's I figured it was a good time to change it. As you can see in the before pic, the long run from the pump to bottom rad, and from the gpu to top rad just didn't look good. I decided to go behind the motherboard tray and I think it looks much cleaner. Let me know what you guys think.
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:






Why do you have parallel flow? I thought it´s useless if you go for 2 way SLI...or did I miss something?


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Why do you have parallel flow? I thought it´s useless if you go for 2 way SLI...or did I miss something?


To my knowledge, it doesn't really make a difference going with serial or parallel in 2-way (or even 3-way) configs but some think it just looks better than serial.

Heck, even 4-way bridges are just 2 sets of parallel bridged in serial.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Why do you have parallel flow? I thought it´s useless if you go for 2 way SLI...or did I miss something?


This is a question that has been asked a ton of times.

Parallel is never useless. Serial vs Parallel are so close in comparison on temps that the option for one or the other is Up to the Maker.

Did a Video For Hambone not to long ago.




Hope it helps. Will have another with coloured coolant to show how fast it goes through.

TCO


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Fractal has ignored my contact messages on their website multiple times so I am not going to hold my breath personally.


Too bad.

Hopefully you can still add in the future review.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Why do you have parallel flow? I thought it´s useless if you go for 2 way SLI...or did I miss something?


When you have your GPU's in a serial flow pattern, water runs through each card in the way you have the tubing set up. There would only be one piece of tubing connecting the cards, which would reduce the flow in a system.

For parallel, water runs through BOTH cards at the same time, which increases flow in a system. The only downside of parallel, is the "supposedly" hotter water temps, which aren't that much of a difference anyways.

I ran parallel with my 6GB 780's, and while I never did try them in serial, I prefer parallel.... Especially if you have a large loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD!

Red candy over orange candy over bare metal.....


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> When you have your GPU's in a serial flow pattern, water runs through each card in the way you have the tubing set up. There would only be one piece of tubing connecting the cards, which would reduce the flow in a system.
> 
> For parallel, water runs through BOTH cards at the same time, which increases flow in a system. The only downside of parallel, is the "supposedly" hotter water temps, which aren't that much of a difference anyways.
> 
> I ran parallel with my 6GB 780's, and while I never did try them in serial, I prefer parallel.... Especially if you have a large loop.


so you mean a serial mode could brake water speed?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> so you mean a serial mode could brake water speed?




There will still be good flow, just not as good as parallel.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD!
> 
> Red candy over orange candy over bare metal.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice color. Screws in the black acetal in Red/Orange be too much?


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> There will still be good flow, just not as good as parallel.


but this is a example for 3 way sli/crossfire.
Did you test serie and parallel in your system?


----------



## Ceadderman

Me likes it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD!
> 
> Red candy over orange candy over bare metal.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. The whole HeretEk build (specially the case color) reminds me of my beloved one:


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> but this is a example for 3 way sli/crossfire.
> Did you test serie and parallel in your system?


Of course 3 way and 4 way would have higher restriction in serial. It will go up with GPU's. 2 way will have less that 3 way, but it's more restrictive than parallel. Like I said, I've only done parallel, for that reason alone.


----------



## wermad

There's no temp difference between both for the most common applications. I've only seen series done better when you're pushing extremely heavy overclocks, pushing the thermal capabilities of water (short of using exotic cooling). Basically, there's no thermal gain going to either series or parallel. If you want the looks or care more about restriction, then make a choice


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's no temp difference between both for the most common applications. I've only seen series done better when you're pushing extremely heavy overclocks, pushing the thermal capabilities of water (short of using exotic cooling). Basically, there's no thermal gain going to either series or parallel. *If you want the looks* or care more about restriction, then make a choice


Exactly

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

My EK bridge would look the same regardless of series or parallel. But I wanted Parallel to simplify my tubing runs off the GPU. So I guess I am doing it for looks.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My EK bridge would look the same regardless of series or parallel. *But I wanted Parallel to simplify my tubing runs off the GPU*. So I guess I am doing it for looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Another Solid Point. Same reason I tubed mine Parallel.

TCO


----------



## timerwin63

What's your guys' opinion on a semi-passive radiator, so to speak? Like, not _no_ airflow, but say, a top mounted slim 240 (sub-35mm) and a pair of bottom mounted fans in an SFF case. I'm thinking it might work, since the air has nowhere else to go, but I'm also worried about the inevitable leakage and whether enough air would go through the rad to properly cool my 4790k efficiently enough. Before anyone asks, no, I can't mount fans directly on the rad, as there's simply not enough space. I just want to know if the aforementioned plan would even be feasible.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah that makes sense also. +1 for the improvement


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A1. Love the Redo!
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Remind's me of Paul's Hardware's Arctic Panther. Looks nice!


Thanks everyone.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> so I solved the problem. When I emptied the reservoir I pumped air into the whole system to "pump" out all the water inside. Therefore air collected inside the rads and when I filled up the res the pump didn´t pumped water into the first res because there was too much air in the res which avoided to get the water in.
> I shaked the case and there we went
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gabrielzm has right, it´s not about how you set your custom water loop but there was too much air inside.
> But thanks for your help guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why do you have parallel flow? I thought it´s useless if you go for 2 way SLI...or did I miss something?


The difference is negligible. I did it for looks. I also have a serial bridge but this looks better IMO.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD!
> 
> Red candy over orange candy over bare metal.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Of course 3 way and 4 way would have higher restriction in serial. It will go up with GPU's. 2 way will have less that 3 way, but it's more restrictive than parallel. Like I said, I've only done parallel, for that reason alone.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's no temp difference between both for the most common applications. I've only seen series done better when you're pushing extremely heavy overclocks, pushing the thermal capabilities of water (short of using exotic cooling). Basically, there's no thermal gain going to either series or parallel. If you want the looks or care more about restriction, then make a choice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Exactly
> 
> TCO


I kinda hate you guys. i was going to loop my GPUs with tubing. now i want a terminal.. but it's 35$ .. stop shoving ideas to my head


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I kinda hate you guys. i was going to loop my GPUs with tubing. now i want a terminal.. but it's 35$ .. stop shoving ideas to my head


All you would need it 4 fittings. You don't need the terminal.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I kinda hate you guys. i was going to loop my GPUs with tubing. now i want a terminal.. but it's 35$ .. stop shoving ideas to my head


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> All you would need it 4 fittings. You don't need the terminal.


Depending on the fittings, it could be real close to $35 anyway... Just sayin..









Though you would still need two fittings.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Depending on the fittings, it could be real close to $35 anyway... Just sayin..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though you would still need two fittings.


Haha true. But there's only two ways... Fittings or terminal/bridge. One of the other.

I used the EK dual 3 slot terminal for my 780 setup, but now that I have a Titan X, as well as PETG and colored coolant, I may go with the tubing route (assuming I get another TX







)


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Haha true. But there's only two ways... Fittings or terminal/bridge. One of the other.
> 
> I used the EK dual 3 slot terminal for my 780 setup, but now that I have a Titan X, as well as PETG and colored coolant, I may go with the tubing route (assuming I get another TX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


loooooool anoter titanX? U mad mate


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> What's your guys' opinion on a semi-passive radiator, so to speak? Like, not _no_ airflow, but say, a top mounted slim 240 (sub-35mm) and a pair of bottom mounted fans in an SFF case. I'm thinking it might work, since the air has nowhere else to go, but I'm also worried about the inevitable leakage and whether enough air would go through the rad to properly cool my 4790k efficiently enough. Before anyone asks, no, I can't mount fans directly on the rad, as there's simply not enough space. I just want to know if the aforementioned plan would even be feasible.


in a SFF case, with an abundance of air pressure, It would theoretically work. It would need to be well sealed to achieve that. You would also want really low fin density on the rad. i would test with just the fans and see if you can feel the airflow before buying a rad. As long as your not overclocking it would work. Is there any way you can put fans on the other side of the rad in a pull config on the outside of the case? You could also mount the rad and fans on the outside of the case with a bracket, but that can look funny.


----------



## aairman712

I have a couple I have finished/redone recently.
I call this one the Bruise





That is an MSI Z97 SLI board 4690K 16 GB of ram and 2 290's in a Enthoo Luxe.

I just added another 780 to this one, so I redid most of the loop. I call her Bleeding heart.





It has an ASUS ROG Maximus VI formula, 32GB of ripjaws RAM, and EVGA 780's


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I kinda hate you guys. i was going to loop my GPUs with tubing. *now i want a terminal.. but it's 35$* .. stop shoving ideas to my head


I didn't use a terminal! Tube um how you like









TCO









EDIT: IT's good to be back


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I didn't use a terminal! Tube um how you like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: IT's good to be back


Thing is i've only 12 Fittings. and it's not feasible to get more now. hopefully a terminal open up on the market place i can use









How is your build going TCO? got your orings yet?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> loooooool anoter titanX? U mad mate


If I had the bucks I would throw it at two TitanX. Just so I could fold with those babies.















But right now I have to be happy with my two water cooled vanilla Titans, 960, and 980 STRIX.







Though, I am a little iffed that a 960 folding better than my Titans.

Then again the 960 and 980 are running under Ubuntu. (Yep, I don't game with them, FOLD, FOLD, FOLD 24/7!)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Thing is i've only 12 Fittings. and it's not feasible to get more now. hopefully a terminal open up on the market place i can use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is your build going TCO? got your orings yet?


*Just 12 fittings!!*









I was actually shocked while reading that ...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Thing is i've only 12 Fittings. and it's not feasible to get more now. hopefully a terminal open up on the market place i can use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is your build going TCO? got your orings yet?


The O Rings are in TN (About 6 hours away) They are due to arrive Tom







Very, Very, Excited









MY Order from PPC is at the PO box already. (Coolant, Led Extensions)

OH BOY!!!

TCO



In the Meantime, I've bought a Half/Hour Glass


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> *Just 12 fittings!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was actually shocked while reading that ...


12 fittings are for 2 Rads, 2 GPUs, CPU block and Pump Assembly. so that's 12 total. i need two more for parallel. And if u look at my build log you will know i've bought most of the stuff used off ocn








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The O Rings are in TN (About 6 hours away) They are due to arrive Tom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very, Very, Excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MY Order from PPC is at the PO box already. (Coolant, Led Extensions)
> 
> OH BOY!!!
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> In the Meantime, I've bought a Half/Hour Glass


LoL that Gour Glass... So Epic


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Meantime, I've bought a Half/Hour Glass


Nice hour glass.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> 12 fittings are for 2 Rads, 2 GPUs, CPU block and Pump Assembly. so that's 12 total. i need two more for parallel. And if u look at my build log you will know i've bought most of the stuff used off ocn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LoL that Gour Glass... So Epic


I couldn't pass it up. Went to target with my woman and it was the last one!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Nice hour glass.


I've wanted one for a loooong time!!

The Cautious One.

Going to moms for Dinner. Picked up a rabbit last weekend! So hungry


----------



## Ithanul

Mmmm, rabbit. When cooked right it is tasty. Though, I take deer meat over that any day. Then again some duck meat wrapped around mini hotdogs is very tasty.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> 12 fittings are for 2 Rads, 2 GPUs, CPU block and Pump Assembly. so that's 12 total. i need two more for parallel. And if u look at my build log you will know i've bought most of the stuff used off ocn


So you need 14 fittings for you whole build? Okay.

I did not understand your point, but whatever.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> So you need 14 fittings for you whole build? Okay.
> 
> I did not understand your point, but whatever.


check my build log and you will


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Going to moms for Dinner. Picked up a rabbit last weekend! So hungry
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Mmmm, rabbit. When cooked right it is tasty. Though, I take deer meat over that any day. Then again some duck meat wrapped around mini hotdogs is very tasty.
Click to expand...

Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......................I'll stick to In-N-Out


----------



## emsj86

They closed all the in and outs around my way. It's all wawa s and cheesesteaks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......................I'll stick to In-N-Out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> **


That's funny. My woman is from Cali and wolfed it down!









Come on Werm. You gota try stuff!

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......................I'll stick to In-N-Out


Hell yeah. Live about 5 miles away from one. Got to love California


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hell yeah. Live about 5 miles away from one. Got to love California


InO is one of the few things I miss about California. Need to road trip down to Redding one of these days to get some, it has been far too long


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Going to moms for Dinner. Picked up a rabbit last weekend! So hungry
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Mmmm, rabbit. When cooked right it is tasty. Though, I take deer meat over that any day. Then again some duck meat wrapped around mini hotdogs is very tasty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......................I'll stick to In-N-Out
Click to expand...

Oooh DoubleDouble w/cheese...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hell yeah. Live about 5 miles away from one. Got to love California
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> InO is one of the few things I miss about California. Need to road trip down to Redding one of these days to get some, it has been far too long
Click to expand...

£emme know when you go I will be in Vancouver an we can both make the road trip. Mebbe my wife will forgive me if I bring one back for her.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......................I'll stick to In-N-Out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I give they do have decent hamburgers. Though Me + wheat = sick as a dog for a few days.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The O Rings are in TN (About 6 hours away) They are due to arrive Tom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very, Very, Excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MY Order from PPC is at the PO box already. (Coolant, Led Extensions)
> 
> OH BOY!!!
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> In the Meantime, I've bought a Half/Hour Glass


For a sec I thought that was coolant in a pimped out res!


----------



## Hambone07si

Just finished the build for a buddy. Basically the same pc as mine but blue and with my old 780ti's instead of a Titan X. I put the same water loop in his pretty much, 360mm front, 240mm top, Aquacomputers 100ml res top on D5 Laing pumping away. Installing windows now on a 4 x 256gig SSD Raid 0 setup. Should be pretty fun







. I think he will be more than happy when he comes to pick this one up. He has no idea what he's really getting here, but I'm sure it will do just what he needs











Here's the back side of a 540 air with 6 hard drives wired, 2 x gpus, 6 fans, and a led strip, plus everything to the mobo. Only 4 ssd's are in the system, but 2 hot swap bays are active. This is how a pc gets wired for a customer


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> For a sec I thought that was coolant in a pimped out res!


Hmmm, that is not a bad idea. Be cool as heck if someone could make a hour glass res.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Just finished the build for a buddy. Basically the same pc as mine but blue and with my old 780ti's instead of a Titan X. I put the same water loop in his pretty much, 360mm front, 240mm top, Aquacomputers 100ml res top on D5 Laing pumping away. Installing windows now on a 4 x 256gig SSD Raid 0 setup. Should be pretty fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I think he will be more than happy when he comes to pick this one up. He has no idea what he's really getting here, but I'm sure it will do just what he needs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back side of a 540 air with 6 hard drives wired, 2 x gpus, 6 fans, and a led strip, plus everything to the mobo. Only 4 ssd's are in the system, but 2 hot swap bays are active. This is how a pc gets wired for a customer


Dam that rig sounds sweet! I'm sure your mate will love it!


----------



## Hambone07si

He dame sure better with how many hours I got into it







. I can't wait to get windows installed and run some benches on the 4x ssd raid 0


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, that is not a bad idea. Be cool as heck if someone could make a hour glass res.


Forget what thread it was on but someone made a res like this. Only difference was size and the middle spiritless into two different tubes going from the top to the bottom


----------



## p5ych00n5

NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, my fittings have been delayed for another day







. Got an email regretting that the fittings have been delayed and sorry for any inconvenience.

This means the rest of my order is trapped in limbo until they arrive, plus I have the next two days off work so it would have been perfect to finish my loop

_EDIT_

Now it seems they can't get any of the 90's I wanted in, so I've had to rejig my order to get others (sadpanda)


----------



## erso44

I can't mount my whole loop because I ordered somehow 15 fittings and forget only one. That's because I'm not able to sum. Therefor I had to order the last fitting and actually I'm waiting for it.

So don't cry haha my situation is worse as yours mate


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I can't mount my whole loop because I ordered somehow 15 fittings and forget only one. That's because I'm not able to sum. Therefor I had to order the last fitting and actually I'm waiting for it.
> 
> So don't cry haha my situation is worse as yours mate


Oooooh, waiting on a singular fitting would kill me *so close*









These are the 90's which are now EOL



And the new ones



I much prefer the design of the EOL's

And I almost ordered the Nickel variety, luckily I double checked when in the checkout


----------



## Gabrielzm

Look at what fedex just drop at my doorstep:





and here the test colors for the "Grey Matter" rads with the front panel


I almost feel bad to put that gorgeous front panel to the saw







but it will be worth to have the custom reservoir there.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Smell like gold. We have the O Rings!



TCO


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Oooooh, waiting on a singular fitting would kill me *so close*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the 90's which are now EOL
> 
> 
> 
> And the new ones
> 
> 
> 
> I much prefer the design of the EOL's
> 
> And I almost ordered the Nickel variety, luckily I double checked when in the checkout


I've been looking all over for the ek csq 90s. I know there eol but thought I could find them somewhere but no one has them. Sucks because I like the looks and don't know of ot will look good with the new ones in the same build


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Smell like gold. We have the O Rings!
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


ROFLMAO.gif


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I've been looking all over for the ek csq 90s. I know there eol but thought I could find them somewhere but no one has them. Sucks because I like the looks and don't know of ot will look good with the new ones in the same build


Yah the new 90's look like, well every other 90 on the market, I really like the style of the CSQ, closest I can think are the Monsoons but here at 15 dollars a pop each.........................


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Look at what fedex just drop at my doorstep:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here the test colors for the "Grey Matter" rads with the front panel
> 
> 
> I almost feel bad to put that gorgeous front panel to the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but it will be worth to have the custom reservoir there.


I reckon the airbrush version, it pops while still blending with the rest of the panel


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Smell like gold. We have the O Rings!
> 
> 
> 
> TCO




2nd CL case? Methinks you've become an addict


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......................I'll stick to In-N-Out


You haven't lived until you've had a double/double animal style. I have an In-N-Out down the street from me. Best burgers anywhere!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......................I'll stick to In-N-Out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You haven't lived until you've had a double/double animal style. I have an In-N-Out down the street from me. Best burgers anywhere!
Click to expand...

https://www.byronhamburgers.com/

I recommend the Oreo milkshake.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Serious question guys, should I upgrade my case from OG HAF-X, which I plan to mod with acrylic panels, or purchase new case


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> https://www.byronhamburgers.com/
> 
> I recommend the Oreo milkshake.


That sounds absolutely fantastic right now!!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Serious question guys, should I upgrade my case from OG HAF-X, which I plan to mod with acrylic panels, or purchase new case


I think keep the X and mod it. Plenty of room in it. Unless you're going GNTX system.

~Ceadder


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> That sounds absolutely fantastic right now!!!!!


I may not have In 'n' Out where I live, but we do have PBDI.

http://pilotbuttedrivein.com/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Smell like gold. We have the O Rings!
> 
> 
> 
> TCO




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You haven't lived until you've had a double/double animal style. I have an In-N-Out down the street from me. Best burgers anywhere!


Damn skippy







. The boss, w/ one in the oven, sent me on frequent runs, typically around midnight







. Cravings.....

I'm gonna confess, I don't dig the "special" sauce, just casssupssss for me is plenty.


----------



## taowulf

Double double animal style is my favorite, but they are not the best burgers anywhere.

But there is something special about the burger, some fresh cut fries and a milkshake.


----------



## PinzaC55

Last shot of my rig before she receives a heart transplant.



New heart.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Walkaround For anyone interested. Listening to Puscifer at the Moment. Going to start sticking the Darkside Leds.




TCO

(I want to get a shot outside but weather is no good)


----------



## Thrasher1016

Love Caselabs...

Nova series will be the third for me!

Love burgers...

Down here we're kinda jacked w/o InOut or JITB or any of the others, but we have BurgerFi, Five Guys, and SmashBurger, which are all great!

Thanks - T


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Walkaround For anyone interested. Listening to Puscifer at the Moment. Going to start sticking the Darkside Leds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> (I want to get a shot outside but weather is no good)


Keep dragging it outside the wife will come home to find you hunched over with your back blown out. Must weight a ton now


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Walkaround For anyone interested. Listening to Puscifer at the Moment. Going to start sticking the Darkside Leds.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> (I want to get a shot outside but weather is no good)


What's with the water dripping down at the bottom ledt (as seen from the motherboard side)?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What's with the water dripping down at the bottom ledt (as seen from the motherboard side)?


No water. What time are you seeing this in the vid? Im staring at this thing.. No Water.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No water. What time are you seeing this in the vid? Im staring at this thing.. No Water.
> 
> TCO


About 7-8 secs in? It's below the case where you got the last fan on the EK XTX rad. Is that a massive optical illusion or am I losing it?


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No water. What time are you seeing this in the vid? Im staring at this thing.. No Water.
> 
> TCO


at 0:07 water seems to be streaming off the table by the back end of the case


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> About 7-8 secs in? It's below the case where you got the last fan on the EK XTX rad. Is that a massive optical illusion or am I losing it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> at 0:07 water seems to be streaming off the table by the back end of the case


OH!! Yes. That is something with the Camera. Led from the fan is creating that. There is no water flowing out of this thing. Carpet is dry.. everything Dry.









I was concerned for a sec.









TCO


----------



## VSG

Good to know, I've seen people leave the drain port on similar rads open before


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Good to know, I've seen people leave the drain port on similar rads open before


Thanks for Pointing it out VSG. We are all good.

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks for Pointing it out VSG. We are all good.
> 
> TCO


WOHOOO.. time to kick some gaming behind


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Keep dragging it outside the wife will come home to find you hunched over with your back blown out. Must weight a ton now


I actually have yet to pick this up FIlled up with Liquid. I am slightly terrified.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> WOHOOO.. time to kick some gaming behind


Yes! I raced a little yesterday on "The Compromise" (Grid 2) Gorgeous at 1440P.

I am kinda ready to put the Pastel in this Rig....









TCO

Been running the loops since 0900


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I actually have yet to pick this up FIlled up with Liquid. I am slightly terrified.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! I raced a little yesterday on "The Compromise" (Grid 2) Gorgeous at 1440P.
> 
> I am kinda ready to put the Pastel in this Rig....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Been running the loops since 0900


I almost picked up Grid Autosports, but the new Project Cars just came out so I got that instead. Haven't played much yet tho.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I almost picked up Grid Autosports, but the new Project Cars just came out so I got that instead. Haven't played much yet tho.


Pretty amped to play Project Cars. I'll finally get the G27 out when the BOINC Pentathlon is over. The game looks absolutely incredible.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Pretty amped to play Project Cars. I'll finally get the G27 out when the BOINC Pentathlon is over. The game looks absolutely incredible.


I hope you enjoy that mate. You've been laying low for couple of day. hope you are doing great


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I hope you enjoy that mate. You've been laying low for couple of day. hope you are doing great


I definitely will, Ramz! Been quite busy around the house and outside enjoying the sunny weather. I'll probably pop on later this evening.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I definitely will, Ramz! Been quite busy around the house and outside enjoying the sunny weather. I'll probably pop on later this evening.


wishing you great times buddy.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Boom! Got some shots Inside the house with Outside lighting. Gota make stuff work with what you got.






Almost ready to drop the Coolant in.

TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> wishing you great times buddy.


Same to you, bud! I hope you're getting your rad situation sorted out.

Edit: Just saw your WTB thread update! Congrats!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Same to you, bud! I hope you're getting your rad situation sorted out.
> 
> Edit: Just saw your WTB thread update! Congrats!


@Faster_is_better Gave me sweet deal on a swiftech MCR-320 and an XSPC RS240.

can't wait to start working on this project.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> @Faster_is_better Gave me sweet deal on a swiftech MCR-320 and an XSPC RS240.
> 
> can't wait to start working on this project.


I saw his WTS thread for that Switech, that was a great deal! I'm probably just as excited for you to get your build going!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd CL case? Methinks you've become an addict


Lol I am assuming you were talking to me xNine. Yep...I think I am...worse there is a third incoming (x2m) for a htpc. This one (grey matter) is a working office build while chessboard is my home office. Here two shots of it side by side and one on top of the other:





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I reckon the airbrush version, it pops while still blending with the rest of the panel


Yep. That is the idea. You can also notice that the graffite can color is close to gunmetal but is not equal. So I need to search for a custom paint identical because that front panel is going to be cut down to install the custom acrylic reservoir there.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I may not have In 'n' Out where I live, but we do have PBDI.
> 
> http://pilotbuttedrivein.com/


Yeah, no IN 'n' Out here either. I have tried In 'n' Out, not bad hamburgers, but I will take Cheeburger Cheeburger hamburgers any day (even if I wind up sick from the bread). Love the fact they have a sign on their window warning that you will have to wait for the food to cook. Plus, they got like over 30+ different milkshakes and 20+ different toppings for a hamburger.







They even will let you put peanut butter on it or A1 steak sauce. They even go up to a one pound hamburger.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, no IN 'n' Out here either. I have tried In 'n' Out, not bad hamburgers, but I will take Cheeburger Cheeburger hamburgers any day (even if I wind up sick from the bread). Love the fact they have a sign on their window warning that you will have to wait for the food to cook. Plus, they got like over 30+ different milkshakes and 20+ different toppings for a hamburger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They even will let you put peanut butter on it or A1 steak sauce. They even go up to a one pound hamburger.


I went to a Cheeburger Cheeburger outside of Atlanta. Damn good burgers.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Same to you, bud! I hope you're getting your rad situation sorted out.
> 
> Edit: Just saw your WTB thread update! Congrats!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Faster_is_better Gave me sweet deal on a swiftech MCR-320 and an XSPC RS240.
> 
> can't wait to start working on this project.
Click to expand...

Lots of people want to see these projects through









A long time coming for a great member of the community. You deserve it friend.


----------



## SteezyTN

What do you guys think? First time doing PETG (hard tubing first time) and I think it's coming out pretty well. My 90 degree fittings are bugging me a little bit as some are chrome and the other are black chrome. No worries though. My Titan X is looking for a friend, and I haven't even used it yet (gaming wise). But if I do get another Titan X, I'll need a bigger PSU. That would mean that I need a bigger case, in which the CaseLabs SMA8 is calling my name


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Lots of people want to see these projects through
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A long time coming for a great member of the community. You deserve it friend.


Thanks man. i'm overwhelmed with the help i'm getting from you guys. really appreciated.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What do you guys think? First time doing PETG (hard tubing first time) and I think it's coming out pretty well. My 90 degree fittings are bugging me a little bit as some are chrome and the other are black chrome. No worries though. My Titan X is looking for a friend, and I haven't even used it yet (gaming wise). But if I do get another Titan X, I'll need a bigger PSU. That would mean that I need a bigger case, in which the CaseLabs SMA8 is calling my name


Rig look GREAT man!!









That AX860i would be completely fine for 2 TX's in sli. No problem at all. Not like you have some POS psu there bud. 2 TX's in sli and full water loop would be under 700w most likely unless you were dumping 1.4v in to them and running 1600mhz on both. But I don't think you would have a problem at all. I was running my 2 gtx 780ti's in sli and full custom loop with 10 fans, 2 pumps, overclocked 4790K @ 4.7ghz and my 780ti's were on custom bios I made that let them have 120% Power Limit and running 1254mhz no throttling (which would be close to a TX running 1500mhz+ with custom bios) at all and that setup was pulling just around 700w-725w Running benchmarks. Gaming was a little less. You should be fine IMO. It is always better to run your system at 50% of what your psu is rated for if you want it to be more efficient, but those Corsair AX series are great and can run at 100% of their rated power with no problems from all the reviews I've seen on them. On my AX1200, they were pulling 1500w for 3 hours in the one review and it had no issues. I'm sure that 860i could handle around 1000w before not liking it. At least I would hope so with how the other have all done.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well first time using acrylic tubing:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well first time using acrylic tubing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/CENTER
> 
> 
> ]


simple and clean. I like it. Specially the 45 degrees coming from gpu.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Trying to use as few adapters as I can, thanks


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Rig look GREAT man!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That AX860i would be completely fine for 2 TX's in sli. No problem at all. Not like you have some POS psu there bud. 2 TX's in sli and full water loop would be under 700w most likely unless you were dumping 1.4v in to them and running 1600mhz on both. But I don't think you would have a problem at all. I was running my 2 gtx 780ti's in sli and full custom loop with 10 fans, 2 pumps, overclocked 4790K @ 4.7ghz and my 780ti's were on custom bios I made that let them have 120% Power Limit and running 1254mhz no throttling (which would be close to a TX running 1500mhz+ with custom bios) at all and that setup was pulling just around 700w-725w Running benchmarks. Gaming was a little less. You should be fine IMO. It is always better to run your system at 50% of what your psu is rated for if you want it to be more efficient, but those Corsair AX series are great and can run at 100% of their rated power with no problems from all the reviews I've seen on them. On my AX1200, they were pulling 1500w for 3 hours in the one review and it had no issues. I'm sure that 860i could handle around 1000w before not liking it. At least I would hope so with how the other have all done.


I'm slightly confused and maybe you can shed some light on it. You say 2 titan x will work on a 860psu he has there. Maybe in wrong but I just recently put a second 780 in for sli and I have a seasonic 850w bronze psu and while I can run at 1.21 v and stock clocks I had to buy a bigger psu because when I oc to 1.3 and 1300mhz I will become unstable and at times crash. I solved this with buying a cm v1000 which I still need to install. But wouldn't two titan x pull as much if not more. Note cpu 4790k 1.3 v 4.8 oc. On top of that it became pretty loud as the psu during benchmarks would really ramp up the fan. The exact psu is seasonic 850w bronze m12i semi modular


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm slightly confused and maybe you can shed some light on it. You say 2 titan x will work on a 860psu he has there. Maybe in wrong but I just recently put a second 780 in for sli and I have a seasonic 850w bronze psu and while I can run at 1.21 v and stock clocks I had to buy a bigger psu because when I oc to 1.3 and 1300mhz I will become unstable and at times crash. I solved this with buying a cm v1000 which I still need to install. But wouldn't two titan x pull as much if not more. Note cpu 4790k 1.3 v 4.8 oc. On top of that it became pretty loud as the psu during benchmarks would really ramp up the fan. The exact psu is seasonic 850w bronze m12i semi modular


860w is perfectly fine. I wont be running them at 1.3+ either way because I don't have enough radiators. I like to keep my fans silent. My entire build is a little less than $5,000. I may as well just purchase a Caselabs SMA8 alongside an AX1200i or something like that (assuming I put 1.3v+)


----------



## wermad

50% of the psu use only???? You need a kill-a-watt and some simple math to gauge power consumption. At stock, TX should be ~250w, so sli plus a Haswell system should pull ~750w. X79/99 should be closer to 800w. At stock with my full wc setup, I pulled 1200w at the wall while benching. If we only keep to this 50% proposal, i would need 2k-2.2k .....????

My recommendation, if you plan on extreme overclocking on the gpu's, go with extreme psu needs (ie add 50-75% to the stock needs). I know TSM pulled close to 1500w (@ the kill-a-watt if I recall) on a heavy oc'd xfire Hawaii x79 setup. Mind you, he's gunning for world records. Not going this high? Add 25-50%.

Btw, I luv the single TX builds with an ax1500


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, unless you going to having full load on those all the time. I currently got a 980 OCed and a 960 going full out atm. They running off a Termaltake Black Widow 850W that got some age.

If I remember right Darkness Sakura running four 980s, and last time I remember him posting saying they only where using around 650W while folding.

Kind of the reason I am debating about either getting a 2nd 980 or nab me a Titan X for the fact it probably pull less juice compared to my two vanilla Titans (Dang stinkers almost hogging up my UPS, me need a bigger UPS).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 50% of the psu???? You need a kill-a-watt and some simple math to gauge power consumption. At stock, TX should be ~250w, so sli plus a Haswell system should pull ~750w. X79/99 should be closer to 800w. At stock with my full wc setup, I pulled 1200w at the wall while benching.
> 
> My recommendation, if you plan on extreme overclocking on the gpu's, go with extreme psu needs (ie add 50-75% to the stock needs). I know TSM pulled close to 1500w on a heavy oc'd xfire Hawaii x79 setup. Mind you, he's gunning for world records. Not going this high? Add 25-50%.
> 
> Btw, I luv the single TX builds with an ax1500


I haven't even used the TX I got last week since I'm still putting up my loop. Now I ordered another one and backplate/waterblock. I should've just ordered them at the same time. Now I have an SC and non SC card haha. I really hope these TX SLI last me a couple years. At $5000 USD in a year, my stomach feels numb haha


----------



## wermad

This stuff is addicting







.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I haven't even used the TX I got last week since I'm still putting up my loop. Now I ordered another one and backplate/waterblock. I should've just ordered them at the same time. Now I have an SC and non SC card haha. I really hope these TX SLI last me a couple years. At $5000 USD in a year, my stomach feels numb haha


Blah, 5 grand ain't nothing. Complain when ya drop 2 grand on a Cintiq monitor.







If I count all my monitors and my main rig well. That probably near or over 7 or 8 grand. Add my other rig in then definitely over 8 grand. Indeed it is addicting, only my addiction to art supplies comes close (I'm not joking either, I got a 500 dollar stretch canvas I am still planning to paint on that not including the oil paint).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Blah, 5 grand ain't nothing. Complain when ya drop 2 grand on a Cintiq monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I count all my monitors and my main rig well. That probably near or over 7 or 8 grand. Add my other rig in then definitely over 8 grand. Indeed it is addicting, only my addiction to art supplies comes close (I'm not joking either, I got a 500 dollar stretch canvas I am still planning to paint on that not including the oil paint).


I'm at 5 grand and I'm running a 4770k and vi hero. For that price, I should be using X99 or X79 haha. My watercooling parts alone are $1300 including the two TX water blocks and backplates.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This stuff is addicting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


But sure do I love it







. Maybe later I'll sell the 4770k and go 5930k and ddr4. Who knows with me.


----------



## wermad

Why k, go for 5960x


----------



## DarthBaggins

personally I'd wait for the next 8core to drop


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, I'm holding out. By then though, I will probably have 15k burning a major hole in my pocket.







I seriously don't know if I can keep myself from going crazy on a lot of tech goodies when I get that bonus.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 50% of the psu use only???? You need a kill-a-watt and some simple math to gauge power consumption. At stock, TX should be ~250w, so sli plus a Haswell system should pull ~750w. X79/99 should be closer to 800w. At stock with my full wc setup, I pulled 1200w at the wall while benching. If we only keep to this 50% proposal, i would need 2k-2.2k .....????
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My recommendation, if you plan on extreme overclocking on the gpu's, go with extreme psu needs (ie add 50-75% to the stock needs). I know TSM pulled close to 1500w (@ the kill-a-watt if I recall) on a heavy oc'd xfire Hawaii x79 setup. Mind you, he's gunning for world records. Not going this high? Add 25-50%.
> 
> Btw, I luv the single TX builds with an ax1500


Having a kill-a-watt helps to gauge your wattage consumption.

My 3930k OC to 4.5 Ghz + (2) 290 OC to 1100/1300 pulls 890+ watts playing BF4.

I see 905+ watts when doing unigine for OC stability.

My 1300 eVGA PSU handles it very well. Im sure it can handle another 290 with mild OC, but i dont feel like replacing my 900 watt UPS.


----------



## wermad

Don't forget to factor in efficiency from your total at the kill-a-watt (or your meter). My 1200w peak during benching factors in ~1050w from the system, still within range of my 1600 Lepa.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm happy with my v850 has handled all I've thrown at it so far


----------



## Gabrielzm

Guys someone was hunting down a MIPS ICEFORCE HF block but I can remember who it was. Just to let a note here that I found a shop which still have some small quantity by accident (was searching for the mounting instructions on socket 2011). Send me a PM if you read this. The store is Europe located but ship fast and have used before.

edit - BTW anyone still have the MIPS iceforce HF mounting instructions by any chance? can't find mine sheet...


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think keep the X and mod it. Plenty of room in it. Unless you're going GNTX system.
> 
> ~Ceadder










. ATM I have both the top and front panels rmovd so it's just a "box" at the moment


----------



## emsj86

All the while I thinking I spent too much on the new acer 1440p g sync monitor at. 800 lol


----------



## p5ych00n5

Huzzah, my 5ittings hav3 shipp3d, sorry bork3d KB


----------



## bundymania

http://community.thermaltake.com/index.php?/topic/1438-germany-andy-weber-bundymania/


----------



## wermad

Nice, you have a Z97 w/ black heatsink???


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Its tedious For sure...one run you should revisit is cpu to res. It looks like you had it perfect except you cut the res side too short and made the tube slant downward, unless its the angle. Nice work tho!











More pics... Redid the tubing run from the CPU to the res as suggested... Waiting on some angled fitting from PPCs for the 2nd GPU to 240 bottom rad and back up to the pump...
Already have the bend for the later... Last but not the least would be the bend from the top rad to the CPU. I can't wait! OCD on overdrive...


----------



## cgull

mmm @bundymania

black edition of a z97x wifi blk? very nice.. did u get the hen's teeth and hobby horse poo that comes with it?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics... Redid the tubing run from the CPU to the res as suggested... Waiting on some angled fitting from PPCs for the 2nd GPU to 240 bottom rad and back up to the pump...
> Already have the bend for the later... Last but not the least would be the bend from the top rad to the CPU. I can't wait! OCD on overdrive...


You're a champion!!!! 100% better


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice, you have a Z97 w/ black heatsink???


It´s the "Ultra" Black Version !







Foiled and painted. Just have a look in my worklog


----------



## YOUDFDO

If you look at my Avatar you will see what I did to repair a poorly made dual pump reservoirs Model RP 452x2 dual I simply added model TNK to the top of the poorly designed Koolance Model RP 452x2 dual. Above that I added my light and fan controler. As the Koolance so called fix puts the Pumps on the One way your never suppose to run those pumps. I love my setup No air bleed problems at all . Both reservoirs were easy to mate . It turned out rather nice . My grandson is building a custom case with Skylake GT4e when its released in 1st qt 2016. He will use the same setup .He is only 7 years old but IQ of 145. 4 th grade already


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://community.thermaltake.com/index.php?/topic/1438-germany-andy-weber-bundymania/


Holy balls. Thermaltake have certainly stepped up their game


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Guys someone was hunting down a MIPS ICEFORCE HF block but I can remember who it was. Just to let a note here that I found a shop which still have some small quantity by accident (was searching for the mounting instructions on socket 2011). Send me a PM if you read this. The store is Europe located but ship fast and have used before.
> 
> edit - BTW anyone still have the MIPS iceforce HF mounting instructions by any chance? can't find mine sheet...











I wasn't the one who mentioned looking for one before, but i would love to find another one to use on my Sabranco board. Maybe you could pm me if they are still available?









Edit: a hopefully better pic


----------



## YOUDFDO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Boom! Got some shots Inside the house with Outside lighting. Gota make stuff work with what you got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost ready to drop the Coolant in.
> 
> TCO


Nice work . White its just so clean a look


----------



## p5ych00n5

Yet to fine tune.........


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YOUDFDO*
> 
> Nice work . White its just so clean a look


Well thank Ya!!!








How about we add a Little Colour?

The Cautious One


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics... Redid the tubing run from the CPU to the res as suggested... Waiting on some angled fitting from PPCs for the 2nd GPU to 240 bottom rad and back up to the pump...
> Already have the bend for the later... Last but not the least would be the bend from the top rad to the CPU. I can't wait! OCD on overdrive...


That is nice, 800D really reminds me about the LD Cooling PC-V8 (only that the PC-V8 is better)









Although, get rid of the fan-grills (why do you have them?







), turn the fans on the 360 in the top to push and it is perfect!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't the one who mentioned looking for one before, but i would love to find another one to use on my Sabranco board. Maybe you could pm me if they are still available?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: a hopefully better pic[IMG
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2451754/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


Ah nice mate. I appreciate the instructions. you got PM and +rep for the instructions


----------



## gdubc

Ouch! $30 to ship just the iceforce block.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think keep the X and mod it. Plenty of room in it. Unless you're going GNTX system.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . ATM I have both the top and front panels rmovd so it's just a "box" at the moment
Click to expand...

Nice, my 932 is less than a box ATM. No MB tray in place. No HDD rack, no 5.25 bay either.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Anyone running a dimastech (or similar) radiator shroud? Looking for pics of how it attaches to the fan/rad setup.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running a dimastech (or similar) radiator shroud? Looking for pics of how it attaches to the fan/rad setup.


Not yet but incidentally just ordered one today for this:


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not yet but incidentally just ordered one today for this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


is that a painted typhon?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> is that a painted typhon?


Yep. That was the prototype of the current build (grey matter). I have some in black and white too on another build (chessboard).


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. That was the prototype of the current build (grey matter). I have some in black and white too on another build (chessboard).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


awesome. did you use plastidip? i've read bad stories about painting fans making them imbalanced if the coats are not. how easy/hard was it


----------



## Ithanul

Really should get around to painting my typhoons considering I did nab six more for like 60 bucks.


----------



## wermad

Killer deal on GT's









@Gabe, tnx mate! I'll look forward to your updates


----------



## erso44

Here are some pictures of my mobo, gpu and the new fittings. I love the military style with silver fittings








I had to cut the big heatsink...










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













Conclusion to mobo cooling: My mosfet getting extremly hot! you can not touch the cooling plate anymore. But temps are now better. I got only one problem now. Through the small cooling plate my chokes are getting very hot and at 5 giga I reach 75°C+. Actually you can see on the picture there is no cooling plate on the chokes but only on the mosfets







Therefor I contacted Asus to give me information about TUF chokes operation temperature. I dont have any fans at my rad --> no airflow in case. Well maybe I dont need that (?) ...and well at the end it was worth it to buy a mobo cooling kit because for a daily use of 5 giga I need that.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> awesome. did you use plastidip? i've read bad stories about painting fans making them imbalanced if the coats are not. how easy/hard was it


Yep spend years hearing the same stories and cowering in fear...Then I realized I spend so much time and money trying to find a substitute for it for every build in the color I want and only getting sub par performance. Further, I had like 18 just sitting there waiting to be painted. The white and black were painted using plasti dip. Since then I improved on things by using a sealent first, primer and then normal paint. Now I am using just the sealent+ primer (both in can) and then using a custom color paint on the airbrush I got. Cover is amazingly thin this way and I am certainly not worried about balance. Even the plastidip I could not detect any signature difference in the sound of the painted against the original.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Really should get around to painting my typhoons considering I did nab six more for like 60 bucks.


Yep. Do it. It is not that difficult. If need help just ask here or in the grey matter build log.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Killer deal on GT's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Gabe, tnx mate! I'll look forward to your updates


Yep. As soon as I get it Wer I will take some pictures and send your way.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep spend years hearing the same stories and cowering in fear...Then I realized I spend so much time and money trying to find a substitute for it for every build in the color I want and only getting sub par performance. Further, I had like 18 just sitting there waiting to be painted. The white and black were painted using plasti dip. Since then I improved on things by using a sealent first, primer and then normal paint. Now I am using just the sealent+ primer (both in can) and then using a custom color paint on the airbrush I got. Cover is amazingly thin this way and I am certainly not worried about balance. Even the plastidip I could not detect any signature difference in the sound of the painted against the original.
> Yep. Do it. It is not that difficult. If need help just ask here or in the grey matter build log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. As soon as I get it Wer I will take some pictures and send your way.


That's sweet but using air brush takes lots of time doesn't it?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Killer deal on GT's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Gabe, tnx mate! I'll look forward to your updates


Should of nab the other six that the person was selling, but that one was a little more heated on eBay.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> That's sweet but using air brush takes lots of time doesn't it?


for small things like fans no, not really. With plastidip I need 3 to 4 passes with the Can. That meant a lot of time because you need to wait for the cure. With the sealent+primer is literally 2 minutes for the sealent per fan. wait 10 minutes. Another 2 minutes for the primer. wait 30 minutes. Then the airbrush that takes about 5-10 minutes per fan but only one pass and in 10 minutes is dry and ready to manipulate. Besides there is the quality difference between the brush and can. I thought you saw that but I did post some pictures of the two finishes here for an ek rad. Excuse folks that already saw that pictures but here we go:



the graphitte/gunmetal is can painted the grey one is airbrush







clik on it and zoom in and you will see what I mean.

edit - But in any case if you want to take the route of painting the fans I will prefer the sealent+primer+paint route even if using Can based paint. The finish is better and thin compared to plasti dip and seems a lot more durable too.


----------



## Ramzinho

despite the grey one looking white to me "maybe i'm color blind" but the finish looks way way better. tighter and cleaner. what type of colors you use with the air brush?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> despite the grey one looking white to me "maybe i'm color blind" but the finish looks way way better. tighter and cleaner. what type of colors you use with the air brush?


that is another advantage you can create you own colors since you can mix paint in any way you want. I made that grey using white and black paint mixed. Really it looks white to you? Is this same rad and fan:


----------



## Ramzinho

the case looks so grey. the fan/rad looks ******. maybe it's the camera flash i don't know.

What type of paint you use? i'm interested in this. and i think wife has an air brush but don't know if the compressor is working or busted


----------



## Ithanul

That is a extremely light gray. I can see why it can look white near darker colors.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> the case looks so grey. the fan/rad looks ******. maybe it's the camera flash i don't know.
> 
> What type of paint you use? i'm interested in this. and i think wife has an air brush but don't know if the compressor is working or busted


normal paint for metal. Nothing fancy. Mixed on a 1:1 ratio to thinner.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I don't think I've posted a picture with my computer finished, so here it is. I'm really happy with how it turned out.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> normal paint for metal. Nothing fancy. Mixed on a 1:1 ratio to thinner.


even for the fans?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running a dimastech (or similar) radiator shroud? Looking for pics of how it attaches to the fan/rad setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet but incidentally just ordered one today for this:
Click to expand...

Which shroud did you order,

I was thinking of this one when I made the suggestion, it's clear acrylic, but you could paint it if you wanted.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-120x120x20mm-radiator-shroud-plexi.html

It looks like this with a pair on a 240 rad:



Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Which shroud did you order,
> 
> I was thinking of this one when I made the suggestion, it's clear acrylic, but you could paint it if you wanted.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-120x120x20mm-radiator-shroud-plexi.html
> 
> It looks like this with a pair on a 240 rad:
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Yeah I saw that one. I ordered the dismatech one 240 mm:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiator-accessories/dimastech-radext-240-universal-shroud-for-radiator.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> even for the fans?


yep. Because the sealent creates the layer which the paint will adhere. Then you use the primer upon that. The primer essentially make ready for any type of paint. Here is a small experiment with a white fan along with the grey. I guess it is a light grey but you can see the difference under the same illumination:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Anyone Know where to find an AARP HD Audio extension Cable?

I Have a Thread for it

Im a little short



TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well thank Ya!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we add a Little Colour?
> 
> The Cautious One


Suddenly, I'm craving Jamba Juice; wheat grass + carrot juice


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Suddenly, I'm craving Jamba Juice; wheat grass + carrot juice


I miss me some Jamba Juice. Wish they bring them to the South. Plus miss Mongolian BBQ too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Benny Haha's too. Oh! And Tony Roma's too!









~Caddell


----------



## Hambone07si

is everyone else getting the stupid annoying video adds on the side that won't let you read the pages right and keeps pulling you up to the video every 10 seconds? I am getting really annoyed and it's been like this for about a week or so I think. What the heck is with that? Can I disable it somehow? I don't think I can really, looked in my browser settings and the box is checked for pop up adds, but I don't think it's a pop up. It's making OCN not even usable really. Anyone, please help LOL. I'm using Firefox as my browser. Does a different one not do that?


----------



## Ceadderman

I wouldn't know. I have my OCN clocked account so I can set it to no ads and if I didn't I would run ABP on my browser anyway. Lemme log out an I will see what's what... Although I am currently on mobile.

~Ceadder


----------



## DLTank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> is everyone else getting the stupid annoying video adds on the side that won't let you read the pages right


I haven't noticed anything like that... I would say to try a different browser or check your machine for malware...


----------



## fast_fate

I have FireFox running normally and haven't experienced anything like that.
Normal browsing here


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't know. I have my OCN clocked account so I can set it to no ads and if I didn't I would run ABP on my browser anyway. Lemme log out an I will see what's what... Although I am currently on mobile.
> 
> ~Ceadder


actually I think I just found a way. At the top of the thread once inside one, above the first post on a page there's a Preferences tab to click, click that and then there's an option to hide the right column. I checked hide it and so far it's not happened. I hope this stays like that, but I liked the stuff on the side sometimes showing you who's on the thread and whatnot. That was driving me INSANE







. A buddy went on OCN at his place and said it was doing the same thing so it wasn't just me lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DLTank*
> 
> I haven't noticed anything like that... I would say to try a different browser or check your machine for malware...


No malware. Fresh OS install. About to do another fresh install in a day or 2 when I setup my new raid 0 with 4x ssd drives or 6x. Not sure how many I want to do yet. I'm still testing this pc I built for a buddy and put 4x ssd raid 0 in it and it's insanely fast. He had some cheaper samsung drives that only get about 400mb/s (395mb/s fastest I seen so far on single drive) , but with testing the 4x ssd raid 0, it's getting over 100% scaling at 1690mb/s which is crazy. I didn't think the scaling would be better than a single drives max, but it is. I was told a few times that you can only get 1.5-1.6gb/s, even after I showed a pic of the results, they told me you can't go any higher than 1.5-1.6gb/s when the pic shows 1.7gb/s LOL. I just want to see the max I can get on 4 or 6 ssds


Also been testing my water cooling setup that I have just put in the past week or so and did some cpu overclocking to put it to the test. I put a new 4790K in my pc and started to crank that puppy up. 48x boot, 49x boot (old wouldn't do that on 1.4v) , 50x booted







and that was with only 1.350v so great. I have turned off HT tho because seeing the review and performance tests and it showing that GTA V is getting higher min fps with having HT off by a good amount. Avg fps was a tad bit higher too. so started testing the 5ghz HT off overclock and was hitting just shy of 70c on the hottest core. Ran my quick stability test at 1.350v and passed







, drop Vcore or raise multi? I decided to drop Vcore and see what happens. Next tried 1.325v and passed. Then tried 1.300v and passed







now I'm thinking wow, nice chip! Went ahead and tried 1.275v but failed after 4min of my quick test, was gonna say tho if that passed. Went back in bios and enabled my XMP profile for 2400mhz c11 on 32gigs (4x8) with all slots loaded, and brought back up to 1.300v and ran stability test again and what do you know, she passed with only hitting 66c on the hottest core and mostly sitting in the mid 50's!! Wow this custom loop is working like crazy. Best results I've ever seen personally for a 5ghz Haswell (DC) chip. Also doing so with my system almost dead silent with the 5 Noctua NF-F12's running at only 900rpm set through my fan controller. Not sure what part of the loop is making such a huge difference or whether it's just the whole loop in all, but with the EK PE 240mm and 360mm rads, temps are amazing. Went ahead and ran a bunch of benchmarks to test stability also, Firestrike, AvP, FF XIV, Heaven, and Valley. All of them passed and cpu temps only hit 55c after running em all. Titan X never broke 40c, was 36c max that I saw, might of went to 37c for a sec when I was looking at the screen and not my keyboard. I am amazed at this new chip and may try going above 5ghz or trying to lower Vcore a little more and play with some other voltages, but temps are so good that I think I could go higher and get a 5.2ghz bench overclock or something, maybe more haha.

Here's a pic of after running the test with the XMP enabled at 2400mhz 32gigs, 5ghz 1.300v HT off 66c max temp . Man do I love water cooling. So much ability with it.


Oh, and TCO, great looking setup bud







. Love the way it turned out with the dual colours haha. Looks really nice and clean the way you set that up. Grats to you man!! Making me want to order up another EK X-res 140 top for my other D5 pump, and then put 2 of those in my system, but I will need a different case that the 540 air. I have mine about as stuffed as you can get it with the dual pumps and rads now, but I'm not using any D5's in here right now. Still using my EK X-res 100ml 2.2 pump along with the Phobya DC12-260. Both of those can come out and go with dual EK 140's with D5's and have something along the lines of what you did there. Mine will be different and would hope to look as nice and clean as yours, but will be hard for me because I can't wait as long as you did lol I want it all yesterday. Thinking about the Core X9 like Wermad has and a couple others. That thing has a ton of room and seeing a few builds online, I can probably work with that.

Anyone got any other good case recommendations for doing a dual loop system? I have a 240mm, 2 x 360mm, and a quad 60mm thick 480mm rad. I have plenty of rads that's for sure. For only having 1 gpu (TX) and cpu to cool, I would still like to use a few of them. Was thinking if I make the change to a different case that I would put my Maximus VI Formula mobo on the loop, and possibly order a block for my 32gigs of 2400mhz ram as well. Would give me more of an excuse to do dual loops and use more of my rads lol. I've seen some nice cases some of you have, but not sure what the names are? What case are you rocking there TCO? What about Caselabs? I know those are pretty expensive, but hell, I have enough money wrapped up in my system now and with all the extra parts to go in the next build, why not get a expensive Caselabs or even maybe a Mountain Mods, but those really are that appealing to me anymore. They need to do a new style and change it up a bit.

Also have thought about making a custom case that is pretty good size out of some good aluminum, plexi, or whatever I would need. I work at a Fab shop that is pretty big and we send out stuff to get powder coated every week and could make a pretty slick case if I knew what I wanted. I'm gonna check out Caselabs and see what they got but would love some ideas from you guys if you know something off hand that would work for what I want to do. Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Suddenly, I'm craving Jamba Juice; wheat grass + carrot juice


Thanks Werm! Only you would think of the Carrot Juice!

TCO

(Typing to you on "The Division" Now)


----------



## Jameswalt1

I just finished the pair of Parvum prizes for Nvidia's "Share Every Win" competition... H100i's, but still









http://www.geforce.com/shadowplay-share-every-win-contest-battlefield-hardline


----------



## inedenimadam

Impressive work there James!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I just finished the pair of Parvum prizes for Nvidia's "Share Every Win" competition... H100i's, but still
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.geforce.com/shadowplay-share-every-win-contest-battlefield-hardline


Holy Khrewuyst! James!


----------



## wermad

@ JW "It's over 9000!!!!!!!!!!!1" X2


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I just finished the pair of Parvum prizes for Nvidia's "Share Every Win" competition... H100i's, but still
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.geforce.com/shadowplay-share-every-win-contest-battlefield-hardline


Hot damn.


----------



## Ceadderman

Glad to hear that you got it Ham. I checked on my phone but it's in mobile so there wasn't anything that would show up anyway.









So yes I tried. But it was FAILsauce.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah I saw that one. I ordered the dismatech one 240 mm:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiator-accessories/dimastech-radext-240-universal-shroud-for-radiator.html
> yep. Because the sealent creates the layer which the paint will adhere. Then you use the primer upon that. The primer essentially make ready for any type of paint. Here is a small experiment with a white fan along with the grey. I guess it is a light grey but you can see the difference under the same illumination:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now i see the difference.


----------



## emsj86

well this stinks


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> well this stinks


That sucks dude


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> well this stinks


did u over tighten the compressions?


----------



## ReXtN

Just rebuilded my WC layout because of a HW change. Going from a 780Ti which i killed to Strix 970's in SLI








I have to move the bottom graphics card down where the Sounndcard is because it is now placed in a PCIe x4 slot.. *facepalm* So i have to change the loop a bit when i get home today. Luckily i got a bit of extra hardline tubing laying around ^^

Here are some pics as of now


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReXtN*
> 
> Just rebuilded my WC layout because of a HW change. Going from a 780Ti which i killed to Strix 970's in SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to move the bottom graphics card down where the Sounndcard is because it is now placed in a PCIe x4 slot.. *facepalm* So i have to change the loop a bit when i get home today. Luckily i got a bit of extra hardline tubing laying around ^^
> 
> Here are some pics as of now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are you sure you have enough rad space?


----------



## SteezyTN

So i have my second Titan X coming this week. Is it best to run serial or parallel using 3 rads and a D5 pump? I went ahead and placed an order for 4 more fittings for parallel, but if I go serial, I'll cancel the order and just get two (Primochill revolver 4 pack).


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So i have my second Titan X coming this week. Is it best to run serial or parallel using 3 rads and a D5 pump? I went ahead and placed an order for 4 more fittings for parallel, but if I go serial, I'll cancel the order and just get two (Primochill revolver 4 pack).


this has been the discussion of the week







... serial has a bit more flow restriction and the D5 might struggle. if you had a DDC it would may have been fine. Parallel has less flow restriction so i would go with that.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I just finished the pair of Parvum prizes for Nvidia's "Share Every Win" competition... H100i's, but still
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.geforce.com/shadowplay-share-every-win-contest-battlefield-hardline
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm finally happy that I have my Ghetto hardline done, and then I see builds like these









In other news leak testing has commenced


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> well this stinks


Another reason to go with full copper/nickel blocks, you can tighten them pretty much all day without breaking anything (other than threads if you are really overdoing it).








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReXtN*
> 
> Just rebuilded my WC layout because of a HW change. Going from a 780Ti which i killed to Strix 970's in SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to move the bottom graphics card down where the Sounndcard is because it is now placed in a PCIe x4 slot.. *facepalm* So i have to change the loop a bit when i get home today. Luckily i got a bit of extra hardline tubing laying around ^^
> 
> Here are some pics as of now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I am doing the same "upgrade", only EVGA-cards and no water.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> well this stinks


I know I had a lot of issues with thread incompatibility when using Primochill fittings...was it hard to screw in?


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> well this stinks


This is what scares me about acrylic.

It definitely stinks emsj86. Sorry to see that.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> well this stinks
> 
> 
> 
> This is what scares me about acrylic.
> 
> It definitely stinks emsj86. Sorry to see that.
Click to expand...

I've been using Bitspower and E22 in my hardlined builds, no issues save for a leaky fitting. Strange thing was that it didn't leak while running, only when not running. Some kind of weird pressure abnormality. Replaced the O-ring and it was fine.


----------



## mus1mus

I have those same Primochill fittings.

They work just fine til you tighten them down thinking they're not yet that tight. They're using fat single O-rings that holds quite good.

Once you undo them, the grip is so tight that it forces unthreading off the fitting from the block that in turn, pushes the block by a few mils.

Enough to cause issues on the weak parts.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> this has been the discussion of the week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... serial has a bit more flow restriction and the D5 might struggle. if you had a DDC it would may have been fine. Parallel has less flow restriction so i would go with that.


Lol I know. I was even involved in the discussion







but I'm asking because I have never used the fitting/tubing route. My last SLI setup was using an EK parallel terminal. And I'm pretty sure the DDC is worse than the D5 (from my understanding). I have the D5 photon. I went ahead and ordered the 4 fittings, because I also ordered the TX waterblock. The waterblock is on backorder, so when it comes in stock, I may call and have them 2 day ship it.


----------



## Goofy Flow

Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA


----------



## p5ych00n5

Trying out paint pens.........


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> did u over tighten the compressions?


I guess I did but I had this for almost 6 months now. @bnegative it went in pretty well from what I remember. Possibly I over tighten and just now it's showing up. I bought a replacement. Was tempted to get the full nickel or black version but figure I have the plexi sli bridge so didn't want to mess with the looks


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I guess I did but I had this for almost 6 months now


I'm sorry to hear that man.. i wish you the best. i think you can order a spare part for that acrylic top


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I guess I did but I had this for almost 6 months now


I don't think over tightening the compression caps did it. I am pretty sure the over tightending the fittings was the issue.


----------



## emsj86

That's what I meant. Because I did use that stupid cheap tool it came with to tighten the fitting down. And yea I bought the upgrade kit which includes the top to save 40 dollars. Now I can't feel the cracks from the outside. I'm sure it's better to just shut her down


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's what I meant. Because I did use that stupid cheap tool it came with to tighten the fitting down. And yea I bought the upgrade kit which includes the top to save 40 dollars. Now I can't feel the cracks from the outside. I'm sure it's better to just shut her down


i would do so to prevent any disaster. and change that top man


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's what I meant. Because I did use that stupid cheap tool it came with to tighten the fitting down. And yea I bought the upgrade kit which includes the top to save 40 dollars. Now I can't feel the cracks from the outside. I'm sure it's better to just shut her down


Set the top on fire before a REAL problem occurs.

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Set the top on fire before a REAL problem occurs.
> 
> TCO


:S stop spreading your crazy thoughts man


----------



## emsj86

Is it me or pc hardware in general have more problems than any other thing outthere. Between parts being not shipped or missing from the box, to wrong sizes, broken parts, etc. I have yet to order anything and not have either something missing broke or down right not what I bought. I don't get it. That's my little rant. I'm just frustrated is all because I finally get a day off and can't even use my computer damn you. "Son of a b mama says"


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is it me or pc hardware in general have more problems than any other thing outthere. Between parts being not shipped or missing from the box, to wrong sizes, broken parts, etc. I have yet to order anything and not have either something missing broke or down right not what I bought. I don't get it. That's my little rant. I'm just frustrated is all because I finally get a day off and can't even use my computer damn you. "Son of a b mama says"


Law of averages, human error is about 1%, so 1 out of 100 hardware items that get touched will have a problem. Think about the 1000's, 10's of 1000's, and even 100,000's of products that get pulled, packaged, and shipped everyday worldwide. it's just humanity.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is it me or pc hardware in general have more problems than any other thing outthere. Between parts being not shipped or missing from the box, to wrong sizes, broken parts, etc. I have yet to order anything and not have either something missing broke or down right not what I bought. I don't get it. That's my little rant. I'm just frustrated is all because I finally get a day off and can't even use my computer damn you. "Son of a b mama says"


I've never ever had a single thing computer related come in damaged or broken or missing a thing. You must have done something very naughty in a previous life.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> :S stop spreading your crazy thoughts man










Burn it to the ground! I know personally if I had polished that top, put the fittings in, then noticed the stress cracks all over, I would calmly shut the pc down (After ordering a replacement top) Put a sticky note on the computer with the number Representing how many days until the New top arrives.. as a sign before the reckoning..

Once the top arrive... Im catching things on fire.

TCO


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautifully done build.. and that case. Really like the Parvum cases and really hoping they design a ATX case in the future. I would definitely grab one up in a heartbeat.

/hint
/hint (for any Parvum reps reading...)









Are the current line of Parvum ITX and MATX cases pretty friendly towards custom watercooling?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Burn it to the ground! I know personally if I had polished that top, put the fittings in, then noticed the stress cracks all over, I would calmly shut the pc down (After ordering a replacement top) Put a sticky note on the computer with the number Representing how many days until the New top arrives.. as a sign before the reckoning..
> 
> Once the top arrive... Im catching things on fire.
> 
> TCO


says the guy who couldn't wait for 1 ORING


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's what I meant. Because I did use that stupid cheap tool it came with to tighten the fitting down. And yea I bought the upgrade kit which includes the top to save 40 dollars. Now I can't feel the cracks from the outside. I'm sure it's better to just shut her down


I wouldn't automatically assume you over tightened them, or even if you did, that it's the only cause of the cracks . . .

Looking at the area in question, and the way the tubes fit into the fittings . . they don't line up all that perfectly.

The left fitting on the left side has the tube pressed against the cap, while there's a gap on the right side between the tube and cap.

I'd look at re-running those tubes so there's no chance that they are putting lateral pressure against the fitting.



Looking at the right fitting, and the way the tube pulls to the right on that fitting and where those cracks are . . .

It just looks like more than a coincidence to me.



Darlene


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I wouldn't automatically assume you over tightened them, or even if you did, that it's the only cause of the cracks . . .
> 
> Looking at the area in question, and the way the tubes fit into the fittings . . they don't line up all that perfectly.
> 
> The left fitting on the left side has the tube pressed against the cap, while there's a gap on the right side between the tube and cap.
> 
> I'd look at re-running those tubes so there's no chance that they are putting lateral pressure against the fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the right fitting, and the way the tube pulls to the right on that fitting and where those cracks are . . .
> 
> It just looks like more than a coincidence to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


What I said earlier wasn't about the plexi cpu top. I agree probably was my fault and over the six months it just got worse and than finally yesterday showed itself. I plan on re doing all the tubing runs when it comes one because there not aligned as you pointed out two bc I wanna change it up and add the larger reservoir. Edit: forgot to say it. But thanks for the help from everyone. Wish ppc would have overnighted the order for a new top like I laid for and not wait until now where I won't get it to late friday as I'm off Friday for a job interview


----------



## jdstock76

Anyone ever use these?

http://www.modmytoys.com/cf_fittings.html


----------



## Vintage

They almost look like rebranded Monsoons or something.... even the marketing material looks very similar


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Anyone ever use these?
> 
> http://www.modmytoys.com/cf_fittings.html


Those are just aftermarket Monsoon fittings. I don't think Geno would allow their use if they didn't work.


----------



## Dzuks

Opinions: First run or the second one? Kinda conflicted... Lol


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions: First run or the second one? Kinda conflicted... Lol


I prefer this.

I would like to see what it looks like without the chicken wire on the fans.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions: First run or the second one? Kinda conflicted... Lol


I like the second!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome stuff, and green! I luv's me some green


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I like the second!


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I prefer this.
> 
> I would like to see what it looks like without the chicken wire on the fans.


The grills will be coming off soon enough.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I like the second!


Thanks. Much appreciated!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions: First run or the second one? Kinda conflicted... Lol


Maybe I'm the rebel but I like #1 better. It's more unique and fills in the space more. If your running colored coolant it will have more pop than #2. You going to remove the grill I hope...?


----------



## SteezyTN

I've never been so PO'd this much over a computer. Just tying to make the reservoir "straight" and lining up the fittings so I just have to make straight bends... I'm already annoyed. I've given up on the res. if it's crooked, it will stay crooked.

The second water block for the TX is coming sometime next week. PPCS said they are expecting the pre order shipments from EK to come in tomorrow or Friday. Once I get everything all connected, I'll run my mayhems blitz part 2, and then fill it with mayhems paste ice white.

I just want to be done already. Stuff like this takes up all my time...


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> I've never been so PO'd this much over a computer. Just tying to make the reservoir "straight" and lining up the fittings so I just have to make straight bends... I'm already annoyed. I've given up on the res. if it's crooked, it will stay crooked.
> 
> The second water block for the TX is coming sometime next week. PPCS said they are expecting the pre order shipments from EK to come in tomorrow or Friday. Once I get everything all connected, I'll run my mayhems blitz part 2, and then fill it with mayhems paste ice white.
> 
> I just want to be done already. Stuff like this takes up all my time...


It's looking pretty good to me except from the cpu to the top rad but other than that I like it


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> I've never been so PO'd this much over a computer. Just tying to make the reservoir "straight" and lining up the fittings so I just have to make straight bends... I'm already annoyed. I've given up on the res. if it's crooked, it will stay crooked.
> 
> The second water block for the TX is coming sometime next week. PPCS said they are expecting the pre order shipments from EK to come in tomorrow or Friday. Once I get everything all connected, I'll run my mayhems blitz part 2, and then fill it with mayhems paste ice white.
> 
> I just want to be done already. Stuff like this takes up all my time...


How are you mounting the res? I don't know if you are hand bending or using mandrels, either way measurements are detrimental. You could try this to help Measuring Kit there is a video to help explain how to measure the tubing correctly. It helped me out a ton when I did mine.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> It's looking pretty good to me except from the cpu to the top rad but other than that I like it


I like that bend.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> How are you mounting the res? I don't know if you are hand bending or using mandrels, either way measurements are detrimental. You could try this to help Measuring Kit there is a video to help explain how to measure the tubing correctly. It helped me out a ton when I did mine.


I bought the entire kit.


----------



## SteezyTN

screw it. I'm using this piece.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Uhhh @SteezyTN, care to use the edit button?

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Uhhh @SteezyTN, care to use the edit button?
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


I could. It's just too much of a hassle on mobile... Uhhh, sorry.

Okay, seriously... Sorry for all the post. Whenever I bend, I get frustrated lol. I get all sweaty and mad









So how does this look. The pump to CPU is by far the most annoying because they don't line up together. I'm going to cut a little bit more off so it looks better. Hope you guys like it. My TX water block will be coming soon.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well this stinks
Click to expand...

reminds me of my first and only mishap with acrylic, could be the stress caused by the tube as Darlene pointed out
Also it could be from extreme heat with the thermal expansion of Acrylic will actually cause the ports to shrink in size and fitting to enlarge.
I am confident this is what happened with this one left my computer in the car probably exposed to 50°C +.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's what I meant. Because I did use that stupid cheap tool it came with to tighten the fitting down. And yea I bought the upgrade kit which includes the top to save 40 dollars. Now I can't feel the cracks from the outside. I'm sure it's better to just shut her down
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't automatically assume you over tightened them, or even if you did, that it's the only cause of the cracks . . .
> 
> Looking at the area in question, and the way the tubes fit into the fittings . . they don't line up all that perfectly.
> 
> The left fitting on the left side has the tube pressed against the cap, while there's a gap on the right side between the tube and cap.
> 
> I'd look at re-running those tubes so there's no chance that they are putting lateral pressure against the fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the right fitting, and the way the tube pulls to the right on that fitting and where those cracks are . . .
> 
> It just looks like more than a coincidence to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

You may be right,however...the force placed on the tube is more likely to crack the tube rather than the block. My money is a threading issue based on the experience I had with Primochill fittings.


----------



## Dzuks

Before:


After:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Will be double-checking and tightening all the bitspower fittings and proceed with the loop filling and leak testing after work today.
I'm starting off with distilled water for now, cos I have no idea what coolant color would look good in there.









Any ideas or comment are welcomed.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be double-checking and tightening all the bitspower fittings and proceed with the loop filling and leak testing after work today.
> I'm starting off with distilled water for now, cos I have no idea what coolant color would look good in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas or comment are welcomed.


Look how nice that CPU to RES tube is


----------



## p5ych00n5

First hardline job so please be gentle












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













Still awaiting LED Strips, cable combs and a bit of housekeeping


----------



## Jakusonfire

Lol, that res is way too small. There is at least a few mms spare there. Man up and get a real res


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Will be double-checking and tightening all the bitspower fittings and proceed with the loop filling and leak testing after work today.
> I'm starting off with distilled water for now, cos I have no idea what coolant color would look good in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas or comment are welcomed.


Looks very neat and clean... nice work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> First hardline job so please be gentle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still awaiting LED Strips, cable combs and a bit of housekeeping


You have done a great job, props to you


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Lol, that res is way too small. There is at least a few mms spare there. Man up and get a real res


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Looks very neat and clean... nice work.
> You have done a great job, props to you










Could be better and could be worse, you should see my pile of failed and unsatisfactory bends, I think I've kept Monsoon afloat for the next tywo years


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> F4-120 sample I got went from 699 RPM at 15% to 2086 (advertised at 2200) RPM at 100% with the AQ6. The F4-120ER specs say 500-2200 RPM so the change is mostly on the lower side, and will now make even the F2-120 and F1-120 redundant


Oh OK, Thanks VSG, good to know. I went with the F2 to get that 500RPM min speed for true quietness. Would be great to have the extra speed if it was ever wanted without sacrificing the low end.


----------



## erso44

shall I buy them?
PHANTEKS PH-F140XP PWM 140mm Lüfter


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> shall I buy them?
> PHANTEKS PH-F140XP PWM 140mm Lüfter


I would get the Phanteks PH-F140MP, its a newer design with more static pressure and a wider rpm range. Looks better too imo.


----------



## VSG

Yeah the MP fans from Phanteks are pretty quiet. Not the best in terms of overall performance, but does enough to be near the leaders from an airflow/noise basis.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Look how nice that CPU to RES tube is


I know right... Thanks for pointing that out...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Looks very neat and clean... nice work.
> You have done a great job, props to you


Thanks!


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be double-checking and tightening all the bitspower fittings and proceed with the loop filling and leak testing after work today.
> I'm starting off with distilled water for now, cos I have no idea what coolant color would look good in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas or comment are welcomed.


Looks good, especially with the chicken wire gone off of the fans. Gonna feel great when you get the loop filled and running without leaks *coughTCOcough*








I would think that you may be limited with the colors. Clear, Red, or White....I would do White TBH, but buy enough to change it out if you really don't like it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> First hardline job so please be gentle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still awaiting LED Strips, cable combs and a bit of housekeeping


Looks good







I have a box of unused tubing about the same size as yours.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> First hardline job so please be gentle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still awaiting LED Strips, cable combs and a bit of housekeeping


You didn't blow anything up in frustration! yayyyyyy. Happy to be done I bet


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Looks good, especially with the chicken wire gone off of the fans. Gonna feel great when you get the loop filled and running without leaks *coughTCOcough*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would think that you may be limited with the colors. Clear, Red, or White....I would do White TBH, but buy enough to change it out if you really don't like it.
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a box of unused tubing about the same size as yours.


Very smooth! I appreciate that









TCO


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> First hardline job so please be gentle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still awaiting LED Strips, cable combs and a bit of housekeeping


Great job buddy.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could be better and could be worse, you should see my pile of failed and unsatisfactory bends, I think I've kept Monsoon afloat for the next tywo years


That's a lot of tubing left over. I think I'll check out more tutorial videos on measuring and bending myself, so next time I can do more with even less tubing than I did with mine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Looks good, especially with the chicken wire gone off of the fans. Gonna feel great when you get the loop filled and running without leaks *coughTCOcough*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would think that you may be limited with the colors. Clear, Red, or White....I would do White TBH, but buy enough to change it out if you really don't like it.
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a box of unused tubing about the same size as yours.


Yeah, I was thinking white too. I already tried blood red with soft tubing, so I doubt I'd be going that same route again.

Thanks for being helpful.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could be better and could be worse, you should see my pile of failed and unsatisfactory bends, I think I've kept Monsoon afloat for the next tywo years


I purchased... I think 19" x 4 Bitspower Crystal Clear Tubing for my Build. I didn't have to bend but one tube that was roughly 5 1/2" Long. I think after all the cuts and re-cuts I have... 6" of tubing left.

Cost me 11USD for all of the Tubes? I was pleased with the Cost of acrylic on the build. Thought it would have run me upwards of 50$

TCO

That pile though... It makes my heart hurt a tad. I didn't have the stones to bend that much!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I purchased... I think 19" x 4 Bitspower Crystal Clear Tubing for my Build. I didn't have to bend but one tube that was roughly 5 1/2" Long. I think after all the cuts and re-cuts I have... 6" of tubing left.
> 
> Cost me 11USD for all of the Tubes? I was pleased with the Cost of acrylic on the build. Thought it would have run me upwards of 50$
> 
> TCO
> 
> That pile though... It makes my heart hurt a tad. I didn't have the stones to bend that much!


how is your Loop TCO?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> how is your Loop TCO?


My Man Ramz!!! It is doing very Great!! I am super pleased with the results. I have yet to push 1.2Core V on the 5930K. Max so far was 1.155 Core V (Trying for 4.3Ghz) But Crashed. The Ambients in the House were 25C ( For you fahrenheit sticklers out there) , after 15min of Realbench 2.4 the Cores maxed out at 58C.

*GPU RESULTS FOR THOSE WHO ASK OF PARALLEL VS SERIAL.*

Top 980 after 15min = 43C
Bottom 980 after 15min = 41C

There has been only a 2c Difference in the cards (Full Waterblocks) The Bottom card receives the cooled fluid first then goes to the top card, then back out of the loop. Excellent physics.

The Cautious One


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> My Man Ramz!!! It is doing very Great!! I am super pleased with the results. I have yet to push 1.2Core V on the 5930K. Max so far was 1.155 Core V (Trying for 4.3Ghz) But Crashed. The Ambients in the House were 25C ( For you fahrenheit sticklers out there) , after 15min of Realbench 2.4 the Cores maxed out at 58C.
> 
> *GPU RESULTS FOR THOSE WHO ASK OF PARALLEL VS SERIAL.*
> 
> Top 980 after 15min = 43C
> Bottom 980 after 15min = 41C
> 
> There has been only a 2c Difference in the cards (Full Waterblocks) The Bottom card receives the cooled fluid first then goes to the top card, then back out of the loop. Excellent physics.
> 
> The Cautious One


Glad you are having a blast man. don't be so coservative on the Vcore. i'd start with what i think is fine then fine tune. in my case with the 3770K i'll start with [email protected] 1.3V and see if i boot
stress test and if i pass.. i'll lower Vcore.









And i don't recall you having Serial done before ? did you? if you did how were the temps?

Have a blast mate.

Ramz.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> My Man Ramz!!! It is doing very Great!! I am super pleased with the results. I have yet to push 1.2Core V on the 5930K. Max so far was 1.155 Core V (Trying for 4.3Ghz) But Crashed. The Ambients in the House were 25C ( For you fahrenheit sticklers out there) , after 15min of Realbench 2.4 the Cores maxed out at 58C.
> 
> *GPU RESULTS FOR THOSE WHO ASK OF PARALLEL VS SERIAL.*
> 
> Top 980 after 15min = 43C
> Bottom 980 after 15min = 41C
> 
> There has been only a 2c Difference in the cards (Full Waterblocks) The Bottom card receives the cooled fluid first then goes to the top card, then back out of the loop. Excellent physics.
> 
> The Cautious One


Dooooweeet!

I am currently clocked [email protected](1320RPM's on fans), temps top out at 67C on RealBench. I was at [email protected], I would imagine I could have gone lower, but didn't try.

I am seeing my GPU Temps similar to yours. 1-2 deg difference in serial. Top out at 40C with an OC of +220 on Core and +770 Mem Clk in Afterburner. I have since gone back to +100 on both.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Glad you are having a blast man. don't be so coservative on the Vcore. i'd start with what i think is fine then fine tune. in my case with the 3770K i'll start with [email protected] 1.3V and see if i boot
> stress test and if i pass.. i'll lower Vcore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i don't recall you having Serial done before ? did you? if you did how were the temps?
> 
> Have a blast mate.
> 
> Ramz.


No NO, I have just parallel, I am leaving the other temps to someone with stock 980s in SLI and a seperate loop to compare against mine. I know that the 2c difference sounds about right and makes sense to me!

I am being conservative on the overclocks, you are correct, I like to try and push them like this until I am topped out on a comfortable CoreV (1.3V)

Also, I am afraid to try 4.5Ghz/ 1.3Core V and It won't boot, I don't like disappointment. I'd rather creep my way up the Multi tree with adequate voltage to reach the Peak. Also I got the Processor New for 450$ (100$ cheaper than most people, from amazon on sale) and would cream myself if I received a great chip in that aspect.

The Cautious One


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No NO, I have just parallel, I am leaving the other temps to someone with stock 980s in SLI and a seperate loop to compare against mine. I know that the 2c difference sounds about right and makes sense to me!
> 
> I am being conservative on the overclocks, you are correct, I like to try and push them like this until I am topped out on a comfortable CoreV (1.3V)
> 
> Also, I am afraid to try 4.5Ghz/ 1.3Core V and It won't boot, I don't like disappointment. I'd rather creep my way up the Multi tree with adequate voltage to reach the Peak. Also I got the Processor New for 450$ (100$ cheaper than most people, from amazon on sale) and would cream myself if I received a great chip in that aspect.
> 
> The Cautious One


What i do .. is when you reach that amazing Stable overclock and the Vcroe you are comfortable with. i always take the Core Clock down a bit. just not to burn the chip so fast


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> What i do .. is when you reach that amazing Stable overclock and the Vcroe you are comfortable with. i always take the Core Clock down a bit. just not to burn the chip so fast


So... We Don't Burn it to the Ground







! ?

TCO









I have my 4770k Delidded Running at 4.5Ghz Using 1.280V (Ram at 1866mhz 2 x 8Gb Corsair dom Plat ) 24/7









This 5930k is going to Burn


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So... We Don't Burn it to the Ground
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! ?
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my 4770k Delidded Running at 4.5Ghz Using 1.280V (Ram at 1866mhz 2 x 8Gb Corsair dom Plat ) 24/7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This 5930k is going to Burn


'

i can't run that high. CPUs aint cheap.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> '
> 
> i can't run that high. CPUs aint cheap.


I am rubbing two sticks together getting the spark ready







Blow a little and *FIRE*







ITS SO HOTT RAMZ!! JUMP OVER IT!!!

KIdding (not really) I just know I have to stay away from 1.3V if possible. I haven't noticed a huge degrade in the 4770k after running it at 4.5Ghz since.... April of 2014? Almost a full year? I used to run it at 1.275V, Just had to give it a little sip of some of that Electro Juice







I've booted into 4.6Ghz but was never able to run stable.

Just imagine The 5930K Shining like a Stallion and Me Petting it, This One will hopefully push the boundaries of what we would like it to do ( 4.5Ghz + A little Love could go a long way ) then we ride into the sunset holding on for dear life while the Stallion Sprays flames of Glory !!!

Whew... Why I am at work? Plus this loop is pretty dope at getting rid of some heat too! THat might help as well!

TCO


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am rubbing two sticks together getting the spark ready
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blow a little and *FIRE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ITS SO HOTT RAMZ!! JUMP OVER IT!!!
> 
> KIdding (not really) I just know I have to stay away from 1.3V if possible. I haven't noticed a huge degrade in the 4770k after running it at 4.5Ghz since.... April of 2014? Almost a full year? I used to run it at 1.275V, Just had to give it a little sip of some of that Electro Juice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've booted into 4.6Ghz but was never able to run stable.
> 
> Just imagine The 5930K Shining like a Stallion and Me Petting it, This One will hopefully push the boundaries of what we would like it to do ( 4.5Ghz + A little Love could go a long way ) then we ride into the sunset holding on for dear life while the Stallion Sprays flames of Glory !!!
> 
> Whew... Why I am at work? Plus this loop is pretty dope at getting rid of some heat too! THat might help as well!
> 
> TCO


I crashed while trying to get down to 1.280v on 4.5. =( I hope you have better luck than I.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I crashed while trying to get down to 1.280v on 4.5. =( I hope you have better luck than I.


Down from what CoreV? You say down to 1.280? What you stabilize at 4.5ghz? Same Chip?

TCO


----------



## erso44

I got 70°C under full load for my custom loop...isn´t too much?
2x780, 1xi7-3820 @ 4.6(1,38V) & mosfets and SB is under water...what the hell is this...


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I would get the Phanteks PH-F140MP, its a newer design with more static pressure and a wider rpm range. Looks better too imo.


ok I hope one side of fans for rad is enough. Don´t want to push and pull because that would be expensive.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I got 70°C under full load for my custom loop...isn´t too much?
> 2x780, 1xi7-3820 @ 4.6(1,38V) & mosfets and SB is under water...what the hell is this...


Well first of all, look at ALL that voltage your pushing.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well first of all, look at ALL that voltage your pushing.


That´s not much!
If you mean CPU voltage. By the way I told you my GPU´s are underclocked?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> '
> 
> i can't run that high. CPUs aint cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am rubbing two sticks together getting the spark ready
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blow a little and *FIRE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ITS SO HOTT RAMZ!! JUMP OVER IT!!!
> 
> KIdding (not really) I just know I have to stay away from 1.3V if possible. I haven't noticed a huge degrade in the 4770k after running it at 4.5Ghz since.... April of 2014? Almost a full year? I used to run it at 1.275V, Just had to give it a little sip of some of that Electro Juice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've booted into 4.6Ghz but was never able to run stable.
> 
> Just imagine The 5930K Shining like a Stallion and Me Petting it, This One will hopefully push the boundaries of what we would like it to do ( 4.5Ghz + A little Love could go a long way ) then we ride into the sunset holding on for dear life while the Stallion Sprays flames of Glory !!!
> 
> Whew... Why I am at work? Plus this loop is pretty dope at getting rid of some heat too! THat might help as well!
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

................you need to get out more.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> ok I hope one side of fans for rad is enough. Don´t want to push and pull because that would be expensive.


Unless you're using >60mm thick rads, push-pull isn't necessary at all.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Down from what CoreV? You say down to 1.280? What you stabilize at 4.5ghz? Same Chip?
> 
> TCO


5930K, I started with 4.5GHz @ 1.3, was stable. Kept dropping the Vcore by .005 until it crashed, set it to 1.285 and it has been stable. Also, have the XMP Profile active(2666).


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Unless you're using >60mm thick rads, push-pull isn't necessary at all.


I got 55mm so I don´t need it. Glad to hear that haha.

@Krtikill how did you make a screenshot?


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I got 55mm so I don´t need it. Glad to hear that haha.
> 
> @Krtikill how did you make a screenshot?


I use the Snipping tool in Windows.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Unless you're using >60mm thick rads, push-pull isn't necessary at all.


So 61mm+? I am using Coolgate G2 240 and 360 in a pull config and I think my temps are pretty good. I assume Push/Pull would drop them some?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I use the Snipping tool in Windows.


Greatest tool ever added to Windows.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ctrl + P an you have a screen cap. Open paint, r clixk , paste and save. You have your screenshot.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> That´s not much!
> If you mean CPU voltage. By the way I told you my GPU´s are underclocked?


1.38v is a lot. I have my 4770K at 1.3. Get more rads, or turn the fans up.


----------



## DarthBaggins

@B NEGATIVE what's a good store for Watercooling gear in the UK, have a friend that needs one over there, new to the addiction


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 1.38v is a lot. I have my 4770K at 1.3. Get more rads, or turn the fans up.


thought about getting one rad more. What if I tell you I just have AF fans














Maybe my rads dont get cooled down
I´m looking for SP fans....


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ctrl + P an you have a screen cap. Open paint, r clixk , paste and save. You have your screenshot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


+1


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> thought about getting one rad more. What if I tell you I just have AF fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe my rads dont get cooled down
> I´m looking for SP fans....


That could also be your problem. But of course you will expect higher temps at 1.38v


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> So 61mm+? I am using Coolgate G2 240 and 360 in a pull config and I think my temps are pretty good. I assume Push/Pull would drop them some?


Push pull would drop your temps, but not nearly enough to justify the cost of 5 more fans imo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I use the Snipping tool in Windows.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Greatest tool ever added to Windows.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ctrl + P an you have a screen cap. Open paint, r clixk , paste and save. You have your screenshot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I use puush, can capture an area like the snipping tool, a window or full screen, and it instantly uploads it. Best tool for the job imo.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I use the print screen button on my kb lol (in Linux)


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That could also be your problem. But of course you will expect higher temps at 1.38v


let me stress it ... and I will post you a screen shot of my temps so you can have a look...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ................you need to get out more.


Come on BNeg! I can get you a Stallion Too!! Looking at the Purple and Orange Sunset with the wind blowing in our long locks.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> let me stress it ... and I will post you a screen shot of my temps so you can have a look...


What clock speed are you trying to obtain?


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey guys, what's the benefits of push pull on an RX240? I have an RX360, RX240, and EX240. All are in push, but I'm out of room for more radiators (unless I mounted externally), and the 240 is the only radiator with enough room for push pull. I need all the cooling I can get with my Titan x sli.!


----------



## Ceadderman

I know not how to use push an I am old. Ctrl + P has never failed me yet... Unless I get right click happy somewhere in the process.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ................you need to get out more.
> 
> 
> 
> Come on BNeg! I can get you a Stallion Too!! Looking at the Purple and Orange Sunset with the wind blowing in our long locks.
> 
> The Cautious ONe
Click to expand...

I dont want a stallion....

I AM the stallion.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What clock speed are you trying to obtain?


gpu or cpu?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey guys, what's the benefits of push pull on an RX240? I have an RX360, RX240, and EX240. All are in push, but I'm out of room for more radiators (unless I mounted externally), and the 240 is the only radiator with enough room for push pull. I need all the cooling I can get with my Titan x sli.!


you can have a look at the controlled test bench results here:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/

360 rads but still the same would apply to any size of rad.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I AM the stallion.


Can I quote you on that?

Oh wait, I just did.


----------



## DarthBaggins

CPU since I saw the mention of 1.38 on a 4770k

I'm running the 4790k at 4.8 1.285 vcore and under a single 360 hits 68c max (no GPU's in this loop) want to add another rad (120 or 240) and snag a 780 and submerse it in he R.C70 since my blocked 970 is in JAC (no tests yet to see how the 5930k with 970 with dual 360's is going to fare)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont want a stallion....
> 
> I AM the stallion.


Bneg...Are you saying you want me to ride you into the sunset and just my locks flowing in the Wind









I kid, Unless your into that kind of thing of Course









TCO







( can I say this ) I have Matches


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> CPU since I saw the mention of 1.38 on a 4770k
> 
> I'm running the 4790k at 4.8 1.285 vcore and under a single 360 hits 68c max (no GPU's in this loop) want to add another rad (120 or 240) and snag a 780 and submerse it in he R.C70 since my blocked 970 is in JAC (no tests yet to see how the 5930k with 970 with dual 360's is going to fare)


but I was talking about an i7-3820


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I know not how to use push an I am old. Ctrl + P has never failed me yet... Unless I get right click happy somewhere in the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Puush is just a lot faster and more versatile. And its very easy to use.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can have a look at the controlled test bench results here:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/
> 
> 360 rads but still the same would apply to any size of rad.


This is the same site I used to pick my rads. The G2's were touted as the best overall RPM range rads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Push pull would drop your temps, but not nearly enough to justify the cost of 5 more fans imo.


I don't have the room for push/pull anyway. lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Come on BNeg! I can get you a Stallion Too!! Looking at the Purple and Orange Sunset with the wind blowing in our long locks.
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Work is making you delirious.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I use the print screen button on my kb lol (in Linux)


????


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bneg...Are you saying you want me to ride you into the sunset and just my locks flowing in the Wind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kid, Unless your into that kind of thing of Course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( can I say this ) I have Matches


HAHAHA, Too funny









Hows the system going?

I added my mobo to my water loop last night since I'm putting a bit more stress on it with running the 5ghz overclock on my new 4790k .. They were hitting 46-48c on air and now only 36c on water, but coming right down after stress is over. Everything is nice and cool in my system now and nothing is giving off any heat. Played some GTA V for a few hours with my friend yesterday and coolant never went above 1c higher that my ambient temps. I also took out my EK 2.2 pump/res and put my EK X-res 140 D5 vario in place of that. Still have the Phobya running as a secondary for added safety. By far the best loop performance I've gotten so far. The EK PE rads do a amazing job with very low fan speeds with the Noctua NF-F12's running at 900-1200rpms.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bneg...Are you saying you want me to ride you into the sunset and just my locks flowing in the Wind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kid, Unless your into that kind of thing of Course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( can I say this ) I have Matches


What the XXXXX Did i just Read


----------



## Ceadderman

It's MCT... usually happens on s Mon or Weds in my house but I've got a teenage girl in my house too.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> What the XXXXX Did i just Read


I am a tad concerned as Bneg hasn't responded yet... I think we could assume that no response could be a positive response.. and for that... ( I believe I just made a pass at a man)

What... Have... I ... Done..


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> BLABLABLA.




Here you can see my high temps and in the background chicken legs


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> but I was talking about an i7-3820


Lol ah







as long as temps are mid 60's I'd think you'll be fine


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> This is the same site I used to pick my rads. The G2's were touted as the best overall RPM range rads.
> I don't have the room for push/pull anyway. lol
> Work is making you delirious.
> ????


That's how I get a screenshot


----------



## kl6mk6

This guy is having issues with his pump res combo. Can you all take a look at it and see if you see something that got missed?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1555474/how-to-fill-a-bay-reservoir-with-an-attached-d5-pump#post_23908063


----------



## Ithanul

O lord, what the heck did I just read. rofl, dang it I can't stop laughing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont want a stallion....
> 
> I AM the stallion.
> 
> 
> 
> Bneg...Are you saying you want me to ride you into the sunset and just my locks flowing in the Wind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kid, Unless your into that kind of thing of Course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( can I say this ) I have Matches
Click to expand...

Silence indicates a horrible retribution is being concocted.....involving Magoo and bits of cheese....

You lack my prerequisites of a relationship,for example: Ladybits.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Silence indicates a horrible retribution is being concocted.....involving Magoo and bits of cheese....
> 
> You lack my prerequisites of a relationship,for example: Ladybits.


NOT THE MAGOO... AND CHEESE BNEG!! NOT THE MAGOO!!!

(trips backward, grabbing for earth, scrambling)

TCO


----------



## jdstock76

What in good green earth is happening?!!!!


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> What in good green earth is happening?!!!!


No idea, I kinda missed the last 70 posts or so and haven't gone back to reread and it got crazier in here.


----------



## emsj86

@TCO Pretty sure your not suppose to drink the premix coolant no matter how good it looks. Jk


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> NOT THE MAGOO... AND CHEESE BNEG!! NOT THE MAGOO!!!
> 
> (trips backward, grabbing for earth, scrambling)
> 
> TCO


Thanks man! Now my co-workers are wondering if they need to call an ambulance because I fell out of my chair.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @TCO Pretty sure your not suppose to drink the premix coolant no matter how good it looks. Jk


I mean I had an extra bottle of that pastel... Didn't want to waste it... THings are so blury... B Neg... Stallions.... FLames... OH GOD!!



TC... O


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bneg...Are you saying you want me to ride you into the sunset and just my locks flowing in the Wind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kid, Unless your into that kind of thing of Course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( can I say this ) I have Matches


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> NOT THE MAGOO... AND CHEESE BNEG!! NOT THE MAGOO!!!
> 
> (trips backward, grabbing for earth, scrambling)
> 
> TCO


I think B is actually showing a lot of restraint here in its retribution...Magoo and cheese...Could be worse...just think on what could have replaced the cheese and you will realize what I mean


----------



## SteezyTN

Last day of finals are Tuesday. Till then, I'm putting this project on hold and in going to be studying. Tuesday night, I'll be adding the second waterblock to my TX, and I'll add the mayhems Paste ice white.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think B is actually showing a lot of restraint here in its retribution...Magoo and cheese...Could be worse...just think on what could have replaced the cheese and you will realize what I mean




TCO


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> No idea, I kinda missed the last 70 posts or so and haven't gone back to reread and it got crazier in here.


There'll be less scarring if you don't go back.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @TCO Pretty sure your not suppose to drink the premix coolant no matter how good it looks. Jk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I mean I had an extra bottle of that pastel... Didn't want to waste it... THings are so blury... B Neg... Stallions.... FLames... OH GOD!!
> 
> 
> 
> TC... O


Step away from the coolant. For all our sanity, please step away! LoL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks man! Now my co-workers are wondering if they need to call an ambulance because I fell out of my chair.


Hahahahahahahaha ..... Same here. People are looking at me funny!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Last day of finals are Tuesday. Till then, I'm putting this project on hold and in going to be studying. Tuesday night, I'll be adding the second waterblock to my TX, and I'll add the mayhems Paste ice white.


Look at this guy trying to be all serious and stuff!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> There'll be less scarring if you don't go back.


So much truth here. Don't do it! I did. Please ..... save ................. meeeee ...............................................................................


----------



## SteezyTN

Does anyone use the Primochill flow meter? I want to pick one up so I can see what the flow is like in my system, knowing that I have tons of 90's.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Step away from the coolant. For all our sanity, please step away! LoL


Indeed, it getting nuts in this thread.

Though, I have the qualification that B Neg stated. So does that mean I get to ride?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks man! Now my co-workers are wondering if they need to call an ambulance because I fell out of my chair.










Im glad someone at work got a kick outa this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Indeed, it getting nuts in this thread.
> 
> Though, I have the qualification that B Neg stated. So does that mean I get to ride?










You trying to steal the Stallion?











TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

You guys crack me up!! Seriously








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Last day of finals are Tuesday. Till then, I'm putting this project on hold and in going to be studying. Tuesday night, I'll be adding the second waterblock to my TX, and I'll add the mayhems Paste ice white.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Look good man!! You have a LOT of rad stuffed into that case LOL. Your temps should be great. I have my Cpu @ 5ghz, Mobo VRM block, Titan X overclocked, all on my loop with only a 240 and 360 and my coolant temp never goes above 1-2c over ambient. Was the same when I had my 2 780ti's instead of the TX. So you having an extra 240 over what I got, you should be golden no matter what even with the 2nd TX, hell, even a 3rd TX too. Looking forward to see when the other TX goes into the loop. Should be nice and cool, and quiet









EDIT: I have a question about my system
If I wanted to add one of those coolant temp sensors from bits power, just the little probe that is sticking through a G1/4" stop plug pretty much, where would be the best place to add that?

1. Take out one of the stop plugs in my gpu block and put it there?
2. Put it in one of the plug ports in my EK X-res?
3. Add a 4 way block inline with one of my tubes and put it in that, plug the other side, and run coolant straight through?
4. I don't know anywhere else to put it LOL

I have a fan controller with 4 temp sensor plugs that will read the temp of something if I hook it up. Those are only $7.99 at microcenter so I'd like to add one so I could see my coolant temp all the time. I guess after my gpu which is the last thing making heat would be the best place no?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> You guys crack me up!! Seriously
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look good man!! You have a LOT of rad stuffed into that case LOL. Your temps should be great. I have my Cpu @ 5ghz, Mobo VRM block, Titan X overclocked, all on my loop with only a 240 and 360 and my coolant temp never goes above 1-2c over ambient. Was the same when I had my 2 780ti's instead of the TX. So you having an extra 240 over what I got, you should be golden no matter what even with the 2nd TX, hell, even a 3rd TX too. Looking forward to see when the other TX goes into the loop. Should be nice and cool, and quiet


Well when I had my two 6GB 780's, the water temps would reach a little under 40c when gaming. The cards would hit like 48c. Hopefully I made a mistake with the waterblocks on those cards, because they seemed quite hot to me. Hopefully I'll get different results knowing I have different waterblocks (nickel vs copper).


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well when I had my two 6GB 780's, the water temps would reach a little under 40c when gaming. The cards would hit like 48c. Hopefully I made a mistake with the waterblocks on those cards, because they seemed quite hot to me. Hopefully I'll get different results knowing I have different waterblocks (nickel vs copper).


Those temps are completely normal. Having water temp only going a couple C over ambient is not. That sounds like incorrrectly placed sensors or something. My loop idles at about +3C and full gaming load is about +9 at 1400RPM. Two GPU's could easily add 50% to the delta.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does anyone use the Primochill flow meter? I want to pick one up so I can see what the flow is like in my system, knowing that I have tons of 90's.


You just want a visual indication of flow or do you want to actually read the flow on your loop in GPM or LPM or any other unit of flow?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> You guys crack me up!! Seriously
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look good man!! You have a LOT of rad stuffed into that case LOL. Your temps should be great. I have my Cpu @ 5ghz, Mobo VRM block, Titan X overclocked, all on my loop with only a 240 and 360 and my coolant temp never goes above 1-2c over ambient. Was the same when I had my 2 780ti's instead of the TX. So you having an extra 240 over what I got, you should be golden no matter what even with the 2nd TX, hell, even a 3rd TX too. Looking forward to see when the other TX goes into the loop. Should be nice and cool, and quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I have a question about my system
> If I wanted to add one of those coolant temp sensors from bits power, just the little probe that is sticking through a G1/4" stop plug pretty much, where would be the best place to add that?
> 
> 1. Take out one of the stop plugs in my gpu block and put it there?
> 2. Put it in one of the plug ports in my EK X-res?
> 3. Add a 4 way block inline with one of my tubes and put it in that, plug the other side, and run coolant straight through?
> 4. I don't know anywhere else to put it LOL
> 
> I have a fan controller with 4 temp sensor plugs that will read the temp of something if I hook it up. Those are only $7.99 at microcenter so I'd like to add one so I could see my coolant temp all the time. I guess after my gpu which is the last thing making heat would be the best place no?


Do you have spare radiator ports? Or drain/bleed ports on the rads? Those would be my first choice for water probe temps. But gpu spare ports would work too.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Those temps are completely normal. Having water temp only going a couple C over ambient is not. That sounds like incorrrectly placed sensors or something. My loop idles at about +3C and full gaming load is about +9 at 1400RPM. Two GPU's could easily add 50% to the delta.


I have 3 xspc temp sensors (via g1/4) in each radiator. Water temps were about 40c. Ambient was maybe 21c, and idle was 24-25c. I'll see what temps are like once I finish it and add coolant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You just want a visual indication of flow or do you want to actually read the flow on your loop in GPM or LPM or any other unit of flow?


Just a visual. I don't need one, but they do look kind of nice in watercooling systems. I'm thinking about adding one.


----------



## VSG

Primochill has a CPU block and new hardline fittings line coming out:





These are two pictures taken from here: http://www.primochill.com/pdx-lan-custom-slant-matx-build/, and the link also shows a case that will be coming out in a similar form to retail soon.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have 3 xspc temp sensors (via g1/4) in each radiator. Water temps were about 40c. Ambient was maybe 21c, and idle was 24-25c. I'll see what temps are like once I finish it and add coolant.
> Just a visual. I don't need one, but they do look kind of nice in watercooling systems. I'm thinking about adding one.


Why three in each Rad? I could see In and Out, but what is the third one for? I just put two on the output of each rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Primochill has a CPU block and new hardline fittings line coming out:
> 
> 
> 
> These are two pictures taken from here: http://www.primochill.com/pdx-lan-custom-slant-matx-build/, and the link also shows a case that will be coming out in a similar form to retail soon.


They look plastic. lol


----------



## VSG

Yeah hopefully that isn't the final version of the block or at least has offerings of replacement face plates. It's a bit too.. simple.. for me personally.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Primochill has a CPU block and new hardline fittings line coming out:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are two pictures taken from here: http://www.primochill.com/pdx-lan-custom-slant-matx-build/, and the link also shows a case that will be coming out in a similar form to retail soon.


Seems like they partner with Noctua







What on earth is that color scheme







And the fittings remind me of this:



No offense VSG I appreciate the time for letting us known what is in the pipes (no pun intended).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Why three in each Rad? I could see In and Out, but what is the third one for? I just put two on the output of each rad.


haha... I meant to say 3 g1/4 temps total, with one in each rad


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Seems like they partner with Noctua
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What on earth is that color scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the fittings remind me of this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense VSG I appreciate the time for letting us known what is in the pipes (no pun intended).


lol I had the exact same discussion regarding the coolant color. It's one of their new coolants which has been out for a while now but I haven't seen anyone use much- opaque True Fudge Sicle. I have no idea why this particular color even exists as a stock option.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Seems like they partner with Noctua
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What on earth is that color scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the fittings remind me of this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense VSG I appreciate the time for letting us known what is in the pipes (no pun intended).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol I had the exact same discussion regarding the coolant color. It's one of their new coolants which has been out for a while now but I haven't seen anyone use much- opaque True Fudge Sicle. I have no idea why this particular color even exists as a stock option.
Click to expand...

I'm sure it'll go over great with the proctologist crowd . . . fecalfungus brown placticizer









D.


----------



## Kritikill

So I need "Club Mate's" opinions









Since this was my first build, there were a few things that I looked that I thought needed changing or came up with ideas after the fact. The biggest change would be the idea of a new side panel and accents. I am torn, so I am looking for your help to see what looks better. I love the Mythosaur, but not sure that I like the huge block on the side panel. I still have some other cool ideas to go with the new.

I just need to be pulled away or pushed over the cliff.

Original


New


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Those temps are completely normal. Having water temp only going a couple C over ambient is not. That sounds like incorrrectly placed sensors or something. My loop idles at about +3C and full gaming load is about +9 at 1400RPM. Two GPU's could easily add 50% to the delta.


If your water temp is that much higher than ambient, then you would need to fix something I'd say. My water temp is no where near 9c over ambient while gaming with my current loop. At most might be 3c higher at MOST. I have checked with my temp gun many times throughout my building and tweaking of my water loop. I also am a FIRM believer of having 2 rads in my loop and having them at different points in the loop to keep things cooler that way. Some say it doesn't matter, I have seen that it does help. When I was running just my quad 480mm 60mm thick rad on my cpu, mobo, 2 gpu's all in a row and then going to the quad, my coolant temp coming out of the last gpu was a good 10c hotter than coming out of my rad and starting over. With my current loop, that is not the case. I will take a picture of the temps across my loop and show you. I will let Heaven loop or something like that to bring my gpu temps as high as they can get and my cpu is now running at 5ghz with 1.300v (1.312v load) and I have EIST and C states disabled so my Cpu sits at 5ghz the whole time and volts don't drop either. My titan x is overclocked to 1302mhz on stock volts for gaming 24/7 for now, and I just added my Maximus 6 Formula to my loop last night as my VRM temps on the mobo were starting to get around 50c with the 5ghz overclock since I changed my VRM's to extreme for better current for the cpu to run lower voltage and stay stable.

My loop runs like this, starting at the Res

EK X-Res 140 D5 vario set at 3, goes to my Cpu @ 5ghz, then right into my VRM block, out from that to my EK PE 240mm Rad (to get water back to ambient before going to gpu) , then goes into my Titan X @ 1302mhz / 7200mhz , into my 2nd pump (Phobya DC12-260 @ 85%) for extra reliability, then to my EK PE 360mm Rad to cool back down to ambient before going back to my Res.

So, [ Res > Pump > Cpu > VRM's > 240mm > Gpu > Pump > 360mm > Res ]

I have 5 Noctua NF-F12 fans on my rads in push config. Those are pretty much the best fans you can put on a rad at the sound level they produce. Sure there are other fans out there that can push more air, but the Noctua's are designed for "static pressure" and were made specifically for rads. I didn't think that they were all that cracked up to be what everyone said, and all the reviews always showing them as the best top fans out there, and being the best AIR Cpu cooler you can pretty much get, so I never even pick up the box for one of those and have always bought other fans because 1st of all, the Noctua's are $30 each and that's pretty expensive when you start adding them up. I have 5 total on my rads and that cost me $165 after tax just to get those and I didn't want to spend that because I didn't think they were going to do anything better. Boy was I WRONG!! Those are the nicest feeling fans I have ever had in my hands. They are about twice as heavy as the Coolermaster SickleFlows that I liked the most because they work great and have lots of options for different color Led's and are NOT to bright like some other Led fans. I was pretty amazed when I opened the boxes and pulled one out. They really are worth the money they cost after you see all the stuff they did to them to make them work as good as they do with being SO quiet. They run at 1500rpm max, but I run mine at 1200rpm if I'm going to game for a while, or 900rpm if I'm doing anything light duty or surfing the net. I do run them at 1500rpm's if I'm benching, or stress testing tho and they make a little bit of noise, but the noise they make isn't an annoying sound, it's different than other fans really. I am very pleased with them even at that high cost.

I'll add some pictures in just a few as they come into my email.


----------



## Ramzinho

If this thread gets closed for cleaning. I'll blame @TheCautiousOne


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Looks good, especially with the chicken wire gone off of the fans. Gonna feel great when you get the loop filled and running without leaks *coughTCOcough*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would think that you may be limited with the colors. Clear, Red, or White....I would do White TBH, but buy enough to change it out if you really don't like it.
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a box of unused tubing about the same size as yours.


Cheers Mate. Most of those offcuts are "test" bends to see how much heat/practice bends, and also my "Nope, not good enough"/hamfistedness









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> You didn't blow anything up in frustration! yayyyyyy. Happy to be done I bet


I almost did.........







, and I certainly am glad it's (always never) finished, bending to me at least is extremely satisfying but can be equally and occasionally more frustrating for example bending an absolutely picture perfect 90, then finding out you've cut the tube 1mm short









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Great job buddy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a lot of tubing left over. I think I'll check out more tutorial videos on measuring and bending myself, so next time I can do more with even less tubing than I did with mine.
> Yeah, I was thinking white too. I already tried blood red with soft tubing, so I doubt I'd be going that same route again.
> 
> Thanks for being helpful.


Cheers mate









I just wanna give a HUGE shoutout to all who encouraged and or chided me







rep all around, especially to Bneg whose tutorials took out some of the fear factor and also showed it possible a mere pleb such as myself that it is possible to create a rig that is beautiful. I have learned much in the past few months and I only hope that I can be just as helpful as those who've helped guide me in this journey, share the love and share the knowledge


----------



## emsj86

Ok so this is a tightly off topic but deals with watercoing (atleast the looks side of it). I want to light up the area around my cpu. But the phanteks case with a rad I stalled up top doesn't give much if any room in the back side of the top rad to mount an led strip. I was thinking of rigging it up somehow in my 5.25 bays. It should I get leds for the cpu block itself (if so what's a good brand bc every led bulb 3mm or 5mm I bought (xspc, generic, eBay ) all dye out very quick. Any thoughts to get some light in there without having the light either showing or where it glares and looks awful. This is currently how it is setup. White led on back side , bottom and top in front of the rad. .


----------



## Hambone07si

Ok, I just ran Heaven benchmark for 10min straight to get some temps under load after I was at idle reading OCN and laughing at TCO's funny comments









Here goes, I took a first shot of water temp at the hottest point which is right after my Titan X and I took all the shots with the thermometer in the same picture. I also took a picture of the thermometer's reading and the temp gun pointed right at it so you could see how accurate the temp gun was VS the thermometer so there's no questioning that part. Then I ran heaven for 10min straight with Cpu at 5ghz and Titan X at 1302mhz / 7200mhz (+100/+100) ... Then while the Heaven benchmark was still running I took a pic of heaven to the side of CoreTemp, and Precision X showing with Heaven still running.

1st, idle temps and ambient temp before starting the Benchmark


2nd, Temp gun compared to the thermometer so there's no funny business going on, or shall we say "no TCO business going on"










3rd, Load temps of water after 10min of Heaven with it still running at the hottest point in my loop, right on the outlet of the Titan X


4th, pic of Heaven to the left with CoreTemp showing Cpu temps @ 5ghz on top of Precision X showing Titan X @ 1302mhz / 7200mhz


This is the hottest my coolant temps will ever get over ambient. I would just like to have a actual sensor inside the water giving me a better temp reading all the time and showing on my fan controller display. This is how my coolant temps are all the time. NEVER have they gone to 4c higher than ambient or above to say 9c as stated. So you can't say, there's something wrong because coolant temp at 2c over ambient isn't "normal" or I have sensor in bad place. This is correct reading and how my custom loop runs with Noctua's running at 1200rpm's, Maybe if I put at 1500rpm max, it might drop a couple points of a degree lower. But as the pic's show, my coolant only went up just under 2c higher than ambient was showing on the thermometer. My loop runs great IMO









Edit: Just noticed that you can also see the TIME in the thermometer display showing from start to end


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ok so this is a tightly off topic but deals with watercoing (atleast the looks side of it). I want to light up the area around my cpu. But the phanteks case with a rad I stalled up top doesn't give much if any room in the back side of the top rad to mount an led strip. I was thinking of rigging it up somehow in my 5.25 bays. It should I get leds for the cpu block itself (if so what's a good brand bc every led bulb 3mm or 5mm I bought (xspc, generic, eBay ) all dye out very quick. Any thoughts to get some light in there without having the light either showing or where it glares and looks awful. This is currently how it is setup. White led on back side , bottom and top in front of the rad. .


I mounted some vertically on the bays cages to highlight mine. I don't like the wires that would be exposed on the MB for single LED's and the fact that they burn out quite quick.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Ok, I just ran Heaven benchmark for 10min straight to get some temps under load after I was at idle reading OCN and laughing at TCO's funny comments.......g on the thermometer. My loop runs great IMO


How do the readings differ between the temp gun and the sensors in the water?


----------



## Kritikill

edit


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Ok, I just ran Heaven benchmark for 10min straight to get some temps under load after I was at idle reading OCN and laughing at TCO's funny comments
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here goes, I took a first shot of water temp at the hottest point which is right after my Titan X and I took all the shots with the thermometer in the same picture. I also took a picture of the thermometer's reading and the temp gun pointed right at it so you could see how accurate the temp gun was VS the thermometer so there's no questioning that part. Then I ran heaven for 10min straight with Cpu at 5ghz and Titan X at 1302mhz / 7200mhz (+100/+100) ... Then while the Heaven benchmark was still running I took a pic of heaven to the side of CoreTemp, and Precision X showing with Heaven still running.
> 
> 1st, idle temps and ambient temp before starting the Benchmark
> 
> 
> 2nd, Temp gun compared to the thermometer so there's no funny business going on, or shall we say "no TCO business going on"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd, Load temps of water after 10min of Heaven with it still running at the hottest point in my loop, right on the outlet of the Titan X
> 
> 
> 4th, pic of Heaven to the left with CoreTemp showing Cpu temps @ 5ghz on top of Precision X showing Titan X @ 1302mhz / 7200mhz
> 
> 
> This is the hottest my coolant temps will ever get over ambient. I would just like to have a actual sensor inside the water giving me a better temp reading all the time and showing on my fan controller display. This is how my coolant temps are all the time. NEVER have they gone to 4c higher than ambient or above to say 9c as stated. So you can't say, there's something wrong because coolant temp at 2c over ambient isn't "normal" or I have sensor in bad place. This is correct reading and how my custom loop runs with Noctua's running at 1200rpm's, Maybe if I put at 1500rpm max, it might drop a couple points of a degree lower. But as the pic's show, my coolant only went up just under 2c higher than ambient was showing on the thermometer. My loop runs great IMO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Just noticed that you can also see the TIME in the thermometer display showing from start to end


The relation between ambient and Delta T is not linear. you are @ 20C ambient. it's way different if you were at 26c ambient.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> edit


Don't have a sensor in the water yet, that was my original question before someone stated that water 2c above ambient is NOT NORMAL and I had to show that was how it was and wasn't +9c. I have no reason at all to LIE to anyone and that would do nothing but have me lying to myself. I don't win anything for LYING nor do I lie about stuff like this. We aren't here to lie to each other, we are here to help each other out and get better results and idea's from one another. So it kinda bugs me when someone will state that pretty much I am lying. Pet peeve LOL.

I would like to add a sensor tho so I can just look at that on the front of my case and not have to open the side panel to get readings. The temp gun will just read the plexi window and not read through it. I don't like keeping my side panel off either. So for only $8 I would love to add one. Just not sure where would be best as I don't have extra ports on my rads. I have the other ports on my gpu block, or on the side of my EK X-Res that I could use very easily without having to change the loop. If I have to add something, then that's ok too. I wouldn't mind adding in a flow sensor, not just a spinning plastic wheel which I already bought and don't really like. I seen some flow meters that have sensor wire coming off of it. I'm pretty sure that was showing the flow speed and not just temp, but if there's one that does both even better.

I need some food now. I'll be back. I worked up an appetite


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> So I need "Club Mate's" opinions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since this was my first build, there were a few things that I looked that I thought needed changing or came up with ideas after the fact. The biggest change would be the idea of a new side panel and accents. I am torn, so I am looking for your help to see what looks better. I love the Mythosaur, but not sure that I like the huge block on the side panel. I still have some other cool ideas to go with the new.
> 
> I just need to be pulled away or pushed over the cliff.
> 
> Original
> 
> 
> New
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Both are awesome, though the og one looks better imho


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> edit
> 
> 
> 
> Don't have a sensor in the water yet, that was my original question before someone stated that water 2c above ambient is NOT NORMAL and I had to show that was how it was and wasn't +9c. I have no reason at all to LIE to anyone and that would do nothing but have me lying to myself. I don't win anything for LYING nor do I lie about stuff like this. We aren't here to lie to each other, we are here to help each other out and get better results and idea's from one another. So it kinda bugs me when someone will state that pretty much I am lying. Pet peeve LOL.
> 
> I would like to add a sensor tho so I can just look at that on the front of my case and not have to open the side panel to get readings. The temp gun will just read the plexi window and not read through it. I don't like keeping my side panel off either. So for only $8 I would love to add one. Just not sure where would be best as I don't have extra ports on my rads. I have the other ports on my gpu block, or on the side of my EK X-Res that I could use very easily without having to change the loop. *If I have to add something, then that's ok too. I wouldn't mind adding in a flow sensor, not just a spinning plastic wheel which I already bought and don't really like. I seen some flow meters that have sensor wire coming off of it. I'm pretty sure that was showing the flow speed and not just temp, but if there's one that does both even better.
> *
> I need some food now. I'll be back. I worked up an appetite
Click to expand...

Here ya go, an inline flow meter with integrated temp sensor: use it with the display unit and connect the temp sensor to your fan controller

http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/koolance-sen-fm18t10-coolant-flow-meter-with-temperature-sensor-10k.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/5-1-4-inch-bay-products/new-koolance-flow-meter-adapter-with-display.html

Darlene


----------



## mus1mus

Temp guns are inaccurate when pointed to glossy things. And pointing a gun to a tube will not relate to your water temps.

Take a little time to read

With that rad space and components being cooled, I doubt you'll get a 2C delta.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

My gun says it's no accurate on reflective surfaces. Any dark matte surface should get an accurate reading.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Ok, I just ran Heaven benchmark for 10min straight to get some temps under load after I was at idle reading OCN and laughing at TCO's funny comments
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here goes, I took a first shot of water temp at the hottest point which is right after my Titan X and I took all the shots with the thermometer in the same picture. I also took a picture of the thermometer's reading and the temp gun pointed right at it so you could see how accurate the temp gun was VS the thermometer so there's no questioning that part. Then I ran heaven for 10min straight with Cpu at 5ghz and Titan X at 1302mhz / 7200mhz (+100/+100) ... Then while the Heaven benchmark was still running I took a pic of heaven to the side of CoreTemp, and Precision X showing with Heaven still running.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1st, idle temps and ambient temp before starting the Benchmark
> 
> 
> 2nd, Temp gun compared to the thermometer so there's no funny business going on, or shall we say "no TCO business going on"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd, Load temps of water after 10min of Heaven with it still running at the hottest point in my loop, right on the outlet of the Titan X
> 
> 
> 4th, pic of Heaven to the left with CoreTemp showing Cpu temps @ 5ghz on top of Precision X showing Titan X @ 1302mhz / 7200mhz
> 
> 
> 
> This is the hottest my coolant temps will ever get over ambient. I would just like to have a actual sensor inside the water giving me a better temp reading all the time and showing on my fan controller display. This is how my coolant temps are all the time. NEVER have they gone to 4c higher than ambient or above to say 9c as stated. So you can't say, there's something wrong because coolant temp at 2c over ambient isn't "normal" or I have sensor in bad place. This is correct reading and how my custom loop runs with Noctua's running at 1200rpm's, Maybe if I put at 1500rpm max, it might drop a couple points of a degree lower. But as the pic's show, my coolant only went up just under 2c higher than ambient was showing on the thermometer. My loop runs great IMO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Just noticed that you can also see the TIME in the thermometer display showing from start to end


interesting .. your ambient went up by 0.7 degrees in 10 mins


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Don't have a sensor in the water yet, that was my original question before someone stated that water 2c above ambient is NOT NORMAL and I had to show that was how it was and wasn't +9c. I have no reason at all to LIE to anyone and that would do nothing but have me lying to myself. I don't win anything for LYING nor do I lie about stuff like this. We aren't here to lie to each other, we are here to help each other out and get better results and idea's from one another. So it kinda bugs me when someone will state that pretty much I am lying. Pet peeve LOL.
> 
> I would like to add a sensor tho so I can just look at that on the front of my case and not have to open the side panel to get readings. The temp gun will just read the plexi window and not read through it. I don't like keeping my side panel off either. So for only $8 I would love to add one. Just not sure where would be best as I don't have extra ports on my rads. I have the other ports on my gpu block, or on the side of my EK X-Res that I could use very easily without having to change the loop. If I have to add something, then that's ok too. I wouldn't mind adding in a flow sensor, not just a spinning plastic wheel which I already bought and don't really like. I seen some flow meters that have sensor wire coming off of it. I'm pretty sure that was showing the flow speed and not just temp, but if there's one that does both even better.
> 
> I need some food now. I'll be back. I worked up an appetite


I didn't catch the part where someone called you out, lol. Silly Interwebz.
I just ran a Uni Heaven 4.0 to see how things compared. I never saw much more than +3C on the tubing and what my temp sensors, on output, were reporting. Here is the data collected. Ambient room temp is around 23-24C
Data:


Water Temp Idle:


End of Bench:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Both are awesome, though the og one looks better imho


Damn it, lol. I appreciate the input. I just prefer the more open panel...is it the helmet throwing it off? I wanted to keep something there to cover the 5.25" bay cage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here ya go, an inline flow meter with integrated temp sensor: use it with the display unit and connect the temp sensor to your fan controller
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/koolance-sen-fm18t10-coolant-flow-meter-with-temperature-sensor-10k.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/5-1-4-inch-bay-products/new-koolance-flow-meter-adapter-with-display.html
> 
> Darlene


What, if any, are the advantages of having a 10k sensor? I had two, but they did not work with my Lamptron FC5v3, so I bought some XSPC sensors.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> interesting .. your ambient went up by 0.7 degrees in 10 mins


Nice catch!!


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Temp guns are inaccurate when pointed to glossy things. And pointing a gun to a tube will not relate to your water temps.
> 
> Take a little time to read
> 
> With that rad space and components being cooled, I doubt you'll get a 2C delta.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> My gun says it's no accurate on reflective surfaces. Any dark matte surface should get an accurate reading.


Would Scotch tape work? It's a matte surface and I wouldn't think it would throw off the temps too much.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> If your water temp is that much higher than ambient, then you would need to fix something I'd say. My water temp is no where near 9c over ambient while gaming with my current loop. At most might be 3c higher at MOST. I have checked with my temp gun many times throughout my building and tweaking of my water loop. I also am a FIRM believer of having 2 rads in my loop and having them at different points in the loop to keep things cooler that way. Some say it doesn't matter, I have seen that it does help. When I was running just my quad 480mm 60mm thick rad on my cpu, mobo, 2 gpu's all in a row and then going to the quad, my coolant temp coming out of the last gpu was a good 10c hotter than coming out of my rad and starting over. With my current loop, that is not the case. I will take a picture of the temps across my loop and show you. I will let Heaven loop or something like that to bring my gpu temps as high as they can get and my cpu is now running at 5ghz with 1.300v (1.312v load) and I have EIST and C states disabled so my Cpu sits at 5ghz the whole time and volts don't drop either. My titan x is overclocked to 1302mhz on stock volts for gaming 24/7 for now, and I just added my Maximus 6 Formula to my loop last night as my VRM temps on the mobo were starting to get around 50c with the 5ghz overclock since I changed my VRM's to extreme for better current for the cpu to run lower voltage and stay stable.
> 
> My loop runs like this, starting at the Res
> 
> EK X-Res 140 D5 vario set at 3, goes to my Cpu @ 5ghz, then right into my VRM block, out from that to my EK PE 240mm Rad (to get water back to ambient before going to gpu) , then goes into my Titan X @ 1302mhz / 7200mhz , into my 2nd pump (Phobya DC12-260 @ 85%) for extra reliability, then to my EK PE 360mm Rad to cool back down to ambient before going back to my Res.
> 
> So, [ Res > Pump > Cpu > VRM's > 240mm > Gpu > Pump > 360mm > Res ]
> 
> I have 5 Noctua NF-F12 fans on my rads in push config. Those are pretty much the best fans you can put on a rad at the sound level they produce. Sure there are other fans out there that can push more air, but the Noctua's are designed for "static pressure" and were made specifically for rads. I didn't think that they were all that cracked up to be what everyone said, and all the reviews always showing them as the best top fans out there, and being the best AIR Cpu cooler you can pretty much get, so I never even pick up the box for one of those and have always bought other fans because 1st of all, the Noctua's are $30 each and that's pretty expensive when you start adding them up. I have 5 total on my rads and that cost me $165 after tax just to get those and I didn't want to spend that because I didn't think they were going to do anything better. Boy was I WRONG!! Those are the nicest feeling fans I have ever had in my hands. They are about twice as heavy as the Coolermaster SickleFlows that I liked the most because they work great and have lots of options for different color Led's and are NOT to bright like some other Led fans. I was pretty amazed when I opened the boxes and pulled one out. They really are worth the money they cost after you see all the stuff they did to them to make them work as good as they do with being SO quiet. They run at 1500rpm max, but I run mine at 1200rpm if I'm going to game for a while, or 900rpm if I'm doing anything light duty or surfing the net. I do run them at 1500rpm's if I'm benching, or stress testing tho and they make a little bit of noise, but the noise they make isn't an annoying sound, it's different than other fans really. I am very pleased with them even at that high cost.
> 
> I'll add some pictures in just a few as they come into my email.


Your loop is very similar to mine except I have water and air sensors connected to an Aquaero. There is nothing wrong with the way the loop works. There is something wrong with the way you are measuring Delta's. A 2C delta at full gaming load is just simply not possible sorry with that rad space.
A strong hint that there is a problem with the way you are measuring temps is the 10C difference in temps after a radiator. They just don't work like that unless you had an unimaginably low flow rate. The other would be that water temps apparently didn't change even with an extra card added that significantly increases the heat load the rads have to deal with.

Just by looking at testing data done by Martin, Fast Fate and Stren its easy to see that two PE rads couldn't cool that well even under ideal test conditions let alone in a standard PC case.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here ya go, an inline flow meter with integrated temp sensor: use it with the display unit and connect the temp sensor to your fan controller
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/koolance-sen-fm18t10-coolant-flow-meter-with-temperature-sensor-10k.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/5-1-4-inch-bay-products/new-koolance-flow-meter-adapter-with-display.html
> 
> Darlene


Thank you very much!! I will check those out. I would love to have a digital flow meter in my loop just to see whats going on, and also would help out when trying to adjust pump speeds when running more than 1 pump like I am in this loop. I appreciate it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> The relation between ambient and Delta T is not linear. you are @ 20C ambient. it's way different if you were at 26c ambient.


You are exactly right my friend







. I try to tell that to people all the time. What your Load temps are when ambient is around 20-21.1c (68-70f) are not that bad in delta's, but move up to 25.5-26.6 (78-80f) and your Load temps will go way higher than before and your delta's will go up a lot more as well. I agree with you 100% in that regards. I like to keep my place between 20-22.2 (68-72f) personally and I will turn on the AC if I have too lol. This is also why I have gone to a full custom loop and put everything that creates any heat in my system under water so that my pc doesn't dump any heat out the back and heat up my place at all. I've had plenty of PC space heaters before and then you are doing nothing but fighting it with AC and dumping your money out of your wallet. I would rather dump it out into pc parts that will save me in the end.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> interesting .. your ambient went up by 0.7 degrees in 10 mins


My thermometer was moved somewhat in front of my 2nd pump closer to the air coming out of the rad even tho the air barely blows out with the fans at low speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Temp guns are inaccurate when pointed to glossy things. And pointing a gun to a tube will not relate to your water temps.
> 
> Take a little time to read
> 
> With that rad space and components being cooled, I doubt you'll get a 2C delta.


I can pretty much walk my temp gun all the way down my loop from matte finish on rads, to the tubes anywhere, to my matte cpu block, on my compression fittings that are pretty much chromed, or in the fins inside the back/out of my rads and the temps are pretty much the same, within 1c of anywhere pretty much. I have walked down my loop and even pointed the gun at my coolant in my res with the lid off and the difference's were minimal to not just point anywhere and get a good reading. My tubes are not giving off a bad reading when my ambient temps are around 20-22c. i would not point it there if it were giving me bad info. I will add a temp sensor so that reads exactly what my temps are and I will go even further than that and put a thermometer into my res so it's reading the temp right in the water there as well. I like to double check temp guns or thermometers because I have seen many that were not accurate like the one we have at work that is off by 4 degrees in fahrenheit from 70 it shows 74. The gun I have now is pretty darn accurate from all the checking and comparing I have done. There is many people that will tell you that your water temp will only be a couple degrees in celsius over ambient, if you set up a good high flow loop. Most loops that are slow flowing I've seen the delta of the water a lot warmer, but that's not my case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Your loop is very similar to mine except I have water and air sensors connected to an Aquaero. There is nothing wrong with the way the loop works. There is something wrong with the way you are measuring Delta's. A 2C delta at full gaming load is just simply not possible sorry with that rad space.
> A strong hint that there is a problem with the way you are measuring temps is the 10C difference in temps after a radiator. They just don't work like that unless you had an unimaginably low flow rate. The other would be that water temps apparently didn't change even with an extra card added that significantly increases the heat load the rads have to deal with.
> 
> Just by looking at testing data done by Martin, Fast Fate and Stren its easy to see that two PE rads couldn't cool that well even under ideal test conditions let alone in a standard PC case.


You are crazy to say that the EK PE rads aren't good at cooling. These rads work very good compared to many that I have used and installed in many systems. I can't complain one bit. With my ambient temps at 20c, my Titan X only gets to 36c under load after hours of gaming. I just pulled 2 780ti's off my system and the load temps on those were only 36-38c with the same loop besides the only change being that now I have a EK Xres 140 D5 vario instead of the EK Xres 2.2 pump, and last night I added my mobo block into the loop as well. My loop does not get hot nor does my coolant. Don't base what my setup is doing off of someone else's tests. If I have to bust out the GoPro and set that up and record things from idle state, to running stress tests on the cpu, to running benchmarks looped, with sensors in every spot of my system I can if this is such a hard concept to believe, but it seem like it is with how many of you guys are disagreeing to what I have shown and said.

I had some Kraken G10's with H55's hooked up to each of my 780ti's and those got hot. the outside of the rads were at 55-60c and I had to run push/pull with fans at full speed just to keep them down and my load temps on the 780ti's dropped to 45/46c. I was not happy really with the results and that they were blowing warm air out of them both and would eventually heat up my place in the summer. The warmer it gets the worst it gets and a lot faster.

You seriously think that 2 PE rads can't cool well in a 540 air with the hardware I have hooked up? What is your idea of not good then? We have different thoughts on whats good or whats bad then I would have to say HAHAHAHA.

The 10c difference was with a completely different system and there was a cpu block on that system that didn't flow well and restricted the flow like crazy. You put a low flow setup on 3 gtx480's inline and you will see water coming out of those pretty hot. Send that through a Feser Quad 480 60mm thick with push pull and the temps of the water will drop like crazy. It was the only rad on that loop. There is pics if you dig through the pics in my profile from 4 or 5 years ago. I replace that cpu block with a better flowing one and things got better. Then I actually took that block to work and modded it myself with putting it on a mill and milled my own slots in the base of the block and then it flowed like crazy and dropped the temps of that setup a ton. I still have that quad 60mm thick rad and I will take using these 2 EK PE rads any day of the week over the other one. These ones will fit in a lot more cases and can also be split in the loop and not ran back to back which is something I personally like. Not everyone has the same likes or dislikes but I can not say these rads I have now don't cool well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> If this thread gets closed for cleaning. I'll blame @TheCautiousOne


Sure, Sure, Always TCO's Fault









Leds?





The Cautious One..

Just a matter of time before I was able to get home and back on track.


----------



## SteezyTN

@TheCautiousOnehow does it look with the panel/window on?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> @TheCautiousOnehow does it look with the panel/window on?


I have no Idea, I have yet to take that paper stuff they cover the Window with from Caselabs... Ill let you know









TCO


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> You are crazy to say that the EK PE rads aren't good at cooling. These rads work very good compared to many that I have used and installed in many systems. I can't complain one bit. With my ambient temps at 20c, my Titan X only gets to 36c under load after hours of gaming. I just pulled 2 780ti's off my system and the load temps on those were only 36-38c with the same loop besides the only change being that now I have a EK Xres 140 D5 vario instead of the EK Xres 2.2 pump, and last night I added my mobo block into the loop as well. My loop does not get hot nor does my coolant. Don't base what my setup is doing off of someone else's tests. If I have to bust out the GoPro and set that up and record things from idle state, to running stress tests on the cpu, to running benchmarks looped, with sensors in every spot of my system I can if this is such a hard concept to believe, but it seem like it is with how many of you guys are disagreeing to what I have shown and said.
> 
> I had some Kraken G10's with H55's hooked up to each of my 780ti's and those got hot. the outside of the rads were at 55-60c and I had to run push/pull with fans at full speed just to keep them down and my load temps on the 780ti's dropped to 45/46c. I was not happy really with the results and that they were blowing warm air out of them both and would eventually heat up my place in the summer. The warmer it gets the worst it gets and a lot faster.
> 
> You seriously think that 2 PE rads can't cool well in a 540 air with the hardware I have hooked up? What is your idea of not good then? We have different thoughts on whats good or whats bad then I would have to say HAHAHAHA.
> 
> The 10c difference was with a completely different system and there was a cpu block on that system that didn't flow well and restricted the flow like crazy. You put a low flow setup on 3 gtx480's inline and you will see water coming out of those pretty hot. Send that through a Feser Quad 480 60mm thick with push pull and the temps of the water will drop like crazy. It was the only rad on that loop. There is pics if you dig through the pics in my profile from 4 or 5 years ago. I replace that cpu block with a better flowing one and things got better. Then I actually took that block to work and modded it myself with putting it on a mill and milled my own slots in the base of the block and then it flowed like crazy and dropped the temps of that setup a ton. I still have that quad 60mm thick rad and I will take using these 2 EK PE rads any day of the week over the other one. These ones will fit in a lot more cases and can also be split in the loop and not ran back to back which is something I personally like. Not everyone has the same likes or dislikes but I can not say these rads I have now don't cool well.


I didn't say the PE rads weren't good. I wouldn't use them if they weren't any good. They just aren't magic.
If your Ambient is 20C and your GPU temps are 36C then your water is over 6C above ambient. Look at testing of similar GPU water blocks and you will see that under an overclocked Furmark max heat load the GPU will be around 10C over the water temp. Gaming load the water temp will be closer to GPU temp.
Why wouldn't anyone compare your system to tests? You think your system is somehow better than ideal test conditions?

In Fast Fates recent testing of the PE rads under ideal unrestricted conditions and push pull fans at 1300RPM the two PE rads could cool roughly 550W at a 10C delta. Even if your system only puts out half of that, it would mean a 5C delta. Your system isn't ideal test conditions and def puts out more than 275W of heat. So, to get that 2C delta you either have the most efficient rads ever made or the coolest system ever built.

Not sure why this has gotten you so frantic. Nobody said anything about lying but you. You are just mistaken. You will see when you have proper sensors.

There is a simple way to get a close idea of your Delta. With the system idling after just starting up look at the GPU temp. Then play a game or load the system for a while and check the GPU temp again straight after. The difference in these two temps will be very close to your delta.

Edit: Missed a bit.
Over a small ambient temp variance like 5 to 10C water loop delta is very close to exactly linear in relationship. That is the very reason we use Deltas to measure performance.
Exactly how much do think your delta will change if the ambient is 20C vs 25C?

Just take a look at Bundymanias old 360 rad roundup where he was testing 360 rads cooling only a CPU. The very best temps he got at 1500RPM was over 5C.
The idea that adding a 240 rad to cool a GPU as well could lead to anything like a 2C delta is pure weapons grade bolonium. Just like the idea that a rad is "returning the coolant to ambient before going to the GPU"


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Thank you very much!! I will check those out. I would love to have a digital flow meter in my loop just to see whats going on, and also would help out when trying to adjust pump speeds when running more than 1 pump like I am in this loop. I appreciate it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are exactly right my friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I try to tell that to people all the time. What your Load temps are when ambient is around 20-21.1c (68-70f) are not that bad in delta's, but move up to 25.5-26.6 (78-80f) and your Load temps will go way higher than before and your delta's will go up a lot more as well. I agree with you 100% in that regards. I like to keep my place between 20-22.2 (68-72f) personally and I will turn on the AC if I have too lol. This is also why I have gone to a full custom loop and put everything that creates any heat in my system under water so that my pc doesn't dump any heat out the back and heat up my place at all. I've had plenty of PC space heaters before and then you are doing nothing but fighting it with AC and dumping your money out of your wallet. I would rather dump it out into pc parts that will save me in the end.
> My thermometer was moved somewhat in front of my 2nd pump closer to the air coming out of the rad even tho the air barely blows out with the fans at low speed.
> I can pretty much walk my temp gun all the way down my loop from matte finish on rads, to the tubes anywhere, to my matte cpu block, on my compression fittings that are pretty much chromed, or in the fins inside the back/out of my rads and the temps are pretty much the same, within 1c of anywhere pretty much. I have walked down my loop and even pointed the gun at my coolant in my res with the lid off and the difference's were minimal to not just point anywhere and get a good reading. My tubes are not giving off a bad reading when my ambient temps are around 20-22c. i would not point it there if it were giving me bad info. I will add a temp sensor so that reads exactly what my temps are and I will go even further than that and put a thermometer into my res so it's reading the temp right in the water there as well. I like to double check temp guns or thermometers because I have seen many that were not accurate like the one we have at work that is off by 4 degrees in fahrenheit from 70 it shows 74. The gun I have now is pretty darn accurate from all the checking and comparing I have done. There is many people that will tell you that your water temp will only be a couple degrees in celsius over ambient, if you set up a good high flow loop. Most loops that are slow flowing I've seen the delta of the water a lot warmer, but that's not my case.
> You are crazy to say that the EK PE rads aren't good at cooling. These rads work very good compared to many that I have used and installed in many systems. I can't complain one bit. With my ambient temps at 20c, my Titan X only gets to 36c under load after hours of gaming. I just pulled 2 780ti's off my system and the load temps on those were only 36-38c with the same loop besides the only change being that now I have a EK Xres 140 D5 vario instead of the EK Xres 2.2 pump, and last night I added my mobo block into the loop as well. My loop does not get hot nor does my coolant. Don't base what my setup is doing off of someone else's tests. If I have to bust out the GoPro and set that up and record things from idle state, to running stress tests on the cpu, to running benchmarks looped, with sensors in every spot of my system I can if this is such a hard concept to believe, but it seem like it is with how many of you guys are disagreeing to what I have shown and said.
> 
> I had some Kraken G10's with H55's hooked up to each of my 780ti's and those got hot. the outside of the rads were at 55-60c and I had to run push/pull with fans at full speed just to keep them down and my load temps on the 780ti's dropped to 45/46c. I was not happy really with the results and that they were blowing warm air out of them both and would eventually heat up my place in the summer. The warmer it gets the worst it gets and a lot faster.
> 
> You seriously think that 2 PE rads can't cool well in a 540 air with the hardware I have hooked up? What is your idea of not good then? We have different thoughts on whats good or whats bad then I would have to say HAHAHAHA.
> 
> The 10c difference was with a completely different system and there was a cpu block on that system that didn't flow well and restricted the flow like crazy. You put a low flow setup on 3 gtx480's inline and you will see water coming out of those pretty hot. Send that through a Feser Quad 480 60mm thick with push pull and the temps of the water will drop like crazy. It was the only rad on that loop. There is pics if you dig through the pics in my profile from 4 or 5 years ago. I replace that cpu block with a better flowing one and things got better. Then I actually took that block to work and modded it myself with putting it on a mill and milled my own slots in the base of the block and then it flowed like crazy and dropped the temps of that setup a ton. I still have that quad 60mm thick rad and I will take using these 2 EK PE rads any day of the week over the other one. These ones will fit in a lot more cases and can also be split in the loop and not ran bac





k to back which is something I personally like. Not everyone has the same likes or dislikes but I can not say these rads I have now don't cool well.



Jak is not saying the PE are bad rads mate he never said that. He only said that your delta air-water is not what you think it is because there is something wrong with the measurements or method you are using to gauge the water temp. And in fact there is. A temp gun will not give you accurate measurements of your liquid. In fact if your ek block on the gpu is around 36 degrees and the only thing in the loop (no other block) you can be certain that your water temp is around ~30-32 C because the block approach the water temp in the long run and not 25 C as you think your water is with the heat gun. Put a temp prob there (and best, calibrate the temp probe cap before putting in the loop) and you will known your water temp. Also be mindful that the desktop generates a lot of heat that will heat up the air around the PC. So as the water temp goes up so does the ambient temps if your are measuring close to the pc.... Just mine


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I can pretty much walk my temp gun all the way down my loop from matte finish on rads, to the tubes anywhere, to my matte cpu block, on my compression fittings that are pretty much chromed, or in the fins inside the back/out of my rads and the temps are pretty much the same, within 1c of anywhere pretty much. I have walked down my loop and even pointed the gun at my coolant in my res with the lid off and the difference's were minimal to not just point anywhere and get a good reading. My tubes are not giving off a bad reading when my ambient temps are around 20-22c. i would not point it there if it were giving me bad info. I will add a temp sensor so that reads exactly what my temps are and I will go even further than that and put a thermometer into my res so it's reading the temp right in the water there as well. I like to double check temp guns or thermometers because I have seen many that were not accurate like the one we have at work that is off by 4 degrees in fahrenheit from 70 it shows 74. The gun I have now is pretty darn accurate from all the checking and comparing I have done. There is many people that will tell you that your water temp will only be a couple degrees in celsius over ambient, if you set up a good high flow loop. Most loops that are slow flowing I've seen the delta of the water a lot warmer, but that's not my case.


In that sense, I'd say you neglected to read the said link:
Quote:


> ----#2 An infrared thermometer will tell you the internal temperature
> 
> This is another myth worth busting. *An infrared thermometer is a surface temperature tool - period*. If you're grilling, baking, smoking, or roasting you're going to need a penetration probe to tell you the internal temperature of the food you're cooking. *An infrared will only give you the surface temperature of the food, and depending on your optical range, the temp of the surrounding grill, skillet, oven, etc.*
> Ideally you would use infrared thermometers to temp the surface of hot oil, a cast iron skillet, a saute pan, even chocolate and soup. However, whipping out your infrared "laser gun" to temp burgers on the grill may have you explaining to your guests why they're undercooked.


To relate to your story, the reading you are getting can be a mixture of a lot of things.

And btw, I can see nothing major was changed on the position of your thermometer from the pics you posted. As opposed to your reasoning that it was moved closer to the rad.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Hambone07si

I was only moving it to get better light on the display so that I could get both in the same picture. And yes I know that a temp gun only reads surface temps. That was exactly what I was reading. With water flowing through a tube like it does at such a fast flow rate, the outside of the tube isn't going to be that much different than the water passing through it. At most is probably .5c I would say, but with how much disagreement there is on this subject I am going to leave it alone until I get some sensors in the water. I don't like to go back and forth like this lol. Another day guys. Have a good night


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Damn it, lol. I appreciate the input. I just prefer the more open panel...is it the helmet throwing it off? I wanted to keep something there to cover the 5.25" bay cage.


The new is really nice, but I do like to see things off the norm. The L window and the design on the metal panel really give it a nice touch. Though, having a star wars theme is very uncommon from what I see is common these days tbh. So, you could say the new is off the beaten path as well







. Did you have boba laser'ed or vinyl sticker?


----------



## cgull

@ mus1mus Is a penetration probe something like a beef bayonet?







.. sorry I couldn't let that one slide


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sure, Sure, Always TCO's Fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leds?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One..
> 
> Just a matter of time before I was able to get home and back on track.


Something about the color in those pics make the red look like V8 tomato juice.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> @ mus1mus Is a penetration probe something like a beef bayonet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. sorry I couldn't let that one slide


Lady said it's sort of that the first time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I was only moving it to get better light on the display so that I could get both in the same picture. And yes I know that a temp gun only reads surface temps. That was exactly what I was reading. With water flowing through a tube like it does at such a fast flow rate, the outside of the tube isn't going to be that much different than the water passing through it. At most is probably .5c I would say, but with how much disagreement there is on this subject I am going to leave it alone until I get some sensors in the water. I don't like to go back and forth like this lol. Another day guys. Have a good night


Take a household thermometer and drop it in the res,you don't need a sensor to get coolant temp for comparative testing.
IR thermometers are not ideal for coolant temps.

If you wish to validate your claims then use the IR gun on the res body or tube to confirm.

The results you already posted are not inline with multiple existing test results,this is why its being treated with skepticism as you can understand.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sure, Sure, Always TCO's Fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leds?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One..
> 
> Just a matter of time before I was able to get home and back on track.


Ketchup and Salsa Verde

Nice coolants dude


----------



## p5ych00n5

Hmmmmm, not liking this ugly space where you can see the fancontroller wiring, what can I do












Success












And another little update, white PCI slot covers


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I didn't say the PE rads weren't good. I wouldn't use them if they weren't any good. They just aren't magic.
> *If your Ambient is 20C and your GPU temps are 36C then your water is over 6C above ambient.* Look at testing of similar GPU water blocks and you will see that under an overclocked Furmark max heat load the GPU will be around 10C over the water temp. *Gaming load the water temp will be closer to GPU temp.*


I have not done any type of physical water temp testing but I do notice my gpu and cpu temps do not get better as turn the gentle typhoons up from 1000rpm. So 1000rpm is getting me the same temps as 1850rpm or at most 1-2c.

I thought it was because my rad to wattage ratio was decent with a little more than 240mm per block. Gaming temps are 45c gpu (gtx 970) and 60c cpu (4790k) with 22c ambient. I never ran furmark but gpu only benchmarks like valley or heaven do not even get to 40c.

So the bolded portion above means my water temps are near 45c? That would be 23c delta over ambient.

Is that correct? 23c is much worse than I thought it was if thats accurate.


----------



## Trestles126

Few updates ready to leak test after I find a bitspower 90 degree hard fitting in white for 12mm in the states everyone is out of stock. Last piece to the puzzle. Running blood red ek fluid as I had pretty good luck with it in my previous loop. The lower rad has bits quick disconnects and I have a cover plate made to cover the 120mm fan hole.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I have not done any type of physical water temp testing but I do notice my gpu and cpu temps do not get better as turn the gentle typhoons up from 1000rpm. So 1000rpm is getting me the same temps as 1850rpm or at most 1-2c.
> 
> I thought it was because my rad to wattage ratio was decent with a little more than 240mm per block. Gaming temps are 45c gpu (gtx 970) and 60c cpu (4790k) with 22c ambient. I never ran furmark but gpu only benchmarks like valley or heaven do not even get to 40c.
> 
> So the bolded portion above means my water temps are near 45c? That would be 23c delta over ambient.
> 
> Is that correct? 23c is much worse than I thought it was if thats accurate.


From what he's stating there in the bold, if your gpu's are at 45c, then your water temp is 35c, which would be 13c over your 22c ambient. That would be pretty warm and I think you would feel warm air coming out of your rads. Well gaming load he says will be higher than that tho, so I guess 15-20c over ambient? That's very warm if so lol.

Your gaming temps are higher than your benching temps? My gaming temps are always a 2c to up to 10c lower than benching with something like Heaven looping for a while. GTA V pushes my system pretty hard especially the cpu, but even that game my temps are 3c lower than Heaven is IF I'm playing on my Asus Swift at 2560x1440 @144hz so the TX is pretty much at 99% all the time. If I put GTA V on to my 65" tv at 1080p, then my temps are way lower, around 29-32c since my TX isn't running at 99%, more like 40-70% with maxed game settings. I haven't had any game push my temps on my gpu's higher than Heaven does. Some have come close, 2c lower, but never went higher as in 5c. Interesting one there.

And DAME, you guys are making me want a CaseLabs pc case pretty bad. They are pretty costly tho. The thing that kills me is having to wait for it. If there was some sitting on the shelf at Microcenter, I would get one in a heartbeat lol. I can't stand waiting. I even go nuts sometimes waiting for a next day air shipment


----------



## Trestles126

And the on off for the drain didn't work out as planned do to it bribing everything up to high may just remove it. Though it may still be useful when draining.

Anyone have any recommendations on how to light up resivour? The clear plugs with leds don't seem to do much


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Few updates ready to leak test after I find a bitspower 90 degree hard fitting in white for 12mm in the states everyone is out of stock. Last piece to the puzzle. Running blood red ek fluid as I had pretty good luck with it in my previous loop. The lower rad has bits quick disconnects and I have a cover plate made to cover the 120mm fan hole.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The 90 degree dual rotary? Or the 90 degree dual link thing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Something about the color in those pics make the red look like V8 tomato juice.


It's the camera... But The Orange is quite darker than I originally thought it would be....







I could add a little yellow pastel to lighten yes?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Ketchup and Salsa Verde
> 
> Nice coolants dude


Just a couple Lime Tortilla Chips is all I need..... Thinking of that though... I just probably stay away from the coolant.... I woke up this morning with images of Bneg.... and..... I needed coffee quick you know... Goodness.









TCO


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> The 90 degree dual rotary? Or the 90 degree dual link thing.


The rotary fitting for my ram block


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> The rotary fitting for my ram block


I might have a spare one.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> From what he's stating there in the bold, if your gpu's are at 45c, then your water temp is 35c, which would be 13c over your 22c ambient. That would be pretty warm and I think you would feel warm air coming out of your rads. Well gaming load he says will be higher than that tho, so I guess 15-20c over ambient? That's very warm if so lol.
> 
> *Your gaming temps are higher than your benching temps? My gaming temps are always a 2c to up to 10c lower than benching with something like Heaven looping for a while.* GTA V pushes my system pretty hard especially the cpu, but even that game my temps are 3c lower than Heaven is IF I'm playing on my Asus Swift at 2560x1440 @144hz so the TX is pretty much at 99% all the time. If I put GTA V on to my 65" tv at 1080p, then my temps are way lower, around 29-32c since my TX isn't running at 99%, more like 40-70% with maxed game settings. I haven't had any game push my temps on my gpu's higher than Heaven does. Some have come close, 2c lower, but never went higher as in 5c. Interesting one there.


Any load that basically only loads the gpu is 38-39c such as Valley. Msi Kombusters is also running at 40c. I only ever see 45c gpu when the cpu is being pushed up to 60-65c during cpu intensive games like bf4 with no limit on the fps. Gta v will also show 45c as max reached gpu temp after 1-2 hours.

So whenever the test or game loads the cpu and the gpu the gpu temps are a few c higher.

I never ran Kombusters or valley for 2hours plus like I game though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Cables Should be in On MONDAY!!!

Compliments of @abirli at Ultimatepersonalcomputers.com

The Cautious One


----------



## Dzuks

Loop filled and leak tested yesterday without any issues. I'm satisfied and happy. Won't be going back to soft tubing anytime soon.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Loop filed and leak tested yesterday without any issues*. I'm satisfied and happy. Won't be going back to soft tubing anytime soon.


That was quick!









TCO


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That was quick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I know right. I gave it about 12 hours. I couldn't wait any longer. Never had this much ease filling up a loop. Boy am I glad I don't have a bay res in there anymore. Lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I know right. I gave it about 12 hours. I couldn't wait any longer. Never had this much ease filling up a loop. Boy am I glad I don't have a bay res in there anymore. Lol


I usually have to strip down and put on my swim trunks









TCO


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I usually have to strip down and put on my swim trunks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


dont forget the swimmies


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> dont forget the swimmies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












TCO


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I usually have to strip down and put on my swim trunks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I *REALLY* didn't need that visual TCO... But thanks for sharing.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That was quick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


That's what she said


----------



## tatmMRKIV

You cant do thats what she said jokes, they violate ToS


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> You cant do thats what she said jokes, they violate ToS


O.O whaaaat?


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The new is really nice, but I do like to see things off the norm. The L window and the design on the metal panel really give it a nice touch. Though, having a star wars theme is very uncommon from what I see is common these days tbh. So, you could say the new is off the beaten path as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Did you have boba laser'ed or vinyl sticker?


I liked the L window, but the Mythosaur cut out didn't cover the cage well enough. That is actually Jango Fett and it is a piece of acrylic I had a friend paint, it is removable and is mounted to the cage not the panel. Other things on the way: I have a prisoner in Carbonite being 3D printed that will sit over the top GPU, and I am having the PSU cover up top either laser etched or cut. I don't want to over do it inside, maybe some accents on the fans. I also thought about cutting the Mythosaur off of the old case and using it to cover the cage, but I am going to wait until the rest it done before I pull the trigger. THanks again for the input.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> You cant do thats what she said jokes, they violate ToS


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> O.O whaaaat?


That's what he said....


----------



## Rahldrac

Hey.


Spoiler: Current setup!







As you can see I have quite the "empty space" between my front rad and the GPU, and I wondered about placing a XSPC LED temp sensor on the bar going from the front to the back to fill it up a little.

I wondered if anybody had any experience with this sensor? And if there is anything like it for in line flow of the loop?

I thought about puting push/pull on the front rad, but due to the radiator in the top and res in bottom I can only fit one fan on it.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> This is also why I have gone to a full custom loop and put everything that creates any heat in my system under water so that my pc doesn't dump any heat out the back and heat up my place at all.


Water cooling will heat up your place more than air cooling. Water cooling doesn't destroy the heat, this would violate the 1st law of thermodynamics. The heat can either be in the PC in your components or in your room. Cooling your PC better means your heating your room more. I guess some of the heat can just stay in the water too, but really all water cooling is doing is transferring the heat from your components to outside your case in a more efficient manner than air cooling, with water being an intermediary step in that process.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> You cant do thats what she said jokes, they violate ToS


Seriously?! LMAO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Hey.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Current setup!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see I have quite the "empty space" between my front rad and the GPU, and I wondered about placing a XSPC LED temp sensor on the bar going from the front to the back to fill it up a little.
> 
> I wondered if anybody had any experience with this sensor? And if there is anything like it for in line flow of the loop?
> 
> I thought about puting push/pull on the front rad, but due to the radiator in the top and res in bottom I can only fit one fan on it.


Have it.. works fine.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Water cooling will heat up your place more than air cooling. Water cooling doesn't destroy the heat, this would violate the 1st law of thermodynamics. The heat can either be in the PC in your components or in your room. Cooling your PC better means your heating your room more. I guess some of the heat can just stay in the water too, but really all water cooling is doing is transferring the heat from your components to outside your case in a more efficient manner than air cooling, with water being an intermediary step in that process.


We've conducted our own testing here on this and we found that since you're dissipating the same amount of heat from your components, then the room heats up by the same amount no matter what type of cooling you're using. The thermal heat load being dissipated is based on the wattage generated by the component. Since the wattage is the same the heat generated and dissipated is the same. The room might heat up quicker with a water cooled system because it's more efficient, but eventually both methods of cooling will result in the same room temperature should all things remain equal.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We've conducted our own testing here on this and we found that since you're dissipating the same amount of heat from your components, then the room heats up by the same amount no matter what type of cooling you're using. The thermal heat load being dissipated is based on the wattage generated by the component. Since the wattage is the same the heat generated and dissipated is the same. The room might heat up quicker with a water cooled system because it's more efficient, but eventually both methods of cooling will result in the same room temperature should all things remain equal.


not that I disagree with any of that but.

Resistance goes up as temperature goes up. So if the air cooled rig is letting compents reach 20-30c higher temps (just an exaggerated example) than the loop on the same system it could actually use a little more wattage.

I notice my psu is dead silent now but on air i could hear the fan. So heat was getting trapped near it. Psu get less efficient outside a certain range and waste more wattage at the outlet.

Anyway you get my point. And im sure its not a significant amount more wattage and I doubt seriously it would acount for different room temps.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> not that I disagree with any of that but.
> 
> Resistance goes up as temperature goes up. So if the air cooled rig is letting compents reach 20-30c higher temps (just an exaggerated example) than the loop on the same system it could actually use a little more wattage.
> 
> I notice my psu is dead silent now but on air i could hear the fan. So heat was getting trapped near it. Psu get less efficient outside a certain range and waste more wattage at the outlet.
> 
> Anyway you get my point. And im sure its not a significant amount. Not enough to change a room temp.


I believe that this was tested on a system that maintained a certain wattage. So yes, I suppose it's possible that when a less efficient cooling system is used it could potentially lead to higher wattages. I also wouldn't think that it would be significant enough to change the temperature in a room.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We've conducted our own testing here on this and we found that since you're dissipating the same amount of heat from your components, then the room heats up by the same amount no matter what type of cooling you're using. The thermal heat load being dissipated is based on the wattage generated by the component. Since the wattage is the same the heat generated and dissipated is the same. The room might heat up quicker with a water cooled system because it's more efficient, but eventually both methods of cooling will result in the same room temperature should all things remain equal.


I was actually just thinking of this. When you use an AIO the core temps may be higher than a custom loop, but generally unless you have like a super high overclock you don't have run away temps. Meaning the core temp will rise to certain point and then reach equilibrium and the temps won't rise any further. Say with an AIO stress testing it is 80C then levels off, and with a custom loop it hits 70C then levels off. That would mean both coolers are dissipating the same amount of heat right? One can just do it at a lower temperature, while the other has to heat up a bit more before before it can efficiently dissipate the same heat load.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Have it.. works fine.


Great stuff, you do not happen to know of a similar flow meter? Looked at the Koolance FM18D But it would be nice if one could separate the display from where you have the tube. A similar solution to the temperature sensor (cable to led screen) from XSPC.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The new is really nice, but I do like to see things off the norm. The L window and the design on the metal panel really give it a nice touch. Though, having a star wars theme is very uncommon from what I see is common these days tbh. So, you could say the new is off the beaten path as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Did you have boba laser'ed or vinyl sticker?
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the L window, but the Mythosaur cut out didn't cover the cage well enough. That is actually Jango Fett and it is a piece of acrylic I had a friend paint, it is removable and is mounted to the cage not the panel. Other things on the way: I have a prisoner in Carbonite being 3D printed that will sit over the top GPU, and I am having the PSU cover up top either laser etched or cut. I don't want to over do it inside, maybe some accents on the fans. I also thought about cutting the Mythosaur off of the old case and using it to cover the cage, but I am going to wait until the rest it done before I pull the trigger. THanks again for the input.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> You cant do thats what she said jokes, they violate ToS
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> O.O whaaaat?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's what he said....
Click to expand...

That's what Jenner said... dude... ette was a hero of mine when I was a kid. Now he's a national joke. Go figure. Now I won't be doing a decathalon build.









I digress, that Jango Fett design looks sharp and as much as I liked the Dave Dorman door, the new one is better.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I have not done any type of physical water temp testing but I do notice my gpu and cpu temps do not get better as turn the gentle typhoons up from 1000rpm. So 1000rpm is getting me the same temps as 1850rpm or at most 1-2c.
> 
> I thought it was because my rad to wattage ratio was decent with a little more than 240mm per block. Gaming temps are 45c gpu (gtx 970) and 60c cpu (4790k) with 22c ambient. I never ran furmark but gpu only benchmarks like valley or heaven do not even get to 40c.
> 
> So the bolded portion above means my water temps are near 45c? That would be 23c delta over ambient.
> 
> Is that correct? 23c is much worse than I thought it was if


No, read it again. Water temp does not equal GPU temp. Don't know how you got that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> From what he's stating there in the bold, if your gpu's are at 45c, then your water temp is 35c, which would be 13c over your 22c ambient. That would be pretty warm and I think you would feel warm air coming out of your rads. *Well gaming load he says will be higher than that tho, so I guess 15-20c over ambient?* That's very warm if so lol.
> 
> Your gaming temps are higher than your benching temps? My gaming temps are always a 2c to up to 10c lower than benching with something like Heaven looping for a while. GTA V pushes my system pretty hard especially the cpu, but even that game my temps are 3c lower than Heaven is IF I'm playing on my Asus Swift at 2560x1440 @144hz so the TX is pretty much at 99% all the time. If I put GTA V on to my 65" tv at 1080p, then my temps are way lower, around 29-32c since my TX isn't running at 99%, more like 40-70% with maxed game settings. I haven't had any game push my temps on my gpu's higher than Heaven does. Some have come close, 2c lower, but never went higher as in 5c. Interesting one there.
> 
> And DAME, you guys are making me want a CaseLabs pc case pretty bad. They are pretty costly tho. The thing that kills me is having to wait for it. If there was some sitting on the shelf at Microcenter, I would get one in a heartbeat lol. I can't stand waiting. I even go nuts sometimes waiting for a next day air shipment


The 970 in the example above is a very different example to the large chip Nvidia GPU's so the 10C test results may not apply directly.

And, no I didn't say gaming load would be higher. I said gaming load gpu temps would be *closer to water temp*. That would mean lower load and lower temps.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, read it again. Water temp does not equal GPU temp. Don't know how you got that.


You said
Quote:


> Look at testing of similar GPU water blocks and you will see that under an overclocked Furmark max heat load the GPU will be around 10C over the water temp. *Gaming load the water temp will be closer to GPU temp.*


Somwhere between 10c over and closer to actual water temp?

So anyway. If my gpu is hitting 45c gaming in 22c ambient. What formula tells me my water temp roughly?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> You said
> 
> Somwhere between 10c over and closer to actual water temp?
> 
> So anyway. If my gpu is hitting 45c gaming in 22c ambient. What formula tells me my water temp roughly?


Yep, so where did you get equal to water temp from?

There is no formula, just experience and testing results.
I haven't seen any testing of 970, 670 type gpu blocks

Edit: OK, I see how you read it now. Closer to GPU temp does not mean close to GPU temp. Just closer than 10C above. Like 9 or 8 C above.
Those rough numbers are from testing of large chip Nvidia GPU's. Other GPU's and other blocks can get very different results.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yep, so where did you get equal to water temp from?
> 
> There is no formula, just experience and testing results.
> I haven't seen any testing of 970, 670 type gpu blocks


i posted it in bold. You said furmark load meant gpu temp - 10c = water temp.

Then you said the gaming gpu temp will be closer to the actual water temp. So that means its between - 10c and the actual gpu temps.

You never said exact i was just playing with the maximum amount of "somewhere between - 10c and the actual gpu temp".

From your tone i obviously miss undertood something.

Im not trying to twist what you said or anything. I wanted to know if you knew a way to figure it out. Or at least a rough estimate of the water temp.

I have two systems here with very similar radspace and the only difference is gpu wattage being used but the reaction to fan speeds is very different. I know water temp is higher on my sons rig.


----------



## Jakusonfire

At Idle your GPU temps will be very close to water temp. So if you look at GPU temp, then run furmark and see how much the temp jumps in the first 10 seconds or so, That is your GPU to water delta ... roughly.

If you then watch how much the GPU temp increases over the next 15 or 20 mins, that increase will be something like your air / water delta, but less than.

Idle


Load

Here the flow rate has not increased yet so GPU temp is a couple degrees higher than it should be.

Load plus 10 mins


Notice how Ambient does not change, because it isn't being measured behind the exhaust of a radiator.


----------



## VSG

How about a world exclusive? Thanks to Hardware Labs, there's more love coming in for those wanting 180mm size rads:





















Also in dual and triple 180mm sizes:

























All have screw shields but these are completely unnecessary given that the screw holes are offset from the tube channels anyway:





The core itself is based off the 120 and 140mm Nemesis GTS rads with the thin splitter type fins:



Availability in late Q2 I believe, with the retail packaging and pricing to be determined. No idea if this is the final finish everywhere or if some markets will get the dark matter powdercoat.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Hey.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Current setup!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see I have quite the "empty space" between my front rad and the GPU, and I wondered about placing a XSPC LED temp sensor on the bar going from the front to the back to fill it up a little.
> 
> I wondered if anybody had any experience with this sensor? And if there is anything like it for in line flow of the loop?
> 
> I thought about puting push/pull on the front rad, but due to the radiator in the top and res in bottom I can only fit one fan on it.


I've got a few xspc sensors...the actual sensor comes in 2 flavours..in line and external, like the ones that come with some fan controllers..the inline is better 'cos it screws into a g1/4 fitting..usually put mine on a spare gpu port.. Pics show my stacked x9 , still a work in progress.. Nutting out idea for an acrylic midplate (vertical) under the mobo tray t hide cables..

Ipad pics


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Wow those 180 rads are sick. So big they look like car rads. Definitely wish I could get my hands on those.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How about a world exclusive? Thanks to Hardware Labs, there's more love coming in for those wanting 180mm size rads:
> 
> -snip-
> 
> Availability in late Q2 I believe, with the retail packaging and pricing to be determined. No idea if this is the final finish everywhere or if some markets will get the dark matter powdercoat.


Now THAT is awesome!!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Wow those 180 rads are sick. So big they look like car rads. Definitely wish I could get my hands on those.


There are some 180mm rads out already, here's the dual EK version compared to the dual Black Ice one for example:







They have a single and triple version as well. Here's the triple 180 from EK:







Alphacool has 2 (pics coming up once I finish the unboxing) and Magicool has one type in all 3 sizes as well.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How about a world exclusive? Thanks to Hardware Labs, there's more love coming in for those wanting 180mm size rads:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in dual and triple 180mm sizes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All have screw shields but these are completely unnecessary given that the screw holes are offset from the tube channels anyway:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The core itself is based off the 120 and 140mm Nemesis GTS rads with the thin splitter type fins:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Availability in late Q2 I believe, with the retail packaging and pricing to be determined. No idea if this is the final finish everywhere or if some markets will get the dark matter powdercoat.


Hopefully the 180mm fan market will get some much needed newcomers too now that more and more 180mm rads are coming to market.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Hopefully the 180mm fan market will get some much needed newcomers too now that more and more 180mm rads are coming to market.


I think the bigger issue might be cases that will support 180mm sized rads


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Hopefully the 180mm fan market will get some much needed newcomers too now that more and more 180mm rads are coming to market.


Yeah this is the main thing that's keeping me from getting these tested out right away. Those EK/Gelid fans are.. ok at best. The Silverstone AP182 fans come highly recommended but each is controlled by the knob dial controller it comes with and that would make things a lot more difficult.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I think the bigger issue might be cases that will support 180mm sized rads


2-3 years ago 140mm size rads had a similar problem so hopefully things change. There are a few cases already sans the Silverstone offerings and the CaseLabs TX10 which can accommodate these on the top and bottom but not natively so.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How about a world exclusive? Thanks to Hardware Labs, there's more love coming in for those wanting 180mm size rads:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in dual and triple 180mm sizes:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All have screw shields but these are completely unnecessary given that the screw holes are offset from the tube channels anyway:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The core itself is based off the 120 and 140mm Nemesis GTS rads with the thin splitter type fins:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Availability in late Q2 I believe, with the retail packaging and pricing to be determined. No idea if this is the final finish everywhere or if some markets will get the dark matter powdercoat.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There are some 180mm rads out already, here's the dual EK version compared to the dual Black Ice one for example:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have a single and triple version as well. Here's the triple 180 from EK:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool has 2 (pics coming up once I finish the unboxing) and Magicool has one type in all 3 sizes as well.


Very nice reviews.. good work man.. very good quality pictures.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> At Idle your GPU temps will be very close to water temp. So if you look at GPU temp, then run furmark and see how much the temp jumps in the first 10 seconds or so, That is your GPU to water delta ... roughly.
> 
> If you then watch how much the GPU temp increases over the next 15 or 20 mins, that increase will be something like your air / water delta, but less than.
> 
> Idle
> 
> Load
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the flow rate has not increased yet so GPU temp is a couple degrees higher than it should be.
> 
> Load plus 10 mins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how Ambient does not change, because it isn't being measured behind the exhaust of a radiator.


Thanks for the clarification. I just wanted to know for informational purposes.

That puts my load water temp in my main at roughly 35c.

35c - 22c ambient = 13c delta.

Those numbers seem possible?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Just passed 4.3Ghz using 1.165V









Temps never above 59C

TCO


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could be better and could be worse, you should see my pile of failed and unsatisfactory bends, I think I've kept Monsoon afloat for the next tywo years


Took this pic the other day,forgot to post it. I went through a lil bit myself.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Took this pic the other day,forgot to post it. I went through a lil bit myself.


suddenly i feel the 12 X 36" tubes i got won't be enough


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just passed 4.3Ghz using 1.165V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps never above 59C
> 
> TCO


Put those UPC cables I'm already.... My eyes are bleeding looking at this photo


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Hopefully the 180mm fan market will get some much needed newcomers too now that more and more 180mm rads are coming to market.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah this is the main thing that's keeping me from getting these tested out right away. Those EK/Gelid fans are.. ok at best. The Silverstone AP182 fans come highly recommended but each is controlled by the knob dial controller it comes with and that would make things a lot more difficult.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I think the bigger issue might be cases that will support 180mm sized rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 2-3 years ago 140mm size rads had a similar problem so hopefully things change. There are a few cases already sans the Silverstone offerings and the CaseLabs TX10 which can accommodate these on the top and bottom but not natively so.
Click to expand...

Can you not splice out the knob and just change it to a 3pin connector?

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Can you not splice out the knob and just change it to a 3pin connector?
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Pretty sure you don't even have to do that, I think you can just pull out the controller and it comes with a little bridge connector. No idea whether its actually properly voltage controllable tho.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification. I just wanted to know for informational purposes.
> 
> That puts my load water temp in my main at roughly 35c.
> 
> 35c - 22c ambient = 13c delta.
> 
> Those numbers seem possible?


Yeah, seems quite normal. If you have easy access to your reservoir you might also open the top while the pump is running and put a thermometer inside to known for sure your water temp.

@Ramzinho and @Jeffinslaw: My wife is flying tomorrow to US and should post your packages via USPS from CA next Monday. I figure that would be cheaper and faster to ship to you guys.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Can you not splice out the knob and just change it to a 3pin connector?
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


I don't have the fans myself. I have one of the 120mm Silverstone fans that use the same knob controller so I will see if it is possible.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There are some 180mm rads out already, here's the dual EK version compared to the dual Black Ice one for example:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have a single and triple version as well. Here's the triple 180 from EK:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool has 2 (pics coming up once I finish the unboxing) and Magicool has one type in all 3 sizes as well.


My wallet is now hiding in the corner crying


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Took this pic the other day,forgot to post it. I went through a lil bit myself.










. I will find a use for some of this, especially when my wallet gets out of therapy and I get a Ram block and the NB block, plus it's not even 48 hours old and I'm already planning the next loop









Sorry for the Double Post


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How about a world exclusive? Thanks to Hardware Labs, there's more love coming in for those wanting 180mm size rads:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in dual and triple 180mm sizes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All have screw shields but these are completely unnecessary given that the screw holes are offset from the tube channels anyway:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The core itself is based off the 120 and 140mm Nemesis GTS rads with the thin splitter type fins:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Availability in late Q2 I believe, with the retail packaging and pricing to be determined. No idea if this is the final finish everywhere or if some markets will get the dark matter powdercoat.


And still with only 2 ports . . . . . How thick as a brick and determined to be obsolete by the day of release are they . . . .









The best made rads going and you can't even plumb then in cleanly most of the time . . .

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Aside from the 35 mm thick Magicool ones, what other slim rads offer multiple ports though?

SR1/SR2 definitely warranted multiple ports given the conventional U-flow so I am glad it's finally happening. I am trying to convince them to get the ports in line with the frame for people using rad mounts and to consider a 7th port at the other end also. Let's see!


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Aside from the 35 mm thick Magicool ones, what other slim rads offer multiple ports though?
> 
> SR1/SR2 definitely warranted multiple ports given the conventional U-flow so I am glad it's finally happening. I am trying to convince them to get the pits in line with the frame for people using rad mounts and to consider a 7th port at the other end also. Let's see!


That's the radiator I have Magicool as a main 180x2 with AP181 fans for nearly 3 years, never looked back absolutely happy with it.
I been waiting to see if 200mm radiators come mainstream one day.

As you pointed out just 2 problems about 10 180mm fans available and really only the Silverstone are even worth considering.
I been looking out for a case over a year now to support or even just dimensionally fit a dual 180mm rad with push/pull fans that has some style that I actually like.

these 180mm radiators are probably still 5 years ahead of there time.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Spoiler: Overclocking, Windows Freeze



This is whats Happening As of Now

Was having Screen trailing when dragging most screens in front of each other.

It had obviously caused a great problem as I cannot get into windows anymore. After running a Realbench 2.4 (Testing overclock of 4.4Ghz with 1.195V) 9 min into the test I froze. So I said... Ok well lets try this again, Boom, Couldn't get into windows. Freezes after the Bios. Every other Reboot It will ask do I want to start windows normally or Recommend Repair, I press either (I think for the Recommended option I would need the WIn 7 Disk in) and it won't even show the windows spinning thing, just freezes. Displays a AE code on the Motherboard, Tried to reseat ram this morning thinking it was that but still does the same thing.

Any ideas? Could it be the SSD? Cruxial MX100 240Gb brand new?



The Cautious One


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Overclocking, Windows Freeze
> 
> 
> 
> This is whats Happening As of Now
> 
> Was having Screen trailing when dragging most screens in front of each other.
> 
> It had obviously caused a great problem as I cannot get into windows anymore. After running a Realbench 2.4 (Testing overclock of 4.4Ghz with 1.195V) 9 min into the test I froze. So I said... Ok well lets try this again, Boom, Couldn't get into windows. Freezes after the Bios. Every other Reboot It will ask do I want to start windows normally or Recommend Repair, I press either (I think for the Recommended option I would need the WIn 7 Disk in) and it won't even show the windows spinning thing, just freezes. Displays a AE code on the Motherboard, Tried to reseat ram this morning thinking it was that but still does the same thing.
> 
> Any ideas? Could it be the SSD? Cruxial MX100 240Gb brand new?
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


Reset CMOS,, or maybe you need a little bit more voltage.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Reset CMOS,, or maybe you need a little bit more voltage.


But I reset to default.. I can't get into windows? Still reset CMOS (Which stands for? )

TCO

And how do I get the DIvision to Show first in here


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> But I reset to default.. I can't get into windows? Still reset CMOS (Which stands for? )
> 
> TCO


Yes Reset CMOS

Cmos
Quote:


> Complementary metal-oxide semiconductor, or CMOS, typically refers to a battery-powered memory chip in your computer that stores startup information


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Yes Reset CMOS
> 
> Cmos


Ah!!! Well I hope that works. The Button is on the Motherboard, Yes?

Found it



Why would this work and not being like an SSD failure or something like that?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ah!!! Well I hope that works. The Button is on the Motherboard, Yes?
> 
> Found it
> 
> 
> 
> Why would this work and not being like an SSD failure or something like that?


Cause this is PC world where nothing makes sense









And yes CLR CMOS...

Good Luck buddy


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Cause this is PC world where nothing makes sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes CLR CMOS...
> 
> Good Luck buddy










Of course







and I was trying to use logic...







Thanks ramz. Ill try that first. + 1 for being up right now









TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I was trying to use logic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks ramz. Ill try that first. + 1 for being up right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Man it's 3:30pm here.. the 7 hours difference between you and me made some series benefits now


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Man it's 3:30pm here.. the 7 hours difference between you and me made some series benefits now


Oh Goodness. 1530 over there? Didn't realize that







Well ill take it! So you are saying that the CMOS has possibly stored invalid info, and in return not allowing Windows to Proceed?

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh Goodness. 1530 over there? Didn't realize that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well ill take it! So you are saying that the CMOS has possibly stored invalid info, and in return not allowing Windows to Proceed?
> 
> TCO


Yes would you please click the figging button so we continue analyzing this


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Yes would you please click the figging button so we continue analyzing this


OH GEEZ!!! Easy Ramz. I am at work troubleshooting a problem that occured last night. I have to go to moms for BBQ shrimp after work then will stay up and fight the Computer. I get off work in T Minus 10hours.









TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> OH GEEZ!!! Easy Ramz. I am at work troubleshooting a problem that occured last night. I have to go to moms for BBQ shrimp after work then will stay up and fight the Computer. I get off work in T Minus 10hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Ughhhhh







.. gotta love working on saturdays don't you







.

I know that for a fact as i've not taken a vacation in 2 Years. i am on call 24/7 and i can leave the city at any time for a rush job. i'm waiting all my parts to arrive hopefully by the last week of May so i take 1st week of June OFF to finish the builds.

And save me some of them shrimps man


----------



## p5ych00n5

Rejigged mah loop.....




Is no good.......











Is no good.......









Also no good........


----------



## emsj86

So got the new plexi top for the cpu but this is what I found when I took it out. I've used distilled mixed with pastel blue berry and a few drops of dark blue mayhems dye. Any ideas what it could be from my first time with this issuse.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So got the new plexi top for the cpu but this is what I found when I took it out. I've used distilled mixed with pastel blue berry and a few drops of dark blue mayhems dye. Any ideas what it could be from my first time with this issuse.


EEEEESSSSHHHHH,I wouldve said plasticiser, but you'rte running acrylic, maybe dye gunk??????????


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> But I reset to default.. I can't get into windows? Still reset CMOS (Which stands for? )
> 
> TCO


The same thing happened to me. I reset BIOS cause my pc wouldn't boot after an overclock attempt. When i reset BIOS i lost all my RAID settings. Thus making my windows boot flawed. Not realizing this, I repaired windows and then realized that now I had 4 drives instead of two.







Needless to say I had to restore the raid and re install windows again. Two hours later I could start trying to overclock again.

Not sure if you are still having problems, but be careful with raid drives and BIOS resets.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The same thing happened to me. I reset BIOS cause my pc wouldn't boot after an overclock attempt. When i reset BIOS i lost all my RAID settings. Thus making my windows boot flawed. Not realizing this, I repaired windows and then realized that now I had 4 drives instead of two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say I had to restore the raid and re install windows again. Two hours later I could start trying to overclock again.
> 
> Not sure if you are still having problems, but be careful with raid drives and BIOS resets.


If he resets the RAID settings in BIOS, after the BIOS reset, but prior to his first attempt to boot up the PC his RAID will be fine and should boot up normally... Been There Done That.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> If he resets the RAID settings in BIOS, after the BIOS reset, but prior to his first attempt to boot up the PC his RAID will be fine and should boot up normally... Been There Done That.


NO Raid settings. Just trying to get back into windows. Pretty sure I will have to reinstall Win 7.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> NO Raid settings. Just trying to get back into windows. Pretty sure I will have to reinstall Win 7.
> 
> TCO


Are you sure is not a simple matter of changing BIOS priority for your HDs? Sometimes after a hard crash bios will alter the order of the HDs and then you will not be able to boot until you select the correct one.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you sure is not a simple matter of changing BIOS priority for your HDs? Sometimes after a hard crash bios will alter the order of the HDs and then you will not be able to boot until you select the correct one.


he hasn't reset cmos yet.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you sure is not a simple matter of changing BIOS priority for your HDs? Sometimes after a hard crash bios will alter the order of the HDs and then you will not be able to boot until you select the correct one.


I haven't clicked on the Drive in the BIOS as it only shows up 1 to option from. Though I will try everything we (OCN) have spoken about today when I get off work and eat these Shrimps.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Is this on that painted mb? paint in the ports???


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is this on that painted mb? paint in the ports???


It's very possible! Just the fact I have been messing around with it for almost a week, and now this? I might take the ram out first and blow in the slots, CLick off the PSU completely, Clear CMOS, plug my DVD drive in the back, Turn off the 3rd slot 980 (Just using the first slot 980 for Visual,

Boot, Let Post, Go into BIOS, Click on Boot ORder (Just the 240SSD) defaults will be set from Clearing CMOS, don't touch anything else, Rub my head and stomache at the same time, F10 Save and continue and see if I can repair windows, or just re install win 7 pro.

The Cautious One


----------



## erso44

yo TCO

your fans or phanteks ph 140mp?









can´t decide


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> yo TCO
> 
> your fans or phanteks ph 140mp?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can´t decide


I would go Noiseblocker Eloops personally they are so sexy and kinda want me to well... Yea...







They will be an upgrade in the future (Near)



I wouldn't use a 140mm on anything but exhaust ( My opinion)

TCO


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would go Noiseblocker Eloops personally they are so sexy and kinda want me to well... Yea...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They will be an upgrade in the future (Near)
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't use a 140mm on anything but exhaust ( My opinion)
> 
> TCO


why not 140? too loud? I got 140mm rads


----------



## emsj86

Alittle flushing and some tlc (new plexi cpu top). And back in action. .


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> why not 140? too loud? I got 140mm rads


Nooo Not the loudness.. Just more hip with a 120mm anything I suppose. The 80mm fans I've used look like little babies. The 140mm fans look to big.







Just my opinion. Performance wise, you will have to ask the professionals.

TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Alittle flushing and some tlc. And back in action.


Good to see!!! I wanted to tell you that I was sorry to hear about your cracked block. Looks like you made through it just fine though!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nooo Not the loudness.. Just more hip with a 120mm anything I suppose. The 80mm fans I've used look like little babies. The 140mm fans look to big.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just my opinion. Performance wise, you will have to ask the professionals.
> 
> TCO


Yeah, technically bigger fans are often more quiet. I'm using 140mm NB Blacksilent Pros on my rear radiator which also acts as exhaust so you don't really see them.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Sorry double post. Reported!!!


----------



## emsj86

Thanks man. Yea a long nap from my two year old is all it took to get this down lol. Don't have much time to work on it between work, baby on the way and the two year old. But I still love it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Sorry double post. Reported!!!


I mean if he has 140mm Rads... I am thinking I would probably go with 140mm Fans.







Just so I could watch the world Burn.









Ok Just kidding. NO Really I would go with 140mm Fans.

TCO


----------



## jdstock76

I'd be interested in the 180 rads for a future build. Would give me a reason to get a CaseLabs cause they'll most likely be the first to transition.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I'd be interested in the 180 rads for a future build. Would give me a reason to get a CaseLabs cause they'll most likely be the first to transition.


FYI: I'm not sure if any other models support 180s but the TX10 does. There's a side mount bracket available for 180.3.

I considered 180 Rads but decided on 140s due to lack of decent fans for 180s.


----------



## VSG

Yeah native support isn't much, but I imagine that one can modify the top/bottom of cases like the STH10 to fit these in.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> FYI: I'm not sure if any other models support 180s but the TX10 does. There's a side mount bracket available for 180.3.
> 
> I considered 180 Rads but decided on 140s due to lack of decent fans for 180s.


I've got nothing but time before my next build because I haven't decided what I want. So plenty of time for them to be developed and distributed.


----------



## emsj86

Ok because of finding the gunk and my cpu plexi block was cracked (it has been replaced). What is normal for benchmark test on an i7 4790k. (Mine is 4.6 @1.27 volts). Intel burn test max core is 81 degrees. I have two 780s and 360 plus 240 rads. Ambient temp is 74 degrees, fans 1800 rpms during benchmarks. I know a lot more goes Into it just I always see people saying 60s for there load temp. Now gaming I never get past 64, but intel burn test really pushes the temps. Just seeing if this was somewhat normal or in the ball park. Also what benchmark test is recommended?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ok because of finding the gunk and my cpu plexi block was cracked (it has been replaced). What is normal for benchmark test on an i7 4790k. (Mine is 4.6 @1.27 volts). Intel burn test max core is 81 degrees. I have two 780s and 360 plus 240 rads. Ambient temp is 74 degrees, fans 1800 rpms during benchmarks. I know a lot more goes Into it just I always see people saying 60s for there load temp. Now gaming I never get past 64, but intel burn test really pushes the temps. Just seeing if this was somewhat normal or in the ball park. Also what benchmark test is recommended?


I stress test with x264 from the HW oc guide thread

My temps in x264 at 1.265v 4.6ghz is 65c max. For a benchmark I like ciinebenchR15 4.6ghz scores around 930-940.

when you run that bench open the program and then set priorty to realtime. Or you can reboot and run it in safe mode.
rams speed does affect cinebench score a little too.


----------



## emsj86

Yea I ran x264 before and noticed it stressed it less. My temps were 64-68 across the cores


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yea I ran x264 before and noticed it stressed it less. My temps were 64-68 across the cores


It stresses the cpu to 100% load but does so at much more realistic temps. I run this for 10 loops and a short p95 28.5 @ custom 1344-1344 run to find my oc values on HW. The 1344 settings on p95 make it run very cool too.

P95 consistently requires me to add .02v over the min thats x264 stable.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Ramzinho @Gabrielzm We have a successful boot and everything is fine. I was tripping. The message displayed was telling me that windows was trying to recover. The Other option was to ignore and try going to WIn (Even though it said that Windows wasn't able to boot) Cleared CMOS, Took all Ram out and Blew on Connections (Like an old NES cartridge







) Hooked it all back up and was ready to rock. Have tried each 980 individually to make sure that I was getting a signal from both. Both were successful and I am very excited. Watching the Sapranos as of now. Bout to remove the DVD DRIVE (Not needed)

Just good to know that the computer is good to Go!

TCO


----------



## emsj86

@tco congrats man. Great feeling when things work out. I guess that answers the question of why will you do when your down with the beast pc build.. Watch sapranos lol. Wire fan by any chance. That's my favorite of all time


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Well I know it's low class on the water cooling thread but felt like I should post this. Lol repasted my cpu and modded h60 cooler.

















Little too much paste. Used mx4 previously. Trying out the super cheat pk2 thermal paste. This time, less paste. I guess I still think I need more paste even on a lapped cpu and cooler.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just good to know that the computer is good to Go!
> 
> TCO


Glad to hear it TCO.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Glad to hear it TCO.


I second that!







Now how about you take that Cutlass Supreme up here and let me take it for a spin. Been many years since I've driven one of those.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I second that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now how about you take that Cutlass Supreme up here and let me take it for a spin. Been many years since I've driven one of those.










Any Day Mate!! Not Sure if I put "City of Bridges" into google maps that It would take me to the right City








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @tco congrats man. Great feeling when things work out. I guess that answers the question of why will you do when your down with the beast pc build.. Watch sapranos lol. Wire fan by any chance. That's my favorite of all time


HAHA I just watched the first episode. I am letting Itunes grab and sort my 22000 songs







and process artwork ( the real reason I bought a laptop in the first place was just to hold all my music)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Glad to hear it TCO.


Appreciate that. I am stoked to get these cables!

I should get back to overclocking after Itunes grabs itself and hurries up

TCO


----------



## derickwm

Took apart all my old blocks today and polished up the nickel and cleaned the coolant off the plexi  they came out great I say.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Took apart all my old blocks today and polished up the nickel and cleaned the coolant off the plexi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they came out great I say.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All this in preparation for Txs? Showing some love







Looking nice indeed.


----------



## Natskyge

Stupid question but i noticed that watercool and aquacomputers gpu conecter things ( inlet / outlet ) look the same so maybe the aqua computer active back plate would work with a watercool gpu block?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Ramzinho @Gabrielzm We have a successful boot and everything is fine. I was tripping. The message displayed was telling me that windows was trying to recover. The Other option was to ignore and try going to WIn (Even though it said that Windows wasn't able to boot) Cleared CMOS, Took all Ram out and Blew on Connections (Like an old NES cartridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Hooked it all back up and was ready to rock. Have tried each 980 individually to make sure that I was getting a signal from both. Both were successful and I am very excited. Watching the Sapranos as of now. Bout to remove the DVD DRIVE (Not needed)
> 
> Just good to know that the computer is good to Go!
> 
> TCO


so All you needed is a Shrimp dose to get your mind straight and concentrate?

Point taken and noted.

Congrats mate.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Took apart all my old blocks today and polished up the nickel and cleaned the coolant off the plexi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they came out great I say.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As I said earlier in our conversation. I am very pleased that I could help. As for the photos... OUTSTANDING work !!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Malik,spoiler quoted pics please,you know better than that.....


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Took apart all my old blocks today and polished up the nickel and cleaned the coolant off the plexi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they came out great I say.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice pics! looks great!


----------



## Ramzinho

@kitg90 Please spoiler Pics


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Malik,spoiler quoted pics please,you know better than that.....


Sorry B.N.







Spoiler Done


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Malik,spoiler quoted pics please,you know better than that.....
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry B.N.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler Done
Click to expand...


----------



## derickwm

Thanks guys  especially Malik <3


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> especially Malik <3


Love is in the aaaiir...

Seriously though, great shots, dude!


----------



## morencyam

Having some trouble with a build for my brother in law. Getting no power at all after installing and AMD Supremacy MX. Everything tested good on air. Any help would be appreciated.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1556024/no-power-after-ek-supremacy-mx-amd-installation/0_100


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Took apart all my old blocks today and polished up the nickel and cleaned the coolant off the plexi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they came out great I say.






I am willing to sell my body for this.


----------



## rgrwng

should I drain my loop if I am going on a 3 week vacation ? or is it safe to let the loop sit filled?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> should I drain my loop if I am going on a 3 week vacation ? or is it safe to let the loop sit filled?


I regularly go 2 weeks without turning my system on at all since I've been so ridiculously busy at work recently. As long as you have some kind of biocide, I think you'll be fine


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natskyge*
> 
> Stupid question but i noticed that watercool and aquacomputers gpu conecter things ( inlet / outlet ) look the same so maybe the aqua computer active back plate would work with a watercool gpu block?


No, Of course not.




Completely different spacing and size of inlets and attachments. "Active" backplates are nothing more than a gimmick anyway. With the right screws you could use the passive version but there is no guarantee it will work the same on every GPU block.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> so All you needed is a Shrimp dose to get your mind straight and concentrate?
> 
> Point taken and noted.
> 
> Congrats mate.










This guy! Yea I am getting a File error upon boot (I ran ccleaner and I think I tossed a file)



TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This guy! Yea I am getting a File error upon boot (I ran ccleaner and I think I tossed a file)
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You didn't make a restore point first? For shame.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> so All you needed is a Shrimp dose to get your mind straight and concentrate?
> 
> Point taken and noted.
> 
> Congrats mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This guy! Yea I am getting a File error upon boot (I ran ccleaner and I think I tossed a file)
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

From the start menu search for "Task Scheduler" and open it
Under the Active Tasks section of Task Scheduler (Local), look for tasks that begin with "i-setup" and are triggered at log on of any user and delete them


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This guy! Yea I am getting a File error upon boot (I ran ccleaner and I think I tossed a file)
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Lots of info out there about this, should be easily fixed, here is one:

http://charlessocci.com/2013/05/01/on-windows-7-startup-a-popup-message-appears-cusersappdatalocaltemp-xxxxxx-log-iniis-lost/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> You didn't make a restore point first? For shame.


Who needs a restore point when I thought I was going to do a fresh instal! HA!! Take that Wulf!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> From the start menu search for "Task Scheduler" and open it
> Under the Active Tasks section of Task Scheduler (Local), look for tasks that begin with "i-setup" and are triggered at log on of any user and delete them


+1 !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Lots of info out there about this, should be easily fixed, here is one:
> 
> http://charlessocci.com/2013/05/01/on-windows-7-startup-a-popup-message-appears-cusersappdatalocaltemp-xxxxxx-log-iniis-lost/


+ 1

TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Who needs a restore point when I thought I was going to do a fresh instal! HA!! Take that Wulf!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 !
> + 1
> 
> TCO


LOL, just had to poke you a little, it has been a day or two.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Natskyge*
> 
> Stupid question but i noticed that watercool and aquacomputers gpu conecter things ( inlet / outlet ) look the same so maybe the aqua computer active back plate would work with a watercool gpu block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, Of course not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completely different spacing and size of inlets and attachments. "Active" backplates are nothing more than a gimmick anyway. With the right screws you could use the passive version but there is no guarantee it will work the same on every GPU block.
Click to expand...

But they look sooo purty......


----------



## electro2u

Bugs me the passive AC backplate has the channel for the heat pipe still there. The heat pipe is almost superfluous but the passive AC backplate for the 290x and 295x2 is really a step ahead of any competitor.


----------



## Sem

Heres my system





Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
5930k @ 4.5
SLI 980s

i am not happy with the temps and im not sure what i should do to improve

setup is as follows Alpha cool XT45 360 & 240s with 3x GT1450 on 360 in PULL @ 1200 rpm and 4x SP120 Quiet editions at 1100 RPM on the 240 in push pull

After an hour of GTA 5 with an ambient of 23-25c i get 55c/56c on the top and bottom gpus with the fans at 1100 rpm (going higher makes no diff)

I am thinking my 2 options are getting a thicker 60mm rad for both 360s/240s i will need to ditch push pull on the 240 and the 360 will remain in pull only

other option is the change the top rad to a 35mm thick 360 then go push pull with my other GT1450s leaving the 240 as it is

which sounds the best to you guys or should i just not worry about the temps as they are to be expected

i really would like to seem them under 50c load seems people with 980s stay around 45-50c under load

Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Heres my system
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
> 5930k @ 4.5
> SLI 980s
> 
> 
> 
> i am not happy with the temps and im not sure what i should do to improve
> 
> setup is as follows Alpha cool XT45 360 & 240s with 3x GT1450 on 360 in PULL @ 1200 rpm and 4x SP120 Quiet editions at 1100 RPM on the 240 in push pull
> 
> After an hour of GTA 5 with an ambient of 23-25c i get 55c/56c on the top and bottom gpus with the fans at 1100 rpm (going higher makes no diff)
> 
> I am thinking my 2 options are getting a thicker 60mm rad for both 360s/240s i will need to ditch push pull on the 240 and the 360 will remain in pull only
> 
> other option is the change the top rad to a 35mm thick 360 then go push pull with my other GT1450s leaving the 240 as it is
> 
> which sounds the best to you guys or should i just not worry about the temps as they are to be expected
> 
> i really would like to seem them under 50c load seems people with 980s stay around 45-50c under load
> 
> Thanks


Both the cards and the 5930k are in the Same loop! The cards do seem a little hot! How many volts are you running to the CPU?

TCO


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Both the cards and the 5930k are in the Same loop! The cards do seem a little hot! How many volts are you running to the CPU?
> 
> TCO


CPU @ 1.29v right now the GPUS are both overclocked to 1544 @ 1.237v

funnly disabling SLI only improves the top GPU temps by 3-4c


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> CPU @ 1.29v right now the GPUS are both overclocked to 1544 @ 1.237v
> 
> funnly disabling SLI only improves the top GPU temps by 3-4c


Interesting result! I am at 4.4Ghz right now, stable with 1.245V and Max temp on the CPU was 62C after 15min stress. The Single 980 I used in the test was 42c Max.

TCO


----------



## LandonAaron

Why do GPU's respond so much better to water cooling than CPU's? My R9 290x overclocked runs at 1.27V, my 4790k overclocked runs at 1.34V. Both idle around 30-35 degrees. They are both water cooled with the same loop, yet with GPU loaded 100% it will hit maybe 50 degrees, while the CPU will hit 70 degrees. On air the GPU would easily go up to the 80's, and if the CPU was at 1.27V it would probably do about 80 or 90 on air. So it seems the run a similar voltages and have similar temps on air but on water the GPU runs much cooler than the CPU, why is that?


----------



## wermad

Time to delid that haswell Dc. Its the crap intel uses inside the ihs that sucks. Replace it and you'll see a good drop at load.

edit:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Why do GPU's respond so much better to water cooling than CPU's? My R9 290x overclocked runs at 1.27V, my 4790k overclocked runs at 1.34V. Both idle around 30-35 degrees. They are both water cooled with the same loop, yet with GPU loaded 100% it will hit maybe 50 degrees, while the CPU will hit 70 degrees. On air the GPU would easily go up to the 80's, and if the CPU was at 1.27V it would probably do about 80 or 90 on air. So it seems the run a similar voltages and have similar temps on air but on water the GPU runs much cooler than the CPU, why is that?


one simple thing is the area/water contact of each block which is a lot larger in the GPU. Even if the gpu core is smaller the block itself is much larger. Another thing is that gpu have direct contact with block while cpu does not. Another thing to keep in mind is that core voltage between different cpus or gpus does not mean much since different architectures dissipate more or less heat. The heat generated in W is the coin for comparison not the core voltage. Here usually the gpu would be at disadvantage since most modern top GPU produce more heat that cpus


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quick question, what's the best method for removing the stickers off Ram sticks, heat gun then goo off? or will the heat gun bugger the stick?


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quick question, what's the best method for removing the stickers off Ram sticks, heat gun then goo off? or will the heat gun bugger the stick?


I've not done it myself but I've seen many references to using a heat gun to remove stock RAM coolers so I don't see why you couldn't use it to loosen the glue on a sticker.

Good Luck


----------



## wermad

I used a heat gun to gently remove the Venegeance heatsinks. Just enough to softened the sticky thermal pads.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quick question, what's the best method for removing the stickers off Ram sticks, heat gun then goo off? or will the heat gun bugger the stick?


Take care with the gun... Don't heat up too much and don't stay too close to the sticker...Was just today taking out 10 GTs stickers and done some mistakes for just 1 second of distraction...Pictures to follow:






here you can see the 2 I screw up along with one good.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Take care with the gun... Don't heat up too much and don't stay too close to the sticker...Was just today taking out 10 GTs stickers and done some mistakes for just 1 second of distraction...Pictures to follow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here you can see the 2 I screw up along with one good.


Carbon fibre sticker it instead ha


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Carbon fibre sticker it instead ha


That reminds me... you can get a circle punch from a craft store the will punch out properly sized disks from sheets of sticker material. would be a lot easier to cover the existing stickers than removing them.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Carbon fibre sticker it instead ha


Not a bad idea in fact, specially considering the build color scheme (grey matter). Was not going to keep the stickers anyway but I like to have them in good shape and do it properly









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> That reminds me... you can get a circle punch from a craft store the will punch out properly sized disks from sheets of sticker material. would be a lot easier to cover the existing stickers than removing them.


I already have but thks for chiming in. An ek punch (not ekwb mind you







)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090JVGIM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I used to do this:


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> That reminds me... you can get a circle punch from a craft store the will punch out properly sized disks from sheets of sticker material. would be a lot easier to cover the existing stickers than removing them.


Yea similar to JayzTwoCents, what he did for skunkworks. Good idea.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think you like it because it's mfrd by EK.










~Ceadder


----------



## marshymellows

So this might not be the right place to ask this but you can't stop me








I got a gtx 770 (2gb







) and I'm wondering if I should upgrade to the 390x (ofc I will water cool it too)


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> So this might not be the right place to ask this but you can't stop me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a gtx 770 (2gb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I'm wondering if I should upgrade to the 390x (ofc I will water cool it too)


yes. performance hasn't been released for the 390x but so far, it looks like its going to own the 770.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummmmmm duh. 770gtx with DDR5 or r9 390 with HBM...









I think even you know the answer to this if you have the scratch to spend @ the date of launch.









~Ceadder


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> yes. performance hasn't been released for the 390x but so far, it looks like its going to own the 770.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ummmmmm duh. 770gtx with DDR5 or r9 390 with HBM...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think even you know the answer to this if you have the scratch to spend @ the date of launch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes I knew the answer I just need some boost in my confidence of buying it









But then on to my next question. Do you a total of 360mm rad (120 + 240) will be handle the 390x And a 4670k


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Yes I knew the answer I just need some boost in my confidence of buying it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then on to my next question. Do you a total of 360mm rad (120 + 240) will be handle the 390x And a 4670k


it will although do not expect a delta air ambient - water of 5 C. As a rule of thumb one fan/rad space per block and add one in the end.

What you guys think, a good stash?




and the little buggers that like to fly around...


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it will although do not expect a delta air ambient - water of 5 C. As a rule of thumb one fan/rad space per block and add one in the end.
> 
> What you guys think, a good stash?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the little buggers that like to fly around...


I thought that GTs have more than 4 phases on their motor?


----------



## kitg90

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it will although do not expect a delta air ambient - water of 5 C. As a rule of thumb one fan/rad space per block and add one in the end.
> 
> What you guys think, a good stash?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the little buggers that like to fly around...






those fans look lush!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I thought that GTs have more than 4 phases on their motor?


Nope, all gts are like that. Example:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1422661/build-log-case-mod-no-salary-cap-v2-0-sth10-4xtitans-r0ssd-sleeving-acrylic-2011-socket/120


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope not since I know where they're at. They will be gone by manana.









~Ceadder


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I thought that GTs have more than 4 phases on their motor?


Noctua is all braggy about their 3-phase 6 slot fan motors.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Why do GPU's respond so much better to water cooling than CPU's? My R9 290x overclocked runs at 1.27V, my 4790k overclocked runs at 1.34V. Both idle around 30-35 degrees. They are both water cooled with the same loop, yet with GPU loaded 100% it will hit maybe 50 degrees, while the CPU will hit 70 degrees. On air the GPU would easily go up to the 80's, and if the CPU was at 1.27V it would probably do about 80 or 90 on air. So it seems the run a similar voltages and have similar temps on air but on water the GPU runs much cooler than the CPU, why is that?


Heat density.

Cpu's have small but very power hungry cores in a small area,GPU's have lower power cores that are spread out. This makes it much easier for your chosen thermal solution to work more efficiently.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Ram stickers off, no dramas, pics to come after I hook up the PC


----------



## Rahldrac

How is it with letting the system stay with fluids in it?
I am leaving my computer for 3 months now, and wonder if I should drain it before i leave?
I have aquatunings DP clear fluid with mayhem's dye.


----------



## DarthBaggins

For three months, I'd recommend draining the loop


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> For three months, I'd recommend draining the loop


Agreed. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## Rahldrac

Will do, thanks!
Might as well use the opportunity to change to Mayhem's pastel then. And maybe open up my GPU blocks for some cleaning.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> How is it with letting the system stay with fluids in it?
> I am leaving my computer for 3 months now, and wonder if I should drain it before i leave?
> I have aquatunings DP clear fluid with mayhem's dye.


It will be fine,only Pastels/Aurora need draining due to particulate nature of the products,everything else is as safe as it gets.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Will do, thanks!
> Might as well use the opportunity to change to Mayhem's pastel then. And maybe open up my GPU blocks for some cleaning.


For getting blocks dry after cleaning I use coffee filters to suck up the water out of the microchannels.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Has everybody seen these? Trying to get them stocked in AU.
They seem to be made of ABS plastic so hopefully they are significantly cheaper than the Monsoon variety and I can get more than one of each for complex bends




http://www.barrow.com.cn/case/other/2015/0408/300.html
http://www.barrow.com.cn/case/other/2015/0408/301.html
http://www.barrow.com.cn/case/other/2015/0408/302.html

Barrow is coming out with more and more good looking stuff. Some of it is new ideas and they always seem to be very competitively priced.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Dagnammit, JUST noticed one of my runs is 1 mm short, good news is I do have a replacement piece which would be perfect.............aside from the fact there are microscratches on the outer surface of the tube (I think maybe when I was cutting tubing the saw skipped/jagged), does anyone know of a method to get rid of scratches from acrylic (polishing etc)


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Has everybody seen these? Trying to get them stocked in AU.
> They seem to be made of ABS plastic so hopefully they are significantly cheaper than the Monsoon variety and I can get more than one of each for complex bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.barrow.com.cn/case/other/2015/0408/300.html
> http://www.barrow.com.cn/case/other/2015/0408/301.html
> http://www.barrow.com.cn/case/other/2015/0408/302.html
> 
> 
> 
> Barrow is coming out with more and more good looking stuff. Some of it is new ideas and they always seem to be very competitively priced.


I have not seen anything from them as a new idea. They tend to just steal ideas/designs and make them cheaper in every aspect, typically starting with much lower quality. I'm all about making things more affordable but they flat out stole Monsoon's product.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I have not seen anything from them as a new idea. They tend to just steal ideas/designs and make them cheaper in every aspect, typically starting with much lower quality. I'm all about making things more affordable but they flat out stole Monsoon's product.


Yeah but the 2 or 3 times I have tried to buy monsoons mandrel set they were sold out so if there is another supplier then all the better. I have no loyalty to Monsoon and they have no loyalty to me. Just my take on things.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Yeah but the 2 or 3 times I have tried to buy monsoons mandrel set they were sold out so if there is another supplier then all the better. I have no loyalty to Monsoon and they have no loyalty to me. Just my take on things.


Monsoon's are more expensive, no doubt, and I have also have no loyalty to Monsoon. I do, however, believe in intellectual property.

Another stolen idea, this time stolen from Primochill (thanks, @XNine, for sharing):


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Dagnammit, JUST noticed one of my runs is 1 mm short, good news is I do have a replacement piece which would be perfect.............aside from the fact there are microscratches on the outer surface of the tube (I think maybe when I was cutting tubing the saw skipped/jagged), does anyone know of a method to get rid of scratches from acrylic (polishing etc)


A Novus polishing kit should do the job.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ok What happening in here? I've been away, tending to... ok whats going on. Plagiarism? Oh goodies! Chinese companies trying to make something cheaper than the Hard workers of the US?

Im Listening









TCO

EDIT: Oh and this.

















Oh Amazon you price beating fanatic.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I have not seen anything from them as a new idea. They tend to just steal ideas/designs and make them cheaper in every aspect, typically starting with much lower quality. I'm all about making things more affordable but they flat out stole Monsoon's product.


You know mandrels like that have been around long before Monsoon existed, right? All Monsoon did was size them to 1/2" tube and market them to water coolers.

A great deal of their products are "Inspired" by Bitspower, that is for sure, but imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. They saw great products from the market leader and made their own with slight twists. Some of their products are genuinely different and new though. They were the first with threaded acrylic and their new pump/res units look fairly unique.

Edit: I just heard back that the mandrels have arrived and will be stocked in AU in the next week


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You know mandrels like that have been around long before Monsoon existed, right? All Monsoon did was size them to 1/2" tube and market them to water coolers.
> 
> A great deal of their products are "Inspired" by Bitspower, that is for sure, but imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. They saw great products from the market leader and made their own with slight twists. Some of their products are genuinely different and new though. They were the first with threaded acrylic and their new pump/res units look fairly unique.


Your condescension is well noted. Yes, mandrels have been around for centuries. Monsoon brought them into the market for hard line water coolers. You seem to be very aligned to Barrow, which is fine, but you're missing my point. Monsoon's design is being copied to an exact form but being made as plastic instead. A larger company stealing a design from small business is a despicable practice and there are laws against it.

Their products are not "inspired by" they are stolen from reputable brands.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Dagnammit, JUST noticed one of my runs is 1 mm short, good news is I do have a replacement piece which would be perfect.............aside from the fact there are microscratches on the outer surface of the tube (I think maybe when I was cutting tubing the saw skipped/jagged), does anyone know of a method to get rid of scratches from acrylic (polishing etc)


Not sure you will be able to polish those out. But one good source related to this topic is lowfat 101 on acrylic polishing:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks

I would try some Meguiar polish, or the one Bram suggested, or maybe this

http://www.amazon.com/Polywatch-Plastic-Lens-Scratch-Remover/dp/B0014R9V9O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1431970863&sr=8-6&keywords=polishing+acrylic

you can also try a bit of toothpaste to see how it goes.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Monsoon's are more expensive, no doubt, and I have also have no loyalty to Monsoon. I do, however, believe in intellectual property.
> 
> Another stolen idea, this time stolen from Primochill (thanks, @XNine, for sharing):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd actually prefer Barrow's product here (assuming it's also cheaper) because I think $59 is way too much for this jig.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I'd actually prefer Barrow's product here (assuming it's also cheaper) because I think $59 is way too much for this jig.


I have been told they are not expensive but wasn't given an exact price.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh Amazon you price beating fanatic.


$40 for single 120mm fan?









And I thought my Noctua iPPC 140s were expensive. The Noctua's are bargain basement compared that that price.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> $40 for single 120mm fan?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I thought my Noctua iPPC 140s were expensive. The Noctua's are bargain basement compared that that price.


Just wanted to show that. Most of the Bitspower fittings that are normally 15$ on PCC are almost 35$ on amazon too







Close to a 150% markup (Plus Shipping)

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> $40 for single 120mm fan?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I thought my Noctua iPPC 140s were expensive. The Noctua's are bargain basement compared that that price.


That's a 3rd party seller with inflated pricing. The NB-eLoops are definitely not that expensive.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's a 3rd party seller with inflated pricing. The NB-eLoops are definitely not that expensive.


Why would you even try something like that? They no most of us have to price shop the entire internets for our watercooling parts.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why would you even try something like that? They no most of us have to price shop the entire internets for our watercooling parts.
> 
> TCO


People with Amazon gift cards or those in countries that have no other reseller available.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> People with Amazon gift cards or those in countries that have no other reseller available.


That does make sense now that you put it that way...









TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That does make sense now that you put it that way...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


VSG always brings me back to earth.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> VSG always brings me back to earth.










This is very true.

TCO


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok What happening in here? I've been away, tending to... ok whats going on. Plagiarism? Oh goodies! Chinese companies trying to make something cheaper than the Hard workers of the US?
> 
> Im Listening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Oh and this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh Amazon you price beating fanatic.


Best thing to do is go to Aquatuning.de and buying them there. The dollar to euro are not far apart at times when exchanging. I got my new set of three even cheaper than the first three I bought back on FrozenCPU when it was still open.

Just sucks I still going to need another six or so when I get the other two radiators to add to the main rig. They still not cheap when you need a lot.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Best thing to do is go to Aquatuning.de and buying them there. The dollar to euro are not far apart at times when exchanging. I got my new set of three even cheaper than the first three I bought back on FrozenCPU when it was still open.
> 
> Just sucks I still going to need another six or so when I get the other two radiators to add to the main rig. They still not cheap when you need a lot.


Performance had them for 18$ each the other day. That was pretty cheap. Frozen has had them for 22$

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Am I missing something? http://www.performance-pcs.com/noiseblocker-120x25mm-fans/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-1-120mm-x-25mm-ultra-silent-bionic-blade-fan-800-rpm-below-8-dba.html 18$ on PPCs


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Am I missing something? http://www.performance-pcs.com/noiseblocker-120x25mm-fans/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-1-120mm-x-25mm-ultra-silent-bionic-blade-fan-800-rpm-below-8-dba.html 18$ on PPCs


No Ramz I had found them on amazon for 40$ each.

TCO

Just making small talk on the Water Forum


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No Ramz I had found them on amazon for 40$ each.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Just making small talk on the Water Forum


i know.. i mean why people making a big deal out of it. this has been going on amazon forever. amazon 3rd party sellers do this a lot. and have like absurd prices for items. and what's funny and bothers me so much is when those 3rd party sellers make a price mistake and they don't honor it ...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i know.. i mean why people making a big deal out of it. this has been going on amazon forever. amazon 3rd party sellers do this a lot. and have like absurd prices for items. and what's funny and bothers me so much is when those 3rd party sellers make a price mistake and they don't honor it ...


Because I started a riot while at work again.







You know what happens when I have nothing to do Ramz

TCO


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why would you even try something like that? They no most of us have to price shop the entire internets for our watercooling parts.
> 
> TCO


I see it all the time. Usually people trying to make a quick buck or launder money usually. LoL!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i know.. i mean why people making a big deal out of it. this has been going on amazon forever. amazon 3rd party sellers do this a lot. and have like absurd prices for items. and what's funny and bothers me so much is when those 3rd party sellers make a price mistake and they don't honor it ...


Some will if they don't catch it otherwise the laws are quite different from bnm stores.


----------



## Ceadderman

Usually people taking advantage of newbs and people with more money than brains or kids who've got their parents to foot the bill.

See it on eBay all the time.

~Ceadder


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Usually people taking advantage of newbs and people with more money than brains or kids who've got their parents to foot the bill.
> 
> See it on eBay all the time.
> 
> ~Ceadder


and Craig's List.









I remember 3 days ago a friend showed me a guy selling a logitech headset for 180$ and it's 80$ brand new







lol


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It will be fine,only Pastels/Aurora need draining due to particulate nature of the products,everything else is as safe as it gets.


Thanks for clearing up! But I guess I was just looking for another reason to switch to pastel ^^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> For getting blocks dry after cleaning I use coffee filters to suck up the water out of the microchannels.


Good advice, will buy some before cleaning them out


----------



## emsj86

Yea most people our like that. They think there used item which cost 100 new should be worth 95 used. Anytime I've sold on eBay my computer hardware I out it for a very good price as I more just want it out of the apartment and make some back. Like when i sold my fx8350 and sabertooth motherboard for 180. That or I give away to some of my gamer friends whom may not have extra money for say a sound card or such


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yea most people our like that. They think there used item which cost 100 new should be worth 95 used. Anytime I've sold on eBay my computer hardware I out it for a very good price as I more just want it out of the apartment and make some back. Like when i sold my fx8350 and sabertooth motherboard for 180. That or I give away to some of my gamer friends whom may not have extra money for say a sound card or such


That's how I do it too. Nice to pay it forward. Buyers are a lot less likely to be particular if they got their item at a great price. Plus if you do end up having to refund someone it isn't as bug a deal when the price was low to start with.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> A Novus polishing kit should do the job.


Cheers mate, I don't know what wouldve driven me crazy more. A run that's not quite symmetreical or fine scratches, while hard to see I know that they're there











+



+



=

No scratches and a very happy p5ych00n5


----------



## DLTank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> A Novus polishing kit should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers mate, I don't know what wouldve driven me crazy more. A run that's not quite symmetreical or fine scratches, while hard to see I know that they're there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +
> 
> 
> 
> +
> 
> 
> 
> =
> 
> No scratches and a very happy p5ych00n5
Click to expand...

Is that meant to be Listerine?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DLTank*
> 
> Is that meant to be Listerine?


You could try to use it like listerine but I'm sure it wouldn't taste as minty


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Update on the Build! Cables all installed. Link to build log in siggy.








For Those Interested.









TCO


----------



## wermad

Is it me, or is that orange going a bit brownish??? Didn't look like that in the previous pictures...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it me, or is that orange going a bit brownish??? Didn't look like that in the previous pictures...


I'm assuming it's because it's a night shot.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it me, or is that orange going a bit brownish??? Didn't look like that in the previous pictures...


Yea... I don't know whats going on with the Orange, Its almost a rust colour now, Might have to order maybe yellow to lighten it up? It's orange! Don't get me wrong, just a real dark Orange.

TCO


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea... I don't know whats going on with the Orange, Its almost a rust colour now, Might have to order maybe yellow to lighten it up? It's orange! Don't get me wrong, just a real dark Orange.
> 
> TCO


Did you make that orange yourself?


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea... I don't know whats going on with the Orange, Its almost a rust colour now, Might have to order maybe yellow to lighten it up? It's orange! Don't get me wrong, just a real dark Orange.
> 
> TCO


I had a similar issue. Turned out it was the oxidation on the copper in the rads that was doing it.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea... I don't know whats going on with the Orange, Its almost a rust colour now, Might have to order maybe yellow to lighten it up? It's orange! Don't get me wrong, just a real dark Orange.
> 
> TCO


Looks pretty good but the green is bright, so the orange should be too. Hope you figure it out.

Really nice build btw!


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> I had a similar issue. Turned out it was the oxidation on the copper in the rads that was doing it.


Happens that fast?

I thought TCO just built this rig?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea... I don't know whats going on with the Orange, Its almost a rust colour now, Might have to order maybe yellow to lighten it up? It's orange! Don't get me wrong, just a real dark Orange.
> 
> TCO


Did you blitz your radiators and system. That's the only thing that could be a possible reason.


----------



## wermad

Gigabytes orange is in order


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea... I don't know whats going on with the Orange, Its almost a rust colour now, Might have to order maybe yellow to lighten it up? It's orange! Don't get me wrong, just a real dark Orange.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Did you blitz your radiators and system. That's the only thing that could be a possible reason.
Click to expand...

Yeah...No.
Mayhems dye can be tricky,I have a pastel yellow that has started to turn and the rads are beyond clean.
They are just not stable.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea... I don't know whats going on with the Orange, Its almost a rust colour now, Might have to order maybe yellow to lighten it up? It's orange! Don't get me wrong, just a real dark Orange.
> 
> TCO


Green and Blue perhaps?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah...No.
> Mayhems dye can be tricky,I have a pastel yellow that has started to turn and the rads are beyond clean.
> They are just not stable.


What coolant do you recommend? I'm in the process of blitzing my system.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea... I don't know whats going on with the Orange, Its almost a rust colour now, Might have to order maybe yellow to lighten it up? It's orange! Don't get me wrong, just a real dark Orange.
> 
> TCO


Maybe just switch it to black (?)


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah...No.
> Mayhems dye can be tricky,I have a pastel yellow that has started to turn and the rads are beyond clean.
> They are just not stable.


What do you mean by not stable?

Thanks


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> What do you mean by not stable?
> 
> Thanks


They can change over time.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They can change over time.


Doesn't that happen to all coolants? or specifically mayhems?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah...No.
> Mayhems dye can be tricky,I have a pastel yellow that has started to turn and the rads are beyond clean.
> They are just not stable.
> 
> 
> 
> What coolant do you recommend? I'm in the process of blitzing my system.
Click to expand...

Me? I'm a DI guy but I do use Micks gear on occasions for 'show' rigs.
Part and parcel of running dye is compatibility issues,if it is copper oxide that changes the colour then its,to my mind,a coolant design problem.


----------



## psycho84




----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Doesn't that happen to all coolants? or specifically mayhems?


All dyes can be problematic but Mayhem is the best at explaining it away one way or another. Send him some samples =p


----------



## Dzuks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Added some LED lights, but I'm still somehow not satisfied with the light distribution overall. Suggestions?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Did you make that orange yourself?


No I didn't make the Orange myself!







I guess it's good that I posted this being that it has been the topic of discussion! The Orange it seems is possibly to light? I have "Roughly" 1250 - 1500 ml in the whole loop, Each bottle is good for 1000ml, 250ml Bottle + 750ml of Distilled Water = Perfect Mixed Ratio of Coolant, Its possible I haven't added enough Orange Pastel to the Loop!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Looks pretty good but the green is bright, so the orange should be too. Hope you figure it out.
> 
> Really nice build btw!


Thank you for the compliments (Now if the the Nvidia driver for Witcher 3 would stop crashing on me like it did last night, mid game play I would be Dandy) I will add more orange pastel today first and foremost, On to next quote!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Gigabytes orange is in order


I love this idea! But first I will use the recources I have (ANother bottle of Mayhems pastel (Not all of it ) to see If I can Orange out the Colour a tad more







(Get it? Orange out the Colour, Work out the Color? Ah I tried







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Green and Blue perhaps?


Not Sure if I am Ready for Blue









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Maybe just switch it to black (?)


Hello Mr James! I would need to put some eyeliner on and start hugging my knees in a corner before I changed one of these Colours to Black mate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah...No.
> Mayhems dye can be tricky,I have a pastel yellow that has started to turn and the rads are beyond clean.
> They are just not stable.


I was starting to get worried until "The Stallion" Said this. Thanks B Neg







(I didn't think we had oxidation, or bad stuff just yet)

The Cautious One

Going get my Pearly White Cleaned at the Dentist in T Minus 90min So I will report back afterwards Everyone!


----------



## derickwm

More:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/120#post_23926929


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
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> http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/120#post_23926929


I'll report you for Porn Derick


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
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> http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/120#post_23926929
> 
> 
> 
> I'll report you for Porn Derick
Click to expand...


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No I didn't make the Orange myself!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it's good that I posted this being that it has been the topic of discussion! The Orange it seems is possibly to light? I have "Roughly" 1250 - 1500 ml in the whole loop, Each bottle is good for 1000ml, 250ml Bottle + 750ml of Distilled Water = Perfect Mixed Ratio of Coolant, Its possible I haven't added enough Orange Pastel to the Loop!
> Thank you for the compliments (Now if the the Nvidia driver for Witcher 3 would stop crashing on me like it did last night, mid game play I would be Dandy) I will add more orange pastel today first and foremost, On to next quote!
> 
> I love this idea! But first I will use the recources I have (ANother bottle of Mayhems pastel (Not all of it ) to see If I can Orange out the Colour a tad more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Get it? Orange out the Colour, Work out the Color? Ah I tried
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Not Sure if I am Ready for Blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Mr James! I would need to put some eyeliner on and start hugging my knees in a corner before I changed one of these Colours to Black mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was starting to get worried until "The Stallion" Said this. Thanks B Neg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I didn't think we had oxidation, or bad stuff just yet)
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> Going get my Pearly White Cleaned at the Dentist in T Minus 90min So I will report back afterwards Everyone!


Definitely think the orange should be brighter. IMHO! Roll back drivers. I've that fixes the issue. At least worth a try.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
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> More:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/120#post_23926929


----------



## ondoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Update on the Build! Cables all installed. Link to build log in siggy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For Those Interested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> TCO


what's with the brown color ? looks out of place...


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
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> http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/120#post_23926929


Oh boy... Pure sexiness!!! Heading to the build log now.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/120#post_23926929


Compression fittings?!?!?!?!?!?!!?!?!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/120#post_23926929
> 
> 
> 
> Compression fittings?!?!?!?!?!?!!?!?!
Click to expand...

I was waiting for the first person to spot that







I have to do a quick build with the R3BE for some marketing before I leave for Slovenia and that's what these are for. The final "version" will be hard tubing.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Oh you are going to be doing that? I saw that on facebook I think all the logos are upside down right?

LOL WHY? theres a r4be and so old...


----------



## wermad

r3be is still one smexy board


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Oh you are going to be doing that? I saw that on facebook I think all the logos are upside down right?
> 
> LOL WHY? theres a r4be and so old...



R3BE > R4BE in terms of aesthetics
I have it here already with me
I also have a brand new RVE here too. I do what I want


----------



## wermad

Luv the ek single piece block for the r3e/be:


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Happens that fast?
> 
> I thought TCO just built this rig?


Im sure he did just buy it but if the copper isnt cleaned and prepped prior to the install then this issue can happen. It also depends on the manufacture of the radiators. Some are dirtier than others and a few flushes just dont do. Ive had this issue with EK and Alphacool rads and has to use Blitz from Mayhem before I assembled my loop to keep from discoloration.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The pics of those Titans are the best you have done Derick,well done fella.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The pics of those Titans are the best you have done Derick,well done fella.


i reported this photo for porn


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The pics of those Titans are the best you have done Derick,well done fella.


Thanks dude! As long as I'm able to get one stellar pic per photoshoot, I'm happy. Had a lot trouble last night getting exactly what I wanted with the nickel blocks and backplates but I do love that photo of the triple Titans


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The pics of those Titans are the best you have done Derick,well done fella.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks dude! As long as I'm able to get one stellar pic per photoshoot, I'm happy. Had a lot trouble last night getting exactly what I wanted with the nickel blocks and backplates but I do love that photo of the triple Titans
Click to expand...

Its wallpaper worthy.

AV and ISO 100? A tweak in Lightroom would make them stellar.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Luv the ek single piece block for the r3e/be:


Amazing what a small red acrylic accent can do.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Amazing what a small red acrylic accent can do.


Should be led holes there too. Fitting for the glowing rog logo.

I like the single unit design. Having a separate chipset block can be a pita to plumb.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Luv the ek single piece block for the r3e/be:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing what a small red acrylic accent can do.
Click to expand...

IKR? Wish that EK made my CIVF block with an acrylic plate. Would a looked much better. I painted my steel plate so it's not bad but yeah I agree.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Saw this on Mayhems' Youtube channel:


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Saw this on Mayhems' Youtube channel:


I'm In Love


----------



## rgrwng

Finished water cooling my 350D. Gallery below.

Watercool


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> Finished water cooling my 350D. Gallery below.
> 
> Watercool


Not all that bad, if I could set my finger on some things. First off, white fan-rings while there is nothing else that is white in the rig and where do the black/red/grey cables match in? I would have decided to do it more thorough on the color-side, seems a bit messy with all those different colors and no other details. Also, the soft tubing could easily be exhanged for acrylic tubing, and the final proposal is to use colored coolant (I never use clear tubing unless I am going to use colored coolant).

I would have swapped out the white fan-rings with gray ones and if you are going to use that sleeving then add some red colored coolant and it would be better. If you also would have gone away from the soft tubing over on acrylic tubing that build would have reached new hights.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Ooh! Ooh! I want to join in on the fun!





































Board doesn't work, need to fix a few bent pins (still). Mostly just for looks and nostalgia at this point.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## wermad

^^^That's gorgeous









Did anyone get ahold of a prototype RIVE BE? It looked like a RIVE but w/ black slots. and the same heatsink/fan setup. I think that would have been a lot better then the final BE version imho.


----------



## szeged

Asked in my log but getting more opinions here

Doing an s8 build with stainless steel polished tubing, since it's a horizontal mobo tray the gpus will be front and center of the build. Should I go with all acetal waterblocks which imo would look really nice contrasting with the mirror finish stainless piping. Or should I go with plexi blocks (ek) to see the blood red coolant flowing between the piping. I'm leaning to the acetal atm but a friend brought up that having just a chunk of black in front of the gpu might be more boring than seeing the blood flow through the loop.

Thanks for opinions / cc.

Hey wermad, rads inbound to you, I'll pm you tracking info when I get home.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Asked in my log but getting more opinions here
> 
> Doing an s8 build with stainless steel polished tubing, since it's a horizontal mobo tray the gpus will be front and center of the build. Should I go with all acetal waterblocks which imo would look really nice contrasting with the mirror finish stainless piping. Or should I go with plexi blocks (ek) to see the blood red coolant flowing between the piping. I'm leaning to the acetal atm but a friend brought up that having just a chunk of black in front of the gpu might be more boring than seeing the blood flow through the loop.
> 
> Thanks for opinions / cc.
> 
> Hey wermad, rads inbound to you, I'll pm you tracking info when I get home.


I would go with clear plexi. That case begs to see the flow patterns inside the blocks. Besides the nickel finish on it would go great with the tubes.


----------



## wermad

@ Szeged

Acetal looks sharp with chrome or polished nickel. It's a safe but effective approach imho.

Plexi; if you can match the cpu, and the coolant is a special color or main feature of the build, go with plexi.

Tnx dude, I'll keep an eye out for them


----------



## fast_fate

me too


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Asked in my log but getting more opinions here
> 
> Doing an s8 build with stainless steel polished tubing, since it's a horizontal mobo tray the gpus will be front and center of the build. Should I go with all acetal waterblocks which imo would look really nice contrasting with the mirror finish stainless piping. Or should I go with plexi blocks (ek) to see the blood red coolant flowing between the piping. I'm leaning to the acetal atm but a friend brought up that having just a chunk of black in front of the gpu might be more boring than seeing the blood flow through the loop.
> 
> Thanks for opinions / cc.
> 
> Hey wermad, rads inbound to you, I'll pm you tracking info when I get home.


plexi fo sho!


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Asked in my log but getting more opinions here
> 
> Doing an s8 build with stainless steel polished tubing, since it's a horizontal mobo tray the gpus will be front and center of the build. Should I go with all acetal waterblocks which imo would look really nice contrasting with the mirror finish stainless piping. Or should I go with plexi blocks (ek) to see the blood red coolant flowing between the piping. I'm leaning to the acetal atm but a friend brought up that having just a chunk of black in front of the gpu might be more boring than seeing the blood flow through the loop.
> 
> Thanks for opinions / cc.
> 
> Hey wermad, rads inbound to you, I'll pm you tracking info when I get home.


clear plexi/nickel for me, especially with horizontal mobo.. and even with straight water the nickel or copper on the channels really pops..


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^That's gorgeous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did anyone get ahold of a prototype RIVE BE? It looked like a RIVE but w/ black slots. and the same heatsink/fan setup. I think that would have been a lot better then the final BE version imho.


I tried


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I tried


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm air leak testing my loop, and I have quiet a few Xspc 90 degree fittings. From my last two orders from PPCS, almost all of them would "wiggle" at the rotary part. The air is leaking out some of the rotaries (very very slow), and if I move it, more air will leak out. PPCS has yet to respond to me about it.


----------



## wermad

I bought three used ones and they do move a lot. One did leak and it turned out the one with the most movement.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Glad I bought BitsPower rotary 90's, guess the snugness of them when trying to move them the first time is a very good thing

I want the BE version of my RVE now







lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I would go with clear plexi. That case begs to see the flow patterns inside the blocks. Besides the nickel finish on it would go great with the tubes.


I originally wanted plexi for the flow pattern and all that but was fearing that the brightness of the nickel block would take away from the steel tubing, im going for a blood red almost black coolant though so maybe that would help. Another big thing for me is the EK plexi blocks dont cover the end of the titan x cards so id have this hideous pcb with gross blue caps showing on the end.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ Szeged
> 
> Acetal looks sharp with chrome or polished nickel. It's a safe but effective approach imho.
> 
> Plexi; if you can match the cpu, and the coolant is a special color or main feature of the build, go with plexi.
> 
> Tnx dude, I'll keep an eye out for them


Acetal + polished stainless is looking really good side by side with what i have here and it would probably look really good in the build too. What i do want to try to avoid though is a safe approach, i dont want to do the safe way out or end up doing the same thing over and over. Safe is wayyyy overdone these days imo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> plexi fo sho!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> clear plexi/nickel for me, especially with horizontal mobo.. and even with straight water the nickel or copper on the channels really pops..


Still cant decide, might end up with both to see which i like better. I love seeing the coolant flow through but too much bright nickel might ruin the stainless steel tubing look.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I bought three used ones and they do move a lot. One did leak and it turned out the one with the most movement.


Well I filled me loop anyways. So far it's leak free. Kind of irritating how PPCS won't respond to my email. Hopefully they don't leak. But so far so good. I'm running Mayhems part 2 as of now, and tomorrow I'm filling it will Pastel Ice white.


----------



## Ceadderman

Is PPCs even open yet? Based on the time you posted on contacting them it looks like you contacted them after business hours. I could be wrong. However, they're pretty good about handling issues IMO/experience. So if it's been a day or so, just have a little patience. I know getting stalled on a build sucks but can't be avoided at times.

I am stalled due to family business. We go in on the 11th @ 0230 get there by 0500 and on the table by 0800. Then it's all on the Doctor. Til then we make a weekly run to Vancouver Was for doctors appointments.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is PPCs even open yet? Based on the time you posted on contacting them it looks like you contacted them after business hours. I could be wrong. However, they're pretty good about handling issues IMO/experience. So if it's been a day or so, just have a little patience. I know getting stalled on a build sucks but can't be avoided at times.
> 
> I am stalled due to family business. We go in on the 11th @ 0230 get there by 0500 and on the table by 0800. Then it's all on the Doctor. Til then we make a weekly run to Vancouver Was for doctors appointments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I emailed them May 5th. It's now 12am of May 20th. They've emailed me over a question I had on the Case labs SMA8, but never heard anything of the fittings. So far, they seem to be leak free with the water. I'm doing a 24 hour flush of mayhems part 2, so I'll let you know how it's going.


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you sent them a nicely worded reminder?

It may be simply a case of communication with xspc.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I emailed them May 5th. It's now 12am of May 20th. They've emailed me over a question I had on the Case labs SMA8, but never heard anything of the fittings. So far, they seem to be leak free with the water. I'm doing a 24 hour flush of mayhems part 2, so I'll let you know how it's going.


just don't take them for granted. the most leaking piece of fitting on OCN members are the rotary adapters.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you sent them a nicely worded reminder?
> 
> It may be simply a case of communication with xspc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I did. But if they don't leak, then I'll be okay. They're fine if they don't move. But if I wiggle it, that's when the air escaped (when I leak tested it).


----------



## Luk89kad

Does anyone know if the EK SE rad is something that can be purchased? Ive been browsing their website looking at the PE rads and saw this pic with what looks like a SE rad?



Looks like the SE would fit in with my build ideas nicely! but so far google and searches on here have come up with no info?

Does it exist?


----------



## Jakusonfire

They haven't been officially released yet as far as I know but will be very soon


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I originally wanted plexi for the flow pattern and all that but was fearing that the brightness of the nickel block would take away from the steel tubing, im going for a blood red almost black coolant though so maybe that would help. Another big thing for me is the EK plexi blocks dont cover the end of the titan x cards so id have this hideous pcb with gross blue caps showing on the end.
> Acetal + polished stainless is looking really good side by side with what i have here and it would probably look really good in the build too. What i do want to try to avoid though is a safe approach, i dont want to do the safe way out or end up doing the same thing over and over. Safe is wayyyy overdone these days imo.
> 
> Still cant decide, might end up with both to see which i like better. I love seeing the coolant flow through but too much bright nickel might ruin the stainless steel tubing look.


I toss up a photo of my "old" rig Black Hawk, only nickel+acetal waterblocks (except the EK-Supremacy Full Nickel), looks the best in my mind with acetal blocks if you are going with chrom-plated copper tubing or stainless steel, you got a little more industrial look that way. I have never been a fan of nickel-plexi blocks though.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








It was not horizontal mb-tray though, but the black acetal-blocks and the chrome-plated copper tubing looks spot on in my mind. Mordhaus seems to be coming along nicely, I can see the pictures in my head already.


----------



## XKaan

Hey bros! I'm in a bit of a bind and figured I would post here to see if anyone can help.

As I was doing the loop of my new rig I changed my mind on the direction fo bends and fittings - I came up with a route that was much more aesthetically pleasing and uniform. Long story short, I'm 2 EK black 90 degree fittings short! PPC's is out of stock, Dazmode has them but shipping from them takes a week, etc.

I would make it worth someone while if they even had a couple used black fittings I could buy from them. I wanted to use the long weekend coming up to finish the rig off, but now I am just waiting for fittings to come in stock.

For now so I could leak test and try out Witcher 3 I used an old school piece of tubing with barb fittings for the last part - lol

Hate to ask, I really do - but my OCD is kicking in here!

This is the fitting I need two of: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-fitting-black.html

Thanks in advance for your time...


----------



## emsj86

Last I checked the marketplace has some but there bitspower. Figure a way to cover the logo and you won't know the difference


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well I filled me loop anyways. So far it's leak free. Kind of irritating how PPCS won't respond to my email. Hopefully they don't leak. But so far so good. I'm running Mayhems part 2 as of now, and tomorrow I'm filling it will Pastel Ice white.


Im grabbing my swim trunks for this one... Shirt is coming Off!

TCO


----------



## VSG

For those who don't frequent the EK thread, EK has released an LGA 2011-3 specific version of the Supremacy Evo: http://www.ekwb.com/news/598/19/EK-releases-new-Supremacy-EVO-X99/

Only two versions (nickel plexi and full nickel) but quite a lot less expensive than the full kit. I see that it is using the mounting from the Supremacy MX which had everything pre-installed so mounting this should take just a few seconds on x99


----------



## Jakusonfire

Well that's confusing. So its cheaper because it doesn't come with all the extra parts you need for smaller sockets?
Jet plates, inserts, and the precisemount system.


----------



## SteezyTN

https://youtu.be/n9aXOZAHK4A

My XSPC Photon was not making this sound last night. I'm currently running mayhems Part 2 for the 24 hours, and I woke up to this.

Before I installed the loop, I removed the soft padding that prevent vibrating on the back of the mount, but I added thick 3M padded tape. Is it possible that I missed a piece and its vibrating off the metal of my case? Or is my pump going out? Never ever heard this before.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Well that's confusing. So its cheaper because it doesn't come with all the extra parts you need for smaller sockets?
> Jet plates, inserts, and the precisemount system.


Yeah, it's a socket specific block. I think the included TIM is their Ectotherm also which contributes to the cost savings. Essentially if one is going to have a system for a long time (relatively, and x99 is probably the best bet for that) then this makes sense.


----------



## DrexelDragon

What kind of temps are ya'll getting on GTX 980s?

I have SLI 980s, 5930k in a loop together pushing a 4k 60Hz monitor and 144hz GSYNC 1440p monitor. Temps idle around 30C and during load get up to high 40s, low 50s. Does that sound right?

CPU is not overclocked, GPUs are +235core,+400mem overclocked.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> What kind of temps are ya'll getting on GTX 980s?
> 
> I have SLI 980s, 5930k in a loop together pushing a 4k 60Hz monitor and 144hz GSYNC 1440p monitor. Temps idle around 30C and during load get up to high 40s, low 50s. Does that sound right?
> 
> CPU is not overclocked, GPUs are +235core,+400mem overclocked.


I've only had my 980 SLI setup since this past weekend. I don't have an overclock on it yet but i idle around 26c and in a Valley benchmark on GPU one it's 30c and 2nd GPU is 34c. The difference is probably just the thermal paste I used. On the first GPU I used Gelid extreme and on the second I used the EK brand that came with the waterblock. My setup is ROG Gene with a 4790 slight over clock to 4400 at 1.2 v and one 360 darkside rad and one 240 as well.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> What kind of temps are ya'll getting on GTX 980s?
> 
> I have SLI 980s, 5930k in a loop together pushing a 4k 60Hz monitor and 144hz GSYNC 1440p monitor. Temps idle around 30C and during load get up to high 40s, low 50s. Does that sound right?
> 
> CPU is not overclocked, GPUs are +235core,+400mem overclocked.


what is your ambient Temp?

the higher the ambient the higher the Delta T..

For example i turned on my pc earlier today want water temp was 30C.. ambient is 28

I turn on my AC set it to 24 my water temp is now 24.7C


----------



## Rahldrac

When people talk about their temp during stress test/gaming, do you always have your fans on fan-controller/max?
I usually run all my fans on 5v for the sweet silence, but this will effect temps of course (never over 50 on cpu or GPUs while gaming tho).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> What kind of temps are ya'll getting on GTX 980s?
> 
> I have SLI 980s, 5930k in a loop together pushing a 4k 60Hz monitor and 144hz GSYNC 1440p monitor. Temps idle around 30C and during load get up to high 40s, low 50s. Does that sound right?
> 
> CPU is not overclocked, GPUs are +235core,+400mem overclocked.


Sounds right, Ramz has a good point two quotes down, Ambient temps matter! Idle on my SLI 980s is right under 30c.. 28c or something like that, During gaming (Witcher 3 in Sli) is 45C

5930k Isn't In my GPU loop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I've only had my 980 SLI setup since this past weekend. I don't have an overclock on it yet but i idle around 26c and in a Valley benchmark on GPU one it's 30c and 2nd GPU is 34c. The difference is probably just the thermal paste I used. On the first GPU I used Gelid extreme and on the second I used the EK brand that came with the waterblock. My setup is ROG Gene with a 4790 slight over clock to 4400 at 1.2 v and one 360 darkside rad and one 240 as well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> what is your ambient Temp?
> 
> the higher the ambient the higher the Delta T..
> 
> For example i turned on my pc earlier today want water temp was 30C.. ambient is 28
> 
> I turn on my AC set it to 24 my water temp is now 24.7C


Ramz is on point.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> When people talk about their temp during stress test/gaming, do you always have your fans on fan-controller/max?
> I usually run all my fans on 5v for the sweet silence, but this will effect temps of course (never over 50 on cpu or GPUs while gaming tho).


Fans always at 100%









TCO


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sounds right, Ramz has a good point two quotes down, Ambient temps matter! Idle on my SLI 980s is right under 30c.. 28c or something like that, During gaming (Witcher 3 in Sli) is 45C
> 
> 5930k Isn't In my GPU loop
> 
> Ramz is on point.
> Fans always at 100%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Are you by chance getting horrible performance on Witcher 3 with your 980 sli setup? For me right now I think I'm averaging 25FPS.


----------



## emsj86

Wet hard to compare temps. You can give ball park numbers. But your sound fine. Do much different from each setup. Up like ambient temp, fans , fan rpms, size of radiators, restriction, overclock, duel or single loop, and so on


----------



## DrexelDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sounds right, Ramz has a good point two quotes down, Ambient temps matter! Idle on my SLI 980s is right under 30c.. 28c or something like that, During gaming (Witcher 3 in Sli) is 45C
> 
> 5930k Isn't In my GPU loop
> 
> Ramz is on point.
> Fans always at 100%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Hmm okay seems I'm fine then. Not sure what my ambient temps are. Since your 5930k is in mine and not in yours, the temps make sense then. My fans are at like 40-50%.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Hmm okay seems I'm fine then. Not sure what my ambient temps are. Since your 5930k is in mine and not in yours, the temps make sense then. My fans are at like 40-50%.


we would love to see your custom loop in your rig description


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Are you by chance getting horrible performance on Witcher 3 with your 980 sli setup? For me right now I think I'm averaging 25FPS.


Not Even CLose, I am averaging 65 FPS in SLI at 1440p On Ultra Everything


Spoiler: Witchit 3








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Hmm okay seems I'm fine then. Not sure what my ambient temps are. Since your 5930k is in mine and not in yours, the temps make sense then. My fans are at like 40-50%.


Excellent. Glad it helped









TCO


----------



## DrexelDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> we would love to see your custom loop in your rig description


Added a picture gallery!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Added a picture gallery!


i like it. looks good and your temps are fine.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I toss up a photo of my "old" rig Black Hawk, only nickel+acetal waterblocks (except the EK-Supremacy Full Nickel), looks the best in my mind with acetal blocks if you are going with chrom-plated copper tubing or stainless steel, you got a little more industrial look that way. I have never been a fan of nickel-plexi blocks though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was not horizontal mb-tray though, but the black acetal-blocks and the chrome-plated copper tubing looks spot on in my mind. Mordhaus seems to be coming along nicely, I can see the pictures in my head already.


nice pics thanks for those









i ended up ordering all acetal blocks, i was going to make the blood red coolant one of the main parts of the color scheme but decided i was going to just make the shining stainless be the color pop instead. Thanks again. hopefully ppcs doesnt gimp up my order again lol.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm just curious. What would be a better way to tidy up my Silverstone Sleeved Extenstion? All the wires cross paths and it looks bad.



10 more hours of running Mayhems Part 2, and I'll be filling it with coolant


----------



## concept73

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm just curious. What would be a better way to tidy up my Silverstone Sleeved Extenstion? All the wires cross paths and it looks bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 10 more hours of running Mayhems Part 2, and I'll be filling it with coolant






Cable combs, they will spread out the wires nicely to fill the gaps more, and will give it a more "filled look"
also id prefer to see the cables from the top gpu go below the gpu like the second ones cables.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *concept73*
> 
> 
> Cable combs, they will spread out the wires nicely to fill the gaps more, and will give it a more "filled look"
> also id prefer to see the cables from the top gpu go below the gpu like the second ones cables.


What cable combs do you recommend?

As for the top GPu cables, it's hard to route because my pump/red cover part of the cable management slots. I'll try and find a way to route it like that, as I used to have it that way.

Thanks


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What cable combs do you recommend?
> 
> As for the top GPu cables, it's hard to route because my pump/red cover part of the cable management slots. I'll try and find a way to route it like that, as I used to have it that way.
> 
> Thanks


Since the cable are already made you have to decide if it's worth getting the cable combs that in my opinion look better such as Ensourced, or any that the cable would have to go THROUGH which would require you to put out every single pin,


OR get one that you can just place them into like this:


----------



## emsj86

as suggested above cable combs help a lot. I would have liked to gone the route of the ensourced ones shown above but didn't have the tools to rove my pins so I got the one pictures below. There bat combs. Icemodz.com has all different Colors and sizes. But it helps give t that tight full look


----------



## Ceadderman

Tbh, I got no problem at all pulling every wire one by one to install a few cable combs.

Steezy, you get that sound issue figgied?

~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> as suggested above cable combs help a lot. I would have liked to gone the route of the ensourced ones shown above but didn't have the tools to rove my pins so I got the one pictures below. There bat combs. Icemodz.com has all different Colors and sizes. But it helps give t that tight full look


Repeatedly training them will eventually get them exactly identical. Looks tight.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tbh, I got no problem at all pulling every wire one by one to install a few cable combs.
> 
> Steezy, you get that sound issue figgied?
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sound issue? My pump you mean? No. I emailed XSPC, but you know how their warranty is. "If it breaks, screw you and fix it yourself".


----------



## Hambone07si

Well I got a new project I'm about to start on. I ended up picking up a Core X9 case the other day just for fun. Been looking at what to do with it and came up with my first idea for making a shelf for my SSD's and not having to use any of the drive cages below, thus allowing more room for the quad 480mm rad along with 2 360mm rads, and not sure if I will add in the 240mm with the others.

I just made a plate that will mount my 10x 256gig SSD's side by side standing up and punched all the mounting holes, slots for wires, and holes to mount to the rails in the X9. I will add more holes for tubes if needed. This plate will go in front of the mobo tray and continue towards the front.

So far


----------



## Ceadderman

Are those drives RAID? That looks like an awesome mod.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Something different this time, and no it is not a blast from the past:





































Rudimentary yes, but does a decent job. This is the first CPU block prototype from OCN (and EVGA forum) member @nateman_doo.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm just curious. What would be a better way to tidy up my Silverstone Sleeved Extenstion? All the wires cross paths and it looks bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 10 more hours of running Mayhems Part 2, and I'll be filling it with coolant


It looks like your GPU cables are bigger than the Mobo cable. If that is the case, the E22's that PPCs will fit the GPU but not so well on the Mobo. I have a Cable Mod Kit and the E22's were too big. I think they started carrying the Cable Mod cable combs which work quite well; but be careful with the longer ones, if you bend them too much they will snap.


----------



## Ramzinho

Check my build log for more


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are those drives RAID? That looks like an awesome mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


6x raid 0 for OS and games so read and write will be 1.6gb/s min, and then another 4x raid 0 for storage and whatnot lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> 
> 
> Check my build log for more


I wud but am on my phone.









~Ceadder


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well I got a new project I'm about to start on. I ended up picking up a Core X9 case the other day just for fun. Been looking at what to do with it and came up with my first idea for making a shelf for my SSD's and not having to use any of the drive cages below, thus allowing more room for the quad 480mm rad along with 2 360mm rads, and not sure if I will add in the 240mm with the others.
> 
> I just made a plate that will mount my 10x 256gig SSD's side by side standing up and punched all the mounting holes, slots for wires, and holes to mount to the rails in the X9. I will add more holes for tubes if needed. This plate will go in front of the mobo tray and continue towards the front.
> 
> So far


And I thought my 3x 250gb ssd array was overkill...


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> 6x raid 0 for OS and games so read and write will be 1.6gb/s min, and then another 4x raid 0 for storage and whatnot lol


----------



## derickwm

Guis


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Guis


Nice handtruck.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Guis


Was unicorn-tears-adhesive tape used to seal that box?

Sweet







. I take it sponsored? Can't wait to see what you'll do with it


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> And I thought my 3x 250gb ssd array was overkill...


LOL, yeah, OVERKILL is always fun









I will go a little OVERKILL on my rads too in this build for what I'm cooling.

4790K @ 5ghz 1.300v
Motherboard VRM's since I have them set to Extreme, lets my 5ghz @ 1.300v be stable, needs 1.325v on optimized
Gtx Titan X @ 1352mhz / 7400mhz on stock volts

My 240mm and 360mm EK PE rads do just fine keeping them cool now with 66c max load on cpu, 36c max load on gpu, 36c max load on VRM's under cpu stress testing, 32-34c gaming. This is with ambient at 21-22c.. I would like to keep even cooler, but with less noise so I'm going to add some more rad space to the mix

1x 480mm and 2x 360mm , so pretty much double the amount of rad space I have now or even more since my quad 480mm is 60mm thick, so that should account for a little more than a 30mm thick rad.

I also have a 240mm EK PE rad, but I'm saving that for now. I might add a Mini-itx mobo on the other side of the panel I made for the SSD's. Might use that as my server with a couple 3tb mechanical drives and put a small loop on just the cpu. I have my EK X-res 2.2 pump/res combo and can put that with the 240mm rad, and a EK LTX cpu block I have new sitting in the box still I haven't even touched yet. Would be fine for that setup. With the Core X9 there is more than enough room to add whatever you can think of really









Here's a quick pic of how the panel I made today is fitting in the X9. This panel is 8-1/2" long and I have a 2nd one I made that's 9" long depending on the room I need in the front. Or one can be for mini-itx and other not?? I made the programs and are saved in my pc at work so I can make more if needed, or add in more holes for tubes or mounting other stuff. Wermad, if you want a panel for your X9, just holla







lol


----------



## wermad

^^^^Nice







. Don't forget to post in the club!

For those in the Us that have ordered from aquatuning.us, what's the difference among shipping (speed???):

ups express saver
ups aquatuning usa prime
ups express std

Ups express std is only $4 more then saver, so I feel this is good value if its faster in delivery?


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Guis












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> LOL, yeah, OVERKILL is always fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will go a little OVERKILL on my rads too in this build for what I'm cooling.
> 
> 4790K @ 5ghz 1.300v
> Motherboard VRM's since I have them set to Extreme, lets my 5ghz @ 1.300v be stable, needs 1.325v on optimized
> Gtx Titan X @ 1352mhz / 7400mhz on stock volts
> 
> My 240mm and 360mm EK PE rads do just fine keeping them cool now with 66c max load on cpu, 36c max load on gpu, 36c max load on VRM's under cpu stress testing, 32-34c gaming. This is with ambient at 21-22c.. I would like to keep even cooler, but with less noise so I'm going to add some more rad space to the mix
> 
> 1x 480mm and 2x 360mm , so pretty much double the amount of rad space I have now or even more since my quad 480mm is 60mm thick, so that should account for a little more than a 30mm thick rad.
> 
> I also have a 240mm EK PE rad, but I'm saving that for now. I might add a Mini-itx mobo on the other side of the panel I made for the SSD's. Might use that as my server with a couple 3tb mechanical drives and put a small loop on just the cpu. I have my EK X-res 2.2 pump/res combo and can put that with the 240mm rad, and a EK LTX cpu block I have new sitting in the box still I haven't even touched yet. Would be fine for that setup. With the Core X9 there is more than enough room to add whatever you can think of really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a quick pic of how the panel I made today is fitting in the X9. This panel is 8-1/2" long and I have a 2nd one I made that's 9" long depending on the room I need in the front. Or one can be for mini-itx and other not?? I made the programs and are saved in my pc at work so I can make more if needed, or add in more holes for tubes or mounting other stuff. Wermad, if you want a panel for your X9, just holla
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


OOOOOOOOOOooooooooo ........ Pretty!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*


That looks really good. Once painted and finished it will totally look factory.


----------



## slothiraptor

I was looking at back plates for my R9 290 and noticed EK ones come with thermal pads to put over the gpu core and vrms to help dissipate heat but the XSPC back plate doesn't have any. According to this review the EK back plate with thermal pads gives better cooling performance but XSPC back plate actually gives worse vrm cooling than with it off. Could I just add thermal pads to the XSPC back plate to provide better thermal performance or will it somehow cause problems?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> I was looking at back plates for my R9 290 and noticed EK ones come with thermal pads to put over the gpu core and vrms to help dissipate heat but the XSPC back plate doesn't have any. According to this review the EK back plate with thermal pads gives better cooling performance but XSPC back plate actually gives worse vrm cooling than with it off. Could I just add thermal pads to the XSPC back plate to provide better thermal performance or will it somehow cause problems?


you can add it but check for the proper thickness of the pad. It is no warranty will improve things but it is worth the shot.


----------



## SteezyTN

I purchased a bitspower valve to make an easier drain port. Now I can't get the rest of the water out of my res/pump. Any ideas?


----------



## wermad

open a plug on top of your res to relieve pressure and let the water drain out.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The top plug must already be open. It's because it is connected to the front rad that is still holding water. You will have to tip the case around to work the water out.

My loop holds pockets of water all through the loop. I often use a large syringe and silicon tube to suck water out of places.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> open a plug on top of your res to relieve pressure and let the water drain out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> open a plug on top of your res to relieve pressure and let the water drain out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The top plug just already be open. It's because it is connected to the from rad that is still holding easier. You will have to tip the case around to work the water out.


Yeah, the top is open on the Res. that's how it got emptied to where it is now. Now it's just stuck. I just said screw it and undid the fitting to the front rad to pump. I tilted like hell, and nothing was moving. The water is bluefish because it's mayhems part two. I'm flushing it with distiller now, so hopefully I find an easier way to drain it, as I'm going to use pastel. The zinc oxide is bad for the environment I guess. Don't want to get that everywhere. Thanks a lot for the info.


----------



## wermad

Jak is right, i should have expanded the pic







. That front rad is holding some liquid as most if didn't make over the other side to exit. Anyways, you can plumb the drain to the other port of your bottom rad. Even further, you can plumb both of those ports to the drain.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Jak is right, i should have expanded the pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That front rad is holding some liquid as most if didn't make over the other side to exit. Anyways, you can plumb the drain to the other port of your bottom rad. Even further, you can plumb both of those ports to the drain.


How do I do that? Just by tilting the case?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If its a blitz kit you have run thru it then I suggest removing the rad and emptying it properly,rather than just tilting the case. You don't want any of it to remain...even in small quantities.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> How do I do that? Just by tilting the case?


To drain it now? Yo can detach a line that's on the opposite side and blow on it (plug your res). this should force the liquid up the rad and through the drain.

But I would move the drain to the other port or plumb both ports.



blue line is is to show the two sides of your front rad and the red arrow is about where the water stopped and couldn't make it up the rad to fall to the bottom rad and eventually make its way to the res.

A drain system sometimes will not drain the entire thing. But it makes it easier to get that going. So keep in mind it dont have to drain every last drop


----------



## kizwan

Is it ok to blow it?


----------



## wermad

I blow all the time





















. Seriously, yeah, I put a fist and close the end tube, blow on it to push out as much as possible. Clean mouth is a recommended







. Some use air via a vacuum or compressor.

Btw, anyone know the shipping speeds differences for aquatuning.us for USA orders???? there's not much difference in cost from the saver to the standard.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquatuning.us*
> Shipping costs
> Orders with items which are not in stock will be shipped after the missing items have arrived. A partial shipment of orders is not possible. You have these shipping options and costs:
> 
> UPS Express Saver - 2 to 3 days - 8 USD
> 
> UPS Express - 1 to 2 days - 12 USD
> 
> the minimum order quantity is 75USD (plus shipping).
> 
> all prices plus sales tax. These shipping costs only apply if you use Paypal. For other payment methods there may be an additional fee that will be calculated in your order process depending on the shipment data (weight / amount).


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I blow all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Seriously, yeah, I put a fist and close the end tube, blow on it to push out as much as possible. Clean mouth is a recommended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Some use air via a vacuum or compressor.


That's good to know. And fisting too. Nice! Haha







You mean plug the other end of the tube with finger right.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I blow all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Seriously, yeah, I put a fist and close the end tube, blow on it to push out as much as possible. Clean mouth is a recommended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Some use air via a vacuum or compressor.


^^this.. I do it as well... just make sure all other ports are blocked, And be careful of blowback.. sometimes when you stop blowing , some fluid can come back...usually if there's a lot of fluid.. use a long tube and keep an eye on when you release..

way way back in the day when I was assisting a panelbeater/spraypainter we needed to get some petrol out of the tank.. Naturally I was designated to syphon suck.. wasn't paying attention and ended up with a mouthful ... burping petrol for days, horrible taste...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks really good. Once painted and finished it will totally look factory.
Click to expand...

I think I just wet myself.









Would love to do something like that for the rear 140 exhaust panel of my case to mount my RAID drives an two SSD to.









~Ceadder


----------



## p5ych00n5

Dammit, was going to change one of my runs to a 45



and then noticed this.........


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Is it ok to blow it?


of course it is just watch out for the teeth don't want put teeth marks on the tube and don't swallow any doesn't taste very good


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> of course it is just watch out for the teeth don't want put teeth marks on the tube and don't swallow any doesn't taste very good


u say that to all the girls


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think I just wet myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to do something like that for the rear 140 exhaust panel of my case to mount my RAID drives an two SSD to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If you make a little sketch of what you are wanting and take a pic of where it would be going, maybe I can help you out







, well depending of where you live?? If in the states, no prob. If somewhere else, would have to look into it lol. I can easily make panels of all sorts really. As long as I have the right punch and dies for our machines, or if not, I can always have the CNC plasma burn out the right size or shape, just like a laser cut but not as nice of an edge, can easily be sanded to nice tho. Plasma just leaves a little rougher edge depending on material type used. That panel I made was very easy and took only a few min to make the program, shear the blanks, load tools in the CNC machine, and then only 20 sec for the machine to actually run the part.

I may add to my panel the same hole cutout and 4 mounting holes that the bracket for the EK 140 X-res D5 vario has so I can just mount my pump/res combo right into the panel and not mount a bracket to the panel. Would make it look a LOT CLEANER and less pieces to puzzle together







. I make all kinds of crazy stuff for all kinds of things I create. That's the fun part of my job and I have to take advantage while I can lol.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Dammit, was going to change one of my runs to a 45
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then noticed this.........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


What am I looking at?


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Dammit, was going to change one of my runs to a 45
> 
> 
> 
> and then noticed this.........


What is that?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

This is after Draining and Refilling with Distilled for an Hour. I took out a whole Gallon of Orange so Far, I think it was roughly 2500ml of Distilled that I have put into the system to get out the Orange Pastel.




TCO.

Diva Said to Get blitz and take rads out to fully clean. I am planning on doing that.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This is after Draining and Refilling with Distilled for an Hour. I took out a whole Gallon of Orange so Far, I think it was roughly 2500ml of Distilled that I have put into the system to get out the Orange Pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO.
> 
> Diva Said to Get blitz and take rads out to fully clean. I am planning on doing that.


That's your best answer. I bought the Pro kit, and it does work. I'm currently trying to get all of "part 2" out my loop. Then ill test the pH using the pH meter mayhems included. If all good, I'll fill it using Ice Whte.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's your best answer. I bought the Pro kit, and it does work. I'm currently trying to get all of "part 2" out my loop. Then ill test the pH using the pH meter mayhems included. If all good, I'll fill it using Ice Whte.


How much they want for the Kit?

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This is after Draining and Refilling with Distilled for an Hour. I took out a whole Gallon of Orange so Far, I think it was roughly 2500ml of Distilled that I have put into the system to get out the Orange Pastel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO.
> 
> Diva Said to Get blitz and take rads out to fully clean. I am planning on doing that.


Are you adding anything in with the distilled to get the orange out? There's some additives to add in that will really help clean everything out a lot better. Primochill adds a small bottle with their tubing that is supposed to help clean out your loop before adding new coolant in. I haven't tried using it yet, but I have a couple bottles for when I need to. Just curious


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Are you adding anything in with the distilled to get the orange out? There's some additives to add in that will really help clean everything out a lot better. Primochill adds a small bottle with their tubing that is supposed to help clean out your loop before adding new coolant in. I haven't tried using it yet, but I have a couple bottles for when I need to. Just curious


DAMN!! I think I might have some in the house! I haven't tossed anything in there though, Good Looking!

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

i always was wondering what sysprep is ? they don't even have description for it.

looks like they did add :
Quote:


> *Features:*
> Water Based.
> Environmentally responsible food safe NON-TOXIC biodegradable product-good for you, good for your PC, and good for the planet.
> Pre-Mixed. Just add to a gallon of water and get flushing.
> Safe on all plastics, rubbers, and miscellaneous gasket materials, including Acrylic.
> Non filming system cleanser.
> Specifications:
> 
> Bottle Size: 15ml
> Shelf Life: 2 Years, Unopened
> 
> *Mixing Instructions:*
> Install your cooling loop and double-check connections to ensure loop is "closed". No Leaks!
> Empty bottle of SysPrep into 1 US Gallon of fresh DI or Distilled water, and shake for 30 seconds
> Add mix to cooling loop.
> Fill loop with treated water and be sure to remove as many air bubbles as possible.
> Start loop pump and begin circulating the treated water.
> Run treated water for at least 12 hours to ensure loop is properly flushed and treated.
> Drain System. Inspect drained water for debris or foreign particles. Dispose of drained water. Repeat flush if needed.
> Fill loop with your choice of coolant and begin water-cooling.**
> Notes: During the "flush" the water may become cloudy and foaming may occur. Do not worry! This means the SysPrep is doing its job! If after "flushing" the loop debris is still present, please repeat "flush" again.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How much they want for the Kit?
> 
> TCO


Like $39.95. There's part 1 that makes 1 L (for the radiators) and part 2 (for the entire loop) that makes up to 4. Part 1 was cutting it close for an RX360, RX240, and EX240. If your just doing one loop, it may be enough. You may need to get an additional part 1, but I'm not sure if PPCS sells it. May have to order directly from Mayhems.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What am I looking at?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> What is that?


NVM. Second Pic, red circle is a heat deformation


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> DAMN!! I think I might have some in the house! I haven't tossed anything in there though, Good Looking!
> 
> TCO


You know it







.. Anything to help out buddy







.

Let me know how that stuff works if you use it. I haven't tried yet, but I'm very curious to how good it works over just plain distilled water.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> You know it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Anything to help out buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Let me know how that stuff works if you use it. I haven't tried yet, but I'm very curious to how good it works over just plain distilled water.


If I can get a positive result (Which won't take much) I've got a + 1 on it! I know @IT Diva wants me to Flush with Mayhems Blitz and all that jazz... but If I have something in the house at my disposal that I already paid for (Essentially with the tubing) then We ( I ) should try that first
















TCO

@wermad This is a test.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If I can get a positive result (Which won't take much) I've got a + 1 on it! I know @IT Diva wants me to Flush with Mayhems Blitz and all that jazz... but If I have something in the house at my disposal that I already paid for (Essentially with the tubing) then We ( I ) should try that first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> @wermad This is a test.


Like diva was saying, it's most likely a pH problem. Part 2 will neutralize the radiators and the entire loop.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If I can get a positive result (Which won't take much) I've got a + 1 on it! I know @IT Diva wants me to Flush with Mayhems Blitz and all that jazz... but If I have something in the house at my disposal that I already paid for (Essentially with the tubing) then We ( I ) should try that first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> @wermad This is a test.


Let me know how it goes as well.. i've a bottle of it and it would be great if it's useful


----------



## Hambone07si

PH level testing seems a little overboard for pc cooling IMO, but who knows. It's not like we are checking the levels in a salt water fish tank with living things, it's copper and plastic with some rubber cooling pc parts. If it's clean to the eye and clear after flushing, I would pretty much say it's good personally. It's just how far do you want to go with it I guess. This is the first I've ever heard anyone going as far as testing PH levels in a pc cooling loop. I'm sure IT Diva knows whats up, but to what extreme do you want to go. If your system is clean and your coolant stays clean and clear, that's good in my book. If I add fresh distilled water and then the coolant clouds up in my res and isn't clear, then I am not happy. If it's as clear as pouring into a glass, can you really ask for more?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Let me know how it goes as well.. i've a bottle of it and it would be great if it's useful


I will, You know I will post results, positive or negative. Ill learn the hard way and show people I have, Im not scared of that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> PH level testing seems a little overboard for pc cooling IMO, but who knows. It's not like we are checking the levels in a salt water fish tank with living things, it's copper and plastic with some rubber cooling pc parts. If it's clean to the eye and clear after flushing, I would pretty much say it's good personally. It's just how far do you want to go with it I guess. This is the first I've ever heard anyone going as far as testing PH levels in a pc cooling loop. I'm sure IT Diva knows whats up, but to what extreme do you want to go. If your system is clean and your coolant stays clean and clear, that's good in my book. If I add fresh distilled water and then the coolant clouds up in my res and isn't clear, then I am not happy. If it's as clear as pouring into a glass, can you really ask for more?


She Knows a ton! Don't get her twisted, I am the one with the hard head, yet I make decisions based upon USD for the most part, even If it costs me time and wasted effort







I would rather try something different or something that is provided before I spend another 40$

The Cautious One.

Ph Levels are more than valid when dealing with watercooling, it's up to the creator to make a decision based upon results and cleanliness of the Their Loop.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> PH level testing seems a little overboard for pc cooling IMO, but who knows. It's not like we are checking the levels in a salt water fish tank with living things, it's copper and plastic with some rubber cooling pc parts. If it's clean to the eye and clear after flushing, I would pretty much say it's good personally. It's just how far do you want to go with it I guess. This is the first I've ever heard anyone going as far as testing PH levels in a pc cooling loop. I'm sure IT Diva knows whats up, but to what extreme do you want to go. If your system is clean and your coolant stays clean and clear, that's good in my book. If I add fresh distilled water and then the coolant clouds up in my res and isn't clear, then I am not happy. If it's as clear as pouring into a glass, can you really ask for more?


Mayhems pastels are pH sensitive. In TCO's case, the coolant didn't stay "clean and clear"... Hence the pH issue.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Mayhems pastels are pH sensitive. In TCO's case, the coolant didn't stay "clean and clear"... Hence the pH issue.


It's possible it wasn't the loop, it could have been the Pastel itself Mate!

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Mayhems pastels are pH sensitive. In TCO's case, the coolant didn't stay "clean and clear"... Hence the pH issue.


Some of the dyes are pH sensitive for sure, no idea about the nanoparticles themselves. Unless the suspension has a dielectric point such that slightly acidified coolant is enough to break it up the Pastel part itself should be fine.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Mayhems pastels are pH sensitive. In TCO's case, the coolant didn't stay "clean and clear"... Hence the pH issue.
> 
> 
> 
> *It's possible it wasn't the loop, it could have been the Pastel itself Mate!
> 
> *TCO
Click to expand...

And it's about as possible that Noah's flood actually occurred . . . . .

Sysprep is generally considered to be useless in dealing with pH issues typically brought about by residual flux left in the rads from production.

Just do it right from the get-go this time around.

Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And it's about as possible that Noah's flood actually occurred . . . . .
> 
> Sysprep is generally considered to be useless in dealing with pH issues typically brought about by residual flux left in the rads from production.
> 
> Just do it right from the get-go this time around.
> 
> Darlene




Diva... Can't I just try it?







Please!!

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Gotcha, don't get me wrong, I'm definitely not knocking IT Diva one bit at all. That would be foolish. Testing PH levels just seems crazy to me for water cooling on pc's, but I guess that's because I have never used any coolant's that have the need. I ONLY use distilled water, or sometimes a little bit of additive like what EK sells / includes with their kits. The small bottle that EK provides with the kits I've bought says to mix the 100ml bottle to 900ml of distilled water for a total of 1000ml. That's way too much for my liking and no need IMO. I can add half of that little bottle, 50ml, to a whole gallon of distilled water and it turns it plenty color for me to like and that's almost nothing really added to a gallon. I'm pretty much using straight distilled water at that mix ratio.

I've never once had any algae form in any of my loops or any loops I"ve done for anyone. I just pulled apart a loop I did for someone 4 years ago last week and it was clean as can be. He never once added even a drop of extra coolant to the loop. I put a huge res on the side of his tech bench build that held around 250ml easy, plus the rest of the loop. Filled his res almost to the top, about 90-95% full, when he brought it back it was around 65-70% full still, but clean as can be. I was very surprised at how clean it all was still.

I'm a firm believer in distilled or a tiny bit of additive like I said I mix it. I used a couple drops of corrosion additive that came with my Feser Rad from 5 years ago and that stuff has worked great. I think it's pretty much the same as PT Nuke. I have never used a silver coil either. I'm curious to how well this EK additive holds up over time, but it's hard for me to find out when I keep changing everything in my system over 2 weeks or so and drain the loop once a week about







. Maybe once this new build is done in the X9 I'm doing now, I may leave that alone for a while to see how that coolant does with distilled, but I'm sure I will be ripping the loop apart once I get a 2nd Titan X soon, or other gpu's in the next year HAHA..

I almost used some of that pastel coolant a couple weeks ago, but then I didn't buy it off the shelf. Maybe if it was red and more the color I would have liked in my setup, but it wasn't anything that matched what I was trying to do so.

Edit: YES, just try it. You have gone through plenty of time and effort already, what's another hour of flushing going to hurt before spending more money LOL. You never know, it could be all you needed, or not? Won't know till you try


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Gotcha, don't get me wrong, I'm definitely not knocking IT Diva one bit at all. That would be foolish. Testing PH levels just seems crazy to me for water cooling on pc's, but I guess that's because I have never used any coolant's that have the need. I ONLY use distilled water, or sometimes a little bit of additive like what EK sells / includes with their kits. The small bottle that EK provides with the kits I've bought says to mix the 100ml bottle to 900ml of distilled water for a total of 1000ml. That's way too much for my liking and no need IMO. I can add half of that little bottle, 50ml, to a whole gallon of distilled water and it turns it plenty color for me to like and that's almost nothing really added to a gallon. I'm pretty much using straight distilled water at that mix ratio.
> 
> I've never once had any algae form in any of my loops or any loops I"ve done for anyone. I just pulled apart a loop I did for someone 4 years ago last week and it was clean as can be. He never once added even a drop of extra coolant to the loop. I put a huge res on the side of his tech bench build that held around 250ml easy, plus the rest of the loop. Filled his res almost to the top, about 90-95% full, when he brought it back it was around 65-70% full still, but clean as can be. I was very surprised at how clean it all was still.
> 
> I'm a firm believer in distilled or a tiny bit of additive like I said I mix it. I used a couple drops of corrosion additive that came with my Feser Rad from 5 years ago and that stuff has worked great. I think it's pretty much the same as PT Nuke. I have never used a silver coil either. I'm curious to how well this EK additive holds up over time, but it's hard for me to find out when I keep changing everything in my system over 2 weeks or so and drain the loop once a week about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Maybe once this new build is done in the X9 I'm doing now, I may leave that alone for a while to see how that coolant does with distilled, but I'm sure I will be ripping the loop apart once I get a 2nd Titan X soon, or other gpu's in the next year HAHA..
> 
> I almost used some of that pastel coolant a couple weeks ago, but then I didn't buy it off the shelf. Maybe if it was red and more the color I would have liked in my setup, but it wasn't anything that matched what I was trying to do so.
> 
> Edit: YES, just try it. You have gone through plenty of time and effort already, what's another hour of flushing going to hurt before spending more money LOL. You never know, it could be all you needed, or not? Won't know till you try


Testing PH is only for coloured coolants,not normal water. The water based rad flux will comprehensively ruin Mayhems coolants,just run the hot tap into your rads for half hour for sparkling clean rads for everything else.


----------



## wermad

I throw out all my sys prep bottles







. Never had needed them


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I throw out all my sys prep bottles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Never had needed them


There may come a time!

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Testing PH is only for coloured coolants,not normal water. The water based rad flux will comprehensively ruin Mayhems coolants,just run the hot tap into your rads for half hour for sparkling clean rads for everything else.


I have done that too. Or with a MCP655 being so strong that they are, I would fill up the one side of my sink and have the pump pull hot water from that side and have the pump flush my rads out pretty quickly. I flush all my new rads out with water before I use them, then run some distilled water through them after tap water. Hot water tanks have a salt filter in them so it's not that good to just leave the tap water in without flushing with distilled after. Same reason you shouldn't use Hot water when making coffee or cooking because of the salt.

For how cheap distilled water is, I don't mind flushing my new rads with a gallon or 2 before using them. It's only $1 - $1.50 per gallon in the store by me for distilled. I can't argue about loosing $3 for knowing my rads are nice and clean







. I always loop my pump/res or res together and run those with some distilled before putting in my loops, not only to clean them, but also to make sure the pumps are working properly and are sealed nicely when attaching a res top to them.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I throw out all my sys prep bottles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Never had needed them


Have you actually tried them before to see how they do? I haven't yet so that's why I'm asking. I have a few bottles laying around just incase I needed to flush something more than just using distilled water or hot water, but that usually works to where I've never needed to use the sys prep. I've had others say to put 50% alcohol in your res, rads, or whatnot and close the ports up with a small piece of tube or plugs and shake them back and forth for a while and then flush them out, but I didn't really like the idea of putting that in my loop. Especially on acrylic or anything with o-rings. I wipe things down with alcohol, but don't flush the insides with it. It may be fine but I just haven't needed anything more than hot water at worst case, I guess because I only use distilled water or very little additive to distilled for my coolant's. Haven't gone with pastels or anything like that yet, even tho some are starting to look pretty dame sweet


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> There may come a time!
> 
> TCO


Since the new advance launched, I've never used and never saw any side effects. Granted, I flush my rads thoroughly w/ vinager + hot distilled and I flush the rest w/ room temp distilled. Used both nickel and copper blocks btw. And again, run naked distilled water







.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I have done that too. Or with a MCP655 being so strong that they are, I would fill up the one side of my sink and have the pump pull hot water from that side and have the pump flush my rads out pretty quickly. I flush all my new rads out with water before I use them, then run some distilled water through them after tap water. Hot water tanks have a salt filter in them so it's not that good to just leave the tap water in without flushing with distilled after. Same reason you shouldn't use Hot water when making coffee or cooking because of the salt.
> 
> For how cheap distilled water is, I don't mind flushing my new rads with a gallon or 2 before using them. It's only $1 - $1.50 per gallon in the store by me for distilled. I can't argue about loosing $3 for knowing my rads are nice and clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I always loop my pump/res or res together and run those with some distilled before putting in my loops, not only to clean them, but also to make sure the pumps are working properly and are sealed nicely when attaching a res top to them.
> 
> 
> Have you actually tried them before to see how they do? I haven't yet so that's why I'm asking. I have a few bottles laying around just incase I needed to flush something more than just using distilled water or hot water, but that usually works to where I've never needed to use the sys prep. I've had others say to put 50% alcohol in your res, rads, or whatnot and close the ports up with a small piece of tube or plugs and shake them back and forth for a while and then flush them out, but I didn't really like the idea of putting that in my loop. Especially on acrylic or anything with o-rings. I wipe things down with alcohol, but don't flush the insides with it. It may be fine but I just haven't needed anything more than hot water at worst case, I guess because I only use distilled water or very little additive to distilled for my coolant's. Haven't gone with pastels or anything like that yet, even tho some are starting to look pretty dame sweet


I would be careful using hot water with your pumps. I think they have a pretty low operating temp.


----------



## Deeptek

If your going to do Sysprep make sure to just do it on your rads. It took the finish off the inside of my fittings once before.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I have done that too. Or with a MCP655 being so strong that they are, I would fill up the one side of my sink and have the pump pull hot water from that side and have the pump flush my rads out pretty quickly. I flush all my new rads out with water before I use them, then run some distilled water through them after tap water. Hot water tanks have a salt filter in them so it's not that good to just leave the tap water in without flushing with distilled after. Same reason you shouldn't use Hot water when making coffee or cooking because of the salt.
> 
> For how cheap distilled water is, I don't mind flushing my new rads with a gallon or 2 before using them. It's only $1 - $1.50 per gallon in the store by me for distilled. I can't argue about loosing $3 for knowing my rads are nice and clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I always loop my pump/res or res together and run those with some distilled before putting in my loops, not only to clean them, but also to make sure the pumps are working properly and are sealed nicely when attaching a res top to them.
> 
> 
> Have you actually tried them before to see how they do? I haven't yet so that's why I'm asking. I have a few bottles laying around just incase I needed to flush something more than just using distilled water or hot water, but that usually works to where I've never needed to use the sys prep. I've had others say to put 50% alcohol in your res, rads, or whatnot and close the ports up with a small piece of tube or plugs and shake them back and forth for a while and then flush them out, but I didn't really like the idea of putting that in my loop. Especially on acrylic or anything with o-rings. I wipe things down with alcohol, but don't flush the insides with it. It may be fine but I just haven't needed anything more than hot water at worst case, I guess because I only use distilled water or very little additive to distilled for my coolant's. Haven't gone with pastels or anything like that yet, even tho some are starting to look pretty dame sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would be careful using hot water with your pumps. I think they have a pretty low operating temp.
Click to expand...

Not D5's,they are solar recirc pumps,good for 90+c with a capable top. Its the stock top that has the low temp rating,not the pump.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I would be careful using hot water with your pumps. I think they have a pretty low operating temp.


Let me rephrase that some. When I say hot water, that is meaning to the point of still being able to keep your hand in it. If you can put your hand in the water and keep it in there and not pull it out, that is hot water as like a jacuzzi. The hottest I've ever seen a jacuzzi is around 40c (104f) and that's as hot as I could stand to be in. That is well below the max water temp of the pumps. I wasn't talking like boiling water or nothing lol.. The MCP655 or D5 pumps are 55-60c max water temp I think is what the labels say. Looking back at how I posted above, I guess I should have mentioned what I was meaning by hot water. My bad









I'm pretty sure I have a pic of the label from the mcp655 I just took off that system I did from 4 years ago. I took some pic's of the water cooling parts since he wanted me to take the water loop off and put a simple Hyper 212 on instead. I'll look for a pic of the label. I'm at work or I would just look at the pump on my shelf.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> If your going to do Sysprep make sure to just do it on your rads. It took the finish off the inside of my fittings once before.










Goodness... How many times have you used sysprep? Do you think it was sysprep that did it for sure?

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Goodness... How many times have you used sysprep? Do you think it was sysprep that did it for sure?
> 
> TCO


TCO, sysprep will do nothing to your rad problem mate. If you still want to use pastel get the blitz and be done with it and do it properly. If you don't want to use pastel anymore then you don't need the blitz. Flush the loop with distill until you have not residue of the orange left. Fill, recirculate drain - repeat until no trace is left. Don't waste your time with sysprep it will accomplish you nothing.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

I think I've heard of that happening to some black plated fittings before, but I cant say i've heard about it with any other chrome, nickel, etc plated fittings


----------



## Hambone07si

Here's a pic of the mcp655 label that came with the stock top. Shows here 60c / 140f max water temp. 40c / 104f wouldn't harm them at all.


----------



## SteezyTN

What do you guys think?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> TCO, sysprep will do nothing to your rad problem mate. If you still want to use pastel get the blitz and be done with it and do it properly. If you don't want to use pastel anymore then you don't need the blitz. Flush the loop with distill until you have not residue of the orange left. Fill, recirculate drain - repeat until no trace is left. Don't waste your time with sysprep it will accomplish you nothing.










I understand. I thought this would be to just get the Orange out, But the Blitz would just neutralize the toxins from the Rads yes?

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think I just wet myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to do something like that for the rear 140 exhaust panel of my case to mount my RAID drives an two SSD to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you make a little sketch of what you are wanting and take a pic of where it would be going, maybe I can help you out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , well depending of where you live?? If in the states, no prob. If somewhere else, would have to look into it lol. I can easily make panels of all sorts really. As long as I have the right punch and dies for our machines, or if not, I can always have the CNC plasma burn out the right size or shape, just like a laser cut but not as nice of an edge, can easily be sanded to nice tho. Plasma just leaves a little rougher edge depending on material type used. That panel I made was very easy and took only a few min to make the program, shear the blanks, load tools in the CNC machine, and then only 20 sec for the machine to actually run the part.
> 
> I may add to my panel the same hole cutout and 4 mounting holes that the bracket for the EK 140 X-res D5 vario has so I can just mount my pump/res combo right into the panel and not mount a bracket to the panel. Would make it look a LOT CLEANER and less pieces to puzzle together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I make all kinds of crazy stuff for all kinds of things I create. That's the fun part of my job and I have to take advantage while I can lol.
Click to expand...

PM'ed!









Thank you so much.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What do you guys think?


Looks good man. How is everything running?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand. I thought this would be to just get the Orange out, But the Blitz would just neutralize the toxins from the Rads yes?
> 
> TCO


Part 1 (for rads only) acid (I believe) washes the rads. Part 2 is for the whole system (rads included) to return everything to a normal PH level.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Looks good man. How is everything running?


When I had part 2 from the blitz kit in, I ran the PC and was working great. Super quiet. The pastel has only been in for about 20 minutes, so I'm going to bleed it now, and sometime today I'm going to get everything nice and pretty







need to work on the cable management, especially the back, and get my temp sensors up. Thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand. I thought this would be to just get the Orange out, But the Blitz would just neutralize the toxins from the Rads yes?
> 
> TCO


If you will run blitz you will need to take the rads out. Part one will take the gunk out and residues from the solder job and should be on the rads alone not the whole loop. Then you fit rads back and run part 2 on the whole loop. Part 2 will do several things: prepare the system to be on neutral PH level when pastel is added. But it will also re-suspend everything in the loop to flush out the particles and residues of part 1 + rad gunk. For now you can run your loop with the orange diluted in DI without problems until you get blitz (assuming here of course you still want to run pastel).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you will run blitz you will need to take the rads out. Part one will take the gunk out and residues from the solder job and should be on the rads alone not the whole loop. Then you fit rads back and run part 2 on the whole loop. Part 2 will do several things: prepare the system to be on neutral PH level when pastel is added. But it will also re-suspend everything in the loop to flush out the particles and residues of part 1 + rad gunk. For now you can run your loop with the orange diluted in DI without problems until you get blitz (assuming here of course you still want to run pastel).


the kit is definitely worth it! Running Pastel Ice white right now. I screwed up the pH buffers, so I don't know if the pH is neutral. We will see in a few days though haha. I really hope it stays white for a few months.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Here's a pic of the mcp655 label that came with the stock top. Shows here 60c / 140f max water temp. 40c / 104f wouldn't harm them at all.


http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BR-19A.pdf

Page 3.

Always look at the actual manufacturers specs rather than the rebranded info,not that the Koolance info is incorrect because it is totally correct for the Noryl top as provided stock...I have learnt the hard way not to take someone elses sticker job as fact however.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What do you guys think?


Looking good.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> PM'ed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No prob buddy!! I'll take a look and see what I can do for you. You live in the states right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great man!! Awesome looking system


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What do you guys think?


Great job. Loving it!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you will run blitz you will need to take the rads out. Part one will take the gunk out and residues from the solder job and should be on the rads alone not the whole loop. Then you fit rads back and run part 2 on the whole loop. Part 2 will do several things: prepare the system to be on neutral PH level when pastel is added. But it will also re-suspend everything in the loop to flush out the particles and residues of part 1 + rad gunk. *For now you can run your loop with the orange diluted in DI without problems until you get blitz (assuming here of course you still want to run pastel)*.


This is the pare I am unsure of...









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This is the pare I am unsure of...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


No problem for a week or so. Plenty of people with good cleaning and careful preparation run just DI for months in a row without problem. What are you unsure? Corrosion? biological contamination?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No problem for a week or so. Plenty of people with good cleaning and careful preparation run just DI for months in a row without problem. What are you unsure? Corrosion? biological contamination?


Oh No, Im not that smart to ponder things of that nature, just what coolant to use or just Distilled









TCO


----------



## wermad

Is there a preference for those who use di (deionized ) vs distilled? Besides availability.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is there a preference for those who use di (deionized ) vs distilled? Besides availability.


Go with distilled. Pure H2O.

Edit:They are about the same. DI can be harmful if ingested. So if you, or a family member may accidently drink it, dont use it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh No, Im not that smart to ponder things of that nature, just what coolant to use or just Distilled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You're not smart to ponder this, but you will build an extreme gaming rig. Seems about right







seriously though... Just do it. It only requires it done once.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Nice looking rig @SteezyTN









As discussed earlier, cable comes would help those sleeved cables out








OR, if you are as good with your hands as your case suggests, you might wanna consider stitching them together?

Here is what I ended up with:




*Edit
I used This latching guide by @alpenwasser! Really nice guide.


----------



## SteezyTN

@GaMbi2004Thanks. Appreciate it.

As for the cables, that's a great idea. I think I may do that. Only problem is the space I'm given for the routing holes. My pump and res cover more than half, so it's hard to fit the cables through. So they would more than likely bend, than look straight. Does that make sense? I think I'll actually stick them together tonight.

Also, I would quote your post, but I'm on mobile and I don't know the spoiler by heart. Haha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You're not smart to ponder this, but you will build an extreme gaming rig. Seems about right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seriously though... Just do it. It only requires it done once.


The things I go through to play video games has no reflection on my intelligence or lack there of! Once a computer is built, they kinda become like Lego's for grown ups... Just an awesome replication of something your mind visualized in the first place.

TCO


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The things I go through to play video games has no reflection on my intelligence or lack there of! Once a computer is built, they kinda become like Lego's for grown ups... Just an awesome replication of something your mind visualized in the first place.
> 
> TCO


relaxe guys relaxe...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> relaxe guys relaxe...


Im calm Rico Suave. Im calm

TCO


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im calm Rico Suave. Im calm
> 
> TCO


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nx64_N4AA04

HAHAHAHAHA


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> relaxe guys relaxe...


Haha who said we were arguing?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im calm Rico Suave. Im calm
> 
> TCO


Also @TheCautiousOne, what coolant did you use for your 750D build?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> HAHAHAHAHA










Im glad you caught that, It was for me (To crack a smile) but I'm glad you caught that, plus your avatar is priceless.







I couldn't pass it up









TCO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Haha who said we were arguing?
> 
> Also @TheCautiousOne, what coolant did you use for your 750D build?


I used EK pastel White







And we weren't arguing.







Just a conversation


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is there a preference for those who use di (deionized ) vs distilled? Besides availability.


They amount to the same thing for our purposes,I use DI as its freely available for me.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They amount to the same thing *for our purposes*,I use DI as its freely available for me.


B_ Neg... Are you including us in Your Family? Thats... thats... the nicest thing I've every heard you say.... You..... YOu.... Stallion









TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

So I've been asking around in the mayhems club, but no one seems to know, or they haven't seen my post. mayhems Pastels have Zinc Oxide at 0.1% and it says on the bottle to dispose in a safe and appropriate manner. Well, when the time comes and even when I get some on my table or whatever and clean it up with a paper towel, how exactly do I dispose of it?


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The things I go through to play video games has no reflection on my intelligence or lack there of! Once a computer is built, they kinda *become like Lego's for grown ups*... Just an awesome replication of something your mind visualized in the first place.
> 
> TCO


I just said this exact same thing to a coworker who didn't believe building a computer was that easy.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> relaxe guys relaxe...


Don't upset TCO, we don't want him drinking coolant again.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I just said this exact same thing to a coworker who didn't believe building a computer was that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't upset TCO, we don't want him drinking coolant again.










You know what happens when Im stuck at work.....









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They amount to the same thing *for our purposes*,I use DI as its freely available for me.
> 
> 
> 
> B_ Neg... Are you including us in Your Family? Thats... thats... the nicest thing I've every heard you say.... You..... YOu.... Stallion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I didnt know there was segregation......


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I've been asking around in the mayhems club, but no one seems to know, or they haven't seen my post. mayhems Pastels have Zinc Oxide at 0.1% and it says on the bottle to dispose in a safe and appropriate manner. Well, when the time comes and even when I get some on my table or whatever and clean it up with a paper towel, how exactly do I dispose of it?


It's safe to throw wet paper towels etc in the trash, and dump excess or discarded liquid down the drain.

It's been asked before, there's nothing toxic or dangerous in the coolants like pastel or X1.

D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I didnt know there was segregation......


Merely trying to antagonize you for a response B Neg.. Nothing more than that







It has been my pleasure to stumble across this magnificent thread









Thanks for responding... Your silence the other day had me concerned.



TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's safe to throw wet paper towels etc in the trash, and dump excess or discarded liquid down the drain.
> 
> It's been asked before, there's nothing toxic or dangerous in the coolants like pastel or X1.
> 
> D.


But this is where I'm confused.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I didnt know there was segregation......
> 
> 
> 
> Merely trying to antagonize you for a response B Neg.. Nothing more than that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has been my pleasure to stumble across this magnificent thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for responding... Your silence the other day had me concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Sorry,I am playing E.....

A lot of E......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's safe to throw wet paper towels etc in the trash, and dump excess or discarded liquid down the drain.
> 
> It's been asked before, there's nothing toxic or dangerous in the coolants like pastel or X1.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> But this is where I'm confused.
Click to expand...

Do you think it contains anything more dangerous than what you use to clean the toilet? Food for thought....


----------



## PinzaC55

Just got my new Titan X underwater and basic install with much tidying up to do. My two rads are slight overkill now for the one GPU but hey ho.....


----------



## Ramzinho

@B Neg. i'll try what u said man and i will let you know how it goes


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry,I am playing E.....
> 
> A lot of E......


The Space Game? Elite Dangerous?

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you think it contains anything more dangerous than what you use to clean the toilet? Food for thought....


haha. But I'm dead serious. I just got done taking college chemistry, and I would like to know. If the website says (as well as being printed on the bottle) that it is dangerous to the environment, I would be concerned on how I dispose of it.

So basically, you're saying that it's okay to rinse down the drain?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The things I go through to play video games has no reflection on my intelligence or lack there of! Once a computer is built, they kinda become like Lego's for grown ups... Just an awesome replication of something your mind visualized in the first place.
> 
> TCO


Now imma watch the Lego movie w/ my kiddies







.

Did you find any debris or gunk in the orange liquid? I've been out and about running errands and it's hard to keep track of this fast paced thread


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Now imma watch the Lego movie w/ my kiddies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Did you find any debris or gunk in the orange liquid? I've been out and about running errands and it's hard to keep track of this fast paced thread


Not enough to fill up half of my pinky nail.. So there was a tad but not enough to where I exclaimed "Oh my goodness, I should have cleaned those rads out ! " you know?

I am about to get off in .... 10 min? I will check the jug again to see if anything was floating around today and settled while at work, I will keep draining and refilling the clear up the orange.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you think it contains anything more dangerous than what you use to clean the toilet? Food for thought....
> 
> 
> 
> haha. But I'm dead serious. I just got done taking college chemistry, and I would like to know. If the website says (as well as being printed on the bottle) that it is dangerous to the environment, I would be concerned on how I dispose of it.
> 
> So basically, you're saying that it's okay to rinse down the drain?
Click to expand...

As a professional? No,the coolant contains biocide that is potentially not biodegradable.

As a guy in the pub? Yes,Zinc oxide is used as a food additive and is non toxic.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As a professional? No,the coolant contains biocide that is potentially not biodegradable.
> 
> As a guy in the pub? Yes,Zinc oxide is used as a food additive and is non toxic.


Okay. Thanks.
Also, if that's the case, I will heavily dilute it with water before pouring it down the drain.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay. Thanks.
> Also, if that's the case, I will heavily dilute it with water before pouring it down the drain.


Your coolant in the drain will be like a fart in a hurricane! No need to mix it with water first.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Your coolant in the drain will be like a fart in a hurricane! No need to mix it with water first.










plus rep for that comment haha. It's just that all these chemicals... Well... There chemicals. All this stuff is out of my comfort zone. The Mayhems Blitz kit uses phosphoric acid, and all these other chemicals. It was actually pretty scary dealing with it all.


----------



## emsj86

Outside of the obviously one most will say (avoiding it to not stir anything up) what brand of rads our known to need blitzing and which ones don't. Anything other than ends in cool


----------



## fast_fate

Info up in the usual place


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Info up in the usual place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man I love EK packaging.. it's sexy.. if the products are 8/10 which they are not.. the packaging would make them 10/10.. but i guess packaging make them 12/10


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Personal, I hate all those electric cables!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just cut them all and/or paint them black. My


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Man I love EK packaging.. it's sexy.. if the products are 8/10 which they are not.. the packaging would make them 10/10.. but i guess packaging make them 12/10


I agree on the packaging aspect. The boxes that my Supremacy, PE Rads, DDC heatsink and res/top arrived in are absolutely gorgeous. The Swiftech MCP35X packaging (generic white box with a sticker) however was extremely cheap even though it costs more than all my other WC parts.

Actually, it's the same things with packaging of Monsoon fittings vs. Bitspower fittings. Monsoon fittings come in beautiful black boxes w/ artwork and include extra o-rings and while the more expensive Bitspower fittings come in a cheap tiny zip lock bag.


----------



## Hambone07si

Having some fun now









Custom SSD panel, painted








Quad 480mm Rad, painted











Back in a bit after running to the store. Will be dry by then and will see how it looks in the case


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Having some fun now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom SSD panel, painted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quad 480mm Rad, painted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in a bit after running to the store. Will be dry by then and will see how it looks in the case


Such a tease!


----------



## SteezyTN

What's the best 560mm radiator for low speed fans? Thought about an XSPC EX560, but it has high FPI


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What's the best 560mm radiator for low speed fans? Thought about an XSPC EX560, but it has high FPI


i would ask VSG aka Geggeg


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What's the best 560mm radiator for low speed fans? Thought about an XSPC EX560, but it has high FPI


http://hardwarelabs.com/sr2/products/black-ice-sr2/sr2-560


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What's the best 560mm radiator for low speed fans? Thought about an XSPC EX560, but it has high FPI


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i would ask VSG aka Geggeg


PM sent with relevant info and links


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Having some fun now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom SSD panel, painted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quad 480mm Rad, painted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> Back in a bit after running to the store. Will be dry by then and will see how it looks in the case


Awesome work dude









You have a build log btw?


----------



## VSG

It's uncanny how similar these fans are to the Corsair SP120s:


----------



## SteezyTN

Okay guys, need some advice. I have three XSPC g1/4 temp sensors. I really don't want them to be "in" the case because it would look aesthetically unpleasing. Is there a way I can mount all three in a single 5.25" bay?


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's uncanny how similar these fans are to the Corsair SP120s:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


True, though I think in the little they do to differentiate they end up looking better, at least the black/white ones do. I'm not a _fan_ of the brightly colored corners.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> True, though I think in the little they do to differentiate they end up looking better, at least the black/white ones do. I'm not a _fan_ of the brightly colored corners.


Brightly lit corner. Single one. There are two LEDs on one corner pointing in opp directions, so the ring isn't really lit up equally throughout. You can see it in the dark pic above, but here's another example:










It's not that bad though, I knew about the two LEDs on a single corner part and it looks better than I thought it would- especially the white ones. Performance is pretty decent also.

Antec now has a similar version wherein they have the ring as well and 4 LEDs (one per corner) pointed into the ring which seems to look better but the specs and a few emails with Antec reps confirm these are case fans, not radiator fans.


----------



## wermad

Is that TT stuff??? How does it compare to the enermax w/ the led rings?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that TT stuff??? How does it compare to the enermax w/ the led rings?


Yeah that's the TT Riing 12 LED. No idea about Enermax fans, never even seen them in person to be honest.


----------



## wermad

Is it an led strip or just leds shinning on a clear/colored ring?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's uncanny how similar these fans are to the Corsair SP120s:


Is that Freddy Krueger hiding in the shadows of the green ring


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Brightly lit corner. Single one. There are two LEDs on one corner pointing in opp directions, so the ring isn't really lit up equally throughout. You can see it in the dark pic above, but here's another example:
> 
> It's not that bad though, I knew about the two LEDs on a single corner part and it looks better than I thought it would- especially the white ones. Performance is pretty decent also.
> 
> Antec now has a similar version wherein they have the ring as well and 4 LEDs (one per corner) pointed into the ring which seems to look better but the specs and a few emails with Antec reps confirm these are case fans, not radiator fans.


I was referring to the bright colours on the (presumably) rubber corners, but I see what you mean by the LED placement.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Is that Freddy Krueger hiding in the shadows of the green ring


Dude! i saw jason before I even read your comment! wth in deeddy


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome work dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have a build log btw?


No build log yet. I guess I should start one huh? LOL. Thanks tho for the complement







.. I blew out my quad rad with my compressor (since this rad was from way back when running those 3 gtx 480's you bought off me







) since it was pretty dirty, then washed out the core with hot water in the sink, took outside and sprayed the core very lightly to give it that new look again, covered the core with 2 piece's of cardboard cut to size, then sprayed the shroud red to go with the red n black ROG theme that will be in my X9 build. I love the look of the red around black on the rad







.. Got back from the store and everything was dry. I got a 2 for 1 deal while painting the rad tho I really didn't think of, the screws I put in the rad holes to block the paint actually look pretty slick on the black SSD panel I made HAHA!! Mounted the ssd's back on the panel and put the rad in the case too so I could get a idea of how things are going to look. I'm really liking the build I'm going for this time, especially since I'm kinda taking my time and not trying to knock this one out in 4 hours from start to finish. I want to paint my other 2 triple 360mm rads the same way as I did this one.

I will be pulling the plexi out of the side panel and pulling the perforated front out of the case (might make a perforated panel replacing the stock one, but with round holes vs the slots and will not have the 3x 5-1/4" bays cut into it) and painting those red as well, same with the top panel. I will leave the frame black to accent the red some and still keep up with the ROG theme. I'm going to give this build some real effort and spend some time to do it right. It will pay off in the end









Not sure what way I want to mount the quad down low? standing on the side or laying down? I'll have to think about that one for a bit as I keep looking at the case lol. Here's what I got after today, and making the custom panel yesterday on the CNC at work. Not bad for a couple days worth of work.




If you guys have some ideas, I'm all ears. Would love some ideas to kick around while building








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay guys, need some advice. I have three XSPC g1/4 temp sensors. I really don't want them to be "in" the case because it would look aesthetically unpleasing. Is there a way I can mount all three in a single 5.25" bay?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Of course you can. Just make a mounting plate for them to fit in. As long as all three can fit in that area size wise, then sure you can mount them there.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it an led strip or just leds shinning on a clear/colored ring?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Two LEDs on a single corner pointing in opp directions and lighting up a clear ring.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Is that Freddy Krueger hiding in the shadows of the green ring


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Dude! i saw jason before I even read your comment! wth in deeddy


Thanks guys, now I can't unsee it


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay guys, need some advice. I have three XSPC g1/4 temp sensors. I really don't want them to be "in" the case because it would look aesthetically unpleasing. Is there a way I can mount all three in a single 5.25" bay?


I would Cut the bay place holder to fit them with a dremel


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I would Cut the bay place holder to fit them with a dremel


I did an estimate, and it appears only two would fit. I may as well just buy the XSPC bay temperature holder


----------



## Hambone07si

@ SteezyTN, what Ramz said will work for sure. Or since you live in the states, shipping is pretty easy for us. I'm in Cleveland Ohio. If you measure the size of the cutout needed, as in width and height needed for them to fit in, and also the outside dimensions of the bezels so I know how far to space them so they all fit. I can make you a small panel for them to fit in nicely out of some 1/8" aluminum or something similar if you wanted. That would be a real easy little panel for me to make on the CNC's at work. I can use a square punch so the cutout is perfect and the corners don't have radius's if you want? You pay shipping costs and I'll find some scraps at work to make it out of. Usually I just buy the guys that load the tools in the machine a 6 pack for their time, but the hardest person to get something from is the programmer to make a program for the CNC, but you're in luck, I AM the programmer







. Will only take me a couple min to make that and print out a program sheet so the guys in the shop know what to do with the blank I give them with the disk. I have 2 temp sensors in my loop now, but I'm just running the wires to a temp header on my mobo to read temps in AI Suite 3 in windows. I wouldn't mind having some of those digital displays myself so I may just make 2 panels, one for you and I. Then I can see my temps while in game or whenever. My fan controller has temp readouts but I'm not fond of the display on it and not sure I will be using this controller in my new case I'm building. I may come up with a nice little panel to mount them in to sit in front of my ssd's so I can see through the window easily if I can make it looks nice and clean.

How much were those displays you have? I'm curious now, but if you would like me to make something for you, just let me know and we'll figure something nice out so it looks good in your sweet looking build. Sound good









Could always mount like this too if you wanted? Look at the pic of your case I edited. I could actually make the panel long enough to cover that whole gap that you can see through on the right side of your res to close that area up and then mount the 3 displays anywhere on the panel. Not sure if you leave the back of your case off so you can see through it there or not?



Or looking something like this?? Well it would look better than my paint edit, but you get the idea lol


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I am here admitting defeat. I have run into a very frustrating issue that I can not figure out at all.

I am setting up my first 4 way Folding rig. It will not have SLI enabled, but in the coming pictures, you will see that I have the bridge attached for rigidity reasons only.

My issue. I filled the system, and started it up, and immediately noticed a small amount of fluid coming from the Terminal for card #1. Since it is a plexi terminal, I could see through and tell that the o-rings were not seated in their grooves, which was strange as I checked them consistently when installing them to make sure they were mounted properly. I found that the edge around the oring had simply fallen off. See here:



Up to figuring out that there was an issue, the flow was great and made a full loop back to the Res.

Once I get the o-rings reset, i went to fill it again, and this time, it seem to have a blockage somewhere along the line, and the bitspower fittings in between the terminal start dripping:



I checked the loop, attached a hose to the top of it, and was able to pull fluid through the ports by creating a vacuum, but now the bitspower fittings won't stop letting water out slowly.

I have Never run into this issue before, and I am completely stumped. This is the full loop. Water is no longer making it to the radiator now, so I have no idea what I could have done by fixing the o-ring.



Can someone please give me a little insight as to what is going on?

I do have a drain on the bottom of the rad also. The system is empty, as you can see in the last picture. I put the flow direction as it was working before I fixed the first leak. Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## neocloud2004

This is my computer I've been working on.

Specs

case is a cosair 750D
Mobo GA Z87X-UD3H
cpu I5 4670K 3.4g oc to 4.1 at 1.19v
memory 16G of crucial memory (2 8g kits)
video card Pny GTX970
boot drive256 crucial mx100 ssd
game and video storage1T WD hhd
psu themaltake 850w

The watercooling specs
xspc waterblock
xspc slim 240 radiator
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservoir
HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 760 Reference Design Full Coverage Water Block ( I used to have a gtx 760 I got luck that both card was compatible with this waterblock yay for saving money lol)
Swiftech MCP655 Variable Speed 12v Water Pump w/ G1/4 Thread Ports
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 7/16"ID x 5/8" OD
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Dual 120mm Radiator

To mount the reservoir I had to drill in to the case and bolt it and just mount the pump right to the reservoir
I made custom led strip that I bought from amazon and solder them to molex connectors which u really cant get a good pic of them on my I put the alphacool xt45 240 on the front standing up I got it push pull while the xspc slim is on top just with push hopefully


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I am here admitting defeat. I have run into a very frustrating issue that I can not figure out at all.
> 
> I am setting up my first 4 way Folding rig. It will not have SLI enabled, but in the coming pictures, you will see that I have the bridge attached for rigidity reasons only.
> 
> My issue. I filled the system, and started it up, and immediately noticed a small amount of fluid coming from the Terminal for card #1. Since it is a plexi terminal, I could see through and tell that the o-rings were not seated in their grooves, which was strange as I checked them consistently when installing them to make sure they were mounted properly. I found that the edge around the oring had simply fallen off. See here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up to figuring out that there was an issue, the flow was great and made a full loop back to the Res.
> 
> Once I get the o-rings reset, i went to fill it again, and this time, it seem to have a blockage somewhere along the line, and the bitspower fittings in between the terminal start dripping:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I checked the loop, attached a hose to the top of it, and was able to pull fluid through the ports by creating a vacuum, but now the bitspower fittings won't stop letting water out slowly.
> 
> I have Never run into this issue before, and I am completely stumped. This is the full loop. Water is no longer making it to the radiator now, so I have no idea what I could have done by fixing the o-ring.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone please give me a little insight as to what is going on?
> 
> I do have a drain on the bottom of the rad also. The system is empty, as you can see in the last picture. I put the flow direction as it was working before I fixed the first leak. Any help is greatly appreciated.


If you are trying to run parallel, you're missing one of the fittings between cards 2 and 3. For series, you need to have the 1st card feed the 2nd, 2nd feed the 3rd, 3rd feed the 4th and then out. What kind of flow are you trying to do there? You're like half way in between both with neither running correct IMO. Why not just try a series setup and see if that works without leaking. It seems like you are creating a blockage there with how you have them hooked up to each other. That would cause a leak because of forcing pressure there.

Or set it up for a regular parallel setup and add 1 more fitting between cards 2 and 3. I think that is your problem.

Is that some type of flow setup that you have seen work before? I have NEVER seen 4 cards hooked up like that, and for that reason I think you are making them leak. Can you explain why you have them hooked up that way? I just don't understand that one bud??


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> If you are trying to run parallel, you're missing one of the fittings between cards 2 and 3. For series, you need to have the 1st card feed the 2nd, 2nd feed the 3rd, 3rd feed the 4th and then out. What kind of flow are you trying to do there? You're like half way in between both with neither running correct IMO. Why not just try a series setup and see if that works without leaking. It seems like you are creating a blockage there with how you have them hooked up to each other. That would cause a leak because of forcing pressure there.
> 
> Or set it up for a regular parallel setup and add 1 more fitting between cards 2 and 3. I think that is your problem.
> 
> Is that some type of flow setup that you have seen work before? I have NEVER seen 4 cards hooked up like that, and for that reason I think you are making them leak. Can you explain why you have them hooked up that way? I just don't understand that one bud??


That's series-parallell. Its how the 4 way EK bridges are set up.


----------



## wermad

@Hambone

He's running semi-parallel







. Its like connecting two parallel systems w/ a single link.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> If you are trying to run parallel, you're missing one of the fittings between cards 2 and 3. For series, you need to have the 1st card feed the 2nd, 2nd feed the 3rd, 3rd feed the 4th and then out. What kind of flow are you trying to do there? You're like half way in between both with neither running correct IMO. Why not just try a series setup and see if that works without leaking. It seems like you are creating a blockage there with how you have them hooked up to each other. That would cause a leak because of forcing pressure there.
> 
> Or set it up for a regular parallel setup and add 1 more fitting between cards 2 and 3. I think that is your problem.
> 
> Is that some type of flow setup that you have seen work before? I have NEVER seen 4 cards hooked up like that, and for that reason I think you are making them leak. Can you explain why you have them hooked up that way? I just don't understand that one bud??


Same concept as this:



I am two fittings, not one, short of full parallel. To add in on more piece of tubing, I would need two more fittings, and I won't be able to get them until Tuesday at least, so I figured I would try the semi parallel idea.

The first two blocks would be Full parallel, then a serial to maintain pressure equal pressure on the first two cards. Then Parallel out. I purchased this lot of fittings from a user, and there were only enough to get this far. I may pull it apart and go strict serial, but like I stated earlier, the flow worked great, until i had to fix terminal one for the oring seating issue.


----------



## beezyboy

Hey guys. New to overclock, what do you guys think of my build? Any suggestions what else I should do to match my coolant color?
Specs:
Intel i7 4930k
Asus rampage extreme black edition
32 gb of corsair dominator ram
500gb Samsung solid state
corsair 760t case
2 × evga gtx 980 sc
evga 1000watt power supply
xspc 360 rad
dual swiftech pumps
bitspower resovoir and fittings
ek blocks


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beezyboy*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys. New to overclock, what do you guys think of my build? Any suggestions what else I should do to match my coolant color?
> Specs:
> Intel i7 4930k
> Asus rampage extreme black edition
> 32 gb of corsair dominator ram
> 500gb Samsung solid state
> corsair 760t case
> 2 × evga gtx 980 sc
> evga 1000watt power supply
> xspc 360 rad
> dual swiftech pumps
> bitspower resovoir and fittings
> ek blocks


Welcome to OCN. nice looking build man.. you can fill in your pc specs in your signature using the guide in mine.

Have a great day.


----------



## mus1mus

Anyone tried bending polycarbonate sheets?

How different is it compared to Acrylic?


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> haha. But I'm dead serious. I just got done taking college chemistry, and I would like to know. If the website says (as well as being printed on the bottle) that it is dangerous to the environment, I would be concerned on how I dispose of it.
> 
> So basically, you're saying that it's okay to rinse down the drain?


Down the sewage drain yes, down a storm water drain no.

if you only knew what some companies put down the sewage like my workplace we put about 2000lt of biocide down the drain a week for starters.
Also we do run a 2 stage effluent plant and part of the treatment is using hydrogen peroxide 50% technical grade we only put 1000lt a week of that down the drain too to reduce the B.O.D
But then it all goes to the main city sewage treatment plant were it goes though a 18 stage purification process.

Also we do have local council quarterly testing to check that we are within the specified limits of effluent discharge.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Nice looking rig @SteezyTN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As discussed earlier, cable comes would help those sleeved cables out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR, if you are as good with your hands as your case suggests, you might wanna consider stitching them together?
> 
> Here is what I ended up with:
> 
> *Edit
> I used This latching guide by @alpenwasser! Really nice guide.


Happy you find it useful, and nice result!


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Time to get ready... Holiday weekend coming up... This thread always blows up with updates.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> That's series-parallell. Its how the 4 way EK bridges are set up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Hambone
> 
> He's running semi-parallel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its like connecting two parallel systems w/ a single link.


AHHH, okk. I have not seen a semi-parallel like that. I figured it was one or the other. The logic there is somewhat strange to me, but if that was how it's designed, I'm sure there's a reason.

Just seeing that he was having leaking issues there, it seemed that after the single inlet, the flow was opening up bigger into 2 channels, and then trying to force back into 1 channel and that seems like it would create more restriction or pressure, hence cause it to leak as it was. That's one is new to me. Serial works great, parallel works for a lot, that 3rd way is a new one and just seemed odd to me with how it splits and then goes back, then splits, and then goes back again LOL.

Would that not still create more pressure in that area tho? Like a river opening up into 2 rivers and there being twice as much water, then it trying to push twice the water back into 1 stream and causing an overflow? Just asking. I guess if everything is mounted correctly and seal good, it will definitely hold the pressure, but if not, I could easily see it start to leak.

Thanks for clearing that up now, learn new things everyday








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Anyone tried bending polycarbonate sheets?
> 
> How different is it compared to Acrylic?


I've bent a lot of different materials including plastics, acrylics, and poly's. Best thing that worked for me is mounting the piece to a bench with some clamps of some sort, can use a piece of leather, rubber, cardboard, or whatever you like to not scratch it up, have the area that you want to bend right at the edge of the bench / table / piece of wood and then use a heat gun to heat up the area some (not too much to melt or discolor it) and then start to bend easily so it doesn't go out of wack. Let it cool down and then you are good to go.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay guys, need some advice. I have three XSPC g1/4 temp sensors. I really don't want them to be "in" the case because it would look aesthetically unpleasing. Is there a way I can mount all three in a single 5.25" bay?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> @ SteezyTN, what Ramz said will work for sure. Or since you live in the states, shipping is pretty easy for us. I'm in Cleveland Ohio. If you measure the size of the cutout needed, as in width and height needed for them to fit in, and also the outside dimensions of the bezels so I know how far to space them so they all fit. I can make you a small panel for them to fit in nicely out of some 1/8" aluminum or something similar if you wanted. That would be a real easy little panel for me to make on the CNC's at work. I can use a square punch so the cutout is perfect and the corners don't have radius's if you want? You pay shipping costs and I'll find some scraps at work to make it out of. Usually I just buy the guys that load the tools in the machine a 6 pack for their time, but the hardest person to get something from is the programmer to make a program for the CNC, but you're in luck, I AM the programmer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will only take me a couple min to make that and print out a program sheet so the guys in the shop know what to do with the blank I give them with the disk. I have 2 temp sensors in my loop now, but I'm just running the wires to a temp header on my mobo to read temps in AI Suite 3 in windows. I wouldn't mind having some of those digital displays myself so I may just make 2 panels, one for you and I. Then I can see my temps while in game or whenever. My fan controller has temp readouts but I'm not fond of the display on it and not sure I will be using this controller in my new case I'm building. I may come up with a nice little panel to mount them in to sit in front of my ssd's so I can see through the window easily if I can make it looks nice and clean.
> 
> How much were those displays you have? I'm curious now, but if you would like me to make something for you, just let me know and we'll figure something nice out so it looks good in your sweet looking build. Sound good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could always mount like this too if you wanted? Look at the pic of your case I edited. I could actually make the panel long enough to cover that whole gap that you can see through on the right side of your res to close that area up and then mount the 3 displays anywhere on the panel. Not sure if you leave the back of your case off so you can see through it there or not?
> 
> 
> 
> Or looking something like this?? Well it would look better than my paint edit, but you get the idea lol


Much as Hambone suggests, I like the idea of using custom side trim panels as a way to dress up gaps, hide necessary uglies, or conceal cabling that is difficult to manage.

Using them as a means to add a display works very well, especially when done in conjunction with an appropriate side panel window mod.

Here I've integrated a pair of flow meters in the trim panel on my first chiller build, and created a new side panel window to make them easily viewable.



Darlene


----------



## Hambone07si

Hey Diva, what build is that there that was a "chiller"?? I would love to see some more pics of the chiller setup!! I had fun with a chilled setup once, until I went overboard ( like aways







) and had a mishap lol. I was playing way to close to the edge of delta and delta bit me in the arse







.. I just laughed tho because I knew I was going to push it to that extreme, thank god for warranties!! Everything that did get hurt was all replaced for free, well besides shipping costs. My chiller was a little overkill tho to have running in my place for more that a few day of fun. It was actually a $5000 beer chiller from my buddies bar that I converted into a chiller for my pc. It was one of the chillers that run chilled fluid down the hose that the kegs hook up to so you don't have to refrigerate the kegs, by the time the beer came out the handle, it was chilled to whatever you set the thermostat too. Had a 15 gallon tank of chilled coolant in it and was great because with that much coolant being chilled, it never got warm even when pushing a lot of pc hardware.

Best part was seeing my i7 980x idling at -2c across the board lol , but would love to checkout some more pics of that build if you could link me something to checkout or whatnot. Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Hey Diva, what build is that there that was a "chiller"?? I would love to see some more pics of the chiller setup!! I had fun with a chilled setup once, until I went overboard ( like aways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and had a mishap lol. I was playing way to close to the edge of delta and delta bit me in the arse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I just laughed tho because I knew I was going to push it to that extreme, thank god for warranties!! Everything that did get hurt was all replaced for free, well besides shipping costs. My chiller was a little overkill tho to have running in my place for more that a few day of fun. It was actually a $5000 beer chiller from my buddies bar that I converted into a chiller for my pc. It was one of the chillers that run chilled fluid down the hose that the kegs hook up to so you don't have to refrigerate the kegs, by the time the beer came out the handle, it was chilled to whatever you set the thermostat too. Had a 15 gallon tank of chilled coolant in it and was great because with that much coolant being chilled, it never got warm even when pushing a lot of pc hardware.
> 
> Best part was seeing my i7 980x idling at -2c across the board lol , but would love to checkout some more pics of that build if you could link me something to checkout or whatnot. Thanks


It's the "Tropical Frost" build in my sig, http://www.overclock.net/t/1507999/tropical-frost-my-chiller-assisted-dual-loop-plate-exchanger-experiment

I'm now working on 2 more in Caselabs TH10A cases, so that I can have all the pumps and res's inside the case.

I built Tropical Frost with a hybrid concept that uses the Koolance plate style heat exchangers with separate warm and cold loops.

The new builds also use that same concept.

Under low to moderate loads, the rads in the warm loop are sufficient to maintain delta t under 5C easily . . . . as load increases and delta t exceeds 5C, the chiller(s) power on and the Aquaero then maintains them on until delta t reaches -10C, (or whatever I set it at based on dew point) and then they turn off until delta t rises above 5C again.

Most of the time, the chiller(s) don't have to run, so it's quiet, and saves on wear and tear, as well as the electric bill when it doesn't have to be on all the time.

I built some custom electronics that allow for several means to control the chiller(s) so that I have a manual and also auto control from multiple Aquaeros, and then optionally, power off the fans while the chiller is on, so they don't work against the chiller.

I'm using all PWM fans controlled by Aquaeros, so they do slow down easily to 500 rpm or lower. At that speed, they shouldn't work against the chiller all that much, and the cooler air in the case as a result of the fans running may help keep the dew point a little lower . . . that's why the "fan-kill" feature of my controller pcb is optional and some experimentation will ultimately be required to make a positive determination as to how necessary it is..

Darlene


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Hey Diva, what build is that there that was a "chiller"?? I would love to see some more pics of the chiller setup!! I had fun with a chilled setup once, until I went overboard ( like aways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and had a mishap lol. I was playing way to close to the edge of delta and delta bit me in the arse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I just laughed tho because I knew I was going to push it to that extreme, thank god for warranties!! Everything that did get hurt was all replaced for free, well besides shipping costs. My chiller was a little overkill tho to have running in my place for more that a few day of fun. It was actually a $5000 beer chiller from my buddies bar that I converted into a chiller for my pc. It was one of the chillers that run chilled fluid down the hose that the kegs hook up to so you don't have to refrigerate the kegs, by the time the beer came out the handle, it was chilled to whatever you set the thermostat too. Had a 15 gallon tank of chilled coolant in it and was great because with that much coolant being chilled, it never got warm even when pushing a lot of pc hardware.
> 
> Best part was seeing my i7 980x idling at -2c across the board lol , but would love to checkout some more pics of that build if you could link me something to checkout or whatnot. Thanks


Forget what Diva did, we want to see pics of that 15 gallon chilled coolant setup.














PLEASE!!!!!


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beezyboy*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys. New to overclock, what do you guys think of my build? Any suggestions what else I should do to match my coolant color?


coolant and purple led color looks very soft .. cute rig..


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> AHHH, okk. I have not seen a semi-parallel like that. I figured it was one or the other. The logic there is somewhat strange to me, but if that was how it's designed, I'm sure there's a reason.
> 
> Just seeing that he was having leaking issues there, it seemed that after the single inlet, the flow was opening up bigger into 2 channels, and then trying to force back into 1 channel and that seems like it would create more restriction or pressure, hence cause it to leak as it was. That's one is new to me. Serial works great, parallel works for a lot, that 3rd way is a new one and just seemed odd to me with how it splits and then goes back, then splits, and then goes back again LOL.
> 
> Would that not still create more pressure in that area tho? Like a river opening up into 2 rivers and there being twice as much water, then it trying to push twice the water back into 1 stream and causing an overflow? Just asking. I guess if everything is mounted correctly and seal good, it will definitely hold the pressure, but if not, I could easily see it start to leak.


I the pump is pushing 2 gallons of water per minute, and it splits into two separate but equal paths, in parallel, it would split 1 gallon per minute across each. Then come back to 2 gallons, not adding a much of a rise in pressure along the way. If you split it across 4, and the pump isn't strong enough, it may not push through to one or two of the upper blocks like it would the lower blocks. With these same pumps, I still, 2 weeks after finishing my x99 build, have bubbles in the GPU blocks. This is why I decided to try the semi parallel, as well as missing fitting.

I may have to chance the flow from bottom up, to top down. That is the only thing I am thinking, but none of this explains the leaking when the pump is turned off. When I say it leaks, I didn't take the time while the pump was running to take pictures, lol. I guess I should have mentioned that earlier.


----------



## Ramzinho

tried to buy a silicon insert from mcmaster







./. gotta love being in egypt

I'm so frustrated !!!! UGHHHHH
Quote:


> We Have Cancelled Your Order‏
> 
> Hi Ramzy,
> Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from our established customers. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We cannot accept this order or future orders.
> [Censored]


Sorry i wont show the name of the rep .. but it's just frustrating


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's the "Tropical Frost" build in my sig, http://www.overclock.net/t/1507999/tropical-frost-my-chiller-assisted-dual-loop-plate-exchanger-experiment
> 
> I'm now working on 2 more in Caselabs TH10A cases, so that I can have all the pumps and res's inside the case.
> 
> I built Tropical Frost with a hybrid concept that uses the Koolance plate style heat exchangers with separate warm and cold loops.
> 
> The new builds also use that same concept.
> 
> Under low to moderate loads, the rads in the warm loop are sufficient to maintain delta t under 5C easily . . . . as load increases and delta t exceeds 5C, the chiller(s) power on and the Aquaero then maintains them on until delta t reaches -10C, (or whatever I set it at based on dew point) and then they turn off until delta t rises above 5C again.
> 
> Most of the time, the chiller(s) don't have to run, so it's quiet, and saves on wear and tear, as well as the electric bill when it doesn't have to be on all the time.
> 
> I built some custom electronics that allow for several means to control the chiller(s) so that I have a manual and also auto control from multiple Aquaeros, and then optionally, power off the fans while the chiller is on, so they don't work against the chiller.
> 
> I'm using all PWM fans controlled by Aquaeros, so they do slow down easily to 500 rpm or lower. At that speed, they shouldn't work against the chiller all that much, and the cooler air in the case as a result of the fans running may help keep the dew point a little lower . . . that's why the "fan-kill" feature of my controller pcb is optional and some experimentation will ultimately be required to make a positive determination as to how necessary it is..
> 
> Darlene


AWESOME!! I will check it out for sure. You seem to know your stuff well and that's great. I too am like that with electronics especially after being the wiring guy for 7 years on the "Eclipse Mark 5's" , silicon sputtering machines that make cpu's and other types of processors. I had a lot of detailed work to do on those and about 5,000+ wires to run once one of those were done and having to be very clean. I also had to test out all the boards at idle and set voltages on all of them and then under loads and make sure the voltages stayed within the limits. I had a blast doing that, and built about 35-40 of those machines over the 7 years. I have some pics of how crazy the wiring was and how clean I was making them look. I'll tell ya, the guys from where the machines were sent to came to visit us and seen what we did, they asked who was behind all the wiring and electrical testing on them, when my boss pointed to me ( started at 19 and left at 26 ) and said that kid right there, those guys jaws hit the floor when they seen a kid was doing all that work LOL. Fun times. It's what got me started into the PC building and haven't stopped since. Then got into water and fun grew even more. Then the chilling began and well, you know that one







. I damaged a few things all in fun, but always had a smile on my face doing so.

This is why I'm very interested in seeing some of your work and what you have created. I'll be looking into some of it later when I get home and have some time to sit down and relax. Friday before the holiday weekend always sucks at work







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Forget what Diva did, we want to see pics of that 15 gallon chilled coolant setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PLEASE!!!!!


LOL, I won't forget what she said, but I will give you your request







.. I just need some more time to look into her work and will do so later on.

On the chilled setup I had going, I have to find some more pics at home as I didn't post all of them on here but a few. Here's a pic of the chiller hooked up the the 800D build I had with a i7 980x and 3x gtx480s all being chilled. Not long after everything was pulled from the 800D and put onto a custom tech bench I made for easier access to changing things around. Was so much fun playing with the cold chilled water, even more so living in Cleveland Ohio during the winters and opening the windows and having fans blowing in so my place was about 0c in temperature as I was wearing winter coat inside so that I could run the chiller down to sub zero temps and see my cpu sitting at -2c and whatnot. Call me crazy, but crazy gets exciting









Here's a couple pics to enjoy


----------



## tytechguy

Ok guys, I had uploaded a pic of my rig a week or two ago in my Corsair AIR540. Now I have a new case and some other parts. I went with the Caselabs S8 and ordered it in black then I sanded it down and shot it with PPG white base and added a hint of green pearl to the clear coat. I spent an entire day buffing this dude out. But I must say it turned out pretty good. I am about to do the step up and get the classified board. The red PCI slots are really annoying. The Classified does have some red but at least its just the E on the sb heatsink and can be painted. Which I will do and in white. I also have another Airplex Rad coming and a 360 drop in for the top so I can move both Rads up above. Then its on to separating the CPU from the GPU. I also have 2 Bitspower res' coming with all the fittings and a cap switchover kit for the current fittings I have. All in all it should be pretty decent when I'm done. Oh, and the fan controller on the bottom is a temp until the Aquaero 6 XT gets here too.Tell me what you guys think about it.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tytechguy*
> 
> Ok guys, I had uploaded a pic of my rig a week or two ago in my Corsair AIR540. Now I have a new case and some other parts. I went with the Caselabs S8 and ordered it in black then I sanded it down and shot it with PPG white base and added a hint of green pearl to the clear coat. I spent an entire day buffing this dude out. But I must say it turned out pretty good. I am about to do the step up and get the classified board. The red PCI slots are really annoying. The Classified does have some red but at least its just the E on the sb heatsink and can be painted. Which I will do and in white. I also have another Airplex Rad coming and a 360 drop in for the top so I can move both Rads up above. Then its on to separating the CPU from the GPU. I also have 2 Bitspower res' coming with all the fittings and a cap switchover kit for the current fittings I have. All in all it should be pretty decent when I'm done. Oh, and the fan controller on the bottom is a temp until the Aquaero 6 XT gets here too.Tell me what you guys think about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Too much light in picture! I agree, definitely say get rid of that red. It clashes.


----------



## tytechguy

Ok, I fixed it hopefully. I took another one and pulled some of the ISO out to tone it down a bit. Even with my lights turned all the way down it was still way too much light. Yeah, I am so sick of the red. I am doing the trade up Monday of next week. Thanks for the input.


----------



## derickwm

Soon...™








http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/180#post_23938205


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Soon...™
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lovely work Derrick . .love the colors. do you take photos in raw and modify them or you intentionally take the pics that way?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tytechguy*
> 
> Ok, I fixed it hopefully. I took another one and pulled some of the ISO out to tone it down a bit. Even with my lights turned all the way down it was still way too much light. Yeah, I am so sick of the red. I am doing the trade up Monday of next week. Thanks for the input.


Cool, I'd say as you upgrade to start to lower the amount of prominent colors in the build. Right now you have Blue, Green, Red, Black, and White that are all on major parts of the build. Should be more like White, Green and MAYBE one other.

But that's just my preference to my own tastes so take it as you will.


----------



## tytechguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Cool, I'd say as you upgrade to start to lower the amount of prominent colors in the build. Right now you have Blue, Green, Red, Black, and White that are all on major parts of the build. Should be more like White, Green and MAYBE one other.
> 
> But that's just my preference to my own tastes so take it as you will.


Yeah, my colors are now green, black, and white. Hence the cable colors. I have the switch-over kit coming to switch my compression caps over to black. Then once I change the board out and paint the E on the heatsink white I think it will be pretty close to what I want. I realize there are way too many colors going on right now but that will change here soon. I'm with you though, I don't like a multitude of colors in a case. Especially a white one.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Soon...™
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely work Derrick . .love the colors. do you take photos in raw and modify them or you intentionally take the pics that way?
Click to expand...

A little bit of both. I take my photos in an almost pitch black room with very long exposures and a little something special at the end


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tytechguy*
> 
> Yeah, my colors are now green, black, and white. Hence the cable colors. I have the switch-over kit coming to switch my compression caps over to black. Then once I change the board out and paint the E on the heatsink white I think it will be pretty close to what I want. I realize there are way too many colors going on right now but that will change here soon. I'm with you though, I don't like a multitude of colors in a case. Especially a white one.


This sounds better


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> This sounds better


There you go with your OCD again.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I like the idea of using custom side trim panels as a way to dress up gaps, hide necessary uglies, or conceal cabling that is difficult to manage.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I go one further and hide everything in the tray.....even the res.

Integration is king!







This is very much my style. No more 'uglies'.

The only downside to this build is doing anything to it requires stripping down. Not a problem as such as the design doesnt actually need anything done...could be interesting in a couple of years when its gets a flush and refill tho.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Bueller? Can anyone help?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Bueller? Can anyone help?


With what?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> With what?


http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85150#post_23937818

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85160#post_23937902

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85170#post_23938775

So far, one person referenced something to me, and two people answered his questions. I have stopped making threads on these forums because they seem to go unnoticed, but I figured this would be the exact spot I would get help. At least one person has tried.

As for an update, EK is replacing all 7 of the terminals that I currently have so that the terminal issue is fixed. But the issue of getting leaks from the fittings is frustrating. Even without pressure, the leaks are happening. I took all of the fittings off and checked the seals, and the o-rings are sealing very well (visually), and it is really hard to get the tubing out of the fitting because of the fit, but they still drip.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85150#post_23937818
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85160#post_23937902
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85170#post_23938775
> 
> So far, one person referenced something to me, and two people answered his questions. I have stopped making threads on these forums because they seem to go unnoticed, but I figured this would be the exact spot I would get help. At least one person has tried.
> 
> As for an update, EK is replacing all 7 of the terminals that I currently have so that the terminal issue is fixed. But the issue of getting leaks from the fittings is frustrating. Even without pressure, the leaks are happening. I took all of the fittings off and checked the seals, and the o-rings are sealing very well (visually), and it is really hard to get the tubing out of the fitting because of the fit, but they still drip.


Did you strip the screw? Is it the fitting leaking or the plexi?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Replace the o-rings


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Did you strip the screw? Is it the fitting leaking or the plexi?


"*But the issue of getting leaks from the fittings is frustrating*. Even without pressure, the leaks are happening. I took all of the fittings off and checked the seals, and the o-rings are sealing very well (visually), and it is really hard to get the tubing out of the fitting because of the fit, but they still drip."

I can't state enough, the BitsPower Fittings are leaking now, even though nothing changed with them and they are sealing visually with two o-rings per fitting.

The Terminals are being replaced, but currently have good seals and are not leaking. That was the first issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Replace the o-rings


Is it common to replace o-rings on 3 new fittings all at once? If so, that seems counter-productive to buying something new.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> "*But the issue of getting leaks from the fittings is frustrating*. Even without pressure, the leaks are happening. I took all of the fittings off and checked the seals, and the o-rings are sealing very well (visually), and it is really hard to get the tubing out of the fitting because of the fit, but they still drip."
> 
> I can't state enough, the BitsPower Fittings are leaking now, even though nothing changed with them and they are sealing visually with two o-rings per fitting.
> 
> The Terminals are being replaced, but currently have good seals and are not leaking. That was the first issue.
> Is it common to replace o-rings on 3 new fittings all at once? If so, that seems counter-productive to buying something new.


Do you use a lubricant when you installed the tubing? You may have damaged the O Rings in the Process. Human error in computer building is common place due to wanting the computer to be complete in a Timely manner. (I would know)

The Cautious One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Did you strip the screw? Is it the fitting leaking or the plexi?
> 
> 
> 
> "*But the issue of getting leaks from the fittings is frustrating*. Even without pressure, the leaks are happening. I took all of the fittings off and checked the seals, and the o-rings are sealing very well (visually), and it is really hard to get the tubing out of the fitting because of the fit, but they still drip."
> 
> I can't state enough, the BitsPower Fittings are leaking now, even though nothing changed with them and they are sealing visually with two o-rings per fitting.
> 
> The Terminals are being replaced, but currently have good seals and are not leaking. That was the first issue.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Replace the o-rings
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is it common to replace o-rings on 3 new fittings all at once? If so, that seems counter-productive to buying something new.
Click to expand...

You have o-ring damage,a quick visual is not enough,remove the fittings and inspect them


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> With what?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85150#post_23937818
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85160#post_23937902
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85170#post_23938775
> 
> So far, one person referenced something to me, and two people answered his questions. I have stopped making threads on these forums because they seem to go unnoticed, but I figured this would be the exact spot I would get help. At least one person has tried.
> 
> As for an update, EK is replacing all 7 of the terminals that I currently have so that the terminal issue is fixed. But the issue of getting leaks from the fittings is frustrating. Even without pressure, the leaks are happening. I took all of the fittings off and checked the seals, and the o-rings are sealing very well (visually), and it is really hard to get the tubing out of the fitting because of the fit, but they still drip.
Click to expand...

In addition to what's already been suggested . . .

You're not by chance trying to use 12mm tube with fittings designed for 1/2" tube are you . . . . I should think that would leak due to not enough compression of the o rings, although visually it might seem fine.

Darlene


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have o-ring damage,a quick visual is not enough,remove the fittings and inspect them


replace the fittings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and be done with it.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Do you use a lubricant when you installed the tubing? You may have damaged the O Rings in the Process. Human error in computer building is common place due to wanting the computer to be complete in a Timely manner. (I would know)
> 
> The Cautious One


Hi Cautious. At a month and a half, there was no rush at all. I have taken extreme caution with these because i don't have the money to replace parts again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have o-ring damage,a quick visual is not enough,remove the fittings and inspect them


"But the issue of getting leaks from the fittings is frustrating. Even without pressure, the leaks are happening. *I took all of the fittings off and checked the seals, and the o-rings are sealing very well (visually)*, and it is really hard to get the tubing out of the fitting because of the fit, but they still drip."

At this point, I am not sure what I am typing wrong. Here is the super long version.

Steps taken. when I noticed the terminal leaking (Issue #1) I removed the terminals and corrected the issue. Checked the O-Rings there, and the o-Ring seating area, the inner seating lip was broken off. I alerted EK, and they are replacing all of them. Taken care to make sure they were seated properly, since plexi is see-thru, I took my time putting it back on and can see the visual seal all the way around each of the ports, and the o-ring has no kinks or issues. *Problem solved until new terminals arrive.*

Attempting to fill the loop once the terminal was repaired, once I turned on the pump the first time, I noticed a Bitspower fitting leaking, not the terminal, since the initial terminal was on GPU 1, and the fitting that is leaking is the bottom side of GPU2, which was not touched at all.

Next step, turn pump off, and drain loop. Remove all of the terminals (again) and fittings and inspect every fitting. There is no damage, nicks, crack, flat spots, pinches, or imperfections that I can find. I install the tubing back into the fitting, and use a flash light to look in and see that both o-rings in each fitting has a solid seal around each of the tubes. Once the top of each fitting is screwed back on, the spread of the o-ring is solid all the way around the entire tube, and the tube is extremely snug.

a little bit of water was wiped onto the tube as well as the oring before pushing them in every time, so that they were not pushed in on a dry o-ring, as this causes failures that are easily noted.

Out of all 10 fittings that are in use, all show a perfect seal around the entire tube and 3 of them have allowed water though without any obvious break in said visual seal. That is why it is confusing me.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> In addition to what's already been suggested . . .
> 
> You're not by chance trying to use 12mm tube with fittings designed for 1/2" tube are you . . . . I should think that would leak due to not enough compression of the o rings, although visually it might seem fine.
> 
> Darlene


16mm tube/16mm fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> replace the fittings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and be done with it.


Can I borrow $100 to replace them? At this point, it is looking like the only option.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Hi Cautious. At a month and a half, there was no rush at all. *I have taken extreme caution with these because i don't have the money to replace parts again.*
> "But the issue of getting leaks from the fittings is frustrating. Even without pressure, the leaks are happening. *I took all of the fittings off and checked the seals, and the o-rings are sealing very well (visually)*, and it is really hard to get the tubing out of the fitting because of the fit, but they still drip."
> 
> At this point, I am not sure what I am typing wrong. Here is the super long version.
> 
> Steps taken. when I noticed the terminal leaking (Issue #1) I removed the terminals and corrected the issue. Checked the O-Rings there, and the o-Ring seating area, the inner seating lip was broken off. I alerted EK, and they are replacing all of them. Taken care to make sure they were seated properly, since plexi is see-thru, I took my time putting it back on and can see the visual seal all the way around each of the ports, and the o-ring has no kinks or issues. *Problem solved until new terminals arrive.*
> 
> Attempting to fill the loop once the terminal was repaired, once I turned on the pump the first time, I noticed a Bitspower fitting leaking, not the terminal, since the initial terminal was on GPU 1, and the fitting that is leaking is the bottom side of GPU2, which was not touched at all.
> 
> Next step, turn pump off, and drain loop. Remove all of the terminals (again) and fittings and inspect every fitting. There is no damage, nicks, crack, flat spots, pinches, or imperfections that I can find. I install the tubing back into the fitting, and use a flash light to look in and see that both o-rings in each fitting has a solid seal around each of the tubes. Once the top of each fitting is screwed back on, the spread of the o-ring is solid all the way around the entire tube, and the tube is extremely snug.
> 
> a little bit of water was wiped onto the tube as well as the oring before pushing them in every time, so that they were not pushed in on a dry o-ring, as this causes failures that are easily noted.
> 
> Out of all 10 fittings that are in use, all show a perfect seal around the entire tube and 3 of them have allowed water though without any obvious break in said visual seal. That is why it is confusing me.


If all what you say is correct (And we believe you) Can you video a fill and pump turn on to show the leak in progress? I mean why not at this point? Since you have exhausted your options.

The Cautious ONe


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If all what you say is correct (And we believe you) Can you video a fill and pump turn on to show the leak in progress? I mean why not at this point? Since you have exhausted your options.
> 
> The Cautious ONe


I can do that in just a little bit. I will try to show everything I can at this point, I am almost tempted to take the GPU's out of the case and just run the loop on the table, but I need to get a hand since EVGA uses spring clips on their PCI lanes.

I will just be happy if it doesn't leak when I refill it, lol. I am frustrated and trying to take my precious time so that I don't get this wrong.

Thank you to everyone trying to help, by the way. I am just really frustrated at this point.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I can do that in just a little bit. I will try to show everything I can at this point, I am almost tempted to take the GPU's out of the case and just run the loop on the table, but I need to get a hand since EVGA uses spring clips on their PCI lanes.
> 
> I will just be happy if it doesn't leak when I refill it, lol. I am frustrated and trying to take my precious time so that I don't get this wrong.
> 
> Thank you to everyone trying to help, by the way. I am just really frustrated at this point.


It's Fine Mate







The good and great news is that Nothing is Fried from a Leak. Just a matter of time before the conflict is Resolved.

OCN will try to assist you in your time of Need. A video might help us "Visualize" something that your frustration is overlooking.

TCO


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Hi Cautious. At a month and a half, there was no rush at all. I have taken extreme caution with these because i don't have the money to replace parts again.
> "But the issue of getting leaks from the fittings is frustrating. Even without pressure, the leaks are happening. *I took all of the fittings off and checked the seals, and the o-rings are sealing very well (visually)*, and it is really hard to get the tubing out of the fitting because of the fit, but they still drip."
> 
> At this point, I am not sure what I am typing wrong. Here is the super long version.
> 
> Steps taken. when I noticed the terminal leaking (Issue #1) I removed the terminals and corrected the issue. Checked the O-Rings there, and the o-Ring seating area, the inner seating lip was broken off. I alerted EK, and they are replacing all of them. Taken care to make sure they were seated properly, since plexi is see-thru, I took my time putting it back on and can see the visual seal all the way around each of the ports, and the o-ring has no kinks or issues. *Problem solved until new terminals arrive.*
> 
> Attempting to fill the loop once the terminal was repaired, once I turned on the pump the first time, I noticed a Bitspower fitting leaking, not the terminal, since the initial terminal was on GPU 1, and the fitting that is leaking is the bottom side of GPU2, which was not touched at all.
> 
> Next step, turn pump off, and drain loop. Remove all of the terminals (again) and fittings and inspect every fitting. There is no damage, nicks, crack, flat spots, pinches, or imperfections that I can find. I install the tubing back into the fitting, and use a flash light to look in and see that both o-rings in each fitting has a solid seal around each of the tubes. Once the top of each fitting is screwed back on, the spread of the o-ring is solid all the way around the entire tube, and the tube is extremely snug.
> 
> a little bit of water was wiped onto the tube as well as the oring before pushing them in every time, so that they were not pushed in on a dry o-ring, as this causes failures that are easily noted.
> 
> Out of all 10 fittings that are in use, all show a perfect seal around the entire tube and 3 of them have allowed water though without any obvious break in said visual seal. That is why it is confusing me.


Are you sure the leak is with a fitting and not a terminal? Its hard to tell where a leak is coming from on GPU's because of all the terminals and fittings. So many failure points in such a small area. Try taking off all the terminals with tubes and fittings between them still attached and installing the whole thing upside down. This may give you a better a view of the leak. I would also try swapping the leaky fitting with a good fitting to see if the leak moves with that fitting to verify the problem is with the fitting and not with the port.

I feel your pain. I like the aesthetics of running tubes and fittings between the cards, but it can be such a pain. I think that is why the terminal bridges are so popular. So much easier to install.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Are you sure the leak is with a fitting and not a terminal? Its hard to tell where a leak is coming from on GPU's because of all the terminals and fittings. So many failure points in such a small area. Try taking off all the terminals with tubes and fittings between them still attached and installing the whole thing upside down. This may give you a better a view of the leak. I would also try swapping the leaky fitting with a good fitting to see if the leak moves with that fitting to verify the problem is with the fitting and not with the port.
> 
> I feel your pain. I like the aesthetics of running tubes and fittings between the cards, but it can be such a pain. I think that is why the terminal bridges are so popular. So much easier to install.


I actually did remove the terminals to fix the first issue, so that I wouldn't disturb the fittings because of how tight they were. Now I have everything out of the case, and on the table, and I just pulled the bottom EK terminal and replaced it with an acetal one. I had 7 acetal terminals, but go figure that I can not find them anywhere right now.

If I can find them, i will replace all of the plexi terminals with the acetal terminals, as I know they seal very well and don't crack like the plexi ones are. for now, here is another picture of another terminal. Be aware before I post this one: *THIS Terminal NEVER leaked.* as I was replacing the fittings, I noticed the same issue occur with this one that happened in the first leak, so to counteract this problem, I am replacing it PRIOR to reinstalling the loop.

This terminal was the Bottom GPU, which I had no issues from at all.

 

The wall around the inner o-ring seating area is too thin and without any touching just slips out of place. The channel is cut much closer to the inside than the acetal terminals are.

Quick addition: just found 2 more Acetal terminals. here is a comparison of the o-ring channels and the difference of the overall thickness of the inner wall. I will find the 4th, and rule out the terminals 100% while checking the fittings at the same time.


----------



## szeged

the fun finally arrives.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like it really could be the terminal, also might want to double check if there could be a hairline crack from tightening the fittings onto said terminals


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like it really could be the terminal, also might want to double check if there could be a hairline crack from tightening the fittings onto said terminals


I will check, but like I said, that terminal, nor the fittings attached to that terminal, ever leaked. I noticed it after reinstalling everything dry and just wanted to use it as an example.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I will check, but like I said, that terminal, nor the fittings attached to that terminal, ever leaked. I noticed it after reinstalling everything dry and just wanted to use it as an example.


I know you want to run the semi-parallel setup, but if you are still having leaking issues, can you try hooking the 4 cards up in a series with 1 fitting between each card and then see if it still leaks? Just asking because with a series, there is only 1 place for the water to go and never has any bit of restriction at all and should flow right past that area. It would also take you from 5 fittings in between to 3 and less chance of something leaking since you are taking 40% of the problem area away.

Is there any imperfections in any of the fitting areas? a small little dent in the acrylic or little anything can be a big problem when trying to seal something. Maybe run something over the sealing areas to kinda polish them back to perfectly smooth or light weight sanding ( I'm not really meaning to sand them, just to get rid of any bumps or anything sticking out that would cause them not to seal correct ) .. Even a cloth with some polishing compound to help them seal? Try moving the o-rings to different areas as some maybe a little thicker than others due to manufacturing flaws.

Have you tried to use new piece's of tube between them? Maybe the tubes are having the issues due to them going on and off many times?

Also, like TCO said, do not try to put anything with o-rings together DRY. use something to lubricate them. It will allow them to seat properly and not bind up, even if you are 100% sure that once put together they are visually sealing. Visually isn't good enough when it comes to pressure.

Just trying to help bud, I too know how frustrating things can be


----------



## wermad

Silicone grease a must to lube the orings and keep them in place.

Any one running af140s on a 140mm rad? Is it better to use sp120 hp (I have a bunch) with adapters? Sp140s come only w/ led's unfortunately







.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I know you want to run the semi-parallel setup, but if you are still having leaking issues, can you try hooking the 4 cards up in a series with 1 fitting between each card and then see if it still leaks? Just asking because with a series, there is only 1 place for the water to go and never has any bit of restriction at all and should flow right past that area. It would also take you from 5 fittings in between to 3 and less chance of something leaking since you are taking 40% of the problem area away.
> 
> Is there any imperfections in any of the fitting areas? a small little dent in the acrylic or little anything can be a big problem when trying to seal something. Maybe run something over the sealing areas to kinda polish them back to perfectly smooth or light weight sanding ( I'm not really meaning to sand them, just to get rid of any bumps or anything sticking out that would cause them not to seal correct ) .. Even a cloth with some polishing compound to help them seal? Try moving the o-rings to different areas as some maybe a little thicker than others due to manufacturing flaws.
> 
> Have you tried to use new piece's of tube between them? Maybe the tubes are having the issues due to them going on and off many times?
> 
> Also, like TCO said, do not try to put anything with o-rings together DRY. use something to lubricate them. It will allow them to seat properly and not bind up, even if you are 100% sure that once put together they are visually sealing. Visually isn't good enough when it comes to pressure.
> 
> Just trying to help bud, I too know how frustrating things can be


Oh, for the love of god... I meant dry as NOT in the water loop, before filling it, not that I pushed the connector tube through the o-ring or install it dry.... How many times do I need to repeat every statement I make...

*
I DO NOT PUSH THE RIGID TUBE THROUGH THE OR INSTALL O-RING DRY. PLEASE TAKE THIS AS A BLANKET STATEMENT FOR THE FUTURE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*

I just replaced the fitting and even replaced the piece of tube, and it is still leaking. Didn't even turn the pump on, just opened the top terminal, and put just enough water to get the tubes filled, and it leaked.

I am going to replace these bitspower fittings and find something else.

After replacing the Terminal, the terminal o-rings, and even the one connector tubes, which is where the leak was coming from, it is still leaking. I will try series like you suggested, and toss that fitting (the one giving the current issue) off to the side for now, until I can get replacements.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Silicone grease a must to lube the orings and keep them in place.
> 
> Any one running af140s on a 140mm rad? Is it better to use sp120 hp (I have a bunch) with adapters? Sp140s come only w/ led's unfortunately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I put AF140's on my H110 and they were great and way quieter than the stock fans that came with it. They push a good amount of air IMO. I have one on my 540 air now as exhaust and works great. I have it set to 90% now, but on my H110 I think I was using 80% on them.

Oops, my bad, I have a sp140 1440rpm on my exhaust and that's what I had on the H110. Not sure what the exact difference is on the AF vs SP in terms of rpm's and cfm?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I actually did remove the terminals to fix the first issue, so that I wouldn't disturb the fittings because of how tight they were. Now I have everything out of the case, and on the table, and I just pulled the bottom EK terminal and replaced it with an acetal one. I had 7 acetal terminals, but go figure that I can not find them anywhere right now.
> 
> If I can find them, i will replace all of the plexi terminals with the acetal terminals, as I know they seal very well and don't crack like the plexi ones are. for now, here is another picture of another terminal. Be aware before I post this one: *THIS Terminal NEVER leaked.* as I was replacing the fittings, I noticed the same issue occur with this one that happened in the first leak, so to counteract this problem, I am replacing it PRIOR to reinstalling the loop.
> 
> This terminal was the Bottom GPU, which I had no issues from at all.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wall around the inner o-ring seating area is too thin and without any touching just slips out of place. The channel is cut much closer to the inside than the acetal terminals are.
> 
> Quick addition: just found 2 more Acetal terminals. here is a comparison of the o-ring channels and the difference of the overall thickness of the inner wall. I will find the 4th, and rule out the terminals 100% while checking the fittings at the same time.


grab some silicone grease. It is a must for those small o rings.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Please tell me this is a really bad joke from bitspower...



I haven't even turned the pump on.


----------



## wermad

Make sure you didn't tear the o-ring. Did you sand/file the tube end to make sure it didn't have sharp edges (chamfered)?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

It is chamfered using the Monsoon bending kit chamfer tool for verification. There is no edges on any of the pieces of tubing.

This is the third fitting I have lost TODAY. I am really just ready to sell this am move on, lol.

Also, when I say this is the third fitting I have lost today, I mean that this is 3 I am down from being able to use because of these stupid leaks. I haven't even had a chance to power on the system YET.


----------



## wermad

Is it the compression or the friction ones? Make sure your cards are secured right. If one is off, it may bend the tube and start leaks. I typically do my bridge/sli-links first and then do the slot thumbscrews


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Silicone grease a must to lube the orings and keep them in place.
> 
> Any one running af140s on a 140mm rad? Is it better to use sp120 hp (I have a bunch) with adapters? *Sp140s come only w/ led's unfortunately*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


For now, yes.

Speaking of 140mm fans though, pre-production EK Vardar F3-140ER:























































Comparing to FF5-120:










The blades are slightly different also.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it the compression or the friction ones? Make sure your cards are secured right. If one is off, it may bend the tube and start leaks. I typically do my bridge/sli-links first and then do the slot thumbscrews


http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-carbon-black-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html 16mm OD Enhanced Multi-link rigid with dual orings, I guess it would be considered Fricition.. This one wasn't leaking previously, and I haven't touched it. I removed the top piece and the one to its rights, so I am at a loss, and have lost faith in these bits power fittings for this build. They work perfectly fine in my other build, but will not work here.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For now, yes.
> 
> Speaking of 140mm fans though, pre-production EK Vardar F3-140ER:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing to FF5-120:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blades are slightly different also.


How decent is the af140 or am I better off w/ sp120s hp + adapters?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-carbon-black-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html 16mm OD Enhanced Multi-link rigid with dual orings, I guess it would be considered Fricition.. This one wasn't leaking previously, and I haven't touched it. I removed the top piece and the one to its rights, so I am at a loss, and have lost faith in these bits power fittings for this build. They work perfectly fine in my other build, but will not work here.


Are any of your cards sagging/drooping a bit? I used some koolance adjustable sli fittings once w/ dual 690s on koolance blocks. I went too generous on the silicone grease and a slight nudge on one of the cards caused the links to move a bit and a couple of small droplets came running out.

Try to pull the fittings and test them outside your rigs and if you can pull the card from the block and test those too.

btw, I think these are compression hard line fittings.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How decent is the af140 or am I better off w/ sp120s hp + adapters?


Don't buy anything now with Computex 10 days away. I haven't heard anything specifically but got a lot of "wait till you see what we have lined up for Computex" replies.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Silicone grease a must to lube the orings and keep them in place.
> 
> Any one running af140s on a 140mm rad? Is it better to use sp120 hp (I have a bunch) with adapters? Sp140s come only w/ led's unfortunately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I am setting up two AF140's on a Koolance 280 rad this weekend and will let you know how it turns out. Going to test in push and pull config to see which is better. The Koolance 280 has high FPI so I am skeptical how it will perform.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For now, yes.
> 
> Speaking of 140mm fans though, pre-production EK Vardar F3-140ER:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing to FF5-120:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blades are slightly different also.


Gotta be honest, the 140mm fans look rather lacking...
Like there needs to be a couple more blades, or the blades need to be wider to fill in the gaps.
it looks like all they did was take the blades off the 120s then extend the frame and widen the motor housing.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-carbon-black-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html 16mm OD Enhanced Multi-link rigid with dual orings, I guess it would be considered Fricition.. This one wasn't leaking previously, and I haven't touched it. I removed the top piece and the one to its rights, so I am at a loss, and have lost faith in these bits power fittings for this build. They work perfectly fine in my other build, but will not work here.


I known you mention is a 16 mm tube but what exactly brand and model did you got? The only thing I can imagine is the tube is not exactly 16 mm or even without noticing some of the orings are damaged and ergo the leak. I would grab those 3 fittings that are leaking and replace the orings just to be sure....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't buy anything now with Computex 10 days away. I haven't heard anything specifically but got a lot of "wait till you see what we have lined up for Computex" replies.


Cool









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I am setting up two AF140's on a Koolance 280 rad this weekend and will let you know how it turns out. Going to test in push and pull config to see which is better. The Koolance 280 has high FPI so I am skeptical how it will perform.


Thanks for the input, I appreciate the info on your experience







. +1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I known you mention is a 16 mm tube but what exactly brand and model did you got? The only thing I can imagine is the tube is not exactly 16 mm or even without noticing some of the orings are damaged and ergo the leak. I would grab those 3 fittings that are leaking and replace the orings just to be sure....


This. 5/8 imperial is actually 15.88mm. I tested this size tube on a 16mm od ek friction fitting, w/ a slight movement it easily leaked.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For now, yes.
> 
> Speaking of 140mm fans though, pre-production EK Vardar F3-140ER:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing to FF5-120:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blades are slightly different also.


OH sweet Mother Mary!! If my AF140's don't work out these might be the ticket!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I known you mention is a 16 mm tube but what exactly brand and model did you got? The only thing I can imagine is the tube is not exactly 16 mm or even without noticing some of the orings are damaged and ergo the leak. I would grab those 3 fittings that are leaking and replace the orings just to be sure....


It is the Monsoon Hartline Acrylic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How decent is the af140 or am I better off w/ sp120s hp + adapters?
> Are any of your cards sagging/drooping a bit? I used some koolance adjustable sli fittings once w/ dual 690s on koolance blocks. I went too generous on the silicone grease and a slight nudge on one of the cards caused the links to move a bit and a couple of small droplets came running out.
> 
> Try to pull the fittings and test them outside your rigs and if you can pull the card from the block and test those too.
> 
> btw, I think these are compression hard line fittings.


No sagging or drooping on any cards. Currently testing the loop, with the pump, after replacing thay last leader again.

The pump is running low ram, strictly because it is a pwm pump with only a power signal.

I think I will stick with D5 Varios pumps after this. I really like those.

Let's cross our fingers and hope it doesn't spring any more leaks. And am going to run a pwm extraction to my TH10A and connect it to the aquaero so I can control the pwm feature without the motherboard.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I known you mention is a 16 mm tube but what exactly brand and model did you got? The only thing I can imagine is the tube is not exactly 16 mm or even without noticing some of the orings are damaged and ergo the leak. I would grab those 3 fittings that are leaking and replace the orings just to be sure....
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This. 5/8 imperial is actually 15.88mm. I tested this size tube on a 16mm od ek friction fitting, w/ a slight movement it easily leaked.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> It is the Monsoon Hartline Acrylic.
> No sagging or drooping on any cards. Currently testing the loop, with the pump, after replacing thay last leader again.
> 
> The pump is running low ram, strictly because it is a pwm pump with only a power signal.
> 
> I think I will stick with D5 Varios pumps after this. I really like those.
> 
> Let's cross our fingers and hope it doesn't spring any more leaks. And am going to run a pwm extraction to my TH10A and connect it to the aquaero so I can control the pwm feature without the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Are you using Monsoon 5/8 od hard tube? If this is the case, see my post quoted here. Its typically recommended to stick with either metric (ie Bitstpower, Ek, etc) or imperial (ie Monsoon, Primochill, etc).

The bending kit don't matter tbh, the tools can be used for either. But the tube od is very important it matches the type and size of your fittings. Hopefully this is not the case


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Are you using Monsoon 5/8 od hard tube? If this is the case, see my post quoted here. Its typically recommended to stick with either metric (ie Bitstpower, Ek, etc) or imperial (ie Monsoon, Primochill, etc).
> 
> The bending kit don't matter tbh, the tools can be used for either. But the tube od is very important it matches the type and size of your fittings. Hopefully this is not the case


I kid you not:
5/8 Monsoon tubing works perfectly with Bitspower 16mm multilink fittings. Like they were made for each other.
But:
I tried 16mm Bitspower Crystal Link tubing with same Bitspower 16mm Multilink Enh. fittings and they were not compatible. Hopefully that has been fixed. The packaging on the crystal link tubing was surprisingly basic and I don't trust where I got them from necessarily (PPCS) so who knows. With the Monsoon tubing there's no question where it's come from.


----------



## wermad

My testing showed leaking with the slight disturbance. I wouldn't risk it unless the orings are thick. I'd didn't work with EK 16mm friction so I abondoned this route. I don't recommend it and it would be your gamble tbh.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

**my mobile phone ghosted me ... on my own reply... lol**
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Are you using Monsoon 5/8 od hard tube? If this is the case, see my post quoted here. Its typically recommended to stick with either metric (ie Bitstpower, Ek, etc) or imperial (ie Monsoon, Primochill, etc).
> 
> The bending kit don't matter tbh, the tools can be used for either. But the tube od is very important it matches the type and size of your fittings. Hopefully this is not the case


I am using the Monsoon 1/2" x 5/8" Hardline (sorry about the Hartline, was on mobile earlier) but the OD is supposedly 16mm which would be the same as the bitspower. I will go ahead and order enough crystal link 16mm OD pieces to make my eyes bleed, in hopes that this issue doesn't come back up, and I will replace them once the new plexi Terminals arrive.

I did just find something interesting.. I connected the pump's pwm to the Aquaero, and it didn't turn on with both systems powered.. I shut everything down, and connected the PWM to the x99 header motherboard header, and the pump went up to 75%, immediately clearing most of the trapped air. Does anyone have enough experience here, since you all have been incredible through this, to tell me why this one pump won't work with PWM, when the other three connections work perfect? I have all of the TH10A radiator fans connected to the Aquaero through PWM (Thanks to Darleen's suggestion many months ago) and they all work great. but when this pump is connected, its a no go scenario.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My testing showed leaking with the slight disturbance. I wouldn't risk it unless the orings are thick. I'd didn't work with EK 16mm friction so I abondoned this route. I don't recommend it and it would be your gamble tbh.


My original intention was to go with Monsoon for everything, with the UV cure tubing.. but the fittings are too much right now, and I got all of these ununsed fittings for a good price. What fittings would you suggest for the main setup? I have all monsoon rigid and mostly bitspower fittings in the TH10A and have had absolutely no issues, except for one I cause myself by cutting a tube too short.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Please tell me this is a really bad joke from bitspower...
> 
> I haven't even turned the pump on.


Those are actually compression type fittings. They should have 2 o-rings, one lines the inside of the push-in base, and one in the compression cap "collar" that threads down onto the push-in base. I have like 30 o-rings sitting around for these, because sometimes you can damage them a little bit while inserting the tubing into the fitting, and it's fine until you pull the tube back out and then they *can* start leaking on you after that (never had that happened to me, but I change them out if I think I jabbed one).

The Enh. multilink fittings are super simple and I'd be genuinely surprised if one somehow failed after having just worked properly without it being o-ring related. If the tubing isn't square/flat ended or has a lot of lateral pressure on it it can cause leaking. If the tubing isn't fully inserted into both o-rings it can cause leaking.

It *does* actually make a more secure fit if you place the collar and oring around the tubing before securing the tubing into the base, and then tightening the collar down onto the fitting. Getting the orings and tubing wet helps.

Monsoon 5/8" and BP 16mm Multilink Enh. are what I've used on the two hardline builds I've done (which I repeatedly retubed trying to get better at bending)

The main reason I have ever had leaks when testing this combination was because of not having the tube all the way plumbed into both orings of the mulitilink enhanced fittings.
Issues with the edges of the acrylic tubing are to be concerned about, too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I did just find something interesting.. I connected the pump's pwm to the Aquaero, and it didn't turn on with both systems powered.. I shut everything down, and connected the PWM to the x99 header motherboard header, and the pump went up to 75%, immediately clearing most of the trapped air. Does anyone have enough experience here, since you all have been incredible through this, to tell me why this one pump won't work with PWM, when the other three connections work perfect? I have all of the TH10A radiator fans connected to the Aquaero through PWM (Thanks to Darleen's suggestion many months ago) and they all work great. but when this pump is connected, its a no go scenario.


For whatever technical reason the standard pwm D5 doesn't conform to the standard pwm type the aquaero uses. AC sells D5s with proper pwm signals but it's kinda overrated having pwm capability unless using multiple pumps, imo.


----------



## wermad

Tube also has a slight varience. The 5/8 od tube may be slightly smaller due to manufacturing tolerances. From memory, I saw as low as 15.78mm but typically 15.82-15.88. Still, water can breach the smallest of gaps mind you.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the fun finally arrives.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You went with the right blocks, they look great!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> My original intention was to go with Monsoon for everything, with the UV cure tubing.. but the fittings are too much right now, and I got all of these ununsed fittings for a good price. What fittings would you suggest for the main setup? I have all monsoon rigid and mostly bitspower fittings in the TH10A and have had absolutely no issues, except for one I cause myself by cutting a tube too short.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tube also has a slight varience. The 5/8 od tube may be slightly smaller due to manufacturing tolerances. From memory, I saw as low as 15.78mm but typically 15.82-15.88. Still, water can breach the smallest of gaps mind you.


This. 5/8 = 15.875 mm so is not exactly 16 mm. It might be this is the cause. Just to be sure we are covering all the bases here, I known you probably did this and known this, but as eletro comments above the multi-link have two oring the internal one and the one in the cap. Make sure both oring are getting around the tube.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Both are fully seated as tight as I can get them. I have the loop fully completed and it is working wonderful now. Seriously... Thank you all for the patience. I will get a lot of the bitspower 16mm crystal links so that when I put the new terminals on, I can change that out.

I have the pwm signal running off the cpu fan header, since I have the h100 for the cpu and don't need the signal for thay as much. Everything seems to be good for now.


----------



## rioja

a little old school - EK top for dual DDC with 50mm reservoir











came with mountings in 5.25 bay


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> My original intention was to go with Monsoon for everything, with the UV cure tubing.. but the fittings are too much right now, and I got all of these ununsed fittings for a good price. What fittings would you suggest for the main setup? I have all monsoon rigid and mostly bitspower fittings in the TH10A and have had absolutely no issues, except for one I cause myself by cutting a tube too short.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tube also has a slight varience. The 5/8 od tube may be slightly smaller due to manufacturing tolerances. From memory, I saw as low as 15.78mm but typically 15.82-15.88. Still, water can breach the smallest of gaps mind you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This. 5/8 = 15.875 mm so is not exactly 16 mm. It might be this is the cause. Just to be sure we are covering all the bases here, I known you probably did this and known this, but as eletro comments above the multi-link have two oring the internal one and the one in the cap. Make sure both oring are getting around the tube.
Click to expand...

The 16mm enhanced multi link that he's using actually have 2 o rings that the tube goes thru under the cap.

Check the pics on PPCs from the link he posted:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-carbon-black-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html

What concerns me is that from the pic he posted of the leak, it appears that the cap is completely screwed down against the body to where no additional o ring compression is possible . . . . I would expect that there should be a slight gap once the o rings are sufficiently compressed against a proper diameter tube.

It appears that the tube OD is too small, or not long enough to be pushed completely thru the inner o ring.

D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Scarlet-Tech Shall we take out the Swim Trunks?









TCO


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't forget to post in the club!
> 
> For those in the Us that have ordered from aquatuning.us, what's the difference among shipping (speed???):
> 
> ups express saver
> ups aquatuning usa prime
> ups express std
> 
> Ups express std is only $4 more then saver, so I feel this is good value if its faster in delivery?


FYI: Using UPS Express Saver to Florida I've gotten each of my three separate orders in two days.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 16mm enhanced multi link that he's using actually have 2 o rings that the tube goes thru under the cap.
> 
> Check the pics on PPCs from the link he posted:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-carbon-black-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html
> 
> What concerns me is that from the pic he posted of the leak, it appears that the cap is completely screwed down against the body to where no additional o ring compression is possible . . . . I would expect that there should be a slight gap once the o rings are sufficiently compressed against a proper diameter tube.
> 
> It appears that the tube OD is too small, or not long enough to be pushed completely thru the inner o ring.
> 
> D.


I will get the bitspower tube and see if it makes a difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Scarlet-Tech Shall we take out the Swim Trunks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I have my goggles and snorkel... What time you want to jump in?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I will get the bitspower tube and see if it makes a difference.
> I have my goggles and snorkel... What time you want to jump in?


After the Pump Dives Head 1st








TCO


----------



## wermad

^^^ Thanks dude









I may go w/ a "hybrid" setup of mainly traditional tube and some (long) runs of hard. I'll more inclined to go w/ the bp c47s for the simplicity and I hear they're tight as a mutha. Will go w/ nicely with my bp 3/8x5/8 fittings. I'll be using f-t-f adapters to link compression to hard line fittings (12mm hard lines).


----------



## Hambone07si

Yo TCO, did you try that sys prep by chance?? I have finished painting my older 2 rads and now want to flush them out for a while before going into the new case. I can flush with distilled only and be good I'm sure, but if that sys prep did anything good for you, I may add some in for good measures. Can't really hurt any, just want to clean them out from dust or anything from laying around for a bit. I have no bad coolant issues with either of them since they always ran distilled to start with.

Was just curious??

Thanks,
Hambone

@ Scarlet-Tech, I suggest you pick up at least a cheap pair of digital calipers. You can switch them from imperial to metric and measure things out so you know for sure, not just going off what the package says. What the package says and what you get can be WAY OFF sometimes. People get lazy, tools wear down, people wont change tools, they wont measure every run because outside smoking, they say screw it because they think they are under paid and don't care, and so on bud. Get some calipers so you know what you are working with. Would be your safest bet especially if you are mixing brands of stuff like that. Hardline tubing is a whole different world than soft tube and you need to be a lot more careful about everything.

Just figured I'd tell ya, calipers go for about $10 for a cheap digital pair. Your gpu's go for a LOT MORE and are worth every penny of that $10. I personally have some $200 calipers as I am a CNC programmer and former CNC machinist. Those have been with me for quite a few years and I wouldn't sell my pair off even if someone offered me $300 for them. I trust my tools and they have never let me down.


----------



## XFaega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Please tell me this is a really bad joke from bitspower...
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't even turned the pump on.


I'ved stopped using Bitspower rotary parts due to so many leaks. So far I have been really impressed with Swiftech rotary parts. No leaks yet.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> After the Pump Dives Head 1st
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


O.O The Joke keeps going........... I am not laughing...



Sad thing... I specifically tested this card before putting the block on it, with this same set up... I don't even know what to say at this point.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XFaega*
> 
> I'ved stopped using Bitspower rotary parts due to so many leaks. So far I have been really impressed with Swiftech rotary parts. No leaks yet.


I bought 4 Bitspower barbs, and was excited to test a system with them, and found out the hard way that 3/8 wasn't 3/8... the PrimoChill tube is incredibly tight on any other fitting, but just like a hot dog down a hallway with bitspower.. I am not entirely 100% sold on them just yet.


----------



## Hambone07si

Ok, you guys ready to laugh?? HAHAHAHAHA
















I win the funniest flushing setup of the night!!!


----------



## wermad

DD res, sweet


----------



## jon666

as;dklfjkl wpe[ jiojioasjikldfklasd...all I could think to post other then swearing. Rig started leaking. Home Depot failed me. Partially my fault, powered down for a couple of days. Solved by restarting, and running through stress tests. Ozone smell has disappeared, no more water, heat from rig appears to have filled in gaps. Willl not power down again until I find better soft tubing. Looking for advice on something that can handle temp changes no problem. Using barbs with worm clamps. Built my rig with watercooling for overclocking and gaming so any suggestion is welcome. Glad distilled is safe ish for electronics. SOB. Might have to ditch ivy, and my dual 7870's soon.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> DD res, sweet


Is that the brand of this res? I bought this so long ago, bout the time you bought the 480's off me and couldn't remember what brand it was, or if it came on the tech bench that I just pulled it off of? Glad it came back tho after 4 years. This one just looks sweet with the screws on both ends. Looks like a Pippper Booomer ( I dare type that word on the internet LOL, don't want no federallys bustin in my door







) .. I think I'm going to add it into my X9 build tho some how. I'll find a cool way if I have to make some custom mounts or something.

I really need to start a build log tho. I haven't done one yet on here so not really sure how to go about it







maybe you can PM me with some details on how to set it up, and then I can post into the X9 thread too with the custom work I'm doing to this badass X9








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> as;dklfjkl wpe[ jiojioasjikldfklasd...all I could think to post other then swearing. Rig started leaking. Home Depot failed me. Partially my fault, powered down for a couple of days. Solved by restarting, and running through stress tests. Ozone smell has disappeared, no more water, heat from rig appears to have filled in gaps. Willl not power down again until I find better soft tubing. Looking for advice on something that can handle temp changes no problem. Using barbs with worm clamps. Built my rig with watercooling for overclocking and gaming so any suggestion is welcome. Glad distilled is safe ish for electronics. SOB. Might have to ditch ivy, and my dual 7870's soon.


If you want a tube that real strong and will barely kink at all even if you try, the EK matte black tube that comes in their kits is pretty badass. I haven't seen any other tube that even comes close to how tough that stuff is. I currently am running PrimoChill 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD and that is really good too, but not as tough as the EK tube is. The PrimoChill is great, don't get me wrong, but that EK stuff just seems to be on a whole different level IMHO. The wall thickness is thick too.

Just stay away from a 1/16" wall thickness and go with 1/8" wall thickness. 1/16" wall will kink if your coolant gets warm if you have a tight bend. 1/8" will not in the same scenario. You can stretch 3/8" ID over 7/16" barbs and not use anything to clamp them if you want a nice clean look with just tube going right up to your blocks pretty much. It will not come off a good style barb, metal not plastic barbs tho. I use compression fittings on my current build, but always used the 1/16" larger barb size over tube ID size and never once had a leak or tube pop off in 10 years of water cooling.

Hope this helps you out. If you want, I can post a picture of the EK tube I'm talking about and the PrimoChill tube I use now, side by side so you can see the quality. I also have some 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD that I don't really like because of the thinner walls. Can give you a good "visual idea" to see. Let me know


----------



## wermad

Danger Den?:


----------



## kitg90

Hey guys does that look like corrosion on my blocks? Got the gtx 780ti matrix plat block from ekwb.

Been using pastel from EK as well.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Hey guys does that look like corrosion on my blocks? Got the gtx 780ti matrix plat block from ekwb.
> 
> Been using pastel from EK as well.


it definitely looks like it could be spots of corrosion. You said you were using pastels, was it pre-mixed or concentrate (not sure if they sell the separate, I just ordered concentrate today).


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> it definitely looks like it could be spots of corrosion. You said you were using pastels, was it pre-mixed or concentrate (not sure if they sell the separate, I just ordered concentrate today).


Hey it was concentrate but I used distilled to mix it.

Any chance could be nickel flaking? Long shot.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Hey it was concentrate but I used distilled to mix it.
> 
> Any chance could be nickel flaking? Long shot.


I'm actually wondering if it's just the nano particles caught between the nickel and acrylic?
what color pastel were you using?


----------



## wermad

Nickel flaking you would see copper. Looks ore like some tarnishing. A clean and some cleaner or polisher will bring the luster back. Though over time, it will go back to this especially with colored or additives in your liquid.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nickel flaking you would see copper. Looks ore like some tarnishing. A clean and some cleaner or polisher will bring the luster back. Though over time, it will go back to this especially with colored or additives in your liquid.


Tarnishing? Anything I should be worried about? Want to use this gpu in my new rig and now wondering if I need to order a new block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> I'm actually wondering if it's just the nano particles caught between the nickel and acrylic?
> what color pastel were you using?


Was using the red pastel.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Tarnishing? Anything I should be worried about? Want to use this gpu in my new rig and now wondering if I need to order a new block.
> Was using the red pastel.


red pastel was my bet. It does look like some leftovers of red pastel. Don't think is corrosion but you can always open it to clean it...


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> red pastel was my bet. It does look like some leftovers of red pastel. Don't think is corrosion but you can always open it to clean it...


Yea I'll try and open it up later and have a look. Will have to read up on how to clean the block as well.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Yea I'll try and open it up later and have a look. Will have to read up on how to clean the block as well.


NO! that is how you void a warranty. Contact EKWB at [email protected] or submit a support ticket through the website. The only reason you should open the Block is if you don't want the warranty.

I will warn you, I removed my block tops to switch from Acetal to plexi, and the o-eing is God awful to replace if it jumps the track that it is in.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> NO! that is how you void a warranty. Contact EKWB at [email protected] or submit a support ticket through the website. The only reason you should open the Block is if you don't want the warranty.
> 
> I will warn you, I removed my block tops to switch from Acetal to plexi, and the o-eing is God awful to replace if it jumps the track that it is in.


Guess I'll drop ekwb an email then when I get home currently out having some lunch. Cheers


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Guess I'll drop ekwb an email then when I get home currently out having some lunch. Cheers


You couldn't have taken the Block apart at lunch anyway, so it doesn't hurt to wait :-D. When you look at the base of the Block, you should see the ek sticker underneath it to show if it was tampered with or not. If they agree to RMA it, it only costs you a couple of dollars compared to possibly buying a new one or trying to get a new gasket.


----------



## SteezyTN

Now it's time for another radiator, or two more fans for push pull on my RX240. I have my two Titan X's running at 1455mhz (1.174v and 1.237v) and a 4770k at 4.5 (1.3v), and according to my XSPc G1/4 temp sensor, the maximum water temp is at 40c. That radiator is the EX240, and it's the rad that the GPU water comes to. Maybe two more fans to the RX240 will drop it a couple degrees. The top card is about 49c max, but I would like to have lower temps. Any ideas. The temp in my room is roughly 25c.
It is however much lower than my 780 SLi setup.


----------



## wermad

Ek support encourages opening the block to inspect it. The sticker is for leak testing. Same sticker is on their CPU blocks yet you get jet plates you can change requiring to open the block.


----------



## cgull

isn't voiding the warranty a prerequisite for this website?.. I thought overclocking was voiding the warranty


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Yo TCO, did you try that sys prep by chance?? I have finished painting my older 2 rads and now want to flush them out for a while before going into the new case. I can flush with distilled only and be good I'm sure, but if that sys prep did anything good for you, I may add some in for good measures. Can't really hurt any, just want to clean them out from dust or anything from laying around for a bit. I have no bad coolant issues with either of them since they always ran distilled to start with.
> 
> Was just curious??
> 
> Thanks,
> Hambone
> 
> @ Scarlet-Tech, I suggest you pick up at least a cheap pair of digital calipers. You can switch them from imperial to metric and measure things out so you know for sure, not just going off what the package says. What the package says and what you get can be WAY OFF sometimes. People get lazy, tools wear down, people wont change tools, they wont measure every run because outside smoking, they say screw it because they think they are under paid and don't care, and so on bud. Get some calipers so you know what you are working with. Would be your safest bet especially if you are mixing brands of stuff like that. Hardline tubing is a whole different world than soft tube and you need to be a lot more careful about everything.
> 
> Just figured I'd tell ya, calipers go for about $10 for a cheap digital pair. Your gpu's go for a LOT MORE and are worth every penny of that $10. *I personally have some $200 calipers as I am a CNC programmer and former CNC machinist. Those have been with me for quite a few years and I wouldn't sell my pair off even if someone offered me $300 for them.* I trust my tools and they have never let me down.


Only if they are calibrated weekly.......I come from an engineering background,verniers need regular upkeep to perform accurately,Im currently making servo motors for SEM/Heidenheim,tolerances well into the micron's,climate controlled machine shop...you get the picture...we drop a gauge and it goes in the bin kind of place Cost in kinda immaterial for them,the cheaper ones perform just as well as the expensive ones....I totally understand tool-porn tho,I had a serious Hilti addiction at one time.

As for the orings...If they are wet then its VERY difficult to spot water seeping as they are already wet,the waterpath is already formed and wont be visible against the acrylic.


----------



## p5ych00n5

So I went from this........


To this......


To finally this......


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Now it's time for another radiator, or two more fans for push pull on my RX240. I have my two Titan X's running at 1455mhz (1.174v and 1.237v) and a 4770k at 4.5 (1.3v), and according to my XSPc G1/4 temp sensor, the maximum water temp is at 40c. That radiator is the EX240, and it's the rad that the GPU water comes to. Maybe two more fans to the RX240 will drop it a couple degrees. The top card is about 49c max, but I would like to have lower temps. Any ideas. The temp in my room is roughly 25c.
> It is however much lower than my 780 SLi setup.


what fans again?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> So I went from this........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally this......


Looks even better, good 45's


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks even better, good 45's


Cheers mate, I've found I'm absolutely atrocious at 90's but passable at 45's


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> So I went from this........
> 
> 
> To this......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally this......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And just to show how much aesthetics is a personal manifestation . . . . .

You should have just left that first setup alone . . . .









it's by far the nicest of the 3.

#3 is better than 2 because at least it's consistent, but the horizontal and verticals of the first one are the cleanest, least distracting, and most consistent with the other lines within the build.

My









D.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You should have just left that first setup alone . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's by far the nicest of the 3.
> 
> #3 is better than 2 because at least it's consistent, but the horizontal and verticals of the first one are the cleanest.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Cheers D., you're input and guidance as a Veteran and builder of some stunning Rigs is very much appreciated. As I went through all 3 loops there was always SOMETHING that irked me about them, the 90's in the first build were far from acceptable, the ports wouldn't line up so the tubing would be just off from being symmetrical etc etc etc, I'm even tossing up the idea of changing the angled run from the rad to the CPU back to the first builds horizontal run but need more tubing for that.

I've kept a lot of the original pieces and most are interchangeable between the 3 setups, so if worse comes to worse and things go pearshaped it's easy to just drain - replace - refill

Plus my rigs are never 100% complete because I'm never completely satisfied and I always get some hairbrained inspiration then proceed to teardown and rebuild. Rinse And Repeat


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You should have just left that first setup alone . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's by far the nicest of the 3.
> 
> #3 is better than 2 because at least it's consistent, but the horizontal and verticals of the first one are the cleanest.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers D., you're input and guidance as a Veteran and builder of some stunning Rigs is very much appreciated. As I went through all 3 loops there was always SOMETHING that irked me about them, the 90's in the first build were far from acceptable, the ports wouldn't line up so the tubing would be just off from being symmetrical etc etc etc, I'm even tossing up the idea of changing the angled run from the rad to the CPU back to the first builds horizontal run but need more tubing for that.
> 
> I've kept a lot of the original pieces and most are interchangeable between the 3 setups, so if worse comes to worse and things go pearshaped it's easy to just drain - replace - refill
> 
> Plus my rigs are never 100% complete because I'm never completely satisfied and I always get some hairbrained inspiration then proceed to teardown and rebuild. Rinse And Repeat
Click to expand...

I think for the most part, most WC builds remain Works in Progress for most of their lives.

Assuming it's functioning properly, If the look is working for the builder at the current moment in time, then that's really all that counts









D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Yo TCO, did you try that sys prep by chance?? I have finished painting my older 2 rads and now want to flush them out for a while before going into the new case. I can flush with distilled only and be good I'm sure, but if that sys prep did anything good for you, I may add some in for good measures. Can't really hurt any, just want to clean them out from dust or anything from laying around for a bit. I have no bad coolant issues with either of them since they always ran distilled to start with.
> 
> Was just curious??
> 
> Thanks,
> Hambone


I have not run the sys prep. I am just running the diluted DI water right now, @Mayhem said he was going to ship A Blitz kit on the house. So That will be mailed tue to me. I will go from there. Just been playing Witcher 3 for now!

TCO


----------



## derickwm

Jeez people...slow your roll. That's not corrosion. Open up the blocks (we'd rather have you open them then send them back for no reason) and wash it out. Get some non-abrasive polisher if you'd like. I did this last week to all my blocks and now they just sparkle.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Jeez people...slow your roll. That's not corrosion. Open up the blocks (we'd rather have you open them then send them back for no reason) and wash it out. Get some non-abrasive polisher if you'd like. I did this last week to all my blocks and now they just sparkle.


Who are you refering to? I've never sent a block back nor do I think I ever will







They are amazing.

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have not run the sys prep. I am just running the diluted DI water right now, @Mayhem said he was going to ship A Blitz kit on the house. So That will be mailed tue to me. I will go from there. Just been playing Witcher 3 for now!
> 
> TCO


But i wanted you to be the guinea pig








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Jeez people...slow your roll. That's not corrosion. Open up the blocks (we'd rather have you open them then send them back for no reason) and wash it out. Get some non-abrasive polisher if you'd like. I did this last week to all my blocks and now they just sparkle.


Just don't be like TCO while putting it back together and bite your Orings


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Jeez people...slow your roll. That's not corrosion. Open up the blocks (we'd rather have you open them then send them back for no reason) and wash it out. Get some non-abrasive polisher if you'd like. I did this last week to all my blocks and now they just sparkle.
> 
> 
> 
> Who are you refering to? I've never sent a block back nor do I think I ever will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are amazing.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

A couple pages back. Just ranting.

/probably should quote posts


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> But i wanted you to be the guinea pig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just don't be like TCO while putting it back together and bite your Orings










I understand you guys would like me to go through hard work for no return and......... Ah what the hell I do that anyway







Who am I kidding.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> A couple pages back. Just ranting.
> 
> /probably should quote posts


I understand









TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have not run the sys prep. I am just running the diluted DI water right now, @Mayhem said he was going to ship A Blitz kit on the house. So That will be mailed tue to me. I will go from there. Just been playing Witcher 3 for now!
> 
> TCO


Good morning, well, on the west coast. Awesome sauce









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Jeez people...slow your roll. That's not corrosion. Open up the blocks (we'd rather have you open them then send them back for no reason) and wash it out. Get some non-abrasive polisher if you'd like. I did this last week to all my blocks and now they just sparkle.


I think i qualify as an expert on nickel "corrosion. Yeah, I told em just to clean it and use a cleaner or polisher to get it back to normal. Nothing major that I could see there.

Check the label on the cleaner/polish to ensure its good for nickel. I recommend Weiman, good for copper, brass, chrome, nickel, gold, aluminum, and a few more. Does a better and more jobs vs Brasso. Stinks a bit less too







.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good morning, well, on the west coast. Awesome sauce


Im pretty Stoked! And Top of the Morning to you (Central Time in the Swamps) I will run this Blitz effect and then choose what pastel to run in this thing, I still feel as though the Orange would have to be mixed to make a lighter colour. So.... I am thinking of Alternatives again







I very well could run a blue, or just Dual Greens...

TCO


----------



## wermad

Blue


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Blue


Hmmm..... That's 3 Votes Blue So far.

TCO


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have not run the sys prep. I am just running the diluted DI water right now, @Mayhem said he was going to ship A Blitz kit on the house. So That will be mailed tue to me. I will go from there. Just been playing Witcher 3 for now!
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Good morning, well, on the west coast. Awesome sauce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Jeez people...slow your roll. That's not corrosion. Open up the blocks (we'd rather have you open them then send them back for no reason) and wash it out. Get some non-abrasive polisher if you'd like. I did this last week to all my blocks and now they just sparkle.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think i qualify as an expert on nickel "corrosion. Yeah, I told em just to clean it and use a cleaner or polisher to get it back to normal. Nothing major that I could see there.
> 
> Check the label on the cleaner/polish to ensure its good for nickel. I recommend Weiman, good for copper, brass, chrome, nickel, gold, aluminum, and a few more. Does a better and more jobs vs Brasso. Stinks a bit less too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

I wish I knew what brand I had, it produces amazing results. I went down to the local auto shop and told them I needed non-abrasive shine for nickel plated copper and they just gave me some stuff that is in an old mustard bottle from a restaurant


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im pretty Stoked! And Top of the Morning to you (Central Time in the Swamps) I will run this Blitz effect and then choose what pastel to run in this thing, I still feel as though the Orange would have to be mixed to make a lighter colour. So.... I am thinking of Alternatives again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I very well could run a blue, or *just Dual Greens...*
> 
> TCO


No, dual loops need dual color IMHO Even if it's green & Distilled water.


----------



## wermad

Hoenstly, I would have given the orange another shot, but if you don't wanna return to that, get blue. Any chance you could have saved the orange, or is it done?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> No, dual loops need dual color IMHO Even if it's green & Distilled water.


And here is another Vote of Colour or Clear... I am torn, this is a harder decision than the big girls when I was younger.









TCO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hoenstly, I would have given the orange another shot, but if you don't wanna return to that, get blue. Any chance you could have saved the orange, or is it done?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I want to give it another chance... but I just don't wana end up draining this thing again with 2 gallons of distilled.

TCO


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> get blue


This is what I thought the first time I saw the build pictures. I think green and blue would be killer. I didn't say anything because he already dumped red, and stuffs not cheap.


----------



## Ramzinho

May i ask you guys why u are recommending blue? does it discolor harder? i'm going to use white pastel and non stain blue dye.. Enlighten us Gurus


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> A couple pages back. Just ranting.
> 
> /probably should quote posts


All you all need to do is remove the warranty stickers and tell people it is ok to open them, and that will be the case. Putting a warranty sticker that says "warranty Void if removed" will cause the exact reaction that I gave. Just an FYI, when I replaced my tops, I was immediately told if I ever open the block and it leaks, my warranty is gone due to user error. Requesting people to open their block and polish it while risking the warranty and any items that it is attached to is kind of misleading.

On that note, I always open my blocks, because I am not patient enough for the block to go back to the factory to get taken care of.

For everyone else, he was referring to me. I know who I am :-D

I have actually saved a screen shot of that statement, because I have never seen someone say to remove the block top from EK.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> This is what I thought the first time I saw the build pictures. I think green and blue would be killer. I didn't say anything because he already dumped red, and stuffs not cheap.


Eh, Ill get some blue! I just like green a ton more, although If the Color Combo is going to Drop Jaws, I think I am leaning toward it.

4 Votes blue.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> May i ask you guys why u are recommending blue? does it discolor harder? i'm going to use white pastel and non stain blue dye.. Enlighten us Gurus


I love the white pastel!, I have it in my 750D and it is starting to turn a bluish tint after a year of running it though, I've drained and refilled that same loop a ton of times, Just re using the White after the problem was resolved.

TCO


----------



## wermad

So, is blue pastel one of those colors that holds over time? I may try pastel again.


----------



## derickwm

It's time...









































































I'm not entirely sold on this combo yet... the tube on the right will be straightened. The clear tubing will have blood red coolant flowing through it. I may switch it so red fittings have the clear tubing/red fluid and black fittings have black tubing. Or just go back to one color set. What do YOU guys think?



















More:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/220#post_23943585


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, is blue pastel one of those colors that holds over time? I may try pastel again.


I only used it for a year in my loop & the colour doesn't change as far as I can see. Then stored in a bottle for a year & the colour also doesn't change.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's time...
> 
> I'm not entirely sold on this combo yet... the tube on the right will be straightened. The clear tubing will have blood red coolant flowing through it. I may switch it so red fittings have the clear tubing/red fluid and black fittings have black tubing. Or just go back to one color set. What do YOU guys think?
> 
> More:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/220#post_23943585


How's the new channel flow design on the core compare to the previous flow design? Its looking a lot like a cpu flow design.

Sweet looking hardware Derick







. Though, x58 and triple titan x's......



So, x99 coming soon????

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I only used it for a year in my loop & the colour doesn't change as far as I can see. Then stored in a bottle for a year & the colour also doesn't change.


Thank you! I'm going to seriously think on this one! I've only done yellow and loved it but didn't keep it long.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's time...
> 
> I'm not entirely sold on this combo yet... the tube on the right will be straightened. The clear tubing will have blood red coolant flowing through it. I may switch it so red fittings have the clear tubing/red fluid and black fittings have black tubing. Or just go back to one color set. What do YOU guys think?
> 
> More:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/220#post_23943585
> 
> 
> 
> How's the new channel flow design on the core compare to the previous flow design? Its looking a lot like a cpu flow design.
> 
> Sweet looking hardware Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Though, x58 and triple titan x's......
> 
> So, x99 coming soon????
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I only used it for a year in my loop & the colour doesn't change as far as I can see. Then stored in a bottle for a year & the colour also doesn't change.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you! I'm going to seriously think on this one! I've only done yellow and loved it but didn't keep it long.
Click to expand...

Go read the build log  X58 is only for marketing purposes as I need photos of a rig with RAM + Motherboard blocks. Rampage V Extreme + 5960X will be the final build spec.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> May i ask you guys why u are recommending blue? does it discolor harder? i'm going to use white pastel and non stain blue dye.. Enlighten us Gurus


No guru, but red and black go together...all that white in his case calls for a soft pastel combo. Blue and green for intel and nvidia.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Go read the build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X58 is only for marketing purposes as I need photos of a rig with RAM + Motherboard blocks. Rampage V Extreme + 5960X will be the final build spec.


Dare you paint the Motherboard Orange?









TCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> No guru, but red and black go together...all that white in his case calls for a soft pastel combo. *Blue and green for intel* and nvidia.




Wow... That never occurred to me.... (not being sarcastic)

TCO

I didn't realize the dom colour for Intel was blue... nor did I ever even think about that...







This is making more sense now


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Go read the build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X58 is only for marketing purposes as I need photos of a rig with RAM + Motherboard blocks. Rampage V Extreme + 5960X will be the final build spec.


I figured but I'll be the guy who asks







.

How does the new gpu flow design fare? Any thermal advantage from the traditional flow path design?


----------



## derickwm

Restriction slightly higher, temps a bit better  hard to compare apple to apples when it's two completely different GPUs but you can go check out Stren's 980 roundup for more info.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@wermad and @inedenimadam Blue Berry ?

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Restriction slightly higher, temps a bit better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hard to compare apple to apples when it's two completely different GPUs but you can go check out Stren's 980 roundup for more info.


Kewl








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @wermad and @inedenimadam Blue Berry ?
> 
> TCO


i would start off with blueberry and buy some extra dye if you want to tweak the color. From memory, I asked a member running it and said he added some extra dye to bring it to the hue he wanted. I would ask in the mayhems club first which dye(s) are needed for what ever you're looking for. I can't really assume to add more blue dye straight since I've seen it may need a combination of dyes to get it where you want. I'm sure one who's done will chime in


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> what fans again?


Corsair SP120 Quiet (3pin). But I don't think the fans have anything to do with it. It's just that there is a lot of heat coming from my Titan X's. Also need to mention that it was running valley for like an hour.


----------



## andl




----------



## rlb9682

Maybe somebody can help me out with radiator placement in the Corsair 900D .
I want to add a second radiator, I have one on top already,. and I'd like to put the second one up front fan intake area but it seems like the tubing would look sloppy this way. Any ideas on placement or alternatives for the radiator?

Here's a pic of how it looks now.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And here is another Vote of Colour or Clear... I am torn, this is a harder decision than the big girls when I was younger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> I want to give it another chance... but I just don't wana end up draining this thing again with 2 gallons of distilled.
> 
> TCO


Id say go pastel white. Than you have the option to make t whatever color you like. Also also if say you go orange to have a darker or lighter orange. Lastly I think white would work just by itself. Matches the case and cables and give it simple but clean look


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i would start off with blueberry and buy some extra dye if you want to tweak the color. From memory, I asked a member running it and said he added some extra dye to bring it to the hue he wanted. I would ask in the mayhems club first which dye(s) are needed for what ever you're looking for. I can't really assume to add more blue dye straight since I've seen it may need a combination of dyes to get it where you want. I'm sure one who's done will chime in


Sorry for double post on mobile at the moment but yea I used dark blue dye to get my blue berry pastel darker and this time I did t with white pastel. To get this color.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I know you want to run the semi-parallel setup, but if you are still having leaking issues, can you try hooking the 4 cards up in a series with 1 fitting between each card and then see if it still leaks? Just asking *because with a series, there is only 1 place for the water to go and never has any bit of restriction at all and should flow right past that area*. It would also take you from 5 fittings in between to 3 and less chance of something leaking since you are taking 40% of the problem area away.
> 
> Is there any imperfections in any of the fitting areas? a small little dent in the acrylic or little anything can be a big problem when trying to seal something. Maybe run something over the sealing areas to kinda polish them back to perfectly smooth or light weight sanding ( I'm not really meaning to sand them, just to get rid of any bumps or anything sticking out that would cause them not to seal correct ) .. Even a cloth with some polishing compound to help them seal? Try moving the o-rings to different areas as some maybe a little thicker than others due to manufacturing flaws.
> 
> Have you tried to use new piece's of tube between them? Maybe the tubes are having the issues due to them going on and off many times?
> 
> Also, like TCO said, do not try to put anything with o-rings together DRY. use something to lubricate them. It will allow them to seat properly and not bind up, even if you are 100% sure that once put together they are visually sealing. Visually isn't good enough when it comes to pressure.
> 
> Just trying to help bud, I too know how frustrating things can be


Not sure I understand what your saying, but series is more restrictive than parallel.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Not sure I understand what your saying, *but series is more restrictive than parallel*.










Are we really doing this again.....

TCO

The difference is minimal and Series V Parallel should be chosen due to asthectics


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i would start off with blueberry and buy some extra dye if you want to tweak the color. From memory, I asked a member running it and said he added some extra dye to bring it to the hue he wanted. I would ask in the mayhems club first which dye(s) are needed for what ever you're looking for. I can't really assume to add more blue dye straight since I've seen it may need a combination of dyes to get it where you want. I'm sure one who's done will chime in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for double post on mobile at the moment but yea I used dark blue dye to get my blue berry pastel darker and this time I did t with white pastel. To get this color.
Click to expand...

Please...for me......

imgur.com.

And use the IMG link they provide instead of the OCN photo mangler?


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have not run the sys prep. I am just running the diluted DI water right now, @Mayhem said he was going to ship A Blitz kit on the house. So That will be mailed tue to me. I will go from there. Just been playing Witcher 3 for now!
> 
> TCO


Cool. I bought 3 gallons of distilled last night for only $2.59 for the 3 pack LOL. I added the sys prep to one of them and labeled the bottle just so I know it wasn't straight distilled. I put it in my flushing setup on those 2 rads and have been running since last night because it said to run for 12 hours. To be honest tho, I'm not sure that it was needed. My distilled that I had running for a couple hours before that was totally clean and clear. My rads, pump, and res that is in that setup currently are clean as can be, but it couldn't hurt really. I'm going to run some of it through the entire loop when I get it all installed in my new X9 setup, then drain and add my distilled for now, and will probably order the Blood Red 100ml mix from EK so I'll have red in my new loop. Thanks for replying on it tho









So an update as of today. I pulled every panel from the X9 and pulled the mesh off the front panel which was a pain kinda right when I woke up and didn't even put down a cup of coffee lol, but got it off. Every panel is now painted nicely and Red that matches the rads I painted. They are all dry pretty much now, but I put an extra coat on the front mesh and the side panel with the window just to make those really nice no matter what, but all of them are fully coated and looking good anyways. I will put the case together in a little bit after a little more dry time and should look badass, at least to my likings that is. That is the main thing







.

Small question for everybody tho. I know what I can do really, but doesn't hurt to at least ask for some opinions from you guys here. I will have my 4790K @ 5ghz , M6F vrm's , and Titan X all on water in the new build just as it is in my current 540 air now. I have the 240mm and 360mm rads in there and they are keeping my parts cool as can be. Cpu only hits 66c with stress tests. VRM's only hitting 38c max during stress, 32-34c gaming. The TX is maxing out at 36-38c benching or gaming. All as long as my ambients are 20-21c.. I really couldn't ask for better temps and those are great IMO. I'm just questioning the new loop that will be in the X9 kinda. I'm going from just the 240 and 360 that is doing a Perfect job now and nothing to worry about, to having 2x 360's and my 480 (60mm) in the new loop. That's pretty much double the rad space I have now cooling those 3 parts or even more if you count the 60mm quad as more than a 30mm quad. So it's double at the minimum at least.

Questions tho.
1. Should I just run a single loop with the 2x 360s 1x 480 on everything?
2. Split into 2 loops and run say the 480 on just the Titan X, and 2x 360s on the cpu and mobo?
3. Different combo of rads on the parts in a different way?

I was going to run all in 1 loop and not worry about a thing and have 2 pumps running, but since I will have 2 pumps I have the option of splitting into 2 loops also. Not sure it will really matter either way, but doesn't hurt to ask








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Not sure I understand what your saying, but series is more restrictive than parallel.


That wasn't the point at all. This was just to help him with his leaking issue. It's fixed and over with now so we will leave it alone K.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Cool. I bought 3 gallons of distilled last night for only $2.59 for the 3 pack LOL. I added the sys prep to one of them and labeled the bottle just so I know it wasn't straight distilled. I put it in my flushing setup on those 2 rads and have been running since last night because it said to run for 12 hours. To be honest tho, I'm not sure that it was needed. My distilled that I had running for a couple hours before that was totally clean and clear. My rads, pump, and res that is in that setup currently are clean as can be, but it couldn't hurt really. I'm going to run some of it through the entire loop when I get it all installed in my new X9 setup, then drain and add my distilled for now, and will probably order the Blood Red 100ml mix from EK so I'll have red in my new loop. Thanks for replying on it tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an update as of today. I pulled every panel from the X9 and pulled the mesh off the front panel which was a pain kinda right when I woke up and didn't even put down a cup of coffee lol, but got it off. Every panel is now painted nicely and Red that matches the rads I painted. They are all dry pretty much now, but I put an extra coat on the front mesh and the side panel with the window just to make those really nice no matter what, but all of them are fully coated and looking good anyways. I will put the case together in a little bit after a little more dry time and should look badass, at least to my likings that is. That is the main thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Small question for everybody tho. I know what I can do really, but doesn't hurt to at least ask for some opinions from you guys here. I will have my 4790K @ 5ghz , M6F vrm's , and Titan X all on water in the new build just as it is in my current 540 air now. I have the 240mm and 360mm rads in there and they are keeping my parts cool as can be. Cpu only hits 66c with stress tests. VRM's only hitting 38c max during stress, 32-34c gaming. The TX is maxing out at 36-38c benching or gaming. All as long as my ambients are 20-21c.. I really couldn't ask for better temps and those are great IMO. I'm just questioning the new loop that will be in the X9 kinda. I'm going from just the 240 and 360 that is doing a Perfect job now and nothing to worry about, to having 2x 360's and my 480 (60mm) in the new loop. That's pretty much double the rad space I have now cooling those 3 parts or even more if you count the 60mm quad as more than a 30mm quad. So it's double at the minimum at least.
> 
> Questions tho.
> 1. Should I just run a single loop with the 2x 360s 1x 480 on everything?
> 2. Split into 2 loops and run say the 480 on just the Titan X, and 2x 360s on the cpu and mobo?
> 3. Different combo of rads on the parts in a different way?
> 
> I was going to run all in 1 loop and not worry about a thing and have 2 pumps running, but since I will have 2 pumps I have the option of splitting into 2 loops also. Not sure it will really matter either way, but doesn't hurt to ask


DUAL LOOPS FOR THE WIN! (Fist pump, and doing little happy dance ensues.

Just my .02 $

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> DUAL LOOPS FOR THE WIN! (Fist pump, and doing little happy dance ensues.
> 
> Just my .02 $
> 
> TCO


If dual, how would you go about it with the 3 parts I am cooling and the 3 rads that will be in my new setup?

LOL @ 9mil + views and 85K + replys. Dame does this thread move so fast


----------



## SteezyTN

Finally finished my build in a Corsair 750D. I'm actually very satisfied with how it turned out. $1300 in watercooling parts, and a little less run $5000 total. Now all this was added over a year and a half, so it's not like I spent $5000 at once. Went from an H100i, to custom loop for just the CPU. Then I upgraded to GPU water blocks. Now about a month ago, I decided to go big and do hard tubing. This is where I ended up. I never spent this time into something before







very proud of myself for diving into this custom watercooling world. This is my new found hobby. Please let me know what you guys think about it.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Finally finished my build in a Corsair 750D. I'm actually very satisfied with how it turned out. $1300 in watercooling parts, and a little less run $5000 total. Now all this was added over a year and a half, so it's not like I spent $5000 at once. Went from an H100i, to custom loop for just the CPU. Then I upgraded to GPU water blocks. Now about a month ago, I decided to go big and do hard tubing. This is where I ended up. I never spent this time into something before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very proud of myself for diving into this custom watercooling world. This is my new found hobby. Please let me know what you guys think about it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yeah, water cooling is so much fun bud. I have been doing custom water now for 10 years. Once I started, I haven't been able to stop. It is great once you finish a build and see the hard work pay off, that's the best part. Just sit there and stare at it with a big smile and say, yup, badass!!









Looks great tho man!! Great job!!


----------



## rlb9682

Definitely! Great job on your rig, it looks fantastic!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> DUAL LOOPS FOR THE WIN! (Fist pump, and doing little happy dance ensues.
> 
> Just my .02 $
> 
> TCO


New build coming in. will continue to run one pump, one loop







. I'm sure D5 will be migh*D*y strong for it







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Questions tho.
> 1. Should I just run a single loop with the 2x 360s 1x 480 on everything?
> 2. Split into 2 loops and run say the 480 on just the Titan X, and 2x 360s on the cpu and mobo?
> 3. Different combo of rads on the parts in a different way?
> 
> I was going to run all in 1 loop and not worry about a thing and have 2 pumps running, but since I will have 2 pumps I have the option of splitting into 2 loops also. Not sure it will really matter either way, but doesn't hurt to ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Not sure I understand what your saying, but series is more restrictive than parallel.
> 
> 
> 
> That wasn't the point at all. This was just to help him with his leaking issue. It's fixed and over with now so we will leave it alone K.
Click to expand...

1 loop maximizes the performance of your rads,dual loops are mainly for Multi cpu with multi GPU setups.

When your GPU's are idle,the rad space attached to it is idle,this is why single is preferred over dual,keep the 2 pumps tho,redundancy for moving parts is always a good thing.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Please...for me......
> 
> imgur.com.
> 
> And use the IMG link they provide instead of the OCN photo mangler?


Are full photos OK? Sometimes I want people to see a photo with decent resolution and not have to trust them to click original after clicking on the thumbnail OCN provides.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Are full photos OK? Sometimes I want people to see a photo with decent resolution and not have to trust them to click original after clicking on the thumbnail OCN provides.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Perfectly fine.. we all do the same thing buddy









Awesome rig btw. well done.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys, as some of you may know, I am working on a custom, scratch built case. I am in the 3D design phase but moving quickly. It will be a case for water cooling. Here's an in progress shot, some of you may recognize where I got my inspiration from







It is mATX form factor with SFX PSU.



Link to the build log can be found *here*.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> If dual, how would you go about it with the 3 parts I am cooling and the 3 rads that will be in my new setup?
> 
> LOL @ 9mil + views and 85K + replys. Dame does this thread move so fast


Quote:


> Questions tho.
> 1. Should I just run a single loop with the 2x 360s 1x 480 on everything?
> 2. Split into 2 loops and run say the 480 on just the Titan X, and 2x 360s on the cpu and mobo?
> 3. Different combo of rads on the parts in a different way?


I would split the loops. 360mm for the Titan X and the 480mm and 360mm for the Processor.

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Ok, 1 loop it is. I will keep the dual pumps tho. I like the thought of if something happened or whatnot, there's at least a backup just in case. It's not the fact that I don't think 1 D5 can do the job, that's silly, it's just for the added safety, and it also aids the other pump into not having to work as hard and will let the pumps last longer that way IMO.

Well, I'm tired now. I have been working on this new X9 all day long. Woke up and started ripping it apart to start the painting process since it's a real nice day where I live and perfect for painting. Sun is shinning and helps dry things faster, although the paint I have is not cheap stuff from the store, it's pretty expensive paint that my company has made to match the powder coating of our products. 1 small can is like $12







lol.. They told me to take what I want, love my job!! Just got done tho putting it all back together and I must say, I am VERY HAPPY with the way it turned out!! It looks great IMO and I can't wait to get the rads and everything inside







. I might end up tearing down my pc tomorrow and getting it built? Not sure yet? Depends on what's going on being the holiday weekend. Monday is more of the busy day tho, so tomorrow may be good.

Here's how it turned out tho and can't wait to get er done! Whatcha think?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would split the loops. 360mm for the Titan X and the 480mm and 360mm for the Processor.
> 
> TCO


Really?!?! You would go that little on the Titan and that MUCH on just my cpu? It only hits 66c now @ 5ghz with the current rads. If I was rock'n a 5960X I could see that for sure, but this little guy isn't that bad really. Interesting that you would go so much for the cpu tho


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Perfectly fine.. we all do the same thing buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome rig btw. well done.


Thanks Ramzi =) Much appreciated.
I went down to a single 980 but I'll buy another one when they drop in price.

I'm dying to do another rig... Nobody I know has any idea what watercooling is. Mortals.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New build coming in. will continue to run one pump, one loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm sure D5 will be migh*D*y strong for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I wonder which case this time, or more to the point who's case you're collecting on Wednesday


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Ok,
> Really?!?! You would go that little on the Titan and that MUCH on just my cpu? It only hits 66c now @ 5ghz with the current rads. If I was rock'n a 5960X I could see that for sure, but this little guy isn't that bad really. Interesting that you would go so much for the cpu tho


I would think that the TX isn't going to put off that much heat ( could have it's own loop) and then have even more headroom to OC that processor or if you do change processors you have the room to OC.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Here's how it turned out tho and can't wait to get er done! Whatcha think?


Wow, that's looks pretty good









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I wonder which case this time, or more to the point who's case you're collecting on Wednesday


Lol, yeah, I take delivery next week. more planning is ahead. May go w/ a half hardline and regular tube setup. I'll have to get the case first to figure that out tbh.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> New build coming in. will continue to run one pump, one loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm sure D5 will be migh*D*y strong for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Lol this is something I want to see.


----------



## Hambone07si

[
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would think that the TX isn't going to put off that much heat ( could have it's own loop) and then have even more headroom to OC that processor or if you do change processors you have the room to OC.
> 
> TCO


I hear ya, but I guess I should have mentioned that a 2nd TX will probably be in the loop too soon. My new 4970K runs great at 5ghz with only 1.300v all day long, tried going to 5.1ghz stable and it was taking 1.400v to do that and was creating a lot more heat, going from 66c to 80c and I just don't want to push that much Vcore through such a nice chip. It will stay at 5ghz happily and I will probably keep this setup for a good while now. It's doing just about everything I need now with just 1 TX, if I add a second, I will not need to do a thing for a couple years at least. I just don't wanna have to redo all my tubing if I do add the 2nd TX and then need to go more on the rads.

I would do the 60mm thick quad I have on the gpu alone and know that would do 2 TX's with no problems, but just not sure about a 30mm triple for 2 of them??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, that's looks pretty good


Thanks man!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lol this is something I want to see.


I've ran one pump for the majority of my builds. Once I did run a couple of jingways sharing the same res but feeding the cpu/mb and the gpu's. I don't really see a need to split the loop and frankly its way more plumbing then just connecting everything in series for a single loop (i guess). But yeah, gonna roll w/ my D5. I was hoping to sell my bay res and get a new one w/ d5 or a new tube res w/ d5 attachment, but I remember I killed the led's (







). So, the value has gone done for sure and I might as well keep it. I need to contact monsoon and ask if they can sell me the replacement pcb. led's did give it a nice touch







.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've ran one pump for the majority of my builds. Once I did run a couple of jingways sharing the same res but feeding the cpu/mb and the gpu's. I don't really see a need to split the loop and frankly its way more plumbing then just connecting everything in series for a single loop (i guess). But yeah, gonna roll w/ my D5. I was hoping to sell my bay res and get a new one w/ d5 or a new tube res w/ d5 attachment, but I remember I killed the led's (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). So, the value has gone done for sure and I might as well keep it. I need to contact monsoon and ask if they can sell me the replacement pcb. led's did give it a nice touch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You also had no idea what the flow rate was, and this new build will be The One Build so let's see


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've ran one pump for the majority of my builds. Once I did run a couple of jingways sharing the same res but feeding the cpu/mb and the gpu's. I don't really see a need to split the loop and frankly its way more plumbing then just connecting everything in series for a single loop (i guess). But yeah, gonna roll w/ my D5. I was hoping to sell my bay res and get a new one w/ d5 or a new tube res w/ d5 attachment, but I remember I killed the led's (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). So, the value has gone done for sure and I might as well keep it. I need to contact monsoon and ask if they can sell me the replacement pcb. led's did give it a nice touch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Geno has sent me 4 of those PCBs... For a while they kept blowing up. I finally figured out that my Seasonic Gold X-1250 was killing them. The Platinum 1000 doesn't. They are definitely weird LEDs. Point was Geno is a badass and he will take care of you.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> If dual, how would you go about it with the 3 parts I am cooling and the 3 rads that will be in my new setup?
> 
> LOL @ 9mil + views and 85K + replys. Dame does this thread move so fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Questions tho.
> 1. Should I just run a single loop with the 2x 360s 1x 480 on everything?
> 2. Split into 2 loops and run say the 480 on just the Titan X, and 2x 360s on the cpu and mobo?
> 3. Different combo of rads on the parts in a different way?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *I would split the loops. 360mm for the Titan X and the 480mm and 360mm for the Processor*.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

That just makes no bloody sense at all . . . . .









If you're going to use multiple loops efficiently and effectively, you at least want to allocate rad capacity proportionately to the heat produced in each loop.

Especially since he's talking about a second Titan X, doing exactly opposite of what you suggest would be a far better plan and right on target.

A single T X puts out a lot more heat than a 4790 or even a 59XX series . . . so it makes a lot more sense to allocate at least the larger half of the rad capacity to the GPU, and if planning for a dual T X setup, then at least 2/3 to 3/4 of the rad capacity to the GPUs.

We talked about this before, HHO (hard headed one)

Darlene


----------



## LandonAaron

I dunno I kind of agree with TCO. Maybe not to the extent of a 2:1 rad ratio for the CPU loop, but its so easy to keep GPU's cool vs. CPU's that it seems like if you want to get the best possible OC on the CPU it should have the majority of the rads. I mean what difference does it really make if the GPU is 45 degrees or 55 degrees. But it makes all the difference in the world trying to squeeze out a a couple of degrees on the CPU.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You also had no idea what the flow rate was, and this new build will be The One Build so let's see


The old 35x ran my sth10 build (2x 560 ut60s, 420 ut60, 2x 280 ut60s, cpu, vram, pch, 2x ram, & 4x gpu's). It worked pretty solid even though it was at max (pwm failed) all the time. I'll be running a bit more rad this time but I'll see how it goes. Even two d5s in series I doubt would give me more powah. I'm debating on putting the bay res and pump in the bottom or top. might go bottom to avoid top heavy but then again I need to make sure my kids don't mess with my system as much as possible. Meh, I'll be find, I'll go over the top elsewhere







. I'll hit you up if I need more help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Geno has sent me 4 of those PCBs... For a while they kept blowing up. I finally figured out that my Seasonic Gold X-1250 was killing them. The Platinum 1000 doesn't. They are definitely weird LEDs. Point was Geno is a badass and he will take care of you.


Thanks dude! Molex connectors can easily be plugged in the wrong way, enough that they make contact. I'm sure I killed me leds when I incorrectly plugged in the 12v feed (







)


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I dunno I kind of agree with TCO. Maybe not to the extent of a 2:1 rad ratio for the CPU loop, but its so easy to keep GPU's cool vs. CPU's that it seems like if you want to get the best possible OC on the CPU it should have the majority of the rads. I mean what difference does it really make if the GPU is 45 degrees or 55 degrees. But it makes all the difference in the world trying to squeeze out a a couple of degrees on the CPU.


Well that's because you are mounting a block directly to the die, not a heat spreader that is touching a die underneath. It doesn't really matter if I put 1 360 or 20 360s on my cpu. If the water temp isn't going up any from the cpu it's not going to do anything more by having more. I'm already at the end of where I can push the cpu. I'm not even close to being at the end of pushing my Titan X more. I haven't nodded my bios yet on it to go to the extreme, but if I do it would be great to have the extra cooling to do so.

I was kinda surprised by TCO's reply to split the rads that way as well. I was thinking I'd here more of something like , put 1 360 on cpu and mobo and rest on gpus, ore just leave it all on 1 loop.

Diva, what would you do with that situation?? Single loop or split? Another thing is my 2x 360s will be on top of the case and the 480 will be on the bottom under the Titan X. Would like to not criss-cross tubes all over the place too if I could lol...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Ok, 1 loop it is. I will keep the dual pumps tho. I like the thought of if something happened or whatnot, there's at least a backup just in case. It's not the fact that I don't think 1 D5 can do the job, that's silly, it's just for the added safety, and it also aids the other pump into not having to work as hard and will let the pumps last longer that way IMO.
> 
> Well, I'm tired now. I have been working on this new X9 all day long. Woke up and started ripping it apart to start the painting process since it's a real nice day where I live and perfect for painting. Sun is shinning and helps dry things faster, although the paint I have is not cheap stuff from the store, it's pretty expensive paint that my company has made to match the powder coating of our products. 1 small can is like $12
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.. They told me to take what I want, love my job!! Just got done tho putting it all back together and I must say, I am VERY HAPPY with the way it turned out!! It looks great IMO and I can't wait to get the rads and everything inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I might end up tearing down my pc tomorrow and getting it built? Not sure yet? Depends on what's going on being the holiday weekend. Monday is more of the busy day tho, so tomorrow may be good.
> 
> Here's how it turned out tho and can't wait to get er done! Whatcha think?
> 
> Really?!?! You would go that little on the Titan and that MUCH on just my cpu? It only hits 66c now @ 5ghz with the current rads. If I was rock'n a 5960X I could see that for sure, but this little guy isn't that bad really. Interesting that you would go so much for the cpu tho


@geggeg helped me decided for my SMa8 build. I'm going to use dual pumps but only one loop. I'm going to have two reservoirs, and basically have them form one in total. I'd rather have dual pump and 1 loop, than dual loops


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I dunno I kind of agree with TCO. Maybe not to the extent of a 2:1 rad ratio for the CPU loop, but its so easy to keep GPU's cool vs. CPU's that it seems like if you want to get the best possible OC on the CPU it should have the majority of the rads. I mean what difference does it really make if the GPU is 45 degrees or 55 degrees. But it makes all the difference in the world trying to squeeze out a a couple of degrees on the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's because you are mounting a block directly to the die, not a heat spreader that is touching a die underneath. It doesn't really matter if I put 1 360 or 20 360s on my cpu. If the water temp isn't going up any from the cpu it's not going to do anything more by having more. I'm already at the end of where I can push the cpu. I'm not even close to being at the end of pushing my Titan X more. I haven't nodded my bios yet on it to go to the extreme, but if I do it would be great to have the extra cooling to do so.
> 
> I was kinda surprised by TCO's reply to split the rads that way as well. I was thinking I'd here more of something like , put 1 360 on cpu and mobo and rest on gpus, ore just leave it all on 1 loop.
> 
> Diva, what would you do with that situation?? Single loop or split? Another thing is my 2x 360s will be on top of the case and the 480 will be on the bottom under the Titan X. Would like to not criss-cross tubes all over the place too if I could lol...
Click to expand...

B Neg summed it up extremely well a few posts back where he said:

_1 loop maximizes the performance of your rads, dual loops are mainly for Multi cpu with multi GPU setups.

When your GPU's are idle, the rad space attached to it is idle, this is why single is preferred over dual, keep the 2 pumps though,redundancy for moving parts is always a good thing.
_

Single loop setups almost always give you the better bang for the buck over multi's.

That said . . . .

If you're willing to spend more on basically, an equivalently capable cooling setup . . . .

Dual / multi loop builds have a nice aesthetic about them when all the variables like case, rad sizes, and pump-res setups all work really nicely together.

The Caselabs SMA8 and STH10 style cases lend themselves particularly well to dual loops because of the feature area for the main components, and the large top and bottom segregated rad areas.

With cube cases, where the rads are closer to the main components, (and there's no real place to hide tubing runs) it's more important to be as clean and simple with the tube routing as possible.

I've been giving the Snow Edition Core X9 a very close look myself, as I have a build I'd like to migrate to a case with much better cooling capabilities.

I love multi loop - multi pumps setups, but honestly, in the X9, I'd go with a single loop with dual pumps on anything short of a dual CPU / quad GPU build, in which case I'd opt to stack a pair of them so there was enough space to not look crammed and cluttered..

The only way I could see a clean looking dual loop setup, isn't compatible with your SSD panel, or more than an Aquaero in the optical drive space.

From a cooling perspective, you have a pretty vanilla loop, even with a second Titan X, so stay with a single loop and concentrate on managing the details.

Darlene


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @wermad and @inedenimadam Blue Berry ?
> 
> TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> B Neg summed it up extremely well a few posts back where he said:
> 
> _1 loop maximizes the performance of your rads, dual loops are mainly for Multi cpu with multi GPU setups.
> 
> When your GPU's are idle, the rad space attached to it is idle, this is why single is preferred over dual, keep the 2 pumps though,redundancy for moving parts is always a good thing.
> _
> 
> Single loop setups almost always give you the better bang for the buck over multi's.
> 
> With cube cases, where the rads are closer to the main components, (and there's no real place to hide tubing runs) it's more important to be as clean and simple with the tube routing as possible.
> 
> I've been giving the Snow Edition Core X9 a very close look myself, as I have a build I'd like to migrate to a case with much better cooling capabilities.
> 
> I love multi loop - multi pumps setups, but honestly, in the X9, I'd go with a single loop with dual pumps on anything short of a dual CPU / quad GPU build, in which case I'd opt to stack a pair of them so there was enough space to not look crammed and cluttered..
> 
> Darlene


It's pretty good case. I wouldn't rave about it but if you're mod-happy, there's lots of potential. Especially since you can stack them.

Newegg is already shipping Snow Edition models. TT has spares parts in their store but customer service is very paltry tbh.

Would love to see what you do with it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> B Neg summed it up extremely well a few posts back where he said:
> 
> _1 loop maximizes the performance of your rads, dual loops are mainly for Multi cpu with multi GPU setups.
> 
> When your GPU's are idle, the rad space attached to it is idle, this is why single is preferred over dual, keep the 2 pumps though,redundancy for moving parts is always a good thing.
> _
> 
> Single loop setups almost always give you the better bang for the buck over multi's.
> 
> With cube cases, where the rads are closer to the main components, (and there's no real place to hide tubing runs) it's more important to be as clean and simple with the tube routing as possible.
> 
> I've been giving the Snow Edition Core X9 a very close look myself, as I have a build I'd like to migrate to a case with much better cooling capabilities.
> 
> I love multi loop - multi pumps setups, but honestly, in the X9, I'd go with a single loop with dual pumps on anything short of a dual CPU / quad GPU build, in which case I'd opt to stack a pair of them so there was enough space to not look crammed and cluttered..
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> It's pretty good case. I wouldn't rave about it but if you're mod-happy, there's lots of potential. Especially since you can stack them.
> 
> Newegg is already shipping Snow Edition models. TT has spares parts in their store but customer service is very paltry tbh.
> 
> Would love to see what you do with it
Click to expand...

It wouldn't be an exotic build, . . . got enough of those in progress already . . .

New Egg won't ship here and Amazon lists it as shipping in 3 to 5 weeks, so I have some time to ponder it, hopefully it will have less lead time in a month or so if I go for it:

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Stackable-Certified-Chassis-CA-1D8-00F6WN-00/dp/B00XCA86OM/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1432425090&sr=8-11&keywords=Thermaltake+Core+X9

I'm putting the R5E build in one of the TH10A's and the R4BE in the other one.

I had been thinking about an S8 to migrate the RIVE build to, but it's a bit anemic on internal rad space without adding a ped, which pushes the cost up a lot.

The X 9 is essentially an S8, height and width wise, that's stretched 6 inches longer so 420's and 480's are accommodated, which is what makes it so appealing. It would let me re-use a lot of stuff I already have, so I could keep it fairly low budget and spend the bigger money on the TH10A chiller builds.

With the RIVE build moved into a case with sufficient internal rad space, I can part out my external cooling module which would give me D5 pumps, a dual loop capable / dual D5 Koolance dual bay res, and a pile of expensive Prolimatech 140 fans. I have 1 HWL 420 from the RIVE build, I'd just need 2 more and a buttload of fittings.

The more I think about it . . . the more I like it . .









Darlene


----------



## wermad

Sounds kewl









Amazon can over estimate on availability. I bought the 900d at launch, and Amazon had a 3-5 week eta. My order shipped a week later to my surprise. I wouldn't bother with cs as they'll reiterate the site's window.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@IT Diva Do you have a kit kat? I need a break! Your crushing my Opinions. And my heart. Cant I be wrong? Just wrong sometimes?

TCO


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So... my watercoolings doing something kinda weird, its been running fine for a few months now but over the last week its sounded like its bleeding air again... but there's no air in it or getting in it, temps have been fine and I have no leaks









Any ideas?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So... my watercoolings doing something kinda weird, its been running fine for a few months now but over the last week its sounded like its bleeding air again... but there's no air in it or getting in it, temps have been fine and I have no leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas?


iirc you're using soft tubing. The coolant has evaporated through the tubing some and now the pump is sucking in air because the water level is low enough?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> iirc you're using soft tubing. The coolant has evaporated through the tubing some and now the pump is sucking in air because the water level is low enough?


Using Norprene tubing and my res is full


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's time...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


For a second, that reflection had me thinking that EK dumped the horrid circles for an actual interesting design. *shots fired*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I dunno I kind of agree with TCO. Maybe not to the extent of a 2:1 rad ratio for the CPU loop, but its so easy to keep GPU's cool vs. CPU's that it seems like if you want to get the best possible OC on the CPU it should have the majority of the rads. I mean what difference does it really make if the GPU is 45 degrees or 55 degrees. But it makes all the difference in the world trying to squeeze out a a couple of degrees on the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's because you are mounting a block directly to the die, not a heat spreader that is touching a die underneath. It doesn't really matter if I put 1 360 or 20 360s on my cpu. If the water temp isn't going up any from the cpu it's not going to do anything more by having more. I'm already at the end of where I can push the cpu. I'm not even close to being at the end of pushing my Titan X more. I haven't nodded my bios yet on it to go to the extreme, but if I do it would be great to have the extra cooling to do so.
> 
> I was kinda surprised by TCO's reply to split the rads that way as well. I was thinking I'd here more of something like , put 1 360 on cpu and mobo and rest on gpus, ore just leave it all on 1 loop.
> 
> Diva, what would you do with that situation?? Single loop or split? Another thing is my 2x 360s will be on top of the case and the 480 will be on the bottom under the Titan X. Would like to not criss-cross tubes all over the place too if I could lol...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> B Neg summed it up extremely well a few posts back where he said:
> 
> _1 loop maximizes the performance of your rads, dual loops are mainly for Multi cpu with multi GPU setups.
> 
> When your GPU's are idle, the rad space attached to it is idle, this is why single is preferred over dual, keep the 2 pumps though,redundancy for moving parts is always a good thing.
> _
> 
> Single loop setups almost always give you the better bang for the buck over multi's.
> 
> That said . . . .
> 
> If you're willing to spend more on basically, an equivalently capable cooling setup . . . .
> 
> Dual / multi loop builds have a nice aesthetic about them when all the variables like case, rad sizes, and pump-res setups all work really nicely together.
> 
> The Caselabs SMA8 and STH10 style cases lend themselves particularly well to dual loops because of the feature area for the main components, and the large top and bottom segregated rad areas.
> 
> With cube cases, where the rads are closer to the main components, (and there's no real place to hide tubing runs) it's more important to be as clean and simple with the tube routing as possible.
> 
> I've been giving the Snow Edition Core X9 a very close look myself, as I have a build I'd like to migrate to a case with much better cooling capabilities.
> 
> I love multi loop - multi pumps setups, but honestly, in the X9, I'd go with a single loop with dual pumps on anything short of a dual CPU / quad GPU build, in which case I'd opt to stack a pair of them so there was enough space to not look crammed and cluttered..
> 
> The only way I could see a clean looking dual loop setup, isn't compatible with your SSD panel, or more than an Aquaero in the optical drive space.
> 
> From a cooling perspective, you have a pretty vanilla loop, even with a second Titan X, so stay with a single loop and concentrate on managing the details.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Yup,this is a view I share.

My SR2 has 2 CPU's,3 GPU's and is still single loop...and for Wermad considering a single pump/single loop,this ran on a single D5 for months with no real performance hit,7 block,3 480's and 9mm bore copper pipe.


----------



## mandrix

So I had pretty much decided to get a dual top for my D5's and went shopping.
I guess the choices are the Bitspower and the EK acetyl. The EK Dual D5 acetyl block isn't available at PPC's or at EK right now, though.

But I noticed that -at least at PPC's- there were no more Bitspower acetyl dual D5 tops.
Are they not being made any more?

EDIT: NM I found it.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've ran one pump for the majority of my builds. Once I did run a couple of jingways sharing the same res but feeding the cpu/mb and the gpu's. I don't really see a need to split the loop and frankly its way more plumbing then just connecting everything in series for a single loop (i guess). But yeah, gonna roll w/ my D5. I was hoping to sell my bay res and get a new one w/ d5 or a new tube res w/ d5 attachment, but I remember I killed the led's (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). So, the value has gone done for sure and I might as well keep it. I need to contact monsoon and ask if they can sell me the replacement pcb. led's did give it a nice touch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Just got myself ekwb xres d5 instead of my Xspc dual bay. Noise gone down 2 time. Bleeding is instant in my loop, with Xspc it was a task for month.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,this is a view I share.
> 
> My SR2 has 2 CPU's,3 GPU's and is still single loop...and for Wermad considering a single pump/single loop,this ran on a single D5 for months with no real performance hit,7 block,3 480's and 9mm bore copper pipe.


This build is a classic







. I'm sure it can handle what I'm planning. Not gonna be running as many block like before (9 in sth10), but there will be a bit more rad this time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Just got myself ekwb xres d5 instead of my Xspc dual bay. Noise gone down 2 time. Bleeding is instant in my loop, with Xspc it was a task for month.


Thanks! I had a hard time too w/ the xspc bay res (og) and my first d5. I have separate setups at the moment as I didn't want to relinquish my top. I should have plenty of room keep like this but if I want to go w/ a combo, I'll definitely consider xspc ek.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks! I had a hard time too w/ the xspc bay res (og) and my first d5. I have separate setups at the moment as I didn't want to relinquish my top. I should have plenty of room keep like this but if I want to go w/ a combo, I'll definitely consider xspc.


I have issues with my xspc res. Actually cracks. Still have to add fillport


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> I have issues with my xspc res. Actually cracks. Still have to add fillport










I mean EK







. Wow, that's not good. Is still under warranty?


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Wow, that's not good. Is still under warranty?


No warranty. It run for about a year with this cracks already. And last time i check xspc warranty is gone alredy


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Wow, that's not good. Is still under warranty?


My XSPC Dual D5 reservoir cracked during cleaning with boiling tap-water, what a surprise, right?


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> My XSPC Dual D5 reservoir cracked during cleaning with boiling tap-water, what a surprise, right?


didnt boil any water in my reservoir, as far i know. but who knows


----------



## wermad

Any one dilute mayhems pastel concentrate past the 1L mixing instructions (250 + 750 water)???? Some one mentioned you can dilute it almost to a gallon without any serious color loss? Just can't find the post or the member







.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Wow, that's not good. Is still under warranty?
> 
> 
> 
> My XSPC Dual D5 reservoir cracked during cleaning with boiling tap-water, what a surprise, right?
Click to expand...

With boiling water, it's not really a surprise. I would surprise if nothing happen to the reservoir.


----------



## wermad

shocked the acrylic? definitely possible.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any one dilute mayhems pastel concentrate past the 1L mixing instructions (250 + 750 water)???? Some one mentioned you can dilute it almost to a gallon without any serious color loss? Just can't find the post or the member
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I'm pretty sure Mayhems rep did say that if too much water the nano particles fall out of suspension faster.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> With boiling water, it's not really a surprise. I would surprise if nothing happen to the reservoir.


Well, the reservoir was dirty with plastizicer and algea, which I was not able to scrub off anyways (and I did not wanted to use a reservoir in that condition) so it was junk already before I tried to clean it. Well, all taken in consideration (I was using dishwash-cleaner and boiling water to get that plastizicer and algeo out of the reservoir (which did not work, so no reason for others to try it). That was the last bay-reservoir I bought, tube reservoirs is much easier to clean in case it will be "infected" of plastizicer and/or algea because you can actually scrub it off, with bay-reservoirs that is impossible. Impossible in the way that you would need to dismantle the acrylic reservoir for then to glue it back together again after you are done with the cleaning, not a process I would start at any time.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Well, the reservoir was dirty with plastizicer and algea, which I was not able to scrub off anyways (and I did not wanted to use a reservoir in that condition) so it was junk already before I tried to clean it. Well, all taken in consideration (I was using dishwash-cleaner and boiling water to get that plastizicer and algeo out of the reservoir (which did not work, so no reason for others to try it). That was the last bay-reservoir I bought, tube reservoirs is much easier to clean in case it will be "infected" of plastizicer and/or algea because you can actually scrub it off, with bay-reservoirs that is impossible. Impossible in the way that you would need to dismantle the acrylic reservoir for then to glue it back together again after you are done with the cleaning, not a process I would start at any time.


Depends on the BayRes. I bought a Monoon Dual Bay Res + Pump from an OCN member and when I got it it was stained blue from the coolant he had been using. Fortunately it disassembles easily (just 4 hex screws) and I was able to clean the inside with a toothbrush to where it looked brand new. My XSPC X20 bay res looks like it could be disassembled fairly easily too, though I have never tried it.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Depends on the BayRes. I bought a Monoon Dual Bay Res + Pump from an OCN member and when I got it it was stained blue from the coolant he had been using. Fortunately it disassembles easily (just 4 hex screws) and I was able to clean the inside with a toothbrush to where it looked brand new. My XSPC X20 bay res looks like it could be disassembled fairly easily too, though I have never tried it.


Some bayres's might be easier to dissassamble than the XSPC Dual D5 5 1/4" Bay-res that I have/had. I am done with bay-reses anyways.


----------



## Malik

project Vulture


----------



## IT Diva

. . . . . Weeeeeeeeeee . . . .









I finally got some time to assemble my new gunmetal TH10A and do some parts mixing and matching with the white one.

I tried a lot of combinations of different case components swapped for color contrast and this is what I liked best overall.

That's Diva's Dementia on the left and Synaptic Anomaly on the right.

DD has a RVE/5930K with quad R9-290X's . . . Reverse ATX config

SA has a R4BE/4930 with quad Lightning 7970's . . . Normal ATX config

Both are rad / chiller hybrid setups with 2 X 480's up top and a 360 front for SA and a 280 front for DD.

Both have triple plate exchangers to interface the warm loop(s) to the chiller loop.

I'll have to find some matching paint for the scratch in the gunmetal top cover. . .









It was the last plastic bag I opened after everything was assembled, and something must have shifted in transit and scraped it.

Darlene


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . . . Weeeeeeeeeee . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got some time to assemble my new gunmetal TH10A and do some parts mixing and matching with the white one.
> 
> I tried a lot of combinations of different case components swapped for color contrast and this is what I liked best overall.
> 
> That's Diva's Dementia on the left and Synaptic Anomaly on the right.
> 
> DD has a RVE/5930K with quad R9-290X's . . . Reverse ATX config
> 
> SA has a R4BE/4930 with quad Lightning 7970's . . . Normal ATX config
> 
> Both are rad / chiller hybrid setups with 2 X 480's up top and a 360 front for SA and a 280 front for DD.
> 
> Both have triple plate exchangers to interface the warm loop(s) to the chiller loop.
> 
> I'll have to find some matching paint for the scratch in the gunmetal top cover. . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was the last plastic bag I opened after everything was assembled, and something must have shifted in transit and scraped it.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


PRETTY!









That's gotta be a pain to lift them up on the table


----------



## VSG

She's likely got powered lifts in there too if those case doors are anything to go by


----------



## Ironsmack

Yah know, if you wanted too... you could probably add those hood lifts/struts on those doors.

Just because









http://www.jcwhitney.com/strong-arm-lift-support-hood/p3038835.jcwx


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . . . Weeeeeeeeeee . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got some time to assemble my new gunmetal TH10A and do some parts mixing and matching with the white one.
> 
> I tried a lot of combinations of different case components swapped for color contrast and this is what I liked best overall.
> 
> That's Diva's Dementia on the left and Synaptic Anomaly on the right.
> 
> DD has a RVE/5930K with quad R9-290X's . . . Reverse ATX config
> 
> SA has a R4BE/4930 with quad Lightning 7970's . . . Normal ATX config
> 
> Both are rad / chiller hybrid setups with 2 X 480's up top and a 360 front for SA and a 280 front for DD.
> 
> Both have triple plate exchangers to interface the warm loop(s) to the chiller loop.
> 
> I'll have to find some matching paint for the scratch in the gunmetal top cover. . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was the last plastic bag I opened after everything was assembled, and something must have shifted in transit and scraped it.
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PRETTY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's gotta be a pain to lift them up on the table
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Yah know, if you wanted too... you could probably add those hood lifts/struts on those doors.
> 
> Just because
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/strong-arm-lift-support-hood/p3038835.jcwx


The work tables are more like gurneys . . . . They have wheels so moving them is no issue and the builds stay on them once complete. The towels keep little screws and parts from falling off or getting lost during the building phase.

Here's a pic:
.



As far as door struts go, I'm way ahead on that one . . .
.





Each door is individually controlled by a remote. (along with a lot of other stuff)

You can see I changed the original ventilated PSU side door to a XXL window door, and ordered the gunmetal case with 2 XXL windowed doors.

Darlene


----------



## darwing

Some more Final high res pics coming


----------



## KingJames

Its so discouraging seeing how awesome you guys are.


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingJames*
> 
> Its so discouraging seeing how awesome you guys are.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Kinda is, was Plastidipping my case and as I was ruining it I quickly pondered how I actually attempted to do this well and seeing the kind of work other people do and how they make things so much more amazing using actual paint which takes way more work to do well. I'm just like ugh, man, should I even be doing this?







Even worse is, it's Plastidip, I could totally just peel it all off and try again. Would be another 2-3 hours but I just got over it as most of the places I ruined will be covered by a radiator or motherboard anyway. My inherent laziness coming out for my build that I was mostly being "no compromises."


----------



## KingJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Kinda is, was Plastidipping my case and as I was ruining it I quickly pondered how I actually attempted to do this well and seeing the kind of work other people do and how they make things so much more amazing using actual paint which takes way more work to do well. I'm just like ugh, man, should I even be doing this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even worse is, it's Plastidip, I could totally just peel it all off and try again. Would be another 2-3 hours but I just got over it as most of the places I ruined will be covered by a radiator or motherboard anyway. My inherent laziness coming out for my build that I was mostly being "no compromises."


I recently started making an entertainment center out of wood with the top shelf being a PC case. I realized, after 10245 mistakes, that it's not as easy as I thought it would be.


----------



## emsj86

The key I knew but failed to realize is time and patient to make a good build. I don't have a ton of time so I try my best but normally end up having to rush because it's either late or having to clean up before my two year old comes running and grabbing things he shouldn't be. Either way still love doing it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> a little old school - EK top for dual DDC with 50mm reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> came with mountings in 5.25 bay


I have that top. Sans the Res. Woulda loved to have been able to get it before EoL made it impossible to find.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Hey guys does that look like corrosion on my blocks? Got the gtx 780ti matrix plat block from ekwb.
> 
> Been using pastel from EK as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Kina looks like Algae to me, not corrosion. That's how my copper block's fins looked when I got back to my system after my extended absence. How old is your coolant?









@Werm, NvrDull does bright work best IMHO, though I do use Brasso when dealing with coarse sharp surfaces. NvrDull wadding will hang up on cooling chamber fins.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Current Status of Build. Getting another fan (Exhaust) and Going to order the Pastel Blue Concentrate. Have been running it at 4.2Ghz / 1.2Core V






The Cautious one


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Hey guys does that look like corrosion on my blocks? Got the gtx 780ti matrix plat block from ekwb.
> 
> Been using pastel from EK as well.


bad coolant, EK blue at first and swiftech concentrate later


----------



## derickwm

More:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1554554/sponsored-xforma-mbx-mkii-5k-monitor-intel-5960x-rog-rve-all-liquid-cooled/230#post_23948932


----------



## kitg90

you've made normal clear tubing look immense


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> bad coolant


Looks like it's your first time watercooling. :S . mayhem has been around for a long long time to be called a bad coolant.


----------



## Dortheleus

Has anyone ever see heat activated colour change ink? Now that would be cool to have.


----------



## Hambone07si

Well its up and running








.. Still have some things to do, but the hard part is over. Strange thing is 10 fans running at 100% on my rads in this case is half as loud as 5 of the same fans running in the 540 air. Same exact fans too..

I'm also posting this off my phone and its even letting me upload a photoo, didn't know that was possible.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Looks like it's your first time watercooling. :S . mayhem has been around for a long long time to be called a bad coolant.


depends on your local distill water.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> 
> 
> Well its up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Still have some things to do, but the hard part is over. Strange thing is 10 fans running at 100% on my rads in this case is half as loud as 5 of the same fans running in the 540 air. Same exact fans too..
> 
> I'm also posting this off my phone and its even letting me upload a photoo, didn't know that was possible.


TOO MUCH SSD


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Trying new stuff with the airbrush...Im no Steve Nunez tho....

Need to knock the dust back and wet sand the edges of the red to fade them out better still then buckets of satin finish


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Trying new stuff with the airbrush...Im no Steve Nunez tho....
> 
> Need to knock the dust back and wet sand the edges of the red to fade them out better still then buckets of satin finish
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


it feels like the EK logo has two outer glows. green/yellowish and Red beneath it.


----------



## Hambone07si

Never too much ssd lol.. If there was more than 10 sata ports on my mobo there would be even more


----------



## bigboy678

do you mean something like this









http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/specialist-coolants/mayhems-chameleon


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> do you mean something like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/specialist-coolants/mayhems-chameleon


It doesnt work. I was one of the dev team that tested the idea,still got a ltr of it in the spare cupboard....


----------



## Hambone07si

I really like the way this thing turned out. These so much room in this case it's not even funny.. on the other side of my 480mm rad there's plenty of room for my 240mm PE too if I want.. Almost thinking of putting that in with just my EK 100ml X-Res 2.2 just on the mobo by itself. If that pump failed for some reason, at least the VRM's would still be fine because it would just then be air cooled from that block. Could run a single pump on that little loop and not worry one bit..

This case really allows you to hide all the wires very well, and I hid a few tube runs from the back to the front. I may redo the main tubes you can see in hard lines soon.. Also now that my mobo lays down, I'm kicking myself in the ass for buying this water block for my titan X.. Finally it would have been nice to have an acrylic side to see the coolant in the gpu.. Maybe I'll buy different blocks when I get a 2nd TX? Not like anyone would have trouble selling a EK block lol....


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I really like the way this thing turned out. These so much room in this case it's not even funny.. on the other side of my 480mm rad there's plenty of room for my 240mm PE too if I want.. Almost thinking of putting that in with just my EK 100ml X-Res 2.2 just on the mobo by itself. If that pump failed for some reason, at least the VRM's would still be fine because it would just then be air cooled from that block. Could run a single pump on that little loop and not worry one bit..
> 
> This case really allows you to hide all the wires very well, and I hid a few tube runs from the back to the front. I may redo the main tubes you can see in hard lines soon.. Also now that my mobo lays down, I'm kicking myself in the ass for buying this water block for my titan X.. Finally it would have been nice to have an acrylic side to see the coolant in the gpu.. Maybe I'll buy different blocks when I get a 2nd TX? Not like anyone would have trouble selling a EK block lol....


just buy actinic top


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Trying new stuff with the airbrush...Im no Steve Nunez tho....
> 
> Need to knock the dust back and wet sand the edges of the red to fade them out better still then buckets of satin finish
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How often do you have to clean you airbrush B? I mean, of course after each paint session but sometimes I need to dismount and cleaning after the paint in the holder run out and I refill it things are not that smooth and only a good cleaning will restore the airbrush to its peak. I am using very thin paint and following factory recommendation of air first-air last to avoid spills...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I really like the way this thing turned out. These so much room in this case it's not even funny.. on the other side of my 480mm rad there's plenty of room for my 240mm PE too if I want.. Almost thinking of putting that in with just my EK 100ml X-Res 2.2 just on the mobo by itself. If that pump failed for some reason, at least the VRM's would still be fine because it would just then be air cooled from that block. Could run a single pump on that little loop and not worry one bit..
> 
> This case really allows you to hide all the wires very well, and I hid a few tube runs from the back to the front. I may redo the main tubes you can see in hard lines soon.. Also now that my mobo lays down, I'm kicking myself in the ass for buying this water block for my titan X.. Finally it would have been nice to have an acrylic side to see the coolant in the gpu.. Maybe I'll buy different blocks when I get a 2nd TX? Not like anyone would have trouble selling a EK block lol....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that the Core X9? I been debating to switching my folder into one of those. Just not sure how big it is compare to the NZXT Apollo my folder is currently in.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> do you mean something like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/specialist-coolants/mayhems-chameleon


Ya something like that, but I would like it to go from dark to clear and vise-versa.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Trying new stuff with the airbrush...Im no Steve Nunez tho....
> 
> Need to knock the dust back and wet sand the edges of the red to fade them out better still then buckets of satin finish
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How often do you have to clean you airbrush B? I mean, of course after each paint session but sometimes I need to dismount and cleaning after the paint in the holder run out and I refill it things are not that smooth and only a good cleaning will restore the airbrush to its peak. I am using very thin paint and following factory recommendation of air first-air last to avoid spills...
Click to expand...

Cleaned at the end of the session and every change of colour,I use celly thinners as it just demolishes sticky paint. Try upping the pressure if you are getting blockages or thin the paint more,you could also strain the paint thru a filter if it has a lumpy viscosity


----------



## thedoo

Well build almost done, turned out pretty well I think. First time at rigid tubing, had some trouble with a few bends.



I am having some trouble with the drain though. I put a 'Q' fitting on the outlet of the pump, one end goes to the bottom GPU and the bottom of the fitting goes out for the drain. Open a fitting on the top of the reservoir and most of the loop drains fine. The tubing from the top radiator to the CPU and the CPU to the front radiator seems to refuse to drain at all.

I'm assuming it is because of my loop order? No place for gravity to force the water down towards the drain. Any ideas to help make the loop drain easier? Right now I'm pretty much forced to open a port on the front radiator and tilt it upside down to drain that section.


----------



## Hambone07si

Looks good thedoo ^^^ nice job!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Is that the Core X9? I been debating to switching my folder into one of those. Just not sure how big it is compare to the NZXT Apollo my folder is currently in.


Yeah, Core X9 custom painted red and black with some custom panels inside too for the ssd's. Tons of room and would be a great folding case for keeping it cool. Like I said earlier too, it's half as loud as my 540 air was with 5 fans on my rads, and now I have 10 of those fans on my rads now.

_________________________________

I'm kinda curious to something. With my new 4790K, I'm able to get 5ghz @ 1.300v stable no problems with 66c max load. That was in my 540 air case with a 240mm and 360mm rad. I just built my pc into a Core X9 case and now have 2x 360mm rads and a 480mm 60mm thick rad. I have over double the rad space now in this build. Temps could be even better at max loads or pushing harder.

My question is this tho. At 5ghz during stress testing, I see 146-151 watts being pulled. I only had the 8pin cpu power wire plugged into my Maximus 6 Formula mobo. The 8 pin only gives you 150w total. I couldn't get 5.1ghz stable with out going to 1.400v but then temps hit 78-80c during stress. Since that was in the back of my head, in this new build I plugged the extra 4 pin cpu power wire into my mobo and now that gives me 225w for the cpu. I'm curious if that would let me achieve a higher overclock without pushing as much Vcore since I won't be so close the the max of what I was giving my cpu in power.. That might be what was one of the factors of going past 5ghz easily. My chip will boot in at 5.2ghz with no problems at 1.350v but would fail stress fast. 1.400v at 5.2ghz would go about 5min then fail. Maybe I should try my overclocking again now that I have so much more cooling and extra cpu power.

Any thoughts??


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Looks good thedoo ^^^ nice job!!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Is that the Core X9? I been debating to switching my folder into one of those. Just not sure how big it is compare to the NZXT Apollo my folder is currently in.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, Core X9 custom painted red and black with some custom panels inside too for the ssd's. Tons of room and would be a great folding case for keeping it cool. Like I said earlier too, it's half as loud as my 540 air was with 5 fans on my rads, and now I have 10 of those fans on my rads now.
> 
> _________________________________
> 
> I'm kinda curious to something. With my new 4790K, I'm able to get 5ghz @ 1.300v stable no problems with 66c max load. That was in my 540 air case with a 240mm and 360mm rad. I just built my pc into a Core X9 case and now have 2x 360mm rads and a 480mm 60mm thick rad. I have over double the rad space now in this build. Temps could be even better at max loads or pushing harder.
> 
> My question is this tho. At 5ghz during stress testing, I see 146-151 watts being pulled. I only had the 8pin cpu power wire plugged into my Maximus 6 Formula mobo. *The 8 pin only gives you 150w total.* I couldn't get 5.1ghz stable with out going to 1.400v but then temps hit 78-80c during stress. Since that was in the back of my head, in this new build I plugged the extra 4 pin cpu power wire into my mobo and now that gives me 225w for the cpu. I'm curious if that would let me achieve a higher overclock without pushing as much Vcore since I won't be so close the the max of what I was giving my cpu in power.. That might be what was one of the factors of going past 5ghz easily. My chip will boot in at 5.2ghz with no problems at 1.350v but would fail stress fast. 1.400v at 5.2ghz would go about 5min then fail. Maybe I should try my overclocking again now that I have so much more cooling and extra cpu power.
> 
> Any thoughts??
Click to expand...

For PCI-e,Yes...EPS 8 pin can supply 300+w for CPU power,dependant on 12v load for the rest of the rig and balancing of load for multi rail PSU's


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For PCI-e,Yes...EPS 8 pin can supply 235w for CPU power.


hmm, kk. Still might give it a try now with the extra cooling on top of it. I'd really like to have 5.2ghz if I could









What about the pump speed on my D5 vario?? Now that I have this much rad space going on, what do you guys think would be the best speed on the pump? I personally like the faster flow and have set at 4 now, would less or more be better??


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For PCI-e,Yes...EPS 8 pin can supply 235w for CPU power.
> 
> 
> 
> hmm, kk. Still might give it a try now with the extra cooling on top of it. I'd really like to have 5.2ghz if I could
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about the pump speed on my D5 vario?? Now that I have this much rad space going on, what do you guys think would be the best speed on the pump? I personally like the faster flow and have set at 4 now, would less or more be better??
Click to expand...

Always more,set at the highest noise level you are willing to endure then leave it.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Always more,set at the highest noise level you are willing to endure then leave it.


Well in the new case I drilled holes in the front of the case and mounted it on the bracket that came with it. At full speed, it makes no more noise than it does at 2 then 5.. So, just go full then eh? Thanks. That's what I figured. Faster has always been better for me and I personally prefer it.


----------



## wermad

Any 5/8" od friction style hard fittings NOT monsoon? I have about 18' of 1/2x5/8 tube. I may get it exchanged for 3/8x1/2 if Eplastics can do me the favor (w/out receipt).


----------



## ctguy1955

I have been building my own PC's from parts now for many years. This is the first attempt I made at water cooling and while it works ok, my loop looks really terrible and I need to change some things to shorten all the tubing.

myWCrig.jpg 216k .jpg file


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ctguy1955*
> 
> I have been building my own PC's from parts now for many years. This is the first attempt I made at water cooling and while it works ok, my loop looks really terrible and I need to change some things to shorten all the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> myWCrig.jpg 216k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cthulhu has risen.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Cthulhu has risen.


----------



## iNen1

Hello guys, i was told by another user of this forum (Gabrielzm) that maybe you can help me. He has helped me try to pinpoint the issue, but we haven't come up with much.
My specs first.

- NZXT H440 Case (seems to be very restrictive for fans or airflow in general)
- Dual Titan X in SLI, with full cover EK-Waterblocks and backplates
- Intel 5820k with Phobya UC-2 Copper CPU block.
- PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2'' - 3/4'' (13mm-19mm) tubing
- 2x Koolance 30fpi 3x120mm radiators
- 6x Alphacool Susurro fans (3.88 mmH2O Air Pressure)
- Laing D5 pump with EK-Reservoir top.

Now, the tubing is installed correctly. I didn't mix up the Inlet and Outlet ports of the CPU block/pump, and the tubes have no kinks anywhere in the whole build. Waterflow seems to be ok, though i have no experience with that, since this is my first Watercooling build. The pump has been running on max setting for almost a month now, so i suspect all bubbles are flushed out of the GPU and CPU blocks.

So theoretically everything is seems ok, except for the temperatures. They seem a bit high to me. Idle temps are around 39°C for the GPUs and around 40-42° C for the CPU. When i stress test my CPU, it reaches almost 90° C on some cores. The GPU's are also quite hot as well, reaching 70-75°C when i stress test them with FurMark. Keep in mind i have overclocked both GPUs and CPU quite a bit, but the temperatures still seem a bit too hot for my taste (also compared to other watercooled setups).

I have a couple of pictures of my build here, maybe it can help you analyze what might be wrong. http://imgur.com/a/4XeD5

I am glad for any suggestions or help.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Hello guys, i was told by another user of this forum (Gabrielzm) that maybe you can help me. He has helped me try to pinpoint the issue, but we haven't come up with much.
> My specs first.
> 
> - NZXT H440 Case (seems to be very restrictive for fans or airflow in general)
> - Dual Titan X in SLI, with full cover EK-Waterblocks and backplates
> - Intel 5820k with Phobya UC-2 Copper CPU block.
> - PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2'' - 3/4'' (13mm-19mm) tubing
> - 2x Koolance 30fpi 3x120mm radiators
> - 6x Alphacool Susurro fans (3.88 mmH2O Air Pressure)
> - Laing D5 pump with EK-Reservoir top.
> 
> Now, the tubing is installed correctly. I didn't mix up the Inlet and Outlet ports of the CPU block/pump, and the tubes have no kinks anywhere in the whole build. Waterflow seems to be ok, though i have no experience with that, since this is my first Watercooling build. The pump has been running on max setting for almost a month now, so i suspect all bubbles are flushed out of the GPU and CPU blocks.
> 
> So theoretically everything is seems ok, except for the temperatures. They seem a bit high to me. Idle temps are around 39°C for the GPUs and around 40-42° C for the CPU. When i stress test my CPU, it reaches almost 90° C on some cores. The GPU's are also quite hot as well, reaching 70-75°C when i stress test them with FurMark. Keep in mind i have overclocked both GPUs and CPU quite a bit, but the temperatures still seem a bit too hot for my taste (also compared to other watercooled setups).
> 
> I have a couple of pictures of my build here, maybe it can help you analyze what might be wrong. http://imgur.com/a/4XeD5
> 
> I am glad for any suggestions or help.


Thermal paste contact


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Hello guys, i was told by another user of this forum (Gabrielzm) that maybe you can help me. He has helped me try to pinpoint the issue, but we haven't come up with much.
> My specs first.
> 
> - NZXT H440 Case (seems to be very restrictive for fans or airflow in general)
> - Dual Titan X in SLI, with full cover EK-Waterblocks and backplates
> - Intel 5820k with Phobya UC-2 Copper CPU block.
> - PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2'' - 3/4'' (13mm-19mm) tubing
> - 2x Koolance 30fpi 3x120mm radiators
> - 6x Alphacool Susurro fans (3.88 mmH2O Air Pressure)
> - Laing D5 pump with EK-Reservoir top.
> 
> Now, the tubing is installed correctly. I didn't mix up the Inlet and Outlet ports of the CPU block/pump, and the tubes have no kinks anywhere in the whole build. Waterflow seems to be ok, though i have no experience with that, since this is my first Watercooling build. The pump has been running on max setting for almost a month now, so i suspect all bubbles are flushed out of the GPU and CPU blocks.
> 
> So theoretically everything is seems ok, except for the temperatures. They seem a bit high to me. Idle temps are around 39°C for the GPUs and around 40-42° C for the CPU. When i stress test my CPU, it reaches almost 90° C on some cores. The GPU's are also quite hot as well, reaching 70-75°C when i stress test them with FurMark. Keep in mind i have overclocked both GPUs and CPU quite a bit, but the temperatures still seem a bit too hot for my taste (also compared to other watercooled setups).
> 
> I have a couple of pictures of my build here, maybe it can help you analyze what might be wrong. http://imgur.com/a/4XeD5
> 
> I am glad for any suggestions or help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thermal paste contact


Yep. But to be sure make the simple test I suggested for you before. Put a thermometer on the reservoir with the pump running. If the water temp is down to 25-40 C but cpu and gpu are showing high temps then the most likely culprit are bad mounts on the blocks... It is a simple test and very fast to do it without messing with anything in the loop. In any case don't use furmark to stress you gpu. Play a game for 10 minutes and check the temps....


----------



## iNen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thermal paste contact


I put a lot of thermal paste on my GPUs (like it says here in the EK manual (Step 3) http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830567.pdf). Do you think that's the issue? if so, i used the "Pea sized thermal paste" method on my CPU, yet it seems to run quite hot as well.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> I put a lot of thermal paste on my GPUs (like it says here in the EK manual (Step 3) http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109830567.pdf). Do you think that's the issue? if so, i used the "Pea sized thermal paste" method on my CPU, yet it seems to run quite hot as well.


it's not the amount that might be the issue. it might be the mounting itself. like the screws are not tight enough to have a great contact.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Hello guys, i was told by another user of this forum (Gabrielzm) that maybe you can help me. He has helped me try to pinpoint the issue, but we haven't come up with much.
> My specs first.
> 
> - NZXT H440 Case (seems to be very restrictive for fans or airflow in general)
> - Dual Titan X in SLI, with full cover EK-Waterblocks and backplates
> - Intel 5820k with Phobya UC-2 Copper CPU block.
> - PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2'' - 3/4'' (13mm-19mm) tubing
> - 2x Koolance 30fpi 3x120mm radiators
> - 6x Alphacool Susurro fans (3.88 mmH2O Air Pressure)
> - Laing D5 pump with EK-Reservoir top.
> 
> Now, the tubing is installed correctly. I didn't mix up the Inlet and Outlet ports of the CPU block/pump, and the tubes have no kinks anywhere in the whole build. Waterflow seems to be ok, though i have no experience with that, since this is my first Watercooling build. The pump has been running on max setting for almost a month now, so i suspect all bubbles are flushed out of the GPU and CPU blocks.
> 
> So theoretically everything is seems ok, except for the temperatures. They seem a bit high to me. Idle temps are around 39°C for the GPUs and around 40-42° C for the CPU. When i stress test my CPU, it reaches almost 90° C on some cores. The GPU's are also quite hot as well, reaching 70-75°C when i stress test them with FurMark. Keep in mind i have overclocked both GPUs and CPU quite a bit, but the temperatures still seem a bit too hot for my taste (also compared to other watercooled setups).
> 
> I have a couple of pictures of my build here, maybe it can help you analyze what might be wrong. http://imgur.com/a/4XeD5
> 
> I am glad for any suggestions or help.


30 fpi rads in an air starved case.
buy a case better suited to water cooling. if this isnt what you want to do, cut some air holes.
this guy did it right:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1508896/build-log-nzxt-h440-project-blackthunder#post_22743482


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Hello guys, i was told by another user of this forum (Gabrielzm) that maybe you can help me. He has helped me try to pinpoint the issue, but we haven't come up with much.
> My specs first.
> 
> - NZXT H440 Case (seems to be very restrictive for fans or airflow in general)
> - Dual Titan X in SLI, with full cover EK-Waterblocks and backplates
> - Intel 5820k with Phobya UC-2 Copper CPU block.
> - PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2'' - 3/4'' (13mm-19mm) tubing
> - 2x Koolance 30fpi 3x120mm radiators
> - 6x Alphacool Susurro fans (3.88 mmH2O Air Pressure)
> - Laing D5 pump with EK-Reservoir top.
> 
> Now, the tubing is installed correctly. I didn't mix up the Inlet and Outlet ports of the CPU block/pump, and the tubes have no kinks anywhere in the whole build. Waterflow seems to be ok, though i have no experience with that, since this is my first Watercooling build. The pump has been running on max setting for almost a month now, so i suspect all bubbles are flushed out of the GPU and CPU blocks.
> 
> So theoretically everything is seems ok, except for the temperatures. They seem a bit high to me. Idle temps are around 39°C for the GPUs and around 40-42° C for the CPU. When i stress test my CPU, it reaches almost 90° C on some cores. The GPU's are also quite hot as well, reaching 70-75°C when i stress test them with FurMark. Keep in mind i have overclocked both GPUs and CPU quite a bit, but the temperatures still seem a bit too hot for my taste (also compared to other watercooled setups).
> 
> I have a couple of pictures of my build here, maybe it can help you analyze what might be wrong. http://imgur.com/a/4XeD5
> 
> I am glad for any suggestions or help.


What is your ambient temp in C? What kind of thermal compund are you using? What stress test for your cpu, and what freq and voltage?


----------



## iNen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. But to be sure make the simple test I suggested for you before. Put a thermometer on the reservoir with the pump running. If the water temp is down to 25-40 C but cpu and gpu are showing high temps then the most likely culprit are bad mounts on the blocks... It is a simple test and very fast to do it without messing with anything in the loop. In any case don't use furmark to stress you gpu. Play a game for 10 minutes and check the temps....


I sadly don't have a thermometer at home, so i can't really do that test. I will get a temp sensor and a flow meter later this week, and drain everything this weekend. Seems like the only option so far.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> it's not the amount that might be the issue. it might be the mounting itself. like the screws are not tight enough to have a great contact.


Yeah i'll look into it. Will be taking it all apart this weekend.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 30 fpi rads in an air starved case.
> buy a case better suited to water cooling. if this isnt what you want to do, cut some air holes.
> this guy did it right:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1508896/build-log-nzxt-h440-project-blackthunder#post_22743482


Well i had no idea really, it was my first watercooling build and i kinda just stumbled into it. I bought a lot of bad fittings, clamps, tubes, reservoirs until i manged to assemble the cramped up, messy build you see in the album in my first post. Buying a new case is not a option tho, at least for now. I don't plan to invest big into this computer again until some new exciting hardware comes out (nVidia Pascal or AMD 400 series). It cost me a lot and i have to save up some cash.

But yeah, in hindsight it was quite stupid. Also, do you think the case is the sole reason for those high temps? Seemingly we're talking about a 20° C difference to other watercooling builds. Seems like a lot.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Hello guys, i was told by another user of this forum (Gabrielzm) that maybe you can help me. He has helped me try to pinpoint the issue, but we haven't come up with much.
> My specs first.
> 
> - NZXT H440 Case (seems to be very restrictive for fans or airflow in general)
> - Dual Titan X in SLI, with full cover EK-Waterblocks and backplates
> - Intel 5820k with Phobya UC-2 Copper CPU block.
> - PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2'' - 3/4'' (13mm-19mm) tubing
> - 2x Koolance 30fpi 3x120mm radiators
> - 6x Alphacool Susurro fans (3.88 mmH2O Air Pressure)
> - Laing D5 pump with EK-Reservoir top.
> 
> Now, the tubing is installed correctly. I didn't mix up the Inlet and Outlet ports of the CPU block/pump, and the tubes have no kinks anywhere in the whole build. Waterflow seems to be ok, though i have no experience with that, since this is my first Watercooling build. The pump has been running on max setting for almost a month now, so i suspect all bubbles are flushed out of the GPU and CPU blocks.
> 
> So theoretically everything is seems ok, except for the temperatures. They seem a bit high to me. Idle temps are around 39°C for the GPUs and around 40-42° C for the CPU. When i stress test my CPU, it reaches almost 90° C on some cores. The GPU's are also quite hot as well, reaching 70-75°C when i stress test them with FurMark. Keep in mind i have overclocked both GPUs and CPU quite a bit, but the temperatures still seem a bit too hot for my taste (also compared to other watercooled setups).
> 
> I have a couple of pictures of my build here, maybe it can help you analyze what might be wrong. http://imgur.com/a/4XeD5
> 
> I am glad for any suggestions or help.


I'm no expert, but I don't understand the way the GPUs are connected, is it serial, or parallel, or what? What is the loop order?


----------



## iNen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> What is your ambient temp in C? What kind of thermal compund are you using? What stress test for your cpu, and what freq and voltage?


Ambient temperature has been around 18 - 20° C these past few days. I used the EK-Thermal paste that came with my GPU block, for both the GPUs and CPU, i think it's this one http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/thermal-interface-materials/thermal-greases/ek-tim-ectotherm-5g.html.

I used the ASUS Rog stress test for my CPU, at 4.3 Ghz at 1.35v (PC won't start up if i put voltage under 1.3, even at such low clocks). I think i must've gotten a very bad CPU.

FurMark for GPU's, both overclocked by 200Mhz, voltage hasn't been touched.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I'm no expert, but I don't understand the way the GPUs are connected, is it serial, or parallel, or what? What is the loop order?


The GPU's are connected parallel. The loop order is as follows

Pump into Front Rad into GPUs into Top rad into CPU into Pump.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I'm no expert, but I don't understand the way the GPUs are connected, is it serial, or parallel, or what? What is the loop order?


It looks like every other parallel set-up i've seen.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Ambient temperature has been around 18 - 20° C these past few days. I used the EK-Thermal paste that came with my GPU block, for both the GPUs and CPU, i think it's this one http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/thermal-interface-materials/thermal-greases/ek-tim-ectotherm-5g.html.
> 
> I used the ASUS Rog stress test for my CPU, at 4.3 Ghz at 1.35v (PC won't start up if i put voltage under 1.3, even at such low clocks). I think i must've gotten a very bad CPU.
> 
> FurMark for GPU's, both overclocked by 200Mhz, voltage hasn't been touched.
> The GPU's are connected parallel. The loop order is as follows
> 
> Pump into Front Rad into GPUs into Top rad into CPU into Pump.


I do not have experience with that case, so I don't know how easily the top and front panels are to remove, but one test you could do is remove the panels so the fans are not obstructed and then see what the load temps are.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Ambient temperature has been around 18 - 20° C these past few days. I used the EK-Thermal paste that came with my GPU block, for both the GPUs and CPU, i think it's this one http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/thermal-interface-materials/thermal-greases/ek-tim-ectotherm-5g.html.
> 
> I used the ASUS Rog stress test for my CPU, at 4.3 Ghz at 1.35v (PC won't start up if i put voltage under 1.3, even at such low clocks). I think i must've gotten a very bad CPU.


It really sounds like bad thermal compund/application to me too. The only other thing is if your flowrate is too slow you could see bad temps. I don't think it has anything to do with your rads. At 20C ambient you should be below 30C easy for idle temps.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> But yeah, in hindsight it was quite stupid. Also, do you think the case is the sole reason for those high temps? Seemingly we're talking about a 20° C difference to other watercooling builds. Seems like a lot.


it wasnt stupid. you didnt know your future plans.
that nilin404 dropped about 15*C from his temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilin404*
> 
> Before, I could not oc my cpu (i7 4770k) to 4.5 ghz. It was really running hot about 80 degree under load. After I mod it, it is now sit at 65 degree under load all day. The gpu stay cool as ice 36-40 degree under load. I have fans pulling air from top and front and exhaust it at the rear with 140mm vortex cougar.
> 
> I'm really happy how it turn out but the only thing I regret is this case is really starving for air without doing mod on it. The fan grills that I bought are not cheap at all and I'm kinda not happy about that but the sleek design of the case is what made me bought it...


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> It looks like every other parallel set-up i've seen.


that's why I'm no expert, hehe, was looking at it wrong on my small cell screen.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Ambient temperature has been around 18 - 20° C these past few days. I used the EK-Thermal paste that came with my GPU block, for both the GPUs and CPU, i think it's this one http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/thermal-interface-materials/thermal-greases/ek-tim-ectotherm-5g.html.
> 
> I used the ASUS Rog stress test for my CPU, at 4.3 Ghz at 1.35v (PC won't start up if i put voltage under 1.3, even at such low clocks). I think i must've gotten a very bad CPU.
> 
> FurMark for GPU's, both overclocked by 200Mhz, voltage hasn't been touched.
> The GPU's are connected parallel. The loop order is as follows
> 
> Pump into Front Rad into GPUs into Top rad into CPU into Pump.


Gotta go with the masses here, either blocks aren't making good contact or TIM isn't good maybe...


----------



## pc-illiterate

wh0kn0ws is right. pull off the top and front panels and check your temps. 30fpi rads require massive airflow and unfortunately the h440 is built for quietness not airflow or water cooling. youll notice a huge difference in temps once the fans can feed the rads enough air.


----------



## mus1mus

One quick way to check is feel the air coming out of the rads or feel the temperature of the coolant on the reservoir. If your GPUs are hitting 70C, and you could assume your coolant temp to be near that.

1. Coolant noticeably warm = warm air off the rads = warm temps = lack of air flow though the rads = not enough rad space.

2. Coolant cold; Slight difference in temps from rads to ambient temps; - Bad Mount.

I'd lean towards scenario 1. Either lack of air flow that causes the temps to sky rocket or lack of rad space. But I won't discount bad mount either.


----------



## emsj86

@iNen1 I would start off making sure that the thermal paste for both cpu and Gpus were done correct. Second is what our you testing the cpu on. For me (4790k) on occt or Aida64 I get under 70 full load for hours. But prime pushes to 85-90. And intel burn test pushes 75-85 degrees. Start with the basics than work your way up. If that fails make sure your system is free of air by tilting on it's side (psu jumped outbid course and wires disconnected expect the pump ) start there than also when filling up the return to your res take a video. Should give some idea of flow watching the coolant return to the res. if there is barely any flow than it's probably an air or restriction issuse , but basics first. Just my opinion. I'm no top expert just what I learned from the nice gentlemen here. Also as stated before remove panels is a quick and easy ray to seeing the issuse is mainly with the case


----------



## Gabrielzm

Well fans are getting ready for Grey Matter. Decision of the final color was made by my 3 years old daughter. I like it, it is a gunmetal but lighter.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really starting to love bending acrylic,


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Well fans are getting ready for Grey Matter. Decision of the final color was made by my 3 years old daughter. I like it, it is a gunmetal but lighter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks 10,000% better than stock. I hate mine now.









Are you going to sleeve them to the motor? It seems like people aren't doing that as much lately. I find it a zen process and I like the look.


----------



## Hambone07si

I decided to light up the coolant in the Xres


----------



## DarthBaggins

No Leaks!!!!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I decided to light up the coolant in the Xres


What did you use to light it?


----------



## 1Quickchic

Snef that build of yours I'd amazing, major props on that man!!!


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Hello guys, i was told by another user of this forum (Gabrielzm) that maybe you can help me. He has helped me try to pinpoint the issue, but we haven't come up with much.
> My specs first.
> 
> - NZXT H440 Case (seems to be very restrictive for fans or airflow in general)
> - Dual Titan X in SLI, with full cover EK-Waterblocks and backplates
> - Intel 5820k with *Phobya UC-2 Copper CPU block* *<<-- SERIOUSLY DUDE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2'' - 3/4'' (13mm-19mm) tubing
> - 2x Koolance 30fpi 3x120mm radiators
> - 6x Alphacool Susurro fans (3.88 mmH2O Air Pressure)
> - Laing D5 pump with EK-Reservoir top.
> 
> Now, the tubing is installed correctly. I didn't mix up the Inlet and Outlet ports of the CPU block/pump, and the tubes have no kinks anywhere in the whole build. Waterflow seems to be ok, though i have no experience with that, since this is my first Watercooling build. The pump has been running on max setting for almost a month now, so i suspect all bubbles are flushed out of the GPU and CPU blocks.
> 
> So theoretically everything is seems ok, except for the temperatures. They seem a bit high to me. Idle temps are around 39°C for the GPUs and around 40-42° C for the CPU. When i stress test my CPU, it reaches *almost 90° C on some cores // OF COURSE YOU WILL GET BAD TEMPS YOU`VE A CHEAP COOLER. TITAN X SLI BUT PHOBYA AS CPU COOLER. WHY DONT YOU INVEST IN A BETTER COOLER?*. The GPU's are also quite hot as well, reaching 70-75°C when i stress test them with FurMark. Keep in mind i have overclocked both GPUs and CPU quite a bit, but the temperatures still seem a bit too hot for my taste (also compared to other watercooled setups).
> 
> I have a couple of pictures of my build here, maybe it can help you analyze what might be wrong. http://imgur.com/a/4XeD5
> 
> I am glad for any suggestions or help.


But your building is amazin. I like the green and yeahh have fun with TX!


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> What did you use to light it?


Found a 3 Led pod that I had layin around. Put a small piece of 2 sided black foam for a pump to not vibrate on the side of the pod and tie wrapped the wire in so that it would stay in place well. It only shines into the res and doesn't affect the red glow inside the rest of the case. Personally I always loved the color of blue coolant no matter what the theme of my builds, just personally preference. Was thinking of going with red coolant in this build, but none was on hand when needing to fill it and plain distilled just looks to boring to me in a res lol. Then found the led late last night and put it up to the res and liked it, so it was mounted and I'm pretty happy with it for now. Who knows, may flush and go red soon. Just need to order some now that the holiday weekend is over.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> No Leaks!!!!


Excellent work!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ctguy1955*
> 
> I have been building my own PC's from parts now for many years. This is the first attempt I made at water cooling and while it works ok, my loop looks really terrible and I need to change some things to shorten all the tubing.
> 
> myWCrig.jpg 216k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


welcome to the Cult. . errr I mean club, , , lol







and for me I'm more of a Function over Form kind of person, but it is nice when they meet









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Excellent work!


Thanks, do plan on cleaning everything up and taking some proper photos after I make sure linux is loaded and will function in RAID 0 properly


----------



## fisher6

Does anyone know if there is a 240 45mm thick radiator that has a drain port in the bottom. I'm looking for one to mount in the front of my Define S when it arrives and attach a drain port at the bottom but can't find anything.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a 240 45mm thick radiator that has a drain port in the bottom. I'm looking for one to mount in the front of my Define S when it arrives and attach a drain port at the bottom but can't find anything.


Alphacool nexxxos xt-45


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Alphacool nexxxos xt-45


I have been looking at the nexxxos series but they don't seem to have ports on both ends. Only 6 ports on one side. At least for the 240mm one.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I have been looking at the nexxxos series but they don't seem to have ports on both ends. Only 6 ports on one side. At least for the 240mm one.


Youre right, sorry. Was thinking of the 280mm xt-45.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Youre right, sorry. Was thinking of the 280mm xt-45.


No worries. Guess I will just add the drain port after the pump outlet but it wouldn't exactly be the lowest point in the loop.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Looks 10,000% better than stock. I hate mine now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to sleeve them to the motor? It seems like people aren't doing that as much lately. I find it a zen process and I like the look.










Thanks mate. No, I kind of like the wires in black paint so no plan on sleeving it. But I made the mistake of breaking 4 of those plastic clips that hold the wires in place.If anyone known where I can order replacement for those I would appreciate...

some rad+fans shots:


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> No worries. Guess I will just add the drain port after the pump outlet but it wouldn't exactly be the lowest point in the loop.


You don't always have to have it at the very lowest point in the case. If you can put something off to the side, still low as you can, you can tilt the case to the one side and that will make that point the lowest in the loop and still drain almost all the fluids. Gpu blocks always seem to keep some in, and depending how your rads are setup, it's just not always possible to get it all out but most will.

My new build has a quad 480mm 60mm thick at the bottom of the case laying long ways and the 2 outlets are facing up. That will never drain with how it's mounted no matter where I put my drain port. Wish my rad had ports on both sides at the one end, that would of made it great. Drain systems are very nice to have especially if you are swapping parts out quite a bit like I do. But, it's really not that bad either since it won't leak out of that rad once I drain most of the coolant. As long as I'm using the same coolant again, it won't be any issue. If I'm changing colors then I'll have a problem and will need to flush it. Even then tho, just unhook the 2 tubes going to that rad and hook up a external pump and tubes and then I could flush it pretty easy and put back in the loop again. There's always a way


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Loop cut and in,need to pull them all and bench polish the tubing,airbrush with a red candy finish and tweak a couple of the lines for perfect alignment before final fitting.
Nice and clean,simple and gives a perfect view of the hardware inside.Very happy with the layout!

And yes,I lost one of the o-rings for the 290x block,this is why the cover for the VRM bridge is off.....more incoming!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop cut and in,need to pull them all and bench polish the tubing,airbrush with a red candy finish and tweak a couple of the lines for perfect alignment before final fitting.
> Nice and clean,simple and gives a perfect view of the hardware inside.Very happy with the layout!
> 
> And yes,I lost one of the o-rings for the 290x block,this is why the cover for the VRM bridge is off.....more incoming!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Copper tubing FTW! Can't wait to get my project started


----------



## iNen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wh0kn0ws is right. pull off the top and front panels and check your temps. 30fpi rads require massive airflow and unfortunately the h440 is built for quietness not airflow or water cooling. youll notice a huge difference in temps once the fans can feed the rads enough air.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> One quick way to check is feel the air coming out of the rads or feel the temperature of the coolant on the reservoir. If your GPUs are hitting 70C, and you could assume your coolant temp to be near that.
> 
> 1. Coolant noticeably warm = warm air off the rads = warm temps = lack of air flow though the rads = not enough rad space.
> 
> 2. Coolant cold; Slight difference in temps from rads to ambient temps; - Bad Mount.
> 
> I'd lean towards scenario 1. Either lack of air flow that causes the temps to sky rocket or lack of rad space. But I won't discount bad mount either.


Ok this is just stupid... and i feel super dumb for not having done this test earlier. The results are, for me at least, shocking. I ran FurMark for 15 minutes, both cards were at 93%+ Load *and the temperatures never exceeded 51°C on one card and 50° C on the other*







. That is a 20° C difference, just for pulling the top and front panel off.

Wow, i feel like i've wasted your time guys, especially from some of the users that put a lot of effort into their posts ( Gabrielzm and Orthello come to mind) to try and find what was the problem.

Once either nVidias Pascal GPUs or AMDs 400 series comes out, the first thing that i will upgrade is surely this case. I like style over function, but this is unreasonable. This is something not even i can accept. 20° C degrees, my lord.

Thanks to all of you guys who were trying to find a solution to my problem, i really appreciate it a lot. Many of you were kind enough to help a new user, i feel this is a awesome community. I learned a lot of stuff from your posts these past days that i will make sure to apply to my next build. Thanks a lot guys


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Ok this is just stupid... and i feel super dumb for not having done this test earlier. The results are, for me at least, shocking. I ran FurMark for 15 minutes, both cards were at 93%+ Load *and the temperatures never exceeded 51°C on one card and 50° C on the other*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That is a 20° C difference, just for pulling the top and front panel off.
> 
> Wow, i feel like i've wasted your time guys, especially from some of the users that put a lot of effort into their posts ( Gabrielzm and Orthello come to mind) to try and find what was the problem.
> 
> Once either nVidias Pascal GPUs or AMDs 400 series comes out, the first thing that i will upgrade is surely this case. I like style over function, but this is unreasonable. This is something not even i can accept. 20° C degrees, my lord.
> 
> Thanks to all of you guys who were trying to find a solution to my problem, i really appreciate it a lot. Many of you were kind enough to help a new user, i feel this is a awesome community. I learned a lot of stuff from your posts these past days that i will make sure to apply to my next build. Thanks a lot guys


Glad was this and that you found it. However, just don´t use furmark to stress your gpu...Try a game for 10 minutes without the cover and check again GPU temps. I would expect your temps would be around 40 C on the GPU.

@B NEGATIVE just beautiful mate. I love it


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop cut and in,need to pull them all and bench polish the tubing,airbrush with a red candy finish and tweak a couple of the lines for perfect alignment before final fitting.
> Nice and clean,simple and gives a perfect view of the hardware inside.Very happy with the layout!
> 
> And yes,I lost one of the o-rings for the 290x block,this is why the cover for the VRM bridge is off.....more incoming!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks amazing! Do you think you'll have any flow issues to the cpu?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Can someone with a Bitspower Tank Z reservoir measure the tank clamps for me? I need to know how much distance they extend the res away from the bottom of the clamp.

Thanks


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop cut and in,need to pull them all and bench polish the tubing,airbrush with a red candy finish and tweak a couple of the lines for perfect alignment before final fitting.
> Nice and clean,simple and gives a perfect view of the hardware inside.Very happy with the layout!
> 
> And yes,I lost one of the o-rings for the 290x block,this is why the cover for the VRM bridge is off.....more incoming!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


B-neg, that is flat out awesome. I love the way you routed your copper.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Loop cut and in,need to pull them all and bench polish the tubing,airbrush with a red candy finish and tweak a couple of the lines for perfect alignment before final fitting.
> Nice and clean,simple and gives a perfect view of the hardware inside.Very happy with the layout!
> 
> And yes,I lost one of the o-rings for the 290x block,this is why the cover for the VRM bridge is off.....more incoming!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B-neg, that is flat out awesome. I love the way you routed your copper.
Click to expand...

I have made this loop in defiance of all common loop design principles,restrictive,fully parallel,res at the bottom,minimal rad space..

This is as much of an experiment as it is a build,the end results should be a nice addition to what we already know.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have made this loop in defiance of all common loop design principles,restrictive,fully parallel,res at the bottom,minimal rad space..
> 
> This is as much of an experiment as it is a build,the end results should be a nice addition to what we already know.


it is good to break the mold once in a while...I look forward to your results as I am going to making the switch to hardline in the near future. I love to see more options when it comes to routing tubing.


----------



## fisher6

Quick question, do you guys recommend using regular or 90 degrees fittings for rads mounted in the front of a case and plugs in the top of the rad? I'm unsure about which one would look better.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Looks 10,000% better than stock. I hate mine now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to sleeve them to the motor? It seems like people aren't doing that as much lately. I find it a zen process and I like the look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks mate. No, I kind of like the wires in black paint so no plan on sleeving it. But I made the mistake of breaking 4 of those plastic clips that hold the wires in place.If anyone known where I can order replacement for those I would appreciate...
> 
> some rad+fans shots:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Love that color.








It's been a couple of years since I last did painted rads in a build...you make me wanna get back into it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Love that color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been a couple of years since I last did painted rads in a build...you make me wanna get back into it.










thks mate. Specially because was my 3 years old daughter choice...I gave her the option between a more regular grey and this gunmetal and she did n´t have to think much and was quite positive about her preference.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Looks 10,000% better than stock. I hate mine now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to sleeve them to the motor? It seems like people aren't doing that as much lately. I find it a zen process and I like the look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks mate. No, I kind of like the wires in black paint so no plan on sleeving it. But I made the mistake of breaking 4 of those plastic clips that hold the wires in place.If anyone known where I can order replacement for those I would appreciate...
> 
> some rad+fans shots:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Love that color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been a couple of years since I last did painted rads in a build...you make me wanna get back into it.
Click to expand...

Where have you been hiding?


----------



## thedoo

Finished Define S build:

Asus Sabertooth X99
Intel 5930k
2 - Titan X SLI

EK Blocks, CPU, GPU
EK Res/Pump
EK Vardar F4-120
Alphacool XT45 Rads, 240 up top, 360 in front
Primochill PETG, and Ghost Compression fittings
Misc. Bitspower adapters
Mayhems Pastel Orange


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Finished Define S build:
> 
> Asus Sabertooth X99
> Intel 5930k
> 2 - Titan X SLI
> 
> EK Blocks, CPU, GPU
> EK Res/Pump
> EK Vardar F4-120
> Alphacool XT45 Rads, 240 up top, 360 in front
> Primochill PETG, and Ghost Compression fittings
> Misc. Bitspower adapters
> Mayhems Pastel Orange


i like this layout... i might steal it. Will you forgive me?

I've a question for you. have you had issues with the Primochill insert? i'm having issues with mine.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i like this layout... i might steal it. Will you forgive me?
> 
> I've a question for you. have you had issues with the Primochill insert? i'm having issues with mine.


I didn't get the Primochill insert, I used the Monsoon bending kit, came with its own. Didn't have any problems with the Monsoon insert though.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Finished Define S build:
> 
> Asus Sabertooth X99
> Intel 5930k
> 2 - Titan X SLI
> 
> EK Blocks, CPU, GPU
> EK Res/Pump
> EK Vardar F4-120
> Alphacool XT45 Rads, 240 up top, 360 in front
> Primochill PETG, and Ghost Compression fittings
> Misc. Bitspower adapters
> Mayhems Pastel Orange
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm loving the orange, it turned out great!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Looks 10,000% better than stock. I hate mine now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to sleeve them to the motor? It seems like people aren't doing that as much lately. I find it a zen process and I like the look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks mate. No, I kind of like the wires in black paint so no plan on sleeving it. But I made the mistake of breaking 4 of those plastic clips that hold the wires in place.If anyone known where I can order replacement for those I would appreciate...
> 
> some rad+fans shots:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Love that color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been a couple of years since I last did painted rads in a build...you make me wanna get back into it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Where have you been hiding?
Click to expand...



Just been around.


----------



## Ceadderman

Isn't the PC insert hollow? Can't say I would even contemplate using that.









Hi gais.









~Ceadder


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I picked up a Bitspower mini valve to add to my new loop to aid with draining it when needed. What I'm trying to figure out though would be the best location for the valve itself.

If I put a t-fitting on the intlet port of my Aqualis D5 Pump/Res and attach the valve to the end sticking out of the t-fitting would that actually work as a good drain spot for the loop? I'm going to be using a Fractal Define S, so the pump/res should theoretically be the lowest point in my loop. The rads will be one up top and one standing up in the front. The last time I setup a loop I was using a T-fitting as a drain port itself, and tried to run it to the lowest point in the loop but it just sort of hung there and I assume was pretty bad for my flow rate so I really want to attach the valve to something this time around rather than just have it hanging off the tubing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lowest point works best.









~Ceadder


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lowest point works best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Would putting it on the inlet port be a good idea though? If I wanted to drain it, would most of the water just end up back in the reservoir?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lowest point works best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would putting it on the inlet port be a good idea though? If I wanted to drain it, would most of the water just end up back in the reservoir?
Click to expand...

I put my drains on outlet using a T fitting with the loop flow uninterrupted and the drain at the bottom of the T. This way no eddy will impede flow.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im not a fan of the colours but that loop has nice routing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Isn't the PC insert hollow? Can't say I would even contemplate using that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi gais.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I use a hollow insert,iI kinda prefer it tbh


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I'd like to talk about chrome plating an water cooling for a quick second. Would there be negative side affects if I had a full copper block electroless or electrolytic (whichever is preferred for water cooling) chrome plated? Just curious.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'd like to talk about chrome plating an water cooling for a quick second. Would there be negative side affects if I had a full copper block electroless or electrolytic (whichever is preferred for water cooling) chrome plated? Just curious.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


No problems at all,make sure the plater knows his stuff and get it done to corrosion resistance thickness,not a cosmetic strike.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'd like to talk about chrome plating an water cooling for a quick second. Would there be negative side affects if I had a full copper block electroless or electrolytic (whichever is preferred for water cooling) chrome plated? Just curious.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> No problems at all,make sure the plater knows his stuff and get it done to corrosion resistance thickness,not a cosmetic strike.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks! +rep


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I put my drains on outlet using a T fitting with the loop flow uninterrupted and the drain at the bottom of the T. This way no eddy will impede flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Interesting. So how do you drain the loop, by turning the pump on with the valve open?

Thanks for the help


----------



## wermad

When the whole ek nickel situation happened, i looked into getting my blocks re-plated. For water applications, all shops recommended electrode-less plating. Even one guy said its what they do for applications w/ moving liquids for industrial clients. Its a little more expensive (probably $10 per block) and all said the shine isn't as bright as standard electrode plating.

Just an fyi.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I put my drains on outlet using a T fitting with the loop flow uninterrupted and the drain at the bottom of the T. This way no eddy will impede flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. So how do you drain the loop, by turning the pump on with the valve open?
> 
> Thanks for the help
Click to expand...

Gravity does the work. No need to turn your pump on at all.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Ok this is just stupid... and i feel super dumb for not having done this test earlier. The results are, for me at least, shocking. I ran FurMark for 15 minutes, both cards were at 93%+ Load *and the temperatures never exceeded 51°C on one card and 50° C on the other*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That is a 20° C difference, just for pulling the top and front panel off.
> 
> Wow, i feel like i've wasted your time guys, especially from some of the users that put a lot of effort into their posts ( Gabrielzm and Orthello come to mind) to try and find what was the problem.
> 
> Once either nVidias Pascal GPUs or AMDs 400 series comes out, the first thing that i will upgrade is surely this case. I like style over function, but this is unreasonable. This is something not even i can accept. 20° C degrees, my lord.
> 
> Thanks to all of you guys who were trying to find a solution to my problem, i really appreciate it a lot. Many of you were kind enough to help a new user, i feel this is a awesome community. I learned a lot of stuff from your posts these past days that i will make sure to apply to my next build. Thanks a lot guys


im glad you found the cause. i cant believe gabz didnt figure it out...
isnt it amazing what a pile of turd that case is for water cooling?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im glad you found the cause. i cant believe gabz didnt figure it out...
> isnt it amazing what a pile of turd that case is for water cooling?


Did not know that case is that bad in terms of airflow...This all started in TXs club and after giving him some choices there to check if loop was running properly (flow, temp, airflow) I recommended to bring here since this is the WC lair after all and others would perhaps spot something. I am glad you guys did spot it since I was not aware of that case awful airflow. I learned too which seems to be the case (pun intended) on OCN daily.







Still think 51 C is too much for those cards however and I hope he gets a flow meter and temp sensor just to be able to have a indicator of system health...


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

To everyone that helped with the leak issue, I am really hoping to have a really good update tomorrow on the situation.

Now, both computers have developed some form of very slow leak at the GPU link fittings. I should have the updated tubes tomorrow of Thursday so that I can get everything online after switching them out in Both systems.

I greatly appreciate everyone that has helped me with this and will update as soon as I know something.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> When the whole ek nickel situation happened, i looked into getting my blocks re-plated. For water applications, all shops recommended electrode-less plating. Even one guy said its what they do for applications w/ moving liquids for industrial clients. Its a little more expensive (probably $10 per block) and all said the shine isn't as bright as standard electrode plating.
> 
> Just an fyi.


I believe the end shine also has to do with how well the surface was prepared before the piece is put in the bath. If the piece has been polished well before it is put in the bath, then it should come out as shiny. That's what I recall the guy I took some stuff to to get plated to said. I didn't know about the different thicknesses so he only did decorative plating so it corroded but I remember him mentioning that about surface prep.


----------



## wermad

Prepping will save you headaches down the road.

I'll be pulling my loop soon and I may take a quick peek under the hood







.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Finished Define S build:
> 
> Asus Sabertooth X99
> Intel 5930k
> 2 - Titan X SLI
> 
> EK Blocks, CPU, GPU
> EK Res/Pump
> EK Vardar F4-120
> Alphacool XT45 Rads, 240 up top, 360 in front
> Primochill PETG, and Ghost Compression fittings
> Misc. Bitspower adapters
> Mayhems Pastel Orange


whats that tube under the pump for? ....


----------



## wermad

Probably a drain.


----------



## derickwm

Custom Enthoo Primo direct from Phanteks is on the way to replace the H440


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> whats that tube under the pump for? ....


Yep, it's a drain tube. Has a ball valve on the other end of it.


----------



## snef

A custom primo, a MKII is not enough?????

Lolll. Need a lot of pics, want to see that


----------



## szeged

anyone buy anything from modDIY.com ? i need new 35mm m4 screws and was thinking about some from them, http://www.moddiy.com/products/M4.0-x-35mm-Black-Screws-%28PM4X35%29.html specifically. Anyone know where i could get similar screws for cheaper? everywhere else ive checked wants me to buy 100+ minimum =\


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone buy anything from modDIY.com ? i need new 35mm m4 screws and was thinking about some from them, http://www.moddiy.com/products/M4.0-x-35mm-Black-Screws-%28PM4X35%29.html specifically. Anyone know where i could get similar screws for cheaper? everywhere else ive checked wants me to buy 100+ minimum =\


I got some cables and adapters from them. reliable service although it will not be that fast as buying locally in US for you. Will ship from China.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Aren't those the same screws that are available in all lengths, shapes and colors at Home Depot and such?

I've been buying all kinds of screws for my watercooling builds at a local Home Depot - instant and dirt cheap.


----------



## wermad

Home depot has really paltry selection of metric screws. Mcmastercarr.com or ebay are the best spots to get different head types, color, sizes, etc.. Typically, most metric M3 and M4 screws stop at 25mm @ Homes. I know, I went to few of them searching for 30mm length ones.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone buy anything from modDIY.com ? i need new 35mm m4 screws and was thinking about some from them, http://www.moddiy.com/products/M4.0-x-35mm-Black-Screws-%28PM4X35%29.html specifically. Anyone know where i could get similar screws for cheaper? everywhere else ive checked wants me to buy 100+ minimum =\


Do you have an Ace hardware or True Value hardware store around you? That's where I get all of my screws from. They have quite the selection of metric screws.


----------



## szeged

tried to find some in the US, nothing that really interested me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Do you have an Ace hardware or True Value hardware store around you? That's where I get all of my screws from. They have quite the selection of metric screws.


i tried a few ace hardwares homedepots, lowes etc around town, no dice.


----------



## wermad

why pan head? no likey button or hex head? much more smexy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M4-x-35mm-Qty-25-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screws-DIN-7985-A-Black-Steel-/111448518719?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f2d9703f

^^^should be quick since its in FL


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> why pan head? no likey button or hex head? much more smexy.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/M4-x-35mm-Qty-25-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screws-DIN-7985-A-Black-Steel-/111448518719?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f2d9703f
> 
> ^^^should be quick since its in FL


would prefer button head but couldnt find any in 30/35mm =\


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> would prefer button head but couldnt find any in 30/35mm =\


http://www.mcmaster.com/#91239a158/=xcxkvy

They come in packs of 50, which might be too much. I've ordered from McMaster a few times, no complaints here.

edit: also cheaper than ModDYI


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, I have purchased through ModDYI. Had zero issues with them and depending on the size of the order takes a little under 2 weeks to make it to Washington state.









I am in the same boat for screws. It's hard as pulling pirahna teeth getting a nice red screw assortment longer than 25mm.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Ss screws are much tougher then black oxidized or painted screws. Mcmastercarr screws last better then eBay screws. Though they're a bit more pricey.


----------



## szeged

said screw it ( pun intended ) and ended up ordering

50 screws from modDIY

150 screws from mcmaster

50 screws from ebay.

one of them has to look good in my build lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

For sure but stainless an my build don't go well together. I can get stainless locally from Napa or Carquest for pretty cheap.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

35mm to clear rad brackets?


----------



## szeged

i wouldnt even have to buy screws if hwlabs sent screws that were actually 30mm measured from under the head instead of 30mm when including the head


----------



## Ceadderman

I was looking for 60mm cause I wanted to run shrouds but I have chucked that idea and looking for 30mm to mount Koolance shrouds to the exterior doors to cover the gaps and 25mm for the top fans, or possibly same as doors if I shroud the top.









The KL shrouds are specifically for aesthetics not for performance. I'm gonna put grills under them to keep fingers from getting whacked when my little man gets mobile and curious enough to take a risk.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Don't you measure from to top of the head only on flush (counter sunk) screws? Why would they do that with ph







. At least it ain't the elusive 6_32 30mm xspc screws. All I could find was puncture happy 1-1/4"









Edit: @szeged. stuff came in, leave you feedback later, thx again


----------



## Ceadderman

AFAIK that's how it's done all others are measured below the head.









~Ceadder


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't you measure from to top of the head only on flush (counter sunk) screws? Why would they do that with ph
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . At least it ain't the elusive 6_32 30mm xspc screws. All I could find was puncture happy 1-1/4"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: @szeged. stuff came in, leave you feedback later, thx again


i dont know why they did it the way they did but it severely inconvenienced me today lol.

I have a good 100 or so of the xspc 6_32 30mm screws if you ever need any.

Hope the rads arrived safely, i packed it as much as i could so the rest was up to usps to not be awful like usual


----------



## wermad

I may tap them to m4 since I have a ton of those.


----------



## XKaan

Hey all! Finally got my backordered fittings and finished up the loop last night. Leak tested and I have my Mayhems in it now. Apologies for the potato-quality pic - once the rig is done I will post professional pictures.

I wanted to share my loop just the same - I went for the simplest and most aesthetically pleasing layout. (There's one 360 up top, and two 360 rads below)


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey all! Finally got my backordered fittings and finished up the loop last night. Leak tested and I have my Mayhems in it now. Apologies for the potato-quality pic - once the rig is done I will post professional pictures.
> 
> I wanted to share my loop just the same - I went for the simplest and most aesthetically pleasing layout. (There's one 360 up top, and two 360 rads below)


looking good


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i dont know why they did it the way they did but it severely inconvenienced me today lol.
> 
> I have a good 100 or so of the xspc 6_32 30mm screws if you ever need any.


Yeah I had to go get M4x35 screws also for HWLabs rads coupled with the Caselabs drop in rad mounts. The decouple accessories on the Noiseblocker fans also added a few extra mm so there was no way the stock fans would have worked. Went with a good set of stainless steel screws, and will just color up the heads in black. Now I just need to get even more (100 wasn't enough) lol.


----------



## Archea47

Hey gang,

My wonderful girlfriend is suggesting I buy a new case

I want to do it right. I've been dealing with a case of having the wrong computer case perpetually for a decade and when I do upgrade, it's a compromise

So I'm looking at the Case Labs ST10 or SM8

What else should I be considering?

Here's the current build ... whatever I get will be stuffed with rads. She would appreciate me not running fans @ 3K RPM (maybe 2200 will do) since I keep the rig in our bedroom


----------



## Hambone07si

I'd say get the case that suite's your needs for now and future if you're going with a CaseLabs. Those aren't cheap, so choose wisely. You can fit plenty of rads in either of those 2 so you'll be good either way. More of a "how do you want to look"

Fans @ 3K rpm's??? What are those for? So you case hovers off the ground? LOL, that's a little overboard for cooling needs. My rads work just fine at 1200rpm - 1500rpm max. Anything more is just more noise without any more adding cooling. If you want some good fans, get some Noctua NF-F12's for your rads. Those are great and very quiet.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> My wonderful girlfriend is suggesting I buy a new case
> 
> I want to do it right. I've been dealing with a case of having the wrong computer case perpetually for a decade and when I do upgrade, it's a compromise
> 
> So I'm looking at the Case Labs ST10 or SM8
> 
> What else should I be considering?
> 
> Here's the current build ... whatever I get will be stuffed with rads. She would appreciate me not running fans @ 3K RPM (maybe 2200 will do) since I keep the rig in our bedroom


I swapped my luxe build over to the caselabs sm8 it has been such a nice case to work with so easy to mod and water cool. Parts are readily available and the quality is top notch


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey all! Finally got my backordered fittings and finished up the loop last night. Leak tested and I have my Mayhems in it now. Apologies for the potato-quality pic - once the rig is done I will post professional pictures.
> 
> I wanted to share my loop just the same - I went for the simplest and most aesthetically pleasing layout. (There's one 360 up top, and two 360 rads below)


1200 p2 aha....very nice psu. man this p series is the best of evga...and you got one above 1xxxW holy c.....


----------



## pc-illiterate

it depends on which nf-f12 ippc fans. not nf-f12 pwm. you want the black fans.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I had to go get M4x35 screws also for HWLabs rads coupled with the Caselabs drop in rad mounts. The decouple accessories on the Noiseblocker fans also added a few extra mm so there was no way the stock fans would have worked. Went with a good set of stainless steel screws, and will just color up the heads in black. Now I just need to get even more (100 wasn't enough) lol.


yeah the stock fans would be perfect if....i wasnt using a caselabs drop in mount. now i have 200+ screws on their way to me because hwlabs doesnt know how to measure screws lol.

I wouldnt mind stainless steel screws since the theme of this build is all black and polished stainless.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah the stock fans would be perfect if....i wasnt using a caselabs drop in mount. now i have 200+ screws on their way to me because hwlabs doesnt know how to measure screws lol.
> 
> I wouldnt mind stainless steel screws since the theme of this build is all black and polished stainless.


Be careful with the 35mm screws. Even with the 3mm thick rad mount, it will still be longer than needed and will pierce the fins or hit the screw shields.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I'd say get the case that suite's your needs for now and future if you're going with a CaseLabs. Those aren't cheap, so choose wisely. You can fit plenty of rads in either of those 2 so you'll be good either way. More of a "how do you want to look"
> 
> Fans @ 3K rpm's??? What are those for? So you case hovers off the ground? LOL, that's a little overboard for cooling needs. My rads work just fine at 1200rpm - 1500rpm max. Anything more is just more noise without any more adding cooling. If you want some good fans, get some Noctua NF-F12's for your rads. Those are great and very quiet.


The advice on the case choices makes sense....
however
Your information about higher fan speeds not adding any cooling performance is (to me) just an opinion expressed without any data to base it on.
Fan speed is is by far the greatest determining factor governing the potential of a radiator to dissipate heat from the coolant.
Performance increase of course differs depending on each radiator's core design, but all will perform much better with higher fan speeds.

Here's some results to compare W/10DT with AP-15's in Push/Pull
If no performance increase can be be observed, then I think I'll just give up what I'm doing









 

Edit: Oops - did I just leak that XE data, boss won't be happy


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The advice on the case choices makes sense....
> however
> Your information about higher fan speeds not adding any cooling performance is (to me) just an opinion expressed without any data to base it on.
> Fan speed is is by far the greatest determining factor governing the potential of a radiator to dissipate heat from the coolant.
> Performance increase of course differs depending on each radiator's core design, but all will perform much better with higher fan speeds.
> 
> Here's some results to compare W/10DT with AP-15's in Push/Pull
> If no performance increase can be be observed, then I think I'll just give up what I'm doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Oops - did I just leak that XE data, boss won't be happy


Lol...Too late. I saw that







Not shabby at all at medium speed.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Lol...Too late. I saw that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not shabby at all at medium speed.


Final data point logging now








hope to have SR2 up tomorrow, followed by the XE Friday night


----------



## VSG

That seems in line with what my own XE sample seems to be doing in push alone too. Needless to say these new rads are optimized for the Vardar fans, but may not be for everyone. I miss the XTX already!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And an hour on the bench polisher later.....



CPU block has been rotated for the correct flow path too.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And an hour on the bench polisher later.....
> 
> 
> 
> CPU block has been rotated for the correct flow path too.


very clean, nice work.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And an hour on the bench polisher later.....


Using a specific compound or particular method?

I've no idea where to start with polishing my copper tubing, beyond polish- and buffing pads.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And an hour on the bench polisher later.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU block has been rotated for the correct flow path too.


Very nice. Would it be a bad idea to try to use copper pipe for my first water cooling setup? I haven't worked with copper, but I've done steel brake lines without much trouble.

I don't know why, I love the look of the copper pipe going across the radiator.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wouldnt even have to buy screws if hwlabs sent screws that were actually 30mm measured from under the head instead of 30mm when including the head


Ah, same problem I had with my HWLab rad, stinking screws not long enough to go through a fan and case. Lucky enough, out of pure amazement the Ace Hardware store here has metric. Seriously, I am amazed consider the part of the States I am in.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wouldnt even have to buy screws if hwlabs sent screws that were actually 30mm measured from under the head instead of 30mm when including the head
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, same problem I had with my HWLab rad, stinking screws not long enough to go through a fan and case. Lucky enough, out of pure amazement the Ace Hardware store here has metric. Seriously, I am amazed consider the part of the States I am in.
Click to expand...

Ace Hardware, if it is a true "Ace" franchise, will have the best selection of standard and metric screws of any hardware store. I have been working with my hands professionally for close to 15 years, and they are my go to spot for bits and pieces for many different stuff. Have yet to need a screw that they did not stock in some form or fashion.


----------



## Faster_is_better

What kind of fitting is this, and is it worth anything? Seems to be some type of compression fitting, the collar has some barbs inside it that likely clamp when pushed in.




Thanks


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What kind of fitting is this, and is it worth anything? Seems to be some type of compression fitting, the collar has some barbs inside it that likely clamp when pushed in.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I haven't seen one of those since my paintball days. That's a compressed air fitting.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What kind of fitting is this, and is it worth anything? Seems to be some type of compression fitting, the collar has some barbs inside it that likely clamp when pushed in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


They are good fittings,I used them a lot and never had a problem,they a speedfit fittings,single o-ring,lock collar and very solid,threads are WAY too long tho.......I used them on my SR2 last.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What kind of fitting is this, and is it worth anything? Seems to be some type of compression fitting, the collar has some barbs inside it that likely clamp when pushed in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are good fittings,I used them a lot and never had a problem,they a speedfit fittings,single o-ring,lock collar and very solid,threads are WAY too long tho.......I used them on my SR2 last.
Click to expand...

Interesting.. Thanks


----------



## wjturner78

Finally finished making all of my plexi panels

please check out my build log and subscribe

http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/build-log-project-phoenix-lights-enthoo-primo



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























Spoiler: Top cover













Spoiler: under the panels




there is no scratch here on the pump window its a reflection i think









Spoiler: corners




top right corner


top left corner


Spoiler: seam




joints now fitting nicely, still need to fill and sand level.








Spoiler: Photo shop of graphics











Spoiler: misc


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I bought this Aquacomputer Aqualis Res/Pump adapter http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aqualis-d5-100-ml-g1-4.html to pair with my Swiftech D5. However I'm not happy with it and going to return it as it's too small. So I want to pick out a different tube res that can connect to a d5 but I can't seem to understand which of these do this. For instance does this Bitspower reservoir just connect right to the D5 http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-ultra-pom-version.html ? If not what are the options out there for a 180-400ml res that can connect directly to a pump without spending a fortune on pump adapter kits?


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone buy anything from modDIY.com ? i need new 35mm m4 screws and was thinking about some from them, http://www.moddiy.com/products/M4.0-x-35mm-Black-Screws-%28PM4X35%29.html specifically. Anyone know where i could get similar screws for cheaper? everywhere else ive checked wants me to buy 100+ minimum =\


You can check on a Hobby store for RF controlled cars and airplanes. I have found all type of screws, nuts and wachers for radiators there.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I bought this Aquacomputer Aqualis Res/Pump adapter http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aqualis-d5-100-ml-g1-4.html to pair with my Swiftech D5. However I'm not happy with it and going to return it as it's too small. So I want to pick out a different tube res that can connect to a d5 but I can't seem to understand which of these do this. For instance does this Bitspower reservoir just connect right to the D5 http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-ultra-pom-version.html ? If not what are the options out there for a 180-400ml res that can connect directly to a pump without spending a fortune on pump adapter kits?


The bitspower res needs an accompanying d5 top that it screws into. That particular z tube is only 115ml


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The bitspower res needs an accompanying d5 top that it screws into. That particular z tube is only 115ml


Is there anything like the Aqualis with a 200ml or so tube? Also I meant to link the Bitspower Plus res not Ultra sorry.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I bought this Aquacomputer Aqualis Res/Pump adapter http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aqualis-d5-100-ml-g1-4.html to pair with my Swiftech D5. However I'm not happy with it and going to return it as it's too small. So I want to pick out a different tube res that can connect to a d5 but I can't seem to understand which of these do this. For instance does this Bitspower reservoir just connect right to the D5 http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-ultra-pom-version.html ? If not what are the options out there for a 180-400ml res that can connect directly to a pump without spending a fortune on pump adapter kits?


or something like this:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-140-d5-acetal-original-csq.html

tube can be replaced with a longer one. Or get the reservoir and d5 top separately and hook one into the other using a male-to-male adapter like this:



in that case the return line will be on top and you will need a small insert tube within the top.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> or something like this:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5/ek-xres-140-d5-acetal-original-csq.html
> 
> tube can be replaced with a longer one. Or get the reservoir and d5 top separately and hook one into the other using a male-to-male adapter like this:
> 
> 
> 
> in that case the return line will be on top and you will need a small insert tube within the top.


If I grab say this res http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-150-pom.html do I have to use Bitspower's specific (and expensive) pump top or can I use one like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-acetal-top-for-laing-d5-multiport.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> If I grab say this res http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-150-pom.html do I have to use Bitspower's specific (and expensive) pump top or can I use one like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-acetal-top-for-laing-d5-multiport.html


you can use both together. You will need a small male to male adapter if you want both top and reservoir to look like a combo. If a combo on the vertical orientation is what you are looking for will need the small insert tube for that bitspower tank too.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimablmatoma1.html

and here you can see the internal tub for the return line

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-ultra-200-pom-version.html


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can use both together. You will need a small male to male adapter if you want both top and reservoir to look like a combo. If a combo on the vertical orientation is what you are looking for will need the small insert tube for that bitspower tank too.
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimablmatoma1.html
> 
> and here you can see the internal tub for the return line
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-ultra-200-pom-version.html


So I have to buy that tube separately? May as well just buy the one you linked then.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey all. I have finally finished my Build log. Check it out









http://www.overclock.net/t/1549076/build-log-evga-titan-x-sli-4770k-xspc-primochill-petg-hard-tubing-revolver-corsair-750d


----------



## taowulf

Now that my case is out of the horrible place it used to be and on my desk, I would post a before pic...but that will wait until I rebuild the loop later this summer...hardline here I come, ugly plasticized tubes ****.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I'd say get the case that suite's your needs for now and future if you're going with a CaseLabs. Those aren't cheap, so choose wisely. You can fit plenty of rads in either of those 2 so you'll be good either way. More of a "how do you want to look"
> 
> Fans @ 3K rpm's??? What are those for? So you case hovers off the ground? LOL, that's a little overboard for cooling needs. My rads work just fine at 1200rpm - 1500rpm max. Anything more is just more noise without any more adding cooling. If you want some good fans, get some Noctua NF-F12's for your rads. Those are great and very quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> The advice on the case choices makes sense....
> however
> Your information about higher fan speeds not adding any cooling performance is (to me) just an opinion expressed without any data to base it on.
> Fan speed is is by far the greatest determining factor governing the potential of a radiator to dissipate heat from the coolant.
> Performance increase of course differs depending on each radiator's core design, but all will perform much better with higher fan speeds.
> 
> Here's some results to compare W/10DT with AP-15's in Push/Pull
> If no performance increase can be be observed, then I think I'll just give up what I'm doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Oops - did I just leak that XE data, boss won't be happy
Click to expand...










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That seems in line with what my own XE sample seems to be doing in push alone too. Needless to say these new rads are optimized for the Vardar fans, but may not be for everyone. I miss the XTX already!


Easy, just use Vardar's


----------



## fisher6

Can anyone tell me if these components are enough for a drain valve for my loop? i was thinking to have a T fitting from the pump then a valve attached to the T fitting:

T fitting:
http://digitalimpuls.no/PC-komponenter/Vannkj%C3%B8ling/Nipler/Forgrenere-(F,T,Y,Q-blokker)/Bitspower-T-blokk-1-4BSPx3-Silver-Shining127950-p0000083125

Valvle:
http://digitalimpuls.no/PC-komponenter/Vannkj%C3%B8ling/Nipler/P%C3%A5fylling-/-T%C3%B8mming/Bitspower-Mini-Valve-1-4BSP-Silver-Shining121179-p0000062208

There are a few things I'm not sure about:

How will the T fitting connect to the pump. Should I use a male to male to connector?
Do I need a male to male connection between the T fitting and the valve?
Any body can recommend the Aqua computer valvle, it's much cheaper than the bitspower one but I'm not sure about quality.

Thanks.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I swapped my luxe build over to the caselabs sm8 it has been such a nice case to work with so easy to mod and water cool. Parts are readily available and the quality is top


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I'd say get the case that suite's your needs for now and future if you're going with a CaseLabs. Those aren't cheap, so choose wisely. You can fit plenty of rads in either of those 2 so you'll be good either way. More of a "how do you want to look"
> 
> Fans @ 3K rpm's??? What are those for? So you case hovers off the ground? LOL, that's a little overboard for cooling needs. My rads work just fine at 1200rpm - 1500rpm max. Anything more is just more noise without any more adding cooling.


Thanks guys! I ended up ordering a Mercury S8 last night. Going to do 2x 360s up top, 2x 240s in the front and another 360 in the left side/bottom

FYI the RPM makes a big difference in my testing (I have a basic voltage-based fan controller currently) on CPU temp, but I run 1.6V daily. I did the math and with the radiators I'll put in the S8 I'll have 3 times the radiator volume, which should make the speed less significant


----------



## ReXtN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if these components are enough for a drain valve for my loop? i was thinking to have a T fitting from the pump then a valve attached to the T fitting:
> 
> T fitting:
> http://digitalimpuls.no/PC-komponenter/Vannkj%C3%B8ling/Nipler/Forgrenere-(F,T,Y,Q-blokker)/Bitspower-T-blokk-1-4BSPx3-Silver-Shining127950-p0000083125
> 
> Valvle:
> http://digitalimpuls.no/PC-komponenter/Vannkj%C3%B8ling/Nipler/P%C3%A5fylling-/-T%C3%B8mming/Bitspower-Mini-Valve-1-4BSP-Silver-Shining121179-p0000062208
> 
> There are a few things I'm not sure about:
> 
> How will the T fitting connect to the pump. Should I use a male to male to connector?
> Do I need a male to male connection between the T fitting and the valve?
> Any body can recommend the Aqua computer valvle, it's much cheaper than the bitspower one but I'm not sure about quality.
> 
> Thanks.


Enda en Norsk til i OCN a gitt!









You will need a male to male connector between both the T-fitting and the valve. They don't have outer threads, so you can't connect them to anything if you don't have male to male connectors.
I have this one which is connected from the pump, through a T connector and the to the valve and a stop/end fitting just in case the valve decides to break or open under shipping or something. http://www.aquatuning.no/vannkjling/koblinger/kuleventiler/14217/phobya-2-wege-kugelhahn-g1/4-geraendelt-black-nickel
This is the Male to Male fittings i use: http://www.aquatuning.no/vannkjling/koblinger/adapter/4614/double-nipple-g1/4-outer-thread-to-g1/4oe-outer-thread-with-o-ring-black-nickel?c=7681
My setup is: Pump - Male to male fitting, T fitting - male to male fitting - Valve - Block/stop/end fitting

I hope this helps you out a bit


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if these components are enough for a drain valve for my loop? i was thinking to have a T fitting from the pump then a valve attached to the T fitting:
> 
> T fitting:
> http://digitalimpuls.no/PC-komponenter/Vannkj%C3%B8ling/Nipler/Forgrenere-(F,T,Y,Q-blokker)/Bitspower-T-blokk-1-4BSPx3-Silver-Shining127950-p0000083125
> 
> Valvle:
> http://digitalimpuls.no/PC-komponenter/Vannkj%C3%B8ling/Nipler/P%C3%A5fylling-/-T%C3%B8mming/Bitspower-Mini-Valve-1-4BSP-Silver-Shining121179-p0000062208
> 
> There are a few things I'm not sure about:
> 
> How will the T fitting connect to the pump. Should I use a male to male to connector?
> Do I need a male to male connection between the T fitting and the valve?
> Any body can recommend the Aqua computer valvle, it's much cheaper than the bitspower one but I'm not sure about quality.
> 
> Thanks.


You will need a couple of connectors for that setup to go between the pump and the T, and the T to the valve. I would also get a stop plug for the other side of the valve just to be safe.

Edit....^ninja


----------



## ReXtN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> You will need a couple of connectors for that setup to go between the pump and the T, and the T to the valve. I would also get a stop plug for the other side of the valve just to be safe.
> 
> Edit....^ninja


Im a OCN Ninja, so watch out..


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReXtN*
> 
> Enda en Norsk til i OCN a gitt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will need a male to male connector between both the T-fitting and the valve. They don't have outer threads, so you can't connect them to anything if you don't have male to male connectors.
> I have this one which is connected from the pump, through a T connector and the to the valve and a stop/end fitting just in case the valve decides to break or open under shipping or something. http://www.aquatuning.no/vannkjling/koblinger/kuleventiler/14217/phobya-2-wege-kugelhahn-g1/4-geraendelt-black-nickel
> This is the Male to Male fittings i use: http://www.aquatuning.no/vannkjling/koblinger/adapter/4614/double-nipple-g1/4-outer-thread-to-g1/4oe-outer-thread-with-o-ring-black-nickel?c=7681
> My setup is: Pump - Male to male fitting, T fitting - male to male fitting - Valve - Block/stop/end fitting
> 
> I hope this helps you out a bit


Thanks for the answer, is that the male to male connector you linked or just stop plug? By the way, how was your experience with AquaTuning with regards to customs and so on.


----------



## ReXtN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the answer, is that the male to male connector you linked or just stop plug? By the way, how was your experience with AquaTuning with regards to customs and so on.


That's a male to male fitting








Im very happy with Aquatuning, and the packages have gone flawlessly through the customs and so on








It takes about one week(5 working days) from shipping date to the arrival at my local post office in Drammen.
They use about 1-2 days for them to ship the parts, but that is normal. I have only used them and Techbay.no for my WC stuff, and im very happy with both of them








Aquatuning have things that techbay don't have and vice versa.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReXtN*
> 
> That's a male to male fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im very happy with Aquatuning, and the packages have gone flawlessly through the customs and so on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes about one week(5 working days) from shipping date to the arrival at my local post office in Drammen.
> They use about 1-2 days for them to ship the parts, but that is normal. I have only used them and Techbay.no for my WC stuff, and im very happy with both of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquatuning have things that techbay don't have and vice versa.


Nice, I think I will just order that then. Below 350 NOK should be free from customs charge too I think.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ReXtN*
> 
> Enda en Norsk til i OCN a gitt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will need a male to male connector between both the T-fitting and the valve. They don't have outer threads, so you can't connect them to anything if you don't have male to male connectors.
> I have this one which is connected from the pump, through a T connector and the to the valve and a stop/end fitting just in case the valve decides to break or open under shipping or something. http://www.aquatuning.no/vannkjling/koblinger/kuleventiler/14217/phobya-2-wege-kugelhahn-g1/4-geraendelt-black-nickel
> This is the Male to Male fittings i use: http://www.aquatuning.no/vannkjling/koblinger/adapter/4614/double-nipple-g1/4-outer-thread-to-g1/4oe-outer-thread-with-o-ring-black-nickel?c=7681
> My setup is: Pump - Male to male fitting, T fitting - male to male fitting - Valve - Block/stop/end fitting
> 
> I hope this helps you out a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the answer, is that the male to male connector you linked or just stop plug? By the way, how was your experience with AquaTuning with regards to customs and so on.
Click to expand...

I use male-to-male rotary adapter.


----------



## rioja

Let me copy the same image from appropriate thread, this looks so nice


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Let me copy the same image from appropriate thread, this looks so nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


THe Little fan makes me laugh.

I am finding myself deep in Caselabs website. Looking at S3's for my next build. I need a computer for work.









The Cautious One


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Let me copy the same image from appropriate thread, this looks so nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mmmmm, love the TUF series boards. Hehe, still see that you can put little fans on them. Though I was nuts with my first one and manage to smack a 3000rpm Delta fan onto it.







Always had a kick when I could hear that little fan fire off in the case, would sound like a mini jet turbine winding up.


----------



## rioja

Btw this little fan can drop Vcore temp by 17C









But actually it is there just for aesthetics, board can handle the temp without fan at all.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> THe Little fan makes me laugh.
> 
> I am finding myself deep in Caselabs website. Looking at S3's for my next build. I need a computer for work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


YES! Another Incautious One build!!!


----------



## Tdbeisn554

My rig:

With H100i


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> YES! Another Incautious One build!!!


I mean, Someone has to do it right?
















Im thinking Black exterior, white interior. ......







Full window top and sides..... 240mm Flex Front with 240mm rad attached to the rear panel... Rigid acrylic..... 500 Gb Ssd and 1 TB HDD....

Motherboard (Asus Of course).... Ek waterblock for processor, Mayb another DDC?

Oh This is going to get interesting.

Tco


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Let me copy the same image from appropriate thread, this looks so nice


join in our Asus Sabertooth TUF club








Welcome to OC.net. Never saw a post of you.

btw I got a Sabertooth X79 but unmounted every fan and replaced it with a custom water cooling plate


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I mean, Someone has to do it right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im thinking Black exterior, white interior. ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full window top and sides..... 240mm Flex Front with 240mm rad attached to the rear panel... Rigid acrylic..... 500 Gb Ssd and 1 TB HDD....
> 
> Motherboard (Asus Of course).... Ek waterblock for processor, Mayb another DDC?
> 
> Oh This is going to get interesting.
> 
> Tco


I like the cut of your jib, sir.


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> join in our Asus Sabertooth TUF club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to OC.net. Never saw a post of you.
> 
> btw I got a Sabertooth X79 but unmounted every fan and replaced it with a custom water cooling plate


I meant this thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1546558/asus-asus-announces-tuf-sabertooth-x99/100
where I posted some more pics, well until I will start my own build log









How did you replace the fans on your X79, do u have link?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I like the cut of your jib, sir.


This is the Plan. My woman is in college and needs to use a pc. I don't want her to use "The Division" (of course) so I will possibly Rebuild "The Compromise" For her in a S8S Caselabs So I could possibly squeeze that on the desk in our room.

S3 for work and use most of the parts from "The Compromise" (Ram, Processor, HDD and SSD) Just not sure how I can pull this off If she needs to use it for School.

The Cautious One


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> I meant this thread
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1546558/asus-asus-announces-tuf-sabertooth-x99/100
> where I posted some more pics, well until I will start my own build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you replace the fans on your X79, do u have link?


ehm just unmount it?


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

PC UPGRADE PROJECT "ZEBRA"

CPU: i7 4770K @ 4.6GHZ

MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI FORMULA

RAM:16GB 4X4 KINGSTON HYPERX BEAST @2400

PSU:CORSAIR AX860 PLATINUM

GPU: ASUS GTX 970 OC STRIX

HDD:1TB SEAGATE X3

SSD: KINGSTON HYPERX 120GB

CASEHANTEKS ENTHOO PRO

WATERCOOLING

RADIATORS:2X EK WATERBLOCKS 240, 1X EK WATERBLOCKS 120

PUMPS: EK WATERBLOCKS DC4, EK D5 RESERVOIR PUMP COMBO

FITTINGS: EK WATERBLOCKS AND ALPHACOOL

TUBINGRIMOCHILL PRIMOFLEX ADVANCED LRT CLEAR

COOLANT:EK WATERBLOCKS PASTEL WHITE AND MAYHEMS OIL BLACK

CPU WATERBLOCK: EK WATERBLOCKS LTX BLACK

MOTHERBOARD: STOCK WATERCOOLING SYSTEM

GPU: EK WATERBLOCKS FULL COVER GTX 970 STRIX

FANS: 5X CORSAIR 120 SP HIGH PERFORMANCE EDITION, 2X PHANTEKS 140 AF

CABLES: ALL CABLES ARE SLEEVED NZXT BLACK AND WHITE

LEDS: AKASA WHITE VEGAS


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> PC UPGRADE PROJECT "ZEBRA"
> 
> CPU: i7 4770K @ 4.6GHZ
> 
> MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI FORMULA
> 
> RAM:16GB 4X4 KINGSTON HYPERX BEAST @2400
> 
> PSU:CORSAIR AX860 PLATINUM
> 
> GPU: ASUS GTX 970 OC STRIX
> 
> HDD:1TB SEAGATE X3
> 
> SSD: KINGSTON HYPERX 120GB
> 
> CASEHANTEKS ENTHOO PRO
> 
> WATERCOOLING
> 
> RADIATORS:2X EK WATERBLOCKS 240, 1X EK WATERBLOCKS 120
> 
> PUMPS: EK WATERBLOCKS DC4, EK D5 RESERVOIR PUMP COMBO
> 
> FITTINGS: EK WATERBLOCKS AND ALPHACOOL
> 
> TUBINGRIMOCHILL PRIMOFLEX ADVANCED LRT CLEAR
> 
> COOLANT:EK WATERBLOCKS PASTEL WHITE AND MAYHEMS OIL BLACK
> 
> CPU WATERBLOCK: EK WATERBLOCKS LTX BLACK
> 
> MOTHERBOARD: STOCK WATERCOOLING SYSTEM
> 
> GPU: EK WATERBLOCKS FULL COVER GTX 970 STRIX
> 
> FANS: 5X CORSAIR 120 SP HIGH PERFORMANCE EDITION, 2X PHANTEKS 140 AF
> 
> CABLES: ALL CABLES ARE SLEEVED NZXT BLACK AND WHITE
> 
> LEDS: AKASA WHITE VEGAS
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build really clean!


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

Thanks a lot







i realy appreciate it!


----------



## nismoskyline

does anyone know if the xspc rasa amd block fits socket 771?
i haven't been able to find any definitive answers

image reference to the part:

thanks


----------



## XKaan

Finally - my loop is done and I'm up and running! Some wire management in the back where you can't see, but I'm 98% there!

ASRock X99 Extreme 6
Intel i7 5930K
Titan X
Kingston Hyper-X Predator 480GB M.2 PCI-E SSD (primary)
Crucial 960GB SSD (secondary)
32 Gigs GSkill RipJaws DDR4

EK Supremacy plexi
EK Titan X plexi waterblock
EK Blue Titan Backplate
EK Fittings
e22 Tubing
D5 with Bitspower Blue Mod Kit
Bitspower Mod Top with 250ml Reservoir
(3) Koolance 360mm Rads (one up top, two below)
Corsair LED SP120 Fans
Lamptron CW611 Fan Controller
Mayhems Pastel White with 10 drops of Mayhems Blue Dye

This is all in a Origin Genesis Case I bought when they were selling the case by itself for a short while.

Build log and more detailed pics to come....


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Finally - my loop is done and I'm up and running! Some wire management in the back where you can't see, but I'm 98% there!
> 
> ASRock X99 Extreme 6
> Intel i7 5930K
> Titan X
> Kingston Hyper-X Predator 480GB M.2 PCI-E SSD (primary)
> Crucial 960GB SSD (secondary)
> 32 Gigs GSkill RipJaws DDR4
> 
> EK Supremacy plexi
> EK Titan X plexi waterblock
> EK Blue Titan Backplate
> EK Fittings
> e22 Tubing
> D5 with Bitspower Blue Mod Kit
> Bitspower Mod Top with 250ml Reservoir
> (3) Koolance 360mm Rads (one up top, two below)
> Corsair LED SP120 Fans
> Lamptron CW611 Fan Controller
> Mayhems Pastel White with 10 drops of Mayhems Blue Dye
> 
> This is all in a Origin Genesis Case I bought when they were selling the case by itself for a short while.
> 
> Build log and more detailed pics to come....


Awesome bends, man!


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Awesome bends, man!


Thanks! I really wanted this to be as symmetrical as possible with mostly the same bends and everything lining up and pleasing to the eye.,


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Very nice build really clean!


Thanks a lot i realy appreciate it!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A good looking loop and i have lusted after those cases for ages...if you ever come to sell it,PM me.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Finally - my loop is done and I'm up and running! Some wire management in the back where you can't see, but I'm 98% there!
> 
> ASRock X99 Extreme 6
> Intel i7 5930K
> Titan X
> Kingston Hyper-X Predator 480GB M.2 PCI-E SSD (primary)
> Crucial 960GB SSD (secondary)
> 32 Gigs GSkill RipJaws DDR4
> 
> EK Supremacy plexi
> EK Titan X plexi waterblock
> EK Blue Titan Backplate
> EK Fittings
> e22 Tubing
> D5 with Bitspower Blue Mod Kit
> Bitspower Mod Top with 250ml Reservoir
> (3) Koolance 360mm Rads (one up top, two below)
> Corsair LED SP120 Fans
> Lamptron CW611 Fan Controller
> Mayhems Pastel White with 10 drops of Mayhems Blue Dye
> 
> This is all in a Origin Genesis Case I bought when they were selling the case by itself for a short while.
> 
> Build log and more detailed pics to come....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I DIG this case.. well done. nice looking loop


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

The bitspower tubing is Noticeably larger in diameter than the monsoon tubing and these are shorter than the ones I have been using also. Switching everything out right now.

The bitspower tubing actually snaps into place when pushed through the o-ring also.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> The bitspower tubing is Noticeably larger than the monsoon tubing. Switching everything out right now.


Hope this works for you, It seems to be improving 100% just looking at the tubing.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> The bitspower tubing is Noticeably larger than the monsoon tubing. Switching everything out right now.


Yeah that was my take on this. I guess no more leaks now?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hope this works for you, It seems to be improving 100% just looking at the tubing.
> 
> TCO


It is a major improvement for sure, and I may replace everything and just eat the cost of the lot from Monsoon I just purchased.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah that was my take on this. I guess no more leaks now?


No idea just yet, but as stated above, it is a major improvement. I just got the GPU's out, and pulling them apart now. Those were spare fittings.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I mean, Someone has to do it right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im thinking Black exterior, white interior. ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full window top and sides..... 240mm Flex Front with 240mm rad attached to the rear panel... Rigid acrylic..... 500 Gb Ssd and 1 TB HDD....
> 
> Motherboard (Asus Of course).... Ek waterblock for processor, Mayb another DDC?
> 
> Oh This is going to get interesting.
> 
> Tco


Got to show it off at work. Lots of windows and lights and colourful pastel coolant. With some crazy bends I say.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Got to show it off at work. Lots of windows and lights and colourful pastel coolant. With some crazy bends I say.


OH... Yea... about bending... Not Sure Im Cautious Enough for that yet.







Fittings are nice Though









TCO


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bitspower tubing is Noticeably larger in diameter than the monsoon tubing and these are shorter than the ones I have been using also. Switching everything out right now.
> 
> The bitspower tubing actually snaps into place when pushed through the o-ring also.


You were using monsoon tubing with bitspower fittings?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> You were using monsoon tubing with bitspower fittings?


Yes, because I wanted everything Monsoon but the lot of fittings I got had bitspower fittings in it.

Funny thing.. The bits power 20mm tubes are shorter than all of the other 20mm tubes are shorter than the Ek tubes by a good bit. (the ek tubes and fittings were not used in this build!!! Before someone reads that wrong)

I tried to fashion some correct length ones from an extra section of bitspower tube that I purchased with these 20mm tubes, and can not get it to go past the o-ring at all.

If the 20mm fitting isn't correct, what the heck am I supposed to use? Or, are they supposed to disconnect every time I install them?



All I can say at this point, is that I am really sick of wasting money. I can't put any of this back together because the freaking tubes won't work, with 4 different types sitting here now, and it is extremely frustrating.

Can I get a helpful post as to what length I need to buy, so that I don't pay for another lot of tubing and just waste money? Please. I am requesting that if you feel like repeating what I type, to just please hold off, because it is not helping.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, because I wanted everything Monsoon but the lot of fittings I got had bitspower fittings in it.
> 
> Funny thing.. The bits power 20mm tubes are shorter than all of the other 20mm tubes are shorter than the Ek tubes by a good bit. (the ek tubes and fittings were not used in this build!!! Before someone reads that wrong)
> 
> I tried to fashion some correct length ones from an extra section of bitspower tube that I purchased with these 20mm tubes, and can not get it to go past the o-ring at all.
> 
> If the 20mm fitting isn't correct, what the heck am I supposed to use? Or, are they supposed to disconnect every time I install them?
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say at this point, is that I am really sick of wasting money. I can't put any of this back together because the freaking tubes won't work, with 4 different types sitting here now, and it is extremely frustrating.
> 
> 
> 
> Can I get a helpful post as to what length I need to buy, so that I don't pay for another lot of tubing and just waste money? Please. I am requesting that if you feel like repeating what I type, to just please hold off, because it is not helping.


Cant you just get bitspower 12mm tubing and cut them to lenght?



TCO


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Cant you just get bitspower 12mm tubing and cut them to lenght?
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


If you reread my post, you will see exactly why I get more frustrated every single time I make a post, and some rephrased the exact words I use into a question....

Here:

I tried to fashion (*I meant cut) some correct length ones from an extra section of bitspower tube that I purchased with these 20mm tubes, and can not get it to go past the o-ring at all.

I guess I should have said, the extra 1000mm length I purchased.. Here.. Even better thing to make you laugh:



I purchased 14 of the 20mm pieces, prechamfered.

I bought the same thing, no chamfer, is a 1000mm length. Side by side, the 1000mm length is slightly larger than the 20mm length. Just enough that even with a chamfer, I can't get it to I use onto the fitting. 

Also, since it will come up.. Again.. Silicon grease on the tube and both o-rings.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I purchased 14 of the 20mm pieces, prechamfered.
> 
> I bought the same thing, no chamfer, is a 1000mm length. Side by side, the 1000mm length is slightly larger than the 20mm length. Just enough that even with a chamfer, I can't get it to I use onto the fitting.
> 
> Also, since it will come up.. Again.. Silicon grease on the tube and both o-rings.


This is what happened to me. I bought long lengths of BP 16mm crystal link and they were way to fat for the 16mm bitspower end multi link. I ended up getting more monsoon tubing to finish...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Chamfer or sand it down a bit this section (or whatever length necessary that will be inside the fittings) of the 1000mm just enough to slide in the fittings?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> This is what happened to me. I bought long lengths of BP 16mm crystal link and they were way to fat for the 16mm bitspower end multi link. I ended up getting more monsoon tubing to finish...


I am literally ready to cry, and I don't say that often. May hands are killing me, I have two dead systems currently, and my third (phase change) keeps freezing and then dripping onto the motherboard. All of these systems are dedicated to folding, and I can't fold :-(
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Chamfer or sand it down a bit this section (or whatever length necessary that will be inside the fittings) of the 1000mm just enough to slide in the fittings?


I may try that tomorrow, but it is ridiculously hard to hold that small of a piece of tubing. I have been sanding the hell out of it so far.

I will give it another try tomorrow. I have been going at it for 3 hours to try and get 2 fittings correctly seated so far, and I am tired.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I am literally ready to cry, and I don't say that often. May hands are killing me, I have two dead systems currently, and my third (phase change) keeps freezing and then dripping onto the motherboard. All of these systems are dedicated to folding, and I can't fold :-(
> I may try that tomorrow, but it is ridiculously hard to hold that small of a piece of tubing. I have been sanding the hell out of it so far.
> 
> I will give it another try tomorrow. I have been going at it for 3 hours to try and get 2 fittings correctly seated so far, and I am tired.


That is the only solution with the materials you have that I can think off mate. The only other solution would be to buy a different 16 mm tube, perhaps locally? Take some rest because we usually do stupid things when we are tired. Go watch TV or something or a good night sleep before you do any other work on those parts. Everything will be fine eventually









edit - also just be mindful if you are not taking too much out of the tubes in the process. There is wide variation in the thickness of acrylic tubes and if the wall is too thin I would start to be worry about whether or not tube structure would remain reliable after sanding out to insert in the fittings...(example; ek tubes are 10 mm internal the 12 mm version but e22 is clearly less than that..perhaps 1mm and another local tube I have in hand have a thick wall - inner is 8mm and outer 12 mm)


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That is the only solution with the materials you have that I can think off mate. The only other solution would be to buy a different 16 mm tube, perhaps locally?


I have the option of Lowes and Home Depot locally. I tried to get double sided tape, and it was like trying to find a golden unicorn, lol. I will give the chamfering even more of a try.

Just a heads up for others, that was the 1000mm piece, not one of the ones I had already cut. I left those in the other room, :-/

I will try again tomorrow, since I will have the weekend to get mad over everything. Hopefully I can get them to work properly. I still can't fathom why Bitspower shows 2 slot spacing with their fittings at 19mm, when 20mm fittings are not nearly long enough. They need to be closer to 25mm. Either way, too late to cry over that spilled milk. I don't want to make the same mistake again is all.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That is the only solution with the materials you have that I can think off mate. The only other solution would be to buy a different 16 mm tube, perhaps locally? Take some rest because we usually do stupid things when we are tired. Go watch TV or something or a good night sleep before you do any other work on those parts. Everything will be fine eventually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit - also just be mindful if you are not taking too much out of the tubes in the process. There is wide variation in the thickness of acrylic tubes and if the wall is too thin I would start to be worry about whether or not tube structure would remain reliable after sanding out to insert in the fittings...(example; ek tubes are 10 mm internal the 12 mm version but e22 is clearly less than that..perhaps 1mm and another local tube I have in hand have a thick wall - inner is 8mm and outer 12 mm)


I know I do stupid crap when tired, kind of the reason why I don't mess with my builds when tired. Hell messed w/ the kernel in JAC earlier this afternoon (didn't get alot of sleep last night) and ended up having to wipe and re-install a few times till I got it right.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Yes, because I wanted everything Monsoon but the lot of fittings I got had bitspower fittings in it.
> 
> Funny thing.. The bits power 20mm tubes are shorter than all of the other 20mm tubes are shorter than the Ek tubes by a good bit. (the ek tubes and fittings were not used in this build!!! Before someone reads that wrong)
> 
> I tried to fashion some correct length ones from an extra section of bitspower tube that I purchased with these 20mm tubes, and can not get it to go past the o-ring at all.
> 
> If the 20mm fitting isn't correct, what the heck am I supposed to use? Or, are they supposed to disconnect every time I install them?
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say at this point, is that I am really sick of wasting money. I can't put any of this back together because the freaking tubes won't work, with 4 different types sitting here now, and it is extremely frustrating.
> 
> Can I get a helpful post as to what length I need to buy, so that I don't pay for another lot of tubing and just waste money? Please. I am requesting that if you feel like repeating what I type, to just please hold off, because it is not helping.


I wouldn't mix monsoon tubing and bitpsower fittings also vice versa.

I tried a bitspower tube 16mm wouldn't fit in the monsoon fitting equivalent.

I would assume the monsoon tubing would be just a bit smaller for the bitspower fittings.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bitspower tubing is Noticeably larger in diameter than the monsoon tubing and these are shorter than the ones I have been using also. Switching everything out right now.
> 
> The bitspower tubing actually snaps into place when pushed through the o-ring also.


Your experience is a great example of why I hate that Monsoon, and some others, use 16mm and 5/8 and 13mm and 1/2 interchangeably in a system that requires close tolerances. It is just so stupid and unnecessary. All it takes is 5/8 tubing that is slightly undersized, which would be fine with 5/8 fittings, but not with 16mm fittings and disaster is not far away.

There seems to be a greater degree of variation in 16mm tube too (compared to 12mm) .


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> I wouldn't mix monsoon tubing and bitpsower fittings also vice versa.
> 
> I tried a bitspower tube 16mm wouldn't fit in the monsoon fitting equivalent.
> 
> I would assume the monsoon tubing would be just a bit smaller for the bitspower fittings.


It is slightly smaller.. the problem is, the 16mm Bitspower tubing doesn't fit in the 16mm bitspower fittings... so, I have no freaking idea what to do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> edit - also just be mindful if you are not taking too much out of the tubes in the process. There is wide variation in the thickness of acrylic tubes and if the wall is too thin I would start to be worry about whether or not tube structure would remain reliable after sanding out to insert in the fittings...(example; ek tubes are 10 mm internal the 12 mm version but e22 is clearly less than that..perhaps 1mm and another local tube I have in hand have a thick wall - inner is 8mm and outer 12 mm)


The Bitspower tube, although labeled 12/16mm, is thicker than 16mm, and seems that the wall is thicker than 2mm total. I have a micrometer at work, and will try to remember to grab it tomorrow.

Does a 30mm section sound like it would be the correct length for the gap (two slot spacing)? I really would rather order the correct tube, because it just nicked one of the o-rings slightly while trying to wear it down so it would give in. The 30mm precuts, which seem to fit, are only 1.39 each.. I can make do with that price, as long as they won't be too long when I put them in. Can anyone possibly verify the correct length, since BP has it wrong, please?


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> It is slightly smaller.. the problem is, the 16mm Bitspower tubing doesn't fit in the 16mm bitspower fittings... so, I have no freaking idea what to do.
> The Bitspower tube, although labeled 12/16mm, is thicker than 16mm, and seems that the wall is thicker than 2mm total. I have a micrometer at work, and will try to remember to grab it tomorrow.
> 
> Does a 30mm section sound like it would be the correct length for the gap (two slot spacing)? I really would rather order the correct tube, because it just nicked one of the o-rings slightly while trying to wear it down so it would give in. The 30mm precuts, which seem to fit, are only 1.39 each.. I can make do with that price, as long as they won't be too long when I put them in. Can anyone possibly verify the correct length, since BP has it wrong, please?


Maybe you its due to variance. bad batch of bitspower tubes?

where did you get them from? try and ask for a refund or another batch?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I ordered them from Performance PC's. I will contact them and see what they say. Thank you for the suggestion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Maybe you its due to variance. bad batch of bitspower tubes?
> 
> where did you get them from? try and ask for a refund or another batch?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Your experience is a great example of why I hate that Monsoon, and some others, use 16mm and 5/8 and 13mm and 1/2 interchangeably in a system that requires close tolerances. It is just so stupid and unnecessary. All it takes is 5/8 tubing that is slightly undersized, which would be fine with 5/8 fittings, but not with 16mm fittings and disaster is not far away.
> 
> There seems to be a greater degree of variation in 16mm tube too (compared to 12mm) .


That's exactly why I went w/ Primo fittings and tubing to avoid issues due to improper sizing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's exactly why I went w/ Primo fittings and tubing to avoid issues due to improper sizing.


No this is why I've always used (and will use) 12mm Tube and 12mm Fittings.

TCO


----------



## Pimphare

@Scarlet-Tech
Have you tried putting the tubing in the fittings without the o-rings to see if the tubing seats/fits properly? I'm curious if you could possibly find a less thick o-ring at a hardware store or auto parts store. I apologize if I sound redundant. Just trying to come up with some cost-effective ideas.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Finally - my loop is done and I'm up and running! Some wire management in the back where you can't see, but I'm 98% there!
> 
> ASRock X99 Extreme 6
> Intel i7 5930K
> Titan X
> Kingston Hyper-X Predator 480GB M.2 PCI-E SSD (primary)
> Crucial 960GB SSD (secondary)
> 32 Gigs GSkill RipJaws DDR4
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EK Supremacy plexi
> EK Titan X plexi waterblock
> EK Blue Titan Backplate
> EK Fittings
> e22 Tubing
> D5 with Bitspower Blue Mod Kit
> Bitspower Mod Top with 250ml Reservoir
> (3) Koolance 360mm Rads (one up top, two below)
> Corsair LED SP120 Fans
> Lamptron CW611 Fan Controller
> Mayhems Pastel White with 10 drops of Mayhems Blue Dye
> 
> This is all in a Origin Genesis Case I bought when they were selling the case by itself for a short while.
> 
> Build log and more detailed pics to come....


Nice!









The colour pretty much look like the pastel blue berry though.

Anyway, it's my favourite colour.


----------



## Solonowarion

Anyone know where to find Bending cord for 10-8 mm e22 tube? I found some lawn mower fuel line the last time I did it but It was a little too small. I want to redo.


----------



## Ramzinho

MC master has all the sizes


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> MC master has all the sizes


Thanks. Should have thought of that.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Thanks. Should have thought of that.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3530/=xdz16o and Part is: 9679K24 is for 7.5mm rod.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @Scarlet-Tech
> Have you tried putting the tubing in the fittings without the o-rings to see if the tubing seats/fits properly? I'm curious if you could possibly find a less thick o-ring at a hardware store or auto parts store. I apologize if I sound redundant. Just trying to come up with some cost-effective ideas.


I have not, but I can try that to I get for sure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

E22 tube with EK or Bitspower,the best combo since Jack Daniels and hookers.
I have had problems of all sorts with every other combo,Primochill has problems even within their own product range....


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> E22 tube with EK or Bitspower,the *best combo since Jack Daniels and hookers.*
> I have had problems of all sorts with every other combo,Primochill has problems even within their own product range....


Truf.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Truf.


and i hope you are doing great Wolfs... been a while


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> and i hope you are doing great Wolfs... been a while


My good friend, how are you? After dealing with an ill child, I went on-call until today which usually takes me off the grid for the time being.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I have not, but I can try that to I get for sure.


Have you ever thought about using some Bitspower SLI connectors to make things a lot easier since you are having so much trouble in this area? It's not like there's a lot of tube you are seeing in that spot anyways? Just a thought? Or have you looked at buying the Bitspower tube links that are pre-cut to size and ends are chamfered already? Those sets are pretty cheap and might save you a lot of headache.. I've never seen someone go through so much trouble to get rid of a leak. I feel you on the frustration big time.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Have you ever thought about using some Bitspower SLI connectors to make things a lot easier since you are having so much trouble in this area? It's not like there's a lot of tube you are seeing in that spot anyways? Just a thought? Or have you looked at buying the Bitspower tube links that are pre-cut to size and ends are chamfered already? Those sets are pretty cheap and might save you a lot of headache.. I've never seen someone go through so much trouble to get rid of a leak. I feel you on the frustration big time.


These are the precut tubes, and they are too short to reach bot connectors. If there a difference in the SLI fittings and the fittings I already have, because I did not see sli specific ones, or I would have grabbed them for sure. These fittings were in a decent lot of fittings purchased from a user that never had a chance to implement them.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> These are the precut tubes, and they are too short to reach bot connectors. If there a difference in the SLI fittings and the fittings I already have, because I did not see sli specific ones, or I would have grabbed them for sure. These fittings were in a decent lot of fittings purchased from a user that never had a chance to implement them.


I actually had issues with bitspower fittings and E22 tubing, 12mm tubing and fittings to be exact. The tubing would not go in the fittings, I tried everything possible. Once they would attempt to go in the oring would be cut. I ordered Primochill tubing and fittings and had no issues. I also got my stuff from Performance PCs. Possibly a bad batch. I don't know, but something wasn't right. User error? Lol


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> These are the precut tubes, and they are too short to reach bot connectors. If there a difference in the SLI fittings and the fittings I already have, because I did not see sli specific ones, or I would have grabbed them for sure. These fittings were in a decent lot of fittings purchased from a user that never had a chance to implement them.


I c.. I think you should start fresh with all new parts in that area. For as much time you have spent, it would be worth every penny spent to not have it leaking. Get the right sli fittings with the correct tube size from the same manufacturer. Or just use regular sli connectors that aren't tubes. I personally use the black or chrome (depending on the build) sli connectors from Swiftech and never once had a leak. I'm a firm believer in using parts that haven't failed me ever. I'm sure Bitspower has some also that match your other fittings too. I think that's the brand you have? I just can't see why you are having so much trouble? It makes no sense. It shouldn't take anyone more than a day to fix a leak, let alone a week or even more. Pony up and buy all new fittings and be done with it. Something is wrong with something you are using. Maybe those fittings were from a bad run and aren't to spec? I'd be breaking a lot of stuff around the house if I was going through the same headaches as you are with this issue







lol


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I c.. I think you should start fresh with all new parts in that area. For as much time you have spent, it would be worth every penny spent to not have it leaking. Get the right sli fittings with the correct tube size from the same manufacturer. Or just use regular sli connectors that aren't tubes. I personally use the black or chrome (depending on the build) sli connectors from Swiftech and never once had a leak. I'm a firm believer in using parts that haven't failed me ever. I'm sure Bitspower has some also that match your other fittings too. I think that's the brand you have? I just can't see why you are having so much trouble? It makes no sense. It shouldn't take anyone more than a day to fix a leak, let alone a week or even more. Pony up and buy all new fittings and be done with it. Something is wrong with something you are using. Maybe those fittings were from a bad run and aren't to spec? I'd be breaking a lot of stuff around the house if I was going through the same headaches as you are with this issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


I haven't even gone into the phase change freezing above the top of the mounting system and then thawing, dripping ice water onto the system right now.. I have 3 full systems boggling my mind as to what the heck is going on right now.


----------



## emsj86

Karma owes you some good look with all this bad luck going on. Play the lottery. Hope everything works out man. I'm sure it's wanting you to just put a hammer to it


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Karma owes you some good look with all this bad luck going on. Play the lottery. Hope everything works out man. I'm sure it's wanting you to just put a hammer to it


To be honest bud, and seriously don't take this the wrong way at all, but to have 3 systems all down at the same time with each having issues, I think this is a bit of user error at this point bud







. No body has that bad of luck to have 3 systems all down at the same time with leaking issues.


----------



## emsj86

Yea I hear ya. I'm not physically there so I can't say for sure.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> To be honest bud, and seriously don't take this the wrong way at all, but to have 3 systems all down at the same time with each having issues, I think this is a bit of user error at this point bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . No body has that bad of luck to have 3 systems all down at the same time with leaking issues.












I couldn't fully agree to that, although everything that happened to me in the build process of "the Division" was self brought.









TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't fully agree to that, although everything that happened to me in the build process of "the Division" was self brought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


LOL, self brought is user error









Also, this is what happens when you try to save a buck. You aren't ever sure what you are getting when buying off of someone else. With how many thousands of different fittings there are and them being so close to the next in visual aspects, you just don't know. If you do things right from the beginning and buy the right parts that match each other, put it together the first time, you shouldn't have any issues if taken the proper steps in putting it all together correctly. Do some leak testing and be done. I haven't gone to hardline yet, but will soon. When I do, I will be buying new tubes with fittings from the same company that are made for each other. I see that PrimoChill has hardline fittings and they have different ones for acrylic or PETG, depending on which you get, but both fittings look the same pretty much.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> LOL, self brought is user error


That's what I just said....







Come on Bone! Get it Together Man!!

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's what I just said....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come on Bone! Get it Together Man!!
> 
> TCO


LOL, well it was the " I couldn't fully agree to that " part that made me reply that







.. It's still early, I need another cup of coffee to get my brain going HAHA

Well I'm getting my EK X-top in the mail today for my other D5 pump. I will put that together and then I can put 2 D5's in my new build. I was using 1 D5 and the Phobya pump as secondary, but I don't want to go that route anymore. 2 D5's is more that enough and should be as reliable as it could get. After that tho, I'm pretty much out of stuff to do. This X9 build went way to fast even with all the painting and custom stuff. Maybe I have it to easy at my job to be able to make things so fast when needed? I guess it's time to order up some hardline and pop that cherry


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> LOL, well it was the " I couldn't fully agree to that " part that made me reply that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. It's still early, I need another cup of coffee to get my brain going HAHA










Im down 5 cups and going. I couldn't fully agree because I am not in front of his loop, But I know on mine, It was my fault (All of it) Lol

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im down 5 cups and going. I couldn't fully agree because I am not in front of his loop, But I know on mine, It was my fault (All of it) Lol
> 
> TCO


How you been liking the Witcher 3? The graphics are pretty sick maxed out eh, lol. You are staying on top of the patches too right? Already 3rd patch since release. 1.04 made everything run a lot smoother for me. Also I finally flashed my TX last night to a modded bios I made for just 120% power limit over the stock 110%. Was playing the Witcher 3 maxed out with Nvidia Hairworks on full at 1402mhz core and 7400mhz mem and was locked at 60fps on my 65" Samsung. Looks amazing tho. Been playing with the DSR too a bit, rendering at 4K and then scaling back to 1080p just on my tv, and it does look a good bit better as far as the jagged lines go. It helps GTA V more tho and that's where it's more noticeable. Now with seeing the specs of the new 980ti, I couldn't be happier that I went with the Titan X. I thought it was going to be like the OG Titan and the 780ti again, but this time around, those who bought the TX have that extra power and now don't have to think we wasted our money lol. I'm sure some of the custom 980ti's will be knocking on just as fast as the TX tho, like the Classified or Lightning's, but clock a TX at 1400-1500mhz and do the same with the classy or lightning and I'm not sure if they will catch up? Guess we'll have to wait and see.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> How you been liking the Witcher 3? The graphics are pretty sick maxed out eh, lol. You are staying on top of the patches too right? Already 3rd patch since release. 1.04 made everything run a lot smoother for me. Also I finally flashed my TX last night to a modded bios I made for just 120% power limit over the stock 110%. Was playing the Witcher 3 maxed out with Nvidia Hairworks on full at 1402mhz core and 7400mhz mem and was locked at 60fps on my 65" Samsung. Looks amazing tho. Been playing with the DSR too a bit, rendering at 4K and then scaling back to 1080p just on my tv, and it does look a good bit better as far as the jagged lines go. It helps GTA V more tho and that's where it's more noticeable. Now with seeing the specs of the new 980ti, I couldn't be happier that I went with the Titan X. I thought it was going to be like the OG Titan and the 780ti again, but this time around, those who bought the TX have that extra power and now don't have to think we wasted our money lol. I'm sure some of the custom 980ti's will be knocking on just as fast as the TX tho, like the Classified or Lightning's, but clock a TX at 1400-1500mhz and do the same with the classy or lightning and I'm not sure if they will catch up? Guess we'll have to wait and see.


Oh I am loving TW3 ( Plus it came free with my 980 EVGA SC) So that was a huge plus to get a AAA title on the House







I've been playing at 1440p on my Qnix 2710 Pixel Perfect Monitors (OC to 100Hz) and Staying at 65FPS Average with Ultra and Hairworks on. SO proud of "The Division" although I am contemplating dropping another 980 in there to play at max settings at 4k. (Still need to get a 4k monitor but unsure when being that they are getting closer to making a monitor I want ) Asus Rog Swift IPS 4k montior With Gsync] Ill pay for that for sure.

SO for now I am content with my 350$ 1440p monitor to tide me over.

Temps on my Top 980 In Sli are about 4 - 5c higher now







So I guess once the Thermal Paste Set in I maybe need to reapply. I feel as though I should only be about 2 - 3 C higher than the bottom Card.

The Cautious One


----------



## Hambone07si

Really? 4-5c higher than bottom card on water cooling? I've never seen that much of a difference being on water. Usually I see 1-2c higher on my 2nd card as its getting warmer water after the 1st card. I've only seen top card higher being on air.. That's interesting bud. I'd say remount that block for sure, that just seems odd.. I also got the Witcher 3 free from buying a 970 for my bosses pc as he didn't want the game, so I feel ya on free AAA title







.. I kinda like playing a game like that more on my big screen with using my Xbox 360 controller wireless chillin on the couch. I have the 27" Asus Swift G-sync 144hz 1440p too, but I mostly play first person shooter's at the desk. GTA V I play on the TV too.

So you have the game through gog.com also then. Just make sure to look on there for the new patches every couple days for the next month or so.. 1.04 made a huge difference.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Really? 4-5c higher than bottom card on water cooling? I've never seen that much of a difference being on water. Usually I see 1-2c higher on my 2nd card as its getting warmer water after the 1st card.


Yeah in my SMA8 I had 3 780 Ti's and they were all the same temp actually. There might have been a 1c difference sometimes, but for the most part they were all the same. 4c-5c seems a little odd.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Really? 4-5c higher than bottom card on water cooling? I've never seen that much of a difference being on water. Usually I see 1-2c higher on my 2nd card as its getting warmer water after the 1st card. I've only seen top card higher being on air.. That's interesting bud. I'd say remount that block for sure, that just seems odd.. I also got the Witcher 3 free from buying a 970 for my bosses pc as he didn't want the game, so I feel ya on free AAA title
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I kinda like playing a game like that more on my big screen with using my Xbox 360 controller wireless chillin on the couch. I have the 27" Asus Swift G-sync 144hz 1440p too, but I mostly play first person shooter's at the desk. GTA V I play on the TV too.
> 
> So you have the game through gog.com also then. Just make sure to look on there for the new patches every couple days for the next month or so.. 1.04 made a huge difference.


Im already on 1.04









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Yeah in my SMA8 I had 3 780 Ti's and they were all the same temp actually. There might have been a 1c difference sometimes, but for the most part they were all the same. 4c-5c seems a little odd.


I think a remount in the key. I agree

TCO


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> does anyone know if the xspc rasa amd block fits socket 771?
> i haven't been able to find any definitive answers
> 
> image reference to the part:
> 
> thanks


According to the specs listed on this sale page, it doesn't. http://www.xoxide.com/xspc-rasa750rs240-watercoolingkit.html


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im already on 1.04
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think a remount in the key. I agree
> 
> TCO


Cool. Gotta stay patched ya kno









Also, yeah for sure do a remount. If you have 2 of the same cards on both the same water blocks being water cooled with a custom loop like yours, you should never see the top card running that much hotter than the 2nd one. I have never seen that the first card in a loop run like that personally. Only on air have I seen that. I bet you will get them both within 1-2c at most after a remount.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Cool. Gotta stay patched ya kno
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, yeah for sure do a remount. If you have 2 of the same cards on both the same water blocks being water cooled with a custom loop like yours, you should never see the top card running that much hotter than the 2nd one. I have never seen that the first card in a loop run like that personally. Only on air have I seen that. I bet you will get them both within 1-2c at most after a remount.


I fully agree







(Just don't want to drain the green







It's so pretty

TCO


----------



## erso44

I think I will go for EVO 2011


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im already on 1.04
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think a remount in the key. I agree
> 
> TCO


Yep, that's what I would do.


----------



## downforce

new stuff for my 3. rig:

Heatkiller IV


----------



## jeskie

So I have nearly finished building my second rig, here are some snaps. Only thing missing is ram and ssd, which are arriving tomorrow 

Here is the part list:

Case: Thermaltake V51

Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Extreme

CPU: Intel Core i7 5930k Unlocked Hex Core

Liquid Cooling: EKWB EK-KIT X360

GPU: 12GB EVGA GTX Titan X Superclocked

GPU Cooling: EKWB EK-FC Titan X Nickel

Memory: 32GB DDR4 Vengeance 2133MHz LPX Black

Disk: Corsair Force LS 960GB Solid Sate Drive

PSU: 1000W EVGA SuperNova 80 Plus Platinum


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I fully agree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Just don't want to drain the green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so pretty
> 
> TCO


Can't you just drain into a CLEAN bucket of some sort? I use an old 1 gallon ice cream bucket that's plastic for draining into and then poor back into my coolant jug through a coffee filter just to be sure there's nothing in there. Not sure if you can do that with the coolant you are using tho?? Remount and then refill back up with same coolant? Would only take me about a half hour to drain, remount, and refill and on to gaming again







.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeskie*
> 
> So I have nearly finished building my second rig, here are some snaps. Only thing missing is ram and ssd, which are arriving tomorrow
> 
> Here is the part list:
> 
> Case: Thermaltake V51
> 
> Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Extreme
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i7 6930k Unlocked Hex Core
> 
> Liquid Cooling: EKWB EK-KIT X360
> 
> GPU: 12GB EVGA GTX Titan X Superclocked
> 
> GPU Cooling: EKWB EK-FC Titan X Nickel
> 
> Memory: 32GB DDR4 Vengeance 2133MHz LPX Black
> 
> Disk: Corsair Force LS 960GB Solid Sate Drive
> 
> PSU: 1000W EVGA SuperNova 80 Plus Platinum
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The SPecial Edition 6930k Eh? Oo Lala







I like the Pump Top

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeskie*
> 
> So I have nearly finished building my second rig, here are some snaps. Only thing missing is ram and ssd, which are arriving tomorrow
> 
> Here is the part list:
> 
> Case: Thermaltake V51
> 
> Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Extreme
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i7 6930k Unlocked Hex Core
> 
> Liquid Cooling: EKWB EK-KIT X360
> 
> GPU: 12GB EVGA GTX Titan X Superclocked
> 
> GPU Cooling: EKWB EK-FC Titan X Nickel
> 
> Memory: 32GB DDR4 Vengeance 2133MHz LPX Black
> 
> Disk: Corsair Force LS 960GB Solid Sate Drive
> 
> PSU: 1000W EVGA SuperNova 80 Plus Platinum
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How did you get your hands on a CPU that isn't supposed to be out until Q1 2016??


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> How did you get your hands on a CPU that isn't supposed to be out until Q1 2016??


Perhaps he works for FIFA and accepted a bribe.


----------



## jeskie

Ooops 5930K


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> How did you get your hands on a CPU that isn't supposed to be out until Q1 2016??


What a Deal!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Perhaps he works for FIFA and accepted a bribe.












tco


----------



## fisher6

Anyone can recommend a decent UV led strip for primochill UV reactive blue tubing? i'm thinking of getting Darkside's UV led strips.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anyone can recommend a decent UV led strip for primochill UV reactive blue tubing? i'm thinking of getting Darkside's UV led strips.


UV is better to go with cathode I think, Led's just don't do UV as well IMO. At least none of the one's I've seen. They are more like purple leds.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> UV is better to go with cathode I think, Led's just don't do UV as well IMO. At least none of the one's I've seen. They are more like purple leds.


Any suggestions on which ones to buy?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Any suggestions on which ones to buy?


I would go Darkside UV. I stand by them after getting the white Leds.

TCO



If this fluid was UV reactive with UV Darkside in here.... I mean come on.. I know nothing about Cathodes though


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Any suggestions on which ones to buy?


Any that are cathode.. I get mine from Microcenter by me I'm not sure where you need to order them from but they have 7 inch or 12 inch in length depending on where you're trying to fit them but I don't remember the brand offhand..


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would go Darkside UV. I stand by them after getting the white Leds.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> If this fluid was UV reactive with UV Darkside in here.... I mean come on.. I know nothing about Cathodes though


I used Lamptron's UV led and was happy with the light and glow but the quality was so bad I returned them because half the leds wouldn't light up most of the time. I was impressed by the darkside ones from this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSd6uXItSyM


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I used Lamptron's UV led and was happy with the light and glow but the quality was so bad I returned them because half the leds wouldn't light up most of the time. I was impressed by the darkside ones from this video:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSd6uXItSyM


I dont have to watch the video. My Cpu lights up like a christmas tree when I boot it up. The Strips are sold in 5" (I think) 7" and 12" and all mine are hooked up to an 8 Way Swiftech 3pin Fan Controller Powered by a Sata Connector









TCO


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Any suggestions on which ones to buy?


I purchased 2 of the Darkside cold cathode UV lights a while back in an attempt to get my Gelid Wing UV Blue fans to react and I found the effect was quite weak, so then I purchased 2 of the Darkside LED UV lights and the result is much more appealing and noticeable. I'd recommend the LED version to anyone seeking a good UV light.

My camera and photography skills are so bad that these pictures don't do the lights any justice whatsoever but check this out anyways

Heres with the cold cathodes:





Heres with the LEDs:


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> These are the precut tubes, and they are too short to reach bot connectors. If there a difference in the SLI fittings and the fittings I already have, because I did not see sli specific ones, or I would have grabbed them for sure. These fittings were in a decent lot of fittings purchased from a user that never had a chance to implement them.


yes they are to short when you use it with EK waterblock, but if you have Bitspowers block , they are just the right length , i use these in Icy Blue Angel II and they are perfect, never able to use precut with EK block, always use custom cut


----------



## snef

yes UV LED is a lot better

i used 1 x 12" and 1 x 7.5" in this build and is more than enough


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yes UV LED is a lot better
> 
> i used 1 x 12" and 1 x 7.5" in this build and is more than enough
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And on the Left we Have SNEF Entering the Ring!!!









TCO


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yes they are to short when you use it with EK waterblock, but if you have Bitspowers block , they are just the right length , i use these in Icy Blue Angel II and they are perfect, never able to use precut with EK block, always use custom cut


That makes sense. Unfortunately, bitspower never has the blocks I need until it is too late.

Sadly, the tolerance for making the custom tubes was too thick. Had the 1000mm tube been the correct diameter, I would never have posted about this issue, as I tried those as well, before I posted.

Performance asked me to send them the tubes back, so they can find the root cause of the issues. I am sending a few spare fittings back so they can test them, and send the correct piece out as well.

In the end, had I not tried anything, I would have never had any problems.

The consensus: don't use the tubes I had that were imperial(too thin) , don't use the precut metric (too short) , don't use the non-recurring metric (too thick).


----------



## fisher6

Thanks for the help guys. I will be ordering two of these and have them shipped to Norway:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25139/lit-416/DarkSide_CONNECT_Dimmable_12_Modular_LED_Strip_-_UV_-_Black_Sleeved.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the help guys. I will be ordering two of these and have them shipped to Norway:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25139/lit-416/DarkSide_CONNECT_Dimmable_12_Modular_LED_Strip_-_UV_-_Black_Sleeved.html










how bout a build log????

TCO


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the help guys. I will be ordering two of these and have them shipped to Norway:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25139/lit-416/DarkSide_CONNECT_Dimmable_12_Modular_LED_Strip_-_UV_-_Black_Sleeved.html


https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/12in-30cm-darkside-connect-dimmable-rigid-led-strip-uv/

I'm not sure if you were just using frozencpu's site as a reference but if you were intending on ordering from there you'll find it quite hard as it's closed down now.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how bout a build log????
> 
> TCO


There will definitely be a build log (or semi?). I have all my hardware but it will be a new loop and in a new case (Define S) since it's more watercooling friendly compared to the h440. Still waiting for my case and some other small parts like tube longer res + top from EK.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/12in-30cm-darkside-connect-dimmable-rigid-led-strip-uv/
> 
> I'm not sure if you were just using frozencpu's site as a reference but if you were intending on ordering from there you'll find it quite hard as it's closed down now.


I saw that it was discontinued in some places. Any reason for this? Should I wait for a the new model? Saw this too:
http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/uv-purple-12-30cm-dimmable-pc-led-strip-clone.html


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> There will definitely be a build log (or semi?). I have all my hardware but it will be a new loop and in a new case (Define S) since it's more watercooling friendly compared to the h440. Still waiting for my case and some other small parts like tube longer res + top from EK.
> I saw that it was discontinued in some places. Any reason for this? Should I wait for a the new model? Saw this too:
> http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/uv-purple-12-30cm-dimmable-pc-led-strip-clone.html


That looks to be the same product we both linked earlier . As for the new model and them being discontinued I'm not sure to be honest.. I've poked around Daz's forums and I've watched all his latest videos and I don't recall hearing him mention anything about new models of his lights but he might just be keeping tight-lipped about it until he's ready to release. Quite frankly I'm not sure what he could improve on unless there's a spectrum of UV light that has even better results.. The current lights are extremely well made, look great and have a nice sleeving job as well as a fairly high density of LEDS.

edit:

Although you could probably email Daz and ask him whats going on in regards to the new model, he might advise you to hold off if they're coming soon


----------



## VSG

Alphacool XT45 triple 540, with a 7th port too:


----------



## wermad

Nice









Brought back memories of this:


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Alphacool XT45 triple 540, with a 7th port too:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Uh... did it come like this VSG?

That's what happened to one of my Alphacool radiators, but I was messing about with extenders plugged into the port and caused the damage... it leaked afterwards, the port wasn't properly aligned anymore.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well,the candy coating of the tube went to pot,it looked so bad....the thinners rag was got out immediately and it was removed.....

You know that cheap chrome plated plastic for kids toys? Yeah..just like that. So..polished copper it is.

Sleeving this weekend and I can wait to take finished pics of it.!

In the meantime...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,the candy coating of the tube went to pot,it looked so bad....the thinners rag was got out immediately and it was removed.....
> 
> You know that cheap chrome plated plastic for kids toys? Yeah..just like that. So..polished copper it is.
> 
> Sleeving this weekend and I can wait to take finished pics of it.!
> 
> In the meantime...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Look at the Colour of that Case B Neg.. Epic!

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brought back memories of this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The real bigfoot is not even posted here yet (Monsta triple 540)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uh... did it come like this VSG?
> 
> That's what happened to one of my Alphacool radiators, but I was messing about with extenders plugged into the port and caused the damage... it leaked afterwards, the port wasn't properly aligned anymore.


Yup. It's not as bad in reality as it looks in there but there is definitely a dent. This is a pretty old unit given how triple 180s don't move much, hence the copper screws and plugs also. Knowing this, a couple of kits of Mayhems Blitz Pro have also been ordered!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,the candy coating of the tube went to pot,it looked so bad....the thinners rag was got out immediately and it was removed.....
> 
> You know that cheap chrome plated plastic for kids toys? Yeah..just like that. So..polished copper it is.
> 
> Sleeving this weekend and I can wait to take finished pics of it.!
> 
> In the meantime...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love when folks stick w/ copper tube and polish it up. It does make the tube stand out more rather then blending in (since its so common now) w/ the brigh nickel or chrome finishes. Don't get me wrong, I love nickel/chrome finishes but its nice to see polished copper shine (pun intended) like that







. Did you seal the tube but any chance? Love the paint as well









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The real bigfoot is not even posted here yet (Monsta triple 540)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup. It's not as bad in reality as it looks in there but there is definitely a dent. This is a pretty old unit given how triple 180s don't move much, hence the copper screws and plugs also. Knowing this, a couple of kits of Mayhems Blitz Pro have also been ordered!


Good lord, forgot about that beast









I've noticed a few rads coming in like that from them. Since the plugs are not fitted on there, and the housing is slightly raised, is it some sort of manufacturing or packaging issue? Its just perplexing how this could happen during shipping if the end tanks are slightly recessed compared to other areas (that would take any impact, imho). I'm guessing its the copper tanks, not as tough as brass perhaps?

edit: I join CL again...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,the candy coating of the tube went to pot,it looked so bad....the thinners rag was got out immediately and it was removed.....
> 
> You know that cheap chrome plated plastic for kids toys? Yeah..just like that. So..polished copper it is.
> 
> Sleeving this weekend and I can wait to take finished pics of it.!
> 
> In the meantime...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love when folks stick w/ copper tube and polish it up. It does make the tube stand out more rather then blending in (since its so common now) w/ the brigh nickel or chrome finishes. Don't get me wrong, I love nickel/chrome finishes but its nice to see polished copper shine (pun intended) like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Did you seal the tube but any chance? Love the paint as well
Click to expand...

It adds warmth I think,monochromatic (And I dont mean James build before the indignant mob jump me) can be cold if you get what I mean. It takes an eye for the minimal to pull off a mono build. Copper looks less sterile and,as you point out,it picks the tube out from the background.

Goes nice with the paint job too,It looks really nice with the sides on. I painted them in a satin finish clear and the red is all gloss so there is a nice counter point,I wanted an armoured feel which the satin gunmetal brings nicely.

I use a wax compound to seal the tube,I have used clear before but it can alter the colour of the tube.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,the candy coating of the tube went to pot,it looked so bad....the thinners rag was got out immediately and it was removed.....
> 
> You know that cheap chrome plated plastic for kids toys? Yeah..just like that. So..polished copper it is.
> 
> Sleeving this weekend and I can wait to take finished pics of it.!
> 
> In the meantime...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Was going to say before you paint : keep the tubes in copper and polish even more but you are a magician so I was curious to see how would look with the painted tubes. Kind of glad how it turns out in the end since I think it looks astonishing


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In the meantime...
> 
> *snip*


Beautiful, you don't just build pcs, you make art


----------



## VSG

Some pics of the upcoming EK XE480 rad:

































Need to do something about my light box though!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Some pics of the upcoming EK XE480 rad:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to do something about my light box though!


beautiful .. only needs a screw protector and it's good.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Some pics of the upcoming EK XE480 rad:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to do something about my light box though!


Nice to see button hex screws. Still m3 and housing removable?


----------



## Gabrielzm

It is just the light or they change the internal material on the ports VSG? It looks a lot more like nickel that brass or copper on that shot with the Allen key...

On a side note playing with local acrylic tubing 12 mm OD and 8 mm ID and the thicker wall looks great with pastel. Definitely gives a different effect.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> beautiful .. only needs a screw protector and it's good.


Yeah but the provided screws are plenty fine and the core is recessed enough so it's not as bad as it seems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice to see button hex screws. Still m3 and housing removable?


Always was UNC 6-32, and the housing is as removable as with the PE- not as easy as XSPC AX but still removable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is just the light or they change the internal material on the ports VSG? It looks a lot more like nickel that brass or copper on that shot with the Allen key...
> 
> On a side note playing with local acrylic tubing 12 mm OD and 8 mm ID and the thicker wall looks great with pastel. Definitely gives a different effect.


Nope it is nickel color, I was surprised too. Need to ask about this.


----------



## wermad

Thought they were as they seemed more corse. When did they switch to imperial? The xt's were m3 (tapped these to m4).


----------



## VSG

I think with the XTX? I am not sure though, the first EK rad I had was the PE 480 and since then it's been all 6-32.


----------



## Hambone07si

Yeah, my EK PE is 6-32 thread, same with my Swiftechs, but my Feser X-Changer quad is m3, go figure lol.

Hey guys, and Wermad since you have the X9, what do you think the temp drop would be on my coolant if I went to push/pull on my 3 rads? I'm using the Coolermaster SickleFlows as they are doing just as good as a job as the Noctua's were. There wasn't even a 1c difference after testing them back and forth for a few hours straight. That's why I went back to the SickleFlows, and plus I like the color A LOT BETTER than those Noctua's LOL. I do give props tho to the Noctua's for being a little quieter and a different sound really, but performance wise, these are doing just as good and they are only $10 each vs $30 each, and that adds up quick when you're talking 10 fans ($100) vs ($300) or moving to 20 fans ($200) vs ($600) ..

You think it would drop my coolant temp a couple degrees while maxing out the system? Right now with it being 23.5c in my place, warm day, my coolant was reaching 29c while gaming at 99% usage on my Titan X @ 1452mhz / 7400mhz for about a hour on The Witcher 3 maxed out. Think that going push/pull my coolant would drop at least 2c or more? Or is it more of a "you have to try to find out" ?? LOL









Thanks,
Hambone

Oh, and that's the reading right where the coolant is coming out of my Titan X. I put the 2nd temp sensor right in the EK block instead of a 1/4" plug, so that is the hottest point in my loop for sure, before it hits any of the rads, the other temp sensor was reading about 2-3c lower that is in the back of my EK X-res 140 D5.


----------



## wermad

Ppcs.com a bit wacky recently....saw an xtx they have and it shows m3.


----------



## VSG

They tend to copy paste specs across a series and sometimes even multiple series as here. For example, my review of the be quiet! Silent Wings 2 fan is listed on the Pure Wings fan product


----------



## szeged

ppcs site is being awful for me the past 3 days or so.

First day i kept getting redirected to some other site with a bunch of errors saying the connection got refused.

day two, site refused to load resulting in a blank page every time.

today site is refusing to load and redirecting me to some error page every time.

ppcs needs a completely new site....again.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ppcs site is being awful for me the past 3 days or so.
> 
> First day i kept getting redirected to some other site with a bunch of errors saying the connection got refused.
> 
> day two, site refused to load resulting in a blank page every time.
> 
> today site is refusing to load and redirecting me to some error page every time.
> 
> ppcs needs a completely new site....again.


Yes I know what you mean. I went to print my RMA form out today before I was ready to go to the P.O. and I had to delay it an hour because their site kept linking to an error that I assumed was caused by their framework (something called Monsoon I believe?). Also when you log in to the site with Paypal (which I stupidly did when I placed my first orders rather than making a new account so kinda stuck now) you will constantly get syntax errors and have to keep logging in to get it to work. Oh and it will also log you out after about 5 minutes regardless of if you checked "keep me logged in".

It also took them a week to ship out an order I placed last Friday for seemingly no reason at all... I contacted them and suddenly my order was shipped out an hour after the rep responded to me. None of the items were even out of stock or showing as low or anything like that.

Now on top of that they appear to be getting DDOSed.


----------



## szeged

after fcpu went out of business the shipping team at ppcs got lazy or something, paid for shipping two days ago thinking i could get some of the build done this weekend...well no update to my order yesterday...k whatever...nothing today...okay thats annoying....they dont work saturday or sunday so i have to hope they remember my order even exists on monday. I dont think it takes 3 days to pack up a box with a few items.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> after fcpu went out of business the shipping team at ppcs got lazy or something, paid for shipping two days ago thinking i could get some of the build done this weekend...well no update to my order yesterday...k whatever...nothing today...okay thats annoying....they dont work saturday or sunday so i have to hope they remember my order even exists on monday. I dont think it takes 3 days to pack up a box with a few items.


Yep you have to pay the rush order if you want your items to ship before 2 days have passed. Also it seems like you have to place your order that morning otherwise they just refund your rush shipping if it's after hours and ship two days later.

The biggest bugger for me though is their double or even triple dipping on shipping. They will charge you for shipping on each order you place within the 2 days they haven't shipped your first order out, then put them all in the same box with that first order and ship them. So they charged you upwards of $20 for nothing. At the very least their shipping prices seem to have come down. I remember paying like $11-$13 per order back in feb/march for 2 day priority and now it's like $8. They also charge you for insurance which I have never understood since they take paypal... if the items come damaged PPCs are the ones out money with paypal, not me.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ppcs site is being awful for me the past 3 days or so.
> 
> First day i kept getting redirected to some other site with a bunch of errors saying the connection got refused.
> 
> day two, site refused to load resulting in a blank page every time.
> 
> today site is refusing to load and redirecting me to some error page every time.
> 
> ppcs needs a completely new site....again.


Dude that same crap was happening to me today. I ordered my EK X-top 3 days ago on Tuesday and everything was fine then, but today their site was doing all kinds of weird crap today. I would try to hit the back button and then get errors and then the page was half way down where it should be, then it was only a little bit of what the page should have been and then I couldn't do a thing. This was when I was at work, restarted my pc and same crap was happening so I just gave up LOL.

Also I have made 4 orders this past month, first 3 orders were all next day air and I paid the extra $3 for rush shipping and it went out the same day. This last order I placed on Tuesday morning and did priority shipping 2-3day and they didn't even respond til late Wednesday and I did get my X-top today tho. I did email them before and they said you have to pay the extra $3 rush if you want them to ship the same day, or else it would be a day or 2 before they got to it. So other people that are paying are jumping in front of you if you don't pay, which is BS IMO.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Dude that same crap was happening to me today. I ordered my EK X-top 3 days ago on Tuesday and everything was fine then, but today their site was doing all kinds of weird crap today. I would try to hit the back button and then get errors and then the page was half way down where it should be, then it was only a little bit of what the page should have been and then I couldn't do a thing. This was when I was at work, restarted my pc and same crap was happening so I just gave up LOL.
> 
> Also I have made 4 orders this past month, first 3 orders were all next day air and I paid the extra $3 for rush shipping and it went out the same day. This last order I placed on Tuesday morning and did priority shipping 2-3day and they didn't even respond til late Wednesday and I did get my X-top today tho. I did email them before and they said you have to pay the extra $3 rush if you want them to ship the same day, or else it would be a day or 2 before they got to it. So other people that are paying are jumping in front of you if you don't pay, which is BS IMO.


Just remember the rush shipping is something every reselling site does, it's not just a PPCS thing. I have always thought it was BS though since I first encountered it on newegg years ago.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They tend to copy paste specs across a series and sometimes even multiple series as here. For example, my review of the be quiet! Silent Wings 2 fan is listed on the Pure Wings fan product


I'm sure they switched as the XT I had a few years ago was m3. That along with the alphacools were the first victims of my drill to tap em to m4.

Even their site shows:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-rad-xt-360.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ppcs site is being awful for me the past 3 days or so.
> 
> First day i kept getting redirected to some other site with a bunch of errors saying the connection got refused.
> 
> day two, site refused to load resulting in a blank page every time.
> 
> today site is refusing to load and redirecting me to some error page every time.
> 
> ppcs needs a completely new site....again.


Yeah, same thing here too. I'm getting ready for an important order. They had everything I'm looking for except one item just went oos (







).


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just remember the rush shipping is something every reselling site does, it's not just a PPCS thing. I have always thought it was BS though since I first encountered it on newegg years ago.


Oh I know bud, I have seen it many many times. I always pay the rush shipping on a next day air shipment no matter what. I would be REAL PISSED if I paid for next day air prices and didn't get it the next day, but that has never happened, even tho I shouldn't have to pay a rush fee when already paying for next day air. That's the point of next day air isn't it? LOL.

So Wermad, what do you think about going to push/pull on my rads? You have push/pull on your custom loop. Did that shave a few degrees off for you or not really? Just wanting some input from someone with a similar setup. I will go buy 10 more fans tomorrow morning if it will knock 3c off my load temps of my coolant. If only 1c , then I don't really think it would be worth the extra money, draining my loop, cutting down tubes, installing fans (after paying for 10 more), refill loop and bleed all air, while it's drained I will put my 2nd D5 in the loop since I got my X-top today and installed it. That's a good bit of work, but I want to add the 2nd pump anyways really.

But what do you think? 3c or better or no??


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just remember the rush shipping is something every reselling site does, it's not just a PPCS thing. I have always thought it was BS though since I first encountered it on newegg years ago.


Newegg's rush shipping is a lie though. The time of day you order is all that really seems to matter. I have premier which automatically gives rush shipping and it has made literally no difference vs before in the time of receiving my orders.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just remember the rush shipping is something every reselling site does, it's not just a PPCS thing. I have always thought it was BS though since I first encountered it on newegg years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I know bud, I have seen it many many times. I always pay the rush shipping on a next day air shipment no matter what. I would be REAL PISSED if I paid for next day air prices and didn't get it the next day, but that has never happened, even tho I shouldn't have to pay a rush fee when already paying for next day air. That's the point of next day air isn't it? LOL.
> 
> So Wermad, *what do you think about going to push/pull on my rads?* You have push/pull on your custom loop. Did that shave a few degrees off for you or not really? Just wanting some input from someone with a similar setup. I will go buy 10 more fans tomorrow morning if it will knock 3c off my load temps of my coolant. If only 1c , then I don't really think it would be worth the extra money, draining my loop, cutting down tubes, installing fans (after paying for 10 more), refill loop and bleed all air, while it's drained I will put my 2nd D5 in the loop since I got my X-top today and installed it. That's a good bit of work, but I want to add the 2nd pump anyways really.
> 
> But what do you think? 3c or better or no??
Click to expand...

It really comes down to how much rad space you have and what your Dt is.

The less rad space you have, and the higher your Dt, then the more you'll benefit from P-P. If you're >10C, then it'll help 2 to 3C, maybe a bit more

If you're already at minimal Dts, < 5C, then you won't get squat going to P-P.

If you're in the middle, you'll maybe get 1 to 2C

Fan speed also has some effect on how much gain can come from P-P, usually you'll see better gains going P-P with fans <1000 rpm than with fans > 1200

Keep in mind that these are general observations, and that ymmv.

Darlene


----------



## darwing




----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It really comes down to how much rad space you have and what your Dt is.
> 
> The less rad space you have, and the higher your Dt, then the more you'll benefit from P-P. If you're >10C, then it'll help 2 to 3C, maybe a bit more
> 
> If you're already at minimal Dts, < 5C, then you won't get squat going to P-P.
> 
> If you're in the middle, you'll maybe get 1 to 2C
> 
> Fan speed also has some effect on how much gain can come from P-P, usually you'll see better gains going P-P with fans <1000 rpm than with fans > 1200
> 
> Keep in mind that these are general observations, and that ymmv.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for chiming in Diva









Well it seems my Dt (delta's I'm taking that as) seem to get worst the hotter it is inside my place. On some days my AC just can't fight the hot sun beating down on my place when it's 90+ here (32c+) , On a 80 (26.5c) degree day and not so sunny isn't so bad but the sun all day really heats my place up lol .. If I keep my ambient at 20c everything is golden and my Dts arn't >5c and my gaming temps are only about 32-34c. Day like today and my ambients in the house were around 24c well then my dts were hitting like 8-9c and then my titan x was hitting like 41-42c.. There's gonna be days hitting close to 100 (37c) here and then I'm sure Dts will be hitting around 11-13c from inside ambient.

I guess I'm really asking about when it's on the bad end of that when Dts are >9c .. I would like to keep them at <5c and I'd be real happy with it even if ambient are 25c. I did push pull on my H55 setup on the Gtx 780ti's and that was huge going from push to push/pull. I know that's way different and we're talking little to none on rad space but that alone dropped delta 12-15c just adding the 2nd fan. I just want to shave 3c or above on the bad days, and be able to turn down to silent on the cool days. I guess I'm pretty much answering myself now and saying go for it, just means open the wallet and get to draining







. I do want to add the 2nd pump now that I got the new X-top tho. Guess it's 10 more fans and 2 more Nzxt 10x fan hubs (love those now) and couple hours of fun lol.

Was just seeing if it was going to knock off a few degrees. I know some have almost the same thing going on and figured they might have some temp difference to say with them bieng on push/pull already.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> after fcpu went out of business the shipping team at ppcs got lazy or something, paid for shipping two days ago thinking i could get some of the build done this weekend...well no update to my order yesterday...k whatever...nothing today...okay thats annoying....they dont work saturday or sunday so i have to hope they remember my order even exists on monday. I dont think it takes 3 days to pack up a box with a few items.


You getting "forbidden site" now?


----------



## szeged

it actually loaded fine just now when i tried it although it took a second to actually load everything. PPCS really needs to re do their site again, they went from stone age to...just bad.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Well PPCs came back and magically had a Bitspower nickel Titan X block in stock







I jumped on that immediately. Hopefully it was actually in stock.


----------



## andl

Once you go black there is no way back. Added another 200mm rad in the pack


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Once you go black there is no way back. Added another 200mm rad in the pack


Stacking rads like that doesnt work andl,you will not gain much as you are trying to cool with air that is warmed by the preceding rad.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Thanks for chiming in Diva
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well it seems my Dt (delta's I'm taking that as) seem to get worst the hotter it is inside my place. On some days my AC just can't fight the hot sun beating down on my place when it's 90+ here (32c+) , On a 80 (26.5c) degree day and not so sunny isn't so bad but the sun all day really heats my place up lol .. If I keep my ambient at 20c everything is golden and my Dts arn't >5c and my gaming temps are only about 32-34c. Day like today and my ambients in the house were around 24c well then my dts were hitting like 8-9c and then my titan x was hitting like 41-42c.. There's gonna be days hitting close to 100 (37c) here and then I'm sure Dts will be hitting around 11-13c from inside ambient.
> 
> I guess I'm really asking about when it's on the bad end of that when Dts are >9c .. I would like to keep them at <5c and I'd be real happy with it even if ambient are 25c. I did push pull on my H55 setup on the Gtx 780ti's and that was huge going from push to push/pull. I know that's way different and we're talking little to none on rad space but that alone dropped delta 12-15c just adding the 2nd fan. I just want to shave 3c or above on the bad days, and be able to turn down to silent on the cool days. I guess I'm pretty much answering myself now and saying go for it, just means open the wallet and get to draining
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I do want to add the 2nd pump now that I got the new X-top tho. Guess it's 10 more fans and 2 more Nzxt 10x fan hubs (love those now) and couple hours of fun lol.
> 
> Was just seeing if it was going to knock off a few degrees. I know some have almost the same thing going on and figured they might have some temp difference to say with them bieng on push/pull already.


Hey @Hambone07si

If you still running the PE rads as in your spces..
I don't think you'll get much extra performance from adding additional fans and going Push/Pull.
The PE has such a thin core (just ~21mm) that it's kinda optimized for single fan installations.
Generally rads with thicker cores will benefit more from Push/Pull assemblies.

Here's the PE360 Delta data from my testing.
As you can see the Delta's don't improve much at all between Push Only and Push/Pull, more so at high fan speeds like I think you're intending to run.



hope it helps


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Once you go black there is no way back. Added another 200mm rad in the pack
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


really tight fit eh


----------



## aerial

Back to watercooling.

Before:



After:







Radiator:



Pump + radiator and where it is hidden:





Silence and great performance, I'm quite pleased with results.


----------



## erso44

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Back to watercooling.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator:
> 
> 
> 
> Pump + radiator and where it is hidden:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silence and great performance, I'm quite pleased with results.






She´s soooo cute <3
I mean your PC xD


----------



## p5ych00n5

New Loop, going for a more minimalist straightline aesthetic


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Stacking rads like that doesnt work andl,you will not gain much as you are trying to cool with air that is warmed by the preceding rad.


lets see results first


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> lets see results first










wait......







You're serious.. Oh...

The Cautious One


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Stacking rads like that doesnt work andl,you will not gain much as you are trying to cool with air that is warmed by the preceding rad.
> 
> 
> 
> lets see results first
Click to expand...

Its already been thoroughly tested mate,you are not going to gain from it....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It really comes down to how much rad space you have and what your Dt is.
> 
> The less rad space you have, and the higher your Dt, then the more you'll benefit from P-P. If you're >10C, then it'll help 2 to 3C, maybe a bit more
> 
> If you're already at minimal Dts, < 5C, then you won't get squat going to P-P.
> 
> If you're in the middle, you'll maybe get 1 to 2C
> 
> Fan speed also has some effect on how much gain can come from P-P, usually you'll see better gains going P-P with fans <1000 rpm than with fans > 1200
> 
> Keep in mind that these are general observations, and that ymmv.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for chiming in Diva
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well it seems my Dt (delta's I'm taking that as) seem to get worst the hotter it is inside my place. On some days my AC just can't fight the hot sun beating down on my place when it's 90+ here (32c+) , On a 80 (26.5c) degree day and not so sunny isn't so bad but the sun all day really heats my place up lol .. If I keep my ambient at 20c everything is golden and my Dts arn't >5c and my gaming temps are only about 32-34c. Day like today and my ambients in the house were around 24c well then my dts were hitting like 8-9c and then my titan x was hitting like 41-42c.. There's gonna be days hitting close to 100 (37c) here and then I'm sure Dts will be hitting around 11-13c from inside ambient.
> 
> I guess I'm really asking about when it's on the bad end of that when Dts are >9c .. I would like to keep them at <5c and I'd be real happy with it even if ambient are 25c. I did push pull on my H55 setup on the Gtx 780ti's and that was huge going from push to push/pull. I know that's way different and we're talking little to none on rad space but that alone dropped delta 12-15c just adding the 2nd fan. I just want to shave 3c or above on the bad days, and be able to turn down to silent on the cool days. I guess I'm pretty much answering myself now and saying go for it, just means open the wallet and get to draining
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I do want to add the 2nd pump now that I got the new X-top tho. Guess it's 10 more fans and 2 more Nzxt 10x fan hubs (love those now) and couple hours of fun lol.
> 
> Was just seeing if it was going to knock off a few degrees. I know some have almost the same thing going on and figured they might have some temp difference to say with them bieng on push/pull already.
Click to expand...

Before you break out the wallet and begin to punish it with fan purchases. . . .

Why not go for thicker rads
















With the thinner rads and faster fans, as f_f points out, airflow isn't your weak point.

If there's room for P-P fans, there should be room for 1 set of fans and a thicker rad.

Trying to maintain low Dts with high ambients requires a lot of rad volume.

Here in the Tropics, that's my constant battle, which is why I went to hybrid chiller setups in all my hi-end builds . . . . Sometimes there's just no such thing as enough rad space









Hopefully, f_f will chime in and add some additional perspective.

Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Before you break out the wallet and begin to punish it with fan purchases. . . .
> 
> Why not go for thicker rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the thinner rads and faster fans, as f_f points out, airflow isn't your weak point.
> 
> If there's room for P-P fans, there should be room for 1 set of fans and a thicker rad.
> 
> Trying to maintain low Dts with high ambients requires a lot of rad volume.
> 
> Here in the Tropics, that's my constant battle, which is why I went to hybrid chiller setups in all my hi-end builds . . . . Sometimes there's just no such thing as enough rad space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully, f_f will chime in and add some additional perspective.
> 
> Darlene


Well...
I would say that both his component and delta temps are fine, considering it's a working system and not a benching rig.

If striving for absolute cooling performance and better temps though, then rad upgrades, are as you suggest, the logical next step.
Sometimes the thrill of the chase overtakes logic and we chase unobtainable goals.
If ambients under 25 and deltas below 10, improvements will be harder to achieve without large surface area.

I have another review ready to publish today with thermal performance results that will really impress, just need editor's tick of approval

*Edit*: here Delta temps of XXX rad which will be published today.
here we can observe the decent changes from Push Only to Push/Pull, where you can get the 3° drop in delta temps.
It appears tuned much better for Push/Pull, but the Push Only results will surprise.
Notice that it needs a decent flow rate to perform as it's best.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Back to watercooling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator:
> 
> 
> 
> Pump + radiator and where it is hidden:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silence and great performance, I'm quite pleased with results.


Nice looking stuff,where did you get the table from ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Before you break out the wallet and begin to punish it with fan purchases. . . .
> 
> Why not go for thicker rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the thinner rads and faster fans, as f_f points out, airflow isn't your weak point.
> 
> If there's room for P-P fans, there should be room for 1 set of fans and a thicker rad.
> 
> Trying to maintain low Dts with high ambients requires a lot of rad volume.
> 
> Here in the Tropics, that's my constant battle, which is why I went to hybrid chiller setups in all my hi-end builds . . . . Sometimes there's just no such thing as enough rad space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully, f_f will chime in and add some additional perspective.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Well...
> I would say that both his component and delta temps are fine, considering it's a working system and not a benching rig.
> 
> If striving for absolute cooling performance and better temps though, then rad upgrades, are as you suggest, the logical next step.
> Sometimes the thrill of the chase overtakes logic and we chase unobtainable goals.
> If ambients under 25 and deltas below 10, improvements will be harder to achieve without large surface area.
> 
> I have another review ready to publish today with thermal performance results that will really impress, just need editor's tick of approval
> 
> *Edit*: here Delta temps of XXX rad which will be published today.
> here we can observe the decent changes from Push Only to Push/Pull, where you can get the 3° drop in delta temps.
> It appears tuned much better for Push/Pull, but the Push Only results will surprise.
> Notice that it needs a decent flow rate to perform as it's best.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Wow . . . . . Looks like for a jump like that, the tube flow must go laminar as the overall rate goes below 1GPM . . .

Dual pumps recommended . .









D.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wow . . . . . Looks like for a jump like that, the tube flow must go laminar as the overall rate goes below 1GPM . . .
> 
> Dual pumps recommended . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Yes and No.
Turbulent flow does disappear somewhere between 0.5 and 1.0 gpm going into laminar.
but the rad itself is very low in it's restriction level at 0.17 DP PSI @ 1.0gpm,
so dual pumps aren't a requirement for the rad alone, but maybe a consideration for the total restriction of the loop's components to keep flow rate up around the 1.0 gpm mark


----------



## kitg90

had a leak! didn't tighten the gpu fittings when running part 2!

water spilled on the mobo and gpu.

I've taken the cpu block off and used a datavac to dry it. I plan to put it out in the sun tomorrow for the whole day. I reckon I won't turn on the mobo for maybe a few days.

Advice on the gpu should I take off the block?

Thanks guys

@TheCautiousOne

I swear to god I read you had a spill once so any advice is appreciated!


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Nice looking stuff,where did you get the table from ?


custom order


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> had a leak! didn't tighten the gpu fittings when running part 2!
> 
> water spilled on the mobo and gpu.
> 
> I've taken the cpu block off and used a datavac to dry it. I plan to put it out in the sun tomorrow for the whole day. I reckon I won't turn on the mobo for maybe a few days.
> 
> Advice on the gpu should I take off the block?
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> @TheCautiousOne
> 
> I swear to god I read you had a spill *once* so any advice is appreciated!










Just once you think? Oh boy. Try about 5 leaks.









Advice is to dry what you know is or has been wet. Act like you don't have a computer untill you have all problems resolved. Retighten fittings and make sure you are squared away.

The Cautious One


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just once you think? Oh boy. Try about 5 leaks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Advice is to dry what you know is or has been wet. Act like you don't have a computer untill you have all problems resolved. Retighten fittings and make sure you are squared away.
> 
> The Cautious One


Or just be less stubborn than TCO and Air test your loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> had a leak! didn't tighten the gpu fittings when running part 2!
> 
> water spilled on the mobo and gpu.
> 
> I've taken the cpu block off and used a datavac to dry it. I plan to put it out in the sun tomorrow for the whole day. I reckon I won't turn on the mobo for maybe a few days.
> 
> Advice on the gpu should I take off the block?
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> @TheCautiousOne
> 
> I swear to god I read you had a spill once so any advice is appreciated!


It happens, even to the experienced ones. I had two angle fittings/adapters leak on me. My mb got wet around the vrm area. I cleaned it with a paper towel and took a hair dryer (low setting) to it for about 20-30 minutes (taking brief breaks in between).

Here are some basic tips. Before you fill your loop:
_double and triple check all fittings. Tighten by hand and make sure there's nothing loose or half way done. This alone can save the day.

-Don't power the mb and gpu's, keep these connectors off imho. Just plug in your pump to the psu, then jump the psu (paper clip, green + any black.

-have towels and paper towels handy. The blue shop ones work great imho (but are expensive), though house hold paper towels work. I keep a few cloth towels (make sure they don't have static).

-Some ppl like to stuff paper towels to catch any leaks.

If you get a leak even after triple checking everything:

-Stop your pump and identify the leak as quickly as possible to catch or stop w/ the water w/ a towel

-If its a slow leak, using paper towels (especially the blue ones) stuffed in your case, see where there's moist spots.

-You more then likely have to drain the entire thing to fix the leak. But make sure you find the leak before doing this.

-Make sure you have a back up plan in case you have to replace something (ie, air coolers). If its a fitting or rad, you can always bypass it if you can manage w/ a temporary setup.

-Keep calm and just fix the leak and dry your components. Use the hair dryer (don't recommend a heat gun tbh) for quicker drying. Don't be afraid to pull the blocks and the heatsinks as liquid can hide the tiniest of places. If you want to air dry it, look for a dry place and leave it for a few days.


----------



## kitg90

Thanks for the advice guys yea will definitely not use it for a few days. Will leave out the mobo in the sun tomorrow and will have to take off the gpu block as well. Cheers!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys yea will definitely not use it for a few days. Will leave out the mobo in the sun tomorrow and will have to take off the gpu block as well. Cheers!


You don't have to leave mobo in sun, Just take it out and gander at it, look it over and try to spot wetness.









TCO

Remember that a waterblock and the water is self contained, the leak would only be from the fittings unless the block is cracked (visual inspection) and check seals of GPU block if it was removed to sand or polish the acrylic


----------



## p5ych00n5

That moment when your LED strips if .000000000000000000000000000000000001 mm out of square refuse to work


----------



## p5ych00n5

Which serves me right considering I couldn't wait a month for the LED strips I ordered


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I got my Magicool rads in the mail from PPCs today. I opened my 420 rad box to find this  notice the top right corner 

Factory machining error, or are PPCs trying to pass a used rad off as new?


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Well...
> I would say that both his component and delta temps are fine, considering it's a working system and not a benching rig.
> 
> If striving for absolute cooling performance and better temps though, then rad upgrades, are as you suggest, the logical next step.
> Sometimes the thrill of the chase overtakes logic and we chase unobtainable goals.
> If ambients under 25 and deltas below 10, improvements will be harder to achieve without large surface area.
> 
> I have another review ready to publish today with thermal performance results that will really impress, just need editor's tick of approval
> 
> *Edit*: here Delta temps of XXX rad which will be published today.
> here we can observe the decent changes from Push Only to Push/Pull, where you can get the 3° drop in delta temps.
> It appears tuned much better for Push/Pull, but the Push Only results will surprise.
> Notice that it needs a decent flow rate to perform as it's best.


Nice!! Thanks f_f for chiming in too. The fans I'm running are 2000rpm hooked up to a 30w x 6 fan controller so I have multiple fans per channel so they all stay inline with each other. It can do 6 of my fans no prob off of 1 channel so push/pull with a 360mm rad won't be fighting at all. Seeing your review info there shows me exactly what I'm looking for really. That is the temp drop that I am after and I am sure that I have the flow to keep it at 1.5gpm easily if not more. After my loop was completely built and just had to hook up the lines to the pump/res, I often blow through the tubes just a little (I KNOW I JUST OPENED UP FOR A LOT OF JOKES LOL) to see how restricted it is, this loop has very little restriction, and that is also seen by filling the loop and seeing how fast the coolant is pulled out of the res. The D5 pumps are insane for how power full they are. I have 1 on my loop now, but I have a 2nd with just a X-top on it and I was going to put them both inline together for extra reliability more than just extra flow, but if both helps, I have both.

I'm pretty sure I can go off of your 1850rpm testing with my 2000rpm fans and be pretty close in comparison. If I could get that same drop there I'd be happy. Can I ask what your ambient was during that testing? It seems that my scenario changes as ambient goes up, Dts get worst some.

Thanks Diva too, I appreciate your help always!









The bottom rad in my case is the quad 480mm and that one is 60mm thick, the other 2 are 360mm and those are around 33mm thick. I was using what I have really before buying new rads and shelving these one's again. I hate seeing so much money sitting on a shelf and not being used lol. I may end up buying 2 more quads that are around 60mm thick in the near future, guess I can always sell the other ones I got. Liking the looks of those new EK XTX rads that are coming out soon. Maybe add 2 of those up top and pull the 2 360's??


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I got my Magicool rads in the mail from PPCs today. I opened my 420 rad box to find this  notice the top right corner
> 
> Factory machining error, or are PPCs trying to pass a used rad off as new?


The rad doesn't look used at all.. may i ask as the picture is unclear what's the white piece ? is it a stuck cardboard or is it a silicon filling?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I got my Magicool rads in the mail from PPCs today. I opened my 420 rad box to find this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> notice the top right corner
> 
> 
> 
> Factory machining error, or are PPCs trying to pass a used rad off as new?


Yeah it's not used but it should be replaced. Send ppcs a polite email with a picture and they will set you up an RMA. RMA with ppcs is fairly painless, but I think you'll be out a little shipping cost.


----------



## Hambone07si

or a touch of black paint goes a long way lol


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> The rad doesn't look used at all.. may i ask as the picture is unclear what's the white piece ? is it a stuck cardboard or is it a silicon filling?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yeah it's not used but it should be replaced. Send ppcs a polite email with a picture and they will set you up an RMA. RMA with ppcs is fairly painless, but I think you'll be out a little shipping cost.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> or a touch of black paint goes a long way lol


It's a piece of the side of the radiator underneat the shroud or whatever its called, that was hanging down. It fell off shortly after I moved the rad around 

Nah I'm not gonna RMA especially if it's just a machining error. It would cost me 17.95 to ship it (USPS game box is the only thing under $20 that could fit a 420mm rad). Just a bit disconcerting to see, but hey I only paid 44.95 for it so I guess you get what you pay for. I could have easily spent $90 or more on a better quality rad but decided to go with Magicool especially because the performance difference isn't very big at all with 1200RPM fans.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> or a touch of black paint goes a long way lol


I agree. I would flush it and leak test it, if it don't leak then touch it up and go with it. A small visual defect that will never be seen.


----------



## andl

Interesting but with dual rads in pack I get 0 degrees difference from single radiator and there is no difference between 5 and 12 volt fan speed


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Interesting but with dual rads in pack I get 0 degrees difference from single radiator and there is no difference between 5 and 12 volt fan speed


You Would have results period if you had the rad mounted to the top of the case (Not sandwiched rads)

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Interesting but with dual rads in pack I get 0 degrees difference from single radiator and there is no difference between 5 and 12 volt fan speed


Well since you are stacking the rads it doesn't matter if you went from 1 to 50 of them like that. You aren't ever going to see a difference because you are blowing warm air from the 1st one into the 2nd one. IT DOESN'T WORK


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Would have results period if you had the rad mounted to the top of the case (Not sandwiched rads)
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well since you are stacking the rads it doesn't matter if you went from 1 to 50 of them like that. You aren't ever going to see a difference because you are blowing warm air from the 1st one into the 2nd one. IT DOESN'T WORK


it works for cars. why its not working for pc. interesting


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Interesting but with dual rads in pack I get 0 degrees difference from single radiator and there is no difference between 5 and 12 volt fan speed


mount the rad somewhere else. and you will see the difference.

I don't know what's with people wanting to sandwich radiators a lot.. this is like the 10th post or something in 2 days about people doing this. we have been trying to persuade people that it's not functional and Stren had lots of testing done on this. Just place your rad and give it its own fans and you will notice the difference.

Also please use propper fans


----------



## szeged

because cars have air moving at 70MPH or faster over the radiators and even then it would still be better to not have the rads sandwiched.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> it works for cars. why its not working for pc. interesting


Because in cars you are talking about 90c water ... in PC cooling we are talking about 28C water. the air int he street will 100% be less than the 90C your rads are at. but at home. when you stack them like they mold together to reach around your ambient temperature. spread the cooling space and you will see it.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> it works for cars. why its not working for pc. interesting


a car has water temperature near 100c. Radiators become much more efficient at high water temp.

A pc custom loop water temp is +10-20c above ambient which is going lower the rads efficiency.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> *
> it works for cars.* why its not working for pc. interesting


Because this isn't a car. Your prior statement might spark some interest for some.

TCO

EDIT: Oh GOODNESS. NINJAD LIKE CRAZY








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> mount the rad somewhere else. and you will see the difference.
> 
> I don't know what's with people wanting to sandwich radiators a lot.. this is like the 10th post or something in 2 days about people doing this. *we have been trying to persuade people* that it's not functional and Stren had lots of testing done on this. *Just place your rad and give it its own fans* and you will notice the difference.
> 
> Also please use propper fans


Not even persuading. Giving you facts. B Neg already said that this wasn't going to go well for them.

Like we said earlier. You would do better putting the rad on top of the case in a slot or whatnot.

This is computer, not a ham sandwich.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Also one isn't a radiator in a car its a AC condensor isn't it? anyways they are always much smaller and they are designed so they aren't a big impact at 40+ MPH

... so actually it doesn't work on cars either


----------



## mammapin

Watercooling pics incoming just blocking this


----------



## Hambone07si

Also a car isn't going to mount a radiator above your head inside the car, or on your door panel and put a fan on it, or in the trunk and put a fan on it. A car uses the force of air since it is meant to move FORWARDS and uses free forced air for the physics of a automobile already to it's advantage, so it puts all the radiators in front, and if that doesn't work, then the fans turn on to help it out, but yes, some ford trucks have around 7 of them all in the front and they are stacked up by each other.

PC isn't a Car, bottom line


----------



## andl

Here is my temps for air and water


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Here is my temps for air and water
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


10C drop on water.

TCO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Also a car isn't going to mount a radiator above your head inside the car, or on your door panel and put a fan on it, or in the trunk and put a fan on it. A car uses the force of air since it is meant to move FORWARDS and uses free forced air for the physics of a automobile already to it's advantage, so it puts all the radiators in front, and if that doesn't work, then the fans turn on to help it out, but yes, *some ford truck*s have around 7 of them all in the front and they are stacked up by each other.
> 
> PC isn't a Car, bottom line


Theres your problem


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 10C drop on water.
> 
> TCO
> Theres your problem


It's not 10 it's 3







. Ya this experiment failed. Both radiators is hot


----------



## TheCautiousOne

the first pic is 78c to 68c.. Thats 10C.

TCO


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> the first pic is 78c to 68c.. Thats 10C.
> 
> TCO


Loop is heating up with heaven benchmark with extreme OpenGL full screen. And now it's 2 degrees different


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Loop is heating up with heaven benchmark with extreme OpenGL full screen. And now it's 2 degrees different


One card is watercooled and the other isn't? And you have a 3C temp difference?









Im really trying to understand how that is possible.

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Loop is heating up with heaven benchmark with extreme OpenGL full screen. And now it's 2 degrees different


when a gpu is properly water cooled, you should see temps around 32-40c depending on your ambients. At temps that high, you're not taking advantage of what water cooling does. Really, look at how many of us here are on water cooling and look at how many of us use 200mm rads too. Those really aren't what you want. Get a single 120mm H55 from corsair and a Kraken G10 bracket and your temps would be more than twice as good as what you are seeing and that's just a $60 rad, pump, block all in one with a $20 piece of metal to mount it to the gpu LOL. Put a 2nd fan on the H55 and you would be way better as well.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> One card is watercooled and the other isn't? And you have a 3C temp difference?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im really trying to understand how that is possible.
> 
> TCO


yep. thats right.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

that ford gt40 has a ton of rads but they aren't stacked like that last I checked. they are in all of the gaps in the body


----------



## Wirerat

My sons 3gb gtx 580 has a pretty heavy oc at 1000mhz 1.2v and it never goes above 56c.

Thats with cpu+gpu in loop with 120x4 worth of rad space.

The water cooled 580 should be lower.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> *yep. thats right.*


No it's not right. Something is wrong, unless the ambients in your house are around 70C

TCO


----------



## tatmMRKIV

is you pump speed up? and what are the fan specs? is yopur pump PWM is it setup correctly?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Interesting but with dual rads in pack I get 0 degrees difference from single radiator and there is no difference between 5 and 12 volt fan speed


If your airflow is into the case, (as it looks to be) then you have the rads connected backwards . . .

The warmest water should come into the downstream (airflow wise) rad, and then go to the rad with the fresh outside air.

You need to try to maintain a somewhat constant gradient between the air thru the rad and the water in it.

When you run the warmest coolant into the coolest air rad, you kill anything you might otherwise gain from the second rad.

B-Neg was spot on earlier, this has been tested 9 ways to Sunday, and it never nets much, but setup backwards, and it could have been even worse than a single rad.

Fix the flow order, water into the inner rad first,r and retest, might pick up a degree or two.

Darlene


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If your airflow is into the case, (as it looks to be) then you have the rads connected backwards . . .
> 
> The warmest water should come into the downstream (airflow wise) rad, and then go to the rad with the fresh outside air.
> 
> You need to try to maintain a somewhat constant gradient between the air thru the rad and the water in it.
> 
> When you run the warmest coolant into the coolest air rad, you kill anything you might otherwise gain from the second rad.
> 
> B-Neg was spot on earlier, this has been tested 9 ways to Sunday, and it never nets much, but setup backwards, and it could have been even worse than a single rad.
> 
> Fix the flow order, water into the inner rad first,r and retest, might pick up a degree or two.
> 
> Darlene


water flow is correct
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> is you pump speed up? and what are the fan specs? is yopur pump PWM is it setup correctly?


its d5 on 3 speed


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> when a gpu is properly water cooled, you should see temps around 32-40c depending on your ambients. At temps that high, you're not taking advantage of what water cooling does. Really, look at how many of us here are on water cooling and look at how many of us use 200mm rads too. Those really aren't what you want. Get a single 120mm H55 from corsair and a Kraken G10 bracket and your temps would be more than twice as good as what you are seeing and that's just a $60 rad, pump, block all in one with a $20 piece of metal to mount it to the gpu LOL. Put a 2nd fan on the H55 and you would be way better as well.


card is on ek full cover block, cpu is on ek supreme block. pump is d5. dont think some h55 might compare to this. i guess i'm out of air flow in this small case


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> card is on ek full cover block, cpu is on ek supreme block. pump is d5. dont think some h55 might compare to this. i guess i'm out of air flow in this small case


no, youre running rads stacked which isnt good. accept the fact it doesnt work and stop trying to make excuses. everyone has told you what would happen. diva is the only person here telling you almost what you want to hear. do you need links to the testing where the previously posted graphs were first posted?
btw, an h55 does a wonderful job of cooling a gpu.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no, youre running rads stacked which isnt good. accept the fact it doesnt work and stop trying to make excuses. everyone has told you what would happen. diva is the only person here telling you almost what you want to hear. do you need links to the testing where the previously posted graphs were first posted?
> btw, an h55 does a wonderful job of cooling a gpu.


as i said, experiment failed...


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> card is on ek full cover block, cpu is on ek supreme block. pump is d5. dont think some h55 might compare to this. i guess i'm out of air flow in this small case


PFFF, I could make a H55 with just the stock fan run CIRCLES around your setup dude. Don't go there because we are trying to help you out and we know what works and doesn't, and you were told before you did this. Don't start questioning what we know does work, because that's when people will stop helping you.

I had a H55 on each of my 780ti's that were overclocked to 1252mhz on the core, not stock 772mhz as your 580, and my max gpu temps were only 45c, not 79c with 2 x 200m rads and a D5 pump, and hell, a D5 pump alone costs more than a H55 and a kraken G10 combined.

Go to the Kraken G10 thread and you might learn something









This was 2x H55's on 2x Gtx780ti's and max temps were both 45c at full load with Heaven running for 20min


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> i guess i'm out of air flow in this small case


simple.... rad sandwiches just dont work...plain and simple there is no re-inventing the wheel here some very smart people have proven this more than once.

take 1 rad away, and tidy up the internals of the case and youll see an improvement


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> PFFF, I could make a H55 with just the stock fan run CIRCLES around your setup dude. Don't go there because we are trying to help you out and we know what works and doesn't, and you were told before you did this. Don't start questioning what we know does work, because that's when people will stop helping you.
> 
> I had a H55 on each of my 780ti's that were overclocked to 1252mhz on the core, not stock 772mhz as your 580, and my max gpu temps were only 45c, not 79c with 2 x 200m rads and a D5 pump, and hell, a D5 pump alone costs more than a H55 and a kraken G10 combined.
> 
> Go to the Kraken G10 thread and you might learn something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was 2x H55's on 2x Gtx780ti's and max temps were both 45c at full load with Heaven running for 20min


I'm not questioning your experience. That build looks interesting but can't get it here. Shipping costs more than the unit itself


----------



## wjturner78

fabricating polypanels for my rig


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*


You are clearly in a place without earthquakes







I have an antec skate with wheels to easily move my tower to clean the floor, but on top of a table it will fly out at the first medium earth shake.







Very nice setup.


----------



## aerial

Correct, but those wheels have break, you can lock it. Impossible to move it, there are rubber orings too. It really isn't any different than normal case feet.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> it works for cars. why its not working for pc. interesting


Because when the car is moving, air is being forced through the rad constantly. Hence why you can get away with a big FMIC + RAD. Or stacking them.

With PC's, its stationary and the only air its getting are from the fan.


----------



## Wirerat

Finally done some water temp testing.
According to this thermometer my ambient is 23.8c.

Aida64 load on CPU/fpu/GPU after 30 mins. GPU max 45c (roughly 10C above the water temp just as someone informed in this thread).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







X264 Load on CPU only 1 loop max cpu temp 65c


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Next is GPU only 2 loops of valley ultra HD. GPU temp is 40c max.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







My delta T is 10c or below. This is a bit better than I expected. I dont think more rad space will gain much with the delta already into the <10c range during normal non synthetic use.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Nice!! Thanks f_f for chiming in too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The fans I'm running are 2000rpm hooked up to a 30w x 6 fan controller so I have multiple fans per channel so they all stay inline with each other. It can do 6 of my fans no prob off of 1 channel so push/pull with a 360mm rad won't be fighting at all. Seeing your review info there shows me exactly what I'm looking for really. That is the temp drop that I am after and I am sure that I have the flow to keep it at 1.5gpm easily if not more. After my loop was completely built and just had to hook up the lines to the pump/res, I often blow through the tubes just a little (I KNOW I JUST OPENED UP FOR A LOT OF JOKES LOL) to see how restricted it is, this loop has very little restriction, and that is also seen by filling the loop and seeing how fast the coolant is pulled out of the res. The D5 pumps are insane for how power full they are. I have 1 on my loop now, but I have a 2nd with just a X-top on it and I was going to put them both inline together for extra reliability more than just extra flow, but if both helps, I have both.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure I can go off of your 1850rpm testing with my 2000rpm fans and be pretty close in comparison. If I could get that same drop there I'd be happy. Can I ask what your ambient was during that testing? It seems that my scenario changes as ambient goes up, Dts get worst some.
> 
> Thanks Diva too, I appreciate your help always!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom rad in my case is the quad 480mm and that one is 60mm thick, the other 2 are 360mm and those are around 33mm thick. I was using what I have really before buying new rads and shelving these one's again. I hate seeing so much money sitting on a shelf and not being used lol. I may end up buying 2 more quads that are around 60mm thick in the near future, guess I can always sell the other ones I got. Liking the looks of those new EK XTX rads that are coming out soon. Maybe add 2 of those up top and pull the 2 360's??


No probs








The PE360 testing had ambient of around 22°,
while the XXX rad was around 20°.

XXX Rad is the HWLabs SR2 Multi-Port for those who were curious, and it's review is now published.

Kinda on topic with the Stacked / Sandwiched rads discussion....
We've all seen the testing that stacking rads doesn't work, retail rads anyway.
Let's not forget that HWLabs GTX range have for years utilized two very thin cores stacked together with excellent results.


----------



## Wirerat

Anyone know which ddc heatsink housing is better?

ek ddc
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-heatsink-housing-nickel.html

or

bitspower
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJDNCL8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_8SKAvb066Y5NN

Any benifit to one or the other? Or should I go with a different one all together?


----------



## wjturner78

Electroluminescent water lines


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Anyone know which ddc heatsink housing is better?
> 
> ek ddc
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-heatsink-housing-nickel.html
> 
> or
> 
> bitspower
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJDNCL8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_8SKAvb066Y5NN
> 
> Any benifit to one or the other? Or should I go with a different one all together?


Based just on the pictures I'd get the Bitspower; it looks like it has more surface area for cooling.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Anyone know which ddc heatsink housing is better?
> 
> ek ddc
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-heatsink-housing-nickel.html
> 
> or
> 
> bitspower
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJDNCL8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_8SKAvb066Y5NN
> 
> Any benifit to one or the other? Or should I go with a different one all together?


I've seen a number of build videos where they really like the bitspower version.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Based just on the pictures I'd get the Bitspower; it looks like it has more surface area for cooling.


Thanks, I was noticing that and that its two pieces.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I've seen a number of build videos where they really like the bitspower version.


I have seen more build logs using it too. I just wondered if there was a reason or just because of design/looks.

Thanks


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Kinda on topic with the Stacked / Sandwiched rads discussion....
> We've all seen the testing that stacking rads doesn't work, retail rads anyway.
> Let's not forget that HWLabs GTX range have for years utilized two very thin cores stacked together with excellent results.






Right click, image saved!







Thanks for this fast_fate! Got a Nemesis GTX 360 in addition to my other two XSPC RX360v3. Just gotta make a note somewhere to use the optimized config when I install it.
Hey, every degree counts!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Right click, image saved!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for this fast_fate! Got a Nemesis GTX 360 in addition to my other two XSPC RX360v3. Just gotta make a note somewhere to use the optimized config when I install it.
> Hey, every degree counts!


Never knew. Dunno how but both my GTXs are correctly configured.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> No probs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PE360 testing had ambient of around 22°,
> while the XXX rad was around 20°.
> 
> XXX Rad is the HWLabs SR2 Multi-Port for those who were curious, and it's review is now published.
> 
> Kinda on topic with the Stacked / Sandwiched rads discussion....
> We've all seen the testing that stacking rads doesn't work, retail rads anyway.
> Let's not forget that HWLabs GTX range have for years utilized two very thin cores stacked together with excellent results.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting there. Wish there was a little different view explaining that a little more. I get the idea about 95%, but would like to see more on that design. Thanks for posting this tho, every bit of info helps up along the way of SUCCESS









F_F , Do you have a recommendation of to which rads I should go with when I do pony up and get new ones? I will leave my Feser quad 480mm in as that one is 60mm thick and it has always done me good. I really like that one a lot. I have a EK PE 360mm and a Swiftech 360mm up top in my case as of now because I had those already on hand to get going with. Not sure if I will be able to get 2 more quad 480's up top where I have them mounted because of other components mounted where they are and my fan controller, but I definitely can get 2 more 360's to replace them with. Preferably getting 2 more 60mm thick ones if that would be superior to my 30-33mm thick ones now.

I did go pick up 10 more of the SickleFlow fans (2000rpm / 69cfm / 2.94mm/h2o ) that I use and like so I could go push/pull on the rads I have now, and also picked up 2 more Nzxt 10 fan hubs (man I love these things) so I can control all the fans per rad together from 1 channel on my 30w x 6 controller. I might drain the loop and install all those tomorrow, re-fit the tubing, add my 2nd D5 with EK X-top, and then leak test and fill back up and see how it goes. That right there might even do a good enough job to the point that I wont even need to upgrade my rads, other then for looks. I was thinking of the new EK rads that are coming out in the next month or so as those look to be about 60mm thick.

Another thing that I am really thinking about, do to the fact of having so much water cooling parts not in use. I may take my mobo vrm block out of my main loop and give it it's own small loop. I have PLENTY of room on the other side of my Quad down low to put a 240mm rad, almost enough to put a 360mm rad, but rather not stuff it in there (HAHA, JOKES AGAIN) .. Since the Asus Maximus VI Formula has the Hybrid VRM cooling system, I wouldn't mind putting that on it's own loop with only 1 pump because if it did fail or didn't turn on for some reason, then the Hybrid air cooling would just take over and there would be no harm done, just a little warmer temps on the vrm's. I am pushing them a bit because I'm running a 5ghz overclock on my 4790k with EIST and C-states disabled so that it sits at 5ghz the whole time and pushing the vrm's a little more allows me to run less Vcore to the cpu which is a trade I'll take any day of the week. Only need 1.300v for 5ghz stable with my vrm's running on "Extreme setting" vs needing 1.325v if using on "optimized / standard setting" .. I have the EK X-res 100 2.2 pump/res combo now not in use and could use that with my EK PE 240mm rad and have that loop just on the Hybrid VRM block. That would at least take that out of the heating of the main loop, and ALSO the bigger reason for me thinking this and wanting to do that is because that block is the MOST RESTRICTED part of my whole loop. That's really the biggest reason for really wanting to do that vs the heat difference that it would make.

With just my EK Supreme HF cpu block and my EK Titan X full cover block, there is almost no restriction at all in my loop and that would really let the 2x D5's run like crazy and flow like mad







. Would be good for the 3 rads going to push/pull after looking at your chart of flow vs push/pull rpm ranges you posted a couple pages ago.

Appreciate the help and info as always!! Also thanks to you too Diva ( Darlene







) , your input is much appreciated as well









Just a pic to give you an idea of what I'm working with and my layout in my system.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Professional Camera Shots Tom!! (If the Weather holds Up







)




The Cautious One


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Professional Camera Shots Tom!! (If the Weather holds Up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is just the ugliest system I have ever seen, I mean seriously. It is so BORING, PLAIN, JUNK HARDWARE, POS CASE FOR SURE, pile of garbage I've seen on OCN lately. Whoever built that thing must of got hit with the UGLY STICK their whole childhood.

































































































































I really like that thing man! Great job. Love the coolant colors now too.









I am surprised that you didn't go with the D5 pumps vs the DDC pumps tho. Any specific reason? That is a lot of loop there that the D5's would love to assist


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> That is just the ugliest system I have ever seen, I mean seriously. It is so BORING, PLAIN, JUNK HARDWARE, POS CASE FOR SURE, pile of garbage I've seen on OCN lately. Whoever built that thing must of got hit with the UGLY STICK their whole childhood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like that thing man! Great job. Love the coolant colors now too.










You had me going there for a second (No you didn't but I understand







)

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

I was gonna wait a bit to edit it, but I didn't want you to shed any tears









We need to get some OCN gaming going on sometime. Run a OCN mob in GTA V just destroying crap LOL. Would be some fun. Or any games for that matter. Some friendly racing, until I smash you off the road


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I am surprised that you didn't go with the D5 pumps vs the DDC pumps tho. Any specific reason? That is a lot of loop there that the D5's would love to assist


We need to get some OCN gaming going on sometime. Run a OCN mob in GTA V just destroying crap LOL. Would be some fun. Or any games for that matter. Some friendly racing, until I smash you off the road







[/quote]

I wanted the DDC's because... that's what I wanted







The flow is fine. I've never been displeased with the flow of fluid in either loop. They go through the 480s and 240s plus the blocks easily.

Im down to race. Just stay in your lane.







I race legit. I have yet to see a race game that I really want. Mayb Project Cars. Haven't picked it up yet.

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I wanted the DDC's because... that's what I wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flow is fine. I've never been displeased with the flow of fluid in either loop. They go through the 480s and 240s plus the blocks easily.
> 
> Im down to race. Just stay in your lane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I race legit. I have yet to see a race game that I really want. Mayb Project Cars. Haven't picked it up yet.
> 
> TCO


All good, was just curious as there's so much hype with the D5's. If your flow is good, then that's all that matters for sure







. I have the EK 2.2 and that little thing flows like crazy too if you don't restrict the loop, but it's only about 1/3 of the flow of the D5. The 2.2 is 400lph and the D5's are 1200lph on some sites and 1500lph on others lol. Not sure which is the right one, but either are plenty. I do like the acrylic tops tho on the DDC's. Those look sweet with the colored coolant like you got going on there. The Blue Berry looks 10x better than your V8 tomato juice from before









I have Project Cars, but really haven't played that much as it's more like a Sim than a Game. It's real realistic as to how the cars really handle and the physics to the tee. Sometimes that's not really as fun as just some racing games where it's mash the gas and point the nose lol. I have Dirt 3 also which is pretty fun for racing online. Not sure if you have that one? I've been wanting a good racing game for a while and just haven't been able to find the right one yet. Was also thinking of Grid Autosports which is their newest after Grid 2. The graphics look sick in that new one, but not sure how the actual game play is.. I can stay in my lane too, was just bustin balls


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> *All good, was just curious as there's so much hype with the D5's. If your flow is good, then that's all that matters for sur*e
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have the EK 2.2 and that little thing flows like crazy too if you don't restrict the loop, but it's only about 1/3 of the flow of the D5. The 2.2 is 400lph and the D5's are 1200lph on some sites and 1500lph on others lol. Not sure which is the right one, but either are plenty. I do like the acrylic tops tho on the DDC's. Those look sweet with the colored coolant like you got going on there. The Blue Berry looks 10x better than your V8 tomato juice from before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p


You know the mcp 35x (pwm DDC) has more head pressure than a D5 ? Chart here. DDC can be a better choice for a very restrictive loop.

I had to completely decouple my DDc pump to get silence at max rpm though where my D5 is not audible at setting 2- 3. They are both great pumps in the end imo.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> You know the mcp 35x (pwm DDC) has more head pressure than a D5 ? Chart here. DDC can be a better choice for a very restrictive loop.
> 
> I had to completely decouple my DDc pump to get silence at max rpm though where my D5 is not audible at setting 2- 3. They are both great pumps in the end imo.


Yeah, I was just looking at that. But head pressure is measured off of 3/8" barbs vs 1/2" barbs from DDC to D5. Smaller size will allow for more pressure as almost always. The DDC 3.2 has 1000lph flow tho which is very good IMO. I didn't know that it was that high for such a small pump. I thought it was more around the 600lph as the 2.2 has 400lph. Those DDC 3.2 pumps are pretty impressive tho after looking into them some more. I definitely wasn't saying anything bad about them, they are still a Laing pump and that is the best pumps out there in my book.

Are those DDC 3.2's loud tho? The D5's are definitely not loud at all, or at least none of the ones I had were. I usually run my at full blast too. With how my EK X-res 140 D5 vario is mounted in my current case, it doesn't matter if I set it to 2 or 5, it doesn't get any louder at all and doesn't cause anymore vibration either. I think I will be draining the loop tomorrow tho and adding the 2nd one in my main loop, and I'm still really considering taking the mobo block out of the loop and making a small loop for just that because of the restriction of that Hybrid block. It's not really that restrictive, but it's the most restrictive part in my entire loop sooo.... We'll see what happens when I wake up in the morning and have a couple cups of coffee. It's supposed to be kinda crappy weather where I'm at tomorrow so it would be a good day for that. Then I will have a 3 pump, 4 rad water setup in this huge case lol, and 25 total fans


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Yeah, I was just looking at that. But head pressure is measured off of 3/8" barbs vs 1/2" barbs from DDC to D5. Smaller size will allow for more pressure as almost always. The DDC 3.2 has 1000lph flow tho which is very good IMO. I didn't know that it was that high for such a small pump. I thought it was more around the 600lph as the 2.2 has 400lph. Those DDC 3.2 pumps are pretty impressive tho after looking into them some more. I definitely wasn't saying anything bad about them, they are still a Laing pump and that is the best pumps out there in my book.


I didn't think the actual size of fitting/tubing mattered since it all went through G1/4 connection anyway?

Just trying to clarify, I'm always learning.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just remember the rush shipping is something every reselling site does, it's not just a PPCS thing. I have always thought it was BS though since I first encountered it on newegg years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg's rush shipping is a lie though. The time of day you order is all that really seems to matter. I have premier which automatically gives rush shipping and it has made literally no difference vs before in the time of receiving my orders.
Click to expand...

I can attest to this. *Usually*, so long as you get your order in and completed before noon PST, it's out the door an on it's way unless you're buying from an off site vendor. Then you're at the os vendor's mercy. Sadly Newegg hasn't taken advantage of Frozens misfortune like any smart vendor should. So watercooling pickings are extremely slim there.

On the stacked radiator front an HWLabs get body setup. You won't be blowing heat through one into another because the fins cover both runs in single copper strips. Not one run with fins slapper together with another run in the same body. With stacked Rads, no matter the setup (Push/Pull) you cannot avoid blowing hot air into one of them. Yeah you can do it but it really should be avoided.









~Ceadder


----------



## p5ych00n5

Playing around with some internal panels.....


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I can attest to this. *Usually*, so long as you get your order in and completed before noon PST, it's out the door an on it's way unless you're buying from an off site vendor. Then you're at the os vendor's mercy. Sadly Newegg hasn't taken advantage of Frozens misfortune like any smart vendor should. So watercooling pickings are extremely slim there.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Agreed, but newegg is now stocking all of the new Thermaltake DIY water cooling stuff, thats a start at least. Thermaltake's kit actually looks pretty good, thinking about trying it on my alt build I'm doing. And who's to say newegg hasn't tried to get reselling rights to the big boys and just can't get them...


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I didn't think the actual size of fitting/tubing mattered since it all went through G1/4 connection anyway?
> 
> Just trying to clarify, I'm always learning.


Well if they are going through G1/4 fittings then it shouldn't matter, but usually the tests are done with the way the pumps come stock and that's how the spec's are given. EK doesn't really post spec's on the pumps after their tops with their 20% increased performance is added. The spec's they show are the same spec's shown on the stock tops from Laing really, or at least as I can tell. If they were the spec's with EK's tops / res , then the spec's should be a bit better than the stock spec's, especially if they're claiming 20% more performance as they say. So to me, the head pressure and flow rates should be off the stock plastic tops as in 3/8" for the DDC 3.2 and the 1/2" for the D5's. I could be wrong, but I don't see any 20% increase on specs to show them taking that in affect.

I was just looking at my pumps and it really looks like my Phobya DC12-260 is the exact same mounting setup as the EK 2.2 X-res 100 that I have. I'm wondering if I could just un-mount the EK 2.2 and mount the Phobya DC12-260 to the EK X-res 100 and have the extra flow rate? Are the 2 pumps the same in the mounting aspect? Looking at all sides of it, they look to be the same pump maker with just a different sticker as almost every D5 pump there is?? Anyone know this for a fact? Before I decide to separate my loop into 2 and add the EK 2.2 for the mobo block, I'd rather have the 600lph pump on it over the 400lph pump. That's a easy re-mount if so. Let me know what you think, thanks!





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Playing around with some internal panels.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Depending if you live in the states, I can easily make some custom panels at work since I'm the CNC Programmer at my company and can make just about any kind of panel you need with any hole layout for mounting or fitting anything you need. If you need something nice and custom, we can talk if you don't have a way of making something nice on your own. Just offering a little help if you need?? Let me know, or I can at least help you out if I can give you any input that would help you









Ceadderman, what happened? You break your pencil and can't find a sharpener?







LOL .. I'm here if and when you need


----------



## p5ych00n5

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well if they are going through G1/4 fittings then it shouldn't matter, but usually the tests are done with the way the pumps come stock and that's how the spec's are given. EK doesn't really post spec's on the pumps after their tops with their 20% increased performance is added. The spec's they show are the same spec's shown on the stock tops from Laing really, or at least as I can tell. If they were the spec's with EK's tops / res , then the spec's should be a bit better than the stock spec's, especially if they're claiming 20% more performance as they say. So to me, the head pressure and flow rates should be off the stock plastic tops as in 3/8" for the DDC 3.2 and the 1/2" for the D5's. I could be wrong, but I don't see any 20% increase on specs to show them taking that in affect.
> 
> I was just looking at my pumps and it really looks like my Phobya DC12-260 is the exact same mounting setup as the EK 2.2 X-res 100 that I have. I'm wondering if I could just un-mount the EK 2.2 and mount the Phobya DC12-260 to the EK X-res 100 and have the extra flow rate? Are the 2 pumps the same in the mounting aspect? Looking at all sides of it, they look to be the same pump maker with just a different sticker as almost every D5 pump there is?? Anyone know this for a fact? Before I decide to separate my loop into 2 and add the EK 2.2 for the mobo block, I'd rather have the 600lph pump on it over the 400lph pump. That's a easy re-mount if so. Let me know what you think, thanks!





Depending if you live in the states, I can easily make some custom panels at work since I'm the CNC Programmer at my company and can make just about any kind of panel you need with any hole layout for mounting or fitting anything you need. If you need something nice and custom, we can talk if you don't have a way of making something nice on your own. Just offering a little help if you need?? Let me know, or I can at least help you out if I can give you any input that would help you









Ceadderman, what happened? You break your pencil and can't find a sharpener?







LOL .. I'm here if and when you need









That would be awesome and a relief on my lack ov skillz and any advice would be greatly appreciated, but unless you'd ship to Australia


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well if they are going through G1/4 fittings then it shouldn't matter, but usually the tests are done with the way the pumps come stock and that's how the spec's are given. EK doesn't really post spec's on the pumps after their tops with their 20% increased performance is added. The spec's they show are the same spec's shown on the stock tops from Laing really, or at least as I can tell. If they were the spec's with EK's tops / res , then the spec's should be a bit better than the stock spec's, especially if they're claiming 20% more performance as they say. So to me, the head pressure and flow rates should be off the stock plastic tops as in 3/8" for the DDC 3.2 and the 1/2" for the D5's. I could be wrong, but I don't see any 20% increase on specs to show them taking that in affect.
> 
> I was just looking at my pumps and it really looks like my Phobya DC12-260 is the exact same mounting setup as the EK 2.2 X-res 100 that I have. I'm wondering if I could just un-mount the EK 2.2 and mount the Phobya DC12-260 to the EK X-res 100 and have the extra flow rate? Are the 2 pumps the same in the mounting aspect? Looking at all sides of it, they look to be the same pump maker with just a different sticker as almost every D5 pump there is?? Anyone know this for a fact? Before I decide to separate my loop into 2 and add the EK 2.2 for the mobo block, I'd rather have the 600lph pump on it over the 400lph pump. That's a easy re-mount if so. Let me know what you think, thanks!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All pumps are from the same manufacturer and just OEM branded, but I have the same pump/res combo and looking at the EK instructions as well as the images I can find online it looks like the EK pump has an extra "faceplate" that I don't see on the Phobya, so I'm not sure they would be compatible or not. You can always email EK and see what they say. I do know EK markets that pump/res as pretty much a proprietary unit and most documentation says the components are not compatible with anything else, but that could just be a scare tactic.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That would be awesome and a relief on my lack ov skillz and any advice would be greatly appreciated, but unless you'd ship to Australia


Well, not sure what the shipping cost could be to get something over to you there, but if it's not to bad and you are willing to cover that for you pc, then I could easily help you out still. Making a custom panel is pretty easy for me at where I work especially since I'm the CNC programmer and I can make a program in a couple min, and then the machine does most of the work. You just need to be specific on what you want and how you want it. Living that far away, make sure you take all into account and it would be done right the first time lol.

A simple drawing on a piece of paper with some dimensions per your needs will do. Draw a top/front view, and also a side view if needed to explain a little better. Take a CLEAR pic with a phone or something and then PM it to me.

I just want to say to everyone, I'm not out to make a profit in anyway from any of you. I have a passion for custom pc work as most of us in this thread and I only would like to share my ability and work skills to better assist you guys in making something badass for yourself's. I do ask that you would cover the costs of shipping and probably the material costs, but the programming and simple machining I will do as a favor to help you guys out. As long as this doesn't get crazy out of hand







.. I'm also talking about simple panel mods, I'm not going to laser cut you some insane logo's that would take me hours to program lol. Lets keep it pretty simple to a point


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Playing around with some internal panels.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I made panels for my rig and i think it turned out great, i think your on the right track and the crafstmanship looks good


Spoiler: pics

















i did a mini "tut" on how to make panels using common hand tools


Spoiler: panel making



i prefer to use polycarbonate because it is more forgiving doesnt chip and can be cold bent like im about to show you its more flexible though so for anything supporting weight i use acrylic for thicker acrylic bends i use the plastic cutting tool and "score my bend line" then heat it and bend.


these are the main tools i use. i forgot to add my heat gun into here so pretend its in the pic. a square, a sliding square, precision ruler, dremel of course, circular attachment for the dremel, x cut saw for dremel, marker, a plastic cutting bit for the dremel and my home made sheetmetal break.


these bits are to be used at 10- 15k when cutting on any material do a test cut to ensure your not melting the material i only use these for smaller cuts anything bigger use the xcut saw or a carbide blade


x cut attachment

my bending table is just 2 sheets of plywood hinged with common door hinges and a peice of angle iron to clamp the material inplace


circular cutting attachment i download these templates from mnpctech


im using a test peice of poly here to bend a square i have it clamped on one line already


polycarbonate has memory so you have to "over bend" it if i want a 90 i bend about 115


----------



## Archea47

What are the recommended options for DDC dual pump setups?

I see swiftech used to make a white dual pump top and while it looks discontinued, a few resellers have it in stock. I like white or plexi, assuming it isn't going to hurt performance

EK has a pre-fabbd 2xddc kit but it's black. Will go that route if no other options

I like the Xres concept/design

To be mounted in a CaseLabs Mercury S8 in the PSU chamber. I do also have 2U in the front (empty flex bays) but don't like the idea of having to remove a bayres to fill

Edit: to be clear, I'm looking for 2xDDC in a single loop. Redundancy + pushing through 5 blocks and 5 rads


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Interesting there. Wish there was a little different view explaining that a little more. I get the idea about 95%, but would like to see more on that design. Thanks for posting this tho, every bit of info helps up along the way of SUCCESS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> F_F , Do you have a recommendation of to which rads I should go with when I do pony up and get new ones?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I will leave my Feser quad 480mm in as that one is 60mm thick and it has always done me good. I really like that one a lot. I have a EK PE 360mm and a Swiftech 360mm up top in my case as of now because I had those already on hand to get going with. Not sure if I will be able to get 2 more quad 480's up top where I have them mounted because of other components mounted where they are and my fan controller, but I definitely can get 2 more 360's to replace them with. Preferably getting 2 more 60mm thick ones if that would be superior to my 30-33mm thick ones now.
> 
> I did go pick up 10 more of the SickleFlow fans (2000rpm / 69cfm / 2.94mm/h2o ) that I use and like so I could go push/pull on the rads I have now, and also picked up 2 more Nzxt 10 fan hubs (man I love these things) so I can control all the fans per rad together from 1 channel on my 30w x 6 controller. I might drain the loop and install all those tomorrow, re-fit the tubing, add my 2nd D5 with EK X-top, and then leak test and fill back up and see how it goes. That right there might even do a good enough job to the point that I wont even need to upgrade my rads, other then for looks. I was thinking of the new EK rads that are coming out in the next month or so as those look to be about 60mm thick.
> 
> Another thing that I am really thinking about, do to the fact of having so much water cooling parts not in use. I may take my mobo vrm block out of my main loop and give it it's own small loop. I have PLENTY of room on the other side of my Quad down low to put a 240mm rad, almost enough to put a 360mm rad, but rather not stuff it in there (HAHA, JOKES AGAIN) .. Since the Asus Maximus VI Formula has the Hybrid VRM cooling system, I wouldn't mind putting that on it's own loop with only 1 pump because if it did fail or didn't turn on for some reason, then the Hybrid air cooling would just take over and there would be no harm done, just a little warmer temps on the vrm's. I am pushing them a bit because I'm running a 5ghz overclock on my 4790k with EIST and C-states disabled so that it sits at 5ghz the whole time and pushing the vrm's a little more allows me to run less Vcore to the cpu which is a trade I'll take any day of the week. Only need 1.300v for 5ghz stable with my vrm's running on "Extreme setting" vs needing 1.325v if using on "optimized / standard setting" .. I have the EK X-res 100 2.2 pump/res combo now not in use and could use that with my EK PE 240mm rad and have that loop just on the Hybrid VRM block. That would at least take that out of the heating of the main loop, and ALSO the bigger reason for me thinking this and wanting to do that is because that block is the MOST RESTRICTED part of my whole loop. That's really the biggest reason for really wanting to do that vs the heat difference that it would make.
> 
> With just my EK Supreme HF cpu block and my EK Titan X full cover block, there is almost no restriction at all in my loop and that would really let the 2x D5's run like crazy and flow like mad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Would be good for the 3 rads going to push/pull after looking at your chart of flow vs push/pull rpm ranges you posted a couple pages ago.
> 
> Appreciate the help and info as always!! Also thanks to you too Diva ( Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) , your input is much appreciated as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a pic to give you an idea of what I'm working with and my layout in my system.


If I was to make a single radiator recommendation, it may be seen as bias towards one manufacturer over another.
Instead I'ld prefer to keep providing information based on thorough testing which may assist users in making their own decision on what is best for their intended purposes









As you bought the extra fans to run Push/Pull already, I'ld wait and see how that goes for you


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If I was to make a single radiator recommendation, it may be seen as bias towards one manufacturer over another.
> Instead I'ld prefer to keep providing information based on thorough testing which may assist users in making their own decision on what is best for their intended purposes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you bought the extra fans to run Push/Pull already, I'ld wait and see how that goes for you


Fair enough and I fully understand. Let me ask you this then since this is more of a "know what works from your testing" type question. Besides manufactures, and many rads are almost the exact same design really besides very minor details, but what would be your recommendation as to the thickness I should go for and what type of fin layout works best from your testing? The EK PE rads have the crossfin style that has lots per inch and then others have single fin with less per inch. Can you say anything to those reguards as that wouldn't be bias at all?

I'm thinking about going with 60mm rads, but then if I do push/pull that might get pretty cramped up top so I was thinking about 45mm thick. I don't see any reason to buy new ones that are 30-33mm as I already have those and that really wouldn't be a difference IMO.

Thanks


----------



## pc-illiterate

hambone, why dont you look here at the link that puts you here ?

it would be ahelluva lot quicker and easier and would certainly stop the help section in this thread for a minute.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hambone, why dont you look here at the link that puts you here ?
> 
> it would be ahelluva lot quicker and easier and would certainly stop the help section in this thread for a minute.


^^This. Particularly here:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/29/hardware-labs-sr2-360mm-radiator-review/5/

Since the last radiator reviewed is the one with the most update information with all the other rads in the plots. I think the last to go live was the SR2 with multiple ports.

edit- The sr2 is looking sweet. Now I just hope HWlabs include a drain port on it and perhaps recede the ports on one side.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And done...just in time for the deadline. All wired and working,need to black vinyl the HDD tho and generally tidy up and dust out....

Final pics tomorrow!

In the meantime...have some fresh from the bench shots!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And done...just in time for the deadline. All wired and working,need to black vinyl the HDD tho and generally tidy up and dust out....
> 
> Final pics tomorrow!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime...have some fresh from the bench shots!


looks great! Good luck


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hambone, why dont you look here at the link that puts you here ?
> 
> it would be ahelluva lot quicker and easier and would certainly stop the help section in this thread for a minute.


My bad bud. Didn't know it was a issue. I'm not really seeking help as my system is running pretty darn well IMO. I was just simply picking the brains of some people and asking personal preferences over reading a review that doesn't give you that. This is a forum and that's what they are for right? Reviews don't always answer your specific questions and sometimes they are favored to those who supply them free hardware so the info isn't always correct either. Not saying that about all of them.

I appreciate the input from FF, Diva, B neg, and many others greatly and I'm sure others get some questions answered from what I ask and we talk about. It has to do with water cooling and this is the right section for that. I can stop asking questions and talking with others tho if it's a problem. Sorry


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Got a couple shots for the CLub with Dads Nikon D5100.

TCO





More to follow, Just going through the shots I pocketed and seeing whats good (Since I don't know how to use a camera







)


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Got a couple shots for the CLub with Dads Nikon D5100.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More to follow, Just going through the shots I pocketed and seeing whats good (Since I don't know how to use a camera
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


So I take it the idea of a 90 degree fitting severely impacting your flow if used on the pumps outlet is just false? I was reading people saying this on this forum which was making me question my loop layout that I have planned for.

Oh and







at that build, really makes me want to use fluid rather than distilled water.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I take it the idea of a 90 degree fitting severely impacting your flow if used on the pumps outlet is just false? I was reading people saying this on this forum which was making me question my loop layout that I have planned for.
> 
> Oh and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at that build, really makes me want to use fluid rather than distilled water.


I only have 10 90Degree fittings up top, In the bottom I have another 8. So 18 total. I have "heard" over 20 will impact performance a tad, so I tried to keep it under that









Im glad you like it! The Distilled water was a great Idea but I do like some colour to a build.

The Cautious One


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I only have 10 90Degree fittings up top, In the bottom I have another 8. So 18 total. I have "heard" over 20 will impact performance a tad, so I tried to keep it under that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im glad you like it! The Distilled water was a great Idea but I do like some colour to a build.
> 
> The Cautious One


Yeah I'm not so much worried about the 90 degrees as far as restriction throughout my loop, but I was reading a bunch of people specifically stating that a 90 degree coming off the pump outlet is really bad for flow or something like that. Granted most of these posts were from like 2011 and could only really source some test a guy did once.

I really would like to go with fluid and I even bought clear Primochill tubing, but I really just can't be arsed to clean out blocks and rads every 6-12 months. I just want to drain the loop and fill it up with some fresh water twice a year without worrying about it. Purple or Blue Primochill Ice is very tempting though


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I take it the idea of a 90 degree fitting severely impacting your flow if used on the pumps outlet is just false? I was reading people saying this on this forum which was making me question my loop layout that I have planned for.
> 
> Oh and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at that build, really makes me want to use fluid rather than distilled water.


https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/01/05/elbow-impacts-on-pump-performance/

and here

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/

I would be more worry of a 90 degrees on the inlet of the pump top and not because of flow but just to guarantee the pump is well fed with liquid at all times. I remember someone (Martin or B neg not sure) that that situation can be avoided putting a 3x the tube diameter in tube length before the pump inlet and 90 degrees fitting which is something I did in my loop.

Hope it helps


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/01/05/elbow-impacts-on-pump-performance/
> 
> and here
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/
> 
> I would be more worry of a 90 degrees on the inlet of the pump top and not because of flow but just to guarantee the pump is well fed with liquid at all times. I remember someone (Martin or B neg not sure) that that situation can be avoided putting a 3x the tube diameter in tube length before the pump inlet and 90 degrees fitting which is something I did in my my loop.
> 
> Hope it helps


It was Martin.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Got a couple shots for the CLub with Dads Nikon D5100.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More to follow, Just going through the shots I pocketed and seeing whats good (Since I don't know how to use a camera
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Ewww, that's disgusting... I love it haha


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Got a couple shots for the CLub with Dads Nikon D5100.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More to follow, Just going through the shots I pocketed and seeing whats good (Since I don't know how to use a camera
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


What reservoirs are those?


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Got a couple shots for the CLub with Dads Nikon D5100.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More to follow, Just going through the shots I pocketed and seeing whats good (Since I don't know how to use a camera
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )






Nice C! I like this combo more than the green-orange.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> What reservoirs are those?


Those are Bitspower reservoirs.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-250-full-clear-acrylic-version.html


----------



## p5ych00n5

Done and dusted, FINALLY happy with how the loop turned out









*WARNING: Holy wall of Potato Pics Batman*
















All that's left is fashion some internal panels, neatening up the wiring and various cosmetic thangs


----------



## fisher6

Anybody knows if I need an inner tube in an EK tube (25cm) if I'm using this top, I want to use one of the top ports as *inlet*:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html

This is the inner tube I'm referring to: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anybody knows if I need an inner tube in an EK tube (25cm) if I'm using this top, I want to use one of the top ports as *inlet*:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport.html
> 
> This is the inner tube I'm referring to: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-res-x3-series/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm.html


Yes.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> 
> *Nice C! I like this combo more than the green-orange.*
> Those are Bitspower reservoirs.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-250-full-clear-acrylic-version.html


I do too 100% Love it

TCO


----------



## p5ych00n5

*Sigh*. Apparently one of my Ram sticks has died even though it was memtested beforehand due to the layout of my loop for assurances it would function until I could purchase another extender (I'm not paying postage 3 times the cost of a single fitting), so to replace it I have to drain the loop, remove a piece of tubing, replace stick, reinstall tube, fill, leaktest for 12 hours and curse the stick


----------



## electro2u

I dont understand this long term leaktest business. Especially if the loop has already been functional, just set it back up, watch it for 5 min and youre good to go.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I dont understand this long term leaktest business. Especially if the loop has already been functional, just set it back up, watch it for 5 min and youre good to go.


Problem is it will be a brand new piece so I can replace ram etc further down the track, that will be the only test as the rest of the loop is solid.

I've also had memtest going for three passes no errors, but windows and post only recognise half my Ram


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> *Sigh*. Apparently one of my Ram sticks has died even though it was memtested beforehand due to the layout of my loop for assurances it would function until I could purchase another extender (I'm not paying postage 3 times the cost of a single fitting), so to replace it I have to drain the loop, remove a piece of tubing, replace stick, reinstall tube, fill, leaktest for 12 hours and curse the stick


Re seat the ram and air test,no need for extended water testing.Could be a duff seat so re seat before RMA?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Problem is it will be a brand new piece so I can replace ram etc further down the track, that will be the only test as the rest of the loop is solid.
> 
> I've also had memtest going for three passes no errors, but windows and post only recognise half my Ram


Sure you don't just need to blow on it like a nintendo cartridge?









TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Done and dusted, FINALLY happy with how the loop turned out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING: Holy wall of Potato Pics Batman*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is fashion some internal panels, neatening up the wiring and various cosmetic thangs


Bro will you settle on this one now please!!!! haha. You keep finishing then starting over!


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Bro will you settle on this one now please!!!! haha. You keep finishing then starting over!


I'm with you on this one. He even started his before I ordered the parts and tools for my build. Starting to wonder if dude's a Libra or something.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Bro will you settle on this one now please!!!! haha. You keep finishing then starting over!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm with you on this one. He even started his before I ordered the parts and tools for my build. Starting to wonder if dude's a Libra or something.
Click to expand...

........Im a Libran....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ........Im a Libran....












TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ........Im a Libran....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

And I rarely start over,I just build a new one.......


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And I rarely start over,*I just build a new one..*.....


I mean... Why Not
















TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol I think I've torn down the c70 build 3 times now I'm about to tear it down again due to JAC being up and operational


----------



## deehoC

@TheCautiousOne

Just noticed EK shared your build on their FB page. Nice exposure broski and wicked build.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne
> 
> Just noticed EK shared your build on their FB page. Nice exposure broski and wicked build.










The build was so worth it!!! Thanks for the Compliment. I enjoyed learning on this SMA8 so much. It's quite a case









The Cautious One


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And I rarely start over,I just build a new one.......


Oh lawd! Not you too B...


----------



## rlb9682

Just finished updating this and it's pretty pedestrian compared to some of the stuff I've seen here but I'm loving the rigid tubing.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

For those who wanted it!

(Not done yet)


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> For those who wanted it!
> 
> (Not done yet)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So many fans!


----------



## Ceadderman

What the heck are you cooling?!? I suspect that your watt range should be subzero by the 3rd bank of Rads.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Wow, now that is going to extreme. Seriously you better post what temps you get with that.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> For those who wanted it!
> 
> (Not done yet)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




That is totally ridiculous and I LOVE it. Please do keep us updated on this behemoth of a rig


----------



## B NEGATIVE

All those AMS rads and no iwaki=No flow...at all.

And temps? No better than 3 480's

A tragic waste of money in the most vulgar fashion.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All those AMS rads and no iwaki=No flow...at all.
> 
> And temps? No better than 3 480's
> 
> A tragic waste of money in the most vulgar fashion.


Haha!

Well see









I can run the whole thing passive if I wish and turn on the fans if I wish


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> 
> 
> That is totally ridiculous and I LOVE it. Please do keep us updated on this behemoth of a rig


Will do and thanks!


----------



## taowulf

I love the looks of those Airplex rads...but just can't get my head around the price/performance ratio. But they are frikken gorgeous. MMMMMMM sweet copper fins.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Haha!
> 
> Well see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can run the whole thing passive if I wish and turn on the fans if I wish


What did you decide pump wise in the end?


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What did you decide pump wise in the end?


Still thinking, but D5 @ setting 3 is is 2-2.25PSI head pressure so having 5 of those in the loop for the GPU's would give me 1GPM+ flow. Or something else looking at all options.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All those AMS rads and no iwaki=No flow...at all.
> 
> And temps? No better than 3 480's
> 
> A tragic waste of money in the most vulgar fashion.
> 
> 
> 
> Haha!
> 
> Well see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can run the whole thing passive if I wish and turn on the fans if I wish
Click to expand...

You probably could run it passive.....if you could move water round it.....

Using just a pair of pumps for those rads will end badly, you need significantly more pump power. And good taste.....

Edit: 5 pumps?....no.....think Iwaki.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You probably could run it passive.....if you could move water round it.....
> 
> Using just a pair of pumps for those rads will end badly, you need significantly more pump power. And good taste.....


To each his own....... I think it tastes just fine..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You probably could run it passive.....if you could move water round it.....
> 
> Using just a pair of pumps for those rads will end badly, you need significantly more pump power. And good taste.....
> 
> 
> 
> To each his own....... I think it tastes just fine..
Click to expand...

Hey,its your vision,good luck to you.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *All those AMS rads and no iwaki=No flow...at all.*
> 
> *And temps? No better than 3 480's
> *
> A tragic waste of money in the most vulgar fashion.
> 
> 
> 
> Haha!
> 
> Well see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can run the whole thing passive if I wish and turn on the fans if I wish
Click to expand...

B-Neg is on the money again . . .

AMS rads are incredibly restrictive because of the machined passage ways in the end caps . . .

Won't do a bit of good, being able to run them passively, if you can't get any flow thru them.

Better get that big-azz Iwakij ordered . . .

Maybe get 2 just to be sure . . . .









When you double down on overkill, it's really hard to tell the difference from stupidity . . .









Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Still thinking, but D5 @ setting 3 is is 2-2.25PSI head pressure so having 5 of those in the loop for the GPU's would give me 1GPM+ flow. Or something else looking at all options.


Consider the Swiftech Mcp50x pumps. Iwaki is also one suggestion that's already come up here, and for good reason too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Consider the Swiftech Mcp50x pumps*. Iwaki* is also one suggestion that's already come up here, and for good reason too.


Who is this "Iwaki" man you all speak of??

TCO


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Consider the Swiftech Mcp50x pumps. Iwaki is also one suggestion that's already come up here, and for good reason too.


I guess me and you are in the Insane to realm of stupidity level geggeg







hahah

Hum.. afterall isn't LN2 overkill? I'm not the only one here who has a crap ton of rads as well.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> For those who wanted it!
> 
> (Not done yet)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


13 rads in total?


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> 13 rads in total?


Probably will be 11 or 12 need room for psu's etc.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Who is this "Iwaki" man you all speak of??
> 
> TCO


Prepare for astonishment: http://iwakiamerica.myw2m.com

And no, TCO, you don't need it so don't even think about it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> I guess me and you are in the Insane to realm of stupidity level geggeg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahah
> 
> Hum.. afterall isn't LN2 overkill? I'm not the only one here who has a crap ton of rads as well.


Planned insanity sounds better


----------



## aaroc

The iwaki pumps are loud? My normal sized loop will explode if used?







Can be controlled by Aquaero?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Consider the Swiftech Mcp50x pumps. Iwaki is also one suggestion that's already come up here, and for good reason too.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess me and you are in the Insane to realm of stupidity level geggeg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahah
> 
> Hum.. afterall isn't LN2 overkill? I'm not the only one here who has a crap ton of rads as well.
Click to expand...

LN2 is not overkill when records set by guys that use it earn buku dollah...

Apples and oranges...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Consider the Swiftech Mcp50x pumps*. Iwaki* is also one suggestion that's already come up here, and for good reason too.
> 
> 
> 
> Who is this "Iwaki" man you all speak of??
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Iwaki-RD-30-Pump-Review.html


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> For those who wanted it!
> 
> (Not done yet)


Jeeeeesus F Christ man, does it fly?








All of a sudden I feel a little insecure having "only" 3 360 rads and about 15 fans







I feel like looking for that advert I've seen somewhere on the Internets about them pills that ...... make your radiators....... bigger, or more!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> When you double down on overkill, it's really hard to tell the difference from stupidity . . .


----------



## fast_fate

Even with the RD30 at 21v it probably won't make it up to a 1gpm flow rate with all the loop components.

At 21 volt the RD30 going to have around 11 PSI available at 1gpm.

The 480mm AMS each going to gobble up around 0.8 PSI (if not a bit more) let's say 10 PSI
leaving only 1 PSI available for everything else.

Dual D5S (strongs) with a good aftermarket top should offer roughly 14psi, this maybe a better option.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*


All I see is...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Even with the RD30 at 21v it probably won't make it up to a 1gpm flow rate with all the loop components.
> 
> At 21 volt the RD30 going to have around 11 PSI available at 1gpm.
> 
> The 480mm AMS each going to gobble up around 0.8 PSI (if not a bit more) let's say 10 PSI
> leaving only 1 PSI available for everything else.
> 
> Dual D5S (strongs) with a good aftermarket top should offer roughly 14psi, this maybe a better option.


But at the rated 24V, there's another 3psi available at 1 gpm and 1.5 gpm. . . or another way . . with about 11 psi of restriction, enough flow for nearly 3gpm

I've got a pair of D5 Strongs on an EK dual top with a 24V supply, and they'll rattle your res, but not like the RD-30.

Darlene


----------



## wermad

Good lordy...I was hoping this was a shop'd pic. Man......I'm speechless....uhmm....makes wanna go with a sff


----------



## Ceadderman

LOL my 932 *is* an SFF comparatively speaking.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ironsmack

You know, im more worried about that thing toppling over if anything. 6 pedestal + casters = expensive mistake.

But hey, good luck to you.


----------



## wermad

Looks like an sth10 w/ four peds. Probably 120mm top to fit the top rad (







)


----------



## Archea47

Pretty impressed with PPCs right now

Ordered 54 items with two different carriers yesterday, no rush processing. One of the items had sleeving. Both ordered shipped today with the carrier tracking showing both packages as departed

I was worried when I heard FCPU went under (is this true?) but not hurting so far


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup FCPU is *BANG!* dead.


















~Ceadder


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Re seat the ram and air test,no need for extended water testing.Could be a duff seat so re seat before RMA?


Re-Retested the Ram, no problems with it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sure you don't just need to blow on it like a nintendo cartridge?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I did curse it, am I doing it right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Bro will you settle on this one now please!!!! haha. You keep finishing then starting over!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I'm with you on this one. He even started his before I ordered the parts and tools for my build. Starting to wonder if dude's a Libra or something.


This is it's final form apart from moving the tubing that ran from the 2nd 240 to the CPU up towards the top of the case for easier access/swapping out of memory

But in the end I now have bigger fish to fry. Either my MB is throwing a hissy fit or the PCI-E slots are cactus or the cards are dying as I get consistent black screens/artifacts after the Windows and Linux splash screens









Now I could A) teardown and connect each card in either slot to test. B) try to shoehorn my old 4850 into the slot inbetween the cards for testing negating the need for a complete teardown C) teardown and plumb up my secondary PC. OR D) Kill it with fire


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Prepare for astonishment: http://iwakiamerica.myw2m.com
> 
> And no, TCO, you don't need it so don't even think about it


No, I am Not LMao. I appreciate that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like an sth10 w/ four peds. Probably 120mm top to fit the top rad (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Now Wermad, you know what happens when you start thinking... None of this!! Just go with that monstrosity you have already!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I did curse it, am I doing it right?


That is the First Step!! I think the second is Blow on it!







( Im still talking about the ram @IT Diva .. Not what your thinking









TCO


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Re seat the ram and air test,no need for extended water testing.Could be a duff seat so re seat before RMA?
> 
> 
> 
> Re-Retested the Ram, no problems with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sure you don't just need to blow on it like a nintendo cartridge?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I did curse it, am I doing it right?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Bro will you settle on this one now please!!!! haha. You keep finishing then starting over!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I'm with you on this one. He even started his before I ordered the parts and tools for my build. Starting to wonder if dude's a Libra or something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it's final form apart from moving the tubing that ran from the 2nd 240 to the CPU up towards the top of the case for easier access/swapping out of memory
> 
> But in the end I now have bigger fish to fry. Either my MB is throwing a hissy fit or the PCI-E slots are cactus or the cards are dying as I get consistent black screens/artifacts after the Windows and Linux splash screens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now I could A) teardown and connect each card in either slot to test. B) try to shoehorn my old 4850 into the slot inbetween the cards for testing negating the need for a complete teardown C) teardown and plumb up my secondary PC. OR D) Kill it with fire*
Click to expand...

I prefer D. That's the ultimate solution.

Seriously, can't you just connect the monitor to the card you want to test without teardown?


----------



## Ceadderman

Mightn't it be driver or cable related?









I would do cable first and driver second but that's because I am lazy.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Mightn't it be driver or cable related?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would do cable first and driver second but that's *because I am lazy*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just like you never quote people.









TCO (just saying







)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Now Wermad, you know what happens when you start thinking... None of this!! Just go with that monstrosity you have already!!
> TCO


Good gosh man, I'm not in need of that! Hence why I used the wth smiley







. Bad enough I gotta make this tx10 ped build, you adding more fuel. I'll leave the tx10 overload to seross.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Good gosh man, I'm not in need of that! Hence why I used the wth smiley
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . *Bad enough I gotta make this tx10 ped build*, you adding more fuel. I'll leave the tx10 overload to seross.


DON'T EVEN ACT LIKE YOUR NOT ECSTATIC



TCO


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No, I am Not LMao. I appreciate that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now Wermad, you know what happens when you start thinking... None of this!! Just go with that monstrosity you have already!!
> That is the First Step!! I think the second is Blow on it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( Im still talking about the ram @IT Diva .. Not what your thinking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Then the Ram it'd be stuck in there amirite









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I prefer D. That's the ultimate solution.
> 
> Seriously, can't you just connect the monitor to the card you want to test without teardown?


I've connected three separate monitors to each card individually with the second card unplugged, swapped cables and Ouija boards

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Mightn't it be driver or cable related?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would do cable first and driver second but that's because I am lazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yah tried every cable I have, different inputs and each card individually, fresh install of Windows, 2 different Bioses (as one would only recognised half my memory), clutching at straws but I've removed the CMOS battery for the past hour.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> D) Kill it with fire











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Then the Ram it'd be stuck in there amirite


I'm still trying to figure out how to get the Cartridge out









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh I quote people tc0, but only if I have to when I am on my phone.









If I quoted your posts on this thing it would show up a week later an I would be a zombie from lack of sleep due to spoiler tagging everfin.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh I quote people tc0, but only if I have to when I am on my phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I quoted your posts on this thing it would show up a week later an I would be a zombie from lack of sleep due to spoiler tagging everfin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You love me and that's Good









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

There is a difference tween love, respect an tolerance. I love my wife, chilluns, family and system ( no specific order







) and you my friend fall into more of the raspec category.









Could be worse, could be the latter category.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## p5ych00n5

Why does it never end







, three separate working sets of memory throw up the same error, which could also apply to a dying cpu, dying motherboard etc etc.

I'm almost at the point of throwing my perfectly functioning secondary rig (as I'm typing this on it) plumb it in and troubleshoot the primary on air





















:mad

*EDIT* 2 CPU and 3 sets of memory are all throwing up the same error


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Then the Ram it'd be stuck in there amirite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've connected three separate monitors to each card individually with the second card unplugged, swapped cables and Ouija boards
> Yah tried every cable I have, different inputs and each card individually, fresh install of Windows, 2 different Bioses (as one would only recognised half my memory), clutching at straws but I've removed the CMOS battery for the past hour.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Problem is it will be a brand new piece so I can replace ram etc further down the track, that will be the only test as the rest of the loop is solid.
> 
> I've also had memtest going for three passes no errors, but windows and post only recognise half my Ram


This issue occurred on another AMD FX user the other day.

He solved his issue by reinstalling his CPU block and his backplate. As his board somewhat warped with the block tightened.

Note too, if you use google search on the issue like,(16GB total 8GB usable) MS has the solution that you can try here: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/66482-memory-set-maximum-amount-used-windows.html


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> This issue occurred on another AMD FX user the other day.
> 
> He solved his issue by reinstalling his CPU block and his backplate. As his board somewhat warped with the block tightened.
> 
> Note too, if you use google search on the issue like,(16GB total 8GB usable) MS has the solution that you can try here: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/66482-memory-set-maximum-amount-used-windows.html


Cheers for the reply, even with two separate CPU I can't even post let alone get into BIOS or desktop


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Cheers for the reply, even with two separate CPU I can't even post let alone get into BIOS or desktop


What do you mean?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> This issue occurred on another AMD FX user the other day.
> 
> He solved his issue by reinstalling his CPU block and his backplate. As his board somewhat warped with the block tightened.
> 
> Note too, if you use google search on the issue like,(16GB total 8GB usable) MS has the solution that you can try here: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/66482-memory-set-maximum-amount-used-windows.html
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for the reply, even with two separate CPU I can't even post let alone get into BIOS or desktop
Click to expand...

Dead psu or a dead board.....


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dead psu or a dead board.....


or cpu backplate actually touching board back side. had this in my environment with ek supreme waterblock and had to use widder o-rings under backplate


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dead psu or a dead board.....


Im thinking its more the board, unfortunately I do not have a PSU tester to confirm

*EDIT* Now definitely looking like the board itself, hooked up the PSU to my secondary PC and it works fine


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> or cpu backplate actually touching board back side. had this in my environment with ek supreme waterblock and had to use widder o-rings under backplate


Maybe, but this is how my backplate looks


----------



## andl




----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*


Didn't you use the large rubber piece between the backplate and the MoBo ?


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Didn't you use the large rubber piece between the backplate and the MoBo ?


i used it. but spacers (ekwb manual says to use 1mm spacers) was to small and backplate touched metal parts of my mobo. lucky me, i found it before i turn it on, and changet spacers to 1.5mm


----------



## Archea47

Read plenty of times in the AMD forums that tightening your CPU cooler down too far can yield unrecognized DIMMs. Never seen it myself though

Maybe with your extra spacer thickness the cooler is putting more force on the socket if you tightened all the way? A long shot but it sounds like that's where you are at this point


----------



## mus1mus

QFT ^

Here's a very fresh example:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/8350_50#post_23977742


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> There is a difference tween love, respect an tolerance. I love my wife, chilluns, family and system ( no specific order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and you my friend fall into more of the respect category.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Could be worse, could be the latter category*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder










Well thanks for that Mate!

And Good Morning OCN WaterCooling Club!! Lets get this party started!

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not bad, need to get the CPU-Z of mine @ 4.5


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Not bad, need to get the CPU-Z of mine @ 4.5


Well I already have, I just can't seem to run a stress test at that speed with my cards in SLI, The Driver Crashes.

What strap are you running (and to keep relevant to the thread) temps?

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd have to post it once I get home, so far the bitspower setup has allowed me to run full blast and maxing at 60-65c (also dual 360'shas helped)







and right now I'm Linux stable so not sure what would happen in windows once I run it.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> For those who wanted it!
> 
> (Not done yet)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## emsj86

Huh any reason why with that many rads and money you didn't go phase change. Not knocking your choice just asking. Also for those who have a phase change pc. Is it basically a refrigeration style compressor with glycol lines to prevent freeze ups or just straight compressor


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And done,final pics until the weather picks up.


----------



## taowulf

I went and looked at BNegs pics even though I have seen them already in his build log...they are just *THAT GOOD*.

My heart might not be able to survive pics taken in full daylight.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And done,final pics until the weather picks up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [


I love this build B. Best one I've seen in this case so far. Is it a personal or a client build, and is there a build log for it? Would love to check out the specs.


----------



## electro2u

I think Bneg can handle a little criticism. The coloring of the paint around the sidepanel EK logo doesnt seem to match the interior and it just didnt turn out like what i expected.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I think Bneg can handle a little criticism. The coloring of the paint around the sidepanel EK logo doesnt seem to match the interior and it just didnt turn out like what i expected.


Yeah,different base coats with a transparent overcoat will change the end colour,the inside has a silver marble effect which 'lifts' the colour up the scale.

Shame you are not into it but thats all good,my builds tends to polarize opinion with aesthetic choices, the GPU and pump covers jar the most for me,I may pull them and paint them gunmetal with gunmetal badges instead of the red/yellow.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I think Bneg can handle a little criticism. The coloring of the paint around the sidepanel EK logo doesnt seem to match the interior and it just didnt turn out like what i expected.


That's what I thought when I first saw it too, but it kinda grew on me.

Definitely my favorite Vulture mod.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> I love this build B. Best one I've seen in this case so far. Is it a personal or a client build, and is there a build log for it? Would love to check out the specs.


Its a mod for the EK-Vulture mod off contest, here's the log and the contest thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummmmm, mebbe cause it's sposed to hilight the brand name.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Nah, I'm into it--just would have liked the color of the logo highlight to be brighter or something because at the edges where the green hits the black, it turns it brownish to my eye? Is that EK's standard color? I think I might have wanted to match the orange that all the EK blocks come in. Maybe a wider halo?

Then the colors that pop at a glance on the interior are primarily the red and the copper tubing, which is largely pushed to the extreme edges (which I love).

If I had been zookeeper I would have tried the orange and white thing maybe. It's just a fantasy to imagine having that kind of gig.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Nah, I'm into it--just would have liked the color of the logo highlight to be brighter or something because at the edges where the green hits the black, it turns it brownish to my eye? Is that EK's standard color? I think I might have wanted to match the orange that all the EK blocks come in. Maybe a wider halo?
> 
> Then the colors that pop at a glance on the interior are primarily the red and the copper tubing, which is largely pushed to the extreme edges (which I love).
> 
> If I had been zookeeper I would have tried the orange and white thing maybe. It's just a fantasy to imagine having that kind of gig.


You need to calibrate your monitor.

Green? There is no green in the whole build electro.

Its gold to orange to red......


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need to calibrate your monitor.
> 
> Green? There is no green in the whole build electro.
> 
> Its gold to orange to red......


Well the monitor is calibrated but maybe I calibrated it wrong







I have a hard time describing color anyway. I certainly see golds and oranges and reds... but I also see an effect of green and brown when they all blend. It may be that I have some weird form of color blindness.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need to calibrate your monitor.
> 
> Green? There is no green in the whole build electro.
> 
> Its gold to orange to red......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well the monitor is calibrated but maybe I calibrated it wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a hard time describing color anyway. I certainly see golds and oranges and reds... but I also see an effect of green and brown when they all blend. It may be that I have some weird form of color blindness.
Click to expand...

Or Acid in the coffee.....


----------



## MadHatter5045

@B NEGATIVE Khorne is pleased









Seriously if you don't win I call fraud.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or Acid in the coffee.....


20 years ago... Maybe your mod has caused a flashback!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE Khorne is pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously if you don't win I call fraud.


There is some *seriously* stiff competition in there. If B don't win it weren't due to fraud.









~Ceadder


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> There is some *seriously* stiff competition in there. If B don't win it weren't due to fraud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes there are some great modders and beautiful builds but not like this

It could be the 40k fan in me being a little biased but I doubt it


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno, I am not plotting against B. Love his builds. But did you see snefs build? There are a few others that will give B a run fer the monies as well.

Good luck to all. Can't wait to compare them all on the same page. Cuz that's where I make my choice.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I think Bneg can handle a little criticism. The coloring of the paint around the sidepanel EK logo doesnt seem to match the interior and it just didnt turn out like what i expected.


Same here, kinda of just doesn't gel with the vibe the rest gives.

Maybe a light squirt of gold-copper paint w/ flake highlights to give that hint of what the pipe work is. And highlights the brand with a bit of sparkle. Would stick out out less obvious then the yellow stuff while still noticeable and significant.

My


----------



## SteezyTN

So im just curious. I ordered some Primochill revolver fittings, the one with the aluminum covers. I ordered the anodized red because I thought it would've looked good with my black and red themed build. However, ive always wanted to use red pastel coolant, and then I realized it would look funny with anodized red fittings (which is why I used Ice White instead). When I order my Case Labs SMA8 case, I plan on it to look perfect (to my building abilities). *Is it possible to paint the aluminum covers, so they wont be red anymore?* Not to where they look like it was a crappy paint job, but overall look amazing and like they originally came in that color. If not, ill just buy the caps separately from Primochill.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So im just curious. I ordered some Primochill revolver fittings, the one with the aluminum covers. I ordered the anodized red because I thought it would've looked good with my black and red themed build. However, ive always wanted to use red pastel coolant, and then I realized it would look funny with anodized red fittings (which is why I used Ice White instead). When I order my Case Labs SMA8 case, I plan on it to look perfect (to my building abilities). *Is it possible to paint the aluminum covers, so they wont be red anymore?* Not to where they look like it was a crappy paint job, but overall look amazing and like they originally came in that color. If not, ill just buy the caps separately from Primochill.


They can be painted. Not sure exactly what kind would be best specially if there bring. Handled a lot. They do sell just the caps (20usd for 10 pack) in various Colors. Like black, white, blue etc. I forget who said or showed it but painting the fittings white before painting the main cor you want will give it the color you want if that makes sense. For example painting something blue over black will be darker blue than blue over white.


----------



## Cyclops

4670K at 4.6 GHz with a pair of R9 290s at 1150/6000 MHz. All inside a Node 804. 4 x 240 rads.


----------



## wermad

Nice bends







. Slight wrinkle in the tubes???


----------



## Cyclops

Yeah, honestly I did all of that overnight so got impatient and ran out of tubes. I guess we'll call those beauty marks.


----------



## wermad

Battle scars


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Battle scars


Or stretchmarks.


----------



## wermad

If it floats *your* boat


----------



## jon666

Aw piss. Cpu block cracked alnog one of the scews holding down copper plate.popped it off to look at it. Debating on whether or not to use a sealant of some sort.This might be my first and last time using an acrylic block.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Aw piss. Cpu block cracked alnog one of the scews holding down copper plate.popped it off to look at it. *Debating on whether or not to use a sealant of some sort.*This might be my first and last time using an acrylic block.


No. And don't be disheartened. Just see if Ek could send another.









TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So im just curious. I ordered some Primochill revolver fittings, the one with the aluminum covers. I ordered the anodized red because I thought it would've looked good with my black and red themed build. However, ive always wanted to use red pastel coolant, and then I realized it would look funny with anodized red fittings (which is why I used Ice White instead). When I order my Case Labs SMA8 case, I plan on it to look perfect (to my building abilities). *Is it possible to paint the aluminum covers, so they wont be red anymore?* Not to where they look like it was a crappy paint job, but overall look amazing and like they originally came in that color. If not, ill just buy the caps separately from Primochill.


Once you have the fittings, it's like $20 for a set of 10 replacement caps, so you just change the caps out to whatever color you want and they are new original.


----------



## jon666

It is a swiftech block. Hopefully pc survived, ozone is not a good smell. powered down for the weekend, came back and no display. Hopefully only cmos battery went.best worst case is that I will be replacing my 7870s.


----------



## Hambone07si

Hey hey. So I've been a little busy building a few new pc's for a couple people around me and made some extra cash and have decided to just spend some on some new rads. After looking at many reviews and seeing SO MANY numbers, I have made up my mind on what I'd like to get for a couple reasons. I'd like to hear if anyone has anything to say before I pull the trigger and order them up in a little bit so I have them Thursday.

Mostly I am choosing these ones because it's just what I have come to like and pretty much want. I've seen so many of you guys with them or a few of them and haven't heard 1 bad thing yet. I'm choosing to go with the Alphacool rads tho. I've had many rads of different sizes and thicknesses and out of all of them I really have liked my Feser quad 480 60mm thick the most and has always worked like a champ. I just like the thicker rads more. The EK PE rads I have work pretty dame good too, but they are a little bit louder with the fin design, but I do like those a lot. My Feser has more of a fin layout just like the Alphacools do and should be pretty quiet for the most part. I have 10ft of new tube to redo as I need when I put them in.

2nd thing is the 6 ports that allow for all kinds of options. I wouldn't replace my Feser on the bottom of my X9, but I would like a drain at the lowest point so it's coming out







lol. It's going to be replaced by the Alphacool Monsta 480 86mm thick rad. Then I can run my in and out per my needs and also run a drain of one of the bottom ports for real easy draining.

For up top replacing my EK PE 360 and my Swiftech 360 (just don't like that they aren't matching rads, but they work great and that's what I had laying around) , I'm going to go with 2 of the Alphacool XT45 360's that also have 6 ports. This will allow me to use the ones I need, and also let me have a bleeder at the very top of my loop for when I need to drain, or get rid of air filling. If I open one of the top ports on one, or even both of those and then crack open the drain from the bottom Monsta's bottom port, that should drain like crazy and real fast. It will be better than any drain I've had so far so that's good for me.

I also like that those are "Full Copper" rads as they say. Maybe that will shave another 1c too







.. It's too bad that I can't do the UT60's tho up top or I would, or even the Monsta's. I'd buy 3 of those in a heartbeat if they would fit, but they wont with the push pull. From what I have now, to going to those 3 new rads, I should be able to drop my Dt's a couple degrees or so especially with push/pull. I'm also thinking of ordering 10 of the Vadar 120mm fans, but not sure on those yet personally. Heard many good things and everyone seems to like them, but I do like my Sickleflows and they work great for me so I'll try those first, but I am going to order 1 Vadar just to play with lol.

What do you guys think about going with those 3 new rads? I'm pretty set on them now, but figured I'd ask before hitting the BUY button


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Hi everybody!

I was just wondering... does anyone have any issues with nickel plated EK blocks corroding? My EK-FC R9-280X DCII - Nickel has severe corrosion after a mere 5-6 months of usage. I was wondering if any one has any experience contacting EKWB support for such matters, and what help did they offer. Of course, the best case would be if someone could point me in the right direction of the ekwb rep on these forums









(Also, an ancillary worry that I have right now is whether the other blocks might be affected...)





I've actually gone out of my way to make sure that the blocks don't mix metals, and my setup entirely consists for EKWB stuff save for the tubing and biocide. My setup is as follows:

Rads:
EK-CoolStream WE 180
EK-CoolStream PE 120

Blocks:
EK-FC R9-280X DCII - Nickel
EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel

Fittings:
EK-CSQ Fitting 10/16mm G1/4 - Black
EK CSQ G1/4 Thread 90° Fitting Adapter - Black
EK CSQ G1/4 Thread 45° Fitting Adapter - Black

Pump:
EK DDC X-RES Top 100 w/ 3.2 PWM Pump

Tubing and biocide:
Mayhems Biocide Extreme
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD

Thanks!!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quick update. It wasy board that died, whipped up a quick airtest bench and she's kaput


----------



## hidethecookies

This is the first computer i ever built! I bought the 290 with the kraken already attached but the pump on the h55 burnt out. That's when i thought i was upgrading by going with a h75 turns out its the same just with 2 fans







So then I took the rad from the h55 and put it in series with the h75 rad and pump. I'm surprised I fit it all in a $40 case. I'm thinking of getting the Corsair Air 540 Carbide or the NZXT 440 as a replacement case so I can do a custom loop.




Oh I did put the window in the side panel with a dremel and put a CM Sickleflow in for good measure


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Hi everybody!
> 
> I was just wondering... does anyone have any issues with nickel plated EK blocks corroding? My EK-FC R9-280X DCII - Nickel has severe corrosion after a mere 5-6 months of usage. I was wondering if any one has any experience contacting EKWB support for such matters, and what help did they offer. Of course, the best case would be if someone could point me in the right direction of the ekwb rep on these forums
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Also, an ancillary worry that I have right now is whether the other blocks might be affected...)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've actually gone out of my way to make sure that the blocks don't mix metals, and my setup entirely consists for EKWB stuff save for the tubing and biocide.


Can you open the blocks up and try cleaning it? I can't tell if it's corrosion or gunk buildup. Seems like I can see the nickel behind whatever it is in a few spots. Could be plasticizer issue.

I have one EK block where a spot of nickel has eroded a bit and it doesn't look like that. It's just a different color.


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Hmm ideally I would like to open it up to clean but I'm awaiting a response from EK support first. I'm not sure if plasticizer is that colour? Maybe the photo was taken in bad lighting - the colour is very similar to rust.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Can you open the blocks up and try cleaning it? I can't tell if it's corrosion or gunk buildup. Seems like I can see the nickel behind whatever it is in a few spots. Could be plasticizer issue.
> 
> I have one EK block where a spot of nickel has eroded a bit and it doesn't look like that. It's just a different color.


That looks like gunk to me as well. I have a nickel block from EK for my 980 and when I installed it I was dumb and used my mouth to force some of the water out of the loop. I didn't have a drain at the time. Well I had been drinking some bottled water with some kind of drink mix in it that had red dye. It made it look very similar to your block. It had an orange/copper tint and I was freaking out that it was the nickel coming off. I would take it apart and try cleaning it. Use a clean toothbrush or the like and use boiling distilled water. You can submerge the actually block in that but don't put the acrylic in that. Just clean it with cool or room temperature distilled. You can also try using a diluted vinegar/water solution as well but I would try just the water first.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Hi everybody!
> 
> I was just wondering... does anyone have any issues with nickel plated EK blocks corroding? My EK-FC R9-280X DCII - Nickel has severe corrosion after a mere 5-6 months of usage. I was wondering if any one has any experience contacting EKWB support for such matters, and what help did they offer. Of course, the best case would be if someone could point me in the right direction of the ekwb rep on these forums
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Also, an ancillary worry that I have right now is whether the other blocks might be affected...)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've actually gone out of my way to make sure that the blocks don't mix metals, and my setup entirely consists for EKWB stuff save for the tubing and biocide.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you open the blocks up and try cleaning it? I can't tell if it's corrosion or gunk buildup. Seems like I can see the nickel behind whatever it is in a few spots. Could be plasticizer issue.
> 
> I have one EK block where a spot of nickel has eroded a bit and it doesn't look like that. It's just a different color.
Click to expand...

I wud take em apart an try cleaning them as well an drop the biocide. You really don't need it if your running it 24/7. If you aren't, but are running it daily you shouldn't have issues with algae and if your metals are all the same other than your radiator, biocide won't do anything for you. I run straight distilled and no killcoil, but my fittings are Monsoon so they come silver out of the box.









~Ceadder


----------



## 6mmruledlines

Would taking them apart void the warranty though?


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Would taking them apart void the warranty though?


No it doesn't. I had a similar issue few pages back. Thought it was corrosion so I opened my block up and give it a wipe was just left over residue from the EK Red Pastel Coolant.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Hi everybody!
> 
> I was just wondering... does anyone have any issues with nickel plated EK blocks corroding? My EK-FC R9-280X DCII - Nickel has severe corrosion after a mere 5-6 months of usage. I was wondering if any one has any experience contacting EKWB support for such matters, and what help did they offer. Of course, the best case would be if someone could point me in the right direction of the ekwb rep on these forums
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Also, an ancillary worry that I have right now is whether the other blocks might be affected...)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've actually gone out of my way to make sure that the blocks don't mix metals, and my setup entirely consists for EKWB stuff save for the tubing and biocide. My setup is as follows:
> 
> Rads:
> EK-CoolStream WE 180
> EK-CoolStream PE 120
> 
> Blocks:
> EK-FC R9-280X DCII - Nickel
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
> 
> Fittings:
> EK-CSQ Fitting 10/16mm G1/4 - Black
> EK CSQ G1/4 Thread 90° Fitting Adapter - Black
> EK CSQ G1/4 Thread 45° Fitting Adapter - Black
> 
> Pump:
> EK DDC X-RES Top 100 w/ 3.2 PWM Pump
> 
> Tubing and biocide:
> Mayhems Biocide Extreme
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD
> 
> Thanks!!


Looks like normal stagnant zone corrosion that occurs when you don't use a corrosion inhibitor. We see it over and over and yet there are still 'experts' that will try to convince you that water + Kill Coil or water + copper sulphate is all you need.

If you are the original purchaser of the blocks and they are under 2 years old EK will replace them. They will tell you to open them and give them a clean first though to properly assess them. A lot of that copper sulphate staining should be removable but there may still be damage.
The EK reps here are just for advice and info ... for things like this go straight to EK support and start a ticket. The reps aren't involved in that.


----------



## pc-illiterate

@hidethecookies avoid the h440. it isnt a water cooling case as has been pointed out and shown a couple weeks ago. air cooling, youre fine, its a nice case. water cooling, you lose, no airflow for the rads.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And done,final pics until the weather picks up.


Very beautiful BNeg. I like everything you've done, the parallel cooling, the res before the rad, the copper, the colours.
You got my vote to win this mod compatition.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now to finish the HexGear case


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6mmruledlines*
> 
> Would taking them apart void the warranty though?


It will void their leak free warranty but your main warranty won't be voided. Its a strange distinction but they basically have a warranty/guarantee at EK that the blocks won't leak fresh out of the box. Once you open them up and break the warranty sticker that guarantee no longer applies, but if the block is defective in some way you warranty would still cover that.

Like the others have said I am not quite sure that is corrosion just cause of the color. I have corroded nickle EK block and the corrosion is a dark grey color where yours looks red. I say try to clean it first.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Now to finish the HexGear case


Work resumes this weekend,Hans and Nate have been really supportive and had no problem me breaking off to finish the EK build.


----------



## p5ych00n5

I'm cursed this past fortnight, after a keyboard, 2 display port adapters and a Mobo dying my GPU are not recognised in 3 different versions of Windows


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I'm cursed this past fortnight, after a keyboard, 2 display port adapters and a Mobo dying my GPU are not recognised in 3 different versions of Windows










Do you need a MOnster Sir? You will be working hard for a while.

TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Where is everyone







HELLO!!! (ECHO ECHO.. echo..... echo )

Is everyone Happy today? Goodness.

TCO


----------



## electro2u

*crickets*


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Where is everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HELLO!!! (ECHO ECHO.. echo..... echo )
> 
> Is everyone Happy today? Goodness.
> 
> TCO


Reporting active..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Too busy setting about Thermalfakes reputation with baseball bat..........


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Too busy setting about Thermalfakes reputation with baseball bat..........


Yes everyone is over in the CL thread,lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> *crickets*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Reporting active..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Too busy setting about Thermalfakes reputation with baseball bat..........


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Yes everyone is over in the CL thread,lol.


I was starting to worry about you Mates. Geez... Thanks for the replies. I had to wipe a couple tears away.

TCO


----------



## jon666

I haven't sent an email off to swiftech yet, but what is the best cpu block for a socket 1155 I can get? Unsure if rest of system survived, but I just bought a second vehicle so the cheaper the better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Honestly? EK Supremacy Evo. Oh you referring to Swiftech?









~Ceadder


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I haven't sent an email off to swiftech yet, but what is the best cpu block for a socket 1155 I can get? Unsure if rest of system survived, but I just bought a second vehicle so the cheaper the better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly? EK Supremacy Evo. Oh you referring to Swiftech?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


^ this. Swiftech's Apogee blocks suck. I chose to take money out of my budget and invest in a Supremacy Evo even though I already had an Apogee XL laying around because of how badly they actually perform especially on LGA-2011.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you need a MOnster Sir? You will be working hard for a while.
> 
> TCO


I think I have a very serious Gremlin infestation, the old board the one that died has now suddenly decided to POST


----------



## p5ych00n5

New/Old board in, Windows now recognises the 7970, but the primary has died







. which means teardown of the loop, pull out the card, rejig and replumb the loop. Just as I was finally satisfied with the layout


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So the screws that came with my magicool radiators are not compatible with the modular style mounting system on the Phanteks Enthoo Pro. The tops simply fall through the holes. I have a number of hex style radiator screws from previous radiators/AIOs, but the ones included with the Magicool were a fair bit longer than the ones I have. What kind of screw do I need to use?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You need washers...not screws.


----------



## p5ych00n5

So it seems a dead gpu was 90% the root cause of both my boards being mouthbreathers







. But my secondary gpu is starting to artifact









So I'm now back on my original board and hoping the card holds out until I can get the chance to upgrade, if not I'll have an expensive paperweight sitting in the corner


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> ^ this. Swiftech's Apogee blocks suck. I chose to take money out of my budget and invest in a Supremacy Evo even though I already had an Apogee XL laying around because of how badly they actually perform especially on LGA-2011.


PM me if you need assistance with this.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/VultureVoting

Vulture comp voting is up for those wanting to get involved.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/VultureVoting
> 
> Vulture comp voting is up for those wanting to get involved.


Quote:


> hand painted by B-Negative










This is news to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/VultureVoting
> 
> Vulture comp voting is up for those wanting to get involved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> hand painted by B-Negative
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is news to me.
Click to expand...

People seem to think its all take and no give from companies...and for most this is true. A good modder that is lucky enough to get sponsored must realize its a 2 way street,I dont mind helping EK as they have given me everything I have asked for to get a job done with no fuss or drama.

If you were around a few years a go,You would of seen me hanging off EK's neck like an angry dog,now im proud to say I work with them. I have seen the way they invest in their products and the community as a whole and it pleases me.


----------



## taowulf

Voting for the winner was one of the most difficult choices I had to make in quite a while. Ran across the link for voting in Snef's thread.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/VultureVoting
> 
> Vulture comp voting is up for those wanting to get involved.


OMG it's too hard!! Which to choose...

EDIT: Okay I can breathe again. All I can say is I am TRULY inspired!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> OMG it's too hard!! Which to choose...
> 
> EDIT: Okay I can breathe again. All I can say is I am TRULY inspired!


If possible take the time to go through the build logs. There are a lot of things that those pics don't cover.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> OMG it's too hard!! Which to choose...










for everyone involved in the comp. I look at the quality of all rigs and......



it's a VERY AWESOME lineup and hard to choose


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If possible take the time to go through the build logs. There are a lot of things that those pics don't cover.


Yes I've been watching most of them as its progressed. The couple that I didn't get a chance to go through didn't visually grab me anyway. I feel like I made a very good vote based on all I've seen the last couple months, that's why this whole contest really has inspired me.


----------



## Nornam

Although all the builds for the EK competition are pretty damn awesome & some really great work right there from all concerned, In the end there was only one that I just had to vote for, There's certainly no Negativity about all his builds as far as I'm concerned







.

His modding skills have gone from strength to strength from when I first met him about three or four years ago at a comp show in Telford, Fantastic painting skills & great Ideas about layouts e.t.c....









Nam..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Although all the builds for the EK competition are pretty damn awesome & some really great work right there from all concerned, In the end there was only one that I just had to vote for, There's certainly no Negativity about all his builds as far as I'm concerned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> His modding skills have gone from strength to strength from when I first met him about three or four years ago at a comp show in Telford, Fantastic painting skills & great Ideas about layouts e.t.c....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam..


I'm in agreement on this one. There are some amazing entries, but one stands out above the others. That's my personal opinion.


----------



## electro2u

After looking through all the buildlogs I could not get passed BNeg's copper tubing. It's just too sexy.

I don't know how Altex got in on it but... ugh hate that store. Microcenter please come to San Antonio.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Although all the builds for the EK competition are pretty damn awesome & some really great work right there from all concerned, In the end there was only one that I just had to vote for, There's certainly no Negativity about all his builds as far as I'm concerned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> His modding skills have gone from strength to strength from when I first met him about three or four years ago at a comp show in Telford, Fantastic painting skills & great Ideas about layouts e.t.c....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Although all the builds for the EK competition are pretty damn awesome & some really great work right there from all concerned, In the end there was only one that I just had to vote for, There's certainly no Negativity about all his builds as far as I'm concerned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> His modding skills have gone from strength to strength from when I first met him about three or four years ago at a comp show in Telford, Fantastic painting skills & great Ideas about layouts e.t.c....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam..
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in agreement on this one. There are some amazing entries, but one stands out above the others. That's my personal opinion.
Click to expand...











Nam,you salty dog! Are you well? How are things with you?


----------



## Hambone07si

Got my new rads today









2x Alphacool XT45 360mm and 1x Alphacool Monsta 480mm. Ordered 10x EK Vardar F4 2200rpm High Performance fans to hook up to my fan controller so I can run them at whatever rpm I want mostly, and crank them up to 2200rpm if needed. Going to drain the loop in a few min and get the new rads installed today. Gonna be a fun night


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah. And it was really hard for me not to vote for anything named Lady Sif too.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam,you salty dog! Are you well? How are things with you?


Ello Neg me old mucker







... I'm pissed off at the moment mate as I'm all shrunched up & hunched over as this damn tumour in my neck is really giving me gip & because it's so close to my spinal cord they can't zap it with radiotherapy so I'm on these trial cancer pills to see if they can do anything, but they have some awful side effects as did the Chemo ..









Got loads to build but just can't do anything at the moment as the pain gets so bad in my neck, shoulder & left arm... Tis a bugger I tell you.... A Real bugger... Got loads of nice new shinnies to put into two builds just sat there looking at me waiting to go into builds... But!!!!... Hey.... Apart from that I'm fine cheers & pretty much over my broken leg incidence I had back a few months ago







...

Gonna try to take some nice pics with my new Camera & lenses of the nice gear that is going into the builds so have much to look forward to when this neck thing eases a wee bit mate. Keep fighting is the only way & having some things to look forward to can only help on that score....... Well that's how I see it anyway hehe.









Take care Neg & hope you do the biz in the compo Mate....... Will be keeping my fingers crossed for you dude.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/VultureVoting
> 
> Vulture comp voting is up for those wanting to get involved.


Wow, some nice builds, but dang Anvil, GoldWings, and HereTek look amazing. Can't make up my mind at the moment.

Dang it, I keep going back to that copper tubing. It is so smexy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

We should come down and see you Nam,I have not spoken to you in so long......


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/VultureVoting
> 
> Vulture comp voting is up for those wanting to get involved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, some nice builds, but dang Anvil, GoldWings, and HereTek look amazing. Can't make up my mind at the moment.
> 
> Dang it, I keep going back to that copper tubing. It is so smexy.
Click to expand...

They are all first rate builds. I was expecting a bigger turnout. 8 of 50 minus 3(prize cases) is a bit lax. Hopefully EK has more than the 3 they had set aside for the competition, for LAN event giveaways around the globe. I know derrickwm got one an modded it, but since he reps for EK it's understandable that he didn't take part.










So 12 out of 50?...







Okay. Still voted!









~Ceadder


----------



## raist679

I'm sorry if this might not be the proper place to pose this question. I'm working on my first build with rigid tubing. I impulsively bought Monsoon Freecenter chrome fittings. However it seems there are some horror stories out there involving them. Then I bought some of their economy chrome fittings. Since then I've Found posts with some negative feedback on those as well. I would like chrome fittings or something close from an aesthetic standpoint. Should I even use either of these fittings or just look at something else? I appreciate any advice.


----------



## wjturner78




----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks excellent!


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We should come down and see you Nam,I have not spoken to you in so long......


That would be sweet mate, would be good to see you & skully again for sure.. But it's a long way to come just for a chat really mate







... But thanks all the same really appreciate the thought







...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We should come down and see you Nam,I have not spoken to you in so long......
> 
> 
> 
> That would be sweet mate, would be good to see you & skully again for sure.. But it's a long way to come just for a chat really mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... But thanks all the same really appreciate the thought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
Click to expand...

Its never too far for you fella,you know that. I will speak to Skully and let you know?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> That looks excellent!


Thank you kind sir, its still a wip but will be done soon as i plan on taking it to quakecon the log is here. the coolest part of this pic isnt even shown yet, these water lines have electroluminecent tape underneath them as does the ram and will look like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/sponsored-the-phoenix-rog-rve-5960x-40-tb-1080mm-rad-space-enthoo-primo


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its never too far for you fella,you know that. I will speak to Skully and let you know?


OK Cheers me old mucker







...


----------



## wjturner78

@B NEGATIVE the competition was feirce but i had to give my vote to you, great job that was an "all-star build off" everyone in that comp is a talent of the next level.... congrats


----------



## PinzaC55

Nice. Reminds me of an H R Giger painting.


----------



## toggLesss

upgrading


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Nice. Reminds me of an H R Giger painting.


what does.....


----------



## RyanR

Hello,

I am considering a custom loop in my system and thought I would look for some educated advice here.

I want to keep my system mATX and i currently have a corsair 350D, is there another much better mATX case of similar or smaller size and visuals for watercooling?
I also love the look of rigid tubing and was wondering how hard that is to use? I am a first time watercooler and would want to bend the tubes and not use fittings for bends.
I have a windforce gtx 970 and have only seen EK fullcover blocks for it and was wondering if anyone knows if there is anything else available as well as opinions of the plain black vs the clear one you can see the coolant through. On that topic I quite like the visual look of EK and their blocks, but i cannot find somewhere other than the EK site to buy the see through EK cpu block.
Finally I currently have a corsair h110 and was wondering if I can just reuse that rad in a custom loop or would I be better off buying another rad? Also would I need more than the 280mm rad to cool a 4790K and a 970?

Thanks in advance for any help


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanR*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am considering a custom loop in my system and thought I would look for some educated advice here.
> 
> I want to keep my system mATX and i currently have a corsair 350D, is there another much better mATX case of similar or smaller size and visuals for watercooling?
> I also love the look of rigid tubing and was wondering how hard that is to use? I am a first time watercooler and would want to bend the tubes and not use fittings for bends.
> I have a windforce gtx 970 and have only seen EK fullcover blocks for it and was wondering if anyone knows if there is anything else available as well as opinions of the plain black vs the clear one you can see the coolant through. On that topic I quite like the visual look of EK and their blocks, but i cannot find somewhere other than the EK site to buy the see through EK cpu block.
> Finally I currently have a corsair h110 and was wondering if I can just reuse that rad in a custom loop or would I be better off buying another rad? Also would I need more than the 280mm rad to cool a 4790K and a 970?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help


Well... Staying around the 350D size ( 450mm x 210mm x 440mm ) 17" / 17" what would be your budget? Personally am a Fan of Caselabs but they are quite the penny. They have quite a couple ranges of PC Cases that could suite your needs and some cases provide windows all the way around (Except front panel and rear of course)

If you are considering watercooling the AIO H110 could go on sale. I believe Bitspower Makes a block for the 970









Depending on your Voltage you are using (If overclocking the 4790k, which this is OCN, so I would think you are) a 280 would suffice although the more Rad space and fans on them the better









TCO


----------



## RyanR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well... Staying around the 350D size ( 450mm x 210mm x 440mm ) 17" / 17" what would be your budget? Personally am a Fan of Caselabs but they are quite the penny. They have quite a couple ranges of PC Cases that could suite your needs and some cases provide windows all the way around (Except front panel and rear of course)
> 
> If you are considering watercooling the AIO H110 could go on sale. I believe Bitspower Makes a block for the 970
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on your Voltage you are using (If overclocking the 4790k, which this is OCN, so I would think you are) a 280 would suffice although the more Rad space and fans on them the better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I would consider moving to a caselabs case but only after having a full loop up and running in another case and not liking the look or wanting to expand it a little more so for now I think I will stick with the 350D unless there are better options in the 100-130 range. I was looking at the Phanteks Enthoo mATX case as well as the Fractal Define S as both are similar height and width, I am not so concerned about depth. Anyway at this point in time I think I will stick with the 350D.

In regards to the H110, what I meant is that I have one now and was wondering if the rad is fine to add in to a custom loop if I pulled off the tubing and pump/block or is it noticeably worse than say an alphacool or EK rad?

I couldnt find a Bitspower block for the gigabyte card which is the one that I have. I do like to look of the EK blocks though so I am leaning towards them.

I think will run 2 280mm rads, top and front. I was also wondering if there is much performance difference between 280 and 240 rads and if I should just get a 240 for the front vs a 280 but I like the idea of having the biggest one possible so it fills the space which I think will look more visually pleasing.

I am currently using some akasa viper 140mm fans, do you think these are pretty good or are there better options out there, please keep in mind that I am very big on the visual side of things vs performance so a small gain in performance for something that is less visually appealing isnt worth it for me.

Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanR*
> 
> I would consider moving to a caselabs case but only after having a full loop up and running in another case and not liking the look or wanting to expand it a little more so for now I think I will stick with the 350D unless there are better options in the 100-130 range. I was looking at the Phanteks Enthoo mATX case as well as the Fractal Define S as both are similar height and width, I am not so concerned about depth. Anyway at this point in time I think I will stick with the 350D.
> 
> In regards to the H110, what I meant is that I have one now and was wondering if the rad is fine to add in to a custom loop if I pulled off the tubing and pump/block or is it noticeably worse than say an alphacool or EK rad?
> 
> I couldnt find a Bitspower block for the gigabyte card which is the one that I have. I do like to look of the EK blocks though so I am leaning towards them.
> 
> I think will run 2 280mm rads, top and front. I was also wondering if there is much performance difference between 280 and 240 rads and if I should just get a 240 for the front vs a 280 but I like the idea of having the biggest one possible so it fills the space which I think will look more visually pleasing.
> 
> I am currently using some akasa viper 140mm fans, do you think these are pretty good or are there better options out there, please keep in mind that I am very big on the visual side of things vs performance so a small gain in performance for something that is less visually appealing isnt worth it for me.
> 
> Thanks


Rad info Is here

Take a gander. If you want to stick with the 350D, why not! Just a suggestion.

TCO


----------



## szeged

finally got to start putting piping into my new build.



garbage quality lighting atm but whatever its not final picture time yet.

Getting that area plumbed up can be pretty annoying, spent a good 4-6 hours sitting there staring at it wondering how i wanted to do it.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> finally got to start putting piping into my new build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> garbage quality lighting atm but whatever its not final picture time yet.
> 
> Getting that area plumbed up can be pretty annoying, spent a good 4-6 hours sitting there staring at it wondering how i wanted to do it.


That looks sweet. Are those tubes acrylic or metal?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> That looks sweet. Are those tubes acrylic or metal?


its stainless steel. After i get everything cut to length im taking it all out and polishing it to a mirror finish.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its stainless steel. After i get everything cut to length im taking it all out and polishing it to a mirror finish.


It's got a real unique look. Can't wait to see more.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> It's got a real unique look. Can't wait to see more.


thanks.

Id have more done but all my tools to cut steel are breaking on me left and right, maybe i should get some tools made after 1960...


----------



## Ironsmack

Nice man! I guess no bends for you?

Or SS is really hard to bend?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Nice man! I guess no bends for you?
> 
> Or SS is really hard to bend?


SS is harder to bend than copper but also ive never really liked bent piping unless its done a certain way, just a personal taste really. I know a lot of people like bending their piping now, but im not making this rig for them, im making it for me


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> SS is harder to bend than copper but also ive never really liked bent piping unless its done a certain way, just a personal taste really. I know a lot of people like bending their piping now, but im not making this rig for them, im making it for me


I used to be the other way, I preferred bends to 45/90 fittings. But my new loop only has 2 90 bends (through necessity) and the rest of the runs are straightline and I've gotta say I'm leaning more towards the straightline over bends.

Anyhoo back on topic, it's looking good bruv


----------



## szeged

blade on my tube cutter failed me. Had to break out the 20 something year old bandsaw that hasnt been used in forever to get through the stainless.

Where the loop begins.




again sorry, not set up for photos atm, just quick pics showing the progress after half assing around for 2 months.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanR*
> 
> I would consider moving to a caselabs case but only after having a full loop up and running in another case and not liking the look or wanting to expand it a little more so for now I think I will stick with the 350D unless there are better options in the 100-130 range. I was looking at the Phanteks Enthoo mATX case as well as the Fractal Define S as both are similar height and width, I am not so concerned about depth. Anyway at this point in time I think I will stick with the 350D.
> 
> In regards to the H110, what I meant is that I have one now and was wondering if the rad is fine to add in to a custom loop if I pulled off the tubing and pump/block or is it noticeably worse than say an alphacool or EK rad?
> 
> I couldnt find a Bitspower block for the gigabyte card which is the one that I have. I do like to look of the EK blocks though so I am leaning towards them.
> 
> I think will run 2 280mm rads, top and front. I was also wondering if there is much performance difference between 280 and 240 rads and if I should just get a 240 for the front vs a 280 but I like the idea of having the biggest one possible so it fills the space which I think will look more visually pleasing.
> 
> I am currently using some akasa viper 140mm fans, do you think these are pretty good or are there better options out there, please keep in mind that I am very big on the visual side of things vs performance so a small gain in performance for something that is less visually appealing isnt worth it for me.
> 
> Thanks


You can also check out the Parvum cases. The S2.0 is a really good mAtx case with room for 2 240mm rads and a full size PSU.


----------



## zzorro

Wow ur rig and wc spec super nice








BTW your Monitor sepc..







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> finally got to start putting piping into my new build.
> 
> 
> 
> garbage quality lighting atm but whatever its not final picture time yet.
> 
> Getting that area plumbed up can be pretty annoying, spent a good 4-6 hours sitting there staring at it wondering how i wanted to do it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> blade on my tube cutter failed me. Had to break out the 20 something year old bandsaw that hasnt been used in forever to get through the stainless.
> 
> Where the loop begins.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> again sorry, not set up for photos atm, just quick pics showing the progress after half assing around for 2 months.


That looks super Great manicorn!

TCO


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> blade on my tube cutter failed me. Had to break out the 20 something year old bandsaw that hasnt been used in forever to get through the stainless.
> 
> Where the loop begins.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> again sorry, not set up for photos atm, just quick pics showing the progress after half assing around for 2 months.


wow! i just love it , and im like you, i like angle fittings, specially with this tubing


----------



## VSG

New be quiet! Silent Wings 3 fans coming out soon in all the same sizes and options as the Silent Wiings 2:





Those pics are from Computex. They are promising more performance at the same noise levels now which also means same performance at lower noise, so definitely looking forward to seeing how these work out.


----------



## emsj86

Where do you get the ss tubing and is it 12mm? Is that something can can be picked up at ppc. Lastly do only the push in fittings work or will it work with primo chill rigid fittings. Always like the look of the tubing


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well... Staying around the 350D size ( 450mm x 210mm x 440mm ) 17" / 17" what would be your budget? Personally am a Fan of Caselabs but they are quite the penny. They have quite a couple ranges of PC Cases that could suite your needs and some cases provide windows all the way around (Except front panel and rear of course)
> 
> If you are considering watercooling the AIO H110 could go on sale. I believe Bitspower Makes a block for the 970
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on your Voltage you are using (If overclocking the 4790k, which this is OCN, so I would think you are) a 280 would suffice although the more Rad space and fans on them the better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I agree on the H110 for the 4790K.. I hit the limits of my 4790K with voltage and clock speed and the H110 was able to cool it just fine with max temps hitting around 78c, but then went to custom water and temps are now 66c. I can't go any further on the custom water as the chip was at it's max pretty much.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> finally got to start putting piping into my new build.
> 
> 
> 
> garbage quality lighting atm but whatever its not final picture time yet.
> 
> Getting that area plumbed up can be pretty annoying, spent a good 4-6 hours sitting there staring at it wondering how i wanted to do it.


Looks good man! I love black and chrome!!!
I don't even want to think about how I'm gonna go about it. CPU block, two RAM blocks, chipset block and voltage regulators block with chrome plated copper pipe and C47s. Got a feeling it's gonna be a nightmare.
Damn it, you made me think about it...


----------



## Trestles126

Got a second gtx 780ti in the mail today matching ek block and backplate should be here tomorrow or Saturday and the build filled with coolant soon after.

I paid just about 700 for 2 780tis hope for the buck I didn't make a mistake and not get the latest and greatest


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New be quiet! Silent Wings 3 fans coming out soon in all the same sizes and options as the Silent Wiings 2:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those pics are from Computex. They are promising more performance at the same noise levels now which also means same performance at lower noise, so definitely looking forward to seeing how these work out.


I love my Silent Wings.

How did they get the blades off? Been trying for ages,I even snapped the hub off to see how to do it but no bueno.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

What's the Word today Ladies and Gents?

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What's the Word today Ladies and Gents?
> 
> TCO


Bird.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bird.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I love my Silent Wings.
> 
> How did they get the blades off? Been trying for ages,I even snapped the hub off to see how to do it but no bueno.....


I got those pics from be quiet! directly so I think the impeller was never installed on there at all.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I love my Silent Wings.
> 
> How did they get the blades off? Been trying for ages,I even snapped the hub off to see how to do it but no bueno.....


Don't you just have to peel the dust cover (sticker on hub) off and then take out the screw that is threaded into that center hole it looks like in that picture? Most fans can be taken apart once you take the dust cover off.

I just got my EK Vardar F4-120 2200rpm fans today, 10 of them total for my new rads, 2x 360mm and 1x 480mm. Also hooked up my 2nd D5 pump with the EK X-top since I had the loop apart and had the chance too. I have to say, DAME does it pump a lot more with 2x D5's in line with each other. While I was filling my loop, I had just my D5 X-res running to fill with. Then once it was full I turned that pump off and plugged in the X-top pump and ran that to see that it was working properly, yup, everything was just fine and seemed the same as the other pump running.

Then for kicks, I plugged both pumps in and turned them on together and then I could hear all kinds of flowing going on and then some extra air went out into the res and it was WAY MORE flow going on now with both. I thought I was just going to get a little more flow and they would be helping each other, but it has seriously like doubled the amount of flow in the loop. I'm not complaining one bit about that. I really would like to add a flow meter now so I can see how much water I'm moving per min. Try with just one D5 and then both to see the difference.

Now this is a little strange tho and maybe someone could answer this. My D5 X-res is a "vario" and my D5 X-top. I have both blue tach wires plugged into the motherboard to monitor the speed/rpms of both pumps. They are both hooked up straight to the PSU for full power. The "vario" runs at 4850rpm at full setting #5 , and the other D5 (which is a older Swiftech MCP655) is running at 4250-4300rpms?? I thought all these pumps were the same pretty much? Or is this now showing me that the specs I've seen of some sites saying 1200lph and some saying 1500lph what's going on? The 4850rpm = 1500lph and the 4250rpm = 1200lph?? That would make total sense now and is about right as far as the rpm difference to lph difference.

I set my vario down to match the 4250-4300rpm so they are both working at the same rpm now and it's PLENTY of flow power for sure. I'm happy with it, just a little curious to the differences and would like to know. Thanks if anyone knows something on this









EK Vardar's and the Dual pump setup


----------



## maverick-nld

MY RIG on overclock.net

thought i would add myself this way instead of posting the images again.
ok, simple watercooling hydro H110i GT but it does the job in my rig

cheers marco


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzorro*
> 
> Wow ur rig and wc spec super nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW your Monitor sepc..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That looks super Great manicorn!
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> wow! i just love it , and im like you, i like angle fittings, specially with this tubing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Looks good man! I love black and chrome!!!
> I don't even want to think about how I'm gonna go about it. CPU block, two RAM blocks, chipset block and voltage regulators block with chrome plated copper pipe and C47s. Got a feeling it's gonna be a nightmare.
> Damn it, you made me think about it...


Thanks guys, glad you like it. I've had to wait a long time to start the build but it's finally paying off. Should get the loop finished sometime next week, sleeving is mostly done, going to redo the pci-e cables, they have red accents and I don't think it will fit.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I got the screw holes drilled out for my Tube Res/Pump top and set it all up only to realize that the the straps provided by Bitspower to screw down the res cause it to bend backwards onto the male to male fitting that attaches the two. I'm assuming this is something I should be very worried about? For those who do use this method, how are you securing the two to the case?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I got the screw holes drilled out for my Tube Res/Pump top and set it all up only to realize that the the straps provided by Bitspower to screw down the res cause it to bend backwards onto the male to male fitting that attaches the two. I'm assuming this is something I should be very worried about? For those who do use this method, how are you securing the two to the case?


The Straps?

I use a Male/Male Fitting to attach pump/res together (All Bitspower) and I didn't have a problem




TCO


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Straps?
> 
> I use a Male/Male Fitting to attach pump/res together (All Bitspower) and I didn't have a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Your setup is different than mine though. I have this top http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-acetal-top-for-laing-d5-multiport.html which can't lay down and connect to a tube res vertically. By the straps I mean these things you see attached to the res like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-100-v2-clear-body-pom-version.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks, this is the plan for the reservoir (5 mm thickness acrylic cast) to be placed in front of the S5 case and integrated there on the build Grey Matter. Any thoughts or comments would be more than welcome. Reservoir will seat flush with the front panel of the case and both front panel and structure will be cut to fit it.



this is the reservoir like you will see looking at the front of the case. Dimensions 200x120x70 mm with AB = 70 mm, EA = 200 and BC = 120 mm. Red is the return line port located at 165 mm from the floor and 53 mm from the front of the reservoir. Yellow is the fill port located at the center (35 mm) and 80 mm from the front of the reservoir. Blue is the out line going to pump and located at 35 mm in the center of the floor and also at around 80mm from the front. Reservoir should be ready by the end of the next week and then things will speed up on grey matter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Although all the builds for the EK competition are pretty damn awesome & some really great work right there from all concerned, In the end there was only one that I just had to vote for, There's certainly no Negativity about all his builds as far as I'm concerned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> His modding skills have gone from strength to strength from when I first met him about three or four years ago at a comp show in Telford, Fantastic painting skills & great Ideas about layouts e.t.c....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam..


Nam good to see you mate. Agree cast my vote for it too. It is just impressive how clean on the hardware and sexy those copper tube looks on this build. Keep spirits high mate you will defeat this damn thing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Your setup is different than mine though. I have this top http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-acetal-top-for-laing-d5-multiport.html which can't lay down and connect to a tube res vertically. By the straps I mean these things you see attached to the res like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-100-v2-clear-body-pom-version.html


Well then it would seem that the pump fixture and set up you have it to far from the wall you are securing it to .

TCO


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New be quiet! Silent Wings 3 fans coming out soon in all the same sizes and options as the Silent Wiings 2:
> 
> Those pics are from Computex. They are promising more performance at the same noise levels now which also means same performance at lower noise, so definitely looking forward to seeing how these work out.


Awesome, but now I have to replace my SW2s







. How can I be a BeQuiet fan boy if I don't have the latest products?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I got those pics from be quiet! directly so I think the impeller was never installed on there at all.


Any idea when they will be available for purchase?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well then it would seem that the pump fixture and set up you have it to far from the wall you are securing it to .
> 
> TCO






That's the only way to mount it that I can see. I could pickup some longer screws but I do worry about the res just sort of bouncing around with them though.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Any idea when they will be available for purchase?


It's already out there in a way. Their new PSUs are using these. The retail fans themselves are probably Q4 or late Q3 at the earliest from what I know.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Got a second gtx 780ti in the mail today matching ek block and backplate should be here tomorrow or Saturday and the build filled with coolant soon after.
> 
> I paid just about 700 for 2 780tis hope for the buck I didn't make a mistake and not get the latest and greatest
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Trestles126

Looks like u need to add some spacers behind the strap


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Anyone Who can link me to the Bitspower Silver Thing that drops down into the Res for a return line will recieve Rep. GO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Looks like u need to add some spacers behind the strap


This.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Anyone Who can link me to the Bitspower Silver Thing that drops down into the Res for a return line will recieve Rep. GO
> This.
> 
> TCO


TLO = the lazy one....

It is linked a couple of pages back...

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/85530#post_23959957

edit - and btw I think you can use the ek one too since both are g1/4. Anyone can confirm that? Ek is made of acrylic.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> TLO = the lazy one....
> 
> It is linked a couple of pages back...


WHAT??? NOOO

TLO


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Looks like u need to add some spacers behind the strap


Just went to Ace and that's what the guy told me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Anyone Who can link me to the Bitspower Silver Thing that drops down into the Res for a return line will recieve Rep. GO
> This.
> 
> TCO


The aqua pipe? http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-male-g1-4-silver-shining-aqua-pipe-i-fitting.html


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Anyone Who can link me to the Bitspower Silver Thing that drops down into the Res for a return line will recieve Rep. GO




http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-male-g1-4-silver-shining-aqua-pipe-i-fitting.html#Specifications

Or


http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-female-g1-4-shining-silver-aqua-pipe-ii-fitting.html

I have one of each but used the aquapipe I


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Just went to Ace and that's what the guy told me.
> The aqua pipe? http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-male-g1-4-silver-shining-aqua-pipe-i-fitting.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-male-g1-4-silver-shining-aqua-pipe-i-fitting.html#Specifications


Reptilious!!

TCO. I went back all the way to when people were speaking of the Caselab Heists. COuldn't find the link GABE.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ny1 know anything about the Raijik mITX cases? Considering one or two of them for the Ladies of the house when I build their systems.









~Ceadder


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Reptilious!!
> 
> TCO. I went back all the way to when people were speaking of the Caselab Heists. COuldn't find the link GABE.


Well, it is going to be The Blind One then.


----------



## Ramzinho

You guys better lay off TCO or he is gonna hunt you down all and kill you one by one and become TCO. the crazy one


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You guys better lay off TCO or he is gonna hunt you down all and kill you one by one and become TCO. the crazy one












I'm ready.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Well, it is going to be The Blind One then.


Lol









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23944/ex-res-693/EK_X3_Resevoir_Internal_Tube_-_40mm_EK-RES_X3_-_Internal_Tube_1216_40mm.html?tl=g57c615s1884&id=QmZArmu6

here for reference only the ek. Have different sizes too. I canot confirm but it seems to me you can use it on bitspower reservoirs too and vice-versa since all are g1/4...Anyone can confirm?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

What screw do I need to mount a Magicool slim rad directly to a case? Just realized my original plan of mounting push with the fans in front won't work as the rad threads are too close to my res. Magicool only included the long ones.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> What screw do I need to mount a Magicool slim rad directly to a case? Just realized my original plan of mounting push with the fans in front won't work as the rad threads are too close to my res. Magicool only included the long ones.


M3-0.5 apparently

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11480/scr-229/M3_x_30mm_Pan_Head_Screws_-_Stainless_Steel_-_Black_-_4_Pack.html?tl=g30c477s1244


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> M3-0.5 apparently
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11480/scr-229/M3_x_30mm_Pan_Head_Screws_-_Stainless_Steel_-_Black_-_4_Pack.html?tl=g30c477s1244


Any idea what length for direct to case mounting? 5/10mm?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Any idea what length for direct to case mounting? 5/10mm?


depend on case material thickness but I would say 5 mm, perhaps 7 mm top length should do the trick. 10 mm would probably be too much.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Well, it is going to be The Blind One then.


Oh we got a Class act here eh







......









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You guys better lay off TCO or he is gonna hunt you down all and kill you one by one and become TCO. the crazy one


I've got some extra coolant lying around... You all know what happens when I start getting frisky
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ready.


They all say that at first.









I was asking Gabe too, Do yall think that the Bitspower DDC heatsink (Listed as compatible with the MCP350) would fit the MCP35X without a hassle?









I think I remember my baby @IT Diva having to carve where the cables come out of the back of the pump?

TCO


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> depend on case material thickness but I would say 5 mm, perhaps 7 mm top length should do the trick. 10 mm would probably be too much.


Alright thanks man.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> what does.....


Your red piped CPU block. Was supposed to be quoted but I was tired.Bit like this I mean - he did the designs for "Alien".


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Well, it is going to be The Blind One then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh we got a Class act here eh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You guys better lay off TCO or he is gonna hunt you down all and kill you one by one and become TCO. the crazy one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've got some extra coolant lying around... You all know what happens when I start getting frisky
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They all say that at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was asking Gabe too, Do yall think that the Bitspower DDC heatsink (Listed as compatible with the MCP350) would fit the MCP35X without a hassle?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I remember my baby @IT Diva having to carve where the cables come out of the back of the pump?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

It physically fits just fine, but it scrunches the wires rather excessively since there's 4 instead of 3.

Scrunching the wires with a plastic housing isn't good, but it's not potentially catastrophically bad.

Scrunching them with a metal housing seemed an invitation to ill fated smoke and disaster.

I relieved the cable exit area a bit with a dremel to use with my 35X's.

This is a bit more than needed, and subsequent ones got a little less relief, but it clearly displays the potential issue:



Darlene


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh we got a Class act here eh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got some extra coolant lying around... You all know what happens when I start getting frisky
> They all say that at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was asking Gabe too, Do yall think that the Bitspower DDC heatsink (Listed as compatible with the MCP350) would fit the MCP35X without a hassle?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I remember my baby @IT Diva having to carve where the cables come out of the back of the pump?
> 
> TCO


did i miss something? why are u looking for DDCs? u want more Head Pressure or u looking for a new rig already !


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It physically fits just fine, but it scrunches the wires rather excessively since there's 4 instead of 3.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Scrunching the wires with a plastic housing isn't good, but it's not potentially catastrophically bad.
> 
> Scrunching them with a metal housing seemed an invitation to ill fated smoke and disaster.
> 
> I relieved the cable exit area a bit with a dremel to use with my 35X's.
> 
> This is a bit more than needed, and subsequent ones got a little less relief, but it clearly displays the potential issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Perfect Diva! + Rep and







naturally









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> did i miss something? why are u looking for DDCs? u want more Head Pressure or u looking for a new rig already !


On to The NEXT!! I just ordered my S3 Caselabs (Gunmetal/ White ) With full windows all the way around. So I can fit a 240mm in the flex bay and a 120mm if I want to (but not really) this compute will just be for show at work.









TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Perfect Diva! + Rep and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> naturally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to The NEXT!! I just ordered my S3 Caselabs (Gunmetal/ White ) With full windows all the way around. So I can fit a 240mm in the flex bay and a 120mm if I want to (but not really) this compute will just be for show at work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Wishing you best of luck man







.. i'm sure your co workers will envy you bad


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It physically fits just fine, but it scrunches the wires rather excessively since there's 4 instead of 3.
> 
> Scrunching the wires with a plastic housing isn't good, but it's not potentially catastrophically bad.
> 
> Scrunching them with a metal housing seemed an invitation to ill fated smoke and disaster.
> 
> I relieved the cable exit area a bit with a dremel to use with my 35X's.
> 
> This is a bit more than needed, and subsequent ones got a little less relief, but it clearly displays the potential issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Hey Darlene, which tops did you use for the 35x? As well, how thick is that housing?


----------



## szeged

Anyone know what size hole I have to drill for bitspower pass through fittings?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Anyone know what size hole I have to drill for bitspower pass through fittings?


Like as discussed here?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1230088/bitspower-pass-thru-fillport-diameter/0_30


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Anyone know what size hole I have to drill for bitspower pass through fittings?


20mm

TCO


----------



## emsj86

I mentioned it before but the thread was kinda busy so probably overlooked. Does ppc sell as tubing if not where do you get it. In assuming it's 12 mm and any fitting can fit crystal link or primochill revolver ? Also seeing people sleeving there Pump cables. I know it's it but what size for single wire out the sleeves and heatsink?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I mentioned it before but the thread was kinda busy so probably overlooked. Does ppc sell as tubing if not where do you get it. In assuming it's 12 mm and any fitting can fit crystal link or primochill revolver ? Also seeing people sleeving there Pump cables. I know it's it but what size for single wire out the sleeves and heatsink?


PPCs sells tubing, yes. On their horrible website, go to shop by category, then watercooling and you will find tubing (hard and soft).

I've seen both the crystal link and revolver fittings on PPCS, so yes.

You will need to check the size of specific fittings you want to see if they have the tubing, which they should. IIRC, the only tubing that is "different" in size is the Monsoon, it tends to run a little smaller than the others. Check out the "how to bend acrylic" thread in the WC section for more info on that, lots of good info there.

I think I sleeved my pump cables with 1/8th sleeving..the ones that were not done with paracord, at least. it is good for 3 fan wires, or single 18-20ga easy.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> PPCs sells tubing, yes. On their horrible website, go to shop by category, then watercooling and you will find tubing (hard and soft).
> 
> I've seen both the crystal link and revolver fittings on PPCS, so yes.
> 
> You will need to check the size of specific fittings you want to see if they have the tubing, which they should. IIRC, the only tubing that is "different" in size is the Monsoon, it tends to run a little smaller than the others. Check out the "how to bend acrylic" thread in the WC section for more info on that, lots of good info there.
> 
> I think I sleeved my pump cables with 1/8th sleeving..the ones that were not done with paracord, at least. it is good for 3 fan wires, or single 18-20ga easy.


Thanks. I might have missed typed on my phone but I know they having tubing I was asking about stainless steel tubing and where to get it and if the normal size used is 12mm and if it works with pc revolver and it bp crystal link fittings


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I would rather stab myself in the eye than use PPCs site on my phone.


----------



## Ceadderman

Raijik mITX case for watercooling or no? Considering one or two for the womenz of the house.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Anyone know what size hole I have to drill for bitspower pass through fittings?


20mm is what you need, but you can use a 3/4" holesaw and clean up the last little bit with a dremel easy enough.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It physically fits just fine, but it scrunches the wires rather excessively since there's 4 instead of 3.
> 
> Scrunching the wires with a plastic housing isn't good, but it's not potentially catastrophically bad.
> 
> Scrunching them with a metal housing seemed an invitation to ill fated smoke and disaster.
> 
> I relieved the cable exit area a bit with a dremel to use with my 35X's.
> 
> This is a bit more than needed, and subsequent ones got a little less relief, but it clearly displays the potential issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Darlene, which tops did you use for the 35x? As well, how thick is that housing?
Click to expand...

That's the Watercool /heatkiller top.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkiller-dual-ddc-case-lt-acryl.html

The housing has to be within the tiniest fraction, the same thickness as the original plastic one . . .

The pump just fits in exactly as in the stock housing, and there's just the same amount of gap between 2 of them with the BP housing as with the stock housing when mounted.

Darlene


----------



## szeged

Thanks guys. I got a few hole saws and step drills that can get 20mm pretty easy.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Thanks guys. I got a few hole saws and step drills that can get 20mm pretty easy.


NP If you woulda let me know I could have dropped the bit in the mail for you that I snagged.

TCO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I would rather stab myself in the eye than use PPCs site on my phone.


You try to get on the website on your phone sometimes









I thought I was crazy.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Just found this:

FrozenCPU permanently closed

Computer Parts New Cooling & Mod Gear Liquidation Sale (Pittsford, NY)

:/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Thanks guys. I got a few hole saws and *step drills* that can get 20mm pretty easy.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Just found this:
> 
> FrozenCPU permanently closed
> 
> Computer Parts New Cooling & Mod Gear Liquidation Sale (Pittsford, NY)
> 
> :/


That liquidation on Craigslist has been up around the forums for about a month now


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Hi folks... I am back..

Bought 12 more monsoon fittings and paired them with some fresh cut petg 5/8 tubes, and I am leak testing now.









I decided to also try something new today, and although it isn't watercooling, it went the same way as everything else has lately... Couldn't get windows to load if I had the gpu driver installed.

Anyway, thank you all for the help, it is greatly appreciated.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That liquidation on Craigslist has been up around the forums for about a month now


Must have missed it somehow.


----------



## Ceadderman

That GPU run looks odd to me. If you're trying for parallel, I'm relatively sure that you're limiting your flow. I belive that Inlet/Outlet should be inline not staggered. I could be wrong though it looks nice.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That GPU run looks odd to me. If you're trying for parallel, I'm relatively sure that you're limiting your flow. I belive that Inlet/Outlet should be inline not staggered. I could be wrong though it looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Parallel needs to be staggered.it doesnt work otherwise.

Serial is staggered between the cards.


----------



## kizwan

It should be staggered. If inline it will only pass through don't you think?

EDIT: Opps! Ninja-d by BNEG.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Hi folks... I am back..
> 
> Bought 12 more monsoon fittings and paired them with some fresh cut petg 5/8 tubes, and I am leak testing now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to also try something new today, and although it isn't watercooling, it went the same way as everything else has lately... Couldn't get windows to load if I had the gpu driver installed.
> 
> Anyway, thank you all for the help, it is greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nicely done.

you should crush up the DICE even more to get it as close to the bottom of the holes in the pots as possible.


----------



## jagdtigger

Greetings.

I just got my new case(Define S). Can you recommend a 420*140 and a 360*120mm raditor for my config with fans? (The fans will be controlled by an AQ6.)

Thanks in advance for the help







.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Greetings.
> 
> I just got my new case(Define S). Can you recommend a 420*140 and a 360*120mm raditor for my config with fans? (The fans will be controlled by an AQ6.)
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


if you want a 420mm in the top its going to be a very tight fit.

Fractal says the top 420+fans can only be 55mm thick. That only leaves 30mm for the rad. I started to go that route on my R5, but my hero VI was going to have clearance issues even at 55mm with my ram and cpu 8pin.

Two 360mm rads will be a much better fit. Look here for rad comparisons.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Greetings.
> 
> I just got my new case(Define S). Can you recommend a 420*140 and a 360*120mm raditor for my config with fans? (The fans will be controlled by an AQ6.)
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Are you sure that both a 420 and a 360mm will fit? I know the case can handle a 420 according too fractal but there's not a lot of room for both...


----------



## jagdtigger

Ok im done with measuring things. Both of you were right, it wont fit in like that. Even if both of them 360mm long it will be too tight... The inside of the case is 440mm high and 470mm long. But if i use a 360*120*45 for the top and a 280*140*45 that would fit in nicely.... (Im planning on using the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 series for both rads.)

@Wirerat
Thanks for the link.

/EDIT
Im gonna risk the 2x360. Its tight but not impossible...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That GPU run looks odd to me. If you're trying for parallel, I'm relatively sure that you're limiting your flow. I belive that Inlet/Outlet should be inline not staggered. I could be wrong though it looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parallel needs to be staggered.it doesnt work otherwise.
> 
> Serial is staggered between the cards.
Click to expand...









See? I was wrong. An yes those words tasted like vinegar.







lol

Last LD trip before baby day.









~Ceadder


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That GPU run looks odd to me. If you're trying for parallel, I'm relatively sure that you're limiting your flow. I belive that Inlet/Outlet should be inline not staggered. I could be wrong though it looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Don't add more confusion to my life, lol. It has leak tested all night, and everything is beautiful.. I am so freaking happy right now. Hopefully it keeps going this well. Parts for my other system should be back soon, then I will post pictures of it also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> nicely done.
> 
> you should crush up the DICE even more to get it as close to the bottom of the holes in the pots as possible.


I spent about 20 minutes at the beginning crushing the dice, and when I would drop it in, it would disappear instantly and the temps would start rising about aa minute later. Once I got the temps down, I left them wand it would maintain negative 74 for about 20 minutes at a time. I never got the chance to bench anything other than the cpu, because of the video driver thing.


----------



## wermad

Anyone running ek zmt tube? Does it seal only the first time? I do like the matte finish but I'm worried it won't seal again if I take off the compression ring. Thanks!

-wermad


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running ek zmt tube? Does it seal only the first time? I do like the matte finish but I'm worried it won't seal again if I take off the compression ring. Thanks!
> 
> -wermad


im running it in my main. no issues with seals using Original CSQ fittings. I have drained it many times and pulled fittings off for various tweaks/upgrades with no issues.

The ZMT tubing is actually a lot more stretchy than normal soft tubing I have used.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone running ek zmt tube? Does it seal only the first time? I do like the matte finish but I'm worried it won't seal again if I take off the compression ring. Thanks!
> 
> -wermad


I have removed and reinstalled my ZMT several times with not one leak yet. It will look stretched from being on the fitting so long when you remove it but will reuse just fine.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> im running it in my main. no issues with seals using Original CSQ fittings. I have drained it many times and pulled fittings off for various tweaks/upgrades with no issues.
> 
> The ZMT tubing is actually a lot more stretchy than normal soft tubing I have used.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I have removed and reinstalled my ZMT several times with not one leak yet. It will look stretched from being on the fitting so long when you remove it but will reuse just fine.
Click to expand...

Thank you both









I'll have to think about it since I've read a few threads where it doesn't work with some fittings and/or doesn't seal again (as you guys pointed out it does stretch). I was browsing the tube section and noticed the ek zmt stuff. Then I remembered seeing it in Derick's build. Looks very sharp in matte but Im wary about it not sealing w/ my Bitspower fittings. Primochill is still on the top of my list but I really like the look of the ek zmt. Putting on my thinking cap


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to think about it since I've read a few threads where it doesn't work with some fittings and/or doesn't seal again (as you guys pointed out it does stretch). I was browsing the tube section and noticed the ek zmt stuff. Then I remembered seeing it in Derick's build. Looks very sharp in matte but Im wary about it not sealing w/ my Bitspower fittings. Primochill is still on the top of my list but I really like the look of the ek zmt. Putting on my thinking cap


I can't attest to other fittings, I have only used original CSQ fittings.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to think about it since I've read a few threads where it doesn't work with some fittings and/or doesn't seal again (as you guys pointed out it does stretch). I was browsing the tube section and noticed the ek zmt stuff. Then I remembered seeing it in Derick's build. Looks very sharp in matte but Im wary about it not sealing w/ my Bitspower fittings. Primochill is still on the top of my list but I really like the look of the ek zmt. Putting on my thinking cap


Black tygon has a similar matt finish. looks almost exactly like zmt.

Performancepcs sells it. Have a look.

Also remember zmt tubing is relatively cheap. You could buy extra and replace the tube if you remove a fitting.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Update time.........

The CHVF-Z is alive and kicking (the problem turned out to be a memory stick which worked perfectly fine in my secondary rig even to the point of passing multiple runs of Memtest but this board disliked it and that the 6 pin on the 7970 wasn't quite secure enough) along with my 7970 (see 6 pin problem), now I just need to get 1 more acrylic tube, 2 F-F 90's and 4 more Monsoon fittings and she'll be complete and p5ych00n5 will be one happy camper


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## p5ych00n5

New stuffs for replacing this as these are the only bends in my loop


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to think about it since I've read a few threads where it doesn't work with some fittings and/or doesn't seal again (as you guys pointed out it does stretch). I was browsing the tube section and noticed the ek zmt stuff. Then I remembered seeing it in Derick's build. Looks very sharp in matte but Im wary about it not sealing w/ my Bitspower fittings. Primochill is still on the top of my list but I really like the look of the ek zmt. Putting on my thinking cap


I fought a lost battle with EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm and Bitspower 3/5 x 5/8 compression fittings.
Couldn't get the collar to screw onto the base.
The Tygon Norprene tubing turned out to be the better option for the BP fittings.


----------



## ozzy1925

neefd some help








i need to use the top port of my res but i have worn out the x3 multiport top thread when tightening the ek g1/4 extender to my bp 90 degree fitting .I ordered a new top but new one will also have the same problem because the thread walls are very thin and the ek extenders teeth are very sharp and i couldnt find any better extender with the same diameter (16.75mm) .


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> neefd some help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i need to use the top port of my res but i have worn out the x3 multiport top thread when tightening the ek g1/4 extender to my bp 90 degree fitting .I ordered a new top but new one will also have the same problem because the thread walls are very thin and the ek extenders teeth are very sharp and i couldnt find any better extender with the same diameter (16.75mm) .


Plumbers teflon tape to take the sharpness away from the EK extender?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I fought a lost battle with EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm and Bitspower 3/5 x 5/8 compression fittings.
> Couldn't get the collar to screw onto the base.
> The Tygon Norprene tubing turned out to be the better option for the BP fittings.


Mine's the opposite. My EK ZMT tubing works well with my nickel and matt black BP fittings. However - the same fittings wouldn't work with a brand new Primochill Advance LRT i bought from a local member.

I just wrote it off as a bad batch.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Anyone know what size hole I have to drill for bitspower pass through fittings?


May I suggest this?


You can pick one of these bad boys up at most hardware stores. I think even Walmart carries them if you live near one. In case you're not familiar with this type of bit, it goes in a regular hand drill as do general drill bits. I have a couple of them and they work great. They last a long time too.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Plumbers teflon tape to take the sharpness away from the EK extender?


thanks,i was thinking of sanding the sharp teeth but will try the teflon tape first


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The competition may be over but the modding never stops...

Some final touches and the lighting,outdoor shots tomorrow!





Temps are good,Stock is 48c max on the CPU on OCCT and the GPU's dont go past 44c, not bad for a parallel full loop. Ambient is 24c

What is good is that the GPU temps dont have a knock on effect on the CPU other than equilibrium changes.


----------



## gr3nd3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The competition may be over but the modding never stops...
> 
> Some final touches and the lighting,outdoor shots tomorrow!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are good,Stock is 48c max on the CPU on OCCT and the GPU's dont go past 44c, not bad for a parallel full loop. Ambient is 24c
> 
> What is good is that the GPU temps dont have a knock on effect on the CPU other than equilibrium changes.


I didn't think it was possible but this just got better...


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nam good to see you mate. Agree cast my vote for it too. It is just impressive how clean on the hardware and sexy those copper tube looks on this build. Keep spirits high mate you will defeat this damn thing.


Ello Gabe







.... I will keep fighting for sure mate.... I've got too... I got a couple of builds I want to finish with new shinnies







... Just can't at the moment with my neck & shoulder giving me so much gip, I need a helper who can finish things really for me but there's no one near me that has any knowledge of water cooling & bending some acrylic for me e.t.c







.... But I'll get it done sometime I guess, I'm just impatient to get this GTX 980 strapped in & boot the thing up hehe...

Anyway dude... Real good to hear from you as always









Nam...


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The competition may be over but the modding never stops...
> 
> Some final touches and the lighting,outdoor shots tomorrow!
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are good,Stock is 48c max on the CPU on OCCT and the GPU's dont go past 44c, not bad for a parallel full loop. Ambient is 24c
> 
> What is good is that the GPU temps dont have a knock on effect on the CPU other than equilibrium changes.


That's really looking "SWEEEEEET" Neg, Damn Good temps as well & Looking forward to the Outdoor shots







....

Nam...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The competition may be over but the modding never stops...
> 
> Some final touches and the lighting,outdoor shots tomorrow!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are good,Stock is 48c max on the CPU on OCCT and the GPU's dont go past 44c, not bad for a parallel full loop. Ambient is 24c
> 
> What is good is that the GPU temps dont have a knock on effect on the CPU other than equilibrium changes.


Hey B, this build is really beautiful and I love it. Yet, I think white lights would do the build more favor than red lights. With red led that beautiful copper kind of disappear. Have you thought about that? Just mine









the details on the side panel were done with vinyl printer?

cheers

Hey Nam, yep mate I surely understand. If I was near you I would grab some Newcastle and help you out. Keep spirits high mate


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I fought a lost battle with EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm and Bitspower 3/5 x 5/8 compression fittings.
> Couldn't get the collar to screw onto the base.
> The Tygon Norprene tubing turned out to be the better option for the BP fittings.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Mine's the opposite. My EK ZMT tubing works well with my nickel and matt black BP fittings. However - the same fittings wouldn't work with a brand new Primochill Advance LRT i bought from a local member.
> 
> I just wrote it off as a bad batch.
Click to expand...

Tnx guys. I've used adv. lrt since it launched. The only fittings that were a pain to use with primochill were the enzotech and monsoon. I've been using BP for a while now with advance and it's very good.

Well, there's a bit of certainty with EK, so I'll get some primochill. Would have saved me a few bucks but I feel more confident with the primochill from my past experience w/ it.


----------



## rioja

Recently I posted some pics with EK DDC Dual top v2,

now I have moded Koolance heatsinks to get it assembled all together







I plan to mount it in 5.25 bays behind a rad


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tnx guys. I've used adv. lrt since it launched. The only fittings that were a pain to use with primochill were the enzotech and monsoon. I've been using BP for a while now with advance and it's very good.
> 
> Well, there's a bit of certainty with EK, so I'll get some primochill. Would have saved me a few bucks but I feel more confident in the my experience w/ primochill.


My experience with ek zmt was great Wer. Still using it in some builds along with swiftech, bitspower and ek fittings. You can always put it on warm water to get some more range to tight it down


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The competition may be over but the modding never stops...
> 
> Some final touches and the lighting,outdoor shots tomorrow!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are good,Stock is 48c max on the CPU on OCCT and the GPU's dont go past 44c, not bad for a parallel full loop. Ambient is 24c
> 
> What is good is that the GPU temps dont have a knock on effect on the CPU other than equilibrium changes.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey B, this build is really beautiful and I love it. Yet, I think white lights would do the build more favor than red lights. With red led that beautiful copper kind of disappear. Have you thought about that? Just mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the details on the side panel were done with vinyl printer?
> 
> cheers
> 
> Hey Nam, yep mate I surely understand. If I was near you I would grab some Newcastle and help you out. Keep spirits high mate
Click to expand...

Im using a full RGB led kit,i have 12 colours to choose from.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> My experience with ek zmt was great Wer. Still using it in some builds along with swiftech, bitspower and ek fittings. You can always put it on warm water to get some more range to tight it down


I really like the matte finish, but I just don't wanna risk a leak. Advance needs a dab of silicone grease inside to fit the BP barb but the locking ring goes on smooth. BP are the smoothest compression fittings I"ve used. I'll just order two retail packs of black onyx and be done with it







. I bit too shiny but it will get the job done. Other brands are in the same price range but I'm not sure if these are guaranteed against plasticize (ie swiftech, xspc, masterkleer, etc.).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Anyone Have an Idea of How to mount a DDC with Heatsink to a 120mm part of a Rad?

TCO

Looked at multiple brackets... but I thought there was a stand that attached to a 120mm for some reason.









My mind feels Fried (Maybe from all the LSD I've done in the past) after looking around all day at stuff and dimensions.









EDIT: Where can I find this


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Anyone Have an Idea of How to mount a DDC with Heatsink to a 120mm part of a Rad?
> 
> TCO
> 
> Looked at multiple brackets... but I thought there was a stand that attached to a 120mm for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My mind feels Fried (Maybe from all the LSD I've done in the past) after looking around all day at stuff and dimensions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Where can I find this


both are EK mounts.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/mounting-plates.html


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Anyone Have an Idea of How to mount a DDC with Heatsink to a 120mm part of a Rad?
> 
> TCO
> 
> Looked at multiple brackets... but I thought there was a stand that attached to a 120mm for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My mind feels Fried (Maybe from all the LSD I've done in the past) after looking around all day at stuff and dimensions.


Are you mounting the pump perpendicular or with the bottom flat on the fan area?

I noticed my bitspower ddc heatsink has threaded holes on the sides so if your using one of those it could mount to a fan grill easily.

Edit: the Ek brackets will look good but they limit you to the center position and you have to have room for it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> both are EK mounts.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/mounting-plates.html


Found it on PPC









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Are you mounting the pump perpendicular or with the bottom flat on the fan area?
> 
> I noticed my bitspower ddc heatsink has threaded holes on the sides so if your using one of those it could mount to a fan grill easily.
> 
> Edit: the Ek brackets will look good but they limit you to the center position and you have to have room for it.


It will be perpendicular (or however you spell that) the fan will be vertical.

TCO


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> EDIT: Where can I find this


It looks really ugly, just like most of modern Ek stuff

I would search some other ways, using UN design with smth else maybe


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Found it on PPC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be perpendicular (or however you spell that) the fan will be vertical.
> 
> TCO


cool. The ek mount is sweet. I just wish it positioned the mounting plate at the bottom instead of the center. So that you could actually fit a xres 140 on a 140/fan or rad.

That center position is great for pump only and not practical at all for pump/res.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> It looks really ugly, just like most of modern Ek stuff
> 
> I would search some other ways, using UN design with smth else maybe


You don't think I could make that bracket look Dope? Is that what you are implying?

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still need to make the last run. . .


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You don't think I could make that bracket look Dope? Is that what you are implying?
> 
> TCO


I could make it even uglier


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I could make it even uglier










You want some Too!!


















TCO


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Still need to make the last run. . .


If I was to make a suggestion I would have the pump to GPU/GPU to pump a 90 rather than a 45 to match the rest of the loop, otherwise good work


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Still need to make the last run. . .


is it me, or is your card sagging/leaning too much (for comfort)????

Use some cable anchors. Buy a cheap bag on ebay. A few small holes here and there will help you hold the anchors in place. I don't recommend sticky ones as they tend to crap out and not hold under the tension of the cables. If you CL's has thick aluminum, a drill and tap will make the securing process much better. I did a few M4 taps on my TX to secure some acrylic panels. I'll be doing a few more to secure the cables and tube (some on aluminum and others on the acrylic I added).


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You want some Too!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Oooohh Oooohh I do like a beatin..........*herhmm herhmm*

You could make it sexy, I would make it fuglier

Exhibit A: your Rig compared to my Rig


----------



## Wirerat

Made a Few minor changes. New ek 140 xres and ddc heatsink and cleaned up some tubing.




a 25mm thick fan would not fit under the pump as planned. Going to try a 15mm thick fan later or change the inlet/outlet so the res will not hit the gpu with a fan under it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Part of it is the angle of the shot (was aimed down towards the case) but I think there is some sag I need to clean up, probably can trim the tube from the gpu to the CPU. And yeah the case material is thick as I tapped holes to mount that reservoir in the mid panel lol. Also still on sleeving the cables l, just needed to get it up and running to ensure there were no issues with the board and gpu once I mounted the blocks. The constructive criticism is appreciated too


----------



## wermad

Cl are pretty spartan when it comes to cable management, so anchors help a lot. If you have some unused 6-32 mounting points, you can also use these. My old sth10 had a few and my tx has a bunch from the hptx mb trays. I'm not a hard core perfectionist, but a few simple things can improve the looks a notch or too.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So in the final prep step for my build, I was drilling the last hole I needed for my 280mm rad in the front panel of my Enthoo Pro and the entire thing bent in half...

So now I have to find a way to unbend it or buy an entirely new case and start over from scratch...


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Made a Few minor changes. New ek 140 xres and ddc heatsink and cleaned up some tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a 25mm thick fan would not fit under the pump as planned. Going to try a 15mm thick fan later or change the inlet/outlet so the res will not hit the gpu with a fan under it.


The fan for cooling?, or a mount/cooling?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So in the final prep step for my build, I was drilling the last hole I needed for my 280mm rad in the front panel of my Enthoo Pro and the entire thing bent in half...
> 
> So now I have to find a way to unbend it or buy an entirely new case and start over from scratch...


Use a heat gun to persuade it a bit?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> The fan for cooling?, or a mount/cooling?


was gonna provide some air flow across the bitspower ddc heatsink. Not that it really needs it but it is sitting right over a filtered fan opening so I figured why not.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Part of it is the angle of the shot (was aimed down towards the case) but I think there is some sag I need to clean up, probably can trim the tube from the gpu to the CPU. And yeah the case material is thick as I tapped holes to mount that reservoir in the mid panel lol. Also still on sleeving the cables l, just needed to get it up and running to ensure there were no issues with the board and gpu once I mounted the blocks. The constructive criticism is appreciated too


There's most likely criticism/advice on my layout as well but on OCN it's not "Hurr Durr u B n00b ***gt"


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> was gonna provide some air flow across the bitspower ddc heatsink. Not that it really needs it but it is sitting right over a filtered fan opening so I figured why not.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Use a heat gun to persuade it a bit?


Yeah I'm gonna pass it off to my stepdad and he'll see if he can fix it. Still don't get how the whole side just decided to bend like that...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Here is Trish. I love you all and will return a Made man in the next couple of hours of gameplay.



TCO


----------



## p5ych00n5

Oh my god, I built a system for a friend of a friend 3 years ago, I just got a call that said system is "slow" and can I have a look at it as I built it. The tone of the call was - "You built it, why is it slow"


----------



## RyanR

Hey,

I just wanted to ask if anyone had brought anything from sidewinder computers lately?

I purchased some fans a couple of months ago and have received half of them but havent seen anything or heard from them for about two months. I was just wondering if anyone could give me some insight into what might be going on there.

Thanks


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanR*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I just wanted to ask if anyone had brought anything from sidewinder computers lately?
> 
> I purchased some fans a couple of months ago and have received half of them but havent seen anything or heard from them for about two months. I was just wondering if anyone could give me some insight into what might be going on there.
> 
> Thanks


It's a really common experience over the last few years.

Gary doesn't seem to be involved any more or something.

There was a thread called "What's up with Gary" *full* of complaints and questions. It's been locked.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Oh my god, I built a system for a friend of a friend 3 years ago, I just got a call that said system is "slow" and can I have a look at it as I built it. The tone of the call was - "You built it, why is it slow"


OS could likely use a refresh. lol









~Ceadder


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Here is Trish. I love you all and will return a Made man in the next couple of hours of gameplay.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Someone have a digital crush??? Great game, I am enjoying it. Just made it to Skelleg.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Oh my god, I built a system for a friend of a friend 3 years ago, I just got a call that said system is "slow" and can I have a look at it as I built it. The tone of the call was - "You built it, why is it slow"


Probably infested with these:


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## RyanR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's a really common experience over the last few years.
> 
> Gary doesn't seem to be involved any more or something.
> 
> There was a thread called "What's up with Gary" *full* of complaints and questions. It's been locked.


Have you heard if the get in touch eventually or do they just ignore you and take the money?

I am kind of confused as to what I should do from here

Thanks


----------



## NexusRed

Has anyone tried out the Fractal Design Venturi High Pressure Series 12 PWM fans? Specs are pretty decent.

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/case-fans/venturi-series/venturi-hp-14-pwm


----------



## Ceadderman

Personally, I would file a claim against the whole thing via payment route. Whether that's PPal or majorCC Company. If it's gone this long an you've heard nothing, you're not going to.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NexusRed*
> 
> Has anyone tried out the Fractal Design Venturi High Pressure Series 12 PWM fans? Specs are pretty decent.
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/case-fans/venturi-series/venturi-hp-14-pwm


I have not tested the high pressure model yet. I do own the 140mm high flow version though. Im sure the specs are exaggerated but I am using it as exhaust and its moving a good bit of air to be so quiet at 1200rpm.


----------



## RyanR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Personally, I would file a claim against the whole thing via payment route. Whether that's PPal or majorCC Company. If it's gone this long an you've heard nothing, you're not going to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


But I have received 3 of the 5 fans I ordered so I can't claim the whole thing back.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's your only recourse an if someone is there they will contact over the dispute. Let your method of payment be the middle man. I am not suggesting this route lightly. But I have had to dispute a few claims and have learned from those experiences. Trust me, if they're ignoring you it won't be for long and they'll likely will offer to complete the order or refund the difference.









Either way you win. Problem solved.









~Ceadder


----------



## gdubc

I've been googling for a bit and searching here but no luck, can anyone tell me if any of the d5 cover kits available work with this res? http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3191

I'm assuming not since I can't seem to find any pics with said setup.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I fought a lost battle with EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm and Bitspower 3/5 x 5/8 compression fittings.
> Couldn't get the collar to screw onto the base.
> The Tygon Norprene tubing turned out to be the better option for the BP fittings.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Mine's the opposite. My EK ZMT tubing works well with my nickel and matt black BP fittings. However - the same fittings wouldn't work with a brand new Primochill Advance LRT i bought from a local member.
> 
> I just wrote it off as a bad batch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Tnx guys. I've used adv. lrt since it launched. The only fittings that were a pain to use with primochill were the enzotech and monsoon. I've been using BP for a while now with advance and it's very good.
> 
> Well, there's a bit of certainty with EK, so I'll get some primochill. Would have saved me a few bucks but I feel more confident with the primochill from my past experience w/ it.
Click to expand...

I think tubing size also play a role too. I don't have problem with primochill & monsoon compression fittings though.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 20mm is what you need, but you can use a 3/4" holesaw and clean up the last little bit with a dremel easy enough.
> That's the Watercool /heatkiller top.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkiller-dual-ddc-case-lt-acryl.html
> 
> The housing has to be within the tiniest fraction, the same thickness as the original plastic one . . .
> 
> The pump just fits in exactly as in the stock housing, and there's just the same amount of gap between 2 of them with the BP housing as with the stock housing when mounted.
> 
> Darlene


Ahh, thanks Darlene


----------



## jagdtigger

Okay im about to order the parts for the cooling but im not sure if this fan can handle this radiator...







As for the pump i will buy a second DDC and a dual DDC top and 2 passive heatsink.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

After a quick and dirty [email protected]

CPU spikes to 72 on its hottest core with OCCT,normal use it hits 64,4 hrs of OCCT,no errors and no hesitation in any software I have used (Keyshot,Solidworks,Wargame.....)

I can see a second D5 or a pair of DDC's going in for sure,along with an XE rad.

All in all,not bad at all.....

No linpack or AVX tho...not representative of my work load at all.

EDIT: The picture the Corsair link now rocks....










With white lighting for Gabe.


----------



## Trestles126

Probably not the best place but thought I'd try here as well

The second PCI slot to run second gpu. The solders only run halfway down the left side of slot not all the way across. The inside of the slot has the same amount of metal contact clips as solders but two inches later it has a few more clips on the inside right below the " 850" marking on the board. There is no solder but I do see a lil nub of circuitry in that one spot. Now if it was connected to PCI slot I'm not sure and if it was why wouldn't there be solder there as well. The PCI slot is on there good I can not make it budge. But I did see that one end lift up id say a quarter inch when I pulled the card.

All solders are fine but I'm confused about the 850 marking and what is below the PCI module at that point.

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...976CC9B9-75A0-4255-AEB3-40B12F331EED.jpg.html

And here are some pics of my new gpu sli setup that got me in this pickle

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...2792D6F3-204E-408B-9AB5-BC1317DB64D9.jpg.html


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Probably not the best place but thought I'd try here as well
> 
> The second PCI slot to run second gpu. The solders only run halfway down the left side of slot not all the way across. The inside of the slot has the same amount of metal contact clips as solders but two inches later it has a few more clips on the inside right below the " 850" marking on the board. There is no solder but I do see a lil nub of circuitry in that one spot. Now if it was connected to PCI slot I'm not sure and if it was why wouldn't there be solder there as well. The PCI slot is on there good I can not make it budge. But I did see that one end lift up id say a quarter inch when I pulled the card.
> 
> All solders are fine but I'm confused about the 850 marking and what is below the PCI module at that point.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...976CC9B9-75A0-4255-AEB3-40B12F331EED.jpg.html
> 
> And here are some pics of my new gpu sli setup that got me in this pickle
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...2792D6F3-204E-408B-9AB5-BC1317DB64D9.jpg.html


The "solders" only run halfway because that PCIe x16 slot is x8 lanes physical electrical connections. Because of this there's no "solder" after that.

Regarding the "quarter inch"-end lift up when you pulled the card out, it shouldn't do that. Did you push the little tab that use to secure & lock the card in place, at the end of the slot while pulling the card? If I'm not mistaken, with x8 lanes slot, there should be something under the slot that will lock & secure the slot to the motherboard.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The "solders" only run halfway because that PCIe x16 slot is x8 lanes physical electrical connections. Because of this there's no "solder" after that.
> 
> Regarding the "quarter inch"-end lift up when you pulled the card out, it shouldn't do that. Did you push the little tab that use to secure & lock the card in place, at the end of the slot while pulling the card? If I'm not mistaken, with x8 lanes slot, there should be something under the slot that will lock & secure the slot to the motherboard.


Thanks that makes perfect sense. Yes pushed the tab I Had to pull my dual cards out together because they were linked with tube and it got hung up a bit... Like I said the soldered end was intact. But down towards the end where the fasten clip is it was bound up and I think the leverage of the card got it to lift up a bit. Now with the card out. I can't make that end budge by hand or lift it up. Just afraid that under neath that B50 or 850 marking there might be connection to the PCI slot " not soldered" that may have been messed up. If there is no soldering should I assume there is no connection to the PCI slot at that end of card? The only thing that makes me think otherwise is at that end of the PCI slot on the inside there are contact clips that the card makes contact with right above the area that I'm concerned about. The PCI slot is on there good I've read where people have it loose and dangling. Mine is on there like a rock but I did happen to notice it lift up slightly at the non soldered side for a brief moment

May just continue with build and test my luck if it's not picking up card I'll just have to drain and purchase a new board.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The "solders" only run halfway because that PCIe x16 slot is x8 lanes physical electrical connections. Because of this there's no "solder" after that.
> 
> Regarding the "quarter inch"-end lift up when you pulled the card out, it shouldn't do that. Did you push the little tab that use to secure & lock the card in place, at the end of the slot while pulling the card? If I'm not mistaken, with x8 lanes slot, there should be something under the slot that will lock & secure the slot to the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks that makes perfect sense. Yes pushed the tab I Had to pull my dual cards out together because they were linked with tube and it got hung up a bit... Like I said the soldered end was intact. But down towards the end where the fasten clip is it was bound up and I think the leverage of the card got it to lift up a bit. Now with the card out. I can't make that end budge by hand or lift it up. Just afraid that under neath that B50 or 850 marking there might be connection to the PCI slot " not soldered" that may have been messed up. *If there is no soldering should I assume there is no connection to the PCI slot at that end of card?* The only thing that makes me think otherwise is at that end of the PCI slot on the inside there are contact clips that the card makes contact with right above the area that I'm concerned about. The PCI slot is on there good I've read where people have it loose and dangling. Mine is on there like a rock but I did happen to notice it lift up slightly at the non soldered side for a brief moment
> 
> May just continue with build and test my luck if it's not picking up card I'll just have to drain and purchase a new board.
Click to expand...

Affirmative! There's no physical electrical connections there. Should be ok though if nothing happen to the pins in the slot.


----------



## Trestles126

Thank u sir that's what I was hoping and figuring I figured connections are all done by solder and if there was no solder then hopefully it is fine. Worst case I'll pull it all apart and get a new mobo :/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> After a quick and dirty [email protected]
> 
> CPU spikes to 72 on its hottest core with OCCT,normal use it hits 64,4 hrs of OCCT,no errors and no hesitation in any software I have used (Keyshot,Solidworks,Wargame.....)
> 
> I can see a second D5 or a pair of DDC's going in for sure,along with an XE rad.
> 
> All in all,not bad at all.....
> 
> No linpack or AVX tho...not representative of my work load at all.
> 
> EDIT: The picture the Corsair link now rocks....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With white lighting for Gabe.










Love it

Good temps actually. When you have time report on some game sessions temperature. On a side note that ek logo on the side panel along with the name was done in vinyl (something like a cameo)?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> After a quick and dirty [email protected]
> 
> CPU spikes to 72 on its hottest core with OCCT,normal use it hits 64,4 hrs of OCCT,no errors and no hesitation in any software I have used (Keyshot,Solidworks,Wargame.....)
> 
> I can see a second D5 or a pair of DDC's going in for sure,along with an XE rad.
> 
> All in all,not bad at all.....
> 
> No linpack or AVX tho...not representative of my work load at all.
> 
> EDIT: The picture the Corsair link now rocks....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With white lighting for Gabe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it
> 
> Good temps actually. When you have time report on some game sessions temperature. On a side note that ek logo on the side panel along with the name was done in vinyl (something like a cameo)?
Click to expand...

Yup,I have a portrait tho, not the cameo.
Has a nice embossed effect,I could of just cut an air brush mask but I wanted the raised look.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Affirmative! There's no physical electrical connections there. Should be ok though if nothing happen to the pins in the slot.


That is the clip to the left its alone by itself, that I'm worried about I can't see any solder underneath it.
Let me ask this since the PCI slot is so sturdy and on there if it did seperate something and it's pressed back down on the seperate hard. Would that cause a short or cause any damage if I tried to see if it would post


----------



## By-Tor

Phanteks Enthoo Primo

Build log here...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build#post_23992577


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Ok im done with measuring things. Both of you were right, it wont fit in like that. Even if both of them 360mm long it will be too tight... The inside of the case is 440mm high and 470mm long. But if i use a 360*120*45 for the top and a 280*140*45 that would fit in nicely.... (Im planning on using the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 series for both rads.)
> 
> @Wirerat
> Thanks for the link.
> 
> /EDIT
> Im gonna risk the 2x360. Its tight but not impossible...


I also have a define s and did some test fitting, with an rs360 rad in the front with ports at the bottom there was 51mm clearance to the top of the case, so you could fit an st30 420 rad and fans in the top with ports at the rear of the case and no rear fan, and an rx360 in the front with ports at the bottom, and a 120 on the bottom with a standard size psu and a res/pump combo mounted on the wall.

I plan to do this minus the top rad until I go from 1150 and single gpu to 2011v3 and sli in a year or so.


----------



## snef

last Update for Gold Wings

The Movie


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> I also have a define s and did some test fitting, with an rs360 rad in the front with ports at the bottom there was 51mm clearance to the top of the case, so you could fit an st30 420 rad and fans in the top with ports at the rear of the case and no rear fan, and an rx360 in the front with ports at the bottom, and a 120 on the bottom with a standard size psu and a res/pump combo mounted on the wall.
> 
> I plan to do this minus the top rad until I go from 1150 and single gpu to 2011v3 and sli in a year or so.


If there is 51mm space at the top a 30mm rad with 25mm fans wont fit at all. 30+25mm


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Affirmative! There's no physical electrical connections there. Should be ok though if nothing happen to the pins in the slot.


One last question as you have been helpful and I'm about to give u rep. The back of the 8x location on the board also has no visible solder at that end of the PCI slot. Is it safe to make the conclusion that even though there's a lil tid bit of metal ( not sure exactly what to call it. That if its not soldered behind the board that it isn't meant to be fused together right there on the PCI slot. Seeing that I am really not familiar with the construction of electronics I can't make a safe judgement. Just trying to use common sense. I'm gonna try to go home and get better pictures of the area


----------



## MapRef41N93W

How do people get perfectly aligned fittings/tubing between the motherboard waterblocks and cpu waterblock? I am trying my darndest here, but every single combination of fitting/extender/rotary doesn't seem to give that perfect alignment (like in TCO's build for instance). I'm always a tad bit too high or too short as the cpu block is obviously higher than the motherboard chipset/vrm blocks.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Affirmative! There's no physical electrical connections there. Should be ok though if nothing happen to the pins in the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> One last question as you have been helpful and I'm about to give u rep. The back of the 8x location on the board also has no visible solder at that end of the PCI slot. Is it safe to make the conclusion that even though there's a lil tid bit of metal ( not sure exactly what to call it. That if its not soldered behind the board that it isn't meant to be fused together right there on the PCI slot. Seeing that I am really not familiar with the construction of electronics I can't make a safe judgement. Just trying to use common sense. I'm gonna try to go home and get better pictures of the area
Click to expand...

Just flip your motherboard, you will be able to see the connections. Dude is 100% right, its an 8x slot, says so on your board right below the slot. The red piece of plastic may have metal connections all the way across because it is not cost effective to have two machines to punch different numbers of pins, but they do not get soldered to the board.

Here is the best example of what he was trying to explain in picture form...look at the pads for the first and second PCIE slots, despite being the same size, one has less solder pads.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Just flip your motherboard, you will be able to see the connections. Dude is 100% right, its an 8x slot, says so on your board right below the slot. The red piece of plastic may have metal connections all the way across because it is not cost effective to have two machines to punch different numbers of pins, but they do not get soldered to the board.
> 
> Here is the best example of what he was trying to explain in picture form...look at the pads for the first and second PCIE slots, despite being the same size, one has less solder pads.


I understand what he is saying thanks a lot for the help I found a good picture of the solder I think I may have broke it runs parrelel to the end of the main x16 PCI slot. If That was broken and seems to be directly at the end of the PCI slot where the metal contacts are ( there is a huge gap between the 8x solders and then the solder at the very end) is it safe to say it probably work work? Or may that just be their way of holding it in place ? Further not ideal or may not be good at all if the PCI slot is hard intact and that one solder split can I run it based on it making good contact or would that be dangerous. Looks like a 230 board may be in my future for piece of mind or a possible repair...


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> How do people get perfectly aligned fittings/tubing between the motherboard waterblocks and cpu waterblock? I am trying my darndest here, but every single combination of fitting/extender/rotary doesn't seem to give that perfect alignment (like in TCO's build for instance). I'm always a tad bit too high or too short as the cpu block is obviously higher than the motherboard chipset/vrm blocks.


He's using 90 degree fittings and straight tubes. All you have to do is cut the tubes correctly and then it will fit just the same as TCO's build. Very easy to do if you have the right tools to measure and cut the tubes with. Look at his again if you need.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> He's using 90 degree fittings and straight tubes. All you have to do is cut the tubes correctly and then it will fit just the same as TCO's build. Very easy to do if you have the right tools to measure and cut the tubes with. Look at his again if you need.


Yeah I have 90/45 degree fittings and a handheld plastic tube cutter. The problem is I can't get them to align properly from the mobo blocks to the cpu block. One of my fittings will sit higher and give me a kink on the tubing. Even using rotary adapters/ek extenders I just can not for the life of me get a straight line for the tubing.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> How do people get perfectly aligned fittings/tubing between the motherboard waterblocks and cpu waterblock? I am trying my darndest here, but every single combination of fitting/extender/rotary doesn't seem to give that perfect alignment (like in TCO's build for instance). I'm always a tad bit too high or too short as the cpu block is obviously higher than the motherboard chipset/vrm blocks.


This is a good discussion that needs to be opened for the experts to school us novices.


----------



## jon666

Might get the full copper raystorm. O ly one I saw that is full copper. Googling on phone is a pita. Are there any othrr full copper cpu blocks out there?


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If there is 51mm space at the top a 30mm rad with 25mm fans wont fit at all. 30+25mm


aand thats why I shouldn't be doing math at 5am. I guess I could only fit the koolance 25mm thick rad up top then.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yeah I have 90/45 degree fittings and a handheld plastic tube cutter. The problem is I can't get them to align properly from the mobo blocks to the cpu block. One of my fittings will sit higher and give me a kink on the tubing. Even using rotary adapters/ek extenders I just can not for the life of me get a straight line for the tubing.


Either im not understanding what you mean or you arent quite grapsing the concept. So say you have a 90 degree fitting going from ram to CPU (RAM sits higher). If you did all fittings with no bending you would have a fitting on the CPU block. You would cut acrylic tube that is straight and stick it in the CPU block. Then you could take the BP 90 dual link fitting thing like this:


And stick it on top of that straight tube in the CPU block. To adjust the height so it lines up at the same level as the 90 degres on the RAM you just sand/cut a bit more off the CPU one (granted you left it long not made it too short since you cant add material.

Long story short making it line up height wise off of the board/blocks is up to your fine tweaking but any height is possible with this method.

Anothet method is using fotting extendera but thats where you can run into confusing things and other things possibly not working out as well.

Am i being as clear as mud?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yeah I have 90/45 degree fittings and a handheld plastic tube cutter. The problem is I can't get them to align properly from the mobo blocks to the cpu block. One of my fittings will sit higher and give me a kink on the tubing. Even using rotary adapters/ek extenders I just can not for the life of me get a straight line for the tubing.


extender of different sizes if you are doing the fittings way. It is useful to have some 5, 10, 15, 20 mm and so on extenders when you are doing that way. Most of the time female-male but sometimes the trick is to have female-female or male-male.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c101/s1354/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Accessories-Fitting_Extenders-Page1.html

Edit - it is amazing how easy to find things are in FZCPU site...PPC need to do the same. I still miss FZCPU. Hopefully someone else will step up the game and enter the fray. The loss of FZCPU and Specialtech was a blown...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> How do people get perfectly aligned fittings/tubing between the motherboard waterblocks and cpu waterblock? I am trying my darndest here, but every single combination of fitting/extender/rotary doesn't seem to give that perfect alignment (like in TCO's build for instance). I'm always a tad bit too high or too short as the cpu block is obviously higher than the motherboard chipset/vrm blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> He's using 90 degree fittings and straight tubes. All you have to do is cut the tubes correctly and then it will fit just the same as TCO's build. Very easy to do if you have the right tools to measure and cut the tubes with. Look at his again if you need.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yeah I have 90/45 degree fittings and a handheld plastic tube cutter. The problem is I can't get them to align properly from the mobo blocks to the cpu block. One of my fittings will sit higher and give me a kink on the tubing. Even using rotary adapters/ek extenders I just can not for the life of me get a straight line for the tubing.


The thing is that TCO is using acrylic and he's able to make custom length tubes instead of using extension fittings. With soft tubing it's best to use extension fittings to align the tubing runs. At least wiith EK blocks they spacing is always in 5mm increments, so 5mm 10mm 15mm extensions help. Not sure what blocks you have Map.
I've done some complex motherboard/CPU block installs with soft tubing but it's a *lot* more difficult to get the spacing compatible and do the actual tubing up.








What makes it a lot easier is to just use angled fittings and allow the tubes to arc.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If there is 51mm space at the top a 30mm rad with 25mm fans wont fit at all. 30+25mm
> 
> 
> 
> aand thats why I shouldn't be doing math at 5am. I guess I could only fit the koolance 25mm thick rad up top then.
Click to expand...

You can put any 30mm Radiator up top so long as you get fans that are 20mm or less than that in thickness will fit in that 51mm of space. I have a lot more room and ran HWLabs Stealth 360 and 20mm Yate Loon Mediums for quite awhile
due to the want of keeping my Radiator out of site in my 932 with the stock window. So long as you account for the loss of real estate you should be fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yeah I have 90/45 degree fittings and a handheld plastic tube cutter. The problem is I can't get them to align properly from the mobo blocks to the cpu block. One of my fittings will sit higher and give me a kink on the tubing. Even using rotary adapters/ek extenders I just can not for the life of me get a straight line for the tubing.


Think you missed my point. You use the tube to make it right. Put a piece of tube in your fitting on the cpu block fitting, put a piece of tube in the mobo block fitting, then take something that is flat and put it up to both piece's of tube and make a mark and them cut both tubes and they will be perfectly aligned.. You get that right?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Might get the full copper raystorm. O ly one I saw that is full copper. Googling on phone is a pita. Are there any othrr full copper cpu blocks out there?


Watercool has their full copper Heatkiller IV blocks also, especially the Pro version.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Watercool has their full copper Heatkiller IV blocks also, especially the Pro version.


Also check out the EK Supremacy EVO full copper, if that's copper enough for ya









http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo/ek-supremacy-evo-full-copper-original-csq.html


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The thing is that TCO is using acrylic and he's able to make custom length tubes instead of using extension fittings. With soft tubing it's best to use extension fittings to align the tubing runs. At least wiith EK blocks they spacing is always in 5mm increments, so 5mm 10mm 15mm extensions help. Not sure what blocks you have Map.
> I've done some complex motherboard/CPU block installs with soft tubing but it's a *lot* more difficult to get the spacing compatible and do the actual tubing up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What makes it a lot easier is to just use angled fittings and allow the tubes to arc.


How I did mine

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...6C0E3CF2-91AA-4127-975B-8168AD4DCF9D.jpg.html


----------



## jon666

I'm liking the description of the heatkiller. Described as heavy, must translate into durability. Lol. Might pull the trigger, hopefully this is the only thing I have to replace.


----------



## VeritronX

I have a new plan for the Define S.. once I get the rx120 for the bottom I'll see if it will fit sideways in the front with the ports near the window.. if it does I can remove most of the front mount points and make a custom mount plate to put three rx120s in the front and have almost 10mm extra room in the top for a 420 and fans.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Either im not understanding what you mean or you arent quite grapsing the concept. So say you have a 90 degree fitting going from ram to CPU (RAM sits higher). If you did all fittings with no bending you would have a fitting on the CPU block. You would cut acrylic tube that is straight and stick it in the CPU block. Then you could take the BP 90 dual link fitting thing like this:
> 
> And stick it on top of that straight tube in the CPU block. To adjust the height so it lines up at the same level as the 90 degres on the RAM you just sand/cut a bit more off the CPU one (granted you left it long not made it too short since you cant add material.
> 
> Long story short making it line up height wise off of the board/blocks is up to your fine tweaking but any height is possible with this method.
> 
> Anothet method is using fotting extendera but thats where you can run into confusing things and other things possibly not working out as well.
> 
> Am i being as clear as mud?


Oh I see, acrylic tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> extender of different sizes if you are doing the fittings way. It is useful to have some 5, 10, 15, 20 mm and so on extenders when you are doing that way. Most of the time female-male but sometimes the trick is to have female-female or male-male.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c101/s1354/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Accessories-Fitting_Extenders-Page1.html
> 
> Edit - it is amazing how easy to find things are in FZCPU site...PPC need to do the same. I still miss FZCPU. Hopefully someone else will step up the game and enter the fray. The loss of FZCPU and Specialtech was a blown...


Yeah I bought a bunch of extenders but mostly 20,30,50mm. I did buy 3 or 4 of the 12mm but didn't realize that they were F-F which I'm not really sure what to do with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The thing is that TCO is using acrylic and he's able to make custom length tubes instead of using extension fittings. With soft tubing it's best to use extension fittings to align the tubing runs. At least wiith EK blocks they spacing is always in 5mm increments, so 5mm 10mm 15mm extensions help. Not sure what blocks you have Map.
> I've done some complex motherboard/CPU block installs with soft tubing but it's a *lot* more difficult to get the spacing compatible and do the actual tubing up.
> What makes it a lot easier is to just use angled fittings and allow the tubes to arc.


I have an EK Supremacy Evo and a MIPS Full Cover RIVE block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Think you missed my point. You use the tube to make it right. Put a piece of tube in your fitting on the cpu block fitting, put a piece of tube in the mobo block fitting, then take something that is flat and put it up to both piece's of tube and make a mark and them cut both tubes and they will be perfectly aligned.. You get that right?


Yeah I get it.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> last Update for Gold Wings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The Movie


That power cord is everything! lol







. I wish it was filmed in 4K so i can soak it all in







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I'm liking the description of the heatkiller. Described as heavy, must translate into durability. Lol. Might pull the trigger, hopefully this is the only thing I have to replace.


Rather the acetal or plexi tops, HK typically use a copper tops. They are heavy bastards







.


----------



## VeritronX

Anyone here had problems with sabertooth boards and a cpu block without the extra fans installed? Mine just shut down during a game of bf4 after playing for an hour and now it won't boot =(


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I'm liking the description of the heatkiller. Described as heavy, must translate into durability. Lol. Might pull the trigger, hopefully this is the only thing I have to replace.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Rather the acetal or plexi tops, HK typically use a copper tops. They are heavy bastards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


And some of the IV are among the most beautiful blocks out there right now. This one is from http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/5/ review:



Pro Copper Anthracite









got mine two days ago. The thing is so reflexive that you can see the lens of the camera:


----------



## kizwan

This is my watercooled rig. I admit it's not aesthetically appealing & probably an eyesore to most people but it look gorgeous to me & that is all that matters.











Now, since I fulfilled the perquisite of this thread...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Affirmative! There's no physical electrical connections there. Should be ok though if nothing happen to the pins in the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> That is the clip to the left its alone by itself, that I'm worried about I can't see any solder underneath it.
> Let me ask this since the PCI slot is so sturdy and on there if it did seperate something and it's pressed back down on the seperate hard. Would that cause a short or cause any damage if I tried to see if it would post
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Actually that is interesting. When I look closely to my motherboard, at the x8 slot, there is a pin there, at the same place. According to pinout it's sense pin & it doesn't electrically connect to anything.



Just make sure the pins stay in their place & doesn't bend that can allow it to touch adjacent pins on the graphic card, it should be ok.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The thing is that TCO is using acrylic and he's able to make custom length tubes instead of using extension fittings. With soft tubing it's best to use extension fittings to align the tubing runs. At least wiith EK blocks they spacing is always in 5mm increments, so 5mm 10mm 15mm extensions help. Not sure what blocks you have Map.
> I've done some complex motherboard/CPU block installs with soft tubing but it's a *lot* more difficult to get the spacing compatible and do the actual tubing up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What makes it a lot easier is to just use angled fittings and allow the tubes to arc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How I did mine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...6C0E3CF2-91AA-4127-975B-8168AD4DCF9D.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Nice!


----------



## BrjSan

Hello all, just went through this thread, and it is full of awesome builds, so, i wanted to post mine.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Hello all, just went through this thread, and it is full of awesome builds, so, i wanted to post mine.


Nice work, one of the best uses of green coolant I've seen in a long while


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Hello all, just went through this thread, and it is full of awesome builds, so, i wanted to post mine.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like you could easily slap a 480mm Rad (About 45mm Thickness) on the Roof!

TCO


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Are there any acrylic/petg bending pro's in the mid/north east? New Jersey, Maryland, Virginia Delaware area?

I am trying to finish 3 runs and I Keep getting it wrong. Really wrong, lol. I could use a hand and will gladly bring my system and parts to the person or compensate for help coming to me. I just need to know what would be best for whomever helps.

I have burnt through probably 5 lengths of acrylic trying to figure out the correct bends, and always have them off angle or too short.

I have also tried to use the tons of petg tubing I purchased, and the Silicon cord won't fit into the tube very far at all.. Just my luck, lol. I have 18 lengths of petg left, and I need to get more acrylic.


----------



## JLMS2010

I'm in VA, near Washington, DC. Sent you a PM


----------



## TGBM

Thought I would post my first ever watercooled build here as I have another one in the works which you can find the build log for here let me know what you think of both!




Before during and after filling the loop.



Better view of the pass through I did in the PSU cover plate.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I'm in VA, near Washington, DC. Sent you a PM


Sent you one back.. You are very close actually! Thank you so much.


----------



## JLMS2010

Anytime!


----------



## DarthBaggins

hmmm VA near DC, my guess is Arlington area or one of the surrounding suburbs/cities


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Thought I would post my first ever watercooled build here as I have another one in the works which you can find the build log for here let me know what you think of both!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before during and after filling the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better view of the pass through I did in the PSU cover plate.


Mad props Bruv, this spanks the monstrosity I created for my first loop


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Mad props Bruv, this spanks the monstrosity I created for my first loop


My thoughts were go big or go home







I'm trying to go even bigger with my newest build here got all fingers crossed it comes out how I want it to!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah very nice work for a first lc. Few people start with hard tubing and plenty only do their CPUs at first too.


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Nice work, one of the best uses of green coolant I've seen in a long while


Thanks









I never thought the light would effect the look that much, but it really does.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah very nice work for a first lc. Few people start with hard tubing and plenty only do their CPUs at first too.


I love a challenge! Saying that my new build is proving to be one!


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Looks like you could easily slap a 480mm Rad (About 45mm Thickness) on the Roof!
> 
> TCO


Sure, may be after i gather some money, since after currently, i am broke literary .....









Thanks for the feed any way.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Sure, may be after i gather some money, since after currently, i am broke literary .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feed any way.


Ahh the feeling of being broke but so many wanted parts


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Thought I would post my first ever watercooled build here as I have another one in the works which you can find the build log for here let me know what you think of both!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before during and after filling the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Better view of the pass through I did in the PSU cover plate.


Nice!looks like my first watercooled build great runs! Looking sharp!!!


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Nice!looks like my first watercooled build great runs! Looking sharp!!!


Thank you







Really happy with it had no issues so far!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Ahh the feeling of being broke but so many wanted parts


Now you are truly one of us.









Well, obviously not all up in here are *broke*, as it were. Sponsorships and industry connections and the like can help too, of course.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Now you are truly one of us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, obviously not all up in here are *broke*, as it were. Sponsorships and industry connections and the like can help too, of course.


What sponsors? They Never call me









Easily would love a free Radiator or Waterblock.

The S3 I am planning out is getting expensive









TCO


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never thought the light would effect the look that much, but it really does.


You would laugh at my obscene first loop


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What sponsors? They Never call me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easily would love a free Radiator or Waterblock.


You're asking the wrong guy lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You're asking the wrong guy lol


All good. I make the cash to build computers as a hobby I've grown to love and enjoy. That's what matters.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Sure, may be after i gather some money, since after currently, i am broke literary .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feed any way.
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh the feeling of being broke but so many wanted parts
Click to expand...

I would rather get chucked in my gentleman bits than have that feeling.


















~Ceadder


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would rather get chucked in my gentleman bits than have that feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think we all would but alas we seem to feel it so far to often


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> All good. I make the cash to build computers as a hobby I've grown to love and enjoy. That's what matters.
> 
> TCO


I would join my vote too, when you finish the project, you are satisfied and the end product is nice and people cheer you up ... it pays off at the end.

Talking about sponsorship, i ve read one article on such thing but cant really remember where i can find it, they guy went through this in great details .... if i could find it again i would put the link ... but what i could understand from it is : *IT IS FREAKING HARD TO GET ONE*, and *the place where you live plays* a big effect on it.

As TheCautiousOne, build for joy and for the hobby, and the taste of accomplishment is way too different when it is your own money.

_Sorry: no intentions to deviate the post, but just came to my mind. (am new here)







_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> You would laugh at my obscene first loop biggrin.gif


Any photos for your first project, or is it dead buried?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I would join my vote too, when you finish the project, you are satisfied and the end product is nice and people cheer you up ... it pays off at the end.
> 
> Talking about sponsorship, i ve read one article on such thing but cant really remember where i can find it, they guy went through this in great details .... if i could find it again i would put the link ... but what i could understand from it is : *IT IS FREAKING HARD TO GET ONE*, and *the place where you live plays* a big effect on it.
> 
> As TheCautiousOne, build for joy and for the hobby, and the taste of accomplishment is way too different when it is your own money.
> 
> _Sorry: no intentions to deviate the post, but just came to my mind. (am new here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> 
> 
> Any photos for your first project, or is it dead buried?


I'll have to dig them up









Behold.........


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I'll have to dig them up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behold.........


What case is that? Looks nice tho!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> What case is that? Looks nice tho!


It's the original Haf-X with all the crappy plastic panels removed, my current build still resides in it


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> *IT IS FREAKING HARD TO GET ONE*, and *the place where you live plays* a big effect on it.


Yeah probably accessibility to some larger established LANs and OC events and trade shows and such.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> It's the original Haf-X with all the crappy plastic panels removed, my current build still resides in it


I'm thinking of getting an old case and doing some major mods in it.


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I'll have to dig them up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behold.........


That is hell of a RES


----------



## TGBM

O wow I didn't even notice how huge that is! 10/10 would recommend to a friend!


----------



## Yianni89

It started out like this....



it went on a machine and this happened....



then Tim @DiamondCooling bought some sand paper and started doing this...



After a little while it was almost transparent...



And then.....






and just to show off Tim then did this....



Thank you @DiamondCooling for the perfection that will soon arrive at my door! Superb job!


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> It started out like this....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it went on a machine and this happened....
> 
> 
> 
> then Tim @DiamondCooling bought some sand paper and started doing this...
> 
> 
> 
> After a little while it was almost transparent...
> 
> 
> 
> And then.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and just to show off Tim then did this....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you @DiamondCooling for the perfection that will soon arrive at my door! Superb job!


Wow.... just wow speachless!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> I would join my vote too, when you finish the project, you are satisfied and the end product is nice and people cheer you up ... it pays off at the end.
> 
> Talking about sponsorship, i ve read one article on such thing but cant really remember where i can find it, they guy went through this in great details .... if i could find it again i would put the link ... but what i could understand from it is : *IT IS FREAKING HARD TO GET ONE*, and *the place where you live plays* a big effect on it.
> 
> As TheCautiousOne, build for joy and for the hobby, and the taste of accomplishment is way too different when it is your own money.
> 
> _Sorry: no intentions to deviate the post, but just came to my mind. (am new here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> Any photos for your first project, or is it dead buried?


Too many rules about linking for me to remember what's allowed but the article is on a certain site. begins with "bit" blah blah EKWB rules, Bitspower, I love OCN. ends with "tech". Good it with "how to get a sponsor".


----------



## snef

did some test with logo,

ordered Chrome and brushed aluminum


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I got my loop completely built finally. Now I just have to figure out the heck to fill it. I don't even have enough space to fit a tiny funnel into the fill port of my tube res. Where do they sell these squeeze bottles I see people using to fill with the straw that can fit in tight space?


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I got my loop completely built finally. Now I just have to figure out the heck to fill it. I don't even have enough space to fit a tiny funnel into the fill port of my tube res. Where do they sell these squeeze bottles I see people using to fill with the straw that can fit in tight space?


I had this with my build what I did is I went out and bought a syringe and filled it up that way by removing one of the plugs at the top of the reservoir.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> That is hell of a RES


a res to the moon hahah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> This is my watercooled rig. I admit it's not aesthetically appealing & probably an eyesore to most people but it look gorgeous to me & that is all that matters.


someone is watching to much Blade!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> did some test with logo,
> 
> ordered Chrome and brushed aluminum


so one for mosfet and other?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> It's the original Haf-X with all the crappy plastic panels removed, my current build still resides in it


Hehe, I'm still rocking a original Haf-X, but when ever I get all the mods done it sure going to be interesting especially once I figure out how I am going to smack that 915F to its bottom.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I got my loop completely built finally. Now I just have to figure out the heck to fill it. I don't even have enough space to fit a tiny funnel into the fill port of my tube res. Where do they sell these squeeze bottles I see people using to fill with the straw that can fit in tight space?


ITs a phobia 500ml on Performance PCs

TCO


----------



## wermad

Update for little new rig


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I got my loop completely built finally. Now I just have to figure out the heck to fill it. I don't even have enough space to fit a tiny funnel into the fill port of my tube res. Where do they sell these squeeze bottles I see people using to fill with the straw that can fit in tight space?


What? You mean you don't have a professional-looking fill port using expensive fittings installed in a hole you carefully drilled up top on your case? Yeah me neither. Things like this is why I will never use another bay res and I make sure my tube is accessible. Easier said than done sometimes, of course.

Look at a sporting goods store for those squeeze bottles or Amazon, I guess.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I got my loop completely built finally. Now I just have to figure out the heck to fill it. I don't even have enough space to fit a tiny funnel into the fill port of my tube res. Where do they sell these squeeze bottles I see people using to fill with the straw that can fit in tight space?


You can always siphon it into the res using some tubing from a hardware store. I did it prior to installing a fill port.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> I had this with my build what I did is I went out and bought a syringe and filled it up that way by removing one of the plugs at the top of the reservoir.


Would have to be an awfully small syringe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> ITs a phobia 500ml on Performance PCs
> 
> TCO


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> What? You mean you don't have a professional-looking fill port using expensive fittings installed in a hole you carefully drilled up top on your case? Yeah me neither. Things like this is why I will never use another bay res and I make sure my tube is accessible. Easier said than done sometimes, of course.
> 
> Look at a sporting goods store for those squeeze bottles or Amazon, I guess.


Well I can't exactly drill a hole on top of the case as the entire top is being taken by a 420mm radiator. There is literally no room left up there to get into the tube res fill port.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> You can always siphon it into the res using some tubing from a hardware store. I did it prior to installing a fill port.


What kind of tubing? Sounds like a recipe for a mess.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> a res to the moon hahah
> someone is watching to much Blade!
> so one for mosfet and other?


looks like two memory blocks to me


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Would have to be an awfully small syringe.
> Thanks
> Well I can't exactly drill a hole on top of the case as the entire top is being taken by a 420mm radiator. There is literally no room left up there to get into the tube res fill port.
> What kind of tubing? Sounds like a recipe for a mess.


Easy way to fill it would be to place a temporary fitting on a port on the top of the reservoir and then put a soft tube there and a funnel on the end. That way you fill the loop and bleed and when you are done you just take the fitting and tube out and cap the reservoir.







Take a shot of your loop/reservoir so we can take a look. Another quite useful way to fill a system is if you have multi-port rads on top of the case. That way you can feel the whole loop using one of the top facing ports.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> What kind of tubing? Sounds like a recipe for a mess.


I bought some Clear tubing from Lowe's. Just get a diameter that will fit in the fill port. I didn't have any issues.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Easy way to fill it would be to place a temporary fitting on a port on the top of the reservoir and then put a soft tube there and a funnel on the end. That way you fill the loop and bleed and when you are done you just take the fitting and tube out and cap the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take a shot of your loop/reservoir so we can take a look. Another quite useful way to fill a system is if you have multi-port rads on top of the case. That way you can feel the whole loop using one of the top facing ports.


Yep I definitely thought of that method, that was how I was told to fill my H240x by the Swiftech rep, however I also remember that being a big mess as air would get in the tube and water would leak out of the tube if you didn't shake it to get the air out. That's the reason why I didn't try it.

Here's some pictures of the res and it's clearance



It is a multi-port top.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yep I definitely thought of that method, that was how I was told to fill my H240x by the Swiftech rep, however I also remember that being a big mess as air would get in the tube and water would leak out of the tube if you didn't shake it to get the air out. That's the reason why I didn't try it.
> 
> Here's some pictures of the res and it's clearance
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a multi-port top.


You got miles compared to me.



I am using the Bottle I linked.




500ml Phobia All day

The Cautious One


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You got miles compared to me.
> 
> 500ml Phobia All day
> 
> The Cautious One


Yeah I'm definitely going to buy one of those to keep on hand. I've got a friend who wants to do a full loop in about a month so it should come in handy there and for the next draining/filling. However PPCs want like $25 for next day air so I really need to figure something out to get this thing filled without waiting 2 more days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> I bought some Clear tubing from Lowe's. Just get a diameter that will fit in the fill port. I didn't have any issues.


I may go ahead and try this tomorrow.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yep I definitely thought of that method, that was how I was told to fill my H240x by the Swiftech rep, however I also remember that being a big mess as air would get in the tube and water would leak out of the tube if you didn't shake it to get the air out. That's the reason why I didn't try it.
> 
> Here's some pictures of the res and it's clearance
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a multi-port top.


use that extra port on top for it, it will be just fine and a lot easier that with the h240x I think.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> so one for mosfet and other?


nope, 2 are Ram block, on X99M-Gaming5, only 4 ram (2 x 2)


----------



## Trestles126

Got this rog sli bridge today not sure if I'm that big of a fan lil big... But well see how it looks in the end. Side note I've read that it doesn't matter which side you connect ur sli bridge to? I notice there are 2 connections each card

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...F6260191-3F41-47C3-8BB9-476468E58B44.jpg.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Got this rog sli bridge today not sure if I'm that big of a fan lil big... But well see how it looks in the end. *Side note I've read that it doesn't matter which side you connect ur sli bridge to? I notice there are 2 connections each card*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...F6260191-3F41-47C3-8BB9-476468E58B44.jpg.html


It matters not. For looks I suppose.

TCO


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> use that extra port on top for it, it will be just fine and a lot easier that with the h240x I think.


Well I went ahead and tried it. Worked nicely, but I had an immediate leak out of the bottom of the reservoir. I think in my attempt to not crack the res by over tightening, I under tightened the bottom of the res with the o-ring.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> That is hell of a RES


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> O wow I didn't even notice how huge that is! 10/10 would recommend to a friend!


Yeah, I ordered the 250 versiopn from FCPU back in the day, then this one arrived


----------



## electro2u

Do folks with acrylic tubing have to top off? My tiny bay res is slowly starting to need topping off after 2 months. Maybe its just the last of the air left in the system displaced it?


----------



## Ceadderman

All systems need topping off unless they are thermetically sealed. Since you cannot build a completely sealed loop... long story short; Yes you will need to top off from time to time.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Hermetically sealed means air tight. People are using air preasure to leak test. System is ideally air tight. Seems like evaporation?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hermetically sealed means air tight. People are using air preasure to leak test. System is ideally air tight. Seems like evaporation?


Yes it is evaporation. Airtight doesn't mean that evaporation fails to occur.
Case in point tires, athletic equipment and the like. You have to fill them occasionally with air don't you? Yet they are considered "airtight" correct?

So there you go. Osmosis works even when you think there is no chance with an airtight loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes it is evaporation. Airtight doesn't mean that evaporation fails to occur.
> Case in point tires, athletic equipment and the like. You have to fill them occasionally with air don't you? Yet they are considered "airtight" correct?
> 
> So there you go. Osmosis works even when you think there is no chance with an airtight loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I found that my acrylic tube system hasn't dropped in level yet and it has been running for around 10 hours a day as its connected to my server. I will have to keep an eye on it to make sure that it is still at that level over the next few months.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Do folks with acrylic tubing have to top off? My tiny bay res is slowly starting to need topping off after 2 months. Maybe its just the last of the air left in the system displaced it?


As a rule,no we don't,only traditional tube needs to have its levels watched. Traditional tube has a low level of loss,acrylic doesn't share this trait.

Now its my turn for a question for a change,the PWM D5 when not connected to a PWM source runs at 100 or 60%? Can't remember for the life of me which it is.....


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As a rule,no we don't,only traditional tube needs to have its levels watched. Traditional tube has a low level of loss,acrylic doesn't share this trait.
> 
> Now its my turn for a question for a change,the PWM D5 when not connected to a PWM source runs at 100 or 60%? Can't remember for the life of me which it is.....


I have a feeling its 60% but I could be wrong I did a test with my spare PWM pump a while ago as I was curious as well.


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You got miles compared to me.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using the Bottle I linked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 500ml Phobia All day
> 
> The Cautious One


Awesome job, the two colors also goes well together, tubing is neat, cabling is awesome, i went through your youtube videos .... really nice project, have you put it in a build log?







if yes, link plz.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As a rule,no we don't,only traditional tube needs to have its levels watched. Traditional tube has a low level of loss,acrylic doesn't share this trait.
> 
> Now its my turn for a question for a change,the PWM D5 when not connected to a PWM source runs at 100 or 60%? Can't remember for the life of me which it is.....


Yeah B. 60% Mate








from Martin
"I expected this pump to operate at 100% when the PWM cable is disconnected (that is how the MCP 35X works), however this pump does not do that. Rather than operate at 100%, it operates closer to 60% when the PWM cable is not in use. This could be good or bad depending on what your noise preference is. I find 60% to be a good balance myself."

Noticed that Bitspower released the Leviathon slim rads a month ago.
Not sure if anyone else noticed.
Looks like they licenced from HWLabs with a hybrid of the Nemesis 360GTS and SR2











Nemesis GTS


SR2


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yeah B. 60% Mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noticed that Bitspower released the Leviathon slim rads a month ago.
> Not sure if anyone else noticed.
> Looks like they licenced from HWLabs with a hybrid of the Nemesis 360GTS and SR2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nemesis GTS
> 
> 
> SR2


Very nice radiators defiantly want to pick some up they look amazing!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Awesome job, the two colors also goes well together, tubing is neat, cabling is awesome, i went through your youtube videos .... really nice project, have you put it in a build log?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if yes, link plz.


Ninja'd TCO. Youll realize it after you post








http://www.overclock.net/t/1534836/build-log-caselabs-sma8-gunmetal-white-two-tone-2011-v3-socket-the-division-complete


----------



## fast_fate

Congrats gh










reddit watercooling rig of the month


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Congrats gh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> reddit watercooling rig of the month
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Such a clean looking build! Congratulations to GH again


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Update for little new rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


CL TX10D with Pedestal?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As a rule,no we don't,only traditional tube needs to have its levels watched. Traditional tube has a low level of loss,acrylic doesn't share this trait.
> 
> Now its my turn for a question for a change,the PWM D5 when not connected to a PWM source runs at 100 or 60%? Can't remember for the life of me which it is.....
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah B. 60% Mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from Martin
> "I expected this pump to operate at 100% when the PWM cable is disconnected (that is how the MCP 35X works), however this pump does not do that. Rather than operate at 100%, it operates closer to 60% when the PWM cable is not in use. This could be good or bad depending on what your noise preference is. I find 60% to be a good balance myself."
> 
> Noticed that Bitspower released the Leviathon slim rads a month ago.
> Not sure if anyone else noticed.
> Looks like they licenced from HWLabs with a hybrid of the Nemesis 360GTS and SR2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nemesis GTS
> 
> 
> SR2
Click to expand...

That's explains a lot....turns out the temps for the fully parallel loop for HeretEK are at 60% pump speed rather than flat out. I will plug it in and see what difference it makes.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That's explains a lot....turns out the temps for the fully parallel loop for HeretEK are at 60% pump speed rather than flat out. I will plug it in and see what difference it makes.


interesting results, i want to see it. my loop might be not restrictive at all but i got not difference between 3 and 5 speed on my non pwm d5 pump.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That's explains a lot....turns out the temps for the fully parallel loop for HeretEK are at 60% pump speed rather than flat out. I will plug it in and see what difference it makes.


Don't expect temps to improve significantly though B.
Flow rate doesn't really effect performance much on the PE.
These are Push/Pull comparison for flow rate performance.



and 1.0gpm Push Only vs Push/Pull


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Congrats gh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> reddit watercooling rig of the month
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Such a clean looking build! Congratulations to GH again


Thanks gents. Means a lot. I'll post the interview with NVIDIA once it gets published.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> I had this with my build what I did is I went out and bought a syringe and filled it up that way by removing one of the plugs at the top of the reservoir.


Primochill sells a syringe. And than what I did was grab vinyal tubing from Home Depot want to say it was 1/4. Connected it and used a wire tie to help secure. This made it so I could for it through a tight area and right into the top if my res. also worked well when drain to suck out the excess fluid from the bottom rad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That's explains a lot....turns out the temps for the fully parallel loop for HeretEK are at 60% pump speed rather than flat out. I will plug it in and see what difference it makes.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't expect temps to improve significantly though B.
> Flow rate doesn't really effect performance much on the PE.
> These are Push/Pull comparison for flow rate performance.
> 
> 
> 
> and 1.0gpm Push Only vs Push/Pull
Click to expand...

Its not rad performance im interested in,its getting more flow to the CPU block,its not even shifted those little klingon bubbles from dust out...flow is severely low thru it.


----------



## fast_fate

gotcha


----------



## guitarhero23

Posted this over in the CaseLabs thread but posting here for visibility....

Mixed feelings about this:

(Source, CaseLabs FB)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaseLabs*
> 
> Changes in the Lab&#8230;
> Over the last 2 years we have seen our shipping ETAs climb and climb. This is good because it means we have continued to grow, but at the same time, we realize the need to do something to counteract it. The only way to do this is to either buy hundreds of thousands of dollars' worth of manufacturing equipment (not an option right now), or we can simplify things to better streamline production. With that being said the following changes will be taking place:
> 
> 1. It is with deep regret that the NOVA X2 and X5 have been shelved indefinitely. We can't in good conscience release new cases when we can't already make what we have orders for. This is just a simple fact and we apologize for anyone who has been waiting to order one. The X2M will continue to be available. This will also allow us to move to a new design platform more quickly and speed up future product development.
> 2. We will be TEMPORARILY discontinuing the White, Gunmetal, Primer and Two Tone case colors at the end of this month (June 2015). We hope that that will give enough time for people who have already made their build plans for a specific color to get their case ordered. Custom case colors, as in "custom powder coating", will also continue to be temporally suspended. It is with every intention to bring these colors back, but we do not have an ETA at this time. Of course accessories and replacement parts will still be available for ordering throughout this time.
> 3. XL window door options on the TH10A, STH10 and SMA8 will no longer be an option. As well as the MB ventilated door for the STH10 and SMA8.
> 4. Open fan hole PCI back-plates will no longer be an option.
> 
> These decisions were difficult and not taken lightly. Our primary concern has always been customer service and we felt that the long shipping times had become a service issue. We hope that everyone will understand why we came to these decisions. We never would have imagined several years ago that it would take as long as it does for us to fulfill orders (5-7 weeks). For the record, it does not 5-7 weeks to manufacture a single case. The 5-7 weeks is more like a waiting list.
> Thank you for your continued support!


The taking away of the color options is the worst to me...Can't have a white build in a black case. Glad I didn't wait until the end of the year to build my computer like I originally planned.


----------



## snef

I dont know what D5 pwm pump Martinlab used for test but i installed and use 3 x D5 pwm ,1 EK and 2 Darkside (all the same)
And no, never, they are not at 60%, its more around 10 or 20%,( hard to say, they are not connected)
One thing is sure just enough to fill a simple loop very very slowly,
If you have air buble in tubing or block, the pump is not able to remove it, i simply connect to any fan header and the coolant disapear from res in less tha 3 seconde, and all air bubble disapear


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> CL TX10D with Pedestal?










it's grotesquely huge (in a good way







). Had to shift furniture to make room for it







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I dont know what D5 pwm pump Martinlab used for test but i installed and use 3 x D5 pwm ,1 EK and 2 Darkside (all the same)
> And no, never, they are not at 60%, its more around 10 or 20%,( hard to say, they are not connected)
> One thing is sure just enough to fill a simple loop very very slowly,
> If you have air buble in tubing or block, the pump is not able to remove it, i simply connect to any fan header and the coolant disapear from res in less tha 3 seconde, and all air bubble disapear


Do you have any hard data on that? My understanding is that 60% or 100% (depending on pump) is the 'base' speed for a non connected PWM D5,not 10 or 20%.]

Im pretty certain Darlene did the leg work on that. I just couldnt remember if it was 60 or 100% for the D5 PWM.


----------



## wermad

I recall diva said 60% d5 and 100% ddc.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I dont know what D5 pwm pump Martinlab used for test but i installed and use 3 x D5 pwm ,1 EK and 2 Darkside (all the same)
> And no, never, they are not at 60%, its more around 10 or 20%,( hard to say, they are not connected)
> One thing is sure just enough to fill a simple loop very very slowly,
> If you have air buble in tubing or block, the pump is not able to remove it, i simply connect to any fan header and the coolant disapear from res in less tha 3 seconde, and all air bubble disapear


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you have any hard data on that? My understanding is that 60% or 100% (depending on pump) is the 'base' speed for a non connected PWM D5,not 10 or 20%.]
> 
> Im pretty certain Darlene did the leg work on that. I just couldnt remember if it was 60 or 100% for the D5 PWM.


All d5 PWM (Ek, xspc, etc) so far as I known are Laing / Xylem original design and therefore run at 60% if not connected to the fan header. The only one different is the Aquacomputer PWM D5 which will run at 100% because the pwm was modified in house to comply with intel specs. It is one of the cheapest too these days at only ~US$ 62 and is compatible with Aquaero while the others are not...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's grotesquely huge (in a good way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Had to shift furniture to make room for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Hahahaha







How many radiators are you going to squeeze into that case? And more importantly, which components are you going to stuff into it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Hahahaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many radiators are you going to squeeze into that case? And more importantly, which components are you going to stuff into it?


6x monsta 480s, 2x monsta 560s, current rig and a simple desktop for the family. I'm hoping my little one catches the pc gaming bug and I'll convert that simple setup into a starter gaming/family-pc.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 6x monsta 480s, 2x monsta 560s, current rig and a simple desktop for the family. I'm hoping my little one catches the pc gaming bug and I'll convert that simple setup into a starter gaming/family-pc.


You sir are defiantly mad but in a very good way!


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 6x monsta 480s, 2x monsta 560s, current rig and a simple desktop for the family. I'm hoping my little one catches the pc gaming bug and I'll convert that simple setup into a starter gaming/family-pc.


Minecraft, cube world , any of the Lego franchise will get that ball rolling... My little one started with spore...now there's iPads,PS3 ,3ds, smart phones etc...but he always ends up on a pc specially for fps lan goodness.... Build it and they will come ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> You sir are defiantly mad but in a very good way!


Ty







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> Minecraft, cube world , any of the Lego franchise will get that ball rolling... My little one started with spore...now there's iPads,PS3 ,3ds, smart phones etc...but he always ends up on a pc specially for fps lan goodness.... Build it and they will come ?


She's been using a tablet since 2 and my 2 y/o since 1. I got her to play a bit of portal and portal 2 along with a few fps. She's very excited, more so then our old PS3 and wii. The wii was fun but she runs around enough at school that she don't really need it anymore.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 6x monsta 480s, 2x monsta 560s, current rig and a simple desktop for the family. I'm hoping my little one catches the pc gaming bug and I'll convert that simple setup into a starter gaming/family-pc.


You do like those Monsta's, I sold mine a while ago. I will have trouble getting my three 480s and one 420 to get hot either way.









I can't wait till you start filling it up though, build log aquired.









"Simple desktop" easily turns into four GPUs with the room for both multiple PSUs and GPUs.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> You do like those Monsta's, I sold mine a while ago. I will have trouble getting my three 480s and one 420 to get hot either way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait till you start filling it up though, build log aquired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Simple desktop" easily turns into four GPUs with the room for both multiple PSUs and GPUs.


+1 to that!!


----------



## snef

no don't have anything and if what I saw is 60% its not enough to run a loop,, and a 3 pump was the exact same


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> You do like those Monsta's, I sold mine a while ago. I will have trouble getting my three 480s and one 420 to get hot either way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait till you start filling it up though, build log aquired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Simple desktop" easily turns into four GPUs with the room for both multiple PSUs and GPUs.


I didn't expect to get this beast and it was hard to pass up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> +1 to that!!


Monsta luv









Hey, if you have the space, run em I say


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> no don't have anything and if what I saw is 60% its not enough to run a loop,, and a 3 pump was the exact same


I just had mine pegged at 100%...the results were not good as the return feed is right on the water line,turned the res into a foam bath.

Until I cut a hole for the top port thats mashed up against the rear panel to really top the res off,2700 is my limit.

Very,_very_ high flow now


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hey, if you have the space, run em I say


Amen to that! Sadly with my current build space is limited so sadly no monsta for me


----------



## Fantasy

So I want to share my experience with water cooling so far. I started my own custom water cooling loop the same time X79 was first released. So almost 3 and half years ago.

I bought 1xEk 240XT rad and 1x120 XTX rad with the R4E water block and an EK-Supreme HF. When I got all my gear ready to be assembled, I discovered that the EK-Supreme HF block did not come with LGA 2011 mounting hardware because at the time X79 was very new. So the only way I could install the CPU block was to buy the LGA 2011 mounting hardware from EK. However at the time I was in a rush to get my PC setup and ready because I had a big project that I had to finish to graduate college. So I remembered that when I bought the R4E It had a feature where you can install your old LGA 1366 cooler without needing any mounting for LGA 2011. All I had to do is install their "X bracket" that is backward compatible with older coolers. So I did that and I got my PC up and running.

At first I thought my temps were great. However after doing some research I found out that people who had a Corsair H100 had temps that are 10-15C lower than mine. At the time I got so frustrated because here I spent over $600 on this custom loop and a guy who had a $100 cooler had way better temps than me. So I thought "I don't even care. I bought this gear now and I can't do anything about it. Whatever, I will just have to live with it".

My idle temps at 4.8GHz (with my 3930k) were around 60C and max temps were 88C (that's where my cpu would throttle to protect the overheating VRMs). I hated my new machine. But then I thought I must be doing something horribly wrong and I knew what it is but I didn't want to admit it. So I asked around for help and everyone would say reset your block, check your water flow etc... but none of those things helped because I knew that my CPU block is not LGA 2011 compatible and the mounting mechanism I used were bad. So I stopped caring, down clocked my CPU to 4.0GHz and moved on with my life.

Fast forward to last week, I decided to rebuild my loop with a brand new block, a GTX 970 and an extra rad. And this time I was going to do it right. (Buy the god damn right mounting mechanism. You would think that would be common sense but I guess not







). I couldn't wait any longer for AMD to release their new GPU so I thought "what the hell, lets go Nvidia for once", So I ordered my new gear. I got the new Ek-supremacy Evo, with the EK-CoolStream XE 120 and the EK-FC970 GTX WF3 - Acetal+Nickel and Backplate. I got few 90° and 45° fitting (because I just discovered them recently







) and I got to work. Today I finished my second ever loop, and the temps of the loop is absolute amazing (like a custom water loop should have).

So moral of the story is I'm a newbie and I had to learn that after wasting so much time, money and energy.

*Tldr;
Old build sucked because I'm a newbie, new build is awesome and I learned things the hard way.
*

I bought the wrong fans for the rads
I bought a waterblock with the wrong mounting mechanism and was too lazy to order the right ones.



Spoiler: Here are my old temps @ 4.8GHz (3930k)



*Idle:-*


*Max:-*






Spoiler: And here are my temps after the rebuild @ 4.8GHz (3930K)



*Idle:-*


*Max:-*






Spoiler: Old build pictures.










Spoiler: New build pictures (not done completely)





















Btw my camera sucks, The lighting and coolant color looks so much better in person. Its looks absolute amazing. The camera i'm using is just terrible.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well, the countdown to PDXLan 265 has officially begun. And thanks to Bneg(you sly dog you) I've already made a change of parts for my mod. Instead of HWLabs for my vertical 360s, I am going with EK PEs due to their ability to be broken down and painted. Only wish EK had a XFlow PE radiator. So HWLabs will likely still be represented in the top of Darkside.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I want to share my experience with water cooling so far. I started my own custom water cooling loop the same time X79 was first released. So almost 3 and half years ago.
> 
> I bought 1xEk 240XT rad and 1x120 XTX rad with the R4E water block and an EK-Supreme HF. When I got all my gear ready to be assembled, I discovered that the EK-Supreme HF block did not come with LGA 2011 mounting hardware because at the time X79 was very new. So the only way I could install the CPU block was to buy the LGA 2011 mounting hardware from EK. However at the time I was in a rush to get my PC setup and ready because I had a big project that I had to finish to graduate college. So I remembered that when I bought the R4E It had a feature where you can install your old LGA 1366 cooler without needing any mounting for LGA 2011. All I had to do is install their "X bracket" that is backward compatible with older coolers. So I did that and I got my PC up and running.
> 
> At first I thought my temps were great. However after doing some research I found out that people who had a Corsair H100 had temps that are 10-15C lower than mine. At the time I got so frustrated because here I spent over $600 on this custom loop and a guy who had a $100 cooler had way better temps than me. So I thought "I don't even care. I bought this gear now and I can't do anything about it. Whatever, I will just have to live with it".
> 
> My idle temps at 4.8GHz (with my 3930k) were around 60C and max temps were 88C (that's where my cpu would throttle to protect the overheating VRMs). I hated my new machine. But then I thought I must be doing something horribly wrong and I knew what it is but I didn't want to admit it. So I asked around for help and everyone would say reset your block, check your water flow etc... but none of those things helped because I knew that my CPU block is not LGA 2011 compatible and the mounting mechanism I used were bad. So I stopped caring, down clocked my CPU to 4.0GHz and moved on with my life.
> 
> Fast forward to last week, I decided to rebuild my loop with a brand new block, a GTX 970 and an extra rad. And this time I was going to do it right. (Buy the god damn right mounting mechanism. You would think that would be common sense but I guess not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I couldn't wait any longer for AMD to release their new GPU so I thought "what the hell, lets go Nvidia for once", So I ordered my new gear. I got the new Ek-supremacy Evo, with the EK-CoolStream XE 120 and the EK-FC970 GTX WF3 - Acetal+Nickel and Backplate. I got few 90° and 45° fitting (because I just discovered them recently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I got to work. Today I finished my second ever loop, and the temps of the loop is absolute amazing (like a custom water loop should have).
> 
> So moral of the story is I'm a newbie and I had to learn that after wasting so much time, money and energy.
> 
> *Tldr;
> Old build sucked because I'm a newbie, new build is awesome and I learned things the hard way.
> *
> 
> I bought the wrong fans for the rads
> I bought a waterblock with the wrong mounting mechanism and was too lazy to order the right ones.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here are my old temps @ 4.8GHz (3930k)
> 
> 
> 
> *Idle:-*
> 
> 
> *Max:-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: And here are my temps after the rebuild @ 4.8GHz (3930K)
> 
> 
> 
> *Idle:-*
> 
> 
> *Max:-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Old build pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: New build pictures (not done completely)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw my camera sucks, The lighting and coolant color looks so much better in person. Its looks absolute amazing. The camera i'm using is just terrible.


Everything so cramped in there. Time for a new case!


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> So I want to share my experience with water cooling so far. I started my own custom water cooling loop the same time X79 was first released. So almost 3 and half years ago.
> 
> I bought 1xEk 240XT rad and 1x120 XTX rad with the R4E water block and an EK-Supreme HF. When I got all my gear ready to be assembled, I discovered that the EK-Supreme HF block did not come with LGA 2011 mounting hardware because at the time X79 was very new. So the only way I could install the CPU block was to buy the LGA 2011 mounting hardware from EK. However at the time I was in a rush to get my PC setup and ready because I had a big project that I had to finish to graduate college. So I remembered that when I bought the R4E It had a feature where you can install your old LGA 1366 cooler without needing any mounting for LGA 2011. All I had to do is install their "X bracket" that is backward compatible with older coolers. So I did that and I got my PC up and running.
> 
> At first I thought my temps were great. However after doing some research I found out that people who had a Corsair H100 had temps that are 10-15C lower than mine. At the time I got so frustrated because here I spent over $600 on this custom loop and a guy who had a $100 cooler had way better temps than me. So I thought "I don't even care. I bought this gear now and I can't do anything about it. Whatever, I will just have to live with it".
> 
> My idle temps at 4.8GHz (with my 3930k) were around 60C and max temps were 88C (that's where my cpu would throttle to protect the overheating VRMs). I hated my new machine. But then I thought I must be doing something horribly wrong and I knew what it is but I didn't want to admit it. So I asked around for help and everyone would say reset your block, check your water flow etc... but none of those things helped because I knew that my CPU block is not LGA 2011 compatible and the mounting mechanism I used were bad. So I stopped caring, down clocked my CPU to 4.0GHz and moved on with my life.
> 
> Fast forward to last week, I decided to rebuild my loop with a brand new block, a GTX 970 and an extra rad. And this time I was going to do it right. (Buy the god damn right mounting mechanism. You would think that would be common sense but I guess not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I couldn't wait any longer for AMD to release their new GPU so I thought "what the hell, lets go Nvidia for once", So I ordered my new gear. I got the new Ek-supremacy Evo, with the EK-CoolStream XE 120 and the EK-FC970 GTX WF3 - Acetal+Nickel and Backplate. I got few 90° and 45° fitting (because I just discovered them recently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I got to work. Today I finished my second ever loop, and the temps of the loop is absolute amazing (like a custom water loop should have).
> 
> So moral of the story is I'm a newbie and I had to learn that after wasting so much time, money and energy.
> 
> *Tldr;
> Old build sucked because I'm a newbie, new build is awesome and I learned things the hard way.
> *
> 
> I bought the wrong fans for the rads
> I bought a waterblock with the wrong mounting mechanism and was too lazy to order the right ones.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here are my old temps @ 4.8GHz (3930k)
> 
> 
> 
> *Idle:-*
> 
> 
> *Max:-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: And here are my temps after the rebuild @ 4.8GHz (3930K)
> 
> 
> 
> *Idle:-*
> 
> 
> *Max:-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Old build pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: New build pictures (not done completely)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw my camera sucks, The lighting and coolant color looks so much better in person. Its looks absolute amazing. The camera i'm using is just terrible.


Good stuff and better temps overall. But I think it's time you moved into a bigger better watercooling case if your wallet allows it. It would allow for shorter tubing runs and temps overall.


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Everything so cramped in there. Time for a new case!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Good stuff and better temps overall. But I think it's time you moved into a bigger better watercooling case if your wallet allows it. It would allow for shorter tubing runs and temps overall.


Yeah, I was planning to buy the 900D but I just couldn't afford to buy $380 case. It was either stay with my 6970 and get the 900D or get a GTX 970 and stay with the same case. Ultimately I had to get a new graphics card because the 6970 is barley giving me 40FPS with most modern games.

Recently I fell in love with the Corsair 540 air. It looks absolutely amazing. It is the perfect case for me. Only I wish it had more space to mount an extra 360mm rad.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> Yeah, I was planning to buy the 900D but I just couldn't afford to buy $380 case. It was either stay with my 6970 and get the 900D or get a GTX 970 and stay with the same case. Ultimately I had to get a new graphics card because the 6970 is barley giving me 40FPS with most modern games.
> 
> Recently I fell in love with the Corsair 540 air. It looks absolutely amazing. It is the perfect case for me. Only I wish it had more space to mount an extra 360mm rad.


price a problem just get phanteks enthoo pro, luxe or primo. Even the new evolv atx all amazing water cool cases for the money


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> price a problem just get phanteks enthoo pro, luxe or primo. Even the new evolv atx all amazing water cool cases for the money


+1 for a Phanteks case.. Just moved into a Enthoo Primo and love it...


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> price a problem just get phanteks enthoo pro, luxe or primo. Even the new evolv atx all amazing water cool cases for the money


I wish I had known about these cases before I rebuilt my loop. :/ they look pretty good.

Ohh well, I will get a new case when I get another 970.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

I can not stop my reservoir from leaking out of the bottom cap. I've pulled it out of the rig and set it up with the pump top outside and it does not leak. I can't figure out for the life of me why it's leaking in the case though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well, have u tried silicon tape? I always use it where threads are concerned.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I can not stop my reservoir from leaking out of the bottom cap. I've pulled it out of the rig and set it up with the pump top outside and it does not leak. I can't figure out for the life of me why it's leaking in the case though.


Which res? Is it an EK? If its an EK - most likely your fitting (the thread) isn't long (and narrow) enough. EK has this irritating implementation of having their thread recessed deeper than they should on their res.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well, have u tried silicon tape? I always use it where threads are concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nah I haven't. Don't really understand why it's only leaking in the case though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Which res? Is it an EK? If its an EK - most likely your fitting (the thread) isn't long (and narrow) enough. EK has this irritating implementation of having their thread recessed deeper than they should on their res.


Bitspower Multi-Z 250ml. It's not leaking from the male-male thread, it's leaking from the cap.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Bitspower Multi-Z 250ml. It's not leaking from the male-male thread, it's leaking from the cap.


I had this issue and in my case the return line going into the cap top was putting too much lateral pressure onto the cap and skewing the oring. Cutting a new shorter tube solved the issue. I suspect this is still the reason im slowly losing coolant from evap.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Which res? Is it an EK? If its an EK - most likely your fitting (the thread) isn't long (and narrow) enough. EK has this irritating implementation of having their thread recessed deeper than they should on their res.


EK requires an extender for some of their pump/res ports so the fitting will sit correctly. They do this so their stop plugs will sit flush when the port isn't being used. Although annoying yes, I kind of like the looks of the flush stop plugs.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I had this issue and in my case the return line going into the cap top was putting too much lateral pressure onto the cap and skewing the oring. Cutting a new shorter tube solved the issue. I suspect this is still the reason im slowly losing coolant from evap.


Hmm I'll give this a try. At first I thought the tubing was too short so I so cut a longer one but perhaps it's too long now.


----------



## Fantasy

Will now that my machine is quiet and doesn't sound like a jet engine, I can hear my GTX 970 coil whine ;_; ;_;

Well that sucks....


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> Will now that my machine is quiet and doesn't sound like a jet engine, I can hear my GTX 970 coil whine ;_; ;_;
> 
> Well that sucks....


I have 5-120mm x 38mm, 141 cfm Delta fans I'm selling that will mask that coil whine...

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12trblhisp.html


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I have 5-120mm x 38mm, 141 cfm Delta fans I'm selling that will mask that coil whine...
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12trblhisp.html


ooh baby, those Delta's








I wouldn't hear a thing even If the building next to me started collapsing with those babies. I guess the coil whine is not that big of a deal. For years I have heard people talk about how annoying coil whine is . I guess I never noticed it or never had it before. Well there is a first time for everything


----------



## By-Tor

I ran them on a fan controller for years and really didn't pay them no mind, until I swapped them out for some lower cfm fans and wow they made a lot of noise..

But if your using a very dense radiator say in the 30fpi or more they pull over 13 max air pressure and really move some air...


----------



## wjturner78

final wip photos after this its tear down for final paint and assembly with "white glove" treatment


Spoiler: Rear!













Spoiler: Front without door!













Spoiler: front with door!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So rotary fittings... not sure if it's just the ones I bought (Phobya) or rotaries in general, but boy is it easy to uncompress these things. I have to tear down my entire loop now because a rotary on my Supremacy Evo uncompressed and leaked down the side of my mobo/gpu. Thankfull the water was easy enough to clean up as it wasn't much, but no way I am going to trust these things again.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> final wip photos after this its tear down for final paint and assembly with "white glove" treatment
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Rear!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Front without door!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: front with door!


Wow really nice work! Did you just mask it off and spray paint or was it hand painted? Love the detail


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Wow really nice work! Did you just mask it off and spray paint or was it hand painted? Love the detail


its poly carbonate with colored vinyl or the inside to allow light to pass (they all light up) and paint on the outside this gives it a 3d effect because of the depth difference. i made the graphics in adobe then took them to a sign shop to have them cut on a plotter i then used those cut peices of vinyl as "masking tape" painted everything black then peeled the logos and there ya have it!

thanks for the kind words the build log is here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/sponsored-the-phoenix-rog-rve-5960x-40-tb-1080mm-rad-space-enthoo-primo


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So rotary fittings... not sure if it's just the ones I bought (Phobya) or rotaries in general, but boy is it easy to uncompress these things. I have to tear down my entire loop now because a rotary on my Supremacy Evo uncompressed and leaked down the side of my mobo/gpu. Thankfull the water was easy enough to clean up as it wasn't much, but no way I am going to trust these things again.


it's just phobia, their rotaries are not good quality, I used 3-4 in the past and they were horrible to deal with, bitspower makes the best quality rotary fittings from my experience, I've never had any issues with them

just my


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> it's just phobia, their rotaries are not good quality, I used 3-4 in the past and they were horrible to deal with, bitspower makes the best quality rotary fittings from my experience, I've never had any issues with them
> 
> just my


Yeah I hear you. I would have definitely gone Bitspower but I didn't have the budget for it. Could have spent another $100-$200 on just upping all my fittings to Bitspower alone.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> it's just phobia, their rotaries are not good quality, I used 3-4 in the past and they were horrible to deal with, bitspower makes the best quality rotary fittings from my experience, I've never had any issues with them
> 
> just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I hear you. I would have definitely gone Bitspower but I didn't have the budget for it. Could have spent another $100-$200 on just upping all my fittings to Bitspower alone.
Click to expand...

And as you're beginning to realize, it would have been well worth it at twice that price . . . .

Another thought to remember, nothing else from Phobya is likely to be any better, so learn to budget accordingly.

D.


----------



## gdubc

Not even sure what this means but:
https://m.facebook.com/frozencpucom#


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And as you're beginning to realize, it would have been well worth it at twice that price . . . .
> 
> Another thought to remember, nothing else from Phobya is likely to be any better, so learn to budget accordingly.
> 
> D.


Well luckily I don't have anything else from Phobya but their fittings and fill bottle which I just bought


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Well luckily I don't have anything else from Phobya but their fittings and fill bottle which I just bought


Did you fix the Leak on the Bits Res? I was going to suggest to make sure you install the big O rings inbetween the Cap and Actual Cylinder of the Res. I almost forgot those when using the 150ml Res on the Parvum Build.

But is it leaking from the fitting (Inlet) and down the res... or just leaking from the side of the cylinder?

TCO


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Did you fix the Leak on the Bits Res? I was going to suggest to make sure you install the big O rings inbetween the Cap and Actual Cylinder of the Res. I almost forgot those when using the 150ml Res on the Parvum Build.
> 
> But is it leaking from the fitting (Inlet) and down the res... or just leaking from the side of the cylinder?
> 
> TCO


Yeah I fixed that leak. The tubing had to be a literal perfect fit (not too short or long) and then it stopped leaking as I guess the tubing was putting extra pressure on it. It was leaking down the cylinder a few drops at a time.


----------



## Trestles126

Picked up a g2 evga 1000 watt pay n installed should be doing a leak test by the weekend


----------



## andl

That time when you wait for stupid fitting to arrive and haven't decided to take that trade off to use old fugly fittings


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Well luckily I don't have anything else from Phobya but their fittings and fill bottle which I just bought


My phobya 45 working for 2 years and still good while EK 45 failed already. My phobya radiators didn't give me any reason to change it.


----------



## Jumie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanR*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am considering a custom loop in my system and thought I would look for some educated advice here.
> 
> I want to keep my system mATX and i currently have a corsair 350D, is there another much better mATX case of similar or smaller size and visuals for watercooling?
> I also love the look of rigid tubing and was wondering how hard that is to use? I am a first time watercooler and would want to bend the tubes and not use fittings for bends.
> I have a windforce gtx 970 and have only seen EK fullcover blocks for it and was wondering if anyone knows if there is anything else available as well as opinions of the plain black vs the clear one you can see the coolant through. On that topic I quite like the visual look of EK and their blocks, but i cannot find somewhere other than the EK site to buy the see through EK cpu block.
> Finally I currently have a corsair h110 and was wondering if I can just reuse that rad in a custom loop or would I be better off buying another rad? Also would I need more than the 280mm rad to cool a 4790K and a 970?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help


hey there.. thought my pic would help u decide. Im also using 350D


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> hey there.. thought my pic would help u decide. Im also using 350D


thats tight fit.


----------



## Jumie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> thats tight fit.


It is.. but somehow I like it that way.. just like a car engine under the hood


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Not even sure what this means but:
> https://m.facebook.com/frozencpucom#


lololol.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Not even sure what this means but:
> https://m.facebook.com/frozencpucom#


Even thought I'm not Us I am following this with interest I want to see if there are new owners or if they are going to try and rebuild what they had and hope that customers are not too pissed and that they decide to never order again.


----------



## bundymania

Hey Kidz, which one is your favorite ?























































Best Regards,
Angela Merkel


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hey Kidz, which one is your favorite ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> Angela Merkel


Me likey


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hey Kidz, which one is your favorite ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> Angela Merkel


The BP full acrylic. The short AC blocks are meh. Full acrylic AC block would be a winner.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love the looks of AC's blocks on most cards but that one for the 980 doesn't look right compared to the fullness of BP card


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hey Kidz, which one is your favorite ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> Angela Merkel


I have to agree that the full coverage block just looks better to me.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hey Kidz, which one is your favorite ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> Angela Merkel


I love that AC block. That BP block not for me. Maybe I'll reconsider if they reduce the font size on that block.


----------



## cgull

The chancellor approves of the aqua computer block ... They are special


----------



## TGBM

Tbh I really like them all but agree the Bp one is nicer!


----------



## bundymania

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The BP full acrylic. The short AC blocks are meh. Full acrylic AC block would be a winner.


BTW: Optional fullsize backplate for the AC block is available for ~ 30 €


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Even thought I'm not Us I am following this with interest I want to see if there are new owners or if they are going to try and rebuild what they had and hope that customers are not too pissed and that they decide to never order again.


Not really sure what it all means either, but when I followed that link it appeared all posts between Black Friday and yesterday were gone.


----------



## sdmf74

How many REP+'s do I need to be able to sell in the marketplace???


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> How many REP+'s do I need to be able to sell in the marketplace???


35

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Or be a forum editor/mod lol


----------



## By-Tor

Non of the above work for me. Not a fan of clear acrylic on any of my blocks.

Black Acetal looks much better to me..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Or be a forum editor/mod lol


Come on Baggins, Give him a break eh?







We can't all be as lucky as a folding Ed.

TCO


----------



## Durtmagurt

Here is my xfired 290's in the swiftech komodo water blocks love the way they look


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Not sure if any of you saw this on facebook, but looks like we got more Gentle typhoons coming to Performance-PCs next week.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> 
> Not sure if any of you saw this on facebook, but looks like we got more Gentle typhoons coming to Performance-PCs next week.


Yes. Dazmode have in stock for a while now and it seems it made some sort of agreement with PPC. Also, PWM GTs will be available at mid-August in Dazmode and hopefully in PPC too.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes. Dazmode have in stock for a while now and it seems it made some sort of agreement with PPC. Also, PWM GTs will be available at mid-August in Dazmode and hopefully in PPC too.


If only I didn't live in the UK *sigh*


----------



## snef

yep, Gentle Typhoon are available
and they are all black now


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yep, Gentle Typhoon are available
> and they are all black now


Snef sneaking in there with a photo of what everyone wants







you painting them for GC 2?


----------



## snef

yes, bought tools to disassemble and spare snap pins hahahahha

frame will be white

not sure for the blades, keep black, white or green,same shade as case and coolant (but UV reactive)

like these:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Snef sneaking in there with a photo of what everyone wants
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you painting them for GC 2?


You can get those from Mayhems shop in UK mate. Mayhems and Dazmode also came to some sort of agreement since Nidec require high volume orders. I am glad this is happening. It is by far the best fan for radiators and easy to mod and paint. Love mine and will be getting PWM versions from Daz as soon as he get it. Example of GTs in two different dressings:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Gabrielzm I love that Reservoir. I am going to use one in my next build.









I am not missing out this time.

TCO


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> If only I didn't live in the UK *sigh*


http://mayhems.co.uk/store/120mm-nidec-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition.html

Edit: Gabrielzm beat me to it..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I do love a GT..shame the finish on the black is so gopping.....

Well done Anatoly for keeping them going.

You dont actually need to remove the hub,you can heat gun the motor on the blade side and the whole plastic assembly slides off.

In other news...this Gigabyte x99m is the worst motherboard I have ever owned,USB issues,boot issues,unable to hold an OC........

Absolute crap.


----------



## wermad

GB X79 and x99 have been let downs tbh. Their enthusiasts line (ie lga1150) is great







, though a shame only the top tier boards have the core3d chip with z97.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> GB X79 and x99 have been let downs tbh. Their enthusiasts line (ie lga1150) is great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , though a shame only the top tier boards have the core3d chip with z97.


Its shockingly bad,I can get really good OC's but the constant boot issues foul it up and I end up having to reset BIOS.

Its,quite simply,junk. Im giving it one more BIOS update,if its not fixed by then...its in the bin or Ebay.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do love a GT..shame the finish on the black is so gopping.....
> 
> Well done Anatoly for keeping them going.
> 
> You dont actually need to remove the hub,you can heat gun the motor on the blade side and the whole plastic assembly slides off.


Can you do that to Vardar's BNeg?

Shame about your board. Kinda makes one wonder how they got the Record using LN2 with all the issues.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do love a GT..shame the finish on the black is so gopping.....
> 
> Well done Anatoly for keeping them going.
> 
> You dont actually need to remove the hub,you can heat gun the motor on the blade side and the whole plastic assembly slides off.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you do that to Vardar's BNeg?
> 
> Shame about your board. Kinda makes one wonder how they got the Record using LN2 with all the issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

You know...Im not sure.
They come apart easily tho,much easier than the Typhoons and the circlip is a white plastic disk with a cut thru,not so easy to lose.


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yes, bought tools to disassemble and spare snap pins hahahahha
> 
> frame will be white
> 
> not sure for the blades, keep black, white or green,same shade as case and coolant (but UV reactive)
> 
> like these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hot damn that is one sexy machine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do love a GT..shame the finish on the black is so gopping.....
> 
> Well done Anatoly for keeping them going.
> 
> You dont actually need to remove the hub,you can heat gun the motor on the blade side and the whole plastic assembly slides off.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you do that to Vardar's BNeg?
> 
> Shame about your board. Kinda makes one wonder how they got the Record using LN2 with all the issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You know...Im not sure.
> They come apart easily tho,much easier than the Typhoons and the circlip is a white plastic disk with a cut thru,not so easy to lose.
Click to expand...

Aight, thank you. Can you use your contacts to put a bug in EK's ear about a crossflow PE while you're in a helpful mood.









I'm going EK instead of HWLabs due to their modability. And cheap as they are atm, seems like the thing to do. GTs or Vardar's? Darned PPCs simply put a kink in the wrench for fan choices today.









~Ceadder


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hey Kidz, which one is your favorite ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> Angela Merkel


Honestly, the AquaComputer one looks prettier, but it doesn't cover the 980 fully, which is a bit sad. You CAN go the BNeg-way and make a cover for it, displaying that BEAUTIFULLY shaped acrylic cover with a "full-cover" part on the rest.
Like what he did on the Clos3 Impact build,
better seen here:



What he did on that R9 290 waters my mouth to this day. I want one of those covers, just matte black.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Honestly, the AquaComputer one looks prettier, but it doesn't cover the 980 fully, which is a bit sad. You CAN go the BNeg-way and make a cover for it, displaying that BEAUTIFULLY shaped acrylic cover with a "full-cover" part on the rest.
> Like what he did on the Clos3 Impact build,
> better seen here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What he did on that R9 290 waters my mouth to this day. I want one of those covers, just matte black.


Wow just speechless! That is amazing wish I could manage to make that sort of thing!


----------



## SteezyTN

My build is officially done. Once I get all the air bubbles out, I'll top off the res. I'm so happy with how it actually turned out.



Now that I spent $2000 on graphic cards and about $1300 on watercooling, I need to focus on my schooling haha.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My build is officially done. Once I get all the air bubbles out, I'll top off the res. I'm so happy with how it actually turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I spent $2000 on graphic cards and about $1300 on watercooling, I need to focus on my schooling haha.


Wow I love the look of the build it really looks amazing!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Wow I love the look of the build it really looks amazing!


Thanks. I spent countless hours on it. I'm truly proud of myself.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> *My build is officially done*. Once I get all the air bubbles out, I'll top off the res. I'm so happy with how it actually turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I spent $2000 on graphic cards and about $1300 on watercooling, I need to focus on my schooling haha.


Bout Time









TCO


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My build is officially done. Once I get all the air bubbles out, I'll top off the res. I'm so happy with how it actually turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I spent $2000 on graphic cards and about $1300 on watercooling, I need to focus on my schooling haha.






Very nice, Steezy! I particularly like how the white fluid stands out! Nice combo.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its shockingly bad,I can get really good OC's but the constant boot issues foul it up and I end up having to reset BIOS.
> 
> Its,quite simply,junk. Im giving it one more BIOS update,if its not fixed by then...its in the bin or Ebay.


Interesting I never felt the need to upgrade to x97 or x99 but it was on the wish list.

I had this problem with a P67 then moved to P77 still had the same problem till I replaced the CPU no more double posts, interestingly absolutely rock solid stable if you got it to boot.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bout Time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You know it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> 
> Very nice, Steezy! I particularly like how the white fluid stands out! Nice combo.


Thanks. I originally planned on mayhems pastel red, but I forgot that I ordered anodized red fittings. Red fittings and red coolant would look a little weird. That's when I decided to go Ice White, and I think it looks good with that choice.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

is it beautiful? In a sense, sure.. is it perfect, absolutely not... but it is a 650D with s 3960x and four 780Ti Classifieds Folding away for Stanford :-D


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> is it beautiful? In a sense, sure.. is it perfect, absolutely not... but it is a 650D with s 3960x and four 780Ti Classifieds Folding away for Stanford :-D


That's a beast of a rig right there!! Have you joined a folding team? If not, you should definitely join Overclock.net's team. Head over here to learn how to join!


----------



## jon666

Been getting bored without my pc. Once I send in my block to swiftech and hopefully get a new one I should be able to run two miles without stopping. Missing out on the overclock contest as well. If I damaged my gpus I am going to overclock those things to death if they have any life left.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That's a beast of a rig right there!! Have you joined a folding team? If not, you should definitely join Overclock.net's team. Head over here to learn how to join!


I fold for evga, and this is a dedicated folding rig. My 980 KPE's also fold when I am not playing anything.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I fold for evga, and this is a dedicated folding rig. My 980 KPE's also fold when I am not playing anything.


Ahh, so, you help keep them ahead of us then.


----------



## Archea47

I have to say, I'm continuing to be impressed by PPCs

Not only have my orders gone out the morning after the evening placed, their customer service has been very responsive to emails.

I was worried when FCPU went down. Pretty darn pleased so far with the option left


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I have to say, I'm continuing to be impressed by PPCs
> 
> Not only have my orders gone out the morning after the evening placed, their customer service has been very responsive to emails.
> 
> I was worried when FCPU went down. Pretty darn pleased so far with the option left


Out of curiosity, are you paying for expedited handling?

My orders take 2-3 days before they ship. but I'm not paying the expedite fee since once it does ship I normally get it next day since I'm in the same state as PPCS.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Out of curiosity, are you paying for expedited handling?
> 
> My orders take 2-3 days before they ship. but I'm not paying the expedite fee since once it does ship I normally get it next day since I'm in the same state as PPCS.


I did not - also I chose the cheapest shipping option (once was UPS, another Fedex) as well +insurance


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I did not - also I chose the cheapest shipping option (once was UPS, another Fedex) as well +insurance


Thanks for the response. I guess they just like you best,


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Thanks for the response. I guess they just like you best,


I'd only ordered from them once before - overnight plus rush shipped a few cable combs


----------



## emsj86

Ppc I think took the ball and ran with it. Website needs to be simple and not crazy specially on mobile seeing as I usually so my shopping or browsing on mobile while on break at work and what not. But they seem to have less hate than before. Good for them as I was worried with frozen being out that we as a community would be forced to deal with a bs company


----------



## Ceadderman

Any time I order from them (FL to WA) I never use Rush an my orders get to me in a reasonably quick manner. Unless I order on Thursday, so of course I am not going to get it til the following Saturday. Which is fine because I'm in no hurry.

They're even helping me get my mod together. They're a lot better than some people believe. Not that I'm judging because I don't know who they talked to or what transpires between the parties involved, but if you are going to put up emails online it doesn't help your cause with any business.

Just sayin.









~Ceadder


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Ahh, so, you help keep them ahead of us then.


Indeed.. Went full bore into the top 100 last month, and watching the project rank is like watching a slinkie on meth tumbling down stairs. Today should mark the 2.0-2.2m ppd barrier. Was project rank 966 at 945. At 1015, project rank 916.


----------



## SteezyTN

My orders from PPCS normally ship out within 2 days of placing the order, and once shipped, takes EXACTLY one week to reach my doorstep. I always go with FedEx ground since it's the "cheapest". I did go FE 2 day for my last order though because I wanted to get my Titam X's all set up and finish my build. FL to CA


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah my FEx Ground goes through Cali then up I-5 which adds a couple of days. When I went USPS successfully depending on the size I could get it in 5 but USPS is spotty at best for successful delivery and that's not going to change any time soon imho. So I will pay UPS or FEX rather than go with the Postal system who seem to have forgotten their own motto or no longer care what it stood for. Sad really. They're gonna lose out on my shipping dollars over the next 6 months.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Small orders typically go out quickly for me. Placed an order Sunday night and was out Monday afternoon. FedEx home (aka ground) option it should be in by tomorrow or friday.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its shockingly bad,I can get really good OC's but the constant boot issues foul it up and I end up having to reset BIOS.
> 
> Its,quite simply,junk. Im giving it one more BIOS update,if its not fixed by then...its in the bin or Ebay.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting I never felt the need to upgrade to x97 or x99 but it was on the wish list.
> 
> I had this problem with a P67 then moved to P77 still had the same problem till I replaced the CPU no more double posts, interestingly absolutely rock solid stable if you got it to boot.
Click to expand...

Gigabyte x79 motherboards are pretty bad though. Didn't know they're still pretty bad with x99 too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> is it beautiful? In a sense, sure.. is it perfect, absolutely not... but it is a 650D with s 3960x and four 780Ti Classifieds Folding away for Stanford :-D


The blocks are beautiful. Why changed to serial?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Gigabyte x79 motherboards are pretty bad though. Didn't know they're still pretty bad with x99 too.
> The blocks are beautiful. Why changed to serial?


Performance PC's has all of my bitspower tubes and most of my fittings to figure out what went wrong where and why the tube doesn't fit.

I only have 6 monsoon fittings that aren't being used, and as you can see, that only supports serial lol. I am going to order more fittings Friday.

I actually installed the sli bridge strictly for rigidity and linjng up the terminals. Ek replaced all of my terminals after having a few fail.

I love these plexi blocks. They are my favorite part.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Performance PC's has all of my bitspower tubes and most of my fittings to figure out what went wrong where and why the tube doesn't fit.
> 
> I only have 6 monsoon fittings that aren't being used, and as you can see, that only supports serial lol. I am going to order more fittings Friday.
> 
> I actually installed the sli bridge strictly for rigidity and linjng up the terminals. Ek replaced all of my terminals after having a few fail.
> 
> I love these plexi blocks. They are my favorite part.


I hope everything sort out for you.

I also didn't go for parallel for performance but simply just want to try. I use EK terminal triple parallel but I actually like how your terminals look though.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I hope everything sort out for you.
> 
> I also didn't go for parallel for performance but simply just want to try. I use EK terminal triple parallel but I actually like how your terminals look though.


I had the triple parallel terminal and the dual parallel and only one thing bothered me.. The inlet at the bottom right of the terminal. On all of my cards, that is where the probe it connection is to test voltage, and the inlet connector always covered the connection on the bottom card. I put in a request for the inlet to be on the bottom and got a "No, but thanks for the suggestion" lol.

So, I tried this, and I love it. I like the look of parallel especially, because it is balanced. I like the serial look and the bottom card is at 45 max and top is at 50, so I wish I could make them all even like parallel, but it's still really good performance overall.


----------



## TGBM

I really want to do a build with multiple GPU's maybe one day!!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> I really want to do a build with multiple GPU's maybe one day!!


1) Wait for 390X/Fiji to drop
2) Purchase 1 or 2 295X2 on the cheap
3) ????
4) Profit


----------



## Vintage

Question about GPU blocks: Are stock backplates (ie. included with the cards from Asus, msi, etc) compatible with any waterblocks, or do you need and EK backplate for an EK block?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Question about GPU blocks: Are stock backplates (ie. included with the cards from Asus, msi, etc) compatible with any waterblocks, or do you need and EK backplate for an EK block?


I would think they are not compatible with "any" waterblock.

TCO


----------



## Kimir

evga's backplate can be kept using ek block. I did it with my two 780Ti KPEs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Honestly, the AquaComputer one looks prettier, but it doesn't cover the 980 fully, which is a bit sad. You CAN go the BNeg-way and make a cover for it, displaying that BEAUTIFULLY shaped acrylic cover with a "full-cover" part on the rest.
> Like what he did on the Clos3 Impact build,
> better seen here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What he did on that R9 290 waters my mouth to this day. I want one of those covers, just matte black.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow just speechless! That is amazing wish I could manage to make that sort of thing!
Click to expand...

It looked like this once I was finished with it.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Question about GPU blocks: Are stock backplates (ie. included with the cards from Asus, msi, etc) compatible with any waterblocks, or do you need and EK backplate for an EK block?


Backplates are interchangeable if they are a bolt thru type and you have the correct length/thread screws


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I finally did this, well _two_, and it was fun to put together and I love how it looks. Of course this means I have GPUs that are two-three gens old but hey you do what you gotta do. Looks are nearly as important as performance to me these days.


----------



## deehoC

Just browsing PPCS and I noticed *this*.

Coollaboratory Liquid Copper Heat Conduction Paste sounds quite promising but I'm guessing this was just released or it's really bad since I've never seen a mention of it anywhere lol. If anyone tries it out I'd be really interested in the results.

edit: Just googled and yeah its new but I'm surprised they haven't put down the thermal conductivity numbers anywhere on their site or the documentation.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Just browsing PPCS and I noticed *this*.
> 
> Coollaboratory Liquid Copper Heat Conduction Paste sounds quite promising but I'm guessing this was just released or it's really bad since I've never seen a mention of it anywhere lol. If anyone tries it out I'd be really interested in the results.
> 
> edit: Just googled and yeah its new but I'm surprised they haven't put down the thermal conductivity numbers anywhere on their site or the documentation.


Silver is a better conductor of heat than copper is. I'm guessing that's why they didn't post the thermal conductivity results.


----------



## Kimir

It's been tested in here:
http://www.play3r.net/reviews/cooling/thermal-paste-comparison-2015-best-thermal-paste/3/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Just browsing PPCS and I noticed *this*.
> 
> Coollaboratory Liquid Copper Heat Conduction Paste sounds quite promising but I'm guessing this was just released or it's really bad since I've never seen a mention of it anywhere lol. If anyone tries it out I'd be really interested in the results.
> 
> edit: Just googled and yeah its new but I'm surprised they haven't put down the thermal conductivity numbers anywhere on their site or the documentation.
> 
> 
> 
> Silver is a better conductor of heat than copper is. I'm guessing that's why they didn't post the thermal conductivity results.
Click to expand...

This depends on the carrier agent tho. If the carrier is not up to snuff,the silver wont be as effective.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This depends on the carrier agent tho. If the carrier is not up to snuff,the silver wont be as effective.


Yes, that's true. I should have mentioned that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!











Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Does he come with a 500ml Phobia Fill Bottle?

TCO

Congrats Mate


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congratulations mate. I am happy for you


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congrats dude.


----------



## Archea47

The results from that testing Kimir are interesting - I think I'll have to pick up some Coollaboratory Ultra for the Daedalic build. Thanks!

Been looking for something with the performance of Gelid GC Extreme without having to soak the TIM in hot water before trying to use before it cools down and back to thicker-than molasses


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congrats homey


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Such a beautiful boy, Ceadder! A warm and wonderful gift to you and you and your family. Congratulations, friend!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


you should have named him Rick Grimes









grats man


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congrats to you and your family....


----------



## MadHatter5045

Congrats @Ceadderman!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well done fella.

Its not ginger tho right?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congrats!

Your son has the best of all possible birthdays. He shares mine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks guys. I'm just so danged sleep deprived atm.
















Happy hatchling day taowulf.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks guys. I'm just so danged sleep deprived atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy hatchling day taowulf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lol...I think you will be sleep deprived for some time to come...


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It looked like this once I was finished with it.....
> Backplates are interchangeable if they are a bolt thru type and you have the correct length/thread screws


Cool, Thanks BNEG.


----------



## Ramzinho

Congraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaats @Ceadderman .... You kid looks wonderful and i wish him a healthy life buddy.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Lol...I think you will be sleep deprived for some time to come...


Congratulations man! The sleepless nights have gone from gaming to kids I feel!


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What a cute little bundle of joy you have there!

Congrats sir


----------



## DarthBaggins

Congrats @Ceadderman


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Congrats @Ceadderman!


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congrats mate









I just discovered this case from BitFenix. It's perfect for me. It has everything the Corsair 540 air and more.
This is my next case.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> Congrats mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just discovered this case from BitFenix. It's perfect for me. It has everything the Corsair 540 air and more.
> This is my next case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks a really interesting case! Have you considered using Parvum? Their cases are quite small if thats what you are looking for and allow for watercooling! I am doing a build log at the moment over here if you want to check it out and see what you think!


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Looks a really interesting case! Have you considered using Parvum? Their cases are quite small if thats what you are looking for and allow for watercooling! I am doing a build log at the moment over here if you want to check it out and see what you think!


Yeah, I would love to see that. It looks very interesting.
Any dual chamber case is my kind of case.









I'm looking at the Parvum right now and looks really awesome. I just feel it is a bit too small. But then again I don't think I would need more than four PCI-E slots on a case.
These days i'm loving the Mini-ITX and Mico-ATX boards. The Parvum would be perfect for that kind of build. I don't need that giant Asus R5E board with 6 PCI-E slots. Two PCI-E slots for dual graphics card is perfect for me.


----------



## emsj86

For the vets and water cores in general. What's some cases you have worked with or know that our good for water cooling (looks do matter) that our sub 400 range. I have the enthoo pro and while I like it I maxed out it's potential and really would like to buy a case that way I still have my rig running and can build at my own pace and when painting and panels mods out done I can just switch over atx motherboard and other parts. Looking for atx comatiable thanks in advance. (Caselabs s8, 900d, evolv atx out a few I like so far )


----------



## emsj86

Congrats man on the baby. I have my second in the way (December due date) yes I have a lot less gaming and time to build but wouldn't change it for the world. Life will change but many new amazing moments will come with it. Congrats dude (sorry for double post on the cell and saw the news alittle after I posted)


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far love my M8 and would love to build in an S8S next or an X2M ( but that would be for an htpc build)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For the vets and water cores in general. What's some cases you have worked with or know that our good for water cooling (looks do matter) that our sub 400 range. I have the enthoo pro and while I like it I maxed out it's potential and really would like to buy a case that way I still have my rig running and can build at my own pace and when painting and panels mods out done I can just switch over atx motherboard and other parts. Looking for atx comatiable thanks in advance. (*Caselabs s8, 900d,* evolv atx out a few I like so far )


I thought of the 900D when I saw it on sale around Nov 2014 for 250$ USD which is dirt cheap, But then I went all out and got the SMA8.

If a Caselabs Case will work for you Under 400$ Then My Vote is there of Course.

TCO


----------



## Hambone07si

Well it's going to take some practice, but I think I can figure it out LOL. This was my first bend attempt with some acrylic tube. First I got it too hot and deformed a bit. Then I just started to bend as it heated up and that did way better and looks a lot better and not deformed. More practice should be the key







.. It is fun tho hahaha. I can also see why some people just use 90 degree fittings and use straight tubes.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well it's going to take some practice, but I think I can figure it out LOL. This was my first bend attempt with some acrylic tube. First I got it too hot and deformed a bit. Then I just started to bend as it heated up and that did way better and looks a lot better and not deformed. More practice should be the key
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. It is fun tho hahaha*. I can also see why some people just use 90 degree fittings* and use straight tubes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes. 90 Degree fittings







I love those









In the computers I've assembled with acrylic, I've only had to bend two tubes. And I get scared when I realize I'm going to have to do that.

TCO

I start to feel like (







) Oh.. I remember this now..


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congratulations, Ceadder! With my beer and her wine we cheer you, yours and little big tough dude Chace









I spend so much time and money on here, it does feel like family


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks again all. I know things will change but I do have a 14yo in the house so really I don't see my boy being all that demanding of my time over what my daughter requires. Babies have a lot less drama going on. Teens on the other hand seem to feed on it like it's Prime Rib. Especially girls. I will still be gaming, although as time allows.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yes. 90 Degree fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the computers I've assembled with acrylic, I've only had to bend two tubes. And I get scared when I realize I'm going to have to do that.
> 
> TCO
> 
> I start to feel like (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Oh.. I remember this now..


yeah, I may order some 90's to get things started, but I'd really like to go with all bends. That will take some time, a lot of extra tubes, and patience which is hard for me to find







. on the simple bends I'm sure I can pull those off no problem, but the 90 to the side and then 90 up ones are going to be a pain unless I get some tools I'm sure. You really have no room for error on that type of run.

Grats Ceadderman!!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well it's going to take some practice, but I think I can figure it out LOL. This was my first bend attempt with some acrylic tube. First I got it too hot and deformed a bit. Then I just started to bend as it heated up and that did way better and looks a lot better and not deformed. More practice should be the key
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. It is fun tho hahaha. I can also see why some people just use 90 degree fittings and use straight tubes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good, way way better than my first bend, and get ready for a whole lot of cussing


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> yeah, I may order some 90's to get things started, but I'd really like to go with all bends. That will take some time, a lot of extra tubes, and patience which is hard for me to find
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . on the simple bends I'm sure I can pull those off no problem, but the 90 to the side and then 90 up ones are going to be a pain unless I get some tools I'm sure. You really have no room for error on that type of run.
> 
> Grats Ceadderman!!


IM going to link a 4 point Bend In an S3 that was so epic. I have been checking the log to warm up for my S3 build.

TCO


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


well, technically it's watter-cooled, and it's scratch-built. You going for MOTM???


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> well, technically it's watter-cooled, and it's scratch-built. You going for MOTM???


I bet he's not. For a sole reason that he needs a build log to enter MOTM.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I bet he's not. For a sole reason that he needs a build log to enter MOTM.


Listen, I delivered my son in the upstairs hallway of my house. I'm SO GLAD I don't have a build log to review that scratch build. Let's just say that in those few minutes it was like a Super Soaker, meets ALIEN, meets Gremlins, meets craziness.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I bet he's not. For a sole reason that he needs a build log to enter MOTM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Listen, I delivered my son in the upstairs hallway of my house. I'm SO GLAD I don't have a build log to review that scratch build. Let's just say that in those few minutes it was like a Super Soaker, meets ALIEN, meets Gremlins, meets craziness.
Click to expand...

I *could* provide a build log. But ToS and my Wife would certainly not appreciate that. "Brown Chicken Brown Cow!!!!"


















In all seriousness, now that I have a decent Nikon Coolpix 5700 I can and will be putting pics in my Buildlog before I take it to PDXLan. Can't show it here afterwards so I am hoping to get it done in time for the earliest one before November.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Congrats Ceadderman







. Prepare for less time for your rig









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well it's going to take some practice, but I think I can figure it out LOL. This was my first bend attempt with some acrylic tube. First I got it too hot and deformed a bit. Then I just started to bend as it heated up and that did way better and looks a lot better and not deformed. More practice should be the key
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. It is fun tho hahaha. I can also see why some people just use 90 degree fittings
> 
> *snip*


Tg I'm not doing hard on this massive tx10 + ped. I got the front two rads plumbed but need to wait for the other rads since the brackets are on their way.

Keep at it and make sure you have enough for practice and application. If you have a bending kit, use it to get those crucial bends right.

I'm sticking with nylon and keeping some of my sanity







.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *I could provide a build log. But ToS and my Wife would certainly not appreciate that. "Brown Chicken Brown Cow!!!!"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness, now that I have a decent Nikon Coolpix 5700 I can and will be putting pics in my Buildlog before I take it to PDXLan. Can't show it here afterwards so I am hoping to get it done in time for the earliest one before November.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Haaahaha, good point! And just to be clear, my example was at the end of the build log, not at the beginning!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Congrats Ceadderman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Prepare for less time for your rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Wife is lettin me spend as much time with the mod as possible in the runup to PDXLan. After that well it's anyone's guess.







lol

My daughter is athletic and graduating 8th grade so that in itself will take me away from my gaming habit, or at least force me to budget mt time wisely.









~Ceadder


----------



## THERIDDLER

First time doing a custom loop. Have a couple questions. I want to do a double loop. I have a cosmos 2 case. Will put 360 radiator on tip amd 240 on bottom with 2 res in the middle. Do you pump to or from the res? Fans on both side of radiator or just one?


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> First time doing a custom loop. Have a couple questions. I want to do a double loop. I have a cosmos 2 case. Will put 360 radiator on tip amd 240 on bottom with 2 res in the middle. Do you pump to or from the res? Fans on both side of radiator or just one?


reservoir to pump. fans amount is depend on amount of space.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> reservoir to pump. fans amount is depend on amount of space.


So reservoir feeds into pump than pump to radiator to cpu or card than back to res.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> So reservoir feeds into pump than pump to radiator to cpu or card than back to res.


yup


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> So reservoir feeds into pump than pump to radiator to cpu or card than back to res.


The only part of the loop that really matters for order is res feeds pump. You dont have to go to rads before cards/cpu if it'll look better in a different order.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The only part of the loop that really matters for order is res feeds pump. You dont have to go to rads before cards/cpu if it'll look better in a different order.


Thank you very much. Now I just need to figure out how to make it look nice.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Thank you very much. Now I just need to figure out how to make it look nice.


Just a friendly tip. Start with your longest runs first because if you cut the tube too short, you can use that on your next run that is shorter. That will save you from having to buy more tube possibly.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congrats Sir, I wish your familly lots of healt and love. Take every moment you can to sleep and rest you'll need it.


----------



## Yianni89

With my reservoir delivery imminent i want to purchase some coolants to test color matching to the paint.

as a complete novice to water cooling there are somethings I'm not 100% clear on what is good and what isn't

With such a large variety of coolants on offer from so many manufacturers i don't know where to start

my system will be on pretty much all the time, i want to test the following colors so recommendations would be much appreciated

bellow is a picture of the estimated colors of the case so you can get an idea of what kind of blue i am after.



Pastel white - non UV
Pastel Blue - non UV (not so fussed about this one
Clear Blue - (more of a sky blue than a royal blue) again non UV

i want it to be relatively good in terms of keeping clean, but will happily sacrifice more liquid changes if the coolant is better for any reason

in addition to this what do you all use to clean your WC components?? is there any special solution I should buy or will distilled water running through the system do the job?


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> With my reservoir delivery imminent i want to purchase some coolants to test color matching to the paint.
> 
> as a complete novice to water cooling there are somethings I'm not 100% clear on what is good and what isn't
> 
> With such a large variety of coolants on offer from so many manufacturers i don't know where to start
> 
> my system will be on pretty much all the time, i want to test the following colors so recommendations would be much appreciated
> 
> bellow is a picture of the estimated colors of the case so you can get an idea of what kind of blue i am after.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pastel white - non UV
> Pastel Blue - non UV (not so fussed about this one
> Clear Blue - (more of a sky blue than a royal blue) again non UV
> 
> i want it to be relatively good in terms of keeping clean, but will happily sacrifice more liquid changes if the coolant is better for any reason
> 
> in addition to this what do you all use to clean your WC components?? is there any special solution I should buy or will distilled water running through the system do the job?


I think you want to talk to TCO on that one. He has the pastel Blueberry in one of his loops and it's pretty close to that color you are looking for. Look at his build and see what you think. Those coolants can be mixed together to create the color you want and I'm sure that would be your best bet. What TCO has now tho in his system looks almost exactly that color you have. Might be easier than you think.

Here's a pic of his SICK system below. You can see the color I'm talking about.


Here's putting the 2 colors side by side. Pretty darn close I'd say.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> Yeah, I would love to see that. It looks very interesting.
> Any dual chamber case is my kind of case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking at the Parvum right now and looks really awesome. I just feel it is a bit too small. But then again I don't think I would need more than four PCI-E slots on a case.
> These days i'm loving the Mini-ITX and Mico-ATX boards. The Parvum would be perfect for that kind of build. I don't need that giant Asus R5E board with 6 PCI-E slots. Two PCI-E slots for dual graphics card is perfect for me.


----------



## snef

the blue on you case is little bit darker than Blue pastel, just need a drop or 2 of mayhem dark bue dye


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I think you want to talk to TCO on that one. He has the pastel Blueberry in one of his loops and it's pretty close to that color you are looking for. Look at his build and see what you think. Those coolants can be mixed together to create the color you want and I'm sure that would be your best bet. What TCO has now tho in his system looks almost exactly that color you have. Might be easier than you think.


yep I've been following his build log i was bout to post on there about that one because it is very very close. however i have this feeling i might want to be able to see the Monsta rad that's going to sit just behind the reservoir through it, plus i really like the effervescent type effect the transparent coolants give through a clear reservoir i just don't know until i try but that blue TCO used i think will be on my shopping list because it is very very nice and definitely worth a look!


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> the blue on you case is little bit darker than Blue pastel, just need a drop or 2 of mayhem dark bue dye










thnku! will look into a bottle of that


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Snef!! Didn't know you Canadians got up this early?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> the blue on you case is little bit darker than Blue pastel, just need a drop or 2 of mayhem dark bue dye


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> yep I've been following his build log i was bout to post on there about that one because it is very very close. however i have this feeling i might want to be able to see the Monsta rad that's going to sit just behind the reservoir through it, plus i really like the effervescent type effect the transparent coolants give through a clear reservoir i just don't know until i try but that blue TCO used i think will be on my shopping list because it is very very nice and definitely worth a look!


I used the Blue Berry Pastel 250ml Concentrate. Not a 1L premixed bottle.

It's 250ml to 750ml of Distilled water to create 1L

TCO


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congrats on the new baby!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the new baby!!
Click to expand...

Thank you. Virtual ceegars all round!









~Ceadder


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> With my reservoir delivery imminent i want to purchase some coolants to test color matching to the paint.
> 
> as a complete novice to water cooling there are somethings I'm not 100% clear on what is good and what isn't
> 
> With such a large variety of coolants on offer from so many manufacturers i don't know where to start
> 
> my system will be on pretty much all the time, i want to test the following colors so recommendations would be much appreciated
> 
> bellow is a picture of the estimated colors of the case so you can get an idea of what kind of blue i am after.
> 
> 
> 
> Pastel white - non UV
> Pastel Blue - non UV (not so fussed about this one
> Clear Blue - (more of a sky blue than a royal blue) again non UV
> 
> i want it to be relatively good in terms of keeping clean, but will happily sacrifice more liquid changes if the coolant is better for any reason
> 
> in addition to this what do you all use to clean your WC components?? is there any special solution I should buy or will distilled water running through the system do the job?


I started with Mayhem ice white pastel and added blue dye until it got to the color I needed. You could also start with berry blue and add blue dye to make it darker, but it's the same cost to get white and add the blue dye to make sure you get the color. Just make sure that you go one drop at a time and if you add the dye after the coolant is in the system to let it circulate some before adding more dye.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> With my reservoir delivery imminent i want to purchase some coolants to test color matching to the paint.
> 
> as a complete novice to water cooling there are somethings I'm not 100% clear on what is good and what isn't
> 
> With such a large variety of coolants on offer from so many manufacturers i don't know where to start
> 
> my system will be on pretty much all the time, i want to test the following colors so recommendations would be much appreciated
> 
> bellow is a picture of the estimated colors of the case so you can get an idea of what kind of blue i am after.
> 
> 
> 
> Pastel white - non UV
> Pastel Blue - non UV (not so fussed about this one
> Clear Blue - (more of a sky blue than a royal blue) again non UV
> 
> i want it to be relatively good in terms of keeping clean, but will happily sacrifice more liquid changes if the coolant is better for any reason
> 
> in addition to this what do you all use to clean your WC components?? is there any special solution I should buy or will distilled water running through the system do the job?


Close up pic of the pastel blue berry. You probably need to add dark blue dye a couple of drops.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I started with Mayhem ice white pastel and added blue dye until it got to the color I needed. You could also start with berry blue and add blue dye to make it darker, but it's the same cost to get white and add the blue dye to make sure you get the color. Just make sure that you go one drop at a time and if you add the dye after the coolant is in the system to let it circulate some before adding more dye.


Where do you find the white pump with clear acrylic top?


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


A little late to the party, but a big congratulations still... That's one handsome bundle of joy you've got there...


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder




















Congrats Ceadder!


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Where do you find the white pump with clear acrylic top?


It's the Bitspower DDC pump housing and the 150 top upgrade kit for the DDC pumps. I got them both at PPCs. Here's the performance link to all the Bitspower DDC stuff that they have in all the colors and sizes. If you are using a D5 pump instead they do have options for those as well.


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*


This case is perfect. Thank you for sharing it.
Now I actually have options to chose from. All these cases are great. But so far the LIAN LI PC-08 is in the lead.


LIAN LI PC-O8
BitFenix ATLAS
Parvum
Corsair Air 540


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thank you. Virtual ceegars all round!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Congrats!


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantasy*
> 
> This case is perfect. Thank you for sharing it.
> Now I actually have options to chose from. All these cases are great. But so far the LIAN LI PC-08 is in the lead.
> 
> 
> LIAN LI PC-O8
> BitFenix ATLAS
> Parvum
> Corsair Air 540


I like them in the same order like you.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 9mo bundle of Mod!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say hullo to the newest member of the Overclock.net family. My son Chace Dylan James Grimes, born this morning 11 June 2015 @0838. 6lbs 2oz and 19 3/4". A set of lungs like no other and tougher than Rhinoceros hide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


congratzzzz... a future world class modder


----------



## JLMS2010

Congrats my friend!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

THought you guys might like and Cheer up a Friday for Some











TCO


----------



## Cyclops

My latest build:


----------



## szeged




----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> My latest build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Trying to figure out what all is going on there with the tubing runs. The pump doesnt seem fully connected at the near end? And then... is that a 295x2 and a 290x?


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Trying to figure out what all is going on there with the tubing runs. The pump doesnt seem fully connected at the near end? And then... is that a 295x2 and a 290x?


It's a GTX 560 Ti with a GTX 260 as dedicated PhysX.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*


Don't get excited or anything lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Reservoir for the "grey matter" is ready. Now to leak test it and then go







on the case front.



Perfect! No leaks so far. Will put it in a simple loop to test how it behave. Alignment sound great too (1cm off) which is what is required to seat flush with the front of the case when I cut it open













It is a little higher because of the stop plug on the bottom. It will be perfect


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> THought you guys might like and Cheer up a Friday for Some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Don't know why he's getting so much attention. People have been shooting their computers since ......
Quote:


> [NEWS] Man Shoots Computer! From the Echoes-Sentines, Somerset
> County, NJ, *Sept. 17, 1987*:
> 
> GILLETTE RESIDENT IS ARRESTED AFTER SHOOTING HIS COMPUTER
> 
> PASSAIC TWP. -- A Gillette man was arrested at his home last Thursday
> night after he fired eight bullets at his home computer, according to
> police. The man, Michael A. Case, 35, of 64 Summit Ave., was arrested
> shortly after 11 p.m., at his house, when police said they received a
> report that shots were fired. They arrived at the home to find a .44
> Magnum automatic handgun and a shot-up IBM personal computer with a
> Princeton Graphics System monitor. The monitor screen was blown out by
> the blasts and its inner workings were visible, Lt. Donald Van Tassel
> said on Monday. The computer, which had bullet holes in its hardware,
> was hit four times while four more bullet holes were found in various
> areas next to the computer, Van Tassel said. "The only thing he (Case)
> said was that he was mad at his computer so he shot it," Van Tassel
> said. The handgun, which the lieutenant identified as an Israeli Arms
> Desert Eagle .44, has "a lot of firepower," he said. "It's a big gun."
> Case used hollow-point, or dum-dum, bullets, he added. Case was
> surprised when police arrested him because he didn't think he was
> breaking the law, Van Tassel said. *"He couldn't understand why he
> couldn't shoot his own computer in his own home,"* Van Tassel said.
> Case was charged with recklessly creating a risk and using a firearm
> against the property of another, because the house is reportedly owned
> by a relative. The walls were also damaged by the shots, according to
> police. He was also charged with unlawful posession of a firearm
> without a permit, and with possession of illegal bullets, police said.
> In addition, Case was issued to summonses, for discharging a weapon in
> a restricted area and for discharging a single-projectile weapon,
> police said. Case spent early Friday morning in the Morris County Jail
> and was released later in the day on $2,500 bail, according to police.
> A Municipal Court appearance is scheduled for today, Sept. 17.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I am trying to gather some parts for a little rebuild of my loop. Should I do:

1) Bent acrylic tubing
2) Straight acrylic tubing with these
3) Straight chrome-plated copper tubing with these

Fittings will be Nickel/Silver Shining, EK-Supremacy EVO White Edition, 2x White EK X3 250 reservoirs. Radiators, fans, case exterior, cables will be black. Case interior will be white.

I am leaning towards Acrylic tubing and these fittings, copper tubing would be more nice, but then I do not see the color of the coolant (which I might think will be a bit "boring").

Anyone know if/where I can get the Corsair Dominator Platinum Light-bar upgrade kit (that ships internationally)?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Reservoir for the "grey matter" is ready. Now to leak test it and then go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the case front.
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect! No leaks so far. Will put it in a simple loop to test how it behave. Alignment sound great too (1cm off) which is what is required to seat flush with the front of the case when I cut it open
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a little higher because of the stop plug on the bottom. It will be perfect


All that comes to mind is what I hear from the young kids DayUMMMM! Btw. Is that he s8 or s8s looks like the s8s


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> All that comes to mind is what I hear from the young kids DayUMMMM! Btw. Is that he s8 or s8s looks like the s8s


Thks. Glad you made that comment about S8 or S8s. That is the whole point of this build. A S5 modded to look like a S8 with the reservoir in front like a window. The reservoir was the central piece required and now that is done I can move on with the build and cut the case to fit the reservoir. Then is just tubing it and will be almost done.









and now with a simple loop.












It sounds like this now with the d5 at 100%:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Don't know why he's getting so much attention. People have been shooting their computers since ......


I just saw the pic and wanted to post it, Didn't realize it was "Getting Attention"








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks. Glad you made that comment about S8 or S8s. That is the whole point of this build. A S5 modded to look like a S8 with the reservoir in front like a window. The reservoir was the central piece required and now that is done I can move on with the build and cut the case to fit the reservoir. Then is just tubing it and will be almost done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now with a simple loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like this now with the d5 at 100%:


Gabe are those holes and tapped for G 1/4" Fittings? Love the colour of the fluid!

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Guys PLEASE... Spoiler Quoted pictures.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I just saw the pic and wanted to post it, Didn't realize it was "Getting Attention"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gabe are those holes and tapped for G 1/4" Fittings? Love the colour of the fluid!
> 
> TCO


Yep. 5 mm cast acrylic and I tapped to g 1/4. Small mistake on the lateral hole where one of the exterior borders of the g1/4 was bite (a small piece of 2-3 mm). But is not leaking so I am good to go.


----------



## Hambone07si

I'm cheating a little bit









I just want the bends to be nice and uniform and match where they can. Using this as my setup to measure and double check before wasting tubes lol. Time to start the fun


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Don't know why he's getting so much attention. People have been shooting their computers since ......
> 
> 
> 
> I just saw the pic and wanted to post it, Didn't realize it was "Getting Attention"
Click to expand...

Not you, him...he's nearly gone viral - saw that on a few sites today


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Guys PLEASE... Spoiler Quoted pictures.


Who? What?

TCO


----------



## Ghoxt

I posted elsewhere last week but should post here as well. My 1st true water build after watching you masters for years. S8 of course


----------



## Hambone07si

Hell yeah!! First tube turned out perfect







.. This may be easier than I thought. These were only my 3rd and 4th bends ever. Should only get better as I go and learn how much heat to give it just right. I may have the whole system up and running with all the hardlines done tomorrow


----------



## Trestles126

Said screw it and bought the Maximus formula vii and a clear csq ek d5 pump to go horizontal right next to the ram block flush with the caselabs mid rail. Should look cool and be benificial. I also have a acrylic psu box being made by a good friend that has a acrylic cnc machine should be a nice touch.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

First time posting my build on here... Maximus VII Formula, 980 classified sli, 4790K, gSKILL Trident X 2400, EK blocks, Alphacool rads
(480, 420, 280 x 2)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Reservoir for the "grey matter" is ready. Now to leak test it and then go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the case front.
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect! No leaks so far. Will put it in a simple loop to test how it behave. Alignment sound great too (1cm off) which is what is required to seat flush with the front of the case when I cut it open
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a little higher because of the stop plug on the bottom. It will be perfect


Im a well known 'big res' fan and I like a hand made one too.

Looks good,the return feed is a bit high tho


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks. Glad you made that comment about S8 or S8s. That is the whole point of this build. A S5 modded to look like a S8 with the reservoir in front like a window. The reservoir was the central piece required and now that is done I can move on with the build and cut the case to fit the reservoir. Then is just tubing it and will be almost done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now with a simple loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like this now with the d5 at 100%:


Thats cuz of the air bubbles. Itll quiet down after a few days, and if you shake it a little


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im a well known 'big res' fan and I like a hand made one too.
> 
> Looks good,the return feed is a bit high tho


I agree, and i would put the return at the bottom, or you'll scratch your eardrums from annoyance at the sound of falling water.


----------



## anotheraznguy

That reservoir is amazing!!!!

And might as well throw up my first water build



Just redid the 2 tubes coming out the cpu block today might redo them again later on.

Also a video

https://instagram.com/p/325iiWPhL1/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im a well known 'big res' fan and I like a hand made one too.
> 
> Looks good,the return feed is a bit high tho


Yep B. I figured that after turning the test loop for the first time since even with the reservoir full the pressure head was enough to create a vortex on the top (was just the pump and reservoir). Choose that position because will make the return line from the top 360 rad a short straight line. I am hoping with the full loop and more restriction it will quiet down a bit. Let's see how this goes. Have work to do first cutting the front of the case to fit the reservoir so I can make all the tube connections and test it. Thks for the feedback.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> That reservoir is amazing!!!!
> 
> And might as well throw up my first water build
> 
> 
> 
> Just redid the 2 tubes coming out the cpu block today might redo them again later on.
> 
> Also a video
> 
> https://instagram.com/p/325iiWPhL1/


Nice build. Build log? What case is that fractal?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Well I thought my i5-2500k was lapped flat...guess I was wrong. I didn't do a "full" lapping using low grit sand paper...basically went to a mirror finish and removed some of the surface... Guess I have a long way to go...check out the pressure contact paper:

This was this morning before additional lapping:

On the left is after I lapped it again with 2k grit sand paper. I need some low stuff like 800 grit to remove alot more material to get this chip back to flat.

It sure does have a mirror finish though


And its cooled by a modded H60 cooler with 240 rad. CPU is 4.5GHz with a 66C max in prime. 78F ambient.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Well I thought my i5-2500k was lapped flat...guess I was wrong. I didn't do a "full" lapping using low grit sand paper...basically went to a mirror finish and removed some of the surface... Guess I have a long way to go...check out the pressure contact paper:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This was this morning before additional lapping:
> 
> On the left is after I lapped it again with 2k grit sand paper. I need some low stuff like 800 grit to remove alot more material to get this chip back to flat.
> 
> It sure does have a mirror finish though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And its cooled by a modded H60 cooler with 240 rad. CPU is 4.5GHz with a 66C max in prime. 78F ambient.


I start with 220 - all the zinc plating should be gone before going further. Then I step up in grit from there 200 at a time. Do the same to your block so it's completely flat as well. When I did mine I got almost 10*C improvement in package Temps

My favorite part about the lapping is that if both are perfectly flat you only need to essentially 'tin' the surfaces with TIM. Fir my new build In going to try the Coollaboratories metallic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Well I thought my i5-2500k was lapped flat...guess I was wrong. I didn't do a "full" lapping using low grit sand paper...basically went to a mirror finish and removed some of the surface... Guess I have a long way to go...check out the pressure contact paper:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This was this morning before additional lapping:
> 
> On the left is after I lapped it again with 2k grit sand paper. I need some low stuff like 800 grit to remove alot more material to get this chip back to flat.
> 
> It sure does have a mirror finish though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And its cooled by a modded H60 cooler with 240 rad. CPU is 4.5GHz with a 66C max in prime. 78F ambient.
> 
> 
> 
> I start with 220 - all the zinc plating should be gone before going further. Then I step up in grit from there 200 at a time. *Do the same to your block so it's completely flat as well*. When I did mine I got almost 10*C improvement in package Temps
> 
> My favorite part about the lapping is that if both are perfectly flat you only need to essentially 'tin' the surfaces with TIM. Fir my new build In going to try the Coollaboratories metallic
Click to expand...

Do not lap your block,there is a designed bow to the plate to enhance the contact pressure.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Lapping Processors and Waterblocks.







And they called me "The Crazy One"

TCO


----------



## szeged

you should delid then lap the bare die, i hear it works wonders.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> you should delid then lap the bare die, i hear it works wonders.


----------



## wermad

Manicorn It's-Over-9000! grit sand paper w/ unicorn tears does the trick on the bare die. i here -25°C at load with a nice wc loop









Placed my first aquatuning order, how soon do they ship? I like their painless checkout process







.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Manicorn It's-Over-9000! grit sand paper *w/ unicorn tears does the trick on the bare die. i here -25°C at load with a nice wc loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Placed my first aquatuning order, how soon do they ship? I like their painless checkout process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


WHo needs waterloop when you have the "Tears of a Maincorn"









TCO


----------



## wermad

That's back-order for at least a month







. regular unicorn tears will have to do for now.

edit: on topic - spent the day breaking down the part of my loop that was setup. Ended up changing the the heatshrink color on the fans (







). Still, no biggie since I'm missing one more rad (ordered already from aquatuning) and the radiator brackets for the TX10 should be in be the middle of next week.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That's back-order for at least a month
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . regular unicorn tears will have to do for now.


Will Milk from a Manicorn Work







, That would take about 3min One Handed to get a supply eh?









TCO


----------



## szeged




----------



## wermad

I'mma just go back watch the 24 heures du Mans.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ok Im Done

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Speaking of Le Mans can't wait to see the new Ford GT compete


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Speaking of Le Mans can't wait to see the new Ford GT compete


will we have a repeat of the gt 40? i hope so. The new gt looks so boss, maybe one day if i get in a horrible workplace accident and sue the company for millions ill be able to afford one.


----------



## wermad

As much of a fan of the GT (2005-06) and og GT40 I am, they had a poor outing recently with the private teams and I doubt they will have any success w/ the 2017 model. ITs all marketing ploys and eventually a privateer team will go at and will have little to no impact.

I"m more excited in the Audi, Porsche, and Toyota prototype classes. I'm little disappointed in Nissan but they're usually the odd-duck adventurers and I command them for that. I think they should have stuck with the delta a bit longer. Don Panoz would be proud of the Nissan gtr Lmp though







.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Lapping Processors and Waterblocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they called me "The Crazy One"
> 
> TCO


You never heard about lapping CPU before?

But yeah, I doubt you can see improvement lapping small CPU like SB (and the next gen afterwards) though but I would love to see the result anyway, especially comparison before & after.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You never heard about lapping CPU before?
> 
> But yeah, I doubt you can see improvement lapping small CPU like SB (and the next gen afterwards) though but I would love to see the result anyway, especially comparison before & after.


This is Me About to Work on a Loop with Liquid in it



I have delidded and Used CLU to get better temps on my 4770k.

But... Never... Not Once... Would I consider taking sandpaper to a Processor.

TCO


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I start with 220 - all the zinc plating should be gone before going further. Then I step up in grit from there 200 at a time. Do the same to your block so it's completely flat as well. When I did mine I got almost 10*C improvement in package Temps
> 
> My favorite part about the lapping is that if both are perfectly flat you only need to essentially 'tin' the surfaces with TIM. Fir my new build In going to try the Coollaboratories metallic


For the CLU, the instructions tell you to scuff up the surface with the provided steel wool so it adheres better. Any lapping then becomes pointless. The cpu and waterblock should both be slightly convex and make the most contact in the middle where the die is.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> will we have a repeat of the gt 40? i hope so. The new gt looks so boss, maybe one day if i get in a horrible workplace accident and sue the company for millions ill be able to afford one.


It sounds amazing to say the least:






I already know the Audi P1 car (R18) is going to kicka$$ in the P1 category as they always do


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You never heard about lapping CPU before?
> 
> But yeah, I doubt you can see improvement lapping small CPU like SB (and the next gen afterwards) though but I would love to see the result anyway, especially comparison before & after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is Me About to Work on a Loop with Liquid in it
> 
> 
> 
> I have delidded and Used CLU to get better temps on my 4770k.
> 
> But... Never... Not Once... Would I consider taking sandpaper to a Processor.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

That is not rhetorical question actually. Anyway, you sort of answered it. Lapping delid-able-gen CPUs is pointless anyway since they're delidable.

Good luck with your loop!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That is not rhetorical question actually. Anyway, you sort of answered it. Lapping delid-able-gen CPUs is pointless anyway since they're delidable.
> 
> Good luck with your loop!











Not sure what just Happened.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It sounds amazing to say the least:
> 
> I already know the Audi P1 car (R18) is going to kicka$$ in the P1 category as they always do


Its still early but porsche is leading and not too far behind the 2nd and 3rd audi. I'm shocked Toy has lagged but I guess they'll be pushing better hardware next year to keep pace on par w/ the VW group brands. Its very likely, Audi will win again but you never know, and we may end up w/ a Porsche "corporate" win a'la Bentley







.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It sounds amazing to say the least:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already know the Audi P1 car (R18) is going to kicka$$ in the P1 category as they always do


Very sexy and sounds great... Would love to see it do well at Lemans, but its going to have a rough time against the Audi's..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Very sexy and sounds great... Would love to see it do well at Lemans, but its going to have a rough time against the Audi's..


That won't compete w/ the Audi's. It should compete in the GTE class (Vette, Porsche gt3, Aston, Viper, etc. ). Ford would need to invest millions into creating a prototype class car and ensure it can compete w/ the juggernaut of audi and contend newbies Porsche, Toyota, and now Nissan. I doubt it since Ford manages its monies better then gm and chrysler. More then likely, we'll see a private team at Le mans in 17 or 18' and we'll see this in the US sports car racing series as well. The TT eco v6 has been ran in the Daytona prototypes and is showing good promise. I'm hoping for 700-750hp for the production 2017 GT.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hoping I can make it out to Petit Le Mans this year at Road Atlanta, definitely bringing the camera if one of my friends can get me staff passes

Debating on adding a 240 of another 360 to JAC since I hope to add another GPU really soon


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That won't compete w/ the Audi's. It should compete in the GTE class (Vette, Porsche gt3, Aston, Viper, etc. ). Ford would need to invest millions into creating a prototype class car and ensure it can compete w/ the juggernaut of audi and contend newbies Porsche, Toyota, and now Nissan. I doubt it since Ford manages its monies better then gm and chrysler. More then likely, we'll see a private team at Le mans in 17 or 18' and we'll see this in the US sports car racing series as well. The TT eco v6 has been ran in the Daytona prototypes and is showing good promise. I'm hoping for 700-750hp for the production 2017 GT.


My bad I put it with the wrong class...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Lapping Processors and Waterblocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they called me "The Crazy One"
> 
> TCO


You *can* lapp AIO cooling blocks like the Corsair h50/h60. Those are not bowed.

Cannot lapp Dedicated blocks because as Bneg stated it is bowed to optimize the contact between the block and the CPU.

I lapped my h50 when I had one and given that this is an h60, shouldn't hurt it. Should lower the temps a bit more too.









Update: We get to go home tonite. Since we left the car home for my Mother in Law to run our daughter around my brother will be picking us up late tonite to get home even later. For some reason I've got "Thief in the night" running through my head atm.









*Edit* I shaved roughly 15c of my temps when I took paper to my 955BE. And that was when I was running h50 as my cooler of choice (I miss that cooler. Not enough to replace my loop but that cooler was pretty solid given that it's well behind what Corsair has out now.) you should try it at least once but you *ARE* the Cautious One.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Wish me luck folks. Making room for the reservoir...


----------



## Hambone07si

Good LUCK Gabrielzm!!









wish me luck too, I drained my loop and making the rest of my hard lines. I hope to get it all done tonight and without a leak so I can get back to some GTA V and TW3









Long tube fits perfect


All the fittings installed on this side of the gpu. Only need 2 on the other side


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Wish me luck folks. Making room for the reservoir...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


gabe.. may i ask why u not fixing that panel to anything for better cutting?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> gabe.. may i ask why u not fixing that panel to anything for better cutting?


No need mate. The jigsaw have a perfect conntrol, no slide sideways and a straight cut. The difficult part are the corners


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No need mate. The jigsaw have a perfect conntrol, no slide sideways and a straight cut. The difficult part are the corners


I would use a drill and drill the corners man.. = WAY easier than going through it

u can always file after


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I would use a drill and drill the corners man.. = WAY easier than going through it
> 
> u can always file after


Yep, reach the same conclusion while taking a break







Thks Ram.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No need mate. The jigsaw have a perfect conntrol, no slide sideways and a straight cut. The difficult part are the corners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would use a drill and drill the corners man.. = WAY easier than going through it
> 
> u can always file after
Click to expand...

An electric nibbler would be a better way to go. Jigsaws work but for light sheetmetal, my choice is a nibbler.









You can get an electric from Northern Tool Company for ~$60

or you can get this:



from Eastwood or JEGS.

Much easier and less opportunity for warpage to occur. I learned at a very early age that there is a tool for every job.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> An electric nibbler would be a better way to go. Jigsaws work but for light sheetmetal, my choice is a nibbler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get an electric from Northern Tool Company for ~$60
> 
> or you can get this:
> 
> 
> 
> from Eastwood or JEGS.
> 
> Much easier and less opportunity for warpage to occur. I learned at a very early age that there is a tool for every job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


From the picture just to make sure it can cut corners and circles no problem. Looks like sheet metal cutters which for me have the now the metal up to continue the cut or do these worm different


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You *can* lapp AIO cooling blocks like the Corsair h50/h60. Those are not bowed.
> 
> Cannot lapp Dedicated blocks because as Bneg stated it is bowed to optimize the contact between the block and the CPU.
> 
> I lapped my h50 when I had one and given that this is an h60, shouldn't hurt it. Should lower the temps a bit more too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update: We get to go home tonite. Since we left the car home for my Mother in Law to run our daughter around my brother will be picking us up late tonite to get home even later. For some reason I've got "Thief in the night" running through my head atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* I shaved roughly 15c of my temps when I took paper to my 955BE. And that was when I was running h50 as my cooler of choice (I miss that cooler. Not enough to replace my loop but that cooler was pretty solid given that it's well behind what Corsair has out now.) you should try it at least once but you *ARE* the Cautious One.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have done a ton of crazy things or "Uncautious" as some would say, although I've never found myself saying, Man I should try to make this shiny plate that is going to touch my Processor, More Shiny









Don't know what it is about it, I just feel as though taking some sand paper to a piece of metal is unnecessary. Forbid the fact I might do it wrong and get worse temps than before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Wish me luck folks. Making room for the reservoir...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good luck mate, That seems a tad drastic









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> An electric nibbler would be a better way to go. Jigsaws work but for light sheetmetal, my choice is a nibbler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get an electric from Northern Tool Company for ~$60
> 
> or you can get this:
> 
> 
> 
> from Eastwood or JEGS.
> 
> Much easier and less opportunity for warpage to occur. I learned at a very early age that there is a tool for every job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That is great. Wish I live in US. Never saw one those down here. In any case the internal hole is done. The external will be another day...

something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Electric-Sheet-Cutting-Shears/dp/B002T4MBES/ref=sr_1_23?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1434233344&sr=1-23&refinements=p_n_power_source_browse-bin%3A2380555011


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> An electric nibbler would be a better way to go. Jigsaws work but for light sheetmetal, my choice is a nibbler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get an electric from Northern Tool Company for ~$60
> 
> or you can get this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from Eastwood or JEGS.
> 
> Much easier and less opportunity for warpage to occur. I learned at a very early age that there is a tool for every job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the picture just to make sure it can cut corners and circles no problem. Looks like sheet metal cutters which for me have the now the metal up to continue the cut or do these worm different
Click to expand...

I am sure that it can. So long as you can follow a line. Now obviously some circles won't be able to be cut by a nibbler when the radius is too tight. But for things like a 120mm circle or larger, no problemo.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

I saw some instrument guys using this tool today would be great to have for doing stainless or copper guy whipped up a long complex piece of stainless in a jiff

http://youtu.be/Eo95bjm7WFM

Swagelok makes them but they r pricey!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I saw some instrument guys using this tool today would be great to have for doing stainless or copper guy whipped up a long complex piece of stainless in a jiff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swagelok makes them but they r pricey!


I believe that Bneg has one of them. An dangeditall if I want one!









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I saw some instrument guys using this tool today would be great to have for doing stainless or copper guy whipped up a long complex piece of stainless in a jiff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swagelok makes them but they r pricey!
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that Bneg has one of them. An dangeditall if I want one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Damn right you do..not cheap tho.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I saw some instrument guys using this tool today would be great to have for doing stainless or copper guy whipped up a long complex piece of stainless in a jiff
> 
> http://youtu.be/Eo95bjm7WFM
> 
> Swagelok makes them but they r pricey!


Mind Blown.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I saw some instrument guys using this tool today would be great to have for doing stainless or copper guy whipped up a long complex piece of stainless in a jiff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swagelok makes them but they r pricey!
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that Bneg has one of them. An dangeditall if I want one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Damn right you do..*not cheap tho*.....
Click to expand...

Over $400 retail for the 1/2" size:

https://www.shamrocksupply.com/searchPH.action?RFP=SP&keyWord=swagelok%20bender

Could probably find it a bit cheaper on fleabay or used, but Swagelok is damn proud of their stuff for sure!

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=&_osacat=104220&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC1.A0.H0.Xswagelok+bender.TRS0&_nkw=swagelok+bender&_sacat=104220

D.


----------



## wermad

Cheap ebay 1/2" bender ~$40. Name brands ~$200.


----------



## Hambone07si

Yeah 1/2" jumps a bunch in price. you can get a 3/8 tube bender / mandrel for around $40-60 but they aren't as nice as that one, but it works.

Well I'm almost done. The VRM > Gpu tube was fun


----------



## wermad

The guy from oz who went with rocketscience mentioned in his log it gets more challenging doing 1/2 tube. I went to Homes a while back to check out their copper and the 1/2 doesnt seem as maulable as the 3/8 stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

I will have to wait for that specific tool then. I want it, but I have a Mod to complete and while that tool would certainly be helpful for mapping out tubing runs for my acrylic bending(form tool), as well as swapping out to Copper later on.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The guy from oz who went with rocketscience mentioned in his log it gets more challenging doing 1/2 tube. I went to Homes a while back to check out their copper and the 1/2 doesnt seem as maulable as the 3/8 stuff.


Yea I work with copper everyday the bigger the pipe the harder is to bend clean and the bigger the radius. It can be done just harder. I use my hands at work most of the time unless they want it perfect in which I have a yellow jacket pipe bender for 1/4-3/8 copper than 1/3-7/8 copper. Also in my opinon I like to kneel the copper by heating it up than bending. I have to do that on large pipe 7/8 on up or any hard copper to give it that nice bend with the least braze joints as possible. But you must run nitrogen through to keep it clean while doing this or you will get black sut which is annoying to clean with nitrogen it comes out shining. Seeing I have compressors and evaps and cond could on hand been thinking of doing my own phase change pc project


----------



## wermad

I wouldn't use this tool for acrylic tube. It will probably damage it.


----------



## p5ych00n5

This is probably a stupid question but hey here goes, would having the reservoir mounted in front of a radiator in push have a negative impact on temps ie: would it block airflow and after a while with equilibrium affect the temps of the water in the actual reservoir considering that warm radiator air is constantly flowing over it .

EDIT: To make things even more clear as mud:



NVM


----------



## Trestles126

Loop is pretty much done besides adding the second ek d5 clean csq pump which should be here early next week. And installed after the ram block need to figure a clean way to mount it horizontal off the mid rail mobo support.


----------



## emsj86

Looks good how was the s8 over the luxe?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Loop is pretty much done besides adding the second ek d5 clean csq pump which should be here early next week. And installed after the ram block need to figure a clean way to mount it horizontal off the mid rail mobo support.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your Photobucket pics failed. You can get IMG links predone via PB so I'm not sure what you were doing here codewise.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I wouldn't use this tool for acrylic tube. It will probably damage it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Looks good how was the s8 over the luxe?


Just better across board. No plastic disembles with ease the mother board trays help a ton... Plus I'm supporting a company 20 miles from me and made in the USA


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Loop is pretty much done besides adding the second ek d5 clean csq pump which should be here early next week. And installed after the ram block need to figure a clean way to mount it horizontal off the mid rail mobo support.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's look good.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Loop is pretty much done besides adding the second ek d5 clean csq pump which should be here early next week. And installed after the ram block need to figure a clean way to mount it horizontal off the mid rail mobo support.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your Photobucket pics failed. You can get IMG links predone via PB so I'm not sure what you were doing here codewise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

What do you mean? I can see the pics no problem.


----------



## jon666

I thought you had to heat up acrylic to bend it?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I thought you had to heat up acrylic to bend it?


If you're referring to hand tube bender a couple pages back, that is for bending copper/steel tube.


----------



## Fantasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Loop is pretty much done besides adding the second ek d5 clean csq pump which should be here early next week. And installed after the ram block need to figure a clean way to mount it horizontal off the mid rail mobo support.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the build. Although I never understood why would you water cool your memory. I guess its just for the aesthetic. Either way your build looks awesome


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Loop is pretty much done besides adding the second ek d5 clean csq pump which should be here early next week. And installed after the ram block need to figure a clean way to mount it horizontal off the mid rail mobo support.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome Mate







, but I'm getting this weird optical illusion where the part of the board with the CPU and Memory blocks are is raised compared to the rest of the board


----------



## RpeeKooz

hey guys..just looking to add a ram block and change my loop a little bit..im using acrylic atm but i cant find any of that in Australia..i can only find the petg is it ok to have half a loop of petg and half of arcylic ?????
cheers


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ok,got my 24/7 OC finished,not a screamer but more than enough for the hot summer ambients and limited rad space.

Just settling in for some Eliteangerous...



And core temps from a 1h OCCT run.















Amazingly,the Corsair Link has caused no problems.....doesnt give full control over speeds but knowing what Corsair specs their fans with PWM wise,im not surprised.

Lots of BIOS and in OS tinkering to get the USB working as it should tho.


----------



## catbuster

Nice setup B !


----------



## andl

Summer time, flip


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I wouldn't use this tool for acrylic tube. It will probably damage it.


I stated stainless and cooper. Would deffinetly damage acrylic


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ok,got my 24/7 OC finished,not a screamer but more than enough for the hot summer ambients and limited rad space.
> 
> Just settling in for some Eliteangerous...


Link to headphone stand plzzzz!!!

I've been in HUGE need of a stand for my G35 headphones


----------



## Gabrielzm

Internal panel done. You can also see the tubing from cpu to gpu block. Need to figure out a more efficient way to cut the external panel. Maybe laser cut it on a local shop?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Internal panel done. You can also see the tubing from cpu to gpu block. Need to figure out a more efficient way to cut the external panel. Maybe laser cut it on a local shop?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! The tubes aligned nicely.


----------



## jagdtigger

I just finished assembling the cooling in the new case but i have problems with the two DDC pump. First the new one did not worked in the dual DDC top, i tried it with a phobia single top and it worked. I swapped them and now both run at max speed but they making a noise and i dont think its healthy:


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ok,got my 24/7 OC finished,not a screamer but more than enough for the hot summer ambients and limited rad space.
> 
> Just settling in for some Eliteangerous...
> 
> 
> 
> And core temps from a 1h OCCT run.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazingly,the Corsair Link has caused no problems.....doesnt give full control over speeds but knowing what Corsair specs their fans with PWM wise,im not surprised.
> 
> Lots of BIOS and in OS tinkering to get the USB working as it should tho.


Spectacular! That copper! Did ek decide the winners get of that survey?


----------



## Trestles126

Anyone have one of these boogers lying around in the states that they can part with performance is out and I need uno!


----------



## wermad

Slowly coming together:



Congrats to Porsche btw







. Sad to see TK retire







.


----------



## psycho84

Some new Pics from my Rig









Custom Cables ftw ^^


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice! The tubes aligned nicely.


Thks







I like those lines. Two more will come in parallel from the GPU to the front of the case and dive before the reservoir. This is what I was hoping for: A perfect alignment between the reservoir, front of the case (you can judge by the Aquaero which is perfectly flush) and the return line from the top rad:


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some new Pics from my Rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom Cables ftw ^^


U need to paint dat sound card shroud green


----------



## psycho84

I will do ^^ Step by Step


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Internal panel done. You can also see the tubing from cpu to gpu block. Need to figure out a more efficient way to cut the external panel. Maybe laser cut it on a local shop?


Dat tube setup is the Bee Knees Gabe









TCO


----------



## TGBM

Love the build so far looks amazing! That green tho


----------



## PCSarge

figured id drop my build log link in here for you guys.

this will be my first serious build in about 5 years. feel free to drop in and have a look

http://www.overclock.net/t/1560320/build-log-ventura-case-labs-nova-x2m-z97-watercooling#post_24037033


----------



## emsj86

Probably old news but just left microcenter. They now sell and carry ek fittings, rads, and everything else ek related. They have acrylic and petg tubing coming in. Also all things primochill watercooling will be there shortly. Idk about you guys but this saves me so much in shipping plus I get to see the part before buying and I get my microcenter discount. This is awesome. Just got 4 ek 90s , ddc uni holder for 18usd


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Probably old news but just left microcenter. They now sell and carry ek fittings, rads, and everything else ek related. They have acrylic and petg tubing coming in. Also all things primochill watercooling will be there shortly. Idk about you guys but this saves me so much in shipping plus I get to see the part before buying and I get my microcenter discount. This is awesome. Just got 4 ek 90s , ddc uni holder for 18usd


They don't have everything but at least it's a start. Prices are reasonable too. Only a tad more expensive than PPCs, so it'll do for those that don't wish to shop exclusively with PPCs.









No Hardline fittings or tubing though. No tubing from EK at all either.









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Anyone know off hand if you can run rigid tubing with a EK DCP 4.0 pump/res?


----------



## Ceadderman

You can run hard line with any pump to my understanding.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They don't have everything but at least it's a start. Prices are reasonable too. Only a tad more expensive than PPCs, so it'll do for those that don't wish to shop exclusively with PPCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Hardline fittings or tubing though. No tubing from EK at all either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The manager brought it up on the computer . There shipping in the next month arylic tubing and primochill revolver fittings single and 4 pack of standard colors black, silver, blue, red. The tubing is in a single pack. He gave me one of the samples that were broke to check it out. They also plan to get primochill petg. But for sure they will have primochill revolver fittings and acrylic tubing and all different colors. Like yu said not everything but a lot better than it use to be. It's nice to go and need one or two fittings or a length of tubing and pick it up local and no shipping or wait. (Edit: nice that they have ek (mayhems) pastel concentrates) You can see some of what will be here soon if you go to the website and under the store locator select webstore which shows all stores and warehouse (note the tubing will only be single lengths and all different colors)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I bought up all the acrylic one of the locations had here in GA lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, figured as such. We have no MC over here. Closest is Texas so I did the website check. 3 pages and I noticed their pump mount says *with* fan. Probably a mistake but yeah. Someone may purchase an call Em on it.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

So where does one get stainless steal tubing for a build and what fittings work with it? Will primochill revolvers work. I really like the look and with my chrome fittings and black acteal Gpus blocks it will look simple but stunning


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out what tubing to use with what size ek fittings. I'm on mobile do that probably doesn't help, heh.


usually ek fittings are 3/8 x 5/8 for soft tube and 10/12 mm for rigid.

Thks TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out what tubing to use with what size ek fittings. I'm on mobile do that probably doesn't help, heh.


Ek sells 12mm and 16mm fittings. The size refers to the od of the acrylic tube (metric).Pricing is close to bp and I would go with bitspower as they look better then the EK stuff tbh.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ek sells 12mm and 16mm fittings. The size refers to the od of the acrylic tube (metric).Pricing is close to bp and I would go with bitspower as they look better then the EK stuff tbh.


+1 on Bitspower fittings... and Wer is correct EK also sell 16 mm rigid fittings.


----------



## deadwidesmile

What are bitspower rigid connectors designated as?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> What are bitspower rigid connectors designated as?


either this (c47):
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-mbwp-c47-g1-4-matte-black-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html

or the multi-link:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-bitspower-g1-4-matte-black-enhance-multi-link-for-acrylic-tube-od-12mm.html

c47 are smaller in diameter and sit flush with 45 or 90 degrees angle adapters. It have two internal o-rings. enhance Multi-link also have 2 internal o-rings but there is a cap too that you can unscrew and one of the o-rings then can be placed directly on the tube. That means the distance the tube need to slide in the multi-link is smaller that on the c47 (around 8 mm on c47 while in the multi-link is about 5 mm) if memory serves...


----------



## deadwidesmile

What tubing do you suggest?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Probably old news but just left microcenter. They now sell and carry ek fittings, rads, and everything else ek related. They have acrylic and petg tubing coming in. Also all things primochill watercooling will be there shortly. Idk about you guys but this saves me so much in shipping plus I get to see the part before buying and I get my microcenter discount. This is awesome. Just got 4 ek 90s , ddc uni holder for 18usd


Which store? I was just at the one in Dallas last week and they still had their typical weak selection, no EK stuff at all. Altex sells EK too but they don't stock it in their stores which defeats the purpose for me. You would think somewhere in Texas you could have a water cooling Walmart somewhere...


----------



## deadwidesmile

I think that about everywhere @Radnad


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> What tubing do you suggest?


I used ek and bitspower tube with 12 mm bitspower fittings without any problems. But personally, I found a local supplier of 12 mm tube that have a thick wall and I fall in love with it. I will take a picture of e22, ek and my local tube so you can see the difference and will update this post.

local>ek>e22 (from left to right)



edit - that hammered thumb was too disgusting...updated for the benefit of all..


----------



## Vintage

`````````````````````````````
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Probably old news but just left microcenter. They now sell and carry ek fittings, rads, and everything else ek related. They have acrylic and petg tubing coming in. Also all things primochill watercooling will be there shortly. Idk about you guys but this saves me so much in shipping plus I get to see the part before buying and I get my microcenter discount. This is awesome. Just got 4 ek 90s , ddc uni holder for 18usd


wow.... that's nice to hear. I went to my local MC a few months ago and the watercooling section was a relatively tiny cubby hidden in the back of the "DIY" section. Most of it was AIO's but they had a few BP reservoirs and XSPC rads.

Maybe i'll check there again.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> What are bitspower rigid connectors designated as?


C47s for the Win.





TCO

Or Some of the 90Degree with C47s?


----------



## Georgey123

Hey everyone, just opinions on these 2 rads for my new build. I can't seem to choose either? Performance is pretty similar but just wanted if anyone else could weigh in

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/31/ek-coolstream-xe-360mm-radiator-review/

or

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/29/hardware-labs-sr2-360mm-radiator-review/


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I used ek and bitspower tube with 12 mm bitspower fittings without any problems. But personally, I found a local supplier of 12 mm tube that have a thick wall and I fall in love with it. I will take a picture of e22, ek and my local tube so you can see the difference and will update this post.
> 
> local>ek>e22 (from left to right)
> 
> edit - that hammered thumb was too disgusting...updated for the befit of all..


Do you have a picture of that thick walled tubing with coolant in it? Mayhem's Pastel?

I'm thinking of ordering some thick walled acrylic; I'm hoping it's possible to see the walls of the acrylic differentiate from the coolant, on regular acrylic tubing it mostly goes to one color.


----------



## szeged

Trying to leak test the new loop, having trouble getting water through the loop with a d5 pump, jump the psu and the water level goes down extremely slow and you can see tiny bubbles coming back up through the bottom of the reservoir. Any ideas? Pump isn't making any unusual noises.

Seems like an airlock or something, I've got two res' full of water into the loop so far so it's moving water but it's doing it extremely slow compared to my past loops.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Trying to leak test the new loop, having trouble getting water through the loop with a d5 pump, jump the psu and the water level goes down extremely slow and you can see tiny bubbles coming back up through the bottom of the reservoir. Any ideas? Pump isn't making any unusual noises.


i had same with my loop. mump was not working properly. but started to work when i pulled it to the side and some strange babble come out. at that moment i thought my d5 is dead...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Trying to leak test the new loop, having trouble getting water through the loop with a d5 pump, jump the psu and the water level goes down extremely slow and you can see tiny bubbles coming back up through the bottom of the reservoir. Any ideas? Pump isn't making any unusual noises.
> 
> Seems like an airlock or something, I've got two res' full of water into the loop so far so it's moving water but it's doing it extremely slow compared to my past loops.


PWM D5?


----------



## szeged

It's a xspc d5 vario.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Do you have a picture of that thick walled tubing with coolant in it? Mayhem's Pastel?
> I'm thinking of ordering some thick walled acrylic; I'm hoping it's possible to see the walls of the acrylic differentiate from the coolant, on regular acrylic tubing it mostly goes to one color.


not yet but will have soon and will post here.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Trying to leak test the new loop, having trouble getting water through the loop with a d5 pump, jump the psu and the water level goes down extremely slow and you can see tiny bubbles coming back up through the bottom of the reservoir. Any ideas? Pump isn't making any unusual noises.
> 
> Seems like an airlock or something, I've got two res' full of water into the loop so far so it's moving water but it's doing it extremely slow compared to my past loops.


I had a similar issue with my d5, there were lots and lots of fine air bubbles come from the bottom and there was no circulation. I fiddled with the d5 vario speeds and gave it some time until the air lock gave way and circulation started. Not sure if i was good for the pump or not but today its still running fine. Hopefully you get it going.


----------



## szeged

It's still pushing water but super slow. It's taken me over an hour to get about 400ml of water into the loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you tried tilting your system during fill w/of powering your loop to gravity fill?









~Ceadder


----------



## szeged

Pump was airlocked, finally got past it and the loop filled within minutes. No leaks so far.

Gave my fill tube a little kiss and blew into the res to force water into the loop.


----------



## Georgey123

Hahahaha, glad you got it going, good luck with the rest of the leak test. Also, we want PICS







.


----------



## TGBM

Lets just hope that there are no floods had one and it sucked so bad!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Pump was airlocked, finally got past it and the loop filled within minutes. No leaks so far.
> 
> Gave my fill tube a little kiss and blew into the res to force water into the loop.


Yup, pretty much similar case whenever I initially filling the loop with coolant but once the coolant successfully go through the top radiator, it'll get better.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Pump was airlocked, finally got past it and the loop filled within minutes. No leaks so far.
> 
> Gave my fill tube a little kiss and blew into the res to force water into the loop.


I've yet to have this problem and I'm extremely grateful. Being fairly new to custom loops I would have panicked and relatively crapped my pants if a ~$130 + pump just didn't work - lol.

Glad it worked. Take some pictures ASAP and show that ish off.


----------



## szeged

pump never made any noise like it was dying or breaking so i never got worried really, just made me mad that a d5 on speed 5 was taking its sweet ass time to fill the loop lol.

ill take some pics tomorrow, gonna get a new backdrop for pics and hopefully some new lighting.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> pump never made any noise like it was dying or breaking so i never got worried really, just made me mad that a d5 on speed 5 was taking its sweet ass time to fill the loop lol.
> 
> ill take some pics tomorrow, gonna get a new backdrop for pics and hopefully some new lighting.


My favorite part of any watercooled build is the filling of the loop so much tension and excitement will it leak will it not will it work AHHHH


----------



## fast_fate

EK SE leakage









Info and 1st look pics later in the usual place


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> EK SE leakage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Info and 1st look pics later in the usual place


Schmexy


----------



## TGBM

Those would have been so helpful in my current Parvum build


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> My favorite part of any watercooled build is the filling of the loop so much tension and excitement will it leak will it not will it work AHHHH


http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101


----------



## DarthBaggins

Do have to say those EK rads are sessi beasts, wish they made the xtx models in 360's


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101


EK should make a leak test kit like that.









What? Mayhem sell a cleaning kit, why a brand couldn't make a leak test kit


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> EK should make a leak test kit like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What? Mayhem sell a cleaning kit, why a brand couldn't make a leak test kit


Because some of us need to fail horribly to learn the correct way.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Which store? I was just at the one in Dallas last week and they still had their typical weak selection, no EK stuff at all. Altex sells EK too but they don't stock it in their stores which defeats the purpose for me. You would think somewhere in Texas you could have a water cooling Walmart somewhere...


It was the the philadelphia.pa location (but it's actually Villanova, pa. Wish it was a tad closer about 30 mins on the weekend and 1.5 hours sitting the week with traffic


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> EK should make a leak test kit like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What? Mayhem sell a cleaning kit, why a brand couldn't make a leak test kit


http://www.overclock.net/t/1546511/you-can-help-create-new-products-ek/200#post_24040211


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Do have to say those EK rads are sessi beasts, wish they made the xtx models in 360's




http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_297_1683&products_id=28953


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ooh I want two of those, too bad they're all the way in Australia and turns out EK is out of stock on them


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Because some of us need to fail horribly to learn the correct way.
> 
> TCO


lol....splish splash he was taking a bath.


----------



## Hambone07si

The D5 pump can fill a loop very easily. As long as you have no blockages or anything, it should fill very quick. I have the EK 140 X-res D5 vario set to 4 in this video. I had to stop the video 5 times to refill my res. But you can see how easy the flow is and how fast it's moving by the video. Once my loop is full and I don't have to turn the pump off, then I hook up my 2nd D5 too and run them both and then that gets all the air out of the loop instantly.

Take a look if you wish








https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJbO4tliC6M&feature=youtu.be


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Ooh I want two of those, too bad they're all the way in Australia and turns out EK is out of stock on them


I love my XTX's hefty enough you could pummel someone (joking) and the deepest screwset????? that it's almost a shroud in itself


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's why i want a pair, they would fit nicely in the pedestal in my M8. Other than the magicool's are working very well for now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK should make a leak test kit like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What? Mayhem sell a cleaning kit, why a brand couldn't make a leak test kit
Click to expand...

Already spoken to Niko about it,EK are not going to release one as any damages thru over pressurizing would get landed on them,a reasonable standpoint by any manufacturer.


----------



## VSG

There's also the part where floating core rads are susceptible to punctures easier too. One would need to be careful when using the newer EK rads.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm always paranoid over puncturing a rad when I put the screws in for the fans


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'm always paranoid over puncturing a rad when I put the screws in for the fans


aren't we all


----------



## p5ych00n5

That's why I like HW Labs and others little metal plate that sits under the mounting holes.

Ek's one where the actual tubes are offset and don't run under the mounting holes so if you're a klutz you only damage fins I like as well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Already spoken to Niko about it,EK are not going to release one as any damages thru over pressurizing would get landed on them,a reasonable standpoint by any manufacturer.


I can imagine the more impatient ones would use something like this........


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> That's why I like HW Labs and others little metal plate that sits under the mounting holes.
> 
> *Ek's one where the actual tubes are offset* and don't run under the mounting holes so if you're a klutz you only damage fins I like as well
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Already spoken to Niko about it,EK are not going to release one as any damages thru over pressurizing would get landed on them,a reasonable standpoint by any manufacturer.
> 
> 
> 
> I can imagine the more impatient ones would use something like this........
Click to expand...

The best way of doing it,I am still amazed that manufacturers have not put much thought that way......

Blocks and stuff can take a bit of pressure,rads...very much less so.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The best way of doing it,I am still amazed that manufacturers have not put much thought that way......
> 
> Blocks and stuff can take a bit of pressure,rads...very much less so.


I always thought the best method was to cross your fingers and look at the sky for help









TCO


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I bet he's not. For a sole reason that he needs a build log to enter MOTM.


Well, Im sure that one would be flagged!!!


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Looks awesome Mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I'm getting this weird optical illusion where the part of the board with the CPU and Memory blocks are is raised compared to the rest of the board


I am glad I was the not the only one.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Already spoken to Niko about it,EK are not going to release one as any damages thru over pressurizing would get landed on them,a reasonable standpoint by any manufacturer.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The best way of doing it,I am still amazed that manufacturers have not put much thought that way......
> 
> Blocks and stuff can take a bit of pressure,rads...very much less so.


Yeah it's the only implementation of it I've experienced, most rely on that little plate or end users common sense but to err is Human I suppose


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Already spoken to Niko about it,EK are not going to release one as any damages thru over pressurizing would get landed on them,a reasonable standpoint by any manufacturer.


Oh, that's too bad. One setup like this with a valve that release pressure when exceeding 10-12 PSI would do it (since the rad are tested with 1 bar (14 psi) according to EK site).


----------



## jagdtigger

I just solved the pump problem, accidentally pushed the pump and it stopped making sound. The top was misaligned for some reason... No matter, its solved and the two pump is working properly. For now im running only one until most of the bubbles disappear from the system:


Its a little bit tight but its way better than my previous case...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

How is the EK UV Lime Green coolant? Better yet, how is all the "new" coolants from EK? Is they on the "height" with Mayhems coolants?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> How is the EK UV Lime Green coolant? Better yet, how is all the "new" coolants from EK? Is they on the "height" with Mayhems coolants?


I know all there pastels our mayhems products rebranded. As for the normal transparent fluids I'm not sure if there creation or not


----------



## VSG

480mm version of the SE:









Comparing to it's two bigger brotthers (PE 480 and XE 480):





This is, for now, the slimmest retail 120mm size radiator on the market.


----------



## Ceadderman

What are the thicknesses from SE to XE?

I may have to change my list depending on that. PE is listed at 25mm on PPCs. So I would have thought SE would be thicker. But apparently SE stands for slim edition.

~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

SE: 26mm, PE: 38mm, XE: 60mm. Add in another 4-5mm from the extender ports on one side in all of them.


----------



## derickwm

Phanteks sent me a little something 
































































More Photos


----------



## Kimir

So what the SE/PE/XE mean? Slim edition, premium edition and extreme edition?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> So what the SE/PE/XE mean? Slim edition, premium edition and extreme edition?


PE is Performance Edition I think but that's about right.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Phanteks sent me a little something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> More Photos


It's not for Derrick if it doesn't have orange all over it.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> PE is Performance Edition I think but that's about right.


Performance make more sense indeed. But I thought, they came first while the XT/XTX lineup was still there and the appearance was "premium" with the casing and all.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Phanteks sent me a little something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> More Photos


the best primo, just love it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Phanteks sent me a little something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> 
> More Photos


Nice derick. Now start ordering new acrylic panels. Those are way too dark (I known a got a black primo....).


----------



## Vintage

That orange phanteks is stunning


----------



## wjturner78

its a primo day...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I know all there pastels our mayhems products rebranded. As for the normal transparent fluids I'm not sure if there creation or not


Hm, interesting, just a rebrand of Mayhems coolant.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 480mm version of the SE:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing to it's two bigger brotthers (PE 480 and XE 480):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is, for now, the slimmest retail 120mm size radiator on the market.


Is the XE replacing the XTX?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Is the XE replacing the XTX?


It already has.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It already has.


Should I be Glad I've already picked up 2 x 480 XTX or was there a vast improvement VSG?

TCO


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It already has.


Too bad, I really liked those XTX's. The new line of radiators from EK looks so ... meh. I have two EK PE 480s myself and compared to the XTX 480 it has a long way to go when it comes to aesthetics.







Performance is not really a big problem with the 480s anyways (at least not in my experience), so it comes down to aesthetics.

Are they discontinuing the XTC-line as well?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Should I be Glad I've already picked up 2 x 480 XTX or was there a vast improvement VSG?
> 
> TCO


I am glad I picked up an EK XTX 480 myself.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> you should delid then lap the bare die, i hear it works wonders.


Has anybody used mothers mag and billet polish on the ihs?

I used it to polish my glock's and 1911 internals so I have a bunch laying around. Seemed to do a damn good job at creating that mirror shine.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Has anybody used mothers mag and billet polish on the ihs?
> 
> I used it to polish my glock's and 1911 internals so I have a bunch laying around. Seemed to do a damn good job at creating that mirror shine.


It should be fine, I've used auto Polish on copper and nickel plating before. Also autosol is the best I've used.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> It should be fine, I've used auto Polish on copper and nickel plating before. Also autosol is the best I've used.


I haven't heard of autosol. I'll check it out though. I think I'll take a steel wool pad to it first or that coarse sponge that comes with the clu package with a little mothers and polish it right up. Should be quicker than using sandpaper.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 480mm version of the SE:
> This is, for now, the slimmest retail 120mm size radiator on the market.


This has my interest.

I do have a question. I currently run my 3 980's in parallel. I will be adding a 4th gpu to the loop, and I have fittings coming with the new block and card. Should I stick with parallel and a single D5 pump? I still like the idea of semi parallel, and may put both systems in semi once I have enough fittings.. I figured I would request help before making a move this time, lol.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Should I be Glad I've already picked up 2 x 480 XTX or was there a vast improvement VSG?
> 
> TCO


I never had the XTX but the newer XE is not low airflow optimized. If you have fans in push-pull or some high performance fans in push or pull then the XE will be a better deal. The aesthetics are a personal thing of course.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Too bad, I really liked those XTX's. The new line of radiators from EK looks so ... meh. I have two EK PE 480s myself and compared to the XTX 480 it has a long way to go when it comes to aesthetics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Performance is not really a big problem with the 480s anyways (at least not in my experience), so it comes down to aesthetics.
> 
> Are they discontinuing the XTC-line as well?
> 
> I am glad I picked up an EK XTX 480 myself.


Yeah XTC is going to be replaced by the Coolstream CE. This will have a similar look to the SE/PE/XE rads. The new series will also have a quad size (560mm) so that's also new.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> This has my interest.
> 
> I do have a question. I currently run my 3 980's in parallel. I will be adding a 4th gpu to the loop, and I have fittings coming with the new block and card. Should I stick with parallel and a single D5 pump? I still like the idea of semi parallel, and may put both systems in semi once I have enough fittings.. I figured I would request help before making a move this time, lol.


two cards in parallel linked in serial to another block of two cards. Chances are with 4 cards in parallel flow within each card might become an issue. something like this:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1302710/need-help-quad-gpu-dual-parallel-setup/10#post_18096672


----------



## batmanwcm

When are these EK SE radiators releasing at performance-pc's? I need a 240mm for my build. It will match my PE 240 nicely.


----------



## VSG

Only they would know for sure. Email them and ask.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> two cards in parallel linked in serial to another block of two cards. Chances are with 4 cards in parallel flow within each card might become an issue. something like this:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1302710/need-help-quad-gpu-dual-parallel-setup/10#post_18096672


So, yes on the semi parallel? Semi is the top two connected in parallel and bottom twotwo in parallel with a single connector, as I tried previously but had the wrong fittings.

I figured that 4 in parallel may cause one, maybe even two, to lose pressure and flow would be terrible. I don't like series personally.

This was the previous setup, but the fittings were 16mm and tubing was 5/8. I replaced the fittings and have more on the way to fix everything I was trying to do.




Thank you. I appreciate the help.


----------



## Georgey123

Still can't decide between the new XE Ek rads or Hardware labs SR2s. I guess with vardars the XE rads will really work well


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah XTC is going to be replaced by the Coolstream CE. This will have a similar look to the SE/PE/XE rads. The new series will also have a quad size (560mm) so that's also new.


I do not like the new look, so I am glad I have the radiators I will use for a while. XTX 480, XTC 420, 2x PE 480s. Would like to have a look at the new 560mm though, that sounds interesting.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Still can't decide between the new XE Ek rads or Hardware labs SR2s. I guess with vardars the XE rads will really work well


I would have gone with the SR2s over the XE, the EK PE radiators feel a bit cheap to me, they do the work, but they are nothing to look at. If I had not gone with the radiators I did I would have gotten the Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480, that is better looking than the SR2 and all of the EK radiators in my mind. SR2 would have been my second choice, taken in mind that those radiators is not for sale in Norway and would have been 30% more expensive than EK for me, because of taxes and shipping from some other country.


----------



## VSG

I believe that HardwareLabs has a new distributor for Europe coming in soon.


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't know about that. I have HWLabs 360 Stealth and while it's very nice, the modability is next to nil compared to EKs newest lineup of Radiators. I Can an will do some modding of whichever EK Radiators I acquire. An the mod will be extreme. If I can swing it. Have to get one apart to see what I have in front of me. So the idea I have is firmly lodged and waiting to be unleashed before I act a fool an announce my intentions.









I will be taking pics of both mfr models side by side an posting them here an my build log.









Won't be til early July though, so unless somebody beats me to it stay tuned.









~Ceadder


----------



## Onyxian

I was originally going for all Hardware Labs radiators but it seems the 420 won't fit in the top of the Primo so I'll go with EK instead. Still have to remeasure the bottom for the 280.


----------



## VSG

Check out the LS and LX series on PPCs. They are a bit of an unrecognized series of rads. Heck I myself had no idea until recently.

I'll see if I can get an LS rad and see how it works out vs the other slim rads here.

As far as EK rads and modding goes, for sure the removable core is great. I wish they provided the tool for it, and also used the bars in the middle like the XSPC AX to help counter the flexing.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It was the the philadelphia.pa location (but it's actually Villanova, pa. Wish it was a tad closer about 30 mins on the weekend and 1.5 hours sitting the week with traffic


So MC's web store is showing EK stuff now and it says my local store has stuff in stock too.

http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.aspx?N=4294964774&Ntt=water+cooling&Ntk=all

They literally must have just gotten it stocked last week because I was just there at the beginning of last week. I can't wait to get back in town and go check out the stock.


----------



## Onyxian

Looking at those for myself, LX-420 is still too wide for me. LS-420 seems like it would fit but I have the room for a thick rad, just not a wide one.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Looking at those for myself, LX-420 is still too wide for me. LS-420 seems like it would fit but I have the room for a thick rad, just not a wide one.


I thought they were both the same in width? PPCs of course has the same specs for all the rads which makes no sense but the description says this:
Quote:


> The Black Ice® NEMESIS® LX is a more compact version of the Black Ice® NEMESIS® GTX® radiators with a 120mm/140mm narrower width, maintaining comparable performance and sharing the same build quality with their flagship Black Ice® counterparts


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I thought they were both the same in width? PPCs of course has the same specs for all the rads which makes no sense but the description says this:


Ah, I guess I had a hard time finding the LS on the Hardware Labs website so I just went from PPC which was a bad idea. The Hardware Labs website also confuses me a lot as it seems like there are two versions.


----------



## VSG

As far as I know the LX and LS are OEM versions and hence not really advertised. They are different from the retail GTS and GTX rads.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would hope that if their specs are wrong that they would pay return shipping. Would *seriously* be bent outta shape if I purchased anything large based on the specs only to find out that it's too big to fit my build after spending all that time researching specs to make sure it fit the planned location.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> So MC's web store is showing EK stuff now and it says my local store has stuff in stock too.
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.aspx?N=4294964774&Ntt=water+cooling&Ntk=all
> 
> They literally must have just gotten it stocked last week because I was just there at the beginning of last week. I can't wait to get back in town and go check out the stock.


I honestly stopped there just because I was working next door at the time and knew that since frozen shut down they lost there source. So I figured they had nothing but than boom all ek. Soon to have a lot of primochill. Use the website and under location use web store and if needed you can have free shipping to your local store if it's not on stock at your local store. To some it may be meh but it's a big deal to me because being still new to wc parts it's nice to open them up and see them first hand


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would hope that if their specs are wrong that they would pay return shipping. Would *seriously* be bent outta shape if I purchased anything large based on the specs only to find out that it's too big to fit my build after spending all that time researching specs to make sure it fit the planned location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's not wrong as much as the specs of one rad being used for all the others in the series. Ditto with CPU blocks where the description is copied across the entire series. I have given up telling them.


----------



## Ceadderman

It is wrong VSG. I got the 25mm thickness spec directly from PPCs for their 360 PE listing. Good thing that I've got 40mm of clearance available, to fit them into on both sides. Otherwise I would have to carve my doors to allow them to poke through instead of the fan banks only.

I am glad that I asked now instead of relying on cut an paste specs. Once I found out that PE are 38mm thick I pulled my mount off of the shelf an taped it to find that it will *just* fit. Imagine if I hadn't asked and purchased them and found otherwise.









Not mad, not hating. Just could see how this mod could a gone wrong pretty quickly considering that I will be getting shrouds to cover the 360 banks and the extra length would change the overall look.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Ah I thought you were talking about the Black Ice LX/LS rads. Where are you seeing 25mm for the rad thickness though? I just checked all four EK PE rads on PPCs and all list a 38mm thickness. For that very 360mm version, they have:

Dimensions: 400 x 130 x 38mm (L x W x H)


----------



## Ceadderman

Mobile. So it's possible that the text didn't work with my eyes being that my generic reading glasses have been misplaced. But I am reasonably certain that's what I read on the specification tab.









Nope. I went back to my wishlist and they fixed it. Kudos to PPCs for addressing the issue before it became an issue. tired ole eyes picked the text right up. I remember that the reason I decided on the PE was specifially because of the misprint. My HWLabs 360 stealth is 25mm and it surprised me that EK had a 25mm on the market at the time. So I threw a couple in my cart for my next order. But since I have clarified their locations 38mm is perfect and will actually allow me to put thin shrouds under the fan banks, a grill and filters on top and shroud over it all.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Cool! As far as I know there is no 25mm thick rad available on the market now. That is what makes the EK SE a unique rad at 26mm thick- for now.


----------



## fast_fate

Bitspower Leviathon rads are licensed HWLabs Nemesis LS series.
Bitspower list their 360mm version - BP-NLS360-F2PB specs as...
"_Dimension (LxWxT):398x120x29.6MM
16 FPI 25 Micron Copper Fins_"
How is the model number NLS = Nemesis LS









HWLabs Nemesis LS-360



Bitspower BP-NLS360-F2PB


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah I thought you were talking about the Black Ice LX/LS rads. Where are you seeing 25mm for the rad thickness though? I just checked all four EK PE rads on PPCs and all list a 38mm thickness. For that very 360mm version, they have:
> 
> Dimensions: 400 x 130 x 38mm (L x W x H)


The EK PE is a 25mm thick core, and then there is shrouds on both sides of the core to make the 38mm thickness. It's really a low profile rad but is compared to medium thickness rads because of the overall thickness. The shrouds help that rad eliminate some of the hub size of the fans, that was their idea with the design.


----------



## timerwin63

So I'm looking for a 40-50mm thick "modular" 240mm rad that performs well. As it stands, it looks like my options are either the Watercool HTSF2 or the EK PE rad. Now xtremerigs has their reviews on them, and it seems like at ~1500 rpm where I'd have my AP-21s running, they'd be about equal in terms of performance. At this point, would it be an aesthetic choice, or would there be an actual reason to get one over the other?

I really like the HTSF2's fin design, and styling, but I don't really care for the brass threaded bits that stick out so far. Because of that, I'm having trouble deciding which rad would be better for me.

Edit: I forgot to mention the AX240. I don't have any experience with XSPC rads, are they any good?


----------



## Ramzinho

Feels like trivial humble work compared what you guys can do.. but this is the best i can do with the access to stuff i have available where i live.


----------



## electro2u

Thermaltake?! Killllllllllll

Jk. I like it Ramzi.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Feels like trivial humble work compared what you guys can do.. but this is the best i can do with the access to stuff i have available where i live.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work Ramz. Got a build log?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Cool! As far as I know there is no 25mm thick rad available on the market now. That is what makes the EK SE a unique rad at 26mm thick- for now.


Actually, I believe my HWLabs 360 stealth is 25mm in thickness. I have a Swiftech 240/360 external Rad mount that is 40mm internally and my current radiator has quite a bit us unused space on that mount. Between 10 to 15mm worth of clearance to the edge of it.









If PE has a shroud incorporated to the body, performance should be quite nice with 3 of them in the loop. Holding off on the 3rd til I get confirmation that EK won't have a crossflow available by October. I asked in the EK threads an Tiborrr sounded as though they're working on one.







I really hope that they are. Though I could see how it may not come to fruition, considering how this current lineup disassemnles. Having a single ports on both sides and retaining the feature may be too difficult.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Thermaltake?! Killllllllllll
> 
> Jk. I like it Ramzi.


This was purchased 2 weeks before the ThermalFake Gate. And i was so clear i wont support that approach by TT. they have a great line up of cases. their CORE V line up is very good. just under exposured and not getting enough love. but trust me they are great water cooling case. BTW this exact case is that TT used for their Fractal Design Define R5 mock up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Nice work Ramz. Got a build log?


Yes Buddy, in My signature


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually, I believe my HWLabs 360 stealth is 25mm in thickness. I have a Swiftech 240/360 external Rad mount that is 40mm internally and my current radiator has quite a bit us unused space on that mount. Between 10 to 15mm worth of clearance to the edge of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Which model exactly? I know that HardwareLabs has had a couple of slim rads but those are very old now. Is it still available for sale in the market now?


----------



## Ceadderman

360 stealth. Yes currently still available. My size may be off as I just woke up(long baby night) but I'm relatively sure of the measurement.









~Ceadder


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually, I believe my HWLabs 360 stealth is 25mm in thickness. I have a Swiftech 240/360 external Rad mount that is 40mm internally and my current radiator has quite a bit us unused space on that mount. Between 10 to 15mm worth of clearance to the edge of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which model exactly? I know that HardwareLabs has had a couple of slim rads but those are very old now. Is it still available for sale in the market now?
Click to expand...

HL Black Ice GTS 360. It's 29.6mm thick actually. The tank is 26mm.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Whats a good "low fan speed" for my pretty dense EX 420? ~1200 RPM?

Edit: push only


----------



## emsj86

@b negative and others whom may know. Planning a 1/2 copper chrome plates tubing build. Or stainless steel tubing. Is there anything I should know or look out for using these materials. Meaning will using ek nickel gpu blocks cause a problem or will I need to add anything more than my mayhems pastel to keep from corrosion and gunk?


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I would have gone with the SR2s over the XE, the EK PE radiators feel a bit cheap to me, they do the work, but they are nothing to look at. If I had not gone with the radiators I did I would have gotten the Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480, that is better looking than the SR2 and all of the EK radiators in my mind. SR2 would have been my second choice, taken in mind that those radiators is not for sale in Norway and would have been 30% more expensive than EK for me, because of taxes and shipping from some other country.


Cheers for the input







, I haven't bought the rads yet. Just looking at the XtremeRigs reviews at the moment and its pretty neck and neck in some cases. Comparing the both as well due to them both being 60 mm rads. I'm leaning towards Hardware Labs but more research needs to be done. +rep


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @b negative and others whom may know. Planning a 1/2 copper chrome plates tubing build. Or stainless steel tubing. Is there anything I should know or look out for using these materials. Meaning will using ek nickel gpu blocks cause a problem or will I need to add anything more than my mayhems pastel to keep from corrosion and gunk?


Nope,you will be just fine,use a premix with an anti corrosion as usual.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Cheers for the input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I haven't bought the rads yet. Just looking at the XtremeRigs reviews at the moment and its pretty neck and neck in some cases. Comparing the both as well due to them both being 60 mm rads. I'm leaning towards Hardware Labs but more research needs to be done. +rep


I have been using the same Black Ice Extreme rads. (240mm and 360mm) in my 2008 build. I recently replaced my case and added a Black Ice L series Nemesis 360mm and sold the 240mm Extreme. Since I have used nothing but Hardware Labs rads. I can't really compare them to any other, but I have never had any issues with them and don't see myself replacing them with anything but another hardware labs rad.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Cheers for the input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I haven't bought the rads yet. Just looking at the XtremeRigs reviews at the moment and its pretty neck and neck in some cases. Comparing the both as well due to them both being 60 mm rads. I'm leaning towards Hardware Labs but more research needs to be done. +rep


Thank you for the rep.









On to the finish on the XE, if it is like the EK PE, it is not the same black color as the EK XTX 480, the PE is more grey/black than just black. Another factor to take in mind, the Hardware Labs do look good.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

First loop in a long time. My H220 died so I raided the parts closet and hit up Microcenter for a few things. Need to order GPU blocks and some rads. Not crazy about the rad I am using. Had it for years and do not even remember who made it. lol

But it is working. Just distilled water for now. Will add dye later. Thinking Maythems red with a touch of blue to make it darker.


----------



## drummer4261900

My first CPU loop its not perfect but it works. Kept having CPU overheating problems now I run at 25-30 degrees Celsius at it's max.



Swiftech 360mm Radiator
Swiftech MCP655 Pump
XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir
Phobya Nano-2G 120mm Fans x9
Primochill Advanced LRT 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD Bloodshed Red


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drummer4261900*
> 
> My first CPU loop its not perfect but it works. Kept having CPU overheating problems now I run at 25-30 degrees Celsius at it's max.
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech 360mm Radiator
> Swiftech MCP655 Pump
> XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir
> Phobya Nano-2G 120mm Fans x9
> Primochill Advanced LRT 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD Bloodshed Red


what is that your ambient temperature







?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> what is that your ambient temperature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


That does look pretty good. I believe that it's an AMD chip though and those don't really report accurate CPU temperatures. They are usually about 15 to 20 degrees higher than what they actually report. At least in my experience that's been the case.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That does look pretty good. I believe that it's an AMD chip though and those don't really report accurate CPU temperatures. They are usually about 15 to 20 degrees higher than what they actually report. At least in my experience that's been the case.


Can't get my core i5 below 50celsius under load on ambient 20


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Can't get my core i5 below 50celsius under load on ambient 20


Yeah, that's about right for an i5.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Careful on the touch of blue, I did that and it turned my loop purple


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> But it is working. Just distilled water for now. Will add dye later. Thinking Maythems red with a touch of blue to make it darker.


Don't add blue since it will make it purple. Just buy the mayhems red and add another darker red dye.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Don't add blue since it will make it purple. Just buy the mayhems red and add another darker red dye.


Mix the blue with about 100ml of water. One drop is all you need. Then add it to the red. Darkens it to a blood red color. You wont come close to even using all the 100ml. Just a little will do ya.


----------



## emsj86

Wouldn't brown or black dye help get darker red ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

An Ocean Blue mixed with the red will actually make it a darker red, I know I did that to one of my older loops and to get purple I had to use more of the blue and a little bit of the red vs blue and more red than blue made a darker red.


----------



## Trestles126

Psu cover out of acrylic not sure if I'm gonna do the republic of gamers underneath


----------



## VSG

Looks like the upcoming AMD Fury X comes with a true full cover CLC:


----------



## drummer4261900

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> what is that your ambient temperature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> what is that your ambient temperature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Not sure I have the Central Air on right now I live in Ohio where all summer you have to run your Central Air to survive. My thermostat is broken. Its been saying 75 degrees Fahrenheit for a couple weeks lol.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like the upcoming AMD Fury X comes with a true full cover CLC:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Isn't today the launch date?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Isn't today the launch date?


If by launch you meant a soft launch with some info out, yes. Hard launch begins later this week and continues into the fall for the various products.


----------



## electro2u

Gosh I hope there are enough of them and enough interest to cause some people to jump ship. I really want to add another 980 back to my system and I would love to pick one up off someone here at OCN FST... Finally got hired for a good job. Been looking for months









I couldn't be more relieved if I'd given birth to a kangaroo.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Gosh I hope there are enough of them and enough interest to cause some people to jump ship. I really want to add another 980 back to my system and I would love to pick one up off someone here at OCN FST... Finally got hired for a good job. Been looking for months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't be more relieved if I'd given birth to a kangaroo.


Congrats on the new job!!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Congrats on the new job!!


----------



## Prophet4NO1

For those about adding blue to red to make it darker. Found a video from Meyhems about it.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If by launch you meant a soft launch with some info out, yes. Hard launch begins later this week and continues into the fall for the various products.


No, I actually thought it was the physical release.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> No, I actually thought it was the physical release.


300 series cards are coming out this Thursday. Fury X next Wednesday. Fury is coming out July 14. Fury Nano later in the summer and dual Fiji in the fall.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Some progress folks:






second grommet not in place yet on the second gpu line. Just could not resist working on the tubes but the paint is still not cured so need to be careful...


----------



## Jakusonfire

[quote

second grommet not in place yet on the second gpu line. Just could not resist working on the tubes but the paint is still not cured so need to be careful...[/quote]

Good on you for trying something unique. Too many builds these days are just assemblies like Lego.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> second grommet not in place yet on the second gpu line. Just could not resist working on the tubes but the paint is still not cured so need to be careful...
> 
> 
> 
> Good on you for trying something unique. Too many builds these days are just assemblies like Lego.
Click to expand...

QFT.

+1

Etc,etc....


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Some progress folks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> second grommet not in place yet on the second gpu line. Just could not resist working on the tubes but the paint is still not cured so need to be careful...


What fittings are you using?


----------



## jagdtigger

Is it normal if my water level in the res drops by 15mm if i switch on the power for both ddc pumps?(I use hard tubing only.)


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Some progress folks:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> second grommet not in place yet on the second gpu line. Just could not resist working on the tubes but the paint is still not cured so need to be careful...


Looking at the size of that res, couldn't help thinking of all the comedians who've suggested I put fish in mine. Anyway occurred to me that a partitioned res could have fish in a separate half, giving that illusion, just for the lols? Has that been done already?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Is it normal if my water level in the res drops by 15mm if i switch on the power for both ddc pumps?(I use hard tubing only.)


How long have you run the Loop? Do you think there is still air in the Loop Possibly? Other than that, I see no Problem. You have a lot of Pressure from both pumps.

The Cautious One


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Looking at the size of that res, couldn't help thinking of all the comedians who've suggested I put fish in mine. Anyway occurred to me that a partitioned res could have fish in a separate half, giving that illusion, just for the lols? Has that been done already?


This has... lol

http://www.theluxuryspot.com/***-spotting-fish-tank-heels/

Found this

http://www.overclockers.com/fishtank-watercooling/


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Looking at the size of that res, couldn't help thinking of all the comedians who've suggested I put fish in mine. Anyway occurred to me that a partitioned res could have fish in a separate half, giving that illusion, just for the lols? Has that been done already?
> 
> 
> 
> This has... lol
> 
> http://www.theluxuryspot.com/***-spotting-fish-tank-heels/
> 
> Found this
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/fishtank-watercooling/
Click to expand...

Heels link no worky - 404 error

My concern would be running algae and fish poo through the system, hence the partitioned res idea to keep that separate.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Heels link no worky - 404 error
> 
> My concern would be running algae and fish poo through the system, hence the partitioned res idea to keep that separate.


Even if it was partitioned it would look neat at first (I guess), but would get nasty after awhile and would have to be maintained like a normal fish tank.

http://technabob.com/blog/2012/12/23/mens-fish-tank-platform-shoes/


----------



## alancsalt

If it was fully partitioned, and thus separate from loop, shouldn't be a problem. (or if it was a second removable tank behind the res creating the illusion of a fish tank res even)


----------



## By-Tor

If it was a separate removable tank setting behind or next to where you could remove it for cleaning It shouldn't be an issue.

You could always just use fake fish in the res. to have people make a double take on what they just seen...


----------



## Jflisk

Figured might as well join looks like some good info here. See either my old build log below or my picture for my newest build. Thanks in Advance


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Looking at the size of that res, couldn't help thinking of all the comedians who've suggested I put fish in mine. Anyway occurred to me that a partitioned res could have fish in a separate half, giving that illusion, just for the lols? Has that been done already?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> If it was a separate removable tank setting behind or next to where you could remove it for cleaning It shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> You could always just use fake fish in the res. to have people make a double take on what they just seen...


I have the plastic fish I was going to use still sitting on my desk. I think I'm really going to put it in my BayRes next time I open it up.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have the plastic fish I was going to use still sitting on my desk. I think I'm really going to put it in my BayRes next time I open it up.


Guess as long as it doesn't get sucked up against the res. outlet port and restrict flow is should be ok..

Would love to see pictures of that...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Looking at the size of that res, couldn't help thinking of all the comedians who've suggested I put fish in mine. Anyway occurred to me that a partitioned res could have fish in a separate half, giving that illusion, just for the lols? Has that been done already?
> 
> 
> 
> This has... lol
> 
> http://www.theluxuryspot.com/***-spotting-fish-tank-heels/
> 
> Found this
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/fishtank-watercooling/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Heels link no worky - 404 error
> 
> My concern would be running algae and fish poo through the system, hence the partitioned res idea to keep that separate.
Click to expand...

For that you can install filter but I more concern on the water pH level.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> If it was fully partitioned, and thus separate from loop, shouldn't be a problem. (or if it was a second removable tank behind the res creating the illusion of a fish tank res even)


By-Tor meant that if you have real fish in separate tank, you want to maintain it regularly because the water can become dirty quickly, just like the actual aquarium maintenance. You can use filtering system which basically a pump & filter to maintain the clarity of the water.

Planted aquarium would look nice though.


----------



## emsj86

Needs some sharks with freaking laser on there heads.


----------



## ozzy1925

2 days non stop sleeving job, done every single cable :
sata cables are from lutroo others are mdpc-x


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> [quote
> 
> second grommet not in place yet on the second gpu line. Just could not resist working on the tubes but the paint is still not cured so need to be careful...


Good on you for trying something unique. Too many builds these days are just assemblies like Lego.[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> QFT.
> 
> +1
> 
> Etc,etc....


Thks Jak and B







I agree on the Lego comment. I am always trying for a simple, clean minimalist look. Hope this one will go well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> What fittings are you using?


Bitspower C47 and some 45 and 90 degrees too.

Looking good ozzy. Those are good fans too.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Bitspower C47 and some 45 and 90 degrees too.
> 
> Looking good ozzy. Those are good fans too.


thanks mate , need to sleep but must wait 5 more hours for my rads (doing part1 mayhems blitz pro)


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How long have you run the Loop? Do you think there is still air in the Loop Possibly? Other than that, I see no Problem. You have a lot of Pressure from both pumps.
> 
> The Cautious One


Five or six hours, but not continuously... The two pumps push 180 l/h on this loop:
res->dual ddc->radiator 1->radiator2->CPU->GPU->flow meter->res
(radiator 1-2: alpahacool nexxxos xt45 360*120)

On the other hand 1 ddc could push around 160 l/h in the almost same loop(in that one i used an mo-ra 360).


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> 2 days non stop sleeving job, done every single cable :
> sata cables are from lutroo others are mdpc-x
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like my house - complete with a couple random toys and an unidentifiable white smudge on the floor!









Spent last night assembling my S8 pedestal and then removing the fan blades and labeling the fans, bushings and housing for 13 FF5 Vardars. Although tonight (if she hasn't made plans for us) will be painting all the fan blades, I can handle that. NOT looking forward to sleeving all the cables! Arg @ EK for making the FF5s red cabled. If they made the FF5s like like the F1-4s I wouldn't be modifying them

Congrats on a big job well done


----------



## wermad

Just arrived from Deutschland!

Super quick shipping! My kids got to the gummies and ate them before I knew what happened







.

Time to put everything together


----------



## VSG

You are such a Monsta guy


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just arrived from Deutschland!
> 
> Super quick shipping! My kids got to the gummies and ate them before I knew what happened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Time to put everything together


80MM thick if so - That's a beast


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You are such a Monsta guy


Lol, well the ocn ocd in me demands to keep things alike as much as possible. Was more then what I wanted to spend but sticking with 120s vs 140s saved me a bit of cash. I already had the adapters.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> 80MM thick if so - That's a beast


86mm...but strangely, the 140mm doesn't look as beefy as the 120s.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, well the ocn ocd in me demands to keep things alike as much as possible. Was more then what I wanted to spend but sticking with 120s vs 140s saved me a bit of cash. I already had the adapters.


Surprised you didn't go for the big triple 180mm itself. I shudder each time I see it here.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Surprised you didn't go for the big triple 180mm itself. I shudder each time I see it here.


CL got the adapter yet for that beast?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> CL got the adapter yet for that beast?


They made it EOL after I told them what the issue was









I am going to get some custom parts to make mine work. Amazing customer service as always.


----------



## wermad

They're not making a custom one?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They're not making a custom one?


The issue is with the case itself, not the rad mount. So they would have to re-work the pedestal at a very minimum, but also the case if they want to do a complete job. Given the lack of orders....


----------



## wermad

Did you share the possibility of doing a drop-in style mount for the top?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did you share the possibility of doing a drop-in style mount for the top?


Yeah a dual 540mm would just about work. I don't think they are in a position to introduce new parts now that existing ones have been temporarily cut!


----------



## stl drifter

Hey Lep. Have you finished the Dopamine build.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just arrived from Deutschland!
> 
> Super quick shipping! My kids got to the gummies and ate them before I knew what happened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Time to put everything together


The length and width are so long on that thing ... the height looks small compared to a 360


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just arrived from Deutschland!
> 
> Super quick shipping! My kids got to the gummies and ate them before I knew what happened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Time to put everything together


What fans are you using with this?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> What fans are you using with this?


Probably Corsair SP120s High Performance (2350rpm) or Quiet Edition (1450rpm) in push/pull on a controller, think he said 5 volts before.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far love my sp's, I have the pwm versions and they run quiet compared to what I've used in the past (still don't beat my AP-14's)


----------



## p5ych00n5

Just did quick & dirty consequent IBT AVX runs (stock speeds, fans @ 1200)

Standard 10 runs


High 10 runs


Very High 10 runs


Maximum 10 runs


----------



## Jflisk

Need some help here Setup Dual D5 XSPC dual D5 Res > Razor CPU FX9590 > 120MM> 280MM > 3 GPUs R9 290X parallel EK > 240MM > 240mm 80 Monsta. I am getting 3300 ml/m 198 lph Off Koolance flow meter with adapter. Does that look low for the set up above. I dont see above 55C Max on anything CPU being the worse FX9590. Gpus never above 47C last vrm gets to 50C . Any idea - suggestions. I am more concerned with the Flow values not sure if there right or if I did the math right used a converter.The Flow meter is connected to the Koolance adapter to work with fan headed connected to a Heatmaster 2 - Yes I know old but works. Thanks in Advance.

I was using OCCT for stressing. But I noticed it shuts off the USB bus and my fan controller shuts off. Then the CPU got up to 63C. Switched up to Aida stress and the results above are with the fans running proper.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So far love my sp's, I have the pwm versions and they run quiet compared to what I've used in the past (still don't beat my AP-14's)


I have 12x sp120 quiet editions at 7 volts in my rig right now and 1x sp120 high pre at 7 volts, running a simple controller, but it is very good in my mind. Want to change the high pre to quiet edition because of that 1500 rpm is making a little noise. 16 radiator-fans and one air-cooled R9 290X Lightning is running nice and cool, even gaming at 4K with medium settings.







I am going to stick with those sp120s for a while. Never tried GT AP-14s though.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is, for now, the slimmest retail 120mm size radiator on the market.


Slimmer than the koolance 120mm and 280mm rads I got over 4yrs ago? pretty sure they still make them.. they were as thick as a fan and no wider either.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Slimmer than the koolance 120mm and 280mm rads I got over 4yrs ago? pretty sure they still make them.. they were as thick as a fan and no wider either.


Not available on the retail market anymore. There were some before that were slimmer than these and there will be some coming up as well. But for now this is it.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not available on the retail market anymore. There were some before that were slimmer than these and there will be some coming up as well. But for now this is it.


I went looking for the 240mm version at the end of last year, they had just gone out of stock on their website but had an eta and were up for sale roughly 3 weeks later. That puts them at the same or higher level of availability as aquacomputer to me, and easier for me to get than hardware labs here in Australia.

edit: just checked their site, seems most of their stuff is available to buy and reasonably priced.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Now if I could just get my hands on this S3









TCO

And I was able to pick up Win 7 Pro for 70$ Again


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> I went looking for the 240mm version at the end of last year, they had just gone out of stock on their website but had an eta and were up for sale roughly 3 weeks later. That puts them at the same or higher level of availability as aquacomputer to me, and easier for me to get than hardware labs here in Australia.
> 
> edit: just checked their site, seems most of their stuff is available to buy and reasonably priced.


The current slim Koolance rads are based off older HWLabs ones as far as I know, and they are 29.2-29.6mm thick.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Do have to say I love those Darkside LEDs


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I missed the length by about a mm, so my 4 way SLI bridge won't fit.. It sit just below the connector port on the bridge. Also, my phone broke, so I was forced to pull the 5d MkII out and use it, lol. Now I remember why I bought that camera.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Power-by-Weed

got my xspc v1 750 pump busted months ago


rebuilt my rig now included my gpu in the loop and changed the pump to a dual d5 also from xspc


uses an aerocool mid tower and using now a single xspc rs240 rad, still thinking how i can fit my new ax240

not happy how the tubing looks now i can't close my case probably be switching to hardline
the one with the 750 pump was my first build


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just arrived from Deutschland!
> 
> Super quick shipping! My kids got to the gummies and ate them before I knew what happened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Time to put everything together


On the 360 version the 
Monsta looks ridiculously thick







Esp. compared to the Coolgate G2s next to it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Hows about we get this thread kicking with some coolant talk eh?

Best Red coolant that is see through and doesn't stain acrylic tubing.

*GO*

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hows about we get this thread kicking with some coolant talk eh?
> 
> Best Red coolant that is see through and doesn't stain acrylic tubing.
> 
> *GO*
> 
> TCO


I would use just water with biocide and anti-corrosion added to it and the new mayhems non-staining dye.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I would use just water with biocide and anti-corrosion added to it and the new mayhems non-staining dye.


Could I use Distilled with the Non Stain Dye? (Does that have anti corrosion in it) ?

TCO


----------



## Jflisk

Straight distilled with Mayhems anti biocide. Check the PH every so often with PH stick Good to go. If I want color I change the tubing.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Could I use Distilled with the Non Stain Dye? (Does that have anti corrosion in it) ?
> 
> TCO


need to get each separately. Or just get x1 clear or any other clear fluid to your liking and add the non-staining dye.


----------



## emsj86

I'd go x1 clear bottle (had all the things you need to protect the loop) and get the red non stain dye. Maybe even grab some dark blue or another color dye depending if you want to have a darker red (like blood red)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> need to get each separately. Or just get x1 clear or any other clear fluid to your liking and add the non-staining dye.


Ok 250Ml concentrate makes 2Liters Or 1/2Gallon of Fluid.







That's perfect.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'd go x1 clear bottle (had all the things you need to protect the loop) and get the red non stain dye. Maybe even grab some dark blue or another color dye depending if you want to have a darker red (like blood red)


I need the Lightest Red I can get.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hows about we get this thread kicking with some coolant talk eh?
> 
> Best Red coolant that is see through and doesn't stain acrylic tubing.
> 
> *GO*
> 
> TCO


The blood of a Wildebeest.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The blood of a Wildebeest.


Preferably like this:



eidt - I am off to the paint shop to find a match for gunmetal...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The blood of a Wildebeest.










Perhaps the Statement was a tad to broad









TCO


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The blood of a Wildebeest.


Or tap a little yourself.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I missed the length by about a mm, so my 4 way SLI bridge won't fit.. It sit just below the connector port on the bridge. Also, my phone broke, so I was forced to pull the 5d MkII out and use it, lol. Now I remember why I bought that camera.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Loosen the screws on the PCI bracket that hold the gpus..loosen don't remove, then fit the 4 way bridge..might have to jiggle it a bit, once on re-tighten screws... If your fittings and tubing is causing the misalignment then drain the loop, loosen the fittings a touch then fit the bridge

If u aren't going to use sli (folding ) then don't bother-- personally I'd fit the bridge get sli working and turn it off in nvidia panel when folding


----------



## Ceadderman

Ppcs now has Monsoon PETG in Stock for those who are in need. I dropped 4 boxes into my cart.









~Ceadder


----------



## By-Tor

Distilled water and a couple drops of PT Nuke for me..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The length and width are so long on that thing ... the height looks small compared to a 360


Yeah, with the 140 versions, it don't look that thick. I have six 480s and those do look phatty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> What fans are you using with this?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Probably Corsair SP120s High Performance (2350rpm) or Quiet Edition (1450rpm) in push/pull on a controller, think he said 5 volts before.
Click to expand...

I had a bunch of sp120 hp and just added more. I thought they would be easy to come b6 used but only one person had a few. Even ebay I found only one used set for a fair price. They'll all be hooked up to my trusty fan controller (64x).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> On the 360 version the
> Monsta looks ridiculously thick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Esp. compared to the Coolgate G2s next to it


Never seen the blue logo on the bottom







. Three of the rads were used earlier units and the finish isn't the matte. The copper stickers were promptly removed. Maybe I should wrap them in red vinyl (







)


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Never seen the blue logo on the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Three of the rads were used earlier units and the finish isn't the matte. The copper stickers were promptly removed. Maybe I should wrap them in red vinyl (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yeah my new Monsta 360 and ST240 have the blue. We'll see if the UT240 that's due to arrive Saturday has it

My existing ST280, UT240 and ST120 are all bare with no blue letters and came with stickers separate


----------



## Gabrielzm

PPC now have GTs 2150 rpm available all black folks.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Aaaaand man, those GTs are sharp! Finally all black. Though, I couldn't tell from the pic, but is it glossy like the Vardars or still that unfortunate bare plastic look?
Ne'ermind, they are the bare plastic look.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Aaaaand man, those GTs are sharp! Finally all black. Though, I couldn't tell from the pic, but is it glossy like the Vardars or still that unfortunate bare plastic look?
> Ne'ermind, they are the bare plastic look.


Yep. I am glad that thanks to Dazmode Gts are getting back to market. Coolerguys always carry it but they don't ship internationally, at least not down here. Kudos to Daz. But I will hold my money for the PWM GTs that are coming in August.

And fresh from the bakery a comparison of Vardar with Gts. It certainly meet my own subjective tests at home in terms of noise:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/12/03/first-look-testing-ekwb-vardar-fans/2/


----------



## erso44

Did someone ever baked a vga in oven? My gpu died today


----------



## Ceadderman

Since I am picking up 9 fans for my loop (3*360s) I am picking up EKs 1450 pwms. With an infant in the house and although I'm noise training him it doesn't make sense to go with a higher speed version. I think the extra blade(s) of the GTs play a big part of the performance difference. And since no manufacturer can outright copy their design it'll be awhile before anyone can directly take the GT on and match/beat those specs. I think EK has done a great job with those issues in mind.

So in retrospect an award of Silver is a great rating. Not that I'm trying to sew a Sow's ear into a silk purse. If I didn't have to worry about my little one I would likely have decided on all Black GTs but I expect those would be snapped up silly quick anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. I am glad that thanks to Dazmode Gts are getting back to market. Coolerguys always carry it but they don't ship internationally, at least not down here. Kudos to Daz. But I will hold my money for the PWM GTs that are coming in August.
> 
> And fresh from the bakery a comparison of Vardar with Gts. It certainly meet my own subjective tests at home in terms of noise:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/12/03/first-look-testing-ekwb-vardar-fans/2/


I wish I could un-read that, or read it $300 in Vardars ago









Thanks for the link. I'll see how the FF5s sound vs. the AP-29s


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Did someone ever baked a vga in oven? My gpu died today


I have don't say it works all the time and smells like heck when done. Nothing to lose if its not under warranty.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like I might need to snatch up some more so-14's


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like I might need to snatch up some more so-14's


Snatch them up! There are still new ones available in the Marketplace from darkreaper. I grabbed a bunch from him for Sweet Leilani.


----------



## wermad

Almost there


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Almost there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I guess that would cool those 295x2 really good







Well done Wer I like those clean lines


----------



## Wolfsbora

Well, today is a disappointing day to say the least. PC Face sprung a leak in one of the acrylic tubes. I gave away my mandrels so I cannot make a new one. On top of everything, my 3TB HDD appears to have gotten wet and is not working properly when tried on another device. Worst of all, it contains all of my photography from the past 12 months (photos of my 18 month old son and family amongst those that are potentially lost. My external backup has been down too. The GPUs, SSD, PSU, and everything else appears to be ok for now but won't be able to test it. It occurred after multiple power surges that I couldn't catch in time. I'm not sure if the pumps constantly spinning up at 100% and then shutting off over and over again caused it. The cracked tube is on the inlet to the pump/res combo. As of right now, and for the foreseeable future, PC Face is in a coma. No games, no photo editing, no fun. Soothe my soul, OCN family.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Damn, dude. Just. Damn. So sorry to hear. Losing photos of your children is just the absolute worst. Let everything dry for DAYS. Anything I can do, just say.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Well, today is a disappointing day to say the least. PC Face sprung a leak in one of the acrylic tubes. I gave away my mandrels so I cannot make a new one. On top of everything, my 3TB HDD appears to have gotten wet and is not working properly when tried on another device. Worst of all, it contains all of my photography from the past 12 months (photos of my 18 month old son and family amongst those that are potentially lost. My external backup has been down too. The GPUs, SSD, PSU, and everything else appears to be ok for now but won't be able to test it. It occurred after multiple power surges that I couldn't catch in time. I'm not sure if the pumps constantly spinning up at 100% and then shutting off over and over again caused it. The cracked tube is on the inlet to the pump/res combo. As of right now, and for the foreseeable future, PC Face is in a coma. No games, no photo editing, no fun. Soothe my soul, OCN family.


stay calm and dry that HD before putting to use again. Chances are data is still intact and can be recovered even if the board is dead. Not sure the cost of the service in US but it might be worth a shot if data there is truly unique and without replacement. Good luck.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The current slim Koolance rads are based off older HWLabs ones as far as I know, and they are 29.2-29.6mm thick.


The ones they are selling now look to be very similar to the ones I bought years ago, and the model numbers are familiar. I grabbed the 280mm one and measured how thick it was with the fans mounted, came in at 54.5mm. I was sure they were 25mm thick though when I did research before buying the 120mm one lol.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Did someone ever baked a vga in oven? My gpu died today


I believe this method is better.


----------



## sdmf74

I have that same Blackjack BK4050 hot air soldering station, havent had the oppertunity to use it yet though, not for fixing a dead gpu anyway.

@ Wolfsbora sorry to hear about your hard drive. thats the reason im scared to switch to acrylic. I hope you retrieve your photos. I feel your pain my pump died yesterday and dont have a spare so my only system is down for now too., im just hoping I shut down before my cpu got too hot.


----------



## Georgey123

Anyone here know how far the HWLabs SR2 multi-port will be available?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Almost there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So jelly on you, man!









You sure do have a lot of Corsair SP120s, how many do you have?


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I could just get my hands on this S3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> And I was able to pick up Win 7 Pro for 70$ Again


Where's the fittings?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Well, today is a disappointing day to say the least. PC Face sprung a leak in one of the acrylic tubes. I gave away my mandrels so I cannot make a new one. On top of everything, my 3TB HDD appears to have gotten wet and is not working properly when tried on another device. Worst of all, it contains all of my photography from the past 12 months (photos of my 18 month old son and family amongst those that are potentially lost. My external backup has been down too. The GPUs, SSD, PSU, and everything else appears to be ok for now but won't be able to test it. It occurred after multiple power surges that I couldn't catch in time. I'm not sure if the pumps constantly spinning up at 100% and then shutting off over and over again caused it. The cracked tube is on the inlet to the pump/res combo. As of right now, and for the foreseeable future, PC Face is in a coma. No games, no photo editing, no fun. Soothe my soul, OCN family.


Balls dude, that sucks Balls. I am truly sorry, I've lost data before but not the extent which you have....... OCN Grouphug


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Damn, dude. Just. Damn. So sorry to hear. Losing photos of your children is just the absolute worst. Let everything dry for DAYS. *Anything I can do, just say*.


This is why I love Overclock.net. Your generosity is awesome. Seriously. +1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> stay calm and dry that HD before putting to use again. Chances are data is still intact and can be recovered even if the board is dead. Not sure the cost of the service in US but it might be worth a shot if data there is truly unique and without replacement. Good luck.


I'm really hoping that it dries and that nothing was fried. The thing that concerns me is that the leak occurred right over a tiny opening at the corner where the board sits. It didn't even get drenched. All it took was one drop on that corner. Here's to hoping it works.







Thanks, man. +1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I have that same Blackjack BK4050 hot air soldering station, havent had the oppertunity to use it yet though, not for fixing a dead gpu anyway.
> 
> @ Wolfsbora sorry to hear about your hard drive. thats the reason im scared to switch to acrylic. I hope you retrieve your photos. I feel your pain my pump died yesterday and dont have a spare so my only system is down for now too., im just hoping I shut down before my cpu got too hot.


And here's to hoping that you get your system up and running!







I actually still approve of acrylic. I'm sure it was probably human error. The system has been crack free for nearly a year now. I have a feeling that my bend may have been made to early on that tube and it stressed the acrylic. After a year of constant folding and gaming it probably opened those stress lines from the heat, the cool down, and the pump pressure. I really appreciate your concern. +1

^THIS is why I am a member of this forum and of this club/thread. You all really do know how to make a guy feel better. I'll keep you posted on what I do next. As much as I don't want to stop using my Rocket Science fittings (I love those things), I'm considering going all EK on the compression fittings and rocking some ZMT tubing. If done well, it could potentially look better than my current setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Balls dude, that sucks Balls. I am truly sorry, I've lost data before but not the extent which you have....... OCN Grouphug


Thanks, dude! I really appreciate your kind words and your group hugs.







+1


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Well, today is a disappointing day to say the least. PC Face sprung a leak in one of the acrylic tubes. I gave away my mandrels so I cannot make a new one. On top of everything, my 3TB HDD appears to have gotten wet and is not working properly when tried on another device. Worst of all, it contains all of my photography from the past 12 months (photos of my 18 month old son and family amongst those that are potentially lost. My external backup has been down too. The GPUs, SSD, PSU, and everything else appears to be ok for now but won't be able to test it. It occurred after multiple power surges that I couldn't catch in time. I'm not sure if the pumps constantly spinning up at 100% and then shutting off over and over again caused it. The cracked tube is on the inlet to the pump/res combo. As of right now, and for the foreseeable future, PC Face is in a coma. No games, no photo editing, no fun. Soothe my soul, OCN family.


This is no good mate, the best thing to do is not panik! I know that feeling of liquid being places it is not supposed to be







, Like others have said, put the CPU down a couple days in your mind, let components drip dry and come back with a clear head to re analyze the situation







. There is hope!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Where's the fittings?


I have over 20 Fittings at the house from "The Division" that I Didn't use, from C47s, to C48s ! I will try and use as many of those as I can, although I might need to order a couple 90degree White Bitspower you know?

TCO

I have that shipment at the house (And Am waiting to make a Build Log) but I need to get to polishing, but might save that for the Log


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Almost there


Looking good but it's lacking in the fan radiator department. Needs some more....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Looking good but it's lacking in the fan radiator department. Needs some more....










Dare I say (Spoilers) ?

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Yes shame on me


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes shame on me












TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This is no good mate, the best thing to do is not panik! I know that feeling of liquid being places it is not supposed to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Like others have said, put the CPU down a couple days in your mind, let components drip dry and come back with a clear head to re analyze the situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . There is hope!!
> 
> TCO


Thanks, man. It's a downer. Been a rough couple of weeks for me. That PC is an extension of me. So when it leaks, it's like I'm bleeding. I know that sounds dramatic but I had to change all of my hobbies. I went from being able to workout, ride my Softail, play guitar, to none of that all in one day. I've put my all into the custom PC world, even if it isn't in my own rig. PC Face needs to get bandaged up. She'll get there. Again, thank you for the support, The Courteous One.







+1


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Thanks, man. It's a downer. Been a rough couple of weeks for me. That PC is an extension of me. So when it leaks, *it's like I'm bleeding.* I know that sounds dramatic but I had to change all of my hobbies. I went from being able to workout, ride my Softail, play guitar, to none of that all in one day. I've put my all into the custom PC world, even if it isn't in my own rig. PC Face needs to get bandaged up. She'll get there. Again, thank you for the support, The Courteous One.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1


1st time someone has called me that









It's a little drastic of an expression but I understand where you are coming from, what bothers me is how long has it been running with acrylic and a leak now? That doesn't make sense.

TCO

What are some other options of why this happened?

+ Rep to You Mate for Being calm and collect!!


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Five or six hours, but not continuously... The two pumps push 180 l/h on this loop:
> res->dual ddc->radiator 1->radiator2->CPU->GPU->flow meter->res
> (radiator 1-2: alpahacool nexxxos xt45 360*120)
> 
> On the other hand 1 ddc could push around 160 l/h in the almost same loop(in that one i used an mo-ra 360).


Now its certain, there is still air in the loop. I flipped the case to its "face" and a lot of air just came out from my rads. I tilted it several times after that but it still have very small bubbles circulating in the loop. What a pain...


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 1st time someone has called me that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a little drastic of an expression but I understand where you are coming from, what bothers me is how long has it been running with acrylic and a leak now? That doesn't make sense.
> 
> TCO
> 
> What are some other options of why this happened?


It is drastic but it is realistic for me. I have limited use of my right arm, so bending those tubes, sleeving that 24pin, modding the case to fit a Monsta, literally blood was spilled over and over. I nearly gave up on it. This forum helped me through it though. I got inspiration from every single member on here, even the trollers. PC Face will get fixed. The bright side is that it means more modding. And there is always Sweet Leilani. Sweet, sweet Leilani.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> It is drastic but it is realistic for me. I have limited use of my right arm, so bending those tubes, sleeving that 24pin, modding the case to fit a Monsta, literally blood was spilled over and over. I nearly gave up on it. This forum helped me through it though. I got inspiration from every single member on here, even the trollers. PC Face will get fixed. The bright side is that it means more modding. And there is always Sweet Leilani. Sweet, sweet Leilani.


Usually when I need some love I Beckon @IT Diva , She consoles me and cuddles more so than most









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Well, today is a disappointing day to say the least. PC Face sprung a leak in one of the acrylic tubes. I gave away my mandrels so I cannot make a new one. On top of everything, my 3TB HDD appears to have gotten wet and is not working properly when tried on another device. Worst of all, it contains all of my photography from the past 12 months (photos of my 18 month old son and family amongst those that are potentially lost. My external backup has been down too. The GPUs, SSD, PSU, and everything else appears to be ok for now but won't be able to test it. It occurred after multiple power surges that I couldn't catch in time. I'm not sure if the pumps constantly spinning up at 100% and then shutting off over and over again caused it. The cracked tube is on the inlet to the pump/res combo. As of right now, and for the foreseeable future, PC Face is in a coma. No games, no photo editing, no fun. Soothe my soul, OCN family.


Hey wolf, before losing all hope get yourself a bag of rice (uncooked) and carefully place that drive in it and let it sit for a few days. The rice acts as a desiccant.

My daughter dropped her *new* phone in the River in 2 feet of water an it sank to the bottom. I did that for her and it's still working months later. She didn't have that phone a week an sploosh.









Should work for your drive.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Usually when I need some love I Beckon @IT Diva , She consoles me and cuddles more so than most
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Haaahaha, how does @IT Diva feel about this?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey wolf, before losing all hope get yourself a bag of rice (uncooked) and carefully place that drive in it and let it sit for a few days. The rice acts as a desiccant.
> 
> My daughter dropped her *new* phone in the River in 2 feet of water an it sank to the bottom. I did that for her and it's still working months later. She didn't have that phone a week an sploosh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should work for your drive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dude, holy crap. Why didn't I think of that?! I've used that trick so many times in the past. Oddly enough, I dropped my Nokia 928 Windows Phone in the toilet, didn't realize it until I got out of the shower. I pulled that sucker out and BAM, worked like a champ (sanitized it first







). I'll do it as soon as I get home! +1


----------



## Ceadderman

The seriousness of the situation may be the reason. Glad I could be helpful.









A toilet huh? My OCD tuchus would a just bought a new phone or sent that one in for warranty replacement.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> And there is always Sweet Leilani. Sweet, sweet Leilani.


Really sorry for the huge change in your life and hope everything works out for you...

We gave our daughter the hawaiian name Leilani when she was born (my wife's hawaiian)... I was building a Radio Control Sailplane at the time of her birth and named it the Sweet Leilani... Nice to see that name around.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Wolfbora,the platters will be fine,if anything it will be the control board on the back causing issues.

Simple and cheap fix? Order an identical drive online,swap the board,recover the data and finish up as you see fit.....


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seriousness of the situation may be the reason. Glad I could be helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toilet huh? My OCD tuchus would a just bought a new phone or sent that one in for warranty replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, right in the toilet. The lady left the lid up like she always does and my phone slipped off out of the basket on the upper deck of the toilet into it. Fortunately, the toilet had been recently cleaned and the toilet was flushed. I'm typically a germaphobe but decided to go for it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Really sorry for the huge change in your life and hope everything works out for you...
> 
> We gave our daughter the hawaiian name Leilani when she was born (my wife's hawaiian)... I was building a Radio Control Sailplane at the time of her birth and named it the Sweet Leilani... Nice to see that name around.


Thank you, man. I didn't mean to look for sympathy or anything, just wanted to express how important it is for me. I really love how this community cares for each other. +1

As far as your daughters name, it is absolutely beautiful. I'm building a dedicated Linux folding machine that will have its own folding name and I'm dedicating it to dman811's mother and to the Overclock.net community for all of their help (just to be clear, OCN itself is not a sponsor or anything). As for the name, Sweet Leilani came from a hula dancing bobblehead doll that dman gave me as the mascot for the build. It was actually printed on the box and just made perfect sense. I absolutely love the name Leilani. It just has a gentle ring to it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wolfbora,the platters will be fine,if anything it will be the control board on the back causing issues.
> 
> Simple and cheap fix? Order an identical drive online,swap the board,recover the data and finish up as you see fit.....


I was thinking about doing the board swap but didn't know if the cache would recognize the data on the platters. Do you think that would be a problem? It is definitely worth a shot if I can't get it to work. +1 for the suggestion.


----------



## Ceadderman

I felt your pain by ectrnsion. I wouldn't want it to be me, what with my newborn so just had da bang my noodle a bit to come up with a fix. I truly hope it helps.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I guess that would cool those 295x2 really good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well done Wer I like those clean lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> So jelly on you, man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You sure do have a lot of Corsair SP120s, how many do you have?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Looking good but it's lacking in the fan radiator department. Needs some more....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

@1am, had to make a trip to Walgreens as the 1.5 gal I had on hand of distilled ran out. I added about half a jug and I'll finish bleeding today. Sole D5 chugging away







. Dual pumps?!?!?! I don't need no stink'en dual pumps!









64 sp120s and one af120 (need to get one more for the other system's exhaust). 12 fans hooked up to five channels and the remaining on the last sixth channel. I should be able to run thw fans @ 4.8v at full load on the Hawaii's. Need to bump them to 1100.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @1am, had to make a trip to Walgreens as the 1.5 gal I had on hand of distilled ran out. I added about half a jug and I'll finish bleeding today. Sole D5 chugging away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Dual pumps?!?!?! I don't need no stink'en dual pumps!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 64 sp120s and one af120 (need to get one more for the other system's exhaust). 12 fans hooked up to five channels and the remaining on the last sixth channel. I should be able to run thw fans @ 4.8v at full load on the Hawaii's. Need to bump them to 1100.


Nice build


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Almost there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You aren't leaving much room to "go bigger" with that build...









My







Primo Build log is up, pics coming soon


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wolfbora,the platters will be fine,if anything it will be the control board on the back causing issues.
> 
> Simple and cheap fix? Order an identical drive online,swap the board,recover the data and finish up as you see fit.....
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about doing the board swap but didn't know if the cache would recognize the data on the platters. Do you think that would be a problem? It is definitely worth a shot if I can't get it to work. +1 for the suggestion.
Click to expand...

Nah, swap the board & you should be able to access the data.


----------



## sdmf74

Speaking of dual pumps, I wish! my 50x died yesterday and I dont even have a spare. Considering upgrading but never owned a D5 so please help recommend an awesome D5 & top so I can get her up & runnin again? Would like to keep PWM functionality and I cant afford an aquero setup at the moment. *Suggestions Please??*

cooling cpu & 1 K|NGP|N with a monsta 240 & HL GTX360 & BP Inline 250 res.

p.s. Does anyone know if PPCs ships on Saturday?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Speaking of dual pumps, I wish! my 50x died yesterday and I dont even have a spare. Considering upgrading but never owned a D5 so please help recommend an awesome D5 & top so I can get her up & runnin again? Would like to keep PWM functionality and I cant afford an aquero setup at the moment. *Suggestions Please??*
> 
> cooling cpu & 1 K|NGP|N with a monsta 240 & HL GTX360 & BP Inline 250 res.
> 
> p.s. Does anyone know if PPCs ships on Saturday?


The only native intel specs PWM D5 is the Aquacomputer model. Good thing is one of the cheapest too. All others models that are PWM do not follow intel specs and accordingly do not work properly with Aquaero. As for the top EK is a good one. Just don´t get the Aquacomputer since it performs worse than stock top.


----------



## Trestles126

Opinions needed

My loop consists of in order as follows

Ek d5 240 res
Into 2 ek 780ti gpus
Into a 360 ek rad
Into the ek Cpu block
Into the Asus mosfet block
Into ram block
Into a ek 240 thick rad
Into a aquatube filter
Into a 240 slim ek rad

I have another ek d5 clean acrylic pump being delivered today I was going to throw after the ram block mid way thru the loop but wanted a opinion.

Sounds like a lot of parts and I guess it is. Before my loop was the same less the mosfet, ram block, filter and 360 filter

Anyone running the hell out one d5

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...337DBF39-7287-46EE-88C6-DC4C99E5C415.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...06629CEF-BBB9-4327-ADD9-04211CF92F1A.jpg.html


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Opinions needed
> 
> My loop consists of in order as follows
> 
> Ek d5 240 res
> Into 2 ek 780ti gpus
> Into a 360 ek rad
> Into the ek Cpu block
> Into the Asus mosfet block
> Into ram block
> Into a ek 240 thick rad
> Into a aquatube filter
> Into a 240 slim ek rad
> 
> I have another ek d5 clean acrylic pump being delivered today I was going to throw after the ram block mid way thru the loop but wanted a opinion.
> 
> Sounds like a lot of parts and I guess it is. Before my loop was the same less the mosfet, ram block, filter and 360 filter
> 
> Anyone running the hell out one d5
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...337DBF39-7287-46EE-88C6-DC4C99E5C415.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...06629CEF-BBB9-4327-ADD9-04211CF92F1A.jpg.html


Where's the ring on the RAM 90?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nah, swap the board & you should be able to access the data.


Yeah just find an identical one, really only hard with older drives.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The only native intel specs PWM D5 is the Aquacomputer model. Good thing is one of the cheapest too. All others models that are PWM do not follow intel specs and accordingly do not work properly with Aquaero. As for the top EK is a good one. Just don´t get the Aquacomputer since it performs worse than stock top.


So you recommend an EK top over the Bitspower s top? And Why
rep+ comin thanx


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> So you recommend an EK top over the Bitspower s top? And Why
> rep+ comin thanx


Here is a Statistic Page on the EK Top

TCO

EDIT: Can't find anything on the Bits Top

Most Searches link Here


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Where's the ring on the RAM 90?


Just mocked up


----------



## sdmf74

Cool Ill do a litttle research on tops, I think the Aquacomputer D5 pwm is a good choice that way I can use it with an aquaero down the road when I can afford it.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Since my loop turned blue on its own, it is obvious i did not clean my rad well enough. It has been in my closet for a couple years. So, today i ordered a couple bottles of X1 and some maehems dye. Will flush the syestem a couple more times with distilled water and the fill with x1. Never used x1 before. Figured i would give it a try.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> So you recommend an EK top over the Bitspower s top? And Why
> rep+ comin thanx


you can get the bitspower too. Performance wise I think the ek is the top (get it?







) top. But I like the looks of the bitspower and the difference is not that great (the dual on the other hand have a more pronounced difference bewteen ek and BP). Some tests here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Since my loop turned blue on its own, it is obvious i did not clean my rad well enough. It has been in my closet for a couple years. So, today i ordered a couple bottles of X1 and some maehems dye. Will flush the syestem a couple more times with distilled water and the fill with x1. Never used x1 before. Figured i would give it a try.


You might want to take your loop apart & properly flush & clean everything, especially the radiator properly. I always flush my radiators with hot water.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You might want to take your loop apart & properly flush & clean everything, especially the radiator properly. I always flush my radiators with hot water.


I did. Just did not do it well, i guess.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nah, swap the board & you should be able to access the data.


Thanks! I'll give it a go then. I figure it is well worth it to do. +1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I felt your pain by ectrnsion. I wouldn't want it to be me, what with my newborn so just had da bang my noodle a bit to come up with a fix. I truly hope it helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I hope your little one is doing well!! I hope it helps too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Caselabs S3 Buildlog!

About to unbox some of these watercooling parts and polish things up







Come on over if you feel the Need.

TCO


----------



## taowulf

I don't know why I keep looking at this thread...as I sit here waiting to know when I am going back to work so I can start Phase 1 of my STC-01 Revitalization Project, seeing all these completed systems drives me bonkers.


----------



## Kritikill

I notice that several members here have made more that just one rig. What do you all do with them?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I notice that several members here have made more that just one rig. What do you all do with them?


Something has to power the OCN drone army.


----------



## Domler

New to posting on threads and I suck at spelling. Been following the thread for awhile. Got a 540air that's getting replaced with a s8. Decided to man up and get a real case. I have tried to stay calm, and now the wait is officially killing me. Should ship next week. Got a vii formula with a 4790k 4.7 at 1.28v titan x oc 1450 32 gb ram 2133 cas 9(just because) ssd only, all watercooled(of course) evga 1200 watt p2. Gonna put it all together. Then gonna go for a second titan. (Gotta hide it from the wife). Thank god she can't open her email, let alone know how much this hobby really cost. Please be kind as I am learning how to post. And where do you get all those cool emoji?


----------



## Domler

Found the emoji. I was on my shield. Now on my pc.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I notice that several members here have made more that just one rig. What do you all do with them?


Myself....... Including future plans I have four. An HTPC (used mainly for tv shows and movies), my gaming rig, my benching rig (not in my sig), and eventually a djing rig. Pretty much all of them will feature some form of watercooling at some point in their lives (aka when I get around to it and there's spare cash).


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> I notice that several members here have made more that just one rig. What do you all do with them?


Its more a question of what they do when we are not around


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Its more a question of what they do when we are not around












TCO


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Its more a question of what they do when we are not around


lmao....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I hope your little one is doing well!! I hope it helps too.


He's doing great. Just lost his cord an has an innie.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He's doing great. Just lost his cord an has an innie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hahaha!! Did it smell bad? I remember my son's smelling pretty nasty. I think we actually still have the little dried out cord somewhere. I remember not wanting to keep it but that was vetoed haha.







I'm really happy that he's doing well! Maybe your son and mine will be on OCN talking about custom water cooling together in 15 years!


----------



## Ceadderman

If I ha... dang Lil man is eating and pooting at the same ti...









...anyways







, if I have my way my boy most certainly will.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Well the Bitspower Aquapipe doesn't fit in the top of an EK V3 Top









TCO


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*












Nice setup with very nice images of the cooling configuration you have devised. What type of camera did you use to harness the tasty cooling hardware? I am looking for dust particles that do not exist.


----------



## Ceadderman

No Bueno Cautious.









~Ceadder


----------



## sdmf74

Will the Bitspower and EK pump mod kit/cover kits work with the aquacomputer D5pwm pump? Or are there others that will fit?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Will the Bitspower and EK pump mod kit/cover kits work with the aquacomputer D5pwm pump? Or are there others that will fit?


I think so mate. Never used those kits. But the d5 pwm from Aquacomputer is just a regular d5 in terms of dimensions:


----------



## timerwin63

Anyone know if you can use one of these sideways? (mounted vertically with the res portion above the pump, obviously)



I'm mostly just worried about the pump being sideways, but I don't know if I should be, though.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

As long as the res is feeding into the inlet I don't see why not.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Anyone know if you can use one of these sideways? (mounted vertically with the res portion above the pump, obviously)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm mostly just worried about the pump being sideways, but I don't know if I should be, though.


As long as the pump isn't upside down, my Koolance PMP 450 stresses that fact along with the EK pumptop


----------



## jagdtigger

What flow rate would be normal for this loop?

phoby res -> 2xlaing ddc-1t plus with aquacover dual ddc top -> nexxxos xt45 -> nexxxos xt45 -> cuplex cryos pro -> vid-ar 290x -> high flow usb- phobya res

Tubing: 16/12 mm, acrylic


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Bueno Cautious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I know bubba... Ugh... All good I am going to have to order a couple more things from PPC anyway, Ill just look a tad around more for the clear tubes

TCO


----------



## andl

Done. For now...


----------



## wermad

^^^Same here











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## szeged

Round two for mordhaus, leak test almost over soon. Pics to follow tonight probably. Thinking about relieving my cables /cringe


----------



## p5ych00n5

Is it possible to do a build log even though the build is already done????


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Is it possible to do a build log even though the build is already done????


Imo yes. Just gotta get creative with the pics


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Is it possible to do a build log even though the build is already done????


You can, just space out your Pictures of Building it you know?

TCO


----------



## szeged

Yeah just take it apart and take pics of the building process then space the pictures out over like a week to get people to come back for more lol.


----------



## wermad

Top of the loop. Had one small leak on one of the extenders on the reservoir. Just had to turn it as tight as possible and done







.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Your build is absolutely insane wermad!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Imo yes. Just gotta get creative with the pics


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You can, just space out your Pictures of Building it you know?
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Yeah just take it apart and take pics of the building process then space the pictures out over like a week to get people to come back for more lol.


I've taken pics of every step, I just didn't create a build log at the time. I can easily do it now, and I'm being pressured to do so


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I've taken pics of every step, I just didn't create a build log at the time. I can easily do it now, and I'm being pressured to do so


Peer pressure.







Honestly, we'd all like to see your work. It's always interesting to see what someone else does.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Peer pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, we'd all like to see your work. It's always interesting to see what someone else does.


I'll create a buildlog even after the fact


----------



## p5ych00n5

Any tips for a build log. I've never created one before


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Any tips for a build log. I've never created one before


Sure. Make it your own! Usually people list the parts in the first post and a pre/post pic of the build. You can use additional posts to show/explain what you did along the way. It's all about having fun and sharing what YOU'D like to share. You'll have my sub, that's for sure.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Sure. Make it your own! Usually people list the parts in the first post and a pre/post pic of the build. You can use additional posts to show/explain what you did along the way. It's all about having fun and sharing what YOU'D like to share. You'll have my sub, that's for sure.


Cheers dude, I'll create something whether good or bad


----------



## PhantomWorks

Some quic qustons?
good ideas for future costom loop now alphacool AIO but ordoring new coolin form EK
Current Rig PhantomWorks rev 1.5

DSC_0496.JPG 928k .JPG file

Asus Sabatooth 990FX r2
AMD 8350 OC4,5
Gigabyte GTX970 G1
Alphacool AIO loop
samsung evo 250 ssd and 2 x 1TB Baracudas for data
32" Sony W6 serier TV
Audio Nyforce Icon and SystemAudio speakers

Sorry typing englis not so good I am form Finland,

Reg, Juha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Cheers dude, I'll create something whether good or bad


That's the Point! What are we waiting for!!

TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's the Point! What are we waiting for!!
> 
> TCO


Haha, well said, my friend! I'm excited to see what he comes up with.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Haha, well said, my friend! I'm excited to see what he comes up with.


Pictures are a good start









TCO


----------



## fisher6

Just spent more than 80 USD on this, going in my Define S build:


----------



## electro2u

Valve -$19
Rotary "L"-$11
Mini dual g1/4-$5
Stop fitting-$5

Shipping-$43

Yup. We're watercooling now!


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Valve -$19
> Rotary "L"-$11
> Mini dual g1/4-$5
> Stop fitting-$5
> 
> Shipping-$43
> 
> Yup. We're watercooling now!


I live in Norway







. Bought 3 male to male, a t fitting, stop plug and valve.


----------



## andl

my cabeles is done


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Any tips for a build log. I've never created one before


First post: name the build, explain what you are achieving, just few pictures to start
2nd post: (reserved)
3rd post: (reserved)

Then wait for people to sub/react.

Each day show one part of the build, say starting with the case. Give people time to react. Go back and edit the 2nd post each day and add the single best picture from that day's post.

Eventually the 2nd post will be filled up in a gallery style.

When you get to the end, post final pictures at the end of the thread for the people who have been following. But also edit the 3rd post in the thread with final pictures so that people who come later don't have to search the thread for final pics.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> First post: name the build, explain what you are achieving, just few pictures to start
> 2nd post: (reserved)
> 3rd post: (reserved)
> 
> Then wait for people to sub/react.
> 
> Each day show one part of the build, say starting with the case. Give people time to react. Go back and edit the 2nd post each day and add the single best picture from that day's post.
> 
> Eventually the 2nd post will be filled up in a gallery style.
> 
> When you get to the end, post final pictures at the end of the thread for the people who have been following. But also edit the 3rd post in the thread with final pictures so that people who come later don't have to search the thread for final pics.


Man, WiSK, I'll be using this from now on! Great advice. This will certainly provide a much more clean build log. I may even go back and redo my past and current ones.







+1


----------



## Domler

a pic of my never ending build.


----------



## PhantomWorks

That is cool pice hardware, I have some noldge dy wather and pipes by work ( firefighter )
BTV liked good jobs reg from Finland


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

I just wanted to find out 2 things quick ...

Firstly: Which screws would be needed to mount the EK CoolStream WE to the Silverstone AP181's ? (AP181s are 32mm thick.)

Secondly: I have decided to keep my Raven and watercool it instead of getting the Jonsbo W2. Please check the list below and tell me if I am missing anything for a CPU loop only (with potential to put my 980Ti on eventually). I will buy distilled water from my local HW store as I will be using solid tubing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Screws should come with the Radiator. Not sure what the thickness of the Silverstone so but so long as they are 25mm thick you should be good.

~Ceadder


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Screws should come with the Radiator. Not sure what the thickness of the Silverstone so but so long as they are 25mm thick you should be good.
> 
> ~Ceadder


AP181's are 32mm thick ... that is why I asked about screws

Does my list look like a full list for a CPU loop ? ...


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Got o the hadrware store to pick up screws. I forgot what the threading is... 4-24 maybe? Or maybe it was 6-24. Your loop looks good!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all ...
> 
> I just wanted to find out 2 things quick ...
> 
> Firstly: Which screws would be needed to mount the EK CoolStream WE to the Silverstone AP181's ? (AP181s are 32mm thick.)
> 
> Secondly: I have decided to keep my Raven and watercool it instead of getting the Jonsbo W2. Please check the list below and tell me if I am missing anything for a CPU loop only (with potential to put my 980Ti on eventually). I will buy distilled water from my local HW store as I will be using solid tubing.


Probably 35 mm will do the trick but it might happen to be a little shorter still. 36 mm or 37 mm would be probably the right target. Looks ok. But are you sure about the number of fittings? Also, I found a lot easier to work with c47 from bitspower that those ek fittings.

edit - Ah ok, you are using soft tubing and the picture of the fitting mislead me.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all ...
> 
> I just wanted to find out 2 things quick ...
> 
> Firstly: Which screws would be needed to mount the EK CoolStream WE to the Silverstone AP181's ? (AP181s are 32mm thick.)
> 
> Secondly: I have decided to keep my Raven and watercool it instead of getting the Jonsbo W2. Please check the list below and tell me if I am missing anything for a CPU loop only (with potential to put my 980Ti on eventually). I will buy distilled water from my local HW store as I will be using solid tubing.


Just go and buy gtx980 now. And eventually water cool it later


----------



## VSG

Emissary of Pain: Screw type is UNC 6-32


----------



## Ceadderman

Doesn't WE Rad come with 2 lengths of fan screws? I am on my phone atm so I can't check.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Doesn't WE Rad come with 2 lengths of fan screws? I am on my phone atm so I can't check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yep, but probably the small 5 mm 6-32 and the 30 mm 6-32. Not the length he needs...


----------



## erso44

Since my second gtx died I got no clue what I should do.

Shall I wait for next gen?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Since my second gtx died I got no clue what I should do.
> 
> Shall I wait for next gen?


What are these things dying from?

TCO


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Since my second gtx died I got no clue what I should do.
> 
> Shall I wait for next gen?


I would be figuring out why they are dying.


----------



## By-Tor

Going to replace my 8 year old Hardware Labs Black Ice Extreme 360 rad with a newer Nemesis 360GTX.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Sure. Make it your own! Usually people list the parts in the first post and a pre/post pic of the build. You can use additional posts to show/explain what you did along the way. It's all about having fun and sharing what YOU'D like to share. You'll have my sub, that's for sure.


I'm on it today









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's the Point! What are we waiting for!!
> 
> TCO


It's just seeing the quality of builds and their logs make my potato cry









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Haha, well said, my friend! I'm excited to see what he comes up with.


Cheers dude









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pictures are a good start
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Oh there's plenty, can't guarantee the quality though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> First post: name the build, explain what you are achieving, just few pictures to start
> 2nd post: (reserved)
> 3rd post: (reserved)
> 
> Then wait for people to sub/react.
> 
> Each day show one part of the build, say starting with the case. Give people time to react. Go back and edit the 2nd post each day and add the single best picture from that day's post.
> 
> Eventually the 2nd post will be filled up in a gallery style.
> 
> When you get to the end, post final pictures at the end of the thread for the people who have been following. But also edit the 3rd post in the thread with final pictures so that people who come later don't have to search the thread for final pics.


Cheers for the tips mate


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Gonna be emptying my loop around August. Someone convince me to upgrade some parts









Thinking about throwing in a thicker RX240 or XT45/UT60 240mm rad. Maybe get a new res.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Gonna be emptying my loop around August. Someone convince me to upgrade some parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking about throwing in a thicker RX240 or XT45/UT60 240mm rad. Maybe get a new res.


Get a 580 Monsta


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Your loop looks good!


Thanks very much... Hoping the colors work well with my current setup ...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Looks ok. But are you sure about the number of fittings? Also, I found a lot easier to work with c47 from bitspower that those ek fittings.


I am actually not sure on the number of fittings ... haha .. .that is why I posted looking for advice ... This will be my first WC loop ever... ... I figured I would need 2 fittings per component (1 in & 1 out) and seems the pump attached directly to the res, that makes 3 components: Rad, Pump/Res, Block ... ... Or did I miss something ?

The only reason I am going with EK is cause they ship to my country, I will also make a loop via PPC and see if they are similarly priced for what I want but I heard with them shipping will be expensive to my country.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Emissary of Pain: Screw type is UNC 6-32


Thanks very much







... will check if I can get them on Tuesday.


----------



## Archea47

The current line of EK soft tube fittings, at least in 3/8" x 1/2", are a pretty tough fit on Primochill Advanced LRT clear

It's a hybrid build. The copper pipe fittings are nickle plated.

Looking for a compression fitting for the soft tube (3/8x1/2") available from PPCs in nickle compatible with the Primochill LRT clear tubing


----------



## p5ych00n5

Build Log is now live, prepare your senses for the epicness









http://www.overclock.net/t/1561321/ghetto-meister-9000-hardline-build-potato-build-log#post_24068456


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The current line of EK soft tube fittings, at least in 3/8" x 1/2", are a pretty tough fit on Primochill Advanced LRT clear
> 
> It's a hybrid build. The copper pipe fittings are nickle plated.
> 
> Looking for a compression fitting for the soft tube (3/8x1/2") available from PPCs in nickle compatible with the Primochill LRT clear tubing


Good luck with that. Primochill tubing specs are larger than listed. If you were using 1/2"x3/4" I would suggest getting 1/2"x5/8" tubing. But am not sure there is a smaller OD tubing available to use your tubing of choice. I had a heckuva time trying to get my 3/4" collars around my Primochill tubing of the same OD.

~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good luck with that. Primochill tubing specs are larger than listed. If you were using 1/2"x3/4" I would suggest getting 1/2"x5/8" tubing. But am not sure there is a smaller OD tubing available to use your tubing of choice. I had a heckuva time trying to get my 3/4" collars around my Primochill tubing of the same OD.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks Ceadder - I expected as much









The issue I'm having is they're _very_ tough to get onto the fitting. The collar threads over the tube just fine, but I'd hate to put that much pressure on my NB putting the tube onto the fittings on the NB block. I have a koolance drain valve with built-on compression fittings and they're a little easier to get the tube on


----------



## Ceadderman

No problem. I had the same issue. I could hardly get my collars on the threads at times an it was quite irritating.
















~Ceadder


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Get a 580 Monsta


lulz. I have a Fractal Arc Midi R2 so 360 x 240 is the max though I have stuff in the bays!

If the Monsta 240 weren't so expensive, I'd pick one up. I can't even bring myself to buying radiators new. I only buy used.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

So checking PPCs I can get the same pricing as going through EK but I have more flexibility with components (ironically I am still using the EK rad)

Regarding the CPU block, which of these would you guys rather take ?

Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos XT
Heatkiller IV Pro
Swiftech Apogee XL, or
EK Supremacy Evo

Sorry for all the questions but I would prefer to do it right the first time as it will cost me almost R7000 (zar) to buy and import.

Regards,
Richard


----------



## erso44

I will stop here for a while building my rig...
It´s not finished, whatever since my second card died I will wait for new stuff...

I´m out now...I wasted so much money on "her" what a bi**** xD


----------



## marshymellows

I just thought of something, would WD-40 work for cleaning blocks, like smudges and what not (on the acrylic and the nickel plating) ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have been going great guns with the etching/patination for IDORU's GPU backplates.

Didnt come out exactly as planned,the mask was to small in some places to resist the chem assault and there was some bleeding during the deep etch process.

To make my life a bit simpler,Im going to do it the other way around,having the font and figure as the etched pieces and scaling them up more. This should prevent mask loss.

The next,and hopefully final,set of back plates will be lasercut rather than the handcut ones I made,I also need to get them cut from the same sheet,one plate was done in 2 hrs...the other is still 'cooking' now.....20hrs later. This can only mean the copper grades were significantly different,something I wish to avoid.

As a proof of concept,im liking the effect,will look significantly better once there is a deep gloss clear over the whole piece,it will give depth.

Chemicals used: 32% HCL with a 3% Peroxide kicker for the etching (50/50). 25% Ammonia and sea salt for the patination.

The polished plates ready for the dip.



'Flush yaw rads meester?'







You can see the bleeding from the HCL,nice if you want the antiqued effect but I want a clean,purposeful look.


----------



## catbuster

Those backplates look amazing


----------



## brandotip

Sick patina BNEG!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been going great guns with the etching/patination for IDORU's GPU backplates.
> 
> Didnt come out exactly as planned,the mask was to small in some places to resist the chem assault and there was some bleeding during the deep etch process.
> 
> To make my life a bit simpler,Im going to do it the other way around,having the font and figure as the etched pieces and scaling them up more. This should prevent mask loss.
> 
> The next,and hopefully final,set of back plates will be lasercut rather than the handcut ones I made,I also need to get them cut from the same sheet,one plate was done in 2 hrs...the other is still 'cooking' now.....20hrs later. This can only mean the copper grades were significantly different,something I wish to avoid.
> 
> As a proof of concept,im liking the effect,will look significantly better once there is a deep gloss clear over the whole piece,it will give depth.
> 
> Chemicals used: 32% HCL with a 3% Peroxide kicker for the etching (50/50). 25% Ammonia and sea salt for the patination.
> 
> The polished plates ready for the dip.
> 
> 
> 
> 'Flush yaw rads meester?'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the bleeding from the HCL,nice if you want the antiqued effect but I want a clean,purposeful look.


----------



## fisher6

Noticed this in my EVO block today, any ideas what it might be? Only running EK clear coolant.



Loop and block is barely 3 months old. Sorry the bad pic, I will try to get a better one if possible.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Plasticizer?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Noticed this in my EVO block today, any ideas what it might be? Only running EK clear coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> Loop and block is barely 3 months old. Sorry the bad pic, I will try to get a better one if possible.


What tubing are you using?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> What tubing are you using?


I'm using PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I'm using PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing.


Could be plasticizer problems. Some reading below.

Scroll down to post #4.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?45507-Primochill-Advanced-LRT-leaching-plasticizer-o-O

http://www.overclock.net/t/1380775/what-is-plasticizer

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/2480

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been going great guns with the etching/patination for IDORU's GPU backplates.
> 
> Didnt come out exactly as planned,the mask was to small in some places to resist the chem assault and there was some bleeding during the deep etch process.
> 
> To make my life a bit simpler,Im going to do it the other way around,having the font and figure as the etched pieces and scaling them up more. This should prevent mask loss.
> 
> The next,and hopefully final,set of back plates will be lasercut rather than the handcut ones I made,I also need to get them cut from the same sheet,one plate was done in 2 hrs...the other is still 'cooking' now.....20hrs later. This can only mean the copper grades were significantly different,something I wish to avoid.
> 
> As a proof of concept,im liking the effect,will look significantly better once there is a deep gloss clear over the whole piece,it will give depth.
> 
> Chemicals used: 32% HCL with a 3% Peroxide kicker for the etching (50/50). 25% Ammonia and sea salt for the patination.
> 
> The polished plates ready for the dip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Flush yaw rads meester?'
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the bleeding from the HCL,nice if you want the antiqued effect but I want a clean,purposeful look.


I will say that if the weathered patina look WAS the goal (even though it wasnt) that would look sweet.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Noticed this in my EVO block today, any ideas what it might be? Only running EK clear coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> Loop and block is barely 3 months old. Sorry the bad pic, I will try to get a better one if possible.


That doesn't look like Plasticizer. The tube also clean. Advanced LRT should be free from Plasticizer issue.


----------



## Blackops_2

Been wondering if i'm having plasticizer issues. Notice a yellow hue to the tubing with no ambient sunlight in the room. Idk. Though Kiz i though plasticizer was present in all bendable tubing? Isn't it the element that that allows it be bendable. Not trying to be ignorant i really thought that's what it was. Whether it leeches or not was the problem?

I'll be disassembling in a couple of weeks and putting my 7970, finally put this old thing together lol. Still had to order m3 x 8 screws for the backplate









I benched on air @ 1200/1700 1.2vcore, going to see i can stabilize that


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> So checking PPCs I can get the same pricing as going through EK but I have more flexibility with components (ironically I am still using the EK rad)
> 
> Regarding the CPU block, which of these would you guys rather take ?
> 
> Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos XT
> Heatkiller IV Pro
> Swiftech Apogee XL, or
> EK Supremacy Evo
> 
> Sorry for all the questions but I would prefer to do it right the first time as it will cost me almost R7000 (zar) to buy and import.
> 
> Regards,
> Richard


Heatkiller or EK.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Could be plasticizer problems. Some reading below.
> 
> Scroll down to post #4.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?45507-Primochill-Advanced-LRT-leaching-plasticizer-o-O
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1380775/what-is-plasticizer
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/2480
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery


Thanks. Really funny that advanced LRT was the only/most recommended to me when I was building my loop. So am I looking at cleaning my CPU/GPU block now? What tubing should I get that has no issue, XSPC?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks. Really funny that advanced LRT was the only/most recommended to me when I was building my loop. So am I looking at cleaning my CPU/GPU block now? What tubing should I get that has no issue, XSPC?


I'll just be honest and frank if you really want to completely escape plasticizer issues go PETG or Acrylic, boom problem solved. I'm doing it on my main and thinking of doing it sometime in the next year for my backup.

It's interesting because i haven't noticed any cloudiness in my LRT but like i said i'm going to check in the upcoming weeks and if i have to..disassemble everything and give it a thorough cleaning :/


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I'll just be honest and frank if you really want to completely escape plasticizer issues go PETG or Acrylic, boom problem solved. I'm doing it on my main and thinking of doing it sometime in the next year for my backup.


EK ZMT tubing is flexible tubing that has zero plasticizer. Only comes in matt black though.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> EK ZMT tubing is flexible tubing that has zero plasticizer. Only comes in matt black though.


That is awesome, though i like my clear tubing. Though personally i like PETG and acrylic much more than regular tubing. Looks much better to me. Which is the reason i'll be going PETG. I've ran my Advanced LRT for 8 months now with no issues. I ought to cut my Glacer 240L open and see what it's looking like though too. I've ran it for almost 1.5 years now without checking it.


----------



## emsj86

I do t think it's that. I think your problem was the rads probably were not cleaned out all the way. Drain take it apart inspect it. Take a picture than clean with soft clothe and distilled but a lot of times what you see to what you see when you take apart the block is different. Take it apart than try to see what might be going on.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> What tubing should I get that has no issue, XSPC?


XSPC FLX clouded up way worse than the Koolance UV in my non-scientific "soak a piece in hot water for a few hours" test. Those were the only two I tried.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been wondering if i'm having plasticizer issues. Notice a yellow hue to the tubing with no ambient sunlight in the room. Idk. *Though Kiz i though plasticizer was present in all bendable tubing?* Isn't it the element that that allows it be bendable. Not trying to be ignorant i really thought that's what it was. Whether it leeches or not was the problem?
> 
> I'll be disassembling in a couple of weeks and putting my 7970, finally put this old thing together lol. Still had to order m3 x 8 screws for the backplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I benched on air @ 1200/1700 1.2vcore, going to see i can stabilize that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yellow hue is not plasticizer. It just the tube is yellowing which is quite normal. If plasticizer, you can see powder like substance on the tube wall. The tube in fisher6's pic show the tube is clean.

When Advanced LRT tube first available, there's report of plasticizer but they likely the Pro LRT was mistakenly delivered to customer. Changed to real Advanced LRT, no problem afterwards.


----------



## Blackops_2

I see thanks for clearing that up Kiz. Glad i don't have to rechange all the tubing.


----------



## electro2u

Where my pure distilled H2O peeps at?

Wermad! How long do you go between flushing?

I'm at 3 months now and all looks good but I'm starting to wonder how long it can last.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have been going great guns with the etching/patination for IDORU's GPU backplates.
> 
> Didnt come out exactly as planned,the mask was to small in some places to resist the chem assault and there was some bleeding during the deep etch process.
> 
> To make my life a bit simpler,Im going to do it the other way around,having the font and figure as the etched pieces and scaling them up more. This should prevent mask loss.
> 
> The next,and hopefully final,set of back plates will be lasercut rather than the handcut ones I made,I also need to get them cut from the same sheet,one plate was done in 2 hrs...the other is still 'cooking' now.....20hrs later. This can only mean the copper grades were significantly different,something I wish to avoid.
> 
> As a proof of concept,im liking the effect,will look significantly better once there is a deep gloss clear over the whole piece,it will give depth.
> 
> Chemicals used: 32% HCL with a 3% Peroxide kicker for the etching (50/50). 25% Ammonia and sea salt for the patination.
> 
> The polished plates ready for the dip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Flush yaw rads meester?'
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the bleeding from the HCL,nice if you want the antiqued effect but I want a clean,purposeful look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will say that if the weathered patina look WAS the goal (even though it wasnt) that would look sweet.
Click to expand...

It is the goal,I just dont want the bleeding under the mask.

Instead,im going to etch the polished panels and use the patination for the tubing


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Where my pure distilled H2O peeps at?
> 
> Wermad! How long do you go between flushing?
> 
> I'm at 3 months now and all looks good but I'm starting to wonder how long it can last.


been running since thanksgiving with distilled and tera anti-algae, no issues. went a year with no maintenance other than topping off res. 3 months is a cakewalk...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> been running since thanksgiving with distilled and tera anti-algae, no issues. went a year with no maintenance other than topping off res. 3 months is a cakewalk...


that's awesome! I didn't use any biocide or anything... I thought I saw a tiny little spec of a floater in my res yesterday, but it turned out to be a stubborn microbubble.


----------



## fisher6

Took some more pictures that show the issue better. I know that Advanced LRT is not supposed to have this issue. I will go to my retailer tomorrow and make sure that I actually got the advanced version and not the old Pro one. I will be taking moving to a new case soon so I will be tearing down my loop anytime. My GPU block loops fine btw.


----------



## sdmf74

(pump died so getting A.C. D5 pwm)

Im thinkin since my tubing/fittings are white/black I might get the white pump top & the black mod kit for aesthetics.
You guys think that would look alright? I Also have white pom BP res caps to match the white top.




Im still undecided on going with EK or BP though. I read the BP top performed worse than the stock Laing top, although that was
the V2. Does anyone know if the bp "S" series top is improved over the bp V2???

I may have to go with bitspower because it appears the EK doesnt have as many in/outlets as the BP does and I want to mount
the setup horizontally below the reservoir and the only inlet on the EK is on the face, am I correct?

EDIT... oooorrr I could get the EK top and mount it horizontally under the res and connect it to the res with this bitspower adjustable aqualink pipe II
I have laying around that I never found a use for, assuming the pump would be alright suspended & not physically mounted to anything (the res is mounted very securely).

Any thoughts, suggestions?


----------



## OverSightX

Finally had some time today to change out my bay res for a 250 tube res. Over the last month my 2 pumps had died and the rig has been asleep for a week. Had some leak issue to start with because apparently this new EK x3 res doesn't like my Monsoon fittings.

OLD: Koolance RP-452x2 Bay res with 2 Alphacool VPP655t's




New: EK_RES X3 250 with EK-XTOP Dual D5 PWM (incl. 2x pump)
Changed the all black Fittings with the blk/red carbon fiber revision.
Added the HDD/SSD drive cages back into the 900D
Added 2x 512GB Samsung 850 PROs


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Where my pure distilled H2O peeps at?
> 
> Wermad! How long do you go between flushing?
> 
> I'm at 3 months now and all looks good but I'm starting to wonder how long it can last.


I ran up to 6mos without issues except for plasticizer. Which obviously was not the fault of the coolant.









Of course I was running no killcoil and now I will have over 20 Monsoon economy fittings that have silver plated bases. Will see how that works out.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

It's the summer of rads, I tell you! Here's another new radiator, this time from Hardware Labs:









This is the Nemesis GTR, specifically the Nemesis 480 GTR. This has much shorter fins allowing for more tube channels and more fin stacks in the same core dimensions. This is a pre-production sample so I don't yet know (a) the cost, (b) retail availability and (c) what the final finish will be. If you have seen the newer Nemesis radiators then you know they have a powdercoated "dark matter" finish in some markets. Comparing Nemesis GTX to Nemesis GTR:







Here you can see what I meant by shorter fins. This is ever so slightly shorter owing to the smooth, matte black finish but that's about it externally.





Same 15mm fan hole spacing and 16 FPI. This is another reason why I keep saying FPI isn't all.







The fan screw holes don't coincide with any tubes in here, but there's still a screw shield in place just in case.







This scales with airflow similarly to the Nemesis GTX , i.e., very well, but is more mid-high airflow optimized. With the GTs being more readily available in North America and UK, and the EK Vardars taking off too this is my new overall rad recommendation based on my tests so far. It does need good radiator fans, or at least halfway decent fans in push-pull, to make good use of it though. It is not replacing the Nemesis GTX line up, but more so replacing the older GTX Gen 2 Extreme rads that are being phased out.


----------



## electro2u

Excellent pictures, VSG.









If anyone has any advice for me please check out this thread: How2 Solve Noisey D5 Pumps for Rebuild?


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesome review VSG.









Can you compare it to an EK and a Alphacool? Thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Awesome review VSG.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you compare it to an EK and a Alphacool? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That was just a few pics. Full review will be up on my website sometime next week, I can't have it here due to the forum rules.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I know. But a picture is worth a thousand words.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ironsmack

I want the GTR but leave that annoying wrinkle finish.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

My Little Bro is giving me a 780 EK Original CSQ waterblock for the New Build









I love saving money









TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Making me want to swap out my rads. . between the new EK line and these Nemesis Rads


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Stop making me want to upgrade from my Swiftech rads...


----------



## Ramzinho

i'm not a big fan of how dense the FPI for these rads is. i feel it needs too much SP to achieve what less FPI would do @ same static pressure. do they look good.. they absolutely do !


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I know. But a picture is worth a thousand words.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


True that!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I want the GTR but leave that annoying wrinkle finish.


I was on the same train of thought till I actually held a rad with that finish in person. It's still a personal thing for sure, but I am always up for options to make rads look different from each other. All the personalization in PCs and then we end up with rads looking like huge monolith slabs of black.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Making me want to swap out my rads. . between the new EK line and these Nemesis Rads


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Stop making me want to upgrade from my Swiftech rads...


DO EEEET








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i'm not a big fan of how dense the FPI for these rads is. i feel it needs too much SP to achieve what less FPI would do @ same static pressure. do they look good.. they absolutely do !


As I said above, FPI isn't everything. Fin thickness, height, tube thickness, number of fin stacks and tubes, core width, gap from core to the frame all have an impact. This is one such case where FPI by itself doesn't tell the whole story.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> DO EEEET


See the real problem is that I have AP14s so I'd have to upgrade to higher RPM fans too







So costly!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> DO EEEET
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the real problem is that I have AP14s so I'd have to upgrade to higher RPM fans too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So costly!
Click to expand...

Shouldn't have to with low fpi count Radiators.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Where my pure distilled H2O peeps at?
> 
> Wermad! How long do you go between flushing?
> 
> I'm at 3 months now and all looks good but I'm starting to wonder how long it can last.


The last setup ran for three months. I recycled the distilled from the previous setup. Currently, I'm running about 1.75 gal about the first gallon is from the last six months. It was clear and no debris so it made sense to reuse the left over for this new setup. I had more left over but I used some of it for a final rinse on five radiators after flushing them at the faucet. No additives, bio-cides, etc. Just plain ol distilled.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I do t think it's that. I think your problem was the rads probably were not cleaned out all the way. Drain take it apart inspect it. Take a picture than clean with soft clothe and distilled but a lot of times what you see to what you see when you take apart the block is different. Take it apart than try to see what might be going on.


I'm inclined to agree with this, looks like solder residue maybe.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


I really like the color and texture, nice job.









I have a suggestion. Since you are having someone laser cut the final ones for you, why not have the lettering and character cut out to avoid the tape/vinyl being eaten by the chemical bath? I know it might not be part of your vision for your build, but being the gpu board is black it might make a nice contrasting effect?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Excellent pictures, VSG.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has any advice for me please check out this thread: How2 Solve Noisey D5 Pumps for Rebuild?


Im kinda in the same sceario but Ive never owned a D5 (ordering a d5 pwm rght now) but you got me a little concerned (my last pump was very quiet) about how I plan on mounting my pump...see post #86921 above.

Have you or anyone else tried mounting a D5 with a (UN)Designs Infinite Pump Bracket (for DDC pumps) - Vertical Version . Im thinkin about ordering one. Even though my pump will be attached to the res I'm hopin this will handle any noise/vibrations.

The EK D5 V2 UNI Holder (EK-UNI Holder D5 V2) might look better though


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's the summer of rads, I tell you! Here's another new radiator, this time from Hardware Labs:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the Nemesis GTR, specifically the Nemesis 480 GTR. This has much shorter fins allowing for more tube channels and more fin stacks in the same core dimensions. This is a pre-production sample so I don't yet know (a) the cost, (b) retail availability and (c) what the final finish will be. If you have seen the newer Nemesis radiators then you know they have a powdercoated "dark matter" finish in some markets. Comparing Nemesis GTX to Nemesis GTR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see what I meant by shorter fins. This is ever so slightly shorter owing to the smooth, matte black finish but that's about it externally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same 15mm fan hole spacing and 16 FPI. This is another reason why I keep saying FPI isn't all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fan screw holes don't coincide with any tubes in here, but there's still a screw shield in place just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This scales with airflow similarly to the Nemesis GTX , i.e., very well, but is more mid-high airflow optimized. With the GTs being more readily available in North America and UK, and the EK Vardars taking off too this is my new overall rad recommendation based on my tests so far. It does need good radiator fans, or at least halfway decent fans in push-pull, to make good use of it though. It is not replacing the Nemesis GTX line up, but more so replacing the older GTX Gen 2 Extreme rads that are being phased out.


No NDA ?
mine has







and it's Winter


----------



## wermad

Moar pics







. I'll have to pull out all the connections (i/o) to pull off all the panels and take more pics. I'll get to that later on.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> No NDA ?
> mine has
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it's Winter


Winter? What's that?









Yeah I heard about your unit. You should be good to go with pics in the meantime.


----------



## Trestles126

Ok final air test fill tomorrow if the air holds so far so good


----------



## Trestles126

Sorry double post


----------



## wermad

Formula still using an aluminum "heat pipe" for the vrm cooling?

Nice choice in fans







.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Ok final air test fill tomorrow if the air holds so far so good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How do you know the air doesn't leak?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Formula still using an aluminum "heat pipe" for the vrm cooling?
> 
> Nice choice in fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


nope its full copper now









mordhuas updates soon, up and running on it now but the cables are only roughed in and might redo a few watercooling related things.


----------



## wermad

so it was the six w/ aluminum and seven had the copper?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> so it was the six w/ aluminum and seven had the copper?


5 had the aluminum too.


----------



## szeged

yeah only 7 was when asus finally realized that aluminum even anodized was going to get criticized at every chance lol.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> How do you know the air doesn't leak?


Simple gauge with shraeder valve below my on off drain. I fill it up 2-3 psi note pressure, then off on off valve and come back turn it on and compare air psi. Then check suspicious areas with qtip and dish soap.

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...FAA641B9-106C-4682-8A62-08E107BFAE28.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Nah, 5 had copper but fixed barbs.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nah, 5 had copper but fixed barbs.


oh, i thought i remember it being alum also.

fixed 5/8 barbs was the worst part.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nah, 5 had copper but fixed barbs.


You're right, the channel was copper, the fixed barbs were nickel plated, and the fins were aluminum.


----------



## wermad

@Wolf

I thought for shur the VF was copper,

Quote:


> Both air and water cooling-ready, Maximus V Formula eliminates heat with a unique aluminum-finned heatsink that combines an *all-copper water channel* and heatpipe in one, accelerating dissipation either way. For DIY mavens, this is pure hardware bliss, so pick your cool!


http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/Maximus_V_Formula/

edit: n/m, saw your post









I do recall flak when the VI was aluminum.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Wolf
> 
> I thought for shur the VF was copper,
> http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/Maximus_V_Formula/
> 
> edit: n/m, saw your post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do recall flak when the VI was aluminum.


I remember someone telling me that it was aluminum when I was initially going to use it for my PC Build (my RAM ended up not being compatible). It's good to know that it is actually copper!

Btw, major props to Performance-PCs for allowing me to add another order to the shipment. So far, they've been excellent in the way of customer service for me. As much as I miss FCPU, PPCs has never done me wrong.


----------



## Jflisk

Performance PC was shady at one time they cleaned up there act and are at the top of the bar. I personally never had any problems with them.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

PPPC could really use a website overhaul though. I hate navigating that site.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> PPPC could really use a website overhaul though. I hate navigating that site.


I have to agree with you on that one the drop downs work when they work


----------



## wermad

They do offer to tack on a small order. There are limitations, typically based on weight, and you can combine it w/ your pending order. I had to use it a few times when i forgot some small little items. I don't see the combine option anymore so I'm guessing its now done via phone. I've continue to order with them and had not had any major issues w/ them. Since its really the best one stop shop in the US, I would still recommend it.


----------



## Blackops_2

So was looking at my nickel 780 Classy block and to me it looks now copper. Is that just the staining or leeching of the Blood red? Or has all the nickel plate suddenly come off? Going to put the 7970 in this weekend anyway but i'm just wondering.


----------



## sinnedone

Looks like the red coolant is between the plexi and nickel part of the block. The space is so small between thosr parts that it appears orange instead of red.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks like the red coolant is between the plexi and nickel part of the block. The space is so small between thosr parts that it appears orange instead of red.


^^this


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I found an Alphacool Monsta 240mm for 55 shipped. Someone talk me out of it!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks like the red coolant is between the plexi and nickel part of the block. The space is so small between thosr parts that it appears orange instead of red.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^this


What i was thinking as well thanks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I found an Alphacool Monsta 240mm for 55 shipped. Someone talk me out of it!


Why? If that's what you want, get it

TCO


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why? If that's what you want, get it
> 
> TCO


Because I just dropped 100 on an orbital polisher for my car and maybe 75-100 bucks on polishing compounds and pads









Someone convince me that the Monsta isn't a big upgrade over a Swiftech QP220!!! Even though I know it's a pretty big upgrade...


----------



## deadwidesmile

Is it tho?


----------



## emsj86

If you have a 240 allready and your getting it to react it and not just adding it to your loop if say don't get it. Mainly because it seems you do t have the money to spend on it. Not saying that in a bad way just saying


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Is it tho?


I think it is. From what I've read anyways. Granted the benchmarks were on 360mm rads, but there's a 2.3*C difference which is pretty large. The Swiftech MCR is pretty consistently one of the worst performing rads :| I bought a pair of htem though because they only cost me like 30 bucks.

I do have money to spend on it, but the question is, "Is it the wisest spending money on it?" Then again, I feel like water cooling is never the wise choice







It's all just for fun!


----------



## emsj86

If you can do it and it makes you happy go for it.


----------



## Blackops_2

Rad size for 2x780 Classys and a 3770k pushed as far as i can go stable? I'm thinking 120x9 or 120x8, but trying to keep noise minimal. I know quiet is subjective. I consider my SP120s quiet enough. Was thinking push pull sp120s all around. Enthoo Evolv with 360mm CoolstreamXE up top, in the front, and then a 240mm CoolstreamXE below, and maybe a 120mm CoolstreamXE on the exhaust or a 140mm.

Goals would be 4.5ghz or more on Ivy, 1200 or more on the core on the Classies.


----------



## fisher6

Would cleaning a brand new alpahcool XT40 with hot tap water be ok? Don't have distilled water right now.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Would cleaning a brand new alpahcool XT40 with hot tap water be ok? Don't have distilled water right now.


I've read that you should use vinegar to clean the Alphacool rads out, but I'm not sure. You need distilled water though. You can rinse with tap water as long as you follow up with distilled.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Rad size for 2x780 Classys and a 3770k pushed as far as i can go stable? I'm thinking 120x9 or 120x8, but trying to keep noise minimal. I know quiet is subjective. I consider my SP120s quiet enough. Was thinking push pull sp120s all around. Enthoo Evolv with 360mm CoolstreamXE up top, in the front, and then a 240mm CoolstreamXE below, and maybe a 120mm CoolstreamXE on the exhaust or a 140mm.
> 
> Goals would be 4.5ghz or more on Ivy, 1200 or more on the core on the Classies.


Two 360's should be plenty for that heat load.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Rad size for 2x780 Classys and a 3770k pushed as far as i can go stable? I'm thinking 120x9 or 120x8, but trying to keep noise minimal. I know quiet is subjective. I consider my SP120s quiet enough. Was thinking push pull sp120s all around. Enthoo Evolv with 360mm CoolstreamXE up top, in the front, and then a 240mm CoolstreamXE below, and maybe a 120mm CoolstreamXE on the exhaust or a 140mm.
> 
> Goals would be 4.5ghz or more on Ivy, 1200 or more on the core on the Classies.


I wouldn't think you'd need that much rad. Maybe more like 120 x5 or x6, but then again more rad and fans equal lower(quieter) fan speeds. I suppose if you have the cash and room for all that then why not. Bottom line is that's more than efficient for your goals.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I've read that you should use vinegar to clean the Alphacool rads out, but I'm not sure. You need distilled water though. You can rinse with tap water as long as you follow up with distilled.


A few good rinses through with distilled is a must if you use tap water. Also, if using vinegar, it is highly recommended to dilute it pretty well with distilled.


----------



## fisher6

hmm, don't have any distilled water at hand and it's not easy to buy here. Will have to look around. Only have EK clear coolant but that isn't recommended I take it?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> hmm, don't have any distilled water at hand and it's not easy to buy here. Will have to look around. Only have EK clear coolant but that isn't recommended I take it?


You can use that, especially if that's what you intend on using to run through your loop. However, it might get costly doing it that way. Unless of course a bottle of that is cheaper than distilled water in your region.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> hmm, don't have any distilled water at hand and it's not easy to buy here. Will have to look around. Only have EK clear coolant but that isn't recommended I take it?


You can flush with tap water, preferably warm/hot until you are satisfied all the gunk is flushed out. But you will need to flush a couple of times with distilled or DI water or Reverse Osmosis water. Get some sort of purified water you need it to proper flush the loop.


----------



## Trestles126

Psu cover finalized, leak test in order. Can't seem to get some air pockets out of the Gpus. Perhaps because of the dual tubes connecting the two?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Psu cover finalized, leak test in order. Can't seem to get some air pockets out of the Gpus. Perhaps because of the dual tubes connecting the two?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful cover. Did you take pictures of the build process for that? Or put it in text form?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can flush with tap water, preferably warm/hot until you are satisfied all the gunk is flushed out. But you will need to flush a couple of times with distilled or DI water or Reverse Osmosis water. Get some sort of purified water you need it to proper flush the loop.


Thanks. Ordered 5 liters of distilled water. Should be here within a day


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I think it is. From what I've read anyways. Granted the benchmarks were on 360mm rads, but there's a 2.3*C difference which is pretty large. The Swiftech MCR is pretty consistently one of the worst performing rads :| I bought a pair of htem though because they only cost me like 30 bucks.
> 
> I do have money to spend on it, but the question is, "Is it the wisest spending money on it?" *Then again, I feel like water cooling is never the wise choice*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all just for fun!










Are you doing this to us because it's Monday?

TCO


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Psu cover finalized, leak test in order. Can't seem to get some air pockets out of the Gpus. Perhaps because of the dual tubes connecting the two?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...A9036A75-C6D0-485D-8E2A-E7886C9D7783.jpg.html


Nice work... However, i think it would look even better with black sparkle fittings instead of white...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Rad size for 2x780 Classys and a 3770k pushed as far as i can go stable? I'm thinking 120x9 or 120x8, but trying to keep noise minimal. I know quiet is subjective. I consider my SP120s quiet enough. Was thinking push pull sp120s all around. Enthoo Evolv with 360mm CoolstreamXE up top, in the front, and then a 240mm CoolstreamXE below, and maybe a 120mm CoolstreamXE on the exhaust or a 140mm.
> 
> Goals would be 4.5ghz or more on Ivy, 1200 or more on the core on the Classies.


I was set to get the atx evolv but watch high tech legions video. Just with one gpu and cpu block it is very very tight with 240 front and 360 top idk if it can fit all those rads. For reference I have two 780s both pushing 1.3v and 1300mhz oc and i7 4790k at 4.8 1.3. Occt is 72 max core and gpu temps full load 49. That's with 360 and a 240. Fan speed is 1400 with sp120 fans. If like better but case doesn't allow for more rads without making look compromises


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I've read that you should use vinegar to clean the Alphacool rads out, but I'm not sure. You need distilled water though. You can rinse with tap water as long as you follow up with distilled.


Vinegar then Baking soda neutralize the acid- Then distilled


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I was set to get the atx evolv but watch high tech legions video. Just with one gpu and cpu block it is very very tight with 240 front and 360 top idk if it can fit all those rads. For reference I have two 780s both pushing 1.3v and 1300mhz oc and i7 4790k at 4.8 1.3. Occt is 72 max core and gpu temps full load 49. That's with 360 and a 240. Fan speed is 1400 with sp120 fans. If like better but case doesn't allow for more rads without making look compromises


I saw that video as well. I wouldn't have kept the PSU cover in there though. Less i'm mistaken and that mid deck above the PSU isn't removable. My 360 would be in the front, up top, and then a 240mm down below exhausting out the right side, with the pump in front of it. Idk i'll have to look there might not be near the space i'm talking about using. I wonder if they're going to do a full tower Evolv? If the pro had the same features as the Evolv it would be easy to fit that much rad, a little tight but i think it would fit.

Those are great results BTW, i'm hoping to get 1300 on my 780s. Are you running push/pull?


----------



## emsj86

Just pull. Makes for easy cleaning of the rads. 360 is up top and 240is below both pull Intakes. I'm interested in seeing you put that much in the evolv as I really do like that case


----------



## By-Tor

I have placed numerous orders for my new build with PPC and have had nothing but great service..

Today I received a Happy Birthday email from them with a coupon code for 8% off my next order.

Not a bad email since I'm about to order a Black Ice Nemesis 480GTX radiator...

Thanks PPC...


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I have placed numerous orders for my new build with PPC and have had nothing but great service..
> 
> Today I received a Happy Birthday email from them with a coupon code for 8% off my next order.
> 
> Not a bad email since I'm about to order a Black Ice Nemesis 480GTX radiator...
> 
> Thanks PPC...


Yep, I've had all good experiences with them lately too. Ordered $1700 or so in parts over the past month with them and happy with it (except looking at my cc bill)


----------



## Janac

Guys, what's an alternative besides using silicon tube for bending acrylic?


----------



## VSG

Got some fans from EK earlier today:



















Oh and these too:


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> Nice work... However, i think it would look even better with black sparkle fittings instead of white...


Agreed I wanted black fittings or like u said the black sparkle but I had 200 dollars worth of whites laying around so couldn't force myself to do it!

With backlit psu cover he's also working on a a6 cover to hide the wires going into the bottom 360 rad side should be clean and cable free


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got some fans from EK earlier today:


Ah, the elusive 140mm Vardars.


----------



## Ceadderman

You can fer Vardars in White? Suuuuwwweeet!









~Ceadder


----------



## Sulfatron

My new build







, Finally found a case that suits me.. Love the S3!!

Still missing a few bits and pieces but my build is now 98% finished.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sulfatron*
> 
> My new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Finally found a case that suits me.. Love the S3!!
> 
> Still missing a few bits and pieces but my build is now 98% finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like the all black theme, gives it a "Dark Knight" personality, _"I only work in black, and very very dark gray."_. You should replace those GPU stop plugs with black ones, and maybe even black carbon fiber the HDD too.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Guys, what's an alternative besides using silicon tube for bending acrylic?


In the Acrylic Pipebending 101 thread, BNeg added this info:
Quote:


> ITDiva has done some testing of other former materials and found that Buna N cord has nice properties for this method,it swells slightly when warm and shrinks when cold.
> A nice alternative to the silicone currently used. As always,a former OD of 1mm less then the acrylic ID applies.


Buna N cord is pretty easy to come by, I think we even have some at work, but I went ahead and snagged a chunk of the silicone off Primochill for like $2.50. It's usually more "rubbery" than the Buna N we use, which is 70 or 75 Durometer if memory serves. I can check the durometer of the silicone cord when it arrives for reference.


----------



## Sulfatron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I really like the all black theme, gives it a "Dark Knight" personality, _"I only work in black, and very very dark gray."_. You should replace those GPU stop plugs with black ones, and maybe even black carbon fiber the HDD too.


Thx!! I'm currently looking for a some kind of black HDD cover/sticker.

I'm still hesitating about those GPU stop plugs


----------



## ozzy1925

i run air leak test for 1 hour and it was good to go after i started running mayhems part 2 on my system , i put toilet paper around all fittings ,critical places and i checked them every 30 mins. Everywhere seems dry but the water in the reservoir was 14.2mm 5 hours ago, now 13.6mm.Also i see some moisture inside the top of the reservoir.That means i have a leak?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

The water level will go down since air is being bled out and replaced with water.

I did have the moisture on the top of my reservoir at one point, but it went away after a day. I don't remember what I did. If none of the papers are wet, I don't think you have a leak.


----------



## Trestles126




----------



## VSG

So I noticed that the prices mentioned on blocks in a roundup here recently were extremely low for some compared to what I saw on PPCs. In particular, the Phobya CPU blocks were ridiculously cheap. I talked to PPCs and I guess they worked with Aquatuning on this, but now there are some $30 and $40ish CPU blocks there, including full metal nickel plated blocks. Unbelievable prices to be honest, and those looking for cpu blocks should definitely consider these. Looks like the entire Aquatuning enterprise has similar prices from all their outlets also so it's not just US only.


----------



## MKHunt

I figured I'd post my current loop (since 04/2013) here before I do a complete loop and case overhaul.



Changes in the new setup when PPCs decides to ship my orders:

CASE: C70 -> Enthoo Primo SE Red/Black
TUBING: Bring on the hardline tubing. PETG 10/12mmOD w/ Bitspower EML fittings
RES: Koolance 401x2 -> Bitspower Z-Multi Ultra 200 POM
PUMP: 35x -> Koolance PMP-500
RADS: 240-360-120 -> 480-480-240

I call it my "Let's get ready for vrm-blocks and skylake with eventual pascal watercooling overkill overhaul with extreme prejudice project" project. For too long have I tried to pack stuff into mid-atx chassis in an attempt to make my pc seem ordinary.

It is time to embrace bigness and ease of cable management!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> The water level will go down since air is being bled out and replaced with water.
> 
> I did have the moisture on the top of my reservoir at one point, but it went away after a day. I don't remember what I did. If none of the papers are wet, I don't think you have a leak.


yea i think you are right , it might be air because once i saw 3-5 bubbles come inside the reservoir when checking for leak.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok some shots of the case assembled, reservoir in place (







) and with the front panel ready for taking the gunmetal paint. Notice the difference in color. The front panel now is in the same color that the rads and fans (it will be gunmetal after next session of paint).


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok some shots of the case assembled, reservoir in place (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and with the front panel ready for taking the gunmetal paint. Notice the difference in color. The front panel now is in the same color that the rads and fans (it will be gunmetal after next session of paint).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


nice looking love the the straight cuts laser?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I noticed that the prices mentioned on blocks in a roundup here recently were extremely low for some compared to what I saw on PPCs. In particular, the Phobya CPU blocks were ridiculously cheap. I talked to PPCs and I guess they worked with Aquatuning on this, but now there are some $30 and $40ish CPU blocks there, including full metal nickel plated blocks. Unbelievable prices to be honest, and those looking for cpu blocks should definitely consider these. Looks like the entire Aquatuning enterprise has similar prices from all their outlets also so it's not just US only.


That's quite good! I am not a fan of Phobya though. I got some fittings from Phobya, and they were downright awful! The finish was terrible, almost as if the black was spray painted on.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> nice looking love the the straight cuts laser?


hand made mate







Jigsaw and metal file


----------



## VSG

Looks great!


----------



## deadwidesmile

Dual loop, 3x480mm radiators (x2 480, x2 240). Sli Titan-X's, 4790k @ 4.9ghz. Going to pick up an x99 Asus R-V and ek monoblock setup with a 5960x once the dust settles a bit from the case/watery coolingness parts ordered over the past 2 months. Gotta re coup a bit of the pc fund.

In reality I have to go rigid. But, this works with mostly what I had on hand for the budget.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> 
> 
> Dual loop, 3x480mm radiators (x2 480, x2 240). Sli Titan-X's, 4790k @ 4.9ghz. Going to pick up an x99 Asus R-V and ek monoblock setup with a 5960x once the dust settles a bit from the case/watery coolingness parts ordered over the past 2 months. Gotta re coup a bit of the pc fund.
> 
> *In reality I have to go rigid.* But, this works with mostly what I had on hand for the budget.


I think after my last build, I came to the realization that once I close the Door, I really want to be done with the build.

TCO


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think after my last build, I came to the realization that once I close the Door, I really want to be done with the build.
> 
> TCO


So much this. I couldn't bring myself to disassemble a loop after a few weeks just to change the tubing. I'd postpone the build at that point. Plus draining is easier with a... drain rather than a catch cup. Pop tubing/plugs/fittings, tilt case into sink, walk away for 30 minutes.

3x 480 of rad though. That's a lot. I approve










ETA: What's everyone's favorite source for AP-15's?


----------



## deadwidesmile

That's by no means finished. I should just build another pc while I actually play on this one. Considering I think I've been down over a week and only up for a week prior lol.

The flex lines are a lot cleaner now but I just don't like sweeps. It's one of those 90% in love, 10% disappointment heh.


----------



## snef

test ft of CPU/Ram/Aquaero loop

just love symmetry


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> test ft of CPU/Ram/Aquaero loop
> 
> just love symmetry


I see a 1mm difference on the right side, do it all over!!


----------



## snef

loll

i will take care of it, thats why i made a test fit


----------



## abeltbuckle

Sorry for the potato quality. First water cooling loop. Plenty of lessons learned. Some slight(shoddy) dremel work to get the radiator to fit with a set of fans. No reservoir, filled my loop by running the top radiator without plugs submerged in a trashcan. Looking for a name, any suggestions?


----------



## MKHunt

Topdown? That's how your GFX cards are oriented and how you fill it, after all.


----------



## sinnedone

That green pcb though, gonna have to plastidip or something @snef


----------



## Archea47

Any leads on where can I buy replacement clips for the shaft of the EK FF5 Vardars? The little black metal circlip under the sticker that holds the fans together. A couple got smaller during removal and I just spent a long time on the floor with a magnet searching in vain for one that went airborne

I measure the shaft to be 0.118" in diameter. I can't get in the clip's groove all the way with the taper on my calipers but what measurement I could grab was 0.102"


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Any leads on where can I buy replacement clips for the shaft of the EK FF5 Vardars? The little black metal circlip under the sticker that holds the fans together. A couple got smaller during removal and I just spent a long time on the floor with a magnet searching in vain for one that went airborne
> 
> I measure the shaft to be 0.118" in diameter. I can't get in the clip's groove all the way with the taper on my calipers but what measurement I could grab was 0.102"


The trick is to put the fan inside a big plastic bag and work with it inside it. So if the clip decide to take off will land within the bag


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The trick is to put the fan inside a big plastic bag and work with it inside it. So if the clip decide to take off will land within the bag


Hindsight







Great idea for next time, once I can buy some

I imagine McMaster would have something that could work but I hope to leverage the experiences of other foolish people like me


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hindsight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great idea for next time, once I can buy some
> 
> I imagine McMaster would have something that could work but I hope to leverage the experiences of other foolish people like me


I known the piece for the Gts







Maybe you can find in amazon. Or hit tiboor, Derick or Akira to ask what is the correct size


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> test ft of CPU/Ram/Aquaero loop
> 
> just love symmetry
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I bet that Acrylic was like butta when you drilled through it compared to the Alum in the SMA8 Caselabs









TCO


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I known the piece for the Gts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you can find in amazon. Or hit tiboor, Derick or Akira to ask what is the correct size


Thanks, do you happen to know the diameter of the shaft on the GT?

I posted in the EK club as well


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks, do you happen to know the diameter of the shaft on the GT?
> 
> I posted in the EK club as well


don't have a caliper at home but it looks something around 2.5 mm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Gabe,have you thought a out a bezel for the res to hide the res body on the outside?

Looks good tho,i do like a big res.


----------



## Pheozero

Quick question again, and please excuse the quality, it's kinda dark in my room and my Note 4 apparently doesn't like taking pictures with the flashlight on









I have a CaseLabs S5 and I'm trying to finish up my loop. However I need to somehow get my gpu connected to my rad but it's looking kinda tight. Any idea what combination of fitting I could use to to get it connected without looking bad? I was either thinking two 90°'s from the front of the card to a 45° on the rad or a 45° from the back of the card to a 45° from the rad.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Gabe,have you thought a out a bezel for the res to hide the res body on the outside?
> 
> Looks good tho,i do like a big res.


I thought about several possibilities. One was a subtle o-ring/grommet all around the front panel hole. This would hide any imperfections in the cut and would give a good look. Discarded that idea because could not find a suitable grommet of that size and was afraid it would hold the panel in place when I wanted to remove it. I guess you are suggesting something similar but with what material? aluminium? I am certainly open to suggestions specially now that the final paint job on the front panel is yet to be done.

I also though about leaving the reservoir a little bit on the back and placing an acrylic window (1mm maybe) flushed with the front panel to give the effect of perfectly flush.

In the end I decided to try to make perfectly flush with the front panel and cut just so hand made. I am happy with the cut (had to correct it a bit with plastic cement) but as you can see in the picture there was a place where the reservoir is protruding a bit:



I am still working on it a bit with the metal file but taking baby steps so the the gap between the reservoir and panel is not much. But I am totally open for suggestions B








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Quick question again, and please excuse the quality, it's kinda dark in my room and my Note 4 apparently doesn't like taking pictures with the flashlight on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a CaseLabs S5 and I'm trying to finish up my loop. However I need to somehow get my gpu connected to my rad but it's looking kinda tight. Any idea what combination of fitting I could use to to get it connected without looking bad? I was either thinking two 90°'s from the front of the card to a 45° on the rad or a 45° from the back of the card to a 45° from the rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


try a 45 on the open port of the GPU and a 45 on the closer port of the radiator (the one that is now connected to the cpu). The the cpu will go to the other radiator port.


----------



## BrjSan

Not sure how you end up in this







but as *Gabrielzm* said it is better to switch the ports.

In case you couldn't, then two 45°rotary i think will do the job since they allow more flexible rotation around and would not put much stress.


----------



## ozzy1925

i need to completely drain my loop but the 900d is too big to work with and i cant remove the water in the monoblock .What method you guys use for big cases?


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i need to completely drain my loop but the 900d is too big to work with and i cant remove the water in the monoblock .What method you guys use for big cases?


For me, i did not plan for a drain port, and ends up in a leak while testing it, so i drained it the old school, with the help of a friend lift the whole machine up side down *(did it twice)*, with some tilting (following the pipe/water path to get rid of it.

Even though, still got some water inside the loop. Am not sure if you can drain a loop 100 %, may be some guys can advise.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> For me, i did not plan for a drain port, and ends up in a leak while testing it, so i drained it the old school, with the help of a friend lift the whole machine up side down *(did it twice)*, with some tilting (following the pipe/water path to get rid of it.
> 
> Even though, still got some water inside the loop. Am not sure if you can drain a loop 100 %, may be some guys can advise.


only me and my wife and she couldnt handle 900d







i tried some air and it seem to help a bit but i dont want too much pressure i think i still have 150-200ml left


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i need to completely drain my loop but the 900d is too big to work with and i cant remove the water in the monoblock .What method you guys use for big cases?


Generally speaking, most loops simply cannot be fully drained and changing out coolant means at least some amount of dillution. Unfortunately that means having a lot of extra coolant and wasting a bunch of it. This is the main reason i got tired of using expensive coolant. If i need to let the system sit open for more than a day i will remove parts so i can get to the stubborn pieces.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Generally speaking, most loops simply cannot be fully drained and changing out coolant means at least some amount of dillution. Unfortunately that means having a lot of extra coolant and wasting a bunch of it. This is the main reason i got tired of using expensive coolant. If i need to let the system sit open for more than a day i will remove parts so i can get to the stubborn pieces.


thanks,i will use mayhems premix pastel but wanted to remove the tap water from flushing mayhems blitz part2 but no chance, i think i can live with it


----------



## The LAN Man

So ive been running a custom loop in my system for about 8 months now and today my system starting freezing sporadically so I checked it out and my res currently looks like any ideas as to what could cause this?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great work!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Quick question again, and please excuse the quality, it's kinda dark in my room and my Note 4 apparently doesn't like taking pictures with the flashlight on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a CaseLabs S5 and I'm trying to finish up my loop. However I need to somehow get my gpu connected to my rad but it's looking kinda tight. Any idea what combination of fitting I could use to to get it connected without looking bad? I was either thinking two 90°'s from the front of the card to a 45° on the rad or a 45° from the back of the card to a 45° from the rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Switch the CPU port to the other spot on the rad? Then GPU doesn't have to cross anything?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The LAN Man*
> 
> So ive been running a custom loop in my system for about 8 months now and today my system starting freezing sporadically so I checked it out and my res currently looks like any ideas as to what could cause this?


That is algae,the direct result of not running a biocide or a very poor premix.
Good chance every block in the loop is clogged with it.


----------



## guitarhero23

Did an interview with geforce.com.

http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/yidiy-travis-simpson-white-metropolis


----------



## The LAN Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That is algae,the direct result of not running a biocide or a very poor premix.
> Good chance every block in the loop is clogged with it.


That's not good. I've just been using distilled water the whole time. Once I drained it I didn't notice anything else anywhere in the loop or in the tubing I'll tear it down tomorrow to check again. I'll see if I can find any biocide here in Korea it's going to be a pain to order some more, still less than ruining everything in system.

edit: I used Mayhems Pastel Raspberry Purple which says it has a biocide in it already I don't know if you have any experience with that particular mix.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The LAN Man*
> 
> So ive been running a custom loop in my system for about 8 months now and today my system starting freezing sporadically so I checked it out and my res currently looks like any ideas as to what could cause this?
> 
> 
> 
> That is algae,the direct result of not running a biocide or a very poor premix.
> Good chance every block in the loop is clogged with it.
Click to expand...

B's right. Good luck getting that gunk out of your reservoir, it's probably leached into the acrylic. You're gonna have to rip your blocks open, probably replace the tubing as well and flush your rads and pump.


----------



## The LAN Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> B's right. Good luck getting that gunk out of your reservoir, it's probably leached into the acrylic. You're gonna have to rip your blocks open, probably replace the tubing as well and flush your rads and pump.


Welp, that's going to suck re bending all the tubing


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The LAN Man*
> 
> Welp, that's going to suck re bending all the tubing


I'm in the same boat with having to re-bend. I've decided to look at the bright side, I am forced to fix what I wasn't happy with in the original setup.

Things I'm changing:

Removing the 140 rad which also removes 1 fan allowing more view of the motherboard
Relocating the MPS400 flow meter out of sight
Finally able to install Darkside RGB LED strips and controller
Full cleaning of remaining rads and fans
Replacing failing (and red, which does not fit the build) Phobya Slim Fit fans with black Scythe Slip Stream fans for the top rad
Finalizing the cable management
Perfecting my bends
Does anyone know if there is male to male PCIe connector available? I'd like to connect my extensions directly into the PSU and bypass the short adapter I main.


----------



## Wirerat

I swapped out my evga gtx 970/bitspower wb with this:


I didnt realize how thick that bitspower block is until I had an newer model ek to compare it too.

Now my son will finally abandon the gtx 580 for my 970.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Agreed I wanted black fittings or like u said the black sparkle but I had 200 dollars worth of whites laying around so couldn't force myself to do it!
> 
> With backlit psu cover he's also working on a a6 cover to hide the wires going into the bottom 360 rad side should be clean and cable free


You mind showing how you made that psu not sure if someone asked but I really like it good work.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I swapped out my evga gtx 970/bitspower wb with this:
> 
> 
> I didnt realize how thick that bitspower block is until I had an newer model ek to compare it too.
> 
> Now my son will finally abandon the gtx 580 for my 970.


Yeah the Bitspower 970 blocks are definitely stout, love that fact they come with a backplate too. .


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks,i will use mayhems premix pastel but wanted to remove the tap water from flushing mayhems blitz part2 but no chance, i think i can live with it


I think you should try to Run and Drain the loop several times with distilled water, i.e as if you are flushing it, fill the loop with distilled water, run it couple of minutes, drain (old school), fill it again with distilled water, run it couple of minutes, drain it again, and may be do it for third time, this will increase the chances of getting rid of the TAP water inside your loop, i know it is gona be hard work







, and it will cost you lots of distilled water to waste, but if i were you, i would not keep tap water inside the loop. in any time you need to flush while the loop is *assembled*, use distilled water, avoiding any residue of TAP water to stuck inside the loop.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> That green pcb though, gonna have to plastidip or something @snef


was the initial plan but with GPU installed, impossible to see it,









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I bet that Acrylic was like butta when you drilled through it compared to the Alum in the SMA8 Caselabs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


so easy to work, i finish it and tell you witch one i prefer


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You mind showing how you made that psu not sure if someone asked but I really like it good work.


My buddy works at a acrylic display shop. He did it on his lazer Cnc machine. He draws it up on cad or whatever on the computer and the machine does the rest then he just bent it up. Good to have friends in all types of fields







. He's making me a small cover for the a6 as well as one more cover for my case labs nova build


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah the Bitspower 970 blocks are definitely stout, love that fact they come with a backplate too. .


yes it is a good deal when you consider the ek backplate adds $35. Mine performs well to. I never seen temps above 45c at 1.5ghz 8000mem.

My son can finally dump the gtx 580. I know his rig is gonna be much cooler now. This 970 is gonna create less than half the heat his 580 at 1ghz has been dumping in the loop.


----------



## DarthBaggins

My max temp at 1553 /6008 is 35c right now need to pull some benches with it other than just running [email protected] on it (cooling wise the dual 360's in push are doing a great job)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> so easy to work, i finish it and tell you witch one i prefer


I will Hold you to it! I didn't mind working in the Parvum S.2 but when I realized how the doors attached to the case with the 4 allens screws.... I wasn't thrilled. I have a habit of needing to do maintenance from time to time and that's not fun having to scrounge around for the Allen Wrench









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yes it is a good deal when you consider the ek backplate adds $35. Mine performs well to. I never seen temps above 45c at 1.5ghz 8000mem.
> 
> My son can finally dump the gtx 580. I know his rig is gonna be much cooler now. *This 970 is gonna create less than half the heat his 580 at 1ghz has been dumping* in the loop.


I consider myself lucky that I didn't drop into the "Build You're Own Cpu Game" when those "monster" card were outputting a phenominal amount of heat









TCO


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I will Hold you to it! I didn't mind working in the Parvum S.2 but when I realized how the doors attached to the case with the 4 allens screws.... I wasn't thrilled. I have a habit of needing to do maintenance from time to time and that's not fun having to scrounge around for the Allen Wrench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


My thought's exactly. I'm not overly excited about their cases. I have one that's brand new that I'll be selling shortly.


----------



## snef

just swap m3 screw with nice thumb screw


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Any leads on where can I buy replacement clips for the shaft of the EK FF5 Vardars? The little black metal circlip under the sticker that holds the fans together. A couple got smaller during removal and I just spent a long time on the floor with a magnet searching in vain for one that went airborne
> 
> I measure the shaft to be 0.118" in diameter. I can't get in the clip's groove all the way with the taper on my calipers but what measurement I could grab was 0.102"


Sorry to bump - anyone have a good lead on replacement retaining clips for (vardar) fans?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> so easy to work, i finish it and tell you witch one i prefer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will Hold you to it! I didn't mind working in the Parvum S.2 but when I realized how the doors attached to the case with the 4 allens screws.... I wasn't thrilled. I have a habit of needing to do maintenance from time to time and that's not fun *having to scrounge around for the Allen Wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yes it is a good deal when you consider the ek backplate adds $35. Mine performs well to. I never seen temps above 45c at 1.5ghz 8000mem.
> 
> My son can finally dump the gtx 580. I know his rig is gonna be much cooler now. *This 970 is gonna create less than half the heat his 580 at 1ghz has been dumping* in the loop.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I consider myself lucky that I didn't drop into the "Build You're Own Cpu Game" when those "monster" card were outputting a phenominal amount of heat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Strip of velcro and tuck it under the chassis,you will never lose it again.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Sorry to bump - anyone have a good lead on replacement retaining clips for (vardar) fans?


Mcmastercarr


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> just swap m3 screw with nice thumb screw


Good point! That would probably help.


----------



## Janac

Thoughts about these bends? They are my first ones













*BUILD LOG: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24079355*


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thoughts about these bends? They are my first ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUILD LOG: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24079355*


The GPU to CPU one (or reverse that) looks incredibly hard to do but I think if at the end of it all you have some extra material you should try to rebend it as its not "perfect" but that's me being crazy about the bends being perfect. It's tough bending perfect on a multi plane bend.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Never seen the blue logo on the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Three of the rads were used earlier units and the finish isn't the matte. The copper stickers were promptly removed. Maybe I should wrap them in red vinyl (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The ST30 240 and the Monsta 360 I received 3 weeks ago (2015 model?) from PPCs both had the blue lettering. They also had black nickel plated hex-head screws with wider screw heads (YES!)

The UT60 240 I received last week from PPCs has no lettering with stickers on the side, just like my previous 2013 alphacool rads. It also came with the older alphacool screws with the thin screw heads


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The ST30 240 and the Monsta 360 I received 3 weeks ago (2015 model?) from PPCs both had the blue lettering. They also had black nickel plated hex-head screws with wider screw heads (YES!)
> 
> The UT60 240 I received last week from PPCs has no lettering with stickers on the side, just like my previous 2013 alphacool rads. It also came with the older alphacool screws with the thin screw heads


Wondering if that is related to OCool changing the manufacturing process of the rads (or so is the rumor). Last I heard from mayhems thread was that OCool was improving the quality of the manufacturing process and particularly the internal cleaning. I will believe it when I see it. These changes in the package might indicate this (new screws, logo, finish)...


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Wondering if that is related to OCool changing the manufacturing process of the rads (or so is the rumor). Last I heard from mayhems thread was that OCool was improving the quality of the manufacturing process and particularly the internal cleaning. I will believe it when I see it. These changes in the package might indicate this (new screws, logo, finish)...


I recently got 2 Alphacool rads with the new packaging and blue lettering.
a 30mm 360 And a 45mm 280

When i went to do the rad dance there was hardly any gunk that came out.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thoughts about these bends? They are my first ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUILD LOG: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24079355*


It's not bad! I would definitely readdress the bend a tad tho. It looks a bit off going into the GPU.


----------



## yoi

yeah
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thoughts about these bends? They are my first ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUILD LOG: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24079355*


man , leave it like that , it looks great and for your first try , its perfect

sure its not perfecly horizontal .. the problem u will face is , how you will put the collar ad the O ring to inset it in the fitting , the collar wont go arround the bend that easy (in my experience) you could even scratch the tube forcing it

. the only thing to fix that is to extend the 3rd bend section , the one that is vertical close to the GPU , and then , with that new height aquired by stretching that area , u could achieve the "near perfect" horizontal line

... but in my opinion , just leave it like that







it looks awesome


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> It's not bad! I would definitely readdress the bend a tad tho. It looks a bit off going into the GPU.


Yeah, that's&#8230;_interesting_. Which does not mean bad. And if he was going for the letter "S" then I most certainly say helluva job!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah, that's&#8230;_interesting_. Which does not mean bad. And if he was going for the letter "S" then I most certainly say helluva job!


Maybe Sapphire would send him a card


----------



## Lyxchoklad

XSPC new PETG fittings and tubing arrived today. The tubing comes in a two pack of 500mm length with a thick wall and the fittings use a triple o-ring system.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thoughts about these bends? They are my first ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUILD LOG: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24079355*


So, why did you take the long way around the GPU? Can't you just come off the bottom of the block?


----------



## wermad

If you don't do hard tubing before, it can be a pita to get short angled runs going. You can add adapters or do a longer run. It shouldn't hurt performance much tbh. Doing it much more direct would have either pinched the tube to the point of breaking or some awkward angled run. It does look better tbh keeping to nice fluid and consistent bends.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Go a little Work Done Today













TCO


----------



## taowulf

Nice workday, TCO.

And now TCO means "The Clear One"


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Nice workday, TCO.
> 
> *And now TCO means "The Clear One*"












I have a shot after the 2000 Grit, I went from 400,600,800,1000,1500 to 2000 Final grit.





TCO


----------



## sinnedone

get the 3k 4k yo!

its a 2-3mm gray sponge type. takes the work out of polishing on the last step.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Very true on the 3k I use it to refinish head lights


----------



## emsj86

Just did both my passat and gli this last weekend night and day difference. That and the co2 for the astoc side skirts and bumper. He co2 is such a small bottle for 50 usd but it makes any faded plastic look brand new and last for almost a year unlike most that you see on tv that fade after a few days or so


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I have a kit by 3m that makes it easy to do


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Thoughts about these bends? They are my first ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BUILD LOG: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24079355*


That's really neat Janac!









If anyone is wondering, the marks at all the bends are from the marker being burned into the acrylic by the heat. A little plastic polish should get rid of them.


----------



## X-Nine

That looks hideous, TCO.... Hideously AWESOME!

Nice work! Looks even throughout.


----------



## Archea47

Should it matter if the retaining clips in my (Vardar) fans are either magnetic or electrically conductive?

It looks like I get one or the other off the McMaster Carr catalogue


----------



## Trestles126

Pretty happy with the outcome.

Booted up good recognized the new motherboard and also the second gpu.

But I have 3 disk drives

A 128g ssd with my op system on it

A 250g ssd with nothing on it which shows up in my device manager but not on "my computer"

And my 1tb hard drive, which I can't find anywhere

I'm also having a hard time updating my bios on the formula vii. Maybe I'm not to savy with software. But if I'm not mistaken the only way to update ur bios is via usb drive? If so I'm having a hard time and a bit nervous of messing things up.

For now a few not so professional finished shots


----------



## andl

Hi all, let me grab your attention please for a minute. Any ideas why would be lower gpu be hotter by 15-20 degrees Celsius ?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Bad thermal paste.


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Bad thermal paste.


Is it a case if temperature is equals for both cards in idle?


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Is it a case if temperature is equals for both cards in idle?


That would be correct
Also if I remember rightly when I had this issue the Unigine software and MSI AB read the cards around as bottom card as #1


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> So, why did you take the long way around the GPU? Can't you just come off the bottom of the block?


If you look closer you can see there's an opening for the power supply, so that's why!

Thanks everyone. I like it too!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Hi all, let me grab your attention please for a minute. Any ideas why would be lower gpu be hotter by 15-20 degrees Celsius ?


Maybe a little bit of blockage in the block????????


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Pretty happy with the outcome.
> 
> Booted up good recognized the new motherboard and also the second gpu.
> 
> But I have 3 disk drives
> 
> A 128g ssd with my op system on it
> 
> A 250g ssd with nothing on it which shows up in my device manager but not on "my computer"
> 
> And my 1tb hard drive, which I can't find anywhere
> 
> I'm also having a hard time updating my bios on the formula vii. Maybe I'm not to savy with software. But if I'm not mistaken the only way to update ur bios is via usb drive? If so I'm having a hard time and a bit nervous of messing things up.
> 
> For now a few not so professional finished shots
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Heh, sometimes Windows just drops drive letters, right click start, go into disk management from the dropdown and see whether they turn up there, you may have to assign letters


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hi all

I know I have posted here a lot asking for advice and I am here again (hopefully with something that is easy to answer)

I am looking for a place that sells this: *XSPC 140mm Universal Radiator Mount*, but they must be able to ship internationally.

I know that Performance PCs sells it but they want to charge me ridiculous amounts to ship it (cheapest being USPS which is like $70 - and I was told that I shouldn't ship with that)

Any ideas ?

Regards


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> I know I have posted here a lot asking for advice and I am here again (hopefully with something that is easy to answer)
> 
> I am looking for a place that sells this: *XSPC 140mm Universal Radiator Mount*, but they must be able to ship internationally.
> 
> I know that Performance PCs sells it but they want to charge me ridiculous amounts to ship it (cheapest being USPS which is like $70 - and I was told that I shouldn't ship with that)
> 
> Any ideas ?
> 
> Regards


http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-5060175581570-Universal-Radstand-140mm/dp/B004KO2H4O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435132694&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=XSPC+140mm+Universal+Radiator+Mount&pebp=1435132694707&perid=031YGXPT53QPY4SYV7S4

Have you tried amazon?


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> I know I have posted here a lot asking for advice and I am here again (hopefully with something that is easy to answer)
> 
> I am looking for a place that sells this: *XSPC 140mm Universal Radiator Mount*, but they must be able to ship internationally.
> 
> I know that Performance PCs sells it but they want to charge me ridiculous amounts to ship it (cheapest being USPS which is like $70 - and I was told that I shouldn't ship with that)
> 
> Any ideas ?
> 
> Regards


check this out XSPC 140mm Universal Radiator Mount.

through they ship through DHL express, not sure how much it cost, but i think less than 70$, need to double check.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I'd be happy to mail you one if it works out cheaper that way.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-5060175581570-Universal-Radstand-140mm/dp/B004KO2H4O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435132694&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=XSPC+140mm+Universal+Radiator+Mount&pebp=1435132694707&perid=031YGXPT53QPY4SYV7S4
> 
> Have you tried amazon?


I have, sadly the seller says that they don't ship to my country. (was my first stop)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> check this out XSPC 140mm Universal Radiator Mount.
> 
> through they ship through DHL express, not sure how much it cost, but i think less than 70$, need to double check.


I emailed them and they said they don't ship to South Africa either. Sigh, sometimes I hate this country ... haha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I'd be happy to mail you one if it works out cheaper that way.


Thanks for the offer, I will let you know via PM if I would like to go this route


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I wonder about starting at 3000grit? A Sponge you guys say? I thought the most important grit is the lowest to get the actual "Frosting" off of the CSQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> That looks hideous, TCO.... Hideously AWESOME!
> 
> Nice work! Looks even throughout.


Thanks a ton. Took 3.5hours total with the 3 blocks I did. 780 Block, EK EVO block, and the little GPU Connector that comes with the 780 CSQ

TCO


----------



## Shoggy

I am not sure but I doubt that you guys would be happy with a cooling fluid temperature of more than 60°C











This is the stock radiator from a R9 Fury X under load with Furmark. And this one here is also not installed into a case.

edit: oh, and I forgot to mention that the pump makes a permanent high pitched noise. Really annoying







But good for us


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I wonder about starting at 3000grit? A Sponge you guys say? I thought the most important grit is the lowest to get the actual "Frosting" off of the CSQ
> Thanks a ton. Took 3.5hours total with the 3 blocks I did. 780 Block, EK EVO block, and the little GPU Connector that comes with the 780 CSQ
> 
> TCO


I'm currently selling my 2 x EVGA 780 Ti Superclocked cards with the polished EK blocks. I'm so glad that I didn't have to be the one doing the polishing! That takes a ton of work. I bought the blocks off of @Jeronbernal. You did a great job on it! That is a nice glass-like finish.


----------



## VSG

Shoggy- Aquacomputer blocks/BPs incoming for Fury X? I was thinking about doing a roundup.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-5060175581570-Universal-Radstand-140mm/dp/B004KO2H4O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435132694&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=XSPC+140mm+Universal+Radiator+Mount&pebp=1435132694707&perid=031YGXPT53QPY4SYV7S4
> 
> Have you tried amazon?
> 
> 
> 
> I have, sadly the seller says that they don't ship to my country. (was my first stop)
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> check this out XSPC 140mm Universal Radiator Mount.
> 
> through they ship through DHL express, not sure how much it cost, but i think less than 70$, need to double check.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I emailed them and they said they don't ship to South Africa either. Sigh, sometimes I hate this country ... haha
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I'd be happy to mail you one if it works out cheaper that way.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the offer, I will let you know via PM if I would like to go this route
Click to expand...

No local seller there? Did you login to local forum & ask around?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I am not sure but I doubt that you guys would be happy with a cooling fluid temperature of more than 60°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the stock radiator from a R9 Fury X under load with Furmark. And this one here is also not installed into a case.
> 
> edit: oh, and I forgot to mention that the pump makes a permanent high pitched noise. Really annoying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But good for us


This is annoying. How can I play furmark multiplayer games if this is the case.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> If you look closer you can see there's an opening for the power supply, so that's why!
> 
> Thanks everyone. I like it too!


I see.


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andl*
> 
> Hi all, let me grab your attention please for a minute. Any ideas why would be lower gpu be hotter by 15-20 degrees Celsius ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Isn't that the first card? Probably not enough flow.. pump could be dying.. new build?


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Maybe a little bit of blockage in the block????????


my thoughts on this lead me to believe you don't have enough flow. Is your pump at full speed and what's the GPM flow at 100%?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> No local seller there? Did you login to local forum & ask around?


Already asked the local supplier, their stock quantities and selection is pathetic and they only order stock once every 6 months ...


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> my thoughts on this lead me to believe you don't have enough flow. Is your pump at full speed and what's the GPM flow at 100%?


also try reapplying the thermal paste. You may have poor contact


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I am not sure but I doubt that you guys would be happy with a cooling fluid temperature of more than 60°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the stock radiator from a R9 Fury X under load with Furmark. And this one here is also not installed into a case.
> 
> edit: oh, and I forgot to mention that the pump makes a permanent high pitched noise. Really annoying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But good for us


Except I dont see a fan in that pic Shoggy..on either side....or am I just being blind here?

The tubing is 30c lower which I find hard to believe if the rad is 65c+ on the warm side,do you have a normal pic of that setup?

Also...
Quote:


> Bit tech.
> 
> Thermally, the R9 Fury X excels as well, with the delta T of 36°C (in a closed case) being a fair bit cooler than an R9 290X with a massive third-party cooler strapped to it, and significantly cooler than a GTX 980 or GTX 980 Ti. A laser thermometer told as that both the back of the card and the radiator reached about 55°C at most. It's also quieter; the fan noise was practically inaudible throughout testing, never going above 22 percent and actually settling at just 15 percent (the lowest possible) under sustained load. Pump noise is the more audible aspect, and we did occasionally hear slight coil whine too, although not enough in either case to be distracting or annoying.


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Pretty happy with the outcome.
> 
> Booted up good recognized the new motherboard and also the second gpu.
> 
> But I have 3 disk drives
> 
> A 128g ssd with my op system on it
> 
> A 250g ssd with nothing on it which shows up in my device manager but not on "my computer"
> 
> And my 1tb hard drive, which I can't find anywhere
> 
> I'm also having a hard time updating my bios on the formula vii. Maybe I'm not to savy with software. But if I'm not mistaken the only way to update ur bios is via usb drive? If so I'm having a hard time and a bit nervous of messing things up.
> 
> For now a few not so professional finished shots
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It all came together very nicely!.

As for your SSD and Harddrive issue, you need to first initialize and/or format the drives for them to show up in windows.
To do this:
Go to Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Administrative Tools\Computer Management\Storage\Disk Management\
Look for the disk you're having issues with and make sure they're showing as being online. if not, right click to initialize and then format them.
Hope this helps.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> No local seller there? Did you login to local forum & ask around?
> 
> 
> 
> Already asked the local supplier, their stock quantities and selection is pathetic and they only order stock once every 6 months ...
Click to expand...

If there's anyone else in the country want to buy watercooling parts, you can always organized bulk order. This way can share the shipping costs.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> It all came together very nicely!.
> 
> As for your SSD and Harddrive issue, you need to first initialize and/or format the drives for them to show up in windows.
> To do this:
> Go to Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Administrative Tools\Computer Management\Storage\Disk Management\
> Look for the disk you're having issues with and make sure they're showing as being online. if not, right click to initialize and then format them.
> Hope this helps.


This was a swap over from my phanteks if my hdd had just games on it and was already formatted and installed on my previous build wouldn't it show up? I have my saved game files and aqua suite profile saved would rather not loose the data on it


----------



## Dzuks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> This was a swap over from my phanteks if my hdd had just games on it and was already formatted and installed on my previous build wouldn't it show up? I have my saved game files and aqua suite profile saved would rather not loose the data on it


Straight swap as in the motherboard wasn't changed, right?
Could you post a picture of how things look in Disk Management ?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dzuks*
> 
> It all came together very nicely!.
> 
> As for your SSD and Harddrive issue, you need to first initialize and/or format the drives for them to show up in windows.
> To do this:
> Go to Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Administrative Tools\Computer Management\Storage\Disk Management\
> Look for the disk you're having issues with and make sure they're showing as being online. if not, right click to initialize and then format them.
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was a swap over from my phanteks if my hdd had just games on it and was already formatted and installed on my previous build wouldn't it show up? I have my saved game files and aqua suite profile saved would rather not loose the data on it
Click to expand...

If it's same hardware, same motherboard & same OS (not re-install), then it should show up without need to do anything.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If it's same hardware, same motherboard & same OS (not re-install), then it should show up without need to do anything.


The mobo was changed from hero to formula


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Already asked the local supplier, their stock quantities and selection is pathetic and they only order stock once every 6 months ...


I quickly looked up a price estimate, and if the bracket is as small as I think it is, it should fit in a small flat rate box which will only cost like 25 dollars to ship to you via USPS Priority International. Let me know!









I"m really not sure why PPPC is charging so much for their international shipping.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Except I dont see a fan in that pic Shoggy..on either side....or am I just being blind here?
> 
> The tubing is 30c lower which I find hard to believe if the rad is 65c+ on the warm side,do you have a normal pic of that setup?


The fan is on the backside and was running of course. The tubing shows a lower temperature because it is covered inside a plastic sleeving and if you do not know it yet: thermal imaging does not work correctly on reflective stuff like that sleeving.

Checking the backplates temperature is not very interesting since it has no real cooling purpose here. The metal part which cools down the other parts on the card is barely visible to the outside but the parts that can be accessed are EXTREMELY hot. Near the power plugs I was able to measure temperatures of almost 80°C.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I quickly looked up a price estimate, and if the bracket is as small as I think it is, it should fit in a small flat rate box which will only cost like 25 dollars to ship to you via USPS Priority International. Let me know!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I"m really not sure why PPPC is charging so much for their international shipping.


Thanks very much for your offer, but

I just had a forum member (asked not to be named) send me a PM saying he ordered it and wants my address to ship it to me (for free) ...

I just want to thank him very much, he is a true legend !!! ...


----------



## deadwidesmile

Alright, so, I just went x3 480 radiators in w/push SP120's, Nocture NF12-12's and some Scythe GT 1850's (it's a mixed bag lol) with x2 480's rads for SLI Titan-X's and one 480mm (x2 240's) for a 4.9ghz (@1.29 vcore) i7 4790k all split on x2 DCP 4.0 pumps. I'm 10-12c above outside ambient and probably 5-10c above room. This is only my 2nd custom loop (about my 20th time putting one together as I'm seemingly never happy with the results either aesthetically or otherwise) and my inexperience is showing. Is this normal to be 10-12c above ambient? Granted, it's probably 30c in my room (damn global warming! I'm in WA for Pete's sake) and 36c idle on both GPU's and CPU.

The rads are XSPC RX480 V3 for the 480's and x1 EK XTX 240 + XSPC EX240 (skinny guy from last case) all shoved in a Core X9.

Thanks in advance for reassuring my newbie-ness.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks very much for your offer, but
> 
> I just had a forum member (asked not to be named) send me a PM saying he ordered it and wants my address to ship it to me (for free) ...
> 
> I just want to thank him very much, he is a true legend !!! ...


That's Awesome, Great outcome, Great Community Spirit


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks very much for your offer, but
> 
> I just had a forum member (asked not to be named) send me a PM saying he ordered it and wants my address to ship it to me (for free) ...
> 
> I just want to thank him very much, he is a true legend !!! ...


So awesome! This is why this community has become my go-to for idle time and just general information! Such a strong, good hearted forum.


----------



## Trestles126

night shots









http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0230.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0228.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0225.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0224.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0221.jpg.html


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Hghghghgngh. I wanna do hardlines so bad now.... but then I'd have to rebuy all my fittings.


----------



## SteezyTN

Just ordered an SMA8. Yay


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Just ordered an SMA8. Yay


Baller!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> night shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0230.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0228.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0225.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0224.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0221.jpg.html


What camera you using Trestles? You take really nice shots.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The ST30 240 and the Monsta 360 I received 3 weeks ago (2015 model?) from PPCs both had the blue lettering. They also had black nickel plated hex-head screws with wider screw heads (YES!)
> 
> The UT60 240 I received last week from PPCs has no lettering with stickers on the side, just like my previous 2013 alphacool rads. It also came with the older alphacool screws with the thin screw heads


Good to know







. The Monsta 560 had the copper stickers in a baggie and came with the tiny head black m3s. I used some of the stock m3s but most of the fans were installed w/ 12mm ph screws. Since the SP120s bend a bit too much when tightening down the long 30mm screws, I've decided to go w/ all 12mm. I'm picking up some button ss screws from ebay.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> What camera you using Trestles? You take really nice shots.


A old Nikon d5000 not nearly as nice as sneff and the boys that have booths and light boxs set up! I will respond with my settings tomorrow. I use a tripod and slow shutter spreeds to capture light.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Question on your wires, Trestles... how did you make them so damn perfect?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Question on your wires, Trestles... how did you make them so damn perfect?


Head over to the "sleeve gallary", you'll find lots of examples of hardcore sleeve work that is very befitting of the word "perfect"









edit: http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion


----------



## andl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Maybe a little bit of blockage in the block????????


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> Isn't that the first card? Probably not enough flow.. pump could be dying.. new build?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> my thoughts on this lead me to believe you don't have enough flow. Is your pump at full speed and what's the GPM flow at 100%?


the flow can be seen on 9:25 of next video




flow seems to be good. speed is set on 5. in idle both cards goto 39 degree celsius in 5-10 seconds. and difference in idle is 1 degree


----------



## SteezyTN

I started a build log for my first Case labs SMA8. Check it out paaaalease









http://www.overclock.net/t/1562006/build-log-case-labs-sma8-aquity-gunmetal-black-titan-x-sli


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I would love to splurge on a Caselabs, but I just can't justify spending that much on a case :/


----------



## Janac

Hello.

Your thoughts about this loop?



*and the build log is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24088782 for more photos*


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I'm 10-12c above outside ambient and probably 5-10c above room. This is only my 2nd custom loop (about my 20th time putting one together as I'm seemingly never happy with the results either aesthetically or otherwise) and my inexperience is showing. Is this normal to be 10-12c above ambient? Granted, it's probably 30c in my room (damn global warming! I'm in WA for Pete's sake) and 36c idle on both GPU's and CPU.


outside temp doesnt matter when we talk about ambient. room temp is ambient temp.
what do you mean 'all split' on 2x 4.0dcp pumps? dual loops? somehow parallel?

actually the only 2 temps you should care about are water/coolant(loop) and room temp if your loop is installed and functioning correctly.


----------



## By-Tor

I received an 8% off coupon code for my birthday from Performance PC and I wont be using it.

It expires on the 28th of June at 00:00:00. I'm not 100% sure it's transferable, but what do you have to loose.

If anyone wants it please PM me.

First PM gets it!!!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> Your thoughts about this loop?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *and the build log is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24088782 for more photos*


That GPU to rad is a really weird bend. Mostly at the rad side.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I received an 8% off coupon code for my birthday from Performance PC and I wont be using it.
> 
> It expires on the 28th of June at 00:00:00. I'm not 100% sure it's transferable, but what do you have to loose.
> 
> If anyone wants it please PM me.
> 
> First PM gets it!!!


Has been claimed.


----------



## kitg90

interesting bends in that build still cool


----------



## Archea47

Also I'm not sure if it's
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> Your thoughts about this loop?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *and the build log is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/120#post_24088782 for more photos*


I like it

My concern looking at the image is the video card droop. Are the hard lines pushing the card downward?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Anyone order from Sidewinder very recently? Been over two weeks and he has only printed the label and hasn't responded to an email inquiry. C'mon, Gary...


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Anyone order from Sidewinder very recently? Been over two weeks and he has only printed the label and hasn't responded to an email inquiry. C'mon, Gary...


Give him a call..


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Every time I go to Sidewinder's website, I wonder how they're still open. The product selection is so poor, and the shipping is slow compared to PPCS.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Give him a call..


Sigh is this 1985? Guess I gotta.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I received an 8% off coupon code for my birthday from Performance PC and I wont be using it.
> 
> It expires on the 28th of June at 00:00:00. I'm not 100% sure it's transferable, but what do you have to loose.
> 
> If anyone wants it please PM me.
> 
> First PM gets it!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Has been claimed.
Click to expand...

Nooooo. So close. They better have a July 4th sale.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Every time I go to Sidewinder's website, I wonder how they're still open. The product selection is so poor, and the shipping is slow compared to PPCS.


Yeah well I like Gary and I am wanting to keep PPCs from becoming a near-monopoly&#8230;but I had no choice this time cause the main item was recently OOS at PPCs. This might be my last time trying though. Which sucks.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Question on your wires, Trestles... how did you make them so damn perfect?


u

Far from perfect! They r actually just extensions from icemods. I very time patiently then routed all the stock evga cables to be as hidden as possible and most are zip tied neatly on the backside of the lower compartment of the s8. All it really takes is patience and time and some thought. I wanted to get all new sleeved cables non extension. But this turned out great. Still have one more custom mod on order that will clean up the back of the a6 backlit and fancy


----------



## deadwidesmile

See, I feel like the extensions always turn out better than full cables lol. Why is that?!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Extensions give you more room for error. I find them much easier to work with because you don't have to remove every wire when you disassemble your computer.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> See, I feel like the extensions always turn out better than full cables lol. Why is that?!


They will turn out better at the hardware side because they are straight through cables. The power supply side will always be messy without full cables.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They will turn out better at the hardware side because they are straight through cables. The power supply side will always be messy without full cables.


Hide psu side. Profit?

Where do you gents get these mystical extension pieces of art?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

His are from icemodz.com

ensourced.net is another option offhand...


----------



## MapRef41N93W

What would cause my Titan X temperatures to increase so much so suddenly? Over the last 2-3 days my TX is now doing max of nearly 60c with ambient 24c when the first week I had my loop running I was doing 51-52c in 27-28c ambient and 48-49c in 23-24c ambient.

I checked for leaks but I don't see any in my loop. My CPU temps haven't gone up at all really. I even tried to drop my CPU back to stock which should be saving about 50-100 watts of heat but I saw virtually no difference in temperatures. My temps are still jumping up to 50c almost instantly and then slowly rising up to 60.

A good example of the temp change is in Firestrike Ultra. My temps used to start in the low 40s and the peak during the bench would be 48-49c. Now as soon as the bench starts I hit 50c and start climbing.


----------



## electro2u

Air bubble in the block?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> His are from icemodz.com
> 
> ensourced.net is another option offhand...


I used the Bitfenix cable extensions from ppcs in my sig rig. Was pretty happy with the quality and you can buy them in packs to save a few more bucks.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitfenix-multi-sleeved-cables


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Air bubble in the block?


What should I try to do? Take the GPU out of the PCI-E slot and shake it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> What should I try to do? Take the GPU out of the PCI-E slot and shake it?


Either air trapped or something is blocking the flow within the block. Start with the air bubble hypothesis. Turn the pump rpm to maximum. Tilt / rock the case a bit so that any air trapped might be dislodged.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> What camera you using Trestles? You take really nice shots.


I think it's more of proper lighting than the camera


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Either air trapped or something is blocking the flow within the block. Start with the air bubble hypothesis. Turn the pump rpm to maximum. Tilt / rock the case a bit so that any air trapped might be dislodged.


Tried it. I cycled through my D5 rpm and shook the case but no air was dislodged.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I used the Bitfenix cable extensions from ppcs in my sig rig. Was pretty happy with the quality and you can buy them in packs to save a few more bucks.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitfenix-multi-sleeved-cables


True, you can absolutely find extensions much cheaper. But, generally, you very much get what you pay for with these more expensive custom ones, besides just a pattern of your choosing and more color options. Explained/shown moreso here:

http://www.icemodz.com/custom-psu-cables/custom-vs-china/

Also, icemodz etc offers whole sets for specific modular PSUs...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Tried it. I cycled through my D5 rpm and shook the case but no air was dislodged.


Your blocks are clear plexi or acetal? I wonder if some debris is clogging up the channels on the gpu block. Have you changed anything else that can account for that difference in temps? Fans, case cover, filter?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Your blocks are clear plexi or acetal? I wonder if some debris is clogging up the channels on the gpu block. Have you changed anything else that can account for that difference in temps? Fans, case cover, filter?


My blocks are:
CPU: EK Supremacy EVO nickel plated plexi
GPU: Bitspower Titan X Black Acrylic nickel plated. This thing looks like acetal but it's acrylic

I haven't changed anything. Fans are all set to 100% (1000RPM 140mm yate loons all set to intake on the radiators, + a random 120mm Fractal fan I had laying around for the exhaust). All the filters were in place since the beginning. The only change I made was I was able to get the stuck fin off my second Trident X RAM stick and thus was able to fit it under the tubing. It's a tight fit with the tubing kind of leaning against it but I already checked this and there was no temp difference when I removed it again.

Looks like my only choice at this point is to take down the whole loop for inspection which I was really hoping to avoid doing..


----------



## Ceadderman

Well, have you considered dusting your Radiators? 140mm of surface area per fan running at 100% can suck up an insane amount of dust. If you haven't checked them in awhile, that would be where I would start.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ironsmack

Pinch the tubing on different areas to create backpressure and that should help out with the air (if there's any).

Also, lightly tap the blocks, rads, pump while the pump is running. That's another way to get rid of the air.


----------



## Ceadderman

What if he has hardline tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## MiiX

What is the best coolant which is clear and requires the least amount of maintenance/refilling?
Going to use it with EK blocks and Alphacool rads.

Im still not sure what tubing to use, Onyx Black Primochill Advanced LRT tubing or EK ZMT tubing... The matte black would look nicer I'm my build I think...


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What is the best coolant which is clear and requires the least amount of maintenance/refilling?
> Going to use it with EK blocks and Alphacool rads.
> 
> Im still not sure what tubing to use, Onyx Black Primochill Advanced LRT tubing or EK ZMT tubing... The matte black would look nicer I'm my build I think...


Distilled water.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What is the best coolant which is clear and requires the least amount of maintenance/refilling?


Mayhem X1.
Had it in my loop for a year now, no signs of anything out of the ordinary. Very cheap as well! (EK Ni-plated blocks, XSPC rads and Bitspower fittings)


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I've used Bitfenix extensions, they're pretty nice, not that bad.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Distilled water.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Mayhem X1.


I cant get my hands on X1 here in Norway without shipping it from UK/US/etc, and that's way to expensive for just coolant.

Il probably go with distilled water, but does it need any additives?

Probably going for the matte ZMT tubing, as it looks awesome


----------



## SlvrDragon50

You need a biocide/inhibitor. So get a silver kill coil or some biocide like Mayhem's.


----------



## wermad

If you're running ek or koolance nickel, there's a high chance of nickel failure with silver.

I've been running distilled only for a few years now and had several builds. Not one failure.

@miix, you're fine for a temporary solution with distilled only until you get the setup you want.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I managed to find the problem with my temps. One of my Yate Loon fans died after only two weeks of use on my 420 rad. It was hard to tell that it wasn't spinning as the LED was still on and it's hard to see through the top of the Enthoo Pro. Didn't think a single fan could make such a temp difference but apparently it does. My temps have come down quite a bit. Though it's really only my GPU temps that seemed to have been affected.


----------



## Ceadderman

Might as well clear your Rads when you replace that fan. If you haven't already.









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I cant get my hands on X1 here in Norway without shipping it from UK/US/etc, and that's way to expensive for just coolant.
> 
> Il probably go with distilled water, but does it need any additives?
> 
> Probably going for the matte ZMT tubing, as it looks awesome


I'm using distilled water plus PrimoChill Liquid Utopia (biocide + anti-corrosive). Mix one 15mL bottle per 1 galllon. I did about 1tsp in my 1L loop.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I ordered a Black Ice 560 GTS radiator. Not the GTX one, but the one that is 30mm thick. Anyways, what fans do you recommend for it? I was thinking the EK Vardar fans, but they are out yet. Im using SP120's and I prefer quiet fans at low speed.

My setup:
RX480
RX360
RX240
560GTS

Would the Corsair AF140's be sufficient for the GTS? I kind of want the AF140's to match the rest of my build.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Phanteks 140s. If you really wanna match, then get the Corsair SP140s.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Phanteks 140s. If you really wanna match, then get the Corsair SP140s.


What kind of performance loss or gain would I have by getting the AF140s?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What kind of performance loss or gain would I have by getting the AF140s?


Negligible


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Negligible


By the time I actually get my case, the vardar fans should be out. It's down between those and the AF140. Would it be about the same with those?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Why are you buying AF140s? You should be getting SP140s for the static pressure.

If you get the AF140s, run them in pull.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> By the time I actually get my case, the vardar fans should be out. It's down between those and the AF140. Would it be about the same with those?


I'm using sp120s hp with bgears adapters on my two 560s. They run at 40% power most of the time and are dead quiet. I was hoping for sp140 hp @ computex, but still just a rumor.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> By the time I actually get my case, the vardar fans should be out. It's down between those and the AF140. Would it be about the same with those?


With the amount of rad space you have it doesn't matter what fans you run, there is a point of diminishing returns. I think get what you want and is in your budget. The Vardars have tested to be overall better, but with your particular setup it doesn't matter.


----------



## iateab

First watercool


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm using sp120s hp with bgears adapters on my two 560s. They run at 40% power most of the time and are dead quiet. I was hoping for sp140 hp @ computex, but still just a rumor.


I'll be using SP120 QE for my RX480, RX360, and RX240. I just need something for the 140 rad. To me, my one AF140 is near silent at max. That's why I was thinking of getting three more for my 560GTS


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Phanteks have repeatedly tested to be the quietest along with Noctuas, but they're pricey.

As Radnad said, you do have a ridiculous amount of rad space, so even if your fans were running at like 600 RPM, you'd probably still get okay temps.

You can use the AF140s if you want, but SPs would be better.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Phanteks have repeatedly tested to be the quietest along with Noctuas, but they're pricey.
> 
> As Radnad said, you do have a ridiculous amount of rad space, so even if your fans were running at like 600 RPM, you'd probably still get okay temps.
> 
> You can use the AF140s if you want, but SPs would be better.


I would run them at full speed, which is about 1000rpm. If I don't go AF, I would go SP for the LED


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
I'm still using 2x280x.
To be honest its still doing what I need to do as I'm only playing on 1080p.
Is it worth selling it now and get as much as I can and wait for the price drop on a 980ti or something?
Or should I keep it? I just need peoples advice.
They both come with EK 7970 blocks.

Edit: Also how much (£) should I ask for?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iateab*
> 
> First watercool


Looking good! Just get the card underwater next!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I'm still using 2x280x.
> To be honest its still doing what I need to do as I'm only playing on 1080p.
> Is it worth selling it now and get as much as I can and wait for the price drop on a 980ti or something?
> Or should I keep it? I just need peoples advice.
> They both come with EK 7970 blocks.
> 
> Edit: Also how much (£) should I ask for?


I would keep the cards. IMO, no reason to upgrade cards until your GPU can no longer run what you want to do. I have my 7950 driving a 34" ultrawide and 1080p TV with no stuttering at all. I expect to get at least another year, probably two years of use out of this card before I upgrade.


----------



## p5ych00n5

I think I must be tired, I've seen people recommending using Listerine in a loop


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I'm still using 2x280x.
> To be honest its still doing what I need to do as I'm only playing on 1080p.
> Is it worth selling it now and get as much as I can and wait for the price drop on a 980ti or something?
> Or should I keep it? I just need peoples advice.
> They both come with EK 7970 blocks.
> 
> Edit: Also how much (£) should I ask for?


Dual 280x's are still _very_ capable. I would hang on to them until you feel like you need/want more FPS.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I have three PH140 Blues on my top EX420 and they do an effective and quiet job at ~1200 RPM (and wanted blue LED fans for the first time in like ten years, too). Though one of them make an annoying rattle right at spin up (and down). Did it when I had it on it's side on a different rad too&#8230;

LEDs can be switched off too which is nice.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Dual 280x's are still _very_ capable. I would hang on to them until you feel like you need/want more FPS.


Heh some guy on Facebook just admonished me for running dual 7970 in my loop


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I think I must be tired, I've seen people recommending using Listerine in a loop


Y'know, I believe that I have read something like that before. At least it would fight cavities that may occur.


















~Ceadder


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Y'know, I believe that I have read something like that before. At least it would fight cavities that may occur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Can it fight the cavities that occur when it cracks the hell out of any acrylic you have in your loop?....... /jk


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Can it fight the cavities that occur when it cracks the hell out of any acrylic you have in your loop?....... /jk


I was about to say the same thing ^^^^^^^^^^^^


----------



## p5ych00n5

Oh and the sugar plus additives clogging


----------



## xxpenguinxx

The problem is it will fill all the cavities, like the channels in the blocks.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> The problem is it will fill all the cavities, like the channels in the blocks.


At least it will be minty fresh as it melts


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Y'know, I believe that I have read something like that before. At least it would fight cavities that may occur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it fight the cavities that occur when it cracks the hell out of any acrylic you have in your loop?....... /jk
Click to expand...

I think that the loopist would recommend PETG dentures...









~Ceadder


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think that the loopist would recommend PETG dentures...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Imma gonna start a barfight with PETG dentures, nothing breaks that ****


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think that the loopist would recommend PETG dentures...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Imma gonna start a barfight with PETG dentures, nothing breaks that ****
Click to expand...

Hence your OCN profile name.









~Ceadder


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hence your OCN profile name.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nah, that's my DJ name, sorta carried over


----------



## Ceadderman

I been on mine since the start of the web. Back when AoL started anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Same... had mine since 2nd grade when I first started playing Runescape. Been maybe almost 15 years now.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i have had mine since al gore gave it to me after he invented the internet...


----------



## Trestles126

Last touch to cover wires and the back of the aquero 6 plus in case the filter ever leeks it'll protect it

Backlit of coarse



Installed pictures soon


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Heh some guy on Facebook just admonished me for running dual 7970 in my loop


Pfft whatever. Money doesn't grow on trees (for all of us, anyway). My 670 4GB FTW SLI still gets me by very nicely even at 1440P and they have two lovely matching XSPC Razer blocks that I dig much (and that didn't break the bank because I didn't buy them when 'current').


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Last touch to cover wires and the back of the aquero 6 plus in case the filter ever leeks it'll protect it
> 
> Backlit of coarse
> 
> 
> 
> Installed pictures soon


The ends are one piece or panels affixed with epoxy?

That looks seriously sharp. I'm considering a few options for Darkside build. Mount PSU using the 140 mounting location, mount it normally at the bottom(180d the mb tray which moves the PSU inward to that, or get a Llian-Li extended PSU bracket and cut the back of Dark Side for it. Any way I do it, I will have to have a cover made for it. It also alters the location of the cable passthrough to some degree. So MB tray can't be locked in until I decide.









Decisions decisions... I just know that I cannot show up to PDXLan with a ghettofied PSU setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## longroadtrip

Can't wait to get these in the loop!


----------



## fa5terba11

Question - on a front mounted radiator is it better to have the fittings at the bottom or top?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Question - on a front mounted radiator is it better to have the fittings at the bottom or top?


the REAL question is.. where the Radiator Tank is !!!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Question - on a front mounted radiator is it better to have the fittings at the bottom or top?


Always try to have the inlet/outlet at the top if you can.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Question - on a front mounted radiator is it better to have the fittings at the bottom or top?


Whatever gives you the best hose routing.


----------



## fa5terba11

The radiator is an XSPC AX240


----------



## wrigleyvillain

When they are top you can't drain it without tilting either….


----------



## Wolfsbora

If they aren't at the top you can end up with major air traps.


----------



## Ramzinho

Air loves going upwards. if you have your ports towards the bottom. the tank will be at the top. where you might get air trapped and it will not end up well for you...


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless you have a drain port at the lowest point. Then you can turn system upside down connect a tube to that point and open the valve. If that's at all possible.







:

~Ceadder


----------



## airberg

It doesn't matter where the ports are. Top or bottom doesn't matter. What matters is when you're filling your loop, I prefer to lay it on the side or a direction to help get air out from your blocks. I fill without the pump as much as possible then bump the pump and fill and repeat until all air is gone.


----------



## Ceadderman

Likewise. But air builds up regardless of the angle of fill. Especially in the tank of a radiator. Filling while laying on the side should minimize things but if you have multiple radiators that air goes someplace.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Likewise. But air builds up regardless of the angle of fill. Especially in the tank of a radiator. Filling while laying on the side should minimize things but if you have multiple radiators that air goes someplace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yep, i second that.







But like i always do, i have the entry point of filling at the top most of the PC and the drain at the bottom most of the PC.. it has left me less hassle and no trouble since... even if you have a dual bay 5.25 tank at front... and a rad at top.. use the rad at top as a filling point


----------



## fa5terba11

Thanks for the info team! Another question - can I do a parallel config with just one gpu (both inlet and outlet on the same side)?


----------



## Ceadderman

With one card? That would be a no. Unless you can fit some kind of baffle to the internal structure of the block that would guarantee that flow isn't stopped.









~Ceadder


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Thanks for the info team! Another question - can I do a parallel config with just one gpu (both inlet and outlet on the same side)?


Parallel config means the two GPU waterblocks are essentially treated as one because water is flowing into both blocks simultaneously.

You can't have parallel configuration with a single GPU because there's only one block to fill. The inlet and outlet can be on the same side of the card. Just read the manual for your waterblock. They exist for a reason!


----------



## Ceadderman

Good time as any to ask if a EK Coolstream can be setup as a crossflow Radiator. PPCs has some still in Stock and I noticed the end port. I see that if I set it up that way that at least the final run would be a dead leg. What I am wanting to know is if the end of that radiator has baffles to keep the flow directional or if it's simply impossible based on the end being a single open chamber that pushes coolant back to the I/O ports.









~Ceadder


----------



## longroadtrip

EDIT: SMH looking atthe wrong one...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good time as any to ask if a EK Coolstream can be setup as a crossflow Radiator. PPCs has some still in Stock and I noticed the end port. I see that if I set it up that way that at least the final run would be a dead leg. What I am wanting to know is if the end of that radiator has baffles to keep the flow directional or if it's simply impossible based on the end being a single open chamber that pushes coolant back to the I/O ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You can, but need a good flow rate to begin with.
Would be similar to the results I got from the UT60 set up in X-Flow
Try to ensure the flow is evenly split/directed to the inlet ports.


----------



## Radnad

Yes I'm being way over dramatic, but as a water cooling peon it's always exciting as heck to see your rig show up in a water cooling product search on "The Google"!











And also yes, this was a shameless self indulgent plug...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good time as any to ask if a EK Coolstream can be setup as a crossflow Radiator. PPCs has some still in Stock and I noticed the end port. I see that if I set it up that way that at least the final run would be a dead leg. What I am wanting to know is if the end of that radiator has baffles to keep the flow directional or if it's simply impossible based on the end being a single open chamber that pushes coolant back to the I/O ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can, but need a good flow rate to begin with.
> Would be similar to the results I got from the UT60 set up in X-Flow
> Try to ensure the flow is evenly split/directed to the inlet ports.
Click to expand...

Would my DDCs running in series be enough?









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would my DDCs running in series be enough?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well it's more complicated than that unfortunately.
It's an interesting exercise to calculate your expected system flow rate prior to installing - or even purchasing components.
To begin with settle on a flow rate you would like to achieve - particularly in this case where you want to X-Flow a rad designed for U-Flow where for each half of the rad flow rate is actually halved also.

Now find the pressure rating for the pumps and pump top combination you intend to use - this will give you the usable pressure for the pumps at your desired flow rate.
I did a few pump and top combinations last year, but the list is far far from complete - Google may be you friend here.
here's an example of a dual DDC set up flow Vs pressure table.

So if you choose 1.5 gpm as a chosen flow rate you would have around 11 PSI worth of pressure to use.

Now you need to find restriction data for each component in your loop - cpu & gpu blocks, radiators, flow meter ect ect.
and note each components restriction pressure at 1.5 gpm, which would be 2.5 PSI in the following example
 

Add all these restriction pressures up and if it equals 11 PSI that would be incredible, as well as having your desired 1.5 gpm flow rate.
If your total pressure sum is less than 11 PSI then you will have more than 1.5 gpm system flow rate and could use less voltage or PWM power to achieve the 1.5 gpm flow rate, or be happy to have the higher flow rate








If your pressure sum is more than 11 PSI then the flow rate will be less than what you were looking for and have to settle for a lower flow rate or look at a different pump option.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks. +Rep for the information.









~Ceadder


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I'm still using 2x280x.
> To be honest its still doing what I need to do as I'm only playing on 1080p.
> Is it worth selling it now and get as much as I can and wait for the price drop on a 980ti or something?
> Or should I keep it? I just need peoples advice.
> They both come with EK 7970 blocks.
> 
> Edit: Also how much (£) should I ask for?


Special @Overclockers UK


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Special @Overclockers UK


Yeah, decisions..


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Yeah, decisions..


It seems so that some Shop's will increase the prices for the Fury-X, because they were pretty much sold-out within 24 hours and try to take advantage of the shortage.

Fury X selling like hot cakes and 'out of stock' at all major retailers on day 1

Sapphire Radeon R9 Fury X, 4GB for @AUD 1199,-

NVIDIA 980-Ti's cheaper at the same shop


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> It seems so that some Shop's will increase the prices for the Fury-X, because they were pretty much sold-out within 24 hours and try to take advantage of the shortage.
> 
> Fury X selling like hot cakes and 'out of stock' at all major retailers on day 1
> 
> Sapphire Radeon R9 Fury X, 4GB for @AUD 1199,-
> 
> NVIDIA 980-Ti's cheaper at the same shop


Wow really? I might wait a while and see what happens.
I didn't realise the Fury X was going to sell.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/eyljbsokj

Just got my block for the 980Ti, having Titan X on it is slightly annoying though.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/eyljbsokj
> 
> Just got my block for the 980Ti, having Titan X on it is slightly annoying though.


Nice. Yeah, I could understand that. I have OCD so that wouldn't work for me. Lol


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/eyljbsokj
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> \
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my block for the 980Ti, having Titan X on it is slightly annoying though.


I wasn't happy when I read that EK didn't have any plans of making a block and backplate at this time with the 980ti on it. I'm really hoping that in the near future someone makes a full block that actually has the 980ti logo on it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That annoyed me as well, even BitsPower's have a Titan X logo on them other than I thought I saw one w/out the logo: http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-vg-ngtxtitanx-full-cover-nickel-plated-copper-vga-waterblock-for-nvidia-titan-x-with-clear-acrylic-top.html#!prettyPhoto


----------



## Ceadderman

Does EK ever put someone else's logos and nomenclature on their blocks?









~Ceadder


----------



## khemist

Managed to strip one of the threads on the block around the core







screwed the rest in and put a zip tie around the block.. temps still seem good.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Ouch









It confuses me why manufacturers are using such soft metal for the block screws. One of the screws on my Heatkiller 7970 block are stripped too so I can't open up the block :/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Managed to strip one of the threads on the block around the core
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> screwed the rest in and *put a zip tie around the bloc*k.. temps still seem good.












Oh Boy.

TCO


----------



## khemist

I'll just screw in another taken from my 980 block, i'm assuming they are the same.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I'll just screw in another taken from my 980 block, i'm assuming they are the same.


You stripped the threads on the Screw, or did you strip the blocks' threads? Because if you just stripped the threads on the screw that ain't nothing but a chicken wing









TCO


----------



## cimi

Can i join the club







?


----------



## Ceadderman

I would check to see how bad the threads are gaffed and re-tap if it's possible.









~Ceadder


----------



## khemist

I'll check tomorrow, surely i can just unscrew a standoff from my 980 block and use that on the ti block if it's the inside of the standoff that's stripped.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I'll check tomorrow, surely i can just unscrew a standoff from my 980 block and use that on the ti block if it's the inside of the standoff that's stripped.


So the threading is stripped and not the head of the screw? Most likely you need to retap the threads.


----------



## fisher6

Turns out the stuff in my block that we all thought was plasticizer is NOT. The Advanced LRT tubing looks fine after I drained my loop today. Seems the CPU block is just a bit tarnished:





Will clean it with some lemon juice and wash off with distilled water.


----------



## Ceadderman

If that is a nickel plated block, I wouldn't suggest doing that. Bneg, snef, wermad or any number of Nickel plate junkies can help you in that regard. I *try* to stick with Copper myself.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Turns out the stuff in my block that we all thought was plasticizer is NOT. The Advanced LRT tubing looks fine after I drained my loop today. Seems the CPU block is just a bit tarnished:
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2501754/width/350/height/700]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2501754/width/350/height/700[/URL] Will clean it with some lemon juice and wash off with distilled water.
> Quote:
> [QUOTE]Originally Posted by [B]Ceadderman[/B] [URL=https://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/87240#post_24101143][IMG alt="View Post"]https://www.overclock.net/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/URL]
> 
> If that is a nickel plated block, I wouldn't suggest doing that. Bneg, snef, wermad or any number of Nickel plate junkies can help you in that regard. I *try* to stick with Copper myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


[/QUOTE]

What do you run for liquid?

Weiman polish/cleaner works on nickel.


----------



## jon666

Do the generic gpu blocks from swiftech still work on new amd cards? I need to replace my possibly dead 7870's, using my aircooled 6750 which I haven't managed to kill, and am looking for a good sale since everybody is probably going to try and clear stock. Also sent off my cpu block which was leaking, hopefully that gets sorted out. CPU block leaks and kills GPU's leaving CPU alone...I am kinda fine with this.


----------



## lurker2501

Question of the day: how do you properly mount a 420 rad up front on an Arc Midi? Need some ideas as I'm waiting for the new parts for my loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Change out the faceplate with a custom one and dump that Magicool unit for something shorter. HWLabs, EK... I am sure some builds something a bit shorter.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Question of the day: how do you properly mount a 420 rad up front on an Arc Midi? Need some ideas as I'm waiting for the new parts for my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

That's just *mean* Bneg.









~Ceadder


----------



## Blackops_2

I was going to suggest get to cutting lol


----------



## lurker2501

I'm thinking of M3 spacers and mounting it on a single 140mm fan with long M3 screws. Looks like it's the best possible variant without having to cut the front panel.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I feel like if you mount a 420mm int he front, it's going to interfere with the top 360mm rad won't it?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I feel like if you mount a 420mm int he front, it's going to interfere with the top 360mm rad won't it?


I think so as well. I still haven't done the measurements, but I'm hoping to squeeze it in without fans.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Change out the faceplate with a custom one and dump that Magicool unit for something shorter. HWLabs, EK... I am sure some builds something a bit shorter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Too much work for me. I want to do it with as little cutting and grinding as possible.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A nice and slow day for me today.....


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What do you run for liquid?
> 
> Weiman polish/cleaner works on nickel.


Been running EK clear coolant premixed for 3-4 months and nothing else. I found out that lemon juice isn't good for nickel plated blocks. How do you suggest using Weiman polish? Should I wash off with distilled water etc?

Thanks.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Question of the day: how do you properly mount a 420 rad up front on an Arc Midi? Need some ideas as I'm waiting for the new parts for my loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just use the fan mount? Is it tall enough to fit the rad there?
I shoved a 360mm rad on a 200r using one fan mount.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Just use the fan mount? Is it tall enough to fit the rad there?
> I shoved a 360mm rad on a 200r using one fan mount.


That's what I originally thought. But looks like the rad doesn't fit vertically as it is longer than the front panel: 423mm against 420mm. So this is the solution I came up with:


----------



## iateab

Phase one of first watercool


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> That's what I originally thought. But looks like the rad doesn't fit vertically as it is longer than the front panel: 423mm against 420mm. So this is the solution I came up with:


Ouch, very tight.
You could make some brackets just for a couple of screw mounts?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Ouch, very tight.
> You could make some brackets just for a couple of screw mounts?


I ain't got access to the rights tools to make custom brackets, so this is the only option for me so far. I'll probably mount the rad to the side of the case next to the psu and use double-sided tape to hold it in place.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> I ain't got access to the rights tools to make custom brackets, so this is the only option for me so far. I'll probably mount the rad to the side of the case next to the psu and use double-sided tape to hold it in place.


Best moto to live your life by. When in doubt use more tape.


----------



## Pheozero

Well, two 45° definitely isn't going to work. Plus even if it did, I wouldn't be able to tighten the compression fittings because that area is way to cramped to work in. I have to somehow route it out the front of card but I have no idea how I'm gonna manage to do that


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Do the generic gpu blocks from swiftech still work on new amd cards? I need to replace my possibly dead 7870's, using my aircooled 6750 which I haven't managed to kill, and am looking for a good sale since everybody is probably going to try and clear stock. Also sent off my cpu block which was leaking, hopefully that gets sorted out. CPU block leaks and kills GPU's leaving CPU alone...I am kinda fine with this.


no the uni blocks dont and they have no plans to support them.
copy-paste from our pm here

BramSLI1
Mar 3, 2015 at 11:04 am
I have to inform you that due to a dramatic decline in interest in those universal blocks we have no plans at this time to make them compatible with the 290(X) cards and might also be looking at discontinuing them altogether. I'm very sorry about this and I hope that this answers your question.

Regards,
BramSLI1

**at least i got about 3 years of use from my pair. im still not happy...**


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And im done for today.....


----------



## Kimir

The front is the reservoir, isn't it?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And im done for today.....


Man, can I just go to the school of B Neg's Custom PC Modding & Awesomeness. I bet I could get a loan for it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Do the generic gpu blocks from swiftech still work on new amd cards? I need to replace my possibly dead 7870's, using my aircooled 6750 which I haven't managed to kill, and am looking for a good sale since everybody is probably going to try and clear stock. Also sent off my cpu block which was leaking, hopefully that gets sorted out. CPU block leaks and kills GPU's leaving CPU alone...I am kinda fine with this.


Contact @BramSLI1 if compatibility w/ your uni block model. Man, I saw this question posted and someone did answer it. Iirc, it was announced that swiftech's uni block was not compatible w/ 290/290x but I did not see which block model specifically. Tbh, if the mounting holes line up and you can clear the card/pcb/components, It should work. Also, keep an eye out for used fullcover blocks (make sure your card is compatible), I've seen them approach ~$50 USD used.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> The front is the reservoir, isn't it?


It is indeed,full frontal action! I may even use Aurora for this build.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And im done for today.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, can I just go to the school of B Neg's Custom PC Modding & Awesomeness. I bet I could get a loan for it.
Click to expand...











My builds take a long time....I spend many an hour just looking at it and visualizing what could be.....


----------



## SlvrDragon50

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo HOLY CRAP.

THAT IS SO AWESOME.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> The front is the reservoir, isn't it?
> 
> 
> 
> It is indeed,full frontal action! I may even use Aurora for this build.....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And im done for today.....
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Man, can I just go to the school of B Neg's Custom PC Modding & Awesomeness. I bet I could get a loan for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My builds take a long time....I spend many an hour just looking at it and visualizing what could be.....
Click to expand...

Probably have your gaming monitors going full speed right next to it too.









J/K mate. One of my favorite modders on this forum.









~Ceadder


----------



## 1Quickchic

Snef that build of yours I'd amazing, major props on that man
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo HOLY CRAP.
> 
> THAT IS SO AWESOME.


+1 That is totally sick, I wish I could make something like that, just wow


----------



## TheCautiousOne

How about some Painting Today















TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Been running EK clear coolant premixed for 3-4 months and nothing else. I found out that lemon juice isn't good for nickel plated blocks. How do you suggest using Weiman polish? Should I wash off with distilled water etc?
> 
> Thanks.


Just rinse it at the faucet, dry completely. Add some polish-cleaner (any that is safe for nickel finish is good). I leave a small dab for a few seconds and then wipe for testing. If it looks good, I'll continue to clean it. IF you want to polish it, some elbow-grease for buffing is a must. If you can't get it off and you used EK's coolant, contact their support. It looks more like tarnish as nickel pealing would usually have bits of copper exposed.

Good luck and let us know what happens









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How about some Painting Today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Your energy boost?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just rinse it at the faucet, dry completely. Add some polish-cleaner (any that is safe for nickel finish is good). I leave a small dab for a few seconds and then wipe for testing. If it looks good, I'll continue to clean it. IF you want to polish it, some elbow-grease for buffing is a must. If you can't get it off and you used EK's coolant, contact their support. It looks more like tarnish as nickel pealing would usually have bits of copper exposed.
> 
> Good luck and let us know what happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your energy boost?


I'm glad I realized it wasn't Cool Whip









TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I'm glad I realized it wasn't Cool Whip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


MAN DON"T EAT THIS STUFF !!!
















Well done on the painting man well done


----------



## emsj86

B negative what size thickness rads fit in the hexgear r40 not sure about everyone else but I love that case and what you did made it just that much better. Wish they had or had plans for atx mobo version.


----------



## MocoIMO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> B negative what size thickness rads fit in the hexgear r40 not sure about everyone else but I love that case and what you did made it just that much better. Wish they had or had plans for atx mobo version.


I'm not sure if it was BNeg or Jameswalt that said it but if you don't put the hex top/bottom panels on you can do an unlimited thickness rad. To fit rads inside the the compartments they need to be like 27-30mm for the top/bottoms to slide back on for the complete look... I absolutely love the case but the rad limitations are what kill me since I'd need all new rads to transfer my system


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> MAN DON"T EAT THIS STUFF !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well done on the painting man well done


Thanks Man! I think I might let it dry until Thursday.

TCO


----------



## szeged

getting there


----------



## Buehlar

*Just wanting to show off my 3rd custom build guys...this is my 1st build from scratch!

Full specs and build log in my sig below







*

*Ebony & Ivory*


----------



## wermad

Awesome stuff


----------



## Ceadderman

Please tell me you're not taking *that* to PDXLan. Of that's the plan I may just chuck mine off the balcony.









~Ceadder


----------



## xarot

My stock Phanteks Enthoo Primo. Crappy phone quality...









I had great trouble getting the Titan X backplates to cover the all the memory chips so left them out. Not really happy how the tubing turned out but I am never going to do another WC loop without some QDCs.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> My stock Phanteks Enthoo Primo. Crappy phone quality...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had great trouble getting the Titan X backplates to cover the all the memory chips so left them out. Not really happy how the tubing turned out but I am never going to do another WC loop without some QDCs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What was the issue you were experiencing? Manufacturer?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> What was the issue you were experiencing? Manufacturer?


Do you mean with the backplates? I think it came down to EK as there have been multiple users with the same issue.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Do you mean with the backplates? I think it came down to EK as there have been multiple users with the same issue.


Yes, what was the issue? I haven't been in the Titan X or 980ti clubs to read up on it. I may be looking to grab some Ti's down the road.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Yes, what was the issue? I haven't been in the Titan X or 980ti clubs to read up on it. I may be looking to grab some Ti's down the road.


Same as here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1552203/titan-x-backplate-gap-between-some-memory-chips-and-thermal-pad-backplate


----------



## Kritikill

Yeah, that sucks. So what would be the issue? Trapping the heat? Normally they are just cooled by the open air, correct?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Yeah, that sucks. So what would be the issue? Trapping the heat? Normally they are just cooled by the open air, correct?


You are correct. So if there's no contact at all I think the memory chips are at risk of burning as they already run very hot with stock hsf and then they would be sitting under the backplate with absolutely no air flow. Some users reported that they simply bought another set of thermal pads but the price of them is just too much and a bit of hassle so I decided to cool them with airflow in my case. The waterblock already cools the VRM area. And I wouldn't like to DIY and invest any more in the backplates as I think the stock thermal pads and backplate should have worked out of the box. My cards or backplate weren't bent or anything.


----------



## waqasr

My ghetto test bench setup. Dont mind the untidy wires, still got to tidy them up. Consists on PA 120.3, 3 sanyo denki fans, laing d5, ek supreme and Phobya 150.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/waqasr/media/20150602_204632_zpspqer2cmb.jpg.html


----------



## deadwidesmile

Are QDC's decent? I've been wondering about them since I went custom loop and just have a bad feeling about them, heh.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Are QDC's decent? I've been wondering about them since I went custom loop and just have a bad feeling about them, heh.


Just don't get the black Koolance ones.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Are QDC's decent? I've been wondering about them since I went custom loop and just have a bad feeling about them, heh.


If you're going w/ the older version, the VLN3's had the best performance/restriction. The new ones, just don't get black painted ones as TCO mentioned. They have been non to crap out right away, especially at the threads/barbs.

edit: koolance qdc's btw


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Are QDC's decent? I've been wondering about them since I went custom loop and just have a bad feeling about them, heh.


I went with bitspower and they are REALLY hard to get disconnected almost feels like ur gonna break something else trying to get them to snap loose


----------



## DarthBaggins

I like the Bitspower QDC I have, but yeah they are tight and not easiest to get disconnected still want to snag another one for the return line to the res from my pedestal


----------



## VSG

I hear people here like big reservoirs? What about this one:










It's positively huge! So much so that I have to place a BP 1/2" x 3/4" compression fitting alongside for context:










Ok so maybe it's not that big at 50mm dia x 60mm height. But look at all the wee parts that are barely visible because of my shoddy photography here:










A male-male type fitting and voila:










11 cm tall res/pump combo anyone? It has multiple ports and an inline pipe as well. But I know what you are thinking. It's a DDC, it will overheat in small places with low airflow. Ok then what about these:



















Combined with these:










and you have these:



















These are 11.5 cm high, excuse the 5 min installation there. These will come in handy for case reviews to see watercooling potential now.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I like the Bitspower QDC I have, but yeah they are tight and not easiest to get disconnected still want to snag another one for the return line to the res from my pedestal


I think I know where you got that one









I discod them once and it just wasn't for me. But compared to Koolance QDC they are perfection.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Oh my, that little reservoir with heatsink and pump top is sooo cute!

Errr, I mean would be rather useful in specific circumstances!

Edit: also, who makes it?


----------



## VSG

This is from Barrow who seem to now have expanded their itinerary to accommodate original stuff as well as extremely inspired items from other brands apart from just Bitspower. This particular one is original, I couldn't find a smaller cylindrical reservoir and got these for a good price.

Cute was also the first thing that came to a lot of people's minds when I showed these pics


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I love that res. I have my EK res mounted the same way to my D5 right now. That said, I wouldn't buy a new res unless mine failed for some reason.


----------



## pc-illiterate

60x60 uh, ppcs calls it 50x60 and sidewinder says 60x60

i love that is all compact though. pretty nice.
so yeah, bitspower 40ml


----------



## VSG

The Bitspower versions are 60 dia x 60 height or 60 dia x 70 height and are designed such that two ports at the bottom are used for the loop in conjunction with a sponge to dissipate turbulence along with a top fill port. This is 50 diam x 60 height with two ports at the top for fill and return line with one at the bottom for pump inlet although I supppose one could flip this over and use it in theory.


----------



## yoi

u say barrows . how long is the shipping waiting? . asuming u are buying it from alienxpress


----------



## VSG

No, I bought this off a US seller who unfortunately had a liquidation sale on the day of opening his new shop. Everything shipped from continental USA itself and uses priority took 2 business days.


----------



## szeged

opening day liquidation sale? does...not...compute....*mindblow*


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless his initials are MFj. Then it makes *perfect* sense.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> opening day liquidation sale? does...not...compute....*mindblow*


lol, that's what I thought.

Side note:

was looking for the ebay barrow seller but I was struck in awe by this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUND-COLOR-PHOTO-T-6990-MAN-LAYING-ON-COUCH-WITH-DOG-ON-CHEST-/291491508208?&_trksid=p2056016.m2516.l5255

It really brought back memories of ebay auctioning off virginity.....







....


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> lol, that's what I thought.
> 
> Side note:
> 
> was looking for the ebay barrow seller but I was struck in awe by this:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUND-COLOR-PHOTO-T-6990-MAN-LAYING-ON-COUCH-WITH-DOG-ON-CHEST-/291491508208?&_trksid=p2056016.m2516.l5255
> 
> It really brought back memories of ebay auctioning off virginity.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


well...now i need that photo...thanks.


----------



## wermad

edit:

consider this one too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUND-COLOR-PHOTO-T-9379-BEARDED-MAN-LAYING-ON-COUCH-WITH-CAT-ON-CHEST/301671786612?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31966%26meid%3Df7631eb615b44351af47724544280360%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D291491508208&rt=nc


----------



## szeged

great, there goes all my shadows of mordor funding right there rofl.


----------



## VSG

Lol those items are clearly collector's editions.

As far as the unfortunate seller in question: http://www.liquidcool.net


----------



## SteezyTN

Okay, need a little help. I'll be using two D5 PWM pumps in a series connection. I'm thinking about upgrading my pump/res to the XSPC Photon 270 D5 pump/res because I'm getting a Case Labs SMA8 (I'm selling my current Photon 170 vario to a friend, plus it would look small I'm this case). Are all D5 pumps close/similar in performance? I thought about going with the EK-Xres and adding the 250 tube, but almost everyone does that. Would I be okay with the 270 D5 pump/res combo?

I may get one and see how flow is, because I'll be running 4 radiators, 2 GPU's, and a CPU block.

RX480
RX360
RX24
Black ice 560 GTS


----------



## wermad

I'm using one single variable D5 (@ #5) for my entire loop. Most are similar in specs just rebranded. Two should handle your loop nicely.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm using one single variable D5 (@ #5) for my entire loop. Most are similar in specs just rebranded. Two should handle your loop nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I remember saying you use one D5. How many rads are you running through? I may just get one D5 for now (when the case comes), then get a second if I need it. I just hope the D5 photon would be okay (assuming all D5's perform similar)


----------



## wermad

6x UT86 480s
2x UT86 560s


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lol those items are clearly collector's editions.
> 
> As far as the unfortunate seller in question: http://www.liquidcool.net


Doesn't look like much is left, but those are good prices for elbows if anyone needs to stock up, especially if your not fond of dragons...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 6x UT86 480s
> 2x UT86 560s


Are you freaking kidding me? Dang man. That's like 3 times more rad space than why I'll be using. If you got a second pump, so you think your temps would decrease, or since you have so many rads it wouldn't make a difference?

If you have that many, then I think I'll just get one for now, then possibly get a second later.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Doesn't look like much is left, but those are good prices for elbows if anyone needs to stock up, especially if your not fond of dragons...


I think he has more than what the website indicates.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Are you freaking kidding me? Dang man. That's like 3 times more rad space than why I'll be using. If you got a second pump, so you think your temps would decrease, or since you have so many rads it wouldn't make a difference?
> 
> If you have that many, then I think I'll just get one for now, then possibly get a second later.


Nope, won't see a difference in temps tbh. I'm not running a bunch of blocks like I did before (ram, vrm, pch, etc.) but I upped the ante w/ rads this time around. I did run a single DDC at full power in this build:


----------



## Trestles126

front a6 cover. coulda been a bit better.... didn't think out the logo that much at the angle u look at it the Labs part of the logo is hard to see but custom and cool none the less and cleaned up that area nicely i think


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nope, won't see a difference in temps tbh. I'm not running a bunch of blocks like I did before (ram, vrm, pch, etc.) but I upped the ante w/ rads this time around. I did run a single DDC at full power in this build:


i miss that build log


----------



## Ceadderman

Build log?









Really would like to know what you used to build that CL cover.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Build log?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really would like to know what you used to build that CL cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I will add it to my sig! Not to much info there but I basically have a friend that works for a acrlic display company he has a laser cutter cad machine


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> front a6 cover. coulda been a bit better.... didn't think out the logo that much at the angle u look at it the Labs part of the logo is hard to see but custom and cool none the less and cleaned up that area nicely i think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


I'm sure the led's are reflecting off the tube, but that looks sweet. almost begs the notion there's built in led's in the tube. Patent time!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i miss that build log


Yeah, same here (wipes single tear drop). Love the fans too. But, having a big case, might as well go grotesquely overkill with the TX10







.

What temps you seeing on your TX's? I'm eyeing Ti's for down the road when it comes time to retire my Hawaii's. I was disappointed in Fury X







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Build log?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really would like to know what you used to build that CL cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Same here! How about a custom vinyl sticker over a clear peace of plexi and the some illumination. I'm tossing the idea of doing an illuminated floor.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, same here (wipes single tear drop). Love the fans too. But, having a big case, might as well go grotesquely overkill with the TX10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> What temps you seeing on your TX's? I'm eyeing Ti's for down the road when it comes time to retire my Hawaii's. I was disappointed in Fury X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


idle temps are around 27c with ambient temps of around 25/26c in game load temps in lords of the fallen @ 4k maximum settings max temp recorded has been 36c.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Build log?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really would like to know what you used to build that CL cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will add it to my sig! Not to much info there but I basically have a friend that works for a acrlic display company he has a laser cutter cad machine
Click to expand...

Hmmmm maybe we should talk.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> idle temps are around 27c with ambient temps of around 25/26c in game load temps in lords of the fallen @ 4k maximum settings max temp recorded has been 36c.


em chilly Maxies, damn, very cool. How's your scaling in 4k? Similar to GK110???


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think he has more than what the website indicates.


So you can vouch that you fully received all products ordered from him? Because I'm debating on putting an order in for a reservoir or two from there.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> em chilly Maxies, damn, very cool. How's your scaling in 4k? Similar to GK110???


yeah max likes to run nice and cold







scaling is great in 4k. Better than gk110 imo.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> idle temps are around 27c with ambient temps of around 25/26c in game load temps in lords of the fallen @ 4k maximum settings max temp recorded has been 36c.


Are those with the 360GTX's? Hopefully my RX480, Rx360, RX240 and 560GTS will bring my 2 TX temps to less than 40.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Are those with the 360GTX's? Hopefully my RX480, Rx360, RX240 and 560GTS will bring my 2 TX temps to less than 40.


yep


----------



## wermad

If you reed his rig specs, it says it all


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lol those items are clearly collector's editions.
> 
> As far as the unfortunate seller in question: http://www.liquidcool.net


Nice! Thanks! Glass reservoir sounds awesome.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, I bought this off a US seller who unfortunately *had a liquidation sale on the day of opening his new shop.* Everything shipped from continental USA itself and uses priority took 2 business days.


This is like getting killed by the last bullet fired in a war.


----------



## fisher6

Anybody knows how to best remove metal polish from CPU block? Cleaned my EK EVO nickel block with autosol and a toothbrush and it worked very well but it seems hard to get all the cream out from the fins. Can I use anything like alcohol on a nickel block? Thanks.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> So you can vouch that you fully received all products ordered from him? Because I'm debating on putting an order in for a reservoir or two from there.


Yeah I am more than happy with the entire purchase. It went via PayPal anyway.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I think I know where you got that one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I discod them once and it just wasn't for me. But compared to Koolance QDC they are perfection.


Gee I wonder where that QDC came from lol, it really works nicely where I have in connecting the rear to the pedestal


----------



## Domler

Hey guys. Quick question. I am starting my new build and need a little help with fluid. I have been running mayhems pastel white for a while now and its been great. Its also the only fluid I have ran. But in my new build, I want to be able to run uv dye. I want to be able to dump the fluid, flush system and change to a different color. I know that distilled water is best, with additives. And now this is were I am getting nervous. I am switching over to monsoon petg, monsoon economy fittings, which have silver in them already. Nickels blocks with copper from the vii mosfit heatsink, and the rads of course. Some additives say they don't play well with each other. I am looking for best combo of liquid, dye, inhibitors, and antimicrobial. Clear liquid, not pastel. I keep researching and hear conflicting answers. Any input would be great.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anybody knows how to best remove metal polish from CPU block? Cleaned my EK EVO nickel block with autosol and a toothbrush and it worked very well but it seems hard to get all the cream out from the fins. Can I use anything like alcohol on a nickel block? Thanks.


So you put that IN the fins?!?









I think you'll need to soak it in 90% isopropyl. Cause the only way I know is polish and wipe. Which obviously cannot be done in the internal fin surfaces.









The isopropyl shouldn't damage the nickel surface. I use it to clean my CPUs of TIM all the time. The IHS of a CPU is nickel plated copper.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Try putting distilled water in a squirt bottle and see if the preasure of the distilled water removes the polish


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Hey guys. Quick question. I am starting my new build and need a little help with fluid. I have been running mayhems pastel white for a while now and its been great. Its also the only fluid I have ran. But in my new build, I want to be able to run uv dye. I want to be able to dump the fluid, flush system and change to a different color. I know that distilled water is best, with additives. And now this is were I am getting nervous. I am switching over to monsoon petg, monsoon economy fittings, which have silver in them already. Nickels blocks with copper from the vii mosfit heatsink, and the rads of course. Some additives say they don't play well with each other. I am looking for best combo of liquid, dye, inhibitors, and antimicrobial. Clear liquid, not pastel. I keep researching and hear conflicting answers. Any input would be great.


Well, the best combo would be Mayhem's X1 as it contains all of the inhibitors (corrosion and antimicrobial) in it. However, if would be my recommendation that if you are going to be going from a Pastel to a transparent liquid, you should Blitz your system to get every last bit of pastel particles out of it.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Try putting distilled water in a squirt bottle and see if the preasure of the distilled water removes the polish


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Try putting distilled water in a squirt bottle and see if the preasure of the distilled water removes the polish


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So you put that IN the fins?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you'll need to soak it in 90% isopropyl. Cause the only way I know is polish and wipe. Which obviously cannot be done in the internal fin surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The isopropyl shouldn't damage the nickel surface. I use it to clean my CPUs of TIM all the time. The IHS of a CPU is nickel plated copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for your suggestions. I managed to get all of it I think. I just used a new toothbrush and the fins look clean. I will get some alcohol tomorrow and soak it in. Do you know for how long it should be done?


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Well, the best combo would be Mayhem's X1 as it contains all of the inhibitors (corrosion and antimicrobial) in it. However, if would be my recommendation that if you are going to be going from a Pastel to a transparent liquid, you should Blitz your system to get every last bit of pastel particles out of it.


Thank you for the tip. I have heard of Blitz pro before. Heard some horror story with that stuff. Guess I could chalk that up with human error.


----------



## Domler

Side note. Being my first Caselabs, is it customary to freak out knowing its going to ship today, or tomorrow? I am checking my email every 5 minutes.







Then no email







Rinse and repeat. I was doing very well the first six weeks. I am very proud of myself. This past week, not so much. The wait just might kill me.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Side note. Being my first Caselabs, is it customary to freak out knowing its going to ship today, or tomorrow? I am checking my email every 5 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then no email
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rinse and repeat. I was doing very well the first six weeks. I am very proud of myself. This past week, not so much. The wait just might kill me.


It's normal. I mean you have waited 6 weeks. Just sit back and relax some more.

TCO


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's normal. I mean you have waited 6 weeks. Just sit back and relax some more.
> 
> TCO


Yeah, I am not mad at Caselabs. I am in love with them. They really are the best. I part that's killing me is I am on vaca this week and the next. If I was at work, I would be to busy to think about it. Now I am doing prep work getting ready for the case. And it seems the more time I have before the case, the more stuff I think of I can do to it. The more money I spend. How many times can I tell the wife, this is it, its the last thing. Then I am done.







Then again. Hold on. I got an idea.


----------



## wermad

If you ordered black, time to fire some emails (5-7 weeks). IF you ordered white, gunmetal, primer, or a two-tone, there's a long wait period right now (6-7+ weeks). Reason why, starting tomorrow, they are temporarily discontinuing white, gunmetal, and primer for the chassis.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Yeah, I am not mad at Caselabs. I am in love with them. They really are the best. I part that's killing me is I am on vaca this week and the next. If I was at work, I would be to busy to think about it. Now I am doing prep work getting ready for the case. And it seems the more time I have before the case, the more stuff I think of I can do to it. The more money I spend. *How many times can I tell the wife, this is it, its the last thing. Then I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then again. Hold on. I got an idea.*


That's where you are messing up, Telling her you are done before you have really even started.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Should remove "done, finished and complete" from marital conversation entirely. Sure would save a lot of marriages I think.

I try to refrain from it myself.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should remove "done, finished and complete" from marital conversation entirely. Sure would save a lot of marriages I think.
> 
> I try to refrain from it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am not even married and I don't even say Dangerous things like that.









TCO


----------



## electro2u

I'm proof that Watercooling leads to lower temps and sometime also divorce









but I'm freeeeeeee! hallelujah


----------



## Ceadderman

You live in the US. You *AIN'T* free. It's only a figment of your imagination.









~Ceadder


----------



## Domler

I have been saying for three years now. I think she is catching on. Her eyes say it all. Thank the heavens she has no idea how much this stuff really costs. You know, I bought a second psu, evga p2 1600 watts, 100 bucks. Titan x, its like 400 bucks. My water cooling setup, maybe 150 bucks.







Some how she didn't notice, or didn't say anything, when I got my second 780ti. I was curious what was going to happen that day. All in all, she is great. She knows I love it and doesn't ask how much. Just gives me those eyes when I say "this is it, I swear."







Yeah, I bet. I cant help it if they keep coming out with cool new stuff. Really, its not my fault.


----------



## wermad

Best answer to wife/significant-other:

"Yes dear!"


----------



## Domler

Painted some of my fitting where the silver shines through on some spots. Left to right. Painted taped, no tape, cleaned up, o ring, assembled. Used plastidip so the teeth can bit to the o ring.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Best answer to wife/significant-other:
> 
> "Yes dear!"


I thought that was the ONLY answer.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You live in the US. You *AIN'T* free. It's only a figment of your imagination.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Were all slaves to the mighty dollar in the end.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> Painted some of my fitting where the silver shines through on some spots. Left to right. Painted taped, no tape, cleaned up, o ring, assembled. Used plastidip so the teeth can bit to the o ring.












Um... I would be afraid of the paint chipping off during installation and going into my fluid.

TCO


----------



## Domler

Example: left side,no paint. Right side painted. There is no paint where the o ring goes. Hmmm. Haven't made a final decision. I might sacrifice looks for safty. Then again, this is overclocker.net. I'm gonna paint my motherboard thou.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I have been saying for three years now. I think she is catching on. Her eyes say it all. Thank the heavens she has no idea how much this stuff really costs. You know, I bought a second psu, *evga p2 1600 watts, 100 bucks. Titan x, its like 400 bucks. My water cooling setup, maybe 150 bucks.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Some how she didn't notice, or didn't say anything*, when I got my second 780ti. I was curious what was going to happen that day. All in all, she is great. She knows I love it and doesn't ask how much. Just gives me those eyes when I say "this is it, I swear."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I bet. I cant help it if they keep coming out with cool new stuff. Really, its not my fault.


lmao, you may be playing with fire here...







good thing you are also into watercooling...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> Example: left side,no paint. Right side painted. There is no paint where the o ring goes. Hmmm. Haven't made a final decision. I might sacrifice looks for safty. Then again, this is overclocker.net. I'm *gonna paint my motherboard* thou.










Sounds Familiar

TCO


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds Familiar
> 
> TCO


I got a vii formula and I want the red gone. I have seen everybody say no. Not a fan of spray painting it. I did see a guy do it buy hand with model paint. I also saw a guy paint the pcie slots on the sides and covered the tops with vynal wrap. If I kill my board, then I'll buy the saber tooth. And everyone can get in line to say " I told you so". But, if it's works....it will be awesome.


----------



## Domler

Any tips? Other than don't.


----------



## szeged

Make sure to get as much paint in the socket as possible.










Serious though, take your time masking off everything you don't want painted. It's better to spend 3 hours doing prep work instead of 20 hours fixing the one mistake or spending $300 buying a new one.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Any tips? Other than don't.


I've Done it. Feel free to check out my SMA8 (The Division) build Log.

You can Click this For Enthusiasm and Entertainment

The Cautious One

I think @snef Painted a sabertooth... or Griffin Motherboard?


----------



## Ceadderman

I think a new has painted a multitude of MBs.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Domler

That's awesome. Thank you.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> That's awesome. Thank you.


Just saying, Some of us take chances on 500$ motherboards too









TCO


----------



## ledzepp3

Well I have bad news... While I was out of the country for a week, wicked weather hit the mid-western parts of the United States, causing one of my 290X's to go pop. It's completely dead, and I was looking for some other opinions on what I should do. My other 290X still works totally fine, and both cards are underwater currently in a pretty beefy loop. I'm somewhat on a budget as I'm buying a different car at the end of the summer for my daily, but whatever happens, the rig needs to push dual 1080P monitors at high frame rates (100+).

I was thinking about waiting for a little bit and seeing how my financial situation is coming along and investing in a FuryX, assuming the coil whine issue is either fixed by AMD or the consumers figure out a way to quiet it down. Surely there'll be a waterblock for it sometime soon from EK?

-Zepp


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Well I have bad news... While I was out of the country for a week, wicked weather hit the mid-western parts of the United States, causing one of my 290X's to go pop. It's completely dead, and I was looking for some other opinions on what I should do. My other 290X still works totally fine, and both cards are underwater currently in a pretty beefy loop. I'm somewhat on a budget as I'm buying a different car at the end of the summer for my daily, but whatever happens, the rig needs to push dual 1080P monitors at high frame rates (100+).
> 
> I was thinking about waiting for a little bit and seeing how my financial situation is coming along and investing in a FuryX, assuming the coil whine issue is either fixed by AMD or the consumers figure out a way to quiet it down. Surely there'll be a waterblock for it sometime soon from EK?
> 
> -Zepp


Ouch, that sucks. I'm over in Urbana.

The Fury X is already watercooled, no need to get a waterblock?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Well I have bad news... While I was out of the country for a week, wicked weather hit the mid-western parts of the United States, causing one of my 290X's to go pop. It's completely dead, and I was looking for some other opinions on what I should do. My other 290X still works totally fine, and both cards are underwater currently in a pretty beefy loop. I'm somewhat on a budget as I'm buying a different car at the end of the summer for my daily, but whatever happens, the rig needs to push dual 1080P monitors at high frame rates (100+).
> 
> I was thinking about waiting for a little bit and seeing how my financial situation is coming along and investing in a FuryX, assuming the coil whine issue is either fixed by AMD or the consumers figure out a way to quiet it down. Surely there'll be a waterblock for it sometime soon from EK?
> 
> -Zepp


Just out of curiosity, did you have your pc on a UPS or surge protector.


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Ouch, that sucks. I'm over in Urbana.
> 
> The Fury X is already watercooled, no need to get a waterblock?


i would really call that water cooled is more getto really. alot of people are complaining that the cool master pump on the AIO is a loud noise piece of crap and a water block is always better since it covers everything . they are just using a few heat pipes to the other parts not cooled by the gpu die part .


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> i would really call that water cooled is more getto really. alot of people are complaining that the cool master pump on the AIO is a loud noise piece of crap and a water block is always better since it covers everything . they are just using a few heat pipes to the other parts not cooled by the gpu die part .


Uhhh... what are you talking about?

http://www.legitreviews.com/amd-radeon-r9-fury-x-complete-teardown_166851

Full coverage water block.


----------



## Ceadderman

And the disinformation persists. The number of complaints is surprisingly very low considering the card is less than a week old.

And most of them are coming from the nVidigeeks side.









~Ceadder


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Yea. I just googled it and was surprised to see "complaints of pump noise"

There's no way that pump is louder than a stock fan. If you're complaining of pump noise, you have to be nitpicking to find that flaw.


----------



## Domler

And for those wondering, no email. Talked to KC last week and it should ship early this week. Maybe that's why my excitement is at a fever pitch. Gotta be tomarrow. Right??


----------



## sdmf74

Im in a bind here and hoping you guys can help, Im having issues draining my loop. My pump died last week and my drain ports not workin. Whats the best/safest way to drain all the water?
Ive got 2 rads, cpu,gpu block & motherboard and an inline res. any suggestions?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im in a bind here and hoping you guys can help, Im having issues draining my loop. My pump died last week and my drain ports not workin. Whats the best/safest way to drain all the water?
> Ive got 2 rads, cpu,gpu block & motherboard and an inline res. any suggestions?


Did you open the fill port on the reservoir? It'll help when draining the loop.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im in a bind here and hoping you guys can help, Im having issues draining my loop. My pump died last week and my drain ports not workin. Whats the best/safest way to drain all the water?
> Ive got 2 rads, cpu,gpu block & motherboard and an inline res. any suggestions?


Empty the res if you can by tipping over the case. Or put the case on its side and open up one of the res ports.

Or just start to undo one of the fittings with a cup underneath.

Water isn't that dangerous to the system as long as there is absolutely no power. Just make sure it's 100% dry when you boot it up.


----------



## Domler

Lots of paper towel.


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah I opened a port on the res. Im gonna give it another go, gonna be a painfully slow process. Wish me luck


----------



## sdmf74

ok thought I should give an update. I got the res pumped dry and most of the water out of the rads etc. I just needed to take a step back and take a breath and find the best point to disconnect like sd50 said and went from there. wasnt as bad as I thought, at least not yet anyway.
Now I gotta figure a different more logical place to put my drainport, best bet is prolly off the pump somehow but not sure how thats gonna work/look just yet

Hopefully this dead water copper sulfate stuff isnt too unhealthy, got a big mouthful of water when I initially tried to get this other old half a** pump goin. to drain


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Well I have bad news... While I was out of the country for a week, wicked weather hit the mid-western parts of the United States, causing one of my 290X's to go pop. It's completely dead, and I was looking for some other opinions on what I should do. My other 290X still works totally fine, and both cards are underwater currently in a pretty beefy loop. I'm somewhat on a budget as I'm buying a different car at the end of the summer for my daily, but whatever happens, the rig needs to push dual 1080P monitors at high frame rates (100+).
> 
> I was thinking about waiting for a little bit and seeing how my financial situation is coming along and investing in a FuryX, assuming the coil whine issue is either fixed by AMD or the consumers figure out a way to quiet it down. Surely there'll be a waterblock for it sometime soon from EK?
> 
> -Zepp


sorry to hear that Zepp- my condolences for the loss. if that was the only component you lost it almost seems like a coincidence. I would RMA.

the noise reports on the fury x seem overblown. I think I'd opt for a 980 ti instead but not because of the noise. Yes there will be a waterblock for the furyx. No doubt. At any rate in your situation i would probably just replace the 290 once the rma was concluded.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I have been saying for three years now. I think she is catching on. Her eyes say it all. Thank the heavens she has no idea how much this stuff really costs. You know, I bought a second psu, evga p2 1600 watts, 100 bucks. Titan x, its like 400 bucks. My water cooling setup, maybe 150 bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some how she didn't notice, or didn't say anything, when I got my second 780ti. I was curious what was going to happen that day. All in all, she is great. She knows I love it and doesn't ask how much. Just gives me those eyes when I say "this is it, I swear."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I bet. I cant help it if they keep coming out with cool new stuff. Really, its not my fault.


Our apartment often looks like a bomb blasted there with parts all around, but that's usually when my wife and kid sleeps and I'll tidy up before the morning. She doesn't really know how much this stuff costs in the end but she doesn't really need to either as we have our own money on top of our shared, saved and vacation money that both can spend however we like. I don't really spend much on anything else. These days if I swap my case or monitor I'll first make sure my wife likes the looks of them as inside the case I can do whatever I want, I think it's a fair deal in the end. To my surprise she actually encouraged me last week and said it's great to see someone has a passion for something like I have into this hobby.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I got a vii formula and I want the red gone. I have seen everybody say no. Not a fan of spray painting it. I did see a guy do it buy hand with model paint. I also saw a guy paint the pcie slots on the sides and covered the tops with vynal wrap. If I kill my board, then I'll buy the saber tooth. And everyone can get in line to say " I told you so". But, if it's works....it will be awesome.


I've painted my EVGA SR-2 with model paint, specifically the I/O area, RAM slots, caps and the PCI-E slots, covered the
PCI-E slots with vinyl wrap (painted that too, because it wasn't the same shade of black as the model paint). I must admit
I was a bit nervous about it because the board is practically irreplaceable at this point, but it's been online for more
than a year now and is still working (knock on wood).

Painted, but still without vinyl:









And with the vinyl. You can also see the painted caps; I didn't paint their sides because I wasn't quite sure how
much the paint would affect heat dissipation (probably not much, but wasn't willing to take the chance).









The paint I used was Humbrol Enamel paint:









I think my most important piece of advice would be not to rush it and to take the usual precautions you do when
handling a piece of hardware, then you should be fine.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think he has more than what the website indicates.


Well I ordered a bunch of elbows from them getting ready to upgrade to hardline, so we'll see. Can't beat half price fittings, even if not name brand.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Our apartment often looks like a bomb blasted there with parts all around, but that's usually when my wife and kid sleeps and I'll tidy up before the morning. She doesn't really know how much this stuff costs in the end but she doesn't really need to either as we have our own money on top of our shared, saved and vacation money that both can spend however we like. I don't really spend much on anything else. These days if I swap my case or monitor I'll first make sure my wife likes the looks of them as inside the case I can do whatever I want, I think it's a fair deal in the end. To my surprise she actually encouraged me last week and said it's great to see someone has a passion for something like I have into this hobby.


Haha little do you know she has a big honey do job in the wait. Buttering you up lol just kidding


----------



## lowfat

Did some polishing today. Now w/ proper polishes and tools.









Shame the pump insides are rather ugly.


----------



## DarthBaggins

missed a spot in the threads, lol







Looks good


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> missed a spot in the threads, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good


I've polished them to the best of my ability. But I haven't really figured out a way that works well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think the way you just did it turned out really well, I'd stick to that method


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've polished them to the best of my ability. But I haven't really figured out a way that works well.


What are you doing differently Lowfat?

This is... Just... Amazing









TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've polished them to the best of my ability. But I haven't really figured out a way that works well.


Your ability is top notch! What block is that? Btw, my mom's husband emailed me (they live about 4 hours away) wanting to show me your Lian-Li build from an article he found. He said your attention to detail and your sleeving is the best he had ever seen. I thought it was pretty awesome that he wanted to show me your build. Just thought I'd share.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Wolfsbora In the Polish Guide he said it is the Original CsQ and Sanded down the Circles.









TCO


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What are you doing differently Lowfat?
> 
> This is... Just... Amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Using the foam pad + drill attachment from a 3M headlight restortation kit. Sanded as normal. Then polished using the drill attachment + PlastX. Then finished off w/ CarPro Reflect. Also w/ the drill attachment. All the insides still were done by hand.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Your ability is top notch! What block is that? Btw, my mom's husband emailed me (they live about 4 hours away) wanting to show me your Lian-Li build from an article he found. He said your attention to detail and your sleeving is the best he had ever seen. I thought it was pretty awesome that he wanted to show me your build. Just thought I'd share.


It is the EK CSQ block that I have sanded off all the circles and logos. Thanks for that.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Ouch, that sucks. I'm over in Urbana.
> 
> The Fury X is already watercooled, no need to get a waterblock?


Someone might already have a full fledged watercooling setup to integrate the card into? Also, AIO cooling isn't anywhere near the prettiest.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Uhhh... what are you talking about?
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/amd-radeon-r9-fury-x-complete-teardown_166851
> 
> Full coverage water block.


Neat to see they did that, but such a pity at the sheer amount of restriction that's probably faced with things. Also, a single 120mm radiator means noisier fans in comparison to what someone could do with a fully fledged custom watercooling setup, not to mention the sexyness of an EK full coverage block.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> I've painted my EVGA SR-2 with model paint, specifically the I/O area, RAM slots, caps and the PCI-E slots, covered the
> PCI-E slots with vinyl wrap (painted that too, because it wasn't the same shade of black as the model paint). I must admit
> I was a bit nervous about it because the board is practically irreplaceable at this point, but it's been online for more
> than a year now and is still working (knock on wood).
> 
> Painted, but still without vinyl:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the vinyl. You can also see the painted caps; I didn't paint their sides because I wasn't quite sure how
> much the paint would affect heat dissipation (probably not much, but wasn't willing to take the chance).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The paint I used was Humbrol Enamel paint:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think my most important piece of advice would be not to rush it and to take the usual precautions you do when
> handling a piece of hardware, then you should be fine.


Good idea. I did the same thing recently for my HTPC but i used heatshrink and vinyl sticker. I don't think Im comfortable with paint haha.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

That heatshrink and Vinyl is impressive!

TCO


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That heatshrink and Vinyl is impressive!
> 
> TCO


Thanks man. The board cost me £6. So couldn't turn it down.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Thanks man. The board cost me £6. So couldn't turn it down.


Yea for 6 pounds, Why Not Right?







(or is that franks)

TCO


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea for 6 pounds, Why Not Right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (or is that franks)
> 
> TCO


I can barely buy 2 pints with 6 pounds.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> I can barely buy 2 pints with 6 pounds.


I thought it was Pounds.









TCO


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Good idea. I did the same thing recently for my HTPC but i used heatshrink and vinyl sticker. I don't think Im comfortable with paint haha.


Haha, considering how nervous I was when I took the brush to my board I fuly understand that. Hell, I'm
still kinda nervous about my board dying on me, even now that it's just running in the build (while the
build is not yet done, I have had it up and running in sort of a ghetto setup since Feb 2014 while I save
up the money to complete it, which has turned out to be rather difficult due to ongoing health issues and
a few unforeseen expenses for other things). Problem is, if it does die, it will be practically impossible to
replace, and I have sunk a ton of money into the platform by now (board, CPUs, M/B blocks), so I'll be pretty
hosed.

Anyway, seriously nice work, that looks extremely clean!


----------



## derickwm

Fury X inbound...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1563003/project-tortie-fury-x-5930k-soc-force-enthoo-primo-liquid-cooling


----------



## wermad

Derickwm has an orange crush







(or just recycling the hardware from the sth10?).


----------



## derickwm

The build and the parts have quite a long story at this point... But orange #1


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Ouch, that sucks. I'm over in Urbana.
> 
> The Fury X is already watercooled, no need to get a waterblock?


I've got a 560mm and a 360mm rad in my rig, why would I only run those on a CPU loop?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, did you have your pc on a UPS or surge protector.


I did have it on a UPS, but since I live at home (18, woot), while I was gone on a trip, my mom unplugged it despite me specifically telling her that if she were to move anything or if my computer turned off (crashed), that it'd be awesome if she could text me what happened. Power outage, and bam- dead GPU, due to my mom moving my desk and ultimately my UPS.

So should I wait a little to see what happens with the Fury and splurge, or should I hunt down another 290X?

-Zepp


----------



## Faster_is_better

PPCs discount for the 4th of July







!!!



Source via @Onyxian


----------



## emsj86

So I've been browsing cases. Obviously stuck mainly on caselabs. Now as mentioned before I love the look of side mounted rads on the bottom of case like sm8 900d etc. that being said I've been looking at the tj07 and see it around 300-400. What's some thoughts on this case. Really don't like the duel 80mm fans on the back but from those whom have used it what's some pros and cons. Maybe a build log or pics of what can be done. Thanks in advance. Jim


----------



## Ceadderman

Wish I had the thousand to get my Loop finished today. 10% is an awesome offer.









Yes it's going to cost *that much* to get my loop finished. Not including MB tray, exterior pieces and paint done.


















~Ceadder


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I've got a 560mm and a 360mm rad in my rig, why would I only run those on a CPU loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have it on a UPS, but since I live at home (18, woot), while I was gone on a trip, my mom unplugged it despite me specifically telling her that if she were to move anything or if my computer turned off (crashed), that it'd be awesome if she could text me what happened. Power outage, and bam- dead GPU, due to my mom moving my desk and ultimately my UPS.
> 
> So should I wait a little to see what happens with the Fury and splurge, or should I hunt down another 290X?
> 
> -Zepp


I'm just saying, if you're gonna buy a waterblock, you should pick up a card that doesn't have one like the 980 Ti. Otherwise you're just paying money for watercooling that you aren't using.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I've been browsing cases. Obviously stuck mainly on caselabs. Now as mentioned before I love the look of side mounted rads on the bottom of case like sm8 900d etc. that being said I've been looking at the tj07 and see it around 300-400. What's some thoughts on this case. Really don't like the duel 80mm fans on the back but from those whom have used it what's some pros and cons. Maybe a build log or pics of what can be done. Thanks in advance. Jim


Love my TJ07, modded it many a time. Have an upcoming mod for it aswell. That being said, TJ07 does require a fair bit of work to get it looking real nice/fitting rads etc. Where as a caselabs or 900D not so much. If you love doing a mod then Id say go TJ07, if you want to just slap some rads in and call it a day go caselabs/900D route

Some of my buildlogs if you want to have a browse linky 1 linky 2


----------



## liverpool1985




----------



## liverpool1985




----------



## wermad

Wow, that is very good tbh and the colors seem to go well all in all. Very good job there sir









Btw, to avoid double posting, you can hit the edit button (button w/ the pencil symbol) to add more pics to your posts


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, that is very good tbh and the colors seem to go well all in all. Very good job there sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, to avoid double posting, you can hit the edit button (button w/ the pencil symbol) to add more pics to your posts


How Come He Can pull of Orange and I Cant!!!!


















TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How Come He Can pull of Orange and I Cant!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Your orange betrayed you, since you didn't join the Dark side (white CL?!?!?!?!?!





















).

edit: time to top off the res again


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Wait, can you use D5 mod kits with EK tops??


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Wait, can you use D5 mod kits with EK tops??


That would be yes. Although I might be wrong cause I thought you're referring to tops with D5. But I see now you meant stands etc.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

If the top *screws* on (like the stock top), yes, you can.

If the top has a locking or screwed on collar/ring, it won't work. I learned the hard way when i ordered a bp kit for my alphacool top.

Last i saw, ek uses the collar setup.


----------



## KShirza1

New chip on my loop! and extras...


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I thought the EK top was screw on? I've never taken apart my D5/EK top though.

I would love to put a mod kit on my D5. The stock look is so blegh. Granted you can't even see the pump because it's below the window, but still.


----------



## wermad

Works w/ the bp d5 top too:





ek top:





edit:

alphacool:


----------



## SteezyTN

Just ordered me an XSPC Photon 270 D5 PWM for my SMA8 build. Also got the Bitspower D5 mod kit for the pump. Ordered black to keep it classy







I currently have the 170, but I'm selling it to a friend. The 270 will look better in a huge case.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I've got a 560mm and a 360mm rad in my rig, why would I only run those on a CPU loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have it on a UPS, but since I live at home (18, woot), while I was gone on a trip, my mom unplugged it despite me specifically telling her that if she were to move anything or if my computer turned off (crashed), that it'd be awesome if she could text me what happened. Power outage, and bam- dead GPU, due to my mom moving my desk and ultimately my UPS.
> 
> -Zepp


Sorry to hear that. I hope you werent hard on your mom for that. How old is the card? Mabie you can get a repair/replacement for warranty or at least discounted. It never hurts to try. Otherwise i would wait to see how the fury overclocks, stock its a little underwhelming.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Wait, can you use D5 mod kits with EK tops??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If the top *screws* on (like the stock top), yes, you can.
> 
> If the top has a locking or screwed on collar/ring, it won't work. I learned the hard way when i ordered a bp kit for my alphacool top.
> 
> Last i saw, ek uses the collar setup.


Different cover kit.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

OK to ask water cooling questions here or should I start a thread? starting to acquire parts for my first loop.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> *OK to ask water cooling questions here* or should I start a thread? starting to acquire parts for my first loop.


Please, Continue. Feel free to make a Pass @B NEGATIVE Since you're new, He likes that, that Ole Stallion









TCO

@wermad The orange was just a no go from the start. Things happen for a reason I suppose.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Different cover kit.


Not as fancy as the bp kits. You can always paint or cover the pump w/ some vinyl.

Btw, the barrow clone kits were on liquidation at a new shop. ~$17 usd for a kit. thought about it but I'll keep my d5 top.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far I like the Alphacool D5 I snagged


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Ahhh. I see what you mean by collar now.

Yea I was gonna pick up one of the Barrow covers if that fit my D5. Guess not









Oh well, I'm looking forward to getting a glass res instead of my EK res. I'm hoping it'll look almost like an Aquacomputer res.


----------



## Ceadderman

Anyone have any knowledge of simple applied science should look under the covers of Fury X an tell me what you see that ain't jiving with electricity 101 fundamentals?

I think I'm onto something and would like to have some input on the "coil/pump" whine.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Fury x money => 980 Ti imho. Amd let me down







.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Fury x money => 980 Ti imho. Amd let me down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You did this Fury X Bandwaggon Werm? Figured you would have purchased another Monsta Rad instead.









TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You did this Fury X Bandwaggon Werm? Figured you would have purchased another Monsta Rad instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Nah, just disappointed, but I was kinda figuring they were gonna let a lot of fans down. I'm not too devoted to be swayed by either side, so I have no worries to recommending either one. Which ever is better at what one needs. Ti's are looking like my next gpu setup for what I need down the road (4k Surround







).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nah, just disappointed, but I was kinda figuring they were gonna let a lot of fans down. I'm not too devoted to be swayed by either side, so I have no worries to recommending either one. Which ever is better at what one needs*. Ti's are looking like my next gpu setup* for what I need down the road (4k Surround
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Don't tease me Werm, 2160p is the goal at 60FPS consistently with the GPU's sitting on Ice.

I understand.

TCO

My 980s at work I 1440p Ultra

This is Relevant due to the Temps in the Corner from MSI Afterburner.
Not To mention I kill about 30 or So guards


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, lemme simplify this...

Uninsulated copper pipe directly next to the inboard 8pin? So close that electrical current could theoretically jump to it.

Not so bad when it's dense copper block. Such as those manufactured specially made for watercooling.

But... add liquid to the copper tubing and you have a pathway directly to the GYM and HBM and the VRM.

Now I know that some will view this as too simplistic, as there *is/are* thermal pads in between the GPU plate and the Die and VRM. But keep in mind that source of electrify is what's likely causing the interference.

Had that 180° bit simply been routed to the opposite side there would be no interference generated through the cooler. It would never have happened. No pump whine, no coil whine.

I still want Fury X. But someone goofed and did so in a bad way imho. I am truly surprised this is such a minor hiccup in the launch of these cards.









~Ceadder


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> OK to ask water cooling questions here or should I start a thread? starting to acquire parts for my first loop.


Thread is easier, in this thread posts will always get pushed pages back and not everyone reads through it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Why are you getting a 5c difference it temps for the 980's? Could it be because of how you have the gpu's set up via tubing (both from the bottom)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not as fancy as the bp kits. You can always paint or cover the pump w/ some vinyl.
> 
> Btw, the barrow clone kits were on liquidation at a new shop. ~$17 usd for a kit. thought about it but I'll keep my d5 top.


Nah, the EK is much cleaner and integrated looking overall and has the security of a locked in pump. I've never liked screw on mount systems.
Plus it's not over priced like the bp kits.

Only down side is they don't fit the dual top as standard.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Why are you getting a 5c difference it temps for the 980's? Could it be because of how you have the gpu's set up via tubing (both from the bottom)


I need to reapply Tim to Top Card









I believe if I did I would drop temp on top card - 3 C

The Two cards should run about 2c of each other.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I need to reapply Tim to Top Card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe if I did I would drop temp on top card - 3 C
> 
> The Two cards should run about 2c of each other.
> 
> TCO


Thought were were in your build log lol. Sorry about that. That's why I didn't quote you. I have mine (my current setup) where it goes from top card to bottom card and I get about 1-2c difference. I was going to use that same setup for my GPU's, so I hope it was just an error in thermal paste based on those temps lol. I ordered my pump today. If one isn't enough, I'll be adding a second one


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Thought were were in your build log lol. Sorry about that. That's why I didn't quote you. I have mine (my current setup) where it goes from top card to bottom card and I get about 1-2c difference. I was going to use that same setup for my GPU's, so I hope it was just an error in thermal paste based on those temps lol. I ordered my pump today. If one isn't enough, I'll be adding a second one


I knew who you were talking to. I have no doubt it is the TIM.

TCO


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I need to reapply Tim to Top Card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe if I did I would drop temp on top card - 3 C
> 
> The Two cards should run about 2c of each other.
> 
> TCO


Honestly, your temps make me feel so much better about mine, heh. I sit right at 46-50c on my sli TX setup with x8 120mm rad space for the two cards.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Honestly, your temps make me feel so much better about mine, heh. I sit right at 46-50c on my sli TX setup with x8 120mm rad space for the two cards.


My two TX's run about the same. Hottest I've seen is 50c, which hey are in a parallel config (including CPU). I have 7x120, but in my new case I'll be running 9x120 and 4x140


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Honestly, your temps make me feel so much better about mine, heh. I sit right at 46-50c on my sli TX setup with x8 120mm rad space for the two cards.


I mean, after a couple hours of Gaming, with ambients in the house around 26.6C Those are the temps, If the top card was hitting 55 - 60 C I would have already broken down the loop and re applied the TIM because... Come on.... 60 C? With my Rig?



No...

But 48 - 50C I am fine with

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I mean, after a couple hours of Gaming, with ambients in the house around 26.6C Those are the temps, If the top card was hitting 55 - 60 C I would have already broken down the loop and re applied the TIM because... Come on.... 60 C? With my Rig?
> 
> 
> 
> No...
> 
> But 48 - 50C I am fine with
> 
> TCO


Honestly, with your rig, even 50c seems high. If the TIM is the problem for the increase in temps over the first, maybe reapplying the TiM would make both temps better.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Honestly, with your rig, even 50c seems high. If the TIM is the problem for the increase in temps over the first, *maybe reapplying the TiM would make both temps better.*










Isn't that what we have been saying the whole time?

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't that what we have been saying the whole time?
> 
> TCO


I know that, but I'm saying if you reapply the TIM to the card that's 5c hotter, it may drop temps for the other card as well. The hotter card is probably raising the temps on the other.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know that, but I'm saying if you reapply the TIM to the card that's 5c hotter, it may drop temps for the other card as well. The hotter card is probably raising the temps on the other.


Hmm! I understand now. This is possible. If and When I get a 3rd 980 ( after prices drop about another 200$ ) I will be able to answer that question with confidence and data.









TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hmm! I understand now. This is possible. If and When I get a 3rd 980 ( after prices drop about another 200$ ) I will be able to answer that question with confidence and data.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Come on now, don't make me feel like an idiot









And Oh, you dog. That would be a brilliant upgrade


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Come on now, *don't make me feel like an idiot*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Oh, you dog. That would be a brilliant upgrade


That was never my Intention. I just thought you were telling me that re applying the TIM would lower temps on the Top card and I was







Stunned for a second.

I think a 3rd 980 would be epic. Just... Trying to wrap up the part costs this month with my Commission check for the S3 build.

Then we look for upgrades









TCO


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know that, but I'm saying if you reapply the TIM to the card that's 5c hotter, it may drop temps for the other card as well. The hotter card is probably raising the temps on the other.


Technically the one card reads hotter because it puts less heat into the water. I'm pretty sure it would have the opposite effect of what you are saying here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Technically the one card reads hotter because it puts less heat into the water. I'm pretty sure it would have the opposite effect of what you are saying here.




TCO


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Oh no, am I wrong? I'm really good at being wrong.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Oh no, am I wrong? I'm really good at being wrong.


No that just absolutely blew my mind. I had no words except for that Gif.

TCO

EDIT: The fact that you quoted it and there are two Taxi Driver Gif's together doing the same thing are just boggling me. .. I might need to sleep.


----------



## kl6mk6

So i'm rethinking my watercooling airflow setup. Currently I have a 280 rad in the front as intake, a 280 rad on top as exhaust, and a 140 rad on the rear as exhaust.

I'm thinking about ditching the 140 rad in the rear and making it an unobstructed exhaust 140 fan, then making the other two rads (front and top) as intake to bring only cool air over the rads.

What do you all think? Leave it as is, or change it, and how?

*Also posted in Air 540 forum


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> So i'm rethinking my watercooling airflow setup. Currently I have a 280 rad in the front as intake, a 280 rad on top as exhaust, and a 140 rad on the rear as exhaust.
> 
> I'm thinking about ditching the 140 rad in the rear and making it an unobstructed exhaust 140 fan, then making the other two rads (front and top) as intake to bring only cool air over the rads.
> 
> What do you all think? Leave it as is, or change it, and how?
> 
> *Also posted in Air 540 forum


Should work out good imo.
All radiators bringing in fresh air, keeping positive pressure, and having a dedicated fan as an exhaust.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Technically the one card reads hotter because it puts less heat into the water. I'm pretty sure it would have the opposite effect of what you are saying here.


Yep, temperature is different to wattage. Just because the card itself is hotter doesn't necessarily mean it puts out more energy to heat the coolant.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I've got a 560mm and a 360mm rad in my rig, why would I only run those on a CPU loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have it on a UPS, but since I live at home (18, woot), while I was gone on a trip, my mom unplugged it despite me specifically telling her that if she were to move anything or if my computer turned off (crashed), that it'd be awesome if she could text me what happened. Power outage, and bam- dead GPU, due to my mom moving my desk and ultimately my UPS.
> 
> So should I wait a little to see what happens with the Fury and splurge, or should I hunt down another 290X?
> 
> -Zepp
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just saying, if you're gonna buy a waterblock, you should pick up a card that doesn't have one like the 980 Ti. Otherwise you're just paying money for watercooling that you aren't using.
Click to expand...

The same could be said about the air cooler you're no longer using when you remove the stock air cooler on the 980 Ti


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just buy the card you want,saying you should nt buy a card because it has a specific cooling solution is crazy talk.

I'm looking forward to getting a Fury myself,mainly has Elite Dangerous looks much better on AMD cards.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I think I must be tired, I've seen people recommending using Listerine in a loop


Oh but it smells sooo minty!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think a 3rd 980 would be epic.
> 
> TCO


Do it homey.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Oh but it smells sooo minty!
> 
> 
> Do it homey.


Are my eyes playing tricks on me?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh but it smells sooo minty!
> 
> 
> Do it homey.


What Block is that ???


----------



## iluvkfc

Hello, I am new to watercooling and getting ready to order parts. I have selected an EK Supremacy MX block, but I'm not sure if it will be compatible with 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD compression fittings. Specifically these ones.

Someone else on OCN linked me to this video, showing this type of fittings do work with the Supreme HF, but I wonder if the holes are the same distance apart and the fittings have the same diameter.

Also, I am considering an EK-CoolStream PE 360 as a radiator, with some GT fans. Is that rad good or is there anything better in that price range?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> What Block is that ???


It's definitely EK. Probably an EVO.


----------



## fisher6

I need some help with using the multiport reservoir top as outlet, I searched around but didn't find a definitive answer. My loop is like this: pump -> tube res -> 360 rad (front) -> 240 rad (top) -> CPU -> GPU -> pump. I want to use the top of my tube reservoir as outlet. I have a 250mm EK res with the multiport top and a 14mm inner tube I bought from the EK store. I basically want the res top to push water into the front 360 rad. Also, would I still be able to use one of the other top ports on the reservoir top as a fill port?

If this approach is not recommended I will just flip the flow and use the top of the res as intake. Opinions?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I need some help with using the multiport reservoir top as outlet, I searched around but didn't find a definitive answer. My loop is like this: pump -> tube res -> 360 rad (front) -> 240 rad (top) -> CPU -> GPU -> pump. I want to use the top of my tube reservoir as outlet. I have a 250mm EK res with the multiport top and a 14mm inner tube I bought from the EK store. I basically want the res top to push water into the front 360 rad. Also, would I still be able to use one of the other top ports on the reservoir top as a fill port?
> 
> If this approach is not recommended I will just flip the flow and use the top of the res as intake. Opinions?


Typically your res should feed your pump. Unless you are adding a t-line, you run the risk of running the pump dry when filling the loop for the first time. If you do revirse the flow and go the other way, make sure youre cpu block is still flowing in to out.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Oh but it smells sooo minty!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do it homey.


Don't mislead us, you're using really using  to keep your loop well hydrated aren't you!


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Oh but it smells sooo minty!
> 
> Do it homey.


LOL.

I really like the look of the Monsoon fittings in your loop


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Anyone ever try a few drops of bleech in a loop to kill the critters that try to grow in the loop? Should not take much. Only need few cap fulls in a horse trough full off water and ice to keep it sterile. Only know that from working outdoor events as a kid. We stored canned pop in the troughs. That is about 50 gallons of water and ice. So a few drops in a loop should work, i would think.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Anyone ever try a few drops of bleech in a loop to kill the critters that try to grow in the loop? Should not take much. Only need few cap fulls in a horse trough full off water and ice to keep it sterile. Only know that from working outdoor events as a kid. We stored canned pop in the troughs. That is about 50 gallons of water and ice. So a few drops in a loop should work, i would think.


I would use automotive coolant at 10% instead. The glycol combats corrosion with added benifit of being so toxic no life forms.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would also make sure it's RV Coolant not just standard coolant or DexCool


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would also make sure it's RV Coolant not just standard coolant or DexCool


whats wrong with regular automotive coolant?

I been runing 10% green uv auto coolant in my sons rig for 6 months now.


----------



## liverpool1985




----------



## electro2u

Quote:
Originally Posted by *KShirza1* 

New chip on my loop! and extras...



Looks awesome.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Anyone ever try a few drops of bleech in a loop to kill the critters that try to grow in the loop? Should not take much. Only need few cap fulls in a horse trough full off water and ice to keep it sterile. Only know that from working outdoor events as a kid. We stored canned pop in the troughs. That is about 50 gallons of water and ice. So a few drops in a loop should work, i would think.


Bleach can scour copper. I wouldnt go that route myself but i recognize youre talking about very low concentrations.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Anyone ever try a few drops of bleech in a loop to kill the critters that try to grow in the loop? Should not take much. Only need few cap fulls in a horse trough full off water and ice to keep it sterile. Only know that from working outdoor events as a kid. We stored canned pop in the troughs. That is about 50 gallons of water and ice. So a few drops in a loop should work, i would think.


What's wrong with PT Nuke-cu? 3-4 drops and it won't wreck your everything.

ETA: Also any coolant with glycol (not counting propylene glycol) will deteriorate PETG tubing.)


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> What's wrong with PT Nuke-cu? 3-4 drops and it won't wreck your everything.
> 
> ETA: Also any coolant with glycol (not counting propylene glycol) will deteriorate PETG tubing.)


he asked about adding bleach to his loop. Do you not agree that auto coolant would be a better "home" solution than bleach?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Just a curiosity on the bleach. My X1 just came in. Only have distilled water in the loop now. Plan to flush and swap to X1 tonight.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Are my eyes playing tricks on me?


Lol, it was just mayhems X1 UV blue about 1:1 with distilled water that I used temporarily to test my loop. To my surprise it changed the color to that of Listerine mouth wash. Lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> What Block is that ???


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> It's definitely EK. Probably an EVO.


Yup, its an EK supremacy non evo modded a bit.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Don't mislead us, you're using really using
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to keep your loop well hydrated aren't you!


I tried but modding pc's is hard work so i had to drink it before i got to use it in mah loop.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> LOL.
> 
> I really like the look of the Monsoon fittings in your loop


Thank you


----------



## OxygeenHD

Hi guys, i'm here to ask you a few things about the watercooling possibilities of my modified Carbide 200R.

In my sig you can see my worklog, in which i've wrote everything i've done.

(Link for mobile users : http://www.overclock.net/t/1555599/worklog-wip-carbide-200r-aka-phoenix).

In brief :

i've done the famous 360 rad front mounting mod.
I've made a plate to fill the hole next to the mobo tray where your sata cables go through to power HDD previously located in the cage.
I've double sided taped my HDD on the back of the case.

Config which be watercooled :

i7 5930K
GTX 980Ti

Or something around those lines.

Watercooling gear which gonna be used : Alphacool rads and pump.. EK Block and Res.

Actual state of the case :



Blue arrows represent the airflow.

Available rad space at the front : ~ 11 - 12cm.

As you can see there is some mess with the cables... and i swear, i tried to do something clean...

So i thought about doing a stealth cover like this :


Now, i want to use all the available space for rads if it's possible.

I know that the front of this case isn't so high to allow rads to fit, i've searched on the net and few said that it's possible, some don't... So i took the technical drawing of the Alphacool Nexxos ST30 and made a cardboard template. Here is the result.




As you can see it fits, fanless but it's because the 6 Pin for the CPU is unplugged.

With the cable plugged :


As you can see the holes are not aligned anymore.

so i thought about getting a right angled CPU connector (if it's exist... ? :/) to do something like this which gonna take less space and might allow the rad to be aligned with the holes...


If it can be done, i will be able to put a rad fanless here. Will it make a noticeable impact on the temps if he's in loop with a 360 with fans ? (Like a monsta or a UT60.)

If not i'll let the top for fans and put a single rad at the back.

Will all this setup will be enough to have confortable temps with OC ?

Thanks everybody !


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Oh but it smells sooo minty!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you grinded the Dominator Platinum with sandpaper, then polished them? Looks good, something I could do to.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I think I must be tired, I've seen people recommending using Listerine in a loop
> 
> 
> 
> Oh but it smells sooo minty!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

This is proving to be quite popular on our Facebook


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> Have you grinded the Dominator Platinum with sandpaper, then polished them? Looks good, something I could do to.


The set that I have were anodized that I had to get removed. Then they were polished a bit and nickel plated. From what I've read is that there have been several revisions and some might be able to be polished. Removing anodizing is a chemical process and a little hard to do at home.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> This is proving to be quite popular on our Facebook


Lol@derickwm

Definitely put a disclaimer on that lol!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> This is proving to be quite popular on our Facebook


Listerine....


----------



## ColdFusion 13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Listerine....


So thanks for that.....


----------



## wermad

You're probably too young to know the connection


----------



## ColdFusion 13

nope. i remember the commercials. i was born in 81









just never saw the video for the song.... and now all i want to do is build a time machine to go back 10 minutes to avoid ever seeing it









edit: in fact my avatar is what id like to do for real today







lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol. I remember that song. Never saw the Video even though MTV was my channel of choice.

Thanks for that Wermad. Although I could've done just fine without seeing that.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Lol@wermad

Completely forgot about those commercials.

So many things lost pre internet age. That is of course unless a die hard listerine fan recorded those commercials on vhs. Lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## wermad

So jelli of those fans


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Listerine....


And this is why we'll never be visited by aliens. If they ever do come here they'll just wipe us out and carry on.


----------



## Ceadderman

And that song will be their national anthem.









~Ceadder


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think he has more than what the website indicates.


Do you know the contact email? It's not listed on the website. The other day I saw they had flow indicators super cheap and picked on out, went to order it today and says its out of stock now









Was going to try to contact them and see if its possible that they have some left.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So jelli of those fans


Here, Have another, Go Ahead, Do it











TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Here, Have another, Go Ahead, Do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO




edit: curious what you gonna use to tie them down? I'm going to switch to 12mm (and some 1/2") length screws for my fans. I find 30mm puts a bit too much strain on the fan housing since they're open just like eloops.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> edit: curious what you gonna use to tie them down? I'm going to switch to 12mm (and some 1/2") length screws for my fans. I find 30mm puts a bit too much strain on the fan housing since they're open just like eloops.


Lets see! I used the screws that Came with the NB Eloops to attach them to the Rad for pictures, but they seem.... Long???



I think it has a sound Isolating thing that I am supposed to put the screw through. Although I could use the Screws that come with the 240mm XSPC Rad also.

TCO


----------



## deadwidesmile

Are those NoiseBlockers?


----------



## VSG

Use the screws that came with the rad itself. You can use the fan accessories but they are redundant on rads.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Are those NoiseBlockers?


They Are









@geggeg It's deal then









TCO


----------



## wermad

I'm just waiting for my order to ship (seller on vacation). The fans bend a bit too much for my comfort and 12mm works perfect. I ran out of the ph 12mm screws I had and the stock alphacool ones have a tiny head. Its probably because of the ring that they flex a bit, but I haven't broken anything. I'll post pics once I've done it. One of the used rads I bought the first owner tapped it (poorly) to 6-32 so I'm picking up some 1/2" screws for this guy. I've already tested both 12mm and 1/2" and there's plenty of room to clear the screw-blocking plate.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> Have you grinded the Dominator Platinum with sandpaper, then polished them? Looks good, something I could do to.


Made it look nice too.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Any advice on cleaning my rads? They're getting pretty darn dusty and I am seeing a few c increase in load temps. Is a can of air still the best way to dust out the rads?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Any advice on cleaning my rads? They're getting pretty darn dusty and I am seeing a few c increase in load temps. Is a can of air still the best way to dust out the rads?


Canned air works good, Metro datavac if you want serious power though







, check it out if you haven't heard of it.


----------



## wermad

for the exterior, I've heard some guys dunk em in soapy water and then just run a vac (reverse) or air compressor over it to dry them. If your rad has steel, leave in the sun after hitting it w/ air.

Hey, ppl dunk motherboards in soapy water, why not a rad


----------



## Domler

Order Status Changed
Hi Alexander
An order you recently placed on our website has had its status changed.
The status of order #13335 is now Shipped
Order Details
Order Total: $513.75 USD
Date Placed: 9th May 2015
Payment Method: Credit Card


----------



## Domler

VICTORY!!!!!!!


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Any advice on cleaning my rads? They're getting pretty darn dusty and I am seeing a few c increase in load temps. Is a can of air still the best way to dust out the rads?


I've been using this for about 8 years now and it does a great job.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Order Status Changed
> Hi Alexander
> An order you recently placed on our website has had its status changed.
> The status of order #13335 is now Shipped
> Order Details
> Order Total: $513.75 USD
> Date Placed: 9th May 2015
> Payment Method: Credit Card


My Order Number is in the 13700 Range,









That would be epic If they could skip a few









TCO


----------



## electro2u

As if i werent up to my ears in cc debt already... but ill be using that code too. Decisions decisions.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

I Love my Phobya E-Loops they look fantastic and perform pretty well too. I have a set of 3 800RPM NB-1 fans decorating my room, they were replaced with NB-3s after a buddy upgraded to 2 GTX 780TIs and needed better cooling.

If my Red E-Loops didn't suite my build so well I'd replace then with AP15 or Vardars.


----------



## Domler

Hey TCO. When did you place your order? Just curious how long 500 orders take to place. In glad there busy. Just wonder how busy.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> My Order Number is in the 13700 Range,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be epic If they could skip a few
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Mines in the 14100 range


----------



## sdmf74

I have a question about installing the bitspower modkit on a D5 "PWM" pump that has sleeved cables. How did you do it, it seems I have 2 options either drill one of the holes bigger in the circular plate on the mod kit or try to put each set of wires though 2 different holes in the circular plate in the mod kit?

The sleeving they used is really thick and I dont think both sets of wires (pwm and power) will fit through one hole. Thanx!

Im sure someone here uses this bitspower kit and a pwm D5 pump. I just messed up the sleeving trying to go through the same hole with both sets of wires. Will the pump screw on correctly if I use 2 different holes in the backplate?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im sure someone here uses this bitspower kit and a pwm D5 pump. I just messed up the sleeving trying to go through the same hole with both sets of wires. Will the pump screw on correctly if I use 2 different holes in the backplate?


I had to make the hole larger to fit sleeved cables on my PWM pump. Doubt youd be able to screw it on if using a 2nd hole, it sits pretty flush


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I had to make the hole larger to fit sleeved cables on my PWM pump. Doubt youd be able to screw it on if using a 2nd hole, it sits pretty flush


Thanks for the reply, I just came to the same conclusion on 2 holes, was just getting ready to drill before I refreshed the page. Im thinkin about starting off with a 11/32" drill bit. Wht size hole did you drill? Thanks! rep+

EDIT: ok thanks again I measured it with my calipers and 23/64" seemed to be the best fit, it looks great


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> for the exterior, I've heard some guys dunk em in soapy water and then just run a vac (reverse) or air compressor over it to dry them. If your rad has steel, leave in the sun after hitting it w/ air.
> 
> Hey, ppl dunk motherboards in soapy water, why not a rad


My rads are a part of a modded aio cooler. The main one that needs cleaned is the gpu rad. I really can't disconnect everything... I'll pick up a can of air... Too bad it's so expensive... For air.


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah you cant go wrong with these DATVAC ELECTRIC DUSTERS, I use mine for everything. If it died tomorrow I would definately go buy another one. Comes in really handy for cleaning my filters on the front of my caselabs case (filters on the inside).
They are powerful, unlike a can of air that loses force after 2 seconds.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Mines in the 14100 range


When did you place your order if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> When did you place your order if you don't mind me asking?


I ordered on June 24th. Order number is 14036


----------



## Prophet4NO1

After two weeks at work, flew home today. Once the wife and kid where in bed, I got cracking on cleaning the blue out of my loop and put some clean distilled water and Mayhems X1 in. Added some Mayhems deep read too.



I got sick of smacking tubes to get the bubbles all out. But, the rad and block are clear. Just a the ones sticking to the tubes.


----------



## OxygeenHD

Up guys, please could you help me.. ?









http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/87480#post_24119605


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Hey TCO. When did you place your order? Just curious how long 500 orders take to place. In glad there busy. Just wonder how busy.


ON the 5th or 6th Of June.

TCO


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I need some help with using the multiport reservoir top as outlet, I searched around but didn't find a definitive answer. My loop is like this: pump -> tube res -> 360 rad (front) -> 240 rad (top) -> CPU -> GPU -> pump. I want to use the top of my tube reservoir as outlet. I have a 250mm EK res with the multiport top and a 14mm inner tube I bought from the EK store. I basically want the res top to push water into the front 360 rad. Also, would I still be able to use one of the other top ports on the reservoir top as a fill port?
> 
> If this approach is not recommended I will just flip the flow and use the top of the res as intake. Opinions?


You will find it extremely difficult to run the loop like that. While filling and bleeding the res will want to overflow and the pump will want to run itself dry.
Reversing the order will be far more practical.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You will find it extremely difficult to run the loop like that. While filling and bleeding the res will want to overflow and the pump will want to run itself dry.
> Reversing the order will be far more practical.


That's what I ended up doing. Hope that running the coolant through GPU then CPU will have neglible effect on temps.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OxygeenHD*
> 
> Up guys, please could you help me.. ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/87480#post_24119605


You really need to make your own thread. Pretty extensive topic, and your questions/answer will get lost here.


----------



## Faster_is_better

He already has a thread with some suggestions, http://www.overclock.net/t/1561863/do-stealth-covers-affect-cooling-performance-if-watercooled/

Anyone else with ideas can chime in there


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Hey guys, it has been a while since I had a custom loop.

I'm considering to either go back to water cooling, or get a Noctua NH-C14 and call it a day.

I have a budget of around $350 - $450 CAD.

First of all, will a slim 240mm rad with 1200rpm fans be enough for 250W TDP GPU (GTX Pascal maybe), and an oced intel quad core (Skylake)? My plan is to have the water loop up and running then gradually replace the components.

Also, would the Noctua C14 be a better option since it's considerably cheaper and I can use the money left over to by a 144hz monitor or maybe a decent cheap mountain bike?

It's so hard to decide









Edit: The case is Corsair 240. Can't use full cover. Already have MCW82. Can't use standard height heatsink.


----------



## SteezyTN

I received the rest of my radiators for my SMA8 build, and the 560 GTS had the sticker cut. Kind of irritating. Ordered it from PPCS


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that it was inspected before packing. Was everything in the box?









~Ceadder


----------



## NickTZ

So I just added my 290x to my previously 4790k-only loop, and accidentally got some soap in the Mayhems Pastel (I was using the soap to help slip compression fittings on, I guess a bit somehow seeped between the barb and the tubing? I used soap when I first assembled the loop and everything was fine). What are my options? Do I have to just bite the bullet and drain it, rinse the loop, and buy new Mayhems Pastel? I can see tiny soapy bubbles everywhere in my loop, although temps are still fine.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Hey guys, it has been a while since I had a custom loop.
> 
> I'm considering to either go back to water cooling, or get a Noctua NH-C14 and call it a day.
> 
> I have a budget of around $350 - $450 CAD.
> 
> First of all, will a slim 240mm rad with 1200rpm fans be enough for 250W TDP GPU (GTX Pascal maybe), and an oced intel quad core (Skylake)? My plan is to have the water loop up and running then gradually replace the components.
> 
> Also, would the Noctua C14 be a better option since it's considerably cheaper and I can use the money left over to by a 144hz monitor or maybe a decent cheap mountain bike?
> 
> It's so hard to decide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: The case is Corsair 240. Can't use full cover. Already have MCW82. Can't use standard height heatsink.


Depends on what temperatures would be acceptable for you. I'm guessing your temps would be around like 60-65*C


----------



## NickTZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Hey guys, it has been a while since I had a custom loop.
> 
> I'm considering to either go back to water cooling, or get a Noctua NH-C14 and call it a day.
> 
> I have a budget of around $350 - $450 CAD.
> 
> First of all, will a slim 240mm rad with 1200rpm fans be enough for 250W TDP GPU (GTX Pascal maybe), and an oced intel quad core (Skylake)? My plan is to have the water loop up and running then gradually replace the components.
> 
> Also, would the Noctua C14 be a better option since it's considerably cheaper and I can use the money left over to by a 144hz monitor or maybe a decent cheap mountain bike?
> 
> It's so hard to decide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: The case is Corsair 240. Can't use full cover. Already have MCW82. Can't use standard height heatsink.


The Air 240 can fit 480mm of rad with an itx mobo, and 360mm with an matx mobo, no reason to just use 240mm. And 360mm would be plenty; I have that much in my air 240 with a 4790k @ 4.8ghz 1.4v and stock 290x with 800 rpm fans, 4790k jumps between 40 and 60c, 290x stays around 50c.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think that it was inspected before packing. Was everything in the box?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I emailed them, so we'll see how it goes. Never heard of inspecting something like this. The box seemed like it had been handled a lot, or it was used.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I emailed them, so we'll see how it goes. Never heard of inspecting something like this. The box seemed like it had been handled a lot, or it was used.


I've picked up almost 2 dozens radiators from their store total and have never got a fully sealed box








With my last alphacool rads order I didn't even get the stickers/screws on all of them.
I don't think they would be stupid and dare send you a used product, GL


----------



## Ceadderman

I'd bet that it's Customs inspected or inspected after delivery from the Manufacturer.

I rarely get anything with the seals intact. I expect them to be but so long as the items don't look odd or are not missing the included parts, I don't sweat the small stuff.

My advice is to go over it thoroughly and look for damage of any sort. No damage, then you should be okay. Flush it like any Radiator being on the lookout for leaks. No leaks should be no problems.









~Ceadder


----------



## gamerking

quick question for you all

im going to be picking up a second 970 soon would i have to buy thicker rads or(new ones) when i sli the 970's ?
atm i have a triple 120mm 35.5mm thick and a dual 120mm 38mm thick . i think im fine but just wanted to get another opinion of it . i have vardar fans 2200rpm on both rads in push config . the case i have is not going to fit another rad sadly , its a 750d i know you can fit 3 rads in it normal but my psu is too long to do that .


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> quick question for you all
> 
> im going to be picking up a second 970 soon would i have to buy thicker rads or(new ones) when i sli the 970's ?
> atm i have a triple 120mm 35.5mm thick and a dual 120mm 38mm thick . i think im fine but just wanted to get another opinion of it . i have vardar fans 2200rpm on both rads in push config . the case i have is not going to fit another rad sadly , its a 750d i know you can fit 3 rads in it normal but my psu is too long to do that .


Unless you can actually get more rad space, no reason to just get thicker rads. The performance increase is quite small. And at 2200 rpm, you have plenty of cooling.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> quick question for you all
> 
> im going to be picking up a second 970 soon would i have to buy thicker rads or(new ones) when i sli the 970's ?
> atm i have a triple 120mm 35.5mm thick and a dual 120mm 38mm thick . i think im fine but just wanted to get another opinion of it . i have vardar fans 2200rpm on both rads in push config . the case i have is not going to fit another rad sadly , its a 750d i know you can fit 3 rads in it normal but my psu is too long to do that .


You have enough rad space.

With overclocks (bios mod on gpus, 1.3v cpu) I figure around 200+200+150=550 watts total. That's a rough guess. your system will be creating less heat than that as the cpu and gpu will both rarely be at 100% load simultaneously.

You have 5 x 120mm total so 550/5 = 110 watts per 120mm rad space.

People say you need 120mm per block plus an extra 120mm for oc. You meet that criteria too. I prefer to suggest it as 120mm rad space per every 150 watts. Less per 120mm means lower fanspeed.

If you're not overclocking the math will favor you even more at 400/5=80 watts per 120mm rad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Hey guys, it has been a while since I had a custom loop.
> 
> I'm considering to either go back to water cooling, or get a Noctua NH-C14 and call it a day.
> 
> I have a budget of around $350 - $450 CAD.
> 
> First of all, will a slim 240mm rad with 1200rpm fans be enough for 250W TDP GPU (GTX Pascal maybe), and an oced intel quad core (Skylake)? My plan is to have the water loop up and running then gradually replace the components.
> 
> Also, would the Noctua C14 be a better option since it's considerably cheaper and I can use the money left over to by a 144hz monitor or maybe a decent cheap mountain bike?
> 
> It's so hard to decide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: The case is Corsair 240. Can't use full cover. Already have MCW82. Can't use standard height heatsink.


Yes.

You will get good air cooling type temps rather than the expected WC temps.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Would there be an issue using the bottom port of my GPU block as the intake rather than the top port? I've got the tubing running from my top radiator down to my GPU, but it's very kinked and I think it's restricting flow. It's not possible for me to un-kink it with the stuff I have on hand (will be ordering some dual or triple rotaries in the middle of the month) but I could arc the tubing from the bottom of the GPU block up to the radiator.

As I understand GPU blocks don't have set intake/outake ports so this shouldn't be an issue right?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Would there be an issue using the bottom port of my GPU block as the intake rather than the top port? I've got the tubing running from my top radiator down to my GPU, but it's very kinked and I think it's restricting flow. It's not possible for me to un-kink it with the stuff I have on hand (will be ordering some dual or triple rotaries in the middle of the month) but I could arc the tubing from the bottom of the GPU block up to the radiator.
> 
> As I understand GPU blocks don't have set intake/outake ports so this shouldn't be an issue right?


correct. no issue whatsoever.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Would there be an issue using the bottom port of my GPU block as the intake rather than the top port? I've got the tubing running from my top radiator down to my GPU, but it's very kinked and I think it's restricting flow. It's not possible for me to un-kink it with the stuff I have on hand (will be ordering some dual or triple rotaries in the middle of the month) but I could arc the tubing from the bottom of the GPU block up to the radiator.
> 
> As I understand GPU blocks don't have set intake/outake ports so this shouldn't be an issue right?


Correct for single card setup. Just make sure there offset. Top left, bottom right. Or top right bottom left.
Or both top, or both bottom.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> correct. no issue whatsoever.


Great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Correct for single card setup. Just make sure there offset. Top left, bottom right. Or top right bottom left.


Wait is this a requirement? I've been using the top two ports on my GPU block.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Great.
> Wait is this a requirement? I've been using the top two ports on my GPU block.


That's fine.

Offset means that you are using both the left and right, not both left or both right.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> That's fine.
> 
> Offset means that you are using both the left and right, not both left or both right.


Right I see.

One more question hopefully someone can answer for me. I have a drain valve already on my system set on my pump, but it takes a lot of shaking and tilting of the system to get the water out of the top radiator/gpu block in my loop. Could I just open the bottom port of my GPU and use that as an additional drain to remove that stubborn water? I'm going to put a t-fitting there after I drain out the system so I can make it easier in the future, but I remember trying this before with a loop from a few years ago and the water just sort of went everywhere including backwards into the GPU.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

how is the EK DCP 4.0? would it be enough for my loop . have a 360mm and 120mm rads and just a cpu block, will be adding a gpu block in the future.

budget is getting a little tight right now still need fans and fittings.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Right I see.
> 
> One more question hopefully someone can answer for me. I have a drain valve already on my system set on my pump, but it takes a lot of shaking and tilting of the system to get the water out of the top radiator/gpu block in my loop. Could I just open the bottom port of my GPU and use that as an additional drain to remove that stubborn water?


You need to open a vent port so the drain works best. Usually we do that by opening a port on top of the reservoir or if you have a top rad with extra ports facing up that would be the best. If you open the extra port on the gpu and there is still a lot of water upward from it you will get a flood from there.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You need to open a vent port so the drain works best. Usually we do that by opening a port on top of the reservoir or if you have a top rad with extra ports facing up that would be the best. If you open the extra port on the gpu and there is still a lot of water upward from it you will get a flood from there.


Oh really? That sounds easy enough then. I've got plenty of ports on the res that can be opened. Guess I'll give it a shot now then.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> how is the EK DCP 4.0? would it be enough for my loop . have a 360mm and 120mm rads and just a cpu block, will be adding a gpu block in the future.
> 
> budget is getting a little tight right now still need fans and fittings.


This would cost the same or less and be a lot stronger pump.
ddc 3.1 $55
http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-laing-ddc310-single-edition-silver.html
ek xres top $45
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-100-ddc-acetal.html

The dcp has 4ft of head pressure. The pump I linked has 10ft.

There is really no reason to use a dcp 2.2 or 4.0 pump unless you already own one imo.

The dcp pump combos are $90-100 costing as much as a much stronger pump.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> This would cost the same or less and be a lot stronger pump.
> ddc 3.1 $50
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-laing-ddc310-single-edition-silver.html
> ek xres top $45
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-100-ddc-acetal.html
> 
> The dcp has 4ft of head pressure. The pump I linked has 10ft.


Thanks and thats why I posted here. going to look into that pump now.

Thanks!

I have this res all ready would like to use it. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16935/ex-res-418/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM150AC-CL.html?tl=g30c97s165


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Thanks and thats why I posted here. going to look into that pump now.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I have this res all ready would like to use it. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16935/ex-res-418/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM150AC-CL.html?tl=g30c97s165


Use it, It's gorgeous.



TCO

These are the 250mm Inline Res.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Thanks and thats why I posted here. going to look into that pump now.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I have this res all ready would like to use it. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16935/ex-res-418/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM150AC-CL.html?tl=g30c97s165


if you do not need the res then this pump has a the top you need to connect fittings @ $65 http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-laing-ddc310-complete-edition-plata-plexi.html

If you want the Different pump top then get the 1st pump I linked in the other post and pair it with http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-ddc-acetal-original-csq.html or http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-x-top-rev-2-plexi.html

You can get a bare 10w DDC pump with oem top for $55 but you cannot connect fittings to it. you have to slide 3/8 tubing onto the barbes. kinda getto but still a good strong pump.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/pumps/swiftech-mcp350-12-vdc-pump.html


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> if you do not need the res then this pump has a the top you need to connect fittings @ $65 http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-laing-ddc310-complete-edition-plata-plexi.html
> 
> If you want the Different pump top then get the 1st pump I linked in the other post and pair it with http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-ddc-acetal-original-csq.html or http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-x-top-rev-2-plexi.html
> 
> You can get a bare 10w DDC pump with oem top for $55 but you cannot connect fittings to it. you have to slide 3/8 tubing onto the barbes. kinda getto but still a good strong pump.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/pumps/swiftech-mcp350-12-vdc-pump.html


that first pump top is nice , would match my ek evo block perfectly .

Thanks for your help


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I've only been watercooling for about 6 months but im pretty proud of my build. Is really like to get some opinions on what other people would recommend, especially for people who have been doing this for awhile. I know that the cables need sleeping, but besides that, what would you do? In curious

After all I couldn't have done it without the things I learned on this forum. 



4790k, sli 980 classifieds (for which I feel pretty dumb for buying), 480, 420, 2x 280 rads. Mcp655 pump, 900d case. There also an aquacomputer filter, bitspower 250, and corsair sp 120/140


----------



## xebaxtian

Hi


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> how is the EK DCP 4.0? would it be enough for my loop . have a 360mm and 120mm rads and just a cpu block, will be adding a gpu block in the future.
> 
> budget is getting a little tight right now still need fans and fittings.


I think the setup is fine for that pump. Maybe even with the addition of a single block. I could be wrong on that though. Many small form factor builds use that pump for a single CPU and gpu. Rads are nearly zero resistance flow. If you have a bunch you may need to upgrade tp D5 but I think in your case it'll be fine


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xebaxtian*
> 
> Hi


Looks awesome bro. I like that you were able to get a large cap res to fit in the case. All i would say is make sure you got decent airflow underneath and rads get terrible airflow especially those with high fpi so it's important to keep that space as open as possible.


----------



## fisher6

Girlfriend is out of the country means leak testing on a Saturday night is possible


----------



## MapRef41N93W

After switching my GPU intake to the bottom port, my temps have skyrocketed up to the 60s...what on earth happened.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> After switching my GPU intake to the bottom port, my temps have skyrocketed up to the 60s...what on earth happened.


Was that the only change?

What did you do? Simply move the connector from the top to the bottom?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Was that the only change?
> 
> What did you do? Simply move the connector from the top to the bottom?


Removed the fitting on the top left of the GPU block, moved it to the bottom left and ran tubing to it. Then attached a t-fitting to other bottom port for easy removal of left over water in case I need to take it down again. Filled and bleed loop, then tested and was seeing my temps immediately jump to 61-62c.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Removed the fitting on the top left of the GPU block, moved it to the bottom left and ran tubing to it. Then attached a t-fitting to other bottom port for easy removal of left over water in case I need to take it down again. Filled and bleed loop, then tested and was seeing my temps immediately jump to 61-62c.


I wonder if the T fitting is killing flow in the block. I would remove it.

I really don't see a purpose in putting a T-fitting in the GPU block anyways. Waterblocks hold so little water relative to the loop. There are many other places that would be a far better drain point.


----------



## DreamTheatrics

Hey guys I've been working on this build for a couple years now just recently created an account though. Here she is. Specs in my signature.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I wonder if the T fitting is killing flow in the block. I would remove it.
> 
> I really don't see a purpose in putting a T-fitting in the GPU block anyways. Waterblocks hold so little water relative to the loop. There are many other places that would be a far better drain point.


Removed the T-fitting and it made no difference in temps.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Removed the T-fitting and it made no difference in temps.


Only other thing I can think of is an air bubble trapped in your GPU block. I don't see why else the temperature would increase suddenly. There's poor thermal transfer to the water. Did your CPU temp change at all?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Removed the T-fitting and it made no difference in temps.


My guess would be bubbles in the block. Tilt it all ways (even upside down if you can manage it) as a test with the pump running full speed. Let it sit a few minutes at each tilt angle to be sure? Plus that way if the tilting causes a leak, you know you've got bigger problems than temps.

Just be sure everything is DC'ed of course.


----------



## DreamTheatrics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> My guess would be bubbles in the block. Tilt it all ways (even upside down if you can manage it) as a test with the pump running full speed. Let it sit a few minutes at each tilt angle to be sure? Plus that way if the tilting causes a leak, you know you've got bigger problems than temps.
> 
> Just be sure everything is DC'ed of course.


This. You always want to throw the PC around a little bit (gently) after filling up the loop. There is always going to be air bubbles, some bigger than others.

Also, make sure you open the top cap on your reservoir after shaking to let the air out. You will see the water level drop when you do that. Remember to put the cap back on to hold that pressure when you turn the PC off. I use this and it works extremely well. You just press a spring loaded button down and it releases the pressure.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21877/ex-tub-2269/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Pressure_Equalizer_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_-_Carbon_Black_BP-CBETAIR.html?tl=c101s1382b145


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Only other thing I can think of is an air bubble trapped in your GPU block. I don't see why else the temperature would increase suddenly. There's poor thermal transfer to the water. Did your CPU temp change at all?


Nope. Just ran 5 minutes of OCCT and my max temp was still 71c on first core and low-mid 60s on everything else. That's almost identical to what it was before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> My guess would be bubbles in the block. Tilt it all ways (even upside down if you can manage it) as a test with the pump running full speed. Let it sit a few minutes at each tilt angle to be sure? Plus that way if the tilting causes a leak, you know you've got bigger problems than temps.
> 
> Just be sure everything is DC'ed of course.


The case is really heavy but I will try to tilt and shake it around. Shouldn't be any leaks. I've tilted this thing all around and there was no leaking before and the only fitting/tubing changed was on the GPU block.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Nope. Just ran 5 minutes of OCCT and my max temp was still 71c on first core and low-mid 60s on everything else. That's almost identical to what it was before.
> The case is really heavy but I will try to tilt and shake it around. Shouldn't be any leaks. I've tilted this thing all around and there was no leaking before and the only fitting/tubing changed was on the GPU block.


can you take a pic of the loop right now and post it here?


----------



## Domler

I'm betting on an air bubble. Up and down probly allowed the air to pass easier. Now that it is like a u shaped flow, gonna have to eat your wheaties and good tilt. I had to pick my up over my head before. I felt like Atlas.


----------



## Domler

If your gonna tilt it alot, make sure water is still going to the pump.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> can you take a pic of the loop right now and post it here?


Sure.




Please excuse the mess of cables, I have the shroud removed for now









When tilting the case I heard an expellation of air. Not sure if it was a bubble or just cause by a brief change in the flow from tipping the case. Pump is back to silent again now.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

If your res is going into the pump, you shouldn't have to worry about the pump starving unless you invert your case.

Why do you have the radiator feeding into the bottom port of the GPU? Why not go into the top port? I doubt it'll change anything, but that routing just makes more sense to me.

Anyways, since your CPU temps didn't change, I think it's an air bubble in your GPU block.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> If your res is going into the pump, you shouldn't have to worry about the pump starving unless you invert your case.
> 
> Why do you have the radiator feeding into the bottom port of the GPU? Why not go into the top port? I doubt it'll change anything, but that routing just makes more sense to me.
> 
> Anyways, since your CPU temps didn't change, I think it's an air bubble in your GPU block.


I had it feeding the top before, but the only way I could get it into the GPU port was to severely kink the tubing. 3/8x5/8 tubing doesn't bend so well and I don't have anything on hand that can alleviate this issue. I will be ordering some nice dual/triple rotaries in a few weeks but till then I need to make due. I thought it was possible this kinking was causing my higher temps compared to what I have seen (my GPU does 53-56c while others are claiming their Titan X never crosses 48c).


----------



## Domler

What were your gpu temps before the change? What's your processor and are you overclocking gpu cpu? Looking for backround info.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I don't think very many people have their CPUs clocked as high as yours either though.

Do you have a straight fitting? You could route into the top slot to with a straight fitting -> see my rig.

Anywho, if you don't mind, maybe just try draining it and refilling it again to move that air bubble out of the GPU block.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> What were your gpu temps before the change? What's your processor and are you overclocking gpu cpu? Looking for backround info.


Everything is in my sig. My GPU temps ended up around 53-56c max with the cyclops3 1.27v bios. My CPU is a 3930k overclocked to 4.8-5GHz (I've been turning it down to 4.8 recently because of the extreme heat in my area)

Oh and that's GPU temps with about 25-26c ambient. When it goes up to 28-29 ambient in my room during blistering hot days it's a bit higher than that.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Everything this in my sig. My GPU temps ended up around 53-56c max with the cyclops3 1.27v bios. My CPU is a 3930k overclocked to 4.8-5GHz (I've been turning it down to 4.8 recently because of the extreme heat in my area)
> 
> Oh and that's GPU temps with about 25-26c ambient. When it goes up to 28-29 ambient in my room during blistering hot days it's a bit higher than that.


Whats your voltage?

Because if your voltage is 1.27 on 4.8 Ghz... You just won the silicon lottery with that 3930k.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Whats your voltage?
> 
> Because if your voltage is 1.27 on 4.8 Ghz... You just won the silicon lottery with that 3930k.


No, my GPU is on the 1.278v cyclops3 bios. My CPU is at 1.38v for 4.8. 1.48 for 5.0.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> No, my GPU is on the 1.278v cyclops3 bios. My CPU is at 1.38v for 4.8. 1.48 for 5.0.


Doh, my bad. I read that wrong.

Nonetheless, voltage for 4.8 Ghz is still pretty good ?.


----------



## DreamTheatrics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Everything is in my sig. My GPU temps ended up around 53-56c max with the cyclops3 1.27v bios. My CPU is a 3930k overclocked to 4.8-5GHz (I've been turning it down to 4.8 recently because of the extreme heat in my area)
> 
> Oh and that's GPU temps with about 25-26c ambient. When it goes up to 28-29 ambient in my room during blistering hot days it's a bit higher than that.


If anything, I'd just let the computer run overnight with the cap off of the reservoir and any bubbles *should* work their way out by themselves. Make a note of where the water level in the reservoir is before you go to sleep and if it's lower when you wake up the big air bubbles should be out. I wouldn't leave the cap off if the reservoir is filled really high because if the computer shuts off for any reason the water level will rise and if you filled the res to the brim it might overflow.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> No, my GPU is on the 1.278v cyclops3 bios. My CPU is at 1.38v for 4.8. 1.48 for 5.0.


mmm not sure about the increase in temps...But one possible route would be to use the 45 degrees adapter on the left top port of the gpu which will make an almost straight line to the top rad. Then the extensor+90 degrees on the top right gpu port to make the return line to the reservoir. That would avoid any kinks.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Everything is in my sig. My GPU temps ended up around 53-56c max with the cyclops3 1.27v bios. My CPU is a 3930k overclocked to 4.8-5GHz (I've been turning it down to 4.8 recently because of the extreme heat in my area)
> 
> Oh and that's GPU temps with about 25-26c ambient. When it goes up to 28-29 ambient in my room during blistering hot days it's a bit higher than that.


My titan x is pushing 1.235 at 1450 and never goes above 43. I have 120x3x60 and 120x2x45. For the rise in temp, I would say air bubble. 56 for gpu before the change, hate to say it, might have to reseat the block on gpu. That's my two cents. Used to use maxair, I'll try Cyclops 3 and see what happens.


----------



## DreamTheatrics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> My titan x is pushing 1.235 at 1450 and never goes above 43. I have 120x3x60 and 120x2x45. For the rise in temp, I would say air bubble. 56 for gpu before the change, hate to say it, might have to reseat the block on gpu. That's my two cents. Used to use maxair, I'll try Cyclops 3 and see what happens.


Yep I'm running 1.255v on my 980 Ti and I never go beyond 43C also. I concur with this man!!!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> My titan x is pushing 1.235 at 1450 and never goes above 43. I have 120x3x60 and 120x2x45. For the rise in temp, I would say air bubble. 56 for gpu before the change, hate to say it, might have to reseat the block on gpu. That's my two cents. Used to use maxair, I'll try Cyclops 3 and see what happens.


I've got 5x140mm worth of rads. Yeah that's what I'm doing right now, this would be the third time I've re-seated the block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> mmm not sure about the increase in temps...But one possible route would be to use the 45 degrees adapter on the left top port of the gpu which will make an almost straight line to the top rad. Then the extensor+90 degrees on the top right gpu port to make the return line to the reservoir. That would avoid any kinks.


Out of 45 degree fittings sadly.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> After switching my GPU intake to the bottom port, my temps have skyrocketed up to the 60s...what on earth happened.


Can you share pics. I might be in a warped universe on gpus lol. but I'd like to think I'm somewhat knowledgable about watercooling.

Happy to help though. Check my profile pic. I think that gives me a lil credibility lol


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Can you share pics. I might be in a warped universe on gpus lol. but I'd like to think I'm somewhat knowledgable about watercooling.
> 
> Happy to help though. Check my profile pic. I think that gives me a lil credibility lol


He did, go back a couple pages.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I've got 5x140mm worth of rads. Yeah that's what I'm doing right now, this would be the third time I've re-seated the block.
> Out of 45 degree fittings sadly.


I known. What I am saying is exchanging the positions of the fittings you already have. The 45 on the right side go to left top GPU and the 90 degrees on the left GPU goes right. Problem solved and you don't need the tube going down and the returning to the gpu.


----------



## sdmf74

I upgraded the dead pump and leak tested finally and thought I would share a few pics of the results. Pretty happy with the results aside from one thing. I assumed my flow restriction issues before were the pump but it seems even with a D5
Im not getting real good flow unless it cranked up high. I'm wondering if the crosschill in my MVIIF is restricting the flow quite a bit, this is the first time I have ran my loop through the chipset so Im not sure what effect that has on the overall flow of the system, granted I am using several 90 degree fittings. Its not terrible just seems like it should flow faster. This has got me considering going with acrylic tubing







If anyone has a video showing the flow going into the res of your system please share, im curious how mine compares.

changes:
upgraded pump to D5pwm and got bigger reservoir (lit now). Also put a 45 fitting under the Alphacool rad where my drainport used to be and moved it to the pump to make draining the loop much easier. Now using EK koolant evo clear intead of just straight dist. water.
Changed cable combs & reaplied thermal paste. All fans are now PWM.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I known. What I am saying is exchanging the positions of the fittings you already have. The 45 on the right side go to left top GPU and the 90 degrees on the left GPU goes right. Problem solved and you don't need the tube going down and the returning to the gpu.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Can you share pics. I might be in a warped universe on gpus lol. but I'd like to think I'm somewhat knowledgable about watercooling.
> 
> Happy to help though. Check my profile pic. I think that gives me a lil credibility lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I've got 5x140mm worth of rads. Yeah that's what I'm doing right now, this would be the third time I've re-seated the block.
> Out of 45 degree fittings sadly.


I'm going to get a lot of heat for this but have you ever tried clu on your gpu? It's easy to clean if you make a mistake and it dropped my temps a bit.

That being said order doesn't matter at all... Do you have enough rads though? You said 5x140 but I have a 420 Am I correct in assuming it's res to pump to gpu to rad to CPU back to res?


----------



## 8bitjunkie

just scored a almost new mcp35x, it has the bitspower acetal top. I all ready have a bitspower z tank. what adapter would I need to mount this tank directly to the pump.

I seen this one for the D5 pumps https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dualsingle-d5-top-reservoir-adaptor-clear-acrylic/

would it be the same one?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I'm going to get a lot of heat for this but have you ever tried clu on your gpu? It's easy to clean if you make a mistake and it dropped my temps a bit.
> 
> That being said order doesn't matter at all... Do you have enough rads though? You said 5x140 but I have a 420 Am I correct in assuming it's res to pump to gpu to rad to CPU back to res?


No. Personally I wouldn't touch the stuff as I am quite clumsy with TIM. Also I still haven't figured out how you're even supposed to get the leftover TIM out of the GPU gap... Q-tips and coffee filters just sort of smudge it.

Res --> Pump --> 280mm rad --> CPU --> 420MM rad --> GPU --> res


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

An
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I'm going to get a lot of heat for this but have you ever tried clu on your gpu? It's easy to clean if you make a mistake and it dropped my temps a bit.
> 
> That being said order doesn't matter at all... Do you have enough rads though? You said 5x140 but I have a 420 Am I correct in assuming it's res to pump to gpu to rad to CPU back to res?


Am I correct in assuming it's a 280 + 420 res? And with an oc'd card you're gonna get high temps no matter what...

I have an oc'd sli 980 classified... My temps are 38 for water and 65 max for my sli 980 classy and 4790k. I'm running a 420+ 480 with sp140s.


----------



## Domler

MapRef41N93W what's your fan speed? Haven't flashed yet. Got caught up with the wife and kid.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> MapRef41N93W what's your fan speed? Haven't flashed yet. Got caught up with the wife and kid.


My fans are all 1000 rpm blue yate loons. My rads are Magicool Slim's so I wouldn't see huge gains from much faster fans.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> My fans are all 1000 rpm blue yate loons. My rads are Magicool Slim's so I wouldn't see huge gains from much faster fans.


420 + 280 is plenty of a CPU + GPU loop. I run 240 + 240 (terrible Swiftech rads) @1000 RPM and my temps are like 50C CPU and 42C CPU while playing GW2.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I upgraded the dead pump and leak tested finally and thought I would share a few pics of the results. Pretty happy with the results aside from one thing. I assumed my flow restriction issues before were the pump but it seems even with a D5
> Im not getting real good flow unless it cranked up high. I'm wondering if the crosschill in my MVIIF is restricting the flow quite a bit, this is the first time I have ran my loop through the chipset so Im not sure what effect that has on the overall flow of the system, granted I am using several 90 degree fittings. Its not terrible just seems like it should flow faster. This has got me considering going with acrylic tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has a video showing the flow going into the res of your system please share, im curious how mine compares.
> 
> changes:
> upgraded pump to D5pwm and got bigger reservoir (lit now). Also put a 45 fitting under the Alphacool rad where my drainport used to be and moved it to the pump to make draining the loop much easier. Now using EK koolant evo clear intead of just straight dist. water.
> Changed cable combs & reaplied thermal paste. All fans are now PWM.


Very nice. ?


----------



## Domler

Sorry for all the questions. Do you have a flow sensor? Bout to flash bios.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> 420 + 280 is plenty of a CPU + GPU loop. I run 240 + 240 (terrible Swiftech rads) @1000 RPM and my temps are like 50C CPU and 42C CPU while playing GW2.


Yep I can see this now







Just finished re-building the loop. I re-seated the GPU block, ran the tubing back to the top port of the block and made a few slight other changes, and made sure to get all the darned air out. Now my max temps are 40c/43c in Firestrike/Valley and my CPU has dropped almost 8 degrees. I think I had a crap ton of air in my loop before. Remains to be seen if these are permanent temps since my thermometer is showing a hard to believe 21.7c ambient.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Sorry for all the questions. Do you have a flow sensor? Bout to flash bios.


I don't. Thought about getting one but ran out of budget. Don't think it's necessary now though.

I really appreciate all the help everyone has given me.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Glad to hear it was only air and not something more expensive!










Also, go Gators


----------



## Domler

[/quote]I don't. Thought about getting one but ran out of budget. Don't think it's necessary now though.

I really appreciate all the help everyone has given me.[/quote]
Congrats! Now you got me thinking mine might be a bit high. I hear ya on the budget. I have been adding on for two years. Put it on the list of "stuff to buy". All the OG's say at least one flow and temp. Helps in the long run. http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/koolance-ins-fm14-coolant-flow-meter.html. It's a good one. You can buy the add on multiplier and hook up to read like a fan. Can also setup to shutdown if to low. I leraned my lesson.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I feel like everyone here now says to not get a flow meter o.o


----------



## Majentrix

My loop leaked today. Didn't damage anything, but I got a scare when my PC shut down with an overheating error.

I needed an excuse to clean and refill my loop, guess this is it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Pump mounts done and the initial route is being planned out. I ditched the XSPC rad pass thrus on the radiators for a cleaner look. Got some nice spun 4mm spacers for the pumps,I still need to paint those along with the GPU retention plates. Its nice now being able to fit stuff and know it doesnt have to come out again!

Its going to be tightly packed in there too,nice and full.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pump mounts done and the initial route is being planned out. I ditched the XSPC rad pass thrus on the radiators for a cleaner look. Got some nice spun 4mm spacers for the pumps,I still need to paint those along with the GPU retention plates. Its nice now being able to fit stuff and know it doesnt have to come out again!
> 
> Its going to be tightly packed in there too,nice and full.


Holy balls that's tight


----------



## iAmCodeMonkey

Here is my sexy dominatrix...











LOL!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pump mounts done and the initial route is being planned out. I ditched the XSPC rad pass thrus on the radiators for a cleaner look. Got some nice spun 4mm spacers for the pumps,I still need to paint those along with the GPU retention plates. Its nice now being able to fit stuff and know it doesnt have to come out again!
> 
> Its going to be tightly packed in there too,nice and full.


Oh my, tight and sexy.


----------



## Domler

My bad on the flow meter. I did more digging last night and relized I should check the dates on the posts. All are restrictive. Just how much. No need for extra stress on the pump. Set cpu temp peramitors to shut down if to hot. Once again, my bad.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> My bad on the flow meter. I did more digging last night and relized I should check the dates on the posts. All are restrictive. Just how much. No need for extra stress on the pump. Set cpu temp peramitors to shut down if to hot. Once again, my bad.


Haha, that's what I figured.

B NEGATIVE: drooooooooooooool. Stop posting such gorgeous pics...


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yep I can see this now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished re-building the loop. I re-seated the GPU block, ran the tubing back to the top port of the block and made a few slight other changes, and made sure to get all the darned air out. Now my max temps are 40c/43c in Firestrike/Valley and my CPU has dropped almost 8 degrees. I think I had a crap ton of air in my loop before. Remains to be seen if these are permanent temps since my thermometer is showing a hard to believe 21.7c ambient.
> I don't. Thought about getting one but ran out of budget. Don't think it's necessary now though.
> 
> I really appreciate all the help everyone has given me.


Glad it worked. One thing: are you filling and bleeding from the highest point in the loop? I found that this makes a GIGANTIC difference.
It looks like that would be the rad. you need to fill the rad while keeping the res open, keeping an eye on the res to make sure it doesn't overflow. Periodically start the pump while filling and you want to bleed from both the res and the top rad.

Regarding the gpu gap and Tim, don't worry about it. It's harmless. you don't have to use Clu and just stick to nonconductive, but just know that it is harmless because you can clean it up using rubbing alcohol and a q tip. It comes off real easy. As long as you don't get any outside of the die (really difficult to) it works and it drops temps a bit. My twin 980 classes run at under 30C at idle and don't go over 50 under load. At 1.45 V the cards don't go over 60 under load, and drop back to 30 immediately after the load is dropped.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I just built a rad box. Thoughts?? I'm running a 420 and 480 and now with these I'll also have a 2 280s also.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Glad it worked. One thing: are you filling and bleeding from the highest point in the loop? I found that this makes a GIGANTIC difference.
> It looks like that would be the rad. you need to fill the rad while keeping the res open, keeping an eye on the res to make sure it doesn't overflow. Periodically start the pump while filling and you want to bleed from both the res and the top rad.
> 
> Regarding the gpu gap and Tim, don't worry about it. It's harmless. you don't have to use Clu and just stick to nonconductive, but just know that it is harmless because you can clean it up using rubbing alcohol and a q tip. It comes off real easy. As long as you don't get any outside of the die (really difficult to) it works and it drops temps a bit. My twin 980 classes run at under 30C at idle and don't go over 50 under load. At 1.45 V the cards don't go over 60 under load, and drop back to 30 immediately after the load is dropped.


No way to fill my loop from the top. My rad does not have additional ports and running a t-line seems like it would lead to a big mess.

I do have to say I am a bit tempted after seeing some people's results with clu on their GPUs. 5-6c difference may be worth using it.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> No way to fill my loop from the top. My rad does not have additional ports and running a t-line seems like it would lead to a big mess.
> 
> I do have to say I am a bit tempted after seeing some people's results with clu on their GPUs. 5-6c difference may be worth using it.


Yea I get what you're saying but I think it is necessary to fill from the top. I kinda had the same problem with my setup because if you look at my pic the res is lower than the highest water body. I filled from the res instead of the highest point and for the life of me I could not clear the air bubbles.

There might be a solution. If you have any spare watercooling parts that can work as a makeshift res, you can attach a line to the top of your reservoir installed and pour water through the makeshift res while you temporarily hold it at the highest point.

I hope I explained that well enough. This should help to make sure the air is eliminated. Since you can see the level of water. Thing is I don't know if the bubbles will come out of the rad and move to the makeshift res.

I can't guarantee that this'll work but someone please corroborate or offer a better solution.


----------



## Wirerat

My res/pump is at the lowest point in my loop and I fill from the res top without any issues. its just takes a day or two for all the air to bleed out. I just let the computer run most of that time and I will tilt it a few times and adjust the pump speed.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> My res/pump is at the lowest point in my loop and I fill from the res top without any issues. its just takes a day or two for all the air to bleed out. I just let the computer run most of that time and I will tilt it a few times and adjust the pump speed.


Oh ok. Thanks for clearing this up. I agree with all that esp with the shaking of the case. Doing so will consolidate the air. However I'm pretty sure you're going to have to le the air out of the highest point.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Oh ok. Thanks for clearing this up. I agree with all that esp with the shaking of the case. Doing so will consolidate the air. However I'm pretty sure you're going to have to le the air out of the highest point.


I have had this loop for 6 months and I have drained and filled a few times with various upgrades and tweaks.

That is not correct. The air will make its way to the res no matter where the res is at in the loop. You are not thinking about how it works the right way. The system is sealed and under pressure. The pump is more than strong enough to push air a up and down hill.

What you are talking about would be true if you wanted to get the air out without a pump.

Now all that being said it can be easier to bleed a loop that has a res at the highest point. But that does not mean it has to be the highest point or it cannot be bled.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

@b negative, I'm posting my current build. Can you add me to the list?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I have had this loop for 6 months and I have drained and filled a few times with various upgrades and tweaks.
> 
> That is not correct. The air will make its way to the res no matter where the res is at in the loop. You are not thinking about how it works the right way. The system is sealed and under pressure. The pump is more than strong enough to push air a up and down hill.
> 
> What you are talking about would be true if you wanted to get the air out without a pump.
> 
> Now all that being said it can be easier to bleed a loop that has a res at the highest point. But that does not mean it has to be the highest point or it cannot be bled.


Im trying to figure out why, if what youre saying is right, my loop had air that was chronically struck for over a month that would not come out, and i had hot spots. I have six temp sensors in my loop and i was getting variance of over 10-15 degrees C between one rad and the other. This has to be due to an air pocket sitting in the top res. No matter how much i moved the case around it would not come out.

Then I drained and filled it back again, only this time, I tilted the case forward so the hind legs were elevated relative to the front, and left both of the top res ports open. I have an alphacool 420 for my top res in my 900d, and i filled it this way, keeping the res open to let air flow out. After a few days all the air made its way out, but this wasnt the case before, when i filled the rig through the reservoir.

What you're saying might be right if youre working with a low resistance loop. My order is the following. Res-pump-rad-rad-vrm-cpu-gpu1-gpu2-aquacomputer filter-back to res.

I have a massive amount of flow restriction with multiple right angle connectors. I bought a second pump but im not sure if i need to install it. Im also about to set up a radbox so i get better overclocks on my classys (plus they were from a previous build so i figured id use them)



The radbox






Here is the filter im talking about


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Honestly, with that restrictive of a loop, I think a 2nd pump is in order.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Honestly, with that restrictive of a loop, I think a 2nd pump is in order.


Yea I was thinking the same thing. When I look at the res I barely see any turbulence at all and its a 250mm bitspower res filled halfway


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea I was thinking the same thing. When I look at the res I barely see any turbulence at all and its a 250mm bitspower res filled halfway


if the loop is too restrictive then thats the reason why the air was stuck.

When i using a weaker dcp 2.2 pump my loop was really difficult to bleed with the res where it is now.

With my mcp35x it pushes out 95% of the air doon as im done filling the loop.


----------



## MKHunt

On the flip side, there's the 35x in a small bay res and mid-low restriction loop scenario where anything over 40% PWM shoots the bubbles straight through and back into the loop.


----------



## Trestles126

In general under load say playing witcher 3 in highest settings what kind of temps are normal or "good" or on another scope when should u start worrying ur loops lacking?

4790k i7 stock settings at the moment
2x gtx 780tis

In a loop consisting of 2 240 rads and one 360 with the
Cpu, gpus, ram and mosfets all under watercooling blocks

My idle temps are usually 28-30 on the Cpu and 26-28 on the gpus

Under load (haven't done a benchmark yet) but playing the witcher 3 during pretty extensive parts my Cpu hits 55-58 and my gpus around 50


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> In general under load say playing witcher 3 in highest settings what kind of temps are normal or "good" or on another scope when should u start worrying ur loops lacking?
> 
> 4790k i7 stock settings at the moment
> 2x gtx 780tis
> 
> In a loop consisting of 2 240 rads and one 360 with the
> Cpu, gpus, ram and mosfets all under watercooling blocks
> 
> My idle temps are usually 28-30 on the Cpu and 26-28 on the gpus
> 
> Under load (haven't done a benchmark yet) but playing the witcher 3 during pretty extensive parts my Cpu hits 55-58 and my gpus around 50


Those temps seem just fine. I get about 45C on my GPUs, but 65C on my CPU as it is overclocked. What are your ambient temps in your room?


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Those temps seem just fine. I get about 45C on my GPUs, but 65C on my CPU as it is overclocked. What are your ambient temps in your room?


I'm gonna guess when I was playing around 79-80f


----------



## emsj86

There fine. With 2 overclocked 780d and overclocked 4790k on 360 and 240 rad with fans ranging 700-1400rpms depending on temps my cpu maxes 65 gaming and 46 on hottest gpu. Ambient is 73 I need my ac


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea I was thinking the same thing. When I look at the res I barely see any turbulence at all and its a 250mm bitspower res filled halfway


I dont have much turbulence either, it was the same way with my MCP50X pump, I cant help but to wonder if the M7F is the restrictive component. Have you ran your loop bypassing the motherboard?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> if the loop is too restrictive then thats the reason why the air was stuck.
> 
> When i using a weaker dcp 2.2 pump my loop was really difficult to bleed with the res where it is now.
> 
> With my mcp35x it pushes out 95% of the air doon as im done filling the loop.


That actually makes sense now. Thanks for sharing.

I was wondering now but the thing is that people always said on here that 2 Gpu and CPU loop was not restrictive enough to req a second pump. Now I guess I know better.

Thanks everyone. I have a dual 280 radbox that's temporary which will employ a second d5 pump

I'm thinking about getting one that's more permanent like a pedestal from case labs. Anybody have ideas on an external rad solution?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> if the loop is too restrictive then thats the reason why the air was stuck.
> 
> When i using a weaker dcp 2.2 pump my loop was really difficult to bleed with the res where it is now.
> 
> With my mcp35x it pushes out 95% of the air doon as im done filling the loop.


Just out of curiousity... If this was you what else would you change? I'll provide specs as requested.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> In general under load say playing witcher 3 in highest settings what kind of temps are normal or "good" or on another scope when should u start worrying ur loops lacking?
> 
> 4790k i7 stock settings at the moment
> 2x gtx 780tis
> 
> In a loop consisting of 2 240 rads and one 360 with the
> Cpu, gpus, ram and mosfets all under watercooling blocks
> 
> My idle temps are usually 28-30 on the Cpu and 26-28 on the gpus
> 
> Under load (haven't done a benchmark yet) but playing the witcher 3 during pretty extensive parts my Cpu hits 55-58 and my gpus around 50


Personally I do t believe in 'safe' temps for watercooling. As long as your gpu temps are under 60 at load and CPU under 80 under load I think you're good. All you can really do is add more rads via an internal or in my case an external radbox.

I'm forced to build a radbox with a 900d and only two gpus can you believe that? Jeez

On that note though. Do make sure your loop is clear if air. That throws if off majorly.


----------



## fisher6

After filling my loop and leak testing, I booted everything up to check the temps. GPU is in the 40s while running Firestrike, my CPU temps however reach 83C while running AIDA64. I just filled the loop and there are definitely some air left in the system. Do you guys think I should give the small bubbles some time or try to reapply the paste to the CPU or re-seat the CPU block? My fans are running at 1000% (360 and 240).


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I dont have much turbulence either, it was the same way with my MCP50X pump, I cant help but to wonder if the M7F is the restrictive component. Have you ran your loop bypassing the motherboard?


I have not tried it but to be honest the water boil isn't too different before the board and after. Vrm blocks usually are but in this case I'm not so sure and I got s second pump I'm about to use so I'm honestly not that concerned.

Thank you again everyone for the feedback. That's what makes this forum my favorite... Seriously.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> After filling my loop and leak testing, I booted everything up to check the temps. GPU is in the 40s while running Firestrike, my CPU temps however reach 83C while running AIDA64. I just filled the loop and there are definitely some air left in the system. Do you guys think I should give the small bubbles some time or try to reapply the paste to the CPU or re-seat the CPU block? My fans are running at 1000% (360 and 240).


As of this point what have you done to get the bubbles out?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I borked the CPU block Outlet, and it is crooked, and the cpu inlet is a little bit off compared to what I would had hoped for, but the soft tubing in the front is gone now, and most of the 90 degree fittings have been replaced with bends. This picture is terrible, but I can't get better lighting on it right now.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

droooooool. quad SLI???


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> As of this point what have you done to get the bubbles out?


I'm working on my external rad Solution that includes s second d5 pump.







[/URL]


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> droooooool. quad SLI???


:-D Quad K|ngp|ns. I just have the lights disabled.. it makes for a pretty light show lol


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> As of this point what have you done to get the bubbles out?


Just the usual, moving the case and tilting and trying different pump speed. I just can tiny bubbles in the CPU block and some of the tubing but nothing that I would think would affect temps so much.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> 
> Personally I do t believe in 'safe' temps for watercooling. As long as your gpu temps are under 60 at load and CPU under 80 under load I think you're good. All you can really do is add more rads via an internal or in my case an external radbox.
> 
> I'm forced to build a radbox with a 900d and only two gpus can you believe that? Jeez
> 
> On that note though. Do make sure your loop is clear if air. That throws if off majorly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I borked the CPU block Outlet, and it is crooked, and the cpu inlet is a little bit off compared to what I would had hoped for, but the soft tubing in the front is gone now, and most of the 90 degree fittings have been replaced with bends. This picture is terrible, but I can't get better lighting on it right now.


Thanks. I meant in terms of long term mods. I've only been watercooling for the past 6 months but I still have a long way to go.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> :-D Quad K|ngp|ns. I just have the lights disabled.. it makes for a pretty light show lol


I've never seen that before!!! Are the LEDs made for the waterblock or did you do them yourself?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I've never seen that before!!! Are the LEDs made for the waterblock or did you do them yourself?


They are 980 K|ngp|ns, so I removed the LED strips from the stock RGB cooler, and placed them on the back of my waterblocks, which made the entire block light up like a christmas tree.. I love it, but the ASUS RVE keeps mixing up the GPU's and which slot they are located in, and they end up displaying the colors out of order.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I meant in terms of long term mods. I've only been watercooling for the past 6 months but I still have a long way to go.


Not sure why I got quoted... Did I miss something?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> They are 980 K|ngp|ns, so I removed the LED strips from the stock RGB cooler, and placed them on the back of my waterblocks, which made the entire block light up like a christmas tree.. I love it, but the ASUS RVE keeps mixing up the GPU's and which slot they are located in, and they end up displaying the colors out of order.


Nice to see someone in the same situation as me. We both decided to get 980s but I really dont think either of us had the idea that a ti would come out at the same ptice


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Nice to see someone in the same situation as me. We both decided to get 980s but I really dont think either of us had the idea that a ti would come out at the same ptice


I bought them shortly before the 980ti was announced, but I knew it was coming. I am only at 1440p, so the 980 is working great for me honestly.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I bought them shortly before the 980ti was announced, but I knew it was coming. I am only at 1440p, so the 980 is working great for me honestly.


That's the same decision I came to becAuse the 980 sli is working find now but I too am at 1440p. And I max everything out and get well over 75fps


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> After filling my loop and leak testing, I booted everything up to check the temps. GPU is in the 40s while running Firestrike, my CPU temps however reach 83C while running AIDA64. I just filled the loop and there are definitely some air left in the system. Do you guys think I should give the small bubbles some time or try to reapply the paste to the CPU or re-seat the CPU block? My fans are running at 1000% (360 and 240).


After filling the loop, I always run my pump on max overnight to make sure all the little bubbles are out of the system, especially before stress testing. Some thermal pastes need to burn in to be more effective too. You left out what voltage/oc your cpu is on. Let it run for a day then decide if you think its the paste or not.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> After filling the loop, I always run my pump on max overnight to make sure all the little bubbles are out of the system, especially before stress testing. Some thermal pastes need to burn in to be more effective too. You left out what voltage/oc your cpu is on. Let it run for a day then decide if you think its the paste or not.


I let it run yesterday for 8 hours during the day but that was just for leak testing. I got a 4790k running at [email protected]


----------



## aerial

Early stage of my TJ07 parallel loop. Waiting for good deal on 480mm rad to put inside the case, so far I'm using external radiator/pump (560mm).


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> @b negative, I'm posting my current build. Can you add me to the list?
> Im trying to figure out why, if what youre saying is right, my loop had air that was chronically struck for over a month that would not come out, and i had hot spots. I have six temp sensors in my loop and i was getting variance of over 10-15 degrees C between one rad and the other. This has to be due to an air pocket sitting in the top res. No matter how much i moved the case around it would not come out.
> 
> Then I drained and filled it back again, only this time, I tilted the case forward so the hind legs were elevated relative to the front, and left both of the top res ports open. I have an alphacool 420 for my top res in my 900d, and i filled it this way, keeping the res open to let air flow out. After a few days all the air made its way out, but this wasnt the case before, when i filled the rig through the reservoir.
> 
> What you're saying might be right if youre working with a low resistance loop. My order is the following. Res-pump-rad-rad-vrm-cpu-gpu1-gpu2-aquacomputer filter-back to res.
> 
> I have a massive amount of flow restriction with multiple right angle connectors. I bought a second pump but im not sure if i need to install it. Im also about to set up a radbox so i get better overclocks on my classys (plus they were from a previous build so i figured id use them)
> 
> 
> 
> The radbox
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the filter im talking about


What pump are u running? My ek d5 does pretty well with a similar loop in a Caselabs s8 pump-2x 780tis-360 rad- vram block- Cpu block-ram block-240 rad-aqua res- 240 rad- back to pump when I filled it the bubbles were haulin ass thru it. And bled in a day


----------



## lurker2501

Dual 420mm goodness.


----------



## siffonen

Took some shots in finnish summer


----------



## ColdFusion 13

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Early stage of my TJ07 parallel loop. Waiting for good deal on 480mm rad to put inside the case, so far I'm using external radiator/pump (560mm).


looks nice but with 1 card, that parallel loop will not do any work pushing water through the block like it was designed to do. water will follow the path of least resistance so it will just flow through the top of the card only passing right through with no good cooling property. you wont lose huge.... but will probably gain 10c+ going to a serial design like the block was meant for. parallel only works to increase flow when you have 3+ gpu blocks. and even still when using parallel, you still want to "series offset" your inlet and outlet otherwise a similar issue of water flowing to the path of least resistance and running mostly down the left or right side (whichever your in/out is on).


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFusion 13*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> looks nice but with 1 card, that parallel loop will not do any work pushing water through the block like it was designed to do. water will follow the path of least resistance so it will just flow through the top of the card only passing right through with no good cooling property. you wont lose huge.... but will probably gain 10c+ going to a serial design like the block was meant for. parallel only works to increase flow when you have 3+ gpu blocks. and even still when using parallel, you still want to "series offset" your inlet and outlet otherwise a similar issue of water flowing to the path of least resistance and running mostly down the left or right side (whichever your in/out is on).


I can compare to serial, but with core only heatkiller block, and there is pretty much no difference in temps. During bleeding, I could see air bubbles going through both cpu and gpu block. Note that both block have some restriction, so water doesn't just go through one block. I don't know if flow is close to equal through both blocks, or not, but judging by how fast air bubbles were moving, it was about the same.
So yeah, it works fine.
I'm using it purely for aesthetics. Fact that it peforms pretty much the same as my previous serial loop is just nice addition. I wouldn't mind even if it was performing couple of degrees worse. Already running very low flow setup, with dcp 2.2 pump at 7v.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFusion 13*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> looks nice but with 1 card, that parallel loop will not do any work pushing water through the block like it was designed to do. water will follow the path of least resistance so it will just flow through the top of the card only passing right through with no good cooling property. you wont lose huge.... but will probably gain 10c+ going to a serial design like the block was meant for. parallel only works to increase flow when you have 3+ gpu blocks. and even still when using parallel, you still want to "series offset" your inlet and outlet otherwise a similar issue of water flowing to the path of least resistance and running mostly down the left or right side (whichever your in/out is on).


Doesn't the coolant follow the path of the block? Meaning .... there shouldn't be a path from inlet to outlet directly? Correct?

Like this:


----------



## aerial

It does. It can go either through the gpu block or cpu, but water must go through entire block.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Early stage of my TJ07 parallel loop. Waiting for good deal on 480mm rad to put inside the case, so far I'm using external radiator/pump (560mm).






Dang nice setup. That desk is pretty nice too! Very spacious!


----------



## ColdFusion 13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Doesn't the coolant follow the path of the block? Meaning .... there shouldn't be a path from inlet to outlet directly? Correct?
> 
> Like this:


correct.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> It does. It can go either through the gpu block or cpu, but water must go through entire block.


except in your case... the ports at the top of the block are only divided by left and right to ensure a flow through the water block. the way you have it there is no force pushing water into the gpu block. the water is allowed to flow freely from the "top hoses" to the "bottom hoses" with no force pushing water into the block itself.

not saying the water doesn't travel or mix into the block.... just that you aren't getting anywhere near what you should be getting if you had it set the way it is intended.

of course it isn't my loop, so i don't mind either way. was just giving a quick heads up.









edit: in fact, you are probably losing some C in your cpu block as well as there is probably a loss of direct flow and some warm water getting mixed around in the gpu before it heads back to the rad/pump/res. honeslty... i may be wrong and if so one of the many helpful people here will correct me, but i think you have done yourself a disservice with that setup other than the nice looking aesthetics.

again i dont think it is detrimental.... just that you could be getting so much more out of it.... but it is your loop....


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFusion 13*
> 
> correct.
> except in your case... the ports at the top of the block are only divided by left and right to ensure a flow through the water block. the way you have it there is no force pushing water into the gpu block. the water is allowed to flow freely from the "top hoses" to the "bottom hoses" with no force pushing water into the block itself.
> 
> not saying the water doesn't travel or mix into the block.... just that you aren't getting anywhere near what you should be getting if you had it set the way it is intended.
> 
> of course it isn't my loop, so i don't mind either way. was just giving a quick heads up.


I guess I'm confused. isn't the pump pushing the coolant up through the GPU? If not, does it really matter because the flow will always be going through the block? WC nub ... that's why I'm asking.


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFusion 13*
> 
> correct.
> except in your case... the ports at the top of the block are only divided by left and right to ensure a flow through the water block. the way you have it there is no force pushing water into the gpu block. the water is allowed to flow freely from the "top hoses" to the "bottom hoses" with no force pushing water into the block itself.
> 
> not saying the water doesn't travel or mix into the block.... just that you aren't getting anywhere near what you should be getting if you had it set the way it is intended.
> 
> of course it isn't my loop, so i don't mind either way. was just giving a quick heads up.


Well, it may appear that way, but really, water does go through the gpu block. Why? Because cpu block is more restrictive, thats why big % of flow goes through the gpu block.
I realize that flow isn't what it would be in serial, but if I'm getting pretty much same temperatures as with gpu core only block watercool heatkiller, then should I be worried? I always though full cover blocks supposed to be slightly worse than core only in terms of core temps.
And it isn't just temperature results, but you can see how water flows through each block, when there are air bubbles in it, during process of bleeding. And as I said, I was getting ~ same flow rate through both blocks.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFusion 13*
> 
> correct.
> except in your case... the ports at the top of the block are only divided by left and right to ensure a flow through the water block. the way you have it there is no force pushing water into the gpu block. the water is allowed to flow freely from the "top hoses" to the "bottom hoses" with no force pushing water into the block itself.
> 
> not saying the water doesn't travel or mix into the block.... just that you aren't getting anywhere near what you should be getting if you had it set the way it is intended.
> 
> of course it isn't my loop, so i don't mind either way. was just giving a quick heads up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: in fact, you are probably losing some C in your cpu block as well as there is probably a loss of direct flow and some warm water getting mixed around in the gpu before it heads back to the rad/pump/res. honeslty... i may be wrong and if so one of the many helpful people here will correct me, but i think you have done yourself a disservice with that setup other than the nice looking aesthetics.
> 
> again i dont think it is detrimental.... just that you could be getting so much more out of it.... but it is your loop....


This is not the only parallel setup that has been done. It will give some difference in cooling potential, but not to the extent of what you are saying. @B NEGATIVE just did one with his HeretEK build. Here's the final picture from the build log He is not the only one that has done it though. Just the most recent I could find.


----------



## Domler

S8 inbound. Enthusiasm is at a fever pitch. Wife is awesome and said when it comes she run some errands. My four years old daughter and I are gonna get it assemble. I love she she is just as excited as I am. Lol monster in the making?


----------



## niejasiek

The only downside of parallel is when each block gets half of the flow, it will mean worse temps in cpu-only or gpu-only load.
When the parallel flows are more-or-less equal, and both the cpu and gpu are loaded, it should perform as well as a serial setup.
The only hard part here is getting the flows equal


----------



## Kimir

Parallel work just fine and this build aerial, is beautiful.


----------



## ColdFusion 13

didnt say it doesnt work. and wasnt even saying anything bad about the build.... even said it looks nice.


----------



## aerial

It is ok, no problem.
We are just pointing out that what you said can happen only if one of blocks in parallel loop would have dramatically different restriction. Then block with high restriction would receive nearly no flow, and that would cause big hit in performance.
But in many cases flow spread is quite even, and then results are similar to serial.
Note that flow doesn't have that much impact on performance of most blocks, so differences in temp are minimal, unless we are talking about extreme scenario.
For example If i have cpu only loop, and run pump at 12v and then reduce it to 5, temp difference is less than 2 degrees. And flow drops by a lot (way less than half of 12v). So if parallel loop halves flow, difference in temp is minimal, often below 1 deg.


----------



## Jakusonfire

A simple parallel loop like that works just fine, as the owner described. There certainly won't be anything like 10C difference to serial. The flow rate through each block is determined by its resistance. Both blocks will cause exactly equal pressure drop, each half of the total, but the flow rate that each causes that drop may be slightly different so their flow rates will be slightly different.

Each block gets about half the flow rate, but that isn't half the flow rate of a serial loop. It is half of a much higher flow rate than serial.

Even in a very mismatched case like an EK supremacy and aquacomp titan, say 1psi each, that is about 2lpm for the gpu and 4lpm for the CPU. Even at half the flow rate that is only about 1-2C different to a serial loop for gpu temps. Aquacomp changed their block design to be higher flow though so the flow rates will be much closer together.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A simple parallel loop like that works just fine, as the owner described. There certainly won't be anything like 10C difference to serial. The flow rate through each block is determined by its resistance. Both blocks will cause exactly equal pressure drop, each half of the total, but the flow rate that each causes that drop may be slightly different so their flow rates will be slightly different.
> 
> Each block gets about half the flow rate, but that isn't half the flow rate of a serial loop. It is half of a much higher flow rate than serial


The parallel blocks increase the total loop flow by lowering total restriction compared to a full serial loop. Then that higher flowrate is divided per each block.

Makes good sense. I like how the routing looks.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> S8 inbound. Enthusiasm is at a fever pitch. Wife is awesome and said when it comes she run some errands. My four years old daughter and I are gonna get it assemble. I love she she is just as excited as I am. Lol monster in the making?


I bet someone is beside themselves today! Will sub to your build log.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A simple parallel loop like that works just fine, as the owner described. There certainly won't be anything like 10C difference to serial. The flow rate through each block is determined by its resistance. Both blocks will cause exactly equal pressure drop, each half of the total, but the flow rate that each causes that drop may be slightly different so their flow rates will be slightly different.
> 
> Each block gets about half the flow rate, but that isn't half the flow rate of a serial loop. It is half of a much higher flow rate than serial


Finally . .

Someone with some knowledge and understanding said something explanatory that makes sense of all the silliness and misinformation . . .

Thank you
















D.


----------



## kizwan

The single card (gpu) throw everyone off.


----------



## markag

I built my watercooling loop all the way back in 2010, and I've not really touched it since then. I've never had a leak, but I do notice that I need to top off my reservoir every few months. If I had to guess, I would think that I'm loosing about 1/2 oz a month roughly. My computer pretty much stays on 24/7, but I don't ever remember my loop loosing water at that rate in the past. About a year ago, I took it all apart, cleaned my CPU block, inspected for leaks (didn't have any), and put it all back together. I'm still loosing water, not really sure why. I've chalked it up to evaporation, since I'm not actually seeing any evidence of a leak. And I'm assuming that leaving it on 24/7 makes it evaporate quicker.

Does it seem like I'm most likely dealing with evaporation? Do the hoses deteriorate over time to a point where they evaporate more than when they are new? I used PrimoFLEX tubing.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niejasiek*
> 
> The only downside of parallel is when each block gets half of the flow, it will mean worse temps in cpu-only or gpu-only load.
> When the parallel flows are more-or-less equal, and both the cpu and gpu are loaded, it should perform as well as a serial setup.
> The only hard part here is getting the flows equal


I think Jay debunked this myth about parallel having poor flow overall...I think if youre running a tri or quad sli setup itll def help, but under that, i dont think its neccessary. However at that point you might want to invest in setting up a gpu loop by iself.


----------



## wermad

I tested both (quad sli) and there's little to no difference for the average user and setup between parallel and series.

The only exception is when pushing extremely high clocks. We're talking about clocks to make you a contender for world records. And certain cores may respond differently. I know for sure Tsm160 had a difference on his Hawaii cards when doing extreme oc'ing. Series had a good difference vs parallel. He was gunning for a record.


----------



## Domler

So. I got a couple of packages today. Step one. Clean my old setup. The funnel looked bigger online. So I made my own. Kept the straw that came with it. And yes, I know. Part two is for the system. Part one is for rads only. The other package will be posted soon!!!☺


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So. I got a couple of packages today. Step one. Clean my old setup. The funnel looked bigger online. So I made my own. Kept the straw that came with it. And yes, I know. Part two is for the system. Part one is for rads only. The other package will be posted soon!!!☺


Some rads are incredibly filthy. I found out after i bought my alphacool rads that they're probably the dirtiest. I didn't want to shell out the money for this kit even though I probably should have. Let us know how it works out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So. I got a couple of packages today. Step one. Clean my old setup. The funnel looked bigger online. So I made my own. Kept the straw that came with it. And yes, I know. Part two is for the system. Part one is for rads only. The other package will be posted soon!!!☺


AHahahaha, I did this with a funnel and a piece of lengthy tubing that I've discarded so I can fill horizontally or vertically with hardly any issue. With three 360s in my loop I figured that's the way to go and I use an old barbed fitting at the other end.

Your looks better but mine is more likely to work better for me.









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markag*
> 
> I built my watercooling loop all the way back in 2010, and I've not really touched it since then. I've never had a leak, but I do notice that I need to top off my reservoir every few months. If I had to guess, I would think that I'm loosing about 1/2 oz a month roughly. My computer pretty much stays on 24/7, but I don't ever remember my loop loosing water at that rate in the past. About a year ago, I took it all apart, cleaned my CPU block, inspected for leaks (didn't have any), and put it all back together. I'm still loosing water, not really sure why. I've chalked it up to evaporation, since I'm not actually seeing any evidence of a leak. And I'm assuming that leaving it on 24/7 makes it evaporate quicker.
> 
> Does it seem like I'm most likely dealing with evaporation? Do the hoses deteriorate over time to a point where they evaporate more than when they are new? I used PrimoFLEX tubing.


I actually have lost about 1" of fluid from my CPU reservoir over the course of a month. Again, no leaks at all. I've literally turned the case upside down. 90% of the time for me it's air bubbles finally breaking lose and making space. I have a ******ed amount of radiator space and half of them are flat (x3 480mm + 360mm).

Since you disassembled your loop you might be experiencing something very similar with air.-


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So after playing an hour of GTA V today, I'm finding that for some reason the temps in my loop never seem to hit an equilibrium when my CPU is being stressed heavily. My temps start really good (about 43-44c for a few minutes) then keep rising. By the end of the playthrough my GPU was hitting 56c while my CPU was hitting in the 60s. This is only happening in games that really stress CPU. After 3 hours of NBA 2k15 I was still seeing only about 44c max temps on my GPU (this is at 4K and this game in menus is EXTREMELY GPU taxing).

What would cause my temps to keep rising like that? Is it because I have my rads set to intake and only 1 exhaust on the rear (though it's almost completely un-restricted).


----------



## Domler

Took my swimmies off. System is cleaning out now. Now I got clean the table off that I clean off last for the big reveal. Amazing how fast my family can clutter up a table. Gonna start a build log tonight. Gonna take pics. Just got to figure how to start a build log since this will be my first one.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

I just found this thread and thought I'd vent a little and see if anyone wanted to offer their thoughts.

I've been contemplating and planning a water cooled system for almost a year now. I've put together a few concepts, priced them out, etc, but I'm a little nervous. On the one hand it's going to be an awesome experience. On the other hand it's going to be an awful lot of work and cost an awful lot of money. Also, I hate the idea of having my system down for three-four weeks while I build the loop. As a result, I said to myself, if I found the confidence to give it a go I'd start completely fresh and keep my current system up and running while I build the new one. This might ease my nerves. I was diagnosed with a serious anxiety disorder and depression 8 years ago and it's rarely receded long enough to do anything massive in my life. As much as I love computers and building them, I can become extremely anxious. Sometimes my hand shakes so much I can't use a simple screwdriver. That might be a little too much information, but maybe somebody will understand where I'm coming from.

Anyway, I wanted to throw some ideas out there for criticism. I have two designs that use a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe. One is with a thick 360 cooling a GPU like a 980ti and a CPU like a 4790K. The other is a thick 360 and a 120 cooling the same. I prefer the simplicity and looks of the 360, but from what I've seen many would suggest adding more radiator surface area for a GPU like a 980ti. Any thoughts? To me, adding a 120 might only reduce the temperatures by 5°C for the GPU and maybe 3°C for the CPU. Is that really worth an extra €100? With the Maxwell architecture being the way it is-voltage restrictions, low thermals in general, etc.-is that really necessary? If I'm wrong in any of my thinking here, please let me know. All I am going by is the information I've seen from DazMode's YouTube videos and a few articles that I cannot corroborate.




My second loop is a little more advanced. It uses the new Hex Gear R40, with a thin 360 and a thin 240, as well as memory block for the craic. This loop is obviously more complex, and it's a smaller case. I prefer the look of right-angled fittings-the Bitspower ones anyway-but I know many would suggest tube bending over it, both for reducing the amount of potential leaks and saving money.



Ultimately, my goal is to gain the experience and finally have a silent system (the pump noise is irritating on my AIO) that looks dope. I do enjoy a bit of benchmarking and overclocking, but I'm not going for 5Ghz for my CPU's and 1600Mhz for my GPU's. I just want a silent rig that I can dig the hell out of and show off to the few friends I have. I'd be satisfied with a 980ti @1500/2000Mhz and a 4790K @ 4.8Ghz.


----------



## Archea47

Hey Team,

I'm looking for some 90* (or double 45*) outer G1/4 to inner G/14 fittings to use with the black EK compression fittings I have

The width needs to be no greater than 18.5mm due to the ports being so close together on my NB block

The EK fittings don't fit the bill as they're too wide (19.8mm)

The Alphacool fittings look like they would fit the bill but out of stock @ PPCs (http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-angled-adaptor-90-revolvable-g1-4-outer-thread-to-g1-4-inner-thread-deep-black.html#Specifications)

Any other ideas? I saw the Alphacool dual 45s have bad reviews (leak) so I wasn't considering those


----------



## Domler

Yeah. It's time.


----------



## longroadtrip

Just waiting on the pump and fittings now...


----------



## Faster_is_better

Hopefully in about a week I'll have a big pile of boxes to post up here too. Seems to be watercooling season.... time to BEAT THE HEAT.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Team,
> 
> I'm looking for some 90* (or double 45*) outer G1/4 to inner G/14 fittings to use with the black EK compression fittings I have
> 
> The width needs to be no greater than 18.5mm due to the ports being so close together on my NB block
> 
> The EK fittings don't fit the bill as they're too wide (19.8mm)
> 
> The Alphacool fittings look like they would fit the bill but out of stock @ PPCs (http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-angled-adaptor-90-revolvable-g1-4-outer-thread-to-g1-4-inner-thread-deep-black.html#Specifications)
> 
> Any other ideas? I saw the Alphacool dual 45s have bad reviews (leak) so I wasn't considering those


Do not ever ever ever get male to female alphacool 90 elbows unless you're getting double female threads. I've gotten so many leaks becUse they need a wrench to tighten then fully.

The problem is they have a double rotating collar which is great but the one with the male thread is wayyy too small. Maybe my hands are just too big lol. 

You get what you pay for. These are mad cheap for a reason. You can get the double female elbow but you need another male to male fitting


----------



## fisher6

The EK metal block with fins was in the wrong orientation in relation to the jetplate. Temps went down to 59-60C from 83 now in AIDA. The bitspower drain valve is a life and time saver.


----------



## Domler

Well, everybody is right. I am at a loss for words. Thus was the only thing I could think of.

Now I know people say 45 to 90 min to assemble. Nobody tells you about the hour and a half of unpacking and drooling over each piece of brilliance that you unfold. My god I am at a loss for words. It's not even put together yet and all I'm thinking is how I have wasted my money on crap cases in the past. Cooler masters, nzxt, corsair. They were good, until now. Smoke break over. Back to work. ☺


----------



## Ceadderman

CaseLabbers









Just unpack the bleeding thing an put it together.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> The EK metal block with fins was in the wrong orientation in relation to the jetplate. Temps went down to 59-60C from 83 now in AIDA. The bitspower drain valve is a life and time saver.


I had a similar issue as you , but I didn't have the high temps like you did, which is kind of confusing. My base plate was installed with the fins vertically and the jet plate was horizontal as pictured here. I only saw about a 5*C drop when correcting it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, everybody is right. I am at a loss for words. Thus was the only thing I could think of.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I know people say 45 to 90 min to assemble. Nobody tells you about the hour and a half of unpacking and drooling over each piece of brilliance that you unfold. My god I am at a loss for words. It's not even put together yet and all I'm thinking is how I have wasted my money on crap cases in the past. Cooler masters, nzxt, corsair. They were good, until now. Smoke break over. Back to work. ☺


lol, Don't get too excited and forget to edit your build log.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> My second loop is a little more advanced. It uses the new Hex Gear R40, with a thin 360 and a thin 240, as well as memory block for the craic. This loop is obviously more complex, and it's a smaller case. I prefer the look of right-angled fittings-the Bitspower ones anyway-but I know many would suggest tube bending over it, both for reducing the amount of potential leaks and saving money.


This one, definitely.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> This one, definitely.


I don't really want to bend tubes. What are the negatives exactly against using right-angled fittings, apart from the additional cost?


----------



## Ceadderman

The additional cost.

That and bending takes time and patience.

That's it in a nutshell.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> The EK metal block with fins was in the wrong orientation in relation to the jetplate. Temps went down to 59-60C from 83 now in AIDA. The bitspower drain valve is a life and time saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a similar issue as you , but I didn't have the high temps like you did, which is kind of confusing. My base plate was installed with the fins vertically and the jet plate was horizontal as pictured here. I only saw about a 5*C drop when correcting it.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, everybody is right. I am at a loss for words. Thus was the only thing I could think of.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I know people say 45 to 90 min to assemble. Nobody tells you about the hour and a half of unpacking and drooling over each piece of brilliance that you unfold. My god I am at a loss for words. It's not even put together yet and all I'm thinking is how I have wasted my money on crap cases in the past. Cooler masters, nzxt, corsair. They were good, until now. Smoke break over. Back to work. ☺
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> lol, Don't get too excited and forget to edit your build log.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm just not understanding you very well, but . . . .

You do realize that the jetplate and top is assembled correctly to the channels in the base in that picture.

If you assembled the block so that the channels and the jetplate all run in the same direction, then that's wrong.

You may or may not see a difference if the whole block is rotated 90 degrees, but in that pic, the block itself is assembled correctly.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So. I got a couple of packages today. Step one. Clean my old setup. The funnel looked bigger online. So I made my own. Kept the straw that came with it. And yes, I know. Part two is for the system. Part one is for rads only. The other package will be posted soon!!!☺


Before I heard of the mayhems pro lot, I ran a 1:4 ratio of vinegar : distilled. Once I re flushed with mayhems, they were actually very clean. I just ordered my 489 and 560 for my CL SMA8 build, so I may flush it with vinegar and distilled again, before I use part 1.

This kit is very nice too. I've boughten two so far


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I don't really want to bend tubes. What are the negatives exactly against using right-angled fittings, apart from the additional cost?


You'll need a heat gun and a primo chill bending kit. Keep in mind that one is for 12mm od.

As mentioned by the other guy it is difficult. It has a learning curve and even after it takes time and patience.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Before I heard of the mayhems pro lot, I ran a 1:4 ratio of vinegar : distilled. Once I re flushed with mayhems, they were actually very clean. I just ordered my 489 and 560 for my CL SMA8 build, so I may flush it with vinegar and distilled again, before I use part 1.
> 
> This kit is very nice too. I've boughten two so far


What rads are you using? Ek rads have already been given the blitz treatment to my knowledge.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I don't really want to bend tubes. What are the negatives exactly against using right-angled fittings, apart from the additional cost?


Aesthetically it's more pleasing to the eye to have bent tubing and no angled fittings.

Functionally you increase leak potential with more fittings.

Seems everyone was talking around your actual question. LoL!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> What rads are you using? Ek rads have already been given the blitz treatment to my knowledge.


The first time i used blitz pro, I used an XSPC RX360, RX240 and EX240. For my 480 and 560 that I just ordered, it's an RX480 and black ice nemesis 560 GTS. I'll be using blitz pro on those two sometime this week when I'm not busy with school.


----------



## Domler

Wow. This thing is impressive. Running to auto store to grab lint free rags. I know I shouldn't take the paper off the plexi, but I couldn't resist. Taking the plexi out. Wiping it down with pledge and lint free rags and storing them till I'm done. Just wow. Glad I'm on vacation.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Do not ever ever ever get male to female alphacool 90 elbows unless you're getting double female threads. I've gotten so many leaks becUse they need a wrench to tighten then fully.
> 
> The problem is they have a double rotating collar which is great but the one with the male thread is wayyy too small. Maybe my hands are just too big lol.
> 
> You get what you pay for. These are mad cheap for a reason. You can get the double female elbow but you need another male to male fitting


i have no problems that you speak of. the only leak i have ever had from alphacool rotaries was because an alphacool fat boy high flow barb couldnt bottom out and seal in the rotary 90*. the threads are too long on the fat boys.
also, using twice as many fittings gives twice the potential for leaks. why buy twice as many cheap fittings? you may as well buy half as many 'better' fittings.


----------



## emsj86

For those that paint or painted there cases. I know how to prep metal for paint but how do you guys prep you plastic? Lightly sanding and paint with adhesive it premier than paint. Also what paint do you use for plastic or recommend? I read acrylic based but I want to make sure.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For those that paint or painted there cases. I know how to prep metal for paint but how do you guys prep you plastic? Lightly sanding and paint with adhesive it premier than paint. Also what paint do you use for plastic or recommend? I read acrylic based but I want to make sure.


I used xim plastic bonding primer on my NES build and this stuff is as tougher than any primer I ever used. you can not scratch this stuff off once it is cured. I personally like rustoleum enamel for finish paint.
http://www.amazon.com/11435-Plastic-Bonding-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00JDG8P54


----------



## jdstock76

Does anyone know if AlphaCool is shipping the new "blue" labeled rads yet? Going to put in an order to PPC.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*


I took this from my build log these are the steps I did to achieve my finish.

I'll go through the process that I did

-sanded system with 400 grit sand paper
-sprayed plastic bonding primer, 2 coats
-sanded with 400 grit
-4 coats gloss white enamel spray paint ( I used rustoleum as this seemed like the most durable )
-let dry 1 full week
-wet sanded with 1500 grit until very smooth
-and a once over with rubbing compound
-still have to polish after (this is not needed but I want it- my OCD )

I was going to do a clear coat after the paint ,but it looked very good all ready and did not want to risk it doing something bad.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Does anyone know if AlphaCool is shipping the new "blue" labeled rads yet? Going to put in an order to PPC.


I've seen a few around this thread. I believe that it is currently stock based depending on the retailer. I'll see if I can find any of them again. You may also want to ask VSG (@geggeg), he tends to get some insider info.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> I took this from my build log these are the steps I did to achieve my finish.
> 
> I'll go through the process that I did
> 
> -sanded system with 400 grit sand paper
> -sprayed plastic bonding primer, 2 coats
> -sanded with 400 grit
> -4 coats gloss white enamel spray paint ( I used rustoleum as this seemed like the most durable )
> -let dry 1 full week
> -wet sanded with 1500 grit until very smooth
> -and a once over with rubbing compound
> -still have to polish after (this is not needed but I want it- my OCD )
> 
> I was going to do a clear coat after the paint ,but it looked very good all ready and did not want to risk it doing something bad.


Thank you. For the information. It will def. Come to good use


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Oh but it smells sooo minty!


Just wanted to let you know that you are on the front page of /r/PCMasterRace
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3cckgj/how_to_keep_your_pc_fresh/

Edit: You were on the front page


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Maybe I'm just not understanding you very well, but . . . .
> 
> You do realize that the jetplate and top is assembled correctly to the channels in the base in that picture.
> 
> If you assembled the block so that the channels and the jetplate all run in the same direction, then that's wrong.
> 
> You may or may not see a difference if the whole block is rotated 90 degrees, but in that pic, the block itself is assembled correctly.


Ok, I took the block apart to install Jet 3, when I put it back together I put the insert and jet horizontally and the base plate was vertical. Someone posted a question on how it was supposed to go back together so I looked at mine, the manual, and saw that it was not installed correctly. So I changed it to match the manual on the EK site. In the current config, the slot in the insert and jet is vertical and the base plate horizontal.


----------



## Ceadderman

People are nucking futs. There are guys on that Reddit link suggesting antifreeze regardless of what another's loop consists of.









I pity the poor sot running an acrylic loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i have no problems that you speak of. the only leak i have ever had from alphacool rotaries was because an alphacool fat boy high flow barb couldnt bottom out and seal in the rotary 90*. the threads are too long on the fat boys.
> also, using twice as many fittings gives twice the potential for leaks. why buy twice as many cheap fittings? you may as well buy half as many 'better' fittings.


Yea I agree but I wasn't talking about the thread itself but rather the collar for the thread. It's hard to grip and even when you feel like it's snug and flush with the surface it isn't watertight. It usually needs a wrench for these male to female 90 elbows


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Do not ever ever ever get male to female alphacool 90 elbows unless you're getting double female threads. I've gotten so many leaks becUse they need a wrench to tighten then fully.
> 
> The problem is they have a double rotating collar which is great but the one with the male thread is wayyy too small. Maybe my hands are just too big lol.
> 
> You get what you pay for. These are mad cheap for a reason. You can get the double female elbow but you need another male to male fitting


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i have no problems that you speak of. the only leak i have ever had from alphacool rotaries was because an alphacool fat boy high flow barb couldnt bottom out and seal in the rotary 90*. the threads are too long on the fat boys.
> also, using twice as many fittings gives twice the potential for leaks. why buy twice as many cheap fittings? you may as well buy half as many 'better' fittings.


Thanks for the input, guys!







Anything else I should be looking at? Again my main limitation is maximum width 18.5mm on the male side (into the block)

On another note - what's up with PPCs? I tried OCN55 today and it wouldn't take Edit: Just tried placing another order and it worked again!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea I agree but I wasn't talking about the thread itself but rather the collar for the thread. It's hard to grip and even when you feel like it's snug and flush with the surface it isn't watertight. It usually needs a wrench for these male to female 90 elbows


i was talking about the threads on a barb being too long to thread all the way into a rotary fitting. if you need a wrench something is wrong. i have alphacool rotaries everywhere except my gpu to sli bridge connections and didnt need a wrench for anything. you can look at my pics and count fittings yourself. none leak and all were hand tightened...
the *only* square 90* rotary i have is a bitspower. its a pain to screw in but i still didnt need a wrench. i never thought to mention to anyone that pc building and water cooling also meant you need to be physically fit...


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i was talking about the threads on a barb being too long to thread all the way into a rotary fitting. if you need a wrench something is wrong. i have alphacool rotaries everywhere except my gpu to sli bridge connections and didnt need a wrench for anything. you can look at my pics and count fittings yourself. none leak and all were hand tightened...
> the *only* square 90* rotary i have is a bitspower. its a pain to screw in but i still didnt need a wrench. i never thought to mention to anyone that pc building and water cooling also meant you need to be physically fit...


Ok it's not that way with all of them. In regards to the picture I posted with the three fittings, it's the one on the top. Not all of them are bad but the one I'm referring to is the one with the narrow collar. It's really easy to think you made that fitting watertight but with this fitting in particular it's easy to screw it up.

Again in speaking specifically about the alphacool 90 that has a male fitting on one end and the female on the other.

In nearly all cases you don't need a wrench but this particular fitting is problematic.


----------



## markag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I actually have lost about 1" of fluid from my CPU reservoir over the course of a month. Again, no leaks at all. I've literally turned the case upside down. 90% of the time for me it's air bubbles finally breaking lose and making space. I have a ******ed amount of radiator space and half of them are flat (x3 480mm + 360mm).
> 
> Since you disassembled your loop you might be experiencing something very similar with air.-


It's been over a year since I disassembled the loop, and I tried my best to completely bleed out the air. I had my system running in all sorts of weird positions with the reservoir at the highest position to try and work the air out. Over the past several months, my reservoir loses about an inch of water every 2 months. I'll top it off and then the level goes down again. I don't know if this is a sign that something is off.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markag*
> 
> It's been over a year since I disassembled the loop, and I tried my best to completely bleed out the air. I had my system running in all sorts of weird positions with the reservoir at the highest position to try and work the air out. Over the past several months, my reservoir loses about an inch of water every 2 months. I'll top it off and then the level goes down again. I don't know if this is a sign that something is off.


I really doubt it. If there's a lot of condensation there's your answer.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> Wow. This thing is impressive. Running to auto store to grab lint free rags. I know I shouldn't take the paper off the plexi, but I couldn't resist. Taking the plexi out. Wiping it down with pledge and lint free rags and storing them till I'm done. Just wow. Glad I'm on vacation.


Gratz man! Welcome to the world of CaseLabs where you will never see the other cases the same way ever again.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Just wanted to let you know that you are on the front page of /r/PCMasterRace
> https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3cckgj/how_to_keep_your_pc_fresh/
> 
> Edit: You were on the front page


Thats an amazing looking build!

You didnt actually use listerine though did you?


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. He was just comparing the color tint to a bottle of mouthwash. If the color is off, it's not by much.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Aesthetically it's more pleasing to the eye to have bent tubing and no angled fittings.
> 
> Functionally you increase leak potential with more fittings.
> 
> Seems everyone was talking around your actual question. LoL!


I always felt it was more aesthetic to use straight pipes with a bunch of right angle fittings like the way singularity computers does it.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I always felt it was more aesthetic to use straight pipes with a bunch of right angle fittings like the way singularity computers does it.


Daniel does plenty of bending it all depends on what the client prefers.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. He was just comparing the color tint to a bottle of mouthwash. If the color is off, it's not by much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh ok. I was going to say.

lol:thumb:


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Daniel does plenty of bending it all depends on what the client prefers.


Oic


----------



## andl

I can see some leftover from spillage on one card. i dried card for weeks and cleaned it. but it seems it gone


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I don't really want to bend tubes. What are the negatives exactly against using right-angled fittings, apart from the additional cost?


Using fittings will give you more places for it to leak from as well as increase the cost of the build. Make sure you go with something that has at least two o-rings to help prevent leaks and shifting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Aesthetically it's more pleasing to the eye to have bent tubing and no angled fittings.
> 
> Functionally you increase leak potential with more fittings.
> 
> Seems everyone was talking around your actual question. LoL!


That's a matter of opinion. I think it's mainly based on the build at hand on what looks better. Some builds will look great with fittings instead of bends. I used fittings instead of bends in my Parvum build and personally think it looks great. I know that @snef has done a lot of builds with fittings instead of bends as well.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> That's a matter of opinion. I think it's mainly based on the build at hand on what looks better. Some builds will look great with fittings instead of bends. I used fittings instead of bends in my Parvum build and personally think it looks great. I know that @snef has done a lot of builds with fittings instead of bends as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Exactly. He was just looking for possible pros/cons. I personally like using 90deg fittings but some builds just look fabulous without. I myself being a first time WC'er will most likely opt for either acrylic with lots of fittings or soft tubing. Purely as a time saving measure.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Exactly. He was just looking for possible pros/cons. I personally like using 90deg fittings but some builds just look fabulous without. I myself being a first time WC'er will most likely opt for either acrylic with lots of fittings or soft tubing. Purely as a time saving measure.


I think in the R40 it would be good to go with bends or a mixture of the two. The case design lends itself more towards bends in my mind because of the aesthetics of it.


----------



## larainzlo07

I was able to get my build finished this weekend. One thing I found was with the Mayhems Pastel Orange when I poured the bottle to fill the loop it was orange, but when I look at it natural lighting it looks peach colored in the tubing. I am using Bitspower PETG tubing. So I have ordered some Mayhems orange dye to see if that fixes it.

If i drain the coolant out from the loop it still looks orange as well. Any ideas of what can be causing this? I flushed the loop with distilled water by filling the rads and shaking them and then also attaching the pump to them.


----------



## szeged

i prefer fittings over bends, always have and probably always will.

#fittingsmasterrace


----------



## snef

ive made both and i like both, maybe a little bit more on fittings side but, i think its depends on case and build plans you have

i dont think fiitings was the way for Green Carnage and Renegade X, i like both with bend but, i used bend in Sand of God and it was a mistake,

each build is different IMO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Thats an amazing looking build!
> 
> You didnt actually use listerine though did you?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. He was just comparing the color tint to a bottle of mouthwash. If the color is off, it's not by much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Oh ok. I was going to say.
> 
> lol:thumb:


Maybe was this ??


----------



## wigz81

i like a nice 90 degree bend as much as anyone else but overall i like it mixed. i like using a 90 degree when the plane changes. looks nice and makes the whole ordeal of using acrylic a bit easier. two or three planes on a single tube can get frustrating.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I made it back from my Trip in one Piece! Going to the P.O. Box to see if i've gotten a backplate or anything for the WB installation on this 780 Sc.










I kinda missed you guys.









TCO

EDIT: Someone sanded down a 780 Backplate in the Forums and Polished it to a mirror finish... I saw it around here, Anyone can link me to it?


----------



## DreamTheatrics

Been on a test bench for a couple years now and am beginning to miss building in a case. Maybe I'll just turn it on it's side and put a box over it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i prefer fittings over bends, always have and probably always will.
> 
> #fittingsmasterrace


For me,its a mix of both.

All bends looks crap and all fittings looks lazy.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreamTheatrics*
> 
> Been on a test bench for a couple years now and am beginning to miss building in a case. Maybe I'll just turn it on it's side and put a box over it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Shorten the tubing and put an acrylic box around it. It would look pretty good.


----------



## DreamTheatrics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Shorten the tubing and put an acrylic box around it. It would look pretty good.


That would look good! The reason I have the tubing that long is that it makes it very easy to drain the loop. I just take off the CPU block and take out the entire GPU and can move them away from the computer and drain like that. It makes draining very easy and fast.

I could do something with that removable MOBO tray...


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> I made it back from my Trip in one Piece! Going to the P.O. Box to see if i've gotten a backplate or anything for the WB installation on this 780 Sc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda missed you guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Someone sanded down a 780 Backplate in the Forums and Polished it to a mirror finish... I saw it around here, Anyone can link me to it?


That looks delicious, dude! I'd probably rather eat the aluminum than drink the liquid inside too.









EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For me,its a mix of both.
> 
> All bends looks crap and all fittings looks lazy.


This cracked me up too much. You live up to your name, sir!


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That looks delicious, dude! I'd probably rather eat the aluminum than drink the liquid inside too.


It would probably be much safer to eat the aluminum...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i prefer fittings over bends, always have and probably always will.
> 
> #fittingsmasterrace


Sick brah!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> I made it back from my Trip in one Piece! Going to the P.O. Box to see if i've gotten a backplate or anything for the WB installation on this 780 Sc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda missed you guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Someone sanded down a 780 Backplate in the Forums and Polished it to a mirror finish... I saw it around here, Anyone can link me to it?


The Can-eating One








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For me,its a mix of both.
> 
> All bends looks crap and all fittings looks lazy.


lol







good one


----------



## TheCautiousOne

It's good to be back everyone, Now!! I got the Tube Res Insert by EK







Guess I should have figured. that I needed this instead of the Aquapipe.




TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> It would probably be much safer to eat the aluminum...


My thoughts exactly!


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For me,its a mix of both.
> 
> All bends looks crap and all fittings looks lazy.


Yup!!... I go all the way along with Neg on this one, The Having it mixed personally to what ever looks the most pleasing & correct in that particular build e.t.c..









Nam...


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Using fittings will give you more places for it to leak from as well as increase the cost of the build. Make sure you go with something that has at least two o-rings to help prevent leaks and shifting.
> That's a matter of opinion. I think it's mainly based on the build at hand on what looks better. Some builds will look great with fittings instead of bends. I used fittings instead of bends in my Parvum build and personally think it looks great. I know that @snef has done a lot of builds with fittings instead of bends as well.


Ya. If you use fittings it looks a little cleaner because it's really easy to make the bends get a kink or something while you're bending if you're new. I rebuilt my rig several times to accommodate new parts and the last few times was with acrylic. It's still difficult for me to bend with 0 diameter change throughout. My bends aren't squashed but you definitely notice they're not constant diameter.

One of the best things about acrylic is that 12" OD fits real snug inside 7/16 x 5/8 tubing so you can combine the two as long as you clamp the joint down. This gives you rigidity when you need it and flexibility when you want. Also bitspower rigid compressions are as low as $5 each.

However right angle fittings are much easier to deal with. They're also much more expensive though. Both builds can look good potentially


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I am going to put this pump together now









TCO


----------



## SlvrDragon50

You missed a spot TCO!

JK







Looks great!


----------



## wermad

Man, there's so much dedication (and satisfaction????) for removing the frost on the EK csq stuff. I've already seen some folks polish off the engraved circles! Wonder if xspc still makes the clear plexi ddc top


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Man, there's so much dedication (and satisfaction????) for removing the frost on the EK csq stuff. I've already seen some folks polish off the engraved circles! Wonder if xspc still makes the clear plexi ddc top


I Love the Circles Werm! I just don't like the frost. What's the point of having coloured fluid if I can't see it through glass?

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Trying to come up with a good fan hub vinil sticker for the AP15 on Grey Matter. First pic is how they look now. Thoughts?






BTW in 2 or 3 days the loop should be up and running. Thread will be updated with tons of pics soon. Just waiting for last minute parts arriving tomorrow to finish the loop.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Two Enemies/ Together









TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Trying to come up with a good fan hub vinil sticker for the AP15 on Grey Matter. First pic is how they look now. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW in 2 or 3 days the loop should be up and running. Thread will be updated with tons of pics soon. Just waiting for last minute parts arriving tomorrow to finish the loop.


No offense but they could do with a lot more work.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Trying to come up with a good fan hub vinil sticker for the AP15 on Grey Matter. First pic is how they look now. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW in 2 or 3 days the loop should be up and running. Thread will be updated with tons of pics soon. Just waiting for last minute parts arriving tomorrow to finish the loop.


That's a great idea! I like the bottom one the most!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> No offense but they could do with a lot more work.


none taken really but on the other hand constructive feedback will be much appreciated. Can you elaborate on what you mean by "a lot more work"


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Two Enemies/ Together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I gotta say I like the bitspower heatsink better than the ek wish I didn't cheap out when I bought my heatsink for my ddc as I didn't want to have to buy the feet. Bitspower should include he feet


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Using fittings will give you more places for it to leak from as well as increase the cost of the build. Make sure you go with something that has at least two o-rings to help prevent leaks and shifting.
> That's a matter of opinion. I think it's mainly based on the build at hand on what looks better. Some builds will look great with fittings instead of bends. I used fittings instead of bends in my Parvum build and personally think it looks great. I know that @snef has done a lot of builds with fittings instead of bends as well.


So avoid this fitting as it only has one o-ring?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-black-sparkle-enhance-90-degree-dual-multi-link-adapter.html

What kind of setup is Stef using in his Icy Blue Angel build? It looks like he's using bigger fittings, but I can't find them. Do I have to make my own using a 90° and two normal fittings? Would you do me a favour and provide a link? Bitspower's naming scheme confuses the fudge out of me.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I think in the R40 it would be good to go with bends or a mixture of the two. The case design lends itself more towards bends in my mind because of the aesthetics of it.


Nice one. Yeah, the R40 is kinda curved so tube bending would fit that design.

What do you think to soft tubing? When it's done well, I actually prefer it. So far, though, I can't come up with a design I like that hasn't already been done.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> none taken really but on the other hand constructive feedback will be much appreciated. Can you elaborate on what you mean by "a lot more work"


Look for a nicer more clean font that fits the themes.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Look for a nicer more clean font that fits the themes.


yep, you and @guitarhero23 made the same point and I agree. Appreciate the comment thank you









More possibilities on the build log so as to not pollute the thread and *Magoo* is unleashed on me


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Two Enemies/ Together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I ended up w/ BP ram plates mated to the EK csq acetal monarch blocks. EK was oos, and since both were made for the same type of block, took a risk and it matched!.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I ended up w/ BP ram plates mated to the EK csq acetal monarch blocks. EK was oos, and since both were made for the same type of block, took a risk and it matched!.


You and I live dangerously my Friend.

Mr. Werm

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Trying to come up with a good fan hub vinil sticker for the AP15 on Grey Matter. First pic is how they look now. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW in 2 or 3 days the loop should be up and running. Thread will be updated with tons of pics soon. Just waiting for last minute parts arriving tomorrow to finish the loop.


Spacing is all wrong,change the font too.

Also....its now the D1225C12B5AZ-00...not AP15.

Could you not work the nidec servo logo into it? Maybe a greyscale version?

I want 3 G1238B12BAZP-00's very much...and have done for some time.....

I mean...look at them....



The 4+ amp load and 6000 rpm full bore is a little alarming but they look sooooo very cool. They start at 1100 rpm with PWM tho.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spacing is all wrong,change the font too.
> 
> Also....its now the D1225C12B5AZ-00...not AP15.
> 
> Could you not work the nidec servo logo into it? Maybe a greyscale version?
> 
> I want 3 G1238B12BAZP-00's very much...and have done for some time.....
> 
> I mean...look at them....
> 
> 
> 
> The 4+ amp load and 6000 rpm full bore is a little alarming but they look sooooo very cool. They start at 1100 rpm with PWM tho.










that one I never saw before. It is a not-so-gentle-hurricane I guess. Looks like a transformers thing...Could only be better if Megan comes bundled together







Thanks for the feedback B. Point taken on spacing and font and good idea on the logo


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spacing is all wrong,change the font too.
> 
> Also....its now the D1225C12B5AZ-00...not AP15.
> 
> Could you not work the nidec servo logo into it? Maybe a greyscale version?
> 
> I want 3 G1238B12BAZP-00's very much...and have done for some time.....
> 
> I mean...look at them....
> 
> 
> 
> The 4+ amp load and 6000 rpm full bore is a little alarming but they look sooooo very cool. They start at 1100 rpm with PWM tho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that one I never saw before. It is a not-so-gentle-hurricane I guess. Looks like a transformers thing...Could only be better if Megan comes bundled together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback B. Point taken on spacing and font and good idea on the logo
Click to expand...

You could do a like for like but replace the full part number with something like GR37M4TT32AZ-00? Give it a sleeper look,subtle is always win.......for me anyway.......unless its yelolololololol.









And that venturi frame is cast Alu...not plastic. Its a porn fan...yours for £70 each.

You know they do a 92mm GT too?

Always plunder the OEM sites,you can find real gems hidden away,Laing/Xylem Thermotech are the same,they have some amazeballs pumps you just dont see.


----------



## Cyclops

Found this in an old archive. Dates back to 2012 AMD/ATI HQ LAN:



Got featured on Tom's Hardware coverage that year too:

http://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/610-8-extravalanza-lan-party-byoc.html


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could do a like for like but replace the full part number with something like GR37M4TT32AZ-00? Give it a sleeper look,subtle is always win.......for me anyway.......unless its yelolololololol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that venturi frame is cast Alu...not plastic. Its a porn fan...yours for £70 each.
> 
> You know they do a 92mm GT too?
> 
> Always plunder the OEM sites,you can find real gems hidden away,Laing/Xylem Thermotech are the same,they have some amazeballs pumps you just dont see.


where can you find 92mm GT's for sale? been looking for ages.


----------



## svictorcc

Hi!
Here's the pics of my last buid to sign the club








Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> where can you find 92mm GT's for sale? been looking for ages.


http://catalog.e-jpc.com/viewitems/fans-and-blowers/d0925c-series-brushless-dc-fans-92x25?&bc=100|1326

use as a reference to try to pinpoint other vendors...


----------



## Ceadderman

I have to say that I *reeeeaaally* like that first sticker Gabriel. It's understated looks stand out more so than the other two.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have to say that I *reeeeaaally* like that first sticker Gabriel. It's understated looks stand out more so than the other two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I like that picture too. The detail with stairs and a image of the same guy within is quite retro/noir look and I like it. I just don't known If will look good on the size of a fan sticker. Since the local shop that will print for me charges by the sheet I might as well print some in vinil to check how it will look (after I adjust the font size and location). Thks for the feedback mate







Here is another shot:


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I like that picture too. The detail with stairs and a image of the same guy within is quite retro/noir look and I like it. I just don't known If will look good on the size of a fan sticker. Since the local shop that will print for me charges by the sheet I might as well print some in vinil to check how it will look (after I adjust the font size and location). Thks for the feedback mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another shot:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Makes me think of a vinyl record sticker.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Makes me think of a vinyl record sticker.


good times...I miss all my rock vinyl records... Still another shot:


----------



## Ceadderman

That last one...









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

That new one looks good!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

If you're going to place the SERVO logo off center, just put it off to the side of the picture in the center. It looks weird and completely out of place in its current position.


----------



## Ceadderman

Or drop "brushless" half a line and put the servo logo above the "brushless" and center it up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Thanks for the feedback guys


----------



## VSG

That looks really good man









I personally wouldn't put in the model number since that makes little sense in a custom sticker with everyone knowing it as the AP-15 anyway.


----------



## derickwm

I can't say I was expecting it to be this popular, @sinnedone


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can't say I was expecting it to be this popular, @sinnedone The reddit OP didn't give credit, and when I asked him where he got it (I knew where it started) he linked to the EK Facebook.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can't say I was expecting it to be this popular, @sinnedone The reddit OP didn't give credit, and when I asked him where he got it (I knew where it started) he linked to the EK Facebook.
Click to expand...

Well we were the first... Besides OCN


----------



## 8bitjunkie

how do you guys feel about Monsoon compression fittings? do you like them or should I stay away?

looking at a deal for 12 of the 3/8IDx5/8OD and some new Primochill Advanced LRT tubing.
tubing is new , not sure if the fittings are new.

Thanks


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Well we were the first... Besides OCN


I'm not saying that its bad in anyway, it was just funny because the guy was really earnest that you guys were the OP


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> how do you guys feel about Monsoon compression fittings? do you like them or should I stay away?
> 
> looking at a deal for 12 of the 3/8IDx5/8OD and some new Primochill Advanced LRT tubing.
> tubing is new , not sure if the fittings are new.
> 
> Thanks


They're fittings. They work. They look cool. Why not?

There's just a ridiculous amount of Bitspower fanboyism here that you don't really see other companies that much.


----------



## Vintage

To be fair.... the Bitspower fittings do look like they are well-designed.

While I do really like the look of monsoon fittings, (and the fact they use standard sizing) the glued collar method they use does not inspire confidence for me. At least from my impression.

That being said, the soft tube fittings look more reliable IMO,


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Ok That is all I needed to hear, getting a pretty sweet deal on them. Thanks

any recommendations for some cheap fans to hold me over util I get some GT's. fans are the last thing I will need to get my loop going!

well until I can find a decent deal on a 780 classy block







know anyone or have one I am looking!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> how do you guys feel about Monsoon compression fittings? do you like them or should I stay away?
> 
> looking at a deal for 12 of the 3/8IDx5/8OD and some new Primochill Advanced LRT tubing.
> tubing is new , not sure if the fittings are new.
> 
> Thanks


I am using their chain-gun compression fittings. I like them.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> To be fair.... the Bitspower fittings do look like they are well-designed.
> 
> While I do really like the look of monsoon fittings, (and the fact they use standard sizing) the glued collar method they use does not inspire confidence for me. At least from my impression.
> 
> That being said, the soft tube fittings look more reliable IMO,


The Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression fittings do not use the glued collar, only the Chaingun/Free Center. I have a mix in my rig and haven't had any issues with either. The only complaint I have with the Economy series is that the nut does not cover the threads on the base. I don't think I would use them again just for that fact.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> how do you guys feel about Monsoon compression fittings? do you like them or should I stay away?
> 
> looking at a deal for 12 of the 3/8IDx5/8OD and some new Primochill Advanced LRT tubing.
> tubing is new , not sure if the fittings are new.
> 
> Thanks


I haven't used the monsoons but FYI with the LRT advanced, IME the clear is thicker than it should be. If you decide to use their clear you might have a hard time with the compressions.

I have a collection of white lengths in 3/8x1/2 and clear in 3/8x1/2 and 3/8x5/8". The white is softer and thinner walled than the similarly sized clear tube. Most importantly, my EK and Alphacool compression fittings have no problem with the white but it's pretty hard to use them with the clear tubing. They seal and I can't pull the tube out of the fitting but it takes a lot of force to get the fitting cap ~1/3 of the down the threads.

You can stick the tube ends in hot water to help make it softer, or snug them up little by little over time, but if you're very particular about the threads showing and you're using clear tube, ya might want to investigate which fittings are the loosest fit


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I don't know about the acrylic fittings, but Monsoon soft compressions are perfectly fine.

They actually have better hydraulics than other fittings if you really want to nitpick at those details.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> To be fair.... the Bitspower fittings do look like they are well-designed.
> 
> While I do really like the look of monsoon fittings, (and the fact they use standard sizing) the glued collar method they use does not inspire confidence for me. At least from my impression.
> 
> That being said, the soft tube fittings look more reliable IMO,
> 
> 
> 
> The Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression fittings do not use the glued collar, only the Chaingun/Free Center. I have a mix in my rig and haven't had any issues with either. The only complaint I have with the Economy series is that the nut does not cover the threads on the base. I don't think I would use them again just for that fact.
Click to expand...

I have both Chaingun and Economies. They're quite nice.

I had this same issue with the short collar as you, but it was only one of 12 that didn't go all the way to the end of the thread. I contacted PPCs within 3 days of receipt of order and they contacted Monsoon about the issue and shipped me a replacement collar free of charge. If you ran/run into this issue, I suggest contacting your vendor and ask them if there is anything they can do to correct it. I let them know that this build is going to PDXLan an that I couldn't show my system with something so glaring sticking out like a sore thumb. They did a great job by me fixing it. And because they did they're getting all my watercooling business for this build.









These fittings though









~Ceadder


----------



## 8bitjunkie

well I think I am just going to bite on the fittings for now as I am not felling the white tubing.

$40 for 12 fittings black with chrome centers. give me some spares for when I add more rads and my gpu.

still wondering on some cheapo fans till hold be over until I can fund some GTs. looking at $5 and under as these will be throw a ways at some point.


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> well I think I am just going to bite on the fittings for now as I am not felling the white tubing.
> 
> $40 for 12 fittings black with chrome centers. give me some spares for when I add more rads and my gpu.
> 
> still wondering on some cheapo fans till hold be over until I can fund some GTs. looking at $5 and under as these will be throw a ways at some point.


I'm using them now along with their 90 and 45 adapters. They are excellent fittings and I can't recommend them enough. The included wrench to tighten and loosen them is a godsend.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yate Loon fans are excellent *cheap* $5 Radiator fans. I've been using them since I started with my old h50 in both Pull and Push Pull setups in my 932. They're so cheap it's ridiculous and the work well. I use High Speed models and if they're too loud (can be at times) I have them on my Sunbeam Rheostat 3 channel which I also got cheap. Can't find it anymore I imagine but that's a solid performing controller. I get my YLs at Performance PCs. I iggy the sleeving and the molex service and they're ~$5 ea before shipping.









~Ceadder


----------



## SlvrDragon50

$40 for 12 is a fantastic deal.

I went with white Monsoons myself.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shiny Reds and Blacks here. Every Black port gets Red and Red ports get Black.









Monsoon White PETG to follow.









~Ceadder


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yate Loon fans are excellent *cheap* $5 Radiator fans. I've been using them since I started with my old h50 in both Pull and Push Pull setups in my 932. They're so cheap it's ridiculous and the work well. I use High Speed models and if they're too loud (can be at times) I have them on my Sunbeam Rheostat 3 channel which I also got cheap. Can't find it anymore I imagine but that's a solid performing controller. I get my YLs at Performance PCs. I iggy the sleeving and the molex service and they're ~$5 ea before shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks I heard a lot about the yate loons, I knew they were cheap but not that cheap. going to get those to hold be over. I still have my heart set on GT's .

have the 2150 rpm GT on my 212+ for almost 4 years now and it has been awesome. keep my cpu cool even at 4.8ghz. I do have a decnt 3570k tho only need 1.275v at 4.8









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> $40 for 12 is a fantastic deal.
> 
> I went with white Monsoons myself.


going to grab them for sure , just working out the deal now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I'm using them now along with their 90 and 45 adapters. They are excellent fittings and I can't recommend them enough. The included wrench to tighten and loosen them is a godsend.


might get his 45 and 90s also that way when I expand my loop I have them.


----------



## Ceadderman

No problem. I'm going with nine EK Vardars in 1450rpm pwm flavor for this mod. They perform really well compared with GT which *are* better. I came really close to snagging nine AP14s for less but dude sold all 18 of his before I could pull the trigger. Ah well, se la vie it's Vardars for me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kritikill

So EK has a link to a Twitch feed where they are doing a live WC build. They are building a 3 Titan X and CPU WC PC featuring EK Waterblocks. I only see one 360 thin rad (maybe Black Ice Nemesis).Aren't the temps going to be horrendous?


----------



## wigz81

When is the build supposed to be?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I can't say I was expecting it to be this popular, @sinnedone
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol

Thats not even the color I'll be going with. Its funny to see people arguing about it so passionately.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> So EK has a link to a Twitch feed where they are doing a live WC build. They are building a 3 Titan X and CPU WC PC featuring EK Waterblocks. I only see one 360 thin rad (maybe Black Ice Nemesis).Aren't the temps going to be horrendous?


I have a feeling that's not all they're using. Link?


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wigz81*
> 
> When is the build supposed to be?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I have a feeling that's not all they're using. Link?


Its a rebroadcast. Guess it happened today. Not sure, just saw the link on EK's FB.
http://www.twitch.tv/kittyplaysgames


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> So EK has a link to a Twitch feed where they are doing a live WC build. They are building a 3 Titan X and CPU WC PC featuring EK Waterblocks. I only see one 360 thin rad (maybe Black Ice Nemesis).Aren't the temps going to be horrendous?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a feeling that's not all they're using. Link?
Click to expand...

That "stealth" Rad is likely their SE 360 and not HWLabs.









~Ceadder


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> So avoid this fitting as it only has one o-ring?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-black-sparkle-enhance-90-degree-dual-multi-link-adapter.html
> 
> What kind of setup is Stef using in his Icy Blue Angel build? It looks like he's using bigger fittings, but I can't find them. Do I have to make my own using a 90° and two normal fittings? Would you do me a favour and provide a link? Bitspower's naming scheme confuses the fudge out of me.
> 
> 
> Nice one. Yeah, the R40 is kinda curved so tube bending would fit that design.
> 
> What do you think to soft tubing? When it's done well, I actually prefer it. So far, though, I can't come up with a design I like that hasn't already been done.


Those fittings actually have three o-rings in them. I used them in my build, and they are great. I would avoid the C48s, they only have one o-ring, from Bitspower. Unless it's for a GPU link that will not move.

I'm pretty sure from the look that he used the C47s from bitspower. The 90s that he used have the threaded ports for the fittings. The nice thing with performance is you get 2 C47s in a set when you order them.


----------



## Wirerat

I am getting noticably better flow and slightly better temps using a 10w DDC with custom top in my sons loop instead of the D5 vario at setting 4 (5 is too loud to be acceptable).

This is suprising to me. Its the first time I directly compared them. I have preferred the ddc pumps due to looks/size but I thought I was proprobably sacrificing some flow.

So many suggests the D5 like its the absolute best or only solution.

I had taken notice that a lot of the extreme high end builds in this thread are using ddc pumps. I see why now.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Those fittings actually have three o-rings in them. I used them in my build, and they are great. I would avoid the C48s, they only have one o-ring, from Bitspower. Unless it's for a GPU link that will not move.
> 
> I'm pretty sure from the look that he used the C47s from bitspower. The 90s that he used have the threaded ports for the fittings. The nice thing with performance is you get 2 C47s in a set when you order them.


Oh, sweet. They're only a tenner and look really nice. I found the C47's. I'll avoid the C48's since I won't be SLI'ing.


----------



## emsj86

For this that work and use acrylic panels for there rig. Where our you getting your acrylic from. Preferably something in the USA thanks


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have both Chaingun and Economies. They're quite nice.
> 
> I had this same issue with the short collar as you, but it was only one of 12 that didn't go all the way to the end of the thread. I contacted PPCs within 3 days of receipt of order and they contacted Monsoon about the issue and shipped me a replacement collar free of charge. If you ran/run into this issue, I suggest contacting your vendor and ask them if there is anything they can do to correct it. I let them know that this build is going to PDXLan an that I couldn't show my system with something so glaring sticking out like a sore thumb. They did a great job by me fixing it. And because they did they're getting all my watercooling business for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These fittings though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm not sure but I assume those are primochill.
Just be aware that these fittings are 12.7 od and only work with primochill tubing. They don't work for bitspower 12mm od tubing


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Oh, sweet. They're only a tenner and look really nice. I found the C47's. I'll avoid the C48's since I won't be SLI'ing.


You can get those but they're expensive. I just went with the shining silver compression fittings that have two o rings. They're $6 a piece


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I am getting noticably better flow and slightly better temps using a 10w DDC with custom top in my sons loop instead of the D5 vario at setting 4 (5 is too loud to be acceptable).
> 
> This is suprising to me. Its the first time I directly compared them. I have preferred the ddc pumps due to looks/size but I thought I was proprobably sacrificing some flow.
> 
> So many suggests the D5 like its the absolute best or only solution.
> 
> I had taken notice that a lot of the extreme high end builds in this thread are using ddc pumps. I see why now.


I love to hear things like this! I have used one D5 in my first build ( came with the XSPC 270 Combo) but have used nothing but ddc due to the Look!!


Spoiler: Bitspower and EK DDC!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Oh, sweet. They're only a tenner and look really nice. I found the C47's. I'll avoid the C48's since I won't be SLI'ing.


I used only C47s in my Division build and I love them so Much! But let me tell you, they are very tight, don't cut a very short tube and expect to get it out.





TCO


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> You can get those but they're expensive. I just went with the shining silver compression fittings that have two o rings. They're $6 a piece


Have you got a link for those?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I love to hear things like this! I have used one D5 in my first build ( came with the XSPC 270 Combo) but have used nothing but ddc due to the Look!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Bitspower and EK DDC!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used only C47s in my Division build and I love them so Much! But let me tell you, they are very tight, don't cut a very short tube and expect to get it out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


What is that right-angled piece? Is it this with two C47's?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Have you got a link for those?
> What is that right-angled piece? Is it this with two C47's?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-bitspower-g1-4-silver-shining-enhance-multi-link-for-acrylic-tube-od-12mm.html

Same two o rings that are in the non compression fittings. I would not advise you get anything that isn't a double o ring fitting for rigid tubes.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-bitspower-g1-4-silver-shining-enhance-multi-link-for-acrylic-tube-od-12mm.html
> 
> Same two o rings that are in the non compression fittings. I would not advise you get anything that isn't a double o ring fitting for rigid tubes.


Cheers. I thought it was that, but I wanted to be sure. I hate asking all these petty questions, but I feel like Bitspower has its own language you have to learn.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Cheers. I thought it was that, but I wanted to be sure. I hate asking all these petty questions, but I feel like Bitspower has its own language you have to learn.


Yea I mean with most tubing it's not a problem but with rigid tubing you just gotta be careful not to buy the wrong thing. And it's kinda a hassle to have to return things.

Bitspower is a really good brand but there is a premium. I'm not a big fan of primochill myself but I don't knock them. I just bought some tubing from them and it wasn't to spec. Jayztwocents mentioned this too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Have you got a link for those?
> What is that right-angled piece? Is it this with two C47's?


What you linked is Correct.









TCO


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> :-D Quad K|ngp|ns. I just have the lights disabled.. it makes for a pretty light show lol


4 way. Quad is when you use 2 gpus that are dual gpu's


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> 4 way. Quad is when you use 2 gpus that are dual gpu's


Anything to substantiate that the term is limited like that?

Quote:


> Quad SLI means 4gpus same as Quad Crossfire. So you can put 2 dual gpu graphics cards such as the gtx 690 together...or two 7990s...or four GTX 760s etc....SLI being nvidias multi GPU solution, and crossfire AMDs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I am getting noticably better flow and slightly better temps using a 10w DDC with custom top in my sons loop instead of the D5 vario at setting 4 (5 is too loud to be acceptable).
> 
> This is suprising to me. Its the first time I directly compared them. I have preferred the ddc pumps due to looks/size but I thought I was proprobably sacrificing some flow.
> 
> So many suggests the D5 like its the absolute best or only solution.
> 
> I had taken notice that a *lot of the extreme high end builds in this thread are using ddc pumps.* I see why now.


They really are not....

D5's are much quieter,more reliable (10w excepted) and are watercooled. They are easily my go to pump.

And without a flow meter,visual comparisons dont cut it.

Thats said,DDC's are not a bad pump,they just dont fully meet my criteria in my pump choices.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

If B NEGATIVE says that, it must be true. All hail our water cooling god









Another D5 lover here... It seems like the DDC has been surging in popularity though. Last year when I was active here, the DDC wasn't that popular, and everyone was buying D5s.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> If B NEGATIVE says that, it must be true. All hail our water cooling god
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another D5 lover here... It seems like the DDC has been surging in popularity though. Last year when I was active here, the DDC wasn't that popular, and everyone was buying D5s.


My only Reason for Choosing DDC when I build is Looks. And I know that pump wise, it works and moves water the way I need it to.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> If B NEGATIVE says that, it must be true. All hail our water cooling god
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another D5 lover here... It seems like the DDC has been surging in popularity though. Last year when I was active here, the DDC wasn't that popular, and everyone was buying D5s.


Its just an opinion and im no God.

Just an enthusiast.

PWM DDC's are good,10w DDC's are good....18w DDC's are garbage.

The silence a D5 brings over a DDC is very noticable.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Haha, that's interesting..

I find the DDC to look quite ugly. I dunno why, I just love the cylindrical look of the D5.

And pshhhh. With all those builds B NEGATIVE. Stop being so modest.


----------



## sdmf74

I have always heard about the reliability and longevity of D5's and I hope its true. My DDC just died after 11 months


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Haha, that's interesting..
> 
> I find the DDC to look quite ugly. I dunno why, I just love the *cylindrical look of the D5.*
> 
> And pshhhh. With all those builds B NEGATIVE. Stop being so modest.


That would be the Difference.









(And Noise for some)

TCO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I have always heard about the reliability and longevity of D5's and I hope its true. My DDC just died after 11 months


Why Did it die? Did you take it apart? Heat perhaps?


----------



## TGBM

Just uploaded some near final pictures of my Parvum Silver Bolts build as well as some news!! Go check it out here as I don't want to spam this thread with lots of pictures!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They really are not....
> 
> D5's are much quieter,more reliable (10w excepted) and are watercooled. They are easily my go to pump.
> 
> And without a flow meter,visual comparisons dont cut it.
> 
> Thats said,DDC's are not a bad pump,they just dont fully meet my criteria in my pump choices.


There are many that feel that way. D5 are definitely great pumps. But I am learning a few things that make ddc a better pump for my needs.

My backup ddc pump is showing better cpu/gpu temps than my D5 did in phat bits sig rig.

I hooked the D5 up yesterday to test it without a radiator. Just the pump and large 240mm res at setting 4. Water was 22c before turning on the pump and the water temp reached 31c before it stabilized. That is heat just from the pump.

I was under the assumption the heat a D5 would add was a negligible amount. Maybe it is at a lower settings or withba lot of rad space but it definitely can effect water temps.

You are right I cannot measure flow without a gauge.

I can measure water temp though using my digital thermometer. I plan to do some direct comparisons of water temp only this weekend with each pump installed in the same system.

Im leaning towards permanently installing the ddc in place of the d5 though.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea I mean with most tubing it's not a problem but with rigid tubing you just gotta be careful not to buy the wrong thing. And it's kinda a hassle to have to return things.
> 
> Bitspower is a really good brand but there is a premium. I'm not a big fan of primochill myself but I don't knock them. I just bought some tubing from them and it wasn't to spec. Jayztwocents mentioned this too.


I just love the looks of Bitspower and EK. If EK offered a greater variety of fittings, I would go with them all the time as they are based in the EU so the prices will be the best for me.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I have always heard about the reliability and longevity of D5's and I hope its true. My DDC just died after 11 months


My current D5 vario pump has been running @5 for at least two years now. Running silently too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Just uploaded some near final pictures of my Parvum Silver Bolts build as well as some news!! Go check it out here as I don't want to spam this thread with lots of pictures!


This is "OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery" thread. You're supposed to spam with watercooling pictures here.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> There are many that feel that way. D5 are definitely great pumps. But I am learning a few things that make ddc a better pump for my needs.
> 
> My backup ddc pump is showing better cpu/gpu temps than my D5 did in phat bits sig rig.
> 
> I hooked the D5 up yesterday to test it without a radiator. Just the pump and large 240mm res at setting 4. Water was 22c before turning on the pump and the water temp reached 31c before it stabilized. That is heat just from the pump.
> 
> I was under the assumption the heat a D5 would add was a negligible amount. Maybe it is at a lower settings or withba lot of rad space but it definitely can effect water temps.
> 
> You are right I cannot measure flow without a gauge.
> 
> I can measure water temp though using my digital thermometer. I plan to do some direct comparisons of water temp only this weekend with each pump installed in the same system.
> 
> Im leaning towards permanently installing the ddc in place of the d5 though.


Something has to be wrong with that D5. All the pump tests have shown that the DDC puts far more heat into the loop than the D5.


----------



## By-Tor

I'm still using my Swiftech MCP355 I bought back in 2008 and never and issue. I haven't heard any noise from it in all this time and it does a great job.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its just an opinion and im no God.
> 
> Just an enthusiast.
> 
> PWM DDC's are good,10w DDC's are good....18w DDC's are garbage.
> 
> The silence a D5 brings over a DDC is very noticable.


In B Negative we trust.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Something has to be wrong with that D5. All the pump tests have shown that the DDC puts far more heat into the loop than the D5.


maybe it is. My temps are lower on the gpu and cpu with the ddc pump too but 4-5c is not a huge delta. I mean an air bubble that was stuck when d5 is was installed could be the culprit there.

Im going to do some simple water temp tests with both pumps when I install the new res.

I wanna see water temps with pump only no load (computer off) and under load.

If its faulty I guess that would explain what im seeing so far though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I have always heard about the reliability and longevity of D5's and I hope its true. My DDC just died after 11 months


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> maybe it is. My temps are lower on the gpu and cpu with the ddc pump too but 4-5c is not a huge delta. I mesn an air bubble that was stuck when d5 is was installed could be the culprit there.
> 
> Im going to do some simple water temp tests with both pumps when I install the new res.
> 
> I wanna see water temps wity pump only no load (computer off) and under load.
> 
> If its faulty I guess that would explain what im seeing so far though.


Lets say both pumps (D5 and DDC) are working perfect with no air bubbles and the like, does anyone know what the Heat dump from either pump will be exactly?

I mean are we talking about a 1-5C difference between both pumps?

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> 4 way. Quad is when you use 2 gpus that are dual gpu's
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Anything to substantiate that the term is limited like that?
Click to expand...

There's always confusion. The way I see it 4-way/quad can be said to four discrete cards and Quad can be referencing to two dual-gpu cards. The confusion lies when someone says they have 4-way with two dual-gpu cards. So, single cards are like tomatoes, its can be a fruit or a veggie. Dual gpu cards, they;re just veggies (quad)









I hope I didn't add more confusion to the mix







.


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I'm still using my Swiftech MCP355 I bought back in 2008 and never and issue. I haven't heard any noise from it in all this time and it does a great job.


I've also had a MCP355 that I bought used in 2009 that's still running perfectly and I just sold it for $35. It's a really reliable pump, albeit a little loud, hence my MCP35X purchase.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I think Martin had a test, but I can't find it.
Quote:


> Anyhow, back on topic. I don't know that the heat is really an issue for the pumps or not, but I've never really liked how hot the DDCs get in comparison to the D5s. Those heatsinks look nice!


That is a quote from Martin on another forum.

I know most of the heat is concentrated in the pump which is why some DDCs had melting problems.

Here is a review showing the impact of a heatsink on a DDC.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?271915-Martinsliquidlab-org-Swiftech-MCP-35X-HS-DDC-Pump-Heat-Sink-Review

You see massive improvements in temperature, ~10*C. The heatsink has less effect at higher flow rates.


----------



## Wirerat

martinlab comments in this http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?271742-2-x-D5s-increase-loop-temp-interesting

That the D5 does dump more heat.
/shrug.

My personal situation, I think this showing up because I used sheet rads in my sons rig.

With better rads that +20w ish of heat wouldn't matter.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> There are many that feel that way. D5 are definitely great pumps. But I am learning a few things that make ddc a better pump for my needs.
> 
> My backup ddc pump is showing better cpu/gpu temps than my D5 did in phat bits sig rig.
> 
> I hooked the D5 up yesterday to test it without a radiator. Just the pump and large 240mm res at setting 4. Water was 22c before turning on the pump and the water temp reached 31c before it stabilized. That is heat just from the pump.
> 
> I was under the assumption the heat a D5 would add was a negligible amount. Maybe it is at a lower settings or withba lot of rad space but it definitely can effect water temps.
> 
> You are right I cannot measure flow without a gauge.
> 
> I can measure water temp though using my digital thermometer. I plan to do some direct comparisons of water temp only this weekend with each pump installed in the same system.
> 
> Im leaning towards permanently installing the ddc in place of the d5 though.
> 
> 
> 
> Something has to be wrong with that D5. All the pump tests have shown that the DDC puts far more heat into the loop than the D5.
Click to expand...

Except the DDC puts almost no heat into the loop,its aircooled......

The D5 is watercooled.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Rather have a watercooled pump that is more reliable then air cooled that wont last as long.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Rather have a watercooled pump that is more reliable then air cooled that wont last as long.


that is why we use the heatsinks.

I agree with your logic too. D5s are great pumps. I just see slightly better temps and already own both pumps. Might as well go with whats better.

Trading 5c to make it more quiet is something many would prefer too.


----------



## sinnedone

Im partial to the compact size and looks of the ddc. In particular the mcp35x since ive had no issues with it. Not to mention how super sexy it looks with EK heatsink and bitspower top.


















That being said with a larger case i would also not mind going D5.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Im partial to the compact size and looks of the ddc. In particular the mcp35x since ive had no issues with it. Not to mention how super sexy it looks with EK heatsink and bitspower top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That being said with a larger case i would also not mind going D5.


Ek Heatsind and Bitspower Mod Top kit.







I am diggin it.

TCO


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ek Heatsind and Bitspower Mod Top kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am diggin it.
> 
> TCO


I was so close to getting the EK heatsink to go with my ek xres.

I am really happy with the two part bitspower housing though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I was so close to getting the EK heatsink to go with my ek xres.
> 
> I am really happy with the two part bitspower housing though.


I've done both







The Ek is nice because it is one Piece, although bitspower is the only one I could find in white without painting.


Spoiler: Ek and Bitspower Heatsinks











TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ek Heatsind and Bitspower Mod Top kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am diggin it.
> 
> TCO


Thank you bud. Not going the extra polished route as you are (love that look though







) but trying something a little different.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Murdered Out!

TCO


----------



## emsj86

pssh d5 or ddc doesn't beat my pump lol


----------



## Domler

To TCO, alpenwasser, and szeged,thank you for your advise. I think it looks awesome. Painted the pcie, ram, key bot, mem OK , and a couple red caps on the sound board. Vinyl on the pcie and sata. Painted the sata, but I didn't like the crappy job I did. So I wrapped them. Painted the armor and the WiFi module with plasti dip. I think it looks sharp. Sorry for the crappy photo, working off of my tablet till she is up and running. Thank you again.


----------



## emsj86

Looks good


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> To TCO, alpenwasser, and szeged,thank you for your advise. I think it looks awesome. Painted the pcie, ram, key bot, mem OK , and a couple red caps on the sound board. Vinyl on the pcie and sata. Painted the sata, but I didn't like the crappy job I did. So I wrapped them. Painted the armor and the WiFi module with plasti dip. I think it looks sharp. Sorry for the crappy photo, working off of my tablet till she is up and running. Thank you again.


Yours looks a tad easier because you had the Armour. Good job and if you need touch up just grab an acrylic paint brush and some craft paint!

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> To TCO, alpenwasser, and szeged,thank you for your advise. I think it looks awesome. Painted the pcie, ram, key bot, mem OK , and a couple red caps on the sound board. Vinyl on the pcie and sata. Painted the sata, but I didn't like the crappy job I did. So I wrapped them. Painted the armor and the WiFi module with plasti dip. I think it looks sharp. Sorry for the crappy photo, working off of my tablet till she is up and running. Thank you again.
> 
> 
> 
> Yours looks a tad easier because you had the Armour. Good job and if you need touch up just grab an *acrylic paint brush and some craft paint!
> *
> TCO
Click to expand...











Wash your mouth out and sit in the corner.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Oooooo snap! B Neg just handed TCO a bar of soap and some attitude!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wash your mouth out and sit in the corner.


Lol whatever.









When used correctly (ie thinned out and multiple coats) with a steady hand you can get a very good finish.

I did it on my motherboard to get to the places spray didnt reach and turned out very well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wash your mouth out and sit in the corner.


No! I will not.





I did it.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wash your mouth out and sit in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol whatever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When used correctly (ie thinned out and multiple coats) with a steady hand you can get a very good finish.
> 
> I did it on my motherboard to get to the places spray didnt reach and turned out very well.
Click to expand...

Because......Air?

If Air doesnt work then its because not enough Air.


----------



## alltheGHz

Has anyone had any experience with one of these?

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-l240-1

I really want to watercool my rig, JUST the cpu, and this seems like a pretty good kit to do so, but I'm not sure if the parts are quality, or if this is the best option. I'm really new to watercooling, so please excuse any future no0b questions.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because......Air?
> 
> If Air doesnt work then its because not enough Air.


Lol

Actually i think it was my ocd. I painted everything well put some things like caps between pcie lanes blocked paint. Thats where i came in with the paintbrush.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because......Air?
> 
> If Air doesnt work then its because not enough Air.


B neg is Just playing hard to get!

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You did a good job there,very tidy.

Now paint the caps and we have a winner.

That XSPC block is purty too...dont see many of those about


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> To TCO, alpenwasser, and szeged,thank you for your advise. I think it looks awesome. Painted the pcie, ram, key bot, mem OK , and a couple red caps on the sound board. Vinyl on the pcie and sata. Painted the sata, but I didn't like the crappy job I did. So I wrapped them. Painted the armor and the WiFi module with plasti dip. I think it looks sharp. Sorry for the crappy photo, working off of my tablet till she is up and running. Thank you again.


Nice work, looking sharp.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Lol whatever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When used correctly (ie thinned out and multiple coats) with a steady hand you can get a very good finish.
> 
> I did it on my motherboard to get to the places spray didnt reach and turned out very well.


Yeah, I used enamel model paint on mine. Thinning and multiple coats was definitely required, otherwise you could
see brush strokes like it was an impressionist painting.


----------



## sinnedone

I do have to say painting all the ram slots pcie slots would take quite a bit longer than just masking off and spray painting. Very doable, but to match the finish of a nice spray would require a very steady hand and multiple light coats (as i mentioned before) not to cake up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

But.....

air?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You did a good job there,very tidy.
> 
> Now paint the caps and we have a winner.
> 
> That XSPC block is purty too...dont see many of those about


Thank you. Ive actually been thinking about using a spray tint to tone them down but still have a little metallic look behind them. We'll see though.

And yes air is best.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Nice work, looking sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I used enamel model paint on mine. Thinning and multiple coats was definitely required, otherwise you could
> see brush strokes like it was an impressionist painting.


Definitely, those brush strokes can ruin your day real quick.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You did a good job there,very tidy.
> 
> Now paint the caps and we have a winner.
> 
> That XSPC block is purty too...dont see many of those about
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Ive actually been thinking about using a spray tint to tone them down but still have a little metallic look behind them. We'll see though.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Nice work, looking sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I used enamel model paint on mine. Thinning and multiple coats was definitely required, otherwise you could
> see brush strokes like it was an impressionist painting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Definitely, those brush strokes can your your day real quick.
Click to expand...

Look at automotive headlight tint.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Look at automotive headlight tint.


Ive got several on hand, the laziness of prep work has been my only setback. Lol


----------



## crafty615

Is there a guide to painting mobo anywhere? Because iI really want to do it to match my black/green theme i'm going for but I don't trust myself just going straight for it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Is there a guide to painting mobo anywhere? Because iI really want to do it to match my black/green theme i'm going for but I don't trust myself just going straight for it


Since B Neg seems to have all this knowledge of Air

I elect Him!

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Well not everyone has a nice airbrush, and while spray cans can do almost a good a job the reality of it is that its all in the prep work.


----------



## DarthBaggins

You'd be surprised what you can do with a quality rattle can


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I am down to use crap stuff and then fix it because who doesn't like spending money fixing things?










TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Well not everyone has a nice airbrush, and while spray cans can do almost a good a job the reality of it is that its all in the prep work.


Yup.

I wouldnt use a rattle can,too large a spray pattern


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup.
> 
> I wouldnt use a rattle can,too large a spray pattern


Everything you wouldn't do. We did.

That's Classic.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Dependant on the can tips you use - Montana Paints makes different caps for their cans


----------



## sinnedone

Most rattle cans do have a way to large and heavy spray pattern. There are better nozzles than others so youd have to kow what your looking for.

Theres a reason its called an "airbrush" and because of the fine spray pattern you can get out of it.

Dont be discouraged in using a good ole rattle can though. With some practice and some skill you can get very good results. I've painted car front ends/bumpers/fenders etc with rattle cans and unless I said something, you'd never know the difference. Lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Dependant on the can tips you use - Montana Paints makes different caps for their cans


Thank you for that. Might try them out sometime.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

Anyone know where I can get plastic motherboard standoffs for really cheap?

Found someone local that will be able to give me some.

Cheers,


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now I do have to say Montana's paint line is above your standard companies as they cater normally to Graffiti Artist, which is why the have a variety of tips/nozzles available.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

so I just got my pump in and the guy painted the housing(I did know about this) put obviously he was not smart enough to take the pump out of the housing. also hand painted the damn thing lol, looks like model paint.

so here is the pump it has little bits of paint on it, will this affect anything. is there any safe way to clean it? I am tempted to use a rag with a little paint thinner. but afraid of it having a bad reaction with the rubber piece.

I have no way to test it just yet waiting on other parts of my loop to come in


----------



## 1Quickchic

I would probably want to clean it myself, but your right about using thinner, as it very well can cause damage to the rubber by breaking it down. I would use some acrysol as it isn't nearly as harsh to surfaces or materials. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=acrysol&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=4961628934&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4q9g3gvia4_e
Acrysol is used in the automotive paint field to clean fiberglass, and urethane parts as well as other parts that would be other sensitive to much harsher chemicals. I recommend because I have had experience with it as well.


----------



## Domler

Definitely all in the prep work. I'll try an airbrush next time. To many times I could have used one. My father in-law kept telling to get one. Yes the armor can cover up mistakes, but it also covered up 90 percent of the hard work I spent going blind doing it. All in all, I'm happy with it. ☺ Any tips for the ek ram modules? Got two done,and two more to go. Lining the up is a pain.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> 4 way. Quad is when you use 2 gpus that are dual gpu's


Dictionary says: quad [kwod]
adjective
1.
*designating or comprising four* persons or *things*..

Quad means 4 things.. things being GPUs LOL. I wonder if I can fit 4 people into this case...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Anything to substantiate that the term is limited like that?


maybe the box from ASUS.. It says SLi or Quad SLi.. 3 way and 4 way not supported (z97 series and such...)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You could also use T Cut or similar.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Quickchic*
> 
> I would probably want to clean it myself, but your right about using thinner, as it very well can cause damage to the rubber by breaking it down. I would use some acrysol as it isn't nearly as harsh to surfaces or materials. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=acrysol&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=4961628934&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4q9g3gvia4_e
> Acrysol is used in the automotive paint field to clean fiberglass, and urethane parts as well as other parts that would be other sensitive to much harsher chemicals. I recommend because I have had experience with it as well.


got the pump clean no problem







the housing needs to be repainted might buy a heatsink for it after I can confirm it works ***.

he also sleeved the cables really bad brought the sleeving all the way to the contact points so the housing does not fit on right.

I'll send some pics of the sleeving job and the "sweet" paint job later, along with my cleaning job on the pump!

I also got my EK evo supremacy cpu block today and it looks mint


----------



## 1Quickchic

right on , anytime I see someone "try" their best to make something look nicer (they don't know what they are doing) it usually makes me want to cringe. like sleeving wires and using tape instead of heat shrink


----------



## Domler

I'm using the block to help line up and checking after each install. First two felt like an hour.


----------



## Recr3ational

Yo guys,
I was wondering if there's enough room to shove a 360mm rad at the back of the 900D (where the PSU goes?) As well as a normal sized PSU? I was thinking about shoving a 480 plus a 360 down there?

Although, thinking about it. It's going to be useless with the amount of hot air that's going to be dumped there.. Hmm.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That would be the Difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And Noise for some)
> 
> TCO
> Why Did it die? Did you take it apart? Heat perhaps?


I wish I knew, I never took it apart and it was mounted right above a fan so no heat issues & it was attached just below an inline reservoir.

@ 8bitjunkie - I would try using goof off to clean the paint off your pump, That stuff actually works really good. Of course read the label but I think it should be safe on the rubber.

edit: Sorry just seen the post where you got it cleaned


----------



## Kranik

Hey guys, quick question that I might already know the answer to. I'm wrapping up a build in the D Frame Mini and it's looking like the cleanest way to go from the radiator to the pump inlet is a 90° degree fitting. I seem to recall that that is frowned upon. Am I risking anything by doing so?

Potato picture to keep the gallery theme going.


----------



## derickwm

Quakecon goodies 










Waterblocks inbound Monday...


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quakecon goodies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblocks inbound Monday...


On Tuesday you can send me one. It'll prevent it from suffering a premature death...


----------



## jdstock76

I'll ask here also .... Any word on when EK will have the blocks for the 980ti G1?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have both Chaingun and Economies. They're quite nice.
> 
> I had this same issue with the short collar as you, but it was only one of 12 that didn't go all the way to the end of the thread. I contacted PPCs within 3 days of receipt of order and they contacted Monsoon about the issue and shipped me a replacement collar free of charge. If you ran/run into this issue, I suggest contacting your vendor and ask them if there is anything they can do to correct it. I let them know that this build is going to PDXLan an that I couldn't show my system with something so glaring sticking out like a sore thumb. They did a great job by me fixing it. And because they did they're getting all my watercooling business for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These fittings though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure but I assume those are primochill.
> Just be aware that these fittings are 12.7 od and only work with primochill tubing. They don't work for bitspower 12mm od tubing
Click to expand...

Well if someone switched a PrimoChill fitting into my box of Monsoons...









...but I know they didn't so me an PPCs are kewl.









~Ceadder


----------



## 8bitjunkie

well here is the other pics for the pump I bought with custom paint and sleeving. I still did get a decent deal on it , just need some TLC and gives me some more modding to do! paint needs no be taking care of and rewired.

speaking of modding this is going to be a stealth build in my windowless r4 case. 3 rads with my classy 780ti and sure my 3570k will be sitting around 5ghz (does 4.8 on air at 1.3v)

before

after

the nice wiring job that stops the pump from fully sitting in the housing

and the paint job

at least it came with a nice top!


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question that I might already know the answer to. I'm wrapping up a build in the D Frame Mini and it's looking like the cleanest way to go from the radiator to the pump inlet is a 90° degree fitting. I seem to recall that that is frowned upon. Am I risking anything by doing so?
> 
> Potato picture to keep the gallery theme going.


My s8 with ek d5 has a 90 on the outlet port of the pump and I have no issues I heard inlet is another story !


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quakecon goodies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblocks inbound Monday...

















































Going in the Phanteks?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quakecon goodies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblocks inbound Monday...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going in the Phanteks?
Click to expand...

One is (vertically on an extender to show off the block), the other two are going in the In Win 909.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> well here is the other pics for the pump I bought with custom paint and sleeving. I still did get a decent deal on it , just need some TLC and gives me some more modding to do! paint needs no be taking care of and rewired.
> 
> speaking of modding this is going to be a stealth build in my windowless r4 case. 3 rads with my classy 780ti and sure my 3570k will be sitting around 5ghz (does 4.8 on air at 1.3v)
> 
> before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after
> 
> the nice wiring job that stops the pump from fully sitting in the housing
> 
> and the paint job
> 
> at least it came with a nice top!


I just cringe a bit with that paint job.

Heck i cant do better, but reminds me to do a better job painting next time


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> My s8 with ek d5 has a 90 on the outlet port of the pump and I have no issues I heard inlet is another story !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yea, I've got the same setup with a 90° on the out. I was thinking a dual rotary 90° from bitspower would avoid some of the pitfalls I've read. I could always just use the 45° I bought but it puts the tube at a weird angle.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I just cringe a bit with that paint job.
> 
> Heck i cant do better, but reminds me to do a better job painting next time


I guess the best way I can look at it is, I have to paint to match my theme now.

edit- hope this deal for the fittings goes through ,then I can start modding my r4 to take the 360mm rad in the front panel.


----------



## Domler

Small update. Tell me what you think.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I need really good custom cables, and need to set them at specific lengths.. I do not want to mod them myself though, so I am looking for someone you all trust if you buy them. I have one build with two power supplies total.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> Small update. Tell me what you think.


YOu have my interest. I like the Res Mounting.

TCO


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I need really good custom cables, and need to set them at specific lengths.. I do not want to mod them myself though, so I am looking for someone you all trust if you buy them. I have one build with two power supplies total.


http://www.ensourced.net/


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Dictionary says: quad [kwod]
> adjective
> 1.
> *designating or comprising four* persons or *things*..
> 
> Quad means 4 things.. things being GPUs LOL. I wonder if I can fit 4 people into this case...
> maybe the box from ASUS.. It says SLi or Quad SLi.. 3 way and 4 way not supported (z97 series and such...)


I can't believe this is still being discussed. Semantics


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> My s8 with ek d5 has a 90 on the outlet port of the pump and I have no issues I heard inlet is another story !


I wouldn't worry about it. The d5 is powerful enough to push through a 90. It'll be fine


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I can't believe this is still being discussed. Semantics


I got nothing, but there is Definitely a picture that shows what i meant.. :-D


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about it. The d5 is powerful enough to push through a 90. It'll be fine


Yea, everything I've read says that a 90° on the out does not noticeably impact performance. The question was whether or not I could get away with a dual rotary 90° on the INLET. I've read here previously that cavitation is a worry from loading flow to one side of the inlet, but I believe that was with single rotary 90° fittings which have a harsher bend.

Loop aesthetics are important with a case like the D-Frame Mini. So I was hoping someone had tried and had a definitive answer as a 90° lines up perfectly with the radiator port whereas a 45° puts me in an odd spot.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> One is (vertically on an extender to show off the block), the other two are going in the In Win 909.


Damn you derick and your hardware pr0n. Ti's would be my route but if I were you, tbh i wouldn't complain







. I is jelli Mr orange...









Edit: what colors for the inwin?


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn you derick and your hardware pr0n. Ti's would be my route but if I were you, tbh i wouldn't complain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I is jelli Mr orange...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: what colors for the inwin?


I was feeling the TI as well until I just saw everyone saying that the Fury X just got a 15% performance increase from the new whql drivers. Now I'm conflicted.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> well here is the other pics for the pump I bought with custom paint and sleeving. I still did get a decent deal on it , just need some TLC and gives me some more modding to do! paint needs no be taking care of and rewired.
> 
> speaking of modding this is going to be a stealth build in my windowless r4 case. 3 rads with my classy 780ti and sure my 3570k will be sitting around 5ghz (does 4.8 on air at 1.3v)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> before
> 
> after
> 
> the nice wiring job that stops the pump from fully sitting in the housing
> 
> and the paint job
> 
> at least it came with a nice top!


Man shoulda came to me. That was a "not very spectacular" job


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Yea, everything I've read says that a 90° on the out does not noticeably impact performance. The question was whether or not I could get away with a dual rotary 90° on the INLET. I've read here previously that cavitation is a worry from loading flow to one side of the inlet, but I believe that was with single rotary 90° fittings which have a harsher bend.
> 
> Loop aesthetics are important with a case like the D-Frame Mini. So I was hoping someone had tried and had a definitive answer as a 90° lines up perfectly with the radiator port whereas a 45° puts me in an odd spot.


No because as long as Gravity is feeding the pump it should be fine. It's not like a 180 lol. Dude I got so many 90s in my loop, along with 4 rads, a CPU and 2 gpu blocks, and most restrictive: an aquacomputer filter. The flow in and out of the filter literally is a 180. There are many complex bends with 10mm ID tubing and i still get a strong return boil in the res.

D5 is plenty powerful


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> I was feeling the TI as well until I just saw everyone saying that the Fury X just got a 15% performance increase from the new whql drivers. Now I'm conflicted.


Glad I'm not in the market right now. But I always thought and had better driver and software support


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Pinnacle,please edit your posts instead of double posting.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I need really good custom cables, and need to set them at specific lengths.. I do not want to mod them myself though, so I am looking for someone you all trust if you buy them. I have one build with two power supplies total.


You could go one of two ways: get them through your psu manufacturer for less than 100 total, use the existing cables and get sleeved extensions from silver stone, or full custom extensions through lutro0 customs. It's mad mad expensive though. His store is on point though. I just bought some equipment from him to make as many cables as I want for less than $100
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pinnacle,please edit your posts instead of double posting.


I'm not seeing the double posts. Did they get deleted? I'm using my phone that may be why. Could you point out a post number for example?


----------



## Kimir

You just did it again, posting two post in a row instead of edit, add the quote and reply.
Double post doesn't mean twice the same post you know.


----------



## alancsalt

A double post is when you make two consecutive posts without anyone else posting between them. If no one has posted since your last post please use the edit icon (pencil) at the bottom of your last post instead of posting a fresh post or row of fresh posts. Multiple posts are frowned upon.

While one may inadvertently double post occasionally, if one does it frequently, it looks like one is spamming posts for post count.. They used to call it netiquette, but that might be outdated.

(Your last two posts were edited into one.)


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Man shoulda came to me. That was a "not very spectacular" job


i think my 4 year old could of did a better job


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> Small update. Tell me what you think.


To me, it looks like an after-thought back there . . . .

Like ooooopps, where do I put this?

Why not add a midplate for it?

Darlene


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I need really good custom cables, and need to set them at specific lengths.. I do not want to mod them myself though, so I am looking for someone you all trust if you buy them. I have one build with two power supplies total.


Sanctum Sleeving
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> One is (vertically on an extender to show off the block), the other two are going in the In Win 909.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn you derick and your hardware pr0n. Ti's would be my route but if I were you, tbh i wouldn't complain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I is jelli Mr orange...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: what colors for the inwin?
Click to expand...

I still have the Titan Xs in the MKII... Fury Xs seemed like a good variety







and we have a great relationship with Visiontek.

In Win 909 will be blue and white!


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To me, it looks like an after-thought back there . . . .
> 
> Like ooooopps, where do I put this?
> 
> Why not add a midplate for it?
> 
> Darlene


I got the ideas from another build. I felt like every s8 I saw had dual rad in the top with pump res in the front window. I wanted something a little different. I wanted lots of Windows. Tall hard tubing. And three rads. I'll reference the build later. At work now. I think it will look sharp when it's done. Keep the opinions coming. Im still learning and it's the only way is to take honest critisim. And after seeing your guys builds, I trust you guys.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> A double post is when you make two consecutive posts without anyone else posting between them. If no one has posted since your last post please use the edit icon (pencil) at the bottom of your last post instead of posting a fresh post or row of fresh posts. Multiple posts are frowned upon.
> 
> While one may inadvertently double post occasionally, if one does it frequently, it looks like one is spamming posts for post count.. They used to call it netiquette, but that might be outdated.
> 
> (Your last two posts were edited into one.)


Extremely outdated and my opinion people are a bit neurotic about it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I got the ideas from another build. I felt like every s8 I saw had dual rad in the top with pump res in the front window. I wanted something a little different. I wanted lots of Windows. Tall hard tubing. And three rads. I'll reference the build later. At work now. I think it will look sharp when it's done. Keep the opinions coming. Im still learning and it's the only way is to take honest critisim. And after seeing your guys builds, I trust you guys.


Trust No One,

Unless your about to cut holes and stuff..









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> A double post is when you make two consecutive posts without anyone else posting between them. If no one has posted since your last post please use the edit icon (pencil) at the bottom of your last post instead of posting a fresh post or row of fresh posts. Multiple posts are frowned upon.
> 
> While one may inadvertently double post occasionally, if one does it frequently, it looks like one is spamming posts for post count.. They used to call it netiquette, but that might be outdated.
> 
> (Your last two posts were edited into one.)
> 
> 
> 
> Extremely outdated and my opinion people are a bit neurotic about it.
Click to expand...

As maybe in your opinion but this is my thread,so double posting is a no no along with quoting pics.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As maybe in your opinion but this is my thread,so double posting is a no no along with quoting pics.


Well la di da!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As maybe in your opinion but this is my thread,so double posting is a no no along with quoting pics.
> 
> 
> 
> Well la di da!
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input,feel free to drop in again.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Well la di da!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks for your input,feel free to drop in again.


It's Ok Gentlemen. Relax. Drink more Coffee.

Not a big Deal.










Everything is Ok.

B Neg is trying to Uphold his Stallion Status and we accept that.









TCO


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks for your input,feel free to drop in again.


I always do. Gotta pick the brains of the WCing experts.

Mmmmm coffee! Morning TC!

Ordered my rads this morning. End of the month I'll be getting the rest of the goodies.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> A double post is when you make two consecutive posts without anyone else posting between them. If no one has posted since your last post please use the edit icon (pencil) at the bottom of your last post instead of posting a fresh post or row of fresh posts. Multiple posts are frowned upon.
> 
> While one may inadvertently double post occasionally, if one does it frequently, it looks like one is spamming posts for post count.. They used to call it netiquette, but that might be outdated.
> 
> (Your last two posts were edited into one.)


I'll be more vigilant. Please let me know if it happens again. I'm on my phone but if it continues I'll just start posting using my PC exclusively.

Apologies I'm not trying to spam of use poor netiquette

Edit: Ohhhhh.... I just got it lol. I saw the part the senior mod said about multiple posts in a row. Ok I got it. I'll stop doing that from now on. Relatively new to forum-ing lol my bad


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I always do. Gotta pick the brains of the WCing experts.
> 
> Mmmmm coffee! Morning TC!
> 
> Ordered my rads this morning. *End of the month I'll be getting the rest of the goodies.*


Morning Stock!

You act like you are building something







Did I miss a log?

TCO


----------



## crafty615

How important is cutting tubing straight? Like should I buy one of those tube cutters, or would I be fine with just using scissors or something?


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Morning Stock!
> 
> *You act like you are building something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did I miss a log?*
> 
> TCO


I haven't started one.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> How important is cutting tubing straight? Like should I buy one of those tube cutters, or would I be fine with just using scissors or something?


I would always use tubing cutters. Just habit from past projects and jobs.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> How important is cutting tubing straight? Like should I buy one of those tube cutters, or would I be fine with just using scissors or something?


For soft tubing scissors have never failed.

TCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I haven't started one.


Well Lets get on the ball Shall we?









TCO


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> How important is cutting tubing straight? Like should I buy one of those tube cutters, or would I be fine with just using scissors or something?


soft tubing? Not very important if you are using compression fittings.

It needs to be pretty straight using barbes or the imperfections will show.

I use regular scissors without any issues.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> soft tubing? *Not very important if you are using compression fittings.
> *
> It needs to be really straight using barbes or the imperfections will show.
> 
> I use regular scissors without any issues.


I forgot to say that Key Component there.

+ Rep Rat!

TCO


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I forgot to say that Key Component there.
> 
> + Rep Rat!
> 
> TCO


I got ninja'd. then ninja' quoted and rep'd by the time my one post went in.

thanks tco


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> For soft tubing scissors have never failed.
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> soft tubing? Not very important if you are using compression fittings.
> 
> It needs to be pretty straight using barbes or the imperfections will show.
> 
> I use regular scissors without any issues.


Okay good, I am using compression and i'm at $830 of just the water cooling parts, so the extra $10 seems outrageous at this point haha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I got ninja'd. then ninja' quoted and rep'd by the time my one post went in.
> 
> thanks tco










No problem Man!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Okay good, I am using compression and i'm at $830 of just the water cooling parts, so the extra $10 seems outrageous at this point haha


Remember, You get what you Pay for!

I paid 15$ for each 90Degree Bitspower Compression Fitting for the "Lower" compartment of my SMA8 (No One will ever see them) but I know they are good quality and I don't need to worry about leaks as long as I installed them Correctly.

TCO


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Remember, You get what you Pay for!
> 
> I paid 15$ for each 90Degree Bitspower Compression Fitting for the "Lower" compartment of my SMA8 (No One will ever see them) but I know they are good quality and I don't need to worry about leaks as long as I installed them Correctly.
> 
> TCO


Yeah, I originally had an xspc rx480 kit picked out, but I finally convinced myself that if i'm spending this much money on this, I don't want to cheap out because the fans that come with it aren't very good and I wanted better fittings and all sorts of stuff, so I ended up going with individual parts (making it over $130 more) but it will be so worth it when I get this thing set up and can call it mine!









And i'm going with enzotech because i like the looks and they look like good fittings without being as much at bitspower, eventually i'll be going to hard line down the road and I will upgrade to bitspower because I won't have to spend such a large amount at once


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> For soft tubing scissors have never failed.
> 
> TCO
> *Well Lets get on the ball Shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> TCO


I'm on it!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I got ninja'd. then ninja' quoted and rep'd by the time my one post went in.
> 
> thanks tco


He's good for that.... Wait till he starts drinking the coolant.












Couple of teaser pics for you!


----------



## MadHatter5045

My latest order from PPCs shipped today, will switch Gray Son to rigid tubing really soon


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> soft tubing? Not very important if you are using compression fittings.
> 
> It needs to be pretty straight using barbes or the imperfections will show.
> 
> I use regular scissors without any issues.


I concur. For soft tubing it's not really important for it to be 100% straight. but you still want it relatively straight.

For rigid tubing I would use a fretsaw, hacksaw or a dremel with a saw bit (http://www.amazon.com/SE-SS45HS-5-Piece-High-Speed-Mandrels/dp/B001J9MOU0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1436453724&sr=8-4&keywords=dremel+saw)

You really want to make sure it's straight, and you can do it by getting one of these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Premium-Quick-Square-Layout-Tool-46-071/203736652?cm_mmc=Shopping|Base&gclid=CjwKEAjwt_isBRDuisOm1dTQqGISJAAfRrEAVJ-hJgwt_avhma4Y_jXLTYnVY9OCecRCFzaBRsVm_hoCs2Tw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Finally, you need the primochill kit: http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Rigid-Acrylic-Bending-Kit/dp/B00UAZTTDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436453843&sr=8-1&keywords=rigid+tubing+bending+kit
and a pipe reamer: http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inner-Outer-Reamer-HDX085/204218601 or http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-482-Deburring/dp/B00004T828/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436453896&sr=8-1&keywords=pipe+deburring+tool


----------



## Wolfsbora

I use a metal cutting wheel on my Dremel, crank it to full speed, and attempt to cut it as strait as possible. Once I've done that, I take standard 600 grit sandpaper and sand down the end. Provided your cut was mostly even, there won't be much sanding to do. It works for me like a charm. I'd avoid the plastic cutting wheels that Dremel offers, they wear out really quickly. The metal ones work the same but last much longer.


----------



## Ceadderman

Or use soft tubing cutter to mark up the surface and a copper tubing cutter to finish the cut, for hardline. The results of doing so look sharp as hades.









Gonna dp a couple times just to mess with B, I think.


















~Ceadder


----------



## By-Tor

Ordered Bitfenix 8 & 6 pin black and red video cables and black G1/4 plugs for my second powercolor 290x LCS video card that will be here Monday...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or use soft tubing cutter to mark up the surface and a copper tubing cutter to finish the cut, for hardline. The results of doing so look sharp as hades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna dp a couple times just to mess with B, I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I want to see you do that with acrylic...









And dont buy that Primochill mandrel..its junk. Go with the monsoon kit if you are bending a lot of tube,otherwise just use a deodorant can.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Ordered Bitfenix 8 & 6 pin black and red video cables and black G1/4 plugs for my second powercolor 290x LCS video card that will be here Monday...


I think I used those in my 750D Build. (Bitfenix Cables)

TCO


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I'm on it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He's good for that.... Wait till he starts drinking the coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couple of teaser pics for you!


Are you able to fit anything larger than 240?


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Are you able to fit anything larger than 240?


No it's a small case. The NZXT S340. I'm planning on the 240 up front and the 120 in the rear.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> My latest order from PPCs shipped today, will switch Gray Son to rigid tubing really soon


That's your SMA8 build, right? If it is.... YES! My SMA8 will probably be finished and shipped out next month or two









Edit* what do you guys think about delidding? I kind of want to do it to my 4770k since I'm going all out of my radiators (RX480, RX360, RX240, and 560GTS). I'll be running it at 4.5ghz @ 1.310v. With those temps, it can peak at like 86c, but the normal highest is around 75c.


----------



## emsj86

For those whom have and or still do make there own acrylic panels for there cases where do you purschase your sheets from preferably in the USA. Also any tips or ocn thread for how to. I have an idea but want to make it perfect. Sorry if it's off topic. But figure most people doing this or for water cooled rigs. Thanks in advance


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's your SMA8 build, right? If it is.... YES! My SMA8 will probably be finished and shipped out next month or two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit* what do you guys think about delidding? I kind of want to do it to my 4770k since I'm going all out of my radiators (RX480, RX360, RX240, and 560GTS). I'll be running it at 4.5ghz @ 1.310v. With those temps, it can peak at like 86c, but the normal highest is around 75c.


I delidded the 4770k.

4.5Ghz with 1.275V (I am using lower voltage than you) Using Realbench 2.2 (at the time was current version) and using 8 gb of the 16gb of Ram I had.

Max temp after 15min of 100% load was 78C

Ambients in the house were 25c. And the EVGA 780 FTW was in the loop also. (Max temp on GPU was 48C)

That is a 360mm Rad and 240mm Rad

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I delidded the 4770k.
> 
> 4.5Ghz with 1.275V (I am using lower voltage than you) Using Realbench 2.2 (at the time was current version) and using 8 gb of the 16gb of Ram I had.
> 
> Max temp after 15min of 100% load was 78C
> 
> Ambients in the house were 25c. And the EVGA 780 FTW was in the loop also. (Max temp on GPU was 48C)
> 
> That is a 360mm Rad and 240mm Rad
> 
> TCO


What method did you use for delidding it? What were the temps before you delidded? If I run any program at 4.5, it will automatically hit 100c (real bench, Intel burn test, and the one that really brings the heat... Forgot the name)


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For those whom have and or still do make there own acrylic panels for there cases where do you purschase your sheets from preferably in the USA. Also any tips or ocn thread for how to. I have an idea but want to make it perfect. Sorry if it's off topic. But figure most people doing this or for water cooled rigs. Thanks in advance


home depot .

I like lexan ,it is very forgiving to work with.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> No it's a small case. The NZXT S340. I'm planning on the 240 up front and the 120 in the rear.


Gotcha. See how your temps are...if you need to you can always add a radbox later.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's your SMA8 build, right? If it is.... YES! My SMA8 will probably be finished and shipped out next month or two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit* what do you guys think about delidding? I kind of want to do it to my 4770k since I'm going all out of my radiators (RX480, RX360, RX240, and 560GTS). I'll be running it at 4.5ghz @ 1.310v. With those temps, it can peak at like 86c, but the normal highest is around 75c.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What method did you use for delidding it? What were the temps before you delidded? If I run any program at 4.5, it will automatically hit 100c (real bench, Intel burn test, and the one that really brings the heat... Forgot the name)


I'm delidded and running 4.6 at 1.275 I think. I do it thru bios not aisuite. at idle of mid 20s and at p95 blend it's around 70-75
If you're looking to delid don't use the razor method. I would also advise you check out the delid thread in my signature. I've delidded using both the hammer and vise and vise-only method. The latter is the best. Here's a very brief tutorial. There's better videos out there for this method but this one is mine.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For those whom have and or still do make there own acrylic panels for there cases where do you purschase your sheets from preferably in the USA. Also any tips or ocn thread for how to. I have an idea but want to make it perfect. Sorry if it's off topic. But figure most people doing this or for water cooled rigs. Thanks in advance


I don't mod but here are a couple links:

http://www.eplastics.com/plexiglass_acrylic_sheet

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=442&parentcatid=443

You might be able to find acrylic at Michael's or JoAns's as well. Hope this helps!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What method did you use for delidding it? What were the temps before you delidded? If I run any program at 4.5, it will automatically hit 100c (real bench, Intel burn test, and the one that really brings the heat... Forgot the name)


Temps before (Going off of my incomplete sheet at work that I documented from memory) was 87C With same ambients before the Delid.

When I was running 4.6Ghz with 1.325V I have an average of 89C but Touched 95C on a core or two (This was before I added the 240mm Rad) If I recall correctly.

TCO

And I used a razor. Came out fine. The Razor was free from Detail Dept at the Car Dealership


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's your SMA8 build, right? If it is.... YES! My SMA8 will probably be finished and shipped out next month or two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit* what do you guys think about delidding? I kind of want to do it to my 4770k since I'm going all out of my radiators (RX480, RX360, RX240, and 560GTS). I'll be running it at 4.5ghz @ 1.310v. With those temps, it can peak at like 86c, but the normal highest is around 75c.


Yep that's my SMA8 build







. I'll have to revive my neglected build log lol. OCN has a special place in my heart so you all will be the first to get see how it comes out, twitter and facebook will have to wait until after I upload the vlogs of the upgrade to my YouTube channel.

You'll love the SMA8, it completely changed my outlook on cases. Do you have a build log up?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Yep that's my SMA8 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll have to revive my neglected build log lol. OCN has a special place in my heart so you all will be the first to get see how it comes out, twitter and facebook will have to wait until after I upload the vlogs of the upgrade to my YouTube channel.
> 
> You'll love the SMA8, it completely changed my outlook on cases. Do you have a build log up?


I do









http://www.overclock.net/t/1562006/build-log-case-labs-sma8-aquity-gunmetal-black-titan-x-sli


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1562006/build-log-case-labs-sma8-aquity-gunmetal-black-titan-x-sli


Excellent! I'm along for the ride now







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or use soft tubing cutter to mark up the surface and a copper tubing cutter to finish the cut, for hardline. The results of doing so look sharp as hades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna dp a couple times just to mess with B, I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to see you do that with acrylic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And dont buy that Primochill mandrel..its junk. Go with the monsoon kit if you are bending a lot of tube,otherwise just use a deodorant can.
Click to expand...

I own the Pro kit. Although I don't like the measuring kit that came with it as much as I thought I would. Clear plexiglass rules suck imho. I'dve rather they did alumnium rules with decent markings. The plexi ones get messed up too easy and tbh any company that makes fittings and a bending kit should have a better way of setting up the measuring system. Like how about adding a couple of guides that are threaded for G1/4, with which to actually secure the rules in the correct alignment. I know to measure center to center but it's just not that simple. In fact that Center to Center formula is *too* simplistic imho.

Because which side do I start and which side do I finish. In the end I keep the rules on the desk and simply line up my mandrels (with the exception of the 360) over a fitting base and bend, then I take an old piece of short stock already bent to figure out where the other bend must go and mark the point where my Mandrel must start prior to the bend.

My other complaint about this kit is that should I want a perfect 360 leg, I cannot use that mandrel to lay up the tube atop of itself because the rim of the mandrel is a perfect circle. Had there been a gradual notch in both sides (1 each) then I could get as tight of an overlay as necessary to get a perfect 360 bend.

It's not *that* big a deal for either issue, but the kit certainly does not meet the criteria for "Professional" grade imho. It's a solid kit and I'm glad I got it, but it's the niggling bits that get my OCD to a feverish pitch when I am working.









Oh and the cutting mandrel and saw are simply wasted time and material. I've already damaged that mandrel because the blades have a slight warp to them which caused me to gouge the aluminum mandrel noticeably. I still use the mandrel to cut tubing, but now I simply hold the mandrel in place inside my cheapo miter box and use the back saw that came with that to make my cuts. I will be using the softcutter/copper tubing method the next time I cut however.









~Ceadder


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What method did you use for delidding it? What were the temps before you delidded? If I run any program at 4.5, it will automatically hit 100c (real bench, Intel burn test, and the one that really brings the heat... Forgot the name)


I used the vise and block method for my first and only delid

not the pretty looking delid, was unsure with how hard I had to hit the damn thing. next time I think I will do the vise only method.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> I used the vise and block method for my first and only delid
> 
> not the pretty looking delid, was unsure with how hard I had to hit the damn thing. next time I think I will do the vise only method.


Yea it's much much much safer to go vise only. Plus you dont end up with a PCB getting launched. I posted the video in my earlier post.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea it's much much much safer to go vise only. Plus you dont end up with a PCB getting launched. I posted the video in my earlier post.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea it's much much much safer to go vise only. Plus you dont end up with a PCB getting launched. I posted the video in my earlier post.


I see that , I am still on the fence about doing my loved 3570k I bought this during its release week I think 3 years ago.

OK my fittings are on the way 12x compression -4x 90 - 4x 45

they are 3/8ID and 5/8OD what tubing would you guys here recommend for me.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For those whom have and or still do make there own acrylic panels for there cases where do you purschase your sheets from preferably in the USA. Also any tips or ocn thread for how to. I have an idea but want to make it perfect. Sorry if it's off topic. But figure most people doing this or for water cooled rigs. Thanks in advance


I'm unsure if Performance PC's will just sell you the sheets but you could send them whatever you design and have them laser cut it for you. Very reasonable prices.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Primochill Advanced LRT.

Only tubing that's reliable in performance. You can maybe get Mayhem's new clear tubing from PPPCs if they haven't run out.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> I see that , I am still on the fence about doing my loved 3570k I bought this during its release week I think 3 years ago.
> 
> OK my fittings are on the way 12x compression -4x 90 - 4x 45
> 
> they are 3/8ID and 5/8OD what tubing would you guys here recommend for me.


There are delid tutorials but I can't imagine this chip is that much different. Unless I'm mistaken its ivy bridge.

If you got 3/8 ID go with this tubing don't go any narrower than that. In fact I would've recommended going with 1/2 id barbs and 7/16 x 5/8 Tygon tubing.

Nothing wrong with 3/8 though and if you ever go with rihid tubing in the future 10mm ID / 12mm od is around this diameter.

Make sure you use clips on each fitting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT.
> 
> Only tubing that's reliable in performance. You can maybe get Mayhem's new clear tubing from PPPCs if they haven't run out.


You can also buy acrylic at Home Depot for pretty cheap.


----------



## Ceadderman

Options are rather limited in store @ Home Depot. You have to order it from their website in some instances depending on your needs.

If you're lucky to have a Tap plastics store in your area this is where I'd go.

But yeah if you're not putting your system up for competition or you give credit for the parts that you don't mod on your own, Performance-PCs is as good a place to go as any.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Options are rather limited in store @ Home Depot. You have to order it from their website in some instances depending on your needs.
> 
> If you're lucky to have a Tap plastics store in your area this is where I'd go.
> 
> But yeah if you're not putting your system up for competition or you give credit for the parts that you don't mod on your own, Performance-PCs is as good a place to go as any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea PPC will probably custom cut for you...Home Depot doesnt, and trust me theyre a pain to cut


----------



## Ceadderman

Acrylics are pretty easy to cut and shape imho, if you use a piece of MDF as a guide to allow your cutting blade to perch against.

If you cut larger and use a sanding table to shave a panel down along the edge it can clean up the edges quite well. If you don't have a table a sand block with fine grit will work sufficiently.

Some people use a dremel in fact. The task can be daunting but it can be done.









~Ceadder


----------



## DreamTheatrics

So I found another radiator in my closet that I forgot I had. No room on the test bench for it so I had to just make it work. Now I'm running a Monsta 420mm rad in push/pull and this 30mm thick 360mm in push config with some really thick 120mmx38mm fans. My 980 Ti max load temps dropped down to 37c







That's with 1.255v at 1530/4000.



I'm starting to crave going back to a case though. I miss the detailed cable management and loop order required in a case. This test bench is just too "set me up however you want I don't care".. if that makes sense









Anyone know a case that will fit a monsta 420 and 30mm thick 360mm in push/pull? I think I already know the answer to that though, Looks like I'm going to have to drop a fat wad of cash for a Case Labs.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> There are delid tutorials but I can't imagine this chip is that much different. Unless I'm mistaken its ivy bridge.
> 
> If you got 3/8 ID go with this tubing don't go any narrower than that. In fact I would've recommended going with 1/2 id barbs and 7/16 x 5/8 Tygon tubing.
> 
> Nothing wrong with 3/8 though and if you ever go with rihid tubing in the future 10mm ID / 12mm od is around this diameter.
> 
> Make sure you use clips on each fitting.


I should not need any clips right, with soft tubing? I am using the monsoon free center compression fittings. are you saying I could use these with hard tubing if I wanted to one day?

I dielied my 4670k all ready, just on the fence about doing my 3570k. If I do this time around I think i'l try the vise only method.

as always Thanks









p.s. I am going to try out that mayhem tubing , have 10' on the way!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Need to Paint but am pleased with the "Look"












TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreamTheatrics*
> 
> So I found another radiator in my closet that I forgot I had. No room on the test bench for it so I had to just make it work. Now I'm running a Monsta 420mm rad in push/pull and this 30mm thick 360mm in push config with some really thick 120mmx38mm fans. My 980 Ti max load temps dropped down to 37c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's with 1.255v at 1530/4000.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting to crave going back to a case though. I miss the detailed cable management and loop order required in a case. This test bench is just too "set me up however you want I don't care".. if that makes sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Anyone know a case that will fit a monsta 420 and 30mm thick 360mm in push/pull*? I think I already know the answer to that though, Looks like I'm going to have to drop a fat wad of cash for a Case Labs.


You could fit that combination, effectively twice, in a sub $200 Thermaltake Core X9.

It's about as far from being a Caselabs, build quality wise as it gets, but for short money, it has a crap ton of rad space and is pretty easy to work in.

Darlene


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT.
> 
> Only tubing that's reliable in performance. You can maybe get Mayhem's new clear tubing from PPPCs if they haven't run out.


I hope mahem's new tubing is good cause its dirt cheap!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm unsure if Performance PC's will just sell you the sheets but you could send them whatever you design and have them laser cut it for you. Very reasonable prices.


I saw they did that but unsure how or what I go they need. I want to until caselabs brings back there color cases, make a acrylic 3mm mother plate with slots cut out for motherboard cables. Than one for the back and bottom panel. Than one to mod a 360 rad for the front of my phanteks case


----------



## SteezyTN

So my water temps are 6-7c over ambient. It's 75f in my room (~24c) and right now, my water temps are idling a little under 31c. What the heck!!!! I have three rads: RX360, RX240 and an EX240. All are using SP120 quiet editions fans running at 1400 RPM and the RX240 is in push pull.

When I get my SMa8 shipped from caselabs, I think all the radiators I'm running in the bottom compartment will be used with EK 140 and 120 fans for my Rx360 and 560GTS. I'm mainly using the SP120's for aesthetics, but this is just ridiculous.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So my water temps are 6-7c over ambient. It's 75f in my room (~24c) and right now, my water temps are idling a little under 31c. What the heck!!!! I have three rads: RX360, RX240 and an EX240. All are using SP120 quiet editions fans running at 1400 RPM and the RX240 is in push pull.
> 
> When I get my SMa8 shipped from caselabs, I think all the radiators I'm running in the bottom compartment will be used with EK 140 and 120 fans for my Rx360 and 560GTS. I'm mainly using the SP120's for aesthetics, but this is just ridiculous.


If I take the total of my min temps 185/6 = 30.8

My Ambients are 26.6C

TCO

Avg is 197/6 = 32.8C


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If I take the total of my min temps 185/6 = 30.8
> 
> My Ambients are 26.6C
> 
> TCO
> 
> Avg is 197/6 = 32.8C


What do you mean by total?


----------



## Jflisk

This is why we clean our water blocks



Just cleaned and put back toghther. Going to run water thru it for a night before I put it back into my system. Was leaking after the first time I put it back together. Took it back apart and reseated the gasket does not look to be leaking now.

Anyone have any ideas on the discoloration on the bottom of my CPU block


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> This is why we clean our water blocks
> 
> snip
> 
> Just cleaned and put back toghther. Going to run water thru it for a night before I put it back into my system. Was leaking after the first time I put it back together. Took it back apart and reseated the gasket does not look to be leaking now.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas on the discoloration on the bottom of my CPU block
> 
> -snip-


don't quote me one this but it just looks like the copper is reacting to the air, oxidizing pretty normal for copper to do this.

I am a noob to watercooling, so take my answer with a grain of salt







still have not even built a loop yet.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> don't quote me one this but it just looks like the copper is reacting to the air, oxidizing pretty normal for copper to do this.


Yes, it's just tarnish. Some vinegar and salt will get rid of all of it pretty quick.

Not sure if you guys would have seen this:




Some cool prizes and the brand new website is worth a look.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup, tarnish. I suggest using some Nevr Dull or McGwuires polishing compounds. Some people use Autosol or Brasso.

Whichever polish you like should clean up the exterior of your block.









Frankly I like NevrDull. A single piece of wadding can make the dinghies of metals shine. We used to use it and a green pad to take barnacles off boat props and the combo does a really good job making the brass shine again.









~Ceadder


----------



## alltheGHz

guys, is it better to have 2x 120mm rads or 1x 140mm rad? I'm thinking the two 120s because the heat from the CPU can be passively cooled because of the tubes releasing heat as the water flows through them, or am I just being stupid?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I re-did my entire loop today top to bottom. Drilled new holes for the pump top, re-routed some tubing, changed all my fans out to better rad fans I had on hand (Hyperborea's and Swiftech Helix's). Everything seemed to be going smooth during the filling process till suddenly I heard a noise that sounded like water emptying and I could see a small puddle of water in the front corner of the case under my Magicool 280 rad.

So I take the rad out of my case, and it's clearly wet. Removed all the fans and didn't see any holes that looked pierced. I dried it, filled it up with water, and sealed it; lo and behold it was wet again after shaking. So now my rad is leaking and I have no idea where from or what caused it. I don't see how I could have pierced the core when I used the exact same screws (the ones provided by Magicool) and the screws were all aligned properly when I removed the fan.

Does Magicool have a rep on here, or any RMA contact info??


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> guys, is it better to have 2x 120mm rads or 1x 140mm rad? I'm thinking the two 120s because the heat from the CPU can be passively cooled because of the tubes releasing heat as the water flows through them, or am I just being stupid?


Two 120 will be better than any 140mm but a single 240mm (120 x 2) is better than two 120s because less fittings/tubing.

the heat released by the tubing will not be enough to matter.


----------



## jon666

Well crap. RMA for CPU block was accepted but they don't have them snazzy clear ones in stock.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup, tarnish. I suggest using some Nevr Dull or McGwuires polishing compounds. Some people use Autosol or Brasso.
> 
> Whichever polish you like should clean up the exterior of your block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Frankly I like NevrDull. A single piece of wadding can make the dinghies of metals shine. We used to use it and a green pad to take barnacles off boat props and the combo does a really good job making the brass shine again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just cleaned up my Supreme HF...









It was tarnished pretty badly. Just used NevrDull, some elbow grease and a red automotive towel. Good as new after washing the acrylic block with Palmolive dish soap.









Pics from my S4.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> I should not need any clips right, with soft tubing? I am using the monsoon free center compression fittings. are you saying I could use these with hard tubing if I wanted to one day?
> 
> I dielied my 4670k all ready, just on the fence about doing my 3570k. If I do this time around I think i'l try the vise only method.
> 
> as always Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. I am going to try out that mayhem tubing , have 10' on the way!


I meant if you're using barbs you should always use clips. If you're using compressions those are fine.
Check and make sure that the delid is the same because my tutorial is for haswell. I've never done an ivy bridge. It may be the same but I'd check with someone who has delidded that chip so you don't ruin it.
Mayhem is a good brand. I'm sure you'll be fine with it. I don't think they had a tubing when I bought mine.


----------



## kevzhu

Nearing the end of my first water cooling build and posting up in build logs soon. Here's a little laser cut teaser, custom bay reservoir cover


----------



## sdmf74

Just noticed something interesting while benchmarking. While running gpupi for cpu my cpu had a difference of a max temp of 3-4c (57c-61c) with my D5 pwm pump set at about max rpm vs 2000rpm. Interesting cause if I remember correctly
with my mcp50x pump there was no difference in temps when changing pump speed. Not sure exactly what this means but thought I would share my findings.

@ Ceadderman thats a good idea, I just had my cpu block off wish I would have thought to clean/polish it up. Oh well its fairly new but next time I redo my t paste im gonna do that looks nice!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Just noticed something interesting while benchmarking. While running gpupi for cpu my cpu had a difference of a max temp of 3-4c (57c-61c) with my D5 pwm pump set at about max rpm vs 2000rpm. Interesting cause if I remember correctly
> with my mcp50x pump there was no difference in temps when changing pump speed. Not sure exactly what this means but thought I would share my findings.
> 
> @ Ceadderman thats a good idea, I just had my cpu block off wish I would have thought to clean/polish it up. Oh well its fairly new but next time I redo my t paste im gonna do that looks nice!


So pump speed increase = cpu temp increase? or the opposite?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> This is why we clean our water blocks
> 
> 
> 
> Just cleaned and put back toghther. Going to run water thru it for a night before I put it back into my system. Was leaking after the first time I put it back together. Took it back apart and reseated the gasket does not look to be leaking now.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas on the discoloration on the bottom of my CPU block


Brasso, bartenders something, any brass/copper Polish will work. Use a MF towel also, that'll help reduce the chance of any scratches. For inside the block, use a toothbrush.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What do you mean by total?


I have 6 cores, Take the min temps off all (my) Cores and then divide by 6 to get average.

TCO


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Brasso, bartenders something, any brass/copper Polish will work. Use a MF towel also, that'll help reduce the chance of any scratches. For inside the block, use a toothbrush.


Watch someone call you out or report you for cursing when you meant microfiber lol. I got sent a message for that before.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Brasso, bartenders something, any brass/copper Polish will work. Use a MF towel also, that'll help reduce the chance of any scratches. For inside the block, use a toothbrush.
> 
> 
> 
> Watch someone call you out or report you for cursing when you meant microfiber lol. I got sent a message for that before.
Click to expand...

LOL! If you're apart of any auto forum...you'll know MF means Microfiber.... If someone says that's a bad word...get your mind outta the gutter. lol


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> So pump speed increase = cpu temp increase? or the opposite?


No sorry, that would be odd though. The other way around, I only mentioned it cause I have heard people say that pump speed doesnt affect temps but in this case it helped by increasing the speed of the pump.
Not sure if that is a good thing but at least I can set my pwm curve in AISUITEIII and set a benchmarking profile to get the best temps when needed.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> No sorry, that would be odd though. The other way around, I only mentioned it cause I have heard people say that pump speed doesnt affect temps but in this case it helped by increasing the speed of the pump.
> Not sure if that is a good thing but at least I can set my pwm curve in AISUITEIII and set a benchmarking profile to get the best temps when needed.


I can tell you the D5 will add to the temperature in your Loop. I have 2 of them out of my system right now on a res and leak testing my CPU block. The heat the D5 adds is pretty high its making my CPU block warm to the touch with no rads or I should say my CPU block is the rad right now. The D5 is water cooled


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I can tell you the D5 will add to the temperature in your Loop. I have 2 of them out of my system right now on a res and leak testing my CPU block. The heat the D5 adds is pretty high its making my CPU block warm to the touch with no rads or I should say my CPU block is the rad right now. The D5 is water cooled


I was talkibg about this earlier in the thread.

My phat bits loop is getting better temps using my backup pump a 10w ddc.

I think loops with plenty of rad space wont notice this as much. In my case the swiftech mcr rads are already barely enough for the 4770k + 970 overclocked.

A D5 using 12v only generates around 20w. The 37 watt rating is at 24v. Using two though 40w can definitely be noticed.


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah I can honestly say my temps didnt increase but I have 2 rads plus I put a larger inline res in when I switched to a D5 which may have canceled out the small amount of extra heat caused by switching


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Yeah I can honestly say my temps didnt increase but I have 2 rads plus I put a larger inline res in when I switched to a D5 which may have canceled out the small amount of extra heat caused by switching


also if you run the D5 on setting 1-2 that would only be 10w ish of heat. The heat load is more noticeable at higher setting.


----------



## sdmf74

Another benefit for the pwm version, I hadnt thought of that but glad I got one. I never did understand why everyone seems to prefer the vario version. Maybe cause until recent vendors didnt make a true pwm version?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Another benefit for the pwm version, I hadnt thought of that but glad I got one. I never did understand why everyone seems to prefer the vario version. Maybe cause until recent vendors didnt make a true pwm version?


Pwm production did come later. It was some time after the mcp35x came out.

The non vario D5 is actually a weaker pump. it = D5 vario on setting 4 all the time. So thats another reason the vario was prefered.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Does anyone have a better idea for 2 280mm rads than this?



I'm considering a case labs pedestal or something because this setup looks like garbage.


----------



## sdmf74

Good to know my knowledge on the D5 is lacking, this is my first one









@PF do it Im considering getting one too and expanding my SM8, also check the K|NGP|N owners club for me - have question


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Good to know my knowledge on the D5 is lacking, this is my first one


They are great pumps. I dont want talk of the heat they dump to sound like a big negative.

It will rarely ever affect cpu temps any more than loop order.


----------



## MKHunt

Not to mention them dumping the heat into the loop is an excellent way to cool a pump. Way less worry about temps than a 35x or something with a heatsink tucked away in a tiny crowded corner with no airflow. When moving from my 35X I specifically looked for a pump that could be cooled by the loop.


----------



## sdmf74

Good point Mike


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Not to mention them dumping the heat into the loop is an excellent way to cool a pump. Way less worry about temps than a 35x or something with a heatsink tucked away in a tiny crowded corner with no airflow. When moving from my 35X I specifically looked for a pump that could be cooled by the loop.


The bitspower/ek/swiftech heatsinks do a good job and look better but they adds cost.

Also high restriction loops do not heat up the ddc pumps.

High flowrate is what makes them get hot. The D5 is the ideal pump for high flow compenents and the ddc are beter suited for high restriction.


----------



## Domler

Hey guys. Quick question. Monsoon economy hard line fittings. The small oring goes on the hex? It will fit on the inside of the tubing. It's the only place it will fit. But I feel like it will fall out of place when the system is running. Or am I crazy. Thank


----------



## wermad

Mr Slinky, mr "don't use my pictures and sell my old Titan rig for billions of dollahs", put a ram block on his multi ddc pump setup. I think two did fit w/ on ram block, so wc a ddc pump can be done pretty easily. My post may violate his "awesome rig" copyright entitlement....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> I was feeling the TI as well until I just saw everyone saying that the Fury X just got a 15% performance increase from the new whql drivers. Now I'm conflicted.


I need to look into that. but I'm still not 100% sure on amd and their new lineup. I would have delayed it a couple more weeks if new drivers have improved things quite a bit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Glad I'm not in the market right now. But I always thought and had better driver and software support


Well, it will be a long while but i might as well just keep up with what ever seems better. Still more time and more products are due (probably), so I'm still open minded.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Sanctum Sleeving
> I still have the Titan Xs in the MKII... Fury Xs seemed like a good variety
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and we have a great relationship with Visiontek.
> 
> In Win 909 will be blue and white!


Oh, a nice departure from the orange themes. Kewl


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

So FrozenCPU is open(ing) again? Noticed a post on Facebook...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> So FrozenCPU is open(ing) again? Noticed a post on Facebook...


Could you link it for us Minions?

TCO


----------



## electro2u

I hope Mark is doing better. Everyone struggles with things at some point and even rich people are just people. Im not sure if ill order from them again until things are settled but i have some credit there and ill use it if they are running again.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Could you link it for us Minions?
> 
> TCO


There Facebook page
https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> There Facebook page
> https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom


Ridiculous that they think they won't have to publicly address what actually happened and just "pretend" everythings fine. Didn't EK say they are DONE with them no matter what?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ridiculous that they think they won't have to publicly address what actually happened and just "pretend" everythings fine. Didn't EK say they are DONE with them no matter what?


I ordered a lot of stuff from them over the years. I am not going to order from them until they prove they got there stuff together. Performance PC seems to have gotten there stuff together in the past year or so. There use to be a lot of complaints against Performance PC( I was leery to use them ) - But not any more Performance is my go to at this point. Think there shipping could use a little work at this point took two days to ship out on my last 2 orders - but that's about the only complaint I have. If you look at it as a whole the only price difference in parts is what the retailer wants to add to the price Performance PC also exceeds in the price department for the most part.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> Hey guys. Quick question. Monsoon economy hard line fittings. The small oring goes on the hex? It will fit on the inside of the tubing. It's the only place it will fit. But I feel like it will fall out of place when the system is running. Or am I crazy. Thank


I will look when I get home. I think I put the small one on the fitting and the larger on the tubing. That being said I could be wrong and this is why compression nuts don't sit all the way down on the fitting.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ridiculous that they think they won't have to publicly address what actually happened and just "pretend" everythings fine. *Didn't EK say they are DONE with them no matter what?*


I seem to remember this too.

Edit: This is a thing.


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ridiculous that they think they won't have to publicly address what actually happened and just "pretend" everythings fine. Didn't EK say they are DONE with them no matter what?


yea same here think they said they were done with them


----------



## ColdFusion 13

Their (frozencpu) site is well organized with a diverse selection, and I have always had problems with getting same day, or next day even, shipping from ppcs... but I would rather use ppcs forever than go back to frozencpu... I don't care that he went ballistic... people have problems... what makes me not want to shop there is what he did to his employees..... and then fired them all (or most idk)... those people ran that place while he was running around enjoying the money he made off of us through their hard work.


----------



## By-Tor

ColdFusion... Love your avatar..... lol

I have placed numerous orders with PPC this year alone and they have bent over backwards to get my stuff to me fast and even help fix the issues I created myself while ordering. They are my go to source for modding gear...


----------



## ColdFusion 13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> ColdFusion... Love your avatar..... lol
> 
> I have placed numerous orders with PPC this year alone and they have bent over backwards to get my stuff to me fast and even help fix the issues I created myself while ordering. They are my go to source for modding gear...


Thanks! It's titled "wt_ did I just read?!?" Where _ is a letter i'd not use for fear of breaking forum rules









Yeah I didn't give ppcs enough credit in that post. I just meant that it usually takes them 2-3 days to pick and ship. Not a bad thing as i'd rather have it done right and methodical than rushed and wrong. They have been outstanding to me over the last 10 years. A site I wished had progressed over the last decade is xoxide.com... They had neat stuff.

Ok sorry... I know these posts aren't thread related. I'll stop now








Edit:typos


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, I'm looking at water cooling kits to cool my rig, because they have everything I need and I can't screw up component compatibility. Is it easier, cheaper and better for preformance to get the parts individually, or am I better to get the kit? I'm looking at some stuff from EKWB...


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I'm looking at water cooling kits to cool my rig, because they have everything I need and I can't screw up component compatibility. Is it easier, cheaper and better for preformance to get the parts individually, or am I better to get the kit? I'm looking at some stuff from EKWB...


I'd say depends on the kit? Personally I'm more of a "pick and choose my own stuff" type, but I get where you're
coming from. What are you looking to cool?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I'm looking at water cooling kits to cool my rig, because they have everything I need and I can't screw up component compatibility. Is it easier, cheaper and better for preformance to get the parts individually, or am I better to get the kit? I'm looking at some stuff from EKWB...


If your unsure what goes with what. Perfect place to ask is here. But another option is see what they offer in the kit than find it individually and change a few things up. Like if they offer a small res in the kit find the same pp and just add the larger res tube and such. I have a feeling if you go with a kit you'll be back on in month shopping individual parts. It's addicting


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I'm looking at water cooling kits to cool my rig, because they have everything I need and I can't screw up component compatibility. Is it easier, cheaper and better for preformance to get the parts individually, or am I better to get the kit? I'm looking at some stuff from EKWB...


I ordered the XsPC kit that came with the photon D5 and Rx240. Those kits are much cheaper than buying individually. You'll want at least a D5 or DDC pump. You can always expand it later on, wether it's a GPu block or rad. The EK kits are great too. Since its your first time, I would go with an XSPC kit or an EK Kit.


----------



## emsj86

SteeZytn: what's the fun in that. I'm sure you understand what I was saying I did the same as you built a rig and wanted more the next day


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It's addicting


That is so.


----------



## Wirerat

Delided My 4790k. Temps dropped 8c on hottest core using CLP. Next time I order from Perfomancepc I think I will add the naked ivy kit. that should bring the total gains closer to 10c.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> SteeZytn: what's the fun in that. I'm sure you understand what I was saying I did the same as you built a rig and wanted more the next day


I had an XSPC kit all picked out and before I could even order it I was already wanting more...

So then I started from scratch and have a whole loop picked out of individually picked parts. This thread is what gave me the confidence and will to spend the extra $150 doing that haha.

But the XSPC kit did look really good, I just wanted better fans and fittings, I'm still getting the same RX480 radiator


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I'm looking at water cooling kits to cool my rig, because they have everything I need and I can't screw up component compatibility. Is it easier, cheaper and better for preformance to get the parts individually, or am I better to get the kit? I'm looking at some stuff from EKWB...


For simplicity,the D5 or DDC EK kit has everything you need,no duff parts and much room for expansion.

This is a good place to start.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360

Buy some angled fittings too and you are set.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Delided My 4790k. Temps dropped 8c on hottest core using CLP. Next time I order from Perfomancepc I think I will add the naked ivy kit. that should bring the total gains closer to 10c.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beware of PCB warp,get someone to machine you a shim or.....


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For simplicity,the D5 or DDC EK kit has everything you need,no duff parts and much room for expansion.
> 
> This is a good place to start.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360
> 
> Buy some angled fittings too and you are set.
> Beware of PCB warp,get someone to machine you a shim or.....


You could do that but I really don't think it's necessary. That's actually not the reason the die guard was made...it's designed so the PCb doesn't get pulled out of the socket when you pull the cooler off... So in that sense it's a good idea but it has nothing to do with warp. The die is dead center of the PCb and under pressure against both the cooler and mobo so it's basically fused. The only way the die PCb is gonna warp is if the mobo warps. If that's the case, then you need to reevaluate the way you mount the mobo. That's just my understanding but as with anything else, I could be wrong. If you do decide to get someone to make this guard for you, definitely make sure it has the same thickness dimensions as the IHS.

This is really only necessary though if you are constantly mounting and unmounting the cooler. For most ppl this isn't a problem. You might as well use just the IHS since you'll have to remove the socket cover to use the MSI delid guard, anything similar will require that you do the same. Using the IHS is the best solution if you're not using the EK waterblock or use the naked ivy mounting kit if you are using the EK supremacy kit. It's $5 on PPC.com. Alternatively you can take a couple of shims that are the thickness of the IHS ledge and place them under the socket cover. That will put the same pressure on the die so it makes proper contact with all the socket pins and stays put when unmounting the cooler.

Anybody who wants to delid, I strongly advise you use the vise only method. It is the safest and easiest way to control / protect the die.

Vise only requires nothing but a vise and I discovered it once and after having delidded two other chips using the vise and hammer, I used the vise only method and found it to be so much safer because the PCb didn't fly across the room!

here's the video again:




If you liked this video def share it...I'm actually trying to build my YouTube channel anyway even though I only have one video out. Haven't had much time since I'm looking for a new job lol.

By the way cool laboratory sells a copper suspension TIM called coollaboratory liquid copper (CLC) now which is nonconductive apparently. So they have the entire spectrum. This copper Tim is supposed to be the third best, with clu being #1 and clp being #2. I picked some up off ppc. I'll post a pic of it. Pictures aren't great but it shows that it's actually a copper suspension.





This site offers a review but it's in German. There's a results pic though that shows its efficacy. It's a beast of a TIM.

http://www.technic3d.com/review/kuehler/1722-coollaboratory-liquid-copper-waermeleitpaste-im-test/3.htm

My advice: use CLU between ihs and die and CLC between cooler and ihs


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For simplicity,the D5 or DDC EK kit has everything you need,no duff parts and much room for expansion.
> 
> This is a good place to start.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360
> 
> Buy some angled fittings too and you are set.
> *Beware of PCB warp,get someone to machine you a shim or.....
> *


They warp going naked?

My 4770k has been delided a long time like 2years but I always used the ihs.

If there is risk going naked i will skip it. 2c is not worth it.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Great news!! As some of you may remember, one of my acrylic tubes sprung a leak and some liquid ended up on my HDD. Well, not only did I redo my loop with some of @MunneY's PETG tubing and @szeged's mandrels, I picked up an external enclosure for the HDD and it immediately worked! Woo now! All of my little son's photos are safe!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Great news!! As some of you may remember, one of my acrylic tubes sprung a leak and some liquid ended up on my HDD. Well, not only did I redo my loop with some of @MunneY's PETG tubing and @szeged's mandrels, I picked up an external enclosure for the HDD and it immediately worked! Woo now! All of my little son's photos are safe!


Glad to hear!!

Now do your self a favor and get those photos on to a 2nd drive that is not in the same rig as a backup or cloud uploud em.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Glad to hear!!
> 
> Now do your self a favor and get those photos on to a 2nd drive that is not in the same rig as a backup or cloud uploud em.


Definitely the best advice! Any cloud service you recommend?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> 
> Hey guys. Quick question. Monsoon economy hard line fittings. The small oring goes on the hex? It will fit on the inside of the tubing. It's the only place it will fit. But I feel like it will fall out of place when the system is running. Or am I crazy. Thank


little one goes around the Internal thread to seal the fitting to the block, big one goes around the tubing after the collar is pushed into it and there inside the collar itself is a nylon washer. Make sure you don't lose that because it protects the larger ring from damage when pushing the collar down to connect it to the base.

From tube to fitting. Nylon> LG Oring> Base > small Oring.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Definitely the best advice! Any cloud service you recommend?


I spoiler tagged it since its way off topic


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



pogoplug is the cheapest unlimited solution I know of. it is $29 a year.

I use "pogoplug pc" software. it cost me $29 bucks one time fee but it backs up my phone pictures automatically to a local server I built. That gives me a local cloud with the hdds in mirror im somewhat protected from hardware failure.

whenever I delete the pictures off my phone/sdcard I make 2nd backups of the pogoplug storage to an external drive. That way there is always 2 copies minimum.

The pogoplug app on my phone does all the backup automatically when i get on wifi. its been a decent non cloud solution. Using thier cloud would be easier.

I just like having control over it myself and not being stuck with a fee to keep from loosing my data.

www.pogoplug.com

As a ghetto free cloud storage google gives u 15gb google drive for every gmail account u create


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> little one goes around the Internal thread to seal the fitting to the block, big one goes around the tubing after the collar is pushed into it and there inside the collar itself is a nylon washer. Make sure you don't lose that because it protects the larger ring from damage when pushing the collar down to connect it to the base.
> 
> From tube to fitting. Nylon> LG Oring> Base > small Oring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry. There are two large orings and one small oring. That's why I was confused. Couldn't find any docs that's say what the small guy is for.
Maybe the small one does goes on the bottom. Hues I thought they seemed kinda small. Guess I'll find out during the week test. Cheers.


----------



## Ceadderman

Small or in is the seal between the block and the fitting. Economies only come with one and there aren't any more in the package.

Flip that fitting over and you'll see that it's missing the original you typically find pre-installed on the base.

The large one is for the internal of the fitting and you can only use one. Don't even try doubling them to secure your tube. It won't work an I know this because I tried. And if you look closely inside the collar you will find the nylon ring which is stuck to the inside of the collar. Don't lose it. Sometimes they are lose and drop out on their own. It's a protective ring.

I've got 12 of these economies. And have played around with them enough to know how things go.









~Ceadder


----------



## 8bitjunkie

so I have my tubing on the way mayhem ultra clear.

I was wondering how you felt about the mayhem die ,if I ever decide I want color.

Thanks


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> so I have my tubing on the way mayhem ultra clear.
> 
> I was wondering how you felt about the mayhem die ,if I ever decide I want color.
> 
> Thanks


It's the best stuff. Most popular choice around these parts. They also are the makers of the EK coolant so EK trusts them as well


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> so I have my tubing on the way mayhem ultra clear.
> 
> I was wondering how you felt about the mayhem die ,if I ever decide I want color.
> 
> Thanks


I've got the mayhems red die. I haven't used it yet but I also have the red xt-1 coolant. I believe this is Ethylene glycol based but I'm not sure. It's supposed to be for up to 3L but I can tell you that the color doesn't remain red for that volume. Mine looks purplish.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> It's the best stuff. Most popular choice around these parts. They also are the makers of the EK coolant so EK trusts them as well


Yea AFAIK, EK also uses mayhems blitz in their rads before selling them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

[/SPOILER][/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For simplicity,the D5 or DDC EK kit has everything you need,no duff parts and much room for expansion.
> 
> This is a good place to start.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-kit-x360
> 
> Buy some angled fittings too and you are set.
> Beware of PCB warp,get someone to machine you a shim or.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could do that but I really don't think it's necessary. That's actually not the reason the die guard was made...*it's designed so the PCb doesn't get pulled out of the socket when you pull the cooler off*... So in that sense it's a good idea but it has nothing to do with warp. The die is dead center of the PCb and under pressure against both the cooler and mobo so it's basically fused. The only way the die PCb is gonna warp is if the mobo warps. If that's the case, then you need to reevaluate the way you mount the mobo. That's just my understanding but as with anything else, I could be wrong. If you do decide to get someone to make this guard for you, definitely make sure it has the same thickness dimensions as the IHS.
> 
> This is really only necessary though if you are constantly mounting and unmounting the cooler. For most ppl this isn't a problem. You might as well use just the IHS since you'll have to remove the socket cover to use the MSI delid guard, anything similar will require that you do the same. Using the IHS is the best solution if you're not using the EK waterblock or use the naked ivy mounting kit if you are using the EK supremacy kit. It's $5 on PPC.com. Alternatively you can take a couple of shims that are the thickness of the IHS ledge and place them under the socket cover. That will put the same pressure on the die so it makes proper contact with all the socket pins and stays put when unmounting the cooler.
Click to expand...

No mention of that from MSI,they say its purely for die protection for heavy coolers and over tightening.

The socket wont warp easily, But the floating PCB with direct pressure in the center very much will...and does.


----------



## Faster_is_better

My order from Aquatuning will be here sometime today. 2 day shipping from Germany to west coast. My PPCS order placed at the same time, estimated to be here next Thursday and cost almost twice as much in shipping...

I guess UPS really do <3 Logistics? (lol)


----------



## Trestles126

Few goodies cables, and block came today. It's a ek supremacy elite 2011. To my knowledge the block is universal with hardware

Few questions seller stated I would need new hardware. But the ones he sent are the same as the ones on my other 1150 build. Same backplate and size.

Can Anyone agree? The 2011 bolts to my knowledge are smaller spacing on the knurled part.

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...B72D43EA-899B-4A57-AE33-EA69AEE5D56D.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...347EE3E2-CEA2-4AB3-974F-70ECC80C354C.jpg.html
http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...A8644FCC-1413-4F0A-98A2-68D93C693695.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...0CC67E34-6BF7-4CA8-AE12-5C05A26AF1B0.jpg.html


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> No mention of that from MSI,they say its purely for die protection for heavy coolers and over tightening.
> 
> The socket wont warp easily, But the floating PCB with direct pressure in the center very much will...and does.


It's not a floating pcb lol. Its' very much fused to the socket much the same way any ordinary cpu is

From an physics persepctive that's not really possible. The cooler is not putting direct pressure on the die in most cases.If it is that's a really bad cooler that shouldnt be on there because it should be very close or barely touching the IHS. Most people though, arent taking the IHS off their die, so it's as if you're cooling the same CPU as a stock cpu.

In special cases, people will take their cpu and use a special mounting kit. For instance, with the naked ivy kit, it puts enough pressure to ensure that the pcb pins make contact with the socket pins by holding the cooler just barely in contact with the die. This doesnt result in any bending. Ive had this for the past 8 months.

Plus the delid guard is a machined structure, and would be costly and expensive.

If for some reason you lost your IHS (which would be odd) you can go out and buy a G3258. It has the same IHS, and you'd have a spare 1150 cpu to run diagnostics if needed. God forbid.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Few goodies cables, and block came today. It's a ek supremacy elite 2011. To my knowledge the block is universal with hardware
> 
> Few questions seller stated I would need new hardware. But the ones he sent are the same as the ones on my other 1150 build. Same backplate and size.
> 
> Can Anyone agree? The 2011 bolts to my knowledge are smaller spacing on the knurled part.


Very nice!
They probably have different bolts for the 2011.., but im not sure. I got a couple different sets of bolts in my supremacy evo, and also have a naked ivy kit which has shorter bolts.
EK is great at consistency...


----------



## emsj86

For some ideAs. Outside a caselabs case what case would you build in right now if you were starting a fresh setup?


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Few goodies cables, and block came today. It's a ek supremacy elite 2011. To my knowledge the block is universal with hardware
> 
> Few questions seller stated I would need new hardware. But the ones he sent are the same as the ones on my other 1150 build. Same backplate and size.
> 
> Can Anyone agree? The 2011 bolts to my knowledge are smaller spacing on the knurled part.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...B72D43EA-899B-4A57-AE33-EA69AEE5D56D.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...347EE3E2-CEA2-4AB3-974F-70ECC80C354C.jpg.html
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...A8644FCC-1413-4F0A-98A2-68D93C693695.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...0CC67E34-6BF7-4CA8-AE12-5C05A26AF1B0.jpg.html


Yes, you're right! Those are 115x thumb screws, 2011 (-v3) should look like these:


*EDIT*: ...and if you do something, might as well do it right, right?!







(and by ''right'', I mean complete







)
Link to 2011 mounting hardware: http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-cpu-blocks/shopby/brand--ek-waterblocks/cpu-series--intel-2011-2011-3/?limit=90


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Yes, you're right! Those are 115x thumb screws, 2011 (-v3) should look like these:
> 
> 
> *EDIT*: ...and if you do something, might as well do it right, right?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and by ''right'', I mean complete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Link to 2011 mounting hardware: http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-cpu-blocks/shopby/brand--ek-waterblocks/cpu-series--intel-2011-2011-3/?limit=90


I needed the 1150 screws for my z97 zinger board thought I was gonna have to order them! So this is good news


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For some ideAs. Outside a caselabs case what case would you build in right now if you were starting a fresh setup?


What size? Guessing full tower if you are considering CL.

I would have a hard time passing on the Enthoo Primo, and there is the new Phanteks Enthoo MiniXL now, as well as the Luxe. Pretty much the most watercooling friendly aluminum cases available outside of CL.

Corsair (after years of requests) has finally put out the 750D airflow edition and that is an excellent case. The 760T is pretty much the same case with different exterior paneling.

Inwin 909 is worth a look but for me it still compromises too much radiator intake space for solid panel space.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

anyone ever seen a thick rad on the top of a R4.

a dude has a ek xtx 240mm (64mm thick) and a koolance 120mm for cheap locally.


----------



## Domler

Well gentlemen, (and ladies) first time hard tubing. Wish me luck. Just saw the frozencpu update. I live an hour away and could use a rad. Maybe a roadtrip tomarrow and see what's up. What do you say?


----------



## SteezyTN

Is anyone familiar with the bitswpoer D5 mod Kit. I'm using it for my XSPC D5 270 photon. I decided to order sleeved cables, and the cables are too big for the bottom part of the mod Kit.

I simply can't sleeve the cables through these holes separately.


Is it okay like this (without the bottom). I still feels secure.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is anyone familiar with the bitswpoer D5 mod Kit. I'm using it for my XSPC D5 270 photon. I decided to order sleeved cables, and the cables are too big for the bottom part of the mod Kit.
> 
> I simply can't sleeve the cables through these holes separately.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay like this (without the bottom). I still feels secure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Steezy, take the sleeve off, insert all cables through one of those holes and sleeve after mod kit has been installed onto the pump. Otherwise, yeah it will not fit! I'm using a PWM D5 with that exact Bitspower mod kit, which has extra cables and it fits, but it was sleeved after it was inserted.



best pic I have









*8bitjunkie*: I did a system for a friend of mine in a Define R4, some time ago and I used a H100i in the roof and I remember being very thight, maybe 55-60mm before the RAM are becoming a problem. I doubt you'll be able to fit 64mm rad + 25mm fans, unless it's possible to offset the rad. Cant recall 100%, perhaps you'll find more in the Fractal Define Owners Club Thread


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is anyone familiar with the bitswpoer D5 mod Kit. I'm using it for my XSPC D5 270 photon. I decided to order sleeved cables, and the cables are too big for the bottom part of the mod Kit.
> 
> I simply can't sleeve the cables through these holes separately.
> 
> 
> Is it okay like this (without the bottom). I still feels secure.


The kit is supposed to come with a molex pin removal tool so you can undo the connector and thread the cables through the holes before putting the connectors back on. Its p2rfectly fine to leave the rear cover off though


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Steezy, take the sleeve off, insert all cables through one of those holes and sleeve after mod kit has been installed onto the pump. Otherwise, yeah it will not fit! I'm using a PWM D5, which has extra cables and it fits, but it was sleeved after it was inserted.


Honestly, if it's okay without the bottom part, then I'll leave it like that. I'm going to be building in a SMA8, so I don't think the bottom will be seen. I screwed up the heat shrink on the molex cable, and I had to use electrical tape to fix it lol. I'm not comfortable using all that type of stuff and even removing the sleeving, so if it's okay without the bottom, I'll leave it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The kit is supposed to come with a molex pin removal tool so you can undo the connector and thread the cables through the holes before putting the connectors back on. Its p2rfectly fine to leave the rear cover off though


thats not the problem. I already removed the connectors, but the problem came when adding it to the cover. Because the sleeving is so big, I can't properly seat the bottom cover when I try and mount it to the pump.


----------



## Red1776

I am using them and like he said, strip them and sleeve after the fact. you might try using para-chord as well it looks a bit slimmer than what you have there. It fits through the back plate holes without any problems.

The brass deal on top is a molex pin remover he was referring to.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I am using them and like he said, strip them and sleeve after the fact. you might try using para-chord as well it looks a bit slimmer than what you have there. It fits through the back plate holes without any problems.
> The brass deal on top is a molex pin remover he was referring to.


Well done sir. Nice cables.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I am using them and like he said, strip them and sleeve after the fact. you might try using para-chord as well it looks a bit slimmer than what you have there. It fits through the back plate holes without any problems.
> The brass deal on top is a molex pin remover he was referring to.


well I've already removed the connectors. It's just that I don't want to remove the heatshrink and screw it all up. I paid $6 for that lol. The heatshrink is done pretty well at the base of the pump, and it looks like a pain to remove it. just as long as it covers the outer pump, then I'm fine.


----------



## Domler

Just overheard my wife talking to her sister about a possible roadtrip sat to Rochester. Gonna stop by frozencpu and see if any old employees are still around and get the skinny.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I've got the mayhems red die. I haven't used it yet but I also have the red xt-1 coolant. I believe this is Ethylene glycol based but I'm not sure. It's supposed to be for up to 3L but I can tell you that the color doesn't remain red for that volume. Mine looks purplish.
> *Yea AFAIK, EK also uses mayhems blitz in their rads before selling them*.


That is the first time I hear that information. Can you substantiate that in any form? Where did you hear or read about this?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I've got the mayhems red die. I haven't used it yet but I also have the red xt-1 coolant. I believe this is Ethylene glycol based but I'm not sure. It's supposed to be for up to 3L but I can tell you that the color doesn't remain red for that volume. Mine looks purplish.
> *Yea AFAIK, EK also uses mayhems blitz in their rads before selling them*.
> 
> 
> 
> That is the first time I hear that information. Can you substantiate that in any form? Where did you hear or read about this?
Click to expand...

Its the first time I too have heard this (mis)information.......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> No mention of that from MSI,they say its purely for die protection for heavy coolers and over tightening.
> 
> The socket wont warp easily, But the floating PCB with direct pressure in the center very much will...and does.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a floating pcb lol. Its' very much fused to the socket much the same way any ordinary cpu is
> 
> From an physics persepctive that's not really possible. The cooler is not putting direct pressure on the die in most cases.If it is that's a really bad cooler that shouldnt be on there because it should be very close or barely touching the IHS. Most people though, arent taking the IHS off their die, so it's as if you're cooling the same CPU as a stock cpu.
> 
> In special cases, people will take their cpu and use a special mounting kit. For instance, with the naked ivy kit, it puts enough pressure to ensure that the pcb pins make contact with the socket pins by holding the cooler just barely in contact with the die. This doesnt result in any bending. Ive had this for the past 8 months.
> 
> Plus the delid guard is a machined structure, and would be costly and expensive.
Click to expand...

Lol..

Its not fused to the socket in any way,because its not fixed (a la BGA) its considered a floating part,its clamped down by the ihs with even pressure around the _perimeter_ of the PCB,removing the IHS and swapping out for clamping pressure from the cooler from the _center_ leads to warping. Since the PCB has no pins it is very sensitive to warping and too much (or uneven) pressure results in no contact with pads. Subsequently you risk pad burnout.

This is not opinion,this happens.

Now,while your example has not,you must be aware that everyone is not you and you should always err on the side of caution when delivering information for others,especially on such a costly part. Im not saying the EK mount doesnt work,Im saying there is strength in depth when it comes to precautions.


----------



## TGBM

Thought I would drop in and post the final photos of my build Parvum Silver Bolts! Enjoy!

















If you want to see more and the build log check it out here!


----------



## Red1776

Very nice TG 









what is in the res? or is that just a photo effect?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the first time I too have heard this (mis)information.......
> Lol..
> 
> Its not fused to the socket in any way,because its not fixed (a la BGA) its considered a floating part,its clamped down by the ihs with even pressure around the _perimeter_ of the PCB,removing the IHS and swapping out for clamping pressure from the cooler from the _center_ leads to warping. Since the PCB has no pins it is very sensitive to warping and too much (or uneven) pressure results in no contact with pads. Subsequently you risk pad burnout.
> 
> This is not opinion,this happens.
> 
> Now,while your example has not,you must be aware that everyone is not you and you should always err on the side of caution when delivering information for others,especially on such a costly part. Im not saying the EK mount doesnt work,Im saying there is strength in depth when it comes to precautions.


Ah ok. I'll admit my mistake on the mayhems blitz. I misread the article here: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/14/mayhems-havoc-360mm-radiator-review/ that discussed the cleanliness of the rads. I thought it was pretreated but it appears it was not.

Regarding the floating PCb...
You're misunderstanding me even though I've explained already that in the vast majority of delid cases people reuse the IHS so it's as if it has not been removed. Unless you had an alternate mount who in their right mind would take the IHS off permanently? I advise you check out the delid thread of you have not already done so. People talk about their exact procedure and to post on the site you are required to post both your internal and external TIMs. Why would you think they'd ask that unless there was an IHS.

I know that it worked in my situation and that it's not indicative of everyone's case. It still seems rather far fetched and shows that that person clearly had no idea what they were doing mounting it in the first place...otherwise, the base die is barely supposed to make contact with the cooler. Not push up on it.

But i trust EK and don't believe they would put out a product without thorough testing. This goes double for something they know would automatically result in a voided warranty.

Just FYI I've delidded several chips so it's not exactly my first rodeo.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> It's not misinformation. I recall seeing that they preclran their rads with mayhem blitz prior to putting them on sale. Look it up.


I very much doubt that is true. The rads are cleaned but I'm sure they are either ultrasonically or chemically cleaned at the factory and there is no way they are using Mayhems Blitz to do it.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I very much doubt that is true. The rads are cleaned but I'm sure they are either ultrasonically or chemically cleaned at the factory and there is no way they are using Mayhems Blitz to do it.


Edited my post. I misread the article


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the first time I too have heard this (mis)information.......
> Lol..
> 
> Its not fused to the socket in any way,because its not fixed (a la BGA) its considered a floating part,its clamped down by the ihs with even pressure around the _perimeter_ of the PCB,removing the IHS and swapping out for clamping pressure from the cooler from the _center_ leads to warping. Since the PCB has no pins it is very sensitive to warping and too much (or uneven) pressure results in no contact with pads. Subsequently you risk pad burnout.
> 
> This is not opinion,this happens.
> 
> Now,while your example has not,you must be aware that everyone is not you and you should always err on the side of caution when delivering information for others,especially on such a costly part. Im not saying the EK mount doesnt work,Im saying there is strength in depth when it comes to precautions.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not misinformation. I recall seeing that they preclran their rads with mayhem blitz prior to putting them on sale. Look it up.
> 
> You're misunderstanding me even though I've explained already that in the vast majority of delid cases people reuse the IHS so it's as if it has not been removed. I advise you check out the delid thread of you have not already done so.
> 
> I know that it worked in my situation and that it's not indicative of everyone's case. But i trust EK and don't believe they would put out a product without thorough testing. This goes double for something they know would automatically result in a voided warranty.
> 
> Just FYI I've delidded several chips so it's not exactly my first rodeo.
Click to expand...

I have,no mention of EK using Blitz anywhere. Seeing as the OEM does the cleaning and not EK,Im guessing the absence of proof is proof enough. I will speak to Niko later about that.

EK have tested that mount very well,no doubts there and this not in question either.

And the warranty is already void the moment the IHS is removed,you dont get a warranty if the parts being used are on already voided hardware......


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have,no mention of EK using Blitz anywhere. Seeing as the OEM does the cleaning and not EK,Im guessing the absence of proof is proof enough. I will speak to Niko later about that.
> 
> EK have tested that mount very well,no doubts there and this not in question either.
> 
> And the warranty is already void the moment the IHS is removed,you dont get a warranty if the parts being used are on already voided hardware......


Yes as stated before it was an error. I thought the article said that it was precleaned in the factory. Who's niko?

Im well aware that it's already voided but I'm saying that EK wouldn't sell a product intentionally that they don't stand behind especially when the product it's being used on has no chance at an RMA if something goes wrong. I'm pretty sure bent PCb would fall under their umbrella of testing. Don't you?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yes as stated before it was an error. I thought the article said that it was precleaned in the factory.


I think you might be thinking of another article.....
as I do not recall ever writing anything of the kind


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I think you might be thinking of another article.....
> as I do not recall ever writing anything of the kind


Ok this point has been beat to death slready. I already admitted to having misread it 3x now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have,no mention of EK using Blitz anywhere. Seeing as the OEM does the cleaning and not EK,Im guessing the absence of proof is proof enough. I will speak to Niko later about that.
> 
> EK have tested that mount very well,no doubts there and this not in question either.
> 
> And the warranty is already void the moment the IHS is removed,you dont get a warranty if the parts being used are on already voided


Can you find any evidence of bent pcbs?
Even if by some freak accident the PCb gets bent, which unless you're really careless about it, is about as rare as getting hit by lightning, the CPU eill likely still work because the mounting of the cooler should place equal pressure on all sides to flatten it out.

Honestly the only way I could see this happening is if the mobo got bent as well... Then it no longer becomes a delid issue.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Very nice TG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what is in the res? or is that just a photo effect?


It's not a photo effect it's Mayhems Aurora Silver coolant and thanks for the feedback I'm really proud of it!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Thought I would drop in and post the final photos of my build Parvum Silver Bolts! Enjoy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/S
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> If you want to see more and the build log check it out here!


Excellent work my friend


----------



## VSG

After EK and XSPC, looks like Aquacomputer now has blocks for the AMD Fury X (and reference PCB Fury) cards:















Source

Single slot bracket included also as per the thread. I am interested in seeing if a single slot support and mostly copper block would stress the PCI-E slots in ATX/r-ATX layout.


----------



## JLMS2010

Very nice!


----------



## tiborrr12

... and I thought it going to be asian manufacturers copying the split flow system on a FC water block... What do they say about the sincerest form of flattering?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Source: Click


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> 
> 
> Source: Click


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Thought I would drop in and post the final photos of my build Parvum Silver Bolts! Enjoy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to see more and the build log check it out here!


Congrats getting on EK Facebook page


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Congrats getting on EK Facebook page


Well that was a very pleasant surprise!! Did a full jump and heel click!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Well that was a very pleasant surprise!! Did a full jump and heel click!


It's an awesome build, you should be proud


----------



## 8bitjunkie

well I have my idea set in stone now. going to start a build log soon.

My build is going to be R4i, the "i" is for industrial going to be a lot of black and chrome going on. The big aspect of the modding is going to get a 360 rad on the roof(inside the case) of this guy as well as the front ,720mm of watercooled bliss! with maybe an option of a 120 or 140 on the bottom.

going to have use existing hardware and soft tubing for now , budget reasons. but will upgrade in due time







still going to keep it z77 as I prefer it over z97.

so stay tuned and will drop a link when I get the log going.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> ... and I thought it going to be asian manufacturers copying the split flow system on a FC water block... What do they say about the sincerest form of flattering?


You cant deny thats a nice slab of Cu tho......

Sexually so....


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> It's an awesome build, you should be proud


I am very proud and amazed at how much positive resception the build has gotten I never thought it would reach the higher it has! This has really motivated me to keep doing this I already have designs for another and hope it will be as successful as this one has been!


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> I am very proud and amazed at how much positive resception the build has gotten I never thought it would reach the higher it has! This has really motivated me to keep doing this I already have designs for another and hope it will be as successful as this one has been!


it is additive ,watch out









gathering parts for my second custom now!

going to check out yours now.


----------



## emsj86

Does anyone know what this is found it on the side of the road


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Does anyone know what this is found it on the side of the road


not sure but that is a nice find! I found a penny today tails up









Grats.


----------



## Ceadderman

Is that the new ThermalTake?









I keed I keed. Just looking thru latest CPUmag reminded me of the issue.









Nice find.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

I gotta say today was a good day. Caselabs case new rad and parts. And if you don't know best cheese steaks in philly. Steaks and building my rig mmmmmmmmmm (insert drooling emote bc I don't know how)


----------



## crafty615

Quick question, exactly how much more would hard line cost compared to soft tubing?

and what fittings/acrylic tubing would you suggest?

I am doing my first water cooling rig, but since it's going in a desk, hard tubing would look much nicer and be way easier to route to the components.
I am doing hardline in the future no matter what, just trying to see if it is worth doing it now or not.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hard line is a tad more expensive 1:1. But the fittings are reasonably similar in cost unless you go with Barbs over Compression. You don't even *have* to bend if you choose to go the fitting route for connecting everything but angle fittings cost money. So a reasonably priced bending kit is another way to go too. It really is dependent on what you want can afford or wish to do.









I miss Philly... I was on the Wisconsin when she was dry docked outside the old Vet Stadium. Forget the place on South Street where I got my Steaks but they were Grubbin.









~Ceadder


----------



## Atham

Watercooling my style:


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hard line is a tad more expensive 1:1. But the fittings are reasonably similar in cost unless you go with Barbs over Compression. You don't even *have* to bend if you choose to go the fitting route for connecting everything but angle fittings cost money. So a reasonably priced bending kit is another way to go too. It really is dependent on what you want can afford or wish to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss Philly... I was on the Wisconsin when she was dry docked outside the old Vet Stadium. Forget the place on South Street where I got my Steaks but they were Grubbin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm actually getting bitspower hardline fittings for $6 a pop


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> It's not a photo effect it's Mayhems Aurora Silver coolant and thanks for the feedback I'm really proud of it!


It looks really good. I do recall they said something about aurora being for presentation purposes though and not for long term due to the varying density between the primary and the silverish fluid that gives the aurora effect. I can find the article but I do recall they said it wasn't for long term use.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1319252/mayhems-aurora-fluid-every-day-use

This is according to mayhems but reviews do say that you should be ok.


----------



## Ceadderman

My Monsoons cost less than that in Kit form. 6 for $28 and change. So about the same actually. My Chainguns are $10 more for 4. But they're quality.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> well I have my idea set in stone now. going to start a build log soon.
> 
> My build is going to be R4i, the "i" is for industrial going to be a lot of black and chrome going on. The big aspect of the modding is going to get a 360 rad on the roof(inside the case) of this guy as well as the front ,720mm of watercooled bliss! with maybe an option of a 120 or 140 on the bottom.
> 
> going to have use existing hardware and soft tubing for now , budget reasons. but will upgrade in due time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still going to keep it z77 as I prefer it over z97.
> 
> so stay tuned and will drop a link when I get the log going.


If you're going to upgrade either wait for x99 to go on Black Friday sale or wait for sky lake. No use in paying full price for haswell at this point

What case do you have again? If it's a corsair obsidian case it's a problem putting a rad in front unless you take the metal plate off or mod it. Just FYI


----------



## Ramzinho

I don't know why i've not shared this on this thread !!!


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> If you're going to upgrade either wait for x99 to go on Black Friday sale or wait for sky lake. No use in paying full price for haswell at this point
> 
> What case do you have again? If it's a corsair obsidian case it's a problem putting a rad in front unless you take the metal plate off or mod it. Just FYI


Define R4 hence the " R4i "

going to keep it z77 unless there is a huge performance boost in skylake. I only use my pc for gaming and gamemaker mostly , I am not a big believer in overkill. I do love modding so that is one reason I am going watercooling and like to get the most out of my hardware. also occasionally
I get in a benchmarking phase









Was only planing on changing my mobo to something more fitting for my build I have planned. I really like my extreme4 z77 but it matches nothing I have planned out, darn brown and gold lol .


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I don't know why i've not shared this on this thread !!!


I need those clips. Where did you find them?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hard line is a tad more expensive 1:1. But the fittings are reasonably similar in cost unless you go with Barbs over Compression. You don't even *have* to bend if you choose to go the fitting route for connecting everything but angle fittings cost money. So a reasonably priced bending kit is another way to go too. It really is dependent on what you want can afford or wish to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss Philly... I was on the Wisconsin when she was dry docked outside the old Vet Stadium. Forget the place on South Street where I got my Steaks but they were Grubbin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Jim Steaks corner 4th and south


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hard line is a tad more expensive 1:1. But the fittings are reasonably similar in cost unless you go with Barbs over Compression. You don't even *have* to bend if you choose to go the fitting route for connecting everything but angle fittings cost money. So a reasonably priced bending kit is another way to go too. It really is dependent on what you want can afford or wish to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss Philly... I was on the Wisconsin when she was dry docked outside the old Vet Stadium. Forget the place on South Street where I got my Steaks but they were Grubbin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jim Steaks corner 4th and south
Click to expand...

Possibly. All I remember is that I'd go there every chance I could for dinner before Goin clubbing. Can't club on an empty stomach.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Just put a new decal on the window. What you guys think?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hard line is a tad more expensive 1:1. But the fittings are reasonably similar in cost unless you go with Barbs over Compression. You don't even *have* to bend if you choose to go the fitting route for connecting everything but angle fittings cost money. So a reasonably priced bending kit is another way to go too. It really is dependent on what you want can afford or wish to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss Philly... I was on the Wisconsin when she was dry docked outside the old Vet Stadium. Forget the place on South Street where I got my Steaks but they were Grubbin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


South street probably was Jim steaks. Now genos and pats our the ones everyone from outside philly knows and comes to and there good by there a few hidden gems that most outsiders don't know. Like in any city. On topic though does anyone know if a 240 flex bay rad mount and a single flex 120 rad mount work together to mount a 360 rad or do I need to buy the 360 mount


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I need those clips. Where did you find them?


Custom laser cut acrylic by a friend.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Custom laser cut acrylic by a friend.


Are they willing to sell them? I can't find them as they seem to be OOS everywhere


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hard line is a tad more expensive 1:1. But the fittings are reasonably similar in cost unless you go with Barbs over Compression. You don't even *have* to bend if you choose to go the fitting route for connecting everything but angle fittings cost money. So a reasonably priced bending kit is another way to go too. It really is dependent on what you want can afford or wish to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss Philly... I was on the Wisconsin when she was dry docked outside the old Vet Stadium. Forget the place on South Street where I got my Steaks but they were Grubbin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> South street probably was Jim steaks. Now genos and pats our the ones everyone from outside philly knows and comes to and there good by there a few hidden gems that most outsiders don't know. Like in any city. On topic though does anyone know if a 240 flex bay rad mount and a single flex 120 rad mount work together to mount a 360 rad or do I need to buy the 360 mount
Click to expand...

A 240 mount.should support a 360 with no problems. I'm using Swiftech 240 Radiator stands to mount my 360s. One stand per Rad. Gonna drill the stand portion through and rivet them into place with offset alignment to keep them stable.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wolfsbora

Here's a shot of the finished loop. Still need to figure out how to get rid of those ugly red cables...


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Here's a shot of the finished loop. Still need to figure out how to get rid of those ugly red cables


if your felling brave, you could dye them black.

I did my cables on my nes build , they came out nice.

Ill drop a link later when i get to my pc.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Here's a shot of the finished loop. Still need to figure out how to get rid of those ugly red cables...


Beautiful lines.
If you aren't up to sleeving yourself, cablemod do extension for many brand, including EVGA.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> if your felling brave, you could dye them black.
> 
> I did my cables on my nes build , they came out nice.
> 
> Ill drop a link later when i get to my pc.


I've never considered doing that before. I'll take a look at the link when you post it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Beautiful lines.
> If you aren't up to sleeving yourself, cablemod do extension for many brand, including EVGA.


Thank you! I've always been a fan of your Panda build. It was fun following that build log. Believe it or not, those are extensions from the GPUs to the red cables. I shrunk the red cables down to about 6" by soldering and then wrapping the soldered ends in heatshrink.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I've never considered doing that before. I'll take a look at the link when you post it!
> .


if you need any help if this is something you might consider doing just ask









before
http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/nes pc/IMG_20150301_110538_zpssypkx4zf.jpg.html
http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/nes pc/IMG_20150113_160513_zpsbsmvfcbd.jpg.html

after
http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/nes pc/IMG_20150406_162548_zps6zweeotr.jpg.html
http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/DSC_0131_zpsrq2pcwys.jpg.html


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> if you need any help if this is something you might consider doing just ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/nes pc/IMG_20150301_110538_zpssypkx4zf.jpg.html
> http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/nes pc/IMG_20150113_160513_zpsbsmvfcbd.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> after
> http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/nes pc/IMG_20150406_162548_zps6zweeotr.jpg.html
> http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/DSC_0131_zpsrq2pcwys.jpg.html


Now I remember your build! Definitely my favorite NES build I've seen so far!







I actually sleeved my 24 pin and it came out really well but I couldn't physically do any more than that (my right arm is messed up, amongst other things). Your solution is pretty awesome!


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Now I remember your build! Definitely my favorite NES build I've seen so far!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually sleeved my 24 pin and it came out really well but I couldn't physically do any more than that (my right arm is messed up, amongst other things). Your solution is pretty awesome!


Thanks

At first I wanted sleeving and slowly realized it would of added to much bulk to the cable so I went this route. It was scary but worked out good.

edit- only cost 3 bucks too


----------



## Wolfsbora

Definitely worthwhile! It came out perfect on your build.


----------



## crafty615

So I am super confused by bitspowers labeling on PPCS...

I don't know what fittings are compatible with what acrylic tubing etc. There's like 3 different black fittings the same size but all different price and then theres non-champher crystal link and normal crystal link...

I'm all sorts of confused please help


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> At first I wanted sleeving and slowly realized it would of added to much bulk to the cable so I went this route. It was scary but worked out good.
> 
> edit- only cost 3 bucks too


Think this should do the trick?


----------



## Ceadderman

PlastiDip them in the color of choice maybe?









~Ceadder


----------



## MaLiXs

This is my junkyard pc!










Envoyé de mon klte en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Think this should do the trick?


I tried the liquid the first round did not work so good. So I tried the powder form with good results.

It took 3 days to get them the desired darkness. your results may be quicker. I feel that these cables had a waxing layer to penetrate through, could of slowed down the process.

http://www.moodfabrics.com/rit-black-box-dye-300004.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KEQjwoIitBRDTgeiZq93F2LQBEiQAMfXL0ezN-1xdrNipatPLex0PENqL4z_N8jNmyv7G1AdGkB0aAnyR8P8HAQ


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> I tried the liquid the first round did not work so good. So I tried the powder form with good results.
> 
> It took 3 days to get them the desired darkness. your results may be quicker. I feel that these cable kinda had a waxing layer to penetrate through, could of slowed down the process.


One idea is to use steel wool and scuff up the cables a bit to create a rough surface. That might help. This pretty much goes without saying but don't dip the cables end to end lol

One other thing you could consider is getting black masking or duct tape. It'd be difficult to individually sleeve though


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I'm looking to build a 'cased' test bench setup and the Mercury s5 and s8 caught my eye. I want it completely covered but here's the thing: I want to be able to mount 2x 280 by 45mm rads. I know this is possible with the s8 but does anyone know if it's work with the s5? I know I can buy a pedestal for it but that kinda defeats the purpose.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just rewire the loom with black cable...job done.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaLiXs*
> 
> This is my junkyard pc!


20 points for use of electrical tape to mount SSD.
15 points for use of ziptie on 80mm gpu vrm fan.
5 points for use of Noctua Khaki/brown fan.
-5 points for competent use of soft tubing.
-5 points for matching RAM color to MB PCH/VRM heastinks.

Good work!


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 20 points for use of electrical tape to mount SSD.
> 15 points for use of ziptie on 80mm gpu vrm fan.
> 5 points for use of Noctua Khaki/brown fan.
> -5 points for competent use of soft tubing.
> -5 points for matching RAM color to MB PCH/VRM heastinks.
> 
> Good work!


It would look great if it wasn't for the electrical tape. Do yourself a favor and get some double sided tape lolol. ghetto rigging ssds. I love it!


----------



## 8bitjunkie

I like this stuff ,could mount 3.5" drives with it if you wanted too!

http://www.truevalue.com/assets/product_images/styles/xlarge/514784.jpg


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 20 points for use of electrical tape to mount SSD.
> 15 points for use of ziptie on 80mm gpu vrm fan.
> 5 points for use of Noctua Khaki/brown fan.
> -5 points for competent use of soft tubing.
> -5 points for matching RAM color to MB PCH/VRM heastinks.
> 
> Good work!


no points for cooling a gpu and cpu with a single 240mm rad ? would have thought it went one way or the other on that one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bare 80's steel gets me hot......

And from the UK Judge?

100 points for the insulation tape
50 points for mounting the HDD directly under a tottering rad,class work.
and 50 extra points for the jury rigged fan.

-25 for the half decent PSU
-50 for not using gaffer tape instead of the lower spec insulation tape.
-50 For the fan noted for its fugly,melted down prosthetic limb looks and overrated performance.

So thats 75 points from London.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Thoughts on an evga hydrocopper block for a 780ti classy.

how bad is it compared to The EK block. Should I stay away or if the deal is good enough jump on it?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Thoughts on an evga hydrocopper block for a 780ti classy.
> 
> how bad is it compared to The EK block. Should I stay away or if the deal is good enough jump on it?


Unless I'm mistaken the hydro copper version is standard PCb size. It wouldn't fit on the oversized PCb of any classy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> no points for cooling a gpu and cpu with a single 240mm rad ? would have thought it went one way or the other on that one.


If it's a beater gpu then no points awarded lol. But if it's any iteration of a Ti or gtx -80 then 50 points.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

They make them, I read they are made by Swiftech


----------



## Brulf

So I got the new loop all done and whilst waiting for the paracord and gpu backplate to show up I noticed something with this mayhems purple I'm running....


Day one



Day three

Does the dye normally lose that much vibrancy in three days... Just thought it was a little strange


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> So I got the new loop all done and whilst waiting for the paracord and gpu backplate to show up I noticed something with this mayhems purple I'm running....
> 
> 
> Day one
> 
> 
> 
> Day three
> 
> Does the dye normally lose that much vibrancy in three days... Just thought it was a little strange


It's either uv dye that only shows up under uv light. VERY UNLIKELY.

OR

there may have been a large volume of distiller water that was sitting there that remained unmixed and over time mixed with this dye and caused it to dilute.

That's all i got


----------



## Domler

Hey guys. Need your opinion. Thinking about switching my single d5 vario to http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump-white.html with the heat sink. Or should I buy two single pumps and buy a dual top. I have only used d5 and want two pumps and the size seems much better for my needs. Don't want to spend the money if I'm taking a loss in performance. But I notice a lot of you guys use ddc. Thought as?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Hey guys. Need your opinion. Thinking about switching my single d5 vario to http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump-white.html with the heat sink. Or should I buy two single pumps and buy a dual top. I have only used d5 and want two pumps and the size seems much better for my needs. Don't want to spend the money if I'm taking a loss in performance. But I notice a lot of you guys use ddc. Thought as?


I was in your position. I had a D5 for years and bought the MCP35x2 because i got a deal on it. Both is a strong pump for it needs, but the DDC is loud in 50% + speed. Meanwhile, the D5 (or vario) is still quiet in full speed.

IMO, keep the D5. You want more headpressure? Buy another D5 + serial top.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> So I am super confused by bitspowers labeling on PPCS...
> 
> I don't know what fittings are compatible with what acrylic tubing etc. There's like 3 different black fittings the same size but all different price and then theres non-champher crystal link and normal crystal link...
> 
> I'm all sorts of confused please help


I know questions like this are easily lost in this thread







but could anyone help? I am super confused and going to be ordering soon


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I know questions like this are easily lost in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but could anyone help? I am super confused and going to be ordering soon


This is all you need. http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-bitspower-g1-4-silver-shining-enhance-multi-link-for-acrylic-tube-od-12mm.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Domler View Post
> 
> Hey guys. Need your opinion. Thinking about switching my single d5 vario to http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump-white.html with the heat sink. Or should I buy two single pumps and buy a dual top. I have only used d5 and want two pumps and the size seems much better for my needs. Don't want to spend the money if I'm taking a loss in performance. But I notice a lot of you guys use ddc. Thought as?
> 
> I was in your position. I had a D5 for years and bought the MCP35x2 because i got a deal on it. Both is a strong pump for it needs, but the DDC is loud in 50% + speed. Meanwhile, the D5 (or vario) is still quiet in full speed.
> 
> IMO, keep the D5. You want more headpressure? Buy another D5 + serial top.


Why do you need two pumps to begin with? Are you running 4 way SLI? I have 2 980s a cpu 10mm ID rigid tubing, an incredibly restrictive aquacomputer filter, four rads AND at least 20 90 degree bends (if not more) and yet my single D5 is still powerful enough to push through all of that.

All you need is a single D5. People complain that the D5 puts heat into the pump. Thats what any pump does, and the DDC is loud as I understand. Ive never used it but when i first started watercooling, the experts and ppl who have been in the game all said and use the D5, and for good reason.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> They make them, I read they are made by Swiftech


Wait... I thought they were made by EK? Does EVGA go both ways? lol

Edited: It turned out this was correct. They do switch it up from time to time -Lowest bidder wins I guess..


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Wait... I thought they were made by EK? Does EVGA go both ways? lol


not sure? I'll try to locate the source on who makes it again.

I did some researching and if the price is right I will be getting it.


----------



## VSG

The GTX 780 Classified Hydrocopper was via Swiftech. The switch to EK happened later.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I know questions like this are easily lost in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but could anyone help? I am super confused and going to be ordering soon


Get non chambered acrylic crystal with 12mm od/10mm ID

Many more options in fittings. The PETG is a pain to work with. It's softer and easier to bend but in my experience 3 builds later it's easy to distort and a lot harder to put ur 45 chambered edge on it with ur tool.

Save urself the hassle and buy the monsoon 1/2 inch mabdrwl kit I know money is often tire with younger guys but it's worth it and will save money in the long run.

U can also find the 45 degree simple chamber tool and the exact hack saw at ur local harbor freight for cheap


----------



## wermad

Powercolor has carried ek blocks for a while now. Asus did their Ares 3 w/ ek (vs an aio) and evga has moved on to them from swiftech. I'm expecting a Fury X x2 Ares IV to have another block from ek







and EVGA GTX 990 Ti HC too (????)


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The GTX 780 Classified Hydrocopper was via Swiftech. The switch to EK happened later.


Are you sure? The Titan Z hydrocopper was by EK, and I thought it came out before the 780
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I know questions like this are easily lost in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but could anyone help? I am super confused and going to be ordering soon


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Get non chambered acrylic crystal with 12mm od/10mm ID
> 
> Many more options in fittings. The PETG is a pain to work with. It's softer and easier to bend but in my experience 3 builds later it's easy to distort and a lot harder to put ur 45 chambered edge on it with ur tool.
> 
> Save urself the hassle and buy the monsoon 1/2 inch mabdrwl kit I know money is often tire with younger guys but it's worth it and will save money in the long run.
> 
> U can also find the 45 degree simple chamber tool and the exact hack saw at ur local harbor freight for cheap


One other thing, theres something I read about PETG breaking down in uv light (which includes sunlight lol) It also breaks down in the presence of Ethlyene glycol to my recollection (This is present in some coolants)

Get Acrylic - it is not brittle in any way if you bend it right. I used to think this too. You dont need a bending jig, All you need is a heatgun and these fittings http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bitspower+rigid+compression You dont need anything fancy. The ones that are $5.95 work fine. You also need nonchamfered crystal link tube http://www.performance-pcs.com/rigid-hard-tubing/shopby/brand--bitspower/

Most importantly in terms of consistency, Choose whatever diameter you want, but make sure that the tubing OD and the compression fitting is consistent. Also, keep the fittings and tubing consistent. Dont use primochill tubing with bitspower fittings. They wont work/

If youre going acrylic you also need a hacksaw, heatgun, and pipe reamer. and some sandpaper and perhaps a file. But sandpaper for sure. Lastly, if youre doing this, you can choose to go one of two routes, or a mix. Getting 90 degree fittings and using straight runs vs. bending the tubing in lieu of the fittings.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I know questions like this are easily lost in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but could anyone help? I am super confused and going to be ordering soon


The different prices on the fittings are just nicer finished go with the cheap blacks not worth the 4 more dollars for the black sparkling or the other one forget the name carbon I think


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Are you sure? The Titan Z hydrocopper was by EK, and I thought it came out before the 780


GTX 780 (non Ti) came in in a few months after the og Titan in 2013 (~may/june). Titan Z came out after Titan BE (~may 2014).

edit: timeline:

GTX 680
GTX Titan
GTX 780
GTX 780 Ti
GTX Titan BE
GTX Titan Z
GTX 980
GTX Titan X
GTX 980 Ti
GTX 990 Ti (???







)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Are you sure? The Titan Z hydrocopper was by EK, and I thought it came out before the 780


Yes, I am sure. Also, Titan-Z is dual Titan Black which came out after the 780Ti which in turn came out after the 780.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> The different prices on the fittings are just nicer finished go with the cheap blacks not worth the 4 more dollars for the black sparkling or the other one forget the name carbon I think


Yep. Some people wamt the special fittings for consistency but as long as youre willing to go silver you can save some cash


----------



## Wirerat

I went back to the d5 with standard top in my sons rig. Temps are just as good as the ddc now.

I got rid of the d5 res top and went with a larger stand alone CTR res. The added water in the loop is ether offsetting the heat the d5 dumps or the other res/top was causing the higher water temp.

I think it was the latter.

So much easier to fill with all that res. Barely had room for the D5 though.

This definitely a function over form type of build but my 9 year old son loves it. He argued with me for days to get that case. I knew it would suck to water cool in and it did.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I went back to the d5 with standard top in my sons rig. Temps are just as good as the ddc now.
> 
> I got rid of the d5 res top and went with a larger stand alone CTR res. The added water in the loop is ether offsetting the heat the d5 dumps or the other res/top was causing the higher water temp.
> 
> I think it was the latter.
> 
> So much easier to fill with all that res. Barely had room for the D5 though.
> 
> This definitely a function over form type of build but my 9 year old son loves it. He argued with me for days to get that case. I knew it would suck to water cool in and it did.


It wouldve been easier with an externally mounted reservoir. Thats what those two rubber grommets are for.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> It wouldve been easier with an externally mounted reservoir. Thats what those two rubber grommets are for.


yea In hindsight I would have just got a mora rad and mounted hidden in the desk sonewhere else. After I got the front cages out and the 360mm in the front it wasnt too bad. That res is mounted on a modified ek 120mm bracket that came with a dcp pump.

its the old res in the pic but the bracket is there.


The biggest problem was trying to keep wiring hidden. There is no where for it to go. The ssd are mounted in pcie slots. They wobt even fit behind the mobo tray at all lol.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yea In hindsight I would have just got a mora and mounted hid in the desk sonewhere else. After i got the front cages out and the 360mm in the front it wasnt to bad. That res is mounted on a modified ek 120mm bracket that came with a dcp pump.
> 
> its the okd res in the pic but the bracket is there.


The original mount that comes with the res can be mounted without screws. You need the 3M 'fastners that are like velcro but way stronger for the reservoir hooks. and they work almost as wel as screws. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Fasteners-RFD7091/dp/B00JDT0HV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436717142&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+fastener

Theyre pretty cheap. You can still remap your loop. You'll be glad you did/


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Originally Posted by crafty615 View Post
> 
> So I am super confused by bitspowers labeling on PPCS...
> 
> I don't know what fittings are compatible with what acrylic tubing etc. There's like 3 different black fittings the same size but all different price and then theres non-champher crystal link and normal crystal link...
> 
> I'm all sorts of confused please help confused.gif
> 
> I know questions like this are easily lost in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but could anyone help? I am super confused and going to be ordering soon


Bitspower acrylic fittings;

Chrome (or silver shinning) - http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-finish--chrome/fitting-size--10mm-12mm/?limit=90

Black chrome (black sparkle) - http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-finish--black-chrome/fitting-size--10mm-12mm/?limit=90

Matte black - http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-finish--matte-black--carbon-black/fitting-size--10mm-12mm/?limit=90

Red - http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-finish--red-chrome/fitting-size--10mm-12mm/?limit=90

These are all 12mm OD, so they will fit any 12 mm acrylic tubing. There is a "carbon black" Enhance multi link and is included in the matte black bunch I linked. Dunno what that is all about, perhaps a semi-glossy black or a typo on the page, but there is just one single fitting, so I wouldn't bother too much with that.
So, there you go! It's not that confusing at all, the more you research and look at work logs the easier it will become to know which part you're dealing with.

Regarding buying chamfer tubing, makes no difference which one you get. At some point you'll have to cut it and chamfer that cut yourself. All you need is some different grit sand paper: 120, 240, 400 and maybe 600 if you wanna go real crazy on it ( like I did







). Cut the tubing to appropriate length and use the sandpaper to slightly round the edge a mm or two.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> The original mount that comes with the res can be mounted without screws. You need the 3M 'fastners that are like velcro but way stronger for the reservoir hooks. and they work almost as wel as screws. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Fasteners-RFD7091/dp/B00JDT0HV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436717142&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+fastener
> 
> Theyre pretty cheap. You can still remap your loop. You'll be glad you did/


I have unlimited amounts of super velcro and standard velcro from my job.

I was mostly complaining about the lack of space for wiring in a case like that. I could not even fit 3 ssd behind the mobo cause of so much wire and no space.

Im happy with the temps now the loop will stay untill I swap out the tubing in 6 months or so.

Maybe I will buy/build him a new desk a move to bigger case then.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I have unlimited amounts of super velcro and standard velcro from my job.
> 
> I was mostly complaining about the lack of space for wiring in a case like that. I could not even fit 3 ssd behind the mobo cause of so much wire and no space.
> 
> Im happy with the temps now the loop will stay untill I swap out the tubing in 6 months or so.
> 
> Maybe I will buy/build him a new desk a move to bigger case then.


Yea if you stick with the same case I would seriously consider externally mounting that res. It's better in smaller cases. Frankly I dont understand why more people dont do it. Its way easier to fill and bleed.

If you switch, Everyone says caselabs cases are worth it. Just my two cents/


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea if you stick with the same case I would seriously consider externally mounting that res. It's better in smaller cases. Frankly I dont understand why more people dont do it. Its way easier to fill and bleed.
> 
> If you switch you should save up for something from caselabs. I havent ever ownedf one but Everyone says theyre worth it. Just my two cents/


well my son is only 9 years old. He hates the way the cases I drool over look. So maybe when hes older he is building them himself he will see the value in a case like that.

I have no problem filling that res though. It has extra ports on top so I just add a barb and a tube and fills very easy.

It drains easy too. i just tale the screws out and poor it out like a glass. (soft tubing maintenance).

I was going to drill a hole in the case but I have room for my trusty fill tube that a funnel shoved into one end.









I was very close to adding an external rad. I had crappy temps for a 970 + 4770k on 120mmx4. I thinks it is sorted now though.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> well my son is only 9 years old. He hates the way the cases I drool over look. So maybe when hes older he is building them himself he will see the value in a case like that.
> 
> I have no problem filling that res though. It has extra ports on top so I just add a barb and a tube and fills very easy.
> 
> I was going to drill a hole in the case but I have room for my trusty fill tube that a funnel shoved into one end.


Yea i have no idea why but it feels like I can never get all the bubbles out unless I tip the case forward and fill from the top rad... Weird.

Anyway that's the reason I recommend it to everyone


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea i have no idea why but it feels like I can never get all the bubbles out unless I tip the case forward and fill from the top rad... Weird.
> 
> Anyway that's the reason I recommend it to everyone


it takes a day or two. This one bleeds easy. it has both rads mounted vertical. Its more difficult when a rad is mounted over the res imo.

My other loop the whole loop is higher than the res. takes a few days for it to bleed and temps to stabilize.

I appreciate the advice.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> it takes a day or two. This one bleeds easy. it has both rads mounted vertical. Its more difficult when a rad is mounted over the res imo.
> 
> My other loop the whole loop is higher than the res. takes a few days for it to bleed and temps to stabilize.
> 
> I appreciate the advice.


Yea no prob. Just trying to help. The air was stuck there even after 2 weeks so I drained and refilled from the top.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Bitspower acrylic fittings;
> 
> Chrome (or silver shinning) - http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-finish--chrome/fitting-size--10mm-12mm/?limit=90
> 
> Black chrome (black sparkle) - http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-finish--black-chrome/fitting-size--10mm-12mm/?limit=90
> 
> Matte black - http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-finish--matte-black--carbon-black/fitting-size--10mm-12mm/?limit=90
> 
> Red - http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-finish--red-chrome/fitting-size--10mm-12mm/?limit=90
> 
> These are all 12mm OD, so they will fit any 12 mm acrylic tubing. There is a "carbon black" Enhance multi link and is included in the matte black bunch I linked. Dunno what that is all about, perhaps a semi-glossy black or a typo on the page, but there is just one single fitting, so I wouldn't bother too much with that.
> So, there you go! It's not that confusing at all, the more you research and look at work logs the easier it will become to know which part you're dealing with.
> 
> Regarding buying chamfer tubing, makes no difference which one you get. At some point you'll have to cut it and chamfer that cut yourself. All you need is some different grit sand paper: 120, 240, 400 and maybe 600 if you wanna go real crazy on it ( like I did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Cut the tubing to appropriate length and use the sandpaper to slightly round the edge a mm or two.


Thank you! I was thinking of doing 16mm tubing, or is that too thick?


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Thank you! I was thinking of doing 16mm tubing, or is that too thick?


You're the only one who can answer that! Personally, I don't like tubing that thick, but others do. If you like, well..... you like it, no one can tell you it doesn't look good







. From a cooling performance stand point, it makes no meaningful difference. I use 12 mm OD in a 750D and I like the way it looks. I don't think I'd go over ~12mm or about 1/2 inch regardless of which case I used.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> You're the only one who can answer that! Personally, I don't like tubing that thick, but others do. If you like, well..... you like it, no one can tell you it doesn't look good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . From a cooling performance stand point, it makes no meaningful difference. I use 12 mm OD in a 750D and I like the way it looks. I don't think I'd go over ~12mm or about 1/2 inch regardless of which case I used.


Mine is going in a desk build so I'm just worried about it looking too small since the desk is bigger than a case haha, I originally had 1/2 x 3/4 soft tubing picked out so I think 16mm is close to that.

But anyway thanks for the help! And thanks to all others who posed replies to my questions


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I'm looking to build a 'cased' test bench setup and the Mercury s5 and s8 caught my eye. I want it completely covered but here's the thing: I want to be able to mount 2x 280 by 45mm rads. I know this is possible with the s8 but does anyone know if it's work with the s5? I know I can buy a pedestal for it but that kinda defeats the purpose.


Hey man, the 45mm rad thickness is definitely not a restriction, and yes it is possible, just make sure to get the 140.2 option when checking out. I'm 99.9% sure this would work, to double check ask in the Case Labs owners club.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Some day shots of the grey matter with the front panel 98% done (still missing the caselabs logo and while working on it a small piece of paint flake out...







) and tubing also 98% done (just missing a small tube between reservoir and T.


----------



## Ceadderman

You need a logo? Pretty sure that everyone knows that's a CaseLabs.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You need a logo? Pretty sure that everyone knows that's a CaseLabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


I dun know. it looks a lot like one of those thermaltake cases to me.

..........................


----------



## Ceadderman

lol

Kinda sucks that this is even an issue. I saw a couple of ads pushing cases in latest issue of CPU. One ThermalFake and one Fractal. There is *maybe* 4 pages between them. Same looks same view of them same angle. For the uninformed they both look exactly alike.

I gave them both a casual glance and said yup they're the same. But then I looked again. The TF case is missing the door LED. It's side fins on the door are level to the exterior and the finger zone is bigger. Where the side panel differs is TF's top goes down to the top of the door.

Even so, it's a blatant ripoff of Fractal's case. Sure their interior *could* be setup differently, but that's not what catches the eye of the consumer. So long as there are at least three 3.5 bays and two 5.25 bays and the case will hold a standard ATX, PSU and has room for an enthuiast GPU the noob will purchase the cheaper of the two. Pretty unscrupulous imho. TF used to make some really nice looking cases and not too long ago, without pilfering anyone else's look. Now they're actively stealing another competitors look to profit from it. Uncool.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> Kinda sucks that this is even an issue. I saw a couple of ads pushing cases in latest issue of CPU. One ThermalFake and one Fractal. There is *maybe* 4 pages between them. Same looks same view of them same angle. For the uninformed they both look exactly alike.
> 
> I gave them both a casual glance and said yup they're the same. But then I looked again. The TF case is missing the door LED. It's side fins on the door are level to the exterior and the finger zone is bigger. Where the side panel differs is TF's top goes down to the top of the door.
> 
> Even so, it's a blatant ripoff of Fractal's case. Sure their interior *could* be setup differently, but that's not what catches the eye of the consumer. So long as there are at least three 3.5 bays and two 5.25 bays and the case will hold a standard ATX, PSU and has room for an enthuiast GPU the noob will purchase the cheaper of the two. Pretty unscrupulous imho. TF used to make some really nice looking cases and not too long ago, without pilfering anyone else's look. Now they're actively stealing another competitors look to profit from it. Uncool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Fully agree. In fact we should schedule a day of protest and everybody using the same avatar that B Neg. Love it. TT research center: a copy center.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> Kinda sucks that this is even an issue. I saw a couple of ads pushing cases in latest issue of CPU. One ThermalFake and one Fractal. There is *maybe* 4 pages between them. Same looks same view of them same angle. For the uninformed they both look exactly alike.
> 
> I gave them both a casual glance and said yup they're the same. But then I looked again. The TF case is missing the door LED. It's side fins on the door are level to the exterior and the finger zone is bigger. Where the side panel differs is TF's top goes down to the top of the door.
> 
> Even so, it's a blatant ripoff of Fractal's case. Sure their interior *could* be setup differently, but that's not what catches the eye of the consumer. So long as there are at least three 3.5 bays and two 5.25 bays and the case will hold a standard ATX, PSU and has room for an enthuiast GPU the noob will purchase the cheaper of the two. Pretty unscrupulous imho. TF used to make some really nice looking cases and not too long ago, without pilfering anyone else's look. Now they're actively stealing another competitors look to profit from it. Uncool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


And repped.


----------



## Ceadderman

lol

What's sadder still, is that TF spends money putting out a special edition case that nobody in their right mind would buy and put a $1300 pricetag on it.

T10 Titanium?!?









Does anyone over there know that the reason they are not selling well because their QC Team went on permanent holiday?









Maybe they need to have their frustrated consumers assault them with their inferiorily built components en masse. Because I don't see things changing for the better anytime soon. I have a few things I'd love to return.









~Ceadder


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I went back to the d5 with standard top in my sons rig. Temps are just as good as the ddc now.
> 
> I got rid of the d5 res top and went with a larger stand alone CTR res. The added water in the loop is ether offsetting the heat the d5 dumps or the other res/top was causing the higher water temp.
> 
> I think it was the latter.
> 
> So much easier to fill with all that res. Barely had room for the D5 though.
> 
> This definitely a function over form type of build but my 9 year old son loves it. He argued with me for days to get that case. I knew it would suck to water cool in and it did.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What coolant are you using? I like the look of that green


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> What coolant are you using? I like the look of that green


It is distilled water with 5% automotive coolant that has green uv. I think the color u see is just the res though.

This is the uv green res.


Here is the same coolant in a clear res. It still glows but not as bright and doesnt have the same hue in bright lighting.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> It is distilled water with 5% automotive coolant that has green uv. I think the color u see is just the res though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the uv green res.
> 
> 
> Here is the same coolant in a clear res. It still glows but not as bright and doesnt have the same hue in bright lighting.


Ohhh, I see, I'm just torn between UV green mayhem dye and emerald green mayhem dye


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Ohhh, I see, I'm just torn between UV green mayhem dye and emerald green mayhem dye


I have not graduated to the use of dyes just yet. lol

I only built my first custom loop in January. Then done this rig immediately after because I had a pump and cpu block left over after changing my mind on my main.

Both my rigs are soft tubing too. I find myself tweaking or upgrading far to often go rigid for now.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I have not graduated to the use of dyes just yet. lol
> 
> I only built my first custom loop in January. Then done this rig immediately after because I had a pump and cpu block left over after changing my mind on my main.
> 
> Both my rigs are soft tubing too. I find myself tweaking or upgrading far to often go rigid for now.


yeah, I hope i'm not in over my head haha. I am building my first water cooled rig, but I dont like the idea of spending money now just to spend more later to upgrade, so i'm doing individually picked parts, and rigid tube, and dye haha.

Hopefully it all goes well


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> yeah, I hope i'm not in over my head haha. I am building my first water cooled rig, but I dont like the idea of spending money now just to spend more later to upgrade, so i'm doing individually picked parts, and rigid tube, and dye haha.
> 
> Hopefully it all goes well


You are brave to go Rigid on the first attempt. I built my first loop
and in less than a month I made changes to the cpu block and Pump / Res. Then I made another Res change and GPU upgrade lol.

What I done is rather common. its difficult to know what you like in the very beginning.


----------



## natsu2014

I'm done







No more changes for me for the time being


----------



## Wolfsbora

I will say that doing my first loop with acrylic made me learn the importance of fitment right away. You have a lot less room for mistakes. It took me over a week the first time. This last rebuild (with PETG) took me 4 hours. Certainly was a lot easier the second time around. I also think it came out a ton better the second time around too.

Good luck on your build, @crafty615! Be sure to visit the Acrylic pipebending 101 thread (also B Neg's







) for ideas, suggestions, instruction, and questions! Feel free to PM me too.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> You are brave to go Rigid on the first attempt. I built my first loop
> and in less than a month I made changes to the cpu block and Pump / Res. Then I made another Res change and GPU upgrade lol.
> 
> What I done is rather common. its difficult to know what you like in the very beginning.


Yeah, I've spent past month or two researching this stuff and I can finally say I am 100% sure of what I am getting (as far as i know







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I will say that doing my first loop with acrylic made me learn the importance of fitment right away. You have a lot less room for mistakes. It took me over a week the first time. This last rebuild (with PETG) took me 4 hours. Certainly was a lot easier the second time around. I also think it came out a ton better the second time around too.
> 
> Good luck on your build, @crafty615! Be sure to visit the Acrylic pipebending 101 thread (also B Neg's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) for ideas, suggestions, instruction, and questions! Feel free to PM me too.


I'm making sure to order a few extra feet of acrylic If (and when) I mess up haha. I am also getting the monsoon bending kit, (it's $85 with added heat gun) but surprisingly enough, after making the changes in what I was getting because I am getting hard lines, I got less 90 degree rotaries and my price ended lower than when I was doing soft tube so I can afford the kit no problem!








And I've got that bending guide up and ready to learn


----------



## Ceadderman

I will be getting three boxes of Monsoon 5/8" white PETG for this build. I got one box of Acrylic and have used a tube and a half just to get acclimated to one connection and how to make proper bends. I think 3 should be enough to cover a total of 10 legs. 36' of PETG better be enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

Has anyone ever installed a 360 on the front of a 900D?


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Yeah, I've spent past month or two researching this stuff and I can finally say I am 100% sure of what I am getting (as far as i know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> I'm making sure to order a few extra feet of acrylic If (and when) I mess up haha. I am also getting the monsoon bending kit, (it's $85 with added heat gun) but surprisingly enough, after making the changes in what I was getting because I am getting hard lines, I got less 90 degree rotaries and my price ended lower than when I was doing soft tube so I can afford the kit no problem!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I've got that bending guide up and ready to learn


I had not built a PC since 1999 with old school danger den parts and a eheim pump. My first build was in a luxe last year I went acrylic. My first shot. Don't let acrylic scare you it's just a matter of patience and time don't try to knock it all out in one night.

Here's my first build after 16 years. Then my second in the s8 and now i have rounded up all my parts for my htpc caselabs nova build and I may go stainless 12mm tube to keep uping the anti!

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Untitled.png.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0207.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0208.jpg.html


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I'm done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No more changes for me for the time being


That UP7 doh!

Nice job keeping that orange going. It really is a nice highlight color.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I had not built a PC since 1999 with old school danger den parts and a eheim pump. My first build was in a luxe last year I went acrylic. My first shot. Don't let acrylic scare you it's just a matter of patience and time don't try to knock it all out in one night.
> 
> Here's my first build after 16 years. Then my second in the s8 and now i have rounded up all my parts for my htpc caselabs nova build and I may go stainless 12mm tube to keep uping the anti!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Untitled.png.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0207.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0208.jpg.html


I love that luxe! I just got my luxe a week or 2 ago and it is awesome! I went from a raidmax smilodon extreme black edition mid-tower to this luxe full-tower and it is such a huge difference! so much room and my old case didnt have a cable management/hiding system









I wont be using this case to water cool unless i have to go somewhere for an extended time in which i will build in my pc from my desk with the watercooling


----------



## MaLiXs

haha thank for the comment here lol !!! electrical tape was a temporary solution. I've managed to drill some hole in the back panel to hold my ssd corectly.

this is my first watercooled rig and the 240mm is a decent choice since I only have a G3258 and a 660ti (note for this one it only a MCW82.... but I'll probably buy a slightly used 240mm rad to be a bit more overkill









I also removed the hdd since it was only my bench on it...

ziptied fan :the fan is an old 92mm from an old build.
ugly noctua fan : this is the most powerful fan that I got for this ... and I only pay 5$ for it (NF-F12)
I got the psu for a good price ( bout 70$ CAD for a 530w gold modular unit)
the ram is from my previous build and I didnt buy it to match the color (my previous board was a p8z68m-pro) but for it price at 43$ for 8gb kit

but for now when I'll have more money (it gonna take some time I'm still at school) I'm gonna try to find a good case .... by that anyone having some clue for a good CHEAP case that can fit 2 240mm radiator ? I dont need so much hdd space and no need for optical drive


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaLiXs*
> 
> haha thank for the comment here lol !!! electrical tape was a temporary solution. I've managed to drill some hole in the back panel to hold my ssd corectly.
> 
> this is my first watercooled rig and the 240mm is a decent choice since I only have a G3258 and a 660ti (note for this one it only a MCW82.... but I'll probably buy a slightly used 240mm rad to be a bit more overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also removed the hdd since it was only my bench on it...
> 
> ziptied fan :the fan is an old 92mm from an old build.
> ugly noctua fan : this is the most powerful fan that I got for this ... and I only pay 5$ for it (NF-F12)
> I got the psu for a good price ( bout 70$ CAD for a 530w gold modular unit)
> the ram is from my previous build and I didnt buy it to match the color (my previous board was a p8z68m-pro) but for it price at 43$ for 8gb kit
> 
> but for now when I'll have more money (it gonna take some time I'm still at school) I'm gonna try to find a good case .... by that anyone having some clue for a good CHEAP case that can fit 2 240mm radiator ? I dont need so much hdd space and no need for optical drive


if you want cheap and big for water cool, go with the Phanteks Enthoo Pro:

http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-PH-ES614P_TG-Titanium/dp/B00YCX0XR6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1436746338&sr=8-4&keywords=enthoo+pro&pebp=1436746343972&perid=0AKBJFCM8CVZMZBPH95P

I have the luxe which is the same with some different features like led, and its great


----------



## Ceadderman

Fractal Define S would be better imho and it's cheaper. That Phanteks case is nice though.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Has anyone ever installed a 360 on the front of a 900D?


Yes, you will need to cut under the drive cage to clear the rad end tanks or if you can fit a thin one inside fil. You will loose the rad mounts on the bottom unless you install smaller rads, or install them on the floor (like my old build).


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaLiXs*
> 
> haha thank for the comment here lol !!! electrical tape was a temporary solution. I've managed to drill some hole in the back panel to hold my ssd corectly.
> 
> this is my first watercooled rig and the 240mm is a decent choice since I only have a G3258 and a 660ti (note for this one it only a MCW82.... but I'll probably buy a slightly used 240mm rad to be a bit more overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also removed the hdd since it was only my bench on it...
> 
> ziptied fan :the fan is an old 92mm from an old build.
> ugly noctua fan : this is the most powerful fan that I got for this ... and I only pay 5$ for it (NF-F12)
> I got the psu for a good price ( bout 70$ CAD for a 530w gold modular unit)
> the ram is from my previous build and I didnt buy it to match the color (my previous board was a p8z68m-pro) but for it price at 43$ for 8gb kit
> 
> but for now when I'll have more money (it gonna take some time I'm still at school) I'm gonna try to find a good case .... by that anyone having some clue for a good CHEAP case that can fit 2 240mm radiator ? I dont need so much hdd space and no need for optical drive


This one would work as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Obsidian-Mid-Tower-Computer-CC-9011049-WW/dp/B00I6BJ8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436748657&sr=8-1&keywords=450d&pebp=1436748659772&perid=1JWPQDNRM7X3Y88RJVN8


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Fractal Define S would be better imho and it's cheaper. That Phanteks case is nice though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


agreed, Define S is my favorite if a 360mm Rad + 240mm or less rads is enough.

I like the size of the define R5 and S. It is a lot easier to bleed and drain a case that is not so huge it takes two ppl to get it onto a table.


----------



## Domler

Well. Here we go. Leak test done. Filled loop. Gotta do some cable work. Gonna fix some lines in time. Had my pc down since last Sunday. Tomarrow she comes back and I'm gonna game a bit. Test the temps. Get a feel for it and change as needed. 4790k overclocked to 4.7. Titan x. 32 gb ram. 1.75 tb ssds. I'm happy so far. 


Last pic is so know thinks a thermalfake. ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol, nice runs and bend work


----------



## Domler

Thanks. First time hard tubing. I'm embarrassed to say they took me 8 hours. And i m gonna have to redo half of them. It was really fun. But now I know why alot of people buy the right angle fittings. The more I thought about it, I think right angles might look better with the industrial look of the case. Maybe it's just me. Maybe, now that it's done, time for something new. Been water cooling since February. Had aio coolers for two years. Then started with CPU. Needed a new gpu since I put thermal epoxy on the vrams and vrms of my 780ti, saying, I'll never want to take them off. Duh. I love the performance and the silence of it. It really is amazing. Been around computer for 20 years. Just never took the dip in the pool. To scared I guess. But always wanted to. Can't wait to see what's next.
Oh. And I heard all the hype around caselabs, and know that I have one, they are absolutely amazing. I even shot it with a rpg and it didn't even dent. They are built like a tank.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not bad at all being a watern00b.









At least you've gotten away from the possibility of plasticizer leeching from flexible tubing. That's why I went hard line as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## crafty615

anyone have any pictures of loops with mayhems uv green, uv laser green, and emerald green? I cant find any pictures or videos comparing them anywhere. I want to know what they look like with and without UV light, cause I want it to be green without UV light but it would also be nice if it was UV reactant.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Thank you! I was thinking of doing 16mm tubing, or is that too thick?


Bitspower rigid fittings don't work on primochill tubing. MAJOR FYI
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> Kinda sucks that this is even an issue. I saw a couple of ads pushing cases in latest issue of CPU. One ThermalFake and one Fractal. There is *maybe* 4 pages between them. Same looks same view of them same angle. For the uninformed they both look exactly alike.
> 
> I gave them both a casual glance and said yup they're the same. But then I looked again. The TF case is missing the door LED. It's side fins on the door are level to the exterior and the finger zone is bigger. Where the side panel differs is TF's top goes down to the top of the door.
> 
> Even so, it's a blatant ripoff of Fractal's case. Sure their interior *could* be setup differently, but that's not what catches the eye of the consumer. So long as there are at least three 3.5 bays and two 5.25 bays and the case will hold a standard ATX, PSU and has room for an enthuiast GPU the noob will purchase the cheaper of the two. Pretty unscrupulous imho. TF used to make some really nice looking cases and not too long ago, without pilfering anyone else's look. Now they're actively stealing another competitors look to profit from it. Uncool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery! At least they know they're doing something right. Plus they have the support of the watercooling community whereas knockoffs are always negatively regarded. I never really liked Tt anyway. Their mechanical keyboards aren't bad but they don't actually use cherry switches that's why they're so cheap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Has anyone ever installed a 360 on the front of a 900D?


You can but really I would mount it up top because it kinda looks weird to me mounting a 360 in a mount designed for a 480.

On that note why is it that none of the experienced watetcoolers use 120 rather than 140 based rads?? Just something I noticed.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

We use them because fan selection is much greater.


----------



## Ceadderman

@Pinnacle

Ummmmm *nobody* in the community who has a moral compass, supports ThermalFake outright stealing the intellectual property of other companies.









If I write a book about electronic devices killing people at random and make small subtle changes starting with the title and working through a cast of differently named people, Stephen King would be right to sue me over it.

ThermalFake did essentially the same rhing. It's ridiculous how blase people can be over this. In the late 1800s we had a huge problem with printing and publishing unprotected works that caused several well known writers to sue our publishing houses over this and they were right to do so.

There is *no* difference in this day and age so long as intellectual property rights exist. The fact that you don't understand this speaks volumes.









Oh and they have *still* not learned that aluminum doesn't play well with other metals. How anyone can support that is ridiculous. I don't care if they use zinc in their radiators. They are Fail(!) in watercooling too.









~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Has anyone ever installed a 360 on the front of a 900D?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you will need to cut under the drive cage to clear the rad end tanks or if you can fit a thin one inside fil. You will loose the rad mounts on the bottom unless you install smaller rads, or install them on the floor (like my old build).
Click to expand...

Thanks mate.

But that option might be a little no-no for me. Plan is:
Blackice GTX480 up top.
360 at the front
GTX 480at the bottom



Will it fit here?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Bitspower rigid fittings don't work on primochill tubing. MAJOR FYI
> Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery! At least they know they're doing something right. Plus they have the support of the watercooling community whereas knockoffs are always negatively regarded. I never really liked Tt anyway. *Their mechanical keyboards aren't bad but they don't actually use cherry switches that's why they're so cheap.
> *You can but really I would mount it up top because it kinda looks weird to me mounting a 360 in a mount designed for a 480.
> 
> On that note why is it that none of the experienced watetcoolers use 120 rather than 140 based rads?? Just something I noticed.


The TT Meka G-Unit (their most popular keyboard) uses cherry mx black switches and isn't cheap (priced similar to Das).

You are mistakening them for Razer I think.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Pinnacle
> 
> Ummmmm *nobody* in the community who has a moral compass, supports ThermalFake outright stealing the intellectual property of other companies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I write a book about electronic devices killing people at random and make small subtle changes starting with the title and working through a cast of differently named people, Stephen King would be right to sue me over it.
> 
> ThermalFake did essentially the same rhing. It's ridiculous how blase people can be over this. In the late 1800s we had a huge problem with printing and publishing unprotected works that caused several well known writers to sue our publishing houses over this and they were right to do so.
> 
> There is *no* difference in this day and age so long as intellectual property rights exist. The fact that you don't understand this speaks volumes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What exactly are you implying I don't understand? I said their imitation means case labs is doing something right but you want to stand behind the pioneers not the knockoffs. Read my statement carefully. And you think I support thievery?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> The TT Meka G-Unit (their most popular keyboard) uses cherry mx black switches and isn't cheap (priced similar to Das).
> 
> You are mistakening them for Razer I think.


I'm talking about the Tt Poseidon z I think. I have one and I read that they don't actually use cherry switches but they are mechanical.
Quote:


> Oh and they have *still* not learned that aluminum doesn't play well with other metals. How anyone can support that is ridiculous. I don't care if they use zinc in their radiators. They are Fail(!) in watercooling too.


Watercooling is as much of an art as a science. I only go with companies that are established which is why I've been using EK exclusively for my blocks. I never really knew much about Tt but this makes me lose any respect I had for them. Not using aluminum is rule number one (asus used aluminum in their original M6F and they got a lotta flak for it).


----------



## Ceadderman

Apologies Pinnacle, but that's how it came across.










~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies Pinnacle, but that's how it came across.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lol it's all good. I forgot to throw in there if they're resorting to copying a successful design they've basically done as a company. Case labs doesn't even have to do anything lol. I think they have enough backing in the WC community that people will boycott TT.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We use them because fan selection is much greater.


Right I didn't think about that. I use sp140s so I just always got 140 based rads bc they seemed like a better cooling rad


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Anybody got some topics for YouTube videos relating to watercooling? I'm looking for some ideas based on common misconceptions, tutorials etc. I'm thinking maybe to start with one discussing what watercooling is, how to install a gpu block, and I was going to do a more extensive tutorial based on my last delid video.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Anybody got some topics for YouTube videos relating to watercooling? I'm looking for some ideas based on common misconceptions, tutorials etc. I'm thinking maybe to start with one discussing what watercooling is, how to install a gpu block, and I was going to do a more extensive tutorial based on my last delid video.


My temptation for the water cooling came from SingularityComputers on YouTube. There are also several basic explanations / tutorials.
https://www.youtube.com/user/SingularityComputers

Also check Ronsanut.
https://www.youtube.com/user/Ronsanut

And DazMode
https://www.youtube.com/user/DazMode

There are many others. Just try to look for reletaed videos.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> My temptation for the water cooling came from SingularityComputers on YouTube. There are also several basic explanations / tutorials.
> https://www.youtube.com/user/SingularityComputers
> 
> Also check Ronsanut.
> https://www.youtube.com/user/Ronsanut
> 
> And DazMode
> https://www.youtube.com/user/DazMode
> 
> There are many others. Just try to look for reletaed videos.


Yea I know those. I was just looking for a way to make mine different by addressing real world questions and issues ppl were having. I'll watch their videos to get some ideas for my own.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Anybody got some topics for YouTube videos relating to watercooling? I'm looking for some ideas based on common misconceptions, tutorials etc. I'm thinking maybe to start with one discussing what watercooling is, how to install a gpu block, and I was going to do a more extensive tutorial based on my last delid video.


How to build your own 2 x 280mm external rad box ??









"  "


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> How to build your own 2 x 280mm external rad box ??


This looks terrible. I just used what I had on hand and couldn't find a radbox.
! 




I really don't think you want my answer lolol. It looks soooo bad


----------



## fast_fate

I'll take a quick pic of the one I'm putting together.
It's not quite finished yet though
brb


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> So I got the new loop all done and whilst waiting for the paracord and gpu backplate to show up I noticed something with this mayhems purple I'm running....
> 
> 
> Day one
> 
> 
> 
> Day three
> 
> Does the dye normally lose that much vibrancy in three days... Just thought it was a little strange


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> It's either uv dye that only shows up under uv light. VERY UNLIKELY.
> 
> OR
> 
> there may have been a large volume of distiller water that was sitting there that remained unmixed and over time mixed with this dye and caused it to dilute.
> 
> That's all i got


100% not uv dye i know that... possibility that the water hadn't fully been mixed but i was thinking i have a reptile tank in the same room that has a fairly strong 6foot UV-B lamp in it, that wouldn't have any effect on it would it? because i added more dye to it this morning and it has noticeably started to fade again


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I'll take a quick pic of the one I'm putting together.
> It's not quite finished yet though
> brb


Please send me your measurements. I'm so tired of this ''box''

I'm also removing that second pump. It does nothing for me.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Please send me your measurements. I'm so tired of this ''box''
> 
> I'm also removing that second pump. It does nothing for me.


Measurements = CaseLabs S3 Pedestal
Dual D5s and with EK Dual Pump Top.
AquaComputer Reservoir
Dual 280mm XSPC Rads with NoiseBlockers in Push
Drain for each side - tap on rotary fittings

Wiring to complete and the inlete/outlet tubes + fill port hose

*EDIT:* Looks like a short fitting between rad and 45° fitting on top LHS will help hosing a bit more on the short run down to inlet of RHS rad.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> 100% not uv dye i know that... possibility that the water hadn't fully been mixed but i was thinking i have a reptile tank in the same room that has a fairly strong 6foot UV-B lamp in it, that wouldn't have any effect on it would it? because i added more dye to it this morning and it has noticeably started to fade again


I think you just have a water pocket honestly. Try adding more dye and bleeding the loop completely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Thanks mate.
> 
> But that option might be a little no-no for me. Plan is:
> Blackice GTX480 up top.
> 360 at the front
> GTX 480at the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> Will it fit here?


You can do EITHER the 480 OR the 360...Both probably won't fit. That hard drive bar will have to go. Honestly i would do two things: don't mount a rad in front, and get a larger res...That one has to be difficult to bleed. Another thing: Is that a DDC? Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this (don't have much experience with non-D5) but I'm pretty sure that a DDC won't be powerful enough to power through four blocks.

EDIT: I didn't see that you have a bay res. The 900D has terrible terrible front airflow unless you remove the front plate (or mod it).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Measurements = CaseLabs S3 Pedestal
> Dual D5s and with EK Dual Pump Top.
> AquaComputer Reservoir
> Dual 280mm XSPC Rads with NoiseBlockers in Push
> Drain for each side - tap on rotary fittings
> 
> Wiring to complete and the inlete/outlet tubes + fill port hose
> 
> *EDIT:* Looks like a short fitting between rad and 45° fitting on top LHS will help hosing a bit more on the short run down to inlet of RHS rad.


Dude that looks so nice. i was actually going to go that route, but I was looking into the s5 because i was thinking of going smaller form factor...but I'm not sure yet... i might either go with the s5 or s8...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I think you just have a water pocket honestly. Try adding more dye and bleeding the loop completely.
> You can do EITHER the 480 OR the 360...Both probably won't fit. That hard drive bar will have to go. Honestly i would do two things: don't mount a rad in front, and get a larger res...That one has to be difficult to bleed. Another thing: Is that a DDC? Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this (don't have much experience with non-D5) but I'm pretty sure that a DDC won't be powerful enough to power through four blocks.
> 
> 
> Dude that looks so nice. i was actually going to go that route, but I was looking into the s5 because i was thinking of going smaller form factor...but I'm not sure yet... i might either go with the s5 or s8...


The S3 Ped I'm using is the smallest CL offer








The S5 ped offers extra options due to being longer and wider.
280 on the left, 360 on the right.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The S3 Ped I'm using is the smallest CL offer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S5 ped offers extra options due to being longer and wider.
> 280 on the left, 360 on the right.


Yea my only complaint is that it's a little narrow with push pull for me. Is the s8 wider?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea my only complaint is that it's a little narrow with push pull for me. Is the s8 wider?


S5 Ped - 19.03"L x 12.14"W x 7.72"H (486mm x 308mm x 196mm)
vs.
S8 Ped - 19.03"L x 14.54"W x 7.72"H (486mm x 369mm x 196mm)

so yeah, 61mm wider


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> You can do EITHER the 480 OR the 360...Both probably won't fit. That hard drive bar will have to go. Honestly i would do two things: don't mount a rad in front, and get a larger res...That one has to be difficult to bleed. Another thing: Is that a DDC? *Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this (don't have much experience with non-D5) but I'm pretty sure that a DDC won't be powerful enough to power through four blocks.*
> 
> EDIT: I didn't see that you have a bay res. The 900D has terrible terrible front airflow unless you remove the front plate (or mod it).


That's actually @wermad's rig. And he has been using DDC's on his earlier builds. And since you said you don't have experience in them, less comment will do you good or more research.







Some people here are DDC fanboys ya know.

I know the 900D isn't the best out there. But since I already have the 480's and local stores don't have much inventory of cases to support them, I will have to bite the bullet for one. Or chose Thermaltakes.







Not much choice here. I might just push my own case for that reason.

Theres a lot of reason why I would pack as much rad in there. One of them is equatorial ambient.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I think you just have a water pocket honestly. Try adding more dye and bleeding the loop completely.
> You can do EITHER the 480 OR the 360...Both probably won't fit. That hard drive bar will have to go. Honestly i would do two things: don't mount a rad in front, and get a larger res...That one has to be difficult to bleed. Another thing: Is that a DDC? Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this (don't have much experience with non-D5) but *I'm pretty sure that a DDC won't be powerful enough to power through four blocks.
> *
> EDIT: I didn't see that you have a bay res. The 900D has terrible terrible front airflow unless you remove the front plate (or mod it).
> Dude that looks so nice. i was actually going to go that route, but I was looking into the s5 because i was thinking of going smaller form factor...but I'm not sure yet... i might either go with the s5 or s8...


Actually you have it backwards. In a high restriction loop a DDC like mcp35x is the better choice if you still only want 1 pump. The 18w ddc has 20ft head pressure vs the D5 with 12ft.

I own both. My main has a mcp35x and my sons has a D5 vario.

They are both good pumps. Dont underestimate the ddc. They are very strong.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Pinnacle Fit DDC are very nice with multiple blocks. I am running a DDC in the Division with the Cpu, Mosfet, Chipset , Multiple Rads. Haven't had a problem moving fluid.

@Wolfsbora Epic Rig!! lOve the lines and very very clean.

TCO


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> S5 Ped - 19.03"L x 12.14"W x 7.72"H (486mm x 308mm x 196mm)
> vs.
> S8 Ped - 19.03"L x 14.54"W x 7.72"H (486mm x 369mm x 196mm)
> 
> so yeah, 61mm wider


Yea I got micro centers replacement and upgrade plan so I think I'll switch out my 1150 M7F for a mATX board and going S5 with a pedestal. The irony is my 2x280 cost as much as the pedestal lol

Well like I said 'someone correct me if I'm wrong' it appears I was incorrect and I have no problems admitting my mistakes. No need to be rude about it. Anytime you open yourself up to receiving advice from others you're going to get a mixed bag. It's your job to sort through the good and bad.

I always thought the d5 was superior. Seems I learned something new today.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Pinnacle Fit DDC are very nice with multiple blocks. I am running a DDC in the Division with the Cpu, Mosfet, Chipset , Multiple Rads. Haven't had a problem moving fluid.
> 
> @Wolfsbora Epic Rig!! lOve the lines and very very clean.
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Actually you have it backwards. In a high restriction loop a DDC like mcp35x is the better choice if you still only want 1 pump. The 18w ddc has 20ft head pressure vs the D5 with 12ft.
> 
> I own both. My main has a mcp35x and my sons has a D5 vario.
> 
> They are both good pumps. Dont underestimate the ddc. They are very strong.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That's actually @wermad's rig. And he has been using DDC's on his earlier builds. And since you said you don't have experience in them, less comment will do you good or more research.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some people here are DDC fanboys ya know.
> 
> I know the 900D isn't the best out there. But since I already have the 480's and local stores don't have much inventory of cases to support them, I will have to bite the bullet for one. Or chose Thermaltakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much choice here. I might just push my own case for that reason.
> 
> Theres a lot of reason why I would pack as much rad in there. One of them is equatorial ambient.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> S5 Ped - 19.03"L x 12.14"W x 7.72"H (486mm x 308mm x 196mm)
> vs.
> S8 Ped - 19.03"L x 14.54"W x 7.72"H (486mm x 369mm x 196mm)
> 
> so yeah, 61mm wider


Yea I got micro centers replacement and upgrade plan so I think I'll switch out my 1150 M7F for a mATX board and going S5 with a pedestal. The irony is my 2x280 cost as much as the pedestal lol

Well like I said 'someone correct me if I'm wrong' it appears I was incorrect and I have no problems admitting my mistakes. No need to be rude about it. Anytime you open yourself up to receiving advice from others you're going to get a mixed bag. It's your job to sort through the good and bad.

I always thought the d5 was superior. Seems I learned something new today. I'd like to think I know a good bit about watercooling but I'm still green and never claimed to be an 'expert'. I'm far from it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea I got micro centers replacement and upgrade plan so I think I'll switch out my 1150 M7F for a mATX board and going S5 with a pedestal. The irony is my 2x280 cost as much as the pedestal lol
> 
> Well like I said 'someone correct me if I'm wrong' it appears I was incorrect and I have no problems admitting my mistakes. *No need to be rude about it*. Anytime you open yourself up to receiving advice from others you're going to get a mixed bag. It's your job to sort through the good and bad.
> 
> I always thought the d5 was superior. Seems I learned something new today. I'd like to think I know a good bit about watercooling but I'm still green and never claimed to be an 'expert'. I'm far from it.










Not sure I ready anything Rude in these responses.

TCO


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I ready anything Rude in these responses.
> 
> TCO


*That's actually @wermad's rig. And he has been using DDC's on his earlier builds. And since you said you don't have experience in them, less comment will do you good or more research. thumb.gif Some people here are DDC fanboys ya know.*

Was what I was referring to Maybe I took it too literal / personal Lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> *That's actually @wermad's rig. And he has been using DDC's on his earlier builds. And since you said you don't have experience in them, less comment will do you good or more research. thumb.gif Some people here are DDC fanboys ya know.*
> 
> Was what I was referring to


Most of the time I don't think people are being rude with some or most of the responeses, because I have asked questions that I could have looked up myself or spent more time doing "The Research"

And I admit that.

TCO


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> *That's actually @wermad's rig. And he has been using DDC's on his earlier builds. And since you said you don't have experience in them, less comment will do you good or more research. thumb.gif Some people here are DDC fanboys ya know.*
> 
> Was what I was referring to Maybe I took it too literal / personal Lol


Not being rude mate. But you know, texts can always be taken one way or another.

Anyways, I apologize for that and whatever that might mean to you.

On top of english being not my primary tongue, words can easily take off far on translations.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Most of the time I don't think people are being rude with some or most of the responeses, because I have asked questions that I could have looked up myself or spent more time doing "The Research"
> 
> And I admit that.
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not being rude mate. But you know, texts can always be taken one way or another.
> 
> Anyways, I apologize for that and whatever that might mean to you.
> 
> On top of english being not my primary tongue, words can easily take off far on translations.


All good, it was my misconception. Ill own up to it lol. Easy to misunderstand text


----------



## By-Tor

DDC Fanboys.... Never heard that one before...


----------



## mus1mus

They are still asleep so don't wake them.


----------



## By-Tor

I guess if I use them and always have I am one... lol

Not asleep...


----------



## wholeeo

D5 or DDC

XSPC RX480, RX360, RX240
EK Supreme Evo
2x EK 980Ti Blocks
XSPC Bay/Pump Reservoir

At the moment I'm using a D5, I'm wondering if this pump is the best option for my loop?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> D5 or DDC
> 
> XSPC RX480, RX360, RX240
> EK Supreme Evo
> 2x EK 980Ti Blocks
> XSPC Bay/Pump Reservoir
> 
> At the moment I'm using a D5, I'm wondering if this pump is the best option for my loop?


Depends on how restrictive the loop is.

D5 moves 317 gph @ 13 ft head pressure

MCP355 DDC moves 120 gph @ 15ft head pressure swiftech site (PPC site says 20ft head)

I have heard people say the DDC makes more noise, but I have used them since I started water cooling back in 2008 and have never heard mine making any noise.

I don't think it would really matter which you use.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> No need to be rude about it.


Noone was being rude.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> D5 or DDC
> 
> XSPC RX480, RX360, RX240
> EK Supreme Evo
> 2x EK 980Ti Blocks
> XSPC Bay/Pump Reservoir
> 
> At the moment I'm using a D5, I'm wondering if this pump is the best option for my loop?


flowarate does not affect temps that much.

If you already have a D5 and temps are satisfactory you wont see much difference going from one to the other.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> DDC Fanboys.... Never heard that one before...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> They are still asleep so don't wake them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> D5 or DDC
> 
> XSPC RX480, RX360, RX240
> EK Supreme Evo
> 2x EK 980Ti Blocks
> XSPC Bay/Pump Reservoir
> 
> At the moment I'm using a D5, I'm wondering if this pump is the best option for my loop?


They both work fine . . . .

As long as you use enough of them . . . .













Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha, I use two DDC1s with an EK dual DDC v2 for redundany's sake. I like having a backup in my loop, that I can fire up if I need it. Was controlling them with my FC but that's now being re-thunk since I have no 5.25 bay.









Mine are quite silent.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Haha, I use two DDC1s with an EK dual DDC v2 for redundany's sake. I like having a backup in my loop, that I can fire up if I need it. Was controlling them with my FC but that's now being re-thunk since I have no 5.25 bay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine are quite silent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


But you have the 10w and they are silent...

.....ish.

I still have all the D5's I have ever used,about 8 now......cant say the same for the DDC's,however the PWM DDC (EK) in LUMO is going like a champ,I do have a heatsink on it tho....and plenty of 90's.....



I should of been a mouse gynecologist......

And....new toy inbound!


----------



## Ceadderman

Well the next ones will be mcp35s. Can't get DDC1s anymore.









In the future I *may* get D5 depends on the build. Gonna be scratch building a LAN system after this one gets finished. Doubtful I can put a D5 in it since the interior leaves me less than 5" of workspace and the GPU will have to get a ribbon connection to allow me to lay it flat. So yeah, not that build.









Wow that's a different layout for a familiar platform.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well the next ones will be mcp35s. Can't get DDC1s anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the future I *may* get D5 depends on the build. Gonna be scratch building a LAN system after this one gets finished. Doubtful I can put a D5 in it since the interior leaves me less than 5" of workspace and the GPU will have to get a ribbon connection to allow me to lay it flat. So yeah, not that build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow that's a different layout for a familiar platform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have played around with so much kit in real 'live with it' circumstances,all I really care about now is silence and reliability. All the numbers posted dont tell the whole story,props to those that have such an avid interest to do the hours but the end results are all the same.....

.....that being that the hardware is the limiting factor,even the worst designed and specced custom loop will be still be leaps ahead of the hardware its cooling.

Silence,Aesthetics,Performance....In that order.

Sounds heinous but its the truth as I see it,performance has levelled off for WC kit,the gains are slight....now its about refinement.


----------



## Ceadderman

I go reverse order there...

Performance, Looks and Silence actually. Silence for me is a byproduct of the 1st two.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I go reverse order there...
> 
> Performance, Looks and Silence actually. Silence for me is a byproduct of the 1st two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Performance and Silence dont go hand in hand tho.......

Dont get me wrong,a year a go and I would of been obsessing over the minutiae but now?.......not so much. Now I get what I like the look off and do what I want, Im happier for it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> D5 or DDC
> 
> XSPC RX480, RX360, RX240
> EK Supreme Evo
> 2x EK 980Ti Blocks
> XSPC Bay/Pump Reservoir
> 
> At the moment I'm using a D5, I'm wondering if this pump is the best option for my loop?


I'll be using an RX480, RX360 and RX360 as well, and I'll also be using a 560 GTS. I'll be using one photon 270 PWM D5, and I'll most likely be adding a second. You'll be fine with one.!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have played around with so much kit in real 'live with it' circumstances,all I really care about now is silence and reliability. All the numbers posted dont tell the whole story,props to those that have such an avid interest to do the hours but the end results are all the same.....
> 
> .....that being that the hardware is the limiting factor,even the worst designed and specced custom loop will be still be leaps ahead of the hardware its cooling.
> 
> Silence,Aesthetics,Performance....In that order.
> 
> Sounds heinous but its the truth as I see it,performance has levelled off for WC kit,the gains are slight....now its about refinement.


Maybe there is something wrong with my D5. It is much louder than my mcp35x at max if the D5 on setting 4-5.

The D5 is completely decoupled too attached only to dense foam.

What setting do you put your d5 on?

On mine 1-2 are really the only settings that I would call quiet.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have played around with so much kit in real 'live with it' circumstances,all I really care about now is silence and reliability. All the numbers posted dont tell the whole story,props to those that have such an avid interest to do the hours but the end results are all the same.....
> 
> .....that being that the hardware is the limiting factor,even the worst designed and specced custom loop will be still be leaps ahead of the hardware its cooling.
> 
> Silence,Aesthetics,Performance....In that order.
> 
> Sounds heinous but its the truth as I see it,performance has levelled off for WC kit,the gains are slight....now its about refinement.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe there is something wrong with my D5. It is much louder than my mcp35x at max if the D5 on setting 4-5.
> 
> The D5 is completely decoupled too attached only to dense foam.
> 
> What setting do you put your d5?
Click to expand...

The only setting,FULL POWAH!

3 things that can make a D5 noisy:

Overtightend top.
Worn bearing.
90 on the inlet can unbalance the impeller.

Air traps can be noisy too.

Is it a rise and fall drone? Or a gravel truck?

Check the bearing cup in the impeller,it should be closed up tight,sometimes they can open up if mistreated by the initial stock handlers..ie, banged about in the box.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The only setting,FULL POWAH!
> 
> 3 things that can make a D5 noisy:
> 
> Overtightend top.
> Worn bearing.
> 90 on the inlet can unbalance the impeller.
> 
> Air traps can be noisy too.
> 
> Is it a rise and fall drone? Or a gravel truck?


steady drone sound. Im gonna check the torque on the top when I get home.

im using the stock pump front now. It has no fittings. I just got tubing shoved on but my tube does make a tight turn on the inlet.


----------



## VSG

Anyone here used Watercool Heatkiller motherboard VRM blocks before? I am trying to get this one here disassembled:



















Removed all 4 screws I can see (2 on top, 2 on bottom) but the block is still not coming apart. It's not a compression seal holding it together either from what I can tell as there is enough play for me to see the O-ring be in the top only now. The PCH block disassembled just fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

They are pron.....

In other news...LUMO is in Custom PC.


----------



## VSG

Congrats man, well deserved.

They (Watercool blocks) may well be quite pr0n-ish, but that doesn't help me out here for the review lol.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know the alphacool d5 I have in JAC is set to full and can barely here it running, other than my UPS drones out any other noise in the room lol

Now I want those Water Cool blocks for my RVE


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'll be using an RX480, RX360 and RX360 as well, and I'll also be using a 560 GTS. I'll be using one photon 270 PWM D5, and I'll most likely be adding a second. You'll be fine with one.!


Yeah I've been fine with one for a long time now







, was curious though if I was pushing its limits or not.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Yeah I've been fine with one for a long time now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , was curious though if I was pushing its limits or not.


So I'll be running all 4 of my rads on a single D5. You can always run two later down the road in serial, which is what I'll probably do.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have played around with so much kit in real 'live with it' circumstances,all I really care about now is silence and reliability. All the numbers posted dont tell the whole story,props to those that have such an avid interest to do the hours but the end results are all the same.....
> 
> .....that being that the hardware is the limiting factor,even the worst designed and specced custom loop will be still be leaps ahead of the hardware its cooling.
> 
> *Silence,Aesthetics,Performance....In that order.*
> 
> Sounds heinous but its the truth as I see it,performance has levelled off for WC kit,the gains are slight....now its about refinement.


It's all a compromise really.

I personally try to go with aesthetics first and plan accordingly to have that not hurt either performance or silence in a bad way.

It's kind of like fan selection. Yeah fan A @1100rpm doesn't cool as much as fan B @2100rpm, but damn it looks good and is alot quieter while only losing a couple of degrees in performance. (way overthought and argued topic around these parts IMHO)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anyone here used Watercool Heatkiller motherboard VRM blocks before? I am trying to get this one here disassembled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed all 4 screws I can see (2 on top, 2 on bottom) but the block is still not coming apart. It's not a compression seal holding it together either from what I can tell as there is enough play for me to see the O-ring be in the top only now. The PCH block disassembled just fine.


Looks like its similar to some of their gpu blocks, with a screw or two under that metal name plate. Cant see how it could work otherwise


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Looks like its similar to some of their gpu blocks, with a screw or two under that metal name plate. Cant see how it could work otherwise


Yeah I think so as well now that I have isolated the region of stubbornness









The plate seems to be glued into place here so I am not going to stop there itself.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know the alphacool d5 I have in JAC is set to full and can barely here it running, other than my UPS drones out any other noise in the room lol
> 
> Now I want those Water Cool blocks for my RVE


Sorry for off topic but DB your little one is growing so fast its a head spinner. Hes absolutely adorable.


----------



## Ceadderman

Here's mine. He saw his reflection for the first time yesterday. I held the copper CPU block just in front of him and the look on his face was priceless.











He *will* be watercooling soon I suspect.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

For this us alphacool rads (older style) do you have to use the provided copper colored screws. I was td they will strip if I use, say stainless steel


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For this us alphacool rads (older style) do you have to use the provided copper colored screws. I was td they will strip if I use, say stainless steel


I'm not using any of their copper screws on my Alphacool rads that I've used for a year now.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Here's mine. He saw his reflection for the first time yesterday. I held the copper CPU block just in front of him and the look on his face was priceless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He *will* be watercooling soon I suspect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Uhh.. That's not water, and it's kinda warm









j/k, handsome little fellow you have there


----------



## Ceadderman

Can you believe he's already a month old?









Seems like it was only yesterday we were in the hospital with him. Time is flying by and I have almost nothing done on my mod yet. Next three months are gonna be hectic.









~Ceadder


----------



## 8bitjunkie

I just though about this.

what is the best way to set up a place to drain my loop?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Next three months are gonna be hectic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


just wait til he can crawl!


----------



## Ceadderman

If your pump(s) are below your Res, a T fitting at the outlet with the straight through as your flow and T at the bottom will work for a drain setup connection. Gravity does most of the work.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If your pump(s) are below your Res, a T fitting at the outlet with the straight through as your flow and T at the bottom will work for a drain setup connection. Gravity does most of the work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


it works to empty the res. Then the lifting, twisting and turning the case begins to get the rest out lol.

I just screww in my fill tube and tilt it sidways to empty the res. Then enough water is out to disconnect tubing. Not a very elegant solution.

If I ever do a rigid build I plan to use muliport rads and put drains on each. That might limit the tilting.


----------



## Ceadderman

True, but it is the best place for one in my experience. GPU are too high up for expulsion of the coolant. Same for CPU and Radiators tend to be too high to create the necessary vacuum to pull liquid out.

Leaving it for the Pump outlet is a quick an dirty way of dealing with it.









Especially if you tilt your loop so the block fittings are tilted toward the drain. Which I didn't do when I drained my loop and coolant was trapped in my Radiator and CPU block.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> True, but it is the best place for one in my experience. GPU are too high up for expulsion of the coolant. Same for CPU and Radiators tend to be too high to create the necessary vacuum to pull liquid out.
> 
> Leaving it for the Pump outlet is a quick an dirty way of dealing with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially if you tilt your loop so the block fittings are tilted toward the drain. Which I didn't do when I drained my loop and coolant was trapped in my Radiator and CPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


In my limited experience. There is no way to drain one without the tilting and moving the case all around to get it out.

Maybe drains on each muliport rad would work.


----------



## crafty615

Any user's of EK Vardar radiator fans out there? If so, where do you connect them all? and if you could take a look at this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1564777/ek-vardar-fan-hookup-help-needed#post_24165416 that'd be awesome


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still like handing mine the XSPC Raystorm holddown and first place it went was right into his mouth lol


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Any user's of EK Vardar radiator fans out there? If so, where do you connect them all? and if you could take a look at this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1564777/ek-vardar-fan-hookup-help-needed#post_24165416 that'd be awesome


I have two right now connected to the motherboard and once I put this bench table (in my sig) on water, I'll put all of them on the motherboard as well. 8 fans, rad fans (6) will be hooked up with this on the same paired channel on the Rampage V Extreme and the two other (over the cpu/ram and graphic card) will be on two other channel. I can do that only because the RVE has now all channel really pwm and I can control them in windows with software (Open Hardware Monitor).
This is only because I don't wanna spend big money for another Aquaero and cause I want that EK Signalkuppe (previously known as Ascendacy). Give it to me EK, nao!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The only setting,FULL POWAH!
> 
> 3 things that can make a D5 noisy:
> 
> Overtightend top.
> Worn bearing.
> 90 on the inlet can unbalance the impeller.
> 
> Air traps can be noisy too.
> 
> Is it a rise and fall drone? Or a gravel truck?
> 
> Check the bearing cup in the impeller,it should be closed up tight,sometimes they can open up if mistreated by the initial stock handlers..ie, banged about in the box.


ok I loosened the Ring about a 1/8 turn.

I think the pump ring may have been touching the side panel slighlty or something. I moved the pump over a 1/2".
I have it on 5 now and its much better. With the side panel on I cannot hear it now.

Thanks


----------



## wholeeo

So here's my rig currently,



I'm ashamed to show the things I had to do at the front of the PC to get the two radiators down there connected to the loop.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I have two right now connected to the motherboard and once I put this bench table (in my sig) on water, I'll put all of them on the motherboard as well. 8 fans, rad fans (6) will be hooked up with this on the same paired channel on the Rampage V Extreme and the two other (over the cpu/ram and graphic card) will be on two other channel. I can do that only because the RVE has now all channel really pwm and I can control them in windows with software (Open Hardware Monitor).
> This is only because I don't wanna spend big money for another Aquaero and cause I want that EK Signalkuppe (previously known as Ascendacy). Give it to me EK, nao!


I was thinking about making something similar to that but instead of 4 connectors, I'd just go straight to soldering all the wires together and have a sata plug instead of molex. That or get a hub which is the same concept but for 8


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I was thinking about making something similar to that but instead of 4 connectors, I'd just go straight to soldering all the wires together and have a sata plug instead of molex. That or get a hub which is the same concept but for 8


Well that depend what you want to do, I'm going this way because I want to be able to adjust them independently. The rads fan will be linked to the in-line temperature probe I'll have in the water loop, but the two other I'd like to have manual control over them even if they will be linked to some other temperature sensor.
But, yeah, as long as the splitter you are going is properly designed with pwm and not with all fan tach wire linked to the main connector, it will work.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> So here's my rig currently,
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ashamed to show the things I had to do at the front of the PC to get the two radiators down there connected to the loop.


did you sleeve the tubing? That looks awesome!!!


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> D5 or DDC
> 
> XSPC RX480, RX360, RX240
> EK Supreme Evo
> 2x EK 980Ti Blocks
> XSPC Bay/Pump Reservoir
> 
> At the moment I'm using a D5, I'm wondering if this pump is the best option for my loop?


I'm running a similar setup 2x gpu blocks, CPU block, and 4 rads. Single d5 is fine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> steady drone sound. Im gonna check the torque on the top when I get home.
> 
> im using the stock pump front now. It has no fittings. I just got tubing shoved on but my tube does make a tight turn on the inlet.


If you haven't I'd put collars on just to be safe. Is it bled? Little air pockets and bubbles can do that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'll be running all 4 of my rads on a single D5. You can always run two later down the road in serial, which is what I'll probably do.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> In my limited experience. There is no way to drain one without the tilting and moving the case all around to get it out.
> 
> Maybe drains on each muliport rad would work.


I have my drain on the lowest part of my loop and I open up the highest port on my rad while draining. That and I blow air into it to get the residual out.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I'm running a similar setup 2x gpu blocks, CPU block, and 4 rads. Single d5 is fine
> *If you haven't I'd put collars on just to be safe.* Is it bled? Little air pockets and bubbles can do that.
> 
> I have my drain on the lowest part of my loop and I open up the highest port on my rad while draining. That and I blow air into it to get the residual out.


Its 3/8 id tubing shoved onto the 1/2" barbes. It took forever to get them on. Only way to get em off is to cut them. Pretty certain it cant leak.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Its 3/8 id tubing shoved onto the 1/2" barbes. It took forever to get them on. Only way to get em off is to cut them. Pretty certain it cant leak.


I have 7/16 that fit over 1/2 barbs. I filled the loop and didn't realize I was running oc ov on precision by default. It was pumping max ov into my cards. I had uneven temps because of the air in the loop and one of my rads shot up to almost 50c causing my tubing to slip off the barb. Luckily it was in the basement of my 900d but it was a gigantic mess.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I have 7/16 that fit over 1/2 barbs. I filled the loop and didn't realize I was running oc ov on precision by default. It was pumping max ov into my cards. I had uneven temps because of the air in the loop and one of my rads shot up to almost 50c causing my tubing to slip off the barb. Luckily it was in the basement of my 900d but it was a gigantic mess.


you didnt think that 7/16 tube fit that 1/2 barb loose when you put it on?

Its a huge pita to fit a 3/8 over a D5. Those barbes are shaped so blunt. I can get a 3/8 on a regular 1/2 barb pretty easy.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> you didnt think that 7/16 tube fit that 1/2 barb loose when you put it on?
> 
> Its a huge pita to fit a 3/8 over a D5. Those barbes are shaped so blunt. I can get a 3/8 on a regular 1/2 barb pretty easy.


7/16 is 1/16 smaller than 1/2 and larger than 3/8 so it wasn't loose at all. It was a combination of negligence in not checking precision x and not anticipating that. In any case I'm on a nearly 100% rigid setup minus my 'radbox' though you could hardly call it that... I always clamp down my barbs now.


----------



## By-Tor

I've used 7/16" over 1/2" barbs for years, but for added safety I used zip ties to make sure they would stay..

A little peace of mind.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> 7/16 is 1/16 smaller than 1/2 and larger than 3/8 so it wasn't loose at all. It was a combination of negligence in not checking precision x and not anticipating that. In any case I'm on a nearly 100% rigid setup minus my 'radbox' though you could hardly call it that... I always clamp down my barbs now.


I see.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I have 7/16 that fit over 1/2 barbs. I filled the loop and didn't realize I was running oc ov on precision by default. It was pumping max ov into my cards. I had uneven temps because of the air in the loop and one of my rads shot up to almost 50c causing my tubing to slip off the barb.


this makes no sense at all. besides, why in hell would you not bleed your loop before running your pc? but mostly, this makes no sense
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I had uneven temps because of the air in the loop and one of my rads shot up to almost 50c


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> this makes no sense at all. besides, why in hell would you not bleed your loop before running your pc? but mostly, this makes no sense


Yea...i did bleed it some but..I also had this crazy idea that a lil heat would help circulation. Lesson learned.

I've only been wc a few months but have broken my loop down several times to add stuff to it.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea...it was one of my earlier loops and I thought it was bled enough...I also had this crazy idea that a lil heat would help circulation. Lesson learned.
> 
> I've only been wc a few months but have broken my loop down several times to add stuff to it.


May I be the one to suggest that you need a few more years experience, much more research and many more builds under your belt before re-considering your YouTube "Water Cooling Guides" idea again.
You can't be considering advising others when you are making these errors on your own gear.
and continuing this theme, don't feel obliged to answer every question in this thread, especially if you have no experience on that specific topic and you have to put: maybe, I think or possibly at the start of the sentence.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Just brainstorming ideas for my next build, maybe M-ITX with a Nano or Fury X2


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> May I be the one to suggest that you need a few more years experience, much more research and many more builds under your belt before re-considering your YouTube "Water Cooling Guides" idea again.
> You can't be considering advising others when you are making these errors on your own gear.
> and continuing this theme, don't feel obliged to answer every question in this thread, especially if you have no experience on that specific topic and you have to put: maybe, I think or possibly at the start of the sentence.


I might have mispoke when i said that it's only been a few months. I built my first real PC in July 2014 but think i started watercooling late 2014 like november. That said, I have broken down, and completely redesigned my loop about 4 or 5 times as i got new components and moved into a new case, not sure if that counts as a new build but i certainly think that's experience...

Appreciate the input, but that mistake was one of carelessness and negligence, not because I didnt know better. I get what you're saying though.. I probably should slow it down a bit though. The watercooling video series was just an idea, and more of a build log to get input from others, and also some other stuff like delidding and installing gpu blocks, etc. Not to go around parading my knowledge or lack thereof lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I have 7/16 that fit over 1/2 barbs. I filled the loop and didn't realize I was running oc ov on precision by default. It was pumping max ov into my cards. I had uneven temps because of the air in the loop and one of my rads shot up to almost 50c causing my tubing to slip off the barb.
> 
> 
> 
> this makes no sense at all. besides, why in hell would you not bleed your loop before running your pc? but mostly, this makes no sense
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I had uneven temps because of the air in the loop and one of my rads shot up to almost 50c
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Yea i did bleed it but there were huge pockets of air. I think there was some kind of restriction or obstruction. My theory is that the air pocket prevented circulation of water in the rad, so water temps shot up, and hot water caused the tubing to expand and separate from the barb. This was before i converted to acrylic.

There were lots of 90 degree bends and i feel this may have contributed to it. I didnt wait several hours, more like 15 min of bleeding and shaking and refilling the res. When windows came up my brother walked in and i started showing him the rig and what it could do gaming-wise. That was a bad call and I shouldve waited on that. If i had clamped the barbs down, this definitely wouldnt have happened.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Just brainstorming ideas for my next build, maybe M-ITX with a Nano or Fury X2


What case are you thinking of going with for that? I was looking into going small form factor too...Im thinking of going with the caselabs S3 or s5


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Thanks mate.
> 
> But that option might be a little no-no for me. Plan is:
> Blackice GTX480 up top.
> 360 at the front
> GTX 480at the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> Will it fit here?


That's my rig







. That's a GTX 240 in the front. The slight intrusion from it forced me to install the GTX 480 on the floor (lines up nicely w/ the mesh door panel).

I know that Jemes Walter's 900D CSQ had a thin rad placed inside the filter chamber for the 900D. I've seen others put them on here but space is always an issue. Its the one thing I don't like about the 900D, everything was done tight and not taking into account little things such as end tanks of rads.

I also had to drill new screw holes to get it to properly sit there. In the end, its just too much hassle to install a rad here. A place Corsair fell short. Just stick to a 480 on top, bottom and a 360 or 240 in front of the psu.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I think you just have a water pocket honestly. Try adding more dye and bleeding the loop completely.
> You can do EITHER the 480 OR the 360...Both probably won't fit. That hard drive bar will have to go. Honestly i would do two things: don't mount a rad in front, and get a larger res...That one has to be difficult to bleed. Another thing: Is that a DDC? Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this (don't have much experience with non-D5) but I'm pretty sure that a DDC won't be powerful enough to power through four blocks.
> 
> EDIT: I didn't see that you have a bay res. The 900D has terrible terrible front airflow unless you remove the front plate (or mod it).
> Dude that looks so nice. i was actually going to go that route, but I was looking into the s5 because i was thinking of going smaller form factor...but I'm not sure yet... i might either go with the s5 or s8...


its a 35x I used in many builds. I have a d5 now I found and I went for it. Both serve my purposes so I have no complaints of either one. Each has its pros and cons, but both will run massive loops with many rads and blocks without the need of two or more pumps or dual loops.

Oh, here's that same ddc:





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not being rude mate. But you know, texts can always be taken one way or another.
> 
> Anyways, I apologize for that and whatever that might mean to you.
> 
> On top of english being not my primary tongue, words can easily take off far on translations.


After owning two 900Ds, its just best to leave the front alone and stick some fans there (or a psu like my second 900D!). With a good set of fans and two great 480 rads, you can tame even four heat monsters like the Hawaii chips.

You can have a great loop but if its not effective, there's no efficiency from the parts in what capability then can produce when used properly. Case in point my old build was generating too much heat and that's was down to just confinement of space which led to poor circulation. One caution, if you have 60mm thick rad on top w/ push/pull, make sure it don't hit your mb or components in the Corsair.

Sorry for the late replies. I've been ill (again) and trying to manage family and life's curveballs.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> What case are you thinking of going with for that? I was looking into going *small form factor* too...Im thinking of going with the caselabs *S3* or *s5*


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Thanks mate.
> 
> But that option might be a little no-no for me. Plan is:
> Blackice GTX480 up top.
> 360 at the front
> GTX 480at the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> Will it fit here?
> 
> 
> 
> That's my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That's a GTX 240 in the front. The slight intrusion from it forced me to install the GTX 480 on the floor (lines up nicely w/ the mesh door panel).
> 
> I know that Jemes Walter's 900D CSQ had a thin rad placed inside the filter chamber for the 900D. I've seen others put them on here but space is always an issue. Its the one thing I don't like about the 900D, everything was done tight and not taking into account little things such as end tanks of rads.
> 
> I also had to drill new screw holes to get it to properly sit there. In the end, its just too much hassle to install a rad here. A place Corsair fell short. Just stick to a 480 on top, bottom and a 360 or 240 in front of the psu.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I think you just have a water pocket honestly. Try adding more dye and bleeding the loop completely.
> You can do EITHER the 480 OR the 360...Both probably won't fit. That hard drive bar will have to go. Honestly i would do two things: don't mount a rad in front, and get a larger res...That one has to be difficult to bleed. Another thing: Is that a DDC? Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this (don't have much experience with non-D5) but I'm pretty sure that a DDC won't be powerful enough to power through four blocks.
> 
> EDIT: I didn't see that you have a bay res. The 900D has terrible terrible front airflow unless you remove the front plate (or mod it).
> Dude that looks so nice. i was actually going to go that route, but I was looking into the s5 because i was thinking of going smaller form factor...but I'm not sure yet... i might either go with the s5 or s8...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its a 35x I used in many builds. I have a d5 now I found and I went for it. Both serve my purposes so I have no complaints of either one. Each has its pros and cons, but both will run massive loops with many rads and blocks without the need of two or more pumps or dual loops.
> 
> Oh, here's that same ddc:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not being rude mate. But you know, texts can always be taken one way or another.
> 
> Anyways, I apologize for that and whatever that might mean to you.
> 
> On top of english being not my primary tongue, words can easily take off far on translations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> After owning two 900Ds, its just best to leave the front alone and stick some fans there (or a psu like my second 900D!). With a good set of fans and two great 480 rads, you can tame even four heat monsters like the Hawaii chips.
> 
> You can have a great loop but if its not effective, there's no efficiency from the parts in what capability then can produce when used properly. Case in point my old build was generating too much heat and that's was down to just confinement of space which led to poor circulation. One caution, if you have 60mm thick rad on top w/ push/pull, make sure it don't hit your mb or components in the Corsair.
> 
> Sorry for the late replies. I've been ill (again) and trying to manage family and life's curveballs.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear about you being ill. Those are some nice builds. I've built into a 750d  

And my 900d  

The ut60 480 sitting in the basement and the xt45 on top were a really tight fit. And I even needed to remove the fan mount on the bottom to get it in there. Also what was the idea in making only one of the rad mounts on the back side removable??i was gonna put a 280 on the back and I couldn't because of that. My most major major gripe. Wow I hate the 900d for this: instead of making the front panel flush with the edges like they should have, they put a 1.5 inch border that makes it nearly impossible to put oversize cards in there. Seriously how did they not think of this? Also I'm upset about the lack of misplate but I made my own so it's all good. 

Yea I learned about the D5 vs DDC. I was always under the impression that DDC was for smaller and less restrictive loops and that it wasn't as quiet. Now I know lol


----------



## catbuster

Learn to use spoilers....


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> What case are you thinking of going with for that? I was looking into going *small form factor* too...Im thinking of going with the caselabs *S3* or *s5*
Click to expand...

Care to explain? The s3 is an Itx and the s5 is an matx according to the site.




I'm SOOOO sorry I don't know as much as you dude.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> What case are you thinking of going with for that? I was looking into going *small form factor* too...Im thinking of going with the caselabs *S3* or *s5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Care to explain?
Click to expand...

Case Labs and sff are like a stone compared to a mountain.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> What case are you thinking of going with for that? I was looking into going *small form factor* too...Im thinking of going with the caselabs *S3* or *s5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Care to explain?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Case Labs and sff are like a stone compared to a mountain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Oh lol yea if I was putting a mitx in a sma8...I'm talking about putting an matx in a Mercury s5. That's the largest size allowed in that case.
I would understand if he highlighted the case labs part but he highlighted s3 and s5. LOL!


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Care to explain? The s3 is an Itx and the s5 is an matx according to the site.


Putting mITX motherboard into case doesnt make the case it self small form factor









Case labs are greate no1 can argue dat, but they are *HUGE*

I am still waiting for true SSF case from CL, but as some ppl told its just a dream


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Care to explain? The s3 is an Itx and the s5 is an matx according to the site.
> 
> 
> 
> Putting mITX motherboard into case doesnt make the case it self small form factor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case labs are greate no1 can argue dat, but they are *HUGE*
> 
> I am still waiting for true SSF case from CL, but as some ppl told its just a dream
Click to expand...

Dude what are you talking about??? The Mercury s3 and s5 as well as the nova are all small form factor cases. Did you see those pics?

This is a mini Itx case. When face you ever known a Caselabs case to be less than $200 lololol


----------



## wermad

from the definition its smaller then matx (mitx, pitx, & nitx) & and does not use an atx spec powersupply. But, the term has been overused to the point where its now common to see SFF in matx cases too along with atx spec sized psu's 2cents).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form_factor


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> from the definition its smaller then matx (mitx, pitx, & nitx) & and does not use an atx spec powersupply. But, the term has been overused to the point where its now common to see SFF in matx cases too along with atx spec sized psu's 2cents).
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form_factor


I was under the impression small form factor is smaller than atx, LFF being like server size and EATX.

SFF cases being unable to fit anything larger than Itx... Of course it's asinine to put SFF in a large CL like sma8 lolol. But s3 still falls under the SFF category because it's an Itx Case


----------



## catbuster

No point to argue with u







just carry on, but it just makes me cringe when ppl call 40 L case SFF


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> No point to argue with u
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just carry on, but it just makes me cringe when ppl call 40 L case SFF


1. You chose to point out semantics. And mItx is SFF. What are you talking about?
2. The Mercury s3 is a mITX and the s5 is a mATX case.

I've shown several screenshots already. You're arguing just to argue instead of looking at the facts. Please by all means carry on.

You could on the other hand just admit you're wrong

again here's the dimensions


----------



## catbuster

Read my post above... putting a mITX mobo into 40 L case doesnt make the case small form factor. Lets end this pointless discussion...


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Read my post above... putting a mITX mobo into 40 L case doesnt make the case small form factor. Lets end this pointless discussion...


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> but it just makes me cringe when ppl call 40 L case SFF


same here

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> from the definition its smaller then matx (mitx, pitx, & nitx) & and does not use an atx spec powersupply. But, the term has been overused to the point where its now common to see SFF in matx cases too along with atx spec sized psu's 2cents).
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form_factor
> 
> 
> 
> I was under the impression small form factor is smaller than atx, LFF being like server size and EATX.
> 
> SFF cases being unable to fit anything larger than Itx... Of course it's asinine to put SFF in a large CL like sma8 lolol. But s3 still falls under the SFF category because it's an Itx Case
Click to expand...

These Caselabs cases are not small; they're huge when compared to more obviously SFF cases. Most of my size gripes have to do with the Mercury S3 and S5.

I'd consider true SFF cases to be ones like the Silverstone ML07, RVZ01, SG13, CM Elite 110, 130, NCase M1, Cougar QBX, Lian-Li PC O5, PC Q33, Fractal Core 500, Node 202 and 304, and so many others. Look at this thing and then tell me that it's SFF because it has an ITX motherboard in it:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Nothing against BNeg's build; just people calling it SFF. I like the build a lot myself.



Just because the motherboard is as small as the dimensions you posted above does not mean the entire system fits in a small form factor. Don't get me wrong, all of caselabs cases are great; but they're not SFF.


----------



## sinnedone

@Pinnacle Fit

Man you need to relax. This is a web forum. There will always be difference in opinion so just learn how to deal with that.

When you argue about every single thing it makes you look bad. Just relax and use the forums as intended.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> but it just makes me cringe when ppl call 40 L case SFF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> same here
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> from the definition its smaller then matx (mitx, pitx,
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was under the impression small form factor is smaller than atx, LFF being like server size and EATX.
> 
> SFF cases being unable to fit anything larger than Itx... Of course it's asinine to put SFF in a large CL like sma8 lolol. But s3 still falls under the SFF category because it's an Itx Case
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> These Caselabs cases are not small; they're huge when compared to more obviously SFF cases. Most of my size gripes have to do with the Mercury S3 and S5.
> I'd consider true SFF cases to be ones like the Silverstone ML07, RVZ01, SG13, CM Elite 110, 130, NCase M1, Cougar QBX, Lian-Li PC O5, PC Q33, Fractal Core 500, Node 202 and 304, and so many others. Look at this thing and then tell me that it's SFF because it has an ITX motherboard in it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing against BNeg's build; just people calling it SFF. I like the build a lot myself.
> 
> 
> Just because the motherboard is as small as the dimensions you posted above does not mean the entire system fits in a small form factor. Don't get me wrong, all of caselabs cases are great; but they're not SFF.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> @Pinnacle Fit
> 
> Man you need to relax. This is a web forum. There will always be difference in opinion so just learn how to deal with that.
> 
> When you argue about every single thing it makes you look bad. Just relax and use the forums as intended.


Ok yea I get what you mean now. I thought of it fit only a SFF board then by default it was a SFF case.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Wrong thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> but it just makes me cringe when ppl call 40 L case SFF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> same here
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> from the definition its smaller then matx (mitx, pitx,
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was under the impression small form factor is smaller than atx, LFF being like server size and EATX.
> 
> SFF cases being unable to fit anything larger than Itx... Of course it's asinine to put SFF in a large CL like sma8 lolol. But s3 still falls under the SFF category because it's an Itx Case
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> These Caselabs cases are not small; they're huge when compared to more obviously SFF cases. Most of my size gripes have to do with the Mercury S3 and S5.
> I'd consider true SFF cases to be ones like the Silverstone ML07, RVZ01, SG13, CM Elite 110, 130, NCase M1, Cougar QBX, Lian-Li PC O5, PC Q33, Fractal Core 500, Node 202 and 304, and so many others. Look at this thing and then tell me that it's SFF because it has an ITX motherboard in it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing against BNeg's build; just people calling it SFF. I like the build a lot myself.
> 
> 
> Just because the motherboard is as small as the dimensions you posted above does not mean the entire system fits in a small form factor. Don't get me wrong, all of caselabs cases are great; but they're not SFF.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> @Pinnacle Fit
> 
> Man you need to relax. This is a web forum. There will always be difference in opinion so just learn how to deal with that.
> 
> When you argue about every single thing it makes you look bad. Just relax and use the forums as intended.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok yea I get what you mean now. I thought of it fit only a SFF board then by default it was a SFF case.
Click to expand...











Yeah,definitely can't call my S3 sff...not by a long shot.
Great cases tho.

Can I do a Slinky and sue everybody that quotes my pics now?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah,definitely can't call my S3 sff...not by a long shot.
> Great cases tho.
> 
> *Can I do a Slinky and sue everybody that quotes my pics now*?


why must you remind us of his existance









and yeah, caselabs "sff" cases are pretty big when compared to other companies sff cases, but dont let that stop you from getting a s3 or s5, theyre both great imo.

Im kind of wishing this s8 was smaller actually, it has a lot of room to work in but a lot of it is in all the wrong spots imo. Some places are cramped as all hell and other places are almost completely empty.


----------



## Janac

One day from final pics guys...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/140#post_24167055


----------



## p5ych00n5

Hnnnnggggghhhhhhhh. I've got to be really careful how l word this. *Sigh* both my GPUs just died within two hours of each other.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Hnnnnggggghhhhhhhh. I've got to be really careful how l word this. *Sigh* both my GPUs just died within two hours of each other.


How did that happen?

Sorry for your loss.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> How did that happen?
> 
> Sorry for your loss.


First card died slowly, artifacting and crashing Windows no matter the resuscitation efforts. The other card did the same but within hours


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> How did that happen?
> 
> Sorry for your loss.
> 
> 
> 
> First card died slowly, artifacting and crashing Windows no matter the resuscitation efforts. The other card did the same but within hours
Click to expand...

What the heck were you doing? Overclock? volts/heat?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> What the heck were you doing? Overclock? volts/heat?


Everything stock.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I think so as well now that I have isolated the region of stubbornness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate seems to be glued into place here so I am not going to stop there itself.


did you pull the decal off could be a hidden screw under there.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> but it just makes me cringe when ppl call 40 L case SFF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> same here
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> from the definition its smaller then matx (mitx, pitx,
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was under the impression small form factor is smaller than atx, LFF being like server size and EATX.
> 
> SFF cases being unable to fit anything larger than Itx... Of course it's asinine to put SFF in a large CL like sma8 lolol. But s3 still falls under the SFF category because it's an Itx Case
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> These Caselabs cases are not small; they're huge when compared to more obviously SFF cases. Most of my size gripes have to do with the Mercury S3 and S5.
> I'd consider true SFF cases to be ones like the Silverstone ML07, RVZ01, SG13, CM Elite 110, 130, NCase M1, Cougar QBX, Lian-Li PC O5, PC Q33, Fractal Core 500, Node 202 and 304, and so many others. Look at this thing and then tell me that it's SFF because it has an ITX motherboard in it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing against BNeg's build; just people calling it SFF. I like the build a lot myself.
> 
> 
> Just because the motherboard is as small as the dimensions you posted above does not mean the entire system fits in a small form factor. Don't get me wrong, all of caselabs cases are great; but they're not SFF.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> @Pinnacle Fit
> 
> Man you need to relax. This is a web forum. There will always be difference in opinion so just learn how to deal with that.
> 
> When you argue about every single thing it makes you look bad. Just relax and use the forums as intended.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok yea I get what you mean now. I thought of it fit only a SFF board then by default it was a SFF case.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah,definitely can't call my S3 sff...not by a long shot.
> Great cases tho.
> 
> 
> 
> Can I do a Slinky and sue everybody that quotes my pics now?
Click to expand...

Only if you put on a funny costume and perform a dog and pony show in front of thousands of drunken captive NBA fans to become a celebrity in your own mind . . . . .









Otherwise . . . . . . no.

D.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Ok yea I get what you mean now. I thought of it fit only a SFF board then by default it was a SFF case.


I think that SFF is defined as 20L or smaller, but I've been wrong about that before.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> did you pull the decal off could be a hidden screw under there.


The writing is laser etched on the plate, not a sticker. I don't want to ruin this if I can get away with it since I would rather someone else use this after I am done. Let's see what Watercool says.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I think that SFF is defined as 20L or smaller, but I've been wrong about that before.


I think it said its 30L or less. two slots only, and sfx/tfx psu.

Quote:


>


http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1737173


----------



## Gabrielzm

Basement of Grey matter is done. all tubes are laid now and ready to fill her up:


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The writing is laser etched on the plate, not a sticker. I don't want to ruin this if I can get away with it since I would rather someone else use this after I am done. Let's see what Watercool says.


For those who care, the plate was just stuck on there using double sided adhesive tape:










That made things much easier now


----------



## TheCautiousOne

For those Interested.









S3 Buildlog. We are getting closer

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> What case are you thinking of going with for that? I was looking into going *small form factor* too...Im thinking of going with the caselabs *S3* or *s5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Care to explain?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Case Labs and sff are like a stone compared to a mountain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh lol yea if I was putting a mitx in a sma8...I'm talking about putting an matx in a Mercury s5. That's the largest size allowed in that case.
> I would understand if he highlighted the case labs part but he highlighted s3 and s5. LOL!
Click to expand...

I know that it's their "sff" case but it's still pretty big. I checked one out to see if I want to use one for the girls' builds.









~Ceadder


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I know that it's their "sff" case but it's still pretty big. I checked one out to see if I want to use one for the girls' builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Isn't the NOVA their new "SFF" design? Still big, but definitely smaller than the SMA8.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I think their Nova is also SFF. I don't have their lineup in front of me being on my phone an all. Now I'm unsure dagnabbit.









Still, Case Labs isn't known for "small".








lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

The X2m comes in @ ~38.7L

S3 comes in @ ~38.8L

Both take atx size psu's and they're past the 30L mark.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I think their Nova is also SFF. I don't have their lineup in front of me being on my phone an all. Now I'm unsure dagnabbit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, Case Labs isn't known for "small".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


It is not small for sure. Plenty of space on the x2m:



x2m left and s5 right


----------



## Ceadderman

If I were building an HTPC for the Livingroom that would simply not do. Thing is humongous. But it can be watercooled.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If I were building an HTPC for the Livingroom that would simply not do. Thing is humongous. But it can be watercooled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


it certainly can:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The writing is laser etched on the plate, not a sticker. I don't want to ruin this if I can get away with it since I would rather someone else use this after I am done. Let's see what Watercool says.
> 
> 
> 
> For those who care, the plate was just stuck on there using double sided adhesive tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That made things much easier now
Click to expand...

Glad you got that sorted.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If I were building an HTPC for the Livingroom that would simply not do. Thing is humongous. But it can be watercooled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it certainly can:
Click to expand...

That thing looks like a standard MidTower.









I stand by my stone < Mountain comparison.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## catbuster

I would love to take photo of my compact splash next to S3 or Nova X2M


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, so I here I go...

1) I'll be getting the new EK Vardar 140 and 120 fans for my SMA8 build. I'll be using an RX360 and 560GTS. (I will be using SP120's for my RX480 and RX240, 3pin fans). Now that that vardars are PWM, I need something to control them. What's the cheapest way to control them via PWM rather than voltage. I'm not looking into paying $200 for an aquero, so something cheap that does well.

2) I may add another PWM pump to my build. I'm using an Asus Maximus VI hero, and I know the only true PWM headers are the CPU headers. How can I control two pumps?


----------



## emsj86

Cheapest way swiftech 8 way spittler pwm for 8 bucks. And if cables our not lob. Enough get two for total of 16 dollars and you will never see them. I use one and it works great for me. I may be wrong but as of recently z97 on up I believe all our true pwm for the most part on boards. Excluding amd boards


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Cheapest way swiftech 8 way spittler pwm for 8 bucks. And if cables our not lob. Enough get two for total of 16 dollars and you will never see them. I use one and it works great for me. I may be wrong but as of recently z97 on up I believe all our true pwm for the most part on boards. Excluding amd boards


But how does that work, since I'll be using two PWM pumps? That's where I'm confused


----------



## emsj86

What do you mean exactly. Depends on what you want to do. If it were me both pumps would go on pwm header (does t matter which) and than set the speed % off the cpu. Than for the swiftech spittler connect sata power than take the pwm wire to cpu header and the fans to spittler. The white connection on the spittler is your main fan and whatever that fan is set to the other fans will do the same. Obviously the sp120 3 pins won't work with it. But the cadets and the pumps will. Very small has adhesive to mount on the back of tray and away you go. And if you wanna control your 3 pin fans on the cheap without using a flex bay phanteks pwm hub will work bc it's actually not a pwm hub but rather using a 4 pin and works off voltage. Not sure if this was what your were asking


----------



## Ceadderman

AMD as far as I know are *true* PWM unless they're 3pin headers instead of 4pin. But same can be said of Intel mbs.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What do you mean exactly. Depends on what you want to do. If it were me both pumps would go on pwm header (does t matter which) and than set the speed % off the cpu. Than for the swiftech spittler connect sata power than take the pwm wire to cpu header and the fans to spittler. The white connection on the spittler is your main fan and whatever that fan is set to the other fans will do the same. Obviously the sp120 3 pins won't work with it. But the cadets and the pumps will. Very small has adhesive to mount on the back of tray and away you go. And if you wanna control your 3 pin fans on the cheap without using a flex bay phanteks pwm hub will work bc it's actually not a pwm hub but rather using a 4 pin and works off voltage. Not sure if this was what your were asking


I'll be using the 3 pin corsair fans on my Nzxt sentry mix 2. I'm just confused on the the swiftech controller works. That was what I was actually looking at before I posted my question. I'm confused because if I were to control the pumps via PWM, wouldn't the fans run at max, to be at the same rpm as the pumps since there all connected to the same header?


----------



## emsj86

Yes and no. If you have the. All on the same swiftech spittler it will depend what you set the percentages for in the bios. For example. I have 5 corsair pwm sp120 fans and a ddc pwm pump all did run off this spittler. I set it for if I remember 40% at low temp (30c) 60% mid temp 45 and 100% at high temp (65c). I since took the pump and ran the pwm header directly to cpu pwm header and made it's all curve and the fans stayed on the spittler on chassis fan one (my board is all pwm) and set it to there percentage. So you could do it all on one or if more comfortable get two spittler a which is still only 15-17 usd. Basically pwm running by percentage will just take max rpms knock off the percentage and it'll run at that rpm. So say pump at. 50% is 2000rpms your 2000 rpm fans will run at 1000rpms. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> AMD as far as I know are *true* PWM unless they're 3pin headers instead of 4pin. *But same can be said of Intel mbs.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think you meant the same can*NOT* be said for intel mobos. ?

The enthusiast x79, x99 have multiple pwm. The lga 1150 have cpu pwm only and some will run more headers in parallel with the cpu header on the same fan curve.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes and no. If you have the. All on the same swiftech spittler it will depend what you set the percentages for in the bios. For example. I have 5 corsair pwm sp120 fans and a ddc pwm pump all did run off this spittler. I set it for if I remember 40% at low temp (30c) 60% mid temp 45 and 100% at high temp (65c). I since took the pump and ran the pwm header directly to cpu pwm header and made it's all curve and the fans stayed on the spittler on chassis fan one (my board is all pwm) and set it to there percentage. So you could do it all on one or if more comfortable get two spittler a which is still only 15-17 usd. Basically pwm running by percentage will just take max rpms knock off the percentage and it'll run at that rpm. So say pump at. 50% is 2000rpms your 2000 rpm fans will run at 1000rpms. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


A pwm ddc will reach max rpm 4500 at around 50% pwm signal. That works better when sharing a pwm signal with fans so the fans do not get maxed same time as the pump. I like the pump maxed with my pwm fans at 1200rpm.

I think the pwm D5 curve does not max out at such a low percentage though.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



DDC Pwm curve









D5 pwm curve


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. Meant it how I said it.

3pin= Not PWM.
4pin= PWM.

Either a board has PWM capable headers including CPU, or it only has CPU and therefore not PWM. 4pin are true PWM.

So when I said the same could be said of Intel, that's what I meant. It really is dependent on the board. Since this is a generalization I'm not being specific to the chipset. I am sure there are exceptions.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. Meant it how I said it.
> 
> 3pin= Not PWM.
> 4pin= PWM.
> 
> Either a board has PWM capable headers including CPU, or it only has CPU and therefore not PWM. 4pin are true PWM.
> 
> So when I said the same could be said of Intel, that's what I meant. It really is dependent on the board. Since this is a generalization I'm not being specific to the chipset. I am sure there are exceptions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have 3 lga1150 asus mobos that have every header 4 pin but only 1 is pwm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure that's a limitation of the BIOS/UEFI and not the board itself.

ASUS boards are good for PWM through their software. Not sure what board you have but my old CIVF 4pins all work as PWM iirc.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure that's a limitation of the BIOS/UEFI and not the board itself.
> 
> ASUS boards are good for PWM through their software. Not sure what board you have but my old CIVF 4pins all work as PWM iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


z87, asus boards have 1 pwm. look it up. I have asus z87 plus, z87,A. and Maximus hero vi.

they only have 1 true pwm and cpu opt copies that same signal.

The rest are 4 pin but voltage controled with constant 5v on the pwm pin.

Z97 Asus boards will allow all the headers to copy the cpu but it is still only 1 true header.

more in depth analysis http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=66283p=575840


----------



## Ceadderman

All my headers are 4pin. So I will have to look through my manual to check that. I wps that my headers are PWM.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> All my headers are 4pin. So I will have to look through my manual to check that. I wps that my headers are PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


what mobo is it specifically?


----------



## Ceadderman

Crosshair IV Formula.










iirc The BIOS allows me to run PWM.









~Ceadder


----------



## wholeeo

All the fan headers on my board can be controlled via PWM or via Voltage. Maybe I'm misunderstanding something,


----------



## emsj86

Same here. Unless I'm wrong but my fan curve works great I have z97 Asus pro wifi.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Crosshair IV Formula.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> iirc The BIOS allows me to run PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


that is amd right? not what im talking about
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Same here. Unless I'm wrong but my fan curve works great I have z97 Asus pro wifi.


z97 asus they are pwm. i am mistakin. on my z87 they are not.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup, but it was what I was talking about regarding the PWM comment that was made regarding AMD.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> that is amd right? not what im talking about
> z97 asus will let u control them all but the cpu is pwm and all the others will mimic that curve.
> 
> if u set a curve on the non cpu header it is voltage controlled.


Exactly. Not all 4 pin headers in most boards are PWM. Asus boards are famous for that. Until recently (I mean the last x99 boards) usually only the cpu_fan header was true PWM capable. Even with the current x99 line up I haven't tested yet if all fan headers are true PWM but I heard reports that that is the case.

On other news grey matter is filled up and cleaning.


----------



## Wirerat

looks nice!

I am reading mixed things about z97, asus. someone will have to put a meter on the pwm pin of a non cpu header to know for sure.

I know z87 only have 1 though.


----------



## Domler

I have vi hero. All fan headers are 4pin pwm. Cpu1 2, and all three case fan headers.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I have vi hero. All fan headers are 4pin pwm. Cpu1 2, and all three case fan headers.


You have the maximus VI hero? If so, no not all fan headers are PWM and a good example off what is been said: not all 4 pin fan headers are PWM.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VI-HERO/E8459_Maximus_VI_Hero.pdf

notice that the chassis fan headers the usual blue wire is 5 v not pwm signal as a true PWM fan header.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You have the maximus VI hero? If so, no not all fan headers are PWM and a good example off what is been said: not all 4 pin fan headers are PWM.
> 
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VI-HERO/E8459_Maximus_VI_Hero.pdf
> 
> notice that the chassis fan headers the usual blue wire is 5 v not pwm signal as a true PWM fan header.


Just read. Didn't realise since I'm able to control the speed. I see is say 5v instead of pwm. I'm assuming that means you can go down only to 5v? Pwm can go lower? Just asking.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You have the maximus VI hero? If so, no not all fan headers are PWM and a good example off what is been said: not all 4 pin fan headers are PWM.
> 
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VI-HERO/E8459_Maximus_VI_Hero.pdf
> 
> notice that the chassis fan headers the usual blue wire is 5 v not pwm signal as a true PWM fan header.
> 
> 
> 
> Just read. Didn't realise since I'm able to control the speed. I see is say 5v instead of pwm. I'm assuming that means you can go down only to 5v? Pwm can go lower? Just asking.
Click to expand...

The 5V on the PWM signal line tells the internal electronics of a PWM fan to run the motor continuously from the supply voltage, and not to pulse the power to the motor.

The mobo header then varies the voltage that it supplies, so it seems like the fan is working normally, when in reality, it's just being voltage controlled.

This is why when guys try to run PWM pumps from the mobo headers other than CPU/Opt, they just run full speed, since the pumps usually get their power from the PSU, not the header, . . . and the 5V is telling the pump to run at max.

Darlene


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Just read. Didn't realise since I'm able to control the speed. I see is say 5v instead of pwm. I'm assuming that means you can go down only to 5v? Pwm can go lower? Just asking.


It means you can only controll your speed on cpu_fan and cpu_opt, the other 3 headers are stuck at whatever speed 5v signal equates to on the device your giving the pwm signal to. At least according to the manual.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The mobo header then varies the voltage that it supplies, so it seems like the fan is working normally, when in reality, it's just being voltage controlled.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for clearing that up, wasn't sure.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Just read. Didn't realise since I'm able to control the speed. I see is say 5v instead of pwm. I'm assuming that means you can go down only to 5v? Pwm can go lower? Just asking.


No mate. The pwm wire is the signal that tells the fan how fast to turn. It is the wire that carries the "Pulse-width modulation" signal. Here a good read:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 5V on the PWM signal line tells the internal electronics of a PWM fan to run the motor continuously from the supply voltage, and not to pulse the power to the motor.
> 
> The mobo header then varies the voltage that it supplies, so it seems like the fan is working normally, when in reality, it's just being voltage controlled.
> 
> This is why when guys try to run PWM pumps from the mobo headers other than CPU/Opt, they just run full speed, since the pumps usually get their power from the PSU, not the header, . . . and the 5V is telling the pump to run at max.
> 
> Darlene


^^this. So in short, yes you can control both types of fan from the chassis fan on your board (voltage or pwm fans) but the pwm fans are not been controlled by a true pwm signal. It is been mimicked by adjusting the voltage supplied to the fan which is not how pwm fans are intended to operate (at 12 v and switching on and off according to the PWM signal)


----------



## pc-illiterate

p67 and z68 and z77 and z87, 4pin voltage control for asus and gb boards.

domler, the pwm line is a pulsed 5v. longer pauses in pulse means a lower rpm/percentage.


----------



## SteezyTN

Okay, so what's the best way to control PWM fans? I'll be using my PWM D5 pumps via the CPU and CPU_opt on my VI Hero, but I need something for my vardar 120 and 140 fans.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, *so what's the best way to control PWM fans?* I'll be using my PWM D5 pumps via the CPU and CPU_opt on my VI Hero, but I need something for my vardar 120 and 140 fans.


An Aquaero 6 series, hands down, nothing else comes close or actually has PWM.


----------



## Wirerat

Phew... Thanks Gabrielzm. I couldnt type fast enough trying to explain the pwm thing with so many replies lol.

When I first found it out I was disappointed but I have found simple ways around it now.

Using a pwm pump and pwm fans is not too bad with a ddc because the ddc hits 100% rpm so low in the pwm scale. If i had a D5 on pwm I wouldnt use pwm fans as they would max about the same time.

Still not a big deal. I dont advise controlling pwm fans with undervoltage though. Thats were the confusion is. People see 4 pin and put a pwm fan there and it can actually reduce the life of the fan.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> An Aquaero 6 series, hands down, nothing else comes close or actually has PWM.


Without having to pay $200... Plus don't you need extras to make it work, so it would eventually be more?

Can the aquero work with 3 pin fans?


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, so what's the best way to control PWM fans? I'll be using my PWM D5 pumps via the CPU and CPU_opt on my VI Hero, but I need something for my vardar 120 and 140 fans.


Best way I would think is get a spliter for the pumps and have them running to the CPU_OPT, then get this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF6R4C8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=GJH7V91GJARJ&coliid=I2X2S1PICP0XPI for the vardar fans.

That way both the pumps would be controlled together because I don't see why you would want to run them at different speeds. And all the fans would be controlled together.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Without having to pay $200... Plus don't you need extras to make it work, so it would eventually be more?
> 
> Can the aquero work with 3 pin fans?


The Aquaero can of course work with voltage controlled fans.

As far as controllers go there is a severe lack of options. The only other one I know of is the corsair link one. I have no experience with it though so no idea how much control it provides.

That is the thing with pwm, it's a bit if a double edged sword at the moment. There is limited options for after market controllers, but at least the motherboard makers are finally implementing proper pwm support on new boards so there should be less need for fan controllers to run multiple fans.
Hell, on the new Sabertooth for example you get multiple pwm channels fit fans and pumps and even external temp sensor inputs so you can use water temp to set pump and fan speed ... That is more than most fan controllers can do. If that functionality had been available before I may never have started down the Aquaero rabbit hole.


----------



## Domler

Thanks for clearing that up for me guys. I guess the disicion to buy an aquaero is now settled. I knew they rocked, but I thought my vii formula took care of the fans. Learn something new every day.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The Aquaero can of course work with voltage controlled fans.
> 
> As far as controllers go there is a severe lack of options. The only other one I know of is the corsair link one. I have no experience with it though so no idea how much control it provides.
> 
> That is the thing with pwm, it's a bit if a double edged sword at the moment. There is limited options for after market controllers, but at least the motherboard makers are finally implementing proper pwm support on new boards so there should be less need for fan controllers to run multiple fans.
> Hell, on the new Sabertooth for example you get multiple pwm channels fit fans and pumps and even external temp sensor inputs so you can use water temp to set pump and fan speed ... That is more than most fan controllers can do. If that functionality had been available before I may never have started down the Aquaero rabbit hole.


That's why I ordered the SP120 3 pin fans. I can always control them via any fan connector and have no issues. Now that the EK vardar fans are only PWM, I'm in this situation. I completely forgot about the Corsair Link. Without spending all the money on an Aquero 6, I could just get the link. I think I'll just use that. Everyone says they have issues with it, but I don't recall any issues with link on my H100I.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, so what's the best way to control PWM fans? I'll be using my PWM D5 pumps via the CPU and CPU_opt on my VI Hero, but I need something for my vardar 120 and 140 fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Best way I would think is get a spliter for the pumps and have them running to the CPU_OPT, then get this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF6R4C8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=GJH7V91GJARJ&coliid=I2X2S1PICP0XPI for the vardar fans.
> 
> That way both the pumps would be controlled together because I don't see why you would want to run them at different speeds. And all the fans would be controlled together.
Click to expand...

I run 1 pump FT and switch off to ensure my backup is operational. Only occasionally will I run them both simultaneously.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's why I ordered the SP120 3 pin fans. I can always control them via any fan connector and have no issues. Now that the EK vardar fans are only PWM, I'm in this situation. I completely forgot about the Corsair Link. Without spending all the money on an Aquero 6, I could just get the link. I think I'll just use that. Everyone says they have issues with it, but I don't recall any issues with link on my H100I.


Careful. Corsair PWM fans are known to not operate strictly under intel specs. Ergo most likely the corsair link also don't follow strictly intel specs. So, corsair fan+corsair link everything fine. corsair link+vardars... who knowns since I am sure ek used intel strict pwm directions. Until the new EK fan controller is out we simply don't have any other pwm fan controller available. The best solution would be a pwm splitter like swiftech.


----------



## Ironsmack

Another option is, purchase an Aquaero LT + PWM splitter.

This is the main reason why i dislike PWM on multi rads/multi fans setup. Im much better using voltage controlled fans + a good fan splitters.

I was disappointed EK didnt release any 3 pin fans. Only PWM fans that has limited use for me.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Careful. Corsair PWM fans are known to not operate strictly under intel specs. Ergo most likely the corsair link also don't follow strictly intel specs. So, corsair fan+corsair link everything fine. corsair link+vardars... who knowns since I am sure ek used intel strict pwm directions. Until the new EK fan controller is out we simply don't have any other pwm fan controller available. The best solution would be a pwm splitter like swiftech.


EK is going to release a PWM fan controller? I really hope they release 3 pin fans because it makes things simple lol. I was going for the swiftech 8 way one, but it won't matter because I will be using my two pumps on the only PWM header on my mobo.


----------



## Ceadderman

Could a swore I saw 3pin Vardars on Performane-PCs.









~Ceadder


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Could a swore I saw 3pin Vardars on Performane-PCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nope, only pwm. Vardars are all 4-pin PWM


----------



## wermad

Begs the question if ek is still gonna do a pwm controller. In the testing, the controller wasn't bad but it wasn't that great tbh.


----------



## Ceadderman

Signalkuppe? But it won't be out for at least 1.5 months. If not longer. It's supposed to go into MP in August.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I just went back to the thread and Derick (aka Mr Orange) said its coming along.

edit:

Derick:


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> EK is going to release a PWM fan controller? I really hope they release 3 pin fans because it makes things simple lol. I was going for the swiftech 8 way one, but it won't matter because I will be using my two pumps on the only PWM header on my mobo.


I run the Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter on one Mobo PWM header and a 2 way splitter on the second PWM header to my EK DCP 4.0's. Works great thus far. With the 8 way, make sure you put a PWM device in the first channel. For some reason if you place a 3 pin it sort of makes everything run at that device's full speed (in my experience, 1350rpm without modulation on the other 4 PWM actual devices).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I run the Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter on one Mobo PWM header and a 2 way splitter on the second PWM header to my EK DCP 4.0's. Works great thus far. With the 8 way, make sure you put a PWM device in the first channel. For some reason if you place a 3 pin it sort of makes everything run at that device's full speed (in my experience, 1350rpm without modulation on the other 4 PWM actual devices).


Well here's the problem. There's the CPU fan and CPU_opt headers. If I plug the swiftech controller to my opt header, it will be based on the settings I have for the pumps via the main CPU fan header. The opt and main header are one in one and mirror each other. So if I have my pumps running at the highest speed, so will my fans connected to the swiftech controller.

So now I don't know what to do, unless I run the 4 pins fans on my voltage controller device. I don't want to do that because of the issues associated with PWM fans being voltage controlled.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's why I ordered the SP120 3 pin fans. I can always control them via any fan connector and have no issues. Now that the EK vardar fans are only PWM, I'm in this situation. I completely forgot about the Corsair Link. Without spending all the money on an Aquero 6, I could just get the link. I think I'll just use that. Everyone says they have issues with it, but I don't recall any issues with link on my H100I.
> 
> 
> 
> Careful. Corsair PWM fans are known to not operate strictly under intel specs. Ergo most likely the corsair link also don't follow strictly intel specs. So, corsair fan+corsair link everything fine. corsair link+vardars... who knowns since I am sure ek used intel strict pwm directions. Until the new EK fan controller is out we simply don't have any other pwm fan controller available. The best solution would be a pwm splitter like swiftech.
Click to expand...

HeretEK is using a Link kit with Vardars and an EK PWM DDC

No reported problems other than the fans and pumps not hitting top speeds. Control is all there and its much more intuitive to use than the Aquaero.

Would I recommend it tho?

No.

All the headers are low power,while it can control pump via PWM,I would stress that you cant power it from the unit . All the headers are low power and without active cooling I wouldnt consider hooking a pump power up.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> HeretEK is using a Link kit with Vardars and an EK PWM DDC
> 
> No reported problems other than the fans and pumps not hitting top speeds. Control is all there and its much more intuitive to use than the Aquaero.
> 
> Would I recommend it tho?
> 
> No.
> 
> All the headers are low power,while it can control pump via PWM,I would stress that you cant power it from the unit . All the headers are low power and without active cooling I wouldnt consider hooking a pump power up.


I was planning on hooking up my D5 PWM to the CPU header on my Asus Maximus Vi hero because it's the only true PWM connector. All I would control is the 7 vardar fans (4 140's when released and 3 120's). Would you recommend corsair link for those 7 fans?


----------



## deadwidesmile

Right! Damn! I'm really off my game tonight, fellas.

Running the 8-way would definitely scale the same as the pumps. (Derp on my end)

I don't think I've encountered that problem as I run them kind of in sync with each other. If the temps raise I want the pumps + fans to go higher. But, running DCP's they tend to be a bit noisier than the D5 at full blast.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> HeretEK is using a Link kit with Vardars and an EK PWM DDC
> 
> No reported problems other than the fans and pumps not hitting top speeds. Control is all there and its much more intuitive to use than the Aquaero.
> 
> Would I recommend it tho?
> 
> No.
> 
> All the headers are low power,while it can control pump via PWM,I would stress that you cant power it from the unit . All the headers are low power and without active cooling I wouldnt consider hooking a pump power up.
> 
> 
> 
> I was planning on hooking up my D5 PWM to the CPU header on my Asus Maximus Vi hero because it's the only true PWM connector. All I would control is the 7 vardar fans (4 140's when released and 3 120's). Would you recommend corsair link for those 7 fans?
Click to expand...

I do not recommend hooking any pump to a mobo header in any way other than RPM reporting or PWM control. Mobo headers cannot cope with the draw over time and will fail,potentially taking the whole board with it.

It has 6 headers so you would be piggybacking 2 of those....Which I wouldnt really recommend on the Link. It really is one fan per header.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do not recommend hooking any pump to a mobo header in any way other than RPM reporting or PWM control. Mobo headers cannot cope with the draw over time and will fail,potentially taking the whole board with it.
> 
> It has 6 headers so you would be piggybacking 2 of those....Which I wouldnt really recommend on the Link. It really is one fan per header.


That's disconcerting. I'm running two pumps off of the motherboard headers









Any recommendation for what to run two pumps off of? The A6 would be nice but I'm not really into dropping $200 for a controller at the moment.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do not recommend hooking any pump to a mobo header in any way other than RPM reporting or PWM control. Mobo headers cannot cope with the draw over time and will fail,potentially taking the whole board with it.
> 
> It has 6 headers so you would be piggybacking 2 of those....Which I wouldnt really recommend on the Link. It really is one fan per header.


It'll only be done for PWM control for the pump(s) (RPM changing when needed). It will still be powered via molex from the PSU. So for 7 pumps (5 fans on their own channel and 2 fans using a splitter), you still don't recommend the link?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> HeretEK is using a Link kit with Vardars and an EK PWM DDC
> 
> No reported problems other than the fans and pumps not hitting top speeds. Control is all there and its much more intuitive to use than the Aquaero.
> 
> Would I recommend it tho?
> 
> No.
> 
> All the headers are low power,while it can control pump via PWM,I would stress that you cant power it from the unit . All the headers are low power and without active cooling I wouldnt consider hooking a pump power up.


Thks for the feedback B. Good to known it does work. I really was not sure how would it go with non-corsair fans and thought was a fair warning to Steezy.


----------



## kevzhu

My first watercooling build, just finished









I give you Green Caffeine
More pics & build thread here


----------



## ozzy1925

Is there a way to find a small leak in the system?I checked my loop with an air leak tester and i see small drop like 0.5 psi after 2 hours after i filled it with distilled water put toilet papers around every possible fittings but cant see any water drop checking many often but my room temperature is around 27-28c so i wonder if the water on the paper vaporize after leak and i miss .?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Is there a way to find a small leak in the system?I checked my loop with an air leak tester and i see small drop like 0.5 psi after 2 hours after i filled it with distilled water put toilet papers around every possible fittings but cant see any water drop checking many often but my room temperature is around 27-28c so i wonder if the water on the paper vaporize after leak and i miss .?


did you have ball valves or similar isolating the air leak Shrader valve and manometer? Usually those adapters can leak a bit and a ball valve comes in handy to isolate those small leaks. I am just (perhaps wishful thinking) wondering if that small leak did not come from the adapters...


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevzhu*
> 
> My first watercooling build, just finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give you Green Caffeine
> More pics & build thread here
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice build !!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> It'll only be done for PWM control for the pump(s) (RPM changing when needed). It will still be powered via molex from the PSU. So for 7 pumps (5 fans on their own channel and 2 fans using a splitter), you still don't recommend the link?


I haven't used one yet but I'm thinking of getting one just for a testing rig. It seems to be able to do what you want without any trouble and there is software available that improves it over the standard stuff by removing the 40% minimum and offering more control.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Is there a way to find a small leak in the system?I checked my loop with an air leak tester and i see small drop like 0.5 psi after 2 hours after i filled it with distilled water put toilet papers around every possible fittings but cant see any water drop checking many often but my room temperature is around 27-28c so i wonder if the water on the paper vaporize after leak and i miss .?


A small drop like that does not mean a leak that is worth worrying about to me. When i air leak test unless the guage is almost visibly moving i consider it leak free. I think 10 mins is plenty of time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevzhu*
> 
> My first watercooling build, just finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give you Green Caffeine
> More pics & build thread here
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's very pretty, and the colour is nice.
How are the temps?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> did you have ball valves or similar isolating the air leak Shrader valve and manometer? Usually those adapters can leak a bit and a ball valve comes in handy to isolate those small leaks. I am just (perhaps wishful thinking) wondering if that small leak did not come from the adapters...


i re tested my air tester for the night and its stable here is my set up:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008E5CP1K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YPAFY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VYJVWI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
2 barbs with clamps and plastic tubing here:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I haven't used one yet but I'm thinking of getting one just for a testing rig. It seems to be able to do what you want without any trouble and there is software available that improves it over the standard stuff by removing the 40% minimum and offering more control.
> A small drop like that does not mean a leak that is worth worrying about to me. When i air leak test unless the guage is almost visibly moving i consider it leak free. I think 10 mins is plenty of time.


so i should leave as is? because i tought we should do at least 1 to 2 hours for the test?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Has anyone tested these http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-rgb-led-strip-black-length-50cm.html RGB Strips out?

I already ordered them, since I had excess paypal funds, but just curious on others thought so far. Sorry, I can't seem to grab the link to the picture.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Has anyone tested these http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-rgb-led-strip-black-length-50cm.html RGB Strips out?
> 
> I already ordered them, since I had excess paypal funds, but just curious on others thought so far. Sorry, I can't seem to grab the link to the picture.


You can get these for wayyyy cheaper on Amazon. Just need a soldering gun. If you're going Rgb on these you'll need some sort of controller too.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Has anyone tested these http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-rgb-led-strip-black-length-50cm.html RGB Strips out?
> 
> I already ordered them, since I had excess paypal funds, but just curious on others thought so far. Sorry, I can't seem to grab the link to the picture.


I looked at those, but ended up going with this instead. It comes with 2-12" light strips and works very well with the supplied remote control to can change to 15 colors and change the brightness of the lighting.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811980001


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just went back to the thread and Derick (aka Mr Orange) said its coming along.
> 
> edit:
> 
> Derick:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mr Pink was my Fav









TCO


----------



## emsj86

Anyone know how or if it's possible to remove the copper colored alphacool brand on the side of there ut60 radiators. I want to paint them but rather not paint over the branding


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone know how or if it's possible to remove the copper colored alphacool brand on the side of there ut60 radiators. I want to paint them but rather not paint over the branding


it used to be that those were stickers so a little heat and a sharp blade is all you need. But since Alphacool have different rads out there with differences on the label not sure this is your case. Post a pic here so we can check.

Night shot of the grey matter with PSU dressed in grey for the ball:


----------



## Kimir

Yes, they are stickers, I didn't even put mine on (they came with them not on the rads).


----------



## emsj86

Nice thank you. Yes there def not the newer ones. And btw that build looks sweet. Going to paint my sm8 hopefully in the coming weeks. Just not sure with white interior do I paint the rads white or go with matte black as that will be the exterior color and fans our black


----------



## Recr3ational

any recommendation on a res similar to the swiftech micro res?
I don't have much room in the Prodigy.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevzhu*
> 
> My first watercooling build, just finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give you Green Caffeine
> More pics & build thread here
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, especially for first build


----------



## timerwin63

Anyone have any idea where to get semi-gloss white, purple, and grey spray paint in the US for my next build? I tried Home Depot, but they only had high gloss purple, and that won't really do. Matte would also work (and honestly, it'd be preferable), but I'd be worried that it would scratch really easily, and as this build would be moving around a lot while I'm back at college (probably at least once a week across campus), I don't want it to get too dinged up if I hit anything.


----------



## kevzhu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*


Beautiful tubing runs!


----------



## kevzhu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Anyone have any idea where to get semi-gloss white, purple, and grey spray paint in the US for my next build? I tried Home Depot, but they only had high gloss purple, and that won't really do. Matte would also work (and honestly, it'd be preferable), but I'd be worried that it would scratch really easily, and as this build would be moving around a lot while I'm back at college (probably at least once a week across campus), I don't want it to get too dinged up if I hit anything.


Could try an art store for higher quality more expensive paint. Either way, I'd recommend a clear protective coat, wish I had done one but will definitely next time


----------



## ozzy1925

Are these tiny spots air bubbles if yes how can get rid ofthem?thanks


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Are these tiny spots air bubbles if yes how can get rid ofthem?thanks


Theyre bubbles. They will go away. Give it a few days. I had those in my Photon pump/res too


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Fans Fans Fans!


----------



## Ironsmack

@B NEGATIVE BeQuiet fans?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevzhu*
> 
> My first watercooling build, just finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give you Green Caffeine
> More pics & build thread
> here
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice work there, definitely something to be proud of.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Are these tiny spots air bubbles if yes how can get rid ofthem?thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tiny bubbles will usually disappear i an day or two unless your return line back into the reservoir is higher than the water level.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE BeQuiet fans?


Yeah the silent wings 2, probably. Nice touch with the wooden stickers in there.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Theyre bubbles. They will go away. Give it a few days. I had those in my Photon pump/res too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Tiny bubbles will usually disappear i an day or two unless your return line back into the reservoir is higher than the water level.


thank you both i use ek 250ml multitop with internal Tube 12/16 140mm and that goes inside the water is that the problem? Doing a leak test


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE BeQuiet fans?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah the silent wings 2, probably. Nice touch with the wooden stickers in there.
Click to expand...

Indeed they are,its brushed copper electrode film tho...not wood.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thank you both i use ek 250ml multitop with internal Tube 12/16 140mm and that goes inside the water is that the problem? Doing a leak test


It seems to just take longer for the small bubbles to release from the sides. Happens in every loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

If have fill port leave cap off for a day or so. They'll work themselves out.









~Ceadder


----------



## 8bitjunkie

my mayhem ultra clear tubing came in today, I got the 3/8ID with 5/8OD. just want to confirm fits nice and tight on my monsoon fittings.

just a heads up if any one was wanting this stuff.









http://imgur.com/6STJSZ0


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I looked at those, but ended up going with this instead. It comes with 2-12" light strips and works very well with the supplied remote control to can change to 15 colors and change the brightness of the lighting.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811980001


I will give them a look if these don't work out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> You can get these for wayyyy cheaper on Amazon. Just need a soldering gun. If you're going Rgb on these you'll need some sort of controller too.


I couldn't my paypal to work with Amazon from some reason, and I wasn't waiting 5 extra days to transfer the funds. I have the Aquaero 6xt, which is a fan controller with built in RGB controller.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Indeed they are,its brushed copper electrode film tho...not wood.


Make more sense with the front copper of the case, indeed. I swear it look like wood on the phone.









btw, may I re-request those three following pics in higher res, say 1440p, for wallpaper usage?









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MadHatter5045

^ I would like high res wallpapers of those as well







.


----------



## wermad

Color never really did it for me tbh but the rest is fantastic! Very few Vulture's made it out and they've all be transformed by excellent modders







.

edit: from the contest, GT3 RS was my favorite (followed by anvil).

http://www.overclock.net/t/1550926/official-ek-vulture-mod-off-discussion-thread

But i voted for Dericks (







)


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> You can get these for wayyyy cheaper on Amazon. Just need a soldering gun. If you're going Rgb on these you'll need some sort of controller too.


I couldn't my paypal to work with Amazon from some reason, and I wasn't waiting 5 extra days to transfer the funds. I have the Aquaero 6xt, which is a fan controller with built in RGB controller.[/quote]

O ok
I'd recommend getting the Amazon prime store card. They give you 5% back on all prime purchases, which in my state negates tax. Definitely shop around though because you can get these cheap on eBay too if you don't mind waiting on China lol. The price for these on PPC is kinda ridiculous


----------



## Ceadderman

I am done with Amazon. They're trying to be Costco now.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I retain loyalty go places that have great customer service. They've bent the rules a lot for me so that's why I give them my business. However I still go to microcenter for hardware when I can because I can replace anything through their accidental plan. God forbid my CPU or board craps out, that's a definite possibility watercooling.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am done with Amazon. They're trying to be Costco now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


NEVER









I Love Amazon.









TCO


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am done with Amazon. They're trying to be Costco now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










I fight you!

Take it back!


----------



## wermad

Amazon points...need em for those mlp toys my little goes crazy for. New movie coming out, means more EG dolls to pick up...


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Amazon points...need em for those mlp toys my little goes crazy for. New movie coming out, means more EG dolls to pick up...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am done with Amazon. They're trying to be Costco now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fight you!
> 
> Take it back!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am done with Amazon. They're trying to be Costco now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NEVER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Love Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

TBH Amazon retains loyalty for the same reason that EVGA does. The Strix 980 outperformed the EVGA 980 SC but I'd rather go EVGA because they have won my loyalty. If that makes me a fanboy, fine, but I;d rather stick with the company that gives me a #2 product but #1 customer service than the other way around. Ive dealt with Asus customer service, and it's nothing to write home about. Amazon is the same way...Ive returned so much stuff to them it's crazy, but every time they accepted with no questions asked. Of course theyre a larger company, But some companies can afford to do so but dont.

Of course I still shop around, but with free shipping both ways (in cases of damage) and for some people, no tax its a great deal! On everything except for CPUs lolol, and of course the 980 Ti right now that sits ~$750

The scary thing is, just think - if you worked from home, theoretically you never have to leave your house lolol Just get peapod to deliver groceries, and all your other stuff from amazon! LOLOLOL!


----------



## wermad

Asus warranty was awesome when I recently had to rma my little one's tablet. Msi is also fantastic. Thermaltake is one of the worse out there (including their support).


----------



## Ceadderman

Amazon taxes. In their defense however, they only do so for the States that require sales tax for items shipped from that state to the same state. But they do have tax.









I'm just done with them over this blatant membership requirement in order to get the same deal as everyone else. I don't pay fees to be a shopper. I'm a consumer not a seller.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Amazon taxes. In their defense however, they only do so for the States that require sales tax for items shipped from that state to the same state. But they do have tax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just done with them over this blatant membership requirement in order to get the same deal as everyone else. I don't pay fees to be a shopper. I'm a consumer not a seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If you use your student email, you can get it free for 6-12 months...and then it's $50 to make it permanent. I assume you went to college?

$50 isnt that much at all...You get that back in time saved from their prime shipping, which can either be same day, 1 day, or 2 days. You're saving that and wayyy more in shipping costs alone

And in terms of their taxes, I live in VA and there's an amazon center near me so I get charged 6%. But i have the prime store card that gives me 5% back, so i basically pay 1% tax lol


----------



## Ceadderman

No longer student. No student email.

Sucks for Amazon.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Amazon taxes. In their defense however, they only do so for the States that require sales tax for items shipped from that state to the same state. But they do have tax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just done with them over this blatant membership requirement in order to get the same deal as everyone else. I don't pay fees to be a shopper. I'm a consumer not a seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I would have to say that 80% of the things I ordered from amazon I don't see taxes or shipping.

TCO


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No longer student. No student email.
> 
> Sucks for Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Im not a student technically but your student email should still be active, as long as you remember your password









Im pretty sure they dont delete student email accounts after the fact.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Amazon taxes. In their defense however, they only do so for the States that require sales tax for items shipped from that state to the same state. But they do have tax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just done with them over this blatant membership requirement in order to get the same deal as everyone else. I don't pay fees to be a shopper. I'm a consumer not a seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have to say that 80% of the things I ordered from amazon I don't see taxes or shipping.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

you probably dont live in a state where they have a shipping center. There's one near me in my state so sucks for me


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> TBH Amazon retains loyalty for the same reason that EVGA does. The Strix 980 outperformed the EVGA 980 SC but I'd rather go EVGA because they have won my loyalty. If that makes me a fanboy, fine, but I;d rather stick with the company that gives me a #2 product but #1 customer service than the other way around. Ive dealt with Asus customer service, and it's nothing to write home about. Amazon is the same way...Ive returned so much stuff to them it's crazy, but every time they accepted with no questions asked. Of course theyre a larger company, But some companies can afford to do so but dont.
> 
> Of course I still shop around, but with free shipping both ways (in cases of damage) and for some people, no tax its a great deal! On everything except for CPUs lolol, and of course the 980 Ti right now that sits ~$750
> 
> The scary thing is, just think - if you worked from home, theoretically you never have to leave your house lolol Just get peapod to deliver groceries, and all your other stuff from amazon! LOLOLOL!


^this .... NOt even about #2 products. They OFFER EVERYTHING!!!! And at marginally cheaper prices. Seeing how I'm in the middle of po-dunk town it's nice because I'm not going to drive to the big city to get something I can have the next day or the day after. Totally worth it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Amazon taxes. In their defense however, they only do so for the States that require sales tax for items shipped from that state to the same state. But they do have tax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just done with them over this blatant membership requirement in order to get the same deal as everyone else. I don't pay fees to be a shopper. I'm a consumer not a seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No longer student. No student email.
> 
> Sucks for Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Enroll. Hahahah

Seriously though $99 year is cheap compared to what I spend each year between computer components, clothes, supplements, knick knack crap. Probably sucks for the average joe who just wants to buy an item here and there though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Im not a student technically but your student email should still be active, as long as you remember your password
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im pretty sure they dont delete student email accounts after the fact.
> you probably dont live in a state where they have a shipping center. There's one near me in my state so sucks for me


So you are saying you have to pay shipping because there is a shipping center near you?

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Nah, give me best price you can without conning me into a yearly membership.


----------



## crafty615

my student amazon prime only costs me ~$35 per year. With how much I buy from amazon, I'll take that anyday haha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Nah, give me best price you can without conning me into a yearly membership.


I've never been conned into getting the membership in the 5 years I've shopped on amazon. And I think for like... a good 6 months I was getting items within 2 days after purchase, with NO membership.

TCO


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Im not a student technically but your student email should still be active, as long as you remember your password
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im pretty sure they dont delete student email accounts after the fact.
> you probably dont live in a state where they have a shipping center. There's one near me in my state so sucks for me
> 
> 
> 
> So you are saying you have to pay shipping because there is a shipping center near you?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

No, I have to pay taxes because it is being sold to me within my own state via its distribution center. Interstate commerce doesnt require tax, but instate commerce does.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Nah, give me best price you can without conning me into a yearly membership.


This.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I will kung fu some peeps in here talking about my baby Amazon.










TCO


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it used to be that those were stickers so a little heat and a sharp blade is all you need. But since Alphacool have different rads out there with differences on the label not sure this is your case. Post a pic here so we can check.
> 
> Night shot of the grey matter with PSU dressed in grey for the ball:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












How did you modify the PSU sticker? My HX1000i's horrible blue is disgusting to me.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you modify the PSU sticker? My HX1000i's horrible blue is disgusting to me.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1070408/custom-psu-sticker-thread

there is a bunch of models there for the take. You can then adjust the color to your liking and then print in vinyl like I did. This one I am using was kindly done for me by @guitarhero23. Thks again mate.







I just adjusted a bit the color (shade of grey) and the size of the sticker. Need to design one for the ram modules now...


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you modify the PSU sticker? My HX1000i's horrible blue is disgusting to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1070408/custom-psu-sticker-thread
> 
> there is a bunch of models there for the take. You can then adjust the color to your liking and then print in vinyl like I did. This one I am using was kindly done for me by @guitarhero23. Thks again mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just adjusted a bit the color (shade of grey) and the size of the sticker. Need to design one for the ram modules now...
Click to expand...

Anytime you got an ugly sticker, you can also carbon fiber it out. All you need is a heatgun, which many of us watercoolers already have









DiNOC is the best, but you can also go with Scotchprint. When the DINOC is hot, it acts like silk
I put DINOC up on the motherboard tray, and its a great way to make your DVD drive not look so ugly. http://www.amazon.com/Black-3M-DI-NOC-Carbon-CA-421/dp/B0062A7M2G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437006119&sr=8-1&keywords=DINOC
Grey carbon fiber scotchprint is what I have on my GFX backplates and the midplate i made for the 900D. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchprint-Carbon-Fiber-Anthracite/dp/B00597WDN6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1437006135&sr=8-14&keywords=SCOTCHPRINT

Bill from MNPCTech talked about DiNOC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9jHSqp6K5E

If you look through my picture gallery you can see where I applied the carbon fiber.


----------



## Ceadderman

My way of making my rewrite DVD drive look good is to not install it at all. Just leave it on top of the table power the system off, connect it to the PSU and to an open SATA port, install/burn whatever I need. Reverse the process and shelve it for the next time. Simple.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I've never been conned into getting the membership in the 5 years I've shopped on amazon. And I think for like... a good 6 months I was getting items within 2 days after purchase, with NO membership.
> 
> TCO


lol









I'm glad it works for you, but I don't shop amazon enough to make it worthwhile. I'm a little oldschool when it comes to this though.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My way of making my rewrite DVD drive look good is to not install it at all. Just leave it on top of the table power the system off, connect it to the PSU and to an open SATA port, install/burn whatever I need. Reverse the process and shelve it for the next time. Simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea well i guess im just one of those people who still needs a drive. Thank God this one is whisper quiet.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Amazon prime is really useful when you have to buy random pieces that you can't get locally.

For example, if I need some polish for my car, I can pay 9+shipping from an online retailer or I can pay 9 shipped to my house from Amazon. Or if I'm buying pens, I can pick a pen I really want on Amazon vs the shoddy overpriced selection at a local store.

Amazon isn't really that great if you're buying big expensive stuff, but it's totally worth it for the smaller items.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My way of making my rewrite DVD drive look good is to not install it at all. Just leave it on top of the table power the system off, connect it to the PSU and to an open SATA port, install/burn whatever I need. Reverse the process and shelve it for the next time. Simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I do something similar I got an Lg external BD/dvd writor. I probably dont make 3 discs a year. Most of them time its for other people.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

I must say me and my family really like having prime. kids use it for shows and movies as well as my wife sometimes( she prefers netfilx's shows).

I like the 2 day shipping as it works great to get something in one to two days, just last year my daughter wanted to change her Halloween costume a week before trick or treat. I went on amazon got the spider girl custom she wanted in one day. also works nice to send gift around the country to friend and family.

bought my wife the fire phone last X-mas for like $180 with a free year of prime, I might get one myself , my nexus 5 is acting up lately and I cant really afford any thing else. that free year of prime is the icing on the cake with that phone.

IMO I don't think I would have a need for prime with out others to share with. (wife/kids)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Amazon prime is really useful when you have to buy random pieces that you can't get locally.
> 
> For example, if I need some polish for my car, I can pay 9+shipping from an online retailer or I can pay 9 shipped to my house from Amazon. Or if I'm buying pens, I can pick a pen I really want on Amazon vs the shoddy overpriced selection at a local store.
> 
> Amazon isn't really that great if you're buying big expensive stuff, but it's totally worth it for the smaller items.


love getting little cables and adapters that would cost 15-30 bucks in a store and get the same thing or better for 5-6 bucks shipped.

bought ipad mini 2 charging/sink 10' cables x2 when I first got it and a case too for like $19 shipped. the case is really nice too.

this is the case highly recommended
http://www.amazon.com/KHOMO-iPad-Retina-Released-Built-/dp/B009UZ3TF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437011173&sr=8-1&keywords=ipad+mini+2+case

other news I got my 240mm rad in and my tubing today. just waiting on my gentle typhoons now


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would have to say that 80% of the things I ordered from amazon I don't see taxes or shipping.
> 
> TCO


That's because you're in Louisiana. There's nothing good in Louisiana in terms of, well, everything









Most people get stuck paying for taxes. Amazon charges me the normal 8%, and only free shipping over $35. I just don't feel like paying $52 for Amazon student lol, but taxes are why I shop at Tigerdirect.


----------



## crafty615

Main thing that sucks is that outdated hardware (like LGA 1155 processors) are not stocked at newegg once new stuff comes out and one of the only places I can find, for example, an intel i7 3770K is amazon but it's priced at $500


----------



## Wirerat

I pay taxes at amazon since lastyear. Newegg on the other hand is still tax free in GA.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Guys, come on. This isn't the "discuss Amazon prime" thread, it's the OCN Water Cooling Club and Picture Gallery. These conversations are WAY off topic.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Guys, come on. This isn't the "discuss Amazon prime" thread, it's the OCN Water Cooling Club and Picture Gallery. These conversations are WAY off topic.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


AWWW you just beat me to it!!!! lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would have to say that 80% of the things I ordered from amazon I don't see taxes or shipping.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> That's because you're in Louisiana. There's nothing good in Louisiana in terms of, well, everything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people get stuck paying for taxes. Amazon charges me the normal 8%, and only free shipping over $35. I just don't feel like paying $52 for Amazon student lol, but taxes are why I shop at Tigerdirect.
Click to expand...

The Big Easy? French Quarter? Sorry but there's quite few good things there. Unfortunately the politicians' hold Louisianna back. Gumbo!!! MARDIGRAS!









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Off topic, anyone own an asus x99 Deluxe? I thought there was an owners club...(







)

This question can be correlated to wc in 3-way btw to keep it somewhat connected


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Off topic, anyone own an asus x99 Deluxe? I thought there was an owners club...(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> This question can be correlated to wc in 3-way btw to keep it somewhat connected


here we go wer:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1510328/asus-x99-motherboard-series-official-support-thread-north-american-users-only

Chessboard was built around the x99 deluxe:


----------



## wermad

Sweet


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks good Gabe.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Very slick


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet


Here we go Wer:



14 cm overall.

Thks guys. Cheesboard is rocking solid for months now. Just trying to finish Grey Matter now.


----------



## wermad

Awesome


----------



## ozzy1925

Should i open the res top port to get the bubbles out when tilting the case or leave it closed when pumps are running?


----------



## Ceadderman

Just came up with my choice of exterior for Darkside. Will post new build log starting sometime next month.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Coming along folks. I put the Aquaero to work today along with all fans and sensors. 4 main leds stripes done and provide quite some illumination. Some night shots. Nothing but the light of the _Grey Matter_ as a source:






don't mind the cables except for the cpu one none are definitive. This is the only part of the build I will ask a third party (Joey from ensourced) to do some for me.


----------



## alpenwasser

Looking sharp man, looking sharp.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Where'd you get that res?


----------



## By-Tor

Looks good. That's a lot of water!!!


----------



## omitica

CPU: i5 2500k
Waterblock: Swiftech Apogee XL
GPU: Zotac GTX 970
Waterblock: Alphacool Nexxxos M01
Mobo: Gigabyte P67A-UD3-B3
Ram: 2x4GB ADATA 1.65V @1600
PSU: Seasonic Platinum 660W
Radiator: 3x120mm and 2x120mm.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Coming along folks. I put the Aquaero to work today along with all fans and sensors. 4 main leds stripes done and provide quite some illumination. Some night shots. Nothing but the light of the _Grey Matter_ as a source:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> don't mind the cables except for the cpu one none are definitive. This is the only part of the build I will ask a third party (Joey from ensourced) to do some for me.


Like it,the white light is a bit stark tho.....Thought about a dimmable RGB kit?

They do great things for a rig.


----------



## Artah

Hi guys, was looking for ideas on how to flush out a possibly clogged CPU block without removing it or taking it apart. I've opened that thing before and it's difficult to clean it. It's an EKWB Supremacy EVO. I wish I can just reverse the pump to flush it out. If you have a method that works without taking things apart please share. The clog is most likely from the paint from bitspower fittings since that's what I cleaned out last time. Thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Hi guys, was looking for ideas on how to flush out a possibly clogged CPU block without removing it or taking it apart. I've opened that thing before and it's difficult to clean it. It's an EKWB Supremacy EVO. I wish I can just reverse the pump to flush it out. If you have a method that works without taking things apart please share. The clog is most likely from the paint from bitspower fittings since that's what I cleaned out last time. Thanks.


Sadly there are no shortcuts,strip it and do a proper job.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omitica*
> 
> CPU: i5 2500k
> Waterblock: Swiftech Apogee XL
> GPU: Zotac GTX 970
> Waterblock: Alphacool Nexxxos M01
> Mobo: Gigabyte P67A-UD3-B3
> Ram: 2x4GB ADATA 1.65V @1600
> PSU: Seasonic Platinum 660W
> Radiator: 3x120mm and 2x120mm.


Hehe, Sandy Bridge FTW! (I'm still on Sandy and LGA1366 in my machines).


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly there are no shortcuts,strip it and do a proper job.


Thanks. I was afraid of that answer but I knew it was coming. The painted bitspower stuff is nice but they should have baked the paint in sigh.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Hi guys, was looking for ideas on how to flush out a possibly clogged CPU block without removing it or taking it apart. I've opened that thing before and it's difficult to clean it. It's an EKWB Supremacy EVO. I wish I can just reverse the pump to flush it out. If you have a method that works without taking things apart please share. The clog is most likely from the paint from bitspower fittings since that's what I cleaned out last time. Thanks.


Did you paint the fittings, or did some paint flake when you were tightening them down?

TCO


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Did you paint the fittings, or did some paint flake when you were tightening them down?
> 
> TCO


All my fittings are the white versions of bitspower, tightening them caused them to flake off. Next time I will work the threads and then clean them off before putting them in my loop but it's too late for that now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> All my fittings are the white versions of bitspower, tightening them caused them to flake off. Next time I will work the threads and then clean them off before putting them in my loop but it's too late for that now.










I used the same fittings (Deluxe white) in my build on the SMA8 and didn't have a prob, although I tightened and re tightened so many times I did clean them up before final installation.

THe Supremacy won't take to long to clean. Good luck.

TCO


----------



## Jasonbla20

Can anyone recommend a watercooling case that can support 3 large radiators? I'm looking for something that can do 2 360's + 1 240, or better.

Here's what I've looked into:
Corsair Obsidian 750d: My current case
Corsair Obsidian 900d: Good rad support, but Corsair cases are not well thought out - rivets everywhere and poor airflow.
Phanteks Enthoo Primo: Excellent case, but Fugly as hell, imo.

Can anyone recommend anything else?

Thanks!


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonbla20*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a watercooling case that can support 3 large radiators? I'm looking for something that can do 2 360's + 1 240, or better.
> 
> Here's what I've looked into:
> Corsair Obsidian 750d: My current case
> Corsair Obsidian 900d: Good rad support, but Corsair cases are not well thought out - rivets everywhere and poor airflow.
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo: Excellent case, but Fugly as hell, imo.
> 
> Can anyone recommend anything else?
> 
> Thanks!


Definitely go CaseLabs maybe like an S8 with two 360s on top.

https://www.caselabs-store.com


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the same fittings (Deluxe white) in my build on the SMA8 and didn't have a prob, although I tightened and re tightened so many times I did clean them up before final installation.
> 
> THe Supremacy won't take to long to clean. Good luck.
> 
> TCO


I wish I had done that from the beginning, this particular rig was my first so I was a full blown nub back then. I should have talked to you or posted on here before starting hehe.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonbla20*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a watercooling case that can support 3 large radiators? I'm looking for something that can do 2 360's + 1 240, or better.
> 
> Here's what I've looked into:
> Corsair Obsidian 750d: My current case
> Corsair Obsidian 900d: Good rad support, but Corsair cases are not well thought out - rivets everywhere and poor airflow.
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo: Excellent case, but Fugly as hell, imo.
> 
> Can anyone recommend anything else?
> 
> Thanks!


There's a few cases that thermaltake offers for that much raddage. It may suits your needs.

However - i vote for Primo.

The 900D isnt a great case for its price point. It has good design for WC'ing.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Looking sharp man, looking sharp.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Where'd you get that res?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Looks good. That's a lot of water!!!


Thks guys. It is a lot of water. I like big reservoirs. They made so easy to fill the loop. Just fill the reservoir up (1.5 l) and before it runs out of water in the bottom the return line is already flushing water back









That one was home made by me. I planned it, designed and had the plates laser cut at a local shop. Then tapped and glued together. Same for the case. I jigsaw it to place the reservoir there and had to re-paint the front panel in gunmetal to match the rest of the case. The best part is that despite the return line been so high on it with the reservoir full it calm down and system is completely silent. That was a relieve since the return line is a bit too high to align with the top radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Like it,the white light is a bit stark tho.....Thought about a dimmable RGB kit?
> 
> They do great things for a rig.


Thks B. I do have a fabwerk and some rgb stripes here. I kind like the white bright leds however. The one thing I still want to do is to use extrusion like the pic below to diffuse the ligths (need to import again some....). Need to come up with two ideas however to improve the build: A mask for the power switch on the back top of the case (see pic below) and perhaps a L shaped aluminum piece to hide the cables. Something like a extruded piece where I can place the cables coming from the front of the case to the psu and bottom chamber.



diffused light:


----------



## SlvrDragon50

If you're gonna spend money on a 900D, you should just get a Caselabs.

That said, I think the Enthoo Primo is a fantastic case.


----------



## MKHunt

I have a Primo and 900D in front of me right now. The Primo definitely has more rigid construction for mounting stuff. The 900D rad brackets and mobo tray are super flimsy in comparison. They flex like nobody's business when installing anything, but are a bit sturdier once you attach radiators using ALL the screws. Mobo tray is flimsy on the 900D no matter what. Tons of flex.

My biggest gripe with the 900D though is the expansion slot thumb screws. They are behind a 90 degree steel plate preventing a full size screwdriver from accessing them. With larger hands, the task is also super difficult.

Cons for both:
-Size. Not for mobility. Some builds may leave the case looking empty.
-Weight. Primo feels a tad heavier but the weights are close. Phanteks uses thicker steel, but the 900D is a tad larger so there's more thin steel.
-Radiator options. Phanteks has a ~126-130mm radiator width limit in the bottom. Corsair only provides holes for 120mm radiators up top.
-Aesthetics. Can be a pro or con for either case.
-Tinted windows. Both have some degree of tint.
-Interior paints/coatings. The Primo uses a softer powdercoat. Knives and screws can scratch it if tightened/scraped. The Corsair uses a harder coating that tends to flake under screws being tightened fully.

Phanteks Cons:
-5.25" side plate. You either have it or you don't. It runs the full case height. You can mod it out by cutting the bottom half off, but this is permanent. Removing the bottom half allows wider radiators to fit on the floor.
-Lighting. The LED strips on the side aren't wide enough to accept a drop-in 5050 SMD replacement. Limited to about 6mm width.
-Front panel connects. They are on the top and side. Not the front. May be inconvenient if the tower sits on your desk.
-Screws for the side panels. The side panels are hinged nicely, don't rattle, and have tiny rubber feet at the bottom but they are easily lost and if you loathe rear thumbscrews then the primo isn't for you.
-Upper radiator thickness. No 80mm or 60mm thick rads in push-pull.
-Front 5.25 bay door. It cannot be reversed to open towards the right hand side.

900D Cons:
-Price. The case is on average $100 USD more than the Primo and the build quality does not reflect that at all.
-Build quality. Everything alone feels flimsy. The drive bays flex, the mobo tray flexes, cable management is the same thin plastic clips found in the C70 and other Corsair cases at much lower price points. Radiator mounts flex, the top cover is easily bent and takes a herculean effort to remove. The front panel I/O door loves to flip open for almost no reason.
-No lighting control built in. May not a be a con for some, but if you want to show off your hardware through the window, this is a con.
-5.25 drive cover design. In my opinion this is just stupid. TO install anything in the 5.25 bays, you have to remove the entire width of aluminum fascia leaving a depth, design, material, and aesthetic difference wherever a 5.25 device is installed. 5.25 devices do not sit flush with the blank 5.25 cover panels.
-No pump mount, no tube reservoir mount, no midplate. With the huge window you can see straight down to the power supply and radiator area. Good luck hiding everything down there without a custom midplate.
- HDD trays. THe Phanteks trays aren't as beefy as say a CM HAF series tray, but the corsair trays are laughable. The plastic is slightly thicker than PETG vacuum packing.
-Cable management. The clips Corsair uses protrude to the other side of the mobo tray, limiting tube reservoir DIY mounting locations. The clips are also flimsy.
-Radiator support. Radiator mounting brackets are also very flimsy. Maybe .75-1mm thick steel and secured by sliding onto equally thin steel clips with ONE screw anchor at ONE end of each mount.
-Grommets. While the in-place grommets are awesome, there are several large pass-throughs in the motherboard tray that have no grommets, including a 6" vertical hole by the 5.25 bay area.
-140mm radiator support. Very limited. Not available on the top.
- Expansion slot screws. Good luck tightening them. They are blocked from direct access by the rear of the case bending back around over them. Invest in a right angle screwdriver.

900D Pros:
-Space. Lots of it.
-Radiator thickness support. You can fit a full 2x 480 and 1x 240 in full thickness with push or pull in the bottom and top. Top can do 60mm thick push/pull
- Front panel I/O is on the front. It is behind a weird cover, but it is on the front.
-Included EPS extension.
-Lots of fan screws. Sort of silly since the 900D isn't a great air cooling case, but COrsair includes 48 fan screws.
-Side panel locking mechanism. Buttons at the rear to release the side panels. No screws, no fuss. The latching mechanism isn't super sturdy, but it is easy to use.
-Pedestal area blanking plates. No fans or rads in the bottom? No worries. You can cover the fan grilles.
-Hot swap 3.5 cage. This is a pro because the cabling is already done for it, it can be repositioned, and uses a single SATA power rather than one per drive.
-Corsair support. It's pretty good.

Primo Pros:
-Build quality! The case is super rigid. The steel is thick, and if you need to flex or bend any of it, get prepared for an ordeal.
-Phanteks support. Case window comes scratched, a dead PCB or anything else arrive our of place? 1-2 emails to Phanteks will see a new part shipped to your door.
-Included fan hub. Takes a PWM signal from the motherboard and converts it to DC voltage for up to 30W of load across 6 fan headers that can be split into multiple fans.
-Pump and reservoir brackets. Pump bracket is rubber decoupled, pre-drilled for DDC or D5 pumps, and can be repositioned as needed. Reservoir bracket can be used or removed, and is pre-drilled and pre-tapped for M4 screws in the most common tube reservoir mount spacings. XSPC and Aquacomputer tube reservoirs will require new holes. There is a secondary tube res mount by the expansion slots that is height adjustable.
-Rad support. 140mm rads supported top and bottom, all with long oval holes for fine tuning positioning. Rear exhaust fan also has height adjustable positioning for 120mm and 140mm flavors.
-Integrated one-touch lighting control. 30W of handling including 6 JST headers for fan lights, 2 JST headers for the top and front LED strips, and a molex header to power LED strips or cold cathodes of your choice.
-Extra 240mm fan bracket and blanking plate. Removable radiator bracket and intake/exhaust blanking plate for the non-window side of the case. A slim rad will still fit with the drive cages in place but it will be tight. Also has height positionable holes.
-Cable management. Velcro tie-downs for cables. No extra thickness to your sable runs, flexible, and the case includes _fourteen_ tiedowns and mounting locations on the back of the mobo tray. Also steel clips along the front of the case and top rear to manage fan cables.
-Hidden PSU with dedicated intake and magnetic filter. THe Phanteks filter magnets are noticeably stronger than the corsair filter magnets.
-Pricing. The SE versions have a colored interior with the LED lighting matching. Black version has blue LEDs. The SE variants run $240 on Amazon, a full $100 cheaper than the 900D.
-5.25 bay depth. Throw in a full-length optical drive, and the 5.25 sideplates are long enough to hide both it and the cables attached to it. There is also a cable passthrough at the bottom of the 5.25 cage to keep wires hidden.
-Filter removal. Push to unlock on the top and front filters. Bottom filters are push to unlock and slide out the _side_.

Having now built in both, I'm glad I got the Primo. The 900D is a nice case, but the price doesn't feel justified. You can certainly fit a little more in a 900D, but that comes from the case just being physically larger.
.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonbla20*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a watercooling case that can support 3 large radiators? I'm looking for something that can do 2 360's + 1 240, or better.
> 
> Here's what I've looked into:
> Corsair Obsidian 750d: My current case
> Corsair Obsidian 900d: Good rad support, but Corsair cases are not well thought out - rivets everywhere and poor airflow.
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo: Excellent case, but Fugly as hell, imo.
> 
> Can anyone recommend anything else?
> 
> Thanks!


I just built in the Phanteks Enthoo Primo and it has space and is a very nice solid case...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jasonbla20*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a watercooling case that can support 3 large radiators? I'm looking for something that can do 2 360's + 1 240, or better.
> 
> Here's what I've looked into:
> Corsair Obsidian 750d: My current case
> Corsair Obsidian 900d: Good rad support, but Corsair cases are not well thought out - rivets everywhere and poor airflow.
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo: Excellent case, but Fugly as hell, imo.
> 
> Can anyone recommend anything else?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely go CaseLabs maybe like an S8 with two 360s on top.
> 
> https://www.caselabs-store.com
Click to expand...

Yea I'm not thrilled with my 900d. 750d was ok but the 900d was definitely not worth $350. I'm actually seriously considering selling it and moving back to the 750d. I was using flex tubing so it was a little cramped but I think I can make it work with acrylic.

If you're willing to spend 350 for the 900d Id save up for the sm8 or sma8.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> If you're gonna spend money on a 900D, you should just get a Caselabs.
> 
> That said, I think the Enthoo Primo is a fantastic case.


I agree regarding case labs. Anything above the 750d is not recommended. The 900d is a spacious case but a watercooling case it is not. It needs a lot of modding once you get it.

I got mine for about $200 and I feel I overpaid. First thing I did was make a misplate, which they really should've done...


----------



## wermad

When 900d isn't enough, time for CL


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Yea well I'm pretty much done with corsiar. As a modded I need to do stuff to make it work. If i screw up there's no recourse. At least with case labs its modular.


----------



## wermad

Why not diy if the stuff out there isn't working for you? I had planned something using aluminum extrusion and acrylic panels.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why not diy if the stuff out there isn't working for you? I had planned something using aluminum extrusion and acrylic panels.


Yea i dont know what happened, but I meant to write corsair -ie im done with corsair. Ive never owned a case labs lol


----------



## Ceadderman

My next mod is something mobile.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My next mod is something mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You're watercooling your phone!

Lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea i dont know what happened, but I meant to write corsair -ie im done with corsair. Ive never owned a case labs lol


The S8 and Sm8A are the most talked about cases from what I observe. If you want a beast case and can accept huge cases, th10a and sth10 are great for more wc.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My next mod is something mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're watercooling your phone!
> 
> Lol
Click to expand...

Shoot I wish. These danged chips can get seriously flamethrower hot.









Nope the next one is a LANmachine as well as being mobile to keep out of the hands of Toddlers...







:

...Or may entice the toddler.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The S8 and Sm8A are the most talked about cases from what I observe. If you want a beast case and can accept huge cases, th10a and sth10 are great for more wc.


Werm. I am ready to Play Fifa 2014.

Pinnacle. Get a caselabs.

TCO


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My next mod is something mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're watercooling your phone!
> 
> Lol
Click to expand...

Overclocking an android is certainly doable. But i wouldnt hold my breath doing so with an iphone








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The S8 and Sm8A are the most talked about cases from what I observe. If you want a beast case and can accept huge cases, th10a and sth10 are great for more wc.
> 
> 
> 
> Werm. I am ready to Play Fifa 2014.
> 
> Pinnacle. Get a caselabs.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

If i didnt have a 900D believe me id be all over that. I might get their test bench though... Still I really really like how Jayztwocents SMA8 looks... Too bad gunmetal isnt an option anymore


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My next mod is something mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're watercooling your phone!
> 
> Lol
Click to expand...

Whut?









A watercooling mobile phone case in the making?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Werm. I am ready to Play Fifa 2014.
> 
> Pinnacle. Get a caselabs.
> 
> TCO


Soccer...









Coming from a culture who is raving mad for this sport, I is a black sheep indeed. Actually, only my older sister and I can carry a good conversation about pro fooseball. Too bad the local team is leaving (good riddance of the ownership). I do welcome the San Diego Raiders though







.

Gonna fire up alien isolation (got it free with r9 gpu) soon. But, two fans are making noise...







, making me itch to fix them.


----------



## Jasonbla20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I have a Primo and 900D in front of me right now. The Primo definitely has more rigid construction for mounting stuff. The 900D rad brackets and mobo tray are super flimsy in comparison. They flex like nobody's business when installing anything, but are a bit sturdier once you attach radiators using ALL the screws. Mobo tray is flimsy on the 900D no matter what. Tons of flex.
> 
> My biggest gripe with the 900D though is the expansion slot thumb screws. They are behind a 90 degree steel plate preventing a full size screwdriver from accessing them. With larger hands, the task is also super difficult.
> 
> Cons for both:
> -Size. Not for mobility. Some builds may leave the case looking empty.
> -Weight. Primo feels a tad heavier but the weights are close. Phanteks uses thicker steel, but the 900D is a tad larger so there's more thin steel.
> -Radiator options. Phanteks has a ~126-130mm radiator width limit in the bottom. Corsair only provides holes for 120mm radiators up top.
> -Aesthetics. Can be a pro or con for either case.
> -Tinted windows. Both have some degree of tint.
> -Interior paints/coatings. The Primo uses a softer powdercoat. Knives and screws can scratch it if tightened/scraped. The Corsair uses a harder coating that tends to flake under screws being tightened fully.
> 
> Phanteks Cons:
> -5.25" side plate. You either have it or you don't. It runs the full case height. You can mod it out by cutting the bottom half off, but this is permanent. Removing the bottom half allows wider radiators to fit on the floor.
> -Lighting. The LED strips on the side aren't wide enough to accept a drop-in 5050 SMD replacement. Limited to about 6mm width.
> -Front panel connects. They are on the top and side. Not the front. May be inconvenient if the tower sits on your desk.
> -Screws for the side panels. The side panels are hinged nicely, don't rattle, and have tiny rubber feet at the bottom but they are easily lost and if you loathe rear thumbscrews then the primo isn't for you.
> -Upper radiator thickness. No 80mm or 60mm thick rads in push-pull.
> -Front 5.25 bay door. It cannot be reversed to open towards the right hand side.
> 
> 900D Cons:
> -Price. The case is on average $100 USD more than the Primo and the build quality does not reflect that at all.
> -Build quality. Everything alone feels flimsy. The drive bays flex, the mobo tray flexes, cable management is the same thin plastic clips found in the C70 and other Corsair cases at much lower price points. Radiator mounts flex, the top cover is easily bent and takes a herculean effort to remove. The front panel I/O door loves to flip open for almost no reason.
> -No lighting control built in. May not a be a con for some, but if you want to show off your hardware through the window, this is a con.
> -5.25 drive cover design. In my opinion this is just stupid. TO install anything in the 5.25 bays, you have to remove the entire width of aluminum fascia leaving a depth, design, material, and aesthetic difference wherever a 5.25 device is installed. 5.25 devices do not sit flush with the blank 5.25 cover panels.
> -No pump mount, no tube reservoir mount, no midplate. With the huge window you can see straight down to the power supply and radiator area. Good luck hiding everything down there without a custom midplate.
> - HDD trays. THe Phanteks trays aren't as beefy as say a CM HAF series tray, but the corsair trays are laughable. The plastic is slightly thicker than PETG vacuum packing.
> -Cable management. The clips Corsair uses protrude to the other side of the mobo tray, limiting tube reservoir DIY mounting locations. The clips are also flimsy.
> -Radiator support. Radiator mounting brackets are also very flimsy. Maybe .75-1mm thick steel and secured by sliding onto equally thin steel clips with ONE screw anchor at ONE end of each mount.
> -Grommets. While the in-place grommets are awesome, there are several large pass-throughs in the motherboard tray that have no grommets, including a 6" vertical hole by the 5.25 bay area.
> -140mm radiator support. Very limited. Not available on the top.
> - Expansion slot screws. Good luck tightening them. They are blocked from direct access by the rear of the case bending back around over them. Invest in a right angle screwdriver.
> 
> 900D Pros:
> -Space. Lots of it.
> -Radiator thickness support. You can fit a full 2x 480 and 1x 240 in full thickness with push or pull in the bottom and top. Top can do 60mm thick push/pull
> - Front panel I/O is on the front. It is behind a weird cover, but it is on the front.
> -Included EPS extension.
> -Lots of fan screws. Sort of silly since the 900D isn't a great air cooling case, but COrsair includes 48 fan screws.
> -Side panel locking mechanism. Buttons at the rear to release the side panels. No screws, no fuss. The latching mechanism isn't super sturdy, but it is easy to use.
> -Pedestal area blanking plates. No fans or rads in the bottom? No worries. You can cover the fan grilles.
> -Hot swap 3.5 cage. This is a pro because the cabling is already done for it, it can be repositioned, and uses a single SATA power rather than one per drive.
> -Corsair support. It's pretty good.
> 
> Primo Pros:
> -Build quality! The case is super rigid. The steel is thick, and if you need to flex or bend any of it, get prepared for an ordeal.
> -Phanteks support. Case window comes scratched, a dead PCB or anything else arrive our of place? 1-2 emails to Phanteks will see a new part shipped to your door.
> -Included fan hub. Takes a PWM signal from the motherboard and converts it to DC voltage for up to 30W of load across 6 fan headers that can be split into multiple fans.
> -Pump and reservoir brackets. Pump bracket is rubber decoupled, pre-drilled for DDC or D5 pumps, and can be repositioned as needed. Reservoir bracket can be used or removed, and is pre-drilled and pre-tapped for M4 screws in the most common tube reservoir mount spacings. XSPC and Aquacomputer tube reservoirs will require new holes. There is a secondary tube res mount by the expansion slots that is height adjustable.
> -Rad support. 140mm rads supported top and bottom, all with long oval holes for fine tuning positioning. Rear exhaust fan also has height adjustable positioning for 120mm and 140mm flavors.
> -Integrated one-touch lighting control. 30W of handling including 6 JST headers for fan lights, 2 JST headers for the top and front LED strips, and a molex header to power LED strips or cold cathodes of your choice.
> -Extra 240mm fan bracket and blanking plate. Removable radiator bracket and intake/exhaust blanking plate for the non-window side of the case. A slim rad will still fit with the drive cages in place but it will be tight. Also has height positionable holes.
> -Cable management. Velcro tie-downs for cables. No extra thickness to your sable runs, flexible, and the case includes _fourteen_ tiedowns and mounting locations on the back of the mobo tray. Also steel clips along the front of the case and top rear to manage fan cables.
> -Hidden PSU with dedicated intake and magnetic filter. THe Phanteks filter magnets are noticeably stronger than the corsair filter magnets.
> -Pricing. The SE versions have a colored interior with the LED lighting matching. Black version has blue LEDs. The SE variants run $240 on Amazon, a full $100 cheaper than the 900D.
> -5.25 bay depth. Throw in a full-length optical drive, and the 5.25 sideplates are long enough to hide both it and the cables attached to it. There is also a cable passthrough at the bottom of the 5.25 cage to keep wires hidden.
> -Filter removal. Push to unlock on the top and front filters. Bottom filters are push to unlock and slide out the _side_.
> 
> Having now built in both, I'm glad I got the Primo. The 900D is a nice case, but the price doesn't feel justified. You can certainly fit a little more in a 900D, but that comes from the case just being physically larger.
> .


Thanks for the info everyone, +REP. I appreciate the feedback. I think I will go Caselabs; I can't support Thermaltake's stolen designs. I wish Fractal would make a full featured watercooling case.....:/


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonbla20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I have a Primo and 900D in front of me right now. The Primo definitely has more rigid construction for mounting stuff. The 900D rad brackets and mobo tray are super flimsy in comparison. They flex like nobody's business when installing anything, but are a bit sturdier once you attach radiators using ALL the screws. Mobo tray is flimsy on the 900D no matter what. Tons of flex.
> 
> My biggest gripe with the 900D though is the expansion slot thumb screws. They are behind a 90 degree steel plate preventing a full size screwdriver from accessing them. With larger hands, the task is also super difficult.
> 
> Cons for both:
> -Size. Not for mobility. Some builds may leave the case looking empty.
> -Weight. Primo feels a tad heavier but the weights are close. Phanteks uses thicker steel, but the 900D is a tad larger so there's more thin steel.
> -Radiator options. Phanteks has a ~126-130mm radiator width limit in the bottom. Corsair only provides holes for 120mm radiators up top.
> -Aesthetics. Can be a pro or con for either case.
> -Tinted windows. Both have some degree of tint.
> -Interior paints/coatings. The Primo uses a softer powdercoat. Knives and screws can scratch it if tightened/scraped. The Corsair uses a harder coating that tends to flake under screws being tightened fully.
> 
> Phanteks Cons:
> -5.25" side plate. You either have it or you don't. It runs the full case height. You can mod it out by cutting the bottom half off, but this is permanent. Removing the bottom half allows wider radiators to fit on the floor.
> -Lighting. The LED strips on the side aren't wide enough to accept a drop-in 5050 SMD replacement. Limited to about 6mm width.
> -Front panel connects. They are on the top and side. Not the front. May be inconvenient if the tower sits on your desk.
> -Screws for the side panels. The side panels are hinged nicely, don't rattle, and have tiny rubber feet at the bottom but they are easily lost and if you loathe rear thumbscrews then the primo isn't for you.
> -Upper radiator thickness. No 80mm or 60mm thick rads in push-pull.
> -Front 5.25 bay door. It cannot be reversed to open towards the right hand side.
> 
> 900D Cons:
> -Price. The case is on average $100 USD more than the Primo and the build quality does not reflect that at all.
> -Build quality. Everything alone feels flimsy. The drive bays flex, the mobo tray flexes, cable management is the same thin plastic clips found in the C70 and other Corsair cases at much lower price points. Radiator mounts flex, the top cover is easily bent and takes a herculean effort to remove. The front panel I/O door loves to flip open for almost no reason.
> -No lighting control built in. May not a be a con for some, but if you want to show off your hardware through the window, this is a con.
> -5.25 drive cover design. In my opinion this is just stupid. TO install anything in the 5.25 bays, you have to remove the entire width of aluminum fascia leaving a depth, design, material, and aesthetic difference wherever a 5.25 device is installed. 5.25 devices do not sit flush with the blank 5.25 cover panels.
> -No pump mount, no tube reservoir mount, no midplate. With the huge window you can see straight down to the power supply and radiator area. Good luck hiding everything down there without a custom midplate.
> - HDD trays. THe Phanteks trays aren't as beefy as say a CM HAF series tray, but the corsair trays are laughable. The plastic is slightly thicker than PETG vacuum packing.
> -Cable management. The clips Corsair uses protrude to the other side of the mobo tray, limiting tube reservoir DIY mounting locations. The clips are also flimsy.
> -Radiator support. Radiator mounting brackets are also very flimsy. Maybe .75-1mm thick steel and secured by sliding onto equally thin steel clips with ONE screw anchor at ONE end of each mount.
> -Grommets. While the in-place grommets are awesome, there are several large pass-throughs in the motherboard tray that have no grommets, including a 6" vertical hole by the 5.25 bay area.
> -140mm radiator support. Very limited. Not available on the top.
> - Expansion slot screws. Good luck tightening them. They are blocked from direct access by the rear of the case bending back around over them. Invest in a right angle screwdriver.
> 
> 900D Pros:
> -Space. Lots of it.
> -Radiator thickness support. You can fit a full 2x 480 and 1x 240 in full thickness with push or pull in the bottom and top. Top can do 60mm thick push/pull
> - Front panel I/O is on the front. It is behind a weird cover, but it is on the front.
> -Included EPS extension.
> -Lots of fan screws. Sort of silly since the 900D isn't a great air cooling case, but COrsair includes 48 fan screws.
> -Side panel locking mechanism. Buttons at the rear to release the side panels. No screws, no fuss. The latching mechanism isn't super sturdy, but it is easy to use.
> -Pedestal area blanking plates. No fans or rads in the bottom? No worries. You can cover the fan grilles.
> -Hot swap 3.5 cage. This is a pro because the cabling is already done for it, it can be repositioned, and uses a single SATA power rather than one per drive.
> -Corsair support. It's pretty good.
> 
> Primo Pros:
> -Build quality! The case is super rigid. The steel is thick, and if you need to flex or bend any of it, get prepared for an ordeal.
> -Phanteks support. Case window comes scratched, a dead PCB or anything else arrive our of place? 1-2 emails to Phanteks will see a new part shipped to your door.
> -Included fan hub. Takes a PWM signal from the motherboard and converts it to DC voltage for up to 30W of load across 6 fan headers that can be split into multiple fans.
> -Pump and reservoir brackets. Pump bracket is rubber decoupled, pre-drilled for DDC or D5 pumps, and can be repositioned as needed. Reservoir bracket can be used or removed, and is pre-drilled and pre-tapped for M4 screws in the most common tube reservoir mount spacings. XSPC and Aquacomputer tube reservoirs will require new holes. There is a secondary tube res mount by the expansion slots that is height adjustable.
> -Rad support. 140mm rads supported top and bottom, all with long oval holes for fine tuning positioning. Rear exhaust fan also has height adjustable positioning for 120mm and 140mm flavors.
> -Integrated one-touch lighting control. 30W of handling including 6 JST headers for fan lights, 2 JST headers for the top and front LED strips, and a molex header to power LED strips or cold cathodes of your choice.
> -Extra 240mm fan bracket and blanking plate. Removable radiator bracket and intake/exhaust blanking plate for the non-window side of the case. A slim rad will still fit with the drive cages in place but it will be tight. Also has height positionable holes.
> -Cable management. Velcro tie-downs for cables. No extra thickness to your sable runs, flexible, and the case includes _fourteen_ tiedowns and mounting locations on the back of the mobo tray. Also steel clips along the front of the case and top rear to manage fan cables.
> -Hidden PSU with dedicated intake and magnetic filter. THe Phanteks filter magnets are noticeably stronger than the corsair filter magnets.
> -Pricing. The SE versions have a colored interior with the LED lighting matching. Black version has blue LEDs. The SE variants run $240 on Amazon, a full $100 cheaper than the 900D.
> -5.25 bay depth. Throw in a full-length optical drive, and the 5.25 sideplates are long enough to hide both it and the cables attached to it. There is also a cable passthrough at the bottom of the 5.25 cage to keep wires hidden.
> -Filter removal. Push to unlock on the top and front filters. Bottom filters are push to unlock and slide out the _side_.
> 
> Having now built in both, I'm glad I got the Primo. The 900D is a nice case, but the price doesn't feel justified. You can certainly fit a little more in a 900D, but that comes from the case just being physically larger.
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info everyone, +REP. I appreciate the feedback. I think I will go Caselabs; I can't support Thermaltake's stolen designs. I wish Fractal would make a full featured watercooling case.....:/
Click to expand...

Yea if you're going to watercool, go with a watercooling case.


----------



## sinnedone

Still working on my build, this was one of the easier parts of wiring things up.


----------



## ozzy1925

System done !sorryf for the pic quality


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> System done !sorryf for the pic quality


Very nice


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Still working on my build, this was one of the easier parts of wiring things up.


is that a mcp35x pump? do you have a pic on the wiring on the PCB? I need to rewire my secondhand one, it was rewired and I don't trust it.

Thanks


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> is that a mcp35x pump? do you have a pic on the wiring on the PCB? I need to rewire my secondhand one, it was rewired and I don't trust it.
> 
> Thanks


Edit: I lied, that is a DDC.


----------



## Drifbau5

Is this twist on the tubing safe? I like how it looks but I am afraid over time it could unscrew my barbs. It feels pretty solid but you never know.


----------



## Radnad

your fine with that. zmt is some badass stuff, it can do bends that indy drivers only dream of.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> is that a mcp35x pump? do you have a pic on the wiring on the PCB? I need to rewire my secondhand one, it was rewired and I don't trust it.
> 
> Thanks


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*


Thanks


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Thanks


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Very nice


thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

When I bought the storage for IDORU,I thought I would get a little present for me.......


----------



## JayJayvld

EVGA SR2
2x X5680 @ 4,4 GHZ
2x GTX 780 @ 1200mhz
4x8 GB Corsair LP @ 1700mhz
Corsair RM 1000 sleeved white kit

TFC X changer 360 60mm
TFC X changer 240 60mm
2x D5 pomp
2xHeatkiller 3.0
2x EK gtx780 plexi blocken met backplate
1x EK bridge Plexi
MIPS mobo block
452x2 koolance v1.3 reservoir

12x GT typhoon 1850

1TB Samsung evo 840
3TB 7200 rpm WD Black

EVGA SLI triple bridge
1 meter 5050smd 60 led RGB +remote


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayJayvld*
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA SR2
> 2x X5680 @ 4,4 GHZ
> 2x GTX 780 @ 1200mhz
> 4x8 GB Corsair LP @ 1700mhz
> Corsair RM 1000 sleeved white kit
> 
> TFC X changer 360 60mm
> TFC X changer 240 60mm
> 2x D5 pomp
> 2xHeatkiller 3.0
> 2x EK gtx780 plexi blocken met backplate
> 1x EK bridge Plexi
> MIPS mobo block
> 452x2 koolance v1.3 reservoir
> 
> 12x GT typhoon 1850
> 
> 1TB Samsung evo 840
> 3TB 7200 rpm WD Black
> 
> EVGA SLI triple bridge
> 1 meter 5050smd 60 led RGB +remote
> *1 Nanoxia Deep Silence 6 case in white*


ftfy

its an awesome case.


----------



## JayJayvld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ftfy
> 
> its an awesome case.


Haha lol forgot the case , its to small need more rad space haha


----------



## Dortheleus

Hi Gang,

So all the parts are in and I'll be continuing my build today. And seeing this is a work build I'll be working on it all day and posting every step of the way.

So if you want to give suggestion and comments you can come here : [Build Log] Rendering in a CoolerMaster HAF 932 with Dual Xeons and 3 FirePros V7800

Can't wait to see how this is all going to fit together.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When I bought the storage for IDORU,I thought I would get a little present for me.......










I love some keyboard pron... I just picked a new tenkeyless myself, I'm carting it back and forth between home and work.

I got my system drained and the rads Blitzed. Fittings for rigid tubing are installed on the main components, and I'm drilling the holes for the pass throughs tonight


----------



## VSG

Did someone say keyboard p0rn?



I am a believer of Topre now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Did someone say keyboard p0rn?
> 
> 
> 
> I am a believer of Topre now.






And crap ton of storage for IDORU....



I like Greetech's too....i was seriously going to get the Das Ultimate 4 but I kinda fell in love with this once I had a go on one.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ready for Watercooling they said, It will Be fun they Said



TCO

Happy Friday Peeps!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crap ton of storage for IDORU....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like Greetech's too....i was seriously going to get the Das Ultimate 4 but I kinda fell in love with this once I had a go on one.


Funnily enough, I also have a rat 7 and an H2100. Won the headset at PAX East last year, it's been good to me since then. Had the rat for a solid 2 years now, but unfortunately, one of the thumb buttons gave out a while ago...

As for switches, I'm more of a Gaterons with MX Black springs kind of guy.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My next mod is something mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yup whenever myn gets to warm i watercool it too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My next mod is something mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup whenever myn gets to warm i watercool it too.
Click to expand...











I guess I will pick my words more carefully in the future. This is two phone jokes now.









I'm gonna take something that's *not* supposed to be mobile and make it mobile.









~Ceadder


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will pick my words more carefully in the future. This is two phone jokes now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna take something that's *not* supposed to be mobile and make it mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Now I'm picturing a TX10 with tank treads...


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummmmm fabricated mobile system.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will pick my words more carefully in the future. This is two phone jokes now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna take something that's *not* supposed to be mobile and make it mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Will it be watercooled though.









Lol


----------



## Faster_is_better

*So I heard you like box/hardware pictures?*











Build log - SILENT IRONY - lots of pics (and lots to come)


----------



## derickwm

Alaskan Arctic underway... @wermad









































































More in Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565405/project-alaskan-arctic-intel-5775c-2x-fury-x-in-win-909-liquid-cooling


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@derickwm Did those backplates come that shiny? Or did you do something to theM?

TCO


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @derickwm Did those backplates come that shiny? Or did you do something to theM?
> 
> TCO


They came that way


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will pick my words more carefully in the future. This is two phone jokes now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna take something that's *not* supposed to be mobile and make it mobile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will it be watercooled though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol
Click to expand...

Of course it will. And it will get hardlined too.









Although it's simply going to have to wait for a few months til I put the final touches on Darkside. Ain't I a stinker.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alaskan Arctic underway... @wermad
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More in Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565405/project-alaskan-arctic-intel-5775c-2x-fury-x-in-win-909-liquid-cooling


Nice Derick. Did you paint some of those vardars (the ones in the back)?


----------



## OverSightX

Not sure if i posted these yet, but here goes my update:





Looking forward to a GPU update at some point soon.


----------



## Ceadderman

He's an EK rep. Those are the white Vards.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alaskan Arctic underway... @wermad
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More in Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565405/project-alaskan-arctic-intel-5775c-2x-fury-x-in-win-909-liquid-cooling
> 
> 
> 
> Nice Derick. Did you paint some of those vardars (the ones in the back)?
Click to expand...

These are the new white Vardars 










https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-vardar-f4-120er-2200rpm-white


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He's an EK rep. Those are the white Vards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










I known he is an EK rep mate. But with the lights on some pics the back fans are looking a shade of grey and I am wondering if he painted those or all fans are the new ones in white. Perhaps is just the lights on the pics but some shots it looks more cammo grey like in the sabertooth...

edit - ok question







answered before I even had time to reply. They are all white ones then and no paint.


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Mounted the ssd on a different position to help hide the cables and highlight the evo that is dressed on the same theme as the build:


----------



## Domler

Anyone know where to find d5 dual top in the US. Performance has the bitspower, but I'm not a fan of acrylic tops. Seen to many crack. Dazmode, nope. Even checked ek website. Frozencpu site says they have ek dual. I tried calling last saturday, was gonna make a road trip. But know one awnswered. Starting to wonder why there hard to get. Are they a bad idea?
Series, not dual loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe dual top D5 has reached EOL status. I could be wrong but a lot of their CSQ stuff is EOL.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Hopefully someone can help me and I don't confuse everyone. So been racking my brain all day on how to setup my drain valve. Where I keep confusing myself on how it will work is as follows. 480 up top res and pump mid of case next to motherboard than front will be a 360 rad with ports on the bottom of the case. Now my an was to go pump down to 360 front rad. Than on outlet of rad up front have a tee that had my mini valve. Than it goes to Gpus than too rad than cpu than dumps back to too of res. my question is will it only drain from the outlet on and my much of the pump to rad as the ports will be on the bottom and the fluid would have to travel up through the rad channels. That being said only some will drain from the res to the rad from preasure but still have a lot left over. I guess a fix would be mini valve on both ports of rad but seems there should be an easier way. It's hardline tubing so no cutting and such. Thanks and hopefully your not thinking what the hell did he just say. Fairly similar setup that I will have but my pump and res will be higher up so draining from there wouldn't work.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Anyone know where to find d5 dual top in the US. Performance has the bitspower, but I'm not a fan of acrylic tops. Seen to many crack. Dazmode, nope. Even checked ek website. Frozencpu site says they have ek dual. I tried calling last saturday, was gonna make a road trip. But know one awnswered. Starting to wonder why there hard to get. Are they a bad idea?
> Series, not dual loop.


they may still have 1 in stock. might be a good idea to call and see if he answers...
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bidud5modtop2.html


----------



## Domler

EOL? End of life? Not sure what that means.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

yeah baby!
almost all the pieces of the puzzle.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> EOL? End of life? Not sure what that means.


No longer being manufactured, i.e. retired model.


----------



## Ceadderman

@emsj86...

Install T fitting at the lowest Outlet port you have and connect 90° off the short length and flow goes through the straight. You can either install a shutoff or simply cap the 90.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @emsj86...
> 
> Install T fitting at the lowest Outlet port you have and connect 90° off the short length and flow goes through the straight. You can either install a shutoff or simply cap the 90.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks yea I have the mini valve. Just wasn't sure if it would drain the fluid on the inlet side. I know it will drain alittle but thought since the rad ports would be on the bottom of the rad that it would stop some of the fluid from the inlet side to not drain.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Anyone know where to find d5 dual top in the US. Performance has the bitspower, but I'm not a fan of acrylic tops. Seen to many crack. Dazmode, nope. Even checked ek website. Frozencpu site says they have ek dual. I tried calling last saturday, was gonna make a road trip. But know one awnswered. Starting to wonder why there hard to get. Are they a bad idea?
> Series, not dual loop.


I see someone gouging for it at amazon for $189.95 if you have to have it and can't find it anywhere else. I believe that's the one you're looking for?


----------



## Domler

Is it a bad idea to run d5 in series? I saw its bad to feed a d5 from a right angle. I have two pumps and would like to set it up right. Any tips? Or just wing it and do two loops.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Is it a bad idea to run d5 in series? I saw its bad to feed a d5 from a right angle. I have two pumps and would like to set it up right. Any tips? Or just wing it and do two loops.


Series is fine. if u can avoid it do not right angle a D5 intake.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Series is fine. if u can avoid it do not *right angle a D5 intake*.


I never had issues


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Is it a bad idea to run d5 in series? I saw its bad to feed a d5 from a right angle. I have two pumps and would like to set it up right. Any tips? Or just wing it and do two loops.
> 
> 
> 
> Series is fine. if u can avoid it do not right angle a D5 intake.
Click to expand...











Come at me, bro!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Come at me, bro!




We living crazy, yo!

edit: Derick, did your ek sticker came w/ the brush effect? I've always seen it in a matte-aluminum finish (







).


----------



## Kimir

Well those are not straight 90° tho.
Erm, all my EK stickers are brushed like this.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Did someone say keyboard p0rn?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> And crap ton of storage for IDORU....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like Greetech's too....i was seriously going to get the Das Ultimate 4 but I kinda fell in love with this once I had a go on one.
> 
> 
> 
> Both beautiful builds! Very nice. Does each pc serve a different purpose (Gaming/workstation)?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Series is fine. if u can avoid it do not *right angle a D5 intake*.
> 
> I never had issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How did you get your D5 top looking like that? Is it white nail polish? It looks sharp
> 
> To whoever said that you're not supposed to right angle your D5 intake, I can say that ive fed my pump from the most awkward angles, and it still ran fine. It was awkward to bleed sometimes, but once I did, it ran just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> This was my 1st build in late 2014. No issues at all.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @emsj86...
> 
> Install T fitting at the lowest Outlet port you have and connect 90° off the short length and flow goes through the straight. You can either install a shutoff or simply cap the 90.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks yea I have the mini valve. Just wasn't sure if it would drain the fluid on the inlet side. I know it will drain alittle but thought since the rad ports would be on the bottom of the rad that it would stop some of the fluid from the inlet side to not drain.
Click to expand...

You will have to tilt your case to drain most of the excess. But that's the lowest point in your loop from what I can tell. And that's where drains need to go. The lowest point in the loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Well those are not straight 90° tho.
> Erm, all my EK stickers are brushed like this.


Excuses







....

Erm...haven't used ek in a while. Hence the question on the logo....







. I don't recall my old Titan blocks were brushed. But that was a while ago.


----------



## Kimir

Yeah excuses, I have 45° here, works just fine.








Ek supremacy (non evo) and 780 classy block have the brushed logo.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Is it a bad idea to run d5 in series? I saw its bad to feed a d5 from a right angle. I have two pumps and would like to set it up right. Any tips? Or just wing it and do two loops.


Dual D5 tops are in series. The only way I know to run parallel loops is with separate tops.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @emsj86...
> 
> Install T fitting at the lowest Outlet port you have and connect 90° off the short length and flow goes through the straight. You can either install a shutoff or simply cap the 90.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks yea I have the mini valve. Just wasn't sure if it would drain the fluid on the inlet side. I know it will drain alittle but thought since the rad ports would be on the bottom of the rad that it would stop some of the fluid from the inlet side to not drain.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You will have to tilt your case to drain most of the excess. But that's the lowest point in your loop from what I can tell. And that's where drains need to go. The lowest point in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Yea i do the same thing, and open up highest port possible while draining. If you do it this way, make sure your pump is off or youre gonna have a bad time


----------



## emsj86

You guys don't run your pump empty to drain? ...... Jk thanks guys


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/sspoiler]
> 
> Come at me, bro!


90degree input means

*NOT*

A dual rotary is not what I was talking about. You did avoid a regular 90 input there and used a dual 45 rotary, Bro!










A regular 90 on the input wont implode or anything. I just read several times the input of a stand alone pump is better without a 90 if it can be avoided.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I never had issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wermad yours looks like a dual rotary on the input too.


----------



## derickwm

So particular


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/sspoiler]
> 
> Come at me, bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90degree input means
> 
> *NOT*
> 
> A dual rotary is not what I was talking about. You did avoid a regular 90 input there and used a dual 45 rotary, Bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A regular 90 on the input wont implode or anything. I just read several times the input of a stand alone pump is better without a 90 if it can be avoided.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I never had issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wermad yours looks like a dual rotary on the input too.
Click to expand...

Did you see mine though? Very first build (it;s not the most beautiful lol)...never had any issues though


----------



## wermad

^^^^This!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> 90degree input means
> 
> *NOT*
> 
> A dual rotary is not what I was talking about. You did avoid a regular 90 input there and used a dual 45 rotary, Bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A regular 90 on the input wont implode or anything. I just read several times the input of a stand alone pump is better without a 90 if it can be avoided.
> Wermad yours looks like a dual rotary on the input too.


You need to specify as these are still considered 90°. And using simple math doesn't this equate: 45° + 45° = 90° ????

Direct 90° would be one appropriate way to specify the angle fitting you're referring to (imho) since these have higher restriction









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> So particular


It's a bendy-bend, and it's certified for D5 use


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm using 3 90's on my intake and I don't have any issues at all.


----------



## Domler

Thanks guys. Just trying to figure out how I can run my two pumps in series. Since I cant really find the ek dual top, bitspower dual don't perform very well, and b neg said to avoid 90 on intake if you can. First pump is no prob. I could hard line a u shape for piece of mind. Or maybe use the 45 rotary fitting.


----------



## timerwin63

Wasn't the whole "don't use 90 degree fittings/adapters on inlets or outlets of pumps" thing disproved by Martin? Or did I read that article wrong. I'll see if I can find it, but if my memory is right, he did his tests on a DDC and only lost 3.5% of his overall performance with a 90 on the inlet, and less than that (2%?) with a 90 on the out.

Edit: Found it: https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/01/05/elbow-impacts-on-pump-performance/

"That data is fairly good for this discussion as well, so for those that like speaking in "Degrees", adding an elbow to your pump inlet or outlet is about equivalent to a 0.05C temperature loss. Probably not something to worry about much.

So, that's that. While I used to be a skeptic about installation of elbows on pumps, I'm not so worried about it now. At least with your typical DDC top with reduced inlet opening, the larger ID Bitspower elbows do not seem to cause much more than a little restriction which is not going to add up to more than a tenth of a degree and really not worth worrying about."


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Bought a used PSU on Amazon. Banged up a tad, but I am going to take it apart to paint.

Guess Ill try to straighten some metal out while its apart.









TCO


----------



## wermad

The Cautious One was not cautious and bought used. Now this and no 90s on pumps...the world is ending...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The Cautious One was not cautious and bought used. Now this and no 90s on pumps...the world is ending...


I had to take a chance....

TCO


----------



## wermad

The Chance-taking One....? Sounds dangerous....like mb painting dangerous


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ^^^^This!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to specify as these are still considered 90°. And using simple math doesn't this equate: 45° + 45° = 90° ????
> 
> Direct 90° would be one appropriate way to specify the angle fitting you're referring to (imho) since these have higher restriction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a bendy-bend, and it's certified for D5 use


Bendy-bendy=yes
Direct 90= still yes (it seems)

The reason I even said avoid the (direct) 90 on inlet of a D5 was not about performance.

I was recently trying to get a handle on my D5 being noisey at 4-5 and it came up that a 90 on inlet can make the pump bit louder under some scenerios.

Anyways I got no issues with being wrong. Thanks for the correction.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I was recently trying to get a handle on my D5 being noisey at 4-5 and it came up that a 90 on inlet can make the pump bit louder under some scenerios.


Interesting. I'll have to test this out later, when I get my D5 out of the bottom of a box of stuff. Moving is a pain...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Bendy-bendy=yes
> Direct 90= still yes (it seems)
> 
> The reason I even said avoid the (direct) 90 on inlet of a D5 was not about performance.
> 
> I was recently trying to get a handle on my D5 being noisey at 4-5 and it came up that a 90 on inlet can make the pump bit louder under some scenerios.
> 
> Anyways I got no issues with being wrong. Thanks for the correction.


Most of my noise is from the air still trapped and circulating through the loop. Over time, obviously, it will get less persistent as most of the remaining air makes its way out. I've never heard of an angle fitting contributing to noise. That's weird you get noise w/ a 90 at #4 & 5. I've had mine set to #5 since the day I picked it up from another chap here in the market. Impressive pump knowing what it has to plow through in my current rig. Would have loved a BP dress up kit tbh...but damn these different D5/D4 top designs


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Most of my noise is from the air still trapped and circulating through the loop. Over time, obviously, it will get less persistent as most of the remaining air makes its way out. I've never heard of an angle fitting contributing to noise. That's weird you get noise w/ a 90 at #4 & 5. I've had mine set to #5 since the day I picked it up from another chap here in the market. Impressive pump knowing what it has to plow through in my current rig. Would have loved a BP dress up kit tbh...but damn these different D5/D4 top designs


nope never said I get noise from a 90. I said it came up in discussion.

Specifically B-negative listed somethings that could be the causing my problem to include the 90degree on the inlet can unbalance the impeller. .

My d5 has 3/8 tubing forced over the stock 1/2 barb inlet.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/88200_50#post_24164090


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Latest update:


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alaskan Arctic underway... @wermad
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
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> More in Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565405/project-alaskan-arctic-intel-5775c-2x-fury-x-in-win-909-liquid-cooling


derickwm.... that's not how you build log yo!
















Looking reeeeeeal good though.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alaskan Arctic underway... @wermad
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
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> More in Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565405/project-alaskan-arctic-intel-5775c-2x-fury-x-in-win-909-liquid-cooling
> 
> 
> 
> derickwm.... that's not how you build log yo!
> 
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> Looking reeeeeeal good though.
Click to expand...

I know







I'm bad at them when rushed. I've still got a couple updates to come.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm bad at them when rushed. I've still got a couple updates to come.


lol Just joking.

I know how taking time to take pictures during the process slows you down a bit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> Not sure if i posted these yet, but here goes my update:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG ALT=""http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2495506/width/350/height/700[/IMG]
> 
> 
> ]
> Looking forward to a GPU update at some point soon.


Man that looks real good! Nice job.









Did you try going with alternating colors on the fan rings? (red/white/red/white) I think that might look good like that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Latest update:


Awesome







. And some straight 90s on em D5s







. Orange....it's so deliciously nice looking. Maybe one day









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Alaskan Arctic underway... @wermad
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: *snip*
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> More in Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565405/project-alaskan-arctic-intel-5775c-2x-fury-x-in-win-909-liquid-cooling


Man I missed your post. Was busy all day with the kiddies







.

Noyce and a nice break from orange I see. I'll head over to the thread in a bit. Putting these little ones to sleep is more challenging then oc'ing a cpu...


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And some straight 90s on em D5s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Orange....it's so deliciously nice looking. Maybe one day


What is a straight 90? LOL! That confused me. I tried to setup a 90 from the inlet to the Res, but it hits the door and it can't close, so those are two of the 4 angled fittings in the entire build.

I am using orange as part of a foundation that I hold close. I need to figure a way to tie them in a little more, but I want to keep it simple as well.


----------



## emsj86

Looking at 360 rads. Options I like in my price range black ice l series , rx360 xspc and ek xe. I heard the xe our good but is it worth the extra 15 for them it is the xspc better bc of more port options. I won't be using the extra ports on this build but it's something I wouldn't mind having in case either. Just wanna see your guys thoughts. And should I buy a res mount for casaba case or just mount it using the ek heatsink feet enough


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Looking at 360 rads. Options I like in my price range black ice l series , rx360 xspc and ek xe. I heard the xe our good but is it worth the extra 15 for them it is the xspc better bc of more port options. I won't be using the extra ports on this build but it's something I wouldn't mind having in case either. Just wanna see your guys thoughts. And should I buy a res mount for casaba case or just mount it using the ek heatsink feet enough


I would get the XE. $99 is not too bad for the best performing 360 rad pretty much across the board.

I also really like the way the PE and XE rads look.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a used PSU on Amazon. Banged up a tad, but I am going to take it apart to paint.
> 
> Guess Ill try to straighten some metal out while its apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I would advise against that. Opening it voids the warranty.

If you want you can check out some Dinoc or scotchprint wrap. You can peel it off if you need it. Take a look. I have Dinoc on my mobo tray and grey scotchprint on my gpus and the midplate.


You can also use plastidip but you'll want to rough it up with steel wool first to make sure it adheres


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I would advise against that. Opening it voids the warranty.


He's going to paint it. That's already going to void warranty. He's used to it.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I would advise against that. Opening it voids the warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> He's going to paint it. That's already going to void warranty. He's used to it.
Click to expand...

Oh right. I must've missed that


----------



## By-Tor

Added my second 290x LCS card to my loop....

Sexy!!

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/New Build/P7176467_zps5tnkdbx1.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/New Build/P7176473_zpsqtm3bqpg.jpg.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Most of my noise is from the air still trapped and circulating through the loop. Over time, obviously, it will get less persistent as most of the remaining air makes its way out. I've never heard of an angle fitting contributing to noise. That's weird you get noise w/ a 90 at #4 & 5. I've had mine set to #5 since the day I picked it up from another chap here in the market. Impressive pump knowing what it has to plow through in my current rig. Would have loved a BP dress up kit tbh...but damn these different D5/D4 top designs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nope never said I get noise from a 90. I said it came up in discussion.
> 
> Specifically B-negative listed somethings that could be the causing my problem to include the 90degree on the inlet can unbalance the impeller. .
> 
> My d5 has 3/8 tubing forced over the stock 1/2 barb inlet.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/88200_50#post_24164090
Click to expand...

Its good plumbing practice (and a requirement when dealing with heating) to have a run of straight tube before any appliance,boiler or pump.
My own personal experience is having a D5 turn into a roadrill with a 90 on the inlet of a Koolance top, took the 90 off and it was quiet again.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> What is a straight 90? LOL! That confused me. I tried to setup a 90 from the inlet to the Res, but it hits the door and it can't close, so those are two of the 4 angled fittings in the entire build.
> 
> I am using orange as part of a foundation that I hold close. I need to figure a way to tie them in a little more, but I want to keep it simple as well.


Lol, yeah, it's just a bit confusing. In the end, to distinguish between dual rotary 90 (or dual 45s) fittings vs one that just has a regular perpendicular design with no bends.

It seems the d5 can get weird with these fittings on the intake. I don't have these issues, but like derickwm, we've used dual rotary fittings on the intake. I noticed yours does have the 90 in question on both your pumps.

Ie:


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, yeah, it's just a bit confusing. In the end, to distinguish between dual rotary 90 (or dual 45s) fittings vs one that just has a regular perpendicular design with no bends.
> 
> It seems the d5 can get weird with these fittings on the intake. I don't have these issues, but like derickwm, we've used dual rotary fittings on the intake. I noticed yours does have the 90 in question on both your pumps.
> 
> Ie:


I use those exact XSPC 90's at the intake and outtake of my D5 pump, and I don't have any issues. In using the photon D5 pump/res


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And some straight 90s on em D5s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Orange....it's so deliciously nice looking. Maybe one day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is a straight 90? LOL! That confused me. I tried to setup a 90 from the inlet to the Res, but it hits the door and it can't close, so those are two of the 4 angled fittings in the entire build.
> 
> I am using orange as part of a foundation that I hold close. I need to figure a way to tie them in a little more, but I want to keep it simple as well.
Click to expand...

Can you not move the pumps back a little? Though you'd have to redo some stuff.


----------



## Janac

I have just finished this project and I would love to hear your thoughts about it.



Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/140#post_24172638


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I had to take a chance....
> 
> TCO


TCO.. PLEASE DONT EVER SLEEVE THIS PSU MAIN CABLES. i won't recommend that to my worst enemy. the unit itself is amazing and great. but the cables are a mess.. do extensions and take the easier route.. never again in my life doing to sleeve such a messed up cable layout


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its good plumbing practice (and a requirement when dealing with heating) to have a run of straight tube before any appliance,boiler or pump.
> My own personal experience is having a D5 turn into a roadrill with a 90 on the inlet of a Koolance top, took the 90 off and it was quiet again.


i found martin's exact post on another forum before and members here still called bs, basically saying martin didnt know what he was talking about. if i find it again, i'll be back.
Quote:


> My test does not include pump close proximity effects. I only tested restriction losses. I have done some pumpnelbow testing, but it likely depends on the pump. In industrial pump system design practice is to avoid elbows at the pump inlet side of the pump within 4x the pipe diameter. Reason for this is the elbow can cause enough negative pressure to induce cavitation as well as unbalancing the fimpeller flow. Outlet is generally less of a concern.
> 
> I have measure the benefits of removing elbows at the inlet side such as going from a factory DDC top to aftermarket top with inlet elbow removed etc.
> 
> Anyhow, I would generally avoid elbows in close proximity to the pump if possible, my test was purley based on pressure drop or restriction loss.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I use those exact XSPC 90's at the intake and outtake of my D5 pump, and I don't have any issues. In using the photon D5 pump/res


thats on the intake of your res not your pump.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The Chance-taking One....? Sounds dangerous....like mb painting dangerous


Oh Werm, You know what's going to happen..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I would advise against that. Opening it voids the warranty.
> 
> If you want you can check out some Dinoc or scotchprint wrap. You can peel it off if you need it. Take a look. I have Dinoc on my mobo tray and grey scotchprint on my gpus and the midplate.
> 
> You can also use plastidip but you'll want to rough it up with steel wool first to make sure it adheres


Warranties do not apply here in Alligator country to me. I do what I want and If I have to replace a 100$ PSU , Then we will replace a 100$ PSU... Better than that 500$ Motherboard I Painted









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> TCO.. PLEASE DONT EVER SLEEVE THIS PSU MAIN CABLES. i won't recommend that to my worst enemy. the unit itself is amazing and great. but the cables are a mess.. do extensions and take the easier route.. never again in my life doing to sleeve such a messed up cable layout


No Sleeving for me. A Touch of paint here, a little bending there. Then We Will talk to @abirli From Ultimatepersonalcomputer.com to Make some new cables like he did for "The Division"

TCO


----------



## JDMCPU

Hey, i want in on all the fun!
Check out my copper tube water cooling system.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474802/arctic-build


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, yeah, it's just a bit confusing. In the end, to distinguish between dual rotary 90 (or dual 45s) fittings vs one that just has a regular perpendicular design with no bends.
> 
> It seems the d5 can get weird with these fittings on the intake. I don't have these issues, but like derickwm, we've used dual rotary fittings on the intake. I noticed yours does have the 90 in question on both your pumps.
> 
> Ie:


I do have the rotary fittings, but the only thing I would worry about with the straight 90 (now that I know what it is, lol) is that is wouldn't angle up like I would prefer. I have had a few of the rotary 90's fail on my, and leak, so I am looking to remove everything that could be an extra failure point eventually.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Can you not move the pumps back a little? Though you'd have to redo some stuff.


I can move them back, but I would have to adjust the return for the GPU rad to Res, since it almost touched the back of the pumps as is. I would also need to order new mounts, since the mounts that come from EK do not accommodate the D5 Xtop without modification, and there is no way i am installing 2 separate mounting systems to mount one pump.. I find that to be annoying and silly. If EK sold the 2 parts in one kit, maybe, but paying $10 for one part, and then $15 for another is just absolutely ridiculous. The 120mm pump mount that says the D5 can mount to it should directly accept the XTop, as I have modified it to do. Having to buy another kit, because the D5 nowhere near mounts without the other bracket or modification is not what I would say is optimal when paying for the mount to start with.

These are the two "Required Parts" . (I drilled extra holes in the top 120mm fan bracket to straight mount the D5 XTop)

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-pump-holder-120mm-fan

This is the extra part that EK sells to be able to mount the D5 to the above mount, it does state that the above mount is compatible with D5's when using the d5 EK-Uni Holder V2

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v2

The only modification I had to do to be able to mount the pump is drill two holes approximately where the red dots are below. If EK would include mounting holes there, this mount would be perfect. I have sent a bunch of suggestions to EK over the last two years, and receive messages back saying that they won't be changing it, so this simple modification makes like 100x's easier than trying to get them to do this from the factory.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Anyone know if Watercool ever released a Heatkiller GPU waterblock for the GTX 980? My friend just snagged one for ~320 bucks and now I'm tempted to get one as well....

From what I've seen, Watercool was developing the block, but I can't find it.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Anyone know if Watercool ever released a Heatkiller GPU waterblock for the GTX 980? My friend just snagged one for ~320 bucks and now I'm tempted to get one as well....
> 
> From what I've seen, Watercool was developing the block, but I can't find it.


looks like it. This pdf lists it. though I dont know who sells it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> I have just finished this project and I would love to hear your thoughts about it.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1532421/sponsored-scratch-build-taurean-22l-wood-making-of-my-first-case/140#post_24172638


Really nice mate. I like it. +rep for the different path and innovation









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I use those exact XSPC 90's at the intake and outtake of my D5 pump, and I don't have any issues. In using the photon D5 pump/res


Mate you are using a reservoir/pump combo. Your 90 is on the reservoir not the pump top so the "problem" been discussed does not apply to you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its good plumbing practice (and a requirement when dealing with heating) to have a run of straight tube before any appliance,boiler or pump.
> My own personal experience is having a D5 turn into a roadrill with a 90 on the inlet of a Koolance top, took the 90 off and it was quiet again.


Exactly the same experience I had with an ek top too and from that day on I avoid 90 on the intake. If a 90 there is impossible to avoid then I use the rule of thumb of give at least 3x times the tube diameter of straight section before the 90. This seems to calm things down.


----------



## Domler

For those interested, I was looking for a ek d5 dual pump top. I could not find one anywhere. Of course FrozenCPU says they have 20 in stock. So I took a chance and emailed them last night to see if they had any in stock, (and to see if anyone would respond.)







At 9:00am today they responded.
> I was wondering if you have part # ex-pmp-226 in stock. Thank you for your
> time, Alexander Demarr

Yes we do have this part in stock, and I'm not sure if you know but the
website has been down for 4 months we are a week or so away from making
the site fully operational, but we are here answering question and
processing orders over the phone. So give us a call and we will take your
order and ship it right out to you Via UPS only.

Thank You
Team At FrozenCPU.com Inc.
David Gebo

So I called them to see if I can pick in store next Saturday, as I only live 45 minutes away. They said no problem at all. There holding the part for me and im going in, see if I can get the scoop on how things are going.









I will report back after the trip next Saturday. If anyone has any questions they would like me to ask, let me know.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys, so in designing my own case, I'm designing a pump bracket that will attach to a 120MM radiator. I need some help with mounting hole locations. Does anyone know the dimensions I have outlined?



I have the mounting dimensions for EK DDC pump heatsinks, along with mounting dimensions for EK D5 pumps, and mounting locations for plain old DDC pumps.

*Also*, it would be helpful if someone could measure the OD of the Bitspower D5 cover kit, that would help immensely.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Drifbau5

So I cleaned thermal paste off my 770 with q tip and isopropyl alcohol and some cotton got snagged by the small metal things around the die. Is it important that I clean those off completely?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> looks like it. This pdf lists it. though I dont know who sells it.


Ah cool thanks. Not sure why I can't find it :|

I love Watercool blocks, but sometimes they're so hard to get a hold of.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> So I cleaned thermal paste off my 770 with q tip and isopropyl alcohol and some cotton got snagged by the small metal things around the die. Is it important that I clean those off completely?


It may not but I would try to get some dry air like a nitrogen can or a small dry tooth brush and remove it bc it could be a problem and do you really wanna find out after it's all out back together


----------



## Gabrielzm

Kind of like the white. Was going (probably still will) for a very light grey but took some shots of it with just pastel white:












more pics on log.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> So I cleaned thermal paste off my 770 with q tip and isopropyl alcohol and some cotton got snagged by the small metal things around the die. Is it important that I clean those off completely?


a qtip will work fine , just make sure you dab the parts and dont swipe them. I am not sure but them diodes look very fragile. just take your time, it will take a little bit to clean it safely.

also I don't think it would be any harm leaving the paste if you are nervous to clean them.

I did my gtx 750, help with temps a ton. I almost got a 20c drop in temps with some GC extreme.

here is a before
http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/nes pc/IMG_20150218_150749_zpsesysp3g9.jpg.html

after

http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/nes pc/IMG_20150228_220641_zpsjwrnutqe.jpg.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Kind of like the white. Was going (probably still will) for a very light grey but took some shots of it with just pastel white:
> 
> 
> 
> more pics on log.


Epic Shot. I am trying not to droll at work Gabe.

TCO


----------



## Drifbau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It may not but I would try to get some dry air like a nitrogen can or a small dry tooth brush and remove it bc it could be a problem and do you really wanna find out after it's all out back together


That's why I am asking. My waterblock is already on and leak tested. I cleaned as best I could but I could do a better job removing if I used a brush of some sort. It's just been on my mind. If it's a risk then I would remove my block and try to get it all out.


----------



## DreamTheatrics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drifbau5*
> 
> That's why I am asking. My waterblock is already on and leak tested. I cleaned as best I could but I could do a better job removing if I used a brush of some sort. It's just been on my mind. If it's a risk then I would remove my block and try to get it all out.


I've ran cards like that before and it's never been a problem.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Got that storage all mounted up and ready to go.





Think of the pizza and pron pics I can store now......


----------



## Ceadderman

Smexy copper!









~Ceadder


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, so in designing my own case, I'm designing a pump bracket that will attach to a 120MM radiator. I need some help with mounting hole locations. Does anyone know the dimensions I have outlined?
> 
> I have the mounting dimensions for EK DDC pump heatsinks, along with mounting dimensions for EK D5 pumps, and mounting locations for plain old DDC pumps.
> 
> *Also*, it would be helpful if someone could measure the OD of the Bitspower D5 cover kit, that would help immensely.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Do you have a build log for your case build?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, so in designing my own case, I'm designing a pump bracket that will attach to a 120MM radiator. I need some help with mounting hole locations. Does anyone know the dimensions I have outlined?
> 
> I have the mounting dimensions for EK DDC pump heatsinks, along with mounting dimensions for EK D5 pumps, and mounting locations for plain old DDC pumps.
> 
> *Also*, it would be helpful if someone could measure the OD of the Bitspower D5 cover kit, that would help immensely.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a build log for your case build?
Click to expand...

Yep, here's the link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1551825/scratch-build-project-matx-i7-skylake-480mm-radiator-space-in-20l-prototype-phase

Anybody have those measurements for me?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, so in designing my own case, I'm designing a pump bracket that will attach to a 120MM radiator. I need some help with mounting hole locations. Does anyone know the dimensions I have outlined?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the mounting dimensions for EK DDC pump heatsinks, along with mounting dimensions for EK D5 pumps, and mounting locations for plain old DDC pumps.
> 
> *Also*, it would be helpful if someone could measure the OD of the Bitspower D5 cover kit, that would help immensely.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Looks like #1 is 54mm and #2 is 36.5mm

On the D5 I got 67mm for the main part and 78mm for the larger knurled part.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, so in designing my own case, I'm designing a pump bracket that will attach to a 120MM radiator. I need some help with mounting hole locations. Does anyone know the dimensions I have outlined?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the mounting dimensions for EK DDC pump heatsinks, along with mounting dimensions for EK D5 pumps, and mounting locations for plain old DDC pumps.
> 
> *Also*, it would be helpful if someone could measure the OD of the Bitspower D5 cover kit, that would help immensely.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like #1 is 54mm and #2 is 36.5mm
> 
> On the D5 I got 67mm for the main part and 78mm for the larger knurled part.
Click to expand...

Thanks a bunch! +rep!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, so in designing my own case, I'm designing a pump bracket that will attach to a 120MM radiator. I need some help with mounting hole locations. Does anyone know the dimensions I have outlined?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the mounting dimensions for EK DDC pump heatsinks, along with mounting dimensions for EK D5 pumps, and mounting locations for plain old DDC pumps.
> 
> *Also*, it would be helpful if someone could measure the OD of the Bitspower D5 cover kit, that would help immensely.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like #1 is 54mm and #2 is 36.5mm
> 
> On the D5 I got 67mm for the main part and 78mm for the larger knurled part.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks a bunch! +rep!
Click to expand...

No problem, was just working with a few white ones myself for my Core X9 Snow Edition build:







Darlene


----------



## emsj86

Gray matter build. I like the white gab. I think a grayish fluid might be too much grey. The white off sets it. Black wouldn't be bad but than it would be too dark. I do like the white though really goes well. Wouldn't mind seeing it with some transparent fluid but that might not look right as the res would be darker


----------



## 8bitjunkie

all right just bought gpu block for my 780ti kingpin, that was the last piece I need before I can start my loop









I was wondering what is your guys opinions on using a filter on the front rad. will it affect performance.

also if I use no filter what is easier to clean a push or pull setup? I am going to have a 360mm front rad with a top mounted 240mm rad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i found martin's exact post on another forum before and members here still called bs, basically saying martin didnt know what he was talking about. if i find it again, i'll be back.
> 
> thats on the intake of your res not your pump.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really nice mate. I like it. +rep for the different path and innovation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mate you are using a reservoir/pump combo. Your 90 is on the reservoir not the pump top so the "problem" been discussed does not apply to you.
> Exactly the same experience I had with an ek top too and from that day on I avoid 90 on the intake. If a 90 there is impossible to avoid then I use the rule of thumb of give at least 3x times the tube diameter of straight section before the 90. This seems to calm things down.
Click to expand...

I'm very confused, so any1 can jump in and elaborate. So it's recommended to use 3-4x the diameter tube when you have to use a perpendicular 90°???? So, pretend I'm using 10mm id tube and if I have to use a "straight" 90, it's recommended to use a 30-40mm id tube? Sort of like creating a mini reservoir for the inlet. It's just not clicking as I've used 90s on ddc and the d5 with no ill effect









Thanks and +1 for further input


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm very confused, so any1 can jump in and elaborate. So it's recommended to use 3-4x the diameter tube when you have to use a perpendicular 90°???? So, pretend I'm using 10mm id tube and if I have to use a "straight" 90, it's recommended to use a 30-40mm id tube? Sort of like creating a mini reservoir for the inlet. It's just not clicking as I've used 90s on ddc and the d5 with no ill effect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and +1 for further input


thats not what he said.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really nice mate. I like it. +rep for the different path and innovation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mate you are using a reservoir/pump combo. Your 90 is on the reservoir not the pump top so the "problem" been discussed does not apply to you.
> Exactly the same experience I had with an ek top too and from that day on I avoid 90 on the intake. *If a 90 there is impossible to avoid then I use the rule of thumb of give at least 3x times the tube diameter of straight section before the 90.* This seems to calm things down.


He said to give 3x times the tube diameter in a *straight section* of tube in leading to the 90.

no mention of diameter changing. I can see how took it that way though.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm very confused, so any1 can jump in and elaborate. So it's recommended to use 3-4x the diameter tube when you have to use a perpendicular 90°???? So, pretend I'm using 10mm id tube and if I have to use a "straight" 90, it's recommended to use a 30-40mm id tube? Sort of like creating a mini reservoir for the inlet. It's just not clicking as I've used 90s on ddc and the d5 with no ill effect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and +1 for further input


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> thats not what he said.
> He said to give 3x diameter of *straight section* of tube. no mention of diameter changing.


^^This. So if you are using 10 mm id I would have the 90 degrees and then between the pump inlet and the 90 degrees 3x that in length so let's say 30 mm of straight tube to calm things down. The thing is with the 90 degrees sharp turn (not the dual-rotary like you have) and the suction from the pump inlet it is easy to turn into a noisy situation. A length of straight tube before the pump inlet will calm things down.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> all right just bought gpu block for my 780ti kingpin, that was the last piece I need before I can start my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering what is your guys opinions on using a filter on the front rad. will it affect performance.
> 
> also if I use no filter what is easier to clean a push or pull setup? I am going to have a 360mm front rad with a top mounted 240mm rad.


Pull for sure is easier to clean as the dust will be on the front of the rad where you can just brush it off. Push the dust wi be behind the fans thus making you have to fully remove the fans. You can blow through them with nitrogen but it's still harder. I have pull on both of my radiators. And literally I remove top and front panels and just brush it off takes all of a few minutes


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Was able to come up with a bracket that accounts for most of the large name DDC's.



Couldn't forget the D5 though!



-Jeffinslaw


----------



## SlvrDragon50

That Core X9 build is sexy!


----------



## Ironsmack

@IT Diva i thought you cancelled that case?

Anyhow - love the overkill!


----------



## Domler

Off topic. Syracuse nationals are this weekend. Laregest classic car show on the eastern sea board. 8700 plus cars. We go till 2 then head over to the holiday inn. The head hotel. Not a bad view looking at my father in laws 3 vettes. 78 pacecar, 69 427, and the 75

My wife drives the pacecar, I drive the 75 402, and he drives the baby 69.


----------



## emsj86

nice me and my dad went up to Hershey pa for a car show. Not pictured is the 72 corvette t top in gold. How was it


----------



## Domler

Awsome. We live here, so seeing them all week driving around doing burnouts is fun. Tuesday is a small car show, Wednesday is a car show till dusk, small strip on the way out, burnouts. Thursday is sign in day at the hotel. Friday, saturday, and Sunday is the big show. We as a family look forward to it all year. And as I'm writing this, about 30 Harleys just pulled in.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> thats not what he said.
> He said to give 3x times the tube diameter in a *straight section* of tube in leading to the 90.
> 
> no mention of diameter changing. I can see how took it that way though.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^This. So if you are using 10 mm id I would have the 90 degrees and then between the pump inlet and the 90 degrees 3x that in length so let's say 30 mm of straight tube to calm things down. The thing is with the 90 degrees sharp turn (not the dual-rotary like you have) and the suction from the pump inlet it is easy to turn into a noisy situation. A length of straight tube before the pump inlet will calm things down.
Click to expand...

I get it and I know English can be convey in different ways and cause confusion. It happens and run into it as well can cause it.

So to paraphrase: if you must have a 90 on the inlet of the d5, use a piece of tube in length that is 3-4x the tube's id between the pump and fitting.

As for this rule of thumb... i guess it could be one of these things that I see as "use at your discretion" and down to the individual.

Does any one have evidence of failure to credit this notion. I'm curious on what the consequences are.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> @IT Diva i thought you cancelled that case?
> 
> Anyhow - love the overkill!


I did, . . . . and started looking into doing a stretched S8.

I really wanted space for 480's with the option to use 420s.

Then Caselabs set a cutoff date on getting anything except black of June 30th, and I wasn't quite ready to pull the trigger on a pair of S8s that soon to be able to get white.

In the end, I re-ordered the X9 in white.

Nutshell review is that it's got the build quality of a sub $100 mass produced case, about a half a fart better than a total POS, but with all the rad space required for a big bucks hi-end build.

It took me a while, and considerable quantities of alcohol, to finally be able to adjust my expectations low enough to match what I had to work on.

Most people who need a case this big, spend many thousands of dollars on the build overall, and wouldn't mind spending another $100 bucks or so to get the build quality of say an Enthoo Primo or similar.

It does make a fairly nice blank canvas to work on if you have the skills and tools to create something unique, but it isn't going to be anything pretty right out of the box.

Tt needs to step up the build quality in a serious way, or this thing's goin' nowhere past newbieville.

It is certainly NO Competition for CL.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I get it and I know English can be convey in different ways and cause confusion. It happens and run into it as well can cause it.
> 
> So to paraphrase: if you must have a 90 on the inlet of the d5, use a piece of tube in length that is 3-4x the tube's id between the pump and fitting.
> 
> As for this rule of thumb... i guess it could be one of these things that I see as "use at your discretion" and down to the individual.
> 
> Does any one have evidence of failure to credit this notion. I'm curious on what the consequences are.


Specially for a non native speaker like me so... sorry if my original phrasing was confusing. In any case this rule of thumb was not invented by me. In fact we did discuss the same thing a month or so ago and I mentioned my memory was failing me because I could not recall where I read it the first time. I think was Martin that suggested that. pc-illiterate will most likely recall the source.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I could not recall where I read it the first time. I think was Martin that suggested that. pc-illiterate will most likely recall the source.


it was in this thread and1 other. i posted the same thing then. im sure i saw martin post it on another forum before also. everyone asks the same questions. no one is original, lol.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Is the build quality on the Nova really that bad? All the reviews I've seen have said that it's pretty good.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I might put two D5 PWM pumps in my loop for my SMA8 build (XSPC Photon 270 D5 PWM). Does it matter where the pumps are placed; such as right next to each other, or placed halfway from each other?

For example;
Pump, Pump, Rad, CPU, etc

or

Pump. Rad, CPU, Pump GPU, Rad, etc


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Is the build quality on the Nova really that bad? All the reviews I've seen have said that it's pretty good.


Since I was the only one recently who mentioned build quality, unless I missed a post, I wasn't talking about the Nova, I was referring to the Tt Core X9.

D.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Since I was the only one recently who mentioned build quality, unless I missed a post, I wasn't talking about the Nova, I was referring to the Tt Core X9.
> 
> D.


Oops, yes I meant the Core X9.


----------



## wermad

With the x9, you're paying for wc capability not build quality. Its been a long time but most budget cases that did have good wc support at most offered 360mm rad support. A few eventually did dabble with 420 (ie. Elysium/Blackhawk-Ultra/Gulmo-GT) but you had to shell out twice or more for 480/560 rad capable cases. TT takes budget cases to 420/480 Rad support but at the expense of build quality. Now, I will not say they ripped this one from CL as I've argued Mountain Mods had cube horizontal cases before the S8. But the general layout CL improved with the S8, was adopted and expanded with the X9. This case is great for those who want to work with large radiators and are not eady to plunge into a very expensive wc build.

A lot of the builds in Core X club range from budget aircoolers to full blown builds (like Darlene's). It is a bit expensive for a budget case but again what case can support 3x 480/420 rads between $150-200 Usd.


----------



## Ceadderman

You'd have to hold a gun to my head for me to ever buy ThermalFake ever again. Their quality doesn't justify it. Forget the whole copyright thing. If my start button breaks because the quality isn't there I cannot justify water cooling in it.









I'd sooner purchase a $30 beater and mod the caca out of it.









Luv ya werm but TF should just concentrate on peripherals if they cannot design an build their own better quality cases.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You'd have to hold a gun to my head for me to ever buy ThermalFake ever again. Their quality doesn't justify it. Forget the whole copyright thing. If my start button breaks because the quality isn't there I cannot justify water cooling in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd sooner purchase a $30 beater and mod the caca out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luv ya werm but TF should just concentrate on peripherals if they cannot design an build their own better quality cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm still waiting for that Deathstar good sir. Not sure if you still wanna go quad 5770s to punish my tri 470s







.


----------



## ozzy1925

some better pictures


----------



## alpenwasser

Aaargh, so now I finally might have a reason why my D5 was occasionally making weird
noises; that 90 angle right on its inlet (couldn't figure out any other reason to be honest,
so I'm going with this one). Ah well, replanning my loop again I suppose.









Thanks for the info though!


----------



## Cosworth

Hey Guys I've upgraded my system and now have a H100i GTX am I still eligable with this cooler to stay in the club?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

hey all ..

had to put my custom WC system on hold again due to my studies.

But I have the same question as the guy above, do CLC's count ?

I have both the Accelero Hybrid on my GTX680 and the H110i GT on my 4960X


----------



## wholeeo

I want to do rigid tubing so bad but the nightmare that was my first try at it still haunts me.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> hey all ..
> 
> had to put my custom WC system on hold again due to my studies.
> 
> But I have the same question as the guy above, do CLC's count ?
> 
> I have both the Accelero Hybrid on my GTX680 and the H110i GT on my 4960X
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


you can post your pictures. no one gonna yell at you.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I might put two D5 PWM pumps in my loop for my SMA8 build (XSPC Photon 270 D5 PWM). Does it matter where the pumps are placed; such as right next to each other, or placed halfway from each other?
> 
> For example;
> Pump, Pump, Rad, CPU, etc
> 
> or
> 
> Pump. Rad, CPU, Pump GPU, Rad, etc


I think the only concern you will have is you have to cycle the first pump till water gets to the second before you turn the second one on.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I think the only concern you will have is you have to cycle the first pump till water gets to the second before you turn the second one on.


I'm using two res/pump combos, so I would fill both first before I turn it on.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> you can post your pictures. no one gonna yell at you.


Haha

I just know there are a lot of die-hard WC people on this forum, don't want to be the infidel with the CLC's ...


----------



## Jflisk

That makes sense. Speaking of dual pumps any one have any idea how much heat is added to a loop by using 24V vs 12V on the D5.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> That makes sense. Speaking of dual pumps any one have any idea how much heat is added to a loop by using 24V vs 12V on the D5.


37watts at 24v. 21 watts 12v both at max.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I did, . . . . and started looking into doing a stretched S8.
> 
> I really wanted space for 480's with the option to use 420s.
> 
> Then Caselabs set a cutoff date on getting anything except black of June 30th, and I wasn't quite ready to pull the trigger on a pair of S8s that soon to be able to get white.
> 
> In the end, I re-ordered the X9 in white.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nutshell review is that it's got the build quality of a sub $100 mass produced case, about a half a fart better than a total POS, but with all the rad space required for a big bucks hi-end build.
> 
> It took me a while, and considerable quantities of alcohol, to finally be able to adjust my expectations low enough to match what I had to work on.
> 
> Most people who need a case this big, spend many thousands of dollars on the build overall, and wouldn't mind spending another $100 bucks or so to get the build quality of say an Enthoo Primo or similar.
> 
> It does make a fairly nice blank canvas to work on if you have the skills and tools to create something unique, but it isn't going to be anything pretty right out of the box.
> 
> Tt needs to step up the build quality in a serious way, or this thing's goin' nowhere past newbieville.
> 
> It is certainly NO Competition for CL.
> 
> [/spoilers]
> 
> Darlene


Fair enough. It is a cheaper alternative for those who wants to fit multi rads w/o breaking the bank. Which TBH - most of the cases TT brought out on Computex were.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> 37watts at 24v. 21 watts 12v both at max.


Is that per pump. Thanks


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Is that per pump. Thanks


each pump is 37 watts at 24v. 24v doesnt really anything but more heat.

run them at 12v.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Is that per pump. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> each pump is 37 watts at 24v. 24v doesnt really anything but more heat.
> 
> run them at 12v.
Click to expand...

Not true of the D5 Strong,it adds significantly more power to the pump.

You can voltage control a D4/D5 but its not advised with the Vario or PWM models.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true of the D5 Strong,it adds significantly more power to the pump.
> 
> You can voltage control a D4/D5 but its not advised with the Vario or PWM models.


he asked about standard D5 or made no mention of "strong" which is a different pump.

The martinlab results showed 24v wasnt worth it over 12v.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?170217-Some-Laing-D5-Testing-13-1-24V-is-the-same


----------



## MadHatter5045

Making progress, all the soft tubing in the back and basement is done







.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> 37watts at 24v. 21 watts 12v both at max.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> he asked about standard D5 or made no mention of "strong" which is a different pump.
> 
> The martinlab results showed 24v wasnt worth it over 12v.
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?170217-Some-Laing-D5-Testing-13-1-24V-is-the-same


That link you posted shows a difference of 5 Watts at max pressure. Where did you get 37 and 21? It also shows twice the pressure at high flow rate.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> That link you posted shows a difference of 5 Watts at max pressure. Where did you get 37 and 21? It also shows twice the pressure at high flow rate.


the D5 is rated 12v-24v. im looking up those specs. it seems there are different wattages depending where i look. EK lists different wattage than performancepcs.

here is ek showing 23w at 12vhttps://shop.ekwb.com/ek-d5-vario-laing-d5-vario

Then swiftech 655 on performancepcs shows 37w at the same 12v it seems. I have read those specs a lot of times. http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-mcp655-pwm-12v-water-d5-pump-module-pwm-enabled-single-version.html#Specifications

But after reviewing it I bet the performancepcs listing is simply wrong.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Thant link you posted shows a difference of 5 Watts at max pressure. Where did you get 37 and 21? It also shows twice the pressure at high flow rate.


The regular d5 at 12v or 24v will not make any difference in terms of pressure/flow up to 1.5 GPM:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/04/03/koolance-pmp-450-d5-vario-pump/

even at 2 GPM the difference is marginal which translate to Martin conclusion that the normal d5 will not benefit from running at 24 v since there are not many loops out there where a single d5 will reach above 2 GPM.

the d5 450s (aka strong) benefits from it (in fact was designed to operate above 12 v since at 12 v perform worse that a regular d5):

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/03/05/koolance-pmp-450s-d5-strong-pump/

but be warned. The strong is very noisy.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> That makes sense. Speaking of dual pumps any one have any idea how much heat is added to a loop by using 24V vs 12V on the D5.


So to answer the original question, at max only ~5W more heat between 12v and 24v on a D5 regular pump, with minimal performance gains.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You'd have to hold a gun to my head for me to ever buy ThermalFake ever again. Their quality doesn't justify it. Forget the whole copyright thing. If my start button breaks because the quality isn't there I cannot justify water cooling in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd sooner purchase a $30 beater and mod the caca out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luv ya werm but TF should just concentrate on peripherals if they cannot design an build their own better quality cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting for that Deathstar good sir. Not sure if you still wanna go quad 5770s to punish my tri 470s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Yeah naw.

In the end I shelved the idea of a triple 932. After seeing 2 people do first a dual then a triple, I just could not bring myself to do it. One of a kind is what I'm wanting.

5770 couldn't do 4way xFire either. My two 5770 only have one tab so that wouldn't have been able to do that even if I could.









So Darkside gets an on paper change that is going full steam ahead. I may resist the Triple idea but for now it's a modified single HAF system.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Had some fun doing this:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@wermad

Painted a Tad














And took care of my Cutlass









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true of the D5 Strong,it adds significantly more power to the pump.
> 
> You can voltage control a D4/D5 but its not advised with the Vario or PWM models.
> 
> 
> 
> he asked about standard D5 or made no mention of "strong" which is a different pump.
> 
> The martinlab results showed 24v wasnt worth it over 12v.
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?170217-Some-Laing-D5-Testing-13-1-24V-is-the-same
Click to expand...

Its a D5,only another model. Which D5 he had was not stated so it is necessary to provide as much info as possible when,significantly,24v and D5's are mentioned.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Thant link you posted shows a difference of 5 Watts at max pressure. Where did you get 37 and 21? It also shows twice the pressure at high flow rate.
> 
> 
> 
> The regular d5 at 12v or 24v will not make any difference in terms of pressure/flow up to 1.5 GPM:
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/04/03/koolance-pmp-450-d5-vario-pump/
> 
> even at 2 GPM the difference is marginal which translate to Martin conclusion that the normal d5 will not benefit from running at 24 v since there are not many loops out there where a single d5 will reach above 2 GPM.
> 
> the d5 450s (aka strong) benefits from it (in fact was designed to operate above 12 v since at 12 v perform worse that a regular d5):
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/03/05/koolance-pmp-450s-d5-strong-pump/
> 
> but be warned. The strong is very noisy.
Click to expand...

Pump performance is the same as a stock D5 at 12v and noise is equivalent of a D5 Vario at full speed.
I have 2 of them right here,they are no noisier than a normal D5. To my ears anyway.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pump performance is the same as a stock D5 at 12v and noise is equivalent of a D5 Vario at full speed.
> I have 2 of them right here,they are no noisier than a normal D5. To my ears anyway.


at 12 v right? But what if you run a strong at 24 v? Isn't that louder and noisier that a regular d5?

the worse performance part at 12 v came from this graph. I might be mistaken of course but it looks like the 450s at 12 v perform worse that regular d5:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pump performance is the same as a stock D5 at 12v and noise is equivalent of a D5 Vario at full speed.
> I have 2 of them right here,they are no noisier than a normal D5. To my ears anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> at 12 v right? But what if you run a strong at 24 v? Isn't that louder and noisier that a regular d5?
Click to expand...

By a tiny margin. It only goes 1500 RPM faster but has MUCH more torque.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> I want to do rigid tubing so bad but the nightmare that was my first try at it still haunts me.


Did u try acrylic or petg tubing. And push in or compression fittings. I ask this because petg is a lot easier to work with bending wise. Also compression fittings like the primochill hard line ones out very easy. I do it but those fittings you don't have to debur or be precise with cutting


----------



## electro2u

Anyone heard from UnicornHunter? They seem to have disappearded.







Hope he's doing alright.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Anyone heard from UnicornHunter? They seem to have disappearded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope he's doing alright.


Wondering the same thing. It been a long time since he log in. Hope He is fine.

Thks for chiming in B. I always thought the 450s at 24 v would be substantially noisier.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah naw.
> 
> In the end I shelved the idea of a triple 932. After seeing 2 people do first a dual then a triple, I just could not bring myself to do it. One of a kind is what I'm wanting.
> 
> *5770 couldn't do 4way xFire either*. My two 5770 only have one tab so that wouldn't have been able to do that even if I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So Darkside gets an on paper change that is going full steam ahead. I may resist the Triple idea but for now it's a modified single HAF system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/powercolor-radeon-5770-single-slot-quad-crossfirex-review,1.html
http://www.overclock.net/t/996088/4-way-crossfire-5770s
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2120160
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/373354-33-quadfire-5770



Think this was the last time amd let quad on a entry-medium range card (the low end of the middle or mid-range). Since 280x could quad, it was not the end of mid-range quad-fire tbh.

Ah, shucks, I as hoping for a quad 932 build. So, what you have scheming now? I can sell you my X9 (







). If you havene't seen Darlene's X9, its coming along extremely noyce, really elevating the case to new panache tbh








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @wermad
> 
> Painted a Tad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And took care of my Cutlass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The Cutlass One??? I hope you meant this beast:



Olds' cutlass gnx


----------



## pc-illiterate

sorry werm but the gnx was a buick regal t-type, turbo'd 3.8 liter v6. thats a hurst/olds with a 5.7liter v8. you can tell by the w-30 badging on the fender and the h/o on the sail panel. i would guess an 81 or 82....

*edit*
nope. gotta be a 'custom'. thats an 87 nose and there werent any w-30 built in 87. its a v8 but varies on the year.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I'm sure not gonna do it with PowerColor.









An definitely *not* with ThermalFake.









I removed HDD and 5.25 bays. Inverted MB and back of the case. Gonna stuff three 360s in it too as well as new paintjob and external pieces to change the looks of the 932.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> sorry werm but the gnx was a buick regal t-type, turbo'd 3.8 liter v6. thats a hurst/olds with a 5.7liter v8. you can tell by the w-30 badging on the fender and the h/o on the sail panel. i would guess an 81 or 82....
> 
> *edit*
> nope. gotta be a 'custom'. thats an 87 nose and there werent any w-30 built in 87. its a v8 but varies on the year.


Its just a conversion w/ stuff added. GM's no-surprise badge-engineering led to lots of conversions. My friend had a Cutlass and found a wrecked gnx he was planning to swap. Got as far as the stripping the old's before he decided to join the army. Would have loved to seen in done but he sold it before he left. I do remember seeing a GNX parked near my home a long time ago when I was in grade school. Never really understood why it was all black back then until I got into cars as a teen and discovered the 80's hot rods.

Might look for a Marauder and swap a terminator engine in there or a coyote 5.0 since my neighbor knows a bunch on mustangs (on his 6th fox). Its tempting to get a Marquis or Crown Vic but the Marauder is a much more rare beast.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Had some fun doing this:


Dudeeeee love this build the color of the fluid is spot on dig! What did u do to get this color again ? Green and red in white pastel?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Dudeeeee love this build the color of the fluid is spot on dig! What did u do to get this color again ? Green and red in white pastel?


Yep. Mick recipe. 10 (or 11) drops of green to 1 of red. I run out of green dye







So the build holds almost 2 liters of water. I used something around 30 drops of green to 3 of red. I was still aiming for a bit darker...


----------



## Wirerat

kinda late response now but the specs on the back of the D5 vario is why I used 37w at 24v. I mean they list it as 12-24v 37w.

The max voltage would put it near that wattage right?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> kinda late response now but the specs on the back of the D5 vario is why I used 37w at 24v. I mean they list it as 12-24v 37w.
> 
> The max voltage would put it near that wattage right?


They usually label the peak wattage during start up. In the link you posted earlier showed 24 and 29 watts respectively for 12 and 24 volts. As the voltage increased the current decreased to maintain a similar wattage (above 12v).


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> They usually label the peak wattage during start up. In the link you posted earlier showed 24 and 29 watts respectively for 12 and 24 volts. As the voltage increased the current decreased to maintain a similar wattage (above 12v).


makes sense thanks. well I knew I had seen that spec a bunch of times then when u asked I could not think where lol.

The retailers mostly list 24w.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just want to give





















to Bill Owens @mnpctech.com for hooking a brotha up. Shipped me this...



Modder's Ruler.









And this...



Mirrored 120 "Skull" fan grill as well as an etch window decal.



If you guys are waiting on Frozen for building/modding supplies, wait no longer cuz MNPCTech will hook you up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> So I got the new loop all done and whilst waiting for the paracord and gpu backplate to show up I noticed something with this mayhems purple I'm running....
> 
> 
> Day one
> 
> 
> 
> Day three
> 
> Does the dye normally lose that much vibrancy in three days... Just thought it was a little strange


So about a week ago i posted an issue i was having with the mayhems dye fading from my loop and couldn't figure it out so today i pulled it all down and behold all the dye was leaving a film on all the blocks and pump top so i cleaned it all that and noticed something with my compression fittings that i thought nothing of at the time, i have bought black chrome monsoon compressions 1 pack was all black chrome the other was just the collars thinking nothing of it at the time now when i see them the non black chrome fittings have this almost flakey residue on them any idea what these might be made of because i'm leaning towards these as my problem...



the left is the fitting with the issue around the end of the barb? anyone have any ideas?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> each pump is 37 watts at 24v. 24v doesnt really anything but more heat.
> 
> run them at 12v.


Its important to remember that it is flow rate that is a major factor in power consumption and the d5 has an internal system that automatically maintains and regulates power even as voltage changes. The flow rate at 24v on the vario does not change significantly (in a normal loop) so neither does the wattage used. The high wattage specs are based on unrealistic zero restriction circumstances where the extra voltage can increase the flow rate.

My d5 strongs are a bit louder than my varios when their speed passes the varios but it's still very low comparatively. Far less than noise for the same flow rates than a similarly powerful pump like the pmp500 for example.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> So I got the new loop all done and whilst waiting for the paracord and gpu backplate to show up I noticed something with this mayhems purple I'm running....
> 
> 
> Day one
> 
> 
> 
> Day three
> 
> Does the dye normally lose that much vibrancy in three days... Just thought it was a little strange
> 
> 
> 
> So about a week ago i posted an issue i was having with the mayhems dye fading from my loop and couldn't figure it out so today i pulled it all down and behold all the dye was leaving a film on all the blocks and pump top so i cleaned it all that and noticed something with my compression fittings that i thought nothing of at the time, i have bought black chrome monsoon compressions 1 pack was all black chrome the other was just the collars thinking nothing of it at the time now when i see them the non black chrome fittings have this almost flakey residue on them any idea what these might be made of because i'm leaning towards these as my problem...
> 
> 
> 
> the left is the fitting with the issue around the end of the barb? anyone have any ideas?
Click to expand...

Is the black chrome worn off or is that residue?

If it's residue, then I think your tubing is the issue and not the fittings. Seems like it anyway from the tiny pic I see on my phone. Plasticizers leeching from the tubing is not an uncommon issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is the black chrome worn off or is that residue?
> 
> If it's residue, then I think your tubing is the issue and not the fittings. Seems like it anyway from the tiny pic I see on my phone. Plasticizers leeching from the tubing is not an uncommon issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Chrome isn't worn of it's residue i thought it could be plasticizer as well but it's only been 1 week in total that the loop has been together just seems rather quick for that much to happen but putting it all back to together so see how round two goes i guess.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's plasticizer then. What tubing are you using?

Heat is what leads to plasticizer leech. I forget what the minimum temp required for this process but if you're running hot it's likely the problem. I'm convinced, but am not there.









Pull a tube and see if the color of your dye has adhered to the tube.

~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's plasticizer then. What tubing are you using?
> 
> Heat is what leads to plasticizer leech. I forget what the minimum temp required for this process but if you're running hot it's likely the problem. I'm convinced, but am not there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pull a tube and see if the color of your dye has adhered to the tube.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Story of my water cooling life.


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's plasticizer then. What tubing are you using?
> 
> Heat is what leads to plasticizer leech. I forget what the minimum temp required for this process but if you're running hot it's likely the problem. I'm convinced, but am not there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pull a tube and see if the color of your dye has adhered to the tube.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dye has not adhered to the tube i checked that i'm just suss on these fittings cause the residue is only on those fittings and there was more dye residue on those fittings then anything else... tubing is primoflex advanced LRT and i know there's nothing wrong with the dye because i put a heap in a bottle and let sit for three days and nothing was wrong with it, ill be using mayhems pastel green pre mix this time round and everything has been flushed and cleaned with de-mineralised water so lets see what happens


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's plasticizer then. What tubing are you using?
> 
> Heat is what leads to plasticizer leech. I forget what the minimum temp required for this process but if you're running hot it's likely the problem. I'm convinced, but am not there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pull a tube and see if the color of your dye has adhered to the tube.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dye has not adhered to the tube i checked that i'm just suss on these fittings cause the residue is only on those fittings and there was more dye residue on those fittings then anything else... tubing is primoflex advanced LRT and i know there's nothing wrong with the dye because i put a heap in a bottle and let sit for three days and nothing was wrong with it, ill be using mayhems pastel green pre mix this time round and everything has been flushed and cleaned with de-mineralised water so lets see what happens
Click to expand...

Definitely not plasticizer because your tube look fine. The residue on the fitting also doesn't look like plasticizer either. Did you check pH level? I'm pretty sure someone did advice you to check pH level. pH level out of whack could explain the change of colour of the coolant.

Since you pull all down, it's good idea to flush your radiators properly again.


----------



## emsj86

More than likely you have an issuse with ph level. Probably need to clean the rads. A good way is mayhems blitz kit


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Added my second 290x LCS card to my loop....
> 
> Sexy!!
> 
> http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/New Build/P7176467_zps5tnkdbx1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/New Build/P7176473_zpsqtm3bqpg.jpg.html


Very nice, gives me a little preview of what my plate cutout will look like with both cards now


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> More than likely you have an issuse with ph level. Probably need to clean the rads. A good way is mayhems blitz kit


...or the ol' skool way; running tap water through the rads a couple of time, then hot water & finally distilled/DI water. I have found a couple of people flushing rads only using distilled water which is not enough to clean the rads properly.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@wermad

Old Cutlass Supreme. 3.8V6 with Dual Barrel Carb. No V8. I have the Original front. Yall Posted a Euro Front which has a slight curve to it, and not as rigid as the Original.





An update on the PSU I got used from amazon.

I went to a chat room with a lady (Excellent BTW) and @SteezyTN reccommended trying to get a 20% discount on the item. Which I did








Quote:


> Tabby: I'm so sorry to hear that! I'll be more than happy to help you with this! Do you mind to wait for a minute or two while I research this for you?
> Me: No Problem Tabby.
> What do you think?
> 
> Tabby: Thank you for waiting! So since the item was sold by Amazon Warehouse Deals, I'm not able to create a replacement. Usually I would suggest doing a return for a full refund, however, since you stated that you would like to avoid that, the other option I have available is a 20% discount on the item. That refund will go directly back to your bank account.
> 
> Me: Your suggestion is optimal for what I would like. I would appreciate the 20% Refund to my account. Your time, Tabby, has been well worth my While
> 
> Tabby: Fantastic! Give me one second and I'll get that taken care of for you!
> 
> Me: I am sure someone has married you already. I have been blessed by Amazon Customer Service
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tabby: Aww thanks! It's what I'm here for


So the PSU EVGA 650 GS Used cost me about 66$ Total with no shipping or taxes.









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Only TC0.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> More than likely you have an issuse with ph level. Probably need to clean the rads. A good way is mayhems blitz kit
> 
> 
> 
> *...or the ol' skool way; running tap water through the rads a couple of time, then hot water & finally distilled/DI water.* I have found a couple of people flushing rads only using distilled water which is not enough to clean the rads properly.
Click to expand...

And the Ol' skool way is itself, often the actual problem . . . .

At least one major rad maker has so much, of a hard to clean variety, of residual flux left in their rads as a general rule, that hot water flushing, and even hot water with vinegar followed by a bicarb rinse, was not often sufficient as a cleaning method to keep them from affecting the coolant pH level in as little as just a few days or weeks.

Mayhems developed the Blitz Pro kit so that you have the very best shot at getting rads acceptably clean so that there's the least potential issues with those coolants that by nature, are pH sensitive.

Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only TC0.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If @IT Diva doesn't take me up on that offer to ride in the Cutlass soon, we might have to consider "Tabby"



TCO


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If @IT Diva doesn't take me up on that offer to ride in the Cutlass soon, we might have to consider "Tabby"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The *Smooth* One


----------



## slamedcards

Had to do a loop on a budget, used my old parts. Total price was 350$, was very happy as my chip hit the silicon lottery. i5 4690k @ 4.8 Ghz 1.29 volts. My gpu was ok at 1.28 Ghz with voltage maxed at 1.212. Just asking, does anyone now if silver and nickle are ok to mix with distill water and a dye?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slamedcards*
> 
> Had to do a loop on a budget, used my old parts. Total price was 350$, was very happy as my chip hit the silicon lottery. i5 4690k @ 4.8 Ghz 1.29 volts. My gpu was ok at 1.28 Ghz with voltage maxed at 1.212. Just asking, does anyone now if silver and nickle are ok to mix with distill water and a dye?


Don't use a silver kill coil with nickle blocks, last I was told that is a no go


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slamedcards*
> 
> Had to do a loop on a budget, used my old parts. Total price was 350$, was very happy as my chip hit the silicon lottery. i5 4690k @ 4.8 Ghz 1.29 volts. My gpu was ok at 1.28 Ghz with voltage maxed at 1.212. Just asking, does anyone now if silver and nickle are ok to mix with distill water and a dye?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: spoiler: *snip*


Great chip







. Mine goes to 4.6 with 1.35v. Pretty average tbh but I miss my old 4670k 4.9 1.30v.

If your running ek or koolance nickel don't use silver. If you're the original owner and want to retain warranty, use what the block maker recommends. It's not a big concern with EK tbh as they changed their plating method a whole ago. But koolance hasn't and it could fail. Either way, it's your call. There are other options. Personally, after dealing with nickel failure first hand, I just run distilled with nothing else added. Some color options have bio-cides in them but I'm no longer interested in colors due to the staining.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So.....Res is finally finished and fitted....along with the shiny storage mounts.





BP enhance fittings are a bang on match for the XSPC AX rad hole with that extender removed.


----------



## Ceadderman

What's your cooling solution for this HDD B? Or are they purely for storage?









~Ceadder


----------



## slamedcards

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Great chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mine goes to 4.6 with 1.35v. Pretty average tbh but I miss my old 4670k 4.9 1.30v.
> 
> If your running ek or koolance nickel don't use silver. If you're the original owner and want to retain warranty, use what the block maker recommends. It's not a big concern with EK tbh as they changed their plating method a whole ago. But koolance hasn't and it could fail. Either way, it's your call. There are other options. Personally, after dealing with nickel failure first hand, I just run distilled with nothing else added. Some color options have bio-cides in them but I'm no longer interested in colors due to the staining.


I am running a newer Ek block for my 780 ti. Last time I flushed the loop, I noticed that the nickle finish inside my res was really faded. I wish I took a picture. Do you think its safe to continue running a kill a coil? Or should I just switch to a biocide.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What's your cooling solution for this HDD B? Or are they purely for storage?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Purely storage.

I only watercool what needs it. RAM and HDD are not in that list.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Purely storage.
> 
> I only watercool what needs it. RAM and HDD are not in that list.


Well that's no fun, now is it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slamedcards*
> 
> I am running a newer Ek block for my 780 ti. Last time I flushed the loop, I noticed that the nickle finish inside my res was really faded. I wish I took a picture. Do you think its safe to continue running a kill a coil? Or should I just switch to a biocide.


If you see copper, pull the silver. Black residue or tarnished can be whipped and cleaned.

Which ek res do you have?


----------



## DarthBaggins

To me fans cool HDD/SSD's well enough


----------



## slamedcards

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you see copper, pull the silver. Black residue or tarnished can be whipped and cleaned.
> 
> Which ek res do you have?


I am not using a ek reservoir, only part that is ek is my gpu block. Now that I am thinking about it, when I reinstalled my gpu block, the nickle plated side facing the gpu looked like little bits of copper were showing through. I'll pull the block when I get back from vacation, and get rid of the silver.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slamedcards*
> 
> I am running a newer Ek block for my 780 ti. Last time I flushed the loop, *I noticed that the nickle finish inside my res was really faded.* I wish I took a picture. Do you think its safe to continue running a kill a coil? Or should I just switch to a biocide.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *slamedcards*
> 
> I am not using a ek reservoir, only part that is ek is my gpu block. Now that I am thinking about it, when I reinstalled my gpu block, the nickle plated side facing the gpu looked like little bits of copper were showing through. I'll pull the block when I get back from vacation, and get rid of the silver.
Click to expand...

???

Your gpu block is using the new plating method (started with the first csq crop - circle variant). Check when you get a chance. If you don't have anything, I would still pull it and use something else.


----------



## slamedcards

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ???
> 
> Your gpu block is using the new plating method (started with the first csq crop - circle variant). Check when you get a chance. If you don't have anything, I would still pull it and use something else.


After doing some more research on it, I am just going to ditch the kill coil, to many horror stories. Just want to be safe. Plus I was eyeing some Mayhems Pastel coolant for a while.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What's your cooling solution for this HDD B? Or are they purely for storage?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Purely storage.
> 
> I only watercool what needs it. RAM and HDD are not in that list.
Click to expand...

I ask purely for informational purposes. I'm putting two HDDs on the back of my MB tray. Did you cut vents into your tray to allow airflow or just sodded it?









~Ceadder


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Very nice, gives me a little preview of what my plate cutout will look like with both cards now


Thanks... I love how it turned out...


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I ask purely for informational purposes. I'm putting two HDDs on the back of my MB tray. Did you cut vents into your tray to allow airflow or just sodded it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have suspended 3.5 HDDs in some tight areas with little airflow and had no issues.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

-


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I ask purely for informational purposes. I'm putting two HDDs on the back of my MB tray. Did you cut vents into your tray to allow airflow or just sodded it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have suspended 3.5 HDDs in some tight areas with little airflow and had no issues.
Click to expand...

Good to know.

I'm going to running my RAID0 off a pair of TB drives for my OS. I will be updating to SSD for my OS and for Steam and turning these into Storage only but was not sure if mounting them directly behind the MB tray was feasible, even for the short term.

At least this dispels one worry I had for my build. Thanks WR.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I ask purely for informational purposes. I'm putting two HDDs on the back of my MB tray. Did you cut vents into your tray to allow airflow or just sodded it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have suspended 3.5 HDDs in some tight areas with little airflow and had no issues.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Good to know.
> 
> I'm going to running my RAID0 off a pair of TB drives for my OS. I will be updating to SSD for my OS and for Steam and turning these into Storage only but was not sure if mounting them directly behind the MB tray was feasible, even for the short term.
> 
> At least this dispels one worry I had for my build. Thanks WR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

on that note, i cant understand why people put SSDs in Raid 0...they're already so fast. I can understand with HDDs but not SSDs


----------



## Ceadderman

Small raid striping equates faster read/write times. It's worthwile in either case imho. If I can, I will do it for my OS and put Steam on a different drive entirely.









But that's if you RAID0. If you RAID1 it's for backup reasons and is just as solid a reason.









~Ceadder


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good to know.
> 
> I'm going to running my RAID0 off a pair of TB drives for my OS. I will be updating to SSD for my OS and for Steam and turning these into Storage only but was not sure if mounting them directly behind the MB tray was feasible, even for the short term.
> 
> At least this dispels one worry I had for my build. Thanks WR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Also to confirm. Had a seagate mounted behind a solid 5.25 bay cover, sealed on 3 sides, with a hot running 35x right on top of it for three years with no issue. It can't be any hotter than some of those fanless external enclosures with 7200rpm drives that get stuck in a cabinet all the time. Plus several years of 1U NAS rackmounts etc. The Al chassis of the drive dissipates heat pretty well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Kewl.

I almost stopped reading when I got to Fleagate, but it makes sense considering I have seen plenty of systems that neither have vents or fans over the HDDs.

I'm cutting out my HDD vents because they do little in a HAF case, but let dust in unchecked. Flipped MB tray, removed HDD and 5.25 bay. Cut PSU support(the only cut involved within the structure, I hope) and am boosting the puck feet. Top stays off as well. Face will be largely replaced and the base will get extended by 1/2" in depth to match the top. Got a lot of work ahead of me. Went to local CarQuest to get a quote for paint and those suckered are nuts. $10 a can for PlastiDip.









So the info is much appreciated everybody. One less thing to worry about is a good thing.



Gonna drill out all the rivets and replace them with either Red or Black ones after painting the case and interior panels to whip them into shape.

5.25 bay is to be covered over and Res mounted to the cover. Sanwhiched between two 360s.









Apologies for the phone pic.









~Ceadder


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I ask purely for informational purposes. I'm putting two HDDs on the back of my MB tray. Did you cut vents into your tray to allow airflow or just sodded it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have suspended 3.5 HDDs in some tight areas with little airflow and had no issues.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Good to know.
> 
> I'm going to running my RAID0 off a pair of TB drives for my OS. I will be updating to SSD for my OS and for Steam and turning these into Storage only but was not sure if mounting them directly behind the MB tray was feasible, even for the short term.
> 
> At least this dispels one worry I had for my build. Thanks WR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> on that note, i cant understand why people put SSDs in Raid 0...they're already so fast. I can understand with HDDs but not SSDs
Click to expand...

Well fast SSD become faster SSDs. I also use SSDs in RAID0 for the OS mostly because I'll have larger storage & faster speed (my SSD not top of the line SSD when it come to speed). Any critical data regularly backup to HDD & DVDs.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slamedcards*
> 
> I am running a newer Ek block for my 780 ti. Last time I flushed the loop, I noticed that the nickle finish inside my res was really faded. I wish I took a picture. Do you think its safe to continue running a kill a coil? Or should I just switch to a biocide.


It's not exactly the silver that is the problem ... It is the lack of an anti corrosive. Using another biocide instead presents the same problem.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Did u try acrylic or petg tubing. And push in or compression fittings. I ask this because petg is a lot easier to work with bending wise. Also compression fittings like the primochill hard line ones out very easy. I do it but those fittings you don't have to debur or be precise with cutting


I had tried the primochill tubing and fittings. What got me to quit and return everything was having a difficult time making the bends and what not with the tubing. Then it didn't help that the silicone rod that primochill sells did not fit their tubing even after doing every trick in the book to get it to go through. Perhaps next time I drain my loop and have some cash I care to part with I'll try it again though what I'd really love to do is actual metal piping instead of acrylic.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Small raid striping equates faster read/write times. It's worthwile in either case imho. If I can, I will do it for my OS and put Steam on a different drive entirely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that's if you RAID0. If you RAID1 it's for backup reasons and is just as solid a reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I use hdd for games and have not noticed any difference. I think they did tests on loading times but didn't find any difference really. I could do a test and post results in the form of a video. Hey that's actually a good idea!!

Yea I can totally understand doing raid 0 with HDD because space is cheap. But with an SSD? That's like trying to put rocket engines on a Ferrari Enzo. Worse it doesn't even offer any redundancy at all. One drive fails as all your data is gone.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Did u try acrylic or petg tubing. And push in or compression fittings. I ask this because petg is a lot easier to work with bending wise. Also compression fittings like the primochill hard line ones out very easy. I do it but those fittings you don't have to debur or be precise with cutting
> 
> 
> 
> I had tried the primochill tubing and fittings. What got me to quit and return everything was having a difficult time making the bends and what not with the tubing. Then it didn't help that the silicone rod that primochill sells did not fit their tubing even after doing every trick in the book to get it to go through. Perhaps next time I drain my loop and have some cash I care to part with I'll try it again though what I'd really love to do is actual metal piping instead of acrylic.
Click to expand...

I use bits power honestly. I don't like prinochill because their qc seems haphazard sometimes. They sell 10 ft of soft primochill tubing sometimes at microcenter as a clearance item because it isn't true to size and people have returned it opened.

Their acrylic tube and fittings most certainly aren't true to size because they're 12.7mm. Bitspower is 12 and honestly as long as you buy long 500mm tubing and make the bends yourself you won't break the bank. I don't think primochill is particularly cheaper for rigid acrylic anyway.


----------



## kizwan

RAID0 merely for speed, not for data/backup. That's why people use it for OS, for faster load time. Same problem if you use single SSD or HDD or RAID0 HDDs for OS, if failed, all data lost. Whatever type storage you use, you don't use RAID0 for backup.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Small raid striping equates faster read/write times. It's worthwile in either case imho. If I can, I will do it for my OS and put Steam on a different drive entirely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that's if you RAID0. If you RAID1 it's for backup reasons and is just as solid a reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use hdd for games and have not noticed any difference. I think they did tests on loading times but didn't find any difference really. I could do a test and post results in the form of a video. Hey that's actually a good idea!!
> 
> Yea I can totally understand doing raid 0 with HDD because space is cheap. But with an SSD? That's like trying to put rocket engines on a Ferrari Enzo. Worse it doesn't even offer any redundancy at all. One drive fails as all your data is gone.
Click to expand...

If you did happen to put rockets on an Enzo, James May would like to have your baby.









I have 1TB drives. Everything including updates will go on them. The OS would be raided drives with AntiVirus on them (unless I find its better otherwise) two 126gig drives should be plenty capable of being backed up to the HDD storage. Steam on a 126 should be just fine too. Unless I can find good prices on 250s. That would be 750 gigs to back up for 2TB of storage. Think that works just fine and would be ridiculously fast too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Small raid striping equates faster read/write times. It's worthwile in either case imho. If I can, I will do it for my OS and put Steam on a different drive entirely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that's if you RAID0. If you RAID1 it's for backup reasons and is just as solid a reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use hdd for games and have not noticed any difference. I think they did tests on loading times but didn't find any difference really. I could do a test and post results in the form of a video. Hey that's actually a good idea!!
> 
> Yea I can totally understand doing raid 0 with HDD because space is cheap. But with an SSD? That's like trying to put rocket engines on a Ferrari Enzo. Worse it doesn't even offer any redundancy at all. One drive fails as all your data is gone.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you did happen to put rockets on an Enzo, James May would like to have your baby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 1TB drives. Everything including updates will go on them. The OS would be raided drives with AntiVirus on them (unless I find its better otherwise) two 126gig drives should be plenty capable of being backed up to the HDD storage. Steam on a 126 should be just fine too. Unless I can find good prices on 250s. That would be 750 gigs to back up for 2TB of storage. Think that works just fine and would be ridiculously fast too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Yea I found a good deal on a 500gb 850evo for around $170 on Amazon. Not sure if it was still there. Oh right I forgot you've sworn off amazon lolol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> RAID0 merely for speed, not for data/backup. That's why people use it for OS, for faster load time. Same problem if you use single SSD or HDD or RAID0 HDDs for OS, if failed, all data lost. Whatever type storage you use, you don't use RAID0 for backup.


I'm aware of this. I was implying that it's unnecessary to employ raid 0 with SSD.


----------



## jonbuckles

Look in Sig for specs


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Their acrylic tube and fittings most certainly aren't true to size because they're 12.7mm. Bitspower is 12 and honestly as long as you buy long 500mm tubing and make the bends yourself you won't break the bank. I don't think primochill is particularly cheaper for rigid acrylic anyway.


They're the true size if you are looking for 1/2" (which is 12.7mm) instead of 12mm. You won't be able to use 12mm fittings on the 1/2" Primochill tubing, and 1/2" Primochill fittings won't work on 12mm tubing. But 1/2" Primochill tubing works very well with 1/2" Primochill fittings.

And I found the Primochill silicone tubing worked great with the 1/2" Primochill tubing, but I had to wet it and add just a slight drop of dishwashing soap.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Their acrylic tube and fittings most certainly aren't true to size because they're 12.7mm. Bitspower is 12 and honestly as long as you buy long 500mm tubing and make the bends yourself you won't break the bank. I don't think primochill is particularly cheaper for rigid acrylic anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> They're the true size if you are looking for 1/2" (which is 12.7mm) instead of 12mm. You won't be able to use 12mm fittings on the 1/2" Primochill tubing, and 1/2" Primochill fittings won't work on 12mm tubing. But 1/2" Primochill tubing works very well with 1/2" Primochill fittings.
> 
> And I found the Primochill silicone tubing worked great with the 1/2" Primochill tubing, but I had to wet it and add just a slight drop of dishwashing soap.
Click to expand...

Happy for you that it worked out and I'm sure in most cases it's the right size but it's happened to a few people now.
The flex tubing was the wrong diameter and apparently this has happened to others as well. Jay from jayztwocenys said it too. That's bad QC


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Ah, haven't used their flex tubing or fittings, mine are all hard tubing.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Ah, haven't used their flex tubing or fittings, mine are all hard tubing.


Yea I tried their soft tubing and it was not good. I'd go with them for colored tubing but I'd rather go with nayhems dye and clear tubing. Just looks cleaner to me


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So.....Res is finally finished and fitted....along with the shiny storage mounts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BP enhance fittings are a bang on match for the XSPC AX rad hole with that extender removed.


Wow your painting is in a class by itself!! I thought you were going to create a painting thread like you did with the pipe bending? I just got a small 10 gal compressor and a Iwata HVLP gun in prep for your class to start.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So.....Res is finally finished and fitted....along with the shiny storage mounts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BP enhance fittings are a bang on match for the XSPC AX rad hole with that extender removed.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow your painting is in a class by itself!! I thought you were going to create a painting thread like you did with the pipe bending? I just got a small 10 gal compressor and a Iwata HVLP gun in prep for your class to start.
Click to expand...

I am,I have 3 EK Vultures to paint,the 101 will be about those being done.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am,I have 3 EK Vultures to paint,the 101 will be about those being done.


Okay sound good!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am,I have 3 EK Vultures to paint,the 101 will be about those being done.










3! So, heretEK + 3? Life is so unfair







Send one to me and I will paint it for you even take pics for the 101









On a more serious note. Let's say one want to give a rad an appearance of old copper on the external panels. I thought about using a prime in a greenish color and then paint in copper and latter break it a bit with a fine sandpaper. Any other ideas of how to do it B?


----------



## VSG

I assume those 3 are for the winners of the survey that B Neg graciously offered to paint?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3! So, heretEK + 3? Life is so unfair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Send one to me and I will paint it for you even take pics for the 101
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a more serious note. Let's say one want to give a rad an appearance of old copper on the external panels. I thought about using a prime in a greenish color and then paint in copper and latter break it a bit with a fine sandpaper. Any other ideas of how to do it B?


Mentioning green, you are probably talking the green copper patina. Not sure about that, but hammertone copper paint will give an aged copper look, just no green patina.

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-hammered-spray-paint


----------



## Kimir

3 EK Vultures, that smell giveway, am I wrong?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Mentioning green, you are probably talking the green copper patina. Not sure about that, but hammertone copper paint will give an aged copper look, just no green patina.
> 
> http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-hammered-spray-paint


Thks mate. The visual I am after is something like this:



not to heavy on the patina just am aging effect.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

You might still be able to do that with the hammertone and maybe a light wash of water based green. Cool dragon!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am,I have 3 EK Vultures to paint,the 101 will be about those being done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3! So, heretEK + 3? Life is so unfair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Send one to me and I will paint it for you even take pics for the 101
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a more serious note. Let's say one want to give a rad an appearance of old copper on the external panels. I thought about using a prime in a greenish color and then paint in copper and latter break it a bit with a fine sandpaper. Any other ideas of how to do it B?
Click to expand...

Your method will work well,you will need a really fine grit paper tho.

You could paint the rad copper then use an emulsion wash for the effect too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> 3 EK Vultures, that smell giveway, am I wrong?


Sadly not,these are the comp winner cases provided by EK.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I assume those 3 are for the winners of the survey that B Neg graciously offered to paint?


Busted.....

I will have to ask EK for another one,HeretEK is packed up ready for its new home already.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I assume those 3 are for the winners of the survey that B Neg graciously offered to paint?


Ahhhhhh The Man is indeed a Gracious bloke, You'd need to walk a long long way to find another that is willing to not only do these spray jobs for the winners e.t.c but also willing to really put himself out to help an OLD FART!!!!!... The Old Fart in question is me of course







....

Because of the state I'm in I'm unable to complete a couple of b watercooled builds, Both are already partly built but then my health got in the way & I've had these two rigs sat there wiating to be completed with some real nice gear to go into them but I just can't do it because of this cancer in my neck & shoulder now I just can't get down or twist about or use my left arm very well...

Anyway......... I ask Mr Neg if he would come down from London (where he lives) right down soth to Cornwall (where I live) some 250 t0 300 miles maybe something like that, To come down & finish my builds for me................ &...... You know What!!!........... He Said yes.... He'll come down when he has a free weekend to help me out......... NOW THAT MY FRIENDS......... Is TRUE FREINDSHIP & a Level of comitment I've not come across very often at all..... Not known Neg all that long & only met him at a couple of PC shows before & from the Specialtech forum, But he still was Gracious enough tosay he will help me out & will be ever gratefull to the Man for that I can tell you.....

I'm trying to get some pictures together so I can show what we start of with & how the final build then progresses & ends.... I'm Excited.......... Very Excited & all because of our very own Mr B........ A Real Trooper & Star!!!.......

Thanks Neg words can't express my gratitude & thanks for what your doing....







.....

Nam....... (A man in need to get his waterworks sorted out







)


----------



## DreamTheatrics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Ahhhhhh The Man is indeed a Gracious bloke, You'd need to walk a long long way to find another that is willing to not only do these spray jobs for the winners e.t.c but also willing to really put himself out to help an OLD FART!!!!!... The Old Fart in question is me of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> Because of the state I'm in I'm unable to complete a couple of b watercooled builds, Both are already partly built but then my health got in the way & I've had these two rigs sat there wiating to be completed with some real nice gear to go into them but I just can't do it because of this cancer in my neck & shoulder now I just can't get down or twist about or use my left arm very well...
> 
> Anyway......... I ask Mr Neg if he would come down from London (where he lives) right down soth to Cornwall (where I live) some 250 t0 300 miles maybe something like that, To come down & finish my builds for me................ &...... You know What!!!........... He Said yes.... He'll come down when he has a free weekend to help me out......... NOW THAT MY FRIENDS......... Is TRUE FREINDSHIP & a Level of comitment I've not come across very often at all..... Not known Neg all that long & only met him at a couple of PC shows before & from the Specialtech forum, But he still was Gracious enough tosay he will help me out & will be ever gratefull to the Man for that I can tell you.....
> 
> I'm trying to get some pictures together so I can show what we start of with & how the final build then progresses & ends.... I'm Excited.......... Very Excited & all because of our very own Mr B........ A Real Trooper & Star!!!.......
> 
> Thanks Neg words can't express my gratitude & thanks for what your doing....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> Nam....... (A man in need to get his waterworks sorted out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Now that... that just give me goosebumps. That is why I love this thread even though I don't post a lot. So much love!


----------



## fakeblood

Going back to water. Just so I can mod my 07 once more









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/IMG_20150719_155335_zpsntrm4h3g.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/IMG_20150721_113638_zpskrxoubag.jpg.html


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Thanks Neg words can't express my gratitude & thanks for what your doing....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....


Wish I could buy you guys a pint or 2 and watch the work get done. I bet it will be a lot of fun


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Going back to water. Just so I can mod my 07 once more


looking good, you have a build log going for it?

going to hopefully start modding my R4 this weekend.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> looking good, you have a build log going for it?
> 
> going to hopefully start modding my R4 this weekend.


Yeah will do a build log, will start it tonight most likely


----------



## iateab

Added GPU to loop recently. Cables are still a mess. Waiting on sleeving tools.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Ahhhhhh The Man is indeed a Gracious bloke, You'd need to walk a long long way to find another that is willing to not only do these spray jobs for the winners e.t.c but also willing to really put himself out to help an OLD FART!!!!!... The Old Fart in question is me of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the state I'm in I'm unable to complete a couple of b watercooled builds, Both are already partly built but then my health got in the way & I've had these two rigs sat there wiating to be completed with some real nice gear to go into them but I just can't do it because of this cancer in my neck & shoulder now I just can't get down or twist about or use my left arm very well...
> 
> Anyway......... I ask Mr Neg if he would come down from London (where he lives) right down soth to Cornwall (where I live) some 250 t0 300 miles maybe something like that, To come down & finish my builds for me................ &...... You know What!!!........... He Said yes.... He'll come down when he has a free weekend to help me out......... NOW THAT MY FRIENDS......... Is TRUE FREINDSHIP & a Level of comitment I've not come across very often at all..... Not known Neg all that long & only met him at a couple of PC shows before & from the Specialtech forum, But he still was Gracious enough tosay he will help me out & will be ever gratefull to the Man for that I can tell you.....
> 
> I'm trying to get some pictures together so I can show what we start of with & how the final build then progresses & ends.... I'm Excited.......... Very Excited & all because of our very own Mr B........ A Real Trooper & Star!!!.......
> 
> Thanks Neg words can't express my gratitude & thanks for what your doing....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> Nam....... (A man in need to get his waterworks sorted out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


That's great. Bneg really is a valuable member of our community.
I lost my father at a young age to cancer so my very best wishes go to you and your family Nam. If I wasn't in another country I would be very keen to assist too.
There should be more creative and helpful people like both Nam and Bneg. They both set a really great example.


----------



## Ceadderman

Bneg is pure class. Even when he gives ya lumps.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

is AnFi-tec still available???


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreamTheatrics*
> 
> Now that... that just give me goosebumps. That is why I love this thread even though I don't post a lot. So much love!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Wish I could buy you guys a pint or 2 and watch the work get done. I bet it will be a lot of fun


Aye Chaps...... He's a Stellar Dude that's for sure It's not everyone or everyday you get a mate willing to come a Long way to help me out......... It's truly stellar & I can't wait to see him again for a good catch up & then get my rigs done







......

I'm in the processs of drawing up a list of what is being changed or taken out & The Lovely New Stuff to go in. I'm guessing most my tube runs I have now in the 900D case will be pretty good for the new gear as it'll all be going in with pretty much just replacements blocks & the Motherboard but tube runs should still be pretty close as it's Acrylic tubing I'm hoping the present tubing won't be far off like...

The Motherboard that's going in is the "ASROCK X99 EXTREME11......



Then we got a Intel i7-5820K.....



Which is going to have this Aquacomputer CUPLEX KRYOS XT .925 SILVER EDITION CPU BLOCK....

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...e up from top down view of cpu block.jpg.html

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...block with camera lens in reflection.jpg.html

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...ose up of .925 silver stamp on block.jpg.html

We also got 32GB of Corsair Vengeance LPX 2800Mhz (4 x 8GB)..



Got a Nice HYPER PREDATOR M.2 (2280) PCIe G2 x4 SSD (489GB)......

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...UILD/hyper x m.2 480gb ssd box front.jpg.html

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N.../hyper x 480ssd out the box label up.jpg.html

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...se up of hyper x 480ssd chip side up.jpg.html

There's also a little selection of other SSD drives to go in......

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...ILD/selection of ssd drives going in.jpg.html

2 x EVGA GEFORCE GTX 980 SC.....



Will try & get some pics up of the AC Kryographics Acrylic Glass Edition GPU blocks & the active back plates soon as I can like







....

These build parts are to go into my old 900D case that I used to use for doing all my reviews & guides in the past, Now I'm not able to do much & had to stop my reviewing & guide lark I thought it was time the old 900D had a bit of a internal overall & change up a gear







..... Will be watercooling the CPU & the 2 x 980's with probably two loops as there is at the moment in the case & as I said earlier, I'm hoping that most the acrylic tube runs that are in there at the moment won't be far off from what is going to be going in there in it's place...... Time will tell................

All the best peeps

Nam.....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Aye Chaps...... He's a Stellar Dude that's for sure It's not everyone or everyday you get a mate willing to come a Long way to help me out......... It's truly stellar & I can't wait to see him again for a good catch up & then get my rigs done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the processs of drawing up a list of what is being changed or taken out & The Lovely New Stuff to go in. I'm guessing most my tube runs I have now in the 900D case will be pretty good for the new gear as it'll all be going in with pretty much just replacements blocks & the Motherboard but tube runs should still be pretty close as it's Acrylic tubing I'm hoping the present tubing won't be far off like...
> 
> The Motherboard that's going in is the "ASROCK X99 EXTREME11......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then we got a Intel i7-5820K.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is going to have this Aquacomputer CUPLEX KRYOS XT .925 SILVER EDITION CPU BLOCK....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...e up from top down view of cpu block.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...block with camera lens in reflection.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...ose up of .925 silver stamp on block.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> We also got 32GB of Corsair Vengeance LPX 2800Mhz (4 x 8GB)..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a Nice HYPER PREDATOR M.2 (2280) PCIe G2 x4 SSD (489GB)......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...UILD/hyper x m.2 480gb ssd box front.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N.../hyper x 480ssd out the box label up.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...se up of hyper x 480ssd chip side up.jpg.html
> 
> There's also a little selection of other SSD drives to go in......
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...ILD/selection of ssd drives going in.jpg.html
> 
> 2 x EVGA GEFORCE GTX 980 SC.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will try & get some pics up of the AC Kryographics Acrylic Glass Edition GPU blocks & the active back plates soon as I can like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> These build parts are to go into my old 900D case that I used to use for doing all my reviews & guides in the past, Now I'm not able to do much & had to stop my reviewing & guide lark I thought it was time the old 900D had a bit of a internal overall & change up a gear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... Will be watercooling the CPU & the 2 x 980's with probably two loops as there is at the moment in the case & as I said earlier, I'm hoping that most the acrylic tube runs that are in there at the moment won't be far off from what is going to be going in there in it's place...... Time will tell................
> 
> All the best peeps
> 
> Nam.....


Happy to see this going Nornam and that B will be there for you. If I was close I would show up with some packs of a good porter or just a bunch of newcastle.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That's great. Bneg really is a valuable member of our community.
> I lost my father at a young age to cancer so my very best wishes go to you and your family Nam. If I wasn't in another country I would be very keen to assist too.
> There should be more creative and helpful people like both Nam and Bneg. They both set a really great example.


Cheers for the thought Jak & sorry for your early loss of your Dad... It really is awsome that B Neg is going help me with this, A real step above & beyond the call of duty that's for sure









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Bneg is pure class. Even when he gives ya lumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ahhhhhh the B Neg Lumps hey!!..... Nothing quite like em hehe.....







....

Cheers chaps







...

Nam....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Aw shaddap,I have a reputation of grumpy to uphold...........


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Aww that's nice


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I would like to think that any one of the regs here would do the same for one of our own.

Not long now Nam,im smashing out the priming for the EK cases this weekend and hopefully getting some colour on them too,could be next weekend im down fella.
Get the tea and biscuits ready.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *I would like to think that any one of the regs here would do the same for one of our own.*
> 
> Not long now Nam,im smashing out the priming for the EK cases this weekend and hopefully getting some colour on them too,could be next weekend im down fella.
> Get the tea and biscuits ready.


For shure. If I lived in the area, I would bring some Jamesons for the celebratory post build. Guinness too for those that like both. I like the simple things in life.









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For shure. If I lived in the area, I would bring some Jamesons for the celebratory post build. Guinness too for those that like both. I like the simple things in life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sign me up. You're speaking my language.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would like to think that any one of the regs here would do the same for one of our own.
> 
> Not long now Nam,im smashing out the priming for the EK cases this weekend and hopefully getting some colour on them too,could be next weekend im down fella.
> Get the tea and biscuits ready.


FANTASTIC Neg........







...... Really looking forward to seeing you again for a good old catch up.....

Just let me know Neg when your able & I'll have the Hotel all Food & Drink you desire booked up for a night (I'm guessing either the Friday night stay or Saturday night stay?).... Or in fact both nights it's entirely up to you, I'm up for what ever is going to suit you & give us enough time hopfully







.....

Skully said he would try & make it as well when he knows when it might happen like, He was worried about having the money to come down.... I told him he won't need any money as it's all on me no worries (THE Same goes for you obviously Neg, Please don't fret about the costs & Hotel e.t.c I'm MORE Than Happy & in fact Glad to







) But you know what he's like, I hope he can make it would be good to catch up with the both of you again...

ROLL ON 2 to 3 WEEKS........ EXCITED NAM


----------



## emsj86

For those watercooling and that painted there non waterblock motherboard heatsinks (for looks obviously) did you see a temp difference. I want to see if it s a 2-5 or a more drastic 10-15. As I'm looking to paint my heat sinks with a light coat


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For those watercooling and that painted there non waterblock motherboard heatsinks (for looks obviously) did you see a temp difference. I want to see if it s a 2-5 or a more drastic 10-15. As I'm looking to paint my heat sinks with a light coat


@lowfat painted the VRM heatsinks on his Asus WS board (I'm pretty sure it was a Z9PE-D8 WS) with plastidip. I remember him saying there wasn't a huge temp impact.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Finished the GPU loop on my rig







. Everything coming along nicely


----------



## lowfat

I only plasti dipped the tops of the heatsinks not the fins. It had no impact on stability on a system that folded 24/7.


----------



## Ceadderman

I wanna see some sparks, paint the whole heatsinks lowfat.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Finished the GPU loop on my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Everything coming along nicely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like this!

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I like this!
> 
> TCO


I do too. That's how I though I could've done it with the thick radiator, but decided with the tubes going straight down. Only problem with that is that most SMA8's do that. Man, it's hard to do something with this case to where it doesn't look like anyone else's. I absolutely Love the way MadHatter did it. He deserves +rep for this too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Honestly, I'm getting tired of seeing Case labs get picked for mod of the month in CPU mag.

Not because the modern don't deserve coverage.

But because they are almost always the same. Only one truly deserved the status. Dude used both sides for a double boot system. One complete system per side and water cooled them both. It was epic imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly, I'm getting tired of seeing Case labs get picked for mod of the month in CPU mag.
> 
> Not because the modern don't deserve coverage.
> 
> But because they are almost always the same. Only one truly deserved the status. Dude used both sides for a double boot system. One complete system per side and water cooled them both. It was epic imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree. I also can't wait for my SMA8 to come. Most of these builds being featured are all the same, and will always be the same. They need to include lower budgeted pieces, and ones tgat aren't excessively watercooled. When I get my SMA8, I'm going to try and do something to where it doesn't look like most SMA8 builds or even The average CL work (Skunkworks *cough cough*)


----------



## Ceadderman

Just saw your reply to my smartphone post Steezy. Wish I would a seen that correction "modern". I would a fixed that to read "modder".

They seriously need to include a way to update terms of usage in the Autocorrection feature.









Can't wait to see what you have planned for that CaseLabs though.









~Ceadder


----------



## wholeeo

I wish I had more desk space so that I could get a case labs. Especially now that they are sold locally at Micro Center.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> I wish I had more desk space so that I could get a case labs. Especially now that they are sold locally at Micro Center.


I don't have enough desk space for when my SMA8 comes. I'm going to have to go out and get a stand for it to be place on lol.


----------



## Origondoo

So let me join the club:

The temps after 2 hours of BF4 are good for that little rad space (1 x 140 monsta + 1 x 80mm ):
CPU i7-4790k (4.4 Ghz @ 1.15V) max. 62°C
GPU GTX 970 @ 1473Mhz (no voltage increase) max. 52°C







Still need to optimize the airflow (mainly improve the exaust). While during the long heavy sessions the upper area of the case heats up to 47°C and the PSU intake up to 40°C.

Please don't judge my aluminium painting


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly, I'm getting tired of seeing Case labs get picked for mod of the month in CPU mag.
> 
> Not because the modern don't deserve coverage.
> 
> But because they are almost always the same. Only one truly deserved the status. Dude used both sides for a double boot system. One complete system per side and water cooled them both. It was epic imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I personally am not a fan of the caselabs. I can definitely appreciate the modularity and just the ease of use in those cases, but aesthetically they don't do it for me. I love to see others build in them, but they are not for me.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Am I the only one that still puts my PC on the floor? lol

I think the Caselabs is nice for its watercooling capability and modularity as ^, but it's simply too pricey.


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Am I the only one that still puts my PC on the floor? lol


No.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I like this!
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I do too. That's how I though I could've done it with the thick radiator, but decided with the tubes going straight down. Only problem with that is that most SMA8's do that. Man, it's hard to do something with this case to where it doesn't look like anyone else's. I absolutely Love the way MadHatter did it. He deserves +rep for this too.










Thank you both, I'm quite pleased with how it came out!









There's been a lot of coverage for modders with the SMA8 as well as a lot of Skunkworks inspired systems. Just means we as a community have to dig a bit deeper in our brains to keep things unique and fresh. That's what I love about our community










BTW @Ceadderman do you have a buildlog for your current work?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The thing with a CL cases is that is is what you make it. I couldnt leave one stock........and I didnt.......


----------



## electro2u

Crazy BNeg..... looks too cool for words.

I'm starting an x99 build using the new 750D airflow edition with dual 980 Tis and a Sabertooth board. So freaking excited.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

But why this case?

I no underspeak....


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you both, I'm quite pleased with how it came out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's been a lot of coverage for modders with the SMA8 as well as a lot of Skunkworks inspired systems. Just means we as a community have to dig a bit deeper in our brains to keep things unique and fresh. That's what I love about our community
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW @Ceadderman do you have a buildlog for your current work?


Yeah, skunkworks is the one that kind of inspired everyone (I know it wasn't the first like it), because it was the one that got the most attention. My main reason with going for XSPC Photon pumps is to stand clear if skunkworks. I've seen a few that look no thinking similar, and those are always nice to see. I'm going to Ty and do something diffeeeent with the tubing overall, but only if it doesn't require insane bends lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yeah, skunkworks is the one that kind of inspired everyone (I know it wasn't the first like it), because it was the one that got the most attention. My main reason with going for XSPC Photon pumps is to stand clear if skunkworks. I've seen a few that look no thinking similar, and those are always nice to see. I'm going to Ty and do something diffeeeent with the tubing overall, but only if it doesn't require insane bends lol.


I never heard of Skunkworks until I built my SMA8.

TCO


----------



## SlvrDragon50

XSPC photon is a beautiful pump! I'm honestly surprised we don't see more of it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> XSPC photon is a beautiful pump! I'm honestly surprised we don't see more of it.


Here. Have a Photon.



TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> XSPC photon is a beautiful pump! I'm honestly surprised we don't see more of it.


It's even more of a beauty with the Bitspower D5 mod kit


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> It's even more of a beauty with the Bitspower D5 mod kit
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


QFT! That's gonna look excellent in your build!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But why this case?
> 
> I no underspeak....


CL stopped selling the Merlin class I was considering. Seems to me the best "perfomance" case available in this exact size position. Have Limited space and didnt want the recent usual suspects like the Phanteks Enthoo. Can shoehorn in 2x240s and a 360


----------



## Archea47

What're we using these days for clear flex tubing in 3/8x1/2"?

I have 20' of PrimoChill Advanced LRT in clear. My compression fittings don't work well on it and last time I used it there was a bit of staining (not sure if that applies to the mayhem pastel white I have)

Most of the build is copper tubing, but around the CPU I want soft because I have a few chips I rotate through and want to be able to change them without draining

I looked up the new mayhems but PPCs doesnt have it in my size


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> What're we using these days for clear flex tubing in 3/8x1/2"?
> 
> I have 20' of PrimoChill Advanced LRT in clear. My compression fittings don't work well on it and last time I used it there was a bit of staining (not sure if that applies to the mayhem pastel white I have)
> 
> Most of the build is copper tubing, but around the CPU I want soft because I have a few chips I rotate through and want to be able to change them without draining
> 
> I looked up the new mayhems but PPCs doesnt have it in my size


You can try warm a bit the LRT in warm/hot water. That would make it more flexible and easy to work.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> What're we using these days for clear flex tubing in 3/8x1/2"?
> 
> I have 20' of PrimoChill Advanced LRT in clear. My compression fittings don't work well on it and last time I used it there was a bit of staining (not sure if that applies to the mayhem pastel white I have)
> 
> Most of the build is copper tubing, but around the CPU I want soft because I have a few chips I rotate through and want to be able to change them without draining
> 
> I looked up the new mayhems but PPCs doesnt have it in my size


I have used nothing but 3/8" x 1/2" Primochill Advanced LRT in Clear









TCO


----------



## By-Tor




----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Am I the only one that still puts my PC on the floor? lol
> 
> I think the Caselabs is nice for its watercooling capability and modularity as ^, but it's simply too pricey.


Mine stays on the floor as well other than its too large to go on top of my desk and with the casters it would probably roll off lol


----------



## RickRockerr

Hi everyone! I build a new waterloop after year and a half of air cooling and I would need some advice with my temps.








At the moment the ambient temp is around 27°C. I'm using two 240 ST30 rads with push/pull config with Corsair SP fans. Cpu overclocked to [email protected] And GPU [email protected] Cpu temp hits 62°C and GPU hits 50°C. Oh, and my CPU is 4790K and GPU 980Ti. Does that sound normal? Would there be big difference in temps if I change one rad to XT45 or even UT60?

E: I have EK waterblock that covers CPU, Chipset and VRM.


----------



## DarthBaggins

@ 4.8 that 62c sounds good to me under full load etc and 50c is good on the 980Ti, you have ample core space to cool your components in your loop as well.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> @ 4.8 that 62c sounds good to me under full load etc and 50c is good on the 980Ti, you have ample core space to cool your components in your loop as well.


Temps are measured while gaming. GPU% 95% and CPU around 60%. I'm not sure about what the peak temperature is because I use GOverlay to monitor my temps.

E:Needles to say that CPU avarage temp is lower when GPU doesn't dump heat to the loop and vice versa.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know my 4790k at full load was hitting 65-68c (@ 4.8-4.9) but I also had a single XSPC EX360 rad on the CPU loop. With JAC on the the 5930k it tops out at 61c full load and when the 970 is full bore (1525) the 970 tops out at 40c and the 5930k jumps to 64c since the GPU is dumping more heat into the loop under load. the 4790k is more than safe to hit low 70's really under a full load especially if you're getting your temps w/out delidding


----------



## emsj86

Wait wait hold your horses they have case labs at micro center now. My mind is blown


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know my 4790k at full load was hitting 65-68c (@ 4.8-4.9) but I also had a single XSPC EX360 rad on the CPU loop. With JAC on the the 5930k it tops out at 61c full load and when the 970 is full bore (1525) the 970 tops out at 40c and the 5930k jumps to 64c since the GPU is dumping more heat into the loop under load. the 4790k is more than safe to hit low 70's really under a full load especially if you're getting your temps w/out delidding


Delidded







CLU on die and MX-4 on IHS. Going to change CLU to CLP because I prefer CLP but I didn't have any when I was putting my setup together. But thanks







I feel little bit more comfortable about my temps







. Was your max temps with 4790k a peak temp?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Wait wait hold your horses they have case labs at micro center now. My mind is blown


Yup. I think CL announced it a few weeks ago.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup they are available at MicroCenter, just wish some of the accessories were too lol

Yeah the highest I saw under benches was 66c when I was really pushing for 5.0 but I backed it down since I never wanted to get into delidding it to maintain warranty since this is my 2nd 4790k since the first got toasted after 6mo's thanks to the board


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I wish they'd open a location in arizona

too bad caselabs has to cut stock and options down so much to keep up with orders


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Hi everyone! I build a new waterloop after year and a half of air cooling and I would need some advice with my temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment the ambient temp is around 27°C. I'm using two 240 ST30 rads with push/pull config with Corsair SP fans. Cpu overclocked to [email protected]V And GPU [email protected] Cpu temp hits 62°C and GPU hits 50°C. Oh, and my CPU is 4790K and GPU 980Ti. Does that sound normal? Would there be big difference in temps if I change one rad to XT45 or even UT60?
> 
> E: I have EK waterblock that covers CPU, Chipset and VRM.


Yea that sounds about right with the size of the rads. The thickness doesn't make nearly as much difference as the length.

I was looking into cl at microcenter but the whole thing with cl cases is the customization. There's none when you buy them from microcenter because I don't think you can choose different parts


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea that sounds about right with the size of the rads. The thickness doesn't make nearly as much difference as the length.
> 
> I was looking into cl at microcenter but the whole thing with cl cases is the customization. There's none when you buy them from microcenter because I don't think you can choose different parts


You can still order the accessories from CL direct but you do get a discount on them when ordering as options to the case

Edit:BTW what models are they stocking?


----------



## emsj86

Funny bc before I bought the sm8 used I said if they sold them at microcenter I would buy it there and not have to wait. I even told the microcenter guy that they should get caselabs and phanteks cases and he said he and others voted to get them but wasn't sure if they would. Nice to have a local store have water cooling parts. Specially when you need that one missing fitting. Wish they sold the accessories but in sure they can order it through caselabs. Hmm I wonder if they only will have black cases for the time. On another note just bought some black satin paint to paint my sm8 outside and got my acrylic light blue translucent for a mod I have planned. Build log will start after my vacation starting Friday.







I'll post a link here and hope to see you in there


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> You can still order the accessories from CL direct but you do get a discount on them when ordering as options to the case
> 
> Edit:BTW what models are they stocking?


http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.aspx?Ntt=CaseLabs


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> BTW @Ceadderman do you have a buildlog for your current work?


Won't be able to start the log until I have desktop access. Which won't be too long away hopefully.

Checked the cost of PlastiDip spray locally. $12 a can at Napa or $10 a can at CarQuest. And neither of them have access to tintable and tints.









I am hoping I can get what I need from a paint supply and have them mix the tint I need to rattle can form since I don't currently own a sprayer. I guess I could get a cheap gravity feed sprayer but I want a professional look and mixing tints isn't my thing. I am more of a pour and spray or rattle an spray guy. I'm sure I can do it if push came to shove. Not that I lack confidence in my work. Just don't like to mix.









Am gonna be putting a small airbrush mural under my 360s on the base coat. Anyone know how clear PlastiDip clear is? I want to protect it but I don't want to lose clarity and put them under a fog, if you catch my drift.









I might have to "dust" coat to protect and keep the clarity as reasonable as I can get it.









Soon as I can start my log, I will be putting up the link.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know the Ace Hardware near my work carries Plasti at around 8.50 a can


----------



## Ceadderman

Dang this stuff is espendy. I'm starting to think it may be easier to get an Eastwoods powder gun some colors and take over the oven for a few hours.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

The Montana Gold paints I use average $8-12/ can but sprays on like I'm using a paint brush (smooth control), need to pick up some Plasti to try it out since I've never dabbled in it


----------



## Ceadderman

Bill Owens and the mod zoo did a tutorial on PlastiDip spraying. Which of course peaked my DIY nature. And since I technically don't need a pro lay down coats for me, appeals too. Since almost all the work will be done by myself other than some little things that I'm not tooled for. Once I'm better established I will be tooling up for those things. I.E. Bench mill capable of larger projects and media blast cabinet. Those won't fit in my domicile either so new place with a garage should do.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Just a white EVGA Gs









Hope you Enjoy

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks good.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was hoping for some better light. But I am sure Ill get some shots after the case arrives... Whenever that may be...









Starting to wonder if I actually Ordered it


















TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Testing the old copper effect on a ek rad side mount plate:


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Testing the old copper effect on a ek rad side mount plate:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> /quote]
> 
> Looking good there.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Testing the old copper effect on a ek rad side mount plate:






How'd you get the rad sides off the rad???

Looks great, if that's the look you're going for!


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

I got a prob. my EK-DBay D5 reservoir isn't pumping and I don't know why.

Got everything plugged in correctly, the PSU is in test mode, all the fans are at full, the D5 is plug to the mobo and the PSU.

And the liquid isn't moving.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> 
> How'd you get the rad sides off the rad???
> 
> Looks great, if that's the look you're going for!


the EK Pe are made to be taken apart like the xspc rx series you can dismantle the rad housing to paint/powder coat it.

Note: i'm not sure which XSPC series can be dismantled.. if i'm right it's the rx. dont take my words for granted.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Testing the old copper effect on a ek rad side mount plate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yup!!!!... Great Job on that Old Copper look Gab, Came out real good in my opinion & really looks the part







...

Nam...


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I got a prob. my EK-DBay D5 reservoir isn't pumping and I don't know why.
> 
> Got everything plugged in correctly, the PSU is in test mode, all the fans are at full, the D5 is plug to the mobo and the PSU.
> 
> And the liquid isn't moving.


Is the pump turning on? If it is, did you try tilting the case to get any trapped air out?


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Is the pump turning on? If it is, did you try tilting the case to get any trapped air out?


That's the thing, the pump isn't starting.


----------



## electro2u

Case Question:

(especially for BNeg)
Non-CL tower for at least a 360mm and 240mm rad.

Xnay on the Phanteks offering

What would you guys use? I ordered a 750D airflow ed. But i would consider something else. Prefer not to need to do much dremel work.


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I got a prob. my EK-DBay D5 reservoir isn't pumping and I don't know why.
> 
> Got everything plugged in correctly, the PSU is in test mode, all the fans are at full, the D5 is plug to the mobo and the PSU.
> 
> And the liquid isn't moving.


Tried to loosen the pump a bit?
My D5 impeller hit the inside of the EK X-TOP and wouldn't rotate.

Just don't loosen it too much. Mine wouldn't rotate unless I loosened it to the point where it would leak.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Case Question:
> 
> (especially for BNeg)
> Non-CL tower for at least a 360mm and 240mm rad.
> 
> Xnay on the Phanteks offering
> 
> What would you guys use? I ordered a 750D airflow ed. But i would consider something else. *Prefer not to need to do much dremel work*.


Awww, but that's the best part.









Sorry I dont have any input on a case. (I do love me some LianLi thogh)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I got a prob. my EK-DBay D5 reservoir isn't pumping and I don't know why.
> 
> Got everything plugged in correctly, the PSU is in test mode, all the fans are at full, the D5 is plug to the mobo and the PSU.
> 
> And the liquid isn't moving.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Is the pump turning on? If it is, did you try tilting the case to get any trapped air out?
> 
> 
> 
> That's the thing, the pump isn't starting.
Click to expand...

First question: is it a PWM D5? . . . . If so . . .

Are you trying to leak test, and therefore do not have the mobo connected to the PSU?

If so, unplug the D5 connector from the mobo CPU header and try again.

That could be one problem to cross of the list straight away.

Darlene


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> First question: is it a PWM D5? . . . . If so . . .
> 
> Are you trying to leak test, and therefore do not have the mobo connected to the PSU?
> 
> If so, unplug the D5 connector from the mobo CPU header and try again.
> 
> That could be one problem to cross of the list straight away.
> 
> Darlene


Ok, so I just emptied my loop and took the pump off the reservoir to see if it actually turned on.

And yes it does.

So now that the pump is working, I put it back on and put a simple tube going from in to out.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Ok, so I just emptied my loop and took the pump off the reservoir to see if it actually turned on.
> 
> And yes it does.
> 
> So now that the pump is working, I put it back on and put a simple tube going from in to out.


So this works. Time to put it back. I think you had it Diva, on this test the pump wasn't plugged to the mobo.

Thanks


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Case Question:
> 
> (especially for BNeg)
> Non-CL tower for at least a 360mm and 240mm rad.
> 
> Xnay on the Phanteks offering
> 
> What would you guys use? I ordered a 750D airflow ed. But i would consider something else. Prefer not to need to do much dremel work.


Fractal R5


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm* 

Testing the old copper effect on a ek rad side mount plate:




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




>



Class job.

Very tidy and has the right feel,im impressed.

In other news....glass tube arrives for IDORU this weekend.


----------



## timerwin63

I'm looking at making a res out of a bottle for my next build, but I don't know what I'd use for end caps, and I don't know how I'd secure them, other than maybe some acrylic and an epoxy. Any other ideas?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I'm looking at making a res out of a bottle for my next build, but I don't know how I'd end up it, other than maybe some acrylic and an epoxy. Any other ideas?


Diamond grinding stick,pillar drill and patience. Seal with an epoxy,look on the 3M website for some proper sealant,dont use some bathroom grade silicone.....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Testing the old copper effect on a ek rad side mount plate:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> /quote]
> 
> Looking good there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> 
> How'd you get the rad sides off the rad???
> 
> Looks great, if that's the look you're going for!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> the EK Pe are made to be taken apart like the xspc rx series you can dismantle the rad housing to paint/powder coat it.
> 
> Note: i'm not sure which XSPC series can be dismantled.. if i'm right it's the rx. dont take my words for granted.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thks guys. Yep, Ram is right you can take the core of the EK PE out and have the side panels off. The same with XSPC AX series.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Yup!!!!... Great Job on that Old Copper look Gab, Came out real good in my opinion & really looks the part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Nam...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks Nan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing that made the difference was a final layer of matte clear sealant giving this old (instead of bright new) piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Class job.
> 
> Very tidy and has the right feel,im impressed.
> 
> In other news....glass tube arrives for IDORU this weekend.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thks B. "The roughness" is given by the green paint that have some texture on it, then a quick fine layer of copper paint, just a bit of very fine sand and the final step was a cover with transparent matte sealant to take the shinning off the copper paint. Without the sealant the effect would not be the same.
> 
> Ah great news. I had this feeling you were going to use the glass tubes from Mayhems in Idoru. That will be epic. I am looking forward to see the effect of the coolant inside those tubes
Click to expand...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Okay fellow water coolers I'm thinking of using Rigid tubing for the first time and would like some advice.

When looking at the tubing online I see Rigid Acrylic, Hard Tube Plexi and PETG, which one is better / easier for someone new to the world rigid tubing specifically in regards to tube bending?

Also and this one is for those that own the Monsoon bending mandrels: Will the 3/8 X 1/2 [13mm] set work for 12mm tubing so that I can use the Bitspower fittings?

Thanks in advance for any advice or help


----------



## snef




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay fellow water coolers I'm thinking of using Rigid tubing for the first time and would like some advice.
> 
> When looking at the tubing online I see Rigid Acrylic, Hard Tube Plexi and PETG, which one is better / easier for someone new to the world rigid tubing specifically in regards to tube bending?
> 
> Also and this one is for those that own the Monsoon bending mandrels: Will the 3/8 X 1/2 [13mm] set work for 12mm tubing so that I can use the Bitspower fittings?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice or help


I've used rigid acrylic since my first go around. Haven't turned back yet.









TCO


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Snef, you're making me tear up. Beautiful work. What method/material did you use to paint the GTs, just spray paint? I've heard dye is a safer solution.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Snef, you're making me tear up. Beautiful work. What method/material did you use to paint the GTs, just spray paint?


Thanks









used scotch bright for sanding

2 layer of white primer (Rust-Oleum)

1 layer of flat white on frame (Rust-Oleum)

and 2 layer or florescent green (Rust-Oleum) on blade


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Awww, but that's the best part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I dont have any input on a case. (I do love me some LianLi thogh)


yes there were some LianLi cases I was definitely considering.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Fractal R5


its a pretty conventional design but I really dont like doors you have to open to get to the optical drive space and reduced airflow. I thought it was funny that for years people have been asking Corsair to make vented front panels for their cases so they finally put one out for the 750D


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Then the Corsair Air 540.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I've used rigid acrylic since my first go around. Haven't turned back yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


This...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Coming along there nicely @snef









I like your eye for colors, your builds are always very pleasing to the eye.







lol

This one is for you @B NEGATIVE









I finally got some time to get er done.


----------



## Nornam

Just a couple pics showing some AC Love for the up-coming re-build that Me Old Mucker B Neg is going to come help me finish soon







...

A Very Nice Cuplex Kryos XT .925 Silver Edition (2011)....

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...e up from top down view of cpu block.jpg.html

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...block with camera lens in reflection.jpg.html

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...ose up of .925 silver stamp on block.jpg.html

And gonna be 2 of these Kryographics GTX 980 Acrylic/Glass Edition....

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/Namron500/media/NEW 2011-3 BUILD/face20view20of20block.jpg.html

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...1-3 BUILD/cleaner face view of block.jpg.html

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...late with active plate losely placed.jpg.html

I'm going to try and fit the GPU blocks to their cards in the next day or so to try & help with time for when Mr B comes to pay me a visit. I say try... As I'm not sure how I'll get on as I can't use my left arm or shoulder much & my neck & head are all hunched over at a weird angle sort of thing, so not entirely sure how I'll get on







.....

Nam.....


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Just a couple pics showing some AC Love for the up-coming re-build that Me Old Mucker B Neg is going to come help me finish soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> A Very Nice Cuplex Kryos XT .925 Silver Edition (2011)....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...e up from top down view of cpu block.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...block with camera lens in reflection.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...ose up of .925 silver stamp on block.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> And gonna be 2 of these Kryographics GTX 980 Acrylic/Glass Edition....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/Namron500/media/NEW 2011-3 BUILD/face20view20of20block.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...1-3 BUILD/cleaner face view of block.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...late with active plate losely placed.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to try and fit the GPU blocks to their cards in the next day or so to try & help with time for when Mr B comes to pay me a visit. I say try... As I'm not sure how I'll get on as I can't use my left arm or shoulder much & my neck & head are all hunched over at a weird angle sort of thing, so not entirely sure how I'll get on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> Nam.....


Nam I hope you start feeling better soon! I wish you all the best. I thought the active cooling backplate was not compatible with sli setup? I think I read that on Strens review on his site for that 980 block and backplate.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Nam I hope you start feeling better soon! I wish you all the best. I thought the active cooling backplate was not compatible with sli setup? I think I read that on Strens review on his site for that 980 block and backplate.


Cheers Newtocooling appreciate your thoughts mate







..... Have to say I'd not heard that about the Sli thing & the 980 backplates berfore, I guess I'll find out soon enough lol when I come to fit them...... AHHH Well!!!.. The Joys of watercooling huh







...

Thanks for heads up on that mind & I'll certainly let peeps know what the outcome is when fitted







...

Nam....


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Cheers Newtocooling appreciate your thoughts mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... Have to say I'd not heard that about the Sli thing & the 980 backplates berfore, I guess I'll find out soon enough lol when I come to fit them...... AHHH Well!!!.. The Joys of watercooling huh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Thanks for heads up on that mind & I'll certainly let peeps know what the outcome is when fitted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Nam....


I hope I'm wrong but check this review if you have time.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/02/aquacomputer-kryographics-for-gtx-980-review-aquacomputers-gtx-980-water-block-active-backplate/


----------



## ozzy1925

i filled my system last week, today i when i set my pumps to max, my water level dropped around 1-2mm but when pumps set to %50 iwater goes higher.This is because of air or i have a leak somewhere?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i filled my system last week, today i when i set my pumps to max, my water level dropped around 1-2mm but when pumps set to %50 iwater goes higher.This is because of air or i have a leak somewhere?


I am going 99% because of the space in the rads. They are filling up. You may need to top off the res for a week or so while the air is displaced with liquid from the loop.

TCO


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am going 99% because of the space in the rads. They are filling up. You may need to top off the res for a week or so while the air is displaced with liquid from the loop.
> 
> TCO


sorry for my english , do you mean i should leave the reservoir port open for a week?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> sorry for my english , do you mean i should leave the reservoir port open for a week?


No keep it airtight like you are. But while your pumps are on full speed, open the res and fill it (Not to the top) but where you are comfortable.

I had to do this same process for about a week on my Sma8 due to the Rad being above the system. The fluid wants to push down back into the res due to gravity, so when the pumps are on full speed, you top it off and then close the Res to make it air tight.

TCO


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> used scotch bright for sanding
> 
> 2 layer of white primer (Rust-Oleum)
> 
> 1 layer of flat white on frame (Rust-Oleum)
> 
> and 2 layer or florescent green (Rust-Oleum) on blade


gotta love rustoleum, stuff is super durable... and cheap









if you want to try some killer plastic primer I highly suggest looking for some -XIM plastic bonding primer. this stuff literally becomes part of the plastic when fully cured it is awesome!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No keep it airtight like you are. But while your pumps are on full speed, open the res and fill it (Not to the top) but where you are comfortable.
> 
> I had to do this same process for about a week on my Sma8 due to the Rad being above the system. The fluid wants to push down back into the res due to gravity, so when the pumps are on full speed, you top it off and then close the Res to make it air tight.
> 
> TCO


thanks i should i fill with fluid or just open for 1 min let the air out and then close ?because i already have enough water atm


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i filled my system last week, today i when i set my pumps to max, my water level dropped around 1-2mm but when pumps set to %50 iwater goes higher.This is because of air or i have a leak somewhere?


More likely water displacement cause by the pumps when maxed out.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks i should i fill with fluid or just open for 1 min let the air out and then close ?because i already have enough water atm


If you have enough water (fluid) ATM, then just run it until the fluid drops down. UNLESS, when you turn on the pumps, the fluid level isn't high enough for you.

TCO




Kinda like this.


----------



## electro2u

God Bl3ss America your build is stunning TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> used scotch bright for sanding
> 
> 2 layer of white primer (Rust-Oleum)
> 
> 1 layer of flat white on frame (Rust-Oleum)
> 
> and 2 layer or florescent green (Rust-Oleum) on blade
> 
> 
> 
> gotta love rustoleum, stuff is super durable... and cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you want to try some killer plastic primer I highly suggest looking for some -XIM plastic bonding primer. this stuff literally becomes part of the plastic when fully cured it is awesome!
Click to expand...

I love their Universal Advanced Formula. Don't even need a primer coat with that stuff. Sprayed the access panel from my MB block and it's still looking sharp 2 years after the fact.












~Ceadder


----------



## jleslie246

What temps are you getting under full load on your GPU's?

Looks awesome!


----------



## Ceadderman

Who? Me?

0c. CPU and MB too.







lol

That pic is of my Trayless case and the 360 is simply sitting there disconnected in the intended mounting location. I am replacing it but it makes a great placeholder. Two PE 360s will be going there. One is going to face the other on the opposite side of the case.

~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> God Bl3ss America your build is stunning TCO


I bow my Head to you Sir













This Board is so..... Tiny









When I opened up the Package from Amazon... I was Like "This is It?? "

TCO


----------



## kuppaz88

This is my first Post on this site, but I've spent a lot of time here. I have built PC's before, but this is my first attempt at a water cooled build. It was lot of fun, but really stressful as well. I think I'll be changing over to rigid tubing in the very near future, just because I like the streamlined look it provides. Any input or suggestions would be great! Thanks!


----------



## deadwidesmile

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuppaz88*
> 
> This is my first Post on this site, but I've spent a lot of time here. I have built PC's before, but this is my first attempt at a water cooled build. It was lot of fun, but really stressful as well. I think I'll be changing over to rigid tubing in the very near future, just because I like the streamlined look it provides. Any input or suggestions would be great! Thanks!






I want a SFF so bad. That looks great, man! +1.


----------



## kuppaz88

Thanks. Appreciate it. That box is a lot of fun to build in. TONS of room. Thinking about having the window face up, and cutting out another window where the bottom is now. So if/when I water cool my GPU you can see it. lol


----------



## electro2u

I dont know if id consider a 540 SFF but it looks great! I wish i had enough workspace to put one of those cases on my desk.


----------



## kuppaz88

Yeah, its definietly not a SFF lol. A big honking cube. My desk is positioined right next to a 2 foot high, 2 foot deep ledge along my basement wall, so it sits up there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Need a 3rd monitor or 40+" flatscreen.









~Ceadder


----------



## kuppaz88

Lol. I was actually using a 42" monitor, but was getting headaches from being so close.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I dont know if id consider a 540 SFF but it looks great! I wish i had enough workspace to put one of those cases on my desk.


By definition, its smaller then matx (itx, or m-dtx), two slots (case), and under 30L in volume. 540 is definitely out of range for SFF


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> By definition, its smaller then matx (itx, or m-dtx), two slots (case), and under 30L in volume. 540 is definitely out of range for SFF


Ah! I had no idea it was a 540, lol. Shows what I know. The X9 is pretty damn big so my idea of SFF is anything less than the last 2 cases, a Phantom 820 and Core X9.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I hope I'm wrong but check this review if you have time.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/02/aquacomputer-kryographics-for-gtx-980-review-aquacomputers-gtx-980-water-block-active-backplate/


Hmmmmmm Interesting read that, Cheers Newtocooling







....

Looking at my Motherboard (ASROCK X99 EXTREME 11) I think I'll be OK, I might just have to make sure I get my Ram in place before I put the top GPU in. But from just looking at all out the boxes it looks like it'll be close (like alot of cards do these day) but think it'll just about fit with the backplate..









Thanks again...

Nam...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Since my black pastel on Chessboard turn in to a porter ale color:



and while I wait for the replacement Mick from Mayhems said is coming I decided to clean it up with blitz part II again:



and have a go at a local coolant from gbawatercooler: https://gbawatercooler.com.br/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=116_157_164&product_id=177

I like the color. It is glycol based and not opaque like pastel. Let's see how this go on the loop:




for comparison sake this was with black pastel before changing color:



you can see is more open on the tube with the non-pastel liquid


----------



## wermad

I'll take a triple shot espresso good sir









In the last pic, the new black is a bit transparent. Still looks good though


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'll take a triple shot espresso good sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last pic, the new black is a bit transparent. Still looks good though


Yeah the last shot is black pastel before turning to brown. The two pics above it are the new coolant and you can see on the tubes it is more transparent and not so opaque like pastel. But I like it in fact


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like a sweet Cuppocino machine. Gonna need lots of Caffeine for my build.









Mind if I borrow it good sir?









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like a sweet Cuppocino machine. Gonna need lots of Caffeine for my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind if I borrow it good sir?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


it does look like doesn't?









Well since I am working on this htpc build at the same time I am finishing Grey Matter, decided to call it "Old Copper". First rad is ready (keep clicking on the pic to see high res and texture on it):





build log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1566340/old-copper-a-nova-x2m-htpc-build#post_24211213


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If you have enough water (fluid) ATM, then just run it until the fluid drops down. UNLESS, when you turn on the pumps, the fluid level isn't high enough for you.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda like this.


i opened the top res port when system is running and water goes down 1 cm. more after i let it run for 1-2 mins. than closed the port.Should i do it everyday till water level stays same?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i opened the top res port when system is running and water goes down 1 cm. more after i let it run for 1-2 mins. than closed the port.Should i do it everyday till water level stays same?


No mate pretty normal. Just top it off to the level you want and close the port. It is also normal that the liquid go down a bit if you increase the pump speed due to increased vortex/suction pressure the pump does on the reservoir. You are good


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No mate pretty normal. Just top it off to the level you want and close the port. It is also normal that the liquid go down a bit if you increase the pump speed due to increased vortex/suction pressure the pump does on the reservoir. You are good


thank you,i also noticed when i turn off my pc water level goes up after i start it goes down to the same stop like 1cm. is that also normal ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No mate pretty normal. Just top it off to the level you want and close the port. It is also normal that the liquid go down a bit if you increase the pump speed due to increased vortex/suction pressure the pump does on the reservoir. You are good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you,i also noticed when i turn off my pc water level goes up after i start it goes down to the same stop like 1cm. is that also normal ?
Click to expand...

Yes...if there is air present. Keep the bleeding going and leave the fill port loose.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Since my black pastel on Chessboard turn in to a porter ale color:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and while I wait for the replacement Mick from Mayhems said is coming I decided to clean it up with blitz part II again:
> 
> 
> 
> and have a go at a local coolant from gbawatercooler: https://gbawatercooler.com.br/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=116_157_164&product_id=177
> 
> I like the color. It is glycol based and not opaque like pastel. Let's see how this go on the loop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for comparison sake this was with black pastel before changing color:
> 
> 
> 
> you can see is more open on the tube with the non-pastel liquid


Actually this pic looks like you're making coffee with milk on the side.







Heh heh heh heh


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Since my black pastel on Chessboard turn in to a porter ale color:


Coffee watercooling... I see!


----------



## crafty615

Has anyone ever tried draining their loop and filling it with 75% Pine-Sol and 25% Lysol and let it run for an hour to clean it? I read somewhere that it is a good way to clean your loop.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried draining their loop and filling it with 75% Pine-Sol and 25% Lysol and let it run for an hour to clean it? I read somewhere that it is a good way to clean your loop.


I won't be doing that anytime soon, personally I'd use something like this:

*LINK*


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried draining their loop and filling it with 75% Pine-Sol and 25% Lysol and let it run for an hour to clean it? I read somewhere that it is a good way to clean your loop.


I tried using a hot 25% vinegar solution just for my rads, and i flushed them out every hour. Did this three or four times, and then switched to 10% and then pure distilled, and it seemed to get everything out. These were alphacool rads exclusively.

Im not sure if I can recommend this for the entire loop though...


----------



## SteezyTN

I first flushed my rads with distilled. Then when it came to changing to colored soft tubing, I flushed them with white vinegar and distilled (1:4 cup ratio). Then once I started using Pastel Ice white from mayhems, I ran blitz pro. So for my new rads, I'll flush them with the vinegar solution as well as the blitz pro.


----------



## electro2u

I just got my 750d airflow delivery in. I knew the internals were going to be the same as a 760t for the most part. But im just so underwhelmed by the overall look. The 760T looks great by comparison but I'm tired of it. The rainbow effect coming off the tinted window panel around the flushed handle bothers me. I was looking again at the Merlin SM8 and even the Nova Xm2. What should i do?!

The Nova is the perfect size for my desk except for being mITX only. I could live with 2x240mm rads but... the SM8 is so much better inside...but huge and very expensive. Someone make up my mind for me?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Since my black pastel on Chessboard turn in to a porter ale color:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and while I wait for the replacement Mick from Mayhems said is coming I decided to clean it up with blitz part II again:


Blitz is safe to run in the system? I'd like to give my blocks on Icarus Wings a nice cleaning before installing in Daedalic (2tone CL S8 to arrive Monday!)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Actually this pic looks like you're making coffee with milk on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heh heh heh heh


Pina Colada mix piques my interest








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I was looking again at the Merlin SM8 and even the Nova Xm2. What should i do?!
> 
> The Nova is the perfect size for my desk except for being mITX only. I could live with 2x240mm rads but... the SM8 is so much better inside...but huge and very expensive. Someone make up my mind for me?


I believe the Nova line is discontinued as of the end of June


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Blitz is safe to run in the system? I'd like to give my blocks on Icarus Wings a nice cleaning before installing in Daedalic (2tone CL S8 to arrive Monday!)
> Pina Colada mix piques my interest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the Nova line is discontinued as of the end of June


Blitz part II is safe to run. Don't run part I on the whole loop. Part I is for rads only.

Two models of the nova line never came out and probably never will. But the X2M is out and alive.

yeah...coffee au lait









Daytime pics of the Old Copper paint job (keep it clicking within pic to zoom in and see the texture):


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Blitz is safe to run in the system? I'd like to give my blocks on Icarus Wings a nice cleaning before installing in Daedalic (2tone CL S8 to arrive Monday!)
> Pina Colada mix piques my interest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the Nova line is discontinued as of the end of June


Blitz 2 has worked great for me, I diluted it more than on the bottle and ran it for a good long time (12 hours if memory serves), cleaned off some stubborn stains of some sort off of one of my RAM blocks. It's foamy so go easy. I used the incluided pH meter to verify the blitz 2 got new DI water to come out proper pH.

Nova X2M is brand new I thought? Its still up for sale on the website.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Blitz 2 has worked great for me, I diluted it more than on the bottle and ran it for a good long time (12 hours if memory serves), cleaned off some stubborn stains of some sort off of one of my RAM blocks. It's foamy so go easy. I used the incluided pH meter to verify the blitz 2 got new DI water to come out proper pH.
> 
> Nova X2M is brand new I thought? Its still up for sale on the website.


The X2M _is_ brand new. I remember the development thread finished only about 2-3 months ago. It seems like a decent little case, and is extremely versatile for something that size. Provided, for an mITX system, it's still quite large (there are some reasonably well-equipped mATX cases that are smaller) but if I had to choose between that and something the size of the SM8, I'd pick the Nova every time. Then again, I'm a bit biased about size.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

so I just received my ek water block for my 780ti kingpin and it has no terminal with it.

can some one show me where I can buy the single terminal I need or if you have a spare one I could get off of you send me a PM









Thanks


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> so I just received my ek water block for my 780ti kingpin and it has no terminal with it.
> 
> can some one show me where I can buy the single terminal I need or if you have a spare one I could get off of you send me a PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


i only have a few spare, like 10... but the question begs, do you have the screws for it? I am leaving for emergency leave, but I will toss it in my truck and try to ship it today if you get me an address through a PM right away. Also, Acetal or Plexi?


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> i only have a few spare, like 10... but the question begs, do you have the screws for it? I am leaving for emergency leave, but I will toss it in my truck and try to ship it today if you get me an address through a PM right away. Also, Acetal or Plexi?


LOVE this community









+ rep


----------



## Ceadderman

Question:

I am wondering if it would be better to run x2 dominator coolers on their own stick(AMD spread) or just get an x4.

I thought EK used to make an x3 for Intel x6 spread setups where the RAM split evenly on both sides of the CPU but can't even find one atm and an x4 would hang off my 2x8 Doms and be quite ugly to my sense of linear beauty.

I'm thinking that if I run x2s' atop their own Dom that it might look better and may even cool them better. Not that I *need* better cooling for 1600s but am looking for 2000s to get my system overclocked properly...

So anyone know if I should do the x2s or if I can get a x3 block? I will do a x4 but last resort I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> LOVE this community
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> + rep


Ill rep you both for the good cheer and generosity.

Xant help but wonder how one comes upon 10 terminals for a 980 ti kingpin block but im also just as mustified as how it came without one...


----------



## Ceadderman

Multiple SLi maybe.









~Ceadder


----------



## defiler2k

I believe those are non CSQ bridges, If so I have a few acetal spares with the screws that I believe have extra screws and O rings in case you need them, would be more than happy to stick one in the mail for you if you can't get it from Scarlet-tech
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> so I just received my ek water block for my 780ti kingpin and it has no terminal with it.
> 
> can some one show me where I can buy the single terminal I need or if you have a spare one I could get off of you send me a PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Question:
> I'm thinking that if I run x2s' atop their own Dom that it might look better and may even cool them better. Not that I *need* better cooling for 1600s but am looking for 2000s to get my system overclocked properly...


As far as I'm aware, the RAM blocks are still for looks even at 2400


----------



## electro2u

This is going to be fun... what motherboard should I get for iTX X99? Does that even exist or should I use my 4790k?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be fun... what motherboard should I get for iTX X99? Does that even exist or should I use my 4790k?


it is a fun case. Working on it right now. There is at least one x99 itx I am aware of:

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/X99E-ITXac/


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be fun... what motherboard should I get for iTX X99? Does that even exist or should I use my 4790k?


ASRock actually has the only X99 ITX boards, but they use the narrow-ILM mount, which requires a special mount, which EK does sell.
However can only run 2 sticks of memory in dual channel.


Tho there is also a model that runs laptop memory in quad channel, but seems to be more server oriented.


----------



## electro2u

Yeah I think I'll go with Z97 in the Nova. Not sure if I'll rebuild in the 750 or 760 with the x99 stuff or not.

I'm actually pretty bummed that the Nova only ships pre-assembled. My plan was to have the case painted with hydrographics except not with this pattern:


----------



## sinnedone

Odd choice there. So they take everything that makes a 2011-3 better than mainstream cpus(quad channel ram/additional pcie lanes) and remove it. So you're basically left with a mainstream itx board with 2/4 extra cpu cores.

I guess if theyre selling them there must be a market for those boards. I just think theyre neutering the 2011-3 chipset. Lol


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Odd choice there. So they take everything that makes a 2011-3 better than mainstream cpus(quad channel ram/additional pcie lanes) and remove it. So you're basically left with a mainstream itx board with 2/4 extra cpu cores.
> 
> I guess if theyre selling them there must be a market for those boards. I just think theyre neutering the 2011-3 chipset. Lol


There are trade offs for itx even on z97/87/. No SLI, two slots for ram, 4 sata and less fan headers.

There is just not room for power delivery and quad channel ram it seems.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure that ASUS will be bringing out RoG z97 board. They usually launch something from their lineup for the newer tech.









@Archea... Agreed. But while this is mostly for looks, it's also for cooling of the RAM in my build. Nearly zero airflow over the RAM due to no fans directly blowing from the front and the ones blowing through the top will be directing airflow over the GUYS which will impede airflow to the rest of the MB which is watercooled via waterblock. So the block(s) will be necessary in my case.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> There are trade offs for itx even on z97/87/. No SLI, two slots for ram, 4 sata and less fan headers.
> 
> There is just not room for power delivery and quad channel ram it seems.


I'd absolutely go mITX on z97 with a 980ti but I don't think I would go smaller than mATX on a 2011


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> so I just received my ek water block for my 780ti kingpin and it has no terminal with it.
> 
> can some one show me where I can buy the single terminal I need or if you have a spare one I could get off of you send me a PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Where did you buy your waterblock? It should come with FC link/terminal. You should tell the seller that you didn't get the FC link/terminal.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> so I just received my ek water block for my 780ti kingpin and it has no terminal with it.
> 
> can some one show me where I can buy the single terminal I need or if you have a spare one I could get off of you send me a PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I believe those are non CSQ bridges, If so I have a few acetal spares with the screws that I believe have extra screws and O rings in case you need them, would be more than happy to stick one in the mail for you if you can't get it from Scarlet-tech
Click to expand...

Think he might mean this:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> so I just received my ek water block for my 780ti kingpin and it has no terminal with it.
> 
> can some one show me where I can buy the single terminal I need or if you have a spare one I could get off of you send me a PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Where did you buy your waterblock? It should come with FC link/terminal. You should tell the seller that you didn't get the FC link/terminal.
Click to expand...

Qft. If you bought it from a retailer, contact them. Also, pm the Ek rep just in case if the retailer does not offer warranty support (EK will take over then). If you bought it used, well, I'm sure there's no support/warranty, but do not fret, someone here may have one to give you or EK may have it on there site.

These used to be called "links" but I think they refer to them now as terminals (i call them port-piece to distinguish these from the "terminal" bridges).

Good luck









edit: ek sells the clear plexi version. Check if a shop has it as shipping from them can get expensive.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-plexi


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Pretty sure that ASUS will be bringing out RoG z97 board.* They usually launch something from their lineup for the newer tech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Archea... Agreed. But while this is mostly for looks, it's also for cooling of the RAM in my build. Nearly zero airflow over the RAM due to no fans directly blowing from the front and the ones blowing through the top will be directing airflow over the GUYS which will impede airflow to the rest of the MB which is watercooled via waterblock. So the block(s) will be necessary in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You mean the already released for some time GENE?



As for X99 RoG mATX or ITX,ASUS UK have told me point blank that its not going to happen.......however,they may not be telling me the truth.....


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Im looking into getting an M7 Gene so I can go into a smaller case. Getting kinda tired of my 900D. I even listed it on craigslist for like $200...

Anyway my question is this: With skylake coming out, should i wait for the M7G to go down in price, or is not going to?

Im debating between the gene and the m6I


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Pretty sure that ASUS will be bringing out RoG z97 board.* They usually launch something from their lineup for the newer tech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Archea... Agreed. But while this is mostly for looks, it's also for cooling of the RAM in my build. Nearly zero airflow over the RAM due to no fans directly blowing from the front and the ones blowing through the top will be directing airflow over the GUYS which will impede airflow to the rest of the MB which is watercooled via waterblock. So the block(s) will be necessary in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You mean the already released for some time GENE?
> 
> 
> 
> As for X99 RoG mATX or ITX,ASUS UK have told me point blank that its not going to happen.......however,they may not be telling me the truth.....
Click to expand...

Kinda dumb of ASUS not to imho. MSi and GB would love to fill that need in their abscence. Didn't they have one in z87 chipset?









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kinda dumb of ASUS not to imho. MSi and GB would love to fill that need in their abscence. Didn't they have one in z87 chipset?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


asus did make and release MG7 and itx Rog z97 boards. if thats what you meant.
Quote:


> Pretty sure that ASUS will be bringing out RoG z97 board. They usually launch something from their lineup for the newer tech. thinking.gif


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> asus did make and release MG7 and itx Rog z97 boards. if thats what you meant.


Think he was referring to the x99 versions


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Think he was referring to the x99 versions


that was not what he said







You might be right though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Pretty sure that ASUS will be bringing out RoG z97 board.* They usually launch something from their lineup for the newer tech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

or Z170 (Skylake)


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

So is the z97 platform coming down in price this month or next month?


----------



## sinnedone

If the trends follow the last couple of cycles, the motherboards will be the ones to come down in price. (not right away though) The cpu's will probably come down like 20 bucks compared to their new counterparts.

Usually within the first month this has happened in the past.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/ipe7TdbTj

Got a new cpu block, i've got a perfectly good EK block but i love the look of this.


----------



## emsj86

What type of thermal paste do you use for motherboard heatsinks. Is it ok to use artic silver 5 or is it not recommended like with gpu blocks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What type of thermal paste do you use for motherboard heatsinks. Is it ok to use artic silver 5 or is it not recommended like with gpu blocks.


I used Gelid extreme that comes with the Ek products.

TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I used Gelid extreme that comes with the Ek products.
> 
> TCO


I second that, the Gelid Extreme is a good all around paste.


----------



## sdmf74

Gelid extreme is best


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I second that, the Gelid Extreme is a good all around paste.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Gelid extreme is best


Tickle Me Pink.

Guess I am not alone in this one!

TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Tickle Me Pink.


Adorable.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A delid for me....



And a day at the Beach for Magoo...


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A delid for me....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a day at the Beach for Magoo...


Do you have your delid die guard?








jk

Just curious: what method did you use?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> If the trends follow the last couple of cycles, the motherboards will be the ones to come down in price. (not right away though) The cpu's will probably come down like 20 bucks compared to their new counterparts.
> 
> Usually within the first month this has happened in the past.


Thats great! Looking forward to being able to pick up the gene. With any luck, EK's blocks for this board will be cheaper too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A delid for me....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a day at the Beach for Magoo...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have your delid die guard?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jk
> 
> Just curious: what method did you use?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> If the trends follow the last couple of cycles, the motherboards will be the ones to come down in price. (not right away though) The cpu's will probably come down like 20 bucks compared to their new counterparts.
> 
> Usually within the first month this has happened in the past.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thats great! Looking forward to being able to pick up the gene. With any luck, EK's blocks for this board will be cheaper too.
Click to expand...

Im not running naked so I dont need one.


----------



## clubbin09

heres my pc


----------



## crafty615

Has anyone gotten a package, like an EK waterblock from Performance Pcs and the sticker seals been broken? If so, does this mean it was used and I should send it back?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Has anyone gotten a package, like an EK waterblock from Performance Pcs and the sticker seals been broken? If so, does this mean it was used and I should send it back?


Yes, and from FCPU back in the day. The response that I received is that they wanted to verify that it is the right model (acetal vs. acrylic, etc.).


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Yes, and from FCPU back in the day. The response that I received is that they wanted to verify that it is the right model (acetal vs. acrylic, etc.).


so i should not worry about it? becuase I already have to send back my acrylic bending kit as the sent me the wrong size.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> so i should not worry about it? becuase I already have to send back my acrylic bending kit as the sent me the wrong size.


I personally wouldn't worry about it but you could send them an email and ask them about it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> so i should not worry about it? becuase I already have to send back my acrylic bending kit as the sent me the wrong size.


Yea, Don't Trip, Make sure the O Rings are in there and the Hex screws are Tight.

TCO


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/ipe7TdbTj
> 
> Got a new cpu block, i've got a perfectly good EK block but i love the look of this.


Yeah, I think Watercool did a great job on this block. Drop dead sexy!


----------



## Gabrielzm

[quote name="khemist
Got a new cpu block, i've got a perfectly good EK block but i love the look of this.[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Yeah, I think Watercool did a great job on this block. Drop dead sexy!


Yep. It is one, if not the one, most beautiful block out there. Specially the version Anthracite that you got.


----------



## Jasonbla20

I posted this in the official Corsair 750D forum, but I want a build in here







so here it is again,

Finished my X99 build in the 750D!




I decided to upgrade the 4670k and z87 PRO because I found a sweet deal locally on a brand new 5930k for $390. Keeping with the theme of upgrading on the cheap, I bought the ASUS X99 PRO from Newegg as an open box item for $236. The ram is 16GB GSKILL DDR4 2400 MHz, which was $139.99. All in all, not too bad for X99.

I'd planned on adding a second 240mm rad in the bottom of the 750D for awhile now. I bought the parts a few months ago, I just needed some motivation - with buying a new house and moving, I was worn out. But upgrading the whole PC is a little more enticing than just adding a rad smile.gif I had to switch my PSU from a 200mm length to a 170mm length to make the bottom rad possible. Interestingly, I did actually manage to fit the 240mm rad in with the 200mm length PSU - I had to hook the PSU up first, the unbolt it and move it out of the way, then drop in the radiator. It actually all fit, and it looked like I could mount fittings, although it would've been tight. I swapped them anyways because I want to add a drain port to my loop at some future date.


----------



## yutzybrian

Newest pic!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. It is one, if not the one, most beautiful block out there. Specially the version Anthracite that you got.


Yeah, i'll have to switch my EK 980Ti block out for the Watercool version when it's released.. should be very soon.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Rads for "Old Copper" are done:












the tape section is where the reservoir will be.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonbla20*
> 
> I posted this in the official Corsair 750D forum, but I want a build in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so here it is again,
> 
> Finished my X99 build in the 750D!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Corsair is now selling Airflow front panels like that of the 450d for the 750d. on the website go to case parts and search for 750d. 15$


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Think he was referring to the x99 versions
> 
> 
> 
> that was not what he said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might be right though.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Pretty sure that ASUS will be bringing out RoG z97 board.* They usually launch something from their lineup for the newer tech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Yup. Meant the z99. Difficult to hold little man with one arm while he's being squirmy and type on my phone with the other.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Has anyone gotten a package, like an EK waterblock from Performance Pcs and the sticker seals been broken? If so, does this mean it was used and I should send it back?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, and from FCPU back in the day. The response that I received is that they wanted to verify that it is the right model (acetal vs. acrylic, etc.).
Click to expand...

This. Also could be that it was a block that was sent back for whatever reason, or one they opened to use and didn't. Honestly these things happen more than you'd think. So long as all the pieces are there, it should be just fine. I would certainly contact them for placeholder sake so that if you do have a problem (missing pieces etc.) you can point to your having contacted them with the email info. Always protect yourself and them with good communication.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup. *Meant the z99*. Difficult to hold little man with one arm while he's being squirmy and type on my phone with the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This. Also could be that it was a block that was sent back for whatever reason, or one they opened to use and didn't. Honestly these things happen more than you'd think. So long as all the pieces are there, it should be just fine. I would certainly contact them for placeholder sake so that if you do have a problem (missing pieces etc.) you can point to your having contacted them with the email info. Always protect yourself and them with good communication.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


it is *X*99 actually. Sorry to nit pick. it would be simpler if it was z79, z99 but I guess the x is for e*X*tra money for intel.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> it is *X*99 actually. Sorry to nit pick. it would be simpler if it was z79, z99 but I guess the x is for e*X*tra money for intel.
> 
> so x79 and x99 or *simply socket 2011-3* for the newer one.


TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Has anyone gotten a package, like an EK waterblock from Performance Pcs and the sticker seals been broken? If so, does this mean it was used and I should send it back?


A few weeks ago I received a black ice nemesis 560GTS with the seal broken. I was frustrated because I'm paying full price for an open box. I know it was a customer return because the actual hard box it was in was damaged on the inside that holds the rad in place. I shot them an email, and they refunded me a "whole 5%". Oh well. They said they receive hundreds of returns a day, and if it looks brand new, and hasn't been used, they sell it for new. I know it sounds ridiculous, but that's something they need to change: either stop accepting returns, or simply sell it as open box.

Edit** I want to delid my 4770k, but I'm scared to lol. I bet it would drop my overall temps and GPU temps.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


That is a must do if your going to delid IMO, looks great!

how high of grit did you go up to, when I did mine 2000 was the highest I had on hand. it made a decent difference over not lapping.
I
did not lap the first time around then it bothered me that I did not do it so I took it all apart a day after deliding


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a must do if your going to delid IMO, looks great!
> 
> how high of grit did you go up to, when I did mine 2000 was the highest I had on hand. it made a decent difference over not lapping.
> I
> did not lap the first time around then it bothered me that I did not do it so I took it all apart a day after deliding
Click to expand...

I used 2500...I have a 3000 and a 4000 pad but I dont want to clog them with copper,they are really for plastics.


----------



## electro2u

I use liquid pro and its actually better to rough the surface of the ihs up a bit. That and i think Darlene has pointed out that the surfaves of ihs and heatsinks are slightly convex/concave and lapping can interfere with proper transfer. Ive personally lapped heatsinks many times and always thought i saw good results so idk.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Awesome lapping B. But how's it look pulled away from the monitor? I judge for clarity.







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup. *Meant the z99*. Difficult to hold little man with one arm while he's being squirmy and type on my phone with the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This. Also could be that it was a block that was sent back for whatever reason, or one they opened to use and didn't. Honestly these things happen more than you'd think. So long as all the pieces are there, it should be just fine. I would certainly contact them for placeholder sake so that if you do have a problem (missing pieces etc.) you can point to your having contacted them with the email info. Always protect yourself and them with good communication.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is *X*99 actually. Sorry to nit pick. it would be simpler if it was z79, z99 but I guess the x is for e*X*tra money for intel.
Click to expand...









I have always thought X is AMD and Z is Intel for chipsets. I'm probably wrong. But when I shop for boards I simply use the categories to get me to the ones I need and make sure their specs are right.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I use liquid pro and its actually better to rough the surface of the ihs up a bit. That and i think Darlene has pointed out that the surfaves of ihs and heatsinks are slightly convex/concave and lapping can interfere with proper transfer. Ive personally lapped heatsinks many times and always thought i saw good results so idk.


Lapping a chip is fine,lapping a waterblock is not,especially an EK block.
I will be using Grizzly Kryonaut on the block side,CLU on the inside.


----------



## Domler

ROAD TRIP!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I use liquid pro and its actually better to rough the surface of the ihs up a bit. That and i think Darlene has pointed out that the surfaves of ihs and heatsinks are slightly convex/concave and lapping can interfere with proper transfer. Ive personally lapped heatsinks many times and always thought i saw good results so idk.


The purpose of lapping is to get rid of any domage and make the ridges and valleys imperceptible to the naked eye smaller allowing better thermal conductivity between the IHS and the CPU cooler of choice.

Doubtful it plays any negative part in the part of the chip. Because if this were truly the case the manufacturers would include better coolers with their chips. Coolers that actually make consistent contact with the top of the IHS.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheGovernment

Hey guys, looking for ideas on how to make my top rad to CPU block look better. I used to have a Asus WS-E board in this case and everything fit perfectly straight. I've since gotten rid of it (well 3 of them actually) since they are piles of crap lol. Anyways, I got a MSI Xpower and of course, everything is a little off of the holes I used to have. I don't want to use acrylic since I change out my stuff all the time but can't seem to find a good way to make the rounded part look cleaner with parts available.
The top rad hole through to the CPU doesn't line up and it's impossible to run a straight line and I'm not bothering to tap another hole in there as I'll just change it again soon enough. I was looking for some type of 90 degree double ended unit or something to make it a square but since the line on the cpu block needs to swivel, it will point down with extra weight.
The bottom hose off the GPU to the bottom is a little crooked as well because of course the new mobo is slightly forward vs the Asus lol but that I can live with, unless another idea is had for it too. Oh and the tubing is 3/8 ID

Thanks in advance.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I use liquid pro and its actually better to rough the surface of the ihs up a bit. That and i think Darlene has pointed out that the surfaves of ihs and heatsinks are slightly convex/concave and lapping can interfere with proper transfer. Ive personally lapped heatsinks many times and always thought i saw good results so idk.
> 
> 
> 
> The purpose of lapping is to get rid of any domage and make the ridges and valleys imperceptible to the naked eye smaller allowing better thermal conductivity between the IHS and the CPU cooler of choice.
> 
> Doubtful it plays any negative part in the part of the chip. Because if this were truly the case the manufacturers would include better coolers with their chips. Coolers that actually make consistent contact with the top of the IHS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I did it because the IHS was concave and the contact patch was rubbish.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Hey guys, looking for ideas on how to make my top rad to CPU block look better.


maybe try turning the 90 from the rad towards the sidepanel and using just a compression fitting on the block.

will give it the effect of just going straight up and down.

or maybe from gpu>cpu>mobo>rad


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> ROAD TRIP!!!


Now we're they open for business







it's a good omen their sign is still on the building though


----------



## TheGovernment

Thats a good idea for the cpu block but with the way the vrm block is set, you can't tighten down the compression fitting unless I get a 10 mm spacer in there and it will end up hitting the side window lol.
It kinda has to be turned to the side. I know I could just get 2 x 90 degree adapters that you screw on fitting to but I'd rather not have to spend 40$ on fittings to do it unless I have to lol

I know I could just change the flow as well but I was hoping there was some sort of fitting or something I just didn't know of that would work in that situation.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> ROAD TRIP!!!


Lights are on. But is anyone home?









I want to see customers with cash in hand going in and products in bags passing them on their way out before I buy from them.

No offense but the parking lot lacks the shadows consistent with "busy".









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Think I could watercool this?

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Think I could watercool this?
> 
> TCO


Alienware?


----------



## TheGovernment

Looks like a ps4


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Think I could watercool this?
> 
> TCO


I guess if you can WC a 360 you could WC a PS4 if you don't care about the warranty.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Alienware?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I guess if you can WC a 360 you could WC a PS4 if you don't care about the warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea... Warranty.... Usually I don't get along very well with those. Plus it's out of warranty already anyway! So I have to take this one apart due to (What I am thinking) is a bad powersupply now.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

The only thing that concerns is the GPU side. If that's the GPU cooler on the right hand side. Dunno, since I don't own a console anymore and never owned PS4.









~Ceadder


----------



## Domler

Back from the road trip. They were very nice. Happy to see me and the family. They said I could call or email and they would pull stock for me to pick up. New staff. I beleave the owner and his wife were there. There was also the lady who takes the phone and email orders. I also met the new modder. Can't remember his name, but knew his stuff and seemed pretty cool. He was excited to have the job. Kinda job I wish I had. Modding pcs for a living. Personally, not saying I won't use ppcs again, but it's nice having two options in the US. Plus, 45 min road trip and pick up parts I need is cool. There hoping to have the website back up in a week or two. All in all, I feel good and hope they can get back in good standings with the water community.
My wife wants to go back in two weeks, sounds good to me.
And I asked how much for the harbinger desk, not for sale. I know I have had my caselabs for three weeks, but hey, if they gonna sell it cheap, bye bye caslabs.


----------



## VSG

New staff including owner? So is Mark involved at all? What happened to the old staff?


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New staff including owner? So is Mark involved at all? What happened to the old staff?


Not sure what Mark looked like, but the one guy I remeber seeing there before, was there and seemed like he was in charge. Kinda putting 2 and 2 together. And the lady that was really nice, seemed like a wife promoting customer service. I could be completely wrong if he was the owner, but he was the only one I remember and seemed like he was calling the shots. Although he also seemed young. Pure speculation. All in all, I'll throu them some business. I work in the restaurant business and it's always good to have multiple sellers. Work them for the best price, and maybe only one has what your looking for. Never put all your eggs in one basket. Yada yada yada. They are open. Only taking phone or email orders till the site comes back up.

Just did a quick Google search. The guy I saw was not mark, and that was not his wife. The guy I saw was from the old staff.


----------



## Ceadderman

This the guy?












~Ceadder


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Think I could watercool this?
> 
> TCO


TCO, that's not the 20th anniversary PS4, is it?


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This the guy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No. That was not the guy I saw. The guy I did see was there before the "event". I did see marks name on the website saying site is down until further notice. I would say it's safe to say that he is involved with the shop. Im going to call and see if I can get a meeting with him the next time I go and I'll be honest. I and the community, your customers, would like to know..... what's up. A lot of people are mad for what happened to the employees, if that's what happened. We speak with our dollars. And if you want our money, you gotta give us something. So, the question is, do you want your business back?


----------



## Kastor16

Just joined the club last week. Pretty happy for my first attempt.

Once I replace my 670s with something worth the upgrade I'll be adding a rad to the front and put the new GPU in the loop.


----------



## Domler

Cool setup. I like it. Started the same way. Cpu.....now, s8 and thinking quad 360 rads. X99, overclock the heck out of it and blow up the house.
Side note, the power company called and said we were using too much power. I said I pay for it and I'll use it. Thank you. I kinda felt proud.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Nice clean runs!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Front panel painted and one test fan (an old GT) done as a test. Also first ek vardar on the paint booth. Notice that one fan in the front is in final color the other is the default vardar color. All in all seems like "Old Copper" is coming along.


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Cool setup. I like it. Started the same way. Cpu.....now, s8 and thinking quad 360 rads. X99, overclock the heck out of it and blow up the house.
> Side note, the power company called and said we were using too much power. I said I pay for it and I'll use it. Thank you. I kinda felt proud.


Go Solar or Wind Turbine and sell it back to them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can anyone do me a favor and overlay a Koolance 360 shroud over the white template pictured here?



The template is exactly 360x120.I traced 3 fans and cut it out of posterboard.

What am wanting to see is if I have enough space to mount the shroud to the bank of fans that are going there or if I have to come up with something else to cover them and the gaps that will be there after cutting my doors to fit them through. I'm wanting the shroud to cover from the front edge and the uppermost edge of the metal without going past it. So it should sit flush. I think I have the template sitting where the opening would be.









Apologies for my crappy phone pic.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

http://koolance.com/3-x-120mm-fan-radiator-shroud-black


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> http://koolance.com/3-x-120mm-fan-radiator-shroud-black


does this fit on 750D ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Much better pics!





And how the pumps are connected.


----------



## Gleniu

Final pictures of my X99 build. More photos in my build log.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

@Gleniu Nice build man! Super clean, however, is there only 2-240 rads? Seems like that wouldn't be enough for 2 cards in SLI and a CPU.... Front rad?


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> @Gleniu Nice build man! Super clean, however, is there only 2-240 rads? Seems like that wouldn't be enough for 2 cards in SLI and a CPU.... Front rad?


Thank you. Yes there is front rad, it's 3 x 240 total, fans are set below 1000 rpm. Enough for the HW setup - we have hot summer here this year (30-35 degrees Celsius sometime), but the cards and CPU stay below 50 while gaming (during winter/spring it was closer to 40). So for now it's fine. I could replace the top 240 with 480, but I don't need it now, I reused rads from my previous build.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> @Gleniu Nice build man! Super clean, however, is there only 2-240 rads? Seems like that wouldn't be enough for 2 cards in SLI and a CPU.... Front rad?


a 280 rad is enough to cool 3x Gainward 780GTX GLH plus a 3930k.

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?p=15834219&posted=1#post15834219


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> @Gleniu Nice build man! Super clean, however, is there only 2-240 rads? Seems like that wouldn't be enough for 2 cards in SLI and a CPU.... Front rad?
> 
> 
> 
> a 280 rad is enough to cool 3x Gainward 780GTX GLH plus a 3930k.
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?p=15834219&posted=1#post15834219
Click to expand...

I pull that link out a lot when I see silly rads being specced,very informative.
I found a PE 360 can handle a 5620 and a pair of 290s comfortably


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I pull that link out a lot when I see silly rads being specced,very informative.
> I found a PE 360 can handle a 5620 and a pair of 290s comfortably


well that makes me happy, as I am in the process of cooling a kingpin 780ti and a 3570k , with the option of adding a second 780ti sometime. If I every get a 1440p monitor


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I pull that link out a lot when I see silly rads being specced,very informative.
> I found a PE 360 can handle a 5620 and a pair of 290s comfortably


i love the link. i get tired of seeing people tell others they *need* 1080 of rad space to run a dual xfire/sli with a quad core set-up. sure you get better temps and less noise but it is *not* *needed*


----------



## deadwidesmile

Less noise is relative with more radiator space heh. More rads, more fans. Even at low rpm, just having more makes it louder.


----------



## El Scotch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Final pictures of my X99 build. More photos in my build log.


"What did you do today?"

"I took my computer for a walk in the park."


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I pull that link out a lot when I see silly rads being specced,very informative.
> I found a PE 360 can handle a 5620 and a pair of 290s comfortably
> 
> 
> 
> i love the link. i get tired of seeing people tell others they *need* 1080 of rad space to run a dual xfire/sli with a quad core set-up. sure you get better temps and less noise but it is *not* *needed*
Click to expand...

You should go on LTT....you get ridiculous estimates on there...


----------



## alpenwasser

Wait, I don't need a 560 in push/pull for every block I add to the loop? Dammit!









(okay, I do actually have way more rad space in my build than I technically need, but I have the space,
might as well use it)


----------



## timerwin63

I always thought the general rule was 120mm per block plus an extra 120. I guess that's not really true?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I always thought the general rule was 120mm per block plus an extra 120. I guess that's not really true?


240 for a single block, then another 120 per block extra


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> 240 for a single block, then another 120 per block extra


That's what I meant. The stuff people are posting makes that not really seem true, though


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I always thought the general rule was 120mm per block plus an extra 120. I guess that's not really true?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> 240 for a single block, then another 120 per block extra


Over the years I've seen both of these rules cited, so I guess it depends on who you ask. If I remember right,
B Neg's rig for the EKWB case modding competition had a 360 cooling two GPUs and a CPU and it seemed
to work just fine. Not sure what speed the fans were running at, but I doubt it was jet-noise levels.









I just put that much rad space in my rig because as said I have the space, plus I have the machine in my
bedroom running 24/7 at full load for BOINC, so I want to be able to turn down the fans as low as possible
(300~500 rpm if thinks work out). But yeah, seen a lot of people going pretty damn high in their estimates of
how much radage you really need.

EDIT: Also, I'd never say I _need_ as much rad space in my machine as I have. "I could, so I did.", basically.


----------



## X-Nine

There's a point of diminishing returns with rads. I have a 780 and my 4770k running off a single 240 EK XTX rad in push only on my itx rig, operating temp is between 26-30c depending on the room temp. I only have one other fan and its the exhaust fan.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> *There's a point of diminishing returns with rads.* I have a 780 and my 4770k running off a single 240 EK XTX rad in push only on my itx rig, operating temp is between 26-30c depending on the room temp. I only have one other fan and its the exhaust fan.


Couldn't agree more. Especially with GPUs/CPUs increasingly getting more efficient. It'll be "less rad!" instead of the well known "more rad!"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I always thought the general rule was 120mm per block plus an extra 120. I guess that's not really true?


It is because it will be a good balance for performance and noise. Its recommended for that purpose,being a nice all rounder and having headroom.

Fans were at 1100 RPM for the EKWB build btw.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> http://koolance.com/3-x-120mm-fan-radiator-shroud-black


Thanks. Not exactly what I was looking for but it will certainly help since there is a measurement to use that will allow me to center it up from the top of my fan banks.









For the 750D question, yes it will fit with proper modification. Mine are going to hang freely using quick studs. So I don't need to do much at all to imstall them being that my fans will be protruding enough to fit them on.









I know my Rads will be complete overkill for my current cooling needs but that's what one does when modding for ePeen at a LAN event.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Right now I know I have plenty of headroom on my loop as all I have blocked is the CPU/Board and a single 970, running dual 360 slim rads in push with a single d5 pump. Plan on adding a 2nd pump when I add another 970 to the loop. Also need to add my coolant temp sensor to the loop so I know what my fluid temps are


----------



## TheGovernment

Ive got 3 x 360s and a 340 for my 2 x sli 980ti and 5960x. Cards are running max bios, [email protected] 4.5ghz @ 1.33v. Cards have yet to be over 28c at 100% load for 15 hours and cpu maxes out at 42c full load for 15 hours. Although i have way too much, those temps are kickass.


----------



## Jasonbla20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Corsair is now selling Airflow front panels like that of the 450d for the 750d. on the website go to case parts and search for 750d. 15$


I actually have one. Look close and you'll see it


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fans were at 1100 RPM for the EKWB build btw.


Not bad, not bad at all.









Thanks for the info!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I always thought the general rule was 120mm per block plus an extra 120. I guess that's not really true?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> 240 for a single block, then another 120 per block extra


general rule as in "lower temps and less noise." it is in no way needed though. actually, the more heat you put in your loop, the better your rads work.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Ive got 3 x 360s and a 340 for my 2 x sli 980ti and 5960x. Cards are running max bios, [email protected] 4.5ghz @ 1.33v. Cards have yet to be over 28c at 100% load for 15 hours and cpu maxes out at 42c full load for 15 hours. Although i have way too much, those temps are kickass.


i wonder whats your ambient temp?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I pull that link out a lot when I see silly rads being specced,very informative.
> I found a PE 360 can handle a 5620 and a pair of 290s comfortably


I was taught that 120 of rad space per block + an extra 120 if OCing for breathing room was the rule of thumb


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I pull that link out a lot when I see silly rads being specced,very informative.
> I found a PE 360 can handle a 5620 and a pair of 290s comfortably
> 
> 
> 
> I was taught that 120 of rad space per block + an extra 120 if OCing for breathing room was the rule of thumb
Click to expand...

And it is still relevant for a good baseline for peoples expectation. I still recommend it as a good starting point.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can see running a single 240 for a 970&4790k as long as you have good fans and plan to stick with mild clocks it should be enough. I know the 970/980's are very efficient heat/power wise, and really can't wait to see the efficiency of SkyLake CPU's.


----------



## EpicOtis13

I just put up a Build Log for my new Rig *"Richard v.4"*. Go check it out, it should be pretty fun.

Here's a little teaser:


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i wonder whats your ambient temp?


18c and sometimes 17c, depends on the day and how much the AC has been running.

I also run a triple DDC setup, though that doesn't really make much difference. I've run it with 1 x 360 for a few days, temps were about 6c higher. I have plenty of space, got my DDC's for free.... I figured, why the hell not


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> 18c and sometimes 17c, depends on the day and how much the AC has been running.
> 
> I also run a triple DDC setup, though that doesn't really make much difference. I've run it with 1 x 360 for a few days, temps were about 6c higher. I have plenty of space, got my DDC's for free.... I figured, why the hell not


i think you have the best temps with the 5960x @1.33v and 980 sli underwater never saw before, 16-17c room temp must be freezing


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> 18c and sometimes 17c, depends on the day and how much the AC has been running.
> 
> I also run a triple DDC setup, though that doesn't really make much difference. I've run it with 1 x 360 for a few days, temps were about 6c higher. I have plenty of space, got my DDC's for free.... I figured, why the hell not


Proof or it never happened.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i think you have the best temps with the 5960x @1.33v and 980 sli underwater never saw before, 16-17c room temp must be freezing


To keep our upstairs cool, the ac is pretty much on 24/7, so the basement is pretty cold. its pretty much all windows upstairs. Plus i went so far as to divert the ac to blow directly into my top 2 rads since it was only 2 feet away.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> TCO, that's not the 20th anniversary PS4, is it?


Nah, A Launch Ed. I was the preorder guy









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

I am looking for a old tarnished copper look on the build "old copper". Here are some pics to show the difference between the finish with and without the spray of transparent matte varnish:




I also placed the blades prior to the aging effect gainst the finish rad to show the difference:



I am also considering using this for tube:


----------



## wermad

Steampunk theme???

How about some faux "rust" paint?
Quote:


>


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Steampunk theme???
> 
> How about some faux "rust" paint?


I like steampunk







But I am not taking this one that far. Just an old copper visual.


----------



## Brulf

So after a bit of mucking around with what seems to have been ph level issues with the water I have just decided to go with a premix and am just starting the sleeving and waiting for cable combs... just wondering if its to much green


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> So after a bit of mucking around with what seems to have been ph level issues with the water I have just decided to go with a premix and am just starting the sleeving and waiting for cable combs... just wondering if its to much green


Sure some leds would make a good effect.

The overlap, i think it would be better with out it (the tube and the GPU cable) + (Tubes on the PUMP).

peace


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Steampunk theme???
> 
> How about some faux "rust" paint?


Is there a build log for this pc ?


----------



## claclaclacla

hi ...
this is my liquid cooling system on the cosmos II, hope you like ...


----------



## fast_fate

HWLabs is about to announce the release of their much awaited Multi-Port SR2 radiators.....
which we first saw back at the end of May.
Grab a sneak peak of the retail version in the usual place


----------



## JLMS2010

Hi all. Quick question. I've only used D5 pump before. I was thinking of grabbing one of these for my sons build. Are they as quiet as a D5? It will be for 2x 240mm rads, CPU & GPU block.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Hi all. Quick question. I've only used D5 pump before. I was thinking of grabbing one of these for my sons build. Are they as quiet as a D5? It will be for 2x 240mm rads, CPU & GPU block.


They are not built like Laings. They're just cheap. And probably not as durable.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Oh Boy...These are gorgeous... SR2 multi port been released finally:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/07/27/get-in-line/



Now with 8 ports on the final retail version. Just


----------



## Ceadderman

8 ports?!?









~Ceadder


----------



## tatmMRKIV

With 5960x and an evo do i mount it "goofy"?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Oh Boy...These are gorgeous... SR2 multi port been released finally:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/07/27/get-in-line/
> 
> 
> 
> Now with 8 ports on the final retail version. Just


HWL.....still got it.

Thats an extra 6 BP or EK stoppers tho.....not cheap!


----------



## VSG

Stop plugs will be included with the rad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Stop plugs will be included with the rad.


No one wants those crap generic fittings man......no one......


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Stop plugs will be included with the rad.


Now I am officially in







with the sr2 MP









Don't known B. The ones included in the XSPC rads were very good looking. Let's see what HWlabs include in the box. Of course if comes like copper/brass shining thing that other brand include in their rads I am off









edit - From the look on those pics it seems they did not recede the ports on one side of the rad in the final version.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> HWL.....still got it.
> 
> Thats an extra 6 BP or EK stoppers tho.....not cheap!


I'll be very surprised if they don't ship with 6 stop plugs included.
The 6 port ES review sample had 4 of theses port plugs.
I found them to have an aggressive look that matched the paint finish very well


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Oh Boy...These are gorgeous... SR2 multi port been released finally:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/07/27/get-in-line/
> 
> 
> 
> Now with 8 ports on the final retail version. Just


AGREED









Cleaned the rads this weekend. Next weekend may actually get into some assembly...


----------



## VSG

Yeah I haven't seen the stop plugs myself but I know Will is a major stickler for looks as well so let's see. They could be the same ones that came with ER's preproduction sample actually now that I think about it.

Edit:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> HWL.....still got it.
> 
> Thats an extra 6 BP or EK stoppers tho.....not cheap!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be very surprised if they don't ship with 6 stop plugs included.
> The 6 port ES review sample had 4 of theses port plugs.
> I found them to have an aggressive look that matched the paint finish very well
Click to expand...

You miss the point,its not about whether stoppers are included,rather whether they will be worth a damn.....You dont replace the stoppers in a rig to match the rest?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> With 5960x and an evo do i mount it "goofy"?


Yes.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You miss the point,its not about whether stoppers are included,rather whether they will be worth a damn.....You dont replace the stoppers in a rig to match the rest?


The ones that are visible only, my wallet doesn't help satisfy the OCD


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> With 5960x and an evo do i mount it "goofy"?


mount it how ever it works best with your loop layout. You wont see a but a 1-2C difference. Just make sure in is really in so the jetplate works right.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You miss the point,its not about whether stoppers are included,rather whether they will be worth a damn.....You dont replace the stoppers in a rig to match the rest?


You're point is taken, though I suspect only a very small percentage will go to the extremes that some of us do to have every fitting match in their builds


----------



## Ceadderman

We need an OCD club.

I nominate B to be our fearless leader.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> They are not built like Laings. They're just cheap. And probably not as durable.


they are not "just cheap". they are sold cheap. they are every bit as durable as liang pumps.
they are built like a tank. the dcp 4.0 feels like a tank even. they are pretty damned good pumps.

as far as being quiet, the 2.2 should be. the 4.0 was for me. remember, quiet is subjective. everyone has a tolerance and threshold they try not to pass.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You miss the point,its not about whether stoppers are included,rather whether they will be worth a damn.....You dont replace the stoppers in a rig to match the rest?
> 
> 
> 
> You're point is taken, though I suspect only a very small percentage will go to the extremes that some of us do to have every fitting match in their builds
Click to expand...

I find this disturbing......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> We need an OCD club.
> 
> I nominate B to be our fearless leader.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Im not OCD........I think. I just like things to be 'correct'

And clean.....with no germs.....

Where did I put that hand sanitizer.......


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

If I ever post about my watercooling adventures, I'll try to put the whole post behind spoiler tags.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am looking for a old tarnished copper look on the build "old copper". Here are some pics to show the difference between the finish with and without the spray of transparent matte varnish:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also placed the blades prior to the aging effect gainst the finish rad to show the difference:
> 
> 
> 
> I am also considering using this for tube:


Not sure why. I was walking around Lowe's and for some reasons I thought of your build. Thought it might make a neat powers button.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Not sure why. I was walking around Lowe's and for some reasons I thought of your build. Thought it might make a neat powers button.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like the first one. Thanks for sharing this


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Grats B on your PC gamer Build of the week







http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-lumo/

if you did not notice my NES was there a few weeks ago







http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-nes-30/

*High Five*


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Grats B on your PC gamer Build of the week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-lumo/
> 
> if you did not notice my NES was there a few weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-nes-30/
> 
> *High Five*


A little old school flavor in there as well









http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-sleeper-case-gaming-rig/


----------



## Ceadderman

Excellent! Congrats B!









~Ceadder


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> A little old school flavor in there as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-sleeper-case-gaming-rig/


well I be damned grats to you too!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Grats B on your PC gamer Build of the week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-lumo/
> 
> if you did not notice my NES was there a few weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-nes-30/
> 
> *High Five*
Click to expand...

Ah yeah,thanks for that.


----------



## wermad

I'm surprised a few of you aren't grabbing your pitchforks and torches @HL for doing a mimic of the older multi-port rads (Thermaltake rage)?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm surprised a few of you aren't grabbing your pitchforks and torches @HL for doing a mimic of the older multi-port rads (Thermaltake rage)?


which rad are you talking about Wer? Can you post a pic?

on other news. Last fans for "Old Copper" are ready. I used two old Gts I have around. Found the eclips for it and used the ball bearings from another fans. Worked like a charm.



congratulations sinnedone, B neg and 8bitjunkie. 3 very different builds that deserve to be there on the spotlight.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> which rad are you talking about Wer? Can you post a pic?


Not sure if detects sarcasm


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not sure if detects sarcasm


Not at all mate. I am just unsure to what radiator you are referring to. I think is the multi port xspc. Just wanna be sure what rad you were talking about.

edit - BTW I will never use sarcasm unless is very clear (and consensual) we are joking about something. With no one, but specially with old blokes like you


----------



## snef

a build by @Kidam101
photo by snef



















and now UV


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Darn diamond plate is taking forever to get here. I have the house to my self for 2-3 days no wife or kids and no material to mod with.

What a bummer









still can start modding, just can't do the fun stuff.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm surprised a few of you aren't grabbing your pitchforks and torches @HL for doing a mimic of the older multi-port rads (Thermaltake rage)?


Vast difference between adding a few more ports for FUNCTIONALITY over swiping trade dress for plagiaristic profit making while claiming its all their design.....


----------



## SteezyTN

Can anyone help me out. I have the XSPC D5 pump and I ordered the bitspower D5 mod kit. When I took the cables out of their sockets to thread it though the mod kit base, I forgot which cable went into the correct socket. Do I have these right? I don't want to break the pump when it powers on haha





Do the colored wires match up with the correct placement? Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> which rad are you talking about Wer? Can you post a pic?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not sure if detects sarcasm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not at all mate. I am just unsure to what radiator you are referring to. I think is the multi port xspc. Just wanna be sure what rad you were talking about.
> 
> edit - BTW I will never use sarcasm unless is very clear (and consensual) we are joking about something. With no one, but specially with old blokes like you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Sorry, dry humor/sarcasm can be interrpreted many ways







. hm, I would say alphacool and xspc but I think TFC had multi port before these guys. There could be another one even before this.



edit:







psu keeps shutting down on me and now my router is done. Every time i type something, boom, power is off







. Gonna dig out my old back up unit for now as I await for Lepa support. Time for an AC router








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> a build by @Kidam101
> photo by snef
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now UV


Wow, awesome work. Pass along to kid for an excellent job.

Btw, Mark Hamill is my favorite Joker













Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone help me out. I have the XSPC D5 pump and I ordered the bitspower D5 mod kit. When I took the cables out of their sockets to thread it though the mod kit base, I forgot which cable went into the correct socket. Do I have these right? I don't want to break the pump when it powers on haha
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the colored wires match up with the correct placement? Thanks


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


okay thanks. So it looks like I have the CPU header pins backwoods. What about the molex?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sorry, dry humor/sarcasm can be interrpreted many ways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . hm, I would say alphacool and xspc but I think TFC had multi port before these guys. There could be another one even before this.
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> psu keeps shutting down on me and now my router is done. Every time i type something, boom, power is off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gonna dig out my old back up unit for now as I await for Lepa support. Time for an AC router
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, awesome work. Pass along to kid for an excellent job.
> 
> Btw, Mark Hamill is my favorite Joker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah ok wer so your point was about multi-ports in general. I thought you were talking about the old ex xspc multi-port that resemble the form and shape of the ports (raised) on hwlabs rads. I don't see quite the same way as you do on this however. Thermaltake photocopy a bunch of other brands products and cases and even claim was their own design. Multi-port however is just this adding several ports to rads for function sake. But that is just mine









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone help me out. I have the XSPC D5 pump and I ordered the bitspower D5 mod kit. When I took the cables out of their sockets to thread it though the mod kit base, I forgot which cable went into the correct socket. Do I have these right? I don't want to break the pump when it powers on haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the colored wires match up with the correct placement? Thanks


red is usually the 12 v lane on the molex connector so it seems correct. Color scheme for pwm pin out was posted by wer. However, be aware that sometimes manufacturers messed up the colors on pwm header (have seen happen before). My advice is search for images of your particular pump and manufacturer to be sure. In any case the pwm connector is less problematic I think since is just the tacho and pwm signal wires.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> okay thanks. So it looks like I have the CPU header pins backwoods. What about the molex?




Both middle pins are ground, just the 12v and 5v you gotta make sure are correct.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> okay thanks. So it looks like I have the CPU header pins backwoods. What about the molex?
Click to expand...

DO NOT follow this color code for the 4 pin connector.

Both the PWM D5 and the 35X both use BLUE for the tach signal, (pin 3) and green for the PWM line (pin4).

You have it correct in your first pic.

I keep it straight in my mind by thinking that it would seem normal to use green in place of the more common yellow for the tach line, since green and yellow are rather complimentary . . . except that it is actually just the opposite of what would seem intuitive.

The molex is correct as well.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

@SteezyTN Just checked my d5 PWM from Aquacomputer and Darlene, as usual, is correct. All of them have the green wire on the outside. A better pic of the xspc pwm also show the same:

https://www.caseking.de/xspc-d5-pwm-pumpe-ohne-front-cover-wapu-112.html


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> well I be damned grats to you too!


Thank you bud.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> a build by @Kidam101
> photo by snef
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now UV


Tell him those be some mighty fine runs he did there. Like the dual pump single res too.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone help me out. I have the XSPC D5 pump and I ordered the bitspower D5 mod kit. When I took the cables out of their sockets to thread it though the mod kit base, I forgot which cable went into the correct socket. Do I have these right? I don't want to break the pump when it powers on haha
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the colored wires match up with the correct placement? Thanks


Yeah go by the pin location not color of the wire. Different manufacturers will use different colors.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DO NOT follow this color code for the 4 pin connector.
> 
> Both the PWM D5 and the 35X both use BLUE for the tach signal, (pin 3) and green for the PWM line (pin4).
> 
> You have it correct in your first pic.
> 
> I keep it straight in my mind by thinking that it would seem normal to use green in place of the more common yellow for the tach line, since green and yellow are rather complimentary . . . except that it is actually just the opposite of what would seem intuitive.
> 
> The molex is correct as well.
> 
> Darlene


+1


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Both middle pins are ground, just the 12v and 5v you gotta make sure are correct.


Dang wer, giving out wrong info.







-1 for you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DO NOT follow this color code for the 4 pin connector.
> 
> Both the PWM D5 and the 35X both use BLUE for the tach signal, (pin 3) and green for the PWM line (pin4).
> 
> You have it correct in your first pic.
> 
> I keep it straight in my mind by thinking that it would seem normal to use green in place of the more common yellow for the tach line, since green and yellow are rather complimentary . . . except that it is actually just the opposite of what would seem intuitive.
> 
> The molex is correct as well.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks Darlene. Unlike Wer, +1 for you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @SteezyTN Just checked my d5 PWM from Aquacomputer and Darlene, as usual, is correct. All of them have the green wire on the outside. A better pic of the xspc pwm also show the same:
> 
> https://www.caseking.de/xspc-d5-pwm-pumpe-ohne-front-cover-wapu-112.html


Thank you as well









Okay, now I have another question for everyone. I have the Corsair link commander mini that I'll be using for my Vardar fans. 7 total (four 140 and three 120). Can I hook up my D5 PWM pump to it as well? Meaning would that take me over the 4Amps, or would there not even be power coming from it since its powered via molex?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Dang wer, giving out wrong info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -1 for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Darlene. Unlike Wer, +1 for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, now I have another question for everyone. I have the Corsair link commander mini that I'll be using for my Vardar fans. 7 total (four 140 and three 120). Can I hook up my D5 PWM pump to it as well? Meaning would that take me over the 4Amps, or would there not even be power coming from it since its powered via molex?


If you are ever in doubt about this, and you should avoid using color as a guide anyway, just pop the back of the pump off and look where the wires come from. The power wires are labled at their solder points and the pwm and rpm wires are soldered to specific points.

The pwm pump won't add to the power limit of the controller. That is the whole point of having separate plugs.

Edit: Actually, i was sure they were labled but they aren't. The ground wire is the one above the coil of wire on the back of the small pcb the large capacitor and the thick power wires are soldered to.


The rpm wire connects to the pad on the left with numbers above it. The pwm connects to the round pad just to the bottom left of the arrows and the triangle of solder pads that the speed dial is normally soldered to.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you are ever in doubt about this, and you should avoid using color as a guide anyway, just pop the back of the pump off and look where the wires come from. The power wires are labled at their solder points and the pwm and rpm wires are soldered to specific points.
> 
> The pwm pump won't add to the power limit of the controller. That is the whole point of having separate plugs.


thanks. And looks like I can avoid FanXPert







now I'll be controlling rpm on my pump(s) via Corsair link.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Dang wer, giving out wrong info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -1 for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Darlene. Unlike Wer, +1 for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you as well


That molex is correct. the pwm is the one that's different. I didn't realize the pumps were wired *colored* differently then the common pwm fans







. If in doubt, check your manual! Something that has eluded you in your quest to build something









Edit:

Quote:


> The common cooling fans used in computers use standardized connectors with two to four pins. The first two pins are always used to deliver power to the fan motor, while the rest can be optional, depending on fan design and type:
> 
> Ground
> Power - nominally +12 V, though it may be variable depending on fan type and desired fan rotation speed
> Sense output from fan - outputs a signal that pulses twice for each rotation of the fan as a pulse train, frequency being proportional to speed.
> Control input - a pulse-width modulation (PWM) signal, which gives the ability to adjust the rotation speed on the fly without changing the input voltage delivered to the cooling fan.
> *The color of the wires connected to these pins varies* depending on the number of connectors, but the role of each pin is standardized and guaranteed to be the same on any system. Cooling fans equipped with either two- or three-pin connectors are usually designed to accept a wide range of input voltages, which directly affects the rotation speed of the blades.


source

So, there's no standard for color. Only the operation of each wire. I just looked at some old pwm fans and they have orange instead of blue or green.

This is the formfactor spec circa 2005



Its an easy mistake if you're not familiar with it. Thanks to Dar for the correction as I know she is very knowledgeable in this area.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Old copper is progressing. One Vardar is done too:




and the first tubes:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you are ever in doubt about this, and you should avoid using color as a guide anyway, just pop the back of the pump off and look where the wires come from. The power wires are labled at their solder points and the pwm and rpm wires are soldered to specific points.
> 
> The pwm pump won't add to the power limit of the controller. That is the whole point of having separate plugs.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks. And looks like I can avoid FanXPert
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I'll be controlling rpm on my pump(s) via Corsair link.
Click to expand...

What brand is your PWM D5?

Be aware that it may or may not work with the Corsair Link, . . . .

And if it does work, it may or may not respond to the PWM range that it's spec'd to.

Corsair's PWM fans, at least the ones I've worked with, have a notoriously low internal pullup voltage on the PWM line, and if the controller has an internal pullup so it will work with devices that don't, (though don't expect it to) it could be lower than the Intel standard as well, so that while the pump should max rpm at about 75% duty cycle, it may take more.

Alternatively, the controller may not have any internal pullup, (like the Aquaero doesn't have) and then it won't control the PWM D5's at all, well except for the new one from Aquacomputer they made for the Aquaero.

It should work OK for your Varders, but the D5 may well be iffy.

When you test it out, let us know, and listen for any high pitched whine.

I couldn't find any specs on what frequency they use for the PWM, 25KHz is the Intel Standard, but somehow, I keep thinking that at some time in the past, they were using 11KHz for their proprietary PWM stuff.

Keep us posted

Darlene


----------



## wermad

Missed a few posts, internet has been crappy and psu is needing rma







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thanks. Not exactly what I was looking for but it will certainly help since there is a measurement to use that will allow me to center it up from the top of my fan banks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the 750D question, yes it will fit with proper modification. Mine are going to hang freely using quick studs. So I don't need to do much at all to imstall them being that my fans will be protruding enough to fit them on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know my Rads will be complete overkill for my current cooling needs but that's what one does when modding for ePeen at a LAN event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well, you can always just make a mockup w/ some cardboard or construction paper.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Final pictures of my X99 build. More photos in my build log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is awesome and I love to see another build w/ traditional tube.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> So after a bit of mucking around with what seems to have been ph level issues with the water I have just decided to go with a premix and am just starting the sleeving and waiting for cable combs... just wondering if its to much green


Another traditional tube build and w/ green!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Is there a build log for this pc ?


Its a pic I found online, looks like sample pics from a shop selling the paint. If it comes from a build, its probably using this brand of paint.

http://customcreationpaints.co.uk/Rustique-Spray-on-Rust-Effect-Paint
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Hi all. Quick question. I've only used D5 pump before. I was thinking of grabbing one of these for my sons build. Are they as quiet as a D5? It will be for 2x 240mm rads, CPU & GPU block.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> They are not built like Laings. They're just cheap. And probably not as durable.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> they are not "just cheap". they are sold cheap. they are every bit as durable as liang pumps.
> they are built like a tank. the dcp 4.0 feels like a tank even. they are pretty damned good pumps.
> 
> as far as being quiet, the 2.2 should be. the 4.0 was for me. remember, quiet is subjective. everyone has a tolerance and threshold they try not to pass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Jingways are very under-rated due to the popularity of D5's and DDC pumps. its a good all-around pump. If you don't have plans to dress it up or push through a massive amount of blocks, it does the trick. I had one running two gpu blocks and a second one running through mb block and cpu. One could have done all four blocks with no issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Grats B on your PC gamer Build of the week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-lumo/
> 
> if you did not notice my NES was there a few weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-nes-30/
> 
> *High Five*


Congrats BNegative







I remember the old days of high stacks of PC Gamer in my room. always patiently waiting for the next issue to arrive so I can sample the demos on them. I cancelled my subscription when i went to college and mainly due to the change of staff and content had thinned out (damn you xbox and ps1!!!!). Lumo has always had awesome color combo








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Vast difference between adding a few more ports for FUNCTIONALITY over swiping trade dress for plagiaristic profit making while claiming its all their design.....


Unfortunately, if you don't do anything to protect your ideas/designs initially, it opens up the market for others to come in. Its still a business but morally, it creates tensions in the industry, consumers, and fans (and lots of pr attention). I do recall some moans when xspc launched their multi port rads and ppl siting alphacool influence (back then, there wasn't much alpha hate). Just saying, if you're gonna hate, lets do it all the time. This isn't a site devoted to one brand imho. Since there is so much hate for TT, I just dub any hate towards a brand/product as "Thermaltake hate". I guess its synonymous









@ Gabe, not singling you out since you posted the pic. Actually, I saw the rads on another site and while i was going through the posts I missed, I saw your post (after my initial post). Not personal mate


----------



## Ceadderman

I feel so ghetto right now.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel so ghetto right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll up the ghetto'ness for yah











Had to "downgrade" to 1440 to run off the hdmi on the mb. 4k -> wqhd







. G1600 needs rma but I'm glad both Vesuvius' are working properly. Think I'm going w/ dual psu's again. I'm not too trusting of the multi rails of the Lepa.

Also, found one fan deep inside this beast rattling occasionally. This next month will be funs


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What brand is your PWM D5?
> 
> Be aware that it may or may not work with the Corsair Link, . . . .
> 
> And if it does work, it may or may not respond to the PWM range that it's spec'd to.
> 
> Corsair's PWM fans, at least the ones I've worked with, have a notoriously low internal pullup voltage on the PWM line, and if the controller has an internal pullup so it will work with devices that don't, (though don't expect it to) it could be lower than the Intel standard as well, so that while the pump should max rpm at about 75% duty cycle, it may take more.
> 
> Alternatively, the controller may not have any internal pullup, (like the Aquaero doesn't have) and then it won't control the PWM D5's at all, well except for the new one from Aquacomputer they made for the Aquaero.
> 
> It should work OK for your Varders, but the D5 may well be iffy.
> 
> When you test it out, let us know, and listen for any high pitched whine.
> 
> I couldn't find any specs on what frequency they use for the PWM, 25KHz is the Intel Standard, but somehow, I keep thinking that at some time in the past, they were using 11KHz for their proprietary PWM stuff.
> 
> Keep us posted
> 
> Darlene


I'll let you all know. I won't be too worried if it doesn't work though because I could also be fine running them off the PWM CPU header on my ASUS Maximus VI Hero. And oh, it's an XSPC D5 PWM pump (photon 270 pump combo)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'll up the ghetto'ness for yah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Had to "downgrade" to 1440* to run off the hdmi on the mb. 4k -> wqhd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . G1600 needs rma but I'm glad both Vesuvius' are working properly. Think I'm going w/ dual psu's again. I'm not too trusting of the multi rails of the Lepa.
> 
> Also, found one fan deep inside this beast rattling occasionally. This next month will be funs


Downgrade.









Werm, We are here for you. I could spare a 120mm Corsair Fan if need be from the 750D.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Downgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Werm, We are here for you. I could spare a 120mm Corsair Fan if need be from the 750D.
> 
> TCO


Lol, I'm good. The pain will come in draining and removing the rads to get to the fan in question. Psu is the biggest issue right now for me. Its just a tall order to power these 295x2's. But man, do these guys rock in 4k! I'm gonna work on the wiring as well and I also have to redo the second system (It don't like the sammy monitor, even in 1080). Might just get a haswell board and a g3258 as this will be my little girl's "starter" rig.

Yeah, its just so weird staring at my monitor in wqhd....







. It's like having 1080 for years and then going back to 480









edit: would love an ax1500 or EVGA 1600 but they're too long and will block the fans. G1600 is on of the shorter high wattage units out there but having multiple rails can be a chore sometimes. Rather have the plug and play of single rail units.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, I'm good. The pain will come in draining and removing the rads to get to the fan in question. Psu is the biggest issue right now for me. Its just a tall order to power these 295x2's. But man, do these guys rock in 4k! I'm gonna work on the wiring as well and I also have to redo the second system (It don't like the sammy monitor, even in 1080). Might just get a haswell board and a g3258 as this will be my little girl's "starter" rig.
> 
> *
> Yeah, its just so weird staring at my monitor in wqhd*....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It's like having 1080 for years and then going back to 480
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: would love an ax1500 or EVGA 1600 but they're too long and will block the fans. G1600 is on of the shorter high wattage units out there but having multiple rails can be a chore sometimes. Rather have the plug and play of single rail units.


I will assume you are just referring to 1440p. Not to hip with Monitor analogies and whatnots. I just know that at some point, you will come across a monitor that makes you









I've got that 1300w EVGA G2 in the SMA8 and would have to agree that they are a tad longer than needed.

TCO


----------



## wermad

wqhd: 2560x1440(/1600)

Yeah, I could go for a couple of evga units but length against comes into play. I'll need at least one short one (under 170mm) to clear the rad and the other I wanna keep it under 200mm to avoid blocking the fans. As huge as the TX10 is, it can get congested pretty quick with wc shenanigans,


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> wqhd: 2560x1440(/1600)
> 
> Yeah, I could go for a couple of evga units but length against comes into play. I'll need at least one short one (under 170mm) to clear the rad and the other I wanna keep it under 200mm to avoid blocking the fans. As huge as the TX10 is, it can get congested pretty quick with wc shenanigans,


Please, Have some Massive Atttack to Calm the Nerves.


Spoiler: Angel











From my Favorite Movie.



Because Really, Who doesn't need some dope music while they work on watercooling gear?









TCO


----------



## wermad

DI.fm (before they forced you to have an account







):

channels:

epic trance

or

classic trance

(no vocal, edm crap!)

Other then that, I may sound really weird, but I like to *listen* to sports documentaries (youtube) or nature documentaries while working on my rig. And I end up learning something as well


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Whaaaat. Vocal trance is great!

I DJ trance a little bit. Try to put out a mix every week if I'm not too busy or too busy gaming







I like uplifting and all, but I'm starting to get into harder trance like tech trance -> Jordan Suckley, David Gravell, etc.

PM me if you wanna hear some of my mixes. Not sure if I'm allowed to post my Mixcloud here.


----------



## Ceadderman

In the evenings I listen to KNBR am680.

Giants and 49ers while I am working on my build. Love that 50k watt station, but only comes in from 9pm to 6-7am due to atmospheric interference. I need a worldband radio.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Other then that, I may sound really weird, but I like to *listen* to *sports documentaries (youtube)* or nature documentaries while working on my rig. And I end up learning something as well


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> In the evenings I listen to KNBR am680.
> 
> *Giants and 49ers while I am working on my build*. Love that 50k watt station, but only comes in from 9pm to 6-7am due to atmospheric interference. I need a worldband radio.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder












What... the....

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

I am old. Well 46 ain't old per se. I still have metric crapton of mp3s on my system. But while it's down for Modding I listen to the AM band and get Giants after midnight and when it's Football season I get the 9ers. Ducks sometimes cause I am a Lakers fan too. At least the Dubs represented for the West this year.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

I've always had a nagging to learn things and hence why I got in to pc's since I was in 5th grade (long time ago in the 90s, hammer time!). So, I enjoy listening to documentaries while I'm wrenching away at the rig.

I can't listen to live sports, especially fooseball. With the Chargers leaving (and I'm hoping the raiders come down here) and the Padres sucking, there's really no real reason to listen to live sports down here. I have lost faith in humanity now











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Whaaaat. Vocal trance is great!
> 
> I DJ trance a little bit. Try to put out a mix every week if I'm not too busy or too busy gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like uplifting and all, but I'm starting to get into harder trance like tech trance -> Jordan Suckley, David Gravell, etc.
> 
> PM me if you wanna hear some of my mixes. Not sure if I'm allowed to post my Mixcloud here.


Vocals in trance...it just doesn't do it for me. I end up tagging the songs I like off DI.fm and then purchase them (yeah, I actually do that) via amazon. I got a small collection of recent stuff, but I kept a ton of the stuff and lost a quite a bit of the 90s and early 2000s stuff. I did found a couple of chaps a few years backi liked but I haven't seen much with them recently (Stoneface and Terminal).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I am old. Well *46* ain't old per se. I still have metric crapton of mp3s on my system. But while it's down for Modding I listen to the AM band and get Giants after midnight and when it's Football season I get the 9ers. Ducks sometimes cause I am a Lakers fan too. At least the Dubs represented for the West this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I almost feel that number is going to come quick for me. ( 27 this Month)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've always had a nagging to learn things and hence why I got in to pc's since I was in 5th grade (long time ago in the 90s, hammer time!). So, I enjoy listening to documentaries while I'm wrenching away at the rig.
> 
> I can't listen to live sports, especially fooseball. With the Chargers leaving (and I'm hoping the raiders come down here) and the Padres sucking, there's really no real reason to listen to live sports down here. I have lost faith in humanity now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vocals in trance...it just doesn't do it for me. *I end up tagging the songs I like off DI.fm and then purchase them (yeah, I actually do that) via amazon*. I got a small collection of recent stuff, but I kept a ton of the stuff and lost a quite a bit of the 90s and early 2000s stuff. I did found a couple of chaps a few years backi liked but I haven't seen much with them recently (Stoneface and Terminal).










I Like how you added that in here. I sail the ship time to time.

TCO

Anyone Jam Underoath in here? Used to love that band.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've always had a nagging to learn things and hence why I got in to pc's since I was in 5th grade (long time ago in the 90s, hammer time!). So, I enjoy listening to documentaries while I'm wrenching away at the rig.
> 
> I can't listen to live sports, especially fooseball. With the Chargers leaving (and I'm hoping the raiders come down here) and the Padres sucking, there's really no real reason to listen to live sports down here. I have lost faith in humanity now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Whaaaat. Vocal trance is great!
> 
> I DJ trance a little bit. Try to put out a mix every week if I'm not too busy or too busy gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like uplifting and all, but I'm starting to get into harder trance like tech trance -> Jordan Suckley, David Gravell, etc.
> 
> PM me if you wanna hear some of my mixes. Not sure if I'm allowed to post my Mixcloud here.
> 
> 
> 
> Vocals in trance...it just doesn't do it for me. I end up tagging the songs I like off DI.fm and then purchase them (yeah, I actually do that) via amazon. I got a small collection of recent stuff, but I kept a ton of the stuff and lost a quite a bit of the 90s and early 2000s stuff. I did found a couple of chaps a few years backi liked but I haven't seen much with them recently (Stoneface and Terminal).
Click to expand...

Madres...









J/K werm. I feel your pain. But the season is long and the Blahgers will fall flat on their faces.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Meh, with all due respect to the late-great Mr Padres, the team sucks. I've never had interest other then just to avoid the crappy news the Chargers don't want to stay in SD.

Back to wc!

Found my new brief case...now to fit a 295x2 for those lan events


----------



## Ceadderman

What the heck is that werm?









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Silverstone rvz02 ml08.

http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607&area=en


----------



## Ceadderman

Watercool that puppy.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I think Lian Li makes something very similar


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Silverstone rvz02
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/news/silverstone-raven-rvz02-closer-look,28376.html


Nah I'm pretty sure it's an ML08

http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607&area=en


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Nah I'm pretty sure it's an ML08
> 
> http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607&area=en


Quote:


> *Based on the excellent RAVEN Z RVZ02 chassis, the Milo ML08 is a super slim Mini-ITX console case with highly capable accommodations.* With a volume of only 12 liters, this case is small yet easy to assemble when compared to other slim cases in the same class. There is plenty of room for a powerful graphics card up to 13 inches in length while tool-less drive cages make assembly quicker than ever. With clever space utilization and engineering, two major heat sources are separated via the chassis' main chamber so CPU and graphics card can each have their own airflow path. Despite its diminutive size, the ML08 is a remarkably versatile case that can be used anywhere from being a compact desktop workstation (in vertical orientation) to a living console or HTPC (in horizontal orientation). There are even optional models of ML08 with integrated handle, making them effortlessly portable and perfect for any slim PC build.


hmmm...looks like the pics got crossed, you're right. pic is milo, rvz02:

http://silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ02&area=en&top=C



edit: well, that's what you get when using tom's as a source


----------



## ozzy1925

i run my pumps at %100 then lower rpms when the res cap is off after %100 again , tighten res cap , run the sytem for 4 days but the water level still going up and down. When i turn off my pc water wants to go out from the res.
Here is the video pumps %100 and %50




Do you guys think i still have air in the system or ?


----------



## crafty615

Got my parts for my first watercooling build!!




Check out my desk build log for the pc









Water cooled Desk


----------



## MadHatter5045

I'm finished bending the tubes, everything leak tested A.OK







and now the Blitz part 2 is running!


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am old. Well *46* ain't old per se. I still have metric crapton of mp3s on my system. But while it's down for Modding I listen to the AM band and get Giants after midnight and when it's Football season I get the 9ers. Ducks sometimes cause I am a Lakers fan too. At least the Dubs represented for the West this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost feel that number is going to come quick for me. ( 27 this Month)
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've always had a nagging to learn things and hence why I got in to pc's since I was in 5th grade (long time ago in the 90s, hammer time!). So, I enjoy listening to documentaries while I'm wrenching away at the rig.
> 
> I can't listen to live sports, especially fooseball. With the Chargers leaving (and I'm hoping the raiders come down here) and the Padres sucking, there's really no real reason to listen to live sports down here. I have lost faith in humanity now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vocals in trance...it just doesn't do it for me. *I end up tagging the songs I like off DI.fm and then purchase them (yeah, I actually do that) via amazon*. I got a small collection of recent stuff, but I kept a ton of the stuff and lost a quite a bit of the 90s and early 2000s stuff. I did found a couple of chaps a few years backi liked but I haven't seen much with them recently (Stoneface and Terminal).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Like how you added that in here. I sail the ship time to time.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Anyone Jam Underoath in here? Used to love that band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Yea back in high school... LoL they're old now. Not even around anymore right? I listen to We Came As Romans now...they're pretty good. And some edm.


----------



## Nornam

Just a Little Triple Loveliness to be going on with







.... (Just wish the blocks covered the whole GPU PC board rather than stopping ¾ of the way there like







..)

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/Namron500/media/NEW 2011-3 BUILD/3 gpus blocked up ready.jpg.html

http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/N...3 BUILD/3 back plates fitted to gpus.jpg.html

So!!!..... After I mentioned a while back now about trying to fit the 980 blocks & how I wasn't sure whether I would be able to manage it..... Well... As you can see I did manage to fit them







... Took me 2 two & half days lol, But I got there in the end, It wasn't without some struggle for me at times & the pain in my neck & shoulder kept me from doing it any quicker or easier.

But I'm Chuffed to bits that I got the little suckers done & It means it's one less thing that needs doing when Me Old Mucker Mr B comes a visiting to help with the builds....







....

Nam......


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Just a Little Triple Loveliness to be going on with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... (*Just wish the blocks covered the whole GPU PC board rather than stopping ¾ of the way there like*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..)
> 
> Nam......


I know what you mean, my 970 strix block only goes to like half it seems


----------



## VSG

So I saw these things at the Modder's Inc booth at Quakecon:



















Sorry about the pics, the whole place was quite dark. These are some reservoirs from the upcoming reservoir line up from Monsoon Cooling. The setup is supposedly all modular allowing one to use different color/length tubes, cathode tube inserts, different color metal rods outside, D5 top or port tops and so on. The overall look is similar to their chaingun fittings, and these seemed to be really well built and solid. No info on pricing or release dates yet.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I know what you mean, my 970 strix block only goes to like half it seems


Aye.... It bugs me somewhat as most places advertise most as FULL Cover Blocks?...... How only going ¾ of the way is a Full Cover I have no idea but there you go.... That's what you get







.....

Nam......


----------



## VSG

Full cover vs full length are two separate things


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Yea back in high school... LoL they're old now. Not even around anymore right? I listen to We Came As Romans now...they're pretty good. And some edm.


I've seen We Came as Romans a couple times in Seattle while I was stationed there, Emmure Is still one of my Favs









Actually Jamming Emmure right now with some Coffee. I love my Days off!

@geggeg Those Reservoirs could compliment a steampunkish theme, I have seen something Similar already though....

I Thought @sinnedone had something in his build that kinda looked like those Reservoirs, not coloured though.

TCO


----------



## Kritikill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> From my Favorite Movie.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


"You take sugar?" "No thank you, Turkish; I'm sweet enough."

Have you watched "Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels"? I like that one also, Guy makes some pretty good movies.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Full cover vs full length are two separate things


Don't all manufacturers list them as full cover? I would imagine it would be easy to get confused. Only way to really tell is to find a pic of them installed to see what is/isn't covered.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kritikill*
> 
> "You take sugar?" "No thank you, Turkish; I'm sweet enough."
> 
> Have you watched "Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels"? I like that one also, Guy makes some pretty good movies.


I own all of the Series, Lock Stock, Snatch, and Layer Cake









"How Long on them Sausages Charlie? "Two Miniutes Turkish" You said 2 min, 5 min AGO! "

TCO


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I own all of the Series, Lock Stock, Snatch, and Layer Cake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "How Long on them Sausages Charlie? "Two Miniutes Turkish" You said 2 min, 5 min AGO! "
> 
> TCO


"It's too tight."
"Too tight? You could land a jumbo jet in that."
How great to see other people who love this movie


----------



## tatmMRKIV

https://youtu.be/naGOZoHxA-I

Best part of lock stock


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I own all of the Series, Lock Stock, Snatch, and Layer Cake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "How Long on them Sausages Charlie? "Two Miniutes Turkish" You said 2 min, 5 min AGO! "
> 
> TCO


You forgot Rockin' Rolla lol

Great movies all together, still Boris is one of my favorite characters


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I know what you mean, my 970 strix block only goes to like half it seems


Look into BitsPower's Strix block for the 970, I'm trying to find a 2nd one now (DazMode was the only shop to carry them too) if I don't snag a 980 Classy


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You forgot Rockin' Rolla lol
> 
> Great movies all together, still Boris is one of my favorite characters


Boris the Bullet Dodger? Why do they Call him Boris the Bullet Dodger? "Avi, It's because he Dodges Bullets"










TCO


----------



## willemdoom

"Do you know what nemesis means?"


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Look into BitsPower's Strix block for the 970, I'm trying to find a 2nd one now (DazMode was the only shop to carry them too) if I don't snag a 980 Classy


I already opened my EK block, so it's alright. But that does look really nice... Might get one when I get a second 970


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> "It's too tight."
> "Too tight? You could land a jumbo jet in that."
> How great to see other people who love this movie


That one is priceless. Another from the same part: Tyrone "It is a funny angle"







It is behind you Tyrone...Whenever you reverse things come from behind you


----------



## deadwidesmile

"whiuekrthewktjsekj s hkesjrhjse skejh kesrkjshekjrhserksejh hqweolipa;sdmn e erjhkekljrn" - Brad Pitt in Snatch.

Acrylic or PETG?! I'm really wondering if I want to go hard line in the Core X9. I'm generally a traditionalist when it comes to tubing and love soft tubing but this case is so long it's hard to get the runs to not look like absolute crap.


----------



## Ceadderman

^PETG if you're gonna be moving your system a bit. Also heard it's easier to work with than Acrylic. Won't know til I get mine.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I saw these things at the Modder's Inc booth at Quakecon:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the pics, the whole place was quite dark. These are some reservoirs from the upcoming reservoir line up from Monsoon Cooling. The setup is supposedly all modular allowing one to use different color/length tubes, cathode tube inserts, different color metal rods outside, D5 top or port tops and so on. The overall look is similar to their chaingun fittings, and these seemed to be really well built and solid. No info on pricing or release dates yet.


Dese guys...









Completely miss the Watercooling Pr0n over a movie reference nostalgic walk through the kiddie pool.

Monsoon, I hate you so much right now. Thought I was finished formulating a plan for Darkside and *BAM!* look what I have to contend with now.









If they have DDC base I may have a difficult time with my wallet.









Lock Stock was good.







7 heads in a Duffle Bag was better. Joe Pesci is well...









~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

Leak testing the bench table since yesterday, no pressure drop after 21h ish.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Leak testing the bench table since yesterday, no pressure drop after 21h ish.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


good to go then







More then enough time


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> good to go then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More then enough time


Yup, now I have two choices, either I wait for the longer screws for my rads (those provided by EK being too short, maintaining the rad with only 1 thread or so) or put something underneath those rads to make sure the added weight with the water doesn't make a disaster.


----------



## emsj86

. Cell phone teaser.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I saw these things at the Modder's Inc booth at Quakecon:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the pics, the whole place was quite dark. These are some reservoirs from the upcoming reservoir line up from Monsoon Cooling. The setup is supposedly all modular allowing one to use different color/length tubes, cathode tube inserts, different color metal rods outside, D5 top or port tops and so on. The overall look is similar to their chaingun fittings, and these seemed to be really well built and solid. No info on pricing or release dates yet.


Ohhh please tell me there's a semi-smoked tube available.... Would potentially look rather lovely with the orange/copper rods, and a d5 mounted to it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Leak testing the bench table since yesterday, no pressure drop after 21h ish.


EasyXL I'm guessing? Gorgeous benching setup.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am looking for a old tarnished copper look on the build "old copper". Here are some pics to show the difference between the finish with and without the spray of transparent matte varnish:


Not sure about price and availability of paint in your area, but if you take a midcoat clear and mix it 1:1 with the appropriate reducer, you have a carrier base for pigment to make your own custom paint. My suggestion would be 25 grams of copper pearl pigment per two liters for your base and 5 grams per two liters of something like this to make a candy. Of course, that requires you have a compressor and HVLP gun.

Not to say your paint job doesn't look good, it looks great. I just wanted to give you ideas if you ever decided to re-shoot your paint.


----------



## Ceadderman

Found a decent HVLP turbine and gun kit at Home Depot for $100. I am all over it this month.









Then I can spray my case and internal panels with that PD paint job I plan to do while it's still Summer









~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> EasyXL I'm guessing? Gorgeous benching setup.


Easy V3.0 actually. Thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well...HeretEK is packed up and off to its new home at EKWB HQ....

Always sad to see a build go off to it's new home.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I saw these things at the Modder's Inc booth at Quakecon:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the pics, the whole place was quite dark. These are some reservoirs from the upcoming reservoir line up from Monsoon Cooling. The setup is supposedly all modular allowing one to use different color/length tubes, cathode tube inserts, different color metal rods outside, D5 top or port tops and so on. The overall look is similar to their chaingun fittings, and these seemed to be really well built and solid. No info on pricing or release dates yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Ohhh please tell me there's a semi-smoked tube available.... Would potentially look rather lovely with the orange/copper rods, and a d5 mounted to it!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Leak testing the bench table since yesterday, no pressure drop after 21h ish.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *EasyXL I'm guessing?* Gorgeous benching setup.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> EasyXL I'm guessing? Gorgeous benching setup.
> 
> 
> 
> *Easy V3.0 actually.* Thanks
Click to expand...

The Easy XL is majorly XL . . . . as in huge.

I have 420 SR1's in PP on each side, and still have dual PSUs in between:

The V3 is a really nice setup when you have to be space conscious.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Easy XL is majorly XL . . . . as in huge.
> 
> I have 420 SR1's in PP on each side, and still have dual PSUs in between:
> 
> The V3 is a really nice setup when you have to be space conscious.


Oh wow, that is pretty large, but I'm guessing they're fairly useful? ^_^


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^PETG if you're gonna be moving your system a bit. Also heard it's easier to work with than Acrylic. Won't know til I get mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dese guys...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completely miss the Watercooling Pr0n over a movie reference nostalgic walk through the kiddie pool.
> 
> Monsoon, I hate you so much right now. Thought I was finished formulating a plan for Darkside and *BAM!* look what I have to contend with now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they have DDC base I may have a difficult time with my wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lock Stock was good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7 heads in a Duffle Bag was better. Joe Pesci is well...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Supposedly it won't be out till 2016 according to a vid I saw on tek syndicate's channel.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Easy XL is majorly XL . . . . as in huge.
> 
> I have 420 SR1's in PP on each side, and still have dual PSUs in between:
> 
> The V3 is a really nice setup when you have to be space conscious.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh wow, that is pretty large, but I'm guessing they're fairly useful? ^_^
Click to expand...

I'm pretty happy with it, I have this one and a "Mini".

I added some coolant connectivity along the rear of the XL, so that it's easier to accommodate different cooling setups.

Makes it pretty handy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

My old Easy/Hard.....



This one has experiment Mayhems Chameleon it it,this build must be getting on for 4 years old now....

It was a beast tho,2 360 GTX's with 38mm Kazes,bloody loud but AWESOME cooling potential.

Nice....if a bit wobbly. Still got all the DICE/LN2 mounts and pot still......I think.

I know I still have the mount as it fell out of the 'spares' cupboard on to me last week


----------



## 8bitjunkie

test bench time!!

http://imgur.com/RC4dJcS


----------



## DarthBaggins

Think I would need a chiller at this ambient temp (currently at my shop)


----------



## 8bitjunkie

progress









will post next when finished
http://imgur.com/EqtpsyO


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm pretty disappointed in my current setup in my 750D case. These are my temps after a few minutes of gaming. Water temps, not hardware temps.



I have a 4770k @ stock and two Titan X's running at 1430Mhz @ 1.237v and 1.174v. My three radiators are an RX360, RX240 and EX240. My pump is a D5 Vario via XSPC Photon 170 at level 5. I'm using all SP120 QE and they are running at max around 1400 RPM.

Ambient temps are about 23-24c. I just don't understand how temps are this high. My two Titans are running at about 55c.

I see so many builds out there with hot components completely overvolted and water temps don't even hit 35c with one or two radiators. Am I doing something completely wrong?

I should get my CL SMA8 in 2-3 weeks. I'll be dropping my EX240, and I'll be using an RX480, RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. All fans will be the SP120 QE, except the 560GTS and RX360 which will be using all EK Vardars. Do you all think I will get lower temps? I'll also be using 2 pumps maybe.


----------



## emsj86

Of course you will your adding more rad space


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Of course you will your adding more rad space


But I mean significant temps. Like water temp drops of 5-10c? I just think it's ridiculous how my temps are so high. 55c on my Titans is so bad. Hell, it's only 20c under what it'd be on air.


----------



## emsj86

Id try taking off your gpu oc and see if there is a good difference. Does seems alittle higher than normal. I know there not the same but I run two low perf rads ex360 and swiftech 240 same fans as you on i7 4790k at 4.8 1.29v and two gtx 780s at 1200mhz 1.21v and my cpu maxes 68 occt and Gpus never get above 45 beater temps I'm not sure (in running a ddc if that matters since d5s do dump heat into the loop some)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Should have pictures soon of my Caselabs S3 (Crossing fingers) last I checked it was in Oklahoma.









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm pretty disappointed in my current setup in my 750D case. These are my temps after a few minutes of gaming. Water temps, not hardware temps.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 4770k @ stock and two Titan X's running at 1430Mhz @ 1.237v and 1.174v. My three radiators are an RX360, RX240 and EX240. My pump is a D5 Vario via XSPC Photon 170 at level 5. I'm using all SP120 QE and they are running at max around 1400 RPM.
> 
> Ambient temps are about 23-24c. I just don't understand how temps are this high. My two Titans are running at about 55c.
> 
> I see so many builds out there with hot components completely overvolted and water temps don't even hit 35c with one or two radiators. Am I doing something completely wrong?
> 
> I should get my CL SMA8 in 2-3 weeks. I'll be dropping my EX240, and I'll be using an RX480, RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. All fans will be the SP120 QE, except the 560GTS and RX360 which will be using all EK Vardars. Do you all think I will get lower temps? I'll also be using 2 pumps maybe.


I might be wrong on this, don´t known the case well. But I recall another user with some problems in temps a couple of months ago and this ring a bell. Not sure it was the 750 but is it not this case that is very restrict in airflow? Take the panels out in front of the fans/rads and test your temps again. Simple test to check temps.

Edit -nah..it was the h440. Still, might be worth the test to have unblocked air flow over the rads to see how temps behave.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm pretty disappointed in my current setup in my 750D case. These are my temps after a few minutes of gaming. Water temps, not hardware temps.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 4770k @ stock and two Titan X's running at 1430Mhz @ 1.237v and 1.174v. My three radiators are an RX360, RX240 and EX240. My pump is a D5 Vario via XSPC Photon 170 at level 5. I'm using all SP120 QE and they are running at max around 1400 RPM.
> 
> Ambient temps are about 23-24c. I just don't understand how temps are this high. My two Titans are running at about 55c.
> 
> I see so many builds out there with hot components completely overvolted and water temps don't even hit 35c with one or two radiators. Am I doing something completely wrong?
> 
> I should get my CL SMA8 in 2-3 weeks. I'll be dropping my EX240, and I'll be using an RX480, RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. All fans will be the SP120 QE, except the 560GTS and RX360 which will be using all EK Vardars. Do you all think I will get lower temps? I'll also be using 2 pumps maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> I might be wrong on this, don´t known the case well. But I recall another user with some problems in temps a couple of months ago and this ring a bell. Not sure it was the 750 but is it not this case that is very restrict in airflow? Take the panels out in front of the fans/rads and test your temps again. Simple test to check temps.
> 
> Edit -nah..it was the h440. Still, might be worth the test to have unblocked air flow over the rads to see how temps behave.
Click to expand...

This ^

All indicative of bad air flow. High water temp shows it needs help from unrestricted flow. Or better flow management.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Should have pictures soon of my Caselabs S3 (Crossing fingers) last I checked it was in Oklahoma.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I paid them to re route it to GA lol I keed


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm pretty disappointed in my current setup in my 750D case. These are my temps after a few minutes of gaming. Water temps, not hardware temps.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 4770k @ stock and two Titan X's running at 1430Mhz @ 1.237v and 1.174v. My three radiators are an RX360, RX240 and EX240. My pump is a D5 Vario via XSPC Photon 170 at level 5. I'm using all SP120 QE and they are running at max around 1400 RPM.
> 
> Ambient temps are about 23-24c. I just don't understand how temps are this high. My two Titans are running at about 55c.
> 
> I see so many builds out there with hot components completely overvolted and water temps don't even hit 35c with one or two radiators. Am I doing something completely wrong?
> 
> I should get my CL SMA8 in 2-3 weeks. I'll be dropping my EX240, and I'll be using an RX480, RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. All fans will be the SP120 QE, except the 560GTS and RX360 which will be using all EK Vardars. Do you all think I will get lower temps? I'll also be using 2 pumps maybe.


_*In my opinion*_ SP120 QEs are not a high performing fan. You're making a compromise, sacrificing performance for looks and noise

I take the 3000RPM approach.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I paid them to re route it to GA lol I keed


NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> _*In my opinion*_ SP120 QEs are not a high performing fan. You're making a compromise, sacrificing performance for looks and noise
> 
> I take the 3000RPM approach.


And some Rads perform better with A certain Rpm. 3000 rpm isn't always the best.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I might be wrong on this, don´t known the case well. But I recall another user with some problems in temps a couple of months ago and this ring a bell. Not sure it was the 750 but is it not this case that is very restrict in airflow? Take the panels out in front of the fans/rads and test your temps again. Simple test to check temps.
> 
> Edit -nah..it was the h440. Still, might be worth the test to have unblocked air flow over the rads to see how temps behave.


I have the air flow panel they made last month or so. However, I'm selling it to a friend (because I'm parting out the case for my SMA8) and I currently have the stock panel on. There's about a 3-4c water temp decrease with the panel off. With the panel off, temps are about 37.5-39c and temps on the Tx's are around 46-48. So by taking off the front panel, I do see a little change, but it's still irritating with the fans running at 1400. 1100 is okay for me, but until I get my CL, 1400 it is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> _*In my opinion*_ SP120 QEs are not a high performing fan. You're making a compromise, sacrificing performance for looks and noise
> 
> I take the 3000RPM approach.


I 100% agree with you. And honestly, I wish I went with the EK120's. But since I have them, and the fact that I'll be building in an SMA8, the aesthetics go to my liking. That's why I'm going to be using the Vardars in the bottom compartment on my 360 and 560 radiators to balance out the loss of the SP120's. All the SP120's though will be on push pull.

Also, 3000 RPM seems like a complete waste to me when going with watercooling... Why? Because I watercool for silence. I would've stuck with my H100i and stock TX heat sink if I wanted loud







Ever since I started into water, I try and get the most silent I can. And for the SP120's they are silent around 850-1100 RPM


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I paid them to re route it to GA lol I keed
> 
> 
> 
> NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> _*In my opinion*_ SP120 QEs are not a high performing fan. You're making a compromise, sacrificing performance for looks and noise
> 
> I take the 3000RPM approach.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And some Rads perform better with A certain Rpm. 3000 rpm isn't always the best.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Not quite,you will always gain performance with RPM,however the gains are smaller the higher you go up the airflow range.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not quite,you will always gain performance with RPM,however the gains are smaller the higher you go up the airflow range.


I have always shopped Rad (FPI) and the Optimal Rpm range of the Fan needed.

So example: A Rx 360 XSPC (13fpi) Would perform better with 1200rpm fans. (An Example) may not be exactly correct.

TCO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not quite,you will always gain performance with RPM,however the gains are smaller the higher you go up the airflow range.


Funny you should mention that - here's some data to back it up









I'm just finishing up a set of runs on the EK XE 360mm with Furious Vardars (3000rpm) in Push/Pull.
Max I could hit at 100% PWM without over-volting was 2770 rpm with 3 fans on each splitter.

1.0 gpm
1300 rpm = 357.92 W/10DT
1850 rpm = 470.79 W/10DT
2300 rpm = 538.50 W/10DT
2770 rpm = 595.50 W/10DT

I also tested with the max flow rate I could get with the single PWM DDC on the test rig just for kicks








1.9 gpm @ 2770 rpm = 641.84 W/10DT

Done the Push Only also, almost finish the Pull Only for a comparison.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Funny you should mention that - here's some data to back it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just finishing up a set of runs on the EK XE 360mm with Furious Vardars (3000rpm) in Push/Pull.
> Max I could hit at 100% PWM without over-volting was 2770 rpm with 3 fans on each splitter.
> *
> 1.0 gpm
> 1300 rpm = 357.92 W/10DT
> 1850 rpm = 470.79 W/10DT
> 2300 rpm = 538.50 W/10DT
> 2770 rpm = 595.50 W/10DT*
> 
> I also the max flow rate I could get with the single PWM DDC on the test rig just for kicks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.9 gpm @ 2770 rpm = 641.84 W/10DT
> 
> Done the Push Only also, almost finish the Pull Only for a comparison.


Could you elaborate for the meaning of this?

TCO


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm pretty disappointed in my current setup in my 750D case. These are my temps after a few minutes of gaming. Water temps, not hardware temps.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 4770k @ stock and two Titan X's running at 1430Mhz @ 1.237v and 1.174v. My three radiators are an RX360, RX240 and EX240. My pump is a D5 Vario via XSPC Photon 170 at level 5. I'm using all SP120 QE and they are running at max around 1400 RPM.
> 
> Ambient temps are about 23-24c. I just don't understand how temps are this high. My two Titans are running at about 55c.
> 
> I see so many builds out there with hot components completely overvolted and water temps don't even hit 35c with one or two radiators. Am I doing something completely wrong?
> 
> I should get my CL SMA8 in 2-3 weeks. I'll be dropping my EX240, and I'll be using an RX480, RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. All fans will be the SP120 QE, except the 560GTS and RX360 which will be using all EK Vardars. Do you all think I will get lower temps? I'll also be using 2 pumps maybe.


They are quite high water temps. I doubt it is the fans specifically though because they worked fine for me. Vardars just give me lower noise.

A nearly 20C delta I just don't get. I didn't get a delta that high with just a single 240 rad cooling an overclocked i5 and 780
I would be willing to bet if you took one of those rads out and changed the air flow temps would be better. Unless those cards are just putting out an amazing amount of power.

The new case should by all rights give you at least a 10C water temp drop.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Could you elaborate for the meaning of this?
> 
> TCO


W/10ΔT mean power (in watt) dissipated for 10°c coolant delta, higher is better.
Check the rad roundup review for a better understanding.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Could you elaborate for the meaning of this?
> 
> TCO


Maybe should have mentioned 300 Watts heat load also








OK - in a nutshell
If the difference between your air in temp (ambient temp) and your coolant temp (I use coolant in temp) was 10°C...
then the W/10DT numbers are the heat/power that the radiator is cable of removing from the coolant
at each fan rpm rate.
Anyone got the link to the testing method page


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They are quite high water temps. I doubt it is the fans specifically though because they worked fine for me. Vardars just give me lower noise.
> 
> A nearly 20C delta I just don't get. I didn't get a delta that high with just a single 240 rad cooling an overclocked i5 and 780
> 
> The new case should by all rights give you at least a 10C water temp drop.


I sure hope so. I do believe it is the case that is causing the issue. I have my EX240 on the bottom (intake) and my RX240 in the front (intake). Now at the top I have an RX360 (exhaust) and its sucking in all the hot air from the two intake radiators. And that's exactly what I'm talking about regarding others peoples temps. They have a single 240, and temps are by far superior and at least 10c less than mine. Hopefully my SMA8 will drop a huge amount in temps, especially since I'm adding a 480 and 560.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Funny you should mention that - here's some data to back it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just finishing up a set of runs on the EK XE 360mm with Furious Vardars (3000rpm) in Push/Pull.
> Max I could hit at 100% PWM without over-volting was 2770 rpm with 3 fans on each splitter.
> 
> 1.0 gpm
> 1300 rpm = 357.92 W/10DT
> 1850 rpm = 470.79 W/10DT
> 2300 rpm = 538.50 W/10DT
> 2770 rpm = 595.50 W/10DT
> 
> I also tested with the max flow rate I could get with the single PWM DDC on the test rig just for kicks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.9 gpm @ 2770 rpm = 641.84 W/10DT
> 
> Done the Push Only also, almost finish the Pull Only for a comparison.


Law of diminishing returns indeed. Looking forward to that review then!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Maybe should have mentioned 300 Watts heat load also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK - in a nutshell
> If the difference between your air in temp (ambient temp) and your coolant temp (I use coolant in temp) was 10°C...
> then the W/10DT numbers are the heat/power that the radiator is cable of removing from the coolant
> at each fan rpm rate.
> Anyone got the link to the testing method page


I feel like I just took a couple tabs of LSD.

TCO

EDIT:


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Law of diminishing returns indeed. Looking forward to that review then!


Noise Cancelling head-set is a must !!
Or be half deaf already (like me)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm pretty happy with it, I have this one and a "Mini".
> 
> I added some coolant connectivity along the rear of the XL, so that it's easier to accommodate different cooling setups.
> 
> Makes it pretty handy.


Many thanks for the extra pictures and such - I definitely feel that I'll enjoy the EasyXL whenever I pick one up!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My old Easy/Hard.....
> 
> 
> 
> This one has experiment Mayhems Chameleon it it,this build must be getting on for 4 years old now....
> 
> It was a beast tho,2 360 GTX's with 38mm Kazes,bloody loud but AWESOME cooling potential.
> 
> Nice....if a bit wobbly. Still got all the DICE/LN2 mounts and pot still......I think.
> 
> I know I still have the mount as it fell out of the 'spares' cupboard on to me last week


Jeez, everything you do even a benching rig.... Is super neat and tidy isn't it!









EDIT: Silly question.... I'm guessing the whole easy/hard combination is just the hard on top of the easy, and using the easy for additional storage and such?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Funny you should mention that - here's some data to back it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just finishing up a set of runs on the EK XE 360mm with Furious Vardars (3000rpm) in Push/Pull.
> Max I could hit at 100% PWM without over-volting was 2770 rpm with 3 fans on each splitter.
> 
> 1.0 gpm
> 1300 rpm = 357.92 W/10DT
> 1850 rpm = 470.79 W/10DT
> 2300 rpm = 538.50 W/10DT
> 2770 rpm = 595.50 W/10DT
> 
> I also tested with the max flow rate I could get with the single PWM DDC on the test rig just for kicks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.9 gpm @ 2770 rpm = 641.84 W/10DT
> 
> Done the Push Only also, almost finish the Pull Only for a comparison.


Oh my.... Quite the difference the Furious Vardars could make on a benching rig by the sounds of it.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I feel like I just took a couple tabs of LSD.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT:


Me tooo








Just spent all night (7.15am now) pulling a build apart that failed leak test (air)
finally found the culprit - a flippin' reservoir that would not seal








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Many thanks for the extra pictures and such - I definitely feel that I'll enjoy the EasyXL whenever I pick one up!
> Jeez, everything you do even a benching rig.... Is super neat and tidy isn't it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my.... Quite the difference the Furious Vardars could make on a benching rig by the sounds of it.


In my opinion it is what the Furious Vardars are best suited for








(or where the noise factor is not of concern)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Me tooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just spent all night (7.15am now) pulling a build apart that failed leak test (air)
> finally found the culprit - a flippin' reservoir that would not seal


Excellent! Glad you found it Tiger!

TCO


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Noise Cancelling head-set is a must !!
> Or be half deaf already (like me)


Haha, yeah, I don't have the best hearing around, but for my personal machine this would definitely be a no-go.
It's in my bedroom a few feet/meters away from my bed and once it's done it'll be running pretty much 24/7 at
full load for BOINC (that's two GK110s and two 130 W Xeons, possibly overclocked, although not too much in the
interest of longevity and the power bill). I don't need a work PC to be super quiet, but when I'm sleeping next to
the thing I better not hear it over my own breathing, so I'll be aiming my fan rpm somewhere in the 400~600 rpm
range probably. Hence me putting all the rads I can fit into my SMH10.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, yeah, I don't have the best hearing around, but for my personal machine this would definitely be a no-go.
> It's in my bedroom a few feet/meters away from my bed and once it's done it'll be running pretty much 24/7 at
> full load for BOINC (that's two GK110s and two 130 W Xeons, possibly overclocked, although not too much in the
> interest of longevity and the power bill). I don't need a work PC to be super quiet, but when I'm sleeping next to
> the thing I better not hear it over my own breathing, so I'll be aiming my fan rpm somewhere in the 400~600 rpm
> range probably. Hence me putting all the rads I can fit into my SMH10.


The reservoir thing was the rebuild of my SR-2 that arrived back from RMA


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> In my opinion it is what the Furious Vardars are best suited for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (or where the noise factor is not of concern)


Definitely great to hear!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Haha, yeah, I don't have the best hearing around, but for my personal machine this would definitely be a no-go.
> It's in my bedroom a few feet/meters away from my bed and once it's done it'll be running pretty much 24/7 at
> full load for BOINC (that's two GK110s and two 130 W Xeons, possibly overclocked, although not too much in the
> interest of longevity and the power bill). I don't need a work PC to be super quiet, but when I'm sleeping next to
> the thing I better not hear it over my own breathing, so I'll be aiming my fan rpm somewhere in the 400~600 rpm
> range probably. Hence me putting all the rads I can fit into my SMH10.


You will have awesome data numbers if you are down for fans in the 750rpm Range. Just saying.

TCO


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You will have awesome data numbers if you are down for fans in the 750rpm Range. Just saying.
> 
> TCO


Data numbers? You mean review data for potential fan candidates? My apologies if I'm overlooking something
obvious here, it's 2AM, so I'm a tad sleepy.









I actually bought and modded a bunch of Spectre Pros a while back (the build has been going for several years
now, I've had to postpone it multiple times for financial and health reasons). They look like this now:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























Painted the inner frame with copper paint. The paint is copper particles suspended in an epoxy resin matrix
(you might have seen these pics already as I've posted them once or twice in various threads IIRC).

For anyone who wants to have a look at the build (I have done quite a bit already, but it's definitely not finished yet):
http://www.overclock.net/t/1405988/build-log-helios-caselabs-smh10-black-copper-evga-sr-2-geforce-titan-copper-tubes/

Back when I bought the fans, the selection of PWM fans was not yet as broad as it is now (they're 3-pin), so
despite all the time and effort I've put into them already I have been contemplating switching to PWM fans.
Not sure yet though, because obviously it would mean even more cost, and I am pretty happy with how
these have turned out from an aesthetic POV.

Ah well, we shall see.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The reservoir thing was the rebuild of my SR-2 that arrived back from RMA


Oh, it's back, awesome!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Data numbers? You mean review data for potential fan candidates? My apologies if I'm overlooking something
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> obvious here, it's 2AM, so I'm a tad sleepy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually bought and modded a bunch of Spectre Pros a while back (the build has been going for several years
> now, I've had to postpone it multiple times for financial and health reasons). They look like this now:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Painted the inner frame with copper paint. The paint is copper particles suspended in an epoxy resin matrix
> (you might have seen these pics already as I've posted them once or twice in various threads IIRC).
> 
> For anyone who wants to have a look at the build (I have done quite a bit already, but it's definitely not finished yet):
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1405988/build-log-helios-caselabs-smh10-black-copper-evga-sr-2-geforce-titan-copper-tubes/
> 
> Back when I bought the fans, the selection of PWM fans was not yet as broad as it is now (they're 3-pin), so
> despite all the time and effort I've put into them already I have been contemplating switching to PWM fans.
> Not sure yet though, because obviously it would mean even more cost, and I am pretty happy with how
> these have turned out from an aesthetic POV.
> 
> Ah well, we shall see.
> 
> EDIT:
> Oh, it's back, awesome! :wheee
> 
> 
> :


From Here

TCO


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> From Here
> 
> TCO


Ah yes, I have admittedly spent quite a few hours on their site in the past few weeks, thanks.









EDIT: I actually have two 560 HWLabs SR-1s and a 480 Alphacool XT45 for the roof. Probably won't
be replacing the SR-1 because they're still pretty damn good at very low rpms from what I've gleaned
from the data, haven't decided on the 480 yet though.

I really wish I could finally finish that build, but I think it'll take me quite a few months yet. The
disposable income I was planning on spending on that machine this summer went into an
unplanned laptop purchase (old one started to get a bit unreliable) and some replacement HDDs
because some in my server broke. Ah well, I am a very patient man at this point.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm pretty disappointed in my current setup in my 750D case. These are my temps after a few minutes of gaming. Water temps, not hardware temps.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 4770k @ stock and two Titan X's running at 1430Mhz @ 1.237v and 1.174v. My three radiators are an RX360, RX240 and EX240. My pump is a D5 Vario via XSPC Photon 170 at level 5. I'm using all SP120 QE and they are running at max around 1400 RPM.
> 
> Ambient temps are about 23-24c. I just don't understand how temps are this high. My two Titans are running at about 55c.
> 
> I see so many builds out there with hot components completely overvolted and water temps don't even hit 35c with one or two radiators. Am I doing something completely wrong?
> 
> I should get my CL SMA8 in 2-3 weeks. I'll be dropping my EX240, and I'll be using an RX480, RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. All fans will be the SP120 QE, except the 560GTS and RX360 which will be using all EK Vardars. Do you all think I will get lower temps? I'll also be using 2 pumps maybe.


I think this is likely poor air flow too. What is your case temp?


----------



## electro2u

@SteezyTN How much of a difference does it make if you put your 2 Titans at stock speed?
What is the vcore on your CPU?
What are the idle temps like on the components?

Having the rad on top as exhaust is reheating the coolant, i know you probably see that--that rad might as well not be there but even so;;;

I have my Aquaero start blinking red if my coolant temp goes above 40c.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm pretty disappointed in my current setup in my 750D case. These are my temps after a few minutes of gaming. Water temps, not hardware temps.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 4770k @ stock and two Titan X's running at 1430Mhz @ 1.237v and 1.174v. My three radiators are an RX360, RX240 and EX240. My pump is a D5 Vario via XSPC Photon 170 at level 5. I'm using all SP120 QE and they are running at max around 1400 RPM.
> 
> Ambient temps are about 23-24c. I just don't understand how temps are this high. My two Titans are running at about 55c.
> 
> I see so many builds out there with hot components completely overvolted and water temps don't even hit 35c with one or two radiators. Am I doing something completely wrong?
> 
> I should get my CL SMA8 in 2-3 weeks. I'll be dropping my EX240, and I'll be using an RX480, RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. All fans will be the SP120 QE, except the 560GTS and RX360 which will be using all EK Vardars. Do you all think I will get lower temps? I'll also be using 2 pumps maybe.


Are all your rads moving ambient air over them? I had my front rad as intake and my top and rear as outputs. This didn't work very well. I spent a weekend and made my top and front (280s) intakes and removed my rear rad (140) and made it a dedicated exhaust fan. My temps improved by almost 10C under load! Don't buy more rads just yet, make sure you have optomized what you have first.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm pretty disappointed in my current setup in my 750D case. These are my temps after a few minutes of gaming. Water temps, not hardware temps.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 4770k @ stock and two Titan X's running at 1430Mhz @ 1.237v and 1.174v. My three radiators are an RX360, RX240 and EX240. My pump is a D5 Vario via XSPC Photon 170 at level 5. I'm using all SP120 QE and they are running at max around 1400 RPM.
> 
> Ambient temps are about 23-24c. I just don't understand how temps are this high. My two Titans are running at about 55c.
> 
> I see so many builds out there with hot components completely overvolted and water temps don't even hit 35c with one or two radiators. Am I doing something completely wrong?
> 
> I should get my CL SMA8 in 2-3 weeks. I'll be dropping my EX240, and I'll be using an RX480, RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. All fans will be the SP120 QE, except the 560GTS and RX360 which will be using all EK Vardars. Do you all think I will get lower temps? I'll also be using 2 pumps maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> Are all your rads moving ambient air over them? I had my front rad as intake and my top and rear as outputs. This didn't work very well. I spent a weekend and made my top and front (280s) intakes and removed my rear rad (140) and made it a dedicated exhaust fan. My temps improved by almost 10C under load! Don't buy more rads just yet, make sure you have optomized what you have first.
Click to expand...

This.
I run all rads as intakes,reusing air that has already been 'worked' is detrimental to rad performance.
Your aim is to use the coldest air to maximise performance.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> I run all rads as intakes,reusing air that has already been 'worked' is detrimental to rad performance.
> Your aim is to use the coldest air to maximise performance.


so even a top mount rad you would want to run as a intake?

I have always wondered about this.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> so even a top mount rad you would want to run as a intake?
> 
> I have always wondered about this.


Yes sir, unless perhaps it's your only rad. That's been my experience at least and looks to be the growing consensus. I'm getting curious if I should make all my 15 120x120 rad squares Exhaust instead though







regardless I believe direction (in/out of case) should be the same for all rads in the system to avoid passing air filled with heat from an intake rad over an exhaust rad


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> I run all rads as intakes,reusing air that has already been 'worked' is detrimental to rad performance.
> Your aim is to use the coldest air to maximise performance.


Interesting. Makes sense when you think about it that way









I guess you will definitely have positive pressure in your case that way as well.

As a side thought, is there a point in running an exhaust in the back of the case in an LC'd system? Almost seems like running that fan as an intake would be better for airflow on the VRMs or feeding cold air to a potential top radiator. Thoughts?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Yes sir, unless perhaps it's your only rad. That's been my experience at least and looks to be the growing consensus. I'm getting curious if I should make all my 15 120x120 rad squares Exhaust instead though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> regardless I believe direction (in/out of case) should be the same for all rads in the system to avoid passing air filled with heat from an intake rad over an exhaust rad


Both my 360 rads mounted top and bottom in my Phateks Enthoo Primo are push/pull exhaust with 4-140mm fans in the front as intakes and the entire back of the case is open vented to pull in as much outside air as it needs with no issues at all...


----------



## Domler

On the topic of rads, which would be better for low rpm. SR-2 or XE. 750 rpm. I'm thinking the SR-2 because of the low fpi. Ideas?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I hesitated even posting this here, it's not what would likely be at the top of the recommendations for a 5960X/TitanX SLI build. But it actually works quite well. GPUs top out at 45°C when running 1500MHz, but I generally run them at about 1440, they run at ~40°C there. The CPU will bump 68~70°C at 4.6GHz under 100% load, but they all return to mid 30's (GPUs even lower than CPU) in just a few seconds after relieving the load. Aside from stress testing, not all three heat producers run 100% all the time, anyway, the way I use them. All three radiators (EK 140 XTC, EK 240 XTX, Magicool 240) are set to intake, EKs both in P/P. Two 140mm exhaust fans in the missing side panel.

Props to B Neg for his tubing bending tutorial









Be gentle, it's my first water cooled rig.


----------



## spyshagg

Removing all Radiators/pump/reservoir to an external homemade Radbox was the best decision I made. One tube in, on tube out.

I have:

1x Phobya 360 changer
1x EK 360 XTX
1x EK PE360
6x scythes Slip Stream 2000rpm
6x Noctuas nf-12p
3x silenx ixtrema

= 4ºc delta temp with:

2x 290x in crossfire 1200/1600 1.325v
2600k 4.9ghz 1.5v


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Interesting. Makes sense when you think about it that way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess you will definitely have positive pressure in your case that way as well.
> 
> As a side thought, is there a point in running an exhaust in the back of the case in an LC'd system? Almost seems like running that fan as an intake would be better for airflow on the VRMs or feeding cold air to a potential top radiator. Thoughts?


I figured since all my other fan spots were rads making warm air, I might as well have my rear pulling that warm air out. Not sure if the one fan could fight the positive pressure enough to make a difference as a intake. I'll have to think about trying it the other way when i next work on it.


----------



## kizwan

I have 3 radiators; 240 (front, push/pull), 120 (bottom, push/pull) & 360 (top). 1 x exhaust fan at the back. Changing top from intake to exhaust lowered water temp by few degrees. It also lowered case temp too.


----------



## funfordcobra

Sorry I posted under 2 different threads but I'm looking to order like in the next 20 minutes lol

Does this look right? Am I missing anything? Sorry this is my first time.

Anything you would change?

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/Screenshot 1.png.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Cannot see the list from my phone. Will start work in 20minutes. So if no replies by then, will give it then once over and get back to ya.









~Ceadder


----------



## funfordcobra

thank you. The only thing I was confused on was a bleeding/ draining tube and fittings possibly?

Also I was just going to use barbs and tubs to connect the gpus in a series. Is there a better Idea?

I use PCIE slots 1 and 3 but as you can see there are 2 full slots in-between on my x99 asus deluxe board.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like everything is fine. Personally I go with compressions but barbs are fine so long as the tubing is either a size smaller or if you have clamps. Some people have gone Ghetto with zips in lieu of clamps.

As far as your Bridge goes. Make sure to get a Quad and two block off plates to span the 4 slots. Triple will come up short. Unless of course you plan to go 1 and 3, in which case a triple will cover that.









Took me a minute to read your list though. Your screencap is pretty fuzzy even on a 15" monitor.









~Ceadder


----------



## By-Tor

When I used barbs (which wasn't to long ago) I used 1/2" barbs and 7/16" tubing for a nice tight fit and zip ties for piece of mind....


----------



## kizwan

For Bridge/Terminal, that look like can use triple with one blank.


----------



## MadHatter5045




----------



## B NEGATIVE

I do like a bit of Alpenfohn......


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do like a bit of Alpenfohn......


I love those fans, they've been really good to me


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do like a bit of Alpenfohn......


Parvum licensed Alpenfohn's fans for distribution to the US, right? I'm considering getting Parvum's black (Alpenfohn's "snow white") fan for my build instead of buying and painting GTs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do like a bit of Alpenfohn......
> 
> 
> 
> Parcum licensed Alpenfohn's fans for distribution to the US, right? I'm considering getting Parvum's black (Alpenfohn's "snow white") fan for my build instead of buying and painting GTs.
Click to expand...

I have some of those too.....


----------



## electro2u

@Shoggy and anyone else

I have ordered:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3193
aqualis D5 150 ml

*It appears that the pump top is part of the reservoir and is included? If so--that's a very good deal at 49,90 Euro*. Can this be true? Why give you the pump ring if there's no top for it to attach to?


Aqualis D5 pump top with decoupling screws (sold separately)

How do I mount this thing?? I was figuring on *just drilling some holes in the midplate/motherboard and hanging it from the pumptop with those 4 decoupling screws* Does that work?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> @Shoggy and anyone else
> 
> I have ordered:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3193
> aqualis D5 150 ml
> 
> 
> 
> *It appears that the pump top is part of the reservoir and is included? If so--that's a very good deal at 49,90 Euro*. Can this be true? Why give you the pump ring if there's no top for it to attach to?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aqualis D5 pump top with decoupling screws (sold separately)
> 
> 
> 
> How do I mount this thing?? I was figuring on *just drilling some holes in the midplate/motherboard and hanging it from the pumptop with those 4 decoupling screws* Does that work?


It is a combo so you only will need to mount you d5 on it (top+reservoir).
That sound right. Although the decouplers are not included on the package.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They are quite high water temps. I doubt it is the fans specifically though because they worked fine for me. Vardars just give me lower noise.
> 
> A nearly 20C delta I just don't get. I didn't get a delta that high with just a single 240 rad cooling an overclocked i5 and 780
> I would be willing to bet if you took one of those rads out and changed the air flow temps would be better. Unless those cards are just putting out an amazing amount of power.
> 
> The new case should by all rights give you at least a 10C water temp drop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I think this is likely poor air flow too. What is your case temp?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Are all your rads moving ambient air over them? I had my front rad as intake and my top and rear as outputs. This didn't work very well. I spent a weekend and made my top and front (280s) intakes and removed my rear rad (140) and made it a dedicated exhaust fan. My temps improved by almost 10C under load! Don't buy more rads just yet, make sure you have optomized what you have first.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> I run all rads as intakes,reusing air that has already been 'worked' is detrimental to rad performance.
> Your aim is to use the coldest air to maximise performance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> @SteezyTN How much of a difference does it make if you put your 2 Titans at stock speed?
> What is the vcore on your CPU?
> What are the idle temps like on the components?
> 
> Having the rad on top as exhaust is reheating the coolant, i know you probably see that--that rad might as well not be there but even so;;;
> 
> I have my Aquaero start blinking red if my coolant temp goes above 40c.


Okay everyone. Thanks for all the advices. What I did was make two of the three fans (I cant reach the screws on the third fan to remove it so I just turned it off) on my top radiator to bring in air from the outside... SO I made it intake. That's all three rads as intake. I don't think the third fan will make much of a difference for me to take down my loop to rearrange it just yet.

So overall, all rad fans are intake, and my temps are still crap. I ran Valley for like 20 minutes, and temps were already at the 40c mark. This is with my two titans overvolted to 1.237 and 1.174


----------



## deadwidesmile

Is 40c bad? I don't think you're expectations are realistic for radiators. If your ambient is 19c, then yeah, that's high. But, if your ambient is 23-25c, 'eh, you're really not doing too bad. I idle at 19c-21c with an AC unit pumping cold air directly at the PC (it's a window unit with the PC under the window/at the same height). Under load (Valley, Heaven, Firestrike) I reach 42-45c. But my noise levels are stupid quiet in comparison to a full air cooled solution. I'm at 480x3 radiator and SP120's/EK Vardar/Noctua NF12's all around (depending).

I think some peoples temperatures are exaggerated and/or not "complete". Running 3500rpm on all your fans with an AC set to 19c and saying "I never get past 35c @ full load!" is misleading.

If it's just too high for ya, I'd look into a water chiller.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay everyone. Thanks for all the advices. What I did was make two of the three fans (I cant reach the screws on the third fan to remove it so I just turned it off) on my top radiator to bring in air from the outside... SO I made it intake. That's all three rads as intake. I don't think the third fan will make much of a difference for me to take down my loop to rearrange it just yet.
> 
> So overall, all rad fans are intake, and my temps are still crap. I ran Valley for like 20 minutes, and temps were already at the 40c mark. This is with my two titans overvolted to 1.237 and 1.174


Have you tried taking the front and top panels off the case to see if that makes a difference?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Is 40c bad? I don't think you're expectations are realistic for radiators. If your ambient is 19c, then yeah, that's high. But, if your ambient is 23-25c, 'eh, you're really not doing too bad. I idle at 19c-21c with an AC unit pumping cold air directly at the PC (it's a window unit with the PC under the window/at the same height). Under load (Valley, Heaven, Firestrike) I reach 42-45c. But my noise levels are stupid quiet in comparison to a full air cooled solution. I'm at 480x3 radiator and SP120's/EK Vardar/Noctua NF12's all around (depending).
> 
> I think some peoples temperatures are exaggerated and/or not "complete". Running 3500rpm on all your fans with an AC set to 19c and saying "I never get past 35c @ full load!" is misleading.
> 
> If it's just too high for ya, I'd look into a water chiller.


this is water temps. Not the GPU temps


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is a combo so you only will need to mount you d5 on it (top+reservoir).
> That sound right. Although the decouplers are not included on the package.


Thanks Gabriel!~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Is 40c bad? I don't think you're expectations are realistic for radiators. If your ambient is 19c, then yeah, that's high. But, if your ambient is 23-25c, 'eh, you're really not doing too bad. I idle at 19c-21c with an AC unit pumping cold air directly at the PC (it's a window unit with the PC under the window/at the same height). Under load (Valley, Heaven, Firestrike) I reach 42-45c. But my noise levels are stupid quiet in comparison to a full air cooled solution. I'm at 480x3 radiator and SP120's/EK Vardar/Noctua NF12's all around (depending).
> 
> I think some peoples temperatures are exaggerated and/or not "complete". Running 3500rpm on all your fans with an AC set to 19c and saying "I never get past 35c @ full load!" is misleading.
> 
> If it's just too high for ya, I'd look into a water chiller.


No, you're right-- 42C is OK for water temps, definitely; it's just a question of expected performance vs. real world result.

My first big loop was a 295x2+290x with RIVBE full cover and 360mm+280mm rads. I was sporting over 50C water temps due to high ambient and high TDP. 60C is getting close to unsafe for thermal expansion/pressure to start popping seals.

I can't help but compare my current setup--single 980 at ~1570Mhz/8200RAM Furmark+prime95 stable; [email protected] and a VRM block for the M7H. Running Furmark fullscreen 1440p 4xMSAA ON TOP of prime95 v27.9 Small FFTs still doesn't get my water temps above ~40C with same 280+360mm radiators and 8 GT 120s @<1800RPM. I'd like to think adding another 200mm of radspace Steezy has would at least compensate for adding another 980 (24C-26C ambients).

TitanX is rated at 250 TDP so one can extrapolate expectations of a dual 980/980Ti sli Setup. It's a stock 4770k which is not much heat dump, either.

So the variable for me is the amount of TDP added with the 2 GPUs overclocked. Still can't be more than 1000W.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> @Shoggy and anyone else
> 
> I have ordered:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3193
> aqualis D5 150 ml
> 
> *It appears that the pump top is part of the reservoir and is included? If so--that's a very good deal at 49,90 Euro*. Can this be true? Why give you the pump ring if there's no top for it to attach to?
> 
> 
> Aqualis D5 pump top with decoupling screws (sold separately)
> 
> How do I mount this thing?? I was figuring on *just drilling some holes in the midplate/motherboard and hanging it from the pumptop with those 4 decoupling screws* Does that work?


I'm using the DDC version of that res. and mounted it to the back wall of my case. Make sure the screws are not to long and bottom out in the pump top and damage it.

I wanted my water return at the top, but this res. is not designed for that purpose unless you use a pipe to stop the water from splashing back into the res. and causing bubbles all the time. You can see my red one installed...

These come in black and silver also.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-male-g1-4-deep-blood-red-aqua-pipe-i-fitting.html


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> this is water temps. Not the GPU temps


I know









I'd give you my water temperature's but my little LCD seems to have disappeared. Got to love having kids that run off with 80% of ANYTHING on your desk.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Thanks Gabriel!~
> No, you're right-- 42C is OK for water temps, definitely; it's just a question of expected performance vs. real world result.
> 
> My first big loop was a 295x2+290x with RIVBE full cover and 360mm+280mm rads. I was sporting over 50C water temps due to high ambient and high TDP. 60C is getting close to unsafe for thermal expansion/pressure to start popping seals.
> 
> I can't help but compare my current setup--single 980 at ~1570Mhz/8200RAM Furmark+prime95 stable; [email protected] and a VRM block for the M7H. Running Furmark fullscreen 1440p 4xMSAA ON TOP of prime95 v27.9 Small FFTs still doesn't get my water temps above ~40C with same 280+360mm radiators and 8 GT 120s @<1800RPM. I'd like to think adding another 200mm of radspace Steezy has would at least compensate for adding another 980 (24C-26C ambients).
> 
> TitanX is rated at 250 TDP so one can extrapolate expectations of a dual 980/980Ti sli Setup. It's a stock 4770k which is not much heat dump, either.
> 
> So the variable for me is the amount of TDP added with the 2 GPUs overclocked. Still can't be more than 1000W.


Yeah, I'm rarely above 40c-45c under heavy load for ~45 minutes. But, again, my ambient is incredibly cold for the average and I have 1440mm of radiator space currently. I run my fans at 800-1000rpm and 1200rpm max. Is the 750D really that constricted when it comes to are flow? I've only heard good things about the case. The GT's definitely help your case there, hehe. SP120's are like a dim, distant candle in comparison


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd give you my water temperature's but my little LCD seems to have disappeared. Got to love having kids that run off with 80% of ANYTHING on your desk.
> Yeah, I'm rarely above 40c-45c under heavy load for ~45 minutes. But, again, my ambient is incredibly cold for the average and I have 1440mm of radiator space currently. I run my fans at 800-1000rpm and 1200rpm max. Is the 750D really that constricted when it comes to are flow? I've only heard good things about the case. The GT's definitely help your case there, hehe. SP120's are like a dim, distant candle in comparison


I don't know what the problem is. I hear so much how they people get great temps with one or two rads, and here I am with 3 rads getting close to 45c in water temps, which bring my Titans to 55c at max. That's ridiculous. This is the first case I've ever watercooled in, so I don't know about others. I really hope my SMA8, along with the 480 and 560, to bring water temps below 30-35c, and max GPU temps below 40-45c


----------



## OGBeandip

What do you guys think of this?

The Yellow radiator is cooling a i7-5930k
The Green radiators are cooling Tri SLI Titan Xs.

There will also be an external Mora 3 for the TX loop.

Theres an area behind that big panel with the phanteks badge that can support 2 fans which I will have on exhaust.


----------



## SteezyTN

I don't know much about positive and negative airflow, but that's all fans running as images and only 2 out (which you say will be behind the badge). If you have the rads as intake, I think you should have the rear exhaust as a dedicated exhaust.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I don't know much about positive and negative airflow, but that's all fans running as images and only 2 out (which you say will be behind the badge). If you have the rads as intake, I think you should have the rear exhaust as a dedicated exhaust.


Yeah I was worried about the excessive positive pressure. I could do that rear fan as exhaust. The one reason I didnt is to get better airflow over the motherboard. But with that top radiator it should already be enough. Ill switch that to exhaust.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Yeah I was worried about the excessive positive pressure. I could do that rear fan as exhaust. The one reason I didnt is to get better airflow over the motherboard. But with that top radiator it should already be enough. Ill switch that to exhaust.


But don't quote me on that


----------



## OGBeandip

The revised version. Still includes the 2 exhaust fans in the back side panel and the external mora 3 for the GPU loop.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I'm using the DDC version of that res. and mounted it to the back wall of my case. Make sure the screws are not to long and bottom out in the pump top and damage it.
> 
> I wanted my water return at the top, but this res. is not designed for that purpose unless you use a pipe to stop the water from splashing back into the res. and causing bubbles all the time. You can see my red one installed...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> These come in black and silver also.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-male-g1-4-deep-blood-red-aqua-pipe-i-fitting.html


Rep up.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Is the 750D really that constricted when it comes to are flow? I've only heard good things about the case. The GT's definitely help your case there, hehe. SP120's are like a dim, distant candle in comparison


The 760T im currently using is almost exactly the same as the 750D inside but 1 fewer fan mount on the bottom and i didnt have enough room for a rear exhaust fan after switching from alphacool to nemesis gtx rads. The 750D is very good on ventilation and I'm switching to it for giggles. Wanted to rebuild with aome new components and move away from the vinyl ive got throughout the 760t.


----------



## deadwidesmile

As a side note about case flow, all of my radiators are intake. I don't believe in sucking used/hot air thru a radiator on top of the hot water passing thru. I have 1 exhaust for all of my case intake which is 1440mm of radiator and a 200mm front intake. All of it is being pushed out of the case with a single Phantek 140mm rear fan. When I do a smoke test there's no stagnant areas in the middle. It's a solid throughput of air from front/bottom/top to the backside and out.

Everything is filtered as well. I love positive over negative pressure. IF you filter EVERY intake.


----------



## Agenesis

Does anybody know the width of the terminal that comes with ek blocks?










I bought a card that's slightly too wide for my case and I only have about 1 inch of free space before it touches the side panel. I plan on watercooling it once there's a block available but from the look of things that might not be possible if the terminal is too wide.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

It sticks out almost exactly 1" from the edge of the card PCB or waterblock coverplate.


----------



## SteezyTN

So what do you guys think regarding this setup and the amount of tubing? I will probably have all 90 degree fittings in the bottom compartment, and a few in the top and middle compartments. I'm estimating about 21 90 degree fittings and not to mention my 560GTS which is very restrictive. Now I'm only going to be using one pump for now, and get another when I have the funds.

For when I do get the second pump, does anyone think it'd be okay for this layout? Or should I separate it into two loops

Loop one: 4770k and RX480
Loop two: Titan X's and 560GTS, RX360, and RX240

Thanks



Edit* I'm also planning on leaving the 560, 360, and front 240 as intake. For the top 480, I have decided if I want intake or exhaust. If I do two loops, then I'll most likely have all the rads as intake. The only exhaust will be the rear


----------



## OGBeandip

Anyone got tips for bending PETG?

Im doing my first hardline soon, Ive bent copper before at work but it wasnt very pretty and was just for some hydraulic lines.

I plan to hand bend the PETG, I diid that with the copper so it cant be too hard to do it with plastic.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> The revised version. Still includes the 2 exhaust fans in the back side panel and the external mora 3 for the GPU loop.


Are you sure you can fit a 480 down there and the 240 mm in front? I have the primo and I think one will conflict with the other. The option would be the side mount. In any case is a very good case whit ton of space for rads. I run two original Tx + a 4960x there with a 420 mm on top, 280 mm bottom and 2x 240 mm front and side and the difference between ambient and water temp was just too good.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Anyone got tips for bending PETG?
> 
> Im doing my first hardline soon, Ive bent copper before at work but it wasnt very pretty and was just for some hydraulic lines.
> 
> I plan to hand bend the PETG, I diid that with the copper so it cant be too hard to do it with plastic.


You don't need too much heat.
When applying heat, twisting needs to be gentle and balanced. PETG has visible lines along the tube. You might wanna keep them straight.









And yea, don't ever pull when bending.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you sure you can fit a 480 down there and the 240 mm in front? I have the primo and I think one will conflict with the other. The option would be the side mount. In any case is a very good case whit ton of space for rads. I run two original Tx + a 4960x there with a 420 mm on top, 280 mm bottom and 2x 240 mm front and side and the difference between ambient and water temp was just too good.


You may be right, I havent gotten a hold of the radiators yet so I cant test fit. I may do a side mount though and set the front up with exhaust fans.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You don't need too much heat.
> When applying heat, twisting needs to be gentle and balanced. PETG has visible lines along the tube. You might wanna keep them straight.


How easy is it to get clean bends compared to acrylic?

And are the lines very noticeable?

I will be using the Bitspower 12mm OD tube if I go with PETG


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> How easy is it to get clean bends compared to acrylic?
> 
> And are the lines very noticeable?
> 
> I will be using the Bitspower 12mm OD tube if I go with PETG


My Primochill has those lines. They're not that noticeable really. But when struck by a light source, Bends with crooked lines will not look clean.

PETG softens and hardens quicker than Acrylic if I remember right.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> My Primochill has those lines. They're not that noticeable really. But when struck by a light source, Bends with crooked lines will not look clean.
> 
> PETG softens and hardens quicker than Acrylic if I remember right.


Thanks, looks like Im sticking with the PETG then.


----------



## OGBeandip

Alright I revised it. What do you guys think now? This doesnt include the side panel fans that are also in exhaust.


----------



## Ceadderman

Or the PSU. Where you putting that?

~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or the PSU. Where you putting that?
> 
> ~Ceadder


Theres a spot behind the motherboard tray for it.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Working on a new build. Case is 750d and I bought a Maximus vii gene. However I really don't like two things. A) the sli spacing is close like really close. B) don't like the massive gap between the psu and the bottom of the board. The alternative is to go with my old full atx board - the z97-ar. As much as I like the look of a mosfet block I'm not overvolting the CPU like crazy. More concerned about ocing the gpu than pushing the CPU beyond 4.7. I have a black and silver motif going on that would match the z97ar perfectly but I'm trying to decide.

I guess what I'm really asking is if I'm not overvolting the CPU like crazy will I get any major performance gains with the gene vs a non-ROG board? Sorry if this sounds like a noob question but I can't make up my mind.


----------



## Rahldrac

Anybody ever seen a phanteks primo modded to have the entire front be a radiator space, and a bigger window?


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I don't know what the problem is. I hear so much how they people get great temps with one or two rads, and here I am with 3 rads getting close to 45c in water temps, which bring my Titans to 55c at max. That's ridiculous. This is the first case I've ever watercooled in, so I don't know about others. I really hope my SMA8, along with the 480 and 560, to bring water temps below 30-35c, and max GPU temps below 40-45c


i think alot of people talk fud about their temps which leads to unrealistic expectations tbh

i have a 30mm 420 radiator with P/P 140 Fractal Design Ventauri's and a 45mm 240 with P/P 1150 vardars

all fans in my system never go above 1150 rpm and my water temps are around 39-42c regardless of the ambient which varies between 22-27c

despite the high water temps the actual cards normally peak around 52c on hot days and 47c when its cooler

funny how water temps stay the same despite the ambient but the components themselves get different temps at different ambients

i used to use SP120 QEs myself changing them out to GT1450s or equivalents will get you maybe 3-4c reduction on card temps dunno about water temps

using 980 Ti's at 1.187v 1455mhz


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Anybody ever seen a phanteks primo modded to have the entire front be a radiator space, and a bigger window?


Ive seen full windows, I think MNPCTech actually makes one.
But Ive never seen the front modded for a bigger radiator.


----------



## OGBeandip

Anybody have experience with the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45?

Im thinking of using one for my overclocked i7-5930k @ around 1.3mv-1.35mv, using Noctua NF-A14 ippc fans. Not sure what speed yet but hopefully fairly slow so they stay quiet.

The only other thing in the loop is 2 memory blocks cooling 8 modules.

So this is pushing 200+.watts easy. I could just turn the fans up but I want this to not sound like a jet engine. Im tired of the 800-1300rpm constant white noise.


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Anybody have experience with the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45?


i have used to have the 360 XT45 and still using a 240 and they are decent rads with multiple ports which is handy

most reviews I've read rate it as the best medium thickness radiator


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> i have used to have the 360 XT45 and still using a 240 and they are decent rads with multiple ports which is handy
> 
> most reviews I've read rate it as the best medium thickness radiator


What were the temps like and what were you cooling? Fans?

Thanks for the answer.


----------



## Domler

He guys. What the best acylic for 12 mm od for bitspower enhanced link fittings. I know all tubing is a lil different. Just don't want it to leek. Thanks.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Anybody ever seen a phanteks primo modded to have the entire front be a radiator space, and a bigger window?


For a window bill owens has a website they sell full windows for the phanteks case. But you can always do your own I did this on my pro which I will be getting rid of this week. For the front you can cut and bill owens sells modders mesh than using acrylic or thin metal make a larger rad bracket or use Velcro.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Alright I revised it. What do you guys think now? This doesnt include the side panel fans that are also in exhaust.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would just put both rads as intake, leave your front fans as intake, and the rear as exhaust. in cases like this where the cases have plenty of holes and aren't sealed, positive pressure is your friend!

You'll also want those front fans as intake so that you can get some air that hasn't been warned by the rads into the case - it'll keep your motherboard and internal case temps lower.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Alright I revised it. What do you guys think now? This doesnt include the side panel fans that are also in exhaust.


I have almost the same number of rads as u and the same case as well, my recommendation is change the top rad to exhaust and let your front fan as intake while the rest remains the same.


----------



## OGBeandip

Wouldnt blowing the warm air onto the radiator be a bad thing?

Also Im replacing that top 480 with a 420 instead.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Wouldnt blowing the warm air onto the radiator be a bad thing?
> 
> Also Im replacing that top 480 with a 420 instead.


I did have better temp when I have my top 480 as exhaust as oppose to intake. Having both the bottom and top as your intake will have negative air pressure build up inside your case.


----------



## Onions

so how are you guys able to get all teh tubes at perfect 90 degree bends... i mean i know ive been out of it a while but looks stellar.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> so how are you guys able to get all teh tubes at perfect 90 degree bends... i mean i know ive been out of it a while but looks stellar.


A lot of acrylic. That's how.

TCO


----------



## Onions

is there a guide somewhere you can point me too?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> so how are you guys able to get all teh tubes at perfect 90 degree bends... i mean i know ive been out of it a while but looks stellar.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A lot of acrylic. That's how.
> 
> TCO


Lol I have to agree with that.

There are some bending kits available that help you get some nice bends. Monsoon makes one but there are 2 others as well.


----------



## electro2u

Mandrels. Eventually you get to the point where you can free hand them and use some graph paper/grid lines to verify corre t slope and angles. TCO nailed it with lots of extra tubing.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> is there a guide somewhere you can point me too?


Link to B Neg's 101


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> He guys. What the best acylic for 12 mm od for bitspower enhanced link fittings. I know all tubing is a lil different. Just don't want it to leek. Thanks.


E22 Ultraclear.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> so how are you guys able to get all teh tubes at perfect 90 degree bends... i mean i know ive been out of it a while but looks stellar.


Mandrels and practice.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> is there a guide somewhere you can point me too?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Lol I have to agree with that.
> 
> There are some bending kits available that help you get some nice bends. Monsoon makes one but there are 2 others as well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Mandrels. Eventually you get to the point where you can free hand them and use some graph paper/grid lines to verify corre t slope and angles. TCO nailed it with lots of extra tubing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Link to B Neg's 101


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> E22 Ultraclear.
> Mandrels and practice.


B _Neg has the Guide.

It's not hard but it is time consuming. The outcome is worth every Minute though.




Kinda like Playing Russian Roulette I suppose.



TCO


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay everyone. Thanks for all the advices. What I did was make two of the three fans (I cant reach the screws on the third fan to remove it so I just turned it off) on my top radiator to bring in air from the outside... SO I made it intake. That's all three rads as intake. I don't think the third fan will make much of a difference for me to take down my loop to rearrange it just yet.
> 
> So overall, all rad fans are intake, and my temps are still crap. I ran Valley for like 20 minutes, and temps were already at the 40c mark. This is with my two titans overvolted to 1.237 and 1.174


I think you should try getting the third rad fan online

If the third isn't spinning, the air pushed through the first two fans can just escape through the open third fan rather than passing through the radiator


----------



## emsj86

I know you won't wanna hear it and it's thrown around a lot try re installing windows might help the temps. Just kidding. But when you get your new case. Start fresh and re apply all thermal paste. Might be the problem might not but it's better to start fresh just in case. Edit: question? you had this build for Alittle bit now , has it always been this way or just worse now. If it's just recently try to think what maybe has changed. Ambient temp , case moved, different fan curve , etc


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For a window bill owens has a website they sell full windows for the phanteks case. But you can always do your own I did this on my pro which I will be getting rid of this week. For the front you can cut and bill owens sells modders mesh than using acrylic or thin metal make a larger rad bracket or use Velcro.


That widow looks really nice !
I do have an old Thermaltake T81, that would look perfect if only I could make the entire side one window (Should also do something about that restrictive front i guess). Would be a fun mod, but I believe it's way above my skill, since it demands an entire new door somehow.


Best thing would be Primo with entire front for radiator, away with the silly harddrive cover and window over the whole thing. Would be perfect.
Too bad buying Caselabs to Eu is crazy expensive. An SMA8 with XXL window would be nice too.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay everyone. Thanks for all the advices. What I did was make two of the three fans (I cant reach the screws on the third fan to remove it so I just turned it off) on my top radiator to bring in air from the outside... SO I made it intake. That's all three rads as intake. I don't think the third fan will make much of a difference for me to take down my loop to rearrange it just yet.
> 
> So overall, all rad fans are intake, and my temps are still crap. I ran Valley for like 20 minutes, and temps were already at the 40c mark. This is with my two titans overvolted to 1.237 and 1.174


My water temps also in the 40s mark but my ambient is >32C. My cards only overclocked few megahertz above stock anyway for 24/7.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Wouldnt blowing the warm air onto the radiator be a bad thing?
> 
> Also Im replacing that top 480 with a 420 instead.
> 
> 
> 
> I did have better temp when I have my top 480 as exhaust as oppose to intake. *Having both the bottom and top as your intake will have negative air pressure build up inside your case.*
Click to expand...

Typo there. It's positive pressure.


----------



## OGBeandip

Yeah, I assumed it was just a typo. Strong intake is positive, strong exhaust is negative, even is neutral.


----------



## deadwidesmile

I prefer positive personally. It works well for my setup. After trying both and failing at neutral, I just stick to positive. Filter every intake and I only dust once a month instead of every week.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My water temps also in the 40s mark but my ambient is >32C. My cards only overclocked few megahertz above stock anyway for 24/7.
> Typo there. It's positive pressure.


Thanks for the correction







, too much going in my mind atm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For a window bill owens has a website they sell full windows for the phanteks case. But you can always do your own I did this on my pro which I will be getting rid of this week. For the front you can cut and bill owens sells modders mesh than using acrylic or thin metal make a larger rad bracket or use Velcro.
> 
> 
> 
> That widow looks really nice !
> I do have an old Thermaltake T81, that would look perfect if only I could make the entire side one window (Should also do something about that restrictive front i guess). Would be a fun mod, but I believe it's way above my skill, since it demands an entire new door somehow.
> 
> 
> Best thing would be Primo with entire front for radiator, away with the silly harddrive cover and window over the whole thing. Would be perfect.
> Too bad buying Caselabs to Eu is crazy expensive. An SMA8 with XXL window would be nice too.
Click to expand...

Not beyond your skill, so long as you have and know how to use a power drill with a 1/8" drill bit to drill out there rivets.









~Ceadder


----------



## Domler

http://www.mayhems.net/ucp.php?mode=register


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not beyond your skill, so long as you have and know how to use a power drill with a 1/8" drill bit to drill out there rivets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well, I do got a drill with a lot of bits, and im never gonna use it anyway








But how to make a new door with hinges?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Well, I do got a drill with a lot of bits, and im never gonna use it anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But how to make a new door with hinges?


Whats wrong with the door panel? If it still works you could dremel out a window into it. I havent done it but its a common project. Id like to r3place this tint3d 750D window so i think ill pick up some acrylic and watch some youtube videos on how to do it properly.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Whats wrong with the door panel? If it still works you could dremel out a window into it. I havent done it but its a common project. Id like to r3place this tint3d 750D window so i think ill pick up some acrylic and watch some youtube videos on how to do it properly.


Same thing I want to do to my 900Ds window. All this money invested into my system and I can barely see it. Lol


----------



## SteezyTN

So for my setup, I made Every single fan on my rads as intake. They are all running around 1350, and I'm still getting temps of 42c.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Ill rep you both for the good cheer and generosity.
> 
> Xant help but wonder how one comes upon 10 terminals for a 980 ti kingpin block but im also just as mustified as how it came without one...


Family things came up, but to answer the question...

I had all of the Acetal terminals from 8 blocks. I bought 8 plexi terminals and upon installing them, some broke. Ek didn't like that, since the part that broke was the oring lip, so they replaced all of them with inspected parts. 4 had broke, so I had 12 plexi terminals, and then the fittings leaked on 4 cards (the actual fitting, not the terminal amymore) and I pulled those 4 and installed a semi parallel quad bridge, leaving 8 plexi terminals in mint condition and 8 Acetal terminals, also in mint condition, completely unused. So, I lied, and had 16 spare terminals lying around, which is now 14 spare terminals because I sent one Acetal and one plexi to match the blocks he had :-D


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## deadwidesmile

It's so little. I want to build a little water cooled rig for my son. Maybe next year I'll start assembling parts. Any recommendation on cases?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Well hello sexy lady


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Whats wrong with the door panel? If it still works you could dremel out a window into it. I havent done it but its a common project. Id like to r3place this tint3d 750D window so i think ill pick up some acrylic and watch some youtube videos on how to do it properly.


I know, I'm looking at some guides now. The problem is that the t81 have suicide Doors, so not one door that span the entire distance :/


----------



## Piccardo

This is my almost water cooled rig







I can only hope that with time Ill be able to bild one rig just like most of u here


----------



## electro2u

Thats a neat case youve got there. If there is liquid coolant in the thing it counts, imo.


----------



## wermad

Raven 01, been out for a while now. Sporting the proprietary (?) 90° Silverstone mb layout. And yeah, aio count here.


----------



## Ceadderman

My h50 got me in and I kept my head focused on putting together my loop. Took me awhile but I got mine together and working great about 8 months or so later.









Wtc!









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Thats a neat case youve got there. If there is liquid coolant in the thing it counts, imo.


Do aio coolers count?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Thats a neat case youve got there. If there is liquid coolant in the thing it counts, imo.
> 
> 
> 
> Do aio coolers count?
Click to expand...

Only if they're waterbased cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only if they're waterbased cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What else would they be? Mineral oil?


----------



## Ceadderman

LN2.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

There's a AIO Ln2?! Sign me the heck up!


----------



## Ceadderman

I WISH!







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Final setup before leak testing filling and bleeding. 



This bend was tough. 

And my programming /Netflix /pretty much anything that requires zero power computer


----------



## Ceadderman

Why didn't you just make that run from the outside port instead of the inside one? Seems that would've been the way to go unless you really wanted the extra fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why didn't you just make that run from the outside port instead of the inside one? Seems that would've been the way to go unless you really wanted the extra fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If you're referring to CPU out to The top rad, there was no space. It's a 280


----------



## jleslie246

Just switched out my fluid to white. This is my 3rd fluid change since i first built it. Not sure why the rez looks yellow. I guess I need a bright white LED behind it. I really need to change out the red LED's to white. Although I can just turn them off.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Just switched out my fluid to white. This is my 3rd fluid change since i first built it. Not sure why the rez looks yellow. I guess I need a bright white LED behind it. I really need to change out the red LED's to white. Although I can just turn them off.


look into the DarkSide Connects. i feel these are the go-to LEDs for some of the big name modders/builders

looks like you're using the NZXT Led Strip, which is what i currently have. they started out bright white. now they barely allow me to see my reservoir. lol
i bought some DarkSides, just waiting on the new case to arrive.


----------



## jleslie246

Yes, over the past few months they have really gotten dim. You can tell when you compare my older picture with red fluid. LED's were new then.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

My d5 is making this weird buzzing noise as if something is moving inside. It's happened with my old pump but went away after awhile. Also if I rock my PC it tends to go away and come back. Is this an air pocket in my pump?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> My d5 is making this weird buzzing noise as if something is moving inside. It's happened with my old pump but went away after awhile. Also if I rock my PC it tends to go away and come back. Is this an air pocket in my pump?


It's possible. I remember when I ran mayhems blitz part 2, is made a sound where I though my pump was going bad. In a sense, Mayhems part 2 bubbles when it's in the pump area, and that's what was chasing my pump to do that. So yeah, my guess would be that there's a bubble in there. How long as the loop been together?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> It's possible. I remember when I ran mayhems blitz part 2, is made a sound where I though my pump was going bad. In a sense, Mayhems part 2 bubbles when it's in the pump area, and that's what was chasing my pump to do that. So yeah, my guess would be that there's a bubble in there. How long as the loop been together?


It's new. Just filled up now. I just switched to onboard power for the pump and it made a big difference. I doubt the power source made a difference but it probably knocked the bubble loose.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Final setup before leak testing filling and bleeding.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bend was tough.
> 
> And my programming /Netflix /pretty much anything that requires zero power computer


You might want to go back and fix the GPU plumbing. . . . Before you kill them . . . .

The pic is a bit fuzzy, but from what I see . . . .

You have them tubed in parallel, but have the in and out connections like they were in serial . . .

As you have them configured, . . . .

You'll get no flow thru either of them . . . It just comes in at the bottom rear, and flows right thru to the CPU

For parallel, . . . Move either the top or bottom connection, but not both, to the forward port.

For serial, . . . Just remove the rear connection between the GPUs.

It looks like it will be a lot easier to go with serial, as you'll only have to change the setup between the GPUs, which is easy, and you can leave the in and out connections where they are.

Put your temp sensors in the ports where you take out the rear connection between the GPUs, and plugs where the sensors are now in the front GPU ports.

Darlene

Edited to add thoughts for making an easy fix . . .


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> My d5 is making this weird buzzing noise as if something is moving inside. It's happened with my old pump but went away after awhile. Also if I rock my PC it tends to go away and come back. Is this an air pocket in my pump?


How is this pump controlled? Mine has a manual speed adjustment from 1-5. Anything higher than 4 and i start to get vibration from the pump. The higher speed has no cooling benefit in my system so I leave it around 3.8 (3800 rpm).

I hope this helps


----------



## khemist

Switched to the Define S after my G1 sniper board died, psu cables need to be replaced in the future, just waiting on the watercool 980Ti blocks now,


----------



## v1ral

How are the new Nemesis radiators? Would the Helix fans be sufficiant enough?
Loop: H220x and rafiator in question.
Thanks!


----------



## OGBeandip

I just saw some new listings on massdrop for bitspower rigid fittings. Is it ok to put a link here?

Im not sure what the policy is on stuff like that here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

.






TCO


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I just saw some new listings on massdrop for bitspower rigid fittings. Is it ok to put a link here?
> 
> Im not sure what the policy is on stuff like that here.


I'm pretty sure Massdrop is okay, but auction sites (eBay, etc) are a no-go. I know Massdrop links are on the Mech Keyboard club all the time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Vader? Is that you?

I know it's you. I can hear you breathing in the background, so I know it's you.









No against To to link to another site for anything other than reviews.









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

I want a s3. Man, that's a cool case, TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I'm pretty sure Massdrop is okay, but auction sites (eBay, etc) are a no-go. I know Massdrop links are on the Mech Keyboard club all the time.


Ok cool, thanks.

Ill post this then: https://www.massdrop.com/vote/watercooling-rigid-fittings?s=bitspower

Its practically empty right now but who knows, maybe we can get a discount if we all band together on it.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Ok cool, thanks.
> 
> Ill post this then: https://www.massdrop.com/vote/watercooling-rigid-fittings?s=bitspower
> 
> Its practically empty right now but who knows, maybe we can get a discount if we all band together on it.


Voted!.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> How are the new Nemesis radiators? Would the Helix fans be sufficiant enough?
> Loop: H220x and rafiator in question.
> Thanks!


I used a Black Ice Extreme 240mm and 360mm for 8 years before going with a newer rad. and went with a Nemesis L-Series 360mm and a Nemesis GTX360 and both are working out great in my new build...
These are both low RPM fan rads. and the Arctic Cooling F12's I'm using in push/pull are doing a good job.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

I know its kind of simple and maybe overkill for just a CPU but i'm building this to expand. I want a nice triple for the front and my video card doesn't give me the room I need. So as a result, I fell in love with the new AMD nano cards. Once I get my hands on a couple of those and get water blocks for them, I'll expand.


----------



## Brulf

so any thoughts on this because im not having much luck at all at the moment.... issues with dye seperating so stripped all the loop down cleaned it all again with distilled and made sure nothign could be contaminated then went with a premix justt to avoid ph issues now when the system is turned off over night all the low points gather what ever that is and remixes when the pump turns back on...


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I WISH!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


Is this close enough for you http://ldcooling.com/shop/ld-pc-v2/191-ld-pc-v2-phase-change-black-xl-suction.html


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Is this close enough for you http://ldcooling.com/shop/ld-pc-v2/191-ld-pc-v2-phase-change-black-xl-suction.html


Thats not that big either, it almost makes me want one.

I bet it could be mounted internally in one of these http://www.caselabs-store.com/pedestal-mercury-s8-and-s8s/ if one wall was modded a little bit.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Ok cool, thanks.
> 
> Ill post this then: https://www.massdrop.com/vote/watercooling-rigid-fittings?s=bitspower
> 
> Its practically empty right now but who knows, maybe we can get a discount if we all band together on it.


Would be pretty sick if MD got into watercooling stuff.

I doubt it, but voted for sure!


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Would be pretty sick if MD got into watercooling stuff.
> 
> I doubt it, but voted for sure!


Its already big with Mech Keyboards and high end audio. I think we could bring watercooling to massdrop if we just had a big enough community push.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> so any thoughts on this because im not having much luck at all at the moment.... issues with dye seperating so stripped all the loop down cleaned it all again with distilled and made sure nothign could be contaminated then went with a premix justt to avoid ph issues now *when the system is turned off over night all the low points gather what ever that is and remixes when the pump turns back on...*


Clean with distilled only won't be enough to clean the radiator properly. Likely the pH issue will come back.

Using premix will not avoid the pH issue. It still pH sensitive.

*That's normal.*

P/S: Video is private. Can't watch.


----------



## IT Diva

Thought I'd post a few pics of my Core X9 Snow Edition build, since it's actually starting to look pretty cool.

Still have a little ways to go, but the grunt work is pretty much done and I'm just about on the home stretch . . .

















Darlene


----------



## OGBeandip

That looks great. Have you considered repainting the motherboard to match the rest of the build?


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Clean with distilled only won't be enough to clean the radiator properly. Likely the pH issue will come back.
> 
> Using premix will not avoid the pH issue. It still pH sensitive.
> 
> *That's normal.*
> 
> P/S: Video is private. Can't watch.


woops didnt realize video was private, but if you say thats normal then well maybe im worrying about nothing i just didnt it was normal...


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought I'd post a few pics of my Core X9 Snow Edition build, since it's actually starting to look pretty cool.
> 
> Still have a little ways to go, but the grunt work is pretty much done and I'm just about on the home stretch . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Well......pretty much no reason at all for me to post another pic again. That looks fantastic.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought I'd post a few pics of my Core X9 Snow Edition build, since it's actually starting to look pretty cool.
> 
> Still have a little ways to go, but the grunt work is pretty much done and I'm just about on the home stretch . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


That res...












Fantastic work as always!


----------



## kuppaz88

Here's an update on my project. Acrylic tubes and clear acetal pump top come in around Wednesday. Sleeved PSU extensions should be here in a week or so. Can't wait to start playing with the acrylic for the first time.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Liking the green & white


----------



## kuppaz88

Thanks! I havent seen many with that color scheme so I was a little worried how it would turn out, but now that it's done I love it.


----------



## sinnedone

Is performance pc's website down for anyone else?


----------



## dbudd424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Is performance pc's website down for anyone else?


Is it down is showing them as down right now.

Performance-pcs.com Server Status Check
Performance-pcsWebsite Name:
www.performance-pcs.comURL Checked:
no responseResponse Time:
unknownLast Down:
DOWN
Performance-pcs.com is DOWN
It is not just you. The server is not responding...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Is performance pc's website down for anyone else?


Looks like Frozen hacked them. I've tried to get in an all I get, thus far is nada.









"If I can't get eTail biz, then NOBODY will." ~MFjr.







lol

Guess I won't be updating my cart today.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Is performance pc's website down for anyone else?


Yea... I got nothing.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Slower than usual, but back up for me.


----------



## sinnedone

Its back up now but really slow as VSG said. WOnder whats going on with them over there.

I was about to drive over there being I put a small order in this past weekend.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Its back up now but really slow as VSG said. WOnder whats going on with them over there.
> 
> I was about to drive over there being I put a small order in this past weekend.


Maybe the Server is watercooled and Sprang a Leak?









TCO


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Maybe the site went down just for a few minutes, but people freaked out, told their friends, and are now technically ddos'ing the server by trying to view the website all at the same time.


----------



## sinnedone

Nah, started yesterday


----------



## Ceadderman

lol.









Worked fine from my Mobile last night. Other than multiply adding things when I just want one.









Resigning myself to wait til I am at work now.









~Ceadder


----------



## v1ral

Swiftech mcr320xp or Nemesis GTS 360mm radiator with Helix fans?

I'm pressed on GPU space*GTX 970 G1 Gaming* radiator will be pushing air from the outside on my Air540 case.


----------



## alltheGHz

Does anyone have any recommendations for what res/pump combo to get? I want it to be a combo to reduce the amount of fittings needed, and IMO it looks cleaner. Preferably I would like it to be a bay res/pump, but a regular one woukld be nice. It cant be too expensive, though. is anyone selling one or have and recommendations?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Must have been due to their sale they were running, but the site is up and running for me (PPC's)


----------



## SteezyTN

Yeah I placed my order for my second res/pump and other stuff for $400 on Saturday. When I saw the site wasn't working I was creaking out because of the frozenCPU problem lol


----------



## deadwidesmile

I Love my EK DCP 4.0. It's a bit harder to mount up but it's do quiet.


----------



## OGBeandip

Now this is one sexy reservoir


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah those redharbinger full metal jackets are sexy, too bad they have the issues they do. supposedly they worked something out with primochill for the future, but I haven't heard any news of this for quite some time. and since then the company has changed hands it seems.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yeah those redharbinger full metal jackets are sexy, too bad they have the issues they do. supposedly they worked something out with primochill for the future, but I haven't heard any news of this for quite some time. and since then the company has changed hands it seems.


issues?


----------



## OGBeandip

You guys probably can help me with this. I want to mix Mayhems pastel coolants to get a "Nvidia Green" color. Think of the geforce LED on the side of the higher end blower coolers, thats the color I am aiming for.

What colors should I pickup?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Now this is one sexy reservoir


Looks kinda like mine.










I really like those res covers nice pickup by the way.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks kinda like mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like those res covers nice pickup by the way.


Thanks, I got 2 for my buildlog.

How tall is the res youre using?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Now this is one sexy reservoir


Would love to get one of those sleeves for my TVirus Res. That would look wicked sick.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would love to get one of those sleeves for my TVirus Res. That would look wicked sick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That would look badass. I dont see many of the TVirus Reservoirs used, too bad since they look pretty sick as well.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations for what res/pump combo to get? I want it to be a combo to reduce the amount of fittings needed, and IMO it looks cleaner. Preferably I would like it to be a bay res/pump, but a regular one woukld be nice. It cant be too expensive, though. is anyone selling one or have and recommendations?


I would say get a pump seperate and than a bitspower or ek top and res combo. But that wouldn't be so cheap. Best bet is get. A ek x res ddc or d5 depending what ok you want combo. They come all together and it's around 100-150 (not bad seeing my ddc pump alone cost me 95 usd)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Very first shots testing a tent:


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Thanks, I got 2 for my buildlog.
> 
> How tall is the res youre using?


Its about 10 inches so the 250mm one I think.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Does anyone use the Farber and RGB LED kit? I have it and necessary cables, and can not get any lights to come on, and can not figure out why.

I would love to chat and get a hand in private, so I don't gunk up the forum. It is the Bluetooth version, I am connected and it says it has signal, but no lights turn on.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Does anyone use the Farber and RGB LED kit? I have it and necessary cables, and can not get any lights to come on, and can not figure out why.
> 
> I would love to chat and get a hand in private, so I don't gunk up the forum. It is the Bluetooth version, I am connected and it says it has signal, but no lights turn on.


wrong orientation of the rgb cable insert on the Fabwerk? Also, did you put the PSU molex power connector on it. Those are the 2 most likely candidates.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> wrong orientation of the rgb cable insert on the Fabwerk? Also, did you put the PSU molex power connector on it. Those are the 2 most likely candidates.


Molex is connected secure, and the blue light is on for the PCB.

The wire is also installed with arrows lined up and all.


----------



## Ductien2112

It takes long long time to complete this build










Detailed here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1567811/build-log-corsair-900d-american-native-chief-version-2


----------



## Recr3ational

Guys,
I'm building a rad box when I have enough money to buy the 480mm rad.
But I was wondering if you can help me with the airflow in this thing. I quickly drew something in paint, can you tell me if its a good idea or not?


Mind my stupid paint skills lol.

Oh edit. You're seeing it from the top! so its a birds eye view of it.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys,
> I'm building a rad box when I have enough money to buy the 480mm rad.
> But I was wondering if you can help me with the airflow in this thing. I quickly drew something in paint, can you tell me if its a good idea or not?
> 
> 
> Mind my stupid paint skills lol.
> 
> Oh edit. You're seeing it from the top! so its a birds eye view of it.


Should work, you're gonna have some re-circulation, but you can minimise that by adding some (low-speed) fans at the exhaust side


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Should work, you're gonna have some re-circulation, but you can minimise that by adding some (low-speed) fans at the exhaust side


Okay, that's fine. So having that fan against the other 7 isn't going to cause an issue?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You might want to go back and fix the GPU plumbing. . . . Before you kill them . . . .
> 
> The pic is a bit fuzzy, but from what I see . . . .
> 
> You have them tubed in parallel, but have the in and out connections like they were in serial . . .
> 
> As you have them configured, . . . .
> 
> You'll get no flow thru either of them . . . It just comes in at the bottom rear, and flows right thru to the CPU
> 
> For parallel, . . . Move either the top or bottom connection, but not both, to the forward port.
> 
> For serial, . . . Just remove the rear connection between the GPUs.
> 
> It looks like it will be a lot easier to go with serial, as you'll only have to change the setup between the GPUs, which is easy, and you can leave the in and out connections where they are.
> 
> Put your temp sensors in the ports where you take out the rear connection between the GPUs, and plugs where the sensors are now in the front GPU ports.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Edited to add thoughts for making an easy fix . . .


Yea thats a good point...I fixed it now but the VRM was mad hot when it ran...I can't believe i didn't see that water follows the path of least resistance.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Should work, you're gonna have some re-circulation, but you can minimise that by adding some (low-speed) fans at the exhaust side
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, that's fine. So having that fan against the other 7 isn't going to cause an issue?
Click to expand...

Define "against"... if you are building it all so tight that everything is touching, maybe. But if you build it right it shouldn't be an issue.

Now, since the opposing fans/rads are going to create a very turbulent -but not necessarily fast moving- zone, having an exhaust fan (where the pump is) is gonna help to "project" the hot air further away from the intakes, thus reducing re-cycling.

OR

You can use much longer panels/walls towards the exhaust end and save a fan or two.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Anyone have experience with the Bitspower board/CPU blocks? The "Thor", "Baldur" and "Bragi"?

I just picked up a "Bragi" for the X99 build up. MSI X99S Plus, 5960x and Corsair Vengence LPX. Just curious if the "Bragi" has any feedback. I couldn't find anything, heh.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Define "against"... if you are building it all so tight that everything is touching, maybe. But if you build it right it shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> Now, since the opposing fans/rads are going to create a very turbulent -but not necessarily fast moving- zone, having an exhaust fan (where the pump is) is gonna help to "project" the hot air further away from the intakes, thus reducing re-cycling.
> 
> OR
> 
> You can use much longer panels/walls towards the exhaust end and save a fan or two.


Thing is, it has to be the size of my 600t. As its going under it. All I'm worried about is having 7 intakes and only having one exhaust is going to cause problems. I'm not very familiar with airflow as much as most of you guys here are.

Anyway. REP+
Thanks for your help.
I'll see what I can do with the room I have.


----------



## Ceadderman

Do you still have 1 exhaust and is it pointing in their direction of your Radiators?

Shouldn't be an issue. Especially with that extra fan in between them blowing air out. Airflow like water, mixes and goes to the path of least resistance.









Toddling off to work now.









~Ceadder


----------



## Recr3ational

Scratch my last post. Have to rethink...


----------



## SteezyTN

What thermal paste do you all recommend? I know most of them are around 1-3c difference, and even by marginal "errors". I always used AS5 when I had my H100i, but I ran out when I switched to a custom loop. Now I've been using the EK ectotherm on my CPU and two Titan X's.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What thermal paste do you all recommend? I know most of them are around 1-3c difference, and even by marginal "errors". I always used AS5 when I had my H100i, but I ran out when I switched to a custom loop. Now I've been using the EK ectotherm on my CPU and two Titan X's.


I use NT-H1, but it's probably more of a comfort thing than anything.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What thermal paste do you all recommend? I know most of them are around 1-3c difference, and even by marginal "errors". I always used AS5 when I had my H100i, but I ran out when I switched to a custom loop. Now I've been using the EK ectotherm on my CPU and two Titan X's.


Whatever is laying around,a combo of Gelid,EK,MX2,Thermal grizzly (recent test paste) and a bit of CLU normally.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I've heard really good things about CL liquid copper. Plus it's like $7 on ppc.com

I second what b-neg said. If you have any laying around just use that. Don't use if diamond on your gpu or any bare die. Also if you used ek blocks I believe they put gelid gc extreme in their kits.

By the way. New build COMPLETE!



Still debating whether or not to get the mosfet block for the Gene.


----------



## OGBeandip

Heh. Maybe I should do an aluminum hardline build one of these days. These bends dont look too bad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Heh. Maybe I should do an aluminum hardline build one of these days. These bends dont look too bad.


OOOH Do EEEET!

I have not seen a loop eat itself in ages.

Post pics of the horror yes?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Heh. Maybe I should do an aluminum hardline build one of these days. These bends dont look too bad.


Aluminum doesn't go well with coolants and even water.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> OOOH Do EEEET!
> 
> I have not seen a loop eat itself in ages.
> 
> Post pics of the horror yes?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Aluminum doesn't go well with coolants and even water.


Weird. At work Ive got a system using aluminum piping running RO water. Its been going 10+ years without issue. No corrosion or anything.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Aluminum doesn't go well with coolants and even water.


Something I found pretty interesting if you guys are up for a read.

http://www.totalmateria.com/page.aspx?ID=CheckArticle&site=ktn&NM=187
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Weird. At work Ive got a system using aluminum piping running RO water. Its been going 10+ years without issue. No corrosion or anything.


Are you sure it's pure aluminum? Even if it is, al exposed to a specific ph range around neutral will form an oxidative coat that is relatively stable. I still wouldn't take the chance because there's stuff in most loops that cause minor redox reactions that can cause corrosion in the long run.

The reaction of aluminum and water to produce aluminum hydroxide and elemental hydrogen requires a spark and is volatile but this same reaction can still occur in a non explosive nature over time, that produces very minute amounts of these products which can still result in corrosion over time. However if salts are present the cavitation and pitting type of corrosion can still occur.

Long story short the water despite being reverse osmosis water may still pick up solutes that can cause the corrosion.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Something I found pretty interesting if you guys are up for a read.
> 
> http://www.totalmateria.com/page.aspx?ID=CheckArticle&site=ktn&NM=187
> Are you sure it's pure aluminum? Even if it is, al exposed to a specific ph range around neutral will form an oxidative coat that is relatively stable. I still wouldn't take the chance because there's stuff in most loops that cause minor redox reactions that can cause corrosion in the long run.


Interesting read. Ive got books full of stuff like this on steel, copper, brass, nickel, various stainless steel alloys, and aluminum.

I would link it if I had a method of making them digital

Also it is not 100% aluminum. I cant remember the exact alloy but ill try and dig up the book that came with the pipe tomorrow. It included the full composition of the alloy including its heat treatment. I do remember the allot is primarily aluminum

Surprisingly our most corrosive loop is stainless steel. And we do weekly tests for microorganisms, debris, and any other pollutant in all of our water systems.

The aluminum system gets slight corrosion from high acid contents but its mostly just pitting. At which point small maintenance is needed. At least for our industrial application aluminum doesnt seem to have many issues.

I will say that copper and brass works flawlessly for us though. The only issue with it is discoloration over time.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Interesting read. Ive got books full of stuff like this on steel, copper, brass, nickel, various stainless steel alloys, and aluminum.
> 
> I would link it if I had a method of making them digital
> 
> Also it is not 100% aluminum. I cant remember the exact alloy but ill try and dig up the book that came with the pipe tomorrow. It included the full composition of the alloy including its heat treatment. I do remember the allot is primarily aluminum
> 
> Surprisingly our most corrosive loop is stainless steel. And we do weekly tests for microorganisms, debris, and any other pollutant in all of our water systems.


Yea it's possible that if it's an alloy then it has elements that help limit the oxidation. Not to mention the best type of aluminum hardline would be one they either was aluminum throughout with a sacrificial anode like a galvanic zinc coating, or if there was some way to anodize acrylic so that only the exterior surface was aluminum, or a way to impregnate the acrylic during formation so that it was only present throughout the acrylic rather than on the surface.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea it's possible that if it's an alloy then it has elements that help limit the oxidation. Not to mention the best type of aluminum hardline would be one they either was aluminum throughout with a sacrificial anode like a galvanic zinc coating, or if there was some way to anodize acrylic so that only the exterior surface was aluminum, or a way to impregnate the acrylic during formation so that it was only present throughout the acrylic rather than on the surface.


Ill see if I can dig up the booklet on it tomorrow. It might be in the supervisors filing cabinet.

Im interested to know what the alloy is now.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What thermal paste do you all recommend? I know most of them are around 1-3c difference, and even by marginal "errors". I always used AS5 when I had my H100i, but I ran out when I switched to a custom loop. Now I've been using the EK ectotherm on my CPU and two Titan X's.


I like Shin Etsu G751. ~8hr burn time and immediate use rather than 8 day burn time and no immediate feedback to tell me if I need to re-apply it.

Check my sig for a review of 80 Thermal pastes. It's an old review but it covers more than the newer reviews do. If you need to find out more information, I suggest using this review and compare it with the newer reviews to get a more accurate picture of which is best.









On the Aluminium tubing, to quote the great philosopher 'Frankie Goes to Hollywood'...






You don't want anything to do with Aluminium in your loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like Shin Etsu G751. ~8hr burn time and immediate use rather than 8 day burn time and no immediate feedback to tell me if I need to re-apply it.
> 
> Check my sig for a review of 80 Thermal pastes. It's an old review but it covers more than the newer reviews do. If you need to find out more information, I suggest using this review and compare it with the newer reviews to get a more accurate picture of which is best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the Aluminium tubing, to quote the great philosopher 'Frankie Goes to Hollywood'...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't want anything to do with Aluminium in your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its an aluminum alloy and based on 10+ years of testing with RO water has very low corrosion. It only corroded when acid is introduced into the system, in which case it gets pitting.


----------



## Domler

Hey guys. I have been running mayhems x1 uv blue for three weeks and want to switch it out for non uv. Will mayhems blitz clean it out good enough? Or is there something else I should do. Thanks


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Whatever is laying around,a combo of Gelid,EK,MX2,Thermal grizzly (recent test paste) and a bit of CLU normally.


How are you finding the Thermal grizzly?


----------



## deadwidesmile

Alright you far more experienced fella's... what's the best way to swap colors in a water loop? I'm currently running red and white and 2 different loops. I'm going to be upgrading to a X99 platform and motherboard waterblock. I want to switch from red (CPU) and white (GPU's) to blue (CPU) and green (GPU). Any advice on cleaning everything out? Should I completely remove and scrub/wash everything outside of the system or should I just flush the system like 9 billion times?

Totally biting off of TCO on the coolant colors sadly.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Alright you far more experienced fella's... what's the best way to swap colors in a water loop? I'm currently running red and white and 2 different loops. I'm going to be upgrading to a X99 platform and motherboard waterblock. I want to switch from red (CPU) and white (GPU's) to blue (CPU) and green (GPU). Any advice on cleaning everything out? Should I completely remove and scrub/wash everything outside of the system or should I just flush the system like 9 billion times?


Im no expert. But usually i drain it and flush with Distilled water 6+ times. Depends on how long the loop was in service. Then I change tube if it is stained from the previous coolant and dyes. I havent had any issues doing it that way.


----------



## OGBeandip

Im building a black and green themed build. First coolant color is a brighter green color that matches the geforce logo on the side of nvidia coolers.

Should I do just 1 color or should the second loop be a different color?
And does anybody have ideas for what color that should be? I cant make a decision. Its hardline 12mm OD tube.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Im building a black and green themed build. First coolant color is a brighter green color that matches the geforce logo on the side of nvidia coolers.
> 
> Should I do just 1 color or should the second loop be a different color?
> And does anybody have ideas for what color that should be? I cant make a decision. Its hardline 12mm OD tube.


Maybe black? Just a thought.


----------



## Domler

Silver? Dark grey would look cool.


----------



## Radnad

white


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Silver? Dark grey would look cool.


I think youre the winning idea there. Dark gray would look pretty good.

Ill upload a picture of the build here in a few weeks once its done before I add coolant and make my decision then.

Thanks for the ideas guys!


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I think youre the winning idea there. Dark gray would look pretty good.
> 
> Ill upload a picture of the build here in a few weeks once its done before I add coolant and make my decision then.
> 
> Thanks for the ideas guys!


My guess would be to give mayhems blitz a try to clean out any residual out of the rads.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like Shin Etsu G751. ~8hr burn time and immediate use rather than 8 day burn time and no immediate feedback to tell me if I need to re-apply it.
> 
> Check my sig for a review of 80 Thermal pastes. It's an old review but it covers more than the newer reviews do. If you need to find out more information, I suggest using this review and compare it with the newer reviews to get a more accurate picture of which is best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the Aluminium tubing, to quote the great philosopher 'Frankie Goes to Hollywood'...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't want anything to do with Aluminium in your loop.


Lol that video was made before i was born, and I'm an old soul.

I think this list needs to be updated...i looked at it and i didn't see liquid copper. Don't get me wrong, it's a great list, but i think there's a few that came out since 2009

Also from what i read, Al is a no no for anything that comes into contact with CLU as well. I think one person used it with the stock Intel heatsink, and there was aluminum that got eaten away. According to Wikipedia, liquid metal is actually able to dissolve metals at room temp. Possibly due to the literal sea of metal ions being able to strip solid Al's ions away.

Here's the article. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_metal


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Alright you far more experienced fella's... what's the best way to swap colors in a water loop? I'm currently running red and white and 2 different loops. I'm going to be upgrading to a X99 platform and motherboard waterblock. I want to switch from red (CPU) and white (GPU's) to blue (CPU) and green (GPU). Any advice on cleaning everything out? Should I completely remove and scrub/wash everything outside of the system or should I just flush the system like 9 billion times?
> 
> 
> 
> Im no expert. But usually i drain it and flush with Distilled water 6+ times. Depends on how long the loop was in service. Then I change tube if it is stained from the previous coolant and dyes. I havent had any issues doing it that way.
Click to expand...

I would use heated distilled (No hotter than 63c) and run it through their loop until they temp stabilizes at mimimum operative temp, probably 3 to 4 times. It should remove excess dye from their loop. Take apart the blocks to inspect for plasticizer (if flexible tubing exists in their loop) and left over dye deposits.

Or use phase 2 of them blitz kit.









~Ceadder


----------



## kuppaz88

Has anybody worked with the primo chill rigid revolver fittings and primo chills Petg tubing? I'm having some issues. The tubes seem to come out rather easily while putting this together. I thought they were supposed to be pretty sturdy and get held tightly. Am I doing something wrong? Are they even the right fittings? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuppaz88*
> 
> Has anybody worked with the primo chill rigid revolver fittings and primo chills Petg tubing? I'm having some issues. The tubes seem to come out rather easily while putting this together. I thought they were supposed to be pretty sturdy and get held tightly. Am I doing something wrong? Are they even the right fittings? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


I use those exact items. Do you have the oring in place?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I think this list needs to be updated...i looked at it and i didn't see liquid copper. Don't get me wrong, it's a great list, but i think there's a few that came out since 2009


Here's a more recent one: http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/


----------



## kuppaz88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I use those exact items. Do you have the oring in place?


Yes I put the fitting on the tube then the o ring. Then I slide the fitting down and tighten it. But the tube seems loose and pulls out rather easily. I'm assuming the water pressure will easily pop it out.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuppaz88*
> 
> Yes I put the fitting on the tube then the o ring. Then I slide the fitting down and tighten it. But the tube seems loose and pulls out rather easily. I'm assuming the water pressure will easily pop it out.


Hmm. I don't have any issues like that. Mine fit snug. Can you show us a picture?


----------



## kuppaz88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hmm. I don't have any issues like that. Mine fit snug. Can you show us a picture?


I can tomorrow. It might also be the run...I'm going to retry that peice and see if I get the same result. I will let you know. Thanks!!!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuppaz88*
> 
> I can tomorrow. It might also be the run...I'm going to retry that peice and see if I get the same result. I will let you know. Thanks!!!


Try and take a regular piece of the PETG (non bends or anything done to it) and insert it into the fitting. What's your results?


----------



## kuppaz88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Try and take a regular piece of the PETG (non bends or anything done to it) and insert it into the fitting. What's your results?


I connected a tube to my res and filled it up....no leaks. I think it was that specific run. To much of an angle/pressure on the tube and fitting. I've gotta get some sleep so I will play with it more tomorrow. Thanks again!


----------



## By-Tor

While TDY (Temp Duty) to Europe back in the mid 80's this was huge in a lot of clubs.. Brings back some interesting memories..... Thanks for stirring them up again...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Sorry I have been gone for a day or so. I played a ton of Civ V yesterday after I picked up over 100$ of DLC for 12$ on Steam. Epic Stuff.

TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sorry I have been gone for a day or so. I played a ton of Civ V yesterday after I picked up over 100$ of DLC for 12$ on Steam. Epic Stuff.
> 
> TCO


Nice deal. Civ V is amazing with all the DLC


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Nice deal. Civ V is amazing with all the DLC


I think I picked up Civ V for 40$? Maybe a couple years ago. But then my brother saw the DLC on sale so I duped me into getting it. I am very pleased.

I ordered the Processor for "Southern Persuasion" and am just awaiting it's arrival. I have most of the fittings I need but, I think I might actually bend some tubing this time around









The Thought Scares me as usual. I Prefer to freehand all bends, and the S3 will require a couple.









TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think I picked up Civ V for 40$? Maybe a couple years ago. But then my brother saw the DLC on sale so I duped me into getting it. I am very pleased.
> 
> I ordered the Processor for "Southern Persuasion" and am just awaiting it's arrival. I have most of the fittings I need but, I think I might actually bend some tubing this time around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Thought Scares me as usual. I Prefer to freehand all bends, and the S3 will require a couple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Well if youre ever down for a multiplayer full dlc game pm me.

And Ill have to come check that out. Are you bending PETG or acrylic?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/ey5rW1Rvj

https://imageshack.com/i/eyce3y5oj

Time for a colour change i think.


----------



## fast_fate




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Well if youre ever down for a multiplayer full dlc game pm me.
> 
> And Ill have to come check that out. Are you bending PETG or acrylic?


I will do that!

I am bending Acrylic Bitspower 12mm Crystal Link.

TCO


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I will do that!
> 
> I am bending Acrylic Bitspower 12mm Crystal Link.
> 
> TCO


Go with PETG, much easier in cutting and bending.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> Go with PETG, much easier in cutting and bending.


Whats the fun without a Challenge?

TCO


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Whats the fun without a Challenge?
> 
> TCO


Cuz you can cut PETG with this instead of having to use a hacksaw and sand paper only to find out you messed up and need to start all over.

But hey if you want the challenge the go for it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> Cuz you can cut PETG with this instead of having to use a hacksaw and sand paper only to find out you messed up and need to start all over.
> 
> But hey if you want the challenge the go for it.


So the benefit of having PETG is just how you cut it?

TCO


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So the benefit of having PETG is just how you cut it?
> 
> TCO


That and the fact that it is way more durable.

Jayztwocents made a pretty great video on this

His one complaint is when you go to debur the PETG it makes it rough but if you use the tool there's no need for it and only need to debur to clean out the inside. If you want you can also get a fine sandpaper and pass it over briefly just to smooth it out more.

The bitspower PETG even says you don't need to chamfer or debur it.


----------



## mus1mus

Acrylic still looks better up close IMO. And worth the fun.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> That and the fact that it is way more durable.
> 
> Jayztwocents made a pretty great video on this
> 
> His one complaint is when you go to debur the PETG it makes it rough but if you use the tool there's no need for it and only need to debur to clean out the inside. If you want you can also get a fine sandpaper and pass it over briefly just to smooth it out more.
> 
> The bitspower PETG even says you don't need to chamfer or debur it.


Wow... Well I guess I would have a valid reason to switch if Someone walked around with a Hammer in my house trying to smash clear objects I suppose. Good video though. Very Informative.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Acrylic still looks better up close IMO. And worth the fun.


Correct!

TCO


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Acrylic still looks better up close IMO. And worth the fun.


I have both and have used both, you can't tell a difference between the two unless you cut them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> That and the fact that it is way more durable.
> 
> Jayztwocents made a pretty great video on this
> 
> His one complaint is when you go to debur the PETG it makes it rough but if you use the tool there's no need for it and only need to debur to clean out the inside. If you want you can also get a fine sandpaper and pass it over briefly just to smooth it out more.
> 
> The bitspower PETG even says you don't need to chamfer or debur it.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow... Well I guess I would have a valid reason to switch if *Someone walked around with a Hammer in my house trying to smash clear objects I suppose*. Good video though. Very Informative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Acrylic still looks better up close IMO. And worth the fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Correct!
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Ta DAAAAA!

Exactly.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Acrylic still looks better up close IMO. And worth the fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both and have used both, you can't tell a difference between the two unless you cut them.
Click to expand...

I too have both and I wrote the book on Acrylic bending.......

If PETG is so amazing,please explain why there are no block tops,pump tops or res made from it? For me,the work time is faaaar too long,the clarity is nothing special and it can be cold bent,not a desirable characteristic for compression based sealing.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> I have both and have used both, you can't tell a difference between the two unless you cut them.


Not so sure about that, man. My Primochill PETG has lines/grooves parallel to the tube that can be seen up close. While Acrylic pretty much has a smoother surface all round.

PETG also has a bluish tint in them. Note of the ends. Can never polished. And all.

BNeg beat me into the rest.









The only reason I have the PETG is price and length availability when I ordered mine.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> I have both and have used both, you can't tell a difference between the two unless you cut them.


If the Acrlyic and PETG both have burs after sanding..... it's the same principal.

I have a long nail that I scrape the inside of the Acrylic with and take out the inside Burs. Then sand the outside of the Acrylic to be a smooth insert to the Fitting.

TCO

Just a process. "Elbow Grease" I believe they call it from time to time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I just watched that video and i swear i can feel tumors forming....

What a crazy amount of BS in that vid....

Also...


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If the Acrlyic and PETG both have burs after sanding..... it's the same principal.
> 
> I have a long nail that I scrape the inside of the Acrylic with and take out the inside Burs. Then sand the outside of the Acrylic to be a smooth insert to the Fitting.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Just a process. "Elbow Grease" I believe they call it from time to time.


The petg doesnt have burs on the inside and you don't need to sand it. Passing the sandpaper is your choice as its not required when you use the proper tool to cut it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> The petg doesnt have burs on the inside and you don't need to sand it. Passing the sandpaper is your choice as its not required when you use the proper tool to cut it.












I have 2 x 19" Tubes of Acrylic at the House.

TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

I still cant decide if I want to do acrylic or PETG. Its my first hardline and the ease of cutting PETG appeals to me. But the clarity and reputation of acrylic does as well.

The big thing for me is ease of bending and cutting as Ill be doing it by hand.

The only pipe bending experience I have is with copper, aluminum alloy, and stainless steel. No plastics.


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ta DAAAAA!
> 
> Exactly.....
> I too have both and I wrote the book on Acrylic bending.......
> 
> If PETG is so amazing,please explain why there are no block tops,pump tops or res made from it? For me,the work time is faaaar too long,the clarity is nothing special and it can be cold bent,not a desirable characteristic for compression based sealing.


You're comparing apples and oranges. We are talking about tubing not blocks. Last I checked nobody is trying to bend a block.

Far to long? Acrylic easily takes much longer to work with being you have to chamfer it so you don't chew up your o-rings. You can cold bend acrylic as well but when you do it snaps into shards everywhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not so sure about that, man. My Primochill PETG has lines/grooves parallel to the tube that can be seen up close. While Acrylic pretty much has a smoother surface all round.
> 
> PETG also has a bluish tint in them. Note of the ends. Can never polished. And all.
> 
> BNeg beat me into the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason I have the PETG is price and length availability when I ordered mine.


It could be just the primochill. I have the bitspower petg and didn't notice a tint. The tubing in Jayztwocents video is primochill as well. Also why would you want to polish petg, it's already clear.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> *You're comparing apples and oranges.*




TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ta DAAAAA!
> 
> Exactly.....
> I too have both and I wrote the book on Acrylic bending.......
> 
> If PETG is so amazing,please explain why there are no block tops,pump tops or res made from it? For me,the work time is faaaar too long,the clarity is nothing special and it can be cold bent,not a desirable characteristic for compression based sealing.
> 
> 
> 
> You're comparing apples and oranges. We are talking about tubing not blocks. Last I checked nobody is trying to bend a block.
> 
> Far to long? Acrylic easily takes much longer to work with being you have to chamfer it so you don't chew up your o-rings. You can cold bend acrylic as well but when you do it snaps into shards everywhere.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not so sure about that, man. My Primochill PETG has lines/grooves parallel to the tube that can be seen up close. While Acrylic pretty much has a smoother surface all round.
> 
> PETG also has a bluish tint in them. Note of the ends. Can never polished. And all.
> 
> BNeg beat me into the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason I have the PETG is price and length availability when I ordered mine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It could be just the primochill. I have the bitspower petg and didn't notice a tint. The tubing in Jayztwocents video is primochill as well. Also why would you want to polish petg, it's already clear.
Click to expand...

No,you are wrong,acrylic takes longer to heat but cools significantly faster making it faster overall. It takes seconds to chamfer so that is not even a consideration.
We are actually talking about materials,not the product of use. You are comparing the reletive performance metrics of 2 comparable materials.

All he does in that video is regurgitate Primochills marketing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,you are wrong,acrylic takes longer to heat but cools significantly faster making it faster overall. *It takes seconds to chamfer so that is not even a consideration.*
> We are actually talking about materials,not the product of use. You are comparing the reletive performance metrics of 2 comparable materials.
> 
> All he does in that video is regurgitate Primochills marketing.


Exactly.

TCO


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,you are wrong,acrylic takes longer to heat but cools significantly faster making it faster overall. It takes seconds to chamfer so that is not even a consideration.
> We are actually talking about materials,not the product of use. You are comparing the reletive performance metrics of 2 comparable materials.
> 
> All he does in that video is regurgitate Primochills marketing.


That's why everyone who says they have worked with PETG they were able to cut and bend faster then acrylic.

These guys even compare the two and say it took half the time for them to heat and bend.

Seconds maybe if your chamfering and sanding with a dremel. Not everyone here has a workshop or the tools so most have to do it the old fashioned way with sandpaper.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> That's why everyone who says they have worked with PETG they were able to cut and bend faster then acrylic.
> 
> These guys even compare the two and say it took half the time for them to heat and bend.
> 
> *Seconds maybe if your chamfering and sanding with a dremel. Not everyone here has a workshop or the tools so most have to do it the old fashioned way with sandpaper.*


No. That's not the Reason.

I chamfered over 20+ Tubes for "The Division" and never spent more than 5 seconds a side with sandpaper and my muscles. It doesn't take a power tool or Magic to get it right quick.

TCO

Now Polishing Ek waterblocks are a different story. Better Grab a couple monsters and cry in the corner a little while before you start that project


----------



## larainzlo07

Well since you're convinced with acrylic you can have mine if you want being that I live and work about 5 minutes away from you.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

*Sigh*

I bet that Kool Aid tastes good.......

There is absolutely nothing wrong with acrylic tube,if you want to use PETG then thats all good but I wouldnt advise the strongarming in here of all places....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> Well since you're convinced with acrylic you can have mine if you want being that I live and work about 5 minutes away from you.


I appreciate that and See that you are near









Keep the Acrylic, In case the PETG doesn't fit the Bill.









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just watched that video and i swear i can feel tumors forming....
> 
> What a crazy amount of BS in that vid....
> 
> Also...


I believe that JayZTwoCents dunking tubing in water has adverse effects on the acylic. If he were to simply let it cool on its own it shouldn't be so brittle. It's acrylic not steel.









I will go with PETG because it's all I can get thru Performance atm and since I am using white tubing don't care much about clarity and "bluish" tinting you get with the clear tubing.









+Rep for the vid.









~Ceadder


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Sigh*
> 
> I bet that Kool Aid tastes good.......
> 
> There is absolutely nothing wrong with acrylic tube,if you want to use PETG then thats all good but I wouldnt advise the strongarming in here of all places....


The Kool Aid does taste good. Honestly who doesn't like grape.

I never said there was anything wrong with acrylic. All I did was present the option of PETG of it being easier to cut and bend. If you interpreted it as strong arming then I apologize.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I appreciate that and See that you are near
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep the Acrylic, In case the PETG doesn't fit the Bill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


No seriously if you want it you can have it. I won't be going back to it.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No. That's not the Reason.
> 
> I chamfered over 20+ Tubes for "The Division" and never spent more than 5 seconds a side with sandpaper and my muscles. It doesn't take a power tool or Magic to get it right quick.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Now Polishing Ek waterblocks are a different story. Better Grab a couple monsters and cry in the corner a little while before you start that project


if you can even get that far! its a pain to find some of the finer grits

GOOD TIMES


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Sigh*
> 
> I bet that Kool Aid tastes good.......
> 
> *There is absolutely nothing wrong with acrylic tube,if you want to use PETG then thats all good but I wouldnt advise the strongarming in here of all places....*


This.

Does anyone even know which one I used? Does it matter? (before someone responds, No it doesn't) I don't see what all the fuss is except "SoAndSo championed this tubing on YouTube so I now I *have to* preach it!" I'm a fan of Jay but I've never cringed as hard as when he made that video.


----------



## Gabrielzm

On other news did not realized that intel was launching skylake and new chipset today. Not much missed anyway

http://www.anandtech.com/show/9483/intel-skylake-review-6700k-6600k-ddr4-ddr3-ipc-6th-generation/23


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> if you can even get that far! its a pain to find some of the finer grits
> 
> GOOD TIMES


Some of the Finer Grits? Like What? 2000, 3000 Grit?

I can get mine at the autopart store in town.

TCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> No seriously if you want it you can have it. I won't be going back to it.


I am ok. If we would have had this discussion about your dislike of acrylic before I planned my current S3 build, I would have gladly gotten it off of you.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I couldn't find anything past 2500 and what I could find was a polishing wheel, it was fairly surprising actually since I went to an automotive paint supply


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I couldn't find anything past 2500 and what I could find was a polishing wheel, it was fairly surprising actually since I went to an automotive paint supply


You know.... I think I saw over 3000, but I normally only buy up to 2000 (As per Lowfats Early Polish guide, He revamped his method a tad in the past month or So)

So I wasn't looking for 3000 Plus.









And you went to an Auto Paint shop? That is peculiar.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

look at Meg's Headlamp kit,1500,2000,3000 and 4000 grit pads in those.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well, fter everything, its best just top buy it off amazon..


----------



## RickRockerr

There are tons of "are my temps normal" posts but I'm going to post another one.








I have 4790K clocked to 4.8Ghz @ 1.28V and 980Ti @ 1500Ghz. Chipset and MB VRM are also in the loop.
Loop: 2x 30mm thick 240 rads and one 45mm thick 240 rad. 45mm rad is push/pull and 30mm rads push only. All fans are Corsair SP performance editions.
When I'm playing Bf4 cpu temp stays around 60°C and GPU around 55°C. For me that seems little bit high because my last watercooled setup temps where 58°C on CPU and 45/48°C on GPUs with 2x 280 rads. But cannot compare two setups with different hardware








Pump is D5 with EK top running ~2000rmp almost everytime. Fans runs at 50% on load. I have 144HZ display so GPU have to work little bit harder than with 60HZ display. Ambient temperature is around 26-27°C
I'm not sure if I whrite this clear enough to understand









E: those temps are with closed case and only one corsair AF 140 fan to push the hot air out of the case. If I keep case open temps are about 3°C lower.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> There are tons of "are my temps normal" posts but I'm going to post another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4790K clocked to 4.8Ghz @ 1.28V and 980Ti @ 1500Ghz. Chipset and MB VRM are also in the loop.
> Loop: 2x 30mm thick 240 rads and one 45mm thick 240 rad. 45mm rad is push/pull and 30mm rads push only. All fans are Corsair SP performance editions.
> When I'm playing Bf4 cpu temp stays around 60°C and GPU around 55°C. For me that seems little bit high because my last watercooled setup temps where 58°C on CPU and 45/48°C on GPUs with 2x 280 rads. But cannot compare two setups with different hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump is D5 with EK top running ~2000rmp almost everytime. Fans runs at 50% on load. I have 144HZ display so GPU have to work little bit harder than with 60HZ display. Ambient temperature is around 26-27°C
> I'm not sure if I whrite this clear enough to understand


do you have water temp sensor or a way to measure it? What case are you using?


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> do you have water temp sensor or a way to measure it? What case are you using?


I haven't added the temp sensor to the loop yet. Case is BitFenix prodigy.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I haven't added the temp sensor to the loop yet. Case is BitFenix prodigy.


you can have an idea of water temp by putting a thermistor on the radiator tank (externally). Or just open a port on the reservoir with the pc running and put a thermometer there (do no drop in it of course, just hold it there for while) to get the reading. That would give you an idea of the water temp; Without that piece of information is a wild guess. It could be bad block mounts, bad airflow over the rads and so on.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can have an idea of water temp by putting a thermistor on the radiator tank (externally). Or just open a port on the reservoir with the pc running and put a thermometer there (do no drop in it of course, just hold it there for while) to get the reading. That would give you an idea of the water temp; Without that piece of information is a wild guess. It could be bad block mounts, bad airflow over the rads and so on.


By touching the rad I would say that the water temp is around 45°C I'll try with IR temp gun tomorrow.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> There are tons of "are my temps normal" posts but I'm going to post another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4790K clocked to 4.8Ghz @ 1.28V and 980Ti @ 1500Ghz. Chipset and MB VRM are also in the loop.
> Loop: 2x 30mm thick 240 rads and one 45mm thick 240 rad. 45mm rad is push/pull and 30mm rads push only. All fans are Corsair SP performance editions.
> When I'm playing Bf4 cpu temp stays around 60°C and GPU around 55°C. For me that seems little bit high because my last watercooled setup temps where 58°C on CPU and 45/48°C on GPUs with 2x 280 rads. But cannot compare two setups with different hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump is D5 with EK top running ~2000rmp almost everytime. Fans runs at 50% on load. I have 144HZ display so GPU have to work little bit harder than with 60HZ display. Ambient temperature is around 26-27°C
> I'm not sure if I whrite this clear enough to understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E: those temps are with closed case and only one corsair AF 140 fan to push the hot air out of the case. If I keep case open temps are about 3°C lower.


Thats pretty high! guys are getting the same temps on air....


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Thats pretty high! guys are getting the same temps on air....


It's a Prodigy. Not ideal airflow. Not sure how to squeeze 3x240s in one but at any rate the cpu and gpu are both overclocked very high. Temps seem somewhere in the realm of normalish.


----------



## sdmf74

Seems kinda high even though your ambient is too. I doubt your loop is 45c, if so there is prolly something wrong. My loop temp is 23c right now ambient is about 18-19c. I would speed up the pump it wont help too much with temps but I know my flow is kinda weak at low rpms.
Now im curious to see how much my loop temp rises during a gaming session


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> There are tons of "are my temps normal" posts but I'm going to post another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4790K clocked to 4.8Ghz @ 1.28V and 980Ti @ 1500Ghz. Chipset and MB VRM are also in the loop.
> Loop: 2x 30mm thick 240 rads and one 45mm thick 240 rad. 45mm rad is push/pull and 30mm rads push only. All fans are Corsair SP performance editions.
> When I'm playing Bf4 cpu temp stays around 60°C and GPU around 55°C. For me that seems little bit high because my last watercooled setup temps where 58°C on CPU and 45/48°C on GPUs with 2x 280 rads. But cannot compare two setups with different hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump is D5 with EK top running ~2000rmp almost everytime. Fans runs at 50% on load. I have 144HZ display so GPU have to work little bit harder than with 60HZ display. Ambient temperature is around 26-27°C
> I'm not sure if I whrite this clear enough to understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E: those temps are with closed case and only one corsair AF 140 fan to push the hot air out of the case. If I keep case open temps are about 3°C lower.


First I would raise the pump speed on the D5. Do you feel comfortable with the temperatures would be the main question. You can bring the temps down but do you want to spend the money to bring them down. You have a over clock on the components then the temps are normal. I have a thermal nuclear reactor in my system at 4.7 to 5.0 GHZ so to me no those temps do not seem high to me. My system on the CPU sits at 56 C max loaded (never seen below 40C on Idle- No matter what amount of rads within reason) and that's pushing it to the extreme. Basically it comes down to what you are comfortable with.


----------



## sdmf74

Never below 40c on idle? I was gonna suggest you check your bios/oc settings but then I noticed you have amd cpu, They must run much warmer.

@ rickrockerr - do you have your c-staes enabled? Set fully manual to disable in bios for manual voltage oc.
If your cpu power phase control in Digi+ settings in bios are set to extreme that will cause your cpu to run hotter, set it to optimized and check the rest of those settings. A good place to start


----------



## funfordcobra

My 1st loop. From EKWB.

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/new/20150805_231809.jpg.html


----------



## kl6mk6

I used CLU on my CPU and CLMP on my GPUs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> There are tons of "are my temps normal" posts but I'm going to post another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4790K clocked to 4.8Ghz @ 1.28V and 980Ti @ 1500Ghz. Chipset and MB VRM are also in the loop.
> Loop: 2x 30mm thick 240 rads and one 45mm thick 240 rad. 45mm rad is push/pull and 30mm rads push only. All fans are Corsair SP performance editions.
> When I'm playing Bf4 cpu temp stays around 60°C and GPU around 55°C. For me that seems little bit high because my last watercooled setup temps where 58°C on CPU and 45/48°C on GPUs with 2x 280 rads. But cannot compare two setups with different hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump is D5 with EK top running ~2000rmp almost everytime. Fans runs at 50% on load. I have 144HZ display so GPU have to work little bit harder than with 60HZ display. Ambient temperature is around 26-27°C
> I'm not sure if I whrite this clear enough to understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E: those temps are with closed case and only one corsair AF 140 fan to push the hot air out of the case. If I keep case open temps are about 3°C lower.


I agree that your pump is running a little low. I run mine at 3300 rpm. It's still quieter than my fans, but moves enough water to be effective. With this warm summer weather I've been getting into the mid 50s on my GPUs while gaming. I'm happy with those temps.


----------



## Gabrielzm

I think chessboard build (after the black pastel turning into chocolate/coffee/ale pastel) will have to be renamed to jade chessboard





Oh well...I guess is a never ending build. This will postpone final configuration of chessboard in about six months. Will change the xspc rads for HWlabs sr2 MP and then switch place all black fittings for white and vice-versa. The gpus blocks look much more alive with white pastel. For awhile it will be the jade chessboard


----------



## TONSCHUH

Just a short question:

I will get my 980-Ti's earlier than the EK-Blocks are released, so I have to take my water-cooled 780-Ti's out of my loop and connect the 2 hoses from the GPU's (Bridge in and Bridge out) temporarily.

This are the fittings I use:

Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Compression Fitting - Black Sparkle (BP-BSCPF-CC2)

... and I thought I could just use this quick-connects here:

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnect Male Fitting

... and ...

Bitspower Quick Release Connector G1/4 Female Thread Matte Black

That should work, or not ?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> That and the fact that it is way more durable.
> 
> Jayztwocents made a pretty great video on this
> 
> His one complaint is when you go to debur the PETG it makes it rough but if you use the tool there's no need for it and only need to debur to clean out the inside. If you want you can also get a fine sandpaper and pass it over briefly just to smooth it out more.
> 
> The bitspower PETG even says you don't need to chamfer or debur it.


I began taking jay's videos with a grain of salt a long time ago...it's always obvious he has an agenda.

That being said, correct me if im wrong, but in the video he talks about UV dye infused PETG...i read somewhere that UV light degrades PETG, and i thought i remembered him saying that as well...Wouldnt that defeat the entire purpose of it?

Also, i wanted to get the record straight, does PETG suffer from 'evaporation' from the pores over time? I thought i read this, but im not sure. Just wanted someone to weigh in here/


----------



## OGBeandip

Hey @B NEGATIVE

Ill ask you since you seem to be the authority on acrylic.

Is it very difficult to get clean bends while hand bending acrylic? And can it be rebent if slight adjustments are needed?

Im trying to decide on PETG or Acrylic still. Itll be my first hardline PC


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's a Prodigy. Not ideal airflow. Not sure how to squeeze 3x240s in one but at any rate the cpu and gpu are both overclocked very high. Temps seem somewhere in the realm of normalish.


I mounted one 240 to the side panel of the case









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> First I would raise the pump speed on the D5. Do you feel comfortable with the temperatures would be the main question. You can bring the temps down but do you want to spend the money to bring them down. Yu have a over clock on the components then the temps are normal. I have a thermal nuclear reactor in my system at 4.7 to 5.0 GHZ so to me no those temps do not seem high to me. My system on the CPU sits at 56 C max loaded (never seen below 40C on Idle- No matter what amount of rads within reason) and that's pushing it to the extreme. Basically it comes down to what you are comfortable with.


I would like to see my gpu under 50°C but I think I'll have to wait till winter for that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> @ rickrockerr - do you have your c-staes enabled? Set fully manual to disable in bios for manual voltage oc.
> If your cpu power phase control in Digi+ settings in bios are set to extreme that will cause your cpu to run hotter, set it to optimized and check the rest of those settings. A good place to start


All c-states are enabled and I use offset voltage. Haven't touch to the CPU power duty control.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I used CLU on my CPU and CLMP on my GPUs.
> I agree that your pump is running a little low. I run mine at 3300 rpm. It's still quieter than my fans, but moves enough water to be effective. With this warm summer weather I've been getting into the mid 50s on my GPUs while gaming. I'm happy with those temps.


I'll rise the pump speed to ~3000rpm.

Thank's for everyone







I'll start to play with the pump speed and I borrow my friends IR temp gun to get temperatures from rad when gaming.








I can't understand how CPU/GPU/chipset and MB VRM can get 3 x 240mm loop so warm even with overclock.








Have to test the temps with stock clocks and see how big the difference is.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Hey @B NEGATIVE
> 
> Ill ask you since you seem to be the authority on acrylic.
> 
> Is it very difficult to get clean bends while hand bending acrylic? And can it be rebent if slight adjustments are needed?
> 
> Im trying to decide on PETG or Acrylic still. Itll be my first hardline PC


All it takes is time and patience,you can reheat and re bend as you see fit.
Most acrylic problems stem from poor fitting,keep the tubes stress free and they will not fail you.


----------



## DreamTheatrics

Just stopping in to say that I'm beyond happy to be a WC'ing addict and I have you guys to thank for it. My GF would say otherwise. I've gone through a lot of builds in the past couple years but this is the current one. We'll see how long it lasts. I'm starting to miss working with a case. Kind of just threw this together.


----------



## spyshagg

how do you guys rank a WC system that maintains Delta temp of 0ºc Idle and 3~4ºc full load with:

Quote:


> i7 2600k @ 4.9Ghz 1.5v
> 
> 2x 290x @ 1190/1620 1.328v


Edit: rephrasing, with the above system under full load, the ambient temp is 29ºc and the water temp is 32ºc


----------



## BrjSan




----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> how do you guys rank a WC system that maintains Delta temp of 0ºc Idle and 3~4ºc full load with:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> i7 2600k @ 4.9Ghz 1.5v
> 
> 2x 290x @ 1190/1620 1.328v
> 
> 
> 
> ?
Click to expand...

Barely adequate in my book . . . .









Minus 10C under load is decent to pretty good . . .









Maintaining at dew point under load is very good . . .
















But then again, I have tropical ambients, and run all my major builds with hybrid chiller setups.

Obviously, you should phrase the question in a more meaningful way with some established parameters to get more useful / informative answers.

Darlene


----------



## spyshagg

Okay









under full load with the above system the ambient temp is 29ºc and the watertemp is 32ºc (that is a delta of 3ºc, correct?)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> Okay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> under full load with the above system the ambient temp is 29ºc and the watertemp is 32ºc (that is a delta of 3ºc, correct?)


This is a picture thread..so lets see the pics.

Or it didn't happen.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> *I began taking jay's videos with a grain of salt a long time ago...it's always obvious he has an agenda.*
> 
> That being said, correct me if im wrong, but in the video he talks about UV dye infused PETG...i read somewhere that UV light degrades PETG, and i thought i remembered him saying that as well...Wouldnt that defeat the entire purpose of it?
> 
> Also, i wanted to get the record straight, does PETG suffer from 'evaporation' from the pores over time? I thought i read this, but im not sure. Just wanted someone to weigh in here/


It's something that I've thought about all the big tech YouTubers at one point or another. It's something I want make a point to avoid with my channel.


----------



## emsj86

Can someone recommend a temp sensor I can add to my top radiator on the opposite side ports. Hopefully something that does not stick out much as I don't want it seen and the temp sensor display would be on the back side of the case so if I ever want to check my temp I can. Also is it worth putting a water sensor in or can I calculate it by my component temps?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think chessboard build (after the black pastel turning into chocolate/coffee/ale pastel) will have to be renamed to jade chessboard
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well...I guess is a never ending build. This will postpone final configuration of chessboard in about six months. Will change the xspc rads for HWlabs sr2 MP and then switch place all black fittings for white and vice-versa. The gpus blocks look much more alive with white pastel. For awhile it will be the jade chessboard


The Jade is Epic with Colour! Black is Devoid of Colour and won't accent much you know? 100% Improvement









But It is only my Opinion









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> It's something that I've thought about all the big tech YouTubers at one point or another. It's something I want make a point to avoid with my channel.


I concur with your Statement. You have to make money somehow.

TCO


----------



## aerial

working on tj07

420mm radiator
i7 2700k
gtx780


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*


#ZeroDegreeMasterRace


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> working on tj07
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hella clean dude...


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I concur with your Statement. You have to make money somehow.
> 
> TCO


Truth. Here's hoping you guys help keep me (and by and large BSTechTalk) in line and honest








. While I'm scripting and before I sit down in front of the camera I always look here to see what kind of data exists on my subject matter







.

Back on topic: I posted this in my build log because someone asked me for it, can't hurt to put it in here as well. This is the path of my GPU loop in the basement of the SMA8:


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Truth. Here's hoping you guys help keep me (and by and large BSTechTalk) in line and honest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . While I'm scripting and before I sit down in front of the camera I always look here to see what kind of data exists on my subject matter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Back on topic: I posted this in my build log because someone asked me for it, can't hurt to put it in here as well. This is the path of my GPU loop in the basement of the SMA8:


I stopped watching Linus because his voice annoys me. Not to mention his product placements are about as subtle as a highway billboard for a strip club.

I'm just hoping that others like joker productions and awesome sauce network for get sucked in. still making up my mind on Paul's hardware.

What's your channel called? I started making a few videos as pcjunkie128. I ask because I just finished another build (more of a case change) in a 750d. I would've gone with case labs but can afford it Atm.

 little blurry but you should be able to see everything. Second hardline build ever. I'm temperamental when it comes to cases and like to do a new build every few months whenever I get new hardware.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Product placements are how they make videos full time beyond cell phone shot shorts. Not to mention sponsored builds.

The companies that sends these guys tech don't want them to hide it.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's a tad unavoidable tbh. If you get sponsors it inevitably runs this course imho.

When Linus started as a Rep for NCIX, he had no sponsors but them. That meant the freedom to play with everything.

Now? Sponsored and they want him to focus on their gear. Goes hand in hand I'm afraid.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's a tad unavoidable tbh. If you get sponsors it inevitably runs this course imho.
> 
> When Linus started as a Rep for NCIX, he had no sponsors but them. That meant the freedom to play with everything.
> 
> Now? Sponsored and they want him to focus on their gear. Goes hand in hand I'm afraid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was thinking about this exact Quote you said a couple weeks ago.

If a company is sponsoring you, You wouldn't have the freedom of Using what you wanted to in a build. That would disturb me.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

So I ordered my Photon D5 PWM pump (and other stuff) on Saturday. Well apparently the upgraded XSPC PWM version hasn't come in yet. They're asking me if an Alphacool or swiftech PWM would be okay. What should I do? My case won't be in for a while, so should I wait for the XSPC to come in stock, or have them switch it for one of the others? My current one is an XSPC, and I would like to match it even though they are technically the same pumps.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> *I began taking jay's videos with a grain of salt a long time ago...it's always obvious he has an agenda.*
> 
> That being said, correct me if im wrong, but in the video he talks about UV dye infused PETG...i read somewhere that UV light degrades PETG, and i thought i remembered him saying that as well...Wouldnt that defeat the entire purpose of it?
> 
> Also, i wanted to get the record straight, does PETG suffer from 'evaporation' from the pores over time? I thought i read this, but im not sure. Just wanted someone to weigh in here/
> 
> 
> 
> It's something that I've thought about all the big tech YouTubers at one point or another. It's something I want make a point to avoid with my channel.
Click to expand...

None of them actually do any leg work,they just spout off manufacturer 'facts' and be done with it.

None of them have forum presence,I dont think they would like the response tbh....

Always be wary of those that dictate rather than engage,there is no peer review in effect,just one guy and his opinion. All of them,without exception,are making money...when money is changing hands then objectivity declines in response,along with integrity.
There are a few that I would trust but only because I know them RL. I dislike FB modder pages for the same reason...


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I stopped watching Linus because his voice annoys me. Not to mention his product placements are about as subtle as a highway billboard for a strip club.
> 
> I'm just hoping that others like joker productions and awesome sauce network for get sucked in. still making up my mind on Paul's hardware.
> 
> What's your channel called? I started making a few videos as pcjunkie128. I ask because I just finished another build (more of a case change) in a 750d. I would've gone with case labs but can afford it Atm.
> 
> little blurry but you should be able to see everything. Second hardline build ever. I'm temperamental when it comes to cases and like to do a new build every few months whenever I get new hardware.


I unsubbed from Linus for a while because I found Luke obnoxious (still kinda do) I resubbed to keep up with what they're doing though. PM me a link to your channel, I'd love to support you. More OCN on YouTube is always good!









I'll PM you a direct link to our channel, anyone else who wants to look, our name is BSTechTalk and we own the .com for our channel name. We just got started last month. I release stuff on the first Monday of every month, my partner on the third Monday, and we do something together for the fourth Monday of the month.

The first video on upgrading my build will be up next month. OCN people get an early look with pics in my build log, this thread, etc. because I consider OCN home







. Twitter, Facebook, Reddit get to wait til the videos go up







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's a tad unavoidable tbh. If you get sponsors it inevitably runs this course imho.
> 
> When Linus started as a Rep for NCIX, he had no sponsors but them. That meant the freedom to play with everything.
> 
> Now? Sponsored and they want him to focus on their gear. Goes hand in hand I'm afraid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was thinking about this exact Quote you said a couple weeks ago.
> 
> If a company is sponsoring you, You wouldn't have the freedom of Using what you wanted to in a build. That would disturb me.
> 
> TCO


For fun side builds or "how to" guides, using what I'm told to wouldn't bother me, but I'd be up front about what was supplied to me in the beginning of the video. I don't mind giving credit where it's due or letting people know about generosity, but I'm not going to lie for anyone and say I'm using something for a performance metric when I'm not.

Gray Son on the other hand I'll use what I want and pay for it because it's my system and my choices.

What's bothering me about the big tech YouTubers is them just parroting info (and sometimes blindly quoting each other) without fact/data checking and acting like people who don't just fall in line with them are idiots.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> do you have water temp sensor or a way to measure it? What case are you using?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Thats pretty high! guys are getting the same temps on air....


I just checked the temperature from side of the rads with IR temp gun. After 40min of playing BF4 rad temps changed between 37°C and 40°C while ambient temp was 26°C.
I think I'll have to check GPU tim because 55°C just seem little bit too high







. I'm pretty sure that there isn't any air in the loop.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> None of them actually do any leg work,they just spout off manufacturer 'facts' and be done with it.
> 
> None of them have forum presence,I dont think they would like the response tbh....
> 
> Always be wary of those that dictate rather than engage,there is no peer review in effect,just one guy and his opinion. All of them,without exception,are making money...when money is changing hands then objectivity declines in response,along with integrity.
> There are a few that I would trust but only because I know them RL. I dislike FB modder pages for the same reason...


Quoted For So Much Truth.

I used to wonder why none of them are active posters here, but the more I've hung around the more I've understood they wouldn't like the scrutiny. I think one of them said OCN was too elitist for them, but to be honest I think he should have used the word "genuine" instead lol.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I just checked the temperature from side of the rads with IR temp gun. After 40min of playing BF4 rad temps changed between 37°C and 40°C while ambient temp was 26°C.
> I think I'll have to check GPU tim because 55°C just seem little bit too high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm pretty sure that there isn't any air in the loop.


Could be an air pocket. I usually rock my pc back and forth for about 10 mins once I start my loop. It's amazing how much air gets trapped in there, though i have 4 huge rads.

I have a buddy with a 750D and just one loop to his GPU and was getting crazy high temps, like 80-90c on the gpu... So I went over there last night and he didn't have a complete loop, the inlet of the DDC goes to the top of the res where there is no water..... lol what a dumbass. How it's possible his pump didn't burn out in the hour he had it running is beyond me.... I'm not saying thats your problem, it's just a funny story


----------



## deadwidesmile

I actually find OCN to be friendlier than the other... "causal" sites? I've heard elitist from several of them in videos. I still enjoy their videos feel that a lot of the time they aren't saying this part or others are not sponsored. Maybe the focus is far different than what a lot of OCN is. Hate to break to anyone here but, we're not the norm when it comes to pc's. And, imagine if they did have more I'd a presence here, or started to? Being scrutinized harder than average solely based on their web videos? I wouldn't be super thrilled, heh.

But, the fact that we're talking about the merits of their presence or blessing of their absence at all is something, right?

On topic, my parts should be arriving today and tomorrow for the x99! Do excited. Going to toy with the idea of painting the core x9 and really mixing it up or, more than likely, push to swap and get benching!

Any opinions on 480mm of radiator for a 5960x being over 1.3v? I'm aiming to get the chip solid at 4.6 but, it's a fairly average chip. Just really in my price range for all the other stuff.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I actually find OCN to be friendlier than the other... "causal" sites? I've heard elitist from several of them in videos. I still enjoy their videos feel that a lot of the time they aren't saying this part or others are not sponsored. Maybe the focus is far different than what a lot of OCN is. Hate to break to anyone here but, we're not the norm when it comes to pc's. And, imagine if they did have more I'd a presence here, or started to? Being scrutinized harder than average solely based on their web videos? I wouldn't be super thrilled, heh.
> 
> But, the fact that we're talking about the merits of their presence or blessing of their absence at all is something, right?
> 
> On topic, my parts should be arriving today and tomorrow for the x99! Do excited. Going to toy with the idea of painting the core x9 and really mixing it up or, more than likely, push to swap and get benching!
> 
> *Any opinions on 480mm of radiator for a 5960x being over 1.3v? I'm aiming to get the chip solid at 4.6 but, it's a fairly average chip. Just really in my price range for all the other stuff*.


You like silence? If so get a HWlabs sr2 and call the day. Very good performer, very low restriction, looks gorgeous, really well finished, very clean inside.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> I just checked the temperature from side of the rads with IR temp gun. After 40min of playing BF4 rad temps changed between 37°C and 40°C while ambient temp was 26°C.
> I think I'll have to check GPU tim because 55°C just seem little bit too high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm pretty sure that there isn't any air in the loop.


What @TheGovernment said. But if that does not solve it might be indeed bad blocks mount. Less tim and check contact between block and card.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can someone recommend a temp sensor I can add to my top radiator on the opposite side ports. Hopefully something that does not stick out much as I don't want it seen and the temp sensor display would be on the back side of the case so if I ever want to check my temp I can. Also is it worth putting a water sensor in or can I calculate it by my component temps?


You have a cap off in any of your radiator or blocks open take the temp sensor out of the fitting.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-plug-with-10k-sensor-t-fitting-black-chrome.html


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Quoted For So Much Truth.
> 
> I used to wonder why none of them are active posters here, but the more I've hung around the more I've understood they wouldn't like the scrutiny. I think one of them said OCN was too elitist for them, but to be honest I think he should have used the word "genuine" instead lol.


Ronsanut occasionally posts here I think.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You like silence? If so get a HWlabs sr2 and call the day. Very good performer, very low restriction, looks gorgeous, really well finished, very clean inside.
> What @TheGovernment said. But if that does not solve it might be indeed bad blocks mount. Less tim and check contact between block and card.


I mean to say, is the amount of space adequate, in your opinion?

I am tempted to pick up a few HWlabs SR2's. Those things are just beautiful looking! The size is a bit much for my current application in the Core X9. I'm curious how well I'll be able to shove a 3rd 480mm and a 240mm on the other of the case with the 2 DCP 4.0's and large reservoirs. They are not the most compact pump solutions, lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Friendlier? We pillage villages and plunder [email protected] booty.











~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I mean to say, is the amount of space adequate, in your opinion?
> 
> I am tempted to pick up a few HWlabs SR2's. Those things are just beautiful looking! The size is a bit much for my current application in the Core X9. I'm curious how well I'll be able to shove a 3rd 480mm and a 240mm on the other of the case with the 2 DCP 4.0's and large reservoirs. They are not the most compact pump solutions, lol.


one 480 mm rad for a single cpu block? yeah, more than adequate. Had exactly the same chip, same voltage and running on a sr1 560 mm and fans at 500 rpm. No need to spin any faster even under stress.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> None of them actually do any leg work,they just spout off manufacturer 'facts' and be done with it.
> 
> None of them have forum presence,I dont think they would like the response tbh....
> 
> Always be wary of those that dictate rather than engage,there is no peer review in effect,just one guy and his opinion. All of them,without exception,are making money...when money is changing hands then objectivity declines in response,along with integrity.
> There are a few that I would trust but only because I know them RL. I dislike FB modder pages for the same reason...
> 
> 
> 
> Quoted For So Much Truth.
> 
> I used to wonder why none of them are active posters here, but the more I've hung around the more I've understood they wouldn't like the scrutiny. I think one of them said OCN was too elitist focused for them, but to be honest I think he should have used the word "genuine" instead lol.
Click to expand...

FTFY

Elitist...a word bandied about by those that sit on the periphery looking in.....


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Friendlier? We pillage villages and plunder [email protected] booty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I love you so much for that picture








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> one 480 mm rad for a single cpu block? yeah, more than adequate. Had exactly the same chip, same voltage and running on a sr1 560 mm and fans at 500 rpm. No need to spin any faster even under stress.


Awesome! Thank ya for the input. What temperatures were you rocking?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FTFY
> 
> Elitist...a word bandied about by those that sit on the periphery looking in.....












Sorta-mostly-probable-truth.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I love you so much for that picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! Thank ya for the input. What temperatures were you rocking?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorta-mostly-probable-truth.


2 C delta idle and tops at 5 C delta maximum under normal stress (aka hours of gaming in W3 or running work simulations on it). Usually absolute cpu core max temp stay at around 40 - 45 degrees with some spikes up to 55.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Could be an air pocket. I usually rock my pc back and forth for about 10 mins once I start my loop. It's amazing how much air gets trapped in there, though i have 4 huge rads.
> 
> I have a buddy with a 750D and just one loop to his GPU and was getting crazy high temps, like 80-90c on the gpu... So I went over there last night and he didn't have a complete loop, the inlet of the DDC goes to the top of the res where there is no water..... lol what a dumbass. How it's possible his pump didn't burn out in the hour he had it running is beyond me.... I'm not saying thats your problem, it's just a funny story


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> What @TheGovernment said. But if that does not solve it might be indeed bad blocks mount. Less tim and check contact between block and card.


Have to try to shake the case and see if there is some air left. I'm pretty sure that I got all the air out from the loop but this wouldn't be the first time I make mistake.















If that doesn't help I'll check the contact between GPU and block.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Friendlier? We pillage villages and plunder [email protected] booty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Great, now theres coffee all over my desk. Thanks for the image.

Hot coffee through the nose feels terrible by the way.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Friendlier? We pillage villages and plunder [email protected] booty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great, now theres coffee all over my desk. Thanks for the image.
> 
> Hot coffee through the nose feels terrible by the way.
Click to expand...

But it feels so good snorting a line of hot coffee off the desk. Can't get through the day with out my daily line of Joe.











~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Bwahaha, that's hilarious. I want to hang that on my wall right next to the coffee maker. Which for everyone's information, is heavily over used in my household.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> how do you guys rank a WC system that maintains Delta temp of 0ºc Idle and 3~4ºc full load with:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> i7 2600k @ 4.9Ghz 1.5v
> 
> 2x 290x @ 1190/1620 1.328v
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: rephrasing, with the above system under full load, the ambient temp is 29ºc and the water temp is 32ºc
Click to expand...

That's pretty low delta.

Mine full load with Firestrike 3 x run, 2 x 290 @ 1100/1600 +87mV (I didn't record the voltage)
Ambient : 32.2C
Case temp : 39.3C
Water temp : 38 - 39C
GPU #1 temp : 64C
GPU #2 temp : 67C

ΔT = ~7C


----------



## DarthBaggins

I only drink one brand of coffee DeathWish!! If you were to snort that you wouldn't need a car lol



So far dual 360's do ample work cooling my 5930k @ 4.5 1.31vcore along with my 970 at 1455. I still have a pair of 360's on standby if needed lol and a pair of 560's (repaired them too)


----------



## OGBeandip

Ill be using a 420 for my 5960x and memory. and a 480 and 1260 for my three titan x.

Hopefully ill be able to get some quiet fan speeds.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Ill be using a 420 for my 5960x and memory. and a 480 and 1260 for my three titan x.
> 
> Hopefully ill be able to get some quiet fan speeds.


My vote is the EK vardars. I'm getting three of the 120's and four of the 140's to balance out the crap of the SP120s lol


----------



## Ironsmack

I prefer this forums and a few others. But lately, ive been hanging out here quite often than the usuals i go to. Because for the most part - i can find the info im looking for and its more direct.

Rather than a circlejerk and a bunch of useless post. My god... I remember searching info on a monitor i was interested in - and i found one by Linustechtips. Jesus christ... Its worse than reddit.

Just wanted to punch my monitor.

Linus, Paul's, Kyle, Jay are entertaining and i learn stuf as well. But mostly its just entertainment for me.

But when Paul/Kyle ended up doing their hardline using PETG - because Jay said so, welp... I just watched it for the amusement and possibly idea(s) for my own build.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I haven't found anything more entertaining and informative as OCN in the morning, noon, and night.

Especially white drinking my coffee in the morning at work while I am calling customers









TCO

I have to catch myself after finishing emails to clients, to type my Name, and not TCO


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Linus isn't legit, hes a spoiled brat.
watch his review of the newer unlocked server chip that goes for 4500$ the doucheyness just pours out of your monitor and speakers...

the biggest issue here is the mods ruining the good data. IE Gentle typhoon pwn mod guide, splave's z97 asrock OCF guide, Mayhems thread...
VSG's(I think he is who did them) fan/rad reviews

also god forbid you accidentally offend someone here... I duno you say OCN is pretty great but It seems like a pretty huge circljerk in the subforums.

photography sub is very singleminded and if you don't agree with them you are overwhelmed with asshat comments.

RVE club, has some really spectacular members.. (by spectacular I mean the extreme opposite)

I dunno I think it really depends on what area you are in on here. Theres alot of noobs who will flood you with false information.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I haven't found anything more entertaining and informative as OCN in the morning, noon, and night.
> 
> Especially white drinking my coffee in the morning at work while I am calling customers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> I have to catch myself after finishing emails to clients, to type my Name, and not TCO


I always read OCN on my breaks and then usually leave it up on one monitor while I am home.

Pretty good read usually.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I haven't found anything more entertaining and informative as OCN in the morning, noon, and night.
> 
> Especially white drinking my coffee in the morning at work while I am calling customers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> I have to catch myself after finishing emails to clients, to type my Name, and not TCO


Yeah, I have to be careful with that as well.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yeah, I have to be careful with that as well.


I remember the unfortunate time I signed a bank email as

-OGBeandip

I changed banks.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Linus isn't legit, hes a spoiled brat.
> watch his review of the newer unlocked server chip that goes for 4500$ the doucheyness just pours out of your monitor and speakers...
> 
> the biggest issue here is the mods ruining the good data. IE Gentle typhoon pwn mod guide, splave's z97 asrock OCF guide, Mayhems thread...
> VSG's(I think he is who did them) fan/rad reviews
> 
> also god forbid you accidentally offend someone here... I duno you say OCN is pretty great but It seems like a pretty huge circljerk in the subforums.
> 
> photography sub is very singleminded and if you don't agree with them you are overwhelmed with asshat comments.
> 
> RVE club, has some really spectacular members.. (by spectacular I mean the extreme opposite)
> 
> I dunno I think it really depends on what area you are in on here. Theres alot of noobs who will flood you with false information.


I haven't run into most of that personally... yet. I'm sure I'll encounter it. Why? Because it's the internet.

Anytime you have an expensive piece of hardware you're going to have a lot of elitist remarks by some of the owners. Hell, probably most of them. They dropped the coin on it. I still catch some flak for not going RVE board over the MSI X99 SLI Plus board on a 5960x. But, I don't need those options and price was a fairly large factor for me considering the chip cost. Either way, it's one of those moments where you look past it most of the time and just contribute and learn things from the non-crap talkers. And, try not to be baited into participating.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I remember the unfortunate time I signed a bank email as
> 
> -OGBeandip
> 
> I changed banks.


LOL.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by OGBeandip View Post
> 
> I remember the unfortunate time I signed a bank email as
> 
> -OGBeandip
> 
> I changed banks.


Really? You changed bankss?











TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I haven't run into most of that personally... yet. I'm sure I'll encounter it. Why? Because it's the internet.
> 
> Anytime you have an expensive piece of hardware you're going to have a lot of elitist remarks by some of the owners. Hell, probably most of them. They dropped the coin on it. I still catch some flak for not going RVE board over the MSI X99 SLI Plus board on a 5960x. But, I don't need those options and price was a fairly large factor for me considering the chip cost. Either way, it's one of those moments where you look past it most of the time and just contribute and learn things from the non-crap talkers. And, try not to be baited into participating.
> LOL.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Really? You changed bankss?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yup, new bank. I didnt like the old one for other reasons anyways, but I figured thats as good a time as any to change.

And Im sure ill catch some flak for using a 5960x on a sabertooth. Ive gotta say this is one of the tamer forums Ive come across though. I frequent /g/ (please dont banish me) and that has to be the most elitist group of people who have no idea what theyre talking about ive encountered in the PC community.

Im not even close to being an expert, but they make me look like one.


----------



## deadwidesmile

If I could crown someone for helpfulness it would be @Jpmboy. That dude's cool as a cucumber and so helpful it's not even funny. I've chatted his ear off in PM's and he's always responded and not just responded, but genuinely been interested in the conversation regardless of how seemingly off topic I'm sure it was, ha.

The information here is far more rocksteady than anywhere else. There's the occasional butt hurt guy that wants to throw his e-peen around but honestly, I mostly just ignore them from that point forward. Take any help they offer and just forget the other crap.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Personally I love the MSi SLI Plus the all black is just sessi, especially if I got it over my current R5E. Thinking of changing to it since the block (Bitspower BRAGI MIX99 Nickel Plated Full-Covered-Block (Black)) looks amazing on that board imo


----------



## RickRockerr

Thanks to everyone who helped me to troubleshoot my GPU temp problem











Decided to go with CLP.







Now my 980Ti temp tops on 46°C even with 1500Mhz overclock so that's 9°C drop in temp


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Personally I love the MSi SLI Plus the all black is just sessi, especially if I got it over my current R5E. Thinking of changing to it since the block (Bitspower BRAGI MIX99 Nickel Plated Full-Covered-Block (Black)) looks amazing on that board imo


Dude, that's exactly what I'm going with! Ha! I'm super excited. By this time next week I should be up and running on the 5960x, MSI SLI Plus w/Bitspower Bragi and 32gb of Corsair LPX 2666. I think the TX's and my Firestrike scores will dramatically increase at that point. I love this 4790k. I'll be sad to see it go since it's such a marvelous overclocker and the 5960x I picked up on the cheap is average at best. Still, it's stomping my Physics score by nearly 10,000 points in FS:Extreme.

Is Arctic Silver still acceptable to use for Haswell-E? It sounds stupid even typing it but I'm just curious if anything had changed recently. On the 4790k I ran the EK thermal paste and it hasn't done me wrong. I just found my stash of old thermal pastes from early 2014 and there's a new tube of AS in there.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I used ShinEtsu on mine, but that's my TiM of choice until I can get my hands on some Grizzly to try out.


----------



## Jflisk

Gelid extreme choice of champions


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Prolimatech PK-3 choice of champions


FTFY


----------



## deadwidesmile

lol - so which one or is it really just a matter of preference? At this point I'm looking at using what I have on hand as long as it doesn't explode...


----------



## OGBeandip

Honestly, at the higher end of pastes there is only usually a 1-3 degree difference. Unless you get into one of the more exotic solutions.

Gelid GC Extreme
Prolimatech PK-3

Pretty much anything mentioned to you will work great.


----------



## IT Diva

Swapped out the cathodes in the res for RGB LED strips, . . .

Nice to have some color options instead of just white. . . . although the RGB white isn't too bad looking at all.

Still need some above the CPU area of the mobo though, need to brighten up all the nice waterblocks so they stand out.





Darlene


----------



## VSG

As always, Darlene, I am in awe.


----------



## emsj86

slow going but build log is being Caselabs SM8 "Project B" The Bends

http://www.overclock.net/t/1567946/project-b-the-bends-build-log-caselabs-sm8#post_24269028


----------



## SteezyTN

I just love these pump combos. I ordered my second one and itll be here next week. What do you guys think?





Also, heres my build log. Don't miss out









http://www.overclock.net/t/1562006/build-log-case-labs-sma8-aquity-gunmetal-and-black-two-tone-w-titan-x-sli


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Gelid extreme choice of champions


qft


----------



## OCmember

HK 3.0 on socket 1366


----------



## r3dacted

My Nova X2M build, just finished today. Sorry for the potato smartphone pic.


----------



## spyshagg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That's pretty low delta.
> 
> Mine full load with Firestrike 3 x run, 2 x 290 @ 1100/1600 +87mV (I didn't record the voltage)
> Ambient : 32.2C
> Case temp : 39.3C
> Water temp : 38 - 39C
> GPU #1 temp : 64C
> GPU #2 temp : 67C
> 
> ΔT = ~7C


Radiators inside the case I would guess? Thats a good delta man. When I had mine inside the case the delta was above 10c.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is a picture thread..so lets see the pics.
> 
> Or it didn't happen.


You guys

Okay.

Built with spare parts. Pics taken with a 200$ tablet, and I'm not sorry about it







Because this Rig temperatures are awesome





Where are the radiators?

clue:



Through a hole in the wall to the adjacent unused room, where I have this:





No noise and no 1Kw heater on my side of the room. The summer is hot enough









cheers


----------



## sdmf74

OMG what is the purpose of the clear sli tube? Thats the craziest thing I have ever seen in watercooling


----------



## spyshagg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> OMG what is the purpose of the clear sli tube? Thats the craziest thing I have ever seen in watercooling


good question.

One 290x is a reference card, and the other is the DCII version. I can't make the connection between them "pretty" because the DCII card is about 1 inch wider and as such the waterblock fittings don't align. If you pay close attention to the card bellow (DCII), its watercooling tubes go right up without even touching the card above.

And this is not crazy man lol you should see the builds we made in the early 2000's where waterblocks were home made and pumps were stolen from aquariums.

Like I said earlier, pretty is not always efficient. This build maintains 3ºc delta temps under full load. The cards dont go above 48ºc @ 1190/1600 1.328v. Now this is crazy!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That's pretty low delta.
> 
> Mine full load with Firestrike 3 x run, 2 x 290 @ 1100/1600 +87mV (I didn't record the voltage)
> Ambient : 32.2C
> Case temp : 39.3C
> Water temp : 38 - 39C
> GPU #1 temp : 64C
> GPU #2 temp : 67C
> 
> ΔT = ~7C
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators inside the case I would guess? Thats a good delta man. When I had mine inside the case the delta was above 10c.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is a picture thread..so lets see the pics.
> 
> Or it didn't happen.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You guys
> 
> Okay.
> 
> Built with spare parts. Pics taken with a 200$ tablet, and I'm not sorry about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because this Rig temperatures are awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are the radiators?
> 
> clue:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Through a hole in the wall to the adjacent unused room, where I have this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No noise and no 1Kw heater on my side of the room. The summer is hot enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers
Click to expand...

Owwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww . . .

That makes Ray Charles's eyes hurt . . . .









I'd have to trade a few degrees, if that's what it came down to, over an aesthetic capable of inflicting that much ocular trauma . . .









Low budget doesn't have to mean ghetto, . . . . . it can still be done so it looks clean and tidy


----------



## spyshagg

eheh yeah I should have posted this on the ghetto thread


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> Radiators inside the case I would guess? Thats a good delta man. When I had mine inside the case the delta was above 10c.
> You guys
> 
> Okay.
> 
> Built with spare parts. Pics taken with a 200$ tablet, and I'm not sorry about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because this Rig temperatures are awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are the radiators?
> 
> clue:
> 
> 
> 
> Through a hole in the wall to the adjacent unused room, where I have this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No noise and no 1Kw heater on my side of the room. The summer is hot enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers


its Frankenstien


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Dont quote pics...especially those pics......


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Swapped out the cathodes in the res for RGB LED strips, . . .
> 
> Nice to have some color options instead of just white. . . . although the RGB white isn't too bad looking at all.
> 
> Still need some above the CPU area of the mobo though, need to brighten up all the nice waterblocks so they stand out.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Darlene. The only thing that could make these pictures better, Would Be if you were in them as well









If You catch my Drift











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont quote pics...especially those pics......


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Owwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww . . .
> 
> That makes Ray Charles's eyes hurt . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd have to trade a few degrees, if that's what it came down to, over an aesthetic capable of inflicting that much ocular trauma . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Low budget doesn't have to mean ghetto, . . . . . it can still be done so it looks clean and tidy


+Rep. I work in an eye clinic so this made me crack up


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That's pretty low delta.
> 
> Mine full load with Firestrike 3 x run, 2 x 290 @ 1100/1600 +87mV (I didn't record the voltage)
> Ambient : 32.2C
> Case temp : 39.3C
> Water temp : 38 - 39C
> GPU #1 temp : 64C
> GPU #2 temp : 67C
> 
> ΔT = ~7C
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators inside the case I would guess? Thats a good delta man. When I had mine inside the case the delta was above 10c.
Click to expand...

Yes, radiators inside the case. One of the radiator exhaust.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is a picture thread..so lets see the pics.
> 
> Or it didn't happen.
> 
> 
> 
> You guys
> 
> Okay.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Built with spare parts. Pics taken with a 200$ tablet, and I'm not sorry about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because this Rig temperatures are awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are the radiators?
> 
> clue:
> 
> 
> 
> Through a hole in the wall to the adjacent unused room, where I have this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No noise and no 1Kw heater on my side of the room. The summer is hot enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers
Click to expand...









I don't mind that when temps are great.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can someone recommend a temp sensor I can add to my top radiator on the opposite side ports. Hopefully something that does not stick out much as I don't want it seen and the temp sensor display would be on the back side of the case so if I ever want to check my temp I can. Also is it worth putting a water sensor in or can I calculate it by my component temps?


XSPC has a plug temp sensor that's cheap "around 10$" it's on amazon and ppcs as well.

Oh and it works









12$ Prime eligible.


----------



## Ramzinho

pfffff for some reason it double posted


----------



## crafty615

Got my xspc plug with led screen, $8 on ppcs


----------



## emsj86

When cutting a cut out for the temp sensors what out you guys using to secure it. Meaning if I cut a hole say on the case to have just the display showing.


----------



## Maticb

It has plastic clips, but I don't know how they hold because I simply have my screen on the bottom of the case not attached to anything.


----------



## DarthBaggins

They are pressure clips that pop into place when slid through past their high point


----------



## emsj86

Thank you


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Got my xspc plug with led screen, $8 on ppcs


and 8$ shipping


----------



## ebduncan

i use that same lcd display, for my water temps :-D

here is my current rig


----------



## emsj86

I just have to figure out where to put the display and the best place for the sensor. As not wanting to cut in the caselabs case but will if need be as whe. I buy something I don't plan on selling it usually


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> eheh yeah I should have posted this on the ghetto thread


It's fine so long as it works. Don't let the elitists on this site tell you any different







.


----------



## inedenimadam

Nothing wrong or ghetto about a LCD thermometer. Cheap, easy to install, not a mess of wires, no extra software...


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have one for ambient air in the back side on my case, still need to install the one for pedestal ambient, front case ambient and then coolant temp. But yes cheap insurance really.


----------



## Maticb

Hey guys just a quick question, I have my first intel processor since last week, the I7 5820k, currently I am running it on a conservative overclock of 4,2GHz @1,241 V and it idles at around 50C, ambient is around 30 goes up to 35 during the day while the water in my loop is around 40-42 when I am idling. Previously My FX-8320 was idling around the same temperature as the water. Interestingly it only goes to about 60-65C on load(More if i run a stability test, but nothing I normally do pushes it as far)

I have it with the EK Supremacy and another R9 290 with a fullcover, with one 240mm thin and one 360mm thick rad.

I ran it for benchmarking @4,8 and 1,414 volts and I didn't notice much difference in the peak usage temperature.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I just have to figure out where to put the display and the best place for the sensor. As not wanting to cut in the caselabs case but will if need be as whe. I buy something I don't plan on selling it usually


could you extend the cable and put it on your desk some where. Just put a little prop on the back of it like a picture frame.

Might just do that myself.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> It's fine so long as it works. Don't let the elitists on this site tell you any different
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> FTFY
> 
> Elitist...a word bandied about by those that sit on the periphery looking in.....


Relevant lol


----------



## defiler2k

Ready for leak testing that bend from the CPU to the GPU was a major pain!!!!


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Ready for leak testing that bend from the CPU to the GPU was a major pain!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It came out really nice







. Any other pics?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Ready for leak testing that bend from the CPU to the GPU was a major pain!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks great, congrats! I really like the black+copper

Looks like the return tube to the res' could have been a little longer - the tube coming down from the top radiator (to the reservoir) looks kinked/on an angle


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> Hey guys just a quick question, I have my first intel processor since last week, the I7 5820k, currently I am running it on a conservative overclock of 4,2GHz @1,241 V and it idles at around 50C, ambient is around 30 goes up to 35 during the day while the water in my loop is around 40-42 when I am idling. Previously My FX-8320 was idling around the same temperature as the water. Interestingly it only goes to about 60-65C on load(More if i run a stability test, but nothing I normally do pushes it as far)
> 
> I have it with the EK Supremacy and another R9 290 with a fullcover, with one 240mm thin and one 360mm thick rad.
> 
> I ran it for benchmarking @4,8 and 1,414 volts and I didn't notice much difference in the peak usage temperature.


You might need to resear your block and reapply TiM, 1.41 was a bad voltage to bump up to and could've damaged the chip. But seeing that you're only hitting 60's on load there is nothing wrong but it should be idling cooler than that even with your ambient a being high


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You might need to resear your block and reapply TiM, 1.41 was a bad voltage to bump up to and could've damaged the chip. But seeing that you're only hitting 60's on load there is nothing wrong but it should be idling cooler than that even with your ambient a being high


How do you mean damaging the chip? I did a slow oc, over the span of like 2 hours, bringing it from 1,2volts to 1,414 for a run of 3DMark at 4,8GHz. I was bored of OCing and stopped even thought I do want to hit 5.0GHz. It could be the TIM yes, I did put it on kinda ghetto, I thought my board was dead when I first booted it (I bought a tray processor and had no other cooler to test it with), so I reapplied the paste 2 times, the second time to makes sure the CPU was oriented correctly in the socket. (later I figured out it was just the RAM, it had to be in exactly 2 slots not the 2 I put it in to make it look nicer







), so the 2nd time round I wiped the TIM of with some toilet paper before reapplying lol. But I doubt it could make such a huge difference?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> It came out really nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Any other pics?


Im doing blitz run right now to clean everything once that is done and I fill the loop with the coolant I will take more pictures.

Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> That looks great, congrats! I really like the black+copper
> 
> Looks like the return tube to the res' could have been a little longer - the tube coming down from the top radiator (to the reservoir) looks kinked/on an angle


Yeah I might re do that line because it does feel like it is pulling on the res a little bit, I have to admit that PETG is amazing stuff, I only used 2 36 inch rods for this build so I have plenty spare, my only complain is that the surface is easily marked with finger prints and glove marks when its soft compared to regular acrylic.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Ready for leak testing that bend from the CPU to the GPU was a major pain!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah, now there's a good reason to go "Goofy" on that EK CPU block!

(and I'm not an expert, but I could swear I read in something with my pump/res to not use the fill port on the top as pump inlet?)


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Ah, now there's a good reason to go "Goofy" on that EK CPU block!
> 
> (and I'm not an expert, but I could swear I read in something with my pump/res to not use the fill port on the top as pump inlet?)


Yes you are not supposed to use the normal top for that res as an inlet however if you have the multi port top (which I do) you can use it as such.


----------



## sdmf74

Have any of you guys/girls used this Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 High Performance Thermal Pad or thermal paste?
I'm thinkin about getting the thermal pads still have a bunch of gelid extreme paste


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Yes you are not supposed to use the normal top for that res as an inlet however if you have the multi port top (which I do) you can use it as such.


Thanks for the clarification!


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification!


No problem, by the way this is the pump top you would need to do that

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport


----------



## fast_fate

CoolStream CE 280 and Vardar F3-140mm anyone


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> No problem, by the way this is the pump top you would need to do that
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport


Thanks, I'm rigged up and running already, not going to change anything right now. Here's the Goofy mount on mine, and pump/res FWIW
:


----------



## kl6mk6

This was just posted in OCDesign's build log. I just had to share it here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> This was just posted in OCDesign's build log. I just had to share it here.


He's still working on that one? Hmmm, these epic builds tend to drag on but that's nothing new. Sweet, drool-tastic collection there







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> TCO




TPSULO
(the psu-less one)

Love your drain port dude


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> TPSULO
> (the psu-less one)
> 
> Love your drain port dude


Thanks Werm. You have a lot of Black in this new build of yours eh?









TCO


----------



## wermad

Lol, not enough tbh . I added a piece of smoked acrylic to cover the hptx tray. The rest is the white-silver interior w/ the gunmetal (I call it "storm gray) exterior.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, not enough tbh . I added a piece of smoked acrylic to cover the hptx tray. The rest is the white-silver interior w/ the gunmetal (I call it "storm gray) exterior.


"Drum Roll" And we have "Storm Gray" In this Corner!









TCO

Looks Great Werm. Im glad I am able to see you get out of that small case you had before the Caselabs.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

So what's the ideal place to put the temp sensor I was thinking at the end of my run right before reservior to see highest water temp (I know it won't be a big difference) but just pondering it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Final block outlet in the loop would be best if you have a ring temp fitting. End cap in the first in of a multi port radiator or finally in one port of your Res. I'm using ring temp fittings.

i.e.

Minimum Temp
Operating Temp
Max Temp

This should give reasonable temp reading as well as letting me know if I have a sudden temp spike and approximately where I should be looking for the increase.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Shouldn't temps equalize??? Won't matter then where you place tbh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> "Drum Roll" And we have "Storm Gray" In this Corner!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Looks Great Werm. Im glad I am able to see you get out of that small case you had before the Caselabs.
> 
> TCO


I forgot the actual name but I remember "storm gray" from the wheeler dealers Bentley episode and it looks similar. I'll go back to project thief to get the correct name.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

What 360mm rad would you recommend pull configuration? using AP-15 fans

Have a EK coolstream XT but I just want to leave it on my test bench and figured this could be a good excuse for a upgrade









edit- I am liking the UT60 but not sure if that is to much just with out push/pull


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes Temps will equalize. However having it set up like this will give you operating Temps which will not equalize as the temp fitting is in the outlet of your block string. For me it's MB, CPU, RAM and GPU before it gets to Radiator one. So that temp will never equalize.









Temp sensor at Pump outlet will tell me what starting temp is.

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Wouldn't hardware monitoring be more useful (







)? Do you have any concrete info to prove this btw? You may see a difference when temps are climbing but really, this should be more pronounced on things that generate a ton of heat (ie quad hawaii) and then temps will equalize as the system settles at full load.

Just saying







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually I run ASUS AI suite but am wanting to get away from software suites. They're fine but having that app running full time hogs CPU resources that would be better suited for gaming and Folding.

I have no proof only my theory of how it should be set up to give me a better view of what before and after will report. Temps rise during use. And Temps fall after running through the cooling process. This is a simple overview of how I consider the process and how to best set up temp gauges. I could be wrong and if I am then I will see it at the end of rebuilding the loop.









Just found a sweet deal on a drill press from Harbor Frieght. $49.99 with coupon. So I will be picking it up this next payday so I can finish machining the heatsinks to get my GPUs under water.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually I run ASUS AI suite but am wanting to get away from software suites. They're fine but having that app running full time hogs CPU resources that would be better suited for gaming and Folding.
> 
> I have no proof only my theory of how it should be set up to give me a better view of what before and after will report. Temps rise during use. And Temps fall after running through the cooling process. This is a simple overview of how I consider the process and how to best set up temp gauges. I could be wrong and if I am then I will see it at the end of rebuilding the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Just found a sweet deal on a drill press from Harbor Frieght. $49.99 with coupon*. So I will be picking it up this next payday so I can finish machining the heatsinks to get my GPUs under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Bastard!







I need a new press but I have no more cash for my hobby. I got the thumbs up for a dual psu setup as I'm not satisfied with running a single multi rail unit (budget won't stretch for a huge single rail unit).

Not wanting to give you a hard time bud, but from all the years of wc and following this thread, a lot of stuff comes through as commonly acceptable and when you apply some simple and basic thought, it makes sense. But, hey, I've been surprised before (ie no 90° on the intake of a D5, ?). if any one can establish its been observed, sure why not







. I'm completely gpu less right now until Lepa gets a replacement out to me or I find a couple of decent single rail units. Its hard not having my beast in action since I've been off for a few days. Damn...gotta tackle the rattling fan..







.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually I run ASUS AI suite but am wanting to get away from software suites. They're fine but having that app running full time hogs CPU resources that would be better suited for gaming and Folding.
> 
> I have no proof only my theory of how it should be set up to give me a better view of what before and after will report. Temps rise during use. And Temps fall after running through the cooling process. This is a simple overview of how I consider the process and how to best set up temp gauges. I could be wrong and if I am then I will see it at the end of rebuilding the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found a sweet deal on a drill press from Harbor Frieght. $49.99 with coupon. So I will be picking it up this next payday so I can finish machining the heatsinks to get my GPUs under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Those harbor freight tools are the best. lol









Nah but if you treat them right they'll last for a bit.


----------



## deadwidesmile

True, they are definitely _not_ the most durable but, I've got some HF tools that have kicked around for a long, long while.


----------



## Ceadderman

I figure that the work I can get out of it, it's woth the $50.

Not only for my stuff but for modding of client builds.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Bastard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need a new press but I have no more cash for my hobby. I got the thumbs up for a dual psu setup as I'm not satisfied with running a single multi rail unit (budget won't stretch for a huge single rail unit).
> 
> Not wanting to give you a hard time bud, but from all the years of wc and following this thread, a lot of stuff comes through as commonly acceptable and when you apply some simple and basic thought, it makes sense. But, hey, I've been surprised before (ie *no 90° on the intake of a D5,* ?). if any one can establish its been observed, sure why not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm completely gpu less right now until Lepa gets a replacement out to me or I find a couple of decent single rail units. Its hard not having my beast in action since I've been off for a few days. Damn...gotta tackle the rattling fan..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Mind explaining to me the D5 comment? Havent heard this before.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Mind explaining to me the D5 comment? Havent heard this before.


Apparantly, its a bit no-no to stick a non-rotary (not the bp "snake" style fittings) 90° on the intake of the D5. We had a debacle on this and some of us have run 90s (mostly the "snake" style rotary). A few members with some experience chipped in and said to prevent cavitation or something to the like. Tbh, I've never heard of this and never had troubles. But its accepted as a norm, I guess.

I totally forgot to ask Bram (from Swiftech) on what his engineers thought about this or if they can credit this notion.

edit:

This style is "no":



This style "ok" (apparently







):


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Apparantly, its a bit no-no to stick a non-rotary (not the bp "snake" style fittings) 90° on the intake of the D5. We had a debacle on this and some of us have run 90s (mostly the "snake" style rotary). A few members with some experience chipped in and said to prevent cavitation or something to the like. Tbh, I've never heard of this and never had troubles. But its accepted as a norm, I guess.
> 
> I totally forgot to ask Bram (from Swiftech) on what his engineers thought about this or if they can credit this notion.
> 
> edit:
> 
> This style is "no":
> 
> 
> 
> This style "ok" (apparently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):


Interesting. I have an xspc 90 degree on the inlet of my xspc D5 Photon pump/res combo. If I power down the system overnight and turn it back on in the morning I get air bubbles in the pump. The pump runs half dry and makes loud noises until I manage to rock the system enough to fill in the bubble. This could explain it. Both the inlet and outlet have 90 degree fittings.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Interesting. I have an xspc 90 degree on the inlet of my xspc D5 Photon pump/res combo. If I power down the system overnight and turn it back on in the morning I get air bubbles in the pump. The pump runs half dry and makes loud noises until I manage to rock the system enough to fill in the bubble. This could explain it. Both the inlet and outlet have 90 degree fittings.


I mentioned this earlier because I have the 170 (and the 270's are going in my CL build). They say it doesn't work like that because it's not feed from the actual pump, but the res


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I mentioned this earlier because I have the 170 (and the 270's are going in my CL build). They say it doesn't work like that because it's not feed from the actual pump, but the res


Well that leaves me still wondering why these fill with air then.

Thanks for the response.


----------



## wermad

This was pointed out but the intake of a res/pump combo is inside the res its self. This notion applies to those running a pump completely separated from the res. Same thing w/ bay reservoirs w/ D5 straight attachment, doesn't really apply.

In the end, *I* just left it as "at your own discretion"







.


----------



## deadwidesmile

I use those "no-no" 90's on both my DCP 4.0's, heh.


----------



## wermad

dcp 4.0 is a jingway (and extremely underrated and overlooked pump) and i haven't heard the argument to include any DDC nor the jingway. So, for now, this notion/argument/theory/idea is in respects to the Laing D5 (and probably D4) designs.

Jingway:



ddc:



D5:


----------



## deadwidesmile

Dude, I know! I live the Jingways. They really are quiet, great performers. I was worried about putting a solo one for everything and 328u75092835720mm worth of radiator so I got a second and split the loops a bit. That and, I like running my pumps at about 50% for noise, heh.


----------



## wermad

They're nice pumps and are just over-shadowed by the D5's and DDC's running rampant in our little wc world. I had a couple a while ago and i never had issues with them.



In a way it makes sense, this d5 thing, and could be why some D5 bay reservoirs (like the koolance) where terrible. I just never had trouble with my alphacool top and bp rotary snake 90s


----------



## Ceadderman

Kay guys, question...

Reliable RGB strips that are dimmable. Who makes them and in a considerable length?

I just dropped the AComputer blue tooth capable controller in my cart so now I need something to control. I checked out their strip and 2 of the 3 listed weren't dimmable and the 3rd didn't have the information. IP67 version didn't specify whether dimmable. Would like in 5 meter length cuz I got plans but shorter of length would be considered too.









~Ceadder


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kay guys, question...
> 
> Reliable RGB strips that are dimmable. Who makes them and in a considerable length?
> 
> I just dropped the AComputer blue tooth capable controller in my cart so now I need something to control. I checked out their strip and 2 of the 3 listed weren't dimmable and the 3rd didn't have the information. IP67 version didn't specify whether dimmable. Would like in 5 meter length cuz I got plans but shorter of length would be considered too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The Darkside ones are bright as hell


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kay guys, question...
> 
> Reliable RGB strips that are dimmable. Who makes them and in a considerable length?
> 
> I just dropped the AComputer blue tooth capable controller in my cart so now I need something to control. I checked out their strip and 2 of the 3 listed weren't dimmable and the 3rd didn't have the information. IP67 version didn't specify whether dimmable. Would like in 5 meter length cuz I got plans but shorter of length would be considered too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


let me test for you...I have the black ones that PPC sell as well as the Aquacomputer ones and a fabwerk laying around and waiting to go in the Old Copper build. Will report back by editing this post. stay tuned but I think both are dimmable.

edit - yep. Both dimmable no problem at all. The only thing is for the strip from PPC you need to uncheck the square "optimized for Aqua computer Led strip" to get better color accuracy.

here we go. top is the ppc one and bottom the Aqua one. Both at 20% and both at 100% intensity (white color). Aqua looks better in terms of color accuracy IMO


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> The Darkside ones are bright as hell


This. Bright. As. Hell.

I had to paint the little acrylic tubes that go into the G1/4 tops of my reservoirs black because the light was so intense. And that was only a 3mm single LED. I ended ditching them currently until I figure out a more final configuration.


----------



## Ceadderman

+Rep to all for that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kay guys, question...
> 
> Reliable RGB strips that are dimmable. Who makes them and in a considerable length?
> 
> I just dropped the AComputer blue tooth capable controller in my cart so now I need something to control. I checked out their strip and 2 of the 3 listed weren't dimmable and the 3rd didn't have the information. IP67 version didn't specify whether dimmable. Would like in 5 meter length cuz I got plans but shorter of length would be considered too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> let me test for you...I have the black ones that PPC sell as well as the Aquacomputer ones and a fabwerk laying around and waiting to go in the Old Copper build. Will report back by editing this post. stay tuned but I think both are dimmable.
> 
> edit - yep. Both dimmable no problem at all. The only thing is for the strip from PPC you need to uncheck the square "optimized for Aqua computer Led strip" to get better color accuracy.
> 
> here we go. top is the ppc one and bottom the Aqua one. Both at 20% and both at 100% intensity (white color). Aqua looks better in terms of color accuracy IMO
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

So how thick is the AC strip? I know the Darkseid is 10x1.5mm but that AC strip looks smaller?









And which cables will I require to connect them since the controller doesn't include them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jumie

Guys, what is the stance on this advice: *no 90° on the intake of a D5*

Im having this 90' intake on my D5 atm, but my temp runs normally. Never pass 65' under load on CPU and 50 on GPU.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> Guys, what is the stance on this advice: *no 90° on the intake of a D5*
> 
> Im having this 90' intake on my D5 atm, but my temp runs normally. Never pass 65' under load on CPU and 50 on GPU.


search back 2 weeks and you will find the discussion. Is not a problem of temps whatsoever. It is a problem of noise and cavitation. The rule of thumb is to use 3-4 x the diameter of the tube in front of the d5 inlet to avoid. If you don't hear noise and are happy with it go forward.

@Ceadderman they are both 10 mm wide leds. let's see the cables...

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3275
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=62_2244


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> Guys, what is the stance on this advice: *no 90° on the intake of a D5*
> 
> Im having this 90' intake on my D5 atm, but my temp runs normally. Never pass 65' under load on CPU and 50 on GPU.


Its up to you:

Believer camp: run a piece tube between the port and 90. Basically adding distance between the pumps intake and the 90° fitting. Iirc, the minimum recommended length for this tube in between is 3-4x times the tube id (ie 10mm id tube, then the length of the tube would be 30-40mm to put between the pump and 90°).

Rest of us: keep running it. I fall into this camp, though I've ran a "rotary" snake version of a 90°. I've seen a lot of builds with both types of 90­s, and I have not heard issues from these users. Currently, I'm running a dual rotary though its rotated in a "spiral" way and not a complete 90°.

In the end: IMHO, its your call. I'm definitely open to have some industry opinion on this, till then, its a divided topic.

Btw, apparently, this type of 90° is not affected:



its this one in question:



(used BP cus they look schweetz







).


----------



## Georgey123

So before I fill my loop, is this a no no at the moment with an 15mm extension from the moment to the 90 degree fitting? Sorry for the potato quality.


----------



## wermad

You're call mate







. You got about 20-25mm there (taking in account the base of the 90 + the extension). If you can adjust your pumps position to accommodate say a tenner in there and just make sure your output run is adjust after moving everything, that should cover you. Personally, I run it like that. Or go w/ dual pumps for redundancy







.

edit: is that a BP top? Looks a nice w/ the mod kit. Sadly, I have the collar type that is not compatible w/ the d5 kits, but i think ek makes something for this.

Btw, nice Foxbat pic for your build log


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Mind explaining to me the D5 comment? Havent heard this before.
> 
> 
> 
> Apparantly, its a bit no-no to stick a non-rotary (not the bp "snake" style fittings) 90° on the intake of the D5. We had a debacle on this and some of us have run 90s (mostly the "snake" style rotary). A few members with some experience chipped in and said to prevent cavitation or something to the like. Tbh, I've never heard of this and never had troubles. But its accepted as a norm, I guess.
> 
> I totally forgot to ask Bram (from Swiftech) on what his engineers thought about this or if they can credit this notion.
> 
> edit:
> 
> This style is "no":
> 
> 
> 
> This style "ok" (apparently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
Click to expand...

Knuckle 90's are not good on the intake port of the pump for solid reasons,They create restriction on the water intake and can unbalance the impeller making it noisy. Martin tested this sometime ago.

Its good plumbing practice to have a straight run before any pump intake to 'clean up' the flow.

However,going by the tone of your post,you are just baiting for reaction......

Here is a laymans breakdown for you...

The primary problem with restricting the suction line of a pump is that it increases the potential for cavitation. In a nutshell, cavitation is what occurs when the suction pressure of a fluid drops below its vapor pressure causing vapor bubbles to form in the fluid. Since the density of water vapor is less than that of liquid water, the pump's discharge is decreased. Cavitation can also be damaging to the pump's impeller.

Engineers have a useful term for describing how close that water is to its vapor pressure: Net Positive Suction Head (NPSH). Related terms commonly used are the available NPSH (NPSHA) and the NPSH requirement (NPSHR). The goal is for the NPSHA to be greater than the NPSHR, as means that the total suction head is positive and no cavitation will occur. For water coolers, this can be accomplished in several impractical ways (cooling the water to make it more difficult to reach vapor pressure, increasing the head the pump produces, etc) and one practical way (lowering the NPSHR). Since NPSHR is nothing more than the static head required to reach the desired flow rate, reducing frictional losses of head on the suction line will also lower NPSHR.

Also,take the time to read Aquarium forums in regards to pumps,these pumps are very close to what they use and they are universal in their feeling about 90's on pump intakes...they dont do it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Interesting. I have an xspc 90 degree on the inlet of my xspc D5 Photon pump/res combo. If I power down the system overnight and turn it back on in the morning I get air bubbles in the pump. The pump runs half dry and makes loud noises until I manage to rock the system enough to fill in the bubble. This could explain it. Both the inlet and outlet have 90 degree fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> I mentioned this earlier because I have the 170 (and the 270's are going in my CL build). They say it doesn't work like that because it's not feed from the actual pump, but the res
Click to expand...

Is the res intake below the waterline in the res?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Knuckle 90's are not good on the intake port of the pump for solid reasons,They create restriction on the water intake and can unbalance the impeller making it noisy. Martin tested this sometime ago.
> 
> Its good plumbing practice to have a straight run before any pump intake to 'clean up' the flow.
> 
> However,going by the tone of your post,you are just baiting for reaction......
> Is the res intake below the waterline in the res?


Pot calling the kettle black







. Good morning to you sir







, lets not go back to your alpha posts.....

Seriously, without going to a heated debate, I'm still skeptical, even if martin did test this (with all due respect to Martins great work). It feels like a bit of uncertainty since its worked for many. I've seen quite a few setups with this. Seeing I'm not 100% convince, I can't really say this or that with certainty. Its like ppl warning not to run distilled only, that it will fail or I'll have pond scum soon. Yet, its worked for me. Again, skepticism is natural when something seems to defy common practice, even if that practice is bad (remember silver + ek nickel blocks???) More input from different sources would help a lot, imho, quell the confusion and your ambivalent feelings towards skepticism







.

The koolance d5 bay reservoirs weren't that good from what I heard and the many revisions adapters the made didn't help its reputation. Lastly, the way the pumps are positioned, does give credence to this notion about the 90° inlet becoming an issue. I mentioned that if you mind reading a few posts ahead of this quoted one. Again, more sources would be helpful this is my take. I know you for sure don't care on my opinion but I call it like I see it. Do you or anyone have someone who suffered failure because of this? (not attacking, just politely asking, and politeness might be weird for you).










edit: meds keeping me up all night....sucks I have no gpu's to game. so patrolling the ocn forums for now while searching for someone who has uploaded DBZ revival of F (not in spanish). Not showing in my town sadly







.

Edit #2:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Here is a laymans breakdown for you...
> 
> The primary problem with restricting the suction line of a pump is that it increases the potential for cavitation. In a nutshell, cavitation is what occurs when the suction pressure of a fluid drops below its vapor pressure causing vapor bubbles to form in the fluid. Since the density of water vapor is less than that of liquid water, the pump's discharge is decreased. Cavitation can also be damaging to the pump's impeller.
> 
> Engineers have a useful term for describing how close that water is to its vapor pressure: Net Positive Suction Head (NPSH). Related terms commonly used are the available NPSH (NPSHA) and the NPSH requirement (NPSHR). The goal is for the NPSHA to be greater than the NPSHR, as means that the total suction head is positive and no cavitation will occur. For water coolers, this can be accomplished in several impractical ways (cooling the water to make it more difficult to reach vapor pressure, increasing the head the pump produces, etc) and one practical way (lowering the NPSHR). Since NPSHR is nothing more than the static head required to reach the desired flow rate, reducing frictional losses of head on the suction line will also lower NPSHR.
> 
> Also,take the time to read Aquarium forums in regards to pumps,these pumps are very close to what they use and they are universal in their feeling about 90's on pump intakes...they dont do it.


I have an understanding, and basis is reasonable, I just want some verification, more specific to pc wc. I've had my fare share of aquariums and forums for them (owned a 120 gallon salty once, trying to ease out of my current 75). I never reached the discrete pump setup, but with basic knowledge, most scenarios don't require a 90 for in the inlet. Btw, are there any manufacturer warnings or labels in respect to this? Would definitely solidify the notion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Knuckle 90's are not good on the intake port of the pump for solid reasons,They create restriction on the water intake and can unbalance the impeller making it noisy. Martin tested this sometime ago.
> 
> Its good plumbing practice to have a straight run before any pump intake to 'clean up' the flow.
> 
> However,going by the tone of your post,you are just baiting for reaction......
> Is the res intake below the waterline in the res?
> 
> 
> 
> Kettle calling the pot black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Good morning to you sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , lets not go back to your alpha posts.....
> 
> Seriously, without going to a heated debate, I'm still skeptical, even if martin did test this (with all due respect to Martins great work). It feels like a bit of uncertainty since its worked for many. I've seen quite a few setups with this. Seeing I'm not 100% convince, I can't really say this or that with certainty. Its like ppl warning not to run distilled only, that it will fail or I'll have pond scum soon. Yet, its worked for me. Again, skepticism is natural when something seems to defy common practice, even if that practice is bad (remember silver + ek nickel blocks???) More input from different sources would help a lot, imho, quell the confusion and your ambivalent feelings towards skepticism
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> The koolance d5 bay reservoirs weren't that good from what I heard and the many revisions adapters the made didn't help its reputation. Lastly, they way the pumps are positioned, does give credence to this notion about the 90° inlet becoming an issue. I mentioned that if you mind reading a few posts ahead of this quoted one. Again, more sources would be helpful this is my take. I know you for sure don't care on my opinion but I call it like I see it. Do you or anyone have someone who suffered failure because of this? (not attacking, just politely asking, and *politeness might be weird for you*).
Click to expand...

I answered your post that was loaded with dismissive comments on tried and tested methodologies. Putting a 90 on a pump intake wont instantly turn your loop into a gravel truck,nor will it cause anything to catch fire,its just not good practice and CAN lead to problems.

You can keep pushing no biocide/no anti corrosive Werm,no one cares if you wreck your kit.

The res...well...if my koolance pumptops were anything to go by....they are just crap,period. Both of mine were incredibly noisy

We would get along much better if you actually did your own research rather than asking everyone else to troll Google for you Werm,I gave you my answer and im not inclined to help you or your attitude further. Politeness may seem weird? Dude,I have been voted OCN's most helpful member and nominated more than once so...yeah....solid work there.......
Perhaps less baiting and more reasoned discussion?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I answered your post that was loaded with dismissive comments on tried and tested methodologies. Putting a 90 on a pump intake wont instantly turn your loop into a gravel truck,nor will it cause anything to catch fire,its just not good practice and CAN lead to problems.
> 
> You can keep pushing no biocide/no anti corrosive Werm,no one cares if you wreck your kit.
> 
> The res...well...if my koolance pumptops were anything to go by....they are just crap,period. Both of mine were incredibly noisy
> 
> We would get along much better if you actually did your own research rather than asking everyone else to troll Google for you Werm,I gave you my answer and im not inclined to help you or your attitude further. Politeness may seem weird? Dude,I have been voted OCN's most helpful member and nominated more than once so...yeah....solid work there.......
> Perhaps less baiting and more reasoned discussion?


Your point in respect to the 90 was taken, and its understood, thank you. I'll continue to "research" for any pc related situations/testing/information for my own sake when I get a chance.

Helpfulness =/= politeness. And baiting, this post goes down that path. All I can do is laugh, but hey I don't know how to wc according to you.

And honestly, this would have summed it up:
Quote:


> ,its just not good practice and CAN lead to problems.


adding: "at your own risk" (I mentioned this a few times already).

But coming from you, i'm not surprised at the salty answer. And please don't assume I'm vying for your approval. I'll leave that to others







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I answered your post that was loaded with dismissive comments on tried and tested methodologies. Putting a 90 on a pump intake wont instantly turn your loop into a gravel truck,nor will it cause anything to catch fire,its just not good practice and CAN lead to problems.
> 
> You can keep pushing no biocide/no anti corrosive Werm,no one cares if you wreck your kit.
> 
> The res...well...if my koolance pumptops were anything to go by....they are just crap,period. Both of mine were incredibly noisy
> 
> We would get along much better if you actually did your own research rather than asking everyone else to troll Google for you Werm,I gave you my answer and im not inclined to help you or your attitude further. Politeness may seem weird? Dude,I have been voted OCN's most helpful member and nominated more than once so...yeah....solid work there.......
> Perhaps less baiting and more reasoned discussion?
> 
> 
> 
> Your point in respect to the 90 was taken, and its understood, thank you. I'll continue to "research" for any pc related situations/testing/information for my own sake when I get a chance.
> 
> Helpfulness =/= politeness. And baiting, this post goes down that path. All I can do is laugh, *but hey I don't know how to wc according to you*.
> 
> And honestly, this would have summed it up:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ,its just not good practice and CAN lead to problems.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> adding: "at your own risk" (I mentioned this a few times already).
> 
> But coming from you, i'm not surprised at the salty answer. And please don't assume I'm vying for your approval. I'll leave that to others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...











Quote me.

I dont know why you are so bitter Wermad.....


----------



## Natskyge

Good news for Watercool fans!
Titan x/980 ti waterblocks.





http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserkühler/GPU_Kuehler/%22Geforce%20GTX%20TITAN%20X%22









inb4: they are copying aquacomputer


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natskyge*
> 
> Good news for Watercool fans!
> Titan x/980 ti waterblocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserkühler/GPU_Kuehler/%22Geforce%20GTX%20TITAN%20X%22
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *inb4: they are copying aquacomputer*


I believe ekwb was the first to apply this design path to a gpu block:
Quote:


> News
> *Sep 19, 2014*
> EK unveils revolutionary new NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 980 water blocks
> 
> EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear manufacturer, is proud to introduce full-cover water cooling solution for NVIDIA® reference (NVA-1G401) design GeForce® GTX 980 series graphics cards, based on Maxwell GM204 graphics processor.




http://site.ekwb.com/news/524/19/EK-unveils-revolutionary-new-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-980-water-blocks/

From AC site, their first block to use this is the Fury X. HK, looks like TX/Ti are the first w/ this design.

Don't recall which cpu block was the first to use this design tbh


----------



## IT Diva

B really does have the science on his side on this one . . . .

To actually see for yourselves, try this little experiment:

Take a res tube, about a 250 size or larger to reduce variables, with a single hole end cap on each end,





Install one of each of the above fittings into one end, . . . do it with one fitting then repeat with the other, and fill the res with water while holding your finger over the fitting . . .

Hold the res tube vertically . . .

Start timing how long it takes the res tube to empty when you take your finger off . . .

Now do it again with the other fitting . . .

You'll see that the gently curved fitting always empties in less time and with a cleaner looking output stream.

You've just proved to yourself why it's generally better to avoid sharp 90's over sweeping 90's, and particularly at pump inlet junctions.

Darlene


----------



## deadwidesmile

Ha, I'm going to be the science experiment on Monday


----------



## Arcs

I'm here to spread some more inspiration!









Build Log + Glamour shots: Arcan





Spoiler: More shots


----------



## Ceadderman

That's gonna be my htpc setup.









Good job!









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Ha, I'm going to be the science experiment on Monday


I just ran the test with a 400mm Bitspower tube, and was surprised at how close the times were . . .

Of course restriction rises with flow rate, and gravity isn't much pressure, so not a very high flow rate, but it took just shy of 8 seconds with the sweeping 90, and just shy of 9 seconds to empty with the "no no" 90.

The shape of the discharge stream was much more laminar appearing with the sweeping 90, and fairly flat and wider with the sharp 90.

Based on the natural flow characteristics of each 90, I can see why the recommendation for a straight run after a sharp 90 going into a pump.

Will your pump starve and your rig self destruct with a sharp 90 at the inlet, . . . . no, of course not, there are a lot of other variables involved.

Is it more probable that you'll have a noisy pump, yes, but not a certainty.

Smart design is going with the best engineering practices on a consistent basis which then minimizes the chances of unwanted consequences. overall.

There are always compromises that have to be made in any system, striving for as few as possible, particularly in the more critical areas just makes for less problems and unexpected issues.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Ha, I'm going to be the science experiment on Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ran the test with a 400mm Bitspower tube, and was surprised at how close the times were . . .
> 
> Of course restriction rises with flow rate, and gravity isn't much pressure, so not a very high flow rate, but it took just shy of 8 seconds with the sweeping 90, and just shy of 9 seconds to empty with the "no no" 90.
> 
> The shape of the discharge stream was much more laminar appearing with the sweeping 90, and fairly flat and wider with the sharp 90.
> 
> Based on the natural flow characteristics of each 90, I can see why the recommendation for a straight run after a sharp 90 going into a pump.
> 
> Will your pump starve and your rig self destruct with a sharp 90 at the inlet, . . . . no, of course not, there are a lot of other variables involved.
> 
> Is it more probable that you'll have a noisy pump, yes, but not a certainty.
> 
> *Smart design is going with the best engineering practices on a consistent basis which then minimizes the chances of unwanted consequences. overall.*
> 
> There are always compromises that have to be made in any system, striving for as few as possible, particularly in the more critical areas just makes for less problems and unexpected issues.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

100% this.

As with everything,its all about risk management.


----------



## Ceadderman

D, you have a garden hose? Ever had to use your thumb to direct it's flow because your spray nozzle was jacked or jacked up?

I do and have. What you're describing is a lot like that. Without thumb, water just flows in a focused stream until you put your thumb in and the stream fans out and has more pressure.









*No pumps were harmed in the connecting of these dots.









~Ceadder


----------



## longroadtrip

FINALLY getting to work on the monsterITX reboot. Really happy with the way it is beginning to take shape. The D5 will sit in the wall between the main and SSD areas. This will allow a straight run into the pump from the res, while also allowing for a larger res. Waiting on the rest of the fittings and the tube. Currently finishing up the wiring and the pump mount.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> FINALLY getting to work on the monsterITX reboot. Really happy with the way it is beginning to take shape. The D5 will sit in the wall between the main and SSD areas. This will allow a straight run into the pump from the res, while also allowing for a larger res. Waiting on the rest of the fittings and the tube. Currently finishing up the wiring and the pump mount.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome back Tim.

My S3 in in various states of dis-assembly.....mATX conversion coming!

Look forward to more.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You're call mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You got about 20-25mm there (taking in account the base of the 90 + the extension). If you can adjust your pumps position to accommodate say a tenner in there and just make sure your output run is adjust after moving everything, that should cover you. Personally, I run it like that. Or go w/ dual pumps for redundancy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> edit: is that a BP top? Looks a nice w/ the mod kit. Sadly, I have the collar type that is not compatible w/ the d5 kits, but i think ek makes something for this.
> 
> Btw, nice Foxbat pic for your build log


Hahaha thanks, glad you liked the Foxbat, pretty epic aircraft tbh. I'm pretty confident it should be ok, lucky i saw these posts at the time I did







. Ill report back if anything obscure has happened. The top is the EK d5 acetel top with the nickel d5 cover. +Rep

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-d5-vario-acetal-incl-pump
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-d5-cover-kit-nickel-acetal


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Welcome back Tim.
> 
> My S3 in in various states of dis-assembly.....mATX conversion coming!
> 
> Look forward to more.


Good to be back!









Really looking forward to seeing a mATX S3!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> D, you have a garden hose? Ever had to use your thumb to direct it's flow because your spray nozzle was jacked or jacked up?
> 
> I do and have. What you're describing is a lot like that. Without thumb, water just flows in a focused stream until you put your thumb in and the stream fans out and has more pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *No pumps were harmed in the connecting of these dots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This is sooo far off into non-sequitor land, it makes no sense relative to the discussion . . . .

Let's look at molecules of water turning a corner by comparing it to people . . . It is a fair analogy.

60,000 people at you home football stadium just got beat big time by the Houston Texans and they all want to get out at the nearest exit and go drown their embarrassment with mass quantities of alcohol . . . .

If all the turns they have to make as they exit, are all right angles, they bump into each other, and the walls, a lot and it takes a while for them all to get out.

If the turns are gentle curves, they get out faster with a lot less collisions.

Moving a lot of people, is a lot like a bunch of water molecules, they both have mass, inertia, and momentum, and the same forces of physics act on both of them.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is sooo far off into non-sequitor land, it makes no sense relative to the discussion . . . .
> 
> Let's look at molecules of water turning a corner by comparing it to people . . . It is a fair analogy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 60,000 people at you home football stadium just got beat big time by the Houston Texans and they all want to get out at the nearest exit and go drown their embarrassment with mass quantities of alcohol . . . .
> 
> If all the turns they have to make as they exit, are all right angles, they bump into each other, and the walls, a lot and it takes a while for them all to get out.
> 
> If the turns are gentle curves, they get out faster with a lot less collisions.
> 
> Moving a lot of people, is a lot like a bunch of water molecules, they both have mass, inertia, and momentum, and the same forces of physics act on both of them.


I love when you talk Dirty to me Diva









TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is sooo far off into non-sequitor land, it makes no sense relative to the discussion . . . .
> 
> Let's look at molecules of water turning a corner by comparing it to people . . . It is a fair analogy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 60,000 people at you home football stadium just got beat big time by the Houston Texans and they all want to get out at the nearest exit and go drown their embarrassment with mass quantities of alcohol . . . .
> 
> If all the turns they have to make as they exit, are all right angles, they bump into each other, and the walls, a lot and it takes a while for them all to get out.
> 
> If the turns are gentle curves, they get out faster with a lot less collisions.
> 
> Moving a lot of people, is a lot like a bunch of water molecules, they both have mass, inertia, and momentum, and the same forces of physics act on both of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love when you talk Dirty to me Diva
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Ohhhh . . . Yeaaaaa . .

Like when you ****ed off your heatpipe . . .









D.

Now before anyone goes and reports this post . . . . we're talking about his SM8A build and breaking the VRM heatpipe off in the I/O heatsink.


----------



## RickRockerr

Got me thinking.







Maybe a time to swap all 90 degree fittings to 2x 45 degree ones.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ohhhh . . . Yeaaaaa . .
> 
> Like when you ****ed off your heatpipe . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> Now before anyone goes and reports this post . . . . we're talking about his SM8A build and breaking the VRM heatpipe off in the I/O heatsink.


Call it what you will, It's similar to Our Relationship I suppose, Trial and Error









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I dont even...

TCO,Darlene will pick her teeth with your bones I think.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is sooo far off into non-sequitor land, it makes no sense relative to the discussion . . . .
> 
> Let's look at molecules of water turning a corner by comparing it to people . . . It is a fair analogy.
> 
> 60,000 people at you home football stadium just got beat big time by the Houston Texans


OK, you lost me there...

Houston Texans won?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont even...
> 
> TCO,Darlene will pick her teeth with your bones I think.


Thanks B, . . .

I'm in pretty rare form today . . . . .

The JW bus let off a bunch of folks in my neighborhood this morning to do their community conversion time . . .

And 3 came right to my door . . .

The one thing I like even more than building cool computers, is critical thinking, skepticism, and religious debate . . . .

I had an enjoyable time, they, on the other hand, were probably hoping the next 6 houses had no one home.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

I like Houston Texans references here


----------



## emsj86

Maybe someone with some experience can help. Im very disappointed in myself for not being able to get this right. I'm turning to make a fake floor out of 1/8 (3mm) acrylic but I just can't get intro for right or it cracks. Looks like I might have to ditch the idea. Here a crappy photo of where Iam at but can't get it flush to either side of the case.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/ipMao1uIj

Bought twelve of these, not quite ready to go the rigid tubing route, i will in time.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Bought twelve of these, not quite ready to go the rigid tubing route, i will in time.


Looks pretty good next to those AKGs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Maybe someone with some experience can help. Im very disappointed in myself for not being able to get this right. I'm turning to make a fake floor out of 1/8 (3mm) acrylic but I just can't get intro for right or it cracks. Looks like I might have to ditch the idea. Here a crappy photo of where Iam at but can't get it flush to either side of the case.


You sure you have the protrusions out of the way?

My 932 has all kinds of them in the bottom of the case floor.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Maybe someone with some experience can help. Im very disappointed in myself for not being able to get this right. I'm turning to make a fake floor out of 1/8 (3mm) acrylic but I just can't get intro for right or it cracks. Looks like I might have to ditch the idea. Here a crappy photo of where Iam at but can't get it flush to either side of the case.


You have to start with some posterboard and make a perfect pattern that accounts for all the thread bosses and changes in surface flatness.

Once you have your pattern exactly right, overlay it to the acrylic and mark it off, and then cut the acrylic..

You may find that you need 2 layers of acrylic to fully compensate for the ends at the bottom where they rise about 0.5mm higher than the floor panel, and where all the thread bosses are . . you'll want to clearance drill for those in the bottom layer of acrylic.

If you were using thicker acrylic, and had a mill or router, you could relieve the under side for the ends, and counter bore blind reliefs for the thread bosses.

It's a lot easier to cut posterboard and tape it back if you cut too much, and make it fit a little at a time, than to work right off with your acrylic.

Many a time I've spent the better part of a day making the pattern and getting it just right with everything accounted for, which then only takes an hour or two to have the finished acrylic part.

You'll also find that sometimes, you can't have the piece you want all as one piece because of shape or how you'll need to get it in or out . . . so keep that possibility in mind, and look for ways to work around it when you can.

You also have to constantly think in 3D, since the posterboard pattern isn't as thick as the acrylic will be.

Darlene


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> B really does have the science on his side on this one . . . .
> 
> To actually see for yourselves, try this little experiment:
> 
> Take a res tube, about a 250 size or larger to reduce variables, with a single hole end cap on each end,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Install one of each of the above fittings into one end, . . . do it with one fitting then repeat with the other, and fill the res with water while holding your finger over the fitting . . .
> 
> Hold the res tube vertically . . .
> 
> Start timing how long it takes the res tube to empty when you take your finger off . . .
> 
> Now do it again with the other fitting . . .
> 
> You'll see that the gently curved fitting always empties in less time and with a cleaner looking output stream.
> 
> You've just proved to yourself why it's generally better to avoid sharp 90's over sweeping 90's, and particularly at pump inlet junctions.
> 
> Darlene


I'm not denying the science and it makes sense. Not sure why folks are overlooking this. Ultimately, is it a pump longevity thing; Is it a noise thing; Is it about flows (rhetorical). What is that one is trying to achieve by doing this? Yes, I read bneg's post, but as usual, they're harder to decipher with his added layer of "communication" when it comes to a reply to a few members. I see the goal of noise, and I can see how the science can back that up. No denying it there. I can also clearly see avoiding the pump to run dry if it cavitates. Pretty solid premises and again, there's no denial from me, just uncertainty as many have stepped forward of just not doing this. In your experience, how does this apply to other pumps like DDC's and jingways (From Bneg's retorts on aquarium users, eheim will suffer from this)?

I end up doing a lot of things that buck the norm because they work for me. Its not that I'm trying to go against the status quo, its just that again it works for me. And it seems some people don't like those of us who prefer to do things different nor where we suggest such alternatives. My posts clearly give indication that I'm not against this notion of avoiding a 90 on the inlet but just skeptical about it. If we had a handful of members with exploding pumps and loops because of this, I'll be glad to preach it like a Southern quire. If ppl would read my posts, I leave it to them to decide. Same thing with running without a biocide or running one pump for a massive loop. A few ppl have reached out to me on these things. It seems like its hard to bring them up here.

Thanks Dar for your input. Your Snowy X9 build clearly bucks the current climate and I'm glad you've stuck with it







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Ha, I'm going to be the science experiment on Monday


Lol, let me know what you find. I'm still curious but I'll stop to avoid rocking the boat for some.

Btw, I'm gonna ditch the lepa, and stick in two units. I'm undecided on evga or cm; I need to measure for fitment but I can do up four psu's. I have one for my second system, and so I should have no issues in running two units in tandem. I'm glad I kept my jumper cable. Lepa is very slow, so I'm gonna try to score the other units asap.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Maybe someone with some experience can help. Im very disappointed in myself for not being able to get this right. I'm turning to make a fake floor out of 1/8 (3mm) acrylic but I just can't get intro for right or it cracks. Looks like I might have to ditch the idea. Here a crappy photo of where Iam at but can't get it flush to either side of the case.


If you're having issues w/ cutting in a straight line (for the longer edges), I used a fine cutting disc on my 7-1/4 circular saw. Its crucial to use a good straight edge to guide the saw and make sure you practice first to find the ideal distance (measure, measure, measure!) from the blade to the guide. Once i went with this approach, my cuts were far cleaner and fitment was less and less of an issue. Better then my bandsaw and jigsaw tbh. The blade is like $10 at most hardware stores (60 tooth iirc).

edit:


----------



## emsj86

@It Diva @wermad appreciate the advise. Yea I was using a jig saw, dremel and clamping it down. Part of it I think is the thickness of the acrylic is just too thin and cracks easy (long cuts are easy but making the small notches and cut outs were difficult). But no other place has the blue acrylic that matches pastel blue. Here a an idea of what I was going for but bc I'm using a 360 rad up front it makes it difficult because I have to notch out areas. I used construction paper to make a temp. but I must have missed on the pci slots as it off.


----------



## wermad

Making the finer cuts can get challenging, especially to avoid melting the acrylic. If you do use the circular saw approach, make sure to drop the blade depth to 1/4" for 1/8" acrylic. 3/8" if you go w/ 1/4 or 3/16" acrylic. I know dremel discs will melt the acrylic pretty quick, so I found some cheap mini saw blades for rotary tools @ harborfreight and I use these for the very small and detailed areas. Luckily, CL are squared, so I didn't have much detailing to do for my current case other then some minor extra trimming.


----------



## snef

90% done, need to do fan stickers and some little things

but took some pics to show you the " 2 personality " idea
what do you think?


----------



## OGBeandip

That may just be the most beautiful thing I have ever seen.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> That may just be the most beautiful thing I have ever seen.












I like his logo emblems


----------



## snef

Thanks


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks


Seriously, that is great work.

Did you make the logo emblems yourself?


----------



## 97discosd

Beautiful rig @snef Def pc porn!!!


----------



## snef

yes I made the logo, took me a minute, want a "S" in flame


----------



## longroadtrip




----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yes I made the logo, took me a minute, want a "S" in flame


Just curious, what did you use to make them?


----------



## EpicOtis13

Hey guys, I'm currently working on my new rig in the extended Parvum S2.0, and I need to find plier style tubing benders capable of bending 1/2" copper tubing, does anyone know of a reliable bender?
Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@IT Diva The Best is when you Plays hard to get









@B NEGATIVE Step aside stallion. This Round is on Me.

TCO

Oh, and I am doing some Tubing tonight. Picked up my Dads old school heat gun this morning when I stopped at moms.

Anyone have an extra G 1/4" Plug I can have? Don't feel like making an order from PPC for just one.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm currently working on my new rig in the extended Parvum S2.0, and I need to find plier style tubing benders capable of bending 1/2" copper tubing, does anyone know of a reliable bender?
> Thanks


I work as a refrigeration / hvac tech and bend copper all the time. Go to brand is imperial or yellow jacket. Yellow jacket makes a ratcheting set that I have (expensive though) if you have. United refrigeration around you which if in us you do bc there in ever city go there. If not ebay has them. A cheaper yet not bad one that local hardware stores have is rigid. Not the best for everyday use but work well. And there not too much either. Usually you'll see 1/4 to 3/8 or 3/8 to 5:8. Only downside with 1-2 tubing bender is the radius won't be that tight should work but plan for longer radius bends specially in a smaller case like the Pravum


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I work as a refrigeration / hvac tech and bend copper all the time. Go to brand is imperial or yellow jacket. Yellow jacket makes a ratcheting set that I have (expensive though) if you have. United refrigeration around you which if in us you do bc there in ever city go there. If not ebay has them. A cheaper yet not bad one that local hardware stores have is rigid. Not the best for everyday use but work well. And there not too much either. Usually you'll see 1/4 to 3/8 or 3/8 to 5:8. Only downside with 1-2 tubing bender is the radius won't be that tight should work but plan for longer radius bends specially in a smaller case like the Pravum


This guy knows what hes talking about.

I work in liquids manufacturing, When I dont hand bend, I use Yellow Jacket.

Theyre expensive but worth the money.


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys, catching up on 29k posts here, about to clean out my loop for the first time ( using acrylic )

Wanted to make sure I had everything in order.

Purchased these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018X2XT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 EcoPlus 728310 Eco 396 Submersible Pump, 396GPH
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E78XH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Watts WH-LD Premier Whole House Filter System

+ PENN PLAX Standard Airline Tubing Air Pump Accessories, 25-Feet and 1/2" vinyl tubing that comes with.

Since I"m using 1/2" acrylic tubing w/ 1/4" fittings, what would be best as far as hooking this up? I have a bucket from home depot, and going to take this down stairs, and just wanted to chime in and see if there were any new techniques for flushing out my loop.

Also been using Dead Water since I only use distilled ( no colors or dyes ) in my loop. I was informed by a member, Mayhem X1 had the best for this, and wanted to make sure I'm grabbing the right one.

I"m seeing Mayhems X1 coolant clear and Mayhems Xt-1 Clear coolant, which is the recommended for keeping my loop clean?

Appreciate any feedback.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I think it would look a little symmetrical if you shortened the piece of tubing on the GPU. It looks a little long, causing the other fittings and tubing to be off.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Is it me or is a piece leading to the rad (closer to gpu inlet/outlet) bent slightly. Looks slightly malformed from the angles


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Is it me or is a piece leading to the rad (closer to gpu inlet/outlet) bent slightly. Looks slightly malformed from the angles


It is Bent! I had to heat it up to mate the fitting

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol just saw the photo in the CL club which answered it


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol just saw the photo in the CL club which answered it


Yeah, that's why I mentioned that too. He didn't include the other photos that really showed it was at an angle and bent. It's such an awesome build. Hope my SMA8 comes to half of what his builds do.


----------



## OGBeandip

While we are talking about flow meters (thanks steezy). Where is the best place in the loop to put one? In order to get the most accurate idea of the loops flowrate.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say how TCO has his would give a good idea of a flow rate (going to/coming from a rad to/from a block)


----------



## Ceadderman

Pump outlet to 1st inlet should be good shouldn't it?









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

I know nothing at all, but wouldn't the best place in the loop to place it be in the middle or after the most restrictive block/rad? I also want to know because I'm thinking about adding one to mine. What's some good flow meters out there?


----------



## timerwin63

I also know nothing, but wouldn't flow rate normalize across the entire system? Or am I crazy. It seems to me that if you had water moving faster in one part of the opp than another, you might cause some kind of negative internal pressure and introduce possible cavitation.

This is just some preliminary thinking based on assumptions, though, and I'm probably dead wrong. BNeg will probably roll around and tell me exactly how I'm wrong at some point, too.


----------



## OGBeandip

I would assume placing it at the very last connection before the pump would be a good idea.

So for example lets say the loop is:

pump>res>radiator>block>radiator>pump

You would put it here

pump>res>radiator>block>FLOW METER>radiator>pump

This way you are getting a reading of the flow meter at the end of the loop after all restricting components, but before the pump which would potentially have a higher flow due to it being a clean run to the pump.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I also know nothing, but wouldn't flow rate normalize across the entire system? Or am I crazy. It seems to me that if you had water moving faster in one part of the opp than another, you might cause some kind of negative internal pressure and introduce possible cavitation.
> 
> This is just some preliminary thinking based on assumptions, though, and I'm probably dead wrong. BNeg will probably roll around and tell me exactly how I'm wrong at some point, too.


I am thinking that too, but some experience from a water system at work makes me doubt this.

Now as a disclaimer, this has nothing to do with PC liquid cooling, but its a closed plumbing system so there has to be some similarities.

If we open up a valve in order to open up a new part of the loop, we tend to get more pressure and a faster fill rate at valves closer to the pump outlet. However we also have noticed that a reasonable amount of time after the last restricting component we get higher flow rates just before the pump inlet.

Ill also add we have no equipment of actually measuring flow rate. This is based purely off of observation through clear tubing, and the amount of time it takes for the newly opened portion of the loop to fill up.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I am thinking that too, but some experience from a water system at work makes me doubt this.
> 
> Now as a disclaimer, this has nothing to do with PC liquid cooling, but its a closed plumbing system so there has to be some similarities.
> 
> If we open up a valve in order to open up a new part of the loop, we tend to get more pressure and a faster fill rate at valves closer to the pump inlet. However we also have noticed that a reasonable amount of time after the last restricting component we get higher flow rates just before the pump inlet.
> 
> Ill also add we have no equipment of actually measuring flow rate. This is based purely off of observation through clear tubing, and the amount of time it takes for the newly opened portion of the loop to fill up.


Seems somewhat counter intuitive, but it would probably make more sense if I studied fluid dynamics a bit more than I have. It's not a super useful skill in my field, though.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Seems somewhat counter intuitive, but it would probably make more sense if I studied fluid dynamics a bit more than I have. It's not a super useful skill in my field, though.


Yeah I have no education on it either, just experience working with it, we need one of the engineers around here to weigh in on this.

Im a mechanic not a scientist.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I am thinking that too, but some experience from a water system at work makes me doubt this.
> 
> Now as a disclaimer, this has nothing to do with PC liquid cooling, but its a closed plumbing system so there has to be some similarities.
> 
> If we open up a valve in order to open up a new part of the loop, we tend to get more pressure and a faster fill rate at valves closer to the pump inlet. However we also have noticed that a reasonable amount of time after the last restricting component we get higher flow rates just before the pump inlet.
> 
> Ill also add we have no equipment of actually measuring flow rate. This is based purely off of observation through clear tubing, and the amount of time it takes for the newly opened portion of the loop to fill up.


I have placed mine where It is now because, I do not want the flow rate effected by The Intake (Pull) of the Pump, Or the Push (Outlet of the Pump)

The Fluid in this loop I have created, and the Flow meter will show (According to me) the flow rate after exiting the rad, and the pressure caused before the entrance of the GPU.

AND! I have a couple pics of my tools of Destruction.





A 20$ saw kit and silicone inserts for the Tubing (To not crimp the tubing after heating) tape measure, 90 Degree Angle (The Kitchen Counter







) and the Old School Heatgun. Oh! And the Most Important Item, A Small Sharpie.

TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have placed mine where It is now because, I do not want the flow rate effected by The Intake (Pull) of the Pump, Or the Push (Outlet of the Pump)
> 
> The Fluid in this loop I have created, and the Flow meter will show (According to me) the flow rate after exiting the rad, and the pressure caused before the entrance of the GPU.
> 
> AND! I have a couple pics of my tools of Destruction.
> 
> A 20$ saw kit and silicone inserts for the Tubing (To not crimp the tubing after heating) tape measure, 90 Degree Angle (The Kitchen Counter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and the Old School Heatgun. Oh! And the Most Important Item, A Small Sharpie.
> 
> TCO


We have the same heatgun, nice gun.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Yeah I have no education on it either, just experience working with it, we need one of the engineers around here to weigh in on this.
> 
> Im a mechanic not a scientist.


I'm a engineer, but this is WAY outside my topic of expertise.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Flow should be the same all around the loop. In general avoid putting the flow meter just before the pump inlet which for the MPS family is definitely a requirement since the sucking pressure from the pump can (in fact my bet is it will in most cases) cause the pressure flow meter to go haywire. Never used but koolance flow meters (fm18) are liked by several people with experience in watercooling. Have used both the MPS 400 and High Flow from Aquacomputer and both are solid flow meters with its perks and downs too.

on other news it seems like "chessboard" is becoming the "jade Chessboard" indeed:




incidentally someone was asking for the difference in looks of thick wall acrylic x thin wall with pastel. The two tubes in and out of the gpu blocks are very thick walled (12 mm OD 8 mm ID) while the two connecting the gpu blocks in parallel are normal ek tubes. You can see there is indeed a difference and the thick walled add depth to the fluid view.


----------



## Ceadderman

PrimoChill flow monitor should be fine even in this setup shouldn't it. Since it is a visual and not electrical monitor.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Flow should be the same all around the loop. In general avoid putting the flow meter just before the pump inlet which for the MPS family is definitely a requirement since the sucking pressure from the pump can (in fact my bet is it will in most cases) cause the pressure flow meter to go haywire. Never used but koolance flow meters are liked by several people with experience in watercooling. Have used both the MPS 400 and High Flow from Aquacomputer and both are solid flow meters with its perks and downs too.
> 
> on other news it seems like "chessboard" is becoming the "jade Chessboard" indeed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> incidentally someone was asking for the difference in looks of thick wall acrylic x thin wall with pastel. The two tubes in and out of the gpu blocks are very thick walled (12 mm OD 8 mm ID) while the two connecting the gpu blocks in parallel are normal ek tubes. You can see there is indeed a difference and the thick walled add depth to the fluid view.


really like that color, awesome choice!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> PrimoChill flow monitor should be fine even in this setup shouldn't it. Since it is a visual and not electrical monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think the Primochill ones have a tach inside that measures RPM and translates it into a flow rating, don't they? Or am I thinking of a different brand...


----------



## kl6mk6

In
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know nothing at all, but wouldn't the best place in the loop to place it be in the middle or after the most restrictive block/rad? I also want to know because I'm thinking about adding one to mine. What's some good flow meters out there?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I also know nothing, but wouldn't flow rate normalize across the entire system? Or am I crazy. It seems to me that if you had water moving faster in one part of the opp than another, you might cause some kind of negative internal pressure and introduce possible cavitation.
> 
> This is just some preliminary thinking based on assumptions, though, and I'm probably dead wrong. BNeg will probably roll around and tell me exactly how I'm wrong at some point, too.


According to fluid dynamics, the rate of flow will remain consistent through the loop, but the velocity of the water will increase when it hits a more restrictive area. If this were not the case, the water would return to the pump slower than when it left and eventually run dry, which we know is not true. Therefore when measuring the flow rate, it doesn't matter where in the loop you place it because the meters restriction and velocity have already been factored in to its measurement.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Alright! I was able to tube this up way faster than the Sma8













TCO


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> In
> 
> According to fluid dynamics, the rate of flow will remain consistent through the loop, but the velocity of the water will increase when it hits a more restrictive area. If this were not the case, the water would return to the pump slower than when it left and eventually run dry, which we know is not true. Therefore when measuring the flow rate, it doesn't matter where in the loop you place it because the meters restriction and velocity have already been factored in to its measurement.


That's what I thought. Thanks for the clarification!


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> In
> 
> According to fluid dynamics, the rate of flow will remain consistent through the loop, but the velocity of the water will increase when it hits a more restrictive area. If this were not the case, the water would return to the pump slower than when it left and eventually run dry, which we know is not true. Therefore when measuring the flow rate, it doesn't matter where in the loop you place it because the meters restriction and velocity have already been factored in to its measurement.


Thanks for the clarification. I wonder what it is I observe in my system at work then.


----------



## huhh

I try not to add more restrictions into a loop by using flow meters.


----------



## IT Diva

Got the LED strips in above the mobo, so now the back half of the midplate/mobo area doesn't look like a black hole.

Some before and after:







Darlene


----------



## OGBeandip

Looks great, Diva.

How many hours does it even take to build something like that?


----------



## Ceadderman

Which LED strips?

~Ceadder


----------



## TheRealHeavyG

First time bending! I tried using the fewest amount if fittings as I possibly could.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Looks great, Diva.
> 
> How many hours does it even take to build something like that?


Getting close to 200 now, probably at least 50 more to finish it. . . . which isn't even a dent in the time I have in the Stretch build.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which LED strips?
> 
> ~Ceadder


I use these:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-bars-and-strips/led-light-strips-with-multi-color-leds-led-tape-light-with-18-smdsft-3-chip-rgb-smd-led-5050-with-lc4-connector/1470/

About as bright as you can get, and dimmable.

Never had so much as a single bad led and I'm on my third 5M roll.

D.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRealHeavyG*
> 
> First time bending! I tried using the fewest amount if fittings as I possibly could.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting. Have a build log? Are those vardars painted in dark blue? What you did to the frames?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Getting close to 200 now, probably at least 50 more to finish it. . . . which isn't even a dent in the time I have in the Stretch build.


Looking way better now Darlene. Where did you put the leds? Besides the top rad? Have you though about the idea of using the tube led insert technique you came up in the chesboard build log a while ago to illuminate that MB area?

BTW you made me







with the description of the 3 ringing your bell this morning coming for conversion talk. I could imagined the scene.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Getting close to 200 now, probably at least 50 more to finish it. . . . which isn't even a dent in the time I have in the Stretch build.


Huge fan of the stretch build by the way. It was builds like that that got me into this hobby.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheRealHeavyG*
> 
> First time bending! I tried using the fewest amount if fittings as I possibly could.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. Have a build log? Are those vardars painted in dark blue? What you did to the frames?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Getting close to 200 now, probably at least 50 more to finish it. . . . which isn't even a dent in the time I have in the Stretch build.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looking way better now Darlene. Where did you put the leds? Besides the top rad? Have you though about the idea of using the tube led insert technique you came up in the chesboard build log a while ago to illuminate that MB area?
> 
> BTW you made me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with the description of the 3 ringing your bell this morning coming for conversion talk. I could imagined the sc
> ene.
Click to expand...

I used 2 strips of aluminum, about 10" long, 3/4" wide by 1/16" thick which I polished.

I used M4 X 12mm screws with 1/4" long spacers to mount the strips to the underside of the top rad.



I did use the led strip in a piece of tubing to do the lighted res . . in fact it's 2 lengths of led strip back to back.

As long as it's *not* the IP67 strips, (the outdoor/ waterproof kind) it will just fit inside 12 X 10mm tubing, and two strips back to back can be nudged into a straight length.



.


----------



## TheRealHeavyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Interesting. Have a build log? Are those vardars painted in dark blue? What you did to the frames?


I am working on a build log. Because this case was for a competition and I was under pretty heavy time constraints, I didn't keep a step by step log, but I took pic along the way and am adding them to my "Completed" log.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1567768/completed-cooler-master-cosmos-se-cosmos-tribute-3rd-place-quakecon-2015-u-s-case-modding-championship-classic-mod-class

They are Vardar fans. I disassembled the fans and painted the frames white. The fan blades were not painted, but were rather dyed blue with royal blue RIT fabric dye. The fans started out grey and ended up taking to the dye pretty well. That shade of blue took about 45 minutes.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 90% done, need to do fan stickers and some little things
> 
> but took some pics to show you the " 2 personality " idea
> what do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is the most beautiful build I have ever seen.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRealHeavyG*
> 
> I am working on a build log. Because this case was for a competition and I was under pretty heavy time constraints, I didn't keep a step by step log, but I took pic along the way and am adding them to my "Completed" log.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1567768/completed-cooler-master-cosmos-se-cosmos-tribute-3rd-place-quakecon-2015-u-s-case-modding-championship-classic-mod-class
> 
> They are Vardar fans. I disassembled the fans and painted the frames white. The fan blades were not painted, but were rather dyed blue with royal blue RIT fabric dye. The fans started out grey and ended up taking to the dye pretty well. That shade of blue took about 45 minutes.


well done mate


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> In
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know nothing at all, but wouldn't the best place in the loop to place it be in the middle or after the most restrictive block/rad? I also want to know because I'm thinking about adding one to mine. What's some good flow meters out there?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I also know nothing, but wouldn't flow rate normalize across the entire system? Or am I crazy. It seems to me that if you had water moving faster in one part of the opp than another, you might cause some kind of negative internal pressure and introduce possible cavitation.
> 
> This is just some preliminary thinking based on assumptions, though, and I'm probably dead wrong. BNeg will probably roll around and tell me exactly how I'm wrong at some point, too.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> According to fluid dynamics, the rate of flow will remain consistent through the loop, but the velocity of the water will increase when it hits a more restrictive area. If this were not the case, the water would return to the pump slower than when it left and eventually run dry, which we know is not true. Therefore when measuring the flow rate, it doesn't matter where in the loop you place it because the meters restriction and velocity have already been factored in to its measurement.
Click to expand...

This.

*Volumetric* flow rate remains constant,based on this you can deduce that restrictive parts of the loop will have a faster flow *velocity*.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It is Bent! I had to heat it up to mate the fitting
> 
> TCO


I'm all for bent acrylic








this one does look a little unusual though, and in such a prominent location.
Have you got a short extension to put directly onto the GPU inlet.
which might end up at the same height as the tube from the rad / fm.

BUT, if you're happy with the curve, that's all good also


----------



## emsj86

Nothing is worst than finally have a full day off and the house to myself and having to now wait on parts (acrylic sheets for me) in order to start my build. Can't paint today as rain is in the forecast.







but with the advise here I came up with a way to cut the acrylic without cracking. Using my jig saw I got a 2inch thick 3 foot by 2 foot board cut a 2 inch straight line in the middle but not on the ends so it would fold on itself. So now clamp the sheet and use the cut out line to do my cutting should work. Will use the dremel with astic disc for sanding and notch outs. Than finish with file and polishing. After that just paint the angle aluminum blue or black I'll try both see which works better than drill and mount with bolts and nuts and I got myself a false floor. Fingers crossed as I'll rip my hair out if I mess it up again


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Nothing is worst than finally have a full day off and the house to myself and having to now wait on parts (acrylic sheets for me) in order to start my build. Can't paint today as rain is in the forecast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but with the advise here I came up with a way to cut the acrylic without cracking. Using my jig saw I got a 2inch thick 3 foot by 2 foot board cut a 2 inch straight line in the middle but not on the ends so it would fold on itself. So now clamp the sheet and use the cut out line to do my cutting should work. Will use the dremel with astic disc for sanding and notch outs. Than finish with file and polishing. After that just paint the angle aluminum blue or black I'll try both see which works better than drill and mount with bolts and nuts and I got myself a false floor. Fingers crossed as I'll rip my hair out if I mess it up again


If you'd more fully describe, and post some detailed pics of what you want to accomplish, it would be a lot easier for those of us with a lot of acrylic experience to better help you.

If you need to make cut outs with acrylic all around, then depending on the shape and size, it's easiest to drill a sequence of small holes and join them with the dremel with a cutter bit so you can get the jigsaw blade in.

For making slots, use a larger drill or holesaw at each end, and cut out between them.

You always want to use a very fine tooth blade, typically 28 to 32 teeth per inch, and don't ever use it to cut anything but acrylic.

I use the more expensive bi-metal blades usually used for very thin sheet metal.

They have blades supposedly for acrylic, but they only work for very thick acrylic, 1/2" or more . . . . They'll tear anything much thinner all to crap.

Below is a pic of the back mirror acrylic panel in the Stretch build . . . there are a lot of cutouts and nuances along the lower edge to clear rivets and screws.

Many of the cutouts are close to the edges, but none are cracked.

Working with acrylic isn't all that hard, just take your time, use the right tools, and always make sure your work piece is well supported . . .





Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I'm all for bent acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this one does look a little unusual though, and in such a prominent location.
> Have you got a short extension to put directly onto the GPU inlet.
> which might end up at the same height as the tube from the rad / fm.
> 
> BUT, if you're happy with the curve, that's all good also


I actually like the Curve you know??

TCO


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 90% done, need to do fan stickers and some little things
> 
> but took some pics to show you the " 2 personality " idea
> what do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Snef, you may have just knocked Parvum Titanfall off the top of my "favorite builds ever" list... It's beautiful....


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I actually like the Curve you know??
> 
> TCO


The second I read her post I knew you would say something. My sides.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I actually like the Curve you know??
> 
> TCO


why did i see that coming 10 miles away







.. Typical TCO...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> why did i see that coming 10 miles away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Typical TCO...


It's possible to be a ladies man AND build computers you know?







I like all kinds of Curves









TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's possible to be a ladies man AND build computers you know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like all kinds of Curves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Of course.

Im oozimg machismo all over the place over here.


----------



## pc-illiterate

just to clear something up ive seen a few more times.
our pumps are gravity fed because neither the d5 nor ddc suck or pull water/coolant into them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Exactly. There is a minimal amount of suction force but it's not enough to keep the impeller lubricated.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> just to clear something up ive seen a few more times.
> our pumps are gravity fed because neither the d5 nor ddc suck or pull water/coolant into them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Exactly. There is a minimal amount of suction force but it's not enough to keep the impeller lubricated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Fair enough. Still, I do not recommend using the MPS series (pressure flow meter) close to the inlet of the pump since It does mess it up with the readings (I have tested that scenario accidentally in a test loop) and I think fast_fate too. Whatever you call (if not sucking, perhaps vortex) this proximity to the inlet does affect the MPS series of flow meters.


----------



## alltheGHz

WC noob here, what is the purpose of a flow meter? As long as the water is carrying heat away from the components, isn't that all one should care about?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> WC noob here, what is the purpose of a flow meter? As long as the water is carrying heat away from the components, isn't that all one should care about?


from my understanding, it tells how good the flow rate is in the loop. You don't want a loop that is so restrictive, that I depletes the purpose.


----------



## TheGovernment

Flow meter is just to have a visual that your pump hasn't failed lol

Snef, that build is really beautiful.... I just cant help but wonder what you do with them once you want to change out components? or are they build for someone else?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> just to clear something up ive seen a few more times.
> our pumps are gravity fed because neither the d5 nor ddc suck or pull water/coolant into them.


Well, that gets said all the time too, but there is a difference between a non self priming pump and not producing any suction force. The common water cooling pumps will suck water straight up just fine once primed. They don't absolutely require gravity feed just to operate.
Just the action of pumping water in one direction will produce suction. A large bubble getting to the impeller can instantly kill the effect but that can also apply to a gravity fed inlet.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> just to clear something up ive seen a few more times.
> our pumps are gravity fed because neither the d5 nor ddc suck or pull water/coolant into them.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that gets said all the time too, but there is a difference between a non self priming pump and not producing any suction force. The common water cooling pumps will suck water straight up just fine once primed. They don't absolutely require gravity feed just to operate.
> Just the action of pumping water in one direction will produce suction. A large bubble getting to the impeller can instantly kill the effect but that can also apply to a gravity fed inlet.
Click to expand...

Just to re-affirm...this.

The head pressure value has the corrosponding force on the inlet side,you can't have a positive force value on one side but not the other. This only applies once the pump has been primed as these are not air rated pumps.

You will be able to see when IDORU is finished as both pumps are stacked verticaly with a bottom fluid feed,


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> just to clear something up ive seen a few more times.
> our pumps are gravity fed because *neither the d5 nor ddc suck or pull water/coolant into them*.


I didn't realize this.

I thought they created some kind of suction.

TCO


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> from my understanding, it tells how good the flow rate is in the loop. You don't want a loop that is so restrictive, that I depletes the purpose.


I see, thanks.


----------



## Solonowarion

45 leaked and destroyed my power suplly. Thanks EK.


----------



## eliteage

So im looking to get into watercooling my 5930k cpu. VERY interested in making my own custom loop. What is needed for this? (parts, connectors, etc, etc.) How risky is this? How much will it cost (approx.) Looking for some help! A PM will work or any input! Thanks guys


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> 45 leaked and destroyed my power suplly. Thanks EK.


So sorry to hear man! That's got to be the worst feeling in the world


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> 45 leaked and destroyed my power suplly. Thanks EK.


Did you happen to inspect the O-ring on the fitting? Actually looks like it's leaking from the coupler so that counts out the visible o-ring, damn that sucks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eliteage*
> 
> So im looking to get into watercooling my 5930k cpu. VERY interested in making my own custom loop. What is needed for this? (parts, connectors, etc, etc.) How risky is this? How much will it cost (approx.) Looking for some help! A PM will work or any input! Thanks guys


What board do you have, are you planning on a cpu only loop? Mainly you'll need fittings, pump, reservoir, tubing (primochill's advanced lrt is a tubing of choice for most on soft tubing), waterblocks for the components you want to cool. What's the budget you have to play with this as well? I personally built my first loop with parts off of the Marketplace here to cut cost and did tons of research and asked questions


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eliteage*
> 
> So im looking to get into watercooling my 5930k cpu. VERY interested in making my own custom loop. What is needed for this? (parts, connectors, etc, etc.) How risky is this? How much will it cost (approx.) Looking for some help! A PM will work or any input! Thanks guys


Probably be best if you start with a kit if you are just starting out XSPC. Stick with well known names EK , XSPC , Koolance there are a couple of others this should get you started. Price wise it is what you want to put into it basic kit anywhere from 150.00 on up.Everyone has there own preferences for pumps mine is the D5 . Water is distilled with biocide my preference - other people use premixed waters.I would steer away from water coloring and stick with tubing that has color. Try to avoid clear tubing it shows everything.

XSPC D5 pump
http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-raystorm-extreme-universal-cpu-watercooling-kit-w-rx240-rev-3-radiator-d5-pump-res.html

Kits
http://www.performance-pcs.com/complete-kits?p=2


----------



## szeged

could have been worse, sure it sucks losing the psu but at least it didnt blow the gpu or mobo/cpu.

or the psu didnt blow up blowing everything else with it.


----------



## emsj86

Ironic guy post about leak that killed psu while new guy post about the risk and is it safe. From my little experience it's safe just have To take the proper steps and not rush


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> 45 leaked and destroyed my power suplly. Thanks EK.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So sorry to hear man! That's got to be the worst feeling in the world
Click to expand...

Actually it's the second worst feeling . . . .

The worst feeling, is the feeling you get when you know you read from a dozen experienced people here about how to leak test with air, and the disasters it's saved them from, . . . and that you decided to start air testing too. . . the next time . . .

Darlene


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually it's the second worst feeling . . . .
> 
> The worst feeling, is the feeling you get when you know you read from a dozen experienced people here about how to leak test with air, and the disasters it's saved them from, . . . and that you decided to start air testing too. . . the next time . . .
> 
> Darlene


Thanks guys. This systems but running solid for over 2 years with a 5.0 ghz overclock. I guess the couple on the fitting decided to give out. nothing to do with not leak testing properly. Just unlucky. Oh well things happen.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually it's the second worst feeling . . . .
> 
> The worst feeling, is the feeling you get when you know you read from a dozen experienced people here about how to leak test with air, and the disasters it's saved them from, . . . and that you decided to start air testing too. . . the next time . . .
> 
> Darlene


I'm still playing with fire personally







I haven't done a proper air leak test yet even though I'm pretty sure my garage is outfitted enough to scab together a pressure system. Just, you know... yolo?

I also haven't had any leaks. I think it's one of those things that you do once you really, genuinely screw up a few components due to laziness.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> 45 leaked and destroyed my power suplly. Thanks EK.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So sorry to hear man! That's got to be the worst feeling in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Actually it's the second worst feeling . . . .
> 
> *The worst feeling, is the feeling you get when you know you read from a dozen experienced people here about how to leak test with air, and the disasters it's saved them from, . . . and that you decided to start air testing too. . . the next time . . .*
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Haha yeah... luckily I got through my 1st loop w/o doing air test. But I *am* OCD, so I cannot list how many times I checked and triple checked each and every fitting and part. I remember back when water cooling didn't have any manufacturers specific to the community and how I said I would *never* mix water cooling and electrical components.









Now I will be testing with air EVERY time to make certain that I have no issues crop up.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> 45 leaked and destroyed my power suplly. Thanks EK.


How long was the loop running for?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How long was the loop running for?


2 and a half years but 3 to 6 months at a time with coolant changes and checks. Doing routine inspection last year my V1 e22 acrylic was cracking after a year and a half of use. I went back to tubing till I wanted to redo the acrylic. With the tube now the loops been running about 5 months.



I went from this to this.to the first pic So these fittings didnt have much mileage on them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How long was the loop running for?
> 
> 
> 
> 2 and a half years but 3 to 6 months at a time with coolant changes and checks. Doing routine inspection last year my V1 e22 acrylic was cracking after a year and a half of use. I went back to tubing till I wanted to redo the acrylic. With the tube now the loops been running about 5 months.
Click to expand...

Just checking but, are you sure the leak is not at the seam of that 45? It sure looks like there is coolant along the right hand side of it.

It could be just a reflection of the coolant showing off the nickel surface and not wet at all, but I see blue and it shouldn't be that reflective, given the angle of where the coolant is puddled on the VGA connection.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

So what is this air test you guys are talking about?

Ive always just left the pump running with the system off and unplugged for 8+ hours. Pump was connected via an external power supply


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just checking but, are you sure the leak is not at the seam of that 45? It sure looks like there is coolant along the right hand side of it.
> 
> It could be just a reflection of the coolant showing off the nickel surface and not wet at all, but I see blue and it shouldn't be that reflective, given the angle of where the coolant is puddled on the VGA connection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yes the leak was definitely from the seam and not where the fitting is actually in contact. I guess they can just become loose over time?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> So what is this air test you guys are talking about?
> 
> Ive always just left the pump running with the system off and unplugged for 8+ hours. Pump was connected via an external power supply


Here. Have some of This

TCO

EDIT: Yes I know this thread exists and refuse to air leak test my rigs. Please Shower me with my Ignorance and whatnots.












Shake it off


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> How long was the loop running for?
> 
> 
> 
> 2 and a half years but 3 to 6 months at a time with coolant changes and checks. Doing routine inspection last year my V1 e22 acrylic was cracking after a year and a half of use. I went back to tubing till I wanted to redo the acrylic. With the tube now the loops been running about 5 months.
> 
> 
> 
> I went from this to this.to the first pic So these fittings didnt have much mileage on them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

So it was an existing,functioning loop that leaked?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Man that sucks, could have been worse though.

Was the 45 fitting under strain in any direction or do you think the oring just deteriorated?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So it was an existing,functioning loop that leaked?


yeah thats why I dont understand how that could happen. Unless it got bumped somehow enough to move the fitting and that was enough to spring a leak. Now that I think about my coolant level seemed to drop a little bit in the last few months and stupid me didnt clue in. Right there is a sign that fluid could be slowly evaporating.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Here. Have some of This
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Yes I know this thread exists and refuse to air leak test my rigs. Please Shower me with my Ignorance and whatnots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shake it off


Ive gotta try this, Ive already got tons of pressure gauges around. Thanks for the link.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm w/ TCO, I tend to fill 'er up and leak test when bleeding the loop. But last two loops I've had the PSU outside of the case after having a waterfall happen in one build lol (nothing was harmed from the distilled either)


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Man that sucks, could have been worse though.
> 
> Was the 45 fitting under strain in any direction or do you think the oring just deteriorated?


I dont think I was under any strain I just think I became complacent. Taking the power supply apart now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So it was an existing,functioning loop that leaked?
> 
> 
> 
> yeah thats why I dont understand how that could happen. Unless it got bumped somehow enough to move the fitting and that was enough to spring a leak. Now that I think about my coolant level seemed to drop a little bit in the last few months and stupid me didnt clue in. Right there is a sign that fluid could be slowly evaporating.
Click to expand...

That rotary has clearly failed in your first pic,contact EK support and explain the situation.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Ive gotta try this, Ive already got tons of pressure gauges around. Thanks for the link.


No Problem!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'm w/ TCO, I tend to fill 'er up and leak test when bleeding the loop. But last two loops I've had the PSU outside of the case after having a waterfall happen in one build lol (nothing was harmed from the distilled either)


I run just distilled on leak test. So I feel you there. I've had water spill and squirt places it shouldn't have been and haven't had a problem except sweating a tad more than usual.

TCO


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Just curious if anyone has tried this, but does anyone know if the Barrow D5 Mod Kits fit a Bitspower D5 Mod Top assembly?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That rotary has clearly failed in your first pic,contact EK support and explain the situation.


Ok, thanks. Will do.


----------



## kuppaz88

After two weeks of messing around bending PETG for the first time, here is what I have come up with. Lots of work and lots of stress, but worth it in the end.

Before



After


----------



## OGBeandip

Any input on the Noctua NF-F12 Industrials for radiator fans? I hardly see them mentioned.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Any input on the Noctua NF-F12 Industrials for radiator fans? I hardly see them mentioned.


Work in aerospace? Enjoy the sound of the Blue Angels? Go for 'em


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Work in aerospace? Enjoy the sound of the Blue Angels? Go for 'em


Yeah mine are certainly loud. Although theyre not too bad at 800-1300rpm. Any louder and they sound like im at work in the warehouse at the end of the runway.

Hows the performance compared to the usual high end $20+ radiator fans?


----------



## deadwidesmile

I'm still waiting on my Scythe GT 1450's. I can't wait to compare between SP120's (hahahaaha), Noctua NF12's and the GT's.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I'm still waiting on my Scythe GT 1450's. I can't wait to compare between SP120's (hahahaaha), Noctua NF12's and the GT's.


Its a shame the SP120s look so good out of the box. just cant bring myself to make the sacrifice.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

the real shame is that people keep buying corsair fans despite how well documented their lackluster performance is.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> the real shame is that people keep buying corsair fans despite how well documented their lackluster performance is.


I think the problem is they look good and to a lot of people optimal performance doesnt matter.

I just sold 5 NIB corsair AF120s the other day for retail price, the guy was talking as if theyre high end fans.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I have had sp fans and they are loud. And just generally unpleasant. Theres a reason gentle typhoons have been king for 4-5 years... i literally just swapped some sp120s for ap45s into a pc for my parents. And persepctively/comparitively its like silence

Anyone who has bothered to do the footwork could tell you corsair sp are junk fans. You sold them to some noobs who dont know anything about fans

Just go to any legit review site and its pretty apparent

As far as rad fans go of course. I couldnt tell you about fans for air. Other than deltas are badass


----------



## deadwidesmile

The sad part about SP120's is that they genuinely do have a nice, easily customizable look. In my experience having ordered 20 or so, at least one out of every batch of 5 that I order is dead or REALLY grindy noisy. It's not worth the hassle to return it since it came in a two pack and blahblah. I'm definitely looking forward to the GT's.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Sounds about right.
yeah GT's can be done pretty easily from what I hear but you have to be good at painting..


----------



## deadwidesmile

Luckily, I have no desire to custom paint any fans - lol. That would probably drive me bonkers.

I'm capable but there's really nothing in my build that screams "these should be painted I think".


----------



## pc-illiterate

the only noctua fans worth buying are the nf-f12 ippc. any other noctua fan is mediocre. may as well keep the sp120s


----------



## Ceadderman

Or go with Vardars because they're cheap enough and while they aren't GTs, they're danged near the next best things. If you want all black though you gotta get the 3k rpm units. But those are ER range so you can dial them back to 500rpm value and hunt for their sweet spot.









Now that they've finally released their 140 line thing should get interesting.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the only noctua fans worth buying are the nf-f12 ippc. any other noctua fan is mediocre. may as well keep the sp120s


The nf-f12 ippc is what I use. How are they in performance compared to the vardars and gt?

Im considering changing fans if I can find something thatll do a better job than these in the 700-1300rpm range. 4 pin pwm preffered.


----------



## Henderjc

My first water cooled system.

i7 4790k @4.8ghz
AMD Fury X w/ Aqua Computer copper block

It was fun to assemble and runs cool and silent. I love it


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> The nf-f12 ippc is what I use. How are they in performance compared to the vardars and gt?
> 
> Im considering changing fans if I can find something thatll do a better job than these in the 700-1300rpm range. 4 pin pwm preffered.


everyone using them and thats tested them say theyre great. i wont buy them or varders as i wont buy an aquero. i have zero need to buy pwm fans that would require me to buy a pwm controller.. my ap-15s and yate 1450s run at 5v and keep everything cool while being damn near silent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Henderjc*
> 
> 
> 
> My first water cooled system.
> 
> i7 4790k @4.8ghz
> AMD Fury X w/ Aqua Computer copper block
> 
> It was fun to assemble and runs cool and silent. I love it


nice set-up. i cant believe amd killed dvi outputs. all upgrades will be nvidia for me now...


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Henderjc*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first water cooled system.
> 
> i7 4790k @4.8ghz
> AMD Fury X w/ Aqua Computer copper block
> 
> It was fun to assemble and runs cool and silent. I love it


You could shorten a few runs but I like it. Not a huge fan of bay reservoirs but totally understand when space constraints come into play.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> The nf-f12 ippc is what I use. How are they in performance compared to the vardars and gt?
> 
> Im considering changing fans if I can find something thatll do a better job than these in the 700-1300rpm range. 4 pin pwm preffered.
> 
> 
> 
> everyone using them and thats tested them say theyre great. i wont buy them or varders as i wont buy an aquero. i have zero need to buy pwm fans that would require me to buy a pwm controller.. my ap-15s and yate 1450s run at 5v and keep everything cool while being damn near silent.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Henderjc*
> 
> 
> 
> My first water cooled system.
> 
> i7 4790k @4.8ghz
> AMD Fury X w/ Aqua Computer copper block
> 
> It was fun to assemble and runs cool and silent. I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> nice set-up. i cant believe amd killed dvi outputs. all upgrades will be nvidia for me now...
Click to expand...











nVidia is gonna kill them too. Get yourself some DP/DVI cables and never look back.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Work in aerospace? Enjoy the sound of the Blue Angels? Go for 'em


Are we talking airshow loud, flyby loud, or on the tarmac not that far away loud?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or go with Vardars because they're cheap enough and while they aren't GTs, they're danged near the next best things. *If you want all black though you gotta get the 3k rpm units.* But those are ER range so you can dial them back to 500rpm value and hunt for their sweet spot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that they've finally released their 140 line thing should get interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The F4-120ER (2200 rpm) are all black OR or all white if you prefer that kind of thing


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Are we talking airshow loud, flyby loud, or on the tarmac not that far away loud?


As someone running 8 of these fans in my current system. At 2000rpm we are talking airshow loud.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Work in aerospace? Enjoy the sound of the Blue Angels? Go for 'em




EBM-Pabst 4112NH4 => AirFlow = 355m3/h

2600k @5047MHz on Air.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> As someone running 8 of these fans in my current system. At 2000rpm we are talking airshow loud.


And I want to pick up 18 of the Vardar ff4-140's at some point for a benching rig (if I go for a mo-ra, otherwise it'll probably just be eight). I suddenly have this feeling the word "overkill" and "initial turbine startup sequence five feet away" come to mind as an apt description...


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> As someone running 8 of these fans in my current system. At 2000rpm we are talking airshow loud.
> 
> 
> 
> And I want to pick up 18 of the Vardar ff4-140's at some point for a benching rig (if I go for a mo-ra, otherwise it'll probably just be eight). I suddenly have this feeling the word "overkill" and "initial turbine startup sequence five feet away" come to mind as an apt description...
Click to expand...

meh, if you want to go into overkill territory... then this 140x38 is the better choice







http://products.sanyodenki.com/en/contents/hp0073/list.php?CNo=73&ProCon=1737

Its PWM , gives the vardar a run for its money, although not cheaper, and i think you can find them on Alibaba


----------



## mus1mus

Ohhh why?

This thread took a detour from beautiful, sexy and silent rigs to.....

Loud fans?









Bring on what most of us wanna see.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> And I want to pick up 18 of the Vardar ff4-140's at some point for a benching rig (if I go for a mo-ra, otherwise it'll probably just be eight). I suddenly have this feeling the word "overkill" and "initial turbine startup sequence five feet away" come to mind as an apt description...


I plan on doing the same thing but not in P/P, its for my Tri SLI Titan X buildlog.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Ohhh why?
> 
> This thread took a detour from beautiful, sexy and silent rigs to.....
> 
> Loud fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bring on what most of us wanna see.


It will be a few months at least, and I still have a few more things to figure out anyways.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I plan on doing the same thing but not in P/P, its for my Tri SLI Titan X buildlog.


Mine's for a benching rig, testing things out before going subzero.... Still debating whether to go CPU only, or whether I'll have two universal GPU blocks as well in there, hence why the MO-RA vs 480 debate in my head.


----------



## toggLesss

Project Canyon rev.2 *Build Log*
it won't be much longer now!



still waiting on the SMA8 from CaseLabs _(should be shipping this week)_


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> As someone running 8 of these fans in my current system. At 2000rpm we are talking airshow loud.


bet they're quieter than running 8 Delta 120's at 3800RPM's lol


----------



## tatmMRKIV

delta's have pwm control if you do it right. doyll I think did some tests and the AFB fans were monsters at providing static pressure at lower RPMs


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mine are PWM models (on the deltas) but sometimes when I'm not home I'll run them to 3800 (can shoot to max 4000) when I'm running [email protected] (well used to I have my SP120QE's in the JAC build a lot quieter lol)


----------



## Origondoo

Hi all,

I'll try to post something related to the watercooling in its essence









I'm redoing my system in order to optimize the air flow inside the case and lower so the temperatures. The case is a LianLi PC-TU200, very rare candidate.

Any feedback and ideas are very welcome.

Here the link to the (re) build log
http://www.overclock.net/t/1568903/re-build-log-lian-li-pc-tu-200-custom-water-cooled

And since it's also a pictures thread... here the current status:


----------



## PCModderMike

Preparing parts for my S5 revamp. Slowly but surely.










Should have cleaned that radiator a little better.


----------



## Ceadderman

PEs?









~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> PEs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's correct.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice I am getting those for my build too. Hope they still have good stock since you're getting four of them.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice I am getting those for my build too. Hope they still have good stock since you're getting four of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder










Yea it does look like they're pushing the new SE series, so PE might be fading away.
Two of these are left over from my sponsored build over a year ago, so I only bought a couple of more to match what I had and fill my new pedestal.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea it does look like they're pushing the new SE series, so PE might be fading away.
> Two of these are left over from my sponsored build over a year ago, so I only bought a couple of more to match what I had and fill my new pedestal.


For the Pedestal? No one's going to see them down there!









Joking because my fiance asked something similar when I said I had to paint the radiators for my pedestal last weekend


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice I am getting those for my build too. Hope they still have good stock since you're getting four of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea it does look like they're pushing the new SE series, so PE might be fading away.
> Two of these are left over from my sponsored build over a year ago, so I only bought a couple of more to match what I had and fill my new pedestal.
Click to expand...

From what i understand,the XE,PE and SE are staying,girth for everyone!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea it does look like they're pushing the new SE series, so PE might be fading away.
> Two of these are left over from my sponsored build over a year ago, so I only bought a couple of more to match what I had and fill my new pedestal.
> 
> 
> 
> For the Pedestal? No one's going to see them down there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joking because my fiance asked something similar when I said I had to paint the radiators for my pedestal last weekend
Click to expand...

Haha guess she's got a point technically. However, me being overly particular about these types of things it would bug me if all the rads didn't match.


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Haha guess she's got a point technically. However, me being overly particular about these types of things it would bug me if all the rads didn't match.


this is what i did to my 900d build
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gibLC8lwFAY


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Henderjc*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first water cooled system.
> 
> i7 4790k @4.8ghz
> AMD Fury X w/ Aqua Computer copper block
> 
> It was fun to assemble and runs cool and silent. I love it


Nice build


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually it's the second worst feeling . . . .
> 
> The worst feeling, is the feeling you get when you know you read from a dozen experienced people here about how to leak test with air, and the disasters it's saved them from, . . . and that you decided to start air testing too. . . the next time . . .
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Henderjc*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first water cooled system.
> 
> i7 4790k @4.8ghz
> AMD Fury X w/ Aqua Computer copper block
> 
> It was fun to assemble and runs cool and silent. I love it


Nice Build welcome to the club congrats


----------



## clubbin09

im planing on getting 2 980 evga ssc are they good cards this is my first water cooled build and i did my mates one in hard tubing couple of weeks ago i was going to mine in hard tubing but i got scare at the last minute with a leak and i didnt want to go on















heres a video im adding more white and two 980s very soon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gibLC8lwFAY


----------



## funfordcobra

Hey guys I've asked in the EK thread but no responses.

I'm looking for a place locally that sells 15x1mm orings for my EK waterblock. I can't find anything so small at home depot or Lowes and internet searches don't turn up anything.

These are the orings that are used to attach the blanks and SLI terminals.

Thank you.


----------



## Jflisk

Took my FX9590 down to 1.45V from 1.47V The results on the cooling is not drastic but noticeable temp drops. Also the fact that most people say this chip should be manually set at 1.47 for 4.7 GHZ . I think at 5.0 1.47 might work also might have to test the theory. Also thinking about finding the manual clock for the 8350 might set it there see what the temps are. If the 9590 will go down that far. I dont have anything to base my temps on so I am trying to figure that out. Like for example a chip running at 1.3+ to 1.4V will be lower temps then I will ever see on this thing. I went from air 8350 to watercooled 9590 so I am looking for some honest input on what to base the temps on watercooled. I read around on the 9590 and the results are all over the place. Right now with the voltage drop with 240MM monsta60 and 280MM Radiator. I am at 51-52C playing BFH for hours. Same configuration with the extra voltage 55-57C. These are not the water temps but the Temp 1 CPU. Does 0.02 volts actually add that much wattage.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Haha guess she's got a point technically. However, me being overly particular about these types of things it would bug me if all the rads didn't match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is what i did to my 900d build
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gibLC8lwFAY
Click to expand...










That's nice.


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Hey guys I've asked in the EK thread but no responses.
> 
> I'm looking for a place locally that sells 15x1mm orings for my EK waterblock. I can't find anything so small at home depot or Lowes and internet searches don't turn up anything.
> 
> These are the orings that are used to attach the blanks and SLI terminals.
> 
> Thank you.


i dont know i would just buy another one i got 2 spare with the one i brought


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's nice.


thank you i cant wait to get 2 980s and see what she looks like when im done my friend says i should do hard tubing again but im a little scared after last time but i did do his 900d


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Hey guys I've asked in the EK thread but no responses.
> 
> I'm looking for a place locally that sells 15x1mm orings for my EK waterblock. I can't find anything so small at home depot or Lowes and internet searches don't turn up anything.
> 
> These are the orings that are used to attach the blanks and SLI terminals.
> 
> Thank you.


Try a auto parts or pump supply retailer. You may be surprised what you can find locally.









~Ceadder


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> i dont know i would just buy another one i got 2 spare with the one i brought


Ugh I was shorted 1 much less given any extras..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try a auto parts or pump supply retailer. You may be surprised what you can find locally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


OK I'll try that thank you.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Now we're getting somewhere.. wet




Lots more pics in build log in signature


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Ugh I was shorted 1 much less given any extras..
> OK I'll try that thank you.


did your gpu water block have any


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Now we're getting somewhere.. wet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots more pics in build log in signature


whats the fan headers for


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Hey guys I've asked in the EK thread but no responses.
> 
> I'm looking for a place locally that sells 15x1mm orings for my EK waterblock. I can't find anything so small at home depot or Lowes and internet searches don't turn up anything.
> 
> These are the orings that are used to attach the blanks and SLI terminals.
> 
> Thank you.


Unless you have something local that uses metric then you are probably out of luck,just ebay it.


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Hey guys I've asked in the EK thread but no responses.
> 
> I'm looking for a place locally that sells 15x1mm orings for my EK waterblock. I can't find anything so small at home depot or Lowes and internet searches don't turn up anything.
> 
> These are the orings that are used to attach the blanks and SLI terminals.
> 
> Thank you.


how many do you need ive got some spare


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Unless you have something local that uses metric then you are probably out of luck,just ebay it.


Yea I kind of got that by the responses I've been getting over the phone lol. Most pump companies here in Dallas are huge industrial pump companies that wont bat an eye for less that 100k. So my lil .001 cent oring is laughable and I feel awkward after asking lol. even little pump shops turn up blank.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> how many do you need ive got some spare


I only need 1 lol. I found a set at amazon and ordered them via 2 day shipping.

I ordered these: http://www.amazon.com/Automobile-Rings-Sealing-Gasket-Washers/dp/B008ASXSTY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1439317464&sr=8-11&keywords=15x1mm+oring

Will they work? Technically the demensions are the same but the orings in my block look oval instead of round. Won't they just pop out?

Haha already installed the terminal and blank anyway. I used alittle teflonand It's not "leaking" but seeping very very very VERY little at the lowest point of the block. It seems superficial and looks like I can operate it until I get my hands on some more.


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Yea I kind of got that by the responses I've been getting over the phone lol. Most pump companies here in Dallas are huge industrial pump companies that wont bat an eye for less that 100k. So my lil .001 cent oring is laughable and I feel awkward after asking lol. even little pump shops turn up blank.
> I only need 1 lol. I found a set at amazon and ordered them via 2 day shipping.
> 
> I ordered these: http://www.amazon.com/Automobile-Rings-Sealing-Gasket-Washers/dp/B008ASXSTY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1439317464&sr=8-11&keywords=15x1mm+oring
> 
> Will they work? Technically the demensions are the same but the orings in my block look oval instead of round. Won't they just pop out?
> 
> Haha already installed the terminal and blank anyway. I used alittle teflonand It's not "leaking" but seeping very very very VERY little at the lowest point of the block. It seems superficial and looks like I can operate it until I get my hands on some more.


what waterblock are you using they might not fit with stuff like this you need the same shape


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Now we're getting somewhere.. wet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots more pics in build log in signature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whats the fan headers for
Click to expand...

Extra PWM sources for my fans. I have to separate power from PWM signal with my fans... they are Deltas.


----------



## cgull

This is a new case.. came all the way from Germany..
Quick questions..name that case and which motherboard to go with it.



Rads going in will be 360 monsta down the bottom and a 60mm 480 up top

the arctic camo sabertooth is destined for an all white build, including white pcb Gpu , a 970 hall of fame, which is non reference, so a standard block not a full cover with a cpu block..so not a lot of rad space required.
.yeah with blueberry coolant the only other colour.. tossing up between this case or nzxt h630 or nzxt noctis 450 ... the corsair 780t would be perfect accept it's not all white.. the 450 is too squishy, the 630 needs modding..window and some fan holes in the front and top...would look great in this case , but ...

so would the rampage 5 e.. with a full monoblock for mobo and 2 gpu's-probably 970's.. make good use of 2 big rads.. red coolant.
.if not this case then the r5e will go into a Tt x9 snow edition with window in top and both sides(bottom of sides will keep mesh)...

So decisions decisions...


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Extra PWM sources for my fans. I have to separate power from PWM signal with my fans... they are Deltas.


how did you do that


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Extra PWM sources for my fans. I have to separate power from PWM signal with my fans... they are Deltas.
> 
> 
> 
> how did you do that
Click to expand...

Probably made his own cables using the existing fan connectors with fresh pins and used 4pin female connectors with male pins. It's quite simple really. Anyone can do it.









~Ceadder


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> what waterblock are you using they might not fit with stuff like this you need the same shape


I feel you're are right because there is no listing for (inner diameter) of the oring. Those look too thick. I'm using TitanX waterblocks on gtx 980Tis from EK and their orings are oval, not round.

I've communicated with EK over 4 emails that I need ONE 15x1mm oring that they "shorted me" without any success. I don't know how many other ways I can say it. Do they speak English in Slovenia? I googled it and it said yes.. So I don't understand why they don't understand...

I'm on my 3rd day of emails from them now when my first email clearly states I need ONE 15x1mm oring and asking either to send me one, tell me the specs, or send me a store link..


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I feel you're are right because there is no listing for (inner diameter) of the oring. Those look too thick. I'm using TitanX waterblocks on gtx 980Tis from EK and their orings are oval, not round.
> 
> I've communicated with EK over 4 emails that I need ONE 15x1mm oring that they "shorted me" without any success. I don't know how many other ways I can say it. Do they speak English in Slovenia? I googled it and it said yes.. So I don't understand why they don't understand...
> 
> I'm on my 3rd day of emails from them now when my first email clearly states I need ONE 15x1mm oring and asking either to send me one, tell me the specs, or send me a store link..


upload a pic so i can see it or does it look like this block that ive got


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I feel you're are right because there is no listing for (inner diameter) of the oring. Those look too thick. I'm using TitanX waterblocks on gtx 980Tis from EK and their orings are oval, not round.
> 
> I've communicated with EK over 4 emails that I need ONE 15x1mm oring that they "shorted me" without any success. I don't know how many other ways I can say it. Do they speak English in Slovenia? I googled it and it said yes.. So I don't understand why they don't understand...
> 
> I'm on my 3rd day of emails from them now when my first email clearly states I need ONE 15x1mm oring and asking either to send me one, tell me the specs, or send me a store link..


did you check this?

https://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/EK_ORING.pdf

from those specs you can search an online o-ring retailer and order it.

http://www.oringsusa.com/html/o-rings.html


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Extra PWM sources for my fans. I have to separate power from PWM signal with my fans... they are Deltas.
> 
> 
> 
> how did you do that
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Probably made his own cables using the existing fan connectors with fresh pins and used 4pin female connectors with male pins. It's quite simple really. Anyone can do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I used these, http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=60

Had to cut out a slot in the GPU block so it would fit, the pictures are in my build log.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> upload a pic so i can see it or does it look like this block that ive got


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> did you check this?
> 
> https://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/EK_ORING.pdf
> 
> from those specs you can search an online o-ring retailer and order it.
> 
> http://www.oringsusa.com/html/o-rings.html


Its the oval 1x15mm, not the g1/4 oring. Just if there's any confusion.



After 8 hours of use it is seeping down this much:



No moisture is making contact anywhere near the pcb and that's why I call it superficial, but also needs to be fixed asap.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Its the oval 1x15mm, not the g1/4 oring. Just if there's any confusion.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No need for photobucket bud; you can upload directly to the forum


----------



## Kinaesthetic

So, my question earlier was completely glossed over and unanswered, and it doesn't really need an entire thread dedicated to it, so I'm gonna ask again.

Does anyone know if the Barrow D5 mod-kit fit the Bitspower D5 pump top kits?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Yea I kind of got that by the responses I've been getting over the phone lol. Most pump companies here in Dallas are huge industrial pump companies that wont bat an eye for less that 100k. So my lil .001 cent oring is laughable and I feel awkward after asking lol. even little pump shops turn up blank.
> I only need 1 lol. I found a set at amazon and ordered them via 2 day shipping.
> 
> I ordered these: http://www.amazon.com/Automobile-Rings-Sealing-Gasket-Washers/dp/B008ASXSTY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1439317464&sr=8-11&keywords=15x1mm+oring
> 
> Will they work? Technically the demensions are the same but the orings in my block look oval instead of round. Won't they just pop out?
> 
> Haha already installed the terminal and blank anyway. I used alittle teflonand It's not "leaking" but seeping very very very VERY little at the lowest point of the block. It seems superficial and looks like I can operate it until I get my hands on some more.
> 
> 
> 
> what waterblock are you using they might not fit with stuff like this you need the same shape
Click to expand...

No, you dont, all o-rings come round, the shape is from the fitting.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No, you dont, all o-rings come round, the shape is from the fitting.


well I cancelled that order (amazon) because I'm fairly sure that the inner diameter was wrong anyway. The one oring that was included was the same shape loose as the ones in the blocks. (oval) So that was throwing me off, plus no communication from EK is not helping.

Hopefully EK sees the note enclosed to my new unnecessary order just for the orings included with the blank. If I left this up to them my system would be down 2-3 weeks lol..

They don't seem to understand "you didn't give me enough orings." lol..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Had trouble with C48s sealing on a EK Multi Option bottom so they were Replaced with XSPC Compression Fittings. Fit Snug and Tight. The C48s were tight but not water-tight









Needless to say It through me off a tad. It's almost as if you could carve out the acrylic Multi Option bottom a tad and the C48s would actually lock down more. The Shape of the XSPC Fittings are a tad curved toward the threads and allows them to screw in a tad more accomplishing the Watertight seal needed on the Ek Multi Top.

In Any Case (Pun intended) here is the Video.







I crack myself up sometimes.





I have leak tested for about 6 hours or so and no leaks. I feel confident.

Bout to do a first boot and try to install windows.

TCO


----------



## Recr3ational

This might be a stupid question but is there an "actual size" template of a 240+ rad on the Internet where I can directly trace of my monitor? I don't really want to by a printer just to print some templates out for my rad box.

Or wouldn't it work?


----------



## RatDog

how about a ruler and real dimensions?


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> how about a ruler and real dimensions?


Ooo. Better than trying to copy it of an actual rad. Thanks dude!


----------



## Kimir

Finally filled my bench table yesterday, after some waiting for screw and the installation of my new (used) desk, I have much more room and it's a lot cleaner than it used to be.


----------



## Jasonbla20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Hey guys I've asked in the EK thread but no responses.
> 
> I'm looking for a place locally that sells 15x1mm orings for my EK waterblock. I can't find anything so small at home depot or Lowes and internet searches don't turn up anything.
> 
> These are the orings that are used to attach the blanks and SLI terminals.
> 
> Thank you.


While it's not local, at work I use mcmastercarr.com for nearly everything. They have a huge selection of industrial supply which includes tons of orings.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Took my FX9590 down to 1.45V from 1.47V The results on the cooling is not drastic but noticeable temp drops. Also the fact that most people say this chip should be manually set at 1.47 for 4.7 GHZ . I think at 5.0 1.47 might work also might have to test the theory. Also thinking about finding the manual clock for the 8350 might set it there see what the temps are. If the 9590 will go down that far. I dont have anything to base my temps on so I am trying to figure that out. Like for example a chip running at 1.3+ to 1.4V will be lower temps then I will ever see on this thing. I went from air 8350 to watercooled 9590 so I am looking for some honest input on what to base the temps on watercooled. I read around on the 9590 and the results are all over the place. Right now with the voltage drop with 240MM monsta60 and 280MM Radiator. I am at 51-52C playing BFH for hours. Same configuration with the extra voltage 55-57C. These are not the water temps but the Temp 1 CPU. Does 0.02 volts actually add that much wattage.


A lot of guys in the Vishera thread have watercooled their rigs. They can give you more insight on these.

But for your question on temps, these chips love being on water. And the gains in temps will be more apparent than most non-delidded Intel chips as long as the block to IHS mating is good.

I have a couple 360s for a single GPU + FX8370E for some benching and hefty overclocks. 17C ambient, maintained my chip within 60C at all times.

Temp scaling on these chips is also more linear given the right scenario and before hitting the saturation point. Just be wary that these chips don't have an on-die or physical sensors so low readings are not accurate.

More of these talks will not lie with this thread's core purposes so I would advise you to visit the Vishera thread.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Damn. Bitspiwer Bragi setup came in... completely void of the cpu and main connecting block. Total let down after waiting for the extra 4 days for fedex's f up


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Damn. Bitspiwer Bragi setup came in... completely void of the cpu and main connecting block. Total let down after waiting for the extra 4 days for fedex's f up


Now thats gotta be frustrating. Where did you buy it?


----------



## deadwidesmile

Ppcs. It was their last one so I'm feeling screwed a tad. It was checked and signed of as well. Maaaan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Damn. Bitspiwer Bragi setup came in... completely void of the cpu and main connecting block. Total let down after waiting for the extra 4 days for fedex's f up


Email them with pics and it will get solved. Do it now though don't procrastinate. You've 36hours to contact them with issues. If you don't hear back, then send a follow up quoting the Email you sent. I know it's frustrating but they really are busy busy busy.









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

I'll send out another E-mail with pictures. I already sent one and had no response. But, I'm also on the West Coast. It was like 5pm in Florida when I shot off an E-mail to them.

I just have to let down a guy that was going to buy my old rig setup in my old Phantom 820 by like... a week or two. He's already anxious and now I'm telling him I can't meet him for another 1-2 weeks? He's probably looking into another setup at this point.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Ppcs. It was their last one so I'm feeling screwed a tad. It was checked and signed of as well. Maaaan.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Email them with pics and it will get solved. Do it now though don't procrastinate. You've 36hours to contact them with issues. If you don't hear back, then send a follow up quoting the Email you sent. I know it's frustrating but they really are busy busy busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


PPCS is an awesome company. I ordered a monsoon bending kit and monsoon forgot to include the hand saw. I shot PPCS an email and they ask to see pictures (not sure how that would prove anything though lol). I sent everything and they gave this info to monsoon. About a few days later I was sent the hand saw. PPCS is very good and their customer service is even better. Just explain everything to them, and they will get everything sorted out.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Just shot off some pictures and another E-mail. Hope they can get one to me this week.


----------



## TrumpyAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> So, my question earlier was completely glossed over and unanswered, and it doesn't really need an entire thread dedicated to it, so I'm gonna ask again.
> 
> Does anyone know if the Barrow D5 mod-kit fit the Bitspower D5 pump top kits?


I think maybe no reply means no one knows?

I don't. Sorry.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> So, my question earlier was completely glossed over and unanswered, and it doesn't really need an entire thread dedicated to it, so I'm gonna ask again.
> 
> Does anyone know if the Barrow D5 mod-kit fit the Bitspower D5 pump top kits?


No reason at all it shouldn't. It uses the default Laing lock ring size so should work on any product that also does. Eg; Photon pump res, BP pump tops, Standard Laing top etc


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> So, my question earlier was completely glossed over and unanswered, and it doesn't really need an entire thread dedicated to it, so I'm gonna ask again.
> 
> Does anyone know if the Barrow D5 mod-kit fit the Bitspower D5 pump top kits?


based on what i see on this link:

http://www.barrow.com.cn/case/ico/292.html

looks like it probably will.

barrow is pretty much an exact replica of bp. my guess is they come out of the same factory and just get branded different.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think the Barrows are BP knockoffs unless they came out of the same factory. Their fittings look *exactly* like BP fittings too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> based on what i see on this link:
> 
> http://www.barrow.com.cn/case/ico/292.html
> 
> looks like it probably will.
> 
> barrow is pretty much an exact replica of bp. my guess is they come out of the same factory and just get branded different.


Nerp ... Barrow and BP are made in completely different places.

Barrow is just "Inspired" by BP. There are many differences when you have them side by side.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, is there a "best" tubing manufacturer? I need 1/2id 3/4od tubing, but I'm not sure if there are good brands and whatnot.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, is there a "best" tubing manufacturer? I need 1/2id 3/4od tubing, but I'm not sure if there are good brands and whatnot.


I dont know about best. But I use the primochill primoflex advanced LRT. I havent noticed any problems so far but I know closer to its original release there was a lot of problems with primochill tube.

Ive only user colored tube though. Not clear, though I do own some. Ive got a few boxes of clear 1/2 id 3/4od lying around. Pay shipping and its all yours.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, is there a "best" tubing manufacturer? I need 1/2id 3/4od tubing, but I'm not sure if there are good brands and whatnot.


I don't know either because I want to know. I have 7/16" fittings, but I want to try the new mayhems tubing for my Pastel coolant. I hear it doesn't have any leeching effects or plasticizers. OR I might just get the primochill advanced LRT tubing. I need some for my SMA8


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I don't know either because I want to know. I have 7/16" fittings, but I want to try the new mayhems tubing for my Pastel coolant. I hear it doesn't have any leeching effects or plasticizers. OR I might just get the primochill advanced LRT tubing. I need some for my SMA8


Ive got 1/2 3/4, 3/8 5/8, and 7/16 5/8 if you need any tube.


----------



## Gabrielzm

some night shots with the new coolant.


----------



## funfordcobra

So I heard back on the EK titanX block orings.. They are proprietary and won't be found anywhere but from them because they are not round but more like a "Race track oval" shape. Most expensive orings I've ever bought. 6 for 33 dollars lol.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> some night shots with the new coolant.


That coolant looks great. The Jade color worked out really good.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, is there a "best" tubing manufacturer? I need 1/2id 3/4od tubing, but I'm not sure if there are good brands and whatnot.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know either because I want to know. I have 7/16" fittings, but I want to try the new mayhems tubing for my Pastel coolant. I hear it doesn't have any leeching effects or plasticizers. OR I might just get the primochill advanced LRT tubing. I need some for my SMA8
Click to expand...

Saint-Gobain
http://www.overclock.net/t/1347354/tygon-user-club/0_100


----------



## Georgey123

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some night shots with the new coolant.






That looks so cool, the colour turned out great. Looks much more unique over the black that you had imo


----------



## EduardoB

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some night shots with the new coolant.






Great color, mate. Beautiful build!!


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Agreed, fantastic colour combo


----------



## deadwidesmile

@Gabrielzm why no clear plexi terminal? Just curious. Beautiful build man. That's art more than a pc.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> So I heard back on the EK titanX block orings.. They are proprietary and won't be found anywhere but from them because they are not round but more like a "Race track oval" shape. Most expensive orings I've ever bought. 6 for 33 dollars lol.


That's ... very disappointing. EK charged you $33 so you could get the o-ring they didn't put in your product?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> @Gabrielzm why no clear plexi terminal? Just curious. Beautiful build man. That's art more than a pc.


I'm thinking about dropping my terminal and going with the tubes. Tubes are cool OK







mine is AC though and AC doesn't have plexi bridges


----------



## deadwidesmile

I ditched tubes for a terminal









Really been into the clear square water blocks in my pc Build recently


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> That's ... very disappointing. EK charged you $33 so you could get the o-ring they didn't put in your product?
> I'm thinking about dropping my terminal and going with the tubes. Tubes are cool OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine is AC though and AC doesn't have plexi bridges


Well basically yea. I ordered a 6 dollar part and they threw in the orings free. They are just piggybacking. It's $33 because of the shipping from Slovenia. $25 is shipping lol..


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I don't know either because I want to know. I have 7/16" fittings, but I want to try the new mayhems tubing for my Pastel coolant. I hear it doesn't have any leeching effects or plasticizers. OR I might just get the primochill advanced LRT tubing. I need some for my SMA8


Get mayhems tubing injera it's better than primochill


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Get mayhems tubing injera it's better than primochill


The problem with Mayhem's the is that it's only made in a few sizes. I would have used theirs but they don't do my fitting size, and I don't think they do injera's either


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I dont know about best. But I use the primochill primoflex advanced LRT. I havent noticed any problems so far but I know closer to its original release there was a lot of problems with primochill tube.
> 
> Ive only user colored tube though. Not clear, though I do own some. Ive got a few boxes of clear 1/2 id 3/4od lying around. Pay shipping and its all yours.


Yeah man, I'll totally take it!! I godda check with my parents to make sure they're ok wih it, but wow, thank you!!


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Yeah man, I'll totally take it!! I godda check with my parents to make sure they're ok wih it, but wow, thank you!!


No problem, I wasnt going to use it. PM me when youre ready to talk details.


----------



## LunaP

Hey again, quick question on my Photon 270 Res, I was flushing out my loop w/ an external pump yesterday. I noticed that the water level was full throughout the loop and the acrylic felt warm since i was using hot water.

My concern is that a few minutes into the process I noticed some water dripping on the floor and found it was coming out the side casing of the 270, basically the encasing that holds the glass. I'm not sure if it was due to pressure or not, since after stopping teh pump the water stopped ocming out.

I normally use my bayres as a pump while the 270 stays full (For looks) and water just goes right through. I used paint to show where the water was coming out from and drew a line around the perimeter. Leak was in small drops.

Filling it up causes no leaks, so curious if it was just due to pressure that something was stretching or if I need to buy a new one. Since I have everything back together and don't want to fill the whole system just to find out. Pic isn't mine just borrowed for example purposes.


----------



## Ceadderman

What kind of pump were you using to flush your system?









Dunno, but I use a single wrap of Teflon tape on each end of my Res. It had a couple small leaks at the caps and just a little tape fixed the issue.

In your case, I would suggest running the loop with no added pressure from your outside source for a bit. Make sure to put some Blue Towels under the Res(or another brand something that will alert you to a problem) so you can immediately see if there is a problem. I don't think you'll need tape but that's the point of leak testing. Might just need to tighten those caps a little.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

When ordering demici filters is it od or Id dimensions needed toount a 360 filter on the inside part of my case directly to a 360 rad. My guess is od is if your putting it on the outside of the case being od is larger. And id for mounting directly on the rad / fans


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe that it's OD for DemciFlex filters. If you look for a 120 filter you'll see what I mean.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> @Gabrielzm why no clear plexi terminal? Just curious. Beautiful build man. That's art more than a pc.


I actually prefer visually the tubes mate over the squared/rectangular box. Beside the tubes give you the freedom to choose parallel or serial whenever you want. GPUs were in serial when I first started this build.

Thks folks I like the color too and the fact that now I can actually see the blocks.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> *I actually prefer visually the tubes mate over the squared/rectangular box*. Beside the tubes give you the freedom to choose parallel or serial whenever you want. GPUs were in serial when I first started this build.
> 
> Thks folks I like the color too and the fact that now I can actually see the blocks.


Same here. Not saying bridges don't look good but that's my preference.

Oh by the way, the jade color does look real good.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What kind of pump were you using to flush your system?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno, but I use a single wrap of Teflon tape on each end of my Res. It had a couple small leaks at the caps and just a little tape fixed the issue.
> 
> In your case, I would suggest running the loop with no added pressure from your outside source for a bit. Make sure to put some Blue Towels under the Res(or another brand something that will alert you to a problem) so you can immediately see if there is a problem. I don't think you'll need tape but that's the point of leak testing. Might just need to tighten those caps a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


ONly issue is it wasn't coming from the caps it was coming from the black area surround the glass. THe Pump I was using was a small submersible water pump recommended by many here to me a year ago. Here's the process I used yesterday.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Here's how my loop is setup, (been running flawlessly for almost 2 years now. Bay res has the Pump, and the XSPC photon 270 in the center is filled completely so water passes through.



Issue was like the first pic I showed where the glass meets the black part @ the bottom the small drops were coming out of the area where the glass meets the black. So my main concern was just that to much pressure was being applied into the loop even though water didn't appear to be going out as fast, I didn't have the res pump on during which might be why.

Either way just wanted to verify if that means its been compromised or if I should be good. PC is currently drying off as I drained out the water and there were some splashes here and there from hidden water, so I want to ensure everythings dry before firing it back up and running a leak test as I"m putting in new cards.


----------



## Archea47

Hey Team,

So I know Mayhem's Blitz Part 2 is safe for running in the system

What about Blitz P1? I want to flush my radiators with it but don't have spare pumps laying around apart from the dual d5 setup I have for this build. They have acetal tops. I don't care if the flex tube for the flush gets ruined by the P1 but I don't want to ruin the pumps, pump housing, orings, etc. The idea for the flushing setup is filter -> res -> pump -> 6 rads -> (back to filter), so that if any chunks of flux come rushing out they wont be ingested by the pump

The filter is a cheap, glass-bowled plastic mesh fuel filter, like one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WIZSEEE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

To be clear, the filter isn't for use in the final system. Just for flushing incase something comes out


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Team,
> 
> So I know Mayhem's Blitz Part 2 is safe for running in the system
> 
> What about Blitz P1? I want to flush my radiators with it but don't have spare pumps laying around apart from the dual d5 setup I have for this build. They have acetal tops. I don't care if the flex tube for the flush gets ruined by the P1 but I don't want to ruin the pumps, pump housing, orings, etc. The idea for the flushing setup is filter -> res -> pump -> 6 rads -> (back to filter), so that if any chunks of flux come rushing out they wont be ingested by the pump
> 
> The filter is a cheap, glass-bowled plastic mesh fuel filter, like one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WIZSEEE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
> 
> To be clear, the filter isn't for use in the final system. Just for flushing incase something comes out


You use part 1 on just the radiators OUTSIDE the loop. You don't need spare pumps at all. Just use part 1, and then hook he rads up to the loop. Then run part 2. Once part two has been in for (is it 24 hours???), I normally flush with Distilled a few times to get it all out. Then I fill it up with my coolant.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You use part 1 on just the radiators OUTSIDE the loop. You don't need spare pumps at all. Just use part 1, and then hook he rads up to the loop. Then run part 2. Once part two has been in for (is it 24 hours???), I normally flush with Distilled a few times to get it all out. Then I fill it up with my coolant.


Ah. I suppose I should have read the directions









I suppose I'll set em up tonight with the Part 1, tomorrow after work I'll manual flush a couple times with distilled and then use the pump setup to push some more distilled through JIC

This is for outside the system. BTW Coolgate G2 white goodness:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Ah. I suppose I should have read the directions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose I'll set em up tonight with the Part 1, tomorrow after work I'll manual flush a couple times with distilled and then use the pump setup to push some more distilled through JIC
> 
> This is for outside the system. BTW Coolgate G2 white goodness:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


good job on the painting. Don't leave blitz part I for more than 12 hours. If my memory serve instructions says between 6-12 hours.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Turns out PPCS sent me the wrong one and sent the clear bragi to someone else or, the page wasn't updated enough to tell me. Either way, I'm eating $41.00 in doing due to needing out yesterday.

Great customer service, kind of crap policy. Duke was prompt and overall a great guy to work with. Just hard having to order again, cost me more for not exactly what was wanted in the first place because of vendor oversight. Will be doing a tad more shipping around.

Again, Duke and overall customer service was very prompt and such.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Turns out PPCS sent me the wrong one and sent the clear bragi to someone else or, the page wasn't updated enough to tell me. Either way, I'm eating $41.00 in doing due to needing out yesterday.
> 
> Great customer service, kind of crap policy. Duke was prompt and overall a great guy to work with. Just hard having to order again, cost me more for not exactly what was wanted in the first place because of vendor oversight. Will be doing a tad more shipping around.
> 
> Again, Duke and overall customer service was very prompt and such.


I've talked with duke before, and great guy. They are an awesome company. However, are you saying you lost money? That's not right. It was on their end, so they should be covering all shipping cost, and they should even give you something such as free shipping on your next order. Ask them about that.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Turns out PPCS sent me the wrong one and sent the clear bragi to someone else or, the page wasn't updated enough to tell me. Either way, I'm eating $41.00 in doing due to needing out yesterday.
> 
> Great customer service, kind of crap policy. Duke was prompt and overall a great guy to work with. Just hard having to order again, cost me more for not exactly what was wanted in the first place because of vendor oversight. Will be doing a tad more shipping around.
> 
> Again, Duke and overall customer service was very prompt and such.


In my experience, Duke is a great guy. Accounting is chimps.

I canceled a preorder on around 14 26$ fans. And they refunded me for 1 fan. After getting accounting over email 3 times they wouldnt give any response that didnt seem like a copy paste from a policy book. Called again and got duke again, fixed it instantly.

Although I will say overall im not pleased with PPCS. They always mess something up on my order. Like a previous order they sent the wrong radiator. And on another order they charged me for cable sleeving on some fans but never did it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> In my experience, Duke is a great guy. Accounting is chimps.
> 
> I canceled a preorder on around 14 26$ fans. And they refunded me for 1 fan. After getting accounting over email 3 times they wouldnt give any response that didnt seem like a copy paste from a policy book. Called again and got duke again, fixed it instantly.
> 
> Although I will say overall im not pleased with PPCS. They always mess something up on my order. Like a previous order they sent the wrong radiator. And on another order they charged me for cable sleeving on some fans but never did it.


One thing that pissed me off about them was this... About 2 weeks after I ordered my RX480 for $122.95, they dropped it to $99.95. I was so mad lol. And I haven't even used it yet because I'm waiting on my case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Maybe throw a Tshirt in for your inconvenience?









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've talked with duke before, and great guy. They are an awesome company. However, are you saying you lost money? That's not right. It was on their end, so they should be covering all shipping cost, and they should even give you something such as free shipping on your next order. Ask them about that.


Yeah, I'm eating shipping cost on at least the new order. I hope I'm not losing shipping cost both ways (first order they got wrong and the second I have to get before next week).

I talked about them covering the shipping cost since they messed up entirely and they said no. They'd cover shipping back of the wrong item. They would cover shipping on standard from what I understand? I was driving and couldn't quite hear him clearly. Either way, I can't wait. I have to have the other system going next Monday to make deadline.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> good job on the painting. Don't leave blitz part I for more than 12 hours. If my memory serve instructions says between 6-12 hours.


Thanks Gabrielzm! BTW love the Jade

In the 6-12 hours case, it may be easiest for me to do 6 hours rather than 12. Anyone have an opinion as to any difference in efficacy?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks Gabrielzm! BTW love the Jade
> 
> In the 6-12 hours case, it may be easiest for me to do 6 hours rather than 12. Anyone have an opinion as to any difference in efficacy?


Yeah I believe 12 is the limit for part 1, and 24 hours is the limit for part 2. I ran part 2 for a little over 24 hours


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks Gabrielzm! BTW love the Jade
> 
> In the 6-12 hours case, it may be easiest for me to do 6 hours rather than 12. Anyone have an opinion as to any difference in efficacy?


6 hours should be enough. Also, don't rely only on the blitz part I. Use the old trusted method of hot/warm water shake discard repeat several times before using blitz. You can use a paper filter to check on the quality of the water been discarded and have fun analyzing the flux coming out. That would save you trouble latter.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 6 hours should be enough. Also, don't rely only on the blitz part I. Use the old trusted method of hot/warm water shake discard repeat several times before using blitz. You can use a paper filter to check on the quality of the water been discarded and have fun analyzing the flux coming out. That would save you trouble latter.


What I did with mine before the blits kit (and before I started using colored coolant besides just plain old distilled), was do a 4:1 ratio of water and white distilled vinegar. In fact, while im waiting on my case to come within the next week, I'm going to do the water/vinegar flush right now


----------



## Georgey123

+1 for Duke @ ppcs. After receiving the wrong pump top I contacted them by phone from here in Aus and he was fantastic.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What I did with mine before the blits kit (and before I started using colored coolant besides just plain old distilled), was do a 4:1 ratio of water and white distilled vinegar. In fact, while im waiting on my case to come within the next week, I'm going to do the water/vinegar flush right now


why would you do that + the blitz part I? If you are willing to use vinegar then why use the blitz part 1 at all?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> why would you do that + the blitz part I? If you are willing to use vinegar then why use the blitz part 1 at all?


Too be "EXTRA" Precautious lol. But it's only $10 more for the Pro kit, so why not just get part 1 included. This is of course ordering from PPCS, as they don't sell them separately like the Mayhems website does. I just don't want to pay the shipping cost for Europe to the US. But I also need the part 2, so I just ordered the whole kit. Also the fact that ill be adding my 4 month old Pastel to new pastel coolant to make more liters. Better be safe than sorry


----------



## MadHatter5045

I got some Vardar F3's that I plan to paint so I took one apart to see what I was getting into. I'm having trouble getting it back together. Is there a trick to getting the ball bearing and plastic washer to stay pushed down on the back so I can get the clip back on?


----------



## OGBeandip

How quiet are the 2000rpm Vardars at max rpm?

I just saw jayztwocents video and im not sure if hes being honest or a typical youtube shill.

Curious because im ordering some of the F4-120-ER and the noise is one of the big reasons I switched over from Noctua Industrials.


----------



## wholeeo

Well I think this fits here, question, why and how did my brother's clear coolant turn blue? New loop, no additives..lol



He used XSPC ECX clear after I told him to use DI and utopia.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> How quiet are the 2000rpm Vardars at max rpm?
> 
> I just saw jayztwocents video and im not sure if hes being honest or a typical youtube shill.
> 
> Curious because im ordering some of the F4-120-ER and the noise is one of the big reasons I switched over from Noctua Industrials.


Noise alone won't really be an improvement, but you can keep the fan slower while netting similar performance which would also keep noise lower.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Noise alone won't really be an improvement, but you can keep the fan slower while netting similar performance which would also keep noise lower.


Thanks. I plan on running them around 500-1300 on a PWM curve.


----------



## dbudd424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Well I think this fits here, question, why and how did my brother's clear coolant turn blue? New loop, no additives..lol
> 
> 
> 
> He used XSPC ECX clear after I told him to use DI and utopia.


Had a very similar looking blue come out of my rads when I cleaned them with distilled vinegar and distilled water the first time I got them. So maybe it was something left in the rads ?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> How quiet are the 2000rpm Vardars at max rpm?
> 
> I just saw jayztwocents video and im not sure if hes being honest or a typical youtube shill.
> 
> Curious because im ordering some of the F4-120-ER and the noise is one of the big reasons I switched over from Noctua Industrials.


The F3's are quiet. I setup the other 3 I have in my case and I'm sitting right next to it and there is no added noise that I can perceive. If I turn them all the way up then yes they make their presence known, but that's full speed for you. I would think the F4 ER's would be quieter at the low end with the extended PWM range, I can say for sure when I get some.

Honesty: I never gave the Industrial Noctuas a chance because for me "they're black!!11!1" didn't outweigh the added price, and omission of the accessories kit.









Edit: I had a really rough day at work so I'm going to play some Heroes of the Storm and have a drink







. Someone let me know if anyone has any tips on how to get this Vardar back together.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbudd424*
> 
> Had a very similar looking blue come out of my rads when I cleaned them with distilled vinegar and distilled water the first time I got them. So maybe it was something left in the rads ?


Perhaps, he being the know it all didn't flush his 2x480 and 1x240 before playing with them


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> The F3's are quiet. I setup the other 3 I have in my case and I'm sitting right next to it and there is no added noise that I can perceive. If I turn them all the way up then yes they make their presence known, but that's full speed for you. I would think the F4 ER's would be quieter at the low end with the extended PWM range, I can say for sure when I get some.
> 
> Honesty: I never gave the Industrial Noctuas a chance because for me "they're black!!11!1" didn't outweigh the added price, and omission of the accessories kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I had a really rough day at work so I'm going to play some Heroes of the Storm and have a drink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Someone let me know if anyone has any tips on how to get this Vardar back together.


Yeah it was in the end a poor decision. I liked Noctuas and when the black ones came out I jumped on it. Though I am overall dissatisfied with them.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I got some Vardar F3's that I plan to paint so I took one apart to see what I was getting into. I'm having trouble getting it back together. Is there a trick to getting the ball bearing and plastic washer to stay pushed down on the back so I can get the clip back on?


You need to put the pieces back in the correct order. Noticed that the plastic frame have a small diameter at some point. You need to place the plastic wahser there, then the spring and the ball bearing if I recall correctly. Then you will need to apply some force to snap the plastic ring on it to lock in place.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> How quiet are the 2000rpm Vardars at max rpm?
> 
> I just saw jayztwocents video and im not sure if hes being honest or a typical youtube shill.
> 
> Curious because im ordering some of the F4-120-ER and the noise is one of the big reasons I switched over from Noctua Industrials.
> 
> 
> 
> The F3's are quiet. I setup the other 3 I have in my case and I'm sitting right next to it and there is no added noise that I can perceive. If I turn them all the way up then yes they make their presence known, but that's full speed for you. I would think the F4 ER's would be quieter at the low end with the extended PWM range, I can say for sure when I get some.
> 
> Honesty: I never gave the Industrial Noctuas a chance because for me "they're black!!11!1" didn't outweigh the added price, and omission of the accessories kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I had a really rough day at work so I'm going to play some Heroes of the Storm and have a drink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Someone let me know if anyone has any tips on how to get this Vardar back together.
Click to expand...

Did you lose the c clip or is it just being difficult when you're sliding the hub back into the housing?









~Ceadder


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Did you lose the c clip or is it just being difficult when you're sliding the hub back into the housing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's being difficult, I'm having trouble keeping the ball bearing and plastic washer pushed down to get the clip back on.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> It's being difficult, I'm having trouble keeping the ball bearing and plastic washer pushed down to get the clip back on.


use a pair of toothpick for that. I found mounting the vardars more difficult that the GTs anyway. BTW the ball bearings and clip can be used on the other (vardars x GTs). As for the noise is highly subjective but I found the GTs noise signature much more pleasant that the Vardars.

I also order this from ebay/China:



3x8x4 mm ball bearings. Replaced the ones on the GT to see if noise went away without luck. But noticed that both Vardars and Gts use the same size ball bearings. In fact I need to assemble the other Vardar I have with these ball bearings.

let me known if you need help with the vardars. I can put some pics for you on the Old Copper build.


----------



## Domler

"Small" preview of an evga hadron air, that's gonna be under water. T-427. Stormtropper build. Repalced psu with Silverstone 600w gold little guy. Mounted to the front. Spaced out the front panel for more air. Hand cut and sanded acrylic. Hand cut acrylic rear psu port. Custom cut and mounted caselabs hdd cage with 2tb wd black. It's getting vii impact with a 4770k. 16gb ram. 250ssd. My titan x will find a home here in time. The funny part is my in laws computer died. The need one to check emails and other lite stuff. I had some spare parts around. Buying motherboard and ssd tomarrow. Gonna fire it up on air. Then when stable, (more money), it's going under water. Custom loop. 240 x 45 rad, painted white, directly on top. It just might be overkill! Hence why I'm posting it here. It's kinda like driving a Ferrari to get the mail.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> use a pair of toothpick for that. I found mounting the vardars more difficult that the GTs anyway. BTW the ball bearings and clip can be used on the other (vardars x GTs). As for the noise is highly subjective but I found the GTs noise signature much more pleasant that the Vardars.
> 
> I also order this from ebay/China:
> 
> 
> 
> 3x8x4 mm ball bearings. Replaced the ones on the GT to see if noise went away without luck. But noticed that both Vardars and Gts use the same size ball bearings. In fact I need to assemble the other Vardar I have with these ball bearings.
> 
> let me known if you need help with the vardars. I can put some pics for you on the Old Copper build.


Cool guess I just need to keep at it. Thanks for the info on the ball bearing, that's really helpful especially since his one is kind beat up now. +Rep

Edit: the pics would be very helpful!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Cool guess I just need to keep at it. Thanks for the info on the ball bearing, that's really helpful especially since his one is kind beat up now. +Rep
> 
> Edit: the pics would be very helpful!


take a look here, this might help too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHGTEXRUyfk

will put some pics on the old copper build log. Notice however that these ebay ball bearing seems bad....I have another set coming from a different vendor that I will test too. But this set is not very good making some noise. Ideally I would like to put my hands on 100 Nidec ball bearings but I am not aware of anywhere where we can get replacement parts for GTs.

edit - pics on the build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1566340/build-log-old-copper-a-nova-x2m-htpc-build/40#post_24290736


----------



## LunaP

Is it ok to stack 2x 0.5 thermal pads to make a 1.0 size pad? I'm asking because I"m re padding my GPU's and ran out, I ordered a sheet from PPC's but they sent me the wrong size.

If not I'll just use the stock that came with the card since its only for one side as I already finished 50% of the card.

Thanks if anyone catches/responds to this.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> take a look here, this might help too:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHGTEXRUyfk
> 
> will put some pics on the old copper build log. Notice however that these ebay ball bearing seems bad....I have another set coming from a different vendor that I will test too. But this set is not very good making some noise. Ideally I would like to put my hands on 100 Nidec ball bearings but I am not aware of anywhere where we can get replacement parts for GTs.
> 
> edit - pics on the build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1566340/build-log-old-copper-a-nova-x2m-htpc-build/40#post_24290736


Thanks, those are a huge help!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Installed some Led's tonight.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Is it ok to stack 2x 0.5 thermal pads to make a 1.0 size pad? I'm asking because I"m re padding my GPU's and ran out, I ordered a sheet from PPC's but they sent me the wrong size.
> 
> If not I'll just use the stock that came with the card since its only for one side as I already finished 50% of the card.
> 
> Thanks if anyone catches/responds to this.


I would use the stock.


----------



## TheRealHeavyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> It's being difficult, I'm having trouble keeping the ball bearing and plastic washer pushed down to get the clip back on.


Make sure the pin is bent back in the correct shape. Use some needle nose pliers to push down the top bearing and washer. They should stay slightly compressed. If they don't stay compressed, line up the ring pin and use the needle nose pliers to press down on the ring until it snaps. Be careful not to launch the ring as it will be gone forever.

You probably know this, but you should first put 2 washers on the fan axle, then 1 bearing, then slide the fan axle into the chassis, put in the spring and then the second bearing into the back of the fan chassis, followed by the last washer. It SHOULD allow you to compress it just a bit, but I found it didn't always work. The needle nose pliers helped out quite a bit.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed some Led's tonight.
> 
> TCO


Looking good TCO









Check out @Ductien2112 custom acrylic work


Always love me some nice custom acrylic work. His build HERE


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Is it ok to stack 2x 0.5 thermal pads to make a 1.0 size pad? I'm asking because I"m re padding my GPU's and ran out, I ordered a sheet from PPC's but they sent me the wrong size.
> 
> If not I'll just use the stock that came with the card since its only for one side as I already finished 50% of the card.
> 
> Thanks if anyone catches/responds to this.


I dunno whether that's good practice or not but I did stack two thermal pads before & found no difference in temp between stack & single pad. This was on VRMs.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I dunno whether that's good practice or not but I did stack two thermal pads before & found no difference in temp between stack & single pad. This was on VRMs.


whether its good practice or not, you tested and came to a fact based conclusion. +1 for a page in the KB!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking good TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out @Ductien2112 custom acrylic work
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always love me some nice custom acrylic work. His build HERE


+1 for posting this. incredibly impressive build! this guy's got traction now and he deserves it. This is true ingenuity at its finest, no holes barred grudge match with proto failures kind of success!


----------



## Ceadderman

A decent C clamp (the kind with padded jaws wouldn't hurt keeping the hub clamped into the housing either. It would certainly be helpful if you have a vice wide enough to hold a 120 horizontally after the hub is clamped into place.









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> In my experience, Duke is a great guy. Accounting is chimps.
> 
> I canceled a preorder on around 14 26$ fans. And they refunded me for 1 fan. After getting accounting over email 3 times they wouldnt give any response that didnt seem like a copy paste from a policy book. Called again and got duke again, fixed it instantly.
> 
> Although I will say overall im not pleased with PPCS. They always mess something up on my order. Like a previous order they sent the wrong radiator. And on another order they charged me for cable sleeving on some fans but never did it.


Up until this point, I can't say I've had a order be just flat out wrong. I'm really, really disappointed with how they've handled it thus far. Having to pay shipping twice total and once on a completely wrong item that they just COMPLETELY fubared is really, really borked.. I can't say I've had any instance in the past where a company didn't eat the cost of shipping on both orders considering they messed up so royally. It's just completely the wrong SKU. But, it was signed off. It was "Checked by" and employee, packaged and shipped. All marked correct when the numbers are just different. On top of that, they supposedly don't have stock of the item I ordered even though according to their site, I got the last one. So one of a few things happened:

A: They over sold an item and didn't realize it OR,
B: they knew and sent the wrong item OR,
C: Two people (myself being one of them) simultaneously ordered the exact same item at the exact same time and some how I got the short straw OR,
D: I ordered the last one, they sent the WRONG item and because I bought and paid for the item, it shows 0 in their inventory (esp. of they use a system like SAP which I have experience with). At which point,. the item I wanted is still sitting on a shelf and I actually just bought an item I didn't want so I can complete this stupid build and ate the shipping cost AGAIN.

To top it off, there was nothing offered beyond "we'll pay shipping back for the item we accidentally sent you which was wrong.." - SURE THANKS.

Either way, for as much as I'd love to use them, I think I won't be unless I have to from this point forward. It's a damn shame. I need rigid fittings and PETG shortly here.

/rant.

Had to get that off my chest. I sound bitter, ha.


----------



## Ceadderman

So they are at least paying the shipping back? Well that should at least result in store credit for when they ship the right part.

Mayne I am missing something?

~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So they are at least paying the shipping back? Well that should at least result in store credit for when they ship the right part.
> 
> Mayne I am missing something?
> 
> ~Ceadder


the way i read it:
he paid to ship the wrong part.
ppc pays to ship wrong part back.
he pays to have correct part shipped.
purely bad business etiquette. maybe post up on their fb page. bad publicity is bad for business. at least thats my attitude on their screw-up.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Up until this point, I can't say I've had a order be just flat out wrong. I'm really, really disappointed with how they've handled it thus far. Having to pay shipping twice total and once on a completely wrong item that they just COMPLETELY fubared is really, really borked.. I can't say I've had any instance in the past where a company didn't eat the cost of shipping on both orders considering they messed up so royally. It's just completely the wrong SKU. But, it was signed off. It was "Checked by" and employee, packaged and shipped. All marked correct when the numbers are just different. On top of that, they supposedly don't have stock of the item I ordered even though according to their site, I got the last one. So one of a few things happened:
> 
> A: They over sold an item and didn't realize it OR,
> B: they knew and sent the wrong item OR,
> C: Two people (myself being one of them) simultaneously ordered the exact same item at the exact same time and some how I got the short straw OR,
> D: I ordered the last one, they sent the WRONG item and because I bought and paid for the item, it shows 0 in their inventory (esp. of they use a system like SAP which I have experience with). At which point,. the item I wanted is still sitting on a shelf and I actually just bought an item I didn't want so I can complete this stupid build and ate the shipping cost AGAIN.
> 
> To top it off, there was nothing offered beyond "we'll pay shipping back for the item we accidentally sent you which was wrong.." - SURE THANKS.
> 
> Either way, for as much as I'd love to use them, I think I won't be unless I have to from this point forward. It's a damn shame. I need rigid fittings and PETG shortly here.
> 
> /rant.
> 
> Had to get that off my chest. I sound bitter, ha.


FrozenCPU needs to come back to us. Or we need to have some good alterrnative to PPCS. After the conversations in this thread its pretty obvious their performance is terrible. The only positive things Ive heard were about Duke.


----------



## Ceadderman

If he does that he's publicly calling them out and that's no Bueno and they'll take it down since they control what goes on their page.

I'm having a hard time simply because the information isn't linear throughout the back and forth.

Lemme see if I got this right...

1)Makes purchase through PPCs.
2)Shipment arrives.
3)Parts are there which includes wrong part.
4)Contacts PPCs and geta word that his part went to parts unknown and replacement is OoS but they will ship at his expense...

Do I have this right?

If it's me I ask them to at least split the difference. Show them the willingness to work with them even though you know you're right. I can see why they would charge again for the part since *somebody*(I've an idea whom) cannot tell their left from their right and all stops in between. Back when I made my first major purchase the person I'm thinking of shipped me a Supremacy instead of the Supreme HF which I got on sale. I could've simply kept quiet about it but I pay my own way and don't take advantage. They fixed the issue. As far as I know that person *still* works there.









Since then it's been a relatively painless experience.









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Well half the parts of what I ordered. There's a bragi kit that's a motherboard piece and mofset. Then there's another kit, which I purchased, that includes a cpu block and connecting terminal. They just sent me the two piece kit and charged me for the full kit. Then blamed bitspower. But, turns out, they just sent me the wrong kit period, end of story. Somehow, even though I ordered he last clear, full kit, they are OoS, and they offered that I buy the black version of what I originally ordered, they'll send a return label for the smaller kit I have on hand.

Either way, I paid shipping on the wrong part, they offered no refund fit my troubles. As a resolution, I'm getting the right kit in the wrong finish (they of course offered to notify me of arrival if I wanted to wait another 2-3 weeks) and I pay shipping of the right kit to myself again. See the issue? I don't mind changing to the acetal from acrylic so much. Even though I'm nearly positive they have what I ordered in the warehouse just hanging out. What I mind is kind of the, "sorry we messed up.. Here's a return label with the shipping paid so we can get what you paid shipping for back to us" not, "we messed up, here you original shipping cost back and a return label".

I won't call them out on Facebook, ha. End of the day it's just incredibly expensive shipping. I should have ordered from the source and probably will from here on out. I feel bad for Duke. Dude sounded defeated when he recited the company policy.


----------



## Domler

Frozen is taking phone orders till the website is back up.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Frozen is taking phone orders till the website is back up.


Question is, with knowledge that friga is still in charge, are people willing to trust the company after what happened.


----------



## funfordcobra

I've used them before but will not anymore after what I saw. Iorny is that I used them to avoid what they have become. I understand things happen, but it proves how small and badly run the company really is. I just see a sinking ship with 1-2 people desperately dumping water overboard with 1 gallon buckets trying to stay afloat. Who would climb aboard in their right mind?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I've used them before but will not anymore after what I saw. Iorny is that I used them to avoid what they have become. I understand things happen, but it proves how small and badly run the company really is. I just see a sinking ship with 1-2 people desperately dumping water overboard with 1 gallon buckets trying to stay afloat. Who would climb aboard in their right mind?


Apparently all it takes is one slightly rough experience with PPCs to make the FCPU sinking ship look good...

Lol we've gone from chasing the PPCs shipping vs FCPU shipping circle to this now.














Take it to the rant forums please.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Question is, with knowledge that friga is still in charge, are people willing to trust the company after what happened.


What did happen anyways? I never got the information on that. Just suddenly FrozenCPU is down.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> What did happen anyways? I never got the information on that. Just suddenly FrozenCPU is down.


NO! Don't do this!!!! Please no more about FCPU.... the pain is still there in my heart.... Just go.... Start something else.... somewhere else... . Please.....

TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> NO! Don't do this!!!! Please no more about FCPU.... the pain is still there in my heart.... Just go.... Start something else.... somewhere else... . Please.....
> 
> TCO


i recommend a tub of icecream and some bad scotch. Then tell me what happened, its killin me to know.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> i recommend a tub of icecream and some bad scotch. Then tell me what happened, its killin me to know.


I'll PM you


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I'll PM you


Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> i recommend a tub of icecream and some bad scotch. Then tell me what happened, its killin me to know.


I appreciate the Icecream and Scotch.









TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I appreciate the Icecream and Scotch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


It always does the trick my friend.


----------



## MadHatter5045

I got the Vardar back together. I damaged one of the ball bearings in the process so now there is noise (kind of a grinding noise). Those clips are awful, why didn't they go with standard e-clips?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I got some Vardar F3's that I plan to paint so I took one apart to see what I was getting into. I'm having trouble getting it back together. Is there a trick to getting the ball bearing and plastic washer to stay pushed down on the back so I can get the clip back on?


I ordered replacement c-clips from McMaster Carr and they worked perfectly. Putting the fans back together was an easy rather than infuriating process with the new c-clips. I did 15 of the FF5 Vardars. Here's the specific part:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#98541a111/=yh7g51
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Too be "EXTRA" Precautious lol. But it's only $10 more for the Pro kit, so why not just get part 1 included. This is of course ordering from PPCS, as they don't sell them separately like the Mayhems website does. I just don't want to pay the shipping cost for Europe to the US. But I also need the part 2, so I just ordered the whole kit. Also the fact that ill be adding my 4 month old Pastel to new pastel coolant to make more liters. Better be safe than sorry


My Part1 bottle only came with 175ml, not 250ml







*is there Anywhere in the US that sells Mayhem's Blitz Part1 alone?*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbudd424*
> 
> Had a very similar looking blue come out of my rads when I cleaned them with distilled vinegar and distilled water the first time I got them. So maybe it was something left in the rads ?


Part1 came out blueish like diluted Listerine from My Coolgate G2s


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I ordered replacement c-clips from McMaster Carr and they worked perfectly. Putting the fans back together was an easy rather than infuriating process with the new c-clips. I did 15 of the FF5 Vardars. Here's the specific part:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#98541a111/=yh7g51


+Rep! Thanks, that's a lot better price than what I gave for these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVLIBIE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00


----------



## aerial

Worked on some more details, final version of my TJ07 build (although better not use term final when it comes to water cooling







).

entire album here: https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/SilverstoneTJ07Inverted



















pump: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-olwb-G1U0rI/Vcyggdr0MzI/AAAAAAAACdE/3QYx9d6ah68/s1200-Ic42/kbtj07_23.jpg


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Worked on some more details, final version of my TJ07 build (although better not use term final when it comes to water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> entire album here: https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/SilverstoneTJ07Inverted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pump: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-olwb-G1U0rI/Vcyggdr0MzI/AAAAAAAACdE/3QYx9d6ah68/s1200-Ic42/kbtj07_23.jpg


That is ridiculously clean. Great work.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> That is ridiculously clean. Great work.


Please use spoilers if you are going to quote multiple pictures. It takes forever to load and scroll through on mobile page.


----------



## aerial

Btw. pics are compressed so shouldn't be hard on mobile internet.
And thanks.


----------



## deadwidesmile

That's really, really clean. I kind of like the"goofy" motherboard placement cases.

Must, not, cave, to, temptation!


----------



## USMC Modder

So I got an email about this today. Looks like EK is getting into the AIO race as well. Theirs' will be an upgradeable system though.

Source


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> That's really, really clean. I kind of like the"goofy" motherboard placement cases.
> 
> Must, not, cave, to, temptation!


Of course you do. It's the ability to actually see the GPU setup instead of seeing PCB staring back at you. I don't even know why manufacturers go out of their way to apply decals to the housings. Most systems they won't even be visible. They should simply include the decals to be applied by the builder.









You're a tad late to the party USMC. But thank you for the latest pic. We hadn't seen that one yet.









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

I went with an acrylic block on my foremost TX in the X9 so I could see it a bit more. Tad more color


----------



## catbuster

@aerial very clean, love it


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Of course you do. It's the ability to actually see the GPU setup instead of seeing PCB staring back at you. I don't even know why manufacturers go out of their way to apply decals to the housings. Most systems they won't even be visible. They should simply include the decals to be applied by the builder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're a tad late to the party USMC. But thank you for the latest pic. We hadn't seen that one yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry, I must of missed the posts about it.


----------



## Ceadderman

In this thread that's entirely possible. Go away for a day and B00M! goes the dynamite. 3 pages of fresh commentary.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Btw. pics are compressed so shouldn't be hard on mobile internet.
> And thanks.


He is talking to the quoter,not you. If you are _posting_ pics then go mad and post what you like......just no repeats yeah?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I got some Vardar F3's that I plan to paint so I took one apart to see what I was getting into. I'm having trouble getting it back together. Is there a trick to getting the ball bearing and plastic washer to stay pushed down on the back so I can get the clip back on?
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered replacement c-clips from McMaster Carr and they worked perfectly. Putting the fans back together was an easy rather than infuriating process with the new c-clips. I did 15 of the FF5 Vardars. Here's the specific part:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#98541a111/=yh7g51
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Too be "EXTRA" Precautious lol. But it's only $10 more for the Pro kit, so why not just get part 1 included. This is of course ordering from PPCS, as they don't sell them separately like the Mayhems website does. I just don't want to pay the shipping cost for Europe to the US. But I also need the part 2, so I just ordered the whole kit. Also the fact that ill be adding my 4 month old Pastel to new pastel coolant to make more liters. Better be safe than sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My Part1 bottle only came with 175ml, not 250ml
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *is there Anywhere in the US that sells Mayhem's Blitz Part1 alone?*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dbudd424*
> 
> Had a very similar looking blue come out of my rads when I cleaned them with distilled vinegar and distilled water the first time I got them. So maybe it was something left in the rads ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Part1 came out blueish like diluted Listerine from My Coolgate G2s
Click to expand...

I think my Part 1 bottle had a little missing as well, going by the cup measurements I think It was about 10-15ml less, but you had a lot less. Where did you buy from?

Maybe try PMing @Mayhem or asking in the Mayhems club page.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I think my Part 1 bottle had a little missing as well, going by the cup measurements I think It was about 10-15ml less, but you had a lot less. Where did you buy from?
> 
> *Maybe try PMing @Mayhem or asking in the Mayhems club page.*


He's gone from the Forums (AFAIK) , You might have to hope over to the board index of His.

TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Please use spoilers if you are going to quote multiple pictures. It takes forever to load and scroll through on mobile page.


Damn my apologies. I could have sworn I just cut them out.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Damn my apologies. I could have sworn I just cut them out.


It's all good, my thumb is just gettin tired


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I think my Part 1 bottle had a little missing as well, going by the cup measurements I think It was about 10-15ml less, but you had a lot less. Where did you buy from?
> 
> Maybe try PMing @Mayhem or asking in the Mayhems club page.


Bought from PPCs. Sent them an email - we'll see


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> My Part1 bottle only came with 175ml, not 250ml
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *is there Anywhere in the US that sells Mayhem's Blitz Part1 alone?*


Really?? I'm actually not sure if I was shorted or not. I add the water to my measuring cup (a 4 liter one), then just add part 1. It's possible I was shorted too, but I didn't have any problems. I still added 750mm of water. Hmmm... Maybe mayhems is not really including 250, but is labeling it as 250? Lawsuit? No, I'm kidding lol.


----------



## MadHatter5045

pfffttt just pour the part 1 straight in your radiator and undiluted and call it a day.









Don't actually do this


----------



## emsj86

What were the pro builders using before blitz just hot distilled flush or vinegar


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> pfffttt just pour the part 1 straight in your radiator and undiluted and call it a day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't actually do this


Let me try this...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What were the pro builders using before blitz just hot distilled flush or vinegar


I believe so. But my question is what they used to neutralize it. Vinegar still has a low pH, so wouldn't you need to neutralize the rads?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What were the pro builders using before blitz *just hot distilled flush or vinegar*


I would Imagine.









TCO


----------



## MadHatter5045

I think everyone operated on different sets of beliefs on what to do back then.


----------



## emsj86

I know most don't want it to end but I need summer to end quick. Can't find anytime to build the new pc. Just work work and more work.


----------



## DogIsGod

My first one! EKWB Acetyl - Nickel block, EK-XRES 140, Alphacool NexXxoS UT 60 280mm radiator, Fractal Design Venturi HP - 14's, Koolance fittings, and Primochill LRT tubing cooling a 980Ti.

I'll be adding the CPU a bit later on, as well as a triple radiator in the top, and maybe a single in the bottom.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I know most don't want it to end but I need summer to end quick. Can't find anytime to build the new pc. Just work work and more work.


I want the cooler weather to come back. Its 27-28C in my place and it's both expensive and uncomfortable.


----------



## erso44

stickyourfingerinit# bahaha









summertimemadness#


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I want the cooler weather to come back. Its 27-28C in my place and it's both expensive and uncomfortable.


Same here Bro! Temps have been Over 100F Every Day

TCO


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Same here Bro! Temps have been Over 100F Every Day
> 
> TCO


Up here in Seattle we've been in the mid 80's to mid 90's almost everyday since late May. Ridiculous - lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

And the cables for "Grey Matter" are here!!!! Get ready folks for final pictures (lot's of it).


----------



## deadwidesmile

They need a like function on this site...


----------



## emsj86

Killer job gab


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> They need a like function on this site...












TCO


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> And the cables for "Grey Matter" are here!!!! Get ready folks for final pictures (lot's of it).
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That turned out superb!


----------



## OGBeandip

You guys are lucky. 110+ degrees here during the summer. Up to 120 sometimes.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> And the cables for "Grey Matter" are here!!!! Get ready folks for final pictures (lot's of it).


That things kickass, man.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Thks guys. Hope you guys on mobile don't hate me but here we go...literally tons of pics at the sunset:


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks guys. Hope you guys on mobile don't hate me but here we go...literally tons of pics at the sunset:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That gray fluid is legit!


----------



## Reaper28

It took me a lot longer to build then it should have due to certain problems, but for my first attempt at watercooling I think it came out good. I can't wait to do some overclocking!


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey all. I just have a quick question. In my build, I'm running this setup:

RX480 - SP120 QE Push Pull (8 fans)
RX240 - SP120 QE Push Pull (4 fans)

RX360 - EK Vardar 120ER Push (3 fans)
560GTS - EK Vardar 140ER push (4 fans)

What kind of performance increase, such as water temps and hardware temps, would I see if I switch the SP120's on the RX240 to push pull with the EK Vardars 120ER's?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> It took me a lot longer to build then it should have due to certain problems, but for my first attempt at watercooling I think it came out good. I can't wait to do some overclocking!


How did you light your blocks?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> How did you light your blocks?


All the LED's are from Dazmode, 3mm of course. Total of 9 in the system


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks guys. Hope you guys on mobile don't hate me but here we go...literally tons of pics at the sunset:


Where did you get those cables and the cable combs?

I bought a set of cablemodz cables and was fairly disappointed in how thin the sleeving was.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey all. I just have a quick question. In my build, I'm running this setup:
> 
> RX480 - SP120 QE Push Pull (8 fans)
> RX240 - SP120 QE Push Pull (4 fans)
> 
> RX360 - EK Vardar 120ER Push (3 fans)
> 560GTS - EK Vardar 140ER push (4 fans)
> 
> What kind of performance increase, such as water temps and hardware temps, would I see if I switch the SP120's on the RX240 to push pull with the EK Vardars 120ER's?


Not enough to justify the price imo.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Where did you get those cables and the cable combs?
> 
> I bought a set of cablemodz cables and was fairly disappointed in how thin the sleeving was.


http://www.ensourced.net/

Joey makes very good work. That was the only part of the build I did not do it myself, and the psu sticker thks to guitarhero. Reservoir, fans, rads and case painting, leds stripes and extrusion, diffuser, fan hub sticker, drills and case cuts, and fluid color all done in house.

And since it was sunset to follow the night shots with just the leds/diffuser lights on:










Grey Matter is done and ready to take to work


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey all. I just have a quick question. In my build, I'm running this setup:
> 
> RX480 - SP120 QE Push Pull (8 fans)
> RX240 - SP120 QE Push Pull (4 fans)
> 
> RX360 - EK Vardar 120ER Push (3 fans)
> 560GTS - EK Vardar 140ER push (4 fans)
> 
> What kind of performance increase, such as water temps and hardware temps, would I see if I switch the SP120's on the RX240 to push pull with the EK Vardars 120ER's?


Same RPM?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not enough to justify the price imo.


What kind of temps would you think it would drop if I switch from the SP120 to Vardars? 4 more Vardars would run my around $80 + shipping.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Same RPM?


Yes. Depending on water temps, around 800-1000 RPM. I'm looking for a near silent build. The SP's are pretty quiet at 800


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.ensourced.net/
> 
> Joey makes very good work. That was the only part of the build I did not do it myself, and the psu sticker thks to guitarhero. Reservoir, fans, rads and case painting, leds stripes and extrusion, diffuser, fan hub sticker, drills and case cuts, and fluid color all done in house.


Well thats certainly more expensive than I was expecting. I think Im still going to pull the trigger though.


----------



## bmegoist

This is my 900d build just finished it!
5820k - X99 Deluxe
980Ti Classy

Watercooling
2 x XSPC V3 480
2 x XSPC 240
XSPC Photon Res w\ 2 x D5 Vario
EK Supremacy Block
EK Mosfet Block
EK 780 Classy block for the 980ti classy

Thinking about switching out bottom SP120 Blue LED fans for SP120 non LED.

20 x SP/AF fans running silent.


----------



## Archea47

Gabriel,

I love the Grey Matter build! The parallel tubes look great and the color has really grown on me and fits the theme perfectly.

My only note is: the pictures of the top of the reservoir gross me out







It looks like a jug of alien bile sloshing around! Maybe it doesn't look like that in person, or maybe that's the desired effect







This is a joke not a jab!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What kind of temps would you think it would drop if I switch from the SP120 to Vardars? 4 more Vardars would run my around $80 + shipping.
> Yes. Depending on water temps, around 800-1000 RPM. I'm looking for a near silent build. The SP's are pretty quiet at 800


If you are sticking to 800-1000 RPM, then just stay with your fans. Why are you looking to spend more money anyway? You won't get any temp difference at those fan speeds no matter how many times you ask the question


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmegoist*
> 
> This is my 900d build just finished it!
> 5820k - X99 Deluxe
> 980Ti Classy
> 
> Watercooling
> 2 x XSPC V3 480
> 2 x XSPC 240
> XSPC Photon Res w\ 2 x D5 Vario
> EK Supremacy Block
> EK Mosfet Block
> EK 780 Classy block for the 980ti classy
> 
> Thinking about switching out bottom SP120 Blue LED fans for SP120 non LED.
> 
> 20 x SP/AF fans running silent.


The LED fans in bottom look great.

What coolant are you using and how are you illuminating those tubes?

That is the coolest thing I have seen in awhile.


----------



## bmegoist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> The LED fans in bottom look great.
> 
> What coolant are you using and how are you illuminating those tubes?
> 
> That is the coolest thing I have seen in awhile.


Thanks for the feedback!

I'm using Mayhem XT-1 UV Blue with UV Blue tubing. Behind the upper 480 rad is a UV Cold cathode as well as under the GPU near the midplate. I have more LED's in the CPU block and the Res but the dark/UV blue looks better to me.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmegoist*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback!
> 
> I'm using Mayhem XT-1 UV Blue with UV Blue tubing. Behind the upper 480 rad is a UV Cold cathode as well as under the GPU near the midplate. I have more LED's in the CPU block and the Res but the dark/UV blue looks better to me.


Well nice job. I really like the effect it gave the tube.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you are sticking to 800-1000 RPM, then just stay with your fans. Why are you looking to spend more money anyway? You won't get any temp difference at those fan speeds no matter how many times you ask the question


Have I asked that a lot? Sorry. This is my dream build, and I'm just trying to get it the best I can. It's just that I'm trying to get better temps that my 750D build, and something in that build is holding it back. People keep saying it's the SP120's, but I see people all the time with just those fans and they perform superior to my setup with less rpm and less rads (close to same hardware).

I appreciate all the help you've given me. And sorry if it gets irritating asking all the questions over and over again.


----------



## VSG

Oh don't get me wrong, I am not irritated at all. I am just trying to understand why you are even considering this move when all logic says it is not going to be a tangible performance change. Aesthetics or something similar? Sure, there's no sense there anyway lol.

Finish the SMA8 build first and see how your temps are before making any decisions that are based off nothing at the moment.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh don't get me wrong, I am not irritated at all. I am just trying to understand why you are even considering this move when all logic says it is not going to be a tangible performance change. Aesthetics or something similar? Sure, there's no sense there anyway lol.
> 
> Finish the SMA8 build first and see how your temps are before making any decisions that are based off nothing at the moment.


I guess it's because I hear how well the Vardars perform to all other fans. My case will be here next week most likely, so I see how temps are. But again, thanks for all your help.


----------



## bmegoist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey all. I just have a quick question. In my build, I'm running this setup:
> 
> RX480 - SP120 QE Push Pull (8 fans)
> RX240 - SP120 QE Push Pull (4 fans)
> 
> RX360 - EK Vardar 120ER Push (3 fans)
> 560GTS - EK Vardar 140ER push (4 fans)
> 
> What kind of performance increase, such as water temps and hardware temps, would I see if I switch the SP120's on the RX240 to push pull with the EK Vardars 120ER's?


I'll be honest with you, I've done RX480 with SP120 PE and QE, I've thrown some Vadar's that a friend just got and even some noctua's just to see the difference, noise wise yeah they all were very similar at low speeds except the PE SP120 obviously but cooling performance little to no difference. I'm running Push/Pull and just Pull on my RX240 what I have noticed is the RX Rads do great with lower speed fans when my PE's ramp up little to no difference in temps. The biggest differences I've had is changing TIM and re-seating my blocks and changing the direction of intake and exhaust on my Rads.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I guess it's because I hear how well the Vardars perform to all other fans. My case will be here next week most likely, so I see how temps are. But again, thanks for all your help.


At higher speeds, yes. But at 800-1000 RPM and with the amount of rad space you have, I would just go with fans that I like looking at and can afford.


----------



## emsj86

@IT DIVA your that girl! Personally had to say thank you. Jigsaw blade cut like butter. Now the build is on it's way. Just need to mount angle iron and clean up the cuts.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What kind of temps would you think it would drop if I switch from the SP120 to Vardars? 4 more Vardars would run my around $80 + shipping.
> Yes. Depending on water temps, around 800-1000 RPM. I'm looking for a near silent build. The SP's are pretty quiet at 800


Yeah at that RPM stick with what you got. Honestly from absorbing all the info I could about fans/stats/etc it all came down to visual preference for me.

Most of the time when picking fans its the max RPM that makes the biggest cooling difference. Say if you have 5 different brands of fans spinning at 2200rpm. The temperature difference will be minimal. Probably about 3 degrees tops. Now say you compare any of those 2200rpm fans to a 1500rpm fans then yes you might see a 5 degree difference but you are also sacrificing noise there.

Look at martins round up and take each video for fans you like and pause them at x rpm. THen look at the air pressure/flow/noise levels. THey will be very similar. What makes the biggest difference is the "tone" of the noise made by the fans. For example the gentle typhoons have a very pleasing air tone/sound to them compared to SP120's "slappy" air sound.

In the end simply decide what RPM you want to run your fans at max (because of personal noise tolerance ), then just pick whatever looks best/fits your budget. Fan selection is way overthought.


----------



## emsj86

I m no expert jt agree with you. Just like push pull just don't feel it makes that big difference. Now granted different fans have different sounds and perform slightly slightly better. But I believe changing fans for the goal of better temp gains for same rpm just won't give you any gains that our more than a degree or so. So other than the sound it's more looks to me. Now I wish I hadn't gone with the fans I have just because everyone has them. But mainly because the eloops our just so damn sexy. I like the Pravum two tones as well. It's more your waiting on your case and just over thinking it too much because you want everything perfect. Your temps will be better bc your rad space has increased by almost double. Maybe it's just me but I'm sure others think the same. But I ll take losing a few degrees or even 5 for looks. Hence why I'm painting my motherboard heatsinks. Temp will rise but it'll look better


----------



## SteezyTN

Can anyone give me some advice? My second pump can today. Both pumps are PWM and the power comes via molex. One pump is an XSPC D5 PWM and the other is a Swiftech D5 PWM (PPCS ran out of stock of the XSPC version so they gave me the Swiftech instead)

Anyways, I went to put the Bitspower D5 mod kit on the second pump. I took pictures to make sure I match the wires up before I took the connectors off. Well I noticed that the wires don't match up with my XSPC D5 PWM pump.

Here is the XSPC D5 PWM wires



And here is the Swiftech D5 PWM wires



Both connectors are facing the same way, but the wires are on complete opposite sides. The XSPC wires are on the right, and the Swiftech wires are on the left.

Do you think maybe PPCS accidentally put the wires back in wrong when they sleeved my cables? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone give me some advice? My second pump can today. Both pumps are PWM and the power comes via molex. One pump is an XSPC D5 PWM and the other is a Swiftech D5 PWM (PPCS ran out of stock of the XSPC version so they gave me the Swiftech instead)
> 
> Anyways, I went to put the Bitspower D5 mod kit on the second pump. I took pictures to make sure I match the wires up before I took the connectors off. Well I noticed that the wires don't match up with my XSPC D5 PWM pump.
> 
> Here is the XSPC D5 PWM wires
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the Swiftech D5 PWM wires
> 
> 
> 
> Both connectors are facing the same way, but the wires are on complete opposite sides. The XSPC wires are on the right, and the Swiftech wires are on the left.
> 
> Do you think maybe PPCS accidentally put the wires back in wrong when they sleeved my cables? Any help would be appreciated.


yes they did. Swiftech wires are in the wrong place. Jesus what a mess. No one willing to open a WC shop in US by any chance? I am tired of this monopoly....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone give me some advice? My second pump can today. Both pumps are PWM and the power comes via molex. One pump is an XSPC D5 PWM and the other is a Swiftech D5 PWM (PPCS ran out of stock of the XSPC version so they gave me the Swiftech instead)
> 
> Anyways, I went to put the Bitspower D5 mod kit on the second pump. I took pictures to make sure I match the wires up before I took the connectors off. Well I noticed that the wires don't match up with my XSPC D5 PWM pump.
> 
> Here is the XSPC D5 PWM wires
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the Swiftech D5 PWM wires
> 
> 
> 
> Both connectors are facing the same way, but the wires are on complete opposite sides. The XSPC wires are on the right, and the Swiftech wires are on the left.
> 
> Do you think maybe PPCS accidentally put the wires back in wrong when they sleeved my cables? Any help would be appreciated.


The XSPC one is correct.

The new one is backwards . . .

Green is the PWM wire and goes to pin 4

Blue is the tach signal and goes to pin 3

This is a close up of the mod to run the PWM D5 with an Aquaero, so pay no attention to the components, (unless you need to run your D5's with an Aquaero) but the placement of the blue and green wires is correct:


----------



## VSG

Wow I am glad you caught this before turning it on. Do let them know, this could have been much worse.


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh just switch them up. But I would always recommend thoroughly inspecting anything you purchase on the net. Shipped from any vendor. Having sleeved cables quite a bit I can't tell you how many times I have mispinned a connector. I always catch it but am like
















~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yes they did. Swiftech wires are in the wrong place. Jesus what a mess. No one willing to open a WC shop in US by any chance? I am tired of this monopoly....


Stay tuned









I'm considering a few options at the moment to go into a venture such as this.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yes they did. Swiftech wires are in the wrong place. Jesus what a mess. No one willing to open a WC shop in US by any chance? I am tired of this monopoly....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The XSPC one is correct.
> 
> The new one is backwards . . .
> 
> Green is the PWM wire and goes to pin 4
> 
> Blue is the tach signal and goes to pin 3
> 
> This is a close up of the mod to run the PWM D5 with an Aquaero, so pay no attention to the components, (unless you need to run your D5's with an Aquaero) but the placement of the blue and green wires is correct:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wow I am glad you caught this before turning it on. Do let them know, this could have been much worse.


I'm not so techy when it comes to that stuff, so I took a picture before I pulled the connectors off. Once I put them back on by the picture I took, I realized it was complete opposite from my XSPC one. Thanks a lot you three for helping me out. This forum is a life saver lol


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Stay tuned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering a few options at the moment to go into a venture such as this.


Way to take all the credit!


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Way to take all the credit!


Pssh, _we're_ considering some current ventures. Just have to line up some time to look around at some locations and exactly what would be involved state side with regulation/zoning


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Pssh, _we're_ considering some current ventures. Just have to line up some time to look around at some locations and exactly what would be involved state side with regulation/zoning


Much better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yes they did. Swiftech wires are in the wrong place. Jesus what a mess. No one willing to open a WC shop in US by any chance? I am tired of this monopoly....
> 
> 
> 
> Stay tuned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering a few options at the moment to go into a venture such as this.
Click to expand...

Same. But it takes money or backing to get where I need to be. I just know that we need something on this side of the country to get the shipping costs down. $30 shipping isn't too bad but if I want my upcoming order here faster it goes up to $70+ FedEx. I won't have USPS even carry my gear. Not that it matters because that quote is ridiculously expensive and it would affect my budget to limit cart total. Shoot, I could get a 240gb SSD for the price that was quoted for First Class shipping.









~Ceadder


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Same. But it takes money or backing to get where I need to be. I just know that we need something on this side of the country to get the shipping costs down. $30 shipping isn't too bad but if I want my upcoming order here faster it goes up to $70+ FedEx. I won't have USPS even carry my gear. Not that it matters because that quote is ridiculously expensive and it would affect my budget to limit cart total. Shoot, I could get a 240gb SSD for the price that was quoted for First Class shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Exactly. I know PPC's is on the East coast and FCPU is also, if I'm not mistaken? I'd love to open a warehouse on the West coast and give at least SOME options beyond our current monopoly. Half the time I've ordered directly from EK due to horror stories and the recent fubar's are stacking up. This is by no means a witch hunt statement, nor saying I wouldn't have made the same mistake given the volume. We as consumers just need more options and it's something I'm researching... for, you know, science









@OGBeandip and I think we could make something happen in the next couple of years for sure. I'm looking to try and start a bit sooner but need to get my ducks far more in a row. Initial start up costs are the killer at the moment but, not impossible.


----------



## VSG

@AT-Pascal has been saying something about a new shop and news regarding this coming out in a few hours.


----------



## OGBeandip

@deadwidesmile

Within a couple years I will easily be able to be a part of it. But I cant dedicate fully for about 4 years when my prior obligations are done.


----------



## dbudd424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> Wait 24 hours I think you will hear news of an interesting alternative....
> 
> (p.s not us)


hes been teasing all night in a few different threads about it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hope it's good. I think a lot of us are in the same boat and that boat takes on alot of water in shipping expenses. I don't mind paying shipping so long as the expense is reasonable. To me reasonable means shipping should be lower on 2 day shipping due to more cargo means more profit for the carrier. It should not be that way. Carriers should want to fill up the cargo bay to conserve fuel. Less money spent on fuel means a savings in their monthly operating costs. More customers means more money in the long term. And in today's economy every bit helps a business grow. Diesel fuel ain't cheaper when you consider how many trucks these businesses operate.









And yes I know weight = fuel. But customers = profit.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Keep us posted here. I may place an order with him if his prices are competitive.


----------



## LunaP

hey curious if anyone here still has their AQ6, as I'm trying to get my resbay pump to work with it, and it starts up but always @ max speed, and no matter what I set for power output it stays @ max, I tried low bus and high bus, its a 4 pin cable. Fan ports don't do much of anything either, Also tried both power and PWM.

Manual isn't helping


----------



## Jflisk

Aqua Tuning is coming to the US - Sign me up


----------



## dbudd424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Aqua Tuning is coming to the US - Sign me up


In the quote they state its not them.

So its a guessing game who it is.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbudd424*
> 
> In the quote they state its not them.
> 
> So its a guessing game who it is.


Kind of glad it isnt them, I always found Aquatuning to have a pretty small inventory.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well competing with EK, BP and Swiftech cannot be easy. Not to mention any of the other large catalog manufacturers I am forgetting. There is a reason DangerDen cashed in their chips.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Kind of glad it isnt them, I always found Aquatuning to have a pretty small inventory.


You should probably go check again they have parts you cant find anywhere else .


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You should probably go check again they have parts you cant find anywhere else .


Ill agree with that, I have seen a lot of more unique and uncommon parts on Aquatuning, and I will give them credit for that. But I dont see them carrying a lot of the more mainstream WC components and brands.

Of course there are exceptions. But their inventory wasnt nearly as diverse as PPCS or FCPU. at least not on the USA site.


----------



## AT-Pascal

Regarding our inventory we we do have quite some range about 1.4 million lines







so it is having a good look through. We do not carry a few brands due politics but hey that's a different story.

More importantly at 12 noon EST the press release will go live informing you of something you have all been waiting for. Lets just say if you could take the good apples from the bad bunch and build something new and amazing... Well its ready and questions will be answered.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> Regarding our inventory we we do have quite some range about 1.4 million lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it is having a good look through. We do not carry a few brands due politics but hey that's a different story.
> 
> More importantly at 12 noon EST the press release will go live informing you of something you have all been waiting for. Lets just say if you could take the good apples from the bad bunch and build something new and amazing... Well its ready and questions will be answered.


DOO IT.

NOW!


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> Regarding our inventory we we do have quite some range about 1.4 million lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it is having a good look through. We do not carry a few brands due politics but hey that's a different story.
> 
> More importantly at 12 noon EST the press release will go live informing you of something you have all been waiting for. Lets just say if you could take the good apples from the bad bunch and build something new and amazing... Well its ready and questions will be answered.


----------



## sdmf74

So Im guessing someone with $$$ bought out Frozen and plans on runnin it right??


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> So Im guessing someone with $$$ bought out Frozen and plans on runnin it right??


No frozen is still there and functioning apparently they have not contacted us or Alphacool since the "event" however i believe some of the old staff could have been up to something


----------



## Alder

Hey guys I am new to this thread, was mostly in the Silverstone Raven thread before but now I have a problem that you might be able to help me with!

I am building this small factor "steam box" and I am stuck. Its a mess and I am not sure if I should go on or not. I think over the last year I spent way too much money and time on the project. It is my first watercooling project ever (in retrospect I might would choose an easier project for the first time).

I finally have all the parts and everything fits, except the tubeing. First I had a 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubeing which is very thick and doesn't bend well but I am not able to close the case with it. So I bought a softer one a 3/8 ID 1/2 OD which bends better but also buckles way too easy so that no waterflow exists.

Does anyone of you have experience with the case its a Silverstone ML07? What tubeing did you used? What can I do to close the case and still be able to open it again with the whole loop intact?

Thank you soo much guys for the help I am really lost!
Alder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> No frozen is still there and functioning apparently they have not contacted us or Alphacool since the "event" however i believe some of the old staff could have been up to something


I guess this is probably Bucky and some of the others then? Not too long to go now.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alder*
> 
> I finally have all the parts and everything fits, except the tubeing. First I had a 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubeing which is very thick and doesn't bend well but I am not able to close the case with it. So I bought a softer one a 3/8 ID 1/2 OD which bends better but also buckles way too easy so that no waterflow exists.
> 
> Does anyone of you have experience with the case its a Silverstone ML07? What tubeing did you used? What can I do to close the case and still be able to open it again with the whole loop intact?


The clear promo chill anti kink coils have served me well with 3/8 x 1/2" soft tube, as long as you don't mind the look (see sig rig Icarus Wings)


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> Regarding our inventory we we do have quite some range about 1.4 million lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it is having a good look through. We do not carry a few brands due politics but hey that's a different story.
> 
> More importantly at 12 noon EST the press release will go live informing you of something you have all been waiting for. Lets just say if you could take the good apples from the bad bunch and build something new and amazing... Well its ready and questions will be answered.


Hey I appreciate the response. Didnt realize there was some bad politics. Expect an order from me, youve got my respect.

And i didnt mean any offense by what I said.


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Hey I appreciate the response. Didnt realize there was some bad politics. Expect an order from me, youve got my respect.
> 
> And i didnt mean any offense by what I said.


Thank you and no offence taken


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well competing with EK, BP and Swiftech cannot be easy. Not to mention any of the other large catalog manufacturers I am forgetting. There is a reason DangerDen cashed in their chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


some day I'm going to do a new age/retro build with modular psu, modern case, and near turn of the century hardware: P4 3.0c and danger den blocks I have laying around, I have a Maze 2. Maze 3, TDX, and a maze chipset block. Need a radeon 9800 AIO and danger den block for it!!!! make it an UT/Q3/CS box.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> Regarding our inventory we we do have quite some range about 1.4 million lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it is having a good look through. We do not carry a few brands due politics but hey that's a different story.
> 
> More importantly at 12 noon EST the press release will go live informing you of something you have all been waiting for. Lets just say if you could take the good apples from the bad bunch and build something new and amazing... Well its ready and questions will be answered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey I appreciate the response. *Didnt realize there was some bad politics.* Expect an order from me, youve got my respect.
> 
> And i didnt mean any offense by what I said.
Click to expand...

Welcome to Watercooling........Drama central all year round.....


----------



## amij

*Work in progress:*

First custom loop in the Fractal Design Define S. Just need to dry test the core components and then I'll try to fit it all in this weekend.

Intented route:

Pump/res --> CPU --> Rad --> pump/res

Core components:

Intel Core i5 4690K
Asus Sabertooth Mark 1
G.Skill 16GB (4X4GB) DDR3 1600mhz Ripjaws Z
Samsung 850 PRO 256GB SSD
Seasonic Platinum XP3 760W + CableMod Black/Green Cable Kit
Fractal Design Define S

Watercooling gear:

EK Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
EK PE 240
EK Vardar 1450 RPM x 2
EK X-RES D5 100 + additional EK X3 RES 250
Primochill Advanced LRT 3/8 x 5/8 Clear tubing
Bitspower compression fittings - Silver Shining + Matte Black
EK Ekoolant EVO Clear Premix x 2


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Cables Came In. I ordered them a tad to short.

14" On GPU Length (No Problem)

CPU and 24pin at 8" (Easily could have ordered 10" Long. )





TCO. Having the CPU cable remade. The 24pin can be short because the Res has to push in the middle of it to fit.


----------



## Kimir

You could have the 24pin longer and make it go on the side of the res too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You could have the 24pin longer and make it go on the side of the res too.


Cables are paid in full. The CPU being made longer is on the House. I would like both remade but will make due with what is given to me. I tried bargaining already.

TCO

Though I appreciate the Idea


----------



## emsj86

I'm hoping my cables reach forgot I didn't go extensions which I kinda wish I did. Well I'll find out soon shipped over a week ago so should be here soon


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm hoping my cables reach forgot I didn't go extensions which I kinda wish I did. Well I'll find out soon shipped over a week ago so should be here soon


Yea.... I thought "That will be perfect"

Started installing the cables and was more along the lines of "I Need to take a break real quick before I rip them out of the PSU"

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Kinda why I wish I just went extensions as my psu will be out of sight anyways. Oh well


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Welcome to Watercooling........Drama central all year round.....


Amen to that!

How ever the time has passed - might be worth checking out the new kids on the block







MMM


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Welcome to Watercooling........Drama central all year round.....
> 
> 
> 
> Amen to that!
> 
> How ever the time has passed - might be worth checking out the new kids on the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MMM
Click to expand...

Did I miss your announcement or is it still coming?


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Did I miss your announcement or is it still coming?


I was being subtle - ModMyMods has launched - new store with some old employees of a certain other company.


----------



## VSG

It came, and got deleted by mods already despite the delay being on their end. Essentially news of a new outlet for watercooling and PC mods titled ModMyMods based in the east coast. You might know some of the guys from this place already.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Did I miss your announcement or is it still coming?
> 
> 
> 
> I was being subtle - ModMyMods has launched - new store with some old employees of a certain other company.
Click to expand...

Ah cool, I'll check them out. Thanks


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> I was being subtle - ModMyMods has launched - new store with some old employees of a certain other company.


You guys threw some parts their way, but who provided the principle capital?

Hmmmm, I think I know who. wink wink nudge nudge, say no more.


----------



## AT-Pascal

Actually they got a loan







(from a bank - lol)

Reason we are so behind them is we know the guys personally having worked with them for many years meeting up with them at trade shows etc we know how professional they are so we wanted to get in on the ground floor. they have ordered and paid for their stock like any other reseller we just gave them a few extra freebies to give them a good launch party


----------



## emsj86

If there is a website up could someone pm me it thanks


----------



## Archea47

But do they stock Mayhems and push-fit fittings?

Really annoying placing another $75+ order with AquaTuning when I need one more push-fit

The service from AquaTuning is exceptional though. Regardless of where in the world they're located, I get the parts in time as if they were based in the US. I just don't always appreciate the minimum order


----------



## VSG

Just add a .com to the name


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If there is a website up could someone pm me it thanks


http://modmymods.com/

ninja'ed by 46 seconds!


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> But do they stock Mayhems and push-fit fittings?
> 
> Really annoying placing another $75+ order with AquaTuning when I need one more push-fit
> 
> The service from AquaTuning is exceptional though. Regardless of where in the world they're located, I get the parts in time as if they were based in the US. I just don't always appreciate the minimum order


Awww thanks guys!

They are just starting out so have a word with them and im sure they will bend over backwards for you









lol @geggeg


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> *Actually they got a loan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (from a bank - lol)
> 
> Reason we are so behind them is we know the guys personally having worked with them for many years meeting up with them at trade shows etc we know how professional they are so we wanted to get in on the ground floor. they have ordered and paid for their stock like any other reseller we just gave them a few extra freebies to give them a good launch party


Like I said, wink wink nudge nudge.























.


----------



## emsj86

I was having a dum moment. I was typing in mod my toys. And was thinking this is car stuff.


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I was having a dum moment. I was typing in mod my toys. And was thinking this is car stuff.


*dumb


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> But do they stock Mayhems and push-fit fittings?
> 
> Really annoying placing another $75+ order with AquaTuning when I need one more push-fit
> 
> The service from AquaTuning is exceptional though. Regardless of where in the world they're located, I get the parts in time as if they were based in the US. I just don't always appreciate the minimum order


Agreed on the Aquatuning 75.00 minimum order to the US. @AT-Pascal


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Agreed on the Aquatuning 75.00 minimum order to the US. @AT-Pascal


If your saw the actual shipping cost if we didnt subserdise it you would prefer the minimum order LOL


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> If your saw the actual shipping cost if we didnt subserdise it you would prefer the minimum order LOL


Didnt realize the shipping was subsidized . I thought you guys had a agreement with UPS but 8.00 2-3 day and 15.00 one day did seem kind of cheap.UPS cant even do that in the US.


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Didnt realize the shipping was subsidized . I thought you guys had a agreement with UPS but 8.00 2-3 day and 15.00 one day did seem kind of cheap.UPS cant even do that in the US.


yeah it is which is why its offset by the minimum order - yes it is a pain but we have to cover the costs


----------



## Archea47

Quick upd
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Bought from PPCs. Sent them an email - we'll see


Update: PPCs contacted Mayhems and PPCs is going to send me a replacement bottle of Mayhem's Part 1! (my bottle in my Blitz Pro kit had 175ml of the 250ml)

Still happy with the new PPCs


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I was having a dum moment. I was typing in mod my toys. And was thinking this is car stuff.


I actually thought that too first time I saw the name. ModMyToys is a Performance PCs sub brand.


----------



## Archea47

What's the purpose of the pH meter included with the Mayhem's pro kit?

I read the directions of using Part1 and Part2 and neither mentioned testing the pH?

Also should we be adding the pH buffer to a system running Mayhem's Pastels?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> What's the purpose of the pH meter included with the Mayhem's pro kit?
> 
> I read the directions of using Part1 and Part2 and neither mentioned testing the pH?


Its meant to test the PH of the water like a fish tank. It will tell you when you PH is just right. Balanced PH means balanced water not too acidic. I would buy test strips from the pet store. The strips that come with the biocide dont always read right. Thats what I did.


----------



## funfordcobra

From DiY?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quick upd
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Bought from PPCs. Sent them an email - we'll see
> 
> 
> 
> Update: PPCs contacted Mayhems and PPCs is going to send me a replacement bottle of Mayhem's Part 1! (my bottle in my Blitz Pro kit had 175ml of the 250ml)
> 
> Still happy with the new PPCs
Click to expand...

Good to hear that, Thanks for update


----------



## Gabrielzm

I will be sure to visit modmymods and if they ship internationally will be my first stop to buy stuff. They even carry GTs


----------



## iBruce

ModMyMods, hmmmm, I'm guessing PimpMyPimps came in a close second during the voting.










Welcome to the neighborhood, MMM!









(little bags of M&Ms shipped with every order)


----------



## Ceadderman

I just had a flashback to when I was a kid watching the late night MMM carpet marathons in the Southbay area California.









Glad to know that the guys from you know where have a good home to start from.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

What kind of shop name is that..........

Sounds like a Vape shop.....


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What kind of shop name is that..........
> 
> Sounds like a Vape shop.....


Lol I just saw the post on Facebook


----------



## Ceadderman

Which?

ModMyMods
PimpMyPimp
MMM Carpets?

Ahhhh Facebook post. Now I undastand.

Run away! Run away!









~Ceadder


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which?
> 
> ModMyMods
> PimpMyPimp
> MMM Carpets?
> 
> Ahhhh Facebook post. Now I undastand.
> 
> Run away! Run away!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


lol yeah, something about their site sure seems familiar though...


----------



## Ceadderman

IKR... looks sorta like abother well known shops initial Web setup with subtle changes.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which?
> 
> ModMyMods
> PimpMyPimp
> MMM Carpets?
> 
> Ahhhh Facebook post. Now I undastand.
> 
> Run away! Run away!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder












Was only a "play on words" guys since we all use both words mod and pimp synonymously, sometimes.

Not meant as derogatory at all, only for a few giggles, Good Luck MMM.

A beginning is a very delicate time.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What kind of shop name is that..........
> 
> Sounds like a Vape shop.....


----------



## SteezyTN

Also forgot... Performance-PCS sent me a T-Shirt


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice score Steezy!









~Ceadder


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*


10/10


----------



## kl6mk6

140 EK Vardars are up on PPC homepage. They aren't in the search database yet. I didn't see any F3s.


----------



## dbudd424

So I figured this would be a good place to ask this question. So I'm making a parts list of what I have left to buy for my WC build.

Biggest issue is the GPU. I have a 780 GHZ gigabyte so custom pcb non-reference. So from looking around I have 2 choices that I could find.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-nexxxos-gpx-nvidia-geforce-gtx-780-m02-w-backplate-black.html

or

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Gigabyte-VGA-water-block-n78t-x-gtx780ti-gtx780-gv-n78tghz-full-water-cooling-block/431286_32249869958.html

Both have a long list of pros and cons. So I figured I would get some input from other people on what they think.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you have 780ti you can get an EK block with backplate for $50 in OCN marketplace. I think you need 25 rep but that can be obtained in reasonably short order.

That deal is by far the best option. The other two that you listed cannot begin to compare.









~Ceadder


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you have 780ti you can get an EK block with backplate for $50 in OCN marketplace. I think you need 25 rep but that can be obtained in reasonably short order.
> 
> That deal is by far the best option. The other two that you listed cannot begin to compare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You only need rep to sell things in classifieds, anyone can buy. Also you need 35 rep to make a listing. Sounds like a great deal for that block.


----------



## dbudd424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you have 780ti you can get an EK block with backplate for $50 in OCN marketplace. I think you need 25 rep but that can be obtained in reasonably short order.
> 
> That deal is by far the best option. The other two that you listed cannot begin to compare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ya problem is its a reference block. That is where I run into my problem I can find a bunch of reference blocks that would fit but I bought a non-reference block card so I have to find ones made just to fit. EK made one but I cant find it other then 1 listed on Frozencpu so idk lol. That is why I'm limited on choices.

Thanks for the info thou. I didn't know we had a area that sold things so time to start looking around.


----------



## Archea47

I'm going to remind myself this is the picture thread and post with no remorse


----------



## dbudd424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'm going to remind myself this is the picture thread and post with no remorse


The paint job looks clean.

What is that 1 monsta , 4 UT60 and a st30 ?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbudd424*
> 
> The paint job looks clean.
> 
> What is that 1 monsta , 4 UT60 and a st30 ?


Thanks!

Its:
1x Monsta 360
2x Coolgate G2 360
2x UT60 240
1x ST30 240

Also in those shots ... Aquaero 6 pro, various fittings, copper pipe, two OCZ Vector 180s (to RAID0 like my current sammys), pressure/leak tester ...


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbudd424*
> 
> Ya problem is its a reference block. That is where I run into my problem I can find a bunch of reference blocks that would fit but I bought a non-reference block card so I have to find ones made just to fit. EK made one but I cant find it other then 1 listed on Frozencpu so idk lol. That is why I'm limited on choices.
> 
> Thanks for the info thou. I didn't know we had a area that sold things so time to start looking around.


How about that! Just so it happens that I have an EK block and backplate for the Gigabyte GTX 780 Ghz for sale. Found a very cheap GTX 980 on Craigslist and retired the GTX 780 Ghz.
Just posted in the marketplace!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1569587/ek-block-and-backplate-for-gigabyte-gtx-780-ti-ghz/0_100


----------



## bmgjet

5820k @ 4.4ghz
Asus X99-A
EVGA 980ti @ 1.5/8ghz
Cosair 750D.


----------



## Jasonbla20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbudd424*
> 
> So I figured this would be a good place to ask this question. So I'm making a parts list of what I have left to buy for my WC build.
> 
> Biggest issue is the GPU. I have a 780 GHZ gigabyte so custom pcb non-reference. So from looking around I have 2 choices that I could find.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-nexxxos-gpx-nvidia-geforce-gtx-780-m02-w-backplate-black.html
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Gigabyte-VGA-water-block-n78t-x-gtx780ti-gtx780-gv-n78tghz-full-water-cooling-block/431286_32249869958.html
> 
> Both have a long list of pros and cons. So I figured I would get some input from other people on what they think.


If you need a 780Ti block, I have a Koolance one that I'll give you - just pay shipping. It's a full coverage block with backplate. I've had it listed locally for as low as $20 with zero calls.


----------



## Jasonbla20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonbla20*
> 
> If you need a 780Ti block, I have a Koolance one that I'll give you - just pay shipping. It's a full coverage block with backplate. I've had it listed locally for as low as $20 with zero calls.


Oh sorry, my block won't work. Didn't read that you need a block for a non-reference PCB


----------



## Ceadderman

780ti is Reference huh who'da thunk. I was away before 7** series launched and got back just after 9** series arrived. So never paid attention mainly due to being nVidia. I try to stick with AMD whenever possible. Although the laptop was 7** series.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

So I keep going over routing of the tubing that I'll be using in my SMA8. I will be using 10 pass throughs, so I know it'll be a long loop. However, I'll be running two pumps in series. I shouldn't have an issue with that should I?

4 rads
3 blocks
Tons of 90's

But here's my main question. Instead of placing my two pumps right next to each other in the loop, would I gain better flow if I were to place the pumps halfway from each other?

For example; rad-GPU-rad-pump-rad-CPU-rad-pump....

Or would the flow he the same if I used rad-pump-pump-rad-GPU...


----------



## Ceadderman

You could have a pump outside and a pump inside your case and it wouldn't matter a lick for your flow rates.









Mine are right next to each other in a dual top running serial. Takes up less space and doesn't hinder nor help afaik.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You could have a pump outside and a pump inside your case and it wouldn't matter a lick for your flow rates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine are right next to each other in a dual top running serial. Takes up less space and doesn't hinder nor help afaik.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was originally going to go with one pump, but I said screw it lol. Plus this is my dream build, so $185 extra for the pump/res was worth it







it's mainly for the aesthetics of having a second tall res.

What do you mean hinder nor help? Are you talking about the pumps in series being next to each other, or a second pump won't help?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Where the pumps are located in the loop does not affect flow rate. Flow rate is determined by total pump pressure VS total loop restriction. Where its placed does not matter. Water does not slow down half way along the loop.
Pumps separated a long way just increases the possibility of air being trapped in the pump furthest from a reservoir.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Where the pumps are located in the loop does not affect flow rate. Flow rate is determined by total pump pressure VS total loop restriction. Where its placed does not matter. *Water does not slow down half way along the loop.*
> Pumps separated a long way just increases the possibility of air being trapped in the pump furthest from a reservoir.


Well, water does change velocity depending on restriction in certain parts of the loop (faster through individual block channels than through tubing, for example), but the volume of water remains constant. As for the question about pumps, it really doesn't matter, but I'd recommend keeping them somewhat close together for simplicity's sake.


----------



## deeph

Hi there,

I recently bought this AC XT 450 reservoir. But I only have tight space in Carbide 540 Air. So if I put the reservoir horizontally, will I ruin sensor reading?

Thanks
Deeph


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You could have a pump outside and a pump inside your case and it wouldn't matter a lick for your flow rates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine are right next to each other in a dual top running serial. Takes up less space and doesn't hinder nor help afaik.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was originally going to go with one pump, but I said screw it lol. Plus this is my dream build, so $185 extra for the pump/res was worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's mainly for the aesthetics of having a second tall res.
> 
> What do you mean hinder nor help? Are you talking about the pumps in series being next to each other, or a second pump won't help?
Click to expand...

Won't create a problem and will not fix a problem.

All they do is push water. Two pumps for sure is a good idea but as suggested keep them close for the sake of simplicity. I got my dual top for that reason as well as allowing me to shut one down to keep as a backup for JiC precautions. I can tell you for a fact that it makes no diiferemce in temps with a single loop with few restrictions as I first had.

I will be testing this out when I complete my updated loop, since I will be running 3 more blocks and two more 360s.









~Ceadder


----------



## corysti

Has anyone had problems with performance pcs picking the wrong stuff? So far my last 4 orders has been wrong. First order I bought a bunch of 12mm petg and they sent me 16mm acrylic instead. I ordered a bunch of white heat shrink and they send me black instead. I ordered a bunch of stop fittings in chrome and they send me the black ones. I can sent each thing back but it's not cost effective for me to send it back because of the shipping back to them and having to wait another week to get the new stuff . I'm not sure who's doing the picking but so far it's the same guy messing it up each time. And apparently they have multiple people looks at it but I think they only sign it and don't even check


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd be calling them on that, 4 times is too many to be coincidence


----------



## longroadtrip

I would refuse to pay return shipping for their mistakes. Have them email you a prepaid shipping label or dispute the charge for not receiving what you ordered.

The only issue I've ever had with them was a pump top missing the screws. A quick email and 2 days later received them in the mail.


----------



## corysti

I sent them a long email and hopefully they will tell me something by Monday.


----------



## emsj86

cables out in for project b the bends. Come by and check out more


----------



## deadwidesmile

Contact Duke. He'll be able to help you out. They are definitely having problems at the moment.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> cables out in for project b the bends. Come by and check out more


sleeve your own?


----------



## emsj86

No icemodZ very good guy. Didn't have the time to sleeve mine. I will be sleeving my fans, sata power and connector cables though


----------



## deadwidesmile

It's not the clear acrylic version I intended, but I'm coming to really like the black on black. Crow build?
Apologies for bad pictures and missing the first half. I'm actually at work doing this in some down time and break.







And finally, the hardest and most nerve racking part of any water block type gadget install ever...


You literally press down on the main terminal and pray nothing breaks. The bottom block is more or less floating. Requires pushing down and pushing up with a finger or two simultaneously..



Finished, viola! I'll be installing into the x9 tomorrow after a short day at the plant.


----------



## digitalbirth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Has anyone had problems with performance pcs picking the wrong stuff? So far my last 4 orders has been wrong. First order I bought a bunch of 12mm petg and they sent me 16mm acrylic instead. I ordered a bunch of white heat shrink and they send me black instead. I ordered a bunch of stop fittings in chrome and they send me the black ones. I can sent each thing back but it's not cost effective for me to send it back because of the shipping back to them and having to wait another week to get the new stuff . I'm not sure who's doing the picking but so far it's the same guy messing it up each time. And apparently they have multiple people looks at it but I think they only sign it and don't even check


I've had problems with them also. I ordered an xspc reservoir for my home server and they send me single bay xspc temp sensor bracket. Yah there similar to each other right? (face Palm) .


----------



## toggLesss

Shout Out To All My Fellow CaseLabs Owners!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalbirth*
> 
> I've had problems with them also. I ordered an xspc reservoir for my home server and they send me single bay xspc temp sensor bracket. Yah there similar to each other right? (face Palm) .


Hmm, I've spent $1500-2000 with them in the past couple months and haven't had a mis-picked part. I did have an issue but it was with one of their vendors and PPCs fixed it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> Shout Out To All My Fellow CaseLabs Owners!


Woop!! Haha too true. Not sure how a $350 or $400 Mercury S8 became $828 out the door!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> Shout Out To All My Fellow CaseLabs Owners!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Niiiiice!












On the PPCs issue... only one time did I have an issue like this and that was 4 or 5 years ago. Supremacy instead of Supreme HF. That's a $20 mistake in my favor since the Supreme HF was EoL. Got the Red top that I ordered correct though. Contacted them and got it sorted out.

I suspect that either they have somebody new there in training who doesn't quite grasp the part number system or it's a family member who thinks they're helping during the busy time during Frozens extended absence from the market. Whatever it is it's only annoying to us since we have to wait for our parts and the wait gets extended. I am really sure that they aren't doing it intentionally, because the only business(es) making out on this is the shipping companies. I feel for Duke having to compensate buyers on the back end, but he's gonna get it fixed imho. Just be patient and treat them the way you would wish to be treated.









Wish I lived in the area to shop locally or offer my services to help me out. Payable only in water cooling gear.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Not sure how a $350 or $400 Mercury S8 became $828 out the door!


that's the truth.
when i first looked at the SMA8, i saw $519 and thought, "hmm it's high, but ill splurge." after rad mounts and I/O panels and extended tops and whatever else was needed, i'm was well over $700 and an 8 week processing time. lol hopefully it'll be worth it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> that's the truth.
> when i first looked at the SMA8, i saw $519 and thought, "hmm it's high, but ill splurge." after rad mounts and I/O panels and extended tops and whatever else was needed, i'm was well over $700 and an 8 week processing time. lol hopefully it'll be worth it.


Mine came to $780 total with all the rad brackets and such. I really hope mine ships out before the 19th. I paid so much more for my PC than I had originally wanted lol. I had a budget of like $1500 with a GTX 780 last year, and I'm already close to the $7000 mark thanks to this caselabs build lol. I spent about $1500 just for all the extra radiators and fans lol


----------



## Archea47

Contrast, anyone?


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> Shout Out To All My Fellow CaseLabs Owners!


LOL! This is spot on!


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the PPCs issue... only one time did I have an issue like this and that was 4 or 5 years ago. Supremacy instead of Supreme HF. That's a $20 mistake in my favor since the Supreme HF was EoL. Got the Red top that I ordered correct though. Contacted them and got it sorted out.
> 
> I suspect that either they have somebody new there in training who doesn't quite grasp the part number system or it's a family member who thinks they're helping during the busy time during Frozens extended absence from the market. Whatever it is it's only annoying to us since we have to wait for our parts and the wait gets extended. I am really sure that they aren't doing it intentionally, because the only business(es) making out on this is the shipping companies. I feel for Duke having to compensate buyers on the back end, but he's gonna get it fixed imho. Just be patient and treat them the way you would wish to be treated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I lived in the area to shop locally or offer my services to help me out. Payable only in water cooling gear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yup you are right on this one they have a shed load of new staff in and having a few teething problems but they will always sort out your mistakes and as time goes on it will be business as normal.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Has anyone had problems with performance pcs picking the wrong stuff? So far my last 4 orders has been wrong. First order I bought a bunch of 12mm petg and they sent me 16mm acrylic instead. I ordered a bunch of white heat shrink and they send me black instead. I ordered a bunch of stop fittings in chrome and they send me the black ones. I can sent each thing back but it's not cost effective for me to send it back because of the shipping back to them and having to wait another week to get the new stuff . I'm not sure who's doing the picking but so far it's the same guy messing it up each time. And apparently they have multiple people looks at it but I think they only sign it and don't even check


I almost buy my stuff from PPCs exclusively nowadays, greatest selection and lightning shipping times! The very few times they messed up my order and sent the wrong items, they also sent me a return label to send the item back to them. Contact them, if you didn't already and they'll fix it. They always fixed it for me in a timely fashion.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> I would refuse to pay return shipping for their mistakes. Have them email you a prepaid shipping label or dispute the charge for not receiving what you ordered.
> 
> The only issue I've ever had with them was a pump top missing the screws. A quick email and 2 days later received them in the mail.


Yep, my first reaction was the same!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the PPCs issue... only one time did I have an issue like this and that was 4 or 5 years ago. Supremacy instead of Supreme HF. That's a $20 mistake in my favor since the Supreme HF was EoL. Got the Red top that I ordered correct though. Contacted them and got it sorted out.
> 
> I suspect that either they have somebody new there in training who doesn't quite grasp the part number system or it's a family member who thinks they're helping during the busy time during Frozens extended absence from the market. Whatever it is it's only annoying to us since we have to wait for our parts and the wait gets extended. I am really sure that they aren't doing it intentionally, because the only business(es) making out on this is the shipping companies. I feel for Duke having to compensate buyers on the back end, but he's gonna get it fixed imho. *Just be patient and treat them the way you would wish to be treated.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I lived in the area to shop locally or offer my services to help me out. Payable only in water cooling gear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


You sound like a wise fellow Ceadder!







If more people would follow that piece of advice, many situations would resolve so much quicker. A CC representative shouldn't act like a Richard just because the customer is a Richard, that thing about being professionaland all, but being nice goes a long way...


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Has anyone had problems with performance pcs picking the wrong stuff? So far my last 4 orders has been wrong. First order I bought a bunch of 12mm petg and they sent me 16mm acrylic instead. I ordered a bunch of white heat shrink and they send me black instead. I ordered a bunch of stop fittings in chrome and they send me the black ones. I can sent each thing back but it's not cost effective for me to send it back because of the shipping back to them and having to wait another week to get the new stuff . I'm not sure who's doing the picking but so far it's the same guy messing it up each time. And apparently they have multiple people looks at it but I think they only sign it and don't even check


Yeah I just ordered a bitspower D5 pump mod kit and they only sent the pump stand valued at $10. It was kind of a pain to resolve had to take pics like they didnt believe me and ship it back then wait
for the proper kit. And a molex splitter was wrong


----------



## Archea47

another water cooling picture







Alphacool Monsta 360 in a Case Labs S8 pedestal with three 3000RPM EK Vardars:


Monstas are certifiable monsters in girth:


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> another water cooling picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool Monsta 360 in a Case Labs S8 pedestal with three 3000RPM EK Vardars:
> 
> 
> Monstas are certifiable monsters in girth:


Fracken drooling Nice - Thanks for sharing

Archea47 water cooled the Asus sabertooth FX 990 R2 board . There is no full water block for the board. How they have not created on is beyond me. But Archea47 wrote a guide on how to do it. Thanks by the way for helping the people with the Sabertooth FX 990.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Fracken drooling Nice - Thanks for sharing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Archea47 water cooled the Asus sabertooth FX 990 R2 board . There is no full water block for the board. How they have not created on is beyond me. But Archea47 wrote a guide on how to do it. Thanks by the way for helping the people with the Sabertooth FX 990.


Thanks Jflisk!

Lighting is getting poor but I have the three 360 rad mounts built and test fitted:


It's going to be a real puzzle getting everything wired and piped in with the pedestal and that side 360


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.ensourced.net/
> 
> Joey makes very good work. That was the only part of the build I did not do it myself, and the psu sticker thks to guitarhero. Reservoir, fans, rads and case painting, leds stripes and extrusion, diffuser, fan hub sticker, drills and case cuts, and fluid color all done in house.
> 
> And since it was sunset to follow the night shots with just the leds/diffuser lights on:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grey Matter is done and ready to take to work


Nice work!!


----------



## JLMS2010

Hope you all enjoy a few pictures.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## OGBeandip

love the color. Are you going to be using a glass side pane?

And have you modified that SLI bridge for a green LED?


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> love the color. Are you going to be using a glass side pane?
> 
> And have you modified that SLI bridge for a green LED?


Glass side panel? No, it's the plexi window. I wasn't planning on changing it. The bridge is white right now. I have the green EVGA piece to replace it. I just haven't had a chance yet. Extremely busy! Lol


----------



## TrumpyAl

Nothing special or custom, but my first foray into water cooling and I love it. I think the UV top light and red lower create a unique combo?









Just a [email protected] with twin GTX970's pushing 5 million pixels around on an AOC Ultra-wide.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@TrumpyAl

Diggin the Computer, and Colours

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

So I ordered the Corsair Link Commander Mini to control my EK Vardars. Every 5 seconds or so, the vardars make a little teeny audible clicking type sound. Is this the fan itself, or is that associated with Corsair Link? Should I just say screw it and pick up an Aquaero 6, or even 5 LT?

Back when I had my H100i, those fans would always make a clicking/rattle sound. It drove me absolutely nuts. I returned the fans (SP120 HP) and didn't think id get Corsair fans again. Then I decided to try them again, but with the 3 pin instead. I have then connected to my NZXT Sentry Mix 2, and have no problems with the clicking. My only assumption is that its corsair link causing the clicking.


----------



## TrumpyAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @TrumpyAl
> 
> Diggin the Computer, and Colours
> 
> TCO


Not as hard as I'm digging The Division!

Cheers


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrumpyAl*
> 
> Not as hard as I'm digging The Division!
> 
> Cheers


I appreciate the Compliment. Treat to myself for not having any lasting this long without having any Kids









I have been Working it to the Bone playing Civ V on Ultra









Waiting on Metal Gear Solid V









TCO


----------



## emsj86

Did they come out with the different color replacements yet for evga sli bridge v2? Or our you just using colored film


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I ordered the Corsair Link Commander Mini to control my EK Vardars. Every 5 seconds or so, the vardars make a little teeny audible clicking type sound. Is this the fan itself, or is that associated with Corsair Link? Should I just say screw it and pick up an Aquaero 6, or even 5 LT?
> 
> Back when I had my H100i, those fans would always make a clicking/rattle sound. It drove me absolutely nuts. I returned the fans (SP120 HP) and didn't think id get Corsair fans again. Then I decided to try them again, but with the 3 pin instead. I have then connected to my NZXT Sentry Mix 2, and have no problems with the clicking. My only assumption is that its corsair link causing the clicking.


If they are PWM fans then just take 1 fan and connect it to temporarily to your motherboard PWM directly and see if it still makes the noise. That might tell you if it is the controller or the fan.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> If they are PWM fans then just take 1 fan and connect it to temporarily to your motherboard PWM directly and see if it still makes the noise. That might tell you if it is the controller or the fan.


The Vardars are PWM. Let me try that. The only PWM header is the CPU header. Thanks


----------



## iBruce

Photos from July 2015 after 10months (September 2014) of service, all components were clean except this growth in the Supremacy nickel plexi EVO microchannels and underneath the octagon shaped oring the nickel plating is completely dissolved. Using EK clear coolant and Monsoon fittings with silver plated barbs and XSPC RX360 copper rad. I did ask EK reps before filling the loop and they did NOT recommend the silver plated Monsoon barbs rather the painted non-silver Monsoon barbs, is that my mistake?

What am I doing wrong? OR is this normal for 10months? CPU temps did not rise. Have a brand new EK Supremacy EVO nickel plexi X99 version block, don't want to make the same mistake with the X99 loop.

Sound advice is mucho apreciado









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3230_zpsrsb7hnbd.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3225_zpsom2kqr8n.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3232_zps5gw0shan.png.html








dat gunk!

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_2703_zpslfgzx653.jpg.html


----------



## Archea47

I had that gunk in my first Supremacy after a couple months. The consensus in this thread was that it probably came from the radiators, which I had only flushed with distilled at the time.

Might be worthwhile to get a Mayhems Blitz Pro kit


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> If they are PWM fans then just take 1 fan and connect it to temporarily to your motherboard PWM directly and see if it still makes the noise. That might tell you if it is the controller or the fan.


Yup, its definitely a fan. I connected both fans (2 as of now) via PWM splitter to my CPU header on my MAximus VI Hero, and I heard the noise/clicking/chirping still. So I then tried each fan (still connected to the splitter because they aren't long enough to reach it) separate and only one fan made the sound.

I really don't feel like doing an RMA. The sound is still there, but I think ill be able to tune it out (for now lol)


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> If they are PWM fans then just take 1 fan and connect it to temporarily to your motherboard PWM directly and see if it still makes the noise. That might tell you if it is the controller or the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, its definitely a fan. I connected both fans (2 as of now) via PWM splitter to my CPU header on my MAximus VI Hero, and I heard the noise/clicking/chirping still. So I then tried each fan (still connected to the splitter because they aren't long enough to reach it) separate and only one fan made the sound.
> 
> I really don't feel like doing an RMA. The sound is still there, but I think ill be able to tune it out (for now lol)
Click to expand...

Hmm that sucks. There are plenty of EK reps around here, you can ask them directly or over in the EK subforum, etc, but I can't imagine this is normal.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yup, its definitely a fan. I connected both fans (2 as of now) via PWM splitter to my CPU header on my MAximus VI Hero, and I heard the noise/clicking/chirping still. So I then tried each fan (still connected to the splitter because they aren't long enough to reach it) separate and only one fan made the sound.
> 
> I really don't feel like doing an RMA. The sound is still there, but I think ill be able to tune it out (for now lol)


RMA it, because if you think the 1300 G2 is to loud, we will never hear the end of the Fan Noise









TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> RMA it, because if you think the 1300 G2 is to loud, we will never hear the end of the Fan Noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Man, there's a huge difference between being loud and a fan that doesn't sound like the rest, such as clicking.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Looks like I need some help, it was all going so smoothly..

I put my loop together, proceeded to leak test via air. It won't hold air. My leak tester does have a small leak itself (lol) but it takes probably 24 hrs to lose 1 pound when it is capped off itself. Putting it to my rig, I was losing about 4 pounds an hour, starting at 10 PSI.

I didn't test each component separately but did break down the loop into a few sub sections and they all lost air about the same rate, so that makes me think it could be the fittings/ o rings just not working rather than 1 bad spot.

I replaced all the o rings on the fittings since most of my fittings were used with new Bitspower "bulk" o-rings (this set). Each o ring I put some silicone grease on so they weren't dry, and every fitting was very tight, flattening the o-rings even.

Now comparing these bulk o-rings to a new Bitspower fitting's o-ring, they aren't as thick or soft as the green OEM BP fitting o-ring. Are they just junk? Any other reasons why I'm not holding air? Maybe the fittings aren't supposed to be so tight?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Man, there's a huge difference between being loud and a fan that doesn't sound like the rest, such as clicking.


So why would you keep it?

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So why would you keep it?
> 
> TCO


Didn't you read my first post? I didn't know if it was the Corsair link (because of previous issues), or if the fan is normal like that. Well it was only one fan, so i said I could live with it. It's not to much noticeable (compared to a fan the run at close to max speed during idle). You've become too cocky. I don't like it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> *Yup, its definitely a fan.* I connected both fans (2 as of now) via PWM splitter to my CPU header on my MAximus VI Hero, and I heard the noise/clicking/chirping still. So I then tried each fan (still connected to the splitter because they aren't long enough to reach it) separate and only one fan made the sound.
> 
> I really don't feel like doing an RMA. The sound is still there, but I think ill be able to tune it out (for now lol)


I quoted this post. Thought you figured out the fan was bad. And the question was regarding whether to RMA it or not.

Sorry You feel that I have Become "Cocky"

It's your Money Steez.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I quoted this post. Thought you figured out the fan was bad. And the question was regarding whether to RMA it or not.
> 
> Sorry You feel that I have Become "Cocky"
> 
> It's your Money Steez.
> 
> TCO


Much love brotha


----------



## DarthBaggins

well looks like I need to buy a new case within the next week as I'm moving the family to Nantucket till mid to late October (be in Atlanta from Mid October to Mid May then live in Nantucket from Mid May etc).

Want an X2M or S5 but I wont get that in time to build and looking more towards a mATX so I can swap my x99 into it (x2M I'd use my 4790k I have collecting dust). any suggestions since it needs to be watercooled (once you go custom water you never go back - well at least I wont) Also, similar to @TheCautiousOne, I'd like to showcase this in the Gallery I'll be running as well.

if I were to go S5 (would have to part with my lovely M8







):


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Much *love* brotha










Not so sure about that...

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so sure about that...
> 
> TCO


I know it. I'm just lonely without my case.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> well looks like I need to buy a new case within the next week as I'm moving the family to Nantucket till mid to late October (be in Atlanta from Mid October to Mid May then live in Nantucket from Mid May etc).
> 
> Want an X2M or S5 but I wont get that in time to build and looking more towards a mATX so I can swap my x99 into it (x2M I'd use my 4790k I have collecting dust). any suggestions since it needs to be watercooled (once you go custom water you never go back - well at least I wont) Also, similar to @TheCautiousOne
> , I'd like to showcase this in the Gallery I'll be running as well.
> 
> if I were to go S5 (would have to part with my lovely M8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It would be fine to see you working in an S5 ( I could only imagine that the space in the S5 could have allowed me way more possiblities of a loop than the S3) Although I would hate to see the M8 Go if you got an S5!

You just finished your build Man!

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know, well so far the other half is ok w/ taking the M8 with us to MA lol. So might end up planning the move for that beast. But I know my dad needs a new rig for the gallery and mentioned wanting a Mac (simple for him to use etc), for me I want a real rig to showcase in the gallery which is why I'd love to have a S5 which I can load whatever OS I want into it really (also I just want something new to build lol). Just hoping the ISP at the gallery is fast lol


----------



## SteezyTN

I CANNOT WAIT to install these bad boys! Haha

XSPC 270 Photon D5 PWM w/ Bitspower D5 Mod Kits.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I had that gunk in my first Supremacy after a couple months. The consensus in this thread was that it probably came from the radiators, which I had only flushed with distilled at the time.
> 
> Might be worthwhile to get a Mayhems Blitz Pro kit


+rep, yea I only completed some distilled flushes with the rad, thanks.

iBruce signing off...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know, well so far the other half is ok w/ taking the M8 with us to MA lol. So might end up planning the move for that beast. But I know my dad needs a new rig for the gallery and mentioned wanting a Mac (simple for him to use etc), for me I want a real rig to showcase in the gallery which is why I'd love to have a S5 which I can load whatever OS I want into it really *(also I just want something new to build lol)*


I understand that for sure!









This Gallery you speak of.. What do you mean?

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's my dad's: Cromartie Studio & Gallery - http://www.cromartiegallery.com/ He showcases his works and a colleague of his Kerry Hallam, then I have have some of my works up there too (photography - can't paint for crap unless it's with a spray can lol)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's my dad's: Cromartie Studio & Gallery - http://www.cromartiegallery.com/


Interesting!

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I would be more inclined to buy or look in there if I saw a nice watercooled rig in it lol


----------



## deadwidesmile

Seahawks?


----------



## funfordcobra

I think I'm at a stopping point until I get my caselabs in. I'll do acrylic when there's enough room to plumb in a few months.
x3 EK 240s ,x2 EK TitanX blocks, evo supremacy block.

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/Mobile Uploads/20150817_153149.jpg.html

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/Mobile Uploads/20150817_153241.jpg.html

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/Mobile Uploads/20150817_153216.jpg.html


----------



## Radnad

nice build, jealous. since i've been water cooling i cant stop, if there is a way please let me know.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> nice build, jealous. since i've been water cooling i cant stop, if there is a way please let me know.


Sell all your possessions and use the proceedings to charter a plane, then jump out in the far Norths of Canada with no communications equipment. It'll give you at least a few months off


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> nice build, jealous. since i've been water cooling i cant stop, if there is a way please let me know.


Step away from the D5 pump


----------



## newls1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Sell all your possessions and use the proceedings to charter a plane, then jump out in the far Norths of Canada with no communications equipment. It'll give you at least a few months off


aint that the truth... damn


----------



## nycgtr

@funfordcobra

Are you sponsored by evga or something? Just curious. The only parts I see from evga is your bridge lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> 
> 
> Seahawks?


WHo Dis For?

TCO


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> @funfordcobra
> 
> Are you sponsored by evga or something? Just curious. The only parts I see from evga is your bridge lol.


The case and evga engravings are from a previous build. The 980Tis in this build are EVGA and I have other random x99 parts ready to go in the caselabs, although the engravings will not.


----------



## nycgtr

ah ic. I like what you've done with the cosmos case. I liked that case alot but since it was never that watercooling friendly I didnt go for it. I got a s8 on order as well to replace my 780t.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> ah ic. I like what you've done with the cosmos case. I liked that case alot but since it was never that watercooling friendly I didnt go for it. I got a s8 on order as well to replace my 780t.


Thanks. Yea i realized how unfriendly it was during this build. I had to tear out everything, make all my own mounts, and then put on a facade'. Wasnt even able to put a 360 up top.. Caselabs it seems is the way to go now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Anyone Build in a Lian Li PC-06s yet?

TCO


----------



## Trestles126

New caselabs nova x2m build

Ek xtop d5 pump
Ek gtx680 acetal block
Ek supremacy elite nickel block
Ek res
Dark side slim cross flow rads

Custom acrylic psu cover in the works that will swallow the pump and conceal all cable management, it'll also be etched with octogons and have a backlit evga logo. Also plan on mounting betfinex recon in the side of it.

This is my "budget htpc build) ha did get a lot of good deals though

Just ordered all my bitspower black sparkle rigid fittings a lot to come
http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...8DBD66BC-95CE-4513-B54E-BBCF74537226.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...019DC9C1-CB29-4126-8155-1CC3DD91264F.jpg.html
http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...EF5C38DF-0634-48DF-ABFC-3EA153DD32B6.jpg.html


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really wish CaseLabs had released the other cases in the Nova line, but the X2M is a nice one


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> New caselabs nova x2m build
> 
> Ek xtop d5 pump
> Ek gtx680 acetal block
> Ek supremacy elite nickel block
> Ek res
> Dark side slim cross flow rads
> 
> Custom acrylic psu cover in the works that will swallow the pump and conceal all cable management, it'll also be etched with octogons and have a backlit evga logo. Also plan on mounting betfinex recon in the side of it.
> 
> This is my "budget htpc build) ha did get a lot of good deals though
> 
> Just ordered all my bitspower black sparkle rigid fittings a lot to come
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...8DBD66BC-95CE-4513-B54E-BBCF74537226.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...019DC9C1-CB29-4126-8155-1CC3DD91264F.jpg.html
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...EF5C38DF-0634-48DF-ABFC-3EA153DD32B6.jpg.html


Thats a really nice build. I agree that it would've been nice to see a Nova model for a mATX. I need SLI for my z97.


----------



## Trestles126

Few more with cables, going with mayhems blueberry fluid


----------



## deadwidesmile

Hey @TheCautiousOne, any idea on what sleeving to snag for nvidia green? Cablemods have beautiful cables but I'm not feeling the darker jade type green at the moment.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Hey @TheCautiousOne, any idea on what sleeving to snag for nvidia green? Cablemods have beautiful cables but I'm not feeling the darker jade type green at the moment.


Check Icemodz.com

They carry MDPC-x.









~Ceadder


----------



## toggLesss

water blocks came in today... case should be here tomorrow


----------



## Radnad

mmmmmm, water blocks.... i'm kind of a fan of partially exposed pcb, gives it a rustic feel.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Check Icemodz.com
> 
> They carry MDPC-x.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Shoot them a e-mail about it? Their store is awkward for me to navigate, heh.


----------



## crafty615

What ratio of distilled water to distilled white vinegar should I use to clean my new rx480 rad? Don't want to spend $40 for the entire blitz pro kit when all I need to do is clean the rads. I'll buy it when the loop has been running a while and needs to be cleaned.


----------



## Ceadderman

I use 1:1 first hot flush, step down to 3:1 distilled:vinegar and finally flush with straight distilled a few times to clear the remainder of the distilled.








~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> What ratio of distilled water to distilled white vinegar should I use to clean my new rx480 rad? Don't want to spend $40 for the entire blitz pro kit when all I need to do is clean the rads. I'll buy it when the loop has been running a while and needs to be cleaned.


You won't need the kit if you're not using pastel type coolant. From my understanding, you'll still need to bring the pH back to neutral because the vinegar will take it down to like 2 (assuming your using mayhems pastel). If your not, then just use a 1:4 ratio of Water 4 (distilled or tap) and white distilled vinegar 1. I just used 4 cups water and 1 cup vinegar, but you can probably cut that in half because the RX489 has about 500-530ml.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Hey @TheCautiousOne, any idea on what sleeving to snag for nvidia green? Cablemods have beautiful cables but I'm not feeling the darker jade type green at the moment.


I had the Green from Ultimatepersonalcomputers in my build.

Aegis Green.

Epic Match

TCO


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I use 1:1 first hot flush, step down to 3:1 distilled:vinegar and finally flush with straight distilled a few times to clear the remainder of the distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You won't need the kit if you're not using pastel type coolant. From my understanding, you'll still need to bring the pH back to neutral because the vinegar will take it down to like 2 (assuming your using mayhems pastel). If your not, then just use a 1:4 ratio of Water 4 (distilled or tap) and white distilled vinegar 1. I just used 4 cups water and 1 cup vinegar, but you can probably cut that in half because the RX489 has about 500-530ml.


Okay thanks







and i'm using mayhems UV green X1 coolant


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> What ratio of distilled water to distilled white vinegar should I use to clean my new rx480 rad? Don't want to spend $40 for the entire blitz pro kit when all I need to do is clean the rads. I'll buy it when the loop has been running a while and needs to be cleaned.


1) Vinegar no more then 30 minutes will eat the solder if left in to long.
2)Baking soda and water to neutralize the Vinegar. Will foam up
3)Distilled rinse a couple of times

You could always use Dawn dish washing detergent.

Might have to try melting some water based solder and dump it in Vineger see how long it actually takes to melt it or see how long before it softens. Not sure if its the resin or the solder that fails in Rads.


----------



## Leyaena

I've currently got a d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo, but I'm planning to add some extra radiator space to my system really soon.
The thing I was wondering, will I actually need an extra pump in order to deal with the extra elements I'm introducing into my loop?

currently in my loop:

1 x EK Supremacy CPU block
2 x Titan X block
1 x older (XTX?) 480mm EK radiator
2 x 240mm PE Radiators
1 x EK standalone reservoir
1 x d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I've currently got a d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo, but I'm planning to add some extra radiator space to my system really soon.
> The thing I was wondering, will I actually need an extra pump in order to deal with the extra elements I'm introducing into my loop?
> 
> currently in my loop:
> 
> 1 x EK Supremacy CPU block
> 2 x Titan X block
> 1 x older (XTX?) 480mm EK radiator
> 2 x 240mm PE Radiators
> 1 x EK standalone reservoir
> 1 x d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo


You shouldnt have problems unless you just have a bad pump.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I've currently got a d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo, but I'm planning to add some extra radiator space to my system really soon.
> The thing I was wondering, will I actually need an extra pump in order to deal with the extra elements I'm introducing into my loop?
> 
> currently in my loop:
> 
> 1 x EK Supremacy CPU block
> 2 x Titan X block
> 1 x older (XTX?) 480mm EK radiator
> 2 x 240mm PE Radiators
> 1 x EK standalone reservoir
> 1 x d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo


Im going to be running a huge loop, but im just going to be getting two pumps to be extra sure

RX480
RX360
RX240
560GTS
XSPC Raystorm block
2x EK Titan X blocks
and A LOT of tubing, bends, and 90 degree fittings/bends

You'll be fine with a single pump.


----------



## emsj86

See wermad build. One d5 can handle a lot.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> 1) Vinegar no more then 30 minutes will eat the solder if left in to long.
> 2)Baking soda and water to neutralize the Vinegar. Will foam up
> 3)Distilled rinse a couple of times


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I've currently got a d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo, but I'm planning to add some extra radiator space to my system really soon.
> The thing I was wondering, will I actually need an extra pump in order to deal with the extra elements I'm introducing into my loop?
> 
> currently in my loop:
> 
> 1 x EK Supremacy CPU block
> 2 x Titan X block
> 1 x older (XTX?) 480mm EK radiator
> 2 x 240mm PE Radiators
> 1 x EK standalone reservoir
> 1 x d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo


D5 should be able to handle that. You might want to consider the second D5 to increase the flow. Like you will have flow with the one but the second one should bring you closer to 1GPM is usually the bar but not the rule. I would try it with the one grab a flow meter and see where it sits. Welcome to water cooling where it gets more expensive when you just need to know.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Thats a really nice build. I agree that it would've been nice to see a Nova model for a mATX. I need SLI for my z97.


That's why I wish they at least released the X2


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's why I wish they at least released the X2


X5?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sigh...

Rads do not need to be acid cleaned,the flux used is _water_ soluble. The only time a rad needs to be acid cleaned is when you use Alphacool rads with pastel.
And thats only because Mayhem thinks that will stop colours turning....

Nothing in our loops,I do mean nothing,requires an acid clean. All you are doing is stripping copper.

I use a a hot water feed (bath tap) and just let it run for 15 mins or so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> 1) Vinegar no more then 30 minutes will eat the solder if left in to long.
> 2)Baking soda and water to neutralize the Vinegar. Will foam up
> 3)Distilled rinse a couple of times
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Leyaena*
> 
> I've currently got a d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo, but I'm planning to add some extra radiator space to my system really soon.
> The thing I was wondering, will I actually need an extra pump in order to deal with the extra elements I'm introducing into my loop?
> 
> currently in my loop:
> 
> 1 x EK Supremacy CPU block
> 2 x Titan X block
> 1 x older (XTX?) 480mm EK radiator
> 2 x 240mm PE Radiators
> 1 x EK standalone reservoir
> 1 x d5 Vario (non-pwm) Pump/Res combo
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> D5 should be able to handle that. You might want to consider the second D5 to increase the flow. Like you will have flow with the one but the second one should bring you closer to 1GPM is usually the bar but not the rule. I would try it with the one grab a flow meter and see where it sits. Welcome to water cooling where it gets more expensive when you just need to know.
Click to expand...

A single D5 or indeed any pump is more than enough for that loop,a second pump is not required.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know, well so far the other half is ok w/ taking the M8 with us to MA lol. So might end up planning the move for that beast. But I know my dad needs a new rig for the gallery and mentioned wanting a Mac (simple for him to use etc), for me I want a real rig to showcase in the gallery which is why I'd love to have a S5 which I can load whatever OS I want into it really (also I just want something new to build lol). Just hoping the ISP at the gallery is fast lol


If you sell the M8, I live in MA so sell it to me locally. I'll take it off your hands.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> See wermad build. One d5 can handle a lot.


your system is super sexy man...I like it...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> X5?


wouldn't mind the X5 either, but they're on hiatus until further notice due to their production is swamped (which is good for them)


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You won't need the kit if you're not using pastel type coolant. From my understanding, you'll still need to bring the pH back to neutral because the vinegar will take it down to like 2 (assuming your using mayhems pastel). If your not, then just use a 1:4 ratio of Water 4 (distilled or tap) and white distilled vinegar 1. I just used 4 cups water and 1 cup vinegar, but you can probably cut that in half because the RX489 has about 500-530ml.


So if I will use distilled and mayhems biocide as my fluid can I still flush with vinegar


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> So if I will use distilled and mayhems biocide as my fluid can I still flush with vinegar


You'll want to ask someone who knows 100%. All I know is that I used the vinegar and distilled water flush and then used my biocide dead water drops with no problems. I only used the blitz kits because I started using Mayhems Pastel colors.

On a side not, you don't even need to flush with vinegar if that's all your doing. Just heat up some water and shake it in the rad. Then constantly flush it out. You'll be fine without the vinegar.


----------



## deadwidesmile

I used 4 gallons of luke warm distilled in both my loops while swapping colors and such. Came out great. For first time radiator use, use hot water followed by a good rinse of distilled.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Looks like I need some help, it was all going so smoothly..
> 
> I put my loop together, proceeded to leak test via air. It won't hold air. My leak tester does have a small leak itself (lol) but it takes probably 24 hrs to lose 1 pound when it is capped off itself. Putting it to my rig, I was losing about 4 pounds an hour, starting at 10 PSI.
> 
> I didn't test each component separately but did break down the loop into a few sub sections and they all lost air about the same rate, so that makes me think it could be the fittings/ o rings just not working rather than 1 bad spot.
> 
> I replaced all the o rings on the fittings (since most of my fittings were used) with new Bitspower "bulk" o-rings (this set). Each o ring I put some silicone grease on so they weren't dry, and every fitting was very tight, flattening the o-rings even.
> 
> Now comparing these bulk o-rings to a new Bitspower fitting's o-ring, they aren't as thick or soft as the green OEM BP fitting o-ring. Are they just junk? Any other reasons why I'm not holding air? Maybe the fittings aren't supposed to be so tight?


Ideas?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Ideas?


Hey Faster,

It is possible for the fittings to be too tight to the point they distort the o-ring

I've seen suggested here to put a bit of bubble-blowing fuild or something of the like on a q-tip and rub the edges of each fitting - you might find the leak


----------



## Jflisk

Radiator solder joints/seems - CPU block seal. Also I would only apply power to the the pump fill it and add paper towels around everything. Distilled water has no real conductivity when fresh out of the container. Add water slowly so when you hit the leak you can stop drain the loop. Air is not really visible - maybe distilled and dawn to check the fittings with q tip on checking with air. I would start there what does the build look like


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Just setup my new system two weeks ago, and then got my RMA number for my step up to the 980 ti from my 980 classy. I had two 980 classies and now I'll have one left. I don't have the 980 ti block yet.





I don't feel like my 2x 280 was enough for 2 gpus and a CPU loop because my water temps always went up to 35+ Here's the final setup.







Any input would be appreciated


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Ideas?


do you have any ball valve or similar? If so you would be able to isolate the problem, particularly the leak from the Schrader valve itself. Also, pump up to 10-12 psi and put some kitchen soap on the fittings to check for bubbles. At 12 psi I could hear where the leak was.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Faster,
> 
> It is possible for the fittings to be too tight to the point they distort the o-ring
> 
> I've seen suggested here to put a bit of bubble-blowing fuild or something of the like on a q-tip and rub the edges of each fitting - you might find the leak
Click to expand...

Well the o-rings definitely flatten out when tight, I suppose that could be distorting them into a shape that loses seal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Radiator solder joints/seems - CPU block seal. Also I would only apply power to the the pump fill it and add paper towels around everything. Distilled water has no real conductivity when fresh out of the container. Add water slowly so when you hit the leak you can stop drain the loop. Air is not really visible - maybe distilled and dawn to check the fittings with q tip on checking with air. I would start there what does the build look like


I was hoping to test without water, even though it would likely be easier but messier. I did use some leak finding fluid on a several joints but never saw bubbles. Unless it was in the really hard to reach spots that I didn't test.

I really hope the radiators aren't leaking themselves. Didn't think of the CPU block o-ring, that's probably one of the last things to try since it just tightens to a stop, nothing to adjust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> do you have any ball valve or similar? If so you would be able to isolate the problem, particularly the leak from the Schrader valve itself. Also, pump up to 10-12 psi and put some kitchen soap on the fittings to check for bubbles. At 12 psi I could hear where the leak was.
Click to expand...

That gives me some ideas to test with. If it is overtightening, going to be interesting finding a happy medium between "loose" and "tight enough". I think the leak is to slow to hear it, so I'll try some things and see what happens.

Thanks all


----------



## Ceadderman

Before I fill my loop I apply a thin coat of dish soap around the blocks and seals, then fill and leak test. Dish soap will bubble wherever there is a leak. And if it's dry you don't have to worry about anything. Not even wiping it away. Works with air too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Question, what are considered the best 120mm rad fans now? (apart from the AP-15's)


----------



## longroadtrip

Getting there. Wasn't sure if I'd be able to get both rads, the D5, and the 250mm res in, but I think it's starting to come together.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> wouldn't mind the X5 either, but they're on hiatus until further notice due to their production is swamped (which is good for them)


Ohh, thought you meant to say the X5 because Pinnacle said he wanted an mATX variant


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Well the o-rings definitely flatten out when tight, I suppose that could be distorting them into a shape that loses seal.
> I was hoping to test without water, even though it would likely be easier but messier. I did use some leak finding fluid on a several joints but never saw bubbles. Unless it was in the really hard to reach spots that I didn't test.
> 
> I really hope the radiators aren't leaking themselves. Didn't think of the CPU block o-ring, that's probably one of the last things to try since it just tightens to a stop, nothing to adjust.
> That gives me some ideas to test with. If it is overtightening, going to be interesting finding a happy medium between "loose" and "tight enough". I think the leak is to slow to hear it, so I'll try some things and see what happens.
> 
> Thanks all


Fast I have a dumb question for you. Did you make sure the line from the compressor to where ever you are testing on the loop was not leaking just a thought. The compressor line has a tendency to leak like a sieve. I would think before anything in a loop.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Well the o-rings definitely flatten out when tight, I suppose that could be distorting them into a shape that loses seal.
> I was hoping to test without water, even though it would likely be easier but messier. I did use some leak finding fluid on a several joints but never saw bubbles. Unless it was in the really hard to reach spots that I didn't test.
> 
> I really hope the radiators aren't leaking themselves. Didn't think of the CPU block o-ring, that's probably one of the last things to try since it just tightens to a stop, nothing to adjust.
> That gives me some ideas to test with. If it is overtightening, going to be interesting finding a happy medium between "loose" and "tight enough". I think the leak is to slow to hear it, so I'll try some things and see what happens.
> 
> Thanks all


Just put water in it and look for leaks. I get the whole air thing, but what difference will it make? Water will show you exactly where it will leak without an extra day of air work.


----------



## Ceadderman

It will if you use dish soap at the fittings and blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It will if you use dish soap at the fittings and blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm not saying it won't. Please don't get me wrong. I just think it adds an unnecessary step to a simple fluid system. Thats just my experience.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Well the o-rings definitely flatten out when tight, I suppose that could be distorting them into a shape that loses seal.
> I was hoping to test without water, even though it would likely be easier but messier. I did use some leak finding fluid on a several joints but never saw bubbles. Unless it was in the really hard to reach spots that I didn't test.
> 
> I really hope the radiators aren't leaking themselves. Didn't think of the CPU block o-ring, that's probably one of the last things to try since it just tightens to a stop, nothing to adjust.
> That gives me some ideas to test with. If it is overtightening, going to be interesting finding a happy medium between "loose" and "tight enough". I think the leak is to slow to hear it, so I'll try some things and see what happens.
> 
> Thanks all
> 
> 
> 
> Just put water in it and look for leaks. I get the whole air thing, but what difference will it make? Water will show you exactly where it will leak without an extra day of air work.
Click to expand...

And then you can spend your time drying out components,hoping they will work again........
And don't think a fluid being non conductive will save you.....because it won't.

Where did this extra day of work come from? Air tests last a couple of hours max and you can work on leaky sections immediately,unlike water which needs draining first.

There is a reason that this is standard practice for plumbers and HVAC engineers.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And then you can spend your time drying out components,hoping they will work again........
> And don't think a fluid being non conductive will save you.....because it won't.
> 
> Where did this extra day of work come from? Air tests last a couple of hours max and you can work on leaky sections immediately,unlike water which needs draining first.
> 
> There is a reason that this is standard practice for plumbers and HVAC engineers.


Again, I get why you would use it. You're being a tad overdramatic. I just gave my opinion. The experience I had was 2 leaks that were easily found and fixed and required no extra equipment, but I'm also not building systems regularly or professionally. So there's that.


----------



## OGBeandip

So my Alphacool Nexxos XT45 came in today. If I shake it I can hear debris rattling around. Is this normal for alphacool rads?

Never had it this dirty with EK or XSPC.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> So my Alphacool Nexxos XT45 came in today. If I shake it I can hear debris rattling around. Is this normal for alphacool rads?
> 
> Never had it this dirty with EK or XSPC.


Unfortunately, dirty alphacools is quite common... lotsa flushing & radiator dance is needed with most of them.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Unfortunately, dirty alphacools is quite common... lotsa flushing & radiator dance is needed with most of them.


Alright thanks. If its the usual I guess it makes it slightly better. Was worried I got one that skipped QC.


----------



## emsj86

So what is the norm for psi pressure you want when leak testing as to not damage anything. I have (dry air) nitrogen with a regulator that I use to leak check refrigeration / hvac system. Wondering I I could use that. I would just need to make a 1/4 fitting of course. Or I could just put a barb on mini valve and hook the hose up to that. Your thoughts


----------



## RnRollie

depends on the "weakest" element in the loop...

You need to check manufacturers pages for that

For example, the popular Alphacool UT60 360 has been pressure tested by Alphacool at 2 bar (29 psi) , the Aquacomputer AMS at 0.8 bar, the Watercool HTSF2 at 5 bar.
The Watercool Heatkiller 3 CPU block at 5 bar, ..

As for fittings in general, it depends probably on the type.. barbed, compression , the length of the barb, the shape and the type of hose used. I dont know if extensive test data is available; but i can imagine that a soft, slippery tygon hose would pop out of a compression fitting faster then it would off a barb fitting.

Again, need to check manufactures pages.

Either way, i'ld refrain from using more as 50 psi









Which is why one should not leak test ones loop by attaching it to the mains tap. In certain areas waterpressure is not regulated at the intake/meter and *can* exceed 30 psi (sometimes even higher).
While +30 psi is nice to have a "massage douche", its not that good for attached appliances (hammering) , central heating system .... or PC loops







Regulated mains pressure should be 1 bar (or 15 psi) if i recall correctly.

.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So what is the norm for psi pressure you want when leak testing as to not damage anything. I have (dry air) nitrogen with a regulator that I use to leak check refrigeration / hvac system. Wondering I I could use that. I would just need to make a 1/4 fitting of course. Or I could just put a barb on mini valve and hook the hose up to that. Your thoughts


There's just no valid reason to exceed ~10 psi for a leak test . . .

Greater than that and you risk creating new problems, rather than just sleuthing out any existing ones.

If it doesn't leak air at 7 to 10 psi, it isn't going to leak coolant.

Darlene


----------



## toggLesss

It's About To Go Down
*Project Canyon rev.2 Build Log*


----------



## emsj86

Really love he sma8. I like my sm8 but one day when I have more space the sma8 will be mine. Wondering anyone has white paint fan blades for sp120. I'm debating if it will look good to leave sp120 frame black, paint fan white, and ring keep blue. Or blue fan white ring


----------



## emsj86

Deleted


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Really love he sma8. I like my sm8 but one day when I have more space the sma8 will be mine. Wondering anyone has white paint fan blades for sp120. I'm debating if it will look good to leave sp120 frame black, paint fan white, and ring keep blue. Or blue fan white ring


White blades with the blue ring on a black frame sounds like it would look really good


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> So my Alphacool Nexxos XT45 came in today. If I shake it I can hear debris rattling around. Is this normal for alphacool rads?
> .


Do they have ACOOL printed in blue on the side? Those are the newer Alphacool units and are supposedly better cleaned at the factory

I have five Alphacool radiators (2 new style, 3 old) and neither had rattling but have certainly read about it here from other users. The old style definitely should be flushed, at least with hot water, to get all the soldering resin etc. out. Hopefully your solder balls come out too?


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Do they have ACOOL printed in blue on the side? Those are the newer Alphacool units and are supposedly better cleaned at the factory
> 
> I have five Alphacool radiators (2 new style, 3 old) and neither had rattling but have certainly read about it here from other users. The old style definitely should be flushed, at least with hot water, to get all the soldering resin etc. out. Hopefully your solder balls come out too?


Yeah it has the blue branding on the side and I can hear rattling. Ill be cleaning it next week and Ill update on how it cleans out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> So my Alphacool Nexxos XT45 came in today. If I shake it I can hear debris rattling around. Is this normal for alphacool rads?
> 
> Never had it this dirty with EK or XSPC.


Rattling is solder run off,normally small balls. Common with Alphast.....cool rads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So what is the norm for psi pressure you want when leak testing as to not damage anything. I have (dry air) nitrogen with a regulator that I use to leak check refrigeration / hvac system. Wondering I I could use that. I would just need to make a 1/4 fitting of course. Or I could just put a barb on mini valve and hook the hose up to that. Your thoughts
> 
> 
> 
> *There's just no valid reason to exceed ~10 psi for a leak test . . .*
> 
> Greater than that and you risk creating new problems, rather than just sleuthing out any existing ones.
> 
> If it doesn't leak air at 7 to 10 psi, it isn't going to leak coolant.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

And this. Rads and acrylic blocks are your weakest points,rads can get blown out tubes which will ruin airflow and crush the fins without actually leaking.

10 psi is the max recommended pressure as you pointed out.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Rattling is solder run off,normally small balls. Common with Alphast.....cool rads.


I take it youre not a fan of alphacool radiators.

I thought they performed pretty well? At least from the 360mm radiator testing I saw on extreme rigs. The XT45 was one of the leading mid thickness radiators.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Again, I get why you would use it. You're being a tad overdramatic. I just gave my opinion. The experience I had was 2 leaks that were easily found and fixed and required no extra equipment, but I'm also not building systems regularly or professionally. So there's that.


Not all plumbers use that method. Think that was an overzealous leap he made to make a point.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There's just no valid reason to exceed ~10 psi for a leak test . . .
> 
> Greater than that and you risk creating new problems, rather than just sleuthing out any existing ones.
> 
> If it doesn't leak air at 7 to 10 psi, it isn't going to leak coolant.
> 
> Darlene


^this

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> 
> 
> It's About To Go Down
> *Project Canyon rev.2 Build Log*


Mmmmmmm sexiness!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Rattling is solder run off,normally small balls. Common with Alphast.....cool rads.
> 
> 
> 
> I take it youre not a fan of alphacool radiators.
> 
> I thought they performed pretty well? At least from the 360mm radiator testing I saw on extreme rigs. The XT45 was one of the leading mid thickness radiators.
Click to expand...

Im not,you are correct.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Again, I get why you would use it. You're being a tad overdramatic. I just gave my opinion. The experience I had was 2 leaks that were easily found and fixed and required no extra equipment, but I'm also not building systems regularly or professionally. So there's that.
> 
> 
> 
> *Not all plumbers use that method. Think that was an overzealous leap he made to make a point.
> *
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There's just no valid reason to exceed ~10 psi for a leak test . . .
> 
> Greater than that and you risk creating new problems, rather than just sleuthing out any existing ones.
> 
> If it doesn't leak air at 7 to 10 psi, it isn't going to leak coolant.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ^this
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> 
> 
> It's About To Go Down
> *Project Canyon rev.2 Build Log*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mmmmmmm sexiness!
Click to expand...

Lol!

I AM a plumber and its one of the most basic things they teach you. Water and heating systems are not signed off on nor commissioned without pressure test results. Perhaps if you knew what you were talking about?


----------



## Domler

@B NEGATIVEI am wondering why you do not prefer alphacool rads. I am not trying to debate. I trust and respect your opinion. I have a 360 and 240 and about to pick up another 360. If there is a reason I should switch to sr2s, then I will. If I don't need to spend $350, then I won't. If you want to pm your response, I understand. I have been watercooling for a year now and just tring to learn from the best. Thancks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Just used over 4 hours of my Morning re installing win Vista 32bit on my Laptop (That I type to yall on everyday) and Oh my goodness. Just trying to find the Wifi Driver was insane. (Not to mention, around 200 Updates INcluding Service Packs)

Anyway. Hello and I missed yall.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @B NEGATIVEI am wondering why you do not prefer alphacool rads. I am not trying to debate. I trust and respect your opinion. I have a 360 and 240 and about to pick up another 360. If there is a reason I should switch to sr2s, then I will. If I don't need to spend $350, then I won't. If you want to pm your response, I understand. I have been watercooling for a year now and just tring to learn from the best. Thancks.


I dont like the quality of finish,there are many posts in this thread alone regarding build quality and poor QC.
I also have issues with the parent company on a different product which almost destroyed a $8500 rig.....when confronted with the electrical engineers fault sheet (which I paid for) their answer was 'How is our fault?'

I source ethically. I want my money going to those that I think deserve it.


----------



## OGBeandip

Ignore this, carry on.


----------



## nycgtr

I like acool rads, just the screw size is a *****. M3 in the states has to be ordered online for the most part.


----------



## Domler

@B NEGATIVE
Thank you for the response. I am a chef and feel the same way about ethics. New rads incoming.


----------



## Gabrielzm

I was hoping OCool got things better sorted out after some improvements in the production line in terms of cleaning the rads as well as better finish. On the topic of rads, just for the record, solder runoff in the form of solder balls are not exclusive of OCOOL rads, although it certainly was perceived by part of this community as more frequent in the past in OCool rads (maybe still is...). Recently I got a ek PE 360 (in use on Grey Matter) that have that too and I could not take it out for the life of me. RMA was a no option due to no representative of EK in Brazil and customs complications. So I cleaned the best I could and put it to use hoping that the ball is too big to not be pushed in the path and obstruct the flow. So far working fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I was hoping OCool got things better sorted out after some improvements in the production line in terms of cleaning the rads as well as better finish. On the topic of rads, just for the record, solder runoff in the form of solder balls are not exclusive of OCOOL rads, although it certainly was perceived by part of this community as more frequent in the past in OCool rads (maybe still is...). Recently I got a ek PE 360 (in use on Grey Matter) that have that too and I could not take it out for the life of me. RMA was a no option due to no representative of EK in Brazil and customs complications. So I cleaned the best I could and put it to use hoping that the ball is too big to not be pushed in the path and obstruct the flow. So far working fine.


I had a ball in a HWL GTX that just tinkled around the endtank for a few years...probably still in it wherever it is......


----------



## cmhdlucky13

I wanted to share my little watercooling build with you all.

It is my first watercooling build and the first one with a focus on aesthetics.

the parts:
Asus X99 Rampage V Extreme
Intel 5820K @ 4.4Ghz
Corsair Vengeance 16GB @ 3200Mhz
Corsair 750D
EVGA GTX 980ti sc+
WD 3tb Red
Intel 750 series SSD 400gb
Asus Hyperkit
Coolermaster V1000 PSU
EK waterblocks, reservoire and tubes
Alphacool radiators 420x30 and 280x60
D5 pump and housing
EK pastel Red coolant
6x corsair AF140 Silent
2x Corsair 140 fan came with the case
Sharkoon 5.25" BayExtension
2x phobia white led strip.
Red and black sleeves and some wire pins

the pictures:






Things i would do different or still would like to change:

Not to buy the coolermaster V1000, its the loudest part of the system now and the modular gpu cables start as 6pin with 8 cables in it.
What makes sleeving harder and kinda takes away the point of a 8pin gpu connector.

The drives in the optical bay makes that part of the case not as clean as the rest. Mostly the cables.
If i think of a really nice way to mount them i might cut out the optical drive case completely.

So what do you guys think of my little build any tips of things you would have done different?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmhdlucky13*
> 
> I wanted to share my little watercooling build with you all.
> 
> It is my first watercooling build and the first one with a focus on aesthetics.
> 
> the parts:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Asus X99 Rampage V Extreme
> Intel 5820K @ 4.4Ghz
> Corsair Vengeance 16GB @ 3200Mhz
> Corsair 750D
> EVGA GTX 980ti sc+
> WD 3tb Red
> Intel 750 series SSD 400gb
> Asus Hyperkit
> Coolermaster V1000 PSU
> EK waterblocks, reservoire and tubes
> Alphacool radiators 420x30 and 280x60
> D5 pump and housing
> EK pastel Red coolant
> 6x corsair AF140 Silent
> 2x Corsair 140 fan came with the case
> Sharkoon 5.25" BayExtension
> 2x phobia white led strip.
> Red and black sleeves and some wire pins
> 
> 
> 
> the pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things i would do different or still would like to change:
> 
> Not to buy the coolermaster V1000, its the loudest part of the system now and the modular gpu cables start as 6pin with 8 cables in it.
> What makes sleeving harder and kinda takes away the point of a 8pin gpu connector.
> 
> The drives in the optical bay makes that part of the case not as clean as the rest. Mostly the cables.
> If i think of a really nice way to mount them i might cut out the optical drive case completely.
> 
> So what do you guys think of my little build any tips of things you would have done different?


Very neat and clean, you did a great job.









The only thing I would have done different is flip the fans on the top rad so they intake cooler air for outside the case to pass through the rad. This would also give you positive air pressure.


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I was hoping OCool got things better sorted out after some improvements in the production line in terms of cleaning the rads as well as better finish. On the topic of rads, just for the record, solder runoff in the form of solder balls are not exclusive of OCOOL rads, although it certainly was perceived by part of this community as more frequent in the past in OCool rads (maybe still is...). Recently I got a ek PE 360 (in use on Grey Matter) that have that too and I could not take it out for the life of me. RMA was a no option due to no representative of EK in Brazil and customs complications. So I cleaned the best I could and put it to use hoping that the ball is too big to not be pushed in the path and obstruct the flow. So far working fine.


The finish on the Alphacoool rads has improved drastically since they were first released and they are on there 5th generation (blue stckers). Flux has been minimised. But one thing that does bug me is this:

 This is the Greek Symbol for "Alpha"

 This is an "O"

So they are Alphacool rads not Ocool


----------



## Jflisk

Anyone have a couple of Noctua 140mm industrial 3000RPM on there rads and can give me an idea of the cooling gain by using them. Going to be installing these on my 280mm top rad. I have not been able to find anything yet where these are paired with WC radiator. Thanks

They should make flex straw tubbing for water cooling. Like I have a bay res and need to pull it out and put it back into fill. Something like this so it extends out and in


----------



## cmhdlucky13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Very neat and clean, you did a great job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I would have done different is flip the fans on the top rad so they intake cooler air for outside the case to pass through the rad. This would also give you positive air pressure.


Thanks, I did consider switching the top fans or the rear fan, but found the look of it this better. So for now its form over function


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> The finish on the Alphacoool rads has improved drastically since they were first released and they are on there 5th generation (blue stckers). Flux has been minimised. But one thing that does bug me is this:
> 
> This is the Greek Symbol for "Alpha"
> 
> This is an "O"
> 
> So they are Alphacool rads not Ocool


----------



## erso44

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmhdlucky13*
> 
> I wanted to share my little watercooling build with you all.
> 
> It is my first watercooling build and the first one with a focus on aesthetics.
> 
> the parts:
> Asus X99 Rampage V Extreme
> Intel 5820K @ 4.4Ghz
> Corsair Vengeance 16GB @ 3200Mhz
> Corsair 750D
> EVGA GTX 980ti sc+
> WD 3tb Red
> Intel 750 series SSD 400gb
> Asus Hyperkit
> Coolermaster V1000 PSU
> EK waterblocks, reservoire and tubes
> Alphacool radiators 420x30 and 280x60
> D5 pump and housing
> EK pastel Red coolant
> 6x corsair AF140 Silent
> 2x Corsair 140 fan came with the case
> Sharkoon 5.25" BayExtension
> 2x phobia white led strip.
> Red and black sleeves and some wire pins
> 
> the pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things i would do different or still would like to change:
> 
> Not to buy the coolermaster V1000, its the loudest part of the system now and the modular gpu cables start as 6pin with 8 cables in it.
> What makes sleeving harder and kinda takes away the point of a 8pin gpu connector.
> 
> The drives in the optical bay makes that part of the case not as clean as the rest. Mostly the cables.
> If i think of a really nice way to mount them i might cut out the optical drive case completely.
> 
> So what do you guys think of my little build any tips of things you would have done different?






your building looks:

-great
-clean

I see you got experience with the rad size because I made a mistake and bought super thick rads








All I can say is: Now you got HDD troubles.
Thats normal in this case and you´ve got only one more slot for your HDD. I lost that slot xD
How did you mount your pump? From the bottom?
And why did you mount your gpu so low?


----------



## cmhdlucky13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> 
> your building looks:
> 
> -great
> -clean
> 
> I see you got experience with the rad size because I made a mistake and bought super thick rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say is: Now you got HDD troubles.
> Thats normal in this case and you´ve got only one more slot for your HDD. I lost that slot xD
> How did you mount your pump? From the bottom?
> And why did you mount your gpu so low?


thanks, I dont really see it as HDD trouble more as not as clean as i would like it.

the GPU is in slot 3 because the Hyperkit M.2 to SFF8693 blocks slot 1. And slot 3 is the only other 16x slot.
for looks slot 2 is slightly better.

yea the pump is mounted on the bottom.


----------



## VSG

140mm Blacknoise Noiseblocker eLoops have been announced: http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/noiseblocker-it-fans/nb-eloop-series/140x140x29mm.php?lang=EN










No high speed versions though, 1400 RPM is the max here.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Well the o-rings definitely flatten out when tight, I suppose that could be distorting them into a shape that loses seal.
> I was hoping to test without water, even though it would likely be easier but messier. I did use some leak finding fluid on a several joints but never saw bubbles. Unless it was in the really hard to reach spots that I didn't test.
> 
> I really hope the radiators aren't leaking themselves. Didn't think of the CPU block o-ring, that's probably one of the last things to try since it just tightens to a stop, nothing to adjust.
> That gives me some ideas to test with. If it is overtightening, going to be interesting finding a happy medium between "loose" and "tight enough". I think the leak is to slow to hear it, so I'll try some things and see what happens.
> 
> Thanks all
> 
> 
> 
> Fast I have a dumb question for you. Did you make sure the line from the compressor to where ever you are testing on the loop was not leaking just a thought. The compressor line has a tendency to leak like a sieve. I would think before anything in a loop.
Click to expand...

That's a non-issue. The air leak testing gauge is just pressurized by hose through a schrader valve and then it stays attached to the loop. So I only have to make sure that the leak tester is fine.

I did find the problem though, 2 of the stop fittings on the end tank were loose. The 2 that I couldn't tighten very well by hand because the rad was already installed when I tried to do it...









Other possible issues looks like over-tightening, distorting the o-rings, so I am going to order some flat washer-style o-rings that will work better with some of my fittings. The flat edges will have a lot more surface area to seal than the round ones and should hold up better to tightening. What's another $20 down the endless watercooling hobby drain?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> That's a non-issue. The air leak testing gauge is just pressurized by hose through a schrader valve and then it stays attached to the loop. So I only have to make sure that the leak tester is fine.
> 
> I did find the problem though, 2 of the stop fittings on the end tank were loose. The 2 that I couldn't tighten very well by hand because the rad was already installed when I tried to do it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other possible issues looks like over-tightening, distorting the o-rings, so I am going to order some flat washer-style o-rings that will work better with some of my fittings. The flat edges will have a lot more surface area to seal than the round ones and should hold up better to tightening. What's another $20 down the endless watercooling hobby drain?


Glade you figured it out. You mean the watercooling whirlpool


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> The finish on the Alphacoool rads has improved drastically since they were first released and they are on there 5th generation (blue stckers). Flux has been minimised. But one thing that does bug me is this:
> 
> This is the Greek Symbol for "Alpha"
> 
> This is an "O"
> 
> So they are Alphacool rads not Ocool










Yeah, point taken. However you ought to agree that the logo used on rads and fittings looks more like an "O" than an alpha:














BTW AT-Pascal can you comment on the improvements made to clean the rads in production line? That info would be useful beside satisfying my curiosity


----------



## emsj86

Roughed In too part. Bottom part will be shaved to fit flush. Coming together though. Other than me drilling through my finger nail.


----------



## SteezyTN

Coulnt be anymore happier.



I'm still waiting on the ETA, but I hope its tomorrow (Caselabs to my house is 6 hours)


----------



## emsj86

Congrats man. Wish I had bought my sm8 new but still very happy with it


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 140mm Blacknoise Noiseblocker eLoops have been announced: http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/noiseblocker-it-fans/nb-eloop-series/140x140x29mm.php?lang=EN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No high speed versions though, 1400 RPM is the max here.


Im excited for this one!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Yeah it has the blue branding on the side and I can hear rattling. Ill be cleaning it next week and Ill update on how it cleans out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Rattling is solder run off,normally small balls. Common with Alphast.....cool rads.


One of the alphacool rads I purchased had(still has lol) a rattle when I was cleaning it. Thought it was flux or the like from reading the problems on the forum. Come to find out it was simply the inner metal screw guard that was loose.


----------



## Trestles126

Custom cover my buddy made out of acrylic came out perfect. Recon betfinex controller will be mounted in the cut out and the EK logo will be backlit in baby blue. It was lazer etched with the octagons to match the betfenix spectre pro fans


----------



## sinnedone

Very nice looking there there @Trestles126


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Custom cover my buddy made out of acrylic came out perfect. Recon betfinex controller will be mounted in the cut out and the EK logo will be backlit in baby blue. It was lazer etched with the octagons to match the betfenix spectre pro fans


That's awesome! Great work


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Custom cover my buddy made out of acrylic came out perfect. Recon betfinex controller will be mounted in the cut out and the EK logo will be backlit in baby blue. It was lazer etched with the octagons to match the betfenix spectre pro fans


Drooling here


----------



## deadwidesmile

That's boastfully beautiful


----------



## 4WDBenio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 140mm Blacknoise Noiseblocker eLoops have been announced: http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/noiseblocker-it-fans/nb-eloop-series/140x140x29mm.php?lang=EN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No high speed versions though, 1400 RPM is the max here.


darnit...I just purchased 8x industrial Nocs..


----------



## Trestles126

Lil more work done fan controller in. I actually have two I had made one with the thick gray etching and another with just honeycomb lines engraved not sure what one I'm gonna use. The one I currently have in may be a bit to busy for my likin


----------



## Cakewalk_S

I think I'm going to need to clean out my AIO modded cooler here very soon. It's been almost 2 years without a flush or fluid change... Running just distilled water + antifreeze which works great! I've noticed I have slightly higher temps so I figured it's time to tare it down and clean out the micro fins on the block, the pump and rad all cleaned out. Is the consensus still to use hydrogen peroxide/vinegar/lemon juice in the rad/pump block? Figured it be the best place to ask here.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Lil more work done fan controller in. I actually have two I had made one with the thick gray etching and another with just honeycomb lines engraved not sure what one I'm gonna use. The one I currently have in may be a bit to busy for my likin


I love that. It's definitely busy but, not in a bad way at all.


----------



## emsj86

For people with caselabs cases. Our you using filters. I see the demci filters but is there a way to mount a filter for the flex bays that won't require the removal if the flex bay to get to it. So e pics of how they look will help too thanks. Also looks wise should I keep the sm8 castor wheels which makes things easier or go for the chrome or white case feet mncptech


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For people with caselabs cases. Our you using filters. I see the demci filters but is there a way to mount a filter for the flex bays that won't require the removal if the flex bay to get to it. So e pics of how they look will help too thanks. Also looks wise should I keep the sm8 castor wheels which makes things easier or go for the chrome or white case feet mncptech


I believe you have to remove the front panel, and you can just go underneath the flex bay and just slid it out. I placed my order for my SMa8 over at Demcifilter, but somehow my order got screwed up and didn't let me pay. So I decided I'm going to wait and see how the dust is for the first month, and then decide if I really need the filters.


----------



## emsj86

Yea I was kinda thinking of doing the same thing. The too cover is no problem I just hide not under neath and can be popper off and clean fast. I think I might past as I think it will hurt the looks but like you said of dust becomes an issue than I can always get some


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For people with caselabs cases. Our you using filters. I see the demci filters but is there a way to mount a filter for the flex bays that won't require the removal if the flex bay to get to it. So e pics of how they look will help too thanks. Also looks wise should I keep the sm8 castor wheels which makes things easier or go for the chrome or white case feet mncptech


I have no filters, Just cleaned mine Yesterday after Over a Month of Use.

Got a White Paper Towel with Windex On it to clean the Backplates and blew out the midplate that had a little dust on it.

Took No MOre than 5min.

tCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have no filters, Just cleaned mine Yesterday after Over a Month of Use.
> 
> Got a White Paper Towel with Windex On it to clean the Backplates and blew out the midplate that had a little dust on it.
> 
> Took No MOre than 5min.
> 
> tCO


How were the radiators?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> How were the radiators?


Whoa. Just a dusting. No break down of Loop.

TCO

EDIT: Realizing you meant dust in the Rads. No, I would have to Take apart a substantial amount of the Loop and Fans to get to Rads.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Whoa. Just a dusting. No break down of Loop.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Realizing you meant dust in the Rads. No, I would have to Take apart a substantial amount of the Loop and Fans to get to Rads.


Man just get in there with a shop vac on blow. Works wonders.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Man just get in there with a shop vac on blow. Works wonders.


I was thinking a can of compressed air in order to blow the dust out of the rads with out removing the fans.









TCO


----------



## emsj86

Might just invest in a data vac down the line. Think I'll order case feet instead of the filters. I can always buy them later if it's a problem


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Might just invest in a data vac down the line. Think I'll order case feet instead of the filters. I can always buy them later if it's a problem












TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Rather shop vac it myself. Canned air costs too bloody much. I figured my usage out to about $800 +/- for just my system alone. That's if I kept it under lock and key behind a locked door with armed security to keep my cans from my 14yo daughter. She seems to think what's ours is hers and hers is hers.

I finally got my tube of Icy Hot back after she left it in a crumpled mess on her floor. Girls are filthy creatures at that age.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was thinking a can of compressed air in order to blow the dust out of the rads with out removing the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You need more powa!

Maybe your leaf blower???


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was thinking a can of compressed air in order to blow the dust out of the rads with out removing the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> You need more powa!
> 
> Maybe your leaf blower???
Click to expand...











lol


----------



## theFizz

Hi guys, Im close to being done with my first build. I just installed the Corsair H75 and I have a question I can't find the answer to. How Do I tell if the pump is on since their is no light or anything? I expected to hear the bubbles or water or something upon first starting. Also the installation was a pain since the Mobo mount would be slightly loose after i tighten all the screws, felt like i needed rubber washers or something to make sure it is secure. Since then I have tightened each of the thumb screws with a screw driver and it seems as though the pump is secure. The pump was taken on and off the cooler also several rimes because I could not get it to mount properly without one of the corners being loose. Do you think that I may need to remove it again and add new thermal paste?? How would I know. Thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Whoa. Just a dusting. No break down of Loop.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Realizing you meant dust in the Rads. No, I would have to Take apart a substantial amount of the Loop and Fans to get to Rads.
> 
> 
> 
> Man just get in there with a shop vac on blow. Works wonders.
Click to expand...

At this point I will say I clean mine with a 110PSI compressor line......dust is not a problem.









Always remember to chock the fans if you are blowing rads as the voltage produced when it spins can ruin a mobo header or controller. Always leave the rig hooked to the mains but off as static charges build up quick so a good earth is recommended.


----------



## Jflisk

Harbor freight is my friend they had a 100PSI compressor for 50.00. I keep finding new uses for it every day.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *At this point I will say I clean mine with a 110PSI compressor line*......dust is not a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always remember to chock the fans if you are blowing rads as the voltage produced when it spins can ruin a mobo header or controller. Always leave the rig hooked to the mains but off as static charges build up quick so a good earth is recommended.


showoff









Don't usually leave mine plugged in since dusting is outside duty but Ill remember that for next time.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Harbor freight is my friend they had a 100PSI compressor for 50.00. I keep finding new uses for it every day.


Harbor freight... Best cheap crap ever. lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Harbor freight is my friend they had a 100PSI compressor for 50.00. I keep finding new uses for it every day.


If you want to spray with it,make sure your gun CFM is 70% lower than the CFM of the compressor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *At this point I will say I clean mine with a 110PSI compressor line*......dust is not a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always remember to chock the fans if you are blowing rads as the voltage produced when it spins can ruin a mobo header or controller. Always leave the rig hooked to the mains but off as static charges build up quick so a good earth is recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> showoff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't usually leave mine plugged in since dusting is outside duty but Ill remember that for next time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Harbor freight is my friend they had a 100PSI compressor for 50.00. I keep finding new uses for it every day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Harbor freight... Best cheap crap ever. lol
Click to expand...

On the flip of the coin,my compressor is 98dB so I dont do it very often.......


----------



## Ceadderman

Finally will have a Garage!









Moving in beginning of September and all tools an my modding will be done in the Garage. So sayeth the little woman. At 4'11" she can intimidate, balieve dat. An she's Irish too.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hoping to get a garage or at least a space I can turn into my cave/workshop


----------



## fast_fate

What a nice little package








Currently in the Thermal Chamber


----------



## VSG

Nice picture too


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nice picture too


Cheers Mate









I like this one, even though I can't use it coz of the caliper end in the frame for reason unknown


----------



## VSG

Lol what were you trying to do there? I kinda like the contrast myself.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Cheers Mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this one, even though I can't use it coz of the caliper end in the frame for reason unknown
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hmmm.......... speaking of fittings & machinery









i just got myself a mini lathe today with the intention of making my own fittings









here is the first attempt







pretty crude i know..... but i did this with the limited tooling i have for it atm. as im waiting on the bits on bobs to arrive. i just wanted to mess with it hehe.





i made this by bonding 3 pieces of 10mm acrylic together.... as i dont have any rods or anything yet. so it was just something to play with.

solid copper fittings anyone









also do you think just a push fitting is ok? like the old ek fittings.......or should i do it with a threaded lock & knurled nut?


----------



## VSG

Push fittings for hard tube? It will be ok, just get the ID and O-ring seal right.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Push fittings for hard tube? It will be ok, just get the ID and O-ring seal right.


seems like the easier option i suppose









Ive got the dimensions for the o-rings etc so no real probs there.... im still undecided on a colour scheme yet for my next build.









lets just say ive got copper or stainless in my head?


----------



## TPham

My new coding and gaming rig. I wanted to liquid cool my GPU also but it was a GTX 780 and I know that the new Pascal Nvidia card is coming out next year so I decided to wait and not spend money on a GPU block


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My new coding and gaming rig. I wanted to liquid cool my GPU also but it was a GTX 780 and I know that the new Pascal Nvidia card is coming out next year so I decided to wait and not spend money on a GPU block
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice clean build









and welcome to ocn


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> All I can say is: Now you got HDD troubles.
> Thats normal in this case and you´ve got only one more slot for your HDD. I lost that slot xD


I solved this problem with m.2
I have no need for anymore than 480gb. And now I don't have to run SATA power or data cables whatsoever. Plus it covers up the word "hero" on the mobo.


----------



## cmhdlucky13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I solved this problem with m.2
> I have no need for anymore than 480gb. And now I don't have to run SATA power or data cables whatsoever. Plus it covers up the word "hero" on the mobo.


That wouldn't work for me as im using my m.2 for the intel 750 serie ssd. and 400gb really isnt enough.


----------



## Benjiw

I feel really dumb for asking this but, I want to mount my HDD to some aluminium sheet lying down so the PCB would be facing the aluminium. I this possible without damaging the hard drive? I don't think it will in theory but i'm just double checking.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I feel really dumb for asking this but, I want to mount my HDD to some aluminium sheet lying down so the PCB would be facing the aluminium. I this possible without damaging the hard drive? I don't think it will in theory but i'm just double checking.


As long as the aluminum isn't touching the pcb, I don't see there being any problem.


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm currently taking down my loop and trying to salvage the coolant. This way I don't have to spend an additional $40. I'm surprised with how dirty my loop is. I ran mayhems blitz part one and two, and I'm getting all this gunk out of the Pastel Ice White. The coolant is still a nice white. Almost as if it's brand new


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> seems like the easier option i suppose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ive got the dimensions for the o-rings etc so no real probs there.... im still undecided on a colour scheme yet for my next build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lets just say ive got copper or stainless in my head?


Copper for sure, would be different from most options.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I feel really dumb for asking this but, I want to mount my HDD to some aluminium sheet lying down so the PCB would be facing the aluminium. I this possible without damaging the hard drive? I don't think it will in theory but i'm just double checking.


What hard drive PCB? Have you removed it from the standard 3.5" enclosure?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I feel really dumb for asking this but, I want to mount my HDD to some aluminium sheet lying down so the PCB would be facing the aluminium. I this possible without damaging the hard drive? I don't think it will in theory but i'm just double checking.


you could use standoffs to give some clearance? screw the thread into hdd & then fix to the standoff thread.

they do nickel ones here

http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/#id_category=100335&page=1&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC

or mooch on ebay for some


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Copper for sure, would be different from most options.
> 
> What hard drive PCB? Have you removed it from the standard 3.5" enclosure?


No, on the back of the hard drive you can see the PCB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> you could use standoffs to give some clearance? screw the thread into hdd & then fix to the standoff thread.
> 
> they do nickel ones here
> 
> http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/#id_category=100335&page=1&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC
> 
> or mooch on ebay for some


Oh my! You're alive? I sent you a PM ages ago and you never got back to me I thought you had disappeared or something lmao and true I wonder if I have some spare.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Added the Aurora 2. Bottle of Make was 6/20/15.







Uploading a vid as we speak.

TCO


----------



## Archea47

Awesome micro build TCO!

Only suggestion: I might try using the 24 pin cable combs and cutting them down to size for the GPUs rather than having separate combs for the two runs


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Awesome micro build TCO!
> 
> Only suggestion: I might try using the 24 pin cable combs and cutting them down to size for the GPUs rather than having separate combs for the two runs


A 14 pin comb would be better


----------



## Jflisk

I am thinking about grabbing a Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF. Is silver better then copper and does anyone own one of these .Thanks in advance

My XSPC raystorm has almost had it. I had to redo the gasket the last time I rebuild it and there is still some discoloration around where the gasket seals.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The Kuplex did great on my 4790k and looked great, but I have the Delrin version.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the Aurora 2. Bottle of Make was 6/20/15.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploading a vid as we speak.
> 
> TCO


the rooms to go audio ad overlayed on your video was annoying, but kind of worked i must say, hehe.

sweet build, but seems kind of loud, or maybe it was just me...


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My new coding and gaming rig. I wanted to liquid cool my GPU also but it was a GTX 780 and I know that the new *Pascal Nvidia card* is coming out next year so I decided to wait and not spend money on a GPU block


Don't forget about the AMD Arctic Islands, Greenland card.








Nice clean loop, good job!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I am thinking about grabbing a Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF. Is silver better then copper and does anyone own one of these .Thanks in advance
> 
> My XSPC raystorm has almost had it. I had to redo the gasket the last time I rebuild it and there is still some discoloration around where the gasket seals.


Did you take a picture of the block before you clean it? I did not open my raystorm block yet though. I think I should next time I pull down my loop.


----------



## derickwm

Had the quick build in a PC-08 at IDF!





































Off to PAX Prime next! And once I get it home I'll do a proper photo shoot


----------



## Jflisk

Did you take a picture of the block before you clean it? I did not open my raystorm block yet though. I think I should next time I pull down my loop.[/quote]

These are the pictures I took. This about after 2 yrs of use . So yea I guess they should be cleaned at some point.













You just need to make sure the top goes back in the same relationship to the bottom and make sure it does not leak when you put it back together as I almost learned the hard way.


----------



## Recr3ational

Okay, I don't know if you guys remembered I was making a rad box or not.

I had a CD rack the same as this and used the wood so I didn't have to spend money lol.









I was wondering if you guys could help me. Can I cut the unused cables from the PSU and have it still work?
All I need is the 24 pin and the molex cables.
I bought the PSU for £4 so it's not a loss.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I feel really dumb for asking this but, I want to mount my HDD to some aluminium sheet lying down so the PCB would be facing the aluminium. I this possible without damaging the hard drive? I don't think it will in theory but i'm just double checking.


If the sheet is thick enough so it doesnt easily bend and touch the PCB, you should be fine.

But.... WHY?
You'll basically be closing off the PCB and motor from any airflow, and that might or might not make a big difference in the operating temp of your harddrive.... If the drive is mounted metal-to-metal then some of the "heat" will be dissipated through its casing into the touching (PC case) cage. If it is NOT touching any metal (ie suspended in rubber blocks or with shoelaces) all of the drive cooling has to happen by air flowing over the drives encasement. Blocking off the motor a PCB is not helping in that situation.

Now, if your harddrives are reporting somewhere between 25°C and 35°C , thats perfectly fine.

If after bolting it to the alu sheet it reports +50 °C ... its not going to be around for very long anymore.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I am thinking about grabbing a Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF. Is silver better then copper and does anyone own one of these .Thanks in advance
> 
> My XSPC raystorm has almost had it. I had to redo the gasket the last time I rebuild it and there is still some discoloration around where the gasket seals.


ohh yeahh.. the stirling silver is definitely better... but is it good enough to justify almost triple the price? Its not that it triples the heat transfer.

I *think* B-neg had one, or at least he knows somebody that had/has one


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ohh yeahh.. the stirling silver is definitely better... but is it good enough to justify almost triple the price? Its not that it triples the heat transfer.
> 
> I *think* B-neg had one, or at least he knows somebody that had/has one


That is exactly the reason why I was asking. Is the price justifiable (any advantages) for the silver if not I would just be happy with the standard block.


----------



## RnRollie

well somebody did a review back in 2011 or 2012... and think the conclusion was that it does shave off a bit especially under load compared to its copper counterparts.
But you'ld better invest in more radiator for the money, as more radiator will make a bigger overall difference

If only i could find that review again. (might have been a French or German site)

Now, if you are overclocking to within an inch of its life while using chilled liquid and a metal liquid tim and you really need those last 2-3°C more to get to the price... well then...

Its difficult, everybody has their opinion on it








Rationally speaking... well.. then no its not worth it.... but if everybody was rational, everybody would be driving a Dacia Sandero or a Toyota Corolla or something sensible like that.









Me, i think it is worth it..
it IS a very good performer, beats almost any other block (at the time) and gives a ton of bragging rights.... and yet i didn't buy one (yet), although it has been at more as one occasion on my shopping list. And being bumped off because i try to not go more as 25% over my planned budget and the difference just buys an extra rad or fittings or stuff.... but maybe next year , whatever comes after Skylake


----------



## emsj86

I believe you can cut the psu cables. But them need to be sealed as to not short somehow. Whether it's wire nuts or rubber heatshrink of some sort.


----------



## VSG

Hardware Labs has the SR2 MP product page up on their website: http://www.hardwarelabs.com/sr2/index.php

I imagine retail availability will be very soon now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Another 101?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1570491/paintbox-101/0_20#post_24324329


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Did you take a picture of the block before you clean it? I did not open my raystorm block yet though. I think I should next time I pull down my loop.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> These are the pictures I took. This about after 2 yrs of use . So yea I guess they should be cleaned at some point.






You just need to make sure the top goes back in the same relationship to the bottom and make sure it does not leak when you put it back together as I almost learned the hard way.[/quote]

What did you use to clean your block/rad? I've been looking and it looks like vinegar+salt, baking soda+water seem to be good combos. I've been running distilled water + antifreeze for 2 years in both my modded AIO H60 coolers. They both have 240 rads on them. The GPU seems to be working perfect, no increase in temps or anything. The CPU probably needs it...


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> 
> You just need to make sure the top goes back in the same relationship to the bottom and make sure it does not leak when you put it back together as I almost learned the hard way.


What did you use to clean your block/rad? I've been looking and it looks like vinegar+salt, baking soda+water seem to be good combos. I've been running distilled water + antifreeze for 2 years in both my modded AIO H60 coolers. They both have 240 rads on them. The GPU seems to be working perfect, no increase in temps or anything. The CPU probably needs it...[/quote]

I used ketchup and a tooth brush. Dont know if there's any better ways but it worked for me.Put the ketchup on the staining/gunk let it sit for 15 min the brushed it with the tooth brush. Cleaned it off with regular water. Waited for it to dry - put it Back together. I had my pump and res out of my system at the time created a mini loop to test for leaks. Think on the first go I had the orientation wrong. The seal looks like the bottom was flat against the top(but it wasnt) or the seal rolled a little.It was like the smallest leak - kept rubbing it hoped it would go away. Took it back apart checked the orientation put it back together tested again with my mini loop. Let it run for 3 hrs to test it. Have not had a problem since.


----------



## AlienPrime173




----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I am thinking about grabbing a Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos HF. Is silver better then copper and does anyone own one of these .Thanks in advance
> 
> My XSPC raystorm has almost had it. I had to redo the gasket the last time I rebuild it and there is still some discoloration around where the gasket seals.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you take a picture of the block before you clean it? I did not open my raystorm block yet though. I think I should next time I pull down my loop.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> These are the pictures I took. This about after 2 yrs of use . So yea I guess they should be cleaned at some point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You just need to make sure the top goes back in the same relationship to the bottom and make sure it does not leak when you put it back together as I almost learned the hard way.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips.


----------



## VSG

PPCs discount:
Quote:


> Now that the kids are finally heading back in school we can get back to business! The business of modding and watercooling our PC's! We have new arrivals coming every day including some of the best watercooling parts you can use. Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend $50 get 7% off: "SCHOOL15-7"
> Spend $250 get 8.5% off: "SCHOOL15-8.5"
> Spend over $500 get 10% off: "SCHOOL15-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 21st through August 28th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Ceadderman

Blast! Looks like I will have to be content with good ole ocn55.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

OCN55 is only valid on orders over $60-65 I thought?


----------



## Ceadderman

Well since I will be spending in the vicinity of a grand on the parts I am getting from PPCs, I think that discount is appropriate. I have a $450+ order in my cart. Just missing that 10% coupon by 6 days. Had to put off the order again. Otherwise I wouldn't hesitate to use the back to school coupon.
But my daughter's school supplies come first.









School for her starts on the 3rd of September which is why I am so sad. I coulda got her stuff at the beginning of the month but the Fred Meyer's sale forces me to get it tonite or tomorrow. Sunday is back to regular prices.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Ah I get it, your priorities are right


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> OCN55 is only valid on orders over $60-65 I thought?


What is the percentage off for OCN55?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> What is the percentage off for OCN55?


5.5%


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> 5.5%


Thanks.

Any other discount codes I should know of for watercooling?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> 5.5%
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Any other discount codes I should know of for watercooling?
Click to expand...

If you ever order from Aquatuning they have similar coupons available around 5% off. They have it posted in their vendor page.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Swapped my 2x 780-Ti's for 2x 980-Ti's, but I'm still waiting for the EK-Blocks + EK-Backplates:


----------



## Jflisk

Holy moly - The Noctua Industrials are loud at 3000RPM but they are the bomb on a radiator. The only thing that stinks is they don't go below 1400RPM 5V but I can hardly hear them at that point. My temps are way down like crazy down. I think I should have went with 2000 RPM though. That's what My aqua computer keeps them at full pelt. My window shade is blowing with them at 2000RPM at 3000 RPM they move. These are the 140mm versions on a 280 rad. considering grabbing the 120MM versions for my monsta 240.Had to make the PWM 4 pins into 3 Pin non PWM for my Aquacomputer.I don't praise much and much don't wow me but these are WOW.


----------



## RnRollie

So, you use PWM fans and voltage control them? That seems like a waste of money.. and you wont be able to get them running at lowest speed , as you might have noticed


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> So, you use PWM fans and voltage control them? That seems like a waste of money.. and you wont be able to get them running at lowest speed , as you might have noticed


I don't know about all that the aquacomputer can get the pretty low. The only problem it only has one PWM fan header. So I had to go for the second best option.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I don't know about all that the aquacomputer can get the pretty low. The only problem it only has one PWM fan header. So I had to go for the second best option.


If you run them off PWM you can get them down to 300PM for the 2000rpm models and 500rpm for the 3000rpm models


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> So, you use PWM fans and voltage control them? That seems like a waste of money.. and you wont be able to get them running at lowest speed , as you might have noticed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know about all that the aquacomputer can get the pretty low. The only problem it only has one PWM fan header. So I had to go for the second best option.
Click to expand...

Using voltage to control a PWM fan is usually bad for the fan, they aren't meant to be run like that. That may be why you can't spin them down very much also.


----------



## Jflisk

Can 1 PWM header spin 2 fans down though. have not looked this on up yet if so I can get a 4 pin to 2 fan connector. If everyone thinks that will work ill pick one up. Thanks


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Can 1 PWM header spin 2 fans down though. have not looked this on up yet if so I can get a 4 pin to 2 fan connector. If everyone thinks that will work ill pick one up. Thanks


yeah that works. ive got 11 fans running off of one PWM header right now.

Noctua Industrials that adjust between 600 and 1300
RPM depending on temps.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Can 1 PWM header spin 2 fans down though. have not looked this on up yet if so I can get a 4 pin to 2 fan connector. If everyone thinks that will work ill pick one up. Thanks


Absolutely, there is a general known limit of around 8 fans per PWM header to be reliably controlled. *Though more or less can be controlled depending on the fans and PWM source.

Really cheap solution is just a simple cable like this, http://www.performance-pcs.com/akasa-pwm-fan-splitter-cable-15cm.html
or for a few more fans, http://www.performance-pcs.com/akasa-pwm-splitter-smart-fan-cable.html
or for many the go-to solution for an 8 way split are the Swiftech splitters, http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Absolutely, there is a general known limit of around 8 fans per PWM header to be reliably controlled. *Though more or less can be controlled depending on the fans and PWM source.
> 
> Really cheap solution is just a simple cable like this, http://www.performance-pcs.com/akasa-pwm-fan-splitter-cable-15cm.html
> or for a few more fans, http://www.performance-pcs.com/akasa-pwm-splitter-smart-fan-cable.html
> or for many the go-to solution for an 8 way split are the Swiftech splitters, http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html


Can vouch for the swiftech splitter. I use 3 in my system


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Absolutely, there is a general known limit of around 8 fans per PWM header to be reliably controlled. *Though more or less can be controlled depending on the fans and PWM source.
> 
> Really cheap solution is just a simple cable like this, http://www.performance-pcs.com/akasa-pwm-fan-splitter-cable-15cm.html
> or for a few more fans, http://www.performance-pcs.com/akasa-pwm-splitter-smart-fan-cable.html
> or for many the go-to solution for an 8 way split are the Swiftech splitters, http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html


Got it on order. Thanks again


----------



## OGBeandip

I just ordered 24 EK Vardars. That was one hell of a bill.

Anyone have any experience with the new 140mm ER fans?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I bet it was, I was looking at ordering about the same amount back in March but settled for SP120's (mainly got all mine second hand to save where I could)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I just ordered 24 EK Vardars. That was one hell of a bill.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the new 140mm ER fans?


Check EK Facebook page


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I just ordered 24 EK Vardars. That was one hell of a bill.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the new 140mm ER fans?


I just put some in. They are really solid built, quiet at low speeds, and move tons of air when maxed out. l I got the F2s. I'm getting noise from the pwm signal (sounds like coil whine), but i think it's my home made splitter. I ordered a Gelid four way splitter and will see if that eliminates the noise.

Edit: One issue I have is how short the cables are. They are only 30cm. So, any long runs you will need extenders. I'm not sure how that compares to other high end rad fans.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

EK vardar or the NB eloops for XTX360?

Can`t seem to find a answer after googling all over the place, so i guess i can ask here!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> EK vardar or the NB eloops for XTX360?
> 
> Can`t seem to find a answer after googling all over the place, so i guess i can ask here!


Vardar.

Oh wait, Eloops.

Opps, what's your goal exactly?


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Vardar.
> 
> Oh wait, Eloops.
> 
> Opps, what's your goal exactly?


Cooling the radiator, duh







(jk)

Just want the best fan`s for my radiator really, i dont know which to choose, and since they cost 21£ each here in Norway i am only going to buy one set, not more for testing purposes


----------



## kl6mk6

I just got my 4 x Vardar F2-140s in and I have them hooked to my PSU, but sharing the pwm signal from my mobo's cpu header. I am having an issue when I have all four plugged in they produce an audible whine from the pwm signal. The volume of the whine decreases with each fan I unplug. I'm not sure the best option to eliminate this noise. Does the signal need to be amplified or smoothed. I can build a circuit, i just need to know the best proven route. Thanks for any help.


----------



## emsj86

Some progress not finished but slowly getting it all in place.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Some progress not finished but slowly getting it all in place.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Some progress not finished but slowly getting it all in place.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Some progress not finished but slowly getting it all in place.


That is a nice case. Classic toy collector also by the look of things.

I don't know what the heck that just was but it quoted 3 times .


----------



## emsj86

Thank you. Yup. Mainly Lionel trains. Most passed down from my dad and his dad.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Some progress not finished but slowly getting it all in place.


Very nice I just did the same thing with my nova. Did u have a easy time putting it in? I find once I got my fittings and tubes ran its a real pain ha ha I'll probably have to take the back panel off the case to get it in


----------



## emsj86

Mine is two separate pieces on purpose. That's what is making it hard because I have two flat alum. Pieces running left to right to mount the vertical piece and it has to be offset in order to line up with the horizontal mid plate. I did this so I can have it either connected with Velcro or magnetic strips so it can be popped on and off to allow to reach the bottom for tubing, cables and such. Seemed a lot easier but getting it to look nice and line up with the offset is not easy. Or at least for me it's not. Yours is a lot better looking than mine for sure. Funny how we have similar style cables, and ideas for pump and fan control


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Cooling the radiator, duh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (jk)
> 
> Just want the best fan`s for my radiator really, i dont know which to choose, and since they cost 21£ each here in Norway i am only going to buy one set, not more for testing purposes


Well, looking for the best fan is a relative topic.









But to just answer your question based on your choices, they are both good fans. But from reviews and user testaments, the Vardars has more positive going for them.

NB eloops has been having some reported tendencies to make noises on horizontal position on a rad. Esp on pull.


----------



## SteezyTN

What would you guys think of something like this pump wise? (My tumb looks very weird haha)


----------



## KShirza1

980Ti ready for new build!

[BUILD LOG] Cs-X Project - Caselabs S8S ( X99, 980Ti, Haswell-E soft tube build)


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> PPCs discount:
> 
> ...snip...
> 
> Spend $50 get 7% off: "SCHOOL15-7"
> Spend $250 get 8.5% off: "SCHOOL15-8.5"
> Spend over $500 get 10% off: "SCHOOL15-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 21st through August 28th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


Gah! Another sale, another Performance PCs spend-a-thon. If I had planned properly, my three orders this weekend should have combined for a 10% discount. But my planning skillz suxors.

Maybe this build, I'll have the patience to post a log... and maybe monkeys will fly out of my ...


----------



## Archea47

I really need to learn how to use this camera ...

EK 3K Vardars, CaseLabs S8 drop-in rad mount top, 10mm AT pushfits


----------



## BrjSan

Plz let me ask this here







... allow me to slip this question ......

From experience, Which one is *more quite*, Corsair AX1200i or HX1200i?


----------



## surfinchina

Total noob,
First build watercooling
Spent a day on this.
Just noticing I'm getting thermal paste all over the keyboard haha.

I've got:
GA X58a UD3
Xeon X5690 at 4.4 at the mo, it's running way cool at 65 deg C under load, so room to move, although CPU volts are high at 1.4.

Radiator is EK coolstream WE.
I got this because it JUST fitted. I wanted a fully raidiatored up at the front look
Feeding this is 3 x Noctua industrials
Standard EK pump combo

The R9 280x OC isn't hooked up.
I do CAD so major CPU work and major GPU memory and speed, but not a heap of work for it - just spinning around models.

What I like!
The radiator. The blue. the nickel EK evo block
The F.D. Define S. What a great case to build in with no HD boxes to work around.

What I don't like.
The acrylic! Really hard to put in and now I can't change cpu's without emptying the thing. Never mind.

One serious question.
I hooked it up to a Corsair commander mini and forgot to ramp up the pump, so it got a bit hot. All good. But before I thought about the pump speed I took off the block.
Only about 1/4 of the thermal paste had actually made contact with the block / CPU.
How do you even this up?


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well, looking for the best fan is a relative topic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But to just answer your question based on your choices, they are both good fans. But from reviews and user testaments, the Vardars has more positive going for them.
> 
> NB eloops has been having some reported tendencies to make noises on horizontal position on a rad. Esp on pull.


Will go for the Vardar then. My rad is positioned horizontally. Thanks 1+ rep


----------



## sdmf74

So this is a common thing with eloops huh? I thought it was just me. I can confirm, I like my eloops but they do make noise
at anything above 1500rpms on top rad push pull.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> So this is a common thing with eloops huh? I thought it was just me. I can confirm, I like my eloops but they do make noise
> at anything above 1500rpms on top rad push pull.


NB-eLoops should/need to have shrouds when installed as Pull fans on a radiator (heat-sink also I guess)

From the FAQ on the BlackNoise website.

"_When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?_"
"_This is due to aerodynamics, *simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm*, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessoires) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimized for._"


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> So this is a common thing with eloops huh? I thought it was just me. I can confirm, I like my eloops but they do make noise
> at anything above 1500rpms on top rad push pull.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1449360/nb-eloops-noise-when-in-a-pull-or-push-pull-configuration


----------



## mordocai rp

does anyone have a picture of what a laing ddc /mcp35x 4pin wiring should look like? I feel I might have hooked it back up wrong after sleeving because the pump is not turning back on.


----------



## sdmf74

Thanks, thats fairly close to what mine looks like, minus the shrouds of course and mine is exhasting air. I wonder if
5-10mm is necessary or if by just moving the fans to the outside of the case would help?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> does anyone have a picture of what a laing ddc /mcp35x 4pin wiring should look like? I feel I might have hooked it back up wrong after sleeving because the pump is not turning back on.


Here yah go... i just sleeved my 4-pin but you can still the color layout.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Plz let me ask this here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... allow me to slip this question ......
> 
> From experience, Which one is *more quite*, Corsair AX1200i or HX1200i?


Not a watetcooling topic. But honestly I would say go with an EVGA at this time. Corsair changed their rail setups and their Surge tech. Combined with any manufacturer changes at the Motherboard (ASUS) it can kill your hardware. It's known to be an issue now. But Corsair didn't deem it necessary to te) the consumer. I run a Corsair HX850 and it is quiet but the above leaves me a bit jaded for future purchases. When I upgrade in the next few months I'm going EVGA P2.

~Ceadder


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Here yah go... i just sleeved my 4-pin but you can still the color layout.


thank you. Unfortunately all of my wires are black







. I bought it from bmaverick about two years ago (just sent him pm asking for some help).

I tried rewiring based on these two pictures (my 4pin casing has a 1 imprinted on it which I used as the ground











1 GND
2 +12VDC
3 Sense
4 Control

but it still doesn't work :/

p.s this is my pump. I just figured out it is a ddc-1t not mcp355 (been away from wc for a while hah):


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Here yah go... i just sleeved my 4-pin but you can still the color layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you. Unfortunately all of my wires are black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I bought it from bmaverick about two years ago (just sent him pm asking for some help).
> 
> I tried rewiring based on these two pictures (my 4pin casing has a 1 imprinted on it which I used as the ground
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 GND
> 2 +12VDC
> 3 Sense
> 4 Control
> 
> but it still doesn't work :/
> 
> p.s this is my pump. I just figured out it is a ddc-1t not mcp355 (been away from wc for a while hah):
Click to expand...

PWM doesn't work with the 1T bmav used to sell. I have two of them and can speak to that side of things. Mine are sleeved so I couldn't post a pic showing the correct pinout. But that should not matter so long as you put them correctly into order using that pic you posted.

From Left to Right with the pin extraction openings facing up and Pin openings facing you...

PWR
RPM
GND

Hopefully this knowledge combined with that pic will get ya back up and running.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

By any chance doors someone know the measurement for bitspower 250ml res connected to ek or bp pump top and heatsink?


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

^ It amounts to 14'' 13/16, with a BP pump top that is.


----------



## emsj86

If no one told you today your the man thanks alit plus rep. Just realized you have the d5 I was looking for the ddc full measurements with heatsink feet and a 90 on top of bp 250ml res. thanks though


----------



## KShirza1

Block looks good, but i need a backplate. I ordered the swiftech back plate with the EK block, and these just don't work together... Screws with the EK block are not long enough for a back plate and swiftech back plate screws are too thin for the block.

[BUILD LOG] Cs-X Project - Caselabs S8S ( X99, 980Ti, Haswell-E soft tube build)


----------



## KShirza1

Project Normandy is officially retired! This thing went strong with 0 issues on a custom loop for a long time, great system!

Fittings did tarnish, so they are all done for!

the motherboard has to be like 15 lbs! lol


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1*
> 
> Project Normandy is officially retired! This thing went strong with 0 issues on a custom loop for a long time, great system!
> 
> Fittings did tarnish, so they are all done for!
> 
> the motherboard has to be like 15 lbs! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Still looking bada$$


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1*
> 
> Block looks good, but i need a backplate. I ordered the swiftech back plate with the EK block, and these just don't work together... Screws with the EK block are not long enough for a back plate and swiftech back plate screws are too thin for the block.


Yeah its really too bad EK doesnt use the 3/32" screws or whatever is used with backplates nowadays so that EVGA stock backplates can be used. Hopefully they change this especially on the upcoming 980ti kingpin waterblock. It makes no sense
to cover up a bunch of switches on the pcb


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I used EVGA backplates, but I did have to buy a handful of 3mm screws.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I used EVGA backplates, but I did have to buy a handful of 3mm screws.


On your Titan perhaps but 3mm is too big to go through the holes on 980ti kingpin BP


----------



## SteezyTN

Case labs SMA8
RX480
RX360
RX240
560GTS
2x Photon 270 D5 PWM pumps

http://www.overclock.net/t/1562006/build-log-caselabs-sma8-aquity-dual-pump-single-loop-gunmetal-and-black-two-tone-gtx-titan-x-sli-560gts-rx480-rx360-rx240-2-xspc-photon-270


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> By any chance doors someone know the measurement for bitspower 250ml res connected to ek or bp pump top and heatsink?


I will measure when i get home from work today.

It's around 32.5cm including stop fitting.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I will measure when i get home from work today.
> 
> It's around 32.5cm including stop fitting.


I roughed measured it by looking up the product info to about 330mm but that's without a ek 90 adapter on top. Going to be right fit. Worse comes to worse I have a 140ml res but rather use the larger res


----------



## TrumpyAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1*
> 
> i prob wont have it for more than 6 months but who knows.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> Case labs SMA8
> RX480
> RX360
> RX240
> 560GTS
> 2x Photon 270 D5 PWM pumps
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1562006/build-log-caselabs-sma8-aquity-dual-pump-single-loop-gunmetal-and-black-two-tone-gtx-titan-x-sli-560gts-rx480-rx360-rx240-2-xspc-photon-270


ahh you did it







glad to see you´re expanding









It´s time for me looking for another, bigger case.

___

erso


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> ahh you did it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glad to see you´re expanding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It´s time for me looking for another, bigger case.
> 
> ___
> 
> erso


This case seems so big, and it truly is, but with all the hardware I'm cramming in there it seems like it's shrinking haha.!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> This case seems so big, and it truly is, but with all the hardware I'm cramming in there it seems like it's shrinking haha.!


Just wait until you have everything ready to go, then add fluid, then have to move it around









TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just wait until you have everything ready to go, then add fluid, then have to move it around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Oh I know. I'm dreading that. I may just end of saying screw it, and just use my xspc EX240 that I have sitting around for push pull (since I already have three 120ER's). But I think I'll be able to work around it. Let's just hope it doesn't have a leak later down the road haha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Oh I know. I'm dreading that. I may just end of saying screw it, and just use my xspc EX240 that I have sitting around for push pull (since I already have three 120ER's). But I think I'll be able to work around it. *Let's just hope it doesn't have a leak later down the road* haha


I don't think your worst enemy would wish that upon you.

TCO


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> PWM doesn't work with the 1T bmav used to sell. I have two of them and can speak to that side of things. Mine are sleeved so I couldn't post a pic showing the correct pinout. But that should not matter so long as you put them correctly into order using that pic you posted.
> 
> From Left to Right with the pin extraction openings facing up and Pin openings facing you...
> 
> PWR
> RPM
> GND
> 
> Hopefully this knowledge combined with that pic will get ya back up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


it didn't work, i don't know why it isn't working. thank you for trying to help though.
I just left the pump sitting without use for a year, don't know why it wont work. Never been ran dry except for a couple seconds in my previous loop (was working fine after it though)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> PWM doesn't work with the 1T bmav used to sell. I have two of them and can speak to that side of things. Mine are sleeved so I couldn't post a pic showing the correct pinout. But that should not matter so long as you put them correctly into order using that pic you posted.
> 
> From Left to Right with the pin extraction openings facing up and Pin openings facing you...
> 
> PWR
> RPM
> GND
> 
> Hopefully this knowledge combined with that pic will get ya back up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it didn't work, i don't know why it isn't working. thank you for trying to help though.
> I just left the pump sitting without use for a year, don't know why it wont work. Never been ran dry except for a couple seconds in my previous loop (was working fine after it though)
Click to expand...

Have you checked the internals under the top? It could be that your impeller(s) are frozen from lack of use.

If the impeller isn't frozen then I would suggest inspecting the PCB looking specifically for a winding having broken free of the pcb contact or going further, looking to see if there are any burnt or discolored spots on the pcb that may clue you in to an issue. If it's the PCB that can be replaced for much cheaper than buying a new pump. You can find DDC pcb change kits on eBay...

I just checked that and haven't found one but I know you can get them. Just don't see anything as of yet.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If it's the PCB that can be replaced for much cheaper than buying a new pump. You can find DDC pcb change kits on eBay...
> 
> I just checked that and haven't found one but I know you can get them. Just don't see anything as of yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


it's diyinhk

http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/6-ddc-pump


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Pushing 1.5Gal/Min with a DDC, Supremacy Evo, Ek 780 Original CSQ Block and a 240mm XSPC Rx V3 Rad.

This Aurora is Poppin!! The S3 is Banging it Out Now. Gabriel mentioned I might have the Fins of the Supremacy Block wrong or against the flow, since the flow was around 0.5 Gal/Min Before. Switching the Fins in the direction of the Inlet and outlet of the Evo Top Resulted in a 1.0 Gal/Min Gain for 1.5Gal/Min Total. What a Difference.









TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Its kind of hard to see the aurora in the video, but that build came out nice TCO.

How long you had it running?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Its kind of hard to see the aurora in the video, but that build came out nice TCO.
> 
> How long you had it running?


I ran it last night after correcting the flow path of the EVO. But I am bringing it back to work today. I'd rather show the community my shortcommings and faults, and how they were fixed then letting people believe it was perfect from the start. Not saying people do this, but I feel better pointing out my problems then keeping them to myself.

I feel that running the DDC 100% with the correct flow path will not allow the person to see the Aurora Correctly. I am drawing the conclusion of having to use the PMW function of the DDC and maybe having to run it at around 60% in order for the Aurora to "Look" correct you know?

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I ran it last night after correcting the flow path of the EVO. But I am bringing it back to work today. I'd rather show the community my shortcommings and faults, and how they were fixed then letting people believe it was perfect from the start. Not saying people do this, but I feel better pointing out my problems then keeping them to myself.
> 
> I feel that running the DDC 100% with the correct flow path will not allow the person to see the Aurora Correctly. I am drawing the conclusion of having to use the PMW function of the DDC and maybe having to run it at around 60% in order for the Aurora to "Look" correct you know?
> 
> TCO


Were the fins on the block originally like that, or did you accidentally misplace them in the wrong position?


----------



## Domler

@TheCautiousOne
Awesome. Victory for you means, maybe a victory for me when I fire mine up. Keep us posted if you notice any changes.


----------



## spiderxjz82

So I picked up an Enthoo Primo, going to be transplanting my X79, 3930K system into it but the addition of two Titan X's, but I'm unsure of whether my current rads are up to the task.

I use the same CPU but with two Titans at the moment and have 2 x 240 Alphacool ST30 rads and one 360 rad. Is that enough, should I consider changing a 240 for a double thickness 360?

The Primo certainly has a lot of room for rads anyway.

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/enthoo-primo/FAQ2.png


----------



## MKHunt

I'd imagine they would be adequate. But as a primo owner, that case will look crazy empty without a lot of rad. Even with 120x10 of rad my case has some vast open areas.

ETA: Before my skylake refresh (in progress)


----------



## SteezyTN

Here's an update on my SMA8. Everything is installed, except for the pass throughs, tubing (PETG and flex), and bottom compartment fans. It's a known fact that GPU's, Pumps, and front radiator will have the tubing go straight down to the midplate. Now I just need a way to route the CPU tubing. I want to make it look "stealthy" to where there is no tubing connected to the top radiator, except for the top and back of the case. Any ideas?


----------



## Domler

@SteezyTNmaybe over the ram throu the motherboard tray and down the back side?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @SteezyTNmaybe over the ram throu the motherboard tray and down the back side?


This was my original plan:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






I cant do what I wanted because the Res' needed much more room than I thought. But since I do have enough room on the mobo tray (not the back piece where the pump/res' are mounted), I guess I can just drill the holes in the mobo tray and do a horizontal run. Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Were the fins on the block originally like that, or did you accidentally misplace them in the wrong position?


I must have reattached the Plate wrong after I re-assembled the block after polishing the CSQ (And that is 100% Probable)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne
> Awesome. Victory for you means, maybe a victory for me when I fire mine up. Keep us posted if you notice any changes.


Good! This is why I post results, reguardless of positive, negative, I want people to learn









TCO


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Here's an update on my SMA8. Everything is installed, except for the pass throughs, tubing (PETG and flex), and bottom compartment fans. It's a known fact that GPU's, Pumps, and front radiator will have the tubing go straight down to the midplate. Now I just need a way to route the CPU tubing. I want to make it look "stealthy" to where there is no tubing connected to the top radiator, except for the top and back of the case. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Try just going from the GPU`s to the CPU, like depicted in this horrible Paint edit:



Not really sure how it would go regarding cooling performance, but I've seen this kind of configuration repeatedly and it looks so nice...
You can hide the connections on the top rad by routing them behind the backplate, maybe drill a pair of holes or something. It would look nice and clean.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

This is with the Little Rig!









At 4.4Ghz, 1.275v, max temp on Cores were 65C

TCO


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Try just going from the GPU`s to the CPU, like depicted in this horrible Paint edit:
> 
> 
> 
> Not really sure how it would go regarding cooling performance, but I've seen this kind of configuration repeatedly and it looks so nice...
> You can hide the connections on the top rad by routing them behind the backplate, maybe drill a pair of holes or something. It would look nice and clean.


I love the look of parallel loops.


----------



## Ceadderman

For those of you who were interested...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-240-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html
EK XLC Predator $199.99

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-360-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html 

EK XLC Predator 360 $239.99

Less than 29 days before the 240 is available. And 55 days til the 360 is.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For those of you who were interested...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-240-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html
> 
> EK XLC Predator 240 $199.99
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-360-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html
> 
> EK XLC Predator 360 $249.99
> 
> Less than 29 days before they're available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


$239.99


----------



## Ceadderman

Thank you Steez.









Fixed and fixed.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I received my email from EK to order one lol, might order the 240


----------



## emsj86

Wonder if it will fail. Not saying it a a bad product but fail due to lack of experience customers. For example take a look at swiftech h220x club. All it is people not knowing what there doing than wanting Rma s. Looks awesome if I ever went away from custom is buy this in a heart beat.


----------



## Ceadderman

If that thing fails due to consumer, the consumer needs to just leave computers alone.









~Ceadder


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you checked the internals under the top? It could be that your impeller(s) are frozen from lack of use.
> 
> If the impeller isn't frozen then I would suggest inspecting the PCB looking specifically for a winding having broken free of the pcb contact or going further, looking to see if there are any burnt or discolored spots on the pcb that may clue you in to an issue. If it's the PCB that can be replaced for much cheaper than buying a new pump. You can find DDC pcb change kits on eBay...
> 
> I just checked that and haven't found one but I know you can get them. Just don't see anything as of yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i got it working somewhat. I think the pcb / motor is bad because it starts and stops randomly. Sometimes giving it a little shake makes it start but it stops when moved


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If that thing fails due to consumer, the consumer needs to just leave computers alone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


How can it be more idiot-proof than that?


----------



## Crunkles

Hey everyone,
Just got myself a Corsair 900D and looking to transfer my current setup over. I have some "new" parts I want to include, bought them 2 years ago and haven't used, and wanted to get your input on how to mount everything.

I'm going from a pump/res combo to a MCP 655 and FrozenQ 250mm res. I will reuse my XSPC 360 EX triple 120mm slim profile and 3/8" ID tubing.

Hoping someone can help me with where to mount things and how to position fans for intake and exhaust. On mobile so all I can provide right now, all input appreciated. Thanks y'all.


----------



## KShirza1

It just got awesome over here!


----------



## Ceadderman

Vury cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Now thats going to be some serious cooling


----------



## Ceadderman

Be ready to return those 140s. Some of them may suffer from the recall issue if not all of them.









I would test them today.









~Ceadder


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Be ready to return those 140s. Some of them may suffer from the recall issue if not all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would test them today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Recalled for the ticking noise, or something else? Have a source?


----------



## OGBeandip

Whats the recall issue with them?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Recalled for the ticking noise, or something else? Have a source?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Whats the recall issue with them?


It's apparently bad bearings, but I had a problem with bad coil whine from the PWM signal on two of mine. I'm gonna return them all just in case and get 4 from the new batch when they are available.


----------



## Ceadderman

Metallic ticking noise eminating.from the hubs.

EK posted a thread about it on ocn.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> It's apparently bad bearings, but I had a problem with bad coil whine from the PWM signal on two of mine. I'm gonna return them all just in case and get 4 from the new batch when they are available.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Metallic ticking noise eminating.from the hubs.
> 
> EK posted a thread about it on ocn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well thats dissapointing. Mind linking me the thread if you have it around? I just spent hundreds on these fans so hopefully theyre good. Youd think retailers would take them off the shelf if they had problems


----------



## Ceadderman

Umderstamdable. Sadly I am on my gone today otherwise I would've linked it first thing.

But I believe that EK has vendor threads. So if you go to forums and scroll there then choose EK, you should find it easy enough.

Test those fans though. You may be lucky enough not to be affected by the issue except for my big mouth.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Whats the recall issue with them?


EK made a statement over in the 140 announcement thread. They was a metallic clicking noise in some of the fans. I know if one person who doesn't have the issue, so check your fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK-CEO*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I must inform you that following a couple of RMAs we realized the Vardar 140 batch has serious quality issues so we had to stop all sales and will be informing all customers of the following situation:
> 
> *Product recall for EK-Vardar 140 (F2, F3, FF4)*
> 
> EAN# Name
> 3831109867570 EK-Vardar F2-140
> 3831109867587 EK-Vardar F3-140ER
> 3831109867594 EK-Furious Vardar FF4-140
> 
> Some of those fans produce metallic sound when running at low speeds that can be considered annoying for some buyers. F2-140 and F3-140ER, when they operate at lower RPM, a metal noise can be heard, something similar to two metal parts rubbing against each other, probably a faulty bearing. With FF4-140, a strange noise can be heard (either at low or high RPM) in the motor area, the cause is currently unknown. *NOT all Fans were affected but we do not want to sell something that might be faulty*, so all sales of these fans are stopped until issue is resolved.
> 
> EK-Vardar F1-140 (3831109867563) IS NOT affected by this issue and is staying available for purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Existing customers will be given a choice of;
> 1. Complete refund.
> 2. Replacement when the new redesigned batch arrives (1-2 months waiting time, currently unclear).
> 
> We are sorry that after such a long wait we need to recall the products you were looking forward to. Please excuse us for any inconveniences this might have caused you.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1546649/product-info-and-discussion-vardar-radiator-fans/300


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Well thats dissapointing. Mind linking me the thread if you have it around? I just spent hundreds on these fans so hopefully theyre good. Youd think retailers would take them off the shelf if they had problems


Here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1546649/product-info-and-discussion-vardar-radiator-fans/320#post_24334540

You're not alone in this. I just ordered 7 of the F3-140ER fans (as well as 5 F4-120ER) last Friday, and they just got here today. I sent a message to PPCs, and they said they would check with EK about whether I can use the ones I got until the replacements arrive.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks Steez. +Rep for Tha backup.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Thanks for the information. Ill test them soon.


----------



## Domler

Hey guys, any discount codes for performance pcs? Bout to place a good order tomarrow.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Hey guys, any discount codes for performance pcs? Bout to place a good order tomarrow.


They have one for back to school and ithink it ends tomorrow. Check out their Facebook page


----------



## Domler

@SteezyTNCool, thanks.


----------



## SteezyTN

What do you guys think of this routing for the CPU in my SMA8?


----------



## Domler

Performance pcs sale
Spend $50 get 7% off: "SCHOOL15-7"
Spend $250 get 8.5% off: "SCHOOL15-8.5"
Spend over $500 get 10% off: "SCHOOL15-10"

Ends the 28th


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Performance pcs sale
> Spend $50 get 7% off: "SCHOOL15-7"
> Spend $250 get 8.5% off: "SCHOOL15-8.5"
> Spend over $500 get 10% off: "SCHOOL15-10"
> 
> Ends the 28th


I mainly use the mobile site, so I was too lazy to go all the way to their FB page and copy and paste it lol. just takes to much time


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I mainly use the mobile site, so I was too lazy to go all the way to their FB page and copy and paste it lol. just takes to much time


OCN55 discount code every time - let 'em know OCN's where you came from


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> OCN55 discount code every time - let 'em know OCN's where you came from


I automatically assumed that everyone knew about that? Because normally when I ask about the discounts, it's for the 7% +


----------



## Domler

@SteezyTN
Not bad. I think the 24 pin will go under the top cpu line and might be hidden by the bottom line. Just a thought, what if we go straight up from the top about an inch then 90^right, and the bottom line straight down the same distance, 90^ right then 90^ down. Opens up space to show off the 24 pin? Let me think of a couple other ideas.


----------



## Domler

@SteezyTN
Ok. what if we turn the cpu block left and right, instead of up and down. We could do 90^ off the block, straight up, then 90^ right, both go throu the motherboard tray. Idea 2 What if we have the block left and right. Right port 90^ down, like one inch, then 90^ left to a 90^ up to the rad, left port 90^ up, to a 90^ right to the motherboard tray throu port. Tossing anything out there.


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> OCN55 discount code every time - let 'em know OCN's where you came from


First time i know,









is it only useful in PPCs?
How much discount?

thanks

peace


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> First time i know,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it only useful in PPCs?
> How much discount?
> 
> thanks
> 
> peace


OCN55 is 5.5% on orders above 50$ at PPCs I believe.

Edit: Just confirmed that the discount code OCN55 for PerformancePCs is 5.5% on orders above 50$.


----------



## BrjSan

Thanks .. .was good to know.


----------



## MTup

Question. Just cooling my CPU (FX8350) will the 360mm xt45 outperform the 240mm ut60? Waiting for my HAF X and have a feeling the ut60 may have to be modded in.


----------



## Domler

360 will beat the 240.


----------



## Ceadderman

The UT60 should fit cleanly into the HAFx without much in the way of modification. If it even needs to be nodded at all.

You will lose your top 2/3 5.25 bays depending if you run Push or Push/Pull. You don't actually lose them since the radiator doesn't fill the entire bay but you will lose half the depth from midway back.









~Ceadder


----------



## RnRollie

but the bay is not really lost if you put an Aquaro LT inthere, or a few things like this








http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-lcd-temperature-sensor-v2-red-g1-4-plug-sensor.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Exactly. You can put half size peripherals in like teeemp gages etc. Nothing of notable(standard) length will fit however.









~Ceadder


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The UT60 should fit cleanly into the HAFx without much in the way of modification. If it even needs to be nodded at all.
> 
> You will lose your top 2/3 5.25 bays depending if you run Push or Push/Pull. You don't actually lose them since the radiator doesn't fill the entire bay but you will lose half the depth from midway back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I assume you mean if I buy a 360mm that I'd lose 2/3 of my bay. What I'm trying to do is get possibly 10 deg cooler on my CPU than my h100i. I think the ut60 and 25 mm fans will slightly hang over my MB. I can handle that only slightly though. Thanks for the replies btw.


----------



## Ceadderman

Two to three = 2/3 of your bays yes.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Question. Just cooling my CPU (FX8350) will the 360mm xt45 outperform the 240mm ut60? Waiting for my HAF X and have a feeling the ut60 may have to be modded in.


What fan will you be using and at what realistic rpm will you run them at daily? Going push/pull, pull, or push?


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> What fan will you be using and at what realistic rpm will you run them at daily? Going push/pull, pull, or push?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> What fan will you be using and at what realistic rpm will you run them at daily? Going push/pull, pull, or push?


I have some F4 120 Vardar fans. Call me crazy but I will be pushing out from the bottom to begin with. My side fan brings cool air across the vrm's an NB then out through the top. That is the setup I'm using with my H100i and I'm overclocked to 4.91 with load temps 60-65 on the core. Just trying to get to 5.0. Vcore will need 1.6 at that speed on this chip. I may have to install the fans on top this time with the HAF X then I'll try bringing cool air


----------



## Domler

Anybody use thermal grizzly kryonaught yet? Heard good things. Got some coming in. Wondering if it's just snakeoil, or if it's that good.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Anybody use thermal grizzly kryonaught yet? Heard good things. Got some coming in. Wondering if it's just snakeoil, or if it's that good.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> I have some F4 120 Vardar fans. Call me crazy but I will be pushing out from the bottom to begin with. My side fan brings cool air across the vrm's an NB then out through the top. That is the setup I'm using with my H100i and I'm overclocked to 4.91 with load temps 60-65 on the core. Just trying to get to 5.0. Vcore will need 1.6 at that speed on this chip. I may have to install the fans on top this time with the HAF X then I'll try bringing cool air


You going to run them at 2200rpm all the time? I only ask because there is a difference between running them at max 2200rpm and 1200rpm. At lower speeds the difference will probably be negligible.

Got that sneaky post in. lol

If you run them at max rpm then the thicker radiator will probably net you 2-3 degrees or so. Take a look at most radiator and fan roundups to see.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> How can it be more idiot-proof than that?


Im a idiot anyone want to get me one to give it a try .







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Anybody use thermal grizzly kryonaught yet? Heard good things. Got some coming in. Wondering if it's just snakeoil, or if it's that good.


Gelid extreme proven and tested









Let us know always open to better things.


----------



## MTup

@Sinnedone. I use a fan controller so I rev my fans up when I need to.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> You going to run them at 2200rpm all the time? I only ask because there is a difference between running them at max 2200rpm and 1200rpm. At lower speeds the difference will probably be negligible.
> 
> Got that sneaky post in. lol
> 
> If you run them at max rpm then the thicker radiator will probably net you 2-3 degrees or so. Take a look at most radiator and fan roundups to see.


Sneaky post is on a count that my phone has a mind of its own.
Is that 2-3 deg C difference between the 360 xt45 and 240 ut60 or ut60 (which I have in a box) and my H100i (which is installed in my current case)?


----------



## somerandombloke

Redid my rig and replace my Cooler Master HAF 922 with a Fractal Design Define S. I'll tell you this, it make a huge difference since now I can fit my AX360 inside the case instead of having it outside, plus I added a 280mm radiator in the front as well.

Quite happy how it turned out, though I wished the window acrylic wasn't so scratch prone that I have to leave the protective film on.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Anybody use thermal grizzly kryonaught yet? Heard good things. Got some coming in. Wondering if it's just snakeoil, or if it's that good.


It's really good, I have a review in the works myself and have tested it out over 15 different mounts now.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's really good, I have a review in the works myself and have tested it out over 15 different mounts now.


Cool, good to hear since its not cheap.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Sneaky post is on a count that my phone has a mind of its own.
> Is that 2-3 deg C difference between the *360 xt45 and 240* ut60 or ut60 (which I have in a box) and my H100i (which is installed in my current case)?


The difference is not much at full rpm. I'm sorry I can't link anything right now but check martins/xtreme rigs/ and even our own forum members have done tests of rad thickness/size at various rpm. It's more of how you want to run your system.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> The difference is not much at full rpm. I'm sorry I can't link anything right now but check martins/xtreme rigs/ and even our own forum members have done tests of rad thickness/size at various rpm. It's more of how you want to run your system.


I did find that watts of cooling will be better using an xt45 360mm over my ut60 240mm so I went ahead and ordered the Xt45 360.

This is just a hobby and I'm no big gamer or anything. Right now I'm running at 4.83GHz 24/7 with eco's turned on til I want to stress. Besides this CPU is a blast to play with.

Thanks again for your help.


----------



## Archea47

Let's put this Water Cooling Picture Gallery to good use









Progress on Daedalic:





(the mobo fittings are a temporary carry-over from Icarus Wings)


----------



## emsj86

Several tests on goggle search show gelid extreme being dethroned for thermal grizzly. I don't think you'll see the wow factor from gelid extreme to thermal grizzly but from a normal paste all reviews and tests I've seen show around 6 degrees which is good to see


----------



## OGBeandip

Ive noticed all of Thermal Grizzlies advertising shows you spreading it evenly over the IHS. Should we ignore this as usual or is it actually helpful this time?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Several tests on goggle search show gelid extreme being dethroned for thermal grizzly. I don't think you'll see the wow factor from gelid extreme to thermal grizzly but from a normal paste all reviews and tests I've seen show around 6 degrees which is good to see


6 Degrees







I've seen a degree, sometimes in either direction, between the reviews

These guys have Gelid ahead at lower clocks by half a degree and Kryonaut ahead a degree at heavier clocks
http://www.play3r.net/reviews/cooling/best-thermal-paste-2015-update/

Saw that a few weeks ago and bought the CoolLaboratories (Pro - PPCs didn't have Ultra)


----------



## gdubc

Ahhh, the old and great TIM debate reignited.


----------



## Ceadderman

Geld Extreme was king? Since when?









G751 placed higher in 80way review which you can find in my sig.

It's an old review but it's the most comprehensive only lacking comparison of the last 5 years of TIM releases which I am sure you can find reviews of and extrapolate comparing to this review.









I have a 3g tube of Hydronaut in my cart so I will be comparing that to G751 and reporting my findings. One leg up it has over G751 which I don't need it in hand to test is the applicator tip allows a better spread vs G751. So we'll see what's up hopefully sometime in the middle of the month.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Let's put this Water Cooling Picture Gallery to good use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Progress on Daedalic:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the mobo fittings are a temporary carry-over from Icarus Wings)


So are you going to use Hardline?

TCO


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So are you going to use Hardline?
> 
> TCO


Thanks for asking TCO!

Already have some of the hardline in - if you look at those pictures there's copper coming up from a passthrough up from the pedestal into the dual D5 pump setup. And then copper coming up from the pump, then type changing to 3/8x1/2" soft tubing. There's copper between the top rads as well.

All of the motherboard & CPU blocks will be soft clear tubing from that type change above the pumps to the last mobo block, then will go copper up to the top radiators. There's also a little soft tubing in the pedestal coming up to the passthrough because there's just no way to assemble it that I can see otherwise


----------



## Jflisk

I would personally use the IC diamond but it really does scratch what it is applied to( personal experience does not break anything but does scratch). That's why I stuck to the Gelid extreme.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks for asking TCO!
> 
> Already have some of the hardline in - if you look at those pictures there's copper coming up from a passthrough up from the pedestal into the dual D5 pump setup. And then copper coming up from the pump, then type changing to 3/8x1/2" soft tubing. There's copper between the top rads as well.
> 
> All of the motherboard & CPU blocks will be soft clear tubing from that type change above the pumps to the last mobo block, then will go copper up to the top radiators. There's also a little soft tubing in the pedestal coming up to the passthrough because there's just no way to assemble it that I can see otherwise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You Don't Have to Thank me Buddy, You're the one we get to watch build it









A Combo of Copper Hardline and Soft Tubing







Interesting theory you have there. I can see how you would put soft in the places that are tighter than a Virgin you know? But, Why Soft on the Motherboard then, going back to Hardline? Why Not hardline throughout the top section and leave the soft tubing areas in the bottom compartment? Is it more feasible? Do you prefer soft tubing on components such as the motherboard?

TCO


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Don't Have to Thank me Buddy, You're the one we get to watch build it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A Combo of Copper Hardline and Soft Tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting theory you have there. I can see how you would put soft in the places that are tighter than a Virgin you know? But, Why Soft on the Motherboard then, going back to Hardline?
> 
> TCO


Good Q - Thanks for--oh yeah









The motherboard is going to be all nickel 90* compressions. Nothing out of the orginary there, but I have a few FX-83xx (and 4xxx FWIW) and want to be able to swap between them without draining. But I love the copper. Unfortunately the motherboard blocks aren't available in copper. I did polish them up with NEVR-DULL (thanks Ceadderman!), which I'll be doing to the copper as well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Good Q - Thanks for--oh yeah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherboard is going to be all nickel 90* compressions. Nothing out of the orginary there, *but I have a few FX-83xx (and 4xxx FWIW) and want to be able to swap between them without draining*. But I love the copper. Unfortunately the motherboard blocks aren't available in copper. I did polish them up with NEVR-DULL (thanks Ceadderman!), which I'll be doing to the copper as well.


This is what I was looking for.









I understand









Carry On Soldier, For the Troops Await.

TCO


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This is what I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carry On Soldier, For the Troops Await.
> 
> TCO


I've always wanted pastel but have stayed away because of the ~5%? performance hit vs. distilled. But I calculated I'm approx. quadrupling my finned radiator volume and increasing the average fan speed (all the rad fans are FF5 3K vardars) so I can take the hit. But with ~3 liters of coolant capacity (550ml in the Monsta alone) that's a pricey fill of coolant compared to what I'm used to ($1.25 a gallon)


----------



## emsj86

So I was thinking of getting a fi port as I think t would help with filling and draining. My question is if I out the full port on the top side of my ut60 480 rad that will be on the top of my case will the the tubing to the fill port fill up. Meaning if I crack the full port when draining will it spill out. Also cracking the top port cap on my rad do that as well or no?


----------



## brazilianloser

So let the fun begin.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I need longer screws for my SMA8. The radiators (560GTS and RX360) don't have long enough screws for my EK vardars and the Caselabs radiator bracket. What length size so I need for them?

I have 6 screws, but need 24 more. Would these work?

http://m.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-100-Count-6--32-x-1-14-in-Round-Head-Zinc-Plated-Slotted-Drive-Standard-SAE-Machine-Screws/4744769

The ones that work are like 30-31mm, and there's a few more mm left before it touches the fins on the rad. Is 1-1/4" (31.75mm) long enough?


----------



## siffonen

Usually 30mm is long enough lenght for rad use, also you could easily measure the correct lenght.
Those screws looks to have wrong thread, m3 is correct thread for rads for my experience.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Usually 30mm is long enough lenght for rad use, also you could easily measure the correct lenght.
> Those screws looks to have wrong thread, m3 is correct thread for rads for my experience.


I'm also using the caselabs radiator bracket, so that's added.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm also using the caselabs radiator bracket, so that's added.


I dont think that the bracket is so thick that 30mm screw is too short, you could also buy like 35mm screw, and if those are too long you can cut them to correct lenght.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I dont think that the bracket is so thick that 30mm screw is too short, you could also buy like 35mm screw, and if those are too long you can cut them to correct lenght.


30mm screws ARE TOO SHORT. Why do you think I'm trying to get bigger screws? 35mm is too long


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 30mm screws ARE TOO SHORT. Why do you think I'm trying to get bigger screws? 35mm is too long


Just cut the 35mm to size you need.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Several tests on goggle search show gelid extreme being dethroned for thermal grizzly. I don't think you'll see the wow factor from gelid extreme to thermal grizzly but from a normal paste all reviews and tests I've seen show around 6 degrees which is good to see


I'm interested to test it against the trusty Shin-Etsu I usually use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Ahhh, the old and great TIM debate reignited.


I don't believe in TIM roundup reviews. Some reviews even have different results than the other reviews. I rather test the TIM myself.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I would personally use the IC diamond but it really does scratch what it is applied to( personal experience does not break anything but does scratch). That's why I stuck to the Gelid extreme.


It does scratch but it won't cause any problem. You just need a good solvent when cleaning IC Diamond paste.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I dont think that the bracket is so thick that 30mm screw is too short, you could also buy like 35mm screw, and if those are too long you can cut them to correct lenght.
> 
> 
> 
> 30mm screws ARE TOO SHORT. Why do you think I'm trying to get bigger screws? 35mm is too long
Click to expand...

Get 35, cut to lenght
OR use a washer,
OR even better - a rubber/norprene radiator gasket (5-7mm)... might even need 40mm long screws if you include a radiator gasket.

Gasket helps with fan distance , -thus improving performance- and reduces vibrations a (tiny) bit


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Usually 30mm is long enough lenght for rad use, also you could easily measure the correct lenght.
> Those screws looks to have wrong thread, m3 is correct thread for rads for my experience.


PE Rads are 6-32 iirc.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Just cut the 35mm to size you need.












TCO


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Get 35, cut to lenght
> OR use a washer,
> OR even better - a rubber/norprene radiator gasket (5-7mm)... might even need 40mm long screws if you include a radiator gasket.
> 
> Gasket helps with fan distance , -thus improving performance- and reduces vibrations a (tiny) bit


Agreed.

Assuming the OP's are like the S8's radiator mounts, they are 3mm. I use 3mm gasket on the radiator to the mount, 1mm gasket on the mount to the fans, and 35mm length screws through the Vardars. That's: 3 + 3 + 1 + 25 = 31mm, though it seems more like 33 and crushes down to 30


----------



## emsj86

Any chance anyone have the low profile g 1/4 bitspower 90 in silver:chrome color. Pics only has black sparkle and shipping is almost twice the fitting and everything else is over seas. I'll gladly pay for it and shipping


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I need longer screws for my SMA8. The radiators (560GTS and RX360) don't have long enough screws for my EK vardars and the Caselabs radiator bracket. What length size so I need for them?
> 
> I have 6 screws, but need 24 more. Would these work?
> 
> http://m.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-100-Count-6--32-x-1-14-in-Round-Head-Zinc-Plated-Slotted-Drive-Standard-SAE-Machine-Screws/4744769
> 
> The ones that work are like 30-31mm, and there's a few more mm left before it touches the fins on the rad. Is 1-1/4" (31.75mm) long enough?


Are you using the screws that came with 560GTS? I also ordered a 560GTS recently and the screws that came with it are actually about 28mm long, just enough to mount fans only to the rad. I dont have my case and the radiator bracket yet but I am planning to install a gasket as well on the rad so ordered 30mm and 35mm screws with some washers to see what fits best. The threads on Hardware Labs rad are M4.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I always stop by HomeDepot/Lowes and stock up on scews for my rads


----------



## ckoons1

Hi guys
Any size issues with monsoon chain gun fittings when installed on an alphacool monsta rad next to a fan?
Thx


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Where is @wermad

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Are you using the screws that came with 560GTS? I also ordered a 560GTS recently and the screws that came with it are actually about 28mm long, just enough to mount fans only to the rad. I dont have my case and the radiator bracket yet but I am planning to install a gasket as well on the rad so ordered 30mm and 35mm screws with some washers to see what fits best. The threads on Hardware Labs rad are M4.


Yes, the GTS rad screws are exactly 28mm long. I just went to ace hardware to pick some screws up. I got 8-32 (M4) 1-1/4" screws for my GTS and 6-32 (M3.5) 1-1/4" screws for my RX and they work perfectly


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yes, the GTS rad screws are exactly 28mm long. I just went to ace hardware to pick some screws up. I got 8-32 (M4) 1-1/4" screws for my GTS and 6-32 (M3.5) 1-1/4" screws for my RX and they work perfectly


Nice setup there. What color scheme are you going with on this one? I noticed you went with red, white and blue (or is that purple) on the others. My new custom loop will be red, white and blue consisting of blood red hardline tubing (using distilled water) and res, white wiring and blue lighting.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

finally had some time to work on my test bench I started a few weeks ago. hoping to have my PC in it by the end of next week, so I can start modding my main rig.

http://imgur.com/jn0BGj2


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Nice setup there. What color scheme are you going with on this one? I noticed you went with red, white and blue (or is that purple) on the others. My new custom loop will be red, white and blue consisting of blood red hardline tubing (using distilled water) and res, white wiring and blue lighting.


Mainly black and red, and the coolant is Mayhems Pastel Ice White.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Mainly black and red, and the coolant is Mayhems Pastel Ice White.


Cool. I look forward to seeing it.


----------



## Sdiddy68

Hi,

I'm a new member. I have some pics of my first build. It was looking great but now I think I've gone too far. It's looking 'cluttered'. Just goes to show that you CAN have too much of a good thing. The fact that my Thermaltake Mozart TX is so huge means it's hard to run out of room, so I just keep adding.

I have found a great lighting setup. It's cheap, and can be any color you like. It even comes with a remote control which allows you to choose from about 64 different colors. I got it from that online bidding/buying site. It's a waterproof 'strip' of SMD LED's. It comes in a 5 metre roll for about $17.00. You can cut it, join it, do just about whatever you want. It comes with the remote control and receiver and runs off 12v DC. It's usually the 12v transformer that costs the most as you need 60w to power the whole 5 metres. 12V DC 60w adapters are expensive ($50 - $75) but you can power the strip with a molex. I choose a nice blue for daytime and for night time or gaming I go with deep red. If anyone would like info, ask me.

I will be checking out some pics to get ideas how I can tidy mine up. Problem is that the cost of all the little bits and pieces (triple rotaries etc.) you need to chase perfection can add up to more than a decent GPU!

Cheers,

Sdiddy68


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sdiddy68*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm a new member. I have some pics of my first build. It was looking great but now I think I've gone too far. It's looking 'cluttered'. Just goes to show that you CAN have too much of a good thing. The fact that my Thermaltake Mozart TX is so huge means it's hard to run out of room, so I just keep adding.
> 
> I have found a great lighting setup. It's cheap, and can be any color you like. It even comes with a remote control which allows you to choose from about 64 different colors. I got it from that online bidding/buying site. It's a waterproof 'strip' of SMD LED's. It comes in a 5 metre roll for about $17.00. You can cut it, join it, do just about whatever you want. It comes with the remote control and receiver and runs off 12v DC. It's usually the 12v transformer that costs the most as you need 60w to power the whole 5 metres. 12V DC 60w adapters are expensive ($50 - $75) but you can power the strip with a molex. I choose a nice blue for daytime and for night time or gaming I go with deep red. If anyone would like info, ask me.
> 
> I will be checking out some pics to get ideas how I can tidy mine up. Problem is that the cost of all the little bits and pieces (triple rotaries etc.) you need to chase perfection can add up to more than a decent GPU!
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Sdiddy68


Just my opinion and I haven't built my custom water yet but have all the parts waiting for some time off work to start. Suggesting hardline tubing, custom colored wiring for your psu and wire combs would really tidy up the place. You are clean with wiring just could add some custom color to it. Again, just my opinion.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Cool. I look forward to seeing it.




http://www.overclock.net/t/1562006/build-log-caselabs-sma8-aquity-dual-pump-single-loop-gunmetal-and-black-two-tone-gtx-titan-x-sli-560gts-rx480-rx360-rx240-2-xspc-photon-270


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1562006/build-log-caselabs-sma8-aquity-dual-pump-single-loop-gunmetal-and-black-two-tone-gtx-titan-x-sli-560gts-rx480-rx360-rx240-2-xspc-photon-270


Wow Steezy that's a lot of stuff. I will check back from time to time to see your master piece. My HAF X came in today but I'm only interested in cooling my FX-8350 to get to 5.0GHz 24/7. I can run 4.9 eco now with my H100i 24/7 but temps are just over manufactures suggestions while stressing. Right now I have an xt45 360mm rad and a ut60 so I think I can do it. I may put them both in since I'm a tubing bender from hell. I use to run stainless tubing at work. BTW this is just a hobby for me. I'm not a gamer I'm an old guy that appreciates nice builds like yours to be. I'm patriotic and want a red, white and blue theme if it can be accomplished.


----------



## sdmf74

Can you guys confirm which side is Inlet/outlet on the EK uniblock? Ive seen many photos where the EK logo is in different spots on the block. Should I just assume the Inlet is always on the left side? (when block is mounted to gpu).


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Can you guys confirm which side is Inlet/outlet on the EK uniblock? Ive seen many photos where the EK logo is in different spots on the block. Should I just assume the Inlet is always on the left side? (when block is mounted to gpu).


It looks like mate. The sticker can be placed anywhere but the ports are not going to be changed. With ports facing up (just like your pic) left is the inlet and right the outlet.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It looks like mate. The sticker can be placed anywhere but the ports are not going to be changed. With ports facing up (just like your pic) left is the inlet and right the outlet.


ok just wanted to make sure thanks rep+


----------



## Radnad

actually it looks like EK has some discrepancy with their documentation as well as pictures on the product page. does the EK badge already come on the block, or did you put it on? i don't think it matters which port is in or out as long as the block and and plate are aligned correctly with the top. i'm assuming it came already assembled and you didn't assemble it?

EDIT: you should probably post this in the EK forums for a rep to respond to.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well if you separate the top from the base it should tell you what you want to know without input. On Thermosphere it's indeed Left side. But that's an old skool block so it may be on the right.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question, whenever I rebuild my rig, which way should I have the fans going?

Top 360 out front 240 in or the other way around, I currently have them both in and the case is an oven, almost fried the pump today







.

Thanks







.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> actually it looks like EK has some discrepancy with their documentation as well as pictures on the product page. does the EK badge already come on the block, or did you put it on? i don't think it matters which port is in or out as long as the block and and plate are aligned correctly with the top. i'm assuming it came already assembled and you didn't assemble it?
> 
> EDIT: you should probably post this in the EK forums for a rep to respond to.


Yeah the badge comes preinstalled, thats why I was wondering if mine was assembled wrong from EK
The manual specifically states "Carefully identify the direction of the flow in your circuit. For the EK-VGA Supremacy series water block to operate properly it is mandatory to use the dedicated INLET/OUTLET
openings as shown on picture below"

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well if you separate the top from the base it should tell you what you want to know without input. On Thermosphere it's indeed Left side. But that's an old skool block so it may be on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not sure what you mean by "without input" but its not labeled anywhere on the block

@Aussiejuggalo, I use my front as intakes and my top as exhaust along with a rear exhaust


----------



## Radnad

EK might have a QC problem with badge placement then. Your probably going to have to disassemble it to be sure, but I would post in the EK forum and get thier blessing first to ensure you don't void warranty.


----------



## clubbin09

Ok


----------



## TrumpyAl

Argghh! Quick question - I've just had my second EK rad leak on my new rig. I (thought I was) sure that screw lengths are correct and there's no visible damage to the core but I'm not about to try a third attempt with the same component in there.

Is there a generally accepted best quality choice that comes with a guard so the screws can't possibly punch into the core? I'm after 240 by 60mm.

Irks me that the most expensive option (at my retailer anyway) has no bolts guards when my AIO corsair h100i's dinky little rad has them.

This is my first loop so feel free to point out potentially rookie mistakes!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrumpyAl*
> 
> Argghh! Quick question - I've just had my second EK rad leak on my new rig. I (thought I was) sure that screw lengths are correct and there's no visible damage to the core but I'm not about to try a third attempt with the same component in there.
> 
> Is there a generally accepted best quality choice that comes with a guard so the screws can't possibly punch into the core? I'm after 240 by 60mm.
> 
> Irks me that the most expensive option (at my retailer anyway) has no bolts guards when my AIO corsair h100i's dinky little rad has them.
> 
> This is my first loop so feel free to point out potentially rookie mistakes!


I'm familiar with at least Alphacool and Hardware Labs offering rads in that thickness that have the screw guards. I'm sure there are others too. I'd suggest contacting @akira749 regarding your rad. EK has incredible customer service so I'd recommend going that route first. I hope things work out for you!


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> EK might have a QC problem with badge placement then. Your probably going to have to disassemble it to be sure, but I would post in the EK forum and get thier blessing first to ensure you don't void warranty.


I posted in the EK forum but no response from EK as of yet....

@Wolfsbora Not so sure about those words in the same sentence EK... Incredible... customer service. Judging by how they treated me this week im gonna vote hell no on any level of customer service.

With that being said most vendors wont cover something caused by physical damage but you never no, good luck man, I feel for ya.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Yeah the badge comes preinstalled, thats why I was wondering if mine was assembled wrong from EK
> The manual specifically states "Carefully identify the direction of the flow in your circuit. For the EK-VGA Supremacy series water block to operate properly it is mandatory to use the dedicated INLET/OUTLET
> openings as shown on picture below"
> Not sure what you mean by "without input" but its not labeled anywhere on the block
> 
> @Aussiejuggalo, I use my front as intakes and my top as exhaust along with a rear exhaust


Did you got the block new mate? It looks like since the sticker still have the blue film protection. In any case the position of the sticker should not affect the position of the in and out on the block. I was just asking because if someone ever disassemble the block would be wise to check if the mount of top on block is in the correct orientation. If you are worried you can certainly dissemble it and mount up again making sure everything is peachy. I would also test it outside the card just to make sure flow is good and there is no leak.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrumpyAl*
> 
> Argghh! Quick question - I've just had my second EK rad leak on my new rig. I (thought I was) sure that screw lengths are correct and there's no visible damage to the core but I'm not about to try a third attempt with the same component in there.
> 
> Is there a generally accepted best quality choice that comes with a guard so the screws can't possibly punch into the core? I'm after 240 by 60mm.
> 
> Irks me that the most expensive option (at my retailer anyway) has no bolts guards when my AIO corsair h100i's dinky little rad has them.
> 
> This is my first loop so feel free to point out potentially rookie mistakes!


The way I test the length of a screw Is take my fan put it on top of the rad off the rad put the screw thru the fan at one edge of the radiator make sure it is not hitting the cores. You can use at least one washer if the screw is slightly to long. This probably sounds better in practice then trying to explain it in words.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Did you got the block new mate? It looks like since the sticker still have the blue film protection. In any case the position of the sticker should not affect the position of the in and out on the block. I was just asking because if someone ever disassemble the block would be wise to check if the mount of top on block is in the correct orientation. If you are worried you can certainly dissemble it and mount up again making sure everything is peachy. I would also test it outside the card just to make sure flow is good and there is no leak.


Yeah its brand new, I checked it out and its the same as the manual, Internally anyway, Im leak testing now all seems well so far no leaks. Thanks.
This looks like crap with the uniblock installed. The reason for 2 colors tubing Im thinkin bout changin to black when FCB is released.



Im curious about tubing with plasticizer issues, if I flush the loop will the tubing continue to dump plasticzer again and again
or is it like a one time thing from the manufacturing process or something? Everyone said Primochill fixed their issues but I can confirm they have not.


----------



## brazilianloser

So going to start on some bending but just wanted to see if anyone got some opinions or recomendations.

Below the finished product prior to pipes.



And it will be my first time bending so any obscure opinions not usually talked about it will be apreciated it as well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> So going to start on some bending but just wanted to see if anyone got some opinions or recomendations.
> 
> Below the finished product prior to pipes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it will be my first time bending so any obscure opinions not usually talked about it will be apreciated it as well.


Kinda wish the Picture wasn't tilted. I feel like a dog looking at something crazy over here.

It appears you have the loop to be made with the shortest bends/runs possible. That is key.

TCO


----------



## brazilianloser




----------



## emsj86

Need some help. I have a ek xe rad. I have two bitspower L fittings and two bp mini valves. I have a few 10mm and 5mm extenders (male to female for 10mm and make to make for 5mm) I want to connect the two ports while having a mini valve in between than the other mini pointing out. That way I can open the one I. Between the two ports on the rad and than the other allowing for entire loop to drain. Has anyone done this and have any idea what fittings I may need or can use to connect in between the two ports.
I was thinking an sli fitting would work as it can be opened to go larger or smaller. I out would help thanks guys


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Looks like the only option. Unless you run both inlet and out let from the Cpu to the Gpu and Run both rads together.

TCO


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the only option. Unless you run both inlet and out let from the Cpu to the Gpu and Run both rads together.
> 
> TCO


Yeah exactly what I was thinking. Trying to take my sweet time on this one to make sure I do it right and it looks good.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That rig looks almost very similar just like a YouTuber guy i watch.


----------



## RickRockerr

Just finished my latest build.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Haft to ask once again^^

Your personal opinion about NB eloop and EK Vardar?

I`m about to order, but i don`t really know which to choose









Also, if someone has a tip about a 120mm fan that will be used as Intake (at the back of a define r5) Thanks!


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> So going to start on some bending but just wanted to see if anyone got some opinions or recomendations.
> 
> Below the finished product prior to pipes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it will be my first time bending so any obscure opinions not usually talked about it will be apreciated it as well.


Have you thought about rotating your cpu block 180 so your inlet and outlets aren't crossing (for lack of better term).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Yeah exactly what I was thinking. *Trying to take my sweet time on this one to make sure I do it right and it looks good*.










That's what I like to hear.

TCO


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> That rig looks almost very similar just like a YouTuber guy i watch.


Link please... Maybe I can get some ideas.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Have you thought about rotating your cpu block 180 so your inlet and outlets aren't crossing (for lack of better term).


Guess I need to investigate what kind of effects that will have on the 5820k... temperatures wise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickRockerr*
> 
> Just finished my latest build.


Nice and neat for how small that is man. Good stuff.

So yeah my primochill PETG is getting scratched up very easily. HELP? Is there something out there I can use to buff those scratches out or something of the sort. I have only done so far the front rad to res piece which is a tiny straight piece. I was able to cut it without causing a single scratch but when putting it in just by rotating the fittings it marked and made lines all over the tubing.


----------



## fast_fate

Normal and after a couple









UT60 280mm


----------



## OGBeandip

Started testing the new EK F3-140ER fans and so far I havent gotten defects. Was the clicking noise at max RPM or low RPM?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Started testing the new EK F3-140ER fans and so far I havent gotten defects. Was the clicking noise at max RPM or low RPM?


I think only one of my 140Er's made a clicking sound, but it was at max speed. I tested them using the paper clip test on the 24 pin cables and the sata connected to my Corsair link Commander Mini. The EK CEO said that it was when the fans were at low RPM. I cant change the speed yet because my PC isn't ready yet, so when I get it all up and running, ill test mine then.

PPCS said that I don't have to worry about the RMA 30 days because I will be backed no matter what beacuase of the issue. They just said that once I test them, regardless of how long its been, I will be backed.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I think only one of my 140Er's made a clicking sound, but it was at max speed. I tested them using the paper clip test on the 24 pin cables and the sata connected to my Corsair link Commander Mini. The EK CEO said that it was when the fans were at low RPM. I cant change the speed yet because my PC isn't ready yet, so when I get it all up and running, ill test mine then.
> 
> PPCS said that I don't have to worry about the RMA 30 days because I will be backed no matter what beacuase of the issue. They just said that once I test them, regardless of how long its been, I will be backed.


Hopefully they extend the same support to me. I dont have a motherboard lying around to test them on and dont want to dismantle my current system to test them at low RPM. So for now its just max RPM testing. And Ill have to deal with PPCS too since I ordered from them, and I know they dont cover return shipping.

This build is really starting to piss me off lately. Bad motherboard, then bad fans.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Hopefully they extend the same support to me. I dont have a motherboard lying around to test them on and dont want to dismantle my current system to test them at low RPM. So for now its just max RPM testing. And Ill have to deal with PPCS too since I ordered from them, and I know they dont cover return shipping.
> 
> This build is really starting to piss me off lately. Bad motherboard, then bad fans.


I would worry if I were you. I'm very positive that the warranty is for all Customers who bought the 140's from PPCS. But yes, you're correct about the shipping. I had to pay to ship back one of my 120ER's that had a clicking sound. I should have my computer up and running within a week, so hopefully it's only the one that has the issue.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I would worry if I were you. I'm very positive that the warranty is for all Customers who bought the 140's from PPCS. But yes, you're correct about the shipping. I had to pay to ship back one of my 120ER's that had a clicking sound. I should have my computer up and running within a week, so hopefully it's only the one that has the issue.


If there was something wrong with an item I ordered, I never have had to pay return shipping. They always sent me a return label.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> If there was something wrong with an item I ordered, I never have had to pay return shipping. They always sent me a return label.


From PPCS? They told me they only pay to ship back an item if they send the wrong one.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> From PPCS? They told me they only pay to ship back an item if they send the wrong one.


I guess one of my issues was that. And they must not pay return shipping but. hey pay to ship to you, I guess I didn't have to ship anything back for the other problem, they just sent me something. That sucks that they don't do return shipping even though it's not our fault if something doesn't work


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I guess one of my issues was that. And they must not pay return shipping but. hey pay to ship to you, I guess I didn't have to ship anything back for the other problem, they just sent me something. That sucks that they don't do return shipping even though it's not our fault if something doesn't work


Correct. When I had my first (and only) RMA through them, they said they only pay to ship BACK an item if they accidentally gave you the wrong part. Then they will pay to ship the item back TO you. So they will pay to ship the item to you.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Link please... Maybe I can get some ideas.


Here yah go bud:


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> EK might have a QC problem with badge placement then. Your probably going to have to disassemble it to be sure, but I would post in the EK forum and get thier blessing first to ensure you don't void warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> I posted in the EK forum but no response from EK as of yet....
> 
> @Wolfsbora Not so sure about those words in the same sentence EK... Incredible... customer service. Judging by how they treated me this week im gonna vote hell no on any level of customer service.
> 
> With that being said most vendors wont cover something caused by physical damage but you never no, good luck man, I feel for ya.
Click to expand...

0
It's weekend. You posted on 29th right? Wait Monday for response.


----------



## Radnad

Just upgraded from soft tubing to rigid and have 1-2c BETTER temps! (Will be updating my rebuild log soon). Without getting into the specifics of my setup yet, I'm just curious what the more experienced water coolers think the reason is, or if anyone has experienced the same thing?

I'm a bit perplexed tbh...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just upgraded from soft tubing to rigid and have 1-2c BETTER temps! (Will be updating my rebuild log soon). Without getting into the specifics of my setup yet, I'm just curious what the more experienced water coolers think the reason is, or if anyone has experienced the same thing?
> 
> I'm a bit perplexed tbh...


Pretty sure the tubing wouldn't make a difference to your temps, probably cooler ambient temps.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just upgraded from soft tubing to rigid and have 1-2c BETTER temps! (Will be updating my rebuild log soon). Without getting into the specifics of my setup yet, I'm just curious what the more experienced water coolers think the reason is, or if anyone has experienced the same thing?
> 
> I'm a bit perplexed tbh...


Could be a small reduction in resistance/ slightly higher flow rate through your blocks.


----------



## OGBeandip

I cleaned out my radiators today (distilled water and blitz part 1). It ended with me being pleasantly surprised.

The new Alphacool radiators seem to be much cleaner than previous generations. I got more debris from my EK XE than I did from the Alphacool XT45.

However Alphacool can still use some work on their finish. The finish chips very easy, and this was apparent before I even started cleaning them.


----------



## TrumpyAl

I figured out why my EK 240XE radiator was leaking and it had nothing to do with my mounting.

The end plate, with screws removed.


Look what I see!


So I peel the whole frame off and...


Unexpectedly, the tanks hadn't been punctured (yet), but it looks like the pressure has triggered the solder to fail after a few dozen heat cycles.


I'll crack open the other one too and post pics - presumably there's a whole batch here in Australia with this issue - although the identical EK rad that I'm running on my front panel is fine....so far.

*EDIT*
The identical model rad that failed a couple of weeks ago had a rather battered end tank that had also been assaulted by the end plate of the frame...


Exact point of failure on this rad, again, the end plates themselves weren't punctured, but I'd wager that the pressure triggered the solder to fail.


Best I get in touch with them. Ideally I'd like a refund and I'm now not likely to rest easy with EK rads in my rig. But I'd accept a replacement of all three and if they pass my inspection I'd reluctantly fit them.

Let's see how I go eh?


----------



## sdmf74

I wanted to mention this hear cause lots of members so anyone with an *ASUS ROG FRONT BASE* with the annoying noise/feedback issue through headphones while gaming listen up! I have an amazing fix, thanks to DaleR in the Asus forum.
Its a pretty easy fix and the audio is amazing now. If you can hear your mouse causing feedback through your headphones while gaming GO HERE . It was so unbearable I couldnt use my sennheisser headset but now its crystal clear. It requires a soldering iron & takes like 5 minutes.

@TrumpyAl thats crazy, have you opened a ticket with EK yet?
Mental note to self... dont buy EK radiator


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like it was assembled with the incorrect length screws. That's no bueno.









Looks like I will be checking my Rads first thing when my order shows up. Ordering next weekeend.









In EKs defense however it could have been done by overzealous Aus customs inspectors. I don't know since I am not there.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like it was assembled with the incorrect length screws. That's no bueno.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I will be checking my Rads first thing when my order shows up. Ordering next weekeend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In EKs defense however it could have been done by overzealous Aus customs inspectors. I don't know since I am not there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think the distance between outer plate and end tank is different in this model. On the EK PE rads I have that would be impossible to happen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrumpyAl*
> 
> I figured out why my EK 240XE radiator was leaking and it had nothing to do with my mounting.
> 
> The end plate, with screws removed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look what I see!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I peel the whole frame off and...
> 
> 
> Unexpectedly, the tanks hadn't been punctured (yet), but it looks like the pressure has triggered the solder to fail after a few dozen heat cycles.
> 
> 
> I'll crack open the other one too and post pics - presumably there's a whole batch here in Australia with this issue - although the identical EK rad that I'm running on my front panel is fine....so far.
> 
> *EDIT*
> The identical model rad that failed a couple of weeks ago had a rather battered end tank that had also been assaulted by the end plate of the frame...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exact point of failure on this rad, again, the end plates themselves weren't punctured, but I'd wager that the pressure triggered the solder to fail.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best I get in touch with them. Ideally I'd like a refund and I'm now not likely to rest easy with EK rads in my rig. But I'd accept a replacement of all three and if they pass my inspection I'd reluctantly fit them.
> 
> Let's see how I go eh?


That is an interesting finding. Make sure to point this out to EK. Not only should them replace your rads but I think is worth looking deeper into this to see if was an error on assembling this particular batch of rads or worse. +rep.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think the distance between outer plate and end tank is different in this model. On the EK PE rads I have that would be impossible to happen.
> That is an interesting finding. Make sure to point this out to EK. Not only should them replace your rads but I think is worth looking deeper into this to see if was an error on assembling this particular batch of rads or worse. +rep.


It is terrible seeing that end tank in such a state - especially 2 in a row








After taking apart the PE and SE and finding noting unusual I didn't bother with the XE.
I'm now thinking that I will put that on top of list of things to do.
Pics tomorrow of internals of the XE 360 and XE 240








and suppose I should take apart a CE for a little look see also


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thanks for the heads up, was going to use EK's SE240's on the X2M build. Looks like back to the drawing board


----------



## VSG

My XE rad had stripped screws so I couldn't even take it apart. Very bad luck, if that is it, to have two in a row having the same issue. I will open up the WE and see how it is. The SE here is fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> My XE rad had stripped screws so I couldn't even take it apart. Very bad luck, if that is it, to have two in a row having the same issue. I will open up the WE and see how it is. The SE here is fine.


The screws they use are bad....I retapped the PE's for LUMO...and the XSPC AX screws,they are crap too


----------



## Ceadderman

Stripped screws are unlikely without second hand interference. Not doubting you VSG as you're stand up. But for a machine screw to have stripped threads you gotta be ham fisted in the assembly process or somewhere along the line someone else got their hands on it and overdid it on the amount of torque applied to the screws. No absolution this time though. Might even have happened at EK, but one thing is sure... it's not sposed to have stripped screws.

~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Those images make me pretty nervous as I just mounted my new XE480


----------



## VSG

Stripped head in my case, not threads. These rads use screws with Hex 2mm heads on the ends as far as I remember, it's been a bit of a blur this summer I will admit.


----------



## fast_fate

They're actually a Torx head screw








The real issue is that my XE360 has exactly the same manufacturing/assembly defect








This one came direct from Slovenia, so it's not just a batch that is in Australia
Oh Boy !!!!

Either Stren or myself will put out something in the next 24hrs in the usual place advising of the issue.
In the mean time, I would suggest anyone with an XE series rad contacting EK and get confirmation/approval to dismantle and check prior to installing.
If it's already in the loop, hate to say it, but you're going to want to take it out ASAP to check - it's only a matter of time before disaster strikes otherwise.


----------



## VSG

Oh dear, that's not good.

Torx T-20? I am away from home so can't check mine, but I think it would be good to see people check their rads to be sure and I remember.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> They're actually a Torx head screw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real issue is that my XE360 has exactly the same manufacturing/assembly defect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one came direct from Slovenia, so it's not just a batch that is in Australia
> Oh Boy !!!!
> 
> Either Stren or myself will put out something in the next 24hrs in the usual place advising of the issue.
> In the mean time, I would suggest anyone with an XE series rad contacting EK and get confirmation/approval to dismantle and check prior to installing.
> If it's already in the loop, hate to say it, but you're going to want to take it out ASAP to check - it's only a matter of time before disaster strikes otherwise.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh boy...I had a nagging feeling about this when I saw the first pics. The end tank definitely have a shallow shape that put it close to the screws on the external faceplate. This confirms it. Time to another recall EK and to change the design ASAP. Or at the very least a through investigation if the problem affects all or only a portion of the rads out there. @derickwm if you see this better talk to EK Ceo and technical staff mate.


----------



## VSG

F_F: Do you recall seeing this when you had first opened up that XE 360 for your review? I can't tell from the angle of the rad in the review.


----------



## Ceadderman

How do the heads get stripped though?









I hope this is only limited to XE. Really hated the last time an issue raised its ugly head regarding EK.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> How do the heads get stripped though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this is only limited to XE. Really hated the last time an issue raised its ugly head regarding EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It certainly does not affect the PE rads. I think FF mentioned the other one (SE) too he examined and did not noticed anything. So, at this point it seems only affect the XE series...


----------



## fast_fate

I forgot that I had even opened it up,
BUT no I did not notice it back then, which is a worry in itself








Just checked the dismantled unit - all screws are the same length (used at each end) so I didn't put back together incorrectly with screws in wrong end or anything like that.
I really can't believe I never noticed it previously, but do not see how I could of caused the issue re-assembling.
I just took apart and put back together a few times, and things only clip together one way, so can't get anything wrong.
The screws are just too long - and exactly like TrumpyAl's.

I believe there is a real issue, and I am so sorry to everyone that I never noticed it before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It certainly does not affect the PE rads. I think FF mentioned the other one (SE) too he examined and did not noticed anything. So, at this point it seems only affect the XE series...


I got myself confused with what I posted earlier about which I took apart and what I didn't.
I never took apart the SE, because I didn't notice anything out of order with the PE and XE








"While I did not disassemble the SE it can be easily dis-assembled allowing for custom painting of the panels.........." ect ect


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I forgot that I had even opened it up,
> BUT no I did not notice it back then, which is a worry in itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just checked the dismantled unit - all screws are the same length (used at each end) so I didn't put back together incorrectly with screws in wrong end or anything like that.
> I really can't believe I never noticed it previously, but do not see how I could of caused the issue re-assembling.
> I just took apart and put back together a few times, and things only clip together one way, so can't get anything wrong.
> The screws are just too long - and exactly like TrumpyAl's.
> 
> I believe there is a real issue, and I am so sorry to everyone that I never noticed it before.


Just so we are on the same track, you opened the PE and XE but not the SE for the reviews right? If you may be so kind, could I bother you enough to request opening up your SE, PE (again) and CE?


----------



## Ceadderman

Well tbh Fate it's something easily missed.

Especially when you're used to solid Coolsrteams crossing your review table. Don't be hard on yourself about it. Any number of us would likely have missed it as well. So nothing to forgive imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just so we are on the same track, you opened the PE and XE but not the SE for the reviews right? If you may be so kind, could I bother you enough to request opening up your SE, PE (again) and CE?


Yep, same track, and will strip a couple down now
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well tbh Fate it's something easily missed.
> 
> Especially when you're used to solid Coolsrteams crossing your review table. Don't be hard on yourself about it. Any number of us would likely have missed it as well. So nothing to forgive imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks Mate


----------



## VSG

Cheers. The more the sample size for this, the better. I will open up the XSPC AX and the EK PE/SE/WE here also when I get home later, and give the XE another try.


----------



## OGBeandip

I just got my XE480 opened up and the end tank is also in the same state as the others posted in this thread. Time to contact EK.

Im losing faith between this and the recent 140mm vardar recall.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I just got my XE480 opened up and the end tank is also in the same state as the others posted in this thread. Time to contact EK.
> 
> Im losing faith between this and the recent 140mm vardar recall.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I just got my XE480 opened up and the end tank is also in the same state as the others posted in this thread. Time to contact EK.
> 
> Im losing faith between this and the recent 140mm vardar recall.


How many of your Vardars make the clicking noise? Have you had a chance to run them at 50% speed yet?

Sorry to hear that you have another issue to deal with though. I certainly would not want to have it happen to me, so close to the Event an all.









~Ceadder


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> How many of your Vardars make the clicking noise? Have you had a chance to run them at 50% speed yet?
> 
> Sorry to hear that you have another issue to deal with though. I certainly would not want to have it happen to me, so close to the Event an all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ive only run them at 100% speed.

2 out of 16 had issues at 100%. However 50% speed will be tested within a few weeks and I really hope there arent anymore issues.

The inconvenience alone lately may deter me from EK products in the future.


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh, don't let it get to ye. If everything ran perfectly out of the box/off the showroom floor, life would be boring. Out of how many units they've sold, two of their newest lineup (barring disturbing news from VSG and Fate ofc) are the only products to suffer from issues. That's not too bad tbh. Unfortunately for you, you happened to get both of them at the same time.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

PE 360 - not affected
CE 280 - not affected

SE 360 - screws just touch the end tank - small scratches on one side, nothing to speak of really - but something is there, just.

XE 240 - no issues like the XE360 - screws don't touch the end tank at all - atm I don't see what the difference between the 2 are.
had some other issue that was fixed at manufacturing stage though - lol, big solder spot on one corner - must have failed leak test 1st time round.

XE360 - as previously posted, has major issues.
Amazing really that it never did leak through testing even with the RD-30 pounding the fluid through.

The 360 was a per-release sample.
The 240 arrived separately a few weeks ago (long after the 360 arrived) and is possibly from a different batch, but really don't know.


----------



## VSG

That's good info, and tells that a definite conclusion can't be made just yet. Dented end tanks need not leak either (yet) so it's not like the rad is beyond use now. Either way, I would talk to EK if the end tank looks bad.


----------



## fast_fate

*EDIT:* the CE 280 and PE 360 are facing wrong way in the picture - but neither are effected


----------



## TrumpyAl

Great to see this being thoroughly investigated - what a great resource this is thread is. For the industry themselves as well as us enthusiasts.

My EK fanboy status is intact, despite this and the fact that their choice of UNC 6-32 mounting bolts severely limits bolt availability for me in Aus - in the end I had to drill and re-tap a metric thread to mount them using fan grills on the front of my Corsair 780T with 35mm bolts.


----------



## VSG

Thanks for the pic, f_f, + rep


----------



## emsj86

So I'm i should take my ek 360 xe out of my loop ASAP?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I'm i should take my ek 360 xe out of my loop ASAP?


I would definitely be checking it out, and if you don't do it now that nagging thought will always be at the back of your mind.
Please report on your findings and post pics if possible.


----------



## brazilianloser

When I said I was taking it slow I really meant it...








Two days in and I got two bends and one little straight piece in. But to be honest I do have a lot of other things going on... So its my first time doing bends going okay? And need help with what to do to get rid of scuffs/scratches in PETG..?


----------



## Archea47

Looking good brazilianloser - the tube from the top to the front rad came out real clean


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Looking good brazilianloser - the tube from the top to the front rad came out real clean


Thank you. That one was tricky due to how close the bends were and I was initially trying to do two 90 degree bends. But two 45ish seemed to be a hell lot easier and cleaner looking.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> *EDIT:* the CE 280 and PE 360 are facing wrong way in the picture - but neither are effected


That pic illustrate what I meant. Notice how the PE in the middle have the borders of the end tank with a much deeper angle that the others on the left side. That is why I think (if all sizes of the PE series are like that - mine two 240 mm and the one 360 mm were all like that) the PE is free of any issue.

Thks FF


----------



## OGBeandip

Images of a 480 XE radiator.

The area where the screws are isnt as dented as others, but the paint is chipped around the screws and the screws make contact. Ive also noticed a small leak coming from just under the tank.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just upgraded from soft tubing to rigid and have 1-2c BETTER temps! (Will be updating my rebuild log soon). Without getting into the specifics of my setup yet, I'm just curious what the more experienced water coolers think the reason is, or if anyone has experienced the same thing?
> 
> I'm a bit perplexed tbh...
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure the tubing wouldn't make a difference to your temps, probably cooler ambient temps.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Could be a small reduction in resistance/ slightly higher flow rate through your blocks.


Thanks for the feedback. It's pretty much a mystery to me, but not complaining. If anything I would have a thought a 1-2c increase in temps due to the elbows, but very happy with it!


----------



## Ceadderman

Judging from OGBDs pics, the core of the XE 360 needs to be 2mm shorter overall if it's to have tanks that big. Maybe even 2mm offset at both ends. Cause it's the tanks causing the issue imho.

~Ceadder


----------



## BrjSan

So ........................... where did all the EK reps here go ......







suddenly, and why nod body is posting this in the EK CLUB thread.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> So ........................... where did all the EK reps here go ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> suddenly, and why nod body is posting this in the EK CLUB thread.


it is weekend mate...


----------



## emsj86

So I'll check this problem out tomorrow just got home from the Kevin Hart concert at the link and it's too late 2am here in good old philadelphia. But if there is an issuse not sure what to do as do I send it back to ppc even though I had it over a month or to ek. It would suck seeing as it's not like I can say oh send me another one as the issue hasn't been fixed yet and ppc I can see saying to me is have to go through ek. Basically long story short if it goes how I think I'm out 100 dollars bc I can't wait a month or more for a fix. Idk it's late and I'm getting ahead of myself. EDIT: so just watched daz mod YouTube video and he takes his 360 completely apart and no damage shown. Hopefully this is the case on mine as well as others and not a problem for a lot of people. Fingers crossed but figured I'd mention it as if his wasn't damaged you'd think they have a way to have it done right or possibly they just used wrong sized screws on a big batch


----------



## Juthos

New color for bits fittings:


----------



## sdmf74

Can you guys take a look at this short video HERE and tell me if this looks normal for a D5pwm pump @ full rpm? This is my first D5 pump and it seems a little weak mostly because when I was flushing/refilling my
loop it was a pain to get the flow started, I had to cycle the pump on/off several times & tilt the case before It would start to fill the loop & spill out into the reservoir.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Can you guys take a look at this short video HERE and tell me if this looks normal for a D5pwm pump @ full rpm? This is my first D5 pump and it seems a little weak mostly because when I was flushing/refilling my
> loop it was a pain to get the flow started, I had to cycle the pump on/off several times & tilt the case before It would start to fill the loop & spill out into the reservoir.


Looks normal to me mate. Do you have any flow meter? IF so how much is the flow? How many blocks? Just fill the reservoir up so that the air stop getting back to the pump


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Judging from OGBDs pics, the core of the XE 360 needs to be 2mm shorter overall if it's to have tanks that big. Maybe even 2mm offset at both ends. Cause it's the tanks causing the issue imho.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Please, Call me beandip.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Looks normal to me mate. Do you have any flow meter? IF so how much is the flow? How many blocks? Just fill the reservoir up so that the air stop getting back to the pump


No unfortunately no flow meter, thought about getting one but not sure which one to get. Its just an apogee XL and a EK vga Universal block + 2 rads but Im using several 90's.
Yeah Ill fill her up more, I just installed the block yesterday and flushed the loop so I wanted to kinda monitor the flow for a bit (it doesnt create bubbles @ lower rpm). Thanks man I just figured these pumps should
have a little more pressure/flow if for nothing else just to make bleeding easier


----------



## TrumpyAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> So ........................... where did all the EK reps here go ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> suddenly, and why nod body is posting this in the EK CLUB thread.


A rep was in touch with me very shortly after posting and I've logged a call with support.

If this is the first they've heard of it, it's likely a significant concern to them and they'll (likely) be looking to get input from the top prior to any response.

IMO the scene needs them, flawed or not. Hopefully it's not a bigger problem than they can handle.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrumpyAl*
> 
> A rep was in touch with me very shortly after posting and I've logged a call with support.
> 
> If this is the first they've heard of it, it's likely a significant concern to them and they'll (likely) be looking to get input from the top prior to any response.
> 
> IMO the scene needs them, flawed or not. Hopefully it's not a bigger problem than they can handle.


I took a look at the Daz Mode video before I went to bed (and slept very poorly)




At 10.30 minutes we can clearly see the end tank not damaged after dis-assembly.
I still think it's very very unlikely that I could have missed something so obvious when I took the XE 360 apart for the review.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I woke up having a possible theory/cause for the way the end tank now is.
*Did anybody with effected rads do an air leak test ??*
I can't say for certain that I did or not, but I think I did.
Trying to find a common link that could lead us to the cause, as I my mind refuses to believe they were assembled this way. (Daz's video shows this to not be the case)


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I took a look at the Daz Mode video before I went to bed (and slept very poorly)
> I still think it's very very unlikely that I could have missed something so obvious when I took the XE 360 apart for the review.
> 
> I woke up having a possible theory/cause for the way the end tank now is.
> *Did anybody with effected rads do an air leak test ??*
> I can't say for certain that I did or not, but I think I did.
> Trying to find a common link that could lead us to the cause, as I my mind refuses to believe they were assembled this way. (Daz's video shows this to not be the case)


Mine has the issue and it was not air tested. Its been cleaned with distilled water and blitz part one. Then the tanks were filled with water for leak testing, which it failed. So no air testing here.


----------



## TrumpyAl

Nope, no air leak testing on either of mine.
I cant imagine that they would grow that far just from the modest operating temps either.

Good thought though, worth following up on.

The pattern of the witness marks will tell us it's it's during assembly or afterwards. I'll get the macro lens out and take some pics.


----------



## Domler

I have a 360 xe at home unused. Waiting to rebuild. I'll take it apart when I get home and check for damage. It did feel loose when I took it out of the package the first time. I just figured cause you can take the housing off. Now I am worried.


----------



## fisher6

Can EK clear coolant be mixed with distilled water?
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ekoolant-clear-premix-1000ml

Thanks


----------



## emsj86

Any way the ek 360 xe was loose and during shipping or elsewhere the screws slammed against the end cap


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Judging from OGBDs pics, the core of the XE 360 needs to be 2mm shorter overall if it's to have tanks that big. Maybe even 2mm offset at both ends. Cause it's the tanks causing the issue imho.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please, Call me beandip.
Click to expand...

You got it beandip.









Yeah I too thought about the Air testing aspect of things. But if it were that the bulges would certainly look differ as the paint wouldn't look the way it does on the tanks. Paint isn't that flexible. You'd likely see the metal underneath the paint from cracking fissures in the paint.









Pretty sure that the reason you don't see this in DMs bid is it's batch related. Can't be sure because I don't know if EK sponsored his review but that's just what it's looking like.









~Ceadder


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Has anyone had problems with performance pcs picking the wrong stuff? So far my last 4 orders has been wrong. First order I bought a bunch of 12mm petg and they sent me 16mm acrylic instead. I ordered a bunch of white heat shrink and they send me black instead. I ordered a bunch of stop fittings in chrome and they send me the black ones. I can sent each thing back but it's not cost effective for me to send it back because of the shipping back to them and having to wait another week to get the new stuff . I'm not sure who's doing the picking but so far it's the same guy messing it up each time. And apparently they have multiple people looks at it but I think they only sign it and don't even check


Actually yes. I recently ordered a $5 bottle of the Aurora 2 booster from them. I got a 1ltr bottle of the aurora 2 pre mix. Lol. I still wrote them a email and told them what had happened and asked if they would mind if I kept that instead. They said yes so, I was happy. I've been really happy with Performance PCs. Ive spoken to their sales rep (I think his name is Duke) and they've been excellent.


----------



## Ceadderman

You still got the booster though right?









PM me the name. I don't want the guy picking my parts. I have to get them and in time to get it together, finish my mod and and go to the Event. I got no time for such tomfoolery.









~Ceadder


----------



## HexagonRabbit

I have no idea of what his name is. I threw the slip away. And no, didnt get the booster. I could have if I wanted, but the 1ltr bottle of the premix was better. Especially for $5


----------



## Ceadderman

Blast.









Maybe I can sweet talk Duke to get his expertiseNess to pick my parts.









Booster was joke however.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> I have no idea of what his name is. I threw the slip away. And no, didnt get the booster. I could have if I wanted, but the 1ltr bottle of the premix was better. Especially for $5


check your email receipt and your order on perfpc. i know the email has it and the order history in your account should too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shoot I'm a box hoarder. Unless an order was wrong, you can generally find the slip where it was the date of shipment.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I just got my umpteenth PPC order Saturday, all have been 100% correct. I can post the picker/packer initials from that one. I've never really paid any attention, they've never messed one of my orders up.

As for radiators, I've never had any of the newer EK rads with the removable aluminum shrouds. I really liked the old school EK rads like the XTX series, so I gave HW Labs a shot this last time.


----------



## TrumpyAl

http://imgur.com/v0CQetK http://imgur.com/Y5kZRFl

http://imgur.com/dzbzbOZ http://imgur.com/oPi9N1x

http://imgur.com/9eEAXq5 http://imgur.com/0a71Te7

http://imgur.com/fE8439s http://imgur.com/qypl0Gb

Well macro or no macro I can't figure anything our from these pics!

I'll let EK worry about it - they've asked me to return them to my retailer for refund or exchange. Sadly, going to Alphacool is the only option that makes sense to me at this point.

Can anyone explain why I've never (translation: in the 8 weeks I've been into water cooling) seen Aquacomputer radiators in builds?


----------



## Kimir

I didn't disassembled my two XE360 to see if I'm affected to the issue reported, however, I did my air leak test for more than 24h at 11psi. Safe to say I don't need to tear them down?


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrumpyAl*
> 
> http://imgur.com/v0CQetK http://imgur.com/Y5kZRFl
> 
> http://imgur.com/dzbzbOZ http://imgur.com/oPi9N1x
> 
> http://imgur.com/9eEAXq5 http://imgur.com/0a71Te7
> 
> http://imgur.com/fE8439s http://imgur.com/qypl0Gb
> 
> Well macro or no macro I can't figure anything our from these pics!
> 
> I'll let EK worry about it - they've asked me to return them to my retailer for refund or exchange. Sadly, going to Alphacool is the only option that makes sense to me at this point.
> 
> Can anyone explain why I've never (translation: in the 8 weeks I've been into water cooling) seen Aquacomputer radiators in builds?


Generally speaking a lot of members prefer HWLabs. I haven't tried aquacomputers stuff personally.


----------



## Ceadderman

@Trumpy...

I can. The core length is too long. It's not short enough to allow the screws clearance. Cause the only way those kind of marks get made is by screw contact. So the screws are either too long or the core is. I figure the cores are if the if the screws are all the same length from one batch to the next. So likely the tanks were out of tolerance or the interior core is.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I didn't disassembled my two XE360 to see if I'm affected to the issue reported, however, I did my air leak test for more than 24h at 11psi. Safe to say I don't need to tear them down?


Nope not safe to say at all. I would tear it down and check to be certain. You may find you didn't have to, but then again it would be best to avoid niggling concerns.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

I'll open them up then, if it's only the 4 screws in the back, should be easy as cake on the bench table lol.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I'll open them up then, if it's only the 4 screws in the back, should be easy as cake on the bench table lol.


The side panels need to be unlatched first, (after taking the screws out)
then slide the end cover off to one side or the other - not just pull it off the end.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The side panels need to be unlatched first, (after taking the screws out)
> then slide the end cover off to one side or the other - not just pull it off the end.


Roger that, still easier on a bench table setup like mine than in a rig.








thanks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I had a chance to see the new Alphacool expandable AIO kits,little pumps on each block that are totally silent like the grave......something from Alphacool that I would consider using in violation of my own rule.....



Get rid of the stock rad and 'tube' and have massive redundancy built in,will go down well with the SFF crowd I think.

Also,I found out why Alphacool change their side stickers,each colour signifies a revision change. Blue is the most current.

LUMO...



And me......


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I'm out of the loop here...

What's a "Goat Simulator"? Or do I want to know?


----------



## Ceadderman

So you're the one on the Left B?









I keed I keed.









~Ceadder


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I just got my umpteenth PPC order Saturday, all have been 100% correct. I can post the picker/packer initials from that one. I've never really paid any attention, they've never messed one of my orders up.
> 
> As for radiators, I've never had any of the newer EK rads with the removable aluminum shrouds. I really liked the old school EK rads like the XTX series, so I gave HW Labs a shot this last time.


Over my 8 years of water cooling I have only used Hardware Labs Radiators and have been very happy with them. I thought about trying a different brand on my new build earlier this year, but found myself buying what I trusted. Went with a 360GTX on top and a Nemesis L-Series 360 on the bottom and they worked out great.


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I had a chance to see the new Alphacool expandable AIO kits,little pumps on each block that are totally silent like the grave......something from Alphacool that I would consider using in violation of my own rule.....
> 
> 
> 
> Get rid of the stock rad and 'tube' and have massive redundancy built in,will go down well with the SFF crowd I think.
> 
> Also,I found out why Alphacool change their side stickers,each colour signifies a revision change. Blue is the most current.


And hows the quality looking on the blues?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'm out of the loop here...
> 
> What's a "Goat Simulator"? Or do I want to know?


Goat simulator - Look it up on steam - it allows you to emulate goats. Good stuff there


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I had a chance to see the new Alphacool expandable AIO kits,little pumps on each block that are totally silent like the grave......something from Alphacool that I would consider using in violation of my own rule.....
> 
> 
> 
> Get rid of the stock rad and 'tube' and have massive redundancy built in,will go down well with the SFF crowd I think.
> 
> Also,I found out why Alphacool change their side stickers,each colour signifies a revision change. Blue is the most current.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hows the quality looking on the blues?
Click to expand...

The ones i saw looked good,good paint and,from the little I saw in the tank,well finished.

Now its down to how the retail units look Pascal.

I wouldnt mind seeing that AIO unisink concept applied to motherboards too if im honest.


----------



## OGBeandip

Anyone know of a good 140mm fan to replace my bad EK vardars?

And how is the SR2 radiators? Thinking of picking up a 480mm to replace my XE480
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'm out of the loop here...
> 
> What's a "Goat Simulator"? Or do I want to know?


The best game ever made. Check steam.


----------



## deadwidesmile

I love the Phantek 140mm SP fan. Really nice sound pitch and moves a butt load of air.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> I love the Phantek 140mm SP fan. Really nice sound pitch and moves a butt load of air.


Im on my phone so google aint happening. Do they make an all black variant?

Ive got a bunch of the white and black ones that came with my case.


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Im on my phone so google aint happening. Do they make an all black variant?
> 
> Ive got a bunch of the white and black ones that came with my case.


Super fast google search gave me nadda on the all black.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Super fast google search gave me nadda on the all black.


No black no order.

Thanks though.


----------



## VSG

If you have to have all black 140mm rad fans, then what about the Noctua NF-A14 IPPC fans? Remove the corner pads for all black or keep them if you don't mind the dark brown accents (or plastidip).

SR2 rads are pretty good stuff, the multiport ones are almost in retail too. I got a 2 port 360mm version here and an MP 560mm version here now.


----------



## Jflisk

I can confirm the NF-A14 IPPC are nice fans I have the 3000RPM version stick to the 2000 RPM version if you decide to go this road. At 3000 RPM you can hear them or at least the air being pushed thru them. I turn mine down with a aquacomputer keeps them at max 2000 RPM.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Goat simulator - Look it up on steam - it allows you to emulate goats. Good stuff there


OK, this is strange. I owned a pygmy agouti goat for years, and it looked exactly like the gray goat with the white "saddle" in the screenshots I've seen. He was absolutely the oneriest, most destructive, but comical and agile animals I've ever seen. And smart. He had an innate knowledge of all types of gate locks. Never knew he had his own video game.

Mine looked close to this one, but had long horns and beard:



Game's:


----------



## Domler

Just got home and took a couple pics of my xe 360


When I removed the installed spacers, ports, not the flush plugs, the oring was bad.

And now I'm having trouble lining it up right for reassembly. Facepalm.


----------



## Domler

Sorry for the double post. Just came in the mail today. Time for me to test it out!!!

Just have to dissaemble my loop. Ah crap.


----------



## bundymania

New toys


















https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uD7WEqm1eA


----------



## Ceadderman

Very cool Bundy.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

For the guys with the ek 360 xe what screws where on yours. Mine our not Phillips like I've seen other mine our Allen key screws but there so small that there is no way they could have dented the end tank. Unless that is they originally put the wrong size screws in first or different batches have different screws


----------



## Ceadderman

Didn't someone say they were Torx screws? that was back a page or so an I am at work...









~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

They are hex here.


----------



## Domler

Allen screws on mine.


----------



## Ceadderman

That's what I would think too, being they are EK. But I am relatively sure that the inference was made.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Yea because two of mine our stripped the Allen key part. But using my little mini snake came Rma I can see that it's all black no brass like in the orginal poster pictures. Now I measured the screws to the distance to the rad end cap on mine and the screws out def shorter by a good amount. So this is just me thinking not proof but either originally wrong screws were installed which is my thought or certain batches core is too large but seeing how dented in they our I lean more to wrongheaded screws installed at first


----------



## Ceadderman

Entirely possible. I hope that's what it is. Maybe a green employee who didn't yet understand what they were looking at. Having worked a factory job for a short time, I know how easy that can be. Especially when things are simply dumped into a pile while you're distracted by the assembly line.









~Ceadder


----------



## Domler

Soooooo..... I had used ek-tim ectotherm on my cpu to try out a new tim since I found out attic silver 5 is so so. I thought someone said it's gelid extreme. I'm probly wrong but figured I would give it a go. So I have had that installed for 5-6 weeks.
(disclaimer) I am no expert, take my results with a grain of salt. I have, to the best of my abilities, tried to keep my experiment as controlled as possible.(disclaimer)
I started my pc and let it sit for one hour. I than ran two, back to back, runs of realbench. Ek-tim

Hotest core-68
That was yesterday.
Today, all I did was swap out the Tim. Fired up the pc and let it sit for one hour. Two runs realbench.
Thermal grizzly kryonaught

Hottest core-65
Hmmmm. Hmmmm.


----------



## longroadtrip

This is the worst of the 4 EK XE 360s I have. The screws are hex, but look like they tightened them with a torx bit.

This one is definitely going to have to go through a serious leak test as it is beyond the 30 day return window with PPCs.


----------



## Domler

Ouch.


----------



## OGBeandip

The product page for the HWLabs SR2 seems to claim a cooling capacity of 2000 watts for the 480mm radiator.

This seem high to anyone else?

EDIT: Nevermind, I found the testing conditions and its pretty optimal. 1.7gpm flow rate and a 25C Delta.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> The product page for the HWLabs SR2 seems to claim a cooling capacity of 2000 watts for the 480mm radiator.
> 
> This seem high to anyone else?


Quote:


> Test conditions: 25C ΔT ITD, 7 LPM coolant flow, 60 CFM fans. (Results may vary according to cooling system components.)
> SLI and Crossfire are trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective holders.


For that delta T, not really. That's not to say most people here will be content with that, and strive for a lower delta T value.


----------



## KShirza1

Ready for back plate and fittings.





[BUILD LOG] Cs-X Project [Nothing to hide] - Caselabs S8S (X99, GTX 980 Ti, Custom loop)


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For that delta T, not really. That's not to say most people here will be content with that, and strive for a lower delta T value.


Yeah i read that too late and edited my post. Way too high of a delta for me. Im shooting for 15 max. 10 target.


----------



## KShirza1

Aquacomputer aqualis 100m DDC with raised mounting plate to match the motherboard tray. Rubber washers between chassis mounting for vibration.







[BUILD LOG] Cs-X Project [Nothing to hide] - Caselabs S8S (X99, 980Ti, Watercooling) LEVEL=OCD


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I had a chance to see the new Alphacool expandable AIO kits,little pumps on each block that are totally silent like the grave......something from Alphacool that I would consider using in violation of my own rule.....
> 
> Get rid of the stock rad and 'tube' and have massive redundancy built in,will go down well with the SFF crowd I think.


Bneg approving of an Alphacool product? I'd better get some sleep, must be dreaming.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Yeah i read that too late and edited my post. Way too high of a delta for me. Im shooting for 15 max. 10 target.


That's why most folks don't try to shed 2KW from a single 480. But if it was tasked with something along the lines of 350~400 watts, then a 10 or 15 ° delta might be reasonable?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> PE 360 - not affected
> CE 280 - not affected
> 
> SE 360 - screws just touch the end tank - small scratches on one side, nothing to speak of really - but something is there, just.
> 
> XE 240 - no issues like the XE360 - screws don't touch the end tank at all - atm I don't see what the difference between the 2 are.
> had some other issue that was fixed at manufacturing stage though - lol, big solder spot on one corner - must have failed leak test 1st time round.
> 
> XE360 - as previously posted, has major issues.
> Amazing really that it never did leak through testing even with the RD-30 pounding the fluid through.
> 
> The 360 was a per-release sample.
> The 240 arrived separately a few weeks ago (long after the 360 arrived) and is possibly from a different batch, but really don't know.


Dear God.

Are the XE 240s affected in any way with this issue?

Is EK overextending themselves?


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> That's why most folks don't try to shed 2KW from a single 480. But if it was tasked with something along the lines of 350~400 watts, then a 10 or 15 ° delta might be reasonable?


The 480 will be paired with a 1260 to cool ~850 watts. Low fan speeds are a must. Then Im using a 420 to cool ~220 watts

2 separate loops


----------



## VSG

Speaking of SR2 rads, I just checked and PPCs has the 2 port versions at a 20% discount to make way for the multiport versions. Good deal for those who don't need/want 8 ports.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1*
> 
> Aquacomputer aqualis 100m DDC with raised mounting plate to match the motherboard tray. Rubber washers between chassis mounting for vibration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [BUILD LOG] Cs-X Project [Nothing to hide] - Caselabs S8S (X99, 980Ti, Watercooling) LEVEL=OCD


You really think a single 25mm bank is going to PUSH through that monster rad? Guess again.









That air is going to move 60% thru the rad and then just STALL. Need a 25mm PULL bank to move it the remaining distance.









.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Redid my loop this weekend. This is my first attempt at hard lines. I have to say this forum and B Negatives posts are extremely helpful.

https://flic.kr/p/x7YWAwIMG_0711 by Bruce Han, on Flickr


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You really think a single 25mm bank is going to PUSH through that monster rad? Guess again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That air is going to move 60% thru the rad and then just STALL. Need a 25mm PULL bank to move it the remaining distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Depends on the RPM!









Bundy did a roundup a few years ago including a Monsta and in his tests the Monsta pulled away @ 1200rpm. He doesn't indicate if he's push or push-pull:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads

I believe whether you are or aren't using gaskets would make a difference but I don't have data to back that up

Certainly on my old UT60 I could feel a good amount of air flowing out at 3000RPM. I have the 3K Vardars on my new Monsta 360 but it'll be a week before they start spinning


----------



## toggLesss

coming along quite nicely!


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You really think a single 25mm bank is going to PUSH through that monster rad? Guess again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That air is going to move 60% thru the rad and then just STALL. Need a 25mm PULL bank to move it the remaining distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Think it will be a problem with 10FPI? Should be able to move the air gently in my mind.


----------



## fisher6

I need some help with dealing with GPU+block sagging. I installed the Bitspower block on my 980 TI HOF and temps are great. The block is the heaviest I have ever seen. It causes the GPU to sag a little but, I was able to reduce the sagging by playing with the screws near the slots at the back of the case. I was wondering if maybe my tube going from top rad to GPU is pressing down the GPU (maybe it's too tight and should be shorter). Is is possible to maybe route the bottom tube in a way so that it pushes the card up if the tube is sitting on the PSU top, that way it would act as a support for the card.


----------



## TrumpyAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Just got home and took a couple pics of my xe 360
> 
> 
> When I removed the installed spacers, ports, not the flush plugs, the oring was bad.
> 
> And now I'm having trouble lining it up right for reassembly. Facepalm.


Sorry to hear your hassles, but I'm thankful that you went to the trouble as I can see that your end tank is much lower profile and your screws are the same as mine.

So it seems to me that end tanks off a different model ended up on some of the XE's and were close enough that it got through QC. I can't help but wonder if they leak test *after* final assembly as well as before. Not that mine were leaking at first anyway.

Ultimately, it's probably a moot point what went wrong - I'll be taking out my third 240 XE and taking out the hex bolts to see if it's hitting the tank (no need for a complete tear down IMO).

My retailer has some of the older style XTX EK that may get the nod as they are out of stock with Alphacool. Black Ice SR2 looks amazing but no retailers listed for Asia/Oceania. Aquacomputer look like a dead set work of art, but seeing their price makes me realise that price actually IS a consideration after all


----------



## Origondoo

I'm about to build a water cooled CL S3 rig, but still undecided which way to go.

Did someome even consider to create a tubing having the effect of plasma ball / tube? Maybe just to simulate the effect with water flow and lights. It would be just gorgeous.

For sure there are several things to consider like e.g. ionization of water, sealing the tube, thermal behaviour, EMC etc.

But just imagine...


----------



## Domler

@TrumpyAl
No worries. I was kinda looking for an excuse to switch to sr2s. I started putting it back together, wasn't quite lining up right, and said I'm getting sr2s. If I put in a lil effort, I could get them back in. But it helps my justify the purchase.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @TrumpyAl
> No worries. I was kinda looking for an excuse to switch to sr2s. I started putting it back together, wasn't quite lining up right, and said I'm getting sr2s. If I put in a lil effort, I could get them back in. But it helps my justify the purchase.


SR2's - Multi-Port perhaps














Some HWL of the 280mm flavor


----------



## Archea47

Whoa, those side ports. Would have been nice in my current build!


----------



## Vintage

Those SR2's are gorgeous!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Whoa, those side ports. Would have been nice in my current build!


Should be available mid-September with US & Euro retailers









*EDIT:* Matte Black only for retail - not custom glossy white as in the photo.

and yeah, I do believe the side ports will come in quite handy


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Whoa, those side ports. Would have been nice in my current build!
> 
> 
> 
> Should be available mid-September with US & Euro retailers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:* Matte Black only for retail - not custom glossy white as in the photo.
> 
> and yeah, I do believe the side ports will come in quite handy
Click to expand...

How about the rest of the world? When would it be available?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> How about the rest of the world? When would it be available?


Petition your local retailer to place an order with HWLabs








Australia does not have an agent so far as I know









How about some retail black for your viewing pleasure


----------



## Ceadderman

Those things look smexy.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Those things look smexy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes, Prof Fate has been busy with the wet render machine again













Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Just Kidding, Just Kidding, They are the real deal, live and in hand


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Right,Im buying 980 Ti's just this block......


----------



## emsj86

Now that is nice. Never liked the look of heat killer before. But that is sleak and tough looking


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Right,Im buying 980 Ti's just _for_ this block......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's a looker that's for sure


----------



## khemist

Yeah, i was going to get that block to go with my cpu block but the window on it wouldn't be seen in my case so it's a bit of a waste... i'm still indecided.


----------



## BaboonBP

Ouch @ the EK rads, I've got 3 XE 480's waiting for my th10a to be built. Looks like I know what I'll be taking apart tonight, fingers crossed for no damage as I've had them well past the ppcs return period.


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Right,Im buying 980 Ti's just this block......


Does this mean more of the SR-2 buildlog


----------



## huhh

This is my xe 360, very minor scratching from the screws. The port side doesn't seem to have the same problem cause of the angle, but the other side looks like the screws are a bit to long on mine and way to damn long on some of the others in the past few pages of this thread.


----------



## brazilianloser

Well finished up my runs. Nothing amazing or perfect but I think it is good enough for my first time. Still got about six 36" sticks that I can use in the future to replace or fix any of the runs if I end up having a leak during testing. For now just waiting on a 90 degree fitting to put in my drain valve. But yeah does it look okay? Something I should change? Got several scratches that I need to fix but don't really know how to.


----------



## emsj86

That's how mine looked as well slight ought screw mark on one side of the end cap but the rest was fine. Big relief, I feel for the people whom have this issue as returning might not be an issue and the issue is just rearing it's head so who to say there will be a fix soon


----------



## huhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well finished up my runs. Nothing amazing or perfect but I think it is good enough for my first time. Still got about six 36" sticks that I can use in the future to replace or fix any of the runs if I end up having a leak during testing. For now just waiting on a 90 degree fitting to put in my drain valve. But yeah does it look okay? Something I should change? Got several scratches that I need to fix but don't really know how to.


Looks pretty damn good from the pic, great job.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huhh*
> 
> Looks pretty damn good from the pic, great job.


Thank you sir. Good to have some feedback, good or bad.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well finished up my runs. Nothing amazing or perfect but I think it is good enough for my first time. Still got about six 36" sticks that I can use in the future to replace or fix any of the runs if I end up having a leak during testing. For now just waiting on a 90 degree fitting to put in my drain valve. But yeah does it look okay? Something I should change? Got several scratches that I need to fix but don't really know how to.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks pretty good if you ask me, very clean runs. Would love to see some high quality pic's when its finished.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Looks pretty good if you ask me, very clean runs. Would love to see some high quality pic's when its finished.


For sure. Was in a rush headed to work so used the cellphone. But will take with an actual camera probably this weekend If nothing goes wrong. Thanks.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Petition your local retailer to place an order with HWLabs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Australia does not have an agent so far as I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about some retail black for your viewing pleasure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Indeed, those side ports would have come in rather handy in my build too. Although I've managed to get by
with the two ports on the SR-1's and am overall still very happy with them, so I don't think I'll be upgrading.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Right,Im buying 980 Ti's just this block......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that is one smexy waterblock, best-looking one to come from Watercool so far IMHO.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well finished up my runs. Nothing amazing or perfect but I think it is good enough for my first time. Still got about six 36" sticks that I can use in the future to replace or fix any of the runs if I end up having a leak during testing. For now just waiting on a 90 degree fitting to put in my drain valve. But yeah does it look okay? Something I should change? Got several scratches that I need to fix but don't really know how to.


Looks pretty good to me.









And in other news:

I've put together the loop on my main build today. Finally made some progress after almost two years
of being stalled. I kept having to put off my plans due to both bad health and lack of funds, so I've decided
to scale back a bit and instead of the copper tubing I've decided to go for Norprene with copper-colored
fittings for the time being. Can still upgrade to copper somewhere down the line, but I wanted to end the
ghetto-ness in which the build had been languishing and actually make it into something proper, even
if it's not what I originally envisioned. On occasion, one must be pragmatic when dealing with the bumpy
road that life can be.

Three leaks so far. One was a defective O ring, two are attributable to my immeasurable genius. First
round I forgot to close the drain port, so everything I poured in on top went straight out the bottom again.








Also, genius that I am, I forgot to properly tighten the screws for the plexi top on one of my GPU blocks.








No idea why, but such is life.

Should have an actual update within a week or so, will redo the leak testing tomorrow, then if nothing
is broken (knock on wood), I should hopefully be able to bring the machine online by Friday or so.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Right,Im buying 980 Ti's just this block......


Heatkiller is steeping up their game with these new products! Never been a fan of their styling but the latest blocks from them have been stunning!


----------



## OGBeandip

Anyone know of a black waterblock for the EVGA X99 Classified?

Looking for NB and mosfet.

All ive found is the bitspower one but it uses a big acrylic connecting piece and acrylic mosfet.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

With evga you gotta take what you can get their motherboards arent popular enough to get done by EK, I figure.

X79 only ek block was custom made

Amazing bitspower made blocks

Custom blocks: http://forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=2211860&p=1


----------



## emsj86

I asked this question in mayhems forum on this site but figure maybe someone has experience here. Aurora 2 booster. Can it be added to pastel blue berry? Anything u have to so to make it work?


----------



## deadwidesmile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Anyone know of a black waterblock for the EVGA X99 Classified?
> 
> Looking for NB and mosfet.
> 
> All ive found is the bitspower one but it uses a big acrylic connecting piece and acrylic mosfet.


Doesn't Bitspower have the non-acrylic version of the connecting terminal on their board/cpu blocks? I'm running one right now on the MSI X99S SLI+ mobo. I swear I saw the EVGA X99 board in just black.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Doesn't Bitspower have the non-acrylic version of the connecting terminal on their board/cpu blocks? I'm running one right now on the MSI X99S SLI+ mobo. I swear I saw the EVGA X99 board in just black.


I swill scour the internet until I can find this


----------



## Evil-Mobo

This one?
http://www.modders-inc.com/bitspower-thor-eix99-full-cover-water-block-evga-x99-classifiedftw/


----------



## deadwidesmile

Yeah, I can't find the all black version of the BP-Thor block setup.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> Yeah, I can't find the all black version of the BP-Thor block setup.


Send PPC's an email and see if they can get it?


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> This one?
> http://www.modders-inc.com/bitspower-thor-eix99-full-cover-water-block-evga-x99-classifiedftw/


Thats the acrylic one. Looking for an all acetal


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Thats the acrylic one. Looking for an all acetal


Ah my mistake.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Ah my mistake.


No problem.

It appears the all black version of the Thor waterblock set is only for MSI and Gigabyte. No EVGA version except for the clear one.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Figures. EVGA is special, lol. I am finding this out as well as I want one of their MOBO's for my build but limits you somewhat on choice of case too.....


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Figures. EVGA is special, lol. I am finding this out as well as I want one of their MOBO's for my build but limits you somewhat on choice of case too.....


Im running the x99 classified in an Enthoo Primo.

And I found a solution to the acrylic conneting piece. Lets hope Im better at painting than I am at drawing.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Im running the x99 classified in an Enthoo Primo.
> 
> And I found a solution to the acrylic conneting piece. Lets hope Im better at painting than I am at drawing.


Can't wait to see what you come up with.

I'm debating a CL S8 vs S8S for a Z170 classified setup with (2) 360 rads.....


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Can't wait to see what you come up with.
> 
> I'm debating a CL S8 vs S8S for a Z170 classified setup with (2) 360 rads.....


Ill post a picture here and in my buildlog once I finish it.

I still want a caselabs, I just cant justify the price on a case right now. Ive got a 480 and 420 in the primo. And a 3x 420 (1260) outside of it.


----------



## sinnedone

Been playing with fan orientation in my system, and mostly intake did not seem to work for me. I did manage to snap a couple of pictures while messing with it.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Anyone know of a black waterblock for the EVGA X99 Classified?
> 
> Looking for NB and mosfet.
> 
> All ive found is the bitspower one but it uses a big acrylic connecting piece and acrylic mosfet.


You can always paint or vinyl it up. The blocks/pumptop/res pictured above were partly painted to achieve a look I wanted.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just getting the layout finalized for my 901 build.....







Going back to integration ethos....


----------



## sinnedone

Diggin the res in that render Bneg.

I'd like to get my hands on the 909 myself.


----------



## OGBeandip

Looks pretty good. Might have to try it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Been playing with fan orientation in my system, and mostly intake did not seem to work for me. I did manage to snap a couple of pictures while messing with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can always paint or vinyl it up. The blocks/pumptop/res pictured above were partly painted to achieve a look I wanted.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just getting the layout finalized for my 901 build.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going back to integration ethos....


What app are you rendering on? I think I want it.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just getting the layout finalized for my 901 build.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going back to integration ethos....
> 
> 
> 
> What app are you rendering on? I think I want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Its a very low detail render using Keyshot,I use the Solidworks plug in.


----------



## ricercar

n00b question.

I received a reservoir that has a tube and an "anti-cyclone adapter" mounted on the inside of the ports, as seen on the bottom of the res in this pic.



Which one is the inlet and which one is the outlet? Thanks!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> n00b question.
> 
> I received a reservoir that has a tube and an "anti-cyclone adapter" mounted on the inside of the ports, as seen on the bottom of the res in this pic.
> 
> 
> 
> Which one is the inlet and which one is the outlet? Thanks!


The inlet can be any one of them,the little cap is the anti cyclone fitting,you can ditch that for a start. the tube is for return feeds that are not below the waterline,ie the top cap.

Unscrew the res,put the fittings where you need them and screw it back together.


----------



## moonbogg

My first ever loop. Figured I'd share here.


----------



## Bezna

Not bad not bad. Cant wait for the day for my loop


----------



## Bezna

What gpus are you running moonbogg. also what cpu


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I drained my 750D the Other day when I had some spare Time.

I was using EK White pastel for Over a Year. It wasn't white when I pulled it out. Ill post pics When I get home (If I remember, and Not hop straight on Phantom Pain)

TCO


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone know if I can use either one of the G1/4" Ports on this radiator as an inlet or outlet?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/black-ice-nemesis-480gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator.html


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can use either one of the G1/4" Ports on this radiator as an inlet or outlet?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/black-ice-nemesis-480gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator.html


Rads typically don't have a flow preference.

Edit: not sure about dual pass rads., but that isn't one.


----------



## fast_fate

Yes - either port on the GTS theat you linked is OK









GTX range are port specific for "optimized" performance.


----------



## ali13245

So your saying that I have to use 1 specific port for inlet and 1 specific port for outlet?


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yes - either port on the GTS theat you linked is OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GTX range are port specific for "optimized" performance.


Thank you!







You just made my life a whole lot easier


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Rads typically don't have a flow preference.


U-Flow rads doesn't matter which ports are inlet or outlet (so long as not on same half of the rad)

Rads with a Front to Back flow pattern such as GTX, AMS and Mayhems do benefit from specific inlet and outlet ports depending on the direction of coolant flow and or air flow through the rad.
It's not much performance difference, but it is definitely there.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> U-Flow rads doesn't matter which ports are inlet or outlet (so long as not on same half of the rad)
> 
> What do you mean by "so long as not on same half of the rad"?


----------



## rioja

This is Nemesis GTX coating matching with EVGA 1600 Titanium


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Black Ice Nemesis GTX Rads and EVGA PSU on the current build in progress here, too


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Incoming SR2's and EVGA PSU here too


----------



## moonbogg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bezna*
> 
> What gpus are you running moonbogg. also what cpu


2x 980TI's @ 1440
3930K @ 4.6

EK Supremacy Evo and EK full nickel blocks for GPU's. Three UT60 x 360 rads with Gentle Typhoons. D5 pump.


----------



## Bezna

SWEET ^


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> U-Flow rads doesn't matter which ports are inlet or outlet (so long as not on same half of the rad)
> 
> What do you mean by "so long as not on same half of the rad"?
> 
> 
> 
> I was referring to multi-port rads, (which the Nemesis GTS you link is NOT) where a port from each side (half) is to be used for inlet and outlet ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is easier to see when the tanks are separate like this one.
> 
> 
> 
> Can't upload pics atm, is it just me or others having issue ??
> and weird also, this reply is not in the quote, but appears greyed out as if I was quoting
Click to expand...


----------



## ali13245

Thanks for clarifying that!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

The preview pic in fast_fate's previous post aren't showing up, but the pic does when clicked. The picture is worth 1000 words on the GTX flow diagram- I kept trying to wrap my head around it until I went ahead and took the mounting hardware out and found the instructions


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I drained my 750D the Other day when I had some spare Time.
> 
> I was using EK White pastel for Over a Year. It wasn't white when I pulled it out. Ill post pics When I get home (If I remember, and Not hop straight on Phantom Pain)
> 
> TCO


It felt good to tear my 750D down. Now I just need to get rid of it lol. No one wants to pay $40 in shipping haha.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, if I'm only cooling my CPU (5820k), will using a 360 rad increase cooling performance over using a 240?


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless overclocking, I doubt you will see much a drop in temps. But with one extra fan pushing air through the 360 it certainly cannot hurt. Push/Pull is likely where the differemce in temp will show up imho.

When I changed from modded h50 with p/p and a shroud to HWLabs stealth 360 running pull, the temps really didn't show a difference running stock speeds.

Modded h50 ran an average of 43-45c in mild gaming no overclock.

Custom loop including MB block ran between 40-43c.

I did notice better temps when Folding however so the increase in coolant flow (1\2"x3/4") tubing over (1/4"x3/8") h50 may have been the best upgrade over the 360. Probably could've gone with a 240 and been just fine with it but I couldn't pass on the 360.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Anyone used the NZXT Grid+ for there rad fans?

Curious because I just ordered one to replace my NZXT Grid







.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, if I'm only cooling my CPU (5820k), will using a 360 rad increase cooling performance over using a 240?


I think one way to approach this is to research the cooling capacity of both sizes of the radiator you're looking at (finding third party test results online) as a rough estimate, preferably at your fan speed & config. Then consider your components - the TDP of your processor is probably less than the capacity of the 240. But the way some tests are conducted, they're tested with a high heat differential and might not be exactly indicative of the cooling improvements in your own system and heat. When your temps are already low adding radiators and fans gives diminishing returns (But This Is OC.NET)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Here are the Photos.





After 1 year.

TCO


----------



## Bezna

I noticed people post get 3 to 5c better template on their cpu with custom loop vs aio. True?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bezna*
> 
> I noticed people post get 3 to 5c better template on their cpu with custom loop vs aio. True?


Some part cpu block, some part pump, some part fans and other than swiftech and now ek aio have alum. Rads and not copper


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Question. If I have the XSPC D5 vario pump (that came with the 270photon Res Combo) Can I dismantle them to use just the Pump and Slap a D5 pump top on the pump?

Ek Pump Top

Linked is the EK pump top D5. Would I need anything else?

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Question. If I have the XSPC D5 vario pump (that came with the 270photon Res Combo) Can I dismantle them to use just the Pump and Slap a D5 pump top on the pump?
> 
> Ek Pump Top
> 
> Linked is the EK pump top D5. Would I need anything else?
> 
> TCO


Yes.
A D5 is a D5.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes.
> A D5 is a D5.


I understand, Do I need anything else though in order for the pump top to stay on the D5?

TCO


----------



## Coolzo

Well, I downgraded my speakers in order to fund other hobbies... Custom loop on the way







and also the parts to finish my X99. Finally will be able to stop lurking in the shadows here!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes.
> A D5 is a D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I understand, Do I need anything else though in order for the pump top to stay on the D5?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

The top will have its own clamping mechanism included


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The top will have its own clamping mechanism included


Excellent. Thanks Bneg

TCO


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Unless overclocking, I doubt you will see much a drop in temps. But with one extra fan pushing air through the 360 it certainly cannot hurt. Push/Pull is likely where the differemce in temp will show up imho.
> 
> When I changed from modded h50 with p/p and a shroud to HWLabs stealth 360 running pull, the temps really didn't show a difference running stock speeds.
> 
> Modded h50 ran an average of 43-45c in mild gaming no overclock.
> 
> Custom loop including MB block ran between 40-43c.
> 
> I did notice better temps when Folding however so the increase in coolant flow (1\2"x3/4") tubing over (1/4"x3/8") h50 may have been the best upgrade over the 360. Probably could've gone with a 240 and been just fine with it but I couldn't pass on the 360.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I think one way to approach this is to research the cooling capacity of both sizes of the radiator you're looking at (finding third party test results online) as a rough estimate, preferably at your fan speed & config. Then consider your components - the TDP of your processor is probably less than the capacity of the 240. But the way some tests are conducted, they're tested with a high heat differential and might not be exactly indicative of the cooling improvements in your own system and heat. When your temps are already low adding radiators and fans gives diminishing returns (But This Is OC.NET)


Thanks guys, so here's another one;

It's possible to mount a 360mm rad onto a CaseLabs 240mm drop in mount. The rad will have one 120mm spot passively cooled, will the passively cooled spot dissipate any heat?


----------



## OGBeandip

Im buying a motherboard that doesnt have any 2 pin temp sensor headers. Know of any way to add in some via SATA or USB or anything similar? PCI and PCIE isnt an option

I only really need 2


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Im buying a motherboard that doesnt have any 2 pin temp sensor headers. Know of any way to add in some via SATA or USB or anything similar? PCI and PCIE isnt an option
> 
> I only really need 2


Fan controller. Nearly all of them have headers for 2 pin temp.


----------



## Faster_is_better

I guess the air leak testing worked, no leaks to be had other than a dummy one during fill up.





Not the prettiest backside I will admit lol



It runs so cool, I'm loving it.. still some fiddly issues to fix and lighting to install before I put all the facade back on and do final pics.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Inlet of the D5 Pump top is in the center of the top? Not on the Top of the Top?

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Correct inlet is the middle.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Correct inlet is the middle.


So... The Res Has to be feeding the middle inlet and the push is out of the Top of D5 pump Top? This is Madness

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Pretty sure unless there is a way to change it. All d5 pumps I see the actually d5 pump (where the wires come out/name plate) is facing down and the the other side is getting feed by the res. unless I'm mistaken


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So... The Res Has to be feeding the middle inlet and the push is out of the Top of D5 pump Top? This is Madness
> 
> TCO


alphacool tops have inlets & outlets on both faces

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1269_Alphacool-HF-D5-TOP---Plexi-G1-4----VPP655-TPP644-MCP655--V-2-.html?language=en


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Thanks guys, so here's another one;
> 
> It's possible to mount a 360mm rad onto a CaseLabs 240mm drop in mount. The rad will have one 120mm spot passively cooled, will the passively cooled spot dissipate any heat?


I don't have data to back this up, but I personally would run a 240 on the 240 mount and not a 360

If you don't have a fan on the third 120 of the 360 ... pressurized air will to a degree follow the path of least resistance. If the fans can push air out of the unobstructed space of the third 120 spot, why push air through the radiator?

I suggest (again, no data to back this up) using gaskets on your CL mounts and properly sized radiators to the mounts so that pressure from the fans isn't wasted. Here's a few pictures of mine:


----------



## russ18uk

The Bitspower Mod top has two or three choices of inlets but you need the mod bottom as well.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Question. If I have the XSPC D5 vario pump (that came with the 270photon Res Combo) Can I dismantle them to use just the Pump and Slap a D5 pump top on the pump?
> 
> Ek Pump Top
> 
> Linked is the EK pump top D5. Would I need anything else?
> 
> TCO


You can probably sell the Res/top. Since they don't sell it separately, people will kill for it lol.


----------



## emsj86

My kid is going to the shore this weekend with his grandmom which is sad first time away from us. Postive note I get to actually work on my pc. But don't get me wrong I have a honey do list as well........oh course. So plan to get on my horse and have my build done by next week


----------



## brazilianloser

Anyone got some sugestions on lighting? Bought a led strip from ebay and must say that either I messed it up or it come broken. But yeah looking for something to give some life to my upcoming build that is prewired and all... after all the bending and all don't feel like having to solder junk around my case.


----------



## alpenwasser

Finally managed to loop up my SR-2. Only took me several years...









The motherboard tray as it is in this pic weights 9.3 kg (~20 lbs).

















Currently finalising the complete loop.

For those interested, build log update: http://www.overclock.net/t/1405988/helios-caselabs-smh10-black-copper-evga-sr-2-black-edition-norprene-tubing-copper-fittings/200_50#post_24376452


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone got some sugestions on lighting? Bought a led strip from ebay and must say that either I messed it up or it come broken. But yeah looking for something to give some life to my upcoming build that is prewired and all... after all the bending and all don't feel like having to solder junk around my case.


I bought a 12" rigid light strip from PPC's (pretty sure that's where I got it) made from darkside and love it. I've had some formable strips and the back tape always gives way but in four month of these rigid ones, they have not fallen.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Finally managed to loop up my SR-2. Only took me several years...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherboard tray as it is in this pic weights 9.3 kg (~20 lbs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently finalising the complete loop.
> 
> For those interested, build log update: http://www.overclock.net/t/1405988/helios-caselabs-smh10-black-copper-evga-sr-2-black-edition-norprene-tubing-copper-fittings/200_50#post_24376452


Love it!


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> I bought a 12" rigid light strip from PPC's (pretty sure that's where I got it) made from darkside and love it. I've had some formable strips and the back tape always gives way but in four month of these rigid ones, they have not fallen.


Pictures there don't show what type of connector it comes with.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Pictures there don't show what type of connector it comes with.


Where I ordered, I had a choice of 3 pin or molex and I chose 3 pin. This is connected to my fan controller so I can dim them.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone got some sugestions on lighting? Bought a led strip from ebay and must say that either I messed it up or it come broken. But yeah looking for something to give some life to my upcoming build that is prewired and all... after all the bending and all don't feel like having to solder junk around my case.


Hands down darkside leds


----------



## MTup

I am working on custom cooling with my new HAF X. I removed the HD bays to add a second radiator in the bottom and noticed when I move the case that it twists like I took all the support out of it. I have been online looking at other HAF X's with the HD bays gone and none of them have added any support to replace what was keeping it from twisting like this. I will be running hardline tubing and worry about leaks just when I move it from my shop to my desktop or if I need to take it out and upgrade something. Any thoughts?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone got some sugestions on lighting? Bought a led strip from ebay and must say that either I messed it up or it come broken. But yeah looking for something to give some life to my upcoming build that is prewired and all... after all the bending and all don't feel like having to solder junk around my case.


Bought one of these for my Enthoo Primo

Remote control and 15 colors...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811980001


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Bought one of these for my Enthoo Primo
> 
> Remote control and 15 colors...
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811980001


How do the colors look Tor? I've been looking at them just in case I don't get what I want in my new case. I'm very patriotic and going for red white and blue but I want it to stand out.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> How do the colors look Tor? I've been looking at them just in case I don't get what I want in my new case. I'm very patriotic and going for red white and blue but I want it to stand out.


I think they look great and with brightness control you can set it as you like...

I think this is with the pink LED's that make the reds jump out.


----------



## jleslie246

A lot of the car LED light products work great in PC's. My daughter wanted red so I just put a red LED brake light in hers. A local body shop was trashing the light due to a busted plastic lens. You cant beat free.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I think they look great and with brightness control you can set it as you like...
> 
> I think this is with the pink LED's that make the reds jump out.


It does look good. Are both strips in there?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> It does look good. Are both strips in there?


Yes one behind the Pump/Res and the other is on the right with both angled 45 degrees toward the MB.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Yes one behind the Pump/Res and the other is on the right with both angled 45 degrees toward the MB.


Glad you mentioned locations because I may get them and it does look great.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> A lot of the car LED light products work great in PC's. My daughter wanted red so I just put a red LED brake light in hers. A local body shop was trashing the light due to a busted plastic lens. You cant beat free.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Creative but personally I don't want a break light inside my case.







Might make a trip to walmart after work and look at automotive led strips though. If I can't find anything to work with it both the darkside and the option that By-Tor mentioned seem reasonable.


----------



## alltheGHz

Where do you guys buy all your water cooling stuff? I need an LGA 2011-3 block, and PPCs doesn't seem to have a very large variety to choose from...


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> A lot of the car LED light products work great in PC's. My daughter wanted red so I just put a red LED brake light in hers. A local body shop was trashing the light due to a busted plastic lens. You cant beat free.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i like this, got an Ironman feel to it. the auto parts store is a modders paradise if you know what your looking for.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Where do you guys buy all your water cooling stuff? I need an LGA 2011-3 block, and PPCs doesn't seem to have a very large variety to choose from...


Afaik there's also modmymods.com and FrozenCPU in the US.
I just checked and it seems Frozen is accepting online orders again.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Where do you guys buy all your water cooling stuff? I need an LGA 2011-3 block, and PPCs doesn't seem to have a very large variety to choose from...


A lot of the ones listed for the 115X and other sockets will also work for the 2011-3. You have to go look at the product descriptions of whatever interest you, and in some cases cross reference the manufacturers website.

The PPC website could use work in a few areas IMHO............


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think I have a watercooling hoarding problem (there's even more shtuff in the rubbermaid drawers - fittings, tubing, TiM, Memory, etc): just the rads I've acquired (potato 6+)


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Afaik there's also modmymods.com and FrozenCPU in the US.
> I just checked and it seems Frozen is accepting online orders again.


I called Frozen yesterday and they said it would be next week before they accept orders.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> I called Frozen yesterday and they said it would be next week before they accept orders.


You are correct, you can put items in the cart but can't checkout.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I think I have a watercooling hoarding problem (there's even more shtuff in the rubbermaid drawers - fittings, tubing, TiM, Memory, etc): just the rads I've acquired (potato 6+)


Hey Darth, my daughter has a Nissan that can use the one on the right.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> You are correct, you can put items in the cart but can't checkout.


Yeah she said the website isn't working.


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol yeah those 560's have more than one use, I'm sure even my lil D21 Hardbody could benefit from using one. The 560's were pert of the Frank3ndesk build I was drawing up, which is turning into a long term project


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Where do you guys buy all your water cooling stuff? I need an LGA 2011-3 block, and PPCs doesn't seem to have a very large variety to choose from...


I believe my EK supremacy Evo works with 2011-v3, saw that it comes with specific mount for that chipset. I got it from PPCS

Edit: just checked and it does come with jet plate, and mounting hardware for 2011-v3


----------



## DarthBaggins

if it works w/ 2011 it will work with 2011-v3


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Where do you guys buy all your water cooling stuff? I need an LGA 2011-3 block, and PPCs doesn't seem to have a very large variety to choose from...
> 
> 
> 
> Afaik there's also modmymods.com and FrozenCPU in the US.
> I just checked and it seems Frozen is accepting online orders again.
Click to expand...

hmmm.. Frozen still has a long way to go before i would trust them again

Either way: http://www.aquatuning.de/ or http://www.aquatuning.us/

.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Where do you guys buy all your water cooling stuff? I need an LGA 2011-3 block, and PPCs doesn't seem to have a very large variety to choose from...


My Swiftech Apogee XL fits the 2011-3 socket and works very well with my 4790k.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-apogee-xl-ppcs-custom-rog-edition.html#Details


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Bought one of these for my Enthoo Primo
> 
> Remote control and 15 colors...
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811980001
> 
> 
> 
> How do the colors look Tor? I've been looking at them just in case I don't get what I want in my new case. I'm very patriotic and going for red white and blue but I want it to stand out.
Click to expand...

The light panel for Diva's Dementia with RGB leds:

The red white blue stands out pretty well


----------



## TrumpyAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Dear God.
> 
> Are the XE 240s affected in any way with this issue?
> 
> Is EK overextending themselves?


Not sure if you got a response to this or not but the answer is: Yes, the problem was first spotted in my XE 240.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@alpenwasser That SR-2 is making me drool a tad, excellent work so Far, I am going to the log now, thanks.

And yes, I have to agree that after I used Darkside Led's for my SMA8, I will never go back to another brand.









TCO


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The light panel for Diva's Dementia with RGB leds:
> 
> The red white blue stands out pretty well


Makes me want a pepsi. 10/10

Ok seriously, looks good diva.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The light panel for Diva's Dementia with RGB leds:
> 
> The red white blue stands out pretty well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is some sweet lighting, eagerly anticipating the final result.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @alpenwasser That SR-2 is making me drool a tad, excellent work so Far, I am going to the log now, thanks.
> 
> And yes, I have to agree that after I used Darkside Led's for my SMA8, I will never go back to another brand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


He, thanks, much appreciated! I do rather like the board I must admit.


----------



## Archea47

Diva's latest is the greatest as usual
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Finally managed to loop up my SR-2. Only took me several years...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherboard tray as it is in this pic weights 9.3 kg (~20 lbs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently finalising the complete loop.


Dual socket, lots of copper ... I love it!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I think I have a watercooling hoarding problem (there's even more shtuff in the rubbermaid drawers - fittings, tubing, TiM, Memory, etc): just the rads I've acquired (potato 6+)


It's funny, I sold that same amount of rads this year. Sold 2x 480s, 2x 360s and 3x 240s

That's what you get for buying deals on OCN and then not needing any of it for an actual build


----------



## mrazster

My current build !

Nothing special here, really !
I´m not a "big modder"...but still want to keeps things nice and tidy with a "clean look" !
The only real modds I´ve done is obviously cutting up the roof and frontpanel to give the rads and fans some more "breathing room". And also painted the so very ugly noctua fans...but otherwise, damn they are good !!

I´m aware one of the tubes(going from one rad to the other, in top of the case) looks really of and ugly. The reason is I did a "misscalculation" for the lack of better words. I thought/hoped 2 360 rads would fit in the case. And they did...but I hade to mount it so the in/out nipples had to face the back of the case and also I couldn´t mount a fan on the last fanmount facing towards the other rad. I tried to route the tube behind the moterboardplate/mount but that didn´t work....so this was the only option I could come up with.

*Spec:*
_NZXT H440w
Intel i7 5930K @ 4500mhz
MSI X99A SLI Plus
Corsair LPX 4x4GB DDR4 2800mhz @ 3200mhz
EVGA GTX Titan X @ 1500mhz/8000mhz
2x256GB Samsung 850 Pro (Raid)
Corsair AX1200i_

*Monitor:*
Dell U3415w (34" Ultra Wide, 3440x1440px)

*Cooling:*
_6x Noctua NF-F12 PWM, 120mm
2x EK Coolstream PE 360mm
EK Supremacy EVO Elite Edition
EK FC Titan X/980 Ti -Nickel
EK D5 Vario X-RES 140 Reservo. Pump
EK Nickel nipples and fittings
Masterkleer PVC 19/13mm_


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> My current build !
> 
> Nothing special here, really !
> I´m not a "big modder"...but still want to keeps things nice and tidy with a "clean look" !
> The only real modds I´ve done is obviously cutting up the roof and frontpanel to give the rads and fans some more "breathing room". And also painted the so very ugly noctua fans...but otherwise, damn they are good !!
> 
> I´m aware one of the tubes(going from one rad to the other, in top of the case) looks really of and ugly. The reason is I did a "misscalculation" for the lack of better words. I thought/hoped 2 360 rads would fit in the case. And they did...but I hade to mount it so the in/out nipples had to face the back of the case and also I couldn´t mount a fan on the last fanmount facing towards the other rad. I tried to route the tube behind the moterboardplate/mount but that didn´t work....so this was the only option I could come up with.
> 
> *Spec:*
> _NZXT H440w
> Intel i7 5930K @ 4500mhz
> MSI X99A SLI Plus
> Corsair LPX 4x4GB DDR4 2800mhz @ 3200mhz
> EVGA GTX Titan X @ 1500mhz/8000mhz
> 2x256GB Samsung 850 Pro (Raid)
> Corsair AX1200i_
> 
> *Monitor:*
> Dell U3415w (34" Ultra Wide, 3440x1440px)
> 
> *Cooling:*
> _6x Noctua NF-F12 PWM, 120mm
> 2x EK Coolstream PE 360mm
> EK Supremacy EVO Elite Edition
> EK FC Titan X/980 Ti -Nickel
> EK D5 Vario X-RES 140 Reservo. Pump
> EK Nickel nipples and fittings
> Masterkleer PVC 19/13mm_
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a clean build brother!









I have been eyeballing the same monitor myself as well. Excellent job on this.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> My current build !
> 
> Nothing special here, really !
> I´m not a "big modder"...but still want to keeps things nice and tidy with a "clean look" !
> The only real modds I´ve done is obviously cutting up the roof and frontpanel to give the rads and fans some more "breathing room". And also painted the so very ugly noctua fans...but otherwise, damn they are good !!
> 
> I´m aware one of the tubes(going from one rad to the other, in top of the case) looks really of and ugly. The reason is I did a "misscalculation" for the lack of better words. I thought/hoped 2 360 rads would fit in the case. And they did...but I hade to mount it so the in/out nipples had to face the back of the case and also I couldn´t mount a fan on the last fanmount facing towards the other rad. I tried to route the tube behind the moterboardplate/mount but that didn´t work....so this was the only option I could come up with.
> 
> *Spec:*
> _NZXT H440w
> Intel i7 5930K @ 4500mhz
> MSI X99A SLI Plus
> Corsair LPX 4x4GB DDR4 2800mhz @ 3200mhz
> EVGA GTX Titan X @ 1500mhz/8000mhz
> 2x256GB Samsung 850 Pro (Raid)
> Corsair AX1200i_
> 
> *Monitor:*
> Dell U3415w (34" Ultra Wide, 3440x1440px)
> 
> *Cooling:*
> _6x Noctua NF-F12 PWM, 120mm
> 2x EK Coolstream PE 360mm
> EK Supremacy EVO Elite Edition
> EK FC Titan X/980 Ti -Nickel
> EK D5 Vario X-RES 140 Reservo. Pump
> EK Nickel nipples and fittings
> Masterkleer PVC 19/13mm_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice and clean build. Good loop lines too.

@Evil-Mobo please spoiler most/all of the pics you quote. Thanks


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Very nice and clean build. Good loop lines too.
> 
> @Evil-Mobo please spoiler most/all of the pics you quote. Thanks


Fixed it my apologies.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Fixed it my apologies.












TCO


----------



## VSG

PPCs discount code:
Quote:


> Labor Day is the time to honor every hard-working man and woman out there, the backbone of our whole country, the good 'ol USA. Let us all enjoy some time off with family and friends. We have new arrivals coming every day including many new items that are now in stock! Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend $50 get 7% off: "LABOR15-7"
> Spend $250 get 8.5% off: "LABOR15-8.5"
> Spend over $500 get 10% off: "LABOR15-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 21st through August 28th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Damn, I just ordered my two 480 rads last night......


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


TY, Ty, I'm here all night


----------



## brazilianloser

Well another random question... anyone know of a very small fan controller that can be placed on the back of the case behind the motherboard. Got a Define S with a custom loop almost done with 7 fans total connected to a simple splitter but want to have better control of it to fine tune the speed depending on the time of the year without actually having a regular fan controller.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> TY, Ty, I'm here all night










Learning is good!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well another random question... anyone know of a very small fan controller that can be placed on the back of the case behind the motherboard. Got a Define S with a custom loop almost done with 7 fans total connected to a simple splitter *but want to have better control of it to fine tune the speed depending on the time of the year* without actually having a regular fan controller.












TCO


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> PPCs discount code:


Looks like they re-used their text from the Back to School discount days - August 21st to 28th is so last month. I did take advantage of that sales code


----------



## brazilianloser

@TheCautiousOne I know it doesn't make sense... Basically something small enough to go behind the motherboard tray that I can set it up so the fans are not full blast at all times. Dont mind opening the case every once in a while.

Either way got the last few items in today. Got my drain valve in, some leds, covered up the ugly pump wires. Will start leak testing tomorrow. And took a better quality photo I think...


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That is a clean build brother!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been eyeballing the same monitor myself as well. Excellent job on this.


Thnx man, much apreciated...and hey man, eyeball no more my friend.
Just sell one of your testicles(you do have a spare) and treat your self with a U3415w....it´s a dream to work with.
Doing some photographic work and small amounts of movie editing to...it´s awsome.
Not to mention gaming....dear lord in heaven, god almighty !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It does suffer of some bleeding but that is to expected if you´re not prepared to pay up 1500-2000 USD !
I got mine calibrated with Colormunki Photo ....and the colors and contrasts are amazing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Very nice and clean build. Good loop lines too.


Thnx man !


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne I know it doesn't make sense... Basically something small enough to go behind the motherboard tray that I can set it up so the fans are not full blast at all times. Dont mind opening the case every once in a while.
> 
> Either way got the last few items in today. Got my drain valve in, some leds, covered up the ugly pump wires. Will start leak testing tomorrow. And took a better quality photo I think...
> 
> ]


Best thing I could think of that will fit back there is an 8way Sata power 4pin splitter, but it couldn't control the fan speeds unless they sell one with pwm function. Its so tiny though.


.Mine is under the radiator, the little black thing.

TCO


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Best thing I could think of that will fit back there is an 8way Sata power 4pin splitter, but it couldn't control the fan speeds unless they sell one with pwm function. Its so tiny though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .Mine is under the radiator, the little black thing.
> 
> TCO


Yeap got two five way similar splitters from ppcs back there right now... guess I will know if my fans full blast are even that loud in a day anyways. might just have to mod my old fan controller in somehow if they are.

Very nice build there btw.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Yeap got two five way similar splitters from ppcs back there right now... guess I will know if my fans full blast are even that loud in a day anyways. might just have to mod my old fan controller in somehow if they are.
> 
> Very nice build there btw.


Appreciate that. I try. Sometimes.









The Splitters are amazing, just no fan control. I bought a lamptron for my first build, then realized I don't control my fans. I just run them full blast and hope that I bought the right ones.

TCO


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> Thnx man, much apreciated...and hey man, eyeball no more my friend.
> Just sell one of your testicles(you do have a spare) and treat your self with a U3415w....it´s a dream to work with.
> Doing some photographic work and small amounts of movie editing to...it´s awsome.
> Not to mention gaming....dear lord in heaven, god almighty !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> It does suffer of some bleeding but that is to expected if you´re not prepared to pay up 1500-2000 USD !
> I got mine calibrated with Colormunki Photo ....and the colors and contrasts are amazing.
> Thnx man !


Ummmmm I already sold one testicle to order the 5960X and I will be selling the other soon for a Titan X so fresh out of testicles to sell for computer parts LOL


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Ummmmm I already sold one testicle to order the 5960X and I will be selling the other soon for a Titan X so fresh out of testicles to sell for computer parts LOL


The liver is a very well-regenerating organ IIRC, so it would make for a more sustainable
source of income than testicles.


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> .... fresh out of testicles to sell for computer parts LOL


"..fresh out of testicles"......MWAAAHAHAH....that just made my day !

Yeah...I´ve been thinking about getting another Titan X....so I´m also looking for "spare bodyparts"...so far the best I can think of is one of my lungs. Wonder what thoose are worth theese days !?!


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> "..fresh out of testicles"......MWAAAHAHAH....that just made my day !
> 
> Yeah...I´ve been thinking about getting another Titan X....so I´m also looking for "spare bodyparts"...so far the best I can think of is one of my lungs. Wonder what thoose are worth theese days !?!


Just like housing markets values vary by region.......


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> The liver is a very well-regenerating organ IIRC, so it would make for a more sustainable
> source of income than testicles.


you're correct however my younger years partying completely destroyed the regeneration ability of my liver


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I'd be lucky to get enough for my liver to buy a 386.


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'd be lucky to get enough for my liver to buy a 386.


Yeah...and judging from your sign you have already sold both your testies, lungs and kidney !


----------



## ehhwhat

some slick micro builds up in here!


----------



## Yianni89

So my custom reservoir from @DiamondCooling arrived today, this is it in its preliminary placement stage. ignore all the builders tape on the glass if you can


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> Yeah...and judging from your sign you have already sold both your testies, lungs and kidney !


<-- But I still have my eyes


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, I'd like to ask your opinion on what tubing route I take to finish my build.


I'm intending to take this one. Because with the second one the bend from the rad to the motherboard will be a bit annoying to make.



Thanks guys.


----------



## Ceadderman

Uuuuuuughhh!!!

$550 in my cart and the Radiators are out of stock!









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Uuuuuuughhh!!!
> 
> $550 in my cart and the Radiators are out of stock!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


SR2's?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Uuuuuuughhh!!!
> 
> $550 in my cart and the Radiators are out of stock!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SR2's?
Click to expand...

Nope, three EK 360 PEs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope, three EK 360 PEs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah you're a braver man than I ...................................


----------



## Ceadderman

Nothing wrong with the PE or the CE units. It's the XE units that are having issues. Since I cannot put two 60mm Radiators parallel to each other on either side of my modded out 5.25" bay (as in gone







) I wasn't going to get anything larger than PEs. I could go SEs though if those are in stock...









But I'd rather have the PEs.









Okay dropped three SE 360s in the cart. I will give it a day or so and if the PEs don't show they go.









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nothing wrong with the PE or the CE units. It's the XE units that are having issues. Since I cannot put two 60mm Radiators parallel to each other on either side of my modded out 5.25" bay (as in gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I wasn't going to get anything larger than PEs. I could go SEs though if those are in stock...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'd rather have the PEs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay dropped three SE 360s in the cart. I will give it a day or so and if the PEs don't show they go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You're correct my bad.

Good luck with the build. I have two new SR2 360's going back to PPC in favor of (2) 480 SR2's........


----------



## Ceadderman

Apparently their stock was resupply ed today. Looked at my cart yesterday and they're OoS. Looked this morning and still OoS. Went back a little while earlier threw 3 SEs in the cart and found the PEs in stock. Who knew. SEs out of cart.









~Ceadder


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne I know it doesn't make sense... Basically something small enough to go behind the motherboard tray that I can set it up so the fans are not full blast at all times. Dont mind opening the case every once in a while.
> 
> Either way got the last few items in today. Got my drain valve in, some leds, covered up the ugly pump wires. Will start leak testing tomorrow. And took a better quality photo I think...


How about NZXT Grid+? Seems like you can hide it anywhere in the case & you can use the software to control the fans.

If you have enough space at the back of the optical bay, you can put a regular fan controller there since you mentioned don't mind opening the case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh hey guys, did you know that BitsPower has Radiators now?









I think they're rebranded HWLabs stealths. I saw them on PPCs tonite.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh hey guys, did you know that BitsPower has Radiators now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think they're rebranded HWLabs stealths. I saw them on PPCs tonite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Been out for months now,they are not rebrands either,they are their own design if memory serves.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well another random question... anyone know of a very small fan controller that can be placed on the back of the case behind the motherboard. Got a Define S with a custom loop almost done with 7 fans total connected to a simple splitter but want to have better control of it to fine tune the speed depending on the time of the year without actually having a regular fan controller.


Hey brazilianloser,

Swifter does make an 8 way 4 pin SATA or molex powered PWM splitter. You should be able to plug all your fans in there and control them simultaneously from CPU_FAN

A better solution might be the Aquaero 5 LT if you have the space. You could use it to more intelligently control the Swiftech splitter


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh hey guys, did you know that BitsPower has Radiators now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think they're rebranded HWLabs stealths. I saw them on PPCs tonite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been out for months now,they are not rebrands either,they are their own design if memory serves.
Click to expand...

Don't doubt you, but they look exactly the same right down to the crinkle finish.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh hey guys, did you know that BitsPower has Radiators now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think they're rebranded HWLabs stealths. I saw them on PPCs tonite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been out for months now,they are not rebrands either,they are their own design if memory serves.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't doubt you, but they look exactly the same right down to the crinkle finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Fast fate will know more,he is 'genned up' on rads more than me.


----------



## fast_fate

If you are referring to Bitspower Leviathon - then yes I am 99% certain they are OEM'd HWL radiators.

I made some mention of it when Bitspower did a silent release

Bitspower Leviathon rads are licensed HWLabs Nemesis LS series.
Bitspower list their 360mm version - BP-NLS360-F2PB specs as...
"_Dimension (LxWxT):398x120x29.6MM
16 FPI 25 Micron Copper Fins_"

How is the model number NLS = Nemesis LS









*EDIT:* Bitpower link above appears dead - here is new working link
and interesting they now have an 240mm Extreme version listed also - BP-NLX240-F2PB , which one might guess is same as the Nemesis LX









HWLabs Nemesis LS-360



Bitspower BP-NLS360-F2PB


----------



## VSG

I will add on to your 99% and make it a 100% confirmation


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne I know it doesn't make sense... Basically something small enough to go behind the motherboard tray that I can set it up so the fans are not full blast at all times. Dont mind opening the case every once in a while.
> 
> Either way got the last few items in today. Got my drain valve in, some leds, covered up the ugly pump wires. Will start leak testing tomorrow. And took a better quality photo I think...


Swiftech 8 way pwm splitter works great and cheap and small. If 3 pin fans get the phanteks "pwm" splitter. It's not actually pwm it controls 8 3 pin fans via a pwm wire that is actually using voltage control. They really should call it a pwm splitter


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> How about NZXT Grid+? Seems like you can hide it anywhere in the case & you can use the software to control the fans.
> 
> If you have enough space at the back of the optical bay, you can put a regular fan controller there since you mentioned don't mind opening the case.


Yeah looked it up but sadly half the reviews on it up on Amazon are not kind to it. Looks like it would work though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey brazilianloser,
> 
> Swifter does make an 8 way 4 pin SATA or molex powered PWM splitter. You should be able to plug all your fans in there and control them simultaneously from CPU_FAN
> 
> A better solution might be the Aquaero 5 LT if you have the space. You could use it to more intelligently control the Swiftech splitter


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Swiftech 8 way pwm splitter works great and cheap and small. If 3 pin fans get the phanteks "pwm" splitter. It's not actually pwm it controls 8 3 pin fans via a pwm wire that is actually using voltage control. They really should call it a pwm splitter


Yeah wish I had seen this one before I bought the simple ones from PPCS.
Will just boot up my system and see if the fans are even that bad at full blast before I change my mind though.


----------



## emsj86

I have two 8 way swiftech splitters for pwm fans and leds our on my phanteks hub and it works great for me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I will add on to your 99% and make it a 100% confirmation


That's what I thought. The Leviathan just looked too familiar having never seen them on PPCs before.

Thank you for the confirmation ff and VSG. Will remember in the future when in need of Rads to just go with HWLabs over BP if that's what I am going with. For this build it isn't an issue though.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

I will miss this build. Tear down day. Ready for new build. For anyone starting out. Make a proper drain bc it's a pita without a good drain system.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If you are referring to Bitspower Leviathon - then yes I am 99% certain they are OEM'd HWL radiators.
> 
> I made some mention of it when Bitspower did a silent release
> 
> Bitspower Leviathon rads are licensed HWLabs Nemesis LS series.
> Bitspower list their 360mm version - BP-NLS360-F2PB specs as...
> "_Dimension (LxWxT):398x120x29.6MM
> 16 FPI 25 Micron Copper Fins_"
> 
> How is the model number NLS = Nemesis LS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:* Bitpower link above appears dead - here is new working link
> and interesting they now have an 240mm Extreme version listed also - BP-NLX240-F2PB , which one might guess is same as the Nemesis LX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HWLabs Nemesis LS-360
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower BP-NLS360-F2PB


I was thinking of the original rads,thanks for the clarification.


----------



## OGBeandip

PPCS said this in an email on the topic of the XE series radiators
Quote:


> Yes they just emailed this morning they (EK) have a fix for longer housing and next batch will have no issue


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If you are referring to Bitspower Leviathon - then yes I am 99% certain they are OEM'd HWL radiators.
> 
> I made some mention of it when Bitspower did a silent release
> 
> Bitspower Leviathon rads are licensed HWLabs Nemesis LS series.
> Bitspower list their 360mm version - BP-NLS360-F2PB specs as...
> "_Dimension (LxWxT):398x120x29.6MM
> 16 FPI 25 Micron Copper Fins_"
> 
> How is the model number NLS = Nemesis LS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:* Bitpower link above appears dead - here is new working link
> and interesting they now have an 240mm Extreme version listed also - BP-NLX240-F2PB , which one might guess is same as the Nemesis LX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HWLabs Nemesis LS-360
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower BP-NLS360-F2PB


Hmm so just paying for BP's logo on a rad


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup, I noticed that too. Which wouldn't be too bad except the logo is upside down.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> PPCS said this in an email on the topic of the XE series radiators


Very Interesting


----------



## brazilianloser

Nothing like taking your time in a build and crap still happening... flushed the system several times prior to putting in pastel and didn't notice a very small leak in the bottom of the reservoir... but with pastel in the loop is very hard not to notice the droplet every minute coming out of my brand new Bitspower reservoir...



Any ideas on a diy fix... so that I wont have to wait weeks for PPCs to get me a new one...
Defective Oring is my guess...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Nothing like taking your time in a build and crap still happening... flushed the system several times prior to putting in pastel and didn't notice a very small leak in the bottom of the reservoir... but with pastel in the loop is very hard not to notice the droplet every minute coming out of my brand new Bitspower reservoir...
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas on a diy fix... so that I wont have to wait weeks for PPCs to get me a new one...
> Defective Oring is my guess...


Did you use the O ring that came with the Res? Looks as though you haven't installed it, just screwed the res together.

TCO


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Did you use the O ring that came with the Res? Looks as though you haven't installed it, just screwed the res together.
> 
> TCO


Yeah found that out just a sec ago... My last res from Bitz come with them pre-installed so I thought the same here... But yeah fixing that issue right now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Yeah found that out just a sec ago... My last res from Bitz come with them pre-installed so I thought the same here... But yeah fixing that issue right now.










I did the same thing.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

What do you all think? It's not perfect, but I guess I can say it's temporary for the time being. I've have so much studying to do, I just want to get this thing functional so I can focus on school.


----------



## Ceadderman

It looks good Steez. Try not to overthink it and go back to it at end of the term.









I feel your pain. New tire and pending brake job just pushed my build back.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's where I'm glad I can do all my own automotive work


----------



## Ceadderman

I will still be building but have to change the material of my MB tray. I have plenty of 1/4" MDF on hand. So not doing acrylic at this time. Which means no machined water channel behind the Motherboard. Two BP passthrough fittings and two BP black nickel 90s will be added to the order that got pushed back. So irritating but survivable so long as nothing else crops up. **knocking on wood**









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It looks good Steez. Try not to overthink it and go back to it at end of the term.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel your pain. New tire and pending brake job just pushed my build back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks. So much to do and so little free time. I go back and do all hard tubing when the semesters over.


----------



## brazilianloser

Well finally done. Now to rest and pick up tomorrow with the overclocking and what not to make this loop worth a while.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Did you buy the LSR305s and paint them white? Slick rig


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Did you buy the LSR305s and paint them white? Slick rig


Nah... they come in white as well. Its limited edition I think but they are the same price as the black counterpart.


----------



## Georgey123

Those JBL's do look sweet in white







, I Iove my LRSs. Worth every penny imo.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was thinking of the original rads,thanks for the clarification.







Just from pictures alone I am 99% sure they are licensed HWLabs Rads but only Bitspower can 100% confirm. Not sure of the QC on HWLabs rads because I never had any but on the threads on ports the Bitspower Branded ones are not square, they have a slight angle to them . I had to use dual rotaries on them to get the fittings to line up correctly to tube.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just from pictures alone I am 99% sure they are licensed HWLabs Rads but only Bitspower can 100% confirm. Not sure of the QC on HWLabs rads because I never had any but on the threads on ports the Bitspower Branded ones are not square, they have a slight angle to them . I had to use dual rotaries on them to get the fittings to line up correctly to tube.


Damn hope I don't have the same issue on my HWL rads.......


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't have that problem with my Stealth 360. But I have had it awhile. And tbh this is the first I have heard anything about an issue such as this.









~Ceadder


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Let's see how this plays out......


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I have three HWL GTX rads that are fine.


----------



## kizwan

My Hardware Labs rads also fine. But I don't understand *"...on the threads on ports the Bitspower Branded ones are not square, they have a slight angle to them..."*. My English not very good.


----------



## KShirza1

[BUILD LOG] Cs-X Project [Nothing to hide] - Caselabs S8S (X99, 980Ti, Watercooling) LEVEL=OCD


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My Hardware Labs rads also fine. But I don't understand *"...on the threads on ports the Bitspower Branded ones are not square, they have a slight angle to them..."*. My English not very good.


it means that whenever fitting is screwed on wil be slightly tilted. It's not perfectly flat. Kind of like the Leaning tower of Pisa but not as extreme of an angle.


----------



## lurker2501

I'm getting strange temps at full load in prime95. Is this OK or something is wrong? Setup: CPU/GPU + 420mm + 280mm rads. 4.4 OC



Idle temps


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> it means that whenever fitting is screwed on wil be slightly tilted. It's not perfectly flat. Kind of like the Leaning tower of Pisa but not as extreme of an angle.


Like this but probably not as extreme


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Like this but probably not as extreme


Flip the direction and its pretty close. Just enough to notice.


----------



## sdmf74

Hey I want to get a new monitor what do you guys recommend? currently using a Benq xl2420TE 144hz. Looking at single monitor 27"ish. Its for a single 980ti Kingpin ,prolly wont go SLI for a while
but not sure.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Hey I want to get a new monitor what do you guys recommend? currently using a Benq xl2420TE 144hz. Looking at single monitor 27"ish. Its for a single 980ti Kingpin ,prolly wont go SLI for a while
> but not sure.


This:
http://www.amazon.com/PG278Q-27-Inch-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00MSOND8C


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> I'm getting strange temps at full load in prime95. Is this OK or something is wrong? Setup: CPU/GPU + 420mm + 280mm rads. 4.4 OC


You don't say what processor, but guys recommend against running Prime95 on OCd Haswell-E cpus.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> This:
> http://www.amazon.com/PG278Q-27-Inch-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00MSOND8C


Thats what I plan on getting end of the year as a self BDay present now that I got a 980ti instead of my old amd cards.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Thats what I plan on getting end of the year as a self BDay present now that I got a 980ti instead of my old amd cards.


i am waiting because a 34" curved wide screen version of this screen in 1440P is suppose to drop this month, that's why I haven't bought a monitor for my build yet









http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/asus-rog-pg34q-34-ultra-wide-curved-g-sync-monitor-details.html

It was rumored recently that they changed the specs and the G-Sync on the unit will go up much higher than 75Hz, so I am patiently waiting


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah thats the one thats got my attention the most so far (27" asus) but if they are asking $650 for it I can only imagine what there gonna want for the 34" curved one besides
I like the 144hz capability

Whats the deal with this Acer 28" 4k for $350 thats cheap!


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> i am waiting because a 34" curved wide screen version of this screen in 1440P is suppose to drop this month, that's why I haven't bought a monitor for my build yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/asus-rog-pg34q-34-ultra-wide-curved-g-sync-monitor-details.html
> 
> It was rumored recently that they changed the specs and the G-Sync on the unit will go up much higher than 75Hz, so I am patiently waiting


Nice. Betcha it's going to be pretty expensive. either way only getting a new monitor with gsync in January so will know by then.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Nice. Betcha it's going to be pretty expensive. either way only getting a new monitor with gsync in January so will know by then.


speculated to be in the $1,000-$1200 range.........

the 27" monitor was once much more than the $650 they want now......

Maybe get two 27's instead


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Yeah thats the one thats got my attention the most so far (27" asus) but if they are asking $650 for it I can only imagine what there gonna want for the 34" curved one besides
> I like the 144hz capability
> 
> Whats the deal with this Acer 28" 4k for $350 thats cheap!


I know nothing of that 28" 4K monitor. The only thing I know of 4K is the steal of the Korean monitors and that 40" for 4K seems to be the sweet spot because it's exactly 4X 1080P screens..........

Sorry I cannot offer anything more there


----------



## sdmf74

Surprised there isnt more options. 4k @ 27" is probably a bad idea though


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Surprised there isnt more options. 4k @ 27" is probably a bad idea though


I'd imagine you would need binoculars to read the print lol......


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My Hardware Labs rads also fine. But I don't understand *"...on the threads on ports the Bitspower Branded ones are not square, they have a slight angle to them..."*. My English not very good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it means that whenever fitting is screwed on wil be slightly tilted. It's not perfectly flat. Kind of like the Leaning tower of Pisa but not as extreme of an angle.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I understand now.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> I'm getting strange temps at full load in prime95. Is this OK or something is wrong? Setup: CPU/GPU + 420mm + 280mm rads. 4.4 OC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idle temps


Definitely check the flow & check the CPU block. Probably poor contact. Probably forgot to remove the plastic cover on the CPU block?


----------



## deadwidesmile

My Acer 28" 4k is beautiful ave I never have had a issue with scaling. certain things are definitely smaller but, I don't sit far away from the monitor. Still readable.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadwidesmile*
> 
> My Acer 28" 4k is beautiful ave I never have had a issue with scaling. certain things are definitely smaller but, I don't sit far away from the monitor. Still readable.


Would like it to be known that my binoculars comment was an exaggerated joke hence the lol at the end


----------



## Trestles126

Leak testing was a weeeee but buzzed last night and filled her up and shot from the hips. Note to self always make sure all drain plugs on resivoir are installed! Ha ha deffinety dummied that one up but after that she hasn't leaked once








http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...83A9033D-F8F3-47A0-B1C5-B2DA8CEC9A69.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...025B1AD4-FF89-4042-9861-031A93419B43.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...FAE461C1-0A46-4533-BDC3-516B56BFB551.jpg.html


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Leak testing was a weeeee but buzzed last night and filled her up and shot from the hips. Note to self always make sure all drain plugs on resivoir are installed! Ha ha deffinety dummied that one up but after that she hasn't leaked once
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...83A9033D-F8F3-47A0-B1C5-B2DA8CEC9A69.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...025B1AD4-FF89-4042-9861-031A93419B43.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...FAE461C1-0A46-4533-BDC3-516B56BFB551.jpg.html


Good stuff man.


----------



## emsj86

Need some help and advise. So I'm taking down my pc to make way for the new sm8 case build I have going on. So first noticed my ek plexi evo cpu top is cracking at the fittings (my second one) but that could have been my fault. The main thing is I had bought a bitspower ddc upgrade res kit 250ml version and had been using my 150ml with it. Well now that I want to use the 250 ml it just won't screw down. Odd thing is the caps screw on both res fine but the 250ml rea just won't screw down on the ddc pump top combo. As way I can fix this or am I just having to buy another ? (which is starting to get old).


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Need some help and advise. So I'm taking down my pc to make way for the new sm8 case build I have going on. So first noticed my ek plexi evo cpu top is cracking at the fittings (my second one) but that could have been my fault. The main thing is I had bought a bitspower ddc upgrade res kit 250ml version and had been using my 150ml with it. Well now that I want to use the 250 ml it just won't screw down. Odd thing is the caps screw on both res fine but the 250ml rea just won't screw down on the ddc pump top combo. As way I can fix this or am I just having to buy another ? (which is starting to get old).


See if the caps screw onto both sides of the 150. It is a little tough to get the res to screw onto the top just go very slow. As for the cpu top, just replace it. Why risk it ?? $20 could save you a lot of trouble down the road.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> PPCS said this in an email on the topic of the XE series radiators
> Quote:
> Yes they just emailed this morning they (EK) have a fix for longer housing and next batch will have no issue


I don't suppose there is any mention of what EK intends to do for those of us who have the current problematic version?


----------



## KShirza1

Primochill and Bitspower persuasion therapy


----------



## emsj86

I'm replacing the cpu too for sure just sucks because this has allready happened and just money down the drain but I have to get it as it's not worth a failure. The res has me worried the 150ml slides on just fine but the 250 does. My concern is buying another res to have the same issue. Let alone I have today and tomorrow as my first free days since may and now I can't build as depending on the res I use is what will make or break how I build other parts of the pc. I know this happens but it happens a lot with oc parts more than anything else I dealt with and I'm just frustrated and disappointed


----------



## alltheGHz

Im trying to make my soft tuning look like hardline tubing... Is there a "way" to do this?


----------



## Ceadderman

Not without *alot* of angle fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## ricercar

Speaking of frustrated and disappointed...

Bought a pair of Swiftec 355 pumps and each has a pair of Bitspower accessories: a top block and a heatsink. Each accessory comes with an allen wrench. But do these allen wrenches actually fit the 355 pumps? Noooo. They have a different measurement. In order to actually disassemble the pump to use these accessories, I have to GO TO THE F^#%ing STORE TO BUY ANOTHER ALLEN WRENCH.



I feel better now. Carry on.

EDIT

Anyone with this problem should check their automotive toolkit for a torx-20 wrench, such as used for headlight removal. Torx-20 fits the Swiftech MCP355 pump!



I feel sooo much better now.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

haft to ask, ordering tomorrow!

- Price dosen`t really matter
- I don`t care about noise under load
- PerformancePerformancePerformance!!









I need 3x 140mm case fans for my define R5, simply pushing air into the case.

I need 6x 120mm rad fans who will push-pull air in/from the radaitor (11FPI, 64mm thick, ek xtx)

Anyone got some fans they will recommend? Much appreciated!







:cheers:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> haft to ask, ordering tomorrow!
> 
> - Price dosen`t really matter
> - I don`t care about noise under load
> - PerformancePerformancePerformance!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need 3x 140mm case fans for my define R5, simply pushing air into the case.
> 
> I need 6x 120mm rad fans who will push-pull air in/from the radaitor (11FPI, 64mm thick, ek xtx)
> 
> Anyone got some fans they will recommend? Much appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :cheers:


Asking for fans recommendation is like asking what is your favorite beer type or brand







Nothing out there yet touch performance/silence of Nidec Gentle Typhoons:

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/scythe_gentle_typhoon_2150rpm_69cfm_30db_fan/

That been said the EK Vardars are pretty good fans (both 120 and 140 mm) but are PWM (all models) and some of the 140 mm versions recently have a recall just after launch. Another 140 mm option are the Phanteks ones.

edit - just noticed they have a new model that seems good on paper but it is a 140 mm with 120 mm mount holes model. Searching for any review now...
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140HP2.html


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> Speaking of frustrated and disappointed...
> 
> Bought a pair of Swiftec 355 pumps and each has a pair of Bitspower accessories: a top block and a heatsink. Each accessory comes with an allen wrench. But do these allen wrenches actually fit the 355 pumps? Noooo. They have a different measurement. In order to actually disassemble the pump to use these accessories, I have to GO TO THE F^#%ing STORE TO BUY ANOTHER ALLEN WRENCH.
> 
> 
> 
> I feel better now. Carry on.


You better get some M4 X 30mm screws while you're at the F^#%ing STORE TO BUY ANOTHER ALLEN WRENCH.

Actually it looks like that pump uses torx, not Allen, so you can usually use a small flat blade screw driver to remove them.

Unfortunately, the screws that come with the red dress up kit assume you're using the stock top, and the screws that come with the magicube top, assume you have the stock housing.

None of the screws that come with either accessory will actually work with the other accessory, at least with the 35X's I've used.

Trying to save you another trip,

Darlene


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Asking for fans recommendation is like asking what is your favorite beer type or brand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing out there yet touch performance/silence of Nidec Gentle Typhoons:
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/scythe_gentle_typhoon_2150rpm_69cfm_30db_fan/
> 
> That been said the EK Vardars are pretty good fans (both 120 and 140 mm) but are PWM (all models) and some of the 140 mm versions recently have a recall just after launch. Another 140 mm option are the Phanteks ones.
> 
> edit - just noticed they have a new model that seems good on paper but it is a 140 mm with 120 mm mount holes model. Searching for any review now...
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140HP2.html


Thanks!!

Problem is that i live in Norway, so ordering 6 of those fans will cost me quite a lot including shipping and extra import taxes here :/ Will probably end up at around 250-300USD for 6 fans, eh :/

EK vardar is avaible though, and so is noiseblockers and noctua. (ew)

Phanteks for airflow fan, right?


----------



## emsj86

So the bitspower three port and single port caps screw on to both the bp res top for both 150 and 250. The 150 fits perfect on the ddc res upgrade but the 250 doesn't. What is odd is the ddc res po top upgrade came with the 250 not the 150. Don't mind the money I mind that I do t have it and won't which sucks because I took off to do this.


----------



## Ceadderman

You can't get GTs in 140 however so...









I am sure however that you could get some BeQuiet! 140s in Norway and that's my suggestion with Vargas not yet available att.









~Ceadder


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Im trying to make my soft tuning look like hardline tubing... Is there a "way" to do this?


Short runs and hot water


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> Problem is that i live in Norway, so ordering 6 of those fans will cost me quite a lot including shipping and extra import taxes here :/ Will probably end up at around 250-300USD for 6 fans, eh :/
> 
> EK vardar is avaible though, and so is noiseblockers and noctua. (ew)
> 
> Phanteks for airflow fan, right?


Have good experiences with phanteks 140 mm fans. Good performance and noise signature over rads and can be used as case fans too. I used to be a noctua fan not anymore...Too expensive IMHO for the actual performance/noise ratio. Noiseblockers are praised as very good fans (although that I never owned one of those). You can check Martinliquidlab for some very good fan tests (although a bit old) and cyclops review thread here in OCN.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks

Phanteks are solid performers and not too expensive. You can check Europe stores for Gentle Typhoons too. Last time I heard Mayhems was carrying dazmode GTs but at a huge price... That been said I used some 120 mm Phanteks on Chessboard initially and after I replaced them with black and white painted GTS temps under stress came down from a delta of almost 10 C between water-air to 5-6 C only. Sooooo, yeah, Gts are king of the hill still.

edit - @Ceadderman, true about 140 mm that is why I reccomended phanteks or vardar for that size. In any case the funny thing is that Martin did test 140 mm fans against GTs with an 120/140 adapter and by far the GTs dominated anything in the market at that time at the 140 mm size...


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You better get some M4 X 30mm screws while you're at the F^#%ing STORE TO BUY ANOTHER ALLEN WRENCH.
> 
> Actually it looks like that pump uses torx, not Allen, so you can usually use a small flat blade screw driver to remove them.
> 
> Unfortunately, the screws that come with the red dress up kit assume you're using the stock top, and the screws that come with the magicube top, assume you have the stock housing.
> 
> Trying to save you another trip,
> 
> Darlene


Thank you for the suggestions. Your mastery of all things is humbling. Never thought about using a flat blade in a torx bolt. Genius.

Fortunately, the Bitspower 355 cooler/heatsink now ships with both M4×30mm and M4×20mm screws. Trip to the F^#%ing store averted completely. *whew*


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So the bitspower three port and single port caps screw on to both the bp res top for both 150 and 250. The 150 fits perfect on the ddc res upgrade but the 250 doesn't. What is odd is the ddc res po top upgrade came with the 250 not the 150. Don't mind the money I mind that I do t have it and won't which sucks because I took off to do this.


There shouldn't be a problem then. Dont be afraid some force once you get the tread going, it sometimes sticks.


----------



## emsj86

That's what I thought and figured alittle extra force would be needed but it doesn't budge I think in going to breaks the top off before it turns lol. Looks like I'll just have to buy a new one. That our ditch the ddc pump top upgrade but I rather not as it looks nice with it


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone else see the new pumps/res's about to come out from EK? Saw they posted them on their FB page:
(Ganked from their FB)
EK-XRes Revo D5



I have to say I'd love to try one out once I get the ball rolling on CS&G


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Anyone else see the new pumps/res's about to come out from EK? Saw they posted them on their FB page:
> (Ganked from their FB)
> EK-XRes Revo D5
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say I'd love to try one out once I get the ball rolling on CS&G


Yeah someone teased them in the EK club thread a day or so ago.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Would love to see how they perform, and what their noise level is. Since for CS&G I need it to be quiet/silent


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's what I thought and figured alittle extra force would be needed but it doesn't budge I think in going to breaks the top off before it turns lol. Looks like I'll just have to buy a new one. That our ditch the ddc pump top upgrade but I rather not as it looks nice with it


I bought the 150 upgrade top and then also the 250 water water tank z res, i ended up using the 250 as a larger upgrade top instead of a seperate res, screwed on just fine.


----------



## emsj86

Yea something must be up with mine because I did the reverse where I bought the 250 upgrade and used my 150 tube on it. Now that I want to use the 250 it doesn't work. But all the caps work fine on it and the 250 works fine. Just the 250 won't work on the upgrade. Now that I remember ppc didn't have the full kit so they grabbed a 250 tube that was laying around they said so that could be the issue. When I ordered it a few months back. I might just run and buy the 250 multi z tank at microcenter and than swap the tube and give the tank to a friend or something as the caps work fine with it.


----------



## khemist

The thing that's annoying me a bit is that the ddc top and 150 upgrade i have are both clear but the 250 res i got is Blue and both ends should be Black.


----------



## emsj86

If I knew the 250 I have would fit yours I would just give it to you. I'm going to try another 250 res if that doesn't work I'll just use a male to make or just buy another upgrade kit but I feel good it's just the res as the 150 works fine


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So this is starting to get a bit annoying now. My loop just keeps deciding to blow itself up. This is the fifth time in about the 6 months that I've had it running that it's throwing issues. Now my Titan X is back to running in the 60s-70s and 33-36 on idle vs what it was running before about 45-48c load 25-28c idle.

I've already torn apart and re-built the loop, removed all the dust from the fans/rads, all the stuff you are supposed to do, but it didn't change temps at all. Now as far as it being an air bubble, there's no bubble coming loose when I gently rock the case. However I can't test if there's maybe an air bubble really trapped in one of the rads or something because something strange is happening with my pump. When I run the pump off the main power supply (the one inside the case, that has everything hooked up) the pump is silent and seems to be working as should. However when I try to use my external PSU that I use for leak testing/etc. the pump is clearly making the noise pumps make when they aren't getting water. It makes no sense at all as it's being fed directly from the res which it's connected too with a M-M fitting. I shut it off immediately to ensure the pump doesn't burn out the second I hear that noise. I won't take the risk of really tossing the case around hard to get any air loose with the system powered on.

How is this possible? I actually noticed this first when I was filling the loop the last time but thought it was because I had my drain valve open (but closed off with a stop fitting). I closed it and the pump took water fine. Now it's doing it whether the drain valve is open or not. The pump appeared to be pushing water fine on filling and stopped making noise pretty quickly so I assume it's not going bad otherwise I would think it would take a while to get all the initial air out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you tried blowing into your fill tube to see if you can dislodge the airlock?

Cause is it's not an airlock, then likely you need to check under your blocks to see about a reapplication of Thermal Compound.









I'm reasonably sure you have an airlock though. One that tilting the case can't dislodge.









~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Gently rocking the case didn't do it for me, I hard to turn that thing nearly upside down in every direction to get the bubbles out.


----------



## emsj86

First time sleeving. Ok result but I'm happy. They won't be seen anyways but still wanted them to look good.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you tried blowing into your fill tube to see if you can dislodge the airlock?
> 
> Cause is it's not an airlock, then likely you need to check under your blocks to see about a reapplication of Thermal Compound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm reasonably sure you have an airlock though. One that tilting the case can't dislodge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nah I haven't, as I don't even use a tube for filling lol. I just pour the water into the res top filling port with a funnel attached to it and top off with a Phobya filling bottle. So I should put a tubing on it and blow into it while the pump is running?

I just took the pump and res out of the case and did a test run to make sure the pump still ran and it was pushing water like crazy into the res even with it set to only 1/5.

One thing I did notice was that apparently according to Bitspowers instructions, the aqua tube is supposed to go on the bottom of the res (the pump inlet) and the anti-cyclone adapter goes on top (the res inlet). Is that right or are Bitspower's instructions just totally wrong, because I've always been using it the other way...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Gently rocking the case didn't do it for me, I hard to turn that thing nearly upside down in every direction to get the bubbles out.


My res is free floating on a m-m fitting so turning the case upside down scares me a bit. I've put it on its side and tilted it, but never completely upside down.


----------



## Ceadderman

You have to blow into it with the system unpowered. So try adding a piece of tubing long enough to blow into it. And you can go back to your cap when you're done.









IDK how the BP results goes together well enough to walk anyone through that tbh. I have a TVirus Res which works well but am considering replacing it due to age.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm having an issue draining my ~4 liter loop. I have the res cap off (both of them), and I only got out about 1 liter. Now it seems to be stuck in the loop. Any ideas?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm having an issue draining my ~4 liter loop. I have the res cap off (both of them), and I only got out about 1 liter. Now it seems to be stuck in the loop. Any ideas?


Had that happen to me before. I just stuck a piece of tubing on the highest port on my loop and blew through it till i was red


----------



## washu99

Well... I would just use DataVac to flush any remaining fluid in the loop.
Quick and easy.

I'd imagine blowing through the tube would also introduce some microorganism.


----------



## SteezyTN

Filling my baby up







hoping for no leaks because I had to disassemble some parts to drain it. I'll definitely learn next time and make smooth runs.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> I'm getting strange temps at full load in prime95. Is this OK or something is wrong? Setup: CPU/GPU + 420mm + 280mm rads. 4.4 OC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idle temps


did you take the protective plastic film off the CPU cooler base. _I forgot once and it had the same effects







_


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> You don't say what processor, but guys recommend against running Prime95 on OCd Haswell-E cpus.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Thanks. I understand now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely check the flow & check the CPU block. Probably poor contact. Probably forgot to remove the plastic cover on the CPU block?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> did you take the protective plastic film off the CPU cooler base. _I forgot once and it had the same effects
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _


It's the first thing I did when I installed the cpu block. I suspect it's a high vcore, hot videocard and an insufficient flow.


----------



## alpenwasser

Finally have my rig up and running! Only took me several years to get here.









Not yet completely done, but at least it's no longer languishing in a ghetto temporary state.


















































I'll make an update on temps in the near future.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You have to blow into it with the system unpowered. So try adding a piece of tubing long enough to blow into it. And you can go back to your cap when you're done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IDK how the BP results goes together well enough to walk anyone through that tbh. I have a TVirus Res which works well but am considering replacing it due to age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Solved my problem, at least for now. Once I blew into the tube the pump took water like normal again and now temps are at 25c idle/40c load on my Titan X (downgraded to lower vcore bios cause of how hot my card was getting before). When my temps inevitably start going back up is this all I need to do? Also any particular reason my pump is so susceptible to being airlocked?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Finally have my rig up and running! Only took me several years to get here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet completely done, but at least it's no longer languishing in a ghetto temporary state.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an update on temps in the near future.


Good gosh that is an amazing build!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Good gosh that is an amazing build!


Couldn't have said it better


----------



## catbuster

Any1 got real life pictures of ek fc *blue* backplate?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrumpyAl*
> 
> I figured out why my EK 240XE radiator was leaking and it had nothing to do with my mounting.
> 
> The end plate, with screws removed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look what I see!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I peel the whole frame off and...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unexpectedly, the tanks hadn't been punctured (yet), but it looks like the pressure has triggered the solder to fail after a few dozen heat cycles.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll crack open the other one too and post pics - presumably there's a whole batch here in Australia with this issue - although the identical EK rad that I'm running on my front panel is fine....so far.
> 
> *EDIT*
> The identical model rad that failed a couple of weeks ago had a rather battered end tank that had also been assaulted by the end plate of the frame...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exact point of failure on this rad, again, the end plates themselves weren't punctured, but I'd wager that the pressure triggered the solder to fail.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best I get in touch with them. Ideally I'd like a refund and I'm now not likely to rest easy with EK rads in my rig. But I'd accept a replacement of all three and if they pass my inspection I'd reluctantly fit them.
> 
> Let's see how I go eh?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> PPCS said this in an email on the topic of the XE series radiators
> 
> Quote:
> Yes they just emailed this morning they (EK) have a fix for longer housing and next batch will have no issue


EKWB Support responded to my inquiry about the XE Series issue.
Quote:


> A reply has been made to your ticket. Below are the ticket details.
> 
> Dear XXXXXXX
> 
> Thank you for contacting us.
> Please note that this is not a widespread issue and there and not a lot of defective radiators outside.
> However, please do a leak test, like we ALWAYS suggest (and you should always do it before turning the PC on). You should do a leak test for 24h at least to see if you have any leaks before turning the PC on in order to avoid any such damage. Of course please use paper towels in all the places where you can expect leaking to occur.
> 
> If you find out that you do have a defective radiator, please file a RMA case with the seller and you should get a replacement.
> 
> Best regards, XXXXXXX
> 
> Ticket ID: XXXX
> Subject: EKWB XE Triple Radiator
> Department: EK Support
> Priority: High
> Date Submitted: Sep 4 2015, 6:25 PM


I completely understand their side of this, since it does not seem to be a widespread problem, but it still leave people like myself who are waiting to power up a build playing Russian Roulette. Do I have 2 good XEs? Do I have 3 good XEs? Are all three bad? Two of 3? One of three? None of 3? To me, this is a worst case scenario. It still leaves all of the risk in the hands of the consumer for a product purchased in good faith.
I did ask EK about me opening the radiator shroud to facilitate inspection of the tank end in question prior to leak testing - without voiding the warranty (I believe it was either Stren or Fast_Fate making this suggestion at the Extreme Rigs site). I am awaiting EK's next answer to my Support Ticket.


----------



## emsj86

Sorry edited post. Ek on the xe rads said opening the shell is fine and won't void any warrenty and to leak test as well.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I asked ek about opening they said it will my void warrenty. They said it's made to be taken apart for painting in general


Please edit your post, it does not make sense. Thx.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Finally have my rig up and running! Only took me several years to get here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet completely done, but at least it's no longer languishing in a ghetto temporary state.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an update on temps in the near future.


About time,been waiting long enough........


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Please edit your post, it does not make sense. Thx.


Makes sense to me. The rad is made to be taken apart to be painted during manufacture, not to be taken apart by end users.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I asked ek about opening they said it will my void warrenty. They said it's made to be taken apart for painting in general


So you have to wing it and not check for damage? Im lost a little,they made it ok to take apart for painting but not to check? Or is that just EK painting? Because it really doesnt need to come apart for that as rad makers have been painting welded rads for years
Going by the finish of the EK PE's I have had,they dont strip them for painting anyway.......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I asked ek about opening they said it will my void warrenty. They said it's made to be taken apart for painting in general
> 
> 
> 
> Please edit your post, it does not make sense. Thx.
Click to expand...

Go to night school and learn English if its not your first language.....


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Radnad View Post
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by emsj86 View Post
> 
> I asked ek about opening they said it will my void warrenty. They said it's made to be taken apart for painting in general
> 
> Please edit your post, it does not make sense. Thx.
> 
> Go to night school and learn English if its not your first language.....


Yes, that is a bit confusing. Does emsj86 mean to say it WON'T void the warranty? It indeed WILL void the warranty? Though I believe the "Go to night school..." thing might be a tad harsh, maybe, possibly?
Clarification of what exactly is meant would be nice.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Good gosh that is an amazing build!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Couldn't have said it better


Thanks guys, much appreciated!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> About time,been waiting long enough........


Haha, oh yes, we have indeed.









Feels really good to finally have it in a presentable state. Not really final, but at least presentable.


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Feels really good to finally have it in a presentable state. Not really final, but at least presentable.


Extremely presentable. Very nice build, indeed.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Radnad View Post
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by emsj86 View Post
> 
> I asked ek about opening they said it will my void warrenty. They said it's made to be taken apart for painting in general
> 
> Please edit your post, it does not make sense. Thx.
> 
> Go to night school and learn English if its not your first language.....
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is a bit confusing. Does emsj86 mean to say it WON'T void the warranty? It indeed WILL void the warranty? Though I believe the "Go to night school..." thing might be a tad harsh, maybe, possibly?
> Clarification of what exactly is meant would be nice.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that is a bit confusing since doesn't mentioned whether for painting by the manufacturer or end user. I believe painting the rad will void the warranty anyway.

Anyway, akira at EK Club said that if you really worried, you can open it to inspect the damage.


----------



## emsj86

I edited my post. Sorry for the confusion. Basically ek said it was ok to take apart to check and to also leak check as well. There will be a fix on next batch. But for the time being it WILL NOT void warranty to open and check. Part of the design they said was it was made to be opened for mods. Hopefully I made some sense this time sorry again for the confusion. As for going to night school.... Come on man grow up. I understand it was not typed and put out there right, but I've never been rude to anyone here. Not a big deal but would expect to be treated the same is all. On topic mobile upload of build in progress (on mobile without a pc so quality is very poor)


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I edited my post. Sorry for the confusion. Basically ek said it was ok to take apart to check and to also leak check as well. There will be a fix on next batch. But for the time being it WILL NOT void warranty to open and check. Part of the design they said was it was made to be opened for mods. Hopefully I made some sense this time sorry again for the confusion. As for going to night school.... Come on man grow up. I understand it was not typed and put out there right, but I've never been rude to anyone here. Not a big deal but would expect to be treated the same is all. On topic mobile upload of build in progress (on mobile without a pc so quality is very poor)


I personally understood what you meant to say even though it was horribly typed







But yeah rude comments are sure unnecessary. Sadly this is the internet after all.


----------



## emsj86

No big deal b neg. is a good guy. Helps out a lot. Just felt like it was wrong. Headed to microcenter right now. Instead of waiting for a new cpu top I will just buy a new one. (My plexi ek evo is starting to spider)


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> No big deal b neg. is a good guy. Helps out a lot. Just felt like it was wrong. Headed to microcenter right now. Instead of waiting for a new cpu top I will just buy a new one. (My plexi ek evo is starting to spider)


The closest microcenter to me is about 3 hours away... hence why I am sitting on my arse waiting on new ram from Newegg in my just finished new build. Sucks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> No big deal b neg. is a good guy. Helps out a lot. Just felt like it was wrong. Headed to microcenter right now. Instead of waiting for a new cpu top I will just buy a new one. (My plexi ek evo is starting to spider)


I was talking to the other guy?


----------



## emsj86

If that's the case than I'm sorry


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I edited my post. Sorry for the confusion. Basically ek said it was ok to take apart to check and to also leak check as well. There will be a fix on next batch. But for the time being it WILL NOT void warranty to open and check. Part of the design they said was it was made to be opened for mods. Hopefully I made some sense this time sorry again for the confusion. As for going to night school.... Come on man grow up. I understand it was not typed and put out there right, but I've never been rude to anyone here. Not a big deal but would expect to be treated the same is all. On topic mobile upload of build in progress (on mobile without a pc so quality is very poor)


Thank you, it helps.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> No big deal b neg. is a good guy. Helps out a lot. Just felt like it was wrong. Headed to microcenter right now. Instead of waiting for a new cpu top I will just buy a new one. (My plexi ek evo is starting to spider)
> 
> 
> 
> I was talking to the other guy?
Click to expand...

So what exactly did I do to deserve to get bashed by you?

1. The post was gramitacally incorrect and confusing, as several others here have pointed out.

2. I politely asked for it to be edited so we all could understand it better, I wasn't rude or inconsiderate in the least.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Finally have my rig up and running! Only took me several years to get here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet completely done, but at least it's no longer languishing in a ghetto temporary state.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an update on temps in the near future.


Beautifully and uniquely done Alpen. Glad you get to the point of a working machine after all this time


----------



## BaboonBP

In regards to my experience with the EK rads, I purchased 3 of the 480EX on the 23rd of July and received them on the 8/1 so I am well past PPCS return period. I have 2 out of three that have screw damage(doesn't appear to be punctured, but there is definately some gouging going on, although all of them have scratches from the way the screw holes are made, see pic. Thankfully I am still in waiting mode for my Case Labs case to throw them into so it was easy for me to check them.

pic of the screw holes and how they are pointing into the tank area(all of mine look like this).


individual pics of one of the rads on both sides




and pics of 2 of the rads side by side



I'll be sending PPCS an email here shortly to see if anything can be done, but I have a feeling I'll be out of luck that route since it is over 30 days. But we shall see.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaboonBP*
> 
> In regards to my experience with the EK rads, I purchased 3 of the 480EX on the 23rd of July and received them on the 8/1 so I am well past PPCS return period. I have 2 out of three that have screw damage(doesn't appear to be punctured, but there is definately some gouging going on, although all of them have scratches from the way the screw holes are made, see pic. Thankfully I am still in waiting mode for my Case Labs case to throw them into so it was easy for me to check them.
> 
> pic of the screw holes and how they are pointing into the tank area(all of mine look like this).
> 
> 
> individual pics of one of the rads on both sides
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and pics of 2 of the rads side by side
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be sending PPCS an email here shortly to see if anything can be done, but I have a feeling I'll be out of luck that route since it is over 30 days. But we shall see.


Let us know what they say. I guess I will have to tear down and check also
dan


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> So what exactly did I do to deserve to get bashed by you?
> 
> 1. The post was gramitacally incorrect and confusing, as several others here have pointed out.
> 
> 2. I politely asked for it to be edited so we all could understand it better, I wasn't rude or inconsiderate in the least.


This is the World Wide Web. Explanations are unnecessary.

TCO


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by emsj86 View Post
> 
> No big deal b neg. is a good guy. Helps out a lot. Just felt like it was wrong. Headed to microcenter right now. Instead of waiting for a new cpu top I will just buy a new one. (My plexi ek evo is starting to spider)
> 
> I was talking to the other guy?
> 
> So what exactly did I do to deserve to get bashed by you?
> 
> 1. The post was gramitacally incorrect and confusing, as several others here have pointed out.
> 
> 2. I politely asked for it to be edited so we all could understand it better, I wasn't rude or inconsiderate in the least.


I wouldn't worry too much about it. They don't know you and stuff like this on the Web isn't personal.


----------



## KShirza1

Getting there...Primochill tubes and bitspower compression. I have the V2 BP, and they simply don't work together. I froze the fittings and boiled the tube and collars to make it happen.









Pics with a S6 edge for now


----------



## emsj86

I was only referring to the person that I thought said for me to go to night school. It's over now. On topic I got back from microcenter with new cpu block and 250ml reservior and this res doesn't fit on the bitspower ddc upgrade kit. Very odd as my 150ml fits perfect. (The upgrade kit I bought was the 250ml version so should fit the 250ml res if any) so not sure if I'll buy another kit or just use a male to make to connect to the pump


----------



## SteezyTN

@IT Diva, you're the only one that I can think of that can help. I have my PWM D5 pumps hooked up to my Corsair Link Commander for PWM control (they are powered via molex). Eveyrtime I restart or start my computer, I always get the error saying CPU fan air. I know it's because the pumps aren't connected to the CPU fan header, but how can I stop the message eveyrtime I start my computer?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> @IT Diva, you're the only one that I can think of that can help. I have my PWM D5 pumps hooked up to my Corsair Link Commander for PWM control (they are powered via molex). Eveyrtime I restart or start my computer, I always get the *error saying CPU fan air*. I know it's because the pumps aren't connected to the CPU fan header, but how can I stop the message eveyrtime I start my computer?


If you are referring to CPU FAN ERROR

You need to go to the BIOS and choose for IGNORE of CPU FAN. I have to do this everytime I reset defaults on my motherboard, because I use a waterblock.

Should Be in FAN Monitoring or something of that nature.

TCO


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Eveyrtime I restart or start my computer, I always get the error saying CPU fan air. I know it's because the pumps aren't connected to the CPU fan header, but how can I stop the message eveyrtime I start my computer?


Go to BIOS and select an option to ignore CPU fan RPM readings - it should be in hardware monitoring section where you configure fans speed.

TCO beat me to it.


----------



## Devildog83

Does anyone know if the XSPC raystorm CPU block fits the new 1151 socket boards?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Anything that fits socket 1155 / 1150 should fit 1151.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Anything that fits socket 1155 / 1150 should fit 1151.


Awesome thanks. I did not want to have to buy a new block just to upgrade to SkyLake. +1


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Does anyone know if the XSPC raystorm CPU block fits the new 1151 socket boards?


I'd contact XSPC and ask... They don't show 1151 on the website, but you never know..


----------



## SteezyTN

So by dropping my EX240, and adding an RX480 and 560GTS (as well as my RX360 and RX240), my overall water temps have dropped nearly 10c (at the moment). I will say though that all my fans are running at max... 1300RPM for 12 SP120's (480 and 240 push pull), 1800-1900 for the Vardar 140ER's (560GTS push), and 2000 for the Vardar 120 ER's (RX360 push). I don't keep that fans this high, but that's so awesome to drop 10c, down to never hitting 30c in water temps.

Now it's time to add the crazy voltages and hopefully keep my TitanX's below 45c max
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If you are referring to CPU FAN ERROR
> 
> You need to go to the BIOS and choose for IGNORE of CPU FAN. I have to do this everytime I reset defaults on my motherboard, because I use a waterblock.
> 
> Should Be in FAN Monitoring or something of that nature.
> 
> TCO


yes, I had a brainfart and typed "air" instead of "error". Thanks man. Got it working now.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> Extremely presentable. Very nice build, indeed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Beautifully and uniquely done Alpen. Glad you get to the point of a working machine after all this time


Thanks guys! It truly does feel great finally having it up and running in proper fashion.


----------



## emsj86

Sorry for mobile pics but I don't have a pc at the moment. Had a set back while drilling I slightly cracked the acrylic. But here is where I stand.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Got it working now.












Always a great feeling, when you don't have to hit F1

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

So, again, im running my D5 PWM pumps on my Corsair Link Commander Mini. The max speed I can get is like 3450 RPM. How come im not getting the 4800 RPM like described?

Never mind. I replugged in the cables (im using a 2 way fan splitter to leave more room for my other PWM fans), and now its recording 4600 RPM.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sorry for mobile pics but I don't have a pc at the moment. Had a set back while drilling I slightly cracked the acrylic. But here is where I stand.


Gone off acrylic. Today I changed it up to soft tube. Now I can change the cpu when I want and move things around in my case without major effort. Anybody want some fittings? haha.




I really like this rad. It only just fits at the front and is cooled by 2 noctua 14 inch industrials and one of the old fractal fans.
I put another noctua industrial on the exhaust and a fractel design on the top to put air onto the mobo.
There's so much air now that I need to put on a jacket when I compute.
Nice and cool though.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So by dropping my EX240, and adding an RX480 and 560GTS (as well as my RX360 and RX240), my overall water temps have dropped nearly 10c (at the moment). I will say though that all my fans are running at max... 1300RPM for 12 SP120's (480 and 240 push pull), 1800-1900 for the Vardar 140ER's (560GTS push), and 2000 for the Vardar 120 ER's (RX360 push). I don't keep that fans this high, but that's so awesome to drop 10c, down to never hitting 30c in water temps.
> 
> Now it's time to add the crazy voltages and hopefully keep my TitanX's below 45c max
> yes, I had a brainfart and typed "air" instead of "error". Thanks man. Got it working now.


Did you doubt that it would drop that far?
But I told you it would, I'm shocked and offended you would doubt it


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Did you doubt that it would drop that far?
> But I told you it would, I'm shocked and offended you would doubt it


Honestly, I didn't think it would. It dropped 10c, and that wasn't with the volt modded cards before haha. With the max voltage on stock bios, I was getting about 29c water temps. With the volt modded bios I'm getting 33c, which is about 6-7c over ambient







that's a whole lot better than the 17c over ambient lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sorry for mobile pics but I don't have a pc at the moment. Had a set back while drilling I slightly cracked the acrylic. But here is where I stand.
> 
> 
> 
> Gone off acrylic. Today I changed it up to soft tube. Now I can change the cpu when I want and move things around in my case without major effort. *Anybody want some fittings?* haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like this rad. It only just fits at the front and is cooled by 2 noctua 14 inch industrials and one of the old fractal fans.
> I put another noctua industrial on the exhaust and a fractel design on the top to put air onto the mobo.
> There's so much air now that I need to put on a jacket when I compute.
> Nice and cool though.
Click to expand...

I will take em.









~Ceadder


----------



## sdmf74

Are those corner pads removable? they really need to start selling different colored ones, if they havent already. At least they have black fans now.


----------



## emsj86

Yes they can be removed


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Are those corner pads removable? they really need to start selling different colored ones, if they havent already. At least they have black fans now.


Plastidip Spray?










~Ceadder


----------



## QuantumX

Hi guys, here is my water cooled Corsair 350D. Sorry for the bad picture quality, samsung s3 mini





















At the rear I have one Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWM 120mm fan and on top two Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWM 140mm fans. With the PWM Q-fan profile the fans are dead quiet and my GPU temps barely hits 40C

Radiators are 1 x 120mm XSPC EX120 and 1 x 280mm Alphacool UT45

Obviously there is some tubing running outside the case but there is not enough light in my room to get a proper picture with my phone









Coolant is Mayhems Pastel Red, so it looks quite bad-ass with the red pipes looping outside the case. Phone's camera can't really capture the colors well either

I will never be satisfied with air cooling again


----------



## emsj86

Anyone know if ek pastel can be mixed with mayhems pastel. I do know that it's a mayhems product just not sure if any changes were made on ek s end


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone know if ek pastel can be mixed with mayhems pastel. I do know that it's a mayhems product just not sure if any changes were made on ek s end


Same product,mix at your pleasure.


----------



## emsj86

Thank you


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1*
> 
> Getting there...Primochill tubes and bitspower compression. I have the V2 BP, and they simply don't work together. I froze the fittings and boiled the tube and collars to make it happen.
> 
> Pics with a S6 edge for now


Yeah, i have the v2 fittings for 3/8 5/8 tubing but had to use 7/16 5/8 primochill tubing (fits perfect).


----------



## Questors

It is very nice! Congratulations!

The previous iteration of this post was in error and has been edited. I need more coffee.


----------



## fast_fate

It's a picture gallery








Only need to spoiler if quoting a post with multiple pics, and leave the most relevant to view in your reply.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrumpyAl*
> 
> I figured out why my EK 240XE radiator was leaking and it had nothing to do with my mounting.
> 
> The end plate, with screws removed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look what I see!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I peel the whole frame off and...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unexpectedly, the tanks hadn't been punctured (yet), but it looks like the pressure has triggered the solder to fail after a few dozen heat cycles.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll crack open the other one too and post pics - presumably there's a whole batch here in Australia with this issue - although the identical EK rad that I'm running on my front panel is fine....so far.
> 
> *EDIT*
> The identical model rad that failed a couple of weeks ago had a rather battered end tank that had also been assaulted by the end plate of the frame...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exact point of failure on this rad, again, the end plates themselves weren't punctured, but I'd wager that the pressure triggered the solder to fail.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best I get in touch with them. Ideally I'd like a refund and I'm now not likely to rest easy with EK rads in my rig. But I'd accept a replacement of all three and if they pass my inspection I'd reluctantly fit them.
> 
> Let's see how I go eh?


Removing the shroud off one of three rads so far has revealed the radiator tank is slightly scraped/dented in all 4 of four corners. All right, we know this is not new. It looks like, to save money (?), EK simply threaded the jagged metal that is punctured through the end caps as a means to retain the screws. I believe that is a (or the) major contributor to the problem, not just the screws themselves. Now I have to wonder, though the first radiator inspected isn't damaged enough to leak at this time, after many cycles of expansion and contraction, how will this work out in the long run?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It's a picture gallery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only need to spoiler if quoting a post with multiple pics, and leave the most relevant to view in your reply.


Ugh! Yes, sorry, forgot which thread I was viewing. Are brain farts a forgivable excuse?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Ugh! Yes, sorry, forgot which thread I was viewing. Are brain farts a forgivable excuse?


As someone who has them often I certainly hope so.


----------



## emsj86

Shout it to It Diva for the advise with some small bits and a comes dremel sanding attachment I finally was able to get the holes drilled. Sounds easy but with 3mm acrylic it would crack so easy. Sorry for bad pics again but no pc to upload from camera and it's dark.


----------



## TrumpyAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Removing the shroud off one of three rads so far has revealed the radiator tank is slightly scraped/dented in all 4 of four corners. All right, we know this is not new. It looks like, to save money (?), EK simply threaded the jagged metal that is punctured through the end caps as a means to retain the screws. I believe that is a (or the) major contributor to the problem, not just the screws themselves. Now I have to wonder, though the first radiator inspected isn't damaged enough to leak at this time, after many cycles of expansion and contraction, how will this work out in the long run?


I've decided that it's the side plates that are actually inconsistent lengths: sometimes the whole tank is being crushed, other times the screws dent the tank but it's otherwise fine. With the latter, you may get away with it - one of my three is still ok after 6 weeks and it has no tank-crushing happening, but I returned it today anyway as I've transitioned Big Bertha to Alphacool rads.

If the screws have hit the tank I'd seriously consider replacing it.


----------



## Archea47

Just gotta say ... it's alive. I've got two d5s running at 4853 and 15 EK Vardars running >2940RPM ... flushing with Mayhem's blitz II and sure the move and video cards are disconnected but ... it's alive









Pictures to follow


----------



## toggLesss

we're getting there, boys...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Removing the shroud off one of three rads so far has revealed the radiator tank is slightly scraped/dented in all 4 of four corners. All right, we know this is not new. It looks like, to save money (?), EK simply threaded the jagged metal that is punctured through the end caps as a means to retain the screws. I believe that is a (or the) major contributor to the problem, not just the screws themselves. Now I have to wonder, though the first radiator inspected isn't damaged enough to leak at this time, after many cycles of expansion and contraction, how will this work out in the long run?


Punching thin metal to thread is standard for thin sheet like that. It creates more metal available to take a thread. You will see the same technique used on all rads for the fan mount threads

I don't see how it could cause the problem because it doesn't change the height of the surface or the length of the screws. I'm pretty sure this is just a simple production QC problem caused by the OEM not keeping tight enough control of the sizing of some of the soldered on components or the alloy shell.

There is a bit hysteria going on with this issue. Sure the rads shouldn't be like that but its just a matter of replacing them with good ones, the same as any other component. This has been one model, and mostly one size, of a whole series of rads that are otherwise unaffected. The amount of "I'll never be comfortable with EK rads" or similar, is unbelievable.
This issue is nothing compared to the problems with early Alphacool full copper rads. So many had problems that Perf PC's eventually wouldn't RMA them with the same rads, only a different brand because of the sheer number of multiple RMA's. There wasn't the same hysteria then, even though the problems persisted for a long time across multiple models, and Alphacool certainly weren't on the forums keeping people up to date or otherwise helping.


----------



## Methodical

Hey everyone. I need some advice. I have the Swiftech 220x AIO, however, I have decided that I want go in another direction. I want to build a custom water loop. I know the 220x can be expanded, but I like the 5 1/4 drive bay reservoir and pump setup better, plus I can install the 360 radiator up top for more cooling area. I've been reviewing swiftech's drive bays reservoirs and pumps, but I don't know which to get because I am not sure of the quality of the products. I am new to this, so I have been reading and watching lots of "how to" videos, but there's so much to choose from. I figured you'll have been doing this for a long time and most likely have experience with different manufacturers products. Below is what I'd like to build. Also, I'd like to use PWMs where possible. I plan to use the 220x fans, cpu block and pwm splitter for the build. I'd appreciate any insight Note: I've already order the the Komodo gpu block and backplate, which should be here tomorrow.

Case: HAF 932
GPU: 980 Ti

5 1/4 drive bay reservoir and pump (near top)
360 radiator at the top
140 radiator at the rear
120 radiator on the bottom (maybe, not sure yet)

https://www.swiftech.com/pumps.aspx

Thanks...Al


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well another random question... anyone know of a very small fan controller that can be placed on the back of the case behind the motherboard. Got a Define S with a custom loop almost done with 7 fans total connected to a simple splitter but want to have better control of it to fine tune the speed depending on the time of the year without actually having a regular fan controller.


I fit an aquacomputer poweradjust 2 ultra in place of one of the 3.5" hdd mounts behind the mobo tray on my define s, secured through the slits with two screws into the stock mount it came with.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Removing the shroud off one of three rads so far has revealed the radiator tank is slightly scraped/dented in all 4 of four corners. All right, we know this is not new. It looks like, to save money (?), EK simply threaded the jagged metal that is punctured through the end caps as a means to retain the screws. I believe that is a (or the) major contributor to the problem, not just the screws themselves. Now I have to wonder, though the first radiator inspected isn't damaged enough to leak at this time, after many cycles of expansion and contraction, how will this work out in the long run?
> 
> 
> 
> Punching thin metal to thread is standard for thin sheet like that. It creates more metal available to take a thread. You will see the same technique used on all rads for the fan mount threads
> 
> I don't see how it could cause the problem because it doesn't change the height of the surface or the length of the screws. I'm pretty sure this is just a simple production QC problem caused by the OEM not keeping tight enough control of the sizing of some of the soldered on components or the alloy shell.
> 
> There is a bit hysteria going on with this issue. Sure the rads shouldn't be like that but its just a matter of replacing them with good ones, the same as any other component. This has been one model, and mostly one size, of a whole series of rads that are otherwise unaffected. The amount of "I'll never be comfortable with EK rads" or similar, is unbelievable.
> This issue is nothing compared to the problems with early Alphacool full copper rads. So many had problems that Perf PC's eventually wouldn't RMA them with the same rads, only a different brand because of the sheer number of multiple RMA's. There wasn't the same hysteria then, even though the problems persisted for a long time across multiple models, and Alphacool certainly weren't on the forums keeping people up to date or otherwise helping.
Click to expand...

Lol,you can't mention Alphacool here and say anything bad,you will get charged by the Alphacool white knight team....

I remember it well tho....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Removing the shroud off one of three rads so far has revealed the radiator tank is slightly scraped/dented in all 4 of four corners. All right, we know this is not new. It looks like, to save money (?), EK simply threaded the jagged metal that is punctured through the end caps as a means to retain the screws. I believe that is a (or the) major contributor to the problem, not just the screws themselves. Now I have to wonder, though the first radiator inspected isn't damaged enough to leak at this time, after many cycles of expansion and contraction, how will this work out in the long run?
> 
> 
> 
> Punching thin metal to thread is standard for thin sheet like that. It creates more metal available to take a thread. You will see the same technique used on all rads for the fan mount threads
> 
> I don't see how it could cause the problem because it doesn't change the height of the surface or the length of the screws. I'm pretty sure this is just a simple production QC problem caused by the OEM not keeping tight enough control of the sizing of some of the soldered on components or the alloy shell.
> 
> There is a bit hysteria going on with this issue. Sure the rads shouldn't be like that but its just a matter of replacing them with good ones, the same as any other component. This has been one model, and mostly one size, of a whole series of rads that are otherwise unaffected. The amount of "I'll never be comfortable with EK rads" or similar, is unbelievable.
> This issue is nothing compared to the problems with early Alphacool full copper rads. So many had problems that Perf PC's eventually wouldn't RMA them with the same rads, only a different brand because of the sheer number of multiple RMA's. There wasn't the same hysteria then, even though the problems persisted for a long time across multiple models, and Alphacool certainly weren't on the forums keeping people up to date or otherwise helping.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Lol,you can't mention Alphacool here and say anything bad,you will get charged by the Alphacool white knight team....
> 
> I remember it well tho....
Click to expand...

I think the big difference here is that when you bought stool, you knew what you were buying . . . . and accepted what went with that.

With EK, there's a well earned expectation of a higher level of quality, and even a small hiccup in one product becomes overly conspicuous by its rarity.

D.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Punching thin metal to thread is standard for thin sheet like that. It creates more metal available to take a thread. You will see the same technique used on all rads for the fan mount threads


It seemed to me this is the way it is done where the fans mount, but didn't realize it was for the entire radiator encasement. The XSPC AX Series I used in the past have the excellent machined shroud... a departure from the standard then? Cleaning was easy and everything was machined nicely. I got spoiled from the start I suppose.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I don't see how it could cause the problem because it doesn't change the height of the surface or the length of the screws. I'm pretty sure this is just a simple production QC problem caused by the OEM not keeping tight enough control of the sizing of some of the soldered on components or the alloy shell.


I thought to mention this as some of the pieces of metal punched through for threading is slightly longer than the screw at a couple of spots. Since the metal is sharp, it could possibly be a part of the problem, given the tight clearance. There were several small incomplete, circular shaped gouges around the outside of the screw diameter at a couple of spots. Otherwise, I would not have posted about my finding at all, since it is already well covered.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is a bit hysteria going on with this issue. Sure the rads shouldn't be like that but its just a matter of replacing them with good ones, the same as any other component. This has been one model, and mostly one size, of a whole series of rads that are otherwise unaffected. The amount of "I'll never be comfortable with EK rads" or similar, is unbelievable.
> This issue is nothing compared to the problems with early Alphacool full copper rads. So many had problems that Perf PC's eventually wouldn't RMA them with the same rads, only a different brand because of the sheer number of multiple RMA's. There wasn't the same hysteria then, even though the problems persisted for a long time across multiple models, and Alphacool certainly weren't on the forums keeping people up to date or otherwise helping.


I haven't been in PC liquid cooling from the start, just the last 5 years or so. I still find myself learning, reading and asking questions. Reactions from person to person will be different. For me, this is uncomfortable since there is an unknown quantity of product that may or may not, but can have this problem. Purchasing hundreds, to a few thousand dollars of electronics to build a liquid cooled PC, the last thing I want is a known uncertainty with a water containing component. Asking questions, gathering information and sharing results is a means to find an outcome, that's all. I will still look to EK should I undertake another build in the future, but that is me.


----------



## grazz1984

Hiya everyone does anyone on here know where i can get a full cover water block for a EVGA GTX580 please. Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Hiya everyone does anyone on here know where i can get a full cover water block for a EVGA GTX580 please. Thanks


You checking the OCN marketplace?

TCO


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You checking the OCN marketplace?
> 
> TCO


have you got a link to it please i cant seem to find it


----------



## emsj86

I would just check the market place daily. If not probably have to go second hand from eBay or a website like that. Also try performancepc as they have some older blocks in the clearance/deal section


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> have you got a link to it please i cant seem to find it


http://www.overclock.net/f/321/overclock-marketplace

There ya go!


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/f/321/overclock-marketplace
> 
> There ya go!


Your account does not have the required permissions to access this page.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your account does not have the required permissions to access this page.


Hmmm









Ebay?

TCO


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your account does not have the required permissions to access this page.


Something's up, you should be able to browse the pages. You can't post there until you reach 35 reps, but I can browse there without even being logged in.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Punching thin metal to thread is standard for thin sheet like that. It creates more metal available to take a thread. You will see the same technique used on all rads for the fan mount threads
> 
> 
> 
> It seemed to me this is the way it is done where the fans mount, but didn't realize it was for the entire radiator encasement. The XSPC AX Series I used in the past have the excellent machined shroud... a departure from the standard then? Cleaning was easy and everything was machined nicely. I got spoiled from the start I suppose.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I don't see how it could cause the problem because it doesn't change the height of the surface or the length of the screws. I'm pretty sure this is just a simple production QC problem caused by the OEM not keeping tight enough control of the sizing of some of the soldered on components or the alloy shell.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I thought to mention this as some of the pieces of metal punched through for threading is slightly longer than the screw at a couple of spots. Since the metal is sharp, it could possibly be a part of the problem, given the tight clearance. There were several small incomplete, circular shaped gouges around the outside of the screw diameter at a couple of spots. Otherwise, I would not have posted about my finding at all, since it is already well covered.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is a bit hysteria going on with this issue. Sure the rads shouldn't be like that but its just a matter of replacing them with good ones, the same as any other component. This has been one model, and mostly one size, of a whole series of rads that are otherwise unaffected. The amount of "I'll never be comfortable with EK rads" or similar, is unbelievable.
> This issue is nothing compared to the problems with early Alphacool full copper rads. So many had problems that Perf PC's eventually wouldn't RMA them with the same rads, only a different brand because of the sheer number of multiple RMA's. There wasn't the same hysteria then, even though the problems persisted for a long time across multiple models, and Alphacool certainly weren't on the forums keeping people up to date or otherwise helping.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *I haven't been in PC liquid cooling from the start, just the last 5 years or so. I still find myself learning, reading and asking questions. Reactions from person to person will be different. For me, this is uncomfortable since there is an unknown quantity of product that may or may not, but can have this problem. Purchasing hundreds, to a few thousand dollars of electronics to build a liquid cooled PC, the last thing I want is a known uncertainty with a water containing component. Asking questions, gathering information and sharing results is a means to find an outcome, that's all. I will still look to EK should I undertake another build in the future, but that is me.*
Click to expand...

Ek have had more than their fair share of screw ups,however they react well now and resolve in a timely fashion. It didnt always be the case but they have evolved as a company.

I would expect this to be cleared up soon and more than likely an official report back from them for the community.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your account does not have the required permissions to access this page.


I sent you a PM.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Punching thin metal to thread is standard for thin sheet like that. It creates more metal available to take a thread. You will see the same technique used on all rads for the fan mount threads
> 
> 
> 
> It seemed to me this is the way it is done where the fans mount, but didn't realize it was for the entire radiator encasement. The XSPC AX Series I used in the past have the excellent machined shroud... a departure from the standard then? Cleaning was easy and everything was machined nicely. I got spoiled from the start I suppose.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I don't see how it could cause the problem because it doesn't change the height of the surface or the length of the screws. I'm pretty sure this is just a simple production QC problem caused by the OEM not keeping tight enough control of the sizing of some of the soldered on components or the alloy shell.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I thought to mention this as some of the pieces of metal punched through for threading is slightly longer than the screw at a couple of spots. Since the metal is sharp, it could possibly be a part of the problem, given the tight clearance. There were several small incomplete, circular shaped gouges around the outside of the screw diameter at a couple of spots. Otherwise, I would not have posted about my finding at all, since it is already well covered.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is a bit hysteria going on with this issue. Sure the rads shouldn't be like that but its just a matter of replacing them with good ones, the same as any other component. This has been one model, and mostly one size, of a whole series of rads that are otherwise unaffected. The amount of "I'll never be comfortable with EK rads" or similar, is unbelievable.
> This issue is nothing compared to the problems with early Alphacool full copper rads. So many had problems that Perf PC's eventually wouldn't RMA them with the same rads, only a different brand because of the sheer number of multiple RMA's. There wasn't the same hysteria then, even though the problems persisted for a long time across multiple models, and Alphacool certainly weren't on the forums keeping people up to date or otherwise helping.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *I haven't been in PC liquid cooling from the start, just the last 5 years or so. I still find myself learning, reading and asking questions. Reactions from person to person will be different. For me, this is uncomfortable since there is an unknown quantity of product that may or may not, but can have this problem. Purchasing hundreds, to a few thousand dollars of electronics to build a liquid cooled PC, the last thing I want is a known uncertainty with a water containing component. Asking questions, gathering information and sharing results is a means to find an outcome, that's all. I will still look to EK should I undertake another build in the future, but that is me.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ek have had more than their fair share of screw ups,however they react well now and resolve in a timely fashion. It didnt always be the case but they have evolved as a company.
> 
> I would expect this to be cleared up soon and more than likely an official report back from them for the community.
Click to expand...

This.









~Ceadder


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Gone off acrylic. Today I changed it up to soft tube. Now I can change the cpu when I want and move things around in my case without major effort. Anybody want some fittings? haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like this rad. It only just fits at the front and is cooled by 2 noctua 14 inch industrials and one of the old fractal fans.
> I put another noctua industrial on the exhaust and a fractel design on the top to put air onto the mobo.
> There's so much air now that I need to put on a jacket when I compute.
> Nice and cool though.


How are you getting the blue color - lights, fluid?

Thanks


----------



## PCModderMike

Made some progress with my pumps last night.


----------



## surfinchina

Both!
Using EK UV Blue for fluid and have Corsair LEDs on a commander mini. So I can set the lighting colour to a moody blue to make the fluid look nicer.
The only problem is the software - Corsair Link is really defective.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Both!
> Using EK UV Blue for fluid and have Corsair LEDs on a commander mini. So I can set the lighting colour to a moody blue to make the fluid look nicer.
> The only problem is the software - Corsair Link is really defective.


Thanks. Have you experience any problems with the colored fluids, like clogging or flaking etc.?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks. Have you experience any problems with the colored fluids, like clogging or flaking etc.?


The pre-mixed coolants are pretty good. What you want to stay away from though are the dye additives. Particularly the red dye additives. From my experience, they have a tendency to settle and clog your blocks over time.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks. Have you experience any problems with the colored fluids, like clogging or flaking etc.?


No.
It's only been in a few days.
I wouldn't think the clear fluids will give any trouble. Even the pastel I had in should be ok, just runs the PC a tiny bit hotter because it runs thicker.

It's just important to run reputable fluids and change it every now and then.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> No.
> It's only been in a few days.
> I wouldn't think the clear fluids will give any trouble. Even the pastel I had in should be ok, just runs the PC a tiny bit hotter because it runs thicker.
> 
> It's just important to run reputable fluids and change it every now and then.


Cool thanks


----------



## xPureevilx

Hello Everyone,

First I would like to thank Everyone who posts to this site. I found it a wonderful resource. The Things you guys come up with is just amazing & a lot of fun to look at. It helped me build my first liquid computer. I haven't built A PC in over 10 years. Yes teen years. Used to build them a lot when I was younger and in my 386 days. Also am a Oldtimer with my duel voodoo cards playing Q2. Last computer I bought pre built was a AMD 6 core. So this was a significant upgrade with a lot of wasted Power 8).

I'm finally Posting to hear your guys thoughts. It started off as a Idea and ended up as some sort of Art I think. I don't mind being Criticized, reading what you guys say means a lot good an bad. Thank you.

1 Loop system D5 pump Hard lined with acrylic.
Idle 26-29 Celsius. Load 31-35 Celsius.
OCed using 125 Strap @ 4500MHZ

Build
Corsair 540 Air Case,
ASUS X99 Deluxe
Intel i7 -5930 CPU
32 Gigs Kingston Hyper X DDR4 3000 (PC4-24000)
2X EVGA GTX 980 Hydro SLI
EVGA 1200Watt Platinum PS
2X Samsung 500 GIG HD Raid 0
1X Seagate Constellation HD 1TB
EK Supremacy MK Water block
2X EK 240 Coolstream Radiators
Alphacool VPP655 - OT12 d5 pump
Alphacool light tower reservoir
moonson compression fittings
Acrylic tube 1/2 X 5/8 UV green tubing


----------



## DarthBaggins

That panel turned out great







welcome back to the addiction lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xPureevilx*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First I would like to thank Everyone who posts to this site. I found it a wonderful resource. The Things you guys come up with is just amazing & a lot of fun to look at. It helped me build my first liquid computer. I haven't built A PC in over 10 years. Yes teen years. Used to build them a lot when I was younger and in my 386 days. Also am a Oldtimer with my duel voodoo cards playing Q2. Last computer I bought pre built was a AMD 6 core. So this was a significant upgrade with a lot of wasted Power 8).
> 
> I'm finally Posting to hear your guys thoughts. It started off as a Idea and ended up as some sort of Art I think. I don't mind being Criticized, reading what you guys say means a lot good an bad. Thank you.
> 
> 1 Loop system D5 pump Hard lined with acrylic.
> Idle 26-29 Celsius. Load 31-35 Celsius.
> OCed using 125 Strap @ 4500MHZ
> 
> Build
> Corsair 540 Air Case,
> ASUS X99 Deluxe
> Intel i7 -5930 CPU
> 32 Gigs Kingston Hyper X DDR4 3000 (PC4-24000)
> 2X EVGA GTX 980 Hydro SLI
> EVGA 1200Watt Platinum PS
> 2X Samsung 500 GIG HD Raid 0
> 1X Seagate Constellation HD 1TB
> EK Supremacy MK Water block
> 2X EK 240 Coolstream Radiators
> Alphacool VPP655 - OT12 d5 pump
> Alphacool light tower reservoir
> moonson compression fittings
> Acrylic tube 1/2 X 5/8 UV green tubing


Joker theme and also matrix? Diggin it. The lines are straight?

TCO


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xPureevilx*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> First I would like to thank Everyone who posts to this site. I found it a wonderful resource. The Things you guys come up with is just amazing & a lot of fun to look at. It helped me build my first liquid computer. I haven't built A PC in over 10 years. Yes teen years. Used to build them a lot when I was younger and in my 386 days. Also am a Oldtimer with my duel voodoo cards playing Q2. Last computer I bought pre built was a AMD 6 core. So this was a significant upgrade with a lot of wasted Power 8).
> 
> I'm finally Posting to hear your guys thoughts. It started off as a Idea and ended up as some sort of Art I think. I don't mind being Criticized, reading what you guys say means a lot good an bad. Thank you.
> 
> 1 Loop system D5 pump Hard lined with acrylic.
> Idle 26-29 Celsius. Load 31-35 Celsius.
> OCed using 125 Strap @ 4500MHZ
> 
> Build
> Corsair 540 Air Case,
> ASUS X99 Deluxe
> Intel i7 -5930 CPU
> 32 Gigs Kingston Hyper X DDR4 3000 (PC4-24000)
> 2X EVGA GTX 980 Hydro SLI
> EVGA 1200Watt Platinum PS
> 2X Samsung 500 GIG HD Raid 0
> 1X Seagate Constellation HD 1TB
> EK Supremacy MK Water block
> 2X EK 240 Coolstream Radiators
> Alphacool VPP655 - OT12 d5 pump
> Alphacool light tower reservoir
> moonson compression fittings
> Acrylic tube 1/2 X 5/8 UV green tubing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that's pretty cool.


----------



## Questors

EK-CoolStream XE Radiators Status - Announcement from EKWB

http://www.overclock.net/t/1573098/ekwb-makes-official-announcement-about-xe-series-radiator-concerns-offers-rmas


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks. Have you experience any problems with the colored fluids, like clogging or flaking etc.?


i just came from using the ek uv blue pre mix had to replace it ended up having buildup in my cpu block from it . it was only in my cpu block it was blue stuff in the channels my gpu didnt have any in its block . only saw it since i was redoing my tubing, no flaking or it settling . it looked almost like sand but wasn't . i would use it again but had there clear type already bought .


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xPureevilx*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> First I would like to thank Everyone who posts to this site. I found it a wonderful resource. The Things you guys come up with is just amazing & a lot of fun to look at. It helped me build my first liquid computer. I haven't built A PC in over 10 years. Yes teen years. Used to build them a lot when I was younger and in my 386 days. Also am a Oldtimer with my duel voodoo cards playing Q2. Last computer I bought pre built was a AMD 6 core. So this was a significant upgrade with a lot of wasted Power 8).
> 
> I'm finally Posting to hear your guys thoughts. It started off as a Idea and ended up as some sort of Art I think. I don't mind being Criticized, reading what you guys say means a lot good an bad. Thank you.


That's very original and cool!

Are the "hieroglyphics" sequenced/animated like in The Matrix?


----------



## xPureevilx

Thank you GnarlyCharlie,

I used Matrix Font that was made and posted on the Internet. I basically Typed Random lines. Hidden in the lines I have PUREEVIL lit up separately with UV Purple LED. I used acrylic I polished as the lens and kept it blacked out on the edges only to prevent the green from over powering it. My original tag since 1991. I Then Converted the Vector into a DXF file to have Laser Cut through the side panel. The Purple Stays illuminated. The green is Actually on a Dimmer that acts as a Breathing Effect. So the Green Basically goes bright then dark in a loop.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

That's great, a perfect way to work the dimming effect.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ok! So have been getting my Old 750D ready to give to my Brother for His wedding. I didn't need it anymore after building in the SMA8 as it's replacement.

Used EK Pastel White for a Year with Primochill Tubing, Advanced LRT.

Added Red Mayhems Pastel to the Loop instead for him. If it looks a tad pink, It is. I couldn't get all of the White out from the loop with the distilled I had at the House.










TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd say add a few drops of mayhems red dye


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The two-color effect is pretty nice. Don't remember seeing too many builds with a dominant color (not white/black/chrome) separate/different from their fluid.


----------



## emsj86

Air test passed now leak testing and flushing out any left over fluid from before (Gpus our from last build). Thoughts. Obviously alit more to be done and the panel will look better with matching fluid but I like it so far. Takes a lot lot lot more fluid than my last build. Also real camera and videos will be uploaded when oc is done Build log link if you want to check it out (I'm not the best at logs and need a second pc to upload camera and videos) http://www.overclock.net/t/1567946/project-b-the-bends-build-log-caselabs-sm8/60#post_24397801


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Air test passed now leak testing and flushing out any left over fluid from before (Gpus our from last build). Thoughts. Obviously alit more to be done and the panel will look better with matching fluid but I like it so far. Takes a lot lot lot more fluid than my last build. Also real camera and videos will be uploaded when oc is done Build log link if you want to check it out (I'm not the best at logs and need a second pc to upload camera and videos) http://www.overclock.net/t/1567946/project-b-the-bends-build-log-caselabs-sm8/60#post_24397801


Nice build! Very clean. I may just have to try acrylic myself next time I build a PC. Definitely an art form.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shweller*
> 
> Nice build! Very clean. I may just have to try acrylic myself next time I build a PC. Definitely an art form.


I thought that, but it's difficult! Plus, after I went to soft tubes from acrylic, I was just now able to change my X5690 to my L5640 chip in about 5 minutes, rather than a major drain and new fluid and leak test thing.
And I actually like the art of my computer more now. Softer.
Not that I'm putting acrylic down! It just moves it into a new thing - more form than function if you know what I mean.


----------



## OGBeandip

What kind of cpu temp difference can i expect between a motherboard+cpu monoblock and a dedicated cpu block?

Using an ASUS RVE and a 5960x


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> I thought that, but it's difficult! Plus, after I went to soft tubes from acrylic, I was just now able to change my X5690 to my L5640 chip in about 5 minutes, rather than a major drain and new fluid and leak test thing.
> And I actually like the art of my computer more now. Softer.
> Not that I'm putting acrylic down! It just moves it into a new thing - more form than function if you know what I mean.


I can definitely see that being an issue. I will be taking my loop apart for cleaning this weekend. I am buying a cheap little pus for running just the pump for a leak check. Maybe just a few hours. I have had brand new bits power fittings leak on me before. Fortunately I had everything but molex power disconnected from the PSU.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> What kind of cpu temp difference can i expect between a motherboard+cpu monoblock and a dedicated cpu block?
> 
> Using an ASUS RVE and a 5960x


The monoblock is trickier and requires more patience to mount, but as long as you follow the directions and get it right, there's no reason it shouldn't match the temps of a dedicated CPU block setup within a degree or so.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The monoblock is trickier and requires more patience to mount, but as long as you follow the directions and get it right, there's no reason it shouldn't match the temps of a dedicated CPU block setup within a degree or so.


Alright thanks diva. Gettin a monoblock then.


----------



## SavellM

Hey guys,

So I'm in the process of changing my serial GPU loop to a parallel one.

Just wanted to make sure this would work?



I've see it elsewhere and it looks good, and even temps and low pressure.
Any thoughts? I would ultimately like to keep the In/Out on the same side as it makes running the loop in my desk easier.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> So I'm in the process of changing my serial GPU loop to a parallel one.
> 
> Just wanted to make sure this would work?
> 
> 
> 
> I've see it elsewhere and it looks good, and even temps and low pressure.
> Any thoughts? I would ultimately like to keep the In/Out on the same side as it makes running the loop in my desk easier.


It will work.



Mine are the same config.

TCO


----------



## ali13245

Can a drain valve be incorporated into either the inlet or outlet of the component your trying to drain from?


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It will work.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine are the same config.
> 
> TCO


Oh that is sexy!

And, performance any good?
Better or worse?

Did you try parallel with another exit?
Or Serial?

Thanks again btw.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Can a drain valve be incorporated into either the inlet or outlet of the component your trying to drain from?


A drain should be at the lowest point of a loop. Are you trying to work it in the loop? As a shutoff valve? Or an actual Drain?

This Drain I installed is in one of the "inlets" of a 270 Photon D5 combo.





This drain is at the lowest point on my S3 and is in the same line as the outlet of the Pump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Oh that is sexy!
> 
> And, performance any good?
> Better or worse?
> 
> Did you try parallel with another exit?
> Or Serial?
> 
> Thanks again btw.


This is Parallel. Not Serial.

Temps are great actually. Should be 45max C at 100% load on each card (The Top card reads 49c) but I need to reapply thermal paste on it, but refuse to break down the GPU and Green Loop for a 4c Change.

TCO


----------



## SavellM

Top job buddy!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top job buddy!


Matter of Fact, the Picture above of the 750D with the Red fluid has an EVGA 780 FTW in Serial. Temps on that are the Same. 49c max at 100% load in the same loop as the CPU.

TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A drain should be at the lowest point of a loop. Are you trying to work it in the loop? As a shutoff valve? Or an actual Drain?
> 
> This Drain I installed is in one of the "inlets" of a 270 Photon D5 combo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This drain is at the lowest point on my S3 and is in the same line as the outlet of the Pump
> This is Parallel. Not Serial.
> 
> Temps are great actually. Should be 45max C at 100% load on each card (The Top card reads 49c) but I need to reapply thermal paste on it, but refuse to break down the GPU and Green Loop for a 4c Change.
> 
> TCO


I want to use it to drain the system, it will be in the lowest point of the loop coming out from a bitspower t fitting which will be in the bottom rad. So I can use it on either the inlet or outlet of the rad?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I want to use it to drain the system, it will be in the lowest point of the loop coming out from a bitspower t fitting which will be in the bottom rad. So I can use it on either the inlet or outlet of the rad?


It shouldn't be a problem.

I have a Drain valve on the Backside of an XTX Ek 480 and I used another drain valve attached to a Q Rotary on the Outlet of the XSPC 240mm Rad.





TCO


----------



## ali13245

Thanks!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Thanks!


For You buddy, The World.

TCO


----------



## brazilianloser

My drain is the lowest part of my loop and still a pain to drain.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> My drain is the lowest part of my loop and still a pain to drain.


Try opening the reservoir when you drain it. This should allow for air to come in and allow the coolant to drain out more quickly.


----------



## Dango

Hey guys, I am the new guy who taking over from Bryan from Swiftech Support. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Hey guys, I am the new guy who taking over from Bryan from Swiftech Support. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.


Glad to have you!


----------



## SteezyTN

I finally added my LEDs


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Try opening the reservoir when you drain it. This should allow for air to come in and allow the coolant to drain out more quickly.


Lol yeah common sense but thanks. even with a up top port open and the drain at the bottom as my rig shows I still get lots of fluid stuck up top for some reason. Had to blow in the tube when I was filling to get the water I was flushing the system with.


----------



## psycho84

Quick 'n' Dirty









Still wariting for some Parts...


----------



## Georgey123

These Hexgear cases continue to get me excited. They are a fantastic looking matx case imo. Sweet looking build.


----------



## ozzy1925

Today has been 2 months since my loop has been running and i just discovered this inside my cpu block

is this corrosion?


----------



## Methodical

Where^^^^?


----------



## Ceadderman

Where? I'm not seeing it. If I were on my phone it wouldn't look any worse for wear. Which fitting? Or are you referring to block internal?

If you're referring to the slight coolant breach going on internally, that's normal. Is there some discoloration that I am not seeing at that point?









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

My lil caselabs nova x2m htpc to compliment my s8 gaming rig. Built it with all eBay cheap finds about a lil under a grand to build with case

Evga stinger z97 wifi
I5 4690 3.5ghz processor
Gtx680
8gigs corsair vengeance ram
120gb ssd
2gb hard drive
Ek nickel block
Ek full cover gpu block
Ek xtop d5 pump
Ek res
And 2 darkside crossflownrads

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0320.jpg.htmlhttp://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0323.jpg.html
http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0326.jpg.html


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## Maticb

Quick question, these two things fit together right? Just making sure.
https://www.caseking.de/en/koolance-hf-schnellverschluss-gerade-female-id-10mm-panel-mount-wasa-067.html
https://www.caseking.de/en/koolance-hf-no-spill-schnellverschluss-gerade-male-auf-id-10mm-wasa-049.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Today has been 2 months since my loop has been running and i just discovered this inside my cpu block
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is this corrosion?


I see nothing of concern.

TCO

Night Shots, Not the Greatest but... Eh


----------



## toolmaker03

Well here are a couple of my builds.

https://imageshack.com/i/ezPiu5JIj
https://imageshack.com/i/exwiFW7Vj
https://imageshack.com/i/120plbJ
https://imageshack.com/i/0vfi2nJ








https://imageshack.com/i/04alldone003j
https://imageshack.com/i/f1alldone005j
https://imageshack.com/i/nlglowrad005j
https://imageshack.com/i/77largepics002j


----------



## Dango

Take a look guys. This was my FIRSTwater cooling build.
What do you guys think?


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> Quick question, these two things fit together right? Just making sure.
> https://www.caseking.de/en/koolance-hf-schnellverschluss-gerade-female-id-10mm-panel-mount-wasa-067.html
> https://www.caseking.de/en/koolance-hf-no-spill-schnellverschluss-gerade-male-auf-id-10mm-wasa-049.html


No! The male part says it will only fit the VL3N, so you need this one:

https://www.caseking.de/en/koolance-hf-no-spill-schnellverschluss-gerade-female-auf-id-13mm-wasa-043.html


----------



## jleslie246

.sorry, double post


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> No! The male part will only fit this one:
> 
> https://www.caseking.de/en/koolance-hf-no-spill-schnellverschluss-gerade-female-auf-id-13mm-wasa-043.html


Oh lol thanks I didn't notice that code thingy.


----------



## MTup

I have been building computers for many years and now doing my first custom loop coming from an H100i for my cpu only to run 5.0GHz 24/7 just to say I can. I put a flow indicator inline without supporting it and it seems just fine and have been running distilled water for the last 3 days with no leaks. Has anyone ever had a problem with a flow indicator leaking or sagging inline before? If I need a bracket for it then I'll have to build it to free stand on my psu. I am running an XT 45 360 and UT 60 to keep this FX8350 cool. I had to cut my res tube to 170mm. My drain is in the bottom of the UT60 and bottom of my res when I put the ball valve and tubing on there. This is not the MB or PSU or wiring I will run. I used this to make my tubing. Thanks for any replies guys.


----------



## jleslie246

Are you going to cool the GPU too? You have enough rads for it. Good luck with the overclock. I cant get my 8350 24/7 stable at 5.0, only 4.8GHz. It really comes to life at 4.8! My vcore is 1.5V and I never get over 46c while gaming.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> My lil caselabs nova x2m htpc to compliment my s8 gaming rig. Built it with all eBay cheap finds about a lil under a grand to build with case
> 
> Evga stinger z97 wifi
> I5 4690 3.5ghz processor
> Gtx680
> 8gigs corsair vengeance ram
> 120gb ssd
> 2gb hard drive
> Ek nickel block
> Ek full cover gpu block
> Ek xtop d5 pump
> Ek res
> And 2 darkside crossflownrads
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0320.jpg.htmlhttp://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0323.jpg.html
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Custom PC/DSC_0326.jpg.html


Nice. Did you use the hard tubing? If so, was it difficult to work with?

Thanks


----------



## emsj86

Damn nice builds. Picture day and I didn't get an invite!!! Pyscho85 love the build. Almost bought that hexgear r40 but didn't want to buy another motherboard so I got the sm8. But that case is nice and the build is too. Teaser picture since I was invited. Also trestles love the psu cover build came out nice good job


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Take a look guys. This was my FIRSTwater cooling build.
> What do you guys think?


I think it's beautiful! I'm a bit biased though.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Take a look guys. This was my FIRSTwater cooling build.
> What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very cool and welcome!


----------



## emsj86

Camera and videos to come. But it's late I have work in three hours good night leave with a teaser.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Where? I'm not seeing it. If I were on my phone it wouldn't look any worse for wear. Which fitting? Or are you referring to block internal?
> 
> If you're referring to the slight coolant breach going on internally, that's normal. Is there some discoloration that I am not seeing at that point?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Where^^^^?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I see nothing of concern.
> 
> TCO


sorry i was on the mobile ,i marked it with circle the yellow part inside block:
https://hizliresim.com/gAMraR
https://hizliresim.com/AqrDap

i cant upload pictures to the forum for some reason


----------



## Willius

Some new stuff to play with, I will soon start a build log for a water cooler itx HTPC.
Not sure if I'll hardline it or not. This bunch of fittings was actually for my to order case labs. Waiting for the white though


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> sorry i was on the mobile ,i marked it with circle the yellow part inside block:
> https://hizliresim.com/gAMraR
> https://hizliresim.com/AqrDap
> 
> i cant upload pictures to the forum for some reason


So you mean the slight discolouration of the rectangular silver plate? Its stainless steel so not likely a problem with it. Maybe its an illusion or just some coolant on the metal?


----------



## Dave6531

I'll be starting my new build here soon ordering parts such as pump, res, rad, cpu block but what size tubing do most run?


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> I'll be starting my new build here soon ordering parts such as pump, res, rad, cpu block but what size tubing do most run?


Acrylic or soft? It really doesn't matter in the long run. It's personal preference. 3/8'5/8 and 3/8'1/2 is popular for soft tubes. I use 3/8'5/8


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Acrylic or soft? It really doesn't matter in the long run. It's personal preference. 3/8'5/8 and 3/8'1/2 is popular for soft tubes. I use 3/8'5/8


Thats what I'm debating right now I plan on sleeving the tubing so looks like hydraulic stainless braided lines and of course prefer the looks of acrylic or petg but soft is easier to work with.

Here's the runs I'm doing, granted its a basic mock up so they wont be 90's from rear 120 to gpu, etc... pry do 45 or so angle there


----------



## funfordcobra

Yea that looks good. I use soft because its much easier to drain and move around. If you go petg/acrylic remember to put your drain at the lowest point and don't forget it or maintenance will be your nightmare lol. Also a bleed vlave on top if your rad doesn't have fill ports.


----------



## funfordcobra

That front rad will always be hard to drain with ports up top too.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Yea that looks good. I use soft because its much easier to drain and move around. If you go petg/acrylic remember to put your drain at the lowest point and don't forget it or maintenance will be your nightmare lol. Also a bleed vlave on top if your rad doesn't have fill ports.


I'll still be putting a drain valve attached to the res as it should be lowest point using the bitspower 150 res with 3 inlets on one end so one will have a ball valve for filling, one attached to loop and i can open the other for bleeder.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> That front rad will always be hard to drain with ports up top too.


Yeah I realize that but I'm making a raised lighted panel so it would block the ports was initially planning on using a Black Ice XFlow nemesis 240 might do some measuring see if I can fit it and if so then I can put a T with drain vavle there as that would be lowest point.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Nice. Did you use the hard tubing? If so, was it difficult to work with?
> 
> Thanks


No this is my 3rd acrylic build I hadn't built a PC in 13 years until about a year and a half ago and did it on my first try this was my first build in the luxe. All it takes is the right tools the right beer and a good mindset (which comes from the good beer)







on my nova build I winged a lot of bends and the hole bending only took a hour or 2.



And my second S8


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> No this is my 3rd acrylic build I hadn't built a PC in 13 years until about a year and a half ago and did it on my first try this was my first build in the luxe. All it takes is the right tools the right beer and a good mindset (which comes from the good beer)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my nova build I winged a lot of bends and the hole bending only took a hour or 2.
> 
> 
> 
> And my second S8


Nice and clean looking.







I am just collecting items for my water loop build and saw yours and it got me to thinking that maybe I want to try the hard tubing - so much nicer looking. I'm very handy and should have no problems. I watched one of the manufacturer's step by step video on how to heat and and shape them. Do you mount them the same way as the non acrylic tubes using compression fittings or are there some special connectors for hard tubes? I'm researching now, but just thought I'd ask. Which tubes did you use or recommend?

This could be a nice project for me since I've decided not to upgrade any of the components. Oh, the beer would just put me to sleep. My body is not used to it anymore.









Also, what type of coolant mix are you using? I've read where coloring was a problem.

Thanks


----------



## SavellM

Hard tube is definitely the way to go.
Makes any build look so much cleaner with straight lines.



In other news...
Would a Black Ice Nemesis GTX be better cooling than a XSPC AX Rad?
Maybe Alpha NexXxoS Monsta? What is the best Rad right now?

(Currently have XSPC AX v1, but happy to replace for something better)

Lastly what are the best fans right now too in terms of noise/cooling?


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Nice and clean looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am just collecting items for my water loop build and saw yours and it got me to thinking that maybe I want to try the hard tubing - so much nicer looking. I'm very handy and should have no problems. I watched one of the manufacturer's step by step video on how to heat and and shape them. Do you mount them the same way as the non acrylic tubes using compression fittings or are there some special connectors for hard tubes? I'm researching now, but just thought I'd ask. Which tubes did you use or recommend?
> 
> This could be a nice project for me since I've decided not to upgrade any of the components. Oh, the beer would just put me to sleep. My body is not used to it anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


You use rigid fittings similar idea but u chamber the edges so you don't scar orings when u push them in and you also can use silicone lube to get them to go in easier I recommend the bitspower fittings


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Hard tube is definitely the way to go.
> Makes any build look so much cleaner with straight lines.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news...
> Would a Black Ice Nemesis GTX be better cooling than a XSPC AX Rad?
> What is the best Rad right now?
> 
> (Currently have XSPC AX v1, but happy to replace for something better)
> 
> Lastly what are the best fans right now too in terms of noise/cooling?


Here is a Rad RoundUp for 2015 by some of the Cats that reside occasionally on OCN.

TCO


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Here is a Rad RoundUp for 2015 by some of the Cats that reside occasionally on OCN.
> 
> TCO


Ye I read that the other day.

So the EK CoolStream XE rads look the best?
Also they didnt have XSPC AX Rads in the listing.

Just debating about replacing mine.

And best fans?
Was thinking some Noctua NF-F12 PWM fans?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Ye I read that the other day.
> 
> So the EK CoolStream XE rads look the best?
> Also they didnt have *XSPC AX Rads in the listing.*
> 
> Just debating about replacing mine.
> 
> And best fans?
> Was thinking some Noctua NF-F12 PWM fans?


They Might be trying to tell you something.









Fan questions should be Directed to The Roundup Here on OCN

I have a hard time answering questions about things like this. I am a tad bias when it comes to these things.

TCO


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> They Might be trying to tell you something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan questions should be Directed to The Roundup Here on OCN
> 
> I have a hard time answering questions about things like this. I am a tad bias when it comes to these things.
> 
> TCO


LOL thanks for the link again.

Where does your BIAS lead you?
Put yourself in my shoes, would you replace your AX Rads for something else?
If you did replace yours, what would you replace them with?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> LOL thanks for the link again.
> 
> Where does your BIAS lead you?
> Put yourself in my shoes, would you replace your AX Rads for something else?
> If you did replace yours, what would you replace them with?


Well, If I were to give advice, Personally I have purchased quite a Few V3 RX XSPC Rads. They have Mediocre Reviews. I run them with 1300 Rpm Fans. Bitfenix Spectre Pros, and I used NB ELOOPS for my S3 build.

The NB Eloops are sexy, very, but Performance could be better with another brand I am sure, or Higher Rpms. I like looks also, So The Vadars were not going to fit the bill. I believe that Parum Makes a Pretty Nice looking fan also that was starting to get me a tad aroused although they ask the world for them, just like EK does for theirs. I only needed a couple Eloops for my S3 build so buying 3 wasn't bad, but when I needed closer to 20 fans for my SMA8 build, Price/Fan was a big thing to consider, 10$ a fan, 15$ a Fan etc.

TCO


----------



## crafty615

So I am trying to figure out how to do orient my acrylic tubing for my desk build. Would this work well?



In the middle of the bottom line is a Q block with a drain valve, water temp sensor, and a stop cap. Would the tube be able to support all of that? Or do i need to figure out some way to support it?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> So I am trying to figure out how to do orient my acrylic tubing for my desk build. Would this work well?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the middle of the bottom line is a Q block with a drain valve, water temp sensor, and a stop cap. Would the tube be able to support all of that? Or do i need to figure out some way to support it?


I don't think its a good idea to have your pump not directly after your reservoir. But correct me if I am wrong but you going to run that pump dry by having that way which will in turn damage or fry ya pump.

NVM its a desk build... was looking at if it was a stand up case with your pump higher than the res.


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well, If I were to give advice, Personally I have purchased quite a Few V3 RX XSPC Rads. They have Mediocre Reviews. I run them with 1300 Rpm Fans. Bitfenix Spectre Pros, and I used NB ELOOPS for my S3 build.
> 
> The NB Eloops are sexy, very, but Performance could be better with another brand I am sure, or Higher Rpms. I like looks also, So The Vadars were not going to fit the bill. I believe that Parum Makes a Pretty Nice looking fan also that was starting to get me a tad aroused although they ask the world for them, just like EK does for theirs. I only needed a couple Eloops for my S3 build so buying 3 wasn't bad, but when I needed closer to 20 fans for my SMA8 build, Price/Fan was a big thing to consider, 10$ a fan, 15$ a Fan etc.
> 
> TCO


Cheers buddy, appreciate it.

Looking at some NB fans now, heard good things about them.
I dont care about looks as mine are under my desk so hidden, I care about performance to noise.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Cheers buddy, appreciate it.
> 
> Looking at some NB fans now, heard good things about them.
> I dont care about looks as mine are under my desk so hidden, I care about performance to noise.


I understand. Noise is a big factor for Some. Enjoy Shopping









TCO


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> I don't think its a good idea to have your pump not directly after your reservoir. But correct me if I am wrong but you going to run that pump dry by having that way which will in turn damage or fry ya pump.
> 
> NVM its a desk build... was looking at if it was a stand up case with your pump higher than the res.


Yeah the picture got rotated some how. When filling, i will tilt the desk so that the res feeds into the pump, its just a long run from res to pump. Just need to figure out if theres anything i can do bettr and if the tube can support the Q block.


----------



## Rahldrac

Is there any 200mm fan that is any good at all for radiators? Are they so bad that it would be better with a 320 radiator than a 400?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Is there any 200mm fan that is any good at all for radiators? Are they so bad that it would be better with a 320 radiator than a 400?


http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/accessories/spectre-pro#specs

These look promising. There aren't a lot of options out there though.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Where? I'm not seeing it. If I were on my phone it wouldn't look any worse for wear. Which fitting? Or are you referring to block internal?
> 
> If you're referring to the slight coolant breach going on internally, that's normal. Is there some discoloration that I am not seeing at that point?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> So you mean the slight discolouration of the rectangular silver plate? Its stainless steel so not likely a problem with it. Maybe its an illusion or just some coolant on the metal?


sorry, are we talking about the same part to be clear did you see the circle i made?Its the yellow color inside the cpu block and isnt it nickel plated ?


----------



## Ceadderman

I saw no circle just a straight pic.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/accessories/spectre-pro#specs
> 
> These look promising. There aren't a lot of options out there though.


These fans look nice, but performance isn't there. There are a ton of 120 fans with better performance than these things. They aren't awful, I like them for their aesthetics, but other than that they don't push much air at all. They are fairly quiet though, I guess.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> These fans look nice, but performance isn't there. There are a ton of 120 fans with better performance than these things. They aren't awful, I like them for their aesthetics, but other than that they don't push much air at all. They are fairly quiet though, I guess.


The main reason in my opinion for doing a larger fan is for lower RPM/noise. If you don't care about fan noise then get 120s or 140s as there are more high RPM versions of those fans available.

Edit: For example, the Vardar F1-140 runs 64CFM at 1150RPM/26dBA, whereas the Specter pro 200 moves 148CFM at 900RPM/27.5dBA. To achieve the same CFM out of a Vardar 140 you have to buy the F4 and it runs 144CFM at 2500RPM/48.4dBA. Thats 20 dB or 100 x louder.

Edit2: Comparing the static pressure, those fans are pretty terrible. Only 1.26mH2O, just a hare more than the Vardar F1.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The main reason in my opinion for doing a larger fan is for lower RPM/noise. If you don't care about fan noise then get 120s or 140s as there are more high RPM versions of those fans available.


I only commented because I have the 230mm version and it definitely doesn't seem to perform very well. I have one in the front of my case cooling my HDD rack area, and I can barely feel any air movement on the other side of the rack. The fan also feels kind of cheap...but like I said, they do look great and that's why I have them. My whole rig is outfitted in black Spectre Pros, actually, but only the front has a 230mm, the rest are 120mm with a single 140mm in the rear. I own about 12-16 of the 120mm version, in various rigs. It's actually my favourite fan, but only based on aesthetics alone. I also have a Spectre non-pro 200mm, it performs about the same I guess.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I saw no circle just a straight pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Omg i think i have virus in my pc how about now ?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Omg i think i have virus in my pc how about now ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That center section you circled is the jet plate. It's made out of stainless steel and not plated.

That will be the last thing in your loop to see corrosion. Probably leftocer grease from someones hand.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Omg i think i have virus in my pc how about now ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That center section you circled is the jet plate. It's made out of stainless steel and not plated.
> 
> That will be the last thing in your loop to see corrosion. Probably leftocer grease from someones hand.
Click to expand...

The circled portion - jet plate turned yellow.


----------



## emsj86

I feel like I'm going to break my darkside led when I take it out of the tube but damn they our good. I wasn't a believer now I see the errors of my previous led ways


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I feel like I'm going to break my *darkside led* when I take it out of the tube *but damn they are good.* I wasn't a believer now I see the errors of my previous led ways










I love um!

TCO


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I feel like I'm going to break my *darkside led* when I take it out of the tube *but damn they are good.* I wasn't a believer now I see the errors of my previous led ways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love um!
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

They are pretty nice, other than their choice of connector. Seems like they want you to buy into their connector system rather than using something standard. I guess it makes sense if you need to control voltage, just wasn't too thrilled when I finally took a good look at mine and saw it had a strange connector, that wouldn't plug into anything typical.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The circled portion - jet plate turned yellow.




i see the same stuff here too


----------



## emsj86

Yea there connections our odd but I've never had lights so good. Specially the m and m impressed me as I've had ever brand and every brand died fast. Let alone they weren't good to begin with. The darkside 5mm for my pump top makes my polish job worth it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> They are pretty nice, other than their choice of connector. Seems like they want you to buy into their connector system rather than using something standard. I guess it makes sense if you need to control voltage, just wasn't too thrilled when I finally took a good look at mine and saw it had a strange connector, that wouldn't plug into anything typical.


Yea... I ordered a ton of 3pin extensions to hook it up to the 8 Way fan splitter.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

TCO did you remove or keep the bp anti cyclone fitting in the res for the aurora ? I just bought the booster and wasn't sure to remove it or not


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> TCO did you remove or keep the bp anti cyclone fitting in the res for the aurora ? I just bought the booster and wasn't sure to remove it or not


Never had an Anti Cyclone. I pieced the Res together.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Duh forgot you didn't use he bp res combo. Sorry


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Duh forgot you didn't use he bp res combo. Sorry


No Problem. No Need to say sorry. Your builds looking good too BTW

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

I have a G1/4 10k temp sensor connect to my top radiator in my loop. The cable is not long enough to reach my Corsair Link Commander Mini. Do they sell an extender for 10k cables?

I can either get a 10k extension (if they make one), or buy some fan extension and move the Commander Mini closer to the 10K sensor.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No Problem. No Need to say sorry. Your builds looking good too BTW
> 
> TCO


Thank you means a lot. If you have or anyone has any advise or thoughts on what I should do or shouldn't do I like to hear it. I need to get the camera pics uploaded tonight. And I need to do some cable management. All my custom cables connect but our slightly smaller and length than I was hoping for as not much slack to work with. Debating on adding the aurora 2 booster right away or to wait for alittle. I want to see my temp gains after bleeding and my motherboard temps now seeing I painted the heatsinks black (I took a video of temp benchmarks before the build so I can compare them )


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> These fans look nice, but performance isn't there. There are a ton of 120 fans with better performance than these things. They aren't awful, I like them for their aesthetics, but other than that they don't push much air at all. They are fairly quiet though, I guess.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> The main reason in my opinion for doing a larger fan is for lower RPM/noise. If you don't care about fan noise then get 120s or 140s as there are more high RPM versions of those fans available.
> 
> Edit: For example, the Vardar F1-140 runs 64CFM at 1150RPM/26dBA, whereas the Specter pro 200 moves 148CFM at 900RPM/27.5dBA. To achieve the same CFM out of a Vardar 140 you have to buy the F4 and it runs 144CFM at 2500RPM/48.4dBA. Thats 20 dB or 100 x louder.
> 
> Edit2: Comparing the static pressure, those fans are pretty terrible. Only 1.26mH2O, just a hare more than the Vardar F1.


The thing is that right now I am running 4x360 rads. All have fans running on 700 rpm. so noise is a big factor for me. So maybe this is not such a bad idea?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have a G1/4 10k temp sensor connect to my top radiator in my loop. The cable is not long enough to reach my Corsair Link Commander Mini. Do they sell an extender for 10k cables?
> 
> I can either get a 10k extension (if they make one), or buy some fan extension and move the Commander Mini closer to the 10K sensor.


PPCs has 2pin extensions. I would look into those.









~Ceadder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Quick 'n' Dirty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still wariting for some Parts...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Nice. Did you use the hard tubing? If so, was it difficult to work with?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> No this is my 3rd acrylic build I hadn't built a PC in 13 years until about a year and a half ago and did it on my first try this was my first build in the luxe. All it takes is the right tools the right beer and a good mindset (which comes from the good beer)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my nova build I winged a lot of bends and the hole bending only took a hour or 2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my second S8
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Great looking builds.


----------



## fast_fate

Review up, even if not yet available,
Surely any day now they'll be released


----------



## crafty615

Does anyone know of a good inline flow sensor or meter? (I dont know what the difference is








) I was looking at bitspower and koolance ones, but koolance has a bunch of ones that look the same but are all different so i dont know what the differences are.


----------



## Ceadderman

Whenever in doubt, go with the BP unit. I've rarely if ever heard of too many problems with them except for the occasional rotary failure.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dave6531

Alright just need some help deciding rads. Stuck between these two

The XSPC AX240: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-xspc-ax240-dual-fan-radiator-white.html#Specifications

and

Black Ice Nemesis 240GTX: http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-240gtx-ultra-stealth-dual-core-xtreme-profile-radiator-primer.html#Features

I will also be using a Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS xflow


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> You use rigid fittings similar idea but u chamber the edges so you don't scar orings when u push them in and you also can use silicone lube to get them to go in easier I recommend the bitspower fittings


Thanks you for the info and suggestions. I will look into their fittings.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Hard tube is definitely the way to go.
> Makes any build look so much cleaner with straight lines.
> 
> 
> 
> In other news...
> Would a Black Ice Nemesis GTX be better cooling than a XSPC AX Rad?
> Maybe Alpha NexXxoS Monsta? What is the best Rad right now?
> 
> (Currently have XSPC AX v1, but happy to replace for something better)
> 
> Lastly what are the best fans right now too in terms of noise/cooling?


What type of coolant mix are you using? I've read where coloring was a problem.

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Alright just need some help deciding rads. Stuck between these two
> 
> The XSPC AX240: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-xspc-ax240-dual-fan-radiator-white.html#Specifications
> 
> and
> 
> Black Ice Nemesis 240GTX: http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-240gtx-ultra-stealth-dual-core-xtreme-profile-radiator-primer.html#Features
> 
> I will also be using a Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS xflow


I'd make the choice based on keeping the same look for all the rads, as consistency is a big part of pleasing aesthetics, even though we don't actively think about it.

Having all HWL rads that share a similar visual appearance will look nicer than having an oddball in the mix, and the fact that the HWL you linked is much thicker than the AX can only be a plus.

If you want white rads, since that's what you linked, the AX is a somewhat off-white color, and I had to paint my factory white AX360 so that it looked really white to go in a white case.

The HWL white is a nice white white, and if you need to paint your xflow to match, look at using an automotive paint or an "appliance white" if you want the ease of a rattle can.

Since the AX is more comparable to the GTS both size wise and capability wise, and both are thinner than the GTX, are you sure you meant to link the GTX . . . . .

Assuming you have room for the GTX, there isn't any reason to have a hard time deciding between it and the AX.

Darlene


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd make the choice based on keeping the same look for all the rads, as consistency is a big part of pleasing aesthetics, even though we don't actively think about it.
> 
> Having all HWL rads that share a similar visual appearance will look nicer than having an oddball in the mix, and the fact that the HWL you linked is much thicker than the AX can only be a plus.
> 
> If you want white rads, since that's what you linked, the AX is a somewhat off-white color, and I had to paint my factory white AX360 so that it looked really white to go in a white case.
> 
> The HWL white is a nice white white, and if you need to paint your xflow to match, look at using an automotive paint or an "appliance white" if you want the ease of a rattle can.
> 
> Since the AX is more comparable to the GTS both size wise and capability wise, and both are thinner than the GTX, are you sure you meant to link the GTX . . . . .
> 
> Assuming you have room for the GTX, there isn't any reason to have a hard time deciding between it and the AX.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the info yeah wasn't sure on performance wise that was the major factor and of course keeping them looking the same is huge. Good to know about the color also as it's hard to tell in the photos. Since the inside of my case will be some grey, primarily white with some red accents think it should look good.

Now to just decide which reservoir to go with bitspower with white caps or ek with white caps


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Whenever in doubt, go with the BP unit. I've rarely if ever heard of too many problems with them except for the occasional rotary failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I will have to look into that one, thanks.

Does anyone use a flow sensor that could give me some insight on how they work and what i need to mske them work?


----------



## Z0eff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I will have to look into that one, thanks.
> 
> Does anyone use a flow sensor that could give me some insight on how they work and what i need to mske them work?


I've been using the "INS-FM17N Coolant Flow Meter" with success for 2 years in combination with a "Flow Meter Frequency Adapter" which is needed to convert the tacho signal to a higher value that a standard motherboard fan header can read. You can for example connect this to your CPU fan header which will cause the motherboard to shutdown if the reading goes to zero. The RPM value is milliliters per minute.

For my Skylake build I've bought a "Flow Meter Adapter With Display" mostly because I was curious which works in the same way as the previous adapter but has it's own display as well as a fan cable that you can connect to your CPU fan header.

If you don't want to fiddle with all that then you can just get the "INS-FM18D Coolant Flow Meter with Display", however you'll lose the option to have your PC shut itself down when there is no more coolant flow.

EDIT: Oh forgot - I'm also using the Flow sensor "high flow" which I use with an Aquaero, giving me a second measurement point which agrees almost exactly with the Koolance flow meter.


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> What type of coolant mix are you using? I've read where coloring was a problem.
> 
> Thanks


Using Mayhems.

I've used pastel/dyes/ice dragon.

Nothing has stained at all.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Alright just need some help deciding rads. Stuck between these two
> 
> The XSPC AX240: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-xspc-ax240-dual-fan-radiator-white.html#Specifications
> 
> and
> 
> Black Ice Nemesis 240GTX: http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-240gtx-ultra-stealth-dual-core-xtreme-profile-radiator-primer.html#Features
> 
> I will also be using a Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS xflow


Since 2007-08 I have used nothing but Hardware labs and with my new build this year I'm using a 360GTX and a 360 L-Series and would recommend them....


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Since 2007-08 I have used nothing but Hardware labs and with my new build this year I'm using a 360GTX and a 360 L-Series and would recommend them....


Sounds good, anyone have any preference on Ek or Bitspower res?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Sounds good, anyone have any preference on Ek or Bitspower res?


Love the Bitspower 150ml and 250ml Res Z Tanks. SHould come with an aquapipe also.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

HWLabs definitely.

Only reason I will be using EK this time is for aesthetics and they'be come down in price with their newer units. Their older ones were flat out expensive. $150 : $60 for that of the HWLabs.

And since I've modded in more room for 2 Moar 360s I can do thicker Radiators instead of using Stealth only.









HWLabs just puts out amazing Rads tho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Love the Bitspower 150ml and 250ml Res Z Tanks. SHould come with an aquapipe also.
> 
> TCO


Yeah thats what I'm looking at but the white version, just have to do some more tube bending vs if I used the ek but might look nicer vs having just a short 2 or 3" section


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Yeah thats what I'm looking at but the white version, just have to do some more tube bending vs if I used the ek but might look nicer vs having just a short 2 or 3" section


The White One's I wish I could have found when I was building. So SLeek

TCO


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The White One's I wish I could have found when I was building. So SLeek
> 
> TCO


Looking at the 150 ppc has 3 left I like the fact the ends aren't huge and bulky like EK's. It'll be my first watercooling build and doing it in an s340 which I'm modifying so should be interesting as there hasn't been to many done.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Looking at the 150 ppc has 3 left I like the fact the ends aren't huge and bulky like EK's. It'll be my first watercooling build and doing it in an s340 which I'm modifying so should be interesting as there hasn't been to many done.


The S340 looks like an H440 (I think the case is called)

TCO


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Using Mayhems.
> 
> I've used pastel/dyes/ice dragon.
> 
> Nothing has stained at all.


Thanks. That coolant seems to be a popular choice.

Question. I have not decided on any color yet, but has anyone every mixed a couple different colors to make a unique color fluid?


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The S340 looks like an H440 (I think the case is called)
> 
> TCO


Its similar but smaller couple other characteristics but do have some similarities. I wouldn't mind building in a caselabs or TJ-07 but just dont have that cash to spend on a case.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Its similar but smaller couple other characteristics but do have some similarities. *I wouldn't mind building in a caselabs or TJ-07* but just dont have that cash to spend on a case.


I understand the position. I would like to see what I could come up with in an Li-Lian PC-06s but, noticing that it would run me around 550 on amazon is a no brainer to buy a monitor instead.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

The cables may soon be replaced with ensourcee multicolored ones, and CABLE COMBS, CABLE COMBS, and CABLE COMBS


----------



## emsj86

Just bought a data metro vac. Feel like it will be worth t over going filters that would cost more for the sm8. Now would it be weird for me to take my pc to have photos done. I really want some pro photos of the pc.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand the position. I would like to see what I could come up with in an Li-Lian PC-06s but, noticing that it would run me around 550 on amazon is a no brainer to buy a monitor instead.
> 
> TCO


Yeah its tough nice builds though im jealous haha. Doesnt help im trying to finish building my one of a kind pipe desk.


----------



## PCModderMike

Tonight was pedestal work.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was pedestal work.


You're making me want to pick up a pedestal for my S5, it has been sitting in my cart for a couple of weeks now.


----------



## fast_fate




----------



## kgtuning

@fast_fate who makes that radiator?


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> @fast_fate who makes that radiator?


Black Ice gts xflow
s
Alright can use some input stuck trying to figure out what fans to use. With a black ice 240 gtx in front and 120 gts xflow in rear that will be painted white I'm looking at
Parvum F1.0 pry 2 black in the front since it'll be exposed and 2 white or 3 black with 2 in front and 1 white in rear.
Or NBeloops which are white
Or EK-Vardar F4-120ER 2 in white and 2 in the black and grey.
Also open to suggestions but trying to stick along color scheme as well.

Here's the build exterior I'm working on


I know in picture doesn't show it but the fans will be visible in the front
The inside will be primarily white with some red accents and some spots with grey and black.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> @fast_fate who makes that radiator?


----------



## kgtuning

Very cool thanks.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Is there any 200mm fan that is any good at all for radiators? Are they so bad that it would be better with a 320 radiator than a 400?


it isnt a 200mm but it is a 180mm with the most performance youre going to get silverstone ap-182. i think most of the 200mm and 400mm rads have both 180 and 200 mounting holes though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Fate just go 4 Vards all black and grey. They will blend in well with your theme.

200 Rads do come with 180 mounting plates. Although bit Fenix does have decent 200s that should mount right up. The size of those fans make them pretty quiet to begin with. Although am not sure about their static pressure. So mounting them on a radiator while not out may be a tad noisier on a radiator than over case mount.









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm running two of the 280 versions of that rad. Love em! 10C deltaT at 500W+ with slow fans.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was pedestal work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're making me want to pick up a pedestal for my S5, it has been sitting in my cart for a couple of weeks now.
Click to expand...


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> it isnt a 200mm but it is a 180mm with the most performance youre going to get silverstone ap-182. i think most of the 200mm and 400mm rads have both 180 and 200 mounting holes though.


Just feel like it's a bit wasted with a 200mm rad if you only put 180 fans on them.
But I think noctua is coming with 200mm fans later this year, they did show them earlier this year at least. And too bad about the color.
(And the noctua fans I've had haven't really been that amazing).


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> it isnt a 200mm but it is a 180mm with the most performance youre going to get silverstone ap-182. i think most of the 200mm and 400mm rads have both 180 and 200 mounting holes though.
> 
> 
> 
> Just feel like it's a bit wasted with a 200mm rad if you only put 180 fans on them.
> But I think noctua is coming with 200mm fans later this year, they did show them earlier this year at least. And too bad about the color.
> (And the noctua fans I've had haven't really been that amazing).
Click to expand...

It really depends which 200mm fans you're comparing the AP182s with. The Silverstones are very powerful and push more air than any 200-230mm PC fan I've ever heard of. They perform better because they go into far faster RPMs than any alternatives, but their airflow is also quite well directed. Unless the fans are going to always be run at low RPMs, the Silverstones are the best choice IMO.


----------



## Rahldrac

It's always a trade off. If the preforms better because they operate at a higher RPM range than the others, then they probably make a lot more noise too. All my fans right now operate well below 1000 rpm, so I do like it quiet (Curse you EVGA 1000w G2). So for me it kinda defeats the purpose


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have not been just sitting on my arse,I have been doing stuff too......

Copper...lovely,lovely copper........


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Are you going to cool the GPU too? You have enough rads for it. Good luck with the overclock. I cant get my 8350 24/7 stable at 5.0, only 4.8GHz. It really comes to life at 4.8! My vcore is 1.5V and I never get over 46c while gaming.


Sorry I missed your post. No I'm not going to cool my gpu's. They are CF 270x's and I'm not a big gamer. I can run my 8350 at 4.93 24/7 but when stressing I reach 65 deg C. I'd rather keep it below 60 so I'm at 4.8 and you are right, this seems like a sweet spot. I want a 5GHz sweet spot. I already had the UT60 and just picked up an XT45 after my HAD X came in. My MB is the Giga UD5 R5. I'm happy with the way it overclocks. FSB or multi, it works great.


----------



## emsj86

I'm still waiting for the loop to bleed but figure I see if these out some what normal cpu temps. (480 ut60 and 360 ek xe rad sp120 fans at 800 idle 1400 load) idle 32 and load 68. (I7 4790k 4.7 1.29v). Gpus idle 29 and max 42. Do Gpus seem find but cpu I thought would be better may just need some time or A re apply (there not far off my old systems temps on cpu)


----------



## funfordcobra

That's about right. You are running 1.3v to it remember.


----------



## El Scotch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Tonight was pedestal work.


Does EK still make the dual d5 blocks?


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm still waiting for the loop to bleed but figure I see if these out some what normal cpu temps. (480 ut60 and 360 ek xe rad sp120 fans at 800 idle 1400 load) idle 32 and load 68. (I7 4790k 4.7 1.29v). Gpus idle 29 and max 42. Do Gpus seem find but cpu I thought would be better may just need some time or A re apply (there not far off my old systems temps on cpu)


Your CPU temperature is fine. Remember, the GPU block is direct contact with the core, but the CPU core have to transfer the heat to the IHS then transfer to the block.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Scotch*
> 
> Does EK still make the dual d5 blocks?


I do believe the CSQ Dual-D5 setup from EK has been discontinued. I can tell you it works great though - just brought mine online last week!







I would check retailers for old stock ASAP if it's what you want.

Pic during first install of Windows on Daedalic (side cover off):


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have not been just sitting on my arse,I have been doing stuff too......
> 
> Copper...lovely,lovely copper........


Beautiful!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Scotch*
> 
> Does EK still make the dual d5 blocks?


No, they do not. EKWB has them listed as End of Life. When sold out, that will be the end.

They do have these: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-2x-pump


----------



## Ceadderman

I have the v2 of that dual top for sale. It's a great top mated with 2 solid performing pumps.

I'm moving to D5. Not because D5 is better. It's because the space I have to mount my pumps is too small to accept a dual top setup between two 360 Radiators even without Pull fan setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Question: Here's my setup;

Two D5 PWM pumps
560GTS
RX480
RX360
RX240
SP120 QE and EK Vardars 120ER/140ER

My two Titan X's are flashed and modded pushing 1.274v. The max temp during gaming is 52c and 56c when running FireStrike. It hasn't yet been a week, so I'm fairly positive I still have bubbles and what not. But do these temps sound a little high with how many radiators I have? The max water temps I've seen was no more than 34c. Even when my water temps are 30c, temps can still reach 48, 49, and 50c. Could this be bad mounts or something? I'm using the EK Ectotherm via the star pattern.

My temps did drop about 10c and water temps at least 10c, but these temps just seem to high. Ambient is around 27c


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Question: Here's my setup;
> 
> Two D5 PWM pumps
> 560GTS
> RX480
> RX360
> RX240
> SP120 QE and EK Vardars 120ER/140ER
> 
> My two Titan X's are flashed and modded pushing 1.274v. The max temp during gaming is 52c and 56c when running FireStrike. It hasn't yet been a week, so I'm fairly positive I still have bubbles and what not. But do these temps sound a little high with how many radiators I have? The max water temps I've seen was no more than 34c. Even when my water temps are 30c, temps can still reach 48, 49, and 50c. Could this be bad mounts or something? I'm using the EK Ectotherm via the star pattern.
> 
> My temps did drop about 10c and water temps at least 10c, but these temps just seem to high. Ambient is around 27c
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That does sound like poor contact with the gpu dies. If your max water is only 34c with 27c ambient, thats a 7C delta-t. I would call that very good.


----------



## kizwan

I doubt poor contact because it (high temp) would happened immediately. I used Ectotherm initially but don't like it & changed it to Shin-Etsu. Well, I don't like it because it is unknown TIM to me while I have been using Shin-Etsu for years. Core temp did dropped few degrees with Shin-Etsu though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shin Etsu is *very* underrated imho. You can use it on every type of heatsink. I use it on my CPU and NB/SB chipsets to great success.

I intend to get ThermalGrizzly HydroNaut and put it up against G751 and see how it shakes out. 1 factor going for the HN is the applicator with which it's applied. A thinner spread could be beneficial to G751 as well. But, I plan to use my CPU Temps to do the talking. Chipsets and VRM testing is probably out due to the thin coverage of the HN paste application unless I don't use the applicator for those as the chip to block tolerances for those chips is wider than CPU testing or will have to apply rice method.









~Ceadder


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shin Etsu is *very* underrated imho. You can use it on every type of heatsink. I use it on my CPU and NB/SB chipsets to great success.
> 
> I intend to get ThermalGrizzly HydroNaut and put it up against G751 and see how it shakes out. 1 factor going for the HN is the applicator with which it's applied. A thinner spread could be beneficial to G751 as well. But, I plan to use my CPU Temps to do the talking. Chipsets and VRM testing is probably out due to the thin coverage of the HN paste application unless I don't use the applicator for those as the chip to block tolerances for those chips is wider than CPU testing or will have to apply rice method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm looking forward for the result, especially against the mighty G751.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shin Etsu is *very* underrated imho. You can use it on every type of heatsink. I use it on my CPU and NB/SB chipsets to great success.
> 
> I intend to get ThermalGrizzly HydroNaut and put it up against G751 and see how it shakes out. 1 factor going for the HN is the applicator with which it's applied. A thinner spread could be beneficial to G751 as well. But, I plan to use my CPU Temps to do the talking. Chipsets and VRM testing is probably out due to the thin coverage of the HN paste application unless I don't use the applicator for those as the chip to block tolerances for those chips is wider than CPU testing or will have to apply rice method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking forward for the result, especially against the mighty G751.
Click to expand...

I wonder if anyone is willing to donate an empty/almost empty Thermal Grizzly tube to the cause.

Cause the best way to do it (after much thinking about it) is to use a similar application process in both instances.

If I get a 1g tube of TG and a 3g tube I could theoretically start with TG testing and push the remaining contents of the 1g tube into the 3g but at a cost of $28.

I will do it that way if I have to, but I'd like to just get a single tube of it to review since it would be cheaper and I already have a 1g tube of G751 on hand since it's my go to TIM.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm trying to bleed my loop of bubbles. Is it okay if I turn my PC all the way on its side? now I know they can't be run upside down, but on their sides is okay, right?


----------



## Ceadderman

So long as the loop is plugged or vented properly you should be okay. But I would use an external power source and bleed the loop with your system shut down. And your inlet remains submerged with coolant goes without question.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm still waiting for the loop to bleed but figure I see if these out some what normal cpu temps. (480 ut60 and 360 ek xe rad sp120 fans at 800 idle 1400 load) idle 32 and load 68. (I7 4790k 4.7 1.29v). Gpus idle 29 and max 42. Do Gpus seem find but cpu I thought would be better may just need some time or A re apply (there not far off my old systems temps on cpu)
> 
> 
> 
> Your CPU temperature is fine. Remember, the GPU block is direct contact with the core, but the CPU core have to transfer the heat to the IHS then transfer to the block.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm still waiting for the loop to bleed but figure I see if these out some what normal cpu temps. (480 ut60 and 360 ek xe rad sp120 fans at 800 idle 1400 load) idle 32 and load 68. (I7 4790k 4.7 1.29v). Gpus idle 29 and max 42. Do Gpus seem find but cpu I thought would be better may just need some time or A re apply (there not far off my old systems temps on cpu)
> 
> 
> 
> Your CPU temperature is fine. Remember, the GPU block is direct contact with the core, but the CPU core have to transfer the heat to the IHS then transfer to the block.
Click to expand...

Its actually down to heat density rather than the IHS interface.....GPU's have a low heat density,while CPU's have a high heat density making it harder to cool.


----------



## emsj86

Thanks guys. Yea just thought is have a bigger temp difference going from 360 rad (ex360 one of he worest) and a 240. To a 480 and 360 both thick rads as well. I ayes around last night an went to a stable 1.26 for 4.6 ghz and hottest core was 61 so that's good. I asked because I always see when I google everyone saying they get max load 54 and low mid 20 idle on a h100i at 1.28-1.3 volts on ibt, aida64, and occt. Which I always found to seem not right


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I intend to get ThermalGrizzly HydroNaut and put it up against G751 and see how it shakes out. 1 factor going for the HN is the applicator with which it's applied. A thinner spread could be beneficial to G751 as well.
> ~Ceadder


I have tried the Kryonaut (application only). We always hope for lower temperatures in this hobby, but in my case, I was looking for an easier spreadable paste that would give at least the same performance of the GC-Extreme normally used, but at times can be daunting to spread, even went heated a bit. The Kryonaut was harder to spread when using the applicator. I couldn't get the nuance of the applicator down after it seemed so easy in the Der8auer videos. It was *much* easier for me to spread with a spatula. That's just my experience though.

I was getting close to final loop assembly when the EK XE series radiator thing happened so an actual system run to see how well it works has not happened yet. BTW, I choose the Kryonaut after contacting Thermal Grizzly and discussing its all around capability.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I intend to get ThermalGrizzly HydroNaut and put it up against G751 and see how it shakes out. 1 factor going for the HN is the applicator with which it's applied. A thinner spread could be beneficial to G751 as well.
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried the Kryonaut (application only). We always hope for lower temperatures in this hobby, but in my case, I was looking for an easier spreadable paste that would give at least the same performance of the GC-Extreme normally used, but at times can be daunting to spread, even went heated a bit. The Kryonaut was harder to spread when using the applicator. *I couldn't get the nuance of the applicator down after it seemed so easy in the Der8auer videos.* It was *much* easier for me to spread with a spatula. That's just my experience though.
> 
> I was getting close to final loop assembly when the EK XE series radiator thing happened so an actual system run to see how well it works has not happened yet. BTW, I choose the Kryonaut after contacting Thermal Grizzly and discussing its all around capability.
Click to expand...

Its really simple,you do need to give it some pressure tho....


----------



## LandonAaron

Well no more AIO's for me. Here is what happend with the one that I put in my fiance's computer:





Somehow the fluid dried up or the inside of radiator corroded, leaving it full of all this rock like crap. I discovered this after it leaked out all over the inside of the computer drenching the motherboard and video card in a thick oily substance causing the computer to stop functioning. This particular AIO had rubber hose which I thought had been pierced by the solder points on the back of the video card but after an extensive examination of the hose I determined that isn't where the leak was coming from. I then pulled the hoses off the radiator and to my surprise I found all this blockage and rock crap. I guess that port got so blocked on the radiator it causes enough back pressure at the pump that it started leaking from pump/water block.

Fortunately the fluid must have been non conductive, as after I dried off the motherboard and video card I was able to get the computer back up and running, though it was a huge pain as the fluid was basically like an oil. So there was no air drying every single spot had to wiped up with a towel.

Anyway, have yall ever seen anything like this before in an AIO?

I am in the process of talking to the manufacturer about a replacement, and if that doesn't pan out, then it will be time to name names, lol.


----------



## funfordcobra

I'm sure they will blame you. Especially since its Ben dissected.


----------



## russ18uk

Most PCBs are coated so you are lucky it didn't drip down onto the PSU and search its way to the connectors if it's modular or even worse if you have the PSU fan side up.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Asetek for starters.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

What in the name of all thats unholy happened here??!!?!?!

Someone went 'All in' at the annual TIM fest......


----------



## Ceadderman

lol. Kinda looks like my GPUs did when I pulled their covers off. Crazy buc-wild for sho!









~Ceadder


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Well, the more TIM you apply, the cooler it gets, right? ...Right??


----------



## SteezyTN

When I pulled the heat sinks off my 780's and titan X's, EVGA loaded it with TIM. There was so much on it.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its really simple,you do need to give it some pressure tho....


Yep, tried that. I am not faulting the paste. I am faulting myself!







What happens to me is the paste lifts in areas where there is barely an when going back across it in order to spread the paste around. I threw the applicators in the recycle bin and whipped out the ole spatula! That worked for me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What in the name of all thats unholy happened here??!!?!?!
> 
> Someone went 'All in' at the annual TIM fest......


My Strix 970 looked the same, Asus gets happy w/ the TiM


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
I bought some alphacool hardtube for my primochill rigid fittings. Even though it's the same size (10/13mm) why doesn't it fit? I know they're different brands but shouldn't it fit? I was just wondering if it's normal or its s manufacturing error?


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought some alphacool hardtube for my primochill rigid fittings. Even though it's the same size (10/13mm) why doesn't it fit? I know they're different brands but shouldn't it fit? I was just wondering if it's normal or its s manufacturing error?


dip the openings of the tubes in boiling water.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> dip the openings of the tubes in boiling water.


It's not the tip, it's the whole tube. The top half of the fitting won't even go through either end and you can tell it's slightly to big throughout. It stretches the oring.

What I was saying was, even though it's a different brand, it should fit all the same right? I just want to know if it was my mistake buying them or the manufacturers mistake?


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

that seems to be a pretty common occurrence from what ive seen, especially when mixing brands.
Manufacturer tolerances sadly aren't as precise as one would hope.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought some alphacool hardtube for my primochill rigid fittings. Even though it's the same size (10/13mm) why doesn't it fit? I know they're different brands but shouldn't it fit? I was just wondering if it's normal or its s manufacturing error?


The Primochill rigid tubing is based on SAE measurements with an approximation to the closest metric size. Primochill fitting are the same so they match.

Alphacool rigid tubing is based on metric size and sometimes expressed in SAE measurement to give various consumers a point of reference to the nearest inch.

If you are using a fitting based on SAE standard measurement, it is best to purchase tubing based on the same measurement standard. You have a greater chance of compatibility.


----------



## Dave6531

Anyone have any experience between NB eloops or parvum fans on radiators? Stuck between the two.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought some alphacool hardtube for my primochill rigid fittings. Even though it's the same size (10/13mm) why doesn't it fit? I know they're different brands but shouldn't it fit? I was just wondering if it's normal or its s manufacturing error?


They aren't the same size. Alphacool seem to use their own metric sizes but Primochill is imperial 3/8 x 1/2.

Rigid tubing relies on accurately sized tube much more so than soft tube. Sometimes even though brands are labeled the same like Primochill and Monsoon the differences are enough to cause problems.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> The Primochill rigid tubing is based on SAE measurements with an approximation to the closest metric size. Primochill fitting are the same so they match.
> 
> Alphacool rigid tubing is based on metric size and sometimes expressed in SAE measurement to give various consumers a point of reference to the nearest inch.
> 
> If you are using a fitting based on SAE standard measurement, it is best to purchase tubing based on the same measurement standard. You have a greater chance of compatibility.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They aren't the same size. Alphacool seem to use their own metric sizes but Primochill is imperial 3/8 x 1/2.
> 
> Rigid tubing relies on accurately sized tube much more so than soft tube. Sometimes even though brands are labeled the same like Primochill and Monsoon the differences are enough to cause problems.


Awesome, that's what I wanted to hear.
I already bought some Primochill ones. Was just wondering why it wasn't going in.

Thanks you two. +REP


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Anyone have any experience between NB eloops or parvum fans on radiators? Stuck between the two.


I've got 9 NB eloop in my build (and some vardars), and I must say I really like them. I have undervolted them all to 5v, so they are super silent.
Problem with them is that you can't attach them as pull unless you have washers in between, because of how they are designed.
Never heard anything about parvum fans?


----------



## BrjSan

Any idea, where i can find the below in 16 mm OD size ..... couldn't find with my humble search skills.....



Also, is there any other *but good/recommended brand* that make this link _(also 16mm OD )_? i checked EK, they do not make such thing at all.

regards,


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> My Strix 970 looked the same, Asus gets happy w/ the TiM


It seems a trend, mine was like that too!


----------



## Dave6531

Cant wait to take my cooler off my 970strix for waterblock good thing I have cleaner


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Any idea, where i can find the below in 16 mm OD size ..... couldn't find with my humble search skills.....
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is there any other *but good/recommended brand* that make this link _(also 16mm OD )_? i checked EK, they do not make such thing at all.
> 
> regards,


They only have 12 OD for this kind fitting, since 16 OD just too big.


----------



## Jakusonfire

http://www.overclock.net/t/1375962/bitspower-owners-gallery/310#post_24162977

You can make something similar using 90 degree female adaptors


----------



## psycho84

A little Update...

Other Fan and some Decals


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> My Strix 970 looked the same, Asus gets happy w/ the TiM
> 
> 
> 
> It seems a trend, mine was like that too!
Click to expand...

The ASUS TIM machine spotted?


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> A little Update...
> 
> Other Fan and some Decals


Loving that green color!


----------



## emsj86

I really like that build. The case. Just simple and clean. Looks amazing


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> A little Update...
> 
> Other Fan and some Decals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


NB/Phobya eLoops looking sweet!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> The ASUS TIM machine spotted?


LMAO!


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, I have a doubt with my BP Cooling After Module. It comes with a 20+4 pin PSU cable but I already have on my Rig my Corsair PSU cable that its alread sleaved and installed on the case (each cable individually through holes on an acrylic on the case) this one comes from MotherBoard to the Cooling After Module, my doubt its the Corsair Cable has a dual cable on a single pin that comes from the edge of the Motherboard side and on the other end it will enter on the hole that its empty on the original cooling after module, are there any problem using this cable ? Or I have to rip of this extra cord and crimp a single one making it equal to the one who comes with the BP Module?


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> A little Update...
> 
> Other Fan and some Decals


Very clean and nice.


----------



## sinnedone

HMMMMM!











http://www.pcper.com/news/Cases-and-Cooling/Aqua-Computer-Starts-Selling-Full-Cover-Water-Block-AMDs-R9-Nano-Graphics-C-0


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> A little Update...
> 
> Other Fan and some Decals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
























so clean!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Give it some time and usage.









Looks good though.









~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Give it some time and usage.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


bitter?


----------



## Dave6531

Upcoming build, for reference 20mm round next to it.


The front fans will be moved forward inbetween front panel and case. Many other mods to be done. First water cooling build so should be fun. Dont mind the cables currently build custom pipe desk. So setup is temp.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Upcoming build, for reference 20mm round next to it.
> 
> 
> The front fans will be moved forward inbetween front panel and case. Many other mods to be done. First water cooling build so should be fun. Dont mind the cables currently build custom pipe desk. So setup is temp.


Project time! I think the 20mm round is large enough to be a reservoir.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Project time! I think the 20mm round is large enough to be a reservoir.


Lol thought about it, have couple 25mm casings also from military time.


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1375962/bitspower-owners-gallery/310#post_24162977
> 
> You can make something similar using 90 degree female adaptors


Thanks Jakusonfire, for the link, yeah i think those are nice looking and fit in the plan _(Planning to shift to hard tubing ... but skills sucks in bending, so going for connectors with straight cuts)_

but where i can buy those ... checked PPCs nothing there .. also checked overclockers.uk ..... also no luck ...... may be could not match the naming ... since the bits power name their fitting in a way .... mmmmmmm ........ cant find the word .......









_PS: Just Getting ma feet wet with rigid loops_


----------



## Kranik

So this build isn't done, and these photos aren't great since I'm relegated to using my phone since my camera is in AZ whilst I find myself in northern NY, but I figured someone might appreciate it regardless. This is my D-Frame Mini build. It's powder coated glossy white. Which isn't quite as striking as yellow, so I think BNeg wins for best color choice and D-Frame Mini


----------



## SavellM

I have a question about tube res and horizontal fitting.

So I am currently running mine like so:


But I was debating about splitting the 2 pumps between the 2 res's.
Would I see any benefit from this?

Was thinking of maybe the XSPC Photon res with the pump tops.
And then have the liquid come in from the left, output from right into the 2nd res/pump.
Then out the right again and around back to the rad at the back.

Would this be slightly better?
Or am I wasting my time?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> I have a question about tube res and horizontal fitting.
> 
> So I am currently running mine like so:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I was debating about splitting the 2 pumps between the 2 res's.
> Would I see any benefit from this?
> 
> Was thinking of maybe the XSPC Photon res with the pump tops.
> And then have the liquid come in from the left, output from right into the 2nd res/pump.
> Then out the right again and around back to the rad at the back.
> 
> Would this be slightly better?
> Or am I wasting my time?


I thought that tube run from the left res to the gpu was awesome until I looked at your build log!







wow!


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> You use rigid fittings similar idea but u chamber the edges so you don't scar orings when u push them in and you also can use silicone lube to get them to go in easier I recommend the bitspower fittings


I slightly softened the ends with the heat gun and poked them in. Went really easily and no leaks.
When I pulled it apart later there was a very small indent where the o-ring had sat, giving a good seal.
The only worry was that I'd melt the o-rings but I think they have a higher melting point than acrylic.
It worked fine anyway and never had a leak.


----------



## Dave6531

Well mocked it up with short time i had. Two issues so far, 1 being the rear res is to wide so side panel wont seal and if i put rad against back first and do fan to inaide the holes wont line up which is a easy fix but problem two is the ilet on the top is quite high so might be better with two on bottom. Can easily fit a 280 rad on the front but with my shelf the 240 works ok. Also may do a shorter res tube. Just for reference the h5 universal fits with out problem but the rear rad sticks out just barely.


----------



## 97discosd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84* <a>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> </a>
> 
> A little Update...
> 
> Other Fan and some Decals


i love this build so much!!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> HMMMMM!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcper.com/news/Cases-and-Cooling/Aqua-Computer-Starts-Selling-Full-Cover-Water-Block-AMDs-R9-Nano-Graphics-C-0


I know right


----------



## Ceadderman

I think I just peed masef looking through that build log...

In fact...


















~Ceadder


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I thought that tube run from the left res to the gpu was awesome until I looked at your build log!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow!


Hehe thanks bud








It's been a labour of love.

I'm now changing pretty much all the internals for skylake and some nice beefy GPU's


----------



## MadHatter5045

With all the talk of stock thermal paste applications I thought I'd share this one (not my components)


----------



## Archea47

Not that my Sapphire's didn't have extra too, but BNEG's and your pic MadHatter are both ASUS


----------



## By-Tor

WOW that's a lot of gunk...


----------



## toggLesss

won't be long now...


Project Canyon rev.2 Build Log


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> won't be long now...
> 
> 
> Project Canyon rev.2 Build Log


Looks like Jayz's.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Things just got real.....


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Looks like Jayz's.


Jayz? as in Jayztwocents? as in skunkworks?

how so?


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> Jayz? as in Jayztwocents? as in skunkworks?
> 
> how so?


I mean similar. Same case, same radiator config and fans. Similar loop config. Anyway, looks good. Nice job.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Things just got real.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


CNC?


----------



## jlakai




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Things just got real.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CNC?
Click to expand...











Got a 1.5 kw spindle coming too......watercooled of course. Might have to ask EK if they fancy sponsoring a milling machine loop...........


----------



## catbuster

Congratz







cant wait to see the stuff u will make with it


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*


Wow, that looks different. What color of coolant are you going to use?


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> I mean similar. Same case, same radiator config and fans. Similar loop config. Anyway, looks good. Nice job.


i mean i took some inspiration from his skunkworks build, but thought maybe i could skim past fast enough before people said, "oh look, skunkworks in red" lol

yes, they are similar in ways... just less expensive.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> i mean i took some inspiration from his skunkworks build, but thought maybe i could skim past fast enough before people said, "oh look, skunkworks in red" lol
> 
> yes, they are similar in ways... just less expensive.


For me, water cooling is not about how expensive, is how different. Maybe my stander is setup too high, and I apologies for my picky-ness.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> For me, water cooling is not about how expensive, is how different. Maybe my stander is setup too high, and I apologies for my picky-ness.


gotta have high standards.

the good thing is that i can honestly say where i may have drawn inspiration from projects like skunkworks, division, serenity, and red rog, when it came down to building... it was just me and the components i had. and after a few different setup ideas, this last one made the cut because it did everything i wanted it to do in terms of visual aesthetics as well as performance.

that being said... no need for apologies.


----------



## gunslinger0077

My new build.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> gotta have high standards.
> 
> the good thing is that i can honestly say where i may have drawn inspiration from projects like skunkworks, division, serenity, and red rog, when it came down to building... it was just me and the components i had. and after a few different setup ideas, this last one made the cut because it did everything i wanted it to do in terms of visual aesthetics as well as performance.
> 
> that being said... no need for apologies.


That's the joy of owning an SMA8. Jays build was after most SMA8 builds, such as snef and a few others. Jays' was just more "popular" and more widely known because of his YouTube channel. I still think your build looks bada**. When I get more time, I'll definitely work on my hard tubing and clean up the bottom compartment.

And honestly, some of those builds are EXACT copies of others. Just different color themes.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Things just got real.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [spoiler/]


You dont need that. Ill pm you the correct address to send that to.


----------



## electro2u

Picked up a few new toys recently and decided to move my build from a corsair 760T to the more stately 750D (basically the same case with an extra fan mount on the floor and a slightly smaller window).


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> I mean similar. Same case, same radiator config and fans. Similar loop config. Anyway, looks good. Nice job.


was gonna say that too


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Wow, that looks different. What color of coolant are you going to use?




I haven't decided yet, I'm starting to gear more towards the middle two. What do you suggest?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Things just got real.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [spoiler/]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You dont need that. Ill pm you the correct address to send that to.
Click to expand...

Erm.....

No.










Wiring done.


----------



## Holpikka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't decided yet, I'm starting to gear more towards the middle two. What do you suggest?


Absolutely dark blue, that number 6:thumb:


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/p5nUKV5Sj

Got one of the Revo tops on a whim, I'll be using my Blue Bitspower 250 top with matching Black end caps though.


----------



## emsj86

So I added silver aurora 3 booster this morning. This is how it looked with pump at 100 percent. Literally can't see anything. Been running for 4 hours and nothing but a slight silver swirl once in a while. Any tips.


----------



## sinnedone

Slow down your pump to 50 percent or so and see how that looks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Basic loop layout is done,glass tube runs to be cut after EGX....although there is such a small amount of straight runs that i may just use the glass on another build.....


----------



## Willius

Looks very good!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Slow down your pump to 50 percent or so and see how that looks.


I always thought you need more flow rate. I can see some of it but almost as if the pastel hides it yet I've seen it really stand out in pastel. I'll try it out see what happens. But as of now can't see it at all in blocks or tubes and you wouldn't know it was in the res unless I said to look for it. I'll see what happens but kinda disappointed. Asked if would work and seems it does not


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I always thought you need more flow rate. I can see some of it but almost as if the pastel hides it yet I've seen it really stand out in pastel. I'll try it out see what happens. But as of now can't see it at all in blocks or tubes and you wouldn't know it was in the res unless I said to look for it. I'll see what happens but kinda disappointed. Asked if would work and seems it does not


You might need more of it then. If I remember correctly the booster is the one you add in correct? It's not like the aurora itself?


----------



## emsj86

Yup. It's like a little dye bottle says it's 10ml and to use 5ml max per 1 liter. I'm just under 2 liters for the loop and. I added the entire 10ml. What was odd is the bottle was clear unlike the product page but seemed in opened


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I haven't decided yet, I'm starting to gear more towards the middle two. What do you suggest?


I vote this one...


----------



## Archea47

I like #5!


----------



## BrjSan

Since the case is well bright/lightened, i would skip all the transparent ones









peace


----------



## VeritronX

Anyone here have any trouble with the bitspower tank Z multi res? I got the 250mm one and installed it as the manual showed with the orings in the ends, and it leaked on me just putting water in it. Tightening the bottom made it leak worse. Water is coming out of the join where the oring is.

It also didn't want to secure properly with it's mounting arms, they wouldn't clamp tight enough to stop it from slowly sliding downwards or being able to turn.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Anyone here have any trouble with the bitspower tank Z multi res? I got the 250mm one and installed it as the manual showed with the orings in the ends, and it leaked on me just putting water in it. Tightening the bottom made it leak worse. Water is coming out of the join where the oring is.
> 
> It also didn't want to secure properly with it's mounting arms, they wouldn't clamp tight enough to stop it from slowly sliding downwards or being able to turn.


I have seen in the past, although not in more recent years,, where the tube and cap threads seemed to have been cut with worn/dull tooling.

You may want to see whether the res assembles better with the end pieces on the opposite ends of the tube.

All the ones that I've had issues with were with colored tubes, where I've wanted to use clear ends.

I had a couple sets so bad that that I had to use a razor blade and triangle file to cut the threads on the caps a tiny fraction deeper, and an emery board to smooth the sharp peaks of the internal threads in the tubes.

You can tell if the threads are the problem because it will squeak/squeal, a lot, as you try to assemble the ends to the tube.

Try repeatedly assembling the res without the o rings in a sink of water so that you have a lot of lubrication, and repeatedly assembling until it binds and then un-assembling and reassembling again.

If it's not too bad, you may be able to wear off the high points in the threads and eventually be able to assemble it with the o rings so that it no longer leaks.

On the other hand, you could just RMA it, if that's easier for you.

Darlene

And yes, the mounting brackets suck.

I've only ever used the Bp brackets alone, to mount a tube horizontally.

For vertical mounting, I use a direct connection to the pump below the res like a male to male rotary, or add an additional support for the res to actually set on, like a small acrylic gusset.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have seen in the past, although not in more recent years,, where the tube and cap threads seemed to have been cut with worn/dull tooling.
> 
> You may want to see whether the res assembles better with the end pieces on the opposite ends of the tube.
> 
> All the ones that I've had issues with were with colored tubes, where I've wanted to use clear ends.
> 
> I had a couple sets so bad that that I had to use a razor blade and triangle file to cut the threads on the caps a tiny fraction deeper, and an emery board to smooth the sharp peaks of the internal threads in the tubes.
> 
> You can tell if the threads are the problem because it will squeak/squeal, a lot, as you try to assemble the ends to the tube.
> 
> Try repeatedly assembling the res without the o rings in a sink of water so that you have a lot of lubrication, and repeatedly assembling until it binds and then un-assembling and reassembling again.
> 
> If it's not too bad, you may be able to wear off the high points in the threads and eventually be able to assemble it with the o rings so that it no longer leaks.
> 
> On the other hand, you could just RMA it, if that's easier for you.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> And yes, the mounting brackets suck.
> 
> I've only ever used the Bp brackets alone, to mount a tube horizontally.
> 
> For vertical mounting, I use a direct connection to the pump below the res like a male to male rotary, or add an additional support for the res to actually set on, like a small acrylic gusset.


Thanks for that, I don't want to fix it manually and hope it doesn't leak, or rma it and hope it's replacement doesn't leak.. I'm not very impressed, I bought the bitspower thinking their quality control would be decent and I shouldn't have to worry about it.. I didn't even try to test it untill I had everything else ready for assembly and now it's the one thing stopping the build









I think I will just replace it with an XSPC Photon res, they come preassembled with the glass fixed in there from the factory so it should be leak free.

Edit: I went back and unscrewed the tube and top of the res from the bottom, then screwed it back on.. It went on smoothly, and even held water ok until I put the drain tube back into the case which put slight sideways pressure on the bottom of the res.. and the water started running out of the space where the oring is again. I'd attached the res to the bottom finger tight and then just a bit tighter, same as I do with my fittings with o-rings in them.. not sure why it leaks so darn easily.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Anyone here have any trouble with the bitspower tank Z multi res? I got the 250mm one and installed it as the manual showed with the orings in the ends, and it leaked on me just putting water in it. Tightening the bottom made it leak worse. Water is coming out of the join where the oring is.
> 
> It also didn't want to secure properly with it's mounting arms, they wouldn't clamp tight enough to stop it from slowly sliding downwards or being able to turn.


Dont try and secure it when it's in place. tighten the rings and slide them over the res when it feels like its just a bit tight, it wont ever move then.

Make sure there are no little bits on the res so it wont scratch down.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Basic loop layout is done,glass tube runs to be cut after EGX....although there is such a small amount of straight runs that i may just use the glass on another build.....


Your build is amazing! Neat, clean and very wow!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Picked up a few new toys recently and decided to move my build from a corsair 760T to the more stately 750D (basically the same case with an extra fan mount on the floor and a slightly smaller window).


Nice work!


----------



## Juthos

Plumbing done, now sleeving and cable management


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Plumbing done, now sleeving and cable management


The creations people come up with, never cease to amaze me!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't decided yet, I'm starting to gear more towards the middle two. What do you suggest?




Pick me!


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Basic loop layout is done,glass tube runs to be cut after EGX....although there is such a small amount of straight runs that i may just use the glass on another build.....


B, I was just wondering how you polish you copper pipe? I have been trying with sand paper and then clear coat, but the results aren't satisfactory.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Basic loop layout is done,glass tube runs to be cut after EGX....although there is such a small amount of straight runs that i may just use the glass on another build.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B, I was just wondering how you polish you copper pipe? I have been trying with sand paper and then clear coat, but the results aren't satisfactory.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure I can speak for B, but since I do a fair amount of metal work, my favorite way to polish both acrylic and metal, both tubing and flats, is a bench mounted power buffer similar to this one:



Different wheels and rouges are required depending on what you want to polish, and the option to have a wheel on both sides is handy if you have 2 different mediums that you polish frequently.

Soft materials like acrylic or aluminum and copper are easier and quicker, while stainless steel takes much longer and more physical effort.

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Plumbing done, now sleeving and cable management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome!









Where's your build log?

OH, how about a nice motherboard IO cover plate...


----------



## Ceadderman

I like NvrDull or Brasso. Takes a lot of time but won't thin the material I'm working with. Want faster results? Use a green scotch pad while the Polish is still wet.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Basic loop layout is done,glass tube runs to be cut after EGX....although there is such a small amount of straight runs that i may just use the glass on another build.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B, I was just wondering how you polish you copper pipe? I have been trying with sand paper and then clear coat, but the results aren't satisfactory.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm not sure I can speak for B, but since I do a fair amount of metal work, my favorite way to polish both acrylic and metal, both tubing and flats, is a bench mounted power buffer similar to this one:
> 
> 
> 
> Different wheels and rouges are required depending on what you want to polish, and the option to have a wheel on both sides is handy if you have 2 different mediums that you polish frequently.
> 
> Soft materials like acrylic or aluminum and copper are easier and quicker, while stainless steel takes much longer and more physical effort.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

The Girl knows the score.

If its flat panels then i go with a DA sander,1200-2000-3000 grit disks the hit it with the bench polisher. Autosol to finish.

In other news,the loop is in and polished. Ready for a leaktest!


----------



## Methodical

I need help. I am trying to figure out how to incorporate a drain plug into my loop. I have the HAF 932 and will install the XSPC RX360 radiator at the top and either the RX120 or EX120 radiator at the exhaust - all will be push only. Below is my laundry list of parts. The reservoir and pump will be install in the drive bay. *Flow = reservoir-360 radiator-cpu-120 radiator-gpu-reservoir*. Feel free to make any suggestions. I am open to them as this is my 1st water cooling project. Which drain plug should I use.

Watercool Parts list:
CPU block: Swiftech Apogee XL (pulled from 220x kit)
GPU block: Swiftech Titan X/980 Ti Komodo GPU water block and back plate (purchased)
Pump/reservoir: Swiftech Maelstrom V2 5-1/4 Dual Bay Reservoir/pump (purchased)
Radiator: XSPC RX360 radiator v3 (thinking of adding a 120 or 140mm radiator at rear fan)
Fans: Vardar F3 (1850 rpm) 120mm (pwm)
Rigid Tubing: PrimoChill Rigid PETG Tubing (3/8 ID, 1/2 OD)
Rigid Tubing connectors: PrimoChill Rigid Revolver Compression Fitting 3/8" x 1/2" Diamond Knurled
Fluids: Mayhem (Black pastel)
Tube bending accessories

Thanks for any help...Al


----------



## huhh

I got a Bitspower on/off attached to a t-block at the bottom rad in my 900d, pretty much drains my whole system with minor tipping . Use some barbs to get the hose at floor level and attach when you need to drain. T's with an on off using flex tubing is pretty much the easiest and most effective way to drain.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huhh*
> 
> I got a Bitspower on/off attached to a t-block at the bottom rad in my 900d, pretty much drains my whole system with minor tipping . Use some barbs to get the hose at floor level and attach when you need to drain. T's with an on off using flex tubing is pretty much the easiest and most effective way to drain.


Thanks. I found the Bitspower ball valve. I also found the Koolance 4 way drain block that I think I can use. I will see about running the tube from the gpu to the 4 way block with the ball valve at the bottom.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> The creations people come up with, never cease to amaze me!


Thanks







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where's your build log?
> 
> OH, how about a nice motherboard IO cover plate...


Thank you. Lately i'm too lazy to make and follow a proper build log sorry, also (even on ocn:doh a lot of questions about money spent not wisely.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Lately i'm too lazy to make and follow a proper build log sorry, also (even on ocn:doh a lot of questions about money spent not wisely.


Well, the second you start with custom loops you're basically "not spending money wisely". Its a hobby, its supposed to be fun and bring satisfaction, the money you spend is somewhat irrelevant imo. Either way, your build looks amazing.


----------



## fast_fate

Polished gear looks great B









Had delivery today of some new fans today, radial filter anyone


----------



## Malik




----------



## sinnedone

Looks real good Malik, but wher's the screen.... Lol









Was there a build log for this? If so i really missed out.


----------



## Pimphare

@Malik great idea using the tv/monitor bottom stand. Looks awesome!


----------



## kizwan

@Malik that looks great. Well I have a broken monitor here.


----------



## By-Tor

@malik That looks so good and a great idea!


----------



## Questors

Yep! Once again, I am amazed! That is neater than socks on a chicken dadgummit!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Polished gear looks great B
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had delivery today of some new fans today, radial filter anyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That for testing or changing up your own gear?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That for testing or changing up your own gear?


Got 8 of them to go into the thermal chamber for 140.x rads:thumb:


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Got 8 of them to go into the thermal chamber for 140.x rads:thumb:
> 
> ]


They look so much better these days don't they. I never would have considered the old ones but these are actually a little tempting.

Does the IP certification stuff change the fans externally or weight wise do you know? Or is it all just internal to the motor?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Got 8 of them to go into the thermal chamber for 140.x rads:thumb:


OH! 140mm Rads! Having recently RMAed my XEs







I am in the hunt for replacements. Initially 140mm rads were on the list, but having little to no information to go on, they have been dismissed. Depending on how long it will be until you publish test results, they may be back in the pool.


----------



## erso44

who wants to water cool that nasty board...omg










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/images/product/server-board-s4600lh-s4600lt-back-view-lg.jpg


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They look so much better these days don't they. I never would have considered the old ones...


I was just thinking the same thing. The old color scheme was nasty looking in my opinion no matter how good they were. That's what kept me away from them. These are waaay better looking.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They look so much better these days don't they. I never would have considered the old ones but these are actually a little tempting.
> 
> Does the IP certification stuff change the fans externally or weight wise do you know? Or is it all just internal to the motor?


Sorry, don't have another model to compare against.
For those interested this is the IP Certification criteria, so thsee Noctua's having IP67 is pretty darn awesome


----------



## electro2u

Who does the testing? Noctua or an independent laboratory?


----------



## VSG

Independent testing for IP ratings.

The Noctua IPPC fans use a fiber glass impeller to allow for the higher MTBF and IP rating.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How did you manage to keep the hubs still while the fans are Ramped up?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Independent testing for IP ratings.
> 
> The Noctua IPPC fans use a fiberglass impeller to allow for the higher MTBF and IP rating.


Well now that would explain why they're so bleedin expensive.









Looks.like I gotta sell my seat for PDXLan. A thousand in the hole and not a bit of it went into my build. Don't mind cause it was primarily for baby expenses and a safe vehicle to drive. But it's a tad irritating that I won't make my deadline.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Ah that sucks man, but that does mean more time to finish everything for the next PDXLan


----------



## sinnedone

I'm almost done with my current build after dragging my feet for over a year. lol

I think the lower compartment needs something like a graphic or something.... ideas?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I'm almost done with my current build after dragging my feet for over a year. lol
> 
> I think the lower compartment needs something like a graphic or something.... ideas?


Cut a hole in it in the shape of whatever tubs your engine and install a thin piece of white acrylic and back light it.









Now that I will have more time I plan to do something similar with the replacement window from my old door. It's custom laser etched so repurposing it seems to be the way to go.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah that sucks man, but that does mean more time to finish everything for the next PDXLan


Indeed. Sucks but it's probably for the best.









~Ceadder


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I'm almost done with my current build after dragging my feet for over a year. lol
> 
> I think the lower compartment needs something like a graphic or something.... ideas?


very nice!! Looks like all the heavy hitters finishing up their projects in the weeks to come. I think it looks great as it is.. you could top it off with a 2way mirror or translucent dark grey acrylic for a door and that would compliment it perfect, keeping the stealthy bling look intact.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Cut a hole in it in the shape of whatever tubs your engine and install a thin piece of white acrylic and back light it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I will have more time I plan to do something similar with the replacement window from my old door. It's custom laser etched so repurposing it seems to be the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed. Sucks but it's probably for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's definitely an idea I can get behind. Need to figure out what exactly would tub my engine though. lol.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> very nice!! Looks like all the heavy hitters finishing up their projects in the weeks to come. I think it looks great as it is.. you could top it off with a 2way mirror or translucent dark grey acrylic for a door and that would compliment it perfect, keeping the stealthy bling look intact.


I actually was thinking of the tinted window idea before, but there really inst anything special looking down there. Maybe some stainless plates polished with something written or emblem..... hmmm


----------



## Ceadderman

My smartphone's ******ed idea of *turns.









I need to get round free WiFi to update it.









~Ceadder


----------



## snef

a new build , Anti-Venom

waiting for WF3 water block


----------



## toggLesss




----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> who wants to water cool that nasty board...omg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/images/product/server-board-s4600lh-s4600lt-back-view-lg.jpg


My, god its glorious!
Cooling a rig like that would be sooo expensive, especially if you included RAM blocks...
But done right, it could look stunning.
(would also need to get my hands on 4 narrow 2011-3 brackets)

1.5TB of RAM, 72 cores and 144 threads...
Would make for an amazing render/ compute/ folding rig.


----------



## emsj86

Looks really good toggless


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work for sure.


----------



## Questors

As always, Aurora dye looks great! Glass tube? In the res or system tubing? Or both?


----------



## Mayhem

The tubing is all glass


----------



## Ceadderman

I could get behind glass tubing but my OCD only sees bad things ahead if I were to try that.









Maybe a bid showing bending and durability is in order here.









~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I could get behind glass tubing but my OCD only sees bad things ahead if I were to try that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a bid showing bending and durability is in order here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I've done glass bending for neon lights. It's hella hard. You have to heat the tube with forced air gas flame. Plug one end with a cork, hook a tube with a mouthpiece up to the other end and apply just enough pressure to try to keep the bend from collapsing - but not too much or you'll blow it out in a bubble. 90° bends wouldn't be too bad, after some practice, and maybe Mayhems has an automated method, but I've done enough to know that paying somebody is the best bet on this stuff


----------



## flybye555

This is my current rig although it more then likely will change!
some specss
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
[email protected] 1.32v
32gig of gskill sniper 1600
dual rad, triple rad, 12 Cougar Vortex fans120MM 119.8CFM
Video Asus R9290X-DC2OC-4GD5
xspc full cover block
3x 27 inch asus monitors
evga 1300 psu
2 x d5 pumps in serial
fan controller
mountain mod case
3ssd drives, 6hds

IMG_0138.JPG 2597k .JPG file


IMG_0141.JPG 2438k .JPG file


IMG_0142.JPG 2419k .JPG file


IMG_0144.JPG 2337k .JPG file


IMG_0139.JPG 2968k .JPG file


----------



## Ceadderman

Would be better if you used [Image] tags mate.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I could get behind glass tubing but my OCD only sees bad things ahead if I were to try that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a bid showing bending and durability is in order here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've done glass bending for neon lights. It's hella hard. You have to heat the tube with forced air gas flame. Plug one end with a cork, hook a tube with a mouthpiece up to the other end and apply just enough pressure to try to keep the bend from collapsing - but not too much or you'll blow it out in a bubble. 90° bends wouldn't be too bad, after some practice, and maybe Mayhems has an automated method, but I've done enough to know that paying somebody is the best bet on this stuff
Click to expand...

Its all hand blown,


----------



## Ceadderman

So you have 90° tubing too?









~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its all hand blown,


Kudos!


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So you have 90° tubing too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


According to their how to cut glass video, they do plan on having pre-bent glass tubes.


----------



## emsj86

There glass tubes our more durable than petg. They have a video of it being smashed with a hammer and nothing happening. No cracks, no smushed tube like petg. Looks amazing


----------



## Mayhem

The video we did was a micky take because hitting any tube like a hammer-wielding god isn't a good idea and not true representation of any thing.. Its akin to boiling away coolant and calling it a test to see whats left over ;/. The power of YT












its ment as a joke


----------



## Deez

So, its nothing too special compared to what some of you guys can do, but I finished up my 6700k this past weekend and I'm pretty pleased with it so far. The rest of my pics are in my sig.


----------



## huhh




----------



## Coolzo

Here it is! CPU-only loop, at least for now, as I am satisfied with the quiet performance of the Strix (and I don't plan on overclocking it further). Trying to go for a balance of performance and relative silence; will add some shrouds for the push fans later, but I'm not worrying too much about it until the 140mm all-black (or all-white) Vardars come back (in which case I would replace all the fans anyway). Oh, and I realize there is quite a good bit of bubbles in my res... it's been slow-going, but they are indeed being removed. They're mighty stubborn, although there does not seem to be any bubbles left in the actual loop. In the mean time... Perrier! Anyway, without further ado (quite proud of this, as it is my all-time first WC build, and it came out looking pretty gorgeous. went a bit photo crazy, sorry about that):











Specs-
CPU: Intel i7 5820k (stock, just for now)
GPU: Asus Strix GTX970 (decided to add a second, saving up)
RAM: 32GB Kingston HyperX Fury 2666 DDR4
Mobo: MSI X99 SLI Krait Edition
PSU: Fractal Design Newton R3 800w
Case: NZXT H630 (white)
Fans: Phanteks F140SP (x5)
Rads: HWL Nemesis L-series 280 (x2), HWL Black Ice Nemesis GTS140 (white)
PumpRes: XSPC DDC Photon 270 w/ blue LED
CPU block: Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 LC
Tubing: EK ZMT w/ EK compression fittings (white)
OS Drive: Samsung 850 Evo 120 (will be replacing with a Pro 256 shortly because of space issues)
Programs: Dual 500GB Toshiba SSHDs in RAID 0 (2.5" form factor)
Storage: 1TB Seagate Barracuda
Coolant is Mayhems X1. White LEDs are Logysis, plus a blue Kingwin cold cathode mounted behind the top rad. Fan grills are white 140mm ModMyToys,.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, what is the best way to color the distilled water in my loop?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, what is the best way to color the distilled water in my loop?


Automotive antifreeze: its cheap, not harmfull (to your loop) and comes in blue, green, yellow & red (pink)

.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Automotive antifreeze: its cheap, not harmfull (to your loop) and comes in blue, green, yellow & red (pink)
> 
> .


sure?


----------



## Georgey123

Is there a date at all for the Hardware Labs SR2 multiports to go on sale, feels like the have been teased for ages?


----------



## fast_fate

The SR2 240 MP review was published 2 weeks ago based on the middle of this month being the retail release date.
I'll see if I can find out what the revise date now is


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The SR2 240 MP review was published 2 weeks ago based on the middle of this month being the retail release date.
> I'll see if I can find out what the revise date now is


Even the 360 was reviewed back in May, thanks fast_fate







.


----------



## fisher6

Does anyone know which of these 3 or 5mm leds ones are better and more bright: the EK 3mm ones or the bitspower 5mm ones. I want to use them in my evo cpu block. Does it even support 5mm leds? Thanks.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Does anyone know which of these 3 or 5mm leds ones are better and more bright: the EK 3mm ones or the bitspower 5mm ones. I want to use them in my evo cpu block. Does it even support 5mm leds? Thanks.


No sure out of the two (EK, Bitspower) would be brightest. I know that many users on here love how bright the Darkside 3mm LED's are. The also come in a range of colours.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-3mm-darkside-connect-modular-led-white.html


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> No sure out of the two (EK, Bitspower) would be brightest. I know that many users on here love how bright the Darkside 3mm LED's are. The also come in a range of colours.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-3mm-darkside-connect-modular-led-white.html


That would be my first choice. I already have two 30 cm UV led strips from Darkside that I use to light up my advanced LRT UV Blue tubing and they are amazing. I ordered from mayhems.co.uk store as they only charge 4 pounds for shipping to Norway. Last time I checked, they didn't have the 3mm version. PPC wants like 36 dollars shipping for 7$ worth of leds if I recall.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The video we did was a micky take *because hitting any tube like a hammer-wielding god isn't a good idea and not true representation of any thing.. Its akin to boiling away coolant and calling it a test to see whats left over* ;/. The power of YT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its ment as a joke


Exactly this.

That test is a mockery.


----------



## snef

GO HABS GO! Charity Update

start modding ram and CPU block to the theme


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, what is the best way to color the distilled water in my loop?


The Mayhem's brand dyes are highly recommended.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> GO HABS GO! Charity Update
> 
> start modding ram and CPU block to the theme


Not a Habs fan, but love it!!!

GO WINGS!!!


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> The Mayhem's brand dyes are highly recommended.


Yep! They also have a line of stain-free dyes.

I'm using their Pastel White concentrate and I love the way it looks.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> GO HABS GO! Charity Update
> 
> start modding ram and CPU block to the theme


Nice!

Did you make that metal cover and tap the cpu block yourself?


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> GO HABS GO! Charity Update
> 
> start modding ram and CPU block to the theme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Winning Team!!










Got to love being a Montrealer.







Very good work there Sir.


----------



## Archea47

Best part snef is the AMD mount


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> Did you make that metal cover and tap the cpu block yourself?


nope just paint and sticker

its a Supremacy LX block aleady have a metal cover


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> nope just paint and sticker
> 
> its a Supremacy LX block aleady have a metal cover
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah ok Thank you. Are the new screws anodized or did you paint those as well? Are you making this one for yourself?


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> My, god its glorious!
> Cooling a rig like that would be sooo expensive, especially if you included RAM blocks...
> But done right, it could look stunning.
> (would also need to get my hands on 4 narrow 2011-3 brackets)
> 
> 1.5TB of RAM, 72 cores and 144 threads...
> Would make for an amazing render/ compute/ folding rig.


If I spend my money on that I would sleep under a bridge the next day haha


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> who wants to water cool that nasty board...omg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/images/product/server-board-s4600lh-s4600lt-back-view-lg.jpg


Looks like it time to go ask my boss for the funds to create a super water cooled server. Dont worry boss it will run everything One machine to rule the domain.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Ah ok Thank you. Are the new screws anodized or did you paint those as well? Are you making this one for yourself?


i changed all black screw for anodized red
i make this for a disabled children, he are one of best fan of this team


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> GO HABS GO! Charity Update
> 
> start modding ram and CPU block to the theme


Not a fan. But Kudos. What printer do you use for such fine production labels.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, what is the best way to color the distilled water in my loop?
> 
> 
> 
> The Mayhem's brand dyes are highly recommended.
Click to expand...

I'm Distilled only til I die. I'd rather go with colored tubing and lights to get me some color in my loop.

That being said, if someone truly wishes to pigment their coolant I will suggest Mayhems/EK coolants.

For me it's a no go because pigments tend to fade over time and leave residue behind. Not all coolants do(Hence Mayhems/EK suggestion) but I'd rather not have any worries other than the usual concerns draining my loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Is there a date at all for the Hardware Labs SR2 multiports to go on sale, feels like the have been teased for ages?





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The SR2 240 MP review was published 2 weeks ago based on the middle of this month being the retail release date.
> I'll see if I can find out what the revise date now is


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Even the 360 was reviewed back in May, thanks fast_fate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .






OK, so the info I got back is that the SR2 MP rads are already shipping to PPC and WCUK with other selected EU retailers to commence next week.
It's nothing concrete, but it's more than what we had before


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> OK, so the info I got back is that the SR2 MP rads are already shipping to PPC and WCUK with other selected EU retailers to commence next week.
> It's nothing concrete, but it's more than what we had before


Awesome news, hopefully everything goes to plan







. Thanks fast_fate and +Rep.


----------



## kl6mk6

Singularity just dropped a new build log. So happy he's back doing videos. Check it out.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i changed all black screw for anodized red
> i make this for a disabled children, he are one of best fan of this team


Good on you, it looks great!


----------



## toggLesss

Part 4 - The Finale of the Project Canyon rev.2 Build Extravaganza


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Some shockingly bad pics of IDORU at EGX,all I had was a potato! Not to worry,I saw plenty of pics being taken in the short time I was there so there are bound to be more......


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> who wants to water cool that nasty board...omg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/images/product/server-board-s4600lh-s4600lt-back-view-lg.jpg


I would put that under a dual parallel loop in a scratch build casing maybe even wall mount it. Wow that is a very sexy setup.


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Some shockingly bad pics of IDORU at EGX,all I had was a potato! Not to worry,I saw plenty of pics being taken in the short time I was there so there are bound to be more......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All that shiny copper looks gorgeous!! Can't wait for the DSLR pics!


----------



## snef




----------



## DoktorTerror

final pics for my project












for more pics:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1509085/sponsored-new-line-orange-update-pag-5-final-pics/80_20#post_24439254


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Starting to look really good. Can't wait to see what you'll do with the case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> final pics for my project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for more pics:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1509085/sponsored-new-line-orange-update-pag-5-final-pics/80_20#post_24439254


Really well done.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> final pics for my project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for more pics:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1509085/sponsored-new-line-orange-update-pag-5-final-pics/80_20#post_24439254


That is exceptional. I'd love to do an orange build some day. Matching the mobo is great









Really digging the hard line runs as well.


----------



## alltheGHz

Hi guys, more no0b questions.
I have a CPU block (copper, I think?) and a radiator (also copper, not sure though). What would happen if I had a mixed metal loop and had an anti corrosive in it? What would be the best method of preventing corrosion in the block/rad? Would I have to worry abou the metals in my koolance quick disconnect fittings or the metal in the pump?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@alltheGHz - You'll be fine unless you add aluminium into the loop which you aren't very likely to find anyway.

What color are your QDCs though? I've had Koolance black QDCs and they started flaking after a few months, and I think few more people on this forum reported the same issue.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> final pics for my project


hella clean bro!
nice runs.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great Snef - btw what motherboard is that?


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Looks great Snef - btw what motherboard is that?


Looks like this one:

GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XN-WIFI FM2+

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4745#ov


----------



## snef

@Archea47

thanks
yes . @catbuster is right

GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XN-WIFI FM2+

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4745#ov


----------



## Methodical

Question. I have the XSPC RX360 V3 radiator. It has no in/out markings, so I assume that it doesn't matter which I use as in/out - correct?

Thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Question. I have the XSPC RX360 V3 radiator. It has no in/out markings, so I assume that it doesn't matter which I use as in/out - correct?
> 
> Thanks


Correct


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Correct - it does not matter.


----------



## Kry0g3nic

Hey everybody, just wanted to see if I could get added to the list and join the cool kids club







I've got another project in the works that I'll share here really soon but until then this is my latest creation and hopefully "club" worthy













Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Archea47

Awesome Rig, Kry0g3nic - I think you've certainly arrived!









BTW nice S8


----------



## Kry0g3nic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Awesome Rig, Kry0g3nic - I think you've certainly arrived!


Thanks for the acceptance! Its an honor to be among some of the finest system builders there are (present company excluded of course







) You guys rock and I hope to learn a few things. Heck, maybe teach a few things too who knows









Quote:


> BTW nice S8


Thanks again. I'm glad some like it as much as I do. I'm kinda partial to Caselabs


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by Georgey123 View Post
> 
> Is there a date at all for the Hardware Labs SR2 multiports to go on sale, feels like the have been teased for ages?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> OK, so the info I got back is that the SR2 MP rads are already shipping to PPC and WCUK with other selected EU retailers to commence next week.
> It's nothing concrete, but it's more than what we had before


On 9/24/2015 11:50 AM, Questors wrote:
Hello,
As advised by Customer Service on 9-15-2015, I am checking back with PPCS regarding pricing and availability of Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 MP (new version) 360 & 480 radiators?

On 9/24/2015 12:28 PM, Customer Service wrote:
> Hi we should get these middle next week. Same prices as the old ones (except not on sale)
>
> Thanks and please check back.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Customer Service
>


----------



## bluedevil

Quick setup question.

1. Radbox with 2 240s
2. 420 hung from desk

Which would you go with and why?


----------



## soulreaper05

Radbox.

1. radbox is easier to move if you ever need to.
2. I very much dislike the looks of externally mounted radiators.
3. It would be much more unlikely to accidentally knock off a hose or whatnot and make a huge mess.
4. Easier to wire up fans and such to the main rig, or put in a tiny psu just for fans.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Just finished my new build now. What do you guys think of it?

http://imgur.com/a/GdQeq



Currently thinking of turning the LEDs down and making them whiter like my old build was. That blue feels too deep for me.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Quick setup question.
> 
> 1. Radbox with 2 240s
> 2. 420 hung from desk
> 
> Which would you go with and why?


A radbox (generic) is much neater approach and can be filtered to keep dust out or to a minimum. They tend to look pretty good and are very "mod-able" ,especially if the radbox is custom made itself. I find CaseLabs pedestals make excellent rad boxes. They have many accessories to adapt them to you needs without modding, but are still mod friendly if one decides to go that route.

Openly mounted radiators are subject to become dust caked, damaged by pets, kids, vacuum cleaner hoses swinging about, cable repair techs responding to a service call, whatever else...


----------



## soulreaper05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Just finished my new build now. What do you guys think of it?
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/GdQeq
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently thinking of turning the LEDs down and making them whiter like my old build was. That blue feels too deep for me.


Very Clean! I like the coolant color. Kind of like liquid oxygen color.

Might want to plug in those GPUs though...


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Just finished my new build now. What do you guys think of it?
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/GdQeq
> 
> Currently thinking of turning the LEDs down and making them whiter like my old build was. That blue feels too deep for me.


I don't know, with all the blue accents in your case, I kind of like the blue LEDs. At any rate, that's a nice, clean build


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> A radbox (generic) is much neater approach and can be filtered to keep dust out or to a minimum. They tend to look pretty good and are very "mod-able" ,especially if the radbox is custom made itself. I find CaseLabs pedestals make excellent rad boxes. They have many accessories to adapt them to you needs without modding, but are still mod friendly if one decides to go that route.
> 
> Openly mounted radiators are subject to become dust caked, damaged by pets, kids, vacuum cleaner hoses swinging about, cable repair techs responding to a service call, whatever else...


pretty much on par with what we was thinking. Gonna put it in a modded CM 120 Elite.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> A radbox (generic) is much neater approach and can be filtered to keep dust out or to a minimum. They tend to look pretty good and are very "mod-able" ,especially if the radbox is custom made itself. I find CaseLabs pedestals make excellent rad boxes. They have many accessories to adapt them to you needs without modding, but are still mod friendly if one decides to go that route.
> 
> Openly mounted radiators are subject to become dust caked, damaged by pets, kids, vacuum cleaner hoses swinging about, cable repair techs responding to a service call, whatever else...
> 
> 
> 
> pretty much on par with what we was thinking. Gonna put it in a modded CM 120 Elite.
Click to expand...

Have you considered buying a case better suited to your needs rather than the less than ideal rad box?

The lack of mobility will irritate after a while....


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have you considered buying a case better suited to your needs rather than the less than ideal rad box?
> 
> The lack of mobility will irritate after a while....


the thought did cross my mind .... Maybe a caselabs?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Quick setup question.
> 
> 1. Radbox with 2 240s
> 2. 420 hung from desk
> 
> Which would you go with and why?


I think ease of use wise a radbox would be best.(with disconnects of course)

Aesthetically speaking (if that's even an issue) the radbox would also be a better option as I have seen plenty of external radboxes made to look like an actual centerpiece part of the build.

Last of course is price. Mounting a radiator under a desk will be the cheapest option and if it's out of sight it's out of mind right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> the thought did cross my mind .... Maybe a caselabs?


Again aesthetics vs ease of use. Which is more important for you?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have you considered buying a case better suited to your needs rather than the less than ideal rad box?
> 
> The lack of mobility will irritate after a while....
> 
> 
> 
> the thought did cross my mind .... Maybe a caselabs?
Click to expand...

What do you look for in a case,aesthetics? design? practicality?

Im a big In Win fan myself with a side order of Caselabs.


----------



## Jflisk

Anyone have any thoughts on a D5 not showing RPM signal. Does it like once a day for the past 2 days reading from my CPU header on my MB thru AIDA64 . The machine is set to shut down on no RPM from the header but is not. Maybe erroneous reading from AIDA from the motherboard.Only occurred once in the logs per day. Thanks in advance


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What do you look for in a case,aesthetics? design? practicality?
> 
> Im a big In Win fan myself with a *side order of Caselabs*.












TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What do you look for in a case,aesthetics? design? practicality?
> 
> Im a big In Win fan myself with a side order of Caselabs.


Same here with the first one, second not so much.


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm having an issue with one of my PWM D5's. I have an XSPC version and Swiftech version. I didn't think I had a problem because they were both plugged in via y splitter to my Corsair link commander mini. But now that I have them separate, the XSPC pump only goes to a max of 3500 RPM. What's the issue here?

Edit. I tried reinserting the wire (PWM wires), and now I'm not getting any RPM signal at all, I thought maybe it was just a bad placement. This XSPC has been nothing but problems because I haven't even seen it ramp up to 4700, nor have I heard it that loud.

I emailed PPCS to see if maybe they can swap it out for the Swiftech version

EDIT* turns out the pump was never working. removed the molex, and replugged it back into the PSU. NOTHING. SO this whole time, it was just the swiftech pump that was running. No wonder the flow seemed bad with my huge loop.


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Really well done.


thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> That is exceptional. I'd love to do an orange build some day. Matching the mobo is great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really digging the hard line runs as well.


many thanks








orange is a nice color and this MB is perfect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> hella clean bro!
> nice runs.


----------



## funfordcobra

Guys what usp supplys are you using with these big builds? I've tried 3 different 1500va 900w and I shut them down. Stock bios and mild overclock. Any suggestions from personal experience?


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Guys what usp supplys are you using with these big builds? I've tried 3 different 1500va 900w and I shut them down. Stock bios and mild overclock. Any suggestions from personal experience?


evga g2 1000/1300w


----------



## kizwan

I'm pretty sure he is asking about UPS, not PSU.


----------



## Dave6531

Alright guys working on my first water cooling loop with hardline. What size tubing do you all suggest and with using bitspower fittings what petg brand do you suggest? I should mention that I'm planning on sleeving the tubing looking for something that looks like stainless steel braided lines..


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What do you look for in a case,aesthetics? design? practicality?
> 
> Im a big In Win fan myself with a side order of Caselabs.


In a nutshell, If I was to buy a case right now. It would be the CM MasterCase Pro 5
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119306

This picture pretty much sums it up.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Correct


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Correct - it does not matter.


Thanks. After a bunch of trial and error and a whole lot of cursing, I just finished cutting the last hard tube fitting and testing for leaks - so far so good. I see the reservoir motor is sensitive to air pockets.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Alright guys working on my first water cooling loop with hardline. What size tubing do you all suggest and with using bitspower fittings what petg brand do you suggest? I should mention that I'm planning on sleeving the tubing looking for something that looks like stainless steel braided lines..


No PETG. GO Acrylic.

12mm Fittings Bitspower.

Ask @lowfat how he sleeved his tubing for the Lian Li case.

TCO


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No PETG. GO Acrylic.
> 
> 12mm Fittings Bitspower.
> 
> Ask @lowfat how he sleeved his tubing for the Lian Li case.
> 
> TCO


why no petg I thought it was better than acrylic? so 12mm OD I'll have to see what there is.

I seen it found that after I thought of doing it before glad Its not a hard as I thought it might be.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Alright guys working on my first water cooling loop with hardline. What size tubing do you all suggest and with using bitspower fittings what petg brand do you suggest? I should mention that I'm planning on sleeving the tubing looking for something that looks like stainless steel braided lines..


Unless you have experience with a particular brand of tubing with regard to another brand of fittings, it is best to stay brand to brand for compatibility. There are other brands of rigid tube that will work with Bitspower fittings. I have used E22 brand acrylic with the same advertised dimensions, but the E22 was difficult to properly fit, as if it were a slightly larger diameter than specified. Someone else may weigh in with their experience(s) and offer other viewpoint(s).
Bitspower also offers PETG - (for some reason Bitspower page won't open properly - so this)







:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/rigid-hard-tubing/bitspower-none-chamfer-petg-12mm-od-tube-length-500mm.html

As you intend to use braiding over the tube, the OD of the tubing will depend on the the size of the braiding material. If 3/4" or 5/8" OD is too large and gawdy to you when braided, then you may want to use 1/2" OD or other. Then find a brand of tubing to match the look you want.

Here is an alternative for you ponder:
https://modmymods.com/tubing/hard-tubing.html
If I hadn't already bought all the tubing for my current project, I would be all over this stuff. If my boss (the wife) gives me more allowance money, maybe I can swing it! :









If you are not familiar with ModMyMods, they are a legitimate business opened by some of the EX-employees of FrozenCPU, but have nothing to do with them. They are a good group of people.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Unless you have experience with a particular brand of tubing with regard to another brand of fittings, it is best to stay brand to brand for compatibility. There are other brands of rigid tube that will work with Bitspower fittings. I have used E22 brand acrylic with the same advertised dimensions, but the E22 was difficult to properly fit, as if it were a slightly larger diameter than specified. Someone else may weigh in with their experience(s) and offer other viewpoint(s).
> Bitspower also offers PETG - (for some reason Bitspower page won't open properly - so this)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/rigid-hard-tubing/bitspower-none-chamfer-petg-12mm-od-tube-length-500mm.html
> 
> As you intend to use braiding over the tube, the OD of the tubing will depend on the the size of the braiding material. If 3/4" or 5/8" OD is too large and gawdy to you when braided, then you may want to use 1/2" OD or other. Then find a brand of tubing to match the look you want.
> 
> Here is an alternative for you ponder:
> https://modmymods.com/tubing/hard-tubing.html
> If I hadn't already bought all the tubing for my current project, I would be all over this stuff. If my boss (the wife) gives me more allowance money, maybe I can swing it! :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are not familiar with ModMyMods, they are a legitimate business opened by some of the EX-employees of FrozenCPU, but have nothing to do with them. They are a good group of people.


Thanks for the info I am familiar with modmymods glad they split and started their own. I'll pry stick to 1/2" od for fact that my case is a smaller case so larger might look gaudy. That brass chrome is sweet would almost fit with my build.

No just wondering why Cautious said dont use PETG


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Alright guys working on my first water cooling loop with hardline. What size tubing do you all suggest and with using bitspower fittings what petg brand do you suggest? I should mention that I'm planning on sleeving the tubing looking for something that looks like stainless steel braided lines..
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you have experience with a particular brand of tubing with regard to another brand of fittings, it is best to stay brand to brand for compatibility. There are other brands of rigid tube that will work with Bitspower fittings. I have used E22 brand acrylic with the same advertised dimensions, but the *E22 was difficult to properly fit, as if it were a slightly larger diameter than specified.* Someone else may weigh in with their experience(s) and offer other viewpoint(s).
> Bitspower also offers PETG - (for some reason Bitspower page won't open properly - so this)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/rigid-hard-tubing/bitspower-none-chamfer-petg-12mm-od-tube-length-500mm.html
> 
> As you intend to use braiding over the tube, the OD of the tubing will depend on the the size of the braiding material. If 3/4" or 5/8" OD is too large and gawdy to you when braided, then you may want to use 1/2" OD or other. Then find a brand of tubing to match the look you want.
> 
> Here is an alternative for you ponder:
> https://modmymods.com/tubing/hard-tubing.html
> If I hadn't already bought all the tubing for my current project, I would be all over this stuff. If my boss (the wife) gives me more allowance money, maybe I can swing it! :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are not familiar with ModMyMods, they are a legitimate business opened by some of the EX-employees of FrozenCPU, but have nothing to do with them. They are a good group of people.
Click to expand...

Strange,E22 is my 'goto' tube. I use it pretty much exclusively.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> No just wondering why Cautious said dont use PETG


I remembered a thread that argued the virtues of acrylic and PETG. From what I got out of a quick skimming review of pages 1 -10, PETG is believed (shown? proven?) to allow water to evaporate (microscopically) depleting cooling medium and may (can?) cause fogging.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Strange,E22 is my 'goto' tube. I use it pretty much exclusively.


Hence my reference to other experiences. Yes, the 10mm ID / 12mm OD E22 brand acrylic tubing I used was incredibly difficult for me to install into the sealing O-ring in the enhance fittings. The compression ring also scraped the OD of the tube. It was sanded and angled as recommended. The Bitspower 10/12mm tubing worked as one would expect. An oddity possibly?


----------



## Ceadderman

That's why you have a clear Res. So you can see when you need to add more coolant.

Fogging isn't an issue for me cuz I use white tubing. And if I were to change color schemes, I would go with color or Black not using dye certainly gives me more options as to what I can do.

So the two issues imho are quite trivial.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> why no petg I thought it was better than acrylic? so 12mm OD I'll have to see what there is.
> 
> I seen it found that after I thought of doing it before glad Its not a hard as I thought it might be.


Pretty sure PETG could possibly get cloudy? Not As clear as Acrylic. 12mm Fittings and Bitspower 12mm Crystal link Tubing makes the World an easier place to live in.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pretty sure PETG could possibly get cloudy? Not As clear as Acrylic. 12mm Fittings and Bitspower 12mm Crystal link Tubing makes the World an easier place to live in.
> 
> TCO


I know the king himself, BNEG, prefers acrylic, but I haven't had any issues with PETG. I've been using it since April of this year, and no issues that I've seen with pastel coolants. When I parted out my 750D build, the tubing looked brand new when I washed it out.


----------



## Allan P

Hello everyone. I've finally decided to make the move towards water cooling to fill my Switch 810 up. I have the stuff now and decided to start installing it. Once I had started my leak testing without starting the pump, the fittings started leaking from the Res, so I changed those out with others I had. Then a leak sprang at my CPU waterblock and 120mm radiator (at rear fan position). I'm considering returning these XSPC barbs but I'm not sure what to get. What do you's suggest?


----------



## Archea47

Do you have clamps on the hoses?


----------



## Allan P

Yep. I have worm gear hose clamps on them and they're as tight as they can get.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allan P*
> 
> Yep. I have worm gear hose clamps on them and they're as tight as they can get.


As tight as you can get might not be the best idea, the clamps can bite into the tubing and cause a leak. I had to stop using those clamps on 3/8 1/2 tubing because moving the tube at all would cause a leak where the clamp cut into the tube.


----------



## Allan P

Hmm this is good to know. I thought that maybe making them really tight would be better since it would mean the hose would not move at all. Regarding the reservoir, the leak was where the hose and barb met. For the other two leaks I think it was originating where the radiator/block met the barb. Could it possibly be the O-rings that are causing it? These hoses (1/2 x 3/4) do seem to slide onto the barbs a little easier than I thought they should.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allan P*
> 
> Hmm this is good to know. I thought that maybe making them really tight would be better since it would mean the hose would not move at all. Regarding the reservoir, the leak was where the hose and barb met. For the other two leaks I think it was originating where the radiator/block met the barb. Could it possibly be the O-rings that are causing it? These hoses (1/2 x 3/4) do seem to slide onto the barbs a little easier than I thought they should.


Your tubing is twice as thick as the ones I had trouble with so you might be ok with the clamps, just keep in mind that it's soft tubing and those clamps are probably designed for cars. I have 3/8 xspc barbs and ek and alphacool, none have had any leaks so far. I had ek high flow 1/2 barbs years ago and they were easy to get tubing on or off, I did use metal clamps on those without issues iirc.

.. just dug up those 1/2 fittings and clamps and doing the clamps up until the clamp flattened around the tube and got hard to tighten further didn't cause any leaks with the old tygon tubing I had even swinging it around a bit, so it seems the clamps aren't the problem.


----------



## Allan P

I slightly regret choosing to use such thick tubing. This stuff becomes a pain in my butt when I need to make a turn with it.

I will keep in mind to be careful about how tight I am making the clamps so as to not cut into the tubing at all. You are probably right that these are make for automotive use as I had bought them from the local hardware store.

I think that narrows it down to being either bad fittings or I am too incompetent to hook them up. Hopefully they're just faulty ones since two of them seem to work fine. I'm not sure about some of them yet.


----------



## VeritronX

I find 3/8 5/8 to be the nicest to use as far as soft tubing goes, it has the same wall thickness as the 1/2 3/4 but can make much tighter turns. I managed to watercool an i5 and a gtx 480 in an sg05 sff case with 3/8 5/8 tubing back in 2010.

Found a pic from the teardown of that build:


----------



## Remizon

Deleted


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is one cool, little machine. I have wanted to do a build almost exactly like that for a while now. Very nice!


----------



## Remizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> That is one cool, little machine. I have wanted to do a build almost exactly like that for a while now. Very nice!


Thanks!








Go for it!


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*


Nice build you have there =D



Unfortunately I didn't have any room for my uv lighting in the final build. Also footlong cathodes for scale lol. I had to cut a hole in the front of the case to fit the 480, it touched the plastic front panel of the sg05 =P


----------



## Ceadderman

What case is that Veritron?









~Ceadder


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pretty sure PETG could possibly get cloudy? Not As clear as Acrylic. 12mm Fittings and Bitspower 12mm Crystal link Tubing makes the World an easier place to live in.
> 
> TCO


Good to know thanks for the info, now I'm just trying to figure out fittings(what works and what doesn't)


----------



## Brulf

99.9% completed wish i had a better camera instead of just my phone... dat one blue wire is annoying me now.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What case is that Veritron?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


He mentioned twice that its an SG05.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What case is that Veritron?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Now that I'm back from work.. It's a SilverStone SG05 with black interior, the one that came with their first 450W SFX power supply. I got that case ordered in specially for me =)

The SG05 is an old design, I remember people putting core2 stuff in them when they came out.. It's basically the Antec 900 of the mini ITX case category. The newer version of it is the SG13, which has the cutout for longer gpu's already done from factory and support for 120mm or 140mm AIO liquid cooling out of the box.


----------



## Methodical

Well I finished my water loop and have been running my system for about 1 day now and my thoughts are that water cooling is worth the investment.

Just an example of the improvement. Playing BF3, my 980 Ti ACX 2.0+ is running at 45*C with a +200 on the core for 1390 mhz and at stock settings (max boost 1190) it's running at 42*C. In stock form, with the fans, I was at 72-74*C, using EVGA's fan curve and at about 64-70*C (depending on room temps) using the aggressive fan curve, so that's 20-30+ degree difference, depending on how you want look at. I typically used the less aggressive fan curve. Also, my CPU (about 70% load) has not gone over 58*C and that's about a 10*C difference from the Swiftech H220X. At the moment, the water temperature is 26.5*C and room temperature is 24*C. I assume that's ok.

Again, worth the investment. However, if I ever do it again, I am getting more 90* fittings, so that I don't have to make too many 90* bends - PITA.

Al


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What case is that Veritron?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He mentioned twice that its an SG05.
Click to expand...

Homecoming was last night and my daughter was being a spaz. So to say that my attention was diverted would be an understatement.









Okay. Kewl thank you for clarifying Veritron. Much appreciated.









~Ceadder


----------



## Valgaur

Hello!

I am in need of some advice. I am scaling back my hardware stockpile pretty drastically. I am planning to put most of the funds into a new/rebuild of my PC and would like some thoughts on my plans.

I would like to do a WC build but really don't know much about it and need a little guidance. Here are some Parts that I'm thinking:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Mobo: MSI X99A XPOWER AC


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






GPU#1: GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5
GPU#2:GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5
CPU: 5820K
CASE: Air 540

I would like to do some motherboard watercooling, I want to make this build looks really nice, but I can't really find any motherboard blocks for it. What other motherboards or blocks for them would you think?

Truly,
Val


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Looked at this motherboard when I switched to 2011 and there is this block for it: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-mosfet-msi-x99-xpower-acetal-nickel
or clear: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-mosfet-msi-x99-xpower-nickel


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Looked at this motherboard when I switched to 2011 and there is this block for it: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-mosfet-msi-x99-xpower-acetal-nickel
> or clear: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-mosfet-msi-x99-xpower-nickel


So there isn't one for the chipset it seems.


----------



## Allan P

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> I find 3/8 5/8 to be the nicest to use as far as soft tubing goes, it has the same wall thickness as the 1/2 3/4 but can make much tighter turns. I managed to watercool an i5 and a gtx 480 in an sg05 sff case with 3/8 5/8 tubing back in 2010.
> 
> Found a pic from the teardown of that build:


That looks pretty good. The case you were using made that tubing look much thicker than 3/8 5/8. It looks thicker than the stuff I'm using which sucks when it comes to making turns.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> So there isn't one for the chipset it seems.


None from the X99 motherboards get a chipset only block from EK. Only Asus and Gigabyte get full block kits for X99 from EK, which is why I eventually got a Gigabyte X99 UD5 motherboard, well that and the fact that it cost 140$


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> None from the X99 motherboards get a chipset only block from EK. Only Asus and Gigabyte get full block kits for X99 from EK, which is why I eventually got a Gigabyte X99 UD5 motherboard, well that and the fact that it cost 140$


Thats kind of the thoughts I'm on, I'm really not sure what motherboard to get, I would love dual nic's but don't really need them, I just need a solid board for the next 4 years, I'd prefer to do the full board cooling option as well.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Thats kind of the thoughts I'm on, I'm really not sure what motherboard to get, I would love dual nic's but don't really need them, I just need a solid board for the next 4 years, *I'd prefer to do the full board cooling option as well.*


That makes it simple then, Asus or Gigabyte! Rampage V is very nice and Asus are solid boards, but no way I'd ever pay that much. I read many not too great reviews about Gigabyte X99 boards, particularly related to the BIOS, but didn't experience any of the issues others had. Microcenter made it an easy decision, 140$ open box X99 UD5 coupled with a 20$ 2 year replacement plan (extra protection against any potential Gigabyte customer service issues) and I've been a happy camper for three moths or so.
Also, this Ek full bock fits several X99 Gigabyte boards: http://configurator.ekwb.com/waterblock/3831109821336


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> That makes it simple then, Asus or Gigabyte! Rampage V is very nice and Asus are solid boards, but no way I'd ever pay that much. I read many not too great reviews about Gigabyte X99 boards, particularly related to the BIOS, but didn't experience any of the issues others had. Microcenter made it an easy decision, 140$ open box X99 UD5 coupled with a 20$ 2 year replacement plan (extra protection against any potential Gigabyte customer service issues) and I've been a happy camper for three moths or so.
> Also, this Ek full bock fits several X99 Gigabyte boards: http://configurator.ekwb.com/waterblock/3831109821336


I think this is my mobo, GA-X99-GAMING G1 WIFI

Appreciate it man!


----------



## pc-illiterate

the last i read was to stay away from any asus board with an overclock socket. its not my platform but i dont know if asus ever admitted it was their boards fault.
oh, what was the problem? you asked. cpu were frying left n right.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummm I think that stance is rather one sided, considering it was Corsair who neglected to Merion to *anyone* that they changed the firmware that caused the issue with the ASUS boards to begin with.

imho It is Corsair fault for not doing so. ASUS bends over backwards to make sure their hardware works smoothly and I am sure had Corsair informed them of the change, that ASUS would've either informed them of the issue or would have addressed the issue in their labs.

Simply throwing ASUS under the bus as though they did it is rather short sighted.

I have heard that it wasn't just Corsair but I won't rule out the other incidents I'd heard of. Considering Corsair doesn't normally build their PSUs and the company that does is truly the one to blame. If you change anything power related, don't you think you should inform the companies building the mainboards so that they can test and correct for potential issues?









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

seeing that it was only asus' overclock socket, it is asus' fault. also, you are doing exactly what asus did and not put the blame on asus. they took no blame and failed to mention to anyone what was happening. they refused to acknowledge the issue. also, it wasnt only corsair power supplies it was happening to. it was various psu manufacturers being used. asus made a socket that didnt work like it was expected to.


----------



## Ceadderman

I never said ASUS *wasn't* at any fault. I said that had they been notified(Corsair admitted they informed nobody of the change in firmware) they would've likely tested and fixed it themselves prior to building, boxing and shipping the affected boards.

Now prove to me they *knew* prior to launch of the issue. Because I doubt you will find anything or anyone representative to ASUS stating they knew of the issue prior to launch. I'd bet it came as a complete shock to them the moment people started calling in about their board frying $1k chips.

That's not to say that they aren't somewhat culpable in the issue. Just that it probably would've saved them ALOT of money in manufacturing and RMA processes.









~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

Are you guys talking about Fried Chips due to over-volting or what?

I have seen my RVE pump out 2V to the cores while in the BIOS. CPU still alive and all. But the issue cannot be replicated. I've tried, I failed. I'm sure I am not using a Corsair PSU too.









Water cooling-wise Asus and Gigas are the only ones with Full Chipset blocks. But even the VRMs don't need water cooling unless you really want to.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *I never said ASUS wasn't at any fault*. I said that had they been notified(Corsair admitted they informed nobody of the change in firmware) they would've likely tested and fixed it themselves prior to building, boxing and shipping the affected boards.
> 
> ~Ceadder


sure ok
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ummm I think that stance is rather one sided, considering it was Corsair who neglected to Merion to *anyone* that they changed the firmware that caused the issue with the ASUS boards to begin with.
> 
> imho It is Corsair fault for not doing so.
> 
> ~Ceadder


it was asus' fault. some boards had problems some didnt. some burnt chips were overclocked and some were stock. asus would not recognize or acknowledge an issue. that is pure and simple neglect no matter what any person, fanboy or not, has to say about it.

now back to on topic since asus negligence is not water cooling directed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes.

But we're speaking of the x99-Deluxe with OC socket. iirc.

The issue asfaik didn't appear on RoG boards. I could be wrong, but I haven't heard anything about them in that regard.









^Please show me where I said they are not at fault in any shape form or fashion of the very definition of fault. You can call me whatever you like if you wish to. Still doesn't change the facts.

Board manufacturer is blamed for issue resulting at the hands of the PSU.

PSU escapes blame because boardanufacturer doesn't own up.

Sounds a bit like the Firestone issue connected to Ford Exploders having improperly marked psi ratings on their door jambs.

Talk about stupid ridiculous imho.









I would defend whoever the board manufacturer is because they by Corsair own admission were not notified of the change in firmware. Corsair don't make their own PSU. Their manufacturer(Seasonic) does. How many of those brand name PSUs are manufactured by Seasonic that helped cause the issue? Do you even know?









And yet I'm a "fanboy".









Try applying some critical thought to the entire issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

first of all "insert derogatory remark here" you obviously didnt read what you typed or i quoted you as typing.

look at my motherboard. look at my psu. look at...you know what, nevermind. you aint worth it. just read what i quoted you as typing. you blamed corsair.

keep going and you can join the others in the "cant see what you say hope you dont get quoted cause it means nothing" basket.

oh, plenty of others build corsair power supplies. you research what power supplies were used in the garbage making motherboards. i did it before for someone else and i wont do it again for a fanboy.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, let me take stock of what I did say.

1)Yes in the initial I did blame Corsair.
2)But in same post I also blamed their builder noting that Corsair *doesn't* build their units. They're simply rebadged units.

Never once did I state that ASUS doesn't hold any responsibility.

But I also mentioned that had they been given the heads up in a timely fashion that the issue could've been completely avoided altogether.

Do you seriously believe ASUS is in business to fry $1k chips? I know they aren't.

And please stop with the childish reverting to name calling. That's not what this site is about. I haven't once called you a name and you continue to be abusive because I hold a different slant on the issue than you do.

Forgive my naivete for thinking this could simply be a reasonable discussion of the entire issue and not devolve into a cherry picked peeing contest.

Said it.once and I will say it yet again for the cheap seats.

*I will step up and defend any company being thrown under the bus while those that are also responsible keep their spotless reputation intact at their expense. I don't give a flying fart in a spacesuit on fridays, what company it is. They have no loyalty to me and I have no "fanboy" loyalty toward them. They don't pay me a single cent and I don't product review for them so no hardware there either.*

Now grow up.

~Ceadder


----------



## russ18uk

Asus threw themselves under the bus and have been hiding there since, pretending it doesn't exist.

Only Asus has the problem and Asus don't even need to take the hit as Intel have to cough up RMAs from consumers who are none the wiser the issue even exists.


----------



## Ceadderman

Does ASUS manufacture or rebadge Power Supplies?









But from what I have seen they addressed the issue of the afflicted board with a revision. I can't speak to their RMA support for the afflicted boards but I suspect that's been fleshed out too.

Again I am not absolving ASUS, but I cannot see where they were more culpable than the companies pushing out PSUs and not informing their manufacturing partners.

I guess there would be more of an outcry if those units bored a few thousand high end SLi kits because they didn't even tell the end user they made changes either.

Does ASUS have a role in this other than unsuspecting victim? Likely. But it's not black and white in this community and I simply wish for people to take their rose colored glasses off when things like this happen. Maye this is simply asking too much.









~Ceadder


----------



## russ18uk

Do you honestly think the power supply feeds the CPU directly without going through inductors, regulators, filters etc that the motherboard does - which again the motherboard then decides WHAT voltage is to be supplied to the CPU (OC socket supposedly bypasses the integrated voltage regulator).

If this was a power supply issue we would have seen this on other brands; i have not read such but there are numerous reports if Asus boards killing chips in Wenty's 5960X thread.

Stop throwing mud at the situation in the form of blaming power supplies.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Does ASUS manufacture or rebadge Power Supplies?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But from what I have seen they addressed the issue of the afflicted board with a revision. I can't speak to their RMA support for the afflicted boards but I suspect that's been fleshed out too.
> 
> Again I am not absolving ASUS, but I cannot see where they were more culpable than the companies pushing out PSUs and not informing their manufacturing partners.
> 
> I guess there would be more of an outcry if those units bored a few thousand high end SLi kits because they didn't even tell the end user they made changes either.
> 
> Does ASUS have a role in this other than unsuspecting victim? Likely. But it's not black and white in this community and I simply wish for people to take their rose colored glasses off when things like this happen. Maye this is simply asking too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Did the aforementioned PSUs comply to ATX spec? Seeing as the affected parts are ASUS designed and are not Intel spec,im finding it hard to absolve them....

I'm not really genned up current socket woes Tbh....


----------



## BrjSan

I am Too ... Too Noob to give my opinion here....

But seeing all the posts on this subject, i wish some one with some skills in Electricity/Electrician/Volt guy Guru would volunteer for an extra effort and post some explanation on the under laying electric structure of the MOBO *(including socket and other slots)* and how would they communicate/affected with the source of power.

That would be a better debate and reasoning,i think, at least .... and would teach others and spread knowledge ..... (others like me inclusive)......

If not in this thread then may be link it to the original one, or another thread.....

*JUST AN OPINION.*

Peace.


----------



## VeritronX

The problem with blaming power supplies is that their job is well defined and relatively simple, as long as the power supply is within spec it comes down to how the motherboard uses and converts that power and where it sends it.

The Asus socket uses extra pins beyond what intel specified, trying to help with overclock stability.. including the memory overclocking when xmp is turned on (yes using xmp is overclocking, the memory controller isn't specced that high and often needs to be overvolted to cope)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Are you guys talking about Fried Chips due to over-volting or what?
> 
> I have seen my RVE pump out 2V to the cores while in the BIOS. CPU still alive and all. But the issue cannot be replicated. I've tried, I failed. I'm sure I am not using a Corsair PSU too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water cooling-wise Asus and Gigas are the only ones with Full Chipset blocks. But even the VRMs don't need water cooling unless you really want to.


Well I have the RVE Asus Board. And I had not a 2.0Core V Pumping in the Socket in BIOS, but It did raise itself to 1.5Core V. The BIOS hit me with a warning once I was going to save trying to boot back into windows, so I backed out and went again into the BIOS knowing damn well that I would never input 1.5Core V for any OC (And NO, I do not use LN2)

It was a worriesome morning, but I battled through it, Shook the Sweat off and the Rig is running top Notch at 1.25V/ 4.325 Ghz

And quite honestly, It still could have been human error.
TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

I keep a close eye on my voltages on my boards and haven't seen any issues with my 1st gen R5E board, but again I have it manually set to a 1.255 to hit 4.4 (current 5930k clock). (Other voltage I'd have to go back and note for future replies - on mobile at the moment).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well I have the RVE Asus Board. And I had not a 2.0Core V Pumping in the Socket in BIOS, but It did raise itself to 1.5Core V. The BIOS hit me with a warning once I was going to save trying to boot back into windows, so I backed out and went again into the BIOS knowing damn well that I would never input 1.5Core V for any OC (And NO, I do not use LN2)
> 
> It was a worriesome morning, but I battled through it, Shook the Sweat off and the Rig is running top Notch at 1.25V/ 4.325 Ghz
> 
> And quite honestly, It still could have been human error.
> TCO


It's an irreproducible phenomenon. There have been a number of reports on this issue. But you can't just dial in a setting to redo it.

I have heard maybe a couple of users that went through the same routine as I did wjen the OVing happened. Windows > BIOS > OV Warning > 2.0 Vcore. 5930K is still alive though. And still clocks to where it's at previously. 4.5 at 1.25V
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I keep a close eye on my voltages on my boards and haven't seen any issues with my 1st gen R5E board, but again I have it manually set to a 1.255 to hit 4.4 (current 5930k clock). (Other voltage I'd have to go back and note for future replies - on mobile at the moment).


Just keep it safe mate. No one will know when it will hit you if it decides to hit you. We all hope it won't. Guess it's best to keep the thing ON always.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I keep a close eye on my voltages on my boards and haven't seen any issues with my 1st gen R5E board, but again I have it manually set to a 1.255 to hit 4.4 (current 5930k clock). (Other voltage I'd have to go back and note for future replies - on mobile at the moment).


I was running manual voltage when it happened to me, FWIW.


----------



## crafty615

I have my 4 EK Vardars for my xspc RX 480 plugged into my cpu fan header, is there any software that allows easy control of the fan speeds? Right now it just speeds it up automatically when underload as it did with stock cooler. I just want a more convenient way to do this rather than enter bios everytime.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, what metals are usually inside of EKWB radiators and CPU blocks? I recently got some used watercooling stuff, and I don't know what metal is in the radiator or the block. The radiator is a 240 if that helps, and the blocks looks like a supremacy MX, but the whole block is black, whereas the MX has clear sides. Pleas help!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I was running manual voltage when it happened to me, FWIW.


Same here. Fully Manual Mode

TCO


----------



## Dasandmancometh

One question for you guys about GPU blocks. I'm going to be running two GeForce 970s with EK full blocks With a parallel block. Can I run the direction backwards from the norm for my loop? Does it really matter what direction it flows?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Same here. Fully Manual Mode
> 
> TCO


I'm running adaptive vcore now, just pointing out that manually setting vcore does not guarantee anything.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I have my 4 EK Vardars for my xspc RX 480 plugged into my cpu fan header, is there any software that allows easy control of the fan speeds? Right now it just speeds it up automatically when underload as it did with stock cooler. I just want a more convenient way to do this rather than enter bios everytime.


AI Suite or Speedfan come to mind. For simple control like setting fan at fixed speed, any monitoring software can do it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, what metals are usually inside of EKWB radiators and CPU blocks? I recently got some used watercooling stuff, and I don't know what metal is in the radiator or the block. The radiator is a 240 if that helps, and the blocks looks like a supremacy MX, but the whole block is black, whereas the MX has clear sides. Pleas help!


CPU block - copper
Radiator - copper + brass


----------



## VSG

Another day, another XSPC Raystorm. Or is it?



















It's the as yet unreleased XSPC Raystorm Pro, and in the copper top variant too featuring precise mounting hardware:









































































Comparison to standard Raystorm (acetal) on the left:














































The Raystorm Pro occupies the same footprint as the standard Raystorm, meaning that the new precise mounting will work with the Raystorm also (and will be available for purchase separately I believe). Installation was a lot easier than with the previous guesswork mounting:










The mounting bracket here is also all metal, and so it won't flex/crack easily. Not that it is an issue with the precise mounting, but still good to see. This is a preproduction model, and no I can't share any results or pics of the internals. No idea on pricing or release date either at this point.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> One question for you guys about GPU blocks. I'm going to be running two GeForce 970s with EK full blocks With a parallel block. Can I run the direction backwards from the norm for my loop? Does it really matter what direction it flows?


Not thru a GPU block,they work in any direction,tbh most blocks work in any direction...even CPU blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another XSPC Raystorm. Or is it?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the as yet unreleased XSPC Raystorm Pro, and in the copper top variant too featuring precise mounting hardware:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comparison to standard Raystorm (acetal) on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Raystorm Pro occupies the same footprint as the standard Raystorm, meaning that the new precise mounting will work with the Raystorm also (and will be available for purchase separately I believe). Installation was a lot easier than with the previous guesswork mounting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mounting bracket here is also all metal, and so it won't flex/crack easily. Not that it is an issue with the precise mounting, but still good to see. This is a preproduction model, and no I can't share any results or pics of the internals. No idea on pricing or release date either at this point.
Click to expand...

Yeah,but it is still a Raystorm.....


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> AI Suite or Speedfan come to mind. For simple control like setting fan at fixed speed, any monitoring software can do it.
> CPU block - copper
> Radiator - copper + brass


Which part I the radiator is going to be exposed to the flow of the water? Will brass+ copper induce corrosion?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> AI Suite or Speedfan come to mind. For simple control like setting fan at fixed speed, any monitoring software can do it.
> CPU block - copper
> Radiator - copper + brass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which part I the radiator is going to be exposed to the flow of the water? Will brass+ copper induce corrosion?
Click to expand...

Copper tube & brass chamber, so both will exposed to water. Brass & copper are fine in the loop.

Galvanic corrosion chart for your reference.
http://www.npfasteners.com/pdfs/galvanic-corrosion-chart.pdf


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Ceadderman

All I am saying on the ASUS/PSU issue is that ASUS obviously expected things to remain as they were for the ATX standard. They built those sockets and yes there were issues. But we found out that somebody along the PSU side changed something. I understand there are caps and regulators and how a motherboard works. But consider this, If you wire up a single plug 240 socket on a 120 line and don't tell anybody are you at fault if there is an issue or is the manufacturer of whatever had a meltdown in that socket. I'm sure ASUS is not without blame on the issue, but they most certainly aren't the only one at fault. They wired up their socket to work a specific way. A revision was made that affected that socket model. I don't know where the issue lay in the socket. It very well could have put more juice on a single rail and overvolted a single pin. I don't know what happened other than what I read from the links that pc-illiterate provided a while back. I do know that Corsair said they had a firmware change and didn't inform anybody. That should never happen in the PSU market. If it's a minor change i.e. 1 cap to two caps to share a load due to single cap failures fine. That sort of change is to be expected as it's an integrity/safety issue.

Since pc took his ball and went home, I don't have the links handy but I found this link...

http://www.legitreviews.com/intel-x99-motherboard-goes-up-in-smoke-for-reasons-unknown_150008

And if you read further in you will see that Author cites another brand(MSi) via cited link to Phoenix reviews.

I will do the legwork when necessary and in this case it kind of is cause I got labeled unfairly. Only wanted to have a general discussion about all the facts not just the cherry picked bits.

Corsair had the PSU in question listed as 1 rail. When in fact it is/was a 3 rail unit. That kind of Change without telling anyone and advertising as it's not is no bueno for anybody. Least of all us the enthusiast sector.

Just because I own ASUS products don't make me a fanboy. Especially when half my system is Corsair. My PSU is indeed Corsair and my RAM is also Corsair.

Did I blame Corsair? To some extent I did. It's not their baby but it is their packaging and they're as much at fault imho. But when an MSi fries a component as well? Sorry but unless there is collusion between Mainboard manufacturers I have an even harder time sticking the blame squarely on ASUS...

Edit.

I have read along even further into the issue. ASUS took that incident squarely on the chin. So'kay there you go. But that don't absolve Corsair by a long shot. Considering that corsair shipped single rail units w/o OCP for 4 months an shipped single rail units with OCP later. That's 4 months of mass quantity shipping where anything can happen.

OCP is over current protection.

Corsair won't even replace those 4 months worth of units so users with the single rail non OCP will have to sort it out with a software fix.









~Ceadder


----------



## russ18uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> All I am saying on the ASUS/PSU issue is that ASUS obviously expected things to remain as they were for the ATX standard. They built those sockets and yes there were issues. But we found out that somebody along the PSU side changed something. I understand there are caps and regulators and how a motherboard works. But consider this, If you wire up a single plug 240 socket on a 120 line and don't tell anybody are you at fault if there is an issue or is the manufacturer of whatever had a meltdown in that socket. I'm sure ASUS is not without blame on the issue, but they most certainly aren't the only one at fault. They wired up their socket to work a specific way. A revision was made that affected that socket model. I don't know where the issue lay in the socket. It very well could have put more juice on a single rail and overvolted a single pin. I don't know what happened other than what I read from the links that pc-illiterate provided a while back. I do know that Corsair said they had a firmware change and didn't inform anybody. That should never happen in the PSU market. If it's a minor change i.e. 1 cap to two caps to share a load due to single cap failures fine. That sort of change is to be expected as it's an integrity/safety issue.


You're missing the point. If the motherboard is getting 12v from the PSU to power the CPU, there is nothing out of spec. If the PSU was over-volting (talking a huge over-spec on the 12v rail and you then have to pass that voltage through the board regulation circuit to the CPU without killing any passives!) Not least your Hard drives would also die. OCP should have kicked the PSU off if the chip was pulling too much current, but since we know that wattage = current * voltage, over-volting won't pull over-current as the CPU is not in demand during POST. And even if it did, it'd be highly unlikely that the regulation circuitry would handle such ridiculous current.

So, we can think logically here and sum to the conclusion that somewhere along the line the motherboard circuitry the motherboard decided to send a large amount of voltage into many people's CPUs. It's not a fault of the OC socket - Gigabyte and MSI both have it and it has not happened to either.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1561131/5960x-dead
[/quote]


----------



## kl6mk6

So did ASUS and Corsair fix the issues?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> All I am saying on the ASUS/PSU issue is that ASUS obviously expected things to remain as they were for the ATX standard. They built those sockets and yes there were issues. But we found out that somebody along the PSU side changed something. I understand there are caps and regulators and how a motherboard works. But consider this, If you wire up a single plug 240 socket on a 120 line and don't tell anybody are you at fault if there is an issue or is the manufacturer of whatever had a meltdown in that socket. I'm sure ASUS is not without blame on the issue, but they most certainly aren't the only one at fault. They wired up their socket to work a specific way. A revision was made that affected that socket model. I don't know where the issue lay in the socket. It very well could have put more juice on a single rail and overvolted a single pin. I don't know what happened other than what I read from the links that pc-illiterate provided a while back. I do know that Corsair said they had a firmware change and didn't inform anybody. That should never happen in the PSU market. If it's a minor change i.e. 1 cap to two caps to share a load due to single cap failures fine. That sort of change is to be expected as it's an integrity/safety issue.
> 
> Since pc took his ball and went home, I don't have the links handy but I found this link...
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/intel-x99-motherboard-goes-up-in-smoke-for-reasons-unknown_150008
> 
> And if you read further in you will see that Author cites another brand(MSi) via cited link to Phoenix reviews.
> 
> I will do the legwork when necessary and in this case it kind of is cause I got labeled unfairly. Only wanted to have a general discussion about all the facts not just the cherry picked bits.
> 
> Corsair had the PSU in question listed as 1 rail. When in fact it is/was a 3 rail unit. That kind of Change without telling anyone and advertising as it's not is no bueno for anybody. Least of all us the enthusiast sector.
> 
> Just because I own ASUS products don't make me a fanboy. Especially when half my system is Corsair. My PSU is indeed Corsair and my RAM is also Corsair.
> 
> Did I blame Corsair? To some extent I did. It's not their baby but it is their packaging and they're as much at fault imho. But when an MSi fries a component as well? Sorry but unless there is collusion between Mainboard manufacturers I have an even harder time sticking the blame squarely on ASUS...
> 
> Edit.
> 
> I have read along even further into the issue. ASUS took that incident squarely on the chin. So'kay there you go. But that don't absolve Corsair by a long shot. Considering that corsair shipped single rail units w/o OCP for 4 months an shipped single rail units with OCP later. That's 4 months of mass quantity shipping where anything can happen.
> 
> OCP is over current protection.
> 
> Corsair won't even replace those 4 months worth of units so users with the single rail non OCP will have to sort it out with a software fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry Ceadder but ATX spec is ATX spec,if it doesnt comply then its a fault,the PSU's may of indeed been revised but they still have to conform to the same standard. The PSU was never going to be the problem,not when it was ASUS that made the socket non conforming to begin with. They took it upon themselves to change the LGA away from Intel spec.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Another day, another XSPC Raystorm. Or is it?
> .


Looks nice but i wish they would use Metal hold down plates not plastic. This is my personal view and does not change the way the CPU block works ofc.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> So did ASUS and Corsair fix the issues?


IMHO, there are far better places to discuss this than in "Watercooling", but there are a couple of things that always seem to cloud the water, so to speak.

The Legit Reviews article appears to wrap the issue up with a nice and tidy ending -PSU seemingly acting up, and a new bios to the rescue. But the article was written over a year (and a few bios revisions) ago, with the "resolution" entry on 10-24-14. Yet the issue still presents itself, mine was on 7-30-15 with the most current bios out at the time.

So don't take an article that's a year old as the final word. However, for those who doubt that a PSU has anything to do with the issue, I suggest they read the entire Legit Reviews article (with attention to the 10-24-14 "resolution" entry) to get a sense for the interaction of the PSU and VRM on the mobo.


----------



## russ18uk

A power supply cannot force
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> IMHO, there are far better places to discuss this than in "Watercooling", but there are a couple of things that always seem to cloud the water, so to speak.
> 
> The Legit Reviews article appears to wrap the issue up with a nice and tidy ending -PSU seemingly acting up, and a new bios to the rescue. But the article was written over a year (and a few bios revisions) ago, with the "resolution" entry on 10-24-14. Yet the issue still presents itself, mine was on 7-30-15 with the most current bios out at the time.
> 
> So don't take an article that's a year old as the final word. However, for those who doubt that a PSU has anything to do with the issue, I suggest they read the entire Legit Reviews article (with attention to the 10-24-14 "resolution" entry) to get a sense for the interaction of the PSU and VRM on the mobo.


That "10-24-14" update is deliberately vague: "power supply OCP/Shutdown anomalies" this is not the work of voodoo no matter what kind of spin has been put on it.

The OCP stuff is said to be partially to blame so ASUS does not have to take a stance that it is categorically their fault. Like a court case thrown out even with concrete evidence that person a murdered person b, but where person c cannot be 100% certain a technicality throws in "reasonable doubt".

The thread linked above - http://www.overclock.net/t/1561131/5960x-dead - has numerous conditions that this has happened. The issue is, the only non-unique factor is that the boards are manufactured by ASUS. That is beyond coincidence.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Looks nice but i wish they would use Metal hold down plates not plastic. This is my personal view and does not change the way the CPU block works ofc.


The plate is metal now in this version, not sure if it is an optional extra or included with all variations of this block though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> All I am saying on the ASUS/PSU issue is that ASUS obviously expected things to remain as they were for the ATX standard. They built those sockets and yes there were issues. But we found out that somebody along the PSU side changed something. I understand there are caps and regulators and how a motherboard works. But consider this, If you wire up a single plug 240 socket on a 120 line and don't tell anybody are you at fault if there is an issue or is the manufacturer of whatever had a meltdown in that socket. I'm sure ASUS is not without blame on the issue, but they most certainly aren't the only one at fault. They wired up their socket to work a specific way. A revision was made that affected that socket model. I don't know where the issue lay in the socket. It very well could have put more juice on a single rail and overvolted a single pin. I don't know what happened other than what I read from the links that pc-illiterate provided a while back. I do know that Corsair said they had a firmware change and didn't inform anybody. That should never happen in the PSU market. If it's a minor change i.e. 1 cap to two caps to share a load due to single cap failures fine. That sort of change is to be expected as it's an integrity/safety issue.
> 
> Since pc took his ball and went home, I don't have the links handy but I found this link...
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/intel-x99-motherboard-goes-up-in-smoke-for-reasons-unknown_150008
> 
> And if you read further in you will see that Author cites another brand(MSi) via cited link to Phoenix reviews.
> 
> I will do the legwork when necessary and in this case it kind of is cause I got labeled unfairly. Only wanted to have a general discussion about all the facts not just the cherry picked bits.
> 
> Corsair had the PSU in question listed as 1 rail. When in fact it is/was a 3 rail unit. That kind of Change without telling anyone and advertising as it's not is no bueno for anybody. Least of all us the enthusiast sector.
> 
> Just because I own ASUS products don't make me a fanboy. Especially when half my system is Corsair. My PSU is indeed Corsair and my RAM is also Corsair.
> 
> Did I blame Corsair? To some extent I did. It's not their baby but it is their packaging and they're as much at fault imho. But when an MSi fries a component as well? Sorry but unless there is collusion between Mainboard manufacturers I have an even harder time sticking the blame squarely on ASUS...
> 
> Edit.
> 
> I have read along even further into the issue. ASUS took that incident squarely on the chin. So'kay there you go. But that don't absolve Corsair by a long shot. Considering that corsair shipped single rail units w/o OCP for 4 months an shipped single rail units with OCP later. That's 4 months of mass quantity shipping where anything can happen.
> 
> OCP is over current protection.
> 
> Corsair won't even replace those 4 months worth of units so users with the single rail non OCP will have to sort it out with a software fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Ceadder but ATX spec is ATX spec,if it doesnt comply then its a fault,the PSU's may of indeed been revised but they still have to conform to the same standard. The PSU was never going to be the problem,not when it was ASUS that made the socket non conforming to begin with. They took it upon themselves to change the LGA away from Intel spec.
Click to expand...

Agreed. But it never fails to amaze me that people shrug and point fingers at anything but a PSU and even more so that people ignore that a PSU can cause cascade failure throughout a system. Even a new Power Supply fresh off the UPS truck.

ASUS took it on the chin. If you read through the updates of the posted link they did say that the board was faulty and that a bad BIOS helped it along.

But this also happened with an MSi board. Although I couldn't see which PSU that person used. So I won't even try to speculate that it was the PSU as the cause.

http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&item=msi_x99_fail&num=2

So it didn't just happen to ASUS.









~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ASUS took it on the chin. If you read through the updates of the posted link they did say that the board was faulty and that a bad BIOS helped it along.


The point I was trying to make was that it has happened numerous times since the bios fix mentioned in the Legit Reviews article, with bios revisions issued months afterwards. Too many people take the 10-24-14 "resolution" of that article as an indication of a "fix" being discovered. It wasn't.


----------



## kl6mk6

I think that both ASUS and Corsair are really great companies, but at times get too big for their britches and put out untested crappy products. They are both quick to fix the problems and put out even more great products. No company can put out 100% issue free products.

Now as a penance for arguing about it so much on this forum, anyone who continues the subject should have to put an epic water-cooling pic with each or their rebuttals.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ASUS took it on the chin. If you read through the updates of the posted link they did say that the board was faulty and that a bad BIOS helped it along.
> 
> 
> 
> The point I was trying to make was that it has happened numerous times since the bios fix mentioned in the Legit Reviews article, with bios revisions issued months afterwards. Too many people take the 10-24-14 "resolution" of that article as an indication of a "fix" being discovered. It wasn't.
Click to expand...

Fair enough.









But might that be due to other contributing issues not specific to the motherboard?

I'm not saying that that's what it is, but if you can't fix it by reworking the BIOS then imho, it'seems one of two issues.

Either the boards were incorrectly engineered.

Or there is incompatible hardware in use.

Sure their BIOS lab could be inept, but I would think that there would be more complaints about other platforms having issues which fry hardware, than just one specific platform. And since something similar happened with an MSi platform I am leaning more toward the incompatibility scenario.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Guys, got a small aesthetics issue here. I need to try and balance out the color of my fluid. Should I try to balance out since the reservoir gets so dark, or should I just make my target color be represented in the tubing and deal with the reservoir being extra dark?

I'm using Mayhems blue dye with distilled, and here is a picture that shows a good color representation of how it sits currently.







I'd like to get to a color that's about as dark as the fans/sleeving.


----------



## crafty615

Although I am not done with my build yet, my PC is operational, so I am finally officially a water cooler







I can finally join the club









Here's a little sneak peak:
Ignore all the wires as they haven't been laced yet and are not in their correct places.



Sorry about the phone pic quality.

Desk build log located here


----------



## rikkiepc

Here you go, my latest build








Pretty simple compared to some of the artworks posted here but I'm pretty happy with it.

Define S
6700K
980Ti
MSI Z170 Krait Gaming

iSSUES:

Used crappy Tygon 3606 witch clouded after in less than one weak http://www.overclock.net/t/1170357/plasticizer-leaching-stay-away-from-tygon-3603-tubing
Got some Promochill LTR advanced, hope this is better.

Also, coolant hardly reacts with UV LED strips.


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Guys, got a small aesthetics issue here. I need to try and balance out the color of my fluid. Should I try to balance out since the reservoir gets so dark, or should I just make my target color be represented in the tubing and deal with the reservoir being extra dark?
> 
> I'm using Mayhems blue dye with distilled, and here is a picture that shows a good color representation of how it sits currently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to get to a color that's about as dark as the fans/sleeving.


wow, perfect


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> Here you go, my latest build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty simple compared to some of the artworks posted here but I'm pretty happy with it.
> 
> Define S
> 6700K
> 980Ti
> MSI Z170 Krait Gaming
> 
> iSSUES:
> 
> Used crappy Tygon 3606 witch clouded after in less than one weak http://www.overclock.net/t/1170357/plasticizer-leaching-stay-away-from-tygon-3603-tubing
> Got some Promochill LTR advanced, hope this is better.
> 
> Also, coolant hardly reacts with UV LED strips.


Nice build! Fellow Tweaker! Only thing you are missing is a backplate on the gpu


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Guys, got a small aesthetics issue here. I need to try and balance out the color of my fluid. Should I try to balance out since the reservoir gets so dark, or should I just make my target color be represented in the tubing and deal with the reservoir being extra dark?
> 
> I'm using Mayhems blue dye with distilled, and here is a picture that shows a good color representation of how it sits currently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to get to a color that's about as dark as the fans/sleeving.


Throw in a bottle of X1 UV Blue concentrate and I think you'll get the color you want. You're always going to get a discrepancy between color density betwen res and tubing when using a translucent fluid. Only way I've been able to balance out the two using a transparent fluid was to use 60% silver auorora premix.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> wow, perfect


Thank you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Throw in a bottle of X1 UV Blue concentrate and I think you'll get the color you want. You're always going to get a discrepancy between color density betwen res and tubing when using a translucent fluid. Only way I've been able to balance out the two using a transparent fluid was to use 60% silver auorora premix.


I do still have some of the x1 uv blue, the problem with that is that since I use blue leds it reacts a bit with the uv blue. It then looks a little odd since the fluid slightly glows the light blue uv color. I was thinking about using the silver aurora booster to see how it looks but was told it wouldn't work well in my system.

Thanks for the input I appreciate it.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Guys, got a small aesthetics issue here. I need to try and balance out the color of my fluid. Should I try to balance out since the reservoir gets so dark, or should I just make my target color be represented in the tubing and deal with the reservoir being extra dark?
> 
> I'm using Mayhems blue dye with distilled, and here is a picture that shows a good color representation of how it sits currently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to get to a color that's about as dark as the fans/sleeving.


Those are some amazing hardline runs. Is the discrepancy just because the Res is tucked away in kind of a dark corner? Maybe if you put a faux panel behind it in a light grey or white would it make it contrast better? Maybe even some heavily diffused white led lighting could brighten it up.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Those are some amazing hardline runs. Is the discrepancy just because the Res is tucked away in kind of a dark corner? Maybe if you put a faux panel behind it in a light grey or white would it make it contrast better? Maybe even some heavily diffused white led lighting could brighten it up.


Thank you.









In that picture it is in a shady spot, but the main reason it looks darker is because there is more fluid in it so I guess it's not as translucent as the thinner tubing. The faux panel is in interesting idea, I'll see about that. I've been contemplating the led idea for a bit. I was thinking either putting a single white 5mm at the top of the res or maybe an LED strip behind the res to light it up. Tte problem with the LED route is that everything is already wired up and I would have to disassemble.









The easiest route for an LED is to replace the Blue 5mm in the top of the res to a white one. Positive is that it is already wired for it. Negative is that it would be controlled with the blue led lighting. Thanks for the input.


----------



## electro2u

@sinnedone What is going on here?? lol
Really neat build but I couldn't figure out if these cables and the tubing run are going *through* the radiator.


----------



## sinnedone

Lol

That's not the rad, just a hexagon grille mesh.


----------



## Malik

Worki in progress...


----------



## willemdoom

Looks beautiful ,what case is that?


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe that's the Define S. But I could be wrong.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm voting on it being a corsair case, possibly 300R or along those lines
Or even something out of NZXT's line-up


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Looks beautiful ,what case is that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe that's the Define S. But I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'm voting on it being a corsair case, possibly 300R or along those lines
> Or even something out of NZXT's line-up


It's definitely not a Define S or a 300R. If you look closely, you'll notice the PSU is in a separate "compartment" (you know, like the Air 540). To me it screams Lian Li PC-08, especially when you look at the way the side panel mounts, but the bottom of the PC-08 isn't ventilated like that, nor are the rear fan mount and I/O brackets quite the same. The PC-08 is also taller and would take a 360mm rad... My bet is certainly on something from Lian Li, though. Maybe a PC-08 little brother?


Spoiler: Back of the PC-08 for Comparison


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Looks beautiful ,what case is that?


Jonsbo W2

http://www.cooltek.de/en/jonsbo-powered-by-cooltek/w-series/131/w2

*EDIT*: I win!









*EDIT 2* : ...and I freakin' want one!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Hahaha yup you win and I want one too.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok how to get one state-side


----------



## Ceadderman

Get someone in the UK to receive and ship maybe?

Would be nice if they put a price up to calculate total cost though.









Ceadder


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Nice build! Fellow Tweaker! Only thing you are missing is a backplate on the gpu


Haha well spotted, fellow Tweaker indeed








I thought about a backplate but I don't think it adds a lot to the look. Just not my style I guess. And I completely blew my PC budget for this year...


----------



## Willius

Took a quick pic of my just finished HTPC in a 250D.
It runs on Ubuntu.

Will take better pictures when the light outside is good!


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Took a quick pic of my just finished HTPC in a 250D.
> It runs on Ubuntu.
> 
> Will take better pictures when the light outside is good!


Vader´s loud?

wow, wait...what? You OS is Ubuntu. How do you go for OC ?
__

erso44


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Vader´s loud?
> 
> wow, wait...what? You OS is Ubuntu. How do you go for OC ?
> __
> 
> erso44


No the Vardars are quiet enough for HTPC use, imo at least.
I just OC from the bios? That should work as far as I know?


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Took a quick pic of my just finished HTPC in a 250D.
> It runs on Ubuntu.
> 
> Will take better pictures when the light outside is good!


Nice one! specs?


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
im confused with all the quick disconnects choices. I'm running 13mm (1/2) barbs in my rad box. I'm in need of two sets of QuickDisconnects. What's the cheapest and best option?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> Nice one! specs?


Nothing too fancy!
Pentium g3258 @ 4.2Ghz.
Asrock z97 itx.
Corsair DDR3L ram, it's 1600, not 100% sure.
Corsair carbide 250D.
nVidia GeForce 750ti.
250gb Samsung SSD as boot drive.
EKwb gpu and cpu blocks.
Bitspower 12/10 fittings.
Ubuntu 14 LTS

Will replace the CPU and GPU with the 4670k and 970 when Ill upgrade my desktop when Pascall releases.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> im confused with all the quick disconnects choices. I'm running 13mm (1/2) barbs in my rad box. I'm in need of two sets of QuickDisconnects. What's the cheapest and best option?


Avoid black Koolance at all cost. Silver one are fine. I'm using them but in the future I'll avoid Koolance altogether, I'll try the CPC that EK use in their AIO.


----------



## funfordcobra

Im REALLY impressed with darkside leds. Brightest ive seen! They will hands down be the only leds i buy from now on.

Short comparison video of generic vs darkside:
https://youtu.be/s_JWBYGNSg8

Some pics:

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/20150930_075514.jpg.html[/URL
http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/20150930_075526.jpg.htmlhttp://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/20150930_075556.jpg.html
http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/20150930_075633.jpg.html

As soon as i move later this month im changing to compression fittings and actual UV tube instead of just UV cooling. Thinking of doing a caselabs but i love my cosmos ii soo much lol.
http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/20150930_075941.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Avoid black Koolance at all cost. Silver one are fine. I'm using them but in the future I'll avoid Koolance altogether, I'll try the CPC that EK use in their AIO.


CPC comes in no G1/4 options and barbs of 3/8" size only


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> im confused with all the quick disconnects choices. I'm running 13mm (1/2) barbs in my rad box. I'm in need of two sets of QuickDisconnects. What's the cheapest and best option?


I used this ones here together with Compression-Fittings:

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnect Male Fitting

Bitspower Quick Release Connector G1/4 Female Thread Matte Black


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Avoid black Koolance at all cost. Silver one are fine. I'm using them but in the future I'll avoid Koolance altogether, I'll try the CPC that EK use in their AIO.


Thanks man, I'll check it out. What's wrong with the black Koolance ones? Everywhere online people are impressed with Koolance?
Thanks again.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> CPC comes in no G1/4 options and barbs of 3/8" size only


Not true. G1/4 exist (caseking has one) and if you look at CPC website, they have a wide range of QDC.
It's more like they are hard to find, especially if you are looking in watercooling PC shop. xD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Thanks man, I'll check it out. What's wrong with the black Koolance ones? Everywhere online people are impressed with Koolance?
> Thanks again.


The black ones have buildup issue, see here.


----------



## VeritronX

Here's the Define S I'm working on, complete with leaking bitspower res still installed untill the replacement arrives. Turns out you can fit 3/8 1/2 tubing between the back wall and the 140mm fans inside the case, So I'm going for a all black tube and black metal clamps for the parts that are on that side of the case, and UV green 3/8 5/8 tubing for the run between the waterblocks. Currently it's at the initial leak testing phase so it's missing the rest of the system and the green tubing and coolant.

I'm mostly reusing older cooling parts in this build.. rads, fans, pump, cpu block are all from ~2010 (XSPC RS360, Koolance HX-CU1402V, Oval top EK Supreme HF Acetal Nickel from before the nickel plating saga, D5 with EK X-top rev.2, 4x Scythe GT AP-15's, 4x NoiseBlocker Pk-3's) So far new parts include the pump mounting to the 140mm fan, the res, clamps, 780Ti waterblock and backplate, and the Define S case with it's two 140mm fans.



So far i'm a big fan of the Define S, it has plenty of filtered fan intakes and exhausts to match them, while being considerably smaller than my old TJ07 which was a pain in the butt to plug things into the back of because it only just fit on my desk


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> CPC comes in no G1/4 options and barbs of 3/8" size only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not true. G1/4 exist (caseking has one) and if you look at CPC website, they have a wide range of QDC.
> It's more like they are hard to find, especially if you are looking in watercooling PC shop. xD
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Thanks man, I'll check it out. What's wrong with the black Koolance ones? Everywhere online people are impressed with Koolance?
> Thanks again.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The black ones have buildup issue, see here.
Click to expand...

I thought the problem was the paint.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Not true. G1/4 exist (caseking has one) and if you look at CPC website, they have a wide range of QDC.
> It's more like they are hard to find, especially if you are looking in watercooling PC shop. xD
> The black ones have buildup issue, see here.


Oh cool, I did not see this last time I called up CPC and their distributors. Looks like a male G1/4 only, and female QDC fitting but still that's something. Now if there is a male QDC version of this then it gets a lot better.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Avoid black Koolance at all cost. Silver one are fine. I'm using them but in the future I'll avoid Koolance altogether, I'll try the CPC that EK use in their AIO.
> 
> 
> 
> CPC comes in no G1/4 options and barbs of 3/8" size only
Click to expand...

That disconnect is a stock speedfit part...unless they changed it for release.

Its also fantastically ugly.......

EDIT for the septics. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=28336&catid=743

EDIT2. You would be better off looking at pneumatic fittings,air fittings normally work just as well as hydraulic fittings. For example: http://www.safewayhyd.com/ff49.htm
If you go this route,make sure the fittings are pressure rated rather than vacuum rated.


----------



## EthanKing

A quick phone shot of my freshly built first loop. Really not happy how pale the orange is. Realise now that the runs would look better if the top rad was the other way around.









Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

I like that Orange.









Also I agree with your assessment about the top Rad needing to be 180'ed. It would look cleaner.









~Ceadder


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like that Orange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I agree with your assessment about the top Rad needing to be 180'ed. It would look cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks. Its EK pastel orange but in the pictures on their site it was a really bright orange and its actually even more 'peachy' in person.
When I either change the colour of the liquid or add the GPU to the loop I will fix the top rad, whichever comes first lol.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> A quick phone shot of my freshly built first loop. Really not happy how pale the orange is. Realise now that the runs would look better if the top rad was the other way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


I like the color. It reminds me of Pushup ice cream I ate as a kid. I agree with too about the reversing of the radiator. Fortunately you use soft tube vs hard tube, so the fix would be less painful.


----------



## EthanKing

I have Emailed EKWB about the pastel to see is there any way to brighten it up. It looks like the pictures on the product page have the pastel running through a block without being mixed with distilled imo.

If I was to drain the loop already would it be safe to reuse?

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> I have Emailed EKWB about the pastel to see is there any way to brighten it up. It looks like the pictures on the product page have the pastel running through a block without being mixed with distilled imo.
> 
> If I was to drain the loop already would it be safe to reuse?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


Yes, you can reuse it.


----------



## EthanKing

Thanks









Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

It might be that their lighting may be the reason you're seeing it differently IRL.









~Ceadder


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> In a nutshell, If I was to buy a case right now. It would be the CM MasterCase Pro 5
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119306
> 
> This picture pretty much sums it up.


This case holds a 360 and 240 radiator, correct? What size are the radiators? I at some point may build a strictly gaming rig and would be looking for a case to build a really nice water cooling system.

Thanks


----------



## Chopper1591

Good evening all... or is it morning where some of you live?









Anyway, as this is my favorite thread on the forum and probably (one of) the most active one I am posting here for some help from you enthusiasts once more.

Would you be so kind to read my thread here about cleaning my loop? I am looking for tips on how to clean the loop easily.

The golden tip will get a free beer. Lets hope you live nearby.









Thanks!


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It might be that their lighting may be the reason you're seeing it differently IRL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Photoshop is more likely haha.
I am really disapointed though. I have seen some pictures where the pastel looks really good so maybe it is just a bad batch or something. I am using primochill advanced LRT aswell if that matters.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Questions about 4k monitor Vs Tv , Help Me here

TCO


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Photoshop is more likely haha.
> I am really disapointed though. I have seen some pictures where the pastel looks really good so maybe it is just a bad batch or something. I am using primochill advanced LRT aswell if that matters.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


I have not use Pastel Orange before but I have read a couple complains about orange in this thread. The coolant is pH sensitive & the orange have narrow pH range. Basically if the pH out of the range, the color may change a little bit. Your picture is overexposed, so can't really tell. Based on the coolant in the tube (far left) connected to the radiator, the color look ok to me.


----------



## Benjiw

Hi guys, just a quick question but I wanted some opinions on why my tubing keeps going green.

I'm running De-Ionized water with Pulse modding BioClear which contains Benzalkonium Chloride as after reading the EK blog copper sulfate doesn't mix well with nickel plating. My loop consists of the following:-

Nickel EK AMD LTX CPU block
Copper base and Nickel top Heatkiller NSB Rev 3.0
Copper and Nickel Koolance VRM block
My tubing is Advanced LRT from primoflex so I thought I would not get problems like greening or it going cloudy when I put it in hot water to soften the tubing when building my loop. I'm very confused as to why it has turned green, I flushed my loop several times including rads with water and De-Ionized but still getting issues, the tubing doesn't change colour on the fittings, only where it is in contact with coolant. Any Ideas?


----------



## Ceadderman

I think putting it in hot water is the answer to your issue. Advanced LRT does contain plasticizer. Heat is known to help it leech into the loop. So long story short...

...you likely helped the process along by using boiling water to soften the tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think putting it in hot water is the answer to your issue. Advanced LRT does contain plasticizer. Heat is known to help it leech into the loop. So long story short...
> 
> ...you likely helped the process along by using boiling water to soften the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well that explains everything, I am cooling an AMD FX8350 so the coolant gets hot, it's obviously broken down the LRT coating and discoloured the tubing, my temps have gone up considerably too almost like I'm still using just a 240mm rad rather than a 240 with a 360. *sigh* Looks like I'll need to strip my loop and get cleaning, I'll convert to hardline too because I'm a bit sick of this already.

Thanks for the advice Ceadder!

+rep


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think putting it in hot water is the answer to your issue. Advanced LRT does contain plasticizer. Heat is known to help it leech into the loop. So long story short...
> 
> ...you likely helped the process along by using boiling water to soften the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that explains everything, I am cooling an AMD FX8350 so the coolant gets hot, it's obviously broken down the LRT coating and discoloured the tubing, my temps have gone up considerably too almost like I'm still using just a 240mm rad rather than a 240 with a 360. *sigh* Looks like I'll need to strip my loop and get cleaning, I'll convert to hardline too because I'm a bit sick of this already.
> 
> Thanks for the advice Ceadder!
> 
> +rep
Click to expand...

Clear tubing normally goes green after a while anyway.

Mick has some new clear tube apparently....if you dont want to give up on soft tube.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Clear tubing normally goes green after a while anyway.
> 
> Mick has some new clear tube apparently....if you dont want to give up on soft tube.


Mayhems? It would be nice to buy from them but glass is out of my budget for now.







No I kinda want to give hardline the go now, tired of my tubing going weird it's less than 6months old. My temps have gone up quite a bit so its time to strip it all out and give it a good cleaning.


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Photoshop is more likely haha.
> I am really disapointed though. I have seen some pictures where the pastel looks really good so maybe it is just a bad batch or something. I am using primochill advanced LRT aswell if that matters.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I have not use Pastel Orange before but I have read a couple complains about orange in this thread. The coolant is pH sensitive & the orange have narrow pH range. Basically if the pH out of the range, the color may change a little bit. Your picture is overexposed, so can't really tell. Based on the coolant in the tube (far left) connected to the radiator, the color look ok to me.
Click to expand...

Yeah it actually looks more like the fluid in the res in person.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Mayhems? It would be nice to buy from them but glass is out of my budget for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I kinda want to give hardline the go now, tired of my tubing going weird it's less than 6months old. My temps have gone up quite a bit so its time to strip it all out and give it a good cleaning.


They actually have really nice new soft tubing, check it out: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/tubing/flexible-tubing/


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Clear tubing normally goes green after a while anyway.
> 
> Mick has some new clear tube apparently....if you dont want to give up on soft tube.
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems? It would be nice to buy from them but glass is out of my budget for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I kinda want to give hardline the go now, tired of my tubing going weird it's less than 6months old. My temps have gone up quite a bit so its time to strip it all out and give it a good cleaning.
Click to expand...

Not the glass tube. They also recently launch soft clear tube. 6 months too fast. You should clean especially radiators properly. I usually clean my loop once a year & the tube does look yellowing/greening a little but only if I look closely. It's not plasticizer but only discoloration which is normal with soft tube. I re-use the tubes because it's not really bad. I did changed some recently because it was stained by red dye. Two years total I think.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> They actually have really nice new soft tubing, check it out: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/tubing/flexible-tubing/


Yeah I know haha, but I'm fed up with the tubing going from clear to green so I want acrylic instead.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Not the glass tube. They also recently launch soft clear tube. 6 months too fast. You should clean especially radiators properly. I usually clean my loop once a year & the tube does look yellowing/greening a little but only if I look closely. It's not plasticizer but only discoloration which is normal with soft tube. I re-use the tubes because it's not really bad. I did changed some recently because it was stained by red dye. Two years total I think.


I know it needs cleaning but there no point until I've got a bit more money, when I have I'll buy mayhems blitz and use acrylic tubing.


----------



## snef




----------



## emsj86

Nice work snef. Do you or anyone else know of someone willing to make graphics for my Gpu backplates ?


----------



## snef

I think coldzero can do any graphic now but I think you need to buy the backplate


----------



## KShirza1

[BUILD LOG] Cs-X Project [Nothing to hide] - Caselabs S8S (X99, 980Ti, Watercooling) LEVEL=OCD


----------



## funfordcobra

Got bored and went ahead and installed the uv tubing and changed out barbed fittings for compression. The darksides show up better than any cold cathode or led I've ever bought!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good evening all... or is it morning where some of you live?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, as this is my favorite thread on the forum and probably (one of) the most active one I am posting here for some help from you enthusiasts once more.
> 
> Would you be so kind to read my thread here about cleaning my loop? I am looking for tips on how to clean the loop easily.
> 
> The golden tip will get a free beer. Lets hope you live nearby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Damn it...
Did it slipped by again?

*Ceadderman* you will probably know it...
Care to read my previous post about my thread on cleaning?


----------



## Idef1x

Work in progress.

I ditched the trusty Silverstone FT02 for a Hex Gear R40 since I was able to get a Rampage Gene X79 motherboard for my 3930k. I got myself a MSI 980 Ti Gaming 6G to replace my MSI 680 Lightning at the same time (plus a bucket load of other stuff)




I had to shift the pump 4mm to the right to fit the graphics card. Still a tight fit coming from my Silverstone case


----------



## sdmf74

Can Anyone tell me the distance from the inlet to the edge of the pump top? (bitspower dual top) please see pic....
Also what is the total length?


----------



## russ18uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Work in progress.
> 
> I ditched the trusty Silverstone FT02 for a Hex Gear R40 since I was able to get a Rampage Gene X79 motherboard for my 3930k. I got myself a MSI 980 Ti Gaming 6G to replace my MSI 680 Lightning at the same time (plus a bucket load of other stuff)
> 
> 
> ]


That case is the sexiest case I've ever seen. £199.99 though! Maybe Santa


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Work in progress.
> 
> I ditched the trusty Silverstone FT02 for a Hex Gear R40 since I was able to get a Rampage Gene X79 motherboard for my 3930k. I got myself a MSI 980 Ti Gaming 6G to replace my MSI 680 Lightning at the same time (plus a bucket load of other stuff)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to shift the pump 4mm to the right to fit the graphics card. Still a tight fit coming from my Silverstone case


fittings and tubing looks very symmetrical good job


----------



## Ramzinho

and here is a proper shot of project beast. i'll tidy up the cables and stuff later


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> and here is a proper shot of project beast. i'll tidy up the cables and stuff later
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Look Big Boy Ramz Finishing up something finally!









TCO


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> and here is a proper shot of project beast. i'll tidy up the cables and stuff later


That looks amazing. Whats going on with the SSD on the right?

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> and here is a proper shot of project beast. i'll tidy up the cables and stuff later


You did a great job matching the color in the fluid. Nice build all around.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good evening all... or is it morning where some of you live?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, as this is my favorite thread on the forum and probably (one of) the most active one I am posting here for some help from you enthusiasts once more.
> 
> Would you be so kind to read my thread here about cleaning my loop? I am looking for tips on how to clean the loop easily.
> 
> The golden tip will get a free beer. Lets hope you live nearby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn it...
> Did it slipped by again?
> 
> *Ceadderman* you will probably know it...
> Care to read my previous post about my thread on cleaning?
Click to expand...

Hot water and effort. Just flush the components with hot water,the flux is water soluble. Acids are not required although people still recommend them,I do not however.


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone know if I can orientate the EK Supremay EVO waterblock 180 degrees without causing any performance issues? I want to have the inlet on the right side and the outlet on the left..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can orientate the EK Supremay EVO waterblock 180 degrees without causing any performance issues? I want to have the inlet on the right side and the outlet on the left..


Yup.no problem with that


----------



## ali13245

Thanks!


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can orientate the EK Supremay EVO waterblock 180 degrees without causing any performance issues? I want to have the inlet on the right side and the outlet on the left..


Yes you can, it should perform exactly the samey as long as you use the recommended inlet-outlet ports.

*Edit*: Nevermind,







got ninja'd by BNegative


----------



## Dalchi Frusche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> A quick phone shot of my freshly built first loop. Really not happy how pale the orange is. Realise now that the runs would look better if the top rad was the other way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


Agree on 180'ing the rad. Hindsight has always been 20/20 lol. Great work though.


----------



## snef

light setup in Green Karnage II: The Sequel


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> light setup in Green Karnage II: The Sequel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats insane. How did you pull that off?

TCO


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Ok how to get one state-side


I know Newegg licenses some Jonsbo cases and sells them under the Rosewill brand over here in the states. Do some digging and the W2 might show up somewhere.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thats insane. How did you pull that off?
> 
> TCO


Thanks

use a latching switch (not momentary like power button)

put + and - on input of the switch

use - ouput to all led strips (UV and White)

"+ on" to UV led and "+ off" to white led

I se a second switch to power off and on all led, that's why I have 3 button on front


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> That looks amazing. Whats going on with the SSD on the right?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


the sata cable is too tough. everytime i try to seat the SSD properly it flips out. this is my only complaint about the EVGA 850 GS psu. cables are really so tough to control. other than that. it's a perfect psu. i will try doing better job with it tomorrow.


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> That looks amazing. Whats going on with the SSD on the right?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> the sata cable is too tough. everytime i try to seat the SSD properly it flips out. this is my only complaint about the EVGA 850 GS psu. cables are really so tough to control. other than that. it's a perfect psu. i will try doing better job with it tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Ahh I know what you mean. I hate when you have to use the 1st and 3rd sata on one lead because the spacing is JUST off lol.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## Domler

Just picked up 5 rods of mayhems glass tubing from performance pcs. First for sale sighting I have seen state side. I should have it Monday. Anybody played with it yet? How is it.


----------



## ali13245

I ordered an EK X Res140 pump/res combo, and I wanted to know if I could use a 3/16" drillbit to mount the bracket to my case?

here is the mounting bracket that comes with it: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3


----------



## Valgaur

Hello again everyone.

I Would love some recommendations of some radiators - brands/ thickness and such - even fans would be amazing along with them! I will be using a 360mm in the front and a 240mm in the top. Top radiator will be push out of the case only, front will be ether push through into case, or push pull.

I have a Corsair air 540 case that I will be building in (black case)


I will be using the EVGA x99 Classified motherboard, below is the waterblock I plan to use. Any thoughts or if anyone has used or heard anything on them fill me on on it!
http://www.modders-inc.com/bitspower-thor-eix99-full-cover-water-block-evga-x99-classifiedftw/

Like I mentioned before I'll be using dual Asus 780Ti's I plan on have a see through acrylic sli block with these as well. I'm thinking hard tubing but am not quite sure, I would love to do my first watercooling build with it. I do wonder where I would put a drain in this system though... Thoughts?

I appreciate any thoughts or comments. I really want to do a watercooled build, but I want to make sure I do it right, hence coming to you guys


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> You did a great job matching the color in the fluid. Nice build all around.


is that hard acrylic tubing? I'm working on my 1st WC build and really like tubing that's in a specific place/bend as apposed to just willy nilly in there. Any guides you know of on doing it and how to bend it?

Also, do those 90 degree fittings decrease the flow any?


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> is that hard acrylic tubing? I'm working on my 1st WC build and really like tubing that's in a specific place/bend as apposed to just willy nilly in there. Any guides you know of on doing it and how to bend it?


Acryllic looks great, can just be a pain. Don't let that fool you, my first was using acryllic









Here's BNEG's great guide that helped me









Edit:



This video also helped if you like a visual as well
I also used the monsoon mandrel kit which is very helpful


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello again everyone.
> 
> I Would love some recommendations of some radiators - brands/ thickness and such - even fans would be amazing along with them! I will be using a 360mm in the front and a 240mm in the top. Top radiator will be push out of the case only, front will be ether push through into case, or push pull.
> 
> I have a Corsair air 540 case that I will be building in (black case)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be using the EVGA x99 Classified motherboard, below is the waterblock I plan to use. Any thoughts or if anyone has used or heard anything on them fill me on on it!
> http://www.modders-inc.com/bitspower-thor-eix99-full-cover-water-block-evga-x99-classifiedftw/
> 
> Like I mentioned before I'll be using dual Asus 780Ti's I plan on have a see through acrylic sli block with these as well. I'm thinking hard tubing but am not quite sure, I would love to do my first watercooling build with it. I do wonder where I would put a drain in this system though... Thoughts?
> 
> I appreciate any thoughts or comments. I really want to do a watercooled build, but I want to make sure I do it right, hence coming to you guys


Check out the 540 Owners Club, there are tons of picks there.

I'm running a pair of 280 xflow 30mm rads by hardware labs with push pull fans, but the push fans are outside the case and I've removed the grills. Most builders are putting a 360 in the front and a 240 up top and that should be plenty for what you wanna cool. The rad thickness varies depending on your preference for fans. You can fit fans under the front grill on the front, but not the top grill.

The pump and res can fit in the PSU compartment. The most popular way is a short pump rad combo mounted to the back grill above the SSD cage, or a taller res if you remove the cage. Some people have even squeezed em in by the video cards on the main side. I put mine on the back for ease of draining and filling.

As for blocks, tubes, pumps, and res you will have to do some research. I'm using EK blocks and pump/rad combo, Primochill tubing, and bitspower fittings.

Here's my build, plus a few more I grabbed from the Owners Club


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I ordered an EK X Res140 pump/res combo, and I wanted to know if I could use a 3/16" drillbit to mount the bracket to my case?
> 
> here is the mounting bracket that comes with it: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3


I am not sure but I think that is a bit on the small side (I am Dutch, and I always have a hard time with " sizes. Sure you can make a bigger hole by moving the drillbit a bit









I have the same top/res combo btw. I can advice you to use some noise isolation material between the bracket and the case though. Mine is a lot quieter now.
Used this stuff:



Then again you can use any rubber like stuff, as long as it absorbs decent amounts of vibration.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Check out the 540 Owners Club, there are tons of picks there.
> 
> I'm running a pair of 280 xflow 30mm rads by hardware labs with push pull fans, but the push fans are outside the case and I've removed the grills. Most builders are putting a 360 in the front and a 240 up top and that should be plenty for what you wanna cool. The rad thickness varies depending on your preference for fans. You can fit fans under the front grill on the front, but not the top grill.
> 
> The pump and res can fit in the PSU compartment. The most popular way is a short pump rad combo mounted to the back grill above the SSD cage, or a taller res if you remove the cage. Some people have even squeezed em in by the video cards on the main side. I put mine on the back for ease of draining and filling.
> 
> As for blocks, tubes, pumps, and res you will have to do some research. I'm using EK blocks and pump/rad combo, Primochill tubing, and bitspower fittings.
> 
> Here's my build, plus a few more I grabbed from the Owners Club
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you very much!

I've actually owned this case for over a year, and still can't use it currently. SR-2 motherboard is a little to big to fit in the little guy.

I think I might do one of those res pump combos and sit it in front of the gpu's sli connectors like the one you provided. Now it's just finding the blocks and checking everything I suppose.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hot water and effort. Just flush the components with hot water,the flux is water soluble. Acids are not required although people still recommend them,I do not however.


Thanks for the answer.

Should I put warm (40c?) water in my res and run that for a couple of minutes or something?
I am kinda scared to take my gpu out and flush the block by having it attached to my kitchen water tap. I mean, still having the block mounted on the card.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Acryllic looks great, can just be a pain. Don't let that fool you, my first was using acryllic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's BNEG's great guide that helped me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> 
> This video also helped if you like a visual as well
> I also used the monsoon mandrel kit which is very helpful


That's awesome. I just watched all of their videos. Can't seem to find that kit anywhere but frozenpcu. Are they back in business? Last I heard they were out and not taking orders.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hot water and effort. Just flush the components with hot water,the flux is water soluble. Acids are not required although people still recommend them,I do not however.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the answer.
> 
> Should I put warm (40c?) water in my res and run that for a couple of minutes or something?
> I am kinda scared to take my gpu out and flush the block by having it attached to my kitchen water tap. I mean, still having the block mounted on the card.
Click to expand...

I think BNEG suggestion is with your loop tear down & clean the blocks/radiators individually. Since you don't want to wasted the Fujipoly pads, probably good idea to flush the gpu block in the loop. I have flushed my loop without tear down before & it was very time consuming. Better tear down to clean the blocks/radiators properly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hot water and effort. Just flush the components with hot water,the flux is water soluble. Acids are not required although people still recommend them,I do not however.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the answer.
> 
> Should I put warm (40c?) water in my res and run that for a couple of minutes or something?
> I am kinda scared to take my gpu out and flush the block by having it attached to my kitchen water tap. I mean, still having the block mounted on the card.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think BNEG suggestion is with your loop tear down & clean the blocks/radiators individually. Since you don't want to wasted the Fujipoly pads, probably good idea to flush the gpu block in the loop. I have flushed my loop without tear down before & it was very time consuming. Better tear down to clean the blocks/radiators properly.
Click to expand...

Exactly this,blocks are not the real concern,the rads are however.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly this,blocks are not the real concern,the rads are however.


Ok, cool.
No problem then. I will leave the block on my gpu and flush it with tubing atached to kitchen water tap. Acetal tops can handly pretty warm water, right? Open cpu block to see if it needs cleaning...
And the rad. Will just fill them with hot/warm distilled water and vinegar mixture. Shake lake a boss, let it sit there for 30 minutes? And then repeat if needed.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> That's awesome. I just watched all of their videos. Can't seem to find that kit anywhere but frozenpcu. Are they back in business? Last I heard they were out and not taking orders.


I got mine from performance pcs:
here's 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm)
here's 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm)


----------



## Ceadderman

Same. I have the 2nd one but in the Pro TB kit. When I finally do my girls systems will be getting the 1st one to fill in my bending toolbox.









I may end up doing my brothers when I get him the Predator for Xmas. Use Blue hardline and blue EK hardliners fittings if I can so he can see into it to let me know if he needs Moar coolant. Of course I will need to install a drain/fill port to complete that AIO to make it worth the effort. Likely at the Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dave6531

Corrected need to order one next pay check


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes. You will have to apply a single layer of painters tape to the cutting box due to play between the tube and the box. But yes you can. The mandrels work just fine without tape however.









~Ceadder


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Acetal tops can handly pretty warm water, right?


Yes, the acetal tops can handle the normal range of warm to hot household water fine.
From Dupont Acetal Sheets:

Maximum Servicing Temperature, Intermittent °F 300
Maximum Servicing Temperature, Long Term °F 185
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Open cpu block to see if it needs cleaning... And the rad. Will just fill them with hot/warm distilled water and vinegar mixture. Shake lake a boss, let it sit there for 30 minutes? And then repeat if needed.


No experience here with vinegar and water solution and cleaning radiators, though others recommend it. Your radiators may not be EK branded, but this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1570002/cleaning-radiators

Let's add to the confusion http://www.overclock.net/t/1575093/having-problems-getting-new-radiators-clean









I always flush a radiator with distilled water prior to initial use, but have not had an issue beyond finding some particles initially. During radiator use, filters are always in place and the fins are blown off frequently, every few weeks-ish. Even with spit-fin and high FPI count radiators, dust clogging/choking has not been a problem.


----------



## VeritronX

I got my new res in, ended up getting the EK one instead of the xspc because that was out of stock. Gotta say, the EK one is built and designed way better than the bitspower one, and even includes a couple of g1/4 extensions too. Also not leaking is a plus, though there wasn't enough threading for me to add the internal tube from the bitspower res to it unfortunately.

Here is a pic of the build atm, half assembled and leak testing with just demineralised water. I really need to get or borrow an actual camera, the phone with flash can only go so far and the green tubing looks way better IRL.



I also ran into a drainage problem where the water doesn't want to go backwards through the pump, so I added a second drainage point from the other outlet port.


----------



## erso44

is it possible to use rads without fans?

__

erso44


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> is it possible to use rads without fans?
> 
> __
> 
> erso44


Yes just not nearly as efficient. "Passive Cooling" I believe is what they call it.

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> is it possible to use rads without fans?
> 
> __
> 
> erso44


Yes

Probably only enough for web browsing video playback though. It really comes down to rad space and components then.


----------



## erso44

Water can´t get hotter than chip temperature, right?


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yes
> 
> Probably only enough for web browsing video playback though. It really comes down to rad space and components then.


FWIW I had a Mora 9x140 radiator. Turned the fans off. It was mounted horizontally for maximum passive airflow. After 2 hours coolants had risen 20C even with an idling CPU (overclocked 3930K). Nothing else but CPU and D5 Pumps on that loop. Watercool claim that the mora radiator is good for quite a bit of power passively but in my experience I would not try it. You're always going to need some airflow, even if it's occasional. Below 500 RPM you still get some airflow but the fans are basically silent. Most people who have tried it and claimed that it works haven't let the system heat up for long enough IMO.


----------



## VSG

What King Iguana said. Keep fans on at 500-800 RPM on that MoRa and let it be. It gets you very little extra if you ramp up fan speed anyway.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> FWIW I had a Mora 9x140 radiator. Turned the fans off. It was mounted horizontally for maximum passive airflow. After 2 hours coolants had risen 20C even with an idling CPU (overclocked 3930K). Nothing else but CPU and D5 Pumps on that loop. Watercool claim that the mora radiator is good for quite a bit of power passively but in my experience I would not try it. You're always going to need some airflow, even if it's occasional. Below 500 RPM you still get some airflow but the fans are basically silent. Most people who have tried it and claimed that it works haven't let the system heat up for long enough IMO.


I personally had my rig going for an hour with fans turned off but pump speed fairly high (3500/4000rpm mcp35x) and while it did rise the temperature did plateau. It might be interesting to setup a fan profile that has the fans turned off until a certain temp amd then kick on.

Definitely doable but not recommended. Unless of course you have low wattage hardware. I really think it might work depending on your hardware.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yes
> 
> Probably only enough for web browsing video playback though. It really comes down to rad space and components then.
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW I had a Mora 9x140 radiator. Turned the fans off. It was mounted horizontally for maximum passive airflow. After 2 hours coolants had risen 20C even with an idling CPU (overclocked 3930K). Nothing else but CPU and D5 Pumps on that loop. Watercool claim that the mora radiator is good for quite a bit of power passively but in my experience I would not try it. You're always going to need some airflow, even if it's occasional. Below 500 RPM you still get some airflow but the fans are basically silent. *Most people who have tried it and claimed that it works haven't let the system heat up for long enough IMO.*
Click to expand...

Yup...

Passive requires so much rad its not realistic,as mentioned above,even slow fans are significantly better than none....

In other news,UPS can die in a fire....


















Apologies for the SAAAARF LAAANDAAAN accent.....


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Georgey123 View Post
> 
> Is there a date at all for the Hardware Labs SR2 multiports to go on sale, feels like the have been teased for ages?
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post
> 
> OK, so the info I got back is that the SR2 MP rads are already shipping to PPC and WCUK with other selected EU retailers to commence next week.
> It's nothing concrete, but it's more than what we had before thumb.gif
> 
> On 9/24/2015 11:50 AM, Questors wrote:
> Hello,
> As advised by Customer Service on 9-15-2015, I am checking back with PPCS regarding pricing and availability of Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 MP (new version) 360 & 480 radiators?
> 
> On 9/24/2015 12:28 PM, Customer Service wrote:
> > Hi we should get these middle next week. Same prices as the old ones (except not on sale)
> >
> > Thanks and please check back.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Customer Service










There here! http://www.performance-pcs.com/latest/brand--hardware-labs/color--white--black/radiator-thickness--60mm/?limit=30

They are available in dark chocolate flavor!










They are also available in vanilla!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Water can´t get hotter than chip temperature, right?


if that happens something is seriously wrong with your setup. water is the catalyst removing heat from your blocks to your rad eventually to air. so no if that happens u got it wrong.


----------



## VeritronX

Posting things with UPS seems risky.. I've never had startrack damage anything here in aus.. though they have sat on their arse a few times for no apparent reason.

On the topic of passive rads, do you have an aircon or something to stop the room heating up? As long as it's quiet enough to not be noticed over that at load I don't see why having fans would be a problem.. plus you could always use a controller that will turn them off below a certain temp, a poweradjust 2 ultra with temp sensor maybe?


----------



## korruptedkaos

OMG B! your being pretty cool about it.

I would be raging like a monkey on steroids!

to of done that kind of damage they must of flung it at least 3 foot in the air.

how stupid are they? that thing must of weighed a fair bit as well & you think they would have some common sense.

good luck in salvaging what you can & let us know the damage report


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup...
> 
> Passive requires so much rad its not realistic,as mentioned above,even slow fans are significantly better than none....
> 
> In other news,UPS can die in a fire....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the SAAAARF LAAANDAAAN accent.....


I am sorry to see and hear this. No carrier is perfect, but I actually practice avoiding UPS because of one-to-many incidents like you experienced here. The worse being the ruination of a brand new PC built for a family member as a collective family gift to him. Even though insurance was purchased, UPS would NOT PAY. They did the same to me at a machine shop where I was warehouse and product manager. They broke open a box, their driver signed the complaint form as a witness to the deliver status. When the UPS rep came to our shop to settle the claim, he told us UPS will not pay and uttered some garbage he knew was nonsense. At the local hub I saw boxes of Dell Computers & monitors being moved from truck to truck, the boxes were flying through the air out of the back to the trucks onto the conveyor. Just say NO to UPS!


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup...
> 
> Passive requires so much rad its not realistic,as mentioned above,even slow fans are significantly better than none....
> 
> In other news,UPS can die in a fire....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the SAAAARF LAAANDAAAN accent.....


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> FWIW I had a Mora 9x140 radiator. Turned the fans off. It was mounted horizontally for maximum passive airflow. After 2 hours coolants had risen 20C even with an idling CPU (overclocked 3930K). Nothing else but CPU and D5 Pumps on that loop. Watercool claim that the mora radiator is good for quite a bit of power passively but in my experience I would not try it. You're always going to need some airflow, even if it's occasional. Below 500 RPM you still get some airflow but the fans are basically silent. Most people who have tried it and claimed that it works haven't let the system heat up for long enough IMO.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup...
> 
> Passive requires so much rad its not realistic,as mentioned above,even slow fans are significantly better than none....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*


There you go, 2 individuals with tons more experience than I say its not viable. SO the answer to your original question should have been no. sorry.









On a side note, started playing with the camera for some final shots of my build. (Final shots so be done in a couple of days)


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup...
> 
> Passive requires so much rad its not realistic,as mentioned above,even slow fans are significantly better than none....
> 
> In other news,UPS can die in a fire....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the SAAAARF LAAANDAAAN accent.....


Argh, that is just brutal. I feel sorry for you. I hope they get to pay for that.

I just (sort of) finished my new R40, and I would be devastated, even though it is not in the same league as yours.


----------



## Domler

@B NEGATIVE
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! At first, I thought it was a bad joke. It took a minute. I would have total lost my *****. To quote lord of the rings, "and they shall pay for it with there lives!" My heart bleeds man.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I think BNEG suggestion is with your loop tear down & clean the blocks/radiators individually. Since you don't want to wasted the Fujipoly pads, probably good idea to flush the gpu block in the loop. I have flushed my loop without tear down before & it was very time consuming. Better tear down to clean the blocks/radiators properly.


This is the 2nd time I've seen mention of Fujipoly. Are they that good? Should I order them for my build I am working on. Was debating on whether I should use after market or the TIM and stuff that comes with EK stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I got my new res in, ended up getting the EK one instead of the xspc because that was out of stock. Gotta say, the EK one is built and designed way better than the bitspower one, and even includes a couple of g1/4 extensions too. Also not leaking is a plus, though there wasn't enough threading for me to add the internal tube from the bitspower res to it unfortunately.
> 
> Here is a pic of the build atm, half assembled and leak testing with just demineralised water. I really need to get or borrow an actual camera, the phone with flash can only go so far and the green tubing looks way better IRL.
> 
> 
> 
> I also ran into a drainage problem where the water doesn't want to go backwards through the pump, so I added a second drainage point from the other outlet port.


Is that a fractual S case? I'm finishing the components for a build in one. Debating on 2 rads or 1 from EK for my CPU and 295x2. What do you think?


----------



## Valgaur

Hello again!









What kind of coolants are people recommending? Are there certain ones that are bad for blocks, flow and temps? Like the Mayhems Aurora, are pastels okay?


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, my pump is kinda loud, it sounds like a noctua fan ramped up at 100% but a pit more high- pitched. it has 2 molex connectors and nothing else, is there any way i can quiet it down?


----------



## Domler

What kinda pump is it?


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of coolants are people recommending? Are there certain ones that are bad for blocks, flow and temps? Like the Mayhems Aurora, are pastels okay?


I feel mayhems is the best. The diffence in pastel temps is only a couple degrees. As long as the loop is CLEANED, the color option as awesome. Guys on here have made really cool colors useing pastel and mayhems dye. I beleave EK is mayhems oem.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well JAC survived the 1300 mile road trip and 2.5hr boat/ferry ride from Atlanta to Nantucket
weather has been great so thought I would snap a shot or two while I was unloading it



Well weather was great until a few days ago I should say lol


----------



## Masterstroke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I beleave EK is mayhems oem.


Pretty sure it's the other way around.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masterstroke*
> 
> Pretty sure it's the other way around.


Facepalm. Mayhems makes fluid for ek. Long work day.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Is that a fractual S case? I'm finishing the components for a build in one. Debating on 2 rads or 1 from EK for my CPU and 295x2. What do you think?


Definitely go with at least two rads, you're looking at 600w of heat for those components even at stock.. I'd even go as far as to say you might want a different case that can fit more rads if you want to cool that with less than 1200rpm fans. And yes, it is the define S, with a 30mm thick 280mm rad in the front and a 34mm thick 360mm rad in the top.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Definitely go with at least two rads, you're looking at 600w of heat for those components even at stock.. I'd even go as far as to say you might want a different case that can fit more rads if you want to cool that with less than 1200rpm fans. And yes, it is the define S, with a 30mm thick 280mm rad in the front and a 34mm thick 360mm rad in the top.


Good to know. I already bought everything. I just need the memory, PSU and the WC stuff. My plan is to buy the EK 360 kit and add on a GPU block/backplate and then possibly the 2nd rad for the front of the case. Sounds like the 2nd rad is a good idea. I was also debating the push pull on the fans. You think that helps or no? I've seen both arguments. I'm also debating on hard acrylic tubing because it looks sexy but then I'd have to individually buy everything and it get more expensive.

Also, are you pushing both rads out of the case? If so are you using the rear fan as an intake? Are you pulling in the front and pushing out the top?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I feel mayhems is the best. The diffence in pastel temps is only a couple degrees. As long as the loop is CLEANED, the color option as awesome. Guys on here have made really cool colors useing pastel and mayhems dye. I beleave EK is mayhems oem.


I'm thinking either the Pastels or the aurora. How often is the loop cleaning recommended with the pastels and such.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, my pump is kinda loud, it sounds like a noctua fan ramped up at 100% but a pit more high- pitched. it has 2 molex connectors and nothing else, is there any way i can quiet it down?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> What kinda pump is it?


Its a Laing DDC 2T.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Good to know. I already bought everything. I just need the memory, PSU and the WC stuff. My plan is to buy the EK 360 kit and add on a GPU block/backplate and then possibly the 2nd rad for the front of the case. Sounds like the 2nd rad is a good idea. I was also debating the push pull on the fans. You think that helps or no? I've seen both arguments. I'm also debating on hard acrylic tubing because it looks sexy but then I'd have to individually buy everything and it get more expensive.
> 
> Also, are you pushing both rads out of the case? If so are you using the rear fan as an intake? Are you pulling in the front and pushing out the top?


Buying the Ek kit and adding to it sounds like a solid plan, definately go for the second rad.. also with the PSU, you need to do some research on that because the 295X2 actually pulls more power than the spec for the 8pin cables allows for, you need to get one that won't trip the over current and switch off from that. To be fair the psu is supposed to trip when you do that, it's just the 295X2 does it by design which is slightly concerning and makes psu research critical.

As for push/pull, having two sets of fans only really helps to overcome restriction.. it's not really blowing more air, it's just blowing the air more forcefully. In my case it helps on the front rad because it's a really high fin density rad, and I'm also pulling air through the front filter.

The fans in my setup are bottom 140, front 2x140 (x2) and 120 all intake through filters, top 3x120 and rear 140 as exhaust. I have the bottom 140 and front 120, as well as the back 140 controlled seperately from the fans on the rads, so when the wc fans are at low speed I have fairly positive pressure in the case that is filtered so it should keep dust out.. when the wc fans ramp up it comes closer to equal but should still stay slightly positive.

If you do end up running two rads with front intake and top exhaust try to make the warmer water enter the top rad before the front one, you will get slightly better cooling because there's more difference between the water temp and the air going into the rad that way.. Having intake fans that don't get heated by a rad also helps.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Yes, the acetal tops can handle the normal range of warm to hot household water fine.
> From Dupont Acetal Sheets:
> 
> Maximum Servicing Temperature, Intermittent °F 300
> Maximum Servicing Temperature, Long Term °F 185
> No experience here with vinegar and water solution and cleaning radiators, though others recommend it. Your radiators may not be EK branded, but this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1570002/cleaning-radiators
> 
> Let's add to the confusion http://www.overclock.net/t/1575093/having-problems-getting-new-radiators-clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always flush a radiator with distilled water prior to initial use, but have not had an issue beyond finding some particles initially. During radiator use, filters are always in place and the fins are blown off frequently, every few weeks-ish. Even with spit-fin and high FPI count radiators, dust clogging/choking has not been a problem.


Wow, that's hot.









Me neither... just flushed it with distilled. And thanks for the tip but I made sure to properly flush my radiators I bought before using.
I've seen the gunk some contain, nu thanks... don't want that in my pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup...
> 
> Passive requires so much rad its not realistic,as mentioned above,even slow fans are significantly better than none....
> 
> In other news,UPS can die in a fire....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the SAAAARF LAAANDAAAN accent.....


Ahh damn it. Got to be kidding me.
Funny/weird thing is I just discovered that build 2 days ago and started reading it...

Why was it transported anyway? Missed that.

*Last thing guys.*
When I flush my loop with fresh distilled... isn't the stuff that is not (possibly) in my blocks gonna mess with the pump?


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Buying the Ek kit and adding to it sounds like a solid plan, definately go for the second rad.. also with the PSU, you need to do some research on that because the 295X2 actually pulls more power than the spec for the 8pin cables allows for, you need to get one that won't trip the over current and switch off from that. To be fair the psu is supposed to trip when you do that, it's just the 295X2 does it by design which is slightly concerning and makes psu research critical.
> 
> As for push/pull, having two sets of fans only really helps to overcome restriction.. it's not really blowing more air, it's just blowing the air more forcefully. In my case it helps on the front rad because it's a really high fin density rad, and I'm also pulling air through the front filter.
> 
> The fans in my setup are bottom 140, front 2x140 (x2) and 120 all intake through filters, top 3x120 and rear 140 as exhaust. I have the bottom 140 and front 120, as well as the back 140 controlled seperately from the fans on the rads, so when the wc fans are at low speed I have fairly positive pressure in the case that is filtered so it should keep dust out.. when the wc fans ramp up it comes closer to equal but should still stay slightly positive.
> 
> If you do end up running two rads with front intake and top exhaust try to make the warmer water enter the top rad before the front one, you will get slightly better cooling because there's more difference between the water temp and the air going into the rad that way.. Having intake fans that don't get heated by a rad also helps.


Thanks, what fan controller are you using?

I have my 295x2 in my current system. I'm using a Corsair tx750 without problems. I am going to upgrade the new system to a EVGA 1600, probably the g2 since I don't think I care about Eco fan.

Any good pics of 2 radiator loops and flow diagrams? google has brought me a plethora of crap.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Thanks, what fan controller are you using?
> 
> I have my 295x2 in my current system. I'm using a Corsair tx750 without problems. I am going to upgrade the new system to a EVGA 1600, probably the g2 since I don't think I care about Eco fan.
> 
> Any good pics of 2 radiator loops and flow diagrams? google has brought me a plethora of crap.


Rofl, isn't that a bit overkill?
Maybe I missed it, are you gonna add another 295x2?


----------



## toolmaker03

@MIGhunter
Any good pics of 2 radiator loops and flow diagrams? google has brought me a plethora of crap.

yes, I do, here have a look

http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Rofl, isn't that a bit overkill?
> Maybe I missed it, are you gonna add another 295x2?


I was going to but finding one has been a pain. Besides, the EVGA 1600 is only $300 so it's not much difference than anything else and it gives me the ability to expand my GPU later if I find one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> @MIGhunter
> Any good pics of 2 radiator loops and flow diagrams? google has brought me a plethora of crap.
> 
> yes, I do, here have a look
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm


Thanks


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masterstroke*
> 
> Pretty sure it's the other way around.


Nope. Mayhems makes fluid for EK and they just put a label on them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of coolants are people recommending? Are there certain ones that are bad for blocks, flow and temps? Like the Mayhems Aurora, are pastels okay?


mayhem has 3 types of coolants. Myahem X1 : very good coolant with all the additives you need and requires nothing but a flush to your rads and components. Pastel : amazing looking but requires adjustment of the pH level of your rads so it wont discolor later. this can be achieved by many ways if you have the time. and Aurora which i wont recommend and neither does mayhem for long time use the nano particles on this type are bigger than pastel and can get stuck on your blocks over time. so either go pastel or X1. if you want the plug and play and transparent go with the X1, if you like the matte finish look for your tubes go with the pastel. if you want colors i strongly suggest going pastel white and some non stain dye to achieve the color you desire.


----------



## erso44

okay, thank you guys for advice.

I thought I could stop my fans anyway running on low loads but I will let them run on very low speeds.
Glad to have discussed this...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> okay, thank you guys for advice.
> 
> I thought I could stop my fans anyway running on low loads but I will let them run on very low speeds.
> Glad to have discussed this...


Don't know which fans you have but running decent fans at very low speeds, <600 rpm, will mostly be in-audible anyway. IMO that is.
Even decoupled my pump makes more noise then my 3 Gentle Typhoon's at 600-800 rpm.


----------



## erso44

My fans are loud. Ultra Kaze 3000. Super static pressure fans. Ok, they´re server fans...I shouldn´t complain about noise haha.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I'm thinking either the Pastels or the aurora. How often is the loop cleaning recommended with the pastels and such.


They Last a Year. No Problem. I have a ton of pastel running in multiple Rigs. My Brother is due on the Parvum. Just a distilled flush. Then add the distilled I need and add pastel.

TCO


----------



## jlakai

New 140mm Noiseblocker E-loop


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> 
> 
> New 140mm Noiseblocker E-loop


Sexy


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Sexy


where can i get them with the white frames


----------



## Ceadderman

@Bneg...

That sucks bro.









Have you considered building padded hard cases to ship your creations? Origin does that and their systems are less than half as modded.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Bneg...
> 
> That sucks bro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you considered building padded hard cases to ship your creations? Origin does that and their systems are less than half as modded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think custom crates are in order...wouldnt of mattered either way if its been dropped tho


----------



## snef

@B NEGATIVE

that's really really sucks, always hate see horror shipping story like that specially for a great build like this one

I'm working on a client build right now and and this convinced me to use Pelican case,
yes expensive but I used it for more than one client
the client paid for it and if he return it to me, send back the money for the case (minus some fees if applicable, like custom and duty)


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Everyone here has way better looking rigs than I do but I'm getting better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Bneg...
> 
> That sucks bro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you considered building padded hard cases to ship your creations? Origin does that and their systems are less than half as modded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think custom crates are in order...wouldnt of mattered either way if its been dropped tho
Click to expand...

True. The damage can be minimalized so long as the GPUs aren't packed installed. Which I'm sure you don't do that but anything that can be protected should be.









~Ceadder


----------



## alltheGHz

I just installed my watercooling in my S5, and DAYM!









http://www.overclock.net/t/1563377/build-log-caselabs-s5-5820k-gtx


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> 
> 
> New 140mm Noiseblocker E-loop


About time we got to see something of these puppies!
they look great tho.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Everyone here has way better looking rigs than I do but I'm getting better.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks good to me. If it is what you want, then it's just right.


----------



## Rahldrac

Does anybody know anybody in EU who produce Custom size hardened glass? I'm originally from Norway, but live in Poland right now, And everybody I contact here refuse to do business in english, which makes things kinda hard


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I wish that when I clicked on this thread some epic music just would start to play, So I could throw up the Rock Sign and would acknowledge every epic person in here at the same time.

I am here. We have arrived. Lets Ponder.

Because we are all famous in our own way.




TCO


----------



## KShirza1

[BUILD LOG] Cs-X Project [Nothing to hide] - Caselabs S8S (X99, 980Ti, Watercooling) LEVEL=OCD


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Does anybody know anybody in EU who produce Custom size hardened glass? I'm originally from Norway, but live in Poland right now, And everybody I contact here refuse to do business in english, which makes things kinda hard


Contact @Rainmaker91 he is from morway as well and guess he can help cause he was sourcing some glass


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Contact @Rainmaker91 he is from morway as well and guess he can help cause he was sourcing some glass


Well, well now... offering my sevices without telling me first







At any rate I can't do much if he finds himself in Poland, I'm not exactly anywhere near competent in Polish (I know a few curse words but that's about it







). Hopefully we have some guys in here from Poland that will offer a helping hand...?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [BUILD LOG] Cs-X Project [Nothing to hide] - Caselabs S8S (X99, 980Ti, Watercooling) LEVEL=OCD


That's what I am talking about! Some CaseLabs luvin' and nice layout.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, my current pump (laing DDC 2T) is kinda loud, comparable to a fan on a pretty high speed, but a bit more high pitched.

1) is there any way to make it quieter?
2) what is a good dual bay res/pump combo that wont break the bank and is variable speed, or at least quiet?


----------



## KShirza1

Thanks Caselabs!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, my current pump (laing DDC 2T) is kinda loud, comparable to a fan on a pretty high speed, but a bit more high pitched.
> 
> 1) is there any way to make it quieter?
> 2) what is a good dual bay res/pump combo that wont break the bank and is variable speed, or at least quiet?


Something along the lines of Alphacool D5 bay reservoir and the XSPC d5 bay reservoir will be quieter. None of those are neceessarily cheap mind you since you need a new pump as well.

The D5 is a bit more quiet than the DDC pumps but if it's the pump noise itself that is annoying you then maybe something like decoupling the pump will help you, or maybe build a room around the pump with some sound dampening material (just remember to have a fan blowing air on it since the DDC pumps are air cooled). Noise travels really well thorghough metal (like a case) so maybe decoupling the pump will help a bit, if nothing else it's a cheap option to try before buying all new stuff.


----------



## alltheGHz

Decoupling the pump didn't help, the pump is just making this whirring sound that bugs me...


----------



## fast_fate

Review Up


----------



## Georgey123

Excellent fast_fate


----------



## Ceadderman

Love the beauty shots fate.









~Ceadder


----------



## roberta507

http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/r...100i/IMG_20140224_142231_zpsdcevpcm8.jpg.html
Just an old school Corsair H100i
Got it about 1 week before it was available to the public hence "old school"


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, my current pump (laing DDC 2T) is kinda loud, comparable to a fan on a pretty high speed, but a bit more high pitched.
> 
> 1) is there any way to make it quieter?
> 2) what is a good dual bay res/pump combo that wont break the bank and is variable speed, or at least quiet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Something along the lines of Alphacool D5 bay reservoir and the XSPC d5 bay reservoir will be quieter. None of those are neceessarily cheap mind you since you need a new pump as well.
> 
> The D5 is a bit more quiet than the DDC pumps but if it's the pump noise itself that is annoying you then maybe something like decoupling the pump will help you, or maybe build a room around the pump with some sound dampening material (just remember to have a fan blowing air on it since the DDC pumps are air cooled). Noise travels really well thorghough metal (like a case) so maybe decoupling the pump will help a bit, if nothing else it's a cheap option to try before buying all new stuff.


thanks, anyone else??? Please, the pump is driving me mad!!


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> thanks, anyone else??? Please, the pump is driving me mad!!


I'm using the EK D5 vario XRES. On setting 3 (~3300RPM) it is inaudible. I have to touch it to tell if it is running. Its the only one I've had experience with, so it's all I can recommend.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, my current pump (laing DDC 2T) is kinda loud, comparable to a fan on a pretty high speed, but a bit more high pitched.
> 
> 1) is there any way to make it quieter?
> 2) what is a good dual bay res/pump combo that wont break the bank and is variable speed, or at least quiet?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Something along the lines of Alphacool D5 bay reservoir and the XSPC d5 bay reservoir will be quieter. None of those are neceessarily cheap mind you since you need a new pump as well.
> 
> The D5 is a bit more quiet than the DDC pumps but if it's the pump noise itself that is annoying you then maybe something like decoupling the pump will help you, or maybe build a room around the pump with some sound dampening material (just remember to have a fan blowing air on it since the DDC pumps are air cooled). Noise travels really well thorghough metal (like a case) so maybe decoupling the pump will help a bit, if nothing else it's a cheap option to try before buying all new stuff.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thanks, anyone else??? Please, the pump is driving me mad!!
Click to expand...

Maybe opening up the pump & see what is going on.


----------



## rikkiepc

I have the same issue with the http://www.aquatuning.nl/waterkoeling/pompen/laing-ddc/ddc-pompen/17525/laing-ddc-pump-12v-ddc-1t-plus-pwm?c=4883
The sound is driving me crazy. It is decoupled btw. I got this http://www.aquatuning.nl/waterkoeling/pompen/pompentoebehoor/6988/aquacomputer-poweradjust-or-powerbooster-connection-cable-for-laing-ddc-pumps so I could hook it up to my Aquaero 6 to adjust the RPM but it's full on (100%) of full off. Anyone know the trick to adjust the RPM on this pump?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> I have the same issue with the http://www.aquatuning.nl/waterkoeling/pompen/laing-ddc/ddc-pompen/17525/laing-ddc-pump-12v-ddc-1t-plus-pwm?c=4883
> The sound is driving me crazy. It is decoupled btw. I got this http://www.aquatuning.nl/waterkoeling/pompen/pompentoebehoor/6988/aquacomputer-poweradjust-or-powerbooster-connection-cable-for-laing-ddc-pumps so I could hook it up to my Aquaero 6 to adjust the RPM but it's full on (100%) of full off. Anyone know the trick to adjust the RPM on this pump?


That cable prevents being able to control it via PWM, you just need to correctly configure the A6 channel you have the pump plugged up to as PWM, and set a controller for it in the controllers tab, start with a manual preset controller to establish that it's all working, then you can go from there.

Do not connect the pump's 4 pin connector to anything on the A6 but one of the 4 fan channels.

The PWM channels are for controlling LEDs and have a 12V output, whereas the PWM control for fans and pumps is based on 5V.

Darlene


----------



## Idef1x

It's a terrible low light shot, and I will try to get some glamour shot at some point.


----------



## Chopper1591

Ok.. so finally have the system up and running again after cleaning.

Something I noticed yesterday after viewing some photo's I made with the telephone of the build.... I had the inlet and outlet of the cpu block wrong all the time (like 6 months).







Weird thing is, the temps were actually pretty good. Hope I didn't put excess stress on the block by doing that. Anyway, sorted it out by just switching the inlet and outlet of the pump, as the pump is (almost) the highest point of the loop I only had to take half a liter or so of fluid out of the loop.

I had ordered a meter of new clear tubing to replace the white tubing, half the tubing was clear.
What do you think of the result?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









I almost scratched my head of trying to think of a way to rearrange the loop to use less tubing... but I keep bumping against the fact of the placement of the second rad. If I turn around the top rad I have to put the return tube from the front rad through the back of the case to the reservoir.

Funny thing is also that the radiators were practically clean, some very small particles came lose. The CPU block on the other hand had some gunk in it. Cleaned it with a soft toothbrush and some ketchup.









What did bother me though was the state of the clear tubing that was already in the build. Look here, what is it?

The top one is new, the one going in the case is the old one (6 months or so).

Looks like plasticizer. But how? I only used distilled (de-ionized), 2 drops of dead-water and Feser Corrosion blocker. Tubing is Primoflex Advanced LRT, I thought they improved it over the Pro LRT...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> It's a terrible low light shot, and I will try to get some glamour shot at some point.


Was considering this case quite seriously but there are two hang ups for me. Your build looks amazing and clean, of course.

Can you by any chance show how you have the PSU power cable hooked up and routed?

The only other thing is that I absolutely must have easy USB access to my system and modding that up to the front panel to look stock would be out of my realm, I'm afraid. Any suggestions for an easy way to accomplish that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What did bother me though was the state of the clear tubing that was already in the build. Look here, what is it?
> 
> The top one is new, the one going in the case is the old one (6 months or so).
> 
> Looks like plasticizer. But how? I only used distilled (de-ionized), 2 drops of dead-water and Feser Corrosion blocker. Tubing is Primoflex Advanced LRT, I thought they improved it over the Pro LRT...


Had the same experience exactly with Primochill LRT Advanced. Several times, actually--and went to acrylic eventually--problem solved.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*


That's the reason I stopped using clear tubing years ago and only use the colored tubing and just Distilled water..


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love the beauty shots fate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


A couple of the 140mm flavor also then


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> That's the reason I stopped using clear tubing years ago and only use the colored tubing and just Distilled water..


I just can't/won't believe it is always happening to clear tubing. I've read across the web of people using Advanced LRT tubing and not having an issue at all. Even after 2 years of usage....
Maybe I will contact Primochill to see what they think of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> A couple of the 140mm flavor also then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah damn.

Hardware Labs rad's are always pretty.








I like it.


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys, I recently ordered an EK Xres 140 res/pump combo , and it
Comes with this mount: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v2

I was wondering if anyone knows what drillbit I would need to mount this to my case? I was told that a 3/16" bit would work. Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. Doesn't just happen to clear tubing. I can vouch for that. I've only used white tubing and it popped up in my system within 6mos of use.

Advanced has had it happen too. wermad posted about his experience with PCALRT tubing in the Plasticizers thread.

It's heat that activates the stuff. +35c iirc.







which is why I am hardline and then Copper tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I just can't/won't believe it is always happening to clear tubing. I've read across the web of people using Advanced LRT tubing and not having an issue at all. Even after 2 years of usage....
> Maybe I will contact Primochill to see what they think of it.


I heard that Mayhem's new clear tubing works really well. Cheaper than LRT also.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. Doesn't just happen to clear tubing. I can vouch for that. I've only used white tubing and it popped up in my system within 6mos of use.
> 
> Advanced has had it happen too. wermad posted about his experience with PCALRT tubing in the Plasticizers thread.
> 
> It's heat that activates the stuff. +35c iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which is why I am hardline and then Copper tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm sure it happens to all tubing, but with the colored tubing you just can't see it and the colored UV tubing keeps its UV unlike UV coolant that loses it over time.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently ordered an EK Xres 140 res/pump combo , and it
> Comes with this mount: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v2
> 
> I was wondering if anyone knows what drillbit I would need to mount this to my case? I was told that a 3/16" bit would work. Can anyone confirm this?


I have it. Well, the res/top combo, still had an d5 laying around. It uses m4 bolts so I would say take one m4 screw to the story and buy a drillbit that matches the shaft. Simple enough, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. Doesn't just happen to clear tubing. I can vouch for that. I've only used white tubing and it popped up in my system within 6mos of use.
> 
> Advanced has had it happen too. wermad posted about his experience with PCALRT tubing in the Plasticizers thread.
> 
> It's heat that activates the stuff. +35c iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which is why I am hardline and then Copper tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sucks.

Out of curiosity I decided to cut a piece of the old white tubing so I could see the inside. Was still as good as new, nothing like the clear tubing. When I scratched my nail over it there was no stuff coming of what so ever. The white Advancert LRT was more then a year old FYI.

And about the temp. I am pretty sure I never ran it above 35c. Mostly the water is around 32-33c max. As we speak the water reads: 25.5c with all fans on lowest. That's probably around 3-4c Delta.

Yeah, I will probably switch to hard tubing sometime. I hate it to buy every fitting again though. And the tools to bend and all. But I do look forward to learning it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I heard that Mayhem's new clear tubing works really well. Cheaper than LRT also.


Thanks for the tip but I don't really want to switch everything AGAIN.

By the way:
I did send a support ticket to PrimoChill just now. Explaining my situation and asking if this is normal.

Also. How is it looking?

Before:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







After:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Only thing standing out is the PSU. Maybe I will just try to tear off the sticker. Damn you blue.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Was considering this case quite seriously but there are two hang ups for me. Your build looks amazing and clean, of course.
> 
> Can you by any chance show how you have the PSU power cable hooked up and routed?
> 
> The only other thing is that I absolutely must have easy USB access to my system and modding that up to the front panel to look stock would be out of my realm, I'm afraid. Any suggestions for an easy way to accomplish that?


I can try to snap a few pictures of it. The back is by no means clean at the moment, since I am using Corsairs sleeved cables, and they are miles longer than necessary. I have an ambition of making some custom cables at one point, since this build is close to my "dream build"









About the USB issue. I can more than manage using the USB connections at the motherboard IO plus my screen has a USB hub incorporated. If you need more USB devices I would suggest getting a USB hub. If you want to mod the case, I guess you can place it in the front near the power button, but I would personally not mod a 200£ powder coated case like that


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> I can try to snap a few pictures of it. The back is by no means clean at the moment, since I am using Corsairs sleeved cables, and they are miles longer than necessary. I have an ambition of making some custom cables at one point, since this build is close to my "dream build"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the USB issue. I can more than manage using the USB connections at the motherboard IO plus my screen has a USB hub incorporated. If you need more USB devices I would suggest getting a USB hub. If you want to mod the case, I guess you can place it in the front near the power button, but I would personally not mod a 200£ powder coated case like that


Care to make some more pictures?
I am curious to how your loop is build up. The picture a few pages back is by no means good to see.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently ordered an EK Xres 140 res/pump combo , and it
> Comes with this mount: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v2
> 
> I was wondering if anyone knows what drillbit I would need to mount this to my case? I was told that a 3/16" bit would work. Can anyone confirm this?


As was mentioned earller it uses M4 bolts to mount so you are best to use a drill bit slightly larger than 4mm. I used a 4.5 and it worked fine. A 3/16 is only slightly larger than 4.5mm. An 11/64 would be fine too.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> As was mentioned earller it uses M4 bolts to mount so you are best to use a drill bit slightly larger than 4mm. I used a 4.5 and it worked fine. A 3/16 is only slightly larger than 4.5mm


^^ This.

And if the hole is to large you can always use some rings. I pretty much always use rings anyway to be safe.










*On the side note.*
I keep trying to silence my D5 pump (Swiftech mcp-655). No matter what I do, it stays the loudest component in my setup. If I lower the speed to slightly below 2 it will get near silent but IMO that is just a tad to slow for a loop with 2 rads, a cpu and a gpu block.

I keep reading about people posting that their pump is silent on speed 5. I don't experience that at all.
Currently it is mounted to the case with the EK uni-holder. So it is mounted on rubber feet. And the holder itself is screwed to the case with some Lamptron Noise-Isolation strip between the holder and the case.

Anyway to silence it more? The sound is resonating through the case or something. The sound is louder when one sits farther away from the PC.
And since it is sitting in the living room it would be cool if it were quieter. A quiet PC was one of the reasons for me switching to water after all.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. Doesn't just happen to clear tubing. I can vouch for that. I've only used white tubing and it popped up in my system within 6mos of use.
> 
> Advanced has had it happen too. wermad posted about his experience with PCALRT tubing in the Plasticizers thread.
> 
> It's heat that activates the stuff. +35c iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which is why I am hardline and then Copper tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Do you have the link to wermad's post? I can only find one back 2012 which I'm pretty sure he is using the Pro LRT back then.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> ^^ This.
> 
> And if the hole is to large you can always use some rings. I pretty much always use rings anyway to be safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *On the side note.*
> I keep trying to silence my D5 pump (Swiftech mcp-655). No matter what I do, it stays the loudest component in my setup. If I lower the speed to slightly below 2 it will get near silent but IMO that is just a tad to slow for a loop with 2 rads, a cpu and a gpu block.
> 
> I keep reading about people posting that their pump is silent on speed 5. I don't experience that at all.
> Currently it is mounted to the case with the EK uni-holder. So it is mounted on rubber feet. And the holder itself is screwed to the case with some Lamptron Noise-Isolation strip between the holder and the case.
> 
> Anyway to silence it more? The sound is resonating through the case or something. The sound is louder when one sits farther away from the PC.
> And since it is sitting in the living room it would be cool if it were quieter. A quiet PC was one of the reasons for me switching to water after all.


Yeah the rubber mounts on the EK pumps are good but if the holder is attached to something flimsy like the case wall there is still a lot of vibration transmitted. I found having the pump mounted to the motherboard tray/rear case wall was much louder than having it mounted to a radiator using the EK 120 pump mount. As I have it now it is very quiet at full speed but fully silent pumps at high power is a bit of a water cooling myth/exaggeration.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> That's the reason I stopped using clear tubing years ago and only use the colored tubing and just Distilled water..
> 
> 
> 
> I just can't/won't believe it is always happening to clear tubing. I've read across the web of people using Advanced LRT tubing and not having an issue at all. Even after 2 years of usage....
> Maybe I will contact Primochill to see what they think of it.
Click to expand...

So far you're the first person that I know reporting plasticizer problem with Primochill Advanced LRT. Considering how long you have run your loop, you should get a thin film of whitish/yellowish powder sticking on the internal tube wall, not clouding/hazing, unless you clean it before re-assembling the tube in the loop. I'm one of the people who is using the Adv LRT tube for two years without any problem. I did swapped a couple of tubes whenever I pull down my loop for cleaning but there's one or two tubes that still in the loop since day one. No plasticizer problem for me. Water temp always in mid 30s Celsius minimum.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> ^^ This.
> 
> And if the hole is to large you can always use some rings. I pretty much always use rings anyway to be safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *On the side note.*
> I keep trying to silence my D5 pump (Swiftech mcp-655). No matter what I do, it stays the loudest component in my setup. If I lower the speed to slightly below 2 it will get near silent but IMO that is just a tad to slow for a loop with 2 rads, a cpu and a gpu block.
> 
> I keep reading about people posting that their pump is silent on speed 5. I don't experience that at all.
> Currently it is mounted to the case with the EK uni-holder. So it is mounted on rubber feet. And the holder itself is screwed to the case with some Lamptron Noise-Isolation strip between the holder and the case.
> 
> Anyway to silence it more? The sound is resonating through the case or something. The sound is louder when one sits farther away from the PC.
> And since it is sitting in the living room it would be cool if it were quieter. A quiet PC was one of the reasons for me switching to water after all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah the rubber mounts on the EK pumps are good but if the holder is attached to something flimsy like the case wall there is still a lot of vibration transmitted. I found having the pump mounted to the motherboard tray/rear case wall was much louder than having it mounted to a radiator using the EK 120 pump mount. As I have it now it is very quiet at full speed but *fully silent pumps at high power is a bit of a water cooling myth/exaggeration.*
Click to expand...

Fully depends on the top and mounting. The D5 for Close Impact was dead silent it was fitting mounted on to the res,a substantial lump of mass, and remained so all the way to full power. The D5 in HeretEK was also silent and that was directly bolted to the chassis. I tend to find Bitspower tops are the quietest overall but my sample size is only 4.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang

Can anyone tell me if there's someting wrong with my cooling on this Rig?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fully depends on the top and mounting. The D5 for Close Impact was dead silent it was fitting mounted on to the res,a substantial lump of mass, and remained so all the way to full power. The D5 in HeretEK was also silent and that was directly bolted to the chassis. I tend to find Bitspower tops are the quietest overall but my sample size is only 4.


Yeah mine are all very very quiet when mounted correctly but none of my tops/pumps even when just dangling by tubing from my hand were truly zero noise. I could always hear something, and full speed is normally quieter than some of the mid speeds

It is irrelevant once its quieter than the hard drives but people sometimes get a bit hung up on silent vs effectively silent is all I meant.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Do you have the link to wermad's post? I can only find one back 2012 which I'm pretty sure he is using the Pro LRT back then.


I also found a post by someone on another forum who contacted PrimoChill about it.
They thought somehow he received Pro LRT instead of Advanced LRT.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah the rubber mounts on the EK pumps are good but if the holder is attached to something flimsy like the case wall there is still a lot of vibration transmitted. I found having the pump mounted to the motherboard tray/rear case wall was much louder than having it mounted to a radiator using the EK 120 pump mount. As I have it now it is very quiet at full speed but fully silent pumps at high power is a bit of a water cooling myth/exaggeration.


I hear you. Though I thought that by adding Lamptron Isolation strips it would absorb the vibrations.
Sadly I can't really mount it to the radiator. The Corsair 650D is not a small case but still too small.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> So far you're the first person that I know reporting plasticizer problem with Primochill Advanced LRT. Considering how long you have run your loop, you should get a thin film of whitish/yellowish powder sticking on the internal tube wall, not clouding/hazing, unless you clean it before re-assembling the tube in the loop. I'm one of the people who is using the Adv LRT tube for two years without any problem. I did swapped a couple of tubes whenever I pull down my loop for cleaning but there's one or two tubes that still in the loop since day one. No plasticizer problem for me. Water temp always in mid 30s Celsius minimum.


Yeah. Weird, right?
Sure, maybe when I have it running for 2 years it would get clouded a bit. But the tubing is like 7-8 months old.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> That's the reason I stopped using clear tubing years ago and only use the colored tubing and just Distilled water..


I took apart my loop maybe a month ago on my 750D. Was using Primochill advanced. Here it is apart. Ran the loop for a year.





Replaced the Tubing with the same: Primochill Advanced and good to go.

TCO


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Do you have the link to wermad's post? I can only find one back 2012 which I'm pretty sure he is using the Pro LRT back then.
> 
> 
> 
> I also found a post by someone on another forum who contacted PrimoChill about it.
> *They thought somehow he received Pro LRT instead of Advanced LRT.*
Click to expand...

Yeah, I remember back 2012-2013, that was the conclusion back then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> That's the reason I stopped using clear tubing years ago and only use the colored tubing and just Distilled water..
> 
> 
> 
> I took apart my loop maybe a month ago on my 750D. Was using Primochill advanced. Here it is apart. Ran the loop for a year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the Tubing with the same: Primochill Advanced and good to go.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Yup, my tubes pretty much looks like that.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yeah, I remember back 2012-2013, that was the conclusion back then.
> Yup, my tubes pretty much looks like that.


What did you replace them with?

TCO


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yeah, I remember back 2012-2013, that was the conclusion back then.
> Yup, my tubes pretty much looks like that.
> 
> 
> 
> What did you replace them with?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Replaced them with Advanced LRT too. Still have some left for next cleaning.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fully depends on the top and mounting. The D5 for Close Impact was dead silent it was fitting mounted on to the res,a substantial lump of mass, and remained so all the way to full power. The D5 in HeretEK was also silent and that was directly bolted to the chassis. I tend to find Bitspower tops are the quietest overall but my sample size is only 4.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah mine are all very very quiet when mounted correctly but none of my tops/pumps even when just dangling by tubing from my hand were truly zero noise. I could always hear something, and full speed is normally quieter than some of the mid speeds
> 
> It is irrelevant once its quieter than the hard drives but people sometimes get a bit hung up on silent vs effectively silent.


I find that also indeed. At full speed the pump makes less noise but the vibration sound is, together with speed 3, the loudest.

Tomorrow I will try to bolt it down differently. Will set it up like this: *bolt+ring>rubber ring>case>rubber ring>pump holder>ring+nut*.
Now the holder is isolated but the bolt is directly touching the case so that probably delivers a lot vibrations.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fully depends on the top and mounting. The D5 for Close Impact was dead silent it was fitting mounted on to the res,a substantial lump of mass, and remained so all the way to full power. The D5 in HeretEK was also silent and that was directly bolted to the chassis. I tend to find Bitspower tops are the quietest overall but my sample size is only 4.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah mine are all very very quiet when mounted correctly but none of my tops/pumps even when just dangling by tubing from my hand were truly zero noise. I could always hear something, and full speed is normally quieter than some of the mid speeds
> 
> It is irrelevant once its quieter than the hard drives but *people sometimes get a bit hung up on silent vs effectively silent.*
Click to expand...

Yep.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I find that also indeed. At full speed the pump makes less noise but the vibration sound is, together with speed 3, the loudest.
> 
> Tomorrow I will try to bolt it down differently. Will set it up like this: *bolt+ring>rubber ring>case>rubber ring>pump holder>ring+nut*.
> Now the holder is isolated but the bolt is directly touching the case so that probably delivers a lot vibrations.


I think you might find that you still get the lower frequency vibration that moves the case wall even with the rubber. Is mounting to the floor a possibilty? I just think the rear wall is normally the worst place because its normally thin guage and only attached in a few places by rivets instead of being a part of the main mass.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah mine are all very very quiet when mounted correctly but none of my tops/pumps even when just dangling by tubing from my hand were truly zero noise. I could always hear something, and full speed is normally quieter than some of the mid speeds
> 
> It is irrelevant once its quieter than the hard drives but people sometimes get a bit hung up on silent vs effectively silent.


I have only ssds in the case and a hdd in a usb enclosure next to the case, my d5 is the loudest component by far in the define s.. I think because the panels are a bit flimsy, the pump is hard mounted to a steel bracket which is attached to the 140mm fan on the bottom of the case.

I wish caselabs would make a case like the define s, I love the size and layout but there's a reason it's so cheap =/ I would pay twice the price for a define s made out of 2mm alu with a more scratch resistant window.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Replaced them with Advanced LRT too. Still have some left for next cleaning.


Excellent. I find that for clear tubing, Primochill Advanced LRT isn't so bad. 25ft for 25$ Is it? I've bought 50ft so far for the 750D. I think I bought another 25ft for my SMA8 to run in the lower compartment.









TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> As was mentioned earller it uses M4 bolts to mount so you are best to use a drill bit slightly larger than 4mm. I used a 4.5 and it worked fine. A 3/16 is only slightly larger than 4.5mm. An 11/64 would be fine too.


Thanks. So will a 3/16" bit work? it is 4.76mm


----------



## snef

Tubing done and leak test for 24 hours















and did a video of the filling process


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Thanks. So will a 3/16" bit work? it is 4.76mm


Yep of course, its still smaller than the washer and nut.


----------



## ali13245

Thanks again


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I think you might find that you still get the lower frequency vibration that moves the case wall even with the rubber. Is mounting to the floor a possibilty? I just think the rear wall is normally the worst place because its normally thin guage and only attached in a few places by rivets instead of being a part of the main mass.


Sadly there is no room in the case to mount in on the floor.
I had it on the floor when I build the loop for the first time, with a reservoir on the right side next to the motherboard. But then in came the r9 290 tri-x. That card is so long that the reservoir was in the way.

I know the back panel isn't the best place (or even is the worst) but I have very few options...
Maybe I can buy some decouplers and try to mount the top/res holder with it. Similar to what I used to mount the front radiator.

See what I mean:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Thanks again


Good luck with it.
And as always: measure twice, cut once.

Make some photo's of the process to make a small build logg. Always nice food for us people here.


----------



## ali13245

Yeah of course. I already have a build log in progress (link below). When the build is finished I will make sure to post some final shots of the build


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> I can try to snap a few pictures of it. The back is by no means clean at the moment, since I am using Corsairs sleeved cables, and they are miles longer than necessary. I have an ambition of making some custom cables at one point, since this build is close to my "dream build"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the USB issue. I can more than manage using the USB connections at the motherboard IO plus my screen has a USB hub incorporated. If you need more USB devices I would suggest getting a USB hub. If you want to mod the case, I guess you can place it in the front near the power button, but I would personally not mod a 200£ powder coated case like that


I might mod it if I thought I could pull it off. But your suggestion of a hub is duly noted. Kind of obvious but I hadn't considered that actually. My keyboard includes one. Anyway I'm still super curious about the power cable to the psuand how it gets routed into the case with the psu in that hanging position at the front. I've looked for pictures but haven't found any that showed that.


----------



## Domler

Package showed up at work today

And this is how it's shipped

After removing all the popcorn and bubble wrap we have

Wrapped tight with a ton of tissue paper. For comparison, we have e22 ultra clear 12mm od on the left and mayhems glass 12mm od on the right

Again e22 on the left and mayhems glass on the right

Sorry for the potato phone pics. First impressions, the light shines off it very nicely. E22 is really good stuff, and this seems even better. E22 scratches kinda easy. Glass did not. Even whipping the e22 with micro fiber seemed to scratch slightly. The glass just glowed. I can't wait to get this in my rig. I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Package showed up at work today
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is how it's shipped
> 
> After removing all the popcorn and bubble wrap we have
> 
> Wrapped tight with a ton of tissue paper. For comparison, we have e22 ultra clear 12mm od on the left and mayhems glass 12mm od on the right
> 
> Again e22 on the left and mayhems glass on the right
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the potato phone pics. First impressions, the light shines off it very nicely. E22 is really good stuff, and this seems even better. E22 scratches kinda easy. Glass did not. Even whipping the e22 with micro fiber seemed to scratch slightly. The glass just glowed. I can't wait to get this in my rig. I'll keep you guys posted.


Damn right.
Even with the potato camera I can clearly see that the right looks much better in the light. It's new to me though. No bending with that, right? Or am I missing something.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Tubing done and leak test for 24 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did a video of the filling process


Thanks for the Vid Snef. I needed that. It's slow at work over here and that was epic (As Usual)

TCO


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks for the Vid Snef. I needed that. It's slow at work over here and that was epic (As Usual)
> 
> TCO


Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks


No Problem. Love watching builds getting filled up. So Fulfilling (Pun Intended)









Why Fesser One though? No Mayhems?

TCO


----------



## Domler

For bending the glass, in short, do not try this at home. Mick says 1500c open flame then 1700c in an oven to reharden. There is prebent 90 coming soon. I'm gonna use fittings for now, then switch when avalable. I'm gonna use bitspower enhanced link fittings. He says they will work. Not sure if full fledge compression fittings are recommended. Push in are ideal.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No Problem. Love watching builds getting filled up. So Fulfilling (Pun Intended)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why Fesser One though? No Mayhems?
> 
> TCO


used what was available in my area and don't want to dark blood red, this one look dark with the black behind, imagine if it was blood red..

and finally I really like this shade of red, I have another build with theme around Elle Driver in Nurse outfit (KIll Bill), I will use this red


----------



## Domler

@snef
Absolutely stunning. Just wow. Well done sir, well done.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> used what was available in my area and don't want to dark blood red, this one look dark with the black behind, imagine if it was blood red..
> 
> and finally I really like this shade of red, I have another build with theme around Elle Driver in Nurse outfit (KIll Bill), I will use this red


I also enjoyed the filling video.
Don't know what it is... it is so relaxing to watch.







Probably the addiction.

Also by far my favorite part when building a loop. Filling it and seeing the fluid make its way through the circuit.








Water-cool nerds here, haha.

I keep asking myself how you, and some others here, get to do such beautiful builds. Are they for customers, friends?

Absolutely love that gpu block to. The acrylic covering the entire card past the core block itself.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> used what was available in my area and don't want to dark blood red, this one look dark with the black behind, imagine if it was blood red..
> 
> and finally I really like this shade of red, I have another build with theme around Elle Driver in Nurse outfit (KIll Bill), I will use this red


Been a while since I've seen you go black and red for a scheme. Kinda different change of pace. Worth the While Though. That S5 (Or S8?) Has some room for the 250ml Bits Res though. Didn't realize you could fit them bad boys in there. You Never cease to amaze me.









TCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I also enjoyed the filling video.
> Don't know what it is... it is so relaxing to watch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Probably the addiction.*
> 
> Also by far my favorite part when building a loop. Filling it and seeing the fluid make its way through the circuit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water-cool nerds here, haha.
> 
> I keep asking myself how you, and some others here, get to do such beautiful builds. *Are they for customers, friends*?


Some of them (Snef, Bneg etc) have sponsors. Others (The Rest of Us) Go Broke Building them all for no Reason

TCO


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> TCO
> Some of them (Snef, Bneg etc) have sponsors. *Others (The Rest of Us) Go Broke Building them all for no Reason*
> 
> TCO


So true.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> So true.


Which I should Say, I don't mind at all. We just take longer inbetween builds than some









You Know, after you sell a couple organs you don't need, and aquire a tad bit of cash









TCO


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @snef
> Absolutely stunning. Just wow. Well done sir, well done.


Thanks a lot









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I also enjoyed the filling video.
> Don't know what it is... it is so relaxing to watch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably the addiction.
> 
> Also by far my favorite part when building a loop. Filling it and seeing the fluid make its way through the circuit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water-cool nerds here, haha.
> 
> I keep asking myself how you, and some others here, get to do such beautiful builds. Are they for customers, friends?
> 
> Absolutely love that gpu block to. The acrylic covering the entire card past the core block itself.


Thanks, this one is not for me or a friends, I cant talk about that here as per forum policies









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Been a while since I've seen you go black and red for a scheme. Kinda different change of pace. Worth the While Though. That S5 (Or S8?) Has some room for the 250ml Bits Res though. Didn't realize you could fit them bad boys in there. You Never cease to amaze me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thanks mate







, this one is a S8, and both res are 300mm, 250 was to short, with a D5 and Bitspower mod top, 250 is the right choice


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , this one is a S8, and both res are 300mm, 250 was to short, with a D5 and Bitspower mod top, 250 is the right choice


That's even more impressive. I don't think I've ever seen a 300mm Res, or Rather, Noticed Them. Once I used the 250mm Res I figured all the others would be a tad to big to use in a build that I was planning. Good to know.

Unless your saying that you used a 250mm Res/ DDC and it was 300mm Height together









TCO


----------



## khemist

Can people who have used the Mayhems glass tubing please list what fittings they are using?, the Bitspower enhance fittings i've got can be pretty easily slid off the tube.


----------



## Domler

@khemist

These are the fittings I just got in and they seem to fit pretty snug. Bitspower enhanced link 12mm. Not sure about fittings that have been already used. I also whipped my glass down with micro fiber, dry. Felt almost tacky at first and seemed to smooth out the more I whipped. Not sure if there is a thin coating from the factory. I don't know. But the fitting I just put on feels really snug.

Side note, I just whipped it down with windex. Wow. This stuff shines.


----------



## Ceadderman

I can say for a fact that it's easy to break 35c. If you're doing anything intestine or using HT, 40c was an average temperature on my 1100t and my 955 and then 965 both threw off Temps in the mid 40c range.

I Fold, so yeah 40c and hotter I am used to seeing.









~Ceadder


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Unless your saying that you used a 250mm Res/ DDC and it was 300mm Height together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


nop, I used 300mm tube , you need to add the pump top and the DDC


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @khemist
> These are the fittings I just got in and they seem to fit pretty snug. Bitspower enhanced link 12mm. Not sure about fittings that have been already used. I also whipped my glass down with micro fiber, dry. Felt almost tacky at first and seemed to smooth out the more I whipped. Not sure if there is a thin coating from the factory. I don't know. But the fitting I just put on feels really snug.
> 
> Side note, I just whipped it down with windex. Wow. This stuff shines.


I'm using the 16mm ones, have you tried to give the fittings a bit of a pull to see how easily comes off?.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> lol nop, I used 300mm tube , you need to add the pump top and the DDC


Gotcha









I Figured that's what you were saying, but then you mentioned a 250mm res at the end of your comment.

TCO


----------



## TPham

Hey guys, I need some though or ideas on my new build! I posted a build log on another forum and they only gave me non-constructive feedbacks (like this build is ugly with out any reason why). I really want good feedbacks to improve this build. My goal is to have a clean build and to keep those two rams blocks.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I need some though or idea on my new build! I posted a build log on another forum and they only give me non-constructive feedbacks (like this build is ugly with out any reason why). I really want good feedback to improve this build. My goal is to have a clean build and to keep those two rams blocks.


There ain't nothing wrong with that build. She's a thing of beauty. Good job!


----------



## Domler

@khemist
Yes, I have tried to pull them off and they are not coming off. There is no question about it. I am also using 12mm od. Not sure if that matters. I also just put it on the factory edge. I have not cut them yet. I know Mick says to score, break, and sand flat. Not sure if we need to sand the very edge like acrylic. Debure. Sorry. I suck at spelling. I am starting to wonder if the very edge is sharp, as I imagine it would be, if it's cutting the oring. Causeing it to be loose. I emailed Mick to see what he says and any other tips. We will figure this out.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I need some though or idea on my new build! I posted a build log on another forum and they only give me non-constructive feedbacks (like this build is ugly with out any reason why). I really want good feedback to improve this build. My goal is to have a clean build and to keep those two rams blocks.


Do you mean about your tubing runs or in general?

I would say paint the phillips screw heads white like you did others or maybe use some black allen button heads.

For tubing it looks good as is, if you want to be a stickler I would say simply fix a couple of those runs so they run parallel to the bottom of the case.

OH and is it possible to get matching ram blocks?


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Do you mean about your tubing runs or in general?
> 
> I would say paint the phillips screw heads white like you did others or maybe use some black allen button heads.
> 
> For tubing it looks good as is, if you want to be a stickler I would say simply fix a couple of those runs so they run parallel to the bottom of the case.
> 
> OH and is it possible to get matching ram blocks?


I have an EK XE 480 rad and those rad are so so big, that is why the tube in the bottom left is not straight. I could get a matching ram blocks, it have to be the one from the left (6x ram block). I also ran to a coolant problem. The coolant Mayhem pastel red change it color overnight, it get so so dark (see pics) and I think it is because of my new rad and not flushing it right. For my credit, I did flush it twice with distilled water but i'm guessing it not enough. Thanks for your feedbacks, peoples from the other forum that I used to share informations just wear me out... I got comments like this is a total waste of components and money but they can't give me a reason why or how to fix it. This is my first build so there are lots to learn, but I'm feel better now.



Here are some pictures with low bedroom light. Also after i'm installed all the lights some of the logo with lid up


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhems Red Pastel is extremely sensitive and prone to color change, looks great when it's in the right conditions. Build looks great either way







I'd even think the blood red X1 would look great as well


----------



## Domler

Doing a lil mixn.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> I have an EK XE 480 rad and those rad are so so big, that is why the tube in the bottom left is not straight. I could get a matching ram blocks, it have to be the one from the left (6x ram block). I also ran to a coolant problem. The coolant Mayhem pastel red change it color overnight, it get so so dark (see pics) and I think it is because of my new rad and not flushing it right. For my credit, I did flush it twice with distilled water but i'm guessing it not enough. Thanks for your feedbacks, peoples from the other forum that I used to share informations just wear me out... I got comments like this is a total waste of components and money but they can't give me a reason why or how to fix it. This is my first build so there are lots to learn, but I'm feel better now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures with low bedroom light. Also after i'm installed all the lights some of the logo with lid up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dont worry about it, it looks very good for a first build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> used what was available in my area and don't want to dark blood red, this one look dark with the black behind, imagine if it was blood red..
> 
> and finally I really like this shade of red, I have another build with theme around Elle Driver in Nurse outfit (KIll Bill), I will use this red
> 
> 
> 
> Been a while since I've seen you go black and red for a scheme. Kinda different change of pace. Worth the While Though. That S5 (Or S8?) Has some room for the 250ml Bits Res though. Didn't realize you could fit them bad boys in there. You Never cease to amaze me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I also enjoyed the filling video.
> Don't know what it is... it is so relaxing to watch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Probably the addiction.*
> 
> Also by far my favorite part when building a loop. Filling it and seeing the fluid make its way through the circuit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water-cool nerds here, haha.
> 
> I keep asking myself how you, and some others here, get to do such beautiful builds. *Are they for customers, friends*?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Some of them (Snef, Bneg etc) have sponsors. Others (The Rest of Us) Go Broke Building them all for no Reason
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I didnt get sponsored for a while,I did my share of legwork to get where i am.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Package showed up at work today
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is how it's shipped
> 
> After removing all the popcorn and bubble wrap we have
> 
> Wrapped tight with a ton of tissue paper. For comparison, we have e22 ultra clear 12mm od on the left and mayhems glass 12mm od on the right
> 
> Again e22 on the left and mayhems glass on the right
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the potato phone pics. First impressions, the light shines off it very nicely. E22 is really good stuff, and this seems even better. E22 scratches kinda easy. Glass did not. Even whipping the e22 with micro fiber seemed to scratch slightly. The glass just glowed. I can't wait to get this in my rig. I'll keep you guys posted.


Are you going to bend that or are you going to use angle fittings? I definitely don't like scratches. It's going to drive me crazy if my acrylic tube have scratches.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Tubing done and leak test for 24 hours
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did a video of the filling process


I definitely enjoyed watching the filling & leak testing video. Love that red coolant color.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Do you mean about your tubing runs or in general?
> 
> I would say paint the phillips screw heads white like you did others or maybe use some black allen button heads.
> 
> For tubing it looks good as is, if you want to be a stickler I would say simply fix a couple of those runs so they run parallel to the bottom of the case.
> 
> OH and is it possible to get matching ram blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an EK XE 480 rad and those rad are so so big, that is why the tube in the bottom left is not straight. I could get a matching ram blocks, it have to be the one from the left (6x ram block). I also ran to a coolant problem. *The coolant Mayhem pastel red change it color overnight, it get so so dark (see pics) and I think it is because of my new rad and not flushing it right.* For my credit, I did flush it twice with distilled water but i'm guessing it not enough. Thanks for your feedbacks, peoples from the other forum that I used to share informations just wear me out... I got comments like this is a total waste of components and money but they can't give me a reason why or how to fix it. This is my first build so there are lots to learn, but I'm feel better now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures with low bedroom light. Also after i'm installed all the lights some of the logo with lid up
Click to expand...

Yup, that's usually the source of the problem. Adding the fact that Pastel Red have narrow pH range, the color can easily & quickly change.

Nice build anyway.


----------



## Mayhem

Weve had a few ppl contact us about the glass and some fitting sliding off or not fitting though the inner diameter hole of the fitting. The issue actually is not the glass at fault but the fittings not being quality controlled (qc) correctly..

Every single peace of Mayhems glass is checked 2 times with a micrometer to make sure it is with in +/- 0.02mm of stated size there is no compromise. Every single peace of glass is checked for marks and scratches. Then every single peace is hand wrapped in tissue paper and labeled with with a sticker.

If your fitting don't fit our stated size of 12,13 or 16mm then the manufacturer of the fittings is at fault and you either need to send them back for a replacement or get a refund. We have tested over 20 different fittings and found 2 were not up to the mark. I will not name names because some times these things just happen.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Weve had a few ppl contact us about the glass and some fitting sliding off or not fitting though the inner diameter hole of the fitting. The issue actually is not the glass at fault but the fittings not being quality controlled (qc) correctly..
> 
> Every single peace of Mayhems glass is checked 2 times with a micrometer to make sure it is with in +/- 0.02mm of stated size there is no compromise. Every single peace of glass is checked for marks and scratches. Then every single peace is hand wrapped in tissue paper and labeled with with a sticker.
> 
> If your fitting don't fit our stated size of 12,13 or 16mm then the manufacturer of the fittings is at fault and you either need to send them back for a replacement or get a refund. We have tested over 20 different fittings and found 2 were not up to the mark. I will not name names because some times these things just happen.


No go on, name them. I find it amazing that what is seemingly a turned metal fitting could be that far out of spec ... (especially compared to a tubing, extruded or not). I have checked all mine and there is little if any variation. (its hard to measure inner diams)

I have been collecting single fittings of all the brands and sizes so I could create a comparison thread with accurate sizes but that'll be a waste of time if this is true. Its bad enough the daft companies that use metric an Imp sizes interchangeably without this adding to it.

Edit: though, I did forwarn that saying these tubes would fit every brand would be a problem. I mean am I misunderstanding and they are having probs with like 1/2, 5/8 fittings on 13mm, 16mm tube rather than what I assumed ... 16mm fittings on the 16 tube. Because that I could totally understand.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I didnt get sponsored for a while*,I did my share of legwork to get where i am*.


I never doubted that. Just answering a question Bneg.

TCO


----------



## RnRollie

Manufacturing errors happen, especially if its made in The Peoples Republic of Lead Paint









But yeah, life would be a lot easier if everybody switched to metric for everything, cuz after all -despite living on in the hearts & minds of every pommy anglo-saxon- the empire is gone.
No amount of Assassins Creed - SteamPunk Edition is gonna change that









At least one LITER, or one CENTIMETER is the same everywhere in the world. Something which cannot be said for Miles & acres & gallons..








btw why are US gallons different from Imp Gallons? Lost the correct measurement while dumping tea in the Boston harbour?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I didnt get sponsored for a while,I did my share of legwork to get where i am.


Come On B. you know that we the old folks of OCN know exactly how hard your worked to get where you are. we admire, appreciate and respect that. same things applies to all other veterans of the WC scene. I think that's what TCO meant to say.


----------



## crafty615

Is there any way for me to get better temps? I have an Intel i7 3770k OC to 4.2Ghz (my motherboard automatically overclocks it, haven't had much time to really go for 4.5+) and an Asus gtx strix 970 running the stock OC. My loop includes EK supremacy evo nickle/plexi and EK 970 full coverage nickle/plexi. XSPC 480 V3 with 4 EK vardar 2200rpm in push configuration, koolance D5 pump and 16mm OD acrylic tube. My ambient temp is 22-23C, water temp is 23-24C idle and 25-26C under load. My cpu is 26-30C idle and hottest core hits 63C under load but levels off around 55-58C with random spikes to over 60C. My gpu is 23C idle and 33-35C under load.

I have reapplied tim to my cpu and don't get much different results. I would have thought with a complete custom loop like this I wouldn't break 60C under load.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Is there any way for me to get better temps? I have an Intel i7 3770k OC to 4.2Ghz (my motherboard automatically overclocks it, haven't had much time to really go for 4.5+) and an Asus gtx strix 970 running the stock OC. My loop includes EK supremacy evo nickle/plexi and EK 970 full coverage nickle/plexi. XSPC 480 V3 with 4 EK vardar 2200rpm in push configuration, koolance D5 pump and 16mm OD acrylic tube. My ambient temp is 22-23C, water temp is 23-24C idle and 25-26C under load. My cpu is 26-30C idle and hottest core hits 63C under load but levels off around 55-58C with random spikes to over 60C. My gpu is 23C idle and 33-35C under load.
> 
> I have reapplied tim to my cpu and don't get much different results. I would have thought with a complete custom loop like this I wouldn't break 60C under load.


How much voltage under load?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Is there any way for me to get better temps? I have an Intel i7 3770k OC to 4.2Ghz (my motherboard automatically overclocks it, haven't had much time to really go for 4.5+) and an Asus gtx strix 970 running the stock OC. My loop includes EK supremacy evo nickle/plexi and EK 970 full coverage nickle/plexi. XSPC 480 V3 with 4 EK vardar 2200rpm in push configuration, koolance D5 pump and 16mm OD acrylic tube. My ambient temp is 22-23C, water temp is 23-24C idle and 25-26C under load. My cpu is 26-30C idle and hottest core hits 63C under load but levels off around 55-58C with random spikes to over 60C. My gpu is 23C idle and 33-35C under load.
> 
> I have reapplied tim to my cpu and don't get much different results. I would have thought with a complete custom loop like this I wouldn't break 60C under load.


That all sounds absolutely normal to me. Only way to lower your temps is more rads and push/pull but you will get diminished returns after a certain point.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> How much voltage under load?


like 1.17V


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> like 1.17V


Your temps currently are very good for the cpu nothing to worry about there especially not putting too much voltage through it. I personally wouldn't worry about temps until hitting 80's under 1.35volts or so.

I personally run 4.7ghz 1.3v and maxes out mid 60's. That's more than comfortable for me.









I would recommend overclocking manually as motherboards are known to pump much more voltage than needed for higher overclocks.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Your temps currently are very good for the cpu nothing to worry about there especially not putting too much voltage through it. I personally wouldn't worry about temps until hitting 80's under 1.35volts or so.
> 
> I personally run 4.7ghz 1.3v and maxes out mid 60's. That's more than comfortable for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend overclocking manually as motherboards are known to pump much more voltage than needed for higher overclocks.


okay, I was just wondering because during my research I was finding people with the same ambient and cpu using AIO coolers and getting under 60C

Eventually I am going to add a 240 rad and put it and possibly my 480 in push/pull


----------



## sinnedone

Wehere custom loops really shine and show better temps compared to aio's is when much more heat neats to be taken out of the system. Aka more voltage


----------



## 033Y5

hi
anyone painted a Alphacool NexXxos UT60? if so what steps did you take ?

i got a white 360mm from ebay for cheap (£20 and £5 postage) and wanna paint it either yellow or black but not sure of the best way to paint it


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *033Y5*
> 
> hi
> anyone painted a Alphacool NexXxos UT60? if so what steps did you take ?
> 
> i got a white 360mm from ebay for cheap (£20 and £5 postage) and wanna paint it either yellow or black but not sure of the best way to paint it


Don't have experience painting rads myself but my guess is to clear the current coat completely. Apply some primer, few layers if needed. Then the color, few layers until even.. Then maybe some finishing coat if you want it to be shinny or whatever.

*Okay people.*



Had some contact with PrimoChill about the tubing issue, few mails.

They told me that they couldn't supply me with proper information as they don't know what my loops consists of. On top of that they highly advice against using Biocides. So I supplied them info of all the parts that are in my loop. Also asked them why they advice against Biocides (I am certain it is needed to prevent Algae and Corrosion).

This is the response I got from them:
Quote:


> Thank you for providing all of that information. You are correct in that you do need something to prohibit the growth of microorganisms, however you want to use one that is not toxic. We very highly recommend not using any toxic additives, such as a copper sulfate. We do have a product that is Earth friendly and will not destroy the integrity of your tube. I have provided you with a link to Liquid Utopia. This has all of the anti-corrosive and anti-microbial properties you are looking for without the harmful effects. Please let me know if you've got any questions or comments. Have a great day!
> 
> http://www.primochill.com/product/primochill-liquid-utopia/
> http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Liquid-Utopia-15ml-Bottle/dp/B00CDXQ22M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1444147843&sr=8-1&keywords=liquid+utopia


Any idea about this, someone? I understand the idea... but is it really true? Could very well be they just try to sell me something.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Weve had a few ppl contact us about the glass and some fitting sliding off or not fitting though the inner diameter hole of the fitting. The issue actually is not the glass at fault but the fittings not being quality controlled (qc) correctly..
> 
> Every single peace of Mayhems glass is checked 2 times with a micrometer to make sure it is with in +/- 0.02mm of stated size there is no compromise. Every single peace of glass is checked for marks and scratches. Then every single peace is hand wrapped in tissue paper and labeled with with a sticker.
> 
> If your fitting don't fit our stated size of 12,13 or 16mm then the manufacturer of the fittings is at fault and you either need to send them back for a replacement or get a refund. We have tested over 20 different fittings and found 2 were not up to the mark. I will not name names because some times these things just happen.


I cannot speak about the glass, that is out of my field of knowledge. I can speak about machined fittings, whether plastics or metal. Even though computer controlled lathes and mills are extremely accurate in themselves, the programming still has to be accurate, input correctly, the machine manually setup, coolant/lubricant properly prepared, cutting and milling chucks and tools installed and changed if necessary. There are any number of additional things that can happen as well, bearings, feeder, and on-on. It is very easy to get out of spec, especially if an operator is not paying attention, is tending more than one machine or doesn't inspect samples per QC schedule. A lot of big production facilities have employees that are not actual machinists, but trained to operate the equipment. The burden is then put on the programmer, head machinist and the quality control department. Even then, usually only a portion of the product is actually checked. If 5 lathes are spitting out 500 "type X" fittings per hour, probably 20 - 50 pieces per station are checked for that run. The QC inspect rate could be higher, it could be lower, depending on how critical the part is to its end assembly. We did a 25% QC sample rate and still had unseen imperfections; 25% is a very high sample rate.
Thus, it is reasonably likely the fittings are slightly different from fittings of the same model, brand, type and application. However, a difference in dimension from fitting to fitting may still be in production tolerances, but not work with the glass as the fitting spec may include an ID tolerance that is allowed to drift inside/outside of the OD tolerance of the glass. This is of course assuming the fittings maker is not contractually bound to meet the specs of the glass tube.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Weve had a few ppl contact us about the glass and some fitting sliding off or not fitting though the inner diameter hole of the fitting. The issue actually is not the glass at fault but the fittings not being quality controlled (qc) correctly..
> 
> Every single peace of Mayhems glass is checked 2 times with a micrometer to make sure it is with in +/- 0.02mm of stated size there is no compromise. Every single peace of glass is checked for marks and scratches. Then every single peace is hand wrapped in tissue paper and labeled with with a sticker.
> 
> If your fitting don't fit our stated size of 12,13 or 16mm then the manufacturer of the fittings is at fault and you either need to send them back for a replacement or get a refund. We have tested over 20 different fittings and found 2 were not up to the mark. I will not name names because some times these things just happen.
> 
> 
> 
> No go on, name them. I find it amazing that what is seemingly a turned metal fitting could be that far out of spec ... (especially compared to a tubing, extruded or not). I have checked all mine and there is little if any variation. (its hard to measure inner diams)
> 
> I have been collecting single fittings of all the brands and sizes so I could create a comparison thread with accurate sizes but that'll be a waste of time if this is true. *Its bad enough the daft companies that use metric an Imp sizes interchangeably* without this adding to it.
Click to expand...

This enrages me.....

Also,this is not the first time BP 16mm fittings have come up in here for similar problems....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Weve had a few ppl contact us about the glass and some fitting sliding off or not fitting though the inner diameter hole of the fitting. The issue actually is not the glass at fault but the fittings not being quality controlled (qc) correctly..
> 
> Every single peace of Mayhems glass is checked 2 times with a micrometer to make sure it is with in +/- 0.02mm of stated size there is no compromise. Every single peace of glass is checked for marks and scratches. Then every single peace is hand wrapped in tissue paper and labeled with with a sticker.
> 
> If your fitting don't fit our stated size of 12,13 or 16mm then the manufacturer of the fittings is at fault and you either need to send them back for a replacement or get a refund. We have tested over 20 different fittings and found 2 were not up to the mark. I will not name names because some times these things just happen.
> 
> 
> 
> I cannot speak about the glass, that is out of my field of knowledge. I can speak about machined fittings, whether plastics or metal. Even though computer controlled lathes and mills are extremely accurate in themselves, the programming still has to be accurate, input correctly, the machine manually setup, coolant/lubricant properly prepared, cutting and milling chucks and tools installed and changed if necessary. There are any number of additional things that can happen as well, bearings, feeder, and on-on. It is very easy to get out of spec, especially if an operator is not paying attention, is tending more than one machine or doesn't inspect samples per QC schedule. A lot of big production facilities have employees that are not actual machinists, but trained to operate the equipment. The burden is then put on the programmer, head machinist and the quality control department. Even then, usually only a portion of the product is actually checked. If 5 lathes are spitting out 500 "type X" fittings per hour, probably 20 - 50 pieces per station are checked for that run. The QC inspect rate could be higher, it could be lower, depending on how critical the part is to its end assembly. We did a 25% QC sample rate and still had unseen imperfections; 25% is a very high sample rate.
> Thus, it is reasonably likely the fittings are slightly different from fittings of the same model, brand, type and application. However, a difference in dimension from fitting to fitting may still be in production tolerances, but not work with the glass as the fitting spec may include an ID tolerance that is allowed to drift inside/outside of the OD tolerance of the glass. This is of course assuming the fittings maker is not contractually bound to meet the specs of the glass tube.
Click to expand...

This is also true,even something like a drop in temp can skew the tolerances of machined parts,we run piece flow and full environment control where I work to keep track of these things...you cant do that with volume machining tho.

Also,what may work for precise die extruded acrylic or copper may not work with glass.

25% is a massive sample size for volume work,lets not understate that either.


----------



## Dango

Finally finished the light box for the 750D. Need to pre-mount eveything this weekend and find a place to repaint everything.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> *Okay people.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some contact with PrimoChill about the tubing issue, few mails.
> 
> They told me that they couldn't supply me with proper information as they don't know what my loops consists of. On top of that they highly advice against using Biocides. So I supplied them info of all the parts that are in my loop. Also asked them why they advice against Biocides (I am certain it is needed to prevent Algae and Corrosion).
> 
> This is the response I got from them:
> Any idea about this, someone? I understand the idea... but is it really true? Could very well be they just try to sell me something.


Yes, they want to sell you something. It's their business to sell you something. That doesn't mean the product they suggest (their own) is a bad product. As far as toxic or non-toxic goes, to me, playing it safer by going non-toxic makes sense as long as the desired results meets what needs to be accomplished. The direction you go is completely up to you. The linked product looks a bit pricey, but if it is a one time application at that cost, in the long run (if it goes the distance) it would be a bargain.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Don't have experience painting rads myself but my guess is to clear the current coat completely. Apply some primer, few layers if needed. Then the color, few layers until even.. Then maybe some finishing coat if you want it to be shinny or whatever.
> 
> *Okay people.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some contact with PrimoChill about the tubing issue, few mails.
> 
> They told me that they couldn't supply me with proper information as they don't know what my loops consists of. On top of that they highly advice against using Biocides. So I supplied them info of all the parts that are in my loop. Also asked them why they advice against Biocides (I am certain it is needed to prevent Algae and Corrosion).
> 
> This is the response I got from them:
> Any idea about this, someone? I understand the idea... but is it really true? Could very well be they just try to sell me something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, they want to sell you something. It's their business to sell you something. *That doesn't mean the product they suggest (their own) is a bad product.* As far as toxic or non-toxic goes, to me, playing it safer by going non-toxic makes sense as long as the desired results meets what needs to be accomplished. The direction you go is completely up to you. The linked product looks a bit pricey, but if it is a one time application at that cost, in the long run (if it goes the distance) it would be a bargain.
Click to expand...

If its Primochill,it probably is.......


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its Primochill,it probably is.......


No argument here...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> No argument here...


Literally lmao, well tbh I've only used their tubing and I'm not impressed.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Weve had a few ppl contact us about the glass and some fitting sliding off or not fitting though the inner diameter hole of the fitting. The issue actually is not the glass at fault but the fittings not being quality controlled (qc) correctly..
> 
> Every single peace of Mayhems glass is checked 2 times with a micrometer to make sure it is with in +/- 0.02mm of stated size there is no compromise. Every single peace of glass is checked for marks and scratches. Then every single peace is hand wrapped in tissue paper and labeled with with a sticker.
> 
> If your fitting don't fit our stated size of 12,13 or 16mm then the manufacturer of the fittings is at fault and you either need to send them back for a replacement or get a refund. We have tested over 20 different fittings and found 2 were not up to the mark. I will not name names because some times these things just happen.


I just tried with the Bitspower fittings again, it seems that because i was twisting the tube a bit that made them come off easier.

If i just screw down the fittings without the tubing twisting they grip a lot better, i'll probaby stick with them.


----------



## Domler

@khemist
Cool. Good to hear.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its Primochill,it probably is.......


So you think it is not true what they told me? Biocide being the primary cause of my problems?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Needed to design a pump mount for use with my custom case. Quite a nice bracket! Turned out well







You can see more in the link in my sig titled, "Project mATX."



-Jeffinslaw


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Is there any way for me to get better temps? I have an Intel i7 3770k OC to 4.2Ghz (my motherboard automatically overclocks it, haven't had much time to really go for 4.5+) and an Asus gtx strix 970 running the stock OC. My loop includes EK supremacy evo nickle/plexi and EK 970 full coverage nickle/plexi. XSPC 480 V3 with 4 EK vardar 2200rpm in push configuration, koolance D5 pump and 16mm OD acrylic tube. My ambient temp is 22-23C, water temp is 23-24C idle and 25-26C under load. My cpu is 26-30C idle and hottest core hits 63C under load but levels off around 55-58C with random spikes to over 60C. My gpu is 23C idle and 33-35C under load.
> 
> I have reapplied tim to my cpu and don't get much different results. I would have thought with a complete custom loop like this I wouldn't break 60C under load.


According to your stated ambient and load water temps your maximum water delta is only 4c, so you will gain very little from adding more rad space.. your problem is getting the heat out of the cpu. The 3770k has thermal paste on the inside between the chip and the metal heatspreader, I think that is your current bottleneck on cpu temp.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> According to your stated ambient and load water temps your maximum water delta is only 4c, so you will gain very little from adding more rad space.. your problem is getting the heat out of the cpu. The 3770k has thermal paste on the inside between the chip and the metal heatspreader, I think that is your current bottleneck on cpu temp.


So youre saying the only way to get better temps is to delid?


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> So youre saying the only way to get better temps is to delid?


Basically yes, you won't get better cpu temps without changing the thermal paste inside the cpu. Do you feel like you need to change it? If the cpu can do what you want it to without spiking to 80c I'd say just leave it as is.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its Primochill,it probably is.......
> 
> 
> 
> So you think it is not true what they told me? Biocide being the primary cause of my problems?
Click to expand...

No,soft tube is just crap. This is why I started with alternatives and got hardlining mainstream.

I have not tried the Mayhem soft tube but,really,I couldnt care less,it _will_ fog,its inherent to the tube material.


----------



## WizardontheJob

Hello all! I just re-did my water cooling loop after finding a bad rotary fitting that almost took out my video card. It had been leaking for probably weeks before I noticed it. I have no idea how it didn't fry my video card. I decided fewer rotary fittings was better. Also I know that the fitting was worn down by constant flexing back and forth by the hose that ran between the cabinet and it's housing, so I used panel mount quick disconnects to go thru the case instead of around it.

I also decided to make it pretty inside. I got tired of the jumbled half finished mess of cables and drives just hanging there so I did a little panel work. Anyway, hope you like I!









First, here is the video card that was leaked on that prompted me to refit everything. It was a very slow drip, maybe 2-3 drops over the course of a day for likely more than a week. The fluid was a congealed pile of goo on top of the backplate that had leaked down onto the PCB and underneath the memory chips. I used an air compressor for about 15 minutes to blow all of the fluid out from underneath the chips.



So, now for the before and after!

*Before. What a mess*.







:


*After. So Tidy!*







:










*I also created a coffee table/gaming chair. Wont find this anywhere else*













Hope you liked it!


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> So youre saying the only way to get better temps is to delid?


Delidding is the absolute best way to lower temps on any mainstream Intel CPUs from Ivy Bridge forward.
the safest method is with a simple vice, but Razors and laminated cards are also possible.
I would also NOT use any conventional thermal pastes. they only last a month, at best.
it's is highly recommended that you use Coollaboratory's Luquid Ultra (or Pro)
A bit more expensive, but won't loose performance over time.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *033Y5*
> 
> hi
> anyone painted a Alphacool NexXxos UT60? if so what steps did you take ?
> 
> i got a white 360mm from ebay for cheap (£20 and £5 postage) and wanna paint it either yellow or black but not sure of the best way to paint it


Before painting it, be sure to leak test it, i.e., fill it with water, plug all the ports but one, and blow hard through a barb/hose attached to that one. A couple of days ago I had to uninstall a brand new UT60 240 mm because during my loop's leak test it was leaking like mad. It turned out to have 3 big leaks on one side and one smaller leak on the other, with no bent fins, i.e., probably bad solder or defective tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *033Y5*
> 
> hi
> anyone painted a Alphacool NexXxos UT60? if so what steps did you take ?
> 
> i got a white 360mm from ebay for cheap (£20 and £5 postage) and wanna paint it either yellow or black but not sure of the best way to paint it
> 
> 
> 
> Before painting it, be sure to leak test it, i.e., fill it with water, plug all the ports but one, and blow hard through a barb/hose attached to that one. A couple of days ago I had to uninstall a brand new UT60 240 mm because during my loop's leak test it was leaking like mad. It turned out to have 3 big leaks on one side and one smaller leak on the other, with no bent fins, i.e., probably bad solder or defective tubing.
Click to expand...

Your UT,did it have blue logo's?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Your UT,did it have blue logo's?


No logos, blue or otherwise. It came with separate copper-colored stickers (2x) in a baggie


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Your UT,did it have blue logo's?
> 
> 
> 
> No logos, blue or otherwise. It came with separate copper-colored stickers (2x) in a baggie
Click to expand...

Thats not a current gen rad,copper are 2 gens old and are...problematic.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all! I just re-did my water cooling loop after finding a bad rotary fitting that almost took out my video card. It had been leaking for probably weeks before I noticed it. I have no idea how it didn't fry my video card. I decided fewer rotary fittings was better. Also I know that the fitting was worn down by constant flexing back and forth by the hose that ran between the cabinet and it's housing, so I used panel mount quick disconnects to go thru the case instead of around it.
> 
> I also decided to make it pretty inside. I got tired of the jumbled half finished mess of cables and drives just hanging there so I did a little panel work. Anyway, hope you like I!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, here is the video card that was leaked on that prompted me to refit everything. It was a very slow drip, maybe 2-3 drops over the course of a day for likely more than a week. The fluid was a congealed pile of goo on top of the backplate that had leaked down onto the PCB and underneath the memory chips. I used an air compressor for about 15 minutes to blow all of the fluid out from underneath the chips.
> 
> 
> 
> So, now for the before and after!
> 
> *Before. What a mess*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> *After. So Tidy!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I also created a coffee table/gaming chair. Wont find this anywhere else*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you liked it!


I really like your setup. Wish I had the room to build a similar one.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/hj4Jqqxij

https://imageshack.com/i/p9QzBH3Vj

https://imageshack.com/i/p1wb6jwIj

Some pics of the glass tubing, i'll be using some really bright colour when i get around to using it.


----------



## electro2u

Anyone seen the new Billet mounts Singularity is selling? Look pretty nice.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Anyone seen the new Billet mounts Singularity is selling? Look pretty nice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yep. In the last video and then on their HP.
But it's also a bit pricey if you combine it with shipment to Europe and taxes







Have to resist...


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang
> 
> Can anyone tell me if there's someting wrong with my cooling on this Rig?


Has anyone have time to look at my component list for my water cooling?


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you liked it!


nice cat climber


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Has anyone have time to look at my component list for my water cooling?


In my opinion putting together a CPU&GPU loop with only 140mm rad space is nonsense..
If you're absolutely not going to OC the minimum i'd use for 6700k and R9Nano is 240mm.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> In my opinion putting together a CPU&GPU loop with only 140mm rad space is nonsense..
> If you're absolutely not going to OC the minimum i'd use for 6700k and R9Nano is 240mm.


The problem with having a 240 or even a 280 is that with this case I'd have to make some pretty big modifications and I don't have the tools to do it correctly.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *033Y5*
> 
> hi
> anyone painted a Alphacool NexXxos UT60? if so what steps did you take ?
> 
> i got a white 360mm from ebay for cheap (£20 and £5 postage) and wanna paint it either yellow or black but not sure of the best way to paint it


I'm currently doing that myself, I actually already painted them but they got scratched. Depending on the method ofcourse you want to use some durable paint so that you don't scratch them the first time you put them in your case. I couldn't find any durable aerosol cans in my area so I'm doing them again with some Hammerite paint with a paintbrush.

In either case, if you go the aerosol road you need to get three types of paint for a decent job and personally I did it in the following way:

First things first you are going to need some primer, then the main paint colour that you want and some clear paint for the layers and layers of clear coating you will put on after finishing. Try to stay with one brand for all of the layers as different brands may not work as well together.
Next thing you want to do is to mask off the fins of the radiator like I did here (sorry to say this but painting the fins is a big NO-NO, since you are more or less insulating the fins so that they can't dissipate heat as well): 
You also need to make sure that you plug all the inlets/outlets of the rad since you don't want any paint in there.
Next is the sanding and cleaning of the radiator. First you want to scuff the old paint with some 240grit sandpaper so that it's a flat finish on the radiator (no shine), then after you have done that you want to clean the radiator with a wet cloth or a dry microfiber cloth to make sure the paint will adhere properly to the surface and not to any dirt left over from the sanding.
Then I hung them up by using some screws and string like this:

Then you start applying the primer (1-2 coats should be enough) then regular paint (depending on how thick you lay it on 3-4 coats should give you a good surface finish) and in the end clear coat (1-2 is enough to just give the clear look, but if you want a strong surface you should put on as much as possible, 3-10 coats maybe??? at any rate this is where I failed with my first attempt). How you apply it will vary a bit from brand to brad so it helps to follow the instructions on the back of the can, if you want a smoother finish you may attempt to put the can in warm water before applying it (but check the can first if it tells you not to then you shouldn't).
In the end you can finish it off with some fine grain (1000 grit then 1500 then 2000 and finish with polishing) wet sanding and polishing if you really want it to shine.
That's how I'm doing mine, or rather did mine before I scratched them due to not using enough clear coats. You also need to let it cure completely before mounting it in your case, or at the very least be a bit careful while handling them until they completely cure.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> The problem with having a 240 or even a 280 is that with this case I'd have to make some pretty big modifications and I don't have the tools to do it correctly.


Then you might want to use a different case, go air cooling or, as last resort, use components with a lower TDP.
If you build it like it's proposed to it would just be a waste of money for the wc gear.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Then you might want to use a different case, go air cooling or, as last resort, use components with a lower TDP.
> If you build it like it's proposed to it would just be a waste of money for the wc gear.


Completely agree with this statement. IMHO the best choice would be a larger heat sink for the CPU and if you need to go WC then the GPU will likely benefit the most from it on stock clocks (considering the temp difference with a simple AIO on the GPU)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,soft tube is just crap. This is why I started with alternatives and got hardlining mainstream.
> 
> I have not tried the Mayhem soft tube but,really,I couldnt care less,it _will_ fog,its inherent to the tube material.


Fair enough.

So you experience is that rigid/hardline doesn't get clouded at all?
You, and a few others, started me to mess with idea. I will most likely switch to hardline when I have some funds (and time







).

BTW. Do you experience any difference in performance? Comparing soft with hardline? How are flowrates?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Hello all! I just re-did my water cooling loop after finding a bad rotary fitting that almost took out my video card.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It had been leaking for probably weeks before I noticed it. I have no idea how it didn't fry my video card. I decided fewer rotary fittings was better. Also I know that the fitting was worn down by constant flexing back and forth by the hose that ran between the cabinet and it's housing, so I used panel mount quick disconnects to go thru the case instead of around it.
> 
> I also decided to make it pretty inside. I got tired of the jumbled half finished mess of cables and drives just hanging there so I did a little panel work. Anyway, hope you like I!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, here is the video card that was leaked on that prompted me to refit everything. It was a very slow drip, maybe 2-3 drops over the course of a day for likely more than a week. The fluid was a congealed pile of goo on top of the backplate that had leaked down onto the PCB and underneath the memory chips. I used an air compressor for about 15 minutes to blow all of the fluid out from underneath the chips.
> 
> 
> 
> So, now for the before and after!
> 
> *Before. What a mess*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> *After. So Tidy!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *I also created a coffee table/gaming chair. Wont find this anywhere else*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you liked it!


Wow, lucky you on the GPU leak. I've read a few people having leaks on rotary fittings. I always do my best to make the tubing as precise in size as possible to make sure the rotary aren't under stress. IIRC some have had trouble when they were forced by too short or long tubing.

Apart from that:
You take the concept "desk case" to another level. Haha.
Neat idea though. Just push the "case" in the closet.









And DAT chair. Damn. I like it though. Looks comfy. And the plates to hold coffee beside you are just epic.
Do you make these chairs on order?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> nice cat climber


Hehe, sharp eye. Hadn't notice that one. Is indeed a big Cat tree.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> The problem with having a 240 or even a 280 is that with this case I'd have to make some pretty big modifications and I don't have the tools to do it correctly.


Like other said above.

IMO, either get a bigger case, mod the existing, go external on the rad(s) or don't go water at all on the GPU. On top of that, if you can afford that current setup with 2 1tb evo ssd's and the Nano GPU you can probably afford to buy a proper case (look into the Phanteks Enthoo Primo for example, very nice case the money IMO).

At first I thought your post smelled a bit Troll'ish. But if you are serious... the above ^^


----------



## Dortheleus

This build started with this super tight and tiny case. So I won't be changing it. I've looked more closely to the builds that have been done with this case and I realize that if I don't modify a side panel to accept a 240/280 radiator, I'm going to need to go AIO 120 for the CPU and to go with the stock air cooler for the Video.

Thanks gang for you comments


----------



## Rahldrac

So I am planning to get into hardtubing now and have a couple of questions:
Is there any special brand that is far above the rest? I have only heard that it's wise to choose tube and fittings from the same provider, since some use metric and some imperial and so on.

I am thinking of using EK with HDC fittings? Are there any reason not to do that? Anything better?
Tube size? Easier harder?
Bending: Heatgun, Silicon that fits the tube, sandpaper (is camfering the right expression?), hacksaw? Something to bend the tubes? Or handbend?

And also, I think Bneg or someone started a sleeving guide? Can't really find it :/

Edit:
I have seen some people (Snef forexample i think) Have made some fantastic artwork for the backplate of their GPU, how do you do this?


----------



## Idef1x

Sorry I am so full of my new build to keep spamming you guys - I will hold off now















The pics are far from perfect and not that artsy, but they were the best I could manage with my phone








I know the loop still has a few minor quirks, but I plan to do the cables at some point and then I can try to correct the few flaws here and there.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Sorry I am so full of my new build to keep spamming you guys - I will hold off now


Man, pics like those are what keeps me checking the thread


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> This build started with this super tight and tiny case. So I won't be changing it. I've looked more closely to the builds that have been done with this case and I realize that if I don't modify a side panel to accept a 240/280 radiator, I'm going to need to go AIO 120 for the CPU and to go with the stock air cooler for the Video.
> 
> Thanks gang for you comments


No problem.

Don't mean to be harsh or something BUT.








Personally I wouldn't even bother with a 120.1 AIO. Might just as well grab a decent air cooler then. Will do just fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Sorry I am so full of my new build to keep spamming you guys - I will hold off now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pics are far from perfect and not that artsy, but they were the best I could manage with my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know the loop still has a few minor quirks, but I plan to do the cables at some point and then I can try to correct the few flaws here and there.


Mwa. Looks okay.









If I must complain though: the CPU stands out IMO. If you can, I'd either take out the sticker or make a custom one?
Apart from that, I love it.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I am planning to get into hardtubing now and have a couple of questions:
> Is there any special brand that is far above the rest? I have only heard that it's wise to choose tube and fittings from the same provider, since some use metric and some imperial and so on.
> 
> I am thinking of using EK with HDC fittings? Are there any reason not to do that? Anything better?
> Tube size? Easier harder?
> Bending: Heatgun, Silicon that fits the tube, sandpaper (is camfering the right expression?), hacksaw? Something to bend the tubes? Or handbend?
> 
> And also, I think Bneg or someone started a sleeving guide? Can't really find it :/
> 
> Edit:
> I have seen some people (Snef forexample i think) Have made some fantastic artwork for the backplate of their GPU, how do you do this?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101
http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions

Some links to begin with








Regarding the backplates, i think they just use some kind of adhesive printable foil...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Sorry I am so full of my new build to keep spamming you guys - I will hold off now


This thread is a picture gallery, so keep em' coming








Nice build you have, i really love the straight runs








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> If I must complain though: the *PSU* stands out IMO. If you can, I'd either take out the sticker or make a custom one?
> Apart from that, I love it.


FTFY







And yeah i agree, the golden letters (AX) and the bold line at the end should be red to match the rest


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats not a current gen rad,copper are 2 gens old and are...problematic.


"Problematic" Yes, that`s the word that came to mind when my brand new build got flooded just from filling the res, even before switching on the pump. "What a problematic radiator", I thought to myself as I watched the water gushing out from multiple invisible wounds. It's a very good thing that I'm so civilized, and therefore didn't curse Titan Rig for selling me the defective junk, or Alphacool for foisting such a turd on unsuspecting consumers. "Problematic" is also the name I called myself for assuming the radiator was watertight just because it was NIB, instead of testing it for leaks when I flushed it, rather than as a part of my installed loop. Problematic, indeed!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> "Problematic" Yeas, that`s the word that came to mind when my brand new build got flooded just from filling the res, even before switching on the pump. "What a problematic radiator", I thought to myself as I watched the water gushing out from multiple invisible wounds. It's a very good thing that I'm so civilized, and therefore didn't curse Titan Rig for selling me the defective piece, or Alphacool for foisting such a turd on unsuspecting consumers. "Problematic" is also the name I called myself for assuming the radiator was watertight just because it was NIB, instead of testing it for leaks when I flushed it, rather than as a part of my installed loop. Problematic, indeed!


Hmm... maybe I should leak test mine before putting it in the case as well then... A pair of 480 monstas on my end, and they are of the older kind...


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> "Problematic" Yeas, that`s the word that came to mind when my brand new build got flooded just from filling the res, even before switching on the pump. "What a problematic radiator", I thought to myself as I watched the water gushing out from multiple invisible wounds. It's a very good thing that I'm so civilized, and therefore didn't curse Titan Rig for selling me the defective piece, or Alphacool for foisting such a turd on unsuspecting consumers. "Problematic" is also the name I called myself for assuming the radiator was watertight just because it was NIB, instead of testing it for leaks when I flushed it, rather than as a part of my installed loop. Problematic, indeed!


Sorry for your pain but this whole paragraph has me laughing out loud.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, what is the best method of draining my loop? I didn't implement a drain port into my loop, and I don't wanna screw something up. Please help!! Here are some reference pics.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, what is the best method of draining my loop? I didn't implement a drain port into my loop, and I don't wanna screw something up. Please help!! Here are some reference pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Maybe you can use a piece of tubing to drain your reservoir. Then tilt the case to shift the water into the reservoir again. Rinse and repeat







once you have drained it enough to take off a piece of tube you can easily drain the remaining water.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats not a current gen rad,copper are 2 gens old and are...problematic.
> 
> 
> 
> "Problematic" Yeas, that`s the word that came to mind when my brand new build got flooded just from filling the res, even before switching on the pump. "What a problematic radiator", I thought to myself as I watched the water gushing out from multiple invisible wounds. It's a very good thing that I'm so civilized, and therefore didn't curse Titan Rig for selling me the defective piece, or Alphacool for foisting such a turd on unsuspecting consumers. "Problematic" is also the name I called myself for assuming the radiator was watertight just because it was NIB, instead of testing it for leaks when I flushed it, rather than as a part of my installed loop. Problematic, indeed!
Click to expand...

There are a few users here that brand fans,because they had a few good rads everybody else that has negative experiences are 'haters'. Its just not worth the tirade that will ensue.....


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> This build started with this super tight and tiny case. So I won't be changing it. I've looked more closely to the builds that have been done with this case and I realize that if I don't modify a side panel to accept a 240/280 radiator, I'm going to need to go AIO 120 for the CPU and to go with the stock air cooler for the Video.
> 
> Thanks gang for you comments


Too many blocks, too little rad space. Definitely not good for cooling. If you build just for aesthetic, then go for it & make it look great.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, what is the best method of draining my loop? I didn't implement a drain port into my loop, and I don't wanna screw something up. Please help!! Here are some reference pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Put a bucket on the floor. Lay the case on its side on a table, with the radiator right above the bucket. Disconnect one of the tube on the radiator & point the tube to the bucket below. That should do it I think.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions
> 
> Some links to begin with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the backplates, i think they just use some kind of adhesive printable foil...
> This thread is a picture gallery, so keep em' coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build you have, i really love the straight runs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FTFY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah i agree, the golden letters (AX) and the bold line at the end should be red to match the rest


Exactly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Sorry for your pain but this whole paragraph has me laughing out loud.


Yeah, me to. While it's not funny at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, what is the best method of draining my loop? I didn't implement a drain port into my loop, and I don't wanna screw something up. Please help!! Here are some reference pics.


Yeah like the above said try drain the reservoir a bit. How tight is the tubing from the res to the rad and cpu?
My first thought was: take the rad out a bit. But maybe the tubing is too tight (probably).

So, next time. Make that drain port.









Wait:
What's the intention of draining? Do you need to take it apart or just flushing?
If you need to break it down, take out the cpu block and unscrew one fitting form it. Easy enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are a few users here that brand fans,because they had a few good rads everybody else that has negative experiences are 'haters'. Its just not worth the tirade that will ensue.....


Guess I was lucky then.
I also have the UT60 (360) that came with the separate golden stickers.

Wise lessen for me to. Leak test before putting it in the system.
Thanks


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> No problem.
> 
> Don't mean to be harsh or something BUT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I wouldn't even bother with a 120.1 AIO. Might just as well grab a decent air cooler then. Will do just fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Too many blocks, too little rad space. Definitely not good for cooling. If you build just for aesthetic, then go for it & make it look great.


Thanks for your comments gang. I've decided to go with a 240 rad but that means I'll need to cut into the case on the side, opposite to the video.
I'll be creating a Log very soon. Later today actually. Please standby









Thanks again


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Exactly
> Yeah, me to. While it's not funny at all.
> Yeah like the above said try drain the reservoir a bit. How tight is the tubing from the res to the rad and cpu?
> My first thought was: take the rad out a bit. But maybe the tubing is too tight (probably).
> 
> So, next time. Make that drain port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait:
> What's the intention of draining? Do you need to take it apart or just flushing?
> If you need to break it down, take out the cpu block and unscrew one fitting form it. Easy enough.
> Guess I was lucky then.
> I also have the UT60 (360) that came with the separate golden stickers.
> 
> Wise lessen for me to. Leak test before putting it in the system.
> Thanks


My current pump is super loud, and I'm replacing it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Too many blocks, too little rad space. Definitely not good for cooling. If you build just for aesthetic, then go for it & make it look great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a bucket on the floor. Lay the case on its side on a table, with the radiator right above the bucket. Disconnect one of the tube on the radiator & point the tube to the bucket below. That should do it I think.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Too many blocks, too little rad space. Definitely not good for cooling. If you build just for aesthetic, then go for it & make it look great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a bucket on the floor. Lay the case on its side on a table, with the radiator right above the bucket. Disconnect one of the tube on the radiator & point the tube to the bucket below. That should do it I think.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Maybe you can use a piece of tubing to drain your reservoir. Then tilt the case to shift the water into the reservoir again. Rinse and repeat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> once you have drained it enough to take off a piece of tube you can easily drain the remaining water.


Yes thank you thank you thank you guys for the help!


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Thanks for your comments gang. I've decided to go with a 240 rad but that means I'll need to cut into the case on the side, opposite to the video.
> I'll be creating a Log very soon. Later today actually. Please standby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again


As promised here is the build log.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> In my opinion putting together a CPU&GPU loop with only 140mm rad space is nonsense..
> If you're absolutely not going to OC the minimum i'd use for 6700k and R9Nano is 240mm.


I managed to cool an overclocked i5 and a gtx 480 with a thin 30fpi koolance 120mm rad and 1850rpm scythe gt, it's certainly doable if you're ok with a delta of 10-15C. I was hitting a water temp of 36C.


----------



## fast_fate

OMG - seriously sexy combo.
When will we get black wires as standard issue though


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> OMG - seriously sexy combo.
> When will we get black wires as standard issue though


When the manufacturing process runs out of the their 300 year stock.


----------



## derickwm

Long time since I've been here 

Got a couple things going on: SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning



















More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1575102/sff-build-msi-980-ti-lightning-liquid-cooling-silverstone-ftz01#post_24488033



















More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling#post_24486228


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> OMG - seriously sexy combo.
> When will we get black wires as standard issue though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Be even more sexy with a white radiator!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Be even more sexy with a white radiator!


I could do that BUT then you'ld want the white eLoops on it








I'ld never win


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Be even more sexy with a white radiator!
> 
> 
> 
> I could do that BUT then you'ld want the white eLoops on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'ld never win
Click to expand...

I saw someone posted those somewhere but can't find them on NB web site or any ecommerce shelf anywhere... For that matter, any eLoop on any rad is pretty much a bikini calendar in the making!


----------



## ali13245

Guys I accidentally got some drops of distilled water in my radiator fins while flushing it out, should I be worried?


----------



## electro2u

Not a concern at all. It will evaporate. I literally submerge mine to get dust out of the fins. It drys eventually


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Guys I accidentally got some drops of distilled water in my radiator fins while flushing it out, should I be worried?


Now it is totally broken. Might as well throw it out!

j/k. It's fine. But really?







This post almost made me lol.


----------



## ali13245

Lol sorry, Im complete noob. This is my fisrt loop. So should I just let water out on its own or is there anything I need to do?


----------



## sinnedone

Distilled water is cleaner then normal water. It has no chemical cleasing properties. It is safe to drink as well. It will taste funny since most of the metals and impurities are taken out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Long time since I've been here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a couple things going on: SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1575102/sff-build-msi-980-ti-lightning-liquid-cooling-silverstone-ftz01#post_24488033
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling#post_24486228


Those are awesome pictures like always, but what I want to know is what's going on with that 909.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Distilled water is cleaner then normal water. It has no chemical cleasing properties. It is safe to drink as well. It will taste funny since most of the metals and impurities are taken out.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Long time since I've been here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a couple things going on: SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1575102/sff-build-msi-980-ti-lightning-liquid-cooling-silverstone-ftz01#post_24488033
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling#post_24486228
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are awesome pictures like always, but what I want to know is what's going on with that 909.
Click to expand...

Haha it's on its way of course


----------



## crafty615

Small stuff left to do including cable management and painting fans, but this is basically the final product:

Ignore the fact that the drawers are missing


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Long time since I've been here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a couple things going on: SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1575102/sff-build-msi-980-ti-lightning-liquid-cooling-silverstone-ftz01#post_24488033
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> G]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling#post_24486228


that nvme block though


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Be even more sexy with a white radiator!


Something like this











Glossy white rad and photos didn't mix so well for me, sorry about the rad being a white-out


----------



## sinnedone

After almost 2 years she is finally done.














If you'd like to see more finished pictures they'll be at the end of my build log HERE


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> After almost 2 years she is finally done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you'd like to see more finished pictures they'll be at the end of my build log HERE


Hnnnggggg.. That's








Astonishing. Beautiful work!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Long time since I've been here


Who are you? Are we supposed to know you? I gotta say, that's a damned nice looking build for a nub. I prefer orange CaseLab builds though...


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Be even more sexy with a white radiator!
> 
> 
> 
> Something like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glossy white rad and photos didn't mix so well for me, sorry about the rad being a white-out
Click to expand...

If heaven was water cooled, it would look like this!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Be even more sexy with a white radiator!
> 
> 
> 
> Something like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glossy white rad and photos didn't mix so well for me, sorry about the rad being a white-out
Click to expand...

You might turn down your lighting or speeding up your exposure.

Just read a neat little article on the Anzacs. Seems that most if not all of them shipped out to Galipoli with Kodaks. The Kodak had only two settings. 1/50th and 1/28th exposure for Bright and Dull subjects respecticely.

I could be wrong, since I may have over thought this and it may be the other way around. But it seems to me that your exposure time is too long which allows more light to enter the focal point washing out the details of the subject other than those nifty looking fan bodies.









~Ceadder


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Who are you? Are we supposed to know you? I gotta say, that's a damned nice looking build for a nub. I prefer orange CaseLab builds though...


----------



## Dave6531

So i'm working on my new build which is first water cooled loop. Using 1 120 xflow black ice and a 240 black ice, how clean are these do should I be ok just flushing or should I pick up some nuke?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> So i'm working on my new build which is first water cooled loop. Using 1 120 xflow black ice and a 240 black ice, how clean are these do should I be ok just flushing or should I pick up some nuke?


I always flush new rads with distilled water before using them, just to remove anything that may be lurking inside. 2-3 drops of PT nuke once the loop is filled cant hurt either...


----------



## Dave6531

oops it's late but meant blitz not nuke


----------



## Origondoo

I flushed my rads with distilled water via a filter just to get some residual particles out.

After that I used some home cleaning stuff to clean the rests of the grease from the soldering process and the oxides from the inner surface of the rad.
1. The green bottle to solve and remove the grease (mix. 1 to 3 water). Filling the rad and keeping it react for ~7 minutes.
2. The orange bottle to remove the copper oxide layer (mix 1 to 3 water). Here max. 3-5 minutes to keep it inside the rad.
3. Quick flush incl. shacking with tap water to get the chemicals out.
4. As the finishing I flush again for ~10 min. with distilled water.

Below some pics of my cleaning procedure. On the last one you can see the green colored water = copper oxide.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










The good thing you do not need to wait for ages with this home cleaning stuff like you have e.g. with Mayhems Blitz


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> I flushed my rads with distilled water via a filter just to get some residual particles out.
> 
> After that I used some home cleaning stuff to clean the rests of the grease from the soldering process and the oxides from the inner surface of the rad.
> 1. The green bottle to solve and remove the grease (mix. 1 to 3 water). Filling the rad and keeping it react for ~7 minutes.
> 2. The orange bottle to remove the copper oxide layer (mix 1 to 3 water). Here max. 3-5 minutes to keep it inside the rad.
> 3. Quick flush incl. shacking with tap water to get the chemicals out.
> 4. As the finishing I flush again for ~10 min. with distilled water.
> 
> Below some pics of my cleaning procedure. On the last one you can see the green colored water = copper oxide.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good thing you do not need to wait for ages with this home cleaning stuff like you have e.g. with Mayhems Blitz


if you will use mayhem's pastel please just check the out coming water pH level.


----------



## Origondoo

Actually I'm using Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra, clear one. And I do not have any discoloration yet after ~ 1 week.

But that's what I had after flushing the rads with distilled water only.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








So as you can see the chemical cleaning of the rad before first use is highly advisable.

For the pH level it should be enough to flush the rad with tap water after chemicals and then with ~10 liters of distilled water.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Actually I'm using Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra, clear one. And I do not have any discoloration yet after ~ 1 week.
> 
> But that's what I had after flushing the rads with distilled water only.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as you can see the chemical cleaning of the rad before first use is highly advisable.
> 
> For the pH level it should be enough to flush the rad with tap water after chemicals and then with ~10 liters of distilled water.


Gotcha, I'd have to use filtered water or distilled as my tap water is horrible has high calium/protein levels.


----------



## Origondoo

A question to the community:

I'm planning to do a new build in CaseLabs S3 with pedestal which will contain 3 x Alphacool UT60 280 mm rads, double GPU block (AMD R9 Fury X2 or genemi what ever the name is), CPU block / Monoblock Asus Impact VIII and maybe some filter like Aquacomputer.
But I'm still undecided about the pump power I need. The target for the flow should be 100 L/h. Is it worth to go for 2 x D5 or is it better to go for 2 x DDC? The quietness is also the target.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Not a concern at all. It will evaporate. I literally submerge mine to get dust out of the fins. It drys eventually


This.
I did this since I had my Corsair h100. Just trew the whole rad in water to clean it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Now it is totally broken. Might as well throw it out!
> 
> j/k. It's fine. But really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This post almost made me lol.


Same here.
It felt a bit paranoid. But, better paranoid than sorry IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Lol sorry, Im complete noob. This is my fisrt loop. So should I just let water out on its own or is there anything I need to do?


Just let it air dry. Cap the radiator while doing it though or you have to flush again because of dust and all.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Small stuff left to do including cable management and painting fans, but this is basically the final product:
> 
> Ignore the fact that the drawers are missing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice IMO.
Totally home made?

I would change the rim on that Corsair fan though. Red doesn't fit there.

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> After almost 2 years she is finally done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you'd like to see more finished pictures they'll be at the end of my build log HERE


2 years? Wow, why so long?
Looks pretty good though. I like it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> oops it's late but meant blitz not nuke


You can do, it won't hurt.
But HWlabs rad's are said to be pretty clean. I only use distilled to flush anyway. But like said before, it depends on your situation, what you are going to use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Gotcha, I'd have to use filtered water or distilled as my tap water is horrible has high calium/protein levels.


One should always use distilled. Tap water is always horrible IMO.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, how loud should my pump be? I have an EKWB DCP 2.2, I'm leak testing it right now with another PSU, but it seems really loud...


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, how loud should my pump be? I have an EKWB DCP 2.2, I'm leak testing it right now with another PSU, but it seems really loud...


that's because of the air passing through it. make sure ur reservoir fill port is open so you allow air to escape, watch your fluid level go down a little bit, once the rattling noise is lessened you know most of you air is out, tilt your case a bit forward, backward along it's width and length so u can move air bubbles easier. have a great day


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys I seem to be having an issue flushing out my radiator. I have given it about 10+ flushes and I can still see some crap coming out of it. Is this normal or is something wrong with my rad? The radiator is a 560GTS from hardware labs.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys I seem to be having an issue flushing out my radiator. I have given it about 10+ flushes and I can still see some crap coming out of it. Is this normal or is something wrong with my rad? The radiator is a 560GTS from hardware labs.


I had to do 10+ flushes with vigorous shaking using tap water and then did 2 flushes with distilled. that was with the HWLabs GTS Xflow. They just come dirty.


----------



## fast_fate

Unfortunately seems hit and miss with HWLabs recently with the internal cleanliness and particles.
Some are really good after a hot water flush for 20 minutes and a couple of shake arounds in enough.
Some need a lot more, and unfortunately I can't find see pattern.
I guess its at the assembly line and who is putting how much paste on for the solder joints on the day








At the end of the day, it's a chore we all have to do, so I usually don't make any mention of it.
The end result is well worth it, even if somewhat painful at the time


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Looks nice IMO.
> Totally home made?
> 
> I would change the rim on that Corsair fan though. Red doesn't fit there.


Built from scratch









Yeah that's next on my to do list







paint the rim black and the blade uv green


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> that's because of the air passing through it. make sure ur reservoir fill port is open so you allow air to escape, watch your fluid level go down a little bit, once the rattling noise is lessened you know most of you air is out, tilt your case a bit forward, backward along it's width and length so u can move air bubbles easier. have a great day


Thank you, I hope you have an amazing day as well







. however, third noise is still persisting, and it was leak testing for 14 hours before, and it's still kinda noisy.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys I seem to be having an issue flushing out my radiator. I have given it about 10+ flushes and I can still see some crap coming out of it. Is this normal or is something wrong with my rad? The radiator is a 560GTS from hardware labs.


I ran tap water through the radiator & after a while reversed the flow (by connecting the tube to another port). Then filled with hot filtered water & shake well. Repeat for a couple of times. Finally flushed with distilled water a couple of times.

I follow this guide.
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Hnnnggggg.. That's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Astonishing. Beautiful work!


Thank you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 2 years? Wow, why so long?
> Looks pretty good though. I like it.


Thanks








Just regular life things that put your hobby on the back burner.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys I seem to be having an issue flushing out my radiator. I have given it about 10+ flushes and I can still see some crap coming out of it. Is this normal or is something wrong with my rad? The radiator is a 560GTS from hardware labs.


You can try to flush it with warm distilled (40-50c or so) and vinegar, 1 part vinegar 4 parts water, let it sit for 15 minutes or so and flush.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Unfortunately seems hit and miss with HWLabs recently with the internal cleanliness and particles.
> Some are really good after a hot water flush for 20 minutes and a couple of shake arounds in enough.
> Some need a lot more, and unfortunately I can't find see pattern.
> I guess its at the assembly line and who is putting how much paste on for the solder joints on the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of the day, it's a chore we all have to do, so I usually don't make any mention of it.
> The end result is well worth it, even if somewhat painful at the time


That sucks.
Am I right, HWlabs used to deliver pretty clean rads?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Built from scratch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah that's next on my to do list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> paint the rim black and the blade uv green


Nice dude.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Thank you, I hope you have an amazing day as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . however, third noise is still persisting, and it was leak testing for 14 hours before, and it's still kinda noisy.


What is noisy? Do you have something to compare it with?
Pumps do make noise, and some people find something noisy when it is actually normal. Can't say if that is the case in your situation though, as I can't hear it first hand.








Did it get less noisy after some time during the leak test?


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I ran tap water through the radiator & after a while reversed the flow (by connecting the tube to another port). Then filled with hot filtered water & shake well. Repeat for a couple of times. Finally flushed with distilled water a couple of times.
> 
> I follow this guide.
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


I can only confirm how well the flush with those filters work










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








THe good thing is the leakage test which is done in the same step.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Thank you, I hope you have an amazing day as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . however, third noise is still persisting, and it was leak testing for 14 hours before, and it's still kinda noisy.


Was it noisy before I had a mcp50x before that was loud and it didn't seem like vibration. Come to find out it was the pump cause the hdd cages to make the noise. Used rubber washer and it went "silent". If possible test with it not mounted to see of the noise is the same. Very well could just be how is mounted


----------



## alltheGHz

It could be that the pump is causing vibrations, I"ll try that as well. I'm very worried that all the work I put into the watercooling was in vain, because as of right now my hyper 212 evo was quieter than my watercooling...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> It could be that the pump is causing vibrations, I"ll try that as well. I'm very worried that all the work I put into the watercooling was in vain, because as of right now my hyper 212 evo was quieter than my watercooling...


That's not good.
Like emsj86 said: try to unmount your pump and hold it in your hand for example. How is the pump mounted btw? Can you post some pictures?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> It could be that the pump is causing vibrations, I"ll try that as well. I'm very worried that all the work I put into the watercooling was in vain, because as of right now my hyper 212 evo was quieter than my watercooling...


Pump vibrations are loud, as suggested, unmount the pump or find a way to soak up the vibrations. My case is a Corsair 500R and the drive bays are so thin the pump vibrates like crazy making loads of noise.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Pump vibrations are loud, as suggested, unmount the pump or find a way to soak up the vibrations. My case is a Corsair 500R and the drive bays are so thin the pump vibrates like crazy making loads of noise.


Bay res is horrid. Been there done that.


----------



## longroadtrip

monsterITX is finally leak testing!


----------



## d3t0n8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys I seem to be having an issue flushing out my radiator. I have given it about 10+ flushes and I can still see some crap coming out of it. Is this normal or is something wrong with my rad? The radiator is a 560GTS from hardware labs.


Hi there. Where did you purchase your NEMESIS 560GTS rad from? Can you PM me the photos? It is very rare that we have these instances of residue surface nowadays.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3t0n8*
> 
> Hi there. Where did you purchase your NEMESIS 560GTS rad from? Can you PM me the photos? It is very rare that we have these instances of residue surface nowadays.


I purchased the rad from performance pcs. would you like a photo of the rad itself?


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Pump vibrations are loud, as suggested, unmount the pump or find a way to soak up the vibrations. My case is a Corsair 500R and the drive bays are so thin the pump vibrates like crazy making loads of noise.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That's not good.
> Like emsj86 said: try to unmount your pump and hold it in your hand for example. How is the pump mounted btw? Can you post some pictures?


. I'm on mobile right now, here's the build log, check out the last two pictures for how it's mounted and my setup


----------



## B NEGATIVE

MAH HOMIES ARE COMING BACK!!!!!!!

https://www.facebook.com/pcmodders.co.uk


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MAH HOMIES ARE COMING BACK!!!!!!!
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/pcmodders.co.uk


Same folks that used to run Specialtech? Good news.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> . I'm on mobile right now, here's the build log, check out the last two pictures for how it's mounted and my setup


Yeah... bay reservoir.
I've had that to but I ended up just taking it out and switching to a proper res/top. I don't know about your case, but I've only read about people having vibration issues with bay reservoirs. I tried everything: loosening the screws, putting some lamptron isolation between it and the case. Didn't help.

Can't see it very well in the pictures but it looks like you have some room in the basement of your case. Best bet would be to try and mount the pump there with proper decoupling.

Don't want to spoil anything but that is my opinion.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MAH HOMIES ARE COMING BACK!!!!!!!
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/pcmodders.co.uk


Brilliant news!.


----------



## ali13245

Alright guys I'm pretty upset right now. I have been flushing these rads all day which are Hardware labs Nemesis GTS560 and GTS480. The radiators usually come in the dark matter finish, however I requested a matte black version for the radiators. Could the paint be causing this issue?I have done more than 30 flushes by now and they still can't seem to flush cleanly. Is it okay to run the rads even if a little material is still coming out? I feel like no matter how many times I flush them, the water will never come out clear!


----------



## Methodical

Here are few images from my 1st water cooling loop. It's not fancy like some of the others I've seen but it keeps all my temps in check. I'll save the fancy stuff for my overkill build.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Alright guys I'm pretty upset right now. I have been flushing these rads all day which are Hardware labs Nemesis GTS560 and GTS480. The radiators usually come in the dark matter finish, however I requested a matte black version for the radiators. Could the paint be causing this issue?I have done more than 30 flushes by now and they still can't seem to flush cleanly. Is it okay to run the rads even if a little material is still coming out? I feel like no matter how many times I flush them, the water will never come out clear!


Don't do this. Keep pouring warm/mild hot water on it, shaking it and discarding until water is clean. You will regret latter when those things go to your blocks. Not sure what is going on with these reports of HWlabs rads been dirty. In my experience historically they were the most clean rad out there...I can not imagine how the change in color would affect the internals unless the rad was painted without caps and paint got inside. Would help if you take some pics of the rads and the residuals of the water through a coffee filter after you discard during one of these flushes.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Alright guys I'm pretty upset right now. I have been flushing these rads all day which are Hardware labs Nemesis GTS560 and GTS480. The radiators usually come in the dark matter finish, however I requested a matte black version for the radiators. Could the paint be causing this issue?I have done more than 30 flushes by now and they still can't seem to flush cleanly. Is it okay to run the rads even if a little material is still coming out? I feel like no matter how many times I flush them, the water will never come out clear!


Distilled Water + Distilled Vinegar.. 4:1 i believe, it helped me.


----------



## ali13245

This is after 30 flushes:


----------



## pc-illiterate

i have got to ask.
what is the point in saying opening your res will allow air to escape? it is impossible for air to 'escape'. thats like punching a hole somewhere in an all-in-one and saying the air will escape and no longer be stuck making it completely full of coolant. its not going to escape.

the volume of an imaginary loop is 2 liters. you put in 1.5 liters of water and leave .5 liter of air. there is no escaping of air. if anything you need a pressure equalizer so air can come and go as the coolant heats and cools because it, you know, expands and contracts when it does. air is certainly not going to escape the res into the atmosphere though when youre bleeding your loop. the only time air is going to leave the res is when youre putting your coolant in the res. its not going to 'escape' the res when its just running and bleeding.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> I can only confirm how well the flush with those filters work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe good thing is the leakage test which is done in the same step.


I flushed my new rads for days with this method, then I used blitz prior to first use and a ton of stuff came out. I'm not doing the waterpump filter method anymore because its pointless after seeing how much stuff it missed once I used blitz.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i have got to ask.
> what is the point in saying opening your res will allow air to escape? it is impossible for air to 'escape'. thats like punching a hole somewhere in an all-in-one and saying the air will escape and no longer be stuck making it completely full of coolant. its not going to escape.
> 
> the volume of an imaginary loop is 2 liters. you put in 1.5 liters of water and leave .5 liter of air. there is no escaping of air. if anything you need a pressure equalizer so air can come and go as the coolant heats and cools because it, you know, expands and contracts when it does. air is certainly not going to escape the res into the atmosphere though when youre bleeding your loop. the only time air is going to leave the res is when youre putting your coolant in the res. its not going to 'escape' the res when its just running and bleeding.


The point is that the air and water will equalize the pressure. So, the air will travel to the opening, then when you tilt your case it will escape.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Here are few images from my 1st water cooling loop. It's not fancy like some of the others I've seen but it keeps all my temps in check. I'll save the fancy stuff for my overkill build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Its pretty nice IMO.

But why didn't you turn around the small radiator? So the tubing would be on the underside, would make it look cleaner IMO.
I see you have a soundcard (is it?) there, can place that one in another pci-e slot. I also have mine in a x16 slot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Don't do this. Keep pouring warm/mild hot water on it, shaking it and discarding until water is clean. You will regret latter when those things go to your blocks. Not sure what is going on with these reports of HWlabs rads been dirty. In my experience historically they were the most clean rad out there...I can not imagine how the change in color would affect the internals unless the rad was painted without caps and paint got inside. Would help if you take some pics of the rads and the residuals of the water through a coffee filter after you discard during one of these flushes.


Agreed, stuff will also get in the pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Distilled Water + Distilled Vinegar.. 4:1 i believe, it helped me.


Like I mentioned earlier. 4 parts distilled 1 part vinegar. Let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes. Make it warm/hot distilled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i have got to ask.
> what is the point in saying opening your res will allow air to escape? it is impossible for air to 'escape'. thats like punching a hole somewhere in an all-in-one and saying the air will escape and no longer be stuck making it completely full of coolant. its not going to escape.
> 
> the volume of an imaginary loop is 2 liters. you put in 1.5 liters of water and leave .5 liter of air. there is no escaping of air. if anything you need a pressure equalizer so air can come and go as the coolant heats and cools because it, you know, expands and contracts when it does. air is certainly not going to escape the res into the atmosphere though when youre bleeding your loop. the only time air is going to leave the res is when youre putting your coolant in the res. its not going to 'escape' the res when its just running and bleeding.


Well it won't really escape, like creating a vacuum.
But the point is to let the positive pressure release.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> The point is that the air and water will equalize the pressure. So, the air will travel to the opening, then when you tilt your case it will escape.


This


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i have got to ask.
> what is the point in saying opening your res will allow air to escape? it is impossible for air to 'escape'. thats like punching a hole somewhere in an all-in-one and saying the air will escape and no longer be stuck making it completely full of coolant. its not going to escape.
> 
> the volume of an imaginary loop is 2 liters. you put in 1.5 liters of water and leave .5 liter of air. there is no escaping of air. *if anything you need a pressure equalizer so air can come and go* as the coolant heats and cools because it, you know, expands and contracts when it does. air is certainly not going to escape the res into the atmosphere though when youre bleeding your loop. the only time air is going to leave the res is when youre putting your coolant in the res. its not going to 'escape' the res when its just running and bleeding.


You are right,however,leaving the cap off makes it un-pressurized,making it easier to bleed. You can see this in effect when you are bleeding by switching off the pump,switching it on again and watching the fluid drop as its trying to pressurize the air pockets. When you do that with the cap on,the fluid level doesnt drop anywhere near as much.
When the loop is full then seal it,there is no need for an equalizer after that,the compressability of the air is gone replaced with incompressable water,all the pressure after that is in the fluid.not the air in the res.
Escape is the wrong term tho.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Like I mentioned earlier. 4 parts distilled 1 part vinegar. Let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes. Make it warm/hot distilled.


Is vinegar easy to remove after I flush? I don't want it stuck in my rads especially the smell.


----------



## RnRollie

you flush several times with plain distilled AFTER the vinegar.
You can keep flushing till the smell is gone.. but that may take some


----------



## ali13245

I think I'll just stick to plain distilled. I just wanna know if its normal to be flushing rads out for this long?


----------



## kizwan

No need to use vinegar. It doesn't take long to flush rad.


----------



## pc-illiterate

B Neg, but these guys say it after the loops been filled and its running to purge out the smaller air pockets. i understand the compressing and all that stuffs. i know how to fill and bleed a loop.
notice i said 'if anything, you need a..'. theres a lot of people who think taking a stop out of the fill port will let the air escape from the loop. its a misunderstanding that comes from people saying stuff like this: "So, the air will travel to the opening, then when you tilt your case it will escape." this makes no sense.

nevermind. nubs will be nubs. people will be confused. misinformation will be spread intentionally or not. i dont care any more. im about tired of this sub anyway. theres more questions than picture postings.

enjoy life all. get out and live it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> B Neg, but these guys say it after the loops been filled and its running to purge out the smaller air pockets. i understand the compressing and all that stuffs. i know how to fill and bleed a loop.
> notice i said 'if anything, you need a..'. theres a lot of people who think taking a stop out of the fill port will let the air escape from the loop. its a misunderstanding that comes from people saying stuff like this: "So, the air will travel to the opening, then when you tilt your case it will escape." this makes no sense.
> 
> nevermind. nubs will be nubs. people will be confused. misinformation will be spread intentionally or not. i dont care any more. im about tired of this sub anyway. theres more questions than picture postings.
> 
> enjoy life all. get out and live it.


Im agreeing with you.....

Dont be angry,you know all this already,just share the love a little.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Its pretty nice IMO.
> 
> But why didn't you turn around the small radiator? So the tubing would be on the underside, would make it look cleaner IMO.
> I see you have a soundcard (is it?) there, can place that one in another pci-e slot. I also have mine in a x16 slot...


Believe me I tried, but the case has piece of metal there that won't allow it to sit flat and level to mount it there, so I had to go top side. I wanted it down not only for ease of tube routing, but also for easier draining. The sound card was not really the problem, but the case itself.

Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Is vinegar easy to remove after I flush? I don't want it stuck in my rads especially the smell.


Just flush a couple of times like said above.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> you flush several times with plain distilled AFTER the vinegar.
> You can keep flushing till the smell is gone.. but that may take some


Yep.
I did about three flushes after the vinegar.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I think I'll just stick to plain distilled. I just wanna know if its normal to be flushing rads out for this long?


Lol.
Not using something that will actually help clean the rad because of the smell?
You do have the loop closed when you run it right? Or do you have the reservoir open all the time and beneath your nose?

Just do and be done with it.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I flushed my new rads for days with this method, then I used blitz prior to first use and a ton of stuff came out. I'm not doing the waterpump filter method anymore because its pointless after seeing how much stuff it missed once I used blitz.


Those little filters are not made to catch teeny tiny particles, but rather larger ones if so happens it occurs. If filters were made to catch teeny tiny particles, flow would most likely be affected.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Those little filters are not made to catch teeny tiny particles, but rather larger ones if so happens it occurs. If filters were made to catch teeny tiny particles, flow would most likely be affected.


+1

I don't use filters in the loop anyway. Doesn't help for the stuff I want to filter and does restrict flow. So its a lose-lose situation.


----------



## toolmaker03

I have used the koolance inline water loop filters for 8 years now, on all my builds, and have had no issues with my flow rates on any of them, until the filter gets dirty, with does happen about every 6 to 8 months at with time I pull and clean the filter only.

the pulse side to having a filter in your loop is that you do not need to dissemble the loop to clean out the blocks, the filter catches all the particulates before they end up in the blocks, I do not dissemble my loops ever, because I do not ever need to.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> I have used the koolance inline water loop filters for 8 years now, on all my builds, and have had no issues with my flow rates on any of them, until the filter gets dirty, with does happen about every 6 to 8 months at with time I pull and clean the filter only.
> 
> the pulse side to having a filter in your loop is that you do not need to dissemble the loop to clean out the blocks, the filter catches all the particulates before they end up in the blocks, I do not dissemble my loops ever, because I do not ever need to.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm


All filters affect flow whether a little or alot, it affects flow. I did not say it would cause a problem, but affect flow.


----------



## barsh90

Where do you guys get those sleeveless cables? They look thicker than than the evga/corsair/cablemods offerings.


----------



## erso44

TCO & BNEGATIVE

you guy´s weren´t right, I could use my system with one 420mm rad on the top without fans and one 280mm rad at the front with fans. I also oc my cpu to 5 ghz with 1.49V and my gpu with 1.21V and I saw temps never exceeded 48°C...so playing MGSV was possible only the pump worked between 50-70% load....so it´s possible.

Not an offending, just wanted to present you guy´s my solution.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barsh90*
> 
> Where do you guys get those sleeveless cables? They look ticker than than the evga/corsair/cablemods offerings.


I don't want somebody else's premade sleevless. I've got a perfectly good crimper. I just need to find long wing pins that will crimp the sleeve to the wire clean enough to insert into connectors. I need to find someplace that sells them and takes PayPal.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## toolmaker03

@Methodical

All filters affect flow whether a little or alot, it affects flow. I did not say it would cause a problem, but affect flow.

well that might be true, but I did notice a flow restriction caused by the filter until I got my gaming rig to run at a flow rate above 8.9LPM, at 8.9LPM I had to add another filter to my parallel loop to prevent the filter from limiting my total flow rate to 8.9LPM, with two filters on the system one at each of the out ports of my radiators, the loop can run at 10.5LPM with no issues, so to my understanding of flow restriction, a inline filter will not cause any flow restrictions until one gets there loop to run at a flow rate of above 8.9LPM, and on a single D5 pump system with can not run that fast, one would not even know there was a restriction at all caused by the filter.

most systems do not have flow rates as fast as mine are.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm

have a read through on this build, and maybe this will help with the understandings I have about flow restriction.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> TCO & BNEGATIVE
> 
> you guy´s weren´t right, I could use my system with one *420mm rad on the top without fans and one 280mm rad at the front with fans*. I also oc my cpu to 5 ghz with 1.49V and my gpu with 1.21V and I saw temps never exceeded 48°C...so playing MGSV was possible only the pump worked between 50-70% load....so it´s possible.
> 
> Not an offending, just wanted to present you guy´s my solution.


I see you have Fans on one of the Rads. That wasn't the question you presented. It was Passive Cooling. In this case you have Fans blowing heat off of the Rads Correct?

TCO


----------



## Dortheleus

Hi gang,

Had to redo my Build log cause of how I'm financing it and what I'm going to do with it at the end.

So here's my new Build Log if you are interested.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> TCO & BNEGATIVE
> 
> you guy´s weren´t right, I could use my system with one 420mm rad on the top without fans and one 280mm rad at the front with fans. I also oc my cpu to 5 ghz with 1.49V and my gpu with 1.21V and I saw temps never exceeded 48°C...so playing MGSV was possible only the pump worked between 50-70% load....so it´s possible.
> 
> Not an offending, just wanted to present you guy´s my solution.


What are you talking about?

I said that a passive rad does very little,not that a 280 couldnt handle a chip and GPU.

I know this as I have had 2 290's and a x99 6 core on a skinny 360.





And core temps from a 1h OCCT run.















On a fully parallel loop......


----------



## toolmaker03

@B NEGITIVE
On a fully parallel loop......
so is mine











ambient air temp of the room is at 28.6
*idle temps of the hardware are*
CPU - 41C
GPU 1 - 33C
GPU 2 - 33C

*the water temps at idle are*
29-30C
*the load temps of the hardware are*
CPU - 54C
GPU 1 - 45C
GPU 2 - 45C

*the water temps at load are*
33-34C
the delta t of the system at load is 4C
*Link to Gallery*

this is the first other system I have seen built this way. yea.
what kind of flow rates are you getting on that build?
my next step is to use soft copper tubing like you did.
looks real nice, thanks for that.
mine wont look that nice but I will try.


----------



## Benjiw

Forgot how sexy that heretEK build was!







@B Neg


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> TCO & BNEGATIVE
> 
> you guy´s weren´t right, I could use my system with one 420mm rad on the top without fans and one 280mm rad at the front with fans. I also oc my cpu to 5 ghz with 1.49V and my gpu with 1.21V and I saw temps never exceeded 48°C...so playing MGSV was possible only the pump worked between 50-70% load....so it´s possible.
> 
> Not an offending, just wanted to present you guy´s my solution.


The question is if your cooling performance is actually better than if you just had the 280mm ...

I have 15 approx 120x60mm radiator squared in my build and if I leave the D5s running for an hour with no fans the water temperature rises. That's just the pumps, no CPU, mobo or the GPU blocks


----------



## alancsalt

To do @mentions in Plain Text, use the @ symbol in the toolbar above your post. Type the name, highlight it, click the toolbar @, and it will offer the correct spelling of the user's name regardless.

Otherwise

Code:



Code:


[@]membername[/@]


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The question is if your cooling performance is actually better than if you just had the 280mm ...
> 
> I have 15 approx 120x60mm radiator squared in my build and if I leave the D5s running for an hour with no fans the water temperature rises. That's just the pumps, no CPU, mobo or the GPU blocks


I second this.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Some normal camera pics soon. iPhone led darkside white leds for now. Painted heatsinks on the Asus pro wifi z97 came out good and no temp difference. Need to tidy up wires, get sleeved cables slightly longer and remove leds on he sound card.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> To do @mentions in Plain Text, use the @ symbol in the toolbar above your post. Type the name, highlight it, click the toolbar @, and it will offer the correct spelling of the user's name regardless.
> 
> Otherwise
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [@]membername[/@]


Only important if you actually want the person mentioned to know about it every time. I at least get an email everytime I'm mentined using the @Rainmaker91 function while there is several times I just mention that someone did something without actually wanting to bother them with all the notifications, then I personally use the @Rainmaker91 instead. Not objecting to the advice here mind you, just saying that everytime an @ is used you might not actually want them neccesarily botherd by notifications of it.

Kudos for a mod giving advice like that in a thread though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Some normal camera pics soon. iPhone led darkside white leds for now. Painted heatsinks on the Asus pro wifi z97 came out good and no temp difference. Need to tidy up wires, get sleeved cables slightly longer and remove leds on he sound card.


You really matched that paint colour well there... I had to look twice to actually see that it was in fact a plate and not fluid leaking from the res


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The question is if your cooling performance is actually better than if you just had the 280mm ...
> 
> I have 15 approx 120x60mm radiator squared in my build and if I leave the D5s running for an hour with no fans the water temperature rises. That's just the pumps, no CPU, mobo or the GPU blocks


With my 360x120x45mm rad I can run fanless for quite a while doing low power tasks, but anything high power is out of the question. So my guess is that his 420mm rad is doing something but not a whole lot.

Seems like a waste of money and space to me.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I see you have Fans on one of the Rads. That wasn't the question you presented. It was Passive Cooling. In this case you have Fans blowing heat off of the Rads Correct?
> 
> TCO


yeah, you´re right what you said. ehmm....I´m sorry TCO & BNEGATIVE









srsly I´m not getting it. Why shouldn´t hot air leave the rad space and get up? So confused...
I´m not stupid but, hot air is light. I thought about simple physics

when I use a fan, hot air will be blown into fan direction for few cm´s...usually the hot air on the top should leave the case without trouble.

whatever, time to sleep now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> With my 360x120x45mm rad I can run fanless for quite a while doing low power tasks, but anything high power is out of the question. So my guess is that his 420mm rad is doing something but not a whole lot.
> 
> Seems like a waste of money and space to me.


what do you mean? I mean there could be air inside and my 420mm rad doesnt work very effectivly. I don´t know but I suspect that.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> yeah, you´re right what you said. ehmm....I´m sorry TCO & BNEGATIVE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> srsly I´m not getting it. Why shouldn´t hot air leave the rad space and get up? So confused...
> I´m not stupid but, hot air is light. I thought about simple physics
> 
> when I use a fan, hot air will be blown into fan direction for few cm´s...usually the hot air on the top should leave the case without trouble.
> 
> whatever, time to sleep now.
> what do you mean? I mean there could be air inside and my 420mm rad doesnt work very effectivly. I don´t know but I suspect that.


It does to some degree, bot not nearly fast enough to handle the amount of heat produced. This would be with rads that are designed to be actively cooled mind you, passive rads is a whole different question.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> It does to some degree, bot not nearly fast enough to handle the amount of heat produced. This would be with rads that are designed to be actively cooled mind you, passive rads is a whole different question.


I would say the front rad has this problem and not the one at the top...or?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I would say the front rad has this problem and not the one at the top...or?


The fin density of active rads is simply to high to be able to be effectively cooled by air moving around. That said, I have seen people do several big radiators and simply set up a profile in speedfan for the fans to turn off when at idle. So something like 2 480 rads with 16 active fans when the PC is under load and just having 2 or 4 of the fans on while at idle.

Otherwise... running radiators that is constructed for fans without them is not exactly the best idea since you won't get nearly enough of the cooling potential out of them. They will cool some due to regualr air movement in a case or in a room, but not even close to what they regularily would (think 300w cooling potential vs 10-30w here...). If you are really set on the idea of passive rads then there are those that are made for it, but they tend to require strong pumps as far as I know.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The fin density of active rads is simply to high to be able to be effectively cooled by air moving around. That said, I have seen people do several big radiators and simply set up a profile in speedfan for the fans to turn off when at idle. So something like 2 480 rads with 16 active fans when the PC is under load and just having 2 or 4 of the fans on while at idle.
> 
> Otherwise... running radiators that is constructed for fans without them is not exactly the best idea since you won't get nearly enough of the cooling potential out of them. They will cool some due to regualr air movement in a case or in a room, but not even close to what they regularily would (think 300w cooling potential vs 10-30w here...). If you are really set on the idea of passive rads then there are those that are made for it, but they tend to require strong pumps as far as I know.


Not necessarily... I have a 5820k at high 30s (c) with a slim 360 rad and my EK dcp 2.2 at 1050 RPM while surfing the web. Gaming might be a different story, but it is feasible without buying special hardware.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Not necessarily... I have a 5820k at high 30s (c) with a slim 360 rad and my EK dcp 2.2 at 1050 RPM while surfing the web. Gaming might be a different story, but it is feasible without buying special hardware.


I agree, hence why I mentioned what a some people do on idle. Surfing the web adn the likes is about as taxing as idle for a 5820k to be honest (or at least far closer than what full load would be). It also depends a lot on the flow of air that you have around the radiator. Having a fan blowing in that direction or generally having a positive pressure in the case will force air to be pushed through the fins even without a fan blowing at it directly above it. Still, you won't get anywhere near the performance of a radiator where you haev the fanms blowing on it at all times, and the sugestion for passive rads is simply to show that it's an option (although terribly impractical compared to low rpm fans when using the system at full power. Having nothing but regular rads with no fans on them will give some amount of cooling ofcourse, but I doubt they would be as effective as a radiator designed for that exact purpose.

That said, I have no doubt that something like in the setup mention with a 420mm without fans and a 280mm with fans does cool the system. Still I'm doubting that the 420 actually is as effective as it could be in this system, it may be slightly better than the single 280, but I'm guessing you would get better performance in teh entire system with just a single 360mm on fans. So at least in my mind the 420mm is jsut wasted money unless some fans is used on it. Still, it's not like this is my rig, so people should be able to do what they want to.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys I seem to be having an issue flushing out my radiator. I have given it about 10+ flushes and I can still see some crap coming out of it. Is this normal or is something wrong with my rad? The radiator is a 560GTS from hardware labs.


I have the 560GTS in my SMA8, and I don't recall I had any issues with this. I used Mayhems Blitz, so not sure if maybe you should try that as well?


----------



## ali13245

This is what keeps coming out of the radiator every time I flush it:




Its like blue(ish) material. Did you get that when flushing your rad?

I have contacted Hardware labs, and they told me that my situation is very odd and this a very rare issue.


----------



## alltheGHz

No, I just got some black residue... That may be a problem, is it used? The blue stuff may be leftover dried coolant from the last build if so.


----------



## ali13245

Exactly, I got rid of pretty much all the black residue. No matter how many times I flush this blue stuff will ALWAYS come out.. At this point I feel like I need to have the radiators replaced. I also find it very odd that the same thing is happening for both of the rads.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, I'm worried these aren't "normal" temps for my CPU. I'm running my EK DCP 2.2 at ~1000 RPM and 2 of my noctuas at ~ 800 RPM on a slim 360 rad. Yes, that is right, one spot is passively cooled. Are these temps a bit high? No I am not stress testing, this is just doing normal web surfing.


----------



## kizwan

What is your water temp? Or ambient temp? Without these info, I'm guessing that temps look ok.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Are these temps a bit high?


How much lower could they be without using something exotic? Temps you posted are fine as far as idle is concerned. Why post temps without stressing?


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Is vinegar easy to remove after I flush? I don't want it stuck in my rads especially the smell.


Who cares about the smell. Flushing with distilled will dilute the smell a bit. Let the 4:1 vin/water mix sit in your rad completely filled for about 6-8 hrs. shake it throughout periodically.

The vin will eat away at the flux and oxidation after contact with it for a few hours. Shake to loosen it, let it sit, repeat.

You can always get the Blitz kit from Mayhem like the other people have recommended. I had issues with my EK rads having alot of machining and flux left in them and the vinegar process got rid of it for me.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yeah... bay reservoir.
> I've had that to but I ended up just taking it out and switching to a proper res/top. I don't know about your case, but I've only read about people having vibration issues with bay reservoirs. I tried everything: loosening the screws, putting some lamptron isolation between it and the case. Didn't help.
> 
> Can't see it very well in the pictures but it looks like you have some room in the basement of your case. Best bet would be to try and mount the pump there with proper decoupling.
> 
> Don't want to spoil anything but that is my opinion.


I have recently actually figured out how to make my bay res silent. Turned the d5 down to the lowest setting possible. I have a bay res and a tube res attached to the motherboard tray. With the bay res turned off, the d5 in the tube res is arguably worse.

BUT, when I turn both pumps to lowest setting (both of them are varios) the build is virtually silent and I'm getting about 150 litres per hour flow.

Edit: One weird thing we discovered is that with the Bay res above the tube res... the tube eventually fills up and the bay res level drops as a result.

The level of the tube res is now full and started out like this. I still haven't topped off, though. It seems to have hit equilibrium and I'm not getting noises so I'm just leaving it for now. It's like the tube is just a giant fitting in this config.


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I'm worried these aren't "normal" temps for my CPU. I'm running my EK DCP 2.2 at ~1000 RPM and 2 of my noctuas at ~ 800 RPM on a slim 360 rad. Yes, that is right, one spot is passively cooled. Are these temps a bit high? No I am not stress testing, this is just doing normal web surfing.


your temps are fine at idle their lower then mine atm
what are your temps under load if they are around 50-60c your good


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Exactly, I got rid of pretty much all the black residue. No matter how many times I flush this blue stuff will ALWAYS come out.. At this point I feel like I need to have the radiators replaced. I also find it very odd that the same thing is happening for both of the rads.


I had that blue tiny particles in mine too. I figured after 10 flushes that was enough as I wasn't getting any black particles anymore and I was tired of filling and shaking. Whatever was left isn't affecting my loop at all.

Edit: I did do an initial full loop cleaning with Primochill SysPrep for 8 hrs. I didn't check that water when I drained it. Could have been that worked more out.


----------



## ali13245

I'm going to hold off on vinegar, until hardware labs get back to me regarding this issue. I just want to know what these blue particles are and whether they will affect the loop at all?


----------



## RnRollie

Those blue particles... without a microscope and/or spectroscope... who knows?
It *could* be copper oxidation "flakes".. it could be paint flakes.. it could be the remains of the carapace of a beetle crunched to death...









Keep us posted


----------



## surfinchina

For fun I would do my own flame test.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flame_test


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I'm going to hold off on vinegar, until hardware labs get back to me regarding this issue. I just want to know what these blue particles are and whether they will affect the loop at all?


They are going to affect the loop 100% and need to be removed. This will clog up your blocks forsure. Stop fighting the vinegar.. Give in to it then thank me later.


----------



## ali13245

Hmm... I guess at this point Im willing to try anything :/. Does it have to be distilled vinegar or will regular vinegar work?


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hmm... I guess at this point Im willing to try anything :/. Does it have to be distilled vinegar or will regular vinegar work?


Distilled. Fill your rad completely with your mixture of 4:1 ( Distilled Water / Distilled Vin ). Use your caps and screw them into place. Shake the daylights out of it. Let it sit for 2 hrs. Shake the daylights out of it. Sit ... You get the idea. I let the mixture sit in mine for about 8 hrs total.

This was the best option for me that worked since I didnt wanna peel $40 for the Mayhems Blitz kit.

Regular water or anything for that matter can cause oxidation ect. That is why Distilled or DI is always used for water loops.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Distilled. Fill your rad completely with your mixture of 4:1 ( Distilled Water / Distilled Vin ). Use your caps and screw them into place. Shake the daylights out of it. Let it sit for 2 hrs. Shake the daylights out of it. Sit ... You get the idea. I let the mixture sit in mine for about 8 hrs total.
> 
> Regular water or anything for that matter can cause oxidation ect. That is why Distilled or DI is always used for water loops.


Alright man thanks. Ill try that and report back.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Distilled. Fill your rad completely with your mixture of 4:1 ( Distilled Water / Distilled Vin ). Use your caps and screw them into place. Shake the daylights out of it. Let it sit for 2 hrs. Shake the daylights out of it. Sit ... You get the idea. I let the mixture sit in mine for about 8 hrs total.
> 
> This was the best option for me that worked since I didnt wanna peel $40 for the Mayhems Blitz kit.
> 
> Regular water or anything for that matter can cause oxidation ect. That is why Distilled or DI is always used for water loops.


Only reason people use distilled is A, its non conductive. B. isn't full of minerals and other junk that will clog your loop/micro channels. Oxidation is usually only an issue if your mix and match metal in your loop, such as copper and aluminum.

For cleaning radiators, I've always used hydrochloric acid, diluted of course . Lemon Juice (or Citric Acid) and Vinegar (or Acetic Acid)are two house hold acids you can use which work rather well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I'm going to hold off on vinegar, until hardware labs get back to me regarding this issue. I just want to know what these blue particles are and whether they will affect the loop at all?
> 
> 
> 
> They are going to affect the loop 100% and need to be removed. This will clog up your blocks forsure. Stop fighting the vinegar.. Give in to it then thank me later.
Click to expand...

They will not effect the loop and using acids only strips the protective oxide layer off,the flux is water soluble anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hmm... I guess at this point Im willing to try anything :/. Does it have to be distilled vinegar or will regular vinegar work?
> 
> 
> 
> Distilled. Fill your rad completely with your mixture of 4:1 ( Distilled Water / Distilled Vin ). Use your caps and screw them into place. Shake the daylights out of it. Let it sit for 2 hrs. Shake the daylights out of it. Sit ... You get the idea. I let the mixture sit in mine for about 8 hrs total.
> 
> This was the best option for me that worked since I didnt wanna peel $40 for the Mayhems Blitz kit.
> 
> Regular water or anything for that matter can cause oxidation ect. That is why Distilled or DI is always used for water loops.
Click to expand...

And DI doesnt cause oxidation? Lel. We use DI because its demineralized and doesnt fur up.
Leave the rad port side up under a hot tap and leave it for 20 mins,clean rads,job done.

Also,do not use HCL unless you want to sweep up the bits of rad later.....


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They will not effect the loop and using acids only strips the protective oxide layer off,the flux is water soluble anyway.
> And DI doesnt oxidation? Lel. We use DI because its demineralized and doesnt fur up.
> Leave the rad port side up under a hot tap and leave it for 20 mins,clean rads,job done.
> 
> Also,do not use HCL unless you want to sweep up the bits of rad later.....


since I feel your post is directed towards my previous post. Distilled water is not demineralized, not sure what you mean by fur. Distilled water is water which has been boiled. The steam is then collected and cooled. The act of going to a gaseous phase leaves behind impurities in the water.

You can use hydrochloric acid just fine. Just make sure to dilute it. The molarity of hydrochloric acid is like 12.1, the strength of solution I use has a molarity of 1-2. For obvious reasons if you don't understand this then you will end up with bits of radiator, and quite possibly worse. If not comfortable just use vinegar or lemon juice both a mild acids which will do the job as well.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They will not effect the loop and using acids only strips the protective oxide layer off,the flux is water soluble anyway.
> And DI doesnt oxidation? Lel. We use DI because its demineralized and doesnt fur up.
> Leave the rad port side up under a hot tap and leave it for 20 mins,clean rads,job done.
> 
> Also,do not use HCL unless you want to sweep up the bits of rad later.....


Wait so your saying the materials that are in the pic I posted below will not affect the loop? I sent the photo to hardware labs and they said that the blue material "looks like plastic ribbons there's nothing in the production process or raw materials used that would resemble that".


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They will not effect the loop and using acids only strips the protective oxide layer off,the flux is water soluble anyway.
> And DI doesnt oxidation? Lel. We use DI because its demineralized and doesnt fur up.
> Leave the rad port side up under a hot tap and leave it for 20 mins,clean rads,job done.
> 
> Also,do not use HCL unless you want to sweep up the bits of rad later.....
> 
> 
> 
> since I feel your post is directed towards my previous post. Distilled water is not demineralized, not sure what you mean by fur. Distilled water is water which has been boiled. The steam is then collected and cooled. The act of going to a gaseous phase leaves behind impurities in the water.
> 
> You can use hydrochloric acid just fine. Just make sure to dilute it. The molarity of hydrochloric acid is like 12.1, the strength of solution I use has a molarity of 1-2. For obvious reasons if you don't understand this then you will end up with bits of radiator, and quite possibly worse. If not comfortable just use vinegar or lemon juice both a mild acids which will do the job as well.
Click to expand...

So,Distilled is not demineralized even tho in the very same sentance you claim it leaves impurities behind in the distilling process?

Di and Distilled both have the scaling agents removed.

Again,and this is for the umpteenth time....you do not need to use acids to clean rads,the flux is water soluble and the oxide layer you are so keen to get rid of is a protective layer that does not impact performance in the slightest. Using HCL in a rad is not bright at all,the solder will react even at low concentrations,i know this because I have tried it.


----------



## Dave6531

Got a question for you all. Just ordered the bulk of the fitting and blocks for water loop but am looking to add a flow indicator and I know they dont do a lot of good and restrict a little flow but hoping in my loop that wont be enough to even be noticeable. Part of the reason I'm looking to add one is to place in the middle of one of my long runs that will have a few bends in it which would be easier to manage if were shorter sections. Right now options look like bitspower and primochill any others where the liquid is visible that you recommend?



Just for reference its there along the side of the front rad


----------



## Origondoo

My new and a very slowly progressing (since it should be perfect) build started











After all the discussions here about the cleaning of the rads...

Ready for action


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I'm worried these aren't "normal" temps for my CPU. I'm running my EK DCP 2.2 at ~1000 RPM and 2 of my noctuas at ~ 800 RPM on a slim 360 rad. Yes, that is right, one spot is passively cooled. Are these temps a bit high? No I am not stress testing, this is just doing normal web surfing.


See normal to me. I read plenty of threads of people saying they had low 20s in a 72f degree room with a h100i on there i7s yet I have 480 and a 360 and my 4790k 4.7 1.28v idles 33-35. At occt stress test load 60-62 (with a spike here or there to 67 on hottest core; fans 800 rpm idle 1800 load) Also off topic from the quote can some tell me what tubing works best with the bitspower c47s (I believe that's what they are called) I plan to switch to these fitting as someone made a good point that the primochill petg with the revolver fittings look alittle off. Thanks on advance. Also I assume a simple debuting and sanding is all that is needed to fit a tube in the c47 fittings?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> yeah, you´re right what you said. ehmm....I´m sorry TCO & BNEGATIVE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> srsly I´m not getting it. Why shouldn´t hot air leave the rad space and get up? So confused...
> I´m not stupid but, hot air is light. I thought about simple physics
> 
> when I use a fan, hot air will be blown into fan direction for few cm´s...usually the hot air on the top should leave the case without trouble.
> 
> .


Heat Rises. This is 100% true.

I would like to First say to clear the air (Pun Intended) that If I built a watercooled loop and decided to run it passive, I might as well not have a watercooled loop and just run my Computer Air Cooled.
The Point of the Rad is to pass fluid through and have a source of force (Fan) to push the heat accumulated in the radiator, OUT.

The Clock Speed of the Processor at Idle (800-1200 Mhz) Uses around 1.0Core V (Give or take what you have the BIOS Settings at), This means the Processor is not dumping excess amounts of heat into the loop compared to running a game at Full throttle or 3900mhz - 4.5ghz (Whatever your Overclock may be dialed in at)

If the Front radiator has no intake, and the top Radiator of your Loop has no way to intake cool air as well, you are essentially creating a sweat box if running the computer/ processor at a high clock speed. The Only way ( I would imagine ) that heat could be moved around at this point is by the pump or flow of fluid, in which case, it's only being moved around, not dissipated. In turn the Rads (Metal) would become hot and start dumping heat into the case, then you would be relying on the Exhaust fan of the Case to Pull the Heat out. And that would not be enough to sustain a high overclock of Graphics cards, Processors... Etc.

How far do you think a vehicle could last without an intake at a stop light, Idling, before you overheat? 1hour?
Now how about if you were at the same stop light in park with your foot on the gas, just reving the rpms of the car to 4000 rpm? 2min maybe?

TCO


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,Distilled is not demineralized even tho in the very same sentance you claim it leaves impurities behind in the distilling process?
> 
> Di and Distilled both have the scaling agents removed.
> 
> Again,and this is for the umpteenth time....you do not need to use acids to clean rads,the flux is water soluble and the oxide layer you are so keen to get rid of is a protective layer that does not impact performance in the slightest. Using HCL in a rad is not bright at all,the solder will react even at low concentrations,i know this because I have tried it.


Demineralization is a process just like distillation, that process is not used to make distilled water. Understand? IE you cannot demineralize something which has no minerals in it already.

Oxidation does actually hurt performance though albeit not much. Solder does not react to 1 molar hydrochloric acid, nor does it react to other weak acids such as lemon juice or vinegar. I won't go off on a tangent explaining how acids work.

Lastly if you care to continue to discuss this, then I ask you spend a bit more time on your writing as your grammar is quite hard to understand.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Demineralization is a process just like distillation, that process is not used to make distilled water. Understand? IE you cannot demineralize something which has no minerals in it already.
> 
> Oxidation does actually hurt performance though albeit not much. Solder does not react to 1 molar hydrochloric acid, nor does it react to other weak acids such as lemon juice or vinegar. I won't go off on a tangent explaining how acids work.
> 
> Lastly if you care to continue to discuss this, then I ask you spend a bit more time on your writing as your grammar is quite terrible.


Please produce some facts and references for your thesis also you where doing so well until you pointed out his grammar like that detracts from what he is saying, if he is correct in what he is in fact saying then grammar plays no part.


----------



## willemdoom

Is it me or does this discussion arise every ~3 weeks


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Is it me or does this discussion arise every ~3 weeks


Really wouldn't surprise me, tbh I simply don't care anymore, I've had no issues so far with DI water and some anti algae growth stuff.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Is it me or does this discussion arise every ~3 weeks


Tis of No Concern to some, others, Very Much So.

TCO


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> someone made a good point that the primochill petg with the revolver fittings look alittle off.


They look a little off when used with the 90s, used on their own I think they look fine. I think it's seeing them "suspended" on the end of the 90s that's the issue.

I love them (I'll have another build with them soon)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Is it me or does this discussion arise every ~3 weeks


Consider some of us are roaming here since 2011.


----------



## Domler

I brought an apple. I feel like class is about to start. I don't mean to offend, but I'll trusts bnegs years of expertise.

It's kinda like watching someone tell chip foose that he's doing it wrong.


----------



## derickwm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block

U liek?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I brought an apple. I feel like class is about to start. I don't mean to offend, but I'll trusts bnegs years of expertise.
> 
> It's kinda like watching someone tell chip foose that he's doing it wrong.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,Distilled is not demineralized even tho in the very same sentance you claim it leaves impurities behind in the distilling process?
> 
> Di and Distilled both have the scaling agents removed.
> 
> *Again,and this is for the umpteenth time....you do not need to use acids to clean rads*,the flux is water soluble and the oxide layer you are so keen to get rid of is a protective layer that does not impact performance in the slightest. Using HCL in a rad is not bright at all,the solder will react even at low concentrations,i know this because I have tried it.


This all day long..... I have never ever (apart from the time I did the Mayhems Blitz Review for the Specialtech forums) used any form of acid additive to clean out rads in several years of watercooling & writing reviews for various past radiators... I've only ever flushed out using our household kitchen sink tap then running a little Di or Dis through & jobs done... I've never had any issues with coolant loosing it's colour or turning the tube cloudy after a short period to few months....









Nam....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,Distilled is not demineralized even tho in the very same sentance you claim it leaves impurities behind in the distilling process?
> 
> Di and Distilled both have the scaling agents removed.
> 
> Again,and this is for the umpteenth time....you do not need to use acids to clean rads,the flux is water soluble and the oxide layer you are so keen to get rid of is a protective layer that does not impact performance in the slightest. Using HCL in a rad is not bright at all,the solder will react even at low concentrations,i know this because I have tried it.
> 
> 
> 
> Demineralization is a process just like distillation, that process is not used to make distilled water. Understand? IE you cannot demineralize something which has no minerals in it already.
> 
> Oxidation does actually hurt performance though albeit not much. Solder does not react to 1 molar hydrochloric acid, nor does it react to other weak acids such as lemon juice or vinegar. I won't go off on a tangent explaining how acids work.
> 
> Lastly if you care to continue to discuss this, then I ask you spend a bit more time on your writing as your grammar is on your writing as your grammar is quite terrible.
Click to expand...

Sorry English is not your first language...

Oxidization does NOTHING to impair performance,not a thing. I ask you to provide proof of measurable temp differences of an oxidized block in a loop.

Dear God...Right....The very process of distillation de-mineralizes the water,at no point did I say different. At no point did I say that the De ionizing process is used to make distilled water,I even make the distinction between DI and Distilled in that post.

Lastly, if my grammar offends you then feel free to leave my thread.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?


Yus.....does it work tho? Are those SSD's even needing a block?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?
> 
> 
> 
> Yus.....does it work tho? Are those SSD's even needing a block?
Click to expand...

Much to my surprise, yes. Intel asked us to make this block for them and through even my own testing found that these cards get quite toasty if no airflow is going over them. It's for those of us that water cool, have the SSD sandwiched between multiple GPUs, and are using low airflow cases. And of course those of us that are just a little nuts


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?
> 
> 
> 
> Yus.....does it work tho? Are those SSD's even needing a block?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Much to my surprise, yes. Intel asked us to make this block for them and through even my own testing found that these cards get quite toasty if no airflow is going over them. It's for those of us that water cool, have the SSD sandwiched between multiple GPUs, and are using low airflow cases. And of course those of us that are just a little nuts
Click to expand...

I would buy it,I waterblocked a fan controller,why not an SSD as well......

I draw the line at RAM tho.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?
> 
> 
> 
> Yus.....does it work tho? Are those SSD's even needing a block?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Much to my surprise, yes. Intel asked us to make this block for them and through even my own testing found that these cards get quite toasty if no airflow is going over them. It's for those of us that water cool, have the SSD sandwiched between multiple GPUs, and are using low airflow cases. And of course those of us that are just a little nuts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would buy it,I waterblocked a fan controller,why not an SSD as well......
> 
> I draw the line at RAM tho.
Click to expand...

A lot of people probably won't realize that this water block is actually a lot more beneficial than say a RAM block. Though, those still using Skulltrail may argue that case haha. I've never had RAM that required active cooling of some sort in order to be stable...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?
> 
> 
> 
> Yus.....does it work tho? Are those SSD's even needing a block?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Much to my surprise, yes. Intel asked us to make this block for them and through even my own testing found that these cards get quite toasty if no airflow is going over them. It's for those of us that water cool, have the SSD sandwiched between multiple GPUs, and are using low airflow cases. And of course those of us that are just a little nuts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would buy it,I waterblocked a fan controller,why not an SSD as well......
> 
> I draw the line at RAM tho.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A lot of people probably won't realize that this water block is actually a lot more beneficial than say a RAM block. Though, those still using Skulltrail may argue that case haha. I've never had RAM that required active cooling of some sort in order to be stable...
Click to expand...

I dunno D,I had some toasty DDR/2....DDR4 doesnt even get warm.....

I get the feeling Intel may have rushed that SSD a little if it has cooling concerns.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?
> 
> 
> 
> Yus.....does it work tho? Are those SSD's even needing a block?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Much to my surprise, yes. Intel asked us to make this block for them and through even my own testing found that these cards get quite toasty if no airflow is going over them. It's for those of us that water cool, have the SSD sandwiched between multiple GPUs, and are using low airflow cases. And of course those of us that are just a little nuts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would buy it,I waterblocked a fan controller,why not an SSD as well......
> 
> I draw the line at RAM tho.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A lot of people probably won't realize that this water block is actually a lot more beneficial than say a RAM block. Though, those still using Skulltrail may argue that case haha. I've never had RAM that required active cooling of some sort in order to be stable...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I dunno D,I had some toasty DDR/2....DDR4 doesnt even get warm.....
> 
> I get the feeling Intel may have rushed that SSD a little if it has cooling concerns.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm saying with the Skulltrail bit, DDR2 was some toasty stuff that's for sure.

The concerns aren't anything to be worried about for most. It pretty much only applies to us that have huge cases, liquid cool, and may not have the best airflow between sandwiched cards. In the grand scheme of things, pretty small crowd.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> This is what keeps coming out of the radiator every time I flush it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its like blue(ish) material. Did you get that when flushing your rad?
> 
> I have contacted Hardware labs, and they told me that my situation is very odd and this a very rare issue.


See if they will swap you with a new set that way they can use these for research purpose.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?


I likes, but why not make it sit in line with gpu in/outs ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I likes, but why not make it sit in line with gpu in/outs ?
Click to expand...

The terminal length would look terribad tho......

Why not direct ports rather than the 90 terminal? It would of been much better looking overall and better to plumb in..


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Sorry English is not your first language...
> 
> Oxidization does NOTHING to impair performance,not a thing. I ask you to provide proof of measurable temp differences of an oxidized block in a loop.
> 
> Dear God...Right....The very process of distillation de-mineralizes the water,at no point did I say different. At no point did I say that the De ionizing process is used to make distilled water,I even make the distinction between DI and Distilled in that post.
> 
> Lastly, if my grammar offends you then feel free to leave my thread.


You should not assume things about my origins. Use of poor grammar in a discussion will not help anyone understand you and only displays ignorance.

Oxidization of any metal will affect its thermal properties. You may think I am overplaying this, but it is true. I think what you mean to say, is that you would be hard pressed to measure a difference in a water cooled computer. Scale up the application and it's a VERY REAL PROBLEM. I cannot tell you how important it is to keep HTF (heat transfer fluid) oxide free in various other applications.

You need to stop assuming I am attacking you, and start thinking a little harder about the scope of your knowledge.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The terminal length would look terribad tho......
> 
> Why not direct ports rather than the 90 terminal? It would of been much better looking overall and better to plumb in..


You mean like this:

Just one of the images taken from the thread in question http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?
> 
> 
> 
> I likes, but why not make it sit in line with gpu in/outs ?
Click to expand...

Every GPU is different, it'd be impossible 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I likes, but why not make it sit in line with gpu in/outs ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The terminal length would look terribad tho......
> 
> Why not direct ports rather than the 90 terminal? It would of been much better looking overall and better to plumb in..
Click to expand...

Do you mean like this? 










Both are included!

Edit: Haha and I was ninja'd!


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> See if they will swap you with a new set that way they can use these for research purpose.


Exactly what I just did. I just emailed them a couple of minutes ago, and they said they will be replacing the radiators


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry English is not your first language...
> 
> Oxidization does NOTHING to impair performance,not a thing. I ask you to provide proof of measurable temp differences of an oxidized block in a loop.
> 
> Dear God...Right....The very process of distillation de-mineralizes the water,at no point did I say different. At no point did I say that the De ionizing process is used to make distilled water,I even make the distinction between DI and Distilled in that post.
> 
> Lastly, if my grammar offends you then feel free to leave my thread.
> 
> 
> 
> *You should not assume things about my origins.* Use of poor grammar in a discussion will not help anyone understand you and only displays ignorance.
> 
> Oxidization of any metal will affect its thermal properties. You may think I am overplaying this, but it is true. *I think what you mean to say, is that you would be hard pressed to measure a difference in a water cooled computer. Scale up the application and it's a VERY REAL PROBLEM.* I cannot tell you how important it is to keep HTF (heat transfer fluid) oxide free in various other applications.
> 
> You need to stop assuming I am attacking you, and start thinking a little harder about the scope of your knowledge.
Click to expand...

Its called sarcasm.

Seeing as this whole thread is about waterloops,its safe to assume that any comment made is in reference to that sphere of use,I can imagine it is a very real issue in other applications,we are not talking about those however,therefore they dont have any place in this discussion.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So.. heh with fear of reviving the discussion here... What is the concensus on flushing rads with tapwater and then cleaning them out with distilled or demineralized water? Just curious since these Nexxxos rads of mine takes a long time to clean out, so hooking them up to my tap for half an hour or so would significantly reduce the hazzle. Not that I'm all that serious about it anyways since I know for a fact that the tap water here is slightly hard.


----------



## kizwan

Using tap water to flush rads is fine. Hooking up rad to tap does speeding up the flushing process. Before flushing with distilled water for final rinse, I also filled the rad with hot water (& shake it). I trust Martin.

*Edit:* Forgot to mention one important thing. Be careful with household water pressure because if the water pressure is too much it can damage the rad. Like BNEG mentioned below, do not fully open the tap.


----------



## russ18uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> You should not assume things about my origins. Use of poor grammar in a discussion will not help anyone understand you and only displays ignorance.
> 
> Oxidization of any metal will affect its thermal properties. You may think I am overplaying this, but it is true. I think what you mean to say, is that you would be hard pressed to measure a difference in a water cooled computer. Scale up the application and it's a VERY REAL PROBLEM. I cannot tell you how important it is to keep HTF (heat transfer fluid) oxide free in various other applications.
> 
> You need to stop assuming I am attacking you, and start thinking a little harder about the scope of your knowledge.


The difference is going to be as negligible as using a nickel plating.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Using tap water to flush rads is fine. Hooking up rad to tap does speeding up the flushing process. Before flushing with distilled water for final rinse, I also filled the rad with hot water (& shake it). I trust Martin.


Well that's good to know, I did my previous rads by boiling up distilled and shaking them like a martini shaker. Since I got some "new" (used actually) rads now I figured I should give them a rinse before putting them in the loop to, and not having to go through 5 or 6 refills of the rads while rinsing really speeds things up. Or rather it means I can do other stuff while the tap does the work for me


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Using tap water to flush rads is fine. Hooking up rad to tap does speeding up the flushing process. Before flushing with distilled water for final rinse, I also filled the rad with hot water (& shake it). I trust Martin.


Dont go full bore with the tap,the rad tubes are really thin and can blow them out,this is not for you Kizwan as you already know obviously.

I use this method extensively.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Using tap water to flush rads is fine. Hooking up rad to tap does speeding up the flushing process. Before flushing with distilled water for final rinse, I also filled the rad with hot water (& shake it). I trust Martin.
> 
> 
> 
> *Dont go full bore with the tap*,the rad tubes are really thin and can blow them out,this is not for you Kizwan as you already know obviously.
> 
> I use this method extensively.
Click to expand...

Correct!







I forgot to mention this. Be careful with household water pressure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Using tap water to flush rads is fine. Hooking up rad to tap does speeding up the flushing process. Before flushing with distilled water for final rinse, I also filled the rad with hot water (& shake it). I trust Martin.
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's good to know, *I did my previous rads by boiling up distilled and shaking them like a martini shaker.* Since I got some "new" (used actually) rads now I figured I should give them a rinse before putting them in the loop to, and not having to go through 5 or 6 refills of the rads while rinsing really speeds things up. Or rather it means I can do other stuff while the tap does the work for me
Click to expand...

This has limited effect and holding a rad of boiling water is a menace enough. The tap generates the flow to shift the crap out in one direction....out.
I used to do all sorts of methods to get clean rads,the tap method won out overall for me,its simple and effective.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This has limited effect and holding a rad of boiling water is a menace enough. The tap generates the flow to shift the crap out in one direction....out.
> I used to do all sorts of methods to get clean rads,the tap method won out overall for me,its simple and effective.


Yeah, I was using oven mittons but Is till managed to get burned







So not having to do that again will really be for the best


----------



## Origondoo

I do not want to misuse this forum, but does some one uses Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000 PWM fans?
If yes, is it normal that those fans have kind of coile whine when controlled by PWM?

Please PM me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> I do not want to misuse this forum, but does some one uses Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000 PWM fans?
> If yes, is it normal that those fans have kind of coile whine when controlled by PWM?
> 
> Please PM me.


They shouldnt make any kind of whine,Noctua (Hail our prosthetic limb coloured overloards) pimp themselves as quiet fans quite hard.

What controller are you using? Do you have any others on the same feed?

Your best bet would be to talk to IT Diva,she has extensive working knowledge of PWM implementations


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> I do not want to misuse this forum, but does some one uses Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000 PWM fans?
> If yes, is it normal that those fans have kind of coile whine when controlled by PWM?
> 
> Please PM me.


That's new..
When? At 90%?, at 30%? Over the whole PWM range?

But yeah, it can depend on the controller also; what do you use?


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They shouldnt make any kind of whine,Noctua (Hail our prosthetic limb coloured overloards) pimp themselves as quiet fans quite hard.
> 
> What controller are you using? Do you have any others on the same feed?
> 
> Your best bet would be to talk to IT Diva,she has extensive working knowledge of PWM implementations


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> That's new..
> When? At 90%?, at 30%? Over the whole PWM range?
> 
> But yeah, it can depend on the controller also; what do you use?


Aquaero 5XT is the controller.
I see it in low range RPM ~600 rpm = 35%. But this effect is not or very slightly audible if I run the fans in rpm mode and same speed.

I also just retested the PWM and the noise (similar to coil whine) is present through the range. At some point the humming became dominant, but that's it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

In unrelated news.....

Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.

Then it goes to work.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Exactly what I just did. I just emailed them a couple of minutes ago, and they said they will be replacing the radiators


Cool. Glad it worked out in your favor. This also helps them and the community.


----------



## Origondoo

Here the noise of the fans.
All of them have this type of noise


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.


I saw the box when it came in, in another pic.

Do they have provisions to increase the bed size? Looks like a nice unit


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I hate you so much.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I hate you so much.


Me too. I really wish I have the money to buy one.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@B NEGATIVE

Figured I would mention that @Erso44 mentioned you and I in the same quote.

Kinda Feel like that Stallion status is starting to Arise in my Favor









Or it was a perfect opportunity to give you a hard time.



TCO


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can you tell us more about that mill? I have been researching the subject and my head is spinning with all the unconnected information I have unearthed. Knowing what you got and why would be incredibly useful!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. My jealousy meter is hitting redline right now.

Looking forward to seeing the what comes out of it.


----------



## fakeblood

My TJ07 getting another do over..


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> My TJ07 getting another do over..


11/10 subbed


----------



## jlakai

First Watercooled Build Complete.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> 
> 
> First Watercooled Build Complete.


That venting is a thing of beauty


----------



## TDEUS

Hi everyone
I think I'm ready to join the club.

Check out my _(Still ongoing)_ build log *HERE*

This is my first waterloop, and I think it is not going to be the last one.I'm happy to join the club.
Cheers
TDEUS


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.


Do you realize what you just did B? for the sake of the sanity of this forum and the security of their pockets don't show such images again B.. you are gonna cause so many divorces man


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576721/ek-is-releasing-intel-ssd-750-series-water-block
> 
> U liek?


Wth... my storage runs hotter than my gpu?... it does!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.
> 
> 
> 
> I saw the box when it came in, in another pic.
> 
> Do they have provisions to increase the bed size? Looks like a nice unit
Click to expand...

Yes,there is a 1m x 1m 'hop up' kit coming soon,perhaps an upgrade for later









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate you so much.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I hate you so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me too. I really wish I have the money to buy one.
Click to expand...

They are around $1600 for the kit,a spindle and associated clamps and tooling.

You can get in the queue,the haters one is quite long so it will take time to get to your ticket...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> 
> Figured I would mention that @Erso44 mentioned you and I in the same quote.
> 
> Kinda Feel like that Stallion status is starting to Arise in my Favor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or it was a perfect opportunity to give you a hard time.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


erm.....Yes?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you tell us more about that mill? I have been researching the subject and my head is spinning with all the unconnected information I have unearthed. Knowing what you got and why would be incredibly useful!
Click to expand...

I bought a Shapeoko 3,mainly as it cuts Alu like a champ,its expandable and has a strong community behind it.

Downsides for me is its belt drive,this is an upside for a beginner as machine crashes dont wreck the machine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. My jealousy meter is hitting redline right now.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the what comes out of it.
Click to expand...

If you can stretch into getting one then I think you would make good use of one. AUS$ probably means you would have to sell say......a kidney?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you realize what you just did B? for the sake of the sanity of this forum and the security of their pockets don't show such images again B.. you are gonna cause so many divorces man
Click to expand...

I had to build a workshop to put it in too....I had to,the wife was doing her nut at the carnage i was creating in the house,she wouldnt of liked me firing this up indoors.....


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,there is a 1m x 1m 'hop up' kit coming soon,perhaps an upgrade for later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are around $1600 for the kit,a spindle and associated clamps and tooling.
> 
> You can get in the queue,the haters one is quite long so it will take time to get to your ticket...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> erm.....Yes?
> I bought a Shapeoko 3,mainly as it cuts Alu like a champ,its expandable and has a strong community behind it.
> 
> Downsides for me is its belt drive,this is an upside for a beginner as machine crashes dont wreck the machine.
> If you can stretch into getting one then I think you would make good use of one. AUS$ probably means you would have to sell say......a kidney?
> I had to build a workshop to put it in too....I had to,the wife was doing her nut at the carnage i was creating in the house,she wouldnt of liked me firing this up indoors.....











Do you need a permanent connection to a PC, or can you control it from a USB thumb drive? BTW, what CAD and CAM software will you be using?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,there is a 1m x 1m 'hop up' kit coming soon,perhaps an upgrade for later


That'd be perfect! +1 for the info.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes,there is a 1m x 1m 'hop up' kit coming soon,perhaps an upgrade for later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are around $1600 for the kit,a spindle and associated clamps and tooling.
> 
> You can get in the queue,the haters one is quite long so it will take time to get to your ticket...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> erm.....Yes?
> I bought a Shapeoko 3,mainly as it cuts Alu like a champ,its expandable and has a strong community behind it.
> 
> Downsides for me is its belt drive,this is an upside for a beginner as machine crashes dont wreck the machine.
> If you can stretch into getting one then I think you would make good use of one. AUS$ probably means you would have to sell say......a kidney?
> I had to build a workshop to put it in too....I had to,the wife was doing her nut at the carnage i was creating in the house,she wouldnt of liked me firing this up indoors.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you need a permanent connection to a PC, or can you control it from a USB thumb drive? BTW, what CAD and CAM software will you be using?
Click to expand...

Sadly permanent connection...

I use Solidworks for the CAD and HSMWorks/CamBam for the CAM side of things.


----------



## snef

some pics of new build , The Necromancer,


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Wth... my storage runs hotter than my gpu?... it does!


I was thinking along the same line... Kind of Silly IMO, more so than water cooling RAM.....


----------



## Domler

Hi guys. Just got in my new sr2 multiports and I'm a lil nervous. The 360, on the side ports look cracked. Wondering what you pros think. Should I email ppcs? My pressure gauge won't be in till next week to text them. Thoughts?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Fill it up w/ end caps on and see if it leaks over 24 hours, only thing I can think of w/ out having access to a pressure gauge. If it's cracked through and not just a paint crack it should leak no matter what.


----------



## TPham

My new build, sorry the pictures was taken at night so it was dark


----------



## jlakai




----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new build, sorry the pictures was taken at night so it was dark


really great, i love it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wow! really great one

test fit with fans, motherboard, GPU and reservoir


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> really great, i love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow! really great one
> 
> test fit with fans, motherboard, GPU and reservoir


Awesome build! love the colors


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.


I could get seriously into one of these
























And about a grand in the US, plus another $100 for the router, so definitely time to start schmoozing Santa:

http://www.shapeoko.com/

Darlene


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> really great, i love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow! really great one
> 
> test fit with fans, motherboard, GPU and reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have to say, always love your minimal style. Especially this little bugger, like the green accent going on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I could get seriously into one of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And about a grand in the US, plus another $100 for the router, so definitely time to start schmoozing Santa:
> 
> http://www.shapeoko.com/
> 
> Darlene


A grand!? O boy, I think I know what going onto my list of things to buy once my sign up bonus ever shows up. Hmmm, think my current router be to big considering it a old used Craftsman one (actually built in the US) and heavy too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Really want one of those mills. Would be perfect for milling thick plexiglass sheets into usable panels for mods.









Think I will start saving my pennies for one.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Hi guys. Just got in my new sr2 multiports and I'm a lil nervous. The 360, on the side ports look cracked. Wondering what you pros think. Should I email ppcs? My pressure gauge won't be in till next week to text them. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


We all should expect better than that, whether it is leaky or not.
I would be contacting your retailer and gear up for RMA.


----------



## Ceadderman

Seconded. Sadly I couldn't see it closer on my phone. So I would suggest to prepare for RMA as well.

~Ceadder


----------



## Domler

Yeah. I kinda bummed. I have heard nothing but great things about HWL and especially the sr2. I have, but not used, an original 360 sr2. I was impressed. It's a beautiful rad. So I waited for the multiports for the other 360 and 240 as they would be perfect for what I want to do. The 240 I got today is perfect. The 360, it's hard to see on the thread, but if you click the pic, it's clear as day. Its the side ports where the stem meets the base. There both cracked. I thought about it for an hour and said, exchange it. It was pricy, and i know they are a good company. I asked myself, I am I comfortable with that possibly busting a leek over my expensive rig? Hell no. I know they are good, I feel bad for the guy on the fence who would never use them again because of it. I have contacted ppcs for an rma. Now I'm waiting for mayhems glass prebent 90's to hit state side. Then its on. I might even go 5930k over my excisting 4790k, well, just because. Thanks for the help as always guys and, build on.


----------



## Ceadderman

For some reason I only got the OP pic when I clicked on the quoted ones. Went to the original and much clearer see what you're referring to. It either appears the metal of the tank(if bungless) was too thin or (if it has bungs soldered to the tank) the soldering was botched. That should never have passed the inspection after final assembly imho. It's possible that the inspection process busted it too. So yeah that's a RMA for sure. No way that radiator holds water at this point.

I too own HWLabs, and while manufacturing issues do appear about 3-5 for every hundred manufactured am a bit disappointed that one got past the door.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> Mill is built and works great,just need to move it to the workshop,get the replacement 10mm ALU bed,fit the spindle and true it all up.
> 
> Then it goes to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could get seriously into one of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And about a grand in the US, plus another $100 for the router, so definitely time to start schmoozing Santa:
> 
> http://www.shapeoko.com/
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

If you are thinking of getting one,don't use that Dewalt router they recommend,go for a proper spindle. You can get 800/1500/2200/3500w spindles on eBay which crap all over the Dewalt one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Good to know. Thanks B.









BTW do you have a recommended wattage/speed for a spindle?









~Ceadder


----------



## EpicOtis13

Hey Guys,
I am currently running my MCP50X's PWM control off of the CPU Fan header on my Gigabyte X99M-Gaming5, and it is way too loud. How do I make it run at lower speeds? It is driving me insane!


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> I am currently running my MCP50X's PWM control off of the CPU Fan header on my Gigabyte X99M-Gaming5, and it is way too loud. How do I make it run at lower speeds? It is driving me insane!


Set a silent fan profile in your BIOS?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good to know. Thanks B.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW do you have a recommended wattage/speed for a spindle?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good to know. Thanks B.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW do you have a recommended wattage/speed for a spindle?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Weight is the primary concern,the gantry load must be watched. I am using a 1.5kw spindle,aircooled for now,a water cooled one may be an upgrade later.
You don't want a spindle that overwhelms the chassis with power either.

Feed and spindle speeds are dynamic in relation to your materials,you can use a chip table to get in the ballpark,the rest comes with experience.


----------



## d3t0n8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Hi guys. Just got in my new sr2 multiports and I'm a lil nervous. The 360, on the side ports look cracked. Wondering what you pros think. Should I email ppcs? My pressure gauge won't be in till next week to text them. Thoughts?


That is likely just a cosmetic issue. Was the packaging in perfect condition when it arrived?

Those joints are brazed and will only shear off with extraordinary force, like you twisted the fittings on with a tire iron.

Run water through it overnight and see if it leaks. Send me a PM to update me of any developments.


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone here use xspc compression fittings? I have a couple of 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD fittings that I'll be using in my build and I have some concerns. Basically everytime I screw the fitting into a component it feels very rough like its cutting into the threads of the component that I'm screwing into. I screwed it into my bitspower splitter fitting and noticed it removed the paint on the outside of the threads and left some shavings after I took it out. Is this normal or do I need new fittings? The fitttings themselves are actually good and hold a tight seal against the tubing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone here use xspc compression fittings? I have a couple of 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD fittings that I'll be using in my build and I have some concerns. Basically everytime I screw the fitting into a component it feels very rough like its cutting into the threads of the component that I'm screwing into. I screwed it into my bitspower splitter fitting and noticed it removed the paint on the outside of the threads and left some shavings after I took it out. Is this normal or do I need new fittings? The fitttings themselves are actually good and hold a tight seal against the tubing.


I use the XSPC 3/8 x 1/2" in the Bottom of my SMA8 and Used the Spares I had in the S3 to connect the Res to the pump with soft tubing.



Never Really Gave me a Problem. They are Tight, don't get me wrong, but you would know if you were cross threading. I actually felt like they were cutting the soft tubing they felt so tight, but in reality, they were just doing there job.



In the bottom of the SMA8 I used the XSPC and Bitspower Compression fittings. I think I bought 4 sets of 4 XSPC Fittings for 60$? And the Bitspower were more like 4 fittings for 60$









TCO


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> really great, i love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow! really great one
> 
> test fit with fans, motherboard, GPU and reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome job as usual. Can't wait to see more of this build.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I use the XSPC 3/8 x 1/2" in the Bottom of my SMA8 and Used the Spares I had in the S3 to connect the Res to the pump with soft tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Never Really Gave me a Problem. They are Tight, don't get me wrong, but you would know if you were cross threading. I actually felt like they were cutting the soft tubing they felt so tight, but in reality, they were just doing there job.
> 
> 
> 
> In the bottom of the SMA8 I used the XSPC and Bitspower Compression fittings. I think I bought 4 sets of 4 XSPC Fittings for 60$? And the Bitspower were more like 4 fittings for 60$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I pretty much have the same fittings as you (the plain chrome version) the tubing isnt my issue. For example when screwing it into a radiator it chipped away some of the paint on the outer threading and feels very tight when screwing as if it is cross threading. Did you get a similar feeling?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I pretty much have the same fittings as you (the plain chrome version) the tubing isnt my issue. For example when screwing it into a radiator it chipped away some of the paint on the outer threading and feels very tight when screwing as if it is cross threading. Did you get a similar feeling?


No I haven't run into that issue. I'm guessing that they are G 1/4" fittings that you have purchased or else they wouldn't fit at all.









Wow, I really couldn't imagine what would cause that unless the fittings were actually made a couple mm to big.

TCO


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I use the XSPC 3/8 x 1/2" in the Bottom of my SMA8 and Used the Spares I had in the S3 to connect the Res to the pump with soft tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Never Really Gave me a Problem. They are Tight, don't get me wrong, but you would know if you were cross threading. I actually felt like they were cutting the soft tubing they felt so tight, but in reality, they were just doing there job.
> 
> 
> 
> In the bottom of the SMA8 I used the XSPC and Bitspower Compression fittings. I think I bought 4 sets of 4 XSPC Fittings for 60$? And the Bitspower were more like 4 fittings for 60$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Jeez seems like everyone else with a sma8 has a crazy complex flextube routing in the rad compartment. I have a simple hardtube setup in mine.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Jeez seems like everyone else with a sma8 has a crazy complex flextube routing in the rad compartment. I have a simple hardtube setup in mine.


For starters, your 240mm Rad in the Flex bay has tubing at the top of the Main bay, you didn't run the pumps through the floor, you are running the fluid parallel through the card but have an inlet and outlet at the top and bottom of the bridge . Hence about 6 holes that you didn't have to drill or run tubing from or to.

Gorgeous routing though that you were able to accomplish.

TCO


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> For starters, your 240mm Rad in the Flex bay has tubing at the top of the Main bay, you didn't run the pumps through the floor, you are running the fluid parallel through the card but have an inlet and outlet at the top and bottom of the bridge . Hence about 6 holes that you didn't have to drill or run tubing from or to.
> 
> Gorgeous routing though that you were able to accomplish.
> 
> TCO


I know, I'm like the odd one out of the sma8 bunch. I only had to drill one hole even though I didn't even plan it that way it all seemed to just work out luckily. I guess everyone designed their loops to drain easy (which wasn't a priority of mine) but while I might not be able to completely drain all fluids, I've easily been able to dismantle the loops after draining the reservoirs while any remaining fluid is contained in a non spill orientation inside the rads.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I know, I'm like the odd one out of the sma8 bunch. I only had to drill one hole even though I didn't even plan it that way it all seemed to just work out luckily. I guess everyone designed their loops to drain easy (which wasn't a priority of mine) but while I might not be able to completely drain all fluids, I've easily been able to dismantle the loops after draining the reservoirs while any remaining fluid is contained in a non spill orientation inside the rads.


Noone is an odd person when building in an SMA8. The options are really numerous of how to configure the loop (loops). A key point that you mentioned is draining. You might have been one of the few that doesn't want to change the colour or didn't have any leaks when testing the loop in question. I on the other hand, had a ton of water here, then there, then leak tested again, then there was more water







but an experience I wouldn't give up for the world. Though the placement of drains surely helped more than some know.

I do not like trying to take acrylic tubing out of a fitting that is seated. Most of the work that had to be done in the lower compartment required the removal of the 240mm in front of the PSU which needed a little play (Soft Tubing) and hard tubing would have been an absolute pain ( I would imagine) so that was a main reason of tubing the lower compartment all soft.

TCO


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone here use xspc compression fittings? I have a couple of 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD fittings that I'll be using in my build and I have some concerns. Basically everytime I screw the fitting into a component it feels very rough like its cutting into the threads of the component that I'm screwing into. I screwed it into my bitspower splitter fitting and noticed it removed the paint on the outside of the threads and left some shavings after I took it out. Is this normal or do I need new fittings? The fitttings themselves are actually good and hold a tight seal against the tubing.


XSPC fittings are a steal of a deal to me. The fittings have a tight fit (at least V1 does) - three years of using them and no leaks, no damaged component threads, and they are inexpensive. This system was torn down a few months back, the fittings still looked new inside and out with the finish fully intact. Like TCO mentioned, if they were cross-threading, you should be able to notice it fairly easily. Look at the threads in the component and see if those threads have debris or a chunk of something still attached (didn't cut free when threads were originally turned).

On a few fittings, I cut narrow strips of plumbers thread tape, applied it and the fittings turned in more easily.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Noone is an odd person when building in an SMA8. The options are really numerous of how to configure the loop (loops). A key point that you mentioned is draining. You might have been one of the few that doesn't want to change the colour or didn't have any leaks when testing the loop in question. I on the other hand, had a ton of water here, then there, then leak tested again, then there was more water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but an experience I wouldn't give up for the world. Though the placement of drains surely helped more than some know.
> 
> I do not like trying to take acrylic tubing out of a fitting that is seated. Most of the work that had to be done in the lower compartment required the removal of the 240mm in front of the PSU which needed a little play (Soft Tubing) and hard tubing would have been an absolute pain ( I would imagine) so that was a main reason of tubing the lower compartment all soft.
> 
> TCO


I surprisingly had zero leaks upon first test. Even though this was my first experience watercooling, I learned a ton, had a lot of fun but man, all the little details was a lot of work. Tubing up 12mm is a piece of cake to cut, bend, measure but the 16mm was really a pita. The upper and most restrictive part of my loop you can't tell but it is 70% aurora mixed with X1 that completely dropped out within 2 days. It's gonna be a blast changing that out. I do plan on changing colors but the reason why draining wasn't my priority when designing the loop is that I don't expect to change fluids enough to make it one. I just plan on draining what i can then running distilled into the res until most of the old fluid.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of new build , The Necromancer,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Striking!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone here use xspc compression fittings? I have a couple of 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD fittings that I'll be using in my build and I have some concerns. Basically everytime I screw the fitting into a component it feels very rough like its cutting into the threads of the component that I'm screwing into. I screwed it into my bitspower splitter fitting and noticed it removed the paint on the outside of the threads and left some shavings after I took it out. Is this normal or do I need new fittings? The fitttings themselves are actually good and hold a tight seal against the tubing.


Screwing into a component, rad/block/etc should be smooth. I'm using the same fittings (well V1 at least) and they are very tough compression fittings.

If you are screwing into a rad, there may be paint in the threads that you are having a problem with, which may feel like cross threading. If that is the case then work the fitting or another fitting into that g 1/4 hole back and forth until the paint is gone, then be sure to flush out the rad to get any paint chips that fell inside, out of it.

If they are removing paint from every fitting/rad/etc that you screw into that isn't good. Do you have any other fittings to compare the threading to? If they are visibly larger threads maybe?


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Screwing into a component, rad/block/etc should be smooth. I'm using the same fittings (well V1 at least) and they are very tough compression fittings.
> 
> If you are screwing into a rad, there may be paint in the threads that you are having a problem with, which may feel like cross threading. If that is the case then work the fitting or another fitting into that g 1/4 hole back and forth until the paint is gone, then be sure to flush out the rad to get any paint chips that fell inside, out of it.
> 
> If they are removing paint from every fitting/rad/etc that you screw into that isn't good. Do you have any other fittings to compare the threading to? If they are visibly larger threads maybe?


My primochill rigid revolver fittings go into every compoment very smoothly. When I screwed the xspx compression fitting into my ek multiport top it looked like this:


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> My primochill rigid revolver fittings go into every compoment very smoothly. When I screwed the xspx compression fitting into my ek multiport top it looked like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just clean it out.

THe problem is in the acetal part. If there is no visible damage to the fitting threads and screws into other fittings made out of metal or radiators then you're fine.


----------



## ali13245

Yeah thats what I did. The fittings still screw in normally into the components, so can I just go ahead and use them even though they are doing this?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Yeah thats what I did. The fittings still screw in normally into the components, so can I just go ahead and use them even though they are doing this?


Probably just tighter clearances on that acetal block. If they screw nicely into a radiator or metal port fine, then they should be alright (basically what sinnedone just said). I would still work the fittings a few times through that acetal and make sure it finishes cutting the new grooves, then make sure to trim/remove all of those hanging parts. You don't want those to come loose and suck into anything.

Come to think of it, I may have had a similar thing happen on my acetal crossfire bridge, but it wasn't removing that much material if that was the case. Either the fitting did it or it already had some of those loose in it. Can't quite remember now.

Just be sure it's not actually cross threading.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Yeah thats what I did. The fittings still screw in normally into the components, so can I just go ahead and use them even though they are doing this?


As long as the o-ring seals then its all good.

I had Primochill fittings that needed Vice grips to fit....its was a throwaway build,those fittings where in there till eternity. If they dont fit correctly then send them back,dont support shoddy build quality because we all suffer.


----------



## emsj86

Probably what cracked my two plexi cpu blocks as well (primochill fitting) as since I've used adapters off my plexi block I don't have hat problem


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Hi guys. Just got in my new sr2 multiports and I'm a lil nervous. The 360, on the side ports look cracked. Wondering what you pros think. Should I email ppcs? My pressure gauge won't be in till next week to text them. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I received 2 new SR2 Multi-Port 360 rads last week and inspected them with a magnifying glass - no joke - after the EK-XE360 rad damage from the factory thing, no one gets a pass. I pay for first quality components, they had better be first quality. All the ports are neatly welded or brazed, whatever process they use. The fins look great and body is solid. The only negative I could find is one of the protective screws tabs is bent downward toward the fins (nearest the tank w/ports end) on one radiator, but not damaging the fins. It is too "solid" (for me) to risk damaging fins by trying to bend it up.
It's too bad the Dark Matter finish isn't available on the SR2 rads. I like that finish!







The matte finish on mine is clean and even across the body of the rad, but a bit more washed out than I prefer.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As long as the o-ring seals then its all good.
> 
> I had Primochill fittings that needed Vice grips to fit....its was a throwaway build,those fittings where in there till eternity. If they don't fit correctly then send them back,don't support shoddy build quality because we all suffer.


I just tried screwing them in again, and as soon as I started to apply the slightest pressure it was definitely cutting through the thread, so I immediately took it out as I don't want to risk damaging any of my components. I think I'm just going to get some EK compression fittings seeing as a lot of people have had good experience with them. I will never purchase anything from XSPC ever again.I guess this was a lesson learned for the future :/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I just tried screwing them in again, and as soon as I started to apply the slightest pressure it was definitely cutting through the thread, so I immediately took it out as I don't want to risk damaging any of my components. I think I'm just going to get some EK compression fittings seeing as a lot of people have had good experience with them*. I will never purchase anything from XSPC ever again*.I guess this was a lesson learned for the future :/


Well that escalated quickly.

TCO


----------



## Domler

@Questors
UPDATE: I was in the same boat with you and the EK rads. That's why I looked them over really hard when I first got my SR2s. The 240 SR2 multiport is flawless. Just the 360 had the issue.

PPCS has already issued an RMA. I am very happy.

Now to admit my noob status on the thread.
When PPCS emailed me with the response from HWL, it quoted saying, I saw his post and told him its cosmetic, to leak test and get back with me. But if he wants it replaced, to kindly inspect the one going out first. In short-If he is not happy, replace it. -I'm very happy about that-

And then I realized that d3t0n8 was not just some enthusiast throwing there 2 cents into the ring trying to help a bother out, but a hardware rep for HWL.









I felt-shame.

All in all, I am very happy that everything worked out. I have heard great things about HWLs, and I guess there right. There a _GOOD_ company.
Not just a good rad.

Now I just need to justify X99 ,5930k, evga classified over my existing z97 vii formula, 4790k overlocked (of course) to 4.7 at 1.28v. I'm guessing I could hit 4.5 on a 5930k. Which might just be a wash in the end. But then I would be with the big boys. Yeah. Give me a week. Ill justify it.

Thanks again guys and keep on building.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> *Well that escalated quickly*.
> 
> TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Sure did, I have XSPC fittings and a rad or two and the quality was good. Bad batches sometimes make it through the lot. Now knowing what happens when you crossthread, more than likely you already messed up the component you were screwing into. I'd take a light and inspect the threads on everything, also turn slightly to the left prior to your threading as sometimes (a lot of the time for me) it will ensure a proper threading of the fitting/screw


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Sure did, I have XSPC fittings and a rad or two and the quality was good. Bad batches sometimes make it through the lot. Now knowing what happens when you crossthread, more than likely you already messed up the component you were screwing into. I'd take a light and inspect the threads on everything, also turn slightly to the left prior to your threading as sometimes (a lot of the time for me) it will ensure a proper threading of the fitting/screw


Yeah that is first thing I did. I took my primochill revolver fittings and screwed them into the ports where the xspc fittings were, and everything screwed in. I even slapped a piece of tubing on and tried pulling it out, and it was good to go


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> ... also turn slightly to the left prior to your threading as sometimes (a lot of the time for me) it will ensure a proper threading of the fitting/screw


Should do that with any threaded part tbh. Slight turn out then half/slight turn in to make sure the contact is good before going further with the project.









~Ceadder


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So, what do you guys think of these EK-XRES pump / res combo's? thinking of getting one when I rebuild to replace my current D5.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So, what do you guys think of these EK-XRES pump / res combo's? thinking of getting one when I rebuild to replace my current D5.


Not for 150$ Id rather piece one together with the colours I want.

TCO


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Not for 150$ Id rather piece one together with the colours I want.
> 
> TCO


Lol in Aus it probably costs about $150 to piece one together anyway.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Lol in Aus it probably costs about $150 to piece one together anyway.


Yea, at least It could have a bigger res or something. Could lose that little one thinking it was a coaster for my coffee or something.

TCO


----------



## Domler

I'm other news, glass cutter arrived today. Can you tell which is mayhems glass and which is e22?




Have fun.


----------



## mus1mus

EDITED:

Left. They look completely opposite on the web than on mobile.









Ohh wait, I can only see seahorses. You cheat!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Left.
> 
> Ohh wait, I can only see seahorses. You cheat!


I'm told they are dragons, but they are definitely sea horses.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm told they are dragons, but they are definitely sea horses.


Thought it was the Loch Ness











TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I just tried screwing them in again, and as soon as I started to apply the slightest pressure it was definitely cutting through the thread, so I immediately took it out as I don't want to risk damaging any of my components. I think I'm just going to get some EK compression fittings seeing as a lot of people have had good experience with them. I will never purchase anything from XSPC ever again.I guess this was a lesson learned for the future :/


It's probably just the tap was either worn or maybe not run deep enough.
I had a little bit of that on the acetal part of my ek gpu waterblocks, and I used both Bitspower and Monsoon.

Just make sure you are not cross threading and you'll be fine. Take the fitting and tighten, and then loosen. Repeat as many times as necessary until o'ring seats. Remove a final time and make sure there are no acetal shavings in the passage.
XSPC fittings seem to be on par with Bitspower and EK as far as quality. The fact they screw in perfectly into your rads also shows the issue is not the fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I'm other news, glass cutter arrived today. Can you tell which is mayhems glass and which is e22?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun.


.
Right is glass.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I second this.

TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> It's probably just the tap was either worn or maybe not run deep enough.
> I had a little bit of that on the acetal part of my ek gpu waterblocks, and I used both Bitspower and Monsoon.
> 
> Just make sure you are not cross threading and you'll be fine. Take the fitting and tighten, and then loosen. Repeat as many times as necessary until o'ring seats. Remove a final time and make sure there are no acetal shavings in the passage.
> XSPC fittings seem to be on par with Bitspower and EK as far as quality. The fact they screw in perfectly into your rads also shows the issue is not the fittings.
> .
> Right is glass.


No, they also feel rough when being screwed into the radiator, as well as my bitspower splitter fitting which it also made burrs to.

Edit: I am certain that those 2 splits on the threaded side of the fitting are causing the issue. I actually saw them cut into the components when I was screwing it in. I have no idea why XSPC would incorporate that into the threaded side of the fitting:


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Right is glass.


Interesting. The one on the right seems to refract the light a bit, while the left just mostly lets it pass through. You have to pull up the original photo and get it at the right size. The right has to be the glass.


----------



## kizwan

Those 2 splits has been useful to me when I accidentally over tighten the tube.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I'm other news, glass cutter arrived today. Can you tell which is mayhems glass and which is e22?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun.


Did somebody say Glass Cutter, I finished making mine today


----------



## Game4it

Sweet mother of invention,great jig.


----------



## Wanou

Looks great. Great idea.


----------



## psycho84




----------



## TheCautiousOne

@psycho84 One of the Screws on holding the Rear fan isn't the same colour as the rest. Love the Green though.

TCO


----------



## psycho84

I know ^^ I changed it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> I know ^^ I changed it


Nice!







Where is the rad? Behind the front panel? I guess the Res is too eh?

TCO


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*


External pump, res, and rad? Are those quick disconnects?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Did somebody say Glass Cutter, I finished making mine today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Ok now this is something awesome. and i think will encourage more people to deal with glass. but can we get a list of components, assembly guide and a video


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where is the rad? Behind the front panel? I guess the Res is too eh?
> 
> TCO


External Rad







Two MoRa 420









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> External pump, res, and rad? Are those quick disconnects?


The Pump is behind the Cover under the PSU. Yes, this are Koolance QD3


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> It's probably just the tap was either worn or maybe not run deep enough.
> I had a little bit of that on the acetal part of my ek gpu waterblocks, and I used both Bitspower and Monsoon.
> 
> Just make sure you are not cross threading and you'll be fine. Take the fitting and tighten, and then loosen. Repeat as many times as necessary until o'ring seats. Remove a final time and make sure there are no acetal shavings in the passage.
> XSPC fittings seem to be on par with Bitspower and EK as far as quality. The fact they screw in perfectly into your rads also shows the issue is not the fittings.
> .
> Right is glass.
> 
> 
> 
> No, they also feel rough when being screwed into the radiator, as well as my bitspower splitter fitting which it also made burrs to.
> 
> Edit: I am certain that those 2 splits on the threaded side of the fitting are causing the issue. I actually saw them cut into the components when I was screwing it in. I have no idea why XSPC would incorporate that into the threaded side of the fitting:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was given a pair of them and can't come up with a solid reason for those notches.









~Ceadder


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @psycho84 One of the Screws on holding the Rear fan isn't the same colour as the rest. Love the Green though.
> 
> TCO


We call that a nut. The screw or bolt is what goes into it.









Just messing with you.









Awesome build though @psycho84.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> We call that a nut. The screw or bolt is what goes into it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just messing with you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome build though @psycho84.












TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Did somebody say Glass Cutter, I finished making mine today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now this is something awesome. and i think will encourage more people to deal with glass. but can we get a list of components, assembly guide and a video
Click to expand...

Already doing one,different technique tho,im doing a thermal shock method...no more glass dust!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

When working with neon tubes, you have to make a lot of glass cuts. The tool? A sharp triangle file. Score the tube and snap it off. Fast, clean, inexpensive.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Those 2 splits has been useful to me when I accidentally over tighten the tube.


That notch is on the thread side, which doesn't seem useful for anything (and actually caused problems it seems). The notches on the barb end are nice though.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Those 2 splits has been useful to me when I accidentally over tighten the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> That notch is on the thread side, which doesn't seem useful for anything (and actually caused problems it seems). The notches on the barb end are nice though.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know it's on the thread side. It's useful to me when I over tighten the tube.







Nah, it won't caused any problem. The ones that giving the problem probably have QC issue.


----------



## Origondoo

Is water cooling a rocket science?

hell yeah if you want to go for itx


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















And that's the room for bottom fans to breath


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, I was given a pair of them and can't come up with a solid reason for those notches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Could aid in removing the tubing, lets coolant sit in there to make the inside of the tube wet and act as lube. Only thing I can think of if there is no tool to help screw it into blocks/rads.


----------



## Jflisk

I own all XSPC compression fittings never had a problem with them. Bottom notches may be for if the compression fitting is applied to tight (Stuck) Gives you something to grab onto to release the compression fitting without it spinning or having to have to use pliers.


----------



## Domler

The one on the right is the glass.
I thought I was one of the cool kids since maybe only a handful of people are playing around with glass right now. Here is my glass cutter.

Thank you @fast_fate and @B NEGATIVE That pic is about how small my manhood feels right about now. ? And the cutter I got sucks.
All kidding aside, gonna pick up the Dremel cutter for finer cutts.
Any tips? I know we need to sand the bottom flat, should we lightly sand the edge the same way we do acrylic to soften the edge?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> The one on the right is the glass.
> I thought I was one of the cool kids since maybe only a handful of people are playing around with glass right now. Here is my glass cutter.
> 
> Thank you @fast_fate and @B NEGATIVE That pic is about how small my manhood feels right about now. ? And the cutter I got sucks.
> All kidding aside, gonna pick up the Dremel cutter for finer cutts.
> Any tips? I know we need to sand the bottom flat, should we lightly sand the edge the same way we do acrylic to soften the edge?


Im using a blow torch to clean the ends up,Im trying to keep it abrasive free as glass dust is lethal crap to have around.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I wish I had a way to record a video, I'd demonstrate how quick, easy, straight, and clean the cuts are made with a file. I still have some 12mm glass tubing left around here. Score it, snap it, use it.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Already doing one,different technique tho,im doing a thermal shock method...no more glass dust!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> When working with neon tubes, you have to make a lot of glass cuts. The tool? A sharp triangle file. Score the tube and snap it off. Fast, clean, inexpensive.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> The one on the right is the glass.
> I thought I was one of the cool kids since maybe only a handful of people are playing around with glass right now. Here is my glass cutter.
> 
> Thank you @fast_fate and @B NEGATIVE That pic is about how small my manhood feels right about now. ? And the cutter I got sucks.
> All kidding aside, gonna pick up the Dremel cutter for finer cutts.
> Any tips? I know we need to sand the bottom flat, should we lightly sand the edge the same way we do acrylic to soften the edge?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im using a blow torch to clean the ends up,Im trying to keep it abrasive free as glass dust is lethal crap to have around.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I wish I had a way to record a video, I'd demonstrate how quick, easy, straight, and clean the cuts are made with a file. I still have some 12mm glass tubing left around here. Score it, snap it, use it.


Look forward to see what you got B








The high thermal shock resistance of Borosilicate glass is what put me off thermal shock, though I did make a rather weak effort









Originally I wanted to try and cut the glass tube, but ran into a lot of road blocks during research with the toughness of glass to actually cut...
So I opted for a glass tube scorer similar to that in the Mayhems video.



This made a good score line on the glass - I tried on 12mm and 16mm glass tubes.
The 16mm I could not even snap after scoring, it has a thicker wall than the 12mm and 13mm.
This was near the end attempting to cut a short piece for SLI connection, so not much flex in the tube - just got to the effort required where felt unsafe about trying harder to force the snap.
I tried hot water and ice in an attempt to thermal shock, but temperature difference probably was not great enough - even with the score mark all the way around the tube.

 

The 12mm scored and snapped much easier








BUT produced an unsatisfactory result 2 out 3 times I tried it.



So score and snap for me was not very successful which is why I started making the Dremel Cutting bench.
People may get better results than I did with the score and snap...
I was hoping for it to be easy, but that just didn't eventuate.
My experiences are from only trying to score and snap short lengths from the end of the glass tube - up to 100mm.
longer sections would be easier to snap because of more flex in the tube, but the result might well end up the same.

With the water cooled blade, cutting now is easy....wear your PPE and exercise caution during the cutting operation.
I use a diamond needle file to start the chamfer on the ends and finish off with wet & dry paper which gives good results.

It was not my idea BTW, just modified to suit what I could make with what I had available - I did buy the Twin Pull Puller Kit as the heart of the sliding V-Rail.
My home power tools could not achieve workshop machining perfection, but it does run true and straight.
The tricky part was securing the Dremel extension handle so the blade was vertical and inline with the sliding block.
This is what I used as my inspiration for my Sliding V-Rail Glass Tube Cutter.

 vs mine 






*EDIT:* Made small modification this morning by adding 3 more washers behind each spring closest to the Dremel.
This has compressed the springs at bit more and the cutting wheel is closer to the glass tube at the start of the cutting procedure.
The springs weren't out of stroke before, now where near it, but definitely works better with that extra bit of tension pulling the Sliding V-Block in.
Now to fix up my terrible attempt at a sliding back-stop for the length, which wasn't pictured before because it was just a bit too agricultural


----------



## B NEGATIVE

No doubting the construction skills Underwater.

I will add to your thread rather than start my own 101,you seem to have it in hand. I will look at making a CAD file for your design with the associated mounts tho,its a very workable design.
My only concern has been the glass dust,maybe a drip tip over the cut area would suffice in damping it all down...or a deflector with a vacuum extractor?

Also maybe cutting down on the moving parts by cutting on an angle,could make the clean up easier. I recommend a fine grit diamond block for finishing if abrasives are your thing.


----------



## fast_fate

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No doubting the construction skills Underwater.
> 
> I will add to your thread rather than start my own 101,you seem to have it in hand. I will look at making a CAD file for your design with the associated mounts tho,its a very workable design.
> My only concern has been the glass dust,maybe a drip tip over the cut area would suffice in damping it all down...or a deflector with a vacuum extractor?
> 
> Also maybe cutting down on the moving parts by cutting on an angle,could make the clean up easier. I recommend a fine grit diamond block for finishing if abrasives are your thing.






PM sent


----------



## EpicOtis13

Just checking in with all of your people. Is there a way to convert a 3pin to a pwm signal? So that I could control my MCP50X's speed with my fan controller? My motherboard suck for controlling it, so it is always super loud.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No doubting the construction skills Underwater.
> 
> I will add to your thread rather than start my own 101,you seem to have it in hand. I will look at making a CAD file for your design with the associated mounts tho,its a very workable design.
> My only concern has been the glass dust,maybe a drip tip over the cut area would suffice in damping it all down...or a deflector with a vacuum extractor?
> 
> Also maybe cutting down on the moving parts by cutting on an angle,could make the clean up easier. I recommend a fine grit diamond block for finishing if abrasives are your thing.


B are u using a small blow torch like those BBQ starters or a big one? when i was playing with acrylic sheets i used a small blow torch to finish up the edges and make them crystal clear again. i know it's the oldest trick in the book for glass but i'm not sure how hot the torch should me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No doubting the construction skills Underwater.
> 
> I will add to your thread rather than start my own 101,you seem to have it in hand. I will look at making a CAD file for your design with the associated mounts tho,its a very workable design.
> My only concern has been the glass dust,maybe a drip tip over the cut area would suffice in damping it all down...or a deflector with a vacuum extractor?
> 
> Also maybe cutting down on the moving parts by cutting on an angle,could make the clean up easier. I recommend a fine grit diamond block for finishing if abrasives are your thing.
> 
> 
> 
> B are u using a small blow torch like those BBQ starters or a big one? when i was playing with acrylic sheets i used a small blow torch to finish up the edges and make them crystal clear again. i know it's the oldest trick in the book for glass but i'm not sure how hot the torch should me.
Click to expand...

I use a small jet torch,the same one I use to flame polish acrylic.



http://www.overclock.net/t/1281014/acrylic-bending-101/0_20


----------



## Domler

@B NEGATIVE
Hi bud. Doing some research last night. When you are doing thermal shock, are you using open flame or water?


----------



## fisher6

I have a question regarding the EK UV Blue Premixed coolant. I'm currently using EK Clear coolant in my loop with Primochill Advanced LRT UV blue tubing along with Darkside UV led strips. I'm quite happy with the UV effects, the only problem is that my 250 EK res looks kinda dull with clear water so I was thinking of switching to the EK Premixed UV Blue coolant in order to give my res a better look with the UV effect. Do you guys recommend the UV Blue from EK? Also, I have a bitspower drain valve in my loop so draining won't be hard but there probably will be some EK clear coolant left in the blocks/rads, would this be an issue if I use the EK UV Blue and they get mixed a little bit? I really don't have time to tear down everything just to get the water out. Thanks.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Just checking in with all of your people. Is there a way to convert a 3pin to a pwm signal? So that I could control my MCP50X's speed with my fan controller? My motherboard suck for controlling it, so it is always super loud.
> Thanks in advance.


no. that pump isnt loud. decouple it from the case.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I have a question regarding the EK UV Blue Premixed coolant. I'm currently using EK Clear coolant in my loop with Primochill Advanced LRT UV blue tubing along with Darkside UV led strips. I'm quite happy with the UV effects, the only problem is that my 250 EK res looks kinda dull with clear water so I was thinking of switching to the EK Premixed UV Blue coolant in order to give my res a better look with the UV effect. Do you guys recommend the UV Blue from EK? Also, I have a bitspower drain valve in my loop so draining won't be hard but there probably will be some EK clear coolant left in the blocks/rads, would this be an issue if I use the EK UV Blue and they get mixed a little bit? I really don't have time to tear down everything just to get the water out. Thanks.


here is ek blue premix under darksides and clear tubing.
 I wasn't impressed.

I switched to uv tubing and liked the results much better. The resivoir as you can see doesn't even light up.


Much happier with uv tubing.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> here is ek blue premix under darksides and clear tubing.
> I wasn't impressed.
> 
> I switched to uv tubing and liked the results much better. The resivoir as you can see doesn't even light up.
> 
> 
> Much happier with uv tubing.


wow that looks really bad, is that really UV Blue? I see no UV effect at all. Second pic looks awesome, that's how my tubing looks like currently except the reservoir. I thought EK dyes are made by Mayhems but it looks different from what I have seen.


----------



## funfordcobra

All I can think is that the darkside leds are soo bright that they drown out any glow.

The uv coolant showed up slightly better under cathode but cathodes lose their brightness so damn fast. I went to 50% brightness in a month.

Also these aren't true uv. True uv leds and tubes are VERY expensive. Like tanning bed lights. I'm sure there would be a much stronger reaction.

Here's a pic running 2 cold cathodes clear tube and ek uv coolant premix.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> All I can think is that the darkside leds are soo bright that they drown out any glow.
> 
> The uv coolant showed up slightly better under cathode but cathodes lose their brightness so damn fast. I went to 50% brightness in a month.
> 
> Also these aren't true uv. True uv leds and tubes are VERY expensive. Like tanning bed lights. I'm sure there would be a much stronger reaction.
> 
> Here's a pic running 2 cold cathodes clear tube and ek uv coolant premix.


Hmm, looks quite different from the effect with the Darkside LEDs which is the only ones I have. I got 2 bottles of premixed UV Blue and put it next to the Darkside LED and the effect was alright so I might giv it a try.


----------



## Dave6531

Maybe someone can answer whats the width of the darkside led strip? Just wondering if they are narrower than my aqua computer strips.


----------



## DarthBaggins

For UV effect it's best you use CFL over led


----------



## h2ocooled

Hi all, here is my build:

Spec:

H2O Custom GeForce GTX 980 4 XSPC Edition
2 x Magicool G2 Slim radiator - 360mm
6x Corsair Air Series SP120 PWM Quiet Edition, High Static Pressure Fan
2x 120GB Kingston ssd Now V300 in Raid 0
500Gb Usb 3.0 interal drive
Corsair Air Series SP140 WHITE LED High Static Pressure Fan
EK-Supremacy EVO Water Block
Aquacomputer Aqualis XT Reservoir
Alphacool Laing D5 VPP655 PWM G1/4 with Plexi
EVGA SuperNOVA GS, Fully Modular, 80 PLUS Gold PSU
Fractal Design Define S Window Edition Black Mid Tower ATX Computer Chassis with USB 3.0 + Silent Design
Intel Core i5 6600K, S 1151, Skylake, Quad Core, OC 4.6GHz
Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming7-EU, Intel Z170 Motherboard
16GB (2x8GB) Corsair DDR4 Vengeance
Windows 10 Pro


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not bad, nice to see more people using acrylic tubing.

Thinking of replacing the top to my Bitspower AIX99R5E mono/floor-tile block, but can't seem to find where I can order the clear top over the black one I currently have. Might just snag the EK R5E MonoBlock but not feeling like dishing out the funds again since they've jumped in price from when I built back in feb/march this year.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2ocooled*
> 
> Hi all, here is my build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Spec:
> 
> H2O Custom GeForce GTX 980 4 XSPC Edition
> 2 x Magicool G2 Slim radiator - 360mm
> 6x Corsair Air Series SP120 PWM Quiet Edition, High Static Pressure Fan
> 2x 120GB Kingston ssd Now V300 in Raid 0
> 500Gb Usb 3.0 interal drive
> Corsair Air Series SP140 WHITE LED High Static Pressure Fan
> EK-Supremacy EVO Water Block
> Aquacomputer Aqualis XT Reservoir
> Alphacool Laing D5 VPP655 PWM G1/4 with Plexi
> EVGA SuperNOVA GS, Fully Modular, 80 PLUS Gold PSU
> Fractal Design Define S Window Edition Black Mid Tower ATX Computer Chassis with USB 3.0 + Silent Design
> Intel Core i5 6600K, S 1151, Skylake, Quad Core, OC 4.6GHz
> Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming7-EU, Intel Z170 Motherboard
> 16GB (2x8GB) Corsair DDR4 Vengeance
> Windows 10 Pro


I'm actually loving the way you did your GPU runs, putting it further down in another 16x PCI-e port really does something with the aesthetics


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2ocooled*
> 
> Hi all, here is my build:
> 
> Spec:
> 6x Corsair Air Series SP120 PWM Quiet Edition, High Static Pressure Fan
> Alphacool Laing D5 VPP655 PWM G1/4 with Plexi
> Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming7-EU, Intel Z170 Motherboard


why buy pwm fans and pwm pump and not buy an aquero to control fans and/or pump? your mobo manual shows your mobo has only a single pwm header. you are either using voltage control to control your fans and/or pump or you have your fans and your pump both connected to the cpu fan header which makes zero sense. also, whats the point of using a low rpm/speed _quiet_ fan with pwm control?

corsair, if your fan is quiet, why does it need control to be ran slower? people slow down fans to get lower noise levels. quiet edition pwm fans are a waste of money. buy the 'normal' high speed version and slow it down...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> why buy pwm fans and pwm pump and not buy an aquero to control fans and/or pump? your mobo manual shows your mobo has only a single pwm header. you are either using voltage control to control your fans and/or pump or you have your fans and your pump both connected to the cpu fan header which makes zero sense. also, whats the point of using a low rpm/speed _quiet_ fan with pwm control?
> 
> corsair, if your fan is quiet, why does it need control to be ran slower? people slow down fans to get lower noise levels. quiet edition pwm fans are a waste of money. buy the 'normal' high speed version and slow it down...


If I remember correctly there is something about the motor that is in use on the fans though. I have heard of several cases where if you buy two fans where one is running from lets say 1000-2000 RPM range and the other from 500-1500 RPM range, if you run both at 1000RPMs the one designed to run at lower speeds tend to be more quiet at the exact same speed.

Just something I read about.


----------



## pc-illiterate

at 1000rpm, all fans sound pretty much the same. others have said that at 1500rpm both corsair fans sound the same.


----------



## Ceadderman

Link Rainmaker?

It's too bad pc-i cannot see this...










... since he put me on iggy. Lulz









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Link Rainmaker?
> 
> It's too bad pc-i cannot see this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... since he put me on iggy. Lulz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll have to do a google search for that, but I did read it somewhere. Just nothing I keep bookmarked is all







I'll see if I can find it again.


----------



## TPham

I have dumb question. The red arrow is from EK manual indicated the recommended flow. My question is if I block the bottom port and have the inlet and outlet on the same side is this still ok? (See Green arrow):


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> I have dumb question. The red arrow is from EK manual indicated the recommended flow. My question is if I block the bottom port and have the inlet and outlet on the same side is this still ok? (See Green arrow):


Yes. As Long as the block is designed parallel.

TCO


----------



## h2ocooled




----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yes. As Long as the block is designed parallel.
> 
> TCO


My concern is this. the default block thread is somewhat countersink. So if I put other fitting in, I don't think the o-ring fit in correctly because I can only screw the fitting in half way


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My concern is this. the default block thread is somewhat countersink. So if I put other fitting in, I don't think the o-ring fit in correctly because I can only screw the fitting in half way
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a concern. Have you tried the fittings you want, filled with water, and have a way to see if the fitting holds pressure? Blowing into the other side for instance? Trying to create pressure with fluid inside the block? I had the same concern with an X3 Ek Res, ended up having to use XSPC compression fittings because they screw in deeper and hold the seal.

TCO


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My concern is this. the default block thread is somewhat countersink. So if I put other fitting in, I don't think the o-ring fit in correctly because I can only screw the fitting in half way


You have to get an extension. Like the one that comes with the pumps. I think its this one. EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no. that pump isnt loud. decouple it from the case.


What do you mean it isnt loud? At full RPM it is super loud.


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> You have to get an extension. Like the one that comes with the pumps. I think its this one. EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel


Oh ok... but you guy sure that the config like that would work?


----------



## TPham

Here is another picture. Correct my if i'm wrong but seem like the coolant just going to go to the first GPU (bottom) and then exist out and never reach the second GPU (on top)


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> You have to get an extension. Like the one that comes with the pumps. I think its this one. EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel
> 
> 
> 
> Oh ok... but you guy sure that the config like that would work?
Click to expand...

Yes. The picture you linked earlier is different than the one found in EK's manual. The top-right is optional outlet if you don't want to use the default outlet at the right-bottom. You will need an extender.

*Edit:* Oops. Looked at different bridge/terminal.


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yes. The picture you linked earlier is different than the one found in EK's manual. The top-right is optional outlet if you don't want to use the default outlet at the right-bottom. You will need an extender.
> 
> *Edit:* Oops. Looked at different bridge/terminal.


Yeah it's the same, if I flip it, it will match the on in EK manual. I still don't understand how it work but I guess I have to just trust you on this one


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> Yeah it's the same, if I flip it, it will match the on in EK manual. I still don't understand how it work but I guess I have to just trust you on this one




Liquid flows into the block until it reaches point A. The hole into the graphics card is not as large as the main pipe, so most fluid goes to B instead of C. When the fluid hits D, the obstruction to flow is the same for C and E so an equal amount of fluid goes to each direction. The flow then remains constant for both directions since the obstruction is the same in both directions.


----------



## eucalyptus

What you think about my reservoirs?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What you think about my reservoirs?


I see you used fittings to connect them. Interesting.

TCO


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> 
> 
> Liquid flows into the block until it reaches point A. The hole into the graphics card is not as large as the main pipe, so most fluid goes to B instead of C. When the fluid hits D, the obstruction to flow is the same for C and E so an equal amount of fluid goes to each direction. The flow then remains constant for both directions since the obstruction is the same in both directions.


That make a lot of sense. Thanks for the explanation!


----------



## MisterMom

I just messed with my config to do a bit of cleaning. Not much, but enough to go back to dual loop. Temps are way better. My EK nickel plate block is now copper inside (probably from the whole silver myth a year or two ago). Straight distilled and an ounce of 50/50 Ethylene Glycol from the leftover car rad coolant. Seems to prevent any corrosion or fungal build up. A dark room seems to help also. Anyway, I was afraid to run my GPUs this way (parallel with both input/output from the same side of first card [for lack of better description] thinking that the flow would be worse to the second card). Temps are exactly the same. Second card 1C higher than first. I really love these hydro980s even though I only have 2 months to pay them both off or pay the piper. Still waiting on DX12 patches or games I like. I won't pay Futuremark a red cent. Sorry. Furryrodents in the blood right now. No, seriously, I love the way ricercar explains flow in this post. Excellant!!!!  Soory for the horrible pic. Lowly man with a lowly camera. I read yous guys everyday, but rarely get to chime in!!!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> What do you mean it isnt loud? At full RPM it is super loud.


why are you running it at 100% rpm? you have what amounts to 2 blocks. 70% pump speed should be more than adequate to run your loop. at 70% it is as tested to be as loud as a d5 at 100% and at 50% it is quieter than a d5 running a higher rpm. maybe you should check VSG's review. granted real world isnt real testing but still, you do not need 100% rpm for your loop.
nevermind. again what people do and want definitely comes before common sense.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My concern is this. the default block thread is somewhat countersink. So if I put other fitting in, I don't think the o-ring fit in correctly because I can only screw the fitting in half way


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That is a concern. Have you tried the fittings you want, filled with water, and have a way to see if the fitting holds pressure? Blowing into the other side for instance? Trying to create pressure with fluid inside the block? I had the same concern with an X3 Ek Res, ended up having to use XSPC compression fittings because they screw in deeper and hold the seal.
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> You have to get an extension. Like the one that comes with the pumps. I think its this one. EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel


I bought the ek X3 250 res, it came with two nickel g1/4 extenders included. Didn't they include some with the terminal block?


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What you think about my reservoirs?


What color lasers do they shoot ?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What you think about my reservoirs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I noticed paint chipped on one of the cap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My concern is this. the default block thread is somewhat countersink. So if I put other fitting in, I don't think the o-ring fit in correctly because I can only screw the fitting in half way
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That is a concern. Have you tried the fittings you want, filled with water, and have a way to see if the fitting holds pressure? Blowing into the other side for instance? Trying to create pressure with fluid inside the block? I had the same concern with an X3 Ek Res, ended up having to use XSPC compression fittings because they screw in deeper and hold the seal.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> You have to get an extension. Like the one that comes with the pumps. I think its this one. EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the ek X3 250 res, it came with two nickel g1/4 extenders included. Didn't they include some with the terminal block?
Click to expand...

They did not include it with the terminal/bridge.


----------



## fast_fate

Snapping off some pics of candidates for glass tube fittings...
This one came up pretty nice


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> What color lasers do they shoot ?


I will use Mayhem UV green







I think white and green is pretty nice though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I noticed paint chipped on one of the cap.
> They did not include it with the terminal/bridge.


Yeah, painting was easy. But DAMN! One layer of paint and you couldn't mount this stuff. Between the caps and the brackets are so minimal it couldn't even handle a layer paint.. So at mounting I got a few scratches.

I am right now re-doing everything though. Hope it will work out better this time. Frustrating every single product in this world has to be black :/

But I think the finished resultat - mounted at the Deepcool Tristellar will be great









You can see my build log for more pictures in the signature


----------



## Archea47

Those look Purdy awesome eucalyptus - tell us more


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Those look Purdy awesome eucalyptus - tell us more


























They are 2x XSPC D5 170 Photon with Barrow D5 Mod kit connected to 2x XSPC 170 Photon.

The connection is made by 2 pieces of 20mm Pass-through fittings, these ordinary/usual Bitspower sells. And between the passthrough fittings it is a double male 5mm G1/4 fitting









I have never seen something like this before, or even heard about anyone done something similar. But someone had to be first









The passthrough fittings are obviously to long, so I had to cut 6mm of the thread part. They are sealed with o-ring on the inside and tighten very well - so no leaks!

Glade you like it, they are some crazy beasts. The reservoirs are something 70-80mm in diameter, and with this length (about 43cm) they are the real del


----------



## Ramzinho

no posts in more than 1 day? is this the end of the world?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> no posts in more than 1 day? is this the end of the world?


Ramz, I think you're right man!


----------



## Domler

first one I built. Thanks @B NEGATIVE she's been hold for two hours. Gonna buy the dplug to finish it off.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> no posts in more than 1 day? is this the end of the world?


It was a contest and you won. Or lost. I'm not sure.


----------



## chann3l




----------



## snef




----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*


Awsome pics.









I do not want to know how long it took you to wipe out all the fingerprints









What kind of painting did you use for the mobo heatsink?


----------



## catbuster

@snef why u left red near rog logo?







really catches my eye


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> @snef why u left red near rog logo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really catches my eye


Don't worry - he's gonna put Primochill blood red dye in that beast and it'll blend in just nicely


----------



## Willius

Looks killer! Cannot wait to see it filled!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*


Is that case as small as it seems or am I looking at it incorrectly? That's allottaguud stuff packed into that tiny space!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Purdy work!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Awsome pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do not want to know how long it took you to wipe out all the fingerprints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of painting did you use for the mobo heatsink?


Thanks
I used white high temp paint, ( motor paint)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> @snef why u left red near rog logo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really catches my eye


I will hide it, this one is only a test fit , I need to install back plate and use acrylic tube instead of PETG , (I will use EG coolant)
I will put some vinyl on red

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Don't worry - he's gonna put Primochill blood red dye in that beast and it'll blend in just nicely


nope its will be dark green (same shade as fans)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Looks killer! Cannot wait to see it filled!


Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Purdy work!


Thanks


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Is that case as small as it seems or am I looking at it incorrectly? That's allottaguud stuff packed into that tiny space!


It really is that small lol. It probably looks smaller because of all the goodies, but the corsair 540 is not that tall and the opposite compartment is reserved for cabling, psu, etc. Though, prior to the revamp, i had my old pump and reservoir on the opposite side. I just think it would be a waste if this reservoir and pump top were hidden away.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, I'm having a problem with my pump rpm. Whenever I turn off my pc and then start it back up, the pump goes from ~1000rpm when on to 0 rpm when I start the system, even though the dial on the fan controller it's plugged into is turned to the 1000rpm range. I plugged the pump"s 3 pin power connector into the CPU header on the motherboard, and now I don't have to worry about the pump being off when I power the system on, but the pump is running at 1300rpm, and it's kinda loud. I tried messing with the fan settings but it's still loud, what can I do? Pump is EK DCP 2.2.


----------



## Questors

I am not as creative as a lot of others and it takes me longer to move along on a major project. Here is a bit of what I have done thus far since dismantling my old rig. This project started in August of 2015. Some setbacks have included the RMA of the EKWB XE 360 Rads







and the non-availability of simple things like correct screw sizes in my area.

The beginning of the new build starts in a familiar place... my CaseLabs Merlin ST10. I bought this over the SM8 for the extra height and at the time, CaseLabs ran a package deal with this case called the ST10 Extreme. It netted a nice bunch of extras at a great price. I can mount (and have) up to three - 360 rads, or two 480 & one 360 rad at the same time and still get all other parts in there. Add a pedestal or two and the sky is the limit... almost literally... thing gets TALL!



*Above:* The original divider panel was shot full of mounting holes and other mods, so I took my allowance







and bought a new part from CL. Easy tear-down, easy re-assembly.
*Below:* The case as it is now with a partial test fit of components. The 480 is an EK XTX P/P and the 360 in the FlexBay area is a new HWLabs SR2-MP P/P. The mandatory GT-AP15's abound. The fans in the pictures are Nidec-Servo OEM versions which I sleeved. The wife and I have rescued cats, so I put the new DemciFlex filters on the outside, rather than inside the rad/fan covers. To me it doesn't look as bad as I thought it might. The covered power supply is a Seasonic X1250 full modular 80+ Gold. No custom cables yet, but if I can sneak around the boss







(my lovely wife) the supplies will be incoming.













I have two pedestals, one for use as bottom mount and one that can be integrated into the main case structure and used as a top rad box. The SM8 uses the same pedestals and they can be integrated in the same manner. Separating any or all of the heat load out of the case is a great option. I am still not sure which direction I will go... a bit more compact size or full blown sky-scraping multi-rad tower. I also have a 120mm top cover and a drop-in 480 (max size) mount that can be put atop of all that. It's so tempting!







Small mods to the pedestals have served me well in thus far. One is a cable pass-thru grommet and the other end of both are 120mm fan mounts in the front bay.





There is more on tap, but I think that is enough thread space for the moment. Besides, I am about to fall into a coma for lack of blood sugar!








There are more photos already taken and ample future opportunity for photo sessions as I move along. Don't expect a blingy Trump Tower though. My creativity and abilities don't rival the rest of you. As I have said before, you folks never cease to amaze me.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So... I'm looking at the parts I have for my WC loop here and I'm starting to wonder if there is anything I'm missing. First of all I'm wondering wether or not a flow meter is worth the hassle, and what about temp probes for the water? I'm quite sure I have the essentialparts but since I'll be completly finishing my build after my exams are done I figured I will order up any needed parts now (I need to import them so the shipping will take quite some time). If any of you would mind taking a look and recommending any changes or any aditions to it then that would be apreciated.

So I'm doing two 480mm rads which would need 4 compression fittings each, and I'm doing two blocks total where I will run the CPU and GPU in paralell (needing 6 fittings total for that). Then I have a pump/res combo which would need 2 compression fittings total.

I know I'm missing the temp probe and the flow meter but I figured I would list my parts here to have a second pair of eyes to look at it:

16 compression fittings
4 90*c swivel adapter
8 45*c swivel adapter
5 stop fittings
1 male to male fitting
1 ball valve
This should be it, ofcourse there are way more fittings listed tehn I need but I already have them at my disposal so I figure I would list it as is rather than posting to few since I calculated what I wanted to use in the build.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So... I'm looking at the parts I have for my WC loop here and I'm starting to wonder if there is anything I'm missing. First of all I'm wondering wether or not a flow meter is worth the hassle, and what about temp probes for the water? I'm quite sure I have the essentialparts but since I'll be completly finishing my build after my exams are done I figured I will order up any needed parts now (I need to import them so the shipping will take quite some time). If any of you would mind taking a look and recommending any changes or any aditions to it then that would be apreciated.
> 
> So I'm doing two 480mm rads which would need 4 compression fittings each, and I'm doing two blocks total where I will run the CPU and GPU in paralell (needing 6 fittings total for that). Then I have a pump/res combo which would need 2 compression fittings total.
> 
> I know I'm missing the temp probe and the flow meter but I figured I would list my parts here to have a second pair of eyes to look at it:
> 
> 16 compression fittings
> 4 90*c swivel adapter
> 8 45*c swivel adapter
> 5 stop fittings
> 1 male to male fitting
> 1 ball valve
> This should be it, ofcourse there are way more fittings listed tehn I need but I already have them at my disposal so I figure I would list it as is rather than posting to few since I calculated what I wanted to use in the build.


why not go for rigid tubing?

if your always changing stuff soft tubing is good i suppose. easy to remove etc?
rigid tubing is a lot better for plasticizer issues & is aesthetically better. what fittings do you plan on getting?

also give the full config of pump & rads?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> why not go for rigid tubing?
> 
> if your always changing stuff soft tubing is good i suppose. easy to remove etc?
> rigid tubing is a lot better for plasticizer issues & is aesthetically better. what fittings do you plan on getting?
> 
> also give the full config of pump & rads?


Well teh ones I listed are what I *have*, and since I already have them I'm doing soft tubing to start with anyways. That might change in the future though, but I'm going to put this thing together first since I already have most of the parts and I don't want to overspend to much.

As for the full setup, I'm just watercooling my old rig that is listed in my signature. The watercooling setup in it's entirety (not gonna mention fittings this time) is as follows:

2pts Alphacool Nexxxos 480mm Monsta (way overkill, but I got them really cheap used so I figured why not)
EKWB Supremacy Nickel Acrylic (first version bought used on OCN)
EKWB Thermosphere bought "used" (actually new in box, completely sealed)
Bitspower DDC Top Upgrade Kit 150 (bought used on OCN)
Bitspower DDC acrylic DDC top (bought used on OCN)
Swiftech MCP35x (bought used on OCN)
Noiseblocker Eloop B12-3 (5pcs)
Arctic Cooling F12 (3pcs)
I think thats it, I'll be going for a full cover block once I can get the money scraped together for a new GPU but for now the Thermosphere should work well on my non reference 7950. Teh fans will all be upgraded to Eloops in time, but for now it's not in the budget so I'll have to make due with the fans I have.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well teh ones I listed are what I *have*, and since I already have them I'm doing soft tubing to start with anyways. That might change in the future though, but I'm going to put this thing together first since I already have most of the parts and I don't want to overspend to much.
> 
> As for the full setup, I'm just watercooling my old rig that is listed in my signature. The watercooling setup in it's entirety (not gonna mention fittings this time) is as follows:
> 
> 2pts Alphacool Nexxxos 480mm Monsta (way overkill, but I got them really cheap used so I figured why not)
> EKWB Supremacy Nickel Acrylic (first version bought used on OCN)
> EKWB Thermosphere bought "used" (actually new in box, completely sealed)
> Bitspower DDC Top Upgrade Kit 150 (bought used on OCN)
> Bitspower DDC acrylic DDC top (bought used on OCN)
> Swiftech MCP35x (bought used on OCN)
> Noiseblocker Eloop B12-3 (5pcs)
> Arctic Cooling F12 (3pcs)
> I think thats it, I'll be going for a full cover block once I can get the money scraped together for a new GPU but for now the Thermosphere should work well on my non reference 7950. Teh fans will all be upgraded to Eloops in time, but for now it's not in the budget so I'll have to make due with the fans I have.


sounds like a plan!
that is plenty to cool your setup.... if you want add a flow meter & temp sensor it should not affect it to the point to deteriorate your temps tbh!
I have the same NB eloops & i there good! maybe do away with the F12's though? ive never had any but i know there cheap!
someone else or yourself can chime in on how they perform


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> why not go for rigid tubing?
> 
> if your always changing stuff soft tubing is good i suppose. easy to remove etc?
> rigid tubing is a lot better for plasticizer issues & is aesthetically better. what fittings do you plan on getting?
> 
> also give the full config of pump & rads?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well teh ones I listed are what I *have*, and since I already have them I'm doing soft tubing to start with anyways. That might change in the future though, but I'm going to put this thing together first since I already have most of the parts and I don't want to overspend to much.
> 
> As for the full setup, I'm just watercooling my old rig that is listed in my signature. The watercooling setup in it's entirety (not gonna mention fittings this time) is as follows:
> 
> 2pts Alphacool Nexxxos 480mm Monsta (way overkill, but I got them really cheap used so I figured why not)
> EKWB Supremacy Nickel Acrylic (first version bought used on OCN)
> EKWB Thermosphere bought "used" (actually new in box, completely sealed)
> Bitspower DDC Top Upgrade Kit 150 (bought used on OCN)
> Bitspower DDC acrylic DDC top (bought used on OCN)
> Swiftech MCP35x (bought used on OCN)
> Noiseblocker Eloop B12-3 (5pcs)
> Arctic Cooling F12 (3pcs)
> I think thats it, I'll be going for a full cover block once I can get the money scraped together for a new GPU but for now the Thermosphere should work well on my non reference 7950. Teh fans will all be upgraded to Eloops in time, but for now it's not in the budget so I'll have to make due with the fans I have.
Click to expand...

I really like my XSPC Temp display paired with the Bitspower G1/4" temp probe (or XSPC sells their LCD with a g1/4 package deal) to show water temps. Really gives you a quick idea of what your loop is doing. I wouldn't necessarily say it is a requirement but it is really handy and a bit of bling.


----------



## fast_fate

My favorite pic of the day








No additional lighting - just the LEDs begind the glass tube...
and zero image processing - I promise









This is why some folk will go the extra mile and use glass tube.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Because of the Light reflection through the tubing?

TCO


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> My favorite pic of the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No additional lighting - just the LEDs begind the glass tube...
> and zero image processing - I promise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why some folk will go the extra mile and use glass tube.












That does look good.

I am still trying to master acrylic.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Because of the Light reflection through the tubing?
> 
> TCO


Yeah, the refraction of the glass tubes will produce some great effects.
I tied to get the same effect with an acrylic tube, but no


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yeah, the refraction of the glass tubes will produce some great effects.
> I tied to get the same effect with an acrylic tube, but no


I could imagine due to the glass being... well... Glass you know? That is an interesting reason. Though I am not sure that glass would be worth using just for that effect of the tubing.









WHat are your thoughts on glass tubing in a build?

TCO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I could imagine due to the glass being... well... Glass you know? That is an interesting reason. Though I am not sure that glass would be worth using just for that effect of the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHat are your thoughts on glass tubing in a build?
> 
> TCO


My thoughts should not be made public until I put out a review later this week










I'll leave you with this though








A pair of Push In style fittings holding over 10 PSI on glass tube


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I could imagine due to the glass being... well... Glass you know? That is an interesting reason. Though I am not sure that glass would be worth using just for that effect of the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHat are your thoughts on glass tubing in a build?
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> My thoughts should not be made public until I put out a review later this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll leave you with this though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of Push In style fittings holding over 10 PSI on glass tube
Click to expand...

Nothing new there tho,I can and have tested up to 20Psi on acrylic and copper and it held.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nothing new there tho,I can and have tested up to 20Psi on acrylic and copper and it held.


Jeez B, Mates and all but sometimes I feel like your negative blood type permeates into your comments. and goes unchecked, not today.
New or not, it's an easy performance test for fitting/tube compatibility so I reckon the picture is relevant for a "new" tube type to be shown.
Sure without a comparison the PSI number X type fitting might be meaningless, but we know that 10 PSI is more than adequate for leak testing components.
To clarify the fittings pictured are EK-HD Adapter 10/12mm


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, I'm having a problem with my pump rpm. Whenever I turn off my pc and then start it back up, the pump goes from ~1000rpm when on to 0 rpm when I start the system, even though the dial on the fan controller it's plugged into is turned to the 1000rpm range. I plugged the pump"s 3 pin power connector into the CPU header on the motherboard, and now I don't have to worry about the pump being off when I power the system on, but the pump is running at 1300rpm, and it's kinda loud. I tried messing with the fan settings but it's still loud, what can I do? Pump is EK DCP 2.2.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I'm having a problem with my pump rpm. Whenever I turn off my pc and then start it back up, the pump goes from ~1000rpm when on to 0 rpm when I start the system, even though the dial on the fan controller it's plugged into is turned to the 1000rpm range. I plugged the pump"s 3 pin power connector into the CPU header on the motherboard, and now I don't have to worry about the pump being off when I power the system on, but the pump is running at 1300rpm, and it's kinda loud. I tried messing with the fan settings but it's still loud, what can I do? Pump is EK DCP 2.2.


I think the problem you may be having is the bay res vibration from the pump. I'm using the EK-XRES DCP2.2 in my sig rig and I have never heard the pump at all, even with all the fans off and the case closed. Bay reservoirs have a tendency to be noisier, so you may want to find a way to dampen that somehow. Also, imo i would run that pump full speed all the time. It is the weakest of the water cooling pumps so having constant good flow is important.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nothing new there tho,I can and have tested up to 20Psi on acrylic and copper and it held.
> 
> 
> 
> Jeez B, Mates and all but sometimes I feel like your negative blood type permeates into your comments. and goes unchecked, not today.
> New or not, it's an easy performance test for fitting/tube compatibility so I reckon the picture is relevant for a "new" tube type to be shown.
> Sure without a comparison the PSI number X type fitting might be meaningless, but we know that 10 PSI is more than adequate for leak testing components.
> To clarify the fittings pictured are EK-HD Adapter 10/12mm
Click to expand...

I didnt realise it was a negative,your comment made it sound like 10 psi was significant somwhow when its a given for tube strength.
It makes more sense when you added the context of fitting security which was lacking from your initial post.

No need to be so quick in assuming that im being negative.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I didnt realise it was a negative,your comment made it sound like 10 psi was significant somwhow when its a given for tube strength.
> It makes more sense when you added the context of fitting security which was lacking from your initial post.
> 
> No need to be so quick in assuming that im being negative.


All's good








My bicycle pump packed it in trying to force more pressure into this piece of Crystal Link and these EK-HDC fittings.
Couldn't pop the fitting or tube








bike pump = broken


----------



## Jakusonfire

It kindof is new really. Sure we have seen hard tube fittings hold pressure before but I'm still interested in seeing whether the glass tube provides more or less friction for the orings that grip and seal the tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It kindof is new really. Sure we have seen hard tube fittings hold pressure before but I'm still interested in seeing whether the glass tube provides more or less friction for the orings that grip and seal the tubing.


Agreed.
I wouldn't recommend silicone lube for glass,from my last experiments and working with Micks tube,its not needed.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It kindof is new really. Sure we have seen hard tube fittings hold pressure before but I'm still interested in seeing whether the glass tube provides more or less friction for the orings that grip and seal the tubing.


You'd need a lot more than the pressures shown to find the release point.

10 psi only exerts 1.25 pounds of force pushing the capped end off and it's a linear relationship, psi to force.

Now that we have glass tubing, how long will it be before we have some bizarre chem lab apparatus being used for reservoirs . . .









D.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'd need a lot more than the pressures shown to find the release point.
> 
> 10 psi only exerts 1.25 pounds of force pushing the capped end off and it's a linear relationship, psi to force.
> 
> Now that we have glass tubing, how long will it be before we have some bizarre chem lab apparatus being used for reservoirs . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Interesting, because some of the Push In style fittings were "popping" at around 5 PSI.
Even one compression type fitting couldn't hold more than 5 PSI on the Glass Tube.
I still call them compatible, but some definitely have a better "grip" than others.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Interesting, because some of the Push In style fittings were "popping" at around 5 PSI.
> Even one compression type fitting couldn't hold more than 5 PSI on the Glass Tube.
> I still call them compatible, but some definitely have a better "grip" than others.


Was that because it was glass or because the sizing wasn't right?


----------



## fast_fate

Sizing of the glass Tubes I got was very uniform, 5 measurements for OD on each length taken with a maximum of 0.1mm variation from the spec size.
So, you could conclude it is variation from specs on the fittings
or
the "grip" on the glass is not as good as it is with acrylic tube.
I'll have PSI results listed for both glass and acrylic tube when the time comes for publishing, soon








For two sizes at least, 12mm and 13mm. I don't have any 16mm acrylic tube to compare against.

*EDIT:* Actually just double checked and I do have some 16mm acrylic tube: EK-HD Tube 12/16mm - 4 slot for SLI connections


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I would go with mechanical grip not being there,acrylic and copper look and feel smooth but they certainly are not,glass differs in this as it is smooth even at a micro level.


----------



## Domler

@B NEGATIVE
Hey B, when you do the thermal shock method, do you prefer the water or open flame method?


----------



## Questors

A bit more of where the project is at the moment.

I decided to go with EK Nickel-Plexi Clean blocks this time over the CSQ. I already had the RAM blocks, must have been a late night buy since I don't recall ever ordering them.








The first thing I did was drop a small bit of nail polish remover into the MB I/O heatsink underside channel that holds the heatpipe to release the adhesive, heat the block a bit and gently work the heatpipe out. I wanted to use the I/O sink as a cover and for aesthetic reasons.



Having that done, the rest of the blocks were installed. The CPU block orientation (in/out) may need to be switched for better tube routing to accommodate the desired flow path. I have double pumps, but set into a single piece - double pump top kit from EKWB. Unless I create a pseudo dual loop (as it were) using a manifold setup, this system will be a single loop.





No, the anti-static wrist strap is not connected to the MB tray, it is clipped there to keep the work area organized. I hate a messy work area!















GPU blocks installed...





A shot of RAM and heatsink - nothing super exciting. I am using Crucial 2133 DDR4 RAM - 32 GB. I have some already that easily clocks up to 2400+ (hit 2666 stable with previous kit) and 32 GB can be had on the cheap.



For the days when nothing wants to work correctly, some inspiration is necessary! 

If Chuck can have kids in his 60s, by gosh, that acrylic WILL bend the way I want it too... heat or no heat!









*Edit for RAM Specs


----------



## Mayhem

I have a glass res in front of me that has been made for a EK x3 res, the threads have been Glass welded onto the thick glass tube. we have not had testing time yet nor can show pics until we've tested. But it does look nice. once we have more info ill try and post if im allowed. Lost my rubber o-rings for the x3 as well which is a pain will need to buy some more or another x3 grrrrrrrr.


----------



## Domler

@Mayhem?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> Hey B, when you do the thermal shock method, do you prefer the water or open flame method?


Water. Its proving problematic tho,getting the scoring deep enough is hard with a glass cutter,moving on to triangular profile files to get the depth.
Im trying to find an alternative to grinding and dust.....I know I sound tinfoil hat about glass dust but that crap is no bueno,I want a DIY fool proof method with the minimum of tools and easily replicated with good results. I dont want to hear stories of 'how young Billy ingested the dust' and got tore up......

You can do the filing underwater and just transfer between the hot and cold,this is my ideal,this is what im working towards.

I will be honest tho,the glass is being a dick.....Last time I tried glass,I just used a hot wire from work...that whole experiment went south tho,i made my own bends and every tube pretty much broke as I couldnt aneal the tube afterwards,when it cooled,it was riddled with stress points.
Micks done the legwork with angles and recent fittings have allowed for clean jointing so his tube will work.

I think it will do well,if the cutting process can be 'dumbed down' a little.


----------



## Mayhem

Couldn't dumb it down more than this ->




How ever this is much better




Excuse chewing gum stress doesn't help but gum does.

I know im no TTL btw when i get some time with some one who can do the cam work ill do a better one.

We have noticed one thing, some makers of fittings simply do not do a good enough job on there QC as there fitting diameter fluctuates quite a lot and im talking it can be measured in +1/-1 mm which can equate to a 2mm gap at times (this was tested over 10 fittings from lots of manufacturers). Its not for us to say who and its defiantly not for us to review fittings this is down to independent users from us. I do not care to alienate any company.


----------



## mouacyk

I am been converted and will never look back, especially on GPUs!


----------



## snef

i think tomorrow i will able to do leak test


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> I am been converted and will never look back, especially on GPUs!


Welcome to the club








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i think tomorrow i will able to do leak test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You are always rocking it, Snef. Which coolant are you planning?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Welcome to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are always rocking it, Snef. Which coolant are you planning?


Thanks

DazMode Protector and Feser UV Green Dye


----------



## Solonowarion

Beautiful Sneff. White and green seem unlikely to do well but this the first one I have really liked.


----------



## rsvette12

Big fan Sneff Great builds







thanks for sharing them


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Sizing of the glass Tubes I got was very uniform, 5 measurements for OD on each length taken with a maximum of 0.1mm variation from the spec size.
> So, you could conclude it is variation from specs on the fittings
> or
> the "grip" on the glass is not as good as it is with acrylic tube.
> I'll have PSI results listed for both glass and acrylic tube when the time comes for publishing, soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For two sizes at least, 12mm and 13mm. I don't have any 16mm acrylic tube to compare against.
> 
> *EDIT:* Actually just double checked and I do have some 16mm acrylic tube: EK-HD Tube 12/16mm - 4 slot for SLI connections


That would be great man.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Couldn't dumb it down more than this ->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How ever this is much better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse chewing gum stress doesn't help but gum does.
> 
> I know im no TTL btw when i get some time with some one who can do the cam work ill do a better one.
> 
> We have noticed one thing, some makers of fittings simply do not do a good enough job on there QC as there fitting diameter fluctuates quite a lot and im talking it can be measured in +1/-1 mm which can equate to a 2mm gap at times (this was tested over 10 fittings from lots of manufacturers). Its not for us to say who and its defiantly not for us to review fittings this is down to independent users from us. I do not care to alienate any company.


Wow that's concerning. I had been meaning to collect up a bunch of different brand fittings to measure properly for a thread.
The variation you have seen ... Is that variation between two of the same brand or variation from the specified size?


----------



## derickwm

Do you even SSD?


----------



## BrjSan

Things are getting out of hand


----------



## Silent Scone

Yeah I do, on air with close to ambient temperatures









It's a great concept though


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you even SSD?


Ooh ooh, next magic trick can you make it get black PCBs too? ^_^ By magic, I mean.... Man that's sexy.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you even SSD?


Ok derrick. you better stop posting these or you will get robbed soon ;P


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Ooh ooh, next magic trick can you make it get black PCBs too? ^_^ By magic, I mean.... Man that's sexy.


Yeah, what is up with Intel using green PCBs? That's sooo 90's...









Those blocks are awesome though!!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Yeah I do, on air with close to ambient temperatures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a great concept though


Yes, your regular SSD's I bet. The heatsinks on these Intel 750 SSD's reach temps over 80°C.

Waterblocking these isn't nearly as mad as you might think.


----------



## mus1mus

I wish they can be integrated through the same loop with GPUs though.

Maybe taller SSDs or GPUs shrinking in size in the near future now that we have HBM?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I wish they can be integrated through the same loop with GPUs though.
> 
> Maybe taller SSDs or GPUs shrinking in size in the near future now that we have HBM?


Or just a longer terminal? Might not look as nice, but would be an easy solution.


----------



## Dango

Should use red PCB. More "Gamer" look.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Ok derrick. you better stop posting these or you will get robbed soon ;P


hmmm. .Boston isn't a far ride from where I am lol


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> hmmm. .Boston isn't a far ride from where I am lol


I am even closer...


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Should use red PCB. More "Gamer" look.


Red pcb's with gold traces need to come back, they were fairly sexy.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Sizing of the glass Tubes I got was very uniform, 5 measurements for OD on each length taken with a maximum of 0.1mm variation from the spec size.
> So, you could conclude it is variation from specs on the fittings
> or
> the "grip" on the glass is not as good as it is with acrylic tube.
> I'll have PSI results listed for both glass and acrylic tube when the time comes for publishing, soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For two sizes at least, 12mm and 13mm. I don't have any 16mm acrylic tube to compare against.
> 
> *EDIT:* Actually just double checked and I do have some 16mm acrylic tube: EK-HD Tube 12/16mm - 4 slot for SLI connections
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be great man.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Couldn't dumb it down more than this ->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How ever this is much better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its from a single brand, all brands hare varying sizes how ever 1 has stood out more. The best fittings are the sort that compress rubber onto the tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Excuse chewing gum stress doesn't help but gum does.
> 
> I know im no TTL btw when i get some time with some one who can do the cam work ill do a better one.
> 
> We have noticed one thing, some makers of fittings simply do not do a good enough job on there QC as there fitting diameter fluctuates quite a lot and im talking it can be measured in +1/-1 mm which can equate to a 2mm gap at times (this was tested over 10 fittings from lots of manufacturers). Its not for us to say who and its defiantly not for us to review fittings this is down to independent users from us. I do not care to alienate any company.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wow that's concerning. I had been meaning to collect up a bunch of different brand fittings to measure properly for a thread.
> The variation you have seen ... Is that variation between two of the same brand or variation from the specified size?
Click to expand...


----------



## MIGhunter

About to buy my EK kit, I don't think it comes with a drain set up. What do I need to put one in and keep it looking nice? t-connector and a whatever the stopcock thing is called?


----------



## khemist

Yeah, and ball valve, put a stop fitting on the end to look nicer if you have a spare.


----------



## TRusselo

hey guys, Im looking for suggestions on a new case.

looking for full tower.
looking for a clean minimalistic look.
lots of rad space!

Currently have H440 with 120x360 rad
2 water cooled cards and a water cooled 8 core fx (see sig)

I obviously no longer have enough rad space. I have to remove the case lid when gaming or crunching data.
Looking for a larger case that is clean looking like my current rig.



Oh btw ATI, if you happen to be reading this... Goodbye! I'm in the market for Nvidia for the first time in my life!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> hey guys, Im looking for suggestions on a new case.
> 
> looking for full tower.
> looking for a clean minimalistic look.
> lots of rad space!
> 
> Currently have H440 with 120x360 rad
> 2 water cooled cards and a water cooled 8 core fx (see sig)
> 
> I obviously no longer have enough rad space. I have to remove the case lid when gaming or crunching data.
> Looking for a larger case that is clean looking like my current rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh btw ATI, if you happen to be reading this... Goodbye! I'm in the market for Nvidia for the first time in my life!


Hmm... Since you mention fulltower then I would personally recommend the Phanteks Enthoo Primo, it's a very very good case and especially for the price. I mean if you have a large enough budget then I suppose something like the Caselabs Magnum SMA8 or Magnum STH10 would probably offer more options and space. However for an off the shelf case teh Enthoo Primo really is hard to beat.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Hmm... Since you mention fulltower then I would personally recommend the Phanteks Enthoo Primo, it's a very very good case and especially for the price. I mean if you have a large enough budget then I suppose something like the Caselabs Magnum SMA8 or Magnum STH10 would probably offer more options and space. However for an off the shelf case teh Enthoo Primo really is hard to beat.


I have a Caselabs TH10 and it is was too big, actually downsiding to the SM8.
Can't even move the computer by myself lol
It is on a lift roller..


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> hey guys, Im looking for suggestions on a new case.
> 
> looking for full tower.
> looking for a clean minimalistic look.
> lots of rad space!
> 
> Currently have H440 with 120x360 rad
> 2 water cooled cards and a water cooled 8 core fx (see sig)
> 
> I obviously no longer have enough rad space. I have to remove the case lid when gaming or crunching data.
> Looking for a larger case that is clean looking like my current rig.
> 
> Oh btw ATI, if you happen to be reading this... Goodbye! I'm in the market for Nvidia for the first time in my life!


If something slightly more compact interests you, you could get a Fractal Design Define S.. They can fit a 360 in the top and a 280 in the front, big window etc. Not quite as strongly made as the enthoo but I like the design and layout, it works well once assembled. It also has 4 filtered intakes plus the psu and can be setup for neutral or positive pressure.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> hey guys, Im looking for suggestions on a new case.
> 
> looking for full tower.
> looking for a clean minimalistic look.
> lots of rad space!
> 
> I personally love the fractal design. I have the define S which has no hard drive bays because the clean look is great.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> If something slightly more compact interests you, you could get a Fractal Design Define S.. They can fit a 360 in the top and a 280 in the front, big window etc. Not quite as strongly made as the enthoo but I like the design and layout, it works well once assembled. It also has 4 filtered intakes plus the psu and can be setup for neutral or positive pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this with my old pastel setup.
> I love this case.
> 
> The hard drives don't live in the main space so it looks really clean
Click to expand...


----------



## takthemon

Hey guys, I finished my first ever loop woot







...


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *takthemon*
> 
> Hey guys, I finished my first ever loop woot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job.


----------



## Recr3ational

Hello guys,
I was wondering if anyone know if I could do the "volt mod" on the Nzxt Grid?
Can i just switch the wires on the molex connector for it to allow 7v or even 5v?
I just wanted to lower the fan rpm in my radbox without using a dedicated fan controller.
Not 100% sure with electrics and how it works.
Thanks.


----------



## fast_fate

Something I put together this evening.

But what's it for


----------



## alltheGHz

Wow that looks cool, is it for a super extreme ITX rig?


----------



## snef




----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is why I want one. Absolutely stunning man!


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, I love how you painted the Corsair 120 SP and the UV effect. Well done!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Something I put together this evening.
> 
> But what's it for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Portable loop? Looks like you just plug in the QDC from a PC with blocks and its all set to go... (with a power cord too)

If not then maybe something for testing? Although this portable loop idea seems pretty awesome to me now


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Wow that looks cool, is it for a super extreme ITX rig?


It's not, but with some work it could be








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Portable loop? Looks like you just plug in the QDC from a PC with blocks and its all set to go... (with a power cord too)
> 
> If not then maybe something for testing? Although this portable loop idea seems pretty awesome to me now


Portable dual loop actually








But yes it's for a test, a very simple test actually, but set up something half decent for medium long term test period.
Soft Tubing shoot-out - Mayhems Vs PrimoChill Advanced LRT.
Just filled the loops now, each side has a long section of tube and I'll cut a section of tube out each fortnight or so and update on how clarity, dye adsorption and plasticizer leeching is going between the two


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It's not, but with some work it could be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Portable dual loop actually*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yes it's for a test, a very simple test actually, but set up something half decent for medium long term test period.
> Soft Tubing shoot-out - Mayhems Vs PrimoChill Advanced LRT.
> Just filled the loops now, each side has a long section of tube and I'll cut a section of tube out each fortnight or so and update on how clarity, dye adsorption and plasticizer leeching is going between the two


Very nice!


----------



## Gabrielzm

For those about to shop... PPC codes

Spend $50 and get 6% off: "HWEEN15-6"
Spend $150 and get 8% off: "HWEEN15-8"
Spend $500 or more and get 10% off: "HWEEN15-10"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from October 23rd through November 1st 2015. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> For those about to shop... PPC codes
> 
> Spend $50 and get 6% off: "HWEEN15-6"
> Spend $150 and get 8% off: "HWEEN15-8"
> Spend $500 or more and get 10% off: "HWEEN15-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from October 23rd through November 1st 2015. One coupon per order please.)


omg in the past few week I bought more then 1k from them


----------



## Millerboy3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> omg in the past few week I bought more then 1k from them


I'm at the 650 mark myself in the last 4 fays. -_- of course they come out with that now lol


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> hey guys, Im looking for suggestions on a new case.
> 
> looking for full tower.
> looking for a clean minimalistic look.
> lots of rad space!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Currently have H440 with 120x360 rad
> 2 water cooled cards and a water cooled 8 core fx (see sig)
> 
> I obviously no longer have enough rad space. I have to remove the case lid when gaming or crunching data.
> Looking for a larger case that is clean looking like my current rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh btw ATI, if you happen to be reading this... Goodbye! I'm in the market for Nvidia for the first time in my life!


You have a case thats geared for silence... So yes, you would have crappy temps.

If you want flexibility with rad space without breaking the bank... The Enthoo Primo is your best bang for your buck ptice range.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> For those about to shop... PPC codes
> 
> Spend $50 and get 6% off: "HWEEN15-6"
> Spend $150 and get 8% off: "HWEEN15-8"
> Spend $500 or more and get 10% off: "HWEEN15-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from October 23rd through November 1st 2015. One coupon per order please.)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> omg in the past few week I bought more then 1k from them


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Millerboy3*
> 
> I'm at the 650 mark myself in the last 4 fays. -_- of course they come out with that now lol


Wonder if we email them if they will refund us ;p I just bought $650 worth of stuff Friday morning, which was the 23rd technically.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Wonder if we email them if they will refund us ;p I just bought $650 worth of stuff Friday morning, which was the 23rd technically.


same spent over $150 on the 23rd also but I doubt it.


----------



## BrjSan

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="snef" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/92130#post_24535532"]















[/quote]



Snef . . . Two questins plz

- what cooler mix used ?
- are those leds UV? Or normal RGB ones?

Freakin awsome by the way.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> quote name="snef" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/92130#post_24535532"]


Snef . . . Two questins plz

- what cooler mix used ?
- are those leds UV? Or normal RGB ones?

Freakin awsome by the way.[/quote]

Thanks a lot,

for coolant
I used distilled water with Dazmode protector and Feser one UV green dye

around 25mil of dye (half bottle) in 2 litre of distilled water





and for led
they are Darkside UV led strips Rev 4.0 (they glow purple instead of blue of the previous rev)

and Darkside white led strips,
just use latching switch to choose witch color I want


----------



## BrjSan

Thanks for the info , apreciate alot


----------



## pc-illiterate

i see people complaining right before a holiday that they bought stuff right before ppc has a new holiday coupon code. news flash people. unless you absolutely have to have something, wait for a holiday weekend because ppc *always* has a coupon on a holiday weekend. you would think people see this enough as there is a holiday with a coupon almost every month.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Doesn't even have to be a holiday, they even had a Back to School sale.


----------



## Domler

My replacment HWL 360 sr2 multiport came in today and it's perfect. Thank you HWL and PPCS for replacing and for a really quick turnaround. Now for some picks of the new rads going into the rebuild.


The one on the left is for the titan x.
The two on the right are for the cpu.
I love running my fans at 700 or lower. And overclocks really well. I'm stoked.


----------



## barsh90




----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> My replacment HWL 360 sr2 multiport came in today and it's perfect. Thank you HWL and PPCS for replacing and for a really quick turnaround. Now for some picks of the new rads going into the rebuild.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/spouler]
> 
> The one on the left is for the titan x.
> The two on the right are for the cpu.
> I love running my fans at 700 or lower. And overclocks really well. I'm stoked.


Your Titan X would benefit on the larger rad space rather than your CPU.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Your Titan X would benefit on the larger rad space rather than your CPU.


Probly would. It's more for looks than anything. Right now I have a 4790k over locked to 4.7 at 1.28v, titan x at 1400, 32gb ram and misfit all cooled by a 360 and 240. Cpu gets to 65 on the hottest core and the titan x hits 42 at peak. Fans are nactua industrials 2000rpm running at 700 rpms. Got an s8 and put the res in the top corner and both rads in front. Got done and couldn't see the res from my seat. Gonna switch to a dual loop with two so 250 res in front, and the two rads on top with the 240 over the cpu, allowing access to the top of the res. Mayhems glass tubing, and gonna try aurora. I think it will look kinda cool. I hope so cause it cost a Lot flippng them around, all new tubing, fittings, rads, parts from caselabs. Getting very close now. I'm getting pumped.
Current setup

I covered the window on the back side with vynil so I didn't see the wall anymore. Thinkning about add a decal or something.


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys I recently installed my waterblocks on my graphics cards, however I am quite worried about this:

The GPU's sag a little bit, and also I feel like the backplate is flexing a little. I am 100% positive that I installed everything correctly.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys I recently installed my waterblocks on my graphics cards, however I am quite worried about this:
> 
> The GPU's sag a little bit, and also I feel like the backplate is flexing a little. I am 100% positive that I installed everything correctly.


Those backplates are solid metal, it looks like either the sli bridge us pulling the cards together at the back or the sli links are pushing the bottom card down. Either way the flexing is happening at the pci-e slot instead of the rest of the card which is kinda bad. If you remove the sli bridge and reseat the. cards they should sit straight.. assuming the motherboard slots line up with the back of the case correctly.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Those backplates are solid metal, it looks like either the sli bridge us pulling the cards together at the back or the sli links are pushing the bottom card down. Either way the flexing is happening at the pci-e slot instead of the rest of the card which is kinda bad. If you remove the sli bridge and reseat the. cards they should sit straight.. assuming the motherboard slots line up with the back of the case correctly.


Even when the cards are out of the system, there is still some flexing on the backplate:



The pci slot on the card is straight along with the rest of the pcb of the card. This is happening on both cards


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Even when the cards are out of the system, there is still some flexing on the backplate:
> 
> 
> 
> The pci slot on the card is straight along with the rest of the pcb of the card. This is happening on both cards


Looking at the previous picture in the case the top card looked straight and the bottom one was angled downwards pivoting at the pci-e slot with the card itself still being straight. I have a 780ti with the acetal block that covers the full length of the card and the black metal backplate, compared to my gtx 480's with just the blocks and no backplate the 780ti is solid as a rock and all flex I've had when installing it came from the slot only.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Looking at the previous picture in the case the top card looked straight and the bottom one was angled downwards pivoting at the pci-e slot with the card itself still being straight. I have a 780ti with the acetal block that covers the full length of the card and the black metal backplate, compared to my gtx 480's with just the blocks and no backplate the 780ti is solid as a rock and all flex I've had when installing it came from the slot only.


So what does this mean? Are my cards okay to run?


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> So what does this mean? Are my cards okay to run?


It should work, my gtx 480's were a lot worse and still lasted me over 3yrs.. Personally I would try installing the cards with nothing linking them and see if they sit straight, then try linking them one piece at a time to work out what is causing the problem.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> It should work, my gtx 480's were a lot worse and still lasted me over 3yrs.. Personally I would try installing the cards with nothing linking them and see if they sit straight, then try linking them one piece at a time to work out what is causing the problem.


The problem isn't just in the case. It also occurs while the cards are outside of the case just like the previous photo I posted before. I was just looking at my cards again and noticed the thermal pads inder the backplate. I know this is a silly question, but could there be a possibility that thermal pads under the backplate are causing it to flex? Should I remove them and check?


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> The problem isn't just in the case. It also occurs while the cards are outside of the case just like the previous photo I posted before. I was just looking at my cards again and noticed the thermal pads inder the backplate. I know this is a silly question, but could there be a possibility that thermal pads under the backplate are causing it to flex? Should I remove them and check?


Ah. I just had a better look at the last pic, it does seem like something is in there causing the backplate to bow.. Did you use the pads included with the backplate as directed? It looks like you've put some behind the vrms, the backplate on my card only came with pads for the memory if the card was a titan black instead of a 780ti. If the card is a reference model but came with extra thermal pads on the back then you'd need to remove them to install the backplate properly, it's designed for a bare card.


----------



## Ironsmack

Why dont you just take the backplate off and double check?


----------



## ali13245

Okay so I went ahead and removed the thermal pads off of the backplate and this is what it looks like now:


I can still see a very slight bend. Can anyone here who owns a watercooled EVGA GTX 980 video card let me know if you have experienced a similar issue? Also this waterblock is meant for the reference gtx 980 but works with evga gtx 980 acx2.0. Do I need to put the thermal pads under the backplate if I am using the EVGA card?


----------



## mbondPDX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I can still see a very slight bend. Can anyone here who owns a watercooled EVGA GTX 980 video card let me know if you have experienced a similar issue? Also this waterblock is meant for the reference gtx 980 but works with evga gtx 980 acx2.0. Do I need to put the thermal pads under the backplate if I am using the EVGA card?


I'm glad I ran across your post. I have a watercooled EVGA GTX 980 and did the same thing with putting thermal pads under the back plate. It has a slight bend so I'll be removing the pads to see if that helps. I'm just not sure when I'll have the time.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbondPDX*
> 
> I'm glad I ran across your post. I have a watercooled EVGA GTX 980 and did the same thing with putting thermal pads under the back plate. It has a slight bend so I'll be removing the pads to see if that helps. I'm just not sure when I'll have the time.


Just a heads up, even when I removed the thermal pads there was still a slight bow to the backplate. I'm just wondering if this is supposed to be normal. Would be nice if a rep could respond to these issues.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Just a heads up, even when I removed the thermal pads there was still a slight bow to the backplate. I'm just wondering if this is supposed to be normal. Would be nice if a rep could respond to these issues.


Try posting here: http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Just a heads up, even when I removed the thermal pads there was still a slight bow to the backplate. I'm just wondering if this is supposed to be normal. Would be nice if a rep could respond to these issues.


My reference 780ti came with a bare pcb on the back and the backplate installed and fitted straight.

I think by installing it with the thermal pads and screwing it down you would have bent the backplate because the block on the other side of the card under the vrms is stronger.

Maybe try flattening the backplate with a big stack of phonebooks and a bucket of water or something overnight.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> My reference 780ti came with a bare pcb on the back and the backplate installed and fitted straight.
> 
> I think by installing it with the thermal pads and screwing it down you would have bent the backplate because the block on the other side of the card under the vrms is stronger.
> 
> Maybe try flattening the backplate with a big stack of phonebooks and a bucket of water or something overnight.


I think that would probably crush the card lol. I have contacted PPC's about this issue, and I am currently awaiting a response from them.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I think that would probably crush the card lol. I have contacted PPC's about this issue, and I am currently awaiting a response from them.


Not with the card attached lol.. I meant take the backplate off, put it top side down on something flat and strong, then put books and then something heavy like a bucket of water on top.

EK and ppc's might help you but they don't have to if you bent it yourself like I think you did, and honestly it's not that hard to fix it yourself.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Not with the card attached lol.. I meant take the backplate off, put it top side down on something flat and strong, then put books and then something heavy like a bucket of water on top.
> 
> EK and ppc's might help you but they don't have to if you bent it yourself like I think you did, and honestly it's not that hard to fix it yourself.


I took the backplate off and the thing is straight as an arrow. I don't see how I could have bent it. Only when it is applied to the card it begins to curve. I messaged a friend about this issue, and he said it might be the screws that are causing this.

This is his card:


This is mine:


I know I didn't use the wrong screws because all the screws that were needed to put before the backplate went on are a M2.5X4 screw which is what I used. if you can tell in the pictures, the screws look different from one another, and he told me that the wrong screws might have came with my blocks.

Edit: I just put the backplate top down like you said, and noticed that when I push down on the lower right edge, the top left edge tilts up. So I'm assuming that the backplate is slightly bent then? I couldn't possibly have bent this myself seeing as it is solid metal like you stated previously. All the screws that were used were installed according to the installation manual.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I took the backplate off and the thing is straight as an arrow. I don't see how I could have bent it. Only when it is applied to the card it begins to curve. I messaged a friend about this issue, and he said it might be the screws that are causing this.
> 
> This is his card:
> 
> 
> This is mine:
> 
> 
> I know I didn't use the wrong screws because all the screws that were needed to put before the backplate went on are a M2.5X4 screw which is what I used. if you can tell in the pictures, the screws look different from one another, and he told me that the wrong screws might have came with my blocks.
> 
> Edit: I just put the backplate top down like you said, and noticed that when I push down on the lower right edge, the top left edge tilts up. So I'm assuming that the backplate is slightly bent then? I couldn't possibly have bent this myself seeing as it is solid metal like you stated previously. All the screws that were used were installed according to the installation manual.


You might be onto something there, I wish I wasn't on my phone so I could see it properly. Maybe ask EK about it.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> You might be onto something there, I wish I wasn't on my phone so I could see it properly. Maybe ask EK about it.


I emailed the hardware rep, but I don't think he'll be replying anytime soon. Right now the card is without the backplate and is straight all the way through. So the issue is definitely from the backplate. I would be glad to show you a video of how it looks like if you are interested.

Edit: Okay never mind, it turns out the tilt is normal because there is an ek badge that is positioned outwards in the lower corner


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Spindle is fitted and working.......Im resisting the urge to get a watercooled spindle and slapping an EK AIO on it.......


----------



## Domler

@B NEGATIVE
Search your feelings. You know it to be true.


----------



## willemdoom

What kind of stuff are you planning on manufacturing with it?


----------



## derickwm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was just looking at Lian Li's Desks and the wall mountable (still up in the air on that since I'd probably rather build a wall mount - possibly design a frame like we use in the gallery here)


----------



## ali13245

Would it be alright if run my waterblocked gpu's for about 10 seconds without any cooling hooked up? I just want to test if the cards are still working properly. I'm kind of worried that I might have damaged the cards through all the handling I did while installing the blocks on the cards. I just want to boot up then immediately turn off the system


----------



## alltheGHz

Derickwm how did you sleeve those cables in the pic above?


----------



## derickwm

SATA sleeve from Mainframe Custom


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Would it be alright if run my waterblocked gpu's for about 10 seconds without any cooling hooked up? I just want to test if the cards are still working properly. I'm kind of worried that I might have damaged the cards through all the handling I did while installing the blocks on the cards. I just want to boot up then immediately turn off the system


I did with mine. Just long enough to see if it'll make it to windows. No problem. Then turned right off.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I did with mine. Just long enough to see if it'll make it to windows. No problem. Then turned right off.


Thanks!







Just booted into the bios and both cards showed up in my board explorer


----------



## aaronstransam

It's finally done. Silent member for a while now. Thanks for all the "how two's" and ppcs discount. I humbly submit for ocn approval my full 900d.


----------



## aaronstransam

And with the lights off


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> It's finally done. Silent member for a while now. Thanks for all the "how two's" and ppcs discount. I humbly submit for ocn approval my full 900d.


That is a fantastic job you have done there. I really like the lighting. Nice bends on the rigid tubing too.


----------



## aaronstransam

Thanks alot. I have a good pile of "not so nice" bent tubes lol. always used soft lines till now


----------



## Chopper1591

YES... omg yes.
Finally I did it.

Managed to make my pump (semi) silent.
Maybe some of you remember me posting here a while back. Looking for advice how to reduce the annoying vibrations I was experiencing with my mcp-655. The pump is coupled with an EK res/top and using the Uni Holder to secure it to the back of my case.

Here:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Maybe you can see it on the photo. I used some isolation strip to try and absorb the vibrations, didn't help much (or at all).
Of course I got the advice to not mount it to the back panel of the case, as it being rather flimsy. And I agree, it is thin material. But I couldn't place it in the bottom of my 650D case because it is rather full already.









So today I decided to have a look around the house again and try to find a way to make it quiet(er).
First I decided to unscrew the pump all together, hold it in my hand and power up the system. And of course it was almost quiet, even at setting 5.









Tried multiple things. Even thought about making some holder or something to make it float. At least not bolted down to the case. But I couldn't find anything and wanted to just bolt it down again because I was getting frustrated. Haha

But, stubborn me, decided to try one more thing. I had some fan mounts (?) laying around. These little ones.


Were pretty good quality actually, very soft rubber. Had to put two rubber washers between it and the case (in the large gap (just above the 2cm marker in the picture) to make it a tight fit onto the case. First I thought about just letting the Uni Holder rest on the rubber of those things but the thing was too heavy and wouldn't stay in place. So I just attached it by pulling it through the holes of the Uni Holder.

And what do you know. Even at setting 5 it is rather quiet. Somewhat louder then when I had it in my hand. But overall I am very happy with it. Especially since it didn't cost a thing. Else I would've probably just bought another set of decoupler bolts. Like the ones I have used to mount my second radiator.

I mean these ones:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







End result, don't mind the phone picture. And wow, does it always look dusty when using the flash


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Wow, Been Gone for 5 Day and 100 Posts later.

Some Nice Builds that Popped up.









@Faster_is_better

I see what you're getting at with the Glass tubing. Really Pondering it for the "Next" Build now.









TCO


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> YES... omg yes.
> Finally I did it.
> 
> Managed to make my pump (semi) silent.
> Maybe some of you remember me posting here a while back. Looking for advice how to reduce the annoying vibrations I was experiencing with my mcp-655. The pump is coupled with an EK res/top and using the Uni Holder to secure it to the back of my case.
> 
> Here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you can see it on the photo. I used some isolation strip to try and absorb the vibrations, didn't help much (or at all).
> Of course I got the advice to not mount it to the back panel of the case, as it being rather flimsy. And I agree, it is thin material. But I couldn't place it in the bottom of my 650D case because it is rather full already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I decided to have a look around the house again and try to find a way to make it quiet(er).
> First I decided to unscrew the pump all together, hold it in my hand and power up the system. And of course it was almost quiet, even at setting 5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried multiple things. Even thought about making some holder or something to make it float. At least not bolted down to the case. But I couldn't find anything and wanted to just bolt it down again because I was getting frustrated. Haha
> 
> But, stubborn me, decided to try one more thing. I had some fan mounts (?) laying around. These little ones.
> 
> 
> Were pretty good quality actually, very soft rubber. Had to put two rubber washers between it and the case (in the large gap (just above the 2cm marker in the picture) to make it a tight fit onto the case. First I thought about just letting the Uni Holder rest on the rubber of those things but the thing was too heavy and wouldn't stay in place. So I just attached it by pulling it through the holes of the Uni Holder.
> 
> And what do you know. Even at setting 5 it is rather quiet. Somewhat louder then when I had it in my hand. But overall I am very happy with it. Especially since it didn't cost a thing. Else I would've probably just bought another set of decoupler bolts. Like the ones I have used to mount my second radiator.
> 
> I mean these ones:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End result, don't mind the phone picture. And wow, does it always look dusty when using the flash


Since you have a D5 and not a DDC it should be rather easy to make it more or less silent. Just take some foam and cut a hole in it the size of the back end of the pump and place the pump in that, then you can easily either glue or screw the foam to the uni holder. Just what I would do since the D5 is watercooled and all that







The good thing is that you found a way with those rubber mounts, although I would be rather careful since they are designed to hold the weight of a fan and not a pump+reservoir.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> And with the lights off


What coolant/lightning is that? Looks very nice.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Since you have a D5 and not a DDC it should be rather easy to make it more or less silent. Just take some foam and cut a hole in it the size of the back end of the pump and place the pump in that, then you can easily either glue or screw the foam to the uni holder. Just what I would do since the D5 is watercooled and all that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good thing is that you found a way with those rubber mounts, although I would be rather careful since they are designed to hold the weight of a fan and not a pump+reservoir.


Dude, genius. Why didn't I think about that.









I though my head of about this thing... But of course there is more to it then just silence the connection between the Uni Holder and the case.
Your idea should work out pretty nice actually.

And true. I am not very fond of the way it is secured now. It is some weight after all, a d5 with an x-res 140 top and the water in it.
Now to search for some proper foam.

Any ideas for a cheap solution?


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> What coolant/lightning is that? Looks very nice.


just water and mayhem UV blue/clear dye with 4 UV cold cathodes and 1 blue led in res


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Dude, genius. Why didn't I think about that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I though my head of about this thing... But of course there is more to it then just silence the connection between the Uni Holder and the case.
> Your idea should work out pretty nice actually.
> 
> And true. I am not very fond of the way it is secured now. It is some weight after all, a d5 with an x-res 140 top and the water in it.
> Now to search for some proper foam.
> 
> Any ideas for a cheap solution?


really any foam will do as long as you make sure it's not to rigid and that it's strong enough to keep the pump in it's place so I would say something like a foam matrass is to soft while something like synthetic cork is to rigid. Hopefully you can find something that fits nicely between those, although I have not clue where to start looking for that


----------



## aaronstransam

You could try something like this.http://m.ebay.com/itm/250634756852 maybe check McMaster carr


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> really any foam will do as long as you make sure it's not to rigid and that it's strong enough to keep the pump in it's place so I would say something like a foam matrass is to soft while something like synthetic cork is to rigid. Hopefully you can find something that fits nicely between those, although I have not clue where to start looking for that


I have an idea.
That sort of stuff is mostly something that people just trow away.









Probably with density like this:


Shoggy sandwich have good properties, but too expensive IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> You could try something like this.http://m.ebay.com/itm/250634756852 maybe check McMaster carr


Yeah... that is actually what is supplied with the Uni holder and doesn't work at all.

The trick with decoupling is to de-couple. So not screwing it at all.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I have an idea.
> That sort of stuff is mostly something that people just trow away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably with density like this:
> 
> 
> Shoggy sandwich have good properties, but too expensive IMO.
> Yeah... that is actually what is supplied with the Uni holder and doesn't work at all.
> 
> The trick with decoupling is to de-couple. So not screwing it at all.


Should work fine, if youre moving the case around a lot you mihgt want to concider making a frame around it so that the thing toesnt fall out the first time you move the case.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Should work fine, if youre moving the case around a lot you mihgt want to concider making a frame around it so that the thing toesnt fall out the first time you move the case.


Good tip.
But I don't move it a lot.
Will probably apply double sided take to both sides though. Don't know if that will help much... but to be sure.

What do you think about thickness? I guess it needs a fair thick piece to absorb the vibrations effectively.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Dude, genius. Why didn't I think about that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I though my head of about this thing... But of course there is more to it then just silence the connection between the Uni Holder and the case.
> Your idea should work out pretty nice actually.
> 
> And true. I am not very fond of the way it is secured now. It is some weight after all, a d5 with an x-res 140 top and the water in it.
> Now to search for some proper foam.
> 
> Any ideas for a cheap solution?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really any foam will do as long as you make sure it's not to rigid and that it's strong enough to keep the pump in it's place so I would say something like a foam matrass is to soft while something like synthetic cork is to rigid. Hopefully you can find something that fits nicely between those, although I have not clue where to start looking for that
Click to expand...

This:


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> This:


That looks nice.
But did you really still bolt it down?









Why?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> This:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks nice.
> But did you really still bolt it down?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why?
Click to expand...

It already had the mounting holes so I used them. I don't think it was necessary though, actually it would probably be even quieter if it wasn't attached and just floated on that pad.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> It already had the mounting holes so I used them. I don't think it was necessary though, actually it would probably be even quieter if it wasn't attached and just floated on that pad.


Exactly.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spindle is fitted and working.......Im resisting the urge to get a watercooled spindle and slapping an EK AIO on it.......


I have been looking at the Shapeoko because of your post. What spindle did you end up getting? Collets?


----------



## Origondoo

Does anyone have PrimoChill CTR Phase II High Flow D5 Enabled Reservoir System 240mm?

I would like to know the distances between all fixation points. Can anyone help on that?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Does anyone have PrimoChill CTR Phase II High Flow D5 Enabled Reservoir System 240mm?
> 
> I would like to know the distances between all fixation points. Can anyone help on that?


I haven't, but they do look nice IMO.

Have you contacted Primo about it? Seems to be the most logic approach.


----------



## TPham

Corsair 900D dual loop + clean build. Half way done lol... Input?


----------



## BrjSan

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> Corsair 900D dual loop + clean build. Half way done lol... Input?






Niccceeeeee

- You painted the gpu back plates?
- Are those shelf/tray/cage plate from ColdZero?
- Any Build log?

peace


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> 
> Niccceeeeee
> 
> - You painted the gpu back plates?
> - Are those shelf/tray/cage plate from ColdZero?
> - Any Build log?
> 
> peace


Yes I did paint the gpu back plates (it was the EK black one)
Yes those are from ColdZero (he just released the full MB board so I bought it the min it released)
I did make a build log here but no one viewing it so I stop and log it at another forum. But I think I will make another build log.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> Corsair 900D dual loop + clean build. Half way done lol... Input?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like to color scheme. Sadly the ram blocks stand out to much IMO, it being copper. But the fluid will probably fix that somewhat. Which color are you going to run?

I would personally use some extenders on the vrm block to make the tubing inline with the other tubing. Know what I mean?
Besides that. How are you going to set up the In and Out of the first loop? Wouldn't it be better if you use one port of the right ram block to go to the res? I think it will be hard to make it clean the way you have it setup now. Just my









I am curious as to how this will turn out. Which rads are you going to use?


----------



## Methodical

I say run either white or black fluid^^^.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> It's finally done. Silent member for a while now. Thanks for all the "how two's" and ppcs discount. I humbly submit for ocn approval my full 900d.


Looks great!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> YES... omg yes.
> Finally I did it.
> 
> Managed to make my pump (semi) silent.
> Maybe some of you remember me posting here a while back. Looking for advice how to reduce the annoying vibrations I was experiencing with my mcp-655. The pump is coupled with an EK res/top and using the Uni Holder to secure it to the back of my case.
> 
> Here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you can see it on the photo. I used some isolation strip to try and absorb the vibrations, didn't help much (or at all).
> Of course I got the advice to not mount it to the back panel of the case, as it being rather flimsy. And I agree, it is thin material. But I couldn't place it in the bottom of my 650D case because it is rather full already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I decided to have a look around the house again and try to find a way to make it quiet(er).
> First I decided to unscrew the pump all together, hold it in my hand and power up the system. And of course it was almost quiet, even at setting 5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried multiple things. Even thought about making some holder or something to make it float. At least not bolted down to the case. But I couldn't find anything and wanted to just bolt it down again because I was getting frustrated. Haha
> 
> But, stubborn me, decided to try one more thing. I had some fan mounts (?) laying around. These little ones.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Were pretty good quality actually, very soft rubber. Had to put two rubber washers between it and the case (in the large gap (just above the 2cm marker in the picture) to make it a tight fit onto the case. First I thought about just letting the Uni Holder rest on the rubber of those things but the thing was too heavy and wouldn't stay in place. So I just attached it by pulling it through the holes of the Uni Holder.
> 
> And what do you know. Even at setting 5 it is rather quiet. Somewhat louder then when I had it in my hand. But overall I am very happy with it. Especially since it didn't cost a thing. Else I would've probably just bought another set of decoupler bolts. Like the ones I have used to mount my second radiator.
> 
> I mean these ones:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End result, don't mind the phone picture. And wow, does it always look dusty when using the flash
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did not recall a picture when you first asked for advice. Glad you found a solution, though the same express the same concern about those rubber mounts letting go. You are the best judge of how strong the mount solution is. Counterpoint - Would a set of small diameter thick O-rings or rubber faucet washers work with screws to ensure mount integrity?


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I like to color scheme. Sadly the ram blocks stand out to much IMO, it being copper. But the fluid will probably fix that somewhat. Which color are you going to run?
> 
> I would personally use some extenders on the vrm block to make the tubing inline with the other tubing. Know what I mean?
> Besides that. How are you going to set up the In and Out of the first loop? Wouldn't it be better if you use one port of the right ram block to go to the res? I think it will be hard to make it clean the way you have it setup now. Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am curious as to how this will turn out. Which rads are you going to use?


I will be something like this. Note 1: the tube from the left ram go up to the rad will be the smaller 10mm tube just like the rest (I just put it in because i'm missing some fit and want to see what it look like). Note 2: Instead coming out from the MB block to the vga it will go to the right and then go all the way down to the bottom. the right top fitting will go straight to the res. and that complete the first loop.

I will use red coolant and hopefully it will match the ram block!


----------



## SteezyTN

So I recently got my new XSPC D5 PWM pump back from RMA. Is there a reason why I can only get 3500RPM on it, yet I can get the max 4800 on my swiftech D5 PWM? (I'm controlling them with corsair link)


----------



## derickwm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling


Amazing, first real and probably the nicest build I have seen in the PC-O8. What coolant are you using and are you using the integrated LEDs?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> just water and mayhem UV blue/clear dye with 4 UV cold cathodes and 1 blue led in res
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet. I recently
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Amazing. What coolant/leds are you using?
Click to expand...

Lian Li's included LED strips and EK's blue pastel coolant


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling


That is a serious bend to go down to those pcie cards. Very nice job.

Hardline definitely shows some superiority over soft tubing with this layout.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I recently got my new XSPC D5 PWM pump back from RMA. Is there a reason why I can only get 3500RPM on it, yet I can get the max 4800 on my swiftech D5 PWM? (I'm controlling them with corsair link)


Because Corsair link...........


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because Corsair link...........


Then why can I get 4800 on my swiftech???


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because Corsair link...........
> 
> 
> 
> Then why can I get 4800 on my swiftech???
Click to expand...

Probably different PWM implementation.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spindle is fitted and working.......Im resisting the urge to get a watercooled spindle and slapping an EK AIO on it.......
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It would be in your true nature to watercool, lol


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Did not recall a picture when you first asked for advice. Glad you found a solution, though the same express the same concern about those rubber mounts letting go. You are the best judge of how strong the mount solution is. Counterpoint - Would a set of small diameter thick O-rings or rubber faucet washers work with screws to ensure mount integrity?


Yeah I will change how it is secured now. Although it is pretty secure... I can pull the pump/res combo with decent force without it coming loose.
But, better safe then sorry. Right?

About the O-rings with screws. Tried that, but the back panel where it is secured to is just too flimsy and will transmit a lot of vibrations. It is not super loud but by a large margin the largest part of the system. I just think that is a shame considered the amount I paid for the loop so I could have a more silent (and a lot cooler) system.

Like someone else posted before I will try to find some nice foam and make a round hole in it, place that on the Uni Holder (with double-sided tape) and place the pump on there.

Like this:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> I will be something like this. Note 1: the tube from the left ram go up to the rad will be the smaller 10mm tube just like the rest (I just put it in because i'm missing some fit and want to see what it look like). Note 2: Instead coming out from the MB block to the vga it will go to the right and then go all the way down to the bottom. the right top fitting will go straight to the res. and that complete the first loop.
> 
> I will use red coolant and hopefully it will match the ram block!


Ok fair enough.
Thanks for the explanation. That should work out nicely indeed. I couldn't see it very clear in your original pictures.

Both loops same coolant? Would be a shame.


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Like this:
> 
> Ok fair enough.
> Thanks for the explanation. That should work out nicely indeed. I couldn't see it very clear in your original pictures.
> 
> Both loops same coolant? Would be a shame.


I was thinking same coolant but I also want red/blue just kinda scare because nothing else is blue


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> I was thinking same coolant but I also want red/blue just kinda scare because nothing else is blue


Why not white and red, or black and red?


----------



## TPham

white and red sound good!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> white and red sound good!


That's what I thought.
Now to decide which you want red.









Both will probably look nice but personally I always like the look of red coolant in the sli bridges.


----------



## Wolfsbora

@derickwm, you need to get yourself a couch, my friend!


----------



## aaronstransam

2 days no leaks so i thought id put up some better pics of my build. pics are from phone so sorry about glare

lights off

lights on

finally have a drain

















stealth drive hotwired to front reset swich



had to use flash to get a good pic of the internal monitor mod but doing so lost the U.V. effect







to much glare for phone to handle.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> 2 days no leaks so i thought id put up some better pics of my build. pics are from phone so sorry about glare
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lights off
> 
> lights on
> 
> finally have a drain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stealth drive hotwired to front reset swich
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had to use flash to get a good pic of the internal monitor mod but doing so lost the U.V. effect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to much glare for phone to handle.


And how did you do that internal monitor mod?


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> And how did you do that internal monitor mod?


it's a 12v 7 inch monitor kit for a rasberry pi. Then I cut the end off the power adapter and wired it to a molex plug. Made a bezel out of starboard and ran a hdmi around the back of the mobo tray and out the back to the gpu. I figured I'd try something different


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> it's a 12v 7 inch monitor kit for a rasberry pi. Then I cut the end off the power adapter and wired it to a molex plug. Made a bezel out of starboard and ran a hdmi around the back of the mobo tray and out the back to the gpu. I figured I'd try something different


Nice, I like it.

First time rigid tubing btw?
Looks good.

And lol at the drain valve. I also learned it the hard time. That thing really is necessary.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That would be great man.
> Wow that's concerning. I had been meaning to collect up a bunch of different brand fittings to measure properly for a thread.
> The variation you have seen ... Is that variation between two of the same brand or variation from the specified size?


Hey Jak,
My numbers on a range of fittings are now up


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Underwaters glass tube review.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/

A good summary,pretty much as you would expect it to go.

Im more interested in the fitting tolerance data coming later.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 2 days no leaks so i thought id put up some better pics of my build. pics are from phone so sorry about glare
> 
> lights off
> 
> lights on
> 
> finally have a drain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stealth drive hotwired to front reset swich
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had to use flash to get a good pic of the internal monitor mod but doing so lost the U.V. effect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to much glare for phone to handle.


I had a touchscreen in my s3 build a couple of years back,you can get the screens from buydisplay.com,cheap and various sizes/outputs available.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I had a touchscreen in my s3 build a couple of years back,you can get the screens from buydisplay.com,cheap and various sizes/outputs available.


Man B, you have really done everything, much respect. Clos3 Impact was beautiful.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I had a touchscreen in my s3 build a couple of years back,you can get the screens from buydisplay.com,cheap and various sizes/outputs available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man B, you have really done everything, much respect. Clos3 Impact was beautiful.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I was pleased with the way it came out.

I try to be original is possible with builds,Im always experimenting with materials and design features. There is a really cool trick that is good for windowed sides,you can remove nearly everything from a TV panel and have a clear window that has an image displayed in it fed via HDMI. When i have a TV going spare,thats my next thing to try.


----------



## aaronstransam

I've been really happy with the internal monitor. It has proved very handy for OCing gpus at full screen. I must say the bezel on yours looks outstanding. I've trying to figure out how to get rid of the hdmi cable out the back. Maybe a pcie extension to a nv 210 or something I can hide in the basement. Any ideas?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> I've been really happy with the internal monitor. It has proved very handy for OCing gpus at full screen. I must say the bezel on yours looks outstanding. I've trying to figure out how to get rid of the hdmi cable out the back. Maybe a pcie extension to a nv 210 or something I can hide in the basement. Any ideas?


Sadly,I had to hide mine in the ped and loop it out the back to the iGPU.

You want good looking mod parts? Get familiar with a CAD program,I use Solidworks,many use Sketch up. Make the part with fully defined dimensions,export to PDF of DXF/DWG and send to your local laser cutter or machinist. Job done.

The secret of modding stuff is easy...make sure your toolkit is up to the job.


----------



## Millerboy3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly,I had to hide mine in the ped and loop it out the back to the iGPU.
> 
> You want good looking mod parts? Get familiar with a CAD program,I use Solidworks,many use Sketch up. Make the part with fully defined dimensions,export to PDF of DXF/DWG and send to your local laser cutter or machinist. Job done.
> 
> The secret of modding stuff is easy...make sure your toolkit is up to the job.


Best advice you could get for making custom parts for sure!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Millerboy3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly,I had to hide mine in the ped and loop it out the back to the iGPU.
> 
> You want good looking mod parts? Get familiar with a CAD program,I use Solidworks,many use Sketch up. Make the part with fully defined dimensions,export to PDF of DXF/DWG and send to your local laser cutter or machinist. Job done.
> 
> The secret of modding stuff is easy...make sure your toolkit is up to the job.
> 
> 
> 
> Best advice you could get for making custom parts for sure!
Click to expand...

I have been thru the handmade phase,no matter how good you are... a machined part just roflstomps for finish. So much so I bought a mill as it was costing me 'buku dollah',much better to plow it in to that than keep spending elsewhere.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Man B, you have really done everything, much respect. Clos3 Impact was beautiful.


BNeg is 1 of the few who make quality builds and innovate with most builds. he is 1 of the few i have utmost respect for in this forum, even if he talks out his butt sometimes...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Man B, you have really done everything, much respect. Clos3 Impact was beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> BNeg is 1 of the few who make quality builds and innovate with most builds. he is 1 of the few i have utmost respect for in this forum, even if he talks out his butt sometimes...
Click to expand...

Asshat......


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been thru the handmade phase,no matter how good you are... a machined part just roflstomps for finish. So much so I bought a mill as it was costing me 'buku dollah',much better to plow it in to that than keep spending elsewhere.


I have a dremil and I am going through the handmade phase as well, what is the best way to get totally square corners on, say, a sheet of metal?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been thru the handmade phase,no matter how good you are... a machined part just roflstomps for finish. So much so I bought a mill as it was costing me 'buku dollah',much better to plow it in to that than keep spending elsewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a dremil and I am going through the handmade phase as well, what is the best way to get totally square corners on, say, a sheet of metal?
Click to expand...

Jigsaw,straight length of metal and a pair of clamps,use it as a guide. Dremels are a crap modding tool tbh,I dont get the fascination with them.....


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jigsaw,straight length of metal and a pair of clamps,use it as a guide. Dremels are a crap modding tool tbh,I dont get the fascination with them.....


They're extremely cheap, really easy to get your hands on, and quite easy to use, even if you're not that good. I think that's about it.


----------



## alltheGHz

Thank you B neg, are there any brands out there that you would recommend?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> BNeg is 1 of the few who make quality builds and innovate with most builds. he is 1 of the few i have utmost respect for in this forum, *even if he talks out his butt sometimes*...


He does have a mighty huge a$$









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jigsaw,straight length of metal and a pair of clamps,use it as a guide. *Dremels are a crap modding tool tbh,I dont get the fascination with them*.....


Dremels are the poor mans machine shop man.









They are a pain to use though. Drill press/jigsaw etc much much better. Now if I only had my own personal milling machine......


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jigsaw,straight length of metal and a pair of clamps,use it as a guide. Dremels are a crap modding tool tbh,I dont get the fascination with them.....


To add to this.... Buy some good quality hand files for finishing edges and the like.

Dremels have their place. Mainly use mine on other hobbies, however just last night I was using the high speed cutoff wheel to cut back the front flex bay locating studs on my SMA8.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks. I was pleased with the way it came out.
> 
> I try to be original is possible with builds,Im always experimenting with materials and design features. There is a really cool trick that is good for windowed sides,you can remove nearly everything from a TV panel and have a clear window that has an image displayed in it fed via HDMI. When i have a TV going spare,thats my next thing to try.


My new "unique" idea is 3 way x fire in my extended Parvum S2.0. I also seem to be one of the only S2.0 owners with copper tubing, and I love the way my rig looks right now! (Will post pics soon)

I just wish that I had the money to spend to do more builds than I have been doing. I picked up a Mac G5 that I want to put my back up rig + watercooling and a **** load of HDD's in, but I can't afford to.


----------



## derickwm

All done guys!
































































More:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling/40#post_24552129


----------



## Durtmagurt

Close to being done with my setup.


----------



## emsj86

@bneg now that you have that new machine will you be doing anything g custom work? Obviously for payment.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @bneg now that you have that new machine will you be doing anything g custom work? Obviously for payment.


Eventually.

If I do,it wont be on OCN because of the ridiculous ToS that makes sure OCN gets paid for nothing.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spindle is fitted and working.......Im resisting the urge to get a watercooled spindle and slapping an EK AIO on it.......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What spindle did you end up getting? Obviously not a small DeWalt router









I registered at the Shapeoko forum and have watched a few vids of the 3 in action.

Is it the 1.5Kw Huanyang?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfnCDI5I2yc


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> All done guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576139/sponsored-lian-li-pc-o8-xpower-gaming-titanium-skylake-liquid-cooling/40#post_24552129




Awesome work D man


----------



## MIGhunter

Quick question. I bought a fill port

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-fillport-g1-4-black-nickel.html

instead of a ball valve

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black-nickel.html

This was for my drain, is it really a big deal or can the fill port on the end of a tube be used as a drain?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Anything that opens can be used as a drain. It just seems less convenient.


----------



## Costas

A valve works best as you can simply close it off while connecting your drain hose to a longer hose etc results in a no spill situation.

If you simply have the fill port setup, then as soon as you unscrew the cover, fluid may start to pour out depending on how your hose is setup - have a bucket handy....









As stated above, while it will suffice it is a tad less convenient than a valve setup.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quick question. I bought a fill port
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-fillport-g1-4-black-nickel.html
> 
> instead of a ball valve
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black-nickel.html
> 
> This was for my drain, is it really a big deal or can the fill port on the end of a tube be used as a drain?


Should work no problem as stated above. I have an fillport fitting as drain. It does work, although a bit messy.
So make sure to place it somewhere where a tiny bit of spilling wont matter. Or make a long enough hose attached to it so you can hold it out of the case properly.

Mine is like this. Rotary fitting so I can swing it into a bucket:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








*BTW*
Remember my journey "Silence the D5 vibrations"?








As expected, one of the rubber fan-mounts I used to secure the Uni Holder has already come loose.

Did look around what to use as foam to place the pump on (between it and the Uni holder). Guess what, today new glass got delivered for a bedroom window. And what was beneath them?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I think this should work pretty nicely actually. To bad it looks very ugly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Spindle is fitted and working.......Im resisting the urge to get a watercooled spindle and slapping an EK AIO on it.......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What spindle did you end up getting? Obviously not a small DeWalt router
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I registered at the Shapeoko forum and have watched a few vids of the 3 in action.
> 
> Is it the 1.5Kw Huanyang?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfnCDI5I2yc
Click to expand...

It is indeed.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is indeed.


Cool, thanks! Trying to compile a list of stuff to round up if I decide to pull the trigger. I know it's hard to please everybody, but 48" x 48" for $2500 (if that's what the size upgrade ends up being) is pushing what I'd like to spend, plus space considerations. I was kind of hoping for a 36" x 36" (that would fit in a ~48" x 48" space) version for ~$1500 or so, but playing it by ear for now.

Looks pretty nice on there


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Should work no problem as stated above. I have an fillport fitting as drain. It does work, although a bit messy.
> So make sure to place it somewhere where a tiny bit of spilling wont matter. Or make a long enough hose attached to it so you can hold it out of the case properly.
> 
> Mine is like this. Rotary fitting so I can swing it into a bucket:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BTW*
> Remember my journey "Silence the D5 vibrations"?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As expected, one of the rubber fan-mounts I used to secure the Uni Holder has already come loose.
> 
> Did look around what to use as foam to place the pump on (between it and the Uni holder). Guess what, today new glass got delivered for a bedroom window. And what was beneath them?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think this should work pretty nicely actually. To bad it looks very ugly.


I was at the holoween store yesterday and they had black foam aplicator. Looked like high density and softhe but kinda small. Maybe you could find something bigger in your local beauty section of the drug store. Could work for what you need and not so ugly.gotta think outside the box sometimes lol.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Those old thick rubber mouse pads work great for isolation.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> I was at the holoween store yesterday and they had black foam aplicator. Looked like high density and softhe but kinda small. Maybe you could find something bigger in your local beauty section of the drug store. Could work for what you need and not so ugly.gotta think outside the box sometimes lol.


Hehe nice.
And true. Out of the box is king.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Those old thick rubber mouse pads work great for isolation.


Good point.

I have made something with the stuff I posted earlier.
Used double sided tape to secure it to the holder.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Then I actually tried to paint the stuff. Haha.
Worked out pretty nice IMO.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Somehow it doesn't make much of a difference at all. It actually looks like it is even louder then when I had it mounted with the fan mounts, which failed btw.
Tried to secure the holder with two of the decouplers, shown in the last picture, but when I placed the pump on the holder it didn't hold. So now I have the holder bolted down directly to the case. Maybe that is the cause of the noise.
I am somewhat giving it up.... for now.









Tips are welcome as always.


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hehe nice.
> And true. Out of the box is king.
> Good point.
> 
> I have made something with the stuff I posted earlier.
> Used double sided tape to secure it to the holder.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I actually tried to paint the stuff. Haha.
> Worked out pretty nice IMO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow it doesn't make much of a difference at all. It actually looks like it is even louder then when I had it mounted with the fan mounts, which failed btw.
> Tried to secure the holder with two of the decouplers, shown in the last picture, but when I placed the pump on the holder it didn't hold. So now I have the holder bolted down directly to the case. Maybe that is the cause of the noise.
> I am somewhat giving it up.... for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tips are welcome as always.


maybe you could try dynamat. Either stuck to pump bracket and case, or folded over like a taco and used to "tape/glue" the bracket on. It stops a truck from rattling for big bass and a small piece on a bell won't let it ring. Might just suck up the pump noise too. Kinda an expensive dart to throw though


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> maybe you could try dynamat. Either stuck to pump bracket and case, or folded over like a taco and used to "tape/glue" the bracket on. It stops a truck from rattling for big bass and a small piece on a bell won't let it ring. Might just suck up the pump noise too. Kinda an expensive dart to throw though


Yep, way to expensive. Haha
I did look into it before though. Should work well. But I might as well just buy a better case if I am going to spend that much to just silence something.


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yep, way to expensive. Haha
> I did look into it before though. Should work well. But I might as well just buy a better case if I am going to spend that much to just silence something.


maybe you can buy a rem from a car stereo place. Never know, they might just give you a small piece.


----------



## aaronstransam

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009VJ7R4S/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1446228396&sr=1-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=dynamat here's a dynamat competitor license plate kit for $8.99


----------



## LiquidHaus

its been too long since i've participated in this thread. i'd like to come back and do MOTM, but I feel like the builds now are too crazy for me lol.

here's mine


----------



## bluedevil

Anyone do a build in a CM MasterCase Pro 5 yet?


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Anyone do a build in a CM MasterCase Pro 5 yet?


Certainly: http://www.overclock.net/t/1568845/build-log-cooler-master-mastercase-5-masterchief-edition


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Anyone do a build in a CM MasterCase Pro 5 yet?


Are you considering one?

Nice at the price but a bit....wobbly.


----------



## catbuster

lifeisshort117 nice build, needs more photos


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> its been too long since i've participated in this thread. i'd like to come back and do MOTM, but I feel like the builds now are too crazy for me lol.
> 
> here's mine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I very much like this build. Fantastic work!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Are you considering one?
> 
> Nice at the price but a bit....wobbly.


wobbly? From what I seen....


----------



## Dango

I would chose Define S and R5 anytime over the Master Case. Much better layout with great support for water cooling.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> I would chose Define S and R5 anytime over the Master Case. Much better layout with great support for water cooling.


Good point. And at a cheaper price point.


----------



## snef




----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Epic as always.

Is that an DDC pump? With the red heatsink.


----------



## snef

Thanks

yes its a DDC pump but the Heatsink is white, the red is a reflection from the panel


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Should work no problem as stated above. I have an fillport fitting as drain. It does work, although a bit messy.
> So make sure to place it somewhere where a tiny bit of spilling wont matter. Or make a long enough hose attached to it so you can hold it out of the case properly.
> 
> Mine is like this. Rotary fitting so I can swing it into a bucket:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks. I bought on of these: EK-AF Y-Splitter Rotary 2F-1M G1/4 - Nickel. I was going to hook up a piece of tubing and the fill port to it as a drain. I'm using red tubing but the kit came with clear. I wasn't going to use any dye so I was thinking about using a piece of clear tubing so that it almost stealths the extra tubing at the bottom of the case. If that makes sense.


----------



## kizwan

What is the reason not using ball valve instead? Next best thing would be using QDC for drain port.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What is the reason not using ball valve instead? Next best thing would be using QDC for drain port.


Because i'm dumb and bought a drain fill port instead of a ball joint. What's a QDC?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> What's a QDC?


QDC = Quick Disconnect (fitting)

https://modmymods.com/fittings/quick-disconnect-fittings.html?limit=all

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?is_ajax=1&q=quick-disconnect


----------



## alltheGHz

Quick disconnects are the best thing ever, I absolutely love my koolance ones.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> yes its a DDC pump but the Heatsink is white, the red is a reflection from the panel


Hmm...
I mean this, circled in green:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Thanks. I bought on of these: EK-AF Y-Splitter Rotary 2F-1M G1/4 - Nickel. I was going to hook up a piece of tubing and the fill port to it as a drain. I'm using red tubing but the kit came with clear. I wasn't going to use any dye so I was thinking about using a piece of clear tubing so that it almost stealths the extra tubing at the bottom of the case. If that makes sense.


Makes sense. And will work out fine.
But like others said, a vale would work better. And that y splitter or something similar will be needed anyway.
For me it made sense to put the drain in the front radiator. Draining isn't optimal with my loop though. I need to tilt my case a lot to get all out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What is the reason not using ball valve instead? Next best thing would be using QDC for drain port.


They are nice to drain IMO, yes. But kinda expensive. At least 1.5 times more then a ball valve where I am at.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Quick disconnects are the best thing ever, I absolutely love my koolance ones.


Yeah I also love them, but don't use them.
They will most certainly be included in my next loop build. Although that one will probably be rigid tubing... and I don't think they have QDC's for acrylic/glass tubing yet.

*On the side note*. Pump vibration is driving me nuts again. Haha








I think it is mostly just my Corsair 650D case but I'm not sure. This is my first pump I ever got so maybe it is vibrating more then they usually do.
The front filter sometimes starts to vibrate and rattle. Then I give the case a soft tap or something to make it stop.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hmm...
> I mean this, circled in green:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yes its white with light trough the red panel, seem red


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yes its white with light trough the red panel, seem red


Ok, so it does. I like red better though.









And I decided to just buy the Phobya Noise Destructor to place under my pump.
Curious to see how good it is.

Any tips on how I should mount the pump? Maybe the dampening isn't really great now because there is little surface to absorb the vibrations. If the pump was dedicated I could orientate it 90 degrees so the pump itself is horizontal. Then I can use the whole surface of the pad. Do you get what I mean?

Suppose there is no way to use the Phobya thing without making a round hole in it...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> lifeisshort117 nice build, needs more photos


I'll be happy to oblige my good sir! I'll do a separate post with photos only. Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I very much like this build. Fantastic work!


Thank you! I very much appreciate that.

EDIT: didn't want to double post, so here we go...

fyi all these shots were at different times, with different lighting, even different locations. hence the edit variations..









-








-








-








-








-








-









I need to do a legit photo shoot with this thing. I've moved twice in the past year though so I need to set up a spot and I desperately need a compressor to dust it out completely lol


----------



## sinnedone

Looking good there @lifeisshort117


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking good there @lifeisshort117


I second this. Very slick.


----------



## MIGhunter

Silly fan question. My loop is going to look like this


The kit I have came with 1 rad and 3 fans and the fan splitter cable. I bought a 2nd rad, 2 more fans and forgot to get the cable.
1. Should I run the fans some other way?
2. Should I just buy a 2 fan splitter?
3. Would it be better to buy a 5 fan splitter or do the 3 and a 2?

I'm using a Fractual S case so there are no drive bays. Do they make an internal fan controller?


----------



## sdmf74

I use 2 swiftech 8 way splitters they are nice cause they are powered by the psu (molex or sata) Also all my fans are pwm


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I use 2 swiftech 8 way splitters they are nice cause they are powered by the psu (molex or sata) Also all my fans are pwm


*This one?*


----------



## IT Diva

I thought you guys might like my lighted res mod to add a little pop to my S8 and S5 builds . . . . .



Darlene


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> *On the side note*. Pump vibration is driving me nuts again. Haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is mostly just my Corsair 650D case but I'm not sure. This is my first pump I ever got so maybe it is vibrating more then they usually do.
> The front filter sometimes starts to vibrate and rattle. Then I give the case a soft tap or something to make it stop.


T e solution I came up with was to turn my pump all the way down. I found my temps weren't affected very much by having low flow rate. With 1 D5 vario on setting 1 (all* the way down) I was getting around 85lph, with 2 D5s at lowest setting I get about 150lph. On setting 1 the pump is literally silent


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> T e solution I came up with was to turn my pump all the way down. I found my temps weren't affected very much by having low flow rate. With 1 D5 vario on setting 1 (all* the way down) I was getting around 85lph, with 2 D5s at lowest setting I get about 150lph. On setting 1 the pump is literally silent


True, that makes it dead silent.
Sadly I have no flow meter and I can't seem to find out what my flow rate is by calculating.

Maybe someone here has an idea?
My loop is: EK Supremacy Evo (rather low restrict IIRC)>EK-FC 290x (these are rather low restricting, right?)>UT60 360 (low)>EK XTC 140.1 (EK says low restriction)>EK D5 X-Res Top.

Really anything over 1.5 setting on my D5 is noisy.


----------



## mus1mus

Setting 1, setting 1.5, setting 1.75

I think you guys should bas it off RPM as the knob on the d5 is just a tiny little variable resistor that doesn't have a definite effect just by lining things up unto a labeled value.

RPM value will give everyone a good grip of what those values are when trying to emulate stuff.


----------



## kizwan

My D5 at 5 completely silent (@mus1mus mine run at 4770 - 4856 RPM). Whenever I read post(s) complaining noisy D5 pump, I always go & put my ears near the pump to hear whether my pump is running or not. It does running though.







I think I should get flow meter too.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Setting 1, setting 1.5, setting 1.75
> 
> I think you guys should bas it off RPM as the knob on the d5 is just a tiny little variable resistor that doesn't have a definite effect just by lining things up unto a labeled value.
> 
> RPM value will give everyone a good grip of what those values are when trying to emulate stuff.


I get you.
But how can I see that when running the pump straight of the PSU.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My D5 at 5 completely silent (@mus1mus mine run at 4770 - 4856 RPM). Whenever I read post(s) complaining noisy D5 pump, I always go & put my ears near the pump to hear whether my pump is running or not. It does running though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should get flow meter too.


Yeah the pump itself is pretty quiet even at full speed. If I hold it in my hand I can hardly hear it on any setting.
But when I place it on the Uni holder, be it bolted or through my home-made decoupler, the case gets very audible.



Phobya Noise Blocker will be here monday or tuesday.
I hope it does reduce the vibrations a lot. Although I am not sure as I have to cut a decent amount of it to be able to mount the pump. Similar to the above picture. Round hole for the pump.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> *This one?*


That's the one, and it works great. It's also easy to hide.


----------



## mus1mus

The pump has a seperate pin for RPM.
At 4800RPM, my fans are louder than my pump. Considering they are 1200RPM fans.









I can feel vibrations but simply coz I don't have decoupling paddings on.









Hiw are you routing the res though?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> *This one?*


Have one of each but prefer this one (sata)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The pump has a seperate pin for RPM.
> At 4800RPM, my fans are louder than my pump. Considering they are 1200RPM fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can feel vibrations but simply coz I don't have decoupling paddings on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hiw are you routing the res though?


Mine is like this:

So unless I miss something here, I won't be able to read-out RPM.

Yeah it isn't exactly the noise the pump makes. My Gentle Typhoons are definitely louder when they run above 1300 ish rpm.
But the case vibration resonates through the room pretty badly. Especially when you walk or sit a few meter away from the case.

What do you mean about the res?
It is an res/top combo.


----------



## Questors

Does anyone know of
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I thought you guys might like my lighted res mod to add a little pop to my S8 and S5 builds . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I am normally not a fan of red, but here it looks great!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The quality of sound dampening really hinges on what you are mounted on,standard case steel,.6-.9mm thick,acts as a soundboard.
Mount the pump to a thick piece of alu then mount that to the case.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The pump has a seperate pin for RPM.
> At 4800RPM, my fans are louder than my pump. Considering they are 1200RPM fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can feel vibrations but simply coz I don't have decoupling paddings on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hiw are you routing the res though?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is like this:
> 
> So unless I miss something here, I won't be able to read-out RPM.
> 
> Yeah it isn't exactly the noise the pump makes. My Gentle Typhoons are definitely louder when they run above 1300 ish rpm.
> But the case vibration resonates through the room pretty badly. Especially when you walk or sit a few meter away from the case.
> 
> What do you mean about the res?
> It is an res/top combo.
Click to expand...

That pump missing tachometric signal wire (3-pin fan connector). So you can't read RPM.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I thought you guys might like my lighted res mod to add a little pop to my S8 and S5 builds . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I am normally not a fan of red, but here it looks great!
Click to expand...

The Farbwerk controller with RGB LED strips, can make pretty much any color, I just set it to R, G, & B to show the ability to change colors at will and not be limited to white, or a single color, like a CCFL would be.

D.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The quality of sound dampening really hinges on what you are mounted on,standard case steel,.6-.9mm thick,acts as a soundboard.
> Mount the pump to a thick piece of alu then mount that to the case.


Fair enough.
And I know. The back panel of a case is most likely the worst location to mount it... I really have no room to place it elsewhere.

The Uni holder is fairly thick though. Too bad I don't have the gear to work with metals, else I would've made a holder from aluminum myself.
Can't you make me one and send it through mail?








Shipping costs will probably hurt like a mother though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That pump missing tachometric signal wire (3-pin fan connector). So you can't read RPM.


Yep, I know. Thats why I mention pump speeds 1-5 versus rpm.


----------



## mus1mus

You can simply search for a guide on how to solder one.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Have one of each but prefer this one (sata)


I was looking at that one too. Was trying to figure out how it hooks up. Does it plug into the sata ports on the mb? Whyou do you like it better than the molex one?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Have one of each but prefer this one (sata)
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at that one too. Was trying to figure out how it hooks up. Does it plug into the sata ports on the mb? Whyou do you like it better than the molex one?
Click to expand...

No,

It plugs into a SATA power connection on the PSU.

SATA can carry more current than the 4 pin Molex, and is usually much more reliable.

Darlene


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No,
> 
> It plugs into a SATA power connection on the PSU.
> 
> SATA can carry more current than the 4 pin Molex, and is usually much more reliable.
> 
> Darlene


Based on connector wiki pages:

SATA = 1.5A x 3 pins per power = 4.5A per rail
Molex = 11A x 1 pin per power = 11A per rail

I feel like SATA's are more reliable because the molex connectors are a PITA sometimes and don't always push in well, but yeah the standards allow much more current on molex.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No,
> 
> It plugs into a SATA power connection on the PSU.
> 
> SATA can carry more current than the 4 pin Molex, and is usually much more reliable.
> 
> Darlene


What do you mean "more reliable"?

Also, guys, do I NEED an anti bacterial agent in my loop? If so, how safe is it to go without one?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I still need to snag another M&F Bitspower QDC set (w/ G1/4 Female threaded), just [email protected] they're not inexpensive lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No,
> 
> It plugs into a SATA power connection on the PSU.
> 
> SATA can carry more current than the 4 pin Molex, and is usually much more reliable.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Based on connector wiki pages:
> 
> SATA = 1.5A x 3 pins per power = 4.5A per rail
> Molex = 11A x 1 pin per power = 11A per rail
> 
> I feel like SATA's are more reliable because the molex connectors are a PITA sometimes and don't always push in well, but yeah the standards allow much more current on molex.
Click to expand...

Interesting, . . .

Would never have thought the Molex was good for 11A.

Thanks for the correction, +1

D.


----------



## MakaThaDon

Well, this is my first post of the new rig, been getting this put together for the last few months and now it's finally up and running. Not quite finished yet, scheduling the acrylic window to be etched and the other side panel to be airbrushed with a design, will update once that's finished









Some fantastic looking rigs on here, here's mine:







Specs:
Corsair 900D Custom Painted Case

Asus Rampage V Extreme (EK R5E Monoblock CPU & Chipset / VRM water block)

Intel Core i7 5930K @ 4.4Ghz

(2 x) AMD 295x2 CPU (Quad Crossfire) (EK 295X2 Full Cover Waterblock + Backplates

16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 3000Mhz (with LightBars)

Superflower Platinum 2000 Watt PSU - 8pack Edition

Creative X-FI Titanium Fatal1ty Pro Edition Soundcard

500Gb Samsung EVO 850 SSD (Boot)

240Gb Crucial M500 SSD (Games)

2 TB WD Caviar Black HDD (Storage)

EK D5 Vario Pump

EK X-Res Reservoir

AlphaCool Nexxxos 480mm UT60 Radiator & 360mm XT45 Radiator (w/ Corsair Performance Fans)

All AlphaCool fittings

Asus MG279Q 27" Freesync IPS Monitor

Corsair M65 Mouse & K70 Keyboard

Maka


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You can simply search for a guide on how to solder one.


Can you quote?
Then we know to whom you are talking.

I take it it is about the fan splitter?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaThaDon*
> 
> Well, this is my first post of the new rig, been getting this put together for the last few months and now it's finally up and running. Not quite finished yet, scheduling the acrylic window to be etched and the other side panel to be airbrushed with a design, will update once that's finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some fantastic looking rigs on here, here's mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Corsair 900D Custom Painted Case
> 
> Asus Rampage V Extreme (EK R5E Monoblock CPU & Chipset / VRM water block)
> 
> Intel Core i7 5930K @ 4.4Ghz
> 
> (2 x) AMD 295x2 CPU (Quad Crossfire) (EK 295X2 Full Cover Waterblock + Backplates
> 
> 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 3000Mhz (with LightBars)
> 
> Superflower Platinum 2000 Watt PSU - 8pack Edition
> 
> Creative X-FI Titanium Fatal1ty Pro Edition Soundcard
> 
> 500Gb Samsung EVO 850 SSD (Boot)
> 
> 240Gb Crucial M500 SSD (Games)
> 
> 2 TB WD Caviar Black HDD (Storage)
> 
> EK D5 Vario Pump
> 
> EK X-Res Reservoir
> 
> AlphaCool Nexxxos 480mm UT60 Radiator & 360mm XT45 Radiator (w/ Corsair Performance Fans)
> 
> All AlphaCool fittings
> 
> Asus MG279Q 27" Freesync IPS Monitor
> 
> Corsair M65 Mouse & K70 Keyboard
> 
> Maka


That is some massive gpu power you have there. I like it.

Why the Corsair fans btw? Most be some hefty noise you have running there. You have loads of rad space so you can get away with some decent semi-silent fans there. IMO

2k psu







.
I bet you are even reaching its limit when overclocking all your hardware.
Out of curiosity, how cold do you keep your cards when they are overclocked?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> What do you mean "more reliable"?
> 
> Also, guys, do I NEED an anti bacterial agent in my loop? If so, how safe is it to go without one?


Need is a subjective term. If you want to all but guarantee no growth, you SHOULD use an anti-microbal. It's really up to you if you want to risk it. I would imagine algae can reduce water flow, lower heat exchange from blocks, and reduce pump life. Could be that nothing grows, or could be that you get swamp water running through your loops.


----------



## MakaThaDon

Well, the sound isn't all that bad as I run my fans at their lowest setting on the controller and I always wear my A50 headphones, so I don't hear it but it certainly could be quieter. It was really about the look with the red LEDs. I'm thinking I'll probably swap them out at some point but they'll do for now. Just measured the dBA and with fans on max, it's coming out at 47 dBA

I'm drawing around 1400 Watts at the moment with CPU @ 4.4Ghz (6 Cores) overclock but looking to push it up towards 5Ghz.
Sitting idle, CPU temperature is maxing at 29 degrees, AIDA64 torture test maxing out at 61 degrees so it's running pretty cool even at full whack.
My GPUs, torture test, again using AIDA64, are topping out at 56 degrees, again, for notoriously hot running cards, staying very cool. I'm pretty happy with cooling performance.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Can you quote?
> Then we know to whom you are talking.


It's for you.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It's for you.


I still don't know where your response was about.









Thought I was talking about a pump holder. Where you said there are guides on how to solder one.


----------



## mus1mus

Tach lead? Didn't ring a bell?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Tach lead? Didn't ring a bell?




















Was just out of bed, lets keep it at that.


----------



## Dave6531

Anyone had issues getting the inner silicone sleeve into bitspower tubing? I have 2 different ones one from bitspower itself and one from the monsoon basic pipe bending kit. Both are extremely tight thought about using silicone lubricant, any problems with this? Hopefully it will work but any other suggestions?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Anyone had issues getting the inner silicone sleeve into bitspower tubing? I have 2 different ones one from bitspower itself and one from the monsoon basic pipe bending kit. Both are extremely tight thought about using silicone lubricant, any problems with this? Hopefully it will work but any other suggestions?


That can happen sometimes because there is variation in the size of both the tubing and inserts. You can get a 3/8 insert and that should fit easier and make bending a little easier


----------



## ali13245

Anyone know how long distilled water ONLY can be ran in a loop? Im asking this because I might need to run DI only until pastel extreme colored variants are released.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Anyone had issues getting the inner silicone sleeve into bitspower tubing? I have 2 different ones one from bitspower itself and one from the monsoon basic pipe bending kit. Both are extremely tight thought about using silicone lubricant, any problems with this? Hopefully it will work but any other suggestions?


I have similar problems with my primochill silicon tube being too tight. Even when I lubricate it, it is still a tight fit, but in the end it goes through the tube.


----------



## Hambone07si

What's up everyone? How's everyone been? I haven't been on in a few months due to a job change and being very busy. Anyways, I'm getting back to having some free time and I'm looking to do a change to my pc.

Hardware wise it's going to stay the same for now with the 4790K @ 5ghz 1.350v and Gtx Titan X @ 1450mhz / 7600mhz ..

Many have seen the build log I did with the Core X9 HUGE case. I do like the case in all, but it's also bugging me in a way







. I'm wanting to redo my system into a different case and make it look very nice. I'm not sure exactly what case I want to get yet, but I do like the Case Labs cases and all the builds I've seen in them. I had a 800D in the past and that was kinda close to the size I would want again. I'm asking you guys what you recommend case wise and if you have reasons why, please share as well.

Cases I'm considering so far.

Case Labs: SM8 Merlin , SM8 Magnum, MAGNUM STH10, MAGNUM TH10A, MAGNUM TX10.. Possibly Corsair 900D but would rather stick with Case Labs and their quality.

I'm done with the cube style cases as I have the X9 witch is more Cube than I'll ever need LOL. So far I think my top choice is the SM8 Merlin with a 480mm top rad and a 360mm front rad.

Also, star wars battlefront, who's jumping on that one? If you are, let's become friends on Origin so we can battle it out as teammates or foe lol. Can't wait for this title to drop Nov 17th!!


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That can happen sometimes because there is variation in the size of both the tubing and inserts. You can get a 3/8 insert and that should fit easier and make bending a little easier


Just funny bitspowers own doesn't fit their own I'll try some lube if that doesnt work i'll have to go see if I can find an insert tube length or something along those lines.


----------



## Jakusonfire

It doesn't matter the brand, they just don't have that much control over the diameters because of the way they are made. Extruding will always have variation.

You can have branded tubing not fit into the fittings for it.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It doesn't matter the brand, they just don't have that much control over the diameters because of the way they are made. Extruding will always have variation.
> 
> You can have branded tubing not fit into the fittings for it.


true just a pain hopefully lube works and dont have to hunt down something else to use.


----------



## emsj86

I use water with dish soap works very well. Than I use a gallon of distilled to usb through the tubes before installing


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Anyone know how long distilled water ONLY can be ran in a loop? Im asking this because I might need to run DI only until pastel extreme colored variants are released.


Do you mean plain distilled? As in, without any additives?

It can theoretically be run as long as you want. I don't think there is a rule on when your blocks will get clogged or something. It is just advised to use an inhibitor that stops microorganisms from growing in the loop.
If you can, run some UV light in the case to prevent algae grow a bit.

But why don't add some stuff and just drain when your desired coolant comes out?


----------



## snef

GO HABS GO! update:

now with cables and GPU

i dont know why all AMD ITX board have this weird layout but need to run 24 pins cable under the case, the space on Parvum case is just perfect
next thing is leak test, just wait on 3 or 4 angle fittings and this build will be closed to the end


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lookin good







too bad it's not a Penguins theme lol


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> What's up everyone? How's everyone been? I haven't been on in a few months due to a job change and being very busy. Anyways, I'm getting back to having some free time and I'm looking to do a change to my pc.
> 
> Hardware wise it's going to stay the same for now with the 4790K @ 5ghz 1.350v and Gtx Titan X @ 1450mhz / 7600mhz ..
> 
> Many have seen the build log I did with the Core X9 HUGE case. I do like the case in all, but it's also bugging me in a way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm wanting to redo my system into a different case and make it look very nice. I'm not sure exactly what case I want to get yet, but I do like the Case Labs cases and all the builds I've seen in them. I had a 800D in the past and that was kinda close to the size I would want again. I'm asking you guys what you recommend case wise and if you have reasons why, please share as well.
> 
> Cases I'm considering so far.
> 
> Case Labs: SM8 Merlin , SM8 Magnum, MAGNUM STH10, MAGNUM TH10A, MAGNUM TX10.. Possibly Corsair 900D but would rather stick with Case Labs and their quality.
> 
> I'm done with the cube style cases as I have the X9 witch is more Cube than I'll ever need LOL. So far I think my top choice is the SM8 Merlin with a 480mm top rad and a 360mm front rad.
> 
> Also, star wars battlefront, who's jumping on that one? If you are, let's become friends on Origin so we can battle it out as teammates or foe lol. Can't wait for this title to drop Nov 17th!!


Hey man!

So the cases you chose are super big and super expensive, but they are CaseLabs so whatever. It seems like with the components you have, you could theoretically go with a Caselabs S3- single GPU setup.

Why the need for the massive cases? You don't need all that rad space, especially for a single GPU and a single CPU. I get the need for watercooling, but you could fit two 240s in an s3 and one more in the HDD bay (I think?).

The s3 may be a bit cubey, so if you don't like that try the nova series. I just think that the case will look a bit empty with a single GPU. Filling all the rad space in the case will fill it up a bit, but it's pointless with the single GPU/CPU config.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Hey man!
> 
> So the cases you chose are super big and super expensive, but they are CaseLabs so whatever. It seems like with the components you have, you could theoretically go with a Caselabs S3- single GPU setup.
> 
> Why the need for the massive cases? You don't need all that rad space, especially for a single GPU and a single CPU. I get the need for watercooling, but you could fit two 240s in an s3 and one more in the HDD bay (I think?).


I think the max rad space on the S3 would be 2 x 240mm, Or mod the Top to possibly Fit a 360mm Rad.

TCO

In the Rear 120mm Fan Slot you could fit a 120mm Rad there, but... eh... Not sure I would do that.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lookin good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> too bad it's not a Penguins theme lol


100% this


----------



## emsj86

Penguin fans........ Orange and black


----------



## pc-illiterate

black and gold. all pittsburgh teams are black n gold.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Penguin fans........ Orange and black


Orange & Black (w/ white as well) is Philadelphia Flyers


----------



## snef

Hahaha

Sorry guys, the kid love Montreal


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lookin good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> too bad it's not a Penguins theme lol


It couldn't get that ugly!!!

GO WINGS!!!


----------



## caraboose

Just managed to finish rebuilding my loop, with a 480mm on top, and a 240 on the bottom.


----------



## alltheGHz

The black tubing totally matches, looks great! There seems to be a bit of empty space to the right, do you plan on filling that with a res or some other stuff?


----------



## caraboose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> The black tubing totally matches, looks great! There seems to be a bit of empty space to the right, do you plan on filling that with a res or some other stuff?


I couldn't find anything that would fit there.. so I guess not. a 360mm rad would be too long by about 0.5". Oh well, it's covered by the fan plate anyways.


----------



## derickwm

EKWB crate


----------



## alltheGHz

LOL nice! Did they send that you you, or is that just a crate with a bunch of ek parts?


----------



## derickwm

I wish they had. I actually just put this together to ship out my Lian Li build to Intel.


----------



## alltheGHz

Yes, very nice job on that by the way! I think the sleeving on the tubing is interesting, last place I would think to put my sleeving. It almost looks like super thick 500awg wire going to the components.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> EKWB crate


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Yes, very nice job on that by the way! I think the sleeving on the tubing is interesting, last place I would think to put my sleeving. It almost looks like super thick 500awg wire going to the components.


You know the higher the gauge the thinner the wire is, right?
500 awg would be like sub particle thickness. 50 gauge is already 0.00100" (or 0.025mm)









*About those caselabs*. I've never seen one in person.

Do you guys think they are really worth it? They are rather expensive after all.
For example, the S8 is comparable to the Thermaltake x9 (in size) but at least twice as expensive.

Agreed the possibility to order the way you want it is a big premium and it is all aluminum(?)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Yes, very nice job on that by the way! I think the sleeving on the tubing is interesting, last place I would think to put my sleeving. It almost looks like super thick 500awg wire going to the components.
> 
> 
> 
> You know the higher the gauge the thinner the wire is, right?
> 500 awg would be like sub particle thickness. 50 gauge is already 0.00100" (or 0.025mm)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *About those caselabs*. I've never seen one in person.
> 
> Do you guys think they are really worth it? They are rather expensive after all.
> For example, the S8 is comparable to the Thermaltake x9 (in size) but at least twice as expensive.
> 
> Agreed the possibility to order the way you want it is a big premium and it is all aluminum(?)
Click to expand...

As someone with multiple Caselabs cases, and an S8 that should be here soon, . . . . as well as the Tt Core X9,

I can tell you that there is NO Comparison . . . . Either in size or quality . . .

The S8 is almost 6 inches shorter, front to back, than the X9.

The S8 can accommodate 360 length rads, while the X9 accommodates 480's.

Width and height are otherwise about the same, within a half inch or so.

If you need 480 length, you have to go with the Tt.

If you can do with 360's and then optionally, add a pedestal for more 360's, then the S8 is clearly a quantum leap up the quality scale.

When it comes to overall quality, both of materials (all heavy cage aluminum) and build, and then fit and finish, the Caselabs cases are in a league of their own, and literally orders of magnitude above the Tt.

If you ask in the Caselabs club, virtually no one has regretted their purchase, or complained that the quality didn't match the high regard that other owners hold them in, or that they were overpriced for what they got.

D


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As someone with multiple Caselabs cases, and an S8 that should be here soon, . . . . as well as the Tt Core X9,
> 
> I can tell you that there is NO Comparison . . . . Either in size or quality . . .
> 
> The S8 is almost 6 inches shorter, front to back, than the X9.
> 
> The S8 can accommodate 360 length rads, while the X9 accommodates 480's.
> 
> Width and height are otherwise about the same, within a half inch or so.
> 
> If you need 480 length, you have to go with the Tt.
> 
> If you can do with 360's and then optionally, add a pedestal for more 360's, then the S8 is clearly a quantum leap up the quality scale.
> 
> When it comes to overall quality, both of materials (all heavy cage aluminum) and build, and then fit and finish, the Caselabs cases are in a league of their own, and literally orders of magnitude above the Tt.
> 
> If you ask in the Caselabs club, virtually no one has regretted their purchase, or complained that the quality didn't match the high regard that other owners hold them in, or that they were overpriced for what they got.
> 
> D


Alright, thanks for the extended reply.

I guess I should take your word for it. After all, you are one of the experienced here. Not to brag.
And I can expect it to be worth every penny, after all decent things are expensive. They do look solid. But one really has to experience it at first hand I guess.

I'm not up to buying one soon. Although the configurator on the site is a bit confusing to me.
The lower compartment for example. There can be a radiator mounted there, right? But then the hdd cage(s) needs to be removed. And the other side is where you place the psu and pump(?).
About the 480 vs 360. I guess two 360's in the top will be enough for most loops. Can add a 3rd in the front if needed.

The material itself will be a big step of compared to most cases I guess.
Take my Corsair 650D for example. I really liked the case when I first got it. Coming from a Cooler Master CM690. But now I find the plates to be thin and the case to be somewhat unstable all together. It's also very noisy with vibrations.

Next build will most likely be in a nice CaseLabs.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As someone with multiple Caselabs cases, and an S8 that should be here soon, . . . . as well as the Tt Core X9,
> 
> I can tell you that there is NO Comparison . . . . Either in size or quality . . .
> 
> The S8 is almost 6 inches shorter, front to back, than the X9.
> 
> The S8 can accommodate 360 length rads, while the X9 accommodates 480's.
> 
> Width and height are otherwise about the same, within a half inch or so.
> 
> If you need 480 length, you have to go with the Tt.
> 
> If you can do with 360's and then optionally, add a pedestal for more 360's, then the S8 is clearly a quantum leap up the quality scale.
> 
> When it comes to overall quality, both of materials (all heavy cage aluminum) and build, and then fit and finish, the Caselabs cases are in a league of their own, and literally orders of magnitude above the Tt.
> 
> If you ask in the Caselabs club, virtually no one has regretted their purchase, or complained that the quality didn't match the high regard that other owners hold them in, or that they were overpriced for what they got.
> 
> D
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, thanks for the extended reply.
> 
> I guess I should take your word for it. After all, you are one of the experienced here. Not to brag.
> And I can expect it to be worth every penny, after all decent things are expensive. They do look solid. But one really has to experience it at first hand I guess.
> 
> I'm not up to buying one soon. Although the configurator on the site is a bit confusing to me.
> The lower compartment for example. There can be a radiator mounted there, right? But then the hdd cage(s) needs to be removed. And the other side is where you place the psu and pump(?).
> About the 480 vs 360. I guess two 360's in the top will be enough for most loops. Can add a 3rd in the front if needed.
> 
> The material itself will be a big step of compared to most cases I guess.
> Take my Corsair 650D for example. I really liked the case when I first got it. Coming from a Cooler Master CM690. But now I find the plates to be thin and the case to be somewhat unstable all together. It's also very noisy with vibrations.
> 
> Next build will most likely be in a nice CaseLabs.
Click to expand...

The helpful team in the Caselabs thread will happily give you all the info you want and help you get your order right the first time around.

D.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The helpful team in the Caselabs thread will happily give you all the info you want and help you get your order right the first time around.
> 
> D.


Fair enough.

And I could expect it to be somewhat hard to supply buyers with optimal info.
There is just so many things one can change on order.









But now I must stop looking at these cases before I get tempted too much. Really can't afford something right now.
Looking for work for 2 months now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

There are only 2 case makers that would get my money,if I actually paid for cases anymore,Caselabs and In Win.
Nothing else measures up.....and im demanding in my requirements.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are only 2 case makers that would get my money,if I actually paid for cases anymore,Caselabs and In Win.
> Nothing else measures up.....*and im demanding in my requirements.*


Oh we know


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are only 2 case makers that would get my money,if I actually paid for cases anymore,Caselabs and In Win.
> Nothing else measures up.....and im demanding in my requirements.


After getting a CaseLabs for myself I can see why you'd buy their cases (if you were to shell out for one). In other news might be getting a Pi Top to play with (Turns out a long time friend I grew up with was behind its coming to be: http://www.businessbecause.com/news/mba-uk/3576/hult-mba-pioneers-3d-printed-laptop). Want to bounce the idea of a desktop case for it as well since Rasberry Pi 2 has numerous capabilities.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are only 2 case makers that would get my money,if I actually paid for cases anymore,Caselabs and In Win.
> Nothing else measures up.....and im demanding in my requirements.


It's true, be even imports his tea. :b


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Fair enough.
> 
> And I could expect it to be somewhat hard to supply buyers with optimal info.
> There is just so many things one can change on order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I must stop looking at these cases before I get tempted too much. Really can't afford something right now.
> Looking for work for 2 months now.


Dude, I used to be in the same boat as you, I was about to get the 750d or the S5, and even though yes it was expensive and yes it's gonna take 2 months to get, it was TOTALLY worth it. It has so many features and amazing things to offer, there really, really isn't any comparison.

I like my s5 because it's super easy to access the hardware and mod stuff because of the horizontal motherboard layout, but also because of the construction and the ability to break a part modding or cutting and be able to re order it in the exact config you want it.

Here's my s5 build log, the most recent photos really show the craftsmanship of the CL cases. http://www.overclock.net/t/1563377/build-log-caselabs-s5-5820k-gtx

They have a bunch of other cases, too. Imo the others aren't very space efficient unless you are watercooling, but I'm assuming that's what you wanna do.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are only 2 case makers that would get my money,if I actually paid for cases anymore,Caselabs and In Win.
> 
> Nothing else measures up.....*and im demanding in my requirements.*
> 
> 
> 
> Oh we know
Click to expand...

And you love it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are only 2 case makers that would get my money,if I actually paid for cases anymore,Caselabs and In Win.
> Nothing else measures up.....and im demanding in my requirements.
> 
> 
> 
> After getting a CaseLabs for myself I can see why you'd buy their cases (if you were to shell out for one). In other news might be getting a Pi Top to play with (Turns out a long time friend I grew up with was behind its coming to be: http://www.businessbecause.com/news/mba-uk/3576/hult-mba-pioneers-3d-printed-laptop). Want to bounce the idea of a desktop case for it as well since Rasberry Pi 2 has numerous capabilities.
Click to expand...

I already have one,bought with cashmonies too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are only 2 case makers that would get my money,if I actually paid for cases anymore,Caselabs and In Win.
> Nothing else measures up.....and im demanding in my requirements.
> 
> 
> 
> It's true, be even imports his tea. :b
Click to expand...

It has been known. If you want the best then you have to pay for it,I have been lucky in being in a position where I get offers for cases all the time,I turn down them all. I wont settle for anything crap...especially knock off/cheap steel nasty/thermaltake. I even blew out Tt's invitational mod off because of the stuff they produce,could of made off with a shiny new build for free too.......however,I dont support unethical companies. In Win and Caselabs are my only choices.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> It's true, be even imports his tea. :b


LaL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Dude, I used to be in the same boat as you, I was about to get the 750d or the S5, and even though yes it was expensive and yes it's gonna take 2 months to get, it was TOTALLY worth it. It has so many features and amazing things to offer, there really, really isn't any comparison.
> 
> I like my s5 because it's super easy to access the hardware and mod stuff because of the horizontal motherboard layout, but also because of the construction and the ability to break a part modding or cutting and be able to re order it in the exact config you want it.
> 
> Here's my s5 build log, the most recent photos really show the craftsmanship of the CL cases. http://www.overclock.net/t/1563377/build-log-caselabs-s5-5820k-gtx
> 
> They have a bunch of other cases, too. Imo the others aren't very space efficient unless you are watercooling, but I'm assuming that's what you wanna do.


Stop it. Ha ha.

I don't want to get lured into buying something now.
The more I watch pictures of these cases, the more I need it.

* subbed though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And you love it.
> I already have one,bought with cashmonies too.
> It has been known. If you want the best then you have to pay for it,I have been lucky in being in a position where I get offers for cases all the time,I turn down them all. I wont settle for anything crap...especially knock off/cheap steel nasty/thermaltake. I even blew out Tt's invitational mod off because of the stuff they produce,could of made off with a shiny new build for free too.......however,I dont support unethical companies. In Win and Caselabs are my only choices.


I like your attitude.

Sadly not all of us (probably most) can not afford that way of thinking. Sure, I also want the best. And I do get the best for my budget (always).
But it's like saying: I don't want to deal with cheaply made cars, I only drive Bugatti. Ain't gonna happen for me.

But....
My next case will be a Caselabs, no matter what.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It has been known. If you want the best then you have to pay for it,I have been lucky in being in a position where I get offers for cases all the time,I turn down them all. I wont settle for anything crap...especially knock off/cheap steel nasty/thermaltake. I even blew out Tt's invitational mod off because of the stuff they produce,could of made off with a shiny new build for free too.......however,I dont support unethical companies. In Win and Caselabs are my only choices.


What about Parvum? I love my little extended S2.0


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> It's true, be even imports his tea. :b
> 
> 
> 
> LaL
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Dude, I used to be in the same boat as you, I was about to get the 750d or the S5, and even though yes it was expensive and yes it's gonna take 2 months to get, it was TOTALLY worth it. It has so many features and amazing things to offer, there really, really isn't any comparison.
> 
> I like my s5 because it's super easy to access the hardware and mod stuff because of the horizontal motherboard layout, but also because of the construction and the ability to break a part modding or cutting and be able to re order it in the exact config you want it.
> 
> Here's my s5 build log, the most recent photos really show the craftsmanship of the CL cases. http://www.overclock.net/t/1563377/build-log-caselabs-s5-5820k-gtx
> 
> They have a bunch of other cases, too. Imo the others aren't very space efficient unless you are watercooling, but I'm assuming that's what you wanna do.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stop it. Ha ha.
> 
> I don't want to get lured into buying something now.
> The more I watch pictures of these cases, the more I need it.
> 
> * subbed though.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And you love it.
> I already have one,bought with cashmonies too.
> It has been known. If you want the best then you have to pay for it,I have been lucky in being in a position where I get offers for cases all the time,I turn down them all. I wont settle for anything crap...especially knock off/cheap steel nasty/thermaltake. I even blew out Tt's invitational mod off because of the stuff they produce,could of made off with a shiny new build for free too.......however,I dont support unethical companies. In Win and Caselabs are my only choices.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I like your attitude.
> 
> Sadly not all of us (probably most) can not afford that way of thinking. Sure, I also want the best. And I do get the best for my budget (always).
> But it's like saying: *I don't want to deal with cheaply made cars, I only drive Bugatti.* Ain't gonna happen for me.
> 
> But....
> My next case will be a Caselabs, no matter what.
Click to expand...

You have to be realistic in budgeting,I get that,but these cases are only a $100 or so over the normal stuff and will last significantly longer. I know the CL stuff can mount up quick but you dont need all the garnish,the stock cases are well equipped from the start.

I think everyone should buy D Frame Mini's personally.....

If it makes you feel better,I did my own fair share of 'Ramen Budgeting',I even gave up smoking while I was building my SR2 rig....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It has been known. If you want the best then you have to pay for it,I have been lucky in being in a position where I get offers for cases all the time,I turn down them all. I wont settle for anything crap...especially knock off/cheap steel nasty/thermaltake. I even blew out Tt's invitational mod off because of the stuff they produce,could of made off with a shiny new build for free too.......however,I dont support unethical companies. In Win and Caselabs are my only choices.
> 
> 
> 
> What about Parvum? I love my little extended S2.0
Click to expand...

Im closely linked to the PARVUM guys and I will be doing something for them soon,however......everybody and their dog is doing one,I will wait till the hype has died down before giving one the once over. Wont be a stock case in their range either.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think everyone should buy D Frame Mini's personally.....


I really want one for a HTPC Build, but they are a little bit of t too much for me. Too bad. I want a beastly HTPC for my new projector setup but I can't afford one.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have to be realistic in budgeting,I get that,but these cases are only a $100 or so over the normal stuff and will last significantly longer. I know the CL stuff can mount up quick but you dont need all the garnish,the stock cases are well equipped from the start.
> 
> I think everyone should buy D Frame Mini's personally.....
> 
> If it makes you feel better,I did my own fair share of 'Ramen Budgeting',I even gave up smoking while I was building my SR2 rig....
> Im closely linked to the PARVUM guys and I will be doing something for them soon,however......everybody and their dog is doing one,I will wait till the hype has died down before giving one the once over. Wont be a stock case in their range either.


Good point.
Like most things, cheap will be expensive in the long run. So I get what you mean. Why not spend a little more on something so you can use it longer while getting a lot more pleasure from it.

True, the stock layout looks to be okay. But I know me, I won't be getting that if I do get one of the Caselabs cases.








What I do like very much is that when you later decide to change something you can always buy another design panel and use that. I haven't payed attention a long time though, can we expect a particular case to be supported (sold) a decent time? Or do EOL quick?

I lolled a bit on the budgetting comment. But I can expect it when talking about an SR-2 build. That bad boy must have been way expensive.
What about you by the way? Do you also have people near you (family etc) why think you are crazy for being so enthusiastic? Get what I mean?

I can't help it though. It is in my nature and has only been growing ever since I joined the forum here.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've noticed w/ my M8 I really didn't need the pedestal just the extended top, but again I'm a firm believer in Stock Sucks (automotive performance frame of mind, lol)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have to be realistic in budgeting,I get that,but these cases are only a $100 or so over the normal stuff and will last significantly longer. I know the CL stuff can mount up quick but you dont need all the garnish,the stock cases are well equipped from the start.
> 
> I think everyone should buy D Frame Mini's personally.....
> 
> If it makes you feel better,I did my own fair share of 'Ramen Budgeting',I even gave up smoking while I was building my SR2 rig....
> Im closely linked to the PARVUM guys and I will be doing something for them soon,however......everybody and their dog is doing one,I will wait till the hype has died down before giving one the once over. Wont be a stock case in their range either.
> 
> 
> 
> Good point.
> Like most things, cheap will be expensive in the long run. So I get what you mean. Why not spend a little more on something so you can use it longer while getting a lot more pleasure from it.
> 
> True, the stock layout looks to be okay. But I know me, I won't be getting that if I do get one of the Caselabs cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do like very much is that when you later decide to change something you can always buy another design panel and use that. I haven't payed attention a long time though, can we expect a particular case to be supported (sold) a decent time? Or do EOL quick?
> 
> I lolled a bit on the budgetting comment. But I can expect it when talking about an SR-2 build. That bad boy must have been way expensive.
> *What about you by the way? Do you also have people near you (family etc) why think you are crazy for being so enthusiastic? Get what I mean?*
> 
> I can't help it though. It is in my nature and has only been growing ever since I joined the forum here.
Click to expand...

Im a bit weird anyway and have had my face rooted in various computers since 1983 so it was no great shock. The shock comes with the amount of people that want to see what I do.....
No Interventions yet tho,if thats what you mean...we dont have those in the UK.
Personally I get more joy from a case that has had some love put in to it but is a bit crap compared to a case that has had sacks of cash thrown at it but is vanilla in every sense of the word.

My SR2 was a beast......



Sadly I sold it a few months back,kinda wish I hadnt.......I never did really do anything with that build mod wise and I feel I wasted an opportunity. I look at it and I am disappointed....

As for CL,the cases do stay around,the slow movers as far as i can remember only got axed in favour of better leadtimes for purchasers. They became a victim of their own success and couldnt maintain reasonable dispatches because of tooling changes,they slimmed down to get more volume.
They did the right thing.

If you are _really_ in need of a panel,I doubt they would say no outright.


----------



## willemdoom

You sold the whole thing???


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> You sold the whole thing???


In parts.

Sad times.

Much Regret.


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In parts.
> 
> Sad times.
> 
> Much Regret.


I touch't you hinted at upgrading it a will back, what changed?

EDIT: by the way, what are you using as your daily driver then?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In parts.
> 
> Sad times.
> 
> Much Regret.
> 
> 
> 
> I touch't you hinted at upgrading it a will back, what changed?
> 
> EDIT: by the way, what are you using as your daily driver then?
Click to expand...

LUMO. Its too cool to leave in a box between LANs.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> True, the stock layout looks to be okay. But I know me, I won't be getting that if I do get one of the Caselabs cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I do like very much is that when you later decide to change something you can always buy another design panel and use that. I haven't payed attention a long time though, can we expect a particular case to be supported (sold) a decent time? Or do EOL quick?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As for CL,the cases do stay around,the slow movers as far as i can remember only got axed in favour of better leadtimes for purchasers. They became a victim of their own success and couldnt maintain reasonable dispatches because of tooling changes,they slimmed down to get more volume.
> They did the right thing.
> 
> If you are _really_ in need of a panel,I doubt they would say no outright.


The Merlin ST10 has seen its end of production. When I contacted CaseLabs about spare parts, their response was panels will be around for undetermined time frame, but for awhile. I recently bought a new divider panel as the old one was so full of holes it looked a block of swiss cheese after a wild west gun fight. No problem at all. The upside of CaseLabs for me is, if the SM8 is still in production several years from now and I am in serious need of parts, I can always convert the ST10 to the SM8 using a few chassis parts. They use the same pedestal, top cover, bottom panel, top panel and many other parts. Parts sharing is one of the many things about CaseLabs that give you what you pay for. It's the tangible aspect of CaseLabs ownership that no-one ever mentions. Something else not widely mentioned, the SM8 & ST10 pedestal can be turned upside down and integrated into the top of the chassis for a built-in radbox at the top of the case. A pedestal at the top and at the bottom brings a ton of possibilities. A bit of work and a case of mild insanity, one can always mod a drop-in 480 mount atop the now integrated pedestal and use the 120mm optional top cover for a towering monolith housing radiator numbers of myth and legend.









Oh yeah and what B NEGATIVE said - CaseLabs had to trim back to focus on getting product to customers while they were still alive to use it. So they "EOLed" a few models to support that and a better customer service/customer experience overall. Based on what I have seen in the last few years, CaseLabs doesn't EOL cases on a regular cycle since they have a unique product/market. No matter how much Thermalsteal rips off cheap imitations, they still won't take the market from CaseLabs since they can't possibly compare in quality further strengthening their market space. That's my take on it at any rate.

I am spoiled rotten by CaseLabs. I have a Fractal Define S for my wife's computer and another CoolerMaster for my grad school (proud Dad moment) daughter. I like to not like either of them. They are flimsy, yet heavy for their under-constructed tin-foil frames and plastic bodies. I can sit on, lie down on, lean on, kick, push, even live in my ST10 in a pinch. Some people buy a boat and truck to tow it with. I bought a CaseLabs chassis and a truck to haul it with.














LAN PARTY!


----------



## Questors

All this CaseLabs talk and build log stuff has me all keyed up. I was brainstorming (yeah - it hurt) set ups for my current build and did a rough draw-up. Using two D5 pumps in series will be more than enough to keep flow going. However, if anyone sees anything obvious I missed, by all means, speak up. The idea is use two pedestal stacked under the ST10 main chassis to house two SR2's and two XTX480 - keep the weight low to the floor.


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im a bit weird anyway and have had my face rooted in various computers since 1983 so it was no great shock. The shock comes with the amount of people that want to see what I do.....
> No Interventions yet tho,if thats what you mean...we dont have those in the UK.
> Personally I get more joy from a case that has had some love put in to it but is a bit crap compared to a case that has had sacks of cash thrown at it but is vanilla in every sense of the word.
> 
> My SR2 was a beast......
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly I sold it a few months back,kinda wish I hadnt.......I never did really do anything with that build mod wise and I feel I wasted an opportunity. I look at it and I am disappointed....
> 
> As for CL,the cases do stay around,the slow movers as far as i can remember only got axed in favour of better leadtimes for purchasers. They became a victim of their own success and couldnt maintain reasonable dispatches because of tooling changes,they slimmed down to get more volume.
> They did the right thing.
> 
> If you are _really_ in need of a panel,I doubt they would say no outright.


Well what is your view on the hex gear case? Did you enjoy working with it? I have a parvum case coming but im like you. I think im going to hold off until later to build it.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im a bit weird anyway and have had my face *rooted in various computers since 1983* so it was no great shock. The shock comes with the amount of people that want to see what I do.....
> No Interventions yet tho,if thats what you mean...we dont have those in the UK.
> Personally I get more joy from a case that has had some love put in to it but is a bit crap compared to a case that has had sacks of cash thrown at it but is vanilla in every sense of the word.
> 
> My SR2 was a beast......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly I sold it a few months back,kinda wish I hadnt.......I never did really do anything with that build mod wise and I feel I wasted an opportunity. I look at it and I am disappointed....
> 
> As for CL,the cases do stay around,the slow movers as far as i can remember only got axed in favour of better leadtimes for purchasers. They became a victim of their own success and couldnt maintain reasonable dispatches because of tooling changes,*they slimmed down to get more volume*.
> They did the right thing.
> 
> If you are _really_ in need of a panel,I doubt they would say no outright.


I somehow expect most people here to be rather young... don't know why.
Sadly I haven't experienced computer older then early 1990's. I am from '88









From Holland here. We also don't have inventions sadly.

Now I remember the build. By all means, I love that build. Doesn't have to we extreme expensive to be nice. The love, like you said, makes it.
Can understand why you part with it... though I would probably rather put it in glass to look at it when I wouldn't use it.









Agreed. If that was the motive, they did the right thing.
I hope they can stay alive for a long time to come. I love companies that actually still deliver quality products which they love rather then just sell as much crap for as much money as possible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> LUMO. Its too cool to leave in a box between LANs.


Can't remember that build. Is it air cooled?
Love these little LAN boxes. What does it weight, aprox?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> The Merlin ST10 has seen its end of production. When I contacted CaseLabs about spare parts, their response was panels will be around for undetermined time frame, but for awhile. I recently bought a new divider panel as the old one was so full of holes it looked a block of swiss cheese after a wild west gun fight. No problem at all. The upside of CaseLabs for me is, if the SM8 is still in production several years from now and I am in serious need of parts, I can always convert the ST10 to the SM8 using a few chassis parts. They use the same pedestal, top cover, bottom panel, top panel and many other parts. Parts sharing is one of the many things about CaseLabs that give you what you pay for. It's the tangible aspect of CaseLabs ownership that no-one ever mentions. Something else not widely mentioned, the SM8 & ST10 pedestal can be turned upside down and integrated into the top of the chassis for a built-in radbox at the top of the case. A pedestal at the top and at the bottom brings a ton of possibilities. A bit of work and a case of mild insanity, one can always mod a drop-in 480 mount atop the now integrated pedestal and use the 120mm optional top cover for a towering monolith housing radiator numbers of myth and legend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah and what B NEGATIVE said - CaseLabs had to trim back to focus on *getting product to customers while they were still alive to use it*. So they "EOLed" a few models to support that and a better customer service/customer experience overall. Based on what I have seen in the last few years, CaseLabs doesn't EOL cases on a regular cycle since they have a unique product/market. No matter how much Thermalsteal rips off cheap imitations, they still won't take the market from CaseLabs since they can't possible compare in quality further strengthening their market space. That's my take on it at any rate.
> 
> I am spoiled rotted by CaseLabs. I have a Fractal Define S for my wife's computer and another CoolerMaster for my grad school (proud Dad moment) daughter. I like to not like either of them. They are flimsy, yet heavy for their under-constructed tin-foil frames and plastic bodies. I can sit on, lie down on, lean on, kick, push, even live in my ST10 in a pinch. Some people buy a boat and truck to tow it with. I bought a CaseLabs chassis and a truck to haul it with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LAN PARTY!


I love your writing style. There is humor in it.









I can't recall the ST10. Is it comparable (in size) to the TX10? Like a case you can lean on when you stand next to it.









"getting product to customers while they were still alive to use it". Genius comment. Ha ha
Was it so bad with the waiting times? Guess we get spoiled by the 1-2 day delivery of 90% of the computer related stuff.
I wouldn't complain though to wait for something I actually will enjoy for a long time.

Sounds very nice indeed. Having the ability to interchange various parts between various model cases. Why doesn't every company do that? IMO it's the only real way.
I feel you on the quality of the average case. Sure, I like the look of the Fractal cases compared to the cheap Cooler Master or Asus cases. But they just feel flimsy. Together with my 650D, the quality isn't low by all means... but it could be a lot better.

That LAN party quote. Lol
I can imagine you hauling in that big ass case with other people lifting in their plastic Lanboy case.









How do you convince the lady btw? Or are you a single parent?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> All this CaseLabs talk and build log stuff has me all keyed up. I was brainstorming (yeah - it hurt) set ups for my current build and did a rough draw-up. Using two D5 pumps in series will be more than enough to keep flow going. However, if anyone sees anything obvious I missed, by all means, speak up. The idea is use two pedestal stacked under the ST10 main chassis to house two SR2's and two XTX480 - keep the weight low to the floor.


Dude. That thing must be huge..
Dual SR2 360's AND two XTX480's. Oh man.

Single loop? Why not.
The order looks nice though, IMO.


----------



## Questors

This space left intentionally blank. No freaking idea why...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I somehow expect most people here to be rather young... don't know why.
> Sadly I haven't experienced computer older then early 1990's. I am from '88


I started on an Atari 1200 XL back in 1982, wish I still had it. The Atari and Apple IIc (in school). I am rather... uh... not young? Yeah, that's it!







I do upgrade fairly often in one way or another and still learn something new here. Learning let's me know I am not dead yet!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I love your writing style. There is humor in it.


Thank you. Sometimes I get taken incorrectly and someone gets their knickers in a twist.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I can't recall the ST10. Is it comparable (in size) to the TX10? Like a case you can lean on when you stand next to it.


The ST10 is a taller version of the SM8 with ten expansion slots for the motherboard. A person can fit two 480's and a 360 in P/P inside the case and still be able to fit everything else necessary; not to mention some pantry overflow. My wife calls it a refrigerator - because it should be one!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> "getting product to customers while they were still alive to use it". Genius comment. Ha ha
> Was it so bad with the waiting times? Guess we get spoiled by the 1-2 day delivery of 90% of the computer related stuff.
> I wouldn't complain though to wait for something I actually will enjoy for a long time.
> 
> Sounds very nice indeed. Having the ability to interchange various parts between various model cases. Why doesn't every company do that? IMO it's the only real way.
> I feel you on the quality of the average case. Sure, I like the look of the Fractal cases compared to the cheap Cooler Master or Asus cases. But they just feel flimsy. Together with my 650D, the quality isn't low by all means... but it could be a lot better.


Wait times were bad for awhile that I know of, the word from the owner of CaseLabs. We do get spoiled by instant everything and I completely agree with not complaining about waiting for such a product worth that wait.
*Disclaimer* - See Comment - "I am spoiled rotten by CaseLabs." Yeah, for the price-point the cases I mentioned are not horrible. It is hard to eat wax fruit once you have eaten the real thing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That LAN party quote. Lol
> I can imagine you hauling in that big ass case with other people lifting in their plastic Lanboy case.


My Ford F150 has a full towing package, spray-in bedliner, 365 horsepower and 425 ft/lbs of torque! I made sure I can get to LAN Parties fast and without damaging my truck or the ST10! The only thing I haven't worked out yet is where to mount a generator to power it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> How do you convince the lady btw? Or are you a single parent?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude. That thing must be huge..
> Dual SR2 360's AND two XTX480's. Oh man.


My wife is great. she lets me have the computer hobby... as long as I don't bankrupt us.







The ST10 with all the extras is pretty darned big. Like a TX10, but thinner. As far as radiators go, I actually have another XTX 360 and XTX 480. I am fighting the urge to include them.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Single loop? Why not.
> The order looks nice though, IMO.


Yep, I sold two D5 pumps with EK tops, dress-up kits and reservoirs... after I sold them, I was like







"I need those!" Oh well... caught a sell-out on the dual pump/top assembly when EK placed them on EOL. Make a mistake by selling the first two only to blunder into an even better deal with the dual setup. That is the primary reason I am going single loop. It's enough pump to keep the bilges dry on an aircraft carrier, so why the heck not?
Thank you for the commentary about the order. When I start a build, I already have my mind set on one or two possibilities, but I like to see what others have to say. Lots of good stuff comes from it.


----------



## derickwm

SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning


----------



## DarthBaggins

Guess that thermosphere is enough, looks good and mobile








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> This space left intentionally blank. No freaking idea why...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started on an Atari 1200 XL back in 1982, wish I still had it. The Atari and Apple IIc (in school). I am rather... uh... not young? Yeah, that's it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do upgrade fairly often in one way or another and still learn something new here. Learning let's me know I am not dead yet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Sometimes I get taken incorrectly and someone gets their knickers in a twist.
> The ST10 is a taller version of the SM8 with ten expansion slots for the motherboard. A person can fit two 480's and a 360 in P/P inside the case and still be able to fit everything else necessary; not to mention some pantry overflow. My wife calls it a refrigerator - because it should be one!
> Wait times were bad for awhile that I know of, the word from the owner of CaseLabs. We do get spoiled by instant everything and I completely agree with not complaining about waiting for such a product worth that wait.
> *Disclaimer* - See Comment - "I am spoiled rotten by CaseLabs." Yeah, for the price-point the cases I mentioned are not horrible. It is hard to eat wax fruit once you have eaten the real thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Ford F150 has a full towing package, spray-in bedliner, 365 horsepower and 425 ft/lbs of torque! I made sure I can get to LAN Parties fast and without damaging my truck or the ST10! The only thing I haven't worked out yet is where to mount a generator to power it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife is great. she lets me have the computer hobby... as long as I don't bankrupt us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ST10 with all the extras is pretty darned big. Like a TX10, but thinner. As far as radiators go, I actually have another XTX 360 and XTX 480. I am fighting the urge to include them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, I sold two D5 pumps with EK tops, dress-up kits and reservoirs... after I sold them, I was like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "I need those!" Oh well... caught a sell-out on the dual pump/top assembly when EK placed them on EOL. Make a mistake by selling the first two only to blunder into an even better deal with the dual setup. That is the primary reason I am going single loop. It's enough pump to keep the bilges dry on an aircraft carrier, so why the heck not?
> Thank you for the commentary about the order. When I start a build, I already have my mind set on one or two possibilities, but I like to see what others have to say. Lots of good stuff comes from it.


Good thing they make casters for CL cases lol


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think everyone should buy D Frame Mini's personally.....


Heh. Yesterday I bought a floor model D Frame Mini for $80 at Frys. Missing some hardware, but nothing critical. With that price tag, I couldn't pass it up.


----------



## X-Nine

Just so you have it from the horse's mouth, any cases that we discontinue, we support current owners for typically a year, and in a lot of instances, longer than that. That's every panel, every cage or accessory that we possibly can.

As for lead times, they're down 60% from where they were just even a month ago. The business took off like no one ever thought it would, tough decisions were made, and in the end we feel they were the right decisions to get us back on track.

You'll probably never see us offer every case we have in a couple day turn around, but with two Quick Ship options now available (48 hours for those models), and more coming down the line, we feel that the grind we went through was worth it. Some people don't understand what is involved in our fabrication process, but these cases are fabricated in America, by hand, and to order. These aren't stamped clones.

Though I hear the Lab Chimps are working on cloning themselves... When confronted they suddenly go mum...


----------



## Piciato

Hi guys! First time watercooling builder here.


----------



## DRKreiger

^^ love the green. excellent work for a first timer


----------



## DRKreiger

latest variation of my rig. Changed more times than my underwear over the years









The top of this case was a particular challenge. With the 2 140mm fans having a space between them, a single 280mm would have some unused surface area. Plus, everything I was interested in would have put the fitting threads somewhere inaccessible. Next is to track down the R#E motherboard waterblock that doesn't cost a fortune


----------



## Piciato

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> ^^ love the green. excellent work for a first timer


Thank u kind sir! took me a full 4 months to get to where i am. i usually build air cool pc. it is a fun and not wallet friendly hobby!


----------



## BrjSan

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piciato*
> 
> Hi guys! First time watercooling builder here.






photo is a bit dark, what fitting u used to link the two straight tubes (Pump to GPU), is it Alphacool ?


----------



## bundymania

New toys and a little comparison. Prices in Euro (Caseking.de and Aquatuning.de)



















Alphacool: 17 €
BP: ~ 28 €





































Alphacool: 5,39 €
BP: ~ 14 €


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> New toys and a little comparison. Prices in Euro (Caseking.de and Aquatuning.de)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool: 17 €
> BP: ~ 28 €
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool: 5,39 €
> BP: ~ 14 €


I think the only point for the decision between both is quality and durability of the finish. Technicaly I would asume that the row part come from the same OEM.


----------



## IT Diva

I wouldn't care if they offered to give me the stools for free, . . . . .

I know which ones I will continue to use regardless of cost, and as exclusively as possible . . .

Never had a stool that didn't seem loose at the joint and ready to leak if you shook it more than twice or looked at it the wrong way. . . . .









That few dollars saved initially will feel like penny wise and pound foolish when the inevitable leak fries something expensive.










Darlene


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I wouldn't care if they offered to give me the stools for free, . . . . .
> 
> I know which ones I will continue to use regardless of cost, and as exclusively as possible . . .
> 
> Never had a stool that didn't seem loose at the joint and ready to leak if you shook it more than twice or looked at it the wrong way. . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That few dollars saved initially will feel like penny wise and pound foolish when the inevitable leak fries something expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Since I'm not that experienced in the water cooling ( only ~1 year experience), I can only say that for the rads(based on last 3 x UT 60 280mm rads I bought from them) are the same quality / contamination degree from processing like the HW Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 140 XFlow or the MagiCool Xflow Copper Radiator II - 240 mm. Based on the cleaning process I did.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Just so you have it from the horse's mouth, any cases that we discontinue, we support current owners for typically a year, and in a lot of instances, longer than that. That's every panel, every cage or accessory that we possibly can.
> 
> As for lead times, they're down 60% from where they were just even a month ago. The business took off like no one ever thought it would, tough decisions were made, and in the end we feel they were the right decisions to get us back on track.
> 
> You'll probably never see us offer every case we have in a couple day turn around, but with two Quick Ship options now available (48 hours for those models), and more coming down the line, we feel that the grind we went through was worth it. Some people don't understand what is involved in our fabrication process, but these cases are fabricated in America, by hand, and to order. These aren't stamped clones.
> 
> Though I hear the Lab Chimps are working on cloning themselves... When confronted they suddenly go mum...


Lab Chimps... cloning themselves... tee hee!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning


New project?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Guess that thermosphere is enough, looks good and mobile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing they make casters for CL cases lol


I have never been what community people typically refer to as a fanboy of any product or brand, but then I realized one day, when it comes to CaseLabs... I am guilty as charged. I bought my CaseLabs chassis, a new house to keep it safe and cozy, then a new truck to carry it around. Yes, it would seem I fit the description.

BUT!! The HD casters make it totally mobile!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning


Looks like a Thermosphere and you were able to keep the midplate....mmmmm wish that was the case with my EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ (4995).


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piciato*
> 
> Hi guys! First time watercooling builder here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!







Your first time work is better than my 5th time work!















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> latest variation of my rig. Changed more times than my underwear over the years
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of this case was a particular challenge. With the 2 140mm fans having a space between them, a single 280mm would have some unused surface area. Plus, everything I was interested in would have put the fitting threads somewhere inaccessible. Next is to track down the R#E motherboard waterblock that doesn't cost a fortune


I like the white accenting on the PSU grill and EVGA backplates.


----------



## orvils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Looks like a Thermosphere and you were able to keep the midplate....mmmmm wish that was the case with my EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ (4995).


If you have full cover midplate similar to one I have on my 970 acx2.0+ then you can fit it, if you want to modify the mounting plate of EK thermosphere.
Here is a pic of g80 mounting plate that I filed down in needed places:









Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning


Interesting build there, I love the way you were actually able to combine the radiator fans with VRM cooling









I'm stuck with this myself:


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New project?
Click to expand...

Yep 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a Thermosphere and you were able to keep the midplate....mmmmm wish that was the case with my EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ (4995).
Click to expand...

Not quite, had to shave the plate a bit near the top...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SFF + MSI 980 Ti Lightning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting build there, I love the way you were actually able to combine the radiator fans with VRM cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm stuck with this myself:
Click to expand...

Yes the case has quite a unique layout that worked out for the best. I like your solution though!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Piciato*
> 
> Hi guys! First time watercooling builder here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photo is a bit dark, what fitting u used to link the two straight tubes (Pump to GPU), is it Alphacool ?
Click to expand...

Looks like he is using the standard 90 degrees fitting with EK-HD adapter at one end & EK-HD female adapter at the other end.


----------



## MIGhunter

Having an issue with my build. I have 2 questions.

1. I'm using soft tubing. How would you guys route it in this pic? I don't have any 90 degree fittings. Just normal fittings.

2. How would you mount the pump? The fan spot one the bottom right where I had planned to put it is covered by the PSU. The little spot on the far right with pre-drilled holes is blocked by the rad.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Looks like he is using the standard 90 degrees fitting with EK-HD adapter at one end & EK-HD female adapter at the other end.


Yeah, rotary 90's and male + female HD fittings


----------



## batmanwcm

Alright guys, I figure I would ask here. I bought a used MCP35x on ebay and when I opened it today, I notice that the impeller color is brown instead of the normal blue that I have on my other MCP35x. I also noticed that the original seller might have used a black marker and tried to blacken the brown impeller and try and turn it black.

My question, did the MCP35x ever come with a brown impeller?


----------



## Questors

What Hammerforged did here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1351221/sponsored-case-labs-st10-project-hardline

I want to do something like this in my current build.




The only tubing I can locate comes in rolled bundles. Better to have straight pieces.
Thus I ask:
1) Source(s) for 1/2" OD straight tubing sections?
2) Source(s) for fittings besides the Koolance used by Hammerforged?


----------



## kgtuning

@Questors

http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101


----------



## Frestoinc

what are the coolants i should buy if i want to have a clear (abit dark) blood red with petg tubing?

just a litre of distilled water with mayhem XT-1 red? is that all? are there any other things i should take note of?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> @Questors
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101


Thanks, I didn't realize there is two separate threads for tubing.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So by dropping my EX240, and adding an RX480 and 560GTS (as well as my RX360 and RX240), my overall water temps have dropped nearly 10c (at the moment). I will say though that all my fans are running at max... 1300RPM for 12 SP120's (480 and 240 push pull), 1800-1900 for the Vardar 140ER's (560GTS push), and 2000 for the Vardar 120 ER's (RX360 push). I don't keep that fans this high, but that's so awesome to drop 10c, down to never hitting 30c in water temps.
> 
> Now it's time to add the crazy voltages and hopefully keep my TitanX's below 45c max
> yes, I had a brainfart and typed "air" instead of "error". Thanks man. Got it working now.


To air is human.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Thanks, I didn't realize there is two separate threads for tubing.


Yeah there is a ton of good information there about copper tube bending.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> To air is human.


I see what you did there...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Having an issue with my build. I have 2 questions.
> 
> 1. I'm using soft tubing. How would you guys route it in this pic? I don't have any 90 degree fittings. Just normal fittings.
> 
> 2. How would you mount the pump? The fan spot one the bottom right where I had planned to put it is covered by the PSU. The little spot on the far right with pre-drilled holes is blocked by the rad.


You know order has practically no difference in temps?
Cpu only loop?
Pump>Front rad>Top rad>Cpu block>Res>Pump.

Can highly advice you to get some adapters though (90, 45 degrees). Can make life a lot easier.









Second point.
You can drill the holes yourself? That's what I did.
Which pump do you use and with what kind of mount? *Tip of the day*: Use a decoupler.

Let us know if you have more specific questions.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> You know order has practically no difference in temps?
> Cpu only loop?
> Pump>Front rad>Top rad>Cpu block>Res>Pump.
> 
> Can highly advice you to get some adapters though (90, 45 degrees). Can make life a lot easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second point.
> You can drill the holes yourself? That's what I did.
> Which pump do you use and with what kind of mount? *Tip of the day*: Use a decoupler.
> 
> Let us know if you have more specific questions.


What's a decoupler?

I'm using *This pump*

I already have all of the fittings, do those plug into the end of a 90 degree bend? i.e. did I waste money getting them?

My question about routing the tubing wasn't really about the flow but how would you do it since the space is a little tighter than I expected.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> What's a decoupler?


Decouple - verb - to absorb the shock of

Decoupler - noun - The device or assembly that absorbs shock and vibration and prevents transference from one place to another

It can be something as simple as cutting an old mouse pad up into the size you need and placing it between the pump mount and your case. Below are some examples of different types from retail sources.

https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-shoggy-sandwich-building-kit-for-pump-decoupling-version-20.html

https://modmymods.com/universal-pump-mounting-socket-eheim-phobya-laing.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting.html


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> What's a decoupler?
> 
> I'm using *This pump*
> 
> I already have all of the fittings, do those plug into the end of a 90 degree bend? i.e. did I waste money getting them?
> 
> My question about routing the tubing wasn't really about the flow but how would you do it since the space is a little tighter than I expected.


Nice pump.
Can recommend you to use the supplied standoffs and place the pump with those four attached onto the decoupler.

About the fittings. There are rotary fittings but I was talking about adapters. Adapters will allow you to use existing fittings.
I use a couple of Bitspower 90 degree rotary fittings, but as you already have sufficient fittings I can advice you something like this:

45 degree adapter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21230/ex-tub-1998/Bitspower_G14_Thread_45-Degree_Rotary_Adapter_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-BS45R.html?tl=g30c101s1305#blank
90 degree adapter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23514/ex-tub-3033/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_Adapter_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-BS90R.html?tl=g30c101s1306

I like to use Bitspower but feel free to use whatever you like. Most fittings/adapters are close to each other price-wise.

If you have some more spare cash it might be handy to also get some extenders like these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25071/ex-tub-3334/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Silver_BP-WTP-C40.html?tl=g30c101s1354#blank
These are sold in various lengths. So if you do decide to use some be sure to measure first.

Angled fittings are handy to make sharper turns. Especially on you top radiator. There I would personally use extenders plus angled adapters. But you have the case standing near you so you have better insight in the space. Measure









*I know* fittings and the likes can be a bit expensive but don't skimp. It can make the build so much easier. Less tubing is better (more water is more to cool) and looks better. You also risk tubing to kink when you make to sharp angles.
And remember, fittings will last you a long time if you do take care of them. You can never have to much







.

See the reply of Questors and my reply to that.
Will also sort out your pump placement problem. Just used the supplied double sided tape to secure the Shoggy sandwich and place the pump on there, can be secured with double sided tape if needed. Mostly a pump is secure by its weight already.

You say you have little space? Here's mine, don't mind the phone pictures I just made:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







You see the angled fittings? Imagine when I have a straight fitting on the lower end of the gpu block. Would make the tubing much longer.

Now I think of it. Don't forget to make a drain line (been there, done that). See the piece of white tubing I have?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Decouple - verb - to absorb the shock of
> 
> Decoupler - noun - The device or assembly that absorbs shock and vibration and prevents transference from one place to another
> 
> It can be something as simple as cutting an old mouse pad up into the size you need and placing it between the pump mount and your case. Below are some examples of different types from retail sources.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-shoggy-sandwich-building-kit-for-pump-decoupling-version-20.html
> 
> https://modmymods.com/universal-pump-mounting-socket-eheim-phobya-laing.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting.html


Very nice Questors.
Couldn't respond better myself.

Only thing I want to add. Don't bolt the pump down if you can.
So preferable either buy the Shoggy sandwich, or make something similar yourself, and just place the pump on there.


----------



## Dave6531

Does anyone use silicone grease or anything on the o-ring packings before inserting hard line tube into the fitting? Going to be trying soap for the bending insert if that doesn't work try some silicone grease or spray.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Does anyone use silicone grease or anything on the o-ring packings before inserting hard line tube into the fitting? Going to be trying soap for the bending insert if that doesn't work try some silicone grease or spray.


I think silicone grease is the best for o-rings.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Decouple - verb - to absorb the shock of
> 
> Decoupler - noun - The device or assembly that absorbs shock and vibration and prevents transference from one place to another
> 
> It can be something as simple as cutting an old mouse pad up into the size you need and placing it between the pump mount and your case. Below are some examples of different types from retail sources.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-shoggy-sandwich-building-kit-for-pump-decoupling-version-20.html
> 
> https://modmymods.com/universal-pump-mounting-socket-eheim-phobya-laing.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ddc-anti-vibration-mounting.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nice pump.
> Can recommend you to use the supplied standoffs and place the pump with those four attached onto the decoupler.
> 
> About the fittings. There are rotary fittings but I was talking about adapters. Adapters will allow you to use existing fittings.
> I use a couple of Bitspower 90 degree rotary fittings, but as you already have sufficient fittings I can advice you something like this:
> 
> 45 degree adapter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21230/ex-tub-1998/Bitspower_G14_Thread_45-Degree_Rotary_Adapter_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-BS45R.html?tl=g30c101s1305#blank
> 90 degree adapter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23514/ex-tub-3033/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_Adapter_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-BS90R.html?tl=g30c101s1306
> 
> I like to use Bitspower but feel free to use whatever you like. Most fittings/adapters are close to each other price-wise.
> 
> If you have some more spare cash it might be handy to also get some extenders like these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25071/ex-tub-3334/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Silver_BP-WTP-C40.html?tl=g30c101s1354#blank
> These are sold in various lengths. So if you do decide to use some be sure to measure first.
> 
> Angled fittings are handy to make sharper turns. Especially on you top radiator. There I would personally use extenders plus angled adapters. But you have the case standing near you so you have better insight in the space. Measure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I know* fittings and the likes can be a bit expensive but don't skimp. It can make the build so much easier. Less tubing is better (more water is more to cool) and looks better. You also risk tubing to kink when you make to sharp angles.
> And remember, fittings will last you a long time if you do take care of them. You can never have to much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> See the reply of Questors and my reply to that.
> Will also sort out your pump placement problem. Just used the supplied double sided tape to secure the Shoggy sandwich and place the pump on there, can be secured with double sided tape if needed. Mostly a pump is secure by its weight already.
> 
> You say you have little space? Here's mine, don't mind the phone pictures I just made:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see the angled fittings? Imagine when I have a straight fitting on the lower end of the gpu block. Would make the tubing much longer.
> 
> Now I think of it. Don't forget to make a drain line (been there, done that). See the piece of white tubing I have?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice Questors.
> Couldn't respond better myself.
> 
> Only thing I want to add. Don't bolt the pump down if you can.
> So preferable either buy the Shoggy sandwich, or make something similar yourself, and just place the pump on there.


Thanks. Good info. I was really hoping to finish it this week instead of waiting another week. Oh well.

Another question, I've seen a few people run from the radiator to top cap of the reservoir. When you do that, how do you fill the system?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Another question, I've seen a few people run from the radiator to top cap of the reservoir. When you do that, how do you fill the system?


Many reservoirs have a multiple port option for the top cap. They could be filling it locally at the cap with a funnel through and unused port.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Thanks. Good info. I was really hoping to finish it this week instead of waiting another week. Oh well.
> 
> Another question, I've seen a few people run from the radiator to top cap of the reservoir. When you do that, how do you fill the system?


I specifically replaced my bitspower reservoir cap with 3 ports for feeding in, filling and LED.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-z-cap-ii-with-g1-4-x3-white-pom-version.html


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Thanks. Good info. I was really hoping to finish it this week instead of waiting another week. Oh well.
> 
> Another question, I've seen a few people run from the radiator to top cap of the reservoir. When you do that, how do you fill the system?


I know the feeling.
It's best not to rush it, you make the loop to last right? So what's another few days?









Which reservoir do you use? Because you need to add an extra tube attached to the top port if you want to use that as a return port of the loop.
That is needed to make sure the water is returned into the water inside the servoir instead of just plunging into the res causing a lot of air to keep circulating inside the loop.
I mean one of these things:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








And if your reservoir only has one port in the top cap you either need to buy a different top cap of use a T-line:
Couldn't find a nice picture but here is a one I grabbed from google:


You use the T piece to make an extra piece of tubing between on of the tubes, preferable the highest point of the loop of course so the air can escape.


----------



## MIGhunter

FYI, you guys are awesome.

So, here are the 2 different routes that I could take. Sorry didn't have a pic with the pump.

1. This would require me to drill holes or do the double sided mounting tape that you guys were talking about for the pump. Otherwise there isn't enough room for the tubing at the bottom.



2. Here is the other route. I think with this route I'd have to buy some additional fittings. i.e. the 90 or 45 degree fittings.



Which would you guys suggest?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Use a male to male to mount the pump to the res,it will lift it more in line with the GPU out and,if the res mounts are up to it,decouple the pump.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Use a male to male to mount the pump to the res,it will lift it more in line with the GPU out and,if the res mounts are up to it,decouple the pump.


You mean male to male so no tubing in between? By, "if the res mounts are up to it,decouple the pump", do you mean let the pump just hang free fall?


----------



## emsj86

Well the res mounts will hold the pump and res. I did it before it works. Or buy a ek uni holder to hold the pump. Cheap and looks good


----------



## snef

[


----------



## DarthBaggins

Too bad I only have a 2 X 4GB set of those GT's


----------



## snef

they are not GT, they are Gskill RipJaw with XSPC ram module and GT heat sink hahahahah


----------



## SteezyTN

So I have my two titan X's in its own loop with a 560, 360, and 240 rad. One card will reach 46c, and the other will reach 41c. Why is there such a huge difference in temps. The blocks are in a parallel config. Could it just be a bad mount?


----------



## DarthBaggins

LoL well then, the only RipJaws I have are 4x4GB too (well then the DDR4 set)


----------



## pc-illiterate

Decouple -verb
separate, disengage, or dissociate (something) from something else.

Do what you gotta to separate the pump from the res if it causes noise from vibrations.


----------



## Domler

Flipping my setup around a bit. I'm going to use the front fans on my s8 as exhaust. Knew I had to cover up the wires on the fan so there not an eyesore. I remembered when they covered the back of a fan in vynil. I said, I got black vynil lying around, I'll just cover the back and I'm good to go. Except they are noctua's. They don't have the standard fork spoke design. This is what I came up with. Black duck tape around the wires, vynil on the motor. Tell me what you think. Honestly.


----------



## emsj86

@snef thought you were going with a pastel but glad you didn't. I'm getting old of the pastel and really starting to like the transparent colors better. That blue fluid really just makes everything come together. Great job and great case. Congrats man. What is it mayhems blue dye added to x1


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Flipping my setup around a bit. I'm going to use the front fans on my s8 as exhaust. Knew I had to cover up the wires on the fan so there not an eyesore. I remembered when they covered the back of a fan in vynil. I said, I got black vynil lying around, I'll just cover the back and I'm good to go. Except they are noctua's. They don't have the standard fork spoke design. This is what I came up with. Black duck tape around the wires, vynil on the motor. Tell me what you think. Honestly.


Looks good to me. Had to enlarge the picture to even see it was there


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you even SSD?
> 
> 
> 
> Ooh ooh, next magic trick can you make it get black PCBs too? ^_^ By magic, I mean.... Man that's sexy.
Click to expand...

Now EK needs to make back plates to hide the fugly green PCBs.









~Ceadder


----------



## jvillaveces

Here's my second build. This was a PC for my son, to replace his aging Alienware Aurora. He decided to call it "Plasma", so here is Project Plasma!

Case: NZXT Phantom 630 - the only mod is an acrylic panel to cover the hole behind the stock HDD cages, with an Assassins Creed logo painted in UV reactive paint
Motherboard: Asus X99 Deluxe
CPU: core i7 5930k
RAM: 32 GB Corsair Vengeance 2800 MHz
GPU: EVGA Titan X SC
Storage: 1 x Kingston HyperX m.2, 1 x Intel 730 500GB, 2 x WD Black 2TB
PSU: Corsair HX1000i
Radiators: 1 x Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm (top), 1 x EK Coolstram XE 240 mm (bottom)
CPU block: EK Supremacy Evo
GPU block: EK Titan X Nickel Original CSQ
Pump: Aquacomputer D5 PWM with Bitspower mod top and mod kit (blue)
Reservoir: Bitspower Z-multi
Case fans: Corsair SP140 LED blue
Radiator fans: 5 x Noctua Noctua NF-F12 2000 PWM
Fittings: Monsoon black nickel free center compression fittings, Monsoon black nickel 45ª and 90ª adapters
Tubing: Masterkleer 1/2" - 3/4" UV clear
Coolant: Mayhems clear UV, Mayhems blue UV
Monitoring: Aquaero 6 Pro, Aquacomputer MPS400 flow sensor, Phobya inline temperature sensor
Lighting: Darkside Connect Dimmable Modular LED Strip UV Rev4 (5" and 12"), Darkisde connect 3mm and 5 mm LEDs, and NZXT Hue
My original plan was to put a 280 rad on the bottom, because the case is set for two 140 fans there. This didn't work because there would have been no space between the rads and the PSU for the cables, and because the cutout at the bottom is sized for a 240, not a 280; I would have dremeled it but the cable clearance issue still made me go with a 240 instead. I originally put in an Alphacool UT60, but the thing leaked very badly, so I replaced it with the final EK XE 240.

The idea was to have a system full of UV lights and glowy stuff, along with some normal blue lighting. All I can say about the colors and lighting is that my kid loves it! He also asked me to incorporate his initials (MV) into the design, so I designed custom fan and rad grills and had them cut out of UV reactive blue acrylic by PPCS. They turned out great!

So here is a first batch of pictures. I hope to take another set, this time with a good camera, and post them later.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> FYI, you guys are awesome.
> 
> So, here are the 2 different routes that I could take. Sorry didn't have a pic with the pump.
> 
> 1. This would require me to drill holes or do the double sided mounting tape that you guys were talking about for the pump. Otherwise there isn't enough room for the tubing at the bottom.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Here is the other route. I think with this route I'd have to buy some additional fittings. i.e. the 90 or 45 degree fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> Which would you guys suggest?


B has a good point.
Yes, if you use male to male you can just have the pump secured to the reservoir making it a res/top combo (sort of). Then it does indeed hang, directly under the reservoir. Another option is to use a bracket and mount the pump to the lower fan on the front radiator. Really depends on the fact if the reservoir mounts will hold the extra weight (tip: tie-wraps also work wonders, I've used them to secure a similar reservoir, just not as pretty).

That will also make the tubing to the gpu a bit shorter.
I would go with the second route your posted, switching the front rad so the fittings are on the top. Sadly you didn't get an UT60 or similar radiator (which has 6 ports) so you could go straight up to the second radiator.
Best is to also turn the reservoir 180 degrees so the fittings are on the right side. Then use 90 degree on both the front rad and the reservoir with possibly an extender so you can have a straight piece of tubing from the front rad to the radiator. Although I am not sure if that will fit, can't see it very good on the picture. How much room is there?

You can also turn the cpu block 180 degrees so the lower port is used as inlet from the gpu (has no impact on cooling, as long as you use the proper inlet port as inlet). Top port to the top radiator.

Hope this helps.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> FYI, you guys are awesome.
> 
> So, here are the 2 different routes that I could take. Sorry didn't have a pic with the pump.
> 
> 1. This would require me to drill holes or do the double sided mounting tape that you guys were talking about for the pump. Otherwise there isn't enough room for the tubing at the bottom.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Here is the other route. I think with this route I'd have to buy some additional fittings. i.e. the 90 or 45 degree fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which would you guys suggest?


One thing I've gone away from is connecting directly between the cpu and the top of the gpu, it means that you can't do anything to either without draining the loop and removing the linking tubing or taking the cpu block and gpu out as one unit with a short link.. doable but a major pain in the ass.

The way I solved that problem is to come from the bottom of the gpu and loop back up to the cpu, giving you alot more leeway to mess with other things without having to mess with the cooling system. The way mine is setup I could change the motherboard completely without draining the loop, I just swing the gpu and cpu block off to the right of the case.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> One thing I've gone away from is connecting directly between the cpu and the top of the gpu, it means that you can't do anything to either without draining the loop and removing the linking tubing or taking the cpu block and gpu out as one unit with a short link.. doable but a major pain in the ass.
> 
> The way I solved that problem is to come from the bottom of the gpu and loop back up to the cpu, giving you alot more leeway to mess with other things without having to mess with the cooling system. The way mine is setup I could change the motherboard completely without draining the loop, I just swing the gpu and cpu block off to the right of the case.


Nice share and good point.
I do indeed have kinda a hard time when I need to remove shizz. For me that goes double as the cpu is routed to the gpu and the other end goes out of the top of the case.








Really sucks that I couldn't place my pump inside the case, makes routing cleanly a PITA.

What diameter tubing do you run? I run 1/2" 3/4".
I don't think i can make that tight of a bend when I route from the lower port of the gpu to my cpu.

Here's mine:


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What diameter tubing do you run? I run 1/2" 3/4".
> I don't think i can make that tight of a bend when I route from the lower port of the gpu to my cpu.


The green tubing is 3/8 5/8, the black tubing is 3/8 1/2.

I especially don't recommend using 1/2 3/4 and directly connecting from the top of the gpu to the cpu, if you don't get it perfect it either pushes or pulls on the video card and 1/2 3/4 is very stiff usually and makes the card bend instead.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> B has a good point.
> Yes, if you use male to male you can just have the pump secured to the reservoir making it a res/top combo (sort of). Then it does indeed hang, directly under the reservoir. Another option is to use a bracket and mount the pump to the lower fan on the front radiator. Really depends on the fact if the reservoir mounts will hold the extra weight (tip: tie-wraps also work wonders, I've used them to secure a similar reservoir, just not as pretty).
> 
> That will also make the tubing to the gpu a bit shorter.
> I would go with the second route your posted, switching the front rad so the fittings are on the top. Sadly you didn't get an UT60 or similar radiator (which has 6 ports) so you could go straight up to the second radiator.
> Best is to also turn the reservoir 180 degrees so the fittings are on the right side. Then use 90 degree on both the front rad and the reservoir with possibly an extender so you can have a straight piece of tubing from the front rad to the radiator. Although I am not sure if that will fit, can't see it very good on the picture. How much room is there?
> 
> You can also turn the cpu block 180 degrees so the lower port is used as inlet from the gpu (has no impact on cooling, as long as you use the proper inlet port as inlet). Top port to the top radiator.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I've gone away from is connecting directly between the cpu and the top of the gpu, it means that you can't do anything to either without draining the loop and removing the linking tubing or taking the cpu block and gpu out as one unit with a short link.. doable but a major pain in the ass.
> 
> The way I solved that problem is to come from the bottom of the gpu and loop back up to the cpu, giving you alot more leeway to mess with other things without having to mess with the cooling system. The way mine is setup I could change the motherboard completely without draining the loop, I just swing the gpu and cpu block off to the right of the case.


Well, I did some more work last night. Was kind of putting off tearing apart the GPU. Wish I would have done it sooner...



So, I have no choice but to mount the Res higher, barely enough room to take the top off. It blocks the side ports on the res so I have to use the bottom ports. It also blocks the the idea of flipping the radiator over.

It did allow me to rethink some stuff. I think I can get away with one 90 degree fitting and an extension. That will allow me to use the back side port on the radiator to shoot almost straight up to the top radiator.

Something like this:


I'm using red tubing so I have clear tubing that came with my kit so I kinda played around with it a little, I think this is the best case scenerio for me. Anything you guys think I missed or can do to improve it?


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Well, I did some more work last night. Was kind of putting off tearing apart the GPU. Wish I would have done it sooner...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I have no choice but to mount the Res higher, barely enough room to take the top off. It blocks the side ports on the res so I have to use the bottom ports. It also blocks the the idea of flipping the radiator over.
> 
> It did allow me to rethink some stuff. I think I can get away with one 90 degree fitting and an extension. That will allow me to use the back side port on the radiator to shoot almost straight up to the top radiator.
> 
> Something like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using red tubing so I have clear tubing that came with my kit so I kinda played around with it a little, I think this is the best case scenerio for me. Anything you guys think I missed or can do to improve it?



That´s how I´m going to run the tubing on my arc mini.
Pump on the bottom will go into gpu -> CPU -> Cpu top 360 rad (fittings are on the backside of the case and from the outport ot the top 360 to the Front 240 rad input near the mainborad side.
Basically the same layout like you but I´ve rotated the front rad. Pump sits on a shoggy and the connection to the res is soft tube so it should run really silent and decoupled of from the case


----------



## jon666

I think my RMA for my cpu block fell through the cracks. Hopefully this gets sorted so I can put my CPU and Nitro 390 under water.


----------



## TPham

My first build (version 2). Someone ask for a build log so I think i'm going to create a build log since I have everything logs along the way.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My first build (version 2). Someone ask for a build log so I think i'm going to create a build log since I have everything logs along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sẽ update thêm 1 vài thứ sau!


Looking good man! Really wish Corsair offered a white version of the 900D when it was out.

That black/white combo works very well


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Here's my second build. This was a PC for my son, to replace his aging Alienware Aurora. He decided to call it "Plasma", so here is Project Plasma!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case: NZXT Phantom 630 - the only mod is an acrylic panel to cover the hole behind the stock HDD cages, with an Assassins Creed logo painted in UV reactive paint
> Motherboard: Asus X99 Deluxe
> CPU: core i7 5930k
> RAM: 32 GB Corsair Vengeance 2800 MHz
> GPU: EVGA Titan X SC
> Storage: 1 x Kingston HyperX m.2, 1 x Intel 730 500GB, 2 x WD Black 2TB
> PSU: Corsair HX1000i
> Radiators: 1 x Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm (top), 1 x EK Coolstram XE 240 mm (bottom)
> CPU block: EK Supremacy Evo
> GPU block: EK Titan X Nickel Original CSQ
> Pump: Aquacomputer D5 PWM with Bitspower mod top and mod kit (blue)
> Reservoir: Bitspower Z-multi
> Case fans: Corsair SP140 LED blue
> Radiator fans: 5 x Noctua Noctua NF-F12 2000 PWM
> Fittings: Monsoon black nickel free center compression fittings, Monsoon black nickel 45ª and 90ª adapters
> Tubing: Masterkleer 1/2" - 3/4" UV clear
> Coolant: Mayhems clear UV, Mayhems blue UV
> Monitoring: Aquaero 6 Pro, Aquacomputer MPS400 flow sensor, Phobya inline temperature sensor
> Lighting: Darkside Connect Dimmable Modular LED Strip UV Rev4 (5" and 12"), Darkisde connect 3mm and 5 mm LEDs, and NZXT Hue
> 
> 
> 
> My original plan was to put a 280 rad on the bottom, because the case is set for two 140 fans there. This didn't work because there would have been no space between the rads and the PSU for the cables, and because the cutout at the bottom is sized for a 240, not a 280; I would have dremeled it but the cable clearance issue still made me go with a 240 instead. I originally put in an Alphacool UT60, but the thing leaked very badly, so I replaced it with the final EK XE 240.
> 
> The idea was to have a system full of UV lights and glowy stuff, along with some normal blue lighting. All I can say about the colors and lighting is that my kid loves it! He also asked me to incorporate his initials (MV) into the design, so I designed custom fan and rad grills and had them cut out of UV reactive blue acrylic by PPCS. They turned out great!
> 
> So here is a first batch of pictures. I hope to take another set, this time with a good camera, and post them later.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. The coloring reminds me of lightning in a snow storm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My first build (version 2). Someone ask for a build log so I think i'm going to create a build log since I have everything logs along the way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good! I have to wonder how much time it took to get all the fittings and tubes to the proper measurements?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My first build (version 2). Someone ask for a build log so I think i'm going to create a build log since I have everything logs along the way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sẽ update thêm 1 vài thứ sau!


Great work, I love it

I'm surprise no one said , why no bend??


----------



## TPham

I love Bitspower fittings too much?


----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Great work, I love it
> 
> I'm surprise no one said , why no bend??


I love Bitspower fittings too much?


----------



## emsj86

Do you guys edit your pictures to get the all black background or do you use a sheet. I only have a cheap 150 sony camera for a two years back. But want to see if it's possible to still take some good photos


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do you guys edit your pictures to get the all black background or do you use a sheet. I only have a cheap 150 sony camera for a two years back. But want to see if it's possible to still take some good photos


Use a sheet, I know some use a Light Box or have lighting rigs setup to take the shots you're talking about


----------



## catbuster

@TPham nice build, just tired of rog logos everywhere, without them very nice


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> I love Bitspower fittings too much?


ohhh no, I used the exact same type of loop design, and always someone said , "why no bend?"


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah Snef why no bend, lol


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My first build (version 2). Someone ask for a build log so I think i'm going to create a build log since I have everything logs along the way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So you are telling this is your first build, although updated?
If so, where did you get the experience?

IMO it is almost flawless.


----------



## mouacyk




----------



## TPham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> So you are telling this is your first build, although updated?
> If so, where did you get the experience?
> 
> IMO it is almost flawless.


Well I buit a computer 5 year back using one of the cheap liquid cooling kit so I wouldnt consider a real build. The first time I built this case, i didnt like it so I re-buit it right away so that why This is version 2. This build took me a few months actually.

Version 1.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Finally got some uv dye and love it!


----------



## Way2grouchy

Think I want this case. Easier for case to be to left of me and I would actually be able to see video card waterblocks.


----------



## alltheGHz

Isn't that case absolutely massive? I mean lotsa room for water-cooling shenanigans, but I mean...

Also, Guys I have a problem where the fittings from my rad are preventing me from putting stuff on the top flex bay area, are there any solutions to this problem?





Here's the build log for more pics http://www.overclock.net/t/1563377/build-log-caselabs-s5-5820k-gtx


----------



## Ceadderman

That's why I am flipped my MB tray configurations in the old 932. I would get a Silverstone but those things are going for a mint. So after I finish the 932 I will be going Caselabs after that. With the help of the ever important tax return.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Here's my second build. This was a PC for my son, to replace his aging Alienware Aurora. He decided to call it "Plasma", so here is Project Plasma!
> 
> Case: NZXT Phantom 630 - the only mod is an acrylic panel to cover the hole behind the stock HDD cages, with an Assassins Creed logo painted in UV reactive paint
> Motherboard: Asus X99 Deluxe
> CPU: core i7 5930k
> RAM: 32 GB Corsair Vengeance 2800 MHz
> GPU: EVGA Titan X SC
> Storage: 1 x Kingston HyperX m.2, 1 x Intel 730 500GB, 2 x WD Black 2TB
> PSU: Corsair HX1000i
> Radiators: 1 x Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm (top), 1 x EK Coolstram XE 240 mm (bottom)
> CPU block: EK Supremacy Evo
> GPU block: EK Titan X Nickel Original CSQ
> Pump: Aquacomputer D5 PWM with Bitspower mod top and mod kit (blue)
> Reservoir: Bitspower Z-multi
> Case fans: Corsair SP140 LED blue
> Radiator fans: 5 x Noctua Noctua NF-F12 2000 PWM
> Fittings: Monsoon black nickel free center compression fittings, Monsoon black nickel 45ª and 90ª adapters
> Tubing: Masterkleer 1/2" - 3/4" UV clear
> Coolant: Mayhems clear UV, Mayhems blue UV
> Monitoring: Aquaero 6 Pro, Aquacomputer MPS400 flow sensor, Phobya inline temperature sensor
> Lighting: Darkside Connect Dimmable Modular LED Strip UV Rev4 (5" and 12"), Darkisde connect 3mm and 5 mm LEDs, and NZXT Hue
> My original plan was to put a 280 rad on the bottom, because the case is set for two 140 fans there. This didn't work because there would have been no space between the rads and the PSU for the cables, and because the cutout at the bottom is sized for a 240, not a 280; I would have dremeled it but the cable clearance issue still made me go with a 240 instead. I originally put in an Alphacool UT60, but the thing leaked very badly, so I replaced it with the final EK XE 240.
> 
> The idea was to have a system full of UV lights and glowy stuff, along with some normal blue lighting. All I can say about the colors and lighting is that my kid loves it! He also asked me to incorporate his initials (MV) into the design, so I designed custom fan and rad grills and had them cut out of UV reactive blue acrylic by PPCS. They turned out great!
> 
> So here is a first batch of pictures. I hope to take another set, this time with a good camera, and post them later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I hope your son appreciates it, that thing is so nice!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> Well I buit a computer 5 year back using one of the cheap liquid cooling kit so I wouldnt consider a real build. The first time I built this case, i didnt like it so I re-buit it right away so that why This is version 2. This build took me a few months actually.
> 
> Version 1.


Agree. This version is much better IMO.
You did a single loop the first time?

What I like the most are the straight lines. That is the thing with rigid tubing, the slightest fault stands out. So it has to be perfect (or at least very close).
I do want to go that route though. But for the time being it is working so I ain't gonna mess with my loop. But, new stuff = rigid tubing.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's why I am flipped my MB tray configurations in the old 932. I would get a Silverstone but those things are going for a mint. So after I finish the 932 I will be going Caselabs after that. With the help of the ever important tax return.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea I like the caselabs also but the one I want is never in stock. Do you have any pics of the flipped mb tray in your 932?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Finally got some uv dye and love it!


Love the green UV. What coolant are you using and what kind of lighting?


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPham*
> 
> My first build (version 2). Someone ask for a build log so I think i'm going to create a build log since I have everything logs along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build, and I like the fittings over the bends.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Isn't that case absolutely massive? I mean lotsa room for water-cooling shenanigans, but I mean...
> 
> Also, Guys I have a problem where the fittings from my rad are preventing me from putting stuff on the top flex bay area, are there any solutions to this problem?
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the build log for more pics http://www.overclock.net/t/1563377/build-log-caselabs-s5-5820k-gtx


Flip the rad or buy one with multiple ports on it either end. That's your only solution.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Flip the rad or buy one with multiple ports on it either end. That's your only solution.


Yes, but I wanted the fittings over on the side where all the important stuff isn't, so if it leaks it's not as bad.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Think I want this case. Easier for case to be to left of me and I would actually be able to see video card waterblocks.


Tj07 is another option if you like that style. @alltheghz either go 240 rad or flip it. Not much you can do with the flex bay the way it is as any Adapter or fitting will block it


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> I hope your son appreciates it, that thing is so nice!


When I was his age my dad got me my first computer (a Sinclair ZX-81), which you hooked up to the TV. It booted up straight to BASIC, and had a very weird keyboard with three characters per key. I was beside myself with excitement, and would spend hours and hours learning to program. When I started on this project, I fully expected it to be a four-handed effort, but that is not the way these things go with kids, so he quickly became in charge of critiquing my skills and rate of progress, while I remained in charge of doing, Now that it has been officially delivered, he's very excited, and that makes me happy, but I still don't think he actually realizes the kind of computer he got or the sort of privilege it represents. Maybe one day he will look back and figure it out?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's why I am flipped my MB tray configurations in the old 932. I would get a Silverstone but those things are going for a mint. So after I finish the 932 I will be going Caselabs after that. With the help of the ever important tax return.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I like the caselabs also but the one I want is never in stock. Do you have any pics of the flipped mb tray in your 932?
Click to expand...

Nope. Case is disassembled atm. But will be posting pics here when everything is back together. It's not that difficult really. Just make sure to get the right rivets drilled out or it's a bit more work. There are support tabs that need to be accounted for too, but a Dremel is handy to cut fresh slots for.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> I hope your son appreciates it, that thing is so nice!
> 
> 
> 
> When I was his age my dad got me my first computer (a *Sinclair ZX-81*), which you hooked up to the TV. It booted up straight to BASIC, and had a very weird keyboard with three characters per key. I was beside myself with excitement, and would spend hours and hours learning to program. When I started on this project, I fully expected it to be a four-handed effort, but that is not the way these things go with kids, so he quickly became in charge of critiquing my skills and rate of progress, while I remained in charge of doing, Now that it has been officially delivered, he's very excited, and that makes me happy, but I still don't think he actually realizes the kind of computer he got or the sort of privilege it represents. Maybe one day he will look back and figure it out?
Click to expand...

I started with the 48.

Bloody awesome machine,still got it in the loft....somewhere.

Racked 100's of hours on ELITE,left the thing on for months at a time.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

B Neg,

You have one of those In win 909s lying around?

Think I could get that off of you if you don't need it anymore. Kinda tossing the idea around about building it one for a change of pace, although the Price of 450 is a tad steep.

I could get a Ped and S3 for around 550 with a tad more rad room. What you thinking?

TCO


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> When I was his age my dad got me my first computer (a Sinclair ZX-81), which you hooked up to the TV. It booted up straight to BASIC, and had a very weird keyboard with three characters per key. I was beside myself with excitement, and would spend hours and hours learning to program. When I started on this project, I fully expected it to be a four-handed effort, but that is not the way these things go with kids, so he quickly became in charge of critiquing my skills and rate of progress, while I remained in charge of doing, Now that it has been officially delivered, he's very excited, and that makes me happy, but I still don't think he actually realizes the kind of computer he got or the sort of privilege it represents. Maybe one day he will look back and figure it out?


How old is he, if I may ask?

It is a beast of a machine to get as a present IMO.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> B Neg,
> 
> You have one of those In win 909s lying around?
> 
> Think I could get that off of you if you don't need it anymore. Kinda tossing the idea around about building it one for a change of pace, although the Price of 450 is a tad steep.
> 
> I could get a Ped and S3 for around 550 with a tad more rad room. What you thinking?
> 
> TCO


Im biased,if you want to work at it then get the In Win,if you want it provided on a plate then get the Caselabs.

Sadly I dont have a 909 for myself yet alone one to give away....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im biased,if you want to work at it then get the In Win,if you want it provided on a plate then get the Caselabs.
> 
> Sadly I dont have a 909 for myself yet alone one to give away....


Interesting outlook about the Plate fed or Working at it. The In Win looks like you would have to work at it for sure thought, so I can see where you are coming from.

Didn't realize you haven't gotten a 909 yet








TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im biased,if you want to work at it then get the In Win,if you want it provided on a plate then get the Caselabs.
> 
> Sadly I dont have a 909 for myself yet alone one to give away....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting outlook about the Plate fed or Working at it. The In Win looks like you would have to work at it for sure thought, so I can see where you are coming from.
> 
> Didn't realize you haven't gotten a 909 yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

The Caselabs is designed to make it easy for you,there is a place for everything....not so much with the In Win range. You have to get creative to get everything you want in to them.

As for the 909...not really in to them,I like the 901...I have one im about to start....after the mill is finished. I need it to make the parts.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Love the green UV. What coolant are you using and what kind of lighting?


mayhems uv laser green and darkside uv


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> How old is he, if I may ask?
> 
> It is a beast of a machine to get as a present IMO.


He's 14


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> mayhems uv laser green and darkside uv


Thanks, have to admit, it glows really nice. Have you noticed any reduction in glow or change in color over time? Thinking to move from UV Blue to Green UV just because how badass it looks


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks, have to admit, it glows really nice. Have you noticed any reduction in glow or change in color over time? Thinking to move from UV Blue to Green UV just because how badass it looks


Dont know just started using it but so far still looks good


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. Case is disassembled atm. But will be posting pics here when everything is back together. It's not that difficult really. Just make sure to get the right rivets drilled out or it's a bit more work. There are support tabs that need to be accounted for too, but a Dremel is handy to cut fresh slots for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the idea Ceadder! I took my whole rig apart so i can try turning it into a left side case and rotate the mb tray. Having fun doing the work and its going pretty good.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Caselabs is designed to make it easy for you,there is a place for everything....not so much with the In Win range. You have to get creative to get everything you want in to them.
> 
> As for the 909...not really in to them,I like the 901...I have one im about to start....after the mill is finished. I need it to make the parts.


I like the 909 because of the Back space to put a 360rad. The 901 is a little guy you know?

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

I also like the 909 as its a rather sexy case. I would have to modify the innards to make it fit my needs though.

I think I've decided on another sexy case that I will modify for the better.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I wouldn't mind playing w/ a 904 Plus myself, 909 is a good sized tower as well


----------



## mhawkinson

Here is my setup,

Nzxt S340 Black on Black
Gigabyte z97x gaming 5
i7-4790 (non k)
32gb HyperX memory
ATI 7970 Ghz Edition
"custom" water loop (started w/ the EK-Kit L240 2.0)
Mayhems Aurora Red Coolant
Samsung 850 Evo 250gb SSD
WD Black 2TB storage drive
LG 21:9 monitor

i love this setup!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Caselabs is designed to make it easy for you,there is a place for everything....not so much with the In Win range. You have to get creative to get everything you want in to them.
> 
> As for the 909...not really in to them,I like the 901...I have one im about to start....after the mill is finished. I need it to make the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> I like the 909 because of the Back space to put a 360rad. The 901 is a little guy you know?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I do indeed,I have the pieces of one scattered around my desk......

Its all about big things in small cases for me,turns the difficulty notch right up


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do indeed,I have the pieces of one scattered around my desk......
> 
> Its all about big things in small cases for me,turns the difficulty notch right up


Yes. That is the thing I see most of when I look at the In Wins. Difficulty. Not sure if I am ready for that just yet (Well, I am...) but more along the lines of how adequate could I use the case to it's full potential.

TCO


----------



## fisher6

I think I might have a possible leak in my loop. Nothing bad has happened yet. I'm still getting bubbles out of my system and filling after I changed to UV Blue a few weeks ago. Today, by chance, I saw that the EK 90 degrees fitting that I'm using on the multi port top has UV liquid around it, it appears to be dry and very little. I'm not sure if I should just mop it off and try to see if it's actually leaking by waiting or just tighten the fitting. You can clearly see the fitting and around it how it glows under UV light:


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> FYI, you guys are awesome.
> 
> So, here are the 2 different routes that I could take. Sorry didn't have a pic with the pump.
> 
> 1. This would require me to drill holes or do the double sided mounting tape that you guys were talking about for the pump. Otherwise there isn't enough room for the tubing at the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Here is the other route. I think with this route I'd have to buy some additional fittings. i.e. the 90 or 45 degree fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> Which would you guys suggest?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I think I might have a possible leak in my loop. Nothing bad has happened yet. I'm still getting bubbles out of my system and filling after I changed to UV Blue a few weeks ago. Today, by chance, I saw that the EK 90 degrees fitting that I'm using on the multi port top has UV liquid around it, it appears to be dry and very little. I'm not sure if I should just mop it off and try to see if it's actually leaking by waiting or just tighten the fitting. You can clearly see the fitting and around it how it glows under UV light:


Please Remove Fitting and replace. OR else the next post you make will be something along the lines of "oh, well, the fitting had dry residue and everything was ok, but now my floor is soaked with UV coolant and this and that has burned out, and Ek needs to replace the components" Yada Yada.

Better safe then sorry. 15$ fitting.... Or Component failure and replacement









TCO


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Please Remove Fitting and replace. OR else the next post you make will be something along the lines of "oh, well, the fitting had dry residue and everything was ok, but now my floor is soaked with UV coolant and this and that has burned out, and Ek needs to replace the components" Yada Yada.
> 
> Better safe then sorry. 15$ fitting.... Or Component failure and replacement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yeah that might be the best thing to do to be safe. If it does burst open the first thing that will get wet it my 980 Ti block/card if not the pump. Adding to the trouble is that I have been running this config/loop for a few months and since I was using clear EK coolant, it would have been impossible for me to see it back then if it was drying up and leaking slowly but now with the UV I can see it. Simply put, I don't know for how long the fitting has been unstable. Replacing it would mean taking the loop apart but if it's necessary then I will do that. Has anyone else had any problems with these fittings or maybe it just happens to be faulty.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I think I might have a possible leak in my loop. Nothing bad has happened yet. I'm still getting bubbles out of my system and filling after I changed to UV Blue a few weeks ago. Today, by chance, I saw that the EK 90 degrees fitting that I'm using on the multi port top has UV liquid around it, it appears to be dry and very little. I'm not sure if I should just mop it off and try to see if it's actually leaking by waiting or just tighten the fitting. You can clearly see the fitting and around it how it glows under UV light:


Because you didnt use the extender methinks........

Is it seated correctly?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because you didnt use the extender methinks........
> 
> Is it seated correctly?


I honestly don't remember if I used the extender. I think I did but not 100% sure. That said, it should be pretty tight. Nothing leaked during leak testing but that was like 7 months ago. I just noticed it today under UV light. It's not leaking even a drop but very slowly around it looks like it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

In other news....

The board/CPU for IDORU is dead.....This build is cursed......


----------



## snef

GO HABS GO! Update

build is done,
we will give it to the kid on November 21
i will post some pics and video of him receiving the computer ,

again i want to say a BIG Thanks you to everyone who help me on this one , believe me the Children will LOVE IT! a lot, im sure
and want to say Thanks to Parvum System for the very great case, EK for water cooling stuff, Darkside and Moddingstylez for all modding goodies and led
and for sure everyone who sent me hardware like Kennah fo APU, Nass for Motherboard, Bartacus for Power supply, Stéphane Omer Landry for the GPU and member of overcloqc.com

Thanks a lot to everyone


----------



## Way2grouchy

Awesome job snef!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Please Remove Fitting and replace. OR else the next post you make will be something along the lines of "oh, well, the fitting had dry residue and everything was ok, but now my floor is soaked with UV coolant and this and that has burned out, and Ek needs to replace the components" Yada Yada.
> 
> Better safe then sorry. 15$ fitting.... Or Component failure and replacement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


+2


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> GO HABS GO! Update
> 
> build is done,
> we will give it to the kid on November 21
> i will post some pics and video of him receiving the computer ,
> 
> again i want to say a BIG Thanks you to everyone who help me on this one , believe me the Children will LOVE IT! a lot, im sure
> and want to say Thanks to Parvum System for the very great case, EK for water cooling stuff, Darkside and Moddingstylez for all modding goodies and led
> and for sure everyone who sent me hardware like Kennah fo APU, Nass for Motherboard, Bartacus for Power supply, Stéphane Omer Landry for the GPU and member of overcloqc.com
> 
> Thanks a lot to everyone
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing! I am a sucker for red, white and blue themes - good stuff! I really like how light either reflects off or shines through the panels and spreads colors around.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Yes, but I wanted the fittings over on the side where all the important stuff isn't, so if it leaks it's not as bad.


It's a water distribution system inside a box full of electronics. What could possibly go wrong?


















...has a lot of possibilities...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> It's a water distribution system inside a box full of electronics. What could possibly go wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...has a lot of possibilities...


Interesting that you saved the picture you posted and the following one 5 weeks ago.....
But choose to post the shadowed over version today









Spoiler: White SR2 MP






BUT yes they do have great potential









Edit - pic I took last night of the 280 MP


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> GO HABS GO! Update
> 
> build is done,
> we will give it to the kid on November 21
> i will post some pics and video of him receiving the computer ,
> 
> again i want to say a BIG Thanks you to everyone who help me on this one , believe me the Children will LOVE IT! a lot, im sure
> and want to say Thanks to Parvum System for the very great case, EK for water cooling stuff, Darkside and Moddingstylez for all modding goodies and led
> and for sure everyone who sent me hardware like Kennah fo APU, Nass for Motherboard, Bartacus for Power supply, Stéphane Omer Landry for the GPU and member of overcloqc.com
> 
> Thanks a lot to everyone
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


best feature of this build is that carey's pads actually look puck worn! the cherry on top would be his autograph on it...


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> best feature of this build is that carey's pads actually look puck worn! the cherry on top would be his autograph on it...


Funny because
The family of the kid and the organisms who ask me for the build try to get Carey to exactly do this


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*


That's a good suggestion. My GPU is too long so I am forced to do it like this.


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys while Im waiting on the rest of the pastel extreme line to come out, can I run my system with distilled and PT Nuke PHN for the time being?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

You'd even be fine with just distilled. I wouldn't actually even bother putting PT Nuke in; nothing will happen in the near term, and who knows if it's going to react with pastel or something like that... Although I think PHN is safer than Cu so no harm either way.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Interesting that you saved the picture you posted and the following one 5 weeks ago.....
> But choose to post the shadowed over version today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: White SR2 MP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT yes they do have great potential
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - pic I took last night of the 280 MP


Oh man! You stole my picture!!!!








I was responding to the CaseLabs rep who was responding to _alltheGHz_. The pictures are stock photos... I mean my hard work, sweat and tears!












In the spirit of my current project - these are the the two SR2-360-MPs I recently purchased for my current project. The EK box in the background is one of two XTX 480s I bought from a guy that gave up on a project. He never installed the radiators. I also picked up an XTX 360 from the same person. These are slated for pedestal #1 in my Merlin ST10; the XTX 480s in pedestal #2.


Hey! A foot!




I wish they came with the Dark Matter finish, but knew ahead of time they did not. That being said, I at least was hoping for the the finish to be more like this XSPC AX.



This is my slow progress with tubing, but at least it is progress!







I wanted to go with copper, but with the size of the case & pedestals along with the length of tubing runs for this project, it was cost prohibitive. Oh well, next time maybe.




I love the measuring kit I bought awhile back... Monsoon maybe? At any rate, after searching for a metric folding rule in my area with zero result (not terribly surprising), this popped up for sale. It has been worth every cent.

Thinking some Mayhems blue 









Project is coming together, so many things to consider.

It is nice to know, when it comes to nourishment, there is nothing to consider. Ice cream is life! Cherry vanilla and cheese cake ice cream with black cherries and I can power my way through a brainstorming session! enough good stuff in there to cure your ills, or kill you!


----------



## MIGhunter

Question about fittings.

I bought a 90 degree fitting and a rottery extension. The extension has male connectors on both ends. So should I buy a double female sided extension and and connect the 3 pieces together?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-nickel.html
Plus
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-12mm-f-f-g1-4-nickel.html
Plus
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-fitting-nickel.html

Or, is it better to just buy 1 50mm extension so that it's less connections?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-50mm-m-f-g1-4-nickel.html
Plus
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-fitting-nickel.html


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> You'd even be fine with just distilled. I wouldn't actually even bother putting PT Nuke in; nothing will happen in the near term, and who knows if it's going to react with pastel or something like that... Although I think PHN is safer than Cu so no harm either way.


So you think I should use PT Nuke PHN with distilled for now? I will flush all of it out once I get the pastel extreme.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> So you think I should use PT Nuke PHN with distilled for now? I will flush all of it out once I get the pastel extreme.


Get yourself a bottle of this...PrimoChill Liquid Utopia. I have been running it for 6+ months and no corrosion or algae growth. You only need ~ 1tsp per 1.3 Litres of distilled water (15mL per Gallon)


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> That's a good suggestion. My GPU is too long so I am forced to do it like this.


I don't think it's anything to actually worry about, but my 295 drove me nuts with sagging. I don't know if it happens during testing or it's only user error but the pcb can get warped on these because they are so long and heavy. I actually anchored mine to the sata connectors on the motherboard once I got a block for it and set it up straight, and it was still easy to see either the ram latches on the x79 board were out of alignment or the card was bent and there was no real fix for it that I could see outside of trying to "unbend" the pcb.

I've also managed to bend other cards, so maybe I'm just special that way









Edit: my 295 did actually die as well but again it's possible that was user error. msi took care of me so it was actually a good experience in the end.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I don't think it's anything to actually worry about, but my 295 drove me nuts with sagging. I don't know if it happens during testing or it's only user error but the pcb can get warped on these because they are so long and heavy. I actually anchored mine to the sata connectors on the motherboard once I got a block for it and set it up straight, and it was still easy to see either the ram latches on the x79 board were out of alignment or the card was bent and there was no real fix for it that I could see outside of trying to "unbend" the pcb.
> 
> I've also managed to bend other cards, so maybe I'm just special that way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: my 295 did actually die as well but again it's possible that was user error. msi took care of me so it was actually a good experience in the end.


that pic does make it look like it's sagging a lot. Looking at it, it doesn't look lie it's sagging. I wonder if it's the camera angle


----------



## MIGhunter

I have this spongie packing material that something I bought came in. Do you think it will work as a decoupler?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> I have this spongie packing material that something I bought came in. Do you think it will work as a decoupler?


It might be too soft.

If you want serious decoupling, get this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Washing-Machine-Universal-Anti-Vibration-Mat/dp/B00E0JVN7G

And cut to size









Or, depending on the base dimensions/square of the device (a pump i guess?) maybe one of these is big/large enough

http://www.amazon.co.uk/First4Spares-Anti-vibration-Washing-Machines-Absorbers/dp/B0146VD9H4/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=08D8Z4N8F3KSXA83WQ05


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> It might be too soft.
> 
> If you want serious decoupling, get this:
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Washing-Machine-Universal-Anti-Vibration-Mat/dp/B00E0JVN7G
> 
> And cut to size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or, depending on the base dimensions/square of the device (a pump i guess?) maybe one of these is big/large enough
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/First4Spares-Anti-vibration-Washing-Machines-Absorbers/dp/B0146VD9H4/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=08D8Z4N8F3KSXA83WQ05


I was just going to buy one of *THESE* until I realized I had that foam. Guess I'll still get one


----------



## Idef1x

A few shots of my new custom cables for my Hexgear R40. This was my first try at making custom cables, so I am quite pleased with the result. I must admit it was a bit more work than I had first anticipated












And a last shot of the case and where it will have its home:


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> A few shots of my new custom cables for my Hexgear R40. This was my first try at making custom cables, so I am quite pleased with the result. I must admit it was a bit more work than I had first anticipated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a last shot of the case and where it will have its home:


That's a very nice build. What I can see of the cables looks good.


----------



## sperson1

Man everytime i come in here to posted an updated photo of my PC i see these awesome builds and makes me think man i am so plain lol


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Man everytime i come in here to posted an updated photo of my PC i see these awesome builds and makes me think man i am so plain lol


yep yours is plain. does it work as intended keeping your hardware cool? is it leak free? plain is good. plain is cheap. have a looksie at both loops i built. plain works as good as pretty n fancy.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Man everytime i come in here to posted an updated photo of my PC i see these awesome builds and makes me think man i am so plain lol


Its clean, its neat and looks to work as intended... you have nothing to worry about.

Nice job!


----------



## sperson1

yeah it works it gets the job down! maybe one day i'll learn to do the fancy stuff this was my first water loop


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Man everytime i come in here to posted an updated photo of my PC i see these awesome builds and makes me think man i am so plain lol


Think about it this way some people never make the jump to water cooling nor have the knowledge or skill to build a loop you do and other do on this forum. Plain or complicated as long as it don't leak and keeps it cool it works. Yours looks Like a pretty good build.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Man everytime i come in here to posted an updated photo of my PC i see these awesome builds and makes me think man i am so plain lol


There is nothing wrong with your build. It looks good.


----------



## sperson1

Thanks for all the kind words guys


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Thanks for all the kind words guys


No, Thank you for having the Courage to Post your Build.

TCO


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Thanks for all the kind words guys


I like your build, it doesn't always have to be rigid tubing








Now if you would remove the protective foil over the EK logos i would like it even more


----------



## emsj86

A simple some what mod that would make a big difference. If your up for it. Is painting the fan rings the color of the fluid. But at the same time with red parts on the motherboard it goes as well with it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> I like your build, it doesn't always have to be rigid tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if you would remove the protective foil over the EK logos i would like it even more


Nice Catch.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Man everytime i come in here to posted an updated photo of my PC i see these awesome builds and makes me think man i am so plain lol


Now you are ready for the critical view....

The res....should of cleaned it first.

The return feed....should of gone to the top of the res and used a jet tube (My opinion only),it would cleaned the run up nicely.

And thats it.

A very competent, clean build, no fuss or drama. Good work and welcome to the Club.

In other news....










The build i did for the EK Vulture mod off,apparently it has a liking of red cabbage now and has moved to a better place.....in Croatia.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In other news....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The build i did for the EK Vulture mod off,apparently it has a liking of red cabbage now and has moved to a better place.....in Croatia.


Not sure what the red cabbage refers to, but that is very nice. It could have used a cable comb or two though.

I really like copper in a build, plated, painted, polished and coated, whatever!







Hopefully the wife will be accepting of a CaseLabs S8 with a short-ish copper run in spring 2016.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In other news....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The build i did for the EK Vulture mod off,apparently it has a liking of red cabbage now and has moved to a better place.....in Croatia.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what the red cabbage refers to, but that is very nice. It could have used a cable comb or two though.
> 
> I really like copper in a build, plated, painted, polished and coated, whatever!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully the wife will be accepting of a CaseLabs S8 with a short-ish copper run in spring 2016.
Click to expand...

Red cabbage is the potato of eastern Europe.

I dont go in for the regimented look to cables,I like them flowing or invisible.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Red cabbage is the potato of eastern Europe..


Interesting!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont go in for the regimented look to cables,I like them flowing or invisible.


What I meant to say and what I said were two different things entirely. I think today is a bad Monday on a Wednesday no less.









What I meant to say - If it were ME, I would have used a cable comb or two (as it is my preference to see them as structured part of a build). Not to say that YOU should have used them. My apologies for not competently conveying my meaning.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Red cabbage is the potato of eastern Europe..
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont go in for the regimented look to cables,I like them flowing or invisible.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What I meant to say and what I said were two different things entirely. I think today is a bad Monday on a Wednesday no less.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I meant to say - If it were ME, I would have used a cable comb or two (as it is my preference to see them as structured part of a build). Not to say that YOU should have used them. My apologies for not competently conveying my meaning.
Click to expand...

Either or.

Just giving my view on combs,I do use them to do the initial 'training' but I break them off afterwards.

I know OCN tends to rage over silly things....not here,I expect people to be able to express themselves according to their opinion,not an 'Everybody is a WINNAH!' mindset.
That just stifles creative but critical opinion,im not about that....neither are many of the regulars in here.

Express...not Repress.

Unless its Alphaco.....no,I wont say it......


----------



## sperson1

Is there a special way to clean out Res and also I thought about making the top a return but when i did my research it looks like the Photon Res the top is only as a fill line.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Is there a special way to clean out Res and also I thought about making the top a return but when i did my research it looks like the Photon Res the top is only as a fill line.


http://www.toysrus.com/buy/2-11-13-save-20-on-top-selling-munchkin/munchkin-bottle-and-nipple-brush-colors-vary-11036-10978303

And no,im not joking.

Wasnt there a run of bushes for fittings and the Photon? If not,just buy one.....

Although,is it worth it?


----------



## sperson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.toysrus.com/buy/2-11-13-save-20-on-top-selling-munchkin/munchkin-bottle-and-nipple-brush-colors-vary-11036-10978303
> 
> And no,im not joking.
> 
> Wasnt there a run of bushes for fittings and the Photon? If not,just buy one.....
> 
> Although,is it worth it?


I guess I need to find a way to take the res apart and your builds are amazing!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.toysrus.com/buy/2-11-13-save-20-on-top-selling-munchkin/munchkin-bottle-and-nipple-brush-colors-vary-11036-10978303
> 
> And no,im not joking.
> 
> Wasnt there a run of bushes for fittings and the Photon? If not,just buy one.....
> 
> Although,is it worth it?
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I need to find a way to take the res apart and your builds are amazing!
Click to expand...

You are too kind.

You did read the bit in the handbook stating i can be a bit of an arse right?


----------



## sperson1

Lol Yeah i just read it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are too kind.
> 
> *You did read the bit in the handbook stating i can be a bit of an arse right*?


Never. Just Honest. Some people don't like that.

TCO


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.toysrus.com/buy/2-11-13-save-20-on-top-selling-munchkin/munchkin-bottle-and-nipple-brush-colors-vary-11036-10978303
> 
> And no,im not joking.


+Rep for you.

I use a bottle washer as well!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> I guess I need to find a way to take the res apart and your builds are amazing!


Disassembling the XSPC Photon reservoirs is very simple. I could not find anyone who had done this and posted their findings previously.... So I proceeded to pull mine apart and take pics etc....

Photon disassembly: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/180#post_23814428

I also thought up a simple modification for the Photon which vastly improves its performance and flexibility. This may be right up your alley - You can read all about the mod here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/190#post_24003175

Some testing I carried out with a modified Photon in various orientations: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/200#post_24129437

Hope the above info helps.


----------



## sperson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Disassembling the XSPC Photon reservoirs is very simple. I could not find anyone who had done this and posted their findings previously.... So I proceeded to pull mine apart and take pics etc....
> 
> Photon disassembly: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/180#post_23814428
> 
> I also thought up a simple modification for the Photon which vastly improves its performance and flexibility. This may be right up your alley - You can read all about the mod here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/190#post_24003175
> 
> Some testing I carried out with a modified Photon in various orientations: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/200#post_24129437
> 
> Hope the above info helps.


Thank you for the information


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Disassembling the XSPC Photon reservoirs is very simple. I could not find anyone who had done this and posted their findings previously.... So I proceeded to pull mine apart and take pics etc....
> 
> Photon disassembly: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/180#post_23814428
> 
> I also thought up a simple modification for the Photon which vastly improves its performance and flexibility. This may be right up your alley - You can read all about the mod here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/190#post_24003175
> 
> Some testing I carried out with a modified Photon in various orientations: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/200#post_24129437
> 
> Hope the above info helps.


I only skimmed your posts in the links. Great info. This will be quite handy for a lot of owners. +rep'd


----------



## fast_fate

Spoiler: Your Best Avatar Yet


----------



## sperson1

I need to get me one for my computer


----------



## Domler

Still got a lot of work to do. Gonna fix the cpu out on the right. 90 fitting to 45 to 45 then rad. Lots of 45s. Gotta clean the crap out of it. Cable work. You know. This is my third build and I am stoked. I follow you guys everyday. I wanted to give you guys a preview because. I have poured all I got in this.

Why is there no bends? Mayhems glass. That beautiful glass. Just say it. Glass. Sounds cool.


----------



## alltheGHz

S5 or s3? I can't tell, but either way great job!


----------



## Domler

It's a s8


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> (EDIT: For some Reason I think this quote should read)
> 
> It's an s8


I congratulate you on using glass. Although I feel the runs could have been lined up a little different. You have Straight lines, Angled lines. There is a mix of Lines, in major Places.

I am sure your reasoning is justified. Just an observation and nothing else.

TCO


----------



## pc-illiterate

really tco? you think he should have spent more money on glass and fittings and time on cutting and lining up and possibly re-cutting causing more monetary loss to make all of the tubing runs straight?
sometimes i think people criticize just to criticize.

great looking build domler.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> really tco? you think he should have spent more money on glass and fittings and time on cutting and lining up and possibly re-cutting causing more monetary loss to make all of the tubing runs straight?
> sometimes i think people criticize just to criticize.
> 
> great looking build domler.


No PC. I think that he could have actually saved a couple dollars on fittings by making straighter lines.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

It's not always meant to be a negative more constructive. At the end of the day your build and your build. If it makes you happy that's all that matters. I for one like when people throw things out there as some of it will help me make my build better


----------



## USMC Modder

Got some work done on the new build. Sorry for the poor lighting. I was in my living room putting it together and it was dark by the time I took the photos.


----------



## Domler

Love the input guys. Hard to describe the cpu out. Its a dual loop. Cpu off the block is a 45 to a 90, I'm gonna put an 45 heading to the rad. My original thought was to minimize hard 90 and dual loop for aurora. I'll take a couple better pics tonight.

I love TCO, there is no hard feelings.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> S5 or s3? I can't tell, but either way great job!


You can tell by the fan mounting hole on the left front that's visible in the pic, that it has to be an S8.

That said, the SSI EBB mobo tray makes everything look extra crowded, like it was shorter, like an S3 looks with its atx tray . . . that could add a little confusion.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> (EDIT: For some Reason I think this quote should read)
> 
> It's an s8
> 
> 
> 
> I congratulate you on using glass. Although I feel the runs could have been lined up a little different. You have Straight lines, Angled lines. There is a mix of Lines, in major Places.
> 
> I am sure your reasoning is justified. Just an observation and nothing else.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Glass has to be somewhat unique to use, but really no different in layout than acrylic rigs with all fittings and no bends.

Dual loops in an S8 is definitely a challenge, but

I have to agree, too many oblique angles make it look overly busy.

Everyone has their own opinions about aesthetics, but when we post pics here, we have to expect that not everyone sees it the same way that we do, and not every comment is going to be gushing praise.

On another note;

My S8 just arrived this week, and I have the upper flex bay's window and lighted midplate pretty well mocked up.

I'm sure it won't be universally praised, but it's unique, I like it, (which is what ultimately counts) and no one else has done anything close.



]

Now I need to source some two way glass mirror locally, so I don't have to use window tint film that always eventually gets funky.

Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Love the input guys. Hard to describe the cpu out. Its a dual loop. Cpu off the block is a 45 to a 90, I'm gonna put an 45 heading to the rad. My original thought was to minimize hard 90 and dual loop for aurora. I'll take a couple better pics tonight.
> 
> *I love TCO, there is no hard feelings.*


Appreciate that. I guess me and Ole PC-Illiterate should go grab a cup of coffee or something.

The Loop you have is slick and unique. This is fact.

TCO


----------



## pc-illiterate

coffee sounds good but, you live way too damned far away to have a chit chat with. and how the hell do you know im old? who told? i wasnt expecting any hard feelings anywhere by anyone.

as the diva said, "Everyone has their own opinions about aesthetics, but when we post pics here, we have to expect that not everyone sees it the same way that we do, and not every comment is going to be gushing praise" and "I'm sure it won't be universally praised, but it's unique, I like it, (which is what ultimately counts)" --this is it. only the builder/owner has to be happy with the build.

my problem is everyone climbing on the positive praise wagon for the same builders consistently. never say anything bad no matter how plain or boring their builds get. never have anything negative or "constructive" to say except 1 comment on B-Neg's vulture build. high praise to that comment about the cable combs. everyone else deals with that negati, i mean "constructive" criticism. half of the people here are 1 tube away from telling people to do a complete teardown and start over. ive *****ed about it before and i will until people find the specialness of every build and the completion and success of every first build.
on top of that, some people dont care. they dont care what their loop looks like and they dont care what you think of it. have more than 3 of you looked at my loops? i doubt it because i didnt spend a million dollars. if more people than i think looked at my loops, no one said anything. i dont care. my 500r has an internal rad box that i built from scratch. no one else does this. they use the basement of a case that already has radiator support. i shoved 1080 worth of rad space in a case that few people buy and fewer water cool in and even fewer mod for an extreme amount of radiators. i used cheap parts. but that 500r was my first build. the ds6 is a move over with an additional radiator. i think i did a pretty damned good job. i think the rest of these guys did a pretty damned good job.

im just tired of all the same negativity on almost every build. 90% of all the builds that get praised look like every other build. the other 10% either look great or are totally off the wall awesome.

/rant off and hoping the forums get better for me


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm all for real constructive criticism, as it's the only way to help and improve someone on their build. Just being flat-out negative w/ no ground for what one could do to improve on their current abilities and current supplies at their disposal, might as well be talking to a wall since it's not helping anyone if not turning people away.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> coffee sounds good but, you live way too damned far away to have a chit chat with. and how the hell do you know im old? who told? i wasnt expecting any hard feelings anywhere by anyone.
> 
> as the diva said, "Everyone has their own opinions about aesthetics, but when we post pics here, we have to expect that not everyone sees it the same way that we do, and not every comment is going to be gushing praise" and "I'm sure it won't be universally praised, but it's unique, I like it, (which is what ultimately counts)" --this is it. only the builder/owner has to be happy with the build.
> 
> my problem is everyone climbing on the positive praise wagon for the same builders consistently. never say anything bad no matter how plain or boring their builds get. never have anything negative or "constructive" to say except 1 comment on B-Neg's vulture build. high praise to that comment about the cable combs. everyone else deals with that negati, i mean "constructive" criticism. half of the people here are 1 tube away from telling people to do a complete teardown and start over. ive *****ed about it before and i will until people find the specialness of every build and the completion and success of every first build.
> on top of that, some people dont care. they dont care what their loop looks like and they dont care what you think of it. have more than 3 of you looked at my loops? i doubt it because i didnt spend a million dollars. if more people than i think looked at my loops, no one said anything. i dont care. my 500r has an internal rad box that i built from scratch. no one else does this. they use the basement of a case that already has radiator support. i shoved 1080 worth of rad space in a case that few people buy and fewer water cool in and even fewer mod for an extreme amount of radiators. i used cheap parts. but that 500r was my first build. the ds6 is a move over with an additional radiator. i think i did a pretty damned good job. i think the rest of these guys did a pretty damned good job.
> 
> 
> 
> im just tired of all the same negativity on almost every build. 90% of all the builds that get praised look like every other build. the other 10% either look great or are totally off the wall awesome.
> 
> /rant off and hoping the forums get better for me


Ole was just an expression. There are no hard feelings.

I remember when I first started on the forum and you were here more often than not, you became frustrated shortly after, then vanished for quite some time. Glad your Back. You and I need not bump heads, there is no reason. The Concept of watercooling is just that: To cool computer parts with liquid instead of an air based system.

Hence the Possibilities are endless. Some look great, some not so great. There are negative comments, and there are constructive comments. The Builder can take them negative, or they can take them into consideration on the next possible build.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Some negative comments can be constructive too. But that's on the person posting them to word them correctly so as not to offend. Or they should at least follow up with their meaning later.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

TCO & BNeg have gotten a fair share of Negative/Constructive comments and questions from me, lol (but I never mean to be fully negative towards someone's build as it is just that, their build) As long as I can see where/what they are trying to achieve it definitely makes it easier to critique one's work, even if on my own builds I may fall short of some member's build qualities/capabilities (ie: SNef & BNeg, imho, tend to put out a professional style of work and wont settle for anything less). I would love to be on a professional level of building, but it takes time and alot of it (lately my family has been and will always be priority #1) which I haven't made since my move to MA back in late Sept. I see alot of issues w/ my JAC that I want and need to fix/complete (the last acrylic run from the res's return feed to the rear/other side of my M8 that I've been putting off) as well as a looong list of other things that other's have been awesome in giving me insight on tweaking/doing.


----------



## OverSightX

Update to mine:

Switched out a 290 for this 980 ti Hydro.

Comparison:

290:

980 ti

Slightly different tbe configuration.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> S5 or s3? I can't tell, but either way great job!
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell by the fan mounting hole on the left front that's visible in the pic, that it has to be an S8.
> 
> That said, the SSI EBB mobo tray makes everything look extra crowded, like it was shorter, like an S3 looks with its atx tray . . . that could add a little confusion.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> (EDIT: For some Reason I think this quote should read)
> 
> It's an s8
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I congratulate you on using glass. Although I feel the runs could have been lined up a little different. You have Straight lines, Angled lines. There is a mix of Lines, in major Places.
> 
> I am sure your reasoning is justified. Just an observation and nothing else.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Glass has to be somewhat unique to use, but really no different in layout than acrylic rigs with all fittings and no bends.
> 
> Dual loops in an S8 is definitely a challenge, but
> 
> I have to agree, too many oblique angles make it look overly busy.
> 
> 
> *Everyone has their own opinions about aesthetics, but when we post pics here, we have to expect that not everyone sees it the same way that we do, and not every comment is going to be gushing praise.
> *
> 
> On another note;
> 
> My S8 just arrived this week, and I have the upper flex bay's window and lighted midplate pretty well mocked up.
> 
> I'm sure it won't be universally praised, but it's unique, I like it, (*which is what ultimately counts*) and no one else has done anything close.
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> Now I need to source some two way glass mirror locally, so I don't have to use window tint film that always eventually gets funky.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

D gets it.

You have a thing for those infinity mirrors dont you? Certainly one of your best mods... in my eyes anyway....

And you need to start making your own res and bits now D,not like you cant or dont have the skills.....Step it up,we old'uns still have to keep 'skooling dem yout'.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> coffee sounds good but, you live way too damned far away to have a chit chat with. and how the hell do you know im old? who told? i wasnt expecting any hard feelings anywhere by anyone.
> 
> as the diva said, "Everyone has their own opinions about aesthetics, but when we post pics here, we have to expect that not everyone sees it the same way that we do, and not every comment is going to be gushing praise" and "I'm sure it won't be universally praised, but it's unique, I like it, (which is what ultimately counts)" --this is it. only the builder/owner has to be happy with the build.
> 
> my problem is everyone climbing on the positive praise wagon for the same builders consistently. never say anything bad no matter how plain or boring their builds get. never have anything negative or "constructive" to say except 1 comment on B-Neg's vulture build. *high praise to that comment about the cable combs*. everyone else deals with that negati, i mean "constructive" criticism. half of the people here are 1 tube away from telling people to do a complete teardown and start over. ive *****ed about it before and i will until people find the specialness of every build and the completion and success of every first build.
> on top of that, some people dont care. they dont care what their loop looks like and they dont care what you think of it. have more than 3 of you looked at my loops? i doubt it because i didnt spend a million dollars. if more people than i think looked at my loops, no one said anything. i dont care. my 500r has an internal rad box that i built from scratch. no one else does this. they use the basement of a case that already has radiator support. i shoved 1080 worth of rad space in a case that few people buy and fewer water cool in and even fewer mod for an extreme amount of radiators. i used cheap parts. but that 500r was my first build. the ds6 is a move over with an additional radiator. i think i did a pretty damned good job. i think the rest of these guys did a pretty damned good job.
> 
> im just tired of all the same negativity on almost every build. 90% of all the builds that get praised look like every other build. the other 10% either look great or are totally off the wall awesome.
> 
> /rant off and hoping the forums get better for me


Indeed,we need more constructive critique and less primadonna nonsense.

I have already angered a few 'high profile builders' here with critique,all (mostly.....some) aimed at pushing them on. I would never intentionally slate a newbie's (hateful term) pride and joy. Only established builders/modders/whatevers get the heavy scrutiny.......

And why not? I expect it. So should they. Instead of having a hissy fit,how about they just address the damn comment?

But Ego's need constant feeding and attention.......like Magoo.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Some negative comments can be constructive too. But that's on the person posting them to word them correctly so as not to offend. Or they should at least follow up with their meaning later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


exactly this.
i dont remember who it was that made a jig to do multiple bends in acrylic that works exceptionally well. others were having problems and some were just telling to fix it cause it looks like crap. the dude comes and shows what he did to make 250 different 90* bends in the same piece of acrylic tube and acrylic builds started looking even better.
no worries. im a mess and so is the forum. we both shall forever be.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Some negative comments can be constructive too. But that's on the person posting them to word them correctly so as not to offend. Or they should at least follow up with their meaning later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> exactly this.
> i dont remember who it was that made a jig to do multiple bends in acrylic that works exceptionally well. others were having problems and some were just telling to fix it cause it looks like crap. the dude comes and shows what he did to make 250 different 90* bends in the same piece of acrylic tube and acrylic builds started looking even better.
> no worries. im a mess and so is the forum. we both shall forever be.
Click to expand...

Not Slinky then?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not Slinky then?


why you do dis? you want hims to shows up?
get rid of the sticker branding everywhere and its a solid build with too much neon for some people. he obviously liked or loved it. so much so that he asked 5x what the build was worth. more power to the freak amazing worm-man.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Got some work done on the new build. Sorry for the poor lighting. I was in my living room putting it together and it was dark by the time I took the photos.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good so far!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Still got a lot of work to do. Gonna fix the cpu out on the right. 90 fitting to 45 to 45 then rad. Lots of 45s. Gotta clean the crap out of it. Cable work. You know. This is my third build and I am stoked. I follow you guys everyday. I wanted to give you guys a preview because. I have poured all I got in this.
> 
> Why is there no bends? Mayhems glass. That beautiful glass. Just say it. Glass. Sounds cool.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A braver man than myself! It looks good! Kudos for the glass work.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My S8 just arrived this week, and I have the upper flex bay's window and lighted midplate pretty well mocked up.
> I'm sure it won't be universally praised, but it's unique, I like it, (which is what ultimately counts) and no one else has done anything close.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to source some two way glass mirror locally, so I don't have to use window tint film that always eventually gets funky.
> 
> Darlene


I like it!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> TCO & BNeg have gotten a fair share of Negative/Constructive comments and questions from me, lol (but I never mean to be fully negative towards someone's build as it is just that, their build) As long as I can see where/what they are trying to achieve it definitely makes it easier to critique one's work, even if on my own builds I may fall short of some member's build qualities/capabilities (ie: SNef & BNeg, imho, tend to put out a professional style of work and wont settle for anything less).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to be on a professional level of building, but it takes time and alot of it (lately my family has been and will always be priority #1) which I haven't made since my move to MA back in late Sept. I see alot of issues w/ my JAC that I want and need to fix/complete (the last acrylic run from the res's return feed to the rear/other side of my M8 that I've been putting off) as well as a looong list of other things that other's have been awesome in giving me insight on tweaking/doing.


I just wasn't afraid to tell or show people in my logs or in the Watercooling thread what I did right, or completely wrong. I can't tell you how many towels I used around the house, whole rolls of paper towels, to sop up all of the liquid that has leaked, sprayed or just plain fell out of some of my rigs.

I personally loved how I drained a complete loop, fixed what I needed to be fixed, then forgot to close the Drain Plug and Didn't realize until about 1/4 Gallon of Distilled was on the Ground..... Again....









That's the best part about them.

Asking yourself.... how did I miss this? Ok well... How about I give this another Go around and fix it.

Next Question is: How can I show people what not to do? Because that was not efficient.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Not Slinky then?[/quot*e]
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> *why you do dis? you want hims to shows up?*
> get rid of the sticker branding everywhere and its a solid build with too much neon for some people. he obviously liked or loved it. so much so that he asked 5x what the build was worth. more power to the freak amazing worm-man.
> 
> 
> 
> No please....I don´t want to discuss again that PWM pumps are voltage regulated....
> 
> BTW I agree with fast fate. Your best avatar B. so far.
> 
> For those shopping for fans I just notice PPC and Dazmode are now carrying all blacks PWM GTs 550-1850 rpm for about 20 bucks. Modmytoys is also selling custom painted versions but the all blacks come straight from Nidec that way.
Click to expand...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not Slinky then?
> 
> 
> 
> why you do dis? you want hims to shows up?
> get rid of the sticker branding everywhere and its a solid build with too much neon for some people. he obviously liked or loved it. so much so that he asked 5x what the build was worth. more power to the freak amazing worm-man.
Click to expand...

He only comes when you say his name 3 times.....

The only thing I liked,and I really did like,was the Ram blocks being used to cool the pumps....that was clever. The rest? Generic.


----------



## VSG

I liked how he came up with blocks for new products using EK parts befor EK themselves, but yeah let's leave it at that


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I liked how he came up with blocks for new products using EK parts befor EK themselves, but yeah let's leave it at that


Who's build are you guys talking about?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I liked how he came up with blocks for new products using EK parts befor EK themselves, but yeah let's leave it at that


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Who's build are you guys talking about?


Don't do it..... This is unspoken territory.

TCO


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I just wasn't afraid to tell or show people in my logs or in the Watercooling thread what I did right, or completely wrong. I can't tell you how many towels I used around the house, whole rolls of paper towels, to sop up all of the liquid that has leaked, sprayed or just plain fell out of some of my rigs.


I have overfilled the funnel and poured water on my head more than once. Then I learned to take the build off the kitchen counter before filling.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Off topic but I must ask it!

I spoke with a member of the forums after not seeing him for quite some time. It instantly made me remember another who has been missing for 6 months.
Is anyone real life friends with Unicr0nhunter? Does anyone have any clue what-so-ever is going on with him? I hate to think the worst but as active on the forums as he was, his disappearance is disheartening. I've interacted with quite a few of you over the years and to some people like me, some of you are the only constant in life. It's like losing a family member. Get a hacker friend to find out who he is and where the hell he went!


----------



## fast_fate

XSPC have up-sized the ever popular AX series to now include 140mm flavors.
Should appear at your favorite outlet any day now


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Who's build are you guys talking about?


He was/is an odd individual. Had more money than he knew what to do with and built an extra gaudy pc with at the time high end components. Came on here a couple of times claiming copyright infringement for re-posting pictures of his build.

THe ram heatsinks as 4 ddc pump coolers was an interesting idea, couldn't really see it to well behind all the green, uv, stickers, and chrome skull.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> XSPC have up-sized the ever popular AX series to now include 140mm flavors.
> Should appear at your favorite outlet any day now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dem be pretties....









How's quality on those compared to ek's? The frame itself looks really thick.


----------



## Domler

Its all good. I've been water cooling for 10 months now. I want to learn as much as I can. I don't post a lot cause I suck at spelling and it take forever to type. I actually sat there wondering , a s8 or an s8, before I typed it.







so the gpu side door is the smaller window solid door. I took a piece of acrylic and cut it to fit, covered with black vynil. Had an idea if someone could cut a desighn in vynil, than lay it over the custom white acrylic piece as a backdrop might be cool. But I'm not creative enough to think of a design. aslo thought abought covering the basement with acrylic and go full window. The problem is that I just started building and fell head over heels in love with watercooling. I haven't fully finished my builds yet. I'm always on to the next thing. What else can I learn. Ohh, lets do that. I hate having add, it can get expensive quick. I can say I flipped this build over to e22, new ress, new pumps, dual loop, drains, rads, custom cuts screws, yada yada, over this past weekend. Wednesday, I said to hell with it. I got glass, use the acrylic as a guide for size on the glass. figured its already measured. It will take an hour. 7 hours later, the glass is 98% done. enough till I get the two new pieces, then its 100% glass. 7 hours of scoring, breaking, sanding. if it broke clean, it took 20 sec to sand. If it wasn't a clean break, 20 mins. plus first time using, had to get that feel for it. 220 grit wet dry. my arms are soar. But when I was done, I was proud. iam excited to get my first custom cables. I like what B said about the cable ties. not a big fan on how they look, but like the clean lines, tried cable sewing with fishing line. That took forever to do. I'm gonna cut mine off when the cables are trained. Keep on building guys.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Off topic but I must ask it!
> 
> I spoke with a member of the forums after not seeing him for quite some time. It instantly made me remember another who has been missing for 6 months.
> Is anyone real life friends with Unicr0nhunter? Does anyone have any clue what-so-ever is going on with him? I hate to think the worst but as active on the forums as he was, his disappearance is disheartening. I've interacted with quite a few of you over the years and to some people like me, some of you are the only constant in life. It's like losing a family member. Get a hacker friend to find out who he is and where the hell he went!


Yep. I have been expecting @Unicr0nhunter to come back at some point but so far nothing. Last I heard he was going to be testing fans and was preparing to do that. I hope he is doing well and will come back at some point in the future.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.toysrus.com/buy/2-11-13-save-20-on-top-selling-munchkin/munchkin-bottle-and-nipple-brush-colors-vary-11036-10978303
> 
> And no,im not joking.


Is this something you are supposed to do with new rads? I thought you just flushed them with Warm water. I did that with my EK rads and nothing but clean water came out. Figured I was good. This is from reading either in this thread or the EK thread about flushing. The EK rep had said they flushed them out to get rid of the solder residue and that's why they usually flush clean.


----------



## MIGhunter

Anyone ever have this problem? Ordered from performance PC. I'm sure items USPS issue. It's been flipping between in transit, Saturday delivery and already delivered on thursday...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Is this something you are supposed to do with new rads? I thought you just flushed them with Warm water. I did that with my EK rads and nothing but clean water came out. Figured I was good. This is from reading either in this thread or the EK thread about flushing. The EK rep had said they flushed them out to get rid of the solder residue and that's why they usually flush clean.


The nipple thingy is for... cleaning a reservoir. Well really it's the brush that is for reservoirs but the nipple comes with it and it's useful for all kinds of things.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Dem be pretties....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's quality on those compared to ek's? The frame itself looks really thick.


XSPC AX casing is 3mm thick aluminum and makes the whole unit very rigid, feels very solid.
AX is slightly longer by ~11mm, and is slightly thinner at 40mm vs. the EK CE which is 45mm.
Quality is excellent - just flushed and was virtually particle free, cleanest I have seen in a very long time.
The white paint finish is still a creamy white though, not sure why they persist with the slightly off-white colour instead of a bright white..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Is this something you are supposed to do with new rads? I thought you just flushed them with Warm water. I did that with my EK rads and nothing but clean water came out. Figured I was good. This is from reading either in this thread or the EK thread about flushing. The EK rep had said they flushed them out to get rid of the solder residue and that's why they usually flush clean.


Warm/Hot water flushing is usually not enough unfortunately, but how much extra work needed seems to depend largely on the manufacturer and even some batches are better/worse than others.
The flushing generally does not remove particles and is more to remove excess water soluble flux from the assembly process.
To remove particles - however they got in there is best done by the time honored Shake-A Rad dance.
I do this with tap water, 2/3 fill the rad and cap off, shake like there is no tomorrow for 30 seconds and drain into a bowl so you can see how much crud is coming out (or not)
Depending on brand, 2 or 3 shake ups may be all that is required before minimal amount of particles are coming out, but may need 10 or more if really bad to begin with.
Once satisfied that no more particles are coming out.. repeat the shaking with clean distilled 2 more times.
Should now be clean and ready to go.
If intending to use Pastel coolant, it is worth checking the Ph of the very last flush, as you may need to adjust to a neutral Ph level.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Dem be pretties....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's quality on those compared to ek's? The frame itself looks really thick.
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC AX casing is 3mm thick aluminum and makes the whole unit very rigid, feels very solid.
> AX is slightly longer by ~11mm, and is slightly thinner at 40mm vs. the EK CE which is 45mm.
> Quality is excellent - just flushed and was virtually particle free, cleanest I have seen in a very long time.
> 
> 
> 
> The white paint finish is still a creamy white though, not sure why they persist with the slightly off-white colour instead of a bright white..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Is this something you are supposed to do with new rads? I thought you just flushed them with Warm water. I did that with my EK rads and nothing but clean water came out. Figured I was good. This is from reading either in this thread or the EK thread about flushing. The EK rep had said they flushed them out to get rid of the solder residue and that's why they usually flush clean.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Warm/Hot water flushing is usually not enough unfortunately, but how much extra work needed seems to depend largely on the manufacturer and even some batches are better/worse than others.
> The flushing generally does not remove particles and is more to remove excess water soluble flux from the assembly process.
> To remove particles - however they got in there is best done by the time honored Shake-A Rad dance.
> I do this with tap water, 2/3 fill the rad and cap off, shake like there is no tomorrow for 30 seconds and drain into a bowl so you can see how much crud is coming out (or not)
> Depending on brand, 2 or 3 shake ups may be all that is required before minimal amount of particles are coming out, but may need 10 or more if really bad to begin with.
> Once satisfied that no more particles are coming out.. repeat the shaking with clean distilled 2 more times.
> Should now be clean and ready to go.
> If intending to use Pastel coolant, it is worth checking the Ph of the very last flush, as you may need to adjust to a neutral Ph level.
Click to expand...

becuz XSPC are pommies , its what they do: cream white walls everywhere, beige furniture & leisure suits, and carpet in the bathroom









As for rad-dance.. indeed: hot water with a gush of white vinegar or a half teaspoon citric acid and shake & repeat depending on brand & batch


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Anyone ever have this problem? Ordered from performance PC. I'm sure items USPS issue. It's been flipping between in transit, Saturday delivery and already delivered on thursday...


This has happened to the last couple orders placed with PPCS, but has nothing to do with them. It's the USPS. Since neither the wife or I have had no problem tracking post from elsewhere, I am assuming the issue is with USPS distribution in that area.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Dem be pretties....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's quality on those compared to ek's? The frame itself looks really thick.
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC AX casing is 3mm thick aluminum and makes the whole unit very rigid, feels very solid.
> AX is slightly longer by ~11mm, and is slightly thinner at 40mm vs. the EK CE which is 45mm.
> Quality is excellent - just flushed and was virtually particle free, cleanest I have seen in a very long time.
> 
> 
> 
> The white paint finish is still a creamy white though, not sure why they persist with the slightly off-white colour instead of a bright white..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Is this something you are supposed to do with new rads? I thought you just flushed them with Warm water. I did that with my EK rads and nothing but clean water came out. Figured I was good. This is from reading either in this thread or the EK thread about flushing. The EK rep had said they flushed them out to get rid of the solder residue and that's why they usually flush clean.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Warm/Hot water flushing is usually not enough unfortunately, but how much extra work needed seems to depend largely on the manufacturer and even some batches are better/worse than others.
> The flushing generally does not remove particles and is more to remove excess water soluble flux from the assembly process.
> To remove particles - however they got in there is best done by the time honored Shake-A Rad dance.
> I do this with tap water, 2/3 fill the rad and cap off, shake like there is no tomorrow for 30 seconds and drain into a bowl so you can see how much crud is coming out (or not)
> Depending on brand, 2 or 3 shake ups may be all that is required before minimal amount of particles are coming out, but may need 10 or more if really bad to begin with.
> Once satisfied that no more particles are coming out.. repeat the shaking with clean distilled 2 more times.
> Should now be clean and ready to go.
> If intending to use Pastel coolant, it is worth checking the Ph of the very last flush, as you may need to adjust to a neutral Ph level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> becuz XSPC are pommies , its what they do: cream white walls everywhere, beige furniture & leisure suits, and carpet in the bathroom
Click to expand...

You have obviously not been to the UK.......


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have obviously not been to the UK.......


Not been back since 2007, no


----------



## sinnedone

@fast_fate

Thanks for that bit of info. Might make those my next set of rads.


----------



## MIGhunter

Ok, good people, I need some suggestions. (I should have gone acrylic, would have been same cost at this point) I was test fitting tubing and I don't like how it sits and bends. What do you guys suggest? I was thinking of just adding 45 degree fittings pretty much everywhere except the bottom of the front rad because I have a 90 degree there. What do you guys think?



Flow is this


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Ok, good people, I need some suggestions. (I should have gone acrylic, would have been same cost at this point) I was test fitting tubing and I don't like how it sits and bends. What do you guys suggest? I was thinking of just adding 45 degree fittings pretty much everywhere except the bottom of the front rad because I have a 90 degree there. What do you guys think?


Angle adapters can help make it look a lot better.

- I would use 90 degrees on the gpu bottom port & 45 degrees on the pump (for gpu to pump run)
- For cpu to top rad run, 90 degrees on the cpu. You might want a male to female extender too though, for extending the 90 degrees adapter.


----------



## sinnedone

I'd say find a way to mount the pump higher and right underneath the reservoir with a 90 on the gpu to keep that run from sitting on top of the psu. A couple of angles on top rad/cpu and cut tubing short enough for it to be nice and taught.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Anyone ever have this problem? Ordered from performance PC. I'm sure items USPS issue. It's been flipping between in transit, Saturday delivery and already delivered on thursday...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> This has happened to the last couple orders placed with PPCS, but has nothing to do with them. It's the USPS. Since neither the wife or I have had no problem tracking post from elsewhere, I am assuming the issue is with USPS distribution in that area.


Yes, I can confirm this as well. I've had it happen to me a couple of months ago, ordered on Monday>USPS tracking shows it out for delivery on Tuesday>I almost spill my coffee in my lap when checking track> then tracking shows it in Florida later in the day. I called their PO and it was a screw up from USPS. What are you gonna do, you can't have cheap and quality in the same package (unless we're talking about ......... Alphacool....... :runs for cover)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Ok, good people, I need some suggestions. (I should have gone acrylic, would have been same cost at this point) I was test fitting tubing and I don't like how it sits and bends. What do you guys suggest? I was thinking of just adding 45 degree fittings pretty much everywhere except the bottom of the front rad because I have a 90 degree there. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flow is this


Couple ideas that come to mind, provided that;

1) the top rad can be turned so that the fittings are at the rear, and that;

2) the res can attach to the pump with a male to male, (preferably rotary) and sit on the bottom without the isolator below the GPU,

If so:

I'd turn the top rad fittings to the rear,

Flip the front rad, fittings to the top, (it'll also bleed a lot easier)

Put the pump on the bottom, closer to the front rad with no fittings in the way

Run out of the CPU to the top rad, (may help with a 45 on the CPU)

Out of the top rad with a horizontal run to the front rad, (you'll need a 90 out of the top rad to the front rad and a 45 into the top rad from the CPU)

Use a top port on the res for the return from the front rad, (likely you'll want a 90 on the top of the res)

Use a 30* or 45* coming out of the pump to the GPU

Alternatively,

On the pump to GPU, you could use a 90 facing up on the pump outlet and a 90 facing forward on the GPU inlet so the tubing has 1 curve and all the runs are horizontal or vertical

Just thinking out loud,

Darlene


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Angle adapters can help make it look a lot better.
> 
> - I would use 90 degrees on the gpu bottom port & 45 degrees on the pump (for gpu to pump run)
> - For cpu to top rad run, 90 degrees on the cpu. You might want a male to female extender too though, for extending the 90 degrees adapter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'd say find a way to mount the pump higher and right underneath the reservoir with a 90 on the gpu to keep that run from sitting on top of the psu. A couple of angles on top rad/cpu and cut tubing short enough for it to be nice and taught.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Couple ideas that come to mind, provided that;
> 
> 1) the top rad can be turned so that the fittings are at the rear, and that;
> 
> 2) the res can attach to the pump with a male to male, (preferably rotary) and sit on the bottom without the isolator below the GPU,
> 
> If so:
> 
> I'd turn the top rad fittings to the rear,
> 
> Flip the front rad, fittings to the top, (it'll also bleed a lot easier)
> 
> Put the pump on the bottom, closer to the front rad with no fittings in the way
> 
> Run out of the CPU to the top rad, (may help with a 45 on the CPU)
> 
> Out of the top rad with a horizontal run to the front rad, (you'll need a 90 out of the top rad to the front rad and a 45 into the top rad from the CPU)
> 
> Use a top port on the res for the return from the front rad, (likely you'll want a 90 on the top of the res)
> 
> Use a 30* or 45* coming out of the pump to the GPU
> 
> Alternatively,
> 
> On the pump to GPU, you could use a 90 facing up on the pump outlet and a 90 facing forward on the GPU inlet so the tubing has 1 curve and all the runs are horizontal or vertical
> 
> Just thinking out loud,
> 
> Darlene


All great ideas. My main issue is that the GPU is too long. I have no choice but to mount the Res above it like it is. The res is too long with the pump under it to fit under the GPU. The only other place I could put the res is over the PSU in that little spot next to the expansion bays but I'd have to mod the case and rework just about everything. So, I'm just stuck with that spot for the res.

I was thinking about 90 degree angles for the pump to gpu run but if I went out of the pump vertically up, then a right angle over to the gpu and then vertical again, won't it be floppy?


Also, what's better, 90 degree fittings or those double 45 degree fittings? How big are they? Does anyone have a side by side of the 2 for comparison?


----------



## DarthBaggins

What about just a 60 or 45 off the pump so you don't have to bend a 90 over the PSU?


----------



## sinnedone

Ok so how about this, turn the pump around and fire it into the front rad and flip the rop rad. So order would be res>pump>front rad>gpu>top rad>cpu>top res.

It would at least take that long top run and put it on the bottom of the case and mostly out of sight.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Anyone ever have this problem? Ordered from performance PC. I'm sure items USPS issue. It's been flipping between in transit, Saturday delivery and already delivered on thursday...


That's normal for USPS. One time my package arrived with box cut open and coolant missing. Couple months ago, my 5960X deviled to the WRONG house, even the address is correct and never changed. Thanks god Amazon refund me for the CPU.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Anyone ever have this problem? Ordered from performance PC. I'm sure items USPS issue. It's been flipping between in transit, Saturday delivery and already delivered on thursday...


Chances are it will be there today. When It snows in Virginia the mail man marks it as delivered or undeliverable as addressed (this is the best one considering I have been in the same place for years). Then it magically shows up the next day.


----------



## MIGhunter

Tell me if you guys think this would work?



1 = 90 degree fittings
2 = 45 degree fittings
3 = 90 degree vertical up, extention, 90 degree horizontal left.


----------



## fast_fate

Need more fittings








What a controversy this will cause...too many fittings, and none of them match, pieces of bent acrylic. oh dear








Never mind the chunk of acrylic - that certainly won't be used for a machined out manifold, or will it


----------



## alltheGHz

Holy smokes fast, well done!

Was the mixing of the color of the tubing, fittings etc on purpose?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Need more fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a controversy this will cause...too many fittings, and none of them match, pieces of bent acrylic. oh dear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never mind the chunk of acrylic - that certainly won't be used for a machined out manifold, or will it


It's interesting to say the least.

First off, needs more fittings, lose the tubing pieces. I am a HUGE fan of the stealth wiring job... amazing! Like it's not even there!









I like the idea of the stop block at the end. Afterall, when you slide that filing cabinet drawer shut, you never know if the whole thing will slide into the cabinet wall, dislodge a fitting and become a semi-contained sprinkler system.









Is that pipe sticking up a bleed vent or fill port?


----------



## emsj86

I have sp120 fans right now I was thinking of switching to ek vadar, the new gt pwm all black or what i really like is the nb loops. But i heard before that the nb loops have issues with mounting. So my question is , what our th epros and cons of these fans and will it even make a difference as i run my fans 800 idle and 1800 full load. Just after seeing post of people with there temps i feel with 60mm thick 480 and 360 rad that full load 4790k 1.3v 4.8 74 hottest core is not impressive. thanks


----------



## Domler

@emsj86I am using nactua industrial 2000 rpm hooked to a swiftech pwm fan splitter. They run at 650rpm off the cpu fan header. At 650rpm there silent and throu some air. 4790k 1.28v 4.7ghz 360 sr2. Hotest core hits 60. I might crank them up and see what the difference in temp is. I have tried sp120, phantex, bitfenix spectre pro, aerocool,all sound loud compared to the nactua. Wanted to try gt and the vardars, can't speak about them. But I sure do love my nactuas.

I got some cleaning to do and figure out wether to get an extended roof or put my full window top with no window in and let them stick out just a touch. Either way that's two feet from my head open to the world and they are quiet.


----------



## wermad

Has anyone had successfully used acrylic tube with threaded g1/4??? I just found three tubes of 1/2x3/4 I bought a while ago after watching the mod-zoo vid. I had a go at it and after a few tries, got some pretty good and strong threads. I'm using a ratchet spanner to give me some strength. Seems like driving about 1" of threads and then just cutting it may work. I'll have to further explore this on my next day off. Tube is ~$8 for 6' at eplastics (10 minute drive from my home).





Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Need more fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a controversy this will cause...too many fittings, and none of them match, pieces of bent acrylic. oh dear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never mind the chunk of acrylic - that certainly won't be used for a machined out manifold, or will it


----------



## Ceadderman

Stay far away from the ET male male rotaries Werm. I have one and it corroded. It may have been a factory defect in the finish. But I wasn't overly impressed by it.

Of course that could've been my fault for leaving my loop together after draining too. But I had other ET rotaries in my loop (45s) and not a single one of those corroded. So yeah I hafta say it was the quality and not user mistake that led to the corrosion.



Slight hint of rust between the barrels... :rolleys:





The threads are white due to silicon tape. I know for sure. But being a veteran silicon tape user I don't let it get into the flow chamber so the white stuff on the ends is corrosion and not left over remnants of tape.

So if you plan to do this type of setup, go with XSPC or better still go with BP if they have male male rotaries.









+Rep for the info however. Now I know which version of Tap I need to see if I can get it locally. Found a 6-32 tap at NAPA (of all places) and now I will see if they can get me the G1/4 tap I had been having a tough time having them source.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Has anyone had *successfully* used acrylic tube with threaded g1/4??? I just found three tubes of 1/2x3/4 I bought a while ago after watching the mod-zoo vid. I had a go at it and after a few tries, got some pretty good and strong threads. I'm using a ratchet spanner to give me some strength. Seems like driving about 1" of threads and then just cutting it may work. I'll have to further explore this on my next day off. Tube is ~$8 for 6' at eplastics (10 minute drive from my home).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Need more fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a controversy this will cause...too many fittings, and none of them match, pieces of bent acrylic. oh dear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never mind the chunk of acrylic - that certainly won't be used for a machined out manifold, or will it
Click to expand...

Not that im aware of,cracking is almost guaranteed. Fast Fate did it with properly machined/threaded parts and it pretty much all broke.

Speak to him about it.


----------



## derickwm

Got fittings?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Has anyone had successfully used acrylic tube with threaded g1/4??? I just found three tubes of 1/2x3/4 I bought a while ago after watching the mod-zoo vid. I had a go at it and after a few tries, got some pretty good and strong threads.


Actually, probably the worst thing you can do is to thread the acrylic tube on the inside.

Acrylic is quite weak when being placed under expansion type stresses and will eventually fracture. It is way better when utilised in compression type applications.

It is the reason EK moved away from internally threaded res tubes to having their reservoirs threaded on the outside of the tube so when screwing their end caps on it places the acrylic under compression rather than expansion forces.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Stay far away from the ET male male rotaries Werm. I have one and it corroded. It may have been a factory defect in the finish. But I wasn't overly impressed by it.
> 
> Of course that could've been my fault for leaving my loop together after draining too. But I had other ET rotaries in my loop (45s) and not a single one of those corroded. So yeah I hafta say it was the quality and not user mistake that led to the corrosion.
> 
> Slight hint of rust between the barrels... :rolleys:
> 
> The threads are white due to silicon tape. I know for sure. But being a veteran silicon tape user I don't let it get into the flow chamber so the white stuff on the ends is corrosion and not left over remnants of tape.
> 
> So if you plan to do this type of setup, go with XSPC or better still go with BP if they have male male rotaries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep for the info however. Now I know which version of Tap I need to see if I can get it locally. Found a 6-32 tap at NAPA (of all places) and now I will see if they can get me the G1/4 tap I had been having a tough time having them source.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm more inclined to use them for long runs. I have quite a few spare BP fittings and after tapping the threads, the bp fittings were just as good as the XSPC. When i did my testing it was with other brands of fittings. Needs a bit more tweaking and i can get tube locally for cheap.



(the white scratches are external from storage; some polishing will take care of them)

edit: gonna run a little test sample on its own for kicks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not that im aware of,cracking is almost guaranteed. Fast Fate did it with properly machined/threaded parts and it pretty much all broke.
> 
> Speak to him about it.


I did mine by hand. I don't have a wrench for this g1/4 tap (won't fit 1/2 tapping wrench). I used a ratchet spanner for turning. Nothing has cracked though my initial tries with the BP fittings (short) look promising.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Actually, probably the worst thing you can do is to thread the acrylic tube on the inside.
> 
> Acrylic is quite weak when being placed under expansion type stresses and will eventually fracture. It is way better when utilised in compression type applications.
> 
> It is the reason EK moved away from internally threaded res tubes to having their reservoirs threaded on the outside of the tube so when screwing their end caps on it places the acrylic under compression rather than expansion forces.


The id is just about there for a g1/4 tap to grab. I abondoned this project a while back due to the fittings I needed weren't to my liking. After going through my parts bin, I found a bunch of bp fittings i had lying around. I'm thinking of just doing some runs to tidy up and jazz my loop up a bit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Got fittings?


Fittings hoarder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Has anyone had successfully used acrylic tube with threaded g1/4??? I just found three tubes of 1/2x3/4 I bought a while ago after watching the mod-zoo vid. I had a go at it and after a few tries, got some pretty good and strong threads.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, probably the worst thing you can do is to thread the acrylic tube on the inside.
> 
> Acrylic is quite weak when being placed under expansion type stresses and will eventually fracture. *It is way better when utilised in compression type applications*.
> 
> It is the reason EK moved away from internally threaded res tubes to having their reservoirs threaded on the outside of the tube so when screwing their end caps on it places the acrylic under compression rather than expansion forces.
Click to expand...

Exactly this.
Couple a few thermal cycles into it and they just let go.

You also need rotary male to male to get the tubes fitted,they do not have the loose tolerances required for easy fitting,you need to be extremely accurate with your runs,any stress placed on the tube with be directly acting on the weakest point which is the threads.

If you think you can get it to work then share your results Wermad?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Stay far away from the ET male male rotaries Werm. I have one and it corroded. It may have been a factory defect in the finish. But I wasn't overly impressed by it.
> 
> Of course that could've been my fault for leaving my loop together after draining too. But I had other ET rotaries in my loop (45s) and not a single one of those corroded. So yeah I hafta say it was the quality and not user mistake that led to the corrosion.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Slight hint of rust between the barrels*... :rolleys:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Rust is surprising to me. I used those very fittings in my first ever water cooled build without issue. At the time of purchase, I was informed the EnzoTech fittings were made from brass. If that holds true and you had rust in a fitting, you may want to look elsewhere for the rust producer.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @emsj86I am using nactua industrial 2000 rpm hooked to a swiftech pwm fan splitter. They run at 650rpm off the cpu fan header. At 650rpm there silent and throu some air. 4790k 1.28v 4.7ghz 360 sr2. Hotest core hits 60. I might crank them up and see what the difference in temp is. I have tried sp120, phantex, bitfenix spectre pro, aerocool,all sound loud compared to the nactua. Wanted to try gt and the vardars, can't speak about them. But I sure do love my nactuas.
> 
> I got some cleaning to do and figure out wether to get an extended roof or put my full window top with no window in and let them stick out just a touch. Either way that's two feet from my head open to the world and they are quiet.


See that's my point if frustration right there my hottest core on occt is 74 fans at 800 idle and 1800 load. And this is at 23.3 c or 74 degrees. With my hardware I would expect more. Had same temps with a slim 360 and 240 rad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Stay far away from the ET male male rotaries Werm. I have one and it corroded. It may have been a factory defect in the finish. But I wasn't overly impressed by it.
> 
> Of course that could've been my fault for leaving my loop together after draining too. But I had other ET rotaries in my loop (45s) and not a single one of those corroded. So yeah I hafta say it was the quality and not user mistake that led to the corrosion.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Slight hint of rust between the barrels*... :rolleys:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rust is surprising to me. I used those very fittings in my first ever water cooled build without issue. At the time of purchase, I was informed the EnzoTech fittings were made from brass. If that holds true and you had rust in a fitting, you may want to look elsewhere for the rust producer.
Click to expand...

I only have one place that could produce rust and that was from the MB block's access plate. I don't know if it's steel or not. But in any case, the whole loop is down for the case mod I'm doing and there is no other part that shows any rust activity. Just that one.

I thought of that the moment I saw rust on the part. It's not a very big spot. Probably about the size of a pinhead. Maybe I got a knockoff or something. Dunno. Just know that I'm not that impressed by it.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I only have one place that could produce rust and that was from the MB block's access plate. I don't know if it's steel or not. But in any case, the whole loop is down for the case mod I'm doing and there is no other part that shows any rust activity. Just that one.
> 
> I thought of that the moment I saw rust on the part. It's not a very big spot. Probably about the size of a pinhead. Maybe I got a knockoff or something. Dunno. *Just know that I'm not that impressed by it.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


As well as you shouldn't be.

TCO


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> See that's my point if frustration right there my hottest core on occt is 74 fans at 800 idle and 1800 load. And this is at 23.3 c or 74 degrees. With my hardware I would expect more. Had same temps with a slim 360 and 240 rad.


Your problem isn't the cooling capacity of the loop, it's getting the heat out of the cpu. Intel mainstream cpu chips are so tiny these days that intel doesn't solder them to the heatspreader and they are very hard to get the heat out of.

Try googling to see how small the chip actually is, then realise half of it is the intel gpu and the other half includes the memory controller and the pcie controller for the gpu slots.. the actual cores are tiny and hard to cool.


----------



## mus1mus

Could be just a delid candidate CPU and not cooling capacity limitation nor architecture's fault.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Could be just a delid candidate CPU and not cooling capacity limitation nor architecture's fault.


Always wanted to get a bare die EK mount, still awaiting funds for that i5 system! My gf is building a skylake i5 over the passing months so will be fun to overclock that a little too.


----------



## Domler

Had to run into work. Will update later. Mayhems glass tubing with pastel extreme. Potato phone pic with the flash as only lighting. Enjoy.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly this.
> Couple a few thermal cycles into it and they just let go.
> 
> You also need rotary male to male to get the tubes fitted,they do not have the loose tolerances required for easy fitting,you need to be extremely accurate with your runs,any stress placed on the tube with be directly acting on the weakest point which is the threads.
> 
> If you think you can get it to work then share your results Wermad?


I'm only planning to do long runs connected by compression fittings and soft tubing. Cutting was an issue and I didn't like my hacksaw and dremel results, so I ended up using my miter saw with the same blade i used to cut aluminum. Came out pretty decent and needs some sanding. Far better then the first two methods. Blade is 10" 60-tooth for fine cutting. I'll block sand the test sample that will go into my rig.



edit: I don't recommend the miter saw for 3/8x1/2 or 1/2x5/8 (and the equivalent metric) as it might just chip. I sped up the blade and dropped it down and left it down after stopping the blade. Avoids kick back and chipping on return I guess.


----------



## wermad

Sorry for the double post but I had a bit of success.

-trimmed off the initial threads after tapping with the mitter saw.
-sandeded the ends using 120> 320> 500> 1000 (probably a final run of 1200-1500 to get it ultra smooth).
-swapped the stock xspc and ac o-rings for chunkier ones (enzo tech stock and extra colored o-rings). This is key as the 1/2 whole may not allow a tight seal with thinner o-rings.

No leaks in little test sample! Not in the loop though. Will leave it over night over some paper towels and I'll drop a bit of mayhems to better detect leaks.

Not all threads grabbed! Alphacool didn't grab but xspc and bitspower did. The AC is a long plug so it had no issues grabbing.







AFter trimming w/ miter saw:


Post sanding:




Stock o-ring on left, enzotech stock on right (this one went in):


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@wermad This is acrylic Tubing Yes?

TCO


----------



## wermad

Yes, but its 1/2x*3/4* a lot thicker and what mod-zoo used to tap the inside.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lookin sharp Werm.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Thanks dude







.

Im planning of just doing conduit - type runs to interconnect components. It will look better then long runs of black soft tube. These hardlines will be fixed to the chassis and I'll use soft tube to connect them with the components. I'm thinking of running some red pastel or blue if i change the color theme.


----------



## HIGHPOINT

Looking through the posts.... the *mass* majority of you lacking the use of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film for use in sealing threads, astonishes me.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

There is no need to use PTFE tape as the o-ring provides the seal. PTFE tape can actually comprise the seal and cause leaks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HIGHPOINT*
> 
> Looking through the posts.... the *mass* majority of you lacking the use of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film for use in sealing threads, astonishes me.


The majority of threaded components used in pc watercooling are british pipe parallel with an o-ring to seal. Teflon tape is used more for npt or bspt with tapered threads. I've seen some of those who use teflon tape with their fittings end up with leaks or breaking/ruining the threads.


----------



## HIGHPOINT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> There is no need to use PTFE tape as the o-ring provides the seal. PTFE tape can actually comprise the seal and cause leaks.


Not when done correctly, it also acts to protect threads. I've heard too many stories about how polytetrafluoroethylene will break apart and get into the pump... obviously for those people they're applying it wrong.


----------



## VSG

There is no "done correctly" here. This isn't NPT for example, and different fittings use different means to seal. You don't use ferrules here like with the SwageLok fittings, do you? The O-ring does the job as it is supposed to.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HIGHPOINT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> There is no need to use PTFE tape as the o-ring provides the seal. PTFE tape can actually comprise the seal and cause leaks.
> 
> 
> 
> Not when done correctly, it also acts to protect threads. I've heard too many stories about how polytetrafluoroethylene will break apart and get into the pump... obviously for those people they're applying it wrong.
Click to expand...

PTFE tape is not to be used with BSPP fittings,the whole fitting is designed around the o-ring seal,PTFE tape is for NPT gas tight threads.

Using PTFE with BSPP threads and an acrylic top,for example,means a cracked top down the road.

I see your argument but its invalid in this instance.


----------



## Ceadderman

While not necessary due to the o-ring seal, I use a 1 1/4 of ptfe wrap to protect threads. It's an OCD thing more than anything.

I also have both acrylic and acetal tops and no top was harmed in any way in the building of my loop. Using ptfe allows me to hand tighten my fittings to snug without overdoing it too. I tighten to snug+ 1/4 turn to ensure a leak free seal.

But, again as stated by more experienced enthusiasts here... it's not necessary due to the o-ring. I'm old and learned plumming/wiring/cabinetry from my Gramps who was a Master Electrician and licensed HAM operator. These things were ingrained into my head at a young age so I doubt that I will ever kick these habits.









~Ceadder


----------



## HIGHPOINT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> While not necessary due to the o-ring seal, I use a 1 1/4 of ptfe wrap to protect threads. It's an OCD thing more than anything.
> 
> I also have both acrylic and acetal tops and no top was harmed in any way in the building of my loop. Using ptfe allows me to hand tighten my fittings to snug without overdoing it too. I tighten to snug+ 1/4 turn to ensure a leak free seal.
> 
> But, again as stated by more experienced enthusiasts here... it's not necessary due to the o-ring. I'm old and learned plumming/wiring/cabinetry from my Gramps who was a Master Electrician and licensed HAM operator. These things were ingrained into my head at a young age so I doubt that I will ever kick these habits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Brought up the same way, though I disagree polytetrafluoroethylene was designed not only to prevent leaks but to ensure the "threading" does not corrode or become damaged in any way. Preserving the threading has always been as important as the quality of the O-ring, the O-ring has nothing to do with the threading and only prevents "leaking" between connecting positions. It also does not matter how a thread is designed, liquid (microscopic) in any form will always find a way between the threads and slowly cause deterioration, unless dealt with proactively. I can have more experienced (Engineers) users outside from here quote me on that.









Enthusiasts are just that.


----------



## wermad

A day and no leaks!





Does anyone know where to get the xspc v1 10mm extension? don't like the v2 looks







. Might buy some other brand to swap with the existing ones I have already.....


----------



## Ceadderman

FrozenPCs mebbe?









Sorry couldn't resist.









Only places I can think of are PPCs and FleaBay.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

ppcs has v2 and ebay has nothing. maybe amazon. I'm also looking for some old skool ek barbs w/ the long threads. I'll experiment a bit but I think I'll just buy some extensions to pull the xspc ones I'm using in my loop.


----------



## pc-illiterate

wermad, i used alphacool fatboys for my first barbs and i know theyre long enough that they are too long to screw into bp 45 and 90* fittings and seal. good luck on that set-up though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wermad, i used alphacool fatboys for my first barbs and i know theyre long enough that they are too long to screw into bp 45 and 90* fittings and seal. good luck on that set-up though.


alphacool seems to have narrower threads. All the fittings i tested from them don't grab. XSPC, bits, and AC have grabbed so far with xspc being the best. I really don't wanna use barbs but i've seen a few with longer threads (>5mm). I'm scouring aqutatuning for more stuff but I'm more likely just to pull the xspc extensions I already have in my loop, swap them for something else, and use these xspc extensions for the acrylic tube.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wermad, i used alphacool fatboys for my first barbs and i know theyre long enough that they are too long to screw into bp 45 and 90* fittings and seal. good luck on that set-up though.
> 
> 
> 
> alphacool seems to have narrower threads. All the fittings i tested from them don't grab. XSPC, bits, and AC have grabbed so far with xspc being the best. I really don't wanna use barbs but i've seen a few with longer threads (>5mm). I'm scouring aqutatuning for more stuff but I'm more likely just to pull the xspc extensions I already have in my loop, swap them for something else, and use these xspc extensions for the acrylic tube.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you're going to a real buttload of work for something you're going to wish you hadn't done, a little farther down the road . . . . .









Somehow this internal threading thing is like that kiddie diddler drunken uncle that shows up every Thanksgiving to ruin the family get together, . . . and then fades into oblivion until next year.

D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Internal threading of the Acrylic pipe is quite different. Just not sure why at this time would someone need to do this? Hobby? Just something different?

Just a simple Crossthread of some sort while changing fittings could really put a damper on the build









It is very interesting though!

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sounds like you're going to a real buttload of work for something you're going to wish you hadn't done, a little farther down the road . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow this internal threading thing is like that kiddie diddler drunken uncle that shows up every Thanksgiving to ruin the family get together, . . . and then fades into oblivion until next year.
> 
> D.


Its called something different, which you're quite familiar with Diva







.

I've tried yanking out a test sample using a bitspower fitting and xspc adapter and its surprisingly strong. I'm sure its way more force needed then what the pressure from the loop would ask for. I'm only doing this since I have the material on hand and its a different approach as I've said. We had a small discussion a few months ago and I proudly preached I do things different that may not be the cup-of-tea of the established modders. So far my testing is going great and i won't have to deal with the boat load of work switching to all hardline would entail. Again, I'm only gonna do a few runs somewhat like fixed piping attached to components via soft tube. I'm not going as far as the mod-zoo guys because I feel its not worth bending nor dumping a butt load of cash on angle fittings. I'll post my results once I move on to a test sample in the loop, which will be positioned away from the main components. My TX10 has enough room for such little experiments and I luv the challenge









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Internal threading of the Acrylic pipe is quite different. Just not sure why at this time would someone need to do this? Hobby? Just something different?
> 
> Just a simple Crossthread of some sort while changing fittings could really put a damper on the build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is very interesting though!
> 
> TCO


See above and what's wrong with being different (???)! Internal threaded tube has been somewhat quiet and the mod-zoo mod didn't really make this mod take off imho. More then likely due to the complexity and less diverse availability of fittings that can work. I could go with the "traditional" hardline route but its been done a millions times already. I can do this because:

a) I have a g1/4 tap I bought years ago
b) i have 1/2x3/4 tube I bought a year ago (and can source it and mainstream sizes locally for cheap).
c) i have a bunch of left over fittings that seem to work
&
d) I won't have to spend a bunch of cash

It's like those ppl who like to make custome reservoirs. Why do it when you have really good options you can easily buy? You run the risk of leaking or cracking, but if you do it right, its something unique and less cookie-cutter-common. If it don't work, meh, I'll move one. I gave up initially as the fittings I had were just not wide enough to successfully grab.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> See above and what's wrong with being different (???)! Internal threaded tube has been somewhat quiet and the mod-zoo mod didn't really make this mod take off imho. More then likely due to the complexity and less diverse availability of fittings that can work. I could go with the "traditional" hardline route but its been done a millions times already. I can do this because:
> 
> a) I have a g1/4 tap I bought years ago
> b) i have 1/2x3/4 tube I bought a year ago (and can source it and mainstream sizes locally for cheap).
> c) i have a bunch of left over fittings that seem to work
> &
> d) I won't have to spend a bunch of cash
> 
> It's like those ppl who like to make custome reservoirs. Why do it when you have really good options you can easily buy? You run the risk of leaking or cracking, but if you do it right, its something unique and less cookie-cutter-common. If it don't work, meh, I'll move one. I gave up initially as the fittings I had were just not wide enough to successfully grab.


Nothing Wrong with Being Different. Just asking of how you came about this idea. But It seems to be to utilize things that you have already procured. Which was the main question behind my questions.









Not letting things go to waste is a beautiful thing. I look forward to the results.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nothing Wrong with Being Different. Just asking of how you came about this idea. But It seems to be to utilize things that you have already procured. Which was the main question behind my questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not letting things go to waste is a beautiful thing. I look forward to the results.
> 
> TCO


Its really not looks, tbh as some fittings make it look awkward. I think 1/2 or 12mm looks much svelte and sleek and don't take away from the build. Its a bit too big (somewhat akin to 1/2x3/4 soft tube) for my taste, so why I plan to use it sparingly if its successful.

I had majority of the parts already in storage one rod was snapped into pieces. I had three left and decided to use it all up and not let it get trashed in storage.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its really not looks, tbh as some fittings make it look awkward. I think 1/2 or 12mm looks much svelte and sleek and don't take away from the build. Its a bit too big (somewhat akin to 1/2x3/4 soft tube) for my taste, so why I plan to use it sparingly if its successful.
> 
> I had majority of the parts already in storage one rod was snapped into pieces. I had three left and decided to use it all up and not let it get trashed in storage.


But I don't think when you build, you are ever worried about looks. You are more funtionality, and justifiably so. You've got a lot of rads that need to be used









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sounds like you're going to a real buttload of work for something you're going to wish you hadn't done, a little farther down the road . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow this internal threading thing is like that kiddie diddler drunken uncle that shows up every Thanksgiving to ruin the family get together, . . . and then fades into oblivion until next year.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Its called something different, which you're quite familiar with Diva
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I've tried yanking out a test sample using a bitspower fitting and xspc adapter and its surprisingly strong. I'm sure its way more force needed then what the pressure from the loop would ask for. I'm only doing this since I have the material on hand and its a different approach as I've said. We had a small discussion a few months ago and I proudly preached I do things different that may not be the cup-of-tea of the established modders. So far my testing is going great and i won't have to deal with the boat load of work switching to all hardline would entail. Again, I'm only gonna do a few runs somewhat like fixed piping attached to components via soft tube. I'm not going as far as the mod-zoo guys because I feel its not worth bending nor dumping a butt load of cash on angle fittings. I'll post my results once I move on to a test sample in the loop, which will be positioned away from the main components. My TX10 has enough room for such little experiments and I luv the challenge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Internal threading of the Acrylic pipe is quite different. Just not sure why at this time would someone need to do this? Hobby? Just something different?
> 
> Just a simple Crossthread of some sort while changing fittings could really put a damper on the build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is very interesting though!
> 
> TCO
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> See above and what's wrong with being different (???)! Internal threaded tube has been somewhat quiet and *the mod-zoo mod didn't really make this mod take off imho.* More then likely due to the complexity and less diverse availability of fittings that can work. I could go with the "traditional" hardline route but its been done a millions times already. I can do this because:
> 
> a) I have a g1/4 tap I bought years ago
> b) i have 1/2x3/4 tube I bought a year ago (and can source it and mainstream sizes locally for cheap).
> c) i have a bunch of left over fittings that seem to work
> &
> d) I won't have to spend a bunch of cash
> 
> It's like those ppl who like to make custome reservoirs. Why do it when you have really good options you can easily buy? You run the risk of leaking or cracking, but if you do it right, its something unique and less cookie-cutter-common. If it don't work, meh, I'll move one. I gave up initially as the fittings I had were just not wide enough to successfully grab.
Click to expand...

Because of all the associated problems with it.......

However,you have bits laying round,why not? Better than it all sitting in the spares bin,never to be used.

Just bear in mind that the tube will crack with any lateral force being applied,try to design your loop so any force is applied inline with the tube,this should keep any issues to a minimum.

And some pics of the methodology would be nice to see,along with the end results.

I dont build res to be different per se,more because I cant fit 'off the peg' ones in most of the time......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> But I don't think when you build, you are ever worried about looks. You are more funtionality, and justifiably so. You've got a lot of rads that need to be used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I keep my fans on the lowest setting and during gaming, only the psu fan is heard.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because of all the associated problems with it.......
> 
> However,you have bits laying round,why not? Better than it all sitting in the spares bin,never to be used.
> 
> Just bear in mind that the tube will crack with any lateral force being applied,try to design your loop so any force is applied inline with the tube,this should keep any issues to a minimum.
> 
> And some pics of the methodology would be nice to see,along with the end results.
> 
> I dont build res to be different per se,more because I cant fit 'off the peg' ones in most of the time......


Yeah, my explanation seems vague and I'll try to get a paint schematic thought up or maybe a mock up. The aproach I'm going with won't have any major loads on the tube.

edit: the custom res analogy, it popped into me thinking of Gabriel's build in an S5. I think he made one too from scratch. There's been a few more but I can't think of any right now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I keep my fans on the lowest setting and during gaming, only the psu fan is heard.
> .


And I am sure that is not a bother. You Don't wear headphones? Or do you have a nice Speaker System?

TCO


----------



## wermad

My paint skills suck and I'm at work, but you can get a basic understanding of what I'm trying to do.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And I am sure that is not a bother. You Don't wear headphones? Or do you have a nice Speaker System?
> 
> TCO


Only at night when the baby's are asleep but during the day I can thunder it as long as its not too annoying for the wifey. I may ramp up the speed during benches.


----------



## Domler

Need some help from the pros. So in my infinit wisdom (sleep deprivation) I put some red dyed aurora in my loop for about 8 hrs. Woke up and said what am I doing. Its gonna stain the bejesus out of it. I have tried to flush the system many many times, but it's still picking up a bit of red. Its an s8 with top mounted rads. Flushed with a foutain pump. Fresh water. Tubing is glass, so that's not stained. Blocks I can scrub. But I'm thinking the rads might not be filling all the way with the fountain pump. Should I remove the rads and use blitz part 1, vinegar flush, or live with red forever. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Way2grouchy

HAF X mod going pretty good. Starting to install the plumbing. First time acrylic. Pretty fun so far.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Need some help from the pros. So in my infinit wisdom (sleep deprivation) I put some red dyed aurora in my loop for about 8 hrs. Woke up and said what am I doing. Its gonna stain the bejesus out of it. I have tried to flush the system many many times, but it's still picking up a bit of red. Its an s8 with top mounted rads. Flushed with a foutain pump. Fresh water. Tubing is glass, so that's not stained. Blocks I can scrub. But I'm thinking the rads might not be filling all the way with the fountain pump. Should I remove the rads and use blitz part 1, vinegar flush, or live with red forever. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.


I typically do the hot tap water and then a nice flush of 1:10 vinegar to water.


----------



## Domler

@wermad
Thanks bud. How long do flush with vinegar water. Hour? 6 hours?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @wermad
> Thanks bud. How long do flush with vinegar water. Hour? 6 hours?


I just sealed it and shook the rad a few times to swash the liquid thoroughly. Probably no more the 5 minutes before I ran it through the hot tap. I did this on a few of the used rads I purchased that were ran through red dyes.

Repeat as much as you'd like. I used a q-tip and fresh distilled to ensure most of the red was gone. After this and a few months of just distilled, the water came out clean and no trace of red. The hot tap does the bulk of the removable tbh, so be prepared for crude coming out the other end. You can always plumb some soft tube on them to divert the escaping water/liquid.

I do a final rinse in pure distilled before I let it dry a bit.

edit: I hear the blitz does the job pretty well if you wanna go with this instead.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> 
> 
> HAF X mod going pretty good. Starting to install the plumbing. First time acrylic. Pretty fun so far.


Awesome work there. 90° HAF....Silverstone will be knocking on your door (j/k







). Luv the bottom chamber


----------



## Way2grouchy

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Awesome work there. 90° HAF....Silverstone will be knocking on your door (j/k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Luv the bottom chamber


Thanks wermad! That means a lot coming from you. Made the bottom chamber out of an old air conditioner in the back yard. Ha ha


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> .
> Thanks wermad! That means a lot coming from you. Made the bottom chamber out of an old air conditioner in the back yard. Ha ha


Sweet









Its an awesome feeling to re-purpose things that are unused and make them in to cool things (no a/c pun intended







).

Are you gonna go hardline or soft?


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its an awesome feeling to re-purpose things that are unused and make them in to cool things (no a/c pun intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Are you gonna go hardline or soft?


Hardline. Been playing around with some acrylic tubing and got a little routing done. I agree I like to recycle!


----------



## Solonowarion

Seeing what you guys realistically think of this block. It has been in constant use for 3 years.

inlet/outlet you can see some cracks and also from the 4 holes that screw the coppoer on. They look less than a mm deep. I've cooked the top in the oven as per some direction here and it seemed to help a bit.

Just curious what you guys think.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Seems pretty typical of my experience with acrylic blocks. I never had any leaking or anything, just cosmetic cracking. It's the main reason I prefer acetal.


----------



## wermad

^^^ +1 on acetal.

2 days no leaks. Found some anchors in my parts bin. This should do fine in holding the tube w/ zip ties. Won't get a chance to plumb a piece into my loop till the end of the week though.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, how tight do you think a run can get. I have 1/2 inch ID 3/4 inch OD tubing and I am worried my run is a bit too tight.


----------



## pc-illiterate

If it isn't kinked, you're good.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 2 days no leaks. Found some anchors in my parts bin. This should do fine in holding the tube w/ zip ties. Won't get a chance to plumb a piece into my loop till the end of the week though.


If only static testing was good enough though. Sort of like watches are rated water resistant at 10 metres in a static pressure test but take it into the surf and its toast.

Still, it's not nothing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> If it isn't kinked, you're good.


This.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If only static testing was good enough though. Sort of like watches are rated water resistant at 10 metres in a static pressure test but take it into the surf and its toast.
> 
> Still, it's not nothing.


I'm just taking it step by step. Since this type of tube is *not* gonna replace my entire loop, I'm going about it cautiously and methodically.


----------



## Ceadderman

Do you have something mocked up to show your goal werm?

I'm a mental builder myself so I won't judge if you don't. But mebbe if we had a better idea of your runs, people might be less inclined to... well, you know. I must admit I thought that the whole loop was being replaced.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Actually only way you'll know is if it starts to kink once the coolant is warmed up to 19-25c+


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually only way you'll know is if it starts to kink once the coolant is warmed up to 19-25c+
Click to expand...

Doubtful it would kink given the lack of crush pressure from the fittings and the length of the tubing between the connections.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Do you have something mocked up to show your goal werm?
> 
> I'm a mental builder myself so I won't judge if you don't. But mebbe if we had a better idea of your runs, people might be less inclined to... well, you know. I must admit I thought that the whole loop was being replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, same here buddy. I end up just doing mental design/calculations/etc. I made a simple paint sketch:


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
I have a radiator that leaks from the g/14 port.
I've tried about 6+/- fittings so I know its from the port.

What can I do without buying a new one?


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Doubtful it would kink given the lack of crush pressure from the fittings and the length of the tubing between the connections.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So I'm actually wondering if this type of run is ok. I used 6 fittings total and I am worried that wen I adjusted it some of them came loose from the super tight from the config I had and because if the 6 fittings a leak could come? Could i Do this run with less fittings?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have a radiator that leaks from the g/14 port.
> I've tried about 6+/- fittings so I know its from the port.
> 
> What can I do without buying a new one?


Have you inspected the port and thread on it? All the fittings you tested were of the same type and brand? Sometimes a type of fitting might not seal completely while other does. Example, the o-ring is inserted in a crevice on the fitting and might not be completely pressured against the rad port. Those are the thoughts that occur to me. Another possibility is to put a second o-ring on top of the first and see if that stop the leak.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Have you inspected the port and thread on it? All the fittings you tested were of the same type and brand? Sometimes a type of fitting might not seal completely while other does. Example, the o-ring is inserted in a crevice on the fitting and might not be completely pressured against the rad port. Those are the thoughts that occur to me. Another possibility is to put a second o-ring on top of the first and see if that stop the leak.


I used 3 sets of brands and different types of fittings. I did try to use a second o-ring and it leaked, less but still leaks... Thanks for the reply though.

Edit: The port seems fine. Tad scratched from Bing used but otherwise it's fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Have you inspected the port and thread on it? All the fittings you tested were of the same type and brand? Sometimes a type of fitting might not seal completely while other does. Example, the o-ring is inserted in a crevice on the fitting and might not be completely pressured against the rad port. Those are the thoughts that occur to me. Another possibility is to put a second o-ring on top of the first and see if that stop the leak.
> 
> 
> 
> I used 3 sets of brands and different types of fittings. I did try to use a second o-ring and it leaked, less but still leaks... Thanks for the reply though.
> 
> Edit: The port seems fine. Tad scratched from Bing used but otherwise it's fine.
Click to expand...

Look around the port,is there any paint cracks?


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Look around the port,is there any paint cracks?


Well there's paint chips?. It is a second hand rad. Both ports have chips but only one leaks.


----------



## jon666

Sapphire went over kill with the nitro cooler I think. Hair dryer good to use to try and loosen up thermal pads and pop off air cooler?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Sapphire went over kill with the nitro cooler I think. Hair dryer good to use to try and loosen up thermal pads and pop off air cooler?


Run the card through some heavy benchmarks for a few loops to get it nice and warm. Then take her out and see if that helps remove the pad. If you tear the pad, you can buy replacements easily.


----------



## jon666

I am trying to remove the stock cooler onmy nitro 390. From what I cansee thereare at least a couple of thermal pads keeping the stock cooler glued to the pcb. Was wondering if a hair dryer would help loosen things up.

P.S. Expect typos, using tablet. Touchscreen is a sorry replacement for a physical keyboard


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I am trying to remove the stock cooler onmy nitro 390. From what I cansee thereare at least a couple of thermal pads keeping the stock cooler glued to the pcb. Was wondering if a hair dryer would help loosen things up.
> 
> P.S. Expect typos, using tablet. Touchscreen is a sorry replacement for a physical keyboard


A hairdryer will work, just keep it at a few inches away when in full-blast. Pads can stick but double check you don't have a second or third plugged wire. If it don't budge, try what I suggested (put the card back together, run it few times to heat it up and then try disassemble again).


----------



## jon666

Ah I hear what you are saying now.Here is to hoping that my next post will be pics of my pcback underwaterI. Thanks wermad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Ah I hear what you are saying now.Here is to hoping that my next post will be pics of my pcback underwaterI. Thanks wermad


Np









Working with acrylic has me thinking of trying it again. What do you guys think of the "enhanced" compression type vs the "multi link" friction type?


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> really tco? you think he should have spent more money on glass and fittings and time on cutting and lining up and possibly re-cutting causing more monetary loss to make all of the tubing runs straight?
> sometimes i think people criticize just to criticize.
> 
> great looking build domler.


I agree with tco on this. It looks good but I'm about straight lines and builds with balance. If somber likes it then that's all that matters. If I was going to do a build in glass I would have ran the runs in Petg first.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Np
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working with acrylic has me thinking of trying it again. What do you guys think of the "enhanced" compression type vs the "multi link" friction type?


I am using the Bitspower enhanced fittings. So far they are a mixed blessing. On one hand, I like the looks much more and they leave me with an impression of being more secure, especially on bends where straight end to end rigidity is not possible.









On the downside, they are more difficult to work with, at least for me anyway. No matter how careful I am when sliding the retaining ring over the tubing, the inside of the ring almost never fails to make a mark or two on the outside of the tube.









The silver lining is increased integrity, more freedom to make bends without using more fittings and the marks are surface scratches; easily and quickly polished out.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Well there's paint chips?. It is a second hand rad. Both ports have chips but only one leaks.


Paint chips are not necessarily an indication of a crack, but can be. It is possible for you to get a picture of the port?

Unless you can definitely see/find a crack or braze that is broken, your problem sounds like threads to me.
Have you tried just a single new O-ring and plumbers tape? The leakage could be around worn or a broken thread. Plumbers tape helps lubricate the two threading surfaces for installation and assists with sealing the two threaded surfaces by filling the empty space between threads. If you have not used the tape and give it a try, make sure you don't get any passed the end of the fitting threads. You don't want any breaking off and flowing through your loop.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Working with acrylic has me thinking of trying it again. What do you guys think of the "enhanced" compression type vs the "multi link" friction type?


C48s Vs C47s you Ask?

I like Push and Fill. (C47s)

I used C48s in the S3 (Just a couple) and either work just fine.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I am using the Bitspower enhanced fittings. So far they are a mixed blessing. On one hand, I like the looks much more and they leave me with an impression of being more secure, especially on bends where straight end to end rigidity is not possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the downside, they are more difficult to work with, at least for me anyway. No matter how careful I am when sliding the retaining ring over the tubing, the inside of the ring almost never fails to make a mark or two on the outside of the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The silver lining is increased integrity, more freedom to make bends without using more fittings and the marks are surface scratches; easily and quickly polished out.


Thank you for the input. Since I don't plan on bending, it seems the push-in friction type is the way to go for me. Also, the overall dimension seems to blend in better with angle /adapter fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> C48s Vs C47s you Ask?
> 
> I like Push and Fill. (C47s)
> 
> I used C48s in the S3 (Just a couple) and either work just fine.
> 
> TCO


actually, c47/c48 vs "enhanced" compression


----------



## DarthBaggins

I used the "Enhanced" style on JAC (Primochill Ghost) and no issues at all, but personally I'm more comfortable with that style over push to fit


----------



## wermad

Thanks









After looking at the additional fittings I'll be needing, it seems the enhanced is more appealing to me. I've yet to pull the trigger so I'm just gathering info atm.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you for the input. Since I don't plan on bending, it seems the push-in friction type is the way to go for me. Also, the overall dimension seems to blend in better with angle /adapter fittings.
> *actually, c47/c48 vs "enhanced" compression*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's what I am talking about.



I used both in the S3.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you for the input. Since I don't plan on bending, it seems the push-in friction type is the way to go for me. Also, the overall dimension seems to blend in better with angle /adapter fittings.
> actually, c47/c48 vs "enhanced" compression
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


both work great Wer and I used and like both. There is a difference in the visual effect too since the c47 seats flush with angle adapters and have a small diameter while the enhanced version is larger in diameter and do not seat flush. The enhanced version is somewhat easier to work since the distance the tube have to go inside the adapter is smaller since the cap and one of the 2 o-rings are in the tube already. So for c47 you will need to manage a room of about 8 mm to insert the tube in the fitting while in the enhanced that figure would be around 4-5 mm (from the top of my head that figure might not be dead accurate) but you got the point: the amount of tube that need to go into the fitting is larger with the c47.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> both work great Wer and I used and like both. There is a difference in the visual effect too since the c47 seats flush with angle adapters and have a small diameter while the enhanced version is larger in diameter and do not seat flush. The enhanced version is somewhat easier to work since the distance the tube have to go inside the adapter is smaller since the cap and one of the 2 o-rings are in the tube already. So for c47 you will need to manage a room of about 8 mm to insert the tube in the fitting while in the enhanced that figure would be around 4-5 mm (from the top of my head that figure might not be dead accurate) but you got the point: the amount of tube that need to go into the fitting is larger with the c47.


Thank you for the input sir







. I'm swaying now to compression "enhanced" fittings


----------



## B NEGATIVE

In unrelated news.....

I has a new toy.

http://www.lg.com/uk/monitors/lg-34UM95



On topic.

I prefer the c47's over the enhance purely because of fitting 'bulk',the enhance angled fittings are good tho.

Personally,I have grown very fond of the EK fittings,finish colours were a bit mixed on them tho.


----------



## wermad

Nice screen









I agree, w/ adapters, the multi-link look great (albeit ~12mm). I settled on BP deep red 12mm acylic tube to avoid using color, but I'm still undecided on which fittings to get.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree, w/ adapters, the multi-link look great (albeit ~12mm). I settled on BP deep red 12mm acylic tube to avoid using color, but I'm still undecided on which fittings to get.


If you want bend the tube, then enhanced is much better choice.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> I has a new toy.
> 
> http://www.lg.com/uk/monitors/lg-34UM95


Only 60hz. Why can't someone make one of these at 120hz


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In unrelated news.....
> 
> On topic.
> 
> I prefer the c47's over the enhance purely because of fitting 'bulk',the enhance angled fittings are good tho.
> 
> Personally,I have grown very fond of the EK fittings,finish colours were a bit mixed on them tho.


I don't like the overlap on the tube look as well from the Enhanced. But to each their own. The C47s make almost a streamline of tubing when used.

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> If you want bend the tube, then enhanced is much better choice.


Thanks







. I did try acrylic tube a couple of years ago and free-hand bending was a disaster for me. Even with bending kits, I can't see myself going through this step, so I'm gonna just cheat and go w/ angled adapters







. I do have enhanced now as my top pic. I'm scouring through builds and pics just to get more ideas.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Only 60hz. Why can't someone make one of these at 120hz


Yeah, it sucks. We just got 120-144hz 2k, it will be a while before 120hz 4k is mainstream. We'll probably be @ 8k by then







. I don't mind 60hz, especially when its five screens in mmg







.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I did try acrylic tube a couple of years ago and free-hand bending was a disaster for me. Even with bending kits, I can't see myself going through this step, so I'm gonna just cheat and go w/ angled adapters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I do have enhanced now as my top pic. I'm scouring through builds and pics just to get more ideas.
> Yeah, it sucks. We just got 120-144hz 2k, it will be a while before 120hz 4k is mainstream. We'll probably be @ 8k by then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't mind 60hz, especially when its five screens in mmg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Wer, this is what I use to bend my tubes. It works great. You make this cast of wood with the angle you want, heat the tube and insert on it. This along with 8mm internal and 12 mm OD is a great combination and guarantee of good bends every time. I got my wood casts from a local shop but I guess they are easy to do.




of course you can do that for any OD tube you want. These bends on grey matter were done using this combination:




You can see the effect of the thicker wall on the coolant inside especially when using something so solid as pastel which tend to give a colored tube look with tubes with thin wall.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Only 60hz. Why can't someone make one of these at 120hz


They have 100hz 144hz in this ratio.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I did try acrylic tube a couple of years ago and free-hand bending was a disaster for me. Even with bending kits, I can't see myself going through this step, so I'm gonna just cheat and go w/ angled adapters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I do have enhanced now as my top pic. I'm scouring through builds and pics just to get more ideas.


Just be mindful that opting for a 'no bend' solution will cost you a lot more, and if purchasing premium fittings then your costs can skyrocket.

At the end of the day it will more than likely come down to asthetics as to which variant you ultimately choose to use.

Here is a teaser pic from my current build - I'm not a fan of tube bending - parallel/straight lines are my preference. I also wanted to utilise 16mm OD acrylic for that 'heavier' look. Bitspower L blocks are being used for my 90 corners and the 16mm Bitspower enhanced fittings complement each other suitably well I think.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Wer, this is what I use to bend my tubes. It works great. You make this cast of wood with the angle you want, heat the tube and insert on it. This along with 8mm internal and 12 mm OD is a great combination and guarantee of good bends every time. I got my wood casts from a local shop but I guess they are easy to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of course you can do that for any OD tube you want. These bends on grey matter were done using this combination:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the effect of the thicker wall on the coolant inside especially when using something so solid as pastel which tend to give a colored tube look with tubes with thin wall.


Sweet idea







. Before the bending kits, i used a large diameter small piece of pvc (or an abs) pipe. I know some guys/gals went with custom jigs that also worked great. Though, i had thrown in the towel by then and didn't bother. Do you pre-heat with a gun or oven?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Just be mindful that opting for a 'no bend' solution will cost you a lot more, and if purchasing premium fittings then your costs can skyrocket.
> 
> At the end of the day it will more than likely come down to asthetics as to which variant you ultimately choose to use.
> 
> Here is a teaser pic from my current build - I'm not a fan of tube bending - parallel/straight lines are my preference. I also wanted to utilise 16mm OD acrylic for that 'heavier' look. Bitspower L blocks are being used for my 90 corners and the 16mm Bitspower enhanced fittings complement each other suitably well I think.


Yeah, that's the one huge trade off imho with no bending, the ton of angle fittings you'll need to purchase. I planning to scrap an upgrade and use that money to get those extra fittings instead. My current rig still plays games in 4k (60hz) without any issues. I have one more mod for the case and loop I want to get going before i plunge into converting to hardline.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Before the bending kits, i used a large diameter small piece of pvc (or an abs) pipe. I know some guys/gals went with custom jigs that also worked great. Though, i had thrown in the towel by then and didn't bother. Do you pre-heat with a gun or oven?
> Yeah, that's the one huge trade off imho with no bending, the ton of angle fittings you'll need to purchase. I planning to scrap an upgrade and use that money to get those extra fittings instead. My current rig still plays games in 4k (60hz) without any issues. I have one more mod for the case and loop I want to get going before i plunge into converting to hardline.


I use a heat gun wer positioned at around 10 - 15 cm from the tube and rotating it all the time to heat up the area to be bended and the near vicinity.


----------



## wermad

Wondered if anyone has tried this adapter on their gun


----------



## DarthBaggins

Seross uses one when plumbing his build Excessive Insanity


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> They have 100hz 144hz in this ratio.


The only ips, 144hz 2k monitor with free synch I can find is the Eizo, which is spared to come out Christmas-ish


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> The only ips, 144hz 2k monitor with free synch I can find is the Eizo, which is spared to come out Christmas-ish


What about MG279Q?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236466


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Looks like it's finally time to run proper system maintenance on my PC...


That's is nearly 20 month old Mayhems' Pastel Red..
It _should_ look like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






and my res almost looks deep purple.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Any suggestions for flushing/cleaning the Rads, res and blocks?
I already know a full system disassembly is in order, so I'll be getting things for that soon.
I don't plan on going with hard tubing, but I'm considering using some of the black tubing EK has, and running distilled with a clear concentrate.

Just as an FYI, my temps are still good.

(also, apologies for potato pics)


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> Looks like it's finally time to run proper system maintenance on my PC...
> 
> That's is nearly 20 month old Mayhems' Pastel Red..
> It _should_ look like this:
> 
> and my res almost looks deep purple.
> 
> Any suggestions for flushing/cleaning the Rads, res and blocks?
> I already know a full system disassembly is in order, so I'll be getting things for that soon.
> I don't plan on going with hard tubing, but I'm considering using some of the black tubing EK has, and running distilled with a clear concentrate.
> 
> Just as an FYI, my temps are still good.


People have been reporting pastel color changes regardless of the state of the radiators. And its seems like how hotter your loop the quicker it discolors. Just seems to be a drawback of the coolant.

I would just drain, flush with distilled and refill with new pastel.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> Looks like it's finally time to run proper system maintenance on my PC...
> 
> That's is nearly 20 month old Mayhems' Pastel Red..
> It _should_ look like this:
> 
> and my res almost looks deep purple.
> 
> Any suggestions for flushing/cleaning the Rads, res and blocks?
> I already know a full system disassembly is in order, so I'll be getting things for that soon.
> I don't plan on going with hard tubing, but I'm considering using some of the black tubing EK has, and running distilled with a clear concentrate.
> 
> Just as an FYI, my temps are still good.
> 
> 
> 
> People have been reporting pastel color changes regardless of the state of the radiators. And its seems like how hotter your loop the quicker it discolors. Just seems to be a drawback of the coolant.
> 
> I would just drain, flush with distilled and refill with new pastel.
Click to expand...

Been saying this for ages.......

Dyes break down,end of the story.


----------



## MadHatter5045

When it happened to Jayztwocents I (jokingly) suggested on twitter that it was the PETG causing the issue. He didn't take it well


----------



## yutzybrian

I just run clear, distilled water in colored tubing. Less mess to deal with.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> I just run clear, distilled water in colored tubing. Less mess to deal with.


Word


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> I just run clear, distilled water in colored tubing. Less mess to deal with.


Exactly. When you can get colored tubing and now even get colored Res tube, I don't see the need to add color to the loop via dye. Sure it looks cool but there are too many things that can crop up for my taste. Straight distilled + no additives ftw.









~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I run clear distilled in clear tubing - but then my builds are b-o-r-i-n-g.


----------



## alltheGHz

My s5 has a white internal and a grey external, I put white tubing to match the inside. Paired with distilled water, it totally kicks butt. Clear tubing looks kinda cheap imo, like you just walked into a hardware store and bought the first thing that was there, just my opinion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ruined pants......



21:9 is view fillingly awesome.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ruined pants......
> 
> 
> 
> 21:9 is view fillingly awesome.


Sahweeet Display BNeg. Also love the awesome D-Frame open air.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

I prefer more of a set-it-and-forget-it method, as I'm less worried about it's looks at this point. The system overall is just about 2.5 years old and been running as-is for about 20 months.
I don't have the money for upgrades or a full overhaul. If I did, I'd be moving to an ITX Skylake system, and probably dropping to a GTX 960, seeing as i don't game but on rare occasions anymore.

But for now, I'm going to use the rest of my clear tubing and running just DI Water and clear concentrate, and add a proper drain port while I'm at it.
I'm also going to eventually be working to make the system quieter.

Once I finish my current art project, I'll be draining the system and running it CPU-only with a stock cooler.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ruined pants......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 21:9 is view fillingly awesome.


Good! Since you are having a hard time keeping pants clean, just package that horrible monitor up and ship it on over to me.







I will throw myself on the sword monitor for you!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I see Lumo is being put to good use, and I would love one of those monitors to fit in-between my current monitors


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> When it happened to Jayztwocents I (jokingly) suggested on twitter that it was the PETG causing the issue. He didn't take it well


Hah. He starting to become arrogant since he started doing this YT thing fulltime







.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> When it happened to Jayztwocents I (jokingly) suggested on twitter that it was the PETG causing the issue. He didn't take it well


Lol, he also chose a very sensitive Pastel Color that is known to have issues if everything isn't at the right level chemically/pH, also the temperature range does (has been mentioned) mess with Pastel (coolant reaches above 25c (not 100% on the temp) it starts to breakdown the dyes/color reacts w/ the heat).


----------



## Way2grouchy

I like the colored dye.


----------



## Rahldrac

I guess I will have to postpone my build for a while and go out looking for screws. The screws that comes with the hardware labs Sr2 480 multiport, is not compatible with phanteks fans it seems.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ruined pants......
> 
> 
> 
> 21:9 is view fillingly awesome
> 
> 
> .


Amazing screen, LUMO my favourite mod of Bneg


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ruined pants......
> 
> 
> 
> 21:9 is view fillingly awesome.


what headset and mic is that. Is it sitting on a stand or is that something else?


----------



## sdmf74

which panel is that? His rigbuilder isnt updated. I need a new monitor & im scared to death to gamble on the Asus pg279q


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> what headset and mic is that. Is it sitting on a stand or is that something else?


Its the Corsair H2100 "Tramp Stamp Edition" on an In win Pro1 headphone stand.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ruined pants......
> 
> 
> 
> 21:9 is view fillingly awesome
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing screen, LUMO my favourite mod of Bneg
Click to expand...

Mine too. Got some more DFM builds going on after this 901.

Then something utterly amazing next year at Computex....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ruined pants......
> 
> 
> 
> 21:9 is view fillingly awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> what headset and mic is that. Is it sitting on a stand or is that something else?
Click to expand...

Corsair wireless with an In Win pro headset stand
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> which panel is that? His rigbuilder isnt updated. I need a new monitor & im scared to death to gamble on the Asus pg279q


Its an LG something um95 c


----------



## Way2grouchy

New mb will be here today along with a bunch more bitspower fittings when I get off work then I can get some more routing done


What r most people using to hook all the rad fans and lighting to as a control if you have no drive bays
something like this Be Quiet Dark Power PRO Power Supply or some other type of control


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> What r most people using to hook all the rad fans and lighting to as a control if you have no drive bays


I believe most people are using fan splitters/hubs and connect them to the mobo.
Something like this:


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> I believe most people are using fan splitters/hubs and connect them to the mobo.
> Something like this:


Cool thanks. So only one wire from that to the mb?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Cool thanks. So only one wire from that to the mb?


Exactly







Make sure your mobo can handle the current of your fans tho.
If it doesn't there are externally powered ones afaik.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Thanks


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hah. *He starting to become arrogant* since he started doing this YT thing fulltime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol, he also chose a very sensitive Pastel Color that is known to have issues if everything isn't at the right level chemically/pH, also the temperature range does (has been mentioned) mess with Pastel (coolant reaches above 25c (not 100% on the temp) it starts to breakdown the dyes/color reacts w/ the heat).


Yeah if I ever get like that on Ben and I's channel, someone please PM me. The sad thing was it sounded on twitter like he was trying to blame the HWLabs rads for it.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Cool thanks. So only one wire from that to the mb?


I would suggest the swiftech version. It uses SATA to power it and has one wire that hooks to a PWM header on your motherboard.


----------



## MIGhunter

Anyone know a good way to get ahold of performance pcc? I'm trying to order some fittings, I have bought so much there in the past month without any problems. Now all of a sudden, their credit card verification service is saying my billing address doesn't match the CC address and I can't seem to get around it. Didn't do this for any of my previous orders....


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Anyone know a good way to get ahold of performance pcc? I'm trying to order some fittings, I have bought so much there in the past month without any problems. Now all of a sudden, their credit card verification service is saying my billing address doesn't match the CC address and I can't seem to get around it. Didn't do this for any of my previous orders....


So, yesterday I did an order and tried to check out with PayPal and it didn't work, so I had to use a cc. I emailed and told them about it and if course they blamed it on paypal. Then later last night I went back to the Web site to look at some more stuff and it was down. not down like doing maintenance but down like off the grid.

So with my experience and now yours I would say they're working through issues. That was the first time ever I had a problem using them.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> So, yesterday I did an order and tried to check out with PayPal and it didn't work, so I had to use a cc. I emailed and told them about it and if course they blamed it on paypal. Then later last night I went back to the Web site to look at some more stuff and it was down. not down like doing maintenance but down like off the grid.
> 
> So with my experience and now yours I would say they're working through issues. That was the first time ever I had a problem using them.


anyone else good that sells EK fittings? This sucks, lol

Also, I tried ordering last night, no go. Then I noticed their site was down like you said, thought it would be ok this morning, still no go.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> anyone else good that sells EK fittings? This sucks, lol
> 
> Also, I tried ordering last night, no go. Then I noticed their site was down like you said, thought it would be ok this morning, still no go.


EK's webstore is where I would go next.


----------



## electro2u

try the mobile site maybe, worked for me last night


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> EK's webstore is where I would go next.


They don't have any nickel 90s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> try the mobile site maybe, worked for me last night


It wouldn't work for me, that's what I was doing was mobile. When it didn't work, I tried the main site from my PC


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> They don't have any nickel 90s
> It wouldn't work for me, that's what I was doing was mobile. When it didn't work, I tried the main site from my PC


Try www.dazmode.com or www.modmymods.com


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your mobo can handle the current of your fans tho.
> If it doesn't there are externally powered ones afaik.


I use that exact model in my build and the cable comes with external Molex 12V.


----------



## sdmf74

If you send PPC's an email they are really good at replying promptly


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> I use that exact model in my build and the cable comes with external Molex 12V.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I would suggest the swiftech version. It uses SATA to power it and has one wire that hooks to a PWM header on your motherboard.


Thanks for the help.

New mb and fittings came in today love the sabertooth!


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> If you send PPC's an email they are really good at replying promptly


I tried that, they said try PayPal. I've not been able to get PayPal to work for 6 months or more. My accounts are verified but I can't seem to use them, always get an error and their customer service is lacking an answer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Try www.dazmode.com or www.modmymods.com


Thanks, mods doesn't have EKWB. Dazmode is really expensive, $5 more per fitting than anywhere else. I'd just order from EKWB but for some reason they only have black 90 degree fittings.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Thanks, mods doesn't have EKWB. Dazmode is really expensive, $5 more per fitting than anywhere else. I'd just order from EKWB but for some reason they only have black 90 degree fittings.


Not the majority - but some do cost more because of the crappy CAN currency.

Have you tried the NCIX US website?

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?minorcatid=1289


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> 
> I guess I will have to postpone my build for a while and go out looking for screws. The screws that comes with the hardware labs Sr2 480 multiport, is not compatible with phanteks fans it seems.


Very common concern with the new hl rads. I believe I was told they're 28mm (vs 30mm standard). Try ebay and/or mcmastercarr. Amazon is a good 3rd choice. Personally, I love hex head screws.


----------



## khemist

Yeah, i had to buy longer screws for my two rads also.


----------



## Ceadderman

I got Koolance speed mounts for mine when I got it. They're worth it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Way2grouchy

D5 vario vs d5 pwm? Preference for anybody?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> D5 vario vs d5 pwm? Preference for anybody?


PWM is more convenient if you want to be able to adjust pump speed regularly.

I like being able to adjust the vario while bleeding a system and see no need to adjust the speed once it's set up.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> PWM is more convenient if you want to be able to adjust pump speed regularly.
> 
> I like being able to adjust the vario while bleeding a system and see no need to adjust the speed once it's set up.


Thanks. Dont think I will adjust it much. just to get it set up initially.


----------



## wermad

I left my vario @ 5 and can't hear it


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I left my vario @ 5 and can't hear it


Cool was wondering if the noise would be bad Im going from a bay pump res combo and never could hear it never used a stand alone pump.

specific brands to stay away from on the vario? Or maybe I should not word it that way. Is there a prefered brand to anybody?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Cool was wondering if the noise would be bad Im going from a bay pump res combo and never could hear it never used a stand alone pump.
> 
> specific brands to stay away from on the vario?


They are all the same. I've had a lot of trouble with pump noise and eventually settled on using the very lowest setting possible on the vario, which is indeed silent. Noise from D5s varies considerably, probably only due to different mounting situations and materials.

All D5 varios are exactly the same and made by Laing. They just get rebranded.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> They are all the same. I've had a lot of trouble with pump noise and eventually settled on using the very lowest setting possible on the vario, which is indeed silent. Noise from D5s varies considerably, probably only due to different mounting situations and materials.
> 
> All D5 varios are exactly the same and made by Laing. They just get rebranded.


Ok good to know thanks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> 
> I guess I will have to postpone my build for a while and go out looking for screws. The screws that comes with the hardware labs Sr2 480 multiport, is not compatible with phanteks fans it seems.


Take one (screw/bolt) with you to a local hardware store, match the threads then find the length you need







I try to snag all the ones I can find whenever I go to McMaster/Home Depot/etc


----------



## fast_fate

HWLabs rads mounting holes are M4 (coarse thread)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> HWLabs rads mounting holes are M4 (coarse thread)


which coarse thread pitch though?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> HWLabs rads mounting holes are M4 (coarse thread)
> 
> 
> 
> which coarse thread pitch though?
Click to expand...



Isn't there only the one M4 coarse thread pitch?


----------



## fast_fate

As far as I know alancsalt's snipped chart is correct.
M4 thread has the 2 variation of pitch; coarse and fine, which is why I put the coarse thread in brackets after M4.
Just trying to be helpful


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok didn't realize there weren't further variations of the coarse or fine


----------



## Ceadderman

My Black Ice Stealth is 6-32. So I would have to say it's always best to check the specs prior to purchase.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

So i'm shopping @ ppcs.com and I'm getting shockingly expensive shipping rates for some bp acrylic tube. The weight per unit is @ 9lbs (







). I added Mayhems glass tube and that shows 0.5lbs. Could it be an error and hence the high shipping??? I would think 3' rod of acrylic would weigh 0.9lbs vs 9lbs. Sure enough, if I only do the mayhems glass tube (500mm), its a very reasonable shipping price. I went to fcpu (they might still be open, and please, don't point this out being a s-a) and the shipping rates are close to the mayhems. For a minute, I was ready to boycott ppcs.com as they tend to be on the higher side of shipping. I'll shoot them an email questioning the unit weight (which helps determine shipping rates. Btw, if you wanna try it, give it a go. I got $40 as the cheapest shipping, mayhems ~$12, and fcpu (same bp rod) $14.


----------



## smithydan

I'm have seen some extra pounds on other items from them as well, so not sure exactly what they do or how they determine the weight. I even compared some weights to amazon and other sites and they are way more then what it is.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So i'm shopping @ ppcs.com and I'm getting shockingly expensive shipping rates for some bp acrylic tube. The weight per unit is @ 9lbs (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I added Mayhems glass tube and that shows 0.5lbs. Could it be an error and hence the high shipping??? I would think 3' rod of acrylic would weigh 0.9lbs vs 9lbs. Sure enough, if I only do the mayhems glass tube (500mm), its a very reasonable shipping price. I went to fcpu (they might still be open, and please, don't point this out being a s-a) and the shipping rates are close to the mayhems. For a minute, I was ready to boycott ppcs.com as they tend to be on the higher side of shipping. I'll shoot them an email questioning the unit weight (which helps determine shipping rates. Btw, if you wanna try it, give it a go. I got $40 as the cheapest shipping, mayhems ~$12, and fcpu (same bp rod) $14.


Yea, I found kinda the same thing when I was ordering Bitspower tubing for the lighted res mods in the S8 build..

As soon as you have more than 2 or 3 pieces of tubing, the shipping just goes thru the roof with each piece you add.

If you have several sizes or colors, and only a few pieces of each, it doesn't get crazy like more than 4 pieces of any one tubing does.

This is especially true of tubing that comes in 1M length, since the shipping box has to be more than 3' long.

Darlene


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My Black Ice Stealth is 6-32. So I would have to say it's always best to check the specs prior to purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's not an M4 metric screw though, but a UTS (Unified Thread Standard), measured in TPI (Threads Per Inch) - 6 gauge, 32 threads per inch.

Useful article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_case_screws Computer screws are a mixed bunch.


----------



## kizwan

Strange. My HL Black Ice GT Stealth use M4 screws.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Not the majority - but some do cost more because of the crappy CAN currency.
> 
> Have you tried the NCIX US website?
> 
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/?minorcatid=1289


Didn't even think of NCIX. Thanks, just placed my order. It's a shame that after a week of talking to performance, they basically said it's not our problem. I personally have spent $1000 there in the past 2.5 weeks. They just lost a customer most likely. I know of 1 member on here who had the same problem but was able to use PayPal. I wonder how many other people are getting declined. Such poor business habits not to be on top of fixing a credit card verification issue.


----------



## D33G33

Getting ready to tube up.

dual rad x99 NCASE build.



So close to the end!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Not the majority - but some do cost more because of the crappy CAN currency.
> 
> Have you tried the NCIX US website?
> 
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/?minorcatid=1289
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't even think of NCIX. Thanks, just placed my order. It's a shame that after a week of talking to performance, they basically said it's not our problem. I personally have spent $1000 there in the past 2.5 weeks. They just lost a customer most likely. I know of 1 member on here who had the same problem but was able to use PayPal. I wonder how many other people are getting declined. Such poor business habits not to be on top of fixing a credit card verification issue.
Click to expand...

I found that the easiest way to get the PPCs website to work for me, being in the Virgin Islands, is to buy internal credits, which doesn't need a shipping address paying by paypal, and then checkout my cart paying via internal credits.

It's kind of an inconvenient 2 step process, but the new site errors if I try to check out directly and pay with paypal.

D.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Getting ready to tube up.
> 
> dual rad x99 NCASE build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So close to the end!


Nice job


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yea, I found kinda the same thing when I was ordering Bitspower tubing for the lighted res mods in the S8 build..
> 
> As soon as you have more than 2 or 3 pieces of tubing, the shipping just goes thru the roof with each piece you add.
> 
> If you have several sizes or colors, and only a few pieces of each, it doesn't get crazy like more than 4 pieces of any one tubing does.
> 
> This is especially true of tubing that comes in 1M length, since the shipping box has to be more than 3' long.
> 
> Darlene


I'll wait for their reply. It just doesn't make sense but again, it could just be their policy, due to the "odd" size package required for a meter of acrylic. I calculated I need a few runs of 600-700mm for the new loop I'm planning. I don't wanna go with a joint with two sticks.
'


----------



## jvillaveces

In this post I promised to come back with a better set of pictures. I got a tripod, turned off the flash. and used a good camera instead of my cell phone, and they are undoubtedly better, even if still far from the quality of the photography usually seen in this thread. Anyway, here are the final pictures for Project Plasma.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Definite improvement









I would recommend a diffuser for your lighting (soften the harshness of the lighting) also could try a different drop cloth of a darker shade as well. But in all looks good (build and photos)


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So i'm shopping @ ppcs.com and I'm getting shockingly expensive shipping rates for some bp acrylic tube. The weight per unit is @ 9lbs (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I added Mayhems glass tube and that shows 0.5lbs. Could it be an error and hence the high shipping??? I would think 3' rod of acrylic would weigh 0.9lbs vs 9lbs. Sure enough, if I only do the mayhems glass tube (500mm), its a very reasonable shipping price. I went to fcpu (they might still be open, and please, don't point this out being a s-a) and the shipping rates are close to the mayhems. For a minute, I was ready to boycott ppcs.com as they tend to be on the higher side of shipping. I'll shoot them an email questioning the unit weight (which helps determine shipping rates. Btw, if you wanna try it, give it a go. I got $40 as the cheapest shipping, mayhems ~$12, and fcpu (same bp rod) $14.


The most meaningful metrics for shipping rates are dimensions ( in the U.S. - weight does figure in, but...). How much space (or cubic feet) will this item take up during shipment. That is why odd sized/shaped shipment that may weigh very little can cost a lot of money. Can the shipper stack other loads on it (go up in the air), how space must be allotted for it? Does it require special handling/considerations? These rates can be negotiated between shipper/carrier, but only to a point and usually have a minimum per cu. ft., much like mechanics charging $XXX.XX per hour with a 1 hr minimum. Also, shipping rates can vary immensely from carrier to carrier.

*Let's take a look!*



There is a definite discrepancy between the Bitspower brand and the E22 brand tubing shipping rates, especially using the USPS. Each example was checked twice for correctness sake. This is concerning should a person need only a section or two of tubing.

All this being stated, PPCS has provided me with exemplary service, including taking a box off the truck to facilitate a last minute change I requested. Having worked at a business where we had to do the same thing almost daily, some businesses actually do this sort of thing.

I have found the same issue with shipping fees at small businesses when ordering small amounts from the west coast (I reside in NC - east coast). A single 120mm costs $19.95 + $5.60 shipping, 2 fans $8.95. 3 at 11.50-plus. Until the item number gets up to about 12 or so fans, the shipping fees make the transaction cost inefficient. Either way, I pay for the cost of 1 to 2 fans in shipping fees, depending on the number of fans total obviously.








You will now be returned to your regularly scheduled topic.


----------



## wermad

Thanks for the input









Wonder if they ship via tube. I'll give ppcs.com a chance to clarify this. Though, I might just risk it w/ fcpu.com if someone who has ordered recently from them and has gotten their gear w/out any problems. Paypal would be my recourse if it goes south with fcpu.

edit

Found E22 100cm (1000mm) tube on ppcs, unit weight 1.5lbs. For four sticks, its $13 shipping. Bp four 100cm sticks, $30. Its gotta be an error as the more expensive E22 of the same length is cheaper to ship. I can use this to point out a probable error. I'm hoping it is as I only found Titan rig selling four packs of 50cm through amazon.


----------



## alltheGHz

Would you veteran water coolers recommend a run comprised of 45 degree runs? I have a bunch of them and wanna try something different.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Would you veteran water coolers recommend a run comprised of 45 degree runs? I have a bunch of them and wanna try something different.


I see no difference in using 45° turns over 30 or 90. If your system is expansive, the less dramatic the turns, the less resistance to flow you would experience. Though it has been shown that using angled fittings cause little to no appreciable difference in flow rate. I wish I could cite the source, but I can't think of it at the moment.

But... why not! Just DO-EET!


----------



## wermad

Got a reply from ppcs.com,
Quote:


> Hello,
> 
> No it is correct the 1 meter rods go to a dimensional shipping weight of 9 pounds due to the size of the ship box. ...


Its just unbelievable a meter E22 ships for less on their site. I replied that the E22 meter acrylic ships for less and it costs more! I don't know...guess I'll put this on hold.

So either, they're playing with the prices or they prefer to pamper BP tube with extra packing, or they don't like E22.....

Meh











edit: 1000mm BP and 100*cm* E22. The rep suggested the 500mm ones, turns out its the same shipping as the 1000m (same quantity of four :confusing. No good


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I see no difference in using 45° turns over 30 or 90. If your system is expansive, the less dramatic the turns, the less resistance to flow you would experience. Though it has been shown that using angled fittings cause little to no appreciable difference in flow rate. I wish I could cite the source, but I can't think of it at the moment.
> 
> But... why not! Just DO-EET!


Thanks, I am planning out the loop right now.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got a reply from ppcs.com,
> Its just unbelievable a meter E22 ships for less on their site. I replied that the E22 meter acrylic ships for less and it costs more! I don't know...guess I'll put this on hold.
> 
> So either, they're playing with the prices or they prefer to pamper BP tube with extra packing, or they don't like E22.....
> 
> Meh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: 1000mm BP and 100*cm* E22. The rep suggested the 500mm ones, turns out its the same shipping as the 1000m (same quantity of four :confusing. No good


I got a second reply and they will look into it and get back to me. Again, it seems strange that E22 ships cheaper for the same length and bp 1000 and 500 are the same shipping rate (after being told 500 is cheaper to ship). I hope they clear this up as E22 shipping seems more reasonable but I wants the BP deep red or new loop on back burner....


----------



## IT Diva

It may be that whoever programmed the system, looked at the 100cm, and read it as 100mm, so didn't price the E22 shipping correctly, or since the long BP tubing is a newer product, by the time it was programmed in, they learned to correct for the packing box size. . .

Although getting the same shipping for the shorter tubes then doesn't make much sense.

Hope they get it answered, . . . .

D.


----------



## RnRollie

maybe the packaging for 500mm and 1000mm is the same ?
Just a cardboard "tube" approx 1050mm long , and in that case you are paying volumetric rate, doesn't matter if it contain ONE 1000mm long or TWO 500mm long tubes...
Damn, need pics to explain this









EDIT:
let me put it like this: I used to work for DHL, we only had a few different shaped/sized containers. As long as the payload for the airlifted container did not exceed 3500 Kgs, you could put in there what you wanted (within reason), whether it were bricks or ping-pong balls or rabbits, the volumetric price was the same as if it were a "full" 3500 Kgs container.
Once you exceeded 3500 Kgs, you paid an extra on top..
We did not have containers specially designed for Ping-Pong balls, or specially for Bricks, that would not be economical.
We DID have special containers for lifestock thou









I can imagine that the Acryll/PETG tubes ship in a cardboard rectangular , flat "box" about 4 tubes wide and one tube thick and about 1meter long. Which can hold either 4x 1000mm tubes or 8x 500mm tubes or 16x 250mm tubes
Probably there is a "smaller" box about 30cm long which can hold either 4 or 8 250mm tubes

Anyways, just guessing


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It may be that whoever programmed the system, looked at the 100cm, and read it as 100mm, so didn't price the E22 shipping correctly, or since the long BP tubing is a newer product, by the time it was programmed in, they learned to correct for the packing box size. . .
> 
> Although getting the same shipping for the shorter tubes then doesn't make much sense.
> 
> Hope they get it answered, . . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> maybe the packaging for 500mm and 1000mm is the same ?
> Just a cardboard "tube" approx 1050mm long , and in that case you are paying volumetric rate, doesn't matter if it contain ONE 1000mm long or TWO 500mm long tubes...
> Damn, need pics to explain this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> let me put it like this: I used to work for DHL, we only had a few different shaped/sized containers. As long as the payload for the airlifted container did not exceed 3500 Kgs, you could put in there what you wanted (within reason), whether it were bricks or ping-pong balls or rabbits, the volumetric price was the same as if it were a "full" 3500 Kgs container.
> Once you exceeded 3500 Kgs, you paid an extra on top..
> We did not have containers specially designed for Ping-Pong balls, or specially for Bricks, that would not be economical.
> We DID have special containers for lifestock thou
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can imagine that the Acryll/PETG tubes ship in a cardboard rectangular , flat "box" about 4 tubes wide and one tube thick and about 1meter long. Which can hold either 4x 1000mm tubes or 8x 500mm tubes or 16x 250mm tubes
> Probably there is a "smaller" box about 30cm long which can hold either 4 or 8 250mm tubes
> 
> Anyways, just guessing
Click to expand...

Yup, I do know the odd-sized units may have additional pricing added. I know usps will classify an odd-sized package once one dimension exceeds 24". Just doesn't make sense to charge more for the same shipping on two similar items (both in type and dimension). The E22 is under a pound per unit and so I would think the BP would be similar.

@Diva, possibly, but Primochill 3/8x1/2 36" 4 pack ships for the same rate as E22. I'm sure primochill had the tube before BP (I could be wrong







).


----------



## Gabrielzm

On another subject what happened to the MOTM competition? Is on hold still or will never happen again?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> On another subject what happened to the MOTM competition? Is on hold stil or will never happen again?


IIRC, it died when OCN got sold over to Wikia. Real shame, honestly. I know some winners who never got their prize money, either...


----------



## wermad

Got a reply from Marina @ ppcs. The fees are what they want for Bitspower, despite E22 and Primochill being cheaper to ship. According to her, its how they also treat their international orders (starts at a higher weight).

I'll try frozencpu....I can't pay $30-40 in shipping for a $15 order in the US. Seems like price manipulation to me since BP is cheaper. Oh well, I'll wait for another retailer to get this or does anyone know where to get 12mm od red acrylic?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got a reply from Marina @ ppcs. The fees are what they want for Bitspower, despite E22 and Primochill being cheaper to ship. According to her, its how they also treat their international orders (starts at a higher weight).
> 
> I'll try frozencpu....I can't pay $30-40 in shipping for a $15 order in the US. Seems like price manipulation to me since BP is cheaper. Oh well, I'll wait for another retailer to get this or does anyone know where to get 12mm od red acrylic?


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017JQ6ESO?keywords=bitspower%2012%20mm%20OD%20red%20tube&qid=1448311947&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

this one wer?


----------



## wermad

I need at least two 1000mm. Don't want to use fittings. I'll try to rework the proposed layout but I'm happy with this route. I'll ask titan rig if they have or can get 1000mm sticks.

Edit: they only have ice red and I'm looking for deep red. Thought I saw it at this seller.... (???).


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I need at least two 1000mm. Don't want to use fittings. I'll try to rework the proposed layout but I'm happy with this route. I'll ask titan rig if they have or can get 1000mm sticks.


this. Call them. Shipping should be cheap due to amazon. Also maybe you can check UK suppliers. Sometimes shipping from UK would be on par with within US, specially if PPC is charging to much for shipping. There are some stores in UK that carry the tube.

edit - also perhaps http://www.mcmaster.com/# will carry?

edit 2 - pity about the MOTM competition...I don't care about the money or gifts prizes but the competition was good....@B NEGATIVE what about us taking the lead here and start a MOTM like competition within this thread just for the kinks?


----------



## wermad

In red, I doubt it. I may just get barrow 12mm and drop in some pastel. I tried aquatuning but they're only running 14mm od. Uk shops will probably charge as much as ppcs.com, so I might as well go with them. I'll research it a bit more.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I need at least two 1000mm. Don't want to use fittings. I'll try to rework the proposed layout but I'm happy with this route. I'll ask titan rig if they have or can get 1000mm sticks.
> 
> 
> 
> this. Call them. Shipping should be cheap due to amazon. Also maybe you can check UK suppliers. Sometimes shipping from UK would be on par with within US, specially if PPC is charging to much for shipping. There are some stores in UK that carry the tube.
> 
> edit - also perhaps http://www.mcmaster.com/# will carry?
> 
> edit 2 - pity about the MOTM competition...I don't care about the money or gifts prizes but the competition was good....@B NEGATIVE what about us taking the lead here and start a MOTM like competition within this thread just for the kinks?
Click to expand...

Why not? Sounds interesting.

I dont understand why they ditched it tho.


----------



## rodaduck

if your talking about performance pcs they suck with there shipping , I ordered 5 fitting and they charged me 13 dollars for a box I could of fit 500 in , this are the same flat rate boxes from the post office and I know there is a 6 dollar box and it happens all the time I sent pics never got a response I sure do miss frozen cpu I never felt like I was getting screwed


----------



## rodaduck

cool start it ive been building a rig for the last year I wanted to put into the contest , any contest for that matter , im getting close , and its pretty bad ass .. corsair air 540 , I call it R.I.P dedicated to my brother , but it is now and open air 540 with duel loop everything modified . my first build


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> cool start it ive been building a rig for the last year I wanted to put into the contest , any contest for that matter , im getting close , and its pretty bad ass .. corsair air 540 , I call it R.I.P dedicated to my brother , but it is now and open air 540 with duel loop everything modified . my first build


Your brother died? Sorry for your loss.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> if your talking about performance pcs they suck with there shipping , I ordered 5 fitting and they charged me 13 dollars for a box I could of fit 500 in , this are the same flat rate boxes from the post office and I know there is a 6 dollar box and it happens all the time I sent pics never got a response I sure do miss frozen cpu I never felt like I was getting screwed


I can't find this color anywhere else. Even bitspower doesn't list this color. I may just have to bite the bullet on this one


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can't find this color anywhere else. Even bitspower doesn't list this color. I may just have to bite the bullet on this one


I've never known wermad to just bite the bullet...


----------



## wermad

That or clear, but I want to run red acyrlic tube (don't like the "ice" red tbh. I don't want to go through the hassle of maintining a colored loop. I'll check uk ebay if there's any red 12mm tube there. I know some sellers will ship to the US.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> On another subject what happened to the MOTM competition? Is on hold still or will never happen again?


I know I was looking forward to seeing my build get stomped on


----------



## rodaduck

I understand that's what I've been doing , I've spent almost 2000 this year with them and did not want to , I would like to see mainframe customs get bigger and expand I like buying from them they just don't have anything other then sleeving and odds and ends , and on top of that I tried getting some help from ppcs and the response I got was just stupid and uncalled for . I found the pic of how they shop there small parts when I know dam well there is a lower cost box because I got 

the pic of that when I had to return some parts and sent both pics never a response . so I ya I bit the bullet all the time


----------



## wermad

From prior purchases, if the shipment is under a lb, it can go priority $5, or first class if its under 13 oz. The way they calculate shipping is just a guess imho. That's why I used to shop both fcpu and ppcs.com. Even though fcpu may have been a tad more expensive per item, shipping was much more reasonable and about right for the weight. I'm really disappointed and probably call it quits. I 've seen a ton of 12mm hard line builds but I would have never guessed 12mm tube is such a hassle to obtain. I've already calculated the fittings I'll need and its very expensive for me. So anywhere else I can save a few bucks will ease the pain (and yelling from the wifey







).


----------



## funfordcobra

New thing for the thing


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Got my system drained, cleaned up and ready to go over the last 3 days.
More than i expected, but there's was a lot of cleaning to be done for sure.



Some pics from the process:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











The pastel portion of the fluid caked the insides of the radiators and it took numerous rounds of flushing with water alone, Vinegar and warm water, and finally Mayhem's "Blitz Pro" kit to get them properly clean.
But the fluid is going to stay clear from now on.
I also replaced the bottom radiator fans with some Corsair SP 120's i had lying about, since e-loops make tons of noise against vents/radiators..

Temps look still good, and it runs as it should~
i7 4770K @ 4.4GHz ~65C
GTX 780Ti @1300 MHz ~38C


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hobbsmeerkat*
> 
> Got my system drained, cleaned up and ready to go over the last 3 days.
> More than i expected, but there's was a lot of cleaning to be done for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Some pics from the process:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pastel portion of the fluid caked the insides of the radiators and it took numerous rounds of flushing with water alone, Vinegar and warm water, and finally Mayhem's "Blitz Pro" kit to get them properly clean.
> But the fluid is going to stay clear from now on.
> I also replaced the bottom radiator fans with some Corsair SP 120's i had lying about, since e-loops make tons of noise against vents/radiators..
> 
> Temps look still good, and it runs as it should~
> i7 4770K @ 4.4GHz ~65C
> GTX 780Ti @1300 MHz ~38C


I remember cleaning up a loop with a dye bomb that went wrong. Lots of gunk and separation. The sunset yellow pastel was pretty solid and no separation, though I had it in for a few months.

I got a response from ppcs.com (







) that seems hopeful. I'll let you guys know what transpires when I place my order.


----------



## Ceadderman

On the shipping cost from PPCs, I suggest going with UPS or FedEx Ground. You pay less generally and almost zero chance of a lost shipment. I've experienced a couple of fouled shipping issues with USPS and I suggest staying away from that potential headache. My experience was both purchase and shipping.

When I send $50 worth of parts to someone and am notified it's undeliverable as addressed, I expect to get it back. I shipped over a year ago and never got it back. To make matters worse, USPS denied my claim based on their BullPuckey requirements. They want sales receipts and I purchased the parts 5 years previous. No shipping receipts available and the place of purchase is no longer in business. Yay me. I could get my original shipping refunded, but that's $45 I am out with their ridiculousness.

The other issue was prior to that and it was a shipment from PPCs which they shipped and USPS lost. PPCs made good on it and I appreciate that.

Sad how low USPS has gotten since a certain politician dropped them and the Government backed pension system from the US Payroll. Humbug!









As far as packing goes, I cannot defend the size of the container. Only can say that if you know the size of the USPS flat rate boxes and you know the cost involved, you don't have to overpay that cost. Contact them prior to pulling the trigger to and let them know their shipping estimate is too high. I'm reasonably sure they would have fixed it prior to shipping. Their picker is handcuffed to the Estimate. If the estimate says $10 and you paid it, they're required to put the parts in the corresponding box.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Yeah, all the prices I'm referring to are the cheapest available.

Ordered placed for six rods of BP 12mm tube







. Waiting on ppcs.com to assist me with the final steps. Marina mentioned they'll be looking into these shipping differences to help future buyers. I really can't say what they'll change (if any) but I'm sure we'll see it on the site if it happens. Not in a rush since I have a lot of more hardware to deal with.

Now, to order some fittings


----------



## rodaduck

feb 20 2014 . he was murdered with 2 young ladies and another guy in Indiana , up til thin I haven't been into pc and I was trying to keep my self busy and knew he like playing games so I started getting into pc again after 15 years , and started building this pc as a tribute to him , and its been a pain in the ass just like he was , ive been working on this thing since april last year , end of dec lost my job so that put a kink in completion and its been that will get finished one way or another , and for my first build I think it turned out pretty damn good ., its funny at the time I bought everything it was all the best stuff , but I think ill keep this one as it is, I already have plans for another custom ..so this one will be working with a
maximus vii formula
4790k
titan blacks sli
dominator 16g
evga 1300 psu
250g Samsung ssd and a 500 g
1t western dig black
all prolima slim fans
xspc razer water blocks for the titans
full cover block from bitspower for the cpu and ram
2 270ml photon res with d5 pumps on a duel loop
and xspc rx v3 rads one 240 and a 360
its worthy of the cause and I cant wait to finish it


----------



## wermad

That sucks dude. Condolences to you and your family. Tribute build is pretty special imho.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Still waiting on cpu and cpu block but leak testing and testing if I like the routing so far before I break it down and do some more stuff to the case.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Why are you bothering to leak test to break it all down?

BTW,air is better for leak testing.


----------



## Kimir

Leak test with air is so much better indeed. Once you've tried it, you can never go back. Kudos for the tutorial B Neg!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why not? Sounds interesting.
> 
> I dont understand why they ditched it tho.


Nice. I think would be fun if we do it. Perhaps separate into categories and every 2 months or so one poll for one of those categories.

BTW folks for those about to pull the trigger coupons for ppc:

With the holidays right around the corner we sure you want to be grab some of the latest hardware and mod gear we have to offer. So enjoy these coupons for the Thanksgiving week and stay tuned for our Black Friday and Cyber Monday deals!

Spend $50 and get 6% off: "TGIVING15-6"
Spend $250 and get 8% off: "TGIVING15-8"
Spend $500 or more and get 10% off: "TGIVING15-10"


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why are you bothering to leak test to break it all down?
> 
> BTW,air is better for leak testing.


Bad wording on my part. Never used acrylic was just curious I used all three different fittings. I was a little worried about the minis wondering if they might leak. Yea air would be better. Wasn't wanting to break it down but found a couple things I need to do to the case and don't want the hardware in there when I do it. Kind of wanted to see what the routing looked like with coolant in also. Not a serious leak test.

BTW How do you like that monitor I have had that one in my cart for a while and scared to pull the trigger?


----------



## Domler

Thanks B for the tutorial on air testing. Saved my butt twice this weekend. Cpu block wasn't holding and would have really sucked to find out after I reassembled my loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why are you bothering to leak test to break it all down?
> 
> BTW,air is better for leak testing.
> 
> 
> 
> Bad wording on my part. Never used acrylic was just curious I used all three different fittings. I was a little worried about the minis wondering if they might leak. Yea air would be better. Wasn't wanting to break it down but found a couple things I need to do to the case and don't want the hardware in there when I do it. Kind of wanted to see what the routing looked like with coolant in also. Not a serious leak test.
> 
> BTW How do you like that monitor I have had that one in my cart for a while and scared to pull the trigger?
Click to expand...

Its good! A bit of IPS glow in the bottom left corner but its livable.

Wrapped the desk in matt anthracite film today while im waiting on stuff for projects.


----------



## Way2grouchy

That looks awesome B!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@B NEGATIVE

How you do get a keyboard with no number Pad?



TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just look for a TKL (Ten Key Less)


----------



## wermad

Seems like there's still some life in fcpu.com:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Look what showed up at my door today.


I wouldn't get trigger happy yet. Please check that thread and read carefully. I'm glad it worked out for roll-dog as that would have given me an alternative if ppcs.com couldn't pull through.

Some one did go to the location and it looked to be no one was in the building. This stuff is in that thread btw.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why are you bothering to leak test to break it all down?
> 
> BTW,air is better for leak testing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Leak test with air is so much better indeed. Once you've tried it, you can never go back. Kudos for the tutorial B Neg!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its good! A bit of IPS glow in the bottom left corner but its livable.
> 
> Wrapped the desk in matt anthracite film today while im waiting on stuff for projects.


Where is this air leak test tutorial?

What mouse pad is that?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Where is this air leak test tutorial?
> 
> What mouse pad is that?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101

That would be the corsair gaming mm200 extended


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> 
> How you do get a keyboard with no number Pad?
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Bneg has TKL keyboard, but what about this?


----------



## AresTheGod

Hi everyone!
I'd like to get an CL SM8 and I would need a WC but with some acrylic! I already choose some pieces but it's my first WC soo I need your help!
About the Hardware I got this:
-MoBo : Asus RoG Ranger VIII
-CPU : I7 6700K
-GPU : 980 Ti from MSI

I already bought the WB for the CPU and this is what I want to take :
-Pump : Alphacool VPP655
-Reservoir : XSPC Photon 270
-Tubbing : I don't realy know what I should take?
-Fitting : Same as the tubbing
-Rads : Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 360/Aquacomputer 360 rad and Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 480/Aquacomputer 480
-Fans : Corsair blue fan.
-WB GPU : EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel

What do you think about this, and what should I change?
Thanks!


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> 
> How you do get a keyboard with no number Pad?
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Corsair has an option that you can switch to use the arrows or ten keys.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I am saying I couldn't buy a keyboard without a number pad.

TCO


----------



## AresTheGod

It's not soo disturbing, and it has the adventage of taking less place


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have the Cooler Master Quickfire TK, great mech kb w/ number pad but still compact


I want a TKL next to cut down on space and I really dont use the number pad that often


----------



## Questors

You can't go wrong with CaseLabs, that's a great start. I am assuming you have already made sure the waterblocks are compatible with the hardware you have selected.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> I already bought the WB for the CPU and this is what I want to take :
> 
> -Pump : Alphacool VPP655 *<= same pump as other brands - all made by Laing - just depends on your preference of PWM (D5 PWM) or not, variable speed control at pump (D5 Vario) and which pump top/kit you desire. In the end, when mixing brands (which is fine), make sure the designs match aesthetically in the overall build.*
> 
> -Reservoir : XSPC Photon 270 *<= Have zero problem with XSPC stuff, if this is what you want, have at it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Tubing : I don't realy know what I should take? *<= This is going to depend on the brand and size of the fittings you choose. If the fittings are measured in MM first, it is metric and any INCH measurements are an approximation. Best to use tubing with metric sizing. The same applies for fittings and tubing where the first dimensions is INCH. Example: 12mm OD x 10mm ID, you may also see 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID as listed dimensions. Since 12mm is actually between 7/16" and 1/2", the measurement of 1/2" is used and 3/8 is considered to be the equivalent to 10mm. Neither conversion is accurate and thus tubing and fittings may not be compatible. About tubing material - PETG is said to be easier to work with, but microscopically porous (allows evaporation), may possibly stain with dyes/colors and less clear. The opposite has been said to hold true for acrylic. If using colored tubing, dyes/coloring agents are a non-factor obviously.*
> 
> -Fitting : Same as the tubbing *<= This is going to be a preference thing. Some hardline fittings use a single O-ring, others a double O-ring (Example: Bitspower C47/C48) to secure the tubing into the fitting by pushing the tube into the fitting and some fittings use a compression ring with a second O-ring as means to secure the rigid tube in place; Bitspower Enhance Multi-Link are an example of these. I am not pushing Bitspower brand, just an examples of the two types of rigid fittings for acrylic (compression and push-in fittings). I have used both and like compression best, but push fittings have their place. End to end - straight lines are ideal for push fittings (SLI bridges, short straight runs between blocks). Compression fittings are ideal for tubing with bends, where end to end pressure is not a factor in holding the tubing in place. That is not to say either can't be used or both in different places within the build.*
> 
> -Rads : Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 360/Aquacomputer 360 rad and Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 480/Aquacomputer 480 *<= One word: Hardware Labs -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> er... two words then... they cost a bit more, but by any account I have read, are worth it. I am currently in the middle of a build and have 2 SR2-360-MPs mounted up. The quality feel of the radiators is like nothing I have experienced thus far. The Black Matter finish is nice (not available on the SR2-MP series) SR2's can be painted if you prefer. HWLabs also has pre-painted rads. Other radiators - XSPC RX or AX series rads. I have extensive experience with the AX Series. The aluminum housing around the rad will spoil you. It is a shroud, casing, and mount all in one. There is plenty of travel distance for screws without damaging the radiator, easy to take apart and reassemble when cleaning is necessary too. Due to the housing, the AXs are slightly longer than other rads.*
> 
> -Fans : Corsair blue fan. *<= I am not sure which blue fan? Blue rings on the fan? At any rate, I would look at the Gentle Typhoons or EKs Vardar fans. The GTs have proven time and time again they are about the best radiator fans one can purchase. The Vardar series from EK is doing a great job in that respect as well. They both offer a range of speed & CFM if you are looking for air flow*
> 
> -WB GPU : EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel *<= I have used WaterCool and EK waterblocks with great success. If you don't want to display this part of the flow path (IE clear plexi tops), the acetal-nickel block is a good way to go.*


My


----------



## B NEGATIVE

With the In Win 901 build finally starting after a 5 month wait,I thought I had better get the photoskills sharpened up......


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> With the In Win 901 build finally starting after a 5 month wait,I thought I had better get the photoskills sharpened up......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those pics are looking quite nice already, cant wait. There will be a build log right?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> With the In Win 901 build finally starting after a 5 month wait,I thought I had better get the photoskills sharpened up......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those pics are looking quite nice already, cant wait. There will be a build log right?
Click to expand...

Yup.

I was thinking of building it THEN doing the log.....One big fat splurge of pron.


----------



## AresTheGod

Thanks for the answer! I think I'll buy on Highflow as you recommended me !
Quote:


> -Pump : Alphacool VPP655 <= same pump as other brands - all made by Laing - just depends on your preference of PWM (D5 PWM) or not, variable speed control at pump (D5 Vario) and which pump top/kit you desire. In the end, when mixing brands (which is fine), make sure the designs match aesthetically in the overall build.


Ok soo just the design isn't the same everywhere. I think I'll keep this pump, like his design








Quote:


> -Reservoir : XSPC Photon 270 <= Have zero problem with XSPC stuff, if this is what you want, have at it! biggrin.gif











Quote:


> -Tubing : I don't realy know what I should take? <= This is going to depend on the brand and size of the fittings you choose. If the fittings are measured in MM first, it is metric and any INCH measurements are an approximation. Best to use tubing with metric sizing. The same applies for fittings and tubing where the first dimensions is INCH. Example: 12mm OD x 10mm ID, you may also see 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID as listed dimensions. Since 12mm is actually between 7/16" and 1/2", the measurement of 1/2" is used and 3/8 is considered to be the equivalent to 10mm. Neither conversions are accurate and thus tubing and fittings may not be compatible. About tubing material - PETG is said to be easier to work with, but microscopically porous (allows evaporation), may possibly stain with dyes/colors and less clear. The opposite has been said to hold true for acrylic. If using colored tubing, dyes/coloring agents are a non-factor obviously.


Mh interresting soo I must be aware about the size of the tube.I think i'll take some transparent acrylic with blue coolent
Quote:


> This is going to be a preference thing. Some hardline fittings use a single or double O-ring (Example: Bitspower C47/C48) to secure the tubing into the fitting by pushing the tube into the fitting and some fittings use a compression ring with a second O-ring as to secure the rigid tube in place; Bitspower Enhance Multi-Link are an example of these. I am not pushing Bitspower brand, just an examples of the two types of rigid fittings for acrylic (compression and push-in fittings). I have used both and like compression best, but push fittings have their place. End to end - straight lines are ideal for push fittings (SLI bridges, short straight runs between blocks). Compression fittings are ideal for tubing with bends, where end to end pressure is not a factor in holding the tubing in place. That is not to say either can't be used or both in different places within the build.


I think I'll get compression fittings because I'd like to make alot of bends








I often see Bitspower fittings on mod, soo I suppose it's a good quality!
Quote:


> -Fans : Corsair blue fan. <= I am not sure which blue fan? Blue rings on the fan? At any rate, I would look at the Gentle Typhoons or EKs Vardar fans. The GTs have proven time and time again they are about the best radiator fans one can purchase. The Vardar series from EK is doing a great job in that respect as well. They both offer a range of speed & CFM if you are looking for air flow


I meant those with blue led ( http://www.highflow.nl/fans/ventilatoren/corsair-nl-2/corsair-air-series-sp120-high-performance-edition-led-blue-1650rpm-twin-pack-co-9050031-ww.html ), wanted to take them because of the led but b4 wanted to take the Vadar, but seems that it isn't worth, soo I go on Gentle Typhoons (http://www.highflow.nl/fans/ventilatoren/120mm-nl/nidec-120mm-gentle-typhoon-performance-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition.html)
Quote:


> -WB GPU : EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel <= I have used WaterCool and EK waterblocks with great success. If you don't want to display this part of the flow path (IE clear plexi tops), the acetal-nickel block is a good way to go.


Yeah, I'm actually hesistating but I think that i'll take acetal-nickel, cover more space than the Nickel only one

And again thanks for the answers


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> With the In Win 901 build finally starting after a 5 month wait,I thought I had better get the photoskills sharpened up......
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Definitly looks realy good! Still suprised by the size of the Asus Impact..


----------



## wermad

You guys think an enhanced 12mm acrylic fitting with a short tube and a bp drain valve at the end will hold up? Or too much weight? This is an alternative option instead of using a long extension + male-male and the valve for a drainage system.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You guys think an enhanced 12mm acrylic fitting with a short tube and a bp drain valve at the end will hold up? Or too much weight? This is an alternative option instead of using a long extension + male-male and the valve for a drainage system.


It would probably hold, but I am the living example of Murphy's Law: If there is anything that can go wrong, it will. I might run that down to a level surface, or just above and use some type of unobtrusive holder/clamp/device to secure it there.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Thanks for the answer! I think I'll buy on Highflow as you recommended me !
> Ok soo just the design isn't the same everywhere. I think I'll keep this pump, like his design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mh interresting soo I must be aware about the size of the tube.I think i'll take some transparent acrylic with blue coolent
> I think I'll get compression fittings because I'd like to make alot of bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I often see Bitspower fittings on mod, soo I suppose it's a good quality!
> I meant those with blue led ( http://www.highflow.nl/fans/ventilatoren/corsair-nl-2/corsair-air-series-sp120-high-performance-edition-led-blue-1650rpm-twin-pack-co-9050031-ww.html ), wanted to take them because of the led but b4 wanted to take the Vadar, but seems that it isn't worth, soo I go on Gentle Typhoons (http://www.highflow.nl/fans/ventilatoren/120mm-nl/nidec-120mm-gentle-typhoon-performance-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition.html)
> Yeah, I'm actually hesistating but I think that i'll take acetal-nickel, cover more space than the Nickel only one
> 
> And again thanks for the answers


I am happy to help.

These are what the acetal-nickel full cover blocks look like installed.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You guys think an enhanced 12mm acrylic fitting with a short tube and a bp drain valve at the end will hold up? Or too much weight? This is an alternative option instead of using a long extension + male-male and the valve for a drainage system.


I have it that way in the basement of Chessboard. However, I use a decoupling sponge to help in giving support for the BP valve...


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I am happy to help.
> 
> These are what the acetal-nickel full cover blocks look like installed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks pretty good!
Just, would you recommend me for the tubbing a specific brand?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> It would probably hold, but I am the living example of Murphy's Law: If there is anything that can go wrong, it will. I might run that down to a level surface, or just above and use some type of unobtrusive holder/clamp/device to secure it there.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I have it that way in the basement of Chessboard. However, I use a decoupling sponge to help in giving support for the BP valve...
Click to expand...

Thanks guys









Think I'll just use an extension.


----------



## socolate

My system:
Asus Z10PE-D8 WS
Dual E5-2696 V3
8 x 32GB ECC REG
SLI TITAN Z
Full WC
...
Areca 1882
Intel 750
M2 950 Pro
...


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socolate*
> 
> My system:
> Asus Z10PE-D8 WS
> Dual E5-2696 V3
> 8 x 32GB ECC REG
> SLI TITAN Z
> Full WC
> ...
> Areca 1882
> Intel 750
> M2 950 Pro
> ...


That looks awesome. Very neat, very clean.... nice job!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socolate*
> 
> My system:
> Asus Z10PE-D8 WS
> Dual E5-2696 V3
> 8 x 32GB ECC REG
> SLI TITAN Z
> Full WC
> ...
> Areca 1882
> Intel 750
> M2 950 Pro
> ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quote
> 
> There is a lot going on in there, but you did a great job organizing! The smiling cow really finishes it off!


----------



## fa5terba11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> a build by @Kidam101
> photo by snef
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now UV


where does the tubing go? I see where it goes into the top rad but I don't see where it comes out.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Looks pretty good!
> Just, would you recommend me for the tubbing a specific brand?


Bitspower or E22 12mm OD x 10mm ID clear acrylic tube is my recommendation.

If you want a larger diameter tube

Bitspower 16mm OD x 12mm ID clear tube

Bitspower or EK-HD rigid type fittings will work fine. Make sure you get the correct size match.


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Bitspower or E22 12mm OD x 10mm ID clear acrylic tube is my recommendation.
> 
> If you want a larger diameter tube
> 
> Bitspower 16mm OD x 12mm ID clear tube
> 
> Bitspower or EK-HD rigid type fittings will work fine. Make sure you get the correct size match.


Ok thanks for the advices!
Just a last thing, how much tubes should i take?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> where does the tubing go? I see where it goes into the top rad but I don't see where it comes out.


Looks like it goes through the back wall.


----------



## pc-illiterate

holy quote fail fa5terba11. use spoiler tags on quoted pics. its really important when you screw up a quote like that too.


----------



## hawktulu98

- Fractal Design Define S
- Fractal Design Kelvin S36
- 3x Fractal Design Venturi HF-12
- 3x Fractal Design Dynamic GP-12
- 2x Fractal Design Dynamic GP-14
- Alphacool nexxxos gpx M03
- Intel i5 [email protected]
- Gigabyte gtx 970 G1 gaming
- Asus Sabertooth p67
- Kingston 16GB DDR3 1866MHz CL10 HyperX Fury Black Series
- Be quiet! Straight Power 600W 80+ gold

system will be updated to 6x Venturi HF-12 for push/pull, HP-14 or HF-14 to back, Corsair white LED to bottom but so far->


----------



## crafty615

Need some help from the pros:
need help mounting 480mm rad externally


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You guys think an enhanced 12mm acrylic fitting with a short tube and a bp drain valve at the end will hold up? Or too much weight? This is an alternative option instead of using a long extension + male-male and the valve for a drainage system.


The valves are relatively fairly heavy. Also when operating the valve it really needs some support as the tap itself is usually fairly stiff to turn.

IMO you will need some additional support.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> The valves are relatively fairly heavy. Also when operating the valve it really needs some support as the tap itself is usually fairly stiff to turn.
> 
> IMO you will need some additional support.


I have one, just wasn't sure if a small run w/ "enhanced" fittings would work. And I had the exact same thoughts you have butI wasn't too sure. Right now its on an extension and m-m adapter, so I guess I'll just do the same







when i start my hard-tube loop. Thanks


----------



## rodaduck

try the alpha cool hard tube , its brass plated in black chrome or chrome that would be plenty strong


----------



## rodaduck

sorry almost forgot , its not threaded , you can use there fitting or depending on if you have a die or want to but one you can thread it your self , thats what im doing all the tube threaded direct to the fitting , i can tell you now the die is 45$


----------



## ledzepp3

Well then. I think my bottom 290X finally died after years of it being folded on pretty much 24/7. At least I can still use my old water block, right? I've been mulling the idea of swapping my 290X's next year for a fresh set of Fury's, does anyone here have experience with those on an X79 system? I'm still running my RIVBE and a 3930K which should probably go soon too for a 4930K, but saving money for both car parts and computers isn't easy


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Well then. I think my bottom 290X finally died after years of it being folded on pretty much 24/7. At least I can still use my old water block, right? I've been mulling the idea of swapping my 290X's next year for a fresh set of Fury's, does anyone here have experience with those on an X79 system? I'm still running my RIVBE and a 3930K which should probably go soon too for a 4930K, but saving money for both car parts and computers isn't easy


I would just get a cheap second hand 290X for the time being and upgrade when the new gen2 HBM gpu's launch.


----------



## emsj86

For those that have used them our the ek hd hardline fittings work well (without looking bulky) and is the nickel a non shiny nickel or does it look more chrome. I prefer the chrome look


----------



## VeritronX

Quick question, I'm looking at having two 480 rads as intake and can fit another 480 rad as exhaust if it's 30mm thick or less, should I bother with the exhaust rad and if yes which one? I'm building for up to 1200w of heat, intake rads will be RX480 V3's, all rads would have fans in pull only and psu heat would also exit through the exhaust rad.


----------



## snef

one of happiest children on earth


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> one of happiest children on earth


Absolutely awesome, snef!! That is a look of pure joy on his face! I cannot blame him. That's a great little setup. +1


----------



## snef

Thanks,









believe me, his reaction when he saw the built was just epic, I will post the video soon


----------



## 97discosd

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> one of happiest children on earth






amazing!!!!


----------



## fast_fate

Best pic this thread has had posted in ages.
Awesome !!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thats one made up kiddie. Well done.

In other news....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

Nicely done snef, nicely done.









~Ceadder


----------



## catbuster

@B air cooler on gpu? wrong thread







put on some smexy gpu block and come back !


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> @B air cooler on gpu? wrong thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *put on some smexy gpu block* and come back !


I have to make it first.......


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have to make it first.......


Custom block? Awwww yes!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> one of happiest children on earth


Awesome!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Quick question, I'm looking at having two 480 rads as intake and can fit another 480 rad as exhaust if it's 30mm thick or less, should I bother with the exhaust rad and if yes which one? I'm building for up to 1200w of heat, intake rads will be RX480 V3's, all rads would have fans in pull only and psu heat would also exit through the exhaust rad.


Adding a third 480 radiator under those circumstances would be a waste. Heat from the PSU, the other two 480s and whatever radiant heat that will be picked up as air flows through the case will marginalize gains from having the extra radiator. Best to add some fans to exhaust the hot air. If you desire a third radiator, the optimal arrangement would be fans in push with all rads pulling cooler outside air in through the rads. Though, I believe the actual difference between using push over pull is marginal.


----------



## rodaduck

the hard tube does com in standard chrome


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have to make it first.......


Cant wait, put dat CNC to good work


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

I wish I had the cash, but I really wanna take the pedestal for the Case Labs Magnum TH size cases and turn it into a custom "slim" case all its own.. Running a GTS 560 rad in the front, with some low RPM fans.
looking at the dimensions it shouldn't be too hard to fit an MATX board in there and still have some room for a reasonably long GPU, like most reference length 390X or 980 Ti

I would almost want to make it automotive themed with a custom "front grill" much like this 71" Chevelle I took pictures of back in spring:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







One of these days....


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> one of happiest children on earth
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fantastic Snef, really does warm the heart.


----------



## wermad

I'm gonna spray the copper plugs I have, do you guys recommend self-etching primer, or just regular primer? I tried self=etching on aluminum, and it held pretty good.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm gonna spray the copper plugs I have, do you guys recommend self-etching primer, or just regular primer? I tried self=etching on aluminum, and it held pretty good.


Are you spraying the external side of the plug correct? Are they bare copper or painted already? In principle I would go with regular primer.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Final pics tomorrow™


----------



## alltheGHz

OH SNAP! I love custom resoviors


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you spraying the external side of the plug correct? Are they bare copper or painted already? In principle I would go with regular primer.


Yeah, the copper plugs that come with alphacool rads. I tried the 2-1 paint and it didn't stick.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Final pics tomorrow™
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So you did fix up Idoru, can't wait to see the results.


----------



## Solonowarion

Thought id share a few pics of what the build currently looks like before I start something different.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Thought id share a few pics of what the build currently looks like before I start something different.


what kind of Mobo is that?


----------



## erso44

I got some problems with this new forum style. Everytime I click on a spoiler nothing happens. I tested many spoilers but the same result. How does it work for you guys? I should message admin.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I got some problems with this new forum style. Everytime I click on a spoiler nothing happens. I tested many spoilers but the same result. How does it work for you guys? I should message admin.


No issues here. Do you have some form of noscript running?


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> what kind of Mobo is that?


Looks like a asus z77 sabertooth


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Looks like a asus z77 sabertooth


That's my favorite board.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That's my favorite board.


Yeah i love the sabertooth line thats why I have the z97 gryphon and x99 sabertooth(currently beind modded) awesome boards and can customize to what ever looks and very stable


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Yeah i love the sabertooth line thats why I have the z97 gryphon and x99 sabertooth(currently beind modded) awesome boards and can customize to what ever looks and very stable


I'd like to go X99 on my next build. Great looking board. I may just wait to see what the next line of Sabertooth boards are like. I think my 3770K is starting to get tired. I had to dismantle my hard tube custom loop to sell my old cards. The 3770K is only bring cooled by an H100i GTX until I get more hard tube.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'd like to go X99 on my next build. Great looking board. I may just wait to see what the next line of Sabertooth boards are like. I think my 3770K is starting to get tired. I had to dismantle my hard tube custom loop to sell my old cards. The 3770K is only bring cooled by an H100i GTX until I get more hard tube.


Yeah I'm curious also although I'm not a fan of the orange accents on the z170 boards but easy fix. If the new enthusiast boards look better I might need to transplant my 5930k as they will be compatible with bios update or so they say.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Yeah I'm curious also although I'm not a fan of the orange accents on the z170 boards but easy fix. If the new enthusiast boards look better I might need to transplant my 5930k as they will be compatible with bios update or so they say.


Yeah, the orange doesn't work for me either. It looks good in the right builds but I won't do a build with orange.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Yeah, the orange doesn't work for me either. It looks good in the right builds but I won't do a build with orange.


I agree I think small accent of red instead of orange would have been nicer and gone more with the military aesthetic.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> I agree I think small accent of red instead of orange would have been nicer and gone more with the military aesthetic.


I would prefer all black. It works with so many colors. My build was clear coolant (just distilled), black, nickel, and just a such a minor touch of muted gold on the mobo and on the Dominator Platinum lighted covers that the former owner painted. It ended up looking great just simply because the only color was so little that it managed to work.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So...after all the things that have happened to this build....finally,she is alive!!

Today was supposed to be a day of lovely photo's,the weather decided different....

Still,here is a few to whet the appetite.





She is sitting there right now drinking up internet goodness ready to go to work.

Nice arty pics to come.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So...after all the things that have happened to this build....finally,she is alive!!
> 
> Today was supposed to be a day of lovely photo's,the weather decided different....
> 
> Still,here is a few to whet the appetite.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She is sitting there right now drinking up internet goodness ready to go to work.
> 
> Nice arty pics to come.


Yes, it is truly a work of art.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Thought id share a few pics of what the build currently looks like before I start something different.


What case is that?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> What case is that?


Slightly chopped up 600t.


----------



## Kostadinos

Here is my first loop in the graphics card ..Wait for the second loop in different color


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Slightly chopped up 600t.


It's fun to chop up Corsair cases, lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Here is my first loop in the graphics card ..Wait for the second loop in different color
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cool stealth mod there for the reservoir outlet connection. For a minute there I thought the loop had no pump







. Sweet setup and luv the pastel


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's fun to chop up Corsair cases, lol


I agree!

Quick question guys, I've had a set of Monsoon hardline fittings ready for my conversion from soft tubing to acrylic hardline but something is bugging me. I recently found out from EK's blog that mixing nickel plating with silver kill coils damages the plating and isn't advised. The monsoon fittings have silver plated brass spouts, has anyone had these fittings before for a long while with nickel blocks?


----------



## alltheGHz

I too have (another) question. I currently have dual bay res pimp combo in my caselabs s5. However, there is alot of wasted space towards the front of the case, where people would usually put a super tall reservoir. Now, I hate wasted space. I hate wasted space more than Donald Trump hates Mexicans.

The question is, would it be worth it switching from a dual bay res and pump to a tube res and pump? DDC or D5? What is the best material? Who makes the best reservoirs? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I too have (another) question. I currently have dual bay res pimp combo in my caselabs s5. However, there is alot of wasted space towards the front of the case, where people would usually put a super tall reservoir. Now, I hate wasted space. I hate wasted space more than Donald Trump hates Mexicans.
> 
> The question is, would it be worth it switching from a dual bay res and pump to a tube res and pump? DDC or D5? What is the best material? Who makes the best reservoirs? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.


To be fair he only hates illegal mexicans...

I love love love the new Monsoon MMRS. You can build and customize it however you want with whatever colors and lights you want. And it has a D5 that goes along with it. Looks really awesome!


----------



## Kostadinos

The output of the tank leads to the back of the case and where we meets pvc tubes.The pump is under the psu cover


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So...after all the things that have happened to this build....finally,she is alive!!
> 
> Today was supposed to be a day of lovely photo's,the weather decided different....
> 
> Still,here is a few to whet the appetite.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She is sitting there right now drinking up internet goodness ready to go to work.
> 
> Nice arty pics to come.


Glad to see you got it all back up and running. It was tragic to see what happened to it.


----------



## emsj86

Anyone using the ek hdc fittings. I debating on the push in vs the compression. My first thought was the push in but if the compression don't look bulky; than I d rather go with the compression due to bring easier to work with. Pics would help. Google search didn't bring up much (in builds)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Personally I'm only comfortable using push in style on metal based tubing (copper/brass) but it does look good on acrylic/glass tubing. The compression style just gives an added sense of security to me


----------



## liverpool1985

My finished build







- Corsair 900D / Amd Fury X


----------



## liverpool1985




----------



## liverpool1985

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liverpool1985*


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfSaw_xmEBo


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Nice build Liverpool1985! and well come to OCN


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liverpool1985*
> 
> My finished build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Corsair 900D / Amd Fury X
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean build. I like it.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

In progress:


----------



## wermad

FedEx dropped of my bp tube


----------



## Solonowarion

Got tired of my EK stuff.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> FedEx dropped of my bp tube


How much did the shipping end up costing for that tube from ppcs?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/p7zSeZV3j

Got me six GT's.


----------



## Questors

Very nice, it's not too flashy, not too plain. Love the drive window.

I can't tell if the wire sleeve is red or orange. I can normally see both colors and tell the two apart as well.







Darned color vision!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Got tired of my EK stuff.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I wish EK and other companies would give you the option to not have their logo visible on their products. It looks so clean and professional when it's its not bombarded with brand tags.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> How much did the shipping end up costing for that tube from ppcs?


They were able to honor the price from similar product as a one time and we're going to bring it up with management to further look into.

Sacrificed a tiny piece of tube and used my mitter saw. Came out pretty good imho:


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They were able to honor the price from similar product as a one time and we're going to bring it up with management to further look into.


Ahh, i see. I need 2 or 3 1M tubes of 16mm crystal link but the over $20 shipping for 2 is rediculous. Over the summer i bought from ppcs $850 worth of stuff including 4 1M tubes of the same tybe and the shipping was less than $20...


----------



## wermad

It don't hurt to ask


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liverpool1985*
> 
> My finished build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Corsair 900D / Amd Fury X
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, clean build.


----------



## VSG

Anyone in the area and interested, please convey my appreciation for their products. Totally serious. Maybe.


----------



## wermad

I still have my squeeze bottle from the old Bigwater (and big leaky) kit!

Btw, DHL picked up my order, hoping it gets here soon


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone in the area and interested, please convey my appreciation for their products. Totally serious. Maybe.


Can't say that I have use for Thermal(on the)Take (what we want 'cuz we can't come up with anything on our own) and their copy room mentality of procuring product ideas.


----------



## morencyam

Only Thermaltake product I have ever used is my current Core V1 case. I love it. Very well built. But I'd still be hesitant to use any Thermaltake branded WC gear. Especially after seeing that their radiators are aluminum

PS. I dearly miss this club


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Only Thermaltake product I have ever used is my current Core V1 case. I love it. Very well built. But I'd still be hesitant to use any Thermaltake branded WC gear. Especially after seeing that their radiators are aluminum
> 
> PS. I dearly miss this club


We are still here. Don't be sad.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Geeeeeezus the pilfering just never stops does it? EK Tt fittings throughout.









Now I see why EK dropped those circle fittings into EoL status.









~Ceadder


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Geeeeeezus the pilfering just never stops does it? EK Tt fittings throughout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I see why EK dropped those circle fittings into EoL status.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I read this comment you made, but didn't get it. After thinking about it for a minute or 15, I went back and actually watched the video.









They are "on the 'Take again" I see. No surprise there. They are about as original as a cream pie in the face skit. They remind me a lot of Apple. A company that never actually invented anything, yet hails its products as if it were born solely of their intellectual brilliance.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I read this comment you made, but didn't get it. After thinking about it for a minute or 15, I went back and actually watched the video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are "on the 'Take again" I see. No surprise there. They are about as original as a cream pie in the face skit. They remind me a lot of Apple. A company that never actually invented anything, yet hails its products as if it were born solely of their intellectual brilliance.


You know it should be a given really. They announce it in their name and everything..... Thermal*TAKE*


----------



## taowulf

As we used to say, "Friends don't let friend use Thermaltake"


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I read this comment you made, but didn't get it. After thinking about it for a minute or 15, I went back and actually watched the video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are "on the 'Take again" I see. No surprise there. They are about as original as a cream pie in the face skit. They remind me a lot of Apple. A company that never actually invented anything, yet hails its products as if it were born solely of their intellectual brilliance.


What do you mean Apple never invented anything? Mac, iPhone, ect.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> What do you mean Apple never invented anything? Mac, iPhone, ect.


Apple does a great job of taking tech that other people innovate and repackaging it to be attractive to consumers. There WERE smartphones before the iPhone, they were just ugly, bulky, and did not have a slick interface. Same with media players. There were other devices that came first.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not only that, they are good at filing patents on existing tech and filing patent suits.

Gotta love when they sued the Beatles over the Apple logo from their recording label which was in use LONG before the world ever heard of Apple Computer or Steve Jobs.









~Ceadder


----------



## sperson1

You guys are crazy to think that apple hasn't invented anything. They have done a lot for the technology industry


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Apple does a great job of taking tech that other people innovate and repackaging it to be attractive to consumers. There WERE smartphones before the iPhone, they were just ugly, bulky, and did not have a slick interface. Same with media players. There were other devices that came first.


Palm Treo's did things no other smartphone could do at the time and probably still to this day. I remember being able to send and receive faxes not using a third party email service or anything either...*real* faxes. Nes/sega emulators, augmented reality shooter games using the camera, media players that played every format available, Bike or Die.... the list goes on and on. Then Apple came and invented the smartphone.....


----------



## Radnad

It doesn't matter what Apple invented or copied, thier strength wasn't in technology or innovation, thier strength was in marketing. They successfully made all of us believe we needed whatever their selling. Jobs was the single best technology salesman ever.


----------



## pc-illiterate

apple didnt make me believe i needed anything except less apple in my life.


----------



## wermad

So, ek dual d5 top still better than bp? Might throw in a second d5 in my loop.


----------



## wadz1lla

All the apple bashing gets old. I love my PC and I love my macs. Move it along.


----------



## X-Nine

Actually, Apple innovated more than any one single tech company ever. Innovation doesn't mean invention. Also, try doing anything in audio production on Windows. You simply can't, the audio drivers are garbage and midi synchronization is a pain in the ass.

Have to use the tools that best suit the job.

Anyway, think I'm gonna grab a new Monsoon reservoir, and definitely a new pump. The noise of the 355 is insane. Going back to a D5, even for my mitx build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> You guys are crazy to think that apple hasn't invented anything. They have done a lot for the technology industry


Name a single part in their computers they "invented"? Just one.

They have their place but c'mon.









~Ceadder


----------



## BURGER4life

I thought i am in the "OCN Water Cooling Club and Picture Gallery" thread


----------



## MIGhunter

Are the fans all made the same as far as wiring? In the old days of building stuff with fans, the side of the wiring dictated which way the fan pushed air. Is that still the case? I was thinking about it and need to either run my front radiator so that it's either one of these variants


----------



## RnRollie

nowadays most of them (except maybe some industrial hardcores) put convenient arrows on the fancase

Oh, and most fans are slightly better in push as in pull


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Actually, Apple innovated more than any one single tech company ever. Innovation doesn't mean invention. Also, *try doing anything in audio production on Windows.* You simply can't, the audio drivers are garbage and midi synchronization is a pain in the ass.
> 
> Have to use the tools that best suit the job.
> 
> Anyway, think I'm gonna grab a new Monsoon reservoir, and definitely a new pump. The noise of the 355 is insane. Going back to a D5, even for my mitx build.


Let me refer you to Cubase...Ableton....Logic.....Reason......Sonar.......

Apple does do it well but dont discount Windows.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Are the fans all made the same as far as wiring? In the old days of building stuff with fans, the side of the wiring dictated which way the fan pushed air. Is that still the case? I was thinking about it and need to either run my front radiator so that it's either one of these variants


The fan will always pull from the face side,push from the wiring side.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, ek dual d5 top still better than bp? Might throw in a second d5 in my loop.


Depends on what you value,I find the BP tops to be quieter but have a performance hit, the EK ones are better all round but are slightly,and I do mean tiny, noisier. Thats very dependent on mounting tho.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> I thought i am in the "OCN Water Cooling Club and Picture Gallery" thread


Seems like you're in the wrong place, this is the OCN Water Cooling, Picture Gallery And Random Discussions Club.

On a more serious note, this is a club, not a specific help thread, people may somewhat go off topic now and then.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Seems like you're in the wrong place, this is the OCN Water Cooling, Picture Gallery *And Random Discussions Club*.
> 
> On a more serious note, this is a club, not a specific help thread, people may somewhat go off topic now and then.


It has been rather slow here as well, gotta have something to talk about.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> apple didnt make me believe i needed anything except less apple in my life.


+1

Apple belongs in PIE!


----------



## kizwan

Actually Apple is good for your health. Windows only give you high blood pressure when your PC BSOD.


----------



## sperson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Name a single part in their computers they "invented"? Just one.
> 
> They have their place but c'mon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Firewire


----------



## wadz1lla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Actually, Apple innovated more than any one single tech company ever. Innovation doesn't mean invention. Also, try doing anything in audio production on Windows. You simply can't, the audio drivers are garbage and midi synchronization is a pain in the ass.
> 
> Have to use the tools that best suit the job.
> 
> Anyway, think I'm gonna grab a new Monsoon reservoir, and definitely a new pump. The noise of the 355 is insane. Going back to a D5, even for my mitx build.


Oddly this is why I bought a PC. I'm a producer / mixing engineer etc and I love how solid my PC is. Maybe because I'm 100% ITB. I do get issues that I never had on a mac but 90% of my experience has been positive.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol apple doesn't invent anything they just buy patents (mouse from xerox)


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, ek dual d5 top still better than bp? Might throw in a second d5 in my loop.


Unless you need it adding the second D5 does add extra heat into the loop. Just a heads up


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Depends on what you value,I find the BP tops to be quieter but have a performance hit, the EK ones are better all round but are slightly,and I do mean tiny, noisier. Thats very dependent on mounting tho.


Ty








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Unless you need it adding the second D5 does add extra heat into the loop. Just a heads up


Think I'm cool with adding another one just for the bit of boost (no pun intended).

Can't find the ek top and the outlet is on the opposite side. Might just go with two pumps in series. They'll be next to fans so they'll have some external cooling.


----------



## alltheGHz

Should I worry about compatibility issues if I want to take the EK DCP 2.2 from the res-pump combo and putting it in a loop with a separate resovior and pump?

Also, should I really worry about the pump I have if I'm doing a Cpu only loop? I understand that some pumps are more powerful, but I don't really need 1000 g/l (or whatever metric you guys use), noise is what really matters to me.


----------



## wermad

Unusual question: do you lose the benefits of two pumps in series if one pump-res combo unit feeds another pump-res combo unit? Or must you run them in parallel (which apperantly sucks).

(Ie: photon d5 feeds res of second photon d5)

Edit: may just run dual loops.


----------



## Jflisk

If you really feeling experimental take two D5 pumps -Res- CPU block make a small loop. I did once within 15 MIN touch the cpu block
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Unusual question: do you lose the benefits of two pumps in series if one pump-res combo unit feeds another pump-res combo unit? Or must you run them in parallel (which apperantly sucks).
> 
> (Ie: photon d5 feeds res of second photon d5)
> 
> Edit: may just run dual loops.


I would believe running them in series gives the best benefit and I don't think you would lose anything thru 2 res's My Dual D5 both D5 are in one Res . I get like 320 LPH constant . Think when I did the mat came out to 1.5 GPH with my multiple rads and CPU block. I used a aquacomputer and koolance flow sensor with adapter . Like I said does add more heat to the loop. I did an experiment when my res was out and created a small loop res x 2 D5 - cpu block after 15 min the cpu block was hot to the touch.

Oh and one add in 2 pumps makes it a whole lot easier to bleed.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Should I worry about compatibility issues if I want to take the EK DCP 2.2 from the res-pump combo and putting it in a loop with a separate resovior and pump?
> 
> Also, should I really worry about the pump I have if I'm doing a Cpu only loop? I understand that some pumps are more powerful, but I don't really need 1000 g/l (or whatever metric you guys use), noise is what really matters to me.


You'll be fine sticking with that pump. When you seperate them you will probably want to remove the EK adapter plate and install the original screws for the faceplate. Also remember that res can't be used as a standalone.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Unusual question: do you lose the benefits of two pumps in series if one pump-res combo unit feeds another pump-res combo unit? Or must you run them in parallel (which apperantly sucks).
> 
> (Ie: photon d5 feeds res of second photon d5)
> 
> Edit: may just run dual loops.


*EDIT - I failed when attempting to convey the information intended*.









Pumps in parallel are used to overcome larger flow volume through a loop than a single pump is capable of delivering.
Pumps in series are used to overcome greater loop head loss than a single pump can handle on it's own.
For PC water cooling applications, it has been shown pumps arranged in serial operation is more efficient than pumps arranged in a parallel configuration. (Martin's Liquid Lab/ExtremeRigs.net)
Either configuration benefits from redundancy, the additional pump in service should the other pump fail.
I use dual pumps in series as my single loop realizes a flow path through several radiators below the pumps rising to several components above the pump placement. This provided my last build with lower temperatures than having two single pumps spaced equally apart in the loop.

Since the two different configurations are purposed for different requirements, it stands to reason you would lose the benefit of serial if you arrange the pumps in parallel. However, with PC water cooling systems, it is my guess the extent of gain or loss from a particular configuration will vary based on loop size, pump strength and restriction to flow, but would be less of a factor than traditional water pumping due to the contained and relatively small overall system size.

Yes, Alex, that is my final answer.


----------



## wermad

^^^ Thought so, tnx


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Unusual question: do you lose the benefits of two pumps in series if one pump-res combo unit feeds another pump-res combo unit? Or must you run them in parallel (which apperantly sucks


No you do not lose any advantages.

Remember that our loops are a closed loop system so it does not really matter where the two pumps are placed.

One can be at one point and the other can be positioned anywhere else in the loop. The pressure increase advantage provided by running a second pump in series is always maintained irrespective of where or how many reservoirs are in the system.

The only thing to consider is, it is probably not a good idea to mount one pump down low and another way up high in the loop as the possibilty of running the high mounted pump dry when first filling/bleeding becomes a reality. However in your situation that will not be an issue. As long as both reservoirs always have fluid in them you will be fine.

.......and yes running the pumps in parallel is of no benefit to us, serial connection is where its at.


----------



## wermad

Interesting


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would think running them like that would be more beneficial, which pump/res combo though?


----------



## bluedevil

So what's a better wcing setup?

EK predator 240 + 120mm pe + gpu wb (1 loop)

Or

2 H240X/H220X+ gpu wb (2 separate loops)

The ek setup would be internally in my CM 352, while the 2 H240X/H220X would go in a external rad box made out of a CM 120 Elite mITX case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Name a single part in their computers they "invented"? Just one.
> 
> They have their place but c'mon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Firewire
Click to expand...

And firewire is essentially EoL. Anything else?









~Ceadder


----------



## Solonowarion

I feel like this thread needs a few pictures. Someone may not hate these.


----------



## DarthBaggins

yup hate it, lol

Looking good so far. .


----------



## Way2grouchy

Not sure if I want to use a ram water block for the routing or not yet but am wondering if the blocks are the same for ddr3 and ddr4?


----------



## AresTheGod

Hi everyone, I finaly finished the cart and got all the hardware part yesterday (msi 980 TI, Asus Ranger VIII, Intel 6700K and everything)
Soo just wanted to know if this cart is good and I got a question about the coolent.





About he coolent, i'd like to know what you think about the Mayhems pastel coolant. Is it good? Is it dangerous for the hardware (low-conductivity?)? And how much should I take? 1,2,3 liters?
And just do I have enough fans and do I need other types or fittings?
Thanks


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So what's a better wcing setup?
> 
> EK predator 240 + 120mm pe + gpu wb (1 loop)
> 
> Or
> 
> 2 H240X/H220X+ gpu wb (2 separate loops)
> 
> The ek setup would be internally in my CM 352, while the 2 H240X/H220X would go in a external rad box made out of a CM 120 Elite mITX case.


Better pure performance wise, most likely the swiftech setup, but in terms of practicality, the EK setup.

I would go with the EK setup, its a more elegant solution, and will still perform adequately.


----------



## sperson1

So everyone i have been doing a lot of thinking and i am going from soft tubing to PETG. also performance pc is having a sale on Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fittings


----------



## sperson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hi everyone, I finaly finished the cart and got all the hardware part yesterday (msi 980 TI, Asus Ranger VIII, Intel 6700K and everything)
> Soo just wanted to know if this cart is good and I got a question about the coolent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About he coolent, i'd like to know what you think about the Mayhems pastel coolant. Is it good? Is it dangerous for the hardware (low-conductivity?)? And how much should I take? 1,2,3 liters?
> And just do I have enough fans and do I need other types or fittings?
> Thanks


Don't think you need 2 hardline kits


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Don't think you need 2 hardline kits


Ups


----------



## Way2grouchy

Finally caught Intel Core i7-6700K in stock and got it ordered been watching every day!


----------



## dilster97

GTX 980 K|NGP|N with a 1260mm rad all to itself.

Temps rarely do a degree above 35C. Ridiculous


----------



## wermad

I already placed an order for fittings and I have about 30 90° fittings....I'm not gonna bend....and this might be too much for a single d5. I dont know tbh as this is my first committed hardline loop. I did a quick calculation with two loops and it's about the same fittings. So now I'm leaning on dual loops.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Looking for black oxide counter-sunk #6-32 either hex/philips/flat head don't care in length of 30mm. Does any manufacturer make screws in this combination? I found silver finished counter-sunk screws at Ace but they are in length 1.25" and 1". The 1.25" could probably work with a rubber washer but would prefer black finish to them. Will have to paint them if I can't find the screws I'm looking for.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Better pure performance wise, most likely the swiftech setup, but in terms of practicality, the EK setup.
> 
> I would go with the EK setup, its a more elegant solution, and will still perform adequately.


I agree the EK is way more elegant. Thinking of doing some Nvidia green coolant.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> nowadays most of them (except maybe some industrial hardcores) put convenient arrows on the fancase
> 
> Oh, and most fans are slightly better in push as in pull


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsh0IB-6ffc

Most ppl don't believe this any more. Maybe in the old days when electronics and stuff were less efficient. I personally haven't tested this stuff myself, just going off other people's tests


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Unusual question: do you lose the benefits of two pumps in series if one pump-res combo unit feeds another pump-res combo unit? Or must you run them in parallel (which apperantly sucks).
> 
> (Ie: photon d5 feeds res of second photon d5)
> 
> Edit: may just run dual loops.
> 
> 
> 
> There would be no benefit in using one pump to feed another reservoir. *Once the water flow hits the other reservoir, the pressure and GPM/LPM drop as the tubing opens up into the much larger open volume of the res. The water can only be taken out of the second reservoir at whatever rate the pump is capable*. Each time the flow comes back to another reservoir the same pressure and flow will experience the same effect.
> 
> Having two pumps does provide some redundancy if one fails, but again falls prey to the same effect coming back around to the reservoirs and in the case of a pump failure, the flow also has to push its way through the non-operational pump as well.
Click to expand...

Not true,once the res is filled,it will be at the same pressure that the pump feeding it is pushing out,give or take the differences from the air that remains.

These are hi bypass pumps so the drag of the inoperative pump is minor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So what's a better wcing setup?
> 
> EK predator 240 + 120mm pe + gpu wb (1 loop)
> 
> Or
> 
> 2 H240X/H220X+ gpu wb (2 separate loops)
> 
> The ek setup would be internally in my CM 352, while the 2 H240X/H220X would go in a external rad box made out of a CM 120 Elite mITX case.


EK,hands down,so much so that im using one in a 901 build,might be asking a lot of a 6w pump to do another rad as well as the GPU...unless you strip the 6w out of the EK unit and bolt a PWM 18w in there......with the heatsink.........
I be overclocking AIO's allday..........


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> There would be no benefit in using one pump to feed another reservoir. Once the water flow hits the other reservoir, the pressure and GPM/LPM drop as the tubing opens up into the much larger open volume of the res. The water can only be taken out of the second reservoir at whatever rate the pump is capable. Each time the flow comes back to another reservoir the same pressure and flow will experience the same effect.
> 
> Having two pumps does provide some redundancy if one fails, but again falls prey to the same effect coming back around to the reservoirs and in the case of a pump failure, the flow also has to push its way through the non-operational pump as well.


The Photon pump does not return the coolant to the res, it is returned nearly directly to the pump inlet.
If the res being fed by the first pump was open then there would be pressure loss between the pumps but if the res is sealed then the res is under pressure and it is transmitted to the second pump. In addition to that the first pump still has a pulling effect on the loop as a whole so the loop itself still experiences the effects of dual pumps, even if the re is open. Just like the is no difference between putting two pumps at the start of a length of tube and components or putting one at the start and one at the end.

Dual reservoirs in a single loop does effectively introduce a permanent air pocket into a loop unless the second res is kept completely full and air pockets can have a flow dampening effect but certainly not to the degree that only one pump is doing anything.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,once the res is filled,it will be at the same pressure that the pump feeding it is pushing out,give or take the differences from the air that remains.
> 
> These are hi bypass pumps so the drag of the inoperative pump is minor.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The Photon pump does not return the coolant to the res, it is returned nearly directly to the pump inlet.
> If the res being fed by the first pump was open then there would be pressure loss between the pumps but if the res is sealed then the res is under pressure and it is transmitted to the second pump. In addition to that the first pump still has a pulling effect on the loop as a whole so the loop itself still experiences the effects of dual pumps, even if the re is open. Just like the is no difference between putting two pumps at the start of a length of tube and components or putting one at the start and one at the end.
> 
> Dual reservoirs in a single loop does effectively introduce a permanent air pocket into a loop unless the second res is kept completely full and air pockets can have a flow dampening effect but certainly not to the degree that only one pump is doing anything.


What I stated and what I meant weren't the same thing. My thoughts get ahead of my typing sometimes.

The original post has been edited to more accurately reflect what was meant.


----------



## StuttgartRob

Completed Pics of my First water cooled PC


----------



## DarthBaggins

That turned out great


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Anyone use these yet? I just stumbled across them.. dayuum...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-fully-assembled-and-customizable-reservoir-style-1.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Anyone use these yet? I just stumbled across them.. dayuum...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-fully-assembled-and-customizable-reservoir-style-1.html


And ordered.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Anyone use these yet? I just stumbled across them.. dayuum...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-fully-assembled-and-customizable-reservoir-style-1.html


I got one, haven't put it in yet, but they are SWEET!


----------



## wermad

It's been out for a while:

www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling

Disappointed the d5 kit needs a different top to attach it directly to the the tube reservoirs.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Name a single part in their computers they "invented"? Just one.
> 
> They have their place but c'mon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Apple Pencil.

Boom.


----------



## Omaniz

*want to join the club this my rig pic*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*


*


*
I hope you like it







:thumb:*


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> Apple Pencil.
> Boom.


there were styluses for everything, including the ipads, before the apple pencil.
boom.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> there were styluses for everything, including the ipads, before the apple pencil.
> boom.


Pretty sure that was a joke.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omaniz*
> 
> *want to join the club this my rig pic*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> *
> I hope you like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:*


Like what you did with the tubing.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StuttgartRob*
> 
> Completed Pics of my First water cooled PC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice neat work.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Name a single part in their computers they "invented"? Just one.
> 
> They have their place but c'mon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


They invented "the PC" itself. At the very least you could _argue_ that.


----------



## wermad

Can we get back to water. This argument is as bad as Intel vs amd, amd vs nvidia, chevy vs ford vs mopar, etc. If you dont like apple, just dont buy their products (like i do).Take it to the off topic section please.

Any one know where I can find the V2 csq ek dual d5 top or the csq single d5 top? Ppcs.com only has the new version? The bp dual top is tempting but I rather not take a performance hit.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Can we get back to water. This argument is as bad as Intel vs amd, amd vs nvidia, chevy vs ford vs mopar, etc. If you dont like apple, just dont buy their products (like i do).Take it to the off topic section please.
> 
> Any one know where I can find the V2 csq ek dual d5 top or the csq single d5 top? Ppcs.com only has the new version? *The bp dual top is tempting but I rather not take a performance hit.*


I've always considered the small performance hit to be more than adequately compensated for by the ability to use the BP D5 pump dress up kits for improved overall aesthetics.

I did use the EK dual D5 top for a dual D5 Strong setup with a 24V supply, and it doesn't let you do anything with the pumps except to maybe add a vinyl / carbon fiber wrap.

The retaining plate is a very exact fit to the pump's diameter.

Comparatively speaking, it looks like a brick, but effin' - A, it moves some coolant



Darlene


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've always considered the small performance hit to be more than adequately compensated for by the ability to use the BP D5 pump dress up kits for improved overall aesthetics.
> 
> I did use the EK dual D5 top for a dual D5 Strong setup with a 24V supply, and it doesn't let you do anything with the pumps except to maybe add a vinyl / carbon fiber wrap.
> 
> The retaining plate is a very exact fit to the pump's diameter.
> 
> Comparatively speaking, it looks like a brick, but effin' - A, it moves some coolant
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


What is that interesting contraption?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Can we get back to water. This argument is as bad as Intel vs amd, amd vs nvidia, chevy vs ford vs mopar, etc. If you dont like apple, just dont buy their products (like i do).Take it to the off topic section please.
> 
> 
> 
> Any one know where I can find the V2 csq ek dual d5 top or the csq single d5 top? Ppcs.com only has the new version? The bp dual top is tempting but I rather not take a performance hit.


If you really want the EK CSQ singles, there are 5 black Acetal and 2 acrylic tops left in Oz








Postage would probably kill you though.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've always considered the small performance hit to be more than adequately compensated for by the ability to use the BP D5 pump dress up kits for improved overall aesthetics.
> 
> I did use the EK dual D5 top for a dual D5 Strong setup with a 24V supply, and it doesn't let you do anything with the pumps except to maybe add a vinyl / carbon fiber wrap.
> 
> The retaining plate is a very exact fit to the pump's diameter.
> 
> Comparatively speaking, it looks like a brick, but effin' - A, it moves some coolant
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> What is that interesting contraption?
Click to expand...

That would be the reservoir/pump module for the chilled water loop on "Tropical Frost",

poor excuse of a buildlog for it is in my sig.

D.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've always considered the small performance hit to be more than adequately compensated for by the ability to use the BP D5 pump dress up kits for improved overall aesthetics.
> 
> I did use the EK dual D5 top for a dual D5 Strong setup with a 24V supply, and it doesn't let you do anything with the pumps except to maybe add a vinyl / carbon fiber wrap.
> 
> The retaining plate is a very exact fit to the pump's diameter.
> 
> Comparatively speaking, it looks like a brick, but effin' - A, it moves some coolant
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Looks like the pre-csq top:



Csq:



Tbh, I rather get that extra bit of boost of series d5's vs looks of the bp setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If you really want the EK CSQ singles, there are 5 black Acetal and 2 acrylic tops left in Oz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Postage would probably kill you though.


Yeah, that's gonna be killer. ...







.

I'm also open to run two pump-res combos. I guess feeding the res won't loose the benefit of series pump. Or may just run one first and the other mid-loop.

Edit: decided to run two pumps in series:with one half way through the loop. Picked up a couple of d5's (no rpm) and gonna sell my current D5 (with rpm). Thanks for all the help folks.


----------



## Malik

*mono*CHROME

IN WIN 805 Black
Intel i7 4790K
Asus GTX 970 STRIX OC
Asus Z97-AR
Asus Xonar Essence STX II 7.1
Corsair Vengeance PRO 16GB 2133Mhz
Kingston HyperX 120GB SSD
WD 6TB 128MB Red Pro
Seasonic Platinum 1 760W
Ultimate Personal Computers cable set
EK-FC970 GTX Strix - Nickel
EK-FC970 GTX Strix Backplate - Nickel
EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM
EK-CoolStream SE 240
EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR
EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Nickel
EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black
TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™
EK-UNI Pump Bracket
EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Nickel
EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 (for EK-Badge) - Nickel
EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 (for EK-Badge) - Black


----------



## cyphon

Just finished doing pictures for my HTPC build. It's a Caselabs s5, with an EVGA micro x99 board and an MSI GTX 970.








*Build Log*


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> *mono*CHROME
> 
> IN WIN 805 Black
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Intel i7 4790K
> Asus GTX 970 STRIX OC
> Asus Z97-AR
> Asus Xonar Essence STX II 7.1
> Corsair Vengeance PRO 16GB 2133Mhz
> Kingston HyperX 120GB SSD
> WD 6TB 128MB Red Pro
> Seasonic Platinum 1 760W
> Ultimate Personal Computers cable set
> EK-FC970 GTX Strix - Nickel
> EK-FC970 GTX Strix Backplate - Nickel
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
> EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM
> EK-CoolStream SE 240
> EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR
> EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Nickel
> EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black
> TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™
> EK-UNI Pump Bracket
> EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Nickel
> EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 (for EK-Badge) - Nickel
> EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 (for EK-Badge) - Black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful.


----------



## DarthBaggins

If these come to stores soon I think I'll need to snag a Intel 750 400GB


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> *mono*CHROME
> 
> IN WIN 805 Black
> Intel i7 4790K
> Asus GTX 970 STRIX OC
> Asus Z97-AR
> Asus Xonar Essence STX II 7.1
> Corsair Vengeance PRO 16GB 2133Mhz
> Kingston HyperX 120GB SSD
> WD 6TB 128MB Red Pro
> Seasonic Platinum 1 760W
> Ultimate Personal Computers cable set
> EK-FC970 GTX Strix - Nickel
> EK-FC970 GTX Strix Backplate - Nickel
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
> EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM
> EK-CoolStream SE 240
> EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR
> EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Nickel
> EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black
> TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™
> EK-UNI Pump Bracket
> EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Nickel
> EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 (for EK-Badge) - Nickel
> EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 (for EK-Badge) - Black
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's amazing work, congratulations! The two-tone tube works really well.


----------



## FuriousPop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've always considered the small performance hit to be more than adequately compensated for by the ability to use the BP D5 pump dress up kits for improved overall aesthetics.
> 
> I did use the EK dual D5 top for a dual D5 Strong setup with a 24V supply, and it doesn't let you do anything with the pumps except to maybe add a vinyl / carbon fiber wrap.
> 
> The retaining plate is a very exact fit to the pump's diameter.
> 
> Comparatively speaking, it looks like a brick, but effin' - A, it moves some coolant
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


why is the Case on a BBQ grill????








yummy!


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FuriousPop*
> 
> why is the Case on a BBQ grill????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yummy!


Because IT Diva is SMOKIN!

Yeah, I went there.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> If these come to stores soon I think I'll need to snag a Intel 750 400GB


Any reason to prefer the Bitspower one over the EK block that's been out for a few weeks for the same drives? ^_^ I'm rather curious


----------



## DarthBaggins

I already have BitPower on everything in my main rig and would rather match everything up


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Definitely makes sense!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Project mATX is coming along nicely











More in my build log in my sig titled, "Project mATX."

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## orvils

Finally got it all together and doing a leak test.
It is my first watercooled build so don't be harsh on me


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Finally got it all together and doing a leak test.
> It is my first watercooled build so don't be harsh on me


looks good. But more pictures please


----------



## electro2u

any suggestions for dealing with condensation in reservoir?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Finally got it all together and doing a leak test.
> It is my first watercooled build so don't be harsh on me


You missed a spot


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> any suggestions for dealing with condensation in reservoir?


Fill it up
Its normal tho.


----------



## iCrap

my res level has dropped like 2-3 inches since filling it up last year. I wonder if i have a slow leak, or there was air in the system which slowly escaped.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> my res level has dropped like 2-3 inches since filling it up last year. I wonder if i have a slow leak, or there was air in the system which slowly escaped.


It will slowly evaporate trough the tubing too, if you have a lot of tubing it could be a noticeable amount.

2-3 inches is a lot though.


----------



## iCrap

Ah i do have a decent amount of tubing, that could be it.
I think there was also a lot of air in the system initially also.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Ah i do have a decent amount of tubing, that could be it.
> I think there was also a lot of air in the system initially also.


I would fill it back up and keep an eye on it. My loop dropped about a 1/4 of an inch in 2 months . The Monsta was airing out. Loss thru the tubbing itself is common as explained above.


----------



## KiOWA

Hi all.
I finished my first ever water cooled build on Sunday!
I'd love to hear what you all have to say as this is my first attempt at water cooling.



*Parts list:*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*Case:*
Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5
*PSU:*
EVGA SuperNOVA G2 - 850W
*MOBO:*
Asus Maximus VIII Hero
*CPU:*
Intel Core i7 6700k @4.5GHz @1.25v
*RAM:*
G.Skill TridentZ 2x8GB @3200MHz
*GPU(s):*
2x Nvidia ASUS Strix GTX970 - GPU backplates are still on their way.
*Storage:*
2x Samsung EVO 850 250GB (SSD)
*WC parts:*
All EK parts with the exception of a few Bitspower ones
*Other:*
CableMod E-Series G2 & P2 Cable Kit Black/Red
Custom RGB LED IR set up + sound responsiveness


*
Here are some more shots:* (apologies about the camera quality)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> Hi all.
> I finished my first ever water cooled build on Sunday!
> I'd love to hear what you all have to say as this is my first attempt at water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> *Parts list:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Case:*
> Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5
> *PSU:*
> EVGA SuperNOVA G2 - 850W
> *MOBO:*
> Asus Maximus VIII Hero
> *CPU:*
> Intel Core i7 6700k @4.5GHz @1.25v
> *RAM:*
> G.Skill TridentZ 2x8GB @3200MHz
> *GPU(s):*
> 2x Nvidia ASUS Strix GTX970 - GPU backplates are still on their way.
> *Storage:*
> 2x Samsung EVO 850 250GB (SSD)
> *WC parts:*
> All EK parts with the exception of a few Bitspower ones
> *Other:*
> CableMod E-Series G2 & P2 Cable Kit Black/Red
> Custom RGB LED IR set up + sound responsiveness
> 
> 
> *
> Here are some more shots:* (apologies about the camera quality)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean! I really like the effect the coolant picks up with the blue LED.


----------



## wermad

A little teaser of what I'm working on:


----------



## MakaThaDon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A little teaser of what I'm working on:


I'm spying two 295x2 cards? If so, good choice, that's what my system consists of. What PSU are you using?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakaThaDon*
> 
> I'm spying two 295x2 cards? If so, good choice, that's what my system consists of. What PSU are you using?


G1600, one rail (30 amp) per 8-pin. I made a list of units that can run one or crossfire Vesuvius'; it's in the op of the club


----------



## orvils

Here are some more pics of my build.

Also here are the specs:
Case: Parvum S2.0
CPU: i7-4790k
Motherboard: Asrozk Z97m Fatality Killer
Ram: 8GB Hyperx Savage 1866MHz X4
GPU: EVGA GTX 970 ACX 2.0+ SSC
PSU: Silverstone 700w Modular 80+ Bronze (Fan replaced with Parvum F1.0)
Drive1: Crucial 250GB M.2 SSD
Drive2: OCZ 480GB SSD
Drive3: OCZ 480GB SSD
Drive4: WD Blue 1TB 7200rpm
Drive5: WD Blue 1TB 7200rpm

Watercooling:
EK Supremacy MX Acetal CPU Block
EK Thermosphere GPU Block
2x Magicool 240mm Radiators
Magicool DCP450 Pump/Res
EK-ACF Red 10/16mm Compression Fittings
6x Barrow 90 Degree adapters
2x Barrow 45 Degree adapters
1x Barrow 3 way adapter
2x Barrow male to male adapters
1x Barrow ball valve
1x Barrow stop plug
1x Barrow male to female 7mm extender
2x Parvum F1.0 Fans
2x Alpenföhn Wing Boost 2 Fans

All the cables were made and sleeved by myself.

So to recap - doing this build was awesome. I only wish I would have chosen hard tubing. But I like how soft tubing ended up too.
Also I have to clean the side window


----------



## rodaduck

nice i like the floor , very clean ..im almost done with my first build was just getting ready to post an update with 2 pics when i seen your post ..very clean rig and a good segway for my post , i made a little more progress on this build the bottom tube is all mocked up now have to get more cash for more tube and i should be about done , while i am waiting i am doing the little bs that needs to be done and waiting on the lighting ..i have a question , you see the 2 steam punk grills , i was thinking of putting them on the outside of the case and just have the fans showing on the inside , i have the prolimatech ultra sleek with 17 blades and i painted 1 blade of every fan red ..i am on the fence!!!later


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> nice i like the floor , very clean ..im almost done with my first build was just getting ready to post an update with 2 pics when i seen your post ..very clean rig and a good segway for my post , i made a little more progress on this build the bottom tube is all mocked up now have to get more cash for more tube and i should be about done , while i am waiting i am doing the little bs that needs to be done and waiting on the lighting ..i have a question , you see the 2 steam punk grills , i was thinking of putting them on the outside of the case and just have the fans showing on the inside , i have the prolimatech ultra sleek with 17 blades and i painted 1 blade of every fan red ..i am on the fence!!!later
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm trying to understand you GPU loop.... The 2 bars between the GPU, are they a connection or just there for support?

Is that why it splits into 2 ports each?

As far as I can see, that looks like a XSPC WB and those are the XSPC block connections.


----------



## electro2u

I don't know if that will work or not. Definitely not standard config for parallel


----------



## Jakusonfire

The bridges between the blocks just seem to be superfluous but I see no reason it would necessarily hurt.


----------



## rodaduck

they are ports one side going in the other coming out i just used both ports for the looks , it should work fine"i hope if you think about it , its really no different then this


----------



## rodaduck

the bridges give it strength other wise with the rotary fittings the gpu would be unstable 

here is the back of it with both pumps


----------



## rodaduck

they are both , all ports are open on each side but as i was saying without the black bridges it would be unstable , basically its feeding in one side and out the other im just using the front ports to make it happen


----------



## electro2u

it's unique. i like it. my first thought was that it was just normal parallel but it has a really striking sort of... old antique kind of effect, to me anyway


----------



## wermad

Pump it!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pump it!


Pump it real good!


----------



## wermad




----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

This is my updated build
PC:
Rampage IV Black
4930K @ 4.7 ghz 1.425v
Corsair Dominator Platinum 32gb 2133mhz
2 Samsung 512 850 pro SSD Raid-0
Corsair Graphite 760T Case
2 EVGA GTX 980TI Classified's

Water Cooling
EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock (CPU)
2 EK-FC780 GTX Classy (GPU)
1 Black Ice Nemesis 420GTS XFLOW 420mm Rad (Top)
1 Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS XFLOW 280mm Rad (Front)
2 Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS XFLOW 120mm (Bottom & Back)
Koolance RP-452x2 Dual Bay Res W 2 Laing D5 PWM pumps
Lamptron CW611 36W Fan Controller
5 of Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000 PWM
2 of Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000
PrimoChill 1/2in. Rigid PETG Tube
PrimoChill Rigid Revolver fittings


----------



## Sethy666

@H3LLsREAPER911 Very nice









How do you find the Black Ice rads? They have just landed in the shops here.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

i ordered them from frozencpu when they were still in business right before ish hit the fan over there


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@wermad

Still never thought that I would see the day that I would get to see you use hard tubing









TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @wermad
> 
> Still never thought that I would see the day that I would get to see you use hard tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Or more than a single pump . . . .









Evolution must be true,

D.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Well this is overclock.net right. We are constantly trying new things and pushing limits.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Here are some more pics of my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also here are the specs:
> Case: Parvum S2.0
> CPU: i7-4790k
> Motherboard: Asrozk Z97m Fatality Killer
> Ram: 8GB Hyperx Savage 1866MHz X4
> GPU: EVGA GTX 970 ACX 2.0+ SSC
> PSU: Silverstone 700w Modular 80+ Bronze (Fan replaced with Parvum F1.0)
> Drive1: Crucial 250GB M.2 SSD
> Drive2: OCZ 480GB SSD
> Drive3: OCZ 480GB SSD
> Drive4: WD Blue 1TB 7200rpm
> Drive5: WD Blue 1TB 7200rpm
> 
> Watercooling:
> EK Supremacy MX Acetal CPU Block
> EK Thermosphere GPU Block
> 2x Magicool 240mm Radiators
> Magicool DCP450 Pump/Res
> EK-ACF Red 10/16mm Compression Fittings
> 6x Barrow 90 Degree adapters
> 2x Barrow 45 Degree adapters
> 1x Barrow 3 way adapter
> 2x Barrow male to male adapters
> 1x Barrow ball valve
> 1x Barrow stop plug
> 1x Barrow male to female 7mm extender
> 2x Parvum F1.0 Fans
> 2x Alpenföhn Wing Boost 2 Fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the cables were made and sleeved by myself.
> 
> So to recap - doing this build was awesome. I only wish I would have chosen hard tubing. But I like how soft tubing ended up too.
> Also I have to clean the side window


The soft tube looks good. Small form factor chassis look so much better when water cooled over a clunky brick of metal heatpiped fin arrayed copper and steel air cooled tower. Am I allowed to say that on live OCN?









I especially like the cable work. Cable combs and holders (like the sort of circular "revolver" style) make the cabling much more a feature. I like things neat, not necessarily symmetrical, just cleanly done. The color arrangement works well too. Though I would have maintained the same arrangement on the 24 pin as the GPU. But that is me







. You are you and it is nice work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> ..im almost done with my first build was just getting ready to post an update with 2 pics when i seen your post ..very clean rig and a good segway for my post , i made a little more progress on this build the bottom tube is all mocked up now have to get more cash for more tube and i should be about done , while i am waiting i am doing the little bs that needs to be done and waiting on the lighting .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> it's unique. i like it. my first thought was that it was just normal parallel but it has a really striking sort of... old antique kind of effect, to me anyway
Click to expand...

I echo what _electro2u_ said. When I looked at your build, the first thing that came to my mind was old time machinery - antique type.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The bridges between the blocks just seem to be *superfluous* but I see no reason it would necessarily hurt.


OOOOOOHHHHH! He sed superferp... superfuflou... supperf.... tharsa BEEG wurd!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> This is my updated build PC:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Rampage IV Black
> 4930K @ 4.7 ghz 1.425v
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 32gb 2133mhz
> 2 Samsung 512 850 pro SSD Raid-0
> Corsair Graphite 760T Case
> 2 EVGA GTX 980TI Classified's
> 
> Water Cooling
> EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock (CPU)
> 2 EK-FC780 GTX Classy (GPU)
> 1 Black Ice Nemesis 420GTS XFLOW 420mm Rad (Top)
> 1 Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS XFLOW 280mm Rad (Front)
> 2 Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS XFLOW 120mm (Bottom & Back)
> Koolance RP-452x2 Dual Bay Res W 2 Laing D5 PWM pumps
> Lamptron CW611 36W Fan Controller
> 5 of Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000 PWM
> 2 of Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000
> PrimoChill 1/2in. Rigid PETG Tube
> PrimoChill Rigid Revolver fittings


Flat out LUB the tube bending. It reminds me of a good road racing circuit, or maybe a hyper tube.


----------



## Questors

Noctua Industrial fan users rejoice!











Story here:
http://www.modders-inc.com/noctua-introduces-chromax-fan-accessories/
&
http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-chromax-accessories

Interesting how a small piece of rubberish stuff adds such a distinctive touch.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

I had the to bend the tube like that cause i couldn't spend anymore money on fittings. The wife was like ***. When she seen how much money i spent on the upgrade.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> I had the to bend the tube like that cause i couldn't spend anymore money on fittings. The wife was like ***. When she seen how much money i spent on the upgrade.


Hahaha! I can feel your pain. That is the joke behind the "Honey, why don't you build something that nice?"

She looks over my shoulder at the creations here on OCN and gawks at the things people create.

When I mention buying another tool, fitting, tube or a bag of screws, I get, "That computer is going to cost more than our house!" or "Are you kidding? How much did you spend last week?!" The all time great, "I hope you already know which end of that thing you are going to start eating come January, when we have no food money."


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @wermad
> 
> Still never thought that I would see the day that I would get to see you use hard tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Or more than a single pump . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Evolution must be true,
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

Or a D5......


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

I can't wait till Asus releases the PG348Q ASUS 34″ Ultrawide. Shes gonna have a fit. But she will get over it. It will be my last upgrade for a few years.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Noctua Industrial fan users rejoice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Story here:
> http://www.modders-inc.com/noctua-introduces-chromax-fan-accessories/
> &
> http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-chromax-accessories
> 
> Interesting how a small piece of rubberish stuff adds such a distinctive touch.


This just might change everything...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or a D5......


Lmao. Anyone else?

TCO


----------



## wermad

Without sponsorship as well







!

Uhmmmm....no.

Angle fittings, angle fittings, angle fittings! That's what I always said I would do if I went back to acrylic.

D5 I got last year and so far it's pushed my setups without hesitation. I'm surprised you'll don't remember, especially when ppl threw fits in respects to adding a 90 to the inlet... *I guess my pics go unnoticed by some.*

Too many angles + d5 not my liking, hence two d5s (Stren's and Martin's review came in handy). Is skipped the common bp dual top for pumps in sequence instead. Something you don't see often and like doing things differently.

Edit: site is acting up....









Switching to desktop version (on mobile)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Without sponsorship as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> Uhmmmm....no.
> 
> Angle fittings, angle fittings, angle fittings! That's what I always said I would do if I went back to acrylic.
> 
> D5 I got last year and so far it's pushed my setups without hesitation. I'm surprised you'll don't remember, especially when ppl threw fits in respects to *adding a 90 to the inlet.*.. *I guess my pics go unnoticed by some.*
> 
> Too many angles + d5 not my liking, hence two d5s (Stren's and Martin's review came in handy). Is skipped the common bp dual top for pumps in sequence instead. Something you don't see often and like doing things differently.
> 
> Edit: site is acting up....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switching to desktop version (on mobile)










You know, now that you mention it, I kinda do remember that. Although I am not sure why using a D5 is so abnormal (Or was it the fact of you using just one to push fluid through so many rads)

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *Without sponsorship as well*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> Uhmmmm....no.
> 
> Angle fittings, angle fittings, angle fittings! That's what I always said I would do if I went back to acrylic.
> 
> D5 I got last year and so far it's pushed my setups without hesitation. I'm surprised you'll don't remember, especially when ppl threw fits in respects to adding a 90 to the inlet... *I guess my pics go unnoticed by some.*
> 
> Too many angles + d5 not my liking, hence two d5s (Stren's and Martin's review came in handy). Is skipped the common bp dual top for pumps in sequence instead. Something you don't see often and like doing things differently.
> 
> Edit: site is acting up....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switching to desktop version (on mobile)


That really gets up your nose doesnt it? That explains the baiting......

Used 1 dual top in 1 rig out of 4 that had dual pumps.

You add as many 90's as you like,they are your pumps,if you dont want to use good practice then who are we to argue?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Without sponsorship as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> Uhmmmm....no.
> 
> Angle fittings, angle fittings, angle fittings! That's what I always said I would do if I went back to acrylic.
> 
> D5 I got last year and so far it's pushed my setups without hesitation. I'm surprised you'll don't remember, especially when ppl threw fits in respects to *adding a 90 to the inlet.*.. *I guess my pics go unnoticed by some.*
> 
> Too many angles + d5 not my liking, hence two d5s (Stren's and Martin's review came in handy). Is skipped the common bp dual top for pumps in sequence instead. Something you don't see often and like doing things differently.
> 
> Edit: site is acting up....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switching to desktop version (on mobile)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know, now that you mention it, I kinda do remember that. Although I am not sure why using a D5 is so abnormal (Or was it the fact of you using just one to push fluid through so many rads)
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Wermad is the original DDC White Knight,DDC's and that German Company that we cant talk about.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That really gets up your nose doesnt it? That explains the baiting......
> 
> Used 1 dual top in 1 rig out of 4 that had dual pumps.
> 
> You add as many 90's as you like,they are your pumps,if you dont want to use good practice then who are we to argue?
> *Wermad is the original DDC White Knight,DDC's and that German Company that we cant talk about.*....


I see where this is going.



TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That really gets up your nose doesnt it? That explains the baiting......
> 
> Used 1 dual top in 1 rig out of 4 that had dual pumps.
> 
> You add as many 90's as you like,they are your pumps,if you dont want to use good practice then who are we to argue?
> *Wermad is the original DDC White Knight,DDC's and that German Company that we cant talk about.*....
> 
> 
> 
> I see where this is going.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Its not going anywhere,its a simple fact. Wermad loved a DDC.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not going anywhere,its a simple fact. Wermad loved a DDC.


I don't think Werm is Done with DDC pumps, just for a little while.

I share the love for a DDC too, He has a shoulder to lean on.

Also Kinda Just wanted to put a Gif in here. Is that wrong of Me?

TCO


----------



## wermad

@ TCO Lol....my general









Kinda disappointed i didnt get this tool:



My fingers and hands ache from all the sanding. I do use a blade for the inside. Band saw leaves the cuts a bit uneven and with lots burr but it's much more forgiving then the mitter saw. I have a sixty tooth circular saw blade that may have worked better. I use this to cut acrylic sheet.

I'm running out of fittings, so I'll have a nice break. Last order will probably arrive after the new year as it may ship standard post (no dhl discount).

Any one wants to try these Barrow fittings, I recommend AliExpress. The eBay sellers are tad more expensive but are very limited. And Modmymods.com has limited selection. I was eyeing the glass tube res but I went with the reservoirs that attach to their top (think koolance).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not going anywhere,its a simple fact. Wermad loved a DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think Werm is Done with DDC pumps, just for a little while.
> 
> I share the love for a DDC too, He has a shoulder to lean on.
> 
> Also Kinda Just wanted to put a Gif in here. Is that wrong of Me?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Probably not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ TCO Lol....my general
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Kinda disappointed i didnt get this tool:*
> 
> 
> 
> My fingers and hands ache from all the sanding. I do use a blade for the inside. Band saw leaves the cuts a bit uneven and with lots burr but it's much more forgiving then the mitter saw. I have a sixty tooth circular saw blade that may have worked better. I use this to cut acrylic sheet.
> 
> I'm running out of fittings, so I'll have a nice break. Last order will probably arrive after the new year as it may ship standard post (no dhl discount).
> 
> Any one wants to try these Barrow fittings, I recommend AliExpress. The eBay sellers are tad more expensive but are very limited. And Modmymods.com has limited selection. I was eyeing the glass tube res but I went with the reservoirs that attach to their top (think koolance).


A simple piece of wet and dry gives a much better finish than that tool Wermad,you didnt miss out.


----------



## wermad

I'll try my orbital sander with 500 wet. I have to spend a good 5-10 minutes (by hand) on each end to get it smooth. I've killed about 10 o-rings so far but I think it's down to the variance of o-rings. Swapping them with the multitude of extras that come with them helps.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'll try my orbital sander with 500 wet. I have to spend a good 5-10 minutes on each end to get it smooth. I've killed about 10 o-rings so far but I think it's down to the variance of o-rings. Swapping them with the multitude of extras that come with them helps.


It works better using your palm as it allows the paper to profile to the edges.
A smear of silicone will definitely help with the insertion cutting

I just use a small fine flat file and a quick rub of the W+D myself.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Probably not.
> 
> A simple piece of wet and dry gives a much better finish than that tool Wermad,you didnt miss out.


I use my long thumb nail to get the sanded pieces of acrylic from inside the tube out, Always used a handsaw to cut acrylic. Never a band saw, and sanded down every edge after cutting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @ *TCO Lol....my general*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda disappointed i didnt get this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> My fingers and hands ache from all the sanding..


All Good










Give me another box of bullets. Ill fight until the death.



TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ill fight until the death.
> 
> TCO


Dont worry,I will make it quick.....I need the exercise before lunch.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont worry,I will make it quick.....I need the exercise before lunch.


(Stretching and cracking knuckles)



It would be my pleasure.









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Oh purleeeze......

Silly boy.

You can stop with the gifs now too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Oh purleeeze......
> 
> Silly boy.
> 
> You can stop with the gifs now too.


I'm satisfied.









Appreciate the entertainment B neg









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A pleasure as always


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wermad is the original DDC White Knight,DDC's and that German Company that we cant talk about.....


Did any1 mentioned Alphastool?


----------



## wermad

(Opera crashing







)

I file the outer edge at and angle while rotating the tube to avoid flat spots. Cupping the paper can scratch the tube so I'm playing safe by making it more labor intensive (







). Gonna check Homes if they have something like this:



Or this:



Edit: I'm almost done so this would be just a waste. May redo some of the runs as the look a bit off.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Hey I used a Ridgid 32975 1/8-Inch to 5/8-Inch Close Quarters Tubing Cutter. Doesn't leave a mess like the saw. Not that expensive either.


----------



## wermad

Used my sander and wow! Much quicker and fittings are going in much smoother. I'm still using 500 grit and a bit of water.

My band saw still works for me as its quick and I already have one.


----------



## orvils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> The soft tube looks good. Small form factor chassis look so much better when water cooled over a clunky brick of metal heatpiped fin arrayed copper and steel air cooled tower. Am I allowed to say that on live OCN?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I especially like the cable work. Cable combs and holders (like the sort of circular "revolver" style) make the cabling much more a feature. I like things neat, not necessarily symmetrical, just cleanly done. The color arrangement works well too. Though I would have maintained the same arrangement on the 24 pin as the GPU. But that is me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You are you and it is nice work.


Thanks for kind words!









When I first planned the build I was not even thinking about watercooling. Wanted to use stock GPU cooler and some AIO on CPU. But decided to do it because of the looks mostly. At first I had only added CPU to the loop and and GPU on air. And damm the GPU was so loud(especially when overclocked). Fans on radiators were running at 500rpm most of the time. 900rpm under load. So without thinking I ordered a block for my GPU (hardest part was finding one, since there are no full cover blocks for my card, but EK Thermosphere with heavy modifications to mounting plate worked). After adding GPU to the loop it is so quiet. I can hear my mechanical drives over the fans at idle and at load they make about the same amount of noise. I will never go back to air!









The thing with color arrangement for sleeving - at first I wanted to get Asus Strix 970. And that one only has one 8pin. I did the sleeving some time ago, before I even had my components. So I made all the cables and then saw a nice deal for EVGA 970 SSC. And had to sleeve one more 6pin.
I tend to change the arrangement of the PCI-E cables sometime when I get bored. But it is quite hard to take out PCI-E cables when the case is quite small and fully packed.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> . After adding GPU to the loop it is so quiet. I can hear my mechanical drives over the fans at idle and at load they make about the same amount of noise. *I will never go back to air!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> .












TCO


----------



## Freakn

This thread used to be really active, I hadn't look in here for 4 days and there was only 60 posts. Go back 6 months there would of been 5 times that.

Things change I guess


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> This thread used to be really active, I hadn't look in here for 4 days and there was only 60 posts. Go back 6 months there would of been 5 times that.
> 
> Things change I guess


I bet there will be quite a few builds post Christmas and what not.


----------



## Ithanul

Yep, wait tell after holidays or new hardware shows up.

Already getting my hands on some water cool goodies. The folder is overdue for a rebuild.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> Hey I used a Ridgid 32975 1/8-Inch to 5/8-Inch Close Quarters Tubing Cutter. Doesn't leave a mess like the saw. Not that expensive either.


Mmmm, for acrylic? If so I may need to nab me one of those. Pain in the butt using a hand saw.

Ah, before I forget. What a good mid-size case that decent for water cool, but not crazy expensive. Just need one to hold me over till I can nab a CaseLab for the folder. Don't care if I have to mod it to take a 360 rad. Reason I keep my dremel around.


----------



## Freakn

I really need to get my rig under water again, really keen to see what my X5650 can do when pushed.

No doubt I'll get flamed for saying that but its just my opinion
The vibes very different in here these days, that might have something to do with the lower activity levels


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> No doubt I'll get flamed for saying that but its just my opinion The vibes very different in here these days, that might have something to do with the lower activity levels


Vibe? Not sure what you mean.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Just finished my loop today. Still a pesky bubble in the pump I can not get out. Aside from that all is well.


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Just finished my loop today. Still a pesky bubble in the pump I can not get out. Aside from that all is well.


Looks good, I think a soft tube build can still look good even though most now say it must be hardline or copper


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Just finished my loop today. Still a pesky bubble in the pump I can not get out. Aside from that all is well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and neat








But I'ld be concerned that the short tube from res to pump inlet is going to kink and try an alternative approach for that section.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> Looks good, I think a soft tube build can still look good even though most now say it must be hardline or copper


Hard looks nice when done well. But it's a bigger PITA. This had a leak in the block when I first filled it. That would have been a bigger ordeal with hard tube. I just drained enough fluid the empty the top half, popped the block off. Then fixed it. Ran it for a bit with the block still off to make sure I had fixed it. The just popped it back on the CPU. Soft is much easier to live with. lol And I am a bit partial to the look still.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice and neat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'ld be concerned that the short tube from res to pump inlet is going to kink and try an alternative approach for that section.


I had the same bend before on the old loop for about six months. Same Primo LTR tubing. Was CPU only then. No issues. But, I will keep an eye on it. I check things out about once a week anyway.


----------



## fast_fate

@Prophet4NO1 Cool Bananas









PC-Q08 - with a few twists.
current build in mock up / construction stage - and started some cable making


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Prophet4NO1 Cool Bananas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PC-Q08 - with a few twists.
> current build in mock up / construction stage - and started some cable making


Talk about a tight fit. Wow.


----------



## fast_fate

Guess I'm a sucker for working in small Lian Li cases.

from Super-Charged 351.....


----------



## jon666

Leak testing, and will soon see if my solder job on my 390 worked. At least I managed to get my universal block on it. I noobed it up when filling it. Forgot to plug up drain port again xD luckily rads and whatnot are on the outside of my case. Can't wait to see what it will clock to.


----------



## rodaduck

that looks awesome , and the gold isn't to much


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> This thread used to be really active, I hadn't look in here for 4 days and there was only 60 posts. Go back 6 months there would of been 5 times that.
> 
> Things change I guess


Its the normal ebb and flow, forums in general have slowed down massively over the last year or so.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the normal ebb and flow, forums in general have slowed down massively over the last year or so.


I've noticed this too


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ill Spice It up in the next couple months.

Plan on building another S3, with Pedestal... and Honestly I think Ill try to make it fabulous.

I feel as though the ped will give me some options that I have yet to run into building in an S3. So the opportunities will be plentiful.

TCO


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ill Spice It up in the next couple months.
> 
> Plan on building *another S3, with Pedestal*... and Honestly I think Ill try to make it fabulous.
> 
> I feel as though the ped will give me some options that I have yet to run into building in an S3. So the opportunities will be plentiful.
> 
> TCO


----------



## Prophet4NO1

More pics of the build.


----------



## Nichismo

^^^ LOVE the reds vibrance in those beautiful GPU blocks







EK has really stepped up their game with their line of fittings too.....

man its been far too long since ive posted anything on OCN!

After my rig went about half a year without seeing a single boot or post, I upgraded from my 780ti SLI setup to a couple 980ti in SLI, I actually had both waterblocks and backplates before I had both GPUs..... lol. I usually bask in the awesomeness of a brand new nickel plexi EK block when I first open the box to one, just sorta stare at them for a while because their so beautiful and robust.

I was really excited to use them, but I ended up doing a whole system teardown and thorough cleaning of my case and all other components... But I snapped these pics before work. Pretty close to having it back up and running again, and ill actually add some Mayhems for some colors this time. (I have pastel black, UV green, pastel green and pastel white. Not sure what combination yet). and ill make a few small tubing changes.


----------



## Nichismo

Woah so weird, I mention just now how I havnt posted or used my Rig in over half a year, then I simply scroll a few posts up and end up reading about how the forums have apparently been lacking in typical enthusiasm lately?? odd

itll come around im sure


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ill Spice It up in the next couple months.
> 
> Plan on building another S3, with Pedestal... and Honestly I think Ill try to make it fabulous.
> 
> I feel as though the ped will give me some options that I have yet to run into building in an S3. So the opportunities will be plentiful.
> 
> TCO


I'll try to too. Planning an in win s-frame build


----------



## Kyle1519

Hey guys, been a few years since the last time I posted on OCN. Built a new rig earlier this year and just got all the watercooling in last weekend. Figured I'd do some overclocking and post some pictures of the build this weekend. Let me know what you guys think!
















Build:
5930k @ 4.3 1.25
ASUS Rampage V Extreme
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16gb 2800mhz
EVGA 980TI x 2
Corsair AX1500i
Corsair 750D

Water Cooling:
EK-FB ASUS RVE Monoblock (CPU)
EK Titan X block x2
EK CoolStream XE360 Rad (Top)
XSPC 240mm Rad (Front)
FrozenQ LF Reaction Double Helix 160mm Res
Swiftech MCP655 D5 Pump
Corsair SP120 High Performance x7
Corsair AF120 High Performance x2
Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition
Bitspower fitting & acrylic tubing


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yep, wait tell after holidays or new hardware shows up.
> 
> Already getting my hands on some water cool goodies. The folder is overdue for a rebuild.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> Hey I used a Ridgid 32975 1/8-Inch to 5/8-Inch Close Quarters Tubing Cutter. Doesn't leave a mess like the saw. Not that expensive either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mmmm, for acrylic? If so I may need to nab me one of those. Pain in the butt using a hand saw.
> 
> Ah, before I forget. What a good mid-size case that decent for water cool, but not crazy expensive. Just need one to hold me over till I can nab a CaseLab for the folder. Don't care if I have to mod it to take a 360 rad. Reason I keep my dremel around.
Click to expand...

Get a Fractal Define S . No internals and it will take a 360 in the top with no modding as well as the front of the case. $89+Shipping from Newegg.

~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> man its been far too long since ive posted anything on OCN!


Fascinated by the RAM block with the plug in one of the ports.

(Oops, sorry--I just noticed it wasn't finished yet.)

It's pretty epic.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

From this.....



To this......


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyle1519*
> 
> Hey guys, been a few years since the last time I posted on OCN. Built a new rig earlier this year and just got all the watercooling in last weekend. Figured I'd do some overclocking and post some pictures of the build this weekend. Let me know what you guys think!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Build:
> 5930k @ 4.3 1.25
> ASUS Rampage V Extreme
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 16gb 2800mhz
> EVGA 980TI x 2
> Corsair AX1500i
> Corsair 750D
> 
> Water Cooling:
> EK-FB ASUS RVE Monoblock (CPU)
> EK Titan X block x2
> EK CoolStream XE360 Rad (Top)
> XSPC 240mm Rad (Front)
> FrozenQ LF Reaction Double Helix 160mm Res
> Swiftech MCP655 D5 Pump
> Corsair SP120 High Performance x7
> Corsair AF120 High Performance x2
> Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition
> Bitspower fitting & acrylic tubing


Reminds me of something I would build!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> From this.....
> 
> 
> 
> To this......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Like the finished the product. The EK badges look good with the new color over.


----------



## sinnedone

@B NEGATIVE

Looks good.









Vynil or paint on the copper bits? (on mobile hard to see)


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> From this.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great, masking off everything must have been an utter pita.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vynil or paint on the copper bits? (on mobile hard to see)


Paint for the copper,vinyl for everything else.


----------



## sinnedone

Nice.

Any etching primer or just paint?

I usually use a black paint used to restore car radiators that has good enough bite to not really need anything else.


----------



## snef

tried some Graphics on SSD and GPU


----------



## sinnedone

Looks good snef.









The ssd's going to be visible in that orientation in the build?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks good snef.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ssd's going to be visible in that orientation in the build?


Thanks,

for now they are planned to be in back (Parvum M1.0 case), but I will try in front for sure, if I put SSD in front , I will change the GPU Graphics for something more similar to stay with same style


----------



## rsvette12

Looks amazing as always - your innovation is has been inspiring


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Paint for the copper,vinyl for everything else.


The work you did on that MB using vinyl is very good. I would not have known (and surprised to read) it if you had not said it was so. How does vinyl work out for covering D5 pump motors? Never used it, but was considering using some to cover my dual D5's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> tried some Graphics on SSD and GPU


Very cool looking stuff! The graphic on the GPU block, puts me in the mind of a really ticked off dragon.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get a Fractal Define S . No internals and it will take a 360 in the top with no modding as well as the front of the case. $89+Shipping from Newegg.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah, many thanks. Looks like what I been looking for.







Should work just right for the folder.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> From this.....
> 
> 
> 
> To this......
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


O my, I really need to start looking into parts for my two Compact Splashes. These small builds keep making me jelly. Plus, they way over due to for their buildlogs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yep, wait tell after holidays or new hardware shows up.
> 
> Already getting my hands on some water cool goodies. The folder is overdue for a rebuild.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get a Fractal Define S . No internals and it will take a 360 in the top with no modding as well as the front of the case. $89+Shipping from Newegg.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, many thanks. Looks like what I been looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should work just right for the folder..
Click to expand...

It is a perfect for Folding to be certain. No extra cables from ODDs to worry about and cable management keeps the cooling zone free of clutter. I plan to get one at the end of the month for a temp case to get my system back up. Certainly has been down long enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Things are coming along...





































More in my *build log*.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*


I have not passed up the idea of your case for a NAS









I just want one more S3 before the Cut off.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'll try to too. Planning an in win s-frame build


You stop the Madness right now









I can tell you I've never wanted to build in the frame due to my thoughts about dust prevention.








I guess if the place you were going to use the case were clean (Always) then sure, but ahhhh.... Lets just say I've never considered the S frame (Or any of those types of frames)

TCO


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Things are coming along...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More in my *build log*.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


I like it man.

Things are also coming along over here. A little mock up at the back.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have not passed up the idea of your case for a NAS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just want one more S3 before the Cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You stop the Madness right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can tell you I've never wanted to build in the frame due to my thoughts about dust prevention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess if the place you were going to use the case were clean (Always) then sure, but ahhhh.... Lets just say I've never considered the S frame (Or any of those types of frames)
> 
> TCO


Feel like it's an easy come easy go situation, no? Guess we'll see how it goes


----------



## VeritronX

I've ordered myself an early christmas present, looking to make a bit of an experiment out of it.



Hopefully it will work with some of the 3/8" barbs I have lying around and I won't have to try and find something smaller.

Also prices are in AUD, the cart total is $10 less than the cost of a H105, H110 or H100i GTX from the same store.


----------



## Vesimas

I'm summoning the expert for a little help for my first time water loop setup







Look at the picture and tell me if i made mistakes in the planning of the loop/airflow/drain system etc. etc.








The setup would be:

Phanteks Enthoo Primo
Alphacool UT60 360 push/pull
Alphacool XT45 480 push/pull
EK Vardar F4-120ER
EK X-Res 140 Revo D5 PWN with multi top for inlet and fill
EK Supremacy EVO or EK block for Hero VIII
EK GTX 970 WF3 + Backplate
EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Black
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 9,5 mm (3/8") / 15,9 mm (5/8") - Crystal Clear tube
EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (premix 1L)
Maybe some 45/90° adapters for simple tubing

Thank you


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> I'm summoning the expert for a little help for my first time water loop setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the picture and tell me if i made mistakes in the planning of the loop/airflow/drain system etc. etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The setup would be:
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo
> Alphacool UT60 360 push/pull
> Alphacool XT45 480 push/pull
> EK Vardar F4-120ER
> EK X-Res 140 Revo D5 PWN with multi top for inlet and fill
> EK Supremacy EVO or EK block for Hero VIII
> EK GTX 970 WF3 + Backplate
> EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Black
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 9,5 mm (3/8") / 15,9 mm (5/8") - Crystal Clear tube
> EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (premix 1L)
> Maybe some 45/90° adapters for simple tubing
> 
> Thank you


Take a look at my old build log on the enthoo primo. 480 on top will not have fill ports open on top and will take the bays space. A 420 rad have even more rad space (a little) but will line up the top ports nicely in both orientations and will give you room for a fan controller in the front bays. Ball valve should be placed at the bottom of the bottom rad using a L adapter. Multi-port rads would come handy for both top and bottom. I would go with HWlabs multi-port but Acool does have multi-ports too. Personally I would drop the ut 360 on the bottom and take a 280 mm there and a 240 mm front. more rad space and better space wise.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Finally got around to making a video to help show Aurora 2 in action.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The EK Predator AIO that im using for the In Win 901 build. I like the performance out of the box but I wanted more......so out comes the 6w DDC and in goes an EK 18w PWM unit with the heatsink kit to tidy things up.





I do like the integrated hub and what not...



The MX block which im not using.







DDC pumps are fugly so......out with the 6w and in with the 18w with a heatsink. Used the existing wiring and resoldered the 18w on to keep everything tidy for the cabling.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The EK Predator AIO that im using for the In Win 901 build. I like the performance out of the box but I wanted more......so out comes the 6w DDC and in goes an EK 18w PWM unit with the heatsink kit to tidy things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do like the integrated hub and what not...
> 
> 
> 
> The MX block which im not using.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDC pumps are fugly so......out with the 6w and in with the 18w with a heatsink. Used the existing wiring and resoldered the 18w on to keep everything tidy for the cabling.


Just seen your post on FB in the EK fan page before coming here. lol


----------



## Vesimas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ball valve should be placed at the bottom of the bottom rad using a L adapter.


For L adapter you mean a 90° adapter like this one?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Take a look at my old build log on the enthoo primo. 480 on top will not have fill ports open on top and will take the bays space. A 420 rad have even more rad space (a little) but will line up the top ports nicely in both orientations and will give you room for a fan controller in the front bays.


Can i just use one of the multi top port as fill port?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> For L adapter you mean a 90° adapter like this one?
> Can i just use one of the multi top port as fill port?


Yep and yep. But, besides the 90 degrees you will probably need some extenders too (http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c101/s1354/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Accessories-Fitting_Extenders-Page1.html). Most ports will be too close to the side of the case on the right side bottom of the rad. That means you will need to use the left side port on the rad bottom and use the 90 + some extension of tube or adapters to install the ball valve. In regard to the fill port you can use the reservoir spare port as a fill port. Yet, using a port on top of the top rad would be the easy and hassle free way to fill up the system since that would help a long way with the bleeding since the top rad would be fill up and bleeding would be a breeze.

here is what I meant:



you can see the port close to the side panel would be too close to install the ball valve (imagine the port on the bottom part of the rad been at the same position like the one on top).


----------



## Vesimas

Ok i understand now







Btw i was thinking to use the UT60 in the bottom for that reason, here the picture of the opposite side of the port.



EDIT: now i suppose i could use an UT60 420 on top and use that same port as fill, since there is some space left regard an 480 rad (obs if it fits the top of an enthoo primo)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> Ok i understand now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw i was thinking to use the UT60 in the bottom for that reason, here the picture of the opposite side of the port.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: now i suppose i could use an UT60 420 on top and use that same port as fill, since there is some space left regard an 480 rad (obs if it fits the top of an enthoo primo)


it does but I would go 45 mm version for push and pull. That would avoid any conflicts with MB and also give you more cooling and less noise. UT60 with only one row of fans x xt45 push-pull I would go xt45....

That drain port might be useful for the bottom rad but for the top would be much easier and efficient to just use the normal port which in the 420 mm will be free and ready to use with very easy access to it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Of course B has to go and mod an AiO lol


----------



## Vesimas

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That drain port might be useful for the bottom rad but for the top would be much easier and efficient to just use the normal port which in the 420 mm will be free and ready to use with very easy access to it.


Now that i think of i'm ******ed, i was thinking about the rad at the very end of tha cse with no use for the side port when i can just move it forward a little :/ Thanx for the help


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The EK Predator AIO that im using for the In Win 901 build. I like the performance out of the box but I wanted more......so out comes the 6w DDC and in goes an EK 18w PWM unit with the heatsink kit to tidy things up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do like the integrated hub and what not...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The MX block which im not using.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDC pumps are fugly so......out with the 6w and in with the 18w with a heatsink. Used the existing wiring and resoldered the 18w on to keep everything tidy for the cabling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can't wait to see how you're going to stuff a 240mm radiator in there.


----------



## jeryko87

Hey everyone. I'm going to start my first watercooling project in a few days. Just waiting for a few bits and pieces. Would like to get your take on something: I'm thinking of painting the fans to give the whole thing a bit of a personality boost. Just did the first one yesterday. The question is whicj do you like best: the stock all white on the left of the painted blue on the right?


Here's one with the rad

Thanks for the input.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*


Is that norprene or the ek stuff?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeryko87*
> 
> Hey everyone. I'm going to start my first watercooling project in a few days. Just waiting for a few bits and pieces. Would like to get your take on something: I'm thinking of painting the fans to give the whole thing a bit of a personality boost. Just did the first one yesterday. The question is whicj do you like best: the stock all white on the left of the painted blue on the right?
> 
> 
> Here's one with the rad
> 
> Thanks for the input.


White is fine but that Smurf Blue pops.









~Ceadder


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> 
> _not untill you post pics. _
> 
> 
> DOH! Sorry... Pic enclosed.


that's just a AIO loop. Not real water cooling. You should join the CorsairAIO club instead. This is for serious full custom loops.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is that norprene or the ek stuff?


the ek rubber tube. This was in 2013 if I am not mistaken. I like that tube.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> that's just a AIO loop. Not real water cooling. You should join the CorsairAIO club instead. This is for serious full custom loops.


I hope I'm just taking the bait, but you arent serious are you.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I hope I'm just taking the bait, but you arent serious are you.


Pretty sure its just a big mouth new guy trying to sound clever.

(Especially funny considering he's quoting a post from 2009







)


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> that's just a AIO loop. Not real water cooling. You should join the CorsairAIO club instead. This is for serious full custom loops.


Your first post is to quote a 2009 zombie post. You did not win the internet today. Better luck next time.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I hope I'm just taking the bait, but you arent serious are you.


lol. Nah I'm just trolling. I have a bad habit







have to stop on forums I like.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> that's just a AIO loop. Not real water cooling. You should join the CorsairAIO club instead. This is for serious full custom loops.


Dude, that was posted in 2009 but thank you for your advice.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> lol. Nah I'm just trolling. I have a bad habit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have to stop on forums I like.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Pretty sure its just a big mouth new guy trying to sound clever.
> 
> (Especially funny considering he's quoting a post from 2009
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


nah. I just wanted to see reactions. In all seriousness apologies for desecrating this fine forum with that trash.


----------



## DarthBaggins




----------



## wermad

Waiting on backorder items, so my build is on hold for now....







. i did get the bp led plugs and the pump vibration bushings/dampers. Here's my progress so far. I can't plumb the last couple of runs as I need to position my pumps and that will determine where the last bulkhead goes through. Mind the crappy pictures (







).


----------



## Sethy666

@wermad Very nice


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeryko87*
> 
> Hey everyone. I'm going to start my first watercooling project in a few days. Just waiting for a few bits and pieces. Would like to get your take on something: I'm thinking of painting the fans to give the whole thing a bit of a personality boost. Just did the first one yesterday. The question is whicj do you like best: the stock all white on the left of the painted blue on the right?
> 
> 
> Here's one with the rad
> 
> Thanks for the input.


I really like the blue, but your going to have to do a good job of using that color with other accents to make it work well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> 
> _not untill you post pics. _
> 
> 
> DOH! Sorry... Pic enclosed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's just a AIO loop. Not real water cooling. You should join the CorsairAIO club instead. This is for serious full custom loops.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> 
> _not untill you post pics. _
> 
> 
> DOH! Sorry... Pic enclosed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's just a AIO loop. Not real water cooling. You should join the CorsairAIO club instead. This is for serious full custom loops.
Click to expand...

And you are very wrong,AIO's are welcome,they are watercooling too.

We do not discriminate here.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And you are very wrong,AIO's are welcome,they are watercooling too.
> 
> We do not discriminate here.


that's good to hear. The main reason for that trolly post was my brother posted corsair AIO loop on here a few years ago and pretty much got laughed out of the forum. He wanted to try water cooling because I've been doing it for years and posted on here before he even showed me his rig. Kind of the same reason I stay away from posting on here but if that was just an isolated incident of ass***** then you all have my apologies.


----------



## VeritronX

Anyone here tried filling and bleeding a loop using the second set of holes on the other side of a radiator? I'm looking to do that with the RX120v3 and H55 I bought and any insight would be appreciated =)


----------



## mus1mus

Have the patience to do that. Doable but harder than just filling thru the res.


----------



## Trito

Hei guys.
Just wanted to ask pro's of the wc. I am planning to get my new build under the water. However I tent to travel a lot and I was wondering how ok would it actually be to transport water cooled Corsair 250D without draining the loop for around 2h car drive each way every two weeks or so. I would be going with acrylic or petg tubing and would pack it in the original box and tie it up with seatbelt. I know I could go with sealed loops like H100i but damn I want to get a proper loop.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Anyone here tried filling and bleeding a loop using the second set of holes on the other side of a radiator? I'm looking to do that with the RX120v3 and H55 I bought and any insight would be appreciated =)


Absolutely!

On Daedalic I have two UT60s up top and the reservoir (lower) in the system.

I use two items to do this - one tube with a g1/4 fitting on one end and a funnel on the other, and then short rigid tube with just a fitting on one end and open on the other. The tube with the funnel's purpose is obvious. The other is because as you fill the radiator the opposite side's water level will spike and then settle and the second tube helps keep that spike from spilling water into your system from the second open port

To fill the system I remove an upward facing plug from each of the top radiators (in your case the one radiator should work if it has two suitable plugs). Then screw in the fittings on the previously mentioned tubes.

I pour coolant into the funnel - slowly - until the slightest bit of coolant starts filling the second tube. Then I open the reservoir cap in the system below. The water in the radiators drain into the other radiators below. After repeating a few times (Daedalic takes almost a gallon all said and done) water starts to fill the reservoir.

Once the reservoir and top radiators are filled by repeating the above steps you remove the two tubes, plug the radiator ports, and can use the pump(s) to cycle remaining air into the top radiators and reservoir. Once the reservoir is low, turn off the pumps and reconnect your fill tubes. Add more water and then loosen the reservoir cap to let it fill from the water you just put in the top rad. Close the cap once it's near the top of the reservoir tube, top off the radiator, remove the fill tubes again, and run the pumps.

Repeat until no more air bubbles and water falls


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Hei guys.
> Just wanted to ask pro's of the wc. I am planning to get my new build under the water. However I tent to travel a lot and I was wondering how ok would it actually be to transport water cooled Corsair 250D without draining the loop for around 2h car drive each way every two weeks or so. I would be going with acrylic or petg tubing and would pack it in the original box and tie it up with seatbelt. I know I could go with sealed loops like H100i but damn I want to get a proper loop.


It won't be a problem,I do it all the time.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It won't be a problem,I do it all the time.


Oh that is nice to hear. Do you transport your tri-sli setup? What kind of tubing do you have? And lastly how do you prepare it/pack it?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@ShiftysBlade

Better Watch Yourself. I had to Take B_Neg around Back the other day for talking Smack.









We all like a good Fight round here.

TCO


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Hei guys.
> Just wanted to ask pro's of the wc. I am planning to get my new build under the water. However I tent to travel a lot and I was wondering how ok would it actually be to transport water cooled Corsair 250D without draining the loop for around 2h car drive each way every two weeks or so. I would be going with acrylic or petg tubing and would pack it in the original box and tie it up with seatbelt. I know I could go with sealed loops like H100i but damn I want to get a proper loop.


I get paranoid about the big heavy video cards flopping around and possibly damaging the slots on the motherboard. When I transported mine in the past I cut Styrofoam to fit the inside of the case with cutouts for the cards to limit their mobility


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I get paranoid about the big heavy video cards flopping around and possibly damaging the slots on the motherboard. When I transported mine in the past I cut Styrofoam to fit the inside of the case with cutouts for the cards to limit their mobility


That is a good idea. However since I have 250D and mobo is sitting horizontally I would expect that GPU will put way less pressure on motherboard.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> @wermad Very nice


Thank you









I should be getting my reservoirs soon but they attach to the delayed pump tops. So, I'm still on idle waiting for stuff to ship







. With the holidays, it may be longer then normal...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @ShiftysBlade
> 
> Better Watch Yourself. I had to Take B_Neg around Back the other day for talking Smack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We all like a good Fight round here.
> 
> TCO


You have not taken me round the back of anywhere youngster.

The fact you are still here is testament to that.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I get paranoid about the big heavy video cards flopping around and possibly damaging the slots on the motherboard. When I transported mine in the past *I cut Styrofoam to fit the inside of the case with cutouts for the cards to limit their mobility*
> 
> 
> 
> That is a good idea. However since I have 250D and mobo is sitting horizontally I would expect that GPU will put way less pressure on motherboard.
Click to expand...

It is sound advice,well worth doing


----------



## Nichismo

nally got my rig back up and running after a very long time off and inactive.....

except with a couple SLI 980tis and new coolant instead of clear to boot.....

really happy with it right now, just about to fire it up.....


----------



## wermad

Great stuff!


----------



## kl6mk6

Anyone know if PPC sells an equivalent part to this? They don't seem to have the EK version, and I need to extend the recessed port on my EK bridge.

EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Anyone know if PPC sells an equivalent part to this? They don't seem to have the EK version, and I need to extend the recessed port on my EK bridge.
> 
> EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel


Bitspower do one.

You could just go to the EK webshop you know?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Anyone know if PPC sells an equivalent part to this? They don't seem to have the EK version, and I need to extend the recessed port on my EK bridge.
> 
> EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel


http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-extender-g1-4.html

and you could also use EK shop as B neg said. Works very well.


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Anyone know if PPC sells an equivalent part to this? They don't seem to have the EK version, and I need to extend the recessed port on my EK bridge.
> 
> EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel


Here you go

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=g1%2F4+extender


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower do one.
> 
> You could just go to the EK webshop you know?


Yeah, but shipping to Alaska can be expensive. Its usually cheepest to use USPS. From EK it's $16.60 for a $2.64 part.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Here you go
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=g1%2F4+extender


I looked through those, it has to have a small diameter to fit into the recess on the EK bridge.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-extender-g1-4.html
> 
> and you could also use EK shop as B neg said. Works very well.


I think that's it. Thanks!


----------



## rsvette12

Does look like it - if you want to be sure I can check mine tonight as I have one on my rig I am building


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have not taken me round the back of anywhere youngster.
> 
> The fact you are still here is testament to that.....




Are we doing this Again???

@wermad Hold Me Back

TCO



Spoiler: The Plot In You!


----------



## wermad




----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the normal ebb and flow, forums in general have slowed down massively over the last year or so.
> 
> 
> 
> I've noticed this too
Click to expand...

Seems to have hit sometime around the website update, or maybe before.

I think I may have to open up my door and inspect to make sure I don't have any green friends in the loop, so far 2 months with no problems (that I know of). Also need to take "final" pics, but setup to do proper pics takes a long while, and transporting the PC is no fun lol. The winter ambients of 16C in the basement really make this thing run cool. Idling at 20C or below on all components is quite funny. Makes me feel like I should be taking advantage, benching or something


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower do one.
> 
> You could just go to the EK webshop you know?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but shipping to Alaska can be expensive. Its usually cheepest to use USPS. From EK it's $16.60 for a $2.64 part.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Here you go
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=g1%2F4+extender
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I looked through those, it has to have a small diameter to fit into the recess on the EK bridge.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-extender-g1-4.html
> 
> and you could also use EK shop as B neg said. Works very well.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think that's it. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Hey dude, these are what you're looking for:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ek+socket+extender

The first 3 results.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Noob question. Never used a pwm pump before. I got the ddc 3.2 pwm. So if I use the 4 pin to the mb do I still have to hook up the molex plug as well or is it one or the other? Thanks in advance.


----------



## emsj86

@Nichismo on your sm8 build how much clearance do you have for the two reservoirs. I be been wanting to and wanted to see if it's possible to fit two of those same res pump combos with my setup which is Abel 360 xen(I believe 60mm thick rad) up front. I really like the look of two reservoirs and the fact of having two different colors and cleaner tubing runs is a plus. Also a little off topic but deals with my build is anyone know someone whom I can give an idea of a design and they can make and print it for me. I see snef and others using designs on there gpu s , ssd, and psu that I would like to do. (I want a winter snow flake blue and white design) thanks guys


----------



## rsvette12

Not sure but I would assume you have to hook up molex and 4 pin is used to control the pump speeds


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Noob question. Never used a pwm pump before. I got the ddc 3.2 pwm. So if I use the 4 pin to the mb do I still have to hook up the molex plug as well or is it one or the other? Thanks in advance.


power and ground go to the psu, pwm and sensor go on to your mb or pwm controller









edit: sometimes, the pump already has them separated for you (molex and 4-pin pwm fan plug). like this:


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> power and ground go to the psu, pwm and sensor go on to your mb or pwm controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: sometimes, the pump already has them separated for you (molex and 4-pin pwm fan plug). like this:


Hi I have a couple of these non PWM - where do I connect the small cable I would assume I dont do anything with it correct ? thanks

Supplied manual does not mention anything about wiring


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Hi I have a couple of these non PWM - where do I connect the small cable I would assume I dont do anything with it correct ? thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats your RPM sensor. You can hook it up to a mobo fan header and see your pump speed if you want. I run my D5 at 3300RPM. If I change it to purge air or anything, I can easily set it back to where it was.


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Thats your RPM sensor. You can hook it up to a mobo fan header and see your pump speed if you want. I run my D5 at 3300RPM. If I change it to purge air or anything, I can easily set it back to where it was.


Ah thanks so much - I didnt think it was a ground - still building rig but I have it at 3,000rpm at the moment - have to see what to do when adding fluids for the first time - take care


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Hi I have a couple of these non PWM - where do I connect the small cable I would assume I dont do anything with it correct ? thanks
> 
> Supplied manual does not mention anything about wiring
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Thats your RPM sensor. You can hook it up to a mobo fan header and see your pump speed if you want. I run my D5 at 3300RPM. If I change it to purge air or anything, I can easily set it back to where it was.
Click to expand...

This. Its not crucial but if you want to monitor the speed (much like monitoring a fan's rpm), it can go into a mb or a controller if it has speed read-out. My current D5 has a standard fan plug for the speed sensor and a molex for the power+ground. The new D5s I have only have power and ground. Not a biggie since I don't bother with the speed sensor and I'll just run them at #5 (like my current d5).


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This. Its not crucial but if you want to monitor the speed (much like monitoring a fan's rpm), it can go into a mb or a controller if it has speed read-out. My current D5 has a standard fan plug for the speed sensor and a molex for the power+ground. The new D5s I have only have power and ground. Not a biggie since I don't bother with the speed sensor and I'll just run them at #5 (like my current d5).


Good to know - great info - 5 thats interesting - nice have to play with it when time comes - running the much larger reservoirs than shown in picture

Wow 22,104 posts thats amazing I thought my 8,000 in flightsim forum was pretty high - congrats









i was not going to post any pics until I had a real camera but hey throw out a sneak peak - Build name is called Stormtroopers Fury - thanks for looking - this is a push pull on both rads - all EK


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Good to know - great info - 5 thats interesting - nice have to play with it when time comes - running the much larger reservoirs than shown in picture
> 
> Wow 22,104 posts thats amazing I thought my 8,000 in flightsim forum was pretty high - congrats


Hehe







, i do like hanging around at ocn. Though lately, its been a bit sluggish but there's always stuff to read and/or post about.

If your D5 is the vario version (red speed dial on the back), you can adjust it to a different setting. I've heard different levels of preferences. #3 is ideal for extremely quiet setups. #4 is the standard speed for the non vario "B" D5 models. I've been very happy with #5 and I don't have complaints, so I plan to run my new pumps at the same speed.


----------



## rsvette12

Noise doesnt bother me - 5 sounds just about right









Yes red dial version - no muss no fuss


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> From this.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this......


What type of paint did you use on the block?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*


Very impressive








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Noise doesnt bother me - 5 sounds just about right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes red dial version - no muss no fuss


Test for noise as D5's can slightly vary and either are noisy or their setup can create noise. I'm going with pump tops with tube reservoirs directly attached to the tops (a'la Koolance). I bought some pump anti-vibration pegs/stand-offs to help with noise. Ek has a nice kit for both D5s and ddc's to help quell vibration. The pump on the right with the alphacool top was attached to an sp120 fan that already has bumpers (using a UN design universal bracket).


----------



## rsvette12

Wermad thats a monster rig you have yowser - big Snef fan as you can tell but man that thing could fly to the moon

Thanks Buddy - much appreciated - will be petg rigid visible and hidden - only flexible on the drain - waiting on a bunch of bitspower 90 degree g1/4 fittings

======================================================================

Cyphon funny you ask - I use Plutonium dries almost instantly - no horrible smell not many places you can actually drive to to pick it up I am lucky I actually have a local hardware store that has it - great stuff

Make sure you sand well especially if just using a scuff pad as I have had few flakes come off - I suggest to seal it with a spray clear they make I am going to pick it up when I do my Maximus Formula VII Armor and use a self etching primer - if works well which it will I will clear the pump bodies after small touch up

I did not use primer on pumps - sand them proper then clear them i think you will be good to go

This paint rocks but its not cheap its about 12 dollars a can but worth it 20 minutes your ready to go dry as it will ever be

http://www.plutoniumpaint.com/


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very impressive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test for noise as D5's can slightly vary and either are noisy or their setup can create noise. I'm going with pump tops with tube reservoirs directly attached to the tops (a'la Koolance). I bought some pump anti-vibration pegs/stand-offs to help with noise. Ek has a nice kit for both D5s and ddc's to help quell vibration. The pump on the right with the alphacool top was attached to an sp120 fan that already has bumpers (using a UN design universal bracket).


Yes I was thinking of that I will have to look into rubber grommets where mounted to help with vibration - still learning - thanks









By the way the 900D was painted at an autobody shop with a baking system would not attempt to spray bomb an entire case - someday build a caselabs sma8


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Yes I was thinking of that I will have to look into rubber grommets where mounted to help with vibration - still learning - thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way the 900D was painted at an autobody shop with a baking system would not attempt to spray bomb an entire case - someday build a caselabs sma8


With all builds, you end up scrambling to buy small bits and pieces that are needed asap. No matter how well one prepares, this tends to happen. These could be little things that crop up on their own in the middle of your build or little things that you may have overlooked/forgot as you tend to get hung up on the bigger or larger-quantity parts. I thought I was done with one larger order but I have a second large and a 3rd small order incoming. Not counting the little one that just came in (the standoffs and some clear BP acrylic plugs w/ led holes).

I got these standoffs from performance-pcs.com and I'll use them either on the top brackets or I plan to make a platform to hold both pumps if the mounting can't be done directly on the case. The standoffs will go on the acrylic for the later setup.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-decoupling-kit-eheim-hydor-4-decouplers.html

Nice on the paint. I suck big time at paint and avoid it as much as possible. But it ain't a bad skill to master but I just can't commit time to it (like taking better pics







).


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And you are very wrong,AIO's are welcome,they are watercooling too.
> 
> We do not discriminate here.


Then my getto AIO folder rig is alright.








I know it a mess, but I sure got my money worth out of this seven plus year old case. But soon to hopefully have a new case to home it in, plus waiting on some more water cool goodies to show up to smack onto it.




Can't remember if I posted my main rig in here. May do that after I get the new PSU cables done up for it.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Thanks I have them both hooked up but doesn't seem to want to let me lower the speed. I will figure it out. Almost done with my build! I call it RESURRXTION thought that fit well since its my old haf x case.


----------



## Cyclops

Looks like the professionals exclusively bend their tubes instead of using angled fittings.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> Looks like the professionals exclusively bend their tubes instead of using angled fittings.


A lot of them also seem to like those crappy plastic visual flowmeters as well.....









Some clever artistic skills on display... A few of the rigs are a tad 'out there' but whatever looks cool to the owner is ok by me..


----------



## Nichismo

ummm ***?

not sure what you are insinuating with the "tone" of your post, but implying that any professional builder would rationalize any single method of utilizing acrylic tube as the sole and only method at their disposal, most likely isn't a professional at all......

and secondly, even if that was disregarded entirely, how the video of whomever built the illustrated system(s) somehow speaks for all quote unquote "professionals" is very bizarre in my opinion....

As for myself, ive only built with angled fittings and by far prefer the overall aesthetic tone they provide, and also due to their ability to concieve more precise vertical and horizontal routes. Most telling in my opinion however, is just the overall sensation a well put together plumbing system with proper fittings can invoke....Like a sense that the machine is a serious piece of engineering, something that I personally believe bent tubing (especially with certain coolants) cannot do.

But since 16mm tubing has become more available, I have been eager to build a system with bent tubing, as I have also grown pretty fond of the accessible tools and features that the watercooling companies have released in conjunction.


----------



## Nichismo

.... oh and these systems were all build by the same guy, whom literally did every bit of work from beginning to end for each.









and even aside the ridiculousness of the notion, im almost positive that if you gave him an ultimatum to choose between fittings at the angles vs bending the tubing, hed pick the fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> Looks like the professionals exclusively bend their tubes instead of using angled fittings.


Erm.....

No.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Erm.....
> 
> No.


+1 Not sure what he is getting at, angled fittings look good in most cases, I prefer tubing bends to fittings but it doesn't take away from the fact it looks good either way. To say one way or the other is professional or not is a bit... well... ignorant.


----------



## Jakusonfire

A mix of the two styles always looks best to me. I think that is what the majority of people actually do.

More importantly ... as Costa mentioned ... What is the fascination with those crappy spinny paddle things.


----------



## Nichismo

A few more photos I snapped of my current machine, proudly displaying the illustrious myriad of Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings, of course to cleanly navigate the plumbing system
















im quite the Bitspower Cystal link aficionado.....


----------



## Benjiw

Not my cup of tea personally, I feel like most of the bends could of been made by hand with the tube and it would look much nicer overall, but that's just my opinion so please don't be offended. Still a nice set up regardless!


----------



## emsj86

It's two different styles. I like both fittings and bends. Comes down to the tubing layout imo where fittings may looks better or bends may look better. Oh that note I really want to get a second res and pump in my sm8. Hard to justify the cost with my second kid coming at the latest this Friday. But maybe Santa will have something for me who knows


----------



## TheCautiousOne

What if you bend some tubing, and use fittings on other tubing runs in one Build?



TCO


----------



## mus1mus

What about bending a tube and putting a dual rotary angled fitting on bend's end to have a good bend on a bend?

That would be epic!...........FAIL!


----------



## Dortheleus

Gang I need your help. I need to buy an AIO for a workstation E5-1600 3.5GHz 6 core 140W.

Here are my choises: (they will all fit in the case)

NZXT RL-KRX61-01 KRAKEN X61 280mm ±170$ can

Thermaltake CL-W007-PL12BL-A Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm ±170$ can

COOLER MASTER RL-N28L-20PK-R2 Nepton 280L 280mm ±125$mm

DEEPCOOL CAPTAIN 360mm ±135$ can

Thanks gang,


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A few more photos I snapped of my current machine, proudly displaying the illustrious myriad of Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings, of course to cleanly navigate the plumbing system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im quite the Bitspower Cystal link aficionado...../quote][
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful build, going with black and green for my refresh as well. Unfortunately no hardline tubing for me yet, putting that extra dough towards the upcoming asus ultrawide & I just splurged on a phanteks enthoo evolv atx chassis. New year for sure tho.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Gang I need your help. I need to buy an AIO for a workstation E5-1600 3.5GHz 6 core 140W.
> 
> Here are my choises: (they will all fit in the case)
> 
> NZXT RL-KRX61-01 KRAKEN X61 280mm ±170$ can
> 
> Thermaltake CL-W007-PL12BL-A Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm ±170$ can
> 
> COOLER MASTER RL-N28L-20PK-R2 Nepton 280L 280mm ±125$mm
> 
> DEEPCOOL CAPTAIN 360mm ±135$ can
> 
> Thanks gang,
> 
> 
> 
> Kraken gets my vote
Click to expand...


----------



## jodybdesigns

I have been running the loop in my sig (Fantomex) for about 10 months straight and I am starting to get pink discoloration showing through my white tubes. I can't get it to display in a picture though. Any ideas why? I am running straight distilled with a kill coil.

*edit* Screw it, I am just going to tear my machine apart this weekend. I was going to wait until I got some 45 degree fittings but this is making me nervous. My water is crystal clear too


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not my cup of tea personally, I feel like most of the bends could of been made by hand with the tube and it would look much nicer overall, but that's just my opinion so please don't be offended. Still a nice set up regardless!


yes but if you read my previous post, I attempted to be as intuitive, insightful, and communicable about why I am so passionate about my perspective on the topic, and why this type of config appeals to me.

as you listed, reasonning such as the bends "could have been made by hand with the tube" simply doesnt seem like a better reason to me than my own reasoning on why I prefer my config how it is. So sure, you can say not to be offended, but it sure seems like you dont have much substance towards something that im rather passionate about....

Jus saying.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What if you bend some tubing, and use fittings on other tubing runs in one Build?
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


lol I enjoy your ability to be casual on the subject, but in all honesty, doing this would be for sake of..... just doing it, or because you ran out of a specific fitting, or ran out of space or money, etc. Again, it for me personally just goes back to the substance, and individully developing a set philosophy and setting a certain standard for your own craftsmanship and engineering. Cultivating your own skills as a result and also helping others cultivate from your drive as well.

I know im probably starting to sound a culture shoddy but bear with me guys..... lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A mix of the two styles always looks best to me. I think that is what the majority of people actually do.
> 
> More importantly ... as Costa mentioned ... What is the fascination with those crappy spinny paddle things.


It boosts horsepower, of course...yo, like vtec....yo....cus that just kicked in....yo. Time for nossssss.....

I has one....just for the heck of it. And curious what my flow will seem like after my many, many, many angle fittings. $12 vs $70 for a koolance flow meter and readout (I had one of these as well), seems cheap for a basic flow indication...I guess


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> yes but if you read my previous post, I attempted to be as intuitive, insightful, and communicable about why I am so passionate about my perspective on the topic, and why this type of config appeals to me.
> 
> as you listed, reasonning such as the bends "could have been made by hand with the tube" simply doesnt seem like a better reason to me than my own reasoning on why I prefer my config how it is. So sure, you can say not to be offended, but it sure seems like you dont have much substance towards something that im rather passionate about....
> 
> Jus saying.


Ah sorry, seems I got your knickers all bunched up there. Sorry for the insult based on an unimportant opinion. It's your build, your rules, I could care less but I wanted to add to the conversation is all. If I really wanted to upset you, I would of but that wasn't the reason for my post...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It boosts horsepower, of course...yo, like vtec....yo....cus that just kicked in....yo. Time for nossssss.....
> 
> I has one....just for the heck of it. And curious what my flow will seem like after my many, many, many angle fittings. $12 vs $70 for a koolance flow meter and readout (I had one of these as well), seems cheap for a basic flow indication...I guess


I've never used one, but can you really see a difference in the speed its spinning? Like no doubt you can at min vs max flow, but more precisely than just looking at how turbulent the res is?

I assumed once it was spinning fast enough to be blur speed that was it. Maybe I'm overestimating how fast they really spin.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> lol I enjoy your ability to be casual on the subject, but in all honesty, doing this would be for sake of..... just doing it, or because you ran out of a specific fitting, or ran out of space or money, etc. Again, it for me personally just goes back to the substance, and individully developing a set philosophy and setting a certain standard for your own craftsmanship and engineering. Cultivating your own skills as a result and also helping others cultivate from your drive as well.
> 
> I know im probably starting to sound a culture shoddy but bear with me guys..... lol


Just for clarification, The statement was not directed at your build. Just a broad statement in general for the thread









TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I've never used one, but can you really see a difference in the speed its spinning? Like no doubt you can at min vs max flow, but more precisely than just looking at how turbulent the res is?
> 
> I assumed once it was spinning fast enough to be blur speed that was it. Maybe I'm overestimating how fast they really spin.


Once you top of the reservoirs and/or if you have adapters/fittings to control the incoming flow on the res, its hard to gauge. I know its completely unnecessary but its still somewhat useful. It may just serve its purpose once or maybe a few times but its not terribly expensive imho and it adds more visual cache, which these days, its all about the looks tbh.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Once you top of the reservoirs and/or if you have adapters/fittings to control the incoming flow on the res, its hard to gauge. I know its completely unnecessary but its still somewhat useful. It may just serve its purpose once or maybe a few times but its not terribly expensive imho and it adds more visual cache, which these days, its all about the looks tbh.


Thought someone had said somewhere in a thread that they were prone to break and or leak. If the spinner were to break it would block the flow. That was one of the reasons I chose the aquaflow mps 400 over the primochill, due to how the primochill and bitspower flow meters were made.

TCO


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thought someone had said somewhere in a thread that they were prone to break and or leak. If the spinner were to break it would block the flow. That was one of the reasons I chose the aquaflow mps 400 over the primochill, due to how the primochill and bitspower flow meters were made.
> 
> TCO


I had a koolance spinner stop spinning once, but it didn't stop the flow enough to cause noticeable rise in temps. Though, it was completely useless restriction in the loop at that point


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> A few more photos I snapped of my current machine, proudly displaying the illustrious myriad of Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings, of course to cleanly navigate the plumbing system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im quite the Bitspower Cystal link aficionado.....


I think it looks awesome. Great job! I am a fan of the fittings myself. I used fittings for all my turns because I love the way it looks. Don't let others opinions bother you when you did a great job all that matters is if you like it. I post pics of my build cause I am proud of it and I love the way it looks. I don't get any comments on mine but that doesn't make me any less proud of it. I still want to show it off.


----------



## wermad

My first koolance sensor did not put out any signal to the display. Koolance rma replaced with a new unit. It uses a propeller and sensor to gauge flow.

I bought a Barrow one and it will go at the end of my loop. I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on it....







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Hi I have a couple of these non PWM - where do I connect the small cable I would assume I dont do anything with it correct ? thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats your RPM sensor. You can hook it up to a mobo fan header and see your pump speed if you want. I run my D5 at 3300RPM. If I change it to purge air or anything, I can easily set it back to where it was.
Click to expand...

It serves a MUCH better use than mere RPM sensing.
Connect to the CPU fan header,set the machine to power off if CPU fan reads zero RPM...et voila,if the pump stops,your rig stops.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> From this.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What type of paint did you use on the block?
Click to expand...

Etch primer with a dark matt grey top coat,brand matters not for spray cans other than in respect to nozzle quality.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A mix of the two styles always looks best to me. I think that is what the majority of people actually do.
> 
> More importantly ... as Costa mentioned ... *What is the fascination with those crappy spinny paddle things. :*p


Whats the fascination with flow meters in general?

Pure bent tube rigs look....wrong to me,got to have the mix in my eyes anyway.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just for clarification, The statement was not directed at your build. Just a broad statement in general for the thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO










Oh I know, I just love voicing my opinion when the topic is very relative to my interests








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What if you bend some tubing, and use fittings on other tubing runs in one Build?
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah sorry, seems I got your knickers all bunched up there. Sorry for the insult based on an unimportant opinion. It's your build, your rules, I could care less but I wanted to add to the conversation is all. If I really wanted to upset you, I would of but that wasn't the reason for my post...


Well I wrote "jus sayin" at the end of my post for a reason. Usually lads who are overall very contented such as yourself usually take passion or indignation the same way they perceive anger and defensiveness. It stopped bothering me a long time ago, but in that regard, ive thankfully still been able to grow my passions and fervor without negative influence from the outside.

Your comment was convenient as it just so happened to come right after I posted my pictures, so I was able to use it to convey my point much easier and better. Thanks

P.S. its certainly easy to make your intentions online pretty much anywhere, easily acknowledged. Believing that you can dictate peoples behavior at will from your computer is a different story.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> I think it looks awesome. Great job! I am a fan of the fittings myself. I used fittings for all my turns because I love the way it looks. Don't let others opinions bother you when you did a great job all that matters is if you like it. I post pics of my build cause I am proud of it and I love the way it looks. I don't get any comments on mine but that doesn't make me any less proud of it. I still want to show it off.


Absolutely, I feel the same way, Thank you

I get really excited whenever I get a PM with questions about my build or past builds in my photos, and I just generally enjoy any good discussion on computers and plumbing/watercooling dynamics. It really never gets old


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It serves a MUCH better use than mere RPM sensing.
> Connect to the CPU fan header,set the machine to power off if CPU fan reads zero RPM...et voila,if the pump stops,your rig stops.
> *Etch primer with a dark matt grey top coat,brand matters not for spray cans other than in respect to nozzle quality.*
> Whats the fascination with flow meters in general?
> 
> Pure bent tube rigs look....wrong to me,got to have the mix in my eyes anyway.


thanks


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Once you top of the reservoirs and/or if you have adapters/fittings to control the incoming flow on the res, its hard to gauge. I know its completely unnecessary but its still somewhat useful. It may just serve its purpose once or maybe a few times but its not terribly expensive imho and it adds more visual cache, which these days, its all about the looks tbh.


Yes, it's like this thing I found. Even though I'm using flow meters hooked up to my Aquaero, I thought this might add some visual appeal.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I know, I just love voicing my opinion when the topic is very relative to my interests
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I wrote "jus sayin" at the end of my post for a reason. Usually lads who are overall very contented such as yourself usually take passion or indignation the same way they perceive anger and defensiveness. It stopped bothering me a long time ago, but in that regard, ive thankfully still been able to grow my passions and fervor without negative influence from the outside.
> 
> Your comment was convenient as it just so happened to come right after I posted my pictures, so I was able to use it to convey my point much easier and better. Thanks
> 
> P.S. its certainly easy to make your intentions online pretty much anywhere, easily acknowledged. Believing that you can dictate peoples behavior at will from your computer is a different story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely, I feel the same way, Thank you
> 
> I get really excited whenever I get a PM with questions about my build or past builds in my photos, and I just generally enjoy any good discussion on computers and plumbing/watercooling dynamics. It really never gets old


I don't wish to dictate your behavior and I replied to you as it was part of the discussion at the time. That's how a conversation works last time I checked, although I could be wrong, times are changing and what not. I'm very far from lads age darling but thanks for the complement you little minx!


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> A few more photos I snapped of my current machine, proudly displaying the illustrious myriad of Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings, of course to cleanly navigate the plumbing system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im quite the Bitspower Cystal link aficionado.....


I think this is awesome














I personally much prefer fittings over bends. And for the record, I think it's a pointless discussion - it's personal preference.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> I think this is awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally much prefer fittings over bends. And for the record, I think it's a pointless discussion - it's personal preference.


Fair point but it was being dicussed at the time, we could talk about this image instead if you like?



I think it fits the overall topic very well.


----------



## rsvette12

Niche super looking build


----------



## rodaduck

I think the fittings for the turns looks better then not having them that's the way im doing mine I am using brass hard line and was going to bend then then I decided not to and instead bought a die so I could tab and thread every tube into the fitting si I would not have to use compression fitting ..you build looks good , and another thing anyone go buy a case buy the parts and "build" if that's what it really is the exact same style as every one else in building , I say do it different make it different build it different ..I completely modified a air 540 like hasn't been seen before is good? is it bad? who knows I lkike and its been much fun as it has been a pain in the ass to build , but its different ..don't follow the sheep lead the herd


----------



## rodaduck

why because I can !1 I did get lucky and alpha cool sells both a straight and a 90 I used the 90 on the cpu mainly because I wanted less chance of a leak on 2 titan blacks but if there was no 90 it would of been done like the rest of the fitting ..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

At this point I will ask..what are you using to seal the threads on the tube?


----------



## emsj86

Off topic but newest edition to the family. Got skittle computer for my son as part of the present from the baby 9lbd 4oz baby girl 215am eat


----------



## rodaduck

more then likely pipe tape and as little as possible , I also have pipe dope but think the pipe tape will work fine , the threads are pretty tight and each thread had to stop at a certain place so the right fitting was pointing in the right direction and be tight as possible , I made a gage with rubber line and a fitting every connection will be air tested before any water is put in it


----------



## cyphon

Random question, do you guys think it's tacky to mix block manufacturers in the same system? Historically I've felt and always done the same brand for all blocks.

I am considering doing a Heatkiller CPU block and EK gpu blocks. Can't decode if it'd be awesome or just look off.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Random question, do you guys think it's tacky to mix block manufacturers in the same system? Historically I've felt and always done the same brand for all blocks.
> 
> I am considering doing a Heatkiller CPU block and EK gpu blocks. Can't decode if it'd be awesome or just look off.


Not really, depends, are you going for function or fashion? It's a bit of a personal choice at the end of the day, All my blocks are nickel, two are EK, one is Heatkiller NSB and one is a Koolance VRM block. Tried to do the best for function rather than looks.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Random question, do you guys think it's tacky to mix block manufacturers in the same system? Historically I've felt and always done the same brand for all blocks.
> 
> I am considering doing a Heatkiller CPU block and EK gpu blocks. Can't decode if it'd be awesome or just look off.


Not tacky at all, it's about getting what you like and works the best. I wouldnt mix gpu blocks but a different cpu block and gpu block is perfectly acceptable. Not all manufacturers make blocks for all gpu's either, so sometimes you have to get what you can. EK is probably my favorite brand but I think the bitspower gpu blocks look much better to me. Now that new HK block is badass and so is the new Raystorm Pro, it's nice to have some good competition now so it's not EVO in every rig.


----------



## Ithanul

Heck, I rock a Raystorm on the CPU and EK full blocks on my Titans. Of course I had to paint the Raystorm to spiff it up a bit.

The folder going to be wacky once the Define S case shows up and I get water blocks for CPU and 980 STRIX. That poor 960 with the H55 smack on it going to look like the black sheep in there.







But darn, at least I don't have to hear those stock air fans anymore and it is happy at 35C now instead of the 61C it was at while folding.

Of course part of my water cool goodies showed up. Get pictures of them this weekend.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Random question, do you guys think it's tacky to mix block manufacturers in the same system? Historically I've felt and always done the same brand for all blocks.
> 
> I am considering doing a Heatkiller CPU block and EK gpu blocks. Can't decode if it'd be awesome or just look off.


Cant see why not? If it looks good to you nothing else should matter


----------



## Gabrielzm

@cyphon Like this? "Old copper" is sitting on a cabinet waiting for me to get back to it and finish it...It is sad but no time until probably March 2016. Personally I am becoming more and more a fan of heatkiller blocks. It looks just awesome.

@emsj86 congrats man. What a Christmas gift huh?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> @cyphon Like this? "Old copper" is sitting on a cabinet waiting for me to get back to it and finish it...It is sad but no time until probably March 2016.
> 
> @emsj86 congrats man. What a Christmas gift huh?


More or less lol. Would be the acetal ek blocks, not the clear. Looks pretty good together in your pic.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @cyphon Like this? "Old copper" is sitting on a cabinet waiting for me to get back to it and finish it...It is sad but no time until probably March 2016. Personally I am becoming more and more a fan of heatkiller blocks. It looks just awesome.
> 
> @emsj86 congrats man. What a Christmas gift huh?


Like how the tubes are routed from CPU and GPU. Nice industrial look to it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Like how the tubes are routed from CPU and GPU. Nice industrial look to it.










thks. Then you would like this one:


----------



## Dave6531

Out of excitement for the new movie did a custom gtx 970 strix backplate and fan grill. Still doing finishing touches on both but stoked for the movie. Finishing touches on my photo light box as well.


----------



## cyphon

A sneak peak of things to come. The new case delivered today.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> A sneak peak of things to come. The new case delivered today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Shots of a few badges is not doing it for me tho......


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of a few badges is not doing it for me tho......


Unfortunately, everything else I've ordered doesn't come until tomorrow or early next week, so this is all I've got going right now. The next batch of pics will have a lot more going on


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Out of excitement for the new movie did a custom gtx 970 strix backplate and fan grill. Still doing finishing touches on both but stoked for the movie. Finishing touches on my photo light box as well.


Very slick! I like your style there.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Off topic but newest edition to the family. Got skittle computer for my son as part of the present from the baby 9lbd 4oz baby girl.


Congrats! She is gorgeous


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Off topic but newest edition to the family. Got skittle computer for my son as part of the present from the baby 9lbd 4oz baby girl 215am eat


Congrats!









~Ceadder


----------



## rsvette12

Congrats on little one


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Off topic but newest edition to the family. Got skittle computer for my son as part of the present from the baby 9lbd 4oz baby girl 215am eat


Congrats!


----------



## rikkiepc

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> A sneak peak of things to come. The new case delivered today.


That is an awesome case, looking forward to your build!


----------



## taowulf

It has been too long since I did any loop maintenance. Looks like my Saturday has a plan now.

Just wish I could dump this cloudy tubing for good.


----------



## Archea47

Emsj86 and Gabriel - great builds as always









Thanks for sharing and congratulations Emsj! Just don't go letting the baby formula cut into the overclock budget


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Off topic but newest edition to the family. Got skittle computer for my son as part of the present from the baby 9lbd 4oz baby girl 215am eat


Congrats!!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Off topic but newest edition to the family. Got skittle computer for my son as part of the present from the baby 9lbd 4oz baby girl 215am eat
> 
> 
> Spoiler: BABY!


Congrats! My first will be arriving in February


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Out of excitement for the new movie did a custom gtx 970 strix backplate and fan grill. Still doing finishing touches on both but stoked for the movie. Finishing touches on my photo light box as well.


That's sick, stay excited movie is epic!


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *num1son*
> 
> That's sick, stay excited movie is epic!


Thanks still thinking of adding more to it. But just trying to build up portfolio of acrylic services that i can do and offer.

Lookong forward to movie but wont see it till next month.


----------



## Questors

Catching up...

Congrats on the baby overclocker!







I recently found out I am going to be a grandfather in 7 months. I am too young for that!!














I suppose the silver lining is hyping the little critter up on sugar, get 'em covered in chocolate from head to toe and hand them back to Dad & Mom!









I like crappy little spinny things.









Prefer bends to fittings, but do whatever works best.









Some minor work on the dual pedestal rad box accomplished; nothing super special, making slow progress. Ran into some small problems, my disabilities make some small things more mountainous than should be, but I think I have them beat. The tubes running up and down are within less than .5mm from top to bottom. An angle was put on the tubing at one end so it would properly sit flush on the shoulders inside the fitting. There are two SR2-360-MPs and the two EK XTX 480s installed into the pedestals. I prefer push/pull fans, but the single-sided width of the ST10 is smallish for that. It can be done, but with all the radiator surface, it really isn't a big deal. The drain will eventually run all the way to the middle and out through a pre-cut hold in the bottom.








All in all, I am less than impressed with my overall radiator experience with EK. The XEs were basically factory seconds sold as first quality units. I was lucky to score these XTXs local. They are still new and the price was better than great. When sitting down to work with them, the things that are not quite right started to stand out. Both the 480s had non-square ports causing unnecessary annoying extra work. I still may have to change over to flexible tubing if my "fixes" don't hold up during leak testing. This means more fittings and unused fittings that should have been fine to use - if changing becomes necessary. There are crushed fins under the edges of the shroud/rad housing. It is a factory thing as they are also not painted. The paint line follows the housing edge. All sides under the housing have crushed fins. I straightened as many as I could reach safely with an angled pick tool. Next time, I will probably go with HWLabs & back to using XSPC too.


----------



## emsj86

Thanks guys. Haven't got much sleep but just got some new black fittings in. I'm thinking of vinyl wrapping my false floor and changing the fluid up. This is what I m working with and I'm thinking a transparent fluid will look nice. Maybe not better but different.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Catching up...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the baby overclocker!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently found out I am going to be a grandfather in 7 months. I am too young for that!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the silver lining is hyping the little critter up on sugar, get 'em covered in chocolate from head to toe and hand them back to Dad & Mom!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like crappy little spinny things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prefer bends to fittings, but do whatever works best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some minor work on the dual pedestal rad box accomplished; nothing super special, making slow progress. Ran into some small problems, my disabilities make some small things more mountainous than should be, but I think I have them beat. The tubes running up and down are within less than .5mm from top to bottom. An angle was put on the tubing at one end so it would properly sit flush on the shoulders inside the fitting. There are two SR2-360-MPs and the two EK XTX 480s installed into the pedestals. I prefer push/pull fans, but the single-sided width of the ST10 is smallish for that. It can be done, but with all the radiator surface, it really isn't a big deal. The drain will eventually run all the way to the middle and out through a pre-cut hold in the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all, I am less than impressed with my overall radiator experience with EK. The XEs were basically factory seconds sold as first quality units. I was lucky to score these XTXs local. They are still new and the price was better than great. When sitting down to work with them, the things that are not quite right started to stand out. Both the 480s had non-square ports causing unnecessary annoying extra work. I still may have to change over to flexible tubing if my "fixes" don't hold up during leak testing. This means more fittings and unused fittings that should have been fine to use - if changing becomes necessary. There are crushed fins under the edges of the shroud/rad housing. It is a factory thing as they are also not painted. The paint line follows the housing edge. All sides under the housing have crushed fins. I straightened as many as I could reach safely with an angled pick tool. Next time, I will probably go with HWLabs & back to using XSPC too.


How do you rate your SR2 multiport rads? I'm tempted to buy a 420mm version for my AMD system and swap out my 360mm radiator with the 420 then put the 360 on the front of my case swapping out my 240. They say they're geared towards lower rpm fans which is what I want to start moving towards.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How do you rate your SR2 multiport rads? I'm tempted to buy a 420mm version for my AMD system and swap out my 360mm radiator with the 420 then put the 360 on the front of my case swapping out my 240. They say they're geared towards lower rpm fans which is what I want to start moving towards.


Still in the building stage, I have not had this up and running yet.

As for out of the box impression, these are some seriously beefy radiators. I knew the finish was not the dark matter finish, but wish it had been better. If these radiators were going to be on display though a window, I would have painted them. The multiple ports are great and they are properly square/level. The ports at the end of the tank would have been perfect had I placed a rad at the top and front of my ST10 rather than in the pedestals. If you buy a SR2-MP, make sure you also buy some plugs. The included plastic plugs not only strip out super easy, but leaked during a simple shake and drain cleaning. To be honest, I don't believe they are intended to serve as operational items anyway. I used plugs from EK as I had a bunch strewn about, but did buy a few more - at $1.95 each, they are good inexpensive solution.

Extreme Rigs SR2 MP 420 Review
Extreme Rigs SR2 MP 360 Review


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Still in the building stage, I have not had this up and running yet.
> 
> As for out of the box impression, these are some seriously beefy radiators. I knew the finish was not the dark matter finish, but wish it had been better. If these radiators were going to be on display though a window, I would have painted them. The multiple ports are great and they are properly square/level. The ports at the end of the tank would have been perfect had I placed a rad at the top and front of my ST10 rather than in the pedestals. If you buy a SR2-MP, make sure you also buy some plugs. The included plastic plugs not only strip out super easy, but leaked during a simple shake and drain cleaning. To be honest, I don't believe they are intended to serve as operational items anyway. I used plugs from EK as I had a bunch strewn about, but did buy a few more - at $1.95 each, they are good inexpensive solution.
> 
> Extreme Rigs SR2 MP 420 Review
> Extreme Rigs SR2 MP 360 Review


Ahh they don't include proper plugs? that's quite disappointing considering the rad I'm looking at is £110 or so considering I'll need £2-4 x6 plugs for the one rad too. Might wait for them to drop heavily in price from stock not moving.


----------



## fast_fate

I really had no issues with leaks from the plugs HWL supply with the SR2 MP and I've been using them on everything recently for temporarily plugging ports to complete thermal test with coolant temps reaching mid to high 40's. (°C)
The hex key rounds off during the first use, but you can get tight enough doing up by hand.
If you're worried nip a tad more with needle nose pliers.

Stand alone Revo D5 Top received and ready for performance testing


----------



## DarthBaggins

I do like the looks of that design for the D5, looks more compact. Now if the main housing was smooth like the top that would be nice


----------



## Dango

Two more been to go. Almost there.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Looking nice Dango









10% off ALL ORDERS, use: XMAS15-10 on PPC folks. 10% not bad.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Looking nice Dango
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10% off ALL ORDERS, use: XMAS15-10 on PPC folks. 10% not bad.


Thanks for the heads up! That's enough to make me feel at least 10% less guilty on my purchase. I held off on the Thanksgiving promo because I didn't see it as much better than the OCN discount. But 10% is pretty good!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Welcome mate. On other news I got some time to work again on "Old Copper". I don't want to mount the pump on the wall due to noise and reverberation and was not happy with the tubes routed this way with pump oriented sideways:



So I decided to make a decoupling for the pump to sit horizontally on the floor of the case using a Shoggy Sandwich cut in circle to fit the round pump on it as well as a rectangular cut for the wires and head on the D5 USB. Turns out great, for me at least:


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Looking nice Dango
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10% off ALL ORDERS, use: XMAS15-10 on PPC folks. 10% not bad.


Sweet, been waiting on that. Need to nab me some angle rotaries, thermal pads, and some water blocks for the folder. Just got my hands on a 970, so it and the 980 need to go under water now.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Looking nice Dango
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10% off ALL ORDERS, use: XMAS15-10 on PPC folks. 10% not bad.


DANGER DANGER - Parts order imminent!


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Stand alone Revo D5 Top received and ready for performance testing


Was wondering are inlet and outlet ports in a 45 degree angle or is it smaller?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Stand alone Revo D5 Top received and ready for performance testing


https://imageshack.com/i/p5nUKV5Sj

Been using mine since release and i think it's great although i did kind of prefer the looks of my DDC with Bitspower heatsink.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Two more been to go. Almost there.


If you don't mind me asking, what memory is that ?


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> If you don't mind me asking, what memory is that ?


Looks like GEIL Super Luce ddr4

Edit: Geil Super Luce


----------



## IT Diva

Getting a little closer to having a new daily driver up and running . . . .









Case mods to the S8 are all done and waiting on a Moddiy cable bits order, . . . check

New Z170 mobo all set up with 6700K and the new 950 Pro NVMe SSD, . . . . check

Latest Win 10 installed, . . . . check

EK Evo all polished and ready to install, . . . . check

New tech bench with watercooling setup assembled and running, . . . . check

Damn, it might as well be Christmas already.







Darlene


----------



## Nornam

That's one hell-uv-a light set up you've done there Darlene..... BLOODY!!!.... Gorgeous in fact







......

Nam......


----------



## Cyb3r

just curious why have the mobo mounted on the outside? but very nice mod tbh :d


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyb3r*
> 
> just curious why have the mobo mounted on the outside? but very nice mod tbh :d


Its a test bench, which by design are almost completely open. This allows swapping and testing hardware much quicker then a traditional atx pc setup. Hardware reviewers use them primarily for the reason of the dynamic setups they encounter frequently.

Also, some ppl do like their hardware in the open


----------



## sub0seals

Do you play ghost recon phantoms? When you moving to Alaska? What part? I moved here to NM/colorado 4 years ago after being in Alaska for 12 years. i miss it


----------



## Cyb3r

@ wermad i thought so but wasn't sure which is why i asked pretty cool design for a testbench tbh


----------



## Archea47

Is there such a thing as a good rad fan that comes with white blades and a black body?

I disassembled & painted 15 FF5 Vardars for Daedalic (and some Bgears 140s in the past that are now part of The Girl's Box). I've gotten pretty tired of that process


----------



## DarthBaggins

e-loops: http://www.performance-pcs.com/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-120mm-x-25mm-ultra-silent-bionic-blade-pwm-fan-800-2000-rpm.html#Specifications


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Is there such a thing as a good rad fan that comes with white blades and a black body?
> 
> I disassembled & painted 15 FF5 Vardars for Daedalic (and some Bgears 140s in the past that are now part of The Girl's Box). I've gotten pretty tired of that process


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> e-loops: http://www.performance-pcs.com/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-120mm-x-25mm-ultra-silent-bionic-blade-pwm-fan-800-2000-rpm.html#Specifications


Yep, the e-loops are solid







. The swiftech helix aren't bad as another option


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> e-loops: http://www.performance-pcs.com/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-120mm-x-25mm-ultra-silent-bionic-blade-pwm-fan-800-2000-rpm.html#Specifications


Thanks, that's pretty close! 2400rpm model could work. Strangely enough 3 pin would make things easier in this case

Some concerns: what's going on with the shape? Will these mount on a radiator? Normally I use gaskets and shove the fans together to try and get all the air into the rads instead of losing pressure around the fans - these look to subvert that effort. Maybe I could use some of the 120x120 square rubber gaskets from my Coolgate rads in Daedalic


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Some concerns: what's going on with the shape? Will these mount on a radiator? Normally I use gaskets and shove the fans together to try and get all the air into the rads instead of losing pressure around the fans - these look to subvert that effort. Maybe I could use some of the 120x120 square rubber gaskets from my Coolgate rads in Daedalic


They work fine on rads. You can also use a gasket if you want without issue.

Just be aware that the e-loops are not all that suitable if you want to use them in a 'pull' config as they generate some turbulence related air flow noise when used this way. In push though they are excellent (I use them myself).

Phanteks also make a nice radiator fan which also uses a similar black/white colour scheme. Take a look at their PH-F120MP fans or their equivalent 140 sized model. Note however that they max out to 1600 rpm.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> They work fine on rads. You can also use a gasket if you want without issue.
> 
> Just be aware that the e-loops are not all that suitable if you want to use them in a 'pull' config as they generate some turbulence related air flow noise when used this way. In push though they are excellent (I use them myself).
> 
> Phanteks also make a nice radiator fan which also uses a similar black/white colour scheme. Take a look at their PH-F120MP fans or their equivalent 140 sized model. Note however that they max out to 1600 rpm.


Thanks Costas!

In the end I decided I'll just use some old Scythe 3K RPM GTs, but I did pick up a 2400rpm ELoop to blow on the back of the socket of Daeadlic and get a look at them in person


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Just finished my latest build...Spartan Rage 2.0. Let me know what you guys think... My first official CaseLabs build, using a Mercury S5. Thanks @machikariyo for the case and @Caselabs and EK for the excellent products and services you guys provide.







Anyway heres a few more pics of the finished product. I think I'll submit this to Caselabs for consideration on their customer build gallery.

Let me know what you guys think...Always open to suggestions! Keep in mind that this my first sleeving job, so it's not perfect.











Official Build Log is in my signature, and http://www.overclock.net/t/1582156/build-log-spartan-rage-2-0


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> They work fine on rads. You can also use a gasket if you want without issue.
> 
> Just be aware that the e-loops are not all that suitable if you want to use them in a 'pull' config as they generate some turbulence related air flow noise when used this way. In push though they are excellent (I use them myself).
> 
> Phanteks also make a nice radiator fan which also uses a similar black/white colour scheme. Take a look at their PH-F120MP fans or their equivalent 140 sized model. Note however that they max out to 1600 rpm.


Huh, never noticed that with the three I have in pull in my main rig. Then again, I do not smack them tight to the radiator. Still need to put the other three into push to see how a push/pull config works out.


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## Gabrielzm

Old Copper is filled and running







Not finished by far, but functional, very good performance and the most silent build I had so far. Really glad with this one.







Next steps:

paint psu cover in old copper style. Replace cables with custom made ones (Probably black with copper colors). Paint memory (maybe). Replace the remaining tubes with the Old Copper version.. Adjust the coolant color to a greenish/blueish copper disposal visual...Paint that drain valve in old copper style. Finish the rgb leds and enhance the illumination of cpu block and vga block.

edit - don't mind the foot and the filling tygon tube on the reservoir...


----------



## concept73

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Old Copper is filled and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not finished by far, but functional, very good performance and the most silent build I had so far. Really glad with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next steps:
> 
> paint psu cover in old copper style. Replace cables with custom made ones (Probably black with copper colors). Paint memory (maybe). Replace the remaining tubes with the Old Copper version.. Adjust the coolant color to a greenish/blueish copper disposal visual...Paint that drain valve in old copper style. Finish the rgb leds and enhance the illumination of cpu block and vga block.
> 
> edit - don't mind the foot and the filling tygon tube on the reservoir...






Looks great Gabrielzm, nice clean loop!

I ordered my x2m last night so helping me to get a better idea of how i plan on doing my build as there does not seem to be many about!


----------



## cyphon

Finally got some components in:








*New build log started*


----------



## Kimir

Yum, black and gold, me likey.


----------



## wermad

Not much of an update since I'm missing one more big order (more fittings, tops, little bits, etc.):



The reservoirs look good and I'm hoping everything goes well (as been most of this experience with Barrow so far). Wish they had more ports and they offered something a bit longer then 210mm, but this attaches directly to the D5 Barrow tops. Had to wait an extra week for this last order as the tops were oos. Crossing fingers Dhl delivers before the holiday.


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question about dual bay reservoirs with and without integrated pump mounts. I'm not planning on installing one in the drive bays and just wanted to know if they are inherently noisy or have bad flow characteristics?


----------



## wermad

I had a monsoon stand-alone dual bay res and as long as you keep your water level topped, it shouldn't have any noise.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question about dual bay reservoirs with and without integrated pump mounts. I'm not planning on installing one in the drive bays and just wanted to know if they are inherently noisy or have bad flow characteristics?


Regarding noise, I'm pretty sure it depends on the design of the optical bay, in term of whether it's easily vibrate or not. I have no problem with noise with dual bay reservoir.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question about dual bay reservoirs with and without integrated pump mounts. I'm not planning on installing one in the drive bays and just wanted to know if they are inherently noisy or have bad flow characteristics?


I used the xspc dual ddc one before and didn't have any noise issues


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had a monsoon stand-alone dual bay res and as long as you keep your water level topped, it shouldn't have any noise.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Regarding noise, I'm pretty sure it depends on the design of the optical bay, in term of whether it's easily vibrate or not. I have no problem with noise with dual bay reservoir.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I used the xspc dual ddc one before and didn't have any noise issues


Thanks for the responses.

I'm thinking of getting one but not mounting it in the drive bays and keep it decoupled. It's either that or custom making my own rectangular reservoir.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Old Copper is filled and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not finished by far, but functional, very good performance and the most silent build I had so far. Really glad with this one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmm, got that engine feel to it. You aiming to have fluid look like motor oil or is that actual motor oil?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, got that engine feel to it. You aiming to have fluid look like motor oil or is that actual motor oil?


I had to look more than once to decide I thought it was copper tubing and not copper looking coolant. It does almost look like motor oil with the weird lighting effect the camera has found.


----------



## dopeonarope

Nothing to exciting about this. going add a 360 rad and remove the 240, then add a new cpu block


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I had to look more than once to decide I thought it was copper tubing and not copper looking coolant. It does almost look like motor oil with the weird lighting effect the camera has found.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, got that engine feel to it. You aiming to have fluid look like motor oil or is that actual motor oil?


I was playing with orange/yellow/green coolant. But eletro you have two type of tubes there the clear acrylic and those painted to match the radiators. Those look like copper (old) but are actually painted acrylic. In the end liquid will be greenish/blueish and tubes will all be painted. But kind of like that color.


----------



## wermad

Did mayhems ever come up with a gold (non pastel) color?


----------



## Wolfsbora

This thread has been depressingly getting more and more quiet. It makes me sad.









I think I'm in need of a 240mm rad, probably a Hardware Labs variant that is airbrushable. Any suggestions?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> This thread has been depressingly getting more and more quiet. It makes me sad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm in need of a 240mm rad, probably a Hardware Labs variant that is airbrushable. Any suggestions?


Its the same every year around this time,people have _lives_ you know......








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did mayhems ever come up with a gold (non pastel) color?


Yellow you mean?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the same every year around this time,people have _lives_ you know......


Unacceptable!







Discussing water cooling is essential for my sanity and/or reading other discussions.







Without it, I just curl up into a ball and tell my 2 year old son to walk 10 miles to buy some potatoes feed himself.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the same every year around this time,people have _lives_ you know......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unacceptable!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Discussing water cooling is essential for my sanity and/or reading other discussions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without it, I just curl up into a ball and tell my 2 year old son to walk 10 miles to buy some potatoes feed himself.
Click to expand...

Dont worry,I have a build being started this weekend......


----------



## deehoC

I wasn't gonna post these in here just yet but since people think the section is slow..heres a few pics to help keep things flowing

Just swapped out the stock barbs/tubing on my Swiftech H240-X with EKWB Black Nickel fittings and EK's UV Blue coolant + Mayhems soft tubing.

Still debating whether I should get a waterblock for for my MSI 970 (Not pictured, its currently out for RMA), a new FX CPU to play with, or another rad, fans and some fittings to expand the loop..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mwlhrh

new build on old mountainmods case (previous build 'that's no moon' posted here many years ago. New panels for the case as well as following:

that's no moon II:

asus Rampage V extreme
intel 5960x
evga 980 Ti hydrocopper (x2)
philips 4k 4065UC monitor (x3)
samsung 950 ssd 512 Gb
corsair memory 64 (16gb x 4)
ek monoblock
xspc twin D5 twin bay res/pump combo
corsair ax1500

just finished last night with power up, so haven't benched/overclocked yet....soon. also have some wire management to do...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yellow you mean?


Iirc, mick said they were trying to make it when he gave suggestions to a member who was attempting to make a gold dye. I really didn't follow it further and I don't know if they (mayhems) did succeed in the color for one of their applications (aurora, etc.).

I agree, holidays does slow things down quite a bit. I've spent the last couple of weeks lugging my family around from shop to shop. Its no funs, but since my loop is down, I don't miss anything







.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dopeonarope*
> 
> Nothing to exciting about this. going add a 360 rad and remove the 240, then add a new cpu block


Get some blocks on that Sabretooth too!









Spoiler: Warning: Sexy blocks!


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Iirc, mick said they were trying to make it when he gave suggestions to a member who was attempting to make a gold dye. I really didn't follow it further and I don't know if they (mayhems) did succeed in the color for one of their applications (aurora, etc.).
> 
> I agree, holidays does slow things down quite a bit. I've spent the last couple of weeks lugging my family around from shop to shop. Its no funs, but since my loop is down, I don't miss anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


just pee in it haha. that'll be golden


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> just pee in it haha. that'll be golden


Lol nothing could go wrong there


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> just pee in it haha. that'll be golden


You might want to do the subway test before you do that .


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> just pee in it haha. that'll be golden


What if I'm hydrated....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> just pee in it haha. that'll be golden
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What if I'm hydrated....
Click to expand...

Or Dehydrated even. Since Brown is not the color he's going for.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> What if I'm hydrated....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or Dehydrated even. Since Brown is not the color he's going for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


just collect it & mix appropriately


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> just pee in it haha. that'll be golden










this made my day.

Edit: down a bunch of redbull/rockstar/monster and it shall rain gold from the skies. ...


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this made my day.
> 
> Edit: down a bunch of redbull/rockstar/monster and it shall rain gold from the skies. ...


bad day i take it then?



i think this would work better


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> bad day i take it then?
> 
> 
> 
> i think this would work better


Just miserable weather, though I'm really anxious to get my final order in before the holiday. I have one more bulkhead to to install and that depends on getting the pump tops installed (also pending in that order).

I'm on a slew of meds, so booze is no for me atm. I may splurge a bit on the egg-nog in a few days







.


----------



## Ceadderman

I just emailed PPCs about putting together a bill so I can purchase the rest of my hardline fittings. They're OoS on my choice of 6packs at the moment and have been every time I have been able to check. I wanted to get them while the discount code is available but I don't see that happening.









~Ceadder


----------



## dopeonarope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Get some blocks on that Sabretooth too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Sexy blocks!


dose it make the broad more stable. I'm having hard time just running at stock speeds. I have never been able to run prime at all.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dopeonarope*
> 
> dose it make the broad more stable. I'm having hard time just running at stock speeds. I have never been able to run prime at all.


You probably shouldn't run prime with stock bios settings. Adaptive voltage can over-volt your core and you can hit your thermal shutoff point. Not sure if that's going on, but kinda sounds like it.


----------



## dopeonarope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> You probably shouldn't run prime with stock bios settings. Adaptive voltage can over-volt your core and you can hit your thermal shutoff point. Not sure if that's going on, but kinda sounds like it.


most likely. this new UEFI bios and all the new settings are new to me. and a bit overwhelming. not know what half these setting are.

I upgraded to the FX last year. i came from and old X2 5000 BE. all these things are pretty new, also i didn't have broad like this one. i had a cheap asus broad that i guess you could say it was a "mainstream" broad.

I've tried to change the voltage and a few things but always fails to post.. i've thought since i've gotten this broad its been defective but after reading all the horror stories about asus's RMA process i've just decided to just deal with the random freezes.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dopeonarope*
> 
> most likely. this new UEFI bios and all the new settings are new to me. and a bit overwhelming. not know what half these setting are.
> 
> I upgraded to the FX last year. i came from and old X2 5000 BE. all these things are pretty new, also i didn't have broad like this one. i had a cheap asus broad that i guess you could say it was a "mainstream" broad.
> 
> I've tried to change the voltage and a few things but always fails to post.. i've thought since i've gotten this broad its been defective but after reading all the horror stories about asus's RMA process i've just decided to just deal with the random freezes.


Random question, how strong of a PSU do you have?


----------



## dopeonarope

Its a Corsair RM850. Not strong enough


----------



## DarthBaggins

It should be strong enough, I'm running an RM850 on my x99 setup at the moment, and had a TX650 on my 8350 w/ 7870


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dopeonarope*
> 
> most likely. this new UEFI bios and all the new settings are new to me. and a bit overwhelming. not know what half these setting are.
> 
> I upgraded to the FX last year. i came from and old X2 5000 BE. all these things are pretty new, also i didn't have broad like this one. i had a cheap asus broad that i guess you could say it was a "mainstream" broad.
> 
> I've tried to change the voltage and a few things but always fails to post.. i've thought since i've gotten this broad its been defective but after reading all the horror stories about asus's RMA process i've just decided to just deal with the random freezes.


Dopeonarope,

Something's wrong. Check out the FX-8320/8350 club thread. You're going to have to go way off topic as far as the watercooling club is concerned; I suggest posting screenshots of your BIOS config on the (very active by the way) relevant club.

That's my favorite board BTW and a great overclocking platform, esp. under water. See my signature


----------



## thedoo

Finished my S8S + Pedestal, need to get some better pics of it though.

2 Hardware Labs SR2-360MP
1 Hardware Labs SR2-240MP
EK Titan X Blocks
EK Supremacy
Koolance Res




Mounted the drain port so I can easily reach for it, now my case can relieve itself










Was also able to squeeze the ambient probe by the front I/O. Thought it would be a nice place to measure from.


----------



## Archea47

Looks good to me thedoo, these Case Labs are a dream to work with.

So what's next now that it's together?


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Looks good to me thedoo, these Case Labs are a dream to work with.
> 
> So what's next now that it's together?


Now it is time to do what every other self-respecting enthusiast would do....

Think about upgrades that need to be made
















Next hardware change I do to my build I want to go back to hard-tubing, using fittings for bends. I started with PETG but it became too much of a pain for some bends so I went to soft tubing. I need to redo the plumbing in the pedestal because it was a pain to get it together, and more than likely going to be a pain for maintenance, so I would like to work on that. Then I'll try my hand at some custom sleeving and get some led's in the case.

But for now, I'll just enjoy some gaming.


----------



## MIGhunter

Have a question for you guys. I finally got the rest of the fittings that I needed that were on back order. So, hopefully my loop is done.



The area I have circled at the top right might be enough room for a PWM fan controller. I was just wondering if you guys know of a low short profile fan controller that might fight there. This is a Fractal Define S case so that's not an actual bay. It's just an extra mount for the radiator if you decided to mount it or the fans that high.

btw, those little pieces of tubing sucked to do. Not much room to plug them in, I hope nothing leaks or it's going to be a pain to fix. Doing the Air test before water so hopefully it won't be an issue.


----------



## taowulf

Cleaned my loop out on Sunday/Monday. I misplaced the oring for the pump, it poured water out like a faucet...that was silly of me.

Oh, and I hate leaky rotaries.

Until I get back to work this is how it stands.


----------



## pc-illiterate

@MIGhunter the only actual pwm controllers worth a damn are the aqueros.


----------



## sk1881

Hi all,

This will be my first water cooling build and have researched into each component, here is what I have come up with. I will be mainly using this for games and some normal day to day stuff...

CPU - i7 6700k
Motherboard - ASUS ROG Maximus Hero VIII
RAM - Corsair Vengeance 2400 (2x8GB)
GPU - EVGA 980Ti Hydro Copper
Case - Phantek Enthoo Luxe
Fan Controller - NZXT Sentry 3
Radiator - EK Coolstream XE 360 (Push and Pull)
Fans - 6x EK Vardar F4-120 (2200rpm)
CPU Waterblock - EK Supremacy Evo
Reservoir - XSPC Photon 170
Pump - D5 Vario
Pump Top - EK D5 X Top Revo
Tubing - Primoflex Advanced Tubing 13/10 - Clear
Fittings - Bitspower
Coolant - Mayhem Pastel

Let me know of your thoughts or suggestions on components that are not good.

Thanks all


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Have a question for you guys. I finally got the rest of the fittings that I needed that were on back order. So, hopefully my loop is done.
> 
> 
> 
> The area I have circled at the top right might be enough room for a PWM fan controller. I was just wondering if you guys know of a low short profile fan controller that might fight there. This is a Fractal Define S case so that's not an actual bay. It's just an extra mount for the radiator if you decided to mount it or the fans that high.
> 
> btw, those little pieces of tubing sucked to do. Not much room to plug them in, I hope nothing leaks or it's going to be a pain to fix. Doing the Air test before water so hopefully it won't be an issue.


Check out the Swiftech PWM controllers. They are small and easy to hide.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the Swiftech PWM controllers. They are small and easy to hide.


I actually bought one to connect all my fans. Was just looking for something to control the speed.

I have another delema. I hooked up my pressure meter get up that I made from the "how to leak test correctly" thread. I can't get it to move when pumping it full of air. The gauge just sits at 0 psi. Which would make me think that there's a huge leak somewhere. What's the best way to figure out where it is? Everything feels good, just not sure where my leak would be.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Now it is time to do what every other self-respecting enthusiast would do....
> 
> *Think about upgrades that need to be made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Next hardware change I do to my build I want to go back to hard-tubing, using fittings for bends




TCO


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sk1881*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> This will be my first water cooling build and have researched into each component, here is what I have come up with. I will be mainly using this for games and some normal day to day stuff...
> 
> CPU - i7 6700k
> Motherboard - ASUS ROG Maximus Hero VIII
> RAM - Corsair Vengeance 2400 (2x8GB)
> GPU - EVGA 980Ti Hydro Copper
> Case - Phantek Enthoo Luxe
> Fan Controller - NZXT Sentry 3
> Radiator - EK Coolstream XE 360 (Push and Pull)
> Fans - 6x EK Vardar F4-120 (2200rpm)
> CPU Waterblock - EK Supremacy Evo
> Reservoir - XSPC Photon 170
> Pump - D5 Vario
> Pump Top - EK D5 X Top Revo
> Tubing - Primoflex Advanced Tubing 13/10 - Clear
> Fittings - Bitspower
> Coolant - Mayhem Pastel
> 
> Let me know of your thoughts or suggestions on components that are not good.
> 
> Thanks all


Don't know if you saw, but EK just released the monoblock for those mobos. *EK releases monoblock for ASUS MAXIMUS VIII motherboards*. If you are planning on overclocking it may help, and it looks cool.


----------



## sk1881

These look really cool. Definitely will be overclocking my machine.

Thanks


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont worry,I have a build being started this weekend......


I need to satisfy this appetite so get on it, B Neg!!!









Btw, I'm so glad to see all of the awesome rigs that have been posted since my comments yesterday! My son won't have to buy some potatoes after all!


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Cleaned my loop out on Sunday/Monday. I misplaced the oring for the pump, it poured water out like a faucet...that was silly of me.
> 
> Oh, and I hate leaky rotaries.
> 
> Until I get back to work this is how it stands.


It seems as though leaky rotaries are the name of the game when it comes to alphacool 90 degree extenders.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> It seems as though leaky rotaries are the name of the game when it comes to alphacool 90 degree extenders.


I had this issue with used Barrow rotaries that I bought from the OCN marketplace. Every single one leaked. My Bitspower rotaries, on the other hand, have been used over and over again without a single leak.


----------



## wermad

Phobya rotaries are also prone to leak as well. I had a nightmare with them leaking right away. Of the alphacool rotary comp fittings I've had, non leaked but the finish is slightly yellowish vs the bluish, bright BP fittings. Which is sort of a let down compared to the BP's.

I bought some 90s a while ago off ebay and though they weren't labeled "barrow", but they were an Enzotech clone. one leaked right away and over time and having gone through a few changes/upgrades, another ceased at the rotary and a 3rd started leaking. Finally, the fourth one was getting stuck on the rotary and eventually I managed to snap it off completely. There was a bit of galvanic corrosion on the threads. Of the BP fittings I bought recently, two dual rotaries leaked on me (both on the second rotary point). My hunch is rotaries can be very sensitive and could leak/give easily.

Barrow has these different 90s and more based on BP rotary 90s. I have a few of the 90s with the hardtube fitting. The rotary is very tight but still manageable. Having had some BP dual and single rotary compression fittings, they were either easy to turn or very hard (like the barrow).




I'm about 80% done with my loop and the last order for the remaining fittings i need (and my pump tops) should be in within the next few days or a week. I'll do a break down after a month or two to check the Barrow fittings.


----------



## Wolfsbora

There is a possibility that the Barrow fittings had sat dry for a long time with the seller before I bought them. The O rings could have dried out by that time. I didn't even bother notifying the seller as I assumed that it wasn't even remotely his fault.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I had this issue with used Barrow rotaries that I bought from the OCN marketplace. Every single one leaked. My Bitspower rotaries, on the other hand, have been used over and over again without a single leak.


Bitspower rotaries are solid but you have to pay an arm and leg for them. Alphacool rotaries don't have QC issues but it's a bad design. The male end is so tiny in width and it ends up flush with the surface so that it's impossible to get a nice tight seal without using pliers.


----------



## wermad

i have a ton of o-rings and I always check em. I bought a bunch of used fittings last year and some needed new o-rings as either they were damaged or compressed too much. Its the rotary section that tends to leak (well, in my case) and once you discover it, its pretty much useless for your loop. Ive kept the leaky fittings and have assigned them to drainage duty. I'll screw one of the these fittings to the valve and with a piece of soft tube, it drains my loop. Since its not under pressure from the loop or pump, it doesn't leak.


----------



## cyphon

Got my heatkiller iv pro in! Looks so sweet


----------



## DarthBaggins

The new HK blocks do look sessi, still want to get my hands on a MIPs block if not I'll go HK and sell off my RayStorm and Apogee HD blocks (still have my Kuplex Cryos Delrin that I love)


----------



## crafty615

Does anyone know a good alternative to prime95 when testing overclock for haswell cpus? My 3770k worked fine with prime staying below 70C but my 4770k hits like 89C even with only 1.2V. I know prine95 is rough on haswells so i was wondering what to use instead.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I thought AIDA64 was the safer alternatvie


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Does anyone know a good alternative to prime95 when testing overclock for haswell cpus? My 3770k worked fine with prime staying below 70C but my 4770k hits like 89C even with only 1.2V. I know prine95 is rough on haswells so i was wondering what to use instead.


I use OCCT


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Does anyone know a good alternative to prime95 when testing overclock for haswell cpus? My 3770k worked fine with prime staying below 70C but my 4770k hits like 89C even with only 1.2V. I know prine95 is rough on haswells so i was wondering what to use instead.


Asus Realbench.

TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> It seems as though leaky rotaries are the name of the game when it comes to alphacool 90 degree extenders.


XSPC 45 degree rotaries in my case. What pissed me off is that the one that wasn't leaking for over a year decided to leak on me too.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use OCCT


Ill check that one out, thanks:thumb:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Asus Realbench.
> 
> TCO


I tried downloading that one but the download page just won't work for me, not sure why.


----------



## wermad

i use ibt


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Does anyone know a good alternative to prime95 when testing overclock for haswell cpus? My 3770k worked fine with prime staying below 70C but my 4770k hits like 89C even with only 1.2V. I know prine95 is rough on haswells so i was wondering what to use instead.


The haswell overclocking forums recommend x264, I use Realbench stress test as it uses x264. Read this thread under stressing... Haswell Overclocking Guide [With Statistics]. You can ask any other questions you have there too. Good knowledge base.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

That's awful luck man. I use alphacool because they're cheap and Even though I have to take that one extra step I'm expecting it.

You can get them on ppc for $5 each. So yea that's about the only reason I choose them over bitspower. $5 vs $15


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Got my heatkiller iv pro in! Looks so sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mmmm, thinking of nabbing one for my upcoming rebuild of my folder. Those look so darn smexy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Bitspower rotaries are solid but you have to pay an arm and leg for them. Alphacool rotaries don't have QC issues but it's a bad design. The male end is so tiny in width and it ends up flush with the surface so that it's impossible to get a nice tight seal without using pliers.


True, they cost a good bit. But, heck, the saying ,"You pay for what you get." I tend to go pretty hardcore to this. Though, I have pull off stuff with cheaper stuff. Just winds up being a pain in the arse though. A drawing with Crayola pencils is a super pain to blend with.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Mmmm, thinking of nabbing one for my upcoming rebuild of my folder. Those look so darn smexy.
> True, they cost a good bit. But, heck, the saying ,"You pay for what you get." I tend to go pretty hardcore to this. Though, I have pull off stuff with cheaper stuff. Just winds up being a pain in the arse though. A drawing with Crayola pencils is a super pain to blend with.


Yea that's true... But the thing is up until now they haven't failed yet like the other person using xspc bends. They just have a crappy design flaw. I'm expecting them to not be hand tighten able. Now if some of them had leaky o rings then yes you would be absolutely right, but here it's an annoyance that can be easily remedied.


----------



## rathar3

Here is my first try at water cooling 






It been months of work but its DONE and running. Love the X9 snow and the monsoon pump housing MMRS res and fittings. Now got to figure out what to do with the x2 i started with.

Please comment as its my first and would like to fix any mistakes

Thanks


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Here is my first try at water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It been months of work but its DONE and running. Love the X9 snow and the monsoon pump housing MMRS res and fittings. Now got to figure out what to do with the x2 i started with.
> 
> Please comment as its my first and would like to fix any mistakes
> 
> Thanks


Hey man. Nice job. I did my first wc build a year ago and just completed my 5th this week. One thing i would suggest, and it's not gonna impact performance but if you mounted the pump vertically under the reservoir so that its inlet was directly under it would look cleaner. Just an aesthetic issue no big deal.

Make sure you remember to put a drain port at the lowest possible point. It can just be s female fitting with a stop fitting attached but if you don't have that draining it will be messy.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Hey man. Nice job. I did my first wc build a year ago and just completed my 5th this week. One thing i would suggest, and it's not gonna impact performance but if you mounted the pump vertically under the reservoir so that its inlet was directly under it would look cleaner. Just an aesthetic issue no big deal.
> 
> Make sure you remember to put a drain port at the lowest possible point. It can just be s female fitting with a stop fitting attached but if you don't have that draining it will be messy.


If you look at the bottom of the rad you can just make out a silver valve thats my drain. Thanks for the tip on mounting the pump. I thought about that but i wanted it to be seen and was worried about the angles on my lines. Also i used a d5 vario pump so figured it would be easier to change the speeds. I have to finish the drain line thru the bottom of the case

I used the monsoon 45deg fittings on the cpu block to help with stress on the fittings and made a bracket for the line to the rad for support

Thanks for the thumbs up. This is not for the faint of heart


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> That's awful luck man. I use alphacool because they're cheap and Even though I have to take that one extra step I'm expecting it.
> 
> You can get them on ppc for $5 each. So yea that's about the only reason I choose them over bitspower. $5 vs $15


Or if you want Bitspower without the Bitspower price tag, you could get Barrow fittings.


----------



## MIGhunter

I asked this a few messages ago but I think it got missed since it was secondary to a quote from someone else. Anyway, I finished my loop, hooked up my airpump to it and I get nothing. When I pump it, my PSI gauge doesn't even move. It's not holding any air (unless it takes 6000 pumps to make it move...) I tested the apparatus not hooked up to the loop and the gauge works and it holds air. So, now I need to figure out where my leak is. It has to be something not sealing at all since it's not holding ANY air. I plan to use bubbles to test for leaks. I guess the issue is, what could cause the leak? Is it possible that I tightened my fittings too tight? I noticed that the fittings have some play in them at the joints. I just assumed that's normal but is it?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> I asked this a few messages ago but I think it got missed since it was secondary to a quote from someone else. Anyway, I finished my loop, hooked up my airpump to it and I get nothing. When I pump it, my PSI gauge doesn't even move. It's not holding any air (unless it takes 6000 pumps to make it move...) I tested the apparatus not hooked up to the loop and the gauge works and it holds air. So, now I need to figure out where my leak is. It has to be something not sealing at all since it's not holding ANY air. I plan to use bubbles to test for leaks. I guess the issue is, what could cause the leak? Is it possible that I tightened my fittings too tight? I noticed that the fittings have some play in them at the joints. I just assumed that's normal but is it?


Carefully apply some watered down dish washing soap around the fittings and other areas where leaks might be present, you should eb able to see bubbles appear around the leak. Just make sure not to drip it on any pcb's.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Carefully apply some watered down dish washing soap around the fittings and other areas where leaks might be present, you should eb able to see bubbles appear around the leak. Just make sure not to drip it on any pcb's.


thanks, since this is my 1st time, wcing, how tight should the fittings be? do you screw them in until tight, snug, just till they pull?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> thanks, since this is my 1st time, wcing, how tight should the fittings be? do you screw them in until tight, snug, just till they pull?


I screw mine as tight as I can with my fingers, I would refrain from using pliers, especially if you're using acrylic blocks.

Just be a bit more careful with acrylic in general.


----------



## Ithanul

Maybe one of ya know my answer.

Looking for a waterblock for a Asus Turbo 970. Just wonder if there actually a full block out there or if I have to go with a universal block instead.

Came across this, works for the mini. Just not sure if the pcb is the same for the turbo.

http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7124043419.html


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I screw mine as tight as I can with my fingers, I would refrain from using pliers, especially if you're using acrylic blocks.
> 
> Just be a bit more careful with acrylic in general.


Ok, thanks, that's what I did.


----------



## Questors

Made some more progress...

For whatever reason, this time around, bending the acrylic tubing has been a rough go. The tube in the pics still needs to be polished to remove surface imperfections. I am going to take a shot at polishing the EKWB SLI bridge this build and see how that goes. Worst case scenario - I grab the black acetal bridge and use it.




















A big of fog in one of the tubes from cleaning, didn't dry it completely before checking fit.









Of course this won't be to everyone's liking, but if we were all the same, the world would be a truly boring place.
















As I am getting close to completion of the plumbing, my attention has turned to a new monitor, backlit mechanical keyboard and a good mouse & mousing surface. I have been lightly considering the Dell S2716DG Gsync monitor and more heavily considering one of the 21:9 3440 x 1440p units - Dell, LG or Samsung. The Ducky Shine 5 keyboard looks pretty nice to me - brown key switches. A mouse? Dunno! Leave a trap armed with some cheese and see what I can come up with!









About these adaptive Sync monitors: I applaud this development and read nothing but good things about it. What I don't like is being forced to choose what products I buy.







Nvidia charging a premium isn't helping my decision making in their favor, hence the 21:9 monitor considerations. I already partially regret buying the 980s over the R9 Furys. Gsync may be the "better" adaptive sync of the two, but Freesync is just that. Why can't these monitor makers offer a third choice: No adaptive sync, IPS, 4ms, 2560x1440p or 3440x1440p @ 100Hz+?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> I tried downloading that one but the download page just won't work for me, not sure why.


Realbench
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> thanks, since this is my 1st time, wcing, how tight should the fittings be? do you screw them in until tight, snug, just till they pull?


Once Snug, Turn another notch. Working with acrylic will allow you to cut a tube to lenght. Once a tube is cut you might notice that you were off by a millimeter or so, that is where your leak will come into play.

I read in your previous posts that have used the air test method.

I hear that works nice









Never been one to air test a loop.

"Leak tested the gpus, Result was a water park







"





TCO


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Once Snug, Turn another notch. Working with acrylic will allow you to cut a tube to lenght. Once a tube is cut you might notice that you were off by a millimeter or so, that is where your leak will come into play.
> 
> I read in your previous posts that have used the air test method.
> 
> I hear that works nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never been one to air test a loop.
> 
> "Leak tested the gpus, Result was a water park
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Ya, I used soft tubing.

Do I put the soapy stuff where the fitting connects to the tubing or where it connects to the part it's cooling or both?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Ya, I used soft tubing.
> 
> Do I put the soapy stuff where the fitting connects to the tubing or where it connects to the part it's cooling or both?


With soft tube, it's much more likely to be a fitting not screwed in all the way or a bad o-ring somewhere. That being said, I usually put it along all seals to make sure I find the leak.

I've had the metal plate on an EK gpu block be the source of a leak before. Was my fault as I cleaned the block and striped a screw putting it back together, but it was the source of a leak.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Got bored so this happened or started (out of spare parts lol)


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Realbench
> Once Snug, Turn another notch. Working with acrylic will allow you to cut a tube to lenght. Once a tube is cut you might notice that you were off by a millimeter or so, that is where your leak will come into play.
> 
> I read in your previous posts that have used the air test method.
> 
> I hear that works nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never been one to air test a loop.
> 
> "Leak tested the gpus, Result was a water park
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I was going to air test mine, I have the gauge, Schroeder valve and air pump...but apparently the wrong size fitting. I was so pissed. Then my O-ring fiasco happened.


----------



## MIGhunter

p.s. I see a lot of videos and pics of ppl leak testing where their fans are running. Is there a reason to have the fans running during the leak test? I haven't plugged in anything on my board at all yet.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> p.s. I see a lot of videos and pics of ppl leak testing where their fans are running. Is there a reason to have the fans running during the leak test? I haven't plugged in anything on my board at all yet.


It don't matter tbh. But its a good opportunity to make sure they all spin. You can unplug them from power if you prefer. When you leak test w/ liquid, just fire up your pump(s).

Personally, while the loop is leak testing and purging air, its a good time to plug things and organize your wiring as it may take a while to purge out the air.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> p.s. I see a lot of videos and pics of ppl leak testing where their fans are running. Is there a reason to have the fans running during the leak test? I haven't plugged in anything on my board at all yet.


Probably handy on a hot day - you can simultaneously spray your face with coolant as it leaks on the fans and test for leaks at the same time....


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> "Leak tested the gpus, Result was a water park
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "


I hope you got out of that one cheaply TCO - ie no damage to hardware...!

Would have certainly made me jump & $#%@! at the same time...

I have been testing using air pressure - Only drawback to this method is where you have a completed loop and it has a slow leak... It is not easy to locate the leak...!

I'm currently building a new PC and one of my mantras has been to 'Pressure test after each small section of tubing is in place'.

This way I can catch any slow leaks out early and can simply go back one or two steps in identifying the root cause rather than try to find a needle in the haystack by trying to check a whole network of fittings and tubing...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> p.s. I see a lot of videos and pics of ppl leak testing where their fans are running. Is there a reason to have the fans running during the leak test? I haven't plugged in anything on my board at all yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Probably handy on a hot day - you can simultaneously spray your face with coolant as it leaks on the fans and test for leaks at the same time....
Click to expand...

Bwahahahahaaaa!

Its funny because its true......


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> If you look at the bottom of the rad you can just make out a silver valve thats my drain. Thanks for the tip on mounting the pump. I thought about that but i wanted it to be seen and was worried about the angles on my lines. Also i used a d5 vario pump so figured it would be easier to change the speeds. I have to finish the drain line thru the bottom of the case
> 
> I used the monsoon 45deg fittings on the cpu block to help with stress on the fittings and made a bracket for the line to the rad for support
> 
> Thanks for the thumbs up. This is not for the faint of heart


If this is your first WC build, welcome to the club...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Or if you want Bitspower without the Bitspower price tag, you could get Barrow fittings.


I havent heard of them...i'll look into them next time. im hardlining everything here on out so hopefully they have male to female 90s.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> I asked this a few messages ago but I think it got missed since it was secondary to a quote from someone else. Anyway, I finished my loop, hooked up my airpump to it and I get nothing. When I pump it, my PSI gauge doesn't even move. It's not holding any air (unless it takes 6000 pumps to make it move...) I tested the apparatus not hooked up to the loop and the gauge works and it holds air. So, now I need to figure out where my leak is. It has to be something not sealing at all since it's not holding ANY air. I plan to use bubbles to test for leaks. I guess the issue is, what could cause the leak? Is it possible that I tightened my fittings too tight? I noticed that the fittings have some play in them at the joints. I just assumed that's normal but is it?


One thing I do to test for leaks is to hook up a small piece of tubing to the fillport and just breathe into it, hard. If the air doesnt come back at me, then I know something's wrong. You can try this and see if it helps because if the PSI guage isnt moving that means the pressure isnt increasing and I would think that if your loop is air tight it should hold air if its being pumped in there. What fittings are you using so we can better assist you?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> thanks, since this is my 1st time, wcing, how tight should the fittings be? do you screw them in until tight, snug, just till they pull?


Like the other guy @Gilles3000 said, they should be finger tight, but at the same time it does depend on the fittings themselves. I have a pair of lineman pliers that are thin but sturdy. I have to use these on my alphacool fittings due to the narrow male knurling (relative to the female knurling)...These fittings are good, but they have been the source of a lot of minor leaks (none catastrophic, but still). if you're using fittings that have this issue, you have to tighten them down all the way...In fact pretty much every fitting should be tight enough that you cannot tighten anymore with your finger (assuming that you'd actually be able to grip the knurling unlike on alphacool's 90s)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> p.s. I see a lot of videos and pics of ppl leak testing where their fans are running. Is there a reason to have the fans running during the leak test? I haven't plugged in anything on my board at all yet.


You see, most of the time the pumps are on a certain line from the PSU, which incidentally the fans are also running off of. So when you leak test (turning on the pump) the fans that are connected and running off of the same power source are going to spin up also.

If you have fans plugged into the board, and they spin while you are leak testing, then you are doing something wrong (Supplying power to the motherboard while leak testing the system)

TCO


----------



## Vesimas

What would you choose between:

A) Alphacool XT45 420 + Alphacool UT60 360 simple tube routing?
or
B) Alphacool XT45 420 + Alphacool UT60 280 + Alphacool XT45 240 little more complicated tube routing but perfect use of the Enthoo Primo accessories?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> What would you choose between:
> 
> A) Alphacool XT45 420 + Alphacool UT60 360 simple tube routing?
> or
> B) Alphacool XT45 420 + Alphacool UT60 280 + Alphacool XT45 240 little more complicated tube routing but perfect use of the Enthoo Primo accessories?


If you use a UT60 it's thick enough that itll take a performance hit if you're not using push pull...i.e XT45 vs UT60 is about the same in push, but its a difference of 10-15% in performance when you compare both in push pull...

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/7/

That being said, I would get the biggest thickest radiator that you KNOW can fit in your case while being able to comfortably route both your plumbing and cables.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You see, most of the time the pumps are on a certain line from the PSU, which incidentally the fans are also running off of. So when you leak test (turning on the pump) the fans that are connected and running off of the same power source are going to spin up also.
> 
> If you have fans plugged into the board, and they spin while you are leak testing, then you are doing something wrong (Supplying power to the motherboard while leak testing the system)
> 
> TCO


I just use this to plug my pump into a surge protector, so i can use the switch on it to prime the loop and leak test

http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450967687&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+coolerguys


----------



## Vesimas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> If you use a UT60 it's thick enough that itll take a performance hit if you're not using push pull


Yep with both configuration (A or B) i'll do push/pull on every radiator







The UT60 (360 or 280) ill be on bottom to use the single side port as drain


----------



## c0d3man

Hey guys, I literally just finished this build and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I did an entire build log on it here on the forums as well.

The build specs are in my Rig Builder link.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0d3man*
> 
> Hey guys, I literally just finished this build and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I did an entire build log on it here on the forums as well.
> 
> The build specs are in my Rig Builder link.


Looks good. I just finished a build this week as well!


----------



## Nick the Slick

An interesting past few months for me. Lots of changes to my forever ongoing build lol. New Phanteks Enthoo Pro series case, new XSCP EX360 rad to go along with my old EX240, 5 new Darkside GT Black Edition PWN fans, finally got a backplate for my GPU, and a drain port! I always wanted a drain port, not sure why i'm obsessed with that lol. But anyways, here she is now, hope you enjoy








(and sorry for the crappy quality of the pics. I'm no photographer and a camera phone can only do so much):




Spoiler: More pics


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

My crazy chillputer














Oh yeah Merry Xmas from 'Straya


----------



## Ithanul

 Holy mackerel. Looks like tentacle monster attacking that computer.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Thanks mate , details are in my sig if interested


----------



## c0d3man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Looks good. I just finished a build this week as well!


Thank you! Now comess the debt and guilty feeling hahaha


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0d3man*
> 
> Thank you! Now comess the debt and guilty feeling hahaha


Yea I know what you mean. Not sure if you know this but performance pcs accepts PayPal credit, which allows you to pay for anything > $99 over 6 months with no interest as long as you pay the balance off over that time...

Don't turn it into a habit though lol


----------



## c0d3man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea I know what you mean. Not sure if you know this but performance pcs accepts PayPal credit, which allows you to pay for anything > $99 over 6 months with no interest as long as you pay the balance off over that time...
> 
> Don't turn it into a habit though lol


Ohhhhhh yes thats where this build went is paypal credit lmao


----------



## MIGhunter

OK, so what's the deal with a GPU block? I used the plug opposite my tubing for my air test. Wouldn't hold air at all. So I tested without the GPU and bam, holds air just fine. Plugged the GPU back in and won't hold air again. Unhooked the air pump, hooked the GPU up loop wise and used another spot to hook up the air pump, holds air just fine. So what about the anatomy of the GPU block that makes it not hold air when using one of the plugs?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> OK, so what's the deal with a GPU block? I used the plug opposite my tubing for my air test. Wouldn't hold air at all. So I tested without the GPU and bam, holds air just fine. Plugged the GPU back in and won't hold air again. Unhooked the air pump, hooked the GPU up loop wise and used another spot to hook up the air pump, holds air just fine. So what about the anatomy of the GPU block that makes it not hold air when using one of the plugs?


I can say this much with EK blocks because my "expertise" is limited here but I've noticed they all have leak test QC sticker. Not sure if every brand has this. Make sure that it's still in tact...but my guess is that is one of your fittings isnt on tight enough. Are you using right angle fittings on your gpu block by any chance?


----------



## Georgey123

Thanks for the video B Neg, makes me think about the PETG in my loop at the moment.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> My crazy chillputer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah Merry Xmas from 'Straya


Why do you come here making fun of us? you do realize the rest of us here just do the case customizing and simple loops right? we dont try to chill hal plus the space station and cure global warming all in a single shot.









merry christmas to you!
merry christmas to everyone who can read this!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> My crazy chillputer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah Merry Xmas from 'Straya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why do you come here making fun of us? you do realize the rest of us here just do the case customizing and simple loops right? we dont try to chill hal plus the space station and cure global warming all in a single shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> merry christmas to you!
> merry christmas to everyone who can read this!
Click to expand...

I certainly don't feel made fun of . . . .

I really like seeing technology pushed, the same way as I like seeing aesthetics pushed.

I'm not sure a sub-zero setup would work out very well here in the high humidity tropics, as opposed to in a nicely air conditioned dry location, but sub ambient, (right above dew point) has some serious advantages here for sure.

Are you just using the chillers for cooling a liquid loop, or is there a phase setup in there somewhere?

Darlene


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Thanks for the video B Neg, makes me think about the PETG in my loop at the moment.


I wanted to try acrylic as B Neg showed me a video it's pretty strong as it is anyway so other than PETG being easier to heat but not as clear as acrylic I just got some acrylic from Santa. I'll try PETG one day just for the sake of experience but till then I'm not really that bothered about which over what.

Also, Merry Christmas everyone! If you don't celebrate Christmas then Have an awesome day all the same!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Didnt realize my chillputer makes fun of people









@IT Diva

Hi Darlene ,

There is no phase change here just two Hailea chillers a HC 1000 for the cards and a HC 150a for the cpu and a bit of insulation on the hoses for sub ambient 24/7 cooling

I originally built it over 2 years ago as a bench rig .

Details are in my sig


----------



## pc-illiterate

Just playing around guys, gals too. pokin a bit of fun is all. both great set-ups.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> OK, so what's the deal with a GPU block? I used the plug opposite my tubing for my air test. Wouldn't hold air at all. So I tested without the GPU and bam, holds air just fine. Plugged the GPU back in and won't hold air again. Unhooked the air pump, hooked the GPU up loop wise and used another spot to hook up the air pump, holds air just fine. So what about the anatomy of the GPU block that makes it not hold air when using one of the plugs?


are you using the same fittings and same tube runs when testing just the gpu?

if you have an angle fitting, it could be that. if you have rigid tube and are not using the same fittings in your isolated test, it could be a torn o-ring in the fitting. also, if you are using any additional fittings to attach your air test components, check that those are ok. I've had my loop be 100% ok, but was leaking air because of a 90 degree dual rotary that was using to connect and orient my pressure gauge was leaking, lol


----------



## electro2u

Just wanted to send out Holiday wishes to some of the great watercoolers we lost this year:

UnicornHunter--Wherever you are, a fan is twirling in your honor here.

Leonard Nemoy--Spock was an avid watercooling enthusiast.

Dr. Oliver Sacks--Famous neurologist had a lifelong fascination with the healing effects of water.

Scott Weiland--Of course, Scott used water to cool all sorts of things.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> OK, so what's the deal with a GPU block? I used the plug opposite my tubing for my air test. Wouldn't hold air at all. So I tested without the GPU and bam, holds air just fine. Plugged the GPU back in and won't hold air again. Unhooked the air pump, hooked the GPU up loop wise and used another spot to hook up the air pump, holds air just fine. So what about the anatomy of the GPU block that makes it not hold air when using one of the plugs?


Some GPU blocks, at least the bridges / terminals that provide the connectivity for them, have ports that are recessed below the surrounding surface.

Sometimes only fittings from the same company will fit into the recessed area and provide a positive seal.

If you use a different brand fitting, you may have to use a very short adapter/extender, since the fitting doesn't fit down into the recess enough for its O ring to adequately seal, even though the fitting is screwed in tightly.

Look closely at the fittings you had in place when it leaked, and where you replaced them with plugs when it didn't leak.

Darlene


----------



## catbuster

Think B has enough of chanses of winning it, if ppl will go for mods not the looks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Thanks for the video B Neg, makes me think about the PETG in my loop at the moment.


I wanted to try acrylic as B Neg showed me a video it's pretty strong as it is anyway so other than PETG being easier to heat but not as clear as acrylic I just got some acrylic from Santa. I'll try PETG one day just for the sake of experience but till then I'm not really that bothered about which over what.

Also, Merry Christmas everyone! If you don't celebrate Christmas then Have an awesome day all the same![/quote]

I was thinking the same thing. Why he just didn't drop a piece of PETG into a cup of ethylene glycol prior to filming(a day or so) and test for malleability kinda stupefied me. Just a check on the Internet and passing it along borders on irresponsibility.

I will likely go with PETG for my build because I run straight distilled with zero additives and the tubing choice is white so there are zero worries of clarity. If it looks sharp and is stronger than acrylic, that's what I will go with. If I want a premixed color solution then I will go with Acrylic.

Also just for FYI, Daz tested the BP tubing cutter. Fails miserably on Acrylic. Cut PETG like a champ and Copper tubing(what it is intended for) was nicely cut as well. Although he could have saved himself some headache by giving the tubes a full wrap of painters tape to keep the tubing from being marred by the cutter and should of had some water available in his "I CUT" video, but to be fair it was a spur of the moment cobbling so I can't bag on him for at least sharing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Klue22

Please remember that moderation is not to be discussed on the public forum. If you have any questions about moderation please contact myself or one of the other staff. Many of you are not filled in on all the facts and are jumping to conclusions which only serves to hurt the image of the staff when you post them publicly. Also this degrades the professionalism of OCN.


----------



## Freakn

Sorry about that Klue, I'll do my best to follow the opinion to the site from now on.

And I believe open discussions make a site/forum look stronger because of tolerance and understanding.


----------



## Klue22

The idea of open discussions is wonderful. Sadly there are always those people that can't remain civil and since this is the internet, people are not often privy to all the information which leads to people jumping to conclusions, etc etc. The reason that we don't allow moderation talk on the public forum is because while it might be a fair concept, it just hasn't worked. Kind of like communism! (lol).

That said, if anyone has *any* questions regarding moderation, even if its about moderation action that was taken against someone else, then please PM me and I'd be happy to explain everything I can.
Merry Christmas everyone.


----------



## Freakn

Merry Christmas to you to Klue


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummmmm okay, guess we can't post YouTube vids now? Was wondering why I couldn't find B's original posting. Guess I found out the hard way. Not questioning moderation just lost on the issue in question.









Merry Xmas to everybody from me and mine.






























~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

They pulled B's posting of a youtube vid?
If asking this is what 'questioning moderation' means, please explain to us and point where in the ToS it specifically states why we can't post videos from youtube and where it states we can't openly question enterprise's decisions publicly. if it wasn't enterprise's decision to remove that post, and any like it, who made that decision?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ummmmm okay, guess we can't post YouTube vids now? Was wondering why I couldn't find B's original posting. Guess I found out the hard way. Not questioning moderation just lost on the issue in question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Merry Xmas to everybody from me and mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What was originally removed was NOT a Youtube link. It was something completely different. A ban may not be the final outcome, please be patient and proceed with the thread normally. Edit; after personal review, a ban indeed won't be issued. Again, proceed.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> What was originally removed was NOT a Youtube link. It was something completely different. A ban may not be the final outcome, please be patient and proceed with the thread normally. Edit; after personal review, a ban indeed won't be issued. Again, proceed.


External links to competing websites is always a touchy subject, but isn't the internet (and web forums in general) supposed to be about sharing information?

I mean if i wanted meaningless pictures I'd go onto the plenty of Instagram and Facebook accounts and then they would see the revenue.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I can say this much with EK blocks because my "expertise" is limited here but I've noticed they all have leak test QC sticker. Not sure if every brand has this. Make sure that it's still in tact...but my guess is that is one of your fittings isnt on tight enough. Are you using right angle fittings on your gpu block by any chance?


Yes, I do have a 90 degree fitting coming off of the GPU. I'm using an EKWB block and all EKWB fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> are you using the same fittings and same tube runs when testing just the gpu?
> 
> if you have an angle fitting, it could be that. if you have rigid tube and are not using the same fittings in your isolated test, it could be a torn o-ring in the fitting. also, if you are using any additional fittings to attach your air test components, check that those are ok. I've had my loop be 100% ok, but was leaking air because of a 90 degree dual rotary that was using to connect and orient my pressure gauge was leaking, lol


I'm using all EKWB equipment. Also all soft tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Some GPU blocks, at least the bridges / terminals that provide the connectivity for them, have ports that are recessed below the surrounding surface.
> 
> Sometimes only fittings from the same company will fit into the recessed area and provide a positive seal.
> 
> If you use a different brand fitting, you may have to use a very short adapter/extender, since the fitting doesn't fit down into the recess enough for its O ring to adequately seal, even though the fitting is screwed in tightly.
> 
> Look closely at the fittings you had in place when it leaked, and where you replaced them with plugs when it didn't leak.
> 
> Darlene


like above, all EKWB blocks and fittings. It's weird. I haven't put water in the system yet, just testing with air. Going to get things all soapy next time I have the day off and see if I can find some bubbles.


----------



## DrakeZ

just finished my build! and i really love this case











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> just finished my build! and i really love this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. Are you thinking of doing the gpu as well in the near future?


----------



## DarthBaggins

If so I think Alphacool makes A block that'll work w/ that Sapphire card (270x?)


----------



## DrakeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Very nice. Are you thinking of doing the gpu as well in the near future?


thank you









yeah i'd like to but sadly the space of the case is already cramped and it won't fit extra radiator









it's not sufficient enough right to cool both cpu and gpu with only 240 rad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> If so I think Alphacool makes A block that'll work w/ that Sapphire card (270x?)


is that so? because when i checked on ppcs, the board that supported is only for powercolor devil and xfx

yes it is sapphire dual-x R9 270X


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah i'd like to but sadly the space of the case is already cramped and it won't fit extra radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's not sufficient enough right to cool both cpu and gpu with only 240 rad
> is that so? because when i checked on ppcs, the board that supported is only for powercolor devil and xfx
> 
> yes it is sapphire dual-x R9 270X


Looks like it was this one according to the Compatibility list: http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-nexxxos-gpx-ati-r9-270x-m07-with-backplate-black.html#Details


----------



## Ithanul

Fo dinky, this Define S not going to work with EATX board I got my hands on. Hmmmm, think this calls for dremel time.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I luv dremel time


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I luv dremel time


O just wait, I will find a way to smack this EATX into that case then smack the water cool goodies into it. Not letting this case go to waste. To nice for that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Fo dinky, this Define S not going to work with EATX board I got my hands on. Hmmmm, think this calls for dremel time.


Should fit fine I know my Brother's x79 rig is setup in a Define S last I remember


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Should fit fine I know my Brother's x79 rig is setup in a Define S last I remember


Nah, it don't, this RIVE a bit wide. It won't lay flat into the Define S. Going to have to do a small bit of dremel work to get it in. Not much, but just enough to get the board to lay into it.

Then the fun of smacking a Res/Pump combo, three GPUs, and a few radiators.









I got a bad habit of collecting radiators. Got like five or six laying around here.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I gots about that too plus mobos , cpus , rams and a very large enermax case that's too small for my chillputer


----------



## Ithanul

Picture time. I will manage to smack this bugger in there. I manage to smack a 200mm radiator into my main rig so this should be a walk the park in comparison.




Thinking of getting a heatkiller acetal block for this CPU. Will go nicely with the broad.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Picture time. I will manage to smack this bugger in there. I manage to smack a 200mm radiator into my main rig so this should be a walk the park in comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of getting a heatkiller acetal block for this CPU. Will go nicely with the broad.


FYI, that case flexes a lot. I had an issue with my top rad and the way I tightened the screws down flexing my case just enough that the side panel didn't go back on right. Had to loosen it and rescrew it down just right to fix it.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> FYI, that case flexes a lot. I had an issue with my top rad and the way I tightened the screws down flexing my case just enough that the side panel didn't go back on right. Had to loosen it and rescrew it down just right to fix it.


Alright, I tend to not get to crazy with the radiators anyway. Tend to be a bit paranoid with them since I don't want to mess one up. Though, I am nuts with compression barbs. My ex jet troop crazy tighten of plumbing kicks in.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC




----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


HEY! you need to label that crap NSFW!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEY! you need to label that crap NSFW!!!!
Click to expand...

I just noticed what looks like copper trim on those GPU pcb?









~Ceadder


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I just noticed what looks like copper trim on those GPU pcb?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nah thems is R9 290 XSPC copper blocks matches the EK copper block and the pbc colour is pcb brown


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I just noticed what looks like copper trim on those GPU pcb?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah thems is R9 290 XSPC copper blocks matches the EK copper block and the pbc colour is pcb brown
Click to expand...

On my phone they look copper colored. Give it a few months and you'd swear on a stack of bibles that there is no PCB between the Block and Backplates.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> On my phone they look copper colored. Give it a few months and you'd swear on a stack of bibles that there is no PCB between the Block and Backplates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


Should of done it.

From the GPU pinstriping Fan Club Member #1


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> HEY! you need to label that crap NSFW!!!!


Hehe, watercooling is not safe for wallet.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. Definitely a motherboard being fully used up.

Though, my mobo going to look a bit wacky since it going to have a 980 STRIX, 960 FTW, and a 970 Turbo smacked on it being water cooled.







But boy, that folder going to be chopping like crazy.









Just trying to hunt up a water block for the 970 Turbo atm.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Who creates backplates around here?


----------



## Adraps11

Here is my humble AIO system. I'm thinking of going full loop someday, when I get back to work again this may be my next project.


----------



## Benjiw

Can someone help me out I'm struggling to put fittings on me advance lrt tubing, my forearms are killing me I've tried using heat to soften the tube but it's still mega difficult to get the ruddy stuff on!


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can someone help me out I'm struggling to put fittings on me advance lrt tubing, my forearms are killing me I've tried using heat to soften the tube but it's still mega difficult to get the ruddy stuff on!


I always boil water, and let it cool for a minute or 5 and than hold the tube in it for a lil'.

Hope it helps!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I always boil water, and let it cool for a minute or 5 and than hold the tube in it for a lil'.
> 
> Hope it helps!


Tried that yet my forearms feel like I've been watching a marathon of adult films lol


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can someone help me out I'm struggling to put fittings on me advance lrt tubing, my forearms are killing me I've tried using heat to soften the tube but it's still mega difficult to get the ruddy stuff on!


I had the same problem with my Adbanced LRT and BP fittings. Try putting a small amount of silicone grease or mineral oil on the outside of the tube. It seemed to help a tiny bit. I also used needle nosed pliers to hold the base and channel locks to spin the nut. It was the only way to get them to thread, but it marred some of the paint off my fittings, so do it at your own risk.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Tried that yet my forearms feel like I've been watching a marathon of adult films lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Tried that yet my forearms feel like I've been watching a marathon of adult films lol


well i lmao haha! What fittings & tube?

you should try heat the tube or coolit? ive had hard tube ive had to to cool before to fit it!


----------



## Rekt-Gamer

Here is my current attempt at water cooling. Just got me a new Gigabyte Gaming G1 motherboard with the water block built right on.









Not sure how many pictures to or not to post so I'll stop there lol. Looking to water cool the EVGA 980ti next but as you know that will be almost a complete rebuild for the water cooling. The wallet's gonna need some water cooling first. The helix reservior looks really great when lighted but when trying to take pictures is's just one big light so I had to settle for turning the light off. I'm trying to use mostly fittings for this build instead of all the tubing running around and it seems to be working just fine. I figured that since all the fittings are G1/4 why not just use that size?

Oh, one more picture just so you know how great that OCOOL UT60 Full Copper 360 radiator is working for me. And I usually run the Corsair SP 120 high performance edition fans at 1400 RPM so I don't even hear them during normal gaming operation on both Battlefield 4 and Battlefront.


----------



## electro2u

Frankly, it looks hazardous


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Frankly, it looks hazardous


I concur. what is holding the res up? That is allot of weight to be putting onto fittings going into the motherboard @ 90 degrees.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Hello everyone. So I took the day off to tear apart my loop. As you can see the white tubing is turning pink and showing through.


The water is crystal clear after I drained it. No particles floating around.

I decided to tear apart the block because it has been running no-stop 24/7 for the last 9 months.



Surprisingly clean! I do not like the dark copper color and I think this is where my discoloration in my hoses is coming from.

And for what I see inside. As you can see I rubbed off a bit inside with my finger. It came off pretty gently.



And after I put it back together I decided to rip out the DVD cage (which was easy, 8 rivets and 4 screws!) and mount the res on the side panel using some nice strong velcro. I lost some tubing this way and dropped temps -7C. Hovering at 33C, load at 63C.



Any ideas about the pink discoloration? Something to keep an eye out for next time I tear it apart?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rekt-Gamer*
> 
> Here is my current attempt at water cooling. Just got me a new Gigabyte Gaming G1 motherboard with the water block built right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how many pictures to or not to post so I'll stop there lol. Looking to water cool the EVGA 980ti next but as you know that will be almost a complete rebuild for the water cooling. The wallet's gonna need some water cooling first. The helix reservior looks really great when lighted but when trying to take pictures is's just one big light so I had to settle for turning the light off. I'm trying to use mostly fittings for this build instead of all the tubing running around and it seems to be working just fine. I figured that since all the fittings are G1/4 why not just use that size?
> 
> Oh, one more picture just so you know how great that OCOOL UT60 Full Copper 360 radiator is working for me. And I usually run the Corsair SP 120 high performance edition fans at 1400 RPM so I don't even hear them during normal gaming operation on both Battlefield 4 and Battlefront.


Where is the support for the res?. I might be new to doing this but that looks like a pretty unstable setup.I would think over time those fittings or the res housing will be come fatigued and fail. That's just my 2 cents


----------



## Archea47

There are few things in life gentlemen and women finer than watercooling computers with your children











I was describing how RAID5 works to them and they were drinking it up!


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> There are few things in life gentlemen and women finer than watercooling computers with your children
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was describing how RAID5 works to them and they were drinking it up!


Dunno at 51 years old i have no kids. just 2 pet pigs


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Dunno at 51 years old i have no kids. just 2 pet pigs


Buy some...they're great!


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Buy some...they're great!


Thanks but pass.They throw you in jail for locking kids in a pet crate. With my pigs its just a time out


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> On my phone they look copper colored. Give it a few months and you'd swear on a stack of bibles that there is no PCB between the Block and Backplates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


They do too , A unexpected modd there ........



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Should of done it.
> 
> From the GPU pinstriping Fan Club Member #1


Hmmmm very nice man

It looks like I have by total accident LoooooL


----------



## caliking420

Thinking of pulling the trigger on a custom loop in the week or two. Here is what i have so far (EK just seems to be the route everyone goes so i started there)

RES: EK-RES X3 250 Lite

PUMP: EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM

RAD: EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad)

GPU BLOCK: 2X EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel (MSI 980Ti 6G) with backplates

CPU BLOCK: EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 115x

SLI TERMINAL: EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial

Fans: 8x EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120 (3000rpm)

then of course all necessary fittings and tubing.

I want to put all that in an obsidian 900D. Just not sure if i want to spend $1300 plus on this.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Where is the support for the res?. I might be new to doing this but that looks like a pretty unstable setup.I would think over time those fittings or the res housing will be come fatigued and fail. That's just my 2 cents


Sorry, this is what I meant to say.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caliking420*
> 
> Thinking of pulling the trigger on a custom loop in the week or two. Here is what i have so far (EK just seems to be the route everyone goes so i started there)
> 
> RES: EK-RES X3 250 Lite
> 
> PUMP: EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM
> 
> RAD: EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad)
> 
> GPU BLOCK: 2X EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel (MSI 980Ti 6G) with backplates
> 
> CPU BLOCK: EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 115x
> 
> SLI TERMINAL: EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial
> 
> Fans: 8x EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120 (3000rpm)
> 
> then of course all necessary fittings and tubing.
> 
> I want to put all that in an obsidian 900D. Just not sure if i want to spend $1300 plus on this.
> 
> Any advice is greatly appreciated!


As someone that just did this for the first time all i can say READ READ then READ more. Check reviews and forums on the items you are thinking of buying.
I had 2 criteria when i started mine. First i wanted a solid system that had good solid equipment. Second i did a mock up of all my equipment before i did the real install.

Had a o ring fail on my mmrs pump housing right off the bat i think i pinched it when i did the install.second leak was a 90deg rotary on my rad that i installed for my drain. I tighten it up and no leak.
If you think you might need a fitting or something order it when you get everything . I ordered extra fittings o rings and misc parts so i had them. By mocking up with cheap 50cent per foot tubing saved me money in the more expensive tubing later.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Definitely agree to do your homework before fully diving in, but also don't let it intimidate you either. My first loop was all made from Used parts off the marketplace so didn't spend a lot on it since I wanted to go inexpensive on my first one.


----------



## vertigo08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can someone help me out I'm struggling to put fittings on me advance lrt tubing, my forearms are killing me I've tried using heat to soften the tube but it's still mega difficult to get the ruddy stuff on!


Are they Bitspower V3 fittings?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caliking420*
> 
> Thinking of pulling the trigger on a custom loop in the week or two. Here is what i have so far (EK just seems to be the route everyone goes so i started there)
> 
> RES: EK-RES X3 250 Lite
> 
> PUMP: EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM
> 
> RAD: EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad)
> 
> GPU BLOCK: 2X EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel (MSI 980Ti 6G) with backplates
> 
> CPU BLOCK: EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 115x
> 
> SLI TERMINAL: EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial
> 
> Fans: 8x EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120 (3000rpm)
> 
> then of course all necessary fittings and tubing.
> 
> I want to put all that in an obsidian 900D. Just not sure if i want to spend $1300 plus on this.
> ,
> Any advice is greatly appreciated!


If you havent already bought the case, I would just save up an extra $2-300 and get the sma8 or the SM8...This is just me but as someone who owns a 900D, I have to say that it has its issues, and it feels a little flimsy for such a big case. It's also not as mod friendly as the SMA8.

Also I would go with the EK XE series rather than the PE...Youre better off with a 60mm radiator if you can fit it, and I know that you can push pull with at least two of the four fans on there. The PE version is only 30mm thick and doesnt offer much better in performance than its competitors but XE won the award for best radiator hands down in radiator roundup...

And you dont need a serial terminal... i think this is more for looks than anything.


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> If you havent already bought the case, I would just save up an extra $2-300 and get the sma8 or the SM8...This is just me but as someone who owns a 900D, I have to say that it has its issues, and it feels a little flimsy for such a big case. It's also not as mod friendly as the SMA8.
> 
> Also I would go with the EK XE series rather than the PE...Youre better off with a 60mm radiator if you can fit it, and I know that you can push pull with at least two of the four fans on there. The PE version is only 30mm thick and doesnt offer much better in performance than its competitors but XE won the award for best radiator hands down in radiator roundup...


Correct I would go for a sma8 if I was to do it over again as the tolerances on a 900D are not the best but spending 2,500$ just on EK - bitspower - etc. water cooling parts the cost was getting a bit out of control


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Correct I would go for a sma8 if I was to do it over again as the tolerances on a 900D are not the best but spending 2,500$ just on EK - bitspower - etc. water cooling parts the cost was getting a bit out of control


Yea i guess I would just suggest look on the marketplace to see if some cheap rads can be sourced, and just set up a loop using whatever case the aircooling setup is in, while you save up for a more customized case. All the mainstream cases are air cooling cases that just happen to be amenable to watercooling. They arent watercooling cases. That being said the 750D is ok for watercooling, but the 900D is a total waste in my opinion... It was Corsair's horrible response to the SMA8...


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea i guess I would just suggest look on the marketplace to see if some cheap rads can be sourced, and just set up a loop using whatever case the aircooling setup is in, while you save up for a more customized case. All the mainstream cases are air cooling cases that just happen to be amenable to watercooling. They arent watercooling cases. That being said the 750D is ok for watercooling, but the 900D is a total waste in my opinion... It was Corsair's horrible response to the SMA8...


To late to much money and time to make a decent case out of it all ready spent - post a thread soon


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> To late to much money and time to make a decent case out of it all ready spent - post a thread soon


well you did some really extensive modding...so im sure itll look great!

Good luck, and i look forward to the log...


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> well you did some really extensive modding...so im sure itll look great!
> 
> Good luck, and i look forward to the log...


Sure have and thanks - sorry for crap pic fixed that just got a Nikon 5100 first pic no studio setup came out like this - looks pretty nice to me - look better on my Titan X


----------



## caliking420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> If you havent already bought the case, I would just save up an extra $2-300 and get the sma8 or the SM8...This is just me but as someone who owns a 900D, I have to say that it has its issues, and it feels a little flimsy for such a big case. It's also not as mod friendly as the SMA8.
> 
> Also I would go with the EK XE series rather than the PE...Youre better off with a 60mm radiator if you can fit it, and I know that you can push pull with at least two of the four fans on there. The PE version is only 30mm thick and doesnt offer much better in performance than its competitors but XE won the award for best radiator hands down in radiator roundup...
> 
> And you dont need a serial terminal... i think this is more for looks than anything.


Well to be honest $500+ for a case seems a little over board. And ill keep the XE mind when I get everything figured out, Its obliviously the better choice . And the reason i put the terminal in there is because i really like the way they look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea i guess I would just suggest look on the marketplace to see if some cheap rads can be sourced, and just set up a loop using whatever case the aircooling setup is in, while you save up for a more customized case. All the mainstream cases are air cooling cases that just happen to be amenable to watercooling. They arent watercooling cases. That being said the 750D is ok for watercooling, but the 900D is a total waste in my opinion... It was Corsair's horrible response to the SMA8...


Well after a few weeks i wont have the money to do this, so I'm trying to get this done in one order. And i would rather buy the parts new, not that there is anything wrong with used i just have my preferences. And i choose the 900D over a case labs for that reason, im not going do do heavy modding. and thought the size would be good for a dual 480 rad set up.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> If you havent already bought the case, I would just save up an extra $2-300 and get the sma8 or the SM8...This is just me but as someone who owns a 900D, I have to say that it has its issues, and it feels a little flimsy for such a big case. It's also not as mod friendly as the SMA8.
> 
> Also I would go with the EK XE series rather than the PE...Youre better off with a 60mm radiator if you can fit it, and I know that you can push pull with at least two of the four fans on there. The PE version is only 30mm thick and doesnt offer much better in performance than its competitors but XE won the award for best radiator hands down in radiator roundup...
> 
> And you dont need a serial terminal... i think this is more for looks than anything.


I started with a core x2 changed to a Core x9 snow for more room


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> Yea i guess I would just suggest look on the marketplace to see if some cheap rads can be sourced, and just set up a loop using whatever case the aircooling setup is in, while you save up for a more customized case. All the mainstream cases are air cooling cases that just happen to be amenable to watercooling. They arent watercooling cases. That being said the 750D is ok for watercooling, but the 900D is a total waste in my opinion... It was Corsair's horrible response to the SMA8...


How is the 900d a wast of money? It is half the cost of a SMA8 and can hold 1440mm of rad easily. If you want the rad space and don't want to drop 500+ on a caselabs I highly recommend it. Now I will say corsair disappointed me on the some of the build quality when I compare it to my 800D but it is still a solid watercooling case.


----------



## DarthBaggins

After going from a Corsair case (very flimsy - you get what you pay for) to my M8 I'll never go back to a Corsair case unless per request (the new 600C looks good but I already have a R.ATX C70). The price is due to the higher quality of the product that CaseLabs puts out, and always keep an eye out in the Marketplace some people off-load them for extremely great deals.

The 900D is definitely a flimsy case, but if that's what style you want and w/in budget then go for it.


----------



## caliking420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Definitely agree to do your homework before fully diving in, but also don't let it intimidate you either. My first loop was all made from Used parts off the marketplace so didn't spend a lot on it since I wanted to go inexpensive on my first one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> After going from a Corsair case (very flimsy - you get what you pay for) to my M8 I'll never go back to a Corsair case unless per request (the new 600C looks good but I already have a R.ATX C70). The price is due to the higher quality of the product that CaseLabs puts out, and always keep an eye out in the Marketplace some people off-load them for extremely great deals.
> 
> The 900D is definitely a flimsy case, but if that's what style you want and w/in budget then go for it.


I really appreciate the input bud, I'm going to take your advice and research more than i have. Also I'lll take a look around the market place for a used CaseLabs, but i am leaning toward getting the 900D since i wont do much, if any, mods/customization. It might even be a waste spending that much on a CaseLabs with what i'm going for.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

900D stock is not that great, if you know how to mod it can be a really good case IMHO.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> 900D stock is not that great, if you know how to mod it can be a really good case IMHO.


I own both the 900D and a SMA8...

The 900D is pretty good for the price and I think many people tend to forget this.

I'm currently building up my SMA8 and while it does have advantages in build quality, flexibility etc - It does turn out to be a much more expensive option especially down here in Australia, when adding a few extra bits and pieces to make it workable.

A couple of things I really like about the 900D are that it has a good fan filtering system in place and I still think it looks better from a direct front perspective as compared to my SMA8.

If you replace the individual drive bays with a large brushed aluminum panel it would look pretty sleek IMO.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Hey all, new guy building first custom loop with a couple questions that I'm hoping you can answer for me. I posted this in the benchmark section but got no answers.

What's the best free benchmarks to really test out a system? I want to test this thing out while I have it together and air cooled so I can compare once I have the LC going.

And do you run with silver in your loop or not? I can't figure out if that's just a gimmick or not.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Hey all, new guy building first custom loop with a couple questions that I'm hoping you can answer for me. I posted this in the benchmark section but got no answers.
> 
> What's the best free benchmarks to really test out a system? I want to test this thing out while I have it together and air cooled so I can compare once I have the LC going.
> 
> And do you run with silver in your loop or not? I can't figure out if that's just a gimmick or not.


If you're looking for temps, IBT or x264 paired with something like Furmark or maybe OCCT is a solid idea. I normally run x264 with Furmark on its highest settings if I need to heat my room up quickly.

Edit: Silver is an antimicrobial and it's not a bad idea to toss a coil in your res if you're worried about any kind of growth in your loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Hey all, new guy building first custom loop with a couple questions that I'm hoping you can answer for me. I posted this in the benchmark section but got no answers.
> 
> What's the best free benchmarks to really test out a system? I want to test this thing out while I have it together and air cooled so I can compare once I have the LC going.
> 
> And do you run with silver in your loop or not? *I can't figure out if that's just a gimmick or not.*


Its no gimmick,it does work. However,its not as good as a dedicated biocide,silver takes time to build up in effectiveness,it will also eat your copper.

Why would anyone take a 900D over a Phanteks?


----------



## LinusBE

Hi guys, recently built my very first custom loop. It was a tight fit in my 450D with the gpu, res and front rad. I am however very happy with the result. Maybe in the future I will upgrade to a Phanteks Evolv ATX because I'm in love with that case and it's better for watercooling. Comments on my loop are always welcome! I'm using a 240 rad at the top and 280 at the front.


----------



## KiOWA

Hi all, maybe you can answer a potential issue I may be facing. (also if this is the wrong place to be posting this please let me know where I need to post it.)

So I finished by loop about a month ago. All running smoothly, until tonight, I noticed tiny white particles in the coolant. Also whitish circles in the res. Actually looks like mold.

*Here is some images for you all to see:*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








*Overall loop*




Coolant is distilled water with corrosion inhibitor and a silver kill coil. Loops been running for about a month.
Maybe one of you can confirm if this is a problem so that I can act accordingly.
Thanks.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quick question, and probably a long shot; Does anybody know the size/dimensions of the screws included in the "Hardwarelabs SR2 480MP" ? The ones that came in the packet were to short for my fans.

I'm back home for Christmas, so can't check them myself.


----------



## mohitgarg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Quick question, and probably a long shot; Does anybody know the size/dimensions of the screws included in the "Hardwarelabs SR2 480MP" ? The ones that came in the packet were to short for my fans.
> 
> I'm back home for Christmas, so can't check them myself.


http://www.hardwarelabs.com/sr2/images/sr2mp/diagrams/SR2_480_MP_Mounting_Diagram.pdf. M4 threads, fans are generally 25mm, add another 3mm, so 28mm should be solid. Included are M4x28mm.


----------



## mohitgarg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> Hi all, maybe you can answer a potential issue I may be facing. (also if this is the wrong place to be posting this please let me know where I need to post it.)
> 
> So I finished by loop about a month ago. All running smoothly, until tonight, I noticed tiny white particles in the coolant. Also whitish circles in the res. Actually looks like mold.
> 
> *Here is some images for you all to see:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Overall loop*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coolant is distilled water with corrosion inhibitor and a silver kill coil. Loops been running for about a month.
> Maybe one of you can confirm if this is a problem so that I can act accordingly.
> Thanks.


What's the green color from then?


----------



## KiOWA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mohitgarg*
> 
> What's the green color from then?


The corrosion inhibitor additive is green.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> The corrosion inhibitor additive is green.


What kind of corrosion inhibitor - Looks like Anti Freeze.


----------



## KiOWA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> What kind of corrosion inhibitor - Looks like Anti Freeze.


http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Tectaloy-Xtra-Cool-Radiator-Corrosion-Inhibitor-500mL.aspx?pid=1869#Recommendations


----------



## mohitgarg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Tectaloy-Xtra-Cool-Radiator-Corrosion-Inhibitor-500mL.aspx?pid=1869#Recommendations


Auto and PC aren't same, use something meant to be used with PC cooling.


----------



## KiOWA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mohitgarg*
> 
> Auto and PC aren't same, use something meant to be used with PC cooling.


Hmm numerous sources reccomend auto to work fine.Though surely this can't be the cause.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> Hmm numerous sources reccomend auto to work fine.Though surely this can't be the cause.


I think that stuff is eating your loop or creating pits in the plastic. I did not see anything for ingredients with what you added. Except for Ethylene glycol . Also looks like it is not cut by water but almost pure additive. Ethylene by the looks of things is an Alcohol. Alcohol eats the acrylic. I would clean the loop and try a different biocide. There are safer alternatives.


----------



## KiOWA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I think that stuff is eating your loop or creating pits in the plastic. I did not see anything for ingredients with what you added. Except for Ethylene glycol . Also looks like it is not cut by water but almost pure additive. Ethylene by the looks of things is an Alcohol. Alcohol eats the plastic. I would clean the loop and try a different biocide. There are safer alternatives.


Thanks for the response.

I put about 25ml of Ethylene glycol in the loop. Loop took about 1ltr of water to fill. It's not 100% Ethylene glycol.
There seems to be no sign of these "pits" in any of the tubing. Maybe the res is made of different plastic.


----------



## jmikeh

Simple. Clean. Stunning.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> Thanks for the response.
> 
> I put about 25ml of Ethylene glycol in the loop. Loop took about 1ltr of water to fill. It's not 100% Ethylene glycol.
> There seems to be no sign of these "pits" in any of the tubing. Maybe the res is made of different plastic.


The res is Acrylic . If you want and I am not a pro with antifreeze - distilled mixing . I use distilled and biocide . I believe the additive you used may have more then regular antifreeze and that's where the problem is coming in.


----------



## KiOWA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> The res is Acrylic . If you want and I am not a pro with antifreeze - distilled mixing . I use distilled and biocide . I believe the additive you used may have more then regular antifreeze and that's where the problem is coming in.


Thanks again.
Hmm the tubing is acrylic also, nevertheless, I'll drain the loop tomorrow, flush it and just run plain distilled with the kill coil.
I never liked the green colour to it, just figured it was common practice to run such an additive with distilled. Read heaps of articles prior to building my loop, but as with everything you can't trust something until you've tried it yourself.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mohitgarg*
> 
> http://www.hardwarelabs.com/sr2/images/sr2mp/diagrams/SR2_480_MP_Mounting_Diagram.pdf. M4 threads, fans are generally 25mm, add another 3mm, so 28mm should be solid. Included are M4x28mm.


Awesome, thank you so very much!


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Thanks for the responses guys.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> If you're looking for temps, IBT or x264 paired with something like Furmark or maybe OCCT is a solid idea. I normally run x264 with Furmark on its highest settings if I need to heat my room up quickly.
> 
> Edit: Silver is an antimicrobial and it's not a bad idea to toss a coil in your res if you're worried about any kind of growth in your loop.


I was looking for temps with all round system performance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its no gimmick,it does work. However,its not as good as a dedicated biocide,silver takes time to build up in effectiveness,it will also eat your copper.
> 
> Why would anyone take a 900D over a Phanteks?


This is for both you guys. I've found this tech nuke biocide a couple places and people say that works great. So which would be best, the biocide or the silver? What kind of copper erosion are we talking about with silver? Like replacing affected components every year, every couple years, 5 years?

I going to be running primochill fluid, all my blocks are nickle plated copper. Only open copper are rad fins.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caliking420*
> 
> I really appreciate the input bud, I'm going to take your advice and research more than i have. Also I'lll take a look around the market place for a used CaseLabs, but i am leaning toward getting the 900D since i wont do much, if any, mods/customization. It might even be a waste spending that much on a CaseLabs with what i'm going for.


Just a suggestion case labs sm8 is not far off from the 900d and you can find a used one I'm sure. I got my sm8 used for 350 with a 480mm rad. Another option is Phanteks cases (primo)


----------



## DarthBaggins

With an all copper loop I noticed zero issues w/ using the silver coil method. But if you have nickle plated blocks in the loop that's where you want to use a Biocide








so yes go w/ the PT Nuke or biocide of your choice


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caliking420*
> 
> Well to be honest $500+ for a case seems a little over board. And ill keep the XE mind when I get everything figured out, Its obliviously the better choice . And the reason i put the terminal in there is because i really like the way they look.
> Well after a few weeks i wont have the money to do this, so I'm trying to get this done in one order. And i would rather buy the parts new, not that there is anything wrong with used i just have my preferences. And i choose the 900D over a case labs for that reason, im not going do do heavy modding. and thought the size would be good for a dual 480 rad set up.


Understood, and I cant blame ya...$500+ is a lot for a case. I was just really disappointed with the 900D in terms of their radiator support, and for being such a big case, I was really expecting better support. @DarthBaggins was on point with the marketplace idea...I got both my mercury S3 and my S5 on the marketplace for $200 and $300 fully loaded respectively... I doubt that youll find an SMA8 on there though lol

You'll be fine with a 900D...I just didnt want you to get buyer's remorse, but it does seem you are already well aware of the limitations of the case. Good luck with your build, and I look forward to the build log!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> How is the 900d a wast of money? It is half the cost of a SMA8 and can hold 1440mm of rad easily. If you want the rad space and don't want to drop 500+ on a caselabs I highly recommend it. Now I will say corsair disappointed me on the some of the build quality when I compare it to my 800D but it is still a solid watercooling case.
> 
> I dont think it's an entire waste, but for watercooling, there's much better options. 900D tries to do a lot of things, but doesnt do anything particularly well...Its too flimsy when it comes to doing serious watercooling. I have advocated buying the most rigid and study case possible because all told, you're putting almost 2K to 3K or more into the build, a weight that can be up to 100lbs and you're building into a foundation made of thin riveted steel and plastic versus thicker sheets of screwed in aluminum. Its worth investing a couple hundred more.
> 
> Even if you dont get a watercooling case, there's better options to the 900D. The 750D is a good choice for watercooling, but ive heard really good things about the Phanteks Enthoo. The 900D has a gaping hole in the center that really isnt supported by much. If they even had a midplate alone it would have been more rigid. You cant look at the case as great because it is built for watercooling, because if that was the case, every case is built for watercooling. It simply does not offer the support that watercooling cases typically require, especially larger cases that hold more weight.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Thanks for the responses guys.
> I was looking for temps with all round system performance.
> This is for both you guys. I've found this tech nuke biocide a couple places and people say that works great. So which would be best, the biocide or the silver? What kind of copper erosion are we talking about with silver? Like replacing affected components every year, every couple years, 5 years?
> 
> I going to be running primochill fluid, all my blocks are nickle plated copper. Only open copper are rad fins.


I've had really good luck with distilled plus *PrimoChill Liquid Utopia*. You only need about a tsp for each liter of distilled. Its a biocide and anticorrosive. Like B NEG said, silver can have a bad reaction with other metals in your loop, that's why I don't use killcoils...just in case.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I've had really good luck with distilled plus *PrimoChill Liquid Utopia*. You only need about a tsp for each liter of distilled. Its a biocide and anticorrosive. Like B NEG said, silver can have a bad reaction with other metals in your loop, that's why I don't use killcoils...just in case.


Well sounds like a plan then, thanks for the info.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Thanks for the responses guys.
> I was looking for temps with all round system performance.
> This is for both you guys. I've found this tech nuke biocide a couple places and people say that works great. So which would be best, the biocide or the silver? What kind of copper erosion are we talking about with silver? Like replacing affected components every year, every couple years, 5 years?
> 
> I going to be running primochill fluid, a*ll my blocks are nickle plated copper.* Only open copper are rad fins.


No silver then,unless the plating is thick and well applied...which it wont be for watercooling blocks.

In all likeliness,you would never actually have to replace blocks from erosion but you could never sell them on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I've had really good luck with distilled plus *PrimoChill Liquid Utopia*. You only need about a tsp for each liter of distilled. Its a biocide and anticorrosive. Like B NEG said, silver can have a bad reaction with other metals in your loop, that's why I don't use killcoils...just in case.


Utopia? Recommended? Who by?

Sounds like a Jayz2pence thing.....no one recommends Utopia as it doesnt work,I had algae very quickly the 2 times I used it,nearly 4 years a go........


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No silver then,unless the plating is thick and well applied...which it wont be for watercooling blocks.
> 
> In all likeliness,you would never actually have to replace blocks from erosion but you could never sell them on.
> Utopia? Recommended? Who by?
> 
> Sounds like a Jayz2pence thing.....no one recommends Utopia as it doesnt work,I had algae very quickly the 2 times I used it,nearly 4 years a go........


I only said that I have had good luck with it. How quickly were you seeing algae? It's been in my system for >9 months with no problems...yet.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I only said that I have had good luck with it. How quickly were you seeing algae? It's been in my system for >9 months with no problems...yet.


Within 2 months. This was quite a while ago tho,changes may have been made.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've always seen mention of using PT Nuke or Mayhems Biocide Extreme as being the most recommended biocide additives


----------



## Dasandmancometh

I have primochill ice ready to go into my loops when i get them complete, which on their site says it has a biocide additive as well as a corrosive inhibitor. And adding other additives could cause and adverse effect.

Anyone have experience with running this fluid alone or silver?


----------



## DarthBaggins

If it states it already has those properties then you don't need to add anything else.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I've always seen mention of using PT Nuke or Mayhems Biocide Extreme as being the most recommended biocide additives


Second those ^^^^^^^^ . I have used both with no problems. Using the Mayhems in my system as I write this.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I've always seen mention of using PT Nuke or Mayhems Biocide Extreme as being the most recommended biocide additives


I got the Mayhems XT-1 Clear in my main rig. No growth and no problems, and its been trucking for almost a year now.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinnacle Fit*
> 
> I dont think it's an entire waste, but for watercooling, there's much better options. 900D tries to do a lot of things, but doesnt do anything particularly well...Its too flimsy when it comes to doing serious watercooling. I have advocated buying the most rigid and study case possible because all told, you're putting almost 2K to 3K or more into the build, a weight that can be up to 100lbs and you're building into a foundation made of thin riveted steel and plastic versus thicker sheets of screwed in aluminum. Its worth investing a couple hundred more.
> 
> Even if you dont get a watercooling case, there's better options to the 900D. The 750D is a good choice for watercooling, but ive heard really good things about the Phanteks Enthoo. The 900D has a gaping hole in the center that really isnt supported by much. If they even had a midplate alone it would have been more rigid. You cant look at the case as great because it is built for watercooling, because if that was the case, every case is built for watercooling. It simply does not offer the support that watercooling cases typically require, especially larger cases that hold more weight.


Yeah, 900D are not bad by the few times I seen one in person, but they do feel a little flimsy compared to by heavy arse Haf X.







You sure don't want to try moving my main rig when it is full of water. Thing almost took 2 gallon jugs, and I am still not done with modding. Need to get around and smack that 915F to its bottom and put two more 360 radiators in there.


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## Tdbeisn554

Hi guys
Any recommendation for coolants?
I will be using PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing, but I really don't know what fluid to use. I would prefer to use a red kind of fluid.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's one great looking 904, well done.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That's one great looking 904, well done.


Thanks!!!


















I will post higher resolution photos soon, that was taken with my phone and not to worried just yet because it still needs a little work.


----------



## jeryko87

A bucket full of work later... Here you have my first attempt at watercooling.
Feedback welcome







.


----------



## rsvette12

Looking good - very similar to what I am building - well done


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No silver then,unless the plating is thick and well applied...which it wont be for watercooling blocks.
> 
> In all likeliness,you would never actually have to replace blocks from erosion but you could never sell them on.
> Utopia? Recommended? Who by?
> 
> Sounds like a Jayz2pence thing.....no one recommends Utopia as it doesnt work,I had algae very quickly the 2 times I used it,nearly 4 years a go........


I've had good results with it over the last 4 years of use. I'm hesitant to try anything new its been so good. Its very popular in the Australian community still with many people swearing by it.
One of its advantages may be its relative low cost here which encourages more frequent fluid changes compared to other additives or coolants.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> *I've had good results with it over the last 4 years of use. I'm hesitant to try anything new its been so good.* Its very popular in the Australian community still with many people swearing by it.
> One of its advantages may be its relative low cost here which encourages more frequent fluid changes compared to other additives or coolants.


Serious?

Your experience is more recent than mine,thanks for the share fella.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> Thanks for the response.
> 
> I put about 25ml of Ethylene glycol in the loop. Loop took about 1ltr of water to fill. It's not 100% Ethylene glycol.
> There seems to be no sign of these "pits" in any of the tubing. Maybe the res is made of different plastic.


You in 'Straya mate ?? Supacheap gave it away ...

I use a 50/50 mix of Nulon green coolant ........ green for copper and red for aluminum .

But my temps in my 290 loop rarely sees any more than 42c under load without chiller or A/C


----------



## KiOWA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You in 'Straya mate ?? Supacheap gave it away ...
> 
> I use a 50/50 mix of Nulon green coolant ........ green for copper and red for aluminum .
> 
> But my temps in my 290 loop rarely sees any more than 42c under load without chiller or A/C


XD yeah mate. I think I'm done with additives. Just running plain distilled with coil now. Time will tell what happens.

That's actually awesome temps considering it's freaking hot in this country at the moment. Even for myself in Tassie under load CPU gets to 50c on stress test with 6700k with 2 970's in the loop.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> XD yeah mate. I think I'm done with additives. Just running plain distilled with coil now. Time will tell what happens.
> 
> That's actually awesome temps considering it's freaking hot in this country at the moment. Even for myself in Tassie under load CPU gets to 50c on stress test with 6700k with 2 970's in the loop.


Gidday Tasweigen









I have no problem with my 50/50 Nulon coolant 5.5ltrs in gpu res and 1.5 ltrs in CPU loop nice and clean ........



But I run 2 chillers so when the HC 1000 is on my full load gpu temps are 30c or less with 16c water temp with a bit of a/c on the rads to keep the chiller off as long as possible


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> Thanks again.
> Hmm the tubing is acrylic also, nevertheless, I'll drain the loop tomorrow, flush it and just run plain distilled with the kill coil.
> I never liked the green colour to it, just figured it was common practice to run such an additive with distilled. Read heaps of articles prior to building my loop, but as with everything you can't trust something until you've tried it yourself.


The additive you used would be unlikely to have caused your res issue.

Quite a few people in Aus have used the same additive in much higher concentrations for years with no noted problems with acrylic parts.

BTW - Ethelyne Glycol is generally quite safe for true acrylics.

If you opt for just plain distilled etc - Just keep an eye on corrosion ie maintain reasonably regular water changes as the distilled water is no longer distilled after a few days/weeks running in a system.


----------



## KiOWA

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Gidday Tasweigen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no problem with my 50/50 Nulon coolant 5.5ltrs in gpu res and 1.5 ltrs in CPU loop nice and clean ........
> 
> 
> 
> But I run 2 chillers so when the HC 1000 is on my full load gpu temps are 30c or less with 16c water temp with a bit of a/c on the rads to keep the chiller off as long as possible






G'day *insert commonly known Queenslander term* (pineapple people?)
Holy balls thats one hell of a setup. Only way to get decent temps in this weather I guess









Good to know you're getting decent lifespan out of your coolant. Mine was in there for less than 4 weeks and I started getting that residue in the res.
I wasnt a fan of the green colour but figured it was normal to have come kind of inhibitor additive. But ill try my luck without it.

Clear water looks good.


----------



## KiOWA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> The additive you used would be unlikely to have caused your res issue.
> 
> Quite a few people in Aus have used the same additive in much higher concentrations for years with no noted problems with acrylic parts.
> 
> BTW - Ethelyne Glycol is generally quite safe for true acrylics.
> 
> If you opt for just plain distilled etc - Just keep an eye on corrosion ie maintain reasonably regular water changes as the distilled water is no longer distilled after a few days/weeks running in a system.


I understand about distilled picking up ions after time. I'm willing to flush and re-fill every month if I need to.
I wasnt 100% sold on the inhibitor being the cause either. I believe it was growth of some sort but still not 100%. I saw somewhere (possibly in this thread) that silver coils take time to become effective? I could just change out or even add in biocide to be sure.
At least I got to test draining the loop. Works a treat. Plus I perfer the clear coolant colour as opposed to green.

Thanks for your thoughts


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> 
> G'day *insert commonly known Queenslander term* (pineapple people?)
> Holy balls thats one hell of a setup. Only way to get decent temps in this weather I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know you're getting decent lifespan out of your coolant. Mine was in there for less than 4 weeks and I started getting that residue in the res.
> I wasnt a fan of the green colour but figured it was normal to have come kind of inhibitor additive. But ill try my luck without it.
> 
> Clear water looks good.


Yeah man that's the snitz , very clean









Brisvegan person will do


----------



## rolldog

Quick question, I'm working on a build right now, and I bought 2 EK nickel + plexi GPU waterblocks and want to illuminate the blocks with the 3mm holes on the bottom of the blocks for LEDs. What's a good way to keep the LEDs from falling out the bottom of the block? I was thinking about using some of the tape that comes with temp sensor probes, but I don't have any nor do I know where to buy only the tape. I don't want to glue them in because I'm going to try a couple different colors of LEDs to find out which ones look best. Anyone have any suggestions? If the small temp sensor tape would work, anyone know where I could buy only the tape or is there some kind of tape I could buy at a hardware store and just cut it to size? I'd rather not use small pieces of electrical tape or duct tape since it leaves so much residue when removing it.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quick question, I'm working on a build right now, and I bought 2 EK nickel + plexi GPU waterblocks and want to illuminate the blocks with the 3mm holes on the bottom of the blocks for LEDs. What's a good way to keep the LEDs from falling out the bottom of the block? I was thinking about using some of the tape that comes with temp sensor probes, but I don't have any nor do I know where to buy only the tape. I don't want to glue them in because I'm going to try a couple different colors of LEDs to find out which ones look best. Anyone have any suggestions? If the small temp sensor tape would work, anyone know where I could buy only the tape or is there some kind of tape I could buy at a hardware store and just cut it to size? I'd rather not use small pieces of electrical tape or duct tape since it leaves so much residue when removing it.


Put a dab of silicon in it. Put the LED in and let it dry. Once the silicon is dry you will have a tight holding insert for the LED and will still be removable.


----------



## funfordcobra

What's a good delta t for a single loop 5820k and two 980tis?

My ambient is 20c , idle 25c, load 40c on the gpus. I don't have a sensor so is there a good way to make an educated guess?


----------



## fast_fate

Got my shizzizle together after the Frankenstein loop that I posted a few weeks ago of the mobo plumbing.
To be fair though, that was a mock up to see what fittings would need to be ordered.
11 blocks ain't a walk in the park to plumb up and keep some sense of order, but pretty happy with this, with just a couple of tweaks still to make









Now I want a couple of the HK4 CPU blocks to really complete the update - we'll see what the budget says












Spoiler: FrankenMock











Spoiler: and down memory lane this is how it used to look


----------



## VSG

Looks great, F_F.

P.S. How's the tubing test coming along?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

anyone see this stuff? ek is doing interes ting stuff I had no idea about https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-i750-ssd
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks great, F_F.
> 
> P.S. How's the tubing test coming along?


Cheers








Next few days will be due for the 2nd monthly update.
With New Years and all - lets say a week and the update will be up.

Depending on the the internal condition - we may call it a day on that test and re-start with NON Glycol based coolant so I can make real comments about the LRT which I can't atm because LRT it is not recommended for use with the glycol based XT-1 that is running in the test rig atm


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next few days will be due for the 2nd monthly update.
> With New Years and all - lets say a week and the update will be up.
> 
> Depending on the the internal condition - we may call it a day on that test and re-start with NON Glycol based coolant so I can make real comments about the LRT which I can't atm because LRT it is not recommended for use with the glycol based XT-1 that is running in the test rig atm


I like the way the tubing winds around the mobo, looks like some crazy scientist machine.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next few days will be due for the 2nd monthly update.
> With New Years and all - lets say a week and the update will be up.
> 
> Depending on the the internal condition - we may call it a day on that test and re-start with NON Glycol based coolant so I can make real comments about the LRT which I can't atm because LRT it is not recommended for use with the glycol based XT-1 that is running in the test rig atm


Nice.. I am really looking forward to this. I didn't want to test out tubing lol.

Oh btw you should totally ask/demand Stren to send you some Belgian goodies for all this work.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Got my shizzizle together after the Frankenstein loop that I posted a few weeks ago of the mobo plumbing.
> To be fair though, that was a mock up to see what fittings would need to be ordered.
> 11 blocks ain't a walk in the park to plumb up and keep some sense of order, but pretty happy with this, with just a couple of tweaks still to make
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want a couple of the HK4 CPU blocks to really complete the update - we'll see what the budget says
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FrankenMock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: and down memory lane this is how it used to look


Wow, I hope mine looks that good when I'm done.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> XD yeah mate. I think I'm done with additives. Just running plain distilled with coil now. Time will tell what happens.
> 
> That's actually awesome temps considering it's freaking hot in this country at the moment. Even for myself in Tassie under load CPU gets to 50c on stress test with 6700k with 2 970's in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Gidday Tasweigen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no problem with my 50/50 Nulon coolant 5.5ltrs in gpu res and 1.5 ltrs in CPU loop nice and clean ........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I run 2 chillers so when the HC 1000 is on my full load gpu temps are 30c or less with 16c water temp with a bit of a/c on the rads to keep the chiller off as long as possible
Click to expand...











My OCD alarms are all in overdrive when I even look a this pic.I'm sure there is a system in there somewheres.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FrankenMock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: and down memory lane this is how it used to look


Nice barb and tube layout. Really like it.







Though interesting color choice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> anyone see this stuff? ek is doing interes ting stuff I had no idea about https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-i750-ssd
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump


Hmmm, interesting.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Nice barb and tube layout. Really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though interesting color choice.
> Hmmm, interesting.


Yeah I used pink in a build I just finshed and liked it, so thought I'ld give it another run


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yeah I used pink in a build I just finshed and liked it, so thought I'ld give it another run


You big guys on the block are just simply geniuses.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> just a couple of tweaks still to make
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FrankenMock


All you need now is a set of chrome 'Newtons Balls' somewhere on FrankenMock and it will be just sublime...


----------



## AresTheGod

Hi guys, already asked few questions about my project to waatercool my PC and I receive all the pieces of my PC ( had some issues but nvm ) and I have one last question, how much tube should I take ( I wanna take acrylic tube) ? I have got 1 GPU, my case is a CL SM8, got 2 rads (one 480 and one 360), 1 pump, 1 reservoir and I only put under water the CPU and the GPU. 3x 1000mm? Or more?
Thanks !


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Is it just me, or are the new motherboards that are coming out kind of... well... Ugly?


Spoiler: Formula







All I use are Asus motherboards... and quite frankly, haven't seen one that the colour scheme suits what I need. They seem so blocky.

The Rampage was a massive board, but still had some good looks to it.

TCO


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is it just me, or are the new motherboards that are coming out kind of... well... Ugly?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Formula
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I use are Asus motherboards... and quite frankly, haven't seen one that the colour scheme suits what I need. They seem so blocky.
> 
> The Rampage was a massive board, but still had some good looks to it.
> 
> TCO


They are tacky, in my opinion. Apparently either a lot of people actually want this, or they think a lot of people actually want this. Probably it's true since all the companies are doing it.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is it just me, or are the new motherboards that are coming out kind of... well... Ugly?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Formula
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I use are Asus motherboards... and quite frankly, haven't seen one that the colour scheme suits what I need. They seem so blocky.
> 
> The Rampage was a massive board, but still had some good looks to it.
> 
> TCO


What about the subdued M8E?

It's nice looking.

remove the red to white, it would look pretty good.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4676_zpstpt4xghu.jpg.html


----------



## tatmMRKIV

or red to silver.

I like asrock ocf lineup.x99 isnt that good buut z170 is looking much better now they brought the black back into the mix

those asus extreme boards are too much for me to pay retail for, I got a rve for 350 on an open box deal and never even used it. traded it though and it was great for that
asus rma is crap for the $$$$
they need to lower their prices to compete with every other manufacturer... unfortunately they dont have to since there are so many fanboys willing to pay more for less

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Nice barb and tube layout. Really like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though interesting color choice.
> Hmmm, interesting.


isnt it?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is it just me, or are the new motherboards that are coming out kind of... well... Ugly?


I think they are getting carried away with all the grooves and cutouts on the cover plate...trying to make it stylish???

Only redeeming feature is that it looks as if you can change all the red highlights to another colour as they are all LED backlit. Could be handy when you don't want a RED ROG themed layout.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> or red to silver.
> 
> I like asrock ocf lineup.x99 isnt that good buut z170 is looking much better now they brought the black back into the mix
> 
> those asus extreme boards are too much for me to pay retail for, I got a rve for 350 on an open box deal and never even used it. traded it though and it was great for that
> asus rma is crap for the $$$$
> they need to lower their prices to compete with every other manufacturer... unfortunately they dont have to since there are so many fanboys willing to pay more for less
> isnt it?


I buy an Asus Extreme board and keep it for 36months with no others as my only board, does that make me a sucker?

Got the M5E in 2012, still purring along as my 2ndary rig, never a single issue, so had no question picking up the M8E.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far I have loved my RVE board, also did the smart things and snagged it on Open Box from MicroCenter and got the extended warranty coverage. Also Asus still warranties the board even if you remove their heat sinks to put on a fullcover/monoblock


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is it just me, or are the new motherboards that are coming out kind of... well... Ugly?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Formula
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I use are Asus motherboards... and quite frankly, haven't seen one that the colour scheme suits what I need. They seem so blocky.
> 
> The Rampage was a massive board, but still had some good looks to it.
> 
> TCO


my current build (did it for Asus for CES) have this board and believe me the all black with RGB led for accent is really nice

they are real RGB not 3 or 4 colors


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is it just me, or are the new motherboards that are coming out kind of... well... Ugly?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Formula
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I use are Asus motherboards... and quite frankly, haven't seen one that the colour scheme suits what I need. They seem so blocky.
> 
> The Rampage was a massive board, but still had some good looks to it.
> 
> TCO


I don't understand that at all sorry. It took too long to get boards looking as great as they do now. Would you prefer going back to boards of only a very few years ago that looked like they had been painted in a pre-school colouring in competition, primary colours and pastels dripping off everything, having to buy certain boards or brands to get a colour that would even remotely match your other components.

The Sabertooths were the beginning of decent boards and ROG have finally given us black boards that will look good with anything. The new Formula is easily the best looking board I have ever seen and one will be coming my way when they are available. Full RGB LED highlights will make any theme or colour scheme you like a doddle. The standard EK block is just icing on the cake.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So far I have loved my RVE board, also did the smart things and snagged it on Open Box from MicroCenter and got the extended warranty coverage. Also Asus still warranties the board even if you remove their heat sinks to put on a fullcover/monoblock


That board is epic.









But, after three years of black and red I'm trying to move away from any red except the ROG Start button which is still totally cool.

Go ROG, white and gray painting all red accents white









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4622_zpsjj5rhqro.jpg.html


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I think they are getting carried away with all the grooves and cutouts on the cover plate...trying to make it stylish???
> 
> Only redeeming feature is that it looks as if you can change all the red highlights to another colour as they are all LED backlit. Could be handy when you don't want a RED ROG themed layout.


tthat stuff panders to gamers I guess
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I buy an Asus Extreme board and keep it for 36months with no others as my only board, does that make me a sucker?
> 
> Got the M5E in 2012, still purring along as my 2ndary rig, never a single issue, so had no question picking up the M8E.


did I say anything about people buying asus boards being a sucker? I just said for me, they aren't the best option.

I bought a z87m OCF and still have it running in my parents rig. every day for hours straight.

z97 ocf.. benched with it and everything froze it.. still use it up till last month but just cuz I dont need it with so many z170 systems lying around

asus just for me I have never got a performance difference between them and asrock, and asrock is half the price.

also had to rma my rive 2-3 times and it was never completely fixed..


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> tthat stuff panders to gamers I guess
> did I say anything about people buying asus boards being a sucker? I just said for me, they aren't the best option.
> 
> I bought a z87m OCF and still have it running in my parents rig. every day for hours straight.
> 
> z97 ocf.. benched with it and everything froze it.. still use it up till last month but just cuz I dont need it with so many z170 systems lying around
> 
> asus just for me I have never got a performance difference between them and asrock, and asrock is half the price.
> 
> also had to rma my rive 2-3 times and it was never completely fixed..


Nah man, you're cool, just thought I should mention longevity and cost of purchase over time.

If you buy the really good stuff and keep it forever, it pays dividends.

I can't afford to buy a new board every new platform launch, so try to get something nice that will last.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> ROG have finally given us black boards that will look good with anything.


Yep black PCBs are sooo much better...

Wasn't all that long ago that 'ye olde' bromide/coppery yellow mobo PCBs were the norm....









I'll prob be grabbing a Formula when they land here in Aus.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yep black PCBs are sooo much better...
> 
> Wasn't all that long ago that 'ye olde' bromide/coppery yellow mobo PCBs were the norm....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll prob be grabbing a Formula when they land here in Aus.


Maximus Formula 8s are way too sexy for a work rig.









I would be distracted.

Give me the boring M8E (with a monoblock) and a thick 120x38mm exhaust. (pic above)









.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Nah man, you're cool, just thought I should mention longevity and cost of purchase over time.
> 
> If you buy the really good stuff and keep it forever, it pays dividends.
> 
> I can't afford to buy a new board every new platform launch, so try to get something nice that will last.


my problem is that ASUS rmadowntime can take up to a month and if you get multiple issues like I did asnd a few other people I know did you could be without a board for 3 months in one year

also the good OCF boards have 3 year warranties(everyone I own. my z87m is 2years old still trucking just checked newegg got it november of 2013 no rmas.. where as I had 2 or more rmas on my rive and I sold that a year ago. ). longer than most of the competitors.

well just asrock at half the prices benches just as well for me and I have exttra money for processors or ram or something that will actually improve performance. or I could buy a second motherboard. which is what I have been doing. I have bought 2 motherboards everytime.
x99 was gigabyte soc champ, it wasnt as nice as the ASROCK X99M FATALITY 3.1


----------



## jon666

Z series board for your parents? Overclock it and maybe mention that...later. When it dies. Anyways, watercooled my sapphire 390 with the universal block from swiftech. Had to wait on replacement for my fancy clear swiftech block. New home depot tubing too. The old stuff turned white because of plastiser and all that. Loop took less water with only cpu, one gpu, and two 360 rads. GPU core temps are great, VRM's not so much. Will add the copper heatsinks later along with case fan later. Wire management would give you guys a heart attack, but I am liking the temps so far. I did have to use longer screws on my gpu, but I made it work. One of these days I might rewire my rad fans so it doesn't snag on anything when I move my PC. Bought a soldering iron to fix mistakes, so I am sure I can make new wires for the fans. I will probably have to replace the tubing as well. Any suggestions for plastiser free stuff that works with barb fittings?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Got my shizzizle together after the Frankenstein loop that I posted a few weeks ago of the mobo plumbing.
> To be fair though, that was a mock up to see what fittings would need to be ordered.
> 11 blocks ain't a walk in the park to plumb up and keep some sense of order, but pretty happy with this, with just a couple of tweaks still to make
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want a couple of the HK4 CPU blocks to really complete the update - we'll see what the budget says
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FrankenMock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: and down memory lane this is how it used to look


Seriously one of the coolest things I've ever seen on OCN

But I'm a sucker for multi-socket


----------



## B NEGATIVE

X99 WS-E,the only board right now which I lust for.....

New boards have gone too far with the plastic......


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i just bought an impact out of necessity. i like their design.

i kinda like some of the rog boards that plastic looks so anime


----------



## Gilles3000

The Z170-WS is a pretty great looking board too imo, unforunate that it doesnt feature the finned heatsinks of the X99 variant though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> They are tacky, in my opinion. Apparently either a lot of people actually want this, or they think a lot of people actually want this. *Probably it's true since all the companies are doing it*.


I understand the point.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I think they are getting carried away with all the *grooves and cutouts on the cover plate.*..trying to make it stylish???
> 
> Only redeeming feature is that it looks as if you can change all the red highlights to another colour as they are all LED backlit. Could be handy when you don't want a RED ROG themed layout.


This is actually not a bad thing, I guess painting the parts that the leds shine through to the colour you want could work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> my current build (did it for Asus for CES) have this board and believe me the all black with RGB led for accent is really nice
> 
> they are real RGB not 3 or 4 colors


Why did you remove all of your links for builds in your siggy??

I guess that I would need to see the motherboard in person to appreciate what it looks like?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand that at all sorry. It took too long to get boards looking as great as they do now. Would you prefer going back to boards of only a very few years ago that looked like they had been painted in a pre-school colouring in competition, primary colours and pastels dripping off everything, having to buy certain boards or brands to get a colour that would even remotely match your other components.
> 
> *The Sabertooths were the beginning of decent boards and ROG have finally given us black boards that will look good with anything. The new Formula is easily the best looking board I have ever seen and one will be coming my way when they are available. Full RGB LED highlights will make any theme or colour scheme you like a doddle.* The standard EK block is just icing on the cake.


You don't have to apologize, it was an open-ended question. I did not have the pleasure of building 5 years ago, so I do not know what the boards "used" to look like, But I understand they weren't much of an eye catcher. So I get where you are coming from.

I do like the plates they are putting on the top of the boards, Easily removable and able to paint or tweak as necessary to the creators liking.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> X99 WS-E,the only board right now which I lust for.....
> 
> New boards have gone *too far with the plastic*......


Exactly.

Appreciate all of the feedback gentlemen.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I am happy with just an IO cover,the rest......not so much...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am happy with just an IO cover,the rest......not so much...


Yeah totally, its not the add ons that make them great its the lack of whatever brand colour heatsinks and multi coloured pci slots as well as the lack of sky blue or green PCB.

The faceted angles on the Formula and other Asus boards maybe appears a little busy to some but I like it. It reminds me of current car styling that was started by BMW with its edge styling. Many hated it at first but it has influenced design for the last decade.

I will never miss having to choose certain RAM, brand or model of board just to not have hideous clashing. Nor will I miss rainbow PSU wiring everywhere or 80mm fans. I want to be completely free to choose the board, RAM etc that gives me the best features. Hopefully now we won't see every over priced 'gaming' rig have to be red and black themed.


----------



## sinnedone

I dont know man matched pcb colors should be a thing.











I think the red pcb builds had a certain charm to them as well back in the day.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I dont know man matched pcb colors should be a thing.


Couldn't agree more!!!


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I dont know man matched pcb colors should be a thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the red pcb builds had a certain charm to them as well back in the day.


Totally


----------



## svtfmook

My kid knocked my computer over and broke a barb off of my corsair h100i, so I picked up an L240 kit to get out of AIO water cooling. happy so far and will expand in the future. Short term plans are white tubing, adding a drain. longer term plans will be to add a gpu block once I get around to upgrading out of my 560ti and acrylic runs


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfmook*
> 
> My kid knocked my computer over and broke a barb off of my corsair h100i, so I picked up an L240 kit to get out of AIO water cooling. happy so far and will expand in the future. Short term plans are white tubing, adding a drain. longer term plans will be to add a gpu block once I get around to upgrading out of my 560ti and acrylic runs


Looking good.








Is it EK UV Blue coolant?


----------



## svtfmook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Looking good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it EK UV Blue coolant?


thanks, no, that's primochill uv blue dye.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfmook*
> 
> thanks, no, that's primochill uv blue dye.


Looks awesome. very clean rig! Corsair case?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfmook*
> 
> My kid knocked my computer over and broke a barb off of my corsair h100i, so I picked up an L240 kit to get out of AIO water cooling. happy so far and will expand in the future. Short term plans are white tubing, adding a drain. longer term plans will be to add a gpu block once I get around to upgrading out of my 560ti and acrylic runs


Nice looking build there. I was going to go with a kit but changed when i saw the new Monsoon Res and stand alone pump kit. Gene From Monsoon got me hooked. Now there is no way back BLEH!!!


----------



## svtfmook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Looks awesome. very clean rig! Corsair case?


that's an NZXT S340
I left my Carbide for this case, smaller footprint, still fits my hardware.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The Z170-WS is a pretty great looking board too imo, unforunate that it doesnt feature the finned heatsinks of the X99 variant though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mmmm, now that a nice looking board there. A metallic industrial water build would look nice with that board. Especially brush metal style case.


----------



## Andreoid

this photo was too too much work for just be shown in our tinker-thread

Anfi-tec CPU03 "drei" with smoke grey cover....

And for UV-lovers we have milled a few UV-active cover!
realy difficult to photograph


follow us on FB: https://www.facebook.com/Anfitec/


----------



## alltheGHz

Personally I hate the motherboard "shields", seeing all the transistors, capacitors, and the PCB is kinda cool. I paid a ton of money for my computer parts,I don't want that to be covered by some plastic cover. The whole RGB motherboard thing is bs, get a nicer motherboard and buy some high quality leds


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> this photo was too too much work for just be shown in our tinker-thread
> 
> Anfi-tec CPU03 "drei" with smoke grey cover....
> 
> And for UV-lovers we have milled a few UV-active cover!
> realy difficult to photograph
> 
> 
> follow us on FB: https://www.facebook.com/Anfitec/


Did you have to rip off Watercools HK4 mount tho?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Personally I hate the motherboard "shields", seeing all the transistors, capacitors, and the PCB is kinda cool. I paid a ton of money for my computer parts,I don't want that to be covered by some plastic cover. The whole RGB motherboard thing is bs, get a nicer motherboard and buy some high quality leds


Agree completely, I love seeing the electronics, that's why I love E-ATX boards so much more electronics and less bare chassis wall.

But covering the ugly rear I/O jacks is a positive move forward in my humble opinion.

And the M8E accomplishes both those aesthetics very well indeed.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4676_zpstpt4xghu.jpg.html


----------



## maybach123

can anyone confirm this on this forum will alpha cool 13mm brass hard tubing work with swiftech 1/2 inch hard fittings


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Agree completely, I love seeing the electronics, that's why I love E-ATX boards so much more electronics and less bare chassis wall.
> 
> But covering the ugly rear I/O jacks is a positive move forward in my humble opinion.
> 
> And the M8E accomplishes both those aesthetics very well indeed.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4676_zpstpt4xghu.jpg.html


I think the plastic covers are like plastic covers grandma put on her couch BLEH!!!!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> can anyone confirm this on this forum will alpha cool 13mm brass hard tubing work with swiftech 1/2 inch hard fittings


Swiftech doesn't even have hard line fittings though? Either way, 1/2" OD hard line fittings won't securely fit 13mm OD hardline tubing.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech doesn't even have hard line fittings though? Either way, 1/2" OD hard line fittings won't securely fit 13mm OD hardline tubing.


sorry primochill got confused for some reason. so what 13mm hard line fittings are out there besides alpha cool because i want to use alpha cool black nickel tubing but their fittings are only in nickel and matte black so if their is a brand that has black nickel fittings in 13mm please tell because i have looked everywhere


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> can anyone confirm this on this forum will alpha cool 13mm brass hard tubing work with swiftech 1/2 inch hard fittings


We have already had this discussion on LTT I believe......


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We have already had this discussion on LTT I believe......


i know but you never posted the link to one of the pages and i always confirm with other people. so if anyone makes 13mm besides alpha cool it would be helpful


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> i know but you never posted the link to one of the pages and i always confirm with other people.


There is a lot of posts to work thru......

And good work,never trust anything at face value,always back up with someone else.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Agree completely, I love seeing the electronics, that's why I love E-ATX boards so much more electronics and less bare chassis wall.
> 
> But covering the ugly rear I/O jacks is a positive move forward in my humble opinion.
> 
> And the M8E accomplishes both those aesthetics very well indeed.


Imo, Asus did a way better job at that with the RIVE Black Edition, the M8E just looks too busy with all that plastic on there.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a lot of posts to work thru......
> 
> And good work,never trust anything at face value,always back up with someone else.


so only alpha cool makes 13mm fittings?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yep black PCBs are sooo much better...
> 
> Wasn't all that long ago that 'ye olde' bromide/coppery yellow mobo PCBs were the norm....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll prob be grabbing a Formula when they land here in Aus.


It irks me the edges of the PCBs are left unfinished yellow/brown. I take a sharpie to my GPUs usually.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Imo, Asus did a way better job at that with the RIVE Black Edition, the M8E just looks too busy with all that plastic on there.


thats one of the reasons i bought the rive black edition is because it was pretty (mind you not the only reason)


----------



## maybach123

i have another question for you guys why is 13/10mm and 3/8 by 1/2 used interchangeably but one cant be use with another i go on a uk site and the same fittings that say 13/10 say 3/8 by 1/2 on a us site. it just does not make sense


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> or red to silver.
> 
> I like asrock ocf lineup.x99 isnt that good buut z170 is looking much better now they brought the black back into the mix
> 
> those asus extreme boards are too much for me to pay retail for, I got a rve for 350 on an open box deal and never even used it. traded it though and it was great for that
> asus rma is crap for the $$$$
> they need to lower their prices to compete with every other manufacturer... unfortunately they dont have to since there are so many fanboys willing to pay more for less
> isnt it?
> 
> 
> 
> I buy an Asus Extreme board and keep it for 36months with no others as my only board, does that make me a sucker?
> 
> Got the M5E in 2012, still purring along as my 2ndary rig, never a single issue, so had no question picking up the M8E.
Click to expand...

I have never had a single issue with ASUS RMA "crap". I've had a Formula and an Extreme. Formula was easy peasy with the cross swap RMA service(doubtful he ever used that) and have RMA'ed more than my fair share of ASUS over the last 20 years. I have more than enough experience in this area. So when I say I've never had a single issue with their RMA service, that's a significant statement.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Imo, Asus did a way better job at that with the RIVE Black Edition, the M8E just looks too busy with all that plastic on there.


Talking about one of these.



Can't wait to switch my folder to this and do some water cool goodness.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Do you guys think that if I had a dual loop, one loop being acrylic and the other loop being polished tubing (Silver) that it would look righteous?

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Do you guys think that if I had a dual loop, one loop being acrylic and the other loop being polished tubing (Silver) that it would look righteous?
> 
> TCO


Possibly, try it out and see. Balance will be key though.


----------



## wermad

Some slow progress









edit: took a slightly better pic:


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some slow progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: took a slightly better pic:


Sometimes slow is better.Looks good thoe.


----------



## maybach123

all ask again i want to know the mechanics of why i cant use 1/2 fittings with 13mm tubing because 13mm is .51 of an inch? can i try shaving down the fitting if its a little to big?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> all ask again i want to know the mechanics of why i cant use 1/2 fittings with 13mm tubing because 13mm is .51 of an inch? can i try shaving down the fitting if its a little to big?


Because 13mm/.51" is the outer diameter of the tubing, and has very little direct relationship to barb size. 10mm is the inner diameter and it should match the barb size.

Edit: At least that's the question I gathered from your original post on the subject a few posts back.

It makes more sense of you rearrange your numbers. So 10/13mm and 3/8-1/2 instead of 13/10mm and 3/8-1/2 gear is completely interchangeable with 10/13mm gear afaik.

Edit 2: Took out stuff pertaining to soft tubing.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Because 13mm/.51" is the outer diameter of the tubing, and has very little direct relationship to barb size. 10mm is the inner diameter and it should match the barb size. There's no reason you _can't_ use 13mm tube on 1/2" barbs, although it'd take some serious elbow grease to get the tubing over the barb. I can't say I've never done it.
> 
> Edit: at least that's what u gathered from your original question a couple posts back.
> 
> It makes more sense of you rearrange your numbers. So 10/13mm and 3/8-1/2 instead of 13/10mm and 3/8-1/2 gear is completely interchangeable with 10/13mm gear afaik.


He's talking about hard tubing


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> He's talking about hard tubing


That doesn't change most of what I said, does it?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> That doesn't change most of what I said, does it?


13mm over 1/2" barbs doesn't apply to his question.

Edit.. Lol You got me questioning myself now.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> 13mm over 1/2" barbs doesn't apply to his question.


Just took that out because I realized that's what you were talking about. Left the stuff about general sizing, though


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Because 13mm/.51" is the outer diameter of the tubing, and has very little direct relationship to barb size. 10mm is the inner diameter and it should match the barb size.
> 
> Edit: At least that's the question I gathered from your original post on the subject a few posts back.
> 
> It makes more sense of you rearrange your numbers. So 10/13mm and 3/8-1/2 instead of 13/10mm and 3/8-1/2 gear is completely interchangeable with 10/13mm gear afaik.
> 
> Edit 2: Took out stuff pertaining to soft tubing.


The alpha cool tubing is listed as 13/10mm (which I know doesn't make sense if your used to inches as we list the inner diameter first) accept people have been saying I can't mix metric tubing 10/13mm let's say with imperial fittings 3/8 by 1/2 that what I want an explanation on


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> The alpha cool tubing is listed as 13/10mm (which I know doesn't make sense if your used to inches as we list the inner diameter first) accept people have been saying I can't mix metric tubing 10/13mm let's say with imperial fittings 3/8 by 1/2 that what I want an explanation on


Typically with hard tubing your only concern is outer diameter which is 13mm. Now if a fitting is 1/2" its 12.6 or whatever it is, so your tube will not physically fit into the fitting.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Do you guys think that if I had a dual loop, one loop being acrylic and the other loop being polished tubing (Silver) that it would look righteous?
> 
> TCO


You'd definitely have to try it to see how it looks. were you thinking clear acrylic or colored?

Visualizing it in my head, I am to feel like the metal tubing would overshadow the acrylic


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Typically with hard tubing your only concern is outer diameter which is 13mm. Now if a fitting is 1/2" its 12.6 or whatever it is, so your tube will not physically fit into the fitting.


Are the tolerances really that low also it might end up working out because the o ring is the part that seals it so I could file or drill out the extra .03mm this is how much I want the fittings to match the tubing XD


----------



## Laine

Finished up the watercooled Gigabyte Brix a month or so ago. Everything metal is hand made, and the watercooling bits are customized to fit, old EK parts.

http://www.forbes.com/sites/antonyleather/2015/11/06/is-this-the-worlds-smallest-liquid-cooled-gaming-pc/


----------



## slowbro69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Do you guys think that if I had a dual loop, one loop being acrylic and the other loop being polished tubing (Silver) that it would look righteous?
> 
> TCO


I think that would be sexy. Just make sure its balanced and there is a good mix between the two. Im thinking white acrylic would look good?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*


Beautiful piece sir!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Finished up the watercooled Gigabyte Brix a month or so ago. Everything metal is hand made, and the watercooling bits are customized to fit, old EK parts.
> 
> http://www.forbes.com/sites/antonyleather/2015/11/06/is-this-the-worlds-smallest-liquid-cooled-gaming-pc/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


Looks really good.

After recent events,be careful with the external links.

I wanted.....



Until I found out that half the functionality is a paid extra....whats next AquaC,a season pass for DLC?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New tray for the 901 Celestial build.



















Res cover needs to be welded in yet.



















Integrated res and wiring cavity in there!


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*


Very nice


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New tray for the 901 Celestial build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res cover needs to be welded in yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Integrated res and wiring cavity in there!


Man oh man, finally another build up of anticipation! Things have been slow in the fully custom realm of water cooling as of late. BNeg is bringing the heat again!


----------



## rodaduck

getting close to being done with first water cooled PC , interior shots


----------



## rodaduck

nice


----------



## rodaduck

wish i had those skills !!! where can i buy them? hahahah


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Finished up the watercooled Gigabyte Brix a month or so ago. Everything metal is hand made, and the watercooling bits are customized to fit, old EK parts.
> 
> http://www.forbes.com/sites/antonyleather/2015/11/06/is-this-the-worlds-smallest-liquid-cooled-gaming-pc/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's an amazing little build.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New tray for the 901 Celestial build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res cover needs to be welded in yet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Integrated res and wiring cavity in there!


Looks amazing already.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> They work fine on rads. You can also use a gasket if you want without issue.
> 
> Just be aware that the e-loops are not all that suitable if you want to use them in a 'pull' config as they generate some turbulence related air flow noise when used this way. In push though they are excellent (I use them myself).
> 
> Phanteks also make a nice radiator fan which also uses a similar black/white colour scheme. Take a look at their PH-F120MP fans or their equivalent 140 sized model. Note however that they max out to 1600 rpm.


Hey Costas,

I fired up the new version of The Girl's Box last night with one of the 2.4Krpm eloops on the 120mm ST30 and I must say ... measuring with my hand (







) it seems to push a Lot of air! Honestly it felt like more air than my Vardars at 3000 coming out the other side of the ST30 in the front of Daedalic

For the RPM it's pretty quiet in push. And you're right, the fan gets very noisy with obstruction behind it, more so than the Vardar


----------



## Idef1x

Just got some light going. Still experimenting a bit


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New tray for the 901 Celestial build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res cover needs to be welded in yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Integrated res and wiring cavity in there!


Very nice indeed. Is that made with your new cnc machine?

Ive been toying with the idea of clear motherboard tray and built in res for my next buid, so I definitely want to keep an eye on how yours comes out.









Build log?


----------



## emsj86

So I want to go with a duel loop in the sm8. I have a 360 ek xe rad up front so putting it side by side would be tight. My idea is to mount both on the back of the front rad. Both will be bits power res. My question is what can I use to mount to the rad so than I can attach the res holders and pump. Also will ek res clip holders, hold the bp res?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Very nice indeed. Is that made with your new cnc machine?
> 
> Ive been toying with the idea of clear motherboard tray and built in res for my next buid, so I definitely want to keep an eye on how yours comes out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log?


Sadly not,im still truing the machine up and getting it accurate,a tedious process....

Log here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1586113/in-win-901-celestial/0_20


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Possibly, try it out and see. Balance will be key though.


I am with you on this one. I want some tubing showing fluid going through it, and others just the Block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You'd definitely have to try it to see how it looks. were you thinking clear acrylic or colored?
> 
> Visualizing it in my head, *I am to feel like the metal tubing would overshadow the acrylic*


This is the true fear of using both
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowbro69*
> 
> I think that would be sexy. Just make sure its balanced and there is a good mix between the two. Im thinking white acrylic would look good?


The Acrylic would be crystal clear Bitspower 12mm. White is out of the question. I will keep tossing the idea around. I honestly would love the chance of working with the Polished tubing to be able to say I have.

I could in turn just go with full polished tubing. But how would polished silver tubing look with white fittings?

TCO


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Acrylic would be crystal clear Bitspower 12mm. White is out of the question. I will keep tossing the idea around. I honestly would love the chance of working with the Polished tubing to be able to say I have.
> 
> TCO


What color will the coolant be? If it's just DI you might have issues with lighting since the polished tubing would probably reflect a lot more light than the clear acrylic tubing.

If you used a colored coolant it could work; the dull of a pastel next to the shine of the polished tubing? UV coolant glowing next to the polished tubing reflecting UV lighting?

I would be really curious to see how it turns out! All your builds are just so amazing either way.


----------



## MunneY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Talking about one of these.
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to switch my folder to this and do some water cool goodness.


Hey... That looks vaguely familiar!

Enjoy it!

I guess I can show off my cooling in here since I haven't :-D


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wanted.....
> 
> 
> 
> Until I found out that half the functionality is a paid extra....whats next AquaC,a season pass for DLC?


Extra? How so? I can't quite see it on their site as to what's extra other than the resevoir.

EDIT: Ohhhhh.... The advanced controller package, and how some features pretty much require the Aquaero 5 or 6 to use.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Color for the loop, sugestions?

(Taken with an crappy phone)

Will be setting an 980ti in there as well. (It's folding on air until I can order an new waterblock for it^^)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New tray for the 901 Celestial build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res cover needs to be welded in yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Integrated res and wiring cavity in there!


This is sharp as Hades B!









I need to get my tray done or I'm gonna be seriously jelly about yours. What did you use to carve yours with?









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly not,im still truing the machine up and getting it accurate,a tedious process....
> 
> Log here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1586113/in-win-901-celestial/0_20


Sounds interesting actually, possibly post worthy?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New tray for the 901 Celestial build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res cover needs to be welded in yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Integrated res and wiring cavity in there!


So you have been putting that Shepeoko to great use!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is sharp as Hades B!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get my tray done or I'm gonna be seriously jelly about yours. What did you use to carve yours with?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I got this cut by Justin at PARVUM,cost about £100 to make.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Sounds interesting actually, possibly post worthy?


It really isnt,it involves me,a micrometer and ratchet straps and a whole lot of swearing.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> So you have been putting that Shepeoko to great use!


All the Alu parts will be cut by me,this was a part better suited to the PARVUM guys as acrylic is their thing.


----------



## pc-illiterate

skipped right to the last page, 9363, because i saw it turned into an asus thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> skipped right to the last page, 9363, because i saw it turned into an asus thread.


That's not hard to do since most watercooling systems here in my experience are ASUS.









~Ceadder


----------



## MunneY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's not hard to do since most watercooling systems here in my experience are ASUS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


pshhhh not mine


----------



## iCrap

Any suggestions for a really really bright UV LED strip? I have one from superbrightleds but its not that great.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Any suggestions for a really really bright UV LED strip? I have one from superbrightleds but its not that great.


I've got some Darkside white LED's in my system and they are super bright. Many people on the forum have positive things to say about Darkside LED's as well.

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/12in-30cm-darkside-connect-dimmable-rigid-led-strip-uv-rev4/


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> I've got some Darkside white LED's in my system and they are super bright. Many people on the forum have positive things to say about Darkside LED's as well.
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/12in-30cm-darkside-connect-dimmable-rigid-led-strip-uv-rev4/


cool i'll go ahead and order that.
Are they dimmable? I plugged my superbrightleds strip into my Aquero and i'm able to dim it.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> cool i'll go ahead and order that.
> Are they dimmable? I plugged my superbrightleds strip into my Aquero and i'm able to dim it.


Yep Darkside LEDs are dimmable.

Check these 2 videos for some info about the product. I've got their UV LEDs and am very pleased

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSd6uXItSyM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dlhs_Vs_1F4


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> cool i'll go ahead and order that.
> Are they dimmable? I plugged my superbrightleds strip into my Aquero and i'm able to dim it.


Yep they are, I have mine coming off my Aquaero and have been working perfectly.


----------



## emsj86

Made it to tech source of wars ep5. I know my build is the best but made my day to see it there. If you can help a fellow out with a vote if appreciate it. If this is against he thread rules let me know ill delete this message. Thanks guys. Jim


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MunneY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's not hard to do since most watercooling systems here in my experience are ASUS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pshhhh not mine
Click to expand...

Me an Bneg are two. There are others.









But I getcha. You don't and that's kewl. But ASUS is at the top of the foodchain for good reason. They've had a few hiccups sure but hey them' the breaks when you sell as much as they do. No company is Fail proof.









~Ceadder


----------



## slowbro69

Just added a 140mm Darkice rad to loop. I am liking it so far


----------



## wermad

Can't believe I ran through all 6m of acrylic tube







. I just had one more run to do....







. I ended up making some changes to my original layout and I guess this ate up more then a meter of tube (







).

Placed another order, this time w/ extra just in case (4m). Sadly, ppcs.com still has not updated their shipping. They win this round me guesses







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looking sharp guys.









Soon as I can finally place my order with confidence I will be getting 12 tubes from PPCs'. Shipping is gonna be murder but to be expected when you add 3' packages to the shipping.









Although am not sure why they don't simply package them up in shipping tubes to meet the added length and send everything else separately in another box.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> What color will the coolant be? If it's just DI you might have issues with lighting since the polished tubing would probably reflect a lot more light than the clear acrylic tubing.
> 
> If you used a colored coolant it could work; the dull of a pastel next to the shine of the polished tubing? UV coolant glowing next to the polished tubing reflecting UV lighting?
> 
> I would be really curious to see how it turns out! *All your builds are just so amazing either way.*


Coolant colours, I am still leaning toward Blueberry pastel, and a Purple pastel. But That could change. It will not be just clear DI if that is what you are wondering.

I have yet to build a UV reactive build. I am just not to sure about that, or whether buying UV lights and reactive fluid would be worth it.

Darkside LED White are just fantastic IMO, and have served me quite well.

TCO

Thanks for the Compliment as well.







I appreciate the feedback about them.


----------



## Coolzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*


I believe I see Phillips Fidelio X(1 or 2) headphones







Also, very shmexy build. All those straight lines, and not a single one appears to be diagonal in the slightest (something which seems rather difficult to perfect)!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolzo*
> 
> All those straight lines, and not a single one appears to be diagonal in the slightest (something which seems rather difficult to perfect)!


its easy when you use fittings.


----------



## wermad

Even working with a bunch of angle fittings, hard line is very involved. Lots and lots, and lots of measurements.

finally, a decent pic:


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Even working with a bunch of angle fittings, hard line is very involved. Lots and lots, and lots of measurements.


but nowhere near as difficult as bent hardline. cut to length and assemble. no heating and bending involved with the possibility of a bad bend requiring a new piece to be cut and rebent. so as i stated, easy getting straight runs with fittings. its easier period when you use fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its not a competition tho neh?


----------



## pc-illiterate

i never claimed it was B. i was simply making a statement to coolzo's post.


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolzo*
> 
> I believe I see Phillips Fidelio X(1 or 2) headphones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, very shmexy build. All those straight lines, and not a single one appears to be diagonal in the slightest (something which seems rather difficult to perfect)!


You are correct







They are Fidelio X2's. I just got them last month. They are probably the nicest pair of headphones I have ever had. Open back but still with a rich bass.

And thanks for the kind words. I think the tubing worked out alright. The hard part was definitely the section that runs from the upper radiator around the GPU. In theory it seemed easy enough, but since every fitting has a tiny bit of slack, it was difficult to make it align with the other tubing, but I think it turned out alright


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> but nowhere near as difficult as bent hardline. cut to length and assemble. no heating and bending involved with the possibility of a bad bend requiring a new piece to be cut and rebent. so as i stated, easy getting straight runs with fittings. its easier period when you use fittings.


Yeah, think for my folder I'm going with angle fittings this time. One length of tube in my main rig I had to redo over three times to get all three bends correct. Three others I had to redo about twice.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MunneY*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey... That looks vaguely familiar!
> 
> Enjoy it!
> 
> I guess I can show off my cooling in here since I haven't :-D


Is that lighting or is that bottom "U-turn" kinked?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> but nowhere near as difficult as bent hardline. cut to length and assemble. no heating and bending involved with the possibility of a bad bend requiring a new piece to be cut and rebent. so as i stated, easy getting straight runs with fittings. its easier period when you use fittings.


Yea...I second that for sure. It's really tough when your space is somewhat confined like in my s5, and getting a micrometer is tough so you're forced to use a piece of string. If it was just one axis of measurement, fine but you got to balance and make sure it's even on X, y, and z...

Def not for the faint of heart.
This is my most recent build (build log in my sig), and you can see that at least one of the bends of off a little.

The front 280 to cpu block bends down, the cpu to gpu angles forward. It's hard to see in these pics. Finally the top 280 back to reservoir is horizontally off...impossible to tell in this pic but it's there... I have the equivalent of a triple rotary fitting on the res and rad both and yet I can't get it to align properly due to the rad to cpu tube blocking the swing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> but nowhere near as difficult as bent hardline. cut to length and assemble. no heating and bending involved with the possibility of a bad bend requiring a new piece to be cut and rebent. so as i stated, easy getting straight runs with fittings. its easier period when you use fittings.


Its harder...on your wallet....
















edit: least you guys won't have to chamfer more ends





















. My hands are sore, even with a hand sander.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC




----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its harder...on your wallet....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> edit: least you guys won't have to chamfer more ends
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> . My hands are sore, even with a hand sander.


this is funny as hell and so true. wear gloves grumpy! lol.
i luz ya werm!


----------



## wermad

You gotta sand those ends good or they start chewing on the o-rings. I think i killed about 20 of them


----------



## Ithanul

Chamfer, what is this chamfer you speak of.







Yes, I'm that nuts, I straight just put the darn tubes in with no sanding. Then again they Primochill rigid compression.


----------



## lilchronic

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Chamfer, what is this chamfer you speak of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I'm that nuts, I straight just put the darn tubes in with no sanding. Then again they Primochill rigid compression.




I'm using barrow, its got two o-rings inside the base of the fitting and a 3rd o-ring slides over the tube and its compressed by the locking ring. Its a good thing each fitting comes with a few extra o-rings.


----------



## Georgey123

My rig at the moment, didn't do a build log but took a couple of pictures:



























Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























































































Happy new year







.


----------



## Costas

Very tidy Georgey123 - Looks nice...!


----------



## catbuster

@ Georgey123 very nice rig


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You gotta sand those ends good or they start chewing on the o-rings. I think i killed about 20 of them


That's one reason I like my Monsoon Economies. Single Oring is pretty simple to work with and so long as I lubricate them, they don't ge chewed to bits by the end of the tubing no matter what.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using barrow, *its got two o-rings inside the base of the fitting* and a 3rd o-ring slides over the tube and its compressed by the locking ring. *Its a good thing each fitting comes with a few extra o-rings.*


Bitspower has none of these things.........


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> My rig at the moment, didn't do a build log but took a couple of pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
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> Happy new year
> 
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> .


Very nice indeed! It looks great in my opinion.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> My rig at the moment, didn't do a build log but took a couple of pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
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> Happy new year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice indeed! It looks great in my opinion.
Click to expand...

I agree. It's a nice mix of fittings and bent hardline tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> My rig at the moment, didn't do a build log but took a couple of pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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C L E A N









Looks like blue vok in them tall glasses


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using barrow, its got two o-rings inside the base of the fitting and a 3rd o-ring slides over the tube and its compressed by the locking ring. Its a good thing each fitting comes with a few extra o-rings.


Been thinking of trying out some barrows. Just curious where most of ya get them though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *now for you a little journey through time:*
> 
> Anfi-tec CPU01 "exFRS"
> 
> 
> Anfi-tec CPU01 "exFRS"
> 
> 
> Anfi-tec CPU02 "Soleil01"
> 
> 
> Anfi-tec CPU02 "Soleil02" (performance improvement)
> 
> 
> Anfi-tec CPU03 "drei"
> 
> 
> *In terms of time the whole thing looks like this:*
> 30/03/2008 CPU01 "exFRS" was limited to 50 pieces (sold out)
> 
> 21/12/2008 CPU02 "Soleil01" (sold out)
> 
> 01.2012 CPU02 "Soleil02" (still about 25 left in stock)
> 
> 12.2015 CPU03 "three" (series launch of 100 units)
> 
> The "drei" is basically an evolution of the Soleil02.
> In the inside it has a similar structure. Again, with the multi-intake-outtake principle only much finer, larger, with a calculated structure and only "three" inlets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the exterior design I wanted something elaborate like the exFRS. Therefore we needed a cover.
> Since you want to but have the inlet left or right , the Cover is 180° rotatable and so the lettering is always horizontal.
> Because of through the larger structure the cooler went more and more in the width, we had a design forth what the rectangular shape looks outstanding with Cover.
> Core inspiration here were the broken triangles of Oblivion ... God I like these:
> 
> Because we wanted to present a manufacturable CPU cooler model together with the new website to Christmas, we have refrained from its own mounting bolts and put on proven. Here we have retaining bolt with suspension purchased directly from Watercool which therefore also specify the assembly / lateral insertion height of the bracket. One or the other perhaps has noticed it indeed by himself that we have bought here something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://pic.anfi-tec.de/2016.01.02_CPU03mounting/Information.jpg
> http://pic.anfi-tec.de/2016.01.02_CPU03mounting/Lieferung.jpg
> The exFRS had the recesses in the holder long time before any HK had it. That's just a fact. Whether angular or round, it depends precisely on the parallel to the outer contour ... this is only incidental. The most important feature of the design is that the cutouts goes to cooler-main-body. In addition, there is no one really interested if we were now really the first with this design (we just had it, so it is) .. counts in the end, only that the "drei" extremely feels at home very well in every motherboard.


So you used Watercools mount.

To promote your products here,you will need to get Vendor or Artisan status from the staff too.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using barrow, its got two o-rings inside the base of the fitting and a 3rd o-ring slides over the tube and its compressed by the locking ring. Its a good thing each fitting comes with a few extra o-rings.
> 
> 
> 
> Been thinking of trying out some barrows. Just curious where most of ya get them though.
Click to expand...

I use an eBay seller called pccoolings. Just search for thier store.


----------



## MunneY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I use an eBay seller called pccoolings. Just search for thier store.


http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=pccoolings&_armrs=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xbarrow.TRS0&_nkw=barrow&_sacat=0

;-)


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MunneY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I use an eBay seller called pccoolings. Just search for thier store.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=pccoolings&_armrs=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xbarrow.TRS0&_nkw=barrow&_sacat=0
> 
> ;-)
Click to expand...

Not supposed to post ebay links, that's why I said to search, but that's it. I've ordered a lot from him and always had good results. Juse wish he would expand his products a little more. I know barrow makes colored fittings but they're impossible to find.


----------



## toolmaker03

I have seen these once before they look like bitspower fittings, but how do the rotary fittings compare to bitspower at the rotary connection, is it as tight? a little looser? or a lot looser like alpha cool rotary fittings?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> I have seen these once before they look like bitspower fittings, but how do the rotary fittings compare to bitspower at the rotary connection, is it as tight? a little looser? or a lot looser like alpha cool rotary fittings?


Very tight, almost too tight, almost... I've never had any barrow fitting leak on me, I love them, and the cost makes them oh so much more attractive. In comparison I've had Alphacool and EK rotaries leak one time each.


----------



## mus1mus

Too tight they (Barrow Fittings) will hurt your hand/fingers when uninstalling/loosening them fittings.

More grippy grooves on them and they are perfect.


----------



## toolmaker03

radnad
I've had Alphacool and EK rotaries leak one time each.
so have I, that is why I asked, lol so the next time I am needing new fittings, like I will be needing here in a couple of months, I will supplement my purchase with some barrow fittings, thanks for the replies, I am always looking for a good way of cutting costs on a water loop build, that does not compromise quality, and reliability. I am willing to try fittings from any company, and I have tried almost all of them, but I have always found myself right back to bitspower for my fittings, and they can get pricey.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> radnad
> I've had Alphacool and EK rotaries leak one time each.
> so have I, that is why I asked, lol so the next time I am needing new fittings, like I will be needing here in a couple of months, I will supplement my purchase with some barrow fittings, thanks for the replies, I am always looking for a good way of cutting costs on a water loop build, that does not compromise quality, and reliability. I am willing to try fittings from any company, and I have tried almost all of them, but I have always found myself right back to bitspower for my fittings, and they can get pricey.


I love BP fittings and would have no problem paying the cost, the reason why I don't is because I don't want dragons/seahorses all inside my build. Barrow looks and performs exactly like BP without the logo drama, lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's one reason I like my Monsoon Economies. Single Oring is pretty simple to work with and so long as I lubricate them, they don't ge chewed to bits by the end of the tubing no matter what.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Are those the ones with the glued on collar? Its nice having a conversion kit of the soft tube to hardline.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower has none of these things.........


I ended up buying a pack of o-rings before my fittings arrived. To my surprise, each fitting/end comes with two extra o-rings. I've yet to open the pack of -rings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Been thinking of trying out some barrows. Just curious where most of ya get them though.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I use an eBay seller called pccoolings. Just search for thier store.
Click to expand...

I went with aliexpress.com since they have a larger selection. Depending on the seller, you may have to wait a bit as its delivered via standard Chinese post/mail. I opted on the two large orders to ship via dhl as its a bit faster (though a bit more expensive). If you plan to buy a few, go with ebay (make sure its a US seller as there are a few Chinese sellers there too), but if you plan to buy a bunch of fittings, go with aliexpress and contact the seller for combination/bulk shipping discounts. So far, aliexpress.com has been very good and no complaints tbh.


----------



## Azefore

Think its only linked in off topic but figured I'd post this instead of lurking some more:

EKWB made LTT a custom 7 slot bridge for the GPUs in one of his builds



Pretty much a chunk but thought it was worth posting


----------



## MunneY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Think its only linked in off topic but figured I'd post this instead of lurking some more:
> 
> EKWB made LTT a custom 7 slot bridge for the GPUs in one of his builds
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much a chunk but thought it was worth posting


I'm not going to lie.. that is a pretty impressive feat they did. I mean... The pricing is ridiculous but would definitely be fun to play with.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MunneY*
> 
> I'm not going to lie.. that is a pretty impressive feat they did. I mean... The pricing is ridiculous but would definitely be fun to play with.


It's a common LTT theme, and it's getting very boring very fast...


----------



## NRD

So I finally got my GPU loop together, but I had an issue with my D5 and am waiting for a new one to be delivered next week







but I'm really happy with how it turned out, first time using acrylic. Pretty much all aquacomputer, Kryographics blocks on the 290s with active backplates. Aquaero 6 XT, aqualis res with an EK Coolstream 480mm rad with 8 Furious Vardar fans on it. I did a bit of paint work to keep with the black and orange theme of that beautiful Gigabyte mobo.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Think its only linked in off topic but figured I'd post this instead of lurking some more:
> 
> EKWB made LTT a custom 7 slot bridge for the GPUs in one of his builds
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much a chunk but thought it was worth posting


Linus is using this in his $30,000 build with 7 Nanos, is the most amazing machine I think I have ever seen considering its a server with 7 vm's


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, I accidentally ran my EK DCP 2.2 for less than a second with no water in it. From my understanding, it only breaks because fluid is used to lubricate the pump, and since there was water in it previously, I think its ok, but it may ave dried out. Is it ok, or did I kill my pump?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I accidentally ran my EK DCP 2.2 for less than a second with no water in it. From my understanding, it only breaks because fluid is used to lubricate the pump, and since there was water in it previously, I think its ok, but it may ave dried out. Is it ok, or did I kill my pump?


At less than a second you will be fine, the pump would need to run for a bit longer to damage itself (many minutes usually)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It's a common LTT theme, and it's getting very boring very fast...


I'm hoping they do some component reviews again but doesn't sound like from one of the other recent videos, just the special products like Samsung's 3.84TB SSD


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I accidentally ran my EK DCP 2.2 for less than a second with no water in it. From my understanding, it only breaks because fluid is used to lubricate the pump, and since there was water in it previously, I think its ok, but it may ave dried out. Is it ok, or did I kill my pump?


I've ran a dcp 4 a lot longer than that with no water in it and has been going strong for 3+ years 24/7. Have you tried it yet?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> At less than a second you will be fine, the pump would need to run for a bit longer to damage itself (many minutes usually)
> I'm hoping they do some component reviews again but doesn't sound like from one of the other recent videos, just the special products like Samsung's 3.84TB SSD


They do product reviews but it mostly consists of buy intel or spend $1000's or go home... I've not seen any review in the last few months worth watching and I'm certainly sick of their builds being completely rubbish, the fallout bomb build was an utter joke.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Linus is using this in his $30,000 build with 7 Nanos, is the most amazing machine I think I have ever seen considering its a server with 7 vm's


It's funny how so many people say this but I watched about 2 mins of the entire thing and switched it off yawning...


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They do product reviews but it mostly consists of buy intel or spend $1000's or go home... I've not seen any review in the last few months worth watching and I'm certainly sick of their builds being completely rubbish, the fallout bomb build was an utter joke.
> It's funny how so many people say this but I watched about 2 mins of the entire thing and switched it off yawning...


I thought it was pretty awesome.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They do product reviews but it mostly consists of buy intel or spend $1000's or go home... I've not seen any review in the last few months worth watching and I'm certainly sick of their builds being completely rubbish, the fallout bomb build was an utter joke.
> It's funny how so many people say this but I watched about 2 mins of the entire thing and switched it off yawning...


I quite liked this build video but yah wasn't too moved by the Fallout build, everything fells too time constrained or not planned out that greatly except for sponsor line-ups.

Market's not exactly exciting though so I can understand the lack of variety. I like the server videos personally, but the enthusiasts watching know what to expect which isn't the true target audience.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's one reason I like my Monsoon Economies. Single Oring is pretty simple to work with and so long as I lubricate them, they don't ge chewed to bits by the end of the tubing no matter what.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those the ones with the glued on collar? Its nice having a conversion kit of the soft tube to hardline.
> 
> .
Click to expand...

no glue involved with these fittings. They are similar to Primochill Revolvers but don't have the same wrench for the collars. Just have a single Oring to secure the tube inside the collar and they are similar to their flex fittings. You put the collar over the tube then fit the Oring and screw the collar to the base. Easy peasy.









I don't suggest doing so regularly, but I've picked my board up by the MB Outlet/ CPU Inlet tube after securing it. It's not going anywhere any time soon. Push fittings are great an all but I'd rather *know* that my tubes are secure than guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I went with aliexpress.com since they have a larger selection. Depending on the seller, you may have to wait a bit as its delivered via standard Chinese post/mail. I opted on the two large orders to ship via dhl as its a bit faster (though a bit more expensive). If you plan to buy a few, go with ebay (make sure its a US seller as there are a few Chinese sellers there too), but if you plan to buy a bunch of fittings, go with aliexpress and contact the seller for combination/bulk shipping discounts. So far, aliexpress.com has been very good and no complaints tbh.


Hmmm, I was wondering about that site. Came across it while hunting a water block for my 970 Turbo. Which they have a water block for the 970 Mini which should fit the Turbo since the pcb is same by the looks of things. May just grab some barrows then off there. I'm not in a rush anyways. Still hunting out another use hardware labs rad for the front of the Define S. The Admiral 360 rad I have laying around is just to darn thick. Thankfully I got 6 spare AP-19s laying around too. The folder going to be sweet once I get it fully water cooled.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using barrow, its got two o-rings inside the base of the fitting and a 3rd o-ring slides over the tube and its compressed by the locking ring. Its a good thing each fitting comes with a few extra o-rings.


Also, an alternative to the Barrow fittings, are the Darkside fittings. I bought some from a local member and the 12mm hardline fittings and dual ended fittings looks similar. It also comes with 3 O-rings on each fittings.

TBH, they look awfully similar compared to the Barrow fittings.







And here's a comparison to a BP 90* rotary fittings:



Which only has 2 o-rings in total. I've tried them both on my 12mm BP Acrylic and EK PETG tubing alongside the BP fittings i have, and they fit the tubing very similar to each other. It a very snug fit.


----------



## Costas

A lot of folks Downunder have been utilising Barrow fittings for some time now.

Majority of feedback has been extremely positive and they seem like a solid bit of kit.

Only drawback seems to be the lack of range and ease of availability.


----------



## wermad

That's about 2/3 of all the fittings I bought. I've also seen the other name branded for pretty much the exact same fittings. So far, I'm impressed with the tube res, the d5 top and housings. The fittings, the mority of the time they're great but just a few are a pita to install. Just gotta lube em up good


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> radnad
> I've had Alphacool and EK rotaries leak one time each.
> so have I, that is why I asked, lol so the next time I am needing new fittings, like I will be needing here in a couple of months, I will supplement my purchase with some barrow fittings, thanks for the replies, I am always looking for a good way of cutting costs on a water loop build, that does not compromise quality, and reliability. I am willing to try fittings from any company, and I have tried almost all of them, but I have always found myself right back to bitspower for my fittings, and they can get pricey.


There is a quote button on the bottom right of each post. It makes it easier for people to read and follow what you have written.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I accidentally ran my EK DCP 2.2 for less than a second with no water in it. From my understanding, it only breaks because fluid is used to lubricate the pump, and since there was water in it previously, I think its ok, but it may ave dried out. Is it ok, or did I kill my pump?


The Jingway pumps use a sort of sleeve type bearing with a much larger surface area than the Laing pumps so they are less sensitive to short unlubricated runs. Still not a great idea of course though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Also, an alternative to the Barrow fittings, are the Darkside fittings. I bought some from a local member and the 12mm hardline fittings and dual ended fittings looks similar. It also comes with 3 O-rings on each fittings.
> 
> TBH, they look awfully similar compared to the Barrow fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a comparison to a BP 90* rotary fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> Which only has 2 o-rings in total. I've tried them both on my 12mm BP Acrylic and EK PETG tubing alongside the BP fittings i have, and they fit the tubing very similar to each other. It a very snug fit.


Pretty sure they are in fact Barrow fittings.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Finally done with computer done building my desk, and got third monitor. Nice to be finished and sit back and enjoy


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Pretty sure they are in fact Barrow fittings.


Might be the same oem; these are some of the other brands I've seen at ali:

-QYFreeze
-Bykski
-WinfMOD (seller as well)
-Boom (I like the logo)

There's probably a few more I stumbled on while i was browsing aliexpress.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Very tidy Georgey123 - Looks nice...!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> @ Georgey123 very nice rig


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Very nice indeed! It looks great in my opinion.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I agree. It's a nice mix of fittings and bent hardline tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> C L E A N
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like blue vok in them tall glasses


Thanks for the kind words guys, very much appreciated.


----------



## IT Diva

Got my S8 build up and running, hopefully, it will become my new daily driver.

Using onboard video for now, while I wait on a 980Ti or 2.







Darlene


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Got my S8 build up and running, hopefully, it will become my new daily driver.
> 
> Using onboard video for now, while I wait on a 980Ti or 2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


That lower left chamber rear exhaust is the sexiest thing, I've ever seen. Congratulations Diva!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words guys, very much appreciated.


I love the tube run from the cpu block to the mosfet block.

TCO

EDIT: Also went to local Home Depot, only could find copper tubing in 1/2" and 3/8" size. No polished Steel piping


----------



## alltheGHz

Anyways, I'm looking into new watercooling shops to buy from. PPCs is fine, but the shipping costs are unreal, and I don't like the prospect of only having a single retailer to buy from. I also hate browsing the site, the layout bothers me every time I visit them. What are some other WCing shops to buy from?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Anyways, I'm looking into new watercooling shops to buy from. PPCs is fine, but the shipping costs are unreal, and I don't like the prospect of only having a single retailer to buy from. I also hate browsing the site, the layout bothers me every time I visit them. What are some other WCing shops to buy from?


Modmymods would be another.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Anyways, I'm looking into new watercooling shops to buy from. PPCs is fine, but the shipping costs are unreal, and I don't like the prospect of only having a single retailer to buy from. I also hate browsing the site, the layout bothers me every time I visit them. What are some other WCing shops to buy from?


Pccoolings on ebay. Been using them for a few months. They are stupid awesome. Really nice guys. Had an issue with some fittings. Guy didn't even sweat it. Sent me all the fittings that was lost free of charge overnight shipping.

Unlike the $17 I lost a year ago from the drunken ****** at Frozen...


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Pccoolings on ebay. Been using them for a few months. They are stupid awesome. Really nice guys. Had an issue with some fittings. Guy didn't even sweat it. Sent me all the fittings that was lost free of charge overnight shipping.
> 
> Unlike the $17 I lost a year ago from the drunken ****** at Frozen...


I'm bought a couple orders from them, fast shipping and good looking components/fittings.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I'm bought a couple orders from them, fast shipping and good looking components/fittings.


I have only heard nothing but GREAT reviews about Pccoolings. So far, they are getting all my money. They have everything a user would need.


----------



## VSG

They are actually a big warehouse based in Houston, I've driven past it a few times. They sell just about everything from China (toys, clothes, electronics etx). Sadly they don't allow in person sales, so I am ok with PPCs and eBay otherwise for my needs.


----------



## Ranger_XP

Hey OCN - It has been forever since I have been on. You will be pleased to know that my water cooled MB/VideoCard/Processor have all been working flawless for over 3 years. As a matter of fact I am kind of worried. The water just seems to not evaporate hardly at all, stays clear, and so I haven't changed or cleaned anything for years.

I am afraid to take it apart to check for corrosion. Any advice? Can I just leave well enough alone... or when is too much of a good thing too good to be true?

Happy New Years!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They are actually a big warehouse based in Houston, I've driven past it a few times. They sell just about everything from China (toys, clothes, electronics etx). Sadly they don't allow in person sales, so I am ok with PPCs and eBay otherwise for my needs.


Not sure I will ever use them when they have items that are ripped off of other manufacturers...





I refuse to support knockoffs.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure I will ever use them when they have items that are ripped off of other manufacturers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I refuse to support knockoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I got parts from Barrow that no one else makes/made at the time. There's always going to be rip off from brands but yeah some of their stuff is too much.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure I will ever use them when they have items that are ripped off of other manufacturers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I refuse to support knockoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got parts from Barrow that no one else makes/made at the time. There's always going to be rip off from brands but yeah some of their stuff is too much.
Click to expand...

That was just on the first page. FrozenQ also gets ripped off on a couple other pages as well as EK and a few others I saw while surfing all 8 pages of their listing. There isn't a single page where they don't have some kind of knockoff.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I love the tube run from the cpu block to the mosfet block.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Also went to local Home Depot, only could find copper tubing in 1/2" and 3/8" size. No polished Steel piping


The only chrome /polished lines ypu might find at home depot are sink supply lines. 12-18 inches in length.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure I will ever use them when they have items that are ripped off of other manufacturers...
> 
> I refuse to support knockoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If its a quality product and undercuts the competition I really dont care.

I mean look at the car industry, Im not going to refuse to purchase one brand simply because another did it first.


----------



## inedenimadam

why not just bend copper then electroplate it yourself after you get the bends right? I have never done anything that big, but I plated some random stuff with my sons as a science project. it was cheap, easy, and turned out great. You could seal off the ends of the pipes to keep the plating out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I love the tube run from the cpu block to the mosfet block.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Also went to local Home Depot, only could find copper tubing in 1/2" and 3/8" size. No polished Steel piping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only chrome /polished lines ypu might find at home depot are sink supply lines. 12-18 inches in length.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure I will ever use them when they have items that are ripped off of other manufacturers...
> 
> I refuse to support knockoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If its a quality product and undercuts the competition I really dont care.
> 
> I mean look at the car industry, Im not going to refuse to purchase one brand simply because another did it first.
Click to expand...

I don't ave a problem with copying and improving upon any technology. But there are no improvements here. It's all copy and cheat the other company out of their rightful rewards.

There were NO improvements to the Barrows jigs. I have a set of the Monsoon jigs and other than color as well as possibly the material, and no way they paid Gino for his work. Every FrozenQ knockoff is the same too.

You can bring up any analogy you want to, but you cannot justify this. It's called Patent Infringement or you can call it plagiarism if you don't understand what patent infringement means. Someone's intellectual property was straight up stolen.









10 years until patent rights expire from the date of filing. There is NOTHING in that catalog that is 10 years old. The CSQ tops are nearly 4 years in existence or so. It's sad that so many people don't care about property rights. Not even Ford Chevy and Dodge stole with impunity. They drove other companies out of business(Tucker and Nash) but they didn't copy any design without making improvements upon the design.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> why not just bend copper then electroplate it yourself after you get the bends right? I have never done anything that big, but I plated some random stuff with my sons as a science project. it was cheap, easy, and turned out great. You could seal off the ends of the pipes to keep the plating out.


Great idea for my "planned shenanigans" science projects for the kiddies! Actually, when I got hit by the ek nickel-gate i had seriously thought about buying a plating kit since re-plating the blocks would have been more expensive then just buying new blocks. There's lots of small kits out there to plate small things like coins and antique shaving blades. In principle, you can just scale it properly to do tube and blocks with the proper stuff. Maybe gold plate a few little things


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Great idea for my "planned shenanigans" science projects for the kiddies! Actually, when I got hit by the ek nickel-gate i had seriously thought about buying a plating kit since re-plating the blocks would have been more expensive then just buying new blocks. There's lots of small kits out there to plate small things like coins and antique shaving blades. In principle, you can just scale it properly to do tube and blocks with the proper stuff. Maybe gold plate a few little things


you can just brush plate instead of using tanks.its way cheaper on the chemical side of things. & you can do only the exterior









here is a little kit for replica chrome
you can brush the chrome solution straight onto copper so no need for activators or anything.
http://gaterosplating.co.uk/Replica-Chrome-Brush-Plating-Kit.php

you can make something yourself though using cotton pads or buds. or tampons lol. & steel wire.
your misses will wonder what the hell your doing hehe.









also im sure you can find an old 12v 2-3 amp plug from something discarded to create a power supply.

Ive been using cotton pads a steel rod & a ps 200w 0v-15v i had from anodising.ive been brush plating gold & it works fine. ive also used it before for nickel plating.

its cheap & easy to do really & you can throw something together for half the price of that kit & it will work better also


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

The way it should have been released:


----------



## snef

Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES


Amazing build!


----------



## alltheGHz

Thank you everyone who reccomended shops to shop from


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Darn, snef who still make some amazing builds. That is just sweet looking as can be.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How you got that GPU in there like that? That's pretty nifty.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't ave a problem with copying and improving upon any technology. But there are no improvements here. It's all copy and cheat the other company out of their rightful rewards.
> 
> There were NO improvements to the Barrows jigs. I have a set of the Monsoon jigs and other than color as well as possibly the material, and no way they paid Gino for his work. Every FrozenQ knockoff is the same too.
> 
> You can bring up any analogy you want to, but you cannot justify this. It's called Patent Infringement or you can call it plagiarism if you don't understand what patent infringement means. Someone's intellectual property was straight up stolen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10 years until patent rights expire from the date of filing. There is NOTHING in that catalog that is 10 years old. The CSQ tops are nearly 4 years in existence or so. It's sad that so many people don't care about property rights. Not even Ford Chevy and Dodge stole with impunity. They drove other companies out of business(Tucker and Nash) but they didn't copy any design without making improvements upon the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well, there is no patent to violate because it's not a new product. Monsoon did not invent bending jigs. They have been around for many many years.

There is not much that is truly new in water cooling.

I hope FrozenQ pay royalties to Umbrella Corp.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Darn, snef who still make some amazing builds. That is just sweet looking as can be.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> How you got that GPU in there like that? That's pretty nifty.


Thanks

I cut 2 triangle in 15mm thick acrylic and put 2 m4 insert on both face

I drill 4 hole in the EK backplate, screw backplate on triangle than screw the backplate on GPU, drill 4 hole in the bottom of case and screw the gpu in the bottom

lol hope I'm clear, sorry if I'm not


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> *Well, there is no patent to violate because it's not a new product. Monsoon did not invent bending jigs. They have been around for many many years.*
> 
> There is not much that is truly new in water cooling.
> 
> I hope FrozenQ pay royalties to Umbrella Corp.












Its a tool thats shape is defined by its use,Monsoon were not the first.

Same with fittings. The use defines the shape.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

After seeing some peoples rigs in here I'm beginning to realize mine should be in the ghetto shenanigans thread...




Running 2 modded H60 coolers from a few years back with some Buna-N Rubber hose and 2 XSPC RS240 rads...
GPU is a GTX970 Strix that maxes around 37C and CPU is the trusty 2500k maxes around 63C @ 4.5GHz


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES


Great looking build!

How did you get the Dominator Platinum ram to glow that nice shade of red? I tried putting a piece of red, clear plastic in there, but it turned out very pink/purple.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> I cut 2 triangle in 15mm thick acrylic and put 2 m4 insert on both face
> 
> I drill 4 hole in the EK backplate, screw backplate on triangle than screw the backplate on GPU, drill 4 hole in the bottom of case and screw the gpu in the bottom
> 
> lol hope I'm clear, sorry if I'm not


No completely clear. That's a pretty good idea how to keep the card stable by fastening it using the backplates. +1 for the info!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaBravo*
> 
> Great looking build!
> 
> How did you get the Dominator Platinum ram to glow that nice shade of red? I tried putting a piece of red, clear plastic in there, but it turned out very pink/purple.


There's a guy who has custom colored light bars. I think Snef went with him for the cables and those light bars (Lavins) if I am not mistaken.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaBravo*
> 
> Great looking build!
> 
> How did you get the Dominator Platinum ram to glow that nice shade of red? I tried putting a piece of red, clear plastic in there, but it turned out very pink/purple.


I used dark red stained glass paint


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaBravo*
> 
> Great looking build!
> 
> How did you get the Dominator Platinum ram to glow that nice shade of red? I tried putting a piece of red, clear plastic in there, but it turned out very pink/purple.


Use a Red Candy finish paint or,as snef did,glass paint.


----------



## catbuster

Too much rog for my taste


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> After seeing some peoples rigs in here I'm beginning to realize mine should be in the ghetto shenanigans thread...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running 2 modded H60 coolers from a few years back with some Buna-N Rubber hose and 2 XSPC RS240 rads...
> GPU is a GTX970 Strix that maxes around 37C and CPU is the trusty 2500k maxes around 63C @ 4.5GHz


Nah, whats ghetto is my folder. I got the darn H50 radiator zip tied into the front of the NXZT Apollo case so I could mount the H55 on the 960 to the back.







Don't worry though, it not staying like that. It be soon moving to a Define S case and get proper water cooling done. Just need a good enough day to take a dremel to the S so I can squeeze a EATX into it.







Right now the wind way to cold for me. Winter has finally come to the South and its mean.


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There's a guy who has custom colored light bars. I think Snef went with him for the cables and those light bars (Lavins) if I am not mistaken.


I found this after doing a Google search - https://mainframecustom.com/shop/accessories/light-bar-inserts/

I wonder if Lavins is assocated with Mainframecustoms.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES












That is absolutely gorgeous. Admittedly not the biggest fan of red and black, but looks amazing here









On a side note and possibly a dumb question, can all the RGB lights on that motherboard be turned off or at least to white?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> How you got that GPU in there like that? That's pretty nifty.


Indeed. I was thinking there was probably a riser cable involved.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How you got that GPU in there like that? That's pretty nifty.
Click to expand...

Looks like it was flipped and supported. Connected by PCI-e Extension.









Solid job snef. Perfect mod for the 10th Anniversary of the RoG lineup.










~Ceadder


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Solid job snef. Perfect mod for the 10th Anniversary of the RoG lineup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's beautiful and unique indeed. The way you have that GPU sitting in there is mind boggling. This is going to be very impressive.

Congrats


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How you got that GPU in there like that? That's pretty nifty.
Click to expand...

Looks like it was flipped and supported. Connected by PCI-e Extension.









Solid job snef. Perfect mod for the 10th Anniversary of the RoG lineup.









~Ceadder








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Well, there is no patent to violate because it's not a new product. Monsoon did not invent bending jigs. They have been around for many many years.
> 
> There is not much that is truly new in water cooling.
> 
> I hope FrozenQ pay royalties to Umbrella Corp.


No they sure didn't. But I dare anyone to compare those Barrows jigs to the Monsoon jigs. There were no other jigs on the market that looked like the Monsoon kit. Therefore stolen. You seriously cannot justify this. Had the Barrows jigs been skeletonized versions, fine. Or had they made some form of improvement, fine. But they didn't. They simply copied the whole affair and sell them as their own Intellectual property. Sorry but that offends me.









And FrozenQ didn't have to pay for the inspiration, because there is nobody to pay. If they made a movie prop and sold it to a competitor of the shop who made a knockoff movie, then yeah they probably would have some grounds there but this isn't that. Those reservoirs have a different purpose altogether.

But then here we have the EK CSQ pump tops. No way you can justify that one at all. The circles are plainly visible and the exterior layout is exactly the same. They're just missing the badging.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Out of all the real copy infringement out there that we can complain about lets not get hung up on a stupid jigs and circles. No disrespect to anyone here, but people build these same jigs everyday in their garage from home depot material and we don't castrate home depot for it. I can go 3D print those jigs right now and no one's electricity will be shut off and kids starve because of it. I love Monsoon and Barrow equally, but lets pick our our battles thoughtfully and concentrate on the real thief's out there stealing true intellectual and innovative property.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Out of all the real copy infringement out there that we can complain about lets not get hung up on a stupid jigs and circles. No disrespect to anyone here, but people build these same jigs everyday in their garage from home depot material and we don't castrate home depot for it. I can go 3D print those jigs right now and no one's electricity will be shut off and kids starve because of it. I love Monsoon and Barrow equally, but lets pick our our battles thoughtfully and concentrate on the real thief's out there stealing true intellectual and innovative property.


But every scenario you mention, nobody did it for profit. Home Depot makes money on supplies. 3D printer material company makes money for material and Power Company makes pennies.

I pick and choose my battles accordingly. I'm just sick and tired of Intellectual Theft for profit. People can turn a blind eye all they want. I for one will not. I wasn't raised that way.









I'm not pointing this stuff out to act the fool. But it needs to be said and more people should know these issues cannot continue. We all know where these knockoffs are coming from, so maybe if WE the community refuse to do business with those supplying them and vote with our wallets, those vendors would be more responsible in their purchasing for resale.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But every scenario you mention, nobody did it for profit. Home Depot makes money on supplies. 3D printer material company makes money for material and Power Company makes pennies.
> 
> I pick and choose my battles accordingly. *I'm just sick and tired of Intellectual Theft for profit.* People can turn a blind eye all they want. I for one will not. I wasn't raised that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not pointing this stuff out to act the fool. But it needs to be said and more people should know these issues cannot continue. We all know where these knockoffs are coming from, so maybe if WE the community refuse to do business with those supplying them and vote with our wallets, those vendors would be more responsible in their purchasing for resale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Except its not IP,its a design since year dot,you also dont know what they look like side by side,the Barrow ones could be larger/smaller/thicker........

Guy invents the light bulb,does it give him exclusivity to what it looks like or is it dictated by the end use?


----------



## jodybdesigns

I will say 1 thing. I have used all sorts of fittings. Some are really good, some suck. I am with a lot of people here about the shipping costs at PPCS, they are completely overcharging.

As a full time, full-stack developer, I know the prices on shipping costs. I know they are gouging. I know they are charging "per item shipped", instead of setting the shipping module for "put items in a box". Which is fine with me, because I have done it for a few clients where sizing becomes an issue. But this is NOT true here. These parts are small. Yeah some of the radiators are a bit large, but they will still fit into a box with all your other items.

Did you catch that? I bet you didn't.

They put all of your items into a box ANYWAYS! WHY ARE THEY CHARGING PER ITEM COSTS?

On top of the per item cost, they are adding a small % to each item as well. And lord knows if they are charging us TAX on the shipping as well. Some countries do require tax on shipping. It is very easy to have this slip through the cracks unnoticed.

So from that standpoint alone I stopped shopping at PPCS when I found Pccoolings on Ebay.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is simply stunning. I normally don't care much for red and black builds but that is just wicked (no pun intended with the devil eye thing lol)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like it was flipped and supported. Connected by PCI-e Extension.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solid job snef. Perfect mod for the 10th Anniversary of the RoG lineup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No they sure didn't. But I dare anyone to compare those Barrows jigs to the Monsoon jigs. There were no other jigs on the market that looked like the Monsoon kit. Therefore stolen. You seriously cannot justify this. Had the Barrows jigs been skeletonized versions, fine. Or had they made some form of improvement, fine. But they didn't. They simply copied the whole affair and sell them as their own Intellectual property. Sorry but that offends me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And FrozenQ didn't have to pay for the inspiration, because there is nobody to pay. If they made a movie prop and sold it to a competitor of the shop who made a knockoff movie, then yeah they probably would have some grounds there but this isn't that. Those reservoirs have a different purpose altogether.
> 
> But then here we have the EK CSQ pump tops. No way you can justify that one at all. The circles are plainly visible and the exterior layout is exactly the same. They're just missing the badging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


How does someone improve a bending jig exactly? It's a form with grooves in it, just like all the other benders and bending jigs ever made. It is an improvement in that it's designed for metric tube in more sizes so it's different that way.
Putting holes in them would make it ok? Don't think any genuine patent holders or their lawyers would see it that way somehow.

If anything the imitation t virus res made by frozenQ is more stolen than anything else because it's a genuinely original visual theme a bit like a trade mark. The fact they use it as a reservoir is neither here nor there, if you copy a prada bags visual style and say it's meant for grass clippings not as a lady's bag, it's still a copy. The creators of resident evil or their art designer should be getting paid.
I suspect that is ok because they aren't Chinese though.

You'll have to point out the csq stuff because I've never seen anything barrow that looked like that.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I will say 1 thing. I have used all sorts of fittings. Some are really good, some suck. I am with a lot of people here about the shipping costs at PPCS, they are completely overcharging.
> 
> As a full time, full-stack developer, I know the prices on shipping costs. I know they are gouging. I know they are charging "per item shipped", instead of setting the shipping module for "put items in a box". Which is fine with me, because I have done it for a few clients where sizing becomes an issue. But this is NOT true here. These parts are small. Yeah some of the radiators are a bit large, but they will still fit into a box with all your other items.
> 
> Did you catch that? I bet you didn't.
> 
> They put all of your items into a box ANYWAYS! WHY ARE THEY CHARGING PER ITEM COSTS?
> 
> On top of the per item cost, they are adding a small % to each item as well. And lord knows if they are charging us TAX on the shipping as well. Some countries do require tax on shipping. It is very easy to have this slip through the cracks unnoticed.
> 
> So from that standpoint alone I stopped shopping at PPCS when I found Pccoolings on Ebay.


I work for a company that sells health and nutrition products. We calculate shipping based on weight of total items added to the box. Doesn't stop us from being the biggest scam ive ever seen up close. At least PPCs isn't turning our dollars into ferraris for someone unscrupulous. If I could get everything I want on ebay, great. But shipping per item is no crime in my book.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I will say 1 thing. I have used all sorts of fittings. Some are really good, some suck. I am with a lot of people here about the shipping costs at PPCS, they are completely overcharging.
> 
> As a full time, full-stack developer, I know the prices on shipping costs. I know they are gouging. I know they are charging "per item shipped", instead of setting the shipping module for "put items in a box". Which is fine with me, because I have done it for a few clients where sizing becomes an issue. But this is NOT true here. These parts are small. Yeah some of the radiators are a bit large, but they will still fit into a box with all your other items.
> 
> Did you catch that? I bet you didn't.
> 
> They put all of your items into a box ANYWAYS! WHY ARE THEY CHARGING PER ITEM COSTS?
> 
> On top of the per item cost, they are adding a small % to each item as well. And lord knows if they are charging us TAX on the shipping as well. Some countries do require tax on shipping. It is very easy to have this slip through the cracks unnoticed.
> 
> So from that standpoint alone I stopped shopping at PPCS when I found Pccoolings on Ebay.


Simple solution is to not buy from them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But every scenario you mention, nobody did it for profit. Home Depot makes money on supplies. 3D printer material company makes money for material and Power Company makes pennies.
> 
> I pick and choose my battles accordingly. *I'm just sick and tired of Intellectual Theft for profit.* People can turn a blind eye all they want. I for one will not. I wasn't raised that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not pointing this stuff out to act the fool. But it needs to be said and more people should know these issues cannot continue. We all know where these knockoffs are coming from, so maybe if WE the community refuse to do business with those supplying them and vote with our wallets, those vendors would be more responsible in their purchasing for resale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except its not IP,its a design since year dot,you also dont know what they look like side by side,the Barrow ones could be larger/smaller/thicker........
> 
> Guy invents the light bulb,does it give him exclusivity to what it looks like or is it dictated by the end use?
Click to expand...

They are exactly alike other than color and possibly material imho. The reason we nobody is doing anything about this kind of thing is because a country which shall remain nameless, doesn't believe in property rights. Remember how Lamptron was quite wrongfully victimized by knockoffs? It really needs to stop. Because in the end we are the ones that suffer.









If I require a manufacturing firm to pump out product for me I guarantee they won't be based in that country which shall remain nameless.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I will say 1 thing. I have used all sorts of fittings. Some are really good, some suck. I am with a lot of people here about the shipping costs at PPCS, they are completely overcharging.
> 
> As a full time, full-stack developer, I know the prices on shipping costs. I know they are gouging. I know they are charging "per item shipped", instead of setting the shipping module for "put items in a box". Which is fine with me, because I have done it for a few clients where sizing becomes an issue. But this is NOT true here. These parts are small. Yeah some of the radiators are a bit large, but they will still fit into a box with all your other items.
> 
> Did you catch that? I bet you didn't.
> 
> They put all of your items into a box ANYWAYS! WHY ARE THEY CHARGING PER ITEM COSTS?
> 
> On top of the per item cost, they are adding a small % to each item as well. And lord knows if they are charging us TAX on the shipping as well. Some countries do require tax on shipping. It is very easy to have this slip through the cracks unnoticed.
> 
> So from that standpoint alone I stopped shopping at PPCS when I found Pccoolings on Ebay.
> 
> 
> 
> Simple solution is to not buy from them.
Click to expand...

But by not buying from them your stifling competition which in return allows companies to charge more because they know they have a monopoly. Unless there is a clear cut violation of copy infringement or it somehow violates the very ethics you live by then boycotting competetion for straw man arguments is anti-capotilism.

Do we really want to get to a point where we pay $200 or more for an object that has been around for hundreds of years and allows us to bend tubes more easily?? I think water cooling is expensive enough personally, any company that can make it cheaper is good by me.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Out of all the real copy infringement out there that we can complain about lets not get hung up on a stupid jigs and circles. No disrespect to anyone here, but people build these same jigs everyday in their garage from home depot material and we don't castrate home depot for it. I can go 3D print those jigs right now and no one's electricity will be shut off and kids starve because of it. I love Monsoon and Barrow equally, but lets pick our our battles thoughtfully and concentrate on the real thief's out there stealing true intellectual and innovative property.


True dat!


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I work for a company that sells health and nutrition products. We calculate shipping based on weight of total items added to the box. Doesn't stop us from being the biggest scam ive ever seen up close. At least PPCs isn't turning our dollars into ferraris for someone unscrupulous. If I could get everything I want on ebay, great. But shipping per item is no crime in my book.


This is true lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Simple solution is to not buy from them.


I don't









I can go hit up Jeff Bezos website and find all the EK and Bitspower stuff I need.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I can go hit up Jeff Bezos website and find all the EK and Bitspower stuff I need.


Guess where we got our CEO from?

With Amazon, your money is definitely going to unscrupulous Ferraris.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Guess where we got our CEO from?
> 
> With Amazon, your money is definitely going to unscrupulous Ferraris.


Yeah, but that's what happens when your company is worth $85.5 Billion dollars. You buy airplanes, houses, islands, and you fly off and do some Hostile stuff - you know lol

But seriously, I bet the guys at EK themselves have some nice 7 series BMW's considering they are from Germany. Food for thought.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Yeah, but that's what happens when your company is worth $85.5 Billion dollars. You buy airplanes, houses, islands, and you fly off and do some Hostile stuff - you know lol
> 
> But seriously, I bet the guys at EK themselves have some nice 7 series BMW's considering they are from Germany. Food for thought.


I was really just trying to be funny. But B-Neg has asked us not to discuss shipping cost issues in the past and I shouldn't ignore that. It's a hard topic to stay away from sometimes.

EK is based in Slovenia iirc?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Yeah, but that's what happens when your company is worth $85.5 Billion dollars. You buy airplanes, houses, islands, and you fly off and do some Hostile stuff - you know lol
> 
> But seriously, I bet the guys at EK themselves have some nice 7 series BMW's considering they are from Germany. Food for thought.
> 
> 
> 
> I was really just trying to be funny. But B-Neg has asked us not to discuss shipping cost issues in the past and I shouldn't ignore that. It's a hard topic to stay away from sometimes.
> 
> EK is based in Slovenia iirc?
Click to expand...

Yeah, based in Slovenia.

EK-Company from Germany is totally different company though. http://www.ek-company.com/en/contact/corporate-offices/index.html


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I was really just trying to be funny. But B-Neg has asked us not to discuss shipping cost issues in the past and I shouldn't ignore that. It's a hard topic to stay away from sometimes.
> 
> EK is based in Slovenia iirc?


Yeah it's Slovenia, below Germany - I knew it was close, the Germans always make good stuff. In this case I would assume they would probably have Italian vehicles lol.

Pulled up in that brand new Fiat yo lol


----------



## Philwong

Rebuilding my loop soon.

Phil


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


I like that there Danger Den block. How is it?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I like that there Danger Den block. How is it?


It does good. I had them custom cut that block for me years ago and I stuck with it. Danger Den is like family to me, they were right up the road from my house. I know that the newer blocks provide better cooling for a specific chip but honestly my CPU never goes over 60c and it is running @ 4.4Ghz. I even have bench-marked at 4.6 and don't remember it going over 70c. no real world gains so I leave it at 4.4

Thanks
Nick


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> It does good. I had them custom cut that block for me years ago and I stuck with it. Danger Den is like family to me, they were right up the road from my house. I know that the newer blocks provide better cooling for a specific chip but honestly my CPU never goes over 60c and it is running @ 4.4Ghz. I even have bench-marked at 4.6 and don't remember it going over 70c. no real world gains so I leave it at 4.4
> 
> Thanks
> Nick


Ah! Nice!

Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> It does good. I had them custom cut that block for me years ago and I stuck with it. Danger Den is like family to me, they were right up the road from my house. I know that the newer blocks provide better cooling for a specific chip but honestly my CPU never goes over 60c and it is running @ 4.4Ghz. I even have bench-marked at 4.6 and don't remember it going over 70c. no real world gains so I leave it at 4.4
> 
> Thanks
> Nick


Did DangerousCustomCases ever launch? I gave up in the spring and never heard back from the chap. I so wanted a DW29, but after I got offered a TX10-D with pedestal, i went with this instead. I still love the DW29 (had a 21) design but I'm very happy with my gargantuan TX.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


Like the build very much, I really like the use of the tube on the GPU wires. Is that bent hard line? And how did you secure the other ends? Some type of bulkhead fitting?

And how did you get the SLI bridge to light up? I have two 970's and from all my research even those aren't high end enough to work with the bridge LED's? Am I missing something?


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Like the build very much, I really like the use of the tube on the GPU wires. Is that bent hard line? And how did you secure the other ends? Some type of bulkhead fitting?
> 
> And how did you get the SLI bridge to light up? I have two 970's and from all my research even those aren't high end enough to work with the bridge LED's? Am I missing something?


EVGA and other companies (ASUS, MSI) have light up SLi bridges. Everything higher than a GTX 960 should be able to light them up.


----------



## wermad

Gk110 also lights up? (Ie gtx 780, 780 ti, titan, titan be, titan z)


----------



## Kimir

The 780Ti does I guess since GeForce Experience says so.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did DangerousCustomCases ever launch? I gave up in the spring and never heard back from the chap. I so wanted a DW29, but after I got offered a TX10-D with pedestal, i went with this instead. I still love the DW29 (had a 21) design but I'm very happy with my gargantuan TX.


They haven't. They kept toying with the idea but I have not heard anything from them in a while. I also was really hoping they would come back to life. I have a build in the Tower 29 Danger Den case.

Nick


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> EVGA and other companies (ASUS, MSI) have light up SLi bridges. Everything higher than a GTX 960 should be able to light them up.


well yeah, mine are the EVGA, I was going to look into that more when I finished up the build. But luckily we live in a time when google is only a few clicks away and there are only three models of the EVGA GTX 970 that support the SLI bridge LED feature and my cards are not any of those three. Well wouldn't cha know. Learned something today.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Like the build very much, I really like the use of the tube on the GPU wires. Is that bent hard line? And how did you secure the other ends? Some type of bulkhead fitting?
> 
> And how did you get the SLI bridge to light up? I have two 970's and from all my research even those aren't high end enough to work with the bridge LED's? Am I missing something?


Thanks!

yes it is PETG tubing for the water cooling and I had some left over so I got creative and "sleeved" my sleeved cable with it









You might be able to see it in the other pictures in my build but I cut 1/2" holes in the case and put the tubes through the cut out in the motherboard tray. I considered getting fittings but the cost wasn't worth it.

If you would like I can try and take better pictures of the "pass-through".

Can see it here:



think @dilster97 covered the SLi bridge. I think I remember something a while back about people being upset that the bridges wouldn't light up on lower end cards. but I just bought this bridge cause I was sick of looking at the ribbon bridge.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> well yeah, mine are the EVGA, I was going to look into that more when I finished up the build. But luckily we live in a time when google is only a few clicks away and there are only three models of the EVGA GTX 970 that support the SLI bridge LED feature and my cards are not any of those three. Well wouldn't cha know. Learned something today.


You should take the bridge apart and wire the LED to a power plug. you can un-clip the wires to the LEDs really easy.







play it safe and try the 3.3v rail first


----------



## emsj86

I asked in another thread but just to be sure for alpha cool rad how long of screws would I need to mount the rad directly to the top of a case. I have th 30 and 35 length but obviously there for using with fans. Thanks guys


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I asked in another thread but just to be sure for alpha cool rad how long of screws would I need to mount the rad directly to the top of a case. I have th 30 and 35 length but obviously there for using with fans. Thanks guys


You should be able to use some screws that came with your case, the thread is M3 I used some case screws less than 5mm long. According to the Enthoo manual you have 20+ M3x5mm screws so use one of those.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> yes it is PETG tubing for the water cooling and I had some left over so I got creative and "sleeved" my sleeved cable with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might be able to see it in the other pictures in my build but I cut 1/2" holes in the case and put the tubes through the cut out in the motherboard tray. I considered getting fittings but the cost wasn't worth it.
> 
> If you would like I can try and take better pictures of the "pass-through".
> 
> Can see it here:
> 
> 
> 
> think @dilster97 covered the SLi bridge. I think I remember something a while back about people being upset that the bridges wouldn't light up on lower end cards. but I just bought this bridge cause I was sick of looking at the ribbon bridge.


I do like the look and it's given me an idea that I think would look great on if I do another build. I'm thinking that you could run some LED's or EL wire in those, close off the ends like a neon glass tube. You'd have a way to hide your wires in plain sight with a cool looking feature.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> You should take the bridge apart and wire the LED to a power plug. you can un-clip the wires to the LEDs really easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> play it safe and try the 3.3v rail first


I thought about that and I might do that, but I'm thinking I'm just going to get one that doesn't stand out.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I do like the look and it's given me an idea that I think would look great on if I do another build. I'm thinking that you could run some LED's or EL wire in those, close off the ends like a neon glass tube. You'd have a way to hide your wires in plain sight with a cool looking feature.
> I thought about that and I might do that, but I'm thinking I'm just going to get one that doesn't stand out.


I am glad that I have inspired you


----------



## Excession

Welp, I just got the stuff I ordered for my first water cooling loop. Yay! Sadly, I forgot to actually order the tubing along with everything else. At least Amazon has it with prime shipping.

Is there any particular order the water should flow through things? I only have a CPU block, a pump/res combo, and a single radiator.


----------



## DarthBaggins

res->pump then the rest is up to you


----------



## Solonowarion

Almost done.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> They haven't. They kept toying with the idea but I have not heard anything from them in a while. I also was really hoping they would come back to life. I have a build in the Tower 29 Danger Den case.
> 
> Nick


My first water cooling purchases were from DD as I am a NW resident and wanted to support a company from "home" rather than some low-life east coasters (haha). I wish they would come back to life too.


----------



## Excession

I'm putting my first, very simple, loop together this weekend. Does the order in which the water passes through the components make any real difference when you only have a cpu block, a pump/res combo, and a single radiator?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> I'm putting my first, very simple, loop together this weekend. Does the order in which the water passes through the components make any real difference when you only have a cpu block, a pump/res combo, and a single radiator?


Not really. As long as the resivior is higher than and feeds the pump, and you use the correct in/out ports for the blocks, which order you put the parts into the loop makes no difference.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Almost done.


Very, very noyce


----------



## SteezyTN

So is there anyway to silence a D5 pump at max RPM? I'm running two PWM D5's in my loop (2 loops), and I'm trying to run an ultra quiet PC with maxed out voltages and such. With my GPU loop of Titan X's, I notice about a 3-5c temp difference between 2500 RPM and 4700 RPM. I'm perfectly okay with running it at 2500 RPM and sacrificing that few degrees of temps, but is there anyway to silence the D5's? Is it possible I could've tighten the pump too hard to the res (pump/res combo)? Would loosening them up make it quieter?


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is BADD! Great work.....


----------



## BrjSan

Hey guys just need some help in my thread below if any one knows, Offtopic, hope someone can help me out

RAID Issue

peace


----------



## sinnedone

@ITDiva

Looks like you've inspired a new in win design.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> My first water cooling purchases were from DD as I am a NW resident and wanted to support a company from "home" rather than some low-life east coasters (haha). I wish they would come back to life too.


Very cool! Yeah I miss the good old days of going to their shop and cutting out cases and blocks for builds. it was truly sad when they shut down, for many reasons.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> @ITDiva
> 
> Looks like you've inspired a new in win design.


Wonder if my royalty check is in the mail . . . . . .























Not,

Darlene


----------



## rodaduck

honestly that is for me one of the best builds i have seen , im still working of my first build but if i can get half as good at craftsmanship as that would great , that is awesome..when im not even going to post any pics of mine ..thanks alot.hahah


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wonder if my royalty check is in the mail . . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not,
> 
> Darlene


Its not coming,im still waiting for mine from Swiftech for the GPU block......


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not coming,im still waiting for mine from Swiftech for the GPU block......


and I for the Supremacy MX... lol


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Build I did for Asus, it will be in Asus suite at CES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, its so beautiful...







EK has some cool looking stuff, can you give me a link to their webshop?


----------



## maybach123

so i have tested it out and primochills 1/2 inch fittings work with alphacools 13mm tubing hard line tubing


----------



## Bylias

Deleted


----------



## NRD

Finally got my build done and I'm testing it out. BF4 ultra @1080p 200% res scale 90-110 fps lol not bad for 3 290s @ 1130/1500. I think the extra PCI-e lanes on this X-99 board are finally paying off







I was only pulling ~900w from the wall as well with all 3 cards @ 100% usage. Still probably need more than my 1350W PSU for extreme benching, it's gonna be close. Anyone know how many watts an overclocked 5930k can pull? 250? Using 1.33v @ 4.5ghz atm.

  
Imgur album


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bylias*
> 
> Hi everybody!
> I bought a PC but I'd realy like too watercool it (actualy got a Noctua aircooler)
> About the Hardware I got this (if you need to know the other part of the hardware, just ask) :
> -GPU : 980 Ti from MSI (the non-reference model)
> -MoBo : Asus RoG Ranger VIII
> -CPU : I7 6700K
> -Case : SM8 in black
> 
> ~snip~
> 
> What do you think about this, and what should I change?
> 
> Thanks!


start a thread please. this is a 'club' thread and gallery for members to showcase their builds. it isnt a help thread.
thank you.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> Finally got my build done and I'm testing it out. BF4 ultra @1080p 200% res scale 90-110 fps lol not bad for 3 290s @ 1130/1500. I think the extra PCI-e lanes on this X-99 board are finally paying off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was only pulling ~900w from the wall as well with all 3 cards @ 100% usage. Still probably need more than my 1350W PSU for extreme benching, it's gonna be close. Anyone know how many watts an overclocked 5930k can pull? 250? Using 1.33v @ 4.5ghz atm.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As a Giants(MLB) fan, your build makes me smile.









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

Darkside LEDs and EK Supremacy EVO installed







Thanks to whoever recommended those two things.
crappy phone pic.



And something not so good. I used Isoprophy alcohol to clean the side of my rad..... and it took the paint OFF. WTH?? Now i'll have to repaint it next time it's out of the loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

You really should never use alcohol on paint. It takes sharpie off most surfaces.









~Ceadder


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Nice, its so beautiful...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK has some cool looking stuff, can you give me a link to their webshop?


http://bfy.tw/3cgf


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> http://bfy.tw/3cgf


Thanks.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> false
> http://bfy.tw/3cgf


lol... now i know. Anyways the paint was all scratched up so at the very least i found an easy way to remove it. Now i can just give it a nice new paint job.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> lol... now i know. Anyways the paint was all scratched up so at the very least i found an easy way to remove it. Now i can just give it a nice new paint job.


Lol very true, I would of recomended removing the old scratched up paint and repainting it anyway.


----------



## OGBeandip

Getting a loop ready for a build and wanted some input from you guys on the layout. I was thinking:

Res>pump>240rad>cpu>1080rad>gpu>gpu

Also im doing 2 reservoirs, should I run them serial or do a couple of Ts and run them parrallel. Using the dual pump EKWB D5 Revo.

Same question with GPU. Serial or Parallel?
Using 2 Titan Xs in Koolance waterblocks.

Im not too familiar with the pros and cons of serial vs parallel.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Getting a loop ready for a build and wanted some input from you guys on the layout. I was thinking:
> 
> Res>pump>240rad>cpu>1080rad>gpu>gpu
> 
> Also im doing 2 reservoirs, should I run them serial or do a couple of Ts and run them parrallel. Using the dual pump EKWB D5 Revo.
> 
> Same question with GPU. Serial or Parallel?
> Using 2 Titan Xs in Koolance waterblocks.
> 
> Im not too familiar with the pros and cons of serial vs parallel.


Doesn't matter, go with what looks better.


----------



## Hobbsmeerkat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Getting a loop ready for a build and wanted some input from you guys on the layout. I was thinking:
> 
> Res>pump>240rad>cpu>1080rad>gpu>gpu
> 
> Also im doing 2 reservoirs, should I run them serial or do a couple of Ts and run them parrallel. Using the dual pump EKWB D5 Revo.
> 
> Same question with GPU. Serial or Parallel?
> Using 2 Titan Xs in Koolance waterblocks.
> 
> Im not too familiar with the pros and cons of serial vs parallel.


Serial and parallel both work well, and will likely have little to no effect on your loop's overall performance.
Parallel does allow for lower in-line restriction by splitting the flow between the GPU's, which may be helpful if you use a variable speed pump on lower settings.

but as said above, you can pretty much go with what ever you think will look and work best for you.

The only real rule is making sure the pump is below the res and being fed directly by it.


----------



## AresTheGod

Hi, I just have a little question about the Black Ice SR2 Xtreme+ 480 MP Multi Port Radiator - Black Carbon ( http://hardwarelabs.com/sr2/products/black-ice-sr2-mp/sr2-480-mp ).
Do I nneed to buy fitting to close every port that I don't use?
Thanks!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hi, I just have a little question about the Black Ice SR2 Xtreme+ 480 MP Multi Port Radiator - Black Carbon ( http://hardwarelabs.com/sr2/products/black-ice-sr2-mp/sr2-480-mp ).
> Do I nneed to buy fitting to close every port that I don't use?
> Thanks!


Yes, but see if the included fittings work for you. Use fingers to tighten them down instead of a hex wrench for the hole in the middle.


----------



## D33G33

Just got the Bitspower FCB for the ASRoxk X99-ITX board. Will be included as part of my NCASE refresh.


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> Yes, but see if the included fittings work for you. Use fingers to tighten them down instead of a hex wrench for the hole in the middle.


Ok thanks!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Just got the Bitspower FCB for the ASRoxk X99-ITX board. Will be included as part of my NCASE refresh.


Holy moly, that FCB looks amazing, but the price is terrifying!

It's so sad all the awesome parts are being released after I bought my own parts back in September last year.

This is my Asrock X99 motherboard which I got done in December.

EKWB Supremacy Evo Nickel - clear, Monsoon fittings, heatshinks painted white. 128Gb Samsung sm951 NVMe SSD with custom acrylic.

I am very happy with mine


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hi, I just have a little question about the Black Ice SR2 Xtreme+ 480 MP Multi Port Radiator - Black Carbon ( http://hardwarelabs.com/sr2/products/black-ice-sr2-mp/sr2-480-mp ).
> Do I nneed to buy fitting to close every port that I don't use?
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but see if the included fittings work for you. Use fingers to tighten them down instead of a hex wrench for the hole in the middle.
Click to expand...

I don't think there's even a sailor alive who knows enough four letter expletives to adequately describe the cheap plastic port caps and the way the ports stick out past the main dimensions of the rads.

Awesome rads with a premium price to match, and then bastardized and castrated with those cheap plugs . . . . HWL needs to be smacked upside the head on that one.

And don't dare try to use the extra caps on anything else, . . . . . . the o rings are so soft and shred so easily, you'd have at least as good a result with cow flop, maybe even better.

The rads are awesome, but god only knows what the hell they were thinking on the ports/caps.

Darlene


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Holy moly, that FCB looks amazing, but the price is terrifying!
> 
> It's so sad all the awesome parts are being released after I bought my own parts back in September last year.
> 
> This is my Asrock X99 motherboard which I got done in December.
> 
> EKWB Supremacy Evo Nickel - clear, Monsoon fittings, heatshinks painted white. 128Gb Samsung sm951 NVMe SSD with custom acrylic.
> 
> I am very happy with mine


Nice,

Well... let me tell you about my build.

NCASE v2, wanted that Shuttle X79 motherboard but couldn't source one
Did full build as Z97 with 4790k and H100i
ASRock X99 board gets released.
Rebuild with 5820k, mobo, ram
Currently running a Kelvin S24 (modified AMD mount to work) + GPU block + 2nd 240mm radiator but pump isn't really strong enough
Nothing fits because of the STRIX 980
Swapping GPU and rebuilding again...


----------



## wermad

Waiting for parts is a pain.............









Here's a little snapshot of what I got:



Missing plugs I ordered and some more tubing. Gonna try to gently bend the led's with some heat. Hopefully, i don't snap the pins.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Waiting for parts is a pain.............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a little snapshot of what I got:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Missing plugs I ordered and some more tubing. Gonna try to gently bend the led's with some heat. Hopefully, i don't snap the pins.


Nice build! I am using those same LED plugs (I love them). I put those poor cables through abuse. I mean - abuse... You should be fine bending them around.

Using blue this time around











*edit* Pro Tip - Use a dab of hot glue to hold in the bulb.


----------



## wermad

Very nice illumination! I thought about hot glue but the bulbs do hold tight on the bp plugs. I just don't like the long stem of the led's stick up and prefer to bend them. Thanks for the tips


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very nice illumination! I thought about hot glue but the bulbs do hold tight on the bp plugs. I just don't like the long stem of the led's stick up and prefer to bend them. Thanks for the tips


NP. I was using white before, which looked great with the clear water. But I think I am much more fond of the colored water. I love Mayhems pastels, but it is a lot of maintenance, plus clear water is easier. Gives it a nice glow. Our payroll coordinator thought I was using ice cold water that was blue lol. Good luck on the rest of your build!

*edit* I did have a good bend before. I had my ressie shoved between the HDD cage and Drive Bay cage (it fit pretty tight too) in my Phantom 410 ,without any support. I had to bend mine as well, then slide it in without tearing out the wires. Needless to say, they worked until they became dim after months of constant use. Now I ripped out the Drive Bay and mounted the ressie using the support with some 2 sided tape on my side panel. Much more room to breathe lol

Here is how I had it in there lol


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ThatGuy16

My budget cooling LOL ... I want to hard pipe it one of these days


----------



## mr. biggums

Got to love these cool canadian nights, had my window cracked open for a bit to air out my place


----------



## ThatGuy16

Where do I get those LED plugs?? Would look pretty sweet on my res


----------



## zubzero689

just finished the modding the old system with some new parts


----------



## hidethecookies

Leak testing my first custom loop in a modded 400r case.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Leak testing my first custom loop in a modded 400r case.


Your brave. When I leak test my rig looks like one big roll of Brawny!


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Your brave. When I leak test my rig looks like one big roll of Brawny!


Thats why you air test first.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Your brave. When I leak test my rig looks like one big roll of Brawny!


You guys are hilarious. Just throw a single towel down for the night.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Your brave. When I leak test my rig looks like one big roll of Brawny!
> 
> 
> 
> Thats why you air test first.
Click to expand...

I prefer to leak test once and be up and running sooner. Less hassle and less equipment. Imo lots of people over complicate water cooling way too much.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I prefer to leak test once and be up and running sooner. Less hassle and less equipment. Imo lots of people over complicate water cooling way too much.


Over complicate? If I have a leak with air I go right to fixing it not draining water fix leak then refill to see if its fixed. How is that more complicated?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Your brave. When I leak test my rig looks like one big roll of Brawny!


Hehe, I think I would give the majority a heart attack. I just straight turn it on and go. No towels or paper towels.







Then again, I'm crazy with barbs, I tend to take tools to them.


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Leak testing my first custom loop in a modded 400r case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your brave. When I leak test my rig looks like one big roll of Brawny!
Click to expand...

whats a leak test I just put it together and go if you did it right your ok. If somethings going to fail well don't use barbs with out a clamp or ziptie


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> If somethings going to fail well don't use barbs with out a clamp or ziptie


every part in your loop can fail, not just the barbs. and yes, it has happened.


----------



## SteezyTN

I guess after spending close to $8k, I can finally say theres no possible way to have the best and fastest system AND have it completely or close to being quiet lol.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Leak testing my first custom loop in a modded 400r case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your brave. When I leak test my rig looks like one big roll of Brawny!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> whats a leak test I just put it together and go if you did it right your ok. If somethings going to fail well don't use barbs with out a clamp or ziptie
Click to expand...

I have never had a leak (yet!) because of a bad fitting. So far my leaks have been due to faulty components (leaky Alphacool rad) or user error, as in I installed fittings without the o-rings -- more than once. So, I air test, then leak test.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Over complicate? If I have a leak with air I go right to fixing it not draining water fix leak then refill to see if its fixed. How is that more complicated?


Exactly,air testing is fast and mess free,if you are not airtesting then,quite frankly,you are doing it wrong....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> every part in your loop can fail, not just the barbs. and yes, it has happened.


Yup.

And saying you are not scared 'because you built it right' is just foolish.


----------



## Nick the Slick

Just a few cosmetic changes. Moved my 240 rad from bottom to front to get rid of the ugly long run to it from the CPU and put my PSU cover in. Think it looks much better now







. Only things left now as far as I'm concerned are to change the white fan in the back (not pictured) to a black fan and probably start using some Mayhem's oil black coolant. Been contemplating going hardline too but still not sure about that. Any other suggestions?


----------



## rodaduck

im finishing my first water cooled build that is also my first build and while commenting on air testing i have posted some updated pics , and was concerned about leaks and read awile ago on this forum of someone air testing before water testing , and it makes complete sense ! i im doing a custom build and i am using alphacool brass tube that is black chrome plated , but instead of using compression fitting i have cut and threaded each tube so it is a direct connect to the fittings and look cleaner then the compression fittings , but that leaves the challenge of sealing the joints , i got that handled . i have been test each section with air and when the loop is finished ill check with air again ..so for i have fixed multiple leaks some as dumb as for getting to put o-ring on fitting , if it was not for air test i would of been draining and fixing many times , now i will be much more confident when i do the final water leak test , the air tester i put together for under 10 dollars.
these are pics of were i am at and were i mm heading , received more tube today so im getting close just need to finish making sure i am "AIR" tight and then "WATER" tight , some new pads on one of the titan blacks and its ready to roll , well almost have to modify my shelf were its going dont want all that weight bringing the house down.. last thing as a noob i am suggest to other noobs and even not noobs air test your system it has already paid off for me , most will not be as complicated as my build but its pretty damn easy to get excited about get your build done and forgetting a o rin











g


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly,air testing is fast and mess free,if you are not airtesting then,quite frankly,you are doing it wrong....
> Yup.


This means alot coming from someone that I look up to! Your builds are top notch B-Neg.


----------



## VeritronX

Having second thoughts about modding the H55, the tubing it comes with is about the same outside diameter as the 3/8 barbs I was thinking of using. Black 1/4 barbs seem hard to come by here in Australia too.

With the vardar fan on it it's actually a bit overkill as it comes anyways, keeping the spare i7 920 at less than 60C at 3.7ghz 1.25v and less than 70C at 4ghz 1.35v with the fan sitting at a bit under 1600rpm and pump full speed at 1500rpm.


----------



## Dave6531

Its been slow progress but progress is being made.


----------



## slowbro69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hehe, I think I would give the majority a heart attack. I just straight turn it on and go. No towels or paper towels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then again, I'm crazy with barbs, I tend to take tools to them.


That is what I do lol


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly,air testing is fast and mess free,if you are not airtesting then,quite frankly,you are doing it wrong....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hehe, I think I would give the majority a heart attack. I just straight turn it on and go. No towels or paper towels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then again, I'm crazy with barbs, I tend to take tools to them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowbro69*
> 
> That is what I do lol


Me too. I only get to do this once in a while so it's more exciting if there is a possibility for catastrophic failure and wasted time.


----------



## AresTheGod

Hi, just another question, does this fittings (http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/matt-black/bitspower-enhance-45-degree-dual-multi-link-adapter-matt-black-bp-mbe45dml.html) is compatible with, like a WB, or it's only compatible with Bitspower's acrylic tubes?
Thanks!


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hi, just another question, does this fittings (http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/matt-black/bitspower-enhance-45-degree-dual-multi-link-adapter-matt-black-bp-mbe45dml.html) is compatible with, like a WB, or it's only compatible with Bitspower's acrylic tubes?
> Thanks!


It's only compatible with hard tube (doesn't have to be Bitspower as longs as the OD matches). You would need one with a 1/4" thread on one end to screw into the block. You would need a hard line fitting to screw into this one though.

EDIT: Here's a link to an enhanced 45-degree that doesn't require an extra fitting. I did not see these on the other site though.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> cool i'll go ahead and order that.
> Are they dimmable? I plugged my superbrightleds strip into my Aquero and i'm able to dim it.


Darkside makes some good stuff, but if you live in the US, ordering straight from Daz will cost a lot to ship. Joe, at ModMyMods, also carries the Darkside line, but since he's in the US, the shipping costs will be a lot less.


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> It's only compatible with hard tube (doesn't have to be Bitspower as longs as the OD matches). You would need one with a 1/4" thread on one end to screw into the block. You would need a hard line fitting to screw into this one though.
> 
> EDIT: Here's a link to an enhanced 45-degree that doesn't require an extra fitting. I did not see these on the other site though.


Thanks for your answer!
I might consider the first option...
But anyway thanks for the tip!









Found it on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.fr/International-bitspower-multi-adapter-45%C2%B0-pivotant/dp/B011ZC4RUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452530783&sr=8-1&keywords=+%09BP-MBE45RML ) but don't know if it is worth it?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its harder...on your wallet....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: least you guys won't have to chamfer more ends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My hands are sore, even with a hand sander.


I'm working on my first build using acrylic tubing, and I bought a Monsoon cutting kit, which is basically a hacksaw and a miter box to hold the tubing and make a straight cut. I find this very tedious, time consuming, and sometimes, when halfway through cutting, the hacksaw sticks and my tubing ends up coming out uneven. So, then I have to sand it down a good bit before I chamfer the pieces.

I've used my dremel tool with the plastic cutting disks before to cut sheets of acrylic. Can I use this to cut the tubing also? I'm just trying to find an easier way so I can make a little more progress. Whenever I used it to cut acrylic sheets, I usually set it on a low setting and score it back and forth instead of trying to cut straight through. Sometimes I'll score it enough to where it breaks easily and sometimes I'll just keep cutting along the score line until its gone all the way through. Is something like this possible for cutting the acrylic tubing? I need to find a more effective way to cut it than doing it by hand with a hacksaw.

Let me know if anyone has had success doing it this way or if anyone has any alternatives. The hacksaw isn't cutting it (no pun intended).


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Why not just use a tubing cutter?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its harder...on your wallet....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: least you guys won't have to chamfer more ends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My hands are sore, even with a hand sander.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm working on my first build using acrylic tubing, and I bought a Monsoon cutting kit, which is basically a hacksaw and a miter box to hold the tubing and make a straight cut. I find this very tedious, time consuming, and sometimes, when halfway through cutting, the hacksaw sticks and my tubing ends up coming out uneven. So, then I have to sand it down a good bit before I chamfer the pieces.
> 
> I've used my dremel tool with the plastic cutting disks before to cut sheets of acrylic. Can I use this to cut the tubing also? I'm just trying to find an easier way so I can make a little more progress. Whenever I used it to cut acrylic sheets, I usually set it on a low setting and score it back and forth instead of trying to cut straight through. Sometimes I'll score it enough to where it breaks easily and sometimes I'll just keep cutting along the score line until its gone all the way through. Is something like this possible for cutting the acrylic tubing? I need to find a more effective way to cut it than doing it by hand with a hacksaw.
> 
> Let me know if anyone has had success doing it this way or if anyone has any alternatives. The hacksaw isn't cutting it (no pun intended).
Click to expand...

The trick to using a miter box is to let up on the pressure of the saw when you get close to the end of the cut and going through the material. Continuing to add pressure to the saw is what makes the material, especially acrylic, crack and snap. When you get close to the end let up on the pressure and let the blade finish the cut, not force.

Edit: It also helps to cover the cut line in blue painters tape when cutting.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> cool i'll go ahead and order that.
> Are they dimmable? I plugged my superbrightleds strip into my Aquero and i'm able to dim it.
> 
> 
> 
> Darkside makes some good stuff, but if you live in the US, ordering straight from Daz will cost a lot to ship. Joe, at ModMyMods, also carries the Darkside line, but since he's in the US, the shipping costs will be a lot less.
Click to expand...

Performance PCs carries Darkside. So if they don't have a specific kit item, drop them a request to fill your needs.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Why not just use a tubing cutter?


Cutters leave marks on hardline. So if you use one, make sure to put some painters tape on the tube at the cutter side of things.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

My google game must be off. Anyone have a picture of bits power 16mm enhanced fittings on a 90. I want to see if it will look to bulky as than I think I may just go with 12mm. I would rather go 16mm tubing as I like the bigger look and I plan on doing all straight runs so no bending expect one under the acrylic floor which won't be seen


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Nice build! I am using those same LED plugs (I love them). I put those poor cables through abuse. I mean - abuse... You should be fine bending them around.
> 
> Using blue this time around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* Pro Tip - Use a dab of hot glue to hold in the bulb.


Are you saying use hot glue to hold the LEDs in the holes? I've been having a problem with that. Just about every waterblock I have has a hole for an LED and I'm getting very frustrated trying to get them all to stay. If you use hot glue, how easy are they to remove? I bought UV LEDs to go with the UV coolant I have, and I bought white LEDs to go with the pastel coolant I bought. So I want to be able to try out each to see which looks best. I don't want to get the LEDs stuck forever. Also, any idea where I can buy some of the small pieces of tape that comes with temperature probes? I figured that would be the best thing to use to hold the wires exactly where I want to run them.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Are you saying use hot glue to hold the LEDs in the holes? I've been having a problem with that. Just about every waterblock I have has a hole for an LED and I'm getting very frustrated trying to get them all to stay. If you use hot glue, how easy are they to remove? I bought UV LEDs to go with the UV coolant I have, and I bought white LEDs to go with the pastel coolant I bought. So I want to be able to try out each to see which looks best. I don't want to get the LEDs stuck forever. Also, any idea where I can buy some of the small pieces of tape that comes with temperature probes? I figured that would be the best thing to use to hold the wires exactly where I want to run them.


silicone

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Why not just use a tubing cutter?


Doesnt work on acrylic.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> My google game must be off. Anyone have a picture of bits power 16mm enhanced fittings on a 90. I want to see if it will look to bulky as than I think I may just go with 12mm. I would rather go 16mm tubing as I like the bigger look and I plan on doing all straight runs so no bending expect one under the acrylic floor which won't be seen


----------



## ssateneth

This is not the cleanest case, and technically still water cooling (well, mostly water)

Cold wisconsin air, outside radiator.. yup, this happens.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssateneth*
> 
> This is not the cleanest case, and technically still water cooling (well, mostly water)
> 
> Cold wisconsin air, outside radiator.. yup, this happens.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn, I hope nothing got fried.


----------



## ssateneth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Damn, I hope nothing got fried.


Nah, it's working fine. I'm on that PC as we speak, still very icy on the outside. The coolant is ethanol (graves 190 proof neutral spirits) and water, good to about -40C


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssateneth*
> 
> Nah, it's working fine. I'm on that PC as we speak, still very icy on the outside. The coolant is ethanol (graves 190 proof neutral spirits) and water, good to about -40C


I wasn't really worried about the coolant freezing. I'm talking about the frost and condensation on the blocks, if that leaks onto the pcb's it might fry something.


----------



## ssateneth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I wasn't really worried about the coolant freezing. I'm talking about the frost and condensation on the blocks, if that leaks onto the pcb's it might fry something.


Yeah I'm aware of that aspect too. I like to live dangerously







. But really, if the weather gets to a point where there will be some defrosting, i'll turn off the system and soak up all the juices with some cloth.


----------



## pc-illiterate

how long has it been running alcohol? i doubt theres much to worry about but i know you dont want to run isopropyl alcohol in a system with acrylic. the alcohol causes the acrylic to turn into a t-rex and eat your system...


----------



## rodaduck

that kit is a damn joke i bought it as well , and the same thing happened to me


----------



## rodaduck

do not use superglue!!!! just saying someone i know did that .not saying who that is ..hahah


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone have a picture of bits power 16mm enhanced fittings on a 90


Check out my build log in my sig for more examples.

I much prefer the look of 16mm tubing especially in a larger case.


----------



## ssateneth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> how long has it been running alcohol? i doubt theres much to worry about but i know you dont want to run isopropyl alcohol in a system with acrylic. the alcohol causes the acrylic to turn into a t-rex and eat your system...


I'm not using isopropyl alcohol. I am using using ethyl alcohol, AKA ethanol. You know, the stuff you guys like to get smashed your asses off of. I did some research on the 'hotness' of the various alcohols and their reactions to acrylics / plexiglass, and ethyl alcohol seemed to be the most tame option. I had been running a propylene glycol and water solution before, but it gets insanely viscous at low temperatures, causing a huge temperature difference between outside ambient and actual coolant temperatures. Plus PG + water ruined my koolance quick disconnects, crusting them up with a white chalky substance.

The only hiccups I've had so far are cold boot issues (BIOS code 71 on reboot or power cycle, unless I let the PC sit for a minute completely unplugged), and an inexplicable source of air bubbles through the loop. The loop has had tons of time to bleed, weeks even. I did find that one of my rotating compression fittings had a loose enough joint that air could be sucked in, though liquid could not get out, plus my choice of tubing (norprene) was not a good fit for compression fittings, so I changed up all the fitting to straight barbs and hose clamps. The air bubble problem isn't nearly as bad anymore, but still there.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

anyone use this yet? Lian-Li CB-01B HydrOC CPU Block


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> anyone use this yet? Lian-Li CB-01B HydrOC CPU Block


Don't think there is anything official yet but I think I remember seeing a comment by geggeg that it was average at best in some preliminary tests.


----------



## emsj86

thank you. tubing looks bigger than i thought (thats what she said) hmmm debating


----------



## Recr3ational

I finally finished my Ebay, budget HTPC.
I'm liking barrows fittings.


----------



## Georgey123

^ Im digging the white and orange in that build.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Are you saying use hot glue to hold the LEDs in the holes? I've been having a problem with that. Just about every waterblock I have has a hole for an LED and I'm getting very frustrated trying to get them all to stay. If you use hot glue, how easy are they to remove? I bought UV LEDs to go with the UV coolant I have, and I bought white LEDs to go with the pastel coolant I bought. So I want to be able to try out each to see which looks best. I don't want to get the LEDs stuck forever. Also, any idea where I can buy some of the small pieces of tape that comes with temperature probes? I figured that would be the best thing to use to hold the wires exactly where I want to run them.


Yeah once you put the LED in the hole. Dab it with hot glue. Hot glue is really easy to remove, it just peels off. Silicone is good to, but it leaves a residue behind where hot glue does not. I keep sticks of hot glue where I modify every electronic I get my hands on. Controllers, toy cars, computers. Everything can be modded with LEDs







and hot glue is non conductive.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> ^ Im digging the white and orange in that build.


Thanks, if was so hard to buy everything that was matching. All the parts in the build is used.
Ebay is a pain to buy from.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> I finally finished my Ebay, budget HTPC.
> I'm liking barrows fittings.


Do you have a list of parts? My cousin wants an el cheapo.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Do you have a list of parts? My cousin wants an el cheapo.


My sig has all the parts I used.
(the third one)


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Thanks for your answer!
> I might consider the first option...
> But anyway thanks for the tip!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found it on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.fr/International-bitspower-multi-adapter-45%C2%B0-pivotant/dp/B011ZC4RUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452530783&sr=8-1&keywords=+%09BP-MBE45RML ) but don't know if it is worth it?


If you need the 45 I think it would be. This makes it one piece, so less likely to leak. It would probably be a little cheaper than buying one with a 1/4" thread and another fitting. You could also bend the tube if you wanted that instead of using a fitting. It's hard to visualize what you are trying to accomplish without pics of where you are putting it though.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Yeah once you put the LED in the hole. Dab it with hot glue. Hot glue is really easy to remove, it just peels off. Silicone is good to, but it leaves a residue behind where hot glue does not. I keep sticks of hot glue where I modify every electronic I get my hands on. Controllers, toy cars, computers. Everything can be modded with LEDs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and hot glue is non conductive.


Awesome! That's exactly what I need. I bought a tube of silicone, but the LEDs keep coming out of the bottom of my GPU waterblocks. I'll have to go buy one today.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> I finally finished my Ebay, budget HTPC.
> I'm liking barrows fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice little build there. How much that cost ya? Trying to go budget with my Dad's build since he don't game and basically browse or watch videos. Plus, its sad to keep seeing that Compact Splash so empty that I bought for him.


----------



## rodaduck

posting this because on my build im at the point of trying to get my gpu cable sleeved and finished , i started months ago , but broke my pin extractor and then got pissed off because of some cable combs that were messing up my sleeves so fast forward to now and being almost done and then i realized ,crap there is not enough room to get my cable in single sleeve to were my psu is and it look clean , and i did not want shrink tube i wanted shrink less so this is what i came up with shrink less bulk sleeve save a tone of room and will still look clean ..what a difference in the size there will be 2 of the skinny ones per gpu


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Why not just use a tubing cutter?


A tubing cutter works perfectly on PETG (Bitspower even has one), and leaves a clean cut that seldom needs sanding, but it will shatter acrylic.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Nice little build there. How much that cost ya? Trying to go budget with my Dad's build since he don't game and basically browse or watch videos. Plus, its sad to keep seeing that Compact Splash so empty that I bought for him.


CPU: £20ish
CPU block:£20
Mobo: £6
Gpu:£50?
GPU block:£10
Ram was free from my old build. Aswell as the radiator and fans.
PSU: £19 (best win on eBay ever. I'm sure it was new too.)

Fittings, tubing and reservoir was new.
About £70 for all. Not bad for a quiet and decent rig.

So about £200 for everything. Give or take a few quid. I can probably make a better rig with the money but I have to have a watercooled PC now.


----------



## lukevipno1

i7 5820k 4.8Ghz 1.38V
Gigabyte X99 SOC Champion
16GB DDR4 Kingston Fury 2666C15/3000C15
Zotac Omega 970 sli 1498/7800
Crucial MX100 256Gb
Seagate 2TB
Silverstone RV02
Aerocool Strike-X 1100W Gold
GPU Water Cooling Loop | Magicool 540mm/35mm | 3xSilverstone 181 180mm | Alphacool Laing D5 | Monsoon D5 premium reservoir | Lamptron FC2
CPU Water Cooling Loop | Alphacool NexXxoS triple 180mm/45mm | 6x Enermax Apollish 180mm | Alphacool Laing D5 | Alphacool Single Repack | EK Suppremacy EVO
Acer CB280HK 2160p


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> posting this because on my build im at the point of trying to get my gpu cable sleeved and finished , i started months ago , but broke my pin extractor and then got pissed off because of some cable combs that were messing up my sleeves so fast forward to now and being almost done and then i realized ,crap there is not enough room to get my cable in single sleeve to were my psu is and it look clean , and i did not want shrink tube i wanted shrink less so this is what i came up with shrink less bulk sleeve save a tone of room and will still look clean ..what a difference in the size there will be 2 of the skinny ones per gpu


You do know you can take 2 normal size staples and make 1 side straight like an L shape and use those as pin extractors? I've always used staples. The trick is holding the single wire and pushing up as you push both staples down. Also, I used a lighter to melt the end by the connector and rolled them with my finger, basically creating a permanent attachment to the pin, then slid it right into the connector, no sleeving needed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Stples are fine but they left my fingers sore so I broke down and bought a $12 extractor 4 years ago and it still works well. You just can't be ham fisted about it. An extractor(even a cheap one) should last you nearly forever.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

Hi, i don't have anything crazy like some people i see in here on this rig, the case is wayyy too small to do anything...does this count as watercooling? The GPU water block takes up half the case, literally.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> CPU: £20ish
> CPU block:£20
> Mobo: £6
> Gpu:£50?
> GPU block:£10
> Ram was free from my old build. Aswell as the radiator and fans.
> PSU: £19 (best win on eBay ever. I'm sure it was new too.)
> 
> Fittings, tubing and reservoir was new.
> About £70 for all. Not bad for a quiet and decent rig.
> 
> So about £200 for everything. Give or take a few quid. I can probably make a better rig with the money but I have to have a watercooled PC now.


Darn, not bad at all. That like a little over 300 bucks in US dollars. Kind of the range I'm looking to do my Dad's rig. Seems I need to do a little more lurking about on ebay for parts.


----------



## rodaduck

that seems like it would work but i was already vested in the kit , and a razer blade works pretty good,as far as sleeving i do the same heat and roll it , but on this build the issue is space and getting to the psu , i comoff the mobo or the gpu and all the wires have to sqeez behind the front rad and there is not much room because that is were everything is running

you see how close it all is and i have to get through the wall to the psu and im tryingh to show as little wire as possible , but that stable idea ill keep in mind im sure it will come in handy


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Hi, i don't have anything crazy like some people i see in here on this rig, the case is wayyy too small to do anything...does this count as watercooling? The GPU water block takes up half the case, literally.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking pretty good there buddy.


----------



## Benjiw

Does anyone know anyone selling some SOC-Force motherboard waterblocks? Or even an Z97 SOC Force with the blocks?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Check out my build log in my sig for more examples.
> 
> I much prefer the look of 16mm tubing especially in a larger case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Only Reason I don't care for 16mm fittings is that it has a lip. Instead of being flush with the middle part of the fitting, it overlaps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Hi, i don't have anything crazy like some people i see in here on this rig, the case is wayyy too small to do anything...does this count as watercooling? The GPU water block takes up half the case, literally.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That a PC 05s? Looking good. Not particular fond of the swiftech, but it works









TCO


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking pretty good there buddy.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That a PC 05s? Looking good. Not particular fond of the swiftech, but it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yes it is the PC 05S. The Swiftech is the only thing i could fit in here, i had a custom loop for it but there was no way to make it work, check out the 780Ti, it's half the size of the case..i've never seen anything like this before. Fast card though so i'm not complaining


----------



## RedFretFred

Hi everybody. The world can finally see and laugh at my dirty build! A modified Corsair Carbide 300R case.


Version 2 (complete). 16 fans controlled in groups by AI Suite 3. When I'm not gaming, only 4 fans are spinning. The previous build is below.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Version 1. 6 fans attached are directly to radiators. I ditched the inside ghetto rigged fans in the version 2 build. Added more rad fans, and 2 side panel mounted fans in ver. 2.


Version 2 in construction. That's about as close the fans of the rad will come to the 7950's. The push fans and the accompanying fan shrouds aren't installed on the rad here yet.

Just having a single MCP655 pump run the whole loop has proven to be sufficient since version 1. The MCP355 is still connected, but off. I will turn it on in the future.


----------



## Benjiw

Why do you have dual stacked fans everywhere?


----------



## Kimir

It's not stacked fan, it's shroud. Needed for eloop in pull to avoid weird noise, elsewhere not really I think.


----------



## wermad

Finally finished the loop, though a few runs need some tweaking due to the new mb:


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Only Reason I don't care for 16mm fittings is that it has a lip. Instead of being flush with the middle part of the fitting, it overlaps.


I agree - I ended using their L-Blocks for the majority of my 90 degree bends as they seem to suit the BP-EML16's way better than their standard elbow's.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> I finally finished my Ebay, budget HTPC.
> I'm liking barrows fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Looks clean & not over crowded in the tiny case.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Hi, i don't have anything crazy like some people i see in here on this rig, the case is wayyy too small to do anything...does this count as watercooling? The GPU water block takes up half the case, literally.


Is that a lian li?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Is that a lian li?


Yes. It's a PC-O5X.
http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/pc-o5/


----------



## gree

I have the 07s, with a 980ti and 5930k. Gonna try and watercool it


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice! Looks clean & not over crowded in the tiny case.


Thanks mate. You should see the back with the extensions lol.
Looks like an earthquake.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Hi, i don't have anything crazy like some people i see in here on this rig, the case is wayyy too small to do anything...does this count as watercooling? The GPU water block takes up half the case, literally.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You did a great job. It's a very clean build and you used the space well.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> You did a great job. It's a very clean build and you used the space well.


Thank you! I love this case, it's challenging to build and it's unique in a sense of how the video card is mounted. I don't think this video card can be mounted the traditional way as it weighs at least 3-4lbs, it would surely break the PCI slot over time. I wish there were room to run a hard line return but i've tried everything and it would not work, the pump res or the ram or the PSU just gets in the way.


----------



## RedFretFred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It's not stacked fan, it's shroud. Needed for eloop in pull to avoid weird noise, elsewhere not really I think.


Yes, that's right. I don't need the shrouds for the e-loops in push configuration. It's hard to see in the picture, but those e-loops on the top rad sit on 1/2 inch thick pads. The side panel mounted eloops (not shown) also use some pads to prevent the undesired noise. Aside from that, I just went crazy with the shroud installation for little to modest gains in performance.

With the same amount of money for the shrouds, I could have easily fitted another 360mm radiator on the back of my case! /notserious


----------



## PedroC1999

On a Prodigy M, what are the chnaces of fitting two AIO's? One 120mm and one 240mm?


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> On a Prodigy M, what are the chnaces of fitting two AIO's? One 120mm and one 240mm?


Pretty high. You might have slight clearance issue with the 120 at the back and CPU block.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm curious. I have a D5 PWM pump in my loop, and I want to add more flow to the loop. I have a D5 vario and I may add it to the loop.

When you have multiple pumps in a single loop, can the pumps run at different speeds, or do they have to be ran at the same speeds? For example, can I run the pwm at 100% and the vario at 50%?


----------



## RedFretFred

You can run them at different speeds, no problemo.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedFretFred*
> 
> You can run them at different speeds, no problemo.


Or you know, just match the PWM pump's rpm to that of the vario where you're satisfied with the noise level. Running two pumps at different speeds, while it may be theoretically possible, doesn't make much sense in practice.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Hi, i don't have anything crazy like some people i see in here on this rig, the case is wayyy too small to do anything...does this count as watercooling? The GPU water block takes up half the case, literally.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work on that







Seeing it really makes me want to try and finish mine off, plenty of inspirational builds in the case going on around here


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally finished the loop, though a few runs need some tweaking due to the new mb:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know you will have some serious rad to back this up, but going from CPU direct to TWO 295x2... that is going to be a massive heat accumulation on load lol.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I know you will have some serious rad to back this up, but going from CPU direct to TWO 295x2... that is going to be a massive heat accumulation on load lol.


My understanding of it is that water temp normally more or less equalizes across a loop. I'd be surprised if the delta between the point right before the CPU and the point after the second GPU was more than 15-20C. With smaller GPUs akin to the 970, the delta would be much more modest, along the lines of 5-7 degrees, maybe less. I don't really see what the problem with going from one block "directly" to another would be.


----------



## FuriousPop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Or you know, just match the PWM pump's rpm to that of the vario where you're satisfied with the noise level. Running two pumps at different speeds, while it may be theoretically possible, doesn't make much sense in practice.


i have 2x D5's in my loop. 1 is at setting 4 and the other at setting 3.... 2x480 rads and 4 blocks - placed them in appropriate positions and when i was bleeding i could see and hear the difference when the 2nd pump was turned on.. the 1st pump on setting 3 alone was enough to push coolant throughout the entire system, but then again i dont want the pump to be over stressed hence y i put a 2nd in the loop, +1 year running so far, so good


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I know you will have some serious rad to back this up, but going from CPU direct to TWO 295x2... that is going to be a massive heat accumulation on load lol.
> 
> 
> 
> My understanding of it is that water temp normally more or less equalizes across a loop. I'd be surprised if the delta between the point right before the CPU and the point after the second GPU was more than 15-20C. With smaller GPUs akin to the 970, the delta would be much more modest, along the lines of 5-7 degrees, maybe less. I don't really see what the problem with going from one block "directly" to another would be.
Click to expand...

The only way a system doesn't equalize in temps is to have a Radiator directly after each block. Even then the temps will eventually stabilize at a consistent temp.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I know you will have some serious rad to back this up, but going from CPU direct to TWO 295x2... that is going to be a massive heat accumulation on load lol.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> *My understanding of it is that water temp normally more or less equalizes across a loop.* I'd be surprised if the delta between the point right before the CPU and the point after the second GPU was more than 15-20C. With smaller GPUs akin to the 970, the delta would be much more modest, along the lines of 5-7 degrees, maybe less. I don't really see what the problem with going from one block "directly" to another would be.
Click to expand...

This.

Its a big misconception. A few years back I took four GTX 480s oc'd to a chunky 965Mhz, i7 3820 @ 4.8, 1800w at the wall while benching. There was a 0.01 (iirc) difference in temps between the cpu first and the cpu after the gpu's. There have been a few other guys/gals that have tested this as well and the outcome is pretty much the same. So, in all, order don't matter in terms of thermals, only suggestion as far as order, is to keep the res before the pump to avoid running the pump "dry".


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> My understanding of it is that water temp normally more or less equalizes across a loop. I'd be surprised if the delta between the point right before the CPU and the point after the second GPU was more than 15-20C. With smaller GPUs akin to the 970, the delta would be much more modest, along the lines of 5-7 degrees, maybe less. I don't really see what the problem with going from one block "directly" to another would be.


It's nothing like that. At a reasonable 4lpm flow rate it takes about 270W to change water temp by 1C. If you have a system putting 750W of heat into the coolant then the maximum temp difference between the coolest and warmest point would be 3C.

That assumes all heat sources grouped together and all rads grouped together. If there is any interspaceing the difference is obviously lower.

Halve the flow rate and the temp delta doubles. Double the heat input and the delta doubles.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Or you know, just match the PWM pump's rpm to that of the vario where you're satisfied with the noise level. Running two pumps at different speeds, while it may be theoretically possible, doesn't make much sense in practice.


Because the impellers of Laing pumps are individually balanced there can be real differences as to what particular speeds are the smoothest and quietest. To have the system as quiet as possible can mean different speeds on the pumps.
Other than that, yeah it doesn't really gain you anything but doesn't hurt either.

However, when you have a vario and a remotely controlled pump like a pwm or USB it can be convenient to run the vario at a quiet mid speed and the controllable pump can adjust flow rate by a useful range by itself


----------



## DaClownie

Where'd that 270W to move water 1C figure come from?

According to this link:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/ specifically http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/4/ this page.

most radiators see a 6+C delta change from 300W of power being put into a system cooling with 1850rpm fans on a 360 radiator.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Where'd that 270W to move water 1C figure come from?
> 
> According to this link:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/ specifically http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/4/ this page.
> 
> most radiators see a 6+C delta change from 300W of power being put into a system cooling with 1850rpm fans on a 360 radiator.


It comes from fairly simple physics and maths.

At 25c the specific heat of water is 4180 (Kj(kg k)).
A joule is 1w second
So it takes 4180W to heat a kg of water in one second
Devide that by 60 and you get 69.666W to heat a kg in one minute
4lpm is 4kg a minute so you end up with 278.6W

The specific heat changes with temp but it is only a small end result difference.

I dunno what you are looking at in those reviews but water in, water out temp changes by less than 1C at 6lpm, 1C at 4lpm and 2C at 2lpm.

Edit: I assume you are looking at the water in, air in delta which is not what is being discussed and determined by fan speed rather than flow rate.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Where'd that 270W to move water 1C figure come from?
> 
> According to this link:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/ specifically http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/4/ this page.
> 
> most radiators see a 6+C delta change from 300W of power being put into a system cooling with 1850rpm fans on a 360 radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> It comes from fairly simple physics and maths.
> 
> At 25c the specific heat of water is 4180 (Kj(kg k)).
> A joule is 1w second
> So it takes 4180W to heat a kg of water in one second
> Devide that by 60 and you get 69.666W to heat a kg in one minute
> 4lpm is 4kg a minute so you end up with 278.6W
> 
> The specific heat changes with temp but it is only a small end result difference.
> 
> I dunno what you are looking at in those reviews but water in, water out temp changes by less than 1C at 6lpm, 1C at 4lpm and 2C at 2lpm.
> 
> Edit: I assume you are looking at the water in, air in delta which is not what is being discussed and determined by fan speed rather than flow rate.
Click to expand...



Doesn't this say how much power can be dissipated with a 10C delta on water temp? I'm confused.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't this say how much power can be dissipated with a 10C delta on water temp? I'm confused.


Yes, of course, that is exactly what it shows. It shows the wattage dissipated by the radiator into the air when the coolant entering it is 10C above ambient.

That has nothing to do with why the order of components in a loop does not matter terribly and why we don't see 15C coolant temp differences before and after GPUs

Look two charts above that one and look at the water in / water out temps while dissipating 300W.
In particular note how at 1gpm the water in/out delta is nearly exactly 1C at all three fan speeds, and at 0.5gpm the water delta is nearly exactly 2C at all fan speeds.


----------



## DaClownie

I've always known order of components to not matter much, I guess I mislead myself and don't fully understand what that graph is showing us.

Thanks for explaining for me. I appreciate it


----------



## timerwin63

@Ceadderman, and @Jakusonfire, thanks for straightening me out, I'm not really up to date on my thermodynamics.


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello guys

I chose this tubing http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-PrimoFlex-Advanced-Tubing--Crystal/dp/B00A0PUH3K/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1452760208&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=PrimoChill+PrimoFlex+Advanced+LRT+Crystal+Clear

PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2in.ID x 3/4in.OD Tubing- Crystal Clear (10ft pack)

and I want Blood Red dye but cant chose nothing. can you recommend me some good dye? cost dont matter. Just i need good best one ! what dont lost color in 6 month.

Just looking for Best blood red dye ( cost dont matter)


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> *snip*
> 
> I want Blood Red dye but cant chose nothing. can you recommend me some good dye? cost dont matter. Just i need good best one ! what dont lost color in 6 month.
> 
> Just looking for Best blood red dye ( cost dont matter)


Mayhems ofc.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-uv-blood-red-concentrate-250ml.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-blood-red.html


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Mayhems ofc.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-uv-blood-red-concentrate-250ml.html
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-blood-red.html


I need this full 250ML to put in 750ml water to make 1lt red water?

and what is a different between Mayhems X1 Blood Red Concentrate - 250ml and Mayhems X1 Coolant - 1 Liter - Blood Red ?
250ml bottle is more expensive than 1liter bottle


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> I need this full 250ML to put in 750ml water to make 1lt red water?
> 
> and what is a different between Mayhems X1 Blood Red Concentrate - 250ml and Mayhems X1 Coolant - 1 Liter - Blood Red ?
> 250ml bottle is more expensive than 1liter bottle


You could try reading the discription.









250ml of concentrate makes 2L of coolant. So, 250ml concentrate + 1750ml DI or destilled water = 2L of coolant.


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You could try reading the discription.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 250ml of concentrate makes 2L of coolant. So, 250ml concentrate + 1750ml DI or destilled water = 2L of coolant.


Iv checked features









85% Bio-degradable Within 30 Days
Bitter taste additives to prevent consumption
Can be stored for up to 3 years (in a cool dry environment)
750ml of water to make 1lt

ty <3 ill buy it

and in how many time i need to change it to new coolant? 6 month or less?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Iv checked features
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 85% Bio-degradable Within 30 Days
> Bitter taste additives to prevent consumption
> Can be stored for up to 3 years (in a cool dry environment)
> 750ml of water to make 1lt
> 
> ty <3 ill buy it
> 
> and in how many time i need to change it to new coolant? 6 month or less?


Where did you read that? Both ppcs and mayhem's site explicitely say 250ml of concentrate for *2L* of coolant.

And yes, changing the coolant every 6 months is the usual rule of thumb.


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Where did you read that? Both ppcs and mayhem's site explicitely say 250ml of concentrate for *2L* of coolant.
> 
> And yes, changing the coolant every 6 months is the usual rule of thumb.




logical when bottle have 250ml dye and its say 750ml for take 1lt . i thought 250+750 can be 1lt coolant )

and this dye have everything? i mean do i need to add something? 3-4 water drop alcohol and others as some ppl recommended ?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> 
> 
> logical when bottle have 250ml dye and its say 750ml for take 1lt . i thought 250+750 can be 1lt coolant )
> 
> and this dye have everything? i mean do i need to add something? 3-4 water drop alcohol and others as some ppl recommended ?


Most likely that ppcs messed up on the features page, the only one metioned on Mayhem's site is:
Quote:


> Makes 2 Ltrs when mixed with DI or Ultra Pure water (125 ml per 1 Ltr)


And X1 has everything, you shouldn't add anything to it.


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Most likely that ppcs messed up on the features page, the only one metioned on Mayhem's site is:
> And X1 has everything, you shouldn't add anything to it.


'
what about this ? http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-xt-1-red-coolant-concentrate-250ml.html its have my friend and its looks like a blood. and this is 10$ more cheaper + its can make some 5 lt coolant. while this http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-uv-blood-red-concentrate-250ml.html


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> '
> what about this ? http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-xt-1-red-coolant-concentrate-250ml.html its have my friend and its looks like a blood. and this is 10$ more cheaper + its can make some 5 lt coolant. while this http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-uv-blood-red-concentrate-250ml.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> XT1 Goes down to Sub zero levels how ever its all so less viscus than X1
> X1 is an echo fluid made from vegetable extract how ever is not as thermal efficient as XT1 at lower levels.
> 
> X1 Concentrate makes 2 Ltrs 125ml per 875mls of water
> XT1 Makes 3 Ltrs - 50ml per 950ml of water
> 
> If you to measure them side by side XT1 will out perform X1 buy 1c at 25 to 35c in controlled conductions. How ever its dependant on your system. Hope this helps.
> 
> Both XT1 and X1 work with all tubing we tested them on. Only Pastel has issues with plasticizer tubing.


Seems like XT1 is actually better, and indeed makes 5L of coolant, so go for it.


----------



## ivoryg37

Is there a low profile g1/4 male to male fitting I'm unaware about? I've seen some people get their reservoir pretty close and flush with their pumps. However mine isn't that close

EDIT: never mind I figured it out. EK reservoir is what I'm looking for. The port are apparently deeper making it seem more flush than my bitspower


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Seems like XT1 is actually better, and indeed makes 5L of coolant, so go for it.


XT1 is nice, have the clear in my loop and never had issues with it.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally finished the loop, though a few runs need some tweaking due to the new mb:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know you will have some serious rad to back this up, but going from CPU direct to TWO 295x2... that is going to be a massive heat accumulation on load lol.
Click to expand...

I can understand what do you mean but (if the flow) from CPU to two 295x2 shouldn't be any problem in term of cooling. For heat accumulation, I'm more worry if the flow from the two 295x2 to the CPU but so far I measured water temp up to 3C max difference between CPU out & GPU out. And that with two 290's overclocked & overvolt. Like I said I understand what you mean there because I have two radiators after GPUs which are 120mm & 240mm rad where the 120mm feels hot to the touch than 240mm rad. I just ignore my finger pain sensor & just focus on the numbers (measured water temp).








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> My understanding of it is that water temp normally more or less equalizes across a loop. I'd be surprised if the delta between the point right before the CPU and the point after the second GPU was more than 15-20C. With smaller GPUs akin to the 970, the delta would be much more modest, along the lines of 5-7 degrees, maybe less. I don't really see what the problem with going from one block "directly" to another would be.
> 
> 
> 
> It's nothing like that. At a reasonable 4lpm flow rate it takes about 270W to change water temp by 1C. If you have a system putting 750W of heat into the coolant then the maximum temp difference between the coolest and warmest point would be 3C.
> 
> That assumes all heat sources grouped together and all rads grouped together. If there is any interspaceing the difference is obviously lower.
> 
> Halve the flow rate and the temp delta doubles. Double the heat input and the delta doubles.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I did measured 3C difference in water temp between CPU out & two 290s out. I have no idea what my flow is.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> and this dye have everything? i mean do i need to add something? 3-4 water drop alcohol and others as some ppl recommended ?


never, ever, ever add alcohol to a loop, ever. anyone recommending it should forever be ignored.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> never, ever, ever add alcohol to a loop, ever. anyone recommending it should forever be ignored.


Ethanol yes, but not alcohols are bad. Case in point, ethane-1,2-diol and propane-1,2-diol are still used in some coolants.


----------



## Ragin Asian

Just finished rebuilding my loop, adding a drain port and changing coolant form EKoolant clear to blue. Was originally gonna add my gpu to the loop out of paranoia of it bursting into flames (story for later if anyone's interested) but decide to replace it when Pascal/Polaris is out.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ethanol yes, but not alcohols are bad. Case in point, ethane-1,2-diol and propane-1,2-diol are still used in some coolants.


and these are readily available? and people recommend to add them to loops?


----------



## kgtuning

I think I'd avoid adding ethanol to a loop. Are our o rings and tubing even compatible with ethanol?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> and these are readily available? and people recommend to add them to loops?


Well, yeah. That's ethylene and propylene glycol respectively. Two alcohol groups vs one in ethanol, and we still see coolants using them being sold by quite a few companies.


----------



## pc-illiterate

and very few know they are alcohol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol. notice no one calls them alcohol. im not being an ass about this. im just pointing out, he said alcohol was recommended to be added by some people. to my knowledge, no one here has ever recommended adding alcohol to a loop. so as i said, no one calls them alcohol.
why not ask if thats what he meant?


----------



## ThatGuy16

Anyone still using PT nuke? I finished my new build not too long ago, did distilled and PT nuke. My previous setup was pretty disgusting with a home made remedy, but that was after 7 years of neglect









just wondering if this is a good "long term" solution, of course flushing it every so often like I'm supposed to


----------



## wermad

I just run plain distilled and haven't had any issues. Despite what others preach, I still recommend it after using it for a few years now. Last I heard, pt nuke from Petra's shop has copper - sulfate which would eat some nickel plating (back then, ~2011, can't confirm any recent developments tbh). Shouldn't be an issue with all copper blocks. But I would ask around if you have any nickel finished components.


----------



## fast_fate

f_fff - fast_fate's favorite fittings









Just received another order of Rocket Science fittings.

They changed the web address (domain) since my last order, and so I thought I would share the new link with everyone here.
*rocketscience.systems*
Additionally I have another *FREE WORLDWIDE SHIPPING* code for all orders over $50








*fast_fate2016*
Prices are in AUD, which should be great for most overseas buyers because the Ozzy $ is pretty weak at the moment.
The photo's of the black fittings on the website look more of a matte grey color, but they are actually dark black and kind of glossy..see pic below.
I think the web-shop pics are of revision 2 fittings, but now are shipping revision 3 stock.
I have suggested new photos for the web-shop to better indicate the finish.

Love their packaging


Needed more to complete this build shown here last week.


----------



## wermad

That is awesome


----------



## ThatGuy16

oh wow








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just run plain distilled and haven't had any issues. Despite what others preach, I still recommend it after using it for a few years now. Last I heard, pt nuke from Petra's shop has copper - sulfate which would eat some nickel plating (back then, ~2011, can't confirm any recent developments tbh). Shouldn't be an issue with all copper blocks. But I would ask around if you have any nickel finished components.


I think my res MIGHT be, shoot I cant remember lol. I just wanted algae control, I bought all new watercooling stuff for this PC, only re using my reservoir.. the rest was just too nasty. lol


----------



## Radox-0

That looks amazing, very nice work


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just run plain distilled and haven't had any issues.


i run distilled with petra's algae killer for aquariums. never a growth or other stuffs in my loop.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i run distilled with petra's algae killer for aquariums. never a growth or other stuffs in my loop.


sounds great.

Can I use that additive with Primochill LRT soft tubing and EK nickel plexi blocks?

http://www.amazon.com/Petras-Tech-Nuke-Concentrated-Biocide/dp/B008EGYJ54

To avoid this?

The stringy gray bio colonies within each microchannel are feeding nutrients off the black gunk, which parallels the jetplate inlet.


----------



## Benjiw

Ah crumbs, I think I done goofed, I have 2 different blocks in parallel, an EKWB 970 TF5 and another EKWB but it's a ACX model. Don't suppose anyone has used different blocks in parallel before? Should I just not bother? Dang!


----------



## rodaduck

im like a bull in a china shop , but i am learning the art of extraction hahaha


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah crumbs, I think I done goofed, I have 2 different blocks in parallel, an EKWB 970 TF5 and another EKWB but it's a ACX model. Don't suppose anyone has used different blocks in parallel before? Should I just not bother? Dang!


switch to series? My first loop had an ek 4870x2 + an ek 4870 block. You should be fine I would assume. I've ran both ddc's and d5's through a bunch of different blocks (cpu, mb, pch, ram, vrm, gpu, etc.) and they're both fully capable even if they're different brands or types or in series.

I did also dabbled in running four gpu blocks and one cpu block all in parallel. A pita to bleed but pretty much same temps as series.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

The new EK blocks are meant to run in parallel. They have the same sort of jet setup as the CPU blocks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> The new EK blocks are meant to run in parallel. They have the same sort of jet setup as the CPU blocks.


?

Mostly all folks run their cpu in series. Very few actually plumb them in parallel with the gpu's. Do you have anything from EK to confirm this? So if you run a dual xeon board w/ two evo supremacy's, you need to plumb them in parallel as well? don't make sense tbh









edit: I think what you're referring to is that flow direction is now specific for the newer gpu blocks, much like you wanna plumb the right "inlet" on a cpu block. I that respect, i could understand why parallel is recommended but in theory, you could run them in series (albeit with some awkward plumbing or a triple seriel bridge w/ the middle ports plugged/blocked).


----------



## Jakusonfire

According to EK even though the new gen blocks have the centre inlet flow they are not directional, and it's fine to run them in series. They have never said they were designed to run in parallel or need to be, even though it looks like that should be the case.


----------



## wermad

Kewl


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah crumbs, I think I done goofed, I have 2 different blocks in parallel, an EKWB 970 TF5 and another EKWB but it's a ACX model. Don't suppose anyone has used different blocks in parallel before? Should I just not bother? Dang!


It should be ok,I would personally prefer matching blocks tho. It depends on the hydraulic restriction really,they will work but one might not get the same flow.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I am reffering to just the GPU blocks. If you notice all the bridges theses days are parallel bridges too. It does not take a rocket sientist to figure this out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> I am reffering to just the GPU blocks. If you notice all the bridges theses days are parallel bridges too. It does not take a rocket sientist to figure this out.


No,they are not,bridges are available in all formats.

And its Scientist...not sientist.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Agreed with B Neg, my last bridge was a current model EK serial bridge.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,they are not,bridges are available in all formats.
> 
> And its Scientist...not sientist.


Forgive the typo. My phone has been craptastic lately. Missing letters or registering the wrong ones ever since its last update. I dont always catch them.


----------



## wermad

https://shop.ekwb.com/water-blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals?limit=24


----------



## timerwin63

I picked up an EK-FC970 block for my 670 the other day as their Cooling Configurator said it would work. Long story short, it didn't fit because of some non-reference caps on the VRM (my card is using 16v 470uF, reference is 16v 270uF), but I can live with that. What bothers me most is that I can't get any screws to thread into the block. I figured at first that it might be the included screws, so I grabbed a handful of spare M3 screws from my kit, but I couldn't get anything to go in any of the holes. I can see that the holes are obviously threaded, but nothing will bite. Is this an abnormality, or something that I should have expected? I sent an email to EK support last night, but haven't heard back yet.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I picked up an EK-FC970 block for my 670 the other day as their Cooling Configurator said it would work. Long story short, it didn't fit because of some non-reference caps on the VRM (my card is using 16v 470uF, reference is 16v 270uF), but I can live with that. What bothers me most is that I can't get any screws to thread into the block. I figured at first that it might be the included screws, so I grabbed a handful of spare M3 screws from my kit, but I couldn't get anything to go in any of the holes. I can see that the holes are obviously threaded, but nothing will bite. Is this an abnormality, or something that I should have expected? I sent an email to EK support last night, but haven't heard back yet.


I've done like 5 ek block installs, and no that isn't supposed to happen.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I've done like 5 ek block installs, and no that isn't supposed to happen.


Here's to hoping I can get a replacement, then.

I also got an empty box instead of the Gentle Typhoon I bought from PPCs. This week is not going for too well for me... Hoping I can get a fan from them. Although with the stories I've heard from their customer service, I doubt it, and if I do, I'm gonna have to pay for the shipping.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Here's to hoping I can get a replacement, then.
> 
> I also got an empty box instead of the Gentle Typhoon I bought from PPCs. This week is not going for too well for me... Hoping I can get a fan from them. Although with the stories I've heard from their customer service, I doubt it, and if I do, I'm gonna have to pay for the shipping.


You probably want a new one. But why not source a used one for the 670 probably will be cheap f hey make one.


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello Guys
I bought Swiftech MCP655 with speed controller for my friend. I have a same model too. just a little different.

My model have serial code near controller
like this 

and this one w.o serial number


can pump w.o code one be fake? I bought it on amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G6S1JY?keywords=Swiftech%20MCP655&qid=1452961745&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

we cant test it right now we dont have a tubings and i dont wat to switch it w/.o water. so how i can test it? can i pull water in a bucket and open d5 top mode and put the pump from top side in to the water. i mena i dont put it full only the blades ?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You probably want a new one. But why not source a used one for the 670 probably will be cheap f hey make one.


I got the 970 block because I got a great deal on it and I much prefer the clean acetal to the cruddy CSQ design that exists in their 670 blocks. I also couldn't find many used 670 blocks floating around, and the reference 970 uses the same PCB.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello Guys
> I bought Swiftech MCP655 with speed controller for my friend. I have a same model too. just a little different.
> 
> My model have serial code near controller
> like this
> 
> and this one w.o serial number
> 
> 
> can pump w.o code one be fake? I bought it on amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G6S1JY?keywords=Swiftech%20MCP655&qid=1452961745&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
> 
> we cant test it right now we dont have a tubings and i dont wat to switch it w/.o water. so how i can test it? can i pull water in a bucket and open d5 top mode and put the pump from top side in to the water. i mena i dont put it full only the blades ?


With all the knockoffs floating around it's danged near impossible to say w/o contacting Swiftech for their input.









~Ceadder









~


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> With all the knockoffs floating around it's danged near impossible to say w/o contacting Swiftech for their input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~


Sorry but dont understand







can you tell me it simple


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Sorry but dont understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you tell me it simple


It's almost impossible to tell if it's not a legitimate Swiftech pump without contacting them directly.

On a side note, I've got A DDC laying around that I want to use for my new loop. Is there a danger to running the pump at 7v instead of its full 12? It's incredibly loud as is. That, or I could mod it to pull power from a fan header, as my board does voltage control for fan speed. I don't know if that header would be able to give it enough current, though.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> It's almost impossible to tell if it's not a legitimate Swiftech pump without contacting them directly.
> 
> On a side note, I've got A DDC laying around that I want to use for my new loop. Is there a danger to running the pump at 7v instead of its full 12? It's incredibly loud as is. That, or I could mod it to pull power from a fan header, as my board does voltage control for fan speed. I don't know if that header would be able to give it enough current, though.


Mine has been running undervolted from a fan header for about 2 years now, its absolutely fine.
I just made a molex to 3 pin fan header adapter.

A few things you need to consider though:
-Make sure your fan header is rated for enough amperage.
-A DDC can run hot when undervolted, investing in a heatsink might not be a bad idea.
-I don't know what model DDC you have, but mine's a little picky at which voltages it likes to run.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Under 30c gaming @ 7680 x 1440p


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Under 30c gaming @ 7680 x 1440p


That's insane.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> That's insane.




Tis very beasty indeed


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Tis very beasty indeed


Umm holy crap dude. That is sick.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Sorry but dont understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you tell me it simple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's almost impossible to tell if it's not a legitimate Swiftech pump without contacting them directly.
> 
> On a side note, I've got A DDC laying around that I want to use for my new loop. Is there a danger to running the pump at 7v instead of its full 12? It's incredibly loud as is. That, or I could mod it to pull power from a fan header, as my board does voltage control for fan speed. I don't know if that header would be able to give it enough current, though.
Click to expand...

I ran dual DDC off my Sunbeam RheoSmart 3 without issue. Undervolted 24/7. Of course I had mine setup on the other side of my HDD rack where my 250 was Intaking so didn't have to worry about heat. 5 drive rack, HHD in top skipped 2nd rack and HDD in 3rd rack and DDC unit on the other side of rack 4 and 5. Not all that noisy considering that I had them supported by packing foam to keep vibration to a minimum.









Now that I've pulled the 5.25" and HDD racks, I will likely keep the 250 to push clean air into the space where I will have my CE 360s running parallel as Intake and MMRS kit mounted over it.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello Guys
> I bought Swiftech MCP655 with speed controller for my friend. I have a same model too. just a little different.
> 
> My model have serial code near controller
> like this
> 
> and this one w.o serial number
> 
> 
> can pump w.o code one be fake? I bought it on amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G6S1JY?keywords=Swiftech%20MCP655&qid=1452961745&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
> 
> we cant test it right now we dont have a tubings and i dont wat to switch it w/.o water. so how i can test it? can i pull water in a bucket and open d5 top mode and put the pump from top side in to the water. i mena i dont put it full only the blades ?


I have the same D5's w/ just 12v and ground. My old one i had did have an rpm sensor. Ive yet to fire up the new ones and though I did see the speed dial, I didn't check for that sticker. They're in place and w/ housing kits, so its tough to even check them now. I may break down my rig again for some pending parts and I'll check then. I got them about a month ago and have yet to use them







. I did shorten the wires as I found them too long.


----------



## Ithanul

Open up the loop for new GPU goodness.

Two 980 Tis.




Now my old Titans can finally retire.


Now to let the bubbles get chased out.


----------



## OCmember

My setup:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Under 30c gaming @ 7680 x 1440p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> *


We have seen these already,please dont keep reposting the same pics.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I think that button needs to be pressed


And dont beg for rep......thats sooooo uncool.


----------



## PedroC1999

Cleaning out my loop and my white tubing has a lining of green gunk inside it. I'll be opening the b,locks later top examine anything.

How would I prevent this in the future? KillCoil? Going to be using EK Clear fluid


----------



## OCmember

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Cleaning out my loop and my white tubing has a lining of green gunk inside it. I'll be opening the b,locks later top examine anything.
> 
> How would I prevent this in the future? KillCoil? Going to be using EK Clear fluid


I don't know, but what fluid did you use in the first place? I only use distilled water and am wondering if it's a good coolant that won't gunk up.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Cleaning out my loop and my white tubing has a lining of green gunk inside it. I'll be opening the b,locks later top examine anything.
> 
> How would I prevent this in the future? KillCoil? Going to be using EK Clear fluid


Sounds like plasticizer. This is typical of a lot of soft plastic tubing. It's probably green just because of the dye in coolant. Plasticizer isn't really preventable unless you get a truly plasticizer free tubing and to do that, you'd either have to use hard tube or the black "rubber-like" tubing that EK has available.


----------



## OCmember

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Sounds like plasticizer. This is typical of a lot of soft plastic tubing. It's probably green just because of the dye in coolant. Plasticizer isn't really preventable unless you get a truly plasticizer free tubing and to do that, you'd either have to use hard tube or the black "rubber-like" tubing that EK has available.


Do you have a link to that tubing? hah


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCmember*
> 
> Do you have a link to that tubing? hah


Look up EK Zmt tubing


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Cleaning out my loop and my white tubing has a lining of green gunk inside it. I'll be opening the b,locks later top examine anything.
> 
> How would I prevent this in the future? KillCoil? Going to be using EK Clear fluid


I have been using distilled water with DazMode Protector for pass 15 months without issue. It has been drained and filled once so far.

The distilled water i used was cheap Walmart great value 10 litre distilled water..

The DazMode Protector i used was from Dazmode based in Canada.. almost same as PT Nuke or Mayhem with all the stuff inside..
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/

Make up to 2 liters of coolant solution by adding DazMode PROTECTOR to distilled water. Carefully formulated chemicals suppress corrosion and algae growth in your water cooling loop and improve heat transfer.

Fully compatible with Feser and PC-Cooling Dye coloring options.

Engineered and manufactured in Germany under DazMode's request.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCmember*
> 
> Do you have a link to that tubing? hah


You have a few options with EK's Zero Maintenance Tubing (aka ZMT):

3/8" ID 5/8" OD: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail
1/2" ID 5/8" OD: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-1-11-1mm-3m-retail
1/2" ID 3/4" OD: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-19-4-12-5mm-3m-retail

EDIT: Odds are it's also available at Performance PC's and other distributors that carry EK's products, although the 1/2" ID 3/4" OD might not be at all of them yet due to it being fairly new


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Sounds like plasticizer. This is typical of a lot of soft plastic tubing. It's probably green just because of the dye in coolant. Plasticizer isn't really preventable unless you get a truly plasticizer free tubing and to do that, you'd either have to use hard tube or the black "rubber-like" tubing that EK has available.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCmember*
> 
> Do you have a link to that tubing? hah


Tygon also has plasticizer free options. IIRC Primochill Advanced LRT is also advertised as plasticizer free. PPCs has a section for plasticizer free tubing, although Id recommend just getting a manufacturing number and ordering elsewhere or finding it in a local hardware store.

ZMT is also a great solution and looks gorgeous.


----------



## OCmember

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> You have a few options with EK's Zero Maintenance Tubing (aka ZMT):
> 
> 3/8" ID 5/8" OD: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail
> 1/2" ID 5/8" OD: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-1-11-1mm-3m-retail
> 1/2" ID 3/4" OD: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-19-4-12-5mm-3m-retail
> 
> EDIT: Odds are it's also available at Performance PC's and other distributors that carry EK's products, although the 1/2" ID 3/4" OD might not be at all of them yet due to it being fairly new


Thanks! I need the 1/2 ID & 5/8 OD, I have a loop setup that's going on maybe 8 months. Very limited amount of tubing but it discolored after a week. I've been thinking about changing the water and tubing soon but it's such a pita.

This is how it looked before it discolored. ... very limited amount of tubing:


----------



## OCmember

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Tygon also has plasticizer free options. IIRC Primochill Advanced LRT is also advertised as plasticizer free. PPCs has a section for plasticizer free tubing, although Id recommend just getting a manufacturing number and ordering elsewhere or finding it in a local hardware store.
> 
> ZMT is also a great solution and looks gorgeous.


Awesome, another link! Great, thank you!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCmember*
> 
> Thanks! I need the 1/2 ID & 5/8 OD, I have a loop setup that's going on maybe 8 months. Very limited amount of tubing but it discolored after a week. I've been thinking about changing the water and tubing soon but it's such a pita.
> 
> This is how it looked before it discolored. ... very limited amount of tubing:


Oh, if that's the case and you don't need much, they also sell it in 1M lengths: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-1-11-1mm


----------



## SteezyTN

Could this be a reason for high temps, even though I have 3 rads for my Two Titans X's? I have a 560, 360, and 240, and my temps are higher than most people with less rad space.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

The nightmare cable management? It could block some air flow, but you'll need to give us more details then what you are.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> You do know you can take 2 normal size staples and make 1 side straight like an L shape and use those as pin extractors? I've always used staples. The trick is holding the single wire and pushing up as you push both staples down. Also, I used a lighter to melt the end by the connector and rolled them with my finger, basically creating a permanent attachment to the pin, then slid it right into the connector, no sleeving needed.


A big paperclip works too if you unbend it so it's straight, then bend it in half, then I used the end of my wire strippers to flatten the ends. I must say though, building your own cables from scratch, even though it sounds like a lot of work, is a whole lot easier than buying a cable, trying to remove each pin from the connector, sleeving it, and trying to put the pin back into the connector. I bought a set of pre-sleeved blue PSU cables and was going to change some of the wires to white, and was going to change out the connectors from black to white, but after going through a few sets of pin extractors and hours of frustration, I bought a new crimper, multiple sizes of pins, and lots of sleeving then made my own cables. I ended up only making the cables that would be most visible, like the 24 pin cable, 8 pin EPS, & 4 x 8 pin PCIe cables. Some of those pre-sleeved cables are difficult to work with if you try removing the pins from the connectors.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> The nightmare cable management? It could block some air flow, but you'll need to give us more details then what you are.


Basically, I have a 560, 360, and 240mm radiators cooling two Titan X's pushing 1.274v. From everyone I hear from, they can run the same voltage and get in the low 40's on the cards. I run mine, with EK vardars 140 and 120's, around 1500 RPM and a D5 at 100%. My cards get up to 56c when gaming. That's BF4 4K, Titanfall, GTA5, Firestrike Ultra loop, and such. Could it just be a bad mount of the blocks?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finally finished the loop, though a few runs need some tweaking due to the new mb:


That is badass! That is exactly the look I was going for in my old case before I bought a white CaseLabs TH10A. I still have my old case, which I painted red on the outside and white on the inside, so if I ever finish my current build, maybe I could do some work on my old case with some extra parts I have laying around. I have an Asus X99 Deluxe MB, which is mostly white. Ever since buying a couple of Gigabyte 980 Ti Gaming G1 GPUs, I've been a big fan of Gigabyte.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Mayhems ofc.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-uv-blood-red-concentrate-250ml.html
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-blood-red.html


I second the Mayhem's. You can even try with some of their pastel colors, maybe even start with white, and add red dye until you get the color you want. One thing though, Mayhem dye might discolor PrimoChill LRT tubing.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> '
> what about this ? http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-xt-1-red-coolant-concentrate-250ml.html its have my friend and its looks like a blood. and this is 10$ more cheaper + its can make some 5 lt coolant. while this http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-uv-blood-red-concentrate-250ml.html


Do a little research on this before using this with the PrimoChill LRT tubing, especially the UV Red. It's going to stain.

Also, if you decide to go ahead with it anyway, you can always buy a small bottle of their red dye and gradually add drops until you get the color you want. You can mix and match their coolant/dyes also. I've seen some people end up with their LRT tubing stained and PETG tubing stained.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I picked up an EK-FC970 block for my 670 the other day as their Cooling Configurator said it would work. Long story short, it didn't fit because of some non-reference caps on the VRM (my card is using 16v 470uF, reference is 16v 270uF), but I can live with that. What bothers me most is that I can't get any screws to thread into the block. I figured at first that it might be the included screws, so I grabbed a handful of spare M3 screws from my kit, but I couldn't get anything to go in any of the holes. I can see that the holes are obviously threaded, but nothing will bite. Is this an abnormality, or something that I should have expected? I sent an email to EK support last night, but haven't heard back yet.


I know that all of EK's rads used M3 screws in the past, but I recently bought 3 of their XE rads for the build I'm working on right now, and they all use 6/32 screws. I learned this the had way by buying a bunch of anodized screws, which were specifically for EK rads, but none of them fit. Then I bought a handful of different length 6/32 screws, since some were going through my case, 25mm fans, and then into the rads (others were just going through the fans into the rads), and some of the screws I had to cut some of the length off to prevent them from hitting the fins. I'm not saying this is the problem you're having, but EK did change screw sizes on some of their newer products.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Under 30c gaming @ 7680 x 1440p


Is there a computer in there somewhere?


----------



## OCmember

So this Tygon E-3603 tubing won't haze up and gunk up my radiator, motor, pump, etc ???


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCmember*
> 
> So this Tygon E-3603 tubing won't haze up and gunk up my radiator, motor, pump, etc ???


Tygon 3603 most definitely will leech plasticizer over time. That was my first experience with putting a loop together.

Edited to add -

They claim a different type plasticizer than the 3603 I am familiar with, so I withdraw the statement for the time being.


----------



## OCmember

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Tygon 3603 most definitely will leech plasticizer over time. That was my first experience with putting a loop together.
> 
> Edited to add -
> 
> They claim a different type plasticizer than the 3603 I am familiar with, so I withdraw the statement for the time being.


What material is different? What about the EK ZMT ? Will it haze up and gunk up my radiator, motor, pump, etc ???


----------



## rolldog

Here are a couple of pics from my latest build, which still has some work to be finished.


----------



## Kamikaze-X

sneak preview of my next project


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> sneak preview of my next project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A watercooled zero? The amount of overkill just can't be described with words.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Cleaning out my loop and my white tubing has a lining of green gunk inside it. I'll be opening the b,locks later top examine anything.
> 
> How would I prevent this in the future? KillCoil? Going to be using EK Clear fluid
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like plasticizer. This is typical of a lot of soft plastic tubing. It's probably green just because of the dye in coolant. Plasticizer isn't really preventable unless you get a truly plasticizer free tubing and to do that, you'd either have to use hard tube or the black "rubber-like" tubing that EK has available.
Click to expand...

It's not "rubber-like", it is rubber.

As far as the greenish tint, it's likely the patina from the copper core radiator. I had it happen with my white PrimoChill LRT. I never once used a dye or an additive. So it was bound to happen whether or not dyes were used in his loop.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCmember*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Tygon 3603 most definitely will leech plasticizer over time. That was my first experience with putting a loop together.
> 
> Edited to add -
> 
> They claim a different type plasticizer than the 3603 I am familiar with, so I withdraw the statement for the time being.
> 
> 
> 
> What material is different? What about the EK ZMT ? Will it haze up and gunk up my radiator, motor, pump, etc ???
Click to expand...

ZMT is black and it's rubber. Hence the lack of Plasticizer to seep into the coolant.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> sneak preview of my next project


Water cooled Samsung Galaxy?









~Ceadder


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Do a little research on this before using this with the PrimoChill LRT tubing, especially the UV Red. It's going to stain.
> 
> Also, if you decide to go ahead with it anyway, you can always buy a small bottle of their red dye and gradually add drops until you get the color you want. You can mix and match their coolant/dyes also. I've seen some people end up with their LRT tubing stained and PETG tubing stained.


I change my mind. im going to buy this tubing Red and ill take normal coolant not any dye mix .

I go to pharmacy and will buy distilled water


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> sneak preview of my next project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Reminds me of this gorgeous Watercooled R.Pi.


----------



## Kamikaze-X

That's the project that inspired me


----------



## Hanshin

Build finally finished, time to share some pics!


----------



## BradleyW

Very clean. Looks professional and sleek.


----------



## Touge180SX

Hanshin, very nice and clean! Where do you order all your parts from? I live in yokosuka.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> That is badass! That is exactly the look I was going for in my old case before I bought a white CaseLabs TH10A. I still have my old case, which I painted red on the outside and white on the inside, so if I ever finish my current build, maybe I could do some work on my old case with some extra parts I have laying around. I have an Asus X99 Deluxe MB, which is mostly white. Ever since buying a couple of Gigabyte 980 Ti Gaming G1 GPUs, I've been a big fan of Gigabyte.


Thanks dude







. Everything is on hold pending the cpu and most importantly some missing plug fittings for my loop and rads.

Took another little pic:


----------



## rolldog

That's really nice. I wish Gigabyte had that board whenever I bought my Asus RVE, but especially after I bought my 2 Gigabyte 980 Ti Gaming G1s. Those GPUs are incredible so I can imagine how their MB is. I painted my Little Devil PC-V8 red on the outside and white on the outside, and I was going to rebuild in it. Once I bought my Gigabyte 980 Ti G1, within a week I bought another. Then when EK released their waterblocks, I bought 2 of them then decided to keep them on a separate loop and ended up ordering a white CaseLabs TH10A. I sill have my red and white Little Devil case sitting there, and I still have my Asus X99 Deluxe, but I think I'm going to sell that MB while it's still worth something. It'll be a while before I build another PC unless I sell this one, but I don't see that happening anytime soon. Especially since I'm not even done with it.

I just love that red and white color scheme. This is what really got me interested in it.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=127679


----------



## DarthBaggins

What happens when I get bored and have plenty of paint to play w/ around:



No more just plain black M8


----------



## Dave6531

Almost done with the shelf then time to mount pump and res and run the hard line and send case out for paint. What do you all think?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Is there a computer in there somewhere?


Yes there is off to the right somewhere ! LoooooL


----------



## rathar3

can try Beer tv and fritos like the rest of us !!!


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What happens when I get bored and have plenty of paint to play w/ around:
> 
> 
> 
> No more just plain black M8


Can try beer TV and fritos like the rest of us !!!!


----------



## emsj86

has anyone used the Bitspower None Chamfer Brass Link Tubing OD14MM Shining Silver - Length 300 MM. can it be bent?


----------



## Hanshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Hanshin, very nice and clean! Where do you order all your parts from? I live in yokosuka.


I usually use kakaku.com to compare price in stores here in Japan, but I essentially use Amazon Prime for hardware.

Some brands like EVGA are near impossible to find here, so I usually import them from US (Amazon) or Canada (NCIX).
For the WC gear, I always order on the EKWB shop or buy at local store (CoolingLab or Oliospec). You can import from Aquatuning, Highflow or PPCs as well if you're not afraid of shiiping fees.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Can try beer TV and fritos like the rest of us !!!!


if I added alcohol to the mix then I'd probably have torn the rig down and broke out the 1/8" masking tape too lol


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> The nightmare cable management? It could block some air flow, but you'll need to give us more details then what you are.


You might find this video recently uploaded by Linus interesting. I, for one, was very surprised!


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanshin*
> 
> Build finally finished, time to share some pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean and good looking! Congratulations!


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> if I added alcohol to the mix then I'd probably have torn the rig down and broke out the 1/8" masking tape too lol


Sounds like a six pack induced missed chance then


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol, yeah but I'm still messing with it. Just have to spray then bring the parts back indoors due to the outside temps being low


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanshin*
> 
> I usually use kakaku.com to compare price in stores here in Japan, but I essentially use Amazon Prime for hardware.
> 
> Some brands like EVGA are near impossible to find here, so I usually import them from US (Amazon) or Canada (NCIX).
> For the WC gear, I always order on the EKWB shop or buy at local store (CoolingLab or Oliospec). You can import from Aquatuning, Highflow or PPCs as well if you're not afraid of shiiping fees.


Yeah, I abuse Amazon Prime, lol. I do some oliospec and coolinglab when I need it in a hurry or the exchange rate is on my side, lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Could this be a reason for high temps, even though I have 3 rads for my Two Titans X's? I have a 560, 360, and 240, and my temps are higher than most people with less rad space.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Please Remount Gpus with new paste and try again. 90% Due to a bad mount job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanshin*
> 
> Build finally finished, time to share some pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a fine specimen of a computer right there! Excellent Job.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

When mounting a rad to the top of a case (case labs sm8 in my case) what size screws our needed with no fan in between 6 or 8mm ?


----------



## hitzestau

Hi, we do not post here often, but I would like to share the pics of our current workstation anyway


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## lowfat

O boy. Just spent the last day catching up on 200 pages (4000 posts) of this thread.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Please Remount Gpus with new paste and try again. 90% Due to a bad mount job.
> That is a fine specimen of a computer right there! Excellent Job.
> 
> TCO


I will. I just don't want to drain the loop, ughhh lol. I'm all out of paste, so I need to buy some. What do you recommend?

Also, TCO, did you ever fix that issue where your blocks where one card was a lot hotter than the other?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> O boy. Just spent the last day catching up on 200 pages (4000 posts) of this thread.


I was wondering where you had got to,been busy?


----------



## dilster97

I'm not sure how i'm going to connect my second 980 and the cpu to my existing loop. The original plan was a parallel setup with one of EKs parallel terminals but i don't think that's going to work nicely becasue of the external radiator i'm using.

Right now the loop goes from the pump/res > GPU 1 > external rad > back to pump/res

The planned new config was pump/res > GPU 2 > GPU 1> CPU > external rad > back to pump/res but the issue with that setup is i would need to make a nasty tubing run from the CPU to the watercooling hole on the case.

Hoping that this can give a better idea. Head is wrecked.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitzestau*
> 
> Hi, we do not post here often, but I would like to share the pics of our current workstation anyway
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good!









ps: get rid of the black QDC and get silver ones instead, before you regret it.


----------



## hitzestau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps: get rid of the black QDC and get silver ones instead, before you regret it.


thanks









but about the black QDC: we have been using them in several rigs for over two years now, and never had a bad experience with them.


----------



## Kostadinos

900D Full Custom Dual Αcrylic Loop

First Loop Is Almost Done,Hope you like it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I will. I just don't want to drain the loop, ughhh lol. I'm all out of paste, so I need to buy some. What do you recommend?
> 
> Also, TCO, did you ever fix that issue where your blocks where one card was a lot hotter than the other?


Nope. Difference is Usually 46c Top Card/ Bottom card is about 40C.

Not Remounting for that. Not until I drain the Green for maintenance.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nope. Difference is Usually 46c Top Card/ Bottom card is about 40C.
> 
> Not Remounting for that. Not until I drain the Green for maintenance.
> 
> TCO


Okay, got you. Also, how did you apply your paste? Star pattern like EK recommends?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, got you. Also, how did you apply your paste? Star pattern like EK recommends?


X pattern.

TCO


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> 900D Full Custom Dual Αcrylic Loop
> 
> First Loop Is Almost Done,Hope you like it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip


Looks really nice, pretty good bends too.

But why the 900D for a single GPU rig? It just looks so empty.


----------



## chann3l

Phantek evolv atx build complete


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> I'm not sure how i'm going to connect my second 980 and the cpu to my existing loop. The original plan was a parallel setup with one of EKs parallel terminals but i don't think that's going to work nicely becasue of the external radiator i'm using.
> 
> Right now the loop goes from the pump/res > GPU 1 > external rad > back to pump/res
> 
> The planned new config was pump/res > GPU 2 > GPU 1> CPU > external rad > back to pump/res but the issue with that setup is i would need to make a nasty tubing run from the CPU to the watercooling hole on the case.
> 
> Hoping that this can give a better idea. Head is wrecked.


I submit
Pump/Res > CPU > GPU1 > GPU2 > External Rad > Res

If you could mount the pump/res a little closer in it would really look pretty sweet.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanshin*
> 
> Build finally finished, time to share some pics!


Clear liquid and white light = best.

Best because it its clean pure and sharp.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Looks really nice, pretty good bends too.
> 
> But why the 900D for a single GPU rig? It just looks so empty.


Can't vouch for them but I run a single 980 in my 900d. I will probably add another but it gives me ample rad support natively to run my fans at extremely low rpm with good results. I have a RX360 and RX 480 with GT AP-15's running at like 800rpm. So quiet.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Can't vouch for them but I run a single 980 in my 900d. I will probably add another but it gives me ample rad support natively to run my fans at extremely low rpm with good results. I have a RX360 and RX 480 with GT AP-15's running at like 800rpm. So quiet.


Sure, but lets be real here, for a rig with 1(and maybe 2) 980's. An NZXT H440, for example, with 2 360mm radiators would've performed perfectly fine even with low rpm GT's, its a third of the price of the 900D and won't look as empty.

Heck, I'm running an overclocked 290 and a mildly overclocked 4770k off a single 360mm XT45. With eloop b12-3's as low as they can go. And my temps are perfectly fine when gaming.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> its a third of the price of the 900D and won't look as empty.


We could say that about the majority of builds though...

Even the really nice pic of Hanshin's build just posted seems empty below the video card.

At the end of the day people may prefer the advantage of having this extra space/flexibility - just in case they may want to add another video card at a later stage - Or they may just really like the looks of their chosen case.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Yeah, I packed an RVE/5960X E-ATX mobo, SLI TitanX, 1200W PSU, 2X 240 (1 in P/P) and P/P 140 rads along with a pump/res hardlined, drives and all that into a 550D. It worked, I think it looks fine, but it needs more rads to keep the temps from gradually climbing. I mainly did it to see if I could, nobody can accuse that rig of having too much open space. In the meantime, I bought a 900D, more/bigger rads/fans and will someday get around to migrating to that case. I'm kind of torn - I like the compact little 550D rig, that thing packs a punch for a mid tower, but even with all rads on intake and a pair of 140s in the side panel for exhaust it just can't quite handle the heat.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was wondering where you had got to,been busy?


Not really. Just different hobbies. Gaming, auto detailing, and auto headlight retrofitting. Finished my most recent retrofit so time to get back in to modding I think.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I submit
> Pump/Res > CPU > GPU1 > GPU2 > External Rad > Res
> 
> If you could mount the pump/res a little closer in it would really look pretty sweet.


The res can't go closer since it would interfere with the bottom card. Even of the bottom card was as high as it can go it would be a bit too close for my liking,

Your idea does work. Looked at the loop, sketched ideas. It will work but the res to CPU run is a bit funky in my opinion.

I though about doing a 'hardline' style parallel run. The kind of run that doesn't require the terminal block. I've seen images of it being done before and there's no harm in trying right?








The idea: 

'The Plan'


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> I though about doing a 'hardline' style parallel run. The kind of run that doesn't require the terminal block. I've seen images of it being done before and there's no harm in trying right?


Ultimately my main recommendation would be to go to hard tubing. but thats not always an option.

I do like the looks of that weird parallel setup, though. Is that practical?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> 'The Plan'


Like isn't this config placing the CPU in parallel with the 2 GPUs?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Yeah, I packed an RVE/5960X E-ATX mobo, SLI TitanX, 1200W PSU, 2X 240 (1 in P/P) and P/P 140 rads along with a pump/res hardlined, drives and all that into a 550D. It worked, I think it looks fine, but it needs more rads to keep the temps from gradually climbing. I mainly did it to see if I could, nobody can accuse that rig of having too much open space. In the meantime, I bought a 900D, more/bigger rads/fans and will someday get around to migrating to that case. I'm kind of torn - I like the compact little 550D rig, that thing packs a punch for a mid tower, but even with all rads on intake and a pair of 140s in the side panel for exhaust it just can't quite handle the heat.


Sounds about what I plan to do with a Define S. Going to smack a RIVE with a 3930K and three GPUs.









Currently got a 1090T on 990FX with two GPUs smack in old NZXT Apollo. Kind of tight fit with a H50 and H55 fighting for space.


----------



## Kronos8

So this is the result of my first attempt on WC. It is a simple loop, no video card yet.
Nothing fancy, compared to other builds, but does the job.
The build was made on coolermaster HAF X.
D5 vario pump with EK res, EK supremacy evo original csq copper plexi,
Phobya G-Charger 360 V.2 rad with 3 F4 vardars pushing and 3 phobya slim fans pulling.
The system cools a 6700K on asus z170 deluxe and has samsung 950 Pro for main disk.
Still decent memory and video card needed.
WC build went smooth. No problems at all.
Drain system made from some parts I had from central heating system.
Not final build though. as I'll be gone for more than 3 months, so I'll drain and clean for final assembly with the rest components about June.
I know that slim fans for pull are not ideal, but I had issues with clearance on HAF X.
I was really in for EK 420 rad, but clearance on 5,25 bay was on the edge, at least on paper (145+-1 mm rad and 146mm measured space on HAF X) and I had no feedback from other users regarding that issue.







Thanks for your comments on this and other threads.
Comments of more experienced always help.


----------



## Ithanul

Hey, another Haf X.







Seems that one still got all its bays though.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Ultimately my main recommendation would be to go to hard tubing. but thats not always an option.
> 
> I do like the looks of that weird parallel setup, though. Is that practical?
> Like isn't this config placing the CPU in parallel with the 2 GPUs?


I would have went hard tubing initially but i guess timing and budget kicked in and said no to that. Plus being the first time liquid was going near expensive GPU #1 and near the system in general i didn't want anything to go disastrously wrong.

As for practicality there was a thread here on OCN about it and it doesn't look to great as far as practicality goes. http://www.overclock.net/t/1499542/help-with-water-cooling-full-parallel-loop

Although the guy (Roxycon) who built that black and white rig changed the loop layout in his build log and got a six degree improvement on the CPU by separating it from the parallel setup.

Not sure what i'll do to be honest. The MO-RA3 420 is being wasted on just one GTX 980 KPE.


----------



## eucalyptus

Hmm, loops are filled. Just need to put the rest together. What do you think? I am in love with this, it's so gorgeous I want to start crying























Not bad right? For a first time ever building a computer, and 18 years old


----------



## Kronos8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hey, another Haf X.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems that one still got all its bays though.


Yes, no modding at all.
And as I wrote, I wanted to try for 420 rad, with just drilling 6 holes. No cutting was needed, but clearance on 5.25 bays was on the edge.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, loops are filled.


Diggin that shot. To bad it's an Amd processor under there









TCO


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, loops are filled. Just need to put the rest together. What do you think? I am in love with this, it's so gorgeous I want to start crying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad right? For a first time ever building a computer, and 18 years old


It is gorgeous, regardless of how old you are!









I'm 3 times as old and couldn't do better.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Diggin that shot. To bad it's an Amd processor under there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


It's an Intel I7 5820K







hahahaha you really believe I would put something like AMD in this beauty? xD Only of they had a Doubly Fury X2 card, then I would









Asrock X99 Itx board with 2011-3 EKWB mounting plate and Supremacy EVO block.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> It's an Intel I7 5820K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *hahahaha you really believe I would put in crap in this beauty*? xD
> 
> Asrock X99 Itx board with 2011-3 EKWB mounting plate and Supremacy EVO block.


I digress, Didn't realize that was one of the New Mounting plates that Ek has put out, looks very similar to the AMD block plates.









TCO

And to answer your question, Yes. I do. You would be surprised on what people put in their builds. I have made mistakes myself.


----------



## Touge180SX

Absolutely amazing Eucalyptus!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Absolutely amazing Eucalyptus!


Thanks Touge









I do deeply appreciate it, makes me very happy to hear


----------



## timerwin63

Is there an official way to submit an EK RMA request, or do I just have to send them a support email? I found a link on their website announcing a new RMA form that would be the only way they accept requests dated back in 2013, but the link 404'd.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

You might inquire in their support forum:

http://www.overclock.net/f/18067/ek-water-blocks


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Sure, but lets be real here, for a rig with 1(and maybe 2) 980's. An NZXT H440, for example, with 2 360mm radiators would've performed perfectly fine even with low rpm GT's, its a third of the price of the 900D and won't look as empty.


nope. an h440 is crap is for water cooling. it has horrible air flow for radiators. that isnt an opinion either. its a proven fact.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> nope. an h440 is crap is for water cooling. it has horrible air flow for radiators. that isnt an opinion either. its a proven fact.


Sigh, I was just using it to make a point, that there are plenty of cases that cool that kind of setup without being unnecessarily large or expensive.

But for arguments sake, Noctis 450, same chassis, better flow.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> nope. an h440 is crap is for water cooling. it has horrible air flow for radiators. that isnt an opinion either. its a proven fact.


Irrelevant with 2x 360 and all major components under water unless it blocked airflow completely.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I digress, Didn't realize that was one of the New Mounting plates that Ek has put out, looks very similar to the AMD block plates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> And to answer your question, Yes. I do. You would be surprised on what people put in their builds. I have made mistakes myself.


AMD needs more cooling than intel when overclocking so tbh it wouldn't bother me, then again I have an AMD under water so meh, does the job perfectly fine.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Irrelevant with 2x 360 and all major components under water unless it blocked airflow completely.


it is very much relevant. you obviously havent read enough posts concerning high temps because of insufficient air flow to the rads. that 'h' is for 'hush' series, aka silent. it is not for hydro, at all.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> it is very much relevant. you obviously havent read enough posts concerning high temps because of insufficient air flow to the rads. that 'h' is for 'hush' series, aka silent. it is not for hydro, at all.


Well that would depend on how much it limited the airflow. Surely it isnt bad enough to prevent fans at 1000rpm from operating at their full potential. I could see it being an issue if you were running a single rad because fan speed requirements would be much highter but it takes a lot to saturate 2 360 rads. I don't own that particular case so obviously I can't speak from experience but it seems odd that any case manufacturer would produce a case so restrictive it would choke out two 360 rads, especially one so highly reviewed.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Well that would depend on how much it limited the airflow. Surely it isnt bad enough to prevent fans at 1000rpm from operating at their full potential. I could see it being an issue if you were running a single rad because fan speed requirements would be much highter but it takes a lot to saturate 2 360 rads. I don't own that particular case so obviously I can't speak from experience but it seems odd that any case manufacturer would produce a case so restrictive it would choke out two 360 rads, especially one so highly reviewed.


well i can tell you from users posting here since the case was new.
reviews mean nothing. reviewers can be bought and paid for. reviewers can be fan-boys. reviewers can have absolutely no idea what is good or bad.
1 user with a problem:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1501208/nzxt-h440-laser-cutting-front-panel-and-top#post_22562303
and what he did
http://www.overclock.net/t/1508896/build-log-nzxt-h440-project-blackthunder#post_22743482

there are many, many more.

i dont talk crap about companies and products for zero reason. i have a reason for everything i call crap.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> well i can tell you from users posting here since the case was new.
> reviews mean nothing. reviewers can be bought and paid for. reviewers can be fan-boys. reviewers can have absolutely no idea what is good or bad.
> 1 user with a problem:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501208/nzxt-h440-laser-cutting-front-panel-and-top#post_22562303
> and what he did
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1508896/build-log-nzxt-h440-project-blackthunder#post_22743482
> 
> there are many, many more.
> 
> i dont talk crap about companies and products for zero reason. i have a reason for everything i call crap.


I stand corrected. I've never seen that detailed a shot of just the front panel. Barely has a gap.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Watercooling club, I request your assistance! I'm expanding my loop and I need to find a low profile fillport than can sit as close to flush with the top of my case as possible. Does anyone have any recommendations?

EDIT: G1/4" is a preferred bonus!


----------



## wermad

Ek one looks pretty flush.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-fillport-g1-4-black-nickel.html


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ek one looks pretty flush.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-fillport-g1-4-black-nickel.html


Beautiful! I'd been searching for quite a while now and for some reason I wasn't able to find anything like that.









EDIT: Is there a male fill port as well? I have .5" inches of clearance in the bottom of my case that I could make use as a drain port.


----------



## wermad

Edit: you can always add a m-m adapter.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: you can always add a m-m adapter.


No space.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, loops are filled. Just need to put the rest together. What do you think? I am in love with this, it's so gorgeous I want to start crying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad right? For a first time ever building a computer, and 18 years old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As a fellow swede I approve of this







. Looks amazing, is there a build log somewhere or a rundown of the watercooling components?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> No space.


Damn, that's tight. Most fill ports are female to accommodate your choice of connecting fitting. Btw, this uses a larger g3/8 plug for the top. Comes in handy when filling up with the squeeze bottle or funnel


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> No space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, that's tight. Most fill ports are female to accommodate your choice of connecting fitting. Btw, this uses a larger g3/8 plug for the top. Comes in handy when filling up with the squeeze bottle or funnel
Click to expand...

That'll be useful! I bought a 250ml tube res to go along with my 360mm Monsta. I have a crappy MS Paint drawing of what I'm going to try and do. I think it will work just fine, but would you mind giving it a look-over?


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Watercooling club, I request your assistance! I'm expanding my loop and I need to find a low profile fillport than can sit as close to flush with the top of my case as possible. Does anyone have any recommendations?
> 
> EDIT: G1/4" is a preferred bonus!


Bitspower makes a really low profile one also.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-matte-black-finish.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

I think the EK ones are a little smaller than the Bitspower


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, loops are filled. Just need to put the rest together. What do you think? I am in love with this, it's so gorgeous I want to start crying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad right? For a first time ever building a computer, and 18 years old


That's a great looking build. You should post some more pics of it, or a link to a build log if you have one.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> As a fellow swede I approve of this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Looks amazing, is there a build log somewhere or a rundown of the watercooling components?


Hi









Sure there is build logs









"Project Three Leaves"

Got one in swedish at the sweclocker forum under project logs, and on in english at bit tech forum, same category.

I am not allowed to link them here, so you have to find them yourself, not that hard though









Thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Oh Boy...Back from vacations and just had to catch up with more than a 1000 posts...Happy 2016 folks







Time to finish Old copper.


----------



## PedroC1999

Will the G1/4 temp sensors work at the top of my top radiator or not?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Will the G1/4 temp sensors work at the top of my top radiator or not?


If its in contact with the coolant, it should.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> That's a great looking build. You should post some more pics of it, or a link to a build log if you have one.


ITS ITS ITS ALIVE MUHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

Nice work. Glad you over came and got it working just watch it like a hawk


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> ITS ITS ITS ALIVE MUHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
> 
> Nice work. Glad you over came and got it working just watch it like a hawk


I think you quoted the wrong person.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> That'll be useful! I bought a 250ml tube res to go along with my 360mm Monsta. I have a crappy MS Paint drawing of what I'm going to try and do. I think it will work just fine, but would you mind giving it a look-over?


After accidentally drilling the hole a bit too large for the last of my bulk-head's on the acrylic, it ended up better then I thought. It made it completely flush with the acrylic and thankfully, the aluminum was still the right size (good thing I drilled each one separately after the pilot hole was done.







Mind the dust


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Water cooling noob here. What is the hard clear tubing made of or is it colored tubing with clear liquid.? Buying a phantec pro and I'm gonna try to do a gpu and cpu on one rad. Probably 360 in the front or top with push pull. As simple as I can get it but I want to use the hard tubing. What is it and where can I get it please.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Water cooling noob here. What is the hard clear tubing made of or is it colored tubing with clear liquid.? Buying a phantec pro and I'm gonna try to do a gpu and cpu on one rad. Probably 360 in the front or top with push pull. As simple as I can get it but I want to use the hard tubing. What is it and where can I get it please.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1490076/petg-tubing-vs-acrylic-tubing-pros-cons


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You should do that for all the passthrus Werm, it looks good.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You should do that for all the passthrus Werm, it looks good.


Im going to have to second that Notion.

TCO


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> That'll be useful! I bought a 250ml tube res to go along with my 360mm Monsta. I have a crappy MS Paint drawing of what I'm going to try and do. I think it will work just fine, but would you mind giving it a look-over?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After accidentally drilling the hole a bit too large for the last of my bulk-head's on the acrylic, it ended up better then I thought. It made it completely flush with the acrylic and thankfully, the aluminum was still the right size (good thing I drilled each one separately after the pilot hole was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind the dust
Click to expand...

That looks really good!


----------



## wermad

Here's a cleaned up shot:



Edit: thinking of polishing w/ some white compound to get rid of this micro scratches. In person, you can't tell the acrylic is smoked. I just found my spare acrylic sheets and I have more then enough to make replacements. Wish it had some red acrylic sheets....


----------



## PCModderMike

I haven't been in this thread since September of last year. Wow this thread flies by!









Welp, I've been up and running with my S5 build for a few months now but I never took pics. Part of the reason was because the finish on my pedestal didn't match the S5 perfectly and it bugged me. I bought my S5 many months before the pedestal, and it was a discontinued color so when I ordered the pedestal, it ended up not being exactly the same.
But I still like how it turned out. I torn down the build last night to part it out and sell off most of my parts so I decided to snap some pics before it went down.


----------



## iCrap

My rads were getting all nasty so i repainted em, 2 down 3 to go.

Not sure how glossy i'll be able to get them with a rattlecan job... still have to try wetsanding and polishing.

Also wasn't totally sure on the blue... but i'm bored of black.


----------



## wermad

Nice color choice


----------



## rathar3

I took my watercooled system (blue and white) to school yesterday to show a group of 8th graders in a computer club what you can do with computers besides order one from someone or get one at walmart.

IT SURVIVED !!!!!!!!!!!!!. Seems alot of kids understood the basics but were blow away by what they saw. They got to see it run and saw the temps and such they took pictures with there phones and just had a good time. I got a card they made and lots of thanks from alot of the teachers and staff.

Sounds like their might be a few new pumpheads coming up in the ranks. Lugging a core x9 around was not fun but was worth it since the kids had such a good time. I made a list of all the equipment in it and the teacher explained how it all worked.

One teacher was SO happy to see the new 3D printer. She was shocked it was just a computer and a little let down LOL

On the upside was a good way to get the air out of the system and still no leaks.

All and all a think it was a good thing to do
.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> I took my watercooled system (blue and white) to school yesterday to show a group of 8th graders in a computer club what you can do with computers besides order one from someone or get one at walmart.
> 
> IT SURVIVED !!!!!!!!!!!!!. Seems alot of kids understood the basics but were blow away by what they saw. They got to see it run and saw the temps and such they took pictures with there phones and just had a good time. I got a card they made and lots of thanks from alot of the teachers and staff.
> 
> Sounds like their might be a few new pumpheads coming up in the ranks. Lugging a core x9 around was not fun but was worth it since the kids had such a good time. I made a list of all the equipment in it and the teacher explained how it all worked.
> 
> One teacher was SO happy to see the new 3D printer. She was shocked it was just a computer and a little let down LOL


Grooming the next gen of PC enthusiasts eh? Good for you!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

just wondering.. do you think reds and green and black acrylic would be too christmasy? Cuz I am thinkinabout going for a WMD theme and red and green are the colors for the intl. symbol WMD/biochemical weapons symbol (cuz its tiny matx or itx build... but with hardcore hardware inside







(6700k or 5960x with binned oc ram and oc mobo with custom watercooling)

I found these bitspower touchaqua colored compression fittings and I wanna find a good red xcoolant.

Green on the outside or inside black on middle and red inside. maybe?
either that or I was thinking to try black and yellow on the outside for a biohazard symbol inlay

or just black and red... with inlays...

OH DAMN ME MDAMN ME TO HELL!! SO CLOSE YET SO FAR! THIS ISNT THE OC BOARD YOU JACKWAGONS
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-asrix99-nickel-plated-water-block-clear.html
this needs to be for x99m fatality 3.1

I dont want to buy another damn x99 board!

oh this is for taking back and forth to college autodesk stuff.. school pcs take 5 minutes just to login.. and forever to load the program...

I could get away with a 6700and my M8i.. but since you dont want to OC for calculations.. I'd rather have the 8core...

i already have all the hardware basically..6700k 5960x.. i am gonna sell the 5960x soon for a broadwell-k though


----------



## willemdoom

Does anyone know if aquacomputer ac backplates fit on watercool gpu blocks?


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Does anyone know if aquacomputer ac backplates fit on watercool gpu blocks?


It won't


----------



## DarthBaggins

So have to ask since I'm about to drain the X1 out of my loop (nearly been run a year which I was told was its max time use) and swap to using distilled again. What would be my best bet on a biocide since im using BitsPower Nickel blocks?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So have to ask since I'm about to drain the X1 out of my loop (nearly been run a year which I was told was its max time use) and swap to using distilled again. What would be my best bet on a biocide since im using BitsPower Nickel blocks?


Mayhems makes a decent Biocide
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-biocide-extreme.html

Looks like PPC is out . direct from the source
http://mayhems.co.uk/algaecides/


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pbuI92Cgj

https://imageshack.com/i/p7DhSCpaj

Got some of the Chromax bits, fans look a lot smarter.


----------



## rodaduck

those look good .


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone here have experience with the XSPC Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir?

Namely this one :

HERE

Any cons to using this like poor performance even with dual D5 pumps or issues with flow etc? (not really worried about the vibration aspect of bay reservoirs.

Thanks:thumb:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Mayhems makes a decent Biocide
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-biocide-extreme.html
> 
> Looks like PPC is out . direct from the source
> http://mayhems.co.uk/algaecides/


Yeah I'd prefer to order from someone stateside since I'm planning on draining the loop this weekend/week and starting to flush out the x1, already bought my 2.5gal of Distilled (only $195 too). Just was trying to find something other than Mayhems as well too. Almost tempted to sell my Nickle blocks and convert to all copper to avoid having to use a biocide additive since kill coils have work perfectly in the past (but I had all copper then)


----------



## rodaduck

did you just say 195 dollars for distilled water?


----------



## Touge180SX

Haha, thought I was the only one who read that wrong!


----------



## Ithanul

That sure some expensive distilled water.


----------



## wermad

82¢ for a gallon @ walmart ftw.

edit: could be angel tears limited special turbo nos supercharged ultra classified GT1 LMP1 F1 Saturn-V Energia-Vulkan edition distilled


----------



## jacob650

Umm i guess i can post my build.


----------



## wermad

Gorgeous


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacob650*
> 
> Umm i guess i can post my build.


Very nice!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah I'd prefer to order from someone stateside since I'm planning on draining the loop this weekend/week and starting to flush out the x1, already bought my 2.5gal of Distilled (only $195 too). Just was trying to find something other than Mayhems as well too. Almost tempted to sell my Nickle blocks and convert to all copper to avoid having to use a biocide additive since kill coils have work perfectly in the past (but I had all copper then)


I use distilled with PT Nuke PHN, not the copper sulfate kind, with nickel blocks for about 6 months so far. The water is still perfectly clear, no hint of funk present.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacob650*
> 
> Umm i guess i can post my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ooo, now that is sharp looking.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I couldn't figure it why the CPU block above looked so weird. I was gonna ask until I realized it was part of a monoblock.

Edit: not weird bad, just different to the norm. I actually quiet like it which is why it caught my attention.


----------



## InsideJob

I've finally put together my first loop, although it's just an expanded H220-X. Going to drain and refill with mayhems pastel green next week.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I couldn't figure it why the CPU block above looked so weird. I was gonna ask until I realized it was part of a monoblock.


I kinda liked the old impact block (6 & 7)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lmao I forgot to add a decimal. It was $1.95 not $195 (that's the magical distilled I used for other things


----------



## jacob650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I kinda liked the old impact block (6 & 7)


yeah I liked the old one as it cooled the PCH, But perhaps they cheaper out to save money or it didn't need it?


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I haven't been in this thread since September of last year. Wow this thread flies by!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welp, I've been up and running with my S5 build for a few months now but I never took pics. Part of the reason was because the finish on my pedestal didn't match the S5 perfectly and it bugged me. I bought my S5 many months before the pedestal, and it was a discontinued color so when I ordered the pedestal, it ended up not being exactly the same.
> But I still like how it turned out. I torn down the build last night to part it out and sell off most of my parts so I decided to snap some pics before it went down.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Always loved your builds and photos Mike. Super clean build mate, well done!


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacob650*
> 
> Umm i guess i can post my build.


Nice build. External PSU?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lmao I forgot to add a decimal. It was $1.95 not $195 (that's the magical distilled I used for other things


You really really need to share that Magical distilled with the rest of us. Just saying


----------



## jodybdesigns

I picked up some distilled water that was distilled a couple more times and has some biocides in it for a CPAP machine. I am running no silver coil. Been almost 3 weeks and everything is clear and my white tubing is not turning pink from the silver coil interacting with the copper blocks this time. I bought it at Food City in the Pharmacy department. So far so good.


----------



## Radox-0

That looks amazing. Very nice
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacob650*
> 
> Umm i guess i can post my build.










Very nice work, looks really sweet that build


----------



## Benjiw

Does anyone know is anybody has fitted a thicker 420 into a Define S? You're limited by 30mm in the top of the define S. I have a Monsta 360 and wanted to fit the Phobya G changer 420 in the same case but it kind of looks like I won't be able to do that lol.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I use distilled with PT Nuke PHN, not the copper sulfate kind, with nickel blocks for about 6 months so far. The water is still perfectly clear, no hint of funk present.


I do the same, though heat has made my Advanced LRT cloudy a few times so far, typical of my AMD heater unit.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Does anyone know is anybody has fitted a thicker 420 into a Define S? You're limited by 30mm in the top of the define S. I have a Monsta 360 and wanted to fit the Phobya G changer 420 in the same case but it kind of looks like I won't be able to do that lol.


By the Define S manual the max for the top is 55mm with rad and fan, so you can't really fit a thick rad up there.

The front is 60mm max for rad.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jacob650*
> 
> Umm i guess i can post my build.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build. External PSU?
Click to expand...

Nope, Air 240 has a back half of the case, where you keep the reservoir, another 240mm radiator, pump, and PSU.

Random unrelated question for our modders here... anyone have experience with both Natural White and White-X MDPC sleeving? One says neutral to cool, one says neutral to warm.. but the pictures look the same.

Deciding what would look best inside a air 240 with a white, black and red theme...

http://www.caselabs-store.com/white-x-mdpc-x-sleeve-25ft/
http://www.caselabs-store.com/natural-white-mdpc-x-sleeve-25-feet/


----------



## jacob650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Nope, Air 240 has a back half of the case, where you keep the reservoir, another 240mm radiator, pump, and PSU.
> 
> Random unrelated question for our modders here... anyone have experience with both Natural White and White-X MDPC sleeving? One says neutral to cool, one says neutral to warm.. but the pictures look the same.
> 
> Deciding what would look best inside a air 240 with a white, black and red theme...
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/white-x-mdpc-x-sleeve-25ft/
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/natural-white-mdpc-x-sleeve-25-feet/


Thanks for answering Bud! and i can't wait to see your build, i can tell it will be clean from the sleeving you are choosing


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacob650*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Nope, Air 240 has a back half of the case, where you keep the reservoir, another 240mm radiator, pump, and PSU.
> 
> Random unrelated question for our modders here... anyone have experience with both Natural White and White-X MDPC sleeving? One says neutral to cool, one says neutral to warm.. but the pictures look the same.
> 
> Deciding what would look best inside a air 240 with a white, black and red theme...
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/white-x-mdpc-x-sleeve-25ft/
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/natural-white-mdpc-x-sleeve-25-feet/
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for answering Bud! and i can't wait to see your build, i can tell it will be clean from the sleeving you are choosing
Click to expand...

Yea if I can figure out the difference between white-x and natural white... then I can place that order... well, and when performance-pcs gets more monsoon items back in stock so i can make my order









Any chance you can post the picture of your drain setup again for your loop? I know you used one of the BP rotary T fittings, just don't remember how and where.


----------



## jacob650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea if I can figure out the difference between white-x and natural white... then I can place that order... well, and when performance-pcs gets more monsoon items back in stock so i can make my order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance you can post the picture of your drain setup again for your loop? I know you used one of the BP rotary T fittings, just don't remember how and where.


Here is pic when i started, you can see where the tube comes from the pump at the rear of the case to the front mounted rad, connected to a T-fitting. same is for the other side side, i found this the easiest and simplest way soo far, especially if im not messing with the loop for a while. maybe when new Gen GPU's ill upgrade mines.....again


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacob650*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea if I can figure out the difference between white-x and natural white... then I can place that order... well, and when performance-pcs gets more monsoon items back in stock so i can make my order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance you can post the picture of your drain setup again for your loop? I know you used one of the BP rotary T fittings, just don't remember how and where.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is pic when i started, you can see where the tube comes from the pump at the rear of the case to the front mounted rad, connected to a T-fitting. same is for the other side side, i found this the easiest and simplest way soo far, especially if im not messing with the loop for a while. maybe when new Gen GPU's ill upgrade mines.....again
Click to expand...

Cool thank you sir. I'm trying to be as exact as I can when I make my order from PPCS so I don't have to pay for the shipping charges twice. We'll see how that goes, lol


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Question for the cooling PROs. Do you think this AIO with one of there GPU blocks would be enough to keep both a I7 6700k not overclocked and a GTX 980 Kingpin cool. Recon the AIO pump would push through another 240 rad in the loop. Rather do without the extra rad but if it would make a substantial difference then I would if the pump could pump it. Don't want to do the whole cooling build because of my health and just want to keep things simple but still look pretty good. What do you think, it is swiftech. Put the 360 in the top, to the CPU then the GPU or put another 240 thick rad between the cpu and the card? From what I've read, the pump is supposed to be pretty strong. Just going to stick with the flex tubing and keep it as neat as I can. Here is the link to the cooler with the pump built in.

http://www.swiftech.com/h320x2prestige.aspx


----------



## VSG

That should be plenty fine, but what GPU block were you thinking of? Swiftech doesn't make a block for the GTX 980 Classified Kingpin edition card.

You can add in the 240mm rad also, and anywhere in the loop convenient to you is fine.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Does anyone know is anybody has fitted a thicker 420 into a Define S? You're limited by 30mm in the top of the define S. I have a Monsta 360 and wanted to fit the Phobya G changer 420 in the same case but it kind of looks like I won't be able to do that lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> By the Define S manual the max for the top is 55mm with rad and fan, so you can't really fit a thick rad up there.
> 
> The front is 60mm max for rad.


I tried to put my 30mm thick koolance 280mm rad and 25mm thick noiseblocker fans in the top of my define s, it fouled on the motherboard io cover.

If you want 140mm fan rads in the top you need ek's 25mm thick ones, but honestly you're better off using a 240 or 360 rad which is offset for clearance.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Nope, Air 240 has a back half of the case, where you keep the reservoir, another 240mm radiator, pump, and PSU.
> 
> Random unrelated question for our modders here... anyone have experience with both Natural White and White-X MDPC sleeving? One says neutral to cool, one says neutral to warm.. but the pictures look the same.
> 
> Deciding what would look best inside a air 240 with a white, black and red theme...
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/white-x-mdpc-x-sleeve-25ft/
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/natural-white-mdpc-x-sleeve-25-feet/


Cool has a blue base,Warm has a yellow base.

Its a very slight tint,almost unnoticeable.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Back from a month worth vacations I am working on Old Copper again. PSU is been prepared:



green base and texture


and copper with matte cover




and Voilà:



Don't mind the sticker. Most likely not final yet. While final liquid will be something greenish/blueish and could go along that sticker the final one will most likely be transparent with simple greenish/blueish letter saying Old Copper. More pics on the build log.


----------



## iCrap

So i've been considering getting rid of my 800d but I dunno what to get.... What's the smallest atx case which can fit 2 360 rads?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> So i've been considering getting rid of my 800d but I dunno what to get.... What's the smallest atx case which can fit 2 360 rads?


with or without modding? do you need drive bays?
we need a lot more than you gave us.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> with or without modding? do you need drive bays?
> we need a lot more than you gave us.


Don't mind modding....
I only need 1 5.25 bay, for my Aquero. Need to fit 2 3.5" hdds and a few SSDs

Along with my tube reserviour somewhere in the case.

My 800d can't even fit 2 360 rads which is why i want to change it. The 800d is also really big, and for how big it is you can't really fit that much into it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> So i've been considering getting rid of my 800d but I dunno what to get.... What's the smallest atx case which can fit 2 360 rads?


Maybe not the smallest, but certainly the most customizable / flexible option would be an S8.

It would also offer room for the system to grow a little with another rad in the flex bays besides a pair of 360's on top, and then if you need a lot more cooling, just add a pedestal.

The side compartment has plenty of room for all the drives you mention, and then some.

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

If you can comfortably fit 2 360s +OD slot in a case its going to be bigger than an 800D.

To me the best compromise is a 360 and a 280. They arent much different in terms of radspace and you get enough front panel space for optical drives slots.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If you can comfortably fit 2 360s +OD slot in a case its going to be bigger than an 800D.
> 
> To me the best compromise is a 360 and a 280. They arent much different in terms of radspace and you get enough front panel space for optical drives slots.


yep. its either going to be tall or a cube which can also be pretty damned big.

i modded out my corsair 500r to hold a 360 and a 240. still had enough room for a fan controller and a 2x odd bay to 3x hdd bay. big mid tower or small full tower, either will need modded and either will be cramped with more than minimums.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> with or without modding? do you need drive bays?
> we need a lot more than you gave us.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't mind modding....
> I only need 1 5.25 bay, for my Aquero. Need to fit 2 3.5" hdds and a few SSDs
> 
> Along with my tube reserviour somewhere in the case.
> 
> My 800d can't even fit 2 360 rads which is why i want to change it. The 800d is also really big, and for how big it is you can't really fit that much into it.
Click to expand...

How about a case that can fit three 240mm radiators? You'd have to convert to mATX though









Okay, shameless plug over.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> So i've been considering getting rid of my 800d but I dunno what to get.... What's the smallest atx case which can fit 2 360 rads?


What's your budget and what do you need to fit in it?


----------



## Questors

Wow! Lots to catch up on in this thread! Only 30 some pages to go!









Happy to report the polishing of the SLI bridge exterior came out great. Now for the water passages inside the SLI bridge block.

Any suggestions how to sand and polish them, especially without ruining the threads?



I have seen these same bridges here on OCN with these passages crystal clear, I can't seem to devise a method to hold the sandpaper and keep it attached to "work it" inside there.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Maybe not the smallest, but certainly the most customizable / flexible option would be an S8.
> 
> It would also offer room for the system to grow a little with another rad in the flex bays besides a pair of 360's on top, and then if you need a lot more cooling, just add a pedestal.
> 
> The side compartment has plenty of room for all the drives you mention, and then some.
> 
> Darlene


I like the caselabs but i'm fairly sure it wont fit in my space. i gotta check though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If you can comfortably fit 2 360s +OD slot in a case its going to be bigger than an 800D.
> 
> To me the best compromise is a 360 and a 280. They arent much different in terms of radspace and you get enough front panel space for optical drives slots.


I'd like to use my 360s since i already have them, but yeah if i must i wouldn't mind getting rid of one and getting a 280. What case fits a 360 / 280 though?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yep. its either going to be tall or a cube which can also be pretty damned big.
> 
> i modded out my corsair 500r to hold a 360 and a 240. still had enough room for a fan controller and a 2x odd bay to 3x hdd bay. big mid tower or small full tower, either will need modded and either will be cramped with more than minimums.


I have my 800d modded to fit a 360, 240 and 120.
So i was thinking my options are either get a better 240 for this case, or switch to a case which i can fit my 2 black ice gtx360s.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How about a case that can fit three 240mm radiators? You'd have to convert to mATX though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, shameless plug over.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


lol which case is that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What's your budget and what do you need to fit in it?


budget is flexible so i dunno, as long as its not too crazy exensive.

As far as what i need to fit in it, pretty much what's in my sig rig.

2 gpus, sound card, tube res (photon 270), 3 ssds 2 hdds, aquero 6, etc.

And as far as rads, i have these (not all of them are in use)
2x black ice gtx360
1x xspc ex240
1x rs120
1x black ice gtx120

And i'd like to fit as much as what i can without having to buy other rads if possible.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How about a case that can fit three 240mm radiators? You'd have to convert to mATX though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, shameless plug over.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> lol which case is that?
Click to expand...

My custom case called Project mATX. mATX size case designed around full water cooling with support for three 240mm radiators in under 20L of space. All metal construction. Based on the Compact Splash design/layout with some tweaks. Link in my sig.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello

Which one is better ? for water colling system ?

Thermal Grizzly VS PK - 3


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Which one is better ? for water colling system ?
> 
> Thermal Grizzly VS PK - 3


Which of the Thermal Grizzly? The Kryonaut is (equal to Gelid GC extreme3)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Maybe not the smallest, but certainly the most customizable / flexible option would be an S8.
> 
> It would also offer room for the system to grow a little with another rad in the flex bays besides a pair of 360's on top, and then if you need a lot more cooling, just add a pedestal.
> 
> The side compartment has plenty of room for all the drives you mention, and then some.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I like the caselabs but i'm fairly sure it wont fit in my space. i gotta check though
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If you can comfortably fit 2 360s +OD slot in a case its going to be bigger than an 800D.
> 
> To me the best compromise is a 360 and a 280. They arent much different in terms of radspace and you get enough front panel space for optical drives slots.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd like to use my 360s since i already have them, but yeah if i must i wouldn't mind getting rid of one and getting a 280. What case fits a 360 / 280 though?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yep. its either going to be tall or a cube which can also be pretty damned big.
> 
> i modded out my corsair 500r to hold a 360 and a 240. still had enough room for a fan controller and a 2x odd bay to 3x hdd bay. big mid tower or small full tower, either will need modded and either will be cramped with more than minimums.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have my 800d modded to fit a 360, 240 and 120.
> So i was thinking my options are either get a better 240 for this case, or switch to a case which i can fit my 2 black ice gtx360s.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> How about a case that can fit three 240mm radiators? You'd have to convert to mATX though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, shameless plug over.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> lol which case is that?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What's your budget and what do you need to fit in it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> budget is flexible so i dunno, as long as its not too crazy exensive.
> 
> As far as what i need to fit in it, pretty much what's in my sig rig.
> 
> 2 gpus, sound card, tube res (photon 270), 3 ssds 2 hdds, aquero 6, etc.
> 
> And as far as rads, i have these (not all of them are in use)
> 2x black ice gtx360
> 1x xspc ex240
> 1x rs120
> 1x black ice gtx120
> 
> And i'd like to fit as much as what i can without having to buy other rads if possible.
Click to expand...

Since your 360's are very high fpi, you want to be sure to select a case that will let you configure your fans in push-pull to get the most from those GTX's.

D.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Which one is better ? for water colling system ?
> 
> Thermal Grizzly VS PK - 3


Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is better than Gelid CE Extreme by small margin









Gelid CE Extreme is better than PK-3 by huge margin


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is better than Gelid CE Extreme by small margin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gelid CE Extreme is better than PK-3 by huge margin


As i searched Thermal Grizzly have 3 serial

Thermal Grizzly Aeronaut
Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

which one is for what?

and if i can use some of them for VGA too? or its only for CPU?


----------



## wermad

I'm using gelid for the cpu but good ol' ceramique-2 on the gpu cores.


----------



## Kimir

I ran out of Gelid, using Kryonaut on everything now.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> As i searched Thermal Grizzly have 3 serial
> 
> Thermal Grizzly Aeronaut
> Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut
> Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
> 
> which one is for what?
> 
> and if i can use some of them for VGA too? or its only for CPU?


I have used Hydronaught and Kryonaut fine in both GPU and CPU applications with no issue. Kyronnaut is the better stuff, at least according to the specs.


----------



## Kimir

The PK-3 is not far off.
http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/


----------



## Bonjovi

Yea ill buy Kryonaut

as i read PK-3 is not reccomended for GPU because its electrical conductivity

So Kryonaut is not electrical conductivity right?


----------



## wermad

ceramique 2 is a couple of degrees behind Gelid....well, still got a bunch of the stuff (got a 10g tube on sale from the old jab-tech closing sale) and its decent. That Gelid 10g tub on ebay for $23 looks tempting...


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Yea ill buy Kryonaut
> 
> as i read PK-3 is not reccomended for GPU because its electrical conductivity
> 
> So Kryonaut is not electrical conductivity right?


Your on the right track


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I'd like to use my 360s since i already have them, but yeah if i must i wouldn't mind getting rid of one and getting a 280. What case fits a 360 / 280 though?


Ive found the 750D and 760T do this reasonably well without any modifications and there are a bunch of other cases that can as well. The 800D cant?

I have a 280mm nemesis gtx in my 750D right now. I would like a new case but ive been looking for one and cant find one that's right.


----------



## DarthBaggins

what about a Caselabs SM8? at least then it's only single wide not a fancy double wide


----------



## wermad

How about the Shinobi xl? It is a bit plain but its a nice "blank" canvas for modding and maybe some custom paint.

The front has an opening in the drive bays iirc, to add a 360 to the front (besides the top option).


----------



## DarthBaggins

I still love the looks of the Fractal Arc Mini R2, small package w/ alot of possibilities


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Ive found the 750D and 760T do this reasonably well without any modifications and there are a bunch of other cases that can as well. The 800D cant?
> 
> I have a 280mm nemesis gtx in my 750D right now. I would like a new case but ive been looking for one and cant find one that's right.


The problem with the 800d is there is so much wasted space. You can't fit a rad in the front.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> what about a Caselabs SM8? at least then it's only single wide not a fancy double wide


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How about the Shinobi xl? It is a bit plain but its a nice "blank" canvas for modding and maybe some custom paint.
> 
> The front has an opening in the drive bays iirc, to add a 360 to the front (besides the top option).


I''ll have a look at those now and see if they'll work.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> The problem with the 800d is there is so much wasted space. You can't fit a rad in the front.
> 
> I''ll have a look at those now and see if they'll work.


look at some of the Phanteks offerings too... The enthoo pro or pro M for example.

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES515P_Western.pdf

edit - wow, the evolv can handle 360 front and top...

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES515E_Western.pdf


----------



## VeritronX

The tj07 is slightly smaller and lighter than the 800d and can fit 2-3 480mm rad with modifications.. if modding is something that appeals to you =P

I still haven't gotten around to mine yet apart from modding the top to fit a 480 rad.. Now that I have a define s it probably won't happen until I buy all new pc parts.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> *The tj07*


....is the best suggestion so far.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jacob650*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Nope, Air 240 has a back half of the case, where you keep the reservoir, another 240mm radiator, pump, and PSU.
> 
> Random unrelated question for our modders here... anyone have experience with both Natural White and White-X MDPC sleeving? One says neutral to cool, one says neutral to warm.. but the pictures look the same.
> 
> Deciding what would look best inside a air 240 with a white, black and red theme...
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/white-x-mdpc-x-sleeve-25ft/
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/natural-white-mdpc-x-sleeve-25-feet/
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for answering Bud! and i can't wait to see your build, i can tell it will be clean from the sleeving you are choosing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yea if I can figure out the difference between white-x and natural white... then I can place that order... well, and when performance-pcs gets more monsoon items back in stock so i can make my order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance you can post the picture of your drain setup again for your loop? I know you used one of the BP rotary T fittings, just don't remember how and where.
Click to expand...

Honestly I would have Nils send me a small portion of each to get a sense of what I want to do. He's pretty good about such things.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ceramique 2 is a couple of degrees behind Gelid....well, still got a bunch of the stuff (got a 10g tube on sale from the old jab-tech closing sale) and its decent. That Gelid 10g tub on ebay for $23 looks tempting...


I dunno

Ceramique...
 v. 

Whenever I use Ceramique (generally for washers and not for TIM) I'm always reminded by the texture and tackiness, of Jet Puffed.







lulz

stuff is a serious PITA to apply. It gets on everything.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly I would have Nils send me a small portion of each to get a sense of what I want to do. He's pretty good about such things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno
> 
> Ceramique...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> v.
> 
> 
> 
> Whenever I use Ceramique (generally for washers and not for TIM) I'm always reminded by the texture and tackiness, of Jet Puffed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> stuff is a serious PITA to apply. It gets on everything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










dude, where's the old ceadderman....I guess long gone....so is the quad 932 stacked Deathstar







.

edit: Meh, its ah'ight









On topic: placed my final order to get my loop finally finished after waiting a month for a dead-beat seller who never did squat.

What a pain to test all these fittings







.


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question, two D5 varios on setting 3 shouldn't have problems with flow using a 360 and 480 hardware labs black ice nemesis gts rads correct?

I know they are a restrictive radiator and that's why I ask. Other than it would be the typical amount of 1 cpu 2 gpu blocks along with array of fittings.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly I would have Nils send me a small portion of each to get a sense of what I want to do. He's pretty good about such things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno
> 
> Ceramique...
> v.
> 
> Whenever I use Ceramique (generally for washers and not for TIM) I'm always reminded by the texture and tackiness, of Jet Puffed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> stuff is a serious PITA to apply. It gets on everything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Uhhhh, kinda looks like something else besides Marshmallow Creme, can be just as sticky though.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question, two D5 varios on setting 3 shouldn't have problems with flow using a 360 and 480 hardware labs black ice nemesis gts rads correct?
> 
> I know they are a restrictive radiator and that's why I ask. Other than it would be the typical amount of 1 cpu 2 gpu blocks along with array of fittings.


I would think they have no problem. I have one D5 vario on setting 4 pushing through a HWLab Black Ice SR2 360, Phyoba 200, Raystorm, and two GPU full cover blocks with no problems.


----------



## Gabri85

my creation..not cool as yours but works


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabri85*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> my creation..not cool as yours but works


This is win.


----------



## Radox-0

Spent the weekend finally completing my HTPC build in the Lian-Li PC-O5S. Also my new X99 parts for main PC arrived so recut some of the tubing and removed a couple of fittings. Was a fun weekend









Main build



HTPC


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Had a bit of a result today,salvaged an old workstation from work....boots it up and it has a X5650 in it and a Quadro card!

Its now keeping the Shedlab warm.

Its not all good,it does have Dell on the side of the case.....and a profusion of green PCB inside......But for free? Amazing.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Spent the weekend finally completing my HTPC build in the Lian-Li PC-O5S. Also my new X99 parts for main PC arrived so recut some of the tubing and removed a couple of fittings. Was a fun weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Main build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HTPC


vere interesting HTPC case and build. Well done. I like that Lian-li series of cases.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> vere interesting HTPC case and build. Well done. I like that Lian-li series of cases.


Thanks buddy









Admittedly the case was somewhat bigger then I expected so really stretches the definition of being a HTPC, but loved it too much. Not all bad as the R9 Nano performs better then I expected and with the 4690k has created a decent console replacement machine for the living room.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Thanks buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Admittedly the case was somewhat bigger then I expected so really stretches the definition of being a HTPC, but loved it too much. Not all bad as the R9 Nano performs better then I expected and with the 4690k has created a decent console replacement machine for the living room.


The Nano is a pretty great card when watercooled, probably a better buy than the Fury X now with the price drop.


----------



## InsideJob

My first loop is complete!















I've been waiting 2 years at least for this day.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well done that man.


----------



## Muldu

Thought that I would post some pics of my build here. Very happy with how it turned out.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Had a bit of a result today,salvaged an old workstation from work....boots it up and it has a X5650 in it and a Quadro card!
> 
> Its now keeping the Shedlab warm.
> 
> Its not all good,it does have Dell on the side of the case.....and a profusion of green PCB inside......But for free? Amazing.


nice find you lucky butt...


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Had a bit of a result today,salvaged an old workstation from work....boots it up and it has a X5650 in it and a Quadro card!
> 
> Its now keeping the Shedlab warm.
> 
> Its not all good,it does have Dell on the side of the case.....and a profusion of green PCB inside......But for free? Amazing.


what quadro card is in it? you lucky devil









always wanted to try a workstation card out! but there too damn expensive









nice find! im just curious what card it is tho


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well done that man.


Thanks Senpai.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> My first loop is complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been waiting 2 years at least for this day.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


what coolant is that I really like the color


----------



## InsideJob

Mayhems pastel green.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Had a bit of a result today,salvaged an old workstation from work.


You have a day job?!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly I would have Nils send me a small portion of each to get a sense of what I want to do. He's pretty good about such things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno
> 
> Ceramique...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> v.
> 
> 
> 
> Whenever I use Ceramique (generally for washers and not for TIM) I'm always reminded by the texture and tackiness, of Jet Puffed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> stuff is a serious PITA to apply. It gets on everything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dude, where's the old ceadderman....I guess long gone....so is the quad 932 stacked Deathstar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> edit: Meh, its ah'ight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On topic: placed my final order to get my loop finally finished after waiting a month for a dead-beat seller who never did squat.
> 
> What a pain to test all these fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Meh, I'm still me. Never used Ceramique for chip cooling. My brother was given a tube of the stuff in the mid 90s and he used it for a couple applications but just tossed it and forgot it in a drawer. I inherited the stuff, but generally went for Shin Etsu products over Arctic Silver before he ever gave it to me.









And I squashed the Triple 932 due to a couple people mating dual 932s based on what I had publicly intended to do. I'm more of a banging my drum to the tune of what is rattling around in my head, than following the crowd who take my ideas and run with them. Also didn't help that I moved for two years and shelved my build during that time.









Still modding the 932 however, but instead of putting the information out I am slowly working on it and will document all when it's finished instead. We had three doublewides happen from the time I mentioned and started work. Two 932s and a HAF X. They were pretty interesting and I'm happy to have helped push this at a time when Case Labs were a novelty and Danger Den were working on their wide body design. But really, I have learned from my mistakes...

...I think.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly I would have Nils send me a small portion of each to get a sense of what I want to do. He's pretty good about such things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno
> 
> Ceramique...
> v.
> 
> Whenever I use Ceramique (generally for washers and not for TIM) I'm always reminded by the texture and tackiness, of Jet Puffed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> stuff is a serious PITA to apply. It gets on everything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uhhhh, kinda looks like something else besides Marshmallow Creme, can be just as sticky though.
Click to expand...

If that's what you're ummm throwing... I think you need to get to a physician and pronto.









~Ceader


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> You have a day job?!


Doesnt everybody?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Doesnt everybody?


No.


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabri85*
> 
> my creation..not cool as yours but works


Your Video card man. its looks like to much heavy and carefully with that. I can see on image that its not fully horizontally and try to help motherboard for future pcie slot brake


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> Thought that I would post some pics of my build here. Very happy with how it turned out.


Great work, very nice bends!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question, two D5 varios on setting 3 shouldn't have problems with flow using a 360 and 480 hardware labs black ice nemesis gts rads correct?
> 
> I know they are a restrictive radiator and that's why I ask. Other than it would be the typical amount of 1 cpu 2 gpu blocks along with array of fittings.


It takes an awful lot to cause actual problems with flow. Pretty much all watercooling gear works just fine down to 2LPM and because restriction increases with the square of flow rate but also decreases in the same way, it doesn't take much to achieve that.
The D5, like most pumps, makes most of its pressure in the top half of its speed range so two pumps on setting 3 is actually less power than a single at full speed. Two GTS rads is not over the top though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> Thought that I would post some pics of my build here. Very happy with how it turned out.


Thats pretty. I would have made some different choices on the connections to shorten some tubing runs but other than that very nice.


----------



## Muldu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Thats pretty. I would have made some different choices on the connections to shorten some tubing runs but other than that very nice.


Thanks for the kind words. I'm always up for inputs, so please share your thoughts if you like.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, I'm still me. Never used Ceramique for chip cooling. My brother was given a tube of the stuff in the mid 90s and he used it for a couple applications but just tossed it and forgot it in a drawer. I inherited the stuff, but generally went for Shin Etsu products over Arctic Silver before he ever gave it to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I squashed the Triple 932 due to a couple people mating dual 932s based on what I had publicly intended to do. I'm more of a banging my drum to the tune of what is rattling around in my head, than following the crowd who take my ideas and run with them. Also didn't help that I moved for two years and shelved my build during that time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still modding the 932 however, but instead of putting the information out I am slowly working on it and will document all when it's finished instead. We had three doublewides happen from the time I mentioned and started work. Two 932s and a HAF X. They were pretty interesting and I'm happy to have helped push this at a time when Case Labs were a novelty and Danger Den were working on their wide body design. But really, I have learned from my mistakes...
> 
> ...I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that's what you're ummm throwing... I think you need to get to a physician and pronto.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceader


you mentioned you have a haf 932? I have a few of those laying around my house not being used and I'm currently trying to build one up to be a HTPC with the x99 or z170 chipset. I don't care about the size of the case as far as that goes, but want to shove a 360 rad up top and hopefully at 240 in the front if I remove the drive bays. I don't want to mod it a whole lot. Anyway I was just curious if you had any thoughts on as to whether I need to pull the top cover off with the power button or if it can go back on after the rad is mounted. Others have said that the back vent on the top part lets out enough air from the part of the rad covered buy it since it has vents in the back and they say they can noticeably feel air flow although I'm not quite sure I believe this. Anybody have any input on this matter? It would be greatly appreciated. I'm also a little worried about the size of the rad with the fans sticking down too far I know a push-pull configuration is probably pushing it with a 60 millimeter rad up top and 25 millimeter fans as I might bump into or push down on the top of the 4 pin cpu cable.


----------



## emsj86

will this be ok to use with bits power enhanced hardline fittings for he o rings. Or is it better to use soapy water.


----------



## electro2u

Silicone grease is fine but i would probably only bother with it if an oring isnt easily kept in place, lile when you need to put your weird squiggly graphics card oring back in.

If its a tight fit i would use pure water.


----------



## Gabri85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Your Video card man. its looks like to much heavy and carefully with that. I can see on image that its not fully horizontally and try to help motherboard for future pcie slot brake


i know. i put a column to support the heavy zotac


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question, two D5 varios on setting 3 shouldn't have problems with flow using a 360 and 480 hardware labs black ice nemesis gts rads correct?
> 
> I know they are a restrictive radiator and that's why I ask. Other than it would be the typical amount of 1 cpu 2 gpu blocks along with array of fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> It takes an awful lot to cause actual problems with flow. Pretty much all watercooling gear works just fine down to 2LPM and because restriction increases with the square of flow rate but also decreases in the same way, it doesn't take much to achieve that.
> The D5, like most pumps, makes most of its pressure in the top half of its speed range so two pumps on setting 3 is actually less power than a single at full speed. Two GTS rads is not over the top though.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> Thought that I would post some pics of my build here. Very happy with how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thats pretty. I would have made some different choices on the connections to shorten some tubing runs but other than that very nice.
Click to expand...

I'm not seeing a whole lot of excess, except for that Radiator Outlet to Radiator Inlet pipe. The top Rad could be rotated 180* but that would require two 90* fittings to connect both pipes. There is not much room at all between the the top Radiator and the Front Radiator.









I rather like it as it is now.









~Ceadder


----------



## tatmMRKIV

only thing I dont get is pump/res orientation. but its probably for a reason.

I'd think itd be better if rotated 90degrees counter clockwise


----------



## DarthBaggins

Redid the 90 run I had going from the gpu to mono, and still redoing the cable runs


----------



## mrteddy

Heres some in progress shots of a small project i did yesterday, thought it was unique as i havnt seen anyone put the pump/res at the bottom of the case like that (bottom right corner)

- just need to make the tubing runs a bit nicer, find some mesh for the front and a pascal GPU hehe





not sure why the photos uploaded in potato resolution but you get the point haha


----------



## Warri

Here is my ever first Custom Loop











You can't see all hoses, but it's all in the right place. Loop goes like : Reservoir > Pump > Front Radiator > GPU 2 > GPU 1 > CPU > Top Radiator > Reservoir.

Reservoir / Pump Combo in back of the Corsair Air 540. The Front Rad was a tight fit with the top fans mounted. I didn't go for looks with the fans. I don't plan any lighting inside my case so it doesn't bother me


----------



## funfordcobra

Man noctuas just clash with everything unless you are doing some kind of kakhi colored scheme..


----------



## Coolzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Man noctuas just clash with everything unless you are doing some kind of kakhi colored scheme..


I was thinking, maybe an actual espresso-machine-themed build, with dual loops, one with light brown (coffee with creamer) colored fluid and one with white (creamer) colored fluid? I know this has been done with chocolate before


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrteddy*
> 
> Heres some in progress shots of a small project i did yesterday, thought it was unique as i havnt seen anyone put the pump/res at the bottom of the case like that (bottom right corner)
> 
> - just need to make the tubing runs a bit nicer, find some mesh for the front and a pascal GPU hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure why the photos uploaded in potato resolution but you get the point haha


Yeah, I don't think I've ever seen anyone do something like that. The noc brown and the mb blue pairs nicely with the white tubing, I approve of the choice of colors.







I wouldn't wait for Pascal, its SUPPOSED to be q3/q4 of 2016, that's one hell of a wait for a computer barely in q1.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Man noctuas just clash with everything unless you are doing some kind of kakhi colored scheme..


Noctua has the industrial series in pure Black .


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Man noctuas just clash with everything unless you are doing some kind of kakhi colored scheme..


They look great in wood cases.

I like that they are odd looking, you know what brand fan some is using when you see that color. Besides, they work great so who cares if their ugly.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i think they are okay performance-wise but theres better for less now I am sure.

varders and etc

they really are god awful ugly only company that evenmakes components that could go with it is asus and its sabertoth lineup, in which case why do you need noctuas the damn thing isn't gonna OC enough to dump heat

but really. who cares if you can tell them vs varders vs gts just off that atrocious color. Id rather have a descent color..

but they are really expensive.


----------



## timerwin63

Considering you can get GTs from PPCs, DazMode, Amazon, etc. for ~$20, I see no reason to get Noctua fans at all. Maybe it's just preference, but I'd rather have GTs or Vardars over Noctuas any day of the week.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

that's what I'm sayin. noctuas were good when you couldnt get GTs ANYWHERE, and until EK released the varders. Now they have the industrial series which is probably okay, but Id like to see furios varder, and gentle typhoon Highspeed with pwm mod) up against a noctua industrial.

well noctua industrial is 24$(on sale) so thats what I spent on my modded AP30s. they might be a good buy but I'd need comparison graphs


----------



## iCrap

Are the vardars better than gt ap15s?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

maybe a little? http://thermalbench.com/2015/11/12/darkside-gentle-typhoon-1850-pwm-120mm-fan/3/

no idea about the high rpm models though


----------



## fast_fate

when considering fan performance comparisons the primary focus should be....
what is the air flow at a specific noise level
OR how loud is the fan when pushing X amount of air.
what the rpm is or PWM setting is great to know but they are a means to an end


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Yeah I couldn't find a graph with airflow through rad, just airflow, so I didn't want to say anything definitive.

on VSG's graph the varder goes lower at certain rpms. so it was kinda up for debate, on which of the 2 were better in my mind.


----------



## Kimir

It's Vardar, with A, not E.


----------



## fast_fate

VSG's data is good









"_Testing methodology

Testing was done with the fans mounted one at a time on a single Swiftech MCR120QP radiator......_"


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Are the vardars better than gt ap15s?


I'm curious about that. Don't have any varders to mess with, only AP-15s and eLoops. And the noisy Corsair SP120s.







Though I do got some old Sliverstone fans that sound like jet engines on take off.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah I reread it, it is through rad. http://imgur.com/bUbZdKN
they are kinda close in performance.. not sure which I'd opt for. at lower rpms varder seem a bit better, but its a wierd curve..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It's Vardar, with A, not E.


I don't care, report me... see if mods care..
its a fan.. the most insignificant part of any of my pc builds


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I'm curious about that. Don't have any varders to mess with, only AP-15s and eLoops. And the noisy Corsair SP120s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though I do got some old Sliverstone fans that sound like jet engines on take off.


Bet they're quieter than Deltas


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Bet they're quieter than Deltas


Lmao, o lord, Deltas. I use to have a small 30mm one smack on a Asus Sabertooth board (rigged on with orings and long bolts). Was funny has heck when it fire up.







Sound like I had a mini turbo jet taking off in the case.


----------



## Kimir

Lolz, seems like I offended you. lmao


----------



## funfordcobra

I use nothing but the 3000 rpm vardars and they are the best fans I've ever used. You can run them under the 40% pwm cyclic rate, you just need to use a controller that regulates rpm through voltage. I keep mine at 25% and I'm guessing its around 750rpm but at 3000 its damn near +10-15c over ambient during load.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I got some gentle typhoons ap-30s with pwm mod for oc and d1223c12b6ap-0a for regular stuff

the ap-30s do well at 30-40% for light work loads, but 50-60 is better for oc and I rarely ever use 100%.. just in cases when I forget to set rpm. they get pretty loud.. but at 30-40 they are good and they keep my 5960x cool. but I also have a gtx480nemesis rad..


----------



## Divey

After 24 hours of work I finally made the switch from 680's to 980 ti's. Kinda a lot of work draining a loop and adding new hardware but the performance is definitely worth it.









*680's*



*
980 Ti's*


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Besides, they work great so who cares if their ugly.


at best they are average in performance. wasdte of money for rads
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> its a fan.. the most insignificant part of any of my pc builds


in a water cooled build, fans are as impostant as any other bit of cooling
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I use nothing but the 3000 rpm vardars and they are the best fans I've ever used. You can run them under the 40% pwm cyclic rate, you just need to use a controller that regulates rpm through voltage.


stupid idea. you dont control pwm fans with voltage. if your mobo doesnt have and you cant afford to buy pwm control, you dont buy pwm fans.

something a lot of you arent realizing is that the vardars are pwm control fans and so are i think, all of the notua ippc fans.if your mobo cant do pwm control for your fans and you cant afford an aquero, buy normal non-pwm fans.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> all of the notua ippc fans.


Most are, they do however produce a 2000 RPM IP52 ippc variant in both 120 / 140mm guise as 3 pin.


----------



## kgtuning

Edit. Disregard


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Most are, they do however produce a 2000 RPM IP52 ippc variant in both 120 / 140mm guise as 3 pin.


hence the words preceding those
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> and so are *i think*, all of the noctua ippc fans.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hence the words preceding those


Was not meant as a slight. Just information and confirmation.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Edit. Disregard


not likely mate. Ek and bitspower use the machined part of the screw in different places (one is internal the other external)...


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Spent the weekend finally completing my HTPC build in the Lian-Li PC-O5S. Also my new X99 parts for main PC arrived so recut some of the tubing and removed a couple of fittings. Was a fun weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Main build
> 
> HTPC
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2692630/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2692631/width/350/height/700


What pump/res did you use?

I'm trying to figure out what to use in my Lian-Li PC-07s build


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> not likely mate. Ek and bitspower use the machined part of the screw in different places (one is internal the other external)...


I see that now... Damn. Not a big deal, I just had a thought but its not going to work. Just means I "need" two EK 250 res.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> What pump/res did you use?
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what to use in my Lian-Li PC-07s build


Pump = EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump.
Res = Bitspower DDC Mini water tank

and EK DDC housing which comes with rubber legs to decouple the thing.


----------



## pc-illiterate

@gree please use spoiler tags on all but a single picture please, thank you.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Pump = EK-DDC 3.2 PWM pump.
> Res = Bitspower DDC Mini water tank
> 
> and EK DDC housing which comes with rubber legs to decouple the thing.


Darn I wanted a 100ml res. I don't think my case is much bigger than yours tho

@pc-illiterate sorry I'm not sure what's the spoilers tag, I'm on my mobile


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Darn I wanted a 100ml res. I don't think my case is much bigger than yours tho
> 
> @pc-illiterate sorry I'm not sure what's the spoilers tag, I'm on my mobile


100 ml would work fine in the PC-07s. I actually brought the 140mm EK 140 Xres first which fitted, but once I got the stiff custom cables done and put in a raised acrylic lightbox it cut down the usable space. Separately the PC-07s is alot taller then the pc-05S, you would not have an issue I imagine with a 100ml in that location.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm happy w/ my Aqualis Pro (450mL)


----------



## RussianJ

Friend wanted more airflow through rads and installed some 5k rpm deltas on a rad in p/p with no controller. Could hear it from 400' away outside. I will post should my hearing ever return.

Yet it was the coldest I've seen a setup run over ambient.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, does anyone have any ideas for what I could use two GTX 480s with waterblocks for?


----------



## funfordcobra

Target practice


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Target practice


OUCH !!!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

frying eggs


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, does anyone have any ideas for what I could use two GTX 480s with waterblocks for?


Well, you either continue using them, or you get something newer. In which case you either try selling the 480s, or put them on the shelf, or throw away. Or frame them and hang them on the wall. :idea:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, does anyone have any ideas for what I could use two GTX 480s with waterblocks for?


If they are not bust then keep them,spare GPU's are always handy.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ*
> 
> Friend wanted more airflow through rads and installed some 5k rpm deltas on a rad in p/p with no controller. Could hear it from 400' away outside. I will post should my hearing ever return.
> 
> Yet it was the coldest I've seen a setup run over ambient.


Only 5k? Try the 15k fans some time.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol yeah my 120's were only up to 5k and they could move some air (rated @ 151cfm)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

151cfm? thats nothing(for that rpm) you gotta go for the 250cfm ones


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> 151cfm? thats nothing(for that rpm) you gotta go for the 250cfm ones


What fans are those?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Delta PFC1212DE
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Electronics-PFC1212DE-120x120x38mm-Cooling/dp/B004Z29YOM

I got some lying around but IIRC they need to be modded to work since they are reverse-pwm and I dont have a controller or anything for them so I havent used them. someday maybe though

they are kinda ridiculous actually. the AFB -SHE fans are supposedly really good lower speed and hmight have more static pressure. I havent bothered with them in so long, I forget...

but the fan blades are tiny on the PFC.. and the hub is freaking ginormous

but afb-she has fat fanblades...


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Delta PFC1212DE
> http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Electronics-PFC1212DE-120x120x38mm-Cooling/dp/B004Z29YOM
> 
> I got some lying around but IIRC they need to be modded to work since they are reverse-pwm and I dont have a controller or anything for them so I havent used them. someday maybe though


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Delta PFC1212DE
> http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Electronics-PFC1212DE-120x120x38mm-Cooling/dp/B004Z29YOM
> 
> I got some lying around but IIRC they need to be modded to work since they are reverse-pwm and I dont have a controller or anything for them so I havent used them. someday maybe though
> 
> they are kinda ridiculous actually. the AFB -SHE fans are supposedly really good lower speed and hmight have more static pressure. I havent bothered with them in so long, I forget...
> 
> but the fan blades are tiny on the PFC.. and the hub is freaking ginormous
> 
> but afb-she has fat fanblades...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Delta PFC1212DE
> http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Electronics-PFC1212DE-120x120x38mm-Cooling/dp/B004Z29YOM
> 
> I got some lying around but IIRC they need to be modded to work since they are reverse-pwm and I dont have a controller or anything for them so I havent used them. someday maybe though
> 
> they are kinda ridiculous actually. the AFB -SHE fans are supposedly really good lower speed and hmight have more static pressure. I havent bothered with them in so long, I forget...
> 
> but the fan blades are tiny on the PFC.. and the hub is freaking ginormous
> 
> but afb-she has fat fanblades...


Interesting.. i haven't seen those anywhere before.. hmm. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## emsj86

is there anything I should worry about if I use primochill advanced lrt tubing in the bottom of my rig and bitspower petg for the rest. I m upgrading a few things this weekend and will use pass through s for the bottom acrylic panel. My thought was to use soft tubing for below where it is not seen as its easier to work with and able to be moved around for easier cable management. Also your thoughts stick with blue pastel or go x1 blue and vinyl wrap the acrylic white. Im so bad with making decisions.


----------



## wermad

I've seen a few builds w/ part hard tube and part soft tube. Honestly, I would hit up primochill support and ask them. I know some of my primochill tube discolored externally when it made physical contact w/ rubber and other plastics. I would be hard to make both touch internally but you never know. I'm sure they've ran into this question before.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, does anyone have any ideas for what I could use two GTX 480s with waterblocks for?


Bench them!







Or alternatively, what B Neg said: backups are always handy.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> is there anything I should worry about if I use primochill advanced lrt tubing in the bottom of my rig and bitspower petg for the rest. I m upgrading a few things this weekend and will use pass through s for the bottom acrylic panel. My thought was to use soft tubing for below where it is not seen as its easier to work with and able to be moved around for easier cable management. Also your thoughts stick with blue pastel or go x1 blue and vinyl wrap the acrylic white. Im so bad with making decisions.


I believe alot of people do that so they can move tbeir rads around easier. From what i know havi g tbe soft with petg wont hurt or fog anything up.


----------



## emsj86

Thanks. Break down time. To switch to a all fittings and straight run build. So up in the air on what way to run it may keep it similar. One of my bits power mini valves broke when I turned it which is is sad seeing second time I used it. Made draining a project


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Bench them!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or alternatively, what B Neg said: backups are always handy.


Yes but they have waterblocks on them, I don't have the air coolers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If they are not bust then keep them,spare GPU's are always handy.


yes but I don't have the air coolers, just the blocks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Yes but they have waterblocks on them, I don't have the air coolers.
> yes but I don't have the air coolers, just the blocks.


But you are a watercooler....

I see no problem here.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thanks. Break down time. To switch to a all fittings and straight run build. So up in the air on what way to run it may keep it similar. One of my bits power mini valves broke when I turned it which is is sad seeing second time I used it. Made draining a project
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't think you're the first to have that happen.

Barrow has a valve that addresses this problem with an aluminium handle instead of plastic, not as pretty but probably won't break as easily either.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Barrow-Femle-to-Female-G1-4-Threads-Valve-Black/32295497658.html

Edit: There's a chrome one too:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Barrow-Femle-to-Female-G1-4-Threads-Valve-Silver/32296968881.html


----------



## emsj86

Things happen. But would be nice to see them make it out of a stronger material seeing as everything else they make and hs is high quality. Btw I bought the bits power crystal link 3 slot for the gpu. Now j thought they were pre cut to fit 3 slots (I bought the 3 slot) but all three our different sizes. Maybe someone can shed some light on this for me. I want to do a parrrell setup between my Gpus. Now it can easily cut my own but that kind of makes the point of buying these pointless.


----------



## rsvette12

Stay away from plastic - bought a 4 way female fitting bitspower plastic - leaked right of the bat got it stop leaking but replaced it with a xspc chrome one - lesson learned


----------



## emsj86

Sorry for posting so much today. Can anyone tell me the exact size tube I need for 3 slot spacing on gpu sli. I'm using bits power enhanced fittings. I think it's 34mm but I figured I double check to be sure. And to see if there is a tip or trick to lining them up.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sorry for posting so much today. Can anyone tell me the exact size tube I need for 3 slot spacing on gpu sli. I'm using bits power enhanced fittings. I think it's 34mm but I figured I double check to be sure. And to see if there is a tip or trick to lining them up.


that would depend on your motherboard and position of your cards on it... Just cut the regular tube on the size you need. No need to buy the pre-cut version of it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sorry for posting so much today. Can anyone tell me the exact size tube I need for 3 slot spacing on gpu sli. I'm using bits power enhanced fittings. I think it's 34mm but I figured I double check to be sure. And to see if there is a tip or trick to lining them up.


Like Gabe said, cut to length and install, My Trick to doing it is install the gpu tubes seperate from the motherboard, Once you have the gpu's connected by tube plug them into the pci lanes. So you don't break a pci Lane.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Thanks guys. Going to remove the Gpus and measure it than try it out. I'm sure once I do it, that it won't be that hard


----------



## Kranik

Here's my first completed water cooled build. It's a D-Frame Mini powder coated white. The green is actually going to be traded out for Mayhem's Blue Berry soon(tm). Figured you guys might like it. I'm happy with it so far!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Here's my first completed water cooled build. It's a D-Frame Mini powder coated white. The green is actually going to be traded out for Mayhem's Blue Berry soon(tm). Figured you guys might like it. I'm happy with it so far!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I do love a DFM.

Good job.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Here's my first completed water cooled build. It's a D-Frame Mini powder coated white. The green is actually going to be traded out for Mayhem's Blue Berry soon(tm). Figured you guys might like it. I'm happy with it so far!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


Looks amazing! Would love to see it with the Blue Berry!


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm trying to lower my temps for my two Titan X's. I have an RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. Would a 560 drop me several degrees, or would I need two more 560's? What's a good rad for that? Maybe am AX560? I'll be using EK vardar 140's.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm trying to lower my temps for my two Titan X's. I have an RX360, RX240, and a 560GTS. Would a 560 drop me several degrees, or would I need two more 560's? What's a good rad for that? Maybe am AX560? I'll be using EK vardar 140's.


Before you add more rads, make sure that heat dissipation is the problem to begin with. Do you have a temperature sensor in the loop? I ask because your coolant temps may well be close to ambient, but a bad mount on the GPU blocks would explain high GPU core temps. If your coolant temps are also high, then yeah having more radiators and fans may well help. I am just not sure that is the case here given what you already have.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Before you add more rads, make sure that heat dissipation is the problem to begin with. Do you have a temperature sensor in the loop? I ask because your coolant temps may well be close to ambient, but a bad mount on the GPU blocks would explain high GPU core temps. If your coolant temps are also high, then yeah having more radiators and fans may well help. I am just not sure that is the case here given what you already have.


Depending on the situation, water temps can reach a max of 35c maybe 36, 37c.

Does that sound about right to you?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Depending on the situation, water temps can reach a max of 35c maybe 36, 37c.
> 
> Does that sound about right to you?


VSG is correct. Your water temps however don't mean anything unless you give the ambient temp too. If you have a 360+240+560 on the gpu loop for two TitansX my bet is that you average delta (water temp - ambient temp) should be around 4-5 degrees C. But we need all that information to known (including card temps, water temps and ambient temps). In any case I doubt you need more rad space. That is plenty.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> VSG is correct. Your water temps however don't mean anything unless you give the ambient temp too. If you have a 360+240+560 on the gpu loop for two TitansX my bet is that you average delta (water temp - ambient temp) should be around 4-5 degrees C. But we need all that information to known (including card temps, water temps and ambient temps). In any case I doubt you need more rad space. That is plenty.


My ambient temps are normally 20-22c. Card temps normally reach 50-56c when in pushing1.237 or 1.274v. I run my vardars at 1500-1600 when the card temps reach 50c


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My ambient temps are normally 20-22c. Card temps normally reach 50-56c when in pushing1.237 or 1.274v. I run my vardars at 1500-1600 when the card temps reach 50c


something is off here. If you ambient is 20-22 and water reaches 37 that means a difference of almost 15 C between water and ambient. I have exactly the same dual cards with less radiator space (1x240 and 1x480 using GTs at 600-700 rpm up to 4 degrees delta and 1000 rpm above 4 C) and under game delta (ambient-water) never exceeds 4-5 C. Do you have a flow meter? Pumps are at what setting? it almost seems like a bent tube or blockage somewhere in the loop.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My ambient temps are normally 20-22c. Card temps normally reach 50-56c when in pushing1.237 or 1.274v. I run my vardars at 1500-1600 when the card temps reach 50c


Ok so that's ~15 ºC between your coolant and ambient which is a lot more than I would have expected. I don't suppose you know the flowrate in the loop? What are your fan speeds generally?

Edit:







Gabz


----------



## VSG

In other news..





and before you ask, no these aren't a result of a collaboration with Monsoon Cooling.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

why are they even making that are they making high end watercooling parts not?

yeah what is up with those temps though thats nuts


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> something is off here. If you ambient is 20-22 and water reaches 37 that means a difference of almost 15 C between water and ambient. I have exactly the same dual cards with less radiator space (1x240 and 1x480 using GTs at 600-700 rpm up to 4 degrees delta and 1000 rpm above 4 C) and under game delta (ambient-water) never exceeds 4-5 C. Do you have a flow meter? Pumps are at what setting? it almost seems like a bent tube or blockage somewhere in the loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ok so that's ~15 ºC between your coolant and ambient which is a lot more than I would have expected. I don't suppose you know the flowrate in the loop? What are your fan speeds generally?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gabz


This happens even when I turn my pump up to full speed. D5 running at 4800 RPM. I run my vardars at 1500-1700 when cards reach 50c

My CPU look doesn't reach more than 30c. So I don't know what the problem here is.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> In other news..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and before you ask, no these aren't a result of a collaboration with Monsoon Cooling.


Please tell me Monsoon has a way to be the ones to finally take Thermalfake's a** to court. This is just getting ridiculous....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> why are they even making that are they making high end watercooling parts not?
> 
> yeah what is up with those temps though thats nuts


Yes, they are selling custom loop parts now. Selling, not necessarily developing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Please tell me Monsoon has a way to be the ones to finally take Thermalfake's a** to court. This is just getting ridiculous....


They don't, you are talking about a company that is literally 2 moms and pops vs an international company. The product is anyway not something to patent or trademark.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> This happens even when I turn my pump up to full speed. D5 running at 4800 RPM. I run my vardars at 1500-1700 when cards reach 50c
> 
> My CPU look doesn't reach more than 30c. So I don't know what the problem here is.


Well your pump running at full speed may not mean much if there is a blockage somewhere. Your CPU is 30 ºC at idle I am guessing, which again doesn't mean anything here anyway since your coolant temps go higher than that with the GPUs and CPU under load.

Working solution: Break the loop down for a cleanup, and get in a flowmeter/indicator in there. It will be way cheaper than that pedestal + 2 560mm rads + 8-16 140mm fans you were thinking of buying.

Lazy man's solution: Maxwell GPUs don't care much about 50 ºC temps, running them cooler won't do anything for performance. The Titan X is a generally hot card as it is. Let it be.

Choose what you will


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> This happens even when I turn my pump up to full speed. D5 running at 4800 RPM. I run my vardars at 1500-1700 when cards reach 50c
> 
> My CPU look doesn't reach more than 30c. So I don't know what the problem here is.


Still running a single loop?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Still running a single loop?


No. I run a dual loop now.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> No. I run a dual loop now.


The CPU temps have nothing to do with this then, right?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> No. I run a dual loop now.


Oh okay.


----------



## DaClownie

So, I haven't done much with WC in a long time... but I'm putting together a new loop inside a Corsair Air 240... what do I use to rinse out radiators when they come in? I'm going to be using 2x EK PE 240mm radiators, and just want to get it all nice and clean and flushed prior to installing. I know they sell pre-rinse kits, but kind of expensive compared to home brew solutions.

Any insight? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So, I haven't done much with WC in a long time... but I'm putting together a new loop inside a Corsair Air 240... what do I use to rinse out radiators when they come in? I'm going to be using 2x EK PE 240mm radiators, and just want to get it all nice and clean and flushed prior to installing. I know they sell pre-rinse kits, but kind of expensive compared to home brew solutions.
> 
> Any insight? Thanks in advance!


Just pour hot water in and give it a good shake and drain. Repeat this until water coming out of the rad is clear with no debris in it.

PS- use a glove


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The CPU temps have nothing to do with this then, right?


Correct. its just my two titans. I was just saying that my CPU loop never reaches 30c. My GPU loop reaches 35c even when the fans are running at max speed (1800 RPM for the 140s and 2100 RPM for the 120s). Later I'm going to take it down and possible add a flow meter to it. What flow meter would you recommend? would adding a second pump benefit me at all? I see Gab saying he has his fans only running at 1000 RPM, and gets better temps even with less rads. I just don't understand it. its seriously driving me insane lol.

Also, my cards are 6c in difference. I lowered all the fans to 1000RPM, and I got 49c and 55c for the actual core temp. My room temp now is 20c and max water temps are 35c. 15c difference in temps. What the heck is going on?

Edit* I do have aD5 vario that a friends wants. He hasn't paid me since I told him I'd give it to him like 6 months ago. I may as well just say screw it and put it in my loop. Would a second pump benefit me at all?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So, I haven't done much with WC in a long time... but I'm putting together a new loop inside a Corsair Air 240... what do I use to rinse out radiators when they come in? I'm going to be using 2x EK PE 240mm radiators, and just want to get it all nice and clean and flushed prior to installing. I know they sell pre-rinse kits, but kind of expensive compared to home brew solutions.
> 
> Any insight? Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just pour hot water in and give it a good shake and drain. Repeat this until water coming out of the rad is clear with no debris in it.
> 
> PS- use a glove
Click to expand...

Hot distilled? doesn't tap water have it's own mixture of crap that I really wouldn't want to put into the radiator as a pre-rinse?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Hot distilled? doesn't tap water have it's own mixture of crap that I really wouldn't want to put into the radiator as a pre-rinse?


Just do a rinse or two with distilled after the tap water flushes. Any residue will be negligible.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Correct. its just my two titans. I was just saying that my CPU loop never reaches 30c. My GPU loop reaches 35c even when the fans are running at max speed (1800 RPM for the 140s and 2100 RPM for the 120s). Later I'm going to take it down and possible add a flow
> 
> Edit* I do have aD5 var
> io that a friends wants. He hasn't paid me since I told him I'd give it to him like 6 months ago. I may as well just say screw it and put it in my loop. Would a second pump benefit me at all


IT COULD


----------



## emsj86

Now what do you get with stock voltage and clocks on those Titan x s. I know before you said the temps weren't bad. Which leads me to believe you may be pumping to much voltage causing the high heat temps. Also out these water and air temps at the unit or just a general idea of what you think they our. A non scientific way to see if your flow is good is to drain the loop and re fill than see the flow you have going into the reservoir. (Could it be two much rad space causing slow flow and worse temps than if you just ran two rads?)


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So, I haven't done much with WC in a long time... but I'm putting together a new loop inside a Corsair Air 240... what do I use to rinse out radiators when they come in? I'm going to be using 2x EK PE 240mm radiators, and just want to get it all nice and clean and flushed prior to installing. I know they sell pre-rinse kits, but kind of expensive compared to home brew solutions.
> 
> Any insight? Thanks in advance!


Get the blitz part one from mayhems as a minimum. Just rinsing alone will not get everything out. Many issues people have down the road can be traced back to system prep.


----------



## emsj86

Flush with water for 30mins works well. If there is coolant from before same process or for the extreme blitz it


----------



## DaClownie

I'm just wanting to pre-rinse radiators before I install them, keep any sort of extra stuff from ruining blocks


----------



## num1son

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Get the blitz part one from mayhems as a minimum. Just rinsing alone will not get everything out. Many issues people have down the road can be traced back to system prep.


This or distilled and vinegar will do the trick to break stuff down and get it out. Just make sure to flush good with distilled after. I avoid tap water if I can, lot's a minerals in there I don't want staying in my loop.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So, I haven't done much with WC in a long time... but I'm putting together a new loop inside a Corsair Air 240... what do I use to rinse out radiators when they come in? I'm going to be using 2x EK PE 240mm radiators, and just want to get it all nice and clean and flushed prior to installing. I know they sell pre-rinse kits, but kind of expensive compared to home brew solutions.
> 
> Any insight? Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just pour hot water in and give it a good shake and drain. Repeat this until water coming out of the rad is clear with no debris in it.
> 
> PS- use a glove
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hot distilled? doesn't tap water have it's own mixture of crap that I really wouldn't want to put into the radiator as a pre-rinse?
Click to expand...

I always follow this when flushing my rads.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Hot distilled? doesn't tap water have it's own mixture of crap that I really wouldn't want to put into the radiator as a pre-rinse?


It turns out tap water is extremely useful for flushing and sediment in our drinking water is very easy to flush. I literally put my rads under the faucet and just let hot water flow into one port and out the other for about a half hour each. Then flush several times with distilled and you are good to go.


----------



## DarthBaggins

must have to do w/ the chlorine and fluoride in tap water lol


----------



## Dave6531

To bad my tap water is so hard with mineral deposits I couldn't imagine what it would do to my rads, have to clean my shower head each month cause it clogs up with deposits. I use filtered water and vinegar to start then rinse well with distilled seemed to work well.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> To bad my tap water is so hard with mineral deposits I couldn't imagine what it would do to my rads, have to clean my shower head each month cause it clogs up with deposits. I use filtered water and vinegar to start then rinse well with distilled seemed to work well.


Yea, our water needs to be filtered before it comes out of the shower head or it destroys our skin. I'm going to assume mine is a bit too rough for this use as well.

It's all good, distilled water is cheap cheap cheap


----------



## electro2u

My water is really hard too, I live in San Antonio, TX. I didn't realize it was harming my skin but it is absolutely possible. The thing is deposits are left due to evaporation; if you flush after with distilled water it flushes right out. Other things that get left in rads can be pretty stubborn though. If you watch the Mayhems Blitz videos he actually hooks his loop right up to the faucet and runs it for several hours and recommends this method as part of the process.


----------



## mr. biggums

I usually just boil some distilled mix a bit of vinegar in let it cool a tiny bit so I can handle it without burning myself poor in rad let it sit until cool and shake it, if I see nothing come out i'll repeat a couple more times and once done give it a rinse out with plain distilled and call it done.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I dunno about using hardwater from the city. there are things in alot of cities' water supplies that might not rinse out so easily.
I have uranium in my city's water supply


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I dunno about using hardwater from the city. there are things in alot of cities' water supplies that might not rinse out so easily.
> I have uranium in my city's water supply


Nuclear cooling... neat!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I used to joke that I OC'd my CPUs so high they put out radiation back in the AMD days..

little did I know...


----------



## taowulf

It is all good as long as you don't live in Flint MI.


----------



## wermad

I stumbled on this rig, might have missed it here or in the news:
Quote:


> HEX GEAR R40 Engineering station by metap0Pe
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/qf7Im
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: drool & wet pants may occur!




I spoiled about 2/3 of it as I know some one or peoples will b!tch about the amount of images.

This is my favorite one!
Quote:


>


----------



## DaClownie

Love the way the sleeving works in that wermad... daaaaaamn.


----------



## wermad

the fans (probably sponsored) and the purple ps/2 are the only "blemishes" I see. Would have been nice w/ some different fans and a cover for that ps/2. But, this is just nit-picking tbh...







. Its incredible work non-the-less


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> the fans (probably sponsored) and the purple ps/2 are the only "blemishes" I see. Would have been nice w/ some different fans and a cover for that ps/2. But, this is just nit-picking tbh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its incredible work non-the-less


Would it be sponsored for the fans if the logo was removed like that?


----------



## wermad

I think the vardars only have the sticker (ek) on the hub and not the blade.


----------



## kgtuning

Vardars only have the sticker on the hub.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Hans did a good job on that,thats p0pe too....not metap0pe,if you are looking for him on here.
Wonder where he got the res idea from..........









Best bit for me is the GPU cable tidies.

Something I found when looking for copper to start making blocks with.

http://www.daysteel.co.uk/antimicrobial-copper/

Dunno if it will work or even if my machine can machine it but definitely something for me to consider.


----------



## wermad

I quote word for word just to be on the safe side and avoid the stink-eye from those in know









Great stuff, I'll have to google p0pe to see what other work he does. I've probably have heard of him on bit-tech a few years back when I was researching acrylic modding (back when Syrillian was still among us common folk







). Some years, there's a flood of awesome work and its hard to keep up....its turning into SEMA











edit:

Interesting on that valve attached to the side of the bridge. I'm sure its rotary and meant for what it looks like (drain system). I would also point it upwards if I had to have it there. Though I would probably stealth a valve into the purrttttyyyy res if I had these skills.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I quote word for word just to be on the safe side and avoid the stink-eye from those in know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great stuff, I'll have to google p0pe to see what other work he does. I've probably have heard of him on bit-tech a few years back when I was researching acrylic modding (back when Syrillium was still among us common folk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Some years, there's a flood of awesome work and its hard to keep up....its turning into SEMA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> 
> Interesting on that valve attached to the side of the bridge. I'm sure its rotary and meant for what it looks like (drain system). I would also point it upwards if I had to have it there. Though I would probably stealth a valve into the purrttttyyyy res if I had these skills.


You are thinking of BETO,his first build I think



No stink eye here,you just wouldnt find his logs if you google search metapope,Hans is a good friend of mine so I have no problem diverting traffic to him at all.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are thinking of BETO,his first build I think
> 
> 
> 
> No stink eye here,you just wouldnt find his logs if you google search metapope,Hans is a good friend of mine so I have no problem diverting traffic to him at all.


There are so many freaking awesome builds out there, again, its hard to keep up. I've probably have forgotten about some of the MDPC site builds and the hours I spent there drooling over some builds and just absorbing some of the ideas/concepts.

Is there a site similar to MDPC that keeps up to date????

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Something I found when looking for copper to start making blocks with.
> 
> http://www.daysteel.co.uk/antimicrobial-copper/
> 
> Dunno if it will work or even if my machine can machine it but definitely something for me to consider.


Interesting


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> must have to do w/ the chlorine and fluoride in tap water lol


Good thing I have well water. Though, probably still not best to use it. Our well is a limestone well. But it some darn good water to drink.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Good thing I have well water. Though, probably still not best to use it. Our well is a limestone well. But it some darn good water to drink.


Well water has all kinds of stuff in it. Very far from pure. Not to say it's bad water. I grew up on well water too. It's just not "clean" since the minerals from the rocks dissolves into it. Good stuff for the body in some cases, not so much for water cooling loops.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well water is generally less hard than city water though AFAIK. I have never had a well


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> well water is generally less hard than city water though AFAIK. I have never had a well


No, This is incorrect. Grew up on well water. Tons of more stuff than city.

TCO


----------



## tatmMRKIV

forsure. I guess I got confused. its probably just that well water doesn't have chloride in it. So its safe to use on plants and etc vs unfiltered citywater.(plants hate salt buildup)


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> forsure. I guess I got confused. its probably just that well water doesn't have chloride in it. So its safe to use on plants and etc vs unfiltered citywater.(plants hate salt buildup)


Yea, you don't get the chlorine taste to it, but there's definitely much more stuff in it. I grew up on well water as well... while it was hard water (dried out my skin) it wasn't overly harsh and cause breakouts like my current city water.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I dunno. I seem to remember reading well water averaged in the 400-700ppm range and citywater can be ridiculous. like 1000-1500, or even 2000

But it will without a doubt vary from place to place and recently there seem to be quite a few issues with water pollution from mines and etc around the country. I watch discovery or hiustory channel moonshiners and then the Mick Dodge show... They talk about it every now and again... Come across examples of it...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> forsure. I guess I got confused. its probably just that well water doesn't have chloride in it. So its safe to use on plants and etc vs unfiltered citywater.(plants hate salt buildup)


Yep, I know my strawberry plants love it. Only thing with ours being limestone it is heavy in minerals. Reason I stick to using distilled to flush my radiators and blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I dunno. I seem to remember reading well water averaged in the 400-700ppm range and citywater can be ridiculous. like 1000-1500, or even 2000
> 
> But it will without a doubt vary from place to place and recently there seem to be quite a few issues with water pollution from mines and etc around the country. I watch discovery or hiustory channel moonshiners and then the Mick Dodge show... They talk about it every now and again... Come across examples of it...


Darn, then ours must be nice. I just measured ours, its only 95-97ppm.

Laughs, I just measured the distill I got. 40ppm.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do love a DFM.
> 
> Good job.


Thanks! LUMO inspired my purchase of the D-Frame Mini, loved what you did with yours.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Looks amazing! Would love to see it with the Blue Berry!


Me too! I've got some MDPC-X Aquamarine on the way to resleeve the cables to match


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> forsure. I guess I got confused. its probably just that well water doesn't have chloride in it. So its safe to use on plants and etc vs unfiltered citywater.(plants hate salt buildup)


You can drink it no doubt, it's where I got my source of Iron growing up.

Never Had to go to the gym









TCO


----------



## taowulf

Well water in one of the places I lived as kid used to give a red tint to my hair.

Fun times.


----------



## lowfat

After 22 months of being on 24/7 I decided it was time to disassemble the loop on my ESXi server. In that time it has probably seen less than 2 hours of down time. The coolant is a pastel w/ heavy amounts of green dye added. I mean like half a bottle of dye







.

When I first assembled it, it looked like this.


The nanoparticles or whatever have completely settled. Pics of the reservoir and tubing afterward draining the coolant.







And then the coolant. 100% clear minus the green dye. No trace of the pastel at all.


----------



## catbuster

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Here's my first completed water cooled build. It's a D-Frame Mini powder coated white. The green is actually going to be traded out for Mayhem's Blue Berry soon(tm). Figured you guys might like it. I'm happy with it so far!








very nice DFM


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> After 22 months of being on 24/7 I decided it was time to disassemble the loop on my ESXi server. In that time it has probably seen less than 2 hours of down time. The coolant is a pastel w/ heavy amounts of green dye added. I mean like half a bottle of dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> When I first assembled it, it looked like this.
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2696809/[/IMG]
> 
> The nanoparticles or whatever have completely settled. Pics of the reservoir and tubing afterward draining the coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then the coolant. 100% clear minus the green dye. No trace of the pastel at all.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


that is one of my favorites builds mate. Interesting. Have you open the block yet? I would like to see a pic of that if you do. Are you taking rads and blocks out and giving it a wash?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> that is one of my favorites builds mate. Interesting. Have you open the block yet? I would like to see a pic of that if you do. Are you taking rads and blocks out and giving it a wash?


I haven't yet. I'll open it tomorrow and take a look.

Not cleaning the rad yet as I am no longer using it. I consolidated both my servers in to a single air cooled rig. As taking this box down for maintenance brings down my entire network.


----------



## khemist

One or both?, i connected both to decide but i liked them together.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> In other news..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and before you ask, no these aren't a result of a collaboration with Monsoon Cooling.


If you're gonna pirate someone else's design at least give it your own spin. I rather like that 45*/ 90* mandrel.









I've been having this discussion in another thread and while I do not agree with the "nobody can patent a mandrel design" side of things, I have to give credit where it's due here. Because nobody thought of combining two mandrels into one. And to be fair Tt did add something that Monsoon never put in their kits with the tubing cutter. Not that I recommend them.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I quote word for word just to be on the safe side and avoid the stink-eye from those in know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great stuff, I'll have to google p0pe to see what other work he does. I've probably have heard of him on bit-tech a few years back when I was researching acrylic modding (back when Syrillian was still among us common folk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Some years, there's a flood of awesome work and its hard to keep up....its turning into SEMA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> 
> Interesting on that valve attached to the side of the bridge. I'm sure its rotary and meant for what it looks like (drain system). I would also point it upwards if I had to have it there. Though I would probably stealth a valve into the purrttttyyyy res if I had these skills.












~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Vey bad picture but cut the tuning for the sli parrrell. One of my cards dropped from a foot up (no damage so it seems fingers crossed) when putting it together. I think I like The Using over pre made sli bridge (wish I had plexus blocks now). I will be piping tonight. All blooms and rads drained and cleaned. I wasn't sold on the bits power fittings over the primo chill I had (meaning I didn't think it would be a big difference) but they look so much better smaller and flush to the tubing than the bulk of the revolver s.


----------



## Trito

Hey guys.
I finished my 250D build around a month ago and now I plan to watercool my CPU. I have read quite a bit and am currently making a shopping list.
Few things I wanted to ask before I purchase anything:
- Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 XFlow is a really good fit for my needs. Any input on how good it actually is?
-I want to go with Monsoon fittings as they look great however I am a bit scared about quality. Any input?

Kind Regards,
Triton


----------



## emsj86

Figure a shot in the dark but anyone have a blue corsair sp120 ring I could have. I would pay for shipping of course ?


----------



## alltheGHz

Paint one!


----------



## emsj86

That's what I plan on doing. With the weather it won't happen for awhile (I don't have a garage). If it comes to it I'll just buy one from local micro center.


----------



## SteezyTN

Is it normal to have a 2c difference in water temps at different parts of the loop? My RX360 (Vardar 120ER push) is 2c lower than my RX240 (SP120 push pull)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is it normal to have a 2c difference in water temps at different parts of the loop? My RX360 (Vardar 120ER push) is 2c lower than my RX240 (SP120 push pull)


Comparing a 360 which cools more wattage to a 240 which cools less is a losing comparison.

2c is a pretty good result considering you have Push on the 360 and P/P on the 240, all things considered.









~Ceadder


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's what I plan on doing. With the weather it won't happen for awhile (I don't have a garage). If it comes to it I'll just buy one from local micro center.


I actually think I have the rings for my old retired SP120s. Shoot me a PM and I can send them out some time this week.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I finished my 250D build around a month ago and now I plan to watercool my CPU. I have read quite a bit and am currently making a shopping list.
> Few things I wanted to ask before I purchase anything:
> - Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 XFlow is a really good fit for my needs. Any input on how good it actually is?
> -I want to go with Monsoon fittings as they look great however I am a bit scared about quality. Any input?
> 
> Kind Regards,
> Triton


I'm using 2 of the 280 GTS XFlows. I really like them. They have a low fin density and work well with my slow fans in push/pull. They also have a lower flow resistance because they are single pass. I'm running the D5 at 3300RPM. At 550W I get a delta-t of just over 10C and my system is inaudibly quiet.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's what I plan on doing. With the weather it won't happen for awhile (I don't have a garage). If it comes to it I'll just buy one from local micro center.


i think i have some as well if necessary


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I finished my 250D build around a month ago and now I plan to watercool my CPU. I have read quite a bit and am currently making a shopping list.
> Few things I wanted to ask before I purchase anything:
> - Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 XFlow is a really good fit for my needs. Any input on how good it actually is?
> -I want to go with Monsoon fittings as they look great however I am a bit scared about quality. Any input?
> 
> Kind Regards,
> Triton


I am using a Black Ice Nemesis *Stealth* GTS 240 XFlow right now in my build. I like mine, but remember. This radiator is 30FPI. Which means you will have to get some really loud fans. You will have to have good fans to push the air through the tiny fins. Also, it is a single pass, and not a dual pass radiator. But, it is a good radiator. My idle temps are always about 29-33C, my gaming temps are about 51-55C, and my full load temps are 61C. You can check my parts list in my Fantomex sig rig. Although, I am not using the SP120's anymore. I am using a couple Vardars in PUSH only.

*edit* All Xflow radiators are single pass, high finned radiators. So expect this with any of the Xflows. I am using a Xflow, because like you, it fits my build needs and keeps me from running tubes across my build.


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Figure a shot in the dark but anyone have a blue corsair sp120 ring I could have. I would pay for shipping of course ?


I have a dozen extra SP120 rings in blue and white. PM your address.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I am using a Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 XFlow right now in my build. I like mine, but remember. This radiator is 30FPI. Which means you will have to get some really loud fans. You will have to have good fans to push the air through the tiny fins. Also, it is a single pass, and not a dual pass radiator. But, it is a good radiator. My idle temps are always about 29-33C, my gaming temps are about 51-55C, and my full load temps are 61C. You can check my parts list in my Fantomex sig rig. Although, I am not using the SP120's anymore. I am using a couple Vardars in PUSH only.
> 
> *edit* All Xflow radiators are single pass, high finned radiators. So expect this with any of the Xflows. I am using a Xflow, because like you, it fits my build needs and keeps me from running tubes across my build.


Actually the Nemesis GTS is low airflow optimized. It has thin fins (16 FPI) and tubes: http://www.hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=23&Itemid=128

You won't need high speed, loud fans with this anymore than any other radiator.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Actually the Nemesis GTS is low airflow optimized. It has thin fins (16 FPI) and tubes: http://www.hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=23&Itemid=128
> 
> You won't need high speed, loud fans with this anymore than any other radiator.


Ah yep. I am actually using one of the older STEALTH versions. The NEMESIS has been reoptimized I see.

Good catch Geggeg, I may actually pick up one of these newer Nemsis for myself. +rep


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> After 22 months of being on 24/7 I decided it was time to disassemble the loop on my ESXi server. In that time it has probably seen less than 2 hours of down time. The coolant is a pastel w/ heavy amounts of green dye added. I mean like half a bottle of dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> When I first assembled it, it looked like this.
> 
> The nanoparticles or whatever have completely settled. Pics of the reservoir and tubing afterward draining the coolant.
> 
> And then the coolant. 100% clear minus the green dye. No trace of the pastel at all.


I had the same experience when i took apart my loop, my PC was also on almost nonstop for a little over a year and a half. Also mayhems coolant. Imo that stuff is a total fail for long term use. My rads and blocks were full of little particles of junk


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I am using a Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 XFlow right now in my build. I like mine, but remember. This radiator is 30FPI. Which means you will have to get some really loud fans. You will have to have good fans to push the air through the tiny fins. Also, it is a single pass, and not a dual pass radiator. But, it is a good radiator. My idle temps are always about 29-33C, my gaming temps are about 51-55C, and my full load temps are 61C. You can check my parts list in my Fantomex sig rig. Although, I am not using the SP120's anymore. I am using a couple Vardars in PUSH only.
> 
> *edit* All Xflow radiators are single pass, high finned radiators. So expect this with any of the Xflows. I am using a Xflow, because like you, it fits my build needs and keeps me from running tubes across my build.


Yeah, the 30 FPI is nice though. Love my Black Ice GTS360 Stealth. I rock three eLoops in pull on it @ 1800RPM. Of course I got a huge Phyoba 200 in the front with a cooler master mega flow pushing air through that one. Have yet to see my GPUs when both going ever go over 43-45C on full load.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Ah yep. I am actually using one of the older STEALTH versions. The NEMESIS has been reoptimized I see.
> 
> Good catch Geggeg, I may actually pick up one of these newer Nemsis for myself. +rep


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, the 30 FPI is nice though. Love my Black Ice GTS360 Stealth. I rock three eLoops in pull on it @ 1800RPM. Of course I got a huge Phyoba 200 in the front with a cooler master mega flow pushing air through that one. Have yet to see my GPUs when both going ever go over 43-45C on full load.


there is no newer Nemesis. there was the old gt stealth (called a gts by some) because of being thin and now the nemesis gts with s still being for (ultra) stealth though you could argue for slim or silent because its definitely slimmer than a nemesis gtx and a lot quieter. yeah, the x is for extreme.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> there is no newer Nemesis. there was the old gt stealth (called a gts by some) because of being thin and now the nemesis gts with s still being for (ultra) stealth though you could argue for slim or silent because its definitely slimmer than a nemesis gtx and a lot quieter. yeah, the x is for extreme.


I don't have any of the Nemesis. Got the old Stealth model that thin and black gloss.

This model:



Should of nabbed a few more. They are such nice rads.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I don't have any of the Nemesis. Got the old Stealth model that thin and black gloss.


judging by jodyb's posts, the rads in jodyb's pc are also the old gt stealth rads. just trying to not be confused.
old rads, gt stealth - massive fpi needing high flow/high speed fans
new rads, nemesis gts - low fpi optimized for low speed fans


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> judging by jodyb's posts, the rads in jodyb's pc are also the old gt stealth rads. just trying to not be confused.
> old rads, gt stealth - massive fpi needing high flow/high speed fans
> new rads, nemesis gts - low fpi optimized for low speed fans


Correct sir. I have one of the old Stealths. I am going to pick up one of the newer Nemesis rads. It is still a low profile radiator with lower FPI than mine. I will finally be able to put my SP120 PWM's back in. If you remember, you were the one who mentioned this issue to me as well a few weeks back in the MCP50X thread. I got some Vardars, the noise is much less than the Corsair h100 fans (and cooler as well) I had laying the closet, but still much louder than my SP120 PWM's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I don't have any of the Nemesis. Got the old Stealth model that thin and black gloss.
> 
> This model:
> 
> 
> 
> Should of nabbed a few more. They are such nice rads.


That is what I have right now.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I love my nemesis gtx 360 and 480. especially for the way I use them. they could be scratched.. I can't tell! Doesn't look like they are and I have never had the 480 in a case its just on my desk on some foam . .. I bench though... tbh its not that loud to me... i got it down to 30% pwm on my beasts (gt ap30)


only issue is they are kinda big.
if I do a case build I am definitely going to get an L-series or 2 http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-l-series-360-xtreme-radiator.html
I didn't notice before but that indent in the side.. looks like a nice place for badging


----------



## Trito

This is a single example of why this forum is gold. You can find at least one person who uses the hardware in question and can easily discuss benefits and costs of it.







+1 for both
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I'm using 2 of the 280 GTS XFlows. I really like them. They have a low fin density and work well with my slow fans in push/pull. They also have a lower flow resistance because they are single pass. I'm running the D5 at 3300RPM. At 550W I get a delta-t of just over 10C and my system is inaudibly quiet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I am using a Black Ice Nemesis *Stealth* GTS 240 XFlow right now in my build. I like mine, but remember. This radiator is 30FPI. Which means you will have to get some really loud fans. You will have to have good fans to push the air through the tiny fins. Also, it is a single pass, and not a dual pass radiator. But, it is a good radiator. My idle temps are always about 29-33C, my gaming temps are about 51-55C, and my full load temps are 61C. You can check my parts list in my Fantomex sig rig. Although, I am not using the SP120's anymore. I am using a couple Vardars in PUSH only.
> 
> *edit* All Xflow radiators are single pass, high finned radiators. So expect this with any of the Xflows. I am using a Xflow, because like you, it fits my build needs and keeps me from running tubes across my build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Actually the Nemesis GTS is low airflow optimized. It has thin fins (16 FPI) and tubes: http://www.hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=23&Itemid=128
> 
> You won't need high speed, loud fans with this anymore than any other radiator.


The plan is to run SP120 (would like to get Gentle Typhoons but 19£ per fan is not worth it IMHO).
Other parts will include:
- D5 EK pump
-Supremacy EVO
-Still haven't decided whether to use Monsoon fittings or stick with EK
and Primochill tumbing (had to stick with flexible since I will be moving the rig quite a lot)

Actually my main problem right now is that when I was building the rig I bought a really cheap (7£) CPU cooler thinking it is going to be really bad but it's just running so well. Idle 32-35C, Aida64 65-68C, ambient 20-21C that it is hard to justify 400 eur expenses for cooling the CPU. Only reason why I am still gonna stick with it is because years ago when I was browsing this forum I couldn't afford something like that and promised myself I would build a loop one day


----------



## BrjSan

Hey guys, anybody have the yellow primoflex advanced lrt soft tubing with clear water.

Appriciate a photo . . . I wanted to see how much transparent it looks.

Peace


----------



## orbitalwalsh

something im working on, hybrid 970





parts ordered for second card. shall be cooled with a swiftech h240x with monsoon 16/10mm 90s and black/red chain gun compression, white tubing and blood red mayhem liquid


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> something im working on, hybrid 970
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> parts ordered for second card. shall be cooled with a swiftech h240x with monsoon 16/10mm 90s and black/red chain gun compression, white tubing and blood red mayhem liquid


That's pretty clever, looks good too.









But you're not planning to run the fan straight off a 12v molex are you?


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That's pretty clever, looks good too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you're not planning to run the fan straight off a 12v molex are you?


Ah completely forgot to mention that the cable sticking out is for 2x 5mm red LEDs to light up the fan casing








Fan is attached back to the fan header and will be ran at 40% as thats the sweet sounding spot on this god aweful loud card

just need to drill the in and outlet hole and tighten it all back up









i really should braid the led line but just to lazy


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> something im working on, hybrid 970
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> parts ordered for second card. shall be cooled with a swiftech h240x with monsoon 16/10mm 90s and black/red chain gun compression, white tubing and blood red mayhem liquid


!! Which block fits that? I got a 970 Turbo I want to put under water, but could not figure out which block could work with it.

!? You kept the shroud on it too? O hell, I want to do that to my Turbo now. That would go great in my Dad's rig I am working on.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> !! Which block fits that? I got a 970 Turbo I want to put under water, but could not figure out which block could work with it.
> 
> !? You kept the shroud on it too? O hell, I want to do that to my Turbo now. That would go great in my Dad's rig I am working on.


It the alphacool GPZ 970 M07 for the 970 Mini which is almost identical

see the the alphacool thread and you'll see myself and another using strap water blocks to the Turbo but with different visual looks

http://www.overclock.net/t/1564888/alphacool-gpx-owners-club-and-information-thread/110

indeed the shroud is kept, as above ^^^ you'll see it involves some hacking !


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> It the alphacool GPZ 970 M07 for the 970 Mini which is almost identical
> 
> see the the alphacool thread and you'll see myself and another using strap water blocks to the Turbo but with different visual looks
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1564888/alphacool-gpx-owners-club-and-information-thread/110
> 
> indeed the shroud is kept, as above ^^^ you'll see it involves some hacking !


Sweet, going to definitely watch this. Very nice idea.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Thanks, there are some issues with the GPU block and the heat sink not making contact but easy to fix

im half tempted to set one up watercooled next to the stock but think i'll just wait till both are done

Got a blog on the intel build to follow. next pic on here will be complete water build


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Thanks, there are some issues with the GPU block and the heat sink not making contact but easy to fix
> 
> im half tempted to set one up watercooled next to the stock but think i'll just wait till both are done
> 
> Got a blog on the intel build to follow. next pic on here will be complete water build


Yeah, noticed that while reading the posts. How hard is it to drill the holes? I got a dremel and the stand to set it up as a drill press.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, noticed that while reading the posts. How hard is it to drill the holes? I got a dremel and the stand to set it up as a drill press.


If you want to keep the shroud like i did, you have to hack the areas where the shroud mounting would go, in the case of the hole location, it is just easier to hack a large section like i did.
And its pretty thick alumin , i just used a hack saw which was far quicker then dremel cutting.

you'll also have to hack the dust ram on the fan shroud which contains an id sticker, kept mine and can put be bonded back on


----------



## VeritronX

10% off ppcs for all you lucky americans.

https://twitter.com/JayzTwoCents/status/694554152634966016


----------



## DaClownie

Damnit. JUST made a $700 order Sunday night LOL


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> 10% off ppcs for all you lucky americans.
> 
> https://twitter.com/JayzTwoCents/status/694554152634966016


hmm, very tempting

rep up


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> 10% off ppcs for all you lucky americans.
> 
> https://twitter.com/JayzTwoCents/status/694554152634966016
> 
> 
> 
> hmm, very tempting
> 
> rep up
Click to expand...

I just tried it and it doesn't seem to work yet... or there's a minimum order amount... my cart is under $50 this time around


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> 10% off ppcs for all you lucky americans.
> 
> https://twitter.com/JayzTwoCents/status/694554152634966016
> 
> 
> 
> hmm, very tempting
> 
> rep up
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just tried it and it doesn't seem to work yet... or there's a minimum order amount... my cart is under $50 this time around
Click to expand...

I had a sizable cart in there and took advantage of the discount. It worked perfectly (over USD100)


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I just tried it and it doesn't seem to work yet... or there's a minimum order amount... my cart is under $50 this time around


There is a 50 dollar minimum for all discount codes now.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

does it stack I might have to get a waterblock for my classy it was already on sale








I was gonna sell the gpu, though.


----------



## nyk20z3

Complete build pics in a few days.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> 10% off ppcs for all you lucky americans.
> 
> https://twitter.com/JayzTwoCents/status/694554152634966016


Ooo, nice I need to buy some water cooling goodies get some builds going and a few other ones finished.


----------



## emsj86

Leak check and flushing old dye out of the rads. It took longer but I like he fittings over bends now that I did it. There or a few things I would like to change tubing wise but here is where I am at.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im debating on whether to go all in and watercool the spindle....










I will be attempting my first CPU block soon.


----------



## Ceadderman

So jelly ATM bro.









~Ceadder


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im debating on whether to go all in and watercool the spindle....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be attempting my first CPU block soon.


Too cool!! I keep looking at the Shapeoko and other CNC routers, but I'm still daunted by the learning curve on the software side. I'm envious.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Too cool!! I keep looking at the Shapeoko and other CNC routers, but I'm still daunted by the learning curve on the software side. I'm envious.


Its not that hard, nothing to be intimidated by. Back in highschool we had to be able operate the CNC with g code, that was a different story.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Its not that hard, nothing to be intimidated by. Back in highschool we had to be able operate the CNC with g code, that was a different story.


g code and m code. now you import a cad file and it does everything else...


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm going to order a pump to add to my loop and since I'm doing that, im going to order and replace the thermal paste with some kyronaut. Would it be worth it to replace the VRAM and VRM thermal pads as well? What should I order for that? I'm using an EK acetal/nickel block, and the red backplates. Thanks


----------



## emsj86

Just added the pastel white. Need to let it bleed than too it off and add dye. A few things still need to be done but so far I am happy. Insyalled new Samsung ssd as well. Looking forward to getting back online


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> g code and m code. now you import a cad file and it does everything else...


If only it was as easy as that.....


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just added the pastel white. Need to let it bleed than too it off and add dye. A few things still need to be done but so far I am happy. Insyalled new Samsung ssd as well. Looking forward to getting back online


That looks great man!


----------



## saxovtsmike

The slow process on my way to get a full WC loop internally again.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> The slow process on my way to get a full WC loop internally again.


The Formula literally blend in with that case perfectly


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> g code and m code. now you import a cad file and it does everything else...
> 
> 
> 
> If only it was as easy as that.....
Click to expand...

We just bought a turret punch at work that runs off old g and m code. We bought a software called Radan that does exactly what pc-ill said. Takes a CAD file, auto-assigns tools to all the different parts, nests the parts as efficiently as possible, then generates the code for the machine. Granted this software was $12,000, but it makes life so much easier not having to write all the code by hand. There are cheaper alternatives to this software though.


----------



## wermad

is ppcs.com down? i'm trying to get an order in


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> is ppcs.com down? i'm trying to get an order in


Just checked. Its up, but I also did not try to place an order, just navigated to a couple product pages.


----------



## wermad

Tnx, just on it now. Back to normal


----------



## Jflisk

Just ordered a new Raystorm Pro intel water block from PPCS . I think I may have reassembled my old Raystorm back together wrong. I think the lines are running in the wrong direction from the inlet/outlet. But its holding water - Had a problem putting it back together the last time after cleaning it. My I7 - 4970K is getting 64C running Aida 64 stress test. Think the temp should be lower then that. Even at 4.4 GHZ In games its under 38C -Idle 30C. But the stress test is heating it up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> We just bought a turret punch at work that runs off old g and m code. We bought a software called Radan that does exactly what pc-ill said. Takes a CAD file, auto-assigns tools to all the different parts, nests the parts as efficiently as possible, then generates the code for the machine. Granted this software was $12,000, but it makes life so much easier not having to write all the code by hand. There are cheaper alternatives to this software though.


This is all very true for commercial machines running on commercial control systems,this board and machine does not feature in commercial CAM software,feeds and speeds are an unknown when you first get it,the only reason those wares work is because the machine/controller is well documented for the likes of Fanuc/Heidenhain/Bridgeport etc.

I am not a n00b to CNC,just this machine and I certainly dont write gcode by hand anymore (does anyone?),I use SW and HSMworks.

My point is that any CNC work is not 'plug and play' like what has been described.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is all very true for commercial machines running on commercial control systems,this board and machine does not feature in commercial CAM software,feeds and speeds are an unknown when you first get it,the only reason those wares work is because the machine/controller is well documented for the likes of Fanuc/Heidenhain/Bridgeport etc.
> 
> I am not a n00b to CNC,just this machine and I certainly dont write gcode by hand anymore (does anyone?),I use SW and HSMworks.
> 
> My point is that any CNC work is not 'plug and play' like what has been described.


Gotcha

This is my first hands on experience with any type of automated fabricating machinery, so I'm still learning how it all works. The contract house that we were using before getting out own machine did have a guy there whose sole job was to write all the code by hand. They tried selling us that code when we bought the machine and seemed completely unaware that there was software out there that writes it for you from a given file. This was not the first time they demonstrated their ignorance though, which is why they lost our contract.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Gotcha
> 
> This is my first hands on experience with any type of automated fabricating machinery, so I'm still learning how it all works. The contract house that we were using before getting out own machine did have a guy there whose sole job was to write all the code by hand. *They tried selling us that code when we bought the machine and seemed completely unaware that there was software out there that writes it for you from a given file.* This was not the first time they demonstrated their ignorance though, which is why they lost our contract.


I dont even...........


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm so amazed. Made an order consisting of an EK D5 top, Koolance FM18D flow meter, and some tubing and fittings, and my order was shipped just now (well, ready for shipping). That's the fastest they have ever packaged anything lol. It must be a good day, because I also saved 10%


----------



## wermad

I got my order in too. I waited for February as i knew ppcs.com was gonna do a holiday discount. Ordered some bitfenix extensions and some connector/plugs









Waiting patiently for DHL to deliver my plugs to finally (after over a month) finish this damn loop


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got my order in too. I waited for February as i knew ppcs.com was gonna do a holiday discount. Ordered some bitfenix extensions and some connector/plugs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting patiently for DHL to deliver my plugs to finally (after over a month) finish this damn loop


I wouldn't have known about the 10% off if it wasn't for OC.net. JayZ made a Twitter post I guess, and someone sent it here


----------



## Questors

Found this handy tube straightener quite accidentally while looking around the 'Net during a bout of insomnia last night. A hand held tubing straightener that doesn't cost an arm, a leg and a first born is a great thing. According to the site, they can make a tool in metric or Imperial, but each size requires a new tool.



The company is Kwix UK and they ship internationally.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Found this handy tube straightener quite accidentally while looking around the 'Net during a bout of insomnia last night. A hand held tubing straightener that doesn't cost an arm, a leg and a first born is a great thing. According to the site, they can make a tool in metric or Imperial, but each size requires a new tool.
> 
> 
> 
> The company is Kwix UK and they ship internationally.


I posted pics of mine ages ago,I can get you promo codes of anyone wants one.

They work really well, worth the money.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That is a sessi piece of equipment, still want to convert from acrylic to copper


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I posted pics of mine ages ago,I can get you promo codes of anyone wants one.
> 
> They work really well, worth the money.


Promo codes! Nice!

I had not seen one before finding this. I figured someone probably posted about it previously, but also thought it couldn't hurt for any n00bs like me.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I wouldn't have known about the 10% off if it wasn't for OC.net. JayZ made a Twitter post I guess, and someone sent it here


the ocn code still works ("ocn55"). for holidays they sometimes do these discounts. Who comes up with the codes? might some sort of agreement between them but it don't to me tbh. As long as I can use it, I'm good









My plugs finally showed up!


----------



## gree

Anybody knw the best place to order bitspower mod tops?

Im in the usa and the only play ive found with the S model in white is highflow.nl unfourtanetly it would cost me $104 to get it from them. My Mod Kit is white so id really like the top in white also. Performan pcs only carry it in black or clear ($52 from them)


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Anybody knw the best place to order bitspower mod tops?
> 
> Im in the usa and the only play ive found with the S model in white is highflow.nl unfourtanetly it would cost me $104 to get it from them. My Mod Kit is white so id really like the top in white also. Performan pcs only carry it in black or clear ($52 from them)


Is this what your looking for: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/bitspower_d5_pump_top_s_model_acetal_white/


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Is this what your looking for: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/bitspower_d5_pump_top_s_model_acetal_white/


Yes. Ive never heard of dazmode, are they in the US?

Also any reason its $86?
Highflow has it for $104usd including shipping from the netherlands
Performance pcs has the black model for $52

Thats a huge range, not really sure why the price varies so much


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Yes. Ive never heard of dazmode, are they in the US?
> 
> Also any reason its $86?
> Highflow has it for $104usd including shipping from the netherlands
> Performance pcs has the black model for $52
> 
> Thats a huge range, not really sure why the price varies so much


Daz is in Canada, so his listed prices are in CAD, which is notably weaker than the US dollar. The actual price for this is closer to $62.50. His shipping prices could kill you, though. The shipping for even a single Gentle Typhoon (or 6, doesn't really matter) is $20.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Daz is in Canada, so his listed prices are in CAD, which is notably weaker than the US dollar. The actual price for this is closer to $62.50. His shipping prices could kill you, though. The shipping for even a single Gentle Typhoon (or 6, doesn't really matter) is $20.


Thats only $8 more, performancepcs just charged me $12usd in shipping for the mod kit and Top Upgrade Kit . Ill jump on the daz price of $62.50usd


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Yes. Ive never heard of dazmode, are they in the US?
> 
> Also any reason its $86?
> Highflow has it for $104usd including shipping from the netherlands
> Performance pcs has the black model for $52
> 
> That's a huge range, not really sure why the price varies so much


I have used them allot to ship to the US. They have no store in the US.

It's actually 62. Since they are using the Canadian dollar as currency.

Shipping is going to be the money issue, Since. I can usually get something from them for about 16 dollars via UPS.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> We just bought a turret punch at work that runs off old g and m code. We bought a software called Radan that does exactly what pc-ill said. Takes a CAD file, auto-assigns tools to all the different parts, nests the parts as efficiently as possible, then generates the code for the machine. Granted this software was $12,000, but it makes life so much easier not having to write all the code by hand. There are cheaper alternatives to this software though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is all very true for commercial machines running on commercial control systems,this board and machine does not feature in commercial CAM software,feeds and speeds are an unknown when you first get it,the only reason those wares work is because the machine/controller is well documented for the likes of Fanuc/Heidenhain/Bridgeport etc.
> 
> I am not a n00b to CNC,just this machine and I certainly dont write gcode by hand anymore (does anyone?),I use SW and HSMworks.
> 
> My point is that any CNC work is not 'plug and play' like what has been described.


i only know about the cad importing from the cabinet shop i worked at. i was the cnc router man and all i had to do was change out dull or broken endmills.
custom cnc router. boss was always bragging he spent a 1/4 million on it and lifetime tech support. they used to bring customers in to watch the router run trying to sell more. i told my boss he shouldve charged them for tours. btw, lifetime tech support, cabinet shop shut down in 05...


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I have used them allot to ship to the US. They have no store in the US.
> 
> It's actually 62. Since they are using the Canadian dollar as currency.
> 
> Shipping is going to be the money issue, Since. I can usually get something from them for about 16 dollars via UPS.


A checkout ita

Ups standard $21.85
Canada post-usa-expedited us business $26.62

Which method do you you usually go with?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> A checkout ita
> 
> Ups standard $21.85
> Canada post-usa-expedited us business $26.62
> 
> Which method do you you usually go with?


I would just go with standard. You will get it sooner then expected usually.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I would just go with standard. You will get it sooner then expected usually.


Thank you guys for the help.

Got my gpu block off OC.net. Ordered the mod kit, Top Upgrade kit, and mod top today. Now im broke.

Next paycheck should be the rad, pump, and cpu block. Gonna have to wait for the tax refund for the tubing and fittings.


----------



## VSG

Here's a pic of the white XSPC Raystorm Pro:




























It's a white powdercoat over the standard black aluminum mounting bracket.










As with the black bracket, the two plexi pieces are removable as well but not easily. Here's a comparison between the first batch black bracket (with the Inlet port written out vs having an arrow) and the newer white bracket:


----------



## emsj86




----------



## b214cm

I installed the Raystorm Pro this past week in my rig. It really is a sweet piece of hardware.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Here's a pic of the white XSPC Raystorm Pro:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a white powdercoat over the standard black aluminum mounting bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As with the black bracket, the two plexi pieces are removable as well but not easily. Here's a comparison between the first batch black bracket (with the Inlet port written out vs having an arrow) and the newer white bracket:


Looks good







and more led bling


----------



## DarthBaggins

I like the "in" label more for some reason


----------



## VSG

The block itself has an "In" on the top, so it was a bit redundant for the bracket to have it as well even though it covers the block writing.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Here's a pic of the white XSPC Raystorm Pro:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a white powdercoat over the standard black aluminum mounting bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As with the black bracket, the two plexi pieces are removable as well but not easily. Here's a comparison between the first batch black bracket (with the Inlet port written out vs having an arrow) and the newer white bracket:


Holy crap thats smexy! As much as I like EK, I'm glad to finally see some good alternatives to EVO. I can definitely see some laser cut colored acrylic inserts replacing the clear ones.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ive always liked the looks of the Raystorm blocks, but they don't cool as well as the Kuplex Cryos I have, but would love to try the Pro and see how they've improved it. Also can say the BitsPower blocks cool nicely on 2011-v3


----------



## alltheGHz

So guys

I have a bunch of watercooling parts. Tubing, 480s with blocks, a couple of spare rads, and a ton of fittings. What can I do with the spare parts?

Sincerely,

an idiot with too much time on his hands


----------



## wermad

ebay

craiglist

help ocn community (with noble intentions) get 35 reps, sell here

evga.com need 40 posts to sell

hardforum (probably one of the best market in a forum), you need 100 posts (I've yet to reach this since I seldom use it)

techpowerup.com also has a market I think you need certain amount of posts. I rarely use this forum but I love their hardware site









Now, most of these sites don't prohibit you from contacting a member about their wanted ads. So this is another way you can get rid of your hardware. Just read the terms and conditions for each forum's market as they're all different for access/buy/sell. Ebay tends to sell pretty strong for water cooling parts but what kills it is the fees you end up paying at the end (plus shipping, packaging, and paypal....







). Craiglist is very sketchy. I've tried it for computer stuff, and it sucks. For other things like furniture, tools, fish tanks, clothes (actually, wife uses facebook trading), etc. that stuff sells. Its tempting since you hear of insane deals for expensive hardware. Usually, its probably a pissed off ex girlfriend







..

One bit of advise, try not to "seek" reps here as they do frown upon that. Just help if you can, check unresponded posts, or add to topic you know or have experience about. I had no idea about the rep requirements for the market and in my first year, I got enough to start selling here. Someone just casually said, selling it here and I had enough reps for it. Same thing happened at evga.com.

If you're desperate to get rid of it, ebay is your best option though its always a gamble as a seller (and dealing w/ a few crappy buyers). If you hold on to them, it probably will depreciate, though some items may still sell strong. Despite the age of Monsta rads, they still sell for a good Ben + for used ones (480mm).

Good luck and have fun here and it usually pays off sooner or later. Still, the market can be as complex as ebay, just keep that in mind







.

My









Btw, if you wanna do freebies, just check the rules for each forum on that. Some members can really benefit from hardware that some of us have no use and its just collecting dust.

Edit: on topic (crappy) pic



Rads are gonna be refurbished first, about of half of them need a bit of re-freshening. Maybe in gold and green ....


----------



## emsj86




----------



## wermad

Very nice


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*


Beautiful








May I ask where did you get those 90 degree EK fittings? They don't seem to have them in their online store.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I ask where did you get those 90 degree EK fittings? They don't seem to have them in their online store.


You can't find them in the online shop because they are EOL.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17834/ex-tub-1596/EK_CSQ_G14_Thread_90_Fitting_Adapter_-_Nickel_EK-CSQ_Adapter_90_G14_Nickel.html


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Ive always liked the looks of the Raystorm blocks, but they don't cool as well as the Kuplex Cryos I have, but would love to try the Pro and see how they've improved it. Also can say the BitsPower blocks cool nicely on 2011-v3


Looks like the Pro is performing right up there with the best, according to this review:
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/01/14/xspc-raystorm-pro-review/3/


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> You can't find them in the online shop because they are EOL.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17834/ex-tub-1596/EK_CSQ_G14_Thread_90_Fitting_Adapter_-_Nickel_EK-CSQ_Adapter_90_G14_Nickel.html


It's a shame they are the best looking 90 fittings I have seen. I wonder if I can still get them anywhere in UK/Europe.
Anyway +1 and thanks for the info.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> It's a shame they are the best looking 90 fittings I have seen. I wonder if I can still get them anywhere in UK/Europe.
> Anyway +1 and thanks for the info.


Monsoon makes similar looking ones, of course without the EK logo.

http://monsooncooling.com/rotary.php


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Monsoon makes similar looking ones, of course, without the EK logo.
> 
> http://monsooncooling.com/rotary.php


Yes and those are the ones I plan to use as I really like the style but EK ones look so much better









But thanks anyway.

E:
Never mind.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Looks like the Pro is performing right up there with the best, according to this review:
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/01/14/xspc-raystorm-pro-review/3/


NIce. You can trust Stren reviews. He does it in a scientific way and he understands replication, error and variance on trials.


----------



## Questors

Does anyone have experience with the Primochill rigid compression fittings for use with copper tubing?

As far as I can see, the Ghost and Revolver models have one sealing O-ring on the compression side, whereas others brands have 2 or 3. Sometimes simplicity is a gift, other times it is a curse.


----------



## Trito

Hey guys.
Ever since I saw @emsj86 build I really want to get my hands on two EK-CSQ 90 degree adapters either black or black nickel. Maybe anyone has two left. I am in Europe but would pay for shipping as well.
If not maybe anyone knows where I could get my hands on them?

Thanks


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the Primochill rigid compression fittings for use with copper tubing?
> 
> As far as I can see, the Ghost and Revolver models have one sealing O-ring on the compression side, whereas others brands have 2 or 3. Sometimes simplicity is a gift, other times it is a curse.


I used Revolvers on copper and they are great. Don't let the single o-ring deter you, the design really grips the tube. I didn't use anything but water to assemble, and you don't have to worry about cutting the o-ring when assembling since you can slide it over the tube prior to assembly. I've never had a single drip from any Revolvers even from the initial test.


----------



## nyk20z3




----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Hey guys.
> Ever since I saw @emsj86 build I really want to get my hands on two EK-CSQ 90 degree adapters either black or black nickel. Maybe anyone has two left. I am in Europe but would pay for shipping as well.
> If not maybe anyone knows where I could get my hands on them?
> 
> Thanks


Im probably going to regret this but TT sells a similiar fitting:

http://ttpremium.com/product/pacific-g14-90-degree-adapter-black/

Probaby why EK discontinued them.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Im probably going to regret this but TT sells a similiar fitting:
> 
> http://ttpremium.com/product/pacific-g14-90-degree-adapter-black/
> 
> Probaby why EK discontinued them.


Not following you. Why regret? (Because of Thermaltake?)

But thanks +1. If I don't find anyone selling EK ones I will go for this and somehow remote TT logo as this is better looking than monsoon ones.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Im probably going to regret this but TT sells a similiar fitting:
> 
> http://ttpremium.com/product/pacific-g14-90-degree-adapter-black/
> 
> Probaby why EK discontinued them.


No need to go in to the Thermalfakecopy products







There are still shops across Europe that have the CSQ in stock:

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-CSQ-Adapter-90-Degree-G14-Black_38111.html

http://www.aquapc.com/loja/produto.php?p=8906


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I used Revolvers on copper and they are great. Don't let the single o-ring deter you, the design really grips the tube. I didn't use anything but water to assemble, and you don't have to worry about cutting the o-ring when assembling since you can slide it over the tube prior to assembly. I've never had a single drip from any Revolvers even from the initial test.


That's a positive! Thank you.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No need to go in to the Thermalfakecopy products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are still shops across Europe that have the CSQ in stock:
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-CSQ-Adapter-90-Degree-G14-Black_38111.html
> 
> http://www.aquapc.com/loja/produto.php?p=8906


I would rather not as well








They show it as in stock but instead of "buy" button there is "This product is currently out of stock or EOL, please contact us for an ETA."
Sent them an email few h ago. Will see, maybe they still got few.

E:
Regarding AquaPC, their website seems extremely sketchy. Do you think they are safe to buy from?


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ebay
> 
> craiglist
> 
> help ocn community (with noble intentions) get 35 reps, sell here
> 
> evga.com need 40 posts to sell
> 
> hardforum (probably one of the best market in a forum), you need 100 posts (I've yet to reach this since I seldom use it)
> 
> techpowerup.com also has a market I think you need certain amount of posts. I rarely use this forum but I love their hardware site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, most of these sites don't prohibit you from contacting a member about their wanted ads. So this is another way you can get rid of your hardware. Just read the terms and conditions for each forum's market as they're all different for access/buy/sell. Ebay tends to sell pretty strong for water cooling parts but what kills it is the fees you end up paying at the end (plus shipping, packaging, and paypal....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Craiglist is very sketchy. I've tried it for computer stuff, and it sucks. For other things like furniture, tools, fish tanks, clothes (actually, wife uses facebook trading), etc. that stuff sells. Its tempting since you hear of insane deals for expensive hardware. Usually, its probably a pissed off ex girlfriend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> One bit of advise, try not to "seek" reps here as they do frown upon that. Just help if you can, check unresponded posts, or add to topic you know or have experience about. I had no idea about the rep requirements for the market and in my first year, I got enough to start selling here. Someone just casually said, selling it here and I had enough reps for it. Same thing happened at evga.com.
> 
> If you're desperate to get rid of it, ebay is your best option though its always a gamble as a seller (and dealing w/ a few crappy buyers). If you hold on to them, it probably will depreciate, though some items may still sell strong. Despite the age of Monsta rads, they still sell for a good Ben + for used ones (480mm).
> 
> Good luck and have fun here and it usually pays off sooner or later. Still, the market can be as complex as ebay, just keep that in mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, if you wanna do freebies, just check the rules for each forum on that. Some members can really benefit from hardware that some of us have no use and its just collecting dust.
> 
> Edit: on topic (crappy) pic
> 
> 
> 
> Rads are gonna be refurbished first, about of half of them need a bit of re-freshening. Maybe in gold and green ....


Lol you and super detailed responses

I"m not interested in selling my 480s, as they where a gift to me. I have a rough understanding of how the market works, thank you for clearing it up a bit, but I was looking for a project to to. I mean, a mining rig would not benifit at all from these cards, I already have a system, etc. Right now they are just sitting on my shelf, I don't really want them to go to waste.

Yeah I've had a mix of experiences with ebay, craigslist, etc. I totally scored once and got 4 750tis for ~$200, they worked just fine. The dude I bought them from had a mining rig for about a month and didn't use it anymore, and when we met he though what I was doing for my age was pretty cool so he threw in an extra card for free.

On the other spectrum I've had sellers not respond to my inquiries, requests , etc. I guess it's just miss or hit, really.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I"m not interested in selling my 480s, as they where a gift to me. I have a rough understanding of how the market works, thank you for clearing it up a bit, but I was looking for a project to to. I mean, a mining rig would not benifit at all from these cards, I already have a system, etc. Right now they are just sitting on my shelf, I don't really want them to go to waste.


youll learn that just because something was a gift doesnt mean you have to hang onto it until you die. a gift is only something you dont have to buy yourself.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> youll learn that just because something was a gift doesnt mean you have to hang onto it until you die. a gift is only something you dont have to buy yourself.


yes that's a good point, however, these could be potentially useful to me. Not only are they fully functional but they have water blocks. Plus, these where given to me from a super cool guy, goes by the name of James, he won a NV mod competition a few years ago, and hearing that I was getting into modding and messing with computers he gifted me them. He'res his build and log



http://www.nvidia.com/content/nvision2008/case_mod.html

So, I want to put these to use instead of just giving them away.


----------



## ThornTwist

Love the blue and chartreuse


----------



## Gabrielzm

PPC codes:

Spend $50 get 7% off: "HEART16-7"
Spend $250 get 8% off: "HEART16-8"
Spend $500 get 10% off: "HEART16-10"


----------



## wermad

The "Jayz10" code gives you 10% off minimum $50 order.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1589939/performance-pcs-com-valentines-day-discount-10-off

edit: just used it yesterday and placed an order with the discount covering almost all of the shipping cost.


----------



## tysonischarles

Sign me up


----------



## Ceadderman

That Pump to card run could be cleaned up some but your overall build is sweet.









~Ceadder


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That Pump to card run could be cleaned up some but your overall build is sweet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It was a steep learning curve but I ran out of PETG. I have more, So I'll definetly fix the not so good pieces on my 6 month clean! Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That Pump to card run could be cleaned up some but your overall build is sweet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a steep learning curve but I ran out of PETG. I have more, So I'll definetly fix the not so good pieces on my 6 month clean! Thanks
Click to expand...

Just a suggestion, but given the single plane design of that piece, you might invest in a couple pieces of MDF and use that tube to adjust for straightness for the replacement tube.

One piece is the former backing which can be almost any thickness and the other piece the same thickness as the tubing to keep from wrinkling the hot tubing. Line it all out using the tube being replaced and cut it with a jigsaw once you're satisfied with your angles.

If you have a commercially available jig set you don't even need a jigsaw to cut curves into the angles. Simply trace out the spots where your jig will sit in the form and bolt it into each spot.

I forget who did this here but it was a really neat idea that I figure could be passed along.









~Ceadder


----------



## snef

received the case last week

started by a color test to be sure
I started by painting the ram to fit the theme

time for some pics


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just a suggestion, but given the single plane design of that piece, you might invest in a couple pieces of MDF and use that tube to adjust for straightness for the replacement tube.
> 
> One piece is the former backing which can be almost any thickness and the other piece the same thickness as the tubing to keep from wrinkling the hot tubing. Line it all out using the tube being replaced and cut it with a jigsaw once you're satisfied with your angles.
> 
> If you have a commercially available jig set you don't even need a jigsaw to cut curves into the angles. Simply trace out the spots where your jig will sit in the form and bolt it into each spot.
> 
> I forget who did this here but it was a really neat idea that I figure could be passed along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


if you are talking about jigs for bending acrylic to perfect 90 deg angles by making a mdf jig its in my build log...a simple jig but more effective than any you can buy from a shop for keeping the iner and outer radius of the bends perfect radius and square..the making of the jig is in the log


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> if you are talking about jigs for bending acrylic to perfect 90 deg angles by making a mdf jig its in my build log...a simple jig but more effective than any you can buy from a shop for keeping the iner and outer radius of the bends perfect radius and square..the making of the jig is in the log


I shall take it into consideration for the second attempt when it happens


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just a suggestion, but given the single plane design of that piece, you might invest in a couple pieces of MDF and use that tube to adjust for straightness for the replacement tube.
> 
> One piece is the former backing which can be almost any thickness and the other piece the same thickness as the tubing to keep from wrinkling the hot tubing. Line it all out using the tube being replaced and cut it with a jigsaw once you're satisfied with your angles.
> 
> If you have a commercially available jig set you don't even need a jigsaw to cut curves into the angles. Simply trace out the spots where your jig will sit in the form and bolt it into each spot.
> 
> I forget who did this here but it was a really neat idea that I figure could be passed along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you are talking about jigs for bending acrylic to perfect 90 deg angles by making a mdf jig its in my build log...a simple jig but more effective than any you can buy from a shop for keeping the iner and outer radius of the bends perfect radius and square..the making of the jig is in the log
Click to expand...

Could you post a link for those of us on Potato phones.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Could you post a link for those of us on Potato phones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


http://www.overclock.net/t/1549197/liquid-acid-corsair-750d-uv-yellow-green-rgb-acrylic-build-log-bertovzki/60#post_23937748sorry having trouble on my phone too...but this is link to build log...its on second to last page near bottom...spoiler is "30 mm radius jig...hope that helps


----------



## Jetskyer

Not nearly as mouthwateringly sweet as most builds here but to be honest I'm just glad it's finished









When the leaktesting is done I can try to make a few better pictures, although my phone makes it pretty hard to do so..


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> received the case last week
> 
> started by a color test to be sure
> I started by painting the ram to fit the theme
> 
> time for some pics


Nice, what sleeving is dat?


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> received the case last week
> 
> started by a color test to be sure
> I started by painting the ram to fit the theme
> 
> time for some pics


Nice to see another Hex Gear case. You are off to a great start once again. Do you have a build log for it?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Nice, what sleeving is dat?


Thanks
to be honest I don't know, he sent me this one with the rest of hardware, a lighter blue, silver and white

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Nice to see another Hex Gear case. You are off to a great start once again. Do you have a build log for it?


Thanks

yep
http://www.overclock.net/t/1590337/wip-snef-tropical-voodoo#post_24867180


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> received the case last week
> 
> started by a color test to be sure
> I started by painting the ram to fit the theme
> 
> time for some pics


Those Dom Plats are the Nuts Snef









TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> 
> 
> Not nearly as mouthwateringly sweet as most builds here but to be honest I'm just glad it's finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the leaktesting is done I can try to make a few better pictures, although my phone makes it pretty hard to do so..


Oooohhhh....copper builds! I like em


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not nearly as mouthwateringly sweet as most builds here but to be honest I'm just glad it's finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the leaktesting is done I can try to make a few better pictures, although my phone makes it pretty hard to do so..


on the contrary, excellent and original work. I would like to see more pics and looking at your build log you modified even the rads?


----------



## Blackseep

Here is my soon to be finished H2Go build. Sorry for the potato quality pics.


----------



## shtqbe

I'll just leave this here


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> yes that's a good point, however, these could be potentially useful to me. Not only are they fully functional but they have water blocks. Plus, these where given to me from a super cool guy, goes by the name of James, he won a NV mod competition a few years ago, and hearing that I was getting into modding and messing with computers he gifted me them. He'res his build and log
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.nvidia.com/content/nvision2008/case_mod.html
> 
> So, I want to put these to use instead of just giving them away.


Old school Tagan Black Pearl.









I got a BNIB one that will be my next case mod.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Oooohhhh....copper builds! I like em


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> on the contrary, excellent and original work. I would like to see more pics and looking at your build log you modified even the rads?


Yea, sure did. Might not have been the smartest move but I'm pretty sure I'm the only one who pulled that off








Maybe I should have documented better but I'm pretty much terrible at that, when I start to work I forget to take pics.

Originally I had planned to make it all shiny, polish the copper and stuff, but probably due to that this is my first build ever (not just first watercooled) it happened to get a few scratches here and there so now I'm going for the 'rugged' look









Will post a few more pics in my log tomorrow, maybe if there's a good one that's worth sharing with the world even here


----------



## RpeeKooz

here is my finshed pc build for skylake...
Hardware
i5 6600k
evga Ftw
2x msi 970
16 gb g skill ram
120gb m2 120 gb ssd and 2 tb hdd
1000w fsp power supply

Watercooling
ek supremacy cpu block
ek monarch ram blocks
bitspower v2 970 gpu blocks
two 480 rads and a 240 rad
10 cooler master 120mm jetflo fans (white led)
1 corsair 140mm fan (white led)
2x ek 250 x3 res
4 x ek pastel white
3 x mayhems non stain blue dye
mayhems blitz
aqua computer aquaero 6xt
aqua computer flow meter
primochill arcylic tube(petg is ****)
primochill ghost fittings(black)
bitspower and ek 90 degree rotary fittings and extenders
bitspower valve x2
and various other fittings...
just need to tidy up the cables and im finished
here is the finished product


----------



## Jflisk

Just installed my new XSPC Raystorm Pro In my system . Took the temps down on my I7 - 4970K down by 10C (under AIDA64 Stress test) At 54C full tilt 1/2 hour run . Have to take My other Raystorm CPU block apart and put it back together properly(Re-orientate the jet plate to the in/out and leak test it) .Have to order and change my white leds out also. One of them is flashing like a lightning storm. Wating for the air bubbles to get out of the system probably have to refill the loop a little tomorrow for the air pockets .


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> here is my finshed pc build for skylake...
> Hardware
> i5 6600k
> evga Ftw
> 2x msi 970
> 16 gb g skill ram
> 120gb m2 120 gb ssd and 2 tb hdd
> 1000w fsp power supply
> 
> Watercooling
> ek supremacy cpu block
> ek monarch ram blocks
> bitspower v2 970 gpu blocks
> two 480 rads and a 240 rad
> 10 cooler master 120mm jetflo fans (white led)
> 1 corsair 140mm fan (white led)
> 2x ek 250 x3 res
> 4 x ek pastel white
> 3 x mayhems non stain blue dye
> mayhems blitz
> aqua computer aquaero 6xt
> aqua computer flow meter
> primochill arcylic tube(petg is ****)
> primochill ghost fittings(black)
> bitspower and ek 90 degree rotary fittings and extenders
> bitspower valve x2
> and various other fittings...
> just need to tidy up the cables and im finished
> here is the finished product


*lamborghini corsairventador*
















(this is 900D right?







)


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> *lamborghini corsairventador*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (this is 900D right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yeh 900d love the name


----------



## wiretap

Starting a new x99 build.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shtqbe*
> 
> I'll just leave this here


Killer PC..... If u don't mInd me asking where did u get your tubing at? I have debating doing metal tubing vs Petg and that looks great

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> Starting a new x99 build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love those tops on your Platinums.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

I've spent so much time and money on this build. Do it regret it? Not one bit







due to my problems with "high" GPU temps and high water temps, I've ordered a second pump for the GPU loop. I'm also going to fix the soft tubing on the CPU loop, and put some hard tubing in there instead


----------



## derickwm

New build guys!
Verktøy Cu


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnuSpRTej

https://imageshack.com/i/pn8S11EDj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnI21Sy7j

I never thought i would use an AIO cooler.

I went air cooling for a couple of weeks since i killed a 980ti with a leak.

I can't be doing with 80+ temps though so had to go water cooling again.

Shout out to Pexon!, get me that pcie cable bruh!.


----------



## Remizon

Deleted


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Old school Tagan Black Pearl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a BNIB one that will be my next case mod.


dang, where did you get it?!?!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> dang, where did you get it?!?!


Found it on eBay. Actually paid less for it than the one I bought back in 2008. Was in perfect shape minus the mesh window had a small dent. I'll be tossing that stuff anyways.


----------



## wermad

Saw a bnib abs canyon 695 a year ago. tempting but I had already purchased my tx by then









edit:

just a reminder for those that haven't seen this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *Code: Jayz10*
> 
> ****Order needs to be $50 or more (not including shipping). I just tested this on ppcs.com****
> 
> Last day is Feb. 14th:


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> here is my finshed pc build for skylake...
> Hardware
> i5 6600k
> evga Ftw
> 2x msi 970
> 16 gb g skill ram
> 120gb m2 120 gb ssd and 2 tb hdd
> 1000w fsp power supply
> 
> Watercooling
> ek supremacy cpu block
> ek monarch ram blocks
> bitspower v2 970 gpu blocks
> two 480 rads and a 240 rad
> 10 cooler master 120mm jetflo fans (white led)
> 1 corsair 140mm fan (white led)
> 2x ek 250 x3 res
> 4 x ek pastel white
> 3 x mayhems non stain blue dye
> mayhems blitz
> aqua computer aquaero 6xt
> aqua computer flow meter
> primochill arcylic tube(petg is ****)
> primochill ghost fittings(black)
> bitspower and ek 90 degree rotary fittings and extenders
> bitspower valve x2
> and various other fittings...
> just need to tidy up the cables and im finished
> here is the finished product






I really like this, well done!


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Cheeky post since the baby and wife are asleep, as well as the second block and fittings being delayed...
I went and test fitted the first card straight onto the H240X removing the CPU block,using its fittings and liquid.
When the little on wakes up I'll plug it in and give a quick stress test


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> I really like this, well done!


thanks took my time and i think i done a great job


----------



## shtqbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Killer PC..... If u don't mInd me asking where did u get your tubing at? I have debating doing metal tubing vs Petg and that looks great
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I bought that chromed copper from a local shop here in Finland, at the same time I borrowed pipe cutter and bender from there for a weekend.. I'll say that go for metal tubing







it just looks so much better than anything else


----------



## BrjSan

Noob question:

does the thread length make a difference (cause any leak or issues)??

Wana get the EK splitter , ... this guy, it says G 1/4" with 7.0 mm thread size
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-t-splitter-3f-g1-4-nickel

and most if not all M-M extenders, this guy, says G 1/4" with 4.0 mm thread size
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-20mm-m-m-g1-4-nickel

peace


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Noob question:
> 
> does the thread length make a difference (cause any leak or issues)??
> 
> Wana get the EK splitter , ... this guy, it says G 1/4" with 7.0 mm thread size
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-t-splitter-3f-g1-4-nickel
> 
> and most if not all M-M extenders, this guy, says G 1/4" with 4.0 mm thread size
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-20mm-m-m-g1-4-nickel
> 
> peace


No issues, the thread length on the splitter is just quite large to accommodate all types of fittings.


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> No issues, the thread length on the splitter is just quite large to accommodate all types of fittings.


Thanks for the help . . . ready to order









Peace


----------



## eucalyptus




----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*


It's beautiful... Drrooolllll. Amazing job.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Noob question:
> 
> does the thread length make a difference (cause any leak or issues)??
> 
> Wana get the EK splitter , ... this guy, it says G 1/4" with 7.0 mm thread size
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-t-splitter-3f-g1-4-nickel
> 
> and most if not all M-M extenders, this guy, says G 1/4" with 4.0 mm thread size
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-20mm-m-m-g1-4-nickel
> 
> peace


As long as it's air tight, it doesn't matter.

This is the splitter I use in my case:

Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-matt-black-t-block-with-triple-ig1-4.html#Details


----------



## gree

Is frozen still taking oreders? They appear to be the only place to have the block in the color i want in stock

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16244/ex-blc-1124/Bitspower_Summit_EF_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_White_Acetal_BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKWH.html


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Last i heard they are still shut down.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Is frozen still taking oreders? They appear to be the only place to have the block in the color i want in stock
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16244/ex-blc-1124/Bitspower_Summit_EF_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_White_Acetal_BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKWH.html


Right off their homepage:

Quote:


> Sorry, Site undergoing maintenance, no checkout button available. Please call in order between 11am-7pm EST, Thank You
> January 18, 2016
> 
> Thank you for choosing FrozenCPU and for the opportunity to bring you the best quality products in the business. We are now accepting all major credit cards. Call in/ or email orders and we will try our best to have your package on its way in the next 24 hours, email for orders please send to [email protected] Please provide your address and a call back number. Please have your part number listed and ready before calling. 1-877-243-8266 (Toll Free) or 585-218-0120 (Local) 585-218-0123 or 585-218-0124. Line might be busy due to high call volume. Again, thank you for your business and if you have any questions regarding previous orders please feel free to contact [email protected] Mark Friga Jr.


Looks like you could just call in an order. Their site won't work, though.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Right off their homepage:
> Looks like you could just call in an order. Their site won't work, though.


Hmm idk if PayPal would work over the phone. maybe I'll just wait for sidewinders to get more stock


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Hmm idk if PayPal would work over the phone. maybe I'll just wait for sidewinders to get more stock


Wouldn't hurt to try.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Is frozen still taking oreders? They appear to be the only place to have the block in the color i want in stock
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16244/ex-blc-1124/Bitspower_Summit_EF_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Intel_LGA_Series_-_White_Acetal_BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKWH.html


Their open via Phone or E-Mail. I would never ever order from them. Specially with all shady crap that has gone down over the years.

Just E-Mail bitspower shopping site and ask them. They will send you parts directly to you.


----------



## pc-illiterate

is all bitspower stuff overpriced compared to their competition? that block aint worth $80+. on top of that, its ugly as sin.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*


I love that rig, congratulations again! What coolant is that?


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Their open via Phone or E-Mail. I would never ever order from them. Specially with all shady crap that has gone down over the years.
> 
> Just E-Mail bitspower shopping site and ask them. They will send you parts directly to you.


Could you link me? I'm not sure which site

Could you link me?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> is all bitspower stuff overpriced compared to their competition? that block aint worth $80+. on top of that, its ugly as sin.


They block runs about the same as the other Ones. It comes in more "non ugly" models as well. I just like this one.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Could you link me? I'm not sure which site
> 
> Could you link me?
> They block runs about the same as the other Ones. It comes in more "non ugly" models as well. I just like this one.


Link: http://www.bitspower.com.tw


----------



## pc-illiterate

im saying better blocks cost less. it flows well but thats about it. its in the top worst 3 of 2012.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Link: http://www.bitspower.com.tw


Well I tried registering, still waiting for an email. Then I can finally email them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im saying better blocks cost less. it flows well but thats about it. its in the top worst 3 of 2012.


The worst 3 were abou 5C different from 1st place.
I'm sure there's cheaper ones, maybe even some that are easy to use but I'm going with a white Bitspower build. And the block matches the Bitspower gpu block and res/mod top I have


----------



## DarthBaggins

Check on PPC's they are listed at 74.99-79.99 ( a few at the $89-$99 mark) but w/ the OCN55 code should drop the price a tad. Also they do cool very well as they come with the mono-kit (floor tile).

http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-cpu/shopby/brand--bitspower/cpu-series--intel-115x-2011-1366-775/?limit=90

Also I bet things have changed w/ them since 2012


----------



## pc-illiterate

i'll just leave this here and im done. you wanna be a pretty pc . net kid, go ahead. performance is performance. doesnt matter if its good or bad. most people want the best for their dollar. would you pay $2500 for an hour with a hooker that looks like roseanne barr? whatever.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Well I tried registering, still waiting for an email. Then I can finally email them
> The worst 3 were abou 5C different from 1st place.
> I'm sure there's cheaper ones, maybe even some that are easy to use but I'm going with a white Bitspower build. And the block matches the Bitspower gpu block and res/mod top I have


Should gotten the E-Mail by now.

Here is the E-Mail address: [email protected]

if you don't want to use the sites contact system.


----------



## Jflisk

Anyone have experience with the Koolance flow sensors. I keep blowing thru them every year or so . I have it in horizontal position - So it should work and stay working.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Should gotten the E-Mail by now.
> 
> Here is the E-Mail address: [email protected]
> 
> if you don't want to use the sites contact system.


Thank you







sent them a direct email instead


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the Koolance flow sensors. I keep blowing thru them every year or so . I have it in horizontal position - So it should work and stay working.


Which koolance flow meter?


----------



## SteezyTN

I just ordered the Koolance FM18D with display. I should get it Thursday, so I'll install it once I get it.


----------



## wiretap




----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*


Did you anodize the dominator tops? looks good


----------



## wiretap

Yea. It turned out pretty good. In person it looks a little better than I could capture with my camera phone. It is hard to get the light right for the pictures. I'll have to have my brother bring over his DSLR camera to capture some better quality pics.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Which koolance flow meter?


INS-FM17N . Thanks


----------



## wermad

Guys, don't forget:

10% off orders over $50 at performance-pcs.com. code:

Jayz10

Good until valentine's day (14th).


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pbuI92Cgj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/p7DhSCpaj
> 
> 
> Got some of the Chromax bits, fans look a lot smarter.


I second that, but I just ordered the black ones. The yellow looks a bit out of place, even though it's a yellow & black build..


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divey*
> 
> After 24 hours of work I finally made the switch from 680's to 980 ti's. Kinda a lot of work draining a loop and adding new hardware but the performance is definitely worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *680's*
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 980 Ti's*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Switch 810 is still one of the best. Beautiful build & route...


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> It's beautiful... Drrooolllll. Amazing job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I love that rig, congratulations again! What coolant is that?


Thanks guys























It's Mayhem uv green coolant







almost 3 Liter water in the loops


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> INS-FM17N . Thanks


Someone else mentioned to me that the fm17n isn't very robust. The fm18 was a better choice. I actually just picked one up for my loop.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*


NICE!!!!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> I second that, but I just ordered the black ones. The yellow looks a bit out of place, even though it's a yellow & black build..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yellow is very different from the drab colors we are used to seeing from Noctua. I think the yellow looks fine, but then, what one wants in their build is truly an individual choice. Is it possible there is a "get used to the new color" period of adjustment involved?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Someone else mentioned to me that the fm17n isn't very robust. The fm18 was a better choice. I actually just picked one up for my loop.


For some reason my flow sensor is reading between 978 ad 3200 or there's still air bubbles running thru the loop (just refilled 2 days ago) or it starting to lose its read at times. Might have to go with the FM 18 this time around. Thanks


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Yellow is very different from the drab colors we are used to seeing from Noctua. I think the yellow looks fine, but then, what one wants in their build is truly an individual choice. Is it possible there is a "get used to the new color" period of adjustment involved?


Yellow & black is beautiful. Reason I chose it, I just think the fans would look better with the black chromax on them. Also, where some of the fans are in my build puts them front & center. Who knows, this weekend I will be putting the fluid in & hardlining it.

The two 140's are front & center...


----------



## funfordcobra

It looks billion times better than noctuas doodoo brown.


----------



## wermad

White monsta


----------



## funfordcobra

Made a res stand since I won't have room for the ek pump/res combo when my ek dual pumps get here. I'll be using a 250 instead of the 140 in the pic.

Love this multi lauered/colored 1/4 sign board. You can make anything with a dremel like these carved evga plates I did.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> White monsta




Rather striking similarities, don't you think?


----------



## wermad

i have another one







:



edit: fingers hurt...so much spraying


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> fingers hurt...so much spraying


rattle can? have you considered one of these?


----------



## wermad

Yeah, I already broke two so I didn't bother again. I just switch hands; lefty when doing first two to third quick coats and righty when doing the heavy final two-three coats. I've also skipped the inside of the panels of the CL since you won't see them







. Matte white is very forgiving, especially for novices like me. Though, its getting harder and harder to find them at my local stores (I've depleted the few cans they have). Matte black will be added too.

I got the chore of breaking down my finished loop to pull the rads and panels. I'm probably half way....


----------



## snef

color test

witch color you think I choose to represent the color of a Tropical sea?





and made some little things on Waterblock


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've spent so much time and money on this build. Do it regret it? Not one bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> due to my problems with "high" GPU temps and high water temps, I've ordered a second pump for the GPU loop. I'm also going to fix the soft tubing on the CPU loop, and put some hard tubing in there instead


Problems again Steez? What's up now? I would have thought the move to the bigger case would have solved your woes for good.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Problems again Steez? What's up now? I would have thought the move to the bigger case would have solved your woes for good.


Well I'm just getting high water temps. Sometimes I can reach 38c. I did lower my temps overall though from moving into the caselabs. I would reach 63c on my Titans, and like 44c water temps.

However, I think my biggest issue was the thermal paste. I orders some kyronaut, and this time I'll use the pea method.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well I'm just getting high water temps. Sometimes I can reach 38c. I did lower my temps overall though from moving into the caselabs. I would reach 63c on my Titans, and like 44c water temps.
> 
> However, I think my biggest issue was the thermal paste. I orders some kyronaut, and this time I'll use the pea method.


38C does not seem like high water temps at all.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 38C does not seem like high water temps at all.


It does when you have an insane amount of rads. And when your delta is 15c +


----------



## rodaduck

hello water coolers. question here im getting ready to hook up my pumps , this is a duel loop , basically cpu/ram and gpu in sli , i know the i hook at the very least one pump to the cpu fan header, should i hook both? and if so is it done with a splitter? something else i thought of is that the cpu regulates the fan speed or pump speed , but gpu,s also do the same ? has anyone ever tried hooking a pump to a gpu and let it control the speed? maybe a stupid question but seems plausible .. would be grateful on the best way to hook up a duel loop


----------



## wiretap




----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great, have you considered making a build log?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> color test
> 
> witch color you think I choose to represent the color of a Tropical sea?


middle color snef
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> hello water coolers. question here im getting ready to hook up my pumps , this is a duel loop , basically cpu/ram and gpu in sli , i know the i hook at the very least one pump to the cpu fan header, should i hook both? and if so is it done with a splitter? something else i thought of is that the cpu regulates the fan speed or pump speed , but gpu,s also do the same ? has anyone ever tried hooking a pump to a gpu and let it control the speed? maybe a stupid question but seems plausible .. would be grateful on the best way to hook up a duel loop


which pumps are you using? you cant really hook 2 pumps up to the fan header. the 35x2 comes with a pwm splitter but thats it that i know of. so, which pumps and what are you planning to do?

but the best way to hook up a dual loop using pwm pumps is basing off water temps. all pwm pumps and fans should be based on water temps.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> color test
> 
> witch color you think I choose to represent the color of a Tropical sea?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think the middle one is closest.


----------



## paskowitz

Quick question... not really worth starting a thread for...

I want to set up a drain and fill port off T-fitting. It would go like this: *H240-X* -> (*T-Fitting* end 1 | T-fitting end 2 -> tubing -> fill/drain port | T-fitting end 3) -> *the rest of my loop*.

Would this setup (ommitting a drain valve and the start of the T-fitting) negatively impact my flow rate in any significant way?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick question... not really worth starting a thread for...
> 
> I want to set up a drain and fill port off T-fitting. It would go like this: *H240-X* -> (*T-Fitting* end 1 | T-fitting end 2 -> tubing -> fill/drain port | T-fitting end 3) -> *the rest of my loop*.
> 
> Would this setup (ommitting a drain valve and the start of the T-fitting) negatively impact my flow rate in any significant way?


draw us a picture in paint. that explination is confusing.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> draw us a picture in paint. that explination is confusing.


A picture is worth a thousand words...


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*


Very nice colour







Build log?


----------



## wiretap

I have started on a build log.. not really sure if I'm going to post it or not. I was waiting for nVidia pascal, but I jumped the gun on the build because I got excited.







I'll probably make a thread with my build log when I get a little more spare time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> A picture is worth a thousand words...


It will have no impact on flow.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Yellow & black is beautiful. Reason I chose it, I just think the fans would look better with the black chromax on them. Also, where some of the fans are in my build puts them front & center. Who knows, this weekend I will be putting the fluid in & hardlining it.
> 
> The two 140's are front & center...


Looks great!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> White monsta


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> 
> 
> Rather striking similarities, don't you think?


Just like these guys! Can't tell 'em apart! Exact look-a-likes!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> color test
> 
> witch color you think I choose to represent the color of a Tropical sea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and made some little things on Waterblock


In my experience there is no one representative color for tropical waters. I have seen crystal clear with a slight blue tint for unbelievable depths, typical aqua blue (toward green), deep blue, typical blue deep water color and even sea water that is so clear, it looks like glass (more "whitish" than blue or green). I would say you have a good range to choose from and still have it right for somewhere in the world.





What does your mind's eye picture when you think about tropical waters? Viewing a variety of pictures may be of good use to find "just that color."


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> White monsta


Looking good. Next change up I think ill paint mine white too and maybe get a white motherboard (Asus mark)


----------



## orbitalwalsh

First test , GPU fan on auto and corsair SP fans at 500rpm http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160209_173621.jpg.html

Still running at an OC of +123 core , +450 men , +12mv

Just about to test monsoon 90s with 16/10mm chain gun on the second alpha block


----------



## jodybdesigns

Upgraded my loop. Got some nice chrome Barrow fittings, they are really nice. I went to order black and Jack at Pccoolings emailed me to let me know they only had 1 45 degree fitting left in stock after my purchase. Jack was really nice at Pccoolings and offered me chrome fittings + a discount + rush shipping, and I gladly accepted the mans offer. A+++ for Pccoolings. The compression fittings really clean up the loop compared to barbs. I am happy for a while.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## rodaduck

and the pumps are xspc d5 vario


----------



## Brulf

Hopefully these colors work out with mayhems pastel blue dye and the grey on the ek varders... wish the charcoal paracord was a little lighter


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> color test


Oooooooooh!!! Stealth rads! That looks just awesome!

Nice color choice btw


----------



## derickwm

Getting somewhere!


----------



## rodaduck

looks real good


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Getting somewhere!


That's what I'm talking about. Sick.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking sharp, but have you considered using thumbscrews for mounting yor MB instead? Makes mounting and removal of the MB less of a chore.

I got mine from PPCs and since they're painted/coated I've no worries.









~Ceadder


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looking sharp, but have you considered using thumbscrews for mounting yor MB instead? Makes mounting and removal of the MB less of a chore.
> 
> I got mine from PPCs and since they're painted/coated I've no worries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oooooooo. Good shot. I never thought of that. +rep


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting somewhere!


I just folded and bought an 07.....I feel the need to do one...


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting somewhere!
> 
> 
> 
> I just folded and bought an 07.....I feel the need to do one...
Click to expand...

Yeah!
A "B Neg 07!"
Subbed already!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I just folded and bought an 07.....I feel the need to do one...


Its a classic afterall, can't wait to see what you'll do with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

I need to find one o them for a *reasonable* price. Unmodded and low mileage preferably.









~Ceadder


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting somewhere!


For whatever reason, I am most looking forward to see how you route this portion... and of course the rest of the build.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting somewhere!
> 
> 
> 
> I just folded and bought an 07.....I feel the need to do one...
Click to expand...

10/10 sub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting somewhere!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For whatever reason, I am most looking forward to see how you route this portion... and of course the rest of the build.
Click to expand...

I'm not


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm not


Route the tube over the front of the bridge,up and over to the top port of the SSD........Gpu in/Gpu Out/up and over the bridge to the SSD/back down to the CPU over the front of the bridge . If you are lucky,the blocks will line up right.


----------



## Nephurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looking sharp, but have you considered using thumbscrews for mounting yor MB instead? Makes mounting and removal of the MB less of a chore.
> 
> I got mine from PPCs and since they're painted/coated I've no worries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


got a link? would make things so much easier .


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ I have these ones. They are 6-32 so you're fine for compatability. They do have purple ones too but their pic kinda leaves me cold on the intensity of color.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-shouldered-thumbscrews-anodized-aluminum-set-of-10-black.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Route the tube over the front of the bridge,up and over to the top port of the SSD........Gpu in/Gpu Out/up and over the bridge to the SSD/back down to the CPU over the front of the bridge . If you are lucky,the blocks will line up right.
Click to expand...

I was thinking similarly. End caps in the bottom part of the SSD block 90* fittings on the top. Route the GPU out to the back one and the SSD out on the front. Problem solved.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting somewhere!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For whatever reason, I am most looking forward to see how you route this portion... and of course the rest of the build.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ I have these ones. They are 6-32 so you're fine for compatability. They do have purple ones too but their pic kinda leaves me cold on the intensity of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-shouldered-thumbscrews-anodized-aluminum-set-of-10-black.html
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I'm not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Route the tube over the front of the bridge,up and over to the top port of the SSD........Gpu in/Gpu Out/up and over the bridge to the SSD/back down to the CPU over the front of the bridge . If you are lucky,the blocks will line up right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was thinking similarly. End caps in the bottom part of the SSD block 90* fittings on the top. Route the GPU out to the back one and the SSD out on the front. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Drill and tap the unthreaded end of the block, and it will open up a number of new options:



Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

That would be a no bueno for me, considering that is an acrylic bridge. I had no problems cutting into my Acetal bridge but Acrylic is just too unforgiving to alter it in that fashion.









Gotta have some clankers down under for that.









~Ceadder


----------



## gree

Hey i just my sleeved d5 pump from ppc and im trying to put my mod kit and i cant seem to fit both wires through the hole. Any advice?

Edit it's the heatshrink at the end of the sleeve, it scrunches up when i try to put it through the hole


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Hey i just my sleeved d5 pump from ppc and im trying to put my mod kit and i cant seem to fit both wires through the hole. Any advice?
> 
> Edit it's the heatshrink at the end of the sleeve, it scrunches up when i try to put it through the hole


Go sleeveless and you will have no problems.

If you apply shrink to the point where it squeezes the sleeving real tight to the cable and cut the shrink away, it should stay where it's at without bunching. then just continue using shrink at the other end if you wish to keep shrinking your cables.









~Ceadder


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go sleeveless and you will have no problems.
> 
> If you apply shrink to the point where it squeezes the sleeving real tight to the cable and cut the shrink away, it should stay where it's at without bunching. then just continue using shrink at the other end if you wish to keep shrinking your cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder




So cut the bottom half off?

Do I not need the heatshrink?




Welp the sleeve ripped now


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go sleeveless and you will have no problems.
> 
> If you apply shrink to the point where it squeezes the sleeving real tight to the cable and cut the shrink away, it should stay where it's at without bunching. then just continue using shrink at the other end if you wish to keep shrinking your cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So cut the bottom half off?
> 
> Do I not need the heatshrink?
Click to expand...

Bring the sleeving all the way down to the back of the pump. push your shrink down there too. heat the shrink up until you see the pattern in the sleeving. then cut only the shrink off. The shrink will have compressed the sleeving to the cable. It should remain in place if you've done it correctly. A small clamp in place to keep the sleeving stationary when you stretch it to the connector end will ensure this process. You can get these mini clamps from Home Depot Lowes or just about any hardware store for uber cheap if you don't have one.









Edit: Remove all the shrink. Not just one half or the other. you want that off to get the cover down without making a mess of things.









~Ceadder


----------



## snef

I generally remove the back cover of the pump, make the hole (cable pass-trough) little bit larger and start the sleeving inside the pump

the back is really easy to remove, only with fingers or screw driver


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I generally remove the back cover of the pump, make the hole (cable pass-trough) little bit larger and start the sleeving inside the pump
> 
> the back is really easy to remove, only with fingers or screw driver


That works too, but since he has a cover I chose to advise sleeving to the housing. That part will be covered anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## gree

Im leaving it as is for now, dont have the money to re-shrink wrap it atm (i charged all of this to my paypal credit). And i belive i have two days if anything goes wrong? Its from ppcs. My top should arrive friday from Daz


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> 
> 
> Im leaving it as is for now, dont have the money to re-shrink wrap it atm (i charged all of this to my paypal credit). And i belive i have two days if anything goes wrong? Its from ppcs. My top should arrive friday from Daz


At least apply some heat to that sleeving or the vibration from your pump will unravel it.









~Ceadder


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> At least apply some heat to that sleeving or the vibration from your pump will unravel it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Would i have to take the BP pump cover off? Or will heat not hurt it

Just heat and then i dont need the heatshrink at all?
Or i could use Electrical tape maybe

If you cnt tell im new at this haha sorry for having so many questions





Heated it with a blowdryer and added a ziptie lol

I dont have the top yet or the my tubes etc. So i dnt think ill be turning it on any time soon


----------



## Ceadderman

Certainly looks better.









~Ceadder


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> make the hole (cable pass-trough) little bit larger


This would have saved a lot of headache...


----------



## fast_fate

speaking of headaches, this one hurt my head


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Oooh, fisheye lens.


----------



## shremi

Hey guys I got a quick question ... I am going to build a new rig in the thermaltake core p5 and I need to upgrade to a 480mm rad I have been digging up and on the roundup here by vsg one of the best performer was the black ice Gtx 480 it also scaled well with different fan speeds.... I am planning on reusing most of my ap15s I do have a good amount to run them in push pull but I really want them to run at about 1000rpms ....

Is the Gtx 480 still a good performer because the roundup was done in 2014 so I might as well ask here ...

Thanks

Shremi


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> speaking of headaches, this one hurt my head


For a fat minute I was thinking that was a VR headset. Then My eyes adjusted to the pic.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Brulf




----------



## tysonischarles

God damn son! It's getting hot in here


----------



## fast_fate

Feel the pain my friend.
Sending it all your way after our (Perth) 85 year record of 5 days in a row over 40 °C


----------



## Brulf

I swear im going insane with this sleeving i have been sleeving 1 cable at a time so as to not mix up the pinout and been doing it in a color coded pattern... 1 vga cable set is different to the other and i cant figure out if i messed up something or if its just how it was manufactured


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*


What's the things that are holding the cables neatly called?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> speaking of headaches, this one hurt my head


It's about time those drugs start working










TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What's the things that are holding the cables neatly called?


Cable combs.


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What's the things that are holding the cables neatly called?


There E22 cable combs honestly not a huge fan gonna replace them with something else i think


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Hey guys I got a quick question ... I am going to build a new rig in the thermaltake core p5 and I need to upgrade to a 480mm rad I have been digging up and on the roundup here by vsg one of the best performer was the black ice Gtx 480 it also scaled well with different fan speeds.... I am planning on reusing most of my ap15s I do have a good amount to run them in push pull but I really want them to run at about 1000rpms ....
> 
> Is the Gtx 480 still a good performer because the roundup was done in 2014 so I might as well ask here ...
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Shremi


Nemesis GTX and yes, it's still one of the best rads you can buy. The EK Coolstream XE came out later and I have covered it on my website (can't link here) as has Extremerigs.net but you will see there's really not much between them.


----------



## DerComissar

http://thermalbench.com/2015/06/07/ek-coolstream-xe-480mm-radiator/


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/06/07/ek-coolstream-xe-480mm-radiator/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Feel the pain my friend.
> Sending it all your way after our (Perth) 85 year record of 5 days in a row over 40 °C


I will be in Perth in July 2017 for a Congress, at least that is the plan. I am familiar with high temps but I guess I need to save some money for the Coopers....


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nemesis GTX and yes, it's still one of the best rads you can buy. The EK Coolstream XE came out later and I have covered it on my website (can't link here) as has Extremerigs.net but you will see there's really not much between them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/06/07/ek-coolstream-xe-480mm-radiator/


Thanks for this i







read your review on the Ek rad and i think the Nemesis might be better suited for me since i plan on running my Ap15s @ around 1000-1200 rpm .... I would love to know if i go push pull since i have the fans a new rad comes into play since you only reviewed them un push configuration ....


----------



## Ithanul

Mmmm, 40C so about 104F. That consider a mild summer day here.







Usually a lovely 115+F depending how the weather wants to act. Its either burning and high humidity with no wind or thunderstorms are trying to knock the power out and flood the area.

Super easy to figure out which peeps are not native to the area. Most others can't stand the high heat and humidity that occurs during deep south Alabama Summers. Reason I love water cooling my rigs. Since it is almost impossible to keep temps low in the house without A/C trying to kill itself and eat a buttload of electricity. Usually have to endure it being 85-90F inside.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Thanks for this i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> read your review on the Ek rad and i think the Nemesis might be better suited for me since i plan on running my Ap15s @ around 1000-1200 rpm .... I would love to know if i go push pull since i have the fans a new rad comes into play since you only reviewed them un push configuration ....


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/14/hardwarelabs-nemesis-360-gtx-radiator-review/6/

in the extremerigs round up you can find both push and psh/pull data


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/14/hardwarelabs-nemesis-360-gtx-radiator-review/6/
> 
> in the extremerigs round up you can find both push and psh/pull data


Great read ! Thanks for the link









I really want the best performer since i am now using 1020mm of rad space and this case fits only a 480mm rad ... But its damn pretty case tho


----------



## SteezyTN

Can anyone give me advice on a dual loop for GPU and CPU, VS a single loop and multiple pumps

Basically, I have a total of 3 D5 pumps. Would I yield better temps with all 4 rads that I have (560, 480, 360, and 240) and my TItan X's in a single loop with my CPU? Or just leave my CPU to the 480 with one pump, and add the two pumps to the GPU loop?

I would assume I would have awesome flow with 3 pumps I'm a single loop, right?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone give me advice on a dual loop for GPU and CPU, VS a single loop and multiple pumps
> 
> Basically, I have a total of 3 D5 pumps. Would I yield better temps with all 4 rads that I have (560, 480, 360, and 240) and my TItan X's in a single loop with my CPU? Or just leave my CPU to the 480 with one pump, and add the two pumps to the GPU loop?
> 
> I would assume I would have awesome flow with 3 pumps I'm a single loop, right?


How about trying a single loop and comparing water temps? Just set it up temporary to test. My single loop runs <5c from amb to water but I also have 2X560's and a 420.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone give me advice on a dual loop for GPU and CPU, VS a single loop and multiple pumps
> 
> Basically, I have a total of 3 D5 pumps. Would I yield better temps with all 4 rads that I have (560, 480, 360, and 240) and my TItan X's in a single loop with my CPU? Or just leave my CPU to the 480 with one pump, and add the two pumps to the GPU loop?
> 
> I would assume I would have awesome flow with 3 pumps I'm a single loop, right?
> 
> 
> 
> How about trying a single loop and comparing water temps? Just set it up temporary to test. My single loop runs <5c from amb to water but I also have 2X560's and a 420.
Click to expand...

That flamethrower 420 is your biggest heater from what I can see. Dump it and get another 560.









~Ceadder


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone give me advice on a dual loop for GPU and CPU, VS a single loop and multiple pumps
> 
> Basically, I have a total of 3 D5 pumps. Would I yield better temps with all 4 rads that I have (560, 480, 360, and 240) and my TItan X's in a single loop with my CPU? Or just leave my CPU to the 480 with one pump, and add the two pumps to the GPU loop?
> 
> I would assume I would have awesome flow with 3 pumps I'm a single loop, right?


I would assume the best temps with a single loop due to the fact that all the cooling capacity is in one loop.

As far as I know, dual loops are primarily for aesthetics and don't offer any real performance gains. Though I could very well be wrong on that.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That flamethrower 420 is your biggest heater from what I can see. Dump it and get another 560.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


.... There is one on its way.. 3X560 should have enough cooling power. Lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That flamethrower 420 is your biggest heater from what I can see. Dump it and get another 560.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... There is one on its way.. 3X560 should have enough cooling power. Lol
Click to expand...











I thought you were listing off Team Greencards. I've just realized you were listing off your Radiators.









Still 3x560 would be better than 2x560 and a 420.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I will be in Perth in July 2017 for a Congress, at least that is the plan. I am familiar with high temps but I guess I need to save some money for the Coopers....


Hopefully you'll have an evening (or more) to spare so we can catch up while you're over here


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> I would assume the best temps with a single loop due to the fact that all the cooling capacity is in one loop.
> 
> As far as I know, dual loops are primarily for aesthetics and don't offer any real performance gains. Though I could very well be wrong on that.


Water only has so much capacity to take away heat. You might not get much out of a dual loop with a single GPU and CPU (not that it's stopping me in my build), but I'd be inclined to go dual if I were running more than one graphics card.


----------



## wiretap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looking sharp, but have you considered using thumbscrews for mounting yor MB instead? Makes mounting and removal of the MB less of a chore.
> 
> I got mine from PPCs and since they're painted/coated I've no worries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks. Yes, I have used thumb screws in the past, and on several of my computers I'm currently using. I always end up using a screwdriver even with thumbscrews because I usually can't fit my hand in the areas needed to loosen them. I figured I would change it up a little by using cap screws this time. I find it just as simple to un-mount and re-mount. I usually don't end up removing a motherboard unless there's a serious issue where I need to.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you were listing off Team Greencards. I've just realized you were listing off your Radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still 3x560 would be better than 2x560 and a 420.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ohhhh... Lol. It's all good. I should have been clearer.


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you were listing off Team Greencards. I've just realized you were listing off your Radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still 3x560 would be better than 2x560 and a 420.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


You are not alone ??


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Thanks for this i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> read your review on the Ek rad and i think the Nemesis might be better suited for me since i plan on running my Ap15s @ around 1000-1200 rpm .... I would love to know if i go push pull since i have the fans a new rad comes into play since you only reviewed them un push configuration ....


There will always be new products coming out, and actually this is one time where I can safely say yes, there is indeed a new rad coming out that will be more high airflow optimized (as opposed to just push-pull which can be for silence also). I had posted pics of an engineering sample in this thread long ago too. But I don't know when it is going to be released and what it will cost.


----------



## TrumpyAl

Do people light their resrervoirs? I haven't seen it done much and wasn't sure why, so I had a go last night.

Is it considered a tacky mod? I think it works ok.

http://imgur.com/8I1lhKw

http://imgur.com/FA9TJHD


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrumpyAl*
> 
> Do people light their resrervoirs? I haven't seen it done much and wasn't sure why, so I had a go last night.
> 
> Is it considered a tacky mod? I think it works ok.
> 
> http://imgur.com/8I1lhKw
> 
> http://imgur.com/FA9TJHD












Some reses come set up for it.

Can you explain where u taped a strip to? Inside the res?

I suppouse if ur strip is waterproof its okay.


----------



## Touge180SX

I'm assuming to the back of the res between the case with LED's against the res.


----------



## SteezyTN

I absolutely love this EK Revo. Fits nice and snug in my SMA8. That's a total of 3 pumps. Still can't decided if I should make it one single loop, or give two pumps to my GPU loop.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's a total of 3 pumps. Still can't decided if I should make it one single loop, or give two pumps to my GPU loop.


Do you actually require 3 pumps... i wouldn't have thought that there would be flow issues with your setup...??


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Do you actually require 3 pumps... i wouldn't have thought that there would be flow issues with your setup...??


I appeared to have flow issues as my GPU loop had those three rads and only one pump. Something was wrong because my water temps were very high (15+ delta) for the rads I have. I'm thinking about adding the three pumps for all my rads and adding my GPUs and CPU to the loop.


----------



## Costas

You probably need to measure the flow to see exactly how good/bad it actually is rather than just assuming your temps are poor due to not enough flow.

It may be another issue...?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> You probably need to measure the flow to see exactly how good/bad it actually is rather than just assuming your temps are poor due to not enough flow.
> 
> It may be another issue...?


What could be my issue then? I've asked around thousands of times. I ordered a flow meter as well, so I'm adding that. And I forgot to mention, that I didn't buy a pump. I had the pump from my previous build that a friend was going to buy. He took too long to pay (like 5 months or so), so I just decided to buy a top and see what would happen if I added it.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some reses come set up for it.
> 
> Can you explain where u taped a strip to? Inside the res?
> 
> I suppouse if ur strip is waterproof its okay.


They make LED plugs. I love the blue in mine. Really nice glow.


----------



## Costas

OK - that makes it more sensible then.

Yeh you can try another pump but realistically your build does not look all that restrictive for flow to be much of a concern - However until you measure the flow to confirm one way or another we can only guess.

Its rare that we see rigs with more than two pumps - Even some large relatively complex builds running 3 or more GPUs usually still get away with only 2 pumps.


----------



## Costas

deleted - Dupe post...!


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What could be my issue then? I've asked around thousands of times. I ordered a flow meter as well, so I'm adding that. And I forgot to mention, that I didn't buy a pump. I had the pump from my previous build that a friend was going to buy. He took too long to pay (like 5 months or so), so I just decided to buy a top and see what would happen if I added it.


So you added the other pump and temps are still high?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> So you added the other pump and temps are still high?


I've added the pump, but I haven't finished the loop. All I did was take out the tubing, and just install the pump. I still need to route the tubing before I can fill it. I'm going to test temps later next week. I'm too busy with school this week and next, so hopefully Wednesday or Thursday I can finish the tubing.


----------



## Fyrwulf

I received my Nemesis 360 GTXs today. So excite.


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've added the pump, but I haven't finished the loop. All I did was take out the tubing, and just install the pump. I still need to route the tubing before I can fill it. I'm going to test temps later next week. I'm too busy with school this week and next, so hopefully Wednesday or Thursday I can finish the tubing.


Nice, Looking forward too seeing how that works out for ya. I'm sure that was probably the problem, you have so much rad space and i guess that comes with a lot of restriction.


----------



## funfordcobra

I'm trying to hook up my dual ek pump setup but there is zero pressure even with just the pump. Does the pwm need to be in? I thought that it ran at 60% with no pwm signal.


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello guys

This is my new case Corsair 780T and im getting ready for water cooling. i already have almost every detail just w8ing for Radiators

I think to Buy RX360MM 2x radiators because of size . that size is fine for my case. can some one offer me better radiators in the same size plz?


----------



## torino

Hi guys, need some help here...

Im currently using mcp35x + xspc ddc acrylic res... the problem is the rotor of the pump stuck for a while after switched on..

But the rotor will rotate smoothly after a few minutes, in which pretty much disturbing for me..

Is the pump shows dead sign in this case? since i didnt shut down my pc for a few days to prevent the same issue happening again.

I did checked on other forum regarding this issue, some them stated that some bubbles in the loop (unseen) might cause the pressure of the flow to be unstable, thus preventing the rotor from rotates during initiation stage...

Kindly help me on this. Thanks..


----------



## wermad

Still a while to go:



Case about 95% assembled after painting:



To do list:

Put loop back

Wiring

Leak test

Game


----------



## TrumpyAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Some reses come set up for it.
> 
> Can you explain where u taped a strip to? Inside the res?
> 
> I suppouse if ur strip is waterproof its okay.


Not inside, it's taped to the back of the reservoir, with the fabric tape used to eliminate all leakage. I wish I'd tried it prior to switching to an opaque dye.


----------



## TrumpyAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> They make LED plugs. I love the blue in mine. Really nice glow.


I actually spotted these today when choosing new led's for my cards - but I wonder if it would be bright enough for a pastel dye?

Looks great with yours ??


----------



## eucalyptus

I do also have led lights in mine









My original XSPC 5mm leds died. Replaced them with 3mm white leds, 12V and 230 ohm resistor /per led, my led diodes keep dying... They work for a bit, then start binking/flashing and then dies.

This is only one side though, got the same on the other side*


And yes, the build ins't done because my Asrock X99 Itx motherboard died by itself lol and Asrock service is the slowest one I ever met


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> 
> 
> Im leaving it as is for now, dont have the money to re-shrink wrap it atm (i charged all of this to my paypal credit). And i belive i have two days if anything goes wrong? Its from ppcs. My top should arrive friday from Daz


Cut the sleeve material square, hold it between two fingers so it doesn't expand, slide it back slightly from the desired end, add a small drop of super glue, slide the sleeve back to where it should be and hold it for a couple seconds to allow the glue to set. Be careful you don't glue your finger to the sleeve. Not that I would know anything about that first hand.









If you did it correctly, the end of the sleeve material should be inside the dress-up kit and/or pump cover so the actual end of the sleeve is out of sight. The glue holds it in place keeping it from fraying and splitting.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> *Do you actually require 3 pumps*... i wouldn't have thought that there would be flow issues with your setup...??


I am with Costas 100% here. The Cost of Pumps and rads (Pumps are roughly 80-100$ a pop) and the cost of a 560 rad, I honestly have no idea)

To Combat water temps? The Main temp I concern myself with is what are the GPU temps? Anything under 40C should be excellent. Normal OP temps of a Gpu on air is roughly 70-80C. Running a card at 40c is optimal and cutting 50% heat out running it on water.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I appeared to have flow issues as my GPU loop had those three rads and only one pump. Something was wrong because my water temps were very high (15+ delta) for the rads I have. I'm thinking about adding the three pumps for all my rads and adding my GPUs and CPU to the loop.


I am just trying to fathom the reasoning behind all of this. Sinking more money to lower water temps? Couldn't you turn on the Air conditioning in the house for this? Doesn't the ambients in the house have an effect on liquid temps to begin with?

TCO


----------



## emsj86

I'm know it seems simple. But is t possible that the Xspc temp control being used just is not monitoring the temp correctly? Because the temp of the card is not so bad


----------



## kgtuning

Could someone recommend a temperature sensor and display that is stand alone. Looking to monitor water temperature without breaking out my calibrated digital thermometer. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Could someone recommend a temperature sensor and display that is stand alone. Looking to monitor water temperature without breaking out my calibrated digital thermometer. Thanks in advance.


Like the xspc temp sensor with lcd display?

http://www.xs-pc.com/temperature-sensors/


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Like the xspc temp sensor with lcd display?
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/temperature-sensors/


Exactly. Just wanted to make sure I grabbed a decent one.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Exactly. Just wanted to make sure I grabbed a decent one.


Never used the xspc unit. But from what I understand the lcd is kind of separate unit so you can combine with any other brand plug or in-line sensor just plugging it on the back of the lcd. But it should work as others since they are all kind the same temp sensor.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Never used the xspc unit. But from what I understand the lcd is kind of separate unit so you can combine with any other brand plug or in-line sensor just plugging it on the back of the lcd. But it should work as others since they are all kind the same temp sensor.


That's what I thought too. I'm just so indecisive about stuff I needed help deciding. Thanks.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Like the xspc temp sensor with lcd display?
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/temperature-sensors/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Exactly. Just wanted to make sure I grabbed a decent one.


Here is 2 pictures of my 2 XSPC led displays - both with original XSPC temp sensor too.

They are great, even though I burned them twice with 12V and it smelled and came smoke - they still work for some reason...







They are worth every penny, best bang of the buck of any products available









A thing to point out thought! Be carefule, be extremely careful if you chose to take the them out of the lcd case, the display is connected with a + and a - cable so thin that you can barely even see them to a small pcb board. The display always lose from the pcb and you have to solder it back.

And, you can't use it without the case. The backside, backmount of the case makes a pressur on the pcb and display which is the only way to make it work. Difficult to explain, but somehow the display won't show any numbers if isn't placed right, stacked on the pcb with a hard pressure. Ae, forget it, probably you won't bother if you don't mess with it







I just had to take them out because I painted them and soldered the power from 2 units to 1









they are great


----------



## wiretap

Nice. I love those displays too. I used them in my old case for inlet and outlet water temp from the water block.







Now I'm just using a Goverlay LCD which displays my H2O temp before it goes in the waterblock, plus a lot more other stuff. Well worth the $25.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am with Costas 100% here. The Cost of Pumps and rads (Pumps are roughly 80-100$ a pop) and the cost of a 560 rad, I honestly have no idea)
> 
> To Combat water temps? The Main temp I concern myself with is what are the GPU temps? Anything under 40C should be excellent. Normal OP temps of a Gpu on air is roughly 70-80C. Running a card at 40c is optimal and cutting 50% heat out running it on water.
> I am just trying to fathom the reasoning behind all of this. Sinking more money to lower water temps? Couldn't you turn on the Air conditioning in the house for this? Doesn't the ambients in the house have an effect on liquid temps to begin with?
> 
> TCO


I've said in multiple post that I already had the pump from previous build. I went to order a flow meter, and since shipping would be about the same if I ordered separately, I went ahead and bought a $44 dollar top. I'm perfectly fine with shelling out $44 (not including 10% off).

It's not that I keep spending money, it's the fact that I have a huge amount of rad space, and I'm getting higher delta temps. Something is wrong here, so that's why decided to see if the pump would do anything.

It just "upsets" me for spending nearly an additional $1000 to fill up my SMA8 (560, 480, 2 pump/res, etc) and see people in higher ambient temps, get like a 5-10c delta in water temps. It's very strange and obvious flow is most likely a matter, that I'm getting a 15c delta, AND GPU temps reach 55c during normal gaming at stock voltages


----------



## wiretap

EVGA 980 GTX Backplate - Purple


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@SteezyTN Why Haven't you purchased a flow meter then? Disreguard that statement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I went to order a flow meter, and since shipping would be about the same if I ordered separately, I went ahead and bought a $44 dollar top. I'm perfectly fine with shelling out $44 (not including 10% off).
> It's very strange and obvious flow is most likely a matter, that I'm getting a 15c delta, AND GPU temps reach 55c during normal gaming at stock voltages


So you ordered a flow meter, or did you just order the top?

TCO


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> EVGA 980 GTX Backplate - Purple


That purple backplate looks sweet as


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @SteezyTN Why Haven't you purchased a flow meter then? Disreguard that statement.
> So you ordered a flow meter, or did you just order the top?
> 
> TCO


I ordered the flow meter. In which I also ordered the top. If my flow was bad, I would have hated to spend more money on shipping, so I just ordered both. And if the second pump doesn't help, then oh well. It was only $44. But I think I'm going to use all three pumps in one loop. That's extra flow, and then I can also use my 480 for my GPU's. My CPU doesn't get too hot, so I can use the extra cooling capacity for the GPU's too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've said in multiple post that I already had the pump from previous build. I went to order a flow meter, and since shipping would be about the same if I ordered separately, I went ahead and bought a $44 dollar top. I'm perfectly fine with shelling out $44 (not including 10% off).
> 
> It's not that I keep spending money, it's the fact that I have a huge amount of rad space, and I'm getting higher delta temps. Something is wrong here, so that's why decided to see if the pump would do anything.
> 
> It just "upsets" me for spending nearly an additional $1000 to fill up my SMA8 (560, 480, 2 pump/res, etc) and see people in higher ambient temps, get like a 5-10c delta in water temps. It's very strange and obvious flow is most likely a matter, that I'm getting a 15c delta, AND GPU temps reach 55c during normal gaming at stock voltages


Its not a flow thing.

Look at how the rads are setup,move everything to intake on rads. Make sure the rads have good airflow exhausting as well as intake. Move to a single loop,you will get much better rad efficiency. Have the exhausting fans run slightly higher than the intaking fans to promote airflow in rad bays.

What fan speed do you run? Is that speed in the optimum point in the fans PQ curve?

Fans have a specific point where they are at their most efficient for their blade structure,the effects can be quite noticeable.

EDIT: Those Corsair fans need speed to perform well.........and if they are the Air versions then they need to be retired......


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not a flow thing.
> 
> Look at how the rads are setup,move everything to intake on rads. Make sure the rads have good airflow exhausting as well as intake. Move to a single loop,you will get much better rad efficiency. Have the exhausting fans run slightly higher than the intaking fans to promote airflow in rad bays.
> 
> What fan speed do you run? Is that speed in the optimum point in the fans PQ curve?
> 
> Fans have a specific point where they are at their most efficient for their blade structure,the effects can be quite noticeable.
> 
> EDIT: Those Corsair fans need speed to perform well.........and if they are the Air versions then they need to be retired......


I have all the rads to Intake. I did have them in a dual loop. My CPU had the 480 and max water temps were 28c, and my GPU loop had the 560, 360, and 480 (38-39c water temps). My ambient is 21-22c. I can run my Vardars at 1500+ and my SP120's at max (1300).

Edit* as for the rads on intake, my 560 and 360 blow the air straight into the bottom compartment of my SMa8. Could that be a problem?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have all the rads to Intake. I did have them in a dual loop. My CPU had the 480 and max water temps were 28c, and my GPU loop had the 560, 360, and 480 (38-39c water temps). My ambient is 21-22c. I can run my Vardars at 1500+ and my SP120's at max (1300).
> 
> Edit* as for the rads on intake, my 560 and 360 blow the air straight into the bottom compartment of my SMa8. Could that be a problem?


Could be,you need to have decent airflow to exhaust properly.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Here is 2 pictures of my 2 XSPC led displays - both with original XSPC temp sensor too.
> 
> They are great, even though I burned them twice with 12V and it smelled and came smoke - they still work for some reason...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are worth every penny, best bang of the buck of any products available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A thing to point out thought! Be carefule, be extremely careful if you chose to take the them out of the lcd case, the display is connected with a + and a - cable so thin that you can barely even see them to a small pcb board. The display always lose from the pcb and you have to solder it back.
> 
> And, you can't use it without the case. The backside, backmount of the case makes a pressur on the pcb and display which is the only way to make it work. Difficult to explain, but somehow the display won't show any numbers if isn't placed right, stacked on the pcb with a hard pressure. Ae, forget it, probably you won't bother if you don't mess with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to take them out because I painted them and soldered the power from 2 units to 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they are great


Yes sir, that is slick! Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> Nice. I love those displays too. I used them in my old case for inlet and outlet water temp from the water block.
> 
> Now I'm just using a Goverlay LCD which displays my H2O temp before it goes in the waterblock, plus a lot more other stuff. Well worth the $25.


Tempting... But I just need something super simple and stand alone. It does look nice though.. Hmm.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I do also have led lights in mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My original XSPC 5mm leds died. Replaced them with 3mm white leds, 12V and 230 ohm resistor /per led, my led diodes keep dying... They work for a bit, then start binking/flashing and then dies.
> 
> This is only one side though, got the same on the other side*
> 
> 
> And yes, the build ins't done because my Asrock X99 Itx motherboard died by itself lol and Asrock service is the slowest one I ever met


Nothing compares to Asus service. It's a good thing their products are usually of good quality, because their service is grotesque.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I do also have led lights in mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My original XSPC 5mm leds died. Replaced them with 3mm white leds, 12V and 230 ohm resistor /per led, my led diodes keep dying... They work for a bit, then start binking/flashing and then dies.
> 
> This is only one side though, got the same on the other side*
> 
> 
> And yes, the build ins't done because my Asrock X99 Itx motherboard died by itself lol and Asrock service is the slowest one I ever met
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing compares to Asus service. It's a good thing their products are usually of good quality, because their service is grotesque.
Click to expand...

Never had a problem with their service. Maybe I'm just the oddball in the crowd, but I've RMA'ed drives and Motherboards through them without issue. Even when a DVD RW+ crapped out on me due to my own stupid stupid mistake, they simply had me ship it in and a week later I had a brand new unit to install for a client and haven't had to replace it. I've seen that client for other issues of his own making but I rely on ASUS quality probably more than most. My family has ASUS everything for the most part. Only reason my Brother has XFX GPUs, is cause my 5770 with LT warranty turned him into a fan. Can't wait for that card to finally fail.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> get like a 5-10c delta in water temps. It's very strange and obvious flow is most likely a matter, that I'm getting a 15c delta


I/'m still not convinced that flow is your issue.

The fact that your delta is relatively high for your setup indicates that the water itself is absorbing heat from your components. Its just that you are not cooling the water enough.

So as B NEGATIVE has suggested, go over your airflow paths etc.

Have you got a good pic of the lower section config of your SMA8 - Would be interesting to see how you have set up the rads & fans - ie are they facing and possible working against each other etc?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I/'m still not convinced that flow is your issue.
> 
> The fact that your delta is relatively high for your setup indicates that the water itself is absorbing heat from your components. Its just that you are not cooling the water enough.
> 
> So as B NEGATIVE has suggested, go over your airflow paths etc.
> 
> Have you got a good pic of the lower section config of your SMA8 - Would be interesting to see how you have set up the rads & fans - ie are they facing and possible working against each other etc?


I have my 560 on the main side, and 360 on the PSU side. Both are intake, so they are bringing air into the bottom chamber. From what I've been told (by some experts as well), that this isn't a problem.


----------



## lowfat

New hardware ready to go in to my Lian Li shortly. Decided to go w/ the Supreme HF. Spent the afternoon polishing it to the best of my ability.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have my 560 on the main side, and 360 on the PSU side. Both are intake, so they are bringing air into the bottom chamber. From what I've been told (by some experts as well), that this isn't a problem.


Hmmmm

If you have air being drawn in from both sides through both rads, where is the air going to go once it enters the chamber?

You have in effect 7x 140 fans bringing air into the chamber but I don't see too many clear paths for the hot air to exit???

Also the fans and rads are working against each other as they are effectively trying to push air against themselves...!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> New hardware ready to go in to my Lian Li shortly. Decided to go w/ the Supreme HF. Spent the afternoon polishing it to the best of my ability.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And it certainly is polished to the best of your ability, looks like it's made out of crystal!


----------



## Fuzzywinks

I'm just finishing up a project for a client/friend. This machine is for her writing and graphic design/animation work as well as some light to moderate gaming. She wanted it pretty and I think it turned out really well. We were trying to keep costs reasonable for a fully water cooled machine and she was fine with used parts so I picked up most of these components used or open box on eBay as well as using a few things I had laying around. I'm about 20 hours in to overclock verification running AIDA64 right now. I'll probably fold with this machine until I get her last payment









CPU: i7 4790k @ 4.8GHz, 1.3V
GPU: GTX 780 with hefty overclock
MOBO: MSI Krait Edition
RAM: 2x4GB Gskill DDR3 @ 1866
PSU: Thermaltake 1000W
Case: Fractal Design Define S


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Hmmmm
> 
> If you have air being drawn in from both sides through both rads, where is the air going to go once it enters the chamber?
> 
> You have in effect 7x 140 fans bringing air into the chamber but I don't see too many clear paths for the hot air to exit???
> 
> Also the fans and rads are working against each other as they are effectively trying to push air against themselves...!


Oh well. It is what it is. I told myself I wasn't going to put anymore money into this build, but since I've been getting high temps, I just had to get the flow meter. The flow meter is in now, but I need to bend some more tubing for my CPU. Later this week or next, I'll finish it and call it a "year or two" lol.

However, temps should be better. I applied some kyronaut to my GPU's, so that should lower those temps to. But I've decided to use all three pumps in a single loop. That way I can also leave them to be quiet. When I had dual loops, I pretty much had to leave my GPU loop pump at max speed, and that got pretty loud. And maybe later I will replace the SP120's on my front radiator.


----------



## tysonischarles

Got my LED strips, gonna do a photo shoot with the white and red inside my case, photos are coming


----------



## gree

Anybody know what size allen key i need for the screws on bitspower res/pump base?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> Speaking of frustrated and disappointed...
> 
> Bought a pair of Swiftec 355 pumps and each has a pair of Bitspower accessories: a top block and a heatsink. Each accessory comes with an allen wrench. But do these allen wrenches actually fit the 355 pumps? Noooo. They have a different measurement. In order to actually disassemble the pump to use these accessories, I have to GO TO THE F^#%ing STORE TO BUY ANOTHER ALLEN WRENCH.
> 
> 
> 
> I feel better now. Carry on.
> 
> EDIT
> 
> Anyone with this problem should check their automotive toolkit for a torx-20 wrench, such as used for headlight removal. Torx-20 fits the Swiftech MCP355 pump!
> 
> 
> 
> I feel sooo much better now.


Hmm i dont have a torx-20. What size allen tho?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> New hardware ready to go in to my Lian Li shortly. Decided to go w/ the Supreme HF. Spent the afternoon polishing it to the best of my ability.


Gotta RASPECK the old HF blocks.

I really wanna polish my Roundtop, but am afraid to take paper to it.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have my 560 on the main side, and 360 on the PSU side. Both are intake, so they are bringing air into the bottom chamber. From what I've been told (by some experts as well), that this isn't a problem.


Could it be possible having both as intake is the problem causing the heat to stay in the bottom. Maybe a fan below to exhaust or even the 360 as exhaust


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Could it be possible having both as intake is the problem causing the heat to stay in the bottom. Maybe a fan below to exhaust or even the 360 as exhaust


I've asked some people (experts here in the community), and they say that is unlikely the reason. Flow is most likely the problem, and that's what everyone has told me.

Maybe later I will add a fan to the bottom compartment to try and get rid of the heat. If the three pumps don't solve anything, then I know it's not the flow. I may even add a pedestal if that will solve the problem.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've asked some people (experts here in the community), and they say that is unlikely the reason. Flow is most likely the problem, and that's what everyone has told me.


The fact is that your water is actually heating up (15 deg delta) correct? As it is heating up fine - this implies that heat is being dumped from your CPU/GPU's into the water correctly.

The problem is that you are not extracting enough heat from your water which is what the radiators do. Increasing the flow will have little impact on your water delta temp.

I suspect that the internal lower section of your case is heating up as airflow is stuck inside between the two rads with not nearly enough exhaust opportunities.

Can you measure the temp inside the lower section between your rads? I would not be surprised that both of the rads down in your lower compartment are simply not working well due to airflow configuration restrictions.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> The fact is that your water is actually heating up (15 deg delta) correct? As it is heating up fine - this implies that heat is being dumped from your CPU/GPU's into the water correctly.
> 
> The problem is that you are not extracting enough heat from your water which is what the radiators do. Increasing the flow will have little impact on your water delta temp.
> 
> I suspect that the internal lower section of your case is heating up as airflow is stuck inside between the two rads with not nearly enough exhaust opportunities.
> 
> Can you measure the temp inside the lower section between your rads? I would not be surprised that both of the rads down in your lower compartment are simply not working well due to airflow configuration restrictions.


If that is the case, then I will add some 80mm fans to the back PSU slot and see if that helps. If it doesn't, I may add a pedestal LATER. Not now. I just don't have anymore funds to put toward this build. Over the past 2 years, I've put in quiet a lot.

Other than that, I really don't know how to fix the problem. That's the only place to put my 360mm rad.


----------



## Costas

Measure the temp in your lower chamber when you have the system all loaded etc.

Depending on the temp - it will give us a better idea of what is going on.


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Measure the temp in your lower chamber when you have the system all loaded etc.
> 
> Depending on the temp - it will give us a better idea of what is going on.


Yeah that could be the problem. All the hot air trapped in just heating the rads up.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Measure the temp in your lower chamber when you have the system all loaded etc.
> 
> Depending on the temp - it will give us a better idea of what is going on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> Yeah that could be the problem. All the hot air trapped in just heating the rads up.


Will do. I have some temp probes that came with my corsair link. I will see what it's like when I have my PC all set back up. Thanks for all the help.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've asked some people (experts here in the community), and they say that is unlikely the reason. Flow is most likely the problem, and that's what everyone has told me.
> 
> Maybe later I will add a fan to the bottom compartment to try and get rid of the heat. If the three pumps don't solve anything, then I know it's not the flow. I may even add a pedestal if that will solve the problem.


Who are these experts?

Flow plays such a small part in overall temps that a D5 will easily power your sli loop with much power to spare. My money is on stalled airflow in the ped,drop the bottom plate out and see if it improves the temps.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Who are these experts?
> 
> Flow plays such a small part in overall temps that a D5 will easily power your sli loop with much power to spare. My money is on stalled airflow in the ped,drop the bottom plate out and see if it improves the temps.


I have my third D5 mounted to the bottom plate lol. What about putting my PSU to exhaust the hot air? Or would that be bad for the PSU?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have my third D5 mounted to the bottom plate lol. What about putting my PSU to exhaust the hot air? Or would that be bad for the PSU?


Its not ideal and I dont think a 140 at low speed will be enough.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not ideal and I dont think a 140 at low speed will be enough.


Thanks for all the help. I will order some 80mm fans and use that in the extra PSU spot. Hopefully two of them can expell some air out of the bottom compartment.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have my third D5 mounted to the bottom plate lol. What about putting my PSU to exhaust the hot air? Or would that be bad for the PSU?


I've setup my psu that way (exhausting warm rad air) and so far i havent had problems *yet*.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've asked some people (experts here in the community), and they say that is unlikely the reason. Flow is most likely the problem, and that's what everyone has told me.
> 
> 
> 
> The fact is that your water is actually heating up (15 deg delta) correct? As it is heating up fine - this implies that heat is being dumped from your CPU/GPU's into the water correctly.
> 
> *The problem is that you are not extracting enough heat from your water which is what the radiators do. Increasing the flow will have little impact on your water delta temp.
> *
> I suspect that the internal lower section of your case is heating up as airflow is stuck inside between the two rads with not nearly enough exhaust opportunities.
> 
> Can you measure the temp inside the lower section between your rads? I would not be surprised that both of the rads down in your lower compartment are simply not working well due to airflow configuration restrictions.
Click to expand...

With normal flow rates, this is true . . . . .

But if the flow rate is compromised for some reason, the flow rate thru the rads may be low enough that it's become laminar.

The reason why rads use a flat tube design is to ensure turbulent flow at relatively low flow rates, but that doesn't mean that the flow rate can't drop so low that it becomes laminar.

If that's the case, all those big rads aren't going to mean squat

There are a couple reasons I've seen over the years that cause really low flow rates where they should have been Much higher.

I've had fittings with very small bores where you'd expect at least twice the bore size, and some fittings have at least a 2mm longer thread length than others.

With the long thread lengths, they can go too far thru what they screw into and just barely not hit what's at the other side of the thread. (outlet of a CPU block for example)

All the pumps in the world aren't going to move watermelons thru a hummingbird's butt

Steezy really needs to see what the flow meter tells him at this point to really know what direction to move in to get the temps better managed.

Darlene

Not the best pics, but you see what I mean about unusually long threads, and strangely reduced bore diameters versus normal on the left.

The stock Bp anti cyclone res fitting is another issue, especially with multi pump setups, it's amazingly restrictive when compared to their hi-flow version.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With normal flow rates, this is true . . . . .
> 
> But if the flow rate is compromised for some reason, the flow rate thru the rads may be low enough that it's become laminar.
> 
> The reason why rads use a flat tube design is to ensure turbulent flow at relatively low flow rates, but that doesn't mean that the flow rate can't drop so low that it becomes laminar.
> 
> If that's the case, all those big rads aren't going to mean squat
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There are a couple reasons I've seen over the years that cause really low flow rates where they should have been Much higher.
> 
> I've had fittings with very small bores where you'd expect at least twice the bore size, and some fittings have at least a 2mm longer thread length than others.
> 
> With the long thread lengths, they can go too far thru what they screw into and just barely not hit what's at the other side of the thread. (outlet of a CPU block for example)
> 
> All the pumps in the world aren't going to move watermelons thru a hummingbird's butt
> 
> Steezy really needs to see what the flow meter tells him at this point to really know what direction to move in to get the temps better managed.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Not the best pics, but you see what I mean about unusually long threads, and strangely reduced bore diameters versus normal on the left.
> 
> The stock Bp anti cyclone res fitting is another issue, especially with multi pump setups, it's amazingly restrictive when compared to their hi-flow version.


Surely when he filled and bled the loop,he would of noticed a low flow problem?
After all,it is a dual gpu loop,low flow should be patently obvious to my mind,especially during the fill as it would be so very difficult.

Steezy,how easy was the loop to fill and bleed?

The fitting thing is bang on,The old push locks i used to use had 10mm of thread on them,many of hours of filing was required......


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With normal flow rates, this is true . . . . .
> 
> But if the flow rate is compromised for some reason, the flow rate thru the rads may be low enough that it's become laminar.


True but something doesn't quite add up with his build as it seems he is utilising fairly standard components and it does not seem all that complex - he is currently running 2 D5's and considering a 3rd...!

We need a tad more detail pics/info on his config as we are guessing somewhat as to what the exact cause is. Maybe he has an oddball fitting etc which is really restricting the flow...?

Flowmeter to verify then process of elimination I guess if that is the cause.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> True but something doesn't quite add up with his build as it seems he is utilising fairly standard components and it does not seem all that complex - he is currently running 2 D5's and considering a 3rd...!
> 
> We need a tad more detail pics/info on his config as we are guessing somewhat as to what the exact cause is. Maybe he has an oddball fitting etc which is really restricting the flow...?
> 
> Flowmeter to verify then process of elimination I guess if that is the cause.


I just am still having a hard time with understanding the problem of the water temps.. Really just trying to comprehend the frustration. If steezy wouldn't have a water temp meter, what would his outlook be then? The purpose of this is to cool the GPU's better so they do not run in the mid 50C range correct?

Has a remount of the gpu blocks been advised? Is the CPU and GPU loop seperate? Running 2 x D5 pumps isn't a bad thing and not unheard of but possibly unnecessary. I run a single DDC for 2 x 980 EK waterblocks that are attached to a 480mm and 240mm rad.

I might be speaking crazy, but just thinking of other solutions. I feel if we are this deep in the build, then yes, get the flow rate locked in (What is it, is it stable yet, what is flow increase with 3 x D5 pumps)

What is the FPI of the rads you are using and what is the Fan speed at which you are running them at? Are you dissipating heat as efficiently as one possibly can. What is the ambient temperature in the room?

Of the Rads that are used in the loop for the gpus, what are set as intake and exhaust? I see some have mentioned an exhaust route for heat in the lower compartment of the SMA8, do you have even one fan in that compartment? Or is it only exhausted by the motion of the fans used on the outside of the rads?

TCO


----------



## funfordcobra

I had a flow problem with a d5. A CPU 90 was too tight. It was still flowing at around 50%. (Estimate) I replaced the fitting and temps dropped 10c at load.


----------



## gdubc

Awww man! My guns are too big. Chain guns that is. Fittings are so big I've given up using them as I had planned. I would have to buy so many angle fittings or extenders to be able to use them that I might as well get new fittings that will work better instead.
Which brings me to my question. I am using a mips iceforce and want to know which matches it better, standard chrome/silver, or the black chrome variant?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> 
> Awww man! My guns are too big. Chain guns that is. Fittings are so big I've given up using them as I had planned. I would have to buy so many angle fittings or extenders to be able to use them that I might as well get new fittings that will work better instead.
> Which brings me to my question. I am using a mips iceforce and want to know which matches it better, standard chrome/silver, or the black chrome variant?


Bummer on the fittings









(silver/chrome) Nickel plated fittings will match the Ice Force mount well, but matte black fittings will blend in nicely also


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ice Force you say?


----------



## fast_fate

indeed











*EDIT:* another pic which better (almost) shows "shining silver" fittings












Spoiler: envy


----------



## wermad

I has water











Two months without water...too much for me


----------



## gdubc

Thanks guys. I think I actually like the black the best. Doesn't detract from the Purdy block as much. I would love to get ahold of one of those ram blocks.


----------



## Trito

Hey guys,
Do you have any idea how they got pastel looking that color (Navy Blue-ish) in the NZXT Manta case video?


----------



## VSG

Looks more like Aurora to me.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks more like Aurora to me.


Because you can see particles moving in the reservoir? Might be but I really love the color and would love to replicate it on pastel instead of aurora which should be possible. Question is what kind of dyes you have to use to get that color.


----------



## VSG

Let's ask the guy who built that very rig. Paging @xD3aDPooLx


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks more like Aurora to me.


Or a blue pastel with dye and aurora booster.

TCO


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Let's ask the guy who built that very rig. Paging @xD3aDPooLx


Wow. Thank you. Will send him a pm.
And +1


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

That fluid is the pure black pastel with 4 booster bottles of silver aroura.


----------



## VSG

There we go, thanks Eric!


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> That fluid is the pure black pastel with 4 booster bottles of silver aroura.


As I said in the pm thank you. Much appreciated.








I assume silver aurora booster doesn't harm the loop in long term?


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Welcome all. The booster will disappear after some time.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With normal flow rates, this is true . . . . .
> 
> But if the flow rate is compromised for some reason, the flow rate thru the rads may be low enough that it's become laminar.
> 
> The reason why rads use a flat tube design is to ensure turbulent flow at relatively low flow rates, but that doesn't mean that the flow rate can't drop so low that it becomes laminar.
> 
> If that's the case, all those big rads aren't going to mean squat
> 
> There are a couple reasons I've seen over the years that cause really low flow rates where they should have been Much higher.
> 
> I've had fittings with very small bores where you'd expect at least twice the bore size, and some fittings have at least a 2mm longer thread length than others.
> 
> With the long thread lengths, they can go too far thru what they screw into and just barely not hit what's at the other side of the thread. (outlet of a CPU block for example)
> 
> All the pumps in the world aren't going to move watermelons thru a hummingbird's butt
> 
> Steezy really needs to see what the flow meter tells him at this point to really know what direction to move in to get the temps better managed.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Not the best pics, but you see what I mean about unusually long threads, and strangely reduced bore diameters versus normal on the left.
> 
> The stock Bp anti cyclone res fitting is another issue, especially with multi pump setups, it's amazingly restrictive when compared to their hi-flow version.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Surely when he filled and bled the loop,he would of noticed a low flow problem?
> After all,it is a dual gpu loop,low flow should be patently obvious to my mind,especially during the fill as it would be so very difficult.
> 
> Steezy,how easy was the loop to fill and bleed?
> 
> The fitting thing is bang on,The old push locks i used to use had 10mm of thread on them,many of hours of filing was required......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> True but something doesn't quite add up with his build as it seems he is utilising fairly standard components and it does not seem all that complex - he is currently running 2 D5's and considering a 3rd...!
> 
> We need a tad more detail pics/info on his config as we are guessing somewhat as to what the exact cause is. Maybe he has an oddball fitting etc which is really restricting the flow...?
> 
> Flowmeter to verify then process of elimination I guess if that is the cause.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I just am still having a hard time with understanding the problem of the water temps.. Really just trying to comprehend the frustration. If steezy wouldn't have a water temp meter, what would his outlook be then? The purpose of this is to cool the GPU's better so they do not run in the mid 50C range correct?
> 
> Has a remount of the gpu blocks been advised? Is the CPU and GPU loop seperate? Running 2 x D5 pumps isn't a bad thing and not unheard of but possibly unnecessary. I run a single DDC for 2 x 980 EK waterblocks that are attached to a 480mm and 240mm rad.
> 
> I might be speaking crazy, but just thinking of other solutions. I feel if we are this deep in the build, then yes, get the flow rate locked in (What is it, is it stable yet, what is flow increase with 3 x D5 pumps)
> 
> What is the FPI of the rads you are using and what is the Fan speed at which you are running them at? Are you dissipating heat as efficiently as one possibly can. What is the ambient temperature in the room?
> 
> Of the Rads that are used in the loop for the gpus, what are set as intake and exhaust? I see some have mentioned an exhaust route for heat in the lower compartment of the SMA8, do you have even one fan in that compartment? Or is it only exhausted by the motion of the fans used on the outside of the rads?
> 
> TCO


I will first add the pump, making it a giant single loop using three pumps total. I installed the flow meter, but I still need to put all the tubing in. When I get it all installed, I will check the flow. The flow should be a lot better.

At first I really thought the issue was all the heat in the bottom compartment, and I ask geggeg about it a few weeks ago. I even tried to move the 360 rad out from the bottom compartment and laid it on the side of the case where it wasn't directly in the compartment. Temps were the same. This is why I don't think it is directly related to the heat down there (but what do I know right lol).

BNEG, when I first had two pumps in the loop (CPU including 480mm), my XSPC pump wasn't running a low speed because it didn't work with the corsair link software. So like my Swiftech pump was running 4800, while my XSPC one was only running 2000).

But since it's an extremely large loop (going from from compartment to middle compartment, to too compartment), there are slots of ups and downs and 90's. I'm trying to get rid of some 90's.!but overall, the full wasn't too bad. I will fill it sometime this or next week and let you know.

As of now, I am only using 1 pump (1 pump for CPU and one pump for GPU's). But when I was running two pumps in a single loop, like I said before, there weren't running right.

TCO. Let me simplify my reasons. People have less rad space than me. People also run dual Titans. People run high voltages. People get 5c delta.. What the heck would explain a 15-17c delta?


----------



## emsj86

@steezy see jayztwocents (not to say he is the end all) but with 3 x Titan x s. He had to put a fan to exhaust and intake to keep the bottom section from overheating and making the temps rise. As for the high delta if your cards temps our normal. I'm incline to think maybe the sensor is not reading properly


----------



## kizwan

I agree (with experts here in the community) is that the likelihood of the problem is caused by trapped heat. Measuring case temp (vs. room temp) should be able to tell if this is true I think.


----------



## emsj86

I thought the whole point of a duel look is better temp control (also better pwm fan profile ). I would think duel loop would give you better temps (obviously depending on rad space) I wouldn't go a pedestal. Unless it's for another reason as t would be a waste of money. Your cooling two cards and have a ton of rad space for those cards (if anything it would hurt your flow even more)


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I agree (with experts here in the community) is that the likelihood of the problem is caused by trapped heat. Measuring case temp (vs. room temp) should be able to tell if this is true I think.


So geggeg isn't an expert?


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @steezy see jayztwocents (not to say he is the end all) but with 3 x Titan x s. He had to put a fan to exhaust and intake to keep the bottom section from overheating and making the temps rise. As for the high delta if your cards temps our normal. I'm incline to think maybe the sensor is not reading properly


Here he talks about his temps in this vid.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Do you have any idea how they got pastel looking that color (Navy Blue-ish) in the NZXT Manta case video?


Yikes that case is ugly. I'm watching TTLogan review it and I can't pay attention to what he's saying about the specs. It looks like an egg with racing stripes.









~Ceadder


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Soooo

My coolant is slowly disappearing. I dont know where it is going. I have checked every fitting. Any ideas? Could it really just be evaporating?

The only area that is questionable is the drain plug on my 240 rad. For some reason it seems to have oily substance around it every 12 hours or so. But no drip. Its almost as if the coolant heats up, expands at that port/plug, gets around the O-Ring just slightly. But the consistency isnt the same as the coolant itself. And it isnt letting through anywhere near the amount of fluid that I seem to be loosing.

Im using Mayhems X1, Alphacool Rads, EK compression soft-tube fittings, and a few Koolance QDs. Now, Ive had problems with the QDs when you first reconnect them. Some of them will leak a little. But I know to check for that (and have) long before completely putting my case back together. Anyone else have coolant loss like this? Seems like Im adding about 10ml every 12 hours. I never had this problem when I had my hardline tubing setup. Any chance Im sucking air in some place? Im totally lost on this. If I had a slow drip I would just chalk it up to that. But I dont


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Soooo
> 
> My coolant is slowly disappearing. I dont know where it is going. I have checked every fitting. Any ideas? Could it really just be evaporating?
> 
> The only area that is questionable is the drain plug on my 240 rad. For some reason it seems to have oily substance around it every 12 hours or so. But no drip. Its almost as if the coolant heats up, expands at that port/plug, gets around the O-Ring just slightly. But the consistency isnt the same as the coolant itself. And it isnt letting through anywhere near the amount of fluid that I seem to be loosing.
> 
> Im using Mayhems X1, Alphacool Rads, EK compression soft-tube fittings, and a few Koolance QDs. Now, Ive had problems with the QDs when you first reconnect them. Some of them will leak a little. But I know to check for that (and have) long before completely putting my case back together. Anyone else have coolant loss like this? Seems like Im adding about 10ml every 12 hours. I never had this problem when I had my hardline tubing setup. Any chance Im sucking air in some place? Im totally lost on this. If I had a slow drip I would just chalk it up to that. But I dont


When was this loop filled? My loop takes about 1 month of top ups to stabilize, depends how good you are at bleeding.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So geggeg isn't an expert?


What did I do now lol?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What did I do now lol?


Nothing. I was just saying that you're the one who helped me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Soooo
> 
> My coolant is slowly disappearing. I dont know where it is going. I have checked every fitting. Any ideas? Could it really just be evaporating?
> 
> The only area that is questionable is the drain plug on my 240 rad. For some reason it seems to have oily substance around it every 12 hours or so. But no drip. Its almost as if the coolant heats up, expands at that port/plug, gets around the O-Ring just slightly. But the consistency isnt the same as the coolant itself. And it isnt letting through anywhere near the amount of fluid that I seem to be loosing.
> 
> Im using Mayhems X1, Alphacool Rads, EK compression soft-tube fittings, and a few Koolance QDs. Now, Ive had problems with the QDs when you first reconnect them. Some of them will leak a little. But I know to check for that (and have) long before completely putting my case back together. Anyone else have coolant loss like this? Seems like Im adding about 10ml every 12 hours. I never had this problem when I had my hardline tubing setup. Any chance Im sucking air in some place? Im totally lost on this. If I had a slow drip I would just chalk it up to that. But I dont


All soft tube has fluid loss,nothing to be concerned about. If its a new loop then it does take time for the fluid to level off as there is still air being removed even if its not totally visible.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Nothing. I was just saying that you're the one who helped me.


Fairly easy to see what's going on here. Stick in the flow meter, and stick in a thermometer in various places inside. You will know soon enough what was going on, especially if the TIM spread was nice and the TIM hadn't dried up.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Soooo
> 
> My coolant is slowly disappearing. I dont know where it is going. I have checked every fitting. Any ideas? Could it really just be evaporating?
> 
> The only area that is questionable is the drain plug on my 240 rad. For some reason it seems to have oily substance around it every 12 hours or so. But no drip. Its almost as if the coolant heats up, expands at that port/plug, gets around the O-Ring just slightly. But the consistency isnt the same as the coolant itself. And it isnt letting through anywhere near the amount of fluid that I seem to be loosing.
> 
> Im using Mayhems X1, Alphacool Rads, EK compression soft-tube fittings, and a few Koolance QDs. Now, Ive had problems with the QDs when you first reconnect them. Some of them will leak a little. But I know to check for that (and have) long before completely putting my case back together. Anyone else have coolant loss like this? Seems like Im adding about 10ml every 12 hours. I never had this problem when I had my hardline tubing setup. Any chance Im sucking air in some place? Im totally lost on this. If I had a slow drip I would just chalk it up to that. But I dont
> 
> 
> 
> All soft tube has fluid loss,nothing to be concerned about. If its a new loop then it does take time for the fluid to level off as there is still air being removed even if its not totally visible.
Click to expand...

This. Soft tubing cannot stop evaporation, which is always hard at work.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Finally some GOOD NEWS!



Water temps are now a max of 31c (I also haven't turned on my 560 rads, so temps should drop even more), and my Titans X are a max of 40c.

I'm so dang happy now.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All soft tube has fluid loss,nothing to be concerned about. If its a new loop then it does take time for the fluid to level off as there is still air being removed even if its not totally visible.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This. Soft tubing cannot stop evaporation, which is always hard at work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


EK is claiming their ZMT soft tubing has no fluid loss through the tube. I am not a tube material expert, so I submit this for those who may dispute the claim.
https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-releases-new-ek-tube-zmt-soft-tube-for-liquid-cooling/
Quote:


> ZMT stands for Zero Maintenance Tubing and EK-Tube ZMT is a high quality, industrial grade EPDM rubber tubing in stylish matte black. This tubing is - just like Norprene - designed to withstand harsh conditions for a very long period of time, offering a truly exceptional lifespan even under UV, ozone and heat exposure for many years. *EK-Tube ZMT has no evaporation rate, which means that no liquid can evaporate through the tube walls.*
> 
> Unlike most PVC and PUR tubing this high quality EK made EPDM rubber tubing ensures long lasting operation and does not suffer from a plasticizer leaching effect which can cause blockage (gunking) in your liquid cooling loop. This tubing also allows for very small bend radius! It is guaranteed to be hassle-free even in the long run, which is something other PVC/PUR tubing cannot offer! EK recommends EK-ACF Fitting series compression fittings for the use with this tube.
> 
> EK offers three different dimensions and provides OD (outer diameter) and ID (inner diameter) with every model. For every dimension, EK offers retail version with 3 meters of tube, but customers can also buy any length as "per meter" option is available as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> EK is claiming their ZMT soft tubing has no fluid loss through the tube. I am not a tube material expert, so I submit this for those who may dispute the claim.
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-releases-new-ek-tube-zmt-soft-tube-for-liquid-cooling/


As much as I wish that was true, it's BS marketing. I had Predator for months(Which uses the same Tubing). It has loss some fluid (Not due to the leak recall).


----------



## funfordcobra

I just installed ek dual water pumps and when I try to get into the operating system I get a CPU fan error even though both my PWM show 4800 on the CPU and fan header side. Anyone point me in the right direction of how to get into my operating system?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I just installed ek dual water pumps and when I try to get into the operating system I get a CPU fan error even though both my PWM show 4800 on the CPU and fan header side. Anyone point me in the right direction of how to get into my operating system?


If you overclock anything I would reset all the value to their default settings and see if you can get in that way. I would also re-check everything in the bios.

Their are times bios settings can get screwed up.


----------



## methadon36

I been having the same issue the past few days, the first time it happened I got the cpu fan error and my temps started to rise slowly. I reset the pump
and cpu header plug and it worked until I rebooted later on that day. I got the cpu fan error but was getting reading in the bios of the pump working and the temps were fine. seems to happen every other bootup.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> EK is claiming their ZMT soft tubing has no fluid loss through the tube. I am not a tube material expert, so I submit this for those who may dispute the claim.
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-releases-new-ek-tube-zmt-soft-tube-for-liquid-cooling/
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I wish that was true, it's BS marketing. I had Predator for months(Which uses the same Tubing). It has loss some fluid (Not due to the leak recall).
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm uncertain to the validity of that claim but I would assume that anything porous would allow evaporation to occur. Although ZMT is rubber so far as I am aware and being old, I remember when fuel lines would be wet at the fitting but dry over the length of the fuel line. So, maybe they're basing their claims off ancient tech applied to newer tech. I dunno.









~Ceadder


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Finally some GOOD NEWS!
> 
> 
> 
> Water temps are now a max of 31c (I also haven't turned on my 560 rads, so temps should drop even more), and my Titans X are a max of 40c.
> 
> I'm so dang happy now.


So what was the cause of your high water temperature?


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yikes that case is ugly. I'm watching TTLogan review it and I can't pay attention to what he's saying about the specs. It looks like an egg with racing stripes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Should I just kick you in the shin for the comment







, LOL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yikes that case is ugly. I'm watching TTLogan review it and I can't pay attention to what he's saying about the specs. It looks like an egg with racing stripes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I just kick you in the shin for the comment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , LOL
Click to expand...

You're moar than welcome. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder and that thing while nicely cobbled together internally, just would never fit in my house. So I won't judge anyone for owning one or liking them. I actually had a flashback to when I was a kid watching...



Shozbat!









Hehehe.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> So what was the cause of your high water temperature?


Well the water temps decided to go up. The highest I've seen so far is 35c. That's still a 13-14c delta, but a lot better than the 17c delta. While water temps are up, my GPU temps are way down. I dropped almost 20c in GPU temps, which is weird because my water temps are so high. Idk if it's the new thermal paste or what. Last time I reseated the block, my temps were the same. Looks like I'll be using kyronaut for now on.

Now GPU temps are what I was looking for. As for water temps, I'm going to later test the temps in the bottom compartment, and still get a fan to blow some of the hot air out.


----------



## gree

Question, if i buy a cap for my res that has two g1/4, can i use that to fill and drain?

Or what else do i need to buy? I have a vertical bracket for the pump and res, that comes with anti vibration pads. The pads have 4 circles that match the bottom of the bracket/feet. Am i suppouse to screw that into my case?


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Question, if i buy a cap for my res that has two g1/4, can i use that to fill and drain?
> 
> Or what else do i need to buy? I have a vertical bracket for the pump and res, that comes with anti vibration pads. The pads have 4 circles that match the bottom of the bracket/feet. Am i suppouse to screw that into my case?


Photos and drawings (in paint) . . . The guys love photos and can help you quicker









Peace


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well the water temps decided to go up. The highest I've seen so far is 35c. That's still a 13-14c delta, but a lot better than the 17c delta. While water temps are up, my GPU temps are way down. *I dropped almost 20c in GPU temps, which is weird because my water temps are so high. Idk if it's the new thermal paste or what. Last time I reseated the block, my temps were the same. Looks like I'll be using kyronaut for now on.*
> 
> Now GPU temps are what I was looking for. As for water temps, I'm going to later test the temps in the bottom compartment, and still get a fan to blow some of the hot air out.


I am unsure that this "Kryonaut" would drop temps over 20c. Different TIMS I would think, vary performance-wise 10C and under. A 20C drop would be caused by something else.

TCO


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question. Can I have two Flow sensors with two Temp sensors in a single loop without affecting the flow rate to bad?


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Photos and drawings (in paint) . . . The guys love photos and can help you quicker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Peace




I dont have anything in the case yet so bare with me

This is the pads i mean.



Do i screw them into my case?



And on top of the res, if i buy a cap that has two g1/4, can i use that to fill and drain? If yes what do i need?

Also to run just water what else do i need in the res?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well the water temps decided to go up. The highest I've seen so far is 35c. That's still a 13-14c delta, but a lot better than the 17c delta. While water temps are up, my GPU temps are way down. *I dropped almost 20c in GPU temps, which is weird because my water temps are so high. Idk if it's the new thermal paste or what. Last time I reseated the block, my temps were the same. Looks like I'll be using kyronaut for now on.*
> 
> Now GPU temps are what I was looking for. As for water temps, I'm going to later test the temps in the bottom compartment, and still get a fan to blow some of the hot air out.
> 
> 
> 
> I am unsure that this "Kryonaut" would drop temps over 20c. Different TIMS I would think, vary performance-wise 10C and under. A 20C drop would be caused by something else.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Could've been a bad seat. I'm assuming Kryonaut wasn't the TIM prior to the re-seat, So between the bad seat and new TIM applied, it very well could be due to the Kryonaut. Cause that much difference in temp, is generally due to something mechanical. i.e Lapping cooling surface or delidding etc.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am unsure that this "Kryonaut" would drop temps over 20c. Different TIMS I would think, vary performance-wise 10C and under. A 20C drop would be caused by something else.
> 
> TCO


I'm aware it wasn't just the kyronaut. The flow had something to do with it too. As of now, I'm getting 1.21GPM in my loop with all three pumps running at max. When I had the dual loops, I bet my flow was almost half of that. I just don't know much about the heat. I'll solve that another day (most likely buy getting a fan to blow the heat out the back)

But for now, I'm perfectly fine with my temps. I haven't exceeded 43c at all in any games nor benchmarkes. Before, I would reach 64c when I ran firestrike ultra loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Could've been a bad seat. I'm assuming Kryonaut wasn't the TIM prior to the re-seat, So between the bad seat and new TIM applied, it very well could be due to the Kryonaut. Cause that much difference in temp, is generally due to something mechanical. i.e Lapping cooling surface or delidding etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i don't think it has much to do with reseating though. I've reseated my blocks like 4 or 5 times since May of last year. Almost every time I would reach the same temps (+/- give or take). This is my first time using kyronaut, but it must've dropped them a few degrees. That's also factoring in the third pump. So overall, it must've been the kyronaut and extra pump giving me that 20c drop.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Could've been a bad seat. I'm assuming Kryonaut wasn't the TIM prior to the re-seat, So between the bad seat and new TIM applied, it very well could be due to the Kryonaut. Cause that much difference in temp, is generally due to something mechanical. i.e Lapping cooling surface or delidding etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


But not solely the TIM is responsible for 20c Drop.

TCO

EDIT:


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> But not solely the TIM is responsible for 20c Drop.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT:


Nowhere did I say anything like that. Never did I say it was solely the TIM.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> If you overclock anything I would reset all the value to their default settings and see if you can get in that way. I would also re-check everything in the bios.
> 
> Their are times bios settings can get screwed up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *methadon36*
> 
> I been having the same issue the past few days, the first time it happened I got the cpu fan error and my temps started to rise slowly. I reset the pump
> and cpu header plug and it worked until I rebooted later on that day. I got the cpu fan error but was getting reading in the bios of the pump working and the temps were fine. seems to happen every other bootup.


OK well it is a bios thing. I had the CPU fan set to pwm manual full speed. That gave the error. If I set it to turbo I don't get the error. I have one pump running full speed from a fan header and the other to the pwm. The only way that I can guess to run them full throttle is just put a fdamn fan somewhere in my rig hooked straight up to the CPU pwm turbo connection and let my mobo mess with that fan. I'll run my pumps on other headers and the spare fan should clear up that error.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Could've been a bad seat. I'm assuming Kryonaut wasn't the TIM prior to the re-seat, So between the bad seat and new TIM applied, it very well could be due to the Kryonaut. Cause that much difference in temp, is generally due to something mechanical. i.e Lapping cooling surface or delidding etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But not solely the TIM is responsible for 20c Drop.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Flow had something to do with it mostly as I just found out.

But let's just say that flow didn't have anything to do with it. A bad seat can cost as much as 12c in increased temps. i.e. too little TIM

Replacement of that TIM(one that is inferior to Kryonaut) with a good seat could logically reverse that 12c and net you an increase of cooling temp to 8c.

So that right there would be a 20 point swing to the positive side of temps.

But since flow does have something to do with it, So Flow and Kryonaut could likely have made all the difference in the world.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Nowhere did I say anything like that. Never did I say it was solely the TIM.


I quoted Ceadderman







I realize you never said this. I did.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Flow had something to do with it mostly as I just found out.
> 
> But let's just say that flow didn't have anything to do with it. *A bad seat can cost as much as 12c in increased temps*. i.e. too little TIM
> 
> Replacement of that TIM(one that is inferior to Kryonaut) with a good seat could logically reverse that 12c and net you an increase of cooling temp to 8c.
> 
> So that right there would be a 20 point swing to the positive side of temps.
> 
> But since flow does have something to do with it, So Flow and Kryonaut could likely have made all the difference in the world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree with you completely. My top card runs at 46c max while my bottom card runs at 40c Max (Due to an inferior TIM job on the top card I am presuming)
I used EK Therm on both of the cards. If I were to re-seat the top card with Kyronaut (example) then I could possibly run the top card with optimal reseat and great TIM at max of 38C. A decrease of 8C. I comprehend what you are putting down.

My question is. Has the cards been run with just 2 pumps? Was flow that horrible? I thought the original layout was dual pumps, one for the CPU one for the GPUS in SLI. Now the layout for Steezy is 3 pumps for a single loop.

So many elements.

TCO


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Now the layout for Steezy is 3 pumps for a single loop.


OK - What SleezyTN could do to prove a few things is to simply de-power one pump.

This will allow him to check temps again with just his original two pumps - the remaining third which will be switched off will add a little restriction but it will allow some further insight to his issue(s).

I'm curious to see how much impact the 3rd pump has or hasn't...?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Now the layout for Steezy is 3 pumps for a single loop.
> 
> 
> 
> OK - What SleezyTN could do to prove a few things is to simply de-power one pump.
> 
> This will allow him to check temps again with just his original two pumps - the remaining third which will be switched off will add a little restriction but it will allow some further insight to his issue(s).
> 
> I'm curious to see how much impact the 3rd pump has or hasn't...?
Click to expand...

Remember he is running dual-loop before, one pump each.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> OK - What SleezyTN could do to prove a few things is to simply de-power one pump.
> 
> This will allow him to check temps again with just his original two pumps - the remaining third which will be switched off will add a little restriction but it will allow some further insight to his issue(s).
> 
> I'm curious to see how much impact the 3rd pump has or hasn't...?


As of now, the issue is "solved". I don't want to keep spamming this thread with all my comments. But before I go (lol), TCO is right. I'm comparing my dual loops with my single loop and three pumps. I can't get the same as before because I added a CPU and a 480mm rad. That's some restriction, while not a lot, but still is. My loop is very restrictive because I'm only getting 1.21GPM, and that's with three D5s at full speed. When I completely turn off one, it drops down to .8GPM.

But anyways, I'll drop the issue because at the moment I don't really care about my water temps. All I wanted was for my GPU temps to drop. Overall, I dropped 20c by changing the thermal paste, switching to a single loop and utilizing the fourth rad, and adding the third pump. So as of now, I'm a happy camper lol.

And again, sorry if I spammed this thread. I very much appreciate all the help.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> As of now, the issue is "solved". I don't want to keep spamming this thread with all my comments. But before I go (lol), TCO is right. I'm comparing my dual loops with my single loop and three pumps. I can't get the same as before because I added a CPU and a 480mm rad. That's some restriction, while not a lot, but still is. My loop is very restrictive because I'm only getting 1.21GPM, and that's with three D5s at full speed. When I completely turn off one, it drops down to .8GPM.
> 
> But anyways, I'll drop the issue because at the moment I don't really care about my water temps. All I wanted was for my GPU temps to drop. Overall, I dropped 20c by changing the thermal paste, switching to a single loop and utilizing the fourth rad, and adding the third pump. So as of now, I'm a happy camper lol.
> 
> And again, sorry if I spammed this thread. I very much appreciate all the help.


Im interested in this,what was changed in the loop? A pair of GPU blocks and a couple of rads are easily serviced by a D5 so adding a second pump should of made 0 difference. 2 D5's should easily power a single loop.

If you could provide temps with one pump off and 2 on,that would be good,its not case solved for me as a few changes were made without testing between them so the root cause was not found. Adding the forth rad (not in the ped?) probably had the most significant effect.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im interested in this,what was changed in the loop? A pair of GPU blocks and a couple of rads are easily serviced by a D5 so adding a second pump should of made 0 difference. 2 D5's should easily power a single loop.
> 
> If you could provide temps with one pump off and 2 on,that would be good,its not case solved for me as a few changes were made without testing between them so the root cause was not found. Adding the forth rad (not in the ped?) probably had the most significant effect.


Correct. I made changes to the overall loop. Right now I'm running 2 GPU blocks, CPU block, 560GTS (very restrictive), RX480, RX360, RX240. I believe adding the 480 (mounted in the top of the case) is what made my overall temps go down; that and a combination of the pumps and thermal paste change. While I do have over a 10c delta, I'm not too worried because I haven't exceeded 43c on my two Titan X's running 1.274v. Before, I would hit 64c. That's a 21c drop in temps by doing what I did.

So as of now, case solved lol. Thanks for the help.

Edit* I would also like to add that I moved my 360 in the bottom compartment to an exhaust. It seriously dropped my water temps 2c. I'm getting 30-30.5c for my water temps at max


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> As much as I wish that was true, it's BS marketing. I had Predator for months(Which uses the same Tubing). It has loss some fluid (Not due to the leak recall).


Actually ZMT is made of EPDM material which is beside the silicon the only material used in washing machines for the below (the sealing rubber between the tub / drum and opening, marked as S in the pic). And this material is very durable to mechanical, chemical and thermal stress.



So I really buy if they say this material doesn's have evaporation. It's a proper rubber.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> As of now, the issue is "solved". I don't want to keep spamming this thread with all my comments. But before I go (lol), TCO is right. I'm comparing my dual loops with my single loop and three pumps. I can't get the same as before because I added a CPU and a 480mm rad. That's some restriction, while not a lot, but still is. My loop is very restrictive because I'm only getting 1.21GPM, and that's with three D5s at full speed. When I completely turn off one, it drops down to .8GPM.
> 
> But anyways, I'll drop the issue because at the moment I don't really care about my water temps. All I wanted was for my GPU temps to drop. Overall, I dropped 20c by changing the thermal paste, switching to a single loop and utilizing the fourth rad, and adding the third pump. So as of now, I'm a happy camper lol.
> 
> And again, sorry if I spammed this thread. I very much appreciate all the help.


Just curious, what is your tubing Inner diameter?


----------



## Benjiw

If I got one of these for my AMD rig, should I mount it to the case or rad box? I have a good offer on one.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If I got one of these for my AMD rig, should I mount it to the case or rad box? I have a good offer on one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Buy two boxes and put them together.



Bad picture sorry.
It has a 250w psu with on/off switch and a fan controller on the other side.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have anything in the case yet so bare with me
> 
> This is the pads i mean.
> 
> 
> 
> Do i screw them into my case?
> 
> 
> 
> And on top of the res, if i buy a cap that has two g1/4, can i use that to fill and drain? If yes what do i need?
> 
> Also to run just water what else do i need in the res?


Bump


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> 
> 
> Bump


I would think that an in line drain valve between the card and pump would better serve you for a drain than up over the res. As for the fill port, if you get a res top with 2 ports, all you need is a cap to screw in once its filled. So you would need a "T", a ball valve and a cap.

Drains are best placed at the lowest point in the loop, otherwise you have to turn you pc on its face to drain.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I would think that an in line drain valve between the card and pump would better serve you for a drain than up over the res. As for the fill port, if you get a res top with 2 ports, all you need is a cap to screw in once its filled. So you would need a "T", a ball valve and a cap.
> 
> Drains are best placed at the lowest point in the loop, otherwise you have to turn you pc on its face to drain.


Could you show me on my pic where and what those parts look like?










This is the cap i was gonna buy


----------



## emsj86

night time pictures





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm just curious; do 90 degree fittings contribute to restrictions? Not little restriction, but huge? I have roughly 12 or so 90 degree fitting in my build. With all 4 rads and two reservoirs, I get 1.21GPM.


----------



## Kimir

Your flow is good enough not to worry about it. See my panda rig, I have no temp problem even with my "low flow" of 150L/H (2.5L/M or 0.66GPM U.S.).


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm just curious; do 90 degree fittings contribute to restrictions? Not little restriction, but huge? I have roughly 12 or so 90 degree fitting in my build. With all 4 rads and two reservoirs, I get 1.21GPM.


I believe it was Martin's Liquid Lab that showed multiple 90° angles (fittings) have little to no impact on flow rates.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm just curious; do 90 degree fittings contribute to restrictions? Not little restriction, but huge? I have roughly 12 or so 90 degree fitting in my build. With all 4 rads and two reservoirs, I get 1.21GPM.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it was Martin's Liquid Lab that showed multiple 90° angles (fittings) have little to no impact on flow rates.
Click to expand...

Except for right at the Pump outlet. So long as that can be avoided, it makes little to no difference.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Except for right at the Pump outlet. So long as that can be avoided, it makes little to no difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I remember hearing that. What about this? It's connect to the res, but that's technically the pump right?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I would think that an in line drain valve between the card and pump would better serve you for a drain than up over the res. As for the fill port, if you get a res top with 2 ports, all you need is a cap to screw in once its filled. So you would need a "T", a ball valve and a cap.
> 
> Drains are best placed at the lowest point in the loop, otherwise you have to turn you pc on its face to drain.
> 
> 
> 
> Could you show me on my pic where and what those parts look like?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the cap i was gonna buy
Click to expand...

This goes in line between the GPU and the pump.


This comes off the extra end of the "T"


and two of these for the extra holes in the res top after it is full.


Like this:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Except for right at the Pump outlet. So long as that can be avoided, it makes little to no difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember hearing that. What about this? It's connect to the res, but that's technically the pump right?
Click to expand...

Yes, but in all fairness those outlets are gravity assisted. They put hardly any strain on the pump. Now if they were pushing coolant 180* the opposite direction that probably would be bad. So in that event I would suggest using BP multi rotary fittings to get a better angle of flow.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I would think that an in line drain valve between the card and pump would better serve you for a drain than up over the res. As for the fill port, if you get a res top with 2 ports, all you need is a cap to screw in once its filled. So you would need a "T", a ball valve and a cap.
> 
> Drains are best placed at the lowest point in the loop, otherwise you have to turn you pc on its face to drain.
> 
> 
> 
> Could you show me on my pic where and what those parts look like?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the cap i was gonna buy
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This goes in line between the GPU and the pump.
> 
> 
> This comes off the extra end of the "T"
> 
> 
> and two of these for the extra holes in the res top after it is full.
> 
> 
> Like this:
Click to expand...

A 180* T fitting would be the better way to go. This way the fitting can be rotated out from the system and the coolant can be drained completely outside of the case. It's a bit more than the one you have listed, but well worth it.
















Apologies for the double post folks. I don't normally do this, so hope you'll understand.









~Ceadder


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Except for right at the Pump outlet. So long as that can be avoided, it makes little to no difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That does nothing in my loop.i have 18 90degree fittings.2x250 ek res..2x480 rads...1x240 rad..2xgpu...1xcpu..ac flow meter...i have 90 on the inlet and outlet of my d5..i have it set to 3 and i get about 130 on my flow meter.....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Except for right at the Pump outlet. So long as that can be avoided, it makes little to no difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That does nothing in my loop.i have 18 90degree fittings.2x250 ek res..2x480 rads...1x240 rad..2xgpu...1xcpu..ac flow meter...i have 90 on the inlet and outlet of my d5..i have it set to 3 and i get about 130 on my flow meter.....
Click to expand...

But it adds a restriction right at the pump. Will it kill your pump? No. But your rate of flow suffers right from the beginning of the loop. Which was my point. Never said it would kill a pump or lead to pump damage. Just pointing out that it's preferred not to run a 90* right at the pump outlet.









~Ceadder


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A 180* T fitting would be the better way to go. This way the fitting can be rotated out from the system and the coolant can be drained completely outside of the case. It's a bit more than the one you have listed, but well worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Good call.


----------



## pc-illiterate

its not a good idea for the flow or pump to have a 90* at the inlet. it can help start cavitation/pump starving.


----------



## Revan654

Just order all my watercooling Parts for my first attempt at Watercooling, Is their anything else I need? Is the Swiftech MCP655 Series Pump any good? I was debating between Swiftech MCP655 Series, Alpha Cool Speed control and Aquacomputer Speed control.

Also with Distilled Water and Dazmode Protector whats the longest time I can run my PC for? I don't have any kind of dyes in the system if that matters.

Aquacomputer Front Faceplate for Aquaero 5/6 XT Aluminium - Black (New Version)
Bitspower Matte Black Rotary Fitting "Q" PLUS - 360 Degree Water Cooling Accessory
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary Angle IG1/4" Extender
Bitspower Premium G1/4" Matte Black Stop Fitting
Aquacomputer Passive Heatsink for Aquaero 6 - Black
Bitspower G1/4" Black Matte Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate for ID 3/8" OD 5/8
Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue USB Fan-Controller, Graphic-LCD, Touch Control, IR Remote Control
Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal
Swiftech MCP655 Series 12 VDC D5 Water Pumps - With Speed Control
EK-FC980 GTX TF5 Backplate Rev. 2 - Black
EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel
Bitspower Matt Black T-Block With Triple IG1/4"
Bitspower BP-MVV-MBK Mini-Valve - Matte Black
DEMCiflex 120mm Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Black
Bitspower Premium G1/4" Matte Black Stop Fitting
Bitspower Flow Indicator (BP-FI-CLBKMBK) - Clear/Black/Matte Black
Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Male to Male Rotary Adapter
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Rotary Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 60-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting Ultimate-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary Angle IG1/4" Extender
Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS® Ultra Stealth U-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon
Bitspower G1/4" Black Matte Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate for ID 3/8" OD 5/8"
Flexible Tube 3/8″ ID, 5/8″ OD (10/16mm) -Blue UV
DazMode Protector
GELID Extreme Thermal Compound GC-Extreme
Distilled Water x2 Gallons
S8 and S8S Drop-in Top Radiator Mounts (Style: 2 x 120.3 (360)
S8S Top Covers (S8S Top Cover Style: 36mm Extended Ventilated )
Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan (550-1850rpm) 58cfm - Black Edition PWM


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Just order all my watercooling Parts for my first attempt at Watercooling, Is their anything else I need? Is the Swiftech MCP655 Series Pump any good? I was debating between Swiftech MCP655 Series, Alpha Cool Speed control and Aquacomputer Speed control.
> 
> Also with Distilled Water and Dazmode Protector whats the longest time I can run my PC for? I don't have any kind of dyes in the system if that matters.
> 
> Aquacomputer Front Faceplate for Aquaero 5/6 XT Aluminium - Black (New Version)
> Bitspower Matte Black Rotary Fitting "Q" PLUS - 360 Degree Water Cooling Accessory
> Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary Angle IG1/4" Extender
> Bitspower Premium G1/4" Matte Black Stop Fitting
> Aquacomputer Passive Heatsink for Aquaero 6 - Black
> Bitspower G1/4" Black Matte Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate for ID 3/8" OD 5/8
> Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
> Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue USB Fan-Controller, Graphic-LCD, Touch Control, IR Remote Control
> Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal
> Swiftech MCP655 Series 12 VDC D5 Water Pumps - With Speed Control
> EK-FC980 GTX TF5 Backplate Rev. 2 - Black
> EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel
> Bitspower Matt Black T-Block With Triple IG1/4"
> Bitspower BP-MVV-MBK Mini-Valve - Matte Black
> DEMCiflex 120mm Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Black
> Bitspower Premium G1/4" Matte Black Stop Fitting
> Bitspower Flow Indicator (BP-FI-CLBKMBK) - Clear/Black/Matte Black
> Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Male to Male Rotary Adapter
> Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Rotary Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
> Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 60-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
> Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting Ultimate-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
> Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
> Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary Angle IG1/4" Extender
> Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS® Ultra Stealth U-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon
> Bitspower G1/4" Black Matte Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate for ID 3/8" OD 5/8"
> Flexible Tube 3/8″ ID, 5/8″ OD (10/16mm) -Blue UV
> DazMode Protector
> GELID Extreme Thermal Compound GC-Extreme
> Distilled Water x2 Gallons
> S8 and S8S Drop-in Top Radiator Mounts (Style: 2 x 120.3 (360)
> S8S Top Covers (S8S Top Cover Style: 36mm Extended Ventilated )
> Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan (550-1850rpm) 58cfm - Black Edition PWM


Holy wall of text Batman this should have been it's own thread!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Nowhere did I say anything like that. Never did I say it was solely the TIM.


It's nice you got your Gpus lower. But is it me or the information (gpu temps) changed over time. You said before they maxed in the 50 than 60s later on. I'm interested to see what temp you'll have with one pump. Seems as temounting the cards was the real major factor. As for the high water temp. I still think something is off on that and possibly it's the actually sensor reading off (which can be checked by putting it in a cup of ice). Just confusing is all as temps and info all over the place.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Holy wall of text Batman this should have been it's own thread!


guess I should.

Link to Thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1591305/first-time-water-cooling-need-some-insight


----------



## paskowitz

Looking for some feedback on my custom acrylic additions to my current build.
Quote:


> Rough sketch of final design (Colors are not final and are meant to represent shape)*
> 
> Notes:
> - The white area will be acrylic not covered by vinyl wrap and be lit by RGB LEDs from the back of the acrylic pieces.
> - Window will be tinted
> - Fans will have an outer shroud (that also covers the brown pads), but nothing infront of the fan surface)
> - RAM will have a semi ghetto cover that will make it look like there are 3 sticks... still thinking this one through...
> - SSD will behind a flat piece of acrylic with a small window (rest vinyl wrapped)
> - Still working on an integrated way to add EVGA and Asus logos to the PSU shroud. Taking suggestions...
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I cannot decide on is connecting the illuminated acrylic strip or leaving it as it is (not connected). Thoughts?
> 
> Shot of current build without Ps:
> 
> 
> Also, GPU backplate design:


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It's nice you got your Gpus lower. But is it me or the information (gpu temps) changed over time. You said before they maxed in the 50 than 60s later on. I'm interested to see what temp you'll have with one pump. Seems as temounting the cards was the real major factor. As for the high water temp. I still think something is off on that and possibly it's the actually sensor reading off (which can be checked by putting it in a cup of ice). Just confusing is all as temps and info all over the place.


50's was normal gaming. I would reach 60's when I ran firestrike ultra loops. Now that the water has bleed, I'm now getting a max of 37-39c MAX


----------



## emsj86

That's good than


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's good than


im super excited now. But I'm now realizing the third pump isn't contributing, except for flow. Oh well. I already had the pump. I just had to buy a top. I could always use it if I do another build (not likely though lol).


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But it adds a restriction right at the pump. Will it kill your pump? No. But your rate of flow suffers right from the beginning of the loop. Which was my point. Never said it would kill a pump or lead to pump damage. Just pointing out that it's preferred not to run a 90* right at the pump outlet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What i was getting at before is i have close to the same loop with 18 90 degree fittings and a d5 set to 3 and have a 130 on my flowmeter..3 d5s should be 400..there is obviously more then a few 90s restricting flow


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> What i was getting at before is i have close to the same loop with 18 90 degree fittings and a d5 set to 3 and have a 130 on my flowmeter..3 d5s should be 400..there is obviously more then a few 90s restricting flow


What's 130? We need the exact measurements.


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What's 130? We need the exact measurements.


Exactly exact measurements are needed to make it possible for someone to help you


----------



## RpeeKooz

139l/h is what my aqua computer flow meter is reading..d5 set to 3


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> 139l/h is what my aqua computer flow meter is reading..d5 set to 3


I get 276LPH. I also have one more rad than you. But, I have a 560GTS and it's a very restrictive rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> Exactly exact measurements are needed to make it possible for someone to help you


what?


----------



## wermad

Anyone have some input to my question:

Noticed that the first pump/res unit is holding full water and if I undo the plug, water pushes out immediately. The second pump/res is holding a pocket of air that I purge but it doesn't change its water level??? Even if I shut off the second pump, the first pump still pushes upwards where as in the past, the water level on the one-pump-loop would always drop as soon as air pressure was relieved when undoing the plug.

Loop is holding up fantastically and not a single issue with any of the fittings, reservoirs, tops, etc. Barrow stuff. I did triple check everything and made sure the o-rings were not chewed up after re-installing the entire loop after painting the rads (and the entire case







).



edit: loop order; pump/res #1 > mb > cpu > gpu/gpu> 480 > 480 > 480> 480 > pump/res #2 > 480 > 560 > 560 > 480 > pump/res #1...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> Exactly. Exact measurements are needed to make it possible for someone to help you
> 
> 
> 
> what?
Click to expand...

Read that again to get the gist. One piece of punctuation makes all the difference.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Read that again to get the gist. One piece of punctuation makes all the difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Now it makes since lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But it adds a restriction right at the pump. Will it kill your pump? No. But your rate of flow suffers right from the beginning of the loop. Which was my point. Never said it would kill a pump or lead to pump damage. Just pointing out that it's preferred not to run a 90* right at the pump outlet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What i was getting at before is i have close to the same loop with 18 90 degree fittings and a d5 set to 3 and have a 130 on my flowmeter..3 d5s should be 400..there is obviously more then a few 90s restricting flow
Click to expand...

So your FM is showing 130? I'd say it's due to the 90*s. You have 18 of them after all. Any coming off the pumps? If so try replacing them with snake rotary fittings and see if it doesn't increase your rate.

Every block adds a restrictive point in your loop.
Ever radiator contributes to the restrictive property of your rate of flow.

But you need these. No way to run a loop without them.

Reservoirs add restriction too. You can remove it, but I wouldn't suggest doing so.

So in the end you're slowing down your flow rate with that many 90* fittings. I'd remove what you don't need to help things run smoother.

But that's just me. There are quite a few here that love their fittings and know their 90*s are a tad restrictive. They live with it. You may be one of those Watercoolers too. Dunno.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So your FM is showing 130? I'd say it's due to the 90*s. You have 18 of them after all. Any coming off the pumps? If so try replacing them with snake rotary fittings and see if it doesn't increase your rate.
> 
> Every block adds a restrictive point in your loop.
> Ever radiator contributes to the restrictive property of your rate of flow.
> 
> But you need these. No way to run a loop without them.
> 
> Reservoirs add restriction too. You can remove it, but I wouldn't suggest doing so.
> 
> So in the end you're slowing down your flow rate with that many 90* fittings. I'd remove what you don't need to help things run smoother.
> 
> But that's just me. There are quite a few here that love their fittings and know their 90*s are a tad restrictive. They live with it. You may be one of those Watercoolers too. Dunno.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah I have 13 in mine. When I replace the soft tubing on my CPU to rigid, I may try to redo the tubing where my 90's are. I just don't know how I'd route it though. But now I'm okay with my 90's. With my 3 pumps, im getting 1.21GPM (4.6LPM / 276 LPH)


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A 180* T fitting would be the better way to go. This way the fitting can be rotated out from the system and the coolant can be drained completely outside of the case. It's a bit more than the one you have listed, but well worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the double post folks. I don't normally do this, so hope you'll understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Theres one called t rotary adapter and another called t-block with trippl g1/4. are those something else?


----------



## shremi

Guys i have a bit of a dilemma here and i wanted to ask for your opinion ....

I am downsizing to a new case which can only hold a single rad .... My options are 3x140 mm which i already have an alphacool xt45 or to buy a black ice gtx 480... For fans both of them will be running push pull .... I own 6 140mm fans which i had in my phanteks and 7 GT ap 15s .... I would have to invest in buying the 480 rad plus only a single ap 15 or if i stay with the xt 45 none money is required...

I did the following math maybe i am wrong but here it goes :

140mm*140mm*3 = 58,800mm
120mm*120mm*4 = 57,600mm

Which may be to believe that i am better off with the 420 rad since it has more area for fins and for the heat to dissipate ... I know the difference is small and i really don't mind investing the money if it will give me better performance ...

Thoughts ???

TIA

Shremi


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A 180* T fitting would be the better way to go. This way the fitting can be rotated out from the system and the coolant can be drained completely outside of the case. It's a bit more than the one you have listed, but well worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the double post folks. I don't normally do this, so hope you'll understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theres one called t rotary adapter and another called t-block with trippl g1/4. are those something else?
Click to expand...

Something like this is what I am referring to.

Bitspower Black Triple Rotary

They have them at PPCs and are almost always suggested over hard 90* fittings due their 45* to 45* setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Guys i have a bit of a dilemma here and i wanted to ask for your opinion ....
> 
> I am downsizing to a new case which can only hold a single rad .... My options are 3x140 mm which i already have an alphacool xt45 or to buy a black ice gtx 480... For fans both of them will be running push pull .... I own 6 140mm fans which i had in my phanteks and 7 GT ap 15s .... I would have to invest in buying the 480 rad plus only a single ap 15 or if i stay with the xt 45 none money is required...
> 
> I did the following math maybe i am wrong but here it goes :
> 
> 140mm*140mm*3 = 58,800mm
> 120mm*120mm*4 = 57,600mm
> 
> Which may be to believe that i am better off with the 420 rad since it has more area for fins and for the heat to dissipate ... I know the difference is small and i really don't mind investing the money if it will give me better performance ...
> 
> Thoughts ???
> 
> TIA
> 
> Shremi


Which fans do you have on your alphacool rad? 140mm fans are famous for their low static pressure. You can't really just compare the square millimetres when fans with very different characteristics are used.
If you'd ask me the GTX would perform better, by how much? no idea. Definitely depends on how silent you want the build to be as well.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Something like this is what I am referring to.
> 
> Bitspower Black Triple Rotary
> 
> They have them at PPCs and are almost always suggested over hard 90* fittings due their 45* to 45* setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


[/quote]

With the t i can have a mini valve on the 3rd end and just open it to drain.

With the one ur linking where would i connect the mini valve?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Something like this is what I am referring to.
> 
> Bitspower Black Triple Rotary
> 
> They have them at PPCs and are almost always suggested over hard 90* fittings due their 45* to 45* setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With the t i can have a mini valve on the 3rd end and just open it to drain.
> 
> With the one ur linking where would i connect the mini valve?
Click to expand...

The Rotary T comes off the Pump. Flows straight through to your loop. The bottom of the T would be your mini valve and cap. When you're ready to drain, pull the cap, add your drain fitting settup, twist the knob and woosh(!) out comes your coolant. Reverse that order and refill.









But you want the rotary T with the G1/4 thread on one end of the straight to mount to your pump, a fitting on the opposite side and a male/male adapter to connect your mini valve to, but you'd have to have 2 of them if you went with a hard pipe T fitting.









~Ceadder


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The Rotary T comes off the Pump. Flows straight through to your loop. The bottom of the T would be your mini valve and cap. When you're ready to drain, pull the cap, add your drain fitting settup, twist the knob and woosh(!) out comes your coolant. Reverse that order and refill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you want the rotary T with the G1/4 thread on one end of the straight to mount to your pump, a fitting on the opposite side and a male/male adapter to connect your mini valve to, but you'd have to have 2 of them if you went with a hard pipe T fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes im using rigid tubing.

Sorry im not understanding, one side of the thing u link goes to my pump and the other goes to the my rigid tubing thats coming out of my gpu?

[Gpu][]====[] [pump]


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Which fans do you have on your alphacool rad? 140mm fans are famous for their low static pressure. You can't really just compare the square millimetres when fans with very different characteristics are used.
> If you'd ask me the GTX would perform better, by how much? no idea. Definitely depends on how silent you want the build to be as well.


Well I am using the PH-F140SP CASE FANPH-F140SP CASE FAN and I also believe that the Gtx should perform better with the ap 15s but I wanted to do a sanity check and your input before I order it....


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I remember hearing that. What about this? It's connect to the res, but that's technically the pump right?


Steezy, which pass thru fittings are those?

Thanks


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Steezy, which pass thru fittings are those?
> 
> Thanks


I use these
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-shiny-silver-finish.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The Rotary T comes off the Pump. Flows straight through to your loop. The bottom of the T would be your mini valve and cap. When you're ready to drain, pull the cap, add your drain fitting settup, twist the knob and woosh(!) out comes your coolant. Reverse that order and refill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you want the rotary T with the G1/4 thread on one end of the straight to mount to your pump, a fitting on the opposite side and a male/male adapter to connect your mini valve to, but you'd have to have 2 of them if you went with a hard pipe T fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes im using rigid tubing.
> 
> Sorry im not understanding, one side of the thing u link goes to my pump and the other goes to the my rigid tubing thats coming out of my gpu?
> 
> [Gpu][]====[] [pump]
Click to expand...

In a manner of speaking.

[GPU]==[Ball "T" Valve]==[Threaded end goes to Pump Outlet]

T = Down outlet from pump and GPU is the other end of the straight in the T fitting.

Did that clear things up?









~Ceadder :


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I use these
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-shiny-silver-finish.html


Thanks. I just added it to my wish list.

One more question to any that can help. Does any company sell colored reservoirs? I've only seen folks with the clear tubes.

Thanks


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks. I just added it to my wish list.
> 
> One more question to any that can help. Does any company sell colored reservoirs? I've only seen folks with the clear tubes.
> 
> Thanks


PPCs res colours available from all brands











Monsoon have a large range of reservoir tube colors to select from and even have some semi frosted finishes.


----------



## Bogga

First try for me with water cooling


----------



## PedroC1999

Most recent photo of The Lucky Eight


----------



## artemis2307

My first attemp with water (although AIO), I've gone for GPU
Unless you're going with a K oc to the max, cpu IMO is not a heat concern, where as my 290 will get to 95C on stock air


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *artemis2307*
> 
> My first attemp with water (although AIO), I've gone for GPU
> Unless you're going with a K oc to the max, cpu IMO is not a heat concern, where as my 290 will get to 95C on stock air
> 
> 
> Spoiler: images


Yep, I'm so glad I got my 290 underwater.. I've got a full-cover block so I'm quite curious what your VRM-temps are?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well I am using the PH-F140SP CASE FANPH-F140SP CASE FAN and I also believe that the Gtx should perform better with the ap 15s but I wanted to do a sanity check and your input before I order it....


I would keep the 420 and the 140 mm fans. Those phanteks fans do the job. The 420 will occupy less space in your case since it is shorter that the 480 mm. I did the same thing but I went from 480 to 420 in the Enthoo Primo case for space reasons and easy of fill and did not notice any difference in performance going from 480 +GTS to 420 + Phanteks.


----------



## gdubc

Anybody know of any new water friendly cases coming soon? I'd love the new Hex Gear case but can't drop $600 on a case right now, so I'm about to get a Primo as it seems to be the best bang for the buck.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Anybody know of any new water friendly cases coming soon? I'd love the new Hex Gear case but can't drop $600 on a case right now, so I'm about to get a Primo as it seems to be the best bang for the buck.


There's the Parvum R1.0, L1.0, M1.0 that's new (well, new on their site, they've offered them as special order for a while now) and the last two will handle an ATX/EATX motherboard. Probably a bunch of other designs out there too, just haven't paid too much attention to a lot of the new release market myself.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I would keep the 420 and the 140 mm fans. Those phanteks fans do the job. The 420 will occupy less space in your case since it is shorter that the 480 mm. I did the same thing but I went from 480 to 420 in the Enthoo Primo case for space reasons and easy of fill and did not notice any difference in performance going from 480 +GTS to 420 + Phanteks.


I love that primo case but it was to damn big .... I went with the thermaltake core P5 bc i just really think it looks amazing and never had an open air case before .... Right now i took apart the primo and used the 420mm rad in P/P with some skylake parts and soft tubing just to get an idea of how my bends would be like when i move in my X99 motherboard .... I can honestly say that the rad is doing a nice job of keeping the 6700k cool but with haswell e its another story ... with the primo i was running 1020 mm of rad space and my temps where really high... 5820k @ 4.6 with 1.30 Vcore i was getting high 70s low 80s in OCCT ... When i took apart the cpu cooler it had a lot of gunk and weird stuff on it which i think that may be the reason for the high temps .... i will try to post some pics of it when i clean it up tonight bc there is no way that was going into the build with that stuff....


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Anybody know of any new water friendly cases coming soon? I'd love the new Hex Gear case but can't drop $600 on a case right now, so I'm about to get a Primo as it seems to be the best bang for the buck.
> 
> 
> 
> There's the Parvum R1.0, L1.0, M1.0 that's new (well, new on their site, they've offered them as special order for a while now) and the last two will handle an ATX/EATX motherboard. Probably a bunch of other designs out there too, just haven't paid too much attention to a lot of the new release market myself.
Click to expand...

I like the parvum also, but again, the smaller case would run me almost $400 to my door, at which point I'd rather get another Caselabs. Thanks for the suggestion though


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I like the parvum also, but again, the smaller case would run me almost $400 to my door, at which point I'd rather get another Caselabs. Thanks for the suggestion though


Guessing you were planning some custom work to go with it? Asking because shipping is only 41.50 GBP according to the site to Loveland, CO, and a quick XE.com conversion shows that the M1.0 would convert to $300.65 USD when shipped - or are you using the price of the L1.0, as such would be closer to $400 USD? ^_^


----------



## gdubc

Hmmm, I got $370 before and updated my converter and got $346, but now I see I had two tone white/siver selected and that added to the cost. It was the M1 I had priced, but I kind of want more space than the M1 offers anyhow, and the L1 is definitely in the Mercury S8 price range, so I'll probably end up getting the Primo as its just over the $200 mark.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Hmmm, I got $370 before and updated my converter and got $346, but now I see I had two tone white/siver selected and that added to the cost. It was the M1 I had priced, but I kind of want more space than the M1 offers anyhow, and the L1 is definitely in the Mercury S8 price range, so I'll probably end up getting the Primo as its just over the $200 mark.


Ah right, I totally forgot to remember that some colour selections cost more - I used the default selection, which I think is black/white.

For me, I was considering CaseLabs but with how the Canadian dollar is it's pretty much the same price to get the R1.0 and L1.0 I want as it is a single SMA8. Both Parvum and Caselabs make some rather gorgeous cases though, especially when watercooled!


----------



## gdubc

Haha, ya I love the s8 I got last year, but just adding the pedestal to it this year is running $250, that's why I can't splurge on another one. If they had the 2 tone option on the s8 though, that might just push me over the edge, lol.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Haha, ya I love the s8 I got last year, but just adding the pedestal to it this year is running $250, that's why I can't splurge on another one. If they had the 2 tone option on the s8 though, that might just push me over the edge, lol.


Give it what, another week or so and two tone options will open up? Nope, I lied, it opens up in four days. Hope I didn't push you over the edge









I still have plans to spend a decent amount of money over at CaseLabs, it's just hubby will get his STH10, and HTPC will be upgraded into an S8 over time, but the HTPC will probably be the last one to get a case upgrade.


----------



## gdubc




----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> When was this loop filled? My loop takes about 1 month of top ups to stabilize, depends how good you are at bleeding.


Well, I used to declare myself Lord Bleed. But Ive become more modest. But seriously, I always thought I was very thorough at bleeding. Who knows, I could be totally terrible at it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All soft tube has fluid loss,nothing to be concerned about. If its a new loop then it does take time for the fluid to level off as there is still air being removed even if its not totally visible.


Ok, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This. Soft tubing cannot stop evaporation, which is always hard at work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


TY. Wouldve thought that if its sealed the evap would happen inside the loop, causing condensation, inside the loop, and eventually just returning to the coolant. But I guess its going somewhere. Loop is fairly new so maybe its still fully filling, evening out.


----------



## funfordcobra

What is the deal with Performance PCS? They are charging me .4 lbs for ONE 12 inch PWM extension. Also .5 lbs for a 5 inch led strip?

I heard someone was having this issue before ordering a custom loop. They charged him for 150 lbs of equipment for ONE small custom loop.









My order was for 3 pwm connectors and ONE 5 inch led strip and it came to 5 lbs...

Is this fraud or error?


----------



## inedenimadam

edit

disregard


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> What is the deal with Performance PCS? They are charging me .4 lbs for ONE 12 inch PWM extension. Also .5 lbs for a 5 inch led strip?
> 
> I heard someone was having this issue before ordering a custom loop. They charged him for 150 lbs of equipment for ONE small custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My order was for 3 pwm connectors and ONE 5 inch led strip and it came to 5 lbs...
> 
> Is this fraud or error?


If you feel there's an error, send them and email so they can double check your items, especially any "odd sized" items. I had shipping "discrepancies" with them and this ain't new. I ordered six sticks of Bitspower 1m hard tube and the shipping was very high. Higher then the total cost of the tube







. I looked at the other brands and they had much lower per unit weight and thus had cheaper shipping. It didn't sit well with me and i contacted customer service. After a few emails, she was able to honor the rate for the other brands on the BP tube. The rep said she was going to bring it up w/ management to either fix the other pricing (to match BP shipping rates) or fix the BP shipping rate/weight. I ended up needing more tube and i placed another order. The same rates were still there and before i shot off another email about what was decided, i checked the other brands. They were now priced similar to BP and I decided to let this battle go in their favor







. I paid $20 to ship four rods. I understand the reasoning of the "odd size" aspect, but it didn't explain the cheaper rates for the other brands (I'm sure BP sold more then them). To be on the safe side, i ordered more then i needed (probably a quarter of a meter) and just paid the shipping. I won't have to order more tube if I change my loop in the future. They've always had shipping on the higher side and its something most of us just accept as they're the go-to for the majority of water cooling stuff (after frozencpu.com died). I know a few days or a week ago, some one in the CL club mentioned the outrageous shipping quote fro their case. I actually ordered a brand new STH10 from frozencpu.com almost two years ago and it was a reasonable $35 (CL actually shipped it from their Cali location). I thought about buying a Th10a last year before I got my Tx10 and the shipping was very high which made ordering from CL directly and paying tax about the same. Over all, for small item orders, shipping is reasonable and i do understand sometimes the extra cost are for shipping and handling. My last order was ~ $16 to ship 8 extensions, two usb i/o's, two drive bay adapters, and some connectors. It was the cheapest (FedEx ground) and they typically process your order quick and packaging is very good imho.

Do you mind posting your cart/list? I wanna check this out myself and see what happens. Btw, I don't think we have a rep any more that would help as well. Oh well









On topic: rig shot of bubbles in res/pump #2 and none in #1


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> On topic: rig shot of bubbles in res/pump #2 and none in #1


are you running a dual loop?


----------



## wermad

Single loop, pumps in series (not sequential).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Single loop, pumps in series (not sequential).


What kind of flow are you getting with all those rads? I get 1.21GPM when I have all three of my D5's running at max. Right now I have them lowered them to 100%, 60%, and 50% and I'm getting 0.82GPM. Pretty quiet overall at those speeds. Now I just need to get a different PSU. That 1300 G2 is super loud lol.


----------



## wiretap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> What is the deal with Performance PCS? They are charging me .4 lbs for ONE 12 inch PWM extension. Also .5 lbs for a 5 inch led strip?
> 
> I heard someone was having this issue before ordering a custom loop. They charged him for 150 lbs of equipment for ONE small custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My order was for 3 pwm connectors and ONE 5 inch led strip and it came to 5 lbs...
> 
> Is this fraud or error?


Just give them a call and they'll straighten it out. Usually I try to order a bunch of things from Performance PC's all at once so the shipping is reasonable.. otherwise for small items that I order singles of that don't really break, I have them ship in a padded envelope for like $3. It all depends on who you get on the phone though if they'll do it or not. If they don't do it, I'll just search around on Amazon and get free 2-day Prime shipping.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What kind of flow are you getting with all those rads? I get 1.21GPM when I have all three of my D5's running at max. Right now I have them lowered them to 100%, 60%, and 50% and I'm getting 0.82GPM. Pretty quiet overall at those speeds. Now I just need to get a different PSU. That 1300 G2 is super loud lol.


Don't have a meter (had a koolance one a while ago) but If I run the first or second pump on its own, the flow is still pretty decent. Two pumps helps it push a littler faster. Both pumps are D5 vario (no rpm) and are set to #5. I have about 16 rubber bushings holding a piece of acrylic where both pump assemblies are attached to. Its very quiet once most of the trapped air has worked its way out of the pumps.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't have a meter (had a koolance one a while ago) but If I run the first or second pump on its own, the flow is still pretty decent. Two pumps helps it push a littler faster. Both pumps are D5 vario (no rpm) and are set to #5. I have about 16 rubber bushings holding a piece of acrylic where both pump assemblies are attached to. Its very quiet once most of the trapped air has worked its way out of the pumps.


I just installed a Koolance FM18D. Extremely nice meter.


----------



## wermad

I had this one w/ the separate display:







Right now, I'm running one of those visual flow indicators just for the initial start up and for funs to have in the loop.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> PPCs res colours available from all brands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon have a large range of reservoir tube colors to select from and even have some semi frosted finishes.


Aww man thanks a mill.

Have you used their reservoir modular system or know anyone that has used the modular system? I'm liking this kit, but curious to see if anyone use it for their build.

Thanks again.

Edit: Nevermind, I found a thread on the Monsoon system.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> What is the deal with Performance PCS? They are charging me .4 lbs for ONE 12 inch PWM extension. Also .5 lbs for a 5 inch led strip?
> 
> I heard someone was having this issue before ordering a custom loop. They charged him for 150 lbs of equipment for ONE small custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My order was for 3 pwm connectors and ONE 5 inch led strip and it came to 5 lbs...
> 
> Is this fraud or error?


I ordered one of the Monsoon bending kits (the version without the carry case) ... PPCs reported the weight as 9.5lb and my total cart as 20lbs (the order included 2 x 360 rads too). Fedex reported it as 14.7lbs. When the package arrived, I weighted the bending kit ... less than 2lbs.

BTW - the kit with the case weights less than the kit without ... 9lbs v 9.5 lbs.

I've emailed PPCs about it and they are looking into it.


----------



## shremi

So i wanted to measurre the flow rate of my system and the only thing that was an option was the Aquaero 6 ... browsing through PPCs i stumbled across the Aquacomputer Aquastream Ultimate reading trough the specs it says that it includes some kind of software virtual flow sensor ... It also comes with much more goodies that i will probably use but i just dont know how it compares to other pumps .... Considering the cost for an Aquaero 6 plus the flow sensor adapters i just dont know if its worth the investment .... But i also have a couple of D5s Non PWM which i could not use or a couple of MCP50x which i could use with the Aquaero .... But this pump is starting to intrigue me a lot ...

Do you guys have any input regarding this pumps ????


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> So i wanted to measurre the flow rate of my system and the only thing that was an option was the Aquaero 6 ... browsing through PPCs i stumbled across the Aquacomputer Aquastream Ultimate reading trough the specs it says that it includes some kind of software virtual flow sensor ... It also comes with much more goodies that i will probably use but i just dont know how it compares to other pumps .... Considering the cost for an Aquaero 6 plus the flow sensor adapters i just dont know if its worth the investment .... But i also have a couple of D5s Non PWM which i could not use or a couple of MCP50x which i could use with the Aquaero .... But this pump is starting to intrigue me a lot ...
> 
> Do you guys have any input regarding this pumps ????


I've been using the Koolance FM18D for about 3 days now. Does an awesome job. It's currently $56.99 from ppcs.



http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-ins-fm18d-coolant-flow-meter-with-display.html


----------



## alltheGHz

I just copied my post from "the mod" club and put it here, maybe you guys could help me too.

So I like the OEM nvidia blower style cooler. Alot. I want to keep it at all costs, but unfortunately, temps will be a bit high for what I wanna try and do (FO4, BF4, etc on 2k w/ gm200/gm204).

With that in mind, I saw what you guys where doing but A) it was a bit ghetto (no offense) and B) there wasn't any OEM cooler









Then I saw this



Hell yeah! This looks alright, keeps thermals and noise levels low, keeping the reference cooler. However, why use one of these if I already have a custom loop?

But then, I thought, why stop there? What if I put one of the smaller universal blocks on it?



This fits on every GPU out there, and looks alright.

The trick would be to make sure it would fit underneath the GPU shroud. Cutting a hole at the top wouldn't be a problem (although I would be losing the awesome LED visualizer)

Has anyone tried something like this? Would it work?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> So i wanted to measurre the flow rate of my system and the only thing that was an option was the Aquaero 6 ... browsing through PPCs i stumbled across the Aquacomputer Aquastream Ultimate reading trough the specs it says that it includes some kind of software virtual flow sensor ... It also comes with much more goodies that i will probably use but i just dont know how it compares to other pumps .... Considering the cost for an Aquaero 6 plus the flow sensor adapters i just dont know if its worth the investment .... But i also have a couple of D5s Non PWM which i could not use or a couple of MCP50x which i could use with the Aquaero .... But this pump is starting to intrigue me a lot ...
> 
> Do you guys have any input regarding this pumps ????


You will need to look up the special fitting that are additional for that pump believe they are called eheim 1046 Adapters.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Eheim+1046+adapters


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I just copied my post from "the mod" club and put it here, maybe you guys could help me too.
> 
> So I like the OEM nvidia blower style cooler. Alot. I want to keep it at all costs, but unfortunately, temps will be a bit high for what I wanna try and do (FO4, BF4, etc on 2k w/ gm200/gm204).
> 
> With that in mind, I saw what you guys where doing but A) it was a bit ghetto (no offense) and B) there wasn't any OEM cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I saw this
> 
> 
> 
> Hell yeah! This looks alright, keeps thermals and noise levels low, keeping the reference cooler. However, why use one of these if I already have a custom loop?
> 
> But then, I thought, why stop there? What if I put one of the smaller universal blocks on it?
> 
> 
> 
> This fits on every GPU out there, and looks alright.
> 
> The trick would be to make sure it would fit underneath the GPU shroud. Cutting a hole at the top wouldn't be a problem (although I would be losing the awesome LED visualizer)
> 
> Has anyone tried something like this? Would it work?


Hmmm, I know one guy over in the 970 thread has pulled off putting a universal block on a ASUS 970 Turbo under its shroud. Think it would depend on how much room you have to work with under the shroud.


----------



## Revan654

Case: S8S

Anyone know if I can fit Hardwarelabs SR-2 Multiport in the front Flex bay (240) and attach a Res/pump combo and still have enough clearance? Or should I just got with Hardwarelabs 240GTS?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I just copied my post from "the mod" club and put it here, maybe you guys could help me too.
> 
> So I like the OEM nvidia blower style cooler. Alot. I want to keep it at all costs, but unfortunately, temps will be a bit high for what I wanna try and do (FO4, BF4, etc on 2k w/ gm200/gm204).
> 
> With that in mind, I saw what you guys where doing but A) it was a bit ghetto (no offense) and B) there wasn't any OEM cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I saw this
> 
> Hell yeah! This looks alright, keeps thermals and noise levels low, keeping the reference cooler. However, why use one of these if I already have a custom loop?
> 
> But then, I thought, why stop there? What if I put one of the smaller universal blocks on it?
> 
> This fits on every GPU out there, and looks alright.
> 
> The trick would be to make sure it would fit underneath the GPU shroud. Cutting a hole at the top wouldn't be a problem (although I would be losing the awesome LED visualizer)
> 
> Has anyone tried something like this? Would it work?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, I know one guy over in the 970 thread has pulled off putting a universal block on a ASUS 970 Turbo under its shroud. Think it would depend on how much room you have to work with under the shroud.
Click to expand...

I wasn't too sure what he wanted but now i do. Its been done quite a bit as long as you can fit the universal block and modify the stock cooler to accommodate the block. Turbine coolers are the route to go as you can keep the fan if its on the far end to cool your vrm and vram.
Quote:


>


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Single loop, pumps in series (not sequential).


Pumps in series are sequential. Unless you mean in different parts of the loop?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pumps in series are sequential. *Unless you mean in different parts of the loop?*


Yes:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have some input to my question:
> 
> Noticed that the first pump/res unit is holding full water and if I undo the plug, water pushes out immediately. The second pump/res is holding a pocket of air that I purge but it doesn't change its water level??? Even if I shut off the second pump, the first pump still pushes upwards where as in the past, the water level on the one-pump-loop would always drop as soon as air pressure was relieved when undoing the plug.
> 
> Loop is holding up fantastically and not a single issue with any of the fittings, reservoirs, tops, etc. Barrow stuff. I did triple check everything and made sure the o-rings were not chewed up after re-installing the entire loop after painting the rads (and the entire case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit: loop order; pump/res #1 > mb > cpu > gpu/gpu> 480 > 480 > 480> 480 > pump/res #2 > 480 > 560 > 560 > 480 > pump/res #1...*


My post got buried under the discussion of flows and meters


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I wasn't too sure what he wanted but now i do. Its been done quite a bit as long as you can fit the universal block and modify the stock cooler to accommodate the block. Turbine coolers are the route to go as you can keep the fan if its on the far end to cool your vrm and vram.


Where did you get that picture, and what do you mean by turbine cooler?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, I know one guy over in the 970 thread has pulled off putting a universal block on a ASUS 970 Turbo under its shroud. Think it would depend on how much room you have to work with under the shroud.


Do you happen to remember who that was?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Where did you get that picture, and what do you mean by turbine cooler?
> Do you happen to remember who that was?


He means radial fans rather than axial.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Where did you get that picture, and what do you mean by turbine cooler?
> Do you happen to remember who that was?


Just pulled it off a web search. That's an older setup and mind you the blocks were slightly smaller back then. I know Kpforce1 modded his three Titans (og titans) with the swiftech blocks. That ek thermalsphere is bigger, so I would search further if someone has done it with this block.

Turbine coolers are the one's w/ the fan on the end, and they're also called "blower" style coolers. These have the fan positioned away from the gpu core and that allows you to sneak in the block or aio block. See bnegative's post too.

Quote:


>


http://www.overclock.net/t/1306477/mod-build-log-beginner-force1-sr-2-3-way-sli-titans-xeons-3000w-of-power-lianli-water-and-copper/190#post_19572692

edit:

Just had to show this one too. Epic stuff:
Quote:


>


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Where did you get that picture, and what do you mean by turbine cooler?
> Do you happen to remember who that was?


Give me a bit I got the link saved since I was planning to do the same with my 970 Turbo.

Heres the link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1564888/alphacool-gpx-owners-club-and-information-thread/90_30


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I just copied my post from "the mod" club and put it here, maybe you guys could help me too.
> 
> So I like the OEM nvidia blower style cooler. Alot. I want to keep it at all costs, but unfortunately, temps will be a bit high for what I wanna try and do (FO4, BF4, etc on 2k w/ gm200/gm204).
> 
> With that in mind, I saw what you guys where doing but A) it was a bit ghetto (no offense) and B) there wasn't any OEM cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I saw this
> 
> Hell yeah! This looks alright, keeps thermals and noise levels low, keeping the reference cooler. However, why use one of these if I already have a custom loop?
> 
> But then, I thought, why stop there? What if I put one of the smaller universal blocks on it?
> 
> This fits on every GPU out there, and looks alright.
> 
> The trick would be to make sure it would fit underneath the GPU shroud. Cutting a hole at the top wouldn't be a problem (although I would be losing the awesome LED visualizer)
> 
> Has anyone tried something like this? Would it work?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, I know one guy over in the 970 thread has pulled off putting a universal block on a ASUS 970 Turbo under its shroud. Think it would depend on how much room you have to work with under the shroud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wasn't too sure what he wanted but now i do. Its been done quite a bit as long as you can fit the universal block and modify the stock cooler to accommodate the block. Turbine coolers are the route to go as you can keep the fan if its on the far end to cool your vrm and vram.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Ah! Looks familiar!


The good olde' days of the GTX580 with a CLC cooler! Good stuff! Maxed at 52C! To contrast today...my H60 modded CLC with a 240 rad cools my 970 to a max of 38C depending on ambient.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I just copied my post from "the mod" club and put it here, maybe you guys could help me too.
> 
> So I like the OEM nvidia blower style cooler. Alot. I want to keep it at all costs, but unfortunately, temps will be a bit high for what I wanna try and do (FO4, BF4, etc on 2k w/ gm200/gm204).
> 
> With that in mind, I saw what you guys where doing but A) it was a bit ghetto (no offense) and B) there wasn't any OEM cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I saw this
> 
> 
> 
> Hell yeah! This looks alright, keeps thermals and noise levels low, keeping the reference cooler. However, why use one of these if I already have a custom loop?
> 
> But then, I thought, why stop there? What if I put one of the smaller universal blocks on it?
> 
> 
> 
> This fits on every GPU out there, and looks alright.
> 
> The trick would be to make sure it would fit underneath the GPU shroud. Cutting a hole at the top wouldn't be a problem (although I would be losing the awesome LED visualizer)
> 
> Has anyone tried something like this? Would it work?


You would also need heat sinks for the VRM and the RAM . I did it on a AMD card its a pain in the wa zuu and by the time your done better off with the full block. Good luck


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I just copied my post from "the mod" club and put it here, maybe you guys could help me too.
> 
> So I like the OEM nvidia blower style cooler. Alot. I want to keep it at all costs, but unfortunately, temps will be a bit high for what I wanna try and do (FO4, BF4, etc on 2k w/ gm200/gm204).
> 
> With that in mind, I saw what you guys where doing but A) it was a bit ghetto (no offense) and B) there wasn't any OEM cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This fits on every GPU out there, and looks alright.
> 
> The trick would be to make sure it would fit underneath the GPU shroud. Cutting a hole at the top wouldn't be a problem (although I would be losing the awesome LED visualizer)
> 
> Has anyone tried something like this? Would it work?






works for the turbo as the fan is at the end of the card, not like Ref cards where sometimes it sits on the board

with the alphacool block its actually a full hybrid in my view as it does blow air down heatsink which soak up heat from the whole board. But also in theory the waterblock soaks up heat from the sink aswell.
reason why i went this way and not just a waterblock


----------



## Ithanul

Darn, no wonder why my temps been a bit higher with the Tis. One of my eLoops has stop spinning. What the heck, it not even that old. Hope it just a dead fan header otherwise I'm going to be bit piss....they not cheap fans.

Darn it, just test a spare eLoop on it. It spinned. So I got a dead fan. Its alive, seems the wire harness is acting up.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Darn, no wonder why my temps been a bit higher with the Tis. One of my eLoops has stop spinning. What the heck, it not even that old. Hope it just a dead fan header otherwise I'm going to be bit piss....they not cheap fans.
> 
> Darn it, just test a spare eLoop on it. It spinned. So I got a dead fan.


Does it still spin freely, or has the bearing seized?

If its still free, I would check all the connections both on the connector side as the ones on the fan, maybe one of the pins got lose, or a solder joint on the fan broke. Unlikely, but might be worth checking.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Does it still spin freely, or has the bearing seized?
> 
> If its still free, I would check all the connections both on the connector side as the ones on the fan, maybe one of the pins got lose, or a solder joint on the fan broke. Unlikely, but might be worth checking.


It spins, I got it back to working. Its either that or the wire harness is crapping out. Need to get around to making my own harness since I plan to put 3 more eLoops onto the rad for push/pull.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You would also need heat sinks for the VRM and the RAM . I did it on a AMD card its a pain in the wa zuu and by the time your done better off with the full block. Good luck


Yes, the fan on the gpu shroud would cool the VRMs and anything else.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just pulled it off a web search. That's an older setup and mind you the blocks were slightly smaller back then. I know Kpforce1 modded his three Titans (og titans) with the swiftech blocks. That ek thermalsphere is bigger, so I would search further if someone has done it with this block.
> 
> Turbine coolers are the one's w/ the fan on the end, and they're also called "blower" style coolers. These have the fan positioned away from the gpu core and that allows you to sneak in the block or aio block. See bnegative's post too.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1306477/mod-build-log-beginner-force1-sr-2-3-way-sli-titans-xeons-3000w-of-power-lianli-water-and-copper/190#post_19572692
> 
> edit:
> 
> Just had to show this one too. Epic stuff:


Yes this is exactly what I was looking to do. Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He means radial fans rather than axial.


ah I see. Thank you for the clarification.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Give me a bit I got the link saved since I was planning to do the same with my 970 Turbo.
> 
> Heres the link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1564888/alphacool-gpx-owners-club-and-information-thread/90_30


Yes this looks good but do you think the massive heatsink will fit under the shroud?


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Yes, the fan on the gpu shroud would cool the VRMs and anything else.
> Yes this is exactly what I was looking to do. Thank you!
> ah I see. Thank you for the clarification.
> Yes this looks good but do you think the massive heatsink will fit under the shroud?


it should, i think off the top of my head max height of sink is 15mm while shroud is 22mm


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> It spins, I got it back to working. Its either that or the wire harness is crapping out. Need to get around to making my own harness since I plan to put 3 more eLoops onto the rad for push/pull.


Mind you that the eLoops make significantly more noise when used in pull. You're probably better off using other fans in pull, of you have to make sure there's plenty of distance between the blades and your rad by use of a thick spacer of some kind.

see here a post in another thread with vid:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have B12-3's and there is a markedly increased drone when using them in push pull on my rads. Its not the blades touching anything, its just a bad air rush noise problem that I assume must be related to the blade shape or the fully enclosed single piece design.
> 
> Edit: I made a quick video in an attempt to illustrate the problem. The sound is terrible but if you turn it right up you should be able to hear the difference. Its more noticeable in person. This as at full 12V of course.
> Started with 2 fans in push only running, and a pull fan unplugged. When the pull fan is plugged in you can hear the drone start.
> 
> Edit; tried that again holding the camera closer and turning the pull fan on and off a couple times so its easier to hear


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Mind you that the eLoops make significantly more noise when used in pull. You're probably better off using other fans in pull, of you have to make sure there's plenty of distance between the blades and your rad by use of a thick spacer of some kind.


I already have three in pull on the rad. That don't make enough noisy to me. All I hear is air. I actually hear my AP-19s in my folder over my main rig's eLoops.

To me most fans are not noisy unless they hauling major butt on speed. And I leave the side panels of my cases off.

I leave my eLoops and AP-19s running at their max speeds. They don't make enough noisy to bother me.

Darn A/C or Dehumidifier when on pretty much drowns out my computers' fans.


----------



## jodybdesigns

I took a shot at sewing for the first time in my life. Kinda botched up, but I love it.

2 paper clips and some string makes it sooooo easy to do this. Kinda like lacing shoes. I will get some thicker string as I used regular sewing string to do this. Thicker string will make it neater.


----------



## snef




----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Plain and simple, I love it. The cable color combination is super, the color choices are great and the overall look is killer. It's dark, but has enough shine (to me) so nothing is lost when viewing the pictures. A definite














s up.

What color are you going to use for the coolant?


----------



## Revan654

How many Radiators and Waterblocks can Swiftech Pump 655 With Speed Control support?

Starting to to create a loop. I just want to know how many radiators and waterblocks this pump will support until it runs into any issues?

Hardware:

2x Hardwarelabs GTS360
1x XSPC Raystorm Pro (Intel)
1x EK waterblock for MSI 980 Ti 6G
1x Waterblock for my Fan controller

I was thinking about adding atlease one 240 in the front since I have room. If I could get away with it a small 120 (one or two) in the back.

Note I'm trying to go quiet, all the ways will be running below 900 RPM.

I know that may a bit overkill, but I got the room and money to buy the parts.

----

Also I assume Harddrive blocks for Mechanical Harddrives are a giant waste of money and not worth it?


----------



## wermad

lol, you again. check out my build. it ran one d5 vario @ #5: 6x monsta 480s, 2x monsta 560s, 2x gpu blocks (295x2 blocks), cpu block, mb block/pipe. You're fine


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> How many Radiators and Waterblocks can Swiftech Pump 655 With Speed Control support?
> 
> Starting to to create a loop. I just want to know how many radiators and waterblocks this pump will support until it runs into any issues?
> 
> Hardware:
> 
> 2x Hardwarelabs GTS360
> 1x XSPC Raystorm Pro (Intel)
> 1x EK waterblock for MSI 980 Ti 6G
> 1x Waterblock for my Fan controller
> 
> I was thinking about adding atlease one 240 in the front since I have room. If I could get away with it a small 120 (one or two) in the back.
> 
> Note I'm trying to go quiet, all the ways will be running below 900 RPM.
> 
> I know that may a bit overkill, but I got the room and money to buy the parts.
> 
> ----
> 
> Also I assume Harddrive blocks for Mechanical Harddrives are a giant waste of money and not worth it?


I'm running my MCP50X literally on 2% (2700rpm) with my setup. I would say you are fine. Don't underestimate a good pump.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Plain and simple, I love it. The cable color combination is super, the color choices are great and the overall look is killer. It's dark, but has enough shine (to me) so nothing is lost when viewing the pictures. A definite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> s up.
> 
> What color are you going to use for the coolant?


Reminds me of my cables and colors. But of course no surprise you r build looks better. Makes me think getting my case either all black or just the outside black might need to be done soon. Wish I had a way to get graphics done on my back plate but haven't found anyone yet to do this.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I'm running my MCP50X literally on 2% (2700rpm) with my setup. I would say you are fine. Don't underestimate a good pump.


ok Thanks.


----------



## snef

Thanks a lot guys

I will try with Aurora 2 blue

if its don't work we will change it to custom blue


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> I'm running my MCP50X literally on *2% (2700rpm)* with my setup. I would say you are fine. Don't underestimate a good pump.


Damn, that pump spins fast @ 135,000 rpm's...







. Turbo speeds


----------



## wiretap

I hope it has dual ball bearings cooled by liquid nitrogen.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> A turbocharger uses an engine's wasted exhaust gas to drive a turbine wheel at speeds up to 280,000 rpm.


https://garrett.honeywell.com/products/how-a-turbo-works/

Needs noss as well


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> So i wanted to measurre the flow rate of my system and the only thing that was an option was the Aquaero 6 ... browsing through PPCs i stumbled across the Aquacomputer Aquastream Ultimate reading trough the specs it says that it includes some kind of software virtual flow sensor ... It also comes with much more goodies that i will probably use but i just dont know how it compares to other pumps .... Considering the cost for an Aquaero 6 plus the flow sensor adapters i just dont know if its worth the investment .... But i also have a couple of D5s Non PWM which i could not use or a couple of MCP50x which i could use with the Aquaero .... But this pump is starting to intrigue me a lot ...
> 
> Do you guys have any input regarding this pumps ????


I have no idea about the performance of the Eheim pump, although the numbers seem OK. Aesthetically, I dislike the red housing, but that's just me. As far as measuring and monitoring abilities, Aquacomputer has proved its mettle with the Aquaero, so the pump will probably deliver on that functionality, but you need to be aware that activating it will cost extra on top of the already steep price of the pump itself.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's amazing!! How did you mod the mobo heatsinks?


----------



## snef

Thanks, printed stickers


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, that pump spins fast @ 135,000 rpm's...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Turbo speeds


Lol that PWM tho. My boss used to ask "why don't I just ride my computer to work?" Might just try it out


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I just copied my post from "the mod" club and put it here, maybe you guys could help me too.
> 
> So I like the OEM nvidia blower style cooler. Alot. I want to keep it at all costs, but unfortunately, temps will be a bit high for what I wanna try and do (FO4, BF4, etc on 2k w/ gm200/gm204).
> 
> With that in mind, I saw what you guys where doing but A) it was a bit ghetto (no offense) and B) there wasn't any OEM cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I saw this
> 
> snip
> 
> Hell yeah! This looks alright, keeps thermals and noise levels low, keeping the reference cooler. However, why use one of these if I already have a custom loop?
> 
> But then, I thought, why stop there? What if I put one of the smaller universal blocks on it?
> 
> snip
> 
> This fits on every GPU out there, and looks alright.
> 
> The trick would be to make sure it would fit underneath the GPU shroud. Cutting a hole at the top wouldn't be a problem (although I would be losing the awesome LED visualizer)
> 
> Has anyone tried something like this? Would it work?


I did this with a EK supremacy GPU block on my GTX 980. It was a pain to get the block and fittings to fit under the shroud window so I ended up sanding into it but it worked pretty smooth. I was able to keep the LED's in place as well


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Damn, that pump spins fast @ 135,000 rpm's...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Turbo speeds


Yeah, but don't forget about the lag. Boost doesn't kick in until 4000rpm.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> snip


Very nice







. Seeing the Steiner logo made me like it even more!

One off-topic question: do you play MechWarrior Online?


----------



## snef

Thanks
Not really. This build is not for me


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Reminds me of my cables and colors. But of course no surprise you r build looks better. Makes me think getting my case either all black or just the outside black might need to be done soon. Wish I had a way to get graphics done on my back plate but haven't found anyone yet to do this.


Oh cool! I just noticed the color on the backplates and the RAM black-blue-black-blue. Nice touches! I wonder what else I missed previously?


----------



## Trito

Hey.
What are advantages and disadvantages between Supremacy EVO Acetal vs Acetal+Nickel. I assume Nickel means nickel-plated thus less oxidation? Does it matter in terms of performance/maintenance/how long it will last?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Hey.
> What are advantages and disadvantages between Supremacy EVO Acetal vs Acetal+Nickel. I assume Nickel means nickel-plated thus less oxidation? Does it matter in terms of performance/maintenance/how long it will last?


it shouldn't make any performance difference and should maintain about the same. But nickel won't coexist with silver and I believe mayhems blitz cleaner will eat the stuff right off. I prefer all copper personally


----------



## Faster_is_better

@wermad Did your 2nd pump/res clear up yet? Maybe it just needs some time for the bubbles to settle through it. Also when you were bleeding that res, don't you have to add some water back to the loop or the air will just come back and settle there again?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Lol that PWM tho. My boss used to ask "why don't I just ride my computer to work?" Might just try it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Yeah, but don't forget about the lag. Boost doesn't kick in until 4000rpm.
Click to expand...

Supercharge it to handle the low end and a stonken' big snail for the top end.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> @wermad Did your 2nd pump/res clear up yet? Maybe it just needs some time for the bubbles to settle through it. Also when you were bleeding that res, don't you have to add some water back to the loop or the air will just come back and settle there again?


I let it run pretty much all day on Monday and I spent the whole day yesterday painting (touching up some panels that need a bit more paint). The micro bubbles are still there and tbh, I won't worry about them. I can't use my rig right now as the dp to mini dp adapter is defective and I'm waiting for a new Startech mini dp to dp cable to come in (10'). I'm using the air cooled system right now via hdmi (10') for now. I'll run the pumps again today.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Hey.
> What are advantages and disadvantages between Supremacy EVO Acetal vs Acetal+Nickel. I assume Nickel means nickel-plated thus less oxidation? Does it matter in terms of performance/maintenance/how long it will last?
> 
> 
> 
> it shouldn't make any performance difference and should maintain about the same. But nickel won't coexist with silver and I believe mayhems blitz cleaner will eat the stuff right off. I prefer all copper personally
Click to expand...

Yup no difference between Copper and Nickel other than Aesthetics. Same with tops. No difference in performance.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Res/Tray covers are done!



45mins on the machine.....V 2 hours of rage cutting by hand.....


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res/Tray covers are done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 45mins on the machine.....V 2 hours of rage cutting by hand.....


And worth every second of it.
Looks fantastic!


----------



## wermad

Finished for now:


----------



## Ceadderman

A dual system with Server Rack too. Edit: just noticed it's your Radiator pedestal. From the back it looked like you had sever plate covers. But when I looked at the Radiator pics I noticed the plates. Oops.









You should never be worried about speed ever again.









~Ceadder


----------



## wiretap

haha damn, need a pallet jack to move that thing







Nice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A dual system with Server Rack too. Edit: just noticed it's your Radiator pedestal. From the back it looked like you had sever plate covers. But when I looked at the Radiator pics I noticed the plates. Oops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should never be worried about speed ever again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Actually those are the power supply's. I had to extend that chamber as the switch to three units was done after the loop was finished. CL does have a server rack with handles. I dont have a need for a server and the second system is for my family and backup (came in super handy these last couple of months). I have some spare room in the second system chamber I may do a nas. All the water cooling overkill (miss you Lem and Philthy







) is for my gaming rig. I wouldn't buy this case in this configuration brand new tbh. But I got such a sweet deal on it, I couldn't say no







. I did spend about a Ben on getting it rattle can painted to matte white and matte black two-tone.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> haha damn, need a pallet jack to move that thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice.


Lol, yeah i get that a lot. She's on casters so its easy to maneuver. You have to plan accordingly as its very heavy to lift once full. I broke down the whole thing just recently to respray it from the original gunmetal and silver-white finishes. Nice colors but I really wanted something similar to the factory finishes with my own personal touches.


----------



## wiretap

It's a very nice build, and I'm sure it will serve you well for a very long time. Hopefully you can take it to some shows and win some awards.


----------



## SlushPuppy007

My first water cooling loop, I live in Africa, so a lot of "just make it work" fixes here.

I tried to keep the price as low as possible, made (welded) the external cooler chassis myself, all main parts was ordered from Alpha Cool, the GPU block from EK.

Uder the hood:

3770K @ 4.8GHz @ 1.350 Volts
16 GB Corsair Vengeance RAM @ 1600Mhz
Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming @ GPU = 1552Mhz / Memory = 8GHz


----------



## Jflisk

Nice machine @wermad - Guess you can play pac man with no lag now.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Finished for now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! Lots of real estate! Neat-O piece of work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlushPuppy007*
> 
> My first water cooling loop, I live in Africa, so a lot of "just make it work" fixes here.
> 
> I tried to keep the price as low as possible, made (welded) the external cooler chassis myself, all main parts was ordered from Alpha Cool, the GPU block from EK.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Uder the hood:
> 
> 3770K @ 4.8GHz @ 1.350 Volts
> 16 GB Corsair Vengeance RAM @ 1600Mhz
> Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming @ GPU = 1552Mhz / Memory = 8GHz


I like the self-built case/bench for the rads and related. Interesting overall setup! True to OCN I think - "do what you can to make it work."


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlushPuppy007*
> 
> My first water cooling loop, I live in Africa, so a lot of "just make it work" fixes here.
> 
> I tried to keep the price as low as possible, made (welded) the external cooler chassis myself, all main parts was ordered from Alpha Cool, the GPU block from EK.
> 
> Uder the hood:
> 
> 3770K @ 4.8GHz @ 1.350 Volts
> 16 GB Corsair Vengeance RAM @ 1600Mhz
> Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming @ GPU = 1552Mhz / Memory = 8GHz


Nice bit of ingenuity, thanks for sharing. I have a 3770K/980Ti rig myself, but on air, still hangs in there.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Nice machine @wermad - Guess you can play pac man with no lag now.


Can it run Angry Birds? Yes, yes it can







. I'm missing a few cables here and there so I have yet to try my new cpu/mb. I'm currently at 4k but seriously thinking of jumping on 5x1 eyefinity 1440.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Wow! Lots of real estate! Neat-O piece of work.


Thanks! It took a lot of work to paint this thing and about 30 cans of rattle but I'm very happy with the outcome. The loop has been flawless and it has exceeded my expectations. It took in about 2 and 1/4 gallons of distilled.


----------



## snef




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love it snef. Although that T off the pump leaves me a little cold. But that's due to the limited space in the case and to be expected.









You musta been cold though. That jacket got more airplay than the build.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Iceman2733

Looks killer Snef love the color and the build. Question what is the bottle you are using to fill with? Almost looks like fuel bottle for the nitro RC cars but I am not 100%. Whatever it is looks like a great idea and though vs using a syringe.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Looks killer Snef love the color and the build. Question what is the bottle you are using to fill with? Almost looks like fuel bottle for the nitro RC cars but I am not 100%. Whatever it is looks like a great idea and though vs using a syringe.


I had to use the same thing to fill me EK predator by pushing it through the perforations on the top of the Define S, i bought it from Specialtech who are no longer operating.

Search google or ebay for 90 Degree Angle Liquid Squeeze Bottle, it's a similar thing

Also Koolance liquids come with a bottle like that with just a flexible tube, non right angled, just means you have to buy the liquid also http://koolance.com/liq-702-liquid-coolant-bottle-high-performance-700ml-blue


----------



## snef

I bought it from performance pcs

I think it's filling bottle


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I bought it from performance pcs
> 
> I think it's filling bottle


Is that Aurora??? I am trying to decide to use it for my next build but I heard that it doesn't last very long... What's your thoughts on this??


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Is that Aurora??? I am trying to decide to use it for my next build but I heard that it doesn't last very long... What's your thoughts on this??


Aurora is really just for show. You probably could run it daily but i'm not sure where the little 'particles' would end up


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Looks killer Snef love the color and the build. Question what is the bottle you are using to fill with? Almost looks like fuel bottle for the nitro RC cars but I am not 100%. Whatever it is looks like a great idea and though vs using a syringe.


http://www.amazon.com/Karter-Scientific-Safety-Bottle-Narrow/dp/B005Z4RGQW/


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> Aurora is really just for show. You probably could run it daily but i'm not sure where the little 'particles' would end up


Normally dead zone areas like drain ports or dead zones in radiators, bottom of res in my case. Aurora typically lasts about 5 months or so in my system before losing vibrancy by quiet abit in a fairly simple CPU only loop. Imagine it will differ based on the complexity of the loop. (Note this is how it all works in my specific set up only)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ordered some Demciflex Filters (3 total) for the SMA8.

DEMCiflex Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Custom Filter for CaseLabs 120.4 Flex-Bay
DEMCiflex Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Custom Filter for Quadruple 120mm Radiators x 2

Should be nice. My Fans are starting to look like I smoke weed in my house.









The fan blades have dust buildup on them. I FIgure Ill take the Sma8 to dad's shop and blow it out with the compressor. Possibly Drain the green loop due to discolouration (Which honestly isn't too bad) but might not at the same time since the dust filters just fit over the case. That will be nice. I can put the 2 x quad filters behind the snap sides right up against the fans. Cleaning will be super easy. I didn't realize how much air this thing is sucking in.

TCO


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Is that Aurora??? I am trying to decide to use it for my next build but I heard that it doesn't last very long... What's your thoughts on this??


he will keep it until the effect is gone, he will bring me back the build I will clean and swap the coolant for X1 Dark blue
this little monster take less than a liter of coolant, just take some time

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Normally dead zone areas like drain ports or dead zones in radiators, bottom of res in my case. Aurora typically lasts about 5 months or so in my system before losing vibrancy by quiet abit in a fairly simple CPU only loop. Imagine it will differ based on the complexity of the loop. (Note this is how it all works in my specific set up only)


this is what I saw everywhere about Aurora and Aurora 2 is little bit better but same thing


----------



## Fyrwulf

Well, I'm going to be using an EK-SBAY with two DDCs in serial for my build. I plan to split the loop at the output into a drain port, CPU line, and GPU line. The CPU and GPU lines will feed into dedicated radiators. Since I'm going to be using Aurora booster, I figure I'm going to figure out real quick how easily it drops out of suspension.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Well, I'm going to be using an EK-SBAY with two DDCs in serial for my build. I plan to split the loop at the output into a drain port, CPU line, and GPU line. The CPU and GPU lines will feed into dedicated radiators. Since I'm going to be using Aurora booster, I figure I'm going to figure out real quick how easily it drops out of suspension.


this isnt going to go as well as you think it is.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Well, I'm going to be using an EK-SBAY with two DDCs in serial for my build. I plan to split the loop at the output into a drain port, CPU line, and GPU line. The CPU and GPU lines will feed into dedicated radiators. Since I'm going to be using Aurora booster, I figure I'm going to figure out real quick how easily it drops out of suspension.


It'll be a fun month so make sure you really soak in the beauty, I'm currently cleaning aurora out of my twin d5's and about to do the same with the loop in my profile pic (taken about a month ago?)
I've taken a few stabs at it and since I keep building a less than ideal aurora loop, it keeps dropping out quite quickly









I still say its worth it! If you like tearing apart your loop regularly like me


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> this isnt going to go as well as you think it is.


Agreed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Well, I'm going to be using an EK-SBAY with two DDCs in serial for my build. I plan to split the loop at the output into a drain port, CPU line, and GPU line. The CPU and GPU lines will feed into dedicated radiators. Since I'm going to be using Aurora booster, I figure I'm going to figure out *real quick how easily it drops out of suspension*.


Well said. Because it will fall out quick.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> he will keep it until the effect is gone, he will bring me back the build I will clean and swap the coolant for X1 Dark blue
> this little monster take less than a liter of coolant, just take some time
> this is what I saw everywhere about Aurora and Aurora 2 is little bit better but same thing


Mayhem Sent me a couple bottles of Aurora 2 dated at the end of 2015 that were supposedly the "New" Aurora 2 mix. Still didn't last but 2 months in the S3 loop. Ek 3.2V DDC, Cpu Block, Gpu Block and 1 x 240mm XSPC V3 Radiator. I thought that was a pretty simple loop.









Now I have to drain this thing, and yes Snef, you told me it wouldn't last,







So did Z from the Mayhems Forum, but.. .... it... was.... Free!!

TCO


----------



## ShaunStyle

My new build. Any food for thoughts?? I though it would be cool to keep it clean as possible like on some awesome cube cases out there.
Thanks in advance


----------



## wermad

Wow, very tidy


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaunStyle*
> 
> My new build. Any food for thoughts?? I though it would be cool to keep it clean as possible like on some awesome cube cases out there.
> Thanks in advance


That looks great! Is there a res tucked up in the drive bays, or just the top rad's tubing?
I'm loving those pass though fittings! I'd be interested to see the backside!


----------



## ShaunStyle

Dude your build is insane lol. Talk about overkill on the rads. Why so many?


----------



## ShaunStyle

let me take a quick pic for you


----------



## ShaunStyle




----------



## wermad

luv those phatty 16mm hard tubes







. Is that e22 or bp or someone else for the tube?


----------



## 0ldChicken

thanks for the back shots! I really like that look, are your GPU temps good being in parallel?


----------



## ShaunStyle

all water cooling parts are EK including the tubes







. thanks everyone foe the positive respones, i though i did a good job you never know what others will think


----------



## ShaunStyle

Yeah on Aida64 they stay around 40 degrees
CPU around 50.


----------



## 0ldChicken

I'd say you done well!


----------



## ShaunStyle

the top gpu is like 2 degrees hotter than the bottom one. Also on 3D mark extreme Cpu is 40 degrees max and gpus are 32 degees max. and thanks for the done well


----------



## wermad

You may get a core that's slightly hotter then the others, especially if the hotter one is the one w/ the video output cable connected to it. If you're paranoid about it, you can always remount the block w/ fresh paste and see what happens.


----------



## ShaunStyle

nah im fine with it. I actually ad higher temps when it was in a loop with a 3570k @ 4.4ghz. it was running a xtx240 and a pe240 rad. this build with a 240 and 360pe rad is a lot cooler. cpu was hitting 70 and gpu were hitting 50


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ordered some Demciflex Filters (3 total) for the SMA8.
> 
> DEMCiflex Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Custom Filter for CaseLabs 120.4 Flex-Bay
> DEMCiflex Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Custom Filter for Quadruple 120mm Radiators x 2
> TCO


Did similar 2 or 3 weeks ago. I ordered a custom SMA8 set (ordered slightly wider than stock STH10 set) so I can mount them on the insides of my extended top, side covers and pedestal sides.

Been using them on my 900D and they are great at reducing dust however expect around a 20 to 30% drop (guess) in airflow.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaunStyle*
> 
> the top gpu is like 2 degrees hotter than the bottom one. Also on 3D mark extreme Cpu is 40 degrees max and gpus are 32 degees max. and thanks for the done well


ah that is perfectly acceptable! nice


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A 180* T fitting would be the better way to go. This way the fitting can be rotated out from the system and the coolant can be drained completely outside of the case. It's a bit more than the one you have listed, but well worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the double post folks. I don't normally do this, so hope you'll understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hey i pm'ed u.

Also i got a t block and mini valve, hopefully these will work


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> But not solely the TIM is responsible for 20c Drop.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT:




Maybe he swapped from Crest?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> But not solely the TIM is responsible for 20c Drop.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe he swapped from Crest?
Click to expand...

I'm impressed how well my company's toothpaste held up against the competition.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaunStyle*
> 
> My new build. Any food for thoughts?? I though it would be cool to keep it clean as possible like on some awesome cube cases out there.


Very nice build!


----------



## Fyrwulf

@snef

What's that cool little gizmo you're using to jump the PSU?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> @snef
> 
> What's that cool little gizmo you're using to jump the PSU?


Probably a PSU ATX Dummy Plug, can be caught very cheapily and basically does the job of a paper clip, just more safe.


----------



## BURGER4life

Bitspower released a full cover block for the Matrix 980 Ti if someone's interested.
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=173_268_270_277&products_id=4170
I sure am interested







Anyone knows a supplier in the EU who can import this?


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> @snef
> 
> What's that cool little gizmo you're using to jump the PSU?


little thing but so good to have
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/36_4pin_extension_cable_w_power_on_off_switch_black/


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> @snef
> 
> What's that cool little gizmo you're using to jump the PSU?


Something like this is nice to have. I have them from bitcoin mining and they work well to jump power supplies.

http://www.amazon.com/Annisking-Bitmain-AntMiner-Supply-Bitcoin/dp/B0116E8JV0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BITMAIN-AntMiner-ATX-Power-Supply-Jumper-Switch-for-PSU-and-Bitcoin-Miner-/291663158975?hash=item43e87a9ebf:g:QUkAAOSw7hRWPQ60


----------



## PedroC1999

I just bought a female ATX connector casing and got some wire and made the jumper myself, no button, but I use the rear PSU On/Off switch or that


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I had to use the same thing to fill me EK predator by pushing it through the perforations on the top of the Define S, i bought it from Specialtech who are no longer operating.
> 
> Search google or ebay for 90 Degree Angle Liquid Squeeze Bottle, it's a similar thing
> 
> Also Koolance liquids come with a bottle like that with just a flexible tube, non right angled, just means you have to buy the liquid also http://koolance.com/liq-702-liquid-coolant-bottle-high-performance-700ml-blue


Specialtech is back up and running under the name www.pcmodders.co.uk


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> Specialtech is back up and running under the name www.pcmodders.co.uk


WHAT, REALLY?






























I was so sad when it got shut down


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Bitspower released a full cover block for the Matrix 980 Ti if someone's interested.
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=173_268_270_277&products_id=4170
> I sure am interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone knows a supplier in the EU who can import this?


Try http://www.highflow.nl/


----------



## brazilianloser

New block in. Time for spring cleaning. Adding new block, Hue+ and re-doing probably most of the runs in my system.


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> WHAT, REALLY?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was so sad when it got shut down


Yeah! I was really sad too, but in latest September I saw an article that got taken downlater that said they would start trading again. I've bought a few things from the new site, stock isn't great but they are just starting up again


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> Yeah! I was really sad too, but in latest September I saw an article that got taken downlater that said they would start trading again. I've bought a few things from the new site, stock isn't great but they are just starting up again


And they're postage is cheaper than WCUK, which is why I loved Specialtech.

I only knew of their shutdown last month (Due to my lack, or need, to upgrade WC parts) so this is a huge relief.


----------



## Trito

Slowly picking up water cooling stuff for my loop and I have all the fittings, tubing, cpu block ordered (yeey). Now I'm looking at radiators. I need an x-flow radiator and had already decided on Black Ice Nemesis but I just found that Alphacool have some x-flow offerings as well. So which one and why would you recommend for 6600K inside 250D with two SP120 Quite edition fans.

1) Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 X-Flow
2) Alphacool ST30 240 X-Flow

Both seem to have 16FPI. Alphacool advertises it as "full copper". Nemesis has two lines of fins in one line (not sure how that matters)
What would you recommend guys?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Slowly picking up water cooling stuff for my loop and I have all the fittings, tubing, cpu block ordered (yeey). Now I'm looking at radiators. I need an x-flow radiator and had already decided on Black Ice Nemesis but I just found that Alphacool have some x-flow offerings as well. So which one and why would you recommend for 6600K inside 250D with two SP120 Quite edition fans.
> 
> 1) Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 X-Flow
> 2) Alphacool ST30 240 X-Flow
> 
> Both seem to have 16FPI. Alphacool advertises it as "full copper". Nemesis has two lines of fins in one line (not sure how that matters)
> What would you recommend guys?


"Full copper" is right. It's not really full copper, as the endtanks and tubes are brass alloys.

Assuming the usual ~40% drop in performance going from U-flow to X-flow, it will be very close between the two- especially at higher fan speeds. If they are priced similarly, I would go with the Nemesis GTS myself.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> "Full copper" is right. It's not really full copper, as the endtanks and tubes are brass alloys.
> 
> Assuming the usual ~40% drop in performance going from U-flow to X-flow, it will be very close between the two- especially at higher fan speeds. If they are priced similarly, I would go with the Nemesis GTS myself.


Well that was fast.
But whut? Have never heard about 40% drop in performance from U to X-flow. Is it really that bad?

Nemesis is 2 pound cheaper. Overall why would you go with GTS?


----------



## fast_fate

Check out the reviews posted yesterday and today.
Nemesis 280 GTS and Nemesis 280 GTS X-Flow.
VERY interesting results


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Check out the reviews posted yesterday and today.
> Nemesis 280 GTS and Nemesis 280 GTS X-Flow.
> VERY interesting results


Can you point me in the direction of the said reviews?

Found this video and the guy claims there is up to 1C difference. Not exactly 40%


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Can you point me in the direction of the said reviews?
> 
> Found this video and the guy claims there is up to 1C difference. Not exactly 40%
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I can't link, but I'm sure some one else will share


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I can't link, but I'm sure some one else will share


http://www.xtremerigs.net/


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/


+rep guys. getting gts 240 x-flow. thanks


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> +rep guys. getting gts 240 x-flow. thanks


The GTS is a great radiator. I have the 560 version and love it. It's extremely thin and cools very well.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> The GTS is a great radiator. I have the 560 version and love it. It's extremely thin and cools very well.


Great to hear, just ordered. Now I only need to get D5 pump/res combo and get answer from guys at mayhems how to make pastel in my desired colour. Oh and the drain system, need to get parts for that as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> "Full copper" is right. It's not really full copper, as the endtanks and tubes are brass alloys.
> 
> *Assuming the usual ~40% drop in performance going from U-flow to X-flow*, it will be very close between the two- especially at higher fan speeds. If they are priced similarly, I would go with the Nemesis GTS myself.


Where did you get that from? I have never seen a hit like that in all my years.....

Although....define performance?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Bitspower released a full cover block for the Matrix 980 Ti if someone's interested.
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=173_268_270_277&products_id=4170
> I sure am interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone knows a supplier in the EU who can import this?


Try highflow.nl.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A 180* T fitting would be the better way to go. This way the fitting can be rotated out from the system and the coolant can be drained completely outside of the case. It's a bit more than the one you have listed, but well worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the double post folks. I don't normally do this, so hope you'll understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey i pm'ed u.
> 
> Also i got a t block and mini valve, hopefully these will work
Click to expand...

They will work fine. The T block isn't the best fitting but it will do the job so long as you have male-male adapter fittings to connect the T to the Pump and the Mini Valve to the T.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Where did you get that from? I have never seen a hit like that in all my years.....
> 
> *Although....define performance?*


Boom. Like you said, it can vary depending on the context of performance.

My 40% number was based on what HWLabs told me for their Nemesis GTS X-Flow vs U-Flow models under their testing conditions (which are pretty admittedly different with a 25 ºC delta, for example, and I am not sure if this delta is vs coolant T or ambient T), and also what XSPC had (35-40%) for their own testing of their crossflow vs U-flow rads. They keep flow constant so the advantage of Xflow gets diminished there further. I could have remembered wrong though, as 40% does seem high now that I think about it lol.

I am curious how the X-Flow performed better than the U-Flow model in ER's tests at the same flow rate though. Any idea about this @fast_fate?

Edit: Typo


----------



## wermad

so crossflow is no longer the ugly-redhead-buckedtoothed-freckeled-nappyhair-crosseyed-unwanted step-child of the radiator family?


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> so crossflow is no longer the ugly-redhead-buckedtoothed-freckeled-nappyhair-crosseyed-unwanted step-child of the radiator family?


I guess so.


----------



## psycho84

Some new Hardware







(new Case, new Mainboard and other GPU)

A little bit "Downsizing"


----------



## VSG

Nicely done, Jens


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some new Hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (new Case, new Mainboard and other GPU)
> 
> A little bit "Downsizing"


Love the GREEN....!


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Boom. Like you said, it can vary depending on the context of performance.
> 
> My 40% number was based on what HWLabs told me for their Nemesis GTS X-Flow vs U-Flow models under their testing conditions (which are pretty admittedly different with a 25 ºC delta, for example, and I am not sure if this delta is vs coolant T or ambient T), and also what XSPC had (35-40%) for their own testing of their crossflow vs U-flow rads. They keep flow constant so the advantage of Xflow gets diminished there further. I could have remembered wrong though, as 40% does seem high now that I think about it lol.
> 
> I am curious how the X-Flow performed better than the U-Flow model in ER's tests at the same flow rate though. Any idea about this @fast_fate?
> 
> Edit: Typo


Grrr haha i got the nemisis 360gts, i sure hope xflow wasnt better afterall since ppcs charge a restock fee.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They will work fine. The T block isn't the best fitting but it will do the job so long as you have male-male adapter fittings to connect the T to the Pump and the Mini Valve to the T.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


As in
*pump* -> *tube* -> *m:m adapter* -> *T block* -> *m:m adpater* -> *tube* -> *gpu block* ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some new Hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (new Case, new Mainboard and other GPU)
> 
> A little bit "Downsizing"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Knew it was you when I saw the tubing and color.









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Boom. Like you said, it can vary depending on the context of performance.
> 
> My 40% number was based on what HWLabs told me for their Nemesis GTS X-Flow vs U-Flow models under their testing conditions (which are pretty admittedly different with a 25 ºC delta, for example, and I am not sure if this delta is vs coolant T or ambient T), and also what XSPC had (35-40%) for their own testing of their crossflow vs U-flow rads. They keep flow constant so the advantage of Xflow gets diminished there further. I could have remembered wrong though, as 40% does seem high now that I think about it lol.
> 
> I am curious how the X-Flow performed better than the U-Flow model in ER's tests at the same flow rate though. Any idea about this @fast_fate?
> 
> Edit: Typo
> 
> 
> 
> Grrr haha i got the nemisis 360gts, i sure hope xflow wasnt better afterall since ppcs charge a restock fee.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They will work fine. The T block isn't the best fitting but it will do the job so long as you have male-male adapter fittings to connect the T to the Pump and the Mini Valve to the T.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As in
> *pump* -> *m:m adapter* -> *T block* -> *m:m adpater* -> *tube* -> *gpu block* ?
Click to expand...

Corrected.









~Ceadder


----------



## HoztileManikyn

This is probably the best place to ask this

IDK if this has been done before, but I was thinking of taking the following concept,
and applying it to my water loop, is this a good idea? or should i find an alternative?


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Corrected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thought i had read not to have stuff off the pump, but i think they meant 90°fittings

This is the correct adapter?
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/12mm_dual_connecting_spacer_adapter_male_male_white/


----------



## Ceadderman

^That would work.

When installing a T you want the straightest flow possible from it. A direct 90* flow isn't best for optimal flow. Which is what people are talking about. You can run a 45* or a T without issue because you can push through one side of the T and out the other. The bottom outlet is where the Mini Valve should go.

However you can run a 90* fitting off a pump when space is limited in Cases like a MITX or MATX. But those are cases where it won't allow the space to put a straight or a 45* fitting directly off the pump. 90* fittings will still add a restriction which could lessen the life of a pump, but if that's your only choice it's your only choice.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

So much T talk, might as well call Ceader mr t:



Still getting little bubbles in res #2. gonna give it a good shake to see if that helps but over all, the d5s are quiet. Though there's still some air circulating as you can hear it when they hit the pumps.


----------



## 0ldChicken

@psycho84 loving the intense green and straight GPU runs! Also that reverse form factor is hot


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So much T talk, might as well call Ceader mr t:
> 
> 
> 
> Still getting little bubbles in res #2. gonna give it a good shake to see if that helps but over all, *the d5s* are quiet. Though there's still some air circulating as you can hear it when they hit the pumps.


You do realize we still feel you are a traitor dont you?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Gaiiiis! Halp! I really like the dual DDC S-BAY, but I'm thinking of doing a dual tube res instead after seeing the Steiner (FedCom all the way!) build. I like the concept of the new Alphacool tubes, but the way the pumps are mounted makes them look ghetto. Along the same vein, the Aquacomputer tubes are really executed well (all the G1/4 ports are a real plus), but I would get soaked for all the parts needed to do a monolithic res/pump. I dunno what to do, so any advice is very much welcome.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Gaiiiis! Halp! I really like the dual DDC S-BAY, but I'm thinking of doing a dual tube res instead after seeing the Steiner (FedCom all the way!) build. I like the concept of the new Alphacool tubes, but the way the pumps are mounted makes them look ghetto. Along the same vein, the Aquacomputer tubes are really executed well (all the G1/4 ports are a real plus), but I would get soaked for all the parts needed to do a monolithic res/pump. I dunno what to do, so any advice is very much welcome.


Go with the Tube Res. Much easier to bleed your loop with one over using a Bay Reservoir. Sure it costs more in the end but paying now will alleviate headaches later.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> You do realize we still feel you are a traitor dont you?


It's all about those dress up kits


----------



## SteezyTN

I have a koolance FM18D flow meter. I'm wondering if I should leave it off (unplugged) now that I now I have good flow. Or would leaving it on for a long period of time (months-years) shorten the longitivity of it?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoztileManikyn*
> 
> This is probably the best place to ask this
> 
> IDK if this has been done before, but I was thinking of taking the following concept,
> and applying it to my water loop, is this a good idea? or should i find an alternative?


Just use any of Mayhems X1 UV Coolants.


----------



## DaClownie

Anyone know where you can still get your hands on an EK D5 Original CSQ pump top/res? The new EK D5 tube reservoirs are awful if you're doing rigid tubing... having the tubing go in at weird angles like that and not 45 or 90 degrees between the in and out ports... It just hurts my soul.

I'm still debating going external with a 100mm monsoon reservoir on my air 240 as it is simply too bulky to fit in the case with 2x240mm radiators... if I go the EK CSQ route it works perfect.. or one of those aqualis units... though i know nothing about them other than 100mL or 150mL seems like a TINY reservoir.


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Hey dose anyone know if i can replace the tubes on the LEPA AquaChanger240?
Because it won't reach my CPU from the only spot in the case i can install the radiator.


----------



## wermad

iirc, most aio use 1/4" (or 6mm) id tube. Though this is a sealed unit, you will need to fillup w/ the proper fluid as these systems tend to use aluminum components. Lastly, your warranty is void by cutting the tubes. Have you thought about getting something different (or a different case)? If you need a custom setup, there are some pre-configured kits that are expandable.


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> iirc, most aio use 1/4" (or 6mm) id tube. Though this is a sealed unit, you will need to fillup w/ the proper fluid as these systems tend to use aluminum components. Lastly, your warranty is void by cutting the tubes. Have you thought about getting something different (or a different case)? If you need a custom setup, there are some pre-configured kits that are expandable.


Well, I only asked because i have a brand new water cooler sitting on a table, and no way to use it, so it's ether this or give it away, the warranty is no problem for me,
I was just really looking for a "quick fix" but I suppose i could see if i can return it. Get my money back and get something better. know of any custom kits worth around $80?


----------



## wermad

There are a few, but if you need something that is pretty sure, go with the bigger names. XSPC kits start ~$125 for the basic kits but a $200 budget can get you a well rounded system.

I would hit the reviews of aio's to see if one has longer tubes if you wanna stay with an aio.

Which case do you have? Its seems odd your aio doesn't fit. You can also go w/ a single *thick* radiator if you can't really fit a 240 aio.


----------



## HoztileManikyn

My case is a Thermaltake Core P5 and the plate is about 4in too short.

Also, i was just wanting to put distilled water, with some highlighter ink to make it fluorescent.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoztileManikyn*
> 
> My case is a Thermaltake Core P5 and the plate is about 4in too short


I also have a Core P5 and the rad area is quite far from the CPU block. I have done some measurements for others (check out the Core P5 Owners Thread) and if I remember correctly it is really hard to find an AIO kit for that case. Have you checked out the EK Predator AIO setups yet? Not sure what the tube lengths are on those though, would have to check their website.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Boom. Like you said, it can vary depending on the context of performance.
> 
> My 40% number was based on what HWLabs told me for their Nemesis GTS X-Flow vs U-Flow models under their testing conditions (which are pretty admittedly different with a 25 ºC delta, for example, and I am not sure if this delta is vs coolant T or ambient T), and also what XSPC had (35-40%) for their own testing of their crossflow vs U-flow rads. They keep flow constant so the advantage of Xflow gets diminished there further. I could have remembered wrong though, as 40% does seem high now that I think about it lol.
> 
> I am curious how the X-Flow performed better than the U-Flow model in ER's tests at the same flow rate though. Any idea about this @fast_fate?
> 
> Edit: Typo


In this particular instance I think it is the lack of restriction and increased flow rate through each tube which benefits the 280 GTS X-Flow.
OR maybe more to the point, that a regular Nemesis 280 GTS is quite restrictive.
If the coolant is in the regular GTS for twice as long, then I believe most of the cooling is done in the first pass with not much extra "power/heat" removed in the second pass. I recall seeing this when I X-Flow'd a UT60 last year.
While in the 280 GTS X-Flow heat is removed from the coolant in all the tubes evenly in it's single pass - end to end.
So yeah, I think time the coolant is in the rad, or in each pass has a big impact on it's potential performance which will vary at different system flow rates.

The almost identical results that are published therefore may not be seen in X-Flow radiators from other manufactures who's regular models may not be so restrictive for a comparison against the NON X-Flow version.
We'll find out son enough I'm sure, whether from you, ER or another source. We have 3 x Alphacool X-Flow rads on the way from Germany as we speak


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoztileManikyn*
> 
> My case is a Thermaltake Core P5 and the plate is about 4in too short.
> 
> Also, i was just wanting to put distilled water, with some highlighter ink to make it fluorescent.


Aio's use special coolants because of the mixed metals they include. Running pure distilled could have a reaction and things could go wrong. Most of these units use aluminum radiators and the pump/block usually includes more aluminum bits. In all, they're really not meant to be modded unless you know how to put them back in a way that's close to factory specs.

With one of the pre-config kits, you can run pure distilled. I've been running distilled only for a few years now and I have not had any issues with both copper and nickel plated components.

i did a quick search and its baffling how many of these coolers don't say what the tube length is. Its funny that the 295x2 stock cooler has some long tube runs









If you can stretch your budget a bit, go with a pre-config kit. the ek predator has a recall, so make sure you've researched this one:

https://www.ekwb.com/news/important-notice-from-ekwb-ek-xlc-predator-240-and-360-r1-0-product-recall/

With a custom loop, you can add uv reactive dye's to get that florescent effect. There are tubes that have uv reactive looks and tube can easily be swapped in a pre-config kit.


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Aio's use special coolants because of the mixed metals they include. Running pure distilled could have a reaction and things could go wrong. Most of these units use aluminum radiators and the pump/block usually includes more aluminum bits. In all, they're really not meant to be modded unless you know how to put them back in a way that's close to factory specs.
> 
> With one of the pre-config kits, you can run pure distilled. I've been running distilled only for a few years now and I have not had any issues with both copper and nickel plated components.
> 
> i did a quick search and its baffling how many of these coolers don't say what the tube length is. Its funny that the 295x2 stock cooler has some long tube runs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can stretch your budget a bit, go with a pre-config kit. the ek predator has a recall, so make sure you've researched this one:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/important-notice-from-ekwb-ek-xlc-predator-240-and-360-r1-0-product-recall/
> 
> With a custom loop, you can add uv reactive dye's to get that florescent effect. There are tubes that have uv reactive looks and tube can easily be swapped in a pre-config kit.


What about isopropyl Alcohol? could that be used as an effective coolant? it's non corrosive, with the fact it's already a bio-cide, and it's completely non conductive, so if it leaks, you just wait about 5 min for it to evaporate. not to mention the fact it can get VERY cold
but i will go ahead and spring for a pre config kit.


----------



## wermad

I'm sure some members know, so it's best to have one them answer the question.

The pre-configured kits are a great way to get started and you can add or swap components much easier. Just be warned it can get expensive







.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoztileManikyn*
> 
> What about isopropyl Alcohol?


Never use isopropyl alcohol as it can attack various plastics and rubbers.

For many AIOs a suitable replacement fluid would be a glycol based coolant eg a diluted auto coolant etc.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm sure some members know, so it's best to have one them answer the question.
> 
> The pre-configured kits are a great way to get started and you can add or swap components much easier. Just be warned it can get expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


lol, but the costs over time drop after you get the CaseLabs case


----------



## Kostadinos

Almost Done


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Almost Done


Clean


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have a koolance FM18D flow meter. I'm wondering if I should leave it off (unplugged) now that I now I have good flow. Or would leaving it on for a long period of time (months-years) shorten the longitivity of it?


Point of having it if you don't use it all of the time.

TCO


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have a koolance FM18D flow meter. I'm wondering if I should leave it off (unplugged) now that I now I have good flow. Or would leaving it on for a long period of time (months-years) shorten the longitivity of it?


Just leave it plugged in as it's always spinning while water is flowing. The part that spins is the part that would wear out first.


----------



## stin0

Nice, a watercooling club & picture gallery topic.
Never noticed this topic so it's about time to drop my main gaming rig with custom waterloop









It's not the most beautiful or breathtaking loop, its fairly simple and aimed towards low temps & complete silence.
Moreover its built for simplicity so it has soft tubing.

Plans:
1. Add the motherboard VRMs to the loop
2. Cover the inside of the case with padding for even more sound reduction.
3. Replace the 200mm Phanteks intake fan with a Noctua 200mm fan (when they finally release them... somewhere in the year 2030 hopefully)

4690K delid, Asus Formula VII Z97, 16 GB Kingston HyperX 2400 Mhz


EVGA 980 GTX @ EK full-cover acrylic block.


Phanteks Enthoo Luxe with aditional 1m Phanteks ledstrip


420mm EK Coolstream radiator with 3 Noctua NF-A14 @ 550RPM


EK D5 PWM pump with XSPC Acrylic Reservoir top, mounted on anti-vibration shoggy system.


----------



## Tekgnome

moved to thread


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stin0*
> 
> Plans:
> 1. Add the motherboard VRMs to the loop
> 
> 420mm EK Coolstream radiator with 3 Noctua NF-A14 @ 550RPM


z97 motherboard vrm's dont get hot/warm enough to worry about cooling with anything more than an aluminum heatsink which is still overkill.

someone pooped in the top of your case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekgnome*
> 
> #1. Is there anything wrong with this set up order?
> 
> #2. What is a good (>$120) pump that I can buy that will last a reasonable time, mildly quiet, and provide a good liquid volume movement.
> - I'm running a supper cheap Chinese pump
> 
> Thank you


loop order means nothing except pump must directly follow the res. the res needs to be above the pump for gravity feed. some exceptions to the above the pump thing but not enough exceptions to go into details.


----------



## pc-illiterate

DP


----------



## jvillaveces

My first watercooling loop has been running for most of a year. It's comprised of two Alphacool XT 45 280 radswith Corsair SP140 fans and dual Aquacomputer D5s, cooling a 4790k and 2xGTX980, all monitored and controlled by an Aquaero 6 Pro, When I first put it together, I was getting a delta (ambient air vs loop average) of about 5.5C at idle and 15C at load. These numbers have slowly been creeping up, and now I have 6.5C delta at idle and almost 20C at full load,
I removed the overclock from both my GPUs and my CPU to try to get temps back under control, but they are still slowly but steadily moving up. My CPU, especially now that there's no overclock on it, never goes above 65C, and my GPUs run at 45C/48C under load, which leads me to believe I don't have a problem with my TIM. My reading of the situation is that my problem is not with the heat being put into the loop, but rather with its ability to dissipate it.
My best guess is that I must have some dust accumulation in the rads themselves, decreading their TDP.
It's time to give my loop a full teardown and maintenance, and I got an extra 140 rad to put in it, which I hope will help me bring my temps back within acceptable limits (and also, because why not?). I'm uncomfortable, however, about the fact that I don't KNOW what is making my temps creep up, so I thought I would ask all the more experienced voices in here for suggestions.
Any ideas?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> My first watercooling loop has been running for most of a year. It's comprised of two Alphacool XT 45 280 radswith Corsair SP140 fans and dual Aquacomputer D5s, cooling a 4790k and 2xGTX980, all monitored and controlled by an Aquaero 6 Pro, When I first put it together, I was getting a delta (ambient air vs loop average) of about 5.5C at idle and 15C at load. These numbers have slowly been creeping up, and now I have 6.5C delta at idle and almost 20C at full load,
> I removed the overclock from both my GPUs and my CPU to try to get temps back under control, but they are still slowly but steadily moving up. My CPU, especially now that there's no overclock on it, never goes above 65C, and my GPUs run at 45C/48C under load, which leads me to believe I don't have a problem with my TIM. My reading of the situation is that my problem is not with the heat being put into the loop, but rather with its ability to dissipate it.
> My best guess is that I must have some dust accumulation in the rads themselves, decreading their TDP.
> It's time to give my loop a full teardown and maintenance, and I got an extra 140 rad to put in it, which I hope will help me bring my temps back within acceptable limits (and also, because why not?). I'm uncomfortable, however, about the fact that I don't KNOW what is making my temps creep up, so I thought I would ask all the more experienced voices in here for suggestions.
> Any ideas?


your guess is a good guess. Most likely dust accumulated on rads and fans are degrading the performance. You can be quite shock on the accumulation of dust after some time. Give it a clean up and see how it goes. You might actually pull that off without draining the loop depending on your set up.


----------



## DRKreiger

I would also do a couple comparison tests running the pumps at lower speeds if you can. @ D5's on that system seems to be overkill, taking away from the radiator dwell time. I actually run 5 blocks and 3 radiators, with the D% variable pump at 4 out of 5. gets the best results.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> I would also do a couple comparison tests running the pumps at lower speeds if you can. @ D5's on that system seems to be overkill, taking away from the radiator dwell time. I actually run 5 blocks and 3 radiators, with the D% variable pump at 4 out of 5. gets the best results.


With the loop filled, the pumps do seem to be overkill. I run them at 35%. But, because my front rad has the ports on top, bleeding the loop proved impossible with just one pump, so I put in the second one. It doesn't hurt anything, anyway. I have tried running them both at 100% just to see if the increased flow does anything for my temps. Not really: After BOINCing for a few hours, my loop temp is climbing to 46C. At "normal" flow, it will take 40 to 45 minutes to return to 30C, whereas at 100% on both pumps this time will shrink by one or two minutes, but the peak loop average temperature will be the same. so all I'm doing is using more energy and making way more noise.


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Never use isopropyl alcohol as it can attack various plastics and rubbers.
> 
> For many AIOs a suitable replacement fluid would be a glycol based coolant eg a diluted auto coolant etc.


okay then, distilled water with a kill coil it is.


----------



## timerwin63

So, my 970 block won't fit on my 670 because the 670 uses some non-reference 470uF capacitors that are 3mm taller than the standard 270uF ones. Sooo obviously there's only one solution: Change the caps out for some closer-to-reference8x8mm 330uF caps. I have the hardware. Physical hardware modding is a bit out of my comfort circle, but I think I'm ready. Let's do this. Updates to come in a couple hours.


----------



## wermad

Why not sell it and get compatible one or go with a uni or aio?


----------



## lowfat

PWM D5 w/ polished internals, polished EK pump cover and CSQ 'circles' pump top.





Group photos of all the polished acrylic pieces for the loop.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> PWM D5 w/ polished internals, polished EK pump cover and CSQ 'circles' pump top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Group photos of all the polished acrylic pieces for the loop.


Dude that looks awesome...... can I ask where you got the CPU block from ? I love how it has the EK symbol on it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Dude that looks awesome...... can I ask where you got the CPU block from ? I love how it has the EK symbol on it
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks.

I've had the EK Supreme for a few years. I actually have another one yet. I originally bought 2 of them for a 2P build, that got scrapped.


----------



## pc-illiterate

@Iceman2733 you gotta spoiler tag quoted pictures.


----------



## wermad

Phatty pics low fat


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> PWM D5 w/ polished internals, polished EK pump cover and CSQ 'circles' pump top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Group photos of all the polished acrylic pieces for the loop.






THAT
IS
SO SMEXY!


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why not sell it and get compatible one or go with a uni or aio?


I've already got all the hardware to do the work, my soldering skills are pretty good after all the work I've done through school (hardware engineering) and hobbies, and mostly, I want to see if I can actually do it.

Besides, the 670 is only a back-up card as it stands, alongside my 770 and my 570, so losing it wouldn't be a terrible tragedy.


----------



## rck1984

Began my custom water cooling journey today








Went with a cpu loop only first, going to be adding another 360 rad and a GPU block in the next weeks.


----------



## HoztileManikyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Began my custom water cooling journey today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went with a cpu loop only first, going to be adding another 360 rad and a GPU block in the next weeks.


stop posting porn, this is too smexy


----------



## Jokesterwild

So after a second predator 240 failed on me I decided enough of this nonsense and went back to custom setup









Tempted to watercool my 980Ti was well but the price of blocks turns me off for the time being


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Tempted to watercool my 980Ti was well but the price of blocks turns me off for the time being


I bought 2 of these for less than the price of a single full cover block. Hopefully the last blocks I have to buy. VRMs need a fan but a single 120mm at 1000RPMs keeps the VRMs on two cards plenty cool, and nowhere near as loud as a 3000RPM 80mm found on most cards....not as elegant as a full cover block, but the performance is in the same neighborhood. I have ~12C delta between water and GPU. Easy to install, and highly compatible. Just a thought...


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> My first watercooling loop has been running for most of a year. It's comprised of two Alphacool XT 45 280 radswith Corsair SP140 fans and dual Aquacomputer D5s, cooling a 4790k and 2xGTX980, all monitored and controlled by an Aquaero 6 Pro, When I first put it together, I was getting a delta (ambient air vs loop average) of about 5.5C at idle and 15C at load. These numbers have slowly been creeping up, and now I have 6.5C delta at idle and almost 20C at full load,
> I removed the overclock from both my GPUs and my CPU to try to get temps back under control, but they are still slowly but steadily moving up. My CPU, especially now that there's no overclock on it, never goes above 65C, and my GPUs run at 45C/48C under load, which leads me to believe I don't have a problem with my TIM. My reading of the situation is that my problem is not with the heat being put into the loop, but rather with its ability to dissipate it.
> My best guess is that I must have some dust accumulation in the rads themselves, decreading their TDP.
> It's time to give my loop a full teardown and maintenance, and I got an extra 140 rad to put in it, which I hope will help me bring my temps back within acceptable limits (and also, because why not?). I'm uncomfortable, however, about the fact that I don't KNOW what is making my temps creep up, so I thought I would ask all the more experienced voices in here for suggestions.
> Any ideas?


Yes, clean your rads -


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> My first watercooling loop has been running for most of a year. It's comprised of two Alphacool XT 45 280 radswith Corsair SP140 fans and dual Aquacomputer D5s, cooling a 4790k and 2xGTX980, all monitored and controlled by an Aquaero 6 Pro, When I first put it together, I was getting a delta (ambient air vs loop average) of about 5.5C at idle and 15C at load. These numbers have slowly been creeping up, and now I have 6.5C delta at idle and almost 20C at full load,
> I removed the overclock from both my GPUs and my CPU to try to get temps back under control, but they are still slowly but steadily moving up. My CPU, especially now that there's no overclock on it, never goes above 65C, and my GPUs run at 45C/48C under load, which leads me to believe I don't have a problem with my TIM. My reading of the situation is that my problem is not with the heat being put into the loop, but rather with its ability to dissipate it.
> My best guess is that I must have some dust accumulation in the rads themselves, decreading their TDP.
> It's time to give my loop a full teardown and maintenance, and I got an extra 140 rad to put in it, which I hope will help me bring my temps back within acceptable limits (and also, because why not?). I'm uncomfortable, however, about the fact that I don't KNOW what is making my temps creep up, so I thought I would ask all the more experienced voices in here for suggestions.
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, clean your rads -
Click to expand...

I'm sure that with the right measuring equipment you would notice a subtle decrease in that rad's TDP...







What did you do to it, bury it in the yard? My loop is coming apart tomorrow, I hope my rads aren't quite that dusty


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I'm sure that with the right measuring equipment you would notice a subtle decrease in that rad's TDP...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What did you do to it, bury it in the yard? My loop is coming apart tomorrow, I hope my rads aren't quite that dusty


Due to some odd circumstances and moving a couple times in two years, I was unable to do maintenance. Strangely enough, after it was cleaned and everything put back together, temps were pretty close to how they were with the dirty rad. When a computer sits next to an open window all summer it can take in a LOT of dust. most of my temp problems at the time were due to being in a hot 2nd floor room.

Working 6 days a week 12 hours a day for a while doesn't leave much time at all for cleaning.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Strangely enough, after it was cleaned and everything put back together, temps were pretty close to how they were with the dirty rad.


I'm hoping in my case cleaning the rads will fix the temps, if it doesn't I have no clue what's wrong with my loop


----------



## wermad

That's some dust caked there







. Usually, the edges of my fans are the first to develop a substantial amount of dust caking. The case will get a bit but I usually blast it once a week (I need to bust out my hepa filter).


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Strangely enough, after it was cleaned and everything put back together, temps were pretty close to how they were with the dirty rad.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm hoping in my case cleaning the rads will fix the temps, if it doesn't I have no clue what's wrong with my loop
Click to expand...

Have you checked your blocks? My brother had some temp problems and the reason was blocked cpu block.


----------



## timerwin63

Good news: The block fits! Bad news: I won't be able to test whether or not the card still works until I get an 1150 CPU for my backup rig and toss a loop in that. As it stands, I can't fit any WC gear in my main build, so I guess I'm going to have to wait and see. Or I could pull the i5 out of my rig, but that would take more effort than I really care to put in.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Began my custom water cooling journey today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went with a cpu loop only first, going to be adding another 360 rad and a GPU block in the next weeks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I also began my watercooling adventures in that case by coincidence hehe







Same kit and case! Sometimes i miss the unique design of that case.

Looks great !


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I also began my watercooling adventures in that case by coincidence hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same kit and case! Sometimes i miss the unique design of that case.
> 
> Looks great !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I also began my watercooling adventures in that case by coincidence hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same kit and case! Sometimes i miss the unique design of that case.
> 
> Looks great !












No leaks after a 24 hour leak-test so i assembled my computer again today. I had no space anymore to mount my HDD in the front because of the bottom plate i use in my case, neither in the rear anymore because of the pump/ress. So i mounted it in the 5.25 inch drive bay, next to my fan-controller. To give it some breathing room because of the lack of real airflow there, i made a grill that matches the rest of the case. I think it looks quite good actually! I'm satisfied












In a few weeks, i'm adding another rad and a GPU block, looking forward to that!


----------



## stin0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> In a few weeks, i'm adding another rad and a GPU block, looking forward to that!


Looks great! Why choose an 850w PSU though, you going to run the 980 TI in SLI?

What psu/exetension cables are you using? I got some BitFenix ones myself but they are really sturdy and annoying to organize, even with cable holders.
Im thinking about getting CableMod sleeved cables.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stin0*
> 
> Looks great! Why choose an 850w PSU though, you going to run the 980 TI in SLI?
> 
> What psu/exetension cables are you using? I got some BitFenix ones myself but they are really sturdy and annoying to organize, even with cable holders.
> Im thinking about getting CableMod sleeved cables.


Going to add another 980Ti somewhere in the next weeks/months, correct. Figured i'd play safe and go for a 850W. Besides, the 750W was sold out everywhere. These are Bitfenix extensions as well, They're quite sturdy indeed but with some bending and cable-combs i managed to make them stay in place and look pretty good.


----------



## funfordcobra

I'm soo close to doing hard tube but I think it's pointless since Pascal is maybe a month away and I plan on getting 2 Pascal Titans if they are under 1300 USD.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Yes, clean your rads -


Wow, that looks like a HVAC air filter. How long did it take to get like that?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Wow, that looks like a HVAC air filter. How long did it take to get like that?


A year and a half in total. Part of that time the system was not on 24/7 and the rest it was and next to the aforementioned open window.


----------



## emsj86

That's why I love my little 115v dust buster they make (forget the name). That and a few thin screw drivers allows for fast and easy cleaning without taking anything apart. I usually do it every two weeks and it takes all of ten minutes


----------



## snef

made some test on ram and waterblock


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> A year and a half in total. Part of that time the system was not on 24/7 and the rest it was and next to the aforementioned open window.


I guess I'll have to keep an eye on mine. I've only had water for about 4 months now, so I will peep it in about a month or 2.

How did you go about cleaning it?


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> made some test on ram and waterblock


Awesome Brother


----------



## funfordcobra

I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SI67YRU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02

I think its better an compressed air because there is no condensation. You wouldn't believe how much dust builds up in rads over a few weeks in Colorado. (even with carbon filters)


----------



## ghostrider85

First custom loop done!


----------



## wermad

Never seen the pump hang like that


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Never seen the pump hang like that


Swiftech X2 AIOs. They are pretty neat for an AIO.


----------



## khemist

delete.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> So after a second predator 240 failed on me I decided enough of this nonsense and went back to custom setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tempted to watercool my 980Ti was well but the price of blocks turns me off for the time being


I done the same thing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Swiftech X2 AIOs. They are pretty neat for an AIO.


Kewl


----------



## VSG

Huh that's a see-through top on that MCP30 pump. Perhaps Swiftech is making a standalone clear top for the MCP50X also then (same pump design).


----------



## wermad

Very comprehensive aio (but more like a closed custom loop, much like the predator).


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> made some test on ram and waterblock
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is absolutely gorgeous.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Anybody have any experience with the PrimoChill CTR reservoirs?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Anybody have any experience with the PrimoChill CTR reservoirs?


The D5 version I tryed to use in my sons rig leaked. It simply would not seal to the pump. I swapped it for a standard 240mm CTR res. I have had no issues with the standard.


----------



## DaClownie

Anyone using the new EK D5 res? Are the in and out ports on the bottom at a 45 degree angle from each other? Sucks they went away from the original CSQ style square base where everything faced the same way...

I've also heard people complaining about vibrations with the new EK D5 res, anyone have any experience with that?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's why I love my little 115v dust buster they make (forget the name). That and a few thin screw drivers allows for fast and easy cleaning without taking anything apart. I usually do it every two weeks and it takes all of ten minutes


You're probably thinking DataVac then. Love those things, they're so useful!


----------



## ghostrider85

pulled out a pcie slot off the mobo while trying to reinstall a gpu.




*before the incident:*



*after the incident:*


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> pulled out a pcie slot off the mobo while trying to reinstall a gpu.
> 
> *before the incident:*
> 
> *after the incident:*


I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to happen.... You might want to contact Asus about that. Also, I didn't think that SLI was supported over 4x slots?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to happen.... You might want to contact Asus about that. Also, I didn't think that SLI was supported over 4x slots?


I pulled the 8x slot. The two cards was so close to each other with the backplates on that i can't access the locking tab on the bottom card, can't pull the top card first because the two cards are linked with sli fitting, with me frustrated and everything, i just yanked it off.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Anyone using the new EK D5 res? Are the in and out ports on the bottom at a 45 degree angle from each other? Sucks they went away from the original CSQ style square base where everything faced the same way...
> 
> I've also heard people complaining about vibrations with the new EK D5 res, anyone have any experience with that?


I put a D5 Xres in my new HTPC build, with an XSPC pwm pump. I loved how easy it was to install, and there is very little vibration. The anti-cyclone adapter works perfectly, too. The ports are indeed angled 45 deg apart, with the outlet about 0.5" (didn't measure, just TLAR method) lower than the inlet. My only previous experience with integrated D5 top-reservoirs was Bitspower, and I like the new EK unit a lot more.

EDIT: I mounted mine to the inside of an empty HDD cage. If anything is going to rattle in a build, that would be it. It's dead quiet, even at a 100%


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> The D5 version I tryed to use in my sons rig leaked. It simply would not seal to the pump. I swapped it for a standard 240mm CTR res. I have had no issues with the standard.


That's worrying because the D5 version is precisely what I want. Did you receive any communication from PrimoChill about whether or not the res was defective?


----------



## SMawa

My first custom loop completed, a few bends I'm planning on revisiting but really happy with it all said.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quick tease, just to fill with Mayhems Blood red


----------



## wermad

Its rare to see a build with air on the cpu and water on the gpu(s). Looks very nice and I love the color combo


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its rare to see a build with air on the cpu and water on the gpu(s). Looks very nice and I love the color combo


Thanks , shots are poor but will upload better ones later

Air cooler on cpu was for pure asthetics . nornally use water but cant bet air for a stunning build
With the Asus Turbo id thought id actually Turbo it up







shame i messed up the first card (bottom) with hole cuts


Clear tubing between the gpu, hoping the red coolant looks good between the chain gun fittings.

Lot of cable management to do :/


----------



## rodaduck

thats exactly how i was going to set my cards up with the chain guns , but 3-4 months back i decided to go a different way because i was having issues with the monsoon hardline no i went all brass black chrome plated , i think it looks cool with the chain guns ill find a us in next build for the over 400 dollars in monsoon fittings i still have ...but it looks good


----------



## orbitalwalsh

thanks









I wish they would make a Chain-Gun-Sli link , two rotary's on the end, hardline in the middle and could cover 2-4 slot spacing, would look really clean. Luckily the barrels line up with each other, which im guessing is shear fluke.
Also wishing i didnt got for the 16/10mm 90s now, said they would be flush but still a step in there. would of gone for 13/10mm


----------



## Willius

Added some UV dye to my loop.

Now I need to finish making my custom cabling/cable management and order an Aquaero









Sorry for the potato quality pic hehe


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> 
> Added some UV dye to my loop.
> 
> Now I need to finish making my custom cabling/cable management and order an Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the potato quality pic hehe


Awesome!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Put it together last night. Hope everyone is ready for this









TCO


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Put it together last night. Hope everyone is ready for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it together last night. Hope everyone is ready for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Oh no.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*


YESS!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Oh no.












Oh Yes Mr Wulf. Oh Yes.









TCO


----------



## rsvette12

Awesome TCO cant with to see it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> Awesome TCO cant with to see it


I can't wait to start building it. I've had the case since.... Beginning of January? Have been waiting on a good month before I even assemble it, because you know what happens when you start building and shopping for parts...

TCO


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Making progress...










-Jeffinslaw


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I can't wait to start building it. I've had the case since.... Beginning of January? Have been waiting on a good month before I even assemble it, because you know what happens when you start building and shopping for parts...
> 
> TCO


Yah your bank account goes south lol


----------



## zu903

My first attempt at building a loop.



now ill i need to do is order some para cord


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


wow love it, the green pop a lot


----------



## Ceadderman

@ghostrider85...

Did you try to put the connector back in place?









I would get with ASUS and RMA it as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Where is the Puter?









~Ceadder


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> wow love it, the green pop a lot
Click to expand...

Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Where is the Puter?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

It's hidden behind the green and black spaghetti


----------



## rck1984

Guys,

I recently assembled a custom water cooling loop, did a 24-hour leak-test and everything went totally fine. No leaks or whatsoever.
I have done some reading on the net last couple days and noticed several topics of people that had issues with (90/45) rotary fittings. These rotary fittings seem to be prone to leaking at some point if i have to believe all these stories. Some of these rotary fittings, from different brands seem to be worst than others. I am using an Alphacool rotary myself and i have came across quite a few negative comments about them... I am wondering if i'm better off replacing it with something like a Bitspower or if i should just keep it in there?

How reliable are these Alphacool rotaries? Is it worth getting a Bitpower one and replacing the Alphacool, even though it doesn't leak whatsoever? A bit in a debate here of what to do..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> My first attempt at building a loop.
> 
> 
> 
> now ill i need to do is order some para cord


Very interesting tube runs and not the traditional 90 bends all around. The more I stare at it, the more i luv it!







. And this is your first attempt, I bow to your bending skills. Mined sucked big time and about three years later, I cheated and just threw in a bunch of 90° fittings









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SMawa*
> 
> My first custom loop completed, a few bends I'm planning on revisiting but really happy with it all said.


Very nice glow man







. Let's show it off with bigger pics!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Thanks , shots are poor but will upload better ones later
> 
> Air cooler on cpu was for pure asthetics . nornally use water but cant bet air for a stunning build
> With the Asus Turbo id thought id actually Turbo it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shame i messed up the first card (bottom) with hole cuts
> 
> 
> Clear tubing between the gpu, hoping the red coolant looks good between the chain gun fittings.
> 
> Lot of cable management to do :/


Awesome, great to see things different and looking tidy







. You going with one of those lighted sli bridges?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> 
> thats exactly how i was going to set my cards up with the chain guns , but 3-4 months back i decided to go a different way because i was having issues with the monsoon hardline no i went all brass black chrome plated , i think it looks cool with the chain guns ill find a us in next build for the over 400 dollars in monsoon fittings i still have ...but it looks good


Coming along great dude








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> 
> Added some UV dye to my loop.
> 
> Now I need to finish making my custom cabling/cable management and order an Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the potato quality pic hehe


Very nice! Oh, and you're no the only "patato " picture taking member here too (







).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Put it together last night. Hope everyone is ready for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The Caselabs One strikes again








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Love the green Jeff







. It seems as soon as I abandoned green, more and more builds show up with it and makes me regret letting it go


----------



## zu903

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very interesting tube runs and not the traditional 90 bends all around. The more I stare at it, the more i luv it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And this is your first attempt, I bow to your bending skills. Mined sucked big time and about three years later, I cheated and just threw in a bunch of 90° fittings


Thanks man i started out trying to do the 90 bends and it wasn't coming together like i wanted it to. So i just started free handing a bit. Im happy with most the runs except for the one coming down from the rad to the gpu intake i wanna match it up with the one behind it a little bit better. If microcenter would have sold white 90s i would have some more in there, the two black ones came out of necessity and bad planing


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Love the green Jeff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It seems as soon as I abandoned green, more and more builds show up with it and makes me regret letting it go
Click to expand...

Thanks wermad







I've always wanted to do a green themed build. Green is my favorite color so I figured what better color to use for my custom case build


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The Caselabs One strikes again


You know it!







Im ready Werm









TCO


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> made some test on ram and waterblock
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Geebus! That is HAWT!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> First custom loop done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The LEDs in the GPU blocks (or reflecting off?) make it for me!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SMawa*
> 
> My first custom loop completed, a few bends I'm planning on revisiting but really happy with it all said.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a heckuva good first try! I am on my eleventieth try and can't match that!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Quick tease, just to fill with Mayhems Blood red
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! Interesting rig you have there. Did you mod the GPUs to accept water blocks or is that some sort of hybrid thing going on?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added some UV dye to my loop. Now I need to finish making my custom cabling/cable management and order an Aquaero


I like the look a lot. That glow is killer!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it together last night. Hope everyone is ready for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Hmm shopping for parts...check credit card balances, schedule deliveries when the wife is not home, fudge the checking account balance so she will never know... Did I forget anything?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Lots of stuff going on in that little area. The splash of color among the black looks great. Adding cable combs/holders? Or wiring work all done?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> My first attempt at building a loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now ill i need to do is order some para cord


A BIG fan of less fittings, more tube bends. Nice work!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of stuff going on in that little area. The splash of color among the black looks great. Adding cable combs/holders? Or wiring work all done?
Click to expand...

Yes, wires are done







some of the wires have combs on them but I'm not a huge fan of the perfectly combed wires.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## ivoryg37

I have a small question that I didn't think warrant a new thread so I was hoping someone could help me. Would adding waterproof silicone grease from scuba store to acrylic thread have any ill effects on a waterloop? For some odd reason I have the hardest time screwing on any bitspower tubing to my DDC top upgrade kit. When I purchase it new, it screwed on with ease. However, now it will get stuck trying to spin it on and now matter how much strength I use, It feels like I will crack the reservoir so the only way I could get it on was to grease up the thread. The threads aren't strip but seem dried out or something. It doesn't look that good visually since you can see air bubbles or whatever but will it do anything to my coolant?


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Guys, I need your help as well. I'm doing a mod to my reservoirs and I need something I can seal up the end of a PETG or Acrylic tube with? It will be in the res and coolant will touch it. I was thinking regular clear epoxy? What does the group think?

TIA


----------



## Fyrwulf

You need blue Permatex RTV from any auto parts store.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I recently assembled a custom water cooling loop, did a 24-hour leak-test and everything went totally fine. No leaks or whatsoever.
> I have done some reading on the net last couple days and noticed several topics of people that had issues with (90/45) rotary fittings. These rotary fittings seem to be prone to leaking at some point if i have to believe all these stories. Some of these rotary fittings, from different brands seem to be worst than others. I am using an Alphacool rotary myself and i have came across quite a few negative comments about them... I am wondering if i'm better off replacing it with something like a Bitspower or if i should just keep it in there?
> 
> How reliable are these Alphacool rotaries? Is it worth getting a Bitpower one and replacing the Alphacool, even though it doesn't leak whatsoever? A bit in a debate here of what to do..


Anyone?


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> You need blue Permatex RTV from any auto parts store.


Exactly who where you replying to?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I recently assembled a custom water cooling loop, did a 24-hour leak-test and everything went totally fine. No leaks or whatsoever.
> I have done some reading on the net last couple days and noticed several topics of people that had issues with (90/45) rotary fittings. These rotary fittings seem to be prone to leaking at some point if i have to believe all these stories. Some of these rotary fittings, from different brands seem to be worst than others. I am using an Alphacool rotary myself and i have came across quite a few negative comments about them... I am wondering if i'm better off replacing it with something like a Bitspower or if i should just keep it in there?
> 
> How reliable are these Alphacool rotaries? Is it worth getting a Bitpower one and replacing the Alphacool, even though it doesn't leak whatsoever? A bit in a debate here of what to do..
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone?
Click to expand...

I've had a few alphacool rotaries and they have all leaked to some extent. No experience with BP, but my EK and Barrow rotaries have never leaked once.


----------



## brazilianloser

Been rocking Bitspower adapters, extensions, rotaries, valves... everything but the actual fittings which are Primochills... but yeah never had a leak with any of them before.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Put it together last night. Hope everyone is ready for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Nice weather!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I recently assembled a custom water cooling loop, did a 24-hour leak-test and everything went totally fine. No leaks or whatsoever.
> I have done some reading on the net last couple days and noticed several topics of people that had issues with (90/45) rotary fittings. These rotary fittings seem to be prone to leaking at some point if i have to believe all these stories. Some of these rotary fittings, from different brands seem to be worst than others. I am using an Alphacool rotary myself and i have came across quite a few negative comments about them... I am wondering if i'm better off replacing it with something like a Bitspower or if i should just keep it in there?
> 
> How reliable are these Alphacool rotaries? Is it worth getting a Bitpower one and replacing the Alphacool, even though it doesn't leak whatsoever? A bit in a debate here of what to do..


I've heard stories leaking BP rotaries. If there's any problem with your Alpha rotaries, you should see it right away. I have Enzotech, XSPC, Koolance & BP rotaries in my loop & none of them leaking. No brand is immune to QC issue.


----------



## Fyrwulf

I'm starting to think that tube reservoirs might not be possible in my case. I have two side windows, a front window, and two top radiators, plus the 120.2 fan adapter for the flex bays. I might have to go the bay res route.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> I'm starting to think that tube reservoirs might not be possible in my case. I have two side windows, a front window, and two top radiators, plus the 120.2 fan adapter for the flex bays. I might have to go the bay res route.


So what is the problem? No mounting spot?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> So what is the problem? No mounting spot?


Yeah, I think so. I haven't seen an S8 optioned like mine, so I have no reference picks to see if it is even possible.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> So what is the problem? No mounting spot?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I think so. I haven't seen an S8 optioned like mine, so I have no reference picks to see if it is even possible.
Click to expand...

You couldn't go too tall on the tube res is all. Do you have the extended top? How fat are your planned rads?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You couldn't go too tall on the tube res is all. Do you have the extended top? How fat are your planned rads?


Yeah, I have the 36mm top. My rads are Black Ice Nemesis 360GTXs, so 54mm.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You couldn't go too tall on the tube res is all. Do you have the extended top? How fat are your planned rads?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I have the 36mm top. My rads are Black Ice Nemesis 360GTXs, so 54mm.
Click to expand...

I was in a good spot to throw that together and take some measurements.






That's a 280mm xtc in front flex bays and I have it all the way up so as to mount a fan controller under it and I have the ports down which gives a little more space. There is just enough room above the rad for a slim rad in push with the extended top. (I slipped an aio rad up there at 35mm and it fit without touching the front rad.) It's just over 36mm. I didn't get a pic of the clearance on the res but it's only 45mm or so with the res sitting like it is, so only 38mm or so if you just had plugs in the top and bottom and fittings out the side. There is room to mount a res. off the fans on the flex bay rad though. Also, moving the flex bay rad down will gain you 42mm at each of the expansion bays, so if my 280mm rad was at the bottom I would have about 119mm total.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Yeah, I have the 36mm top. My rads are Black Ice Nemesis 360GTXs, so 54mm.


Make a bracket and mount it to your fans


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I was in a good spot to throw that together and take some measurements.


I had planned on a 250mm tube res initially with the possibility of adding a second if my temps ended up not being where I liked them, so your measurements confirm that it's possible. My problem becomes where to mount them, which is what I am stuck on. I don't have the case available as a reference since it's off being powder coated, but if I remember correctly the standard window takes up almost all the horizontal space above the drive mounts. I _can_ mount them horizontally below the window, however that negates any eye candy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Make a bracket and mount it to your fans


The thing is, I will have three FF5-120 Vardars as intake fans and 12 SP120 Quiet Editions in push/pull. I figure my absolute best case scenario (from a positive pressure perspective) is that I'm moving ~235 CFM out of the case. If I'm restricting my intake, I worry about creating negative pressure. Also, I plan to exclusively use M.2 SSDs, so I need to have the intake streams mixing and creating turbulence above the mobo, which will be sucked up by the rad fans, to negate that extra heat.

Sorry, guys, I know I'm being a pain in the posterior and I'm probably overthinking this, but I'm being a bit of a perfectionist since this is my first build.


----------



## Benjiw

Recently built this, Sorry for the poor pic, need to get some better shots.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Recently built this, Sorry for the poor pic, need to get some better shots.


That looks really cool. I know it's my eyes playing tricks on me, but the color scheme gives the impression of grittiness to the interior. Sorta like Beijing during a smog alert.


----------



## saxovtsmike

Which tubing is better, clear or black ?
I´m still unsure what to use.

ZMT looks stealthier, but the final system could look a bit "boring" as I plan to use clear fluid too
Tygon (the good old non bio stuff) on the other hand is good to work with, would add some shiny accents.



Waterblocks will be a chromed HK3.0 and the Watercool chrome XL block for the 980Ti


----------



## orbitalwalsh

so began the fill and leak test last night/ 5am this morning

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160223_072036.jpg.html

no leaks so far. And does need a top up again, havent really noticed a massive hit with the flow of having two GPX visually but I know there is and you can hear a quieter flow of water.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> Which tubing is better, clear or black ?
> I´m still unsure what to use.


Honestly, when I see ZMT I think of a poorly fitting wetsuit. Go with the clear and maybe drop some dye in for a little pop.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> Which tubing is better, clear or black ?
> I´m still unsure what to use.
> 
> ZMT looks stealthier, but the final system could look a bit "boring" as I plan to use clear fluid too
> Tygon (the good old non bio stuff) on the other hand is good to work with, would add some shiny accents.
> 
> Waterblocks will be a chromed HK3.0 and the Watercool chrome XL block for the 980Ti


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Honestly, when I see ZMT I think of a poorly fitting wetsuit. Go with the clear and maybe drop some dye in for a little pop.


Depending on what preferences are:
If you want long life performance (just refilling once a year) and don't want to bother with leaching plasticizerm which may clog your blocks, then go for ZMT / Norprene. For the optics you can reroute your loop in more pleasant way. With a right mix of fittings (e.g. black chrome) it's possible to create a kind of industrial look.

Here is a sample: http://www.overclock.net/t/1572489/sponsored-modzero-forty-hex-gear-r40-finished-3rd-dec/40


Otherwise the clear tube with some colored coolant.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> You need blue Permatex RTV from any auto parts store.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly who where you replying to?
Click to expand...

I want to know the answer to this too.

The suggestion by Fyrwulf was either to ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I have a small question that I didn't think warrant a new thread so I was hoping someone could help me. Would adding waterproof silicone grease from scuba store to acrylic thread have any ill effects on a waterloop? For some odd reason I have the hardest time screwing on any bitspower tubing to my DDC top upgrade kit. When I purchase it new, it screwed on with ease. However, now it will get stuck trying to spin it on and now matter how much strength I use, It feels like I will crack the reservoir so the only way I could get it on was to grease up the thread. The threads aren't strip but seem dried out or something. It doesn't look that good visually since you can see air bubbles or whatever but will it do anything to my coolant?


... or ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Guys, I need your help as well. I'm doing a mod to my reservoirs and I need something I can seal up the end of a PETG or Acrylic tube with? It will be in the res and coolant will touch it. I was thinking regular clear epoxy? What does the group think?


Anyone (especially Fyrwulf) care to provide an opinion on this?


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Recently built this, Sorry for the poor pic, need to get some better shots.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like the crossover of the tubing going from the pump to the radiator. Its such a simple solution to a routing problem i've been pondering with my proposed loop







! Nice thinking







.


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Depending on what preferences are:
> If you want long life performance (just refilling once a year) and don't want to bother with leaching plasticizerm which may clog your blocks, then go for ZMT / Norprene. For the optics you can reroute your loop in more pleasant way. With a right mix of fittings (e.g. black chrome) it's possible to create a kind of industrial look.
> Otherwise the clear tube with some colored coolant.


HAckjoe´s R40 is awsome, so simple so genius. I really like how he solved the Res/Pump problem.
That´s a think I am really not happy with my loop.
If you have inspiration/ideas of how to rerout the loop in a more pleasant way, i´m really open for options.
I even thought replacing my pwm ddc pump with a new EKWB D5 and its simple mounting mechanism.
To mount the actual DDC in a propper way I´d need a different top and alterativ housing too


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> HAckjoe´s R40 is awsome, so simple so genius. I really like how he solved the Res/Pump problem.
> That´s a think I am really not happy with my loop.
> If you have inspiration/ideas of how to rerout the loop in a more pleasant way, i´m really open for options.
> I even thought replacing my pwm ddc pump with a new EKWB D5 and its simple mounting mechanism.
> To mount the actual DDC in a propper way I´d need a different top and alterativ housing too


The long tubing is very hard to make look well, therefore the hard tubing was invented.

The trick HackJoe did with this Norprene tubing was to have short tube routes in combination with black sparkle fittings. The outer diameter is 19mm, biggest available, for the massive look. So the industrial look is coming up well.

In your case there is still no CPU and GPU blocks, which can be used in order to create this short routes.

Here some similar stuff (the aestethics was not the target







) but you can see the concept = short (matt black) tubing routes with shiny fittings.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







It's partially depending on your willingness to invest. In your case it may requiere to invest into new fittings (some shiny / black sparkle and it's a hell of money







)

Edit: sometimes it's advisable to sit in front of the PC you want to build for a couple of hours, then the ideas start to pop up







(personal experience)


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> In your case there is still no CPU and GPU blocks, which can be used in order to create this short routes.
> 
> Here some similar stuff (the aestethics was not the target
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but you can see the concept = short (matt black) tubing routes with shiny fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's partially depending on your willingness to invest. In your case it may requiere to invest into new fittings (some shiny / black sparkle and it's a hell of money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Edit: sometimes it's advisable to sit in front of the PC you want to build for a couple of hours, then the ideas start to pop up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (personal experience)


What I´m quite happy with is the look of black tubing on black barbs. Changing over to sparkling sliver compression fittings is a thing I really do not want to do (as about the same ammount on angled adapters and fittings are in stock too).
The hell lot of money is the ammount I didn´t want to spend ontop of what I allready did for the skylake update and that´s why I didn´t invest in ~150€ for Bitspower Hardtube fittings, and still use soft tubing.
CPU/GPU will be short straight routing, from the lower mosfet out to cpu in, up to the gpu and from there back to the res.

The long connections are a problem, that´s why I went from the top Mosfet outlet 90° down, as straight as possible and behind the 360 radiator to the 240. I Could add a 90° adapter with 2 Barbs to get the vertical section more straight down, but for the Pump to 360 inlet Connection I really have no more clues.

Yay sitting infront of a case is the way to go, sadly I´ve spent about 20h allready doing that, repositioning parts and playing around with angled adapters and cutting tubing. That´s


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I was in a good spot to throw that together and take some measurements.
> 
> 
> 
> I had planned on a 250mm tube res initially with the possibility of adding a second if my temps ended up not being where I liked them, so your measurements confirm that it's possible. My problem becomes where to mount them, which is what I am stuck on. I don't have the case available as a reference since it's off being powder coated, but if I remember correctly the standard window takes up almost all the horizontal space above the drive mounts. I _can_ mount them horizontally below the window, however that negates any eye candy.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Make a bracket and mount it to your fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The thing is, I will have three FF5-120 Vardars as intake fans and 12 SP120 Quiet Editions in push/pull. I figure my absolute best case scenario (from a positive pressure perspective) is that I'm moving ~235 CFM out of the case. If I'm restricting my intake, I worry about creating negative pressure. Also, I plan to exclusively use M.2 SSDs, so I need to have the intake streams mixing and creating turbulence above the mobo, which will be sucked up by the rad fans, to negate that extra heat.
> 
> Sorry, guys, I know I'm being a pain in the posterior and I'm probably overthinking this, but I'm being a bit of a perfectionist since this is my first build.
Click to expand...

Imo, adding a second res. won't do anything for the temps.
Do you have the front window option in your S8? I have my res. mounted on the side shelf in front of the window in my S8, attached to a pass-through. It's an IandH 225, but will be too tall once I change my XSPC RX-360's to being roof-mounted. So, I bought an EK X3 110 res. to fit in the same spot once I change over the rads, with the extended top.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> What I´m quite happy with is the look of black tubing on black barbs. Changing over to sparkling sliver compression fittings is a thing I really do not want to do (as about the same ammount on angled adapters and fittings are in stock too).
> The hell lot of money is the ammount I didn´t want to spend ontop of what I allready did for the skylake update and that´s why I didn´t invest in ~150€ for Bitspower Hardtube fittings, and still use soft tubing.
> CPU/GPU will be short straight routing, from the lower mosfet out to cpu in, up to the gpu and from there back to the res.
> 
> The long connections are a problem, that´s why I went from the top Mosfet outlet 90° down, as straight as possible and behind the 360 radiator to the 240. I Could add a 90° adapter with 2 Barbs to get the vertical section more straight down, but for the Pump to 360 inlet Connection I really have no more clues.
> 
> Yay sitting infront of a case is the way to go, sadly I´ve spent about 20h allready doing that, repositioning parts and playing around with angled adapters and cutting tubing. That´s


Any chance you can turn the bottom rad so the ports are facing the cases rear panel?
The same maybe also for the front rad with the ports showing to the top.
Both could give you the possibility to 'hide' the tubing or short it much more.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I've had a few alphacool rotaries and they have all leaked to some extent. No experience with BP, but my EK and Barrow rotaries have never leaked once.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Been rocking Bitspower adapters, extensions, rotaries, valves... everything but the actual fittings which are Primochills... but yeah never had a leak with any of them before.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Nice weather!
> I've heard stories leaking BP rotaries. If there's any problem with your Alpha rotaries, you should see it right away. I have Enzotech, XSPC, Koolance & BP rotaries in my loop & none of them leaking. No brand is immune to QC issue.


Hmm..

Still wondering what would be best to do.
I got a 90 Bitspower rotary laying here but i'm not sure if its worth the hassle of draining, leak-testing etc.. again while everything works just fine right now.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Anyone?


Bitspower 45° & 90° rotary fittings - have had leaks
Bitspower straight rotary (IE anti-twist) - have had leaks
XSPC 45° & 90° rotary fittings - no leaks
XSPC straight rotary fittings - have had leaks
Enzotech 45° rotary fittings - no leaks

As others have mentioned, I do not believe any brand is immune to having a rotary leak, but obviously I can't state that for sure as I have not used every brand. If you leak tested and no leaks were found, you may as well stay with what you have.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> That looks really cool. I know it's my eyes playing tricks on me, but the color scheme gives the impression of grittiness to the interior. Sorta like Beijing during a smog alert.


Thanks haha, it's just due to the low light in our flat here, I used a desk lamp and my phone's torch so I can see what I'm doing, mega annoying. to get a usable pic I have to edit all the brightness, contrast and saturation so it ends up like that unfortunately.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I really like the crossover of the tubing going from the pump to the radiator. Its such a simple solution to a routing problem i've been pondering with my proposed loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! Nice thinking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thank you, to be honest though the port on the left should of been feed by the pump then the right should of fed the GPU so there would of been no cross of the tubing, it was really late when I finished the loop so I didn't notice what I'd done. I could still fix it yet though so will see.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Recently built this, Sorry for the poor pic, need to get some better shots.


Good neat work. Have you considered some dye to add a splash of color?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> Which tubing is better, clear or black ?
> I´m still unsure what to use.
> 
> ZMT looks stealthier, but the final system could look a bit "boring" as I plan to use clear fluid too
> Tygon (the good old non bio stuff) on the other hand is good to work with, would add some shiny accents.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblocks will be a chromed HK3.0 and the Watercool chrome XL block for the 980Ti


I like the black look of the ZMT in your setup. With all the black around it, it fits right in. Adding the chromed look of the blocks will give the system some bling. The area where the ZMT is used may need a chromed fitting or two for continuity of the build look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Guys, I need your help as well. I'm doing a mod to my reservoirs and I need something I can seal up the end of a PETG or Acrylic tube with? It will be in the res and coolant will touch it. I was thinking regular clear epoxy? What does the group think?


Take a look here: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/3/. I am thinking Fast_Fate did this review - at any rate the point is the fittings that were used to cap off the ends of the glass tubes for the pressure test. Could something like that be of help to you?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Depending on what preferences are:
> *If you want long life performance and don't want to bother with leaching plasticizer which may clog your blocks, then go for ZMT / Norprene.* With a right mix of fittings (e.g. black chrome) it's possible to create a kind of industrial look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a sample: http://www.overclock.net/t/1572489/sponsored-modzero-forty-hex-gear-r40-finished-3rd-dec/40


^ That is just an awesome build! I am not much of a small form factor person, but some of the builds I have been seeing at OCN the last couple of years have me drooling.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Good neat work. Have you considered some dye to add a splash of color?


Yes I'll be adding UV green to some pastel in a couple of months but first I need to finish the loop, I intend on replacing the soft tubing with my acrylic tubing but I need a few things first. I'm unsure on my hardline tubing runs yet, the build is called Kraken, and I really want to make the tubing flow like an octopus tentacle, if I was to go with 16mm acrylic then maybe have some suction cups etched into the underside of the runs but for now that's for a later date.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Take a look here: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/3/. I am thinking Fast_Fate did this review - at any rate the point is the fittings that were used to cap off the ends of the glass tubes for the pressure test. Could something like that be of help to you?


Thanks but that would be overkill for what I need. I just need something to cap off the end so no water can get into it. It's not going to be visible at all so it really doesn't have to be pretty. I'm thinking that either epoxy or even hot glue might work, I just need to know if anyone has had experience with these and what they might do when in contact with coolant? I would assume epoxy would be the best and it really becomes an plastic like PETG. However I'd like to know for sure before I try it.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Bitspower 45° & 90° rotary fittings - have had leaks
> Bitspower straight rotary (IE anti-twist) - have had leaks
> XSPC 45° & 90° rotary fittings - no leaks
> XSPC straight rotary fittings - have had leaks
> Enzotech 45° rotary fittings - no leaks
> 
> As others have mentioned, I do not believe any brand is immune to having a rotary leak, but obviously I can't state that for sure as I have not used every brand. If you leak tested and no leaks were found, you may as well stay with what you have.


XSPC 45 rotaries can leak. I have two of them, one was fine for a while then started leaking on me after my last tear down. The other had never been used and when I added it to my loop it leaked as well.


----------



## rck1984

So far leaks of Bitspower, Alphacool, XSPC, EKWB.. I guess there is no "right choice" when it comes to choosing rotary fittings. Perhaps i should just keep my Alphacool ones in and keep an eye on them for now. As said, they're working just fine right now, haven't seen a single leak so far.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Take a look here: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/3/. I am thinking Fast_Fate did this review - at any rate the point is the fittings that were used to cap off the ends of the glass tubes for the pressure test. Could something like that be of help to you?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks but that would be overkill for what I need. I just need something to cap off the end so no water can get into it. It's not going to be visible at all so it really doesn't have to be pretty. I'm thinking that either epoxy or even hot glue might work, I just need to know if anyone has had experience with these and what they might do when in contact with coolant? I would assume epoxy would be the best and it really becomes an plastic like PETG. However I'd like to know for sure before I try it.
Click to expand...

I too want to seal two Acrylic tubes (hidden). I thought of a couple of options but one was to heat the ends and then bend it without an inner tube. I expect that will end up with a 'crushed' closure to the tube. Or heat and crimp with pliers.

The 'close with fittings' option (seen in the link) was also an option I looked at. A compression fitting into a female / female extension and a plug.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I have a small question that I didn't think warrant a new thread so I was hoping someone could help me. Would adding waterproof silicone grease from scuba store to acrylic thread have any ill effects on a waterloop? For some odd reason I have the hardest time screwing on any bitspower tubing to my DDC top upgrade kit. When I purchase it new, it screwed on with ease. However, now it will get stuck trying to spin it on and now matter how much strength I use, It feels like I will crack the reservoir so the only way I could get it on was to grease up the thread. The threads aren't strip but seem dried out or something. It doesn't look that good visually since you can see air bubbles or whatever but will it do anything to my coolant?


Seeing those house thos ek fans look and seem easy to paint. I think I may I might need to pick some up. I actually had the sam problem. I bought the 250 ml ddc up grade and the 250 no matter what will not thread all the way down. But my 150ml would. I think it s the threads our messed up and I wouldn't trust using it that way. Sucks buT another 60 to get a new one will feel a lot better than a friend psu or gpu


----------



## DaClownie

If my d5 can supply enough pumping power is there any reason why this set up would not work?



Come out of cpu block up into res through that 90 fitting. Res will be filled above the 90 fitting though so there will be some push back from gravity with the water wanting to flow against the inlet. Water will exit res like so...



Will go in through top of right compartment down directly into pump.

Loop order:

Res - Pump (d5 and I think I'm going to get an EK top) - 240mm radiator 1 - 240mm radiator 2 - gpu block - CPU block and back to res


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> If my d5 can supply enough pumping power is there any reason why this set up would not work?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come out of cpu block up into res through that 90 fitting. Res will be filled above the 90 fitting though so there will be some push back from gravity with the water wanting to flow against the inlet. Water will exit res like so...
> 
> 
> 
> Will go in through top of right compartment down directly into pump.
> 
> Loop order:
> 
> Res - Pump (d5 and I think I'm going to get an EK top) - 240mm radiator 1 - 240mm radiator 2 - gpu block - CPU block and back to res


As long as your res is feeding your pump inlet, that should work just fine. D5 will be plenty. I'm running a similar setup with no problems.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> That's worrying because the D5 version is precisely what I want. Did you receive any communication from PrimoChill about whether or not the res was defective?


I did some research and found others having the same issue.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1553571/primochill-ctr-phase-ii-reservoir-review/0_50
That thing was a huge pita for me. Primochill was willing to refund. They pointed me to a youtube video. After I seen other with same issue I was not willing to risk it.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> If my d5 can supply enough pumping power is there any reason why this set up would not work?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come out of cpu block up into res through that 90 fitting. Res will be filled above the 90 fitting though so there will be some push back from gravity with the water wanting to flow against the inlet. Water will exit res like so...
> 
> 
> 
> Will go in through top of right compartment down directly into pump.
> 
> Loop order:
> 
> Res - Pump (d5 and I think I'm going to get an EK top) - 240mm radiator 1 - 240mm radiator 2 - gpu block - CPU block and back to res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as your res is feeding your pump inlet, that should work just fine. D5 will be plenty. I'm running a similar setup with no problems.
Click to expand...

Cool. I'm trying to find a way to compensate for my poor planning. The Monsoon res, while I love the look, is way to bulky to fit in the right side of the Air 240 with a 240mm radiator jammed in there too... Two easy ways around it... 1. Buy an EK 100mm d5 res, which will fit in alongside and keep everything internal. 2. Buy a normal end cap for my monsoon res, and move it outside the case and onto the top to move water around that way, while buying an EK d5 top to keep the pump internal. Not sure which solution I want to go for yet... I like the idea of keeping everything inside the case... but i love the monsoon res too... gah lol


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Exactly who where you replying to?


'Twas you. I posted that on my phone, it was a snap reply as I was coming back from a smoke break. Sorry about not quoting.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Imo, adding a second res. won't do anything for the temps.
> Do you have the front window option in your S8? I have my res. mounted on the side shelf in front of the window in my S8, attached to a pass-through. It's an IandH 225, but will be too tall once I change my XSPC RX-360's to being roof-mounted. So, I bought an EK X3 110 res. to fit in the same spot once I change over the rads, with the extended top.


I meant adding a second loop. This is what I get for posting when I'm tired. And yeah, I have a front window.


----------



## Questors

So, moving right along (at a snails pace - during January - in the arctic circle - climbing an icy 90° hill)

I managed to accomplish this



Just a bit more work with it and that part will finally be ready. I am pretty happy with the results.









Lowfat gave me a tip and while implementing it, this brainstorm hit me. The only thing I had to buy was the brush, $1.97.



Of course, the essential piece of this operation is rather obvious being the Chewy.com highly advanced cutting edge technology NASA approved table protector!


----------



## emsj86

You mind telling where you got the brushes for the drill and or what they our called (part number wise)


----------



## rck1984




----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> 'Twas you. I posted that on my phone, it was a snap reply as I was coming back from a smoke break. Sorry about not quoting.


Copy, I'm a little iffy about using RTV as that will shrink over time and I would rather use something more permanent.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You mind telling where you got the brushes for the drill and or what they our called (part number wise)


Those are for cleaning gun barrels, looks to be for a 22 there. You'd also need a rifle cleaning rod to attach it to as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Sometimes it's advisable to sit in front of the PC you want to build for a couple of hours, then the ideas start to pop up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (personal experience)


Its what I do.

Then the verniers come out......

..........THEN the hammer.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its what I do.
> 
> Then the verniers come out......
> 
> ..........THEN the hammer.


Then by the time you are done you could have almost built everything yourself lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Then by the time you are done you could have almost built everything yourself lol.


Well....yeah.....that too.....

Its true that I often throw away 60%+ of a case.

I have a whole section of the loft devoted to a Jawa Scrap pile of case remains


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Copy, I'm a little iffy about using RTV as that will shrink over time and I would rather use something more permanent.


I wouldn't use an epoxy like PlastiWeld, because once it's cured there's no breaking that bond without breaking the part. I specifically suggested the blue because that's what you'd use on water pumps in vehicles. While I can't confirm it, I rather suspect you'll see much longer life out of the RTV if it's not constantly exposed to 300 degree diluted organic acid under extremely high pressures.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> I wouldn't use an epoxy like PlastiWeld, because once it's cured there's no breaking that bond without breaking the part. I specifically suggested the blue because that's what you'd use on water pumps in vehicles. While I can't confirm it, I rather suspect you'll see much longer life out of the RTV if it's not constantly exposed to 300 degree diluted organic acid under extremely high pressures.


Very true. I have some in my toolbox to. But I'm looking for a permanent fix as this is a cosmetic fixture and doesn't really matter to much. As long as this one end is sealed from water, it's all good. I just want to make sure that epoxy won't mess with my coolant.


----------



## brazilianloser

Prep is done... Time to re-plan my loop and fix all the mistakes and shortcomings from the previous build. After all I got another week or two before I get my RMA board back from MSI


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Very true. I have some in my toolbox to. But I'm looking for a permanent fix as this is a cosmetic fixture and doesn't really matter to much. As long as this one end is sealed from water, it's all good. I just want to make sure that epoxy won't mess with my coolant.


If you follow the curing schedule there shouldn't be a problem. I'm not sure if MarineWeld is clear, but if so that's what I'd go with.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> If you follow the curing schedule there shouldn't be a problem. I'm not sure if MarineWeld is clear, but if so that's what I'd go with.


Very good point, I'll have to see if I can find some marine stuff around here.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Prep is done... Time to re-plan my loop and fix all the mistakes and shortcomings from the previous build. After all I got another week or two before I get my RMA board back from MSI


Isn't it amazing how you get all that in that case.


----------



## PedroC1999

Has anyone ever mixed Hardline and regular tubing in a loop? ANy issues that could arise?


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Has anyone ever mixed Hardline and regular tubing in a loop? ANy issues that could arise?


Why would there be any issues? It's not like mixing metals


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Has anyone ever mixed Hardline and regular tubing in a loop? ANy issues that could arise?


It has been done many times - You see it a lot usually in the hidden sections of builds where it can become awkward/difficult to route hardline.

Only issue is if you use tubing that can leech platiciser otherwise its fine to mix & match....


----------



## zu903

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Has anyone ever mixed Hardline and regular tubing in a loop? ANy issues that could arise?


I used soft tubing in my back bay. I didn't want to run bends for something only ill see every once and awhile


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> So, moving right along (at a snails pace - during January - in the arctic circle - climbing an icy 90° hill)
> 
> I managed to accomplish this
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit more work with it and that part will finally be ready. I am pretty happy with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lowfat gave me a tip and while implementing it, this brainstorm hit me. The only thing I had to buy was the brush, $1.97.
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, the essential piece of this operation is rather obvious being the Chewy.com highly advanced cutting edge technology NASA approved table protector!


That looks amazing! Great job!


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*


Love this picture. Great photography skills!


----------



## zu903

Anyone else using a d5 vario whats your preferred speed? I have it set a 3 right now and im happy with my temps just wondering what other owners have it set to.


----------



## wermad

I have both of mine at #5 and you can barely hear them from the outside with the fans at their lowest setting. You will occasionally hear a few air pockets surging through the pumps as they make their way out.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Isn't it amazing how you get all that in that case.


I know right. Great case to work with.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> Anyone else using a d5 vario whats your preferred speed? I have it set a 3 right now and im happy with my temps just wondering what other owners have it set to.


This question is skimping on important details, therefore any responses are perhaps going to be somewhat meaningless








or worse, potentially misleading to newcomers looking for similar information









To get meaningful answers we need to know what components and how many are in the loop.
To what extreme are they overclocked ?
series or parallel, any overly restrictive components.
do you have temp sensors, flow meters, what are their readings.

You'll never get slammed for providing too much info and will increase the chances of getting better information in the replies


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> Anyone else using a d5 vario whats your preferred speed? I have it set a 3 right now and im happy with my temps just wondering what other owners have it set to.


I have three blocks and two rads on a single D5, running speed 5 and cant hear it with all the fans running < 1000rpms. Benchmark the temp difference, see if the difference in sound signature is noticeable/annoying in its permanent location, and make a decision based on your own findings. If you get a couple C's benefit, and cant hear a difference, crank it up. If you get no thermal advantage, and it vibrates your chassis in such a way that you think someone is knocking at the door, then leave it low. There wouldn't be a speed 5 if it couldn't do it safely if that is what your concern is.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You mind telling where you got the brushes for the drill and or what they our called (part number wise)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Those are for cleaning gun barrels, looks to be for a 22 there. You'd also need a rifle cleaning rod to attach it to as well.


Dasandmancometh has the idea.

Hoppe's Hoppe's Nylon Brush for .30 Caliber Rifles - Item# 1305 (Hoppe's PN: HOP52 R 1305)
Hoppe's Nylon Brush for .35 Caliber and 9 mm Rifles - Item #: 1309 (Hoppe's PN:HOP52 R 1309) - $1.97 USD (Academy Sports)
Hoppe's Online - Choose Brush from Drop Down

I used both brushes, but preferred the .30 caliber brush for polish as it allowed me to wrap the micro fiber cloth around it several times. Painter's Tape worked great as thread protector at drill chuck - easy on - easy off. Cotton balls to plug the inlet/outlet ports minimizing mess. String to tie the cloth on the brush at the top and bottom. Make sure to let the cloth extend half an inch or so beyond the end of the brush, this keeps the brush from bottoming out and let's you polish all the way to the bottom of the water channel with ease. Recommend using drill with a low speed setting so you can't hit the trigger and ZOOOOOMMMM! Melted acrylic and/or bottom out damage! At the very least use a variable speed drill. I also used the rod assembly for sanding, but strictly manual work.


----------



## emsj86

Thanks for the info. Going to have to try it out. Doing it by hand is fine by me but getting the channels polished was hard for me just rolling the sand paper up.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> So, moving right along (at a snails pace - during January - in the arctic circle - climbing an icy 90° hill)
> 
> I managed to accomplish this
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit more work with it and that part will finally be ready. I am pretty happy with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lowfat gave me a tip and while implementing it, this brainstorm hit me. The only thing I had to buy was the brush, $1.97.
> 
> Of course, the essential piece of this operation is rather obvious being the Chewy.com highly advanced cutting edge technology NASA approved table protector!


Turned out awesome.


----------



## Tekgnome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> If my d5 can supply enough pumping power is there any reason why this set up would not work?
> 
> 
> 
> Come out of cpu block up into res through that 90 fitting. Res will be filled above the 90 fitting though so there will be some push back from gravity with the water wanting to flow against the inlet. Water will exit res like so...
> 
> 
> 
> Will go in through top of right compartment down directly into pump.
> 
> Loop order:
> 
> Res - Pump (d5 and I think I'm going to get an EK top) - 240mm radiator 1 - 240mm radiator 2 - gpu block - CPU block and back to res


Ohh is that an air 540?

Here is my air 540, ignore the missing gpu. I melted it overclocking









Evga is covering it under there warranty though.



dual barrow res
Two 240mm rads
120mm rad


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekgnome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> If my d5 can supply enough pumping power is there any reason why this set up would not work?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come out of cpu block up into res through that 90 fitting. Res will be filled above the 90 fitting though so there will be some push back from gravity with the water wanting to flow against the inlet. Water will exit res like so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will go in through top of right compartment down directly into pump.
> 
> Loop order:
> 
> Res - Pump (d5 and I think I'm going to get an EK top) - 240mm radiator 1 - 240mm radiator 2 - gpu block - CPU block and back to res
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh is that an air 540?
> 
> Here is my air 540, ignore the missing gpu. I melted it overclocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Evga is covering it under there warranty though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dual barrow res
> Two 240mm rads
> 120mm rad
Click to expand...

No, I'm working inside an Air 240. If this was an Air 540, I'd be done already. Fitting it into an Air 240 is proving a bit more difficult so I'm being a bit more strategic as I work through haha


----------



## Tekgnome

Ahh, yes

I didn't realize how small it was at first, it looks almost identical to my 540









Now I understand why your mounting the res/pump outside the case.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Turned out awesome.


Thank you!


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> Love this picture. Great photography skills!


Thanks







I liked it as well, i thought i'd share it


----------



## snef

I LOVE these blue Fittings
















































































































































a special switch for Darkside led


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I LOVE these blue Fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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> a special switch for Darkside led


Just one word :
Wow


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> If my d5 can supply enough pumping power is there any reason why this set up would not work?
> 
> Come out of cpu block up into res through that 90 fitting. Res will be filled above the 90 fitting though so there will be some push back from gravity with the water wanting to flow against the inlet. Water will exit res like so...


you might have a problem when the pump is off, though its doubtful if shes bled well.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I LOVE these blue Fittings


As always - Awesome work snef.....


----------



## rsvette12

Awesome job on this one


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## Jflisk

@snef - That is nice wow good Job


----------



## Fyrwulf

Damn it snef, stop this, you're making us mere mortals look bad.


----------



## brazilianloser

Anyone that is familiar with somewhat fixing scratches on Bitspower reservoirs... Got mine scratched up a bit.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone that is familiar with somewhat fixing scratches on Bitspower reservoirs... Got mine scratched up a bit.


Are they just surface scratches? If so, just follow @lowfat acrylic polishing tutorial and they should come right out! If you check out his stuff you will be amazed!


----------



## alltheGHz

Hu, I didnt think about painting the screws in any build I did, it turned out pretty good!


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone that is familiar with somewhat fixing scratches on Bitspower reservoirs... Got mine scratched up a bit.


Any headlight restoration kit will do the job, so long as the scratches aren't too deep.


----------



## taowulf

Amazing Snef


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I LOVE these blue Fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
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> a special switch for Darkside led
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Just one word :
> Wow
Click to expand...

Just another amazing build by your friendly neighborhood snef.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I LOVE these blue Fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> a special switch for Darkside led


Darn, as always. Beautiful build.









How the heck do you get that back plate for the GPU or how can that be done? Got my artiste side a going.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I LOVE these blue Fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> a special switch for Darkside led
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> 
> 
> 
> Darn, as always. Beautiful build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How the heck do you get those back plate for the GPU or how can that be done? Got my artiste side a going.
Click to expand...

Printed decals on plexi if I am not mistaken.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Printed decals on plexi if I am not mistaken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hmmm, where be a good place to get those done at? I could draw up some sweet ones for my rigs then.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Printed decals on plexi if I am not mistaken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, where be a good place to get those done at? I could draw up some sweet ones for my rigs then.
Click to expand...

If you're in the States, Staples can print you out high quality graphics in sheet stock decals.









~Ceadder


----------



## ghostrider85

Anyone willing to mod my h440 panels for a fee? My custom loop is running hot because of the restrictive panels. I basically just want to cut a 140mm x 360mm holes on both top and front panels and put some mesh or something


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> Anyone willing to mod my h440 panels for a fee? My custom loop is running hot because of the restrictive panels. I basically just want to cut a 140mm x 360mm holes on both top and front panels and put some mesh or something


Custom panels can be hacked at a specialty Auto Body shop for a small fee. Just make sure you explain in detail what you want and are satisfied with their work prior to payment. It would save you a small fortune in shipping too. Unless one of us are local of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> If my d5 can supply enough pumping power is there any reason why this set up would not work?
> 
> Come out of cpu block up into res through that 90 fitting. Res will be filled above the 90 fitting though so there will be some push back from gravity with the water wanting to flow against the inlet. Water will exit res like so...
> 
> 
> 
> you might have a problem when the pump is off, though its doubtful if shes bled well.
Click to expand...

What would be the issue when the pump is off? The water level on the reservoir going down below the port feeding the pump inlet?


----------



## Benjiw

Urm, hey guys, a quick question, I've been looking at Akasa 120mm Ultra Quiet Venom Viper Cool Fans, the colour is decent and I'd be using them on my Phobya 1080mm rad so I'd need 9 of them. Has anyone used them? What are they like? Are they pretty quiet and do they have good static pressure for rads too? Thanks in advance!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> What would be the issue when the pump is off? The water level on the reservoir going down below the port feeding the pump inlet?


pretty much. also the other direction aka feeding the res. thats why i said its doubtful. cant say you wont have any issues cause that leaves the door open for finger pointing when issues arise...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I LOVE these blue Fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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> 
> Darn, as always. Beautiful build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How the heck do you get that back plate for the GPU or how can that be done? Got my artiste side a going.
Click to expand...

I think it's printed sticker.


----------



## wermad

Varders the "it" fan these days??? No more GT fans as the top dog??? Man, things change quickly...maybe I'm just getting too old









Anyone have led's in a plug to illuminate their reservoirs? Mine look a little too dim or the res might be too large (210x60). I tried them on the 12v (by mistake) and it looks the same as the stock 5v. I was hoping for a nice illumination but it shines about an 1" from the plug. Maybe its the BP glazed plug....might have to polish it


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I LOVE these blue Fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a special switch for Darkside led
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darn, as always. Beautiful build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How the heck do you get that back plate for the GPU or how can that be done? Got my artiste side a going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think it's printed sticker.
Click to expand...

Yep stickers. Only thing stopping me from doing something awesome like that is the inability to draw haha


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Varders the "it" fan these days??? No more GT fans as the top dog??? Man, things change quickly...maybe I'm just getting too old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have led's in a plug to illuminate their reservoirs? Mine look a little too dim or the res might be too large (210x60). I tried them on the 12v (by mistake) and it looks the same as the stock 5v. I was hoping for a nice illumination but it shines about an 1" from the plug. Maybe its the BP glazed plug....might have to polish it


I think Vardar's have good specs and SP that's the reason for the popularity. Since GT's disappeared for awhile and got really pricey, people jumped ship. I really like my Vardar's!

As for the plug, mine sucked too but was also frosted like yours, so maybe a polish would help. I think they are built for smaller res' honestly.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Varders the "it" fan these days??? No more GT fans as the top dog??? Man, things change quickly...maybe I'm just getting too old


Vardars just make more sense now that Scythe's no longer selling the GT's. Especially here in Europe the price difference is quite large. (€15-19 for the vardar 120ER and €24-29 for the GT AP-15)


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Vardars just make more sense now that Scythe's no longer selling the GT's. Especially here in Europe the price difference is quite large. (€15-19 for the vardar 120ER and €24-29 for the GT AP-15)


Totally agree. Also, the Vardar's look really good IMHO.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Vardar fans are pretty sweet. But I think my plan is NF-F12 IPPC. I like the looks of the fan better for one.


----------



## DaClownie

I nice breakpoint between price and performance are the Corsair SP120's as well... They don't perform as well as the vardars, but they can be had for considerably less. I purchased Corsair SP120 quiet edition PWM twin packs for $28 shipped, compared to vardars @ $18/ea + shipping from PPCS or EKWB directly.

After it's all said and done, that saved me about $45 on my 8 fans I ordered. It all depends if those couple degrees on load temperatures make or break what you're trying to do.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I nice breakpoint between price and performance are the Corsair SP120's as well... They don't perform as well as the vardars, but they can be had for considerably less. I purchased Corsair SP120 quiet edition PWM twin packs for $28 shipped, compared to vardars @ $18/ea + shipping from PPCS or EKWB directly.
> 
> After it's all said and done, that saved me about $45 on my 8 fans I ordered. It all depends if those couple degrees on load temperatures make or break what you're trying to do.


Great point! I liked the black and gray because it matched my build and also got mine from someone for a great deal, practically brand new! Think I paid like $10-12 each shipped and they were like a month old or something close to that.


----------



## wermad

Don't mention corsair, or the hate-squad will be pulling out their pitch forks and lighting their torches (looks at 66x corsair fins in case)









Never was a fan of the look of the Varders, and the GT tbh. I would love some Eloops but you can only use them in push. Well, i can see why there's so much luv from one to another:



edit:

How much are the Darkside one's going for in EU?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I think Vardar's have good specs and SP that's the reason for the popularity. Since GT's disappeared for awhile and got really pricey, people jumped ship. I really like my Vardar's!
> 
> As for the plug, mine sucked too but was also frosted like yours, so maybe a polish would help. I think they are built for smaller res' honestly.


Yeah, i was suspecting it was the frosting/glazing. Man, ever since ek did the csq frosted, things are all over the place. I have some white compound and Ill give that a test to see how it can clear up the glaze/frost.


----------



## Dave6531

Build i just completed, black hardline with black sleeving.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone have led's in a plug to illuminate their reservoirs? Mine look a little too dim or the res might be too large (210x60). I tried them on the 12v (by mistake) and it looks the same as the stock 5v. I was hoping for a nice illumination but it shines about an 1" from the plug. Maybe its the BP glazed plug....might have to polish it


https://imageshack.com/i/pmZR9huPj

Here is mine with two XSPC 5mm leds in the Bitspower 150 Z tank using the Bitspower plugs.


----------



## wermad

That looks fantastic but mine don't look like that







. Here's the plug I got:



The right res does have a bit better glow, but its obviously due to the crap-load of lighting coming from the G1 Z170 board. The led is a 5mmx8mm, running on 5v (and it looks like its got a resistor on it). I have a ton of xspc blue, and some jabtech white and uv 3mm lights. I'll dig em up tomorrow to compare them. I do recall the xspc were intense (runs off 5v iirc).

edit: my Barrow reservoirs have two ports on top. I specifically set them up so i can use the center one for the led plugs and the offset ones for intake.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How much are the Darkside one's going for in EU?


25 eur for a piece...

http://www.highflow.nl/fans/ventilatoren/120mm-nl/nidec-120mm-gentle-typhoon-performance-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition.html


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> 25 eur for a piece...
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/fans/ventilatoren/120mm-nl/nidec-120mm-gentle-typhoon-performance-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition.html


26 even, plus shipping, oh the horrors


----------



## khemist

I've got five of the darkside pwm typhoons i'm selling on.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you're in the States, Staples can print you out high quality graphics in sheet stock decals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hmmm, seems I need to go over to Staples and get a test run then done. Ooooo, I been wanting to do custom decals for stuff. Depends how well their quality satisfies me.

Bit of a tease of what I tend to draw.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Bit old, currently got a few newer ones, and working on one that a late donation prize for FFW.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Urm, hey guys, a quick question, I've been looking at Akasa 120mm Ultra Quiet Venom Viper Cool Fans, the colour is decent and I'd be using them on my Phobya 1080mm rad so I'd need 9 of them. Has anyone used them? What are they like? Are they pretty quiet and do they have good static pressure for rads too? Thanks in advance!


My second water cooling rig was yellow themed after the Z77 OC Formula motherboard. The 120 & 140 mm Akasa Viper fans were recommended to me by Joe (currently top dog at ModMyMods) when he worked for FrozenCPU. They worked well for me. I don't have scientific test numbers to offer, just user experience. To me they weren't loud unless you cranked them wide open, but I have yet to find a fan that isn't "loud" over 1500 RPM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Vardars just make more sense now that Scythe's no longer selling the GT's. Especially here in Europe the price difference is quite large. (€15-19 for the vardar 120ER and €24-29 for the GT AP-15)


OEM package style GTs are available in the USA from Coolerguys for $19.95 each. No help to folks in Europe I suppose, but might be to those in the States. The Darkside versions are available from ModMyMods, PPCS and last I knew DazMode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Build i just completed, black hardline with black sleeving.


Super interesting! It reminds me of steel braided lines on a hot rod.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Received my Demciflex Filters for the Front of the SMA8 Flex bay intake and the other two for the sides of the Bottom of the Case.

Easy to install. Well made.

Sold For life. Very Very Nice items to have.

TCO


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Received my Demciflex Filters for the Front of the SMA8 Flex bay intake and the other two for the sides of the Bottom of the Case.
> 
> Easy to install. Well made.
> 
> Sold For life. Very Very Nice items to have.
> 
> TCO


With increased resistance due to the filer how large rise in water temperature would you expect if any?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone have led's in a plug to illuminate their reservoirs? Mine look a little too dim or the res might be too large (210x60). I tried them on the 12v (by mistake) and it looks the same as the stock 5v. I was hoping for a nice illumination but it shines about an 1" from the plug. Maybe its the BP glazed plug....might have to polish it


Its the actual plug itself,the LED sits too deep to give a good light effect,the LED is more external than internal,I used them before and was highly disappointed.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> With increased resistance due to the filer how large rise in water temperature would you expect if any?


The Filters are mounted on the Outside of the Case (in front of the Fans of course) but there is no direct contact with the fans. I will run the usual game I am accustomed to looking at temps from and report back.

I have One decimex filters on the PSU side of the bottom of the SMA8 that covers the 240mm rad I use in the lower compartment, and the other side is a 480mm Rad that is used in the GPU loop.

The Flex bay filter I purchased covers the 240mm In the Front of the case used for the GPU loop as well.

So Frontside 480, Backside 240, and the Flex Bay 240. All intake.





TCO


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That looks fantastic but mine don't look like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Here's the plug I got:


That's the same as the two i'm using.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Sorry for the poor picture quality but here is my all AMD build...
FX 9590
ASUS crosshair
16g gskill 1866
2x 1tb WD black (raid 0)
1 256 Radeon R7 SSD
R9 Nano

-WC Parts-
EK GPU block
MK supremacy CPU block
480 XE
EK DDC Xtop
A mix between EK and Bitspower fittings

2x multi X 150 res stacked.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I gots me a busy summer....


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Filters are mounted on the Outside of the Case (in front of the Fans of course) but there is no direct contact with the fans. I will run the usual game I am accustomed to looking at temps from and report back.
> 
> I have One decimex filters on the PSU side of the bottom of the SMA8 that covers the 240mm rad I use in the lower compartment, and the other side is a 480mm Rad that is used in the GPU loop.
> 
> The Flex bay filter I purchased covers the 240mm In the Front of the case used for the GPU loop as well.
> 
> So Frontside 480, Backside 240, and the Flex Bay 240. All intake.
> TCO


Report back if you see any difference. But with that much radiator area I don't think you will.

Looking at the case, I really like how you mixed those two pastel colors so well. Looks amazing.


----------



## PedroC1999

http://www.overclock.net/t/1592557/what-case-small-high-quality-eatx/0_40

Can anyone help a buddy out?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> 25 eur for a piece...
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/fans/ventilatoren/120mm-nl/nidec-120mm-gentle-typhoon-performance-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition.html
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> 26 even, plus shipping, oh the horrors
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I've got five of the darkside pwm typhoons i'm selling on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, just curious since I've been hearing a lot GT's are even more expensive now in the EU. I've got a couple of years or so before I seriously decide to move on from my current fans. I found one but its pretty much an older one with very few out there for sale (I need 66x fans







).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the actual plug itself,the LED sits too deep to give a good light effect,the LED is more external than internal,I used them before and was highly disappointed.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> That's the same as the two i'm using.
Click to expand...

Ty guys, I'll compare them to the other ones i have in storage.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> With increased resistance due to the filer how large rise in water temperature would you expect if any?


I have been hailing the benefits of Demciflex filters for a few years. They don't look bad (a matter of perspective I suppose - beauty in the eye of the beholder kind of thing) and work very well. They are ridiculously easy to clean and even easier to remove for cleaning. I have had no noticeable rise in operating temperatures from adding the filters. What can be said - compared to how much dust and junk used to get inside before the filters, despite my best efforts, my temperatures actually stay level more consistently.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Sorry for the poor picture quality but here is my all AMD build...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> FX 9590
> ASUS crosshair
> 16g gskill 1866
> 2x 1tb WD black (raid 0)
> 1 256 Radeon R7 SSD
> R9 Nano
> 
> -WC Parts-
> EK GPU block
> MK supremacy CPU block
> 480 XE
> EK DDC Xtop
> A mix between EK and Bitspower fittings
> 
> 2x multi X 150 res stacked.


Like the sideways video card.


----------



## Touge180SX

Still not complete, but getting close. Rig is up and running and temps under full load never hit 40C on both CPU and GPU. Ambient in the room is 30C or so (wifey is always cold!). Thought I would post up these pics for now and post completed when all the little stuff I want to do is done.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I have been hailing the benefits of Demciflex filters for a few years. They don't look bad (a matter of perspective I suppose - beauty in the eye of the beholder kind of thing) and work very well. They are ridiculously easy to clean and even easier to remove for cleaning.


Depending on the case - you can actually mount them on the inside so they effectively become invisible.

On my SMA8, I have intakes on the lower sides and top (none at the front). I ordered a custom set from Demciflex and these fit inside the panels so the filter frame and magnetic strip are completely hidden from view.

The are great in reducing the dust - been using them for quite some time now on my other PC (Corsair 900D) and I would not run a PC without them....


----------



## H4mm3R2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Still not complete, but getting close. Rig is up and running and temps under full load never hit 40C on both CPU and GPU. Ambient in the room is 30C or so (wifey is always cold!). Thought I would post up these pics for now and post completed when all the little stuff I want to do is done.


Looks amazing
What size of these fitting? 13/19mm?
Where can I buy such a fitting 90°?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Report back if you see any difference. But with that much radiator area I don't think you will.
> 
> Looking at the case, I really like how you mixed those two pastel colors so well. Looks amazing.


You got a deal. Ill Report back if I notice a jump. Thanks for the Compliment. I appreciate that.

TCO


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4mm3R2*
> 
> Looks amazing
> What size of these fitting? 13/19mm?
> Where can I buy such a fitting 90°?


Thanks!! Yeah, those are 13/19mm fittings. The angled rotary fittings are all EK CSQ fittings, IMHO the sexiest rotary made! They have them on EK`s website and probably other places with some searching. I heard they don't make them anymore, not sure though. I got mine from a PC store here in Japan.

Here is the page for the 45`s (only ones left on the EK site):
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-adapter-45-g1-4-black


----------



## PedroC1999

What sort of distance can a single D5 pump, and will two, directly next to each other, increase this or simply add redundancy?

Basically, looking to pump water from one case to another, case will be about 1.5 to 2 meters away and use around 2m of tubing there, and 2m of tubing back.

In one case, I will have a pump, a UT60 240mm radiator, a XT45 240mm and a reservoir, and in the other case, I will a CPU and GPU block, thats it.

So a round 1.5 meter in the first case, 3 meter between them (2 x 1.5m) and in the final, around 50cm

So around 5 or 6 meters in total, the highest the water will rise, and only once, is around 50cm, after that its downhill, untill another rise at the end of the tubing of around equal height.

For this sort of system, what pump or pumps would you recommend? Would a unconventional pond pump or something be better? I own a single D5 as of right now


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4mm3R2*
> 
> Looks amazing
> What size of these fitting? 13/19mm?
> Where can I buy such a fitting 90°?


They are EOL and only have but I'm looking where could I get them as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Thanks!! Yeah, those are 13/19mm fittings. The angled rotary fittings are all EK CSQ fittings, IMHO the sexiest rotary made! They have them on EK`s website and probably other places with some searching. I heard they don't make them anymore, not sure though. I got mine from a PC store here in Japan.
> 
> Here is the page for the 45`s (only ones left on the EK site):
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-adapter-45-g1-4-black


Is it online? Wonder if they ship to Europe as they are non available here anymore. Settled for 45 degree but would love to get 90 degree ones.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Still not complete, but getting close. Rig is up and running and temps under full load never hit 40C on both CPU and GPU. Ambient in the room is 30C or so (wifey is always cold!). Thought I would post up these pics for now and post completed when all the little stuff I want to do is done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!









You're saying 40c on both the CPU and GPU, what voltage/frequency?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What sort of distance can a single D5 pump, and will two, directly next to each other, increase this or simply add redundancy?
> 
> Basically, looking to pump water from one case to another, case will be about 1.5 to 2 meters away and use around 2m of tubing there, and 2m of tubing back.
> 
> In one case, I will have a pump, a UT60 240mm radiator, a XT45 240mm and a reservoir, and in the other case, I will a CPU and GPU block, thats it.
> 
> So a round 1.5 meter in the first case, 3 meter between them (2 x 1.5m) and in the final, around 50cm
> 
> So around 5 or 6 meters in total, the highest the water will rise, and only once, is around 50cm, after that its downhill, untill another rise at the end of the tubing of around equal height.
> 
> For this sort of system, what pump or pumps would you recommend? Would a unconventional pond pump or something be better? I own a single D5 as of right now


I'm using ~6.5m of hard tube but both of my pumps are not consecutive. One is at the beginning if the loop and the second a little bit up from about the halfway mark of the loop. If I shut one down I still get a decent but slower flow stream through the whole loop.

Maybe a 24V conversion for one pump only for both cases. There's guys that run external rads with a few meters of tube in there.

Is there a reason you can't run two discrete loops for each case? Are these gonna be running 24/7 btw?


----------



## PedroC1999

No, contemplating a case upgrade, however I would be keeping the other and putting it in a sub ambient closet, which is 5*+ colder than the main room. The radiators, pump and reservoir would be here, and would be linked to the water blocks in the main room. So moving all the heat and noise away from me


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> They are EOL and only have but I'm looking where could I get them as well.
> Is it online? Wonder if they ship to Europe as they are non available here anymore. Settled for 45 degree but would love to get 90 degree ones.


Correct, they are EOL. Here is the link to the store I use in Japan. Not sure if they ship outside of Japan though (I have an unfair advantage as my wife is Japanese) but just add to cart maybe and see if you can select the country.
http://www.coolinglab.jp/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=1466
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're saying 40c on both the CPU and GPU, what voltage/frequency?


Correct, with CPU the higher of the two. Playing BF4 or Rainbow Six Siege at ultra settings, I had 36C on GPU and 39C on CPU max with an ambient of around 30-31C in the room. My GPU is at stock clocks now (MSI 970 4G Gaming) and my i5 6600K is at 4.2Ghz and 1.25V.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Correct, with CPU the higher of the two. Playing BF4 or Rainbow Six Siege at ultra settings, I had 36C on GPU and 39C on CPU max with an ambient of around 30-31C in the room. My GPU is at stock clocks now (MSI 970 4G Gaming) and my i5 6600K is at 4.2Ghz and 1.25V.


how long did you have it stressed to get those temps?
how long had the pc already been running?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Correct, with CPU the higher of the two. Playing BF4 or Rainbow Six Siege at ultra settings, I had 36C on GPU and 39C on CPU max with an ambient of around 30-31C in the room. My GPU is at stock clocks now (MSI 970 4G Gaming) and my i5 6600K is at 4.2Ghz and 1.25V.


Im with Pc-Illiterate on this one. Those ambients are pretty high to have that low of a gpu temp. Although It is a 970.

TCO

After playing MGO about 12 hours, My temps went from a usual 42C top out to around 45C top out.

Ambients in the house were 24C


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> how long did you have it stressed to get those temps?
> how long had the pc already been running?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im with Pc-Illiterate on this one. Those ambients are pretty high to have that low of a gpu temp. Although It is a 970.
> 
> TCO
> 
> After playing MGO about 12 hours, My temps went from a usual 44-45C top out to around 48-49C top out.


That was playing for approx. 2 hours or so straight. Definitely not the end all be all, but still quite happy. The rig has only been going for about a week now or so. I just ran 3DMark11 and saw a max of 50C on one core, all others at 47C and a max of 44C on GPU.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> That was playing for approx. 2 hours or so straight. Definitely not the end all be all, but still quite happy. The rig has only been going for about a week now or so. I just ran 3DMark11 and saw a max of 50C on one core, all others at 47C and a max of 44C on GPU.


nope. lowest temp is 19*. ambient was not 30*

play some aida64 benching. have time proofs for temps and then ill believe.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Depending on the case - you can actually mount them on the inside so they effectively become invisible.
> 
> On my SMA8, I have intakes on the lower sides and top (none at the front). I ordered a custom set from Demciflex and these fit inside the panels so the filter frame and magnetic strip are completely hidden from view.
> 
> The are great in reducing the dust - been using them for quite some time now on my other PC (Corsair 900D) and I would not run a PC without them....


Yes, I have seen this and have been told by others at OCN they were able to put the filters on the inside. My ST10 will not allow it, save for the 120mm top cover. Even with the EK countersunk screws, I was unable to get the filter on the inside of the pedestal without the filter material pressing against the fans. But it's okay with me. I don't create show pieces. That is for those with more skill and creativity than I have!


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> nope. lowest temp is 19*. ambient was not 30*
> 
> play some aida64 benching. have time proofs for temps and then ill believe.


That was with heater in the house off, not ambient when I was running bench but not really concerned, not here to make anybody "believe".


----------



## Jidonsu

I finished my build a few days ago. There are still a few things I need to tinker with, namely cleaning up the sleeved cables, shortening the tube from the CPU block to the top radiator, and adding an LED strip in behind the top radiator and above the motherboard since I have a small giftcard at Newegg.

I also dumbly kicked my front panel across the floor the other night, scratching some of the paint and the acrylic window. I was already thinking about swaping out for some sort of grey glass after seeing Hardware Paul's video the other night, so this is an excuse to fix it. There is a small lip inside the panel those holds the acrylic window. Instead of taping a "larger than the opening" piece of glass to the panel and having it be not flush, I think I'm going to get a piece custom cut that I hope will just slip right into the opening, held under tension and some glass glue. I also think I'll use laminated glass instead of tempered since laminated won't break into pieces and will offer some sound proofing.


----------



## wermad

That looks awesome







. Which fittings are these?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Which fittings are these?


They look like Barrow fittings to me. Thats definitely a Barrow valve, less certain about the rest.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Which fittings are these?


They look like Barrow as mine have that tapered top also.


Very nice setup, can't wait to see pics with lighting!


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> They look like Barrow fittings to me. Thats definitely a Barrow valve, less certain about the rest.


Haha, beat me to it!


----------



## skypine27

Over 9,500 pages of e-peen?!?!

Ok...I'm a little late to the party. My first ever custom loop (after a couple of polishing passes):

5960x OC to 4.2
2 x Titan X OC +150 (nvidia ref cards)
8773 Firestrike Ultra:
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/10616596?

3 x Radiators: 120 mm rear, 360 mm top, 420 mm front intake.

Some pics are kind of sloppy quality sorry:

http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/image1_2.jpg.html
http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0263.jpg.html
http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0261.jpg.html
http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0256.jpg.html

(2 x RGB LED light strips with remote control allow for the diff colors)


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Yes, I have seen this and have been told by others at OCN they were able to put the filters on the inside. My ST10 will not allow it, save for the 120mm top cover. Even with the EK countersunk screws, I was unable to get the filter on the inside of the pedestal without the filter material pressing against the fans.


Don't think its the STH10 as my SMA8 has the exact same side panel dimensions (depth) IIRC.

Probably more to do with the design of the fans as some are a bit thinner/thicker than others and there is not all that much clearance between the cover and the fans.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Which fittings are these?


Thanks! They're all Barrow fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Res /Tray is fitted for the 901 finally.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Thanks! They're all Barrow fittings.


Where did you get the colored fittings? I can only find them on TaoBao.com


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skypine27*
> 
> Over 9,500 pages of e-peen?!?!
> 
> Ok...I'm a little late to the party. My first ever custom loop (after a couple of polishing passes):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 5960x OC to 4.2
> 2 x Titan X OC +150 (nvidia ref cards)
> 8773 Firestrike Ultra:
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/10616596?
> 
> 3 x Radiators: 120 mm rear, 360 mm top, 420 mm front intake.
> 
> Some pics are kind of sloppy quality sorry:
> 
> http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/image1_2.jpg.html
> http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0263.jpg.html
> http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0261.jpg.html
> http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0256.jpg.html
> 
> (2 x RGB LED light strips with remote control allow for the diff colors)


Looks awesome! My daughter was looking over my shoulder as she flew out to work and gave it, "OOOOOooooooH! That's PRETTY!" Whaddayawant?! She's a girl.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> *Don't think its the STH10 as my SMA8 has the exact same side panel dimensions (depth) IIRC*.
> 
> Probably more to do with the design of the fans as some are a bit thinner/thicker than others and there is not all that much clearance between the cover and the fans.


Not the SMA8 or STH10, but the Merlin ST10. It is a taller ten PCI slot version of the Merlin SM8. The ST10 is no longer being manufactured. I have no idea of the inside dimension clearances (in numbers). When mounting the base magnet to the inside of the panels and then putting the filter in place, the panel keepers will not solidly engage the snap things and fall off when I let go. Taking a look at it for a few minutes showed the filter material was pushed up against the fans.
It's no big deal really. My fans are AP15s, pretty average thickness 25mm +/- .002. My money is on the outside border thickness of my filters combined with the magnetic base thickness. Anyway! I really like Demciflex filters, will not run a water cooled system (read - rad fins) without them and prefer to have them in place on an air cooled system.



There's what is looks like (though I am sure you already know) - Anyone else who is wondering - "Thar she blows!" So there is no misunderstanding, the fans don't pull the filter material, it stays wonderfully taut, in place.


----------



## PedroC1999

Instead of the need for a secondary PSU, are there any UK Mains adapters that would let me plug a molex connector or two into it?


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Where did you get the colored fittings? I can only find them on TaoBao.com


There are a few sellers on aliexpress. I used Zero Water Cooling. You can also get them from Pccoolings on eBay if you're in the US.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Where did you get the colored fittings? I can only find them on TaoBao.com


I bought mine from this guy when i started:

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Rigid-Tube-Hard-Tube-Adapter-tooling/1480188_259495620.html

Or go to Dazmode.com and purchase from there. It seems like Darkside fittings are quite similar to Barrow fittings. I have fittings from both of them and they are quite similar.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> There are a few sellers on aliexpress. I used Zero Water Cooling. You can also get them from Pccoolings on eBay if you're in the US.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I bought mine from this guy when i started:
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Rigid-Tube-Hard-Tube-Adapter-tooling/1480188_259495620.html
> 
> Or go to Dazmode.com and purchase from there. It seems like Darkside fittings are quite similar to Barrow fittings. I have fittings from both of them and they are quite similar.


Nice thanks guys.

Have you happened to have now seen the brand BOOM? They seem to be a Chinese company making "knockoff" Bitspower fittings...or are they "ripping off" Barrow???

The world will never know how many licks it takes to get to the center of a Tootsie Roll Pop


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Where did you get the colored fittings? I can only find them on TaoBao.com


Like mentioned here, you can get them from PCCoolings on eBay but I got all mine from ModMyMods.com right in New York. Here is a link for ya!

https://modmymods.com/fittings.html?manufacturer=481


----------



## FXformat

Hey guys, quick question....i ordered the Pastel Ice White, but they sent me regular Pastel White instead...is there any difference? I want the whitest white possible, don't know if it's any different before i open it...thanks


----------



## VSG

Same thing. White is the nature color of that nanoparticule suspension, so it's the only color without dyes.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Same thing. White is the nature color of that nanoparticule suspension, so it's the only color without dyes.


Oh okay, just wanted to make sure i didn't get jibbed or anything...for some reason Ice White just sounds more white than regular white...thanks


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Like mentioned here, you can get them from PCCoolings on eBay but I got all mine from ModMyMods.com right in New York. Here is a link for ya!
> 
> https://modmymods.com/fittings.html?manufacturer=481


Ahh yeah these are hardline fittings. I want some colored compression fittings. I can find them on taobao, but not anywhere else...


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Ahh yeah these are hardline fittings. I want some colored compression fittings. I can find them on taobao, but not anywhere else...


Sorry, I am a little slow. You want hardline fittings or soft tubing compression? I got soft tubing compression fittings from there. Here is the link:
https://modmymods.com/fittings/1-2-id-x-3-4-od-compression-fittings.html?manufacturer=481

Of course there are different sizes there, just grabbed the ones I used.

Also, here is the link to PCCoolings Ebay Storefront, he has great prices too and has compression:
http://stores.ebay.com/PCcoolings?_rdc=1


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Sorry, I am a little slow. You want hardline fittings or soft tubing compression? I got soft tubing compression fittings from there. Here is the link:
> https://modmymods.com/fittings/1-2-id-x-3-4-od-compression-fittings.html?manufacturer=481
> 
> Of course there are different sizes there, just grabbed the ones I used.
> 
> Also, here is the link to PCCoolings Ebay Storefront, he has great prices too and has compression:
> http://stores.ebay.com/PCcoolings?_rdc=1


Yeah I am currently running the chrome soft tubing compression fittings. But on taobao, with a ton of translating, you can find the colored soft compression fittings.

Look's like I am going to have to get a passport so I can sign up for Alipay...Could make a stupid awesome storefront getting items (any items actually) from taobao....


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Yeah I am currently running the chrome soft tubing compression fittings. But on taobao, with a ton of translating, you can find the colored soft compression fittings.
> 
> Look's like I am going to have to get a passport so I can sign up for Alipay...Could make a stupid awesome storefront getting items (any items actually) from taobao....


What color and ID/OD are you looking for?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Not the SMA8 or STH10, but the Merlin ST10. It is a taller ten PCI slot version of the Merlin SM8. The ST10 is no longer being manufactured. I have no idea of the inside dimension clearances (in numbers). When mounting the base magnet to the inside of the panels and then putting the filter in place, the panel keepers will not solidly engage the snap things and fall off when I let go. Taking a look at it for a few minutes showed the filter material was pushed up against the fans.
> It's no big deal really. My fans are AP15s, pretty average thickness 25mm +/- .002. My money is on the outside border thickness of my filters combined with the magnetic base thickness.


OK - I misread that you have the ST10 rather than the STH10...

WRT the outside filter frame fouling on the fans, in my case I ordered a custom set of filters which I specifically ordered to be over-sized.

In my case the filter frames clear the actual fans so the added thickness is not an issue in regards to clearance.

Here is one of my SMA8 side covers....

Note that the magnetic strip is well clear of the actual vent holes and therefore well clear of the actual fan frames when its mounted up against them.


Filter fitted to inside of cover............


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> What color and ID/OD are you looking for?


Blue - 1/2 x 3/4


----------



## PedroC1999

How much power would a D5 and 5 fans take up?

And could said amount be run off 1 single Molex?


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Blue - 1/2 x 3/4


I have never seen blue Barrow fittings. All I can find is white/black/silver.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> How much power would a D5 and 5 fans take up?
> 
> And could said amount be run off 1 single Molex?


A D5 should be around 20W and lets say 2W/fan(depends on what fan really): ~30W

Molex is rated for 132W, so you're good.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> A D5 should be around 20W and lets say 2W/fan(depends on what fan really): ~30W
> 
> Molex is rated for 132W, so you're good.


Has there ever been made a Molex extender over 1m? I would need roughly 2m to make this seperate cooling case work.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Has there ever been made a Molex extender over 1m? I would need roughly 2m to make this seperate cooling case work.


Rad box? I need to either make an extension or buy a little PSU to power 9 fans and a fan controller. I haz one of these...


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> A D5 should be around 20W and lets say 2W/fan(depends on what fan really): ~30W
> 
> Molex is rated for 132W, so you're good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has there ever been made a Molex extender over 1m? I would need roughly 2m to make this seperate cooling case work.
Click to expand...

Yup, I work with them much longer than that on CNC machines and 3D printers.


----------



## wermad

I've made custom molex lines, two as long as 6' (~2m), though they were only running one ground and 12v. 18awg seems pretty robust and I would say it should be fine for that distance. You can always get some 16 awg if you're wanting that piece of mind. Pins are cheap, and so are the connectors, and most electronic places and hardware stores carry wire (or just get it online).

edit: forgot, you'll need a crimping tool btw.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Has there ever been made a Molex extender over 1m? I would need roughly 2m to make this seperate cooling case work.


You could just make one yourself, its pretty easy and probably cheaper.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> edit: forgot, you'll need a crimping tool btw.


You can also do it with some fine nose pliers if you're cheap


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Rad box? I need to either make an extension or buy a little PSU to power 9 fans and a fan controller. I haz one of these...


Nope, buying a new, 'pretty' case to house my components, but leaving the radiators, pump and reservoir in my old case, situated in another, colder, room to lower temps and remove noise. The pretty case will have the water blocks hardlined.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've made custom molex lines, two as long as 6' (~2m), though they were only running one ground and 12v. 18awg seems pretty robust and I would say it should be fine for that distance. You can always get some 16 awg if you're wanting that piece of mind. Pins are cheap, and so are the connectors, and most electronic places and hardware stores carry wire (or just get it online).
> 
> edit: forgot, you'll need a crimping tool btw.


Thank you, will check it out!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You could just make one yourself, its pretty easy and probably cheaper.
> You can also do it with some fine nose pliers if you're cheap


This is the most likely solution


----------



## wermad

If you have a shop that specializes in electronic parts and components, they may have one of these:



it was inexpensive and it actually works pretty decent (used for atx pins, fan pins, molex pins, sata pins, & dupont pins).

I bought this one for cheap but still more then the one above and it seems a bit finicky. So rarely use it.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You can also do it with some fine nose pliers if you're cheap










that's an alternative. I bought a decent wire stripper at a big-box hardware store and the ends can crimp on molex pins with a little bit of effort to avoid bending the pins back


----------



## Azefore

Got in parts for my first rigid tubing attempt, main components will be a place holder until Broadwell-E/Pascal, but excited to give it a shot.


----------



## FXformat

Wow Bitspower...bad Quality control or just random bad luck on my part? Been waiting for these 16mm tubing for a week, finally got it, but the bending rod they sent me was too small...i needed a 12mm, i got an 11mm...it's so small that i can just put it in the tube and it'll slide to the other side without any effort. Bending rods are supposed to fit like sex with a virgin, i'm siting here throwing a pencil down a mine shaft.

I didn't even know 11mm bending insert exist, for what size tubing are they used for?

clearly 11mm, barely 11mm i'm rounding up


this gap bigger than Madonna's teeth


smaller tube is a perfect 90 degree bend, the bigger tube has a collapsed pocket where the smaller rod did not hold shape


This is how a bending rod is supposed to fit, you pretty much have to lube it up and force it in, or you'll tear something..


*Sigh*, i have to finish this and deliver it to this guy too...now i dont know when they'll send me a replacement...sorry just ranting, was gonna finish this real quick then hit the clubs but now i just want to sleep...


----------



## wermad

That's weird and I only see 10 and 12mm @ ppcs.com. It could be the manufacturing variance and I've seen it plenty of times with soft tube.

If you got it at ppcs.com, chances are they won't help and will direct you to BP. Somewhere else, see if they can send you another one that's 12mm or very close.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Bending rods are supposed to fit like sex with a virgin,


No,they are not.

Although that is a bit loose,it will bend tube just fine. That bigger one deformed because you didnt heat a big enough area,hence that drawn look it has.


----------



## PedroC1999

What fittings, preferably white and with a clean design, would you recommend for hard line tubing? Preferably also with 90* angles within the same range.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,they are not.
> 
> Although that is a bit loose,it will bend tube just fine. That bigger one deformed because you didnt heat a big enough area,hence that drawn look it has.


I thought that was the case as well, but i just did it 2x more and this time heat in a wider area, i'm still getting the same result...the insert is too thin to keep the shape of the tubing...i've never had this issue with the other rod where it fits in there tight. i'll stop by home depot today and see if they have something like this in a 12mm.


----------



## wiretap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I thought that was the case as well, but i just did it 2x more and this time heat in a wider area, i'm still getting the same result...the insert is too thin to keep the shape of the tubing...i've never had this issue with the other rod where it fits in there tight. i'll stop by home depot today and see if they have something like this in a 12mm.


I had that exact same problem with hard tubing.. I ordered from PPC's and the rubber tube I ordered to assist with bending was too small and caused my hard line to have the same ****ty characteristics when I heated it up and bent it. I definitely heated a large enough area as well.. it wasn't my first time bending hard line tubing.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> I had that exact same problem with hard tubing.. I ordered from PPC's and the rubber tube I ordered to assist with bending was too small and caused my hard line to have the same ****ty characteristics when I heated it up and bent it. I definitely heated a large enough area as well.. it wasn't my first time bending hard line tubing.


Yeah i thought i messed up at first but i remembered i've bent over 100 tubes lately, and my failure rate is pretty much 0% now. This was a simple 90 degree bend...what did you end up doing? Did they send you a replacement? I need to finish my computer by this weekend and now it looks like that's not happening unless home depot has a 12mm silicon tube, i'll raid their plumbing section later.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Hey there! Ive decided to take my first water cooling experienced and couple that with a kraken g10 and a gtx 780 lightning. So far everything has been perfect for the past week. idle temps around 20 celcius and never over 45 when gaming. However this morning i was shocked when i pulled up after burner and saw my gpu was at almost 90 celcius idle. so i knew it was an issue with the water cooler(h100). Pump light works fine and i even tested 12v going to the pump.

So after doing more research i discovered it could possible be "air in the pump" Sure enough i powered on my computer, titled it and behold the water started to flow. SO, im assuming this has to do with the way I have this setup which is wront because my rad is lower than my pump? Would i be able to move the rad up 120mm to the next fan spot?

Thank for all your help!


----------



## wiretap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Yeah i thought i messed up at first but i remembered i've bent over 100 tubes lately, and my failure rate is pretty much 0% now. This was a simple 90 degree bend...what did you end up doing? Did they send you a replacement? I need to finish my computer by this weekend and now it looks like that's not happening unless home depot has a 12mm silicon tube, i'll raid their plumbing section later.


I just ended up putting in soft tubing until I order more hard tubing supplies.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I thought that was the case as well, but i just did it 2x more and this time heat in a wider area, i'm still getting the same result...the insert is too thin to keep the shape of the tubing...i've never had this issue with the other rod where it fits in there tight. i'll stop by home depot today and see if they have something like this in a 12mm.


Try mcmastercarr. I used them for my first attempt on 1/2x3/8 tube. I got a fractionally smaller rod and it did the trick the only issue was that it was so tight I ended up using olive oil as the rod would get stuck. I was free-hand bending with just a few pieces of large diameter large pvc tube for forming.

In my opinion, the outcome was very poor for my needs (and standards) so I shelved the idea until recently and went with all angle fittings (Barrow).


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Just a thought, but the Primochill tubing is a little larger than 12mm, 12.7mm OD or 1/2". Their silicone rubber bending rod fits fairly tight in that tubing, I had to lube up with dishwashing soap to slide it back in after a bend. So if you want a tighter fit on 12mm OD, you might try the Primochill one. Or it might be the exact same thing as the others, it's the only one I have so I can't compare.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160227_202726.jpg.html

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160227_173815.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

That came out pretty sick dude







.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That came out pretty sick dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Cheers, should of been completed in 2 weeks , not to months. Haha . new born sun has gained some knowledge at least









Wishing i could of got ahold of the new swiftech AIO. Cant see the Mayhems blood red


----------



## apw63

I have reconfigured my plumbing and fans. I switched the RAD fans in the pedestal to the outside of the RADs with air blowing in. I also added 3 exhaust fans. I configured the inlet and outlet on the RADs to help improve air bubble removal, in at the bottom out at the top. The drain has been reconfigured due this rework. I changed the route in the upper section to, RAD, CPU, MEM, VRM then VC. I looks like i picked at a degree or 2 with the new configuration.

I'm getting a 5 degree delta after 35 min of stressing, CPU & GPU fully loaded with AIDA64. I'm very happy with the results.


----------



## Kimir

It wasn't needed to put filters on the exhaust, imo.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It wasn't needed to put filters on the exhaust, imo.


I was thinking the same ... but they don't look too bad. I absolutely love the location of the air temp sensor.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Hanging out of the Aqua filter.



Also ... aren't you slightly nervous with the drain valves 'hanging out' like that?


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It wasn't needed to put filters on the exhaust, imo.


Yea I know but I had them, I was thinking it kind of give the case an even finished look..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I was thinking the same ... but they don't look too bad. I absolutely love the location of the air temp sensor.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hanging out of the Aqua filter.
> 
> 
> 
> Also ... aren't you slightly nervous with the drain valves 'hanging out' like that?


Thanks, the air temp sensor location was kind of an accident. I drilled an extra un needed hole when prepping the filter mount. The drain valves are on the back. The case sit where there is no access to the back. It has to be wheeled out to get to. I'm not worried,but I did think about it.

For the person that gave me rep. There are 2 programs at work monitoring. The first one is aquasuite the other is AIDA64. Aquasuite can be use as a stand along program but is designed to be used with an aquareo. AIDA64 is a stand alone program. AIDA64 does have a nice monitoring panel function. The panel function has to be activated, then you have to build it. It's not to difficult just takes time.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Nope, buying a new, 'pretty' case to house my components, but leaving the radiators, pump and reservoir in my old case, situated in another, colder, room to lower temps and remove noise. The pretty case will have the water blocks hardlined.
> Thank you, will check it out!
> This is the most likely solution


I think a radiator box would be the best use of your rads and time, unless the other case is housing loads of HDDs etc for a NAS storage solution? Will you be doing a build log on this or something I can keep an eye on? It sounds interesting.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I think a radiator box would be the best use of your rads and time, unless the other case is housing loads of HDDs etc for a NAS storage solution? Will you be doing a build log on this or something I can keep an eye on? It sounds interesting.


Yes I will be. If you subscribe to my The Lucky Eight build log, it'll be announced in there and a link to where it will be.

No, I already have all the radiators, I just need the clean look of a new case and the ability to hard line a whole case like the 810, is daunting. So I've kept it simple as using this method I need 2 straight runs of hard line, as opposed to 8 or more complex ones if the whole 810 were to be done.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160227_202726.jpg.html
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160227_173815.jpg.html


I hope you go up for mod of the month. That is just nice looking, even if the CPU is air cooled.


----------



## Revan654

Are these fittings tight enough or should they be tighter?




Anyone have tips of tightening fittings? My thumbs already sore and I barely started.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Are these fittings tight enough or should they be tighter?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have tips of tightening fittings? My thumbs already sore and I barely started.


Get some low profile working gloves.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Are these fittings tight enough or should they be tighter?
> 
> Anyone have tips of tightening fittings? My thumbs already sore and I barely started.


Those look tight enough to me. You will always have a gap on compression fittings because of the tubing. Also, don't use any tools, just hand tight or they could compress to much and leak by ruining the lower o rings. I'm sure someone else will chime in though. The best way to check is perform a leak test.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> Anyone have tips of tightening fittings? My thumbs already sore and I barely started.


Remember that the collar is there to simply hold the tube on preventing it from popping off. It does not have any bearing on how well the tubing seals.

The barb itself is what seals against the tubing not the collar.

As long as it is tight enough to prevent the tubing from pulling off then that is all you require. Finger tight is usually all you require and the gap you show is quite normal (it will vary with tubing wall thickness variations).

Below is one of my Bitspower compressions with Advanced LRT tubing - Note the gap yet you cannot pull the tubing off...!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I got a question for you guys.

Seeing there's some GPU all in one cooling coming out now and we have heaps of good CPU all in ones out, how would a pc with a custom loop vs all in one fair when cooling a single CPU & GPU?

(I also mean in a fair test, 480mm rad total for both no extra unnecessary crap like motherboard and RAM and no stupid thick 60mm rads for the custom.)


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I hope you go up for mod of the month. That is just nice looking, even if the CPU is air cooled.


Thank, air cooler was for looks but not doong so bad @ 4.6ghz

Didnt know there was a mod of the month haha


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160227_202726.jpg.html
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160227_173815.jpg.html


Ugh, that is siiiick. I love the air cooler with the swiftech on the GPU's. Ever thought about hitting that swiftech with white plasti-dip?


----------



## wermad

Careful turning those comp fittings too tight as the ring can start cutting into the soft tube. Doesn't happen all the time but it could. Turning by hand as best as you can is usually enough and just expect gaps with the thicker tube wall.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Ugh, that is siiiick. I love the air cooler with the swiftech on the GPU's. Ever thought about hitting that swiftech with white plasti-dip?


Thanks









Wouldnt of coated the rad white as wanted to keep a split balance between white and black. White Wing Boost 2s my go up the front to add a bit of white between the rad though.

Really thought the blood red would of shown up in the swiftech res , and couldnt score the new X2 in the uk for a while which would of looked miles better


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I have reconfigured my plumbing and fans. I switched the RAD fans in the pedestal to the outside of the RADs with air blowing in. I also added 3 exhaust fans. I configured the inlet and outlet on the RADs to help improve air bubble removal, in at the bottom out at the top. The drain has been reconfigured due this rework. I changed the route in the upper section to, RAD, CPU, MEM, VRM then VC. I looks like i picked at a degree or 2 with the new configuration.
> 
> I'm getting a 5 degree delta after 35 min of stressing, CPU & GPU fully loaded with AIDA64. I'm very happy with the results.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Outstanding! I very much like the tubing work.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldnt of coated the rad white as wanted to keep a split balance between white and black. White Wing Boost 2s my go up the front to add a bit of white between the rad though.
> 
> Really thought the blood red would of shown up in the swiftech res , and couldnt score the new X2 in the uk for a while which would of looked miles better


No it's fine. It's beautiful actually. All the colors are just smooth together. Black, white, red - doesn't matter - it's beast.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Outstanding! I very much like the tubing work.


Thank you!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160227_202726.jpg.html
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160227_173815.jpg.html


Easily one of the best air/CLC rigs I have seen in a while. You could vinyl wrap the H240X red/white without taking it out of the case (vs plastidip).


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I got a question for you guys.
> 
> Seeing there's some GPU all in one cooling coming out now and we have heaps of good CPU all in ones out, how would a pc with a custom loop vs all in one fair when cooling a single CPU & GPU?
> 
> (I also mean in a fair test, 480mm rad total for both no extra unnecessary crap like motherboard and RAM and no stupid thick 60mm rads for the custom.)


I think custom would still be better. One pump for everything, shared rads. real reservoir. I spent a lot of time researching each component to make sure I got exactly what I was looking for in a system. I was looking for a quiet build with reliable good performing components that were also durable. I picked 280 rads and ultra quiet fans, acetyl components, and a D5 pump. It's inaudible even under full loads. Some of the better looking builds use plexi components. Some people don't care about noise and have lots of fast fans and thick rads. It's that freedom to choose that makes custom so great. I feel with an AIO (or multiple AIOs) you are very confined with what you get. If you got a custom setup done and found you needed more rad space , or wanted to swap out a block, you could, not so with AIOs.

Cooling like for like would probably be similar with similar rad volumes, but the freedom is a factor you have to consider. I enjoyed making my first loop and wouldn't trade the experience for anything. That's my take on it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I think custom would still be better. One pump for everything, shared rads. real reservoir. I spent a lot of time researching each component to make sure I got exactly what I was looking for in a system. I was looking for a quiet build with reliable good performing components that were also durable. I picked 280 rads and ultra quiet fans, acetyl components, and a D5 pump. It's inaudible even under full loads. Some of the better looking builds use plexi components. Some people don't care about noise and have lots of fast fans and thick rads. It's that freedom to choose that makes custom so great. I feel with an AIO (or multiple AIOs) you are very confined with what you get. If you got a custom setup done and found you needed more rad space , or wanted to swap out a block, you could, not so with AIOs.
> 
> Cooling like for like would probably be similar with similar rad volumes, but the freedom is a factor you can't have to consider. I enjoyed making my first loop and wouldn't trade the experience for anything. That's my take on it.


Everything this man said, bar thicker rads being noisier lol rads are normally thicker to make up for having less fin density so you can run slower fans meaning less noise. Thin rads and AIO rads are normally dual density fin stacks. That's from my experience anyway, I'm more than welcome to be corrected if this is incorrect however. I'm no master and I've only built 2 loops so far, the 3rd will be over the next week.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Easily one of the best air/CLC rigs I have seen in a while. You could vinyl wrap the H240X red/white without taking it out of the case (vs plastidip).


Thanks








Think ill leave the rad colour but if i can get an x2 version i would swap it in a heart beat. Clear res would rrally complete the look


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Everything this man said, bar thicker rads being noisier lol rads are normally thicker to make up for having less fin density so you can run slower fans meaning less noise. Thin rads and AIO rads are normally dual density fin stacks. That's from my experience anyway, I'm more than welcome to be corrected if this is incorrect however. I'm no master and I've only built 2 loops so far, the 3rd will be over the next week.


thicker rads are to dissipate more heat thats it. thick and thin rads both have both high and low count fin density. thicker rads 'need' higher rpm fans to push the air a greater distance.through the rad the same as high fin density rads.


----------



## FXformat

Got a new Monoblock for the Asus Gene and went with 16mm Rigid Tubing. Quick pics before i clean up the cable management and custom sleeve it...PPCS sent me the wrong insert so the bends look like ass right now. I just wanted to rig it up anyways for practice, when they send me a new bending rod, I'm redoing the loop, and find a way to get a hardline from the pump to the rad....i haven't figured it out yet.







My setup, minimalistic look


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love the look of the larger hardline, I would change to larger but I'm already invested with soon many fittings. So might do a copper and acrylic Mashup


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Got a new Monoblock for the Asus Gene and went with 16mm Rigid Tubing. Quick pics before i clean up the cable management and custom sleeve it...PPCS sent me the wrong insert so the bends look like ass right now. I just wanted to rig it up anyways for practice, when they send me a new bending rod, I'm redoing the loop, and find a way to get a hardline from the pump to the rad....i haven't figured it out yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My setup, minimalistic look


I really like that.. Far better then i can do. I hope my build looks half as good.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Got a new Monoblock for the Asus Gene and went with 16mm Rigid Tubing. Quick pics before i clean up the cable management and custom sleeve it...PPCS sent me the wrong insert so the bends look like ass right now. I just wanted to rig it up anyways for practice, when they send me a new bending rod, I'm redoing the loop, and find a way to get a hardline from the pump to the rad....i haven't figured it out yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My setup, minimalistic look


Looks amazing! What monitor is that?


----------



## DaClownie

A progress picture for my build... next on the docket? First attempt at bending hardline tubing











This Air 240, while proving to be a bit frustrating... is starting to come together. Sleeved wires will be getting combs applied soon until they're "trained" to the right shape, solid white tubing for the tube runs, and I need to fit a 240mm radiator in the rear area of the case... Can't wait to play some games on this mini monster


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I really like that.. Far better then i can do. I hope my build looks half as good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Looks amazing! What monitor is that?


Thanks fellow tuners!

The monitor is some no name Korean monitor, it's the AMH A399U, 40" 4K, Chroma 4:4:4, 60hz refresh rate...only cost me $500, very good monitor and i highly recommend it if you have the hardware for 4K.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o553bTyFElQ

This guy knows his hardware, so i bought one per his recommendation and i couldn't be happier. Since i don't play games that require 144 billion FPS, this monitor suits my needs. I play action RPGs and car racing games so this was more than enough in performance.


----------



## brazilianloser

Anyone can recommend state side companies other than Ensourced or Sanctum that make custom sleeved cables (not extensions)??? Re-doing the loop anyways thought I would get me some but those two are a bit backed up it seems.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone can recommend state side companies other than Ensourced or Sanctum that make custom sleeved cables (not extensions)??? Re-doing the loop anyways thought I would get me some but those two are a bit backed up it seems.


Icemodz is located in Iceland but they ship worldwide. Mundi does some amazing work. Check out my build called "Project mATX" to see some of his work.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone can recommend state side companies other than Ensourced or Sanctum that make custom sleeved cables (not extensions)??? Re-doing the loop anyways thought I would get me some but those two are a bit backed up it seems.


and just for the record: Ensourced does full replacement cables for the psu. Is not an exentsion and you don't need the original cables you just replace them with the new one made by Ensourced.


----------



## emsj86

Speaking of it. My cables were alittle short (my fault not measuring correctly) but thinking of changing them up what pattern or colors do you guys recommend. (There Icemodz right now and have Say there straight from the psu set for under 100 is a steal.)


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> and just for the record: Ensourced does full replacement cables for the psu. Is not an exentsion and you don't need the original cables you just replace them with the new one made by Ensourced.


Yeah went with these guys. They were backed up according to their site but after sending a question the guy said they could fit in my order since all I need is the 24 and two 8 pins. Well to wait now. No rush anyways since my mobo is in mid RMA anyways...


----------



## SteezyTN

Just wondering if anyone can help me out. I have my XSPC PWM pump using a Bitspower mod kit. Its connected to my XSPC d5 photon 270 pump/res. Now that I have three pumps, I'm trying to run the pumps quietly. I can get two of the pumps running 2700 RPM, but when I run the XSPC PWM pump at 2700, its a lot louder.

Whats the best way to install the bitspower mod kit? tighten it all the way, or leave it a little loose, but tight enough?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> thicker rads are to dissipate more heat thats it. thick and thin rads both have both high and low count fin density. thicker rads 'need' higher rpm fans to push the air a greater distance.through the rad the same as high fin density rads.


I haven't had a low FPI 30mm thick rad, all of mine have been very high density and make more noise than my monsta or my UT45 which I'm able to run my fans a lot lower at, maybe I'm doing something wrong?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Thank, air cooler was for looks but not doong so bad @ 4.6ghz
> 
> Didnt know there was a mod of the month haha


There used to be. It's been MIA for some time as the new management gets everything completely ironed out, but it would be really nice to see it return again, even if just for bragging rights.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> There used to be. It's been MIA for some time as the new management gets everything completely ironed out, but it would be really nice to see it return again, even if just for bragging rights.


Have you seen this? http://www.overclock.net/t/1592748/mod-of-the-month-march-april-2016-were-back


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> There used to be. It's been MIA for some time as the new management gets everything completely ironed out, but it would be really nice to see it return again, even if just for bragging rights.


Thanks









The cpu cooler is bugging me as fans should be in push config so hitting some of the white detail on the mobo.
But finding it hard to get the 120mm versions of the White/Red , white/black thats PWM


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Have you seen this? http://www.overclock.net/t/1592748/mod-of-the-month-march-april-2016-were-back


Doesnt say were you nominate ....
Seen one of two cracking builds id love to put up, specially the all white s340. Had me drooling


----------



## AresTheGod

Hi guys, just have a little question.
As I can see on installation manual of my WB CPU from EK ( the WB is EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 115x ) they say that improper installation of the EK TIM Indigo Extreme will result in poor thermal performance.
So I can't use thermal paste or I would get bad temperatures or not?
Thanks!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> There used to be. It's been MIA for some time as the new management gets everything completely ironed out, but it would be really nice to see it return again, even if just for bragging rights.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you seen this? http://www.overclock.net/t/1592748/mod-of-the-month-march-april-2016-were-back
Click to expand...

Should have let it stay bloody dead . . . .

Darlene


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hi guys, just have a little question.
> As I can see on installation manual of my WB CPU from EK ( the WB is EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 115x ) they say that improper installation of the EK TIM Indigo Extreme will result in poor thermal performance.
> So I can't use thermal paste or I would get bad temperatures or not?
> Thanks!


No, you have to use thermal paste. What it is saying is that if you put it on in a fashion other than that of what EK recommends in the instructions, you might have bad temps.

Long story short... Just follow the thermal paste instructions.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Should have let it stay bloody dead . . . .
> 
> Darlene


Until they sort the voting,I agree.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Have you seen this? http://www.overclock.net/t/1592748/mod-of-the-month-march-april-2016-were-back


Not until now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Should have let it stay bloody dead . . . .
> 
> Darlene


I have to agree. Why is there no requirement for actual work to be completed? It's called mod of the month, not "oh look, I'm good at making a minimalistic build where the only thing I actually modified was the hard tubing, and that's because they come in 1m lengths, and even then I didn't bend it" of the month.

Was so frustrating to see builds people had put dozens or even hundreds of hours of work into actually modifying the case (plus doing custom paint jobs, and building a variety of supports from scratch) lose to others that had an army of followers but hadn't really even modified the case after it was taken out if the box.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Not until now.
> I have to agree. Why is there no requirement for actual work to be completed? It's called mod of the month, not "oh look, I'm good at making a minimalistic build where the only thing I actually modified was the hard tubing, and that's because they come in 1m lengths, and even then I didn't bend it" of the month.
> 
> *Was so frustrating to see builds people had put dozens or even hundreds of hours of work into actually modifying the case (plus doing custom paint jobs, and building a variety of supports from scratch) lose to others that had an army of followers but hadn't really even modified the case after it was taken out if the box.*












God forbid if you ever point this out tho........


----------



## orbitalwalsh

In theory is should be;
Rig of the month - under the whole umbrella of asthetics/mods/clean build etc
Mod of the Month - solely focusing on the Mod

Guessing each could be split into 2/3 sub groups if needed but anymore ends up a mess.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I nice breakpoint between price and performance are the Corsair SP120's as well... They don't perform as well as the vardars, but they can be had for considerably less. I purchased Corsair SP120 quiet edition PWM twin packs for $28 shipped, compared to vardars @ $18/ea + shipping from PPCS or EKWB directly.
> 
> After it's all said and done, that saved me about $45 on my 8 fans I ordered. It all depends if those couple degrees on load temperatures make or break what you're trying to do.


I am swapping out all my SP120s for NFF12 fans. I am sick of replacing one or two SP120s every few months as they develop an annoying clicking noise.


----------



## snef

Here we go. , start this again
If your vision of modding don't match the one of the contest, don't oarticipate and don't read the thread of mod of the month

And seriously, it's exactly what I will do with this never ending story of mod of the month


----------



## DaClownie

Got some better lighting to take pics this morning... tubing starts today


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> God forbid if you ever point this out tho........


It's like they don't like the suggestion and can't understand why every other competitor of theirs (aka website/forum that does motm) has a few extra rules that actually enforces the very first word: modification.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> In theory is should be;
> Rig of the month - under the whole umbrella of asthetics/mods/clean build etc
> Mod of the Month - solely focusing on the Mod
> 
> Guessing each could be split into 2/3 sub groups if needed but anymore ends up a mess.


I definitely agree. This way we can actually have those who do custom work and modifications in the mod of the month while the builds that fall under "great builds" would have their own section and contest.

Some might argue it's splitting hairs, but then the motm would actually wind up following the spirit of the words it uses.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Here we go. , start this again
> If your vision of modding don't match the one of the contest, don't oarticipate and don't read the thread of mod of the month
> 
> And seriously, it's exactly what I will do with this never ending story of mod of the month


It isn't hard to pull up the definition of modification and/or modding as we live in an online world. Putting a few tiny holes to mount a reservoir is NOT case modding, and therefore should not apply to the motm. Any person could take a bunch of parts and put them into a case, and with enough planning and preparation can make it look good, but it takes a certain willingness to take a several hundred dollar case (or even better, a $50 case) and then come out with something absolutely amazing in the end that barely resembles what it was when it came out of the box.

Feel free to think my initial comment was directly aimed at you, but it was a general statement about how this is pretty much the only site that does an motm competition and allows it to be so heavily diluted that a weekend's worth of work putting parts into a case qualifies a person to not only enter, but have a good chance of winning. I have seen so many builds entered in where very little work was done by the actual person, with most of the hard work farmed out. Once again, not directly targeting any particular person with this statement but it's more of a general statement given a number of builds I've seen entered into the competition, many of which were builds I had personally followed and very much so loved but when they put their names into the ring I wound up not voting for them due to there being no mods.

I have no problem with people coming up with an idea, doing most of the legwork themselves, and then asking for help with something complicated that requires machinery they themselves do not have access to. Laser cutting and intricate cnc work can look outright gorgeous but naturally not everyone can afford the several thousand dollars to acquire a good machine. Other great things are taking cases that don't have 360/420mm (or even any) radiator support, bringing such in and then making it look like a stock case (sleeper builds for lack of a better term), making a case reverse atx (not an easy feat with most cases), or going full blown crazy (witcher mod case, most of bneg's shoehorn builds (matx into an mitx case requires a ton of custom parts), and a bunch of others that don't immediately come to mind due to my kettle having broken so I didn't get a morning coffee)....

To me (and interestingly enough, the motm rules of several other websites), it isn't really a case mod if a dremel, sawzall, band saw, jigsaw or other equivalent cutting tool didn't come out to play. Bonus points if sandpaper (or a powered sander of some sort) comes into play and you spray your own multiple layered, hard to photograph paint onto the case.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> It's like they don't like the suggestion and can't understand why every other competitor of theirs (aka website/forum that does motm) has a few extra rules that actually enforces the very first word: modification.


Exactly.

Mod of the month should mean exactly that.

Even more so as a sponsored builder,you should be pushing your skills to my mind anyway.

For example: IT Diva's Stretch build. Not my cup of tea at all and she knows this. Does she mind? No,because she is adult about it and knows I know how much work went into that build. Would I vote for it? Hell yes,because there are many new things in that build,things that test a mechanically minded person and show great ingenuity.
This is what MOTM should mean.

Not how good you are with a printer.

Just my







Like it....or not.


----------



## snef

It's your opinion and respect it
But it's Your opinion

It didn't mean you do a complete new case with a 50$ case it will be pleasant to look

I don't take personally because I alway said I'm a builder not a modder, and only one of my build was in motm because another person put it in the contest

And if someone don't like what I did , just pass to next post and forget me, just Lazy of poeple said your build its mod a réal mod

I just don't understand why if someone think about modding need to be this way , the rest of the world need to follow or it's not modding


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I just don't understand why if someone think about modding need to be this way , the rest of the world need to follow or it's not modding


Explain?

What 'someone'? This is a universal issue dealt with on many forums easily but not OCN....which is what we are discussing.


----------



## ruffhi

I have two questions, one serious and one not. I need to cut a section (about 25mm x 50mm) out of the base of my CaseLabs S5 pedestal, so ...

Q1: How do I cut it? Scissors? Dremal? Fold multiple times until it snaps? Hacksaw? Other?
Q2: Will this qualify my build as a mod?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Just in case you were wondering ... Q1 is the serious one, Q2 is tne not so serious one.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have two questions, one serious and one not. I need to cut a section (about 25mm x 50mm) out of the base of my CaseLabs S5 pedestal, so ...
> 
> Q1: How do I cut it? Scissors? Dremal? Fold multiple times until it snaps? Hacksaw? Other?
> Q2: Will this qualify my build as a mod?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just in case you were wondering ... Q1 is the serious one, Q2 is tne not so serious one.


Using a jigsaw is probably the easiest way.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have two questions, one serious and one not. I need to cut a section (about 25mm x 50mm) out of the base of my CaseLabs S5 pedestal, so ...
> 
> Q1: How do I cut it? Scissors? Dremal? Fold multiple times until it snaps? Hacksaw? Other?
> Q2: Will this qualify my build as a mod?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just in case you were wondering ... Q1 is the serious one, Q2 is tne not so serious one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Using a jigsaw is probably the easiest way.


I echo Gilles3000 suggestion. I use a jigsaw over a Dremel for control. If you don't have an issue maintain control over the Dremel Tool, use it. The choice is yours, neither tool is "wrong."

Use jigsaw blades specifically for cutting soft metal for best results.
Tape it off, draw your cutting marks on the tape
Drill a hole inside the area you are going to cut out large enough to insert the jigsaw blade to get started


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Please little baby
> 
> Pass away over my post , I don't talk to you
> 
> Again. You don't like what I do and did don't look at it and pass over it
> 
> I don't like you and you don't like me, why you still answer my post or make any comment
> 
> I repeat. I don't give a **** what you think
> 
> Maybe I use only a printer but seem more poeple like what I did than what you did
> 
> AGAIN IM A BUILDER NOT A MODDER
> Please forgive me ass hole


Lol.

I never said I didnt like you (Dear God,are we still in school?!??!),you just sulk after being critiqued....which is so obviously true. This is the difference between you and everybody else,instead of taking criticism on board,you fly off on a rant.

And if you feel that way then put me on ignore or just dont post here,stop with the amateur dramatics tho either way yeah? Get along or move along.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Honestly I would love to enter the contest with my SMA8 so I could try to land a free Flame Overclock.net account so I can finally change the header below my name. (Above the avatar)

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Honestly I would love to enter the contest with my SMA8 so I could try to land a free Flame Overclock.net account so I can finally change the header below my name. (Above the avatar)
> 
> TCO


Do it,enter yourself. Whats stopping you?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do it,enter yourself. Whats stopping you?


But the build was finished a while ago Neg.... Can I do that?

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> But the build was finished a while ago Neg.... Can I do that?
> 
> TCO


Im sure there are a few builds that are older because of the hiatus,ask Gappo for clarification but I would enter it anyway and see what happens.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im sure there are a few builds that are older because of the hiatus,ask Gappo for clarification but I would enter it anyway and see what happens.


I tagged el gappo. I am down to try. If people want to say things about my build, oh well. Ill let it roll off of my back









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I tagged el gappo. I am down to try. If people want to say things about my build, oh well. Ill let it roll off of my back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Only if its worthless info,you never know...someone may hand you a great idea to run with.


----------



## Questors

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Mod = Modify

Modify:
Verb
1. to change some parts of (something) while not changing other parts

Transitive verb
1. to make less extreme : moderate
2a. to limit or restrict the meaning of especially in a grammatical construction
2b. to change (a vowel) by umlaut

3a. to make minor changes in
3b. to make basic or fundamental changes in often to give a new orientation to or to serve a new end

Intransitive verb
1. to undergo change

Source

A modification done to any otherwise stock part is still a modification. Opinions do not change that fact. In the terms of modifications, *both B Negative and snef are Modders.* They go about it in different ways. Printing, cutting and fitting stickers on a fan hub is a modification. Painting fan blades is a modification. Cutting a case to facilitate a new type of unintended part(s) is a modification. Building your own reservoir from scratch is NOT a modification. It is a completely new DIY scratch built product.

I am far from a diplomat - as a matter of fact, my family jokes that my form of diplomacy is crack the door, toss the grenade, then go in and discuss terms.









But! (There's always a BUT!!)







Why we have members of OCN fighting







with each other about builds and what qualifies as a true mod is silly.








You change it, it's a mod. You create it yourself from scratch, it's not a mod. It's that easy folks.

Where's the LOVE?!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Got some better lighting to take pics this morning... tubing starts today
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like the looks of the overall build thus far.

Until now I have always used a P/P configuration, but I had high fpi rads and the wife didn't like the noise. One must please the boss too though. When Momma isn't happy,







NOBODY is happy!









The lower fpi, yet thicker rads like the SR-2 (using more radiators) gives me a similar result though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Only if its worthless info,you never know...someone may hand you a great idea to run with.


Completely agree. Should have elaborated a tad in my previous post.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Please correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> Mod = Modify
> 
> Modify:
> Verb
> 1. to change some parts of (something) while not changing other parts
> 
> Transitive verb
> 1. to make less extreme : moderate
> 2a. to limit or restrict the meaning of especially in a grammatical construction
> 2b. to change (a vowel) by umlaut
> 
> 3a. to make minor changes in
> 3b. to make basic or fundamental changes in often to give a new orientation to or to serve a new end
> 
> Intransitive verb
> 1. to undergo change
> 
> Source
> 
> A modification done to any otherwise stock part is still a modification. Opinions do not change that fact. In the terms of modifications, *both B Negative and snef are Modders.* They go about it in different ways. Printing, cutting and fitting stickers on a fan hub is a modification. Painting fan blades is a modification. Cutting a case to facilitate a new type of unintended part(s) is a modification. Building your own reservoir from scratch is NOT a modification. It is a completely new DIY scratch built product.
> 
> I am far from a diplomat - as a matter of fact, my family jokes that my form of diplomacy is crack the door, toss the grenade, then go in and discuss terms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But! (There's always a BUT!!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why we have members of OCN fighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with each other about builds and what qualifies as a true mod is silly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You change it, it's a mod. You create it yourself from scratch, it's not a mod. It's that easy folks.
> 
> Where's the LOVE?!


This is not,and never has been (regardless of what Snef thinks) about Snef or Me,its about the lack of any kind guidance for MOTM,there has to be some definition of what a mod entails. Most sites require a certain amount of work to be done to qualify and judge on the work done. This stimulates the modding scene in general,look at how Bit tech runs theirs and look at the standard they get in their build section for example.
OCN doesnt do this so you get these polarized disagreements that turn personal.


----------



## VSG

lol of course my post gets removed


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol.
> 
> I never said I didnt like you (Dear God,are we still in school?!??!),you just sulk after being critiqued....which is so obviously true. This is the difference between you and everybody else,instead of taking criticism on board,you fly off on a rant.
> 
> And if you feel that way then put me on ignore or just dont post here,stop with the amateur dramatics tho either way yeah? Get along or move along.


i receive and received a lot of criticism and i always took them without any issue,. stop looking only at what you said and look everywhere, i just don't like YOURS because you have a way to do them sometime which are offendant, exactly like this post and the allusion to printer

and you always repeat the same criticism at all of my build, just stop, i saw them before, and if you don't like them, fine, just styop looking at them, and stop pretending, you did them to make me to go over what i generally do, i think your not honest when you pretend that, i told you, i don't want to go over, i like it like that, and i just want to do build with pleasant esthetic
a lot of "real" mod, like you say, are just ugly, what ever if the work is awesome or not, the completed build is just ugly, but this is another story and its everyone taste

and if you don't said you don't like me, ok, me i said it, i don't like you, you are a very unpleasant person,

if you think i don't take criticism, fine its your opinion and i cant do nothing to change it, its the last time i will talk to you and simply ignore you in future, i don't need you and your opinion in my life and I'm sure its the same thing for you, but i know you it will be impossible to not reply to this because its what you are, need the last word,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i receive and received a lot of criticism and i always took them without any issue,. stop looking only at what you said and look everywhere, i just don't like YOURS because you have a way to do them sometime which are offendant, exactly like this post and the allusion to printer
> 
> and you always repeat the same criticism at all of my build, just stop, i saw them before, and if you don't like them, fine, just styop looking at them, and stop pretending, you did them to make me to go over what i generally do, i think your not honest when you pretend that, i told you, i don't want to go over, i like it like that, and i just want to do build with pleasant esthetic
> a lot of "real" mod, like you say, are just ugly, what ever if the work is awesome or not, the completed build is just ugly, but this is another story and its everyone taste
> 
> *and if you don't said you don't like me, ok, me i said it, i don't like you, you are a very unpleasant person,*
> 
> if you think i don't take criticism, fine its your opinion and i cant do nothing to change it, its the last time i will talk to you and simply ignore you in future, i don't need you and your opinion in my life and I'm sure its the same thing for you, but i know you it will be impossible to not reply to this because its what you are, need the last word,


Stop thinking so much and just go or put me on ignore as the problem seems to be yours?

Also,as you will notice,I dont comment on your builds as you go off every time.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Please correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> Why we have members of OCN fighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with each other about builds and what qualifies as a true mod is silly.
> 
> Where's the LOVE?!


This is part of life sir.

TCO


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is not,and never has been (regardless of what Snef thinks) about Snef or Me,its about the lack of any kind guidance for MOTM,there has to be some definition of what a mod entails. Most sites require a certain amount of work to be done to qualify and judge on the work done. This stimulates the modding scene in general,look at how Bit tech runs theirs and look at the standard they get in their build section for example.
> OCN doesnt do this so you get these polarized disagreements that turn personal.


Yes Sir. I understood it wasn't a personal issue between the two of you. It did become that though.

As far as MoTM and guidelines go, I must agree! How can an event be conducted without proper guidelines? With that, I have said enough.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Using a jigsaw is probably the easiest way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I echo Gilles3000 suggestion. I use a jigsaw over a Dremel for control.


Just so that I don't get caught by any language confusion ... you mean a jigsaw like the picture below? If so ... then fantastic as I was given one for my birthday last year and so far I have only cut a stonking big hole in my back door for a doggie flap.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Use jigsaw blades specifically for cutting soft metal for best results.
> Tape it off, draw your cutting marks on the tape
> Drill a hole inside the area you are going to cut out large enough to insert the jigsaw blade to get started


Excellent suggestions - thanks.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Just so that I don't get caught by any language confusion ... you mean a jigsaw like the picture below? If so ... then fantastic as I was given one for my birthday last year and so far I have only cut a stonking big hole in my back door for a doggie flap.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent suggestions - thanks.


Yep, that's the one.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Just so that I don't get caught by any language confusion ... you mean a jigsaw like the picture below? If so ... then fantastic as I was given one for my birthday last year and so far I have only cut a stonking big hole in my back door for a doggie flap.
> 
> 
> Excellent suggestions - thanks.


as an incentive:



you will need this too:



to smooth the edges and remove any imperfections in the cut.

the final product:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Just so that I don't get caught by any language confusion ... you mean a jigsaw like the picture below? If so ... then fantastic as I was given one for my birthday last year and so far I have only cut a stonking big hole in my back door for a doggie flap.
> 
> 
> Excellent suggestions - thanks.


If you are working with Alu,you dont even need that (although it helps!), I have done a lot of work with......



It is hard work tho,one of the many reasons I went CNC instead. Its much more nimble than a Jigsaw and has much finer control requiring less filing at the end.

If power tools are a must then consider a.....



Instead as these have the same fine control as a fret saw but the hard work is removed.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Not until now.
> I have to agree. Why is there no requirement for actual work to be completed? It's called mod of the month, not "oh look, I'm good at making a minimalistic build where the only thing I actually modified was the hard tubing, and that's because they come in 1m lengths, and even then I didn't bend it" of the month.
> 
> Was so frustrating to see builds people had put dozens or even hundreds of hours of work into actually modifying the case (plus doing custom paint jobs, and building a variety of supports from scratch) lose to others that had an army of followers but hadn't really even modified the case after it was taken out if the box.


But who actually has an army of followers who doesn't so any sort of modifications?

This isn't facebook where if you have a Corsair case you automatically get 1000 likes.

IMO a mod doesn't necessarily mean modifying the case. A mod is modifying any of the equipment. Whether it be sleeving, volt mods, case mods, modifying water cooling stuff.


----------



## Kimir

Rename it into build of the month, problem solved?









I was once considering entering in MOTM (june 2014) but backed down as my SMA8 rig doesn't have mod.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Only mod on my M8 at the moment is my paint job lol, still working on more to do to it


----------



## wermad

Why not just have separate "build of the month (atx, matx, itx)". So this will let those to prefer not to engross their build in actual modifications participate have their work showcased. I also remember clubs used to have build of the week/month, but that actually requires some effort by the op and the thread. Its been slowing down here a bit I understand why its not done any more.

edit: my comment was in broader terms of the entire site, and not specifying this thread tbh. There's way too much traffic here to pull something like this on a weekly basis in the wc thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *Why not just have separate "build of the month* (atx, matx, itx)". So this will let those to prefer not to engross their build in actual modifications participate have their work showcased. I also remember clubs used to have build of the week/month, *but that actually requires some effort by the op and the thread.* Its been slowing down here a bit I understand why its not done any more.


A good idea.

Build of the week for this club lasted only a few weeks so its fair to say it Kevin didnt think it was viable,is that something you would like re introduced?


----------



## wermad

This thread is way too big (and too broad), and the effort to pull off such a feat would be as big as the motm stuff. For the individual threads doing weekly/monthly build selections, I would leave that to more finite threads/clubs.

edit: my comment was in broader terms of the entire site, and not specifying this thread tbh. There's way too much traffic here to pull something like this on a weekly basis in the wc thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This thread is way too big (and too broad), and the effort to pull off such a feat would be as big as the motm stuff. For the individual threads doing weekly/monthly build selections, I would leave that to more finite threads/clubs.
> 
> edit: my comment was in broader terms of the entire site, and not specifying this thread tbh. There's way too much traffic here to pull something like this on a weekly basis in the wc thread.


Maybe an informal monthly thing? Have the 'winner' link on the front page perhaps?


----------



## wermad

Sure, why not







. Maybe once in a while add "modification" of the week to recognize very unique specific/singular wc mods without really putting too much emphasis on the builder/owner and the entire build (less analysis). That way individual unique achievements have a chance to be recognized for being special and might give others ideas/inspiration.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sure, why not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Maybe once in a while add "modification" of the week to recognize very unique specific/singular wc mods without really putting too much emphasis on the builder/owner and the entire build (less analysis). That way individual unique achievements have a chance to be recognized for being special and might give others ideas/inspiration.


Sold.

Put a few people in the hat to do some judging who gets it for this month.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sold.
> 
> Put a few people in the hat to do some judging who gets it for this month.


More than happy to participate and help out where possible


----------



## Costas

What was the original intent of MOTM...? Was it really to just judge on the extent of modifications or the overall build?

I can see where lines are blurred between builds which may have plenty of modifications yet may not look asthetically pleasing as a build with less mods yet having a more 'attractive' finish.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Just so that I don't get caught by any language confusion ... you mean a jigsaw like the picture below? If so ... then fantastic as I was given one for my birthday last year and so far I have only cut a stonking big hole in my back door for a doggie flap.
> 
> 
> Excellent suggestions - thanks.


Yes, that type of powered saw.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> What was the original intent of MOTM...? Was it really to just judge on modifications all the overall build?
> 
> I can see where lines are blurred between builds which may have plenty of modifications yet may not look asthetically pleasing as a build with less mods yet having a more attractive finish.


What it was originally I do not know but my interpretation would include but not be limited to something worded like.....
When the case and or hardware in the build has been modified or replaced which improves functionality, aesthetics & or performance.


----------



## timerwin63

I did something I think is relatively neat this past weekend. Didn't get pictures of the whole process, but whatever.

A buddy of mind gave me an eMachines T1096, so I decided to have a little fun. I tore out the drive cage(s), drilled out the two proprietary standoffs, made some mounts for a 240mm rad in the front and 4 holes to mount my res to the ceiling, then tossed my recently modded (in possibly working condition) 670 and a spare motherboard I had laying around. Also replaced the stock 130w SFX unit with an ST45SF-G.

Only problems as it stands now are clean cabling (I don't think I'm gonna get that wish) and finding a CPU for the darn thing. I sold my Pentium a while back and now I'm regretting it big time.



This particular group of fittings destroyed my hands.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I did something I think is relatively neat this past weekend. Didn't get pictures of the whole process, but whatever.
> 
> A buddy of mind gave me an eMachines T1096, so I decided to have a little fun. I tore out the drive cage(s), drilled out the two proprietary standoffs, made some mounts for a 240mm rad in the front and 4 holes to mount my res to the ceiling, then tossed my recently modded (in possibly working condition) 670 and a spare motherboard I had laying around. Also replaced the stock 130w SFX unit with an ST45SF-G.
> 
> Only problems as it stands now are clean cabling (I don't think I'm gonna get that wish) and finding a CPU for the darn thing. I sold my Pentium a while back and now I'm regretting it big time.
> 
> 
> 
> This particular group of fittings destroyed my hands.


haha that is very impressive to fit all of that into what looks like a typical steel zero room box


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I did something I think is relatively neat this past weekend. Didn't get pictures of the whole process, but whatever.
> 
> A buddy of mind gave me an eMachines T1096, so I decided to have a little fun. I tore out the drive cage(s), drilled out the two proprietary standoffs, made some mounts for a 240mm rad in the front and 4 holes to mount my res to the ceiling, then tossed my recently modded (in possibly working condition) 670 and a spare motherboard I had laying around. Also replaced the stock 130w SFX unit with an ST45SF-G.
> 
> Only problems as it stands now are clean cabling (I don't think I'm gonna get that wish) and finding a CPU for the darn thing. I sold my Pentium a while back and now I'm regretting it big time.
> 
> 
> 
> This particular group of fittings destroyed my hands.










Is that EK ZMT, some other black tubing or other brand of neoprene tubing/hose? Either way, I like it. Neat short tubing runs terminated in white looks good.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

I have a question for anyone out there who owns the Corsair 900D as you guys seen to really know stuff. Does a 64mm 360 rad fit up top in push, pull, push/pull or neither? I know the case is absolutely huge and it may be a stupid question but I just want to make sure that I can fit the rad I want up top.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> I have a question for anyone out there who owns the Corsair 900D as you guys seen to really know stuff. Does a 64mm 360 rad fit up top in push, pull, push/pull or neither? I know the case is absolutely huge and it may be a stupid question but I just want to make sure that I can fit the rad I want up top.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I put in a monsta 86mm 480mm with one bank of fans, total 111mm. It barely clears though your mb and ram may clash.

If its just a 360, use the three front most fan spots on the top radiator mount and it may clear. Still, its can get tight.

edit:

Which 64mm rad? Never heard of this thickness


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that EK ZMT, some other black tubing or other brand of neoprene tubing/hose? Either way, I like it. Neat short tubing runs terminated in white looks good.


Yeah, it's ZMT. There was a compatibility problem between the ZMT and the Barrow 3/8-5/8 fittings for some reason. Basically the ZMT expands in a way that means the thread for the compression ring makes contact with the tubing. Because of this, I had to carefully shave down the tubing below the biting point for the compression ring in order to make them feasible.

Without trimming:


It's really difficult to get it past here:


Tubing after trimming:


Fits like a glove. This is probably bad in the long term, and I should find a safer solution. I'm not sure if this is a Barrow problem or a ZMT problem, though, as I haven't used either independently before.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I put in a monsta 86mm 480mm with one bank of fans, total 111mm. It barely clears though your mb and ram may clash.
> 
> If its just a 360, use the three front most fan spots on the top radiator mount and it may clear. Still, its can get tight.
> 
> edit:
> 
> Which 64mm rad? Never heard of this thickness


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I put in a monsta 86mm 480mm with one bank of fans, total 111mm. It barely clears though your mb and ram may clash.
> 
> If its just a 360, use the three front most fan spots on the top radiator mount and it may clear. Still, its can get tight.
> 
> edit:
> 
> Which 64mm rad? Never heard of this thickness


It's the EK CoolStream Rad XTX 360. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-rad-xtx-360
I know it's a weird size, I am pulling it out of another build as I needed a 360 rad and I was hoping it would fit up top. I guess if it's going to cause issues I could always go buy another rad, I just prefer to use this one if I could since I already spent/spending so much on this build. I guess I could move things around I was just trying to avoid that though. I really appreciate the insight. I had a feeling it may cause an issue.







I'm glad I asked you guys though and now I can plan accordingly.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Yeah, it's ZMT. There was a compatibility problem between the ZMT and the Barrow 3/8-5/8 fittings for some reason. Basically the ZMT expands in a way that means the thread for the compression ring makes contact with the tubing. Because of this, I had to carefully shave down the tubing below the biting point for the compression ring in order to make them feasible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Without trimming:
> 
> 
> It's really difficult to get it past here:
> 
> 
> Tubing after trimming:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fits like a glove. This is probably bad in the long term, and I should find a safer solution. I'm not sure if this is a Barrow problem or a ZMT problem, though, as I haven't used either independently before.


That is crazy! I use barrow fitting on Mayhem's tubing with no issues. Maybe ZMT and Barrow doesn't play nicely together?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> That is crazy! I use barrow fitting on Mayhem's tubing with no issues. Maybe ZMT and Barrow doesn't play nicely together?


I'm pretty sure that's what it is, although I can't imagine why. I've never had problems with any other kind of tubing in any of my other fittings. I guess it is what it is, though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> It's the EK CoolStream Rad XTX 360. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-rad-xtx-360
> I know it's a weird size, I am pulling it out of another build as I needed a 360 rad and I was hoping it would fit up top. I guess if it's going to cause issues I could always go buy another rad, I just prefer to use this one if I could since I already spent/spending so much on this build. I guess I could move things around I was just trying to avoid that though. I really appreciate the insight. I had a feeling it may cause an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad I asked you guys though and now I can plan accordingly.


Gotcha









You can always use this one in the bottom chamber (or the front).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that's what it is, although I can't imagine why. I've never had problems with any other kind of tubing in any of my other fittings. I guess it is what it is, though.


I can tell you that Bitspower Compression fittings 3/8" x 5/8" and primochill adavanced CRT clear tubing is the same deal. Very very tight.

TCO


----------



## Deathscythes

Hi everyone, new to OCN, here is my first water cooling build =)









As for the watercooling parts:

Alphacool Monsta 480mm (8 fans Phobya nano-2G)
Alphacool XT45 480mm (8 fans Phobya nano-2G)
Alphacool UT60 240mm (3 fans Phobya nano-2G)
Alphacool ST30 240mm (1 fan Phobya nano-2G)

EK-FB RVE
2x EK-FC R9 295x2

Tubing Primochill primoflex advanced LRT 19mm OD
Fittings are all EK's

Don't ask me why there are two reservoirs xD


----------



## wermad

Welcome and nice rig







.

Don't forget the 295x2 club!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1483021/official-amd-r9-295x2-owners-club


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Yeah, it's ZMT. There was a compatibility problem between the ZMT and the Barrow 3/8-5/8 fittings for some reason. Basically the ZMT expands in a way that means the thread for the compression ring makes contact with the tubing. Because of this, I had to carefully shave down the tubing below the biting point for the compression ring in order to make them feasible.
> 
> Without trimming:
> 
> 
> It's really difficult to get it past here:
> 
> 
> Tubing after trimming:
> 
> 
> Fits like a glove. This is probably bad in the long term, and I should find a safer solution. I'm not sure if this is a Barrow problem or a ZMT problem, though, as I haven't used either independently before.


That's what i experienced with primochill advance lrt and bitspower compression fittings, 3/8 5/8, can't even make the compression ring to reach the fitting without using excessive amount of force, until i discovered the hotwater trick


----------



## brazilianloser

I got some ideas in mind already but just wondering what others do in thus case. What you guys tend to do to fix paint scratches on for example Bitspower fittings...?


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> I got some ideas in mind already but just wondering what others do in thus case. What you guys tend to do to fix paint scratches on for example Bitspower fittings...?


What color fittings?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> What color fittings?


Black


----------



## Laithan

*My head is spinning* with these options for my new build so I figured I would ask for some advice









*So how should I route the water??!? Does it matter?*

I am assuming that I'd want to have the water go through a rad after it leaves the CPU/VRM/CHIPSET blocks.... and likewise that I'd want to have the water go through a rad after it leaves the GPUs.

Here is what the board looks like for my new build. In addition I have a CPU and 2 GPU blocks being added to the loop:


Spoiler: RIVBE w/blocks







I made this layout and numbered each area to make it easy for you to give me some suggestions.. you could say something like 7/4/5/6/1/2/3 to represent the sequence of connections.


I am looking to make one single loop. Total rad space = 800mm. As far as routing the water there are many options... *does it really matter and should I just focused on what LOOKS better or are there some key water cooling fundamentals that need to be factored?* I am not clear if there is an OBVIOUS choice that I should use here or does it really not matter because it will just all just equalize?

*For example:* should I go to the CPU directly after it leaves the rad BEFORE it goes through the chipset and VRM blocks? Would that give the CPU a slight advantage or am I over thinking this?!? I am planning for a high overclock on the CPU so I'm looking for the best way to leverage the cooling.

Thanks in advance for the advice!


----------



## pc-illiterate

all rads can be plumbed 1 after another or you can split them up after each block. it doesnt matter.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Black


Sharpie or black paint pen for touch ups would be the best way IMHO.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> all rads can be plumbed 1 after another or you can split them up after each block. it doesnt matter.


Thank you! Good to get some confirmation. I can just go with whatever _looks_ better then as there's no "wrong" way.


----------



## pc-illiterate

only thing that matters is res feeds pump, aka res directly before and above pump. 2x swiftech h240x for res/pump combo means no worries. post up your finished pics cause i want to know what case youre using.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> only thing that matters is res feeds pump, aka res directly before and above pump. 2x swiftech h240x for res/pump combo means no worries. post up your finished pics cause i want to know what case youre using.


I've seen some builds where the pump isn't fed directly by the res, you'll have to forgive my lack of evidence but it's somewhere back in this thread, I believe it was a taiwanese build showcase I saw it in? Basically the pump was like fed by the rad IIRC so there is that too but generally speaking that would be murder to fill that loop lol.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Sharpie or black paint pen for touch ups would be the best way IMHO.


Was thinking a light touch of nail polish but sharpie should do too... lol


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> only thing that matters is res feeds pump, aka res directly before and above pump. 2x swiftech h240x for res/pump combo means no worries. post up your finished pics cause i want to know what case youre using.


Thanks again









This is a pic of the setup right now....pre-upgrade







Currently loops are split.

It's a ThermalTake V71 with most of the insides removed.

leak testing the gpu loop (towels removed for pic







)


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Was thinking a light touch of nail polish but sharpie should do too... lol


Try a paint pen for on local hardware store. Grab some goof off or similar product to remove excess or mistakes


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I've seen some builds where the pump isn't fed directly by the res, you'll have to forgive my lack of evidence but it's somewhere back in this thread, I believe it was a taiwanese build showcase I saw it in? Basically the pump was like fed by the rad IIRC so there is that too but generally speaking that would be murder to fill that loop lol.


youll need to find that cause i'll never believe it. the rad would need to be top mounted in the case and be a multiport with a port used as a fill port. this makes the rad a res.
the res serves 2 purposes. catch air as the loop bleeds and keep the pump fed with coolant. 99.99% of the time, a rad will not feed a pump when its being bled. the res would serve no purpose other than to catch pushed around air. as stated previously, the rad would need to be treated as a res and would need to be kept full to keep the pump from running dry.
the pump would therefore be fed directly by a res...


----------



## FXformat

This little chinese made mini miter saw is a must have if you do a lot of rigid lines, i build and charge people for custom loops and this item is a must have...just thought i'd share, cutting take 2 seconds, smooth straight cuts every time...$26 at Harbor Freight just thought i'd share, for those who change tubings or setups a lot.







Cuts look like this, you dont even need to sand it, just clean up the debri inside and install



And here's my cut with hacksaws


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This little chinese made mini miter saw is a must have if you do a lot of rigid lines, i build and charge people for custom loops and this item is a must have...just thought i'd share, cutting take 2 seconds, smooth straight cuts every time...$26 at Harbor Freight just thought i'd share, for those who change tubings or setups a lot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cuts look like this, you dont even need to sand it, just clean up the debri inside and install
> 
> 
> 
> And here's my cut with hacksaws


That's... amazing actually


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> youll need to find that cause i'll never believe it. the rad would need to be top mounted in the case and be a multiport with a port used as a fill port. this makes the rad a res.
> the res serves 2 purposes. catch air as the loop bleeds and keep the pump fed with coolant. 99.99% of the time, a rad will not feed a pump when its being bled. the res would serve no purpose other than to catch pushed around air. as stated previously, the rad would need to be treated as a res and would need to be kept full to keep the pump from running dry.
> the pump would therefore be fed directly by a res...


Here you go!


----------



## Willius

Making Some progress with the test fitting of adding a second pump to the S3. It's gonna be tight. Hopefully I'll get my EK CE240 to make the rada uniform again.
Need to drill holes for the DDC's and pass troughs. What would be the best way to handle that. Ofc it is important that they are exactly where they need to be.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This little chinese made mini miter saw is a must have if you do a lot of rigid lines, i build and charge people for custom loops and this item is a must have...just thought i'd share, cutting take 2 seconds, smooth straight cuts every time...$26 at Harbor Freight just thought i'd share, for those who change tubings or setups a lot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cuts look like this, you dont even need to sand it, just clean up the debri inside and install
> 
> 
> 
> And here's my cut with hacksaws


I knew when I saw Drill Master where it came from lol. I was actually looking at one of these last weekend when I picked up my stupid awesome 1/2" Impact Gun (which broke my crank bolt). I love HFT, the only place to get really good Diamond Dremel Discs for the low low.


----------



## galletabah

my new reservoir


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> 
> 
> Making Some progress with the test fitting of adding a second pump to the S3. It's gonna be tight. Hopefully I'll get my EK CE240 to make the rada uniform again.
> Need to drill holes for the DDC's and pass troughs. What would be the best way to handle that. Ofc it is important that they are exactly where they need to be.


Build log?

TCO


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Wow thats cool - wish I had one of those before I finished my project - thanks for sharing


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> That's... amazing actually


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Wow thats cool - wish I had one of those before I finished my project - thanks for sharing


Links for everyone!


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Links for everyone!


Thanks yes found it before your link was posted - thanks for doing that - bookmarked man I wish I had that earlier


----------



## VSG

EK has another series of their kits available now: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-releases-brand-new-p-series-kits/

The main change here seems to be the inclusion of a 280mm size rad w/140mm fans as an option, and the D5 PWM being the default pump instead of the DDC.


----------



## funfordcobra

Man I think the pwm pumps are such a step backwards..


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Man I think the pwm pumps are such a step backwards..


Why?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Man I think the pwm pumps are such a step backwards..


Hmmm why you say that? Mine is PWM and it's quiet, and strong...all i could ask for in a pump.


----------



## funfordcobra

Well, the new ones (from EK) only run at 10% when not hooked up to PWM. Unlike before where it was 60%. It makes filling and draining a pain unless you have a test bench handy to adjust pwm or if you're comfortable leak testing on a live rig. (that's what I've been doing..)

I guess you could rig a hotwire max PWM signal from a molex but I'm not comfortable doing that, yet.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Well, the new ones (from EK) only run at 10% when not hooked up to PWM. Unlike before where it was 60%. It makes filling and draining a pain unless you have a test bench handy to adjust pwm or if you're comfortable leak testing on a live rig. (that's what I've been doing..)
> 
> I guess you could rig a hotwire max PWM signal from a molex but I'm not comfortable doing that, yet.


Oh that, yeah i was wondering why the pump was so low when i hooked it up the first time...but even then, it had no problem circulating the water in my loop, granted i only have a 360mm rad and 1 gpu, i could imagine it being difficult if you had like 2x360 rad and multiple GPU and the pump being on the bottom of the case.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Build log?
> 
> TCO


Don't have one, sorry









I'm to far into the build to start one too, maybe for the next project!


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> *My head is spinning* with these options for my new build so I figured I would ask for some advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So how should I route the water??!? Does it matter?*
> 
> I am assuming that I'd want to have the water go through a rad after it leaves the CPU/VRM/CHIPSET blocks.... and likewise that I'd want to have the water go through a rad after it leaves the GPUs.
> 
> Here is what the board looks like for my new build. In addition I have a CPU and 2 GPU blocks being added to the loop:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: RIVBE w/blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this layout and numbered each area to make it easy for you to give me some suggestions.. you could say something like 7/4/5/6/1/2/3 to represent the sequence of connections.
> 
> 
> I am looking to make one single loop. Total rad space = 800mm. As far as routing the water there are many options... *does it really matter and should I just focused on what LOOKS better or are there some key water cooling fundamentals that need to be factored?* I am not clear if there is an OBVIOUS choice that I should use here or does it really not matter because it will just all just equalize?
> 
> *For example:* should I go to the CPU directly after it leaves the rad BEFORE it goes through the chipset and VRM blocks? Would that give the CPU a slight advantage or am I over thinking this?!? I am planning for a high overclock on the CPU so I'm looking for the best way to leverage the cooling.
> 
> Thanks in advance for the advice!


I've built two loops so far, thinking and implementing exactly this way. I think the results speak for the loop design decisions. There are many who say it doesn't matter, as the water temp will equalize throughout the loop. I tend to consider component heat threshold to take advantage of potential liquid temp differences, particularly after going through a rad -- isn't that the point of a radiator? The liquid coming out of the rad should be cooler than the liquid going in.

Here are my two setups and results:

Expanded H220 loop: 240mm RAD/res -> CPU pump/block -> 120mm RAD -> GTX 980 TI -> *
CPU 4.7GHz 1.3v: AIDA FPU 76C, AIDA CPU STRESS 60C, BF4 50C
GPU 1506MHz/8000MHz 1.274v: Furmark - 44C, Witcher 3 40C, BF4 39C, Crysis 3 41C

Custom 360+120 loop: Res -> Pump -> CPU block -> MOSFET block -> 120mm RAD -> GTX 980 TI -> 360mm RAD -> *
Mobo MOSFET: AIDA FPU 50C (not sure if my RAM at 2666MHz is adding to this temp due to higher load)
CPU 4.7GHz 1.3v: AIDA FPU 67C, AIDA CPU STRESS 50C, BF4 40C
GPU 1506MHz/8000MHz 1.274v: Furmark - 39C, Witcher 3 35C, BF4 35C


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Well, the new ones (from EK) only run at 10% when not hooked up to PWM. Unlike before where it was 60%. It makes filling and draining a pain unless you have a test bench handy to adjust pwm or if you're comfortable leak testing on a live rig. (that's what I've been doing..)
> 
> I guess you could rig a hotwire max PWM signal from a molex but I'm not comfortable doing that, yet.


Just plug a PWM fan controller in to a molex,job done.

Or am I being outlandish by thinking people have PWM controllers laying around? I know I do....


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just plug a PWM fan controller in to a molex,job done.
> 
> Or am I being outlandish by thinking people have PWM controllers laying around? I know I do....


I certainly don't. But then again, I don't run any PWM pumps, so it's somewhat irrelevant.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Well, the new ones (from EK) only run at 10% when not hooked up to PWM. Unlike before where it was 60%. It makes filling and draining a pain unless you have a test bench handy to adjust pwm or if you're comfortable leak testing on a live rig. (that's what I've been doing..)
> 
> I guess you could rig a hotwire max PWM signal from a molex but I'm not comfortable doing that, yet.


Not this again. Without any proof, let's not get into the whole 10% (10% what anyway? RPM range? PWM signal response?) guess game. I have an XSPC Laing PWM pump here (no different than the EK one or any other rebranded Laing D5 PWM pump) and it doesn't do any 10% when the PWM cable is not hooked up.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Well, the new ones (from EK) only run at 10% when not hooked up to PWM. Unlike before where it was 60%. It makes filling and draining a pain unless you have a test bench handy to adjust pwm or if you're comfortable leak testing on a live rig. (that's what I've been doing..)
> 
> I guess you could rig a hotwire max PWM signal from a molex but I'm not comfortable doing that, yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not this again. Without any proof, let's not get into the whole 10% (10% what anyway? RPM range? PWM signal response?) guess game. I have an XSPC Laing PWM pump here (no different than the EK one or any other rebranded Laing D5 PWM pump) and it doesn't do any 10% when the PWM cable is not hooked up.


So far as I known all Laing re-branded do 60% without the pwm cable connected. I would be surprised if EK have modified the PWM circuitry board to run at 10% only. With what purpose? The only pwm d5 pump that does not behave like that is the Aquacomputer one which will run at 100% without been connected, precisely because was modified by Aquacomputer to have a pwm signal compliable with intel specs and the Aquaero.

@B NEGATIVE, about the in-house (I mean this thread) Mod of the month thing I am favorable and suggested that before a month or so ago. I would help in any way you want to facilitate that happening.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Don't have one, sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm to far into the build to start one too, maybe for the next project!


Never to far along for a log.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> So far as I known all Laing re-branded do 60% without the pwm cable connected. I would be surprised if EK have modified the PWM circuitry board to run at 10% only. With what purpose? The only pwm d5 pump that does not behave like that is the Aquacomputer one which will run at 100% without been connected, precisely because was modified by Aquacomputer to have a pwm signal compliable with intel specs and the Aquaero.
> 
> @B NEGATIVE, about the in-house (I mean this thread) Mod of the month thing I am favorable and suggested that before a month or so ago. I would help in any way you want to facilitate that happening.


Im choosing (with help) 2 regs and a new member every month to choose 3 things they individually like and a consensus between them for a WCCROTM rig for the front page.

Wermad,Fast fate and Costas are doing Feb,IT Diva is one of next months judges,perhaps you would like to join her? I can also have some industry types sticking their faces in if you would like?

This is purely informal and not to be taken too seriously tho.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im choosing (with help) 2 regs and a new member every month to choose 3 things they individually like and a consensus between them for a WCCROTM rig for the front page.
> 
> Wermad,Fast fate and Costas are doing Feb,IT Diva is one of next months judges,perhaps you would like to join her? I can also have some industry types sticking their faces in if you would like?
> 
> This is purely informal and not to be taken too seriously tho.


Sounds like an awesome idea to help bring some of the smaller builders that do some phenomenal work out of the piles of builds and into the public eye.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im choosing (with help) 2 regs and a new member every month to choose 3 things they individually like and a consensus between them for a WCCROTM rig for the front page.
> 
> Wermad,Fast fate and Costas are doing Feb,IT Diva is one of next months judges,perhaps you would like to join her? I can also have some industry types sticking their faces in if you would like?
> 
> This is purely informal and not to be taken too seriously tho.


Yep, fully understand the informal aspect of it. I will gladly join Darlene on the task and anyone else you choose.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im choosing (with help) 2 regs and a new member every month to choose 3 things they individually like and a consensus between them for a WCCROTM rig for the front page.
> 
> Wermad,Fast fate and Costas are doing Feb,IT Diva is one of next months judges,perhaps you would like to join her? I can also have some industry types sticking their faces in if you would like?
> 
> This is purely informal and not to be taken too seriously tho.


Not taken seriously, but for a future MOTM sometime, Id like to offer myself as a judge


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Not taken seriously, but for a future MOTM sometime, Id like to offer myself as a judge


Once this month is done,I will look to March.

Also,by front page,I mean the OP of this thread.


----------



## taowulf

Since this convo cropped up a bit, I might as well toss a couple pennies in.

First of all, where builds and mods (yes, I see them as separate entities) are on the site is problem #1. Right now, you will find build logs in at least 6 different areas. AMD build logs, Intel Build logs, Water cooling and Air cooling all are in separate sub-forums. Then there is the actual Case mods works logs area, which also has the sponsored build logs. All of the build logs needs to be in one section, split between Air cooled, Water cooled and sponsored (maybe with a segregation for AMD and Intel). It would concentrate traffic in those sections and let people more easily see all the builds to get a better idea of what is in progress. If you really wanted to nit pick, you could split builds AKA computer assembly with no fabrication/custom painting etc from mods which would would have some sort of fabrication or actual modification involved.

If it was all in once section, a MoTM could be done for best Air Cooled, Best Water cooled and best Sponsored. Perhaps a separate Category from all MoTM entrants for that month for best overall build/mod.

There is my two cents, don't forget to make change if needed.


----------



## zubzero689

finish my project and love every second of it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sure, why not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Maybe once in a while add "modification" of the week to recognize very unique specific/singular wc mods without really putting too much emphasis on the builder/owner and the entire build (less analysis). That way individual unique achievements have a chance to be recognized for being special and might give others ideas/inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> Sold.
> 
> Put a few people in the hat to do some judging who gets it for this month.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Not taken seriously, but for a future MOTM sometime, Id like to offer myself as a judge
> 
> 
> 
> Once this month is done,I will look to March.
> 
> Also,by front page,I mean the OP of this thread.
Click to expand...

You can open a poll in the OP Bneg. No special judging required.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that EK ZMT, some other black tubing or other brand of neoprene tubing/hose? Either way, I like it. Neat short tubing runs terminated in white looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's ZMT. There was a compatibility problem between the ZMT and the Barrow 3/8-5/8 fittings for some reason. Basically the ZMT expands in a way that means the thread for the compression ring makes contact with the tubing. Because of this, I had to carefully shave down the tubing below the biting point for the compression ring in order to make them feasible.
> 
> Without trimming:
> 
> 
> It's really difficult to get it past here:
> 
> 
> Tubing after trimming:
> 
> 
> Fits like a glove. This is probably bad in the long term, and I should find a safer solution. I'm not sure if this is a Barrow problem or a ZMT problem, though, as I haven't used either independently before.
Click to expand...

For issues like this, I suggest tearing a strip of Emory cloth the width of the collar off of a piece of sheet. Then wrap the grit side to the tube and slowly go over the tube until it meets your satisfaction. I've used PrimoChill tubing in the past and anyone who has used it knows of the compatibility issues with some fittings. My EK fittings were difficult to connect and same for my Monsoons. BPs can be pretty difficult to use as well. But this method should fix it without gaffing the threads of your fittings and being that it's the width of the collar it hides the work so nobody knows you ever had to modify the tubing to get a perfect fit. And you're not taking off enough material to cause it to leak.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This little chinese made mini miter saw is a must have if you do a lot of rigid lines, i build and charge people for custom loops and this item is a must have...just thought i'd share, cutting take 2 seconds, smooth straight cuts every time...$26 at Harbor Freight just thought i'd share, for those who change tubings or setups a lot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cuts look like this, you dont even need to sand it, just clean up the debri inside and install
> 
> 
> 
> And here's my cut with hacksaws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's... amazing actually
Click to expand...

I was considering this for sure. I think something like this pays for itself the first time you use it. Even if it were a one build deal and put on a shelf. You simply never know when something like that may come in handy for other uses as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This little chinese made mini miter saw is a must have if you do a lot of rigid lines, i build and charge people for custom loops and this item is a must have...just thought i'd share, cutting take 2 seconds, smooth straight cuts every time...$26 at Harbor Freight just thought i'd share, for those who change tubings or setups a lot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cuts look like this, you dont even need to sand it, just clean up the debri inside and install
> 
> 
> 
> And here's my cut with hacksaws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's... amazing actually
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was considering this for sure. I think something like this pays for itself the first time you use it. Even if it were a one build deal and put on a shelf. You simply never know when something like that may come in handy for other uses as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Fun fact: Harbor freight almost always has a 20% off coupon running which will negate shipping costs for those of you without a local store that carries this item. My store has 22 in stock though, so I'll be sending the girlfriend up there tomorrow or Friday so I can do my monsoon cuts with it. I'll have her get some wet/dry sandpaper for the cheap while she's there. Bam.

Not sure when or if I'll use it beyond this one build... but hopefully I get to do more hardline builds in the future, and this will be excellent to hold on to.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not this again. Without any proof, let's not get into the whole 10% (10% what anyway? RPM range? PWM signal response?) guess game. I have an XSPC Laing PWM pump here (no different than the EK one or any other rebranded Laing D5 PWM pump) and it doesn't do any 10% when the PWM cable is not hooked up.


Whatever dude. I've had it with three pumps now and Akira the EK rep said this is normal and experiences the same thing with his builds. If the pump is rated at 4800 RPM and I'm getting roughly 400 RPM or so with no pwm signal I'd say that's roughly 10%. Its not rocket science..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> *4800 RPM and I'm getting roughly 400 RPM or so*


Not to nitpick your math ffc but that would be less than 10%. But I can't disagree with anything else you were saying.









~Ceadder


----------



## funfordcobra

"or so" also is the same as "roughly" because there's no way of knowing without the PWM connection to monitor RPM or maybe my eyes just suck lol. It feels like less that 480 though..


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Whatever dude. I've had it with three pumps now and Akira the EK rep said this is normal and experiences the same thing with his builds. If the pump is rated at 4800 RPM and I'm getting roughly 400 RPM or so with no pwm signal I'd say that's roughly 10%. Its not rocket science..


I have to agree with disliking the pwm version, I had a xres 140. I don't really need the ability to change speed on the fly and the pwm had always caused me issues when filling. I'm not a fan of needing to tilt my case like a mad man, just to get my loop filled and not even bled. I've since switched back to my twin d5 Vario's and I'm loving it


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finish my project and love every second of it


Nice to see a Hive in action. Just had one come back from RMA. Don't worry, a fan controller killed mine lol. How is that Phobya radiator?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Whatever dude. I've had it with three pumps now and Akira the EK rep said this is normal and experiences the same thing with his builds. If the pump is rated at 4800 RPM and I'm getting roughly 400 RPM or so with no pwm signal I'd say that's roughly 10%. Its not rocket science..


How did you measure RPM? Did you remove the PWM wire from the header and connect it to a header? That would be good info to know.

I am honestly just trying to figure this out, not trying to start any argument here


----------



## wermad

Does the 5v trick actually work on it to make it run 100% without pwm?


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finish my project and love every second of it
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to see a Hive in action. Just had one come back from RMA. Don't worry, a fan controller killed mine lol. How is that Phobya radiator?
Click to expand...

that Phobya is just a rebrand in my opinion but its doing its job what i did was upgrade from a small case so i had room to put it back in


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This little chinese made mini miter saw is a must have if you do a lot of rigid lines, i build and charge people for custom loops and this item is a must have...just thought i'd share, cutting take 2 seconds, smooth straight cuts every time...$26 at Harbor Freight just thought i'd share, for those who change tubings or setups a lot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cuts look like this, you dont even need to sand it, just clean up the debri inside and install
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's my cut with hacksaws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah for the price even if its for one single build like someone else already said... it pays it self off in time not taken manually sawing the darn tubes all the time. Ordered one here and +rep my good sir.


----------



## FXformat

Yeah the saw definitely helped me save time...not only that, but i don't waste as much material because sometimes when i cut with a hacksaw, i get lazy and then cut too much and end up being short. With the saw i can trim down little by little until i get a perfect fit. For the price of 3 bitspower fittings, the saw is a good purchase...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Yeah the saw definitely helped me save time...not only that, but i don't waste as much material because sometimes when i cut with a hacksaw, i get lazy and then cut too much and end up being short. With the saw i can trim down little by little until i get a perfect fit. For the price of 3 bitspower fittings, the saw is a good purchase...


Would cost me about the same for a 6 pack of Monsoon fittings. So I have no problems setting aside the funds to make fitting tubes much easier.









Shoot it would cost as much as a BP Mini Valve + Shipping from PPCs.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would cost me about the same for a 6 pack of Monsoon fittings. So I have no problems setting aside the funds to make fitting tubes much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shoot it would cost as much as a BP Mini Valve + Shipping from PPCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol*
> 
> ~Ceadder


HAHA!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> that Phobya is just a rebrand in my opinion but its doing its job what i did was upgrade from a small case so i had room to put it back in


Watercool that motherboard and push that 8350 as far as she'll go!


----------



## wermad

I forgot to mention I found my led red illumination issue. It's the led as the xspc and jab-tech oem ones were much brighter. I tried running the broken led without the resistor on a 5v and she died. I'll use these for something else. I'm ordering some xspc ones from ppcs.com and that should take care of it.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Yeah the saw definitely helped me save time...not only that, but i don't waste as much material because sometimes when i cut with a hacksaw, i get lazy and then cut too much and end up being short. With the saw i can trim down little by little until i get a perfect fit. For the price of 3 bitspower fittings, the saw is a good purchase...


For this exact reason I considered going glass tubing in my builds. I always end up a tad bit too long or to short. And since I don't bend belt use fittings for all corners it bothers me if they only are just a mill off.







thanks for the great tip! +Rep


----------



## ruffhi

I thought I saw somewhere in here some comments about cleaning / flushing a new radiator by hooking it up to a kitchen tap and letting it run. I was thinking about hooking it up to a garden tap with something like this (see below).

Good idea, bad idea, doesn't make any difference idea?


----------



## Costas

Ideally you want to use a hot water tap to run hot water through the rad as this helps dissolve some of the impurities.

Also be mindful of pressure as some households do have relatively high pressure water supplies and this can damage a rad if not careful.

Let the water run through say 30 mins at a moderate flow rate and then connect up in reverse and do the same.

Give it a shake or two here and there as the water is running through..

Finally rinse two or three times with distilled.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I thought I saw somewhere in here some comments about cleaning / flushing a new radiator by hooking it up to a kitchen tap and letting it run. I was thinking about hooking it up to a garden tap with something like this (see below).
> 
> Good idea, bad idea, doesn't make any difference idea?


Its what I do...be careful how much pressure you give tho. Mains pressure will wreck a rad easily.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Ideally you want to use a hot water tap to run hot water through the rad as this helps dissolve some of the impurities.
> 
> Also be mindful of pressure as some households do have relatively high pressure water supplies and this can damage a rad if not careful.
> 
> Let the water run through say 30 mins at a moderate flow rate and then connect up in reverse and do the same.
> 
> Give it a shake or two here and there as the water is running through..
> 
> Finally rinse two or three times with distilled.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its what I do...be careful how much pressure you give tho. Mains pressure will wreck a rad easily.


Thanks guys. Excellent tip re mains pressure.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*Dr. Peter Venkman*: Right. That's bad. Okay. All right. Important safety tip. Thanks, Egon.



I was hanging out at CVS the other day (doesn't everyone do that?) and noticed a gallon of distilled for about $1.70. Google ways walmart has it for about 80c but they are 5 miles away







.


----------



## Trito

Speaking about radiator flushing. I recently cleaned my Black Ice Nemesis with hot distilled water and shaking method. Only got two very small pieces out. Wonder if it was really that clean or I did something wrong


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> For this exact reason I considered going glass tubing in my builds. I always end up a tad bit too long or to short. And since I don't bend belt use fittings for all corners it bothers me if they only are just a mill off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for the great tip! +Rep


Hey you're welcome, that's what this board is for...helping others out, to solve a problem or share ideas on how to do certain things.

I should ask harbor freight for commission, i think i've helped them sell a few of this...lol


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Speaking about radiator flushing. I recently cleaned my Black Ice Nemesis with hot distilled water and shaking method. Only got two very small pieces out. Wonder if it was really that clean or I did something wrong


Had almost the same experience with my XSPC AX rads... I didn't do the let it run for a while method but I did filled with with almost boiling water and shook about a dozen times and nothing come out... So I went with the they got cleaned before boxing for sale.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Speaking about radiator flushing. I recently cleaned my Black Ice Nemesis with hot distilled water and shaking method. Only got two very small pieces out. Wonder if it was really that clean or I did something wrong


HWLabs have been inconsistent for the past year or so for internal cleanliness.
Some are really clean as you seem to have, some not so much
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Had almost the same experience with my XSPC AX rads... I didn't do the let it run for a while method but I did filled with with almost boiling water and shook about a dozen times and nothing come out... So I went with the they got cleaned before boxing for sale.


XSPC Rads have a very good reputation for being very clean when flushing and the 1/2 dozen or so I've dealt with were all great.


----------



## mouacyk

I got some black gunk to come out of my nemesis 360 gtx when filled with near boiling filtered water, shaken then flushed.


----------



## BrjSan

Hey guys i need your water cooling skills in here please: Fitting GlideStream 140 on EK CE 420

peace


----------



## lowfat

Anyone have any suggestions on cleaning out a XSPC Photon reservoir? I have residue from dye I'd like to remove. Normally I would just open the reservoir but AFAIK that isn't a possibility. I've tried Randy's Black Label glass cleaner but it didn't help much. I won't be using dye again so I'd like the loop to be spotless if possible.

Almost done w/ my Skylake upgrade. 8-pin EPS + bending one tubing run from the pump to the Supreme HF.


----------



## emsj86

I would say use a baby bottle brush. But if you can't open it than not sure how it can be cleaned.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Almost done w/ my Skylake upgrade. 8-pin EPS + bending one tubing run from the pump to the Supreme HF.
> ]


I really like the sleeving on the tubes. Nice touch.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> HWLabs have been inconsistent for the past year or so for internal cleanliness.
> Some are really clean as you seem to have, some not so much


I see. Well I boiled 1 liter of distilled water, let it cool down for a bit. Filled up the rad, waited 2-3min and than shook for 5min or so. Repeat until I used up all one liter. All I got out of it was 2 around 1mm small, black metallic peaces.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Speaking about radiator flushing. I recently cleaned my Black Ice Nemesis with hot distilled water and shaking method. Only got two very small pieces out. Wonder if it was really that clean or I did something wrong


Mine was quite clean too, I used vinegar and boiling water in mine and loads of blue crap came out, but not much in the way of little bits.


----------



## jodybdesigns

I can't get a clear picture of it, but what is the white stuff floating in my rezzie? I am using advanced LRT white tubing.

I did redo my loop 3 weeks ago, and I swore I cleaned it out good enough by flushing the loop with about 2 gallons of distilled in a bucket. I also have a white ring around the top. Like hard water stains??? What's going on??


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on cleaning out a XSPC Photon reservoir? I have residue from dye I'd like to remove. Normally I would just open the reservoir but AFAIK that isn't a possibility. I've tried Randy's Black Label glass cleaner but it didn't help much. I won't be using dye again so I'd like the loop to be spotless if possible.
> 
> Almost done w/ my Skylake upgrade. 8-pin EPS + bending one tubing run from the pump to the Supreme HF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tubing has an...interesting....routing. Still got that Lowfat look tho!
Very tidy work.

In other news,Im off to Taiwan!



Im taking a 4" grinder and a large hammer.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on cleaning out a XSPC Photon reservoir? I have residue from dye I'd like to remove. Normally I would just open the reservoir but AFAIK that isn't a possibility.


They are actually reasonably simple to open up.

Check out my following posts on how to open them up: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/180#post_23814428

Also FYI - a mod that I came up with for the standalone Photons: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/190#post_24003175


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on cleaning out a XSPC Photon reservoir? I have residue from dye I'd like to remove. Normally I would just open the reservoir but AFAIK that isn't a possibility. I've tried Randy's Black Label glass cleaner but it didn't help much. I won't be using dye again so I'd like the loop to be spotless if possible.
> 
> Almost done w/ my Skylake upgrade. 8-pin EPS + bending one tubing run from the pump to the Supreme HF.


well at first glance I was just going to comment and how fantastic the sleeved hardlines look, but since I'm on my phone right now I made the image a little smaller and scroll down in the whole build looks fantastic. Great job. some of you guys impressed me so much with your skills feel like I shouldn't even be talking to you, like I'm some sort of peasant. :/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Order from PPC's and shipping with UPS. See anything odd?



TCO

Ville Platte is actually closer than Baton Rouge...


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Order from PPC's and shipping with UPS. See anything odd?
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Ville Platte is actually closer than Baton Rouge...


Ouch. USPS is the worst, and are not really any cheaper for stuff over 2 lbs.


----------



## VSG

Oh yeah, I have had USPS take products out on road trips many times before.

On a different note, I got an XSPC Ion here undergoing testing. Nifty little thing given how small it is:


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh yeah, I have had USPS take products out on road trips many times before.
> 
> On a different note, I got an XSPC Ion here undergoing testing. Nifty little thing given how small it is:


That's going to be a very interesting pump for the SFF world. Looks pretty nice, too. I think I'd prefer a classic tube res in places where you have more space, but it's something to keep in mind, for sure.


----------



## ruffhi

I had a package mailed to my old address (via USPS) and a 'redirect' to my new address ... poor thing would get to Boston then back to White Plains (NY), then back to Boston, White Plains, Boston ... etc ... it went back and forth about 12 times before my phone calls to USPS got hold of someone who actually cared ... then it disappeared for a while ... and then materialized at my front door. I am pretty sure the guy I talked to went and got it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Speaking about radiator flushing. I recently cleaned my Black Ice Nemesis with hot distilled water and shaking method. Only got two very small pieces out. Wonder if it was really that clean or I did something wrong


Actually this is pretty typical of HWLabs Radiators from what I have seen. I use Distilled and Vinegar hot flushes and have never gotten much out of my HWLabs Black Ice Stealth. Of course I do it by hand and the bloomin things get hot enough that you can feel it along the rails if you're bare handed.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I would say use a baby bottle brush. But if you can't open it than not sure how it can be cleaned.


This. Use a lemon/vinegar mixture then use the same with half distilled then straight distilled to flush the residues out.

I've also used bicarbonate and vinegar in a paste to scrub out hardwater deposits. It works fairly well.

Not sure if anyone has tried this next technique but dishwashers with liquid gel packs may be another way to go so long as the tube is away from the heating element at the bottom and the dry cycle is turned off. Heat is no bueno for acrylic.









I'm gonna be moving to a place with a Dishwasher soon, so if I don't sell my FQ Res, I may just sacrifice it for the experiment.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## brazilianloser

It took me a few months to notice this but now that I have noticed I do not like it. Was rebuilding/planning a new way of doing my loop prior to getting my motherboard back from MSI and noticed when trying a small straight run out of the rad into the reservoir that was shorter than the previous run. Any ideas on how to deal with it without voiding the warranty or just be patient and do an RMA on it???

XSPC AX240


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh yeah, I have had USPS take products out on road trips many times before.
> 
> On a different note, I got an XSPC Ion here undergoing testing. Nifty little thing given how small it is:


is that xspc ion more powerful that the pump that came with h220 x2?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> That's going to be a very interesting pump for the SFF world. Looks pretty nice, too. I think I'd prefer a classic tube res in places where you have more space, but it's something to keep in mind, for sure.


It's not a cylinder but functionally no different:










As far as mounting goes,




























There are 4 holes on the back and thumbscrews provided that can go through thin case panels. Alternatively, one can use longer screws also. Also, it comes with these mounts:



















and these can be secured on to 120/140mm fan holes:


----------



## Trito

Today I had some time so I opened up my Supremacy Full Nickel to change the jet plate and now I'm paranoid it will leak when I finally compleate my loop. It's just scary how that one o-ring is holding all that water from leaking on the CPU.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Today I had some time so I opened up my Supremacy Full Nickel to change the jet plate and now I'm paranoid it will leak when I finally compleate my loop. It's just scary how that one o-ring is holding all that water from leaking on the CPU.


No different than the small O-rings on each fitting. It will be fine, just follow the instructions and don't hesitate to ask if you are confused at any point


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> It took me a few months to notice this but now that I have noticed I do not like it. Was rebuilding/planning a new way of doing my loop prior to getting my motherboard back from MSI and noticed when trying a small straight run out of the rad into the reservoir that was shorter than the previous run. Any ideas on how to deal with it without voiding the warranty or just be patient and do an RMA on it???
> 
> XSPC AX240


I assume you are talking about the fitting not being straight? I'm mobile so it's kinda hard to see. Several of my rads have been like that, xspc and EK especially. I never noticed until I went to petg and now it bugs the crap out of me. I ended up putting small bends in my petg and I can barely notice normally, only if I'm really down looking at it can I tell.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No different than the small O-rings on each fitting. It will be fine, just follow the instructions and don't hesitate to ask if you are confused at any point


Thanks, I appreciate it.
Speaking about Ion. Literally last thing I need is pump/res combo and I was looking at EK-XRES D5 Revo. However this one is two times cheaper and smaller, thus I might be able to add another 120 rad if I use this. What would be noise & performance difference between this and D5?

Ion:
420lph
pressure 2m
ek-d5:
1500lph
pressure 3.9m

how that would translate to real life difference with 120.2 and 120.1?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I assume you are talking about the fitting not being straight? I'm mobile so it's kinda hard to see. Several of my rads have been like that, xspc and EK especially. I never noticed until I went to petg and now it bugs the crap out of me. I ended up putting small bends in my petg and I can barely notice normally, only if I'm really down looking at it can I tell.


Exactly. didn't notice before because the run was longer but now the new way I will have my loop the run form it to the reservoir is tiny and it is just too blatant. Hoping to figure out a simple way to deal with it. XSPC support said it was normal too... so I guess selling products with imperfections that can actually affect someone's build is okay.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Thanks, I appreciate it.
> Speaking about Ion. Literally last thing I need is pump/res combo and I was looking at EK-XRES D5 Revo. However this one is two times cheaper and smaller, thus I might be able to add another 120 rad if I use this. What would be noise & performance difference between this and D5?
> 
> Ion:
> 420lph
> pressure 2m
> ek-d5:
> 1500lph
> pressure 3.9m
> 
> how that would translate to real life difference with 120.2 and 120.1?


Look out for more info headed your way.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tubing has an...interesting....routing. Still got that Lowfat look tho!
> Very tidy work.
> 
> In other news,Im off to Taiwan!
> 
> Im taking a 4" grinder and a large hammer.


It is the only way I could figure out to get all my pipes to be on a horizontal and vertical plane only. Videocard inlet/outlets don't line up w/ the CPU block unfortunately.

Have fun.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> They are actually reasonably simple to open up.
> 
> Check out my following posts on how to open them up: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/180#post_23814428
> 
> Also FYI - a mod that I came up for the standalone Photons: http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/190#post_24003175


Dood thanks. I scrubbed the snot out it. Then dried w/ a microfiber. It looks like a million bucks now. Honestly can't remember it being so clear and shiny.
















I actually use the fill port as an inlet so your idea doesn't work for me.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Exactly. didn't notice before because the run was longer but now the new way I will have my loop the run form it to the reservoir is tiny and it is just too blatant. Hoping to figure out a simple way to deal with it. XSPC support said it was normal too... so I guess selling products with imperfections that can actually affect someone's build is okay.


according to my eyes, both of my alphacool UT60's are straight as an arrow on all 7 ports, UT30 is good too, but my EK XFX 240 and my XSPC EX280, AX240 all have ports that seem point up slightly if the ports are at the top.

anybody know what manufacturers do or don't have this issue? especially hardwarelabs, I've never owned one but I can see that being my next move since they have some great rads


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> according to my eyes, both of my alphacool UT60's are straight as an arrow on all 7 ports, UT30 is good too, but my EK XFX 240 and my XSPC EX280, AX240 all have ports that seem point up slightly if the ports are at the top.
> 
> anybody know what manufacturers do or don't have this issue? especially hardwarelabs, I've never owned one but I can see that being my next move since they have some great rads


I burst out laughing coz I just took this photo last night of a Swifty.

Reality is that no ports should be installed at odd angles - but I think it depends on quality control and the process worker who installes them on any given day.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> according to my eyes, both of my alphacool UT60's are straight as an arrow on all 7 ports, UT30 is good too, but my EK XFX 240 and my XSPC EX280, AX240 all have ports that seem point up slightly if the ports are at the top.
> 
> anybody know what manufacturers do or don't have this issue? especially hardwarelabs, I've never owned one but I can see that being my next move since they have some great rads


Xspc rep said is a common thing... Which makes no sense to me since anyone running hard tubing would notice that nonsense. Just hoping for some genius to help me out with an easy diy fix before I go in there and try on my own and mess up something I shouldn't. But next time around and any other build I do for friends for now on will no longer rock xspc rads of any form.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Reality is that no ports should be installed at odd angles - but I think it depends on quality control and the process worker who installes them on any given day.


Problem is a lot more common than people realise...

My last purchase of 3 Alphacool rads:

1x 45mm x 560 - All ports pretty much spot on.

1x 60mm x 560 - One copper tank end cap is not soldered exactly square so all three ports on the end cap are slightly out...!

1x 80mm x 560 - All ports spot on.

Generally you can usually work around this with the odd rotary etc allowing for some play, however if you attach tubing direct to the port as shown in fast_fates pic then that can really stuff you up...









...and that example you have fast_fate is probably one of the worst I have seen...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I burst out laughing coz I just took this photo last night of a Swifty.
> 
> Reality is that no ports should be installed at odd angles - but I think it depends on quality control and the process worker who installes them on any given day.


that is appalling!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> according to my eyes, both of my alphacool UT60's are straight as an arrow on all 7 ports, UT30 is good too, but my EK XFX 240 and my XSPC EX280, AX240 all have ports that seem point up slightly if the ports are at the top.
> 
> anybody know what manufacturers do or don't have this issue? especially hardwarelabs, I've never owned one but I can see that being my next move since they have some great rads
> 
> 
> 
> I burst out laughing coz I just took this photo last night of a Swifty.
> 
> Reality is that no ports should be installed at odd angles - but I think it depends on quality control and the process worker who installes them on any given day.
Click to expand...

Have you tried plugging the ports and heating the tank? It should expand the tank enough to get the ports lined up properly. Just don't overheat the thing or it could be nothing but bad.









My only other thought is to use a few long extensions connected together and using a vice to hold it in place, pull slowly with reasonable tension on the extensions. It won't make it perfect but it should also manipulate that soft brass tank enough to make it straighter after a fashion.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you tried plugging the ports and heating the tank? It should expand the tank enough to get the ports lined up properly. Just don't overheat the thing or it could be nothing but bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My only other thought is to use a few long extensions connected together and using a vice to hold it in place, pull slowly with reasonable tension on the extensions. It won't make it perfect but it should also manipulate that soft brass tank enough to make it straighter after a fashion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'ld be RMA'ing the thing if I had paid for it.
As it's a review sample it'll go back in the box after testing - never to be seen again (not by me anyway)
At least the base of the fittings screws down enough so the O-ring can seal and I can actually test it, even that scraped paint on the way in


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I burst out laughing coz I just took this photo last night of a Swifty.
> 
> Reality is that no ports should be installed at odd angles - but I think it depends on quality control and the process worker who installes them on any given day.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's appalling. As far as I can tell (I don't have any rigid tubing on hand), my ST30 is straight as a rail, but my PE240 is angled slightly up (or down, depending on the orientation). I could see this being an issue, as the application I had for this thing has some pretty low tolerances.


----------



## VSG

Yeah, that's easily the worst alignment of any rads I have here as well.


----------



## Trito

Ion review is out if anyone is interested - http://thermalbench.com/2016/03/03/xspc-ion-pumpreservoir/
I think I will go with it for now as it is much cheaper than EK-XRES I was looking at.


----------



## charliebrown

How can I get my GPU plexi back to looking crystal clear after dye staining


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> How can I get my GPU plexi back to looking crystal clear after dye staining


Good guide there.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1477681/polishing-acrylic-guide-tips-tricks


----------



## wermad

Meh, no one makes decent (non-pwm) fan hubs, I'm throwing in the towel and getting Thermaltake Commanders. I'll switch to a new controller, probably a Lamptron FC8. Though, is "1st PC Corp" the next G-Vans or is it og Lamptron or something else? Newegg has the FC8 for sale but I spotted a Lamptron (might be og) on ebay for $5 more.


----------



## mongoled

Guys what I do and dont try this is you aint comfortable is the following,

I screw a barb into the outlet, all the way down, then get something that is at least 10-15cm long is metal and does not bend that fits into the barb pretty snug.

I then carefully using as little force/movement as possible lever the metal to straighten the outlet.

Seeing the metals are soft metals, i.e. copper/brass/aluminium and you are not doing this over and over again, and you dont 'slip' and lever too far, you can have these straightened in no time.

But if you aint comfortable doing this type of stuff, stay away,

lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mongoled*
> 
> Guys what I do and dont try this is you aint comfortable is the following,
> 
> I screw a barb into the outlet, all the way down, then get something that is at least 10-15cm long is metal and does not bend that fits into the barb pretty snug.
> 
> I then carefully using as little force/movement as possible lever the metal to straighten the outlet.
> 
> Seeing the metals are soft metals, i.e. copper/brass/aluminium and you are not doing this over and over again, and you dont 'slip' and lever too far, you can have these straightened in no time.
> 
> But if you aint comfortable doing this type of stuff, stay away,
> 
> lol


In some rads you can accidentally break the weld of the threaded insert from the endcap, so really be careful when attempting this (Also you can reseal & set a broken insert into and endcap, I recommend screwing a fitting in before you seal too)


----------



## Trito

Pretty happy that I went with full nickel at the end. I think it looks good together with black fittings.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mongoled*
> 
> Guys what I do and dont try this is you aint comfortable is the following,
> 
> I screw a barb into the outlet, all the way down, then get something that is at least 10-15cm long is metal and does not bend that fits into the barb pretty snug.
> 
> I then carefully using as little force/movement as possible lever the metal to straighten the outlet.
> 
> Seeing the metals are soft metals, i.e. copper/brass/aluminium and you are not doing this over and over again, and you dont 'slip' and lever too far, you can have these straightened in no time.
> 
> But if you aint comfortable doing this type of stuff, stay away,
> 
> lol


I do the exact same thing except I use a Primochill Revolver fitting so there are no worries about tweaking inserts or anything. (just an o-ring and metal) A few firm, but careful bumps generally straighten the ports out quite nicely. A barb would work great as well, but I've had the rigid fitting and extra junk tube around for a while.


----------



## Trito

Some progress on how my first ever WC build will look with EK Blood Red flowing through the veins.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Aah that blue sticker on the logo! Remove it!

Sorry, that's my pet peeve. =D

Nice pictures!


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Aah that blue sticker on the logo! Remove it!
> 
> Sorry, that's my pet peeve. =D
> 
> Nice pictures!


I used a Supremacy VGA block on my 980 under the shroud. I was in a rush and forgot to take that sticker off until I had everything assembled, including the shroud and window covering it all lol


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Aah that blue sticker on the logo! Remove it!
> 
> Sorry, that's my pet peeve. =D
> 
> Nice pictures!


Thanks. Will do just before loop is complete. Don't want to scratch it or smth


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I used a Supremacy VGA block on my 980 under the shroud. I was in a rush and forgot to take that sticker off until I had everything assembled, including the shroud and window covering it all lol


I once forgot to remove protective film from NVIDIA reference cooler plastic window on my new Titan Black. A month later I was like, arrggghhh that thing was there all this time.


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't remove the protective stickers until I am satisfied I am no longer going to tinker with my loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mongoled*
> 
> Guys what I do and dont try this is you aint comfortable is the following,
> 
> I screw a barb into the outlet, all the way down, then get something that is at least 10-15cm long is metal and does not bend that fits into the barb pretty snug.
> 
> I then carefully using as little force/movement as possible lever the metal to straighten the outlet.
> 
> Seeing the metals are soft metals, i.e. copper/brass/aluminium and you are not doing this over and over again, and you dont 'slip' and lever too far, you can have these straightened in no time.
> 
> But if you aint comfortable doing this type of stuff, stay away,
> 
> lol


Guess I need to give this a try... because that angle is driving me nuts...

but what it I will be on here a day from now crying about my even more broken rad.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Guess I need to give this a try... because that angle is driving me nuts...
> 
> but what it I will be on here a day from now crying about my even more broken rad.


I would much rather go with the needle nose pliers thing that I mentioned to you elsewhere first, it's simpler and will confirm whether or not the threads themselves are at fault here.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Guess I need to give this a try... because that angle is driving me nuts...
> 
> but what it I will be on here a day from now crying about my even more broken rad.


Then that's your own fault. No one is responsible for modifications that you do to your own hardware, even if you're trying to fix it. If you want to be a _bit_ safer about it, you can heat up the end caps before you try to bend the threads back into place, which'll make the metal a little bit more malleable and less likely to crack or break.

Edit: DON'T DO THIS. Apparently it can cause more damage than its worth. Instead, look at @Ceadderman's post below for a better method.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Some progress on how my first ever WC build will look with EK Blood Red flowing through the veins.


How is that xflow? I'm about to pick up a new one because my ancient stealth x flow has too many fins for my sp120 quiets.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Then that's your own fault. No one is responsible for modifications that you do to your own hardware, even if you're trying to fix it. If you want to be a _bit_ safer about it, you can heat up the end caps before you try to bend the threads back into place, which'll make the metal a little bit more malleable and less likely to crack or break.


I am well aware it would be my responsibility. Anyways will try a few less crazy things first but if comes down to this heating up the port is a very good idea.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> I am well aware it would be my responsibility. Anyways will try a few less crazy things first but if comes down to this heating up the port is a very good idea.


Maybe you mentioned this before and I missed it, but why not just RMA it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you are dead set on trying to straighten that port, get some 1/4" threaded bar and use that. Screw it into the port and lift the port, try to not lever on the port.
You could do the same thing with an old fitting and a vice.

Watch the port brazing tho.....


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Maybe you mentioned this before and I missed it, but why not just RMA it?


According to XSPC its a normal variance during the stamping process or some nonsense like that, which means is not their fault and that is not RMA material... and since I didn't notice when I bought it five months back is a bit too late to exchange through the seller. But at least now I know to check and make sure in the future.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you are dead set on trying to straighten that port, get some 1/4" threaded bar and use that. Screw it into the port and lift the port, try to not lever on the port.
> You could do the same thing with an old fitting and a vice.
> 
> Watch the port brazing tho.....


yeah will try a few things for recommended by other folks here, will leave the forceful bending in shape for last resort...


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> According to XSPC its a normal variance during the stamping process or some nonsense like that, which means is not their fault and that is not RMA material... and since I didn't notice when I bought it five months back is a bit too late to exchange through the seller. But at least now I know to check and make sure in the future.
> yeah will try a few things for recommended by other folks here, will leave the forceful bending in shape for last resort...


That sounds like a horrible excuse! They know people use this for cooling and aesthetics and to me that's crazy! I understand a normal variance but yours is overboard IMHO.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you are working with Alu,you dont even need that (although it helps!), I have done a lot of work with......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the suggestion re the fret saw. I picked up one at HomeDepot this afternoon, cut a suitable hole in the bottom section of my CaseLabs S5 pedestal and installed the shutoff valve. This picture is missing the feet so that 1.5 inches tall gap showing will grow to 2.6'' ... pleaty of room for me to get my paw in there rotate the valve.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Guess I need to give this a try... because that angle is driving me nuts...
> 
> but what it I will be on here a day from now crying about my even more broken rad.
> 
> 
> 
> Then that's your own fault. No one is responsible for modifications that you do to your own hardware, even if you're trying to fix it. If you want to be a _bit_ safer about it, you can heat up the end caps before you try to bend the threads back into place, which'll make the metal a little bit more malleable and less likely to crack or break.
Click to expand...

Yeah um no. If you heat up the bungs, you're likely to have disastrous results. Those bungs are brazed in place. Heating the bungs could cause the brazing to fail and bungs to break free of the tank. The reason for them to be uneven could likely be attributed to too much heat applied during the brazing process warping the brass sheet metal.

It's much better to heat the end of the tank which in turn will spread to the sides of it and then using a lever of some sort tugging into the direction necessary to straighten the ports. Never put heat directly to the ports. Doing so is no bueno imho.
















@ XSPCs' crazed logic that it's a "variance" issue. The sheet is flat, the forms don't change. It's at the assembly end not the "variance" end. Radiators are hand built after all. Variance can be solved with proper training.









~Ceadder


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah um no. If you heat up the bungs, you're likely to have disastrous results. Those bungs are brazed in place. Heating the bungs could cause the brazing to fail and bungs to break free of the tank. The reason for them to be uneven could likely be attributed to too much heat applied during the brazing process warping the brass sheet metal.
> 
> It's much better to heat the end of the tank which in turn will spread to the sides of it and then using a lever of some sort tugging into the direction necessary to straighten the ports. Never put heat directly to the ports. Doing so is no bueno imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ XSPCs' crazed logic that it's a "variance" issue. The sheet is flat, the forms don't change. It's at the assembly end not the "variance" end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry, and thanks for the correction.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah um no. If you heat up the bungs, you're likely to have disastrous results. Those bungs are brazed in place. Heating the bungs could cause the brazing to fail and bungs to break free of the tank. The reason for them to be uneven could likely be attributed to too much heat applied during the brazing process warping the brass sheet metal.
> 
> It's much better to heat the end of the tank which in turn will spread to the sides of it and then using a lever of some sort tugging into the direction necessary to straighten the ports. Never put heat directly to the ports. Doing so is no bueno imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ XSPCs' crazed logic that it's a "variance" issue. The sheet is flat, the forms don't change. It's at the assembly end not the "variance" end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, and thanks for the correction.
Click to expand...

No worries. I only brought it up to intervene on the behalf of anyone suffering from misaligned ports. You did nothing wrong by communicating your thoughts. How are we supposed to learn otherwise.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion re the fret saw. I picked up one at HomeDepot this afternoon, cut a suitable hole in the bottom section of my CaseLabs S5 pedestal and installed the shutoff valve. This picture is missing the feet so that 1.5 inches tall gap showing will grow to 2.6'' ... pleaty of room for me to get my paw in there rotate the valve.
> 
> *snip*


If you have a Harbor freight near by, get a set of step bits. They're very useful in makings small holes for things like this. The largest bit I have goes up to 1.25" I think. A bit of wd-40 helps with the aluminum and make sure you have something supporting the panel. If you have a drill press, that works very good but most of the time you'll end up needing the good ol' cordless drill. I had to install three barrow pass-throughs (aka "bulkheads") and though my bits are getting old, they made it through a 3/16 thick acrylic sheet and the CL mid-panel as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

I need to set some funds aside and get me a couple of those step bits.









~Ceadder


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you have a Harbor freight near by, get a set of step bits. They're very useful in makings small holes for things like this. The largest bit I have goes up to 1.25" I think. A bit of wd-40 helps with the aluminum and make sure you have something supporting the panel. If you have a drill press, that works very good but most of the time you'll end up needing the good ol' cordless drill. I had to install three barrow pass-throughs (aka "bulkheads") and though my bits are getting old, they made it through a 3/16 thick acrylic sheet and the CL mid-panel as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah step bits are the way... used a whole saw bid and scratched up my case in the process... Need to get me a set for future use here as well.

Amazon also has some good deals on sets Amazon


----------



## ruffhi

Thx wermad. I have a set of those on their way to me. I called them HarborLate in my thread


----------



## Costas

Once you have used step drills, you will wonder how you ever did without them.....


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Once you have used step drills, you will wonder how you ever did without them.....


first time you use one you are just blown away by how clean the hole is!


----------



## DaClownie

Harborfreight has those bits on sale right now for $8.99 for a 3 bit kit, plus there's a 20% coupon available. I found this out right after I bought a set for $60 at Home Depot 2 weeks prior. Such is life. haha


----------



## wermad

Hmmm. I'm showing $13.99 for the triple kit that goes as wide as 3/4". The bigger ones, with one going as wide as 1-3/8", is on sale for $19.99 (I didn't factor any applicable coupons btw, just site pricing).

I'm heading there tomorrow and I'll see what the local pricing has. I'm finding out the casters I want are not in the CL bolt pattern, so I may just do some steal adapter plates







. Will need a fresh set of these bits to make this project feasible.

edit:

Thinking of getting one of these:



Might be cheaper then buying a new drill press. I wanna make sure the holes are done right (meds and age are catching up







). Old press died a few years back and I don't wanna drop $100-200 on a new one if my cordless or corded hammer can do the job. Those $50 craftsmen on craig's sell quick







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Back onto the topic of Radiator manufacturing...

Yes guys I know that it's a Tt liardeo and that this is aluminum they're working with(likely Automotive radiator factory) but this is essentially similar to how Quality suppliers make theirs.





Sadly this was the only hit I got in my Google search that was relevant to the topic at hand.

So let's say they do everything as Tt does in their manufacturing process. How in sam hades does the port tank get that borked and then how in sam hades does the afflicted review product get by quality control. To me the later part is the most ridiculous happenstance I've ever heard of.

Imagine ASUS sending out the Crosshair IV Formula to a reviewer back during the NB heat issue days and it's afflicted by the issue. Manufacturers are gonna cherry pick the line to get the best samples to the reviewers. This is how things are and how things will always be...

well not with at least one manufacturer.







lol

So grab your Microwave popcorn and enjoy.









Please don't flame me in response of the manufacturer. I am no fan of Tt but it was the only relative vid I could find.









~Ceadder


----------



## Laithan

Houston.. got a problem..

Well I think I know what this orange coloring is... I think it is RUST...
















Note that the tubing at the bottom is clear and the tubing at the top is rust colored...I am pretty sure it is coming from that chipset block...I am pulling this board and upgrading so I won't be using that chipset block anymore. It has spread out (worse) since this pic was taken.


There is also a 420mm rad to the right of the pic that isn't visible. So I've got the 2 rads, the res, the pump, flow meter, the cpu block and both GPU blocks all to to clean







. I've bought all new fittings and tubing for the next build so at least I don't need to clean those.

What is the best way to flush all the components out in that loop so that I can re-use them in the new build without having rust deposits leftover? I have read about using vinegar and distilled water but I'm not sure if I am going to need something a bit more 'heavy duty"...I plan to disassemble everything for cleaning but there will obviously be areas I won't be able to clean by hand. Will vinegar and water be good enough? Would it be a horrible thing to do if I used house hold cleaning agents (dilluted)? Can I run HOT tap water through everything and then flush with distilled?

Should I keep the loop together and run an additive through it (like vinegar and water) for a few hours to break it all down or would that just make it worse and spread it around more? Need some good advice please I really don't want to put this loop all back together and find that I missed some rust residue.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Back onto the topic of Radiator manufacturing...
> 
> Yes guys I know that it's a Tt liardeo and that this is aluminum they're working with(likely Automotive radiator factory) but this is essentially similar to how Quality suppliers make theirs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly this was the only hit I got in my Google search that was relevant to the topic at hand.
> 
> So let's say they do everything as Tt does in their manufacturing process. How in sam hades does the port tank get that borked and then how in sam hades does the afflicted review product get by quality control. To me the later part is the most ridiculous happenstance I've ever heard of.
> 
> Imagine ASUS sending out the Crosshair IV Formula to a reviewer back during the NB heat issue days and it's afflicted by the issue. Manufacturers are gonna cherry pick the line to get the best samples to the reviewers. This is how things are and how things will always be...
> 
> well not with at least one manufacturer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> So grab your Microwave popcorn and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please don't flame me in response of the manufacturer. I am no fan of Tt but it was the only relative vid I could find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ceadder, I agree wholeheartedly! The fact that XSPC can say that there is a margin of error is ridiculous! No other manufacturer has that bad of an issue and if they say this is normal, maybe they need to stop production and review their manufacturing processes.

I also am not a huge fan of tT (even though I have the new Core P5 and love it, great build quality) but even they seem like they wouldn't allow that kind of error!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> *My head is spinning* with these options for my new build so I figured I would ask for some advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So how should I route the water??!? Does it matter?*
> 
> I am assuming that I'd want to have the water go through a rad after it leaves the CPU/VRM/CHIPSET blocks.... and likewise that I'd want to have the water go through a rad after it leaves the GPUs.
> 
> Here is what the board looks like for my new build. In addition I have a CPU and 2 GPU blocks being added to the loop:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: RIVBE w/blocks


Oh, darn, I still need to put my water blocks onto my RIVBE. Need to do it this upcoming week since I get a break between classes. But it either work on case or speed run Zelda:Twilight Princess HD.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Houston.. got a problem..
> 
> Well I think I know what this orange coloring is... I think it is RUST...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that the tubing at the bottom is clear and the tubing at the top is rust colored...I am pretty sure it is coming from that chipset block...I am pulling this board and upgrading so I won't be using that chipset block anymore. It has spread out (worse) since this pic was taken.
> 
> 
> There is also a 420mm rad to the right of the pic that isn't visible. So I've got the 2 rads, the res, the pump, flow meter, the cpu block and both GPU blocks all to to clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've bought all new fittings and tubing for the next build so at least I don't need to clean those.
> 
> What is the best way to flush all the components out in that loop so that I can re-use them in the new build without having rust deposits leftover? I have read about using vinegar and distilled water but I'm not sure if I am going to need something a bit more 'heavy duty"...I plan to disassemble everything for cleaning but there will obviously be areas I won't be able to clean by hand. Will vinegar and water be good enough? Would it be a horrible thing to do if I used house hold cleaning agents (dilluted)? Can I run HOT tap water through everything and then flush with distilled?
> 
> Should I keep the loop together and run an additive through it (like vinegar and water) for a few hours to break it all down or would that just make it worse and spread it around more? Need some good advice please I really don't want to put this loop all back together and find that I missed some rust residue.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


The only way you see "rust" is if there is steel in your loop. That said, if it is coming from your CPU block, it's possible that you only need replace the focusing plate if your Swiftech block comes with one. I've never had a Swiftech block so I'm unsure whether it has one or not. But my EK block does and that's where I imagine rust would be coming from if their was an issue with it.

So take a deep breath, drain your loop and take a peek at the edges of that plate if there is one in your block. Cause I can say with certainty that it's not copper unless there are little copper particles floating around in your system coming from the CPU block. If it were copper rust(the correct term is Patina) it would be greenish in tint, not orange.









Edit: My bad, I realized that you were referring to the chipset block. I am relatively sure that ASUS didn't run steel piping. Aluminum or Copper. And while Aluminum rusts I don't think that it's that but icbw since that's a *really* old board.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

There are three loops in that picture????


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Edit: My bad, I realized that you were referring to the chipset block. I am relatively sure that ASUS didn't run steel piping. Aluminum or Copper. And while Aluminum rusts I don't think that it's that but icbw since that's a *really* old board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Copper turns blackish in water, aluminum turns white, that particular color is a mystery for sure.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Edit: My bad, I realized that you were referring to the chipset block. I am relatively sure that ASUS didn't run steel piping. Aluminum or Copper. And while Aluminum rusts I don't think that it's that but icbw since that's a *really* old board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper turns blackish in water, aluminum turns white, *that particular color is a mystery for sure*.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

Wasn't aware that Patina was blackish though. I had white tubing on my loop and it took on a greenish tint. I've only copper in my loop other than the Nickel plated MB Block.









~Ceadder


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> Wasn't aware that Patina was blackish though. I had white tubing on my loop and it took on a greenish tint. I've only copper in my loop other than the Nickel plated MB Block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well, green in open air, tended to always look more dark green to black in water to me. But hell, I am terrible at colors. Which is why my career in printing was doomed from the start.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmmm. I'm showing $13.99 for the triple kit that goes as wide as 3/4". The bigger ones, with one going as wide as 1-3/8", is on sale for $19.99 (I didn't factor any applicable coupons btw, just site pricing).
> 
> I'm heading there tomorrow and I'll see what the local pricing has. I'm finding out the casters I want are not in the CL bolt pattern, so I may just do some steal adapter plates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will need a fresh set of these bits to make this project feasible.
> 
> edit:
> 
> Thinking of getting one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> Might be cheaper then buying a new drill press. I wanna make sure the holes are done right (meds and age are catching up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Old press died a few years back and I don't wanna drop $100-200 on a new one if my cordless or corded hammer can do the job. Those $50 craftsmen on craig's sell quick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The only way you see "rust" is if there is steel in your loop. That said, if it is coming from your CPU block, it's possible that you only need replace the focusing plate if your Swiftech block comes with one. I've never had a Swiftech block so I'm unsure whether it has one or not. But my EK block does and that's where I imagine rust would be coming from if their was an issue with it.
> 
> So take a deep breath, drain your loop and take a peek at the edges of that plate if there is one in your block. Cause I can say with certainty that it's not copper unless there are little copper particles floating around in your system coming from the CPU block. If it were copper rust(the correct term is Patina) it would be greenish in tint, not orange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: My bad, I realized that you were referring to the chipset block. I am relatively sure that ASUS didn't run steel piping. Aluminum or Copper. And while Aluminum rusts I don't think that it's that but icbw since that's a *really* old board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The discoloration is more likely from heat. A less expensive tubing will turn a rust looking color under constant heat. If that is the Thermal take tubing, it wouldn't surprise me. I had some cheaper clear tubing the was connected to a X58 classified mosfet water block , and it was a little worse that. If You pull the tubing off, it will likely be colored internally( in the plastic) rust colored.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A few things......

Everybody needs step drills in their lives.

Buy a pillar drill, cheap and just better.

Everybody needs a decent metal countersink.

That staining is probably a bioorganic.

Always check that when you move things in solidworks, that you move the bloody screw holes too instead of wasting 2 hours watching it cut a part that you know is wrong....

The last one may or may not apply to you.....


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A few things......
> 
> Everybody needs step drills in their lives.
> 
> Buy a pillar drill, cheap and just better.
> 
> Everybody needs a decent metal countersink.
> 
> That staining is probably a bioorganic.
> 
> Always check that when you move things in solidworks, that you move the bloody screw holes too instead of wasting 2 hours watching it cut a part that you know is wrong....
> 
> The last one may or may not apply to you.....


Unlucky B, Also I agree with the first 3 points, I need to get me some modding tools! Want to build a custom case soon.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Luck had nothing to do with it,I didn't check everything before saving, the most bone noob mistake ever........

Buying a cheap pillar drill= profit and using WD40 on Alu for cutting works great,I use it when machining Alu all the time. Paraffin is just as good if you have it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Luck had nothing to do with it,I didn't check everything before saving, the most bone noob mistake ever........
> 
> Buying a cheap pillar drill= profit and using WD40 on Alu for cutting works great,I use it when machining Alu all the time. Paraffin is just as good if you have it.


Well you know what I mean lol, Pillar drill will be bought soon for sure, I have an idea for a case but I'm not 100% sure yet, still on the pencil stage (well mental pencil stage, not put pencil to paper...)


----------



## Laithan

Thanks all for the help so far.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There are three loops in that picture????


No just two.. the discoloration actually started to spread BOTH to the left and to the right of the chipset block despite the flow being unidirectional so I know it is definitely coming from there...Maybe ASUS didn't know how to make a block or it is just too old... or maybe what DRKreiger said below..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> The discoloration is more likely from heat. A less expensive tubing will turn a rust looking color under constant heat. If that is the Thermal take tubing, it wouldn't surprise me. I had some cheaper clear tubing the was connected to a X58 classified mosfet water block , and it was a little worse that. If You pull the tubing off, it will likely be colored internally( in the plastic) rust colored.


The chipset on this board is being pushed hard.. it is around 65C.. . I could have bought cheap tubing..I don't remember the brand. My new stuff is primochill.. Hopefully they are ok and I'm not using that chipset block anymore!

R.I.P. Rusty









The "rust color" is definitely inside the tubing as you said. They are all stained now.. It is much worse now than it was in that pic but I used it because I figured it would be good enough. It got worse fast!



I have a lot of things to connect to I figured the smaller tubing would make it easier. I hope I didn't make a bad choice...

New upgrade


Any recommendations as to what I can use to clean it all?


----------



## mouacyk

Oh wow, finally moving off of LGA775. With that X79 you have the option to go 8-core when the 1680 v2's drop in price.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Oh wow, finally moving off of LGA775. With that X79 you have the option to go 8-core when the 1680 v2's drop in price.


Well I'll keep the board and maybe use it as a server but this "rust" whatever it is crap must go! It was a good excuse and I couldn't resist that RIVBE









I've got a search set up for the 1680v2







. It's confirmed unlocked as well as the 1650v2 and 1660v2 so this should be a fun experiment to see what I get get out if it. My current X5470 amazed me so we'll see


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Thanks all for the help so far.
> No just two.. the discoloration actually started to spread BOTH to the left and to the right of the chipset block despite the flow being unidirectional so I know it is definitely coming from there...Maybe ASUS didn't know how to make a block or it is just too old... or maybe what DRKreiger said below..
> The chipset on this board is being pushed hard.. it is around 65C.. . I could have bought cheap tubing..I don't remember the brand. My new stuff is primochill.. Hopefully they are ok and I'm not using that chipset block anymore!
> 
> R.I.P. Rusty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "rust color" is definitely inside the tubing as you said. They are all stained now.. It is much worse now than it was in that pic but I used it because I figured it would be good enough. It got worse fast!
> 
> I have a lot of things to connect to I figured the smaller tubing would make it easier. I hope I didn't make a bad choice...
> 
> New upgrade
> 
> 
> Any recommendations as to what I can use to clean it all?


It can get tricky w/ a bunch of blocks but this is how i did my RIVE:


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you are dead set on trying to straighten that port, get some 1/4" threaded bar and use that. Screw it into the port and lift the port, try to not lever on the port.
> You could do the same thing with an old fitting and a vice.
> 
> Watch the port brazing tho.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> yeah will try a few things for recommended by other folks here, will leave the forceful bending in shape for last resort...


Yeah I'd listen to B Neg, that method will work


----------



## wermad

This video is old, but pretty decent and some ppl might actually pick up a thing or two:






I saw some gorgeous old skool stuff. Lol, this happens when owl'ing Iron Maiden Ed Force One 747 landing videos on youtube







.

edit: and yes, at first, the pliers freaked me out too before even watching it. But for what he used it for (tighten clicky clamps), and he probably needed something quick to demonstrate, its perfectly justifiable for this video imho. Just don't use it to screw down the actual fitting to the g1/4 port/threads.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> Yeah I'd listen to B Neg, that method will work


If you have a watchmakers touch,you could use a lightweight slide hammer instead.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This video is old, but pretty decent and some ppl might actually pick up a thing or two:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw some gorgeous old skool stuff. Lol, this happens when owl'ing Iron Maiden Ed Force One 747 landing videos on youtube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> edit: and yes, at first, the pliers freaked me out too before even watching it. But for what he used it for (tighten clicky clamps), and he probably needed something quick to demonstrate, its perfectly justifiable for this video imho. Just don't use it to screw down the actual fitting to the g1/4 port/threads.


I defy anyone to close those ratchet clamps _without_ pliers.....


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It can get tricky w/ a bunch of blocks but this is how i did my RIVE:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


O boy, what fun I'm going to have when I do mine. Going to be even nuts for me since it going to have hardline and three different GPUs in a smaller case that not meant for EATX.







Need to get my lazy butt and take the dremel to the case this weekend.

Anyway, think I am going to stop by HF today. Get that mini hack saw and some step bits if they still have them on sell.

Need to take pics of all the water cool goodies I got my hands on this past few months. I have hoarded up quite a collection.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> How is that xflow? I'm about to pick up a new one because my ancient stealth x flow has too many fins for my sp120 quiets.


Truth be told no idea. Still don't have a pump so it is just work in progress. But will report back when I get the loop up and running as I'm using quiet edition fans as well.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It can get tricky w/ a bunch of blocks but this is how i did my RIVE:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pix


_Very nice!_ Thanks for sharing!









Gives me some ideas







You got creative I like it.

PS. Today is loop cleaning day. Still hoping for some "magic advice" to be able to clean this "rust" looking stuff outa me blox!

EDIT: I just took some pics of *how bad* this thing looks.











Spoiler: pix



It used to look like this:







When I actually used the search "Fusion block rusting" I found others...







Someone said: "*The fusion block is made out of aluminium with a cheap cooper bath paint*" and "*What you're seeing most likely is copper oxide. Most people think it's blue/green but it's actually brown*." not sure if you guys agree or not.

Also an old post from ~Ceadder (thanks for answering my question a year before I asked it LMAO!)
http://www.overclock.net/t/1566848/please-help-rust/20#post_24236480

*I think* I just have one question now, should I add the vinegar to my existing loop and let it circulate for a little while and THEN drain before I take everything apart and clean? Is that a good idea?


----------



## Ceadderman

^ *"The fusion block is made out of aluminium with a cheap cooper bath paint" and "What you're seeing most likely is copper oxide. Most people think it's blue/green but it's actually brown."*

I can agree with this statement. Other than the anodizing process which is what is coating that cheap as spit chipset block. This of course(era of the board) was prior to our knowledge of aluminum issues in water cooling loops.









Yvw on the post from nearly a year ago. Mayhem's blitz should clean up your other components w/o much fuss. Step one as I said back then is strictly for radiator only. "iirc"









~Ceadder


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

My RIG "White Menace"
CPU: i7 4790k @4.6ghz
MOBO: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI FORMULA
RAM: KINGSTON HYPER X BEAST 16GB 2400mhz @2000mhz
GPU: ASUS STRIX GTX 970
PSU: CORSAIR AX860
SSD: KINGSTON HYPERX FURY 120GB
HDD: 3x 4TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA
WATERCOOLING: EK BAY RES D5 PUMP COMBO, EK FITTINGS, EK CPU BLOCK, EK RADIATORS, EK COOLANT, EK TUBING!
AIRCOOLING: 3x CORSAIR SP 120 CUSTOM PAINTED WHITE + 2 x PHANTEKS AF140


----------



## Ceadderman

Very nice looking build. It's danged clean. What country are you in?









~Ceadder


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

thanks a lot my friend! i am from greece!


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very nice looking build. It's danged clean. What country are you in?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks a lot my friend! i am from greece!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

While the missis is out doing woman stuff......


----------



## Laithan

OK.... so my creative thinking is in overdrive I guess









I was boiling some distilled water to help flush out the crap in my loop... Just came back from the store and got some new white distilled vinegar... I'm ready to go! ..Then it occurred to me that my Kuerig coffee maker gets the water pretty hot...







This might be a good way to get a fresh hot dose of distilled water each time I need it...(so I don't have to keep boiling it every 10 mins). The machine goes up to *89C/192F*...this is less than boiling but close (boiling is 100C/212F).

*THEN* (_here is where I either make a complete fool of myself or I've found a brilliant idea!_) I said to myself... wait a minute, if these machines use a "de-scaling solution" I wonder if that might be something that could also be used to clean a loop.. And here is what I found out about this stuff...It actually sounds intriguing at the least.


Spoiler: Descale





*Keurig Descaling Solution Ingredients*

Here is a breakdown of the ingredients Keurig uses to make their descaling solution.

>50% Citric Acid
That means that more than half the solution is made up of citric acid. It's a great cleaning agent that comes from nature, so you can feel comfortable using this cleaning your Keurig.

<3% Silicic Acid.
Less than 3% of the solution is silicic acid. Silicic acid is "a weakly acidic colloidal hydrated form of silica made by acidifying solutions of alkali metal silicates." This is a stabilizing agent.

<5% Phosphates and Bleaching Agents.
Phosphates are salts containing phosphorus and other compounds. Phosphorus is a naturally occurring compound. These are cleaning agents included in the descaling solution.

Water.
The rest of the solution is good ol' H2O.

_All of these ingredients are designed to work together to get the scale out of your machine, without being too harsh on the machine itself.Every ingredient is water-soluble, allowing the machine to rinse the solution safely out of the machine, along with the calcified gunk clogging your machine.

The purpose of this descaling solution is to clean the indoor plumbing lines of your machine by eradicating the built up mineral deposits in your machine. Once you have a bottle of this in your hand, you will want to use it immediately._

There is a *water pump* inside the Kuerig...there is plastic...there is rubber... there is metal (not sure what kind) and all this stuff will supposedly rinse out...


----------



## jodybdesigns

So the misses said I need to freshen up the place. Since I had to go panel..less on my Phantom 410 to accommodate my push/pull setup. I decided to do just that. I thought "Since it is now so ugly, but has more function over form, why not add moar function?"

So I did. Here you go wifey. All fresh now


----------



## inedenimadam

My god, I almost don't want to post this in here, but I am proud of it, even if my pics have to follow B Neg.

My kids homeschool project from last year got an update, and my eldest son dipped his toes into watercooling for the first time.





We need to buy a few parts (micro res, fill port, fan splitter) before we go any further, this is just cobbled together parts left over from other builds


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I like it,the screen is working yes?


----------



## fast_fate

This pile of crud came out of a 360 rad after hot water flush.
The shake-a-rad dance is still the best method for removing crud - even after a rinse.

And this is from a reputable manufacturer which claims ultrasonic cleaning after manufacturing process








Think they never to change the frequency


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> This pile of crud came out of a 360 rad after hot water flush.
> The shake-a-rad dance is still the best method for removing crud - even after a rinse.
> 
> And this is from a reputable manufacturer which claims ultrasonic cleaning after manufacturing process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think they never to change the frequency


Might I ask which company? I have a few EK radiators, which I put some hot water in and shook like crazy and I didn't get nearly anything out of them.

They are the PE240 models.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Might I ask which company? I have a few EK radiators, which I put some hot water in and shook like crazy and I didn't get nearly anything out of them.
> 
> They are the PE240 models.


It was NOT an EK radiator


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> This pile of crud came out of a 360 rad after hot water flush.
> The shake-a-rad dance is still the best method for removing crud - even after a rinse.
> 
> And this is from a reputable manufacturer which claims ultrasonic cleaning after manufacturing process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think they never to change the frequency










gulp!


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I like it,the screen is working yes?


Yes, I debezzeled a $10 used monitor for it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> This pile of crud came out of a 360 rad after hot water flush.
> The shake-a-rad dance is still the best method for removing crud - even after a rinse.
> 
> *And this is from a reputable manufacturer which claims ultrasonic cleaning after manufacturing process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think they need to change the frequency*


Yikees that's a lot of junk.









Pretty sure I know which one so I won't even ask.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Laithan

I figured I would do a little test... what the heck right? I don't know maybe I am nuts..I'm OK with that







but this *actually* seems to work *really good*









LEFT = 50/50 Hot distilled water / *Distilled white vinegar*
RIGHT = 50/50 Hot distilled water / *Descaler*

I dropped them in, stirred around and set the timer for 15 minutes...and then another 15 for a total of 30 minutes soaking with an occasional stir.


Spoiler: The descaling experiment





Just dropped them in 0 minutes


After 15 minutes soaking


After 30 minutes soaking


Both rinsed off


And this is just soaking.. I think if it was being pumped through everything it would work even better.


The vinegar doesn't seem to help much with this problem however when I dumped the water it did have a slight brownish tint... The descaler is kicking butt and taking names...

I think I might go for cleaning my stuff with the descaler...flush again with vinegar after perhaps... in the name of science or something..









Might help others in a tough spot like I'm in who knows..What do you think guys?


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I figured I would do a little test... what the heck right? I don't know maybe I am nuts..I'm OK with that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but this *actually* seems to work *really good*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> LEFT = 50/50 Hot distilled water / *Distilled white vinegar*
> RIGHT = 50/50 Hot distilled water / *Descaler*
> 
> I dropped them in, stirred around and set the timer for 15 minutes...and then another 15 for a total of 30 minutes soaking with an occasional stir.
> 
> 
> 
> Just dropped them in 0 minutes
> 
> 
> After 15 minutes soaking
> 
> 
> After 30 minutes soaking
> 
> 
> Both rinsed off
> 
> 
> And this is just soaking.. I think if it was being pumped through everything it would work even better.
> 
> 
> The vinegar doesn't seem to help much with this problem however when I dumped the water it did have a slight brownish tint... The descaler is kicking butt and taking names...
> 
> I think I might go for cleaning my stuff with the descaler...flush again with vinegar after perhaps... in the name of science or something..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might help others in a tough spot like I'm in who knows..What do you think guys?


That's interesting. I started digging a bit too and found this about the different descaler acids and how they impact materials. (in the context of coffee makers. Thanks for doing that test and documenting it!

(emphasis below was added by me)


Spoiler: Article



For example, people generally clean coffee makers by brewing a nice fresh pot of vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid, which is a fairly weak organic acid. Nevertheless, sometimes acetic acid is enough.

In other cases, you may want to purchase a commercial iron/coffee maker descaling product. Normally, this type of product comes in liquid or crystalline form. The key ingredient is usually *sulfamic acid*, an organic acid that is used for all kinds of interesting things. Sulfamic acid is an excellent descaling agent, and *it is much safer for various types of metals.* When strong enough, it will even remove rust (try it!).

Sulfamic acid is, in fact, my acid of choice for most applications. When it comes to sulfamic acid, the crystalline white powder kind that comes in a packet is the best. The simple reason for this is that what you are getting is basically sulfamic acid and nothing else. You dissolve the crystals in water, and voila! You have a glorious descaling solution. There are also liquid descalers that contain sulfamic acid, but alas, they also contain other cleaning agents and stabilizers in order to keep the sulfamic acid in a liquidy state. Go for the crystalline stuff!

Now, sometimes, you have an appliance like a water distiller. Water distillers are fabulous contraptions for generating super-pure drinking water. Contrary to popular belief, drinking distilled water is NOT bad for you. I should know: I've been drinking nothing but distilled water for two years now, and I feel great! I am in perfect health. The reasons for why distilled water is actually good for you are beyond the scope of this post, but you can find a bunch of info on the subject by doing a simple web search.

In any case, water distillers for the home usually work by heating water with an electric element inside a sealed metal container. The water boils, the steam rises into a spiraling tube, a fan cools the tube, the pure water condenses, and it trickles down into the water reservoir. As you can imagine, what is left in the boiling chamber is a whole lot of nasty, crusty, rock-hard mineral deposits jam-packed with whatever other evil crapola is in your tap water. Cleaning those deposits is not easy, since it is literally rock hard.

This is where sulfamic acid comes in. It has to be VERY highly concentrated. In other words, dump in lots of packets of the white crystals! It works great, and it's far more friendly for the metal boiling chamber and associated components.

However, sometimes, the mineral deposits are just too hard, or you don't have hours to wait for the descaling process. In that case, go out and get yourself some hydrochloric acid, commonly known as muriatic acid. It's the same stuff your belly uses to help digest food.

*Hydrochloric acid* is seriously evil stuff (except when it's in your belly). You'll see this for yourself when you catch a whiff of the noxious odors coming out of your calcified appliance when you pour in the diluted acid. *Hydrochloric acid will eagerly eat through things like certain rubber seals, so be careful.* It also has a bad habit of *eating away at certain metals,* so it must be used with caution. You don't want to just willy nilly dump it full strength into some flimsy plastic reservoir and *watch as your plastic container slowly dissolves.* On the plus side, this is one acid that does not mess around with even the hardest mineral deposits.

Whatever acid you use, you will probably have to drain the acid, flush with water, and possibly use a metal utensil to poke and prod at any remaining deposits. They should just fall right off your appliance at that point. Flush with more water, and then place the gizmo back in service.

Of course, you can also use a container with acid in it to clean off calcified components, pipes or fittings, etc.

*Stick with sulfamic acid if you can, since it's the most friendly* - in more ways than one. But whatever acid you use, be careful!!!


----------



## FXformat

Hung my PC on the wall, not too many setups like this...still working on the PC's sleeving, and the desk needs to be touched up..







And the $270 Gaming Keyboard







I can watch youtube or browse facebook/twitter while i game, on that 4" screen/trackpad
Useful when the mouse suddenly craps out and i need to navigate bios.


----------



## Kimir

what keyboard is that?


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what keyboard is that?


Looks like the Razer Deathstalker Ultimate.

Very nice setup - very clean. I dig it.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what keyboard is that?


Razer Deathstalker Ultimate Elite


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hmmm. I'm showing $13.99 for the triple kit that goes as wide as 3/4". The bigger ones, with one going as wide as 1-3/8", is on sale for $19.99 (I didn't factor any applicable coupons btw, just site pricing).
> 
> I'm heading there tomorrow and I'll see what the local pricing has. I'm finding out the casters I want are not in the CL bolt pattern, so I may just do some steal adapter plates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will need a fresh set of these bits to make this project feasible.
> 
> edit:
> 
> Thinking of getting one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> Might be cheaper then buying a new drill press. I wanna make sure the holes are done right (meds and age are catching up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Old press died a few years back and I don't wanna drop $100-200 on a new one if my cordless or corded hammer can do the job. Those $50 craftsmen on craig's sell quick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Where can I get this


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Razer Deathstalker Ultimate Elite


Sweet looking keyboard, nice and clean setup as well!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Sweet looking keyboard, nice and clean setup as well!


Although, for $/€270, its one of the worst value keyboards ever made. Its basically a glorified laptop keyboard/trackpad with a cheapo display and some macro keys.

That kind of money could get you a pretty sweet mechanical keyboard and another monitor.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Although, for $/€270, its one of the worst value keyboards ever made. Its basically a glorified laptop keyboard/trackpad with a cheapo display and some macro keys.
> 
> That kind of money could get you a pretty sweet mechanical keyboard and another monitor.


LOL pretty much...i bought it because of the looks, and the keys are very comfortable to type and do work in. It's chump change compared to what i've spent on my set up though...that hanging case is $400!, almost the same price as a CaseLabs SMA8


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> LOL pretty much...i bought it because of the looks, and the keys are very comfortable to type and do work in. It's chump change compared to what i've spent on my set up though...that hanging case is $400!, almost the same price as a CaseLabs SMA8


Its a really nice set-up though.









And those Lian Lia PC-OX cases are so pretty, they're worth the asking price imo.


----------



## Kimir

To each their own.








I have paid 250€ for my ducky yoth, it's kinda overpriced compared to the non rgb/limited edition that cost 80€ less.
Hmm last time I check, an SMA8 cost more like $600 than $400.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Loving my new job, and was assigned my favorite section that needed a lot of care, progress so far (still need to organize the fittings and a few other things)



So far I'm the first person they've hired that was knowledgeable in the custom side of Watercooling, let alone cared enough to take the time to organize it (at least start)


----------



## Ceadderman

Am so Jelly right now DB.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jokesterwild

wow I wish I lived near a shop that had stock like that and actually could visit and pick up parts! then again might wife might divorce me....


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> wow I wish I lived near a shop that had stock like that and actually could visit and pick up parts! then again might wife might divorce me....


No kidding right now If I want anything on the spot and I am lucky enough, I would have to drive close to 3 hours to the closest Micro Center... :/
But will be moving close to one in the summer so at least I got that going for me.


----------



## kgtuning

@DarthBaggins

Which MC?


----------



## wiretap

My Microcenter in MI needs some organizing in the watercooling area.. took me like 10 mins to find a waterblock on a single shelf because they were all mixed up, and some of them in the wrong boxes.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> My Microcenter in MI needs some organizing in the watercooling area.. took me like 10 mins to find a waterblock on a single shelf because they were all mixed up, and some of them in the wrong boxes.


detroit mc is crap compared to the first store, columbus. even cinci was better. ill never go back to the det store.


----------



## wermad

You want suck, go to Frys in SD. The pc components department got shoved to a far remote corner that used to be mostly the warehouse. They opened up a huge section for (cr)Apple and so the android and windows tablets got shoved bavk, which then they shoved the desktop/laptop/monitor section further back. What little space was left they put chairs, desks, and shredders. The new pc components department is a bit better and spacier, but its so shoved back and looks so uninviting that it makes you think its the ugly red-headed child. Lastly, their stock is more mediocre and not comparable to MC imho. And their price-match has gone down the toilet.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Here you go!


doesnt count for much seeing that you cant see the pump. you have no idea if the pump is fed by a rad or 2nd res. that build doesnt much count for squat anyway. its a showpiece. they turn them on with no monitor. when the shows over, they get turned off. probably pulled apart for parts and never thought of again. i would like someone to find something to prove me wrong.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> My Microcenter in MI needs some organizing in the watercooling area.. took me like 10 mins to find a waterblock on a single shelf because they were all mixed up, and *some of them in the wrong boxes.*


Having worked in the auto parts industry, this is an indication of swap theft. Get cheap brand part remove contents and swap them into high dollar box and replace the high dollar part into the low buck box and pay for that instead.









~Ceadder


----------



## Iceman2733

Ok i hate you guys close to anywhere with computer parts. There is NO computer parts store, other than a craptastic Bestbuy which doesn't stock anything accessories wise and just a few odds and ends and keyboards and mice. I wish I had a microcenter close to me now.... I am going to go and cry lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> doesnt count for much seeing that you cant see the pump. you have no idea if the pump is fed by a rad or 2nd res. that build doesnt much count for squat anyway. its a showpiece. they turn them on with no monitor. when the shows over, they get turned off. probably pulled apart for parts and never thought of again. i would like someone to find something to prove me wrong.


Carpet Queens...they can exists in pc-land....


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> @DarthBaggins
> 
> Which MC?


Duluth, GA location.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> My Microcenter in MI needs some organizing in the watercooling area.. took me like 10 mins to find a waterblock on a single shelf because they were all mixed up, and some of them in the wrong boxes.


Yeah that was most of the issue in this case, I redid all the tubing (categorized by diameter), redid the blocks from Acetal copper/ Acrylic Copper/ Acetal Nickle/ Acrylic Nickle then pumps are all together, res's and so forth. Not looking forward to digging into the fittings basket, as it needs to be redone completely since previous staff have just thrown fittings/adapters/etc into one large basket. So it makes it extremely difficult to find the one fitting you need (helped a customer find a 45° EK adapter.

I do plan on stocking up on EK 140/Revo D5's, since there are 3 in the open-box/clearance bin at the moment along with a couple Titan X blocks and Back plates


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Can I ask what ribbon you used for the GPU riser? Was it the Lian Li? Is it really noticeable? You know if it's a z170 board you can run it from the bottom PCIE slot and assign pcie 3.0 16x to that particular slot. Love the set up, just contemplating what you have when I saw a new thermaltake case with a real glass front plate on it that is wall mountable. I have a hospital bed and need to be able to turn it on and off but I'm sure someone makes a remote or I could always make and extension to the power on and run it into my keyboard somehow. Only 139 bucks. But I just bought a white phanteks luxe. No way to mount it and still service it. I'm disabled so getting it up and down off the wall would require someone else to do it. Your rig looks good though. Any support to the card other than the ribbon and slot screws? I know my card weighs a ton and will weigh more if ek ever gets off their behinds and makes a full cover block.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> doesnt count for much seeing that you cant see the pump. you have no idea if the pump is fed by a rad or 2nd res. that build doesnt much count for squat anyway. its a showpiece. they turn them on with no monitor. when the shows over, they get turned off. probably pulled apart for parts and never thought of again. i would like someone to find something to prove me wrong.


I did, but you won't take it as you love being right. The pump is at the bottom of the spiral fed by the top mounted rad. You can see the pump clear as day. Also the PC is on...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Can I ask what ribbon you used for the GPU riser? Was it the Lian Li? Is it really noticeable? You know if it's a z170 board you can run it from the bottom PCIE slot and assign pcie 3.0 16x to that particular slot. Love the set up, just contemplating what you have when I saw a new thermaltake case with a real glass front plate on it that is wall mountable. I have a hospital bed and need to be able to turn it on and off but I'm sure someone makes a remote or I could always make and extension to the power on and run it into my keyboard somehow. Only 139 bucks. But I just bought a white phanteks luxe. No way to mount it and still service it. I'm disabled so getting it up and down off the wall would require someone else to do it. Your rig looks good though. Any support to the card other than the ribbon and slot screws? I know my card weighs a ton and will weigh more if ek ever gets off their behinds and makes a full cover block.


Also for media purposes you could use this (came highly recommended for my HTPC/Folding rig, still need to order one too): https://flirc.tv/


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> doesnt count for much seeing that you cant see the pump. you have no idea if the pump is fed by a rad or 2nd res. that build doesnt much count for squat anyway. its a showpiece. they turn them on with no monitor. when the shows over, they get turned off. probably pulled apart for parts and never thought of again. i would like someone to find something to prove me wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did, but you won't take it as you love being right. The pump is at the bottom of the spiral fed by the top mounted rad. You can see the pump clear as day. Also the PC is on...
Click to expand...

Most important is pump is feed with water. I can not watch the video fully because connection problem but I did saw the loop already have fluid in it right? Doesn't matter anyway because the build is just for show. You can do exactly the same in your build if you want but always make sure the pump already underwater before turning on the pump which likely what the guy who build the loop in the video did. It is much easier if you have res right before or above the pump which is why you always see/get this advice anywhere.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Most important is pump is feed with water. I can not watch the video fully because connection problem but I did saw the loop already have fluid in it right? Doesn't matter anyway because the build is just for show. You can do exactly the same in your build if you want but always make sure the pump already underwater before turning on the pump which likely what the guy who build the loop in the video did. It is much easier if you have res right before or above the pump which is why you always see/get this advice anywhere.


I agree, but that's not the issue here. The system was running as you can see the fluid running in the res that's at the back of the case. PC said he didn't believe me and asked for proof, I gave him proof in the form of a video and he's still saying it's not good enough. The loop is running and I can't see a reason why it couldn't be done on a normal non show rig, pump gets fed by coolant any which way you look at it. The pump doesn't know any different it isn't sentient and doesn't have a preference.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Most important is pump is feed with water. I can not watch the video fully because connection problem but I did saw the loop already have fluid in it right? Doesn't matter anyway because the build is just for show. You can do exactly the same in your build if you want but always make sure the pump already underwater before turning on the pump which likely what the guy who build the loop in the video did. It is much easier if you have res right before or above the pump which is why you always see/get this advice anywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree, but that's not the issue here. The system was running as you can see the fluid running in the res that's at the back of the case. PC said he didn't believe me and asked for proof, I gave him proof in the form of a video and he's still saying it's not good enough. The loop is running and I can't see a reason why it couldn't be done on a normal non show rig, pump gets fed by coolant any which way you look at it. The pump doesn't know any different it isn't sentient and doesn't have a preference.
Click to expand...

PC gave that advice because it's important for the pump to be underwater before turning on the pump. Running the pump dry even for a moment can damage the pump which either the pump may failed right away or shorten the pump life. Like I said before, you can do exactly like that in the video but when initially filling the loop, you want the pump underwater first. The video only show the loop already running which means the pump always feed with water, it did not show how the guy filling the loop. Either way it doesn't matter anyway because the fact is the pump must always already underwater before turning on the pump or you can damage the pump. The loop is ok but not practical. The build is for show anyway.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> PC gave that advice because it's important for the pump to be underwater before turning on the pump. Running the pump dry even for a moment can damage the pump which either the pump may failed right away or shorten the pump life. Like I said before, you can do exactly like that in the video but when initially filling the loop, you want the pump underwater first. The video only show the loop already running which means the pump always feed with water, it did not show how the guy filling the loop. Either way it doesn't matter anyway because the fact is the pump must always already underwater before turning on the pump or you can damage the pump. The loop is ok but not practical. The build is for show anyway.


It's really not difficult to fill up a loop and rotate the case to move the air as you go, done it before to reduce the time to fill my loop by filling my front rad with coolant and my res. It's not practical but that's not the issue.

I said, you can put a pump elsewhere, PC said liar, show proof, I provided he still calls BS. The evidence is right there, practicality etc is irrelevant. The pump knows no difference if there is fluid there for it to pump around. I could care less if it's a show PC it still illustrates what I said. I understand this is difficult for you but still.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> PC gave that advice because it's important for the pump to be underwater before turning on the pump. Running the pump dry even for a moment can damage the pump which either the pump may failed right away or shorten the pump life. Like I said before, you can do exactly like that in the video but when initially filling the loop, you want the pump underwater first. The video only show the loop already running which means the pump always feed with water, it did not show how the guy filling the loop. Either way it doesn't matter anyway because the fact is the pump must always already underwater before turning on the pump or you can damage the pump. The loop is ok but not practical. The build is for show anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> It's really not difficult to fill up a loop and rotate the case to move the air as you go, done it before to reduce the time to fill my loop by filling my front rad with coolant and my res. It's not practical but that's not the issue.
> 
> I said, you can put a pump elsewhere, PC said liar, show proof, I provided he still calls BS. The evidence is right there, practicality etc is irrelevant. The pump knows no difference if there is fluid there for it to pump around. I could care less if it's a show PC it still illustrates what I said. I understand this is difficult for you but still.
Click to expand...

PC gave that advice to someone that in the process building his loop. Res before pump is sound advice. I'm pretty sure you misunderstand him. He did explained the pump can be feed by rad or something else, not necessarily res but res make thing much easier for filling & bleeding the loop.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> PC gave that advice to someone that in the process building his loop. Res before pump is sound advice. I'm pretty sure you misunderstand him. He did explained the pump can be feed by rad or something else, not necessarily res but res make thing much easier for filling & bleeding the loop.


Again, for the 3rd time, I'm not disputing that...

I said I'd seen something different, I proved it, he still calls BS. Why are you struggling to grasp this?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Loving my new job, and was assigned my favorite section that needed a lot of care, progress so far (still need to organize the fittings and a few other things)
> 
> 
> 
> So far I'm the first person they've hired that was knowledgeable in the custom side of Watercooling, let alone cared enough to take the time to organize it (at least start)


I used to work at the MC in St Louis Park, MN (Twin Cities). I was the water cooling guy there too. We had crap selection. I spent so much time emailing the head office to get them to buy stuff. They did not start till a year or so after I left to work the oil patch.







Oh well. At least they have a bit more now so I don't have to always order online.


----------



## Trestles126

I have a question I have a aquacomputer filter and it says it takes a g 1/8th not g1/4 plug which you can add a led to. I have not been able to find a acrylic led plug in that size to light it up. Any links to the part or if it even exists


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have a question I have a aquacomputer filter and it says it takes a g 1/8th not g1/4 plug which you can add a led to. I have not been able to find a acrylic led plug in that size to light it up. Any links to the part or if it even exists


I haven't seen a G1/8" dedicated LED fitting, but you could easily use any G1/8 barb or vacuum fitting and simply install an LED. G1/8 is pretty tiny, so you should get a nice, snug fit.


----------



## gekkotype

my H440 Case running with EKWB Parts


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Loving my new job, and was assigned my favorite section that needed a lot of care, progress so far (still need to organize the fittings and a few other things)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far I'm the first person they've hired that was knowledgeable in the custom side of Watercooling, let alone cared enough to take the time to organize it (at least start)


Lucky, I kill to have one of those stores near by. Only thing near here is Best Buy, and that still 35-40mins away.

O well, I be down in Tampa, FL later this year for a short bit. Saving up money since there are computer part stores down there.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Ok i hate you guys close to anywhere with computer parts. There is NO computer parts store, other than a craptastic Bestbuy which doesn't stock anything accessories wise and just a few odds and ends and keyboards and mice. I wish I had a microcenter close to me now.... I am going to go and cry lol


You not alone. I'm out in the darn boonies of Alabama country side. I am screwed on stores and internet.







I'm not joking about boonies. Got cows and chicken houses behind us and only 4 neighbors in eye view.

For the giggles:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Man, I've been in that store soooo many times. Bout time somebody fixed it up. Do you get to order, would love to see a new section filled with Monsoon fittings and their new modular res system is very nice. Lover the store though and it's about time they took watercooling more seriously.

I have TWO micro centers within a 45 min drive from me but the Duluth Ga store is full of unorganized junk. Looks like it's Riverside Drive from now on. Darthbaggins, you should do a quick cell phone vid of your section so we can see what they might have mispriced... hehehe. I know they have some monsoon fittings multipacks for 17 bucks I've found. I re-read you post, you're in Duluth, I can vouch that you have done a good job, that place has been a pile of junk.


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> My Microcenter in MI needs some organizing in the watercooling area.. took me like 10 mins to find a waterblock on a single shelf because they were all mixed up, and some of them in the wrong boxes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> detroit mc is crap compared to the first store, columbus. even cinci was better. ill never go back to the det store.


+1 on how bad the Detroit (Madison Heights) Microcenter watercooling section is (especially the fittings).


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have a question I have a aquacomputer filter and it says it takes a g 1/8th not g1/4 plug which you can add a led to. I have not been able to find a acrylic led plug in that size to light it up. Any links to the part or if it even exists


I'm trying to remember where I got mine. The only ones I could find online was these AQUA COMPUTER PLEXI 1/8 LED MODULE. Those are not what I'm using. I'll look back through my orders and see if I can find it.



FOUND IT
Alphacool Plexi lighting module G1/8

or

Alphacool Plexi Lighting Module G1/8


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I did, but you won't take it as you love being right.


youre pulling assumptions out of your bum. you posted a video of a showpiece not an actual working computer. everyone loves to be right, including you. that is the only reason you posted a pc from an expo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> The pump is at the bottom of the spiral fed by the top mounted rad. You can see the pump clear as day. Also the PC is on...


yep, i see the pump now that i blew it up full screen. kind of hard to separate crap from poop in the dark.
i never said the pc isnt on. unbunch your panties.

*EDIT* btw, just stop benji. go back and read my posts and stop trying to interpret them or make assumptions. it makes you look less intelligent than you might be. actually read my posts. i am very literal.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Added a fill port and mounted stuff....


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> I used to work at the MC in St Louis Park, MN (Twin Cities). I was the water cooling guy there too. We had crap selection. I spent so much time emailing the head office to get them to buy stuff. They did not start till a year or so after I left to work the oil patch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well. At least they have a bit more now so I don't have to always order online.


Yeah it is nice to be able to shop locally for some parts, but sometimes PPC's has a better deal or selection (especially with the OCN coupon code). So far liking this job compared to working as an automotive tech (not as strenuous on my back and health)


----------



## gdubc

I think all microcenters probably look like a tornado came through that watercooling aisle. My local store should be paying me a wage, my ocd makes me organize stuff every time I go in there, lol.


----------



## FXformat

I have 3 Micro Centers within 50 miles radius of me...









All their watercooling isle looks like crap, all the fittings are opened and people throw them around, sometimes i find a 90 elbow with a compression fitting on it, and back in the bag.


----------



## BrjSan

Hey guys,,

just quick question. which acrylic hard tube goes with *EK-HDC Fitting 12mm* since it is really confusing the inches and mm sizes, do not want to go with EK tubes since i need longer run than the 500mm in length by EK.

Primochill and monsoon are of 1/2 inches which is about 12.7 mm, which means i can not use them right, so what to get?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah it is nice to be able to shop locally for some parts, but sometimes PPC's has a better deal or selection (especially with the OCN coupon code). So far liking this job compared to working as an automotive tech (not as strenuous on my back and health)


Just wait till you start to hate everyone because you are sick of dealing with stupid people. It happens to everyone. Lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Hey guys,,
> 
> just quick question. which acrylic hard tube goes with *EK-HDC Fitting 12mm* since it is really confusing the inches and mm sizes, do not want to go with EK tubes since i need longer run than the 500mm in length by EK.
> 
> Primochill and monsoon are of 1/2 inches which is about 12.7 mm, which means i can not use them right, so what to get?


get 12 mm tubes.







Several brands make it: Bitspower, e22, ek and so on.

@B NEGATIVE is coming along nicely. I enjoy the video very much. I have to go to UK this year at some point (Bath) and might hit you up to do some custom work for a new project. Case is not decided but the general idea is. The project should be called "integration" since from reservoir to gpu all would be integrated in the case.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I did, but you won't take it as you love being right. The pump is at the bottom of the *spiral fed by the top mounted rad*. You can see the pump clear as day. Also the PC is on...


So the fill point of the loop would be in the top radiator (or in this case would serve as a "2nd Reservoir" ) being that the true reservoir is located after the pump, above the GPU card.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I agree, but that's not the issue here. The system was running as you can see the fluid running in the res that's at the back of the case. PC said he didn't believe me and asked for proof, I gave him proof in the form of a video and he's still saying it's not good enough. The loop is running and I can't see a reason why it couldn't be done on a normal non show rig, pump gets fed by coolant any which way you look at it. The pump doesn't know any different it isn't sentient and doesn't have a preference.


The key is as a suggestion to a novice builder, this wouldn't be a primary way to build a loop for the first time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> doesnt count for much seeing that you cant see the pump. you have no idea if the *pump is fed by a rad* or 2nd res. that build doesnt much count for squat anyway. its a showpiece. they turn them on with no monitor. when the shows over, they get turned off. probably pulled apart for parts and never thought of again. i would like someone to find something to prove me wrong.


There doesn't appear to be a "backside" to case in order to hide components far as I can tell. No proffessional here to say the least, but as far as how a loop is built, this one was quite different as it appears to force run a pump dry. The only separation in the loop is the Rad that is attached to the roof of the case. The outlet from the CPU goes north to the rad and in turn goes down the spiral tubing to the bottom pump. So Theoretically, If I had built this loop, in order to not burn a pump, but to supply fluid to the reservoir mounted above the gpu, I would fill the rad at the top until the pump was filled with fluid to test run the loop, and use the top radiator as a "makeshift" reservoir.

TCO

EDIT: Also, benji starts the vid midway through the showing of the case. If you skip 20 secs back from his mark point, you can analyze the case in full perspective. The Top of the case has a plaque on it for the show, but under it you can see a mesh film, which I could guess is removable, or in this case was the fill point of the loop to not burn the pump.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I have 3 Micro Centers within 50 miles radius of me...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All their watercooling isle looks like crap, all the fittings are opened and people throw them around, sometimes i find a 90 elbow with a compression fitting on it, and back in the bag.


Lol only have 2 within a 10-15 mile radius from my home, chose to work at this location due to traffic patterns







but yeah next I'm organizing the fittings and might snag security boxes per style to prevent the "open packaging" issue. Cause it's a nightmare finding parts, especially for the Internet/Phone in orders that need to be ready for pickup in 18mins
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Just wait till you start to hate everyone because you are sick of dealing with stupid people. It happens to everyone. Lol


I have a thick skin for stupid people after working as a tech in a small shop where we had to sell our own work (want to talk about some dimwits)


----------



## MrPerforations

hello,
can you help me please?
I have a rasa 750 kit with to much radiator. i was thinking of getting a faster pump 750lph to 1200lph on a d5 single, but I cant seem to find a real flow rating for the dual d5 res/pump combo, could someone tell me please?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPerforations*
> 
> hello,
> can you help me please?
> I have a rasa 750 kit with to much radiator. i was thinking of getting a faster pump 750lph to 1200lph on a d5 single, but I cant seem to find a real flow rating for the dual d5 res/pump combo, could someone tell me please?


You have more than enough pressure with Dual D5.

Although Dual D5 gives better flow rates and DDC give better head pressure.









~Ceadder


----------



## Iceman2733

Welp time for me contribute, go easy this was my first time messing with water cooling to this extent. This computer was my step back into the PC world after a several year break.










I still have a few things to finish up like sleeving my pumps wires after I figure out which sleeving to use and than hook up my top light. And I think I am going to change out the color of fluid to a bright red instead. Not sure which color to go with as I don't want to mess with pastal fluids.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## iBruce

So this thread is where the big dogs run.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Welp time for me contribute, go easy this was my first time messing with water cooling to this extent. This computer was my step back into the PC world after a several year break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have a few things to finish up like sleeving my pumps wires after I figure out which sleeving to use and than hook up my top light. And I think I am going to change out the color of fluid to a bright red instead. Not sure which color to go with as I don't want to mess with pastal fluids.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What size tubing is that? They look really small, that or it's a huge case.


----------



## Iceman2733

It is 12mm bitspower and yes the case is large it is a Caselabs SMA8 so it a combo of both lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## iBruce

I'm going with 16mm hard tubing in a very small case for the overall aesthetic BOOM.

This first pic is not my rig, but one I have to build for a special someone, where to begin? It's sort of opposite my current black white gray tone build, but they do say opposites attract.

The contrast in tastes is overwhelming, how do we live under the same sun?









I'm a work bot, she is a pleasure bot.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Welp time for me contribute, go easy this was my first time messing with water cooling to this extent. This computer was my step back into the PC world after a several year break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have a few things to finish up like sleeving my pumps wires after I figure out which sleeving to use and than hook up my top light. And I think I am going to change out the color of fluid to a bright red instead. Not sure which color to go with as I don't want to mess with pastal fluids.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Clean!









I like color as is


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I'm going with 16mm hard tubing in a very small case for the overall aesthetic BOOM.
> 
> This first pic is not my rig, but one I have to build for a special someone, where to begin? It's sort of opposite my current black white gray tone build, but they do say opposites attract.
> 
> The contrast in tastes is overwhelming, how do we live under the same sun?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a work bot, she is a pleasure bot.


woah







those colors are incredible! I cannot stop looking at it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I'm going with 16mm hard tubing in a very small case for the overall aesthetic BOOM.
> 
> This first pic is not my rig, but one I have to build for a special someone, where to begin? It's sort of opposite my current black white gray tone build, but they do say opposites attract.
> 
> The contrast in tastes is overwhelming, how do we live under the same sun?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a work bot, she is a pleasure bot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those colors are incredible! I cannot stop looking at it
Click to expand...

IKR.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

@iBruce lol I was planning on doing something similar with my res in JAC when I do the reboot this month, but with my Aqualis Pro or a XSPC Photon 270. Looks good seeing just the res top


----------



## lu270bro

wow, I was just at that store in Duluth last weekend, on my way to my brother's in Aiken from Tennessee! Yes, the fittings basket is crap. I picked up a couple of the PE360 EK rads, an EK D5 pump, and a few other things. Will be heading back there in a month or so to pick up a couple of gpu's. The water cooling section looks a ton better than when I was there, great job! I love the MC in Duluth, but the other one near atlanta is not bad either. Doing my first water-cooling build in a couple of months and have been picking up parts here and there. Will be ordering a Parvum before long. I may shoot you a pm when I head that way if you wouldn't mind. Would be nice to get some advice from knowledgeable folk in person.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> 
> wow, I was just at that store in Duluth last weekend, on my way to my brother's in Aiken from Tennessee! Yes, the fittings basket is crap. I picked up a couple of the PE360 EK rads, an EK D5 pump, and a few other things. Will be heading back there in a month or so to pick up a couple of gpu's. The water cooling section looks a ton better than when I was there, great job! I love the MC in Duluth, but the other one near atlanta is not bad either. Doing my first water-cooling build in a couple of months and have been picking up parts here and there. Will be ordering a Parvum before long. I may shoot you a pm when I head that way if you wouldn't mind. Would be nice to get some advice from knowledgeable folk in person.


Wow there is a MC down the road from us. Might be worthy of taking a trip to Hotlanta to check out some of the water cooling gear.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> @iBruce lol I was planning on doing something similar with my res in JAC when I do the reboot this month, but with my Aqualis Pro or a XSPC Photon 270. Looks good seeing just the res top


yea but,

there is going to be a 60mm res tube mounted under the res top.

and a hole cut into the aluminum so the res tube can connect to the XRES REVO below.

it's not just a phantom white res top hovering.











This is the hole saw for the cut 64mm. for a 60mm diameter res, leaves 2mm for the U-channel per each radius so the U channel could support an independent reservoir via gravity alone.





http://www.caselabs-store.com/rubber-u-channel/


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> youre pulling assumptions out of your bum. you posted a video of a showpiece not an actual working computer. everyone loves to be right, including you. that is the only reason you posted a pc from an expo.
> yep, i see the pump now that i blew it up full screen. kind of hard to separate crap from poop in the dark.
> i never said the pc isnt on. unbunch your panties.
> 
> *EDIT* btw, just stop benji. go back and read my posts and stop trying to interpret them or make assumptions. it makes you look less intelligent than you might be. actually read my posts. i am very literal.


Very literal?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> doesnt count for much seeing that you cant see the pump. you have no idea if the pump is fed by a rad or 2nd res. that build doesnt much count for squat anyway. its a showpiece. they turn them on with no monitor. when the shows over, they get turned off. probably pulled apart for parts and never thought of again. i would like someone to find something to prove me wrong.


Ah It makes sense, you're blind! How unfortunate and I'm sorry for your disability, I'll take myself away from this conversation due to the shame of not knowing.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> woah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those colors are incredible! I cannot stop looking at it


Agreed, that is one sexy build!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So the fill point of the loop would be in the top radiator (or in this case would serve as a "2nd Reservoir" ) being that the true reservoir is located after the pump, above the GPU card.
> 
> AH YOU HAVE EYES THAT FUNCTION!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key is as a suggestion to a novice builder, this wouldn't be a primary way to build a loop for the first time.
> 
> 4TH TIME, NOT DISPUTING THAT, THE DISPUTE IS HE DIDN'T BELIEVE ME OR REVIEW THE EVIDENCE PRESENTED TO HIM THEN STATED IT WASN'T VALID DUE TO IT BEING A SHOW PC EVEN THOUGH THE LOOP IS FUNCTIONING...
> 
> There doesn't appear to be a "backside" to case in order to hide components far as I can tell. No proffessional here to say the least, but as far as how a loop is built, this one was quite different as it appears to force run a pump dry. The only separation in the loop is the Rad that is attached to the roof of the case. The outlet from the CPU goes north to the rad and in turn goes down the spiral tubing to the bottom pump. So Theoretically, If I had built this loop, in order to not burn a pump, but to supply fluid to the reservoir mounted above the gpu, I would fill the rad at the top until the pump was filled with fluid to test run the loop, and use the top radiator as a "makeshift" reservoir.
> 
> DAMN TCO, YOU HAVE A FUNCTIONING BRAIN TOO! 5/7!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Also, benji starts the vid midway through the showing of the case. If you skip 20 secs back from his mark point, you can analyze the case in full perspective. The Top of the case has a plaque on it for the show, but under it you can see a mesh film, which I could guess is removable, or in this case was the fill point of the loop to not burn the pump.


I thought he would of been able to visualise the loop using the video that clearly displays all the components but I was proven wrong clearly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey BenjiW, you mind not multiposting so much?

If you have something more to say quote the post an the edit your last post if nobody posts afterward,









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Loving my new job, and was assigned my favorite section that needed a lot of care, progress so far (still need to organize the fittings and a few other things)
> 
> 
> 
> So far I'm the first person they've hired that was knowledgeable in the custom side of Watercooling, let alone cared enough to take the time to organize it (at least start)


If you hAve any say you should get them to step up there fitting game. I think I speak for most water coolers that having the right firings match up can be rough. If micro center had a good selection you would be able to go I buy what you need and go back to return or pick up that one kissing fitting without the wait and cost of shipping (and than possibly not needing or using the fitting for whatever reason) right now they have small extenders , flex compression, caps, single rotary 90s and 45s. And hats about it outside of a ball valve or some needless swiftech fittings that idk who has a use for


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If you hAve any say you should get them to step up there fitting game. I think I speak for most water coolers that having the right firings match up can be rough. If micro center had a good selection you would be able to go I buy what you need and go back to return or pick up that one kissing fitting without the wait and cost of shipping (and than possibly not needing or using the fitting for whatever reason) right now they have small extenders , flex compression, caps, single rotary 90s and 45s. And hats about it outside of a ball valve or some needless swiftech fittings that idk who has a use for


The thing with fittings in stores like MC is how easy it is to steal them. Every other person will also always disorganize them. To me they should be kept behind a glass display locked away. But with one of each type being shown. Then you make your list on the spot and the guy goes and grabs it from behind a counter. Something like that otherwise is just a losing game.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> The thing with fittings in stores like MC is how easy it is to steal them. Every other person will also always disorganize them. To me they should be kept behind a glass display locked away. But with one of each type being shown. Then you make your list on the spot and the guy goes and grabs it from behind a counter. Something like that otherwise is just a losing game.


The MC near me are all out of 90 elbows, there's like a billion 45 elbow but 90's are all gone, that proves that people are switching ot acrylics more and 45s are not used as much in acrylics, if, ever..the angle just wouldn't fit right unless u have two 45's going at it.

You are right, there are fittings just lying around everywhere, i see elbows with compressions on it, elbows with a G1/4 plug, multiple extenders linked together...one would simply put it back into the little bag and purchase it as one unit.


----------



## toggLesss




----------



## brazilianloser

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*






That really makes me want to convert to 16mm but on top of all the recent headaches having to fork yet another $150+ is no bueno.
But it looks dam amazing.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> 
> That really makes me want to convert to 16mm but on top of all the recent headaches having to fork yet another $150+ is no bueno.
> But it looks dam amazing.


but it looks soo nice!


----------



## Laithan

I'm not a water cooling expert (but learning) so please forgive any and all n00b questions







. After reading the review in the link I provided plus many others like thermalbench it seems that... this "Flagship block" is sort of garbage not so much flagship material.....







(at least in these comparisons...) So let me put my concern in to context. I'm still trying to grasp the whole head pressure vs flow rate thing... I'm working on that one lol.

This link as a baseline, note *Swiftech Apogee XL* results.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014

RE: *Apogee XL CPU block*.. Bottom line I am reading everywhere the Swiftech Apogee XL is VERY restrictive as far as flow rate... I know that other blocks *perform* better but I want to leave performance out of this and just focus on *head pressure and flow rate* and if it is a bad choice for my configuration.




*Knowing you need details first here they are:*
LGA2011 (IVY-E)
Apogee XL CPU block
EK VRM block
EK Chipset block X79
(2) EK Full cover water blocks 980Ti's
(2) 140mm rad Swiftech / Alphacool
240mm rad Swiftech
420mm rad Koolance
3/8" ID
(2) Swiftech MCP30 pumps in serial

I can't comprehend those charts above in a way that I could directly answer my questions and just overthinking now. Do I almost *NEED* to get rid of this Apogee XL because it is like shooting myself in the foot here or doesn't really matter? Using 3/8" ID for example... maybe I shot myself in the foot right there to begin with









(Q.)s
Will increased head pressure of (2) MCP30's compensate for this lack of flow rate with the Apogee XL (forcing more water through with pure power?) or is it purely limited to block design?
Would I be correct in thinking that my Apogee XL CPU block is going to prevent the other EK blocks from performing as well as they could if there was higher flow?
Is my loop large enough where the restriction wouldn't matter *anyway* and all I really need to worry about is *head pressure*?
Given my *3/8" ID* is this restriction only an issue when using 1/2"ID and not really applicable to me much anyway?

I understand that running both of these pumps in serial would increase my head pressure but would not increase my flow rate. It seemed to me that the Apogee XL CPU block might be a devastating bottleneck in this loop and a really bad choice..









Am I overthinking this?
Help








thanks guys


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I'm not a water cooling expert (but learning) so please forgive any and all n00b questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . After reading the review in the link I provided plus many others like thermalbench it seems that... this "Flagship block" is sort of garbage not so much flagship material.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (at least in these comparisons...) So let me put my concern in to context. I'm still trying to grasp the whole head pressure vs flow rate thing... I'm working on that one lol.
> 
> This link as a baseline, note *Swiftech Apogee XL* results.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014
> 
> RE: *Apogee XL CPU block*.. Bottom line I am reading everywhere the Swiftech Apogee XL is VERY restrictive as far as flow rate... I know that other blocks *perform* better but I want to leave performance out of this and just focus on *head pressure and flow rate* and if it is a bad choice for my configuration.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Knowing you need details first here they are:*
> LGA2011 (IVY-E)
> Apogee XL CPU block
> EK VRM block
> EK Chipset block X79
> (2) EK Full cover water blocks 980Ti's
> (2) 140mm rad Swiftech / Alphacool
> 240mm rad Swiftech
> 420mm rad Koolance
> 3/8" ID
> (2) Swiftech MCP30 pumps in serial
> 
> I can't comprehend those charts above in a way that I could directly answer my questions and just overthinking now. Do I almost *NEED* to get rid of this Apogee XL because it is like shooting myself in the foot here or doesn't really matter? Using 3/8" ID for example... maybe I shot myself in the foot right there to begin with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Q.)s
> Will increased head pressure of (2) MCP30's compensate for this lack of flow rate with the Apogee XL (forcing more water through with pure power?) or is it purely limited to block design?
> Would I be correct in thinking that my Apogee XL CPU block is going to prevent the other EK blocks from performing as well as they could if there was higher flow?
> Is my loop large enough where the restriction wouldn't matter *anyway* and all I really need to worry about is *head pressure*?
> Given my *3/8" ID* is this restriction only an issue when using 1/2"ID and not really applicable to me much anyway?
> 
> I understand that running both of these pumps in serial would increase my head pressure but would not increase my flow rate. It seemed to me that the Apogee XL CPU block might be a devastating bottleneck in this loop and a really bad choice..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I overthinking this?
> Help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks guys


this will help you understand:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/

no, the block will not prevent the others block to function properly unless the add restriction of all your blocks make the flow so low that will become laminar. I doubt that would be the case with either a single d5 or a ddc but you need to add up all the restrictions of your blocks at a given flow rate to figure that out.

have nothing to do with 3/8 or 1/2. The same principles apply to either tube diameter.

Nope, you got it wrong. If you have two pumps in serial it will add head pressure and it will add flow rate up to a certain point. Head pressure is doubled but flow rate not necessarily. To give you a practical example. One loop with 2x d5. One d5 at 25% the other at 100% flow rate 1.057 GPM. both d5 at 100% will give me 1.4 gpm.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Swiftech....lol.....

Ditch the block,its never been anything to get excited over.

Pumps in serial will increase flow rate due to the higher pressure it can generate,they go hand in hand. you dont even need to worry about head pressure,a DDC or D5 is more than enough for a Sli/CPU loop,even with a few rads.
Tube bore means very little until you go below 8mm bore, then it could cause problems.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Swiftech....lol.....
> 
> Ditch the block,its never been anything to get excited over.
> 
> Pumps in serial will increase flow rate due to the higher pressure it can generate,they go hand in hand. you dont even need to worry about head pressure,a DDC or D5 is more than enough for a Sli/CPU loop,even with a few rads.
> Tube bore means very little until you go below 8mm bore, then it could cause problems.












~Ceadder


----------



## Laithan

Awesome thanks very much.. Apogee XL is on the ditch list especially now that I see a blue evo


----------



## TheCautiousOne

For the S3 coming up, I have been doing research







Which isn't ever a bad thing.

Based off of This Review from the wonderfull Cats at Xtremerigs, I will be going with 3 x 240mm XE Ek Rads. Paired with 1300rpm Noiseblocker fans.

Wish the woman wasn't putting up a fight about me building the rig. But I really don't have any room in the house for another Desk (Sigh) So this one might take a taddddd longer than expected. But It will give me plenty of time to enjoy the planning of yet another build.

Received my LTD Ed Bitspower White POM 150 Res' from PPC the other day. Uber Sleek.



TCO


----------



## wermad

Hehe, I can switch off one of my pumps and still get a decent flow







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hehe, I can switch off one of my pumps and still get a decent flow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That's how my dual DDC setup works so well. Only going D5 for space constraints. Back when D5 had all the cool little dressup doodads DDC pumps were consistently overlooked. Now DDC is getting a resurgence. Still dessup was never really my focus in watercooling. Space is.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

you know benji, for being english you have a very crappy understanding of it. you fail to read posts when it suits you. that just happens to be every time a point is made that you want to ignore. speaking of ignore, welcome to the blocked and ignore list of bryans asshats.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's how my dual DDC setup works so well. Only going D5 for space constraints. Back when D5 had all the cool little dressup doodads DDC pumps were consistently overlooked. Now DDC is getting a resurgence. Still dessup was never really my focus in watercooling. Space is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


love my dual ddc-1t set-up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sigh.....

Can we all move on from res feeding pumps and move on to why is Uplay so goddamn slow to DL The Division........


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sigh.....
> 
> Can we all move on from res feeding pumps and move on to why is Uplay so goddamn slow to DL The Division........










Neg, Don't act like you don't love the controversy









You like to shake up the tree every now and then.









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sigh.....
> 
> Can we all move on from res feeding pumps and move on to why is Uplay so goddamn slow to DL The Division........


you answered yourself... because it is uplay









After far cry 4 I am very weary of going uplay route again. what a crappy optimized game.

curious about the shapeoko 3 B. It can be used to mill a thick acrylic piece?


----------



## wermad

I hate uplay...worse then origin and windows live







.

I can tolerate steam since its got most of my games


----------



## pc-illiterate

uplay is total crap. the only reason i use steam is because gabe thinks hes god i want to see god fail yet again.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sigh.....
> 
> Can we all move on from res feeding pumps and move on to why is Uplay so goddamn slow to DL The Division........


Wait, you rely on Uplay to download???

I never buy/install through Uplay..

Not that Steam is any beter really, but at least I can do all my installs from there.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> uplay is total crap. the only reason i use steam is because gabe thinks hes god i want to see god fail yet again.


Seems counterproductive to use the app you want to see fail.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Seems counterproductive to use the app you want to see fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i figure another $275 i have spent $3000 at steam. that should be enough for it to fail. nothing i invest in survives. and oh my god have i invested in steam only games...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wait, you rely on Uplay to download???
> 
> I never buy/install through Uplay..
> 
> Not that Steam is any beter really, but at least I can do all my installs from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems counterproductive to use the app you want to see fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its mainly DRM for their games. Most of my Uplay games i downloaded through 3rd parties or steam.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Seems counterproductive to use the app you want to see fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i figure another $275 i have spent $3000 at steam. that should be enough for it to fail. nothing i invest in survives. and oh my god have i invested in steam only games...
Click to expand...

I think it's gonna take more purchases to see them fail.







lulz

I haven't spent nearly that much. Maybe I need to spend more too.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you answered yourself... because it is uplay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After far cry 4 I am very weary of going uplay route again. what a crappy optimized game.
> 
> curious about the shapeoko 3 B. It can be used to mill a thick acrylic piece?


Easily.

Just be aware of what requirements deep milling needs. Mainly lots of compressed air/Lots of heavy duty shop vac to keep the chips out of the cutting path,with the right tooling and methods you could go as deep as 75mm.
That wouldnt be easy however,weird things happen with very high RPM tools in a deep channel.

This site is a good read http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCDIYCNC.htm


----------



## wermad

Best price for data vac? I'm tired of dropping $15 on three cans that go easily (especially when the kids start messing w/ my chihuahua with them...







).

Need to install the phanteks....brb


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know they're $99.99 at MicroCenter right now, I need to pick one up as well since I hate using canned air. Also MassDrop always has something similar for a good deal

Also plan on investing in the filter kit for my M8


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm just curious; do 90 degree fittings contribute to restrictions? Not little restriction, but huge? I have roughly 12 or so 90 degree fitting in my build. With all 4 rads and two reservoirs, I get 1.21GPM.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it was Martin's Liquid Lab that showed multiple 90° angles (fittings) have little to no impact on flow rates.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Except for right at the Pump outlet. So long as that can be avoided, it makes little to no difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Ceadder ... thanks for the above comment. I am planning 2 D5 pumps in my build (in series). Originally, I was thinking of having this set up ...



Spoiler: SketchUp picture of pump layout and plumbing











[/SPOILER]

... where the liquid travels down from the (not shown) reservoir at the top, into the pump on the left then into the pump on the right then down to the radiators.

Obviously, there are a couple (!) of 90° bends here. I am trying to develop a pump location and plumbing approach to reduce this number of bends ... and I have a question ...

[B]Question[/B]: [I]Is there a minimum distance between the outlet from pump #1 to the input of pump #2? If so, what is this minimum distance?[/I]

And by minimum, feel free to get carried away and say that I can use a [URL=http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Double-nipple-G1-4-Outer-Thread-To-G1-4-Outer-Thread-with-O-ring-seals/568082064.html]male to male 5mm Barrow fitting[/URL] to join the pumps?


----------



## brazilianloser

Harbor Freight is so slow shipping parts out...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Ceadder ... thanks for the above comment. I am planning 2 D5 pumps in my build (in series). Originally, I was thinking of having this set up ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: SketchUp picture of pump layout and plumbing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> ... where the liquid travels down from the (not shown) reservoir at the top, into the pump on the left then into the pump on the right then down to the radiators.
> 
> Obviously, there are a couple (!) of 90° bends here. I am trying to develop a pump location and plumbing approach to reduce this number of bends ... and I have a question ...
> 
> [B]Question[/B]: [I]Is there a minimum distance between the outlet from pump #1 to the input of pump #2? If so, what is this minimum distance?[/I]
> 
> And by minimum, feel free to get carried away and say that I can use a [URL=http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Double-nipple-G1-4-Outer-Thread-To-G1-4-Outer-Thread-with-O-ring-seals/568082064.html]male to male 5mm Barrow fitting[/URL] to join the pumps?[/QUOTE]
> 
> maybe you can avoid some of those 90, specially on the inlets by playing around with the pumps position and alternative ports on the tops. Ideally avoid 90 on the inlet of the pump but if you must have put some distance between the 90 bend and the inlet (~50 mm) if possible. Notice that I am talking about the inlets specifically. As far as I known it does not matter the distance between the outlet of the first pump and the inlet of the second.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm just curious; do 90 degree fittings contribute to restrictions? Not little restriction, but huge? I have roughly 12 or so 90 degree fitting in my build. With all 4 rads and two reservoirs, I get 1.21GPM.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it was Martin's Liquid Lab that showed multiple 90° angles (fittings) have little to no impact on flow rates.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Except for right at the Pump outlet. So long as that can be avoided, it makes little to no difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ceadder ... thanks for the above comment. I am planning 2 D5 pumps in my build (in series). Originally, I was thinking of having this set up ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: SketchUp picture of pump layout and plumbing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> ... where the liquid travels down from the (not shown) reservoir at the top, into the pump on the left then into the pump on the right then down to the radiators.
> 
> Obviously, there are a couple (!) of 90° bends here. I am trying to develop a pump location and plumbing approach to reduce this number of bends ... and I have a question ...
> 
> [B]Question[/B]: [I]Is there a minimum distance between the outlet from pump #1 to the input of pump #2? If so, what is this minimum distance?[/I]
> 
> And by minimum, feel free to get carried away and say that I can use a [URL=http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Double-nipple-G1-4-Outer-Thread-To-G1-4-Outer-Thread-with-O-ring-seals/568082064.html]male to male 5mm Barrow fitting[/URL] to join the pumps?[/QUOTE]
> 
> Use these. They are 90s' using 45* fittings. So while they ae 90* fittings they don't impact your flow the same as a true 90* fitting will. [IMG alt="thumb.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/thumb.gif
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-dual-ig1-4-black-sparkle-rotary-mini-snake-style-adapter.html
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Ceadder ... thanks for the above comment. I am planning 2 D5 pumps in my build (in series). Originally, I was thinking of having this set up ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: SketchUp picture of pump layout and plumbing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> ... where the liquid travels down from the (not shown) reservoir at the top, into the pump on the left then into the pump on the right then down to the radiators.
> 
> Obviously, there are a couple (!) of 90° bends here. I am trying to develop a pump location and plumbing approach to reduce this number of bends ... and I have a question ...
> 
> [B]Question[/B]: [I]Is there a minimum distance between the outlet from pump #1 to the input of pump #2? If so, what is this minimum distance?[/I]
> 
> And by minimum, feel free to get carried away and say that I can use a [URL=http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Double-nipple-G1-4-Outer-Thread-To-G1-4-Outer-Thread-with-O-ring-seals/568082064.html]male to male 5mm Barrow fitting[/URL] to join the pumps?[/QUOTE]
> can you get pump tops that have inlets on the top? please excuse my paint drawing [IMG alt="lachen.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/lachen.gif
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> can you get pump tops that have inlets on the top? please excuse my paint drawing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If I recall correctly bitspower d5 top have 3 alternative inlets and 2 outlets.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know they're $99.99 at MicroCenter right now, I need to pick one up as well since I hate using canned air. Also MassDrop always has something similar for a good deal
> 
> Also plan on investing in the filter kit for my M8


I just use my vacuum cleaner in blower mode.







Probably not the best idea, then again I'm the nutty that puts my hands into a computer while it runs.

Anyway, went over HF last weekend. Got me that mini saw plus they where having sale too. So nab me more wrenches for my bike.









Picture time.

Then to dremel time on the case. Got a EATX mobo I need to wrangle into a case.










I got more goodies. I been on lurk mode over in the sales area of two forum boards.







Got me another AX1200i on the way. May put that one in the main rig and give this one my old AX1200.

Plus, I need to go hunt some white spray cans. Some stuff going to get sand and painted. I'm tired of all black.


----------



## Laithan

Once you've cleaned your pc with an actual compressor (yes outside) you'll never clean it any other way again. Just don't snap fan blades


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks Gabrielzm, Ceadderman & 0ldChicken for your replies.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> can you get pump tops that have inlets on the top? please excuse my paint drawing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have already purchased the pump headers ... watercool HEADKILLER F5 Tops. They have two inlet and two outlet with versions on the top and versions on the front.

I'll take a look at the orientation that you 'drew'







.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Once you've cleaned your pc with an actual compressor (yes outside) you'll never clean it any other way again. Just don't snap fan blades


how do you keep the capacitors from flying out?







I'm thinking of getting a compressor, we have so many rings takes too long to clean.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks Gabrielzm, Ceadderman & 0ldChicken for your replies.
> I have already purchased the pump headers ... watercool HEADKILLER F5 Tops. They have two inlet and two outlet with versions on the top and versions on the front.
> 
> I'll take a look at the orientation that you 'drew'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


nice, I figured you had some in mind at least. of course they probably won't line up nicely like in your original drawing. I guess you could also flip the second pump over completely after looking at your top


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






edit: maybe one of the double rotary's like cadder posted to offset the distance of the ports to keep the pumps even


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know they're $99.99 at MicroCenter right now, I need to pick one up as well since I hate using canned air. Also MassDrop always has something similar for a good deal
> 
> Also plan on investing in the filter kit for my M8
> 
> 
> 
> I just use my vacuum cleaner in blower mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably not the best idea, then again I'm the nutty that puts my hands into a computer while it runs.
> 
> Anyway, went over HF last weekend. Got me that mini saw plus they where having sale too. So nab me more wrenches for my bike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture time.
> 
> Then to dremel time on the case. Got a EATX mobo I need to wrangle into a case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got more goodies. I been on lurk mode over in the sales area of two forum boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got me another AX1200i on the way. May put that one in the main rig and give this one my old AX1200.
> 
> Plus, I need to go hunt some white spray cans. Some stuff going to get sand and painted. I'm tired of all black.
Click to expand...











Am so jelly on the RoG badging on your block. I've got the CIVF block and wish it had that logo.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am so jelly on the RoG badging on your block. I've got the CIVF block and wish it had that logo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Pretty sure he added that metal decal. Comes with the board or purchase of select ASUS products.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am so jelly on the RoG badging on your block. I've got the CIVF block and wish it had that logo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure he added that metal decal. Comes with the board or purchase of select ASUS products.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Looks embedded into the Acetal, but ymbr.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> nice, I figured you had some in mind at least. of course they probably won't line up nicely like in your original drawing.


I'll check with some extensions once I am back from walking #2 dog. I know that I can't change the location of the pump head mount (this one only has a single mount location) so it will mean mounting it on a wall or roof.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> I guess you could also flip the second pump over completely after looking at your top


I'm not sure pumps like running upside down ... even when using the inlet on the side. Anyone else got a comment on the 'upside down' suggestion?

Edit: While I asking about that ... here is another question ... what sort of store, shop, other should I be looking for if I am after some custom stamped, bent, cut aluminium items for (say) a stand for a couple of pumps? If anyone has a suitable suggestion in the Boston MA area ... even better.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm not sure pumps like running upside down ... even when using the inlet on the side. Anyone else got a comment on the 'upside down' suggestion?


Don't. I don't know why anyone would suggest it. Most likely way to run the pump dry.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks embedded into the Acetal, but ymbr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No clue, I bought them off another member here. All those parts are off other members here.







I'm tight with my money. Even all my GPUs and CPUs are 2nd hand.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm not sure pumps like running upside down ... even when using the inlet on the side. Anyone else got a comment on the 'upside down' suggestion?


The pump itself does not really care which way it is orientated - HOWEVER if you have air circulating in the system it can easily become trapped in the upper section of the pump (Where the impeller sits in the bowl) and thereby causing the bearing to possibly run dry.

Normally any air bubbles entering the pump would float to the top of the volute and exit quite easily but with the pump inverted, bubbles can get stuck in the bowl area and an air pocket can build up due to more bubbles entering but not being able to escape easily.

So its not a recommended orientation for the majority of pump tops.

Koolance make a pump top/reservoir combo where the pumps are mounted inverted and in this case the top is designed specifically to prevent air from entering the pumps when running (assuming the unit has been bled correctly in the first instance).

http://koolance.com/rp-452x2-dual-5-25in-reservoir-for-1-2-pmp-450-s-pumps


----------



## Ceadderman

@ruffhi...

Just go with your first design and use snake rotary 90* fittings. No need to complicate anything imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @ruffhi...
> 
> Just go with your first design and use snake rotary 90* fittings. No need to complicate anything imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


ohhh decisions. I was just downstairs 'playing' with the pump heads and looking at the crazy orientations required. Not completely happy with them. Maybe Ceadder's suggestion is the way forward. Maybe.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> how do you keep the capacitors from flying out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a compressor, we have so many rings takes too long to clean.


You'll definitely need to get used to the power and have a variable pressure trigger but well worth it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know they're $99.99 at MicroCenter right now, I need to pick one up as well since I hate using canned air. Also MassDrop always has something similar for a good deal
> 
> Also plan on investing in the filter kit for my M8


I'll shop around. Not sure if true, but someone got one for ~$50-60. Though, I think its time for me to get one non-the-less. The trips to Fry's and the cans are getting pricey.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I just use my vacuum cleaner in blower mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably not the best idea, then again I'm the nutty that puts my hands into a computer while it runs.
> 
> Anyway, went over HF last weekend. Got me that mini saw plus they where having sale too. So nab me more wrenches for my bike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus, I need to go hunt some white spray cans. Some stuff going to get sand and painted. I'm tired of all black.


My two shop vacs have seen other crud-tastic work around the house and work-shop (aka the shed and garage) that I can't really use them in blow. My compressor is on its way out as its spitting globs of water mixed with rust. I still have not pulled out my hepa filter (for my health issues), but this will help control dust too in the office where my rig is sitting. But having that little data-vac will be more versatile for other things around the house.


----------



## VSG

I didn't realize they were so expensive now, I got mine at $60-65 iirc about 2 years ago.


----------



## DarthBaggins

If I had a lil pancake compressor I would just use that to blow out the dust like when I worked in the auto shop


----------



## pc-illiterate

b&h photo. $57
yes a long link but the shopping link with 100 stores...

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/4249165964897137846?q=datavac&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&channel=sb&biw=2560&bih=1337&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.116274245,d.eWE&tch=1&ech=1&psi=wDLeVoz5JcbXmAH-v7dw.1457402540570.3&prds=hsecnline,paur:ClkAsKraX2eG_XwrrPf5aYEl50q2c49YM1r4DkDl0Wzog-gVMteUW0tNQ0CGklK15WmYO6kzo28ImoeHl_I3dQj6mElOSnGZ67Kj77VQUbL5Y3DuSm0s0ORg6hIZAFPVH70OFiotJaYjYTIW6egtJsd722BsPw,scoring:tp&ved=0ahUKEwi9uZnS_6_LAhXIZCYKHSQ2C00Q2SsICQ&ei=xjLeVr2-IsjJmQGk7KzoBA


----------



## FXformat

I feel a little guilty for this, but looks like an employee put the wrong stuff in these clearance bags and it happens to be the one I need. A drain valve.


----------



## Ceadderman

That's insane.









I will take one if that is legit. So hep a brotha out.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

I saw a bag that was $1.99 and i'm like hold up, i might not need it but i'm gonna buy it for 1.99...it was stapled shut, and it was inside a foam bag so i couldn't see what it was, it felt heavier than a fitting...so i pushed it around and i saw the drain valve stuck to the compression fitting...looks like someone might've put the two together and just left it there..and an employee scooped it up and put it in the bag and stapled it..

I felt really bad so i bought a gatorade from the drink fridge, crazy mark up on those...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I saw a bag that was $1.99 and i'm like hold up, i might not need it but i'm gonna buy it for 1.99...it was stapled shut, and it was inside a foam bag so i couldn't see what it was, it felt heavier than a fitting...so i pushed it around and i saw the drain valve stuck to the compression fitting...looks like someone might've put the two together and just left it there..and an employee scooped it up and put it in the bag and stapled it..
> 
> I felt really bad so i bought a gatorade from the drink fridge, crazy mark up on those...


I would run over there but am in a State where there is no MC tmk.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I feel a little guilty for this, but looks like an employee put the wrong stuff in these clearance bags and it happens to be the one I need. A drain valve.


Normally it's a person in customer service/cashier that knows minimal about what they're labeling, so really it works to an advantage. I found some nice BP passthru/fill port fittings that I set aside so I can snag them tomorrow.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> b&h photo. $57
> yes a long link but the shopping link with 100 stores...
> 
> https://www.google.com/shopping/product/4249165964897137846?q=datavac&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&channel=sb&biw=2560&bih=1337&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.116274245,d.eWE&tch=1&ech=1&psi=wDLeVoz5JcbXmAH-v7dw.1457402540570.3&prds=hsecnline,paur:ClkAsKraX2eG_XwrrPf5aYEl50q2c49YM1r4DkDl0Wzog-gVMteUW0tNQ0CGklK15WmYO6kzo28ImoeHl_I3dQj6mElOSnGZ67Kj77VQUbL5Y3DuSm0s0ORg6hIZAFPVH70OFiotJaYjYTIW6egtJsd722BsPw,scoring:tp&ved=0ahUKEwi9uZnS_6_LAhXIZCYKHSQ2C00Q2SsICQ&ei=xjLeVr2-IsjJmQGk7KzoBA


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Best price for data vac? I'm tired of dropping $15 on three cans that go easily (especially when the kids start messing w/ my chihuahua with them...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Need to install the phanteks....brb


$57 from Amazon. Still on my wishlist


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm not sure pumps like running upside down ... even when using the inlet on the side. Anyone else got a comment on the 'upside down' suggestion?


Ehhh, maybe I didn't think that one all the way through


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> $57 from Amazon. Still on my wishlist


Sweet







Needed to pick up a Phanteks fan from amazon. I'll get me free shipping


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Normally it's a person in customer service/cashier that knows minimal about what they're labeling, so really it works to an advantage. I found some nice BP passthru/fill port fittings that I set aside so I can snag them tomorrow.


What kind of discount do you get as an MC employee? Man the watercooling section here is a mess, for me to find an elbow i have to dig through a whole basket of crap to find one...

As of right now, there are ZERO 90 degree elbow that's silver/polished for sale...only bitspower black ones..which doesn't match my build.


----------



## wermad

Make sure you're gentle with the handle. They can easily brake. I hear BP recommends having water in there to lubricate and help it turn. I dunked my Barrow (similar design) in distilled and left it in the closed position once it was ready for my loop


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Make sure you're gentle with the handle. They can easily brake. I hear BP recommends having water in there to lubricate and help it turn. I dunked my Barrow (similar design) in distilled and left it in the closed position once it was ready for my loop


Use a syringe oiler and some silicone. In the closed position, apply a small amount to the ball. Then open it a couple of times to get good coverage on the valve. This will keep the handle from breaking off and since the valve isn't directly in the line of fire(loop order) you shouldn't see any silicone residue in your flow as long as you'e not heavy handed in the application process.









Should this concept scare you, apply a small dab of silicon gel to the surface and spread it with a Qtip and then work the ball valve back and forth. A thin coat is really all that's necessary.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I didn't realize they were so expensive now, I got mine at $60-65 iirc about 2 years ago.


Yeah, I think I paid $65 CAD for mine. Awesome tools, just don't use them at two am if you live in an apartment. Neighbours get a tad cranky, even cranking than if I fire up my coffee grinder


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Use a syringe oiler and some silicone. In the closed position, apply a small amount to the ball. Then open it a couple of times to get good coverage on the valve. This will keep the handle from breaking off and since the valve isn't directly in the line of fire(loop order) you shouldn't see any silicone residue in your flow as long as you'e not heavy handed in the application process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should this concept scare you, apply a small dab of silicon gel to the surface and spread it with a Qtip and then work the ball valve back and forth. A thin coat is really all that's necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm seeing chunks of white silicon falling out, errr is this gonna leak?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Last I checked my location has EK Nickle 90's in stock


----------



## Elder

Alpha is ready...this full custom alu ultracase costs me hundreds hours of work ... but it was worth it


----------



## wermad

Holy crap, is it finally done?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?


----------



## Elder

Almost.
Many small details to make ... acrylic panel (on both sides) done
and a few minor modifications in progress.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Almost.
> Many small details to make ... acrylic panel (on both sides) done
> and a few minor modifications in progress.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It is beautiful Elder and thks for sharing. A truly unique PC with a lot of good ideas, hard work and classic lines. in short a beauty.


----------



## Elder

Thank You very much









I wanted to have something the size of Cosmos 2
but with the possibility of mounting inside two radiators 560 HWLabs SR1.
PSU, mobotray ,rads and res/pump on slide trays ...so I had to make ultracase from scratch.





Three years of work and a lot of fun


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Now that's a tidy build.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Thank You very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to have something the size of Cosmos 2
> but with the possibility of mounting inside two radiators 560 HWLabs SR1.
> PSU, mobotray ,rads and res/pump on slide trays ...so I had to make ultracase from scratch.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three years of work and a lot of fun


Nice! Love the sliding radiator mount plate.


----------



## wermad

that build is a very epic scratch build. Nice to see it getting to the finish line soon









Well, my xspc led's where a tad better then before. So, I'm left with polishing the plugs and hopefully this make a difference. I have some white compound that might do the trick (use it for headlight restoration) and some blue compound as backup.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Ceadder ... thanks for the above comment. I am planning 2 D5 pumps in my build (in series). Originally, I was thinking of having this set up ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: SketchUp picture of pump layout and plumbing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> ... where the liquid travels down from the (not shown) reservoir at the top, into the pump on the left then into the pump on the right then down to the radiators.
> 
> Obviously, there are a couple (!) of 90° bends here. I am trying to develop a pump location and plumbing approach to reduce this number of bends ... and I have a question ...
> 
> [B]Question[/B]: [I]Is there a minimum distance between the outlet from pump #1 to the input of pump #2? If so, what is this minimum distance?[/I]
> 
> And by minimum, feel free to get carried away and say that I can use a [URL=http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Double-nipple-G1-4-Outer-Thread-To-G1-4-Outer-Thread-with-O-ring-seals/568082064.html]male to male 5mm Barrow fitting[/URL] to join the pumps?[/QUOTE]
> 
> Maybe go a simulair route I did with my DDC's
> 
> With several rotaries I was able to get the pumps next to each other, like with regular 90s. But without the sharp corners of the 90's.
> 
> I've used these:
> 
> [URL=http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/bitspower-g1-4-black-sparkle-dual-rotary-90-degree-ig1-4-adapter-bp-bs90r2.html?sl=EN]http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/bitspower-g1-4-black-sparkle-dual-rotary-90-degree-ig1-4-adapter-bp-bs90r2.html?sl=EN[/URL]
> 
> And these with male to male extenders on both sides of the snake rotary:
> 
> [URL=http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/bitspower-g1-4-black-sparkle-five-rotary-snake-style-dual-ig1-4-adapter-bp-bssr5d.html]http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/bitspower-g1-4-black-sparkle-five-rotary-snake-style-dual-ig1-4-adapter-bp-bssr5d.html[/URL]
> 
> And of course some 12OD fittings for where there is acrylic between the rotaries.
> 
> It did get pretty pricey this way, but it looks awesome in my opinion.
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2728594/][IMG alt=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2728594/width/200/height/400/flags/LL[/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: some additional links to used fittings/rotaries.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> You'll definitely need to get used to the power and have a variable pressure trigger but well worth it.


Which one are you using? Anything I should get that's an extra accessory that helped making the cleaning smoother? I have many magnetic filters also, we usually just wash them with soap and dry them. Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Use a syringe oiler and some silicone. In the closed position, apply a small amount to the ball. Then open it a couple of times to get good coverage on the valve. This will keep the handle from breaking off and since the valve isn't directly in the line of fire(loop order) you shouldn't see any silicone residue in your flow as long as you'e not heavy handed in the application process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should this concept scare you, apply a small dab of silicon gel to the surface and spread it with a Qtip and then work the ball valve back and forth. A thin coat is really all that's necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seeing chunks of white silicon falling out, errr is this gonna leak?
Click to expand...









Pretty sure wermad is smart and experienced enough to know I'm referring to silicon *grease*. Which shouldn't have any chunks whatsoever.









~Ceadder


----------



## Duke976

Change my watercooling set-up with the addition of EKXE480.
Before the XE480:


After adding the XE480 top rad and relegating the UT60 480 in the bottom.


Because i am cheap, I am still using the H140X as my pump & res combo to drive this setup











And lastly i am using EnzoTech 90degree compression fitting to hide the tube.


Full body shot of the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Cleaned out my Brother's Parvum for his bday. It had been a year + of the same EK Pastel Orange Coolant in there.

Take a Look.







TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Cleaned out my Brother's Parvum for his bday. It had been a year + of the same EK Pastel Orange Coolant in there.
> 
> Take a Look.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Why is he running 2ndary slots on his RAM? There is no obstruction on the first slot, so this has me puzzled.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why is he running 2ndary slots on his RAM? There is no obstruction on the first slot, so this has me puzzled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Me too, and looks like one of them is missing the heat sink?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

First draft: open to suggestions. Manifold between top rad and cpu will be replaced with a 90degree fitting. Will be a nice place for temp sensor, but I want to keep it as clean as possible. I can't achieve a bend tight enough to clear a second bend. I destroyed so much copper trying.


----------



## Radox-0

Afaik Pretty sure Asus manual ( if that is the gene) says you populate DIMM slot A2 and B2 first when you only have two sticks which is what he has done. Recall this as on a gene build I did it said to populate A2 and B2 which in the manual were red but on the board themselves were actually black.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Cleaned out my Brother's Parvum for his bday. It had been a year + of the same EK Pastel Orange Coolant in there.
> 
> Take a Look.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Looks like mild staining on those nickel blocks and the res, I'd be tempted to dismantle all of them and scrub them with water and soap then clean out the rads with vinegar etc.


----------



## Meisseli

Hey all!
I have been lurking here for the past few years and shown you my build way back when it was built.
Now it was time to clean the loop up and change the tubing and coolant. Also did some small changes to the hardware side (got me some ssd disks pretty cheap, two 240gb disks for 100€ total ;P). Now rocking Solid again with raid0 for OS, gpus running at 1200/1600 58C And cpu at 4.6ghz And 60C.

What do you guys think i should do next to the build?
Ps. Sorry for the pic quality, taken And send with my potato 6+

-Meisseli


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Afaik Pretty sure Asus manual ( if that is the gene) says you populate DIMM slot A2 and B2 first when you only have two sticks which is what he has done. Recall this as on a gene build I did it said to populate A2 and B2 which in the manual were red but on the board themselves were actually black.


Am reasonably sure that ASUS 4 slot boards run 1st and 3rd no matter what unless you have a clearance issue. It's not hurting anything(other than possible stability issues) to run 2nd and 4th. So either way no biggee. It was sort of confusing is all.









~Ceader


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Change my watercooling set-up with the addition of EKXE480.
> Before the XE480:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After adding the XE480 top rad and relegating the UT60 480 in the bottom.
> 
> 
> Because i am cheap, I am still using the H140X as my pump & res combo to drive this setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And lastly i am using EnzoTech 90degree compression fitting to hide the tube.
> 
> 
> Full body shot of the Enthoo Primo.


Is that all just cooling a CPU? Talk about overkill.







Must have some nice temps on it.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Am reasonably sure that ASUS 4 slot boards run 1st and 3rd no matter what unless you have a clearance issue. It's not hurting anything(other than possible stability issues) to run 2nd and 4th. So either way no biggee. It was sort of confusing is all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceader


Double checked to make sure I was not going mad hehe. But Asus manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VII-GENE/e9752_maximus_vii_gene_ug_v2_for_web_only.pdf page 25. Slot 2 and 4 with 2 sticks. Stumbled me when I was asked to troubleshoot the build with the gene in.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Am reasonably sure that ASUS 4 slot boards run 1st and 3rd no matter what unless you have a clearance issue. It's not hurting anything(other than possible stability issues) to run 2nd and 4th. So either way no biggee. It was sort of confusing is all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceader
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double checked to make sure I was not going mad hehe. But Asus manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VII-GENE/e9752_maximus_vii_gene_ug_v2_for_web_only.pdf page 25. Slot 2 and 4 with 2 sticks. Stumbled me when I was asked to troubleshoot the build with the gene in.
Click to expand...









So essentially what ASUS did was flip the slot array.










You learn something new every day I guess. Having no experience with the GENE(yet







lol) I think they did that to get four slots on the pcb. icbw however. Just seems like a weird way to go if there are no limitations in the traces. So it's the only explanation my limited intellect can come up with for that kind of change.









~Ceadder


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Is that all just cooling a CPU? Talk about overkill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must have some nice temps on it.


Yeah, cpu for now since i am thinking if i will sell those 980ti. Temp was anywhere from 61-68 using IBT very high benchmark. Gaming wise max temp is 52.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So essentially what ASUS did was flip the slot array.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You learn something new every day I guess. Having no experience with the GENE(yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol) I think they did that to get four slots on the pcb. icbw however. Just seems like a weird way to go if there are no limitations in the traces. So it's the only explanation my limited intellect can come up with for that kind of change.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Heh, yeah was a ehhhh moment looking at the manual and comparing it to the board. Don't want to make life too easy now do they by keeping things simple


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why is he running 2ndary slots on his RAM? There is no obstruction on the first slot, so this has me puzzled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I see you have been informed of the arrangement of the GENE. Quite Odd I agree.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Me too, and looks like one of them is missing the heat sink?


They are mixed ram sticks (As per his budget) Originally just used one stick of ram, then he added another later on. I built the computer yes, parts selection was up to him.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Looks like mild staining on those nickel blocks and the res, *I'd be tempted* to dismantle all of them and scrub them with water and soap then clean out the rads with vinegar etc.


You keep temping yourself sir. Those blocks are staying as is, where is, until part change is needed.

TCO


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Alpha is ready...this full custom alu ultracase costs me hundreds hours of work ... but it was worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks fantastic. Good job. Must feel nice since it was pretty much 4 years in the making.









Finished V1.1 of Big Lian Li today. Well minus another set of 2x16GB of ram I ordered 2 days ago.

i5-6400 @ 4.7GHz. Asus Z170-A. Asus GTX980 Strix. 32GB G.Skill DDR4 @ 2800MHz. Silverstone ST1000G. Lian Li PC-A77F. 256GB Samsung 950 Pro. 480GB Mushkin Striker. 240GB OCZ Revodrive 3. Intel 10GbE NIC. Creative X-Fi Titanium HD.

EK Supreme HF. EK Thermosphere. EK D5 w/ CSQ top and nickel pump cover. HWLabs 280 SR1. Coolgate 420. Primochill fittings & tubing. XSPC Photon.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Use a syringe oiler and some silicone. In the closed position, apply a small amount to the ball. Then open it a couple of times to get good coverage on the valve. This will keep the handle from breaking off and since the valve isn't directly in the line of fire(loop order) you shouldn't see any silicone residue in your flow as long as you'e not heavy handed in the application process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should this concept scare you, apply a small dab of silicon gel to the surface and spread it with a Qtip and then work the ball valve back and forth. A thin coat is really all that's necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seeing chunks of white silicon falling out, errr is this gonna leak?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure wermad is smart and experienced enough to know I'm referring to silicon *grease*. Which shouldn't have any chunks whatsoever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Lol!
I use that *bleep* on everything, my o-rings and seals, etc.
The grease, that is.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished V1.1 of Big Lian Li today. Well minus another set of 2x16GB of ram I ordered 2 days ago.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like your cable management on the back. What 'restraints' are those? Got a link ... or ...?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I really like your cable management on the back. What 'restraints' are those? Got a link ... or ...?


They are radiator screws drilled though the motherboard tray. Then retention bars are cut w/ a nibbler out of 12 - 14g aluminum.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Use a syringe oiler and some silicone. In the closed position, apply a small amount to the ball. Then open it a couple of times to get good coverage on the valve. This will keep the handle from breaking off and since the valve isn't directly in the line of fire(loop order) you shouldn't see any silicone residue in your flow as long as you'e not heavy handed in the application process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should this concept scare you, apply a small dab of silicon gel to the surface and spread it with a Qtip and then work the ball valve back and forth. A thin coat is really all that's necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seeing chunks of white silicon falling out, errr is this gonna leak?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure wermad is smart and experienced enough to know I'm referring to silicon *grease*. Which shouldn't have any chunks whatsoever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Lol!
> I use that *bleep* on everything, my o-rings and seals, etc.
> The grease, that is.
Click to expand...

I haven't used it at all but my Grampa used it on any friction surface so I well know how it's used and how it's applied. I just never owned a house so haven't needed it until now. No I don't own a house.







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished V1.1 of Big Lian Li today. Well minus another set of 2x16GB of ram I ordered 2 days ago.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like your cable management on the back. What 'restraints' are those? Got a link ... or ...?
Click to expand...

lowfat's cable work is my inspiration for how I want my cabling to look. Although I use MDPC cable rings instead of aluminum strapping. I rather like the look of his setup however so I may be doing something to this effect as well as shorting cable runs. 24pin on it's own should be able to lose 10" since I'm flipping the MB tray. 8pin is more like a foot and drives will likely only be 6 to 10" in length. I'm completely revamping the whole works.









I'm hoping that it will loop at least half as good as low's build.









~Ceadder


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

All plumbed in.


----------



## wermad

He's back.....


----------



## MrPerforations

hello,
so even though I have a pump at 750lph, its bottled by the cpu block to 360lph ?
atm I have pump then cpu block, rad then rad and then res, would that be best please?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPerforations*
> 
> hello,
> so even though I have a pump at 750lph, its bottled by the cpu block to 360lph ?
> atm I have pump then cpu block, rad then rad and then res, would that be best please?


Which pump model? What are you using to get your flow numbers btw?

edit: ok, i see you have an x2o kit. The pump is built into the reservoir and I've used one of these before. These are decent pumps and they should work good with one or two blocks. You can probably push it to three. Your other components will also put restriction into your loop so that has to be factored in.

Not to alarm you, but this pump is known to be sketchy either extremely noisy, they die abruptly, or sometimes they slowly loose performance. Make sure its plugged in right and nothing could be clogging it. If you can, remove it from your loop and try running it through your sink. If you have any warranty, contact xspc support. I've dealt with them and they're good.

One last bit of advise, I would personally ditch the silver and find another solution or run "naked". I've been running without any additives for a few years now (just distilled and nothing).

sorry, was on my mobile and you can't see rig specs in the mobile browser


----------



## Ceadderman

What block can cut any pumps flowrate by half on the first leg of the journey?... ah nvm, I'd have to recommend ditching that Bay Res and go with a low buck DDC and a reasonable ResTop. Cause no way in hades that Block should halve the flowrate.

And honestly it shouldn't matter which block you start your journey with, that pump doesn't have the oomph to get more than one block in the loop. The 90* Restrictions would bog it down too much imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Fun times


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all!
> I have been lurking here for the past few years and shown you my build way back when it was built.
> Now it was time to clean the loop up and change the tubing and coolant. Also did some small changes to the hardware side (got me some ssd disks pretty cheap, two 240gb disks for 100€ total ;P). Now rocking Solid again with raid0 for OS, gpus running at 1200/1600 58C And cpu at 4.6ghz And 60C.
> 
> What do you guys think i should do next to the build?
> Ps. Sorry for the pic quality, taken And send with my potato 6+
> 
> -Meisseli


Whoops just noticed that I didn't tell you any specs if you are interested so

MB: Asus sabertooth z77
CPU: Intel i5-3570k @ 4,6ghz
GPU1: HD7970 @ 1200/1600mhz
GPU2: HD7950 @ 1200/1600mhz
Drives: 2x OCZ Trion 240gb Raid0 and Kingston hyperx 128gb

-Meisseli


----------



## MrPerforations

hello again,
its not me that rated the flow, its somewhere in this thread, but it listed the flow rate of each cpu block, leaving going , a xspc 750 pump will bottle straight off, odd hu?


----------



## MrPerforations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> 
> 
> thanks guys


yer this?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPerforations*
> 
> hello,
> so even though I have a pump at 750lph, its bottled by the cpu block to 360lph ?
> atm I have pump then cpu block, rad then rad and then res, would that be best please?


???


----------



## Revan654

I'm Basically done with my very first Water Cooling Build, Minus some Cable clean up.





Water Temps:



PC Temps:



CPU Temps: 27C (My motherboard CPU temp has been off ever since I updated to Bios 1.20, Hopefully MSI will address it in the next update)
GPU Temps: 27C

My Rooms temps are a bit warmer then usually, due to sudden burst of warm temperatures outside.

----

Currently only issue I'm having is my capture card refuses to detect any kind of signal. Going get that replaced. Hopefully it's just faulty hardware.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPerforations*
> 
> yer this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ???


I think you need to read this:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/


----------



## MrPerforations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think you need to read this:
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/


thanks man.


----------



## r4ven

@B NEGATIVE

I've been lurking for a while and trying to get ideas for a new build. I want to splurge and make a rgb watercooled rig as a show piece for LANs that I attend regularly as well as refresh my gaming performance by replacing a 4yo rig. Anyway. I found this forum when searching google for ideas and quickly located the water cool gallery for some inspiration.

I've been poking around this thread for a couple of weeks now, sifting through posts to find some cool images like a true noob. In case there was anyone else as dumb as me, TIL there is a gallery button that allows you to go straight to the images rather than sift through a million posts.

So for all the noobs like me..


It might be worth mentioning briefly in OP as it would have saved me a lot of pointless page loads haha!

Keep up the good work everyone, the more images you post, the more inspiration I get to spend all those hard earned $$ on custom bits.

-raven


----------



## Ithanul

Ok, these ZMT tubing bugging me out. What barbs can work with it?

I got currently 5/8 OD 1/2 ID bitspower compression barbs. Ugh....I'm going to be a bit annoyed if I need some different barbs to use that tubing. As I really want matte black colored tubing.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ok, these ZMT tubing bugging me out. What barbs can work with it?
> 
> I got currently 5/8 OD 1/2 ID bitspower compression barbs. Ugh....I'm going to be a bit annoyed if I need some different barbs to use that tubing. As I really want matte black colored tubing.


If I recall correctly zmt is 3/8 x 5/8 (ID/OD) tube. So you will need 3/8 x 5/8 compressions.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Finished changing the tubing and lights on my sig rig.

Leak tested and fired her up.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ok, these ZMT tubing bugging me out. What barbs can work with it?
> 
> I got currently 5/8 OD 1/2 ID bitspower compression barbs. Ugh....I'm going to be a bit annoyed if I need some different barbs to use that tubing. As I really want matte black colored tubing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If I recall correctly zmt is 3/8 x 5/8 (ID/OD) tube. So you will need 3/8 x 5/8 compressions.


They actually make ZMT in three sizes, but none of them are 5/8-1/2, I'm afraid. As it stands, they've got 3/8-5/8, 7/16-5/8, and 1/2-3/4. I'm not sure why they felt it was important to have two lines of tubing with only marginally different measurements (1.6mm ID difference), but they deemed it necessary and that's what they've put out. It's great stuff, but I wouldn't recommend using it with Barrow compression fittings, as I had a hell of a time using the two together in my sleeper rig.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Finished changing the tubing and lights on my sig rig.
> 
> Leak tested and fired her up.


I love me some naked copper! Looks great


----------



## shremi

Need some assistance from fellow members with the black ice gtx rads.... I purchased the 480mm version and there is no way to mount it using the provided screws with the fans... I have measured the screws and they are about 26-27mm long... The only way to mount the Rad would be in a push configuration with the small screws on top and the fans on the bottom... I am going to use push pull so that's no bueno.... I'll try to go to a store tomorrow and find me some longer screws but it really seems strange I've used many rads in my time and this is a first one for me...

Thoughts???


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Need some assistance from fellow members with the black ice gtx rads.... I purchased the 480mm version and there is no way to mount it using the provided screws with the fans... I have measured the screws and they are about 26-27mm long... The only way to mount the Rad would be in a push configuration with the small screws on top and the fans on the bottom... I am going to use push pull so that's no bueno.... I'll try to go to a store tomorrow and find me some longer screws but it really seems strange I've used many rads in my time and this is a first one for me...
> 
> Thoughts???


Eh, my Black Ice rad is the same way. Seems like only the screws that came with it fit, but I have a TON of the long screws from other rads and none of them will thread...I ended up putting a very thin piece of black electrical tape at the start of the threads and screwing them in. They are pretty tight now, and I didn't booger up the threads fighting different screws.


----------



## MrPerforations

I would use a fan shroud, cost the same as a fan though.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Need some assistance from fellow members with the black ice gtx rads.... I purchased the 480mm version and there is no way to mount it using the provided screws with the fans... I have measured the screws and they are about 26-27mm long... The only way to mount the Rad would be in a push configuration with the small screws on top and the fans on the bottom... I am going to use push pull so that's no bueno.... I'll try to go to a store tomorrow and find me some longer screws but it really seems strange I've used many rads in my time and this is a first one for me...
> 
> Thoughts???


I had the same problem with one of their 240mm rads and my EVOLV mATX, I screwed in the fans to the case from the inside with normal self threading fan screws but just in the middle, then used the small screws that came with the rad through the fans (but only the bit closest to the rad, not all the way through), if you don't get what I mean I can post some pictures


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Need some assistance from fellow members with the black ice gtx rads.... I purchased the 480mm version and there is no way to mount it using the provided screws with the fans... I have measured the screws and they are about 26-27mm long... The only way to mount the Rad would be in a push configuration with the small screws on top and the fans on the bottom... I am going to use push pull so that's no bueno.... I'll try to go to a store tomorrow and find me some longer screws but it really seems strange I've used many rads in my time and this is a first one for me...
> 
> Thoughts???


Get yourself longer M4 screws.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE
> 
> I've been lurking for a while and trying to get ideas for a new build. I want to splurge and make a rgb watercooled rig as a show piece for LANs that I attend regularly as well as refresh my gaming performance by replacing a 4yo rig. Anyway. I found this forum when searching google for ideas and quickly located the water cool gallery for some inspiration.
> 
> I've been poking around this thread for a couple of weeks now, sifting through posts to find some cool images like a true noob. In case there was anyone else as dumb as me, TIL there is a gallery button that allows you to go straight to the images rather than sift through a million posts.
> 
> So for all the noobs like me..
> 
> 
> It might be worth mentioning briefly in OP as it would have saved me a lot of pointless page loads haha!
> 
> Keep up the good work everyone, the more images you post, the more inspiration I get to spend all those hard earned $$ on custom bits.
> 
> -raven


Second or third post has a google spreadsheet with user names and links to stuff they have done.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

There are 3 wc rigs in this pic


This was taken 3 years ago I helped with the acrylic .


----------



## Trestles126

She's working like a gem now. Put a gtx780 in it and all is well really impressed with this lil power house of a htpc. I built a fob suit case to hold my tvs hdmi selector as well as power strip and all cables nice and clean next to my front room PC. Had to really sell it to my wife for her to allow it in her pinteresting front room!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> They actually make ZMT in three sizes, but none of them are 5/8-1/2, I'm afraid. As it stands, they've got 3/8-5/8, 7/16-5/8, and 1/2-3/4. I'm not sure why they felt it was important to have two lines of tubing with only marginally different measurements (1.6mm ID difference), but they deemed it necessary and that's what they've put out. It's great stuff, but I wouldn't recommend using it with Barrow compression fittings, as I had a hell of a time using the two together in my sleeper rig.


And I have a guess EK fittings are the only ones that play nice with ZMT tubing. O well, at least their fittings look nice. I was hopping to try avoiding buying more fittings, but seems not going to be the case. Probably grab them since I need to buy some angle rotary anyways.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> She's working like a gem now. Put a gtx780 in it and all is well really impressed with this lil power house of a htpc. I built a fob suit case to hold my tvs hdmi selector as well as power strip and all cables nice and clean next to my front room PC. Had to really sell it to my wife for her to allow it in her pinteresting front room!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I absolutely love the pump mounting! Very clean, great use of the space, and looks fantastic.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

OK!!! So I have a report back about the Aurora2 that was given to me for free by mayhems when I built and assembled the S3 (Southern Persuasion)

About a month or so after the inital application of the Aurora 2 (Red) was added, I noticed that the pump speed was decreasing in small incriments. Initially I was at 84 gal/hr.

After a month it had dropped to 75-78 Gal/hr.

Then another month went by and we had flatlined to 67 Gal/hour. After the first month the particles were completely gone. And just red fluid was cycling through.

TODAY! I was going to drain the system and replace with clear distilled. I started to drain the reservoir first. Filled it back up with distilled fluid and cycled the system once. It was still very very dark red. So I drained the res again and a tad amount of air went through the cpu block and to the gpu block. I filled the Reservoir back again with distilled and powered on. I wanted the fluid level to be slightly lower this time around from the inlet of the Res in order to grab a small amount of air on the way through the system.

Low and behold! The System is back to 78Gal/Hr and all of the particles are cycling through the system!



TCO


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> And I have a guess EK fittings are the only ones that play nice with ZMT tubing. O well, at least their fittings look nice. I was hopping to try avoiding buying more fittings, but seems not going to be the case. Probably grab them since I need to buy some angle rotary anyways.


I have some Bitspower fittings on my ZMT tubing. It is a tight fit but they do work fine together.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> I absolutely love the pump mounting! Very clean, great use of the space, and looks fantastic.


Agreed! that is a very slick pump install. Very creative


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> OK!!! So I have a report back about the Aurora2 that was given to me for free by mayhems when I built and assembled the S3 (Southern Persuasion)
> 
> About a month or so after the inital application of the Aurora 2 (Red) was added, I noticed that the pump speed was decreasing in small incriments. Initially I was at 84 gal/hr.
> 
> After a month it had dropped to 75-78 Gal/hr.
> 
> Then another month went by and we had flatlined to 67 Gal/hour. After the first month the particles were completely gone. And just red fluid was cycling through.
> 
> TODAY! I was going to drain the system and replace with clear distilled. I started to drain the reservoir first. Filled it back up with distilled fluid and cycled the system once. It was still very very dark red. So I drained the res again and a tad amount of air went through the cpu block and to the gpu block. I filled the Reservoir back again with distilled and powered on. I wanted the fluid level to be slightly lower this time around from the inlet of the Res in order to grab a small amount of air on the way through the system.
> 
> Low and behold! The System is back to 78Gal/Hr and all of the particles are cycling through the system!
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Particles + flow meter was never going to end well.......


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Particles + flow meter was never going to end well.......


Well Ole B Neg, Instead of totally dismissing the idea of ditching the Aurora2, I wanted to try to see if there was a way to revive it. The 400Mps only has a small needle inside of it (I believe) to read flow, and have tried to use the easiest (Simple) loop in order for the Aurora to not run into crevices or obstacles inside of the loop.

+ The Aurora2 was free









More than happy to ship you the other free bottle if thats part of your bag









TCO


----------



## gdubc

So, where was the hold up? In the meter itself?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well Ole B Neg, Instead of totally dismissing the idea of ditching the Aurora2, I wanted to try to see if there was a way to revive it. The 400Mps only has a small needle inside of it (I believe) to read flow, and have tried to use the easiest (Simple) loop in order for the Aurora to not run into crevices or obstacles inside of the loop.
> 
> + The Aurora2 was free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than happy to ship you the other free bottle if thats part of your bag
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I used Aurora once,saw the particles vanish (Read: settled) over a week and decided that its not good for much,Im just using clear dyes ,if any, now. Pastel is just as bad but over a longer period,LUMO is just clear yellow brown now.....

I have plenty of of various coolants,no need for more crap in the shed.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> So, where was the hold up? In the meter itself?


The Hold up seemed to be in pretty much all components with the flow (67 gal/hour) not being enough? Either that or once I had topped off the reservoir, The inlet tube being below the water line was not enough to keep the particles moving. Once a small amount of air was introduced back into the system, everything came back alive.

The Loop was not broken down (Mind you) Just the res drained of existing fluid, and replaced with distilled, Possibly 1000ml Total, or 2/10 of a Gal (I think that is the correct conversion)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I used Aurora once,saw the particles vanish (Read: settled) over a week and decided that its not good for much,Im just using clear dyes ,if any, now. Pastel is just as bad but over a longer period,LUMO is just clear yellow brown now.....
> 
> I have plenty of of various coolants,no need for more crap in the shed.....


I completely understand the position about the pastel. I have grown old of the idea. Next flush for the SMA8 I will use dye, although I am not sure I want to part ways with the Blueberry pastel. It really is a dream in person. The Pastel is actually so blue that even 5-6 months later, it hasn't lost much. Now the green on the other hand.... lets just say I will grab some dye and go that route. The *Aurora* was given to me by Mick From Mayhems after I had a problem with the Orange Pastel. So I used it in the S3 build for work so I can monitor it everyday (Being that my work computer that I am typing to you on) Is prominent in my life and used 10 hours a day, 5 days a week.

The Aurora doesn't have to be a temporary type of fluid it seems, just that the flow needs be right, and the components that it passes through, unrestrictive to a degree.

TCO


----------



## brazilianloser

Now to wait for UPS to deliver me my replacement board... Finally get to start the rebuild process... and for those that were around a few posts back, I tried all the "good" recommendations given here but in the end I had to just forcefully bend the ports on my rad to make them straight. Very stressful process but only needed to do it to one port on the 240 rad and one port on the 360 rad.









First delivery of the day, some Ensourced cables to add in to the build.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My cards are running hot, seems like I by-passed them by using the wrong ports on the EK Terminal.

Doesn't make sense, I figured as long as I used opposite ports on the inlet and outlet, I should be fine. EK's instructions clearly specify the correct use of the ports.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I have some Bitspower fittings on my ZMT tubing. It is a tight fit but they do work fine together.


Hmmm, what size Bitspower and ZMT tube?


----------



## gdubc

My 3/8x5/8 zmt seems pretty loose on the Monsoon chainguns as well, makes me a ltitle nervous. No leaks on the rad flushin pond pump setup, but I haven't air leak tested the rest yet.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, what size Bitspower and ZMT tube?


10MM (3/8 ID - 5/8 OD) fittings, 16/10mm ZMT. As i said, it's a snug fit. Getting the compression ring around the tube is a little tight and it takes a little strength to tighten them but it's definitely working. Obviously the EK fittings fit on smoother but the Bitspowers are no problem with just a tiny bit more effort.


----------



## lu270bro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks fantastic. Good job. Must feel nice since it was pretty much 4 years in the making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished V1.1 of Big Lian Li today. Well minus another set of 2x16GB of ram I ordered 2 days ago.
> 
> i5-6400 @ 4.7GHz. Asus Z170-A. Asus GTX980 Strix. 32GB G.Skill DDR4 @ 2800MHz. Silverstone ST1000G. Lian Li PC-A77F. 256GB Samsung 950 Pro. 480GB Mushkin Striker. 240GB OCZ Revodrive 3. Intel 10GbE NIC. Creative X-Fi Titanium HD.
> 
> EK Supreme HF. EK Thermosphere. EK D5 w/ CSQ top and nickel pump cover. HWLabs 280 SR1. Coolgate 420. Primochill fittings & tubing. XSPC Photon.


Your cabling and management look super clean! This is a very high standard, and one I hope to approach one day. What is used to cover the hard-line tubing here?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> 
> Your cabling and management look super clean! This is a very high standard, and one I hope to approach one day. What is used to cover the hard-line tubing here?


Thanks.









It is MDPC-X SATA sleeving. Which can be bought @ Case Labs. I had to drill out the compression rings on the fittings to allow the sleeving to go through. Rather easy to do if you have a vice and a stepped drill bit. You just need to be careful that you don't drill off too much material otherwise the fitting will be ruined.


----------



## lu270bro

Ok, I wasn't sure. I thought you may have found some xxxl paracord. I am in process of sleeving cables with 550 and want to do Sata Data. I have seen the mdpcx and teleios stuff, but it would kinda stick out from the 550 colors I have. Anyways, thanks again!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My cards are running hot, seems like I by-passed them by using the wrong ports on the EK Terminal.
> 
> Doesn't make sense, I figured as long as I used opposite ports on the inlet and outlet, I should be fine. EK's instructions clearly specify the correct use of the ports.


yet it is the most likely cause...Either you have not the blocks mounted well or you got the in and out reversed. where is the in (bottom of top of the ek-fc terminal)? check the installation pdf:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868096.pdf
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Finished changing the tubing and lights on my sig rig.
> 
> Leak tested and fired her up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2730122/width/200/height/400[/IMG]


if it is entering from the top is going in the wrong port. is clearly marked for triple serial as no "in" in the top right port. You can either have the top left port as inlet or outlet but not the right one...same goes for the bottom right port. Can either be outlet or inlet depending on your flow pattern.


----------



## BWAS1000

FINALLY looking to do this correctly. I need to get my hands on a Water block, so before I do anything stupid, would anyone be able to assist me?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My cards are running hot, seems like I by-passed them by using the wrong ports on the EK Terminal.
> 
> Doesn't make sense, I figured as long as I used opposite ports on the inlet and outlet, I should be fine. EK's instructions clearly specify the correct use of the ports.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if it is is entering from the top is going in the wrong port. is clearly marked for triple serial as no "in" in the top right port. You can either have the top left port as inlet or outlet but not the right one...same goes for the bottom right port. Can either be outlet or inlet depending on your flow pattern.


yep, rtfm.
i didnt even think you could use that triple on a dual card set-up by looking at the diagrams. the diagrams show you NEED a middle card to get flow. whatever, ek, whatever.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> 10MM (3/8 ID - 5/8 OD) fittings, 16/10mm ZMT. As i said, it's a snug fit. Getting the compression ring around the tube is a little tight and it takes a little strength to tighten them but it's definitely working. Obviously the EK fittings fit on smoother but the Bitspowers are no problem with just a tiny bit more effort.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks on that. Seems I may still have to get different fittings. Don't think I have any 3/8 ID 5/8 OD fittings laying about. Got a good amount of rads, pumps, and res. Need to get me a stash of fittings built up it seems.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yep, rtfm.
> i didnt even think you could use that triple on a dual card set-up by looking at the diagrams. the diagrams show you NEED a middle card to get flow. whatever, ek, whatever.


that is that too, no card in the middle slot. The easier solution @LaBestiaHumana is just to drop the ek fc terminal and add a small copper tube with two fittings between the cards. That way you can maintain the current tubes as they are and will look much better anyway.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> OK!!! So I have a report back about the Aurora2 that was given to me for free by mayhems when I built and assembled the S3 (Southern Persuasion)
> 
> About a month or so after the inital application of the Aurora 2 (Red) was added, *I noticed that the pump speed was decreasing* in small incriments. Initially I was at 84 gal/hr.
> 
> After a month it had dropped to 75-78 Gal/hr.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Then another month went by and we had flatlined to 67 Gal/hour. After the first month the particles were completely gone. And just red fluid was cycling through.
> 
> TODAY! I was going to drain the system and replace with clear distilled. I started to drain the reservoir first. Filled it back up with distilled fluid and cycled the system once. It was still very very dark red. So I drained the res again and a tad amount of air went through the cpu block and to the gpu block. I filled the Reservoir back again with distilled and powered on. I wanted the fluid level to be slightly lower this time around from the inlet of the Res in order to grab a small amount of air on the way through the system.
> 
> Low and behold! The System is back to 78Gal/Hr and all of the particles are cycling through the system!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


@TheCautiousOne Did you witness/record the actual pump speed decreasing over time ?? as in rpm dropping.
OR
most likely that the MPS sensor ports were becoming blocked with particles (no needles inside MPS Flow Meters







)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yet it is the most likely cause...Either you have not the blocks mounted well or you got the in and out reversed. where is the in (bottom of top of the ek-fc terminal)? check the installation pdf:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868096.pdf
> if it is entering from the top is going in the wrong port. is clearly marked for triple serial as no "in" in the top right port. You can either have the top left port as inlet or outlet but not the right one...same goes for the bottom right port. Can either be outlet or inlet depending on your flow pattern.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yep, rtfm.
> i didnt even think you could use that triple on a dual card set-up by looking at the diagrams. the diagrams show you NEED a middle card to get flow. whatever, ek, whatever.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> that is that too, no card in the middle slot. The easier solution @LaBestiaHumana is just to drop the ek fc terminal and add a small copper tube with two fittings between the cards. That way you can maintain the current tubes as they are and will look much better anyway.


I have been using it for about a year now. Problem was indeed that I used the wrong ports. The reason I went with the left port on top, was because it aligned perfectly with the CPU inlet port. I'm now using the correct ports and temps are back to normal. The triple serial works with two cards, just need the special dummy port in the middle.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23135/ex-blc-1666/_EK-FC_Terminal_BLANK_Serial_EK-FC_Terminal_BLANK_Serial.html

I was thinking about putting some fittings and some copper for a bridge, but I like how the Terminal keeps the cards from sagging. It squares them off pretty good.

Edit: Pics Pics Pics


----------



## brazilianloser

Darn... was coming along quite nicely, until I come across a no win situation. Need a 10 mm extender and possibly a 90 degree snake style extender in order to finish the build. Guess its 3 hour drive tomorrow for two fittings... But so far so good.


----------



## r4ven

Reversible Flow Question

I've been doing a bunch of reading recently about coloured dyes and how bad they are long term in your loop (especially the cool pearlescent ones). I've noticed that a lot of people are now adding drainage valves to the bottom of their loop to help empty the coolant for replacement. Great idea! (it has been about 10 years since I watercooled a pc and can't believe I didn't think of this back then!)

In relation to cleaning the loop from any buildup or particulates, I was wondering has anyone thought about adding (near the pump) a 4 way reversing flow valve?

I picture turning a lever and the flow direction around the loop is reversed. Reversing the flow would surely help to flush any gunk out of the waterblocks in less time than it takes to fill and drain the system with cleaning solution several times. Alternatively a reversible flow pump if that's a thing..

I'm really hoping to use coloured coolants with my build (because they look great) so I want to try to make it as easy as possible to maintain to prevent the common issues.

Alternatively, if you are using funky coloured coolants what tricks are you using to prevent buildup etc?

Cheers,
-raven


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Reversible Flow Question
> 
> I've been doing a bunch of reading recently about coloured dyes and how bad they are long term in your loop (especially the cool pearlescent ones). I've noticed that a lot of people are now adding drainage valves to the bottom of their loop to help empty the coolant for replacement. Great idea! (it has been about 10 years since I watercooled a pc and can't believe I didn't think of this back then!)
> 
> In relation to cleaning the loop from any buildup or particulates, I was wondering has anyone thought about adding (near the pump) a 4 way reversing flow valve?
> 
> I picture turning a lever and the flow direction around the loop is reversed. Reversing the flow would surely help to flush any gunk out of the waterblocks in less time than it takes to fill and drain the system with cleaning solution several times. Alternatively a reversible flow pump if that's a thing..
> 
> I'm really hoping to use coloured coolants with my build (because they look great) so I want to try to make it as easy as possible to maintain to prevent the common issues.
> 
> Alternatively, if you are using funky coloured coolants what tricks are you using to prevent buildup etc?
> 
> Cheers,
> -raven


Well, there's no reversible flow pump, but I'm sure you could network this together using some T fittings and ball valves if you wanted to do so. How effective it would be remains to be seen because I've not heard of it being done before.


----------



## ivoryg37

Does a 10w DDC need a heatsink? I plan on putting my DDC pump in the PSU chamber of the air 240 which won't have any airflow.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does a 10w DDC need a heatsink? I plan on putting my DDC pump in the PSU chamber of the air 240 which won't have any airflow.


a ddc running full speed or close to it needs at least air flow across its bottom. mine run under-volted at 7.2v mounted to a fan.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does a 10w DDC need a heatsink? I plan on putting my DDC pump in the PSU chamber of the air 240 which won't have any airflow.


10W? No,they are fine without one.


----------



## pedidestroyer

So this is my 1st water cooling build for 4k gaming...awesome experience....mods in the pipeline...hard tube by the end of the month.

Some stats:

5930k
Asus Deluxe x99 motherboard
2 x Asus Strix 980ti's
EK GPU waterblocks
EK Supremacy CPU block
Alphcool Rads (420 up top and 280 in front)
Pump Res (Icedecker Res & D5 PWM Pump)
Fittings:mix of bits and EK

Temps:

Idle:
CPU 27 - 32 °C
GPU 26 - 30 °C

Gaming Full Load (quite setting, fans @ 700 rpm)

CPU 50 - 51 °C
GPU 52 - 55 °C

Fans @ 900 rpm

CPU 48 - 51 °C
GPU 50 - 52 °C

OC CPU @ 4200mhz, V 1.26
GPU: Strix overclock 1490 around there...can't remember...need to check again ;-)

Comments and suggestions welcome.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Reversible Flow Question
> 
> I've been doing a bunch of reading recently about coloured dyes and how bad they are long term in your loop (especially the cool pearlescent ones). I've noticed that a lot of people are now adding drainage valves to the bottom of their loop to help empty the coolant for replacement. Great idea! (it has been about 10 years since I watercooled a pc and can't believe I didn't think of this back then!)
> 
> In relation to cleaning the loop from any buildup or particulates, I was wondering has anyone thought about adding (near the pump) a 4 way reversing flow valve?
> 
> I picture turning a lever and the flow direction around the loop is reversed. Reversing the flow would surely help to flush any gunk out of the waterblocks in less time than it takes to fill and drain the system with cleaning solution several times. Alternatively a reversible flow pump if that's a thing..
> 
> I'm really hoping to use coloured coolants with my build (because they look great) so I want to try to make it as easy as possible to maintain to prevent the common issues.
> 
> Alternatively, if you are using funky coloured coolants what tricks are you using to prevent buildup etc?
> 
> Cheers,
> -raven



sort of like this but not for a heatpump? I could see that working quite nicely


----------



## ruffhi

except aren't their some blocks / rads that have designated in and out ports?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne Did you witness/record the actual pump speed decreasing over time ?? as in rpm dropping.
> OR
> most likely that the MPS sensor ports were becoming blocked with particles (no needles inside MPS Flow Meters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I saw the response in the build log but wanted to reply here! Thanks for the comment FF. By the way... What are the pictures above... Of ? That the board for the Flow meter?

I did not witness the actual rpm drop of the pump, Just had monitored the flow rate this whole time. What are the odds that the flow meter was the actual point of Clogging? I have never heard of this until today. I figured the particles started settling due to the level of fluid in the reservoir being above the inlet line.

TCO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I saw the response in the build log but wanted to reply here! Thanks for the comment FF. By the way... What are the pictures above... Of ? That the board for the Flow meter?
> 
> I did not witness the actual rpm drop of the pump, Just had monitored the flow rate this whole time. What are the odds that the flow meter was the actual point of Clogging? I have never heard of this until today. I figured the particles started settling due to the level of fluid in the reservoir being above the inlet line.
> 
> TCO


Yep the pictures above are of the MPS flow controller board.
This is the post where I dismantled a few MPS flow meters
May find some useful info there if you ever want to dismantle yours to clean out properly








I am 99.9% sure that your flow meter ports were blocking with the Aurora particles, and that was _affecting the flow rate reading_ *not that* the pump was slowing or the actual flow rate was dropping.


----------



## kgtuning

Does anyone have the measurements of this T fitting?


Bitspower doesn't have the dimensions listed. Looking for width,height and length.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yep the pictures above are of the MPS flow controller board.
> This is the post where I dismantled a few MPS flow meters
> May find some useful info there if you ever want to dismantle yours to clean out properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am 99.9% sure that your flow meter ports were blocking with the Aurora particles, and that was _affecting the flow rate reading_ *not that* the pump was slowing or the actual flow rate was dropping.


Agreed.

More than likely impact accretion. Could also be the same on any finned section approaches.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Does anyone have the measurements of this T fitting?
> 
> 
> Bitspower doesn't have the dimensions listed. Looking for width,height and length.


if no one answers I can measure mine when I get home. But that will be much later today.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> if no one answers I can measure mine when I get home. But that will be much later today.


Oh that would be awesome. No rush.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yep the pictures above are of the MPS flow controller board.
> This is the post where I dismantled a few MPS flow meters
> May find some useful info there if you ever want to dismantle yours to clean out properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am *99.9%* sure that your flow meter ports were blocking with the Aurora particles, and that was _affecting the flow rate reading_ *not that* the pump was slowing or the actual flow rate was dropping.


The supposed "Flow Rate" was concerning me, but the fact that buildup in the 400mps was happening is easing my concern. I had failed to realize there was a lip inside of the mps that could accrue buildup. I appreciate the response and knowledge as usual FF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> More than likely impact accretion. Could also be the same on any finned section approaches.


Bneg. Thank you.

For the Both of you, here is a GIF



TCO


----------



## lowfat

Uh oh. So this has started happening after 3 days. This is the only block in the loop showing trouble. Every other block has been used in the loop for 14 months prior to this w/o issue. I've thoroughly cleaned every block and part. Radiators w/ hot water soak/shake/repeat/rinse method. Ever part that could be opened was washed w/ dish soap & toothbrush. Coolant is 100% distilled w/ no addictives.


----------



## wermad

Its a supreme HF and those were around the time of Nickel gate. I had v2 (round top) when i got hit.

Or, could be the jet plate, stainless, somehow corroding....

That sucks dude since you put in a ton of work and time into your awesome rigs


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its a supreme HF and those were around the time of Nickel gate. I had v2 (round top) when i got hit.
> 
> Or, could be the jet plate, stainless, somehow corroding....
> 
> That sucks dude since you put in a ton of work and time into your awesome rigs


This is an 'EN' block though so it was after the flaking issue. I have drained the loop and opened the block and was able to just wash it off w/ soap and water. However it is back 2 days later. The jet plate has no rust material on it.

This block hasn't actually seen more than 2 days of water before this but I do have another Supreme HF I can swap in to see if the issue continues.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> This is an 'EN' block though so it was after the flaking issue. I have drained the loop and opened the block and was able to just wash it off w/ soap and water. However it is back 2 days later. The jet plate has no rust material on it.
> 
> This block hasn't actually seen more than 2 days of water before this but I do have another Supreme HF I can swap in to see if the issue continues.


Is it possible it is some sort or growth?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Is it possible it is some sort or growth?


It looks and feels like rust to me. I don't think anything could grow in 3 days. Especially since the loop is on 24/7.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It looks and feels like rust to me. I don't think anything could grow in 3 days. Especially since the loop is on 24/7.


Looks exactly like rust to me. That is really strange. Defect in the coating? The ironic part is you wouldn't even know if it wasn't a clear block


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Looks exactly like rust to me. That is really strange. Defect in the coating? The ironic part is you wouldn't even know if it wasn't a clear block


great pun


----------



## DarthBaggins

@lowfat Is it possibly coming from the fittings on the block, just a thought. Also more than likely there is a spot you're not seeing (very small) in a channel on the block or on a small inner/outer section of the jetplate. Almost would say install the other block and do a test by submerging the the sections separately to see which is the culprit


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Reversible Flow Question
> 
> I've been doing a bunch of reading recently about coloured dyes and how bad they are long term in your loop (especially the cool pearlescent ones). I've noticed that a lot of people are now adding drainage valves to the bottom of their loop to help empty the coolant for replacement. Great idea! (it has been about 10 years since I watercooled a pc and can't believe I didn't think of this back then!)
> 
> In relation to cleaning the loop from any buildup or particulates, I was wondering has anyone thought about adding (near the pump) a 4 way reversing flow valve?
> 
> I picture turning a lever and the flow direction around the loop is reversed. Reversing the flow would surely help to flush any gunk out of the waterblocks in less time than it takes to fill and drain the system with cleaning solution several times. Alternatively a reversible flow pump if that's a thing..
> 
> I'm really hoping to use coloured coolants with my build (because they look great) so I want to try to make it as easy as possible to maintain to prevent the common issues.
> 
> Alternatively, if you are using funky coloured coolants what tricks are you using to prevent buildup etc?
> 
> Cheers,
> -raven


I've been using PrimoChill liquid and it's been fine for months in 3 of my rigs. It's premixed predyed, etc. I have used others in the past and got bacteria buildup with some water treatment additive but these days I trust PrimoChill liquid only, pricey but it's a use it and forget it type liquid.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQBBARA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Edit: By the way look at my signature rig at the bottom of the front radiator it's got a double valve that can empty it quickly without turning my computer sideways and upside down including the 360 RAD.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Uh oh. So this has started happening after 3 days. This is the only block in the loop showing trouble. Every other block has been used in the loop for 14 months prior to this w/o issue. I've thoroughly cleaned every block and part. Radiators w/ hot water soak/shake/repeat/rinse method. Ever part that could be opened was washed w/ dish soap & toothbrush. Coolant is 100% distilled w/ no addictives.


Looks like your jet plate has gone bad. Chlorides in the water maybe?


----------



## wiretap

Was the hot water used to rinse it just tap water? Sometimes you can get contaminants (biological and chemical) that dries in the components, then when you fill it up with your distilled water, it will get worse over time. I had it happen once. I now rinse everything with distilled water, then fill it with distilled water + PT nuke biocide. It also could be due to galvanic corrosion if you're using dissimilar metals in your loop.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Uh oh. So this has started happening after 3 days. This is the only block in the loop showing trouble. Every other block has been used in the loop for 14 months prior to this w/o issue. I've thoroughly cleaned every block and part. Radiators w/ hot water soak/shake/repeat/rinse method. Ever part that could be opened was washed w/ dish soap & toothbrush. Coolant is 100% distilled w/ no addictives.


What going to happen if we do not do anything, especially with non-transparent block because we'll never know without opening it? Unless it eventually spread to reservoir...


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Does anyone have the measurements of this T fitting?
> 
> 
> Bitspower doesn't have the dimensions listed. Looking for width,height and length.


I know the pictures aren't that great but it measures 1" above the top portion and 3/4" from top to bottom.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What going to happen if we do not do anything, especially with non-transparent block because we'll never know without opening it? Unless it eventually spread to reservoir...


I have same looking stuff in my loop for about 6 months because its really hard to disamble my monoblock so i just left it as afaik nothing changed


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does a 10w DDC need a heatsink? I plan on putting my DDC pump in the PSU chamber of the air 240 which won't have any airflow.


I dunno if this has been answered yet... but imho If you want to keep that pump chugging for awhile, yes. Stock DDCs need airflow to pull the heat away from the motor. You're putting it into a place with next to no airflow so, at the minimum I would get the heatsink. This is why someone needs to make a waterblock for DDCs. Yes it would introduce the heat from the pump in another way but that heat is nominal comparatively with typical wattage output from other components. At this time however a heatsink and small fan setup would likely be the best option. I have something percolating in my brain for the DDC, but I need to formulate it and get it to manufacture.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Uh oh. So this has started happening after 3 days. This is the only block in the loop showing trouble. Every other block has been used in the loop for 14 months prior to this w/o issue. I've thoroughly cleaned every block and part. Radiators w/ hot water soak/shake/repeat/rinse method. Ever part that could be opened was washed w/ dish soap & toothbrush. Coolant is 100% distilled w/ no addictives.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like your jet plate has gone bad. Chlorides in the water maybe?
Click to expand...

Unless I am missing something I don't see any pitting on the plate. Maybe there is some on the back side, but I don't see anything on that nice silver plate on the port side. Ad aren't EK Jetplates stainless steel? Stainless can discolor but it would take a while in standing water for stainless to actually rust. lowfat has said it's a 24/7 system so there is no standing water in that loop afaik.









~Ceadder


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> I know the pictures aren't that great but it measures 1" above the top portion and 3/4" from top to bottom.


Perfect! Thank you


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> @lowfat
> Is it possibly coming from the fittings on the block, just a thought. Also more than likely there is a spot you're not seeing (very small) in a channel on the block or on a small inner/outer section of the jetplate. Almost would say install the other block and do a test by submerging the the sections separately to see which is the culprit


The fittings are nickel plated brass and look to be in perfect shape. The compression rings are powdercoated aluminum. However they don't come in contact w/ the water and that doesn't look like galvanic corrosion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks like your jet plate has gone bad. Chlorides in the water maybe?


How does stainless steel go bad? This block has been sitting in a box for most of its life. Before installing it a week or so ago, it hasn't seen 2 days of water in its life. The water is distilled. Same brand as I always buy. I've also used used water from two different jugs, bought 6 months apart.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno if this has been answered yet... but imho If you want to keep that pump chugging for awhile, yes. Stock DDCs need airflow to pull the heat away from the motor. You're putting it into a place with next to no airflow so, at the minimum I would get the heatsink. This is why someone needs to make a waterblock for DDCs. Yes it would introduce the heat from the pump in another way but that heat is nominal comparatively with typical wattage output from other components. At this time however a heatsink and small fan setup would likely be the best option. I have something percolating in my brain for the DDC, but I need to formulate it and get it to manufacture.


Water cooled DDC has been done before by someone on XtremeSystems maybe 5 years ago. He used a Koolance DDC heatsink body and mounted a a Koolance GPU-200 IIRC to the bottom. It wasn't pretty though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Unless I am missing something I don't see any pitting on the plate. Maybe there is some on the back side, but I don't see anything on that nice silver plate on the port side. Ad aren't EK Jetplates stainless steel? Stainless can discolor but it would take a while in standing water for stainless to actually rust. lowfat has said it's a 24/7 system so there is no standing water in that loop afaik.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


When I pulled it a few days ago I didn't see any staining or pitting on the jet plate. The only part of the block that had the residue was on the nickel plated portion of the block itself.

Tomorrow I'll throw in my older Supreme HF base and jet plate to see if the issue persists. Really hope not. I'll definitely post pics then.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have a feeling it's with the primary section of the block vs the jet plate


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How does stainless steel go bad? This block has been sitting in a box for most of its life. Before installing it a week or so ago, it hasn't seen 2 days of water in its life. The water is distilled. Same brand as I always buy. I've also used used water from two


Stainless rusts in the presence of Chlorides.

http://www.bssa.org.uk/faq.php?id=9


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Wishing you the many wonderful things that an Irish blessing will bring. Happiness, joy, love, and laughter, may your day be content and may you smile happily ever after! Happy St. Patrick's Day! And if it comes up a bit short here are some coupons to help you save you some cash! Also, check out some of the new offerings here at Performance-PCs.com. So grab a green beer or two and Enjoy the Holiday!
> 
> Spend $50 and get 7% off: "STPATTY16-7"
> Spend $250 and get 8% off: "STPATTY16-8"
> Spend $500 and get 10% off: "STPATTY16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from March 11th through March 17th 2016. One coupon per order please.)


Also, yeah stainless can stain. But if it's been 3 days (from what I saw) that's pretty surprising also.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Also, yeah stainless can stain. But if it's been 3 days (from what I saw) that's pretty surprising also.


I would say pretty bloody amazing tbf......


----------



## VSG

You know what else is amazing (sorry for the random change in topic)? Koolance changing their black QDCs for the better:





































The newer black QDCs have black paint on nickel plating as opposed to chromium plating before, and the parts in contact with the coolant are left nickel plated. So hopefully this will not have the issues that the other black QDCs are prone to, and I will find out myself if so.

There's been some changed to their QDCs altogether aside from this. For instance, take these newer nickel plated QDCs:














































So far so good yeah? Well, here's what the same units looked like from 1 year ago (old on bottom, new on top):




























The compression collar is different, but both the male and female QDC halves are shorter as well. There are some minor performance changes apparently, so that needs to be seen. On the plus side, they are all interchangeable with each other:










On top I have new collar, old male half, new female half and on the bottom I have old collar, new male half and old female half. I also got some QD4s for further comparison but that's a story for another place and another time.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You know what else is amazing (sorry for the random change in topic)? Koolance changing their black QDCs for the better:


Smaller QDCs and fixed black parts? I might just get some now. I'd never really cared for how big they were, especially in the smaller cases I use, but this changes the game some.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How does stainless steel go bad? This block has been sitting in a box for most of its life. Before installing it a week or so ago, it hasn't seen 2 days of water in its life. The water is distilled. Same brand as I always buy. I've also used used water from two
> 
> 
> 
> Stainless rusts in the presence of Chlorides.
> 
> http://www.bssa.org.uk/faq.php?id=9
Click to expand...

That it does. But in 3 days in a 24/7 operational state is unheard of without the presence of sodium. Unless lowfat has been getting knockoff distilled consisting of sea water.









I seem to recall that some of the early EN blocks had reported issues of staining. But I cannot be 100% about this since those came out back in 2012 or earlier. It's been quite awhile since we saw this issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Smaller QDCs and fixed black parts? I might just get some now. I'd never really cared for how big they were, especially in the smaller cases I use, but this changes the game some.


Shorter anyway. The new set with that exact combination (G1/4 male on one end, 1/2" x 3/4" compression fitting on the other) is ~8mm shorter. As far as the black ones go, I wouldn't say it's fixed without testing it. I will put them in a disposable loop using their own coolant so there's no reason for failure from their end, and see how they work out after a month or two of nonstop use with some disconnects every so often.


----------



## Kimir

Being shorter is not new...

Those pics are from my SMA8 build log. I have nickel ones now (with the bigger compression collar) as all the black ones are good for the trash (560€ of paper weight).


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Being shorter is not new...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those pics are from my SMA8 build log. I have nickel ones now (with the bigger compression collar) as all the black ones are good for the trash (560€ of paper weight).


Yeah, I was comparing against my ones from last year. I don't know when the switch happened.

Definitely a shame about your black QDCs though. I understand they aren't changing their warranty policy so it's still going to be risky. Open it up to more coolants, or atleast some popular ones, and that's a good job done.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah, I was comparing against my ones from last year. I don't know when the switch happened.
> 
> Definitely a shame about your black QDCs though. I understand they aren't changing their warranty policy so it's still going to be risky. Open it up to more coolants, or atleast some popular ones, and that's a good job done.


I swapped the black to nickel back in June 2015, so the bigger compression collar is also from back then. Being smaller was at the time I did my rig, so back to May 2014 or so.
What's really new is the nickel part inside the black ones. I just hope that they requested all shop to send back the previous version so that ppl that purchase those won't get the trouble (the warranty being null).
Personally, I won't touch any Koolance product ever again if I can find an alternative from another manufacturer (for QDC, maybe I'll try the CPC like EK use in their AIO).


----------



## VSG

The EK/CPC ones are one of the reasons I obtained these. At this time, the CPC ones are more expensive and harder to obtain unfortunately, let alone the lack of options for PC watercooling in terms of fittings and threads.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> This is an 'EN' block though so it was after the flaking issue. I have drained the loop and opened the block and was able to just wash it off w/ soap and water. However it is back 2 days later. The jet plate has no rust material on it.
> 
> This block hasn't actually seen more than 2 days of water before this but I do have another Supreme HF I can swap in to see if the issue continues.


Some of the early EN blocks did failed and I recall EK was collecting samples. Things really improved with the CSQ though i remember these had a dull finish and yours looks pretty shiny like the og models. Not sure if these "classic" EN units were somewhere between the old plating and the one used for csq.

If its something else, check if your other blocks have picked up some debris in the fins.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Some of the early EN blocks did failed and I recall EK was collecting samples. Things really improved with the CSQ though i remember these had a dull finish and yours looks pretty shiny like the og models. Not sure if these "classic" EN units were somewhere between the old plating and the one used for csq.
> 
> If its something else, check if your other blocks have picked up some debris in the fins.


This one was one of the last Supreme HFs made AFAIK. I bought it just after they were discontinued. No retailers had any in stock but Dazmode was able to special order one from EK w/ his order.

As for the Koolance black QDCs. IMO too little too late. They burned too many people. I tossed two sets of them a few years back. The way they handed it (and all their warranty claims) is rather pathetic.


----------



## gdubc

The sales here again.



I had been checking my email, waiting for this to finish up some stuff. My poor ol' doggie I've had for 16 yrs died today, so seeing this come may have helped me spend more than planned on some extra goodies, trying to cheer up a little.


----------



## Jokesterwild

lol amazing deals...


----------



## gdubc

It's not a lot but if you have a big order it's more than the typical ocn55 discount. Saved me all the shipping/insurance costs plus $30. Made me splurge on some eloops, lol.


----------



## wermad

anything from jayz twitter feed?









That was a sweet deal (no pun intended







).


----------



## Laithan

Mixing metals... even when using *ONLY* distilled water and PT Nuke..
I wanted to share some info I learned the hard way as a n00b.. Maybe it might help others.

I shared a little while back about some really bad corrosion issues in my loop. I thought it was *rust* but come to find out the chipset block was aluminum and polluted my entire loop. I was using straight distilled water and PT Nuke, that's it. Now I am building a new PC, cleaning everything as best as I can and replacing components as needed to "get this right" as I don't want to have to deal with this issue again. The aluminum chipset block from my Stiker II extreme was the root cause... but then it got worse..


^ The aluminum block and that's clear tubing... *not brown*..







. Happened very quickly too over just a couple weeks.

Here is where it got even worse. I have a Koolance COPPER 420 radiator and when I removed the fittings, sure enough there *WAS RUST* in the tubes.. sure looks like it to me.. ***... I pulled the rad immediately and going to add it to my recycle bin.







. They are advertised as having brass tubes but what about all the other components that come in contact with water? These pics are AFTER thoroughly flushing. Maybe it was just a thin coating and the aforementioned corrosion removed it?? I don't know..


Spoiler: Koolancw high-flow copper rad









Then there is *STEEL/STAINLESS STEEL*. I think we all know that steel can rust... stainless steel I think we assume *cannot* rust.. The fine print says otherwise...Even stainless steel can rust SEE HERE

The truth is, many of the advertised "COPPER" radiators and other components like flow meters aren't always forthcoming and honest with ALL of the metals within that come in contact with H2O!

As I looked at the "fine print" a bit more and scavenged forum info from the interwebnet I noticed that *a LOT of stuff* actually has steel components in them.. I am feeling like I am going to be chasing my tail here.









I found that when you are buying stuff for your loop, most often the metal that is usually listed in the description is only referring to a *portion* of the component so buyer beware. Usually the fins of the radiator for example are listed. _They do not always list *all* components that come in contact with water_!

This is the exact 420mm radiator I bought and it rusted... Notice what the description says.. COPPER.. specs say brass tubes.. why did they leave out the use of steel? Guess which company I will never buy from again?

This is the exact 420mm radiator I am *replacing* it with.

*Here is what Alphacool says about their radiators:*

"_Alphacool has been the company to introduce new developments and improvements in the radiator and water cooling sector generally many times over the last years.

Following this tradition, the new NexXxos radiators are the first to truly deserve the Full copper attribute. All main parts, not only the fins and channels, but the chambers are also made from copper. This brings an improvement in performance where other radiators are left without a chance. The material already gives an advantage over the competition and the inner structure is up to par with the competition. Separated chambers give the coolant a clear direction, allowing high flow rates which improve the performance of the whole cooling loop._"









Bravo to this company (and others) who are honest and up front!

Here is where I am not sure if I'm getting too detailed..Even small components in your loop may have mixed metals. Like this flow meter I have _and I am afraid to use again_ even though I would like to....
*Wetted Materials: Nickel-Plated Brass, Brass, Acrylic, Stainless Steel, POM Acetal, Plastic, SmCo5*

What I just learned told me that I shouldn't use that in my loop because it has stainless steel but maybe I'm getting a little bit too cautious here. Pumps probably have stainless steel in them too maybe?!?

Anyway I learned to do my homework.. I thought I had done mine but boy does that "fine print" make all the difference.
Hope this helps someone avoid my mistakes.


----------



## lowfat

In my case I am using all the equipment I've been using for the last 15 months minus the CPU block. No aluminum. Just brass, stainless steel, nickel, copper.

I disassembled the block this morning.





Back side of the jetplate.


Base plate.


And the base plate after a simple wash w/ Ultra Dawn and a toothbrush.


I've been water cooling for 12 years and besides this I've only encountered corrosion once. That was w/ the Koolance black QDCs two years ago.


----------



## Jokesterwild

I would think its pretty obvious that the cpu block has an issue/flaw. Seeing as the rest of your parts have been in use without issue previously. Very strange for sure!


----------



## VSG

@Laithan, the Alphacool rads aren't any more "full copper" than any other. Don't fall for the advertising, the end tanks and tubes are still brass. Some independent tests suggest lower copper content as well, but that's a matter of debate without any published results publicly available yet.

@lowfat, do you see anything in the coolant/reservoir? What about the GPU blocks?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Mixing metals... even when using *ONLY* distilled water and PT Nuke..
> I wanted to share some info I learned the hard way as a n00b.. Maybe it might help others.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I shared a little while back about some really bad corrosion issues in my loop. I thought it was *rust* but come to find out the chipset block was aluminum and polluted my entire loop. I was using straight distilled water and PT Nuke, that's it. Now I am building a new PC, cleaning everything as best as I can and replacing components as needed to "get this right" as I don't want to have to deal with this issue again. The aluminum chipset block from my Stiker II extreme was the root cause... but then it got worse..
> 
> 
> ^ The aluminum block and that's clear tubing... *not brown*..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Happened very quickly too over just a couple weeks.
> 
> Here is where it got even worse. I have a Koolance COPPER 420 radiator and when I removed the fittings, sure enough there *WAS RUST* in the tubes.. sure looks like it to me.. ***... I pulled the rad immediately and going to add it to my recycle bin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They are advertised as having brass tubes but what about all the other components that come in contact with water? These pics are AFTER thoroughly flushing. Maybe it was just a thin coating and the aforementioned corrosion removed it?? I don't know..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Koolancw high-flow copper rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then there is *STEEL/STAINLESS STEEL*. I think we all know that steel can rust... stainless steel I think we assume *cannot* rust.. The fine print says otherwise...Even stainless steel can rust SEE HERE
> 
> The truth is, many of the advertised "COPPER" radiators and other components like flow meters aren't always forthcoming and honest with ALL of the metals within that come in contact with H2O!
> 
> As I looked at the "fine print" a bit more and scavenged forum info from the interwebnet I noticed that *a LOT of stuff* actually has steel components in them.. I am feeling like I am going to be chasing my tail here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that when you are buying stuff for your loop, most often the metal that is usually listed in the description is only referring to a *portion* of the component so buyer beware. Usually the fins of the radiator for example are listed. _They do not always list *all* components that come in contact with water_!
> 
> This is the exact 420mm radiator I bought and it rusted... Notice what the description says.. COPPER.. specs say brass tubes.. why did they leave out the use of steel? Guess which company I will never buy from again?
> 
> This is the exact 420mm radiator I am *replacing* it with.
> 
> *Here is what Alphacool says about their radiators:*
> 
> "_Alphacool has been the company to introduce new developments and improvements in the radiator and water cooling sector generally many times over the last years.
> 
> Following this tradition, the new NexXxos radiators are the first to truly deserve the Full copper attribute. All main parts, not only the fins and channels, but the chambers are also made from copper. This brings an improvement in performance where other radiators are left without a chance. The material already gives an advantage over the competition and the inner structure is up to par with the competition. Separated chambers give the coolant a clear direction, allowing high flow rates which improve the performance of the whole cooling loop._"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bravo to this company (and others) who are honest and up front!
> 
> Here is where I am not sure if I'm getting too detailed..Even small components in your loop may have mixed metals. Like this flow meter I have _and I am afraid to use again_ even though I would like to....
> *Wetted Materials: Nickel-Plated Brass, Brass, Acrylic, Stainless Steel, POM Acetal, Plastic, SmCo5*
> 
> What I just learned told me that I shouldn't use that in my loop because it has stainless steel but maybe I'm getting a little bit too cautious here. Pumps probably have stainless steel in them too maybe?!?
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I learned to do my homework.. I thought I had done mine but boy does that "fine print" make all the difference.
> Hope this helps someone avoid my mistakes.


This information should be added o OP. +Rep.









~Ceadder









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> In my case I am using all the equipment I've been using for the last 15 months minus the CPU block. No aluminum. Just brass, stainless steel, nickel, copper.
> 
> I disassembled the block this morning.
> 
> Back side of the jetplate.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base plate.
> 
> 
> And the base plate after a simple wash w/ Ultra Dawn and a toothbrush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been water cooling for 12 years and besides this I've only encountered corrosion once. That was w/ the Koolance black QDCs two years ago.


Confirms my suspicion that the plate wasn't corroded. I'd say that your issue is likely a case of bad EN plating.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Pump cups on the D5 are SS,Watercool use SS for their solid tops,everybody uses SS for jet plates.

Safe to say SS is okay to use.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The EK/CPC ones are one of the reasons I obtained these. At this time, the CPC ones are more expensive and harder to obtain unfortunately, let alone the lack of options for PC watercooling in terms of fittings and threads.


I found out about the CPC brand before EK released their AIO, and I looked over their website and found that they in fact have a wide variety of QDC, it's their business! Not only the plastic ones used by EK. They have nickel ones, threaded and different size. But indeed, unfortunately they are expensive and basically not sold over here.
What we need is a shop to start carrying them and more user to try them. If there are more happy users of those, I'm sure more shops will have them in there catalog


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I found out about the CPC brand before EK released their AIO, and I looked over their website and found that they in fact have a wide variety of QDC, it's their business! Not only the plastic ones used by EK. They have nickel ones, threaded and different size. But indeed, unfortunately they are expensive and basically not sold over here.
> What we need is a shop to start carrying them and more user to try them. If there are more happy users of those, I'm sure more shops will have them in there catalog


Yeah, but look at the connector options- there are some barbs but that's about it in terms of PC watercooling. Either way, as you mentioned the lack of retail options and the higher price will be bigger detractors to sales in this area. Not that CPC cares


----------



## wermad

Is it me or do i see copper (in yellow) and especially in the fins???

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> In my case I am using all the equipment I've been using for the last 15 months minus the CPU block. No aluminum. Just brass, stainless steel, nickel, copper.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pump cups on the D5 are SS,Watercool use SS for their solid tops,everybody uses SS for jet plates.
> 
> Safe to say SS is okay to use.


Agreed. The plate on my CIVF block is stainless. I painted the exterior of it but with a stainless jetplate, I wasn't too worried about mixing SS with with copper and brass.

~Ceadder


----------



## Laithan

I'll keep my flowmeter with the SS then. My wounds became slightly smaller









Thanks gentlemen!


----------



## BWAS1000

Finally have ordered the parts for my first loop.
6 XSPC 3/8ID 5/8 OD compression fittings
10 feet Mayhems ultra clear 3/8ID 5/8 OD tubing.
Swiftech MCP355 /w XSPC Resovoir top
XSPC RX240 radiator
and I chanced something by going with the Bykski MTX-C Waterblock. Have heard good things, and am curious. If its good, it would make a nice entry block, and a good backup.secondary

Also, I know we don't really like the X20 750 pump, but what about the Smoke Everyday pump? (X20 420, if you see what I did there)


----------



## emsj86

I saw it mentioned the other day. So I figure I post that the data vac is on sale at Newegg for daily deals for 56usd


----------



## SteezyTN

Has anyone ever plasti-dipped fittings? I have red anodized primochill revolver fittings and I want to maybe do them black because I want to get rid of the white mayhems pastel, and add dye to make it red.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I think Primochill sells just the different colored tops if you want to just swap em.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I think Primochill sells just the different colored tops if you want to just swap em.


thatll be too expensive for 24 fittings total.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Has anyone ever plasti-dipped fittings? I have red anodized primochill revolver fittings and I want to maybe do them black because I want to get rid of the white mayhems pastel, and add dye to make it red.


Just spray paint them.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> @Laithan, the Alphacool rads aren't any more "full copper" than any other. Don't fall for the advertising, the end tanks and tubes are still brass.


Actually Alphacool's end tanks are full copper. The only bit that is brass are the threaded G1/4 port openings which are a simple soldered in brass inserts.

There is an old pic somewhere which shows one of their rads cut through with a hacksaw that someone posted which verified their 'all copper' claim.


----------



## wermad

This one?



tbh, how much gain do you get on the end tanks being copper vs brass, ???


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This one?
> 
> 
> 
> tbh, how much gain do you get on the end tanks being copper vs brass, ???


Nah the photo I had in mind was one where the rad was actually cut lengthwise... It may have been on a German forum that I saw the pic...??

Anyway the photos you posted pretty much point out the same.

Probably bugger all difference between the brass and copper end tanks... Just that copper is a lot more expensive so you wouldn't want to be paying for all copper when it isn't.....


----------



## r4ven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> except aren't their some blocks / rads that have designated in and out ports?


Yeah but the purpose was for cleaning / helping to remove buildup for short term usage only - not for cooling efficiency.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This one?
> 
> 
> 
> tbh, how much gain do you get on the end tanks being copper vs brass, ???


None whatsoever,its pure marketing.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> *Here is what Alphacool says about their radiators:*
> 
> "_Alphacool has been the company to introduce new developments and improvements in the radiator and water cooling sector generally many times over the last years.
> 
> Following this tradition, the new NexXxos radiators are the first to truly deserve the Full copper attribute. All main parts, not only the fins and channels, but the chambers are also made from copper. This brings an improvement in performance where other radiators are left without a chance. The material already gives an advantage over the competition and the inner structure is up to par with the competition. Separated chambers give the coolant a clear direction, allowing high flow rates which improve the performance of the whole cooling loop._"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bravo to this company (and others) who are honest and up front!


Not trying to make you paranoid or anything, but...
These radiators are all soldered together (the aquacomputer one excluded) which means each radiator not only has copper and brass wetted, but tin as well. Tin is almost as dissimilar to copper as aluminium is (copper is -0.35, aluminium -0.70 and solder -0.65)

This is why Martin had a rad fail on him after letting it sit for a while with water still inside of it. The solder was just eaten away.

I doubt that that Koolance had steel end-tanks. It's most likely just a thin coat due to your motherboard block.
If you want to make sure it is, and are throwing away the rad anyways, you could get some sanding paper and remove the outside paint from one of the end-tanks.
The clean metal will definitely give away what it is/was.
You could also grab a magnet if you have one on hand. If it's plain steel it'll stick.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Agreed. The plate on my CIVF block is stainless. I painted the exterior of it but with a stainless jetplate, I wasn't too worried about mixing SS with with copper and brass.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yup, stainless steel is perfectly safe. I'd link to more scientific proof of that but the source pretty much doesn't exist anymore, even in caches and archives.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The paranoia over dissimilar metals needs to be tempered with the knowledge that surface potential is the primary driving factor,not the actual metal itself.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Not trying to make you paranoid or anything, but...
> These radiators are all soldered together (the aquacomputer one excluded) which means each radiator not only has copper and brass wetted, but tin as well. Tin is almost as dissimilar to copper as aluminium is (copper is -0.35, aluminium -0.70 and solder -0.65)
> 
> This is why Martin had a rad fail on him after letting it sit for a while with water still inside of it. The solder was just eaten away.
> 
> I doubt that that Koolance had steel end-tanks. It's most likely just a thin coat due to your motherboard block.
> If you want to make sure it is, and are throwing away the rad anyways, you could get some sanding paper and remove the outside paint from one of the end-tanks.
> The clean metal will definitely give away what it is/was.
> You could also grab a magnet if you have one on hand. If it's plain steel it'll stick.


*Good idea* I have a magnet handy right now... I just tried and the magnet does _not_ stick to the area where the ports are. A nice way to identify the metal thanks for sharing this! *+REP* Sometimes the obvious isn't seen until someone slaps you in the head with it







. Just use a magnet







I didn't scratch off the paint though, not sure if I would have to really, it is a strong Neo magnet. Perhaps it isn't rust but boy does it look like it... it's "spreading" across the threads so a learning lesson either way I suppose.









I'm now feeling a little better about Koolance products and perhaps I was too harsh on their rad so I will apologize/retract that (but it sure does look like rust to me seeing how it 'scaled' across the threads and all) but my gut made me look deeper..and now the plot thickens lol. This is what Koolance says on their own product info.

Source
"_Koolance's product warranty does not cover the use of 3rd-party coolants, coolant additives, or corrosion. Koolance LIQ-702 or LIQ-705 coolants are strongly recommended to help avoid issues with mixed metals or biological growth. Additionally, do not use aluminum with bare (unplated) copper or bare (unplated) brass in the same system. Do not use silver with nickel in the same system."_

Don't use *Silver and Nickel.*..I hadn't heard/read that one yet.. Would this be a complete list of what to avoid?? Anyone know any other bad combos? We need a *compatibility matrix* or something for which metals should not be mixed. There seems to be too much russian roulette being played by consumers who are just trying to enjoy the fun of system building and performance seeking... we really shouldn't have to deal with this stuff ruining our systems and evaporating fun time...


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Don't use *Silver and Nickel.*..I hadn't heard/read that one yet.. Would this be a complete list of what to avoid?? Anyone know any other bad combos? We need a *compatibility matrix* or something for which metals should not be mixed. There seems to be too much russian roulette being played by consumers who are just trying to enjoy the fun of system building and performance seeking... we really shouldn't have to deal with this stuff ruining our systems and evaporating fun time...


google is your friend.
https://www.google.com/search?q=metal+galvanic+chart&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&channel=sb&biw=2560&bih=1337&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj7wfaX8r7LAhWFQCYKHXvLCpkQsAQIGw#imgrc=nTCe-eHreCebBM%3A

its been mentioned quite a few times. you just werent here for the discussions.


----------



## wermad

I know about silver and nickel first hand









Still running "naked", especially since my cpu and gpu blocks are *Koolance* ....


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> @lowfat, do you see anything in the coolant/reservoir? What about the GPU blocks?


Everything else in the loop is spotless. Including the stainless steel in the pump and the GPU block.

I don't thin the nickel was flaking. I've encountered that before on the EK SR-2 block I had and the flakes went everywhere. In this case I could wash the 'rust' off and the block looked pretty much new. I went ahead and installed the older jet plate and base. Lets hope it works this time.

Silver and nickel should be fine together. They are very close on the galvanic chart. Tin used to solder radiators and copper has a significantly wider gap than silver and nickel.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Silver and nickel should be fine together. They are very close on the galvanic chart. *Tin used to solder radiators and copper has a significantly wider gap than silver and nickel.*


That's what I would think too. Which is why I had no problems going with Monsoon silver coated fittings. I won't have to purchase another kill coil and since I only run distilled, there should be no issues since I do my coolant changes on a schedule instead of waiting longer than 6 months.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Everything else in the loop is spotless. Including the stainless steel in the pump and the GPU block.
> 
> I don't thin the nickel was flaking. I've encountered that before on the EK SR-2 block I had and the flakes went everywhere. In this case I could wash the 'rust' off and the block looked pretty much new. I went ahead and installed the older jet plate and base. Lets hope it works this time.
> 
> Silver and nickel should be fine together. They are very close on the galvanic chart. Tin used to solder radiators and copper has a significantly wider gap than silver and nickel.


Koolance doesn't cover silver, so I'm staying far away from it. So far, I have not seen any signs of issues with just plain distilled. Though you do get the minor tarnish on the koolance "black nickel" plugs. Though, at this point, I'm running all black Barrow.


----------



## Trestles126

Reworking my caselabs s8 build. Swapping all white bitspower rigid fittings to black. Ordered black charcol and silver ensourced sleeved cables, picked up a g1-8 5mm led plug for my aqua filter as well as a aqua flow meter. Ordered a replacement front panel with the 2 120 fan mounts as well as the front case cover to Match from caselabs. Ordered and recieved 10 darkside black on black gentle typhoon fans. Picked up a modify PCI cover in black. And am going to paint the sata board black.Trying to get rid of all the visible red. Gabriel's s3 grey matter build has my vote for best caselabs build I've seen. So any similarities are thanks to his build. Not sure if I'm going mayhem pastel white or am gonna try to get some grey in there.





As it sits now just never liked the white fittings early mistake not to replace them and the front window was just always a bit to much for me as well on the s8


----------



## MIGhunter

Someone here posted a link to some really awesome LED strips and where to buy them. Now I can't find it. Anyone know the link?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Reworking my caselabs s8 build. Swapping all white bitspower rigid fittings to black. Ordered black charcol and silver ensourced sleeved cables, picked up a g1-8 5mm led plug for my aqua filter as well as a aqua flow meter. Ordered a replacement front panel with the 2 120 fan mounts as well as the front case cover to Match from caselabs. Ordered and recieved 10 darkside black on black gentle typhoon fans. Picked up a modify PCI cover in black. And am going to paint the sata board black.Trying to get rid of all the visible red. Gabriel's s3 grey matter build has my vote for best caselabs build I've seen. So any similarities are thanks to his build. Not sure if I'm going mayhem pastel white or am gonna try to get some grey in there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it sits now just never liked the white fittings early mistake not to replace them and the front window was just always a bit to much for me as well on the s8


Sweet GTs I am







Thank you for the compliment and feel free to borrow any ideas mate.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Someone here posted a link to some really awesome LED strips and where to buy them. Now I can't find it. Anyone know the link?


Are you talking about the RGB ones from Amazon? I am using them and they are awesome and work perfectly with the built in header on ASUS aurora boards. Here is the link for those:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUUSPVW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Or maybe you are talking about the new CableMod wide beam ones:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/flex-lights/cablemod-widebeam-foam-adhesive-led-strip-rgb-60cm-30-leds.html


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*


Very nice bend


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Everything else in the loop is spotless. Including the stainless steel in the pump and the GPU block.
> 
> I don't thin the nickel was flaking. I've encountered that before on the EK SR-2 block I had and the flakes went everywhere. In this case I could wash the 'rust' off and the block looked pretty much new. I went ahead and installed the older jet plate and base. Lets hope it works this time.
> 
> Silver and nickel should be fine together. They are very close on the galvanic chart. Tin used to solder radiators and copper has a significantly wider gap than silver and nickel.


Silver and nickel are fine together,its silver and copper which are not.

Again,it comes down to surface potential over the actual metal,the chart that people often wheel out is often results in seawater and have no relevance.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Reworking my caselabs s8 build. Swapping all white bitspower rigid fittings to black. Ordered black charcol and silver ensourced sleeved cables, picked up a g1-8 5mm led plug for my aqua filter as well as a aqua flow meter. Ordered a replacement front panel with the 2 120 fan mounts as well as the front case cover to Match from caselabs. Ordered and recieved 10 darkside black on black gentle typhoon fans. Picked up a modify PCI cover in black. And am going to paint the sata board black.Trying to get rid of all the visible red. Gabriel's s3 grey matter build has my vote for best caselabs build I've seen. So any similarities are thanks to his build. Not sure if I'm going mayhem pastel white or am gonna try to get some grey in there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it sits now just never liked the white fittings early mistake not to replace them and the front window was just always a bit to much for me as well on the s8
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excellent rebuild plans.
Gabriel's S3 build is certainly a great inspiration as well.

Imo the GT's are still the best rad fans available.
First time I've seen someone replacing the front window on an S8 with the fan mount, that's the beauty of CL, so many options.

Looking forward to seeing the updates!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> thatll be too expensive for 24 fittings total.


Not as much as you think. Off there actually website I got the black and silver replacement tops for 10.99 (10pack)


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not as much as you think. Off there actually website I got the black and silver replacement tops for 10.99 (10pack)


PPCS sells them for $19.99. I won't be spending ~$40 for that. I'd rather spray paint them for $10 total.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> PPCS sells them for $19.99. I won't be spending ~$40 for that. I'd rather spray paint them for $10 total.


Use the Duplicolor MetalCast Anodized color. It is pretty sweet (if you are going black, not sure what you are looking for)

I am really tempted to spray my 45 and 90 degree fittings with the blue and leave the screw on caps chrome.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Use the Duplicolor MetalCast Anodized color. It is pretty sweet (if you are going black, not sure what you are looking for)
> 
> I am really tempted to spray my 45 and 90 degree fittings with the blue and leave the screw on caps chrome.


Im dubious about painting fittings,they are subject to too much pulling about and chip easily.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im dubious about painting fittings,they are subject to too much pulling about and chip easily.


I can totally agree with this though. Plasti-Dip is always an option. But since it is like rubber and thick you won't get the results you are looking for. Metalcast is really thin, and when done properly the shiny metal behind the color really makes it shine.

*edit* This is also why I said I was only going to paint my angle fittings. It is the shiniest part of the fittings, so naturally it would look the best. I was going to leave the screw on caps completely chrome, so I wouldn't have a chipping problem from turning the cap.


----------



## jodybdesigns

*delete post I hate when FF does that!*


----------



## xXFoWXx

My first custom loop. Bending tubes was trickier than i thought... But i'm pretty pleased with the result. I need some cable combs to straighten the pci-s cables but otherwise i think i'm done. Fun fact, the SoundBlaster X-card is painted silver and the leds are changed from red to white.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im dubious about painting fittings,they are subject to too much pulling about and chip easily.


I painted my fittings, both EK and Bitspower. Put some primer on before and you're fine. How many times do you fiddle with them after they're installed?
I'm actually adding my a EK Titan-X block and a 360 radiator tomorrow, together with quite some fittings that I will paint from black into a gun metal grey.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXFoWXx*
> 
> My first custom loop. Bending tubes was trickier than i thought... But i'm pretty pleased with the result. I need some cable combs to straighten the pci-s cables but otherwise i think i'm done. Fun fact, the SoundBlaster X-card is painted silver. *snip*


Nice job on the card


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Alright, Got the rad mounts in for the Pedestal. Also a 120mm Fan mount for the Ped as well.





TCO


----------



## brazilianloser

Well not crazy different but a little different. Changed pump/res location, changed top rad to intake, moved the drain to be part of the run instead of just using another port on the pump, added a new cpu block and actually using the proper input of the block which apparently i wasn't in my previous block for some unknown reason.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well not crazy different but a little different. Changed pump/res location, changed top rad to intake, moved the drain to be part of the run instead of just using another port on the pump, added a new cpu block and actually using the proper input of the block which apparently i wasn't in my previous block for some unknown reason.


That turned out really great man


----------



## FXformat

@brazilianloser that's very clean mate. The bends look smooth, when are you stepping up to 16mm? ?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> That turned out really great man


Thank you sir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> @brazilianloser that's very clean mate. The bends look smooth, when are you stepping up to 16mm? ?


Yeah not fully pleased with the one coming out of the cpu into the top rad but I ran out of tube







.
Was actually debating on doing that during this rebuild process but after seeing that it would cost me quite a bit and I still had several sticks of tube sitting around I just couldn't get around to justify it at this point. But when I decide to get a second 980Ti probably will change the tube yet again and improve the loop if I can think of any improvements from now until then.
Thanks.


----------



## xXFoWXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice job on the card


Thanks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well not crazy different but a little different. Changed pump/res location, changed top rad to intake, moved the drain to be part of the run instead of just using another port on the pump, added a new cpu block and actually using the proper input of the block which apparently i wasn't in my previous block for some unknown reason.


Wow! Nice, i like the bends.


----------



## Trestles126

Any basic recommendations on flushing out the rest of the ek blood red fluid? I got most of it out and planned on running a gallon or two of distilled water thru the loop. Until it came out clear. I plan on doing mayhems pastel white and dying it grey so worrying about it being spot on white isn't my concern. It it don't work out I may just throw blood red back into it.


----------



## RnRollie

depending on the "base" ingredient of the red dye... you can run a distilled + a pinch of Citric Acid for a few hours to "clean out" the red residue... it might or might not work. That Red dye is one of the hardest to get rid off and adding White might turn the loop pink... and not sexy Powerranger pink


----------



## Ukaz

Just a question ! Can I put a XRES Revo 140 d5 PWM combo at the back of the enthoo primo (near the pci slots) vertically with the bracket they provide ?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> Just a question ! Can I put a XRES Revo 140 d5 PWM combo at the back of the enthoo primo (near the pci slots) vertically with the bracket they provide ?


Not sure, i think you can... best ask the question here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/0_50


----------



## Trestles126

Ya it actually didn't stain just a slight bit of liquid left over. It was ek premix blood red. I'm not dead set on not using it again so if I can't get it out I'll be ok thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> depending on the "base" ingredient of the red dye... you can run a distilled + a pinch of Citric Acid for a few hours to "clean out" the red residue... it might or might not work. That Red dye is one of the hardest to get rid off and adding White might turn the loop pink... and not sexy Powerranger pink


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXFoWXx*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow! Nice, i like the bends.


Thank you sir.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Thank you sir.
> Yeah not fully pleased with the one coming out of the cpu into the top rad but I ran out of tube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Was actually debating on doing that during this rebuild process but after seeing that it would cost me quite a bit and I still had several sticks of tube sitting around I just couldn't get around to justify it at this point. But when I decide to get a second 980Ti probably will change the tube yet again and improve the loop if I can think of any improvements from now until then.
> Thanks.


The tubing didn't cost me that much, you can get them on amazon for 7.99 shipped for 7 feet of it. The fittings you can get from Barrow for 4.99 a piece, all in all not too bad. I made the mistake of buying all expensive bitspower stuff, but next time around i'll be doing the Barrow fittings.

Did you sleeve the cables yourself? Looks very clean


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> The tubing didn't cost me that much, you can get them on amazon for 7.99 shipped for 7 feet of it. The fittings you can get from Barrow for 4.99 a piece, all in all not too bad. I made the mistake of buying all expensive bitspower stuff, but next time around i'll be doing the Barrow fittings.
> 
> Did you sleeve the cables yourself? Looks very clean


Not going to lie man... But I never heard of Barrow fittings until a week or two back while I was debating on upgrading or not. Thanks for the recommendation. Its a bit too late now but next go around will definitely go for it and will look into Barrow stuff since it seems to be quite popular lately here.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Not going to lie man... But I never heard of Barrow fittings until a week or two back while I was debating on upgrading or not. Thanks for the recommendation. Its a bit too late now but next go around will definitely go for it and will look into Barrow stuff since it seems to be quite popular lately here.


A month ago we were getting shunned for using Barrow fittings because they are Bitspower knockoffs. Then I heard they all come from the same exact factory sold under different names. Now everyone is jumping on the Barrow bandwagon. I am happily using Barrow fittings and I love them. But I am not going down this road again. I love them, and you will love them too.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> A month ago we were getting shunned for using Barrow fittings because they are Bitspower knockoffs. Then I heard they all come from the same exact factory sold under different names. I am happily using Barrow fittings and I love them. But I am not going down this road again. I love them, and you will love them too.


Yeah I was wondering why they looked so similar too when I first saw posts about it here... But yeah definitely going for them if their prices stay so far below Bitspower's back breaking prices.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Yeah I was wondering why they looked so similar too when I first saw posts about it here... But yeah definitely going for them if their prices stay so far below Bitspower's back breaking prices.


Exactly why I chose Barrow. This was my first big loop and I am a novice. I am not loaded with cash either. I was lucky enough to afford the Barrow fittings. There is no way I could afford Bitspower, I would just have to keep the ugly barbs. Bitspower is simply $$$ and that's it. Its a label. They are mad (and everyone else), there is a new supplier for fittings in town and it drives everybody insane. Pretty sure I am safe to say they are here to stay and they aren't going anywhere.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> A month ago we were getting shunned for using Barrow fittings because they are Bitspower knockoffs. Then I heard they all come from the same exact factory sold under different names. Now everyone is jumping on the Barrow bandwagon. I am happily using Barrow fittings and I love them. But I am not going down this road again. I love them, and you will love them too.


Who was shunning you for using Barrow fittings? Its not like the fact that they're bitspower fittings sold under another brand is a recent discovery.


----------



## wermad

It's been more then that but there are still a few members who voice displeasure with Barrow (and Tt, and so on and so forth...). I tried to rally an owners thread but the consensus among users is that it's still too hostile and they don't want to deal with the haters. So, we've thread jack someone's else's thread where they asked about them a year or so ago.


----------



## DaClownie

wermad is cultivating a secret society.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It's been more then that but there are still a few members who voice displeasure with Barrow (and Tt, and so on and so forth...). I tried to rally an owners thread but the consensus among users is that it's still too hostile and they don't want to deal with the haters. So, we've thread jack someone's else's thread where they asked about them a year or so ago.


I have never seen hostility nor displeasure about Barrow in this thread. Please link?
Tt,hell yes. Alphacool,hell yes but Barrow?
No.


----------



## wermad

It's happened. it's hard to keep track of, but it's waned down a bit.

Edit: ok...im reading posts all wrong now (







).

Comment was in general and not spefic to one person. I usually sit back and let the comments fly as there's no point in removing yourself as a spector in these shows. I have too many things going on right now in my life, to flame war in the forums


----------



## fast_fate

Nothing wrong with Barrow fittings, I've been happily using them for a few years








I will say that the rotaries are looser than Bitspower, so I do not believe that they are identical, though might just be the internal O'Rings are different.
Bitspower rotaries still the best option IMHO.

In say that though


Spoiler: All Barrow Rotaries used here and Rocket Science 1/2







SuperCharged 351 also has Barrow


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: All Barrow Rotaries used here and Rocket Science 1/2


Pretty certain NSFW pictures are not allowed here!


----------



## mouacyk




----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Nothing wrong with Barrow fittings, I've been happily using them for a few years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will say that the rotaries are looser than Bitspower, so I do not believe that they are identical, though might just be the internal O'Rings are different.
> Bitspower rotaries still the best option IMHO.
> 
> In say that though


Talking about fittings, how is that 2p build going?


----------



## wermad

Barrow hardtube fittings with Bitspower acrylic tube. I like em


----------



## Ceadderman

I cannot justify using Barrows anything. Not even with my frugal budget. I'd rather "pay the man" for what I know to be quality than pay his competitor who lives in China and is doing business with his manufacturer. But thats just me. I ain't judgin nobody for doing so but that's me.

I can't blame a start up too much for doing so. I do blame Tt for doing so because they were in the business and have been so for a very long time. They know better because they wouldn't like it if someone did it to them.

~Ceadder


----------



## jodybdesigns

As the thread went on I don't really see a need to justify some of us were shunned for using these brands. You don't have to call us out and say we are shunned. But when those of us who speak here, using these parts, our words go unnoticed. It's happened to me several times. But I am used to that kind of thing so words going unnoticed has no effect or I would have said something 211 posts ago. I am still here to help others, and that is why I am still here. I don't care if you like me or not, I am still going to help those in need.


----------



## mouacyk

With these new competitors its important to keep customer service in mind. Sure I can buy an EK knockoff cpu block for $30 but on the off chance that the block malfunctions earlier than expected, where is the accountability? In a $2500+ rig, I'll take accountability over the alternative. Plus there is more reason to keep the reps around here.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I cannot justify using Barrows anything. Not even with my frugal budget. I'd rather "pay the man" for what I know to be quality than pay his competitor who lives in China and is doing business with his manufacturer. But thats just me. I ain't judgin nobody for doing so but that's me.
> 
> I can't blame a start up too much for doing so. I do blame Tt for doing so because they were in the business and have been so for a very long time. They know better because they wouldn't like it if someone did it to them.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well there are 2 things that could be going on here.

Either Bitspower is actually designing the fittings, and their manufacturer is selling a "similar" design to Barrow.

Or there's an OEM that's both designing and manufacturing the fittings and selling those to both Barrow and Bitspower.

In the second situation barrow isn't ripping off anything and they're just selling at a lower profit margin. Would be great if anyone could confirm whats going on.

And with Tt we know for sure they're ripping off products.


----------



## wermad

I saved a bunch of cash with Barrow that it allowed me get a new high end board. Some call it knock offs, I call it smart shopping. Now the more complex the item, the more weary I would be tbh. But you can't get as simple as fittings so I highly recommend Barrow fittings. The D5 top and dress up kit are very good too (along with the attachable tube reservoir.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I cannot justify using Barrows anything. Not even with my frugal budget. I'd rather "pay the man" for what I know to be quality than pay his competitor who lives in China and is doing business with his manufacturer. But thats just me. I ain't judgin nobody for doing so but that's me.
> 
> I can't blame a start up too much for doing so. I do blame Tt for doing so because they were in the business and have been so for a very long time. They know better because they wouldn't like it if someone did it to them.
> 
> ~Ceadder


The ironic part is your assumption that they are in fact less quality than their competitor. and on top of of it never even used a barrow product as you have stated you won't support them.


----------



## FXformat

I have absolutely no problem with using fittings that are no name brand. As long as it fits tight and doesn't leak, i have a barrow fitting here and it's actually very nice...u can't tell between this and bitspower until you look at the logo.

For stuff like water pump and water block, i'm scared to use chinese brand ones...but for fittings, tubes, reservoirs, valves...i don't mind.

We need more competition, so that bitspower doesn't charge me $15 for a freaking elbowwwww! And performance PCS charge me another $15 to ship a few small things..









I'm done with that, i work hard for my money, time to be smarter with it.


----------



## mouacyk

Having someone be responsive and accountable when something unexpected happens is smart too especially when easily $2500+ is at stake.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Having someone be responsive and accountable when something unexpected happens is smart too especially when easily $2500+ is at stake.


AFAIK, the guys who sell most (if not all) of the Barrow parts in the US are based in Texas (I think) and are very accountable for the things they sell. I've always had a fantastic experience dealing with them.


----------



## pc-illiterate

its stupid talking about accountability with fittings. if youve had your water/coolant in your loop long enough to become electrically conductive and your bitspower fitting springs a leak and it ruins every piece of hardware you have, do you think bitspower is going to do anything besides replace the faulty fitting? if you think accountability means anything in an 'at your own risk' hobby, i have your choice of 3 bridges to sell you.


----------



## gdubc

I don't really know what's what with Barrow, but I do know there are some manufacturers out there still not happy with the way the Barrow stuff is so similar to their own. Monsoon wasn't too pleased with the bending kit clone Barrow put out for instance.


----------



## Costas

Barrow fittings have been around for some time now although they have been a tad difficult to source reliably for most people. I suspect that retailers may not be all that too keen to stock them if they risk losing other more common/popular lines.

There is probably a lot more occurring in the background at a wholesaler/distributor level that we are not aware of ie reluctance of offering Barrow products in general as they might be considered a cheaper blatant copy etc.??

One drawback I found with them is that their range of fittings is quite limited as compared to Bitspower so for some builds they are really not an option.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> AFAIK, the guys who sell most (if not all) of the Barrow parts in the US are based in Texas (I think) and are very accountable for the things they sell. I've always had a fantastic experience dealing with them.


It's a big warehouse/import business based here in Houston, and they sell a ton of Chinese items- not just watercooling/Barrow.


----------



## nyk20z3

EK AMD Nano water block mounted -


----------



## wermad

Tiny powah









Why the gloves btw? Avoid fingerprints?


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tiny powah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why the gloves btw? Avoid fingerprints?


avoid the possibility of static electricity (most likely)


----------



## emsj86




----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tiny powah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why the gloves btw? Avoid fingerprints?


To avoid fingerprints correct.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I cannot justify using Barrows anything. Not even with my frugal budget. I'd rather "pay the man" for what I know to be quality than pay his competitor who lives in China and is doing business with his manufacturer. But thats just me. I ain't judgin nobody for doing so but that's me.
> 
> I can't blame a start up too much for doing so. I do blame Tt for doing so because they were in the business and have been so for a very long time. They know better because they wouldn't like it if someone did it to them.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there are 2 things that could be going on here.
> 
> Either Bitspower is actually designing the fittings, and their manufacturer is selling a "similar" design to Barrow.
> 
> Or there's an OEM that's both designing and manufacturing the fittings and selling those to both Barrow and Bitspower.
> 
> In the second situation barrow *isn't ripping off anything* and they're just selling at a lower profit margin. Would be great if anyone could confirm whats going on.
> 
> And with Tt we know for sure they're ripping off products.
Click to expand...

Well then you may wish to check out the site selling Barrows products on eBay. They straight ripped off FrozenQ. So for me Barrows is no go.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

2 gallons of distilled and it's clear. Trying to decide if I wanna paint the blades grey or the casing of the fan grey.... Shoulda gone with black sparkle fittings blacks nice but a lil bland and the 90s aren't the best finish oh well!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well then you may wish to check out the site selling Barrows products on eBay. They straight ripped off FrozenQ. *So for me Barrows is no go*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I would rather pay a couple bucks for for BIts. Every Day of the Week.

TCO


----------



## wermad

The crux for some, is that bp isn't only a couple of bucks more, it's usually two-times the cost of comparible Barrow. I spent about six hundred this last round and i couldn't justify twelve hundred for the same end result using bp. But as the saying goes: to each their own. Some folks prefer to shell out more, while others prefer to watch their pennies. I'm the later (obviously) and in doing so, I can shift my budget around to other areas.


----------



## Laine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The crux for some, is that bp isn't only a couple of bucks more, it's usually two-times the cost of comparible Barrow. I spent about six hundred this last round and i couldn't justify twelve hundred for the same end result using bp. But as the saying goes: to each their own. Some folks prefer to shell out more, while others prefer to watch their pennies. I'm the later (obviously) and in doing so, I can shift my budget around to other areas.


I can't speak for this market, but locally over here, BP have been stacking up over the years with more and more enthusiasts wanting a new theme every build. That means second hand BP's are fairly easy to find and at half the MSRP, often lower.

Not a lot have changed in the 7 years I've been buying BP's (and more recently Barrow), second hand could be worth looking into. Must be tons out there by now.


----------



## wermad

I have, and i just recently sold bp, xspc, and alphacool fittings. Even with a slight mark up, the bp's sold. I too paid a bit more for these bp compared to other brands when i got them last year. My concern is that I'm not going to find a seller with enough used bp fittings for the amount I needed to save that extra bit of money. Otherwise, it will lead to the exact same setup as before (a mix of bp, xspc, alphacool, and others). Its rare to find a seller selling a ton of Bp fittings at once, but I have seen a few large batches on ebay and they do make quite a bit in the end. I wanted all new hardline fittings and for my budget, Barrow fit the bill (figuratively







). From my personal experience, BP does have extremely good compression and rotary fittings. If your budget can stretch to them and you're not seeking a ton like me, it is worth a few extra bucks vs the other brands. Come time new, its a whole new ball-park, especially since we're at the mercy of ppcs.com, ahem, shipping "rates" in the US (I know this is insignificant compared to the international shipping others pay through them as well).

Most of the hardware i buy is pre-owned and as long is its functional, I'm good. If I find a great deal on new, I'll go for it. Like my new mb, it was on sale for less then the msrp most shops were asking. Same for the two Swiftech D5's I bought off ebay. So this is the same story with Barrow, and when you crunch the #s, its about 50-60% the cost of buying new Bitspower from performance-pcs.com.

Give it time, and more Barrows (and others like them) will eventually make it to the used market where you can further find more deals such as you find for used BP, EK, Alphacool, XSPC, etc. Barrow isn't too new or too old right now to find a large pre-own market. And just to cover the old cliche some members keep up for some odd reason, no I'm not planning to sell my rig and flood ocn with used Barrow hard line fittings









Btw: these are the Barrow parts I got from aliexpress.com:

-34x straight 12mm hardline fittings
-12x 90° rotary 12mm hardline fittings
-28x dual 90° 12mm hardline fittings
-60x plugs
-5x bulkheads
-2x anti vortex
-1x m-m adapter
-1x visual flow indicator
-1x valve
-2x D5 acetal tops
-2x D5 housing kits
-2x D5 210mm tube reservoirs

As I mentioned before, if you have the funds and want them, Bitspower is the best money can buy


----------



## Laine

No need to flood the market with second hand Barrow, just flood my inbox instead, haha! No but seriously, lots of great alternatives out there now.

This is what my Barrows are going on, some what of an "hipster" watercooling build. For some reason I've got this obsession with parts no longer being made and difficult to trace down.

AnfiTec CPU-block, MIPS for the south bridge, Watercool backplate and fullcover for the GTX970. The rest is mainly AquaComputer.



Really excited for some Swiftech and Koolance action in a later build. Always been hard to find where I am geographically.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I have absolutely no problem with using fittings that are no name brand. As long as it fits tight and doesn't leak, i have a barrow fitting here and it's actually very nice...u can't tell between this and bitspower until you look at the logo.
> 
> For stuff like water pump and water block, i'm scared to use chinese brand ones...but for fittings, tubes, reservoirs, valves...i don't mind.
> 
> We need more competition, so that bitspower doesn't charge me $15 for a freaking elbowwwww! And performance PCS charge me another $15 to ship a few small things..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm done with that, i work hard for my money, time to be smarter with it.


I agree big time, I don't mind to pay for quality but at the point that both have the same quality you begin to look at value. I love PPCS they have taken care of me on quite a few orders Chris is awesome but my downside is just the shipping time and sometimes cost. If I would have known the barrow fittings could be found on Newegg and it seems amazon now I would have been all over them for my build. The 3 o-ring design vs 2 seems like a win win plus the difference in cost. I would love to add up all I have in bitspower and compare to barrow cost wise. They seem very nice and no one has had a compliant about either of the brands so that is a plus. If I could do my whole build over i would run Barrow just for the cost difference and now being able to find more available a few places.


----------



## Trestles126

Any one have any non stain mayhems red dye around can't find it anywhere in the states I can PayPal you really only need a drop or 2


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Any one have any non stain mayhems red dye around can't find it anywhere in the states I can PayPal you really only need a drop or 2


Red dyes stain. It's unavoidable.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Ya I know just trying to keep the products the same... Making pastel grey have the mayhems white pastel and mayhems non stain green dye wanted to keep it the same.

As for red I actually had great success with eks blood red just flushed loop and no blocks res or tube stain !


----------



## Trestles126

Still gonna use the Mayhems blitz cleaner


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Any one have any non stain mayhems red dye around can't find it anywhere in the states I can PayPal you really only need a drop or 2


I ordered some from Mayhems direct, and unlike Ppcs they don't rape you on the shipping. I think I paid $5 or so for an order with 8 varied bottles of dye. (The shipping was the same for 1 bottle, I wanted just the red as well initially, lol)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> No need to flood the market with second hand Barrow, just flood my inbox instead, haha! No but seriously, lots of great alternatives out there now.
> 
> This is what my Barrows are going on, some what of an "hipster" watercooling build. For some reason I've got this obsession with parts no longer being made and difficult to trace down.
> 
> AnfiTec CPU-block, MIPS for the south bridge, Watercool backplate and fullcover for the GTX970. The rest is mainly AquaComputer.
> 
> 
> 
> Really excited for some Swiftech and Koolance action in a later build. Always been hard to find where I am geographically.


Always fond of the efforts of AnfiTec doing mb blocks EK, BP, and XSPC would skip. Looks tasty so far


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> No need to flood the market with second hand Barrow, just flood my inbox instead, haha! No but seriously, lots of great alternatives out there now.
> 
> This is what my Barrows are going on, some what of an "hipster" watercooling build. For some reason I've got this obsession with parts no longer being made and difficult to trace down.
> 
> AnfiTec CPU-block, MIPS for the south bridge, Watercool backplate and fullcover for the GTX970. The rest is mainly AquaComputer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really excited for some Swiftech and Koolance action in a later build. Always been hard to find where I am geographically.


Build log¿?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> No need to flood the market with second hand Barrow, just flood my inbox instead, haha! No but seriously, lots of great alternatives out there now.
> 
> This is what my Barrows are going on, some what of an "hipster" watercooling build. For some reason I've got this obsession with parts no longer being made and difficult to trace down.
> 
> AnfiTec CPU-block, MIPS for the south bridge, Watercool backplate and fullcover for the GTX970. The rest is mainly AquaComputer.
> 
> 
> 
> Really excited for some Swiftech and Koolance action in a later build. Always been hard to find where I am geographically.


Second the want for a build log, that'd fit great in a sff case with one of those mini alphacool res/pump combos


----------



## Laine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> Build log¿?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Second the want for a build log, that'd fit great in a sff case with one of those mini alphacool res/pump combos


Only have it in swedish right now, but at least there are pictures.

*External link:*
http://www.sweclockers.com/forum/trad/1397070-laines-noir


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Only have it in swedish right now, but at least there are pictures.
> 
> *External link:*
> http://www.sweclockers.com/forum/trad/1397070-laines-noir


Beautiful, thank you


----------



## lowfat

I'll continue to chose Barrow due to them not having a huge ugly logo on the fittings. If BP would indent their logo instead of their eyesore of a gold/silver huge dragon, then I'd have no problem buying them.


----------



## mus1mus

Trouble is, if BP makes the logo smaller, they'll be further fired up by the "SEAHORSE" logo critique.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'll continue to chose Barrow due to them not having a huge ugly logo on the fittings. If BP would indent their logo instead of their eyesore of a gold/silver huge dragon, then I'd have no problem buying them.


You haven't seen the new Barrow Smoke dragon logo, have you? It's on packaging at the moment, but if it comes on their fittings as well that would be very ironic.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You haven't seen the new Barrow Smoke dragon logo, have you? It's on packaging at the moment, but if it comes on their fittings as well that would be very ironic.


I was very mad to recieve some "special edition" stop plugs with the darned logos, when I wanted plain white - lol

you've got to laught about it really - unless you are Bitspower that is


----------



## wermad

It's already on their "premium" plugs:



The name is on my valve and bulkheads.

Edit:







by ff (Damm stupid 3g







)


----------



## Benjiw

Has anyone modded the dial on the D5 pump like the adjuster dial so you can turn it by hand instead of a screw driver or something?

It's something that has always bugged me.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It's already on their "premium" plugs:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The name is on my valve and bulkheads.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by ff (Damm stupid 3g
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I thought these were the fancy ones


----------



## BWAS1000

Just waiting on my Tubing, Fittings and Block. Got the pump/rest and Radiator today


----------



## wermad

I've seen both names on aliexpress, same thing though









I opted for the black slotted fittings for less (since I needed 60









Edit: lol, those are too corney imho...







. Call them "blingy"


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've seen both names on aliexpress, same thing though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted for the black slotted fittings for less (since I needed 60


*EDIT:* I ordered plain white in preference over the slotted, but received the logo version as pictured above









I think I would shock even you with my latest order


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'll continue to chose Barrow due to them not having a huge ugly logo on the fittings. If BP would indent their logo instead of their eyesore of a gold/silver huge dragon, then I'd have no problem buying them.


Interesting outlook.

TCO


----------



## willemdoom

Where can us Europeans buy Barrow?


----------



## BWAS1000

I ended up getting XSPC Compressions for 3.99 each. Are Barrow fittings that much cheaper?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Where can us Europeans buy Barrow?


AliExpress - search for Barrow fittings.
WinfMOD is a trusted seller
contact them for a discount shipping rate once you have organized your order.

and he will usually price match other sellers, so pays to look around


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Where can us Europeans buy Barrow?


Guy on the uk version of the bay sells loads and ships to other countries. Dispatches stuff very quickly and has most the fittings. Just type in barrow fittings and you should find it.


----------



## VSG

lol those stop plugs made me laugh. I thought the "gemstones" ones were bad, but the "let's call it not Bitspower" dragon logo on the "let's call it not Bitspower" fittings is hilarious


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol those stop plugs made me laugh. I thought the "gemstones" ones were bad, but the "let's call it not Bitspower" dragon logo on the "let's call it not Bitspower" fittings is hilarious


I too thought it was a dragon. The icon on the package, I called a smoke dragon ... but, apparently, it is a seahorse.

If you scroll up to wermad's post, you can clearly see it is a seahorse.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I keep on typing seahouse ... instead of seahorse.


----------



## lowfat

Wow. I guess I won't be buying Barrow either if that logo makes it to the rest of their fittings. Good thing I have enough 90 degree angle fittings that I shouldn't have to buy any for a while.


----------



## Trestles126

Probably couldn't have done that again decided to pull all screws and hope for the best worked like a charm. Easy swap out.

Started painting the face of the gt blades made a simple cover with a plumbers tape cap and some cardboard. It's Matte black and matches the texture and finish of the GTs perfect. Debating to pull them apart and paint the body's grey or not... Decisions


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I ended up getting XSPC Compressions for 3.99 each. Are Barrow fittings that much cheaper?


That's actually a good deal I may have picked up the XSPC fittings if they had been cheaper than Barrow. But they weren't. I had ordered 4x 90 degree fittings and 4x 45 degree fittings in black and they had ran out of stock. So Jack at Pccoolings gave me a discount and overnight shipping, so I ended up ordering chrome fittings.

I ended up paying $3.08 a fitting, $4.30 for each 90 degree, and $4.30 for each 45 degree with my supplied discount (he sent me an invoice and canceled my old order). Plus the overnight shipping. Run that. I will be dealing with Jack and Pccoolings a loooot more after that exceptional customer service.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I too thought it was a dragon. The icon on the package, I called a smoke dragon ... but, apparently, it is a seahorse.
> 
> If you scroll up to wermad's post, you can clearly see it is a seahorse.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I keep on typing seahouse ... instead of seahorse.


Yeah I saw it, but let's not kid ourselves. Barrow clearly knows there will be comparisons made.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Where can us Europeans buy Barrow?


Best place is mizu cooling at ebay.co.uk


----------



## shremi

So this one is a bit of a head scratcher.....

I have used hard tubing before and e22 + bitspower was the most recommended combination by users here .... so i am in the process of changing my rig to a new case and so i ordered some extra e22 since i will need to make some new bends .... here is the weird thing the new tube has a much thicker wall that makes impossible for the counter part of the fitting to go inside the tube .... called ppcs since i thought at first that it was maybe a wrong product but they assure me that it is the e22 12/10mm tube ..... So whats wrong here ?? Are the new batches of the e22 tube not compatible with the bitspower fittings ??? i will try to post a few more pictures later on when i get home but wanted to know your opinion on what is the best way to proceed with this issue ....

Thanks

Shremi


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I saw it, but let's not kid ourselves. Barrow clearly knows there will be comparisons made.


That's ok I'll just buy Darkside fittings which are from the exact same manufacture without any logos.... so far.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I too thought it was a dragon. The icon on the package, I called a smoke dragon ... but, apparently, it is a seahorse.
> 
> If you scroll up to wermad's post, you can clearly see it is a seahorse.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I keep on typing seahouse ... instead of seahorse.


It's a P'd Off looking seahorse


----------



## muzammil84

first time custom loop attempt.
any comments welcome


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> first time custom loop attempt.
> any comments welcome
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wow, thats awesome, specs?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> wow, thats awesome, specs?


nothing flashy really

i5 4670k @ 4.4 GHZ

Asus Gryphon Z97 Armor Edition(armor painted white)

HyperX Fury white 2x 8Gb 1866 MHz

Palit GTX 970 reference @ 1278 MHz

XSPC Raystorm v3 cpu block(aluminium bracket painted white + white faceplate)

XSPC gtx970 gpu block

XSPC D5 tank reservoir V3

XSPC EX240 rad white

XSPC RX120 rad

EKWB EX240 rad

all fittings by Barrow

Mayhems clear flexible tubing

Mayhems Pastel UV white coolant

Samsung 850 Evo 250Gb SSD

WD Black 1Tb HDD

Evga 650G PSU

Fractal Design Define R5 white windowed

Enermax fans all over the place.

thx


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I too thought it was a dragon. The icon on the package, I called a smoke dragon ... but, apparently, it is a seahorse.
> 
> If you scroll up to wermad's post, you can clearly see it is a seahorse.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I keep on typing seahouse ... instead of seahorse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a P'd Off looking seahorse
Click to expand...

I tend to look at things as proof of Chinese knockoff status. BP is a dragon, Barrows is a redesigned "drago..." er "seahorse".









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Evga 650G PSU
> 
> thx


Just a G? Or A 650GS?

TCO


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just a G? Or A 650GS?
> 
> TCO


NEX650G

I know I know. not very good but tbh I've never had any issues with it plus it's fully modular and quiet. Don't think I'm gonna upgrade it in the near future as it works just fine


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> NEX650G
> 
> I know I know. not very good but tbh I've never had any issues with it plus it's fully modular and quiet. Don't think I'm gonna upgrade it in the near future as it works just fine


It was just a question. You are entitled to purchased whatever parts that fit your needs.

TCO


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> first time custom loop attempt.
> any comments welcome


Are those painted fittings? One thing I really regret when I started is using painted fittings and didn't make sure all the paint that it was shedding was cleaned off. Most of it got stuck on the CPU block and I had to open it up and cleaned it after it all collected there over time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> NEX650G
> 
> I know I know. not very good but tbh I've never had any issues with it plus it's fully modular and quiet. Don't think I'm gonna upgrade it in the near future as it works just fine
> 
> 
> 
> It was just a question. You are entitled to purchased whatever parts that fit your needs.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

No! No he is not entitled to purchase whatever fits his needs.









... Did I say that out loud.









j/k of course









~Ceadder


----------



## gdubc

The Barrow packaging use a "smoke dragon", but the plugs and some other things I've noticed are a seahorse. It's like they are still undecided what to use for sure, lol


----------



## rck1984

The parts for my GPU got delivered today:



1x EK-CoolStream PE 360 Radiator.
1x EK-FC Titan X - Nickel/Acetal.
1x EK-FC Titan X Backplate black.
4x Bitspower 10MM (3/8 ID - 5/8 OD) compression 90 graden Rotary - G1/4 Matte Black.
2x Bitspower G1/4 Matt Black 90 Degree ID 1/4 Adapter.
2x Bitspower G1/4 Matt Black IG1/4 Extender 15mm.
2x EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm Matte Black.
2m EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 16/10mm





_*The EK Titan-X block in acetal/nickel is truly stunning.*_



_*The same can be said about the Titan-X backplate, just gorgeous.*_




_*The EK Coolstream PE360...*_

Looking forward re-doing my loop and adding my GPU tomorrow


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The Barrow packaging use a "smoke dragon", but the plugs and some other things I've noticed are a seahorse. It's like they are still undecided what to use for sure, lol




Definitely "seahorse" but so close to a "dragon" that it proves their dishonesty.

I get *why* people chose to go with Barrows in the past, But I suspect adding any logo whatsoever will affect their bottom line. If I were worried about logos, I wouldn't even use BP. But am not so I use BP.









~Ceadder


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Are those painted fittings? One thing I really regret when I started is using painted fittings and didn't make sure all the paint that it was shedding was cleaned off. Most of it got stuck on the CPU block and I had to open it up and cleaned it after it all collected there over time.


no, I haven't touched fittings. They are factory painted. Barrows. The quality is really good, paint holds ok and it's sprayed evenly all around the fitting. Really like them, especially for the price








All my blocks/reservoir are XSPC, tubing is Mayhems and those Barrows fit perfectly, not a single leak, all nipped with the fingers and no reseating/tightening was required.

found some pics of it







phone pics, sorry for quality


----------



## B NEGATIVE

There is much plagiarism to be seen here.........

The shape of fittings is set by the end use,there is only so many ways you can make a round fitting...

However...the marketing guys at Barrow are really dancing close to the fire with that 'logo',I know copyright and trade dress means diddly to our Asian cousins but even so,that is some cynical business right there.









Old skool EK AF fittings are where its at anyway.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is much plagiarism to be seen here.........
> 
> The shape of fittings is set by the end use,there is only so many ways you can make a round fitting...
> 
> However...the marketing guys at Barrow are really dancing close to the fire with that 'logo',I know copyright and trade dress means diddly to our Asian cousins but even so,that is some cynical business right there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Old skool EK AF fittings are where its at anyway.


That's what Chinese do. COPY.
And sell cheaper.
Barrow fittings are copies of some expensive high end brands(mostly Bitspower).
However, they are really well made, they haven't got any ridiculous gold logo(they are actually plain which is great) and they are like half(or even more) price.
Isn't it what us, customers want?


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is much plagiarism to be seen here.........
> 
> The shape of fittings is set by the end use,there is only so many ways you can make a round fitting...
> 
> However...the marketing guys at Barrow are really dancing close to the fire with that 'logo',I know copyright and trade dress means diddly to our Asian cousins but even so,that is some cynical business right there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Old skool EK AF fittings are where its at anyway.


Its quite funny because I know allot of people have been buying their products for the reason that they didn't have any markings on the fittings or end caps







So they will just lose customers by trying to completely copy BP


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Its quite funny because I know allot of people have been buying their products for the reason that they didn't have any markings on the fittings or end caps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So they will just lose customers by trying to completely copy BP


Are they putting logo onto their fittings now?? I better buy some spare bits now from old stock

I guess as they're becoming more popular they wanna get more recognition from customers.


----------



## Ceadderman

(v) Agreed B. I don't expect there are a lot of ways to change the designs of what a fitting looks like. But companies have built and designed fittings that stand out from the crowd. EK with their square angle blocks is one that comes to mind.









At least when EK "copied" BP 45* and 90* fittings, they didn't use any logo at all. Put theirs next to a BP angle fitting and you'll see how similar they are.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is much plagiarism to be seen here.........
> 
> The shape of fittings is set by the end use,there is only so many ways you can make a round fitting...
> 
> However...the marketing guys at Barrow are really dancing close to the fire with that 'logo',I know copyright and trade dress means diddly to our Asian cousins but even so,that is some cynical business right there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Old skool EK AF fittings are where its at anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> Its quite funny because I know allot of people have been buying their products for the reason that they didn't have any markings on the fittings or end caps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So they will just lose customers by trying to completely copy BP*
Click to expand...

This is what I'm saying. They are going after everybody who has a solid foothold in the market. To the point where they simply lost their minds and started adding logos. Tt is just as looney. At least they aren't trying to put a snake in a circle on their stolen designs.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## rck1984

Guys, any tips on how to align a non-rotary fitting in a certain position? I want my Bitspower adapter to 'face' up but I'm having a difficult time getting it right. The adapter is either too loose or I need to tighten it too much (to my liking at least, or am I too careful?)

Any advise on making this an easy job?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Guys, any tips on how to align a non-rotary fitting in a certain position? I want my Bitspower adapter to 'face' up but I'm having a difficult time getting it right. The adapter is either too loose or I need to tighten it too much (to my liking at least, or am I too careful?)
> 
> Any advise on making this an easy job?


Take note of where you're facing and count how many rotations it takes to get adequately screwed in and then use this information to move your initial starting location so when you have done the required amount of turns it is in the correct place.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Guys, any tips on how to align a non-rotary fitting in a certain position? I want my Bitspower adapter to 'face' up but I'm having a difficult time getting it right. The adapter is either too loose or I need to tighten it too much (to my liking at least, or am I too careful?)
> 
> Any advise on making this an easy job?


When I have that rotational issue I use different varying densities and/or thicknesses of o-rings, works every time.

Works well for stop fittings also when you want the logo or markings to line up at 12 O'clock tight, instead of 11:45, or 12:15.


----------



## 1911Savage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> first time custom loop attempt.
> any comments welcome


Looks great!

Question: Can those Enermax fans be disassembled and the logo flipped so it's not upside down? Just curious.


----------



## rck1984

Thanks guys,

I tried this earlier without success but I have to say, I haven't given it much of a try. It got late and decided to continue tomorrow instead. Anyway, it felt like no matter what starting point I took, it always ended up on the same position.

But like I said, I'm going to give this some more tries tomorrow









I don't have different o-rings so that isn't an option at the moment.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> Question: Can those Enermax fans be disassembled and the logo flipped so it's not upside down? Just curious.


unfortunately not. Led hole isn't in the middle of fan height so flipping that wall circle over would cover leds.
The good thing is, Enermax Cluster has a little button for switching leds on/off so you could possibly flip the circle over and switch leds off.
Or just install them as pull fans and no modification is required


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> That's what Chinese do. COPY.
> And sell cheaper.
> Barrow fittings are copies of some expensive high end brands(mostly Bitspower).
> However, they are really well made, they haven't got any ridiculous gold logo(they are actually plain which is great) and they are like half(or even more) price.
> Isn't it what us, customers want?


Actually many customers like to see ingenuity in design and this is usually seriously lacking in Chinese copies.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has anyone modded the dial on the D5 pump like the adjuster dial so you can turn it by hand instead of a screw driver or something?
> 
> It's something that has always bugged me.


You can get replacement dials, so feel free to try. I don't think anyone has done this though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I ended up getting XSPC Compressions for 3.99 each. Are Barrow fittings that much cheaper?


Not really, the XSPC fittings are pretty good for the money also.

Oh, and I noticed someone mention Anfitech earlier. I am going through their "Drei" CPU block at the moment. They sent me the entire option list as far as mounting brackets (done in collaboration with Watercool, including the mounting hardware itself which is the same as the Watercool Heatkiller IV) and face covers go:











The block itself comes in that tin which was pretty unique. Inside is the mounting hardware and the block itself:



















Here it is with the copper mounting brackets and face cover, for example:







Interesting block from a couple of Germans. There's a white acetal top as well now I saw. Flow is slightly better than average, performance slightly worse than average. It needs some refining, this sample had some fingerprints on the coldplate and some of the mounts for example. Costs ~$70 before shipping.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You can get replacement dials, so feel free to try. I don't think anyone has done this though.
> Not really, the XSPC fittings are pretty good for the money also.
> 
> Oh, and I noticed someone mention Anfitech earlier. I am going through their "Drei" CPU block at the moment. They sent me the entire option list as far as mounting brackets (done in collaboration with Watercool, including the mounting hardware itself which is the same as the Watercool Heatkiller IV) and face covers go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The block itself comes in that tin which was pretty unique. Inside is the mounting hardware and the block itself:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is with the copper mounting brackets and face cover, for example:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting block from a couple of Germans. There's a white acetal top as well now I saw. Flow is slightly better than average, performance slightly worse than average. It needs some refining, this sample had some fingerprints on the coldplate and some of the mounts for example. Costs ~$70 before shipping.


Would love to see it's internals!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Would love to see it's internals!


Since you asked kindly, here are two more pics:





Coolant enters one port, splits in parallel 3 ways and goes through that brass separator plate and over the microchannels (45 in number, and low in height relative to most other blocks) before coming out again and exiting through the other port.

Edit: Tagging @Watercool-Jakob here because he was interested as well. The full review is in the works, but if you guys had any questions or requests, feel free to let me know.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Would love to see it's internals!
> 
> 
> 
> Since you asked kindly, here are two more pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coolant enters one port, splits in parallel 3 ways and goes through that brass separator plate and over the microchannels (45 in number, and low in height relative to most other blocks) before coming out again and exiting through the other port.
Click to expand...

Would probably have better performance if they halved the number of gaps in that plate.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would probably have better performance if they halved the number of gaps in that plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah I wasn't convinced by that plate design myself. But then again I haven't done any testing or simulations of different plate geometries to see how that works out. Let's see if @Andreoid can chime in.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I wasn't convinced by that plate design myself. But then again I haven't done any testing or simulations of different plate geometries to see how that works out. Let's see if @Andreoid can chime in.


what about removing the plate altogether and test the block without it?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> what about removing the plate altogether and test the block without it?


Already did. Flow restriction drops by ~7% which is nice, but performance takes a 2-2.5 ºC dip. My guess is that the microchannels are so low that the coolant just flows over and around them through the gap where the plate was before.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Already did. Flow restriction drops by ~7% which is nice, but performance takes a 2-2.5 ºC dip. My guess is that the microchannels are so low that the coolant just flows over and around them through the gap where the plate was before.


interesting. Not worth then. That is a no deal trade-off since the flow is already good correct? Perhaps if the raise the microchannels walls 1 mm or so performance would increase.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Its quite funny because I know allot of people have been buying their products for the reason that they didn't have any markings on the fittings or end caps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So they will just lose customers by trying to completely copy BP
> 
> 
> 
> Are they putting logo onto their fittings now?? I better buy some spare bits now from old stock
> 
> I guess as they're becoming more popular they wanna get more recognition from customers.
Click to expand...

If they did they would be putting a distinctive logo on their stuff, not one that looks like Bitspower's. The other Barrow style I'm aware of is impossible to tell apart from XSPC fittings.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> interesting. Not worth then. That is a no deal trade-off since the flow is already good correct? Perhaps if the raise the microchannels walls 1 mm or so performance would increase.


Yup, that's my assessment also- keep the plate in with the current design. It looks like the microchannels were skivved and not machined but I can't tell for sure, and if skived then increased flow wouldn't do much to scale thermal performance anyway. Higher microchannel height and them being spread across a larger surface area would definitely help out from what I have seen with other blocks.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Take note of where you're facing and count how many rotations it takes to get adequately screwed in and then use this information to move your initial starting location so when you have done the required amount of turns it is in the correct place.


Just tried this again, looks like there is only one spot where the 1/4 screws in. If I try another location, it does not grip until I am at that one position again.. Pretty frustrating! I don't have any different o-rings at home either so can't try that method. Damnit, I really need that adapter to be in that exact position. The other port on the radiator has no trouble whatsoever, screwed into perfect position pretty much immediately.

Breaking my head over this. Would a thin layer of Teflon do the trick? Or what that be useless?


----------



## Trestles126

Definitely liking the more sleeper look. Gotta plumb in the mp 400 aqua flow sensor. Any gentle type hoon similar 140 fans for my exhaust? Fan? The 120 looks a bit off.

Blacked out my case badge too kinda like it.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

VSG that Anfitec block looks rather interesting, especially the Intel 771 bit. Does this mean we might see 775/771 support with these blocks and maybe even heat killer as well? Asking because I'll be building a watercooling loop for my benching rig soon enough and it's frustrating how few options there are that actually support a few of the older sockets (hey, lga 775 is a blast, especially given how many fun and cheap chips there are for it!)


----------



## VSG

Good question. I can ask and find out but if the mounting brackets are interchangeable between the Anfitec and the Heatkiller IV, and it's just a different set of mounting brackets, it should in theory work for both blocks.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> VSG that Anfitec block looks rather interesting, especially the Intel 771 bit. Does this mean we might see 775/771 support with these blocks and maybe even heat killer as well? Asking because I'll be building a watercooling loop for my benching rig soon enough and it's frustrating how few options there are that actually support a few of the older sockets (hey, lga 775 is a blast, especially given how many fun and cheap chips there are for it!)


AFAIK pretty much every modern waterblock supports LGA775.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Probably couldn't have done that again decided to pull all screws and hope for the best worked like a charm. Easy swap out.
> 
> Started painting the face of the gt blades made a simple cover with a plumbers tape cap and some cardboard. It's Matte black and matches the texture and finish of the GTs perfect. Debating to pull them apart and paint the body's grey or not... Decisions


Trestles, are you in the Navy? Saw you tattoos on your feet. Nice work!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can get replacement dials, so feel free to try. I don't think anyone has done this though.
> Not really, the XSPC fittings are pretty good for the money also.
> 
> Oh, and I noticed someone mention Anfitech earlier. I am going through their "Drei" CPU block at the moment. They sent me the entire option list as far as mounting brackets (done in collaboration with Watercool, including the mounting hardware itself which is the same as the Watercool Heatkiller IV) and face covers go:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The block itself comes in that tin which was pretty unique. Inside is the mounting hardware and the block itself:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is with the copper mounting brackets and face cover, for example:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting block from a couple of Germans. There's a white acetal top as well now I saw. Flow is slightly better than average, performance slightly worse than average. It needs some refining, this sample had some fingerprints on the coldplate and some of the mounts for example. Costs ~$70 before shipping.


I luv the efforts of these guys filling in voids left by the other companies. they're mb blocks really are a testament of supply and demand based on consumer's needs and not just because its the flagship mb. Their effort was better then Koolance's approach of universal adaptation and hope for the best







. I see this approach in the Alphacool blocks. Not sure why they went silent for a while. The cpu block looks fantastic


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Trestles, are you in the Navy? Saw you tattoos on your feet. Nice work!


No I am not been in the operating engineers since 18 31 now and am a crane operator

Avid surfer and waterman though anytime
I'm not working in the water


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, that's my assessment also- keep the plate in with the current design. It looks like the microchannels were skivved and not machined but I can't tell for sure, and if skived then increased flow wouldn't do much to scale thermal performance anyway. Higher microchannel height and them being spread across a larger surface area would definitely help out from what I have seen with other blocks.


Its always about maximizing cold plate surface area, more and deeper finning will always net you gains.
It's my understanding micro channels are done with a slitting saw instead of an endmill,those channels don't have that look to them....

Using a copper hold down will limit the amount of pressure you can effect too and, unless coated, will always tarnish badly.

I can knock up some flow/temp simulations on basic cold plates in SW if you like?


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Since you asked kindly, here are two more pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coolant enters one port, splits in parallel 3 ways and goes through that brass separator plate and over the microchannels (45 in number, and low in height relative to most other blocks) before coming out again and exiting through the other port.
> 
> Edit: Tagging @Watercool-Jakob here because he was interested as well. The full review is in the works, but if you guys had any questions or requests, feel free to let me know.


Am I the only one who gets reminded of the MIPS Iceforce by looking at that acetal top?
Thanks by the way!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its always about maximizing cold plate surface area, more and deeper finning will always net you gains.
> It's my understanding micro channels are done with a slitting saw instead of an endmill,those channels don't have that look to them....
> 
> Using a copper hold down will limit the amount of pressure you can effect too and, unless coated, will always tarnish badly.
> 
> *I can knock up some flow/temp simulations on basic cold plates in SW if you like?*


Would be cool B-neg!
A long time ago I did some simulations myself and actually managed to reproduce the results of the raystorm and managed to beat it my 2 degrees by working up my own design while keeping the same pressure drop.
Only drawback was the production cost, since I did not have access to a mill that could use a slitting saw, and only option was completely outsourcing or only have the slits done by EDM (wire erosion). Either way waaaay too expensive, for just 2 degrees.
I had fun though


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> what about removing the plate altogether and test the block without it?


if you remove the brass plate this would kill the performance totally and maybe it will demage the bottom because the copper is so thin, it will bend for sure because the brassplate is not thre to stabilize the mounting preasure from the CPU IHS. So: DO NOT REMOVE THE BRASS-PLATE!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> VSG that Anfitec block looks rather interesting, especially the Intel 771 bit. Does this mean we might see 775/771 support with these blocks and maybe even heat killer as well? Asking because I'll be building a watercooling loop for my benching rig soon enough and it's frustrating how few options there are that actually support a few of the older sockets (hey, lga 775 is a blast, especially given how many fun and cheap chips there are for it!)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> AFAIK pretty much every modern waterblock supports LGA775.


the "drei" does not support 775... for this we have left some Soleil01 parts... if you need this with 775 you can write us at the contact formular
here a Soleil01 with a 1366 mount

771 for the "drei" was wrong,... we mentioned "2011-3 Narrow-ILM" ... this is now corrected in the webshop
the 2011-3 Narrow-ILM will look bit like the AMD mount
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Good question. I can ask and find out but if the mounting brackets are interchangeable between the Anfitec and the Heatkiller IV, and it's just a different set of mounting brackets, it should in theory work for both blocks.


the mountingbrackets are NOT the same... we only bought the screws at watercool




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I luv the efforts of these guys filling in voids left by the other companies. they're mb blocks really are a testament of supply and demand based on consumer's needs and not just because its the flagship mb. Their effort was better then Koolance's approach of universal adaptation and hope for the best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I see this approach in the Alphacool blocks. Not sure why they went silent for a while. The cpu block looks fantastic


thank you








we always say: If the technical improvements does not matter, you can proudly assert something in your computer owning of a
hard-working German cooler forge where one developed by water cooler users with other water cooler users for other water cooler users.








sadfully my thread here http://www.overclock.net/t/271025/af-andreoid-finnzwerg-watercool-tinkering-tons-of-pix/570#post_17873915 is closed and the admins don't answer my requests :'(
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its always about maximizing cold plate surface area, more and deeper finning will always net you gains.
> It's my understanding micro channels are done with a slitting saw instead of an endmill,those channels don't have that look to them....
> Using a copper hold down will limit the amount of pressure you can effect too and, unless coated, will always tarnish badly.
> I can knock up some flow/temp simulations on basic cold plates in SW if you like?


deeper finning will kill the flowspeed in the channels
Our copper mount does not limit the amount of pressure what is prescribed by Intel.
Normally we assemble and package all components with protective gloves.
At your first pictures they are still without fingerprints http://cdn.overclock.net/5/50/5060e8a3_IMG_0136.jpeg
http://cdn.overclock.net/9/96/967589af_IMG_0138.jpeg we dont use some clearcoat or sth..
So if you touch the brass/copperparts with your fingers it gonna get dark.

We have flow simulations with the right CAD models, if anyone is interessted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Am I the only one who gets reminded of the MIPS Iceforce by looking at that acetal top?
> Thanks by the way!
> Would be cool B-neg!
> A long time ago I did some simulations myself and actually managed to reproduce the results of the raystorm and managed to beat it my 2 degrees by working up my own design while keeping the same pressure drop.
> Only drawback was the production cost, since I did not have access to a mill that could use a slitting saw, and only option was completely outsourcing or only have the slits done by EDM (wire erosion). Either way waaaay too expensive, for just 2 degrees.
> I had fun though


the "drei" is based on a development of the soleil02... the Soleil CPU Block is much older than the Mips. Furthermore the mips is much more complicated. The "finger"-multi-intake-outtake principle is almost the same. The "drei" finns are produced with a 0,3mm sawblade. But the secret of the convex bottom, we will not reveal.

some more for the picturethread:
our waterblocks for the *ASUS Z170-P* motherboard
UCDsb, UPC002 (13x82mm), CPU03 intel


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> deeper finning will kill the flowspeed in the channels
> Our copper mount does not limit the amount of pressure what is prescribed by Intel.


Killing flow speed in the channels is not a problem if you use a single port jetplate..... The single port can generate a higher pressure than the multiport thru the channels,also it cools directly over the die and spreads from there,the multiport is cooling evenly over the whole IHS which isnt really the aim. Your design has been seen before in the DT 5Noz,it didnt do so well......

TBH,Im not really bothered by Intels spec,I want to go higher than that. Im not running the CPU at Intel spec,why would i want the cooling to remain there too? Mounting pressure matters. Although,If I was buying one then I wouldnt buy the copper mounts anyway, so its a moot point.

For such a 'high quality' component,you are certainly missing a trick by not coating the copper .....


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Killing flow speed in the channels is not a problem if you use a single port jetplate..... The single port can generate a higher pressure than the
> multiport thru the channels,also it cools directly over the die and spreads from there,the multiport is cooling evenly over the whole IHS which isnt really the aim. Your design has been seen before in the DT 5Noz,it didnt do so well......


So you don't have any tests jetzt that say that a single port-inlet is always better in cooling performance...
The "drei" does have a calculated waterflow and don't have such huge inlets like the DT 5Noz... btw.. they just press the water inside but didn't made a thought how it comes directly out of the structure... it can come out everywhere next to a nozzle... this we did already in 2007 with our first cpu-block "exRF" (limited to 50 pieces).


(picute of dexgo, https://www.dexgo.com/index.php?site=artikel/view.php&rubrik=&id=363)


So its all about the cross-section of the nozzles and not just jabbered about single or multi intake...
Furthermore with the single-inlet the water is to long in the structure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> TBH,Im not really bothered by Intels spec,I want to go higher than that. Im not running the CPU at Intel spec,why would i want the cooling to remain there too? *Mounting pressure matters*. Although,If I was buying one then I wouldnt buy the copper mounts anyway, so its a moot point.


Intel-specs about mounting pressure is what i mentioned. Do not "twist the words in my mouth".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For such a 'high quality' component,you are certainly missing a trick by not coating the copper .....


Your sound is a bit inappropriate. We are 2 people,.. developing and building these blocks in our weekends. You should not compare it with a 1000 pieces series.
We don't had any CPU copper-mounting yet and there are a lot of users that are able to mount there without touching it sweaty fingers or are able to use protective gloves.
But we heard this critic and gonna conduct experiments with clear coat.

Anfi-tec "drei" CPU03 copper mount, pom top, copper cover


----------



## KaffieneKing

@Andreoid Do you have blocks compatible for the MSI z97M chipsets? No where seems to do any, I would look myself on your site but there is a bit of a language barrier









EDIT: I'm dumb thanks willemdoom


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @Andreoid Do you have blocks compatible for the MSI z97M chipsets? No where seems to do any, I would look myself on your site but there is a bit of a language barrier


You can put it on English


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we always say: If the technical improvements does not matter, you can proudly assert something in your computer owning of a
> hard-working German cooler forge where one developed by water cooler users with other water cooler users for other water cooler users.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sadfully my thread here http://www.overclock.net/t/271025/af-andreoid-finnzwerg-watercool-tinkering-tons-of-pix/570#post_17873915 is closed and the admins don't answer my requests :'(
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> (picute of dexgo, https://www.dexgo.com/index.php?site=artikel/view.php&rubrik=&id=363)
> 
> 
> 
> So its all about the cross-section of the nozzles and not just jabbered about single or multi intake...
> Furthermore with the single-inlet the water is to long in the structure.
> Intel-specs about mounting pressure is what i mentioned. Do not "twist the words in my mouth".
> Your sound is a bit inappropriate. We are 2 people,.. developing and building these blocks in our weekends. You should not compare it with a 1000 pieces series.
> We don't had any CPU copper-mounting yet and there are a lot of users that are able to mount there without touching it sweaty fingers or are able to use protective gloves.
> But we heard this critic and gonna conduct experiments with clear coat.
> 
> Anfi-tec "drei" CPU03 copper mount, pom top, copper cover
Click to expand...

awesome stuff


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So you don't have any tests jetzt that say that a single port-inlet is always better in cooling performance...
> The "drei" does have a calculated waterflow and don't have such huge inlets like the DT 5Noz... btw.. they just press the water inside but didn't made a thought how it comes directly out of the structure... it can come out everywhere next to a nozzle... this we did already in 2007 with our first cpu-block "exRF" (limited to 50 pieces).
> 
> 
> (picute of dexgo, https://www.dexgo.com/index.php?site=artikel/view.php&rubrik=&id=363)
> 
> 
> So its all about the cross-section of the nozzles and not just jabbered about single or multi intake...
> Furthermore with the single-inlet the water is to long in the structure.
> Intel-specs about mounting pressure is what i mentioned. Do not "twist the words in my mouth".
> Your sound is a bit inappropriate. We are 2 people,.. developing and building these blocks in our weekends. You should not compare it with a 1000 pieces series.
> We don't had any CPU copper-mounting yet and there are a lot of users that are able to mount there without touching it sweaty fingers or are able to use protective gloves.
> But we heard this critic and gonna conduct experiments with clear coat.
> 
> Anfi-tec "drei" CPU03 copper mount, pom top, copper cover


Lets see what the reviewers think shall we?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

DDC Liking the Warm Weather










TCO


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> first time custom loop attempt.
> any comments welcome


That's pretty clean. I like the white. Would be off grey in my house, lol. Wife's candle habit makes a lot of soot!


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> ...


How's that Shoggy sandwich working out for you? Can you sticky it to the case or is yours just sitting there? Also, what Black tubing is that?

Thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> DDC Liking the Warm Weather
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Bear in mind the pump is only rated for 60c.......


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> How's that Shoggy sandwich working out for you? Can you sticky it to the case or is yours just sitting there? Also, what Black tubing is that?
> 
> Thanks


It just sits there. I have one in my build, it's pad > sticky > sponge > sticky > pad. Screws for the pump go directly into the top pad. You could run screws thru the bottom of the case into the pad but that would probably defeat the point.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1576918/build-log-mighunter-under-water/20#post_24606177


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> AFAIK pretty much every modern waterblock supports LGA775.


Interestingly enough, not all of them do due to the different bolt pattern. EK's Supremacy Evo does, but the MX doesn't (out if the box anyways, add the precise mount kit and it will), Watercool's Heat killer IV does not, Xspc's Raystorm Pro does not, Swiftech Apogee XL it's an optional item that costs extra... And none of Corsair's aio setups do without having to write into support and them pay $12.99 or $13.99 USD plus shipping for the old mounting bracket (which is only compatible with some of the new aio's). 1/5 of the popular blocks I listed supporting it out of the box, with that number rising to 3/5 if you pay for additional extras isn't what I would call "pretty much every block". Packaging showed lga 775 which got me excited, but it's been confirmed by the manufacturer that this Anfitec block doesn't support lga 775, so that now makes those previously mentioned ratios an even lower percentage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> the "drei" does not support 775... for this we have left some Soleil01 parts... if you need this with 775 you can write us at the contact formular
> here a Soleil01 with a 1366 mount
> 
> 771 for the "drei" was wrong,... we mentioned "2011-3 Narrow-ILM" ... this is now corrected in the webshop
> the 2011-3 Narrow-ILM will look bit like the AMD mount


Darn, pity that lga 775 support isn't there for thus block. As for lga 771,you guys might want to change the packaging, as seeing it on the label is what originally made me go "oh sweet, they've made mounts for this older setup!"


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bear in mind the pump is only rated for 60c.......


I have no knowledge on how to check the pumps temp.

TCO


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> How's that Shoggy sandwich working out for you? Can you sticky it to the case or is yours just sitting there? Also, what Black tubing is that?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> It just sits there. I have one in my build, it's pad > sticky > sponge > sticky > pad. Screws for the pump go directly into the top pad. You could run screws thru the bottom of the case into the pad but that would probably defeat the point.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576918/build-log-mighunter-under-water/20#post_24606177
Click to expand...

You should have gone with Sorbothane... It's available at McMaster Carr. It's awesome stuff! I might still have a little left but I don't use it for my PC...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sorbothane/=11lbbdi
The stuff is like a jelly but its a polyurathane. It's AMAZING for absorbing vibration


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have no knowledge on how to check the pumps temp.
> 
> TCO


If I'm not wrong the 60°C is stated for the liquid the pump should move.


----------



## RnRollie

Sorbothane .. thats the stuff they use in workshop under the feet of machinery.. also for sale to put underneath the feet of a laundry machine

Walmart's (recycled rubber tires) pads or sheets should set you back $5.70 or $7.50


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have no knowledge on how to check the pumps temp.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm not wrong the 60°C is stated for the liquid the pump should move.
Click to expand...

Yes, its actually the limit of the liquid temp when the pump is using the "standard" rubber o-ring & plastic housing

The D5 however, also exists in a Central Heating (re-circulator) variant.. rated at a much higher temp (different o-rings & such)
info available on the DC series & E-series on the Laing site http://laing-thermotech.com/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have no knowledge on how to check the pumps temp.
> 
> TCO


Ignore me,I was on my phone and thought it was pump temp/RPM....

I can only blame the flu and the copious quantities of Night Nurse im drinking.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Yes, its actually the limit of the liquid temp when the pump is using the "standard" rubber o-ring & plastic housing
> 
> The D5 however, also exists in a Central Heating (re-circulator) variant.. rated at a much higher temp (different o-rings & such)
> info available on the DC series & E-series on the Laing site http://laing-thermotech.com/


This.

The D5 is good for 100c if using the brass top. The standard top is only rated for 60c,this would include all plastic top variants I should imagine.


----------



## Silent Scone

heh, learn something new everyday


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It just sits there. I have one in my build, it's pad > sticky > sponge > sticky > pad. Screws for the pump go directly into the top pad. You could run screws thru the bottom of the case into the pad but that would probably defeat the point.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1576918/build-log-mighunter-under-water/20#post_24606177


And what purpose does this serve? Sound isolation?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ignore me,I was on my phone and thought it was *pump temp/RPM....*
> 
> I can only blame the flu and the copious quantities of Night Nurse im drinking.....
> This.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The D5 is good for 100c if using the brass top. The standard top is only rated for 60c,this would include all plastic top variants I should imagine.


I was confused to say the least.

TCO


----------



## mouacyk

So what happens when the ambient water temp reaches the pump max operating temp? Is it wired to shut down? I wonder if this was the primary issue with the original H220 with its many reported cases of pump stalls. A 60C pump block sitting on top of a super hot haswell CPU, especially those that are delidded and are transfering heat well into the IHS/block.


----------



## iBruce

Back to talking about getting stop fittings logos and graphics to line up at "12oclock tight", the greatest variability seems to be where Bitspower or company X decides to print the logo in relation to the threading on the opposite side, which seems to be random, meaning they don't line up the threads on the other side to the logo in an upright position, before stamping, printing, painting the logo.

These two stop plugs below I got lucky the threads and logo stamping aligned well although if you look one is printed about 1.0mm higher on the stop plug surface than the other.

I have another where the logos line up in height but not with the thread pattern, so yea, you could buy a handful of these stop plugs and find two that match up perfectly and take the others back, but short of that, this alignment in the pic below is good enough, not perfect but good enough, and both plugs are tight.

...off to PPCS to pick up a small handful of stop fittings, I'm gonna get this right dammit!









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5407_zpsy6gdx8mj.jpg.html


----------



## Questors

Leaking testing by section and having a problem. Using air to test (thanks and credit ITDiva & B Negative







), is proving a loss of pressure in the pedestal section. Some of the ports on both the EK-XTs and the HWLabs SR2-MPs are not straight (see pic below) . This prompted a change from acrylic tube in this area to EK ZMT. I also felt this was THE problem area and it did prove to be A problem. There is still a loss of pressure,though I can't find a/the leak(s). Thus far, straight water reveals no bubbles and a drop or two of soap in the water hasn't produced a culprit either. To ensure a clear view all around, the pedestal was flipped upside down and also removed the covers on the rad mounts for the HWL 360 rads (using CaseLabs 480 mounts) allowing a clear view to "hidden" ports. Nada!




^ _This last picture shows one of the offset ports very clearly (EK-XT480 right side). There are at least two others like it among the four radiators._

This was a point someone brought up some pages back with a XSPC AX rad. The XSPC AX rads I used previously, all ports were flat and straight as an arrow. Now, both EK and HWLabs in my currently build are on exhibit for this "normal production issue."









At any rate - I am stumped and frustrated trying to find the leak(s).









*Ideas*? Submerge rads in water, pump in air in and watch for bubbles?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It depends on the loss level and if the tester itself is airtight,you did do an airtight test on the tester correct?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Leaking testing by section and having a problem. Using air to test (thanks and credit ITDiva & B Negative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), is proving a loss of pressure in the pedestal section. Some of the ports on both the EK-XTs and the HWLabs SR2-MPs are not straight (see pic below) . This prompted a change from acrylic tube in this area to EK ZMT. I also felt this was THE problem area and it did prove to be A problem. There is still a loss of pressure,though I can't find a/the leak(s). Thus far, straight water reveals no bubbles and a drop or two of soap in the water hasn't produced a culprit either. To ensure a clear view all around, the pedestal was flipped upside down and also removed the covers on the rad mounts for the HWL 360 rads (using CaseLabs 480 mounts) allowing a clear view to "hidden" ports. Nada!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ _This last picture shows one of the offset ports very clearly (EK-XT480 right side). There are at least two others like it among the four radiators._
> 
> This was a point someone brought up some pages back with a XSPC AX rad. The XSPC AX rads I used previously, all ports were flat and straight as an arrow. Now, both EK and HWLabs in my currently build are on exhibit for this "normal production issue."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At any rate - I am stumped and frustrated trying to find the leak(s).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ideas*? Submerge rads in water, pump in air in and watch for bubbles?


most likely the connections between the air pressure meter and the loop are to blame in my experience. Try to use kitchen soap (lots of bubbles) on the connections between fittings to see where the leak is.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Leaking testing by section and having a problem. Using air to test (thanks and credit ITDiva & B Negative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), is proving a loss of pressure in the pedestal section. Some of the ports on both the EK-XTs and the HWLabs SR2-MPs are not straight (see pic below) . This prompted a change from acrylic tube in this area to EK ZMT. I also felt this was THE problem area and it did prove to be A problem. There is still a loss of pressure,though I can't find a/the leak(s). Thus far, straight water reveals no bubbles and a drop or two of soap in the water hasn't produced a culprit either. To ensure a clear view all around, the pedestal was flipped upside down and also removed the covers on the rad mounts for the HWL 360 rads (using CaseLabs 480 mounts) allowing a clear view to "hidden" ports. Nada!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ _This last picture shows one of the offset ports very clearly (EK-XT480 right side). There are at least two others like it among the four radiators._
> 
> This was a point someone brought up some pages back with a XSPC AX rad. The XSPC AX rads I used previously, all ports were flat and straight as an arrow. Now, both EK and HWLabs in my currently build are on exhibit for this "normal production issue."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At any rate - I am stumped and frustrated trying to find the leak(s).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ideas*? Submerge rads in water, pump in air in and watch for bubbles?


Assuming you've tested the tester and it's OK , . . . .

Check around the SR2 MPs . . . . .

If you have any of the stock plastic port caps, those things suck big time.

The o rings are wayyy to soft and tend to shred when the cap is tightened, and then they leak

When I did my S8 build a few months back, I air tested section by section, there was at least 1 bad plastic cap in every module I tested.

Darlene


----------



## gdubc

I would rather they gave us decent plugs in less number than all those plastic pieces of garbage.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It depends on the loss level and if the tester itself is airtight,you did do an airtight test on the tester correct?


Yes, It is tested and tight. The rigging in question loses about .65 +/- psi every hour. Putting 12 psi of air in at about noon one day takes an overnight - 6 to 7 am-ish to leak out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> most likely the connections between the air pressure meter and the loop are to blame in my experience. Try to use kitchen soap (lots of bubbles) on the connections between fittings to see where the leak is.


I will try a solution with more soap content.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Assuming you've tested the tester and it's OK , . . . .


Yes, It is tested and tight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Check around the SR2 MPs . . . . .
> 
> If you have any of the stock plastic port caps, those things suck big time.
> 
> The o rings are wayyy to soft and tend to shred when the cap is tightened, and then they leak
> 
> When I did my S8 build a few months back, I air tested section by section, there was at least 1 bad plastic cap in every module I tested.
> 
> Darlene


The plastic caps are horrid, they were replaced right away with EK stop plugs. No obvious leak appears at any of the ports though. I have been testing, replacing tubing, O-rings and fittings and retesting off and on for a few weeks... found some leaks when using acrylic tube, guess it has to do with the crooked ports. ZMT took care of that.

Giving it a rest this evening, on it again tomorrow. Thank you all.


----------



## wermad

As much as I've heard and thought about air leak testing, I didn't air test, just triple checked all fittings were tight. Good lord, these Barrows are rock hard once the rings settle. Fingers were incredibly sore and pulling the tube was a super hard, even with silicone greased used to slip the tube in initially. I had to remove one tube when i was trying to fit a psu in and i thought I was going to bend the panel. Eventually, I dropped in 2 gallons of distilled and no leaks! I did have leaks in the past with these rads but that's because i was gentle on the plugs (remember Alphacool uses seven ports). Since then, I've tighten them pretty firmly and i have not had any leaks. Same mantra was applied to my Barrow setup, though having almost two months of down time helped with checking fittings periodically







.

Well, for those who can't or don't want to air test, we're bigger risk takers me guesses







. Just wanted to share my







.


----------



## gree

How am i suppouse to figure out which screws to take off my gpu? (Galax 980ti hof)

The bitspower block only shows how to install the block
And the galax site does have any info


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> How am i suppouse to figure out which screws to take off my gpu? (Galax 980ti hof)
> 
> The bitspower block only shows how to install the block
> And the galax site does have any info


Usually you would remove ALL screws on the back.. separate the cooler... and then you get access to the back plate screws. I wouldn't think your HOF is any different but I don't own one.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> How am i suppouse to figure out which screws to take off my gpu? (Galax 980ti hof)
> 
> The bitspower block only shows how to install the block
> And the galax site does have any info


Wen in doubt, just remove all of them.


----------



## gree

Im trying lol, figuring out how to reach some of the screws is hard

Edit the heatsink/fana came a off the pcb while trying to take off a screw off the backplate xd think im okay now


----------



## gree

I take the old thermalpads off correct?


----------



## mouacyk

Your block should have supplied new thermal pads. My EK block did.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Your block should have supplied new thermal pads. My EK block did.






Well i bought mine off OC, the BP backplate already has some on.
Idk how exactly to apple the ones on the pcb. BP didnt really include very good instructions


----------



## SteezyTN

Are there any good dual D5 pump tops? I'm only aware of the bitswpoer top. I don't think EK sells the revo dual just as the top.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It depends on the loss level and if the tester itself is airtight,you did do an airtight test on the tester correct?


The first time I used mine I had a leak between the schrader valve and the pump. It took me about an hour to figure it out. Duh!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Are there any good dual D5 pump tops? I'm only aware of the bitswpoer top. I don't think EK sells the revo dual just as the top.


Nope EK doesn't sell the tops separately.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope EK doesn't sell the tops separately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So the only option as of now is the Bitswpower?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope EK doesn't sell the tops separately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the only option as of now is the Bitswpower?
Click to expand...

Unless XSPC/Swiftec makes one I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Are there any good dual D5 pump tops? I'm only aware of the bitswpoer top. I don't think EK sells the revo dual just as the top.


From strens review, the ek dual d5 (series not dual loops) performed better then the Bitspower dual top. But from what folks have told me, the tradeoff is worth having as you have many options for the Bitspower. And the ek is very difficult to find these days.

I went with two seperate pumps but rather then run them in consecutive sequence (one after the other) which is typical, they're in sequence but in different order (one at the beginning and the other halfway through the loop). Has worked great so far.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From strens review, the ek dual d5 (series not dual loops) performed better then the Bitspower dual top. But from what folks have told me, the tradeoff is worth having as you have many options for the Bitspower. And the ek is very difficult to find these days.
> 
> I went with two seperate pumps but rather then run them in consecutive sequence (one after the other) which is typical, they're in sequence but in different order (one at the beginning and the other halfway through the loop). Has worked great so far.


In a few months, I was thinking about getting rid of my XSPC res/pump combos, and putting all of my pumps in the bottom compartment of my SMA8. With my setup now, I have my two combos feeding right into each other, and my third d5 in about the middle of the loop. One of the D5s that are right next to each other, is super loud on anything over 3000 rpm. I leave two of them at 5000, and just turn the loud one off. I was hoping to get a dual top to see if the noise would decrease a little, or separating all the pumps at different portion in the loop.


----------



## ozzy1925

Guys, i am doing a new loop for my friend but having a problem with the video card 
As you see the card is bend i think because of the weight of water the block ,is there a way to fix this ?It will ruin the look


----------



## mouacyk

something like this
https://forum.teksyndicate.com/t/fix-for-video-card-sag/95557/19


----------



## pc-illiterate

that long straight run coming from the bottom of the card looks like its running downhill right. in fact, looking at the right side, i would start over.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And what purpose does this serve? Sound isolation?
> I was confused to say the least.
> 
> TCO


Correct. Everyone tends to have issues with pump vibration and the case so they suggested putting in something from the getgo so you don't have to redo the tubing lengths. That soggy sandwich as they are called were highly recommended.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Leaking testing by section and having a problem. Using air to test (thanks and credit ITDiva & B Negative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), is proving a loss of pressure in the pedestal section. Some of the ports on both the EK-XTs and the HWLabs SR2-MPs are not straight (see pic below) . This prompted a change from acrylic tube in this area to EK ZMT. I also felt this was THE problem area and it did prove to be A problem. There is still a loss of pressure,though I can't find a/the leak(s). Thus far, straight water reveals no bubbles and a drop or two of soap in the water hasn't produced a culprit either. To ensure a clear view all around, the pedestal was flipped upside down and also removed the covers on the rad mounts for the HWL 360 rads (using CaseLabs 480 mounts) allowing a clear view to "hidden" ports. Nada!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ _This last picture shows one of the offset ports very clearly (EK-XT480 right side). There are at least two others like it among the four radiators._
> 
> This was a point someone brought up some pages back with a XSPC AX rad. The XSPC AX rads I used previously, all ports were flat and straight as an arrow. Now, both EK and HWLabs in my currently build are on exhibit for this "normal production issue."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At any rate - I am stumped and frustrated trying to find the leak(s).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ideas*? Submerge rads in water, pump in air in and watch for bubbles?[/spoiler/


I had a pretty bad leak. I would fill to 10 psi and then come back 12 hours later and it would be at 0. It was very frustrating. My apparatus was air tight. I couldn't find the leak with soap either. Finally, I just put water in it expecting to find the leak and drain it to fix the problem. 2 days later, not a single leak.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> How am i suppouse to figure out which screws to take off my gpu? (Galax 980ti hof)
> 
> The bitspower block only shows how to install the block
> And the galax site does have any info


Did you google it for a youtube video? The breakdown video I found for my EK waterblocked 295x2 was superb


----------



## wermad

I went overkill and used sixteen alphacool rubber bushings for my pumps. Actually, the pumps attached to a piece of acrylic using nylon washers. The acrylic then is bolted down to the bushings which in turn are attached to the case. There was no way the acrylic would actually "float" due to the rubber drooping under the weight, so I left a tiny gap and i used some velcro soft side to avoid acrylic to acrylic contact and noise. Its worked great and the pumps are audible but nothing annoying.


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> How's that Shoggy sandwich working out for you? Can you sticky it to the case or is yours just sitting there? Also, what Black tubing is that?
> 
> Thanks


don't know, thats not my PC its from a customer. And the other users already anwserd..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Packaging showed lga 775 which got me excited, but it's been confirmed by the manufacturer that this Anfitec block doesn't support lga 775, so that now makes those previously mentioned ratios an even lower percentage. Darn, pity that lga 775 support isn't there for thus block. As for lga 771,you guys might want to change the packaging, as seeing it on the label is what originally made me go "oh sweet, they've made mounts for this older setup!"


if the request of for 775 would be high enough (10 persons) we can construct mounting brackets for the "drei" for 775 or 771 and mill them by our-self (only in copper or brass, stainless steel starts with 100 parts).
771 was a mistake on the sticker







we thought that it is 2011-3 Narrow-ILM

maybe somebody is interested, here a litte explanation of the "drei" function:



The coolant flows in three places in the finns and leaves it at two points (1-1-1, 2-2-2, 3-3-3). At the slot 1, the water enters the finns and leaves the two adjacent slot flows out again, (which I have marked with an 1)
The same applies to the marked position "2" and "3".

This is how we engineered a better flow an better cooling performance than other blocks. The CPU water block utilises a complex finn-structure-nozzle-system combined with a state-of-the-art intake technique by Anfitec (multiple in- and outlet). This multiple in- and outlet technique we also have used in the Soleil01 and Soleil02 CPU Block. For the "drei" we made alot improving flow simulations.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> don't know, thats not my PC its from a customer. And the other users already anwserd..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if the request of for 775 would be high enough (10 persons) we can construct mounting brackets for the "drei" for 775 or 771 and mill them by our-self (only in copper or brass, stainless steel starts with 100 parts).
> 771 was a mistake on the sticker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we thought that it is 2011-3 Narrow-ILM
> 
> maybe somebody is interested, here a litte explanation of the "drei" function:
> 
> 
> 
> The coolant flows in three places in the finns and leaves it at two points (1-1-1, 2-2-2, 3-3-3). At the slot 1, the water enters the finns and leaves the two adjacent slot flows out again, (which I have marked with an 1)
> The same applies to the marked position "2" and "3".
> 
> This is how we engineered a better flow an better cooling performance than other blocks. The CPU water block utilises a complex finn-structure-nozzle-system combined with a state-of-the-art intake technique by Anfitec (multiple in- and outlet). This multiple in- and outlet technique we also have used in the Soleil01 and Soleil02 CPU Block. For the "drei" we made alot improving flow simulations.


Are these available in the US? Highly interested. Thanks.


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Guys, i am doing a new loop for my friend but having a problem with the video card
> As you see the card is bend i think because of the weight of water the block ,is there a way to fix this ?It will ruin the look


Here are 2 options

https://www.pugetsystems.com/store/item.php?cat=Case+Mods&id=10588&com=d41d8cd9
https://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=card+keepers


----------



## Andreoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> It would be amazing if you could send a review sample to fast_fate. I think he might be interested


geggeg got one


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Correct. Everyone tends to have issues with pump vibration and the case so they suggested putting in something from the getgo so you don't have to redo the tubing lengths. That soggy sandwich as they are called were highly recommended.


Wow, I have more than a couple DDC pumps running and have never felt the need to put something under them. All of them have a bitspower or Ek heatsink with the little feet and really don't hear the pump.

TCO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andreoid*
> 
> geggeg got one


Would be fantastic to have another "independent" block in the round up which is "_currently_" being updated.
@stren generally handles the block testing for ER, and he's been out of action for a couple of months - lucky sod








BUT...
He'll be back and ready to fire on all cylinders in about 3 weeks.
Happy to name him for another CPU block test









I picked up an AnftiTech VRM block a few years ago for a board nobody else made one for.
Was really happy with the quality and customer service.


----------



## rck1984

Adding my GTX980Ti, a triple radiator and completely re-doing the loop. Here is a little peak of the build:


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Adding my GTX980Ti, a triple radiator and completely re-doing the loop. Here is a little peak of the build:


Where can I get those plastic holder thingies? Must get those!!!


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Where can I get those plastic holder thingies? Must get those!!!


They're called 'cable combs', you should be able to find them at any decent hardware store. I bought mine at www.highflow.nl, it's a Dutch online-store that ships world-wide.


----------



## Laithan

Thanks! I found them now.. I tried everything I could think of... I didn't try searching for "comb" lol!


----------



## methadon36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Where can I get those plastic holder thingies? Must get those!!!


Performance PCs has them, they are cable combs. Just picked up a few a couple days ago when I ordered my Sleeved wires


----------



## Duke976

I hated the ones that PPC sells, they are too flimsy for my taste. I bought a couple of them for my build. Also, the cable comb clearance is too big for the braided cables of my AX1200i I am thinking of getting some cable combs from modmymods and hoping their combs are not too big for my cable needs.


----------



## kgtuning

Mainframe custom has a few variations of cable combs too.


----------



## Laithan

Ordered some








Thanks all!

Have a dumb question... My fan controller has 4 thermal sensor leads. I've got the thermal tape. Since all of my components are water cooled, I really don't need to monitor any temps inside the case... lol

Can anyone think of any good ideas to put these thermals sensors to use? Is there any way they can be used to monitor water temps?

You know, these kind...


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Ordered some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks all!
> 
> Have a dumb question... My fan controller has 4 thermal sensor leads. I've got the thermal tape. Since all of my components are water cooled, I really don't need to monitor any temps inside the case... lol
> 
> Can anyone think of any good ideas to put these thermals sensors to use? Is there any way they can be used to monitor water temps?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You know, these kind...


I wouldn't discount monitoring temps inside your case, especially since you are water cooled. Since you are lacking fans in spots like the CPU power area and potentially others, previously air cooled components like the VRMs and chipset may be running hotter than usual. You can usually just spot check this though and place sensors in any potential trouble spots you find. For me, I've got a little deadzone above my RAID cage, so I place a sensor there so I can monitor the temps. The other spot I really like is the intake/ambient temp from the front intake fans. Helpful in calculating delta.

As for water temps - sorta. This is how most of the inline water temp fittings work. They simply have a G1/4 pass through male to female connection with a plastic or rubber band that holds the thermocouple against the fitting to give an approximation of the inside water temp. You could easily mimic this by adhering the sensor to a metal part in contact with the water and insulating it from the outside air


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Ordered some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks all!
> 
> Have a dumb question... My fan controller has 4 thermal sensor leads. I've got the thermal tape. Since all of my components are water cooled, I really don't need to monitor any temps inside the case... lol
> 
> Can anyone think of any good ideas to put these thermals sensors to use? Is there any way they can be used to monitor water temps?
> 
> You know, these kind...


besides using them to have an idea of the ambient temp in your room you can also use them to have an idea of the water temp by placing it on the end tanks of the rads (especially if you don't mind scratching a bit the paint at the end tank). Knowing the ambient temp and water temp is useful to get an idea of the performance of your loop. Not sure what is your fan controller but some allow you to program the fans to ramp up or down according to the difference between ambient-water (aka Aquaero).


----------



## KiOWA

Updated photos of my rig:



*More shots:*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Cheers


----------



## BWAS1000

Trying to figure out whether or not this is Distilled or Deionised and if it will be fine for my loop. Help


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> I hated the ones that PPC sells, they are too flimsy for my taste. I bought a couple of them for my build. Also, the cable comb clearance is too big for the braided cables of my AX1200i I am thinking of getting some cable combs from modmymods and hoping their combs are not too big for my cable needs.


I got some from Dazmode. They seem quite good.


----------



## Laithan

Thanks all
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> Updated photos of my rig:
> 
> 
> 
> *More shots:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


Gorgeous!


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Ordered some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks all!
> 
> Have a dumb question... My fan controller has 4 thermal sensor leads. I've got the thermal tape. Since all of my components are water cooled, I really don't need to monitor any temps inside the case... lol
> 
> Can anyone think of any good ideas to put these thermals sensors to use? Is there any way they can be used to monitor water temps?
> 
> You know, these kind...


I just got a new fan controller and it has six thermal leads like this. You can either give the fan controller data from the air in your case or from the water.

What I did with the temp probes from the fan controller was put them over my top rad; when my water temp goes up, the air coming out of the rads gets hotter, and this tells the controller to spin the fans faster.

Alternatively you can buy an XSPC thermal probe with a G1/4" fitting and LCD display. $15 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NKTUFOE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

You can buy just the probe and plug without the display for like $8. You could either get one of those and plug it into the fan controller, or you can keep it separate with the LCD. Personally I like the LCD display.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out whether or not this is Distilled or Deionised and if it will be fine for my loop. Help


distilled, but it doesnt matter. distilled and deionized are basically the same


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out whether or not this is Distilled or Deionised and if it will be fine for my loop. Help
> 
> 
> 
> distilled, but it doesnt matter. distilled and deionized are basically the same
Click to expand...

Quote:

Distilled Water
"You can compare the deionized water vs distilled water, but to say that the distilled water is the same as deionized water is a mistake. The terms "distilled water" and "deionized water" are often misunderstood. In this article, you can find the explanation to understand the differences and similarities of these two different water cleaning technologies."
http://www.distilleddeionizedwater.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water/


----------



## Laithan

I ended up ordering one of these to try
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-silver-shiny-temperature-sensor-stop-fitting.html


----------



## FXformat

Im about to put these in, anyone have used them before can shed some light on how they like the fans? The rgb got me


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im about to put these in, anyone have used them before can shed some light on how they like the fans? The rgb got me


I haven't personally tried them but there is a very recent thread on here of a guy complaining about the CFM and maybe even light output, and quite a few people responding and say these fans don't flow worth a poop lol


----------



## FXformat

Lol that's terrible news. Well I got these for free for helping a friend out with car stuff so we will see how they do.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Distilled Water
> "You can compare the deionized water vs distilled water, but to say that the distilled water is the same as deionized water is a mistake. The terms "distilled water" and "deionized water" are often misunderstood. In this article, you can find the explanation to understand the differences and similarities of these two different water cleaning technologies."
> http://www.distilleddeionizedwater.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water/


for a water cooling loop, they are the same. we have been through this before.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Lol that's terrible news. Well I got these for free for helping a friend out with car stuff so we will see how they do.


check thermal bench dot commercial, I think VSG (aka @geggeg) did a review on them.


----------



## VSG

Not the RGB ones but they are the same aside from the LEDs and controllers. They are okay fans, based off the same Hong Sheng design that a dozen or so other fans are based off. If anyone got these for free, use them gladly.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Im about to put these in, anyone have used them before can shed some light on how they like the fans? The rgb got me


I've got 4 of the 140's on my UT60 280mm rad. They are fine. They push plenty of air volume and have decent static pressure. Probably my only complaint is that they get a bit wooshy at about 1000rpm. Love the lighting effect and the performance is plenty fine for the rad. These also supply updraft for my chassis and do an excellent job of it. There are substantially better options out there, but they are by no means bad or insufficient.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wow, I have more than a couple DDC pumps running and have never felt the need to put something under them. All of them have a bitspower or Ek heatsink with the little feet and really don't hear the pump.
> 
> TCO


ya, my 1st build. I was just going off the suggestions of the good ppl here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> ya, my 1st build. *I was just going off the suggestions of the good ppl here*.


No problem









TCO


----------



## abs1

Hi Guys long time lurker of this forum and have seen absolutely astounding watercooled rigs. And this inspired me to do a little build of my own in the matx form factor. This was my first attempt at a 16mm Rigid tube, I know this is pale in comparison to what exits here but here goes

Specs

Core i7 6700k
Asus maximus viii gene
8gbx2 Gskill Trident Z
Asus Poseidon 980Ti
Crucial Mx200 M.2 512GB Sata SSD
DELL S2716DG 27"
Corsair Strafe RGB Silent
Mionix Castor
Seasonic X750 Gold
Bitfenix Aegis White
6x Vardar Ek pwm 2200rpm All White fans

EK Watercooling loop

EK-Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm) White x6

EK-AF Extender 12mm F-F G1/4 - Nickel

EK-PLUG G1/4

EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 - Nickel

EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm)

EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM (10cm)

EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin)

EK-AF Extender 30mm M-F G1/4 - Nickel

EK-XRES 100 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite (incl. pump)

EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual)

EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit 10&12mm

EK-AF T-Splitter 3F G1/4 - Nickel

EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Nickel

EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 500mm (2 pcs)

EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL) x2

EK-HDC Fitting 16mm G1/4 - White x15

EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)

LED 3mm TWIN ULTRA WHITE

LED 3mm TWIN ULTRA RED

EK-Supremacy EVO RED Edition

EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Nickel x2

EK-AF Angled 2×45° G1/4 Nickel x5

And Finally some pics































Temps

After Firestrike ultra, Heaven and ASUS realbench benchmark @STOCK

CPU 53 Degrees
GPU 51 Degrees

Manual Pwm Fan profile. 800-1450 Rpm.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abs1*
> 
> /snip


Hey, lovely looking build but why are all the fans exhausts?


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Hey, lovely looking build but why are all the fans exhausts?


Looks maybe


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Hey, lovely looking build but why are all the fans exhausts?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Looks maybe


I thought it wasn't recommended to go with all exhaust because you starve the case of airflow resulting in loss of airflow for the rads, not only that but you're sucking in air and dust from all the cracks and openings in the case itself?


----------



## Laithan

Would make sense if he leaves case open... I always leave my case open anyway.


----------



## abs1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Hey, lovely looking build but why are all the fans exhausts?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Looks maybe


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I thought it wasn't recommended to go with all exhaust because you starve the case of airflow resulting in loss of airflow for the rads, not only that but you're sucking in air and dust from all the cracks and openings in the case itself?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Would make sense if he leaves case open... I always leave my case open anyway.


Yes pretty much aesthetics, that why we have you humble folks to help noobs like me, I always enjoy constructive criticism. So what would you guys suggest? rotate the 3 front fans as intake perhaps ?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abs1*
> 
> Yes pretty much aesthetics, that why we have you humble folks to help noobs like me, I always enjoy constructive criticism. So what would you guys suggest? rotate the 3 front fans as intake perhaps ?


Yeah, I would flip the top 2 and rear as intake and leave the front as exhaust, reason being your rear fan has no restriction so you will have more positive pressure this way, it will help reduce dust build up.


----------



## abs1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah, I would flip the top 2 and rear as intake and leave the front as exhaust, reason being your rear fan has no restriction so you will have more positive pressure this way, it will help reduce dust build up.


Thanks Ill give that a go.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> for a water cooling loop, they are the same. we have been through this before.


He was probably taking you post literally as you do to many others in this thread. You're still wrong regardless of how you look at it, they aren't the same although they are both suitable for a loop that much is correct. We can use milk and other fluids if we so desire.


----------



## pc-illiterate

flip all your rad fans to intake. no rad starving and no dust buildup to speak of. added benefit of no recycled case air.
but an absolutely beautiful build.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> He was probably taking you post literally as you do to many others in this thread. You're still wrong regardless of how you look at it, they aren't the same although they are both suitable for a loop that much is correct. We can use milk and other fluids if we so desire.


If you're referring to me, then no I'm aware Distilled and deionised are different . I just wanted to know if they were loop suitable since some people say otherwise, which to me makes no sense with my Chemistry background (CSEC/O level, currently doing CAPE/A Level)


----------



## bluej511

Noob on the site but here's my finished build. I have to say the EK ZM tubing looks BADASS in all black. I didn't feel like hard tubing (yet) and personally like the stealth sleeper look. Ive got my bottom fans pulling air out thru the bottom and the top fan pushing air thru out the top. Ive got one 140mm exhaust over the gpx block and one in the read. 2 stock intake fans coming in. Got about a 9-10°C water delta for those who care haha.

P.S. Imm about 2 months into watercooling. Swapped this from my other case to this new one with new tubing, so pretty much built 2 rigs watercooled in 2 months haha.



And night shot with the Enermax LEDs lighting it up.


AND YES I AM USING DISTILLED WATER AS IT IS DIFFERENT FROM DIONIZED WATER haha. Using Mayhems biocide as well. The res doesnt see much sunlight.


----------



## abs1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> flip all your rad fans to intake. no rad starving and no dust buildup to speak of. added benefit of no recycled case air.
> but an absolutely beautiful build.


Thanks for the kind words, yes ill give that a go as well, thank you.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Noob on the site but here's my finished build. I have to say the EK ZM tubing looks BADASS in all black. I didn't feel like hard tubing (yet) and personally like the stealth sleeper look. Ive got my bottom fans pulling air out thru the bottom and the top fan pushing air thru out the top. Ive got one 140mm exhaust over the gpx block and one in the read. 2 stock intake fans coming in. Got about a 9-10°C water delta for those who care haha.
> 
> P.S. Imm about 2 months into watercooling. Swapped this from my other case to this new one with new tubing, so pretty much built 2 rigs watercooled in 2 months haha.
> 
> 
> 
> And night shot with the Enermax LEDs lighting it up.
> 
> 
> AND YES I AM USING DISTILLED WATER AS IT IS DIFFERENT FROM DIONIZED WATER haha. Using Mayhems biocide as well. The res doesnt see much sunlight.


Liking that build, but not recognising the case(on mobile, can't see SIG BTW)
What is it?


----------



## Questors

Found two leaks using heavier soap/water solution. One leak around the perpendicular part of the brass T and the other at the bleed port on the end of an XT-480. I forgot about the bleed ports until today.









I know I said three times that I tested the air testing assembly and I did. It seemed logical to test the tester. Frankly, I don't know what to say about it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







In the process of modifying the test assembly and getting my $9.00 back for the faulty T.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Liking that build, but not recognising the case(on mobile, can't see SIG BTW)
> What is it?


Oh that is the new Core X5 from Thermaltake. I know they have a bad rep its def not Corsair or Phanteks quality but i loved the space and how everything can be modded. It took me at least a dozen ideas of where to mount everything. The res is only mounted by 2 screws to the e-atx extension bar but makes absolutely ZERO noise whatsoever, even if i stick my ear right next to the window at 75% speed.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Found two leaks using heavier soap/water solution. One leak around the perpendicular part of the brass T and the other at the bleed port on the end of an XT-480. I forgot about the bleed ports until today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said three times that I tested the air testing assembly and I did. It seemed logical to test the tester. Frankly, I don't know what to say about it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the process of modifying the test assembly and getting my $9.00 back for the faulty T.


Just a noob but you could try teflon/pipe tape. I used to use it on my bleeder screws on my motorcycle as they would seep quite badly. And remember to wrap it opposite of thread direction haha. If fitting screws in clockwise wrap the tape counter.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Noob on the site but here's my finished build. Ive got my bottom fans pulling air out thru the bottom and the top fan pushing air thru out the top. Ive got one 140mm exhaust over the gpx block and one in the read. 2 stock intake fans coming in. Got about a 9-10°C water delta for those who care haha.
> 
> P.S. Imm about 2 months into watercooling. Swapped this from my other case to this new one with new tubing, so pretty much built 2 rigs watercooled in 2 months haha.
> 
> 
> 
> AND YES I AM USING DISTILLED WATER AS IT IS DIFFERENT FROM DIONIZED WATER haha. Using Mayhems biocide as well. The res doesnt see much sunlight.


swap your fans over also. 7 exhaust fans(5 on rads) and 2 intake fans dont work near as well as rads intaking. its not even a balanced flow system.
and god are those noctua fans ugly and almost average on rads.
and as far as a loop goes, the waters are the same.
derp


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Oh that is the new Core X5 from Thermaltake. I know they have a bad rep its def not Corsair or Phanteks quality but i loved the space and how everything can be modded. It took me at least a dozen ideas of where to mount everything. The res is only mounted by 2 screws to the e-atx extension bar but makes absolutely ZERO noise whatsoever, even if i stick my ear right next to the window at 75% speed.


That's a nice system you have there. I'm just doing something basic and waiting for the rest of my parts. Waiting for university to do anything serious. And that has me eager.


----------



## pc-illiterate

you quoted the wrong person bwas...


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you quoted the wrong person bwas...


What do you mean by not well balanced loop?

I had the bottom fans as intakes before and it seemed to run warmer then before. Its not like they're pulling air out of the case though u can barely feel it putting your hand on the rad. But i get what you're saying. Its not too much of a pain to switch em back over so i might give it a shot.


----------



## wermad

I had a fully loaded almost ready to burst x9. Dont use the bottom as intake, i had a huge jump in temps.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had a fully loaded almost ready to burst x9. Dont use the bottom as intake, i had a huge jump in temps.


So i should leave it the way i have it now according to you or should i switch em like PC suggesting having em blow air thru the rad into the case?

To me it seems like it would blow warm air into the case and eventually over the top rad which would just blow hot air thru the rad and not cool as efficiently. Or am i wrong in that theory?

Like i said i might add a fan or 2 up top to blow some air in. I had one on the other side blowing air in but it was just sucking up all the hot air form the bottom rad fans haha.


----------



## bluej511

I should add that on the other side of the case i can mount 3 120mm fans. Im thinking of switching the rear fan as an intake and adding 2 up top as intakes would that work better? Id leave the bottom pulling out though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Distilled and DI are fundamentally different in their making and result.

But for our use? They dont have any distinguishing characteristics over each other and are often referred to as either/or

Lets move on shall we?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you quoted the wrong person bwas...


I'll fix that. I'm tired, and I was on the mobile site. Which I dislike highly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And the results of the first WCCROTM!

Judges were Fast Fate,Costas and Wermad.
Quote:


> My vote in this month's WCC MOTM went to eucalyptus' TriStellar Build. It has a unique loop largely due to the case which the loop is built around, almost literally. Joining 2 XSPC Photon reservoirs lengthwise was not something I had not seen done previously and he finished off the custom res' with a crisp white paint job. Well placed lighting shows off the technical bends of the hard-line tubing which have been complimented by some stealth modding of Monsoon light-ports. The build has the look some sort of futurist spacecraft or perhaps something from a medical lab, either way a great build and deserved of recognition.
> 
> fast_fate
> March 2016


Quote:


> I took a break from computers in 2001 and returned in 2009 finding a totally different scene than before. Cooling had made huge leaps by way of many new and exciting options. With so many great choices, wouldn't it be nice to have many of your favorites into one? Well, Orbitalwalsh has done such a build with "Blooded Panda". Combining the classic looks of a "turbine" style gpu cooler, with a stealthy universal gpu block is stirring. Though, the biggest departure of "Blooded Panda" is a huge Phanteks cpu cooler. Clearly, a combination worthy of praise from all factions of cooling!
> http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1459031/g1-4-6-twin-turbo-completed/
> -wermad


Quote:


> Ecalyptus - Deep Cool Tristellar case build
> 
> One thing about this build that strikes me right away is that the Deep Cool Tristellar case would generally not be regarded as a primary choice when it comes to choosing a case for a custom water cooled build.
> 
> While it inherently has a unique shape, it does lack dedicated room for a number of custom water cooling components such as reservoirs, pumps and the like tha custom modders always like to utilise. However Ecalyptus has displayed some clever initiative to overcome a number of these these hurdles.
> 
> One of the very first features that greets your eyes is the seamless execution of the longitudinal placement of the reservoirs either side of the case. Here Ecalyptus has come up with a unique idea to modify and combine an XSPC Photon/D5 combo with a standalone Photon reservoir.
> 
> By using custom interlocking fittings (made from cutdown M20 <> G1/4" adaptors mated with a simple male to male G1/4" fitting) it allows for the two units to be combined and form one large element. By placing two of these modified units on either side of the case it provides a symmetrical finish to the overall build.
> 
> Another standout feature is the attention to detail. From the obvious cues of green sleeved wiring, the build also features a number of tubing runs which are not simply 'bent' to get to where they need to go but are shaped to also mimic the angular lines of the case.
> 
> By choosing a white and green theme Ecalyptus has had to paint a number of individual components - not least all the individual components that make up the complex reservoir arrangement.
> Again we can see where attention to detail was of concern where the white/green theme has been applied to not only the graphics card block but also the SSD covers which complete the rear of the graphics card assembly and form the top of the case.
> 
> IMO it is worthy of a winning vote for Feburary's MOTM.
> 
> Costas


The overall vote went to Eucalyptus with the mention given for the GPU mod which showed an attention to detail.

Well done Eucalyptus!


----------



## FXformat

Installed the ThermalTake RGB Fans, and a bitspower drain valve...so far so good on the fans, dead silent and it moves a lot of air. Will see how they stand the test of time.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had a fully loaded almost ready to burst x9. Dont use the bottom as intake, i had a huge jump in temps.


you always gotta be different in your life dont you? lol. it would take you to find the best way to be the worst way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> So i should leave it the way i have it now according to you or should i switch em like PC suggesting having em blow air thru the rad into the case?
> 
> To me it seems like it would blow warm air into the case and eventually over the top rad which would just blow hot air thru the rad and not cool as efficiently. Or am i wrong in that theory?
> 
> Like i said i might add a fan or 2 up top to blow some air in. I had one on the other side blowing air in but it was just sucking up all the hot air form the bottom rad fans haha.
> I should add that on the other side of the case i can mount 3 120mm fans. Im thinking of switching the rear fan as an intake and adding 2 up top as intakes would that work better? Id leave the bottom pulling out though.


if wermad had the same type of case and the preferred method doesnt work, listen to him. if people can show you the conventional way is bad, do it their way.
if the top rad was intaking, it couldnt blow warm air from the case through the top rad, could it?
you definitely need more air coming in than going out if youre going to run your side panels.make sure youre not pulling warm air back in though. this is why i would never have a case with an exhaust bottom rad. that warmed air will rise back up to the intake fans. why not have both rads at the top? is the gpu in the way?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I'll fix that. I'm tired, and I was on the mobile site. Which I dislike highly.


i visit the forums in desktop view on my phone as i also hate the mobile version.


----------



## rck1984

The leak-test was successful and the system is up and running again now








Immensely satisfied with the result:


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> The leak-test was successful and the system is up and running again now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Immensely satisfied with the result:


Damn now that is CLEAN. The ek zm tubing was tighter for me then the masterkleer i couldnt tighten the fitting all the way which is a good thing.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you always gotta be different in your life dont you? lol. it would take you to find the best way to be the worst way.
> if wermad had the same type of case and the preferred method doesnt work, listen to him. if people can show you the conventional way is bad, do it their way.
> if the top rad was intaking, it couldnt blow warm air from the case through the top rad, could it?
> you definitely need more air coming in than going out if youre going to run your side panels.make sure youre not pulling warm air back in though. this is why i would never have a case with an exhaust bottom rad. that warmed air will rise back up to the intake fans. why not have both rads at the top? is the gpu in the way?
> i visit the forums in desktop view on my phone as i also hate the mobile version.


pc, i would but the gpu is passively cooled it would just seep ridiculously hot air right into the rad even if i had it as a push into the case way. If the top rad fans was set as a push into the case it would make all the warm air go into the case eventually into the bottom rad no?

I just quickly added 2 120mms on the top as intakes seems to have help a bit. I might just pick up 3 high flowing fans and stick up there and blow more air into the case. It doesnt seem to be pulling the warm air from the rad exhausting next to it so seems ok. Everything is filtered on the case so not worried about dust.

Appreciate the help though very much so.


----------



## gree

Anybody know how tight ur suppouse to tighten a 2011-3 (heatkiller iv)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Anybody know how tight ur suppouse to tighten a 2011-3 (heatkiller iv)


Until the mounting posts run out of thread. The Heatkiller IV has precise mounting now.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Until the mounting posts run out of thread. The Heatkiller IV has precise mounting now.


I think i got it to the bottom of the thread





Btw how do people normally put thier d5/res in? Im hoping i dont need to drill my case


----------



## Shawnf77

I should of posted in this thread a long time ago. Don't know where my head has been.


----------



## ocdream

all3.jpg 451k .jpg file


leaktest.jpg 1007k .jpg file


heres my setup I have the air 540 case as well though it doesnt look nearly as good as the guy aboves does lol it's modest but it keeps my cpu cool wish there was a 380x block out I would do the gpu as well


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocdream*
> 
> all3.jpg 451k .jpg file
> 
> 
> leaktest.jpg 1007k .jpg file
> 
> 
> heres my setup I have the air 540 case as well though it doesnt look nearly as good as the guy aboves does lol it's modest but it keeps my cpu cool wish there was a 380x block out I would do the gpu as well


Alphacool prob makes one its just not what most people are looking for.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> I think i got it to the bottom of the thread
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw how do people normally put thier d5/res in? Im hoping i dont need to drill my case


Oh boy that block is so shiny I instantly want it! NICE!


----------



## fast_fate

My happy snap of the day









Got unexpected detail even through the packaging


----------



## ocdream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Alphacool prob makes one its just not what most people are looking for.


I looked at that one but it looked like it was more like a gpu block with heat sink plate which would be fine for for ram but the vrms and gpu get hot hot on this card ill have to look for reviews because if it is better then I think it's worth it to me I dont need fancy shiny stuff I i just the best cooling I can get and this gpu cooler works but there must be something better. wish I had a cnc.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocdream*
> 
> I looked at that one but it looked like it was more like a gpu block with heat sink plate which would be fine for for ram but the vrms and gpu get hot hot on this card ill have to look for reviews because if it is better then I think it's worth it to me I dont need fancy shiny stuff I i just the best cooling I can get and this gpu cooler works but there must be something better. wish I had a cnc.


I bought it for the r9 390 which gets quite hotter then the r9 380x, my core stays around 40C or so and my VRMs have always been under 70C, thats with it running in a Core X5 with only 2 intake fans, i added 2 more tonight and it bought the temps down even more for the VRMs. Its like getting an ek thermosphere and adding lil heatsinks on it except this works remarkably well. You can even get dif thermal pads and prob even drop it more.


----------



## ocdream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I bought it for the r9 390 which gets quite hotter then the r9 380x, my core stays around 40C or so and my VRMs have always been under 70C, thats with it running in a Core X5 with only 2 intake fans, i added 2 more tonight and it bought the temps down even more for the VRMs. Its like getting an ek thermosphere and adding lil heatsinks on it except this works remarkably well. You can even get dif thermal pads and prob even drop it more.


nice ill try to find one. aquatuning has one but the pics of it have extra mounting screw than my card has. mine has the 4 for the gpu and 7 more the pic show gpu plus 9 more. maybe its a pic of the m02 version which should have the 9 holes not 7


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocdream*
> 
> nice ill try to find one. aquatuning has one but the pics of it have extra mounting screw than my card has. mine has the 4 for the gpu and 7 more the pic show gpu plus 9 more. maybe its a pic of the m02 version which should have the 9 holes not 7


Yea just check the alphacool pdf for your specific card then order by that. The list for AMD cards is massive, and because of the custom pcbs for the r9 390 and r9 290 theres different heatsinks. The r9 290 m10 looked like it would fit but the dvi internal ports on the 290 aren't as wide as the r9 390 so wouldn't fit. If i knew i was gonna end up watercooling would have bought a reference pcb and ek gpu block but oh well.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Making progress...



-Jeffinslaw


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> My happy snap of the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got unexpected detail even through the packaging


These are the fittings I use! Tired of the red though. They only go well with White coolant (at least I think so).


----------



## kl6mk6

Took my Supremacy EVO apart to put in new jet plates for x99 upgrade. This is after a year with distilled plus Primochill Liquid Utopia. It cleaned up very well with mild dish soap and water with a tooth brush. I forgot to take a cleaned picture, but it was like new again.



As far as the difference between distilled and de-ionized waters, the only things you need to consider is that the de-ionized water is expensive and it is not consumable. So if you are on a budged *or* have people in your house who may accidentally drink it, don't get de-ionized and stick with distilled.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> So i should leave it the way i have it now according to you or should i switch em like PC suggesting having em blow air thru the rad into the case?
> 
> To me it seems like it would blow warm air into the case and eventually over the top rad which would just blow hot air thru the rad and not cool as efficiently. Or am i wrong in that theory?
> 
> Like i said i might add a fan or 2 up top to blow some air in. I had one on the other side blowing air in but it was just sucking up all the hot air form the bottom rad fans haha.


With the x9, the bottom was setup for exhaust and that corrected my temp rise.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I should add that on the other side of the case i can mount 3 120mm fans. Im thinking of switching the rear fan as an intake and adding 2 up top as intakes would that work better? Id leave the bottom pulling out though.


If it has the side mount similar to the X9, that would be a better option.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you always gotta be different in your life dont you? lol. it would take you to find the best way to be the worst way.
> if wermad had the same type of case and the preferred method doesnt work, listen to him. if people can show you the conventional way is bad, do it their way.
> if the top rad was intaking, it couldnt blow warm air from the case through the top rad, could it?
> you definitely need more air coming in than going out if youre going to run your side panels.make sure youre not pulling warm air back in though. this is why i would never have a case with an exhaust bottom rad. that warmed air will rise back up to the intake fans. why not have both rads at the top? is the gpu in the way?
> i visit the forums in desktop view on my phone as i also hate the mobile version.


Ty









I took the x9 to some serious wc heights, so I had little to no direction since no one had done this before. But, tbh, I do that with all my builds. I do consult and look for inspiration from others mainly for technical advice.


----------



## MIGhunter

Ok, a little noobie help please. I have 2 issues.

1. the CPU plug on my MB is at the very top of the MB. I didn't think to plug it in because I wanted to leak test it without power! Now I have a radiator sitting in front of it. Any suggestions on how to plug it in now?


2. My PSU is pretty close to my pump. Would I be better off running the cable around or should I turn my PSU upside down so that it's kinda behind the pump?
Here's a photo of it:


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> With the x9, the bottom was setup for exhaust and that corrected my temp rise.
> If it has the side mount similar to the X9, that would be a better option.
> Ty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the x9 to some serious wc heights, so I had little to no direction since no one had done this before. But, tbh, I do that with all my builds. I do consult and look for inspiration from others mainly for technical advice.


Wermad so i took your advice left the bottom one as exhaust. I cant use the side fan bracket as i have my psu on the opposite side. I mounted the 240 up front this morning and now have that as a push/pull, pushing air into the rad pulling it out into the case. We'll see if it makes a difference. I also have both rads in succession instead of cpu>rad>gpu>rad>res, its now going res>cpu>gpu>rad>rad.

Thanks for the help guys appreciate it, i also added 2 120mm fans as intakes up top and a 140mm intake up top. I now have 5 intake fans and 4 exhaust fans.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Ok, a little noobie help please. I have 2 issues.
> 
> 1. the CPU plug on my MB is at the very top of the MB. I didn't think to plug it in because I wanted to leak test it without power! Now I have a radiator sitting in front of it. Any suggestions on how to plug it in now?
> 
> 
> 2. My PSU is pretty close to my pump. Would I be better off running the cable around or should I turn my PSU upside down so that it's kinda behind the pump?
> Here's a photo of it:


The benefits of having a backup power supply sitting around. You can use it for leak testing and running the loop until fully ready.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Ok, a little noobie help please. I have 2 issues.
> 
> 1. the CPU plug on my MB is at the very top of the MB. I didn't think to plug it in because I wanted to leak test it without power! Now I have a radiator sitting in front of it. Any suggestions on how to plug it in now?
> 
> 
> 2. My PSU is pretty close to my pump. Would I be better off running the cable around or should I turn my PSU upside down so that it's kinda behind the pump?
> Here's a photo of it:


Can you reach it from the back of the case? I was thinking something on the lines sticking your fingers through the opening with the power supply cable and trying to plug it in that way. I guess it depends on how close the rad is to the board though.


----------



## emsj86

I did the same with mine. But with bending the cable at the connection (gold it on itself) than long needle nose pliers worked for me. It was still hard because I was doing it basically blind. That or if your soft tubing it. Just loosen up the rad. If not may have to drain it. For the psu. My Phanteks case had just as much if not less and I just ran the cable me in front of the pump. It was tight burnt worked just fine


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Can you reach it from the back of the case? I was thinking something on the lines sticking your fingers through the opening with the power supply cable and trying to plug it in that way. I guess it depends on how close the rad is to the board though.


Ended up getting it, had to take a fan off my rad and that gave me enough wiggle room.

Another question now. I bought a SATA 8 way fan splitter



The red plug is Channel 1, what's the significance of that? Should I plug my pump into it along with my fans or should I plug the pump somewhere else? Finally, does it matter matter what fan header I plug it into? Just plug it into any 4 pin chassis fan slot?

Here's an updated photo with some cables running!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Whatever you plug in channel 1 will determine what the RPM reads, that is all I believe


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Ended up getting it, had to take a fan off my rad and that gave me enough wiggle room.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Another question now. I bought a SATA 8 way fan splitter
> 
> 
> 
> The red plug is Channel 1, what's the significance of that? Should I plug my pump into it along with my fans or should I plug the pump somewhere else? Finally, does it matter matter what fan header I plug it into? Just plug it into any 4 pin chassis fan slot?
> 
> Here's an updated photo with some cables running!


channel 1 is the only one reporting rpm. the others don't report.


----------



## RnRollie

Is your pump PWM control?

The Swiftech 8-way comes with a Spanish Waiter instructions that says that the red is the one you connect the "reference" fan to.. the only RPM feedback signal that will be used

The PWM signal from the CPU_HEADER will be used by ALL PWM fans, but only ONE Fan/device is allowed to report back the RPMs its running at.

It might or might not be the best way to make it all work to plug teh Pump into the red header... you should try and "play around" abit to see the effect.

The thing is that the pump might run at at speed with doesnt sit well with the fans or vice-versa... so trying some difference setups and testing the reaction to changing the PWM signal 30% , 40%, 50%, 80%

But just to be sure: are ALL you fans AND the Pump 4-wire PWM fans ?


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Whatever you plug in channel 1 will determine what the RPM reads, that is all I believe


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> channel 1 is the only one reporting rpm. the others don't report.


Thanks. So, I probably shouldn't plug the pump into that then huh. Like I said earlier, this is my 1st WC build, not sure how to adjust the pump speed.


----------



## RnRollie

it might be ok to have the pump there, just need to test how it goes
the little 4-pin cable goes on the CPU_FAN header on the Motherboard... and you plug everything else which is PWM into the splitter .

You can use SpeedFan to "play with curves" , although it is not very user friendly
Open Hardware Monitor allows you to change the speed % by right clicking on the reported fan .. no setup of curves here... but it allows you to get a feel for what happens if you fix your speed to 60% or 40%

Ideally, since everything is now controlled by CPU_FAN1, you set reference in the BIOS of the Motherboard - some allow a real curve, others a basic ramp, others are basic.

In you typical basic BIOS, you set for example Max Temp 45`C and Min Speed 10% (or 20% or 30% or setting 1 of 10)
As of then the BIOS will do the rest.. if the CPU temp goes up, so does the speed of the attached pump & fans

Very basic/rudimentary, but it works very well actually









Once THAT is running, then you start playing around with SpeedFan until you never want to hear the work SpeedFan ever again since it really it is not very user friendly ... its very good, although a bit outdated, but not very user friendly. But it works.. compared to Corsair link, which does look good, but is utter crap


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> it might be ok to have the pump there, just need to test how it goes
> the little 4-pin cable goes on the CPU_FAN header on the Motherboard... and you plug everything else which is PWM into the splitter .
> 
> You can use SpeedFan to "play with curves" , although it is not very user friendly
> Open Hardware Monitor allows you to change the speed % by right clicking on the reported fan .. no setup of curves here... but it allows you to get a feel for what happens if you fix your speed to 60% or 40%
> 
> Ideally, since everything is now controlled by CPU_FAN1, you set reference in the BIOS of the Motherboard - some allow a real curve, others a basic ramp, others are basic.
> 
> In you typical basic BIOS, you set for example Max Temp 45`C and Min Speed 10% (or 20% or 30% or setting 1 of 10)
> As of then the BIOS will do the rest.. if the CPU temp goes up, so does the speed of the attached pump & fans
> 
> Very basic/rudimentary, but it works very well actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once THAT is running, then you start playing around with SpeedFan until you never want to hear the work SpeedFan ever again since it really it is not very user friendly ... its very good, although a bit outdated, but not very user friendly. But it works.. compared to Corsair link, which does look good, but is utter crap


so, should I hook my pump up to it along with the fans and then everything into CPU_FAN1 or should I put the pump into CPU_FAN1 and then all the fans into CHA_FAN1 or the pump into CHA_FAN1 and then the fans into CPU_FAN1?


----------



## Gabrielzm

details of your fans and pump will help. Are they all PWM controlled? Assuming they are, quite often the only pwm capable headers on the MBs are the cpu ones (not always but often enough). So, swiftech splitter will go to cpu fan header and you will need to choose whether fan or pump would go to channel 1 since fans and pump obviously have different rpms and noise curves....


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> details of your fans and pump will help. Are they all PWM controlled? Assuming they are, quite often the only pwm capable headers on the MBs are the cpu ones (not always but often enough). So, swiftech splitter will go to cpu fan header and you will need to choose whether fan or pump would go to channel 1 since fans and pump obviously have different rpms and noise curves....


It's the EKWB extreme kit so it has the varder fans and the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition pump. All I did was add a second rad, the gpu block and red tubing.


----------



## RnRollie

Allright, you're golden then

Splitter on CPU_FAN1 and then its experimenting on what would be the best for channel 1 : either the pump, or a fan ... general noise levels may vary depending on who's "master"

Its probably not a good idea to let the pump go "too low", so i guess its gonna end up as the master


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Interesting comment about the Corsair link,I have used a few of them and have had a problem free experience. They do read speeds a bit low but everything else works.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Took my Supremacy EVO apart to put in new jet plates for x99 upgrade. This is after a year with distilled plus Primochill Liquid Utopia. It cleaned up very well with mild dish soap and water with a tooth brush. I forgot to take a cleaned picture, but it was like new again.
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the difference between distilled and de-ionized waters, the only things you need to consider is that the de-ionized water is expensive and it is not consumable. So if you are on a budged *or* have people in your house who may accidentally drink it, don't get de-ionized and stick with distilled.


For me in the UK De-Ionized water is easier and from the last time I looked, cheaper than Distilled so I use De-Ionized instead.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting comment about the Corsair link,I have used a few of them and have had a problem free experience. They do read speeds a bit low but everything else works.


I've had my corsair link for a little under a year now (maybe less, I can't remember lol). No problems what so ever. Controls 7 EK Vardars (4 140ERs and 3 120ERs), and my Swiftech D5 PWM pump. I tried to controll my XSPC PWM pump, but it doesn't work well with it. Something with the "Intel standard something" that I keep hearing from diva. But I just control it fine on my ASUS mobo.

Edit* the only thing I dislike is the lowest speeds of 40%


----------



## fast_fate

Slight re-vamp of the fittings pressure tester











and my happy snap of the day


----------



## emsj86

So what our you guys using to fill the system with air when leak testing. I have nitrogen but figure that would be to easy to go above 10 psi even with a regulator. I'm assuming a bike pump? Also not sure if it would work but its what I use on a daily at work. Would a vacuum pump with a micron gauge work or even without a micron guage (just would have to let it sit to see if the pressure rises) or would that be too much for a system to handle. (I ask because I have all this on hand and I'm curious too)


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So what our you guys using to fill the system with air when leak testing. I have nitrogen but figure that would be to easy to go above 10 psi even with a regulator. I'm assuming a bike pump? Also not sure if it would work but its what I use on a daily at work. Would a vacuum pump with a micron gauge work or even without a micron guage (just would have to let it sit to see if the pressure rises) or would that be too much for a system to handle. (I ask because I have all this on hand and I'm curious too)


Couldn't using a pump blow out your rubber gaskets as it created pressure? Maybe this is fine to do but IMO I would be afraid to blow seals/gaskets inside the pump, blocks and other things.

If this is totally safe to do, I'll learn something I guess but sounds dangerous to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Rad box for the 901 is done.....structurally anyway,detail bits to come....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So what our you guys using to fill the system with air when leak testing. I have nitrogen but figure that would be to easy to go above 10 psi even with a regulator. I'm assuming a bike pump? Also not sure if it would work but its what I use on a daily at work. Would a vacuum pump with a micron gauge work or even without a micron guage (just would have to let it sit to see if the pressure rises) or would that be too much for a system to handle. (I ask because I have all this on hand and I'm curious too)


Either would work but vacuum would have the seals working in the opposite working direction,vacuum fittings for example are rated in +/- terms.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


m-ITX? I need to get one together too. Which Silverstone case are you using?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Rad box for the 901 is done.....structurally anyway,detail bits to come....


That is looking good! Keep it up! I also like how your pc is sitting on your toolbox...


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Making progress...
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> m-ITX? I need to get one together too. Which Silverstone case are you using?
Click to expand...

It's mATX and that case is my own custom designed case







Project mATX, link is in the sig!


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> so, should I hook my pump up to it along with the fans and then everything into CPU_FAN1 or should I put the pump into CPU_FAN1 and then all the fans into CHA_FAN1 or the pump into CHA_FAN1 and then the fans into CPU_FAN1?


Put your EK pump in the CH.1 of your Swiftech splitter and the rest of the fans goes to the remaining port of the splitter, then to CPU_FAN1. That way, as the temp rises so does your pump speed and fan speed. That's how i control my custom loop with the same splitter.


----------



## arrow0309

Wanna share some photos with my new (updated) rig








It's all in my sig


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Wanna share some photos with my new (updated) rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all in my sig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics


It's amazing how talented everyone here is. I haven't seen a "mediocre" example posted yet.









VERY nice rig!

Entertaining thread for sure and informative.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> It's amazing how talented everyone here is. I haven't seen a "mediocre" example posted yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VERY nice rig!
> 
> Entertaining thread for sure and informative.


Thanks mate, you're here as well?








So, did you post some pics with your new system too?
Cause I wanna see


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> That is looking good! Keep it up! I also like how your pc is sitting on your toolbox...


Thats my build box,all rigs get built on that box,the storage underneath is good for all the ancillary crap that collects....


----------



## BabylonDown

Just a quick question guys..

Can I use XSPC 1/4 x 3/4 compression fittings and tubing in parallel to plumb my Tri 290x's together in GPU slots 1-3?

Will it fit?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> It's amazing how talented everyone here is. I haven't seen a "mediocre" example posted yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VERY nice rig!
> 
> Entertaining thread for sure and informative.


you obviously didnt run across my pics then.

heres whats waiting for blocks to get here...


----------



## bluej511

Haha yea mine is far from talented as well, even though i tallied it up its up to a tiny bit over 2000€ its far from talent lol.

Heres mine with the fans as exhausts on the rad, ive since moved the 240 up front and put those fans up there as intakes, unfortunately it doesn't light up nearly as much as the LEDs are set to face outwards (up outside the case in my case)


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Thanks mate, you're here as well?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did you post some pics with your new system too?
> Cause I wanna see


Lol yah they apparently let just anyone walk in here









I will be posting my pics of shame pretty soon.. I'm so not worthy.. LMAO. Maybe it won't be as bad as I think. I was hoping to finish my build and start leak testing tonight but the overnight parts I ordered Saturday won't be here until tomorrow.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you obviously didnt run across my pics then.
> 
> heres whats waiting for blocks to get here...


Umm... I mean it's... well it has... It's really not that... ok dats fugly! LMAO

Although I think you technically have to have at least a case of some kind otherwise it's a test bench.









Motherboard boxes for a test bench is so classic..


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Haha yea mine is far from talented as well, even though i tallied it up its up to a tiny bit over 2000€ its far from talent lol.
> 
> Heres mine with the fans as exhausts on the rad, ive since moved the 240 up front and put those fans up there as intakes, unfortunately it doesn't light up nearly as much as the LEDs are set to face outwards (up outside the case in my case)


The glare on the window makes it look like the loop is splashing water all over the GPU and mobo.

I know most people don't really like the Alphacool blocks, but I think they have a nice ascetic if your going for all blacked out look.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> The glare on the window makes it look like the loop is splashing water all over the GPU and mobo.
> 
> I know most people don't really like the Alphacool blocks, but I think they have a nice ascetic if your going for all blacked out look.


Yea quite pissed i wiped it once with my mf towel and it left micro scratches all over, either cheap plexi or my towel was a lil dirty. Need to find a way to polish em off again. Theres WAY less light now that i switched the fans but im happy with the block. Same VRM temps then my r9 390 nitro that had 3 fans blowing right on the heatsink this has 2 fan above it and its a few degrees cooler. If i add a fan blowing right down the length of the fins should be even cooler. The pads tht come with it are also 3w/mK so can even lower em more but we'll see. My core reaches 40°C and VRMs around mid 60s.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Umm... I mean it's... well it has... It's really not that... ok dats fugly! LMAO
> 
> Although I think you technically have to have at least a case of some kind otherwise it's a test bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Motherboard boxes for a test bench is so classic..


same case as last build. this is a full atx board in this thing. the case is a monster so i needed an xl-atx to kinda fill it more. need an sr2 mobo...



*EDIT* - thats a psu box


----------



## gree

Silly question but how do i mount my fans above the rad?

Im suppouse to install the rad on a fan bracket


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Silly question but how do i mount my fans above the rad?
> 
> Im suppouse to install the rad on a fan bracket


Put the fan on the radiator, then the bracket on the fan then screw thru the bracket, the fan then into the rad. Screws should be just long enough.


----------



## gree

I dont have a screw that can fit through all three, i would just use a scrw for the bracket to fan and another from the fan to the rad but i cant figure out how to get it in and tighten it


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> I dont have a screw that can fit through all three, i would just use a scrw for the bracket to fan and another from the fan to the rad but i cant figure out how to get it in and tighten it


You could do that as well but ud need a screwdriver that fits thru the fan holes. All you need is a 30mm 6-32 or m3 screw should fit thru the fan and bracket with ease. If not youd have to get a 35mm. This is the best way as your fan mounting holes themselves wouldnt be supporting the radiator weight. Think of it this way, if oyu mount from the fan to the rad on one side the rad would only be supported by one side of the fan instead of the entire thing. Id just get slightly longer screws.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> I dont have a screw that can fit through all three, i would just use a scrw for the bracket to fan and another from the fan to the rad but i cant figure out how to get it in and tighten it


you do have those screws. they are waiting at the hardware store for you. always assume you have to go buy something. every water cooler should have extra screws on hand or plan to buy some. its the same with fittings.


----------



## gree

Im unable to buy the screws this week. Long story.

I do have the means to put the fans under my rad tho, like ive seen some builds with the same case (pc-o7s) would push air through a rad be as effective as pulling air out?


----------



## inedenimadam

Hey guys, I just posted this over in the 980 owners thread, but it should really be here, since this is more about watercooling than it is GPUs. I recently got two replacement cards from EVGA, and while I was waiting, I purchased a couple tubes of Phyobia LM because I was almost out of everything else, and it was only $6 a tube at modmymods. So now I have the older EK CSQ nickel uni blocks with Phyobia LM on my overclocked 980s, and I am only seeing a 1-2C delta over water temps. It is more than a little hard to believe. I cant remember the exact numbers, but when I had the blocks mounted using EKs provided TIM the delta was 15-20C. Is PhyobiaLM that good? The only thing other than TIM that changed is that I cut thin strips of electrical tape to cover over the 'on-package' SMDs. Are my results normal for a liquid metal TIM?


----------



## fakeblood

Quick mock up to see how things fit.



Painted my fittings matte black as well so everything matches.





Just waiting on some fixed 90 fittings then it's time to start plumbing. I'll be verrrrry carefully drilling the midplate tomorrow for the passthrough fittings. Will also finish up the PCI bracket. Needs a sand and paint it.

More in the Fury build log (no it doesn't have a Fury X)


----------



## MIGhunter

Well, little update. My 5 rad fans are too far apart to connect to the 8 way splitter. Now I have to wait for that silly thing normal people call daytime to get some extensions.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Well, little update. My 5 rad fans are too far apart to connect to the 8 way splitter. Now I have to wait for that silly thing normal people call daytime to get some extensions.


Don't have any spare wire and a soldering iron handy?


----------



## kizwan

Quick question, can slightly longer tube cause a D5 pump to work harder when bleeding? Recently I changed one of the tube run that was slightly kinking which I did ignored for few months, with slightly longer tube. This time it took me a couple hours longer to get rid of the air in the loop & a lot more shaking/tilting than I need before. I'll post pic of the loop, before & after later if it is needed.

Or the pump is dying? The pump is almost 3 years old.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Don't have any spare wire and a soldering iron handy?


Sadly enough, I've never bought a soldering iron....


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quick question, can slightly longer tube cause a D5 pump to work harder when bleeding? Recently I changed one of the tube run that was slightly kinking which I did ignored for few months, with slightly longer tube. This time it took me a couple hours longer to get rid of the air in the loop & a lot more shaking/tilting than I need before. I'll post pic of the loop, before & after later if it is needed.
> 
> Or the pump is dying? The pump is almost 3 years old.


The longer tube would remove restriction from the loop, not build it.

Something must have gone wrong.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Sadly enough, I've never bought a soldering iron....


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Im unable to buy the screws this week. Long story.
> 
> I do have the means to put the fans under my rad tho, like ive seen some builds with the same case (pc-o7s) would push air through a rad be as effective as pulling air out?


since most fans are slightly better in push vs pull... you should mount them in push anyways
Unless reviews of that particular fan make/model state otherwise.


----------



## MIGhunter

Woot, thank goodness for being a pack rat. Had a spare extension cable laying around! Going to hopefully finish the build tonight!


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Wanna share some photos with my new (updated) rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all in my sig
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Gotta ask how you got that color fluid. I am looking to do a build with that exact same color fluid. Thanks


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Gotta ask how you got that color fluid. I am looking to do a build with that exact same color fluid. Thanks


Can you please use spoiler tags when quoting images, or just remove them from the quote.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Sorry, just did a quick quote. Fixed.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> I dont have a screw that can fit through all three, i would just use a scrw for the bracket to fan and another from the fan to the rad but i cant figure out how to get it in and tighten it
> 
> 
> 
> you do have those screws. they are waiting at the hardware store for you. always assume you have to go buy something. every water cooler should have extra screws on hand or plan to buy some. its the same with fittings.
Click to expand...

This is so true. I live 2 blocks from an Ace hardware and they have most everything I could want. Cap screws in m3,m4,6-32, whatever. Socket head, button, counter sink, stainless, black, chrome, they have almost everything. The Chrome is super pricey there though. They also have rubber washers, grommets and things like that. I got all thsee little goodies at Ace.


----------



## Wolfsbora

And don't forget, most auto parts stores carry most sizes of O rings for fittings. That's where I picked up the replacements for my Rocket Science hard tube fittings.


----------



## BWAS1000

Got my compression fittings and tubing today. Did a little test, and I swear I didn't need compressions. It took so much effort to get the tubing off the barb. Granted my stupidity had sonething to do with it but still, wow.


----------



## eucalyptus

Hi, what is normal temps for both the CPU/GPU at load and idle.

And my most curious question, what is normal and good temps for the water itself??

I have dual loops. At load CPU water is around 36 degree celcius, and GPU water can reach high as round 40, even a bit higher than 40...


----------



## MIGhunter

And we're up and running, minus installing windows lol. Doing that now!





Still a lot of work to do. Gotta get the pump and fans at right, stress test and break in the system and then time to OC.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hi, what is normal temps for both the CPU/GPU at load and idle.
> 
> And my most curious question, what is normal and good temps for the water itself??
> 
> I have dual loops. At load CPU water is around 36 degree celcius, and GPU water can reach high as round 40, even a bit higher than 40...


The water temperature depends on your ambient.
Personally I wouldn't like to see the water temp exeed 40°C.

For my set up I do not see the the water exeeding 38°C under heavy load with the ambient ~24-25°C and fan speed ~95%. Both CPU and GPU are overclocked and the temp do not exeed 50°C for GPU and 52°C CPU in average over a period of >1 hour. Idle <30°C for both
But my setup is also a very limited one, I have only crossflow rads
- 140mm rad push/pull with 1000rpm fans
- 240mm rad with 2000rpm BUT slim fans.

My setup:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







There are people with rigs having tons of rad space and their water temperature doesn't exeed 25°C @20°C ambient.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> The water temperature depends on your ambient.
> Personally I wouldn't like to see the water temp exeed 40°C.
> 
> For my set up I do not see the the water exeeding 38°C under heavy load with the ambient ~24-25°C and fan speed ~95%. Both CPU and GPU are overclocked and the temp do not exeed 50°C for GPU and 52°C CPU in average over a period of >1 hour. Idle <30°C for both
> But my setup is also a very limited one, I have only crossflow rads
> - 140mm rad push/pull with 1000rpm fans
> - 240mm rad with 2000rpm BUT slim fans.
> 
> My setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are people with rigs having tons of rad space and their water temperature doesn't exeed 25°C @20°C ambient.


Thanks for your response









I only have a EK XE (60mm thick) 120 Rad. One for CPU and one for GPU







With push pull, one EK vardar 3000rpm, and a 15mm 1600rpm fan







The fans are working the same speed all the time, 1000-1200rpm.

A friend to mine said up to 50 degrees on the water is still cool.

Anyway, guess I won't need to be afraid then









Cheers!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quick question, can slightly longer tube cause a D5 pump to work harder when bleeding? Recently I changed one of the tube run that was slightly kinking which I did ignored for few months, with slightly longer tube. This time it took me a couple hours longer to get rid of the air in the loop & a lot more shaking/tilting than I need before. I'll post pic of the loop, before & after later if it is needed.
> 
> Or the pump is dying? The pump is almost 3 years old.
> 
> 
> 
> The longer tube would remove restriction from the loop, not build it.
> 
> Something must have gone wrong.
Click to expand...

Something gone wrong is what I'm afraid of. During bleeding, most bubbles stuck in gpu blocks (two gpu parallel connected) & bottom radiator (120mm). Once the air bubbles escaped the bottom radiator to the front radiator, the air bubbles able to moved quickly to bay res above it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hi, what is normal temps for both the CPU/GPU at load and idle.
> 
> And my most curious question, what is normal and good temps for the water itself??
> 
> I have dual loops. At load CPU water is around 36 degree celcius, and GPU water can reach high as round 40, even a bit higher than 40...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you live in ambient 30-32C like I do, 40C water temp when under load would be normal. If not, that is too high. I don't know how many blocks & how many rads you have though.

*Edit:* I saw your reply. Only 120mm rad for CPU & GPU, depending on what CPU/GPU do you have & whether overclock or not, it is too not enough.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Thanks for your response
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have a EK XE (60mm thick) 120 Rad. One for CPU and one for GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With push pull, one EK vardar 3000rpm, and a 15mm 1600rpm fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fans are working the same speed all the time, 1000-1200rpm.
> 
> A friend to mine said up to 50 degrees on the water is still cool.
> 
> Anyway, guess I won't need to be afraid then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


I'd stop listening to that friend immediately haha. 50°C water temp is HOT thats like what youd get out of the tap (i stuck a thermistor in tap water yesterday and it was 50°C haha). You live in Sweden, my guess is ambient without a heater on is quite cold. I'm in southern France, with an ambient of 24°C right now my water temp is 25°C. Under gaming it gets to around 32-33°C. I have a 360 and 240 in succession. 2 120mm rads is WAY too small for both a gpu and cpu dual loop. CPU should have at least a 240 and depending on your gpu at least a 240 as well.

P.S. A few tests proved that between a 45mm and 60mm rad the difference is minimal, between a 30 and 60 is quite a difference though.


----------



## rck1984

How do you guys deal with coil whine?

Since i started water cooling and added my gpu to the loop, i notice a very audible whine from my GTX980Ti. I haven't really noticed it before because the fan noise would make it less apparent but now when the rig is near silent, the whine is very noticeable. I went through one RMA already with EVGA because my previous card squealed like a pig, but this new card definitely has whine too. Even when i cap my FPS, the coil sound is there.

Is this something you gotta ignore, get used to when water cooling? Or are your GPU's all silent (which i doubt..)?


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> 
> Got my compression fittings and tubing today. Did a little test, and I swear I didn't need compressions. It took so much effort to get the tubing off the barb. Granted my stupidity had sonething to do with it but still, wow.


Had the same experience with EK-ACF fittings. Had to cut it off as I realised the tubing is a bit too long and could not just pull it off.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> How do you guys deal with coil whine?
> 
> Since i started water cooling and added my gpu to the loop, i notice a very audible whine from my GTX980Ti. I haven't really noticed it before because the fan noise would make it less apparent but now when the rig is near silent, the whine is very noticeable. I went through one RMA already with EVGA because my previous card squealed like a pig, but this new card definitely has whine too. Even when i cap my FPS, the coil sound is there.
> 
> Is this something you gotta ignore, get used to when water cooling? Or are your GPU's all silent (which i doubt..)?


Stress the card,it will fade out after awhile.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Stress the card,it will fade out after awhile.


And a while is? Talking a couple of hours stressing? A couple nights in a row? Or are we talking weeks?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> And a while is? Talking a couple of hours stressing? A couple nights in a row? Or are we talking weeks?


Depends on the card,I find it takes hours>days


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> This is so true. I live 2 blocks from an Ace hardware and they have most everything I could want. Cap screws in m3,m4,6-32, whatever. Socket head, button, counter sink, stainless, black, chrome, they have almost everything. The Chrome is super pricey there though. They also have rubber washers, grommets and things like that. I got all thsee little goodies at Ace.


Thats some eye porn haha

I gotcha but i have to catch a ride to the nearest store and right now im waiting on my next paycheck

Ive mouted them under instead and it sounds like ppl think pushing from under is better anyways. Hope mounted these vardars the right way tho xD. My old fans had arrows.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Depends on the card,I find it takes hours>days


Would you suggest running Heaven, Valley or something? Or should i run some uncapped game-menu with 1000+ fps, where is squeales most? I have been running the Crysis 3 menu before with 2500fps, for one or two hours.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Would you suggest running Heaven, Valley or something? Or should i run some uncapped game-menu with 1000+ fps, where is squeales most? I have been running the Crysis 3 menu before with 2500fps, for one or two hours.


Honestly id just let Heaven loop without a benchmark thats as stressful as its gonna get. I didn't know about F9 and i ran it for like 20mins got my card at 43C


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Depends on the card,I find it takes hours>days
> 
> 
> 
> Would you suggest running Heaven, Valley or something? Or should i run some uncapped game-menu with 1000+ fps, where is squeales most? I have been running the Crysis 3 menu before with 2500fps, for one or two hours.
Click to expand...

I did overnight with my 7970s on a game menu. ~80% noise reduction.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I did overnight with my 7970s on a game menu. ~80% noise reduction.


I left my 970 folding for a day lol, that helped a bunch.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Honestly id just let Heaven loop without a benchmark thats as stressful as its gonna get. I didn't know about F9 and i ran it for like 20mins got my card at 43C


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I did overnight with my 7970s on a game menu. ~80% noise reduction.


I really hope this sorts it out over time, this is driving me nuts...
Getting my rig dead silent with water cooling to discover your GTX980Ti of about $800 squeals like a pig. I mean, I can put a closed headphone on that eliminates the sound, but I can't force my wife to sit here with a headphone on...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I really hope this sorts it out over time, this is driving me nuts...
> Getting my rig dead silent with water cooling to discover your GTX980Ti of about $800 squeals like a pig. I mean, I can put a closed headphone on that eliminates the sound, but I can't force my wife to sit here with a headphone on...


Depending on how far it overclocks and it's ASIC rating (80% or higher don't trade it in, message me lol), contact EVGA and they'll swap it for another one with no hassle, they really don't care, they'll just sell it as B stock.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I really hope this sorts it out over time, this is driving me nuts...
> Getting my rig dead silent with water cooling to discover your GTX980Ti of about $800 squeals like a pig. I mean, I can put a closed headphone on that eliminates the sound, but I can't force my wife to sit here with a headphone on...


Honestly my hearing is impeccable, i can hear if there's even a slight hum in my fans then ill change the voltage so i don't have to hear it. I don't think i have ever heard coil whine in my life. Wouldn't even know what it sounds like, all ive heard is my 140mm Noctua hum at exactly 1050rpm and my Thermaltake case fans hum at anything above 1000rpm (ive mounted em to the rad and they stopped huming go figure)


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Depending on how far it overclocks and it's ASIC rating (80% or higher don't trade it in, message me lol), contact EVGA and they'll swap it for another one with no hassle, they really don't care, they'll just sell it as B stock.


A constant 1570/8000mhz at 1.27v rock steady, temps haven't exceed 50c. I'll do everything I can to keep it, I did RMA my previous card already, this is the second 980Ti.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> A constant 1570/8000mhz at 1.27v rock steady, temps haven't exceed 50c. I'll do everything I can to keep it, I did RMA my previous card already, this is the second 980Ti.


Honestly just leave if folding with [email protected] or like inedenimadam said in a game menu with 1000+fps it will soon reduce the noise.


----------



## eucalyptus

I need help. When I play Star Wars, a single 980 Ti, all ultra 3440x1440P, my GPU says 50 degree ceclius in HW monitor. And my water temps gets 45 degree (stepping up toward 50).

So my gpu is cool, but the water is damn hot.

My leds in the reservoir start blinking due to much heat. And my RGB led controller is going nuts due to heat.

How can I adjust my fans? I have X99 itx mobo. I want to fix that my 2 parallel connected Vardar fans is working harder when GPU gets warmer. But how?

My "FAN-tastic" curves in Bios only works on CPU temp...... I can't use After burner either







I need to get the GPU water heat down a lot.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I need help. When I play Star Wars, a single 980 Ti, all ultra 3440x1440P, my GPU says 50 degree ceclius in HW monitor. And my water temps gets 45 degree (stepping up toward 50).
> 
> So my gpu is cool, but the water is damn hot.
> 
> My leds in the reservoir start blinking due to much heat. And my RGB led controller is going nuts due to heat.
> 
> How can I adjust my fans? I have X99 itx mobo. I want to fix that my 2 parallel connected Vardar fans is working harder when GPU gets warmer. But how?
> 
> My "FAN-tastic" curves in Bios only works on CPU temp...... I can't use After burner either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get the GPU water heat down a lot.


Well first of all, didn't you say you have a single 120mm radiator? Push pull won't matter with that small amount of rad space. 60mm won't matter either.

I have a 560, 480, 360 and 240, with two Titan Xs pushing 1.274v and a 4770k pushing 1.315v. My max water temps are about 31c


----------



## KaffieneKing

120mm rad is capable of cooling both a GPU but its not going to run as cool as other setups.

Both GPU and the water temperatures are fine, set a more aggressive fan profile if you want to reduce temps by a bit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> 120mm rad is capable of cooling *both* a GPU but its not going to run as cool as other setups.
> 
> Both GPU and the water temperatures are fine, set a more aggressive fan profile if you want to reduce temps by a bit.


120 for a CPU and GPU?

No,its not enough and 50c watertemp is not fine.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 120 for a CPU and GPU?
> 
> No,its not enough and 50c watertemp is not fine.


If the GPU/CPU is less than it would be aircooled I dont see the problem (other than money wasted)


----------



## OneFunGenesis

If you want to get that water temp down there is only 2 ways (really). 1 is to slow the pump down so the water sits in the rad longer. The other way is to get more rad...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> If the GPU/CPU is less than it would be aircooled I dont see the problem (other than money wasted)


Have you looked at the temp ratings for tube? Or the expansion characteristics of the tube?

Temps for the hardware is fine,temps for components of the loop...less so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> If you want to get that water temp down there is only 2 ways (really). *1 is to slow the pump down so the water sits in the rad longer.* The other way is to get more rad...


No,this is not how it works,by your methodology,we should all be on the lowest pump speed...

It is all about relative dwell times and flow characteristics,slowing pump speed is the last thing he should do. The fastest way for him to gain performance is raise the fan speeds. He will struggle mightily to get more rad in that case for one....


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> If you want to get that water temp down there is only 2 ways (really). 1 is to slow the pump down so the water sits in the rad longer. The other way is to get more rad...


The water spends the same amount of time in the rad regardless of pump speed.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> If you want to get that water temp down there is only 2 ways (really). 1 is to slow the pump down so the water sits in the rad longer. The other way is to get more rad...
> 
> 
> 
> The water spends the same amount of time in the rad regardless of pump speed.
Click to expand...

^This.

Picture a single water molecule...It spends 1 second making it through the rad, and re-enters the rad every 10 seconds. Double the speed and it spends 1/2 second in the radiator, and re-enters it every 5 seconds. end results are the same, that water molecules spends 1/10th of its life inside a radiator.


----------



## bluej511

It does spend the same amount but from what ive read you want a turulent flow so slow speeds wouldnt work. Also depends on the rad. Some rads going from 1300 to 2000 roms makes very lil difference. Whoever said a 120 is enought for gpu/cpu no thanks. Its enough to dissapate 100w for a 10C delta. A cpu/gpu is easily twice that. Dont forget that a D5 pump also transfers heat to the water.


----------



## gekkotype




----------



## MIGhunter

Question about temps and fans. Got my system up and running today. So far (TIM isn't cured yet) temps are as follows:
MB avg 36, min 36, max 36
CPU avg 41, Min 40, Max 41
GPU avg 48, Min 46, max 50

Seems High to me.

Also, which way are these fans blowing? I thought they were blowing into the Rad but I feel a lot of air coming from them which makes me think they are in pull and not push.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Question about temps and fans. Got my system up and running today. So far (TIM isn't cured yet) temps are as follows:
> MB avg 36, min 36, max 36
> CPU avg 41, Min 40, Max 41
> GPU avg 48, Min 46, max 50
> 
> Seems High to me.
> 
> Also, which way are these fans blowing? I thought they were blowing into the Rad but I feel a lot of air coming from them which makes me think they are in pull and not push.


I think youre fine, your CPU runs way cooler then mine, my gpu runs way cooler then yours haha. You can tell fan direction by where the fan frame is. It wil always blow TOWARDS the frame.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Picture a single water molecule...It spends 1 second making it through the rad, and re-enters the rad every 10 seconds. Double the speed and it spends 1/2 second in the radiator, and re-enters it every 5 seconds. end results are the same, that water molecules spends 1/10th of its life inside a radiator.


Poor little fella - someone should let it out once and and while.


----------



## bluej511

Yea mig thanks for the pic u have those in a PULL blowing air into the case.


----------



## eucalyptus

Okay, so after a few games in Star Wars Battlefront, All ultra 3440x1440P 75-90 FPS my 980 Ti is working his knees off.

As I said I have 2x 120 Radiators, one for each component. Both with a 3000Rpm Vardar and a 15mm 1600Rpm fan.

Pumps are on level 3, fans all 100%, My gpu, which produce some INSANE heat is going up to 50 degrees Celcius. And the problem here is that my water then goes up to around 45C degrees.

And when my water reaches 45C my led diodes and RGB controllers are going nuts. And the overall loop is insanely warm. Afraid that the Monsoon hardline fittings and glue are going to make another fountain.

I've have a Tristellar. I can not add any more fans or Radiators if I am not buying one of those Extentention radiators, those huge things you have outside the case.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay, so after a few games in Star Wars Battlefront, All ultra 3440x1440P 75-90 FPS my 980 Ti is working his knees off.
> 
> As I said I have 2x 120 Radiators, one for each component. Both with a 3000Rpm Vardar and a 15mm 1600Rpm fan.
> 
> Pumps are on level 3, fans all 100%, My gpu, which produce some INSANE heat is going up to 50 degrees Celcius. And the problem here is that my water then goes up to around 45C degrees.
> 
> And when my water reaches 45C my led diodes and RGB controllers are going nuts. And the overall loop is insanely warm. Afraid that the Monsoon hardline fittings and glue are going to make another fountain.
> 
> I've have a Tristellar. I can not add any more fans or Radiators if I am not buying one of those Extentention radiators, those huge things you have outside the case.


We explained already the only way would be to add at LEAST another 240 or 360 even if its externally. A 980ti isnt a crazy high tdp card but it is up there.


----------



## Domler

So while I'm waitin for my new case, I decided to give cable sleeving a try. Always wanted to, but nervous because of pin outs, Internet horror stories. Yada Yada. I would read, it's not that bad, it's a pain in the @ss, or just buy them. See build logs when people get there customs sleeved cables in the mail is cool. Seeing a build log where they break out the tools is awesome. So, long story short, did 12 of the 24 pin in pet. Screwed up about a dozen wires. But it wasn't bad. But not perfect. 
And I was taking forever. I know it's about patience, but an hour and a half for 6 wires? Time to rethink this. And maybe it's just all in my head, but I thought paracord would look and feel better. So I got some paracord and tried a different method. And this is what I got. 
From two weeks ago, thinking I could never do it, to this? I kinda proud of myself. I think they look good. I like the look of no combs, but maybe to help train them? I'm starting with all extions to focus on sleeving skills, then worry about pinouts later. Full cables do look so good. Sma8 should arrive in the next two weeks. Fingers crossed.

I give them one busted thumbs up. HA. Kinda funny. On the Fith wire, stretching the cord, a thought I could pull it a Lil more. And pulled the terminal through my thumb. Didn't hurt. But blood stared flying out. Thought crap, the cord! Crap, the carpet! Patched it up and called it quits for the day. 20 minutes later, I was back at it. 44 more wires to go!


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay, so after a few games in Star Wars Battlefront, All ultra 3440x1440P 75-90 FPS my 980 Ti is working his knees off.
> 
> As I said I have 2x 120 Radiators, one for each component. Both with a 3000Rpm Vardar and a 15mm 1600Rpm fan.
> 
> Pumps are on level 3, fans all 100%, My gpu, which produce some INSANE heat is going up to 50 degrees Celcius. And the problem here is that my water then goes up to around 45C degrees.
> 
> And when my water reaches 45C my led diodes and RGB controllers are going nuts. And the overall loop is insanely warm. Afraid that the Monsoon hardline fittings and glue are going to make another fountain.
> 
> I've have a Tristellar. I can not add any more fans or Radiators if I am not buying one of those Extentention radiators, those huge things you have outside the case.


Do I get it right: your gpu is cooled by a single 120mm with 2 x slim fans in push/pull config?
Maybe a change of those fans could bring an improvement. Also interesting to know if the air for this 120mm rad is coming from the outside or inside of the case? Then here we would speak about different ambients


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gekkotype*


I don't normally dig stuff like this, but that's really neat


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> We explained already the only way would be to add at LEAST another 240 or 360 even if its externally. A 980ti isnt a crazy high tdp card but it is up there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Do I get it right: your gpu is cooled by a single 120mm with 2 x slim fans in push/pull config?
> Maybe a change of those fans could bring an improvement. Also interesting to know if the air for this 120mm rad is coming from the outside or inside of the case? Then here we would speak about different ambients


Looks like this


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> I don't normally dig stuff like this, but that's really neat


Could be your rig, judging by your avatar


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Could be your rig, judging by your avatar


I guess it does kind of match my avatar


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Looks like this


Why not just tell us again exactly what cooling components you have? Showing us a picture of something that doesn't even look like a PC with no shown radiators or anything doesn't help us help you!


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> I guess it does kind of match my avatar


Sure does


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Sure does


Maybe that's why it caught my interest lol


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I think youre fine, your CPU runs way cooler then mine, my gpu runs way cooler then yours haha. You can tell fan direction by where the fan frame is. It wil always blow TOWARDS the frame.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yea mig thanks for the pic u have those in a PULL blowing air into the case.


Thanks. The issue with those temps is that I'm not over clocking yet.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So what our you guys using to fill the system with air when leak testing. I have nitrogen but figure that would be to easy to go above 10 psi even with a regulator. I'm assuming a bike pump? Also not sure if it would work but its what I use on a daily at work. Would a vacuum pump with a micron gauge work or even without a micron guage (just would have to let it sit to see if the pressure rises) or would that be too much for a system to handle. (I ask because I have all this on hand and I'm curious too)


I use a portable bycicle pump


----------



## r4ven

Planning out a build for the Fractal define S (windowed) that I just picked up.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






and one thing that bugs me about the case is the grille on the top being extra wide and not dust filtered. I'm assuming the design intent was to intake all air from the filtered front and exhaust from the top and back. This configuration doesn't lend itself to radiator cooling from the top grille particularly well; I want to keep it closed.

My theory is (for the most part) ambient temperature in my room will likely be cool enough that a triple 120mm front radiator would probably be enough to cool a cpu and single gpu in my build.



So I had this idea, that Since the Define S has removable top panels for sound insulation I could mount a radiator below the grille to be the last item in my loop prior to going through the front radiator. This way it will passively collect some ambient heat rising from the motherboard when the cover panels are closed, then the water would flow through the front radiator and be cooled.

For those hot summer days, I would integrate a (normally closed) push switch activated by the removable top panels to turn on and off the top radiator fans automatically. This way they wouldn't be working desperately hard doing nothing blowing air against a closed panel.

I'm looking for feedback on a few things:

Is this a crazy idea? Or just so crazy that it might work?
Assuming i'm not crazy, which configuration is likely to be the most practical for overall performance? Fans set to exhaust air out the top of the case through the radiator (remove warm air from the case) or as an intake? Taking into consideration that the grille width is around 180mm so that warm air will be escaping beside any radiator configuration anyway.
Has anyone got some specific radiators that they used for their Define S build that could help give me some more insight as to what fits well and what doesn't. Also any problems you encountered radiator wise.
Hopefully soon I'll be able to scrape together enough coins to make this build but in the meantime the best I can do is fantasize!

-raven


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Planning out a build for the Fractal define S (windowed) that I just picked up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one thing that bugs me about the case is the grille on the top being extra wide and not dust filtered. I'm assuming the design intent was to intake all air from the filtered front and exhaust from the top and back. This configuration doesn't lend itself to radiator cooling from the top grille particularly well; I want to keep it closed.
> 
> My theory is (for the most part) ambient temperature in my room will likely be cool enough that a triple 120mm front radiator would probably be enough to cool a cpu and single gpu in my build.
> 
> 
> 
> So I had this idea, that Since the Define S has removable top panels for sound insulation I could mount a radiator below the grille to be the last item in my loop prior to going through the front radiator. This way it will passively collect some ambient heat rising from the motherboard when the cover panels are closed, then the water would flow through the front radiator and be cooled.
> 
> For those hot summer days, I would integrate a (normally closed) push switch activated by the removable top panels to turn on and off the top radiator fans automatically. This way they wouldn't be working desperately hard doing nothing blowing air against a closed panel.
> 
> I'm looking for feedback on a few things:
> 
> Is this a crazy idea? Or just so crazy that it might work?
> Assuming i'm not crazy, which configuration is likely to be the most practical for overall performance? Fans set to exhaust air out the top of the case through the radiator (remove warm air from the case) or as an intake? Taking into consideration that the grille width is around 180mm so that warm air will be escaping beside any radiator configuration anyway.
> Has anyone got some specific radiators that they used for their Define S build that could help give me some more insight as to what fits well and what doesn't. Also any problems you encountered radiator wise.
> Hopefully soon I'll be able to scrape together enough coins to make this build but in the meantime the best I can do is fantasize!
> 
> -raven


Or or... You could just get a filter for the top and use it as intake while only the back exhausting. Look at my rig for more details.


----------



## Jidonsu

Th
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Planning out a build for the Fractal define S (windowed) that I just picked up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one thing that bugs me about the case is the grille on the top being extra wide and not dust filtered. I'm assuming the design intent was to intake all air from the filtered front and exhaust from the top and back. This configuration doesn't lend itself to radiator cooling from the top grille particularly well; I want to keep it closed.
> 
> My theory is (for the most part) ambient temperature in my room will likely be cool enough that a triple 120mm front radiator would probably be enough to cool a cpu and single gpu in my build.
> 
> 
> 
> So I had this idea, that Since the Define S has removable top panels for sound insulation I could mount a radiator below the grille to be the last item in my loop prior to going through the front radiator. This way it will passively collect some ambient heat rising from the motherboard when the cover panels are closed, then the water would flow through the front radiator and be cooled.
> 
> For those hot summer days, I would integrate a (normally closed) push switch activated by the removable top panels to turn on and off the top radiator fans automatically. This way they wouldn't be working desperately hard doing nothing blowing air against a closed panel.
> 
> I'm looking for feedback on a few things:
> 
> Is this a crazy idea? Or just so crazy that it might work?
> Assuming i'm not crazy, which configuration is likely to be the most practical for overall performance? Fans set to exhaust air out the top of the case through the radiator (remove warm air from the case) or as an intake? Taking into consideration that the grille width is around 180mm so that warm air will be escaping beside any radiator configuration anyway.
> Has anyone got some specific radiators that they used for their Define S build that could help give me some more insight as to what fits well and what doesn't. Also any problems you encountered radiator wise.
> Hopefully soon I'll be able to scrape together enough coins to make this build but in the meantime the best I can do is fantasize!
> 
> -raven


Demcifilter makes a filter that fits the top of the Define R5. It also happens to fit the Define S.


----------



## r4ven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Th
> Demcifilter makes a filter that fits the top of the Define R5. It also happens to fit the Define S.


http://www.demcifilter.com/p0564/Fractal-Design-R5-3-Vent-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx

This one?

It wouldn't fit in the recess of the grille cover; it is almost exactly 420x180mm. Unless you meant resting it on top of the case? I looked at their filters previously. I had thought about ordering a custom one, but it will probably work out pretty expensive.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> http://www.demcifilter.com/p0564/Fractal-Design-R5-3-Vent-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx
> 
> This one?
> 
> It wouldn't fit in the recess of the grille cover; it is almost exactly 420x180mm. Unless you meant resting it on top of the case? I looked at their filters previously. I had thought about ordering a custom one, but it will probably work out pretty expensive.


Yea. That's the way they designed it, for some reason. I would've preferred that it sat inside the recessed area myself.


----------



## r4ven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Or or... You could just get a filter for the top and use it as intake while only the back exhausting. Look at my rig for more details.


Its not too noisy?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Its not too noisy?


Well got sp120 quiet editions full blast and it's still super quiet. And yeah using the r5 demcifilter. Works great and looks about as good as it will get.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Planning out a build for the Fractal define S (windowed) that I just picked up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one thing that bugs me about the case is the grille on the top being extra wide and not dust filtered. I'm assuming the design intent was to intake all air from the filtered front and exhaust from the top and back. This configuration doesn't lend itself to radiator cooling from the top grille particularly well; I want to keep it closed.
> 
> My theory is (for the most part) ambient temperature in my room will likely be cool enough that a triple 120mm front radiator would probably be enough to cool a cpu and single gpu in my build.
> 
> 
> 
> So I had this idea, that Since the Define S has removable top panels for sound insulation I could mount a radiator below the grille to be the last item in my loop prior to going through the front radiator. This way it will passively collect some ambient heat rising from the motherboard when the cover panels are closed, then the water would flow through the front radiator and be cooled.
> 
> For those hot summer days, I would integrate a (normally closed) push switch activated by the removable top panels to turn on and off the top radiator fans automatically. This way they wouldn't be working desperately hard doing nothing blowing air against a closed panel.
> 
> I'm looking for feedback on a few things:
> 
> Is this a crazy idea? Or just so crazy that it might work?
> Assuming i'm not crazy, which configuration is likely to be the most practical for overall performance? Fans set to exhaust air out the top of the case through the radiator (remove warm air from the case) or as an intake? Taking into consideration that the grille width is around 180mm so that warm air will be escaping beside any radiator configuration anyway.
> Has anyone got some specific radiators that they used for their Define S build that could help give me some more insight as to what fits well and what doesn't. Also any problems you encountered radiator wise.
> Hopefully soon I'll be able to scrape together enough coins to make this build but in the meantime the best I can do is fantasize!
> 
> -raven


You can't put the covers back on with a rad up there. The screws mess it up.

On a side note, do I just plug this into any fan slot? Was thinking of using it until I get some led lights


----------



## r4ven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> You can't put the covers back on with a rad up there. The screws mess it up.


I'd thought about that, and making minor modification to the covers to suit.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> I'd thought about that, and making minor modification to the covers to suit.


Do you have the case because literally, the covers plug into the mounting holes. Going to take some serious modifications.

Should I change my fan directions? Apparently I'm functionally ******ed and didn't flip them when I rearranged my rads. Just wondering if it would really make a difference.


----------



## r4ven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Do you have the case because literally, the covers plug into the mounting holes. Going to take some serious modifications.
> 
> Should I change my fan directions? Apparently I'm functionally ******ed and didn't flip them when I rearranged my rads. Just wondering if it would really make a difference.


Yeah, I have the case. I figured since it's steel I could probably file off the little nubs that click it in and affix with strong magnet instead if I was desperate to go ahead with the idea.

As for the fan direction, assuming you have a radiator on the front, flipping the fans should make it marginally more effective (assuming the room is most likely cooler than the inside of your case). Hard to say without seeing your configuration.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Yeah, I have the case. I figured since it's steel I could probably file off the little nubs that click it in and affix with strong magnet instead if I was desperate to go ahead with the idea.
> 
> As for the fan direction, assuming you have a radiator on the front, flipping the fans should make it marginally more effective (assuming the room is most likely cooler than the inside of your case). Hard to say without seeing your configuration.


Sorry, ya, it's a top 360 rad and a front 240.

Would it be best to leave the top rad as a PULL into the case? the front as a push into the case and then the rear fan as an exhaust or should I flip the top fans to they are a PUSH out of the case too?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> I think youre fine, your CPU runs way cooler then mine, my gpu runs way cooler then yours haha. You can tell fan direction by where the fan frame is. It wil always blow TOWARDS the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yea mig thanks for the pic u have those in a PULL blowing air into the case.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks. The issue with those temps is that I'm not over clocking yet.
Click to expand...

What is your ambient temp & water temp? GPU temp look good though even at stock.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What is your ambient temp & water temp? GPU temp look good though even at stock.


No clue on the water temps, didn't put anything in the loop to check that. I think my house thermostat said 68-69F (20C)


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What is your ambient temp & water temp? GPU temp look good though even at stock.
> 
> 
> 
> No clue on the water temps, didn't put anything in the loop to check that. I think my house thermostat said 68-69F (20C)
Click to expand...

In that ambient, your GPU temp still look good.


----------



## bluej511

Its why i love Alphacool radiators with extra ports, could literally measure water temp in and out if i chose. I have a XSPC 1/4 sensor on the out of my 360 so it measures water temp have going thru both rads. I have no idea how accurate it is but right now ambient on lil lcd screen shows 23°C the one on my fan controller shows 21°C and water temp shows 23°C. The water temp one seems right as my GPU is at 26 at idle and CPU at 24.


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely "seahorse" but so close to a "dragon" that it proves their dishonesty.
> 
> I get *why* people chose to go with Barrows in the past, But I suspect adding any logo whatsoever will affect their bottom line. If I were worried about logos, I wouldn't even use BP. But am not so I use BP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


But how does your OCD handle the logo's?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Its why i love Alphacool radiators with extra ports, could literally measure water temp in and out if i chose. I have a XSPC 1/4 sensor on the out of my 360 so it measures water temp have going thru both rads. I have no idea how accurate it is but right now ambient on lil lcd screen shows 23°C the one on my fan controller shows 21°C and water temp shows 23°C. The water temp one seems right as my GPU is at 26 at idle and CPU at 24.


How about temp when under load?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> How about temp when under load?


Just left AC Syndicate for a while as it taxes both. GPU gets up to 42-43°C highest ive seen unless using frame rate target control on AMD, and CPU gets up to 50°C or so. I did notice even though i just built the thing and cleaned the CPU block, theres already junk stuck in the jet plate


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Looks like this


Can you post the pic of the rad setup? This would be the most helpfull approach to understand what could go wrong.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Planning out a build for the Fractal define S (windowed) that I just picked up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one thing that bugs me about the case is the grille on the top being extra wide and not dust filtered. I'm assuming the design intent was to intake all air from the filtered front and exhaust from the top and back. This configuration doesn't lend itself to radiator cooling from the top grille particularly well; I want to keep it closed.
> 
> My theory is (for the most part) ambient temperature in my room will likely be cool enough that a triple 120mm front radiator would probably be enough to cool a cpu and single gpu in my build.
> 
> 
> 
> So I had this idea, that Since the Define S has removable top panels for sound insulation I could mount a radiator below the grille to be the last item in my loop prior to going through the front radiator. This way it will passively collect some ambient heat rising from the motherboard when the cover panels are closed, then the water would flow through the front radiator and be cooled.
> 
> For those hot summer days, I would integrate a (normally closed) push switch activated by the removable top panels to turn on and off the top radiator fans automatically. This way they wouldn't be working desperately hard doing nothing blowing air against a closed panel.
> 
> I'm looking for feedback on a few things:
> 
> Is this a crazy idea? Or just so crazy that it might work?
> Assuming i'm not crazy, which configuration is likely to be the most practical for overall performance? Fans set to exhaust air out the top of the case through the radiator (remove warm air from the case) or as an intake? Taking into consideration that the grille width is around 180mm so that warm air will be escaping beside any radiator configuration anyway.
> Has anyone got some specific radiators that they used for their Define S build that could help give me some more insight as to what fits well and what doesn't. Also any problems you encountered radiator wise.
> Hopefully soon I'll be able to scrape together enough coins to make this build but in the meantime the best I can do is fantasize!
> 
> -raven


I am using 240mm rad with 4 fans in exhaust configuration. To be honest with you I was a bit worried about so much venting in this case( I have R5 but it's the same I think) but there is no dust at all after nearly 3 months of using it.


----------



## Laithan

Quick question, not sure if anyone knows.. I mixed up some *distilled water and PTNuke* approximately a year ago. I have some left over that I've been saving in the plastic jug that the distilled water came in. I'm probably just going to mix a fresh batch to be on the safe side but does anyone know if un-used leftovers can be stored at all or does it need to be discarded if not used right away?


----------



## RnRollie

in an emergency, go ahead, but...
I doubt very much that distilled that is a year old can still be considered distilled... after all it has been opened up to the air... and despite teh PTNuke has had the time to slowly change its composition

I've had a bottle of distilled sitting in a cupboard for over a year, only had used a quart of it.
When i opened it recently it ... "stank" ... not that it was green or anything.. it just smelled.... water should not smell like that









Its not that a fresh bottle/jug of distilled would set you back an arm/leg/kidney.. so, just be safe


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Quick question, not sure if anyone knows.. I mixed up some *distilled water and PTNuke* approximately a year ago. I have some left over that I've been saving in the plastic jug that the distilled water came in. I'm probably just going to mix a fresh batch to be on the safe side but does anyone know if un-used leftovers can be stored at all or does it need to be discarded if not used right away?


Ditch it,di water absorbs crap from the air.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I just had a quick question regarding D5 pump speeds. I have three pumps in my loop, which at max give me 1.21 GPM. One of my pumps is extremely loud. Could it be because I have the pump right before it feeding into it? Here is how I have the top two pumps connected.





The one closer to the mobo is such louder. It sounds as if it's louder than the third pump at 4800 RPM. Here's a pic of where the third one is placed



If I were to get a dual pump top, would that decrease the noise from the top two pumps? Does any of this makes sense? Lol

Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely "seahorse" but so close to a "dragon" that it proves their dishonesty.
> 
> I get *why* people chose to go with Barrows in the past, But I suspect adding any logo whatsoever will affect their bottom line. If I were worried about logos, I wouldn't even use BP. But am not so I use BP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But how does your OCD handle the logo's?
Click to expand...

lol. My OCD handles logos just fine. Because when you think about it you truly cannot avoid logos in Computer technology. Every ASUS board I have owned has a logo. Every PSU, I have owned has as well. So long as they're upright or can be made to be, I am okay with them.









~Ceadder


----------



## BWAS1000

Punctured radiator tubes due to a stupid mistake, so my dad got it repaired. Running a leak test with tap water. i hope when I fill the loop up with distilled this won't come back to haunt me.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I just had a quick question regarding D5 pump speeds. I have three pumps in my loop, which at max give me 1.21 GPM. One of my pumps is extremely loud. Could it be because I have the pump right before it feeding into it? Here is how I have the top two pumps connected.


It could be but generally D5's will make noise if they have air bubbles trapped in their volutes or their impellers are unbalanced which can make them transfer vibrations to the case etc.

What does the noise actually sound like? This may give us a better clue as to what is causing it.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> It could be but generally D5's will make noise if they have air bubbles trapped in their volutes or their impellers are unbalanced which can make them transfer vibrations to the case etc.
> 
> What does the noise actually sound like? This may give us a better clue as to what is causing it.


Could the pressure of one pump feeding another do it too?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Could the pressure of one pump feeding another do it too?


Possibly - Need to find out what it actually sounds like before we can really diagnose the issue.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> It could be but generally D5's will make noise if they have air bubbles trapped in their volutes or their impellers are unbalanced which can make them transfer vibrations to the case etc.
> 
> What does the noise actually sound like? This may give us a better clue as to what is causing it.


It's like the pump is just getting louder and louder. It's a lot louder than all three pumps at the same speed. It's more of a humming sound. It's hard to explain it lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Could the pressure of one pump feeding another do it too?


This is what I personally think; mainly because the third pump I have is pretty dang quiet at those same speeds.

Because of this issue, I was thinking about getting rid of the pump combos, and just getting a dual D5 pump top for them.


----------



## r4ven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> The one closer to the mobo is such louder. It sounds as if it's louder than the third pump at 4800 RPM.
> Thanks


have you tried just running that pump only for a bit to see if it is still noisy? If so, maybe the pump is worn out or defective. Sometimes bearings go which causes unnecessary noise and wear on the pump. Depending on the age of the pump you might be able to seek a warranty.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> have you tried just running that pump only for a bit to see if it is still noisy? If so, maybe the pump is worn out or defective. Sometimes bearings go which causes unnecessary noise and wear on the pump. Depending on the age of the pump you might be able to seek a warranty.


I just got the pump back from warranty like 2 or 3 months ago. It's really no big deal though honestly. I just wanted to know what this issue is, but I really think it has to do with the pump next to it feeding right into it. This is why I may just swap the combos out and get a dual D5 pump top for them.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Is your pump PWM control?
> 
> The Swiftech 8-way comes with a Spanish Waiter instructions that says that the red is the one you connect the "reference" fan to.. the only RPM feedback signal that will be used
> 
> The PWM signal from the CPU_HEADER will be used by ALL PWM fans, but only ONE Fan/device is allowed to report back the RPMs its running at.
> 
> It might or might not be the best way to make it all work to plug teh Pump into the red header... you should try and "play around" abit to see the effect.
> 
> The thing is that the pump might run at at speed with doesnt sit well with the fans or vice-versa... so trying some difference setups and testing the reaction to changing the PWM signal 30% , 40%, 50%, 80%
> 
> But just to be sure: are ALL you fans AND the Pump 4-wire PWM fans ?


Sorry, I think you posted at the same time I did, so I missed it. Very good info. So, I got everything set up. I put the pump on the red channel one and the fans in the other slots. Temps am pretty good but I'm running stock setup. This is the confusing part. Where do I go from here? How do I set up the curves and stuff for the pump and fans. I know the point is noise but in my house it doesn't matter lol. I just want it as cold as possible no matter the noise level. Obviously, I don't want it running full kilt 24/7, just when under load.


----------



## fast_fate

My







of the day


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Sorry, I think you posted at the same time I did, so I missed it. Very good info. So, I got everything set up. I put the pump on the red channel one and the fans in the other slots. Temps am pretty good but I'm running stock setup. This is the confusing part. Where do I go from here? How do I set up the curves and stuff for the pump and fans. I know the point is noise but in my house it doesn't matter lol. I just want it as cold as possible no matter the noise level. Obviously, I don't want it running full kilt 24/7, just when under load.


Unfortunately you cannot control them separately. Whatever is connected to the red header dictates the speed of the rest of the fans in the splitter. That's why i said in my earlier post that as the temp rises both your pump and fans will ramp up the speed at the same time.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> have you tried just running that pump only for a bit to see if it is still noisy?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I just wanted to know what this issue is, but I really think it has to do with the pump next to it feeding right into it.


Good point by r4ven - Kill the power to the other two and run just the dodgy one. This will also rule in/out the issue of one pump feeding into the other that you are concerned about.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Good point by r4ven - Kill the power to the other two and run just the dodgy one. This will also rule in/out the issue of one pump feeding into the other that you are concerned about.


Will definitely do. Gosh... It seems like I'm having issue after issue lol.

But overall, I'm not too worried about it. I leave the two "good" pumps at 3500RPM and the "not so good one/loud one" at 2000 RPM to keep them semi quiet.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Unfortunately you cannot control them separately. Whatever is connected to the red header dictates the speed of the rest of the fans in the splitter. That's why i said in my earlier post that as the temp rises both your pump and fans will ramp up the speed at the same time.


Is that acceptable? Is there a better way to do it? Is there a RPM limit I should aim for because of the pump? Is there a floor I should look out for so the pump is still effective?


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Is that acceptable? Is there a better way to do it? Is there a RPM limit I should aim for because of the pump? Is there a floor I should look out for so the pump is still effective?


That is acceptable, in my case i am using the swiftech splitter with the pump and all my SP120 pwm fans connected. I am controlling them through my bios. My pump runs at 50% speed at 50 degrees and goes all the way up to 100 if i hit 70 degrees.


----------



## charliebrown

has anyone ever used aquatuning us if so how are they on shipping


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> That is acceptable, in my case i am using the swiftech splitter with the pump and all my SP120 pwm fans connected. I am controlling them through my bios. My pump runs at 50% speed at 50 degrees and goes all the way up to 100 if i hit 70 degrees.


Guess it's time to learn my fan profiles.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> has anyone ever used aquatuning us if so how are they on shipping


Ive used em here in France and they shipped the next day came in a few days. I do believe that even for aquatuning.us it still ships from Germany. A lot of people have said they've gotten their parts in a few days they're pretty reliable.


----------



## KaffieneKing

@charliebrown

I have bought stuff from there, there is a 10% code floating around OCN too


----------



## Trestles126

I use my air compressor and turn the regulator valve all the way down to 5psi and use a shraider valve. Pump up to 3psi at the On off drain valve note pressure turn valve let set them come back later and open valve and check. The gauge assemble almost always leaks. So that's how I avoid that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So what our you guys using to fill the system with air when leak testing. I have nitrogen but figure that would be to easy to go above 10 psi even with a regulator. I'm assuming a bike pump? Also not sure if it would work but its what I use on a daily at work. Would a vacuum pump with a micron gauge work or even without a micron guage (just would have to let it sit to see if the pressure rises) or would that be too much for a system to handle. (I ask because I have all this on hand and I'm curious too)


----------



## Domler

FYI. Ordered my two tone case on February 28th. Kindly emailed caselabs yesterday for a possible eta. They said it's scheduled to ship the 31st. So for anyone else that might have ordered two tones, we're close!!!

This is the pump I bought. Small enough to fit in the tool box. Had to break it in a Lil. Now it works every time.


----------



## emsj86

What do you guys use to shine and or clean up chrome/nickel fittings ? Can't seem to keep the smudges off with just simple fiber cloth and cleaner


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What do you guys use to shine and or clean up chrome/nickel fittings ? Can't seem to keep the smudges off with just simple fiber cloth and cleaner


I've always used my old polishing rag since it's got polish all over it already


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What do you guys use to shine and or clean up chrome/nickel fittings ? Can't seem to keep the smudges off with just simple fiber cloth and cleaner


try mothers metal polish, can get it at walmart for $5 and brings nickel/chrome/stainless to a bright shine in no time.


----------



## emsj86

Thanks bill pick some up today. Now I want to buy bits power nickel tuning lol


----------



## BrjSan

Quick question for whom ever used mayhems glass tubin, does it need to chamfer the whole rim to fit in the fitting? Is harder to deal with? Giving glass a chance of i am going for rigid.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> Quick question for whom ever used mayhems glass tubin, does it need to chamfer the whole rim to fit in the fitting? Is harder to deal with? Giving glass a chance of i am going for rigid.


might wanna try the mayhems thread

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/13410#post_25007422


----------



## Domler

@BrjSan OK, here we go. The short version. Chamfer, yes. Harder to work with than acrylic, Yes. Is it gorgeous when its done, YES.
Disclaimer-I am no expert, its just a hobby. I did install glass one time. I want to do it again because it is beautiful. This is my experience.
There is several things to consider before doing glass. #1 SAFTEY. Glass dust can be lethal if inhaled or ingested. Probably a good idea to wear eye protection and a mask. I didn't, but I'm an idiot. Consider where you are working and if children, pets, loved ones are around. How are you cutting and if you sanding the tube. Power tools will kick up more dust. I used both the v style glass tube cutter and the mosaic tile cutter. Score and snap. Then I had to sand flat with wet sand paper. Then I held the tube at 45 on the sand paper, wrapped my index finger over the tube like a pool cue, and rolled and pulled at the same time to chafer the edge. And if the tube is a touch to long, you have to sand it to length. B Negative uses a torch to chafer the edge. Less dust. Just be careful.
#2 Bends. I am in the US and as of right now performance does not have the pre-bent 90. So you will need fittings. Mayhems sells pre-bent 90 pieces.
#3 Fittings. C47 are a no. They do not hold enough pressure because the glass is too perfect? @fast_fate did an awesome review covering which fittings held best and some that did not.
#4 Learning Curve. Pieces will break, chip, crack. Buy extra.
Now I know this sounds like a lot of negatives. But, if you are up for the challenge, have the time, and patience, it is brilliant. It looks like a tube with fluid running through it, instead of colored tubing. Plus a lil glass cleaner and it shines. Light sparkles off of it. I cant describe it. And acrylic seems easy now after sanding glass buy hand. Good luck in which ever you choose.


----------



## BrjSan

Domler, thanks for the awesome feedback.

Actually i just saw the Mayhems video on snapping the glass tubes and sand the surface that just made me think about it.

Was planning Barrows for fittings.

Thanks alot m8


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> With Easter coming very soon and maybe some time off to work on your PC Modding, why not HOP on over to Performance-PCs.com and grab some of the latest new watercooling and bling on the market! We don't hide all the eggs from you and make it easy to grab all these cool new items in our easy to shop store. Performance-PCs.com wishes all our customers and families a very enjoyable Easter Holiday.
> 
> We wish to offer you these Holiday Coupon Codes below:
> 
> Spend $50 get 7% off: "EASTER16-7"
> Spend over $250 get 8% off: "EASTER16-8"
> Spend over $500 get 10% off: "EASTER16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from March 24th through March 28th 2016. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## rck1984

Damnit, this coil whine doesn't seem to be decreasing/disappearing. Been running Valley for two nights in a row now, still same whine.
Tried a different PSU today, still the exact same whine. It's definitely the card causing this on its own.

Going to try Furmark for a whole night now.....


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Damnit, this coil whine doesn't seem to be decreasing/disappearing. Been running Valley for two nights in a row now, still same whine.
> Tried a different PSU today, still the exact same whine. It's definitely the card causing this on its own.
> 
> Going to try Furmark for a whole night now.....


So are you trying to scare the coil whine away by stressing the card??? Did I miss something here or is this a solution that has worked for others?


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> So are you trying to scare the coil whine away by stressing the card??? Did I miss something here or is this a solution that has worked for others?


According to some other users and people on other forums, it can decrease/disappear by stressing the card.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> According to some other users and people on other forums, it can decrease/disappear by stressing the card.


Try running it on menus that have like 1000 FPS. It'll take some time. I have two Titan Xs under water, and they coil whine every so often. When I first got them, they were ridiculous in games when I got massive FPS. I don't think it's possible to get rid of it forever, but you can reduce it.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Try running it on menus that have like 1000 FPS. It'll take some time. I have two Titan Xs under water, and they coil whine every so often. When I first got them, they were ridiculous in games when I got massive FPS. I don't think it's possible to get rid of it forever, but you can reduce it.


I'll try that, thanks. This GTX980Ti even whines on 60 fps, i can't get rid of it by capping fps. I guess it's worth a try running a game menu for a couple nights, letting it squeal like a pig.
Most high-end gpu's have some degree of coil whine i guess, with water-cooling it just gets more audible. Having an air-cooler right onto it masks it quite a lot.


----------



## pc-illiterate

evga are all reference cards arent they? i heard the reference 980ti, especially evga, have coil whine and it doesnt go away.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> evga are all reference cards arent they? i heard the reference 980ti, especially evga, have coil whine and it doesnt go away.


Well I got lucky then... because mine has none to speak of.


----------



## sub0seals

VERY well put man.


----------



## iBruce

I don't wander into this thread neighborhood because these are the hard core bastards.

I might get shot.


----------



## fakeblood

Straight runs done. Few bends to do tomorrow!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Straight runs done. Few bends to do tomorrow!


Just has the amount of white and black.

Great job man


----------



## MIGhunter

Odd, I thought I posted this before but I can't find it now. Not even in my, "where I've posted" section. Anyway. .

My kit came with a small 3 pin cable with one small clear LED light on each side. It's not much but I was wondering if it gets put any where in particular. It came inside of the reservoir but I think it was just to conserve packing space. I've seen reservoirs that have lighting slots but I don't see one here.


----------



## Trestles126

Few pics from my s8 update


----------



## Jokesterwild

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Few pics from my s8 update






Awesome, I like how much copper there is. Don't see much copper these days









With such a roomy case why did you end up having to put fans on the top of the case still?


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> 
> Awesome, I like how much copper there is. Don't see much copper these days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With such a roomy case why did you end up having to put fans on the top of the case still?


I have a rad there 360 up top 240 front and 240 on the bottom bay below cards. I only really have the intake gts ( which are new) and the exhaust fan which I bought a nexus gray and black 140 up top and I have one intake and one exhaust in the left lower Bay Area sucking air out of that compartment the rad is in.

I'm partial to the copper in this revamp but don't wanna buy all new blocks they all look new as the day I bought them.


----------



## Trestles126

^ that's pre rebuild. Got over the red and white fittings and the ROG stuff


----------



## TheCautiousOne

As the day warmed up.

TCO


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have a rad there 360 up top 240 front and 240 on the bottom bay below cards. I only really have the intake gts ( which are new) and the exhaust fan which I bought a nexus gray and black 140 up top and I have one intake and one exhaust in the left lower Bay Area sucking air out of that compartment the rad is in.
> 
> I'm partial to the copper in this revamp but don't wanna buy all new blocks they all look new as the day I bought them.


That picture shows it well. With the two rads sitting almost on top of each other at the front. Obviously no room for fans haha


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> That picture shows it well. With the two rads sitting almost on top of each other at the front. Obviously no room for fans haha


Ya missed running fans inside by 1 inch


----------



## jtom320

It's been over a year since I've sold my rig and moved into other things but I'm getting the itch again.

I'm curious if anyone can give me any quick case advice on any new mini ITX cases that have come out recently that are watercooling capable?

Looking for something that can support like a 240 and a 120 plus CPU, GPU and at least an SSD.

Like I said I'm pretty out the of the loop as of late. Looking for somewhere to start.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> It's been over a year since I've sold my rig and moved into other things but I'm getting the itch again.
> 
> I'm curious if anyone can give me any quick case advice on any new mini ITX cases that have come out recently that are watercooling capable?
> 
> Looking for something that can support like a 240 and a 120 plus CPU, GPU and at least an SSD.
> 
> Like I said I'm pretty out the of the loop as of late. Looking for somewhere to start.


You should try one of the SFF threads instead of the WC thread. These guys seem to be in love with their massive cases.

That being said, while the Phanteks Evolv ITX isn't exactly small, it's a pretty user friendly case, and would probably be a good place to start.

Alternatively, cases from the likes of Parvum seem to be popular here in the WC thread, and are about as close to SFF as most of these guys get.


----------



## Ceadderman

Plenty of water cooled SFF builds here. No casism here.









Personally you can go with most SFF cases if you're willing to mod. Some guys even have hardline builds.









~Ceadder


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> It's been over a year since I've sold my rig and moved into other things but I'm getting the itch again.
> 
> I'm curious if anyone can give me any quick case advice on any new mini ITX cases that have come out recently that are watercooling capable?
> 
> Looking for something that can support like a 240 and a 120 plus CPU, GPU and at least an SSD.
> 
> Like I said I'm pretty out the of the loop as of late. Looking for somewhere to start.


I believe the Fractal Design Define Nano S supports both a front 240mm and a top 240mm. If I manage to move to Canada for University in a while, I will be using that, or whatever new case they come out with.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> It's been over a year since I've sold my rig and moved into other things but I'm getting the itch again.
> 
> I'm curious if anyone can give me any quick case advice on any new mini ITX cases that have come out recently that are watercooling capable?
> 
> Looking for something that can support like a 240 and a 120 plus CPU, GPU and at least an SSD.
> 
> Like I said I'm pretty out the of the loop as of late. Looking for somewhere to start.


My Project mATX case supports mATX and ITX motherboards and has locations for three, 240mm radiators, and dual SSDs all within <20L









-Jeffinslaw


----------



## jtom320

It's like each response sounds more awesome case wise. I've heard excellent things about Phantek. It's funny because they weren't really a thing last time I was doing builds and that wasn't too to long ago.

I'm going to check out each of these cases. This is kind of how I always start these builds. Case first. I really want to do something with hard tubing this time as well.

Knew you guys would be super helpful I appreciate it. I'm sure I'll be back again for more info. Think I'm going to do an I7 4 core with a 980 or something. Although I read about Pascal and I'll have to make sure I'm not too close to that. Worst comes to worst I can probably throw a 970 in short-term.

I missed this hobby a lot. Always been into audio as well. Just recently got an HD 800 but it doesn't quite hit the same spot as watercooling.


----------



## superflex

sorry to butt in but literally just passed the leak testing in my first water cooling loop











lessons learned:
- soft tubing does what soft tubing wants.
- buy angled fittings
- objects in images are larger than they appear (pump and res, specifically).


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> FYI. Ordered my two tone case on February 28th. Kindly emailed caselabs yesterday for a possible eta. They said it's scheduled to ship the 31st. So for anyone else that might have ordered two tones, we're close!!!
> 
> This is the pump I bought. Small enough to fit in the tool box. Had to break it in a Lil. Now it works every time.


This is what I use. it's tiny and so far very reliable.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> You should try one of the SFF threads instead of the WC thread. These guys seem to be in love with their massive cases.
> 
> That being said, while the Phanteks Evolv ITX isn't exactly small, it's a pretty user friendly case, and would probably be a good place to start.
> 
> Alternatively, cases from the likes of Parvum seem to be popular here in the WC thread, and are about as close to SFF as most of these guys get.


Erm..No.

Personally,I have not done anything ATX for a long time.....


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Erm..No.
> 
> Personally,I have not done anything ATX for a long time.....


Having a board smaller than ATX doesn't magically make a build small. Of the cases I'm aware of you working in, the D-Frame Mini is ~46.5L, the Mercury S3 is 38.8L, and the R40 is 46.4L. Two of those are mITX cases, and they're all huge. The InWin 901 you're working in now is by far the smallest case you've worked in (that I'm aware of) weighing in at ~21.3L, which is about in-line with mITX cases that I'd figure people are asking about when they ask for mITX suggestions.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that people here _can't_ recommend mITX cases, but that there are probably better places to ask, as the majority of users aren't making putting their builds in the kinds of cases most people think of when they ask about mITX cases, even if they're putting an mITX motherboard in it. Hell, even the Evolv ITX is huge at 33.6, but at least it's slightly more reasonable.


----------



## wermad

edit: isn't SFF still 30L or less???

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> try mothers metal polish, can get it at walmart for $5 and brings nickel/chrome/stainless to a bright shine in no time.


The Manicorn has spoken....time for some:


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> edit: isn't SFF still 30L or less???


20 or less for me


----------



## szeged

SFF builds really have taken off the past year or so, im currently working on my first SFF ever...and by working on i mean im trying not to kill myself out of boredom waiting on parts to arrive.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> edit: isn't SFF still 30L or less???
> The Manicorn has spoken....time for some:


The uSFF/SFF thread only considers cases 20L or smaller SFF.


----------



## wermad

Looks like the wiki got edited (which may have been wrong at 30L), but found this:

Quote:


> *Small Form Factor (SFF - 8-19L) and Ultra Small Form Factor (uSFF - 4-7L)* desktop
> system are predicted to become a significant market over the next couple of year.
> MicroATX is the most widely used and available motherboard used in the industry.
> Several microATX (µATX) system profiles have been designed and analyzed to
> determine µATX applicability to this relatively new Digital Office Small Form Factor
> (SFF) system profile. Each of the different system profiles was designed to decrease
> the system chassis volume to demonstrate the µATX form factor design tradeoffs to
> develop smaller and smaller system profiles. The µATX SFF system profiles illustrated
> in Figure 1 were also prototyped and their performance measured to correlate the
> thermal and acoustic predictive models. All system profiles are based on a microATX
> board and use standard components except where noted.


http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5CuATX_SFF_Case_Study_Rev1_0.pdf

So, is it 19 or 20?


----------



## szeged

SFF is all subjective i guess lol. s3 is what i consider small seeing as everything else i had was larger than "full" size.


----------



## wermad

Just get a large...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just get a large...










just got done watching that again for like the 5000th time. i want #2 to hurry up and release!


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just got done watching that again for like the 5000th time. i want #2 to hurry up and release!


Haha one of the greatest movies of all time. Beerfest was awesome too. They're shooting #2 in MA where i used to live can't wait to see the scenery again.


----------



## wermad

Can't wait


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just get a large...


VT represent! Damn movie has an insane following up here, I can't get away from people almost crying for joy about 2 making it out of Indiegogo. Seriously, though, fantastic movie. About the SFF discussion, I suppose it's somewhat subjective, but to those of us that use sub-20L cases, things like the S3 or (god forbid) a Prodigy just seem massive.


----------



## bluej511

Did you guys know that "Rabbit" was born without a tibula and has a prosthetic leg? Youd never know it looking at the guy, read it somewhere online.


----------



## wermad

Well, he rocked that manual porsche blasting "Bidibodi Bidibu" (well, with some movie magic







). Can't catch the rabbit!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Having a board smaller than ATX doesn't magically make a build small. Of the cases I'm aware of you working in, the D-Frame Mini is ~46.5L, the Mercury S3 is 38.8L, and the R40 is 46.4L. Two of those are mITX cases, and they're all huge. The InWin 901 you're working in now is by far the smallest case you've worked in (that I'm aware of) weighing in at ~21.3L, which is about in-line with mITX cases that I'd figure people are asking about when they ask for mITX suggestions.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that people here _can't_ recommend mITX cases, but that there are probably better places to ask, as the majority of users aren't making putting their builds in the kinds of cases most people think of when they ask about mITX cases, even if they're putting an mITX motherboard in it. Hell, even the Evolv ITX is huge at 33.6, but at least it's slightly more reasonable.


I disagree with this:
Quote:


> These guys seem to be in love with their massive cases.


None of the cases you have mentioned are "massive",discounting people opinions because their current preferences is a bit off.

IF I was going to do a SFF build then it would be in the Chopin.



Well...2 of them bolted together anyway......


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I disagree with this:
> None of the cases you have mentioned are "massive",discounting people opinions because their current preferences is a bit off.
> 
> IF I was going to do a SFF build then it would be in the Chopin.


My apologies, I should have been more specific when I wrote that reply. I didn't really mean to discount anyone's opinion, simply explain in as few words as possible why that particular individual might want to consider looking elsewhere. I didn't exactly do that as gracefully or neutrally as I should have, though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> My apologies, I should have been more specific when I wrote that reply. I didn't really mean to discount anyone's opinion, simply explain in as few words as possible why that particular individual might want to consider looking elsewhere. I didn't exactly do that as gracefully or neutrally as I should have, though.


Its cool beans,its not even me that I had in mind,there are a number of SFF devotees that frequent this thread. mATX is more my thing,One Form Factor to rule them..........


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well...2 of them bolted together anyway......


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its cool beans,its not even me that I had in mind,there are a number of SFF devotees that frequent this thread. mATX is more my thing,One Form Factor to rule them..........


I've still got my heart set on the high-end mDTX (or possibly better yet, something in this form factor) pipe dream.


----------



## KaffieneKing

I love my sff builds, watercooling with them is a PITA though! Alphacool DC-LT pump looks good though for sff


----------



## LuckyNumber13

so been a while but thought I would post some pics of
of a project I did about a a year ago..pearl purple and pearl lime green build.
some of the stuff on it is a bit older but still a good comp..

BEFORE






And AFTER


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Odd, I thought I posted this before but I can't find it now. Not even in my, "where I've posted" section. Anyway. .
> 
> My kit came with a small 3 pin cable with one small clear LED light on each side. It's not much but I was wondering if it gets put any where in particular. It came inside of the reservoir but I think it was just to conserve packing space. I've seen reservoirs that have lighting slots but I don't see one here.


There should be two little holes on the CPU water block on the side. they don't stay and all that great but I just used a little bit of hot glue and now they're perfect.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> It's been over a year since I've sold my rig and moved into other things but I'm getting the itch again.
> 
> I'm curious if anyone can give me any quick case advice on any new mini ITX cases that have come out recently that are watercooling capable?
> 
> Looking for something that can support like a 240 and a 120 plus CPU, GPU and at least an SSD.
> 
> Like I said I'm pretty out the of the loop as of late. Looking for somewhere to start.


you can also keep an eye on the to be released (soon) bullet series from Caselabs. http://www.overclock.net/t/1594644/something-small-and-wicked-this-way-comes

I had a different build in mind for this year but I am so interested in this case that I might pull the trigger on it.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I've still got my heart set on the high-end mDTX (or possibly better yet, something in this form factor) pipe dream.


whoa that little guy cost about as much the tax on my mobo. :/ lol


----------



## jtom320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can also keep an eye on the to be released (soon) bullet series from Caselabs. http://www.overclock.net/t/1594644/something-small-and-wicked-this-way-comes
> 
> I had a different build in mind for this year but I am so interested in this case that I might pull the trigger on it.


I'd love to finally build a Caselabs build but that seems to be geared towards air cooling and the Mercury isn't exactly SFF.

I'm not huge on the idea of modding either. I just kind of want a basic watercooled system. Last sentence there is a bit of a contradiciton but I'm thinking that little Phantek case might be what I end up going with. I'm not up on the hardware side of things either so I've got a bit of research to do either way.

Oddly enough it doesn't seem like hardware has really progressed all that much in the last year. I mean my 780 TI and 290's wouldn't be quite top of the line anymore but neither of my last two systems would be that far off what people seem to be building now.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I'd love to finally build a Caselabs build but that seems to be geared towards air cooling and the Mercury isn't exactly SFF.
> 
> I'm not huge on the idea of modding either. I just kind of want a basic watercooled system. Last sentence there is a bit of a contradiciton but I'm thinking that little Phantek case might be what I end up going with. I'm not up on the hardware side of things either so I've got a bit of research to do either way.
> 
> Oddly enough it doesn't seem like hardware has really progressed all that much in the last year. I mean my 780 TI and 290's wouldn't be quite top of the line anymore but neither of my last two systems would be that far off what people seem to be building now.


I think it might be possible to squeeze a 240 + a 120 radiator in there in a very small case. No mods required but we shall see on the final release.In any case I plan to mod it


----------



## Trestles126

Caselabs x2 I have it as my htpc gtx780 evga stinger mitx z97 plays any game and also fairly small




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I'd love to finally build a Caselabs build but that seems to be geared towards air cooling and the Mercury isn't exactly SFF.
> 
> I'm not huge on the idea of modding either. I just kind of want a basic watercooled system. Last sentence there is a bit of a contradiciton but I'm thinking that little Phantek case might be what I end up going with. I'm not up on the hardware side of things either so I've got a bit of research to do either way.
> 
> Oddly enough it doesn't seem like hardware has really progressed all that much in the last year. I mean my 780 TI and 290's wouldn't be quite top of the line anymore but neither of my last two systems would be that far off what people seem to be building now.


----------



## Trestles126

Man kinda digging the white only and may not die light grey! All kinda matching the sleeving with the grey of the case. We will see if it turns pink from the ek blood red. Though I've ran 3 gallons of distilled and did the mayhems blitz cleanse.


----------



## emsj86

I would rock the white for a few months than dye it when you get bored and want to switch things up. Something to look forward to


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just got done watching that again for like the 5000th time. i want #2 to hurry up and release!


So they finally let Farva out of the trunk lol

Might finally get a small loop installed in the Lil Box, just need to snag some canned air to clean out the case prior to installing the loop


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> There should be two little holes on the CPU water block on the side. they don't stay and all that great but I just used a little bit of hot glue and now they're perfect.


Anyone have a pic of the little holes here?


----------



## rck1984

< double >


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Anyone have a pic of the little holes here?


Don't know what block you have but they're right at the side on a EK Supremacy block:


----------



## VSG

Topsflo TDC, Laing DDC (w/Swiftech top) and Swiftech MCP50X in that order:


----------



## wermad

Middle shot seems like one is facing a firing squad









Great snaps V!


----------



## VSG

Hah I didn't think about a firing squad but I can see it.


----------



## ocdream




----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Don't know what block you have but they're right at the side on a EK Supremacy block:


Thanks, i'll have to look for that in the morning when I get off work. My plan is to install a LED strip.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocdream*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. What case is that?


----------



## SteezyTN

I know this has been asked a lot, and an issue with using 90's on pump tops, but I'm asking again. Can I use 90's on my res/pump combo, or would it still be the same as if it were just a pump top? I mean I know I CAN use 90's on them, but is it the same? I'm planning out the tubing for my build, and want something unique. I'm tired of how boring my tube routing is.


----------



## MIGhunter

Figured it must be cold outside..

Outside Temp 5 C
not at home so I'm not sure what the temp in my house is.
MB temp 29 C
CPU temp 31 C
GPU temp 33 C

All obviously not under load...

Just remoting into my computer to check temps since it's still a new build


----------



## ivoryg37

Should I go with the red or clear? Using with red dye and clear tubing.


----------



## Iceman2733

Since you going to be using red fluid anyways I would go with the clear give it a little contrast in that area

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know this has been asked a lot, and an issue with using 90's on pump tops, but I'm asking again. Can I use 90's on my res/pump combo, or would it still be the same as if it were just a pump top? I mean I know I CAN use 90's on them, but is it the same? I'm planning out the tubing for my build, and want something unique. I'm tired of how boring my tube routing is.


Not sure what you mean by the same. The same as what? You can use a 90 without issue. 90's only affect a loop when you have 10+ in a single setup.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Should I go with the red or clear? Using with red dye and clear tubing.


Def clear. Youll also see if its gunked up easier haha.


----------



## DarthBaggins

If you're going to be using a dye might as well just go clear top


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know this has been asked a lot, and an issue with using 90's on pump tops, but I'm asking again. Can I use 90's on my res/pump combo, or would it still be the same as if it were just a pump top? I mean I know I CAN use 90's on them, but is it the same? I'm planning out the tubing for my build, and want something unique. I'm tired of how boring my tube routing is.


To broad of a question. Can you use 90 degree fittings to do what? Would it provide the same temps, looks... etc....

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Yes you can. I believe it's been said before. I figure you out just double checking. (But I think what I'm saying will be what was said before to you) You have 90s in your outlet already and it works. Putting a 90 for the inlet won't make difference (if at all). I have a 90 going into my reservoir. And I know a lot others do. Is this the end of the soft tuning on the cpu loop?


----------



## bluej511

You guys should use alt+0176 i was confusing what 90 meant, 90° might work better lol. Ive got a 90° as an inlet a 45° as an outlet, a 45° as an inlet on my cpu block, 2 90° on my gpu block. I dont see it affecting flow that much if any at all.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> You guys should use alt+0176 i was confusing what 90 meant, 90° might work better lol. Ive got a 90° as an inlet a 45° as an outlet, a 45° as an inlet on my cpu block, 2 90° on my gpu block. I dont see it affecting flow that much if any at all.


Only if you have a 10-key. But really who has a 10-key this day in age?


----------



## pc-illiterate

a 10 key? im not an account.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Only if you have a 10-key. But really who has a 10-key this day in age?


Hey now I use both lol. I use my 10 key when I am writing code. Sometimes I need those ALT keys for copyright, trademarks, etc. And I don't want to scour over to Google search just to find one of those symbols.









And I can't stand a Mac. And although holding cmd+C to create a copyright symbol is pretty awesome, this is where my Mac currently resides. Next to the fireplace, next to the air mattress, in the living room lol (and it works!)


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Only if you have a 10-key. But really who has a 10-key this day in age?


People who type 100wpm and just as fast in numbers? I love full keyboards.


----------



## szeged

10 key user reporting for duty.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 10 key user reporting for duty.


+ rep


----------



## taowulf

Not all of us are trendy 10-key haters.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 10 key user reporting for duty.












I use mine almost everyday.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Not sure what you mean by the same. The same as what? You can use a 90 without issue. 90's only affect a loop when you have 10+ in a single setup.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> To broad of a question. Can you use 90 degree fittings to do what? Would it provide the same temps, looks... etc....
> 
> TCO


I'm talking about 90's being able to offset the pump and "turbulence" (if that's the correct word). I've just heard that 90's are a no-no on pump tops. But since I'm using a res/pump top, if it would yield the same results as a regular pump since it's a no-no.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes you can. I believe it's been said before. I figure you out just double checking. (But I think what I'm saying will be what was said before to you) You have 90s in your outlet already and it works. Putting a 90 for the inlet won't make difference (if at all). I have a 90 going into my reservoir. And I know a lot others do. Is this the end of the soft tuning on the cpu loop?


yeah, I'm just double checking. I'm just anxious to know, because I'm having problem where I have the two pumps in series right next to each other, and one is louder than the other. I don't know if it's the incoming pressure of the other pump, or if the 90's are affecting that. Or if it's both.

I may just keep it like that though. Just wanted to double check. I really don't have any other ways to route the tubing lol.


----------



## SteezyTN

Delete* double post.


----------



## pc-illiterate

typically you want 2 times the distance from the pump that the 90 is in diameter. and this is on input not output. this is also only on the pump itself not a res. this is also only the direct 90* not the snake/rotary 90*. at higher rpm/flow rates the pump loses performance and its possible to cause cavitation.


----------



## wermad

Oh boy...that d5 and 90 fitting fire-storm....before it blows up, again, just avoid directly adding the 90 to the d5 inlet. Add a few cm's of tube or extension.

While some of us dont really care, others do (passionately) and its recommended. Im ignoring any response to this post.

My


----------



## Jokesterwild

He just said its for the top of a res on the pump. This isn't complicated. Go ahead use one if it makes your life easier. It's not going to do anything nagative.


----------



## szeged

i got a 90 on my d5 inlet and a 90 on the d5 outlet

guess i should prepare for a nuclear explosion shouldnt i?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> He just said its for the top of a res on the pump. This isn't complicated. Go ahead use one if it makes your life easier. It's not going to do anything nagative.


Did anyone say it was complicated? Just asking to double check. A simple yes or no would suffice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> typically you want 2 times the distance from the pump that the 90 is in diameter. and this is on input not output. this is also only on the pump itself not a res. this is also only the direct 90* not the snake/rotary 90*. at higher rpm/flow rates the pump loses performance and its possible to cause cavitation.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Oh boy...that d5 and 90 fitting fire-storm....before it blows up, again, just avoid directly adding the 90 to the d5 inlet. Add a few cm's of tube or extension.
> 
> While some of us dont really care, others do (passionately) and its recommended. Im ignoring any response to this post.
> 
> My


LOL! I didn't want to bring it up, but just double checking. I know I asked it before, but I don't remember the answers lol. I know for sure its best to leave the 90's out on the direct pump top, but since I'm running a res/pump combo, wanted to see if there was a difference (again)


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i got a 90 on my d5 inlet and a 90 on the d5 outlet
> 
> guess i should prepare for a nuclear explosion shouldnt i?


Same, 90s on both out and in on my top, never an issue after few years. Actually the first time I heard it's bad is just now reading a few posts up.


----------



## bluej511

Heres what mine looks like, 90° on the input and 45° on the ouput.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know I asked it before, but I don't remember the answers lol.


Save the links/posts to help you down the road. You can always pm a knowledgeable member. I get pm's all the time for help and i don't mind


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Heres what mine looks like, 90° on the input and 45° on the ouput.


thats a 90* on the res not the pump.


----------



## wermad

that looks like a pump, i see red and black wires on the bottom right


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> typically you want 2 times the distance from the pump that the 90 is in diameter. and this is on input not output. this is also only on the pump itself not a res. this is also only the direct 90* not the snake/rotary 90*. at higher rpm/flow rates the pump loses performance and its possible to cause cavitation.


This.

Its good practice to feed the pump with a straight run rather than a 90.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Its good practice to feed the pump with a straight run rather than a 90.


Okay! Makes sense. But does this also refer to pump/res combos like the XSPC photon combos?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay! Makes sense. But does this also refer to pump/res combos like the XSPC photon combos?


No,as the return feed goes to the res,not the pump


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> thats a 90* on the res not the pump.


Well GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> that looks like a pump, i see red and black wires on the bottom right


ITS A TRAP. That red and black wire is for the self destruct procedure.


----------



## wermad

lol









My two d5's have just the red and black while the old one i had recently had yellow, black, and blue tach. The two new ones are Swiftech and the old one had an unknown manufacturer name (might have been an oem, not laing)

I don't worry cus my inlet/intake is inside the res:


----------



## bluej511

Yea mine is pwm even though i leave it at a fixed speed. I could make it on a curve but the thing is so silent at all speeds doesnt even matter now.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> that looks like a pump, i see red and black wires on the bottom right


Le sigh
The return line feeds the red not the pump. Hence, the 90 is on the red not the pump.
Wermad either stop your habit or get some sleep. Your post was way out in left field.


----------



## Bogga

Sorry for changing subject here...

I'm looking for fans for my new setup and found these. The numbers are almost to good to be true. Rpm, dB, static pressure...

Anyone using/used these and can give me some input?!

https://www.caseking.de/akasa-apache-pwm-luefter-schwarz-120mm-luak-029.html


----------



## wermad

ek varders or gentle typhoon ap15s


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> ek varders or *gentle typhoon ap15*s


long live the king.


----------



## wermad

*correction: darkside GT's....nuff said


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *correction: darkside GT's....nuff said


Maybe Vardars if you need 140mm fans...


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know this has been asked a lot, and an issue with using 90's on pump tops, but I'm asking again.


There is no real one-stop easy answer....









Generally it is not considered an optimal solution to utilise a sharp 90 bend right at a pump's input.

However the degree of impact the fitting has will depend on a number of factors.

Many get concerned by the 'restriction' effect yet most decent 90 fittings are really not all that restrictive - unless you have some with very small ID's.

The main issue is the abrupt angle change which disturbs the fluid flow right at the input of the pump. This can cause a problem where the fluid enters the pump with a lot of turbulence and thereby disturbing the impellers ability to draw fluid into the pump efficiently. Some symptoms are - loss in pumping ability (usually a minor issue) and the possibility of extra noise being generated due to turbulence at the input/volute.

A 90 fitting at the output is not an issue as any problems with turbulence etc that it may cause are downstream from the pump.

I have done testing myself - and in many cases the 90 fitting at the input is not really much of a drama however at higher flow rates (and this varies greatly with the pump/top designs and the exact style of 90 degree fitting utilised) it can lead to extra noise being generated and higher efficiency losses.

It is exactly the same reason we avoid 90's adjacent a flow meter as in this case flow turbulence can play havoc with some designs of flow meters.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Maybe Vardars if you need 140mm fans...












If you have the cash and only need one bank of fans, E-loops 120 and 140


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Maybe Vardars if you need 140mm fans...


I purchased a 140ER direct from EK just the other week (ie their latest batch) and wasn't all that impressed to tell you the truth. Just purchased the one to compare to my Phantek 140MP fans in my build.

The 140ER motor itself generates some noise when driven by PWM - albeit with my ears up fairly close and the one that I have also seems to vibrate a fair amount (impeller out of balance somewhat).

The Varder 140ER sample I have seems a lot noisier at low air velocities where my Phanteks are dead silent at a given similar low air flow speed.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the cash and only need one bank of fans, E-loops 120 and 140


meh, its only money...







I've already dropped 220 on FF4's


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the cash and only need one bank of fans, E-loops 120 and 140


I wold get some myself if wasn't for the part where people say it is not good when the pulling side is put against something.... which would be all my fans in my build.


----------



## VSG

Speaking of the Darkside GTs, looks like Daz has the 1150,1450 and 1850 (non PWM) RPM versions ready now as well.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> meh, its only money...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already dropped 220 on FF4's


66 sp120s....2x for $30 new...one set used...I'm well above that


----------



## szeged

70 GT AP15s.

i think im ready.


----------



## wermad

I don't think that's enough to handle all that Manicorn powah...you need moar!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I don't think that's enough to handle all that Manicorn powah...you need moar!


ill add another 70 eventually to carry my unicorn glitter fart bombs to the far reaches of the world.


----------



## Bogga

So no input/opinions at all... on the akasa-fan in my link?

Cause the specs almost seems to good to be true. Could only find one review that said they're fantastic. But no real in-depth testing...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> So no input/opinions at all... on the akasa-fan in my link?
> 
> Cause the specs almost seems to good to be true. Could only find one review that said they're fantastic. But no real in-depth testing...


for most things if it seems too good to be true....it usually is.

this is especially true for fan specs.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> So no input/opinions at all... on the akasa-fan in my link?
> 
> Cause the specs almost seems to good to be true. Could only find one review that said they're fantastic. But no real in-depth testing...


Check out thermal bench dot com(mercial), VSG recently reviewed the Viper which has similar blade design as the Apache (and the Rosewill Hyperborea facsimile). Its a decent unit and if you have quite a few on several rads, it will take care of the job. If you're after something a bit better, ap15's or Varders or Eloops are at the top of the echelon.

What rads are you looking for? Size (120 or 140)? Same case as your specs or different? Also, what's available in your market? I know some members are constrained on selection due to their region. Ultimately, you can go with which ever fan you like and it won't be to much of a difference in temps. I ran cooler master R4s and got very good temps, albeit with 50+. These aren't known for being good radiators fans and in typical fashion, the specs are inflated substantially like many fans and manufacturers do.

Check out VSG's site and you'll get a better understanding of what fans can offer you. There are many more other reviews but large fan comparisons are very far and few in between. It gets hard to research so many of us just recommend the tried and true based on member's experience/research/reviews.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know this has been asked a lot, and an issue with using 90's on pump tops, but I'm asking again. Can I use 90's on my res/pump combo, or would it still be the same as if it were just a pump top? I mean I know I CAN use 90's on them, but is it the same? I'm planning out the tubing for my build, and want something unique. I'm tired of how boring my tube routing is.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what you mean by the same. The same as what? You can use a 90 without issue. 90's only affect a loop when you have 10+ in a single setup.
Click to expand...

Actually directly off the Out will impact the loop as well. It's an instant restriction. Should be avoided whenever possible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> typically you want 2 times the distance from the pump that the 90 is in diameter. and this is on input not output. this is also only on the pump itself not a res. this is also only the direct 90* not the snake/rotary 90*. at higher rpm/flow rates the pump loses performance and its possible to cause cavitation.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> typically you want 2 times the distance from the pump that the 90 is in diameter. and this is on input not output. this is also only on the pump itself not a res. this is also only the direct 90* not the snake/rotary 90*. at higher rpm/flow rates the pump loses performance and its possible to cause cavitation.
> 
> 
> 
> This.
> 
> Its good practice to feed the pump with a straight run rather than a 90.
Click to expand...

First I've heard of this. Not that I doubt you but there are gobs of pics in this thread showing 90* intakes filling Reservoirs.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Been having fun learning about 3D printers at the new job, since we carry and sell them. So thought I might as well take advantage and make some custom parts for the revision of JAC:

rough draft on a res holder/bracket:


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually directly off the Out will impact the loop as well. It's an instant restriction. Should be avoided whenever possible.
> 
> ~Ceadder


My reasoning was he was asking from what I understood for intake. Not as outlet. And i thought he was talking about a res pump where the inlet was on top... I may be mistaken!


----------



## gdubc

Grrr, can't seem to get my air leak tester to be air tight. My first leak was the bitspower rotary, tossed it, now I'm not sure. Does anyone know if I can submerge these liquid filled guages?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> First I've heard of this. Not that I doubt you but there are gobs of pics in this thread showing 90* intakes filling Reservoirs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


lots of people do what some of us call stupid because they care more about looks than function or performance, and this applies to everything not just you goobers and your loops. to each his own.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Been having fun learning about 3D printers at the new job, since we carry and sell them. So thought I might as well take advantage and make some custom parts for the revision of JAC:
> rough draft on a res holder/bracket:


Lucky bugger! That looks awesome. I'd love to have access to one. Be so slick for making random parts.


----------



## wermad

I had a "dual rotary snake 90" on my last D5 and never had issues. But I guess the hoopla is with the tight or what I call "direct" 90s. To clarify this one thing about the concern for those who do advise on this matter in respects to the 90s and those who are interested in it:

No on D5 inlet:



Ok on D5 inlet:


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Grrr, can't seem to get my air leak tester to be air tight. My first leak was the bitspower rotary, tossed it, now I'm not sure.


First off toss the teflon tape. I have manufactured quite a a number of these leak testers and found it tricky to obtain a 100% air tight seal when using teflon tape. Main problem is that the threads are relatively coarse and the teflon tape has a hard time filling the voids 100%.

You are much better off using an appropriate liquid pipe sealant. You will instantly achieve a perfect seal with these - a lot less headache as compared to using teflon tape.

It also works out a lot neater as well...!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> First I've heard of this. Not that I doubt you but there are gobs of pics in this thread showing 90* intakes filling Reservoirs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lots of people do what some of us call stupid because they care more about looks than function or performance, and this applies to everything not just you goobers and your loops. to each his own.
Click to expand...

Mmmmmm... Goobers...










~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> First off toss the teflon tape. I have manufactured quite a a number of these leak testers and found it tricky to obtain a 100% air tight seal when using teflon tape. Main problem is that the threads are relatively coarse and the teflon tape has a hard time filling the voids 100%.
> 
> You are much better off using an appropriate liquid pipe sealant. You will instantly achieve a perfect seal with these - a lot less headache as compared to using teflon tape.
> 
> It also works out a lot neater as well...!


Nothing wrong with tape,its been sealing UK gas supplies for years. Its a bit tricky to get right,I agree with that tho.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a bit tricky to get right,I agree with that tho.


For sure, I have also used tape for my general plumbing repairs around home etc...

I initially was using tape but as I was manufacturing so many test fixtures I found that consistency was a problem.

Using the liquid pipe sealing option was soooo much easier in ensuring that the threads were 100% airtight on the first go.


----------



## bluej511

If your using it right shouldnt cause any problems. Most people forget to wrap the tape opposite of thread direction. Once i learned that it made a world of difference on everything.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> If your using it right shouldnt cause any problems. *Most people forget to wrap the tape opposite of thread direction.* Once i learned that it made a world of difference on everything.


There it is....

A mistake I still sometimes make after nearly 15 yrs of plumbing......


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There it is....
> 
> A mistake I still sometimes make after nearly 15 yrs of plumbing......


Haha yea once i learned that holy cow it was like night and day, no work tape unwiding itself, no more lil pieces getting caught somewhere. It was love at first site. Ive had to use it on bleeder screws on my motorcycle (even though everyone said not to yet it worked perfectly). If the thread is coarse you just use a few wraps, could always use nail polish or thread lock but i find the tape the easiest to use and remove.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> If your using it right shouldnt cause any problems. *Most people forget to wrap the tape opposite of thread direction.* Once i learned that it made a world of difference on everything.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*


Sorry Robert no idea what that face means, you were awesome in Avengers though haha.


----------



## gdubc

I so ashamed...


----------



## bluej511

Haha most people dont think of it but hey it works. Makes everything cleaner, im anal and i dont rip the tape either i cut it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Lucky bugger! That looks awesome. I'd love to have access to one. Be so slick for making random parts.


I really want to get a 3D printer after printing off a couple little things for the kids, other than I think the other half wants one more than I do now lol. But I can see where it would be handy to ba able to make some of your own parts etc. I know I can make spare parts for the printer with it as well.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

http://printrbot.com/product-category/3d-printers/metal-plus/

My wife owns 6 of the above and one prototype dual filament printer. These are extremely affordable and easy to work with if you are looking for a nice 3D printer....


----------



## Trestles126

I've mentionEd before that I can never get my gauge setup to be fully leak free what I do is hook it up to my on off valve at the drain. Fill the system with about 3psi I wouldn't go more specially not 10psi... Not sure if ur picture is of you actually testing. And I note the 3psi turn the on off valve to close system loop off then check back later and open it up if pressure is 3psi still it's all good.
The reason I wouldn't fill up more than 3psi and I speak from experience. Is I've blown a radiator up by using to much pressure around 7psi. It split right one is the flat tubes. 3psi is plenty. It even will blow ur resivoir plug off of it if u unthread it while under pressure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Grrr, can't seem to get my air leak tester to be air tight. My first leak was the bitspower rotary, tossed it, now I'm not sure. Does anyone know if I can submerge these liquid filled guages?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I've mentionEd before that I can never get my gauge setup to be fully leak free what I do is hook it up to my on off valve at the drain. Fill the system with about *3psi* I wouldn't go more specially not 10psi... Not sure if ur picture is of you actually testing. And I note the 3psi turn the on off valve to close system loop off then check back later and open it up if pressure is 3psi still it's all good.
> The reason I wouldn't fill up more than 3psi and I speak from experience. Is I've blown a radiator up by using to much pressure around 7psi. It split right one is the flat tubes. 3psi is plenty. It even will blow ur resivoir plug off of it if u unthread it while under pressure.


that's a good idea, turning the shutoff for the duration of the test. I got mine sealed tight with tru-blu thread sealant (my brand of choice at work).
That's terrible about the rad blowing out! What kind was it, was it old? I take mine to 10psi while testing, and while I feel like 7 would probably be enough, 1 d5s can put out almost 4psi and 2 d5s in series at 12v can put out more than 6psi in a restrictive loop. I was using 2 in series but I've separated them into separate loops now.
Id be glad that rad blew under air and not water after a bit of wear and tear


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> that's a good idea, turning the shutoff for the duration of the test. I got mine sealed tight with tru-blu thread sealant (my brand of choice at work).
> That's terrible about the rad blowing out! What kind was it, was it old? I take mine to 10psi while testing, and while I feel like 7 would probably be enough, 1 d5s can put out almost 4psi and 2 d5s in series at 12v can put out more than 6psi in a restrictive loop. I was using 2 in series but I've separated them into separate loops now.
> Id be glad that rad blew under air and not water after a bit of wear and tear


It was a ek xt thick rad on a second build. Ya for sure rather be safe than sorry if it leaks it leaks in my eyes I'd rather not take a chance of messing anything up. I feel like compressing air into a system is a tad different stress wise than the flow rate and pressure of water. But I'm no genius and I guess pressure is pressure. I go 3-4 now after that experience and haven't had a leak yet. Just changed out all my fittings to black and did a quick 7 hour test before u filled it.


----------



## Trestles126

My friend finished my aquero 6 back cover to match my psu. Came out tits. He is willing to do work for anyone this is his email

[email protected]


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentionEd before that I can never get my gauge setup to be fully leak free what I do is hook it up to my on off valve at the drain. Fill the system with about 3psi I wouldn't go more specially not 10psi... Not sure if ur picture is of you actually testing. And I note the 3psi turn the on off valve to close system loop off then check back later and open it up if pressure is 3psi still it's all good.
> The reason I wouldn't fill up more than 3psi and I speak from experience. Is I've blown a radiator up by using to much pressure around 7psi. It split right one is the flat tubes. 3psi is plenty. It even will blow ur resivoir plug off of it if u unthread it while under pressure.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Grrr, can't seem to get my air leak tester to be air tight. My first leak was the bitspower rotary, tossed it, now I'm not sure. Does anyone know if I can submerge these liquid filled guages?
Click to expand...

Good pointer there. That was without a rad hooked up, just a g1/4 plug on the end. I rewrapped correctly with more tape since I already have plenty of it, otherwise I will probably use some permatex threadlocker from the garage.


----------



## nyk20z3

Hey guys is this normal to have coolant making its way out of the gpu block chambers ?, i had to remove the front plexi with the go ahead from EK because the jetplate was not centered. I filled the loop with a D5 on max and there are no leaks but as you can see there is coolant outside the chambers. Ive never used an EK block before so idk if its normal or not.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Hey guys is this normal to have coolant making its way out of the gpu block chambers ?, i had to remove the front plexi with the go ahead from EK because the jetplate was not centered. I filled the loop with a D5 on max and there are no leaks but as you can see there is coolant outside the chambers. Ive never used an EK block before so idk if its normal or not.


Ouch that looks like its gonna cause some air bubbles, my guess. You didn't tighten the plexi back down tight enough. Don't be afraid to crank down on it, its thick plexi it won't crack that easily.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> First off toss the teflon tape. I have manufactured quite a a number of these leak testers and found it tricky to obtain a 100% air tight seal when using teflon tape. Main problem is that the threads are relatively coarse and the teflon tape has a hard time filling the voids 100%.
> 
> You are much better off using an appropriate liquid pipe sealant. You will instantly achieve a perfect seal with these - a lot less headache as compared to using teflon tape.
> 
> It also works out a lot neater as well...!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with tape,its been sealing UK gas supplies for years. Its a bit tricky to get right,I agree with that tho.
Click to expand...

The problem happens to be is people think that white teflon tape works for air. Fact is that you need the yellow teflon tape for air/gas lines.

I am no expert on tape sealants so I have no idea why white doesn't work and yellow does. Maybe the thickness of the tape is the issue. But I do know that yellow is what one needs for sealing gas pipes. I do also agree with Costas that the liquid sealants are good for this too.









~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

You have to be careful. Matter of fact, plexi can have hairline cracks with too much tightening.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You have to be careful. Matter of fact, plexi can have hairline cracks with too much tightening.


Could but that would prob be at its thinnest parts, most gpu blocks have some pretty thick plexi. I think he can tighten it down a lil more without issues


----------



## nyk20z3

Hmmm i def tightend the block down as much as possible, so i am not sure how much tighter i could have gone


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Hmmm i def tightend the block down as much as possible, so i am not sure how much tighter i could have gone


Idk that is quite odd though, maybe the oring in one spot is slightly pinched? Seems ok though its not leaking out of the block so i dont see any issues unless it causes excessive air bubbles.


----------



## nyk20z3

The o ring is good but it def looks like crap imo so i might have to remove the plexi, clean it off and try again. I contacted EK so lets see what they say.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The problem happens to be is people think that white teflon tape works for air. Fact is that you need the yellow teflon tape for air/gas lines.
> 
> I am no expert on tape sealants so I have no idea why white doesn't work and yellow does. Maybe the thickness of the tape is the issue. But I do know that yellow is what one needs for sealing gas pipes. I do also agree with Costas that the liquid sealants are good for this too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not true,the colour dictates the thickness of the PTFE,it has no other significance. It scales from White to Yellow to Pink ,Green then Grey (green and grey are special application,Green is oxygen). You can use either/or dependent on the the thread pitch/clearance. White is most common as it can been much finer wound for tolerance.

EDIT: The US use colour coded tape for domestics. The UK does not.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,the colour dictates the thickness of the PTFE,it has no other significance. It scales from White to Yellow to Pink ,Green then Grey. You can use either/or dependent on the the thread pitch/clearance. White is most common as it can been much finer wound for tolerance.
> 
> EDIT: The US use colour coded tape for domestics. The UK does not.


+repped for knowledge.


----------



## emsj86

Pipe dope for all gas pipes for me. Water lines get Teflon or liquid Teflon. Than leak lock it it's a must be that gets all over your wrench


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Pipe dope for all gas pipes for me. Water lines get Teflon or liquid Teflon. *Than leak lock it it's a must be that gets all over your wrench*


Plumbers Mait....

I get that crap everywhere.....


----------



## szeged

i use teflon and blue magic pipe dope for all the steam piping i install every day, works like a charm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The problem happens to be is people think that white teflon tape works for air. Fact is that you need the yellow teflon tape for air/gas lines.
> 
> I am no expert on tape sealants so I have no idea why white doesn't work and yellow does. Maybe the thickness of the tape is the issue. But I do know that yellow is what one needs for sealing gas pipes. I do also agree with Costas that the liquid sealants are good for this too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not true,the colour dictates the thickness of the PTFE,it has no other significance. It scales from White to Yellow to Pink ,Green then Grey (green and grey are special application,Green is oxygen). You can use either/or dependent on the the thread pitch/clearance. White is most common as it can been much finer wound for tolerance.
> 
> EDIT: The US use colour coded tape for domestics. The UK does not.
Click to expand...

Being that I am in the States, it's true.









I cannot speak to the rest f the world but we seem to do things differently here.









~Ceadder


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Hey guys is this normal to have coolant making its way out of the gpu block chambers ?, i had to remove the front plexi with the go ahead from EK because the jetplate was not centered. I filled the loop with a D5 on max and there are no leaks but as you can see there is coolant outside the chambers. Ive never used an EK block before so idk if its normal or not.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is actually quite normal...!

Note that there are NO seals in those other chambers. The only seal is around the main perimeter and that is the important bit where fluid shall not pass....









BTW - Don't crank down too hard on the screws.. You only need the plexi to compress the seal slightly - too much and the acrylic will fracture over time.

If you head over to the EK thread there are others with similar examples.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> [/Spoiler]
> 
> This is actually quite normal...!
> 
> Note that there are NO seals in those other chambers. The only seal is around the main perimeter and that is the important bit where fluid shall not pass....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - Don't crank down too hard on the screws.. You only need the plexi to compress the seal slightly - too much and the acrylic will fracture over time.
> 
> If you head over to the EK thread there are others with similar examples.


Seconded!







My 970 GTX has the same thing, I actually think it is supposed to do that, but more for aesthetics.


----------



## emsj86

Anyone know whom I can pay to build a custom reservoir. Well it wouldn't be a reservoir but more of a mid plate of sorts where two g 1:4 would be drilled to pass coolant through channels. I would like to have one of these as a mid plate or on the back wall to make the blue pastel look as its running through a river almost. I've seen this done on b neg lumo and on a r40 he hear case both looked amazing


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> http://printrbot.com/product-category/3d-printers/metal-plus/
> 
> My wife owns 6 of the above and one prototype dual filament printer. These are extremely affordable and easy to work with if you are looking for a nice 3D printer....


Yeah the one I want is the PowerSpec Ultra, dual extruders and a heated plate. $800 is the retail so hoping my employee discount knocks it way down. We also carry the PrintBots


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Seconded!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 970 GTX has the same thing, I actually think it is supposed to do that, but more for aesthetics.


Did you remove the plexi at some point or it does the same thing str8 from the factory ? If you can pm a pic of your set up i would appreciate it


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Hey guys is this normal to have coolant making its way out of the gpu block chambers ?, i had to remove the front plexi with the go ahead from EK because the jetplate was not centered. I filled the loop with a D5 on max and there are no leaks but as you can see there is coolant outside the chambers. Ive never used an EK block before so idk if its normal or not.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Hey guys is this normal to have coolant making its way out of the gpu block chambers ?, i had to remove the front plexi with the go ahead from EK because the jetplate was not centered. I filled the loop with a D5 on max and there are no leaks but as you can see there is coolant outside the chambers. Ive never used an EK block before so idk if its normal or not.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is actually quite normal...!
> 
> Note that there are NO seals in those other chambers. The only seal is around the main perimeter and that is the important bit where fluid shall not pass....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - Don't crank down too hard on the screws.. You only need the plexi to compress the seal slightly - too much and the acrylic will fracture over time.
> 
> If you head over to the EK thread there are others with similar examples.
Click to expand...

^This...

This has been asked before & EK rep said it is normal. There's nothing there that can prevent coolant from getting in there.

http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/13650#post_24784594


----------



## Trestles126

pretty much finished other than installing aquaero cover and working with some cable routing. happy way more appealing than the first go around. not as flashy and a bit more simple. probably will still dye the fluid light grey....not sure if its the copper or the fact that a ran red before but i do notice a slight hint of pink more so in the blocks.... but then again i may like it hahaha

ill take more pics with my nikon when i get time


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> It was a ek xt thick rad on a second build. Ya for sure rather be safe than sorry if it leaks it leaks in my eyes I'd rather not take a chance of messing anything up. I feel like compressing air into a system is a tad different stress wise than the flow rate and pressure of water. But I'm no genius and I guess pressure is pressure. I go 3-4 now after that experience and haven't had a leak yet. Just changed out all my fittings to black and did a quick 7 hour test before u filled it.


ah I figured it'd be a thick one. I've got an ek xtx and it did make some sounds that made me rather uncomfortable the first time I took it to 10. I might do something a bit lower next time







thanks


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Did you remove the plexi at some point or it does the same thing str8 from the factory ? If you can pm a pic of your set up i would appreciate it


PM'd ya


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Cut the lower rad bay panels and finished the detailing for the rad box.





Then I realized the Celestial has a V12 and not a V16 like I thought...now I have to recut them for 6 ports per side instead of 8......


----------



## wermad

Dual psu mount (not dual psu) or changed psu position?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Dual psu mount (not dual psu) or changed psu position?


Changed its position,I still need to make the cover for the old PSU mount.....


----------



## wermad

with all your small builds, I'm surprised you have not thrown in there a Nano???


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> with all your small builds, I'm surprised you have not thrown in there a Nano???


Its tempting but I really wanted a 295x2 in there or a dual Fury....I would consider a Fury X tbh.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its tempting but I really wanted a *295x2* in there or a dual Fury....I would consider a Fury X tbh.


Join the club...just make sure you got at least 70 amp psu for this guy







. Preferably single rail but multi rail is good too so long you have 28 amps per rail for each 8-pin connector. The strider gold 850w is one of the smallest units out there w/ 70 amps (full modular) if psu size is a concern.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then I realized the Celestial has a V12 and not a V16 like I thought...now I have to recut them for 6 ports per side instead of 8......


Love your work B...

Nice attention to detail with regards to the inside radius/bevel machining on those cutouts...


----------



## ivoryg37

leak testing my new itx build then I will probably put some red dye in it.



Edit: added some dye


----------



## fakeblood

All filled up!

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/20160330_141332_zpsjxjzuflz.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/20160330_141029_zpsd4rxckgg.jpg.html


----------



## mouacyk

Looks clean but may I ask. .. why you no water gpu?


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> All filled up!
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/20160330_141332_zpsjxjzuflz.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/20160330_141029_zpsd4rxckgg.jpg.html


Beatiful! Is that a murder mod case?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Looks clean but may I ask. .. why you no water gpu?


The $300+ itd cost to get one here to NZ aint worth it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Beatiful! Is that a murder mod case?


The poor mans modded version...heh


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> The $300+ itd cost to get one here to NZ aint worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The poor mans modded version...heh


Haha well it looks great.


----------



## DarthBaggins

well now to gain the funds for a Ref Style 980 just so I can go w/ this snazzy Watercool/Heatkiller block:


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> well now to gain the funds for a Ref Style 980 just so I can go w/ this snazzy Watercool/Heatkiller block:


unhhhhhhhhh those are gorgeous! They almost seem like a perfect stock shroud but made the way they were supposed to be lol... With water


----------



## Iceman2733

That looks awesome but it would have to weight a ton on the card, I see these coolers and I hate myself for going with the MSI 6g card even tho you can't see the bottom of the card still be nice to know it looks that pretty lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really w/ the fullcover block and a good backplate it wont wreak havoc on the GPU's pcb nor the slot. Plus I plan on using a 16 to 16 riser with the revision I'm working on in my build


----------



## hidethecookies

Trying to spread the word on my awesome experience dealing with NZXT support.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1596105/rave-nzxt-support


----------



## alltheGHz

Hey guys, just finished my build

http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/yidiy-jack-kramer-project-gem
http://www.overclock.net/t/1563377/build-log-caselabs-s5-5820k-gtx#post_24126532


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Hey guys, just finished my build
> 
> http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/yidiy-jack-kramer-project-gem
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1563377/build-log-caselabs-s5-5820k-gtx#post_24126532
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip.


Looks great, really clean.









But why Noctua fans?


----------



## Brulf

So i've started modding out the 800D (dosn't look much atm but just can't seem to let this case go lol) have removed all the front drive bays to make room for the vardas once mounted properly will be able to finish the wiring and sleeving hopefully will look good and have better cooling once finished


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Looks great, really clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But why Noctua fans?


eh, something different
looks very pleasing to the eye imo
hey, it caught your eye


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Looks great, really clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But why Noctua fans?
> 
> 
> 
> eh, something different
> looks very pleasing to the eye imo
> hey, it caught your eye
Click to expand...

The build really does look good.








I like the individual touches, such as the front panel fan controller, white contrasting grilles, and the EK res.
The customized hd/ssd really stand out.

As for the Noctuas, I had a few of them in the past.
I'm not going to get into their unique color scheme, but imo they are a quality fan.
Well-made, very quiet, and with a good warranty.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> The build really does look good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the individual touches, such as the front panel fan controller, white contrasting grilles, and the EK res.
> The customized hd/ssd really stand out.
> 
> As for the Noctuas, I had a few of them in the past.
> I'm not going to get into their unique color scheme, but imo they are a quality fan.
> Well-made, very quiet, and with a good warranty.


haha yeah unique is definitely the right word.
Well, here's the thing, I didn't want some black mlg_approved_led fanz by razer
I wanted something pleasing to the eye, something that complimented all the harsh whites blacks and greens


----------



## VSG

Good job man, I still remember when you were trying to convince your mom to buy the case


----------



## wermad

Wait...didn't he sell it or give it to his friend and asked on how to ship it? Wasn't he then gonna get a THW10 since the TX10 is now discontinued, ???

Or has the (upgrade) addiction been suppressed, for now? (Been there







)


----------



## bluej511

People dont seem to seem to like Noctua on here huh? Is it cuz of the color or the price? I have 7 of their fans and love em. Quiet, great performance and i mean a 6 yr warranty come on lol.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> People dont seem to seem to like Noctua on here huh? Is it cuz of the color or the price? I have 7 of their fans and love em. Quiet, great performance and i mean a 6 yr warranty come on lol.


Where are better fans cheaper







and colour is not for every1 also


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Hey guys, just finished my build
> 
> http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/yidiy-jack-kramer-project-gem
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1563377/build-log-caselabs-s5-5820k-gtx#post_24126532
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice even lighting.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> So i've started modding out the 800D (dosn't look much atm but just can't seem to let this case go lol) have removed all the front drive bays to make room for the vardas once mounted properly will be able to finish the wiring and sleeving hopefully will look good and have better cooling once finished
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you have a better picture of the tubing? It looks well thought out.


----------



## rck1984

In my opinion, the colors of the Noctua fans are hideous. That said, their performance and build quality are top-notch. Why in earth don't they just completely re-color their fans or at least make different options. That would result in so much more buyers, 100% certain.


----------



## KiOWA

Noctua PPC fans?
Or their redux line?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> In my opinion, the colors of the Noctua fans are hideous. That said, their performance and build quality are top-notch. Why in earth don't they just completely re-color their fans or at least make different options. That would result in so much more buyers, 100% certain.


Ppc ones are black me personally since idc about show idc about the color as long as they work quietly and efficiently im happy. My whole system in a 23-24db room emits 41-42db with TEN fans, the noisiest being the enermax.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KiOWA*
> 
> Noctua PPC fans?
> Or their redux line?


They're a step into the right direction, yes. Quite not there yet though, at least to me.


----------



## KiOWA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> They're a step into the right direction, yes. Quite not there yet though, at least to me.


What about with the "Chromax pads" to go with them? Add cost and what not.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Had purchased notcua Brown fans at one point in time, just one or two, and that was enough for the rest of my life. Probably won't ever go back.

TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Brown noctuas should be neither seen nor heard- Milford academy for fans

I do love my redux p14's. Got a couple vardars coming to compare them though


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Brown noctuas should be neither seen nor heard- Milford academy for fans
> 
> I do love my redux p14's. Got a couple vardars coming to compare them though


Vardar's are awesome, i have two on my 240 rad. Gonna replace the SP120's on my 360 with Vardar's as well.
Their performance / noise ratio is just awesome, build quality top-notch as well. They're just great fans


----------



## Smanci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Where are better fans cheaper


Tip: Thermalright Ty-140 series for half the price


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Good job man, I still remember when you were trying to convince your mom to buy the case


Oh god that was a process all on itself, I should document that in the build log
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wait...didn't he sell it or give it to his friend and asked on how to ship it? Wasn't he then gonna get a THW10 since the TX10 is now discontinued, ???
> 
> Or has the (upgrade) addiction been suppressed, for now? (Been there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


No lol, I had to ship it to Nvidia, I wanted a th10a/Goliath for a build I was planning, but that's a ways off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> People dont seem to seem to like Noctua on here huh? Is it cuz of the color or the price? I have 7 of their fans and love em. Quiet, great performance and i mean a 6 yr warranty come on lol.


I had no idea there was a 6yr warranty :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Nice even lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a better picture of the tubing? It looks well thought out.


Ah yes thank you, was tough positioning the LED strips for that effect. Thank you for the compliment








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> In my opinion, the colors of the Noctua fans are hideous. That said, their performance and build quality are top-notch. Why in earth don't they just completely re-color their fans or at least make different options. That would result in so much more buyers, 100% certain.


They have a black/grey version, they are the industrial line, I believe


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> In my opinion, the colors of the Noctua fans are hideous. That said, their performance and build quality are top-notch. Why in earth don't they just completely re-color their fans or at least make different options. That would result in so much more buyers, 100% certain.


Maybe because it's their Company Colours most likely. I must agree with that they do not work in every build. Build quality wise they are perfect, so is the packaging.
They perform outstanding too.

Planning on useing them for my HTPC refresh in a Caselabs Nova X2M. But it will revolve around that brownish coffee cream Colour scheme. Mocca Reloaded










And yeah, they have black and grey fans too, the grey ones are the redux line, they use old technology sadly.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Vardar's are awesome, i have two on my 240 rad. Gonna replace the SP120's on my 360 with Vardar's as well.
> Their performance / noise ratio is just awesome, build quality top-notch as well. They're just great fans


I've got one 1800rpm 120mm and it's amazingly quiet, especially if there is no grille on the intake side. I've removed all obstructions other than rads and it was a huge difference. It was quite noisy before I did that. I'm excited to see what the 140 can do


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> No lol, I had to ship it to Nvidia, I wanted a th10a/Goliath for a build I was planning, but that's a ways off.


You got a sponsorship through nvidia?!?!?!?! wow, lucky







Did they put in show or photo shoot?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm happy with my CableMod sponsorship, just awaiting parts so I can do the revision on JAC (thinking of going back to soft tubing but at 1/2"x3/4")


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Shoot, I'm sponsored by VisaCard and PayPal!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im sponsored?


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You got a sponsorship through nvidia?!?!?!?! wow, lucky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did they put in show or photo shoot?


Ah wow thanks, yeah I don't see very many nv sponsorships around here. Yeah, it was by Nvidia, I was shadowing my older brother for a week there and met the GeForce garage guys, the software and hardware engineers, etc. At the time I was still halfway through the build, and it got brought up and they seemed interested, and it went uphill from there







Yes, they did a photo shoot ( http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/yidiy-jack-kramer-project-gem ), but no I don't believe they put it in any shows or events.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You got a sponsorship through nvidia?!?!?!?! wow, lucky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did they put in show or photo shoot?
> 
> 
> 
> Ah wow thanks, yeah I don't see very many nv sponsorships around here. Yeah, it was by Nvidia, I was shadowing my older brother for a week there and met the GeForce garage guys, the software and hardware engineers, etc. At the time I was still halfway through the build, and it got brought up and they seemed interested, and it went uphill from there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, they did a photo shoot ( http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/yidiy-jack-kramer-project-gem ), but no I don't believe they put it in any shows or events.
Click to expand...

That's a sweet rig







Any plans to add the gpu to the loop?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> well now to gain the funds for a Ref Style 980 just so I can go w/ this snazzy Watercool/Heatkiller block:


the GPU clock is beautiful. Where did you find it? Maybe I can actually put some good use to the 980's I have laying around.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> the GPU clock is beautiful. Where did you find it? Maybe I can actually put some good use to the 980's I have laying around.


http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15574


----------



## OneFunGenesis

ModMyMods also sells it if you are in the states:

https://modmymods.com/watercool-heatkillerr-iv-xl-for-gtx-980-ti-and-titan-x-acryl-ni-15564.html


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> ModMyMods also sells it if you are in the states:
> 
> https://modmymods.com/watercool-heatkillerr-iv-xl-for-gtx-980-ti-and-titan-x-acryl-ni-15564.html


Just to clarify, you linked the 980 Ti block, the 980 uses a different version, such as this one:
https://modmymods.com/watercool-heatkillerr-iv-for-gtx-980-acryl-ni-15573.html


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Whoops! sorry, have the ti on the brain







. Thanks for linking the correct one


----------



## psycho84




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


By Far the best build I have seen you put together. Bravo.









TCO


----------



## EduardoB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very good taste! Clean!


----------



## alltheGHz

Oh that lighting...


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> eh, something different
> looks very pleasing to the eye imo
> hey, it caught your eye


They sure did, but I'm not sure if it was for the right reasons.

Anyway, nothing wrong with using Noctua's, but I just can't help but think there would've been other quality fans that would've suited your build better.


----------



## BWAS1000

A drop of dishwashing liquid was a bad idea for me tbh.


Also, I chose a Bykski water block and I don't really regret that decision


----------



## pc-illiterate

i'll keep believing martin as far as the old poop and sick poop noctua fans. they perform average at best.


----------



## Bonjovi

2x
http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Radiator-Computer-Cooling-Systems/dp/B00IAC5456/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459545856&sr=8-1&keywords=xspc+rx360


http://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-MCP655TM-Laing-Vario-controller/dp/B001G6S1JY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459545909&sr=8-2&keywords=swiftech+pump


http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Balancer-Reservoir-Matte-Black/dp/B00CS13HZY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459545985&sr=8-2&keywords=phobya+reservoir



10x
http://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-Center-Compression-Fitting-6-pack/dp/B00F955SRG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


12x http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-SP120-Performance-Edition/dp/B00C249QNE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Remote-Control-Computer-ST-CLEDLS/dp/B00QAX8YPY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459546139&sr=1-1&keywords=pc+lighting




==================================================================================
Im thinking about tubings color .......

I have Corsair 780 T Case White.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very well done! Beautiful build!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> 2x
> http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Radiator-Computer-Cooling-Systems/dp/B00IAC5456/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459545856&sr=8-1&keywords=xspc+rx360
> 
> 12x http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-SP120-Performance-Edition/dp/B00C249QNE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==================================================================================
> Im thinking about tubings color .......
> 
> I have Corsair 780 T Case White.


you bought enough ugly and loud fans for a push and pull set-up on both of those rads. they are optimized for a single bank of fans.

those fans are loud and ugly. i wish we could do negative rep on posts. i would neg every build with corsair fans...

that block isnt all that awesome either. there are better, much better. even the raystorm is better.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you bought enough ugly and loud fans for a push and pull set-up on both of those rads. they are optimized for a single bank of fans.
> 
> those fans are loud and ugly. i wish we could do negative rep on posts. i would neg every build with corsair fans...
> 
> that block isnt all that awesome either. there are better, much better. even the raystorm is better.


I like to see your fans sir (let me guess, varders or gt's, ultra fugly







) ---> asks the man with sixty-six SP120 high performance (well, 65 and one af120 qe).

If he's getting it new, I would skip the cpu block. _solid choice if availibity is a concern._

The fans, as much corsair hate as there is, is still a solid choice and you get the flexibility of the colored rings. Corsair's are a safe and easy choice where others, you have to contend with a ton of varying *opinions* on not only looks but performance. The radiator is still a solid choice and I'm sure less then the darling nemesis (with plastic plugs eeeewwwww







).

Who knows, maybe he got a great lot deal on some used and or new stuff. I've seen guys end up with older components and you can't argue with really great prices. Again, new, he needs help


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you bought enough ugly and loud fans for a push and pull set-up on both of those rads. they are optimized for a single bank of fans.
> 
> those fans are loud and ugly. i wish we could do negative rep on posts. i would neg every build with corsair fans...
> 
> that block isnt all that awesome either. there are better, much better. even the raystorm is better.


I like that fans. its personal maybe you like others but i like them. i have Push pull so i dont need to swotch them maxium speed.

That block i took for 30$







raystorm i dont like it because of that light cables For Future im gonna buy EK Trooper Water block. Just 80$ is expensive for atm and amazon dont have it for sell im not form USA so im looking for amazon shop not some private servers.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you bought enough ugly and loud fans for a push and pull set-up on both of those rads. they are optimized for a single bank of fans.
> 
> those fans are loud and ugly. i wish we could do negative rep on posts. i would neg every build with corsair fans...
> 
> that block isnt all that awesome either. there are better, much better. even the raystorm is better.


You know what they say about opinions..



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



To each their own, that's what they say.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> I like that fans. its personal maybe you like others but i like them. i have Push pull so i dont need to swotch them maxium speed.
> 
> That block i took for 30$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raystorm i dont like it because of that light cables For Future im gonna buy EK Trooper Water block. Just 80$ is expensive for atm and amazon dont have it for sell im not form USA so im looking for amazon shop not some private servers.


Ah, I see, your in the country of Georgia, not the state of Georgia (in the US), ??? I understand now and it makes total sense. I know some members are constrained with availability in their home country.

edit: Btw, research if there is a courier that ships in bulk to your country. I've sold to members who don't live here but the items go to a courier in the US. The courier in the US then ships a large bulk package to help save the member the high cost of multiple shipments to their native country (vs sending numerous packages).


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I like to see your fans sir (let me guess, varders or gt's, ultra fugly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) ---> asks the man with sixty-six SP120 high performance (well, 65 and one af120 qe).
> 
> If he's getting it new, I would skip the cpu block. The fans, as much corsair hate as there is, is still a solid choice and you get the flexibility of the colored rings. Corsair's are a safe and easy choice where others, you have to contend with a ton of varying *opinions* on not only looks but performance. The radiator is still a solid choice and I'm sure less then the darling nemesis (with plastic plugs eeeewwwww
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Who knows, maybe he got a great lot deal on some used and or new stuff. I've seen guys end up with older components and you can't argue with really great prices. Again, new, he needs help


I like SP Fans visual i like color change. and im gona make Push/pull so that RX360 Rad is not huge for fans need full spd. so they dont need full speed and ill not have a problem with it.

Water block I bought used for 30$ and its powerfull one I could bought XS PC waterblockc but as i say i dont like led cables how they are inputing in water block.

My PC

MB :Asrock Fatal1tyZ97Professional
CPU : Devil's Canyon I7-4790K T.Boost 4.4
COOLER : BeQuiet!Dark Rock Advanc
CASE : Corsair 780T White
GPU : Sapphire 7970 3GB
RAM : Corsair Vengeance Pro 4X4GB
SSD : Samsung 840 Evo 250 GB
PSU : Corsair AX860I Platinum
Key/Mouse/Pad : Razer BATTLRFIELD 4

Video card will changed ofc


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ah, I see, your in the country of Georgia, not the state of Georgia (in the US), ??? I understand now and it makes total sense. I know some members are constrained with availability in their home country.
> 
> edit: Btw, research if there is a courier that ships in bulk to your country. I've sold to members who don't live here but the items go to a courier in the US. The courier in the US then ships a large bulk package to help save the member the high cost of multiple shipments to their native country (vs sending numerous packages).


we have transporter companys but you know if i took damaged item i have guaranty from amazon they will help me







and does Performance-pc will help me if i buy item from them? whos know ! because im not from usa and im using transporter company they just can negative my case because of that.

thats why im prefer amazon and buying items from there. ATM they dont have EK Star wars trooper water block







and as i said i dont like rynstorm visual so i took this cheaper + good waterblock


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> I like SP Fans visual i like color change. and im gona make Push/pull so that RX360 Rad is not huge for fans need full spd. so they dont need full speed and ill not have a problem with it.
> 
> Water block I bought used for 30$ and its powerfull one I could bought XS PC waterblockc but as i say i dont like led cables how they are inputing in water block.
> 
> My PC
> 
> MB :Asrock Fatal1tyZ97Professional
> CPU : Devil's Canyon I7-4790K T.Boost 4.4
> COOLER : BeQuiet!Dark Rock Advanc
> CASE : Corsair 780T White
> GPU : Sapphire 7970 3GB
> RAM : Corsair Vengeance Pro 4X4GB
> SSD : Samsung 840 Evo 250 GB
> PSU : Corsair AX860I Platinum
> Key/Mouse/Pad : Razer BATTLRFIELD 4
> 
> Video card will changed ofc


Corsair supplies you with a 7v resistor and it does a good job with noise so long you don't have many. Its still audible but its not annoying tbh. Once you're pushing many fans, like me, then you may wanna get a fan controller. I'm able to drop it down to 40% (4.8v) and they're extremely quiet, even with 65 of them. I game at this setting since I have many fans and rads. For benching, for just the sake of it, i do push it to 75 or 100 % power. If you need a controller, make sure you find a good one as not all do 100% power at start up and can do 40% (or less) power, etc..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> we have transporter companys but you know if i took damaged item i have guaranty from amazon they will help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and does Performance-pc will help me if i buy item from them? whos know ! because im not from usa and im using transporter company they just can negative my case because of that.
> 
> thats why im prefer amazon and buying items from there. ATM they dont have EK Star wars trooper water block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and as i said i dont like rynstorm visual so i took this cheaper + good waterblock


Understandable









Performance-pcs.com is a good choice so long you can get a decent shipping rate and you're buying something simple and not too complex. For example, I wouldn't buy the fans from them but a cpu block, sure







. From what ppl tell me, it can get expensive and insurance is mandatory. If you don't mind the off-brand, Aliexpress sells barrow and I've used them without any issues. There are some sellers that sell brand name parts (like xspc). We have a barrow thread, check it out if you want to get a good over-all understanding of the buying and shipping experience from aliexpress.


----------



## rck1984

Corsair SP fans are fine. They aren't the best around, but if its aesthetics you mostly care for then they are a solid choice. Yes they're loud (especially on high RPM) but their static pressure is quite okay and their build quality is good as well.

I tried some Vardar fans recently and while they don't look as good as the Corsair fans, the performance/noise ratio is superb. I will most likely replace my Corsairs with Vardar's soon.

But anyway.... Nothing really wrong with the Corsair fans if you take the noise into consideration.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Corsair SP fans are fine. They aren't the best around, but if its aesthetics you mostly care for then they are a solid choice. Yes they're loud (especially on high RPM) but their static pressure is quite okay and their build quality is good as well.
> 
> I tried some Vardar fans recently and while they don't look as good as the Corsair fans, the performance/noise ratio is superb. I will most likely replace my Corsairs with Vardar's soon.
> 
> But anyway.... Nothing really wrong with the Corsair fans if you take the noise into consideration.


I agree the Vardar fans were really nice however I had 2 fans out of the 5 all have bearing noises which killed it for me. They sound like a mechanical hard drive clicking randomly and before it gets said my system had no mechanical drives


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> I agree the Vardar fans were really nice however I had 2 fans out of the 5 all have bearing noises which killed it for me. They sound like a mechanical hard drive clicking randomly and before it gets said my system had no mechanical drives


Ironically, one or two of my old Corsair SP fans did that. I guess any fan, from any brand can have that issue, i guess you could RMA them though?


----------



## Bonjovi

I have good Fan controller









http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/6.html

Max Output 30W*6

DC Output 0V - 12 V DC

I like SP fan because of visual







i dont like a bit noice if it have.

also Static its have normal and on double fan sandwich i mean performanse will be good i think







for cooling


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> I agree the Vardar fans were really nice however I had 2 fans out of the 5 all have bearing noises which killed it for me. They sound like a mechanical hard drive clicking randomly and before it gets said my system had no mechanical drives
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically, one or two of my old Corsair SP fans did that. I guess any fan, from any brand can have that issue, i guess you could RMA them though?
Click to expand...

That is true good sir, I had heard a few others with the same issue but like you said anything mass produced can have issues now when it comes to pressure and noise those vardars are insane at how good they work


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> I have good Fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/6.html
> 
> Max Output 30W*6
> 
> DC Output 0V - 12 V DC
> 
> I like SP fan because of visual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i dont like a bit noice if it have.
> 
> also Static its have normal and on double fan sandwich i mean performanse will be good i think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for cooling


With two 360 radiators, you can let the fans spin at the lowest RPM. Making it a quiet system, not silent however. I still hear my SP's on the lowest RPM set with a fan-controller. I don't think you need, or even should do push/pull on those rads though. They do perfect on a single row of fans.


----------



## Alastair

An update on my machine!

I have had them for a while but here are my two Fury's!



I know its not a full EKWB build. But you take what you can get here in South Africa.


Spoiler: Here is GHOST. My full build.
















Any way. I plan to sometime upgrade to thicker rads. An EK PE 360 and a CE280. Or Alphacool XT45's in the same sizes. How much of an improvement do you think you can get going from 30mm thick rads to 45mm thicks?


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> An update on my machine!
> 
> I have had them for a while but here are my two Fury's!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not a full EKWB build. But you take what you can get here in South Africa.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here is GHOST. My full build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way. I plan to sometime upgrade to thicker rads. An EK PE 360 and a CE280. Or Alphacool XT45's in the same sizes. How much of an improvement do you think you can get going from 30mm thick rads to 45mm thicks?


Difficult to give exact numbers, but the difference will be minor i think. Probably only a few degrees, thickness and fin density don't really affect temperatures as much as you'd think. It's radiator surface that makes the difference really.

Don't get me wrong though, it will definitely help but don't expect wonders.


----------



## bluej511

7 of my 12 fans are noctuas they perform great as my delta t stays under 10c with my 240 rad being in a pull. Im at an output of 41-43db in a quiet room of about 23. Quiet with 12 fans. The vadars and corsairs are louder btw theyre ALL running at 1200rpm too. I mean come on SIX YEAR WARRANTY. Who wouldnt want that. Noctua customer service wont even ask for the fan back usually just send you one.


----------



## wermad

The new "industrial" noctua's are pretty slick looking, especially with the different color bumpers


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I like to see your fans sir (let me guess, varders or gt's, ultra fugly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) ---> asks the man with sixty-six SP120 high performance (well, 65 and one af120 qe).


i bet that isnt the only youd like to see, butthead!







want to see my fans, come visit. and i wouldnt use vardars. all but 1 or 2 are pwm. i dont have an aquero (yet) so i dont need pwm anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> I like that fans. its personal maybe you like others but i like them. i have Push pull so i dont need to swotch them maxium speed.
> 
> That block i took for 30$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raystorm i dont like it because of that light cables For Future im gonna buy EK Trooper Water block. Just 80$ is expensive for atm and amazon dont have it for sell im not form USA so im looking for amazon shop not some private servers.


yep i also thought the state georgia in the usa. get what you can get.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You know what they say about opinions..
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> To each their own, that's what they say.


just because its an opinion doesnt mean its right. opinions can be wrong. those fans are fugly as fug. people bought them for 2 reasons. the name corsair and the colored rings.

before anyone else says anything about corsair fans, i dont care what you think. take your opinion and stuff it in a sack where it will do more good. k, thanks.


----------



## szeged

trying to decide if serious or not...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

Corsair: gets love for psu, gets flak for making a decent fan

EVGa: loved for great psu's and gpu's, but gets mauled because of their sketchy mobo's.

Intel: awesome performance, crap for high prices, especially extreme cpu's

Asus: love for their mobos and gpu's, poo flung because of bad customer service.

Its pretty much like this with any company, you can't love and hate them enough.


----------



## eucalyptus




----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*


Bro, you ever consider doing a *custom* build?

























Spoiler: What I think!



It's really awesome looking! Great job! I am sure that was many hours.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Bro, you ever consider doing a *custom* build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: What I think!
> 
> 
> 
> It's really awesome looking! Great job! I am sure that was many hours.


Thanks man







My first computer build ever, took around 250-300 hours







And due to all issues I had it took 7 months from boxes to finished computer on my desk xD























Thanks, appreciate it


----------



## BWAS1000

I finally build a loop and everyone else's loop makes it look bad :'(


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I finally build a loop and everyone else's loop makes it look bad :'(


Don't feel bad mate







. Some ppl like to spend more time and money, but it don't mean the rest of us have to do so. You'll find all levels of builds here, from simple aio to the insane ones with thousands spent on it. I've done 20+ in the last six years but none imho are worthy of shows or magazine covers. You'll learn over time to luv what you accomplish as a water-cooler and use others as inspiration as well as inspire others









This hobby of ours is like cars; some folks spend more money and time on theirs, while others have their own take no matter their capability (or capital).


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't feel bad mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Some ppl like to spend more time and money, but it don't mean the rest of us have to do so. You'll find all levels of builds here, from simple aio to the insane ones with thousands spent on it. I've done 20+ in the last six years but none imho are worthy of shows or magazine covers. You'll learn over time to luv what you accomplish as a water-cooler and use others as inspiration as well as inspire others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hobby of ours is like cars; some folks spend more money and time on theirs, while others have their own take no matter their capability (or capital).


the Car analogy speaks wonders to me, since I'm also a car guy. Also, the block (check my sig), came with 2 compression fittings, 3/8" 1/2" so thats a nice touch. Didn't use them though


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well started the part collection process for JAC revision, going w/ EKWB 10mm ID/16mm OD Black Nickel Fittings and going w/ PrimoChill Advanced LRT this go 'round to ease swapping parts out when I need to (also w/ my employee discount they were only $4.35/fitting and still have more to buy)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> the Car analogy speaks wonders to me, since I'm also a car guy. Also, the block (check my sig), came with 2 compression fittings, 3/8" 1/2" so thats a nice touch. Didn't use them though


Its rare for manufacturers these days to include fittings (unless you add them via the store for more) and its down to the wider variety of connectors one has these days. Keep em and if you sell the block down the road, its an added and enticing bonus for a prospective buyer.

Speaking of cars, lots of members end up in this hobby because of their luv for cars and modding them. I luv cars too but I found that messing and modding with them was not my cup of tea. Still, I like to learn about them







.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its rare for manufacturers these days to include fittings (unless you add them via the store for more) and its down to the wider variety of connectors one has these days. Keep em and if you sell the block down the road, its an added and enticing bonus for a prospective buyer.
> 
> Speaking of cars, lots of members end up in this hobby because of their luv for cars and modding them. I luv cars too but I found that messing and modding with them was not my cup of tea. Still, I like to learn about them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I think I'll be keeping this block. I mean Its the only thing I guess I "cheaped out" on with my loop, and to me it was the best thing to do so with, since Its copper like my rad, and I ended up with a DDC Pump. Honestly, its a copy of an EK block. Supreme LT or LTX, but I think for what I paid for it ($25USD, just by the way), once it continues performing like it is now and not leaking, there's really nothing to complain about. I suppose if it performs well I can pick up their Universal GPU block. If not, then I'll get something else.


----------



## wermad

If its one of these off-brands, the quality has been improving steadily. Actually, I'm using Barrow for my fittings, pump top/res/housings, and adapters. Everything has been working flawless though Barrow is getting a bit more expensive (probably due to increasing demand).

If the fitting matches the size of your tube, use it. If not or if you're going with something else, like hardtube, then just keep em or sell em. I ended up with a few spare fittings but I may end up increasing or revising my loop and they'll come in handy then.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If its one of these off-brands, the quality has been improving steadily. Actually, I'm using Barrow for my fittings, pump top/res/housings, and adapters. Everything has been working flawless though Barrow is getting a bit more expensive (probably due to increasing demand).
> 
> If the fitting matches the size of your tube, use it. If not or if you're going with something else, like hardtube, then just keep em or sell em. I ended up with a few spare fittings but I may end up increasing or revising my loop and they'll come in handy then.


its a Bykski block, and I'm usign XSPC compressions, 3/8" ID 5/8" OD. I didn't know what block I was buying when I bought them, and if I'd known it was coming with fittings, I'd hav bought teo correct tubing. Also, I could have worked with 5 feet of tubign like I wanted. I ahve most of my 10 feet remaining. But since I want to wc my 650Ti Boost. either with One of their blocks or the Alphacool HF-14, I can just swap the tubing and fluid out then, since I'm not running a biocide. Built the loop today, and I'll probably drain it around June 10th or so, so I hope I'll be fine for the 2 months. I'll keep and eye on the loop of course.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I finally build a loop and everyone else's loop makes it look bad :'(
> 
> 
> 
> Don't feel bad mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Some ppl like to spend more time and money, but it don't mean the rest of us have to do so. You'll find all levels of builds here, from simple aio to the insane ones with thousands spent on it. I've done 20+ in the last six years but none imho are worthy of shows or magazine covers. You'll learn over time to luv what you accomplish as a water-cooler and use others as inspiration as well as inspire others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hobby of ours is like cars; some folks spend more money and time on theirs, while others have their own take no matter their capability (or capital).
Click to expand...

I got away from Cars due to my want muscle padding the bill. Now I restrict that part of my anatomy to computers.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Bro, you ever consider doing a *custom* build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: What I think!
> 
> 
> 
> It's really awesome looking! Great job! I am sure that was many hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first computer build ever, took around 250-300 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And due to all issues I had it took 7 months from boxes to finished computer on my desk xD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, appreciate it
Click to expand...

please. Sir. Can you show some more?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I finally build a loop and everyone else's loop makes it look bad :'(


No mam.. I am sure your rig is cool too! Let's see it!


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> A drop of dishwashing liquid was a bad idea for me tbh.
> 
> 
> Also, I chose a Bykski water block and I don't really regret that decision


Bykski is that the new Chinese brand I've been seeing making the rounds on the news threads?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Bykski is that the new Chinese brand I've been seeing making the rounds on the news threads?


I can't tell you for sure. I've seen them mentioned in threads created to talk about them. But not much otherwise and to he honest, while I'm sure I'd be happier with a Supremacy MX like I originally wanted, I think this block is wonderful for the price.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I can't tell you for sure. I've seen them mentioned in threads created to talk about them. But not much otherwise and to he honest, while I'm sure I'd be happier with a Supremacy MX like I originally wanted, I think this block is wonderful for the price.


I really don't care for the look of the black coating on top. I am sure the performance is good. What does the block sell for?

TCO


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I really don't care for the look of the black coating on top. I am sure the performance is good. What does the block sell for?
> 
> TCO


That's one thing I liked about the Supreme LTX over the Supremacy MX.
The MX sells for 55 and the Bykski sells for 25

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=111804030120&alt=web

Running Prime 95 for a few minutes with an XSPX RX240 gives me 50°C. With my H55 I got 60. I know the liquid needs to reach equilibrium for a proper reading, but I find it nice to shave 10° off while using a worse thermal paste. Since my friend still hasn't given me back my Ceramique 2 I used the generic stuff the block came with


----------



## szeged

Awwwwwww gurl you know I'm all bout dat gunmetal.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wermad

Snazzy







. Pc finish?


----------



## BWAS1000

So I know we don't like CLCs for the week whiny pumps and the aluminium rad. What would you guys say to replacing the radiator on my H55 with a 120mm Copper one? The pump would still be weak, but I've never found it whiny or annoying. and its served me well


----------



## wermad

aio's have their place and for some, its the best compromise of water air. They've come a long way and I seldom hear noise complaints of the more recent stuff. Before you chop up a perfectly functioning aio, consider that there are some kits with many parts that can be upgraded down the road (ie swiftech). If you must chop up your aio, you need to find an aluminum radiator. That's one drawback of the aio's is that they do use aluminum where in the custom world, its recommended to stay away from it. Fret not, if you must "upgrade" ebay has many aluminum radiators (I've seen up to 360mm). Just make sure you use the right coolant to re-seal your loop. Otherwise, sell it (locally) and get one of those starter kits.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> aio's have their place and for some, its the best compromise of water air. They've come a long way and I seldom hear noise complaints of the more recent stuff. Before you chop up a perfectly functioning aio, consider that there are some kits with many parts that can be upgraded down the road (ie swiftech). If you must chop up your aio, you need to find an aluminum radiator. That's one drawback of the aio's is that they do use aluminum where in the custom world, its recommended to stay away from it. Fret not, if you must "upgrade" ebay has many aluminum radiators (I've seen up to 360mm). Just make sure you use the right coolant to re-seal your loop. Otherwise, sell it (locally) and get one of those starter kits.


I don't plan to open it up if it doesn't make any sense. If replacing it with a copper rad does indeed make sense, then I just might, otherwise, no. an expandable kit is a consideration for me however.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Snazzy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Pc finish?


Nope just airbrushed it on. Powder coaters here want way to much and they would only use the powders they had in Stock.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Nope just airbrushed it on. Powder coaters here want way to much and they would only use the powders they had in Stock.


Wow, really nice finish. It hints of a pc finish









Pc finishes, I guess it comes down to the shop. I see posts of guys getting great deals and others complaining its hella expensive. I'm in the later camp, unless I go down to Mexico and get the hookup from a buddy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I don't plan to open it up if it doesn't make any sense. If replacing it with a copper rad does indeed make sense, then I just might, otherwise, no. an expandable kit is a consideration for me however.


If you're still cooling the cpu, a newer aio might do better and very close to custom. Look for a thicker rad (ie h80) or dual rad (ie h100) and these will take care of you. We don't look down on aio users so don't think less of them. My 295x2 cards come with a single 120 rad powering two pump/blocks on each core. With the right rad placement, you can maintain temps under 75C (the thermal limit). Its a testament that these coolers have bawhls







.

Here are the swiftech kits I mentioned. I hear lots of great things and I've seen a few used ones on ebay sell for great prices. Tempted to get one for my second system but I'm too invested in the air setup already.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, really nice finish. It hints of a pc finish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pc finishes, I guess it comes down to the shop. I see posts of guys getting great deals and others complaining its hella expensive. I'm in the later camp, unless I go down to Mexico and get the hookup from a buddy.
> If you're still cooling the cpu, a newer aio might do better and very close to custom. Look for a thicker rad (ie h80) or dual rad (ie h100) and these will take care of you. We don't look down on aio users so don't think less of them. My 295x2 cards come with a single 120 rad powering two pump/blocks on each core. With the right rad placement, you can maintain temps under 75C (the thermal limit). Its a testament that these coolers have bawhls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Here are the swiftech kits I mentioned. I hear lots of great things and I've seen a few used ones on ebay sell for great prices. Tempted to get one for my second system but I'm too invested in the air setup already.


I was considering a Swiftech setup before I got the deal on my parts. The AIO is not in use for now, and I wouldn't really need the level of cooling it can provide to be honest. I figured it would be a cool little project, don't really aim to gain much out of it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmmmm...



Beveled corners don't fool me one bit.









~Ceadder


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> Beveled corners don't fool me one bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I specifically said it was basically a Supreme LT/LTX knock off. That's precisely why I chose it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> Beveled corners don't fool me one bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I specifically said it was basically a Supreme LT/LTX knock off. That's precisely why I chose it.
Click to expand...

Yeah I got that. I just find that to be flawed.









I get that you're on a budget(pretty much like anyone who isn't sponsored tbh) but purchasing knockoffs is supporting theft. EK is still a relatively small company and they can ill afford the loss. Just like every small company in our sector of the market. I would rather sit an wait for even a used block(ebay typically has one to four of them a month) for a cheaper price than deal with knockoff artists. I'm not judging you, just pointing out that money spent on knockoffs is money stolen from the companies the knockoff artist has copied.









~Ceadder


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I got that. I just find that to be flawed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get that you're on a budget(pretty much like anyone who isn't sponsored tbh) but purchasing knockoffs is supporting theft. EK is still a relatively small company and they can ill afford the loss. Just like every small company in our sector of the market. I would rather sit an wait for even a used block(ebay typically has one to four of them a month) for a cheaper price than deal with knockoff artists. I'm not judging you, just pointing out that money spent on knockoffs is money stolen from the companies the knockoff artist has copied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's a very black and white way to look at it. Purchasing this block has only made me want a Supremacy EVO Instead of an MX. In fact when I do have the money I will purchase an EVO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I got that. I just find that to be flawed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get that you're on a budget(pretty much like anyone who isn't sponsored tbh) but purchasing knockoffs is supporting theft. EK is still a relatively small company and they can ill afford the loss. Just like every small company in our sector of the market. I would rather sit an wait for even a used block(ebay typically has one to four of them a month) for a cheaper price than deal with knockoff artists. I'm not judging you, just pointing out that money spent on knockoffs is money stolen from the companies the knockoff artist has copied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You sound like crApple....









No one owns the patent on the general square design. The nitty gritty details like intake, fin, channel(s), mounting, base plate, etc. are really what should stand blocks apart.


----------



## superflex

I don't really think it's too much of an issue with these dodgy looking knockoffs. I mean, I know there would be many people like me who recognizes at the end of the day it is kinda dodgy and too spooked to chance it and many others who, if they want the trusted performance, wouldn't cheap out and just wait a little bit longer til they have the cash.

I mean, I'm still very new, my first watercooling loop put together not even 2 weeks or so. But coming from experience with guitars and all the knockoffs associated with them.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yay new goodies for JAC, couldn't pass on the deal I got for them:


----------



## Ceadderman

^Wish Corsair would still offer Dominator GTs. Don't really care for the light bars on the Platinum series.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I got that. I just find that to be flawed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get that you're on a budget(pretty much like anyone who isn't sponsored tbh) but purchasing knockoffs is supporting theft. EK is still a relatively small company and they can ill afford the loss. Just like every small company in our sector of the market. I would rather sit an wait for even a used block(ebay typically has one to four of them a month) for a cheaper price than deal with knockoff artists. I'm not judging you, just pointing out that money spent on knockoffs is money stolen from the companies the knockoff artist has copied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You sound like crApple....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No one owns the patent on the general square design. The nitty gritty details like intake, fin, channel(s), mounting, base plate, etc. are really what should stand blocks apart.
Click to expand...

That's just mean werm.









Blocks don't *have to* be square. So long as the mounting area is clear enough for studs to be used properly, they can be whatever shape the manufacturer wants them to be, to be aesthetically pleasing to the market. Which means they simply could have made it circular, octagonal or hell even triangular. Since there are other companies who've been competing with EK just fine and they do things to make their tops stand out, I have no allusions to the theft. It's not about the crApple stance. It's more a biblical thing with me. "Thou shall not steal" didn't make the top ten, for shiggles.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

One thing is it wont have the same internals as an evo for example (like i said), so the extra cost is justifiable for the ek tbh. Theyre both aimed at different markets but you cant use the general shape as reasoning and call facsimile imho. Its like complaining
all gpus copied Nvidia and Amd for the same general shape.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sure the internals are differing in some way, but visually speaking that's a straight ripoff of the EK block. If I wanted to be OCD about things it's also a ripoff of the BitsPower block since they have the beveled corners that block has. Internally speaking however you can see their setup is danged near the same as the EK unit however which was why I stuck to the MX coparison. Sure the MX has the top piece of plexi covering the internals, anyone that knows the EK setup, knows there isn't much of a change between the two.









*Yes I know that last bit was a helluva run on sentence.









~Ceadder


----------



## taowulf

This again?


----------



## BWAS1000

Its similar enough to an EK block that I watched a Supremacy EVO installation tutorial to install it. That being said, I don't care, I will buy a Supremacy EVO when the money comes. For now? I'll stick with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> This again?


Sadly, it can't be helped. So long as there is someone willing to copy/steal/borrow a watercooling product and make money at the expense of the original product, it will continue to happen. Personally I wish OCN had a rule against linking/listing knockoff product ripoffs. It would solve a great number of these conversations. Obviously the member posting would have to know for certain and it would be difficult to police for the mods, so it's not likely to happen ever. Just wish that there was no such market as the knockoff market. I won't point fingers internationally speaking, but we all *know* where it is and why it's happening. And sadly, nobody wants to take on that monster with deep pockets to stop them from doing so.









~Ceadder


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> This again?


When you posted this I couldn't relate but after this post below, I feel you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sadly, it can't be helped. So long as there is someone willing to copy/steal/borrow a watercooling product and make money at the expense of the original product, it will continue to happen. Personally I wish OCN had a rule against linking/listing knockoff product ripoffs. It would solve a great number of these conversations. Obviously the member posting would have to know for certain and it would be difficult to police for the mods, so it's not likely to happen ever. Just wish that there was no such market as the knockoff market. I won't point fingers internationally speaking, but we all *know* where it is and why it's happening. And sadly, nobody wants to take on that monster with deep pockets to stop them from doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## bluej511

Nvidia. Ceo learned everything from amd quit and made his own company. Same idea its a knock off. Cars are cars can you imagine if we only had one brand of cars cuz we couldnt coppy each orher? Way more people buy ekwb then biksy or wtv its called so no need to worry. They are also extremly hard to find.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sadly, it can't be helped. So long as there is someone willing to copy/steal/borrow a watercooling product and make money at the expense of the original product, it will continue to happen. Personally I wish OCN had a rule against linking/listing knockoff product ripoffs. It would solve a great number of these conversations. Obviously the member posting would have to know for certain and it would be difficult to police for the mods, so it's not likely to happen ever. Just wish that there was no such market as the knockoff market. I won't point fingers internationally speaking, but we all *know* where it is and why it's happening. And sadly, nobody wants to take on that monster with deep pockets to stop them from doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I respect that you have an opinion. I respect your right to said said opinion.

But with this conversation as well as your repeated anti-Barrow tirades, it is just more of the absurd cacophony of noise that makes the world an unpleasant place. You vote with your dollars, let everyone else vote with theirs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Nvidia. Ceo learned everything from amd quit and made his own company. Same idea its a knock off. Cars are cars can you imagine if we only had one brand of cars cuz we couldnt coppy each orher? Way more people buy ekwb then biksy or wtv its called so no need to worry. They are also extremly hard to find.


Abolish all brands but Mercedes Benz, amirite?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I respect that you have an opinion. I respect your right to said said opinion.
> 
> But with this conversation as well as your repeated anti-Barrow tirades, it is just more of the absurd cacophony of noise that makes the world an unpleasant place. You vote with your dollars, let everyone else vote with theirs.
> Abolish all brands but Mercedes Benz, amirite?


Hell no theyve become over engineered and as unreliable as range rover same with bmw too. I used to work in the auto field. People crack on ford for being cheap yet ive seen way more fords with over 250k then anything else lol


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I respect that you have an opinion. I respect your right to said said opinion.
> 
> But with this conversation as well as your repeated anti-Barrow tirades, it is just more of the absurd cacophony of noise that makes the world an unpleasant place. You vote with your dollars, let everyone else vote with theirs.
> Abolish all brands but Mercedes Benz, amirite?
> 
> 
> 
> Hell no theyve become over engineered and as unreliable as range rover same with bmw too. I used to work in the auto field. People crack on ford for being cheap yet ive seen way more fords with over 250k then anything else lol
Click to expand...

My 2003 Ford Explorer has 190,000 miles on it and other than suspension stuff, I've NEVER had to do any work to it. Change oil, rotate tires, start it up.

I'm buying a 2014 Ford F150 Crew Cab long bed Lariat this month because of the amazing success I've had with the Explorer.


----------



## pc-illiterate

blah blah blah ceadder. you know we are all tired of hearing you spew the theft garbage dont you? buy it or dont buy it. recommend or not. those are your choices. spewing the same crap everytime a brand is shown or mentioned isnt needed or wanted.
no i dont care what you think. the world doesnt revolve around you and your opinion.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sadly, it can't be helped. So long as there is someone willing to copy/steal/borrow a watercooling product and make money at the expense of the original product, it will continue to happen. Personally I wish OCN had a rule against linking/listing knockoff product ripoffs. It would solve a great number of these conversations. Obviously the member posting would have to know for certain and it would be difficult to police for the mods, so it's not likely to happen ever. Just wish that there was no such market as the knockoff market. I won't point fingers internationally speaking, but we all *know* where it is and why it's happening. And sadly, nobody wants to take on that monster with deep pockets to stop them from doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I respect that you have an opinion. I respect your right to said said opinion.
> 
> But with this conversation as well as your repeated anti-Barrow tirades, it is just more of the absurd cacophony of noise that makes the world an unpleasant place. You vote with your dollars, let everyone else vote with theirs.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Nvidia. Ceo learned everything from amd quit and made his own company. Same idea its a knock off. Cars are cars can you imagine if we only had one brand of cars cuz we couldnt coppy each orher? Way more people buy ekwb then biksy or wtv its called so no need to worry. They are also extremly hard to find.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Abolish all brands but Mercedes Benz, amirite?
Click to expand...

Repeated "tirades" ? I've posted about Barrows *twice* conversationally. Sorry if that irritates people. I was carrying on the conversation and it was a total of two coversations. I guess I shoulda wrote books that would have simply been ignored and passed over. But I certainly haven't posted tirades on Barrows. I posted my opinion on the subject and we can both agree that not everyone subscribes to my opinion. Nor do I expect them to. I've posted followups to my opinion, that came to mind afterward. Apologies if that irritates as well.









Oh and btw, I'm not suggesting that you're dim or anything else. But the entire car argument in my opinion is simply ******ed. I've heard this stance on the subject so many times it's ridiculous. Name a car company that intentionally copied another company's look outside of the land of knockoffs? There are so many cars and looks you couldn't possibly photocopy the style and be exact from one brand to another. I've built and driven VWs, Chevies, Datsuns etc. Partswise you could sorta do it but then you'd have to know all the specs from your neighbors spec sheet.







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> blah blah blah ceadder. you know we are all tired of hearing you spew the theft garbage dont you? buy it or dont buy it. recommend or not. those are your choices. spewing the same crap everytime a brand is shown or mentioned isnt needed or wanted.
> no i dont care what you think. the world doesnt revolve around you and your opinion.


Theft is theft. I cannot help that people could give doggy poo about our market. Cause if you did you certainly would understand that it hurts us all. I will make a concerted effort to limit my response to the matter in the future. But I never said a bleedin thing one about Barrows this time. Sorry if the land of knockoffs once again chose to target our otherwise merry band of water cooling enthusiasts. Maybe if EVERYBODY stopped buying knockoffs, I wouldn't have an opportunity to irritate you and everyone else who don't give a rip about our hobby.

An please leave the "budget" argument at the door. I'm probably the most broke-dingy person here and if I didn't care I wouldn't post input on the subject at all. And this is the only time you see anything judgemental coming from me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Laithan

It's about jobs.. What about all the poor starving patent troll lawyers that need to feed their families... nobody cares about the fact that they depend upon ripoffs to bring home the bacon?



Spoiler: The Pewp!



Actually I'm not being serious AT ALL and just (hopefully) bringing some light







. Insert the catch-phrase "most lawyers are scum" here..


----------



## wermad

Overall, we all need to be more constructive (and sometimes a bit more mature) in our posts as you don't want to come off as a jerk towards members who are seeking help. Stating you don't like something is fine, but try to justify your opinion in a constructive manner and don't let it drag on like bickering school girls. I've been part of some nasty battles with ppl who just come in and thread crap on brands or products and don't let up. As a result, I've known members leaving ocn because of the hostilities. Trust me, you don't want these nasty battles. No one (and their ego) wins and it only deters members from enjoying the site. Let's just move on if we're not helping the community, shall we?

W211 E63 or E39 M5....ugh...(*I*) can't have both perfect worlds







.



Spoiler: Warning: Awsome plus 20%!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Overall, we all need to be more constructive (and sometimes a bit more mature) in our posts as you don't want to come off as a jerk towards members who are seeking help. Stating you don't like something is fine, but try to justify your opinion in a constructive manner and don't let it drag on like bickering school girls. I've been part of some nasty battles with ppl who just come in and thread crap on brands or products and don't let up. As a result, I've known members leaving ocn because of the hostilities. Trust me, you don't want these nasty battles. No one (and their ego) wins and it only deters members from enjoying the site. Let's just move on if we're not helping the community, shall we?
> 
> W211 E63 or E39 M5....ugh...(*I*) can't have both perfect worlds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Awsome plus 20%!


Only because I care about the community, is why I even bother to opine on such things. That said if it drives people away when they could simply pass over the discussion well that's a childish move in an of itself. I won't mention other sites here, but there isn't a single one you could join that doesn't have this sort of discussion taking place. It's okay to not wish to take part for whatever reason. But to take issue with anyone who calls out any manufacturer is simply wrong. I'm only judging those who knowingly subvert our community. Not those who purchase/use the product. I wish people wouldn't get in a twist over my stance, because I'm pretty laid back IMHO.









Wish I could afford either of those cards. But I will be content with my 02 Neon and my 89 GL10 4wd. They're paid for and while the GL10 is down, it's fixable when I can set aside the funds for a new exhaust system and battery cables.









I guess I will start spoilering my opinion material so as not to offend.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Like I've said before, It comes down to the Money.

This is how it feels when I need to buy my Bitspower fittings for any build.



TCO


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But to take issue with anyone who calls out any manufacturer is simply wrong.


Also - People will find that manufacturers themselves will have something to say on the matter but not necessarily on forums...









It is of no coincidence that you won't find Barrow & Bitspower fittings or Bykski & EK blocks nestled nicely along each other at your favourite retailer.

The water cooling community is relatively small and everyone knows exactly what is occurring as far as copying etc is concerned.


----------



## wermad

Ppcs.com is only stocking Barrow threaded tube. I'm sure they don't wanna piss off the established brands and carry more Barrow stuff. Same with Modmymodz Barrow selection is pretty limited. It really comes down to what profit margin Barrow offers vs the established brands. I don't think its quite at the same level yet and hence why we don't see these big retailers in the US go all out Barrow (like aliexpress and ebay).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^Wish Corsair would still offer Dominator GTs. Don't really care for the light bars on the Platinum series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's just mean werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blocks don't *have to* be square. So long as the mounting area is clear enough for studs to be used properly, they can be whatever shape the manufacturer wants them to be, to be aesthetically pleasing to the market. Which means they simply could have made it circular, octagonal or hell even triangular. Since there are other companies who've been competing with EK just fine and they do things to make their tops stand out, I have no allusions to the theft. It's not about the crApple stance. It's more a biblical thing with me. "Thou shall not steal" didn't make the top ten, for shiggles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You will like this then,Bitspower have done an MX style block....



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Also - *People will find that manufacturers themselves will have something to say on the matter but not necessarily on forums*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is of no coincidence that you won't find Barrow & Bitspower fittings or Bykski & EK blocks nestled nicely along each other at your favourite retailer.
> 
> The water cooling community is relatively small and everyone knows exactly what is occurring as far as copying etc is concerned.


Being sponsored gives me a great insight on whats goes on behind the scenes,I told BP about Barrow when they first appeared and they were not fazed in the slightest.....There is some sort of cooperation there for sure. Some of the stories of what happens in RL beggar belief...Very much truth is stranger than fiction.

When aesthetic values start being copied then it just shows a lack of care or concern and leads to a stagnated situation. Far better that companies become as diverse aesthetically as they can.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Like I've said before, It comes down to the Money.
> 
> This is how it feels when I need to buy my Bitspower fittings for any build.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Then buy EK or Barrow,they are equally good....better looking certainly.....


----------



## lifeskills

My Define R5 Rig


----------



## wermad

That res looks very tidy


----------



## B NEGATIVE

PSU cover done!





The rest of today is going to be spent truing up everything and getting the door panel planned and maybe cut....
Hopefully anyway....

Diamond Cooling fittings are inbound too!


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Like I've said before, It comes down to the Money.
> 
> This is how it feels when I need to buy my Bitspower fittings for any build.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will like this then,Bitspower have done an MX style block....
> 
> 
> Being sponsored gives me a great insight on whats goes on behind the scenes,I told BP about Barrow when they first appeared and they were not fazed in the slightest.....There is some sort of cooperation there for sure. Some of the stories of what happens in RL beggar belief...Very much truth is stranger than fiction.
> 
> When aesthetic values start being copied then it just shows a lack of care or concern and leads to a stagnated situation. Far better that companies become as diverse aesthetically as they can.
> Then buy EK or Barrow,they are equally good....better looking certainly.....


I can't see myself buying bp fittings, because if I'm broke, there's XSPC, and even if I go expensive. I'm partial to the Monsoon Free Center fittings


----------



## bluej511

Bp is crazy expensive in europe. I saw it and was like what? Why? I got ek ones with ek zmt tubing, super tight. Couple ek 90s and couple nanoxia 45s and 90s does the job and double oring. No leaks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You will like this then,Bitspower have done an MX style block....
> 
> 
> Being sponsored gives me a great insight on whats goes on behind the scenes,I told BP about Barrow when they first appeared and they were not fazed in the slightest.....There is some sort of cooperation there for sure. Some of the stories of what happens in RL beggar belief...Very much truth is stranger than fiction.
> 
> When aesthetic values start being copied then it just shows a lack of care or concern and leads to a stagnated situation. Far better that companies become as diverse aesthetically as they can.
> Then buy EK or Barrow,they are equally good....better looking certainly.....


Yup glad my work carries EK fittings alongside BP and Swiftech, but went with the EK @ $4.35-50/fitting (10/16mm)


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yup glad my work carries EK fittings alongside BP and Swiftech, but went with the EK @ $4.35-50/fitting (10/16mm)


EK fittings.look a lot better than the XSPC IMO so if that's the price difference I'll have to go with those next.


----------



## battleaxe

Some beginning images. I plan to do some more work to it soon. Gonna completely change the tubing and flow setup.

Right now.

EKWB 480 rad
Nexxxos UT60 x 360 RAD
EKWB Evo Acetal CPU block]
EKWB Acetal Universal GPU blocks
Core X9 case...

...more to come.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Some beginning images. I plan to do some more work to it soon. Gonna completely change the tubing and flow setup.
> 
> Right now.
> 
> EKWB 480 rad
> Nexxxos UT60 x 360 RAD
> EKWB Evo Acetal CPU block]
> EKWB Acetal Universal GPU blocks
> Core X9 case...
> 
> ...more to come.


I am a little confused as to what is going on here? I'm all about some copper, but why the pipes?
Edit: vrm I guess. Interesting idea


----------



## Domler

Hey guys. What's your thoughts on primochill hard tubing revolver fitting with acrylic?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I really like the fittings, just be sure to use 12.7mm or 1/2" OD tubing, not 12mm OD.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I am a little confused as to what is going on here? I'm all about some copper, but why the pipes?
> Edit: vrm I guess. Interesting idea


Yes. That's an early photo of when I was experimenting with it. I've cleaned it up some since. Will post more soon. But they are VRM coolers. No full blocks for my cards so I had to improvise.

I'm thinking about getting them chrome plated or painting them black. Can't decide.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Hey guys. What's your thoughts on primochill hard tubing revolver fitting with acrylic?


I've used the Revolvers now in several builds, and really like the way you can swap tops so you don't have to stock so many fittings.

I found that using the Primochill rigid acrylic works best with them. . . . . Even a few thousandths of an inch too small in OD and they won't hold pressure well.

I had 0.498" tube pop out an about 12 psi, while Primochill tube at 0.506" stayed perfect.

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> EK fittings.look a lot better than the XSPC IMO so if that's the price difference I'll have to go with those next.


Well that price was with my employee discount they normally go for 6-7.99 (US)/fitting - and I'm going back to soft tubing for now since I plan on swapping components quite a bit in the next year


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well that price was with my employee discount they normally go for 6-7.99 (US)/fitting - and I'm going back to soft tubing for now since I plan on swapping components quite a bit in the next year


Oh.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then buy EK or Barrow,they are equally good....better looking certainly.....


Nah.. I can't agree with you about the looks. Id rather have the Bits in my build. Great quality (never had a problem with any of them) and love the White color they produce.

TCO


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nah.. I can't agree with you about the looks. Id rather have the Bits in my build. Great quality (never had a problem with any of them) and love the White color they produce.
> 
> TCO


Same here, bitspower fittings look way better to me.


----------



## nyk20z3




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nah.. I can't agree with you about the looks. Id rather have the Bits in my build. Great quality (never had a problem with any of them) and love the White color they produce.
> 
> TCO


The only difference between them is the dragon. You like the dragon so much you are willing to pay double the price?
The EK AF fittings are really good,I use those and Bitspower a lot.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The only difference between them is the dragon. You like the dragon so much you are willing to pay double the price?
> The EK AF fittings are really good,I use those and Bitspower a lot.


I understand the position, I do. I will look at what Ek has to offer when getting closer to building the S3 and Pedestal, but I don't like change B Neg.... You know this.

Plugs and that small stuff... Ok, I feel you there, but some of the intricate fittings (Snake rotarys and the like ) I don't know If I could swing another brand for that type of stuff.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand the position, I do. I will look at what Ek has to offer when getting closer to building the S3 and Pedestal, but I don't like change B Neg.... You know this.
> 
> Plugs and that small stuff... Ok, I feel you there, but some of the intricate fittings (Snake rotarys and the like ) I don't know If I could swing another brand for that type of stuff.
> 
> TCO


All fittings leak,Bitspower are no exception.

I love the quality and feel of Bitspower,I really do,but dont fall into the trap of discounting good products because of brand loyalty.....especially since you have not seen the size of Vincents yacht.......

There are only 3 companies I dont buy from,Alphacool,Primochill and Koolance. I have very good reasons not to like these companies in a direct way because of direct and very real problems with products.

Cue the conspiracy white knights in 3.... 2..... 1.....


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand the position, I do. I will look at what Ek has to offer when getting closer to building the S3 and Pedestal, but I don't like change B Neg.... You know this.
> 
> Plugs and that small stuff... Ok, I feel you there, but some of the intricate fittings (Snake rotarys and the like ) I don't know If I could swing another brand for that type of stuff.
> 
> TCO


Well seeing as many of us have been running other brands of snake rotaries and similar without issue. Your concerns are without merit. If you think bitspower invented the wheel they didn't.. they merely were the first to refine it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Oh.....


My Barrows came out ~$2.65 usd for the straight fittings, ~$6.50 for the single rotary 90° w/ fitting, and ~$6.80 for the dual fitting 90° each through aliepxress (USD). I ended up needing a ton of them and I was able to haggle for discounted shipping to get them quicker (DHL). Overall, I was so impressed I placed a second large order for Barrow parts (pump top, D5 housing, more fittings, plugs, etc.). I scratched mine a bit so you gotta be careful. I took the loop apart a few times.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


And these are different to the EK AF 90 fittings how?










Using you pic as an example to TCO Wermad.


----------



## wermad

*Just an fyi:*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And these are different to the EK AF 90 fittings how?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using you pic as an example to TCO Wermad.


Barrow offers the same 90, but I went with the one that has a hardline fitting already fixed on them:



Hardline 90:



Its the same triple o-ring design as the standard straight fitting (two inner "friction" and one compression o-ring between the locking ring and the fitting.

edit: It's slightly cheaper to get the one with the fixed fitting and its less parts to deal with. These guys I ended up needing more of and ran out quickly twice







. I made it work in the end w/ the straight and dual 90s but down the road, I'll order a few more to slightly tweak the loop.


----------



## Daggi

Hey
I used several EK AF 90 fittings but some of them wasn't 90 degrees, more like 86 degrees and was very loose in the rotary connection. So i got back to using Bitspower. Does anyone know if EK has that sorted out?


----------



## wermad

You may get a slight nudge with rotaries. I've had it happen on many brands. As long as its not excessive, it should not leak. Though the angle can be slightly change via this variance once the tube is installed and pushing on the fitting. If the fitting leans inwards @ 86°, it could be to compensate for this movement and when the tube is installed, it should nudge it back to 90°. Well, that's my theory









Have you reached out to EK support? I'm sure they could help you with this concern


----------



## Recursion




----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You may get a slight nudge with rotaries. I've had it happen on many brands. As long as its not excessive, it should not leak. Though the angle can be slightly change via this variance once the tube is installed and pushing on the fitting. If the fitting leans inwards @ 86°, it could be to compensate for this movement and when the tube is installed, it should nudge it back to 90°. Well, that's my theory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you reached out to EK support? I'm sure they could help you with this concern


The angle is still wrong on my fittings, they stand still at 86°, I know other had the same problem.
No haven't asked support yet, but I'll send a mail and ask.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey
> I used several EK AF 90 fittings but some of them wasn't 90 degrees, more like 86 degrees and was very loose in the rotary connection. So i got back to using Bitspower. Does anyone know if EK has that sorted out?


I got a 90 degree one, switched my tubing and bam too much wobble started leaking. Got rid of it put a new nanoxia in its place. My other eks on the gpu are fine.


----------



## Laithan

Dumb n00b question... I ordered 2 LEDs to light up my water block and flow indicator but neither one of them work.. What's the chances of both being bad? Figured I am doing something wrong.... I ordered them with a "3pin" option instead of a 2pin but I've switched the pins around and no matter what I do I can't seem to get them to light up. I tried plugging them into a fan header and also with a Molex --> female 3pin adapter... they won't light..

http://www.performance-pcs.com/pre-wired-leds/led-pre-wired-with-connectors-3mm-blue.html


----------



## BWAS1000

While checking the seller I bought my block from, I noticed they have DDC Vario pumps. Do any other brands sell DDC Varios? I've seen many D5 Varios, but never a DDC. have I just been missing something?-


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> While checking the seller I bough my block from, I noticed they have DDC Vario pumps. Do any other brands sell DDC Varios? I've seen many D5 Varios, but never a DDC. have I just been missing something?-


I don't think so. That looks like a very "custom" (albeit somewhat attractive for what it is) solution. Not something implemented by a manufacturer, but rather, a retailer after the fact, similar to Performance PCs and other niche distributors doing things like sleeving fan cables.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I don't think so. That looks like a very "custom" (albeit somewhat attractive for what it is) solution. Not something implemented by a manufacturer, but rather, a retailer after the fact, similar to Performance PCs and other niche distributors doing things like sleeving fan cables.


That's what I thought. A custom DDC with top for 75. Seems like a decent price since an Alphacool Single Edition will run you around 55, and another 10-15 for a top like that, or more.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All fittings leak,Bitspower are no exception.
> 
> I love the *quality and feel* of Bitspower,I really do,but dont fall into the trap of discounting good products because of brand loyalty.....especially since you have not seen the size of Vincents yacht.......
> 
> There are only 3 companies I dont buy from,Alphacool,Primochill and Koolance. I have very good reasons not to like these companies in a direct way because of direct and very real problems with products.


That bold right there, I don't mind paying for the Feel. Like "Oh, Dude, Wait you used the White Bitspower fittings in your build? That looks Epic Man"

High Five Ensues, or Hugs... Just that Connection between Dragons I suppose











Maybe Since I was born in 88' (Year of the Dragon) that I feel connected to the fittings? That the stars finally aligned and I was paired with a company that understood how and what I feel things that I need should Look and Feel like?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Well seeing as many of us have been running other brands of snake rotaries and similar without issue. Your concerns are without merit. If you think bitspower invented the wheel they didn't.. they merely were the first to refine it.




Sit back and relax Joker.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And these are different to the EK AF 90 fittings how?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using you pic as an example to TCO Wermad.


I see what you did there. And I appreciate it.









TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All fittings leak,Bitspower are no exception.
> 
> I love the quality and feel of Bitspower,I really do,but dont fall into the trap of discounting good products because of brand loyalty.....especially since you have not seen the size of Vincents yacht.......
> 
> There are only 3 companies I dont buy from,Alphacool,Primochill and Koolance. I have very good reasons not to like these companies in a direct way because of direct and very real problems with products.
> 
> Cue the conspiracy white knights in 3.... 2..... 1.....


Curious to reason behind PrimoChill, and I can understand alphacool and koolance, other than I know of the issues that Prino has had and still has with tubing that fortunately I haven't experienced. But would like your insight, since you know the industry far better than I do


----------



## ozzy1925

barrow 90 rotaries are longer than bp ones and the finish looks very low quality


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sit back and relax Joker.
> 
> TCO


sure bud, build however you want


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> sure bud, *build however you want*


Oh I know that. We were talking about fittings though.

TCO


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh I know that. We were talking about fittings though.
> 
> TCO


really? gosh I thought we were talking about vacuums. damn.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> really? gosh I thought we were talking about vacuums. damn.


Well I guess I'm glad we are back on the true subject then.

TCO


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Curious to reason behind PrimoChill, and I can understand alphacool and koolance, other than I know of the issues that Prino has had and still has with tubing that fortunately I haven't experienced. But would like your insight, since you know the industry far better than I do


Im curious about alphacool i got their rads and gpu block have no issues with it. Even the rads were super clean after a flush.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^Wish Corsair would still offer Dominator GTs. Don't really care for the light bars on the Platinum series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's just mean werm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blocks don't *have to* be square. So long as the mounting area is clear enough for studs to be used properly, they can be whatever shape the manufacturer wants them to be, to be aesthetically pleasing to the market. Which means they simply could have made it circular, octagonal or hell even triangular. Since there are other companies who've been competing with EK just fine and they do things to make their tops stand out, I have no allusions to the theft. It's not about the crApple stance. It's more a biblical thing with me. "Thou shall not steal" didn't make the top ten, for shiggles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will like this then,Bitspower have done an MX style block....
Click to expand...

Saw that too. But I expect some back and forth from the established brands. BP also had the RAM blocks that were similar to EK's dominator blocks but they did add their own touches to them. They didn't simply copy and paste the design to their manufacturer.

I also agree with your take on cooperation between manufacturers. EK wouldn't have their rotary fittings if there wasn't any cooperation between them and BP.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PSU cover done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of today is going to be spent truing up everything and getting the door panel planned and maybe cut....
> Hopefully anyway....
> 
> Diamond Cooling fittings are inbound too!


Love that PSU backplate. Simply droolworthy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> *Bp is crazy expensive.*


Fixed. It's pretty sad that there is as high a price jump from one color of BP fitting to another. And personally I find it sort of offensive. Especially when other companies don't charge any differently from one color to the next. i.e. Monsoon, PrimoChill etc.

It's one reason I tend to add something else to my orders, than BP parts I really need to complete my loop. My BP order is gonna be crazy enough, so I tend to put those parts on hold while fleshing out the other parts in the loop. When I can purchase a Radiator(+$25) for a touch more than what it costs for a Red Shutoff Valve and save some shipping due to "weight" which shouldn't ever happen with flat rate shipping it's pretty sad.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> barrow 90 rotaries are longer than bp ones and the finish looks very low quality


I can't opinion first hand on the finish since I never owned black BP nor silver/nickel Barrow. In terms of nickel, BP is very good and XSPC a close second (chrome vs the slight yellow tint to the BP). Alphacool nickel is has a less sheen vs BP and a blue tint to it. Phobya nickel is very basic at really not that great if you're after looks.

From the looks of the other black fittings, I'm not alone in chipping or scraping my paint. It just happens from the install/removal.

Here's a comparison:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> With Aliexpress the shipping is generally included w/ the price. And it isn't the price that bothers me w/ BP, it is the huge painted logos. Plus the black paint on the Barrows is a better matte black vs the BPs. I've used the Barrow 90 degree rotaries in most of my builds for the last year and honestly I wouldn't consider anything else.
> 
> Look at how glossy the BP 'matte' fitting is compared to the Barrow.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-38-3.jpg.html


The standard 90s should be very similar but I can't find a barrow diagram image (unusual as most Barrow fittings have them). If you're referring to the rotary "snake" fittings, those can vary even among the bigger brands.

As for feel and just over ease of use, Barrow is right up there with BP, XSPC (not compression), and Alphacool imho. Enzotech is probably the worst to install, especially soft tube compression. Phobya was pretty decent and in most case engaged right away. Primochill, I don't want to give too much opinion as I only dried tested them and they were ok, I felt the install was very reminiscent of xspc and monsoon.

For the black, the color is a tad brighter on BP if you look at them, though most probably could not tell if the logos were removed. I believe their that good.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> barrow 90 rotaries are longer than bp ones and the finish looks very low quality


ill take a wild guess you don't have any then. As I have both BP and Barrow. as well as some Darkside. They are all the same height and size. They look identical minus the logo


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> barrow 90 rotaries are longer than bp ones


According to the pics I am seeing, this isn't right.

Barrow ... height 26.5mm
Bitspower ... height 26.8mm


----------



## Ceadderman

Stoopid question time...









Kay guys, mineral oil cooling is nothing new. Bout 3 years running or so. So, what do y'all think of running it inside a loop? Pros/Cons?

I am considering trying it with some leftovers an I know I am probably crazy for thinking of this but with a toddler around, I really don't want him playing in an aquarium full of mineral oil.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Stoopid question time...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kay guys, mineral oil cooling is nothing new. Bout 3 years running or so. So, what do y'all think of running it inside a loop? Pros/Cons?
> 
> I am considering trying it with some leftovers an I know I am probably crazy for thinking of this but with a toddler around, I really don't want him playing in an aquarium full of mineral oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My guess is the components may run hotter since the oil will have a lower specific heat, and you don't have the much larger volume that's in a full aquarium to compensate for that. Plus, the regular pump may not like the higher viscousity.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Stoopid question time...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kay guys, mineral oil cooling is nothing new. Bout 3 years running or so. So, what do y'all think of running it inside a loop? Pros/Cons?
> 
> I am considering trying it with some leftovers an I know I am probably crazy for thinking of this but with a toddler around, I really don't want him playing in an aquarium full of mineral oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That is an interesting thought. My guess is that viscosity would be your biggest battle. In a mineral PC, it doesn't make a whole lot of difference how fast it travels really, as long as it flows it brings cool oil back in. But in a multi block rig it might bring flow to a slow crawl.



Patiently awaiting your results.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can't find a barrow diagram image (unusual as most Barrow fittings have them).


The store 'ZERO Water Cooling' at AliExpress typically has a picture showing the dimensions.

That said ... I looked all over for the dimensions of the new Barrow valve (the one with the metal handle) and I couldn't find it. Or maybe it was the dimensions of the old Barrow valve ... can't remember now. I wanted to compare the two.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can't opinion first hand on the finish since I never owned black BP nor silver/nickel Barrow. In terms of nickel, BP is very good and XSPC a close second (chrome vs the slight yellow tint to the BP). Alphacool nickel is has a less sheen vs BP and a blue tint to it. Phobya nickel is very basic at really not that great if you're after looks.
> 
> From the looks of the other black fittings, I'm not alone in chipping or scraping my paint. It just happens from the install/removal.
> 
> Here's a comparison:
> The standard 90s should be very similar but I can't find a barrow diagram image (unusual as most Barrow fittings have them). If you're referring to the rotary "snake" fittings, those can vary even among the bigger brands.
> 
> As for feel and just over ease of use, Barrow is right up there with BP, XSPC (not compression), and Alphacool imho. Enzotech is probably the worst to install, especially soft tube compression. Phobya was pretty decent and in most case engaged right away. Primochill, I don't want to give too much opinion as I only dried tested them and they were ok, I felt the install was very reminiscent of xspc and monsoon.
> 
> For the black, the color is a tad brighter on BP if you look at them, though most probably could not tell if the logos were removed. I believe their that good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> ill take a wild guess you don't have any then. As I have both BP and Barrow. as well as some Darkside. They are all the same height and size. They look identical minus the logo


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> According to the pics I am seeing, this isn't right.
> 
> Barrow ... height 26.5mm
> Bitspower ... height 26.8mm


I dont know about black but as i said the silver barrow 90 rotaries that i have are longer than the bp 90 rotaries and you can tell the low quality by holding the barrows .I will post pics tomorrow


----------



## wermad

Some of the early facsimile fittings were crap and were replicas of many different established brands. I also heard some of the early Barrow was very similar until things changed and ppl found their stuff very good. I ended up buying some of these early knock-offs (they weren't labeled Barrow) and it was pretty much xspc 10mm (v1) extender and Enzotech rotary 90° adapter likes. The finish was a bit dull on the extenders and the 90s leaked or the rotary ceased eventually one broke cleanly off after a short while of use. Also, these 90s corroded very quickly questioning the brass make up of them.

Over time, I started to see the newer Barrow stuff and more and more members started looking into them. When I saw @lowfat use barrows, along with his and other member's pictures, I was more solidified in using them instead of the very expensive alternatives. BP does have the style and colors that are extremely appealing to me (and probably to the majority of users out there). Barrow brings that very close at an affordable price. I think Barrow is the Hyundai Genesis of water cooling products


----------



## r4ven

Noob question time!

Apologies in advance if I'm asking in the wrong spot; do video cards of the same series typically have the same overclock potential? eg: Geforce 980Ti from 2 different manufacturers or even different versions from the same manufacturer, reference vs classified etc. Does anyone have a good site / guides that they can point me in the direction of? I'm doing a bit of shopping around now so I want to a bit of study/reading up to ensure I'm well informed before I spend the big biccies $$!

Other noob question, how do you normally go about sourcing a compatible water block or is VGA card choice driven by the availability of blocks instead of the other way around? Are there any good resources for this?

Thanks,
r4ven.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Noob question time!
> 
> Apologies in advance if I'm asking in the wrong spot; do video cards of the same series typically have the same overclock potential? eg: Geforce 980Ti from 2 different manufacturers or even different versions from the same manufacturer, reference vs classified etc. Does anyone have a good site / guides that they can point me in the direction of? I'm doing a bit of shopping around now so I want to a bit of study/reading up to ensure I'm well informed before I spend the big biccies $$!
> 
> Other noob question, how do you normally go about sourcing a compatible water block or is VGA card choice driven by the availability of blocks instead of the other way around? Are there any good resources for this?
> 
> Thanks,
> r4ven.


There's usually a small window multiple gpu cores will run together. After this threshold, its a toss up and not really guaranteed when your getting the vanilla or standard version. You can pay a bit more for factory overclock units that should work at that speed or "binned" cards that are the best of the best (and you'll pay a lot for these).

Every core is different so its hard to start tossing specific #s. WE have a general section for graphics, one for amd, and one for nvidia. If you have a specific model in mind, there should be a club to give you more finite answers. If you're still unsure on which card, use the general section. If you know you want nvidia, or amd, go to that section.

http://www.overclock.net/f/74/graphics-cards-general

http://www.overclock.net/f/67/amd-ati

http://www.overclock.net/f/69/nvidia

For water blocks, generally the "reference" design set forth by either nvidia or amd generally gets a block. But not all models have them and you have to be careful as some brands will tweak the reference design making blocks imcompatible. Custom pcb cards may not have blocks but asking in the said club/thread can lend you some more info. Ek has a nice library of blocks and which cards are compatible. Most other block makers will stick with reference with a few exceptions, so the ek list is very good.

If you can't find a block for your new cards, you can always go with a gpu "aio" cooler. Its basically slapping a liquid closed cooler, traditionally used on cpu's, on a graphics card. There are kits to make this conversion easy and allows you to maintain some sort of cooling for the vrm and vram.

Good luck


----------



## kizwan

Anyone using some kind of suction when draining the loop? Using for example drill pump or aquarium pump? Care to share pic of your setup?


----------



## wermad

I usually blow on one end







. Though I'm thinking if my datavac will be too much.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I usually blow on one end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Though I'm thinking if my datavac will be too much.


I've seen this being done every now and then. Don't you contamine the loop or is it OK if you're going to disassemble and clean the loop?


----------



## wermad

With frequent basic hygene, it should be ok







. I had this fear too and rinsed with mouth wash. Try not to do it while having lunch though (lol).


----------



## 0ldChicken

I'll usually use the air pump that i use to leak test to push a bit more out than would come on it's own


----------



## wiretap

A squeeze bottle with a long 1/4" or smaller tube attached to it works pretty well for assisting water removal from your loop. Take off a fitting, then suction all the water out, move onto the next area and suction it out, and so-on. Other than that, having a drain port on the bottom with a vent port on top works. You can open the drain port and vent port, then let it all drain.. then use low pressure forced air in the vent port to blow out the rest of the water. But, by far the easiest way is to just install quick disconnect fittings on all your blocks. You can then remove each block and tubing section individually and drain/clean them with zero spills.


----------



## Willius

Making Some progress


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making Some progress


Good Stuff!

TCO


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I usually blow on one end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Though I'm thinking if my datavac will be too much.


I once used a shopvac, holding the hose about 1-2 inches away from the tubing.







I would NOT recommend that method though lol


----------



## gree

Does the heatkiller iv cpu block not use normal fittings?

Having troubling trying to figure out how to get my two 90s on it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Does the heatkiller iv cpu block not use normal fittings?
> 
> Having troubling trying to figure out how to get my two 90s on it


it does use normal fittings. But if the fittings is too big it might be close to one another. here a pic of it:


----------



## gree

Yeah cos they're 90* they're wider so I can't turn them. I just got my fitting from performance pcs so I'm stuck with them probably


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Yeah cos they're 90* they're wider so I can't turn them. I just got my fitting from performance pcs so I'm stuck with them probably


are they not rotaries?


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> are they not rotaries?


They are. I can tighten one, but when I try to screw the other one I can't turn it all the way because the other fitting is in the way. And for my loop to work as planned I need both to be 90s


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> l


Just looked up the waterblock stats and found:
*Improved fittings compatibility: 16/10 and 19/13 fittings possible - thanks to a thread distance of 25mm*

And looks like my fittings are 27.5 so there's the problem :/


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> are they not rotaries?
> 
> 
> 
> They are. I can tighten one, but when I try to screw the other one I can't turn it all the way because the other fitting is in the way. And for my loop to work as planned I need both to be 90s
Click to expand...

I don't think you are getting what rotary is. The fitting should be able to spin around on the block. BP fittings can be really tough to rotate sometimes. HERE is a good overview of fittings video, I think he shows how the rotaries work.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

All this rotary tank has me thinking of a different kind of rotary.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> All this rotary tank has me thinking of a different kind of rotary.


Mazda RX7 motor?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Anyone using some kind of suction when draining the loop? Using for example drill pump or aquarium pump? Care to share pic of your setup?


At harbor freight or any auto place they have a pump you would use to get gas out of you re gas tank of a car. It has a hand pump, reservoir and hoses. This works amazing if you can access your reservoir as it will just suck everything out. I can't use one with my setup so unused my drain and than I crack my ball valve and run the system as I add distilled in. Blowing through works but I don't like how it fogs the tubes up


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Just looked up the waterblock stats and found:
> *Improved fittings compatibility: 16/10 and 19/13 fittings possible - thanks to a thread distance of 25mm*
> 
> And looks like my fittings are 27.5 so there's the problem :/


the base of the fitting should rotate independent of the rest of the fitting, ie: hold the tubing end, and turn the knurled part of it. I do know that I've got rotary fittings that are very difficult to turn, but it is possible
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> All this rotary tank has me thinking of a different kind of rotary.


Mmmmmmmmmmm.... Mazda


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> the base of the fitting should rotate independent of the rest of the fitting, ie: hold the tubing end, and turn the knurled part of it. I do know that I've got rotary fittings that are very difficult to turn, but it is possible
> Mmmmmmmmmmm.... Mazda


Ohhh i get it now thanks ill try that


----------



## bluej511

Yea i think someone is confused on how they work haha. Take em off and turn em a few times get those orings a bit looser. You hold the 90° part and turn the knurled part.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Mazda RX7 motor?


Yes, but not just RX7. The engine was used in many cars. Several befor the RX7 came out. This one pictured is the 13B-MSP from the RX8. I have an 09 RX8. A somewhat rare car.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Ohhh i get it now thanks ill try that


anytime!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yea i think someone is confused on how they work haha. Take em off and turn em a few times get those orings a bit looser. You hold the 90° part and turn the knurled part.


yeah the first barrows I got were wicked hard to turn at first, they're a little better but still way tougher than any other rotary I own lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

Rotary was a great concept but poorly manufactured to the public. But can say on the racing end they work great once tweaked


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> anytime!
> yeah the first barrows I got were wicked hard to turn at first, they're a little better but still way tougher than any other rotary I own lol


Honestly anything with orings (that are somewhat sealed, ie hard line fittings, pumps and so on) its always good to let em sit in water for a bit. So a fitting thats crazy right id just let it sit in some distilled water would make its way in there make it easier.

When we used to do water pumps we used to grease the orings, slide in a lot easier without twisting.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Rotary was a great concept but poorly manufactured to the public. But can say on the racing end they work great once tweaked


They're great in terms of size to power, but not really all that fuel efficient, especially not when you pit them against standard 4-cylinder engines. I mean, they may be in theory, but not when you put them in the real world. Problems with rotor sealing because of temperature changes, unused fuel, blah blah, basically means they'll be down on efficiency forever. They're great on a tracks or small sports cars (RX-7/RX-8), but they're just not an engine that should be marketed at "regular" (i.e. commuters, etc) drivers because they're not normally not worried about getting those extra horses in the same space on their drive to and from work.

(To be perfectly honest, I also think I'd rather have an S2000 than an RX-7 anyway.)


----------



## gree

Used some pliers, chipped a little paint but oh well.

Heres the basic loop



Hoping the back line of the radiator works out as planned.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> All this rotary tank has me thinking of a different kind of rotary.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Mazda RX7 motor?


Braaaaaaaap Stutututu
Brapbrapbrapbrap


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Rotary was a great concept but poorly manufactured to the public. But can say on the racing end they work great once tweaked


As an owner i can say that many of the issues are user/owner related. They can be very reliable. There are a few issues with various versions of the engine. But, overall if taken care of the rotary way they will last.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PSU cover done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of today is going to be spent truing up everything and getting the door panel planned and maybe cut....
> Hopefully anyway....
> 
> Diamond Cooling fittings are inbound too!


In all the traffic, forgot to ask:

Anodizing and maybe some baked enamel paint for highlights in the InWin colors?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> (To be perfectly honest, I also think I'd rather have an S2000 than an RX-7 anyway.)


The S2000 is a great little car, but it just does not "do it" for me. Nothing really all that special about it. If i wanted a two seat roadster, MX5 would be my choice. But, Mazda rotary holds a special place in my heart. Its not perfect. But most great things in life are never perfect.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Rotary was a great concept but poorly manufactured to the public. But can say on the racing end they work great once tweaked
> 
> 
> 
> They're great in terms of size to power, but not really all that fuel efficient, especially not when you pit them against standard 4-cylinder engines. I mean, they may be in theory, but not when you put them in the real world. Problems with rotor sealing because of temperature changes, unused fuel, blah blah, basically means they'll be down on efficiency forever. They're great on a tracks or small sports cars (RX-7/RX-8), but they're just not an engine that should be marketed at "regular" (i.e. commuters, etc) drivers because they're not normally not worried about getting those extra horses in the same space on their drive to and from work.
> 
> (To be perfectly honest, I also think I'd rather have an S2000 than an RX-7 anyway.)
Click to expand...

Actually, iirc ****el Rotaries are very efficient, but they're dirty as all getout emissions-wise. I've seen very fuel efficient 1st Gens that gave Honda Civics a run for their money in fuel economy. Many of them are still on the road even.









~Ceadder


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually, iirc ****el Rotaries are very efficient, but they're dirty as all getout emissions-wise. I've seen very fuel efficient 1st Gens that gave Honda Civics a run for their money in fuel economy. Many of them are still on the road even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No, they aren't. Their efficiency is piss-poor. Renesis has worse gas mileage than an LS series V8.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> The S2000 is a great little car, but it just does not "do it" for me. Nothing really all that special about it. If i wanted a two seat roadster, MX5 would be my choice. But, Mazda rotary holds a special place in my heart. Its not perfect. But most great things in life are never perfect.


That's fair. My cousin got an ND MX5 recently and it's a phenomenal car. My only two real gripes with the S2000 are the low torque (which I can live with because of the gearing) and the electric power steering that's kinda meh. I just happen to love the way the car _feels_. The gearing is phenomenal, the suspension is gorgeous. It's a Honda, so you can't really expect something out of the ordinary (we'll leave the NSX out of this for now), but you can certainly expect it to do its job, and it does it so well. It's just one of those cars that I never want to stop driving. Plus, you can't really go wrong with a 9000 RPM redline on a piston engine.

Also what lowfat said.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually, iirc ****el Rotaries are very efficient, but they're dirty as all getout emissions-wise. I've seen very fuel efficient 1st Gens that gave Honda Civics a run for their money in fuel economy. Many of them are still on the road even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Unfortunately, that's not really the case. You're just not going to get the same fuel efficiency as a piston engine, it's physics. You lose a ton of potential energy by heating up the combustion chamber because of its shape, which is essentially "wasted" fuel. Optimizing your surface area to volume ratio in a combustion chamber means you minimize the amount of energy lost heating up the metal in the chamber, and a cylinder is a much more optimized shape than the shape of a Wanel's chamber.

You also end up spitting some unburned fuel out of the chamber with the exhaust because of the location of the spark plugs in relation to the exhaust. This can be avoided to a degree by adding plugs, but I don't know of anyone who's done this because of the risk of an uneven burn, which would be really bad for power delivery. You can find the numbers out there, but for two cars that weigh the same putting out the same amount of power, you're likely to get a solid 10-12 MPG more out of pistons.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Used some pliers, chipped a little paint but oh well.
> 
> Heres the basic loop
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping the back line of the radiator works out as planned.


Lian PC -O7S?

TCO


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> That's fair. My cousin got an ND MX5 recently and it's a phenomenal car. My only two real gripes with the S2000 are the low torque (which I can live with because of the gearing) and the electric power steering that's kinda meh. I just happen to love the way the car _feels_. The gearing is phenomenal, the suspension is gorgeous. It's a Honda, so you can't really expect something out of the ordinary (we'll leave the NSX out of this for now), but you can certainly expect it to do its job, and it does it so well. It's just one of those cars that I never want to stop driving. Plus, you can't really go wrong with a 9000 RPM redline on a piston engine.


Not really car guy, but from games the NSX looks pretty cool. Do they reall drive better than other sporty cars?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Lian PC -O7S?
> 
> TCO


Yes 07s.

5930k/980ti


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Not really car guy, but from games the NSX looks pretty cool. Do they reall drive better than other sporty cars?
> Yes 07s.
> 
> 5930k/980ti


Mid Mounted engine, maybe not better, but a lot different.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> The S2000 is a great little car, but it just does not "do it" for me. *Nothing really all that special about it.* If i wanted a two seat roadster, MX5 would be my choice. But, Mazda rotary holds a special place in my heart. Its not perfect. But most great things in life are never perfect.


Except for the fact that it has the best HID projectors ever designed.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Not really car guy, but from games the NSX looks pretty cool. Do they reall drive better than other sporty cars?


Unfortunately, I've never gotten the chance to drive one, old or new. It's gotta have its crazy reputation for a reason, though. The thing about the NSX and the S2k is that they're made to fill a role, and from what I know and other peoples' opinions, they do a pretty good job at that.

Sorry for the O/T. In other news, anyone who wants a crazy WC'd ITX rig could look at FPS-CASE1. Winner of MOTM in March of last year, it is/was designed by a friend of mine and just went on preorder here. Support for 480mm of rad space, ATX and SFX PSU support, and tool-less side panels, it's really a killer. He only needs 9 more orders to start production of the first run. They're not exactly cheap, though, so that's something to take into account.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually, iirc ****el Rotaries are very efficient, but they're dirty as all getout emissions-wise. I've seen very fuel efficient 1st Gens that gave Honda Civics a run for their money in fuel economy. Many of them are still on the road even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nope. lol My 8 gets about 20-22mpg cuising on the highway. About 15-16mpg mixed. And around 10mpg when I really put my foot in it. And the 13B-MSP is the most efficient fuel wise of the bunch. lol

But, I don't care. My winter beater is worse getting at best 15-16mpg. 98 GMC K2500 with a 5.7L, 4x4, and a 5-speed. And a lot of rust. lol


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Except for the fact that it has the best HID projectors ever designed.


Are we talking style or performance? Looks about the same as any other projector to me. Can not speak for performance. Never drove one at night.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Are we talking style or performance? Looks about the same as any other projector to me. Can not speak for performance. Never drove one at night.


Performance. The AP1 especially. Throws a better beam than any other low beam headlight on the planet. It was toned down on the AP2 but still better than anything else. They are definitely sought after in the projector retrofitting community.


----------



## wermad

NSX mk1 is a classic, nuff said







.

@Ceadderman ****els are thirsty drunks...one reason why the RX8 was discontinued. When i bought my 07 6 S Wagon in 08, the sales rep was telling me how that was a constant complain from RX8 owners, who were trading them in for either a 3, 6 4cyl, or the 5. Mind you the RX8 had to meet much more higher fuel econmy figures in its run vs the older ****els. Still, it was very bad and the engine output was on the low side during hard economic and gas pricing times. I always argued if you put the s2k's engine in the rx8, that's one "hybrid" I'll drive







.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Performance. The AP1 especially. Throws a better beam than any other low beam headlight on the planet. It was toned down on the AP2 but still better than anything else. They are definitely sought after in the projector retrofitting community.


Would be interesting to compare to the series 2 RX8 projectors. They are a big step up from the originals. They are very good. The high beams are just flat ******ed. lol Great for moonless nights along Lake Superior though. Floods the whole valley with light.


----------



## pc-illiterate

now i drive real * fast, so keep up.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i drive real * fast, so keep up.


Just ran that plate... you've got 2 warrants..

and that poor camera guy










Nice ride


----------



## pc-illiterate

we re almost completely off topic. they are water cooled though. lol.
only nsx i remember ever seeing in a movie.

good-bye, raquel.


----------



## mouacyk

Cars are water-cooled. Whowouldathought.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Cars are water-cooled. Whowouldathought.


real v-dubs arent.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> real v-dubs arent.


Same with "real 911s"

I don't care though. My favorite is the 997 Turbo S. and the 991 Carrera S


----------



## wermad

993 from bad boys...







air cooled powah


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Would be interesting to compare to the series 2 RX8 projectors. They are a big step up from the originals. They are very good. The high beams are just flat ******ed. lol Great for moonless nights along Lake Superior though. Floods the whole valley with light.


They are actually rather good as well. With a few mods they can get probably 90% of the light as an S2000 AP1.


----------



## CroatianSenpai

*1.21 GIGAWATTS [BUILD LOG]*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1595823/build-log-1-21-gigawatts-watercooled-pc-build-vlog-review-corsair-800d-rigid-tubing-petg










*CHECK THE VIDEO OUT !!*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0mODL59AUc


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroatianSenpai*
> 
> *1.21 GIGAWATTS [BUILD LOG]*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1595823/build-log-1-21-gigawatts-watercooled-pc-build-vlog-review-corsair-800d-rigid-tubing-petg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *CHECK THE VIDEO OUT !!*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0mODL59AUc


Finally! Back on topic!









Sweet ride


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Finally! Back on topic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet ride


Looks like someone's over here willing to get our asses in gear (heh).

@CroatianSenpai sweet build, man. Have you ever considered the black aluminum hold-down you can get for the Raystorm instead of the acrylic one? They're only $15 and I think it would look sick under that red face plate.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> we re almost completely off topic. they are water cooled though. lol.
> only nsx i remember ever seeing in a movie.
> 
> good-bye, raquel.


Rotaries are 2/3 water cooled and 1/3 oil cooled. The intake side is heated with water from the exhaust side to help thermal balancing. So, hybrid cooling/heating?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They are actually rather good as well. With a few mods they can get probably 90% of the light as an S2000 AP1.


Hmm... I just planed to change the bulbs at some point. Was going to do that after I bought the car, four years ago. lol


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> @CroatianSenpai sweet build, man. Have you ever considered the black aluminum hold-down you can get for the Raystorm instead of the acrylic one? They're only $15 and I think it would look sick under that red face plate.


Imo, the aluminum Raystorm bracket also adds some additional strength to the assembly.
I've had one for a couple years now, only thing is that it takes away the option of using an led, that the acrylic bracket provided.


----------



## inedenimadam

My PC is going to be sitting for 3+ months starting in may while I am out of the country. Drain it? leave it sit? or plug up pump to run 24/7 til I return? We will have someone in the house, but completely PC incompetent.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> My PC is going to be sitting for 3+ months starting in may while I am out of the country. Drain it? leave it sit? or plug up pump to run 24/7 til I return? We will have someone in the house, but completely PC incompetent.


Drain It, Unplug it and leave it a kiss.

Topic of Vehicles? I hear something about a 5.7L?









I got one of those too. Just got a new ride









Spoiler: TCO's 1986 Chevy C10 SWB, Enter If you Dare.









TCO


----------



## pc-illiterate

clean square. ditch the hood...


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> My PC is going to be sitting for 3+ months starting in may while I am out of the country. Drain it? leave it sit? or plug up pump to run 24/7 til I return? We will have someone in the house, but completely PC incompetent.
> 
> 
> 
> Drain It, Unplug it and leave it a kiss.
> 
> Topic of Vehicles? I hear something about a 5.7L?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got one of those too. Just got a new ride
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: TCO's 1986 Chevy C10 SWB, Enter If you Dare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Allright, drain it is. It is going to be a pain to get it bone dry, but I will give it a shot. That is super clean. When I was a teenager I had a '85 K-10, that was nowhere near as clean, and nowhere near as close to the ground. Welded rear. I miss that truck.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> clean square. *ditch the hood.*..


Not a Chance








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Allright, drain it is. It is going to be a pain to get it bone dry, but I will give it a shot. That is super clean. When I was a teenager I had a '85 K-10, that was nowhere near as clean, and nowhere near as close to the ground. Welded rear. I miss that truck.


You knew the answer was to drain it all along







You were just testing us Nbs in here eh?

Thanks







It's my First truck. Owned the 85' Cutlass Coupe, 3.8L V6 (Pillow seats in the back) Until Now.









TCO


----------



## lklem

Guys, need your opinion on the incident i have facing now. I'm using Bitspower full cover block (consist of Bitspower Summit CPU block, VRM block & PCH block) for Asus X99 Deluxe motherboard for about 10mths, yesterday i try to open the blocks for maintenance i get shocked when i saw the cpu block & VRM block, the blocks were heavily eroded (pls refer to the attached pictures), the BP PCH block & EK 980Ti block were still in perfect condition.

The question i want to ask is whether it was the bad unit for the VRM & CPU block? Should i claim RMA from Bitspower (I bought directly from Bitspower Taiwan).


----------



## Deeptek

^^^
I had my Mosfet block do the same thing. Distilled with the correct additives as well. Was the only piece that did that. I ditched the FC block and went back to EK.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You knew the answer was to drain it all along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You were just testing us Nbs in here eh?


I just wanted to find someone who would help me justify doing something stupid like leaving my PC with H2O in it for 3 months unattended.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Drain It, Unplug it and leave it a kiss.
> 
> Topic of Vehicles? I hear something about a 5.7L?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got one of those too. Just got a new ride
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: TCO's 1986 Chevy C10 SWB, Enter If you Dare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Nice truck! My dad had a 77 GMC High Sierra in the same basic layout. Little bit of lift and modest sized tires. And a 400 small block punched another .30 over after a rebuild. Miss that truck. My 98 GMC with the 5.7 (350) is a pooch. 276,000 miles on the poor old girl. Call he Big Burtha. Since she is big and ugly.



My little rotor motor.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> Guys, need your opinion on the incident i have facing now.


What coolant did you use...?

Were any anticorrosive agents used?


----------



## Alastair

I think the longest I have ever let my pc sit while filled is 4 weeks while I was on holiday.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I think the longest I have ever let my pc sit while filled is 4 weeks while I was on holiday.


2 years after "emptying" my loop. Only issues I had was some growth in the CPU block and a corroded male male rotary extension fitting.









~Ceadder


----------



## lklem

I'm using EK-Ekoolant Blood Red all the while.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> I'm using EK-Ekoolant Blood Red all the while.


Did you add anything else (biocide, anti-microbial, silver)?


----------



## superflex

I thought because Ekoolant was a premix you wouldn't have to add anything else to it.

Unless people do anyways? In that case makes me curious about my loop filled with Primochill fluid...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> 
> Guys, need your opinion on the incident i have facing now. I'm using Bitspower full cover block (consist of Bitspower Summit CPU block, VRM block & PCH block) for Asus X99 Deluxe motherboard for about 10mths, yesterday i try to open the blocks for maintenance i get shocked when i saw the cpu block & VRM block, the blocks were heavily eroded (pls refer to the attached pictures), the BP PCH block & EK 980Ti block were still in perfect condition.
> 
> The question i want to ask is whether it was the bad unit for the VRM & CPU block? Should i claim RMA from Bitspower (I bought directly from Bitspower Taiwan).


The VRM block is shagged,send it back with a sample of the fluid. The rest look like a clean up is in order,get an old toothbrush and get scrubbing,a bit of WD 40 works wonders.

On a side not,there is only 2 Porches worth having....



or..



However....this is where its REALLY at....



Although I would want a series 2 Golf lump in the back....aircooled is nice but I want to get where Im going.....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> 
> Guys, need your opinion on the incident i have facing now. I'm using Bitspower full cover block (consist of Bitspower Summit CPU block, VRM block & PCH block) for Asus X99 Deluxe motherboard for about 10mths, yesterday i try to open the blocks for maintenance i get shocked when i saw the cpu block & VRM block, the blocks were heavily eroded (pls refer to the attached pictures), the BP PCH block & EK 980Ti block were still in perfect condition.
> 
> The question i want to ask is whether it was the bad unit for the VRM & CPU block? Should i claim RMA from Bitspower (I bought directly from Bitspower Taiwan).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The VRM block is shagged,send it back with a sample of the fluid. The rest look like a clean up is in order,get an old toothbrush and get scrubbing,a bit of WD 40 works wonders.
> 
> On a side not,there is only 2 Porches worth having....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning:meh!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However....this is where its REALLY at....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: I'll take two!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I would want a series 2 Golf lump in the back....aircooled is nice but I want to get where Im going.....
Click to expand...

Yup.

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Wow, and I was thinking of getting some bp rve blocks (especially the ice red tops).....









Porsche...if you're a man....you take the widow maker to some twisties....



The 918 kicked some some boo'tieh, (leeeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhh ffffffffffffffffsssssssssstttttttttttteeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrraaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrriiiieeeeeeeeee & peeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhhhhwwwwwwwuuuuuuuuuunnnnnnnnnnnhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh)

It even sent my lovely Huayra home.....respects:



(alright, I'm done with the


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, and I was thinking of getting some bp rve blocks (especially the ice red tops).....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Porsche...if you're a man....you take the widow maker to some twisties....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 918 kicked some some boo'tieh, (leeeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhh ffffffffffffffffsssssssssstttttttttttteeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrraaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrriiiieeeeeeeeee & peeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhhhhwwwwwwwuuuuuuuuuunnnnnnnnnnnhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh)
> 
> It even sent my lovely Huayra home.....respects:
> 
> 
> 
> (alright, I'm done with the


Psh... That's no widowmaker.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Psh... That's no widowmaker.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: 911


Dis someone say widow Maker?


----------



## CroatianSenpai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Looks like someone's over here willing to get our asses in gear (heh).
> 
> @CroatianSenpai sweet build, man. Have you ever considered the black aluminum hold-down you can get for the Raystorm instead of the acrylic one? They're only $15 and I think it would look sick under that red face plate.


Thanks bud ! I have the white light inserted into the white bracket on both sides so it radiates white around it. I think it looks better IMO. The room was super bright when I took those pictures but in the dark the light radiates off the white bracket perfect it's very pretty !


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Psh... That's no widowmaker.


That don't look factory. Anyone can make a dangerous car even without monnies. Hmmm....maybe the Yellow Bird







(never went into production though...)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Dis someone say widow Maker?


If you see Jennifer's review, you know how a handful it was and the Stig had trouble too:






I swear, I'm done


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> My PC is going to be sitting for 3+ months starting in may while I am out of the country. Drain it? leave it sit? or plug up pump to run 24/7 til I return? We will have someone in the house, but completely PC incompetent.


I left one computer filled for more than a year not in use after moving ( left computer at my old place). Besides water tinting blue from the blue tubing, and some plasticizer build up on some of the tubing, it was fine. Nothing built up in waterblock since it wasn't cycled after it was sitting.

I would still recommend draining, I just never got around to it until I needed the parts to build a system for my girlfriend.

I ditched the tubing, but reused the raystorm, and pump. I used distilled and a drop of nuke. It was a cpu only loop, so not much variation in the form of metals in the loop.

My brother had an 88 rx7 turbo II. It drank gas faster than I could drink water. But it handled great, liked it better than his 944 turbo... Only minus was that there was less engine brake than he would have liked.


----------



## PCSarge

figured id stick these in here as a little teaser of the build i completed today. more in the build log in my sig.

Fractal design Define Nano S ITX case


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That don't look factory. Anyone can make a dangerous car even without monnies. Hmmm....maybe the Yellow Bird
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (never went into production though...)
> 
> I swear, I'm done


The first 2 are bone stock and the one in the gif had some mild engine and exhaust modifications, but the body is stock aside from those gorgeous Martini decals.

And the stock ones are probably more dangerous to drive than the modified one, lol

Should probably get back on topic too, but Porsche


----------



## Ceadderman

Just purchased

EK Copper/Acetal x4 Clean CSQ block to tie my MB runs together

And BP 180 Straight and Shutoff Valve in Matte Black. So I'll be able to finish my MB runs but am sitting around for the rest of my upgrade.







lol

An once again, PPCs shipping takes their cut. $14 shipping for 3 parts.









~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

There's a guy selling a bunch of ek stuff, probably from fcpu.com, and he's got some copper acetal blocks. Can't link but just search in ebay and you'll find the dude. He sold a D5 w/ ek top (pwm) for $65 plus s/h. Was tempted to get that but my budget is pretty much nill so I'm sticking with air on the second system


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's a guy selling a bunch of ek stuff, probably from fcpu.com, and he's got some copper acetal blocks. Can't link but just search in ebay and you'll find the dude. He sold a D5 w/ ek top (pwm) for $65 plus s/h. Was tempted to get that but my budget is pretty much nill so I'm sticking with air on the second system
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The d5s were varios I bought one a week ago. I think he had over 10 of them. The shipped from Rochester, NY same area as FCPU
I also got a EK ln2 pot for $75 a few months ago from the same person.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> The d5s were varios I bought one a week ago. I think he had over 10 of them. The shipped from Rochester, NY same area as FCPU
> I also got a EK ln2 pot for $75 a few months ago from the same person.


If we're thinking of the same guy, I got my 970 block from him. Shipped from Rochester, about $20 below market price. The price cut didn't mean much, as my block came with the wrong standoffs and I needed to buy some from EK anyway, but for something like a pump, I see how it could be hard to go wrong.


----------



## lklem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did you add anything else (biocide, anti-microbial, silver)?


I didn't add anything, it is purely the coolant only.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> If we're thinking of the same guy, I got my 970 block from him. Shipped from Rochester, about $20 below market price. The price cut didn't mean much, as my block came with the wrong standoffs and I needed to buy some from EK anyway, but for something like a pump, I see how it could be hard to go wrong.


Yeah the pump was $30 less and the ln2 pot was about $80 less than market price. I also got a ek ram block for cheap too. All BNIB unopened.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> The d5s were varios I bought one a week ago. I think he had over 10 of them. The shipped from Rochester, NY same area as FCPU
> I also got a EK ln2 pot for $75 a few months ago from the same person.


It was definitely pwm and it ended w/ no buyer. He relisted it and it sold a few days later. For sure it was pwm, otherwise, I would have jumped on it to prepare for future water. It was an ek top/reservoir, and ek pwm pump. Guy still has some sweet deals and I'm tempted but nothing has come up that I truly need and I'm bone dry right now with cash. I had to buy new cables and extensions to power on the Ares Mk1 that's going into my second system.

(edit it was this one:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> I didn't add anything, it is purely the coolant only.


As Bnegative said, contact bitspower support and keep a sample of your coolant if they ask for it. There's no surprise the ek did good as its their coolant. I'm not 100% sure if BP still uses electrode plating but that was the old plating ek used and it went bad a few years ago. The changed to electrodeless and its been pretty solid since then though they always recommend their own liquids. I know koolance can suffer from nickel failure if you use copper-sulfate or silver. They also recommend their stuff even though I'm actually running plain distilled. Koolance has done little effort to combat this issue and it could be why a lot of ppl shine away from them. I got my blocks for cheap ($100, vs $220 ek) for my gpu's and I found a used cpu block from them too. So far, I have not noticed anything unusual but I haven't fully opened the blocks to inspect tbh.


----------



## lklem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The VRM block is shagged,send it back with a sample of the fluid. The rest look like a clean up is in order,get an old toothbrush and get scrubbing,a bit of WD 40 works wonders.
> 
> The nickel layer inside the VRM block has been fully eroded, the exposed copper is oxidized causing some small portion been chip off. I'm using Autosol to rub but still hard to get rid of the oxidized parts.


----------



## lklem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It was definitely pwm and it ended w/ no buyer. He relisted it and it sold a few days later. For sure it was pwm, otherwise, I would have jumped on it to prepare for future water. It was an ek top/reservoir, and ek pwm pump. Guy still has some sweet deals and I'm tempted but nothing has come up that I truly need and I'm bone dry right now with cash. I had to buy new cables and extensions to power on the Ares Mk1 that's going into my second system.
> 
> (edit it was this one:
> 
> 
> As Bnegative said, contact bitspower support and keep a sample of your coolant if they ask for it. There's no surprise the ek did good as its their coolant. I'm not 100% sure if BP still uses electrode plating but that was the old plating ek used and it went bad a few years ago. The changed to electrodeless and its been pretty solid since then though they always recommend their own liquids. I know koolance can suffer from nickel failure if you use copper-sulfate or silver. They also recommend their stuff even though I'm actually running plain distilled. Koolance has done little effort to combat this issue and it could be why a lot of ppl shine away from them. I got my blocks for cheap ($100, vs $220 ek) for my gpu's and I found a used cpu block from them too. So far, I have not noticed anything unusual but I haven't fully opened the blocks to inspect tbh.


Thanks bro for your information, I have contacted bitspower, their representative said their engineer will revert to me on my case, i will update the outcome once i got the feedback.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It was definitely pwm and it ended w/ no buyer. He relisted it and it sold a few days later. For sure it was pwm, otherwise, I would have jumped on it to prepare for future water. It was an ek top/reservoir, and ek pwm pump. Guy still has some sweet deals and I'm tempted but nothing has come up that I truly need and I'm bone dry right now with cash. I had to buy new cables and extensions to power on the Ares Mk1 that's going into my second system.


Yeah definitely different guy. All the stuff this guy had was still new in box. He had over 10 each of the d5 pumps and white EK-RES3's but he mostly has EK blocks and some XSPC kits and bitspowers reservoirs. It sure looks like it was from FCPU being from same city and having such large quantities of things. There was even some odd ball EK blocks maybe stuff FCPU had left over and couldn't sell or just had a lot of them.

On a side note is there still a market for delided 3770k if so what are they worth?


----------



## wermad

Oh, that's the guy I got my two D5s from back in december







. just black and red wires?

Ebay is your best bet on older cpu's unless you're looking to sell dirt cheap. Search and keep tabs on what they sell on ebay (you can also search ended/sold listings). If you prefer the forums, that about 15-20% of the ebay going rate and that's what you should aim in forums (accounting for the service fees you pay). Unless its ultra rare, use ebay as a pricing guide/tool.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> Thanks bro for your information, I have contacted bitspower, their representative said their engineer will revert to me on my case, i will update the outcome once i got the feedback.


Good luck


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Oh, that's the guy I got my two D5s from back in december
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . just black and red wires?
> 
> Ebay is your best bet on older cpu's unless you're looking to sell dirt cheap. Search and keep tabs on what they sell on ebay (you can also search ended/sold listings). If you prefer the forums, that about 15-20% of the ebay going rate and that's what you should aim in forums (accounting for the service fees you pay). Unless its ultra rare, use ebay as a pricing guide/tool.
> Good luck


eBay fees are ridiculous, too bad i don't have enough reps yet to sell stuff on here...i had 2 EK Supremacy blocks that i sold for $60 on ebay, after their fees and shipping and paypal, i netted like $45 or something, sigh...

I have another EK block that i'm not gonna use, guess eBay it goes again.


----------



## broken pixel

When you shop after six xIPA's you always here. "If you build it they will come."


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> On a side note is there still a market for delided 3770k if so what are they worth?


alot to someone still running Z77, personally id still prefer an i5 though


----------



## aerial

30l case, 4790k + gtx980, one 2x120 radiator:
1st rev without gpu block: https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/SilverstoneKL06LC





without side panel:


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Lets bring it back to that eBay guy for a minute. If the user is U Trade NY he is 15 mins from my house. He has a bunch of things he hasn't even found yet as he is a massive pawn shop on the north side of the city.

I talked to the owner who was buddies with Mark Friga Jr. When Mark went to jail, this guy took all of his inventory for large things (blocks, pumps, res's) and is just getting rid of it to make a profit.

The benefit I have of being local is that he is a pawn shop. I went there and offered him cash on the spot and paid $20 less for some parts...good ol' dirty pawn shops haha


----------



## lklem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Oh, that's the guy I got my two D5s from back in december
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . just black and red wires?
> 
> Ebay is your best bet on older cpu's unless you're looking to sell dirt cheap. Search and keep tabs on what they sell on ebay (you can also search ended/sold listings). If you prefer the forums, that about 15-20% of the ebay going rate and that's what you should aim in forums (accounting for the service fees you pay). Unless its ultra rare, use ebay as a pricing guide/tool.
> Good luck


Finally Bitspower agreed to replace the VRM & CPU waterblock but I have to return the blocks to Taiwan. Hopefully the replacement will be free of flaw. Anyway would like to thank you guys for advice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> Finally Bitspower agreed to replace the VRM & CPU waterblock but I have to return the blocks to Taiwan. Hopefully the replacement will be free of flaw. Anyway would like to thank you guys for advice.


Awesome news


----------



## Vesimas

At last i started build the new system starting with the video card.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> At last i started build the new system starting with the video card.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And so it begins









Have fun and enjoy the experience


----------



## Vesimas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> And so it begins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun and enjoy the experience


Thank you, it's the first time doing a loop


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> And so it begins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun and enjoy the experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, it's the first time doing a loop
Click to expand...

Congrats on your first loop.
That's a good place to start, the 970 looks great with the EK block.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> Thank you, it's the first time doing a loop


Excellent! Are you doing a hardline loop or soft tube?


----------



## electro2u

Decided to downsize my rig--hoping for some advice on a mATX case. I just can't find the right one and I'm going to have to compromise. I've ordered a M7 Gene so I'm locked in.

I really want somewhere convenient to mount my Aquaero so that I can touch the faceplate. I really want it to be a mid-tower, I have a small space to work with and the 750D im currently using is already a little wider than I'd like. Height and depth not so important--except to say that I'd like to be able to use2x240s (or bigger I have a couple 360s and 280s laying around, too) and I want to use my 1st gen Seasonic 1000 Platinum, which is pretty long.

I don't know if my lazy phone photo will help at all, but I really like this basic layout and wanted something like this... like the 350d, but not the 350d.



What should I get?

(yes there are socks in the OD cage. I just removed the dual bay res that was there, because I thought it was making my case hummmmmm, but it's still humming a bit without it.)

Ordered an Ethereal Res mount from Daniel at Singularity computers:


and hopefully with a more solid case and an actual professional mounting system it will solve my hum.


----------



## Vesimas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Excellent! Are you doing a hardline loop or soft tube?


Since it's the first time that i'm doing a lop i'm using Primochill soft tube. Today in the afternoon (now it's almost 4a.m.) i'm going to "wash" the radiators and change the thing flow inside the EK Supremacy


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> Since it's the first time that i'm doing a lop i'm using Primochill soft tube. Today in the afternoon (now it's almost 4a.m.) i'm going to "wash" the radiators and change the thing flow inside the EK Supremacy


Good call with the rads. Have a good sleep and get some rest. No good can come of building a loop with your eyes hanging out of their sockets


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Decided to downsize my rig--hoping for some advice on a mATX case. I just can't find the right one and I'm going to have to compromise. I've ordered a M7 Gene so I'm locked in.
> 
> I really want somewhere convenient to mount my Aquaero so that I can touch the faceplate. I really want it to be a mid-tower, I have a small space to work with and the 750D im currently using is already a little wider than I'd like. Height and depth not so important--except to say that I'd like to be able to use2x240s (or bigger I have a couple 360s and 280s laying around, too) and I want to use my 1st gen Seasonic 1000 Platinum, which is pretty long.
> 
> I don't know if my lazy phone photo will help at all, but I really like this basic layout and wanted something like this... like the 350d, but not the 350d.
> 
> 
> 
> What should I get?
> 
> (yes there are socks in the OD cage. I just removed the dual bay res that was there, because I thought it was making my case hummmmmm, but it's still humming a bit without it.)
> 
> Ordered an Ethereal Res mount from Daniel at Singularity computers:
> 
> 
> and hopefully with a more solid case and an actual professional mounting system it will solve my hum.


Fractal Design Arc Mini


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay, so after a few games in Star Wars Battlefront, All ultra 3440x1440P 75-90 FPS my 980 Ti is working his knees off.
> 
> As I said I have 2x 120 Radiators, one for each component. Both with a 3000Rpm Vardar and a 15mm 1600Rpm fan.
> 
> Pumps are on level 3, fans all 100%, My gpu, which produce some INSANE heat is going up to 50 degrees Celcius. And the problem here is that my water then goes up to around 45C degrees.
> 
> And when my water reaches 45C my led diodes and RGB controllers are going nuts. And the overall loop is insanely warm. Afraid that the Monsoon hardline fittings and glue are going to make another fountain.
> 
> I've have a Tristellar. I can not add any more fans or Radiators if I am not buying one of those Extentention radiators, those huge things you have outside the case.


What rads do you have right now, and what is your room temp when you are gaming? One thing I could suggest is to change the rads to ones with higher FPI, especially given your fan arrangement. I managed to cool just over 300W of components with a water temp of ~15C above ambient with a 30fpi koolance 120x30mm rad and an 1850rpm Scythe GT AP15 fan at full speed in push.. Changing to two of those rads would help you I think (HX-CU420V).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> It's been over a year since I've sold my rig and moved into other things but I'm getting the itch again.
> 
> I'm curious if anyone can give me any quick case advice on any new mini ITX cases that have come out recently that are watercooling capable?
> 
> Looking for something that can support like a 240 and a 120 plus CPU, GPU and at least an SSD.
> 
> Like I said I'm pretty out the of the loop as of late. Looking for somewhere to start.


The Fractal Design Core 500 is decent and should be relatively easy to get.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> It's been over a year since I've sold my rig and moved into other things but I'm getting the itch again.
> 
> I'm curious if anyone can give me any quick case advice on any new mini ITX cases that have come out recently that are watercooling capable?
> 
> Looking for something that can support like a 240 and a 120 plus CPU, GPU and at least an SSD.
> 
> Like I said I'm pretty out the of the loop as of late. Looking for somewhere to start.


Maybe a Caselabs Nova X2M? Has support for dual 240 rads.

I made some more progress to my build.



It is very tight, but it fits.

I should probably make a build log, so it isn't all scattered across several topics.


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Decided to downsize my rig--hoping for some advice on a mATX case.
> 
> What should I get?


I would say fractal arc mini r2. It Is relatively compact, and can fit a good deal of radiator for the space.


----------



## PCSarge

tine to become part of this again:





bad lighting and bad camera i know. thats currently how my sig rig looks.

soon to have some cable combs installed.... the OCD is nearly over


----------



## EMUracing

Made a little progress on my current rebuild... Waiting on screws for my ek7950 backplate, got the block a few years ago, with backplate, and it never has screws. The block and backplate were sitting in a box for that time waiting until I finally moved the pc to a new case.



Trying to decide if I want to change the 240 for a 360, ditch the bay res, and move the pump res down near the the bottom intake fan. Would go with a short primochill d5 enabled tube res in that case and mount it to the fan.



T line for fill which would be drilled through the top of the case, and covered by top panel.

Disappointed that I cannot mount psu to intake from bottom with 120 fan next to it. Interferes with modular cable plugs.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> Disappointed that I cannot mount psu to intake from bottom with 120 fan next to it. Interferes with modular cable plugs.


From looking at your case pics I'm not clear why you wouldn't be able to flip it? You actually should flip it because you are exhausting hot air directly into your GPU.


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> From looking at your case pics I'm not clear why you wouldn't be able to flip it? You actually should flip it because you are exhausting hot air directly into your GPU.


if I flip the psu, the modular connectors hit the fan. Can't plug them in... With them plugged in I need about 3-4mm more clearance than is available. I had originally intended for the psu fan to point down. It also has a much cleaner run for the non modular cables to the grommet.

I'm not terribly concerned as there should be more than enough positive pressure from the front 180/200 and lower 120 to not have the psu air rise into the case much. I may remove the 200 if I move my reservoir/pump to that area...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> From looking at your case pics I'm not clear why you wouldn't be able to flip it? You actually should flip it because you are exhausting hot air directly into your GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> if I flip the psu, the modular connectors hit the fan. Can't plug them in... With them plugged in I need about 3-4mm more clearance than is available. I had originally intended for the psu fan to point down. It also has a much cleaner run for the non modular cables to the grommet.
> 
> I'm not terribly concerned as there should be more than enough positive pressure from the front 180/200 and lower 120 to not have the psu air rise into the case much. I may remove the 200 if I move my reservoir/pump to that area...
Click to expand...

Time to carve the fan with your trusty Dremel. I'm sure you can get some space from the body of that fan.









Edit... Mebbe not if that's an Enermax fan.









Poop, definitely not. I doubt the sides of that are even large enough to take even 3mm off without cutting into the fan area.









~Ceadder


----------



## Domler

FYI. Just received email. Sma8 two tone has shipped. Ordered Feb 28th. Now to check my mailbox to see if it's here. ?


----------



## Laithan

I was incorrect, not sure why I thought that..


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I'd recommend to just remove the fan (or replace it) before I'd blow hot air into my GPU...


What hot air am I blowing into the gpu? The psu exhausts out the rear of the case, and with good positive pressure, the residual heat convection should be minor. Front radiator is after the upper in the loop, so the water temperature is a little cooler with that the upper exhausting and the front being an intake. The lower 120 fan is the only fresh air intake not passing through a radiator.

Also, the video card will have a full cover EK block as soon as the screws arrive for the backplate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I was incorrect, not sure why I thought that..


No worries, happens to the best of us... The psu is so much more streamlines with the fan down. I just feel that performance will be better with the 120 bottom intake than without.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Time to carve the fan with your trusty Dremel. I'm sure you can get some space from the body of that fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit... Mebbe not if that's an Enermax fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Poop, definitely not. I doubt the sides of that are even large enough to take even 3mm off without cutting into the fan area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The fan is a Zalman that my bro had sitting around... It matched the color scheme I was going for so he threw it my way. I thought about cutting it, but there really is no space since the plugs would hit the blades at that point. Maybe I can short mod the plugs... But wouldn't want to do that with the originals, and haven't found replacements.

I have carved fans for fitment before... 2x 180mm ap182 for my first wc build. Had to clear mobo tray to get them to fit.

(Work in progress pic)

Trying to finish this build on a very low budget. Only put in about $40 for fittings besides what I have already had...


----------



## VSG

Some rotary 90º fittings, I remember people talking about this earlier:




























From left to right, it is EK-XSPC-Alphacool-Barrow-Bitspower. The EK fitting was not in a silver/nickel finish to begin with, so excuse the color. The Bitspower one has seen use also, hence the light tarnish.


----------



## Radnad

Great side by side visual geggeg, thank you! The best reason I love this is hopes that it puts to rest the Barrow and BP contraversy because I can plainly see distinct differences.


----------



## EMUracing

Great comparison!

Looks like the barrow is not identical to bitspower... It's hard to tell, but the barrow also looks to have the largest inside diameter, or thinnest wall around the 90 bend. I wonder if that could reduce restriction in a loop where many 90 fittings are used in conjunction with a lower power pump?

I would also assume that the xspc would be the most restrictive of the bunch... But really a minor difference on most loops that would only be prevalent when dealing with a high restrictive loop that has low pumping power.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> Looks like the barrow is not identical to bitspower... It's hard to tell, but it also looks to have the largest inside diameter, or thinnest wall around the 90 bend. I wonder if that could reduce restriction in a loop where many 90 fittings are used in conjunction with a lower power pump?
> 
> I would also assume that the xspc would be the most restrictive of the bunch...


The EK and Barrow look pretty close to each other.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> The EK and Barrow look pretty close to each other.


They do, actually. There's a slight difference but those two are the closest visually to me. Then again EK has revised the designs of their fittings to have vertical lines instead of a knurl so this EK fitting I have is an older one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> Looks like the barrow is not identical to bitspower... It's hard to tell, but it also looks to have the largest inside diameter, or thinnest wall around the 90 bend. I wonder if that could reduce restriction in a loop where many 90 fittings are used in conjunction with a lower power pump?
> 
> I would also assume that the xspc would be the most restrictive of the bunch...
> 
> 
> 
> The EK and Barrow look pretty close to each other.
Click to expand...

Within a few thousandths of an inch of each other from what I can see. Though there s a *slight* difference when visually compared to one another.









Though that doesn't completely absolve them.









~Ceadder


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Within a few thousandths of an inch of each other from what I can see. Though there s a *slight* difference when visually compared to one another.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though that doesn't completely absolve them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


In my eyes, there is a different machining process on the internal section that I can see in the picture. It does not mean that it's not a copy, but it could be more of a reverse engineered copy than an OEM sharing the design.

Having developed hop up parts for RC cars, there is plenty of copy and paste, especially with unbranded Chinese companies. I know all too well how hostile the environment is. I had previously assumed that this was an OEM resell, but now I question whether they are even made in the same factory.

There are only so many ways to make a 90 fitting, and if you are going to make one... Base it off of the most sought after I guess.

I typically use monsoon compression fittings, but don't like their rotary 90. Previously I used EK, on my current build I bought barrow since I have no budget and wanted white. When I get home from work I am going to take one off and look at the insides closer.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Within a few thousandths of an inch of each other from what I can see. Though there s a *slight* difference when visually compared to one another.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Though that doesn't completely absolve them*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my eyes, there is a different machining process on the internal section that I can see in the picture. It does not mean that it's not a copy, but it could be more of a reverse engineered copy than an OEM sharing the design.
> 
> Having developed hop up parts for RC cars, there is plenty of copy and paste, especially with unbranded Chinese companies. I know all too well how hostile the environment is. I had previously assumed that this was an OEM resell, but now I question whether they are even made in the same factory.
> 
> There are only so many ways to make a 90 fitting, and if you are going to make one... Base it off of the most sought after I guess.
> 
> I typically use monsoon compression fittings, but don't like their rotary 90. Previously I used EK, on my current build I bought barrow since I have no budget and wanted white. When I get home from work I am going to take one off and look at the insides closer.
Click to expand...

I wasn't speaking of their fittings. I can see the differences. As you said there are only so many ways to do it. So on those rotary fittings I can't really fault them too much. It's other things that I have issues with the most. Fittings aren't their only game after all.









But I digress. I am trying hard not to get into any more conversations regarding who did what to whom. I do care which is why I ever said anything about them and others.









Although I do disagree with you on the Monsoon rotaries. Those things look ubersmexy imho.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Although I do disagree with you on the Monsoon rotaries. Those things look ubersmexy imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was away from pc for the last couple years... Playing a little catch up so I don't know the details, nor will I ask.

The monsoon rotaries just look like they are inefficient with use of material, and would be hard to squeeze into some spots where smaller ones could.

The only way that I would use the monsoon rotary is if all of the fittings were the same, and all hardline horizontal/vertical lines.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Some rotary 90º fittings, I remember people talking about this earlier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From left to right, it is EK-XSPC-Alphacool-Barrow-Bitspower. The EK fitting was not in a silver/nickel finish to begin with, so excuse the color. The Bitspower one has seen use also, hence the light tarnish.


The only one in the group that looks much different is the XSPC. So we could argue that every other one was a copy of the original. Which was what?

Which one was the first to market to look like this?

They all look good to me. Currently I have the XSPC 90's. No other reason than they were quickest to put in my cart. And they looked fine. Done.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Although I do disagree with you on the Monsoon rotaries. Those things look ubersmexy imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The monsoon rotaries just look like they are inefficient with use of material...
Click to expand...

I kind of agree with this statement. But I feel like it makes them unique for how they lay out the tubing on runs. Had they a 180 rotary I likely would have gone with theirs over the BP 180 Tii rotary I just purchased. I have a 45* and plan to get some 90* Rotaries, and that BP is gonna really stand out.









Quote:


> ... and would be hard to squeeze into some spots where smaller ones could.


Depending on the Case, sure. But that's pretty minimal in my Case. I only have one place on my board(Inlet on MB block) where the extended length would be an issue. I will likely, just bend a 90* for that area in my loop. Everything else I believe will be fine for what I am doing.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Some rotary 90º fittings, I remember people talking about this earlier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From left to right, it is EK-XSPC-Alphacool-Barrow-Bitspower. The EK fitting was not in a silver/nickel finish to begin with, so excuse the color. The Bitspower one has seen use also, hence the light tarnish.


They are all gonna work the same.









Cool Running Man, now let's buy a Mercedes and make a difference in a baby's life.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> They are all gonna work the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool Running Man, now let's buy a Mercedes and make a difference in a baby's life.


I am still curious about your 90 degree fittings. Can you take a picture of both ends?


----------



## iBruce

Photos of both ends are the SAME fitting.

Bits makes these short rotaries in 90s and 45s, without the 10mm knurling.

I just want to know if they have an internal rotational mechanism OR are they static threaded?

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4386_zpsizohk1cv.jpg.html


----------



## Wolfsbora

Those are non-rotaries.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Those are non-rotaries.


I got a nice solid compression seal and was still able to rotate a bit.

Possibly just oring compression, but I have to use at least one of these, to feed tubing from the radiator front.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Those are non-rotaries.


I second that. I have the same fittings.

TCO


----------



## iBruce

Here

is where that short fitting needs to reside (white arrow) radiator front. So I can move the soft tubing in front of the rad and keep it clean in the mid chassis bay.

There is only 25mm of clearance before you hit the CaseLabs chassis front.

I'm trying here.









The other rad port is lateral and fairly simple, I may still cut a hole.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5640_zpsqox9fxz7.png.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Get a couple of extension fittings. Problem solved.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get a couple of extension fittings. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If only it was that easy CeaDar.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get a couple of extension fittings. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If only it was that easy CeaDar.
Click to expand...

I'm going to assume there is a blocking point to where that's just not possible?










Spoiler: Warning: Doh!
























Guess so. Is that for your drain port?









~Ceadder


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Here
> 
> is where that short fitting needs to reside (white arrow) radiator front. So I can move the soft tubing in front of the rad and keep it clean in the mid chassis bay.
> 
> There is only 25mm of clearance before you hit the CaseLabs chassis front.
> 
> I'm trying here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other rad port is lateral and fairly simple, I may still cut a hole.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5640_zpsqox9fxz7.png.html


Is there a reason why you cant flip the rads, right side up?


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry guys. stupid phone issues. lol

~Ceadder


----------



## lklem

My new EK Supremacy Evo full nickel block while waiting for RMA for Bitspower blocks


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5640_zpsqox9fxz7.png.html


I've been eyeing off that new EK dual PWM D5 setup for a while now, any feedback on them?


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> My new EK Supremacy Evo full nickel block while waiting for RMA for Bitspower blocks


Got that block myself, love it! I prefer it to the clean version


----------



## lklem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papa Emeritus*
> 
> Got that block myself, love it! I prefer it to the clean version


Struggling that time when deciding which to go eventually go for CSQ


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Current temps running at 4.4Ghz using 1.275 Core V on the 4690K.

Southern Persuasion Build (S3)

With Chrome Open, Aquasuite (Pump running at full bore, pushing 86Gal/hour)
Also Running Endless Legend on "Ultra" settings at 1080P



TCO

EDIT: Ok after a couple Hours...











Might have to tone it down a bit...


----------



## Ceadderman

Just got my s/o valve and 180 TII fitting today.

First thing I noticed was 180 fitting rotated smoothly. Although I don't recommend manipulating rotary fittings without first dipping them in distilled, I twisted it without much effort. Dipped it when I got it home to lubricate the oring. So no biggee. Works fine and isn't floppy at the least.

S/O valve however was seriously tight. So much so after lightly attempting closing the valve, I successfully resisted the temptation of forcing the issue. Also gave it a bath for a few seconds. When I got it out it twisted smoothly and is fully functional afterward. And I have to say that the valve at first didn't want to fully close. So I dipped it again to make sure I didn't bork the fitting. I then scooped out distilled with each end and noticed that it closed fully with a nice silent "click" feel. So this tells me that if you get one and don't feel this when closing the valve, that it's open. Albeit probably not enough to leak.









I would like to thank the person who suggested giving rotaries and valves a distilled bath. Cause there is simply no way to use silicon lubricant on either type of fitting. BP ships their valves fully open. So there is no way to get loop friendly lubricants such as silicon, onto the ball portion of the valve. It should be obvious why rotaries are same for this.

Also got my Clean CSQ x4 block and oooooooh baby is so smexy.









~Ceadder


----------



## gree

Would anybody in Southern California be interested in completing my build for me inexchange for money?

I have everything, just installing my tubes in driving me coocoo.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Would anybody in Southern California be interested in completing my build for me inexchange for money?
> 
> I have everything, just installing my tubes in driving me coocoo.


Ship it to VA i'll do it for free, then pay for shipping back...lol with that heavy case and glass it's gonna cost you like 1000 bucks tho...

What are you stuck with, this is very simple, everything lines up pretty good in mine, and i have a smaller case.


----------



## gree

Getting tubes in lol. im just sanding away trying to get it to fit but eventually im going to sand too much cos im not really sure what im doing.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just got my s/o valve and 180 TII fitting today.
> 
> First thing I noticed was 180 fitting rotated smoothly. Although I don't recommend manipulating rotary fittings without first dipping them in distilled, I twisted it without much effort. Dipped it when I got it home to lubricate the oring. So no biggee. Works fine and isn't floppy at the least.
> 
> S/O valve however was seriously tight. So much so after lightly attempting closing the valve, I successfully resisted the temptation of forcing the issue. Also gave it a bath for a few seconds. When I got it out it twisted smoothly and is fully functional afterward. And I have to say that the valve at first didn't want to fully close. So I dipped it again to make sure I didn't bork the fitting. I then scooped out distilled with each end and noticed that it closed fully with a nice silent "click" feel. So this tells me that if you get one and don't feel this when closing the valve, that it's open. Albeit probably not enough to leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to thank the person who suggested giving rotaries and valves a distilled bath. Cause there is simply no way to use silicon lubricant on either type of fitting. BP ships their valves fully open. So there is no way to get loop friendly lubricants such as silicon, onto the ball portion of the valve. It should be obvious why rotaries are same for this.
> 
> Also got my Clean CSQ x4 block and oooooooh baby is so smexy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's a good point, I never thought of pre-wetting them in distilled beforehand, with the exception of the pumps, of course.

It's just as well that you can't get silicone grease into the valve.
I used to use silicone grease on the o-rings of my fittings sparingly, but I've discovered after a couple years of running that loop, the stuff kind of glops-up and hardens into small sticky bits, which can get into the loop.
It's very difficult to clean it off after that, and it tends to stick in the threads of the fittings and blocks.

Maybe the type I had wasn't right, but it was made by Moen for plumbing use, so I thought it would be fine.

Just distilled for me now.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Getting tubes in lol. im just sanding away trying to get it to fit but eventually im going to sand too much cos im not really sure what im doing.


Are those compression fittings or pushin type of fittings like C47? if they're compression you don't need to bevel/chamfer the tip, just smooth it out and slip and O ring on top and tighten...if it's the push in type then you have to sand the tip down to make it smaller, smooth it out, then dip it in distill water and push it in the fitting. check out youtube vids, this is simple once u get it started.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Are those compression fittings or pushin type of fittings like C47? if they're compression you don't need to bevel/chamfer the tip, just smooth it out and slip and O ring on top and tighten...if it's the push in type then you have to sand the tip down to make it smaller, smooth it out, then dip it in distill water and push it in the fitting. check out youtube vids, this is simple once u get it started.




How far do i need to slip the tube in?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> 
> 
> How far do i need to slip the tube in?


Okay since you have this type of fitting you will have to sand the tip of the tube, lay the tube on sand paper 300 grit, at 45 degrees and roll it around until the edge gets smaller, then do that again with finer grit like 600...then insert it in as far as u can until it stops...if u dont sand the edge you'll destroy the o-ring in the inside...not necessarily but there's a good chance...


----------



## gree

I thought i did that but the tube wont go in much. Guess ill try and thin it more later


----------



## FXformat

Push it in until you can't anymore, and when u tighten the other part of it the O ring will clamp down and won't leak.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Current temps running at 4.4Ghz using 1.275 Core V on the 4690K.
> 
> Southern Persuasion Build (S3)
> 
> With Chrome Open, Aquasuite (Pump running at full bore, pushing 86Gal/hour)
> Also Running Endless Legend on "Ultra" settings at 1080P
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Ok after a couple Hours...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might have to tone it down a bit...


Wow... my 4670k needs 1.5v to hit those temps...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> I thought i did that but the tube wont go in much. Guess ill try and thin it more later


If you have a small file, you can file the edges. A "rat tail" file works best. Also, you needn't worry(too much anyway) about slicing the internal o-rings. Try to avoid this of course, but those fittings have the 2nd o-ring under the compression collars, so should minor cuts happen during assembly it still shouldn't leak so long as you wet them with distilled prior to putting them onto the ends of your tubing. I think the overall depth is ~8mm on those BP fittings. Bneg will know better than I however. I use Monsoon which I know to be 8mm of internal depth.









~Ceadder


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you have a small file, you can file the edges. A "rat tail" file works best. Also, you needn't worry(too much anyway) about slicing the internal o-rings. Try to avoid this of course, but those fittings have the 2nd o-ring under the compression collars, so should minor cuts happen during assembly it still shouldn't leak so long as you wet them with distilled prior to putting them onto the ends of your tubing. I think the overall depth is ~8mm on those BP fittings. Bneg will know better than I however. I use Monsoon which I know to be 8mm of internal depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ive had several explanations and seem unable to follow directions xD

ill keep at it but Im still offering to pay anybody whos in CA to install the tubes and leak check it for me


----------



## catbuster

What pump would u pick to push through 2x titan blocks, 1 x cpu block and 2x ek xe 480? Would single D5 would be enough? Or maybe DDC?


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> What pump would u pick to push through 2x titan blocks, 1 x cpu block and 2x ek xe 480? Would single D5 would be enough? Or maybe DDC?


Single D5 is sufficient. I have zero issue with flow through 3 blocks and 2 rads on a single d5, temps are great.


----------



## szeged

Had a single d5 push through 3 Titan x blocks, cpu glock, 2 ram blocks and 4 360 rads just fine.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Had a single d5 push through 3 Titan x blocks, cpu glock, 2 ram blocks and 4 360 rads just fine.


CPU Glock? 18 or 19? I hope full auto?


----------



## catbuster

Ty all ^ ^ just wanted to double check


----------



## Benjiw

Has anyone got any experience with UV LED lighting at all? I'm really tempted to use UV coolant not too sure on my colour scheme yet. Might just ditch the UV idea for an RGB lighting solution like the NZXT Hue+ I also want to spray an SSD m.2 SM951 matte black but not sure if it would overheat and die?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has anyone got any experience with UV LED lighting at all? I'm really tempted to use UV coolant not too sure on my colour scheme yet. Might just ditch the UV idea for an RGB lighting solution like the NZXT Hue+ I also want to spray an SSD m.2 SM951 matte black but not sure if it would overheat and die?


I found that my deepcool rgb (set to blue) actually reacts quite well with my mayhems uv green x-1. I had some uv cathode tubes installed and took them out since the LEDs did all the lighting. I've also got uv blue in the loop and it doesn't react as well however


----------



## rathborne

I have one of those kits too and found that the purple colour had some quasi-UV effects on the old-school pastel coloured Gigbayte motherboard but had no effect on the XSPC UV clear coolant.

Got a UV LED light bar on their way which I'm keen to get installed







. The white LED light bar should also replace the white NZXT LED kit that I've got installed.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Has anyone tried these QD's?

Alphacool Eiszapfen quick release connector kit G1/4 inner thread - Chrome

http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/fittings/quick-release-fittings/19527/alphacool-eiszapfen-schnellverschlusskupplungsset-g1/4-ig-chrome


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> CPU Glock? 18 or 19? I hope full auto?


3 19s with the 33rd mags


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papa Emeritus*
> 
> Has anyone tried these QD's?
> 
> Alphacool Eiszapfen quick release connector kit G1/4 inner thread - Chrome
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/fittings/quick-release-fittings/19527/alphacool-eiszapfen-schnellverschlusskupplungsset-g1/4-ig-chrome


Second this, wanted the ones with attached bulk heads look great for external rads.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> 30l case, 4790k + gtx980, one 2x120 radiator:
> 1st rev without gpu block: https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/SilverstoneKL06LC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking build! It's hard to go wrong with the classic black and chrome look... good choice. What size and brand of tubing did you use?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Decided to downsize my rig--hoping for some advice on a mATX case.


CaseLabs Mercury S5 or S8 are my two choices.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> *The EK and Barrow look pretty close to each other.*


^ This ^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> My new EK Supremacy Evo full nickel block while waiting for RMA for Bitspower blocks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The clean tube routing and overall design is great! If I may, one idea may to paint the radiators for a better view through the window. That being said, I am far from an expert on bling.

All caught up!


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice looking build! It's hard to go wrong with the classic black and chrome look... good choice. What size and brand of tubing did you use?
> CaseLabs Mercury S5 or S8 are my two choices.
> ^ This ^
> [/SPOILER]
> The clean tube routing and overall design is great! If I may, one idea may to paint the radiators for a better view through the window. That being said, I am far from an expert on bling.
> 
> All caught up!


It's called masterkleer 8/10mm. Thin but works just fine.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> I'm using EK-Ekoolant Blood Red all the while.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> I'm using EK-Ekoolant Blood Red all the while.


I used the same fluid for almost 14 months with no change and periods where I didn't even turn the PC on... All ek copper blocks and never had any growth or corrosion issues. Just for reference


----------



## Trestles126

I have a single d5 ek res combo going thru the following

2 ek 780 blocks to 360 rad to mosfet asus block to Cpu block to ram block to 240 rad to aquaero mp400 flow meter to another 240 rad and then finally thru a aquero filter... Never a problem I just added flow sensor and will get flow readings soon


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> What pump would u pick to push through 2x titan blocks, 1 x cpu block and 2x ek xe 480? Would single D5 would be enough? Or maybe DDC?[/quot


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Ive had several explanations and seem unable to follow directions xD
> 
> ill keep at it but Im still offering to pay anybody whos in CA to install the tubes and leak check it for me


Use silicon grease to wet those o-rings. It will make easier. The double 90 degrees bitspower is the worse fitting I ever had to insert the tubes on. There is simply something different on it from the normal enhance multi-link fitting or even the 90 degrees multi-link which are quite easy to use. It is quite normal to make small dents on the internal o-rings of those dual 90-Degree Multi-Link Adapter. Keep trying with silicon grease and keep it calm.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Getting tubes in lol. im just sanding away trying to get it to fit but eventually im going to sand too much cos im not really sure what im doing.


What I did was use what's on the first page for measurements of how far it goes into the fitting. I did alittle sanding and deburring. But what made it easy to fit in was using dish soap and water on a q tip to wet the o rings and it slid right in easily


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has anyone got any experience with UV LED lighting at all? I'm really tempted to use UV coolant not too sure on my colour scheme yet. Might just ditch the UV idea for an RGB lighting solution like the NZXT Hue+ I also want to spray an SSD m.2 SM951 matte black but not sure if it would overheat and die?


Dark side uv LEDs work the best from my experience. Sorry for the double post


----------



## gree

Are there any mini fittings? Noticed its kind of hard to fit stuff to the back of my rad


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Are there any mini fittings? Noticed its kind of hard to fit stuff to the back of my rad


It's possible you could try using 35, or 45 degree fitting. I used a bitspower 35 degree fitting for my rig when I ran into something like this.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Are there any mini fittings? Noticed its kind of hard to fit stuff to the back of my rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


a c47 might line up for a straight run there. If not you will need some sort of angle adapter like 2 x 45 or a snake rotary.


----------



## gree

Could i replace the c47 with this

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dw30r-g1-4-deluxe-white-rotary-30-degree-ig1-4-extender.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> a c47 might line up for a straight run there. If not you will need some sort of angle adapter like 2 x 45 or a snake rotary.


That is a c47 lol.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Could i replace the c47 with this
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dw30r-g1-4-deluxe-white-rotary-30-degree-ig1-4-extender.html
> That is a c47 lol.


then either try to fit the tube with it or use some sort of adapter mate. The c47 is one (if not the one) smallest fittings for acrylic tube.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> then either try to fit the tube with it or use some sort of adapter mate. The c47 is one (if not the one) smallest fittings for acrylic tube.


Oh am i better with this

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dw30r-g1-4-deluxe-white-rotary-30-degree-ig1-4-extender.html

Or

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-matte-black-enhance-rotary-30-degree-multi-link-adapter.html#Additional-Information


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has anyone got any experience with UV LED lighting at all? I'm really tempted to use UV coolant not too sure on my colour scheme yet. Might just ditch the UV idea for an RGB lighting solution like the NZXT Hue+ I also want to spray an SSD m.2 SM951 matte black but not sure if it would overheat and die?
> 
> 
> 
> Dark side uv LEDs work the best from my experience. Sorry for the double post
Click to expand...

If deciding between UV and RBG keep in mind that you wont really see the UV effect unless its dark. My UV system sits in the open and there is always a light on or a window open. Only really get to see the UV if I'm watching a movie at night or something. I did build it so that it looks great in daylight too, but not getting to see the glow very often kinda sucks.

Ebay has a lot of good RBG stuff, do some research here though before you buy anything, there are some differences in the LED's used.


----------



## Maxxamillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have a single d5 ek res combo going thru the following
> 
> 2 ek 780 blocks to 360 rad to mosfet asus block to Cpu block to ram block to 240 rad to aquaero mp400 flow meter to another 240 rad and then finally thru a aquero filter... Never a problem I just added flow sensor and will get flow readings soont


What rpm do you normally run your pump at when gaming?


----------



## Jidonsu

Cutting a hole was surprisingly satisfying.

I did it so I have an inlet for air at the very top when I'm draining. I was using the reservoir before, and the top horizontally mounted 360 rad wouldn't drain.


----------



## Aesonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has anyone got any experience with UV LED lighting at all? I'm really tempted to use UV coolant not too sure on my colour scheme yet. Might just ditch the UV idea for an RGB lighting solution like the NZXT Hue+ I also want to spray an SSD m.2 SM951 matte black but not sure if it would overheat and die?


I got myself a Phobya UV LED light strip for my build. It looks great on my UV reactive tubing.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Cutting a hole was surprisingly satisfying.
> 
> I did it so I have an inset for air at the very top when I'm draining. I was using the reservoir before, and the top horizontally mounted 360 rad wouldn't drain.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting. Any device you use or you just blow with your mouth? Or you didn't need to do anything?


----------



## Trestles126

My friend that does all my acrlic work watched my house and dog while away on our trip and I came back to this unexpected suprise. Not exactly what I had in mind but I actually like it. Left me my original blank for a spare.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Interesting. Any device you use or you just blow with your mouth? Or you didn't need to do anything?


The top radiator, CPU block, and part of the GPU block really struggled to drain because there was no easy way for air to replace the space that would be created if the liquid left. My reservoir drained just fine since I can open one of the ports on the top cap. With this port, if I open it, air will come in while gravity just pulls the liquid out of the loop while I drain. When I was installing it, I had to turn the case a few times sideways to move some air into the portion loop where I had to cut make the install.

I bet could pump or blow air into this port if I want to completely remove the liquid even from the front rad, which has an inlet and outlet at the top, but the original intention was just to let air in while gravity draining.

With that said, I think I'm done messing with my loop for now.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> My friend that does all my acrlic work watched my house and dog while away on our trip and I came back to this unexpected suprise. Not exactly what I had in mind but I actually like it. Left me my original blank for a spare.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build, love bioshock, I have the chains on my wrists and the phrase "A man chooses, A slave obeys." respectively on each wrist. Will never forget that scene as it hit me hard playing the game for the first time.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> The top radiator, CPU block, and part of the GPU block really struggled to drain because there was no easy way for air to replace the space that would be created if the liquid left. My reservoir drained just fine since I can open one of the ports on the top cap. With this port, if I open it, air will come in while gravity just pulls the liquid out of the loop while I drain. When I was installing it, I had to turn the case a few times sideways to move some air into the portion loop where I had to cut make the install.
> 
> I bet could pump or blow air into this port if I want to completely remove the liquid even from the front rad, which has an inlet and outlet at the top, but the original intention was just to let air in while gravity draining.
> 
> With that said, I think I'm done messing with my loop for now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice clean build, the lighting looks spot on as well







. I see you have some LSR305's beside it







.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Fractal Design Arc Mini


Also had caselabs s5 suggested.

I really need to keep the width at or below 9"

The fractal case i think has the most features of any case that meets my requested basic criterea. It would need some modding because the window is small and very dark.

Also nearly pulled the trigger on a phanteks pro m acryllic. Looks sweet but then you start looking at all the limitatioms (bottom chamber cover kills it) its a no go.

Nova would be my first choice... except its mitx. I have the matx board so its a no go. If they could just make the nova slightly ever so slightly larger for mATX with one single flex bay slot.... oh i i would be so happy. Id probably buy a merlin sm5 if they still made them.

The mini r2 is the right choice on paper... but it just doesnt give me that wow effect i want.

Evolve is really close if you remove the bottom chamber cover thing, open up some more ventilation and get rid of that awful radiator mount phanteks is using.

Was strongly considering Project mATX but its not entirely practical for me as i see no way to conveniently dust filter it without ruining the aesthetic.

No idea what to do.


----------



## BWAS1000

Took a look at an older thread, so I'll ask for some updated info.
Who here uses Mayhems Dyes? Also, if I want colour, is is better to go with their X1 concentrate or the UV dyes?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Res is tapped and everything has been squared up before tackling the main windowed panel and the acrylic...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res is tapped and everything has been squared up before tackling the main windowed panel and the acrylic...


Looking sharp B.

Heads up, you got a mention in TTL's Office workspace vlog.









Even got first billing over snef who also was mentioned.







lol

Granted it was March and you may already know of it but I saw it last night on my Telly since I was catching up on scrips and thought...







when you were metioned.



Spoiler: Click for a watch!




















~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res is tapped and everything has been squared up before tackling the main windowed panel and the acrylic...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any advice on tapping a 1/4 thread into some acrylic? Want to mod my Res top to allow for a fill port on my Define S with my Primochill CTR II res.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Any advice on tapping a 1/4 thread into some acrylic? Want to mod my Res top to allow for a fill port on my Define S with my Primochill CTR II res.


Pilot drill then drill to size. Use a tapping fluid and go half turn in-quarter turn out. This keeps the threading clear and stops it being eaten.....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Would anybody in Southern California be interested in completing my build for me inexchange for money?
> 
> I have everything, just installing my tubes in driving me coocoo.


Sent you a pm (im in San Diego btw). I know how you feel as i went through this as well. I might be able to help


----------



## ocdream

nice m8!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pilot drill then drill to size. Use a tapping fluid and go half turn in-quarter turn out. This keeps the threading clear and stops it being eaten.....


Will the acrylic be ok with this type of stress? Here is what I'm working with.


----------



## wermad

You need 11.8mm bit and bspp 1/4 tap. I got my set from mcmastercarr.com.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pilot drill then drill to size. Use a tapping fluid and go half turn in-quarter turn out. This keeps the threading clear and stops it being eaten.....
> 
> 
> 
> Will the acrylic be ok with this type of stress? Here is what I'm working with.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You need 11.8mm bit and bspp 1/4 tap. I got my set from mcmastercarr.com.


That's the right bit size and tap, but be sure to measure closely to see if you have enough clearance for another hole with one already in the center . . .

I find that my bit from McMaster does not like following a pilot hole, I can make a small starting dimple with a smaller bit, about a 1/4" or so, but only the first 0.030" of the point or so . . . then drill the hole with the main bit.

Be sure you have the underside of the hole backed up solid on a piece of wood, or it will chip out big time when the drill bit comes thru. . . . You may have to drill from the underside out

Once you add the outer diameter of a fitting or cap in the center hole, and then the diameter of a fitting next to it, the hole centers have to be farther apart than you'd initially think, and it may put you out very close to the edge.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

On another note, . . . . .

Working on a new Core X9 Snow Edition build;

Going to do something a little different this time . . .

Dual loops, a single 420 rad, with bifurcated reservoir functions. . .

The CPU loop and GPU loop pumps both feed from the lower res, and then each loop returns to one end of the top res, which goes to the rad in the lower compartment, which then goes back up to the lower res.





Darlene


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's the right bit size and tap, but be sure to measure closely to see if you have enough clearance for another hole with one already in the center . . .
> 
> I find that my bit from McMaster does not like following a pilot hole, I can make a small starting dimple with a smaller bit, about a 1/4" or so, but only the first 0.030" of the point or so . . . then drill the hole with the main bit.
> 
> Be sure you have the underside of the hole backed up solid on a piece of wood, or it will chip out big time when the drill bit comes thru. . . . You may have to drill from the underside out
> 
> Once you add the outer diameter of a fitting or cap in the center hole, and then the diameter of a fitting next to it, the hole centers have to be farther apart than you'd initially think, and it may put you out very close to the edge.
> 
> Darlene


Good points made, I initially planned on adding 2 more holes to the back where the mount is meaning I'll have more space for the tops of the plugs. I'll see yet, I could just order a collar and a 4 hole top and not bother. I didn't see them on the site when I made my order, here in the UK the shops I use that have the clear acrylic parts I wanted cost £94 delivered but direct from Primochill themselves it cost me £63 plus import will be £70 give or take a few GBP. I'll probably make my own anti vortex tube by using a die on some 13mm tube.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Are there any mini fittings? Noticed its kind of hard to fit stuff to the back of my rad
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was thinking since the back isnt visible maybe it would be cheaper to just use a soft tube there.

Like this guy did



What would i need? Is it safe to mix rigid and soft in a loop?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> I was thinking since the back isnt visible maybe it would be cheaper to just use a soft tube there.
> 
> Like this guy did
> *snip*
> What would i need? Is it safe to mix rigid and soft in a loop?


Stick w/ Primochill Advance LRT soft tube. No harm with acrylic since a lot of components are also made from the same stuff. Like your res


----------



## DarthBaggins

I used Advanced LRT in my pedestal just to keep things simple to work on with the rads and my AquaComputer PA 2Ultra being down in there. But I did make an acrylic run that does go from the out on my mono-block, all the way down the rear of the back half of the main case in the M8.


----------



## Silbane

i7 6700K OC to 4.4 ghz. The first watercooled PC I've ever built.

Needless to say, I love it!!!


----------



## Vesimas

Flushed the Alphacool radiators with hot tap water, 3x times vinegar (10%) + distilled water, again 2x times hot tap water and in the end two flush of distilled water


----------



## khemist

Going to give hard tubing a go at last, went with the Bitspower nickel plated brass tubing and got a load of Nanoxia coolforce 45's and 90's, they fit perfect and are priced decent.


----------



## Maleton3

Hey there guys, so I just started building my first ever water-cooling loop! I am doing it in an NZXT S340, with a 280 Rad and an 120 Rad (both Hardware Labs GTS with Vardar fans on the 280 and stock NZXT fan on the 120), With a CPU and GPU Block (All from EK) (980 Ti Classified and 6600K) I have all the parts, but for my tubing I have 16 feet of acrylic tubing (2 packs of 4 tubes of 2 foot tubing, so 8 feet per package, x2 = 16 feet) Will this be enough for the system? I have never done this before so I suspect I won't bend it perfectly every time...I just don't want to run out of tubing though! Thanks Guys!


----------



## gree

Finally found a place haha the microcenter about an hour away says theyll do it. But it would take them 3 days, first come fist server, and will cost $130.

So thats 2x one hour drives there and 2x back xD hope if i can do its worth it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> Hey there guys, so I just started building my first ever water-cooling loop! I am doing it in an NZXT S340, with a 280 Rad and an 120 Rad (both Hardware Labs GTS with Vardar fans on the 280 and stock NZXT fan on the 120), With a CPU and GPU Block (All from EK) (980 Ti Classified and 6600K) I have all the parts, but for my tubing I have 16 feet of acrylic tubing (2 packs of 4 tubes of 2 foot tubing, so 8 feet per package, x2 = *16 feet)* Will this be enough for the system? I have never done this before so I suspect I won't bend it perfectly every time...I just don't want to run out of tubing though! Thanks Guys!












That's a lot of acrylic tubing. I am going to assume you will have some left over.

TCO


----------



## Maleton3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a lot of acrylic tubing. I am going to assume you will have some left over.
> 
> TCO


Well I hope so! Its just I've never done this before and its the tube is in 2 feet lengths (So, 8 tubes) But I don't know how much ill go through practicing! Actually, regarding that, whats the best way to make sure you don't have the tube too cold or too hot when you bend? And I am a bit worried about the measurement, but..I can figure that out! Any tips for my first loop? (and Acrylic too?)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> Well I hope so! Its just I've never done this before and its the tube is in 2 feet lengths (So, 8 tubes) But I don't know how much ill go through practicing! Actually, regarding that, whats the best way to make sure you don't have the tube too cold or too hot when you bend? And I am a bit worried about the measurement, but..I can figure that out! Any tips for my first loop? (and Acrylic too?)


Really depends on what kind of "bends" You are attempting. I like to stick to 90degree bends that way you can just make a perfect 90degree to suit the area, then trim the ends of the bend to fit the length of what you are trying to connect. There are far more experienced benders in here, I am quite the rookie when it comes to that. Though I have gotten lucky on occasion. I tend to dislike measuring a bend I am going to make and more or less eyeball it.

I am Irish. So luck has been on my side for the most part.









TCO


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Going to give hard tubing a go at last, went with the Bitspower nickel plated brass tubing and got a load of Nanoxia coolforce 45's and 90's, they fit perfect and are priced decent.


Very Nice, I want to see the finished product.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> Well I hope so! Its just I've never done this before and its the tube is in 2 feet lengths (So, 8 tubes) But I don't know how much ill go through practicing! Actually, regarding that, whats the best way to make sure you don't have the tube too cold or too hot when you bend? And I am a bit worried about the measurement, but..I can figure that out! Any tips for my first loop? (and Acrylic too?)


http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101


----------



## Domler

Oh boy am I excited!!! It's finally here. Sma8 two tone. I met this dude about two months ago that's pretty heavy into pc modding. But he has never personally seen a caselabs. Being the nice guy I am, being my second, I am going to let him open it up and we are going to assemble it together. For the fellow owners out there, you have to admit, the first time is an experience. All the questions get answered. And you know the answers. I guess he wants to do it live on twitch. I said I don't care, but I'm not waiting two weeks to do it. So the plan is for tomarrow. I'm getting pretty pumped to open this bad boy up, and see the reaction on his face. I think we all said the same thing the first time!!!


----------



## DR4G00N

Dang, looks like I found out the hard way why you should only use distilled water and also why you should always clean out used waterblocks.









Started my system up today to find out that the pump had died (DC-LT) so I tore down my loop and what I found was not exactly pretty. I was using reverse osmosis treated water with ethylene glycol additive btw.


Spoiler: CPU Block











Spoiler: GPU Block








It looks like there's some kind of build up of calcium or something in the cpu block and some green goop in the gpu block, the previous owner was probably running some sort of green colored coolant that built up in the fins.
This would explain why my temps were slowly getting higher over time.

The loop has only been running for just over a month. I was planning on upgrading Z170 or X99 soon and getting a D5 pump as well so I would've had to tear it down anyway. I don't mind running on air in the meantime.


----------



## emsj86

Is there anyway or "tell" to know which gpu will have water blocks for them. Meaning I want to get the new Gtx "1080" on release but of course want to make sure I can get a full cover block for it. So I was wondering if the evga ref. Cards always get blocks made


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is there anyway or "tell" to know which gpu will have water blocks for them. Meaning I want to get the new Gtx "1080" on release but of course want to make sure I can get a full cover block for it. So I was wondering if the evga ref. Cards always get blocks made


Reference will almost always have the various manufacturers do one, but any kind of custom pcb board arguably is a coin toss. I say such because while companies such as EK have done blocks for most of the new custom pcb boards, you tend to have to wait at minimum a few weeks before any non-reference design will see one. Usually 2-3 months before they hit market.

Also, if you want bare copper, reference will be the only real go-to because EK makes all non-reference designs available only with nickel plating, and other companies aren't known for having quite as many sku's as them.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Dang, looks like I found out the hard way why you should only use distilled water and also why you should always clean out used waterblocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started my system up today to find out that the pump had died (DC-LT) so I tore down my loop and what I found was not exactly pretty. I was using reverse osmosis treated water with ethylene glycol additive btw.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: CPU Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: GPU Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like there's some kind of build up of calcium or something in the cpu block and some green goop in the gpu block, the previous owner was probably running some sort of green colored coolant that built up in the fins.
> This would explain why my temps were slowly getting higher over time.
> 
> The loop has only been running for just over a month. I was planning on upgrading Z170 or X99 soon and getting a D5 pump as well so I would've had to tear it down anyway. I don't mind running on air in the meantime.


I feel for you, I've recently run into some trouble myself. Finally got it squared away.

This might help you, it helped me. I'm crystal clear now


----------



## SteezyTN

Can I get some feedback for anyone running 1.274v on a SINGLE TX under water or something similar? I'm thinking about getting rid of my 360mm radiator because it takes up a lot of space in my caselabs SMA8. If I did that, I would be running a 560, 480, and a 240.

When I ran my two TXs under water with all those rads and the 360, my cards didn't break 40c (that was with my 4770k in the loop running 1.315v). I'm wondering if dropping 360 rad will drop temps a lot since I dropped one card as well, or is it possible that dropping the 360 with raise my temps?


----------



## Maleton3

Just wanted to show some pics of my first ever watercooling loop! Just started it, got the first pipe done tonight, it is in an S340 Case so had to Ghetto mod it a bit for the res on top, but I love it! Here ya go!:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Dang, looks like I found out the hard way why you should only use distilled water and also why you should always clean out used waterblocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started my system up today to find out that the pump had died (DC-LT) so I tore down my loop and what I found was not exactly pretty. I was using reverse osmosis treated water with ethylene glycol additive btw.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: CPU Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: GPU Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like there's some kind of build up of calcium or something in the cpu block and some green goop in the gpu block, the previous owner was probably running some sort of green colored coolant that built up in the fins.
> This would explain why my temps were slowly getting higher over time.
> 
> The loop has only been running for just over a month. I was planning on upgrading Z170 or X99 soon and getting a D5 pump as well so I would've had to tear it down anyway. I don't mind running on air in the meantime.


That is plasticizer,not calcium.


----------



## saxovtsmike

I used Destilled water and some additive years back, and ran in the same problems.
The stuff in your coolers looks like washed out softener from the tubing.
That´s the stuff I had in my loop too
I switched over to DP Ultra from Aquacomputer and never had problems again.
I used their stuff in red and blue in different builds, and my Tygon tubing stood clear all the time.
For the last build i switched over to cheaper masterkleer clear tubin, no problems occured.


----------



## sdmf74

I had a brand new mcp50x pump die on me after a few months, it's only D5s for me from now on.


----------



## wiretap

Even D5's aren't safe.. lol. (but they are much better) I just had a D5 die on me after 5 days of use.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That is plasticizer,not calcium.


Yeah, that makes more sense, the tubing still looks like new and the gunk had a very slight green tint to it so it was most likely all from the gpu block which as I mentioned I didn't properly clean before using.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> Just wanted to show some pics of my first ever watercooling loop! Just started it, got the first pipe done tonight, it is in an S340 Case so had to Ghetto mod it a bit for the res on top, but I love it! Here ya go!:


I am in the process of modding my S340 to accommodate my first custom loop as well. I really wanted to give acrylic tubing a go, but just wasn't brave enough. That and I already had purchased some soft tubing fittings once I thought of switching. Hats off to you and good luck!


----------



## Maleton3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I am in the process of modding my S340 to accommodate my first custom loop as well. I really wanted to give acrylic tubing a go, but just wasn't brave enough. That and I already had purchased some soft tubing fittings once I thought of switching. Hats off to you and good luck!


Thank You!! And What are you using rad wise? The case is limited to a 280 in the front and a 120 in the back, though just a heads up, the 120 in the back prevents the side panel from sliding on perfectly! And obviously, if you have a long card there is no chance that the res + D5 will fit...hence why I mounted it onto and drilled a few holes in the top to put tubes through! Regarding the acrylic, I've never even done a loop, no H110, no custom loop with soft tubing, this is my first try ever at any of it, and honestly, the acrylic bending isn't that hard! I would for sure recommend it, it takes some measurements and I recommend a grid/rotary mat (A table mat with lines on it with various angles) Heck, that pipe in there is only the 2nd one I ever tried and it came out nicely! What are you doing to mod your S340? Thanks and Good Lick to yourself!


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> Thank You!! And What are you using rad wise?


I'm using an EK 280 CE and EK 120 PE. Yeah, I ran into those issues already







, so I'm going to be doing a custom acrylic panel instead. I actually have a build log going on here: Nickel At Midnight

I will probably move to hard tubing once I upgrade my graphics card. I'll live vicariously through you for now


----------



## Maleton3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I'm using an EK 280 CE and EK 120 PE. Yeah, I ran into those issues already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so I'm going to be doing a custom acrylic panel instead. I actually have a build log going on here: Nickel At Midnight
> 
> I will probably move to hard tubing once I upgrade my graphics card. I'll live vicariously through you for now


Haha! Good to hear! Nice choices on the Rad, I'm rocking a Hardware Labs GTS 280 and 120. Ill have to check out that build log as I may need to do a custom panel too!! For sure next time I Upgrade I'm getting a bigger case! The S340 Looks great, but Water-cooling support in it is...not great to say the least! Ill probably be posting the next update on my rig when I finish the tubing! (hopefully tonight or tomorrow!)


----------



## DR4G00N

Well, I have a bit of good news, my pump isn't dead it just had so much crud in it that it couldn't turn.








Didn't take a pic of it but in the area circled in red there was what looked like a lot of rust/corrosion mixed with very old oil. I cleaned it up and put a few drops of all purpose machine oil in it, then I threw together a simple loop and gave it some power. It ran nice, good as new pretty much.










I'm still getting a D5 though, I can reuse this one for my overclocking bench system.


----------



## SteezyTN

Will be updating my build log over the course of time. I'm too busy will school, but since I sold one of my cards, I decided to take the loop down. Take and look and subscribe









Caselabs SMA8 Aquity


----------



## alltheGHz

Seems like the internet has mixed opinions on additives in loops

I'm looking into PT nuke in my distilled water loop.

Do I even need anything in the plain loop?

Thoughts?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Seems like the internet has mixed opinions on additives in loops
> 
> I'm looking into PT nuke in my distilled water loop.
> 
> Do I even need anything in the plain loop?
> 
> Thoughts?


I used the clear version of PT nuke and just added it to deionized water, was fine?

Has anyone ever modded a thumb screw into the bottom of their D5 pump for adjusting speed because I have a res that feeds the pump directly and normally I use a screw driver bit to change the speed but lately it's being doing my nut in. I did a quick google search and didn't see anything but was early morning so erm... probably missed it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Seems like the internet has mixed opinions on additives in loops
> 
> I'm looking into PT nuke in my distilled water loop.
> 
> Do I even need anything in the plain loop?
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear version of PT nuke and just added it to deionized water, was fine?
> 
> Has anyone ever modded a thumb screw into the bottom of their D5 pump for adjusting speed because I have a res that feeds the pump directly and normally I use a screw driver bit to change the speed but lately it's being doing my nut in. I did a quick google search and didn't see anything but was early morning so erm... probably missed it.
Click to expand...

You might try popping the back cap of the pump off to be able to get at the red speed adjuster shaft, and put a piece of heatshrink about an inch long over it so the heatshrink sticks out past the end cap by about a half inch or so . . . enough to rotate between your fingers.

You may need a couple layers of shrink, depending on how firm it is, and you may have to slightly enlarge the hole it comes thru, but you'd be able to adjust with using your finger tips easily enough.

The adjuster looks like this, if you haven't had the pump apart before:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump-accessories/d5-vario-pump-replacement-speed-control-knob.html

D.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Seems like the internet has mixed opinions on additives in loops
> 
> I'm looking into PT nuke in my distilled water loop.
> 
> Do I even need anything in the plain loop?
> 
> Thoughts?


I've been running *Liquid Utopia* for the last year in my distilled. You only need 15mL per 1Gal of distilled. I drained it once six months ago, then a month ago cleaned the pump and cpu block. Everything looked good still.

This was before cleaning after a year of use...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You might try popping the back cap of the pump off to be able to get at the red speed adjuster shaft, and put a piece of heatshrink about an inch long over it so the heatshrink sticks out past the end cap by about a half inch or so . . . enough to rotate between your fingers.
> 
> You may need a couple layers of shrink, depending on how firm it is, and you may have to slightly enlarge the hole it comes thru, but you'd be able to adjust with using your finger tips easily enough.
> 
> The adjuster looks like this, if you haven't had the pump apart before:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump-accessories/d5-vario-pump-replacement-speed-control-knob.html
> 
> D.


I was unaware you could get a replacement knob, so it just pops off? I might do the thumb screw mod tomorrow then. I plan on drilling a hole into is and then using some glue like super glue or stronger to create a nice thread effect. There isn't much resistance on the knob so it shouldn't break off etc and if it does then I'll try a stronger method.


----------



## Maleton3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Seems like the internet has mixed opinions on additives in loops
> 
> I'm looking into PT nuke in my distilled water loop.
> 
> Do I even need anything in the plain loop?
> 
> Thoughts?


Hey man, if you are concerned about additives go for a silver coil, acts the same except it is literally just a coil made out of pure silver the water passes by to get rid of bacteria (Via silver nano particles) Thats what I am using! And yes, in the plain loop you will need something otherwise you can get all kinds of buildup! So if concerned about additives, go for the silver coil route! Have a good one man!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> Hey man, if you are concerned about additives go for a silver coil, acts the same except it is literally just a coil made out of pure silver the water passes by to get rid of bacteria (Via silver nano particles) Thats what I am using! And yes, in the plain loop you will need something otherwise you can get all kinds of buildup! So if concerned about additives, go for the silver coil route! Have a good one man!


Just don't mix silver with nickel and it's all gravy.


----------



## Maleton3

Update #2, just finished 2 more pipes! Only 2 more left to go! For a first time loop this is really coming along, especially since its in acrylic! No issues except for a minor cosmetic fold on the lower part of the longest pipe, but considering the fluid will be a very dense white it is unlikely I will even notice so I am leaving it! Overall I am very happy with the case modding I have had to do and how it has turned out so far, especially considering that its in an NZXT S340! Have a good one guys! Will be back tomorrow for the finished product!!!!!!


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> Update #2, just finished 2 more pipes! Only 2 more left to go! For a first time loop this is really coming along, especially since its in acrylic! No issues except for a minor cosmetic fold on the lower part of the longest pipe, but considering the fluid will be a very dense white it is unlikely I will even notice so I am leaving it! Overall I am very happy with the case modding I have had to do and how it has turned out so far, especially considering that its in an NZXT S340! Have a good one guys! Will be back tomorrow for the finished product!!!!!!


Calling no Jynx! (You haven't leak tested yet bro! Shh!)









Looks nice!


----------



## Maleton3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Calling no Jynx! (You haven't leak tested yet bro! Shh!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks nice!


Thanks man! Im hoping leak testing works out well, so far its looking good though!


----------



## alltheGHz

thank you to all who replied to my question. As a follow up, how long is safe for my loop to run (or sit) until bacteria starts to grow? It's not in direct sunlight, the tubing is colored, etc.


----------



## Ironsmack

You guys everheard of touchaqua fittings?

I had the old bitspower website bookmarked and when i load it up - it goes to touch aqua website. It even has the same message on how to order fittings just like bitspower.

http://www.touchaqua.com/index.php?main_page=index

Edit:

Saw some of the pics and it says, "Designed by Bitspower"


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> You guys everheard of touchaqua fittings?
> 
> I had the old bitspower website bookmarked and when i load it up - it goes to touch aqua website. It even has the same message on how to order fittings just like bitspower.
> 
> http://www.touchaqua.com/index.php?main_page=index
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Saw some of the pics and it says, "Designed by Bitspower"


Very weird:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

*sigh*

Here we go again....

Vincent must be trolling to release that,you could easily substitute the text for Designed by EK.....


----------



## VSG

Wow.. Those fittings are pretty much EK too. This is extremely disappointing from Vincent if he indeed has anything to do with this. He can't go all high and mighty about Barrow/Boom etc like he does.


----------



## willemdoom

Who´s Vincent?


----------



## VSG

The guy who runs Bitspower


----------



## Maleton3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> thank you to all who replied to my question. As a follow up, how long is safe for my loop to run (or sit) until bacteria starts to grow? It's not in direct sunlight, the tubing is colored, etc.


Well, Bacteria is in everything, your pipes, your pump, blocks etc...so really they will be there as soon as you fill it and continue to grow. Especially in water which is a nice breeding ground for algae etc...so I wouldn't really recommend too long...or at all really leaving it without something. Running it will prevent buildup of algae etc (if that were to grow) Direct sunlight could've helped actually, a lot of things are not too happy when UV hits them..colored tubes are fairly irrelevant...maybe a bit harder for sun to get through..


----------



## willemdoom

Ah okay, but this touchaqua is it a sub-company of bitspower or some other weird construction?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Ah okay, but this touchaqua is it a sub-company of bitspower or some other weird construction?


Just got confirmation that this is a new brand of Bitspower. Their value brand, if you will. So it's basically saying that designs from others deserve less money than Bitspower lol. I can't believe the gonads on the guy.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Ah okay, but this touchaqua is it a sub-company of bitspower or some other weird construction?
> 
> 
> 
> Just got confirmation that this is a new brand of Bitspower. Their value brand, if you will. So it's basically saying that designs from others deserve less money than Bitspower lol. I can't believe the gonads on the guy.
Click to expand...

On the other hand, . . . .

If Barrows is just a blatant rip-off of BP, and no one much, at least on here, seems to have a problem with that . . . .as they proudly shop with their wallet while keeping their conscience in check . . . . .

Then why should BP be castigated for essentially doing the same thing . . .

Seems it's becoming the nature of the business, if you want to stay competitive.

We all collectively have the power to send a message and stop all the blatant rip-off BS by not buying those products, . . . But . .

No doubt many will whine about it out loud, declare how disgusting it is, and then go save a few bucks and buy the knock-offs . . . . ensuring the proliferation and success of the knock-off lines, . . to the detriment of the original sources . . . .









Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> On the other hand, . . . .
> 
> If Barrows is just a blatant rip-off of BP, and no one much, at least on here, seems to have a problem with that . . . .as they proudly shop with their wallet while keeping their conscience in check . . . . .
> 
> Then why should BP be castigated for essentially doing the same thing . . .
> 
> Seems it's becoming the nature of the business, if you want to stay competitive.
> 
> We all collectively have the power to send a message and stop all the blatant rip-off BS by not buying those products, . . . But . .
> 
> No doubt many will whine about it out loud, declare how disgusting it is, and then go save a few bucks and buy the knock-offs . . . . ensuring the proliferation and success of the knock-off lines, . . to the detriment of the original sources . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


You have full on Barrow white hats in this thread,no secret purchasers here.....

Watercooling has always had this going on but now it seems to be all personal.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> On the other hand, . . . .
> 
> If Barrows is just a blatant rip-off of BP, and no one much, at least on here, seems to have a problem with that . . . .as they proudly shop with their wallet while keeping their conscience in check . . . . .
> 
> Then why should BP be castigated for essentially doing the same thing . . .
> 
> Seems it's becoming the nature of the business, if you want to stay competitive.
> 
> We all collectively have the power to send a message and stop all the blatant rip-off BS by not buying those products, . . . But . .
> 
> No doubt many will whine about it out loud, declare how disgusting it is, and then go save a few bucks and buy the knock-offs . . . . ensuring the proliferation and success of the knock-off lines, . . to the detriment of the original sources . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> You have full on Barrow white hats in this thread, no secret purchasers here.....
> 
> Watercooling has always had this going on *but now it seems to be all personal*.
Click to expand...

But isn't that the logical expectation once the rip-offs turn out to be successful and the original sources feel hurt and want to strike back in like manner . . . .

Those who embraced the knock-offs are the ones who fueled the fires on this one.

Actually . . a pretty predictable outcome . .

I'm not passing judgment, just stating the facts as they are.

D.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But isn't that the logical expectation once the rip-offs turn out to be successful and the original sources feel hurt and want to strike back in like manner . . . .
> 
> Those who embraced the knock-offs are the ones who fueled the fires on this one.
> 
> Actually . . a pretty predictable outcome . .
> 
> I'm not passing judgment, just stating the facts as they are.
> 
> D.


This isnt the first time Bitspower have done this,they did the same thing to EK a while ago. Those that think BP are a blameless victim are very wrong.

Recognize the GPU block?



Before it was features,now its trade dress....
I do not condone it but it is an entrenched behavior now...and companies are actively behaving this way,they actively encourage back biting.

Purchase ethically.


----------



## Maleton3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This isnt the first time Bitspower have done this,they did the same thing to EK a while ago. Those that think BP are a blameless victim are very wrong.
> 
> Before it was features,now its trade dress....
> I do not condone it but it is an entrenched behavior now...and companies are actively behaving this way,they actively encourage back biting.
> 
> Purchase ethically.


I don't even understand half of why this people wouldn't purchase ethically, or..in general just purchase the real thing. Often times the "Value" Brand isn't really that much less, and...When it comes to water-cooling I think most people would rather buy nice Fittings and Blocks then have a bunch of "Value Brand" Knockoffs spring a leak and leak all over their Thousand Dollar PC (Hence why I just went as nice as I could for my loop..Bad idea to go cheap on fittings.)


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> I don't even understand half of why this people wouldn't purchase ethically, or..in general just purchase the real thing. Often times the "Value" Brand isn't really that much less, and...When it comes to water-cooling I think most people would rather buy nice Fittings and Blocks then have a bunch of "Value Brand" Knockoffs spring a leak and leak all over their Thousand Dollar PC (Hence why I just went as nice as I could for my loop..Bad idea to go cheap on fittings.)


What exactly is the real thing? I used BP before most of you even did watercooling and now I have barrows the quality is the same. The function is the same. They are not a cheap knock off like you are suggesting. Its like saying Honda is the only real 4 door sedan and Hyudia/kia/toyota is the copy so don't buy that. BP makes great products but imo overpriced.


----------



## catbuster

BP is overpriced







they dont offer anything special for the extra price they charge. So why ppl should buy them? For sea horse logo?







If barrow or any other company offers same quality for 2x cheaper ppl will buy it. Shop smart


----------



## Maleton3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> What exactly is the real thing? I used BP before most of you even did watercooling and now I have barrows the quality is the same. The function is the same. They are not a cheap knock off like you are suggesting. Its like saying Honda is the only real 4 door sedan and Hyudia/kia/toyota is the copy so don't buy that. BP makes great products but imo overpriced.


You misunderstand, I wasn't trying to say that ALL Value brands etc are worse, but often times they can be, I have no doubt Barrow may be cheaper, and they may be a great brand, but what I was trying to say is look at whats being used before you go for value, in fact even on mainstream, check what you are getting...People think fittings are less important than other parts in the build, all I was saying is this is a part that isn't great to cheap out on, but if you can find a deal for good quality, go for it. I was more speaking about some shoddy knockoffs I have seen (not Barrow etc). I personally don't use BP because they were very expensive and I personally don't like the look of them, I went for Primochill Revolver SXs


----------



## Laithan

Sounds like there are two issues that are truly separate. There's the quality VS price debate (you get what you pay for, If just as good why spend more) and then the _*ETHICS*_ of a company manufacturing fittings that have clearly been 'ripped off', 'duplicated, 'copied' (whatever you want to call it) from another successful manufacturer (lack of innovation, riding coat tails, bad business).

Consumers are not all just fanboys but also passionate and ethical for a company they believe in and will stand by.


----------



## pc-illiterate

rip offs n copy cat complainers again









btw, speedwell is the only real 4 door sedan. anything that followed was copied...


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just got confirmation that this is a new brand of Bitspower. Their value brand, if you will. So it's basically saying that designs from others deserve less money than Bitspower lol. I can't believe the gonads on the guy.


Vincent is a bad guy?

I only chose Bits fittings this time around since the deluxe white is brighter than every other manufacturer's white, is that a bad reason?









...and only needed 12 fittings, 2 passthoughs small/medium size build.

You said gonads.


----------



## emsj86

so who actually sells the aquatouch fittings any sites?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> thank you to all who replied to my question. As a follow up, how long is safe for my loop to run (or sit) until bacteria starts to grow? It's not in direct sunlight, the tubing is colored, etc.


If you don't use some sort of biocide, then your loop could very quickly grow algae... or not. It's a game of chance at that point. I've seen recommendations to dismantle and clean your loop once a year, which I do. I have also seen people wait 2 to 3 years with no problem. I have also seen some posts about algae growing very quickly, like a few months. I think everyone here would recommend using some kind of biocide over not using anything, just for good practice and prevention.


----------



## IT Diva

Wooooo . . . Hooooooo . . . . .
















Looks like my idea for a dual sided infinity mirror midplate works pretty well. . . . .

You see the infinity effect from looking down from above, and also up from below. . . . lights up the basement pretty well.

Tomorrow I'll try to get the cable management passage in the lower piece of very expensive 2 way mirror glass and make a custom carrier for the LED strip that fits more appropriately than the mock up ones I have in for the test.

I was originally going to put in a full glass top panel, but I got plenty of aluminum channel and ordered some addressable LED strip and more very expensive 2 way mirror glass, and I'm going for a 12" by 20" dual sided infinity mirror in the top.

The interesting aspect of the dual sided infinity mirror is that when it's off, it just looks like tinted glass and all the normal interior lighting is visible from outside, just a bit darker.





Tossed in a rad with some fans to see how well I could see it thru the midplate . . . . will definitely be using clear frame fans with white LEDs to make the most of the effect.



Clear fans with the white LEDs look a lot nicer, and with the sides on, it has a nice little internal reflection thing going on



Darlene


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . Hooooooo . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like my idea for a dual sided infinity mirror midplate works pretty well. . . . .
> 
> You see the infinity effect from looking down from above, and also up from below. . . . lights up the basement pretty well.
> 
> Tomorrow I'll try to get the cable management passage in the lower piece of very expensive 2 way mirror glass and make a custom carrier for the LED strip that fits more appropriately than the mock up ones I have in for the test.
> 
> I was originally going to put in a full glass top panel, but I got plenty of aluminum channel and ordered some addressable LED strip and more very expensive 2 way mirror glass, and I'm going for a 12" by 20" dual sided infinity mirror in the top.
> 
> The interesting aspect of the dual sided infinity mirror is that when it's off, it just looks like tinted glass and all the normal interior lighting is visible from outside, just a bit darker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tossed in a rad with some fans to see how well I could see it thru the midplate . . . . will definitely be using clear frame fans with white LEDs to make the most of the effect.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


OK that's really f-ing cool. I've never seen anything like that in a computer before! It's bigger on the inside! Now you made me feel I must change the name of my main rig (TARDIS) as mine doesn't do the name that sort of Justice :/ (Sorry I really like Doctor Who)


----------



## VSG

Watercool has some Heatkiller glass reservoirs coming up very soon apparently. 100/150/200mm tube lengths.

Darlene: I love it!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . Hooooooo . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like my idea for a dual sided infinity mirror midplate works pretty well. . . . .
> 
> You see the infinity effect from looking down from above, and also up from below. . . . lights up the basement pretty well.


Looking real nice Darlene.

The effect probably works too well - Drop a small screw or washer on the midplate and you will never find the real one to be able to pick it up....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Watercool has some Heatkiller glass reservoirs coming up very soon apparently. 100/150/200mm tube lengths.
> 
> Darlene: I love it!


I'm using dual BP 200mm . . . . need the acrylic ones to do the mods in the end caps for the internal strip lighting . . .



Dual Loops, Dual pumps, Dual reservoirs, single 420 rad . . . . make that a single 480 SR2-MP
















I made up the 10mm thick acrylic base for the pumps/res assembly, and drilled and tapped so everything mounts right on the base, which just sits on the 2 way mirror and indexes on the 4 standoffs.

Will post pics of it assembled tomorrow after I make the cable passage in the lower 2 way mirror.

D.


----------



## Maleton3

Update #3, Just finished the last pipes and filled the loop up! Just leak testing now(none yet!) really happy with how its turned out! Will update again once its all done! Have a good one guys!


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . Hooooooo . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like my idea for a dual sided infinity mirror midplate works pretty well. . . . .
> 
> You see the infinity effect from looking down from above, and also up from below. . . . lights up the basement pretty well.
> 
> Tomorrow I'll try to get the cable management passage in the lower piece of very expensive 2 way mirror glass and make a custom carrier for the LED strip that fits more appropriately than the mock up ones I have in for the test.
> 
> I was originally going to put in a full glass top panel, but I got plenty of aluminum channel and ordered some addressable LED strip and more very expensive 2 way mirror glass, and I'm going for a 12" by 20" dual sided infinity mirror in the top.
> 
> The interesting aspect of the dual sided infinity mirror is that when it's off, it just looks like tinted glass and all the normal interior lighting is visible from outside, just a bit darker.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tossed in a rad with some fans to see how well I could see it thru the midplate . . . . will definitely be using clear frame fans with white LEDs to make the most of the effect.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clear fans with the white LEDs look a lot nicer, and with the sides on, it has a nice little internal reflection thing going on
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I think i need a towel. Damn!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Ah okay, but this touchaqua is it a sub-company of bitspower or some other weird construction?
> 
> 
> 
> Just got confirmation that this is a new brand of Bitspower. Their value brand, if you will. So it's basically saying that designs from others deserve less money than Bitspower lol. I can't believe the gonads on the guy.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> On the other hand, . . . .
> 
> If Barrows is just a blatant rip-off of BP, and no one much, at least on here, seems to have a problem with that . . . .as they proudly shop with their wallet while keeping their conscience in check . . . . .
> 
> Then why should BP be castigated for essentially doing the same thing . . .
> 
> Seems it's becoming the nature of the business, if you want to stay competitive.
> 
> We all collectively have the power to send a message and stop all the blatant rip-off BS by not buying those products, . . . But . .
> 
> No doubt many will whine about it out loud, declare how disgusting it is, and then go save a few bucks and buy the knock-offs . . . . ensuring the proliferation and success of the knock-off lines, . . to the detriment of the original sources . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> I don't even understand half of why this people wouldn't purchase ethically, or..in general just purchase the real thing. Often times the "Value" Brand isn't really that much less, and...When it comes to water-cooling I think most people would rather buy nice Fittings and Blocks then have a bunch of "Value Brand" Knockoffs spring a leak and leak all over their Thousand Dollar PC (Hence why I just went as nice as I could for my loop..Bad idea to go cheap on fittings.)
> 
> 
> 
> What exactly is the real thing? I used BP before most of you even did watercooling and now I have barrows the quality is the same. The function is the same. They are not a cheap knock off like you are suggesting. Its like saying Honda is the only real 4 door sedan and Hyudia/kia/toyota is the copy so don't buy that. BP makes great products but imo overpriced.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> BP is overpriced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they dont offer anything special for the extra price they charge. So why ppl should buy them? For sea horse logo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If barrow or any other company offers same quality for 2x cheaper ppl will buy it. Shop smart


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Sounds like there are two issues that are truly separate. There's the quality VS price debate (you get what you pay for, If just as good why spend more) and then the _*ETHICS*_ of a company manufacturing fittings that have clearly been 'ripped off', 'duplicated, 'copied' (whatever you want to call it) from another successful manufacturer (lack of innovation, riding coat tails, bad business).
> 
> Consumers are not all just fanboys but also passionate and ethical for a company they believe in and will stand by.


wow, didnt even have to wait but a few hours to see proof oif what it said,

@ it diva always innovating, wow, that is awesome !


----------



## iMica

First time doing hard tubing.....three dimensional bends make me want to punch a baby.


----------



## Mega Man

i totally hear you NONE of my builds have "easy" bends :/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> I don't even understand half of why this people wouldn't purchase ethically, or..in general just purchase the real thing. Often times the "Value" Brand isn't really that much less, and...When it comes to water-cooling I think most people would rather buy nice Fittings and Blocks then have a bunch of "Value Brand" Knockoffs spring a leak and leak all over their Thousand Dollar PC (Hence why I just went as nice as I could for my loop..Bad idea to go cheap on fittings.)


Uhm...I have not had a leak:





Spoiler: Warning: Moar Barrow fittings!





















All Barrow fittings, reservoirs, tops, housings, flow indicator, and plugs. Bitspower tube was my choice because of the color and the size.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wooooo . . . Hooooooo . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like my idea for a dual sided infinity mirror midplate works pretty well. . . . .
> 
> You see the infinity effect from looking down from above, and also up from below. . . . lights up the basement pretty well.
> 
> Tomorrow I'll try to get the cable management passage in the lower piece of very expensive 2 way mirror glass and make a custom carrier for the LED strip that fits more appropriately than the mock up ones I have in for the test.
> 
> I was originally going to put in a full glass top panel, but I got plenty of aluminum channel and ordered some addressable LED strip and more very expensive 2 way mirror glass, and I'm going for a 12" by 20" dual sided infinity mirror in the top.
> 
> The interesting aspect of the dual sided infinity mirror is that when it's off, it just looks like tinted glass and all the normal interior lighting is visible from outside, just a bit darker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tossed in a rad with some fans to see how well I could see it thru the midplate . . . . will definitely be using clear frame fans with white LEDs to make the most of the effect.
> 
> 
> 
> Clear fans with the white LEDs look a lot nicer, and with the sides on, it has a nice little internal reflection thing going on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Shame they dont make the actual LED strips good to look at. Have you thought about LED channeling or making a enclosure for them? I think the effect would be amazing if you ran channel round the outside edge looking in with the LED inside it.
Something like this.....https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights/led-strip-aluminium-profile/box-section-aluminium-profile-for-led-strip










You would get that lit 'depth' but not the gopping LED strips in the way.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wooooo . . . Hooooooo . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like my idea for a dual sided infinity mirror midplate works pretty well. . . . .
> 
> You see the infinity effect from looking down from above, and also up from below. . . . lights up the basement pretty well.
> 
> Tomorrow I'll try to get the cable management passage in the lower piece of very expensive 2 way mirror glass and make a custom carrier for the LED strip that fits more appropriately than the mock up ones I have in for the test.
> 
> I was originally going to put in a full glass top panel, but I got plenty of aluminum channel and ordered some addressable LED strip and more very expensive 2 way mirror glass, and I'm going for a 12" by 20" dual sided infinity mirror in the top.
> 
> The interesting aspect of the dual sided infinity mirror is that when it's off, it just looks like tinted glass and all the normal interior lighting is visible from outside, just a bit darker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tossed in a rad with some fans to see how well I could see it thru the midplate . . . . will definitely be using clear frame fans with white LEDs to make the most of the effect.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clear fans with the white LEDs look a lot nicer, and with the sides on, it has a nice little internal reflection thing going on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Shame they dont make the actual LED strips good to look at. Have you thought about LED channeling or making a enclosure for them? I think the effect would be amazing if you ran channel round the outside edge looking in with the LED inside it.
> Something like this.....https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights/led-strip-aluminium-profile/box-section-aluminium-profile-for-led-strip
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would get that lit 'depth' but not the gopping LED strips in the way.
Click to expand...

I've tried a number of options using channel to try to hide the LED strip itself, but as soon as you do, it pretty much kills the effect, . .

And then you have the edges of the channel that appear as wide black lines, creating what looks more like a maze than a bright open pool of light.

The best way I've found to have the strip itself less visible and still have good effect, is to run a higher number of LEDs at a lot lower brightness than the in pics, . . . . but for the mock-up, I just had them plugged into a spare Farbwerk and got whatever it was last set for, hence the different colors in different pics.

As the build moves along, I'll be trying different options . . . . . some will surely be keepers . . . while others will just as surely, quickly go to the "what the hell was I thinking bin".

Darlene


----------



## Maleton3

Update #4, The finale: Just finished the leak testing, threw all the covers back on, and its running beautifully, My 980 Ti Classified is at 24 C or Lower, and my i5 6600K at 4.6 Ghz @ 1.36 Volts is at 29 - 30 Celsius. MUCH Better than my hyper 212 evo before! About a 15 C or more Difference!


----------



## Domler

I absolutely love my s8. I decided I wanted a new case so I bought an sma8. Now, I know the measurements, but my God, this thing is massive!!!


----------



## SteezyTN

Lovely black and gunmetal grey two one









I love mine too


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Updated the parvum. EVGA 970 SSC in SLI. Also changed the PSU to EVGA 750P2.






TCO


----------



## _Killswitch_

Got my Two-tone STH10 the other day, here it is next too my 900D lol It's a WIP, going start off air cooler but want too finish with Hard tube watercooled.


----------



## Domler

Met this guy pretty heavy into water and modding, but he never seen a caselabs. Being my second, I thought I would bring the brown box over and bust it out together, as the first time is an experience. When we were done, he wanted to try something. I don't think this is how you build a pc. ?


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Met this guy pretty heavy into water and modding, but he never seen a caselabs. Being my second, I thought I would bring the brown box over and bust it out together, as the first time is an experience. When we were done, he wanted to try something. I don't think this is how you build a pc. ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've tried a number of options using channel to try to hide the LED strip itself, but as soon as you do, it pretty much kills the effect, . .
> 
> And then you have the edges of the channel that appear as wide black lines, creating what looks more like a maze than a bright open pool of light.
> 
> The best way I've found to have the strip itself less visible and still have good effect, is to run a higher number of LEDs at a lot lower brightness than the in pics, . . . . but for the mock-up, I just had them plugged into a spare Farbwerk and got whatever it was last set for, hence the different colors in different pics.
> 
> As the build moves along, I'll be trying different options . . . . . some will surely be keepers . . . while others will just as surely, quickly go to the "what the hell was I thinking bin".
> 
> Darlene


Its certainly an interesting effect.

Today I have been making 180 combs,blatantly ripping off Hexgears quad comb......but whatcha gonna do eh?


----------



## Maleton3

Hey guys, so just a question, just put my loop together (pictures on another page) but Im not sure about my temps, Im running a black ice 280 GTS and a Black Ice 120 GTS Loop goes: Res+Pump -> 280 -> CPU -> 120 -> GPU -> Res. I am running an i5 6600K OC'd at 4.6 Ghz @ 1.345 Volts (goes a bit higher though about 1.35) and a 980 Ti Classified at 1470 - 1490 with no voltage increase. Room temp is about 21 C, Temps I'm seeing are:

CPU: Idle: 24-31 C
CPU: load: High 40's to Mid 50's usually stays somewhere about 52 - 53. Spiked to 66 once but went almost immediately down to 52

GPU: 22-24 Idle
GPU: 40 Load

These looking about right for the amount of rad space I have? (280 + 120)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Met this guy pretty heavy into water and modding, but he never seen a caselabs. Being my second, I thought I would bring the brown box over and bust it out together, as the first time is an experience. When we were done, he wanted to try something. I don't think this is how you build a pc. ?


I have to ask... Does the side panel fit on the SMA8?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Updated the parvum. EVGA 970 SSC in SLI. Also changed the PSU to EVGA 750P2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


How's the performance on the SLI 970's been debating on grabbing a 2nd Strix 970 and block or just selling what I have and seeing how the 1080/1070 turn out


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> How's the performance on the SLI 970's been debating on grabbing a 2nd Strix 970 and block or just selling what I have and seeing how the 1080/1070 turn out


It's my Brothers Pc. I sen't him home this morning at 0200. I worked on it for about 3.5hours. Already had the top card in but had to fit the second block, leak test, install the new PSU and strip out the old one.... He was playing last night at 4k on a 50" tv. I will report back once I know the outcome.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

I managed to make the cable management cutout in the lower 2 way mirror glass, and I took a lot of pics as I went along . . .

Fortunately, and somewhat unusually, No blood was shed during the entire process, which is always a good thing when it's my blood.

Anyway, . . .

Would anyone want a little tutorial thread, so you don't have to make the same mistakes that I did along the way to having successful outcomes, for working with or drilling with glass or mirror?

It's a rather messy process, but it gets what you need done.









Darlene


----------



## VSG

Well, d-uh


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maleton3*
> 
> Hey guys, so just a question, just put my loop together (pictures on another page) but Im not sure about my temps, Im running a black ice 280 GTS and a Black Ice 120 GTS Loop goes: Res+Pump -> 280 -> CPU -> 120 -> GPU -> Res. I am running an i5 6600K OC'd at 4.6 Ghz @ 1.345 Volts (goes a bit higher though about 1.35) and a 980 Ti Classified at 1470 - 1490 with no voltage increase. Room temp is about 21 C, Temps I'm seeing are:
> 
> CPU: Idle: 24-31 C
> CPU: load: High 40's to Mid 50's usually stays somewhere about 52 - 53. Spiked to 66 once but went almost immediately down to 52
> 
> GPU: 22-24 Idle
> GPU: 40 Load
> 
> These looking about right for the amount of rad space I have? (280 + 120)


Your temps are fine for what you have.


----------



## Domler

@WhiteWulfe
Not with the motherboard tray in. ?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've tried a number of options using channel to try to hide the LED strip itself, but as soon as you do, it pretty much kills the effect, . .
> 
> And then you have the edges of the channel that appear as wide black lines, creating what looks more like a maze than a bright open pool of light.
> 
> The best way I've found to have the strip itself less visible and still have good effect, is to run a higher number of LEDs at a lot lower brightness than the in pics, . . . . but for the mock-up, I just had them plugged into a spare Farbwerk and got whatever it was last set for, hence the different colors in different pics.
> 
> As the build moves along, I'll be trying different options . . . . . some will surely be keepers . . . while others will just as surely, quickly go to the "what the hell was I thinking bin".
> 
> Darlene


Fantastic effect D. For some reason remind me of 2001:a space odyssey. I was thinking about a diffuse light that can possibly work. How about 16 mm acrylic tubes bend to the shape you want and made opaque? Then you insert the leds back to back inside (just like you did I think with the leds inside the reservoirs right? The challenge will be to find an easy way to make the tubes opaque without much effort. Sanding down is a possibility but too much work. Some liquid you can submerge the tube and will made then opaque?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @WhiteWulfe
> Not with the motherboard tray in. ?


Kind of.... Epic that you can without the motherboard tray though!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@DarthBaggins

Update from my brother. EVGA 970 SLI SSC

Civ V ultra 4k SLI = 60 fps (Was 45 fps with single 970)

Total War Attilla:

1440p: Single Ultra 40FPs/ SLI Ultra 55-60FPS
@4k in SLI: 35FPS:

Dark SOuls III : 4k SLI ULTRA = 60FPS

ARMA III: 4k ULTRA SLI: 42FPS

KILLING FLOOR 2 : 4k SLI ULTRA: 55-60FPS

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've tried a number of options using channel to try to hide the LED strip itself, but as soon as you do, it pretty much kills the effect, . .
> 
> And then you have the edges of the channel that appear as wide black lines, creating what looks more like a maze than a bright open pool of light.
> 
> The best way I've found to have the strip itself less visible and still have good effect, is to run a higher number of LEDs at a lot lower brightness than the in pics, . . . . but for the mock-up, I just had them plugged into a spare Farbwerk and got whatever it was last set for, hence the different colors in different pics.
> 
> As the build moves along, I'll be trying different options . . . . . some will surely be keepers . . . while others will just as surely, quickly go to the "what the hell was I thinking bin".
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Fantastic effect D. For some reason remind me of 2001:a space odyssey. I was thinking about a diffuse light that can possibly work. How about 16 mm acrylic tubes bend to the shape you want and made opaque? Then you insert the leds back to back inside (just like you did I think with the leds inside the reservoirs right? The challenge will be to find an easy way to make the tubes opaque without much effort. Sanding down is a possibility but too much work. Some liquid you can submerge the tube and will made then opaque?
Click to expand...

I've run LED strip inside white tubing and it has an interesting look, but you're limited to straight runs . . maybe one bend . . .

It might be interesting to try pulling a length of tubing with a double strip, and then seeing if the strip survived the heat of bending the tube into a serpentine, but that could become a costly / time consuming experiment.

Might just stick a straight piece of white tube with strip inside between the mirrors and see what that looks like . . .



D.


----------



## wermad

Bout to say, where's the Tron lighting??? I do remember from the behind the scenes that it was led lighting. Probably with very frosted plastic to give a more unified glow?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Anyone have any experience with a 5 way rotary fitting like this? Every time there's movement and and o-ring I know there's a possibility for a leak so I see this is five times the risk of a normal rotary fitting but just wondering if anyone had any experiences with one and if they were good or bad?


----------



## IT Diva

Weekend Update . . . .

No fancy dancy lighting effects tonight, but a long arduous day in the shop moved the build a little farther along the path to Nirvana . . .

As I posted previously, I made the cable management cutout in the lower 2 way mirror to match the cutout in the upper 2 way mirror.

The Core X9 has virtually no cable management features, so the best bet is to put a trim panel inside the front chassis panel with a passage to run the front panel cabling and the bay mounted controller cabling down between the trim panel and the front chassis panel.

Since I want to be able to assemble and then work on the system without having to unplug every wire in the thing, I need to be able to remove the pump-res assembly and the midplate assembly with the cabling all in place, hence the cutout.



The pumps and reservoirs are assembled on an acrylic panel, as a complete sub-assembly that can be worked on as a module, and then set in place on the mirror/midplate module.





Finally, the front trim panel to hide all the cabling from the front panel switches and USBs, plus all the fan control cabling from the bay mounted controller.



And the plenum between the back of the trim panel and the front chassis panel where the cabling can pass thru to the basement.



A little bit at a time gets it done,

Darlene


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've run LED strip inside white tubing and it has an interesting look, but you're limited to straight runs . . maybe one bend . . .
> 
> It might be interesting to try pulling a length of tubing with a double strip, and then seeing if the strip survived the heat of bending the tube into a serpentine, but that could become a costly / time consuming experiment.
> 
> Might just stick a straight piece of white tube with strip inside between the mirrors and see what that looks like . . .
> 
> D.


What about EL wire? Might be easier to route trough tubing and has uniform lighting all around. Probably not as bright though.


----------



## gree

Which one of these is best to get into a tight space?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dw30r-g1-4-deluxe-white-rotary-30-degree-ig1-4-extender.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-deluxe-white-enhance-rotary-30-degree-multi-link-adapter.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-matte-black-enhance-rotary-30-degree-multi-link-adapter.html#Additional-Information


----------



## alltheGHz

If you really want to you could use a barb fitting


----------



## gree

I have Rigid tubing, so idk if a barb would help


----------



## Radnad

It looks like you already have a fitting on there, so if you take that off it looks like there shouldn't be a problem with a 90. Since your doing rigid it's hard to say without knowing where that tube run is going?


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

If you're running rigid tubing, the 30 might put the outlet in a weird angle if you're trying to run the tube parallel to the back of the motherboard tray. You might need a triple rotary.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-matte-black-triple-rotary-90-degree-g-1-4-male-to-ig-1-4-female-fitting.html


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL*
> 
> If you're running rigid tubing, the 30 might put the outlet in a weird angle if you're trying to run the tube parallel to the back of the motherboard tray. You might need a triple rotary.


Yes id like to run it down/parallel to the mobo. ill try the tripple.

Do you guys know what stores take returns? I've heard PPCs tries to charge a big restocking fee. Id like to buy an extra tripple incase i need it to get to the reservoir


----------



## Dave6531

Making some progress. Still hun5ing to find someone to do custom camouflage paint on side panels and the front.

Also one of the grey colors didn't come out quite right so now I'm debating on A. Painting it same light grey, B. Painting a different but darker shade of grey or C. Painting it back again.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Making some progress. Still hun5ing to find someone to do custom camouflage paint on side panels and the front.
> 
> Also one of the grey colors didn't come out quite right so now I'm debating on A. Painting it same light grey, B. Painting a different but darker shade of grey or C. Painting it back again.


White and grey look incredible! I,am actually thinking of doing that to my all white rig. I don't know if there's any good way to get grey pastel coolant out of pastel white, I'd like it to be real grey, not dirty white.
I guess the one wrong grey you are talking about is the front wall?? I'd keep it all in the same shade of grey(the one on mobo's armour looks perfect).
What case is that?


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> White and grey look incredible! I,am actually thinking of doing that to my all white rig. I don't know if there's any good way to get grey pastel coolant out of pastel white, I'd like it to be real grey, not dirty white.
> I guess the one wrong grey you are talking about is the front wall?? I'd keep it all in the same shade of grey(the one on mobo's armour looks perfect).
> What case is that?


Thanks yeah grey coolant always looks good. I'm going with mayhem so x1 blood red coolant with some clear so not so dark. It's the nzxt s340 molded of course.


----------



## hidethecookies

I'm sure quite a few of you guys have installed a number of GPU water blocks so it's a good place to ask. On the last two blocks I've installed the PCB always gets a slight bow in it. The Aquacomputer block on my 780 did it by the vrms. The Bitspower on my 290x Lightning is doing it by the vram. The 780 was used got it cheap so I just ran with it but the Lightning is a bit expensive so I want to get your opinions. it's kinda hard to see in the pic.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> I'm sure quite a few of you guys have installed a number of GPU water blocks so it's a good place to ask. On the last two blocks I've installed the PCB always gets a slight bow in it. The Aquacomputer block on my 780 did it by the vrms. The Bitspower on my 290x Lightning is doing it by the vram. The 780 was used got it cheap so I just ran with it but the Lightning is a bit expensive so I want to get your opinions. it's kinda hard to see in the pic.


Thats always going to happen, these blocks are very heavy for the cards, specifically with water flowing.

If you're worried, the best you can do is get a backplate (Which I think you have) or find a case that mounts the GPU vertically like some Caselabs etc


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> I'm sure quite a few of you guys have installed a number of GPU water blocks so it's a good place to ask. On the last two blocks I've installed the PCB always gets a slight bow in it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The Aquacomputer block on my 780 did it by the vrms. The Bitspower on my 290x Lightning is doing it by the vram. The 780 was used got it cheap so I just ran with it but the Lightning is a bit expensive so I want to get your opinions.
> 
> 
> it's kinda hard to see in the pic.


I mean when you slap a metal block on a card, sometimes it happens.







Long as you don't crack the pcb you should be all good to go.

I like the backplate idea @PedroC1999.

TCO


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I mean when you slap a metal block on a card, sometimes it happens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long as you don't crack the pcb you should be all good to go.
> 
> I like the backplate idea @PedroC1999.
> 
> TCO


I have the stock backplate buts kinda just for looks. It's thin compared to EK backplates.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> I have the stock backplate buts kinda just for looks. It's thin compared to *EK backplates*.


I see. I was referring to real backplates by EK.

TCO


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> I'm sure quite a few of you guys have installed a number of GPU water blocks so it's a good place to ask. On the last two blocks I've installed the PCB always gets a slight bow in it. The Aquacomputer block on my 780 did it by the vrms. The Bitspower on my 290x Lightning is doing it by the vram. The 780 was used got it cheap so I just ran with it but the Lightning is a bit expensive so I want to get your opinions. it's kinda hard to see in the pic.


You can also make sure you tighten the block screws in an alternating pattern little by little to ensure it is not going to bind anywhere. This can happen if over-tightened also.


----------



## Domler

I must say. I'm a little disappointed in the io shield of the evga x99 classifield. 
Honestly. For a flagship board, I was a Lil ticked. Almost returned it. And then I decided to paint it. 
Now I got the painters bug. So let's void some warranties. ? I would love some advice on color schemes on the board. The case is an sma8 two tone. Gunmetal exterior. Black flex Bay, front io, and interior. Dual loop, black fittings, black components, and green fluid, still not set on pastel, dye, uv, Aurora. Fans are noctuas, so there black.
Wonderingonna if I should blackout the board, caps,the e on the chipset, and the mosfit. Or should I touch up the caps and the mosfit in (?) The board is tested and working. 
I know how to paint, and the risks.
Any advice on the color choses is greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## VSG

That's the new "in" thing apparently. High end boards from Asus have a nickel glossy finish I/O shield too, such as the RVE.


----------



## wermad

Mine lights up









Quote:


>


I didn't realize it lit until I saw the little cable that plugs into the mb.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine lights up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize it lit until I saw the little cable that plugs into the mb.


That's right up there with RGB headsets in terms of lighting functionality


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine lights up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize it lit until I saw the little cable that plugs into the mb.
Click to expand...

Just to take your mind forget that it's a Gigabyte board.










Spoiler: Warning: Click!



J/K







Although am not a fan of their UEFI screen. lol











~Ceadder


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's right up there with RGB headsets in terms of functionality


it would keep me from using my phone's flashlight everytime I've got to plug something in
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> I must say. I'm a little disappointed in the io shield of the evga x99 classifield.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly. For a flagship board, I was a Lil ticked. Almost returned it.


that is a shame, My z97 classified has a nice black plastic lined one with padding on the mobo side of it.

I'd go with pastel over Aurora, I'm about to switch once I have to break down my loops due to Aurora... again...









I'd definitely get a nice clean (coolant matching) paint job on that "e". It looks like it is just begging for it. I don't think that I would black out the caps though, I think they're kinda sexy


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's right up there with RGB headsets in terms of lighting functionality


I got my Chroma Deathstalker just about a month ago. Now I need and rgb mouse pad







...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just to take your mind forget that it's a Gigabyte board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Click!
> 
> 
> 
> J/K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although am not a fan of their UEFI screen. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Qft...GB has really dropped the ball since after Z87 (and X99) with the bios. Z97 was very troublesome until I got a stable bios. Which I ended up updating for the sake of updating and GB won't let you go back. Still, it was mainly memory and some random cpu instability. This board, G1 Z170 Gaming, as gorgeous as it is, its been a bit tricky and again, its down to the bios. Same main issue, ram/xmp won't play nice. This time, GB won't lock you to a bios version and I can roll back to an older version that runs my system in auto oc quite stable @ 4.5. It won't run xmp and the newest version that is supposed to help doesn't last. The last few weeks did test my patience (after the Fanboy Comp) and i was ready to toss in the towel and get another RVE. I settled on a stable oc and leave my ram at stock 2133mhz for now. The board is too gorgeous to sell and I'm really happy with the audio after tweaking and removing some 3rd party nuisance apps.

I'll send you pm later tonight (doing some molding on stairs







) about some hardware


----------



## VSG

New PPCs discount codes:
Quote:


> The sun is shining a little brighter... The world seems a little newer...
> Happy Springtime folks!
> 
> We wish to offer you these Spring Season Coupon Codes below:
> 
> Spend $50 get 8% off: "SPRING16-8"
> Spend $250 get 9% off: "SPRING16-9"
> Spend $500 get 10% off: "SPRING16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from April 19th through April 25th 2016. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New PPCs discount codes:


Sweet







. Thinking of getting some Ti Amp! Extreme's and I may get some BP blocks. Or just get some reference blocks for reference cards. Do you know if these work with Scratch/dent discounts?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thinking of getting some Ti Amp! Extreme's and I may get some BP blocks. Or just get some reference blocks for reference cards. Do you know if these work with Scratch/dent discounts?


I don't believe so, last time I tried anyway. Those Amp! Extreme's have a sketchy RMA record fyi. Might want to steer clear of them.


----------



## wermad

I can't find any Lightnings for sale unless I"m willing to drop $1k for each. I don't wanna bother with the LE's tbh. Hmmm....I had great experiences with Zotac and when i did have to rma, it was very quick and prompt. So these models have been bad? Might just get reference. I'm tired of the boring EK "clean" look, so i might go w/ reference Koolance (i have a triple bridge already).


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can't find any Lightnings for sale unless I"m willing to drop $1k for each. I don't wanna bother with the LE's tbh. Hmmm....I had great experiences with Zotac and when i did have to rma, it was very quick and prompt. So these models have been bad? Might just get reference. I'm tired of the boring EK "clean" look, so i might go w/ reference Koolance (i have a triple bridge already).


You will definitely see more Maxwell GPUs on sale soon, along with water blocks.


----------



## wermad

I know pascal is around the corner. Its still a couple months away? June eta?

I'm seeing my cards appreciating much higher than what I purchased them (semi-new and new) last year. I'm very tempting to sell them and get some Ti's.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can neither confirm nor deny launch of pascal


----------



## ozzy1925

I know i am late but here are the bp vs barrow pictures that i promised


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's right up there with RGB headsets in terms of lighting functionality


Lol ,a post after my own heart.....

RGB.......lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I can neither confirm nor deny launch of pascal


I can,I have one here for a Corsair build.

NDA means that's all you get tho...

Double post too! Bonus points.


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can,I have one here for a Corsair build.
> 
> NDA means that's all you get tho...
> 
> Double post too! Bonus points.


So this might be a stupid question, but if you are under NDA, are you still allowed even to say you have one, as you just did?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> So this might be a stupid question, but if you are under NDA, are you still allowed even to say you have one, as you just did?


Very interesting indeed


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can,I have one here for a Corsair build.
> 
> NDA means that's all you get tho...
> 
> Double post too! Bonus points.


Rep+


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Any advice on the color choses is greatly appreciated. Thanks.


All the red on the board needs to go. I would start with that. Leave the silver part of the Cap. Black and Silver go together. But the red.... no Sir.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> So this might be a stupid question, but if you are under NDA, are you still allowed even to say you have one, as you just did?


I can. No details,pics or confirmation of features.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can,I have one here for a Corsair build.
> 
> NDA means that's all you get tho...
> 
> Double post too! Bonus points.


NDA is the reason why I can neither confirm nor deny lol (Retailer NDA from Nvidia)


----------



## Domler

Thanks for the input guys. ? I know it's easy to start painting everything once the painting bug bites. Needed a Lil help telling myself, "don't over do it"


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> All the red on the board needs to go. I would start with that. Leave the silver part of the Cap. Black and Silver go together. But the red.... no Sir.
> 
> TCO


Respectfully disagree. I think a dull red pastel and red accents on my mb look nice with silver and black cables.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Respectfully disagree. I think a dull red pastel and red accents on my mb look nice with silver and black cables.


I understand, but is there any other red in your build? I stated that because he said main colours were green and black, with Gunmetal Exterior.

TCO


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I understand, but is there any other red in your build? I stated that because he said main colours were green and black, with Gunmetal Exterior.
> 
> TCO










Green Red and black would be like Christmas at night so I retract my above statement. There are red LEDs on the board, other than that it's just an accent color since everything else is purely silver and black (GO SPURS)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Green Red and black would be like Christmas at night so I retract my above statement. There are red LEDs on the board, other than that it's just an accent color since everything else is purely silver and black (GO SPURS)


No Problem, I wouldn't have said my opinion otherwise. The Led's on most boards can be switched off. I think EVGA might have something like that in the BIOS. I use asus boards and I know on the ROG ones you have the option to turn them off.

TCO


----------



## electro2u

The only one that bothers me is the start button. I dont think I can turn that one off


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The only one that bothers me is the start button. I dont think I can turn that one off


No just the Leds

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> *UNLESS it's RoG or EVGA*, all the red on the board needs to go. I would start with that. Leave the silver part of the Cap. Black and Silver go together. But the red.... no Sir.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully disagree. I think a dull red pastel and red accents on my mb look nice with silver and black cables.
Click to expand...

Meh, TCO got redded out after MSi, Gigabyte and various other manus decided to copycat ASUS's RoG schemes.

So I fixed the above for posterity, cause let's face it some boards do look good with Black an Red.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, TCO got redded out after MSi, Gigabyte and various other manus decided to copycat ASUS's RoG schemes.
> 
> So I fixed the above for posterity, cause let's face it some boards do look good with Black an Red.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You "Fixed" it and honestly I wouldn't disagree with what you have changed. Looks Good to me.

When I purchased the ROG Impact for the S3, I wanted to paint it white like I did with the Rampage V, but then realized I was going to use red fluid, soo.... It got a pass for that one.









I had my Brush and white acrylic paint out though, ready, waiting, patiently, for the time to paint a motherboard again.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, TCO got redded out after MSi, Gigabyte and various other manus decided to copycat ASUS's RoG schemes.
> 
> So I fixed the above for posterity, cause let's face it some boards do look good with Black an Red.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You "Fixed" it and honestly I wouldn't disagree with what you have changed. Looks Good to me.
> 
> When I purchased the ROG Impact for the S3, I wanted to paint it white like I did with the Rampage V, but then realized I was going to use red fluid, soo.... It got a pass for that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had my Brush and white acrylic paint out though, ready, waiting, patiently, for the time to paint a motherboard again.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Hey, at least the Red a Black go well together. I came up, back when colors were an afterthought. Brands like BioStar churned out puke green and yellow and orange all on the same board. Even ASUS was guilty of a couple of those failschemes. But back then you didn't have "windowed" panels unless you modded them yourself or got a friend to do it. During that time I avoided windows like the plague.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Domler

Well guys and gals, wish me luck!!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Well guys and gals, wish me luck!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




TCO


----------



## Domler

Lol


----------



## wermad

@Ceadderman who copied who?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, TCO got redded out after MSi, Gigabyte and various other manus decided to copycat ASUS's RoG schemes.
> 
> So I fixed the above for posterity, cause let's face it some boards do look good with Black an Red.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Fyi:

FoxConn Blood Rage X58: January 2009

EVGA X58 Classified: April 2009

Asus Maximus III Formula: December 2009

Asus RIIIE rog red theme: March, 2010

So, Asus didn't invent the "red" theme per-say, but they do market it the best and hence why many followed their success imho. But they weren't the first. I'm sure they're might be another red themed "enthusiast" mb that pre-dates the Blood Rage X58.






edit: if you go back before this gen, Asus' enthusiast boards were white and blue themed (and even copper!).


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Ceadderman who copied who?
> Fyi:
> 
> FoxConn Blood Rage X58: January 2009
> 
> EVGA X58 Classified: April 2009
> 
> Asus Maximus III Formula: December 2009
> 
> Asus RIIIE rog red theme: March, 2010
> 
> So, Asus didn't invent the "red" theme per-say, but they do market it the best and hence why many followed their success imho. But they weren't the first. I'm sure they're might be another red themed "enthusiast" mb that pre-dates the Blood Rage X58.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: if you go back before this gen, Asus' enthusiast boards were white and blue themed (and even copper!).


Haha, I had the top two boards there. I actually still have the Classified and its for sale if anyone is interested!


----------



## wermad

My first Asus board was the Crosshair IV Formula (nasty northbridge temps







), slapped on an EK block. Then I went with a Rampage III Extreme with another EK block. Had a RIVE (with ek blocks), EVGA P67, ASrock X79 Professional, P8P67 WS Revo, Sniper 3 Z77, Sniper 5 Z87, Rampage IV Black Ed., G1 Gaming Wifi BLK Z97, RVE X99, and now G1 Gaming Z170. I love this new board as the colors fit perfectly with my build (even though the bios' can get sketchy):



Had a couple of amd Foxconn boards before the CHIVF and they performed solid with no complaints other then the colors were a bit weird (mid to low end boards). I won't mention the atrocious EVGA Z77 FTW...which should be taken out back w/ a shot-gun tbh







.


----------



## Domler

Round 1 goes to the e. So I really liked the satin black finish in contrast the the matte black heatsink. But the bug bit me. It wasn't perfect, and like an idiot, I said, I can touch it up by hand. It's just a dust size dot. Ahhhhhh. Got a Lil to happy with the paint. It was a 9 out of 10. And then it's a 10' mod.

Now it's decision time. Remove the heatsinks and paint the whole thing, or cover it in vynil. Removed and tried to cover in vynil. No good. Well, maybe it's time to paint the whole thing. Then I remembered Jay two cents saying, I didn't like that the blacks didn't match. Maybe it's me, but I'm calling bs. I think it's wasn't perfect and decided to paint the whole thing. And I said no. I will clean it up and start from scratch. I don't give up that easy. So it's cleaned, masked, and ready for paint......tomarrow.

You may have one this battle e, but I will win the war!!!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


I wanted that R3E board so badly in 2009, rumor has it the NB/SB heat sink was made to look like an ogami folded paper dragon.

But alas, no money in 2009, so no board for me.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's the new "in" thing apparently. High end boards from Asus have a nickel glossy finish I/O shield too, such as the RVE.


yea... i hate it too, and feel ripped off


----------



## DerComissar

I had one of these years ago:

DFI Lanparty.
It wasn't a bad board, aside from the tacky colors, which strangely didn't look too bad to me, at the time.
The supplied Thermalright (not Thermaltake, lol) heatsinks worked quite well.

Now, I prefer all-black boards.


----------



## iBruce

I bet some of you guys ( and D.) have owned at least 20 motherboards,

I've owned 3.

Intel X48 SkullTrail or SkullTrain, I forgot.
ROG M5E
ROG M8E

I keep stuff way too long I guess.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I had one of these years ago:
> 
> DFI Lanparty.


----------



## wermad

I remember a Kiwi girl doing a "viper" green themed build with a dfi board. Anyone remember her username? That thing was a long term wip but she had some nice mods in her build.

Oh, forgot to add I owned a Maximus IV Extreme (aka MIVE P67). For the exception of the RIVE (and I didn't much use the RVE), its probably the best Asus board I've used with the P8P67 WS Revo coming in next. Worst Asus board used: RIVBE, traded it for a RIVE after owning it for a few weeks. Bios sucked big time.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I bet some of you guys ( and D.) have owned at least 20 motherboards,
> 
> I've owned 3.
> 
> Intel X48 SkullTrail or SkullTrain, I forgot.
> ROG M5E
> ROG M8E
> 
> I keep stuff way too long I guess.


I have.
I think that was the SkullTrail, idk.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I had one of these years ago:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFI Lanparty.
Click to expand...

Lol!
So that's where they came up with that color scheme.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I remember a Kiwi girl doing a "viper" green themed build with a dfi board. Anyone remember her username? That thing was a long term wip but she had some nice mods in her build.
> 
> Oh, forgot to add I owned a Maximus IV Extreme (aka MIVE P67). For the exception of the RIVE (and I didn't much use the RVE), its probably the best Asus board I've used with the P8P67 WS Revo coming in next. Worst Asus board used: RIVBE, traded it for a RIVE after owning it for a few weeks. Bios sucked big time.


I believe this is what you're looking for wermad


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Ceadderman who copied who?
> Fyi:
> 
> FoxConn Blood Rage X58: January 2009
> 
> EVGA X58 Classified: April 2009
> 
> Asus Maximus III Formula: December 2009
> 
> Asus RIIIE rog red theme: March, 2010
> 
> So, Asus didn't invent the "red" theme per-say, but they do market it the best and hence why many followed their success imho. But they weren't the first. I'm sure they're might be another red themed "enthusiast" mb that pre-dates the Blood Rage X58.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: if you go back before this gen, Asus' enthusiast boards were white and blue themed (and even copper!).


Ahh I still have three of the four of those old boards. After seeing that, just out of curiosity I fired up my old Rampage Extreme III and lo and behold the things still kickin and works like a champ with my old 980x Bloomfield. I remember when I was debating and it even took me a while t0 move to the 4770k because man all those cores still pretty damn fast. Although of course the itch for new hardware came soon enough.


----------



## iBruce

Was considering mounting the Maximus V Extreme on the wall, maybe under glass with lights, since it has done so much for my work.

Does a hallway filled with glass covered motherboards seem weird at all?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Was considering mounting the Maximus V Extreme on the wall, maybe under glass with lights, since it has done so much for my work.
> 
> Does a hallway filled with glass covered motherboards seem weird at all?


Not at all I both applaud and commend you for the idea sir! We love what we love why not display it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Ceadderman who copied who?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Meh, TCO got redded out after MSi, Gigabyte and various other manus decided to copycat ASUS's RoG schemes.
> 
> So I fixed the above for posterity, cause let's face it some boards do look good with Black an Red.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fyi:
> 
> FoxConn Blood Rage X58: January 2009
> 
> EVGA X58 Classified: April 2009
> 
> Asus Maximus III Formula: December 2009
> 
> Asus RIIIE rog red theme: March, 2010
> 
> So, Asus didn't invent the "red" theme per-say, but they do market it the best and hence why many followed their success imho. But they weren't the first. I'm sure they're might be another red themed "enthusiast" mb that pre-dates the Blood Rage X58.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: if you go back before this gen, Asus' enthusiast boards were white and blue themed (and even copper!).
Click to expand...

I wasn't suggesting ASUS started it first. But thanks for the trip down memory lane.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Was considering mounting the Maximus V Extreme on the wall, maybe under glass with lights, since it has done so much for my work.
> 
> Does a hallway filled with glass covered motherboards seem weird at all?


Actually it doesn't seem weird at all, to me either.
Which has me wondering about myself now, lol.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wasn't suggesting ASUS *started it first.* But thanks for the trip down memory lane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Firstest

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/man-drinking-1944-984x500_zpstsoq6hlm.jpg.html

Medium

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/fathers-day-beer-lg_zpstqebkqct.jpg.html

Bestest

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/maxresdefault_zpsdfbwwol7.jpg.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wasn't suggesting ASUS started it first. But thanks for the trip down memory lane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You get too passionate Ceadder and are quick to assign hate to brands. You can always word things differently to avoid sounding like you're a cheerleader. For example:

"Although Asus was not the first to go with a red/black color scheme on their enthusiast boards, they have done it quite successfully that other brands have now shifted to the same general theme recently. Though each brand will try to make their products more distinct and thus detract from "cookie-cutter" labels. Msi is doing their Gaming and GodLike branding with a different approach (dragons and heatspreaders) and GB has added more white to their boards along with the red/black scheme to the newest platform Z170."

See? Its easy, eloquent, and avoids sounding arrogant when simply bringing up the fact that others are following in Asus' successful path (that they also took a while back).









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I believe this is what you're looking for wermad


Yes, that's her! I remember her now, @spiderm0nkey. I'll catch up with that old build. I remember her from this club and the CM 690 club.


----------



## Ceadderman

^Agreed werm. But can I help ASUS's successful path makes me sound like a cheerleader?







lol

Although I must point out that there are few companies/brands that I "hate". If I hate them, I generally have been bit hard by them so it comes out when I refer to them.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Was considering mounting the Maximus V Extreme on the wall, maybe under glass with lights, since it has done so much for my work.
> 
> Does a hallway filled with glass covered motherboards seem weird at all?


Not at all. TTLogan had something similar put together with all his RoG boards. Contracted through Parvuum no less. So nope not weird at all.

I have an old ASUS AM2 board (M2N SLI Deluxe) hanging on my wall(complete with an Athlon) next to my desk and have a few other boards hanging around waiting for me to retire them to the wall of shame as my wife puts it.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Best board in the last five years, its gotta be the RIVE X79 hands down imho. Damn things were selling cheap last year and now they'r double or triple of what they went a year ago.

Too bad we never got this prototype:



As annoying as that fan was, the heatsinks looked much better then the RIVBE.


----------



## iBruce

I Love Lauren.









.


----------



## wermad

(I'm chained...good luck to the rest of you!)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I Love Lauren.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I may be now too.Truth.









~Ceadder


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I may be now too.Truth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


watch her latest video she's single almost without a home bad breakup and adorable... What's not to love?

Awe I feel for her, want to fly her over here and place her in the guest room, sleep soundly Lauren.









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVi0tZ3dI5E


----------



## FXformat

Who makes an all black board now? Why can't these company make neutral color boards, i swear 99% of mobo have red in it somewhere, what is it with red?


----------



## wermad

Red: passion. The passion of us pc modders/gamers/enthusiast. Great marketing strategy to sell. Its not really profitable to cater to the minority. That's just how any business works to stay alive. Black out your board with some rattlers or vinyl. I can't really think of any stock all "murdered-out" boards tbh.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Who makes an all black board now? Why can't these company make neutral color boards, i swear 99% of mobo have red in it somewhere, what is it with red?


I think the closest is the ROG Maximus Formula VIII with the LED's off, all black and dark grey.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Who makes an all black board now? Why can't these company make neutral color boards, i swear 99% of mobo have red in it somewhere, what is it with red?


One of the reasons I chose the ASUS Formula VIII - Only red is the LED Q-code display....


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I think the closest is the ROG Maximus Formula VIII with the LED's off, all black and dark grey.


Yeah i have the Maximus series board, and i have to turn off the LEDs as they were red...but there are still a few accents of red on the board, and the debug LED is also red...i wish i can turn that to a white/bluish LED...but it isn't so bad, i might rattle out the red stripes on the PCB what do you guys think?


----------



## Costas

No RED - Just a tinge of green...


----------



## FXformat

^^^ Looks great brother...

I'm getting a little weary of the ice white coolant, thinking about going back to clear DI water...but the thought of draining and flushing the loop again makes me want to hurl.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I'm getting a little weary of the ice white coolant, thinking about going back to clear DI water...but the thought of draining and flushing the loop again makes me want to hurl.


IMO the White looks great although as you state clear would look good as well.

I need to drain mine this weekend to fix one of my Aquacomputer pumps (needs new control pcb) but I don't need to flush which would normally be the most time consuming bit.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> No RED - Just a tinge of green...


Sincerely Beautiful.

Brother.

But will that rig make you 6M in the next 2years?

.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Sincerely Beautiful.


Thankyou....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> But will that rig make you 6M in the next 2years?


I wish......


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Thankyou....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish......


The very reason work rigs are so special.

yea, they may not look so nice (like mine) but they deliver the bottom line.

Work rigs deserve to be named.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Best board in the last five years, its gotta be the RIVE X79 hands down imho. Damn things were selling cheap last year and now they'r double or triple of what they went a year ago.
> 
> Too bad we never got this prototype:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As annoying as that fan was, the heatsinks looked much better then the RIVBE.


afaik it was not a prototype, they were made for some benching event, although i could be wrong
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Red: passion. The passion of us pc modders/gamers/enthusiast. Great marketing strategy to sell. Its not really profitable to cater to the minority. That's just how any business works to stay alive. Black out your board with some rattlers or vinyl. I can't really think of any stock all "murdered-out" boards tbh.


RIVBE ! excellent board !


----------



## wermad

-When I saw the final rendition of the BE, it was a let down compared to this incarnation, regardless if it was production or not. Didn't tiny tom get a custom made blue one? or it was painted?

-Dude wants it murdered out, with no trace of any other color. The RIVBE does come close but there's still a few traces of red. Hmmm...I thought you were only amd blood, so no intel in your home?

Anyways, just found out ScarJo is gonna be Major Kusanagi...







....


----------



## Stickeelion

does anyone know what the best way to clean plasticiser out of radiators is? It's gone through my loop, will the hot water and shake method get out well enough?


----------



## unequalteck

CM Master Case 5
Intel i7-4770k
ASUS Maximus VI Extreme
Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB 1866Mhz x2
Samsung Evo 250GB SSD
Mushkin Chrono 256GB SSD
Palit GTX980Ti 6GB GDDR5
ASUS Xonar Essence STX
Corsair AX760 80+ Platinum PSU


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Round 1 goes to the e. So I really liked the satin black finish in contrast the the matte black heatsink. But the bug bit me. It wasn't perfect, and like an idiot, I said, I can touch it up by hand. It's just a dust size dot. Ahhhhhh. Got a Lil to happy with the paint. It was a 9 out of 10. And then it's a 10' mod.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's decision time. Remove the heatsinks and paint the whole thing, or cover it in vynil. Removed and tried to cover in vynil. No good. Well, maybe it's time to paint the whole thing. Then I remembered Jay two cents saying, I didn't like that the blacks didn't match. Maybe it's me, but I'm calling bs. I think it's wasn't perfect and decided to paint the whole thing. And I said no. I will clean it up and start from scratch. I don't give up that easy. So it's cleaned, masked, and ready for paint......tomarrow.
> 
> You may have one this battle e, but I will win the war!!!


I think it came out great!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> -
> 
> Anyways, just found out ScarJo is gonna be Major Kusanagi...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


If she comes around to my house, Il show her a Major.









TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Thanks to B-Neg's Acrylic 101 thread, I decided to dive into hard-line tubing. I have to be honest, the first couple hours of bending was a pain, growing pains and whatnot. Once I got the hang of it and when to start bending it was quite enjoyable. I also decided to black out as much of my MSI SLI Krait edition as I could. Turns out the little white strips on the mobo heatsinks are glued on white metal plates. Upgraded the monitor as well to an Acer X34 Predator.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Thanks to B-Neg's Acrylic 101 thread, I decided to dive into hard-line tubing. I have to be honest, the first couple hours of bending was a pain, growing pains and whatnot. Once I got the hang of it and when to start bending it was quite enjoyable. I also decided to black out as much of my MSI SLI Krait edition as I could. Turns out the little white strips on the mobo heatsinks are glued on white metal plates. Upgraded the monitor as well to an Acer X34 Predator.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good work!

TCO


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> does anyone know what the best way to clean plasticiser out of radiators is? It's gone through my loop, will the hot water and shake method get out well enough?


Get a blitz basic kit (or even just the part two alone) it'll clean that crap right out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> -When I saw the final rendition of the BE, it was a let down compared to this incarnation, regardless if it was production or not. Didn't tiny tom get a custom made blue one? or it was painted?
> 
> -Dude wants it murdered out, with no trace of any other color. The RIVBE does come close but there's still a few traces of red. Hmmm...I thought you were only amd blood, so no intel in your home?
> 
> Anyways, just found out ScarJo is gonna be Major Kusanagi...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


Tom got a custom one directly from Asus, they swapped it all the red for blue... Sadly it was DOA and never got used.


----------



## skypine27

Dopped in 64 GB ram into my setup (3 x rads: 120mm rear 360 mm top 420 mm front)

e-peen pics:

http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0855.jpg.html

http://s82.photobucket.com/user/skypine27/media/DSC_0854.jpg.html


----------



## zzorro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> CM Master Case 5


Wow..








Mooreee picca pls..

Lowyat.net M'sia pro moded


----------



## Domler

Score one for the home team!!!


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Score one for the home team!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Score one for the home team!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Some Carbon Tape might have been a better alternative but that looks sharp.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lookin good,


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Score one for the home team!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Excellent








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Some Carbon Tape might have been a better alternative but that looks sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You stop that right now Ceadder!! Paint is nice, paint is special, paint is everything.

TCO


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Ceadderman who copied who?
> Fyi:
> 
> FoxConn Blood Rage X58: January 2009
> 
> EVGA X58 Classified: April 2009
> 
> Asus Maximus III Formula: December 2009
> 
> Asus RIIIE rog red theme: March, 2010
> 
> So, Asus didn't invent the "red" theme per-say, but they do market it the best and hence why many followed their success imho. But they weren't the first. I'm sure they're might be another red themed "enthusiast" mb that pre-dates the Blood Rage X58.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: if you go back before this gen, Asus' enthusiast boards were white and blue themed (and even copper!).


i must say. EVGA wins though.

i have a P55 Classified 200 thats red&black sitting here. rethink who copied who


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> i must say. EVGA wins though.
> 
> i have a P55 Classified 200 thats red&black sitting here. rethink who copied who


Think you didn't read this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> @Ceadderman who copied who?
> Fyi:
> 
> FoxConn Blood Rage X58: January 2009
> 
> EVGA X58 Classified: April 2009
> 
> Asus Maximus III Formula: December 2009
> 
> Asus RIIIE rog red theme: March, 2010
> 
> So, Asus didn't invent the "red" theme per-say, but they do market it the best and hence why many followed their success imho. But they weren't the first. *I'm sure they're might be another red themed "enthusiast" mb that pre-dates the Blood Rage X58*.
> 
> edit: if you go back before this gen, Asus' enthusiast boards were white and blue themed (and even copper!).


The point was to convey to Ceadderman that Asus' rog lineup was not where the red and black theme for enthusiast boards originated from.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Think you didn't read this:
> The point was to convey to Ceadderman that Asus' rog lineup was not where the red and black theme for enthusiast boards originated from.


true....although i think the last time i booted that little bugger P55 board it restarted itself every 25-30 minutes of usage for no reason.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> true....although i think the last time i booted that little bugger P55 board it restarted itself every 25-30 minutes of usage for no reason.


I see your EVGA P55 Classy 200 and raise you the *Abit* Fatal1ty AA8XE circa 2005









http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/market-survey,972-4.html



The P55 reminds me of my lovely FTW P67. Probably the last good evga board before .... hit the fan (I consider Z68 FTW too).

edit:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tom got a custom one directly from Asus, they swapped it all the red for blue... Sadly it was DOA and never got used.


That sucks







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Score one for the home team!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Turned out great dude


----------



## Deeptek

Well I did something that I never thought I would do. I changed out of my CaseLabs and did a project i've been wanting to do for a while. I got a beat up Silverstone FT02 (a DigitalStorm rebrand) on eBay for $39 and here is how she looks now. Hope you like what I have done.


----------



## Ceadderman

@we're an anyone else on the black and red theme issue...

I never suggested that ASUS was the first. If anything they were first in was in implementation over an entire series of both AMD and Intel enthusiast series boards and that itself was successful enough that both their main competitors decided to adopt "gaming class" Black and Red themes.

Things got out of hand to the point where people got fed up with Black and Red.

But that will only lead to more "adoption policies" and people will get fed up with the latest craze. i.e. Whiteout boards cases peripherals and etc with the upcoming flavors not yet adopted. Newer RoG is going shiny bronze/ orange scheme. I'm a Giants fan so no biggee. I will stop buying RoG when they roll out a Dodger Blue lineup.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Dave6531

Slowly continuing progress.ran out of white sleeving but should have some more Friday or Saturday. The gpu sag though holy cow, I'll pry fashion up some sort of bracket to help support the weight.


----------



## superflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Slowly continuing progress.ran out of white sleeving but should have some more Friday or Saturday. The gpu sag though holy cow, I'll pry fashion up some sort of bracket to help support the weight.


I think you can maybe pull a Puget Systems and cut up some acrylic to make a support brace:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ZZQVK8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=VJE1GG9UMDQO&coliid=I35FWG80VCMF73

Been thinking of doing something like this myself


----------



## Tim Drake

Anybody know any AIOs that could fit the Titan X without having to cut the faceplate?

Idk if they're the right size but there's the H110i GT and 120v so far that are square


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Anybody know any AIOs that could fit the Titan X without having to cut the faceplate?
> 
> Idk if they're the right size but there's the H110i GT and 120v so far that are square


Would evga hybrid kits not fit the requirements? Seems the easiest solution and the kit for the Gtx 980/980Ti and Titan x all work on the card if you can't find a Titan x one specifically.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Well I did something that I never thought I would do. I changed out of my CaseLabs and did a project i've been wanting to do for a while. I got a beat up Silverstone FT02 (a DigitalStorm rebrand) on eBay for $39 and here is how she looks now. Hope you like what I have done.


No dude that looks sweet, it's nice to have a different case once in a while to frenshen up the build. Well done!


----------



## VSG

This is pretty hot:



EK FC block for the Radeon Pro Duo.


----------



## EduardoB

Single slot beauty!! Pretty nice!


----------



## Frestoinc

thanks to OCN that i'm able to complete my first WC build


----------



## SBG1987

Hello everybody. I haven't been an active user since joining. This must change as i'm an avid water cooling enthusiast that already has one build and will be build a second within the coming months.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> No dude that looks sweet, it's nice to have a different case once in a while to frenshen up the build. Well done!


Thanks, sir!


----------



## SteezyTN

I would like some advice if no one minds... I have a 30 degree bitspower fitting and I need to make a 150 degree bend (if I want it straight and bend it to fit the 30 degree fitting, a 150 degree bend is needed, right?). Once that is bent, I would do a 90 degree bend at the top to reach the radiator to the left of it.

Here is a picture of what I'm trying to achieve.



I want the one in the corner to be able to reach the inside port on the radiator. How do I go about getting a 150 degree bend?

I have the monsoon bending kit, but all I've ever done is a 90 degree bend. Can I use this to make a 150 degree bend?



Edit* or I could just remove the fans to make only a single 90 degree bend. I wonder if those fans in push pull really matter. Spent so much on all of them, I'd hate to have to sell them.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I don't know, here's a tube off a previous build, had to re-bend when I added a fan. 180° right into a 90, but this is PETG.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I don't know, here's a tube off a previous build, had to re-bend when I added a fan. 180° right into a 90, but this is PETG.


I'm using PETG as well. If no one can help me, I might just take the fans out so I can do a straight bend. I've never done a 150 degree bend before, only 90z


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

What kind of help are you looking for? I thought you just wanted to know if it was possible, bending it'll be up to your skill as a bender, I reckon.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> What kind of help are you looking for? I thought you just wanted to know if it was possible, bending it'll be up to your skill as a bender, I reckon.


I know it's possible. I was just asking how. How do I get a 150 degree bend with the 180 degree monsoon bending kit.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know it's possible. I was just asking how. How do I get a 150 degree bend with the 180 degree monsoon bending kit.


Im guessing you wouldn't bend it all of the way to 180degrees.

TCO


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

AH, got it.

150° will be this


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> AH, got it.
> 
> 150° will be this


That's what I was thinking. I kind of figured it would be the 150 on the 180 tool, but I didn't know exactly where to bend it. Now that you drew the lines, it makes much more sense. Thank you

+Rep


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

No problem









Looks like we have the same bench top









And to be clear, that's 150° from a straight tube, the angle between the two red lines is acute 30°, but a straight line on a protractor is 180 - 180 so 150° is the difference or reflex angle. If you are now totally confused, use Paint to sketch exactly where the tube is going.

https://www.mathsisfun.com/angles.html


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> No problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like we have the same bench top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And to be clear, that's 150° from a straight tube, the angle between the two red lines is acute 30°, but a straight line on a protractor is 180 - 180 so 150° is the difference or reflex angle. If you are now totally confused, use Paint to sketch exactly where the tube is going.
> 
> https://www.mathsisfun.com/angles.html


Yeah, I'm a little confused lol. This is why I hate math :/ I was just thinking that if I had a 30 degree fitting, I would need a 150 degree bend to make it straight, if that makes sense. Let me use paint reall quick and I'll show what I mean.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im guessing you wouldn't bend it all of the way to 180degrees.
> 
> TCO


Duh!

@GnarlyCharlieThis is basically what I want.



I mean I could just remove the fans (since they are push pull), but I would rather keep them if I could pull of this bend.


----------



## mouacyk

I'm really curious if anyone has tried the following:



It would probably look really cool today with hardline tubing imo.

More information: http://www.radeon3d.org/artikel/grafikkartenkuehler/alphacool_hf_14_smart_motion/montage/


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> I'm really curious if anyone has tried the following:
> 
> 
> 
> It would probably look really cool today with hardline tubing imo.
> 
> More information: http://www.radeon3d.org/artikel/grafikkartenkuehler/alphacool_hf_14_smart_motion/montage/


Looks like a leaking nightmare... do they even make blocks that size?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> I'm really curious if anyone has tried the following:
> 
> 
> 
> It would probably look really cool today with hardline tubing imo.
> 
> More information: http://www.radeon3d.org/artikel/grafikkartenkuehler/alphacool_hf_14_smart_motion/montage/


It is weird that that cools the memory and not the power components of the card...Looks like quite messy and not worth the trouble since the memory chips is not what actually need active cooling. Anyway I enjoy seeing that thing so thanks for the link.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yeah, I'm a little confused lol. This is why I hate math :/ I was just thinking that if I had a 30 degree fitting, I would need a 150 degree bend to make it straight, if that makes sense. Let me use paint reall quick and I'll show what I mean.
> Duh!
> 
> @GnarlyCharlieThis is basically what I want.
> 
> 
> 
> I mean I could just remove the fans (since they are push pull), but I would rather keep them if I could pull of this bend.


Than you want a 60 degree bend followed by a 90 st he top. A lot easier than a 150 degree bend. If you do I would use a small extender and a 90 rather than the 30 degree fitting


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> I'm really curious if anyone has tried the following:
> 
> 
> 
> It would probably look really cool today with hardline tubing imo.
> 
> More information: http://www.radeon3d.org/artikel/grafikkartenkuehler/alphacool_hf_14_smart_motion/montage/
> 
> 
> 
> It is weird that that cools the memory and not the power components of the card...Looks like quite messy and not worth the trouble since the memory chips is not what actually need active cooling. Anyway I enjoy seeing that thing so thanks for the link.
Click to expand...

Seems to me that that mess of spaghetti could be serial'd. Not sure how well it would cool the DDRam but there are watercooling VRM heatsinks iirc so coupled with that it should work in theory. I wouldn't try it without a VRM block though.









Oh and flush the hardline idea. Those barbs are pretty small. I know that hardline requires a compression fitting. Those blocks are what 10x10mm (+/-), no way you're hardlining 1 let alone 8 of them.

~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yeah, I'm a little confused lol. This is why I hate math :/ I was just thinking that if I had a 30 degree fitting, I would need a 150 degree bend to make it straight, if that makes sense. Let me use paint reall quick and I'll show what I mean.
> Duh!
> 
> @GnarlyCharlieThis is basically what I want.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean I could just remove the fans (since they are push pull), but I would rather keep them if I could pull of this bend.


OK, that's not bending the tube 150°, you're only bending the tube 30° ---- 180° (straight tube) minus the 30° bend gives you a 150° angle, not a 150° bend.

I'll draw it in AutoCad and attach as a pdf. Give me a sec.

Drawing1-Model.pdf 2k .pdf file


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yeah, I'm a little confused lol. This is why I hate math :/ I was just thinking that if I had a 30 degree fitting, I would need a 150 degree bend to make it straight, if that makes sense. Let me use paint reall quick and I'll show what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> @GnarlyCharlieThis is basically what I want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean I could just remove the fans (since they are push pull), but I would rather keep them if I could pull of this bend.


You could literally just heat up the tube, right before the end that you want to connect to the bottom fitting and bend it a hair.

I wouldn't consider using a measuring tool for that.

TCO


----------



## jvillaveces

I updated "Eldorado", my daily driver. I raplaced the front Alphacool 280 with a Black Ice GTS 280 60mm and made it push-pull, and added a 140 rad. I also replaced my GTX980s with 980 TIs, they should serve me well for another year. My 4790k @ 4600 MHz idles at 28Cand gets to 84C at load, and the GPUs (overclocked an overvolted) idle at 26C/29C and get to 50C under load, so now I'm happy with my temps, which had been creeping up. I also changed the black cables to an Ensourced Custom set, and chnaged the black coolant to a gray shade that matches the gray on the cables. I still need to tighten up the cable management a bit, shorten the tubing from pump to GPU so the fitting lies straight, and put in a PSU cover I'm working on, but overall I'm very happy with the way the main elements of the upgrade turned out.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> OK, that's not bending the tube 150°, you're only bending the tube 30° ---- 180° (straight tube) minus the 30° bend gives you a 150° angle, not a 150° bend.
> 
> I'll draw it in AutoCad and attach as a pdf. Give me a sec.
> 
> Drawing1-Model.pdf 2k .pdf file


Awesome, thanks for that. So does that mean I would still bend it at a 150 degree angle (the picture I posted that you put the red lines on)? Or the 30 degree angel. I'm still a little confused, bend vs angle lol.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Awesome, thanks for that. So does that mean I would still bend it at a 150 degree angle (the picture I posted that you put the red lines on)? Or the 30 degree angel. I'm still a little confused, bend vs angle lol.


You'll want this


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> You'll want this


THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I was thinking I wanted to get to 180 and by having a 30 degree fitting, that I would've needs a 150 degree bend. But it's actually 180-150. Thanks again. This will definately help. So what I really want is a 30 degree angle.

I could've just removed the fans, but I bought them for push pull. Thanks again! Really appreciate it. I broke my Monsoon hand saw today, so I'll need to go out a buy a cheap one to finish it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Get this.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-11-in-Miter-Box-with-Saw-121BSB14/204787577
<--- click pic









Cheap and effective and comes with a mitre box. I have one and it works great for small tubing. Although I admit I used the Monsoon miter box as a tubing holder to keep the tubing off the surface









~Ceadder


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Seems to me that that mess of spaghetti could be serial'd. Not sure how well it would cool the DDRam but there are watercooling VRM heatsinks iirc so coupled with that it should work in theory. I wouldn't try it without a VRM block though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and flush the hardline idea. Those barbs are pretty small. I know that hardline requires a compression fitting. Those blocks are what 10x10mm (+/-), no way you're hardlining 1 let alone 8 of them.
> 
> ~Ceadder


BUT, they are copper, which means you could in theory weld copper tubing between the sinks themselves and then have a small copper run to the splitter, which would resume the G1/4" for the rest of the loop


----------



## SteezyTN

Thanks @GnarlyCharlie

Got it working. I suck at bending. Didn't bend my 90 right and now it's too high for the fitting. Gotta love this :/


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

That's why I buy about 4 times as much tubing as I think I'll need


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> That's why I buy about 4 times as much tubing as I think I'll need


Thats why I bought the primochill PETG 12 pack (36in). $29.99 and all worth it lol.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Seems to me that that mess of spaghetti could be serial'd. Not sure how well it would cool the DDRam but there are watercooling VRM heatsinks iirc so coupled with that it should work in theory. I wouldn't try it without a VRM block though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and flush the hardline idea. Those barbs are pretty small. I know that hardline requires a compression fitting. Those blocks are what 10x10mm (+/-), no way you're hardlining 1 let alone 8 of them.
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's serial'ed in this installation. I know it's lacking the VRM cooling, which is required for today's GPUs but still looks awesome. Imagine showing that off at a LAN party.


Admittedly -- today's full cover blocks already adequately cool the VRAM chips, so functionality-wise, this is pointless. It's the head-turning that'll make it worth it.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> It's serial'ed in this installation. I know it's lacking the VRM cooling, which is required for today's GPUs but still looks awesome. Imagine showing that off at a LAN party.
> 
> 
> Admittedly -- today's full cover blocks already adequately cool the VRAM chips, so functionality-wise, this is pointless. It's the head-turning that'll make it worth it.


That would look pretty awesome with a dark blood red coolant running through it and would fit nicely into a sci-fi/horror theme







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> It's serial'ed in this installation. I know it's lacking the VRM cooling, which is required for today's GPUs but still looks awesome. Imagine showing that off at a LAN party *in 2005*.
> 
> 
> Admittedly -- today's full cover blocks already adequately cool the VRAM chips, so functionality-wise, this is pointless. It's the head-turning that'll make it worth it.


Fixed


----------



## Laithan

Would it have killed them to include the VRMs though...


----------



## SteezyTN

Redoing my loop.



Updated pic:



What do you guys think? I'm really liking this over my original setup.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If you want that plumbed in look then Watercool did it best....



That VRM base plate is made massively oversize in the kit so you can trim it to shape.



A bloody excellent idea.


----------



## catbuster

@steezy looks much better with rigid


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> @steezy looks much better with rigid


Thank you, Thank you









Here's an updated picture. Top compartment is all complete










Now I need to order one more slow profile 90 from PPCS because I changed my 560 fans to pull and put them in the actual bottom compartment. The passthroughs interfer with them and I need to have room. I'm also going to get two more valves. Those things went up in price, but worth it. With one valve, it takes me almost an hour, AND I still need to basically take down the entire loop lol

This Bitspower 90 degree is the only one that works


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Thank you, Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an updated picture. Top compartment is all complete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to order one more slow profile 90 from PPCS because I changed my 560 fans to pull and put them in the actual bottom compartment. The passthroughs interfer with them and I need to have room. I'm also going to get two more valves. Those things went up in price, but worth it. With one valve, it takes me almost an hour, AND I still need to basically take down the entire loop lol
> 
> This Bitspower 90 degree is the only one that works


When you post a picture on your phone change the size from 200 to 400 and 400 to 800 it won't be so small than. Looking good. For vamps to save some money and if there not visable snag a dark side, narrow , ek or alphacool they our around 15-18 used range compared to 25 for bitspower.  . See the difference no biggie just figure I d mention it


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When you post a picture on your phone change the size from 200 to 400 and 400 to 800 it won't be so small than. Looking good. For vamps to save some money and if there not visable snag a dark side, narrow , ek or alphacool they our around 15-18 used range compared to 25 for bitspower.  . See the difference no biggie just figure I d mention it


I do it from the mobile app. Next time I lost a picture, I'll make sure to switch over to the desktop version and change it. Do you mean valves (and not vamps)? I just ordered two Bitspower ones, because so far the one I have is reliable. Of course they went up $3, but since I already have one, I'll take two more







I probably only needed just one more, but I said why not and I ordered two total.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When you post a picture on your phone change the size from 200 to 400 and 400 to 800 it won't be so small than. Looking good. For vamps to save some money and if there not visable snag a dark side, narrow , ek or alphacool they our around 15-18 used range compared to 25 for bitspower.  . See the difference no biggie just figure I d mention it


Nope.

http://imgur.com/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you want that plumbed in look then Watercool did it best....
> 
> 
> 
> That VRM base plate is made massively oversize in the kit so you can trim it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> A bloody excellent idea.


Yup.

They aren't the only ones to make VRM liquid coolers but they certainly did it best.

Too bad Swiftec stopped making Full Card Heatsinks for GPUDDR5 VRM. I have a couple of them and while they're chunky, they're nice since you can mount a fan above the VRM bank and still connect it to the GPU with a minor mod of the fan connector.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

I went to PAX East today ... there is a write up in my Liquorice Allsorts build log.

Also ... what is a slow profile 90° fitting?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Now I need to order one more slow profile 90 from PPCS


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I went to PAX East today ... there is a write up in my Liquorice Allsorts build log.
> 
> Also ... what is a slow profile 90° fitting?


Pretty sure he meant LOW profile 90° fitting. Typo









Ohh on that note, I needed one of them for my enthoo primo to make a run from the pump up from behind the motherboard to my 60mm rad. Anyone know if they make low profile rotary 90s? I haven't been able to find any. :/ It would really help if it was a rotary.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The P55 reminds me of my lovely FTW P67. Probably the last good evga board before .... hit the fan (I consider Z68 FTW too).
> 
> edit:
> That sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Turned out great dude


yeah that P55 classy was a monster....my old i5 750 did some pretty amazing things on that board....including a 6.5ghz LN2 run courtesy of russian J at our grand champions event a few years ago. i kept the i5 as it booted fine and ran for hours an another board the P55 is currently being mounted with its LN2 record on a plaque for wall display.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you want that plumbed in look then Watercool did it best....
> 
> 
> 
> That VRM base plate is made massively oversize in the kit so you can trim it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> A bloody excellent idea.


id take that for my 380X about now. sadly they want an extra $35 just for the VRM block.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I went to PAX East today ... there is a write up in my Liquorice Allsorts build log.
> 
> Also ... what is a slow profile 90° fitting?


Meant low profile.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Also ... what is a slow profile 90° fitting?
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure he meant LOW profile 90° fitting. Typo
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Meant low profile.


Yeah ... I spotted that. But thought it was funny ... so posted.

What other sort of typo low profile fittings could we have ...

- glow profile fittings
- flow profile fittings
- blow profile fittings


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Yeah ... I spotted that. But thought it was funny ... so posted.
> 
> What other sort of typo low profile fittings could we have ...
> 
> - glow profile fittings
> - flow profile fittings
> - blow profile fittings


Glow Pro fittings. I like that.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Pretty sure he meant LOW profile 90° fitting. Typo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh on that note, I needed one of them for my enthoo primo to make a run from the pump up from behind the motherboard to my 60mm rad. Anyone know if they make low profile rotary 90s? I haven't been able to find any. :/ It would really help if it was a rotary.


the smallest 90 degrees rotary is the one from koolance:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13917/koo-309/Koolance_90_Degree_Rotary_Elbow_-_Single_-_Black_NZL-LXG1-BK.html

koolance height is ~24 mm when in use:

https://koolance.com/files/products/diagrams/nzl-lxg1_d1.pdf

if that does not fit your bill then the bitspower 90 degrees non rotary adapter is the smallest at around 18 mm height (if memory serves).

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_167&products_id=533


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Glow Pro fittings. I like that.
> 
> TCO


It's a pretty popular name already. It is used for a lot of companies. LEDs, phishing supplies, paint, tape, vaporizers etc but no fittings. Full UV fittings maybe?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if that does not fit your bill then the bitspower 90 degrees non rotary adapter is the smallest at around 18 mm height (if memory serves).
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_167&products_id=533


Thisnis what I use. I just bought one more because I put my 560 fans in my SMA8 in pull, and there interfered with clearance. The Bitspower low profile 90's are the smallest there are. Luckily I'm using passthroughs and don't need the rotary 90's. The passthroughs can just rotate themselves.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the smallest 90 degrees rotary is the one from koolance:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13917/koo-309/Koolance_90_Degree_Rotary_Elbow_-_Single_-_Black_NZL-LXG1-BK.html
> 
> if that does not fit your bill then the bitspower 90 degrees non rotary adapter is the smallest at around 18 mm height (if memory serves).


I'll measure and check to see if that will work. Thanks a bunch Gabrielzm. I can't seem to get the non rotary 90 I have to screw in right when ever i screw it all the way in it always ends up pointing other than where I'm trying to point it. It's like it doesn't matter where I start screwing it in or where the thread starts.

I'm actually using all BP white fittings, too bad BP doesn't make a low profile rotary or at least one that fits when I'm trying to do.

Thanks again.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Thisnis what I use. I just bought one more because I put my 560 fans in my SMA8 in pull, and there interfered with clearance. The Bitspower low profile 90's are the smallest there are. Luckily I'm using passthroughs and don't need the rotary 90's. The passthroughs can just rotate themselves.


oh thank you as well. I think I'm just going to get both since I used white BP fittings anyway and I prefer to use a white BP fitting anyway since every all the other fittings in my build or white BP fittings, however if it doesn't work out then I have another option. And it's not like it won't get used at some point. You can never have too many fittings







if I had a stock of the odd ones like this I wouldn't have to worry about it and wait for my purchase to come in and I could just finish my build right away.

Thanks for both of your help!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope.
> 
> http://imgur.com/


How do you use the app to post pictures on this site ?


----------



## muzammil84

Just leak tested my first rigid tubing loop. Passed 24h test without any issues
Still few days of work left to finish the whole build off but I thought I'd share with you



one bad pic from mobile as it's late now here. Will take some better photos once it's all finished. thx


----------



## Mega Man

i really like that. great job !

ironically it reminds me of a pina colada


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> It's a pretty popular name already. It is used for a lot of companies. LEDs, *phishing supplies*, paint, tape, vaporizers etc but no fittings. Full UV fittings maybe?


Where would one get those? Silk Road perhaps?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Where would one get those? Silk Road perhaps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Where would one get those? Silk Road perhaps?


hahaha I didn't even notice it came out like that. I'm on my phone and I used voice to text and since I work IT and we've been having a lot of phishing attacks related to invoices to our accounting department recently where I've had to respond to emails to employees mail getting quarantined by our firewall (since I set a blanket rule that quarantines anything with the word "invoice" to be safe) so I can release them if they're legit, it must have come out like that. Voice to text on my phone is really horrible if I don't go back and recheck everything I end up with a bunch of horrible mistakes.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> hahaha I didn't even notice it came out like that. I'm on my phone and I used voice to text and since I work IT and we've been having a lot of phishing attacks related to invoices to our accounting department recently where I've had to respond to emails to employees mail getting quarantined by our firewall (since I set a blanket rule that quarantines anything with the word "invoice" to be safe) so I can release them if they're legit, it must have come out like that. Voice to text on my phone is really horrible if I don't go back and recheck everything I end up with a bunch of horrible mistakes.


so much for it being a "smart"phone. Lol


----------



## Domler

Did some more painting today. Didn't like the silvery mounts for the aquaero, so they are now black. Just so it doesn't catch your eye.


And then I decided to paint my mouse. My razer mamba tournament edition chroma is now two tone.




Sorry for the potato pics, phone camera. I think it came out pretty good. I'm happy.


----------



## SteezyTN

Nice @Domler. How are you liking the SMA8? Super nice huh? I just finished the tubing in the top compartment in mine.


----------



## Domler

@SteezyTN I love it. It's enormous. Was thinking of using your old cpu run that came up, left then up. Then for the out , gowing up, then left. Then the return run from the side port close to the window across to the right, then down, like you just did. Said darn it, someone beat me to it. I'm starting to have second thoughts on the green color for the case. The black and grey is soo pretty, I'm think chrome or black sparkle tubing. Hmmm.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @SteezyTN I love it. It's enormous. Was thinking of using your old cpu run that came up, left then up. Then for the out , gowing up, then left. Then the return run from the side port close to the window across to the right, then down, like you just did. Said darn it, someone beat me to it. I'm starting to have second thoughts on the green color for the case. The black and grey is soo pretty, I'm think chrome or black sparkle tubing. Hmmm.


I personally think the black/gunmetal/green look great! The green really makes the black stand out. And about my run, I just came up with it two nights ago. I haven't seen anyone do it or even heard of anyone doing it yet, so I said I'll give it a try. It was really the cleanest way for me to do it and it apparently worked







it's hard to work in this case when it comes to making it your own. No matter what you do, people will point it out as a "Jayz Skunkworks" :/


----------



## Domler

@SteezyTN I hear ya on the jayztwocents bit. It's the one curse of this case, anyone not heavy into watercooling, it's the first thing they say, cause it's the only one they have ever seen.
And now I need to stop painting today. The mouse came out so well that I painted my ducky shine 5. And I think it looks really good. Better in person. Played with the lighting on the mouse and keyboard. Green does look pretty neat thou. Once again, show mercy for the phone pics.


----------



## Iceman2733

Every time I see pics of the grey sma8 I regret not getting that color. Makes me freaking sad

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mega Man

have no fear ! buy another !


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Domler

Your Sick Bro. Just put the paint can down.

The Grey came out good though.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

For anyone whom had switched or used the mayhems glass tubing. Do you have any tips on working with it. Specifically what tools (maybe a link to it ) worked best. I know how to cut it but want to see what tools worked well. I will be cutting Petg to length as a mock up


----------



## rathborne

I watched this tutorial last night and thought the idea of using the drill as a cheap lathe was pretty cool







.


----------



## VSG

^ Except that is hazardous when it comes to the tool, and handling the drill with the hand. For quartz/borosilicate glass, we always use a diamond blade/saw depending on the side of the tube. I would say what Mayhems and Alphacool say about using a diamond cutting wheel for a rotary tool is fine, just have gloves and safety glasses on and try to secure the tube in place during cutting.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I watched this tutorial last night and thought the idea of using the drill as a cheap lathe was pretty cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Never take advice or tips from this idiot.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Never take advice or tips from this idiot.










Just knew someone would be blunt. Glad it wasn't me


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just knew someone would be blunt. Glad it wasn't me


Never been one to not say what I think.


----------



## rathborne

What other youtube content creators would you reccomend as an alternative?


----------



## Mega Man

There is a problem with your statement. I would almost always NEVER recommend youtube people. With few exceptions.

Again this depends on a few thing but esp cutting glass tube. Very dangerous. Make sure you do this right.

As for me I would only use a hand cutter.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> What other youtube content creators would you reccomend as an alternative?


Honestly, none are all that great. Far more knowledge and skill for this kind of thing on forums like this. Linus is ok for entertainment value. But is lacking. Tech Syndicate is hit and miss. Logan is a tool but the fat guy that does the Linux and other tech stuff knows his stuff. Everyone that does Awesomesause are a bunch of tools. Pretty much the same boat as Jay. Dont really know what they are talking about half the time. The Paul guy that is on there has his own couple of channels. One of them does virtual builds all the time. Seen several builds that he shows off that would not even work because of compatability issues. Or things like having to many devices using PCIe lanes. Like SLI and M.2 on boards where the M.2 PCIE is shared with the GPUs.

There are a few smaller guys here and there with decent videos on specific topics. But no good one stop shop. The best is still in written form. Articles on reputable tech sites and solid forum members.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is a problem with your statement. I would almost always NEVER recommend youtube people. With few exceptions.
> 
> Again this depends on a few thing but esp cutting glass tube. Very dangerous. Make sure you do this right.
> 
> As for me I would only use a hand cutter.


lol so true.. especially for GPU overclocking/BIOS modding.. Stay far away!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Honestly, none are all that great. Far more knowledge and skill for this kind of thing on forums like this. Linus is ok for entertainment value. But is lacking. Tech Syndicate is hit and miss. Logan is a tool but the fat guy that does the Linux and other tech stuff knows his stuff. Everyone that does Awesomesause are a bunch of tools. Pretty much the same boat as Jay. Dont really know what they are talking about half the time. The Paul guy that is on there has his own couple of channels. One of them does virtual builds all the time. Seen several builds that he shows off that would not even work because of compatability issues. Or things like having to many devices using PCIe lanes. Like SLI and M.2 on boards where the M.2 PCIE is shared with the GPUs.
> 
> There are a few smaller guys here and there with decent videos on specific topics. But no good one stop shop. The best is still in written form. Articles on reputable tech sites and solid forum members.


HardwareCanucks is pretty solid most of the time, although pretty limited to pretty mainstream stuff.


----------



## Domler

????? jay says he is tired of people warning him of glass dust that he might go snort some. Please do. Let me know I works out.
Personally working with mayhems glass, I can say,
GLASS DUST IS LETHAL!!! WEAR A MASK. AND FOR GOD'S SAKE, DO NOT LICK YOUR FINGERS TO LUBE THE SCORE.
?????? He's gonna kill someone.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> ????? jay says he is tired of people warning him of glass dust that he might go snort some. Please do. Let me know I works out.
> Personally working with mayhems glass, I can say,
> GLASS DUST IS LETHAL!!! WEAR A MASK. AND FOR GOD'S SAKE, DO NOT LICK YOUR FINGERS TO LUBE THE SCORE.
> ?????? He's gonna kill someone.


Like i said, he is an idiot.


----------



## rathborne

While I do get most of my content and inspiration from forums i find youtube great to watch/listen to in the background while doing other mundane tasks.


----------



## Domler

Oh, I hear. I have watched some of his stuff. I try and take as many views on stuff that I can and try to find a common thread between all of them. Then make a decision from their. But Jesus, glass dust can kill.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> ????? jay says he is tired of people warning him of glass dust that he might go snort some. Please do. Let me know I works out.
> Personally working with mayhems glass, I can say,
> GLASS DUST IS LETHAL!!! WEAR A MASK. AND FOR GOD'S SAKE, DO NOT LICK YOUR FINGERS TO LUBE THE SCORE.
> ?????? He's gonna kill someone.


dont forget too, acrylic can shatter if hit hard enough ! ( so i assume he means glass cant ? )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Oh, I hear. I have watched some of his stuff. I try and take as many views on stuff that I can and try to find a common thread between all of them. Then make a decision from their. But Jesus, glass dust can kill.


i like jay, he seems like a nice guy, but about, well everything, i have seen him spew falsehoods out his rear like there is no tomorrow ...


----------



## Prophet4NO1

There is one really, really good computer related channel I forgot about. But it's more about IT professional training. Eli the Computer Guy. The guy is legit. The channel is so good some teachers/professors use it are part of their curriculum. Just be ready for some time investment. Depending on the subject you may have to watch several one hour plus videos. One of the few places you can get IT training for free that is not total BS.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> ????? jay says he is tired of people warning him of glass dust that he might go snort some. Please do. Let me know I works out.
> Personally working with mayhems glass, I can say,
> GLASS DUST IS LETHAL!!! WEAR A MASK. AND FOR GOD'S SAKE, DO NOT LICK YOUR FINGERS TO LUBE THE SCORE.
> ?????? He's gonna kill someone.


False.

Proof.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> What other youtube content creators would you reccomend as an alternative?


personally though completely unrelated one of the ONLY guys on youtube i like is Jim Sterling,

i have not laughed so hard watching his stuff, like it, hate it, it was funny esp the whole "The Slaughtering Grounds" shenanigans my god i laugh so long...


----------



## Domler

I got kids. Not willing to risk it. All I'm saying is use with caution. It definitely sucks if you get some in your eye. I know first hand.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> False.
> 
> Proof.


Inhaling glass dust can kill you. It gets in your lungs and never leaves. Same sort of thing silica dust does. This is why you wear masks when using glass bead blasters. It wont kill you now. It will kill you years down the road.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> False.
> 
> Proof.
> 
> 
> 
> Inhaling glass dust can kill you. It gets in your lungs and never leaves. Same sort of thing silica dust does. This is why you wear masks when using glass bead blasters. It wont kill you now. It will kill you years down the road.
Click to expand...

False.

Proof.

Get enough of anything in your lungs and it is bad news...even water or oxygen.

Edit to add: I will agree that in a profesional, 8 hour a day setting, glass dust in your lungs is probably a bad thing, as is wood dust, coal dust, or really any type of "dust". But for someone making a few cuts on some glass tubing for their PC, it is a complete non issue.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dont forget too, acrylic can shatter if hit hard enough ! ( so i assume he means glass cant ? )
> i like jay, he seems like a nice guy, but about, well everything, i have seen him spew falsehoods out his rear like there is no tomorrow ...


I've tried to break my 13mm acrylic and I can honestly say it's a load of BS like I knew it was after talking with B NEG. I like Jay I really do, but he's american and well... I dunno what is in the water or polluting the air over there but something has to give. The whole mayhems thing was a joke from both parties involved and should never of happened. Using a drill on a motherboard to make the predator EK kit fit... *** man seriously... Linus... Don't even get me started, that whole channel is a poor joke and I'm constantly getting told delidding is pointless after that whole video full of misdirection and misinformation. All you have to do with mayhems glass is score it and you can snap it clean.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> False.
> 
> Proof.
> 
> Get enough of anything in your lungs and it is bad news...even water or oxygen.
> 
> Edit to add: I will agree that in a profesional, 8 hour a day setting, glass dust in your lungs is probably a bad thing, as is wood dust, coal dust, or really any type of "dust". But for someone making a few cuts on some glass tubing for their PC, it is a complete non issue.


I will take my actual job training over an article online.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dont forget too, acrylic can shatter if hit hard enough ! ( so i assume he means glass cant ? )
> i like jay, he seems like a nice guy, but about, well everything, i have seen him spew falsehoods out his rear like there is no tomorrow ...
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried to break my 13mm acrylic and I can honestly say it's a load of BS like I knew it was after talking with B NEG. I like Jay I really do, but he's american and well... I dunno what is in the water or polluting the air over there but something has to give. The whole mayhems thing was a joke from both parties involved and should never of happened. Using a drill on a motherboard to make the predator EK kit fit... *** man seriously... Linus... Don't even get me started, that whole channel is a poor joke and I'm constantly getting told delidding is pointless after that whole video full of misdirection and misinformation. All you have to do with mayhems glass is score it and you can snap it clean.
Click to expand...

fixed for you !!!!

hahaha ( joking ish with you )

now what about deliding?? a new story i dont know !

it is true, acrylic CAN shatter ( i stepped on one by accident. ) and it does get weaker after being melted.

but glass CAN shatter as well...

you want to do a glass build to say you did it, great, same with copper, stainless hell go crazy and do square !

you want to do glass for the clarity., great !

dont make stuff up


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fixed for you !!!!
> 
> hahaha ( joking ish with you )
> 
> now what about deliding?? a new story i dont know !
> 
> it is true, acrylic CAN shatter ( i stepped on one by accident. ) and it does get weaker after being melted.
> 
> but glass CAN shatter as well...
> 
> you want to do a glass build to say you did it, great, same with copper, stainless hell go crazy and do square !
> 
> you want to do glass for the clarity., great !
> 
> dont make stuff up


Agreed, heres the vid of linus saying delidding is BS.


----------



## Mega Man

wow 2 minutes in ... wow, he really has tanked in terms of ... everything

"that liquid metal stuff or w.e."... can anyone say out of touch?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Agreed, heres the vid of linus saying delidding is BS.


As i said before, good for entertainment. Lol. Most the attempts at real tech stuff is haphazard at best. Good for a laugh. Although the scrapyard wars thing is kinda fun. But, again, i would take any tips or advise with a cup of salt.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> As i said before, good for entertainment. Lol. Most the attempts at real tech stuff is haphazard at best. Good for a laugh. Although the scrapyard wars thing is kinda fun. But, again, i would take any tips or advise with a cup of salt.


The problem is his audience are mainly kids and they hang off every word he says, the amount of times I've seen people struggling with heat a simple delid would solve but they refuse to listen to solid advice thanks to linus and his misinformation. I hope Intel are paying him a great deal for selling his credibility...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wow 2 minutes in ... wow, he really has tanked in terms of ... everything
> 
> "that liquid metal stuff or w.e."... can anyone say out of touch?


He has a 3d printer and he used a blade to delid with, he could of printed the many delid tools available... I unsubbed after that video, I honestly couldn't believe my eyes.


----------



## mouacyk




----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> False.
> 
> Proof.
> 
> Get enough of anything in your lungs and it is bad news...even water or oxygen.
> 
> Edit to add: I will agree that in a profesional, 8 hour a day setting, glass dust in your lungs is probably a bad thing, as is wood dust, coal dust, or really any type of "dust". But for someone making a few cuts on some glass tubing for their PC, it is a complete non issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I will take my actual job training over an article online.
Click to expand...

Allright, I will take a few hudred years of documented science over some random on the internet telling me that I am going to die if I cut glass tubes for my PC without a mask.


----------



## Costas

Lets face it.... The types like Linus, Jayz etc are simply glorified product reviewers.

They are not necessarily experts on any one topic.

Generally you will find a lot more experienced folk on quality forums. For instance my background is in electronics and I am a lot more experienced in this field than these reviewers could ever hope to be. Other members have other skill sets whether it be in the engineering, medical, chemical domains etc etc etc.

None of these reviewers can hope to match these people so they generally fall into the modern day Youtube version of a car sales person....


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Allright, I will take a few hudred years of documented science over some random on the internet telling me that I am going to die if I cut glass tubes for my PC without a mask.


Because industry training is based on nothing at all. I had to deal with silica and glass dust on frac jobs in the oil patch and now in road work it's the same. We have bead blasters that shoot high pressure beads for blasting paint off road surfaces. We also have little paint beads we add to the paint for higher reflective. Both come with MSD sheets covering inhalation dangers. Including a potential carcinogen. The reflective beads are pretty large and less of a risk, but the ones being blasted basically explode into a powder on impact. They don't make all these sheets, rule, and regulations for nothing. Some one at some point paid the price. Pretty much every OSHA regulation is written in blood.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Lets face it.... The types like Linus, Jayz etc are simply glorified product reviewers.
> 
> They are not necessarily experts on any one topic.


Personally, I'd classify Linus (as of late, at least) as more of an entertainer than anything, but for the rest (for some reason Jay especially), I'd definitely agree with you. As Prophet said, great for a few laughs, but at the end of the day, you'll get much more accurate and useful info out of forums. It definitely doesn't help that those channels spew misinformation like there's no tomorrow, either.

I'd like to give them the benefit of the doubt and say that it's unintentional, and I'd believe Linus or, say, Kyle (Awesomesauce) if they apologized for misinformation and put a disclaimer in their stuff saying something along the lines of "YMMV," but I've heard too much marketing **** spewed from Jayz mouth to believe him again.


----------



## Mega Man

Here i will just take this drill....

My fav reviewer is still joannes Tech lover. You should see some of her model pics....


----------



## wermad

I actually viewed a few of TastyPc's videos and though i have no objections with the ladies doing videos and tech reviews, I found her videos very thin and really lost interested right away. Its hard to do that when there's a gorgeous girl in the middle but I felt as if this was graduate student doing lecture at university (and I've had a few of these in my experience). Linus, I find his reviews a bit long winded except the short bit ones he does for his sponsor/employer. jays, I do like his reviews as they're a bit more laid back and he reminds me of tiny-tom but does his videos much shorter. Anyways, video reviews are nice and all, but I rather read the written reviews online. Maybe it comes from my years of subscribing to PC-Gamer in the late 90s to early 2000s.

I'll give that Joanne a try and see how she fairs. Again, I don't mind who the face is, but I really enjoy when the presenter has the audience's attention and holds it.


----------



## Mega Man

She more breaks down everything... I like it for some high res shots (she and Paul did my fav Vids of cases when they worked for new egg...


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I actually viewed a few of TastyPc's videos and though i have no objections with the ladies doing videos and tech reviews, I found her videos very thin and really lost interested right away. Its hard to do that when there's a gorgeous girl in the middle but I felt as if this was graduate student doing lecture at university (and I've had a few of these in my experience). Linus, I find his reviews a bit long winded except the short bit ones he does for his sponsor/employer. jays, I do like his reviews as they're a bit more laid back and he reminds me of tiny-tom but does his videos much shorter. Anyways, video reviews are nice and all, but I rather read the written reviews online. Maybe it comes from my years of subscribing *to PC-Gamer in the late 90s to early 2000s.*
> 
> I'll give that Joanne a try and see how she fairs. Again, I don't mind who the face is, but I really enjoy when the presenter has the audience's attention and holds it.


Remember when some of the issues where 200 pages and mostly things to read. Rather then a pile of adds they are now? Hell, I remember seeing the early Quake 3 spread. It was practically a mag in the mag. The in game shots had the faces of John Carmack and the others on models. lol And lets not forget the epic CD and Coconut Monkey. My favorite CD environment was the back ally one where you went down into the seedy looking basement office. I miss those days.


----------



## gree

Ive only seen a few of her videos and they werent that great. Shes nice to look at tho


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Ive only seen a few of her videos and they werent that great. Shes nice to look at tho


She's a nice person too, shame people can't look past her looks really. Lauren doesn't put up much content due to personal life issues and generally people giving her rubbish because she's female. I found her due to a smoke test of some fans when I was looking into fans a few years back before her issues started.


----------



## mus1mus

Y U not one mentioned Dimitry for the case reviews?


----------



## rathborne

When i'm actively researching a topic or product nothing beats written reviews or user feedback on forums. Easier to process or glance at the content to determine if it's relevant. I like having my youtube reviews and guides for either processes that are hands-on (like using the dremel or spraying conputer cases) or to listen to when doing something else.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Allright, I will take a few hudred years of documented science over some random on the internet telling me that I am going to die if I cut glass tubes for my PC without a mask.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because industry training is based on nothing at all. I had to deal with silica and glass dust on frac jobs in the oil patch and now in road work it's the same. We have bead blasters that shoot high pressure beads for blasting paint off road surfaces. We also have little paint beads we add to the paint for higher reflective. Both come with MSD sheets covering inhalation dangers. Including a potential carcinogen. The reflective beads are pretty large and less of a risk, but the ones being blasted basically explode into a powder on impact. They don't make all these sheets, rule, and regulations for nothing. Some one at some point paid the price. Pretty much every OSHA regulation is written in blood.
Click to expand...

Glass dust from cutting a glass tube is not the same type of crystaline silica that does damage to the lungs. And again...any type of dust exposure for 8 hours a day should be accompanied with a mask. An overclocker who wants to put glass tubing in his Rig does not run the same risk, neither from the amount of exposure, nor the type of silica dust. Your MSD sheets are absolutely to be trusted in your line of work, but do not apply to amorphus silica in such a small exposure sample. Joe Overclocker is not going to get lung cancer from prepping his glass tubes with a hand cutter and hand file.

Amorphus Silica found in dust from glass=non toxic
Crystaline Silica found in industrial silica beads=deadly

Your profesional experience with bead blasting, while impressive, and certainly dangerous to the lungs, does not apply to the conversation regarding:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> ????? jay says he is tired of people warning him of glass dust that he might go snort some. Please do. Let me know I works out.
> Personally working with mayhems glass, I can say,
> GLASS DUST IS LETHAL!!! WEAR A MASK. AND FOR GOD'S SAKE, DO NOT LICK YOUR FINGERS TO LUBE THE SCORE.
> ?????? He's gonna kill someone.


Jay is still a moron for offering to snort a line of glass dust, but he certainly would survive the incidient, and it wont give him cancer.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Remember when some of the issues where 200 pages and mostly things to read. Rather then a pile of adds they are now? Hell, I remember seeing the early Quake 3 spread. It was practically a mag in the mag. The in game shots had the faces of John Carmack and the others on models. lol And lets not forget the epic CD and Coconut Monkey. My favorite CD environment was the back ally one where you went down into the seedy looking basement office. I miss those days.


Internet killed the magazine star.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Remember when some of the issues where 200 pages and mostly things to read. Rather then a pile of adds they are now? Hell, I remember seeing the early Quake 3 spread. It was practically a mag in the mag. The in game shots had the faces of John Carmack and the others on models. lol And lets not forget the epic CD and Coconut Monkey. My favorite CD environment was the back ally one where you went down into the seedy looking basement office. I miss those days.


I remember the 400 page specials for computer gaming world and their yearly over the top builds they came up with. First one I looked at featured the Pentium pro 200 and a forte vfx-1 for something like $9k USD...

Had some cute ads back then too, like the whole "for the best 3d experience smack this magazine into your face" ads... Not that I can remember who ran them, but wow that was back in the 3dfx was king days.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Remember when some of the issues where 200 pages and mostly things to read. Rather then a pile of adds they are now? Hell, I remember seeing the early Quake 3 spread. It was practically a mag in the mag. The in game shots had the faces of John Carmack and the others on models. lol And lets not forget the epic CD and Coconut Monkey. My favorite CD environment was the back ally one where you went down into the seedy looking basement office. I miss those days.


Oh yeah! the demo cd's....good lordy, i couldnt' wait for the next issue seeing the tidbits from the current issues of what's next. The issue with Freespace and its demo was the turning point for me from treading safe pc gaming water, to lets do this for real. Fond memories and I still have the original cd's and sleeve (as well as Freespace 2):



I was addicted to the demo that I blew all my savings as a kid on getting the retail $75 copy and the $20 "players guide" (useless looking back tbh).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Internet killed the magazine star.


Imho, it was broadband internet that killed the magazine. With dial up, you got the first few pages of the magazine, and then you were required to pick up the physical copy to read the rest. just teasers so I horded my pc-gamer magazines. and i did the same with sports compact car magazine (damn Fast and furious....







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Ive only seen a few of her videos and they werent that great. Shes nice to look at tho
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> She's a nice person too, shame people can't look past her looks really. Lauren doesn't put up much content due to personal life issues and generally people giving her rubbish because she's female. I found her due to a smoke test of some fans when I was looking into fans a few years back before her issues started.
Click to expand...

Lauren or Joanne?

I've seen a few reviews from Lauren and though she has the right idea, there's just not enough for one to stay with it. No matter who you are, if you're gonna do this seriously, then you need to do it seriously. No disrespect, but I was a little shock to hear her age as she looks more mature and refined. Must be that British accent and the golden locks


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I watched this tutorial last night and thought the idea of using the drill as a cheap lathe was pretty cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never take advice or tips from this idiot.
Click to expand...

Right on!


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> She's a nice person too, shame people can't look past her looks really. Lauren doesn't put up much content due to personal life issues and generally people giving her rubbish because she's female. I found her due to a smoke test of some fans when I was looking into fans a few years back before her issues started.


I just didnt get much info out of the video, had to find an actual written review online to get the info i needed. In her defense non of the other videos that came up did much better.

What does her being nice have to do with it tho?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Imho, it was broadband internet that killed the magazine. With dial up, you got the first few pages of the magazine, and then you were required to pick up the physical copy to read the rest. just teasers so I horded my pc-gamer magazines. and i did the same with sports compact car magazine (damn Fast and furious....redface.gif)


When demo CDs were the only way to get demos and a look at a game before you bought it, PC Gamer and it's cousins were the only way to fly. As the Internet matured, there was no way for a print mag of any kind to really keep up with the faster news cycle the internet could enable. it isn't about broadband, It is about developers having the ability to interface directly with potential customers, basically cutting the middleman press mostly out of the world of scoops and exclusives. Why buy a magazine with 3 month old information when you can get the info right away practically straight from the developer. Broadband may be the enhanced delivery system, but that is really putting too fine a point on it.

But the real problem here is you skipped over my reference to this classic-


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> She more breaks down everything... I like it for some high res shots (she and Paul did my fav Vids of cases when they worked for new egg...


Why so many keyboards...??? Meh, ill stick with written reviews.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dont forget too, acrylic can shatter if hit hard enough ! ( so i assume he means glass cant ? )
> i like jay, he seems like a nice guy, but about, well everything, i have seen him spew falsehoods out his rear like there is no tomorrow ...
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried to break my 13mm acrylic and I can honestly say it's a load of BS like I knew it was after talking with B NEG. I like Jay I really do, but he's american and well... I dunno what is in the water or polluting the air over there but something has to give. The whole mayhems thing was a joke from both parties involved and should never of happened. Using a drill on a motherboard to make the predator EK kit fit... *** man seriously... Linus... Don't even get me started, that whole channel is a poor joke and I'm constantly getting told delidding is pointless after that whole video full of misdirection and misinformation. All you have to do with mayhems glass is score it and you can snap it clean.
Click to expand...

I've found that if you say anything the remotest bit negative (as Jay did concerning Mayhems) it will lead to negative backlash. Whether or not you were actively going in that direction with an opinion on a product.

I saw the video an imho, Jay was just saying that he was done with that product. For reasons of his own and he wasn't saying it to trash Mayhems imho. I feel that the issue was an abundance of Flux from the Radiators. He eventually replaced them with the EK coolstreams he had prior to running the Mayhems product. So it seems that he may have figured this out.

Personally, I view everything tech related on YouTube with a large grain of sodium chloride.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wow talk about covering every aspect of cooling (Designed for the Skylake CPU's)


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It is a new lid for after delliding, wider to cover more of the pbc for less flex.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh I see now.









Thanks for the clarification. I was wondering how BP could justify throwing their badging on Skylake like that.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> When demo CDs were the only way to get demos and a look at a game before you bought it, PC Gamer and it's cousins were the only way to fly. As the *Internet matured*, there was no way for a print mag of any kind to really keep up with the faster news cycle the internet could enable. it isn't about broadband, basically cutting the middleman press mostly out of the world of scoops and exclusives. Why buy a magazine with 3 month old information when you can get the info right away practically straight from the developer. Broadband may be the enhanced delivery system, but that is really putting too fine a point on it.
> 
> But the real problem here is you skipped over my reference to this classic-


It only could mature if access to it was better and by better, it had to be faster. The only reason i kept going with magazines, despite having had 56k for years, was the rich content delivery it gave me. The pages were full of color and pictures and stuff that made them great. This was something that 56k could not do. Sure, one can print a review in plain old text and post it within 24 hours for world to see in 56k. But what about the screen shots, and banners, and links to downloading the demo??? And what about the advertisements that actually was the main revenue generator? Without a fast connection, you couldn't deliver the same *experience* you got holding a shiny magazine. Broadband bridged that gap and slowly, the magazine gave way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> It is about developers having the ability to interface directly with potential customers,


Even 56k could deliver speedy news. I remember keeping score of the several games going on during the nba playoffs using my 56K. Could you watch highlight videos on 56k? No, and that's why I watched the highlights on tv.

Since broadband could now deliver that same rich content experience easily (by being faster), magazines became thinner and thinner. Saw it on both PC-Gamer and Sports Compact Car magazine.

Yes, you are correct that by being more efficient (through more broadband access), publishers were able to decrease their dependency on print and eliminated the delay of content to magazine subscribers. Faster is better


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahhh I see now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clarification. I was wondering how BP could justify throwing their badging on Skylake like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


I hope the logo is just part of the ad


----------



## wermad

Curious why to ppl dislike the BP logo? I don't actually mind and it looks good imho


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Curious why to ppl dislike the BP logo? I don't actually mind and it looks good imho


I wouldn't mind it on an IHS, but having it plastered all over my build on fittings, the pump top, any blocks, and the res, is just obnoxious. It's pretty much the only reason I went Barrow in my rig instead of jumping for a bunch of BP fittings. I'm only using 10-12 fittings, so cost wouldn't have been crazy with the BP ones..


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I like the BP logo because it's a dragon







although it is a bit bland and boring.

On another note, think my dive into custom watercooling is done, I haven't had any fun with it at all (once it was built it was fine but building / filling / bleeding was a nightmare every time) and even though it does seem to give nice ish temps I think next rebuilt I'll be going back to AIO just for the simplicity of it (my rads are 40mm thick anyway so shouldn't be much difference in temps).


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Curious why to ppl dislike the BP logo? I don't actually mind and it looks good imho


I just dont see the point in having it on the one part of my rig that will alway be covered. I would rather save $0.03 and have them leave it off. I also would be interested to know how they brand it, and if it will have any impact on cooling efficiency. It just seems all aorund silly to brand an aftermarket IHS to me...nothing against the logo itself.


----------



## BrjSan

Trying my luck in here

Can i use this Oring

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-black-o-ring-for-multi-link-od-16mm-adapter-10pcs-black.html

With this EK fitting from the tube side

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-hdc-fitting-16mm-g1-4-nickel.html

peace


----------



## catbuster

I like watching Singularity Computers youtube channel







and others are just clowns


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've seen a few reviews from Lauren and though she has the right idea, there's just not enough for one to stay with it. No matter who you are, if you're gonna do this seriously, then you need to do it seriously. No disrespect, but I was a little shock to hear her age as she looks more mature and refined. Must be that British accent and the golden locks


Based on one third of one vid, Lauren seemed to cover to item being reviewed fairly well. The pics of the stuff were very good and she walked you through the various items with some personal input. Her accent mispronunciations (ie _funderbolt_ instead of _thunderbolt_) was a bit annoying.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'll give that Joanne a try and see how she fairs. Again, I don't mind who the face is, but I really enjoy when the presenter has the audience's attention and holds it.


Again, based on one third of one vid, Joanne was a little more engaging, easier to understand but her pics weren't as good or clear.

I usually watch vids to see the product in question, get a good view of all the angles, etc. Entertainment is good, clean and detailed pictures is my top requirement, opinion is down the list of requirements.


----------



## rathborne

Singluarity Computers do some really nice builds. I was impressed to hear they ship their work internationally from Australia as I can only begin to imagine the extravagant cost to freight one of those big heavy crates from here







.


----------



## Georgey123

Have to agree, Singularity Computers is my favourite at the moment. He is so passionate about what he does. Jay seems nice and all but I've been misinformed on 3 occasions now from him which is disappointing. Can't really beat forums like this or other tbh.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Based on one third of one vid, Lauren seemed to cover to item being reviewed fairly well. The pics of the stuff were very good and she walked you through the various items with some personal input. Her accent (ie _funderbolt_ instead of _thunderbolt_) was a bit annoying.


I played one of Lauren's case reviews for friends and they had the same gripe about her accent... no issue for me as I've got family in the UK and watch BBC shows so I'm used to the accent







.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I played one of Lauren's case reviews for friends and they had the same gripe about her accent... no issue for me as I've got family in the UK and watch BBC shows so I'm used to the accent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Personally I have no issues with the britisch accents, it's the other mouth noises she makes that bother me a bit. Still, doesn't stand in the way of a good review.


----------



## Costas

Lucky she's not Welsh with a strong Welsh accent....


----------



## muzammil84

you guys might not like her accent and get annoyed but you forget about one very important detail... She speaks ENGLISH, in form it's been for ages and where it comes from. It's Americans who "deformed" the way it sounds.
No hate for american, australian, jamaican or south african, I am just pointing out the facts.
English isn't my first language. I lived in California for a bit so used to american accent, then moved to The UK(where I actually live) and american accent started annoying me more and more








it is what you get used to, no "english" is better or worse(except Scottish lol).


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> you guys might not like her accent and get annoyed but you forget about one very important detail... She speaks ENGLISH, in form it's been for ages and where it comes from. It's Americans who "deformed" the way it sounds.
> No hate for american, australian, jamaican or south african, I am just pointing out the facts.
> English isn't my first language. I lived in California for a bit so used to american accent, then moved to The UK(where I actually live) and american accent started annoying me more and more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is what you get used to, no "english" is better or worse(except Scottish lol).


Technically you're wrong, the American accent (supposedly) sounds how English people sounded when the Americas were discovered.

Personally I find most accents quite annoying/distracting, this includes my own accent (which only comes out when I say certain words or speak fast ect).

Back OT, what are the go to quick-disconnects these days? Would prefer ones with a bulkhead on one side, are the alphacool ones rated well?


----------



## ruffhi

I shouldn't have used 'accent' ... I can handle accents, everyone has one and they are all good ... its the 'f' instead of 'th' that kills me. One, Two, Free, etc.

Just moved to Boston, MA and knew there was a Bostonian accent ... just didn't hear it much ... until you get a plumber or electrician to do something in your house.

I guess you have all seen this ...


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Technically you're wrong, the American accent (supposedly) sounds how English people sounded when the Americas were discovered.


sorry, you're wrong on this one. British has never sounded like today's American. Irish, more likely but not British(esp southern british like London etc).


----------



## ruffhi

Accents are a funny thing. There are lots of different accents in England. Multiple versions in London itself. I have no proof for this but I think that the number of accents is strongly related to the transitory nature of populations. You get a population that is static and doesn't move around and you get accent drifts over miles (eg different villages in England). You get a young nation with high speed transport and you get very little accent drift (eg Australia), you get a large nation with some population movement and you get large, regional accents (eg USA).

The most frequent comment I get about my accent is ...
Q) _What part of England are you from?_
A) _That part of England in the southern hemisphere called Australia_

... or ...

'_You have a cute accent_'
To which, my response is ... '_so do you_'.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The most frequent comment I get about my accent is ...
> Q) _What part of England are you from?_
> A) _That part of England in the southern hemisphere called Australia_.


Haha awesome response







. Someone once thought years ago my accent was British and I had to correct them and declare it was a horrible blend of Britsh and predominantly Australian accents







.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I shouldn't have used 'accent' ... I can handle accents, everyone has one and they are all good ... its the 'f' instead of 'th' that kills me. One, Two, Free, etc.
> 
> Just moved to Boston, MA and knew there was a Bostonian accent ... just didn't hear it much ... until you get a plumber or electrician to do something in your house.
> 
> I guess you have all seen this ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just about fell over from that Picture. I needed that this morning. Thanks.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

For YouTube guys I like singularity computers. He had his own style and I would like to see him do things different sometimes but he is pretty good, even if his voice sometimes makes me tired. What's with people always saying American s our dumb?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For YouTube guys I like singularity computers. He had his own style and I would like to see him do things different sometimes but he is pretty good, even if his voice sometimes makes me tired. What's with people always saying American s our dumb?


Incorrect use of our?







JK I dunno, I get the same having a westcountry accent, everyone thinks we're farmers...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Incorrect use of our?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JK I dunno, I get the same having a westcountry accent, everyone thinks we're farmers...


Because you are all farmers....or murderers....

I have a fantastic East London accent......so everyone outside of london thinks im a gangster..


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because you are all farmers....or murderers....
> 
> I have a fantastic East London accent......so everyone outside of london thinks im a gangster..


All this talk about you tubers and now accents, mentioning "The kid from brooklyn" just seems fair and appropriate for some unknown reason.







He was entertaining. R.I.P.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> sorry, you're wrong on this one. British has never sounded like today's American. Irish, more likely but not British(esp southern british like London etc).


No he's not. Basically every bit of evidence that we've got points toward the current "American" accent being more similar to the "standard" English accent back in the 18th century. Non-rhotic speech (speaking without the hard "r," basically) only became big across the pond in 19th century. I recommend looking it up and reading a bit about it, it's rather fascinating, really.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Remember when some of the issues where 200 pages and mostly things to read. Rather then a pile of adds they are now? Hell, I remember seeing the early Quake 3 spread. It was practically a mag in the mag. The in game shots had the faces of John Carmack and the others on models. lol And lets not forget the epic CD and Coconut Monkey. My favorite CD environment was the back ally one where you went down into the seedy looking basement office. I miss those days.


I miss when magazines where like that. Think the only a few are still huge in pages. Like National Geographic, still a good chunk of reading there. I do like ImagineFX, especially their special editions which can clock in near or over 200 pages with maybe only 2 or 3 pages of ads.







Just the cost going to nail ya for sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I shouldn't have used 'accent' ... I can handle accents, everyone has one and they are all good ... its the 'f' instead of 'th' that kills me. One, Two, Free, etc.
> 
> Just moved to Boston, MA and knew there was a Bostonian accent ... just didn't hear it much ... until you get a plumber or electrician to do something in your house.
> 
> I guess you have all seen this ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lmao, yeah, Boston has some special ways to say stuff.







I really don't mind different accents. Only thing that annoyed me was when I was stuck in California for six years and people over there would hear my accent. Seems first thought in peoples' head on Southern accent is you are either a slow thinker or dumb. Yeah, they usually changed their mind when I could talk off their ear about computers or art at extreme fast speed with my accent.







Which wind up if I am super excited, I talk faster and faster to the point it almost impossible to understand me since my accent also gets stronger at the same time. Though, down here my accent by most Southerner's is consider odd and not deep. Probably comes from the fact my family is from several different parts of the US and I was exposed to my Uncle who is German and my step Granma who is Danish.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> No he's not. Basically every bit of evidence that we've got points toward the current "American" accent being more similar to the "standard" English accent back in the 18th century. Non-rhotic speech (speaking without the hard "r," basically) only became big across the pond in 19th century. I recommend looking it up and reading a bit about it, it's rather fascinating, really.


well I didn't mean "r" but more things like "a" sounding actually like A not E, "o" sonding like O not A etc.
It's hard to explain in writing but I hope you get my point


----------



## ruffhi

Other funny things I have noticed ...

1) How do you pronounce that stuff that comes out of the tap? Is it _Water_ or _Wader_?

2) How far is it from NYC to Chicago? Most Americans will answer '11 or 12 hours' ... which is actually how long it takes to drive ... not how far.


----------



## mus1mus

Isn't that, "woo-tah" or "wah-tah"?









En sam pahts ov tha woold, to talk with distinct English, you will get smirks from people thinking at the back of their heads you are speech impaired.

Say it, "woh-tirrrrr"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Based on one third of one vid, Lauren seemed to cover to item being reviewed fairly well. The pics of the stuff were very good and she walked you through the various items with some personal input. Her accent (ie _funderbolt_ instead of _thunderbolt_) was a bit annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> I played one of Lauren's case reviews for friends and they had the same gripe about her accent... no issue for me as I've got family in the UK and watch BBC shows so I'm used to the accent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

I simply don't get hating on that magnificent lady's accent. I find it smexy smexy. Course I would rather hear it in a darkened room







, but I've lived all over the country. From Hawaii to Philly in the North and the South.

I think the worst accent I've heard is Pigeon, it's spoken by Samoan and just about any ethnicity who live or have lived on the Islands. Not that it's bad but there, if you don't speak tha language, you're looked at as an outsider. I find myself reverting to it when I get near anyone who speaks it. Which thankfully is not all that often now. Because it's simply lazy English. Not that I am judging anyone for using it, but seriously "Wha da haps" can be understood simply by saying "What's up" or "How are you" or What's going on".

So generally speaking, hate on her dialect all you want but I'm a sucker for well spokeness. Regardless of locale.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Never take advice or tips from this idiot.


harsh hes not that bad









does seem abit obsessed/greedy with GPUs tho


----------



## gree

See another plus for written reviews, doesnt matter what accent you have.

I was actually refered to study jayz videos to get into watercooling, im guessing that was bad advice?


----------



## EMUracing

I much prefer written reviews to video. The data is laid out much cleaner and easy to interpret. As well as to return to when comparing products. Video reviews take much longer to extract the information conveyed, and of you return to it to revisit the data, you have to figure out what time the data was displayed.

Its hard to take YouTubers seriously, feels like there is a lot of fluff, and little content... Yet the video is 15mins long. Typically the only plus for videos is seeing the product from many different angles. I particularly like them for cases, and that's about it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yay 3D printer is back up and working great:


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> does seem abit obsessed/greedy with GPUs tho


Even since his early Tech Talk episodes years ago he's had viewers asking the majority of time about graphics cards so I'm guessing that's why GPU companies send so many graphics cards his way. He used to say his show should just be renamed to "GPU Talk" because of the number of questions he'd get on the topic.


----------



## Ironsmack

This is a long shot, but anyone ordering from Mcmaster Carr anytime soon?

If so, i was wondering if i could add my order to yours and able to ship it too me as well









I tried ordering from them last night and they only ship to Canada if its a business


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say I'd order from them, but they have a local shop here in Atlanta so I can physically go and pickup what I need


----------



## ShiftysBlade

I am so jealous of you right now. We don't have **** for places like that in NOVA/DC.:/ bahhhhh


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would say I'd order from them, but they have a local shop here in Atlanta so I can physically go and pickup what I need


Makes me appreciate that PDXLAN build you did last year even more Darth. Can't even imagine how you shipped that thing cross the country w/o incident.









~Ceadder


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> This is a long shot, but anyone ordering from Mcmaster Carr anytime soon?
> 
> If so, i was wondering if i could add my order to yours and able to ship it too me as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried ordering from them last night and they only ship to Canada if its a business


This might seem weird (and IDK how old you are) but if you have a local highschool that has a robotics team/club, ask them to bundle it into the next order. Just a suggestion


----------



## wiretap

Ship it to your work. I always do this if a place only takes business addresses for shipping.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Other funny things I have noticed ...
> 
> 1) How do you pronounce that stuff that comes out of the tap? Is it _Water_ or _Wader_?
> 
> 2) How far is it from NYC to Chicago? Most Americans will answer '11 or 12 hours' ... which is actually how long it takes to drive ... not how far.


Hmmm, good point on the distance thing. But yeah, most of the time if someone ask me a question like that I give the hours it takes to drive. To get the answer in miles or meters, probably best to ask like this, "How many miles/meters is it from NYC to Chicago?". That will get most likely get the distance answer you want.









Though be glad you got hours. Down here depending on area, you might get some answer like over yonder and past beyond that there hills.








Other fun thing, ask for a coke down here you get the question, "What type?".


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol wish that was mine at PDX but that was DarthBeavis' build

Looks like I'll be clearing out some of the clearance EK shtuff we have here at my work. Too bad I don't have a 980ti these backplates will work with let alone wish I had a 980ti vs my 970


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> *I much prefer written reviews to video. The data is laid out much cleaner* and easy to interpret. As well as to return to when comparing products. Video reviews take much longer to extract the information conveyed, and of you return to it to revisit the data, you have to figure out what time the data was displayed.
> 
> Its hard to take YouTubers seriously, feels like there is a lot of fluff, and little content... Yet the video is 15mins long. Typically the only plus for videos is seeing the product from many different angles. I particularly like them for cases, and that's about it.


Agreed. Although I am more of a visual learner. I don't mind reading (I have a pretty decent collection of historical 20th century military texts. YouTube is a great tool for me. I just ignore the opinion stuff as much as possible if it has little to do with the topic or common sense.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol wish that was mine at PDX but that was DarthBeavis' build
> 
> Looks like I'll be clearing out some of the clearance EK shtuff we have here at my work. Too bad I don't have a 980ti these backplates will work with let alone wish I had a 980ti vs my 970










Haha, apologies. Wong Darth. In my defense I was half asleep having just woke up before posting.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Jayztwopence....lol....

Fitting acrylic tube with a hammer.......lol....

You tube as a source of any information beyond Allah Akbar bomb films and Cat videos.......lol....

When you combine the two?

Magic.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Jayztwopence....lol....
> 
> Fitting acrylic tube with a hammer.......lol....
> 
> You tube as a source of any information beyond Allah Akbar bomb films and Cat videos.......lol....
> 
> When you combine the two?
> 
> Magic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

































That was some funny shiiiiiiioooohoot.









Now to watch it again on the TV, even though I am watching tech talk #108.









~Ceadder


----------



## hidethecookies

OK I've been testing today and I'm curious if my temps are good?
System specs
5820k @ 4.2ghz 1.2v-EK MX block w/ EVO solid copper top + J3 jet plate
290x lightning @ 1.25ghz +200mv core, 1650mhz +100mv vram-Bitspower FC block
2x420mm Phobya G-Changer rads w/ EK Furious Vardar FF4's in push
D5 @ 4400rpm EK X-Top & EK X-Res 250
TT Core X-9 case w/ panels off

Load temps are from running loop of Valley in Extreme HD for 25 min.
Ambient 25c
cpu idle ~29-30c load ~50-54c
gpu idle ~35c load ~49-52c
max water temp in res was 33c
Do these seem good or what? I might still have air in my rads since they are both top mount.

Oh yeah the cpu block used EK ecotherm and gpu block came with Ceramique 2 so thats what I used.


----------



## VSG

Seems right given how much heat you are pumping in the loop + usual component-loop delta temps. That 290x Lightning overvolted can be a power hog.

Speaking of Phobya rads, this combo of Phobya and EK has been performing quite decently for me:


----------



## hidethecookies

Yeah I love the Vardars they can go down to less than 600 rpm then max out at 2500 rpm. When running Valley oc'd it draws 530w+ from the wall with a 80+gold 1200w psu


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would say I'd order from them, but they have a local shop here in Atlanta so I can physically go and pickup what I need


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> I am so jealous of you right now. We don't have **** for places like that in NOVA/DC.:/ bahhhhh


Thanks for the help, but i found a friend who orders from them for work.

Just found my new BFF from now on ?


----------



## hidethecookies

If any one is looking for parts for the Corsair Hydro Asetek round block style AIO's send me a pm. I have mounting hardware, spare pumps/blocks, pump circuit boards, rads. I have no use for the stuff now went full custom awhile ago. I also have a g10 kraken mount in white too. Just cover shipping and whatever ya want is yours.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Made some of these today:


Glow in the dark too


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 
> Glow in the dark too


Just curious what kind of cad and cam software are you using for that 3D printer when you design and make things? SolidWorks, AutoCAD?


----------



## ivoryg37

What is the longest I can run a distilled water loop without any additive in a nickel copper loop? Drained my loop and didn't realize I was out of coolant but wanted to wait a little to build up my PPCs cart before ordering


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> What is the longest I can run a distilled water loop without any additive in a nickel copper loop? Drained my loop and didn't realize I was out of coolant but wanted to wait a little to build up my PPCs cart before ordering


long time. no need to worry


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Just curious what kind of cad and cam software are you using for that 3D printer when you design and make things? SolidWorks, AutoCAD?


I know you weren't asking me, but I run the 3D printing club at my college and I use Autodesk Inventor to do all of my modelling and exports, and MatterControl to interface with the controller on the printer.


----------



## Frestoinc

how can i join this club? already had a custom wc setup.


----------



## wermad

Post pics of your water setup (custom or cls).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> What is the longest I can run a distilled water loop without any additive in a nickel copper loop? Drained my loop and didn't realize I was out of coolant but wanted to wait a little to build up my PPCs cart before ordering
> 
> 
> 
> long time. no need to worry
Click to expand...

Depending on the location of the system(sunlight/no sunlight) I think 6 mos to a year is what I would recommend. Distilled is cheap enough to be had for next to nothing and I recommend a new bottle of it every drain/flush and refill.

"long time" is simply too vague for the reliable answer I believe he is looking for.







lol

I run distilled only and change out at around the 6mos mark unless something happens where I have to drain to replace or do maintenance if I cannot get a card out without having to remove a section.









Some instances( such as where your system is out of sunlight) you can drag it out until your OCD starts niggling you to refresh your coolant. Mine goes off at the 6mos mark.









~Ceadder


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> long time. no need to worry


I found some unused killcoils in my spare box. Should I use it? I heard silver isn't good with nickel waterblock. Especially without any anti corrosives, I have a EK nickel impact block and 970 GPU nickel block.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I found some unused killcoils in my spare box. Should I use it? I heard silver isn't good with nickel waterblock. Especially without any anti corrosives, I have a EK nickel impact block and 970 GPU nickel block.


Short aswer: no

Quote:


> Advanced Materials Department
> "Jožef Stefan" Institute, Ljubljana, Slovenia
> 42
> Recommendation:
> Corrosion can be avoided by the use of a low-conducting, anti-corrosion liquid (which,
> in principle, is also distilled or deionized water). It is recommended to exchange the liquid
> with a fresh one after a period of time to remove the possibly dissolved ions from the closed
> water-cooling system. The introduction of additional metals into the system (silver, etc.) or
> the use of ionic algaecides (copper sulfate, etc.) even in minor concentrations can trigger the
> corrosion processes. Avoid the use of acidic substances, especially when using copper metal.


https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf

Old but still worth a looking. use whatever ek recommends so you stay within warranty specs imho.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> long time. no need to worry
> 
> 
> 
> I found some unused killcoils in my spare box. Should I use it? I heard silver isn't good with nickel waterblock. Especially without any anti corrosives, I have a EK nickel impact block and 970 GPU nickel block.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't use one. I ran straight distilled with a Copper CPU and Nickel MB block with zero issues.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't use one. I ran straight distilled with a Copper CPU and Nickel MB block with zero issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I've done the same with no issues too.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I've done the same with no issues too.


Same here no problems yet!


----------



## ivoryg37

Thanks for the quick reply guys, going to fill my loop back up so I can be back in business.


----------



## wermad

Yuppers, I've been running only distilled for ~3 years, no issues


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well the combs work great, need to make them out of ABS filament since PLA is a tad too brittle


----------



## SteezyTN




----------



## DarthBaggins

Guess I need to snag a 980ti or Titan X now:

Couldn't pass up on the deal on the backplate (was on clearance at work- have a couple more I'm going to snag too)


----------



## bluedevil

Nabbed these for my Sponsored Build "Classified Demon".


----------



## PaYFrogCusoms

Hey, i want to share my builds with you


----------



## Bogga

Nice! Those pics of the phanteks evolv atx gives me hope of fitting my stuff. Will have a 360 60mm rad in the front, a 240 in the "ceiling" and was hoping to fit the reservoir between them


----------



## PaYFrogCusoms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Nice! Those pics of the phanteks evolv atx gives me hope of fitting my stuff. Will have a 360 60mm rad in the front, a 240 in the "ceiling" and was hoping to fit the reservoir between them


This is the Evolv mAtx. The Atx version ist still in Progress.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Nice! Those pics of the phanteks evolv atx gives me hope of fitting my stuff. Will have a 360 60mm rad in the front, a 240 in the "ceiling" and was hoping to fit the reservoir between them


Could you please remove or spoiler tag the images in your quote.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Could you please remove or spoiler tag the images in your quote.


My bad, using my phone atm so I missed it...


----------



## Costas

OK B Neg.... In all the years of dabbling with water cooling only now do I feel worthy of joining _the 'club'...._

Went from this:


To this...:


......................and now finally to this:











I may have even learned a few things along the journey....


----------



## Bogga

Gonna go change my underwear since I just stained them...

Awesome rig









Saving up for a caselabs, but the cost is massive here in Europe


----------



## muzammil84

Guys please help deciding on coolant. I am running Mayhems pastel ice white uv atm, ordered blue non stain dye and clear uv dye as I was gonna add it to my pastel white and make it really light and vivid blue but I start digging clear coolant more and more. so basically uv pastel light blue or uv clear kight blue? any sample pics would be highly appreciated.
Forgot to mention that everything in my rig is white atm.
here's a pic:


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Made some of these today:
> 
> 
> Glow in the dark too


Is it possible that you have saved that program and can send it to me? I happen to own 15 3D printers and really did not think that I could easily make cable combs!


----------



## DarthBaggins

That I do, going to print up fan grills today too


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> What is the longest I can run a distilled water loop without any additive in a nickel copper loop? Drained my loop and didn't realize I was out of coolant but wanted to wait a little to build up my PPCs cart before ordering


I started getting a growth after 4 months. Just sayin'


----------



## emsj86

I regret not going with 16mm tubing


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Is it possible that you have saved that program and can send it to me? I happen to own 15 3D printers and really did not think that I could easily make cable combs!


thingiverse.com


----------



## AreTheGod

Hey guys, my build isn't exactly finished but here is a pic, I'll be able to take other pic when I'll get back from vacation












I think i will change the tube that goes from the GPU to the CPU and also the location of my Darkside led strips (but i don't know exactly where?)

And sorry for the poor quality of the picture :/

PS : don't ask about the cable managment, I'm actually sleeving everything :c And I should also buy a dust filter .....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I found some unused killcoils in my spare box. Should I use it? I heard silver isn't good with nickel waterblock. Especially without any anti corrosives, I have a EK nickel impact block and 970 GPU nickel block.


Silver is fine with Nickel plating as long as the plating meets a 12 micron minimum thickness for corrosion resistance. The problem is not with the nickle,rather the underlying copper. The copper is leeched from under the plating by the silver via imperfections in the plating,leaving nothing for the nickle to 'grab',hence the flaking rather than pitting.

That said,there are better ways to make your loop bug-free,most coolants are mixed with a biocide and,regardless of what the others have said,its a worthwhile investment along with an anti corrosive. My SR2 went 4 years maintenance free beyond a rad dust out,never drained and 24/7 use. Algae isnt your real concern unless you have the rig by a window but there are other things that like a warm wet place....

Personally,for my own rigs,its DI and Nuke with an anti corro but you may want to consider your warranty with any plated product for watercooling,The only blocks I can say are bombproof for plating,in my experience,are Watercool and Aquacomputer but YMMV.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Made some of these today:
> 
> 
> Glow in the dark too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well the combs work great, need to make them out of ABS filament since PLA is a tad too brittle


Hey nice, they didn't turn out half bad!
When I did mine half of them actually warped and were unusable, did you have that problem or was that just me?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

I can print them in carbon fiber. That should be strong enough and blend in with the cables as well. We can also do fan shrouds! The world has opened up!!!







haha


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*


Does your Power Supply not have 2x 8 pin cables?


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> Speaking of Phobya rads, this combo of Phobya and EK has been performing quite decently for me:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


At first I thought that was an Xtreme200 with 4x92... I have an Xtreme200, and an Xtreme400 and was looking to try 92mm fans on another 200. But that looks like a 240x240 with 4x120... Would be hard to find cases that would fit easily without much modification. It does look tempting to try to build a system around though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Hey nice, they didn't turn out half bad!
> When I did mine half of them actually warped and were unusable, did you have that problem or was that just me?


There were 2 different slice files for different diameter cables. I used the smaller of the two types in this case, also warping sounds like an over heat issue or sticking to the base issue

The printer I want to get Lulzbot mini can print with cf as well, but has the option for copper/brass too


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Does your Power Supply not have 2x 8 pin cables?


Unfortunatly no, but I actually got another one, the Corsair HX1000i and I juste modify the cable from two 2x8 to two 8 pin


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> What is the longest I can run a distilled water loop without any additive in a nickel copper loop? Drained my loop and didn't realize I was out of coolant but wanted to wait a little to build up my PPCs cart before ordering
> 
> 
> 
> I started getting a growth after 4 months. Just sayin'
Click to expand...

In a space with sunlight?

I suspect so. I had my build in front of a window, but growth wasn't a factor since it was on the East side of the building and the blinds were always closed, so sunlight was not much of a factor in my experience.

When I was a kid, I remember a Biology class at my High School, had a fish tank with a Bass in it and it was algified due to being in the Sun for the bulk of each day as it was a North facing classroom and it sat directly under the window. That water was dark and the sides of the tank were algae green.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> In a space with sunlight?
> 
> I suspect so. I had my build in front of a window, but growth wasn't a factor since it was on the East side of the building and the blinds were always closed, so sunlight was not much of a factor in my experience.
> 
> When I was a kid, I remember a Biology class at my High School, had a fish tank with a Bass in it and it was algified due to being in the Sun for the bulk of each day as it was a North facing classroom and it sat directly under the window. That water was dark and the sides of the tank were algae green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Below the window that is facing west. But blinds are pulled most of the time, and the light it gets is not direct as the top of the case would be blocking that. It sits on the floor.

Edit: however, I do use the lighting in my case, which is white... I wonder if that's the culprit?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiretap*
> 
> Ship it to your work. I always do this if a place only takes business addresses for shipping.


And don't forget to occasionally bribe the shipping/receiving guys too for such favours. Mine get doughnuts or cotton candy (last time was cotton candy)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seems right given how much heat you are pumping in the loop + usual component-loop delta temps. That 290x Lightning overvolted can be a power hog.
> 
> Speaking of Phobya rads, this combo of Phobya and EK has been performing quite decently for me:


Interesting. Is it in your review queue by chance?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I found some unused killcoils in my spare box. Should I use it? I heard silver isn't good with nickel waterblock. Especially without any anti corrosives, I have a EK nickel impact block and 970 GPU nickel block.
> 
> 
> 
> Silver is fine with Nickel plating as long as the plating meets a 12 micron minimum thickness for corrosion resistance. The problem is not with the nickle,rather the underlying copper. The copper is leeched from under the plating by the silver via imperfections in the plating,leaving nothing for the nickle to 'grab',hence the flaking rather than pitting.
> 
> That said,there are better ways to make your loop bug-free,most coolants are mixed with a biocide and,regardless of what the others have said,its a worthwhile investment along with an anti corrosive. My SR2 went 4 years maintenance free beyond a rad dust out,never drained and 24/7 use. Algae isnt your real concern unless you have the rig by a window but there are other things that like a warm wet place....
> 
> Personally,for my own rigs,its DI and Nuke with an anti corro but you may want to consider your warranty with any plated product for watercooling,The only blocks I can say are bombproof for plating,in my experience,are Watercool and Aquacomputer but YMMV.
Click to expand...

one thing about swiftech, they use real chrome, they dont have these issues ime either
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> Speaking of Phobya rads, this combo of Phobya and EK has been performing quite decently for me:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At first I thought that was an Xtreme200 with 4x92... I have an Xtreme200, and an Xtreme400 and was looking to try 92mm fans on another 200. But that looks like a 240x240 with 4x120... Would be hard to find cases that would fit easily without much modification. It does look tempting to try to build a system around though.
Click to expand...

case labs
your welcome !


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Guys please help deciding on coolant. I am running Mayhems pastel ice white uv atm, ordered blue non stain dye and clear uv dye as I was gonna add it to my pastel white and make it really light and vivid blue but I start digging clear coolant more and more. so basically uv pastel light blue or uv clear kight blue? any sample pics would be highly appreciated.
> Forgot to mention that everything in my rig is white atm.
> here's a pic:


Personally I really dig The All White build. It's refreshing. Especially since all-black murdered out seems to be popular nowadays although I can't lie I do like that quite a bit too. Right now I'm debating on whether to go all white paint the black on the board or white and black and go with black cooolant with my Asus x99 Deluxe mobo. Don't know if either will look good honestly so I may end up compromising but I'll figure it out. Awesome build!


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> case labs
> your welcome !


True, can fit a house in one of those, but I would build my own case before I spend that much on a case... Not knocking them, they're stone of the best cases out there. If I'm going to spend big bucks, I want it to be exactly what I want, and fully customized to my build.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Interesting. Is it in your review queue by chance?


Already out as of a few hours ago.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> At first I thought that was an Xtreme200 with 4x92... I have an Xtreme200, and an Xtreme400 and was looking to try 92mm fans on another 200. But that looks like a 240x240 with 4x120... Would be hard to find cases that would fit easily without much modification. It does look tempting to try to build a system around though.


It's actually a 240x240 on one side and 280x280 on the other. The product name is Phobya Xtreme Quad 480/560 v.2


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Personally,for my own rigs,its DI and Nuke with an anti corro but you may want to consider your warranty with any plated product for watercooling,The only blocks I can say are bombproof for plating,in my experience,are Watercool and Aquacomputer but YMMV.


What anti corro did you use? I think I may go the DI and nuke route. I don't really have to worry about warranty since I already opened the water blocks to clean them. Had some dead spot where I couldn't flush out my pastel fluid so I had to open it to clean it. Was going to go back to the pastel route but I've been running distilled water and I think I like the clear look in the waterblocks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> In a space with sunlight?
> 
> I suspect so. I had my build in front of a window, but growth wasn't a factor since it was on the East side of the building and the blinds were always closed, so sunlight was not much of a factor in my experience.


In a room with one window but the blinds are always closed. Sun light does leak through though. PC is in the Northeast corner and the window is southwest corner


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Already out as of a few hours ago.
> It's actually a 240x240 on one side and 280x280 on the other. The product name is Phobya Xtreme Quad 480/560 v.2


Thanks for the review. Just finished reading it. One thing that irks me about many of the phobya xtreme radiators is the lack of additional fan mounting plates being included, and availability for them if you want to run push/pull.

It would also be nice for them to produce a mounting plate for 4x92mm fans for the 200... 9x92 for the quad may be overkill and costly due to the additional fan count ( lotion they tend to cost less than vardar/gt), but could be a viable option for lower airflow builds. While the vardar fans work well, there is a relatively large dead zone under the hub. The 92mm fans could promote more even airflow over the core.


----------



## VSG

Yeah, tell me about it! I did ask regarding fan grill availability so let's see.

As far as 9*92mm goes.. The market for these rads must be pretty low already so I don't even know how many would go with 9 92mm fans.


----------



## Frestoinc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Post pics of your water setup (custom or cls).


hmm... i've already posted my setup previously...


----------



## wermad

The op will eventually add you to the list


----------



## Frestoinc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The op will eventually add you to the list


ok thanks:thumb:


----------



## Benjiw

I did my thumbscrew mod to the D5 speed dial today and I'm mega happy with how it turned out, will post a tutorial at some point tomorrow, No more messing around trying to get the flat head screwdriver into the little hidden dial lol. It was never an issue on my dual bay res because its easy to see but on a tube res... what a pain.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> ok thanks:thumb:


Np









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I did my thumbscrew mod to the D5 speed dial today and I'm mega happy with how it turned out, will post a tutorial at some point tomorrow, No more messing around trying to get the flat head screwdriver into the little hidden dial lol. It was never an issue on my dual bay res because its easy to see but on a tube res... what a pain.


Does it work with a housing kit (aka "d5 dress up" kits)??? Mine are sitting vertically that I can sneak in a thumbscrew.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Np
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work with a housing kit (aka "d5 dress up" kits)??? Mine are sitting vertically that I can sneak in a thumbscrew.


I don't have a housing kit to test it on but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Thumbscrews have a pretty decent shoulder on them, enough so that it should clear the housing without modding the housing itself. Because I used a 6-32 threaded thumbscrew it pretty much made it's own thread to sit in so now I have spare superglue lol and the dial has such little resistance to it that it will never come undone.


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello guys

I want to buy this 4x Monsoon thermal fittings 

I want to use them 1x to test CPU in come water temperature. CPU out come water temperature . VGA In come VGA Out come and maybe 5st for Reservoir temperature.

What you think about this idea?

and Plz can some one advised Multi Thermal monitor? where im putt all of this 4x or maybe 5x thermal cables and its will show me thermal temperature ( I dont mean fan controller ) Only Thermal controller if its possible


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I did my thumbscrew mod to the D5 speed dial today and I'm mega happy with how it turned out, will post a tutorial at some point tomorrow, No more messing around trying to get the flat head screwdriver into the little hidden dial lol. It was never an issue on my dual bay res because its easy to see but on a tube res... what a pain.


 unhhhhhhhhh I am messing with it for the first time in a month and holy cannoli... I'll be doing this x2 for sure


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> unhhhhhhhhh I am messing with it for the first time in a month and holy cannoli... I'll be doing this x2 for sure


Haha then you're sure gunna love the information I post up tomorrow!! I will probably do this mod with all of my D5's now after learning you can even buy replacement speed knobs for them. Hell might buy a bag of them just in case. I used to use a flat head screw driver bit but I simply can't be bothered anymore, I only really adjust the speed when bleeding the loop of air etc once I'm happy I set it to the slowest speed and enjoy my life of silence.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> I want to buy this 4x Monsoon thermal fittings
> 
> I want to use them 1x to test CPU in come water temperature. CPU out come water temperature . VGA In come VGA Out come and maybe 5st for Reservoir temperature.
> 
> What you think about this idea?
> 
> and Plz can some one advised Multi Thermal monitor? where im putt all of this 4x or maybe 5x thermal cables and its will show me thermal temperature ( I dont mean fan controller ) Only Thermal controller if its possible


I think you'll find the temperature difference will be very small but it's worth a shot, I've got one xspc temp probe/fitting per loop and I like the little monitors they come with. You'd have to craft something to fit them all in for display but they're cheap and come in different colors and black and white

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Haha then you're sure gunna love the information I post up tomorrow!! I will probably do this mod with all of my D5's now after learning you can even buy replacement speed knobs for them. Hell might buy a bag of them just in case. I used to use a flat head screw driver bit but I simply can't be bothered anymore, I only really adjust the speed when bleeding the loop of air etc once I'm happy I set it to the slowest speed and enjoy my life of silence.


yeah I use a small bit too and it works but isn't as easy as I thought It'd be, my life with Aurora as a coolant has me doing more than average loop maintenance. Just partially drained my cpu loop again to kick everything back up and now have to rebleed.
Do you think I'll be able to get them in without removing the pumps from the case? That would definitely be a deal breaker until I do a full rebuild.
I guess I can wait until tomorrow to find out haha


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> I want to buy this 4x Monsoon thermal fittings
> 
> I want to use them 1x to test CPU in come water temperature. CPU out come water temperature . VGA In come VGA Out come and maybe 5st for Reservoir temperature.
> 
> What you think about this idea?
> 
> and Plz can some one advised Multi Thermal monitor? where im putt all of this 4x or maybe 5x thermal cables and its will show me thermal temperature ( I dont mean fan controller ) Only Thermal controller if its possible


I normally use temp gauges for air temps at rads and around blocks, then water temps I use my Aquacomputer PA Ultra 2 USB controller but plan on getting an Aquearo 5 LT ( the water temp sensor I have is on the out on my GPU block heading into my CPU/mobo monoblock)


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I think you'll find the temperature difference will be very small but it's worth a shot, I've got one xspc temp probe/fitting per loop and I like the little monitors they come with. You'd have to craft something to fit them all in for display but they're cheap and come in different colors and black and white
> yeah I use a small bit too and it works but isn't as easy as I thought It'd be, my life with Aurora as a coolant has me doing more than average loop maintenance. Just partially drained my cpu loop again to kick everything back up and now have to rebleed.
> Do you think I'll be able to get them in without removing the pumps from the case? That would definitely be a deal breaker until I do a full rebuild.
> I guess I can wait until tomorrow to find out haha


Personally... I would remove the pumps and remove the knob because a drill is needed for obvious reasons......

However....

If you're confident enough to drill blind then you could probably get away with it? The issue is this, the 6-32 thread needs a 3mm drill bit to create a hole for you to screw into, the downside to this is the knob isn't cylindrical past a certain point about 5mm down, so if you go off target too much you'll drill the top off and have to buy a spare.



EDIT:
WAIT!! What am I thinking, you CAN remove the cap from the pump bottom and pull out the knob to mod then put it back in lol.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Already out as of a few hours ago.
> It's actually a 240x240 on one side and 280x280 on the other. The product name is Phobya Xtreme Quad 480/560 v.2


Ah, good to know, and some interesting results. Guess it will be Nemesis GTX rads for me, even if the finish I fell in love with is being steadily discontinued.. But the new finish isn't that bad, just not as bumpy and lovely as the original.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="Bonjovi" url="/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/97300#post_25114064"]Hello guys

I want to buy this 4x Monsoon thermal fittings 

I want to use them 1x to test CPU in come water temperature. CPU out come water temperature . VGA In come VGA Out come and maybe 5st for Reservoir temperature.

What you think about this idea?

and Plz can some one advised Multi Thermal monitor? where im putt all of this 4x or maybe 5x thermal cables and its will show me thermal temperature ( I dont mean fan controller ) Only Thermal controller if its possible[/quote]



the temp will equalize and only be within 1-2 degree in any part of the loop so having that many sensors is not really beneficial. one sensor should be plenty and probably placed coming out of the rad would be best. I will be corrected by others if I am wrong.


----------



## inedenimadam

^ Sounds about right. My GPUs run within 1-2C of each other so the water doesn't really have a chance to heat up more than 1 or 2 C per block. I just put mt sensor in my reservoir, since that is where most of the water in my loop is, and doesn't stand to add any restriction in the loop at all. But you could pull a plug out of a rad without adding any mentionable restriction.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> I want to buy this 4x Monsoon thermal fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to use them 1x to test CPU in come water temperature. CPU out come water temperature . VGA In come VGA Out come and maybe 5st for Reservoir temperature.
> 
> What you think about this idea?
> 
> and Plz can some one advised Multi Thermal monitor? where im putt all of this 4x or maybe 5x thermal cables and its will show me thermal temperature ( I dont mean fan controller ) Only Thermal controller if its possible


Why not get one with display? E.g. like this XSPC temperature probe.


----------



## Mega Man

imo best bet if you want that many best bet is aquaero 5 lt ~~80, if you want to control fans at least get the additional accessory the heatsink OR the warterblock !

if you want to control more then 1 channel of pwm fans then get a aquaero 6 pro or xt !


----------



## Bonjovi

I have 2X RX 360 Radiator and i need to control temperaturebs between in them. or i dont need?

So if i use temperature controller under reservoir ( my reservoir have 1 row top 2 row front 2 row down and im using 1 top row + 2 front row . down rows are free) so if i put temperature fitting down of reservoir its will be enought?

you know i want to control water temperature good for full water system so only one temperature fitting will be enough?

Also guys i bought this SilverStone Technology All Black Sleeved 1-to-2 Sleeved PWM Fan Splitter Cable (CPF01)


I Have http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/6.html this fan controller



Max Output 30W*6

AND 12x fan. because of thet i bought it. i think 15w for per fan could be enought? SP 120MM Performance PWM 12x

or i buy this SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) ?


----------



## Mega Man

personal pref, you can easly deal with just 1, but it depends on what you want to do/how you want to control it


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personal pref, you can easly deal with just 1, but it depends on what you want to do/how you want to control it


my goal is control water temperature. you know i dont want to reach water some 55-60 c so if water start to grow up one sensor can be fix it on table for i saw? i mean will be different between 3-4x sensor vs 1 sensor for that situation


----------



## Mega Man

imo you would be best served with a air to water delta temp.

again i would recommend a aquaero ! ( probably a 6 pro or xt if it were me )


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo you would be best served with a air to water delta temp.
> 
> again i would recommend a aquaero ! ( probably a 6 pro or xt if it were me )


its so expensive


----------



## Bonjovi

Thanks for temperature guys

Quote:


> Also guys i bought this SilverStone Technology All Black Sleeved 1-to-2 Sleeved PWM Fan Splitter Cable (CPF01)
> 
> 
> I Have http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/6.html this fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> Max Output 30W*6
> 
> AND 12x fan. because of thet i bought it. i think 15w for per fan could be enought? SP 120MM Performance PWM 12x
> 
> or i buy this SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) ?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Personally I really dig The All White build. It's refreshing. Especially since all-black murdered out seems to be popular nowadays although I can't lie I do like that quite a bit too. Right now I'm debating on whether to go all white paint the black on the board or white and black and go with black cooolant with my Asus x99 Deluxe mobo. Don't know if either will look good honestly so I may end up compromising but I'll figure it out. Awesome build!


thank you.
That was my initial plan, to go all white and be a bit different







It's not easy tho as most of parts are only black even if they come in white it's so difficult to get hold on them. Only solution is a spray can








there's a few white builds around with bluish pastel and it looks very good. Couldn't find any white with clear blue(I don't want deep blue, would rather go for light blue, let's call it "tropical"







), it would make more sense with xspc photon res as that illuminated shaft looks dope but i've ordered EK res x3 250 in white already(should be with me today actually) so really i'm not sure what to do. Might just add a drop or two to my loop now before dismantling it and see how it looks but if I don't like it i'll loose about 1.5 liter of pastel white coolant.


----------



## kgtuning

Im sure its been asked and answered a million times but what is the temperature difference between two gpus in series vs parallel? Please and thank you.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Im sure its been asked and answered a million times but what is the temperature difference between two gpus in series vs parallel? Please and thank you.


In my experiance under normal operations, I've seen anything from 1 to 2 C to as much as 5 to 6 C. in ether configuration


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I just love that when I check for post in the club, What await are 30+ and it kinda gets my juices flowing.

TCO


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> There were 2 different slice files for different diameter cables. I used the smaller of the two types in this case, also warping sounds like an over heat issue or sticking to the base issue
> 
> The printer I want to get Lulzbot mini can print with cf as well, but has the option for copper/brass too


We have printrbot's. They have done PLA, ABS, Bronze, CF, Bamboo, Rubber, Glow in the Dark and a whole bunch of others that I cannot remember right now lol. Well worth the price.

Oh! Gradient PLA as well. Those ones are kinda weird


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> What anti corro did you use? I think I may go the DI and nuke route. I don't really have to worry about warranty since I already opened the water blocks to clean them. Had some dead spot where I couldn't flush out my pastel fluid so I had to open it to clean it. Was going to go back to the pastel route but I've been running distilled water and I think I like the clear look in the waterblocks
> In a room with one window but the blinds are always closed. Sun light does leak through though. PC is in the Northeast corner and the window is southwest corner


The sticker is only a warranty for watertightness,not the general warranty for quality. Your rights are unaffected.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo you would be best served with a air to water delta temp.
> 
> again i would recommend a aquaero ! ( probably a 6 pro or xt if it were me )


IMO you are better off controlling the actual water temp, because the temp of the chips is always relative to that and the amount of heat being output / thermal paste interfacing etc.. If you use water delta then when the ambient room temp gets hotter you get higher core temps, while if you use water temp the fans will just run faster to compensate.

My personal recommendation is to use 3pin fans with voltage control from an aquacomputer poweradjust 2/3 ultra, with a single temp sensor for water temperature targeting. Mine has fairly high speed fans with a poweradjust 2 ultra and a temp target of 30C.


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Also guys i bought this SilverStone Technology All Black Sleeved 1-to-2 Sleeved PWM Fan Splitter Cable (CPF01)
> 
> 
> I Have http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/6.html this fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> Max Output 30W*6
> 
> AND 12x fan. because of thet i bought it. i think 15w for per fan could be enought? SP 120MM Performance PWM 12x
> 
> or i buy this SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) ?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> IMO you are better off controlling the actual water temp, because the temp of the chips is always relative to that and the amount of heat being output / thermal paste interfacing etc.. If you use water delta then when the ambient room temp gets hotter you get higher core temps, while if you use water temp the fans will just run faster to compensate.
> 
> My personal recommendation is to use 3pin fans with voltage control from an aquacomputer poweradjust 2/3 ultra, with a single temp sensor for water temperature targeting. Mine has fairly high speed fans with a poweradjust 2 ultra and a temp target of 30C.


I've been trying to figure out a good way to do this without going with a full aquaero 6. I was asking elsewhere about this and was told the poweradjust wouldn't give me enough control. Hope does the temp target work exactly? I assume it tries to keep the temperature at the target point with higher or lower fan speeds. So you'd basically have the same water temps all the time right? That'd possibly be OK with me


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> IMO you are better off controlling the actual water temp, because the temp of the chips is always relative to that and the amount of heat being output / thermal paste interfacing etc.. If you use water delta then when the ambient room temp gets hotter you get higher core temps, while if you use water temp the fans will just run faster to compensate.
> 
> My personal recommendation is to use 3pin fans with voltage control from an aquacomputer poweradjust 2/3 ultra, with a single temp sensor for water temperature targeting. Mine has fairly high speed fans with a poweradjust 2 ultra and a temp target of 30C.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been trying to figure out a good way to do this without going with a full aquaero 6. I was asking elsewhere about this and was told the poweradjust wouldn't give me enough control. Hope does the temp target work exactly? I assume it tries to keep the temperature at the target point with higher or lower fan speeds. So you'd basically have the same water temps all the time right? That'd possibly be OK with me
Click to expand...

I dont know ASUS on the z97, but on x99 under hardware monitoring, you can change the source for each fan header. So you just plug your sensor into the motherboard and change the fan control manually (not by the fancy graph) and it just works. It is pretty easy on x99, it might be the same on Z97, but I cannot confirm this because I dont have an Asus z97 board.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









I was curious, and yes, your Z97-A has the T_SENSOR header, so just buy one a plug it in.


----------



## VeritronX

The poweradjust works well as a standalone cooling system fan controller, it has configurable min and max fan speeds that the temp control part will work within anywhere between 0 and 12v, can be set to hold the min fan speed or turn the fan off below the low point, and it supports full speed fan starting.. but that's optional so the fans can start at min speed if you want them to.

The controller will either hold a set % speed, target a specific rpm (iirc, been a while), or it can keep a target temperature using it's PID controller. This is different from what motherboard control will do, they ramp on a set curve with a fan speed for a given temperature, while the PID control uses the difference from the set temp and will adjust fan speeds dynamically to correct it.

This is better for overclocking because it allows you to have consistent load temps until the room temp is too high for the system to hold the target temperature. So you can go lan in your mates shed with no aircon and still have it all work, just louder =P


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Im sure its been asked and answered a million times but what is the temperature difference between two gpus in series vs parallel? Please and thank you.


None in Chessboard. Both gpus run at 1 C difference no matter if GPU loop is serial or parallel. Right now is running parallel because I like the visual and like the overall flow been able to reach 1.7 GPM instead of ~1.2 GPM.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I've been trying to figure out a good way to do this without going with a full aquaero 6. I was asking elsewhere about this and was told the poweradjust wouldn't give me enough control. Hope does the temp target work exactly? I assume it tries to keep the temperature at the target point with higher or lower fan speeds. So you'd basically have the same water temps all the time right? That'd possibly be OK with me


Dont overlook the 5LT. I think its the best best for the buck autonomous controller.

Im controlling my system (actually 2 PC's) with it. System one and two is controlling 9 and 16 fans and using Water to Air delta temps to control the fans.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's why I'm getting one for my M8 rig, definitely the best budget Aquearo out there

Having fun with the printer at work:


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys, I need a cheap fan controller capable of powering ~ 4 fans, any recommendations?


----------



## Benjiw

Got a pic of my D5 thumbscrew mod.











I have written a tutorial/guide here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1598816/benjis-d5-thumbscrew-mod


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Got a pic of my D5 thumbscrew mod.


I've read your posts on making this mod, and I think it was a great idea.
Looks good in the photo, so much nicer than using a screwdriver on the plastic adjuster.
Rep+


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> None in Chessboard. Both gpus run at 1 C difference no matter if GPU loop is serial or parallel. Right now is running parallel because I like the visual and like the overall flow been able to reach 1.7 GPM instead of ~1.2 GPM.


Interesting... Thanks bud! Definitely starting to worry about flowrates once I get Ram, Vrm and board blocks installed.


----------



## digitalbirth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys, I need a cheap fan controller capable of powering ~ 4 fans, any recommendations?


The NZXT grid+v2. It's 30 bucks, and has 6 fan headers for a total of 12 fans.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalbirth*
> 
> The NZXT grid+v2. It's 30 bucks, and has 6 fan headers for a total of 12 fans.


no dude even cheaper than that


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I've read your posts on making this mod, and I think it was a great idea.
> Looks good in the photo, so much nicer than using a screwdriver on the plastic adjuster.
> Rep+


Thanks! I hope it helps more people I'm still shocked no one had done it prior to me, if you want to read the method I used I wrote the whole thing here though it is 1am at the moment and I'm tired. I'll be using the post to do my 2nd pump and take loads of images to add to said post to help others.

The post can be found here.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1598816/benjis-d5-thumbscrew-mod


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's why I'm getting one for my M8 rig, definitely the best budget Aquearo out there
> 
> Having fun with the printer at work:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


.....I so want a 3D printer. I would make myself a whole bunch of dragon figurines.







Or pokemon. I'm a sucker for dragons. And I mean I'm a sucker for dragons, just bought a pokemon card set just for the mega rayquaza figure that was in it. Though, I do like Bender.







Hmmm, what about a figurine of Gir from Invader Zim.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> no dude even cheaper than that


I got one of these not so long ago, haven't used it yet but it's pretty cheap?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/electrical-case-accessories/phobya-4pin-pwm-to-6x-4pin-fan-splitter-pcb.html

They do a 4 fan version too, I bought the 8 fan version.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I got one of these not so long ago, haven't used it yet but it's pretty cheap?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/electrical-case-accessories/phobya-4pin-pwm-to-6x-4pin-fan-splitter-pcb.html
> 
> They do a 4 fan version too, I bought the 8 fan version.


Wasn't there someone in this thread that had one of those that caught fire or shorted something out due to shoddy quality. Not entirely sure, but I do seem to remember something like that.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> None in Chessboard. Both gpus run at 1 C difference no matter if GPU loop is serial or parallel. Right now is running parallel because I like the visual and like the overall flow been able to reach 1.7 GPM instead of ~1.2 GPM.


Wowzers. I just took out my 360 rad, and with two pumps at 100%, I can only get 0.89GPM. I seriously think my issue is the Nemesis GTS 560.


----------



## VSG

That rad and your blocks and everything else in the loop. Remember that restriction adds up. That still seems excessively low though.

Also,
Quote:


> Performance-PCs.com and it staff would like to wish all our customers and their families a Happy upcoming Mothers Day on Sunday May 8th! Please enjoy a holiday discount off selected products on our website!
> 
> Tell Mom to enter during checkout:
> 
> Spend $50 get 8% off: "MOTHER16-8"
> Spend $250, get 9% off: "MOTHER16-9"
> Spend $500, get 10% off: "MOTHER16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from April 29th through May 8th 2016. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> None in Chessboard. Both gpus run at 1 C difference no matter if GPU loop is serial or parallel. Right now is running parallel because I like the visual and like the overall flow been able to reach 1.7 GPM instead of ~1.2 GPM.


Wait a minute, had 0.5 GPM difference running Serial?

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> .....I so want a 3D printer. I would make myself a whole bunch of dragon figurines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or pokemon. I'm a sucker for dragons. And I mean I'm a sucker for dragons, just bought a pokemon card set just for the mega rayquaza figure that was in it. Though, I do like Bender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, what about a figurine of Gir from Invader Zim.


I think I can make something up lol

Made these today as well, a customer complained about the Buddha Bender/Batman/& Darth Vaders I made so the Bender was the last I was allowed to create


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Wasn't there someone in this thread that had one of those that caught fire or shorted something out due to shoddy quality. Not entirely sure, but I do seem to remember something like that.


Not sure, will keep an eye on it when I install it, it won't be inside my PC but on my external rad in a cage. would be interested to see the post if you find it though? does NZXT not make a similar product?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I dont know ASUS on the z97, but on x99 under hardware monitoring, you can change the source for each fan header. So you just plug your sensor into the motherboard and change the fan control manually (not by the fancy graph) and it just works. It is pretty easy on x99, it might be the same on Z97, but I cannot confirm this because I dont have an Asus z97 board.
> I was curious, and yes, your Z97-A has the T_SENSOR header, so just buy one a plug it in.


Ahh I haven't updated my rig info since my z97-a died, sorry about that. I was looking for the temp header on my EVGA z97 classified, after searching the board and online it doesn't seem that it it has one... which sucks. I seriously miss my z97-a for its great fan/temperature controls, thinking about selling this classy and going back to asus
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> The poweradjust works well as a standalone cooling system fan controller, it has configurable min and max fan speeds that the temp control part will work within anywhere between 0 and 12v, can be set to hold the min fan speed or turn the fan off below the low point, and it supports full speed fan starting.. but that's optional so the fans can start at min speed if you want them to.
> The controller will either hold a set % speed, target a specific rpm (iirc, been a while), or it can keep a target temperature using it's PID controller. This is different from what motherboard control will do, they ramp on a set curve with a fan speed for a given temperature, while the PID control uses the difference from the set temp and will adjust fan speeds dynamically to correct it.
> This is better for overclocking because it allows you to have consistent load temps until the room temp is too high for the system to hold the target temperature. So you can go lan in your mates shed with no aircon and still have it all work, just louder =P


That actually does sound pretty good, only problem is that I have a couple different models of fans and 2 different loops so as far as I can tell I'd need two of them. I am definitely thinking I'll use set point on whatever one I get though

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Dont overlook the 5LT. I think its the best best for the buck autonomous controller.
> 
> Im controlling my system (actually 2 PC's) with it. System one and two is controlling 9 and 16 fans and using Water to Air delta temps to control the fans.


I think I'll look into the 5 or maybe 6 if I decide I need more PWM, unless the 5lt can do more than the one channel and I'm missing something







I don't really need the screen at all, although it could be nice


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wait a minute, had 0.5 GPM difference running Serial?
> 
> TCO


Yeh 0.5 GPM sounds excessive... however not sure if anyone has sat down and done a formal test between running serial/parallel as far as overall flow figures are concerned for a typical GPU blocks.

Most GPU blocks are relatively low restriction I would have thought except maybe for some Aquacomputer models.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wait a minute, had 0.5 GPM difference running Serial?
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yeh 0.5 GPM sounds excessive... however not sure if anyone has sat down and done a formal test between running serial/parallel as far as overall flow figures are concerned for a typical GPU blocks.
> 
> Most GPU blocks are relatively low restriction I would have thought except maybe for some Aquacomputer models.


Yes 0.5 gpm difference. I known for a fact because chessboard was serial first. Oh wait...Apples to oranges comparison I take that back... Blocks were changed too. Titan original blocks first (in serial) and now titan x blocks (in parallel) which are less restrictive compared to the original ones.


----------



## Eagle1337

Here's some totally not amazing shots of my setup.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not sure, will keep an eye on it when I install it, it won't be inside my PC but on my external rad in a cage. would be interested to see the post if you find it though? does NZXT not make a similar product?


There's the original NZXT Grid, which I'm currently using, but its a 3-pin voltage only hub.

If I were to get a PWM hub, I'd be more inclined to go for Swiftech's or Silverstone's.


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Also guys i bought this SilverStone Technology All Black Sleeved 1-to-2 Sleeved PWM Fan Splitter Cable (CPF01)
> 
> 
> I Have http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/6.html this fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> Max Output 30W*6
> 
> AND 12x fan. because of thet i bought it. i think 15w for per fan could be enought? SP 120MM Performance PWM 12x
> 
> or i buy this SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) ?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Apples to oranges comparison I take that back... Blocks were changed too.


OK that would explain the discrepancy...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes 0.5 gpm difference. I known for a fact because chessboard was serial first. Oh wait...Apples to oranges comparison I take that back... Blocks were changed too. Titan original blocks first (in serial) and now titan x blocks (in parallel) which are less restrictive compared to the original ones.


Not that I would consider myself any kind of expert of anything in the forums, but that 0.5GPM difference did sound like a tad to much. Glad that the block change occured to you!

Still a substantial difference nonetheless. Good stuff.

TCO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yeh 0.5 GPM sounds excessive... however not sure if anyone has sat down and done a formal test between running serial/parallel as far as overall flow figures are concerned for a typical GPU blocks.
> 
> Most GPU blocks are relatively low restriction I would have thought except maybe for some Aquacomputer models.


Going back a few generations in blocks, The restriction curves on these 2 blocks may help may help.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Started a Build Log, Join up if you Dare









Ze Popped Cherry

TCO


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Going back a few generations in blocks, The restriction curves on these 2 blocks may help may help.


Thanks f_f...

So extrapolating from all the results we can confidently state that running in Serial Vs Parallel can make a substantial difference to restriction levels.

Yet temp wise it makes bugger all difference - providing flow rate is adequate.


----------



## kgtuning

Im definitely switching to parallel gpus, just need a few fittings and acrylic tubing to make the change over.


----------



## Benjiw

Anyone else had issues with primochill acrylic tubing not fitting in certain fittings? I have Monsoon hardline free centre fittings and the tube will not go into the acrylic collar at all. Same size tubing as my monsoon tubing apparently but when I put them side by side the monsoon tube is smaller by about 0.25mm... Is this another case of imperial vs metric tube and fittings? If so I'm already very tired of this and might snap all this tubing, bin it and go back to soft tubing.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Anyone else had issues with primochill acrylic tubing not fitting in certain fittings? I have Monsoon hardline free centre fittings and the tube will not go into the acrylic collar at all. Same size tubing as my monsoon tubing apparently but when I put them side by side the monsoon tube is smaller by about 0.25mm... Is this another case of imperial vs metric tube and fittings? If so I'm already very tired of this and might snap all this tubing, bin it and go back to soft tubing.


I think boxgods said his tubing was slightly smaller in OD to accommodate the lock collars better.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Anyone else had issues with primochill acrylic tubing not fitting in certain fittings? I have Monsoon hardline free centre fittings and the tube will not go into the acrylic collar at all. Same size tubing as my monsoon tubing apparently but when I put them side by side the monsoon tube is smaller by about 0.25mm... Is this another case of imperial vs metric tube and fittings? If so I'm already very tired of this and might snap all this tubing, bin it and go back to soft tubing.


I've heard about that problem from few ppl. Didn't wanna risk myself so went for 14mm Barrow fittings and PETG tubing from Barrow and XSPC. Both fit perfectly without any issues, no leaks. I love Barrow for 3 orings(and the fourth spare one!).
Loop is finished now, stil got some work on acrylic side window to be done and few minor changes.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I've heard about that problem from few ppl. Didn't wanna risk myself so went for 14mm Barrow fittings and PETG tubing from Barrow and XSPC. Both fit perfectly without any issues, no leaks. I love Barrow for 3 orings(and the fourth spare one!).
> Loop is finished now, stil got some work on acrylic side window to be done and few minor changes.


The blue looks great man! Glad to see the Barrows fittings and XSPC tubing worked out as well.


----------



## 0ldChicken

While we're on about it, I'm using 14mm xspc hard-line compression fittings (love em' by the way!!) and Bitspower 14mm tubing, fits great, just like xspc's 14mm tubing does.


----------



## mechanic2

My name is Richard. I am building my new computer in two Thermaltake Core X-9 cases. I am calling mine the SuperComputer. It is based around an AsRock EP2C612WS motherboard two
Intel i7, 2603, 1.6 GHz processors, 32 GB of Crucial DDR4, 2133 MHz ram. This will eventually be 128 GB. It is powered by two Silver Stone Strider Power Supplies. One is a ST-1500 and the other is a ST-850. The big one powers the MB, CPUs, Ram, and expansion devices except for the graphics cards. The little one will power the GPUs and the liquid cooling components. Right now it has a FirePro W5000 2GB graphics card. This will eventually be replaced by two EVGA GeForce GTX-980 4 GB cards. I have a Haupauge TV card, USB 3 expansion card, an Adaptec U320 SCSI card. I will eventually add a second one. I am also going to add a SATA expansion card and a Cyclone 7 slot PCIe expansion board. I am using Win 8.1 Pro for the OS.
The boot drive is a 128GB SSD. There are 10 HDDs adding up to a little over 8 TB in space. There will be ten more and this will add another 20 TB of space. Some of that will be used in a Linux dual boot setup. 100 GB is allocated for a Swap drive. There are separate drives for Applications, Records, Games, Pictures, Music, and other OSes. There is a DVD Reader/Writer. A cassette player called the PlusDeck and a multi-format card reader. The power supplies, radiator, pump, reservoir, and the card reader are mounted in the lower case. The MB, expansion cards, this will change after I add the Cyclone backplane, DVD player, PlusDeck, Aquacomputer Aquaero 6, and the HDDs are in the upper case. This has entailed building custom cables as the stock cables aren't long enough.
I have known about liquid cooling for many years but this is my first try at liquid cooling a system. I am using the AquaComputer Aquaero 6 XT for the controller. I have also installed the Real Time Clock, the passive heat sink, and the liquid block to it. I have an AC D-5 AquaBus/USB Pump and an AC AquaLis AB/USB 880 mL Reservoir. This is the CPU Loop. There will be at least one and maybe two more loops with the same pump and reservoir combination for each loop. There is an Alphacool 240mm NexXxoS Monsta Radiator. Right now I am only cooling the CPUs, the Aquaero, and two hard drives. As I add more liquid blocks I will add more radiators. All of them will be Monstas. I am using the AC AquaDrive HDD block to cool the drives. There will eventually be 9 more cooling a total of 20 drives. I am using two WaterCool HeatKiller IV Acryl blocks on the CPUs. The coolant is AC Double Protect Ultra Clear. I am going to dye it UV blue after I finish the loop. I will also be cooling the
SB/NB which is actually an Intel 612 chip, the VRMs, the memory, and some more HDDs on this loop. The second loop will be cooling the GPUs and some of the HDDs. I might add a third loop and put all of the HDDs on it. I don't know as of right now. The primary tubing is 16/12mm Alphacool Plexi clear. The tubing going to the Aquaero and the HDDs is 12/8mm Alphacool Plexi clear. The fittings are Alphacool, Darkside, and Barrow. I am using Phobya radiator anti-vibration mounting kits and filters. I have also added two NZXT internal USB hubs. I am using AC AquaSuite 2016-4. I am also using the 64 bit version of HW-Info.
I built a custom upper radiator mount and had it powder coated blue. I am thinking of flat packing my cases and having certain internal pieces coated in the same blue color. Of course this will entail a complete tear down and rebuild from the ground up. I was shown how to add windows to the vented side covers and I like it.
I am a retired/disabled Master Automobile Technician with over 35 years of experience. I have also done custom fabrication work for decades. I owned a custom built 500 HP, dual rotor, ****el powered Mazda RX-3 hot rod for over ten years. I built this car from the ground up. A lot of friends helped me with this. I was an Electronics Technician in the AF. I program in BASIC and C. I dabble in Assembly. I am learning PICs and Arduinos. I have been programming computers since the 70s and I have owned and repaired computers since the mid 80s. I am a Model Railroader going back before I was a teenager. I have traveled all over the US. I have also gone to Mexico and Canada.
All opinions and feedback is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
rich!

P.S. Here are some pictures:

This is my first Core X9 case. I have installed the motherboard. I am working on the cables that go to the HDDs. I am also learning how this case is laid out. The HDDS are mounted in cages that are installed below the MB tray. I haven't received the air coolers for the CPUs.


Here is the front of the case. That 200 mm fan is going to be replaced with two 120 mm PWM fans. The upper bay will hold the DVD drive, PlusDeck, and the Aquaero in that order.


Here is a good view of the MB. I haven't installed the CPUs. I don't have the air coolers.


This is a view of the HDD cage and the HDD carrier. These are eventually going to be replaced by a completely different HDD layout.


The DVD drive is installed. The wiring is going to the control panel. There are four USB 3 connectors but the MB only supports two. So I will be adding a USB 3 expansion card.


These are the top radiator and fan supports. I am going to replace these with a custom built support panel.


I now have the second case. The MB is in the lower case but I am going to move it to the upper case. Actually I will just put the bottom case on top of the upper case. The silver PS is just plugging up a hole until I receive the second Strider supply.


Here the upper radiator and fan support is in place.


I have switched the cases around. You can see some custom ports that I have added. There is a second serial port and two USB 2 ports. The small round port goes to the FirePro graphics card. Those are some of my backup tapes and you can see my Pioneer phonograph in the back ground.


I am now doing the layup for the new upper radiator and fan support.


The support is ready to go to be powder coated.


This bracket goes over the top of a PS and under the MB tray. I have drilled a series of holes that will allow me to mount 6 SSDs on it. That SSD is my boot drive for Win8.1.


These fan mounts can be used in two different places. Right now this mount will go on the bottom of the upper case. The HDD cage goes on top of this fan mount. The fans are setup to blow cooling air over the HDDs. I had to modify the mounts as the fans would not sit down flat on them. They can also be installed standing on their side on the side and bottom of the case. This allows radiators to be mounted standing on their sides.


My liquid cooling parts have arrived from ModMyMods. Yes, this is a plug for them. They have been great in providing me with support and help. AquaComputers have also provided lots of support and help. I really like both companies.


I am in the process of sorting and inventorying the parts. I am also trying to decide where to start. There is a lot to do.


This shows some of my test equipment that I use when I am repairing something or doing experiments. You can also see my print server/audio device in the back ground. The cat back there is named Spider. She is now about 12 or 13 years old. You can see a dual cassette player to her left. There is a HP Deskjet 990c sitting on top of the player. To her right is a HP Officejet Pro 6830 AIW printer, to the right of the AIW is a HP 1100 Laserjet, out of view, and to the right of the LJ is a Panasonic KX-P1124i dot matrix printer.


This is Stripes. She is about 6 now and she is helping me inventory the parts.


I have assembled the reservoir, the Aqualis, and the D-5 pump. These are all AquaComputer parts. They are also smart parts as the pump and the Aqualis have sensors and control circuitry built in to them They can be connected by USB, an Aquabus, or both at the same time. Then they can be controlled by the AquaSuite software package and if you have an Aquaero installed it can also control them. I have installed the heat sink and a liquid block to the back of the Aquaero 6XT.


This is a shot of the Strider 850 PS. The Strider 1500 is still in the upper case. I will move it to the lower case when I am ready to build the custom cables.


I have installed the 240 mm radiator and the two 120 mm PWM fans in the lower case.


I have mounted a PowerAdjust controller to a 5.25 drive bay mount. The Aquaero which is in front of the mount will also be installed to this mount.


I have now mounted the Aquaero. The mount has had holes drilled in it so that I can install 6 PAs or 4 PAs and another Aquaero such as the 5LT. I wish AC would come out with an AE 6LT. The 5 has one PW channel and 3 Analog channels for controlling fans or pumps. The 6 has 4 channels also but they can be setup for either PW control or Analog control. I prefer PWM as there is less heat and stress.


I am experimenting with how to install the HDDs for liquid cooling. These are just extra drives that I have laying around. I am using them to do a mock up.


In the upper case is the DVD drive and the PlusDeck in that order. I have received and installed the air coolers on the CPUs. Below the MB are three drives. Two of them are installed on a liquid block. They are my Records drives. The third is my Amiga drive. I don't have everything that I need to finish hooking up the liquid cooling components. In the bottom case you can see both the ST850 and the ST1500 PSs. The wiring has been extended to reach from the supplies up to the MB and drives. I have moved the control panel from the right side of the case to the left. You may wonder why I use the term liquid cooling and not the term water cooling. My system will never be run on just plain water. It will always have a high grade coolant in it, So I use the term liquid cooling as I feel that that is more accurate.


I have the upper radiator mount back from being powder coated. What do you folks think of the color?


I have installed the fans that were mounted on the other types of mounts. I am waiting on a couple more fan filters. I will get them and the rest of the parts that I need to finish this part of the build in about 3 or 4 days. As funding becomes available I will continue to expand the system.


I have removed the upper case and it is sitting upside down behind the lower case. I did this to have easier access to the lower case. I have to cut several holes in the case for the drain system, to pass the coolant lines from the lower case to the upper case, and to make it easier to install or remove wiring from the D5-Pump. There is a problem here. Can anyone spot what is wrong?


Here is a close up of the pump, the Aqualis, and the wiring. This gives a better picture of what I have done wrong. It took me a bit to find and correct the problem.


A close up of the two power supplies. The big supply will blow up on me. I have to send it back to SilverStone. The 850 is the primary supply right now and I pulled the 750 out of my Tyan, Opetron, XP system to use in place of the 850.


This is Stripes. She is doing quality checks. As you can see those parts are disappearing.


I have moved the Records drives to the front. This is their permanent location. You can see the tubing going to the liquid block. I moved the Amiga drive to a slightly different location but it won't remain there. The Apps drive is located underneath the MB tray right now. You can see the wiring going to it. When I get some more liquid blocks I will be moving it.


You can see the cooling lines going to the CPUs.


It is alive.










Stripes likes to watch the printers as they are working.


I'm working on the sleeving and the wiring.


Here is another view. The previous picture was of the harness that goes to the MB and the drives. In this picture I am in the process of adding the wiring that will supply power to the GPUs. Wiring that goes to the MB and GPUs will be sleeved in blue. The wiring going to the drives and accessories is done in black.


If I flat pack the cases it will be so that I can have the internal components and the support rails powder coated in the same blue as the upper radiator mount. What do you folks think?
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> To join this club simply post pics of your COMPLETE rig in THIS THREAD


Just sayin.


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
So am I a member now that I posted info about my build and pictures about it?
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> So am I a member now that I posted info about my build and pictures about it?
> Thanks,
> rich!


These guys used to make everyone get jumped in but that might be over now not sure









Welcome!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> So am I a member now that I posted info about my build and pictures about it?
> Thanks,
> rich!
> 
> 
> 
> These guys used to make everyone get jumped in but that might be over now not sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome!
Click to expand...

Jump in party is tonite at midnight homies.









~Ceadder


----------



## BWAS1000

Xbox 360 - Jump In.


----------



## Domler

Hey guys. Started my first build log. SMA8, 5930k, Dual Titan X, if anyone wants in.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1598895/project-irresponsible-5930k-dual-titan-x-sma8-and-all-the-fixings


----------



## SteezyTN

My iPhone doesn't do this any justice in the dark. But my build is all complete.



I took off the two fans to refill when it gets low, so when it's done bleeding, I'll put the fans back on.

Also, my loop as an extremely low flow rate. With two D5's at 100%, I only achieve 0.89 GPM. I run them at 3000 RPM each to keep it a little quieter, and I'm currently only getting 0.44 GPM. I haven't tested it yet, but I believe it's the 560 GTS I'm using. When I do some maintanance later, I'll reroute the tubing to bypass the 560 GTS and see how flow is.

But I'm thinking of grabbing an SR2 560 to get my flow going.

Specs:
4770k
Maximus VI Hero
GTX Titan X SC
16GB corsair vengeance pro 1866
EVGA 850 P2
RX480 (SP120 Quiets)
RX240 (SP120 Quiets)
560GTS (EK Vardar 140ER's)

For now I'm leaving the build as it is. Too busy with school to work on it anymore. But like I said, I'll eventually swap the 560 GTS with an SR2


----------



## mechanic2

SteezyTN,
I am sure that there is problem here. I have a D-5 and I believe that I am moving about 105 GPH or about 1.75 GPM. I say believe because this is based on the calculations done by the pump. This value is with my pump running right at 5000 RPM. This pump is rated at a maximum of about 260 GPH but this is on 24 Volts and that would be at a much higher RPM. I hope that this helps.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My iPhone doesn't do this any justice in the dark. But my build is all complete.
> 
> 
> 
> I took off the two fans to refill when it gets low, so when it's done bleeding, I'll put the fans back on.
> 
> Also, my loop as an extremely low flow rate. With two D5's at 100%, I only achieve 0.89 GPM. I run them at 3000 RPM each to keep it a little quieter, and I'm currently only getting 0.44 GPM. I haven't tested it yet, but I believe it's the 560 GTS I'm using. When I do some maintanance later, I'll reroute the tubing to bypass the 560 GTS and see how flow is.
> 
> But I'm thinking of grabbing an SR2 560 to get my flow going.
> 
> Specs:
> 4770k
> Maximus VI Hero
> GTX Titan X SC
> 16GB corsair vengeance pro 1866
> EVGA 850 P2
> RX480 (SP120 Quiets)
> RX240 (SP120 Quiets)
> 560GTS (EK Vardar 140ER's)
> 
> For now I'm leaving the build as it is. Too busy with school to work on it anymore. But like I said, I'll eventually swap the 560 GTS with an SR2


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> SteezyTN,
> I am sure that there is problem here. I have a D-5 and I believe that I am moving about 105 GPH or about 1.75 GPM. I say believe because this is based on the calculations done by the pump. This value is with my pump running right at 5000 RPM. This pump is rated at a maximum of about 260 GPH but this is on 24 Volts and that would be at a much higher RPM. I hope that this helps.
> Thanks,
> rich!


How many rads and restriction do you have?


----------



## mechanic2

SteezTN,
I have two CPU blocks and one 240 mm Monsta radiator.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> SteezTN,
> I have two CPU blocks and one 240 mm Monsta radiator.
> Thanks,
> rich!


That's why your flow is so high. I have one CPU block, one GPU block, RX480, RX240, and a 560 GTS. The GTS is super restrictive.


----------



## mechanic2

SteezyTn,
Is the GTX 560 a radiator. If so a lot more radiator area then you need. The 480 mm radiator will cool everything that you have. Are your D-5s in series or parallel? Even though I am new to liquid cooling computers I am an old hand at liquid cooling automobiles. The physics are the same. Just the proportions are different.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> SteezyTn,
> Is the GTX 560 a radiator. If so a lot more radiator area then you need. The 480 mm radiator will cool everything that you have. Are your D-5s in series or parallel? Even though I am new to liquid cooling computers I am an old hand at liquid cooling automobiles. The physics are the same. Just the proportions are different.
> Thanks,
> rich!


I understand what you're saying, and I know I have a enough rad space. I'm just saying how restrictive the GTS 560 is. And my pumps are currently in series and different parts of the loop. It also didn't change anything when they were right next to each other previously.

I've had this topic in here a few times, so I don't want it to go on again. I just wanted to say that I was thinking of getting an SR-560 to replace the GTS 560


----------



## mechanic2

SteezyTN,
Are your pumps hooked up in series or parallel?
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> SteezyTN,
> I am sure that there is problem here. I have a D-5 and I believe that I am moving about 105 GPH or about 1.75 GPM. I say believe because this is based on the calculations done by the pump. This value is with my pump running right at 5000 RPM. This pump is rated at a maximum of about 260 GPH but this is on 24 Volts and that would be at a much higher RPM. I hope that this helps.
> Thanks,
> rich!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My iPhone doesn't do this any justice in the dark. But my build is all complete.
> 
> 
> 
> I took off the two fans to refill when it gets low, so when it's done bleeding, I'll put the fans back on.
> 
> Also, my loop as an extremely low flow rate. With two D5's at 100%, I only achieve 0.89 GPM. I run them at 3000 RPM each to keep it a little quieter, and I'm currently only getting 0.44 GPM. I haven't tested it yet, but I believe it's the 560 GTS I'm using. When I do some maintanance later, I'll reroute the tubing to bypass the 560 GTS and see how flow is.
> 
> But I'm thinking of grabbing an SR2 560 to get my flow going.
> 
> Specs:
> 4770k
> Maximus VI Hero
> GTX Titan X SC
> 16GB corsair vengeance pro 1866
> EVGA 850 P2
> RX480 (SP120 Quiets)
> RX240 (SP120 Quiets)
> 560GTS (EK Vardar 140ER's)
> 
> For now I'm leaving the build as it is. Too busy with school to work on it anymore. But like I said, I'll eventually swap the 560 GTS with an SR2
Click to expand...

For what it's worth rich,

While all the D5's are rated to 24V, the only variation that actually does anything more above 12V that it does at 12V is the Koolance 450S, usually referred to as the D5 "Strong".

It actually reached 6100 rpm at ~24V and moves a lot more coolant from the normal D5 max of 4800.

It also makes a lot more noise when doing it as well.

Darlene


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> SteezyTN,
> Are your pumps hooked up in series or parallel?
> Thanks,
> rich!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I understand what you're saying, and I know I have a enough rad space. I'm just saying how restrictive the GTS 560 is. And my pumps are currently in series and different parts of the loop. It also didn't change anything when they were right next to each other previously.
> 
> I've had this topic in here a few times, so I don't want it to go on again. I just wanted to say that I was thinking of getting an SR-560 to replace the GTS 560


----------



## mechanic2

SteezyTN,
This is what I would recommend. Remove one pump. Leave only the 480 radiator. Go from the reservoir to the pump to the CPU to the GPU to the 480 radiator and back to the reservoir. Put your flow sensor someplace in the loop after the pump and before the radiator. Now take your readings. I think that you will see an improvement. The 480 is more than enough radiator for one CPU and GPU. Where are your temp sensors?
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> SteezyTN,
> This is what I would recommend. Remove one pump. Leave only the 480 radiator. Go from the reservoir to the pump to the CPU to the GPU to the 480 radiator and back to the reservoir. Put your flow sensor someplace in the loop after the pump and before the radiator. Now take your readings. I think that you will see an improvement. The 480 is more than enough radiator for one CPU and GPU. Where are your temp sensors?
> Thanks,
> rich!


Again, I understand what you're saying and I appreciate the help. But I'm not removing the 560 and 240 rads. A 480 just isn't enough for my volt modded Titan X (or at least the temps for my liking).


----------



## mechanic2

SteezyTN,
OK! I'm just trying to help. What speeds are you pushing the Titan and your CPU to?
Thanks,
rich!

BTW: I received a bunch of RGB LEDs today. I am going to be down well into tomorrow. I'll let you know when I am back up and running.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wait a minute, had 0.5 GPM difference running Serial?
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Yeh 0.5 GPM sounds excessive... however not sure if anyone has sat down and done a formal test between running serial/parallel as far as overall flow figures are concerned for a typical GPU blocks.
> 
> Most GPU blocks are relatively low restriction I would have thought except maybe for some Aquacomputer models.
Click to expand...

This is pretty old article but they got like 0.6 GPM difference between serial & parallel.

https://dragonsgaming.wordpress.com/2011/04/06/water-cooling-video-cards/


----------



## BrjSan

hey guys if any body own the both *EK and bitspower 90 degree dual rotary (M-F) silver*, appreciate a photo next to each other ..... need to make up my mind


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For what it's worth rich,
> 
> While all the D5's are rated to 24V, the only variation that actually does anything more above 12V that it does at 12V is the Koolance 450S, usually referred to as the D5 "Strong".
> 
> It actually reached 6100 rpm at ~24V and moves a lot more coolant from the normal D5 max of 4800.
> 
> It also makes a lot more noise when doing it as well.
> 
> Darlene


This,the stock D5 has a insignificant bump,the Strong however runs like a boss at 24v


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Interesting... Thanks bud! Definitely starting to worry about flowrates once I get Ram, Vrm and board blocks installed.


I think Gab is running 2 D5's per loop on Chessboard, for a total of 4 D5's in the build?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> SteezyTN,
> This is what I would recommend. Remove one pump. Leave only the 480 radiator. Go from the reservoir to the pump to the CPU to the GPU to the 480 radiator and back to the reservoir. Put your flow sensor someplace in the loop after the pump and before the radiator. Now take your readings. I think that you will see an improvement. The 480 is more than enough radiator for one CPU and GPU. Where are your temp sensors?
> Thanks,
> rich!


A lot of people like to run more than "what is required" when watercooling so they can do one of two things: run the fans at a lower speed (which directly affects the overall noise produced from one's case), and secondly aesthetics. An SMA8 just doesn't look "right" with only one radiator in it..

And then you have people who also do various forms of crunching like BOINC, [email protected], cryptocurrencies or other where a single 480mm radiator in push pull is going to have screaming fans in no time as it tries to keep up with the heat output of even a single Titan X.

Most people when it comes to water cooling would rather have more radiator space than is required in order to allow for the addition of more gear down the road or to try and push for that "golden" temperature delta of only 5°C as opposed to the more common 10°C.

Also,cooler gear can be pushed further, and typically lasts longer in high usage scenarios (such as BOINC, [email protected], and various cryptocurrencies that keep a card pinged at 100% usage 24/7).

Thus is one area where automotive cooling differs, because with computers you're aiming for the lowest temperatures you can attain, and not going for "just a tiny bit of extra for when it's really pushed" like in a vehicle because provided you're above the product's cold bug (something you usually only have to worry about if you go subzero) there is no optimal temperature to be running the devices at. With an engine, the goal is to keep it within a very specific temperature range to get the most out of it while inducing the least amount of wear to the moving parts within it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Made some of these today:
> 
> 
> Glow in the dark too


Hard to tell from the pics, but it is a dual extruder Prusa i3?

EDIT: Nope.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well the combs work great, need to make them out of ABS filament since PLA is a tad too brittle


What infill percentage are you using? PLA should flex more than ABS before cracking. Using denser infill should also allow for more flexing.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

All of you in this thread are so much better at this than I am. And to top that off, I'm the definition of a bad photographer. Any feedback is welcome.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> All of you in this thread are so much better at this than I am. And to top that off, I'm the definition of a bad photographer. Any feedback is welcome.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dont kid yourself, that is a great looking build! I personally would throw some white pastel into the coolant.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Dont kid yourself, that is a great looking build! I personally would throw some white pastel into the coolant.


Thank you. White? Interesting. I like being able to see through it and straight water looks cleaner but I am definitely open for suggestions.


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Dont kid yourself, that is a great looking build! I personally would throw some white pastel into the coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. White? Interesting. I like being able to see through it and straight water looks cleaner but I am definitely open for suggestions.
Click to expand...

Honestly, my first thought was just any 3rd color accent, but you are using a storm trooper theme, so it doesn't go. White might be overpowering. It might be better clear like you have it now. Either way, the build is nice, and it doesn't need anything done to it to be a great watercooling build.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Popped Cherry Log in Siggy









Dying to Get Wet?









TCO


----------



## Spectre-

Hi guys i am sort of new to watercooling

i recently had my previous cpu and mobo died and i was running a universal block on my gpu so far, i want to install my full block again but saw this



should i be concerned or can this be neglected


----------



## Ceadderman

Should be fine but I would clean it with some distilled and dish soap as advised at EKWB.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Those are just machine marks if what I'm seeing is correct, you can polish the nickel with non abrasive polish but honestly you're not going to be looking at it a lot so its okay.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Popped Cherry Log in Siggy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dying to Get Wet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I also like Zebra pens. I have an F-701 I keep with me.


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should be fine but I would clean it with some distilled and dish soap as advised at EKWB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Those are just machine marks if what I'm seeing is correct, you can polish the nickel with non abrasive polish but honestly you're not going to be looking at it a lot so its okay.


sweet

cant wait to rehaul my loop soon


----------



## BrjSan

Any body used the bitspower C89 ??


----------



## bundymania

Toys for big boys


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> I also like Zebra pens. I have an F-701 I keep with me.


It was actually fantastic, there was a salesman who quit and left a 701 in his desk, it has to be the finest point that I've ever written on paper with. The 402 is great and I love the wieght.

TCO


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I think I can make something up lol
> 
> Made these today as well, a customer complained about the Buddha Bender/Batman/& Darth Vaders I made so the Bender was the last I was allowed to create


Allowed?! God I love that my wife owns the company haha. I can print anything I want. Kid this weekend printed a nice black shark. We also printed a lego keychain in multi-colored neon green and black.

The wife did say I can use her printers to print me all the cable combs I need. Now...what material?! Carbon fiber? PLA? ABS? BRONZE?!?! Oh oh oh!! Bamboo!! The choices will kill me if the wife doesnt lol.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> All of you in this thread are so much better at this than I am. And to top that off, I'm the definition of a bad photographer. Any feedback is welcome.


The build looks good, but if you could you move the upper res bracket higher, it would look less complicated around the res. Also, I prefer horizontal or vertical lines, since you are using fittings for all your plane switches, maybe get a few more fittings so the runs to your CPU and MOBO are vertical.

But nonetheless, that's a sweet case and a gorgeous scheme going on.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> I also like Zebra pens. I have an F-701 I keep with me.


Zebra pens







. I like using their ballpoints for when I just want to doodle. Though, most peeps would not call it doodling and say I am straight up drawing.







Though, G2 gel pens are my fav for thick line work.

Though I love my micron pens to death for fine line work. Got some Copic multiliner set I still need to take a whirl with.

I believe I had a 701, just they don't put enough darn ink in them. Think I killed two of them one time in a day from my doodling in jet troop mech technical school.


----------



## SteezyTN

Okay, I just have one quick question, and I don't want to start a whole entire page of it. Just one simple question, and it's regarding 90's on pumps (again).

Is it the 90 degree elbow on the inlet or outlet (or both) of a pump that "cause the problem" of flow, loudness, vibration, etc?

Some people tell me only the outlet;
Some people tell me only the inlet;
Some people tell me it's both.

Someone (@Ceadderman) referenced me to the dual 90 degree rotary by Bitspower, and I really want to know what to do before spending $60 on 4 fittings, unless I really only need 2 (because I have two pumps).


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Zebra pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I like using their ballpoints for when I just want to doodle. Though, most peeps would not call it doodling and say I am straight up drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, G2 gel pens are my fav for thick line work.
> 
> Though I love my micron pens to death for fine line work. Got some Copic multiliner set I still need to take a whirl with.
> 
> I believe I had a 701, just they don't put enough darn ink in them. Think I killed two of them one time in a day from my doodling in jet troop mech technical school.


I just write with mine. Usually signing things. Lol. I got it originally for work in the oil patch because it was all metal. Liked it so much I still use it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, I just have one quick question, and I don't want to start a whole entire page of it. Just one simple question, and it's regarding 90's on pumps (again).
> 
> Is it the 90 degree elbow on the inlet or outlet (or both) of a pump that "cause the problem" of flow, loudness, vibration, etc?
> 
> Some people tell me only the outlet;
> Some people tell me only the inlet;
> Some people tell me it's both.
> 
> Someone (@Ceadderman) referenced me to the dual 90 degree rotary by Bitspower, and I really want to know what to do before spending $60 on 4 fittings, unless I really only need 2 (because I have two pumps).


I'm not experienced enough to say it is any of those, all I know is in the loops I've had I've not really noticed much of a difference in terms of flow or noise problems. The only pump that is the quietest is in my gf's loop on the new EK mount covered in rubber.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, I just have one quick question, and I don't want to start a whole entire page of it. Just one simple question, and it's regarding 90's on pumps (again).
> 
> Is it the 90 degree elbow on the inlet or outlet (or both) of a pump that "cause the problem" of flow, loudness, vibration, etc?
> 
> Some people tell me only the outlet;
> Some people tell me only the inlet;
> Some people tell me it's both.
> 
> Someone (@Ceadderman) referenced me to the dual 90 degree rotary by Bitspower, and I really want to know what to do before spending $60 on 4 fittings, unless I really only need 2 (because I have two pumps).


I would think that a 90's restrictions is the same regardless where in the loop its put. The thing I think that might cause problems on some pumps,not necessarily the ones for pc cooling, is cavitation in the intake of the pump. I read about it being bad on pumps with metal impellers but that polymer ones where a lot more resistant to it. It would probably sound like air going through the pump all the time. I'd say if the temps, flow, and noise levels are good why worry.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, I just have one quick question, and I don't want to start a whole entire page of it. Just one simple question, and it's regarding 90's on pumps (again).
> 
> Is it the 90 degree elbow on the inlet or outlet (or both) of a pump that "cause the problem" of flow, loudness, vibration, etc?
> 
> Some people tell me only the outlet;
> Some people tell me only the inlet;
> Some people tell me it's both.
> 
> Someone (@Ceadderman) referenced me to the dual 90 degree rotary by Bitspower, and I really want to know what to do before spending $60 on 4 fittings, unless I really only need 2 (because I have two pumps).


Man, you got to stop overthinking this stuff. I got 90s on the in and out of my last build. No issues. I also had 4 rads, 2 cards, 2 ram blocks and cpu running on 1 pump with great flow. Im not sure where your flow problems are coming from. I got a 90 and a 45 on my current build with no issues at all and great flow.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Toys for big boys


I hate you so much right now......so pretty


----------



## hidethecookies

@SteezyTN Here is some test Martin's Liquid Lab did on elbow effects on flow. https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/01/05/elbow-impacts-on-pump-performance/


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, I just have one quick question, and I don't want to start a whole entire page of it. Just one simple question, and it's regarding 90's on pumps (again).
> 
> Is it the 90 degree elbow on the inlet or outlet (or both) of a pump that "cause the problem" of flow, loudness, vibration, etc?
> 
> Some people tell me only the outlet;
> Some people tell me only the inlet;
> Some people tell me it's both.
> 
> Someone (@Ceadderman) referenced me to the dual 90 degree rotary by Bitspower, and I really want to know what to do before spending $60 on 4 fittings, unless I really only need 2 (because I have two pumps).


On the outlet, it won't matter. On the inlet, it could cause some impeller noise. I'm think the recommendation is 2-3 times the ID of the tube in a straight run before the pump. (For 1/2" tube, 2 inches of tubing before the inlet, etc.) @B NEGATIVE would be able to tell you for sure, though.


----------



## SteezyTN

What do you guys think. Could this be a reason for my low flow?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What do you guys think. Could this be a reason for my low flow?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I didn't clean my loop for two years and I didn't have anywhere near that mucg plasticizer in my blocks. Wow.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I didn't clean my loop for two years and I didn't have anywhere near that mucg plasticizer in my blocks. Wow.


Well I've been using it for almost 2 years. Installed in October 2014.

So I'm assuming that this could be the cause?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well I've been using it for almost 2 years. Installed in October 2014.
> 
> So I'm assuming that this could be the cause?


can you put the loop together without the block and slap an aircooler on the CPU and check flowrates without it?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> can you put the loop together without the block and slap an aircooler on the CPU and check flowrates without it?


Oh geez. I mean I could, but that just takes too much. If this doesn't fix flow, then I'll just leave my PC as it is. Too much of a hassle. I'm fine with the flow I have, but it just doesn't stack up to others with similar build.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Oh geez. I mean I could, but that just takes too much. If this doesn't fix flow, then I'll just leave my PC as it is. Too much of a hassle. I'm fine with the flow I have, but it just doesn't stack up to others with similar build.


Just clean it out, and then change fluid more often.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Just clean it out, and then change fluid more often.


I'm using Mayhems pastel ice white, and I've been using it for almost a year, if that. I'm hoping to get at least another year out of it. If not, I'll replace it in January. Coolant is too expensive, especially with a ~3 liter loop.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What do you guys think.


Yep you found an issue.

Cpu blocks basically act as a fine filter to some degree so they inherently trap any debri over time. Any gunk in there will limit flow.

Give it a clean and place it back into your loop... You will notice a jump in flow for sure.

You can actually drain your fluid then simply pour it through a filter (paper coffee filter etc) and reuse provided the fluid is within its normal working date range.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Oh geez. I mean I could, but that just takes too much. If this doesn't fix flow, then I'll just leave my PC as it is. Too much of a hassle. I'm fine with the flow I have, but it just doesn't stack up to others with similar build.


haha yeah I get that, I should've done a few things with my loops but it isn't worth the drain/fill/bleed process


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yep you found an issue.
> 
> Cpu blocks basically act as a fine filter to some degree so they inherently trap any debri over time. Any gunk in there will limit flow.
> 
> Give it a clean and place it back into your loop... You will notice a jump in flow for sure.
> 
> You can actually drain your fluid then simply pour it through a filter (paper coffee filter etc) and reuse provided the fluid is within its normal working date range.


I sure hope so. Just installed it back in. Going to fill it now. And yeah, I know about the coffee filter. That's what I've been doing. I've been noticing a lot of black debrese ever since I've been using this coolant. It gets filtered almost every time. In January I'm going to throw it out and get some more. When I do that I'm going to flush the entire system.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> haha yeah I get that, I should've done a few things with my loops but it isn't worth the drain/fill/bleed process


I'm just so busy with school, that I barely have time to do this lol. I'm just tired of this build lol.


----------



## eucalyptus

How do I create a gallery or a album on Overclock?







I mean it would only be struggle to post my pictures in the thread and they would be lost in no time in all those thousand pages
















And yeah, how do fix so I get a notice everytime quote me?









Got 80 pictures waiting to be shown









http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2771227/


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> How do I create a gallery or a album on Overclock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean it would only be struggle to post my pictures in the thread and they would be lost in no time in all those thousand pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah, how do fix so I get a notice everytime quote me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got 80 pictures waiting to be shown
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2771227/


Holy...............


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I didn't clean my loop for two years and I didn't have anywhere near that mucg plasticizer in my blocks. Wow.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I've been using it for almost 2 years. Installed in October 2014.
> 
> So I'm assuming that this could be the cause?
Click to expand...











I think clean the block and see if that clears up your issue.









Maybe before adjusting the 90* fittings to give yourself a clearer picture.









~Ceadder


----------



## BWAS1000

Anything I could use to connect 3/8 ID tubing to the 1/4 barb on the H55 block?


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> How do I create a gallery or a album on Overclock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean it would only be struggle to post my pictures in the thread and they would be lost in no time in all those thousand pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah, how do fix so I get a notice everytime quote me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got 80 pictures waiting to be shown


Go to your profile and add your system to your signature. Member's can then see your rig and a thumbnail every time you post, and if they are interested, can click your PC's name and it will take you to a page for your rig, where you can post photos, add descriptions, prices, comments, etc. Unfortunately, if you are looking to showcase and draw more attention, you can always try making your own thread. There are a ton of quality builds here and even one like yours can easily get lost in the shuffle.


----------



## derickwm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1590424/sponsored-verkt-y-cu-an-elegant-steampunk-2p-workstation/80#post_25123893


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I didn't clean my loop for two years and I didn't have anywhere near that mucg plasticizer in my blocks. Wow.


Remove everything from the copper block and soak it in mayhems blitz pro radiator cleaner. Not the loop cleaner, just the radiator clean which is a mild form of acid. It will come out shining like new. Clean all the other parts of the cpu block with the 2nd part of blitz cleaner and it will be like new. JFYI, pumps weaken over time.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Small radiator clamps work fine.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Does anyone have any insight on to what are the 'go to' quick-disconnects these days?

Would prefer ones with a bulkhead on one side, saw that alphacool had some are they well rated/anyone used them?


----------



## axipher

We've been using Koolance ones at home for a couple years now and they see monthly disconnecting and reconnecting and haven't failed yet or leaked.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> We've been using Koolance ones at home for a couple years now and they see monthly disconnecting and reconnecting and haven't failed yet or leaked.


Thanks, Its either use this to put radiators in my ITX case, or make a dual system - either way I wanna way up the options.


----------



## VSG

Both are ok, the Alphacool ones are limited in port options but cost less. So far over 8 weeks, the Koolance ones have been more reliable in connections and disconnections in that the Alphacool ones have the plunger stick inside slightly when disconnecting and the locking ring needs to be used to get it back in place.


----------



## saxovtsmike

My littel 600C, gpu will be watercooled too


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Both are ok, the Alphacool ones are limited in port options but cost less. So far over 8 weeks, the Koolance ones have been more reliable in connections and disconnections in that the Alphacool ones have the plunger stick inside slightly when disconnecting and the locking ring needs to be used to get it back in place.


Just a random question somewhat related, on the ones that started to stick on you, were you using anything in your loop other than straight water?

For us since quick-disconnects make filling and draining portions of the loop super easy, we typically swap out at least half the loop's fluid once a year to make sure it keeps running smooth.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Both are ok, the Alphacool ones are limited in port options but cost less. So far over 8 weeks, the Koolance ones have been more reliable in connections and disconnections in that the Alphacool ones have the plunger stick inside slightly when disconnecting and the locking ring needs to be used to get it back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Just a random question somewhat related, on the ones that started to stick on you, were you using anything in your loop other than straight water?
> 
> For us since quick-disconnects make filling and draining portions of the loop super easy, we typically swap out at least half the loop's fluid once a year to make sure it keeps running smooth.
Click to expand...

If you are going to drain it then do it all,1 cup of clean water mixed with 1 cup of dirty water = 2 cups of dirty water......

In other news,I has been been in teh shed and painted stuff.....the first lawnmower of the year means its time to fire up the hateful compressor (98db and,recently anyway,a bit rattly) for a Corsair build....

So...In direct light....










White and....well.....white.

But...you know....



















....its blue as well......


----------



## electro2u

What does it mean when you break everything down and there is a tiny bit of blue/white fluid stuck in some of your fittings, around the oring at the threads? Is that oxidation of the paint due to exposure to the air?

My fluid is red so I'm a bit puzzled. It looks just like what happens to a lot of people's black koolance qdcs.

Am i over tightening the fittings? Is the tubing too small for them?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Does anyone have any insight on to what are the 'go to' quick-disconnects these days?
> 
> Would prefer ones with a bulkhead on one side, saw that alphacool had some are they well rated/anyone used them?


I've been looking for some for an upcoming idea I've got brewing. After researching on xtremerigs.com QDC review it looks like qd4 and vl4n are the best as far as restriction goes. But all i cans find are g3/8 or a tubing size much larger than I care to deal with. Hopefully there are some newer options in not aware of though

Edit: the qd3's don't look bad though and is probably what I'll get, they do make them in "panel" versions also


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Does anyone have any insight on to what are the 'go to' quick-disconnects these days?
> 
> Would prefer ones with a bulkhead on one side, saw that alphacool had some are they well rated/anyone used them?


Go with Koolance, the non-twist ones. They are the only ones I have that have had the lowest failure rate. And Ive connected and disconnected all of them a bunch of times. They have the ones that can mount to a panel with a nut (which is really nice to have the disconnect mounted to a solid part in the case-or on the outside of the case). You know what? I have an extra set for 3/8-5/8. PM me and I can drop it into the mail for you and you can check it out, feel it in your hand before spending money. (Wait a minute, I just saw youre in the UK, that may cost more to mail it then the fitting itself-PM me anyway if you want a set and we'll figure it out)


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> What does it mean when you break everything down and there is a tiny bit of blue/white fluid stuck in some of your fittings, around the oring at the threads? Is that oxidation of the paint due to exposure to the air?
> 
> My fluid is red so I'm a bit puzzled. It looks just like what happens to a lot of people's black koolance qdcs.
> 
> Am i over tightening the fittings? Is the tubing too small for them?


Interesting that you mentioned that. Ive only seen it once and it was when I was using Primochill coolant and went from hardline with Monsoon fittings. I went to swap in an on/off valve in some parts and change the fluid and I saw that. But I never saw it again after that and it was only in one very small part on the o-ring. I tried to duplicate it with the leftover Primochill, a few extra fittings. I ran my extra pump in a little loop with a 120 alphacool rad for a few days but I never got anything like that again. Maybe if I ran it longer I wouldve seen results. I cant imagine that over-tightening would cause it. But of course the term "over-tightening" is pretty subjective because I have no idea how tight you mean. I used to over-tighten fittings until I realized that we dont need to go to crazy to get a good seal. I also wouldnt be surprised if the Koolance Black QDC's were part of your problem. I know theyve made batches where the coating is garbage and begins to peel and flake. I hadnt use the black QDC's but maybe one of my fittings had started to flake and thats why I saw what I saw.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Anything I could use to connect 3/8 ID tubing to the 1/4 barb on the H55 block?


I used a small piece of hose that fits as an adapter. I ran with this setup for over a year with no problems.


----------



## paskowitz

I'm waiting on my acrylic pieces, but some lighting, sleeving and color coordinating go a long way.

*I need better lighting...


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> I used a small piece of hose that fits as an adapter. I ran with this setup for over a year with no problems.


That and a clamp or something?


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> That and a clamp or something?


Yeah I just used a zip tie because it was out of sight on a G10 kraken. They make reusable clamps that don't look to bad for cheap.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-reusable-hose-clamp-for-od-10mm-3-8.html


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Yeah I just used a zip tie because it was out of sight on a G10 kraken. They make reusable clamps that don't look to bad for cheap.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-reusable-hose-clamp-for-od-10mm-3-8.html


And that was a bit of 1/4" Tubing you used on the barbs right?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Interesting that you mentioned that. Ive only seen it once and it was when I was using Primochill coolant and went from hardline with Monsoon fittings. I went to swap in an on/off valve in some parts and change the fluid and I saw that. But I never saw it again after that and it was only in one very small part on the o-ring. I tried to duplicate it with the leftover Primochill, a few extra fittings. I ran my extra pump in a little loop with a 120 alphacool rad for a few days but I never got anything like that again. Maybe if I ran it longer I wouldve seen results. I cant imagine that over-tightening would cause it. But of course the term "over-tightening" is pretty subjective because I have no idea how tight you mean. I used to over-tighten fittings until I realized that we dont need to go to crazy to get a good seal. I also wouldnt be surprised if the Koolance Black QDC's were part of your problem. I know theyve made batches where the coating is garbage and begins to peel and flake. I hadnt use the black QDC's but maybe one of my fittings had started to flake and thats why I saw what I saw.


Yeh I think that would be too costly but thanks for the kind offer









Koolance it is guys!


----------



## sdmf74

disregard


----------



## Duke976

Replaced my EVGA sli bridge with the MSI Tri sli bridge for better air clearance.





Now i have better temp. Before temp on the top card reaches as high as 80+, now it doesnt even break 70







both in benchmark and gaming.


----------



## BWAS1000

How long with no biocide? My PC is just above the ground, non windowed, but there's a side panel Mount. The nearest window is mostly.blocked and there's a printer to the left of it just slightly higher


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello guys

Finally im going to finished my water cooling part purchess and only one left.

I need biocids and other adds for save my system ( from inside ) good and dont mixed and dusted my water.

So plz link me what i need to add with distilled water to it not mixed with dust and bla bla bla for it stay cristal some 4-5 month


----------



## Domler

FYI. For my friends state side. New egg has the pg348q in stock.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'm waiting on my acrylic pieces, but some lighting, sleeving and color coordinating go a long way.
> 
> *I need better lighting...


Wow, I would love to see the rest of the build, that is a really great shot! On a side note, where did you get the sleeving you used over the tube? I wanted to do something similar after seeing how it turned out on lowfat's Lian Li build, but now I'd really like to do it.


----------



## prznar1

Guys i need your advice. I have a 360 radiator. Old fat thermochill with 25mm fan holes spacing. Im planning to go for newer case but that extra 10mm between fans will be a problem. So im thinking about getting 35mm thik coolgate radiator with 22fpi and 38mm yateloon 1350 rmp fans on it. Will it do the job same as my old 60mm thik radiator?


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Wow, I would love to see the rest of the build, that is a really great shot! On a side note, where did you get the sleeving you used over the tube? I wanted to do something similar after seeing how it turned out on lowfat's Lian Li build, but now I'd really like to do it.


A couple years back I got sleeving that would fit from mdpc-x but I don't know if you can buy their sleeving still.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> A couple years back I got sleeving that would fit from mdpc-x but I don't know if you can buy their sleeving still.


You can purchase MDPC-x sleeving on the caselabs sight If I am not mistaken.

TCO


----------



## VSG

http://mod-one.com now, split off the Caselabs business and its own entity now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://mod-one.com now, split off the Caselabs business and its own entity now.


So no more sleeving at Caselabs site? I need simple answers sometimes VSG. Only had one cup of Joe so far this morning.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So no more sleeving at Caselabs site? I need simple answers sometimes VSG. Only had one cup of Joe so far this morning.
> 
> TCO


No more sleeving at the Caselabs site, no more Kevin at Caselabs. He started his own business (Mod One) with MDPC sleeving as the first products.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No more sleeving at the Caselabs site, no more Kevin at Caselabs. He started his own business (Mod One) with MDPC sleeving as the first products.










Wonder if he left on Good terms? Caselabs is a small company to start with yes?

TCO


----------



## Bogga

I get so jealeous when I see the prices you guys get. Swedish taxes aren't something you joke about


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder if he left on Good terms? Caselabs is a small company to start with yes?
> 
> TCO


Good terms: http://www.overclock.net/t/1598444/our-newest-family-entrepreneur-kevin/0_50


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> Finally im going to finished my water cooling part purchess and only one left.
> 
> I need biocids and other adds for save my system ( from inside ) good and dont mixed and dusted my water.
> 
> So plz link me what i need to add with distilled water to it not mixed with dust and bla bla bla for it stay cristal some 4-5 month


can some one help me plz ?









I need amazon links guys if you can link them and ill buy


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> can some one help me plz ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need amazon links guys if you can link them and ill buy


While you can get a biocide on Amazon, you won't get a non-glycol based anti-corrosive agent easily. It would be easier to buy a coolant concentrate that has everything you need, and then dilute in distilled water like so: http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Ultra-Concentrate-Coolant-Clear/dp/B00L5IXAFS/

There are other options from different manufacturers but a quick Amazon search showed this to be a lot less expensive than most others. As usual, check at your local Amazon website for prices as the .com will vary form .de etc.


----------



## fast_fate

Darn - with Kevin gone have to find out who is the appropriate person to bribe at CaseLabs these days









But seriously, Kevin's help was greatly appreciated during his CaseLabs years - Thanks Mate









and of course, wishing you the success you deserve in you new venture - site looks great btw.









F-F

*EDIT:* wrong thread but it can stay here anyways


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Wow, I would love to see the rest of the build, that is a really great shot! On a side note, where did you get the sleeving you used over the tube? I wanted to do something similar after seeing how it turned out on lowfat's Lian Li build, but now I'd really like to do it.


Many thanks! That's all I've got right now. I need to wait until night so my shutter speed is a little quicker.

I really like the white and red lighting from the HUE+. The carbon fiber sleeving isn't really "carbon fiber" looking. That being said it picks up the light really well and looks better than just clear tubing with clear liquid. It is a relative cheap aesthetic upgrade.

This is the sleeving I used. I tried slipping the sleeving under the fittings but they wouldn't close fully and the risk wasn't worth it. Next time I will try will a slightly bigger OD fitting. For the power cables I had to use tape because the pre sleeved extensions would not stay in place. I am debating using hot glue or some other adhesive... but I'm not sure that will look good either.

The effect can be really nice...


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> While you can get a biocide on Amazon, you won't get a non-glycol based anti-corrosive agent easily. It would be easier to buy a coolant concentrate that has everything you need, and then dilute in distilled water like so: http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Ultra-Concentrate-Coolant-Clear/dp/B00L5IXAFS/
> 
> There are other options from different manufacturers but a quick Amazon search showed this to be a lot less expensive than most others. As usual, check at your local Amazon website for prices as the .com will vary form .de etc.


Mayhems X1 is Anti Corrosive and non glycol correct?

Also, I'm hoping my loop lasts till around late July with No biocide. Filled it Mid April. No issues thus far


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys i need your advice. I have a 360 radiator. Old fat thermochill with 25mm fan holes spacing. Im planning to go for newer case but that extra 10mm between fans will be a problem. So im thinking about getting 35mm thik coolgate radiator with 22fpi and 38mm yateloon 1350 rmp fans on it. Will it do the job same as my old 60mm thik radiator?


sry for spamz but i would like to know.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Mayhems X1 is Anti Corrosive and non glycol correct?


Yes, you are correct. It is based off glycerol, and not ethylene/propylene glycol.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, you are correct. It is based off glycerol, and not ethylene/propylene glycol.


X1 is what I'm going with when I refill my loop


----------



## Ithanul

I use X1 in my main rig. No problems with it and it does its job.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I use X1 in my main rig. No problems with it and it does its job.


That's good to know. There is no Pink X1 is there?


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> That's good to know. There is no Pink X1 is there?


No, but you can get the clear X1 fluid with the Non staining Pink/red Dye to make your fluid custom.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> No, but you can get the clear X1 fluid with the Non staining Pink/red Dye to make your fluid custom.


Forgot about that, I think that's what I'll do


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Forgot about that, I think that's what I'll do


GL With it


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> GL With it


Going with the pink dye should leave me with some left over for another build right? I wanted to go Pastel, but I read about the zinc oxide meaning I can't just throw it down the sink. Me being in trinidad means its going to be a pain or impossible to properly dispose of it, and I don't want to go that route, hence the choice for X1.


----------



## fast_fate

Time for a clean up and upgrade to acrylic









Sr2 and MIPS goodness


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Time for a clean up and upgrade to acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sr2 and MIPS goodness


Nice!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Time for a clean up and upgrade to acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sr2 and MIPS goodness


Identical to my SR2 except I didnt bother with the ram blocks....not Doc MIPS best day at the design table tbh.

HK3's are still sexy in an Audrey Hepburn type of way.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Time for a clean up and upgrade to acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sr2 and MIPS goodness
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Identical to my SR2 except I didnt bother with the ram blocks....not Doc MIPS best day at the design table tbh.
> 
> HK3's are still sexy in an Audrey Hepburn type of way.
Click to expand...


Yep!


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> While you can get a biocide on Amazon, you won't get a non-glycol based anti-corrosive agent easily. It would be easier to buy a coolant concentrate that has everything you need, and then dilute in distilled water like so: http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Ultra-Concentrate-Coolant-Clear/dp/B00L5IXAFS/
> 
> There are other options from different manufacturers but a quick Amazon search showed this to be a lot less expensive than most others. As usual, check at your local Amazon website for prices as the .com will vary form .de etc.


Thank you.

So If i buy XSPC-Ultra-Concentrate-Coolant- this or others from Performance-pc . I mean if ill buy recomennded Concentrate coolant i dont need no more biocid + anti corrosive and others? there will be everything?

So this cool ant is not already mixed water right? its 250mm or something like that and its need to add water right? i mean do i know whats mean coolant .

===================================================================================

This is my beauty guys just now i opened it





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, you are correct. It is based off glycerol, and not ethylene/propylene glycol.


what is wrong with glycol based fluids?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> what is wrong with glycol based fluids?


Not much wrong with Propylene Glycol. Ethylene Glycol is Toxic.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Not much wrong with Propylene Glycol. Ethylene Glycol is Toxic.


What is in regular antifreeze?

Is it harmful to the loop? I don't care if its toxic, I don't plan on drinking my loop fluid. I just don't want it melting any components...?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> What is in regular antifreeze?
> 
> Is it harmful to the loop? I don't care if its toxic, I don't plan on drinking my loop fluid. I just don't want it melting any components...?


Ethylene Glycol is in Antifreeze. Its a personal preference of mine. I don't like toxic things because they're a pain to dispose of, even worse since I'm in Trinidad. And I'm not pouring it down the drain. That's the reason I'm skeptical of Mayhems Pastel, if Zinc Oxide will really cause a big issue or not. If it will I'm going X1 every time. And no, its not harmful to the loop. Many coolants on the market are glycol based


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Ethylene Glycol is in Antifreeze. Its a personal preference of mine. I don't like toxic things because they're a pain to dispose of, even worse since I'm in Trinidad. And I'm jot.pouring it down the drain. That's the reason I'm skeptical of Mayhems Pastel, if Zinc Oxide will really cause a big issue or not. If it will I'm going X1 every time. And no, its not harmful to the loop. Many coolants on the market are glycol based


I just store used antifreeze and get rid of 30 gallons of it at a time. Takes about 10 years to amass that much of it too. Several flushes on all the cars, etc. The loop is a small amount compared to that. Right now I don't care about color, the maintenance is too much for me at this point to worry about that yet. I'm still very new to custom loops.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> I just store used antifreeze and get rid of 30 gallons of it at a time. Takes about 10 years to amass that much of it too. Several flushes on all the cars, etc. The loop is a small amount compared to that. Right now I don't care about color, the maintenance is too much for me at this point to worry about that yet. I'm still very new to custom loops.


As am I. The loop in my signature is my first loop, built less than a month ago. That being said.I'm going Mayhems X1 to not have to deal with a kill coil of PT nuke, since I believe X1 is based on vegetable extract. Only debate now is Clear + Dye or just Blue


----------



## Laithan

I've always been advised that to have a "maintenance free loop" (meaning no more than what would NORMALLY be required) is to run straight DISTILLED water and PTNUKE, nothing else and *no dye*.

Has this general advice changed? I'm curious if anyone has any experience comparing this to X1 and are they "equal" with regard to maintenance? I've avoided colored dyes like the plague for this reason.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I've always been advised that to have a "maintenance free loop" (meaning no more than what would NORMALLY be required) is to run straight DISTILLED water and PTNUKE, nothing else and *no dye*.
> 
> Has this general advice changed? I'm curious if anyone has any experience comparing this to X1 and are they "equal" with regard to maintenance? I've avoided colored dyes like the plague for this reason.


Dyes got blamed for a lot of things that they didn't do, it's true they dye porous parts like non hardline tubing but they don't cause clogging from what I've seen that was in fact plasticiser leaching. My gf is running mayhems blue dye in De-Ionized water as we speak, been a month or so now with zero issues.

I've run straight de-ionized water for several months with no sign of algae growth but I drained my loop every 6 months or so due to buying new parts or changing tubing due to clouding.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I've always been advised that to have a "maintenance free loop" (meaning no more than what would NORMALLY be required) is to run straight DISTILLED water and PTNUKE, nothing else and *no dye*.
> 
> Has this general advice changed? I'm curious if anyone has any experience comparing this to X1 and are they "equal" with regard to maintenance? I've avoided colored dyes like the plague for this reason.


X1 Clear should be just as good as distilled and kill coil. It IS possible for dyes to gunk and such, but a lot of that is due to running extra additives not meant to be combined. Dyes stain Tubing due to then actually leeching into the tubing walls. They stain blocks and such because well, its a dye, they're meant to stain things
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Dyes got blamed for a lot of things that they didn't do, it's true they dye porous parts like non hardline tubing but they don't cause clogging from what I've seen that was in fact plasticiser leaching. My gf is running mayhems blue dye in De-Ionized water as we speak, been a month or so now with zero issues.
> 
> I've run straight de-ionized water for several months with no sign of algae growth but I drained my loop every 6 months or so due to buying new parts or changing tubing due to clouding.


When I take apart my loop I will be cha going tubing. I have like 6-7 feet of Mayhems Ultra Clear just resting in my bookshelf now waiting for that. I can't find a reason not to swap out tubing every refill, especially since Amazon can give you like 10 feet of nylon reinforced 3/8 ID 5/8 OD for about 7-10USD, and 10 feet of Ultra Clear is 11USD


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Not much wrong with Propylene Glycol. Ethylene Glycol is Toxic.


Only toxic if it is ingested as a liquid.

Some of our commercial pc specific coolants actually contain Ethelyne glycol.

Glycol based coolants are pretty much superior when it comes down to corrosion protection for our loops.

Additives such as silver 'kill' coils, PT Nuke etc do nothing re. corrosion protection and in many cases they can actually accelerate corrosion issues.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Only toxic if it is ingested as a liquid.
> 
> Some of our commercial pc specific coolants actually contain Ethelyne glycol.
> 
> Glycol based coolants are pretty much superior when it comes down to corrosion protection for our loops.
> 
> Additives such as silver 'kill' coils, PT Nuke etc do nothing re. corrosion protection and in many cases they can actually accelerate corrosion issues.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Ethylene Glycol is in Antifreeze. Its a personal preference of mine. I don't like toxic things because they're a pain to dispose of, even worse since I'm in Trinidad. And I'm not pouring it down the drain. That's the reason I'm skeptical of Mayhems Pastel, if Zinc Oxide will really cause a big issue or not. If it will I'm going X1 every time. And no, its not harmful to the loop. *Many coolants on the market are glycol based*


I know they're glycol based, I said that.........
I'm well aware glycol based coolants are superior for corrosion protection, I'm also well aware kill coils don't help. They aren't meant to. They're just meant for biocide. Hence Why I'm going with X1........


----------



## X-Nine

Glycol based coolants, especially ethylene glycol, are pretty much garbage. They really don't have any biocide properties and you'll find that out once you're trying to scrape a bunch of crap off the inside of your reservoir.

They're toxic to the environment, pets, kids... I'm just not a fan of it.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Glycol based coolants, especially ethylene glycol, are pretty much garbage. They really don't have any biocide properties and you'll find that out once you're trying to scrape a bunch of crap off the inside of your reservoir.
> 
> *They're toxic to the environment, pets, kids... I'm just not a fan of it.*


My sentiments exactly. I spend time looking for coolants to sue and as soon as I see Glycol, I instantly look away.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> They're toxic to the environment, pets, kids... I'm just not a fan of it.


Just recycle them.... I take any used coolant to my local auto shop and they add it to their used coolant drum. Once a month they have it emptied and it goes off for recycling.

As far as gunking up rads... not sure what your experience has been but many others have been using glycol based coolants for many years now with no ill effects. For sure if you mix certain types of coolants you can run into trouble but generally they work fine.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> *Just recycle them.... I take any used coolant to my local auto shop and they add it to their used coolant drum.* Once a month they have it emptied and it goes off for recycling.
> 
> As far as gunking up rads... not sure what your experience has been but many others have been using glycol based coolants for many years now with no ill effects. For sure if you mix certain types of coolants you can run into trouble but generally they work fine.


Therein lies my problem. You can't do that in Trinidad. The concept of recycling is nearly nonexistent


----------



## 0ldChicken

lets not forget that propylene glycol based coolants are not to be used with PETG!


----------



## Bogga

Since I've got three dogs I wont ever use that ingredient. If I had a leak and my components were to die it would be sad, but if my dogs were to die I'd never forgive myself...


----------



## Benjiw

The whole point is to NOT let your PC leak and your pets should always be supervised, it's your job as pack leader to ensure they're safe and under control.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Since I've got three dogs I wont ever use that ingredient. If I had a leak and my components were to die it would be sad, but if my dogs were to die I'd never forgive myself...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> The whole point is to NOT let your PC leak and your pets should always be supervised, it's your job as pack leader to ensure they're safe and under control.


You'd be quite right. That being said, it.could spring aleak when he's not at home through some strange twist of fate or unfortunate circumstances. I can respect your point of view, but I'll have to side with the whole not using toxic chemicals thing


----------



## Costas

These days most glycol coolants contain strong bittering agents in them (glycol is normally sweet to taste) so the product wont generally be liked by kids or pets.

Years ago though coolants simply had a sweet taste so kids and animals would not necessarily spit it out if swallowed.

Ethelyne glycol is no where near as dangerous as some other househould chemicals.

For instance vapours of Ethelyne glycol are not toxic and are considered just an irritant. Compare that to many common cleaning products you use around your house.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> You'd be quite right. That being said, it.could spring aleak when he's not at home through some strange twist of fate or unfortunate circumstances. I can respect your point of view, but I'll have to side with the whole not using toxic chemicals thing


Fair point, personally I'd keep my pets away from electronics while they're not around me, my dog had a bed under my desk but there wasn't any cables in the way etc, if my dog did enter my room while I wasn't present to sleep in MY bed the cheeky little scamp he was, he would have to perform the dog equivalent of free running then pick up my pc from the corner of the desk to knock it off the side.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Fair point, personally I'd keep my pets away from electronics while they're not around me, my dog had a bed under my desk but there wasn't any cables in the way etc, if my dog did enter my room while I wasn't present to sleep in MY bed the cheeky little scamp he was, he would have to perform the dog equivalent of free running then pick up my pc from the corner of the desk to knock it off the side.


Yeah, you'd be safe there for sure. My personal preference stems from me wanting to preserve the environment I live in, if for no other reason than to improve quality of life for me, my current family and my future family, combined with the fact that recycling anything in their country is terrible . all the cars run catless etc. Etc.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Fair point, personally I'd keep my pets away from electronics while they're not around me, my dog had a bed under my desk but there wasn't any cables in the way etc, if my dog did enter my room while I wasn't present to sleep in MY bed the cheeky little scamp he was, he would have to perform the dog equivalent of free running then pick up my pc from the corner of the desk to knock it off the side.


I actually tried Eth/Glyc while filling my loop just to see it really tasted like. I limited myself to half a glass of the stuff and only spent 3 weeks in the hospital getting my stomach pumped. By itself it tastes pretty nasty. But mixed with some good quality Rum it wasn't half bad.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> I actually tried Eth/Glyc while filling my loop just to see it really tasted like. I limited myself to half a glass of the stuff and only spent 3 weeks in the hospital getting my stomach pumped. By itself it tastes pretty nasty. But mixed with some good quality Rum it wasn't half bad.


Try drinking more, I hear the crystals it forms in your blood stream is a great time!


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Try drinking more, I hear the crystals it forms in your blood stream is a great time!


LOL... bad joke I know. Gotta have some fun around here.


----------



## feznz

I used Glycol based coolant, it has been nearly 4 years...... still waiting to see if a problem will arise
I believe the odds are about the same of a animal or child opening a car hood removing the radiator cap and having a drink or opening up a computer case and having a drink.
Besides I am not a perfectionist, I can live with a slight residue in the reservoir
As for environmental issues, poorest excuse ever, after reading this I might just never own another computer.
http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/campaigns/detox/electronics/the-e-waste-problem/


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> So If i buy XSPC-Ultra-Concentrate-Coolant- this or others from Performance-pc . I mean if ill buy recomennded Concentrate coolant i dont need no more biocid + anti corrosive and others? there will be everything?
> 
> So this cool ant is not already mixed water right? its 250mm or something like that and its need to add water right? i mean do i know whats mean coolant .
> 
> ===================================================================================
> 
> This is my beauty guys just now i opened it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


some one can answer?


----------



## gree

I was watching jay, and he ran a gpu without water in the block to "test" that he put it together correctly.
He claims that doesnt damage anything in nvidia cards. (It was getting around 30C)

Can you really run it like that? (For just dekstop work)
I dont get how running it without any cooling is possible


----------



## BrjSan

Bon, i just would advise you next time to make your questions more tidy, that would help others to understand what is supposed to mean behind your questions.

Tell u about my use of coolant, i bough the mayhems pastel concentrate (250 ml), and yes it contains everything you need inside it, you only need to mix it with disstilled water as per instructions on the bottle it self and that is it.

Check the instructions of any concentrate you buy, usually written on the bottle, or on the manufacture website.

Follow the instructions and you are good to ho.

Sorry for any written mistake, ysing my mobile.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> I was watching jay, and he ran a gpu without water in the block to "test" that he put it together correctly.
> He claims that doesnt damage anything in nvidia cards. (It was getting around 30C)
> 
> Can you really run it like that? (For just dekstop work)
> I dont get how running it without any cooling is possible


sure you can. Why not? Block itself is transfering heat to coolant, but before that block itself has to get warm. Firing PC for a moment without coolant but block of metal will do nice. Some time ago i was firing CPU for boot tests without any cooler, just finger cooling







no problems at all.


----------



## mechanic2

Bundyman,
Wow, I'm kind of jealous. Just a little bit.
rich!


----------



## Bogga

Hey there my fellow watercoolians... right now I'm going with ordinary distilled water that I bought at the gas station and have added biocides and anti corrosives. But I'm planning a new build for this summer with a black and white theme and wanted to go with white fluid. White only seems to come as pastel, why is that? Biggest difference between pastel and dye? Concentrated or premixed?

https://www.caseking.de/en/mayhems-pastel-ice-white-1000ml-wazu-270.html
https://www.caseking.de/en/mayhems-pastel-konzentrat-ice-white-250ml-wazu-479.html
https://www.caseking.de/en/ek-water-blocks-ek-ekoolant-pastel-konzentrat-250ml-weiss-waek-898.html

https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-extreme-100ml/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml/ <--- or would this be the best solution?

Sorry if these questions have been answered previously somewhere else...


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
I went back and read a whole bunch of posts about various things. I saw some great looking components. What really caught my eye was the discussions about coolants and what to use. I am an expert on the various types of coolants. I was a Certified Master Automobile Technician for about 35 years. Where I worked I was known as the Technician's Technician. If nobody else could fix something they would bring it to me.
I have used a lot of different coolants over the years that are based on ethylene glycol. Modern coolants have an additive package that protects against corrosion, rust, and electrolysis damage. They also will not support the growth of any kind of biological specimens.They are safe for all metals and almost all plastics and rubbers. As has been brought up it is poisonous. Also brought up was the fact that it used to have a very sweet taste to it. This has changed and there is an additive that makes it unpalatable. Before this change was made it was common for pets to be poisoned and if a child found some they too would ingest it. It looked like a green or red fruit drink and it tasted good.
In fact farmers would use it to poison rats, mice, and raccoons. They would set out bowls of it around the perimeter of an area that they wanted to protect. Of course they had to insure that their own pets couldn't get to it. When it enters the blood stream the kidneys will filter it out. There it forms crystals that disrupts the functioning of the kidneys. This damage is permanent and irreversible. If it is caught in time the process can be stopped but the damage is already done. It is a very painful way to die. It was very common for women to use it to kill their husbands. Unless the authorities were looking for it it was easy to miss it in a routine autopsy.
Almost all automotive coolants are based on ethylene glycol. There are a few that are based on polypropylene but they are very hard to find and they sell for about twice what ethylene glycol sells for. Polypropylene is non-toxic. It is also known as agricultural antifreeze. Yes, ethylene glycol is dangerous to the environment and needs to be properly disposed of. Here in the states and I am sure this is true in Europe this isn't a problem. Most auto repair places will accept it with no problem. A lot of companies have equipment or has a company that comes by and restores the old coolant to like new specifications. Where I worked they actually owned the equipment to do this.
So what to use in our liquid cooling systems. I would never use just plain water in a system. Even distilled water is no good. It won't provide any protection against rust, corrosion, electrolysis, or biological growth. See water is known as the universal solvent. There is very little that won't dissolve in water. Also there is no way to keep germs and other bad things out of the water as you fill a system. The parts that you have handled are also contaminated. So eventually things will start growing in your system.
With the different kinds of metals that are being used in the components rust, corrosion, and electrolysis will eventually start to happen. As was brought up the zinc inserts will prevent biological growth but it will do nothing for the other problems. How long will it be before these problems take place? I don't know. There are a lot of factors involved. I have seen automotive cooling systems destroyed in 6 months, Of course they run a lot hotter than our systems.
So a coolant is called for. I would go with the recommendations of the manufacturers of your parts. I am sure that they have done a lot of testing to determine what is safe and works best. They have a vested interest in this. Just a few problems can cost them big time. If they do recommend automotive coolant I would use a coolant that is recommended by the automotive manufacturer. Again they have a vested interest in protecting their reputation.
I have found that Volvo coolant is the best. It is a pretty blue color. I would never use a coolant that is red. It hides rust and corrosion and other problems. Even though it is green I would never use Prestone. It has just enough additive in it to meet the government requirements. That is one of the reasons that it is cheaper than other coolants. And cheaper is the operative word here. How often should it changed. Again I would go with the manufacturers recommendations. A lot us do frequent upgrades and if the coolant is more than 6 months old I would replace it. Volvo coolant is good for 5 years between changes. GM has a coolant that is said to be good for the life of the car. I would change it occasionally. I personally would have no problem running a good automotive coolant for five years. If you are using the coolant that your parts maker recommends. I would go by their recommendations on how often to change it. Remember our systems run at a fraction of the temperature that automotive systems run at. That means that the chemical reactions occur much more slowly.
I know that there is a lot here but I wanted to clear up some things and there was a lot to cover. These are my opinions and I hope that the waters are less muddy than before.
Even though I am new to liquid cooling I believe that I have a lot to contribute. I have a very deep experience in the automotive fields. I also have am associate degree in engineering. I have been involved in electricity, electronics, computers, programming, house construction, wood working, fabrication, and building hot rods for decades.
Thanks,
rich!
P.S. One last thing. I noticed that shortly after I got my system back together and running the flow through the CPU blocks had dropped way off. I had a good idea of what had happened. Fortunately I don't have to drain the system to remove these blocks. When you turn the computer off the coolant drains out of the lines going to the CPU blocks. So I removed them and took them apart. Sure enough the first block was plugged up with a bunch of fuzz. The blockage was over 90%. The second block in the loop only had a tiny amount in it. The first block had filtered most of it out. I took some pictures but I can't upload them right now.
So I cleaned the junk out and put them back together. That fixed it. This was my fault. I have been recovering and reusing my coolant. I know, I know. You should not do that. Well sometimes you just have to do it. No matter how careful I was I could not keep everything out of the coolant. I just thought that I would bring this up.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## X-Nine

As somebody who went to school for and worked as a veterinary technician, I can tell you with certainty that ethylene glycol will kill an animal and there's nothing you can do but euthanize to prevent am extremely painful death from kidney failure.

When you watch as someone cries, holding their year old kitten that's having to be put down because of his, you'll learn a whole new appreciation for how dangerous this chemical is.

As far as the gunk, I had a whole bunch of it that stuck to the sides of a 250 EK res. Hot sauce, boiling it, lemon juice, vinegar, NOTHING took it off. That was a very expensive loss. And that was also the only time I ever used an ethylene glycol based coolant in any custom loop. I flushed the system, went back to distilled wih PTNuke, and didn't have any issue in the year+ it was running.

I've been a running distilled/mayhems for almost two years now in a different system without a flush, and have had no issues.


----------



## mechanic2

Xnine,
Yep, it is very dangerous. Fortunately with the bitter additive in it it is now unusual for an animal to drink. Yeah, it would be heart breaking. I know that it will be hard when I have to put Spider down. She is well but she is getting up there in years. I did this to my self. It had nothing to do with the coolant that I running. What coolant were you running when this happened to the EK parts? I'm glad that this works well but there is no way that I would run it water in it. What is a PTNuke? It nice living where we can choose.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Log is in the Siggy









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Why are people still dumping that crap in loops....

Di,a biocide and an anti corro is all you need,there is zero requirement for anything else,I have a rig with 4 years of 24/7 use and no maintenance,all with only the former in it.
Glycols are used in engines as the material compostion is 80% cast iron or Alu,not copper...

Best performance comes from water,here ends the lesson


----------



## X-Nine

Bitter agents aren't all that effective. I've seen both cats and dogs gnaw through bandaging with "the most effective" sprays in the market having been applied in large quantities. Some animals hate the taste, others don't care.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

few cheeky shots for upcoming Hyrbid build









http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/_DSC0947.jpg.html

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/_DSC0997_1.jpg.html

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/_DSC1016.jpg.html

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/_DSC1032.jpg.html


----------



## mechanic2

B Negative,
Automotive cooling systems have mostly Aluminum, some cast iron, and steel, lots of copper, zinc, some precious metals, rubber, and plastic. Hum, that sure sounds like what we are using. And all of this is being subjected to temperatures as high as 240 F Well over 100 degrees C. Personally I'll go with the coolant either manufacturer supplied and tested or automotive if they recommend it. I am glad that what you are using has worked well for you. I was just trying to put the facts out there so that others could make an informed decision.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## mechanic2

Orbital,
Nice!








rich!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> few cheeky shots for upcoming Hyrbid build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/_DSC0947.jpg.html


Any chance of more reservoir pictures? Saw these alphacool res's on aquatuning and would like some more pics before I get one


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Orbital,
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rich!


Hi rich, just some things you might want to know.

Double posting is generally not very appreciated on this and most other forums. Unless its your own thread, try to use the edit function instead to add what you wanted to say to the previous one.

If your have very large amounts of text you might want to consider putting part of it in a spoiler tag, this way your post doesn't take up as much space and makes viewing pages easier for the rest, especially those on mobile.

There's also an @mention and quote function, which are handy when you are replying to people.
Edit: Also, something that's often forgotten, when quoting a post with images, try to spoiler tag or remove the images from the quote.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Any chance of more reservoir pictures? Saw these alphacool res's on aquatuning and would like some more pics before I get one


got a few DSLR ones stitched together, havent got around to loading them on the Build Thread yet though









hope these helps at least

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160502_122729.jpg.html

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160502_113638.jpg.html


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> As somebody who went to school for and worked as a veterinary technician, I can tell you with certainty that ethylene glycol will kill an animal and there's nothing you can do but euthanize to prevent am extremely painful death from kidney failure.
> 
> When you watch as someone cries, holding their year old kitten that's having to be put down because of his, you'll learn a whole new appreciation for how dangerous this chemical is.
> 
> As far as the gunk, I had a whole bunch of it that stuck to the sides of a 250 EK res. Hot sauce, boiling it, lemon juice, vinegar, NOTHING took it off. That was a very expensive loss. And that was also the only time I ever used an ethylene glycol based coolant in any custom loop. I flushed the system, went back to distilled wih PTNuke, and didn't have any issue in the year+ it was running.
> 
> I've been a running distilled/mayhems for almost two years now in a different system without a flush, and have had no issues.


Does the mayhems pastel coolants use this ethylene glycol? Now your freaking me out. I've spilt some over the couple of months here and there on my carpets. I've always tried my best to clean it up. If so, I'll need to go back and clean up my whole carpet just to be extra sure.


----------



## VSG

Ever wondered what's inside a quick disconnect fitting? Here's the Koolance QD3 insert (with compression fitting on the other end):



















and here's the QD3 body:



















The Alphacool Eizapfen QDCs are similar, but not identical. No real surprise given they are both licensing the same patent:



















The two being able to couple together is also no surprise, although I bet neither likes it or will support this hybrid usage:


















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does the mayhems pastel coolants use this ethylene glycol? Now your freaking me out. I've spilt some over the couple of months here and there on my carpets. I've always tried my best to clean it up. If so, I'll need to go back and clean up my whole carpet just to be extra sure.


No, it does not.


----------



## FXformat

$250 worth of fittings and adapters right here





The EK 90s does not match my Bitspower C89 in color or grip design...the Barrow one match perfectly..so im gonna sell the EKs, only got 4 of them.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Bitter agents aren't all that effective. I've seen both cats and dogs gnaw through bandaging with "the most effective" sprays in the market having been applied in large quantities. Some animals hate the taste, others don't care.


I have two dogs and one cannot stand citronella ... you can get him to stop barking just by showing him the bark collar. The other one doesn't care and will just back through the cloud of citronella.


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## TTheuns

As much as I appreciate the big warning about coolant and pets not mixing well, it has gone off topic by now.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> As much as I appreciate the big warning about coolant and pets not mixing well, it has gone off topic by now.


I don't think so.... This is a watercooling thread, and coolant is used for watercooling. I'd rather be aware of the chemicals I'm using around my pets, than not knowing and hurting them.


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I don't think so.... This is a watercooling thread, and coolant is used for watercooling. I'd rather be aware of the chemicals I'm using around my pets, than not knowing and hurting them.


NO this is starting to get a little off topic and if you dont know that a great deal of coolants can be toxic if ingested you really should start paying attention to what you are doing. People need to not be lazy and think/research for themselves a bit more and thats all im going to say on this subject


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> B Negative,
> Automotive cooling systems have mostly Aluminum, some cast iron, and steel, lots of copper, zinc, some precious metals, rubber, and plastic. Hum, that sure sounds like what we are using. And all of this is being subjected to temperatures as high as 240 F Well over 100 degrees C. Personally I'll go with the coolant either manufacturer supplied and tested or automotive if they recommend it. I am glad that what you are using has worked well for you. I was just trying to put the facts out there so that others could make an informed decision.
> Thanks,
> rich!


Sounds nothing like it tbh,there is no Alu,Cast iron etc.

The amount of copper in the automotive system is not enough to make a penny.....

So,we can safely say they have no relation to the single metal or Copper/Nickle loops we have here. Cast iron in itself will rust in the presence of oxygen and will rust aggressively,Alu corrodes with pretty much everything..Copper and nickle do neither of these things.

The facts are that an automotive coolant is not required and will lead to degraded performance. If you choose to use one then all well and good but they are far from suitable for a watercooling loop.

The closest market product for our use is CH inhibitors such as Sentinel X100 and the like.

http://www.sentinelprotects.com/uk/products/domestic/central-heating-systems/sentinel-x100-inhibitor

Just on a side note,no WC manufacturer that I know of recommend any automotive coolants.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> NO this is starting to get a little off topic and if you dont know that a great deal of coolants can be toxic if ingested you really should start paying attention to what you are doing. People need to not be lazy and think/research for themselves a bit more and thats all im going to say on this subject


No,its not.

Its very much on topic (if a little beaten to death over the years....)


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its very much on topic (if a little beaten to death over the years....)


You are right, I guess im just tired of some topics/issues that never seem to end where all that is needed is a little homework and common sense on the users side.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> You are right, I guess im just tired of some topics/issues that never seem to end where all that is needed is a little homework and common sense on the users side.


I just did my homework. That's why I asked. Now that's common sense.


----------



## lowfat

100% distilled for me for now on. All the pastels I used eventually broke down causing serious amounts of cleaning/scrubbing/polishing to remove the residue from the pipes, reservoir, blocks, etc. All the non-pastel dyes I used would fade significantly if used long term. I used an entire bottle of deep blue in my last system, after a year it was barely even blue in colour. The blocks definitely were stained and required polishing to remove it from the nickel. IMO you can make look rigs good w/o dye.

Shamelessly inserting rig pic.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 100% distilled for me for now on. All the pastels I used eventually broke down causing serious amounts of cleaning/scrubbing/polishing to remove the residue from the pipes, reservoir, blocks, etc. All the non-pastel dyes I used would fade significantly if used long term. I used an entire bottle of deep blue in my last system, after a year it was barely even blue in colour. The blocks definitely were stained and required polishing to remove it from the nickel. IMO you can make look rigs good w/o dye.
> 
> Shamelessly inserting rig pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful rig, no need to run any coloured coolants if you sleeve your tubes. I might look into doing that...


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 100% distilled for me for now on. All the pastels I used eventually broke down causing serious amounts of cleaning/scrubbing/polishing to remove the residue from the pipes, reservoir, blocks, etc. All the non-pastel dyes I used would fade significantly if used long term. I used an entire bottle of deep blue in my last system, after a year it was barely even blue in colour. The blocks definitely were stained and required polishing to remove it from the nickel. IMO you can make look rigs good w/o dye.
> 
> Shamelessly inserting rig pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love the sleeve in that build. It served as a bit of inspiration for the color combo i'm using to sleeve the psu/peripherals with soon. I wasn't sold on the mdpc grand bleu until i saw it. I think once i get to experience the amount of cleaning it'll take to get the blue pastel out of my system i'll be on the DI water bandwagon. We'll see what it looks like at the end of august when i break it down for maintenance and some other changes. Or maybe i'll just keep using blue pastel so i never have to put a ton of effort into cleaning.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> *100% distilled for me for now on.* All the pastels I used eventually broke down causing serious amounts of cleaning/scrubbing/polishing to remove the residue from the pipes, reservoir, blocks, etc. All the non-pastel dyes I used would fade significantly if used long term. I used an entire bottle of deep blue in my last system, after a year it was barely even blue in colour. The blocks definitely were stained and required polishing to remove it from the nickel. IMO you can make look rigs good w/o dye.
> 
> Shamelessly inserting rig pic.


It was always this way for me,after the recent trials of Pastel (7 months then massive sedimentation) and Aurora (lasted less than a week....) I will be going back to it with no regrets.

And there is never a need to worry about posting that rig,it was one of your best in terms of detailing.


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, I don't run dyes or pastels either. Plus, I'm lazy, the longer I can go without needing to clean something the better.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I don't think so.... This is a watercooling thread, and coolant is used for watercooling. I'd rather be aware of the chemicals I'm using around my pets, than not knowing and hurting them.


And I agree.
This knowledge could save people a lot of grief.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,its not.
> 
> Its very much on topic (if a little beaten to death over the years....)


Right on.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 100% distilled for me for now on. All the pastels I used eventually broke down causing serious amounts of cleaning/scrubbing/polishing to remove the residue from the pipes, reservoir, blocks, etc. All the non-pastel dyes I used would fade significantly if used long term. I used an entire bottle of deep blue in my last system, after a year it was barely even blue in colour. The blocks definitely were stained and required polishing to remove it from the nickel. IMO you can make look rigs good w/o dye.
> 
> Shamelessly inserting rig pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've had the same issues using dyes and pastel over the years, and am going back to straight distilled for my loop rebuild.
Now, I'm concerned about the potential hazards of E.G., and using 100% distilled sounds like a good, safe plan.


----------



## wevsspot

I just recently performed some annual maintenance on my loop as well. Went back with straight distilled water and silver coil this time.

Tired of messing with the colored stuff.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 100% distilled for me for now on. All the pastels I used eventually broke down causing serious amounts of cleaning/scrubbing/polishing to remove the residue from the pipes, reservoir, blocks, etc. All the non-pastel dyes I used would fade significantly if used long term. I used an entire bottle of deep blue in my last system, after a year it was barely even blue in colour. The blocks definitely were stained and required polishing to remove it from the nickel. IMO you can make look rigs good w/o dye.
> 
> Shamelessly inserting rig pic.


That sleeving







looks beautiful.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> B Negative,
> Automotive cooling systems have mostly Aluminum, some cast iron, and steel, *lots of copper*, zinc, *some precious metals*, rubber, and plastic. Hum, that sure sounds like what we are using. And all of this is being subjected to temperatures as high as 240 F Well over 100 degrees C. Personally I'll go with the coolant either manufacturer supplied and tested or automotive if they recommend it. I am glad that what you are using has worked well for you. I was just trying to put the facts out there so that others could make an informed decision.
> Thanks,
> rich!


Um NO! there is ZERO copper in the water jackets of an Engine. Steel yes. Aluminum TONS including the block and sometimes the Thermostat housing and water pump, but NO Radiator should contain Copper. They will have Brass and Aluminum almost exclusively. There are Steel and Aluminum Radiators. But no copper.









And for the hardliners, you simply should NEVER use the stuff. If you're a tinkerer(like most water coolers) then I wouldn't even run it with flex tubing at all. Because guys like me are always wanting to check out new things. I'm glad that I found out early in the process not to use the stuff. Not that I would anyway, but I do tinker.









~Ceadder


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Um NO! there is ZERO copper in the water jackets of an Engine. Steel yes. Aluminum TONS including the block and sometimes the Thermostat housing and water pump, but NO Radiator should contain Copper. They will have Brass and Aluminum almost exclusively. There are Steel and Aluminum Radiators. But no copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the hardliners, you simply should NEVER use the stuff. If you're a tinkerer(like most water coolers) then I wouldn't even run it with flex tubing at all. Because guys like me are always wanting to check out new things. I'm glad that I found out early in the process not to use the stuff. Not that I would anyway, but I do tinker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The no copper statment is not 100% accurate. Some high compression and some boosted engines come with copper head gaskets. These gaskets are exposed to the cooling fluid. Granted it is a small area of exposure, but it is still exposed. Usually you need special coolant for these. In race cars they typically run straight water. Kinda depends on the internals of the cooling system.


----------



## Bogga

Any of you know how long it took Ek to release blocks for the 980 after launch?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Um NO! there is ZERO copper in the water jackets of an Engine. Steel yes. Aluminum TONS including the block and sometimes the Thermostat housing and water pump, but NO Radiator should contain Copper. They will have Brass and Aluminum almost exclusively. There are Steel and Aluminum Radiators. But no copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the hardliners, you simply should NEVER use the stuff. If you're a tinkerer(like most water coolers) then I wouldn't even run it with flex tubing at all. Because guys like me are always wanting to check out new things. I'm glad that I found out early in the process not to use the stuff. Not that I would anyway, but I do tinker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> The no copper statment is not 100% accurate. High compression and some boosted engines come with copper head gaskets. These gaskets are exposed to the cooling fluid. Granted it is a small area of exposure, but it is still exposed. Usually you need special coolant for these. In race cars they typically run straight water. Kinda depends on the internals of the cooling system.


Neither is the engine block being aluminium. Many turbocharged engine, are cast iron blocks.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Neither is the engine block being aluminium. Many turbocharged engine, are cast iron blocks.


Yup. My old DSM 1GA (well, all 4G63T) engine are iron block/alum heads.

Damn, i miss that car


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Um NO! there is ZERO copper in the water jackets of an Engine. Steel yes. Aluminum TONS including the block and sometimes the Thermostat housing and water pump, but NO Radiator should contain Copper. They will have Brass and Aluminum almost exclusively. There are Steel and Aluminum Radiators. But no copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the hardliners, you simply should NEVER use the stuff. If you're a tinkerer(like most water coolers) then I wouldn't even run it with flex tubing at all. Because guys like me are always wanting to check out new things. I'm glad that I found out early in the process not to use the stuff. Not that I would anyway, but I do tinker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> The no copper statment is not 100% accurate. High compression and some boosted engines come with copper head gaskets. These gaskets are exposed to the cooling fluid. Granted it is a small area of exposure, but it is still exposed. Usually you need special coolant for these. In race cars they typically run straight water. Kinda depends on the internals of the cooling system.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Neither is the engine block being aluminium. Many turbocharged engine, are cast iron blocks.
Click to expand...

Copper head gaskets have steel rings crimped into each opening. So YES it's 100% accurate.

Most imports and domestics run Aluminum blocks. But I had no issue with the Cast Iron portion of his statement. Having worked at the counter of a Parts distributor, I know full well what is and isn't run in a vehicle engine compartment. Just pointing out that the belief is short sighted because our community doesn't need to be led to believe that what is good for the Automotive industry is good for ours.

Especially when Distilled water does a better job transferring heat and is 5x cheaper.









~Ceadder


----------



## steadly2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> The no copper statment is not 100% accurate. Some high compression and some boosted engines come with copper head gaskets. These gaskets are exposed to the cooling fluid. Granted it is a small area of exposure, but it is still exposed. Usually you need special coolant for these. In race cars they typically run straight water. Kinda depends on the internals of the cooling system.


I had a copper head gasket on my motor (4g64 boosted) with an iron block and aluminum head, lol. Never thought about it. It was just something that looked like one more cool thing, also it was available in variable thicknesses and could allow for more clearance between the piston and valves, and change the compression ratio a tad. I think it was available from 1-2.5mm. Never had a problem with it.







No special coolant used, and never had a problem running 25psi. Been that way for a few years until I sold it about 2 weeks ago.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Copper head gaskets have steel rings crimped into each opening. So YES it's 100% accurate.
> 
> Most imports and domestics run Aluminum blocks. But I had no issue with the Cast Iron portion of his statement. Having worked at the counter of a Parts distributor, I know full well what is and isn't run in a vehicle engine compartment. Just pointing out that the belief is short sighted because our community doesn't need to be led to believe that what is good for the Automotive industry is good for ours.
> 
> Especially when Distilled water does a better job transferring heat and is 5x cheaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


BTW the copper head gasket I had didn't have any steel rings from what I remember, but its been many years since I had the motor built. Not trying to contradict you.







And I do agree that what is run in a car isn't necessarily good for computer components.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Copper head gaskets have steel rings crimped into each opening. So YES it's 100% accurate.
> 
> Most imports and domestics run Aluminum blocks. But I had no issue with the Cast Iron portion of his statement. Having worked at the counter of a Parts distributor, I know full well what is and isn't run in a vehicle engine compartment. Just pointing out that the belief is short sighted because our community doesn't need to be led to believe that what is good for the Automotive industry is good for ours.
> 
> Especially when Distilled water does a better job transferring heat and is 5x cheaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not all have that. The copper gaskets we used on the 350 rebuild in my truck just have the copper crush seals. The 2.2 ECOtec in my now gone autox car, same thing. Just copper crush seals. The uprated copper gaskets for my old 87 944, crush gaskets. All of these had no steel rings.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Neither is the engine block being aluminium. Many turbocharged engine, are cast iron blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Yup. My old DSM 1GA (well, all 4G63T) engine are iron block/alum heads.
> 
> Damn, i miss that car


Eclipse GS-T is on my list of cars to own for sure
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Copper head gaskets have steel rings crimped into each opening. So YES it's 100% accurate.
> 
> Most imports and domestics run Aluminum blocks. But I had no issue with the Cast Iron portion of his statement. Having worked at the counter of a Parts distributor, I know full well what is and isn't run in a vehicle engine compartment. Just pointing out that the belief is short sighted because our community doesn't need to be led to *believe that what is good for the Automotive industry is good for ours.*
> 
> Especially when Distilled water does a better job transferring heat and is 5x cheaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This is 100% true.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Copper head gaskets have steel rings crimped into each opening. So YES it's 100% accurate.
> 
> Most imports and domestics run Aluminum blocks. But I had no issue with the Cast Iron portion of his statement. Having worked at the counter of a Parts distributor, I know full well what is and isn't run in a vehicle engine compartment. Just pointing out that the belief is short sighted because our community doesn't need to be led to believe that what is good for the Automotive industry is good for ours.
> 
> Especially when Distilled water does a better job transferring heat and is 5x cheaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all have that. The copper gaskets we used on the 350 rebuild in my truck just have the copper crush seals. The 2.2 ECOtec in my now gone autox car, same thing. Just copper crush seals. The uprated copper gaskets for my old 87 944, crush gaskets. All of these had no steel rings.
Click to expand...

Likely MrGasket(maybe another brand idk as I wasn't there







) head gaskets and as such are meant for High Performance application. FelPro and other commonly sourced gaskets meant for the street do. Yes there are deviations from what I mentioned, but those deviations are typical of high performance kit.









I simply don't recommend using Glycol for a host of reasons that have been beat to death on OCN.









~Ceadder


----------



## mechanic2

Ceadder,
Yes, there are automobiles with aluminum radiators but there are automobiles with copper radiators and almost all automobiles have copper heater cores. So what I posted earlier is correct. I know what I am talking about. If you don't want to use it that is fine. You don't have to. I just wanted the facts to be out there so that others could make an informed decision.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Um NO! there is ZERO copper in the water jackets of an Engine. Steel yes. Aluminum TONS including the block and sometimes the Thermostat housing and water pump, but NO Radiator should contain Copper. They will have Brass and Aluminum almost exclusively. There are Steel and Aluminum Radiators. But no copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the hardliners, you simply should NEVER use the stuff. If you're a tinkerer(like most water coolers) then I wouldn't even run it with flex tubing at all. Because guys like me are always wanting to check out new things. I'm glad that I found out early in the process not to use the stuff. Not that I would anyway, but I do tinker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Ceadder,
> Yes, there are automobiles with aluminum radiators but there are automobiles with copper radiators and almost all automobiles have copper heater cores. So what I posted earlier is correct. I know what I am talking about. If you don't want to use it that is fine. You don't have to. I just wanted the facts to be out there so that others could make an informed decision.
> Thanks,
> rich!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Um NO! there is ZERO copper in the water jackets of an Engine. Steel yes. Aluminum TONS including the block and sometimes the Thermostat housing and water pump, but NO Radiator should contain Copper. They will have Brass and Aluminum almost exclusively. There are Steel and Aluminum Radiators. But no copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the hardliners, you simply should NEVER use the stuff. If you're a tinkerer(like most water coolers) then I wouldn't even run it with flex tubing at all. Because guys like me are always wanting to check out new things. I'm glad that I found out early in the process not to use the stuff. Not that I would anyway, but I do tinker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Normally I do not resort to Wikipedia, but ...

"A heater core is a small radiator, located under the dashboard of the vehicle and consists of conductive aluminium or brass tubing with cooling fins to increase surface area. Hot coolant passing through the heater core gives off heat before returning to the engine cooling circuit."

Fins can be copper but in my experience aluminum is primarily used as it's cheaper than Copper and does the job the same.










~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Can someone post a picture of something that looks like it might be seen in a water cooled PC? No pictures of pets, poisoning, cars (with or without copper).


----------



## mechanic2

B Negative,
A lot of automobiles have copper radiators and most of them have copper or a copper alloy heater cores. Yes, some have aluminum cores. As far as I know no manufacturer uses steel radiators or heater cores. Steel is a poor conductor of heat compared to copper and aluminum and it is very heavy. Almost all engine blocks made with iron are an alloy with nickel in them. Yes, Ethylene Glycol is very toxic. Please everyone look at the modifiers and wiki is not the end all of everything. The info is only as good as what was put in. I am ending this discussion here. I will not be responding to any more posts on this subject. I gave my qualifications at the start. I have worked on cars from A to the end of the alphabet. Again I put this out there so that others could make an informed decision. AquaComputers recommends their Double Protect Ultra or Automotive Coolant. I covered this in the original post.
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds nothing like it tbh,there is no Alu,Cast iron etc.
> 
> The amount of copper in the automotive system is not enough to make a penny.....
> 
> So,we can safely say they have no relation to the single metal or Copper/Nickle loops we have here. Cast iron in itself will rust in the presence of oxygen and will rust aggressively,Alu corrodes with pretty much everything..Copper and nickle do neither of these things.
> 
> The facts are that an automotive coolant is not required and will lead to degraded performance. If you choose to use one then all well and good but they are far from suitable for a watercooling loop.
> 
> The closest market product for our use is CH inhibitors such as Sentinel X100 and the like.
> 
> http://www.sentinelprotects.com/uk/products/domestic/central-heating-systems/sentinel-x100-inhibitor
> 
> Just on a side note,no WC manufacturer that I know of recommend any automotive coolants.
> No,its not.
> 
> Its very much on topic (if a little beaten to death over the years....)


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> B Negative,
> A lot of automobiles have copper radiators and most of them have copper or a copper alloy heater cores. Yes, some have aluminum cores. As far as I know no manufacturer uses steel radiators or heater cores. Steel is a poor conductor of heat compared to copper and aluminum and it is very heavy. Almost all engine blocks made with iron are an alloy with nickel in them. Yes, Ethylene Glycol is very toxic. Please everyone look at the modifiers and wiki is not the end all of everything. The info is only as good as what was put in. I am ending this discussion here. I will not be responding to any more posts on this subject. *I gave my qualifications at the start*. I have worked on cars from A to the end of the alphabet. Again I put this out there so that others could make an informed decision. AquaComputers recommends their Double Protect Ultra or Automotive Coolant. I covered this in the original post.
> rich!


So being that I'm an ASE certified technician that also means I'm an expert in PC water cooling? No it does not and I'm not naive enough to think I have the knowledge that applies to that subject. I'm not an expert just because a car and a computer can be cooled by a liquid. There is a lot of smart people in this thread and the PC cooling community as a whole and I recommend you consult them and do some research of your own that actually applies to the subject at hand.


----------



## Benjiw

Check this out for giggles.

https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/591884-flow-reversal/


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Check this out for giggles.
> 
> https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/591884-flow-reversal/


He's got his CPU block reversed and if his temps are good in AIDA 64 stress test maybe it means it's not so critical on the evo block.

Hey EK support folk, can you comment?


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Can someone post a picture of something that looks like it might be seen in a water cooled PC? No pictures of pets, poisoning, cars (with or without copper).


NO doubt. Who the .... cares about all this non-sense. Let see some PC pictures please.

Jeez. Just kill all the animals and be done with it. Kidding... Kidding...

We can kill babies in this country, but don't kill the animals, OMG... that would be taking it too far. Babies are fine though. (extreme sarcasm)

Whatever...

back to pictures please.


----------



## hidethecookies




----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*


THANK YOU!!!!

nice man. Nice.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> THANK YOU!!!!
> 
> nice man. Nice.


That is my 290x Lightning with Bitspower block. Here's a pic of my old 780 sitting on top of it. I thought the 290x was big till I got the block that thing is enormous. I'm glad my mobo sits horizontal in my case I'd be afraid of the pcie slot breaking.


Here's that beautiful Lightning pcb.


----------



## KG101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does the mayhems pastel coolants use this ethylene glycol? Now your freaking me out.


Pretty sue pastels and aurora are the veggieblend , but Xt-1 is the mayhem's carrying it. For sure.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KG101*
> 
> Pretty sue pastels and aurora are the veggieblend , but Xt-1 is the mayhem's carrying it. For sure.


Pastel is Zinc Oxide, X1 is veggieblend, but XT-1 is Glycol


----------



## prznar1

Is it hard to install hard tubing?


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Is it hard to install hard tubing?


Harder than flexible tubing, since it's rigid you can't bend it when installing in tight spots. Still very managable. Not nearly as hard as jamming an 8 pin connector for a CPU in between a case, motherboard and H105


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Is it hard to install hard tubing?


It requires some time and patience, but I wouldn't call it difficult. Just make sure to get quite a bit more than you need so you can make mistakes, especially if its your first time.


----------



## SteezyTN

So as everyone knows, I've been having very low flow rates. Radiators aren't the issue, and my CPU block isn't the issue. I decided to get 10 Bitspower dual rotary 90 degree fittings (which are basically two 45's) because I got them used from someone in the marketplace for a great price. I'm going to place one on each inlet and out, as well as all the places that I need them throughout the loop.

I understand everyone has different opinions about 90's and pumps, but something just doesn't add up with my setup. I'm going to test the dual 90's on the pump when I get them, and I'll update everyone, so that someone can benefit from this. I'm trying to make a quiet PC, and something is right.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So as everyone knows, I've been having very low flow rates. Radiators aren't the issue, and my CPU block isn't the issue. I decided to get 10 Bitspower dual rotary 90 degree fittings (which are basically two 45's) because I got them used from someone in the marketplace for a great price. I'm going to place one on each inlet and out, as well as all the places that I need them throughout the loop.
> 
> I understand everyone has different opinions about 90's and pumps, but something just doesn't add up with my setup. I'm going to test the dual 90's on the pump when I get them, and I'll update everyone, so that someone can benefit from this. I'm trying to make a quiet PC, and something is right.


Is it possible your radiators are clogged up a bit?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Is it possible your radiators are clogged up a bit?


It's possible, but unlikely. When I took out my 360 rad and flushed it to get it ready for shipping, there didn't appear to be any clogging.


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
Because of the viciousness of the attacks and foul language and the assumption that I haven't done any research let alone the uncounted hours that I have done so and the opinions that are being presented as facts I am leaving. I don't need this.
GOD bless all of you.
Good bye.
rich!


----------



## emsj86

Just state your facts or beliefs and if someone disagrees so be it. The horse is dead guys


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> Because of the viciousness of the attacks and foul language and the assumption that I haven't done any research let alone the uncounted hours that I have done so and the opinions that are being presented as facts I am leaving. I don't need this.
> GOD bless all of you.
> Good bye.
> rich!


This is a great lost for our community.


----------



## BrjSan

@mechanic2 But i could not see any body attacked you and no body disrespected you.

Sometimes people interact and sometimes they ignore, it is pretty the nature of any forum.

Peace


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> Because of the viciousness of the attacks and foul language and the assumption that I haven't done any research let alone the uncounted hours that I have done so and the opinions that are being presented as facts I am leaving. I don't need this.
> GOD bless all of you.
> Good bye.
> rich!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just state your facts or beliefs and if someone disagrees so be it. The horse is dead guys


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> Because of the viciousness of the attacks and foul language and the assumption that I haven't done any research let alone the uncounted hours that I have done so and the opinions that are being presented as facts I am leaving. I don't need this.
> GOD bless all of you.
> Good bye.
> rich!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> This is a great lost for our community.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> Because of the viciousness of the attacks and foul language and the assumption that I haven't done any research let alone the uncounted hours that I have done so and the opinions that are being presented as facts I am leaving. I don't need this.
> GOD bless all of you.
> Good bye.
> rich!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> @mechanic2 But i could not see any body attacked you and no body disrespected you.
> 
> Sometimes people interact and sometimes they ignore, it is pretty the nature of any forum.
> 
> Peace


I must have missed something. What did I miss? C'mon, what happened? Did they clean the forum and delete something again? Man, they are getting bad about that these days. Seems we get mad or have our feelings hurt so easy these days. (me included, I'm not judging here)


----------



## emsj86

On side note who knew TCO also owned a fly shop...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> I must have missed something. What did I miss? C'mon, what happened? Did they clean the forum and delete something again? Man, they are getting bad about that these days. Seems we get mad or have our feelings hurt so easy these days. (me included, I'm not judging here)


No clue myself. I been reading the posts since I was finding the info pretty interesting read. I don't really recall anyone attacking anyone in a disrespectful manner. Unless some mods be a ninjaing stuff again. Or maybe someone sending PMs to him and being rude?

I usually just read just without trying to read emotion in it since written words are not good at conveying such.


----------



## OverSightX

So how about those watercooled rigs???


----------



## Ithanul

Hehe, I get my folder rig posted some time later. Right now still away from the rigs for another week. Then I get back, the folder going into a rebuild with water cooling goodness to be done to it.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> On side note who knew TCO also owned a fly shop...


He is pretty fly...you know, for a white guy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> Because of the viciousness of the attacks and foul language and the assumption that I haven't done any research let alone the uncounted hours that I have done so and the opinions that are being presented as facts I am leaving. I don't need this.
> GOD bless all of you.
> Good bye.
> rich!


Flaming out so soon?

I didnt see any attacks nor foul language,I urge you to report these posts. I think there is a good measure of butthurt in this.

Shame.

EDIT: You are still here 2 hours later,im thinking you are just looking for a reaction.....


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flaming out so soon?
> 
> I didnt see any attacks nor foul language,I urge you to report these posts. I think there is a good measure of butthurt in this.
> 
> Shame.
> 
> EDIT: You are still here 2 hours later,im thinking you are just looking for a reaction.....


Maybe he meant leaving this thread


----------



## mechanic2

BrjSan and et al,
Because you asked in a nice way I decided to answer your question. These people were being very disrespectful in the fact that they were stating things that were just plain wrong. They assumed that I hadn't done any research on the subject of computer liquid cooling and that I knew nothing about automobile technology. I have the experience and knowledge about it that is the equivalent of a Doctor of Automobile Technology. I also have a background in chemistry, physics, astrophysics, astronomy, electronics, electricity as applied to home wiring, computer science, and there are others. In the US this is known as a jack of all trades and a master of none. Yes, I am new to liquid cooling computers but I learn very quickly and I remember most of what I read. More important I remember where to find the info when I need it and I am able to apply what I read to what I am trying to do.
It was obvious that these people had not read my complete post and they were stating things that just weren't true. They are the ones that need to go back and do a bunch of research. I ended this thread but some others kept up the garbage. So I decided to leave. Maybe my skin is on the light side but I am willing to admit when I am wrong. When I know that I am right I will dig in and I become the immovable object. I will reconsider coming back. All that I ask is that others show me the same consideration that they want for themselves. I.E. read the complete post and do the research. I just wanted to help and I felt that I was well qualified to speak on this. Just because I am new doesn't mean that I don't know anything.
This is how I felt. I also will state when something is my opinion and when something is a fact. Facts can't be wrong. Opinions can be wrong. If mine is I will admit it and change it.
Thanks,
rich!

Hello all,
I have not come back. But I felt that I owe some people an explanation and no I wasn't lurking around to get a reaction. I don't play those kind of games..
rich!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> BrjSan and et al,
> Because you asked in a nice way I decided to answer your question. These people were being very disrespectful in the fact that they were stating things that were just plain wrong. They assumed that I hadn't done any research on the subject of computer liquid cooling and that I knew nothing about automobile technology. I have the experience and knowledge about it that is the equivalent of a Doctor of Automobile Technology. I also have a background in chemistry, physics, astrophysics, astronomy, electronics, electricity as applied to home wiring, computer science, and there are others. In the US this is known as a jack of all trades and a master of none. Yes, I am new to liquid cooling computers but I learn very quickly and I remember most of what I read. More important I remember where to find the info when I need it and I am able to apply what I read to what I am trying to do.
> It was obvious that these people had not read my complete post and they were stating things that just weren't true. They are the ones that need to go back and do a bunch of research. I ended this thread but some others kept up the garbage. So I decided to leave. Maybe my skin is on the light side but I am willing to admit when I am wrong. When I know that I am right I will dig in and I become the immovable object. I will reconsider coming back. All that I ask is that others show me the same consideration that they want for themselves. I.E. read the complete post and do the research. I just wanted to help and I felt that I was well qualified to speak on this. Just because I am new doesn't mean that I don't know anything.
> This is how I felt. I also will state when something is my opinion and when something is a fact. Facts can't be wrong. Opinions can be wrong. If mine is I will admit it and change it.
> Thanks,
> rich!
> 
> Hello all,
> I have not come back. But I felt that I owe some people an explanation and no I wasn't lurking around to get a reaction. I don't play those kind of games..
> rich!


We dont do ego stroking here.

You are well qualified...for automotive cooling. This is not automotive cooling,the temps in use are much lower,the pressure is much lower and the materials used are much different.

I am a qualified plumber/HVAC engineer,does that make my comments any less or more valid than yours? Stop the sulking,its not the mark of reasonable people.


----------



## mechanic2

B Negative,
I don't expect it. The first and second items are true. Not so for the third. I'm tired of this.
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> We dont do ego stroking here.
> 
> You are well qualified...for automotive cooling. This is not automotive cooling,the temps in use are much lower,the pressure is much lower and the materials used are much different.
> 
> I am a qualified plumber/HVAC engineer,does that make my comments any less or more valid than yours? Stop the sulking,its not the mark of reasonable people.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> B Negative,
> I don't expect it. The first and second items are true. Not so for the third. *I'm tired of this*.
> rich!


Then dont post silly flameout posts for a reaction?

You are more than welcome to discuss anything you like but you _will_ have to accept that not everyone agrees with you. I do not take kindly to false accusations of foul language and 'attacks' because they do not agree with you.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverSightX*
> 
> So how about those watercooled rigs???


I seriously love the EVGA blocks. That logo looks so good when lit up!


----------



## paskowitz

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming...


----------



## DR4G00N

I just received my D5 Vario in the mail, holy cow! it's massive compared to my puny DC-LT







Just need to test it before I go and build my loop again.


----------



## LandonAaron

Looking to get 9 fan filters for my MO-RA3 420 radiator. I cleaned it out yesterday with my Data Vac duster and it filled the whole room with nasty dust. I think I would rather have a filter on the intake side, and be able to vacuum up the dust in the future. I can't seem to find any single filters that will fit a 420x420 rad though. Watercool make a grill for it, but its $50 and doesn't come with any filtering medium. Its purely aesthetic. So I am looking at individual 140mm filters to mount to each fan, and have narrowed down my choices to:

Akasa Aluminum 140mm Fan Filter.


or

SilverStone SP-FF143 Fan Filter for 140mm Fans


I already have two of the Akasa filters, which I have mounted, so I know they will fit mounting them on fans that are directly next to each other. The SilverStone looks to have better filtering medium though, but the aluminum frame at the edge of the filter looks a bit wider, and it doesn't have the slotted mounting holes like the Akasa filter. Which do yall believe is the superior filter? Will I have trouble mounting either of these filters on fans in a 3x3 grid with no space between each fan?


----------



## BWAS1000

What's out Opinion on the XSPC Ion Pump?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> What's out Opinion on the XSPC Ion Pump?


Here's a great review: http://thermalbench.com/2016/03/03/xspc-ion-pumpreservoir/


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Here's a great review: http://thermalbench.com/2016/03/03/xspc-ion-pumpreservoir/


I've read a review of it, but I'll take a look again. I'm asking here because I wanted opinions in reliability. Because the 750 pump got good reviews. But I know a lot of people don't like it because of reliability


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Looking to get 9 fan filters for my MO-RA3 420 radiator. I cleaned it out yesterday with my Data Vac duster and it filled the whole room with nasty dust. I think I would rather have a filter on the intake side, and be able to vacuum up the dust in the future. Will I have trouble mounting either of these filters on fans in a 3x3 grid with no space between each fan?


I've never used asaska's filter but I've used a few of the Silverstone in 120mm and they were a very close fit to the fan with no overhang so it shouldn't be a problem. I'm planning out some external rads right now and I plan on using a homemade filter (not sure out of what yet though)


----------



## Ceadderman

mechanic2...

I've worked in Auto Parts for a number of years. Sales. I had to open boxes to make certain my customers got the correct part they were looking for and I had to figure out/diagnose what parts they need based on their issues. I kept a 50% related sales average throughout my short time in the industry. I know what materials go into what parts and what typically do not. I haven't worked in the industry in over 10 years, and things do change over time. You don't know how many 6v or even 12v Generators I sold, even though Generators are no longer installed on Motors in this day and age. VW, Chrysler, GM and Ford. But the industry hasn't changed so much that it made my experience moot. I can get around in any parts house, get my stuff and be on my way pretty quickly without nary a hitch in my giddyup. Because I know what I need.

I can go into greater details, but or the sake of expediency I posted fairly short rebuttals to you and the others. It wasn't disrespectful in any way. Sorry if I rubbed you the wrong way, but you're approaching things as though water cooled computing is the same as automotive cooling. Short of a Radiator and Pump system, they couldn't further apart in difference. Our computers don't require Glycol, because they don't get near as hot as an internal combustion engine. Other than anti corrosive materials, glycol truly has no business being in a custom loop. That's not opinion, that's fact.

I posted the wiki quote(I hate wikipedia for the reasons you stated) because it mirrored MY knowledge on the subject. Not because it "proves you wrong" but because I do know what I am talking about. I could care less whether you agree with me or not. I won't get bootyhurt about it if people disagree with me. I think you may simply need to look closer at the material you work with. I know for a fact that some manufacturers resorted to tinting their aluminum construction parts. I do know that there are copper parts. However most of those parts are not meant for street use as they are high dollar and mom and pop middle class or low income customers cannot afford such parts consistently enough to run a superior product. And the manufacturers must understand this, considering all the aluminum Radiators and Heater cores on the market.









~Ceadder


----------



## DR4G00N

I'm very surprised about how quiet the D5 is, at setting 5 it's about as loud as the DC-LT @ 7V but with over 10x the flow rate (according to specs).









Size comparison between the two pumps.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I'm very surprised about how quiet the D5 is, at setting 5 it's about as loud as the DC-LT @ 7V but with over 10x the flow rate (according to specs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Size comparison between the two pumps.


Yeah, I used an EK D5 in my build and was super surprised about how quiet it was as well. I don't know why, but I was expecting it to be much louder.


----------



## taowulf

Disagreement is not disrespect. I respect Cadderman, even though he has a stick up his you know what about some things.









Dude needs to thicken his skin.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Disagreement is not disrespect. I respect Cadderman, even though he has a stick up his you know what about some things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude needs to thicken his skin.


Hey now, I have that stick and I will sell it to you cheap.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I just received my D5 Vario in the mail, holy cow! it's massive compared to my puny DC-LT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to test it before I go and build my loop again.


Do my Thumbscrew mod to it if you're mounting it in a cylinder res, you'll love me later on.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey now, I have that stick and I will sell it to you cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


Only if it is a 100% Free Trade, Tradmarked, and created lovingly by the hands of skilled artisans stick.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I just received my D5 Vario in the mail, holy cow! it's massive compared to my puny DC-LT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to test it before I go and build my loop again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do my Thumbscrew mod to it if you're mounting it in a cylinder res, you'll love me later on.
Click to expand...

I got my EK pump apart and awaiting the mod. Checked the knob and sure enough, it comes out easily. Although I have to say it's a PITA to get it back into the little + socket.









Just have to get a 3mm bit, and haven't gotten the opportunity yet. I live in a small town and shop 45min away.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey now, I have that stick and I will sell it to you cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only if it is a 100% Free Trade, Tradmarked, and created lovingly by the hands of skilled artisans stick.
Click to expand...

Considering I personally carved if from a wooden replica of the Commandments, I think it qualifies.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I got my EK pump apart and awaiting the mod. Checked the knob and sure enough, it comes out easily. Although I have to say it's a PITA to get it back into the little + socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just have to get a 3mm bit, and haven't gotten the opportunity yet. I live in a small town and shop 45min away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering I personally carved if from a wooden replica of the Commandments, I think it qualifies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


Haha do you have the pump free or is it still mounted? I had the pump loose so I just lined it up by eye, and turned it till it fell in that little mm extra. Going to be bleeding my loop soon once I get this acrylic bent and I'm so so soooooo glad I did the mod. Please post pics in the thread so other people can see how easy it is to do. The knob is made from soft plastic so its bliss to mod.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I got my EK pump apart and awaiting the mod. Checked the knob and sure enough, it comes out easily. Although I have to say it's a PITA to get it back into the little + socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just have to get a 3mm bit, and haven't gotten the opportunity yet. I live in a small town and shop 45min away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering I personally carved if from a wooden replica of the Commandments, I think it qualifies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha do you have the pump free or is it still mounted? I had the pump loose so I just lined it up by eye, and turned it till it fell in that little mm extra. Going to be bleeding my loop soon once I get this acrylic bent and I'm so so soooooo glad I did the mod. Please post pics in the thread so other people can see how easy it is to do. The knob is made from soft plastic so its bliss to mod.
Click to expand...

Pump is just sitting on the desk, with the cover slightly installed to make access quick and painless. I'm old which is why it's a PITA. Fingers aren't what they were back when I was in my 30s'.







lol

I will be posting before and after pics of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pump is just sitting on the desk, with the cover slightly installed to make access quick and painless. I'm old which is why it's a PITA. Fingers aren't what they were back when I was in my 30s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> I will be posting before and after pics of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah I see, yeah the little post on the side of it stops you from just slotting it back in unfortunatly but it also stops you from going too for turning it when installed in the dial.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Do my Thumbscrew mod to it if you're mounting it in a cylinder res, you'll love me later on.


That looks like it would be convenient but I'll probably just leave it on 5 because the fans would no doubt drown out the noise. And it will be sitting on a foam block so that'll reduce the noise even more.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Do my Thumbscrew mod to it if you're mounting it in a cylinder res, you'll love me later on.


and here I've been trying to turn the dial blind since it's sitting upright all this time. That's a pretty easy inventive mod! This is actually made my life super easy, I saw it when you first posted the mod but I was going to wait till I actually did it until I said something. I'm on my phone so I can't give a thumbs up but you get both. Oh and best part my phanteks enthoo primo came with like tons of extra thumb screws. Love that little box of screws they send with it. Dident even have to scavenge one from another case or go buy one!


----------



## DR4G00N

How does this loop look? I just finished bleeding it.
Pump > gpu > 240 rad > cpu > 360 rad > res > pump.


----------



## 0ldChicken

any input on the color differences between XSPC black chrome fittings and Bitspower Black Sparkle. Obviously they look a bit different in the pictures, but they can be deceiving.
I own a bunch of the linked xspc fittings but need some decent looking dual female 90° adapters to go with them because I think I'm going to try a build with no tube bending. Also do you think those two fittings would look good together? I can't decide. The bitspower 90° is 18mm dia and the xspc fittings are just over 23mm
@geggeg I know you posted some comparison shots recently of the two several brands but I can't find em for the life of me


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> any input on the color differences between XSPC black chrome fittings and Bitspower Black Sparkle. Obviously they look a bit different in the pictures, but they can be deceiving.
> I own a bunch of the linked xspc fittings but need some decent looking dual female 90° adapters to go with them because I think I'm going to try a build with no tube bending. Also do you think those two fittings would look good together? I can't decide. The bitspower 90° is 18mm dia and the xspc fittings are just over 23mm
> @geggeg I know you posted some comparison shots recently of the two several brands but I can't find em for the life of me


I have the xspc black chrome, ek black nickel, and bitspower black sparkle in my build and I can't tell the difference in finishes


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does this loop look? I just finished bleeding it.
> Pump > gpu > 240 rad > cpu > 360 rad > res > pump.


I would try going a bit more clean with my layout, since you don't need a radiator between each component.

maybe something like this: res>pump>GPU>CPU>360 rad>240 rad>res

Edit: or if you have enough fittings and want a very clean look, you could go parallel lines through the GPU block and to the CPU.

Edit2: I see you have filled it already... there is nothing wrong with going the way you did it's just not necessary unless you absolutely want to.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I have the xspc black chrome, ek black nickel, and bitspower black sparkle in my build and I can't tell the difference in finishes


SWEET! thanks


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> SWEET! thanks


Yep, no problem. When I get back home I'll try to take a picture.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Yep, no problem. When I get back home I'll try to take a picture.


that would be awesome and much appreciated!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does this loop look? I just finished bleeding it.
> Pump > gpu > 240 rad > cpu > 360 rad > res > pump.


Any reason why you set your front rads like that?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I would try going a bit more clean with my layout, since you don't need a radiator between each component.
> 
> maybe something like this: res>pump>GPU>CPU>360 rad>240 rad>res
> 
> Edit: or if you have enough fittings and want a very clean look, you could go parallel lines through the GPU block and to the CPU.
> 
> Edit2: I see you have filled it already... there is nothing wrong with going the way you did it's just not necessary unless you absolutely want to.


That's what I originally planned but the rads are too close together so I couldn't get the tube to bend without kinking. I only have straight barbs as well, I'll grab some 45's & 90's next time I buy something.
Makes it easy to work on though since I can just move the wc'ed components over to the side because of the long tubes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Any reason why you set your front rads like that?


Well, the original plan was to go from the 240 to the res but I ended up routing it a different way. It should allow more airflow too since the bottom fan isn't blocked by a rad.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> that would be awesome and much appreciated!


Its actually really hard to get a good picture since its buried in my case, but here it is.



The XSPC fitting is the T fitting, The Bitspower fittings are the male to male rotary, and the EK fittings are the 45s


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Its actually really hard to get a good picture since its buried in my case, but here it is.
> 
> The XSPC fitting is the T fitting, The Bitspower fittings are the male to male rotary, and the EK fittings are the 45s


excellent! thanks!


----------



## DR4G00N

Did some temp testing and it's running quite nicely.

Darkside LP 360
Alphacool ST30 240
Phobya UC2-LT
XSPC Razor GTX Titan/780/Ti Full Cover
D5 Vario @ 12V on Setting 5
X5670 (Delidded) @ 4.3GHz 1.375V
Zotac 780 Ti @ 1200MHz 1.212V + AIO cooled Gigabyte 780 Ti OC @ 1200MHz 1.212V

P95 Small FFT 5-10mins, CPU Core temps: 55c/60c/51c/55c/55c/52c

Aida 64 stress test, Core temps: 57c/62c/54c/58c/56c/54c

Assetto Corsa, Core temps: 40c/40c/36c/36c/35c/30c, GPU temp: 36c peak (Second gpu cooled by 120mm AIO peaked @ 51c for comparison).

The rads don't even get warm to the touch.









Now if only I could find an EK-FC 780 WF3 and some screws for my EK-FB EVGA Classified 4-SLI, then I'd be all set.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Did some temp testing and it's running quite nicely.
> 
> Darkside LP 360
> Alphacool ST30 240
> Phobya UC2-LT
> XSPC Razor GTX Titan/780/Ti Full Cover
> D5 Vario @ 12V on Setting 5
> X5670 (Delidded) @ 4.3GHz 1.375V
> Zotac 780 Ti @ 1200MHz 1.212V + AIO cooled Gigabyte 780 Ti OC @ 1200MHz 1.212V
> 
> P95 Small FFT 5-10mins, CPU Core temps: 55c/60c/51c/55c/55c/52c
> 
> Aida 64 stress test, Core temps: 57c/62c/54c/58c/56c/54c
> 
> Assetto Corsa, Core temps: 40c/40c/36c/36c/35c/30c, GPU temp: 36c peak (Second gpu cooled by 120mm AIO peaked @ 51c for comparison).
> 
> The rads don't even get warm to the touch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only I could find an EK-FC 780 WF3 and some screws for my EK-FB EVGA Classified 4-SLI, then I'd be all set.


UC2-LT treating you well? I wanted one, but didn't have enough money


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> UC2-LT treating you well? I wanted one, but didn't have enough money


Yeah, it's working great.
It was only $55 CAD but performs similar to blocks that are twice as much so I'm not going to complain. The trade off is that it's extremely restrictive compared to the more expensive blocks.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Yeah, it's working great.
> It was only $55 CAD but performs similar to blocks that are twice as much so I'm not going to complain. The trade off is that it's extremely restrictive compared to the more expensive blocks.


I got mine for £23 brand new







It was clear acrylic+nickel version. Did great job, better than Raystorm I had after that.


----------



## BWAS1000

Well its time to debate then. upgrade to a UC2 or something else. I think I want the Ion Res/pump though, so we'll see.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Well its time to debate then. upgrade to a UC2 or something else. I think I want the Ion Res/pump though, so we'll see.


how much you can get it for? if you can buy it cheaper than Supremacy Mx, alphacool nexxos sp3 then go for it. If it's more expensive where you live then I would get some EK, xspc or alphacool.
If you live in europe might wanna look into aquacomputer cuplex kryos as it's quite cheap and according to benchmarks it beats everything from EK,XSPC, Alphacool. I am debating on getting one for myself for next build.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> how much you can get it for? if you can buy it cheaper than Supremacy Mx, alphacool nexxos sp3 then go for it. If it's more expensive where you live then I would get some EK, xspc or alphacool.
> If you live in europe might wanna look into aquacomputer cuplex kryos as it's quite cheap and according to benchmarks it beats everything from EK,XSPC, Alphacool. I am debating on getting one for myself for next build.


Trinidad and Tobago, just north of Venezuela. that being said, I order from PPCs, so I can get it cheaper than both of those you listed.


----------



## Idef1x

I have posted some pictures of my rig before, but I hope you don't mind me spamming you guys


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Its actually really hard to get a good picture since its buried in my case, but here it is.
> 
> 
> 
> The XSPC fitting is the T fitting, The Bitspower fittings are the male to male rotary, and the EK fittings are the 45s


awesome idea







i know now where i can put my temperature ftting D lool cool


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> I have posted some pictures of my rig before, but I hope you don't mind me spamming you guy's?


Where did you get those gril covers for rads? Or did you make them?


----------



## SteezyTN

Changing up my loop. Really like these Bitspower 90 dual rotaries





I'm hoping the give me better flow that the direct XSPC 90 elbows.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> I have posted some pictures of my rig before, but I hope you don't mind me spamming you guys


Can i ask how much you spent on fittings? That's insane! you don't like bending the tubes?


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Where did you get those gril covers for rads? Or did you make them?


They are custom made by Coldzero







If you need something similar, he should still have the blueprints.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Can i ask how much you spent on fittings? That's insane! you don't like bending the tubes?


Yeah, that was quite expensive. They are all from Highflow, and the shipping is insane. Tbh I don't know much I spent, but anywhere from 350-450 USD is my guess. I bought them over a few orders, which added to the shipping costs.

This was my first build with hard tubes,and I have always been fascinated by builds that only used fittings,so I never really considered bending any tubes


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Where did you get those gril covers for rads? Or did you make them?
> 
> 
> 
> They are custom made by Coldzero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need something similar, he should still have the blueprints.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Can i ask how much you spent on fittings? That's insane! you don't like bending the tubes?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, that was quite expensive. They are all from Highflow, and the shipping is insane. Tbh I don't know much I spent, but anywhere from 320-450 USD is my guess. I just closed my eyes and pressed "buy"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first build with hard tubes,and I have always been fascinated by builds that only used fittings,so I never really considered bending any tubes
Click to expand...

Ricardo at Coldzero is a great guy, I bought many parts, and had work done there for a previous build.

As far as hard tubing goes, I like the "industrial" look of straight sections, with fittings for the bends, as you have done.
It really works well with your loop layout.








Yeah, the fittings are expensive, but what else is new, lol.
Not to knock anyone who has toiled for hours bending their tubing though.


----------



## kuchi




----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuchi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! I'm not usually a fan of UV builds, but I have to say you nailed it. I'd love some more info on what you have going on in there! Great job on that:thumb:


----------



## prznar1

I think its laser green, im going to have it







mayhems lazor green







after my aquatuning coolant went busted after plasticizer leak im going with dye.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> They are custom made by Coldzero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need something similar, he should still have the blueprints.
> Yeah, that was quite expensive. They are all from Highflow, and the shipping is insane. Tbh I don't know much I spent, but anywhere from 350-450 USD is my guess. I bought them over a few orders, which added to the shipping costs.
> 
> This was my first build with hard tubes,and I have always been fascinated by builds that only used fittings,so I never really considered bending any tubes


Awesome thanks buddy. Although he's in Europe if I'm not mistaken although I could be wrong. I wonder if shipping for those will be crazy expensive. It always is when I order from EK since I'm in the US.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Text and pics


Truly beautiful. Do you by any chance have any knowledge whatsoever when and if they'll have any chassis in stock. Been looking at the 80-version


----------



## kuchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Wow! I'm not usually a fan of UV builds, but I have to say you nailed it. I'd love some more info on what you have going on in there! Great job on that:thumb:


It is my first time to design the PC case by myself. I used the AL5052 plates thickness of 2mm, with laser cutting, bending, drilling, tapping, sand blasting, and anodic treatment processes to make it.
The case's dimension is L=364mm/W=229mm/H=363mm.

Other components are as below:
1. ASUS Maximus VII impact
2. ASUS STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5
3. EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
4. EK-FC970 GTX Strix - Nickel
5. EK-XRES 140 Revo D5
6. Bitspower fittings
7. Bitspower O.D. 12mm PETG tubes
8. Koolance HX-CU420V & HX-CU720V radiators
9. Mayhems UV Laser Green Dyes & pure water
10. Three Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 PWM fans


----------



## krutoydiesel

Borrowed a friends DSLR and tried my hand at taking some decent photos of my rig. Enjoy, I think.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## guitarhero23

People who have built rigs shown at Trade Shows or have been to trade shows with computers on display, how well do mods involving UV paints and fluid show up with the normal lights of the show?

I know it won't be the same as if it was dark in the room, just hoping it's good enough if you place the UV lights correctly.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Needs some view points please











as you can see, tight fit. Using 13/10mm fittings and soft tubing that alphacool sent me. Ive been told that the Push Pull on the 120mm makes a tight case look very cramped so left with some choice.
****in the picture the rad is blowing out, in build will actually be pulling in cold air. was just a placement pic ***

Keep the Push Pull set up - looks clustered and some plumbing work.

As i've just received the Twin Turbo cards, check to see if i can have push pull on the front and have the rear rad mounted to the case with the fan in pull, showing the blue brace like the front rad. Will also give more room for plumbing

If I cant manage push pull at the front then mount the fan to the case first having it as push, rad will be fanless mimicking the front rad but leaves same amount of plumbing room but a few more options for it.

what would you personally do, whether push/pull will work at the front or not??

just realised that unlike the white version I built, this one is starting to go for performance more then looks.. mmm


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all









Just a quick question, how much does radiator thickness play a part ? ... ... I am looking at getting a case that can only support up to 27mm thick radiators in front and like 45mm up top.

I will be getting a 360mm rad with an EK Evo block to replace my H110i GT and was wondering how much difference will I see between 25mm, 27mm and 30mm.

Regards


----------



## emsj86

From my experience not a big difference at all. Thicker rads have more are which can help with allowing fans to running at a slower speed. But I went from a thin rad to a large rad and I couldn't tell the difference other than when I would leave a benchmark on for hours.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Needs some view points please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you can see, tight fit. Using 13/10mm fittings and soft tubing that alphacool sent me. Ive been told that the Push Pull on the 120mm makes a tight case look very cramped so left with some choice.
> ****in the picture the rad is blowing out, in build will actually be pulling in cold air. was just a placement pic ***
> 
> Keep the Push Pull set up - looks clustered and some plumbing work.
> 
> As i've just received the Twin Turbo cards, check to see if i can have push pull on the front and have the rear rad mounted to the case with the fan in pull, showing the blue brace like the front rad. Will also give more room for plumbing
> 
> If I cant manage push pull at the front then mount the fan to the case first having it as push, rad will be fanless mimicking the front rad but leaves same amount of plumbing room but a few more options for it.
> 
> what would you personally do, whether push/pull will work at the front or not??
> 
> just realised that unlike the white version I built, this one is starting to go for performance more then looks.. mmm


What case is this?


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> From my experience not a big difference at all. Thicker rads have more are which can help with allowing fans to running at a slower speed. But I went from a thin rad to a large rad and I couldn't tell the difference other than when I would leave a benchmark on for hours.


Surface area is always more effective than a thicker rad.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a quick question, how much does radiator thickness play a part ? ... ... I am looking at getting a case that can only support up to 27mm thick radiators in front and like 45mm up top.
> 
> I will be getting a 360mm rad with an EK Evo block to replace my H110i GT and was wondering how much difference will I see between 25mm, 27mm and 30mm.
> 
> Regards


here we go:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/7/

radiator performance x thickness. But no, from 25 to 30 mm you will not see any difference.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> From my experience not a big difference at all. Thicker rads have more are which can help with allowing fans to running at a slower speed. But I went from a thin rad to a large rad and I couldn't tell the difference other than when I would leave a benchmark on for hours.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> Surface area is always more effective than a thicker rad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> here we go:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/7/
> 
> radiator performance x thickness. But no, from 25 to 30 mm you will not see any difference.


Guys, thank you all very much







. I was a little worried as I have never done a custom loop before and when NZXT told me I can only use 25-27mm for a radiator I didn't know what to think as I have seen most people use 30mm or thicker rads.

I am guessing that EK have the best 25mm rad out or am I wrong ? (I see they gave the least cooling of all rads tested)

EK 360 should be fine for a 4960X cpu only loop right ? (I will add another 360 of probably 45mm when I add my 980Ti Kingpin to the loop)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Guys, thank you all very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was a little worried as I have never done a custom loop before and when NZXT told me I can only use 25-27mm for a radiator I didn't know what to think as I have seen most people use 30mm or thicker rads.
> 
> I am guessing that EK have the best 25mm rad out or am I wrong ? (I see they gave the least cooling of all rads tested)
> 
> EK 360 should be fine for a 4960X cpu only loop right ? (I will add another 360 of probably 45mm when I add my 980Ti Kingpin to the loop)


Here: All slim rads compared in terms of performance and space efficiency:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/04/29/bitspower-leviathan-slim-360mm-radiator-review/5/

and yes a 360 rad will be enough for a cpu only loop. You can even put a 180 w gpu there without problem.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here: All slim rads compared in terms of performance and space efficiency:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/04/29/bitspower-leviathan-slim-360mm-radiator-review/5/
> 
> and yes a 360 rad will be enough for a cpu only loop. *You can even put a 180 w gpu there without problem.*


I beg to differ....










You can fit far more than that on,the EK build I did had a 4.4 X99 chip with a pair of 290x's on a PE360........

Remember efficiency goes up massively when more wattage is applied and people massively overestimate how much rad is actually needed,numbers are great (and Stren does sterling work in this respect) and are needed but they are missing a RL context.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Once again ... Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it








... I hope you gents have a great day further


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I beg to differ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can fit far more than that on,the EK build I did had a 4.4 X99 chip with a pair of 290x's on a PE360........
> 
> Remember efficiency goes up massively when more wattage is applied and people massively overestimate how much rad is actually needed,numbers are great (and Stren does sterling work in this respect) and are needed but they are missing a RL context.


exactly my point. I was saying he can use a single 360 rad to cool the CPU as well as a GPU if he wants. Your build is an even more extreme example that an efficient 360mm rad loop can handle 3 blocks (2 gpus with large tdp).


----------



## prznar1

Since my loop is torn apart, i have some time for tweaks and mods. So i thought ill check if my pump can be modified to run with pwm control.

This is my pump pcb.


Ive checked the web for pwm ddc-1t mod and noticed that i have pcb e4, while people were modifing e3. So i came to you for some help. Can it be done? Or cannot. Bought it used some time ago.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Since my loop is torn apart, i have some time for tweaks and mods. So i thought ill check if my pump can be modified to run with pwm control.
> 
> This is my pump pcb.
> 
> 
> Ive checked the web for pwm ddc-1t mod and noticed that i have pcb e4, while people were modifing e3. So i came to you for some help. Can it be done? Or cannot. Bought it used some time ago.


personally as much as I liked the idea pwm pump once I bought my EK DDC 3.2 pwm I have had the hardest time filling and bleeding my loop, have to hook the damn thing up to an external fan controller as apparently it only runs at 20% without the pwm connection being plugged in and powered. Needless to say I got a little fed up and just went back to my D5 with that God send thumb screw mod from Benji.

Anybody know if all ddc pwm pumps run at something like 20% without the pwm header being powered? I haven't really heard any one complain about it so I was just wondering if maybe mines faulty or something, Or if its just just EK DDC pwm thing?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Anybody know if all ddc pwm pumps run at something like 20% without the pwm header being powered? I haven't really heard any one complain about it so I was just wondering if maybe mines faulty or something, Or if its just just EK DDC pwm thing?


I have 2 EK DDC's and they both run flat out at 100% with no PWM connected.

Same goes for a couple other other Swiftech PWM DDC's I own.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I beg to differ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can fit far more than that on,the EK build I did had a 4.4 X99 chip with a pair of 290x's on a PE360........
> 
> Remember efficiency goes up massively when more wattage is applied and people massively overestimate how much rad is actually needed,numbers are great (and Stren does sterling work in this respect) and are needed but they are missing a RL context.


i love when 'much more highly respected' members here post that. im friggin stooooo-ped for saying it but when you do, its bible speak. lol. luv ya bn


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I have 2 EK DDC's and they both run flat out at 100% with no PWM connected.
> 
> Same goes for a couple other other Swiftech PWM DDC's I own.


I have 4 DDC pumps in 3 different computers all running 100% on molex.

TCO


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What case is this?


Looks like a Phanteks P400 to me


----------



## prznar1

Anyway, can I do something with my pump to unlock hidden pwm power?


----------



## superflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I beg to differ....
> 
> You can fit far more than that on,the EK build I did had a 4.4 X99 chip with a pair of 290x's on a PE360........
> 
> Remember efficiency goes up massively when more wattage is applied and people massively overestimate how much rad is actually needed,numbers are great (and Stren does sterling work in this respect) and are needed but they are missing a RL context.


dang. that would have made my rigid loop easier with my single 970 and 4.6ghz 5930k w/ a PE360 and XSPC 240. and I wouldn't have had to do the old double-sided tape business with my drives. WELP









Boy I tell ya that the Enthoo Pro is big but not big enough to be easy lol.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Anyway, can I do something with my pump to unlock hidden pwm power?


yes. you can replace it with a pwm pump. if you dont care to get another pump, no. there is nothing else you can do.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yes. you can replace it with a pwm pump. if you dont care to get another pump, no. there is nothing else you can do.


Thx a lot, this cleared some things for me.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I have 2 EK DDC's and they both run flat out at 100% with no PWM connected.
> 
> Same goes for a couple other other Swiftech PWM DDC's I own.


crap. thanks. That's actually what i was just told by a friend. guess I'll be contacting ek then. Although I'm more than happy to keep running my D5 it's a little irritating to buy something and not have it work properly. DDC's are good pumps I just wish it worked properly. I wonder what would have happened if I had actually finished the filling and bleeding process set a curve and Let It Go. I don't even want to think about it. Although I probably would have been watching it like a hawk after it acting like that in the first place.

Thanks man


----------



## ShiftysBlade

[/quote] @prznar1 By the way sorry for question jacking your question. Kind of rude of me. My bad.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> @prznar1 By the way sorry for question jacking your question. Kind of rude of me. My bad.


Np man


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Diggin the Combo. Log is in the Siggy. If you Dare









TCO


----------



## khemist

I'm using almost the same setup but the Black heatsink and Black end caps, acetal top, 150 res is it not?, looks nice.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I'm using almost the same setup but the Black heatsink and Black end caps, acetal top, 150 res is it not?, looks nice.


It is the 150Res Pom Version









Appreciate the Compliment. I was doubting myself putting Silver and White together, but It turned out great (I think, at least)

TCO


----------



## ImZac

ill drop these here


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Since my loop is torn apart, i have some time for tweaks and mods. So i thought ill check if my pump can be modified to run with pwm control.
> 
> This is my pump pcb.
> 
> 
> Ive checked the web for pwm ddc-1t mod and noticed that i have pcb e4, while people were modifing e3. So i came to you for some help. Can it be done? Or cannot. Bought it used some time ago.


test it ! solder a wire on it and ground it, ( ask it diva if you want to use a resistor inline, like you should ) but i have no idea.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Get to play with my new lights thanks to CableMod:



Love these lights so far


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What case is this?


Phanteks P400 . their version of a S340 with an extra 140mm space up top


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImZac*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill drop these here


That looks really sweet! Could you give details about what kind of fluid and tube type you used for this? Looks like a lime UV something...


----------



## ImZac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> That looks really sweet! Could you give details about what kind of fluid and tube type you used for this? Looks like a lime UV something...


It's primo chill uv green flextube and a 70/30mix of distilled water and antifreeze (all my blocks and rads are copper but I didn't want to wait for another kill coil so I decided to try this and it turned out pretty unique)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Since my loop is torn apart, i have some time for tweaks and mods. So i thought ill check if my pump can be modified to run with pwm control.
> 
> This is my pump pcb.
> 
> 
> Ive checked the web for pwm ddc-1t mod and noticed that i have pcb e4, while people were modifing e3. So i came to you for some help. Can it be done? Or cannot. Bought it used some time ago.
> 
> 
> 
> test it ! solder a wire on it and ground it, ( ask it diva if you want to use a resistor inline, like you should ) but i have no idea.
Click to expand...

Compared to a pic of the regular 35X PWM model, it looks like a module on the other side of the PCB close to the solder pads is not there . . .

Well crap . . . it's not letting the picture upload, will have to retry when I get home from work

D.


----------



## KGPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I beg to differ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can fit far more than that on,the EK build I did had a 4.4 X99 chip with a pair of 290x's on a PE360........
> 
> Remember efficiency goes up massively when more wattage is applied and people massively overestimate how much rad is actually needed,numbers are great (and Stren does sterling work in this respect) and are needed but they are missing a RL context.


I normally never cared about this kind of stuff, but that is the coolest custom system i've ever seen. Super clean. Is there a build log? I love that it's so compact and metal.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGPrime*
> 
> I normally never cared about this kind of stuff, but that is the coolest custom system i've ever seen. Super clean. Is there a build log? I love that it's so compact and metal.


That was HeretEK, part of the EK Vulture mod competition. Gorgeous piece of work.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGPrime*
> 
> I normally never cared about this kind of stuff, but that is the coolest custom system i've ever seen. Super clean. Is there a build log? I love that it's so compact and metal.


Thanks! I do have a bit of soft spot for that build....so much so that I feel the need to another one!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> That was HeretEK, part of the EK Vulture mod competition. Gorgeous piece of work.


Aw...you guys....


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stick w/ Primochill Advance LRT soft tube. No harm with acrylic since a lot of components are also made from the same stuff. Like your res


What fittings would I need to run 1 primochill tube from a radiation to a reservoir?


----------



## Rahldrac

So I am starting a new job now, which includes a lot of traveling. For that reason I want to sell all of my watercooling equipment (2xEK Revo D5 2x Blocks for 970 G1, CPU block, bunch of radiators, fittings and fans).
I will probably sell it all on the Polish Allegro, but I wanted to give something back to the community and sell it here first. But I do not have enough reps to do this.

Suuuper quick photo of how it looks right now.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I am starting a new job now, which includes a lot of traveling. For that reason I want to sell all of my watercooling equipment (2xEK Revo D5 2x Blocks for 970 G1, CPU block, bunch of radiators, fittings and fans).
> I will probably sell it all on the Polish Allegro, but I wanted to give something back to the community and sell it here first. But I do not have enough reps to do this.
> 
> Suuuper quick photo of how it looks right now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good luck on your new job, shame you cant sell! (Not that any of that stuff would fit in my rig anyway!)

Crazy bends too! No reason you couldn't just downsize your rig for travelling, I'm sure you could still water cool unless you're travelling by plane


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Good luck on your new job, shame you cant sell! (Not that any of that stuff would fit in my rig anyway!)
> 
> Crazy bends too! No reason you couldn't just downsize your rig for travelling, I'm sure you could still water cool unless you're travelling by plane


Thanks! Gonna work as a bit of a traveling doctor, so a lot of flights during the next two years.

It has been fun though, probably coming back in 2-3 years. The community has been fantastic which is why I want to try to sell to someone here if I can


----------



## TheCautiousOne

More in the Log









TCO


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stick w/ Primochill Advance LRT soft tube. No harm with acrylic since a lot of components are also made from the same stuff. Like your res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fittings would I need to run 1 primochill tube from a radiation to a reservoir?
Click to expand...

Bump


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would think a few 90's would suffice


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Bump


Hate to be a dick. but you need to learn to problem solve on your own. This hobby is all about figuring out how to run lines.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Bump
> 
> 
> 
> Hate to be a dick. but you need to learn to problem solve on your own. This hobby is all about figuring out how to run lines.
Click to expand...

I respectfully disagree.

This hobby has people from all experience levels from Newbs to Experts. Nothing wrong with asking for some experienced feedback. Asking questions is part of the learning curve in anything. I'd rather see someone asking questions, than seeing them come here with an "Oh ISH! What did I do wrong" statement complete with leak picks and they never took the time to ask questions.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Bump
> 
> 
> 
> Hate to be a dick. but you need to learn to problem solve on your own. This hobby is all about figuring out how to run lines.
Click to expand...

I think the problem is people come to this thread looking for help when this thread is about mingling and showcasing. We don't browse it to see problems we browse it to see rigs and loops. I come here for inspiration and ideas, it gets annoying having to hunt and peck past posts of general "how do i" posts.

There is an entire water cooling forum for new posts and threads to ask questions and problem solve.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I think the problem is people come to this thread looking for help when this thread is about mingling and showcasing. We don't browse it to see problems we browse it to see rigs and loops. I come here for inspiration and ideas, it gets annoying having to hunt and peck past posts of general "how do i" posts.
> 
> There is an entire water cooling forum for new posts and threads to ask questions and problem solve.


I highly recommend you to read the first post.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Hate to be a dick. but you need to learn to problem solve on your own. This hobby is all about figuring out how to run lines.


Im guessing i phrased it wrong?

I just was asking what fittings does that Primochill Advance lrt use, i already know what the line im running is


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gree*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Stick w/ Primochill Advance LRT soft tube. No harm with acrylic since a lot of components are also made from the same stuff. Like your res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fittings would I need to run 1 primochill tube from a radiation to a reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bump
Click to expand...

Two Passthrough fittings and three 90* fittings should work on the back tube, if you move your Pump back about an inch or so.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I think the problem is people come to this thread looking for help when this thread is about mingling and showcasing. We don't browse it to see problems we browse it to see rigs and loops. I come here for inspiration and ideas, it gets annoying having to hunt and peck past posts of general "how do i" posts.
> 
> There is an entire water cooling forum for new posts and threads to ask questions and problem solve.
> 
> 
> 
> I highly recommend you to read the first post.
Click to expand...

The first 2 paragraphs of the very first post is exactly what I paraphrased in less words.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I asked tons of questions before finally diving into doing my first loop nearly 4 yrs ago, all those questions were asked in this thread. Also thanks to some beautiful builds at the time it gave me tons of ideas and information that could only been seen (I'm a highly visual learner). I recommend a lot of my clients/customers that are wanting to dive into custom Watercooling to come here on OCN due to my experience all those years ago. Also the recommendation is due to the help I've seen over said time and the constructive criticism that can be seen here rather than discourage someone who is still unsure of the first steps to take or might be stuck/blind to their project at that time.

Your paraphrase was only of the first sentence/objective:
Purpose:

I want this thread to exist for 2 purposes. The first purpose is so that we can all enjoy the sheer beauty and power of water cooling. *The second purpose is so that people who have never used water can come here for inspiration to make the switch and for advice and ideas on what kind of parts and setups they want for themselves.*
Mature discussion of parts and watercooling theory is welcome,if the post you wish to make is of a technical nature then please use the search to see if you question has already been answered or start a thread. The post rate is very fast and questions can get swallowed up and not seen,dont be offended if your question is not answered immediately.


----------



## SteezyTN

Delete*

Wrong thread lol


----------



## Laithan

As a former and current question asking offender, I have to say that despite myself and many others being guilty of not reading the fine print (oops)







the information, troubleshooting and expertise along with the willingness to help others is top notch, extremely impressive and worthy of recognition despite technically being in the wrong thread.

I did however post my rig a long time ago so I've got at least one legit post


----------



## szeged

got the loop in my new build finally, only took 4 weeks of sitting around saying " eh...ill get it tomorrow"




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














spoilers because mucho pic.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got the loop in my new build finally, only took 4 weeks of sitting around saying " eh...ill get it tomorrow"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spoilers because mucho pic.


Love the chrome man. Nice.


----------



## KGPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> That was HeretEK, part of the EK Vulture mod competition. Gorgeous piece of work.


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks! I do have a bit of soft spot for that build....so much so that I feel the need to another one!
> Aw...you guys....


Great work. I love it. Of course the case has to be unobtainable. :| They should be making them! It's the nicest mini itx i've ever seen. Haven't really seen a case i cared for enough to bother with more than the one i've been using for the last 10 years, it moves air excellent, looks ok, no real reason to ditch it. I drool over that Vulture though. So Metal. Never was into the windowed with led thing but Love how you did it. All the parts really complimented each other and the piping is beautiful. I could probably deal with some subtle orange lighting in it.
My NZXt $100ish hoopty, think it was like 89 bucks, lol. Probably be using it another 10 years.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Bump
> 
> 
> 
> Hate to be a dick. but you need to learn to problem solve on your own. This hobby is all about figuring out how to run lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think the problem is people come to this thread looking for help when this thread is about mingling and showcasing. We don't browse it to see problems we browse it to see rigs and loops. I come here for inspiration and ideas, it gets annoying having to hunt and peck past posts of general "how do i" posts.
> 
> There is an entire water cooling forum for new posts and threads to ask questions and problem solve.
Click to expand...

And yet there is this thread. Feel free not to read it if it offends you that much


----------



## X-Nine

There is no problem in someone asking questions. If you feel like alienating someone who could potentially end up building a great loop that inspires you, YOU'RE the problem, not the person asking the question.

This thread has thousands of questions and answers in it, and it will remain that way.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got the loop in my new build finally, only took 4 weeks of sitting around saying " eh...ill get it tomorrow"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spoilers because mucho pic.


No mono block?! It really turned out fantastic, though. That nickel looks brilliant!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And yet there is this thread. Feel free not to read it if it offends you that much


And yet,he is correct and you are being incredibly rude....

This is a gallery thread primarily,there are a plethora of other threads that cater for questions...especially the noob questions that are already covered in depth elsewhere....
I don't have a problem with questions,I have a problem with people not using the search for answers.

The correct thing to do is post a thread with your questions and link it here if you want the "club" to pitch in on it


----------



## Mega Man

While I agree with the search function.

It is far more rude to complain about someone's post then what I said.

He asked for advice which is directly stated in your op is ok


----------



## wermad

_OCN Water Cooling *Club* And Picture Gallery_

I would guess by the title of this thread that "club" precedes "gallary", therefore, like many clubs here, questions about "water cooling" should be welcomed, regardless of who runs it or who partakes to answer questions. Plus, haven't we already been through this carousel that ppl will still ask. I have no problem tbh as sometimes, your search results may be too dated and its nice to have an up to date answer/reply/opinion.



















edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> There is no problem in someone asking questions. If you feel like alienating someone who could potentially end up building a great loop that inspires you, YOU'RE the problem, not the person asking the question.
> 
> This thread has thousands of questions and answers in it, and it will remain that way.


Qft


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> _OCN Water Cooling *Club* And Picture Gallery_
> 
> I would guess by the title of this thread that "club" precedes "gallary", therefore, like many clubs here, questions about "water cooling" should be welcomed, *regardless of who runs it* or who partakes to answer questions. Plus, haven't we already been through this carousel that ppl will still ask. I have no problem tbh as sometimes, your search results may be too dated and its nice to have an up to date answer/reply/opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Qft


Im tired of your little digs,grow a pair will you?

The first post is very clear,ask questions after the search has been exhausted,I dont want to read pages and pages of simple stuff that has already been covered ad nauseam in dedicated threads. This is not about who runs this thread or who answers the question,its about keeping this thread more focused.

Like it or not,that is how it is. Discuss theory,new parts,testing etc to your hearts content,encourage that at every chance but keep the simple stuff that has been covered to a minimum or direct them to a thread that has covered it in depth.
If its not been covered then make a thread and explain it,you can link it over and over as required,keep it upto date and you are golden,post it here and it will never get seen beyond the one person you are explaining it too. Very simple forum dynamics,especially in this fast moving thread.

This is a massive forum with a lot of useful content,exploit it and make it better.


----------



## wermad

Very mature, seems like yours are missing? Troll baiting i guess.

edit: I don't care who runs *any* club, whether you or Kevin or any other member at a different thread/club. If it says club, it should be open the the subject matter and not personal preference. You need to chill with your pompous attitude and thinking you own ocn. If its your build thread, do what you want. Yeah, I know some members will continue to ask and I do agree that they're better off getting their own thread for multiple questions.

double edit: if you're so passionate about having it your way, change the title and have someone else run a WC question thread. It has been done before (because of these arguments) but ppl still point back towards this thread. Just do it like other sites and delete "club" to make it a gallery *only* so it can meet your criteria and expectations.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Very mature, seems like yours are missing? Troll baiting i guess.
> 
> edit: I don't care who runs *any* club, whether you or Kevin or any other member at a different thread/club. If it says club, it should be open the the subject matter and not personal preference. You need to chill with your pampas attitude and thinking you own ocn. If its your build thread, do what you want. Yeah, I know some members will continue to ask and *I do agree that they're better off getting their own thread for multiple questions.*
> 
> double edit: if you're so passionate about having it your way, change the title and have someone else run a WC question thread. It has been done before (because of these arguments) but ppl still point back towards this thread. Just do it like other sites and delete "club" to make it a gallery *only* so it can meet your criteria and expectations.


So what are you arguing about? You agree but feel the need the argue anyway? Yup,troll baiting...sure....
You know the difference between you and me? I confront and resolve,you just make snide comments and insinuation.

Its not about 'having it my way',its about simple forum etiquette. The first post is simple and easy to follow,I don't see what your (endless) problem is.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## Prophet4NO1

So, how about them water cooled rigs?


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> So, how about them water cooled rigs?


Working on it, Bidding on a 980ti ATM.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*












TCO


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Stumbled on this mess today. At least the guy knows it was a bust, but he really does not understand what is going on it seems.


----------



## VeritronX

In other news, I'm working on rebuilding in an ncase again.. things should go smoother this time I think. Last time I couldn't get the side panel on and the pump sat on the case floor making it resonate until I'd had enough and tore it all down.

This time I splurged on a new pwm ddc 100mm res combo and have dual filtered intake fans on the bottom of the case. I also decided against my normal usage of 1/3rd diluted tectaloy premix and will order some EK Ekoolant EVO Clear Concentrate instead, in light of recent conversations I've read catching up on this thread.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> In other news, I'm working on rebuilding in an ncase again.. things should go smoother this time I think. Last time I couldn't get the side panel on and the pump sat on the case floor making it resonate until I'd had enough and tore it all down.
> 
> This time I splurged on a new pwm ddc 100mm res combo and have dual filtered intake fans on the bottom of the case. I also decided against my normal usage of 1/3rd diluted tectaloy premix and will order some ek clear coolant instead, in light of recent conversations I've read catching up on this thread.


My trick has been double faced foam tape at the mounting surface. My D5 is silent at full speed. I just put the tape down and then screwed the the mount in place. Learned that trick a long time ago and it works wonders.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> My trick has been double faced foam tape at the mounting surface. My D5 is silent at full speed. I just put the tape down and then screwed the the mount in place. Learned that trick a long time ago and it works wonders.


I couldn't fit anything under the pump at that time, it barely fit under the gpu block with the stock ddc top fitted. It's ok though, the new pump res combo has pwm so the pump won't drive me crazy at idle.. in theory.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

In other news, a quick 'all Corsair' build for Computex. 3 week turnaround.





Sacrilege I know but it kinda works...


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In other news, a quick 'all Corsair' build for Computex. 3 week turnaround.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sacrilege I know but it kinda works...


Whoa, whoa, a B NEGATIVE build using AIO's?! What's going on here?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In other news, a quick 'all Corsair' build for Computex. 3 week turnaround.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sacrilege I know but it kinda works...


So Blake hit you up after all huh? Good thing I kept insisting then


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Need help or view points !!

Left with two options for the flow meter.
A way to Link the Rad to the CPU block or,
From pump to GPU and can also attach a drain point to it.
Torn......

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160511_152026.jpg.html

Managed to bolt in the Res/Pump and added cables for a quick overall colour scheme









Hopefully get around to cutting down the Alphacool 970 m11 block so i can begin the Hybrid cooling

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160511_135927.jpg.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Need help or view points !!
> 
> Left with two options for the flow meter.
> A way to Link the Rad to the CPU block or,
> From pump to GPU and can also attach a drain point to it.
> Torn......


How about No flow meter.

Since it is not a flow meter that you can read digitally or hook up to the motherboard, and the option for the CPU (To me wouldn't look right) and the option from the pump could hinder flow, I personally wouldn't incorporate it into the loop.

TCO


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How about No flow meter.
> 
> Since it is not a flow meter that you can read digitally or hook up to the motherboard, and the option for the CPU (To me wouldn't look right) and the option from the pump could hinder flow, I personally wouldn't incorporate it into the loop.
> 
> TCO


I uave heard theres issues with this flow indicator, at the time alphacools wasnt out but has to be used stood up for best results .
To be honest its more visual then function.
As for flow, the GPX blocks takes so much out of not, not really worried about the indicator


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Need help or view points !!
> 
> Left with two options for the flow meter.
> A way to Link the Rad to the CPU block or,
> From pump to GPU and can also attach a drain point to it.
> Torn......
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160511_152026.jpg.html
> 
> Managed to bolt in the Res/Pump and added cables for a quick overall colour scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully get around to cutting down the Alphacool 970 m11 block so i can begin the Hybrid cooling
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160511_135927.jpg.html


I have the same flowmeter and you can't use the center hole... it won't spin... that center G1/4 is for LED/TEMP monitor only.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I have the same flowmeter and you can't use the center hole... it won't spin... that center G1/4 is for LED/TEMP monitor only.


Cheers for that ! Great piece of info. Will have to rethink.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I have the same flowmeter and *you can't use the center hole... it won't spin*... that center G1/4 is for LED/TEMP monitor only.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Cheers for that ! Great piece of info. Will have to rethink.


Primochill flow indicator can be used with the middle port being used as an outlet and still spin, don't see why the Alphacool one wouldn't.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Stumbled on this mess today. At least the guy knows it was a bust, but he really does not understand what is going on it seems.


I was building some budget wc, and came to same conclusion, so one day i just bought a heatkiller cpu and gpu block







worked like a charm


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Primochill flow indicator can be used with the middle port being used as an outlet and still spin, don't see why the Alphacool one wouldn't.


Very nice work! Looks awesome.

Now that I see your pic I'm like what the.... even the Vortex product page says the center is for lightning but your pic is proof right there!









I guess the answer is "maybe" it would work because my experience was much different... I also have the Primochill Vortex and I *thought* I tried every combination using the center. I wonder if it has to do with gravity.

This is how I originally set up the flowmeter and with this orientation it didn't spin at all it didn't even move. It looks like we are both using the center as an inlet also.


I had to hook it up this way instead which is ugly and I hate it


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice work! Looks awesome.
> 
> Now that I see your pic I'm like what the.... even the Vortex product page says the center is for lightning but your pic is proof right there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the answer is "maybe" it would work because my experience was much different... I also have the Primochill Vortex and I *thought* I tried every combination using the center. I wonder if it has to do with gravity.
> 
> This is how I originally set up the flowmeter and with this orientation it didn't spin at all it didn't even move. It looks like we are both using the center as an inlet also.
> 
> 
> I had to hook it up this way instead which is ugly and I hate it


In my pic center is outlet, RHS is the inlet


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> In my pic center is outlet, RHS is the inlet


Cool.. That clears it up then... center can't be used as an inlet but can be used as an outlet.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This hobby has people from all experience levels from Newbs to Experts. Nothing wrong with asking for some experienced feedback. Asking questions is part of the learning curve in anything. I'd rather see someone asking questions, than seeing them come here with an "Oh ISH! What did I do wrong" statement complete with leak picks and they never took the time to ask questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


^^^ This


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Cool.. That clears it up then... center can't be used as an inlet but can be used as an outlet.


Thanks for the feedback and tips ! Nice to see if with colour aswell. Visual for me would look nice vertically by the CPU but partically it would be better syits by the pump to allow a drain

****
going for the CPU location and should spin with the flow hopefully taking it anti-clock wise


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Primochill flow indicator can be used with the middle port being used as an outlet and still spin, don't see why the Alphacool one wouldn't.










Fast Fate, those bends are so clean. Mandrel or freehand?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast Fate, those bends are so clean. Mandrel or freehand?


Hmmmm....








I did that before "dedicated" mandrels were as common as they are today.
I would have used "formers" of shaped aluminum strips.

Not long after the same build went in a different direction until internal thread failed on acrylic tube


----------



## wermad

Any performance-pcs.com discounts for Memorial Day coming up? Might have to order some stuff and shipping is crazy high ($40 shipping for tube and some block accessories!)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback and tips ! Nice to see if with colour aswell. Visual for me would look nice vertically by the CPU but partically it would be better syits by the pump to allow a drain
> 
> ****
> going for the CPU location and should spin with the flow hopefully taking it anti-clock wise
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160512_122122.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome to see your build evolve but a little sad the air cooler went. Like the blues in there though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Primochill flow indicator can be used with the middle port being used as an outlet and still spin, don't see why the Alphacool one wouldn't.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hmmmm....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did that before "dedicated" mandrels were as common as they are today.
> I would have used "formers" of shaped aluminum strips.
> 
> Not long after the same build went in a different direction until internal thread failed on acrylic tube
Click to expand...

Sexy rigs


----------



## krutoydiesel

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hmmmm....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did that before "dedicated" mandrels were as common as they are today.
> I would have used "formers" of shaped aluminum strips.
> 
> Not long after the same build went in a different direction until internal thread failed on acrylic tube


I wonder, have they created internal threaded nickel plated copper pipe?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sexy rigs


Same Rig
















old now and decommissioned


----------



## wermad

Still good lucking non-the-less


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Still good lucking non-the-less


Going down memory lane with Curlicue tonight aren't I








Last one I promise.

Think this was the first loop that went into that case - NZXT Tempest Evo




Spoiler: Appears I even gave a damn about cables


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Going down memory lane with Curlicue tonight aren't I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last one I promise.
> 
> Think this was the first loop that went into that case - NZXT Tempest Evo
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Appears I even gave a damn about cables


Lol. Super clean those cables.

I known you are trying to resist Fast but I couldn't...



So here we go, BH4 Bullet work log live:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1599975/the-little-big-bullitt-a-caselabs-bh4-bullet-build


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Going down memory lane with Curlicue tonight aren't I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last one I promise.
> 
> Think this was the first loop that went into that case - NZXT Tempest Evo


One of my old builds w/ Danger Den blocks (quad GTX 580 3GB).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I would have used "formers" of shaped aluminum strips.


I still do for the most part.

And I have a mandrel set.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I still do for the most part.
> 
> And I have a mandrel set.


yep...I use wood versions for the job:




Much easier than the mandrels for me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep...I use wood versions for the job:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much easier than the mandrels for me.


Its the trench type mandrels that put me off,I dont think they form the tube that great tbh. From the side like your versions might be better but flat is the way for me,you dont get so much 'pinching'.

Each to their own tho.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Lol. Super clean those cables.
> 
> I known you are trying to resist Fast but I couldn't...
> 
> 
> 
> So here we go, BH4 Bullet work log live:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1599975/the-little-big-bullitt-a-caselabs-bh4-bullet-build


That pic is so incorrect, Jacques is a scarlet "skunk" cleaner shrimp.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That pic is so incorrect, Jacques is a scarlet "skunk" cleaner shrimp.


I known! But was the one with that epic phrase written on it. It cause me a pause moment when I read crab and not shrimp...


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I known! But was the one with that epic phrase written on it. It cause me a pause moment when I read crab and not shrimp...


He could have made a really good porcelain or emerald crab... While they have personality, it's just not the same as your average cleaner shrimp. ^_^


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Tin Snips.... And Now I need a File, a Big one.









TCO


----------



## wermad

Omg....no cl for the tco build...life is meaningless now


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Omg....no cl for the tco build...life is meaningless now


WERM!!! I WON'T LOSE YOU BRO!!!

This isn't for me, this is for a client.









I Still have my S3 Baby











(And yes, the case still looks like this: naked, abused, a little dusty and needs a good Spanking







)

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

I literally hate drilling. Thanks for washers though. So much easier to tighten the pump/res down when you make mistakes on the holes and it also allows to move it around if you don't get a hole drilled in the right position. I drilled a bigger hole and used the washer to tighten it down. This might have been the first time I've found a solution without having to bug the community about it hahahah


----------



## prznar1

Love my shop where im buying stuff for lq. Asked them if they have a leash or key lock. Got key lock from cm, pen and glasses from gelid







and 1% price cut


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I literally hate drilling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for washers though. So much easier to tighten the pump/res down when you make mistakes on the holes and it also allows to move it around if you don't get a hole drilled in the right position. I drilled a bigger hole and used the washer to tighten it down. This might have been the first time I've found a solution without having to bug the community about it hahahah


Why?

Center punch everything first and you are golden


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I literally hate drilling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for washers though. So much easier to tighten the pump/res down when you make mistakes on the holes and it also allows to move it around if you don't get a hole drilled in the right position. I drilled a bigger hole and used the washer to tighten it down. This might have been the first time I've found a solution without having to bug the community about it hahahah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why?
> 
> Center punch everything first and you are golden
Click to expand...

+1

I never drill a hole without first using a center punch, makes things way easier.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuchi*
> 
> It is my first time to design the PC case by myself. I used the AL5052 plates thickness of 2mm, with laser cutting, bending, drilling, tapping, sand blasting, and anodic treatment processes to make it.
> The case's dimension is L=364mm/W=229mm/H=363mm.
> 
> Other components are as below:
> 1. ASUS Maximus VII impact
> 2. ASUS STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5
> 3. EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
> 4. EK-FC970 GTX Strix - Nickel
> 5. EK-XRES 140 Revo D5
> 6. Bitspower fittings
> 7. Bitspower O.D. 12mm PETG tubes
> 8. Koolance HX-CU420V & HX-CU720V radiators
> 9. Mayhems UV Laser Green Dyes & pure water
> 10. Three Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 PWM fans


Beautiful build!!!!....How are those Noctuas treating you? I'm putting 16 in my rebuild now, on 2 560 rads?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why?
> 
> Center punch everything first and you are golden


Because I didn't have one at the time , and I still don't lol. I'll be picking up one when I go to redrill new holes in my new midplate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I literally hate drilling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for washers though. So much easier to tighten the pump/res down when you make mistakes on the holes and it also allows to move it around if you don't get a hole drilled in the right position. I drilled a bigger hole and used the washer to tighten it down. This might have been the first time I've found a solution without having to bug the community about it hahahah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why?
> 
> Center punch everything first and you are golden
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> +1
> 
> I never drill a hole without first using a center punch, makes things way easier.
Click to expand...

That's what everyone said when I drilled them almost a year ago. Felt stupid when I knew they were right







will definitely be picking one up soon.


----------



## fast_fate

How clear is your tubing









New samples of each tube Left to Right....
14mm PETG, 14mm Acrylic, Ultra Clear







Adv. LRT Chrystal Clear









Clear UV coolant, but white light.


 

With clear coolant Acrylic clearly has better clarity - ohdear, did I really just write that









And with UV lights on the clarity of the Acrylic appears to actually hinder the UV effect by allowing the light to pass through.



With colored coolant much of a muchness


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> How clear is your tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New samples of each tube Left to Right....
> 14mm PETG, 14mm Acrylic, Ultra Clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adv. LRT Chrystal Clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Clear UV coolant, but white light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With clear coolant Acrylic clearly has better clarity - ohdear, did I really just write that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with UV lights on the clarity of the Acrylic appears to actually hinder the UV effect by allowing the light to pass through.
> 
> 
> 
> With colored coolant much of a muchness


+Rep ..... i just appreciate comparison posts


----------



## prznar1

So i got 6 of lepa 70d 120mm fans, 3 on case and 3 on fat rad. Lets see how those fans will perform.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Soft tube just looks like it was made from recycled Durex.....


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Soft tube just looks like it was made from recycled Durex.....












Do we have a clarity/quality comparison between the different companies that sell or produce PETG?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do we have a clarity/quality comparison between the different companies that sell or produce PETG?


Maybe there are some useful comparisons in the Mayhems Borosilicate Glass Tube Review.
Not comprehensive if there is anything useful there.
Have plenty more samples now for upcoming hard-line fittings shoot-out

*EDIT*: nah - no comparisons in the glass tube review


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Maybe there are some useful comparisons in the Mayhems Borosilicate Glass Tube Review.
> Not comprehensive if there is anything useful there.
> Have plenty more samples now for upcoming hard-line fittings shoot-out
> 
> *EDIT*: nah - no comparisons in the glass tube review


Do you have any plans in the future to do a clarity comparison between PETG manufacturers?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Do you have any plans in the future to do a clarity comparison between PETG manufacturers?


Sorry, nothing specific like that.
If you want clarity, acrylic is the best all round option








Glass tube is nice but has another whole set of issues to deal.


----------



## Bonjovi

Guys Flow Matter can be counted by Laser? Because i think to buy flow mater fitting w/o cables and i can use laser sensor?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Sorry, nothing specific like that.
> If you want clarity, acrylic is the best all round option
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glass tube is nice but has another whole set of issues to deal.


With PETG I can reheat and fix a bend, with acrylic I cannot.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> With PETG I can reheat and fix a bend, with acrylic I cannot.


Shouldn't be a reason to buy PETG.

Bneg chimmed in on this thread.

TCO


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do we have a clarity/quality comparison between the different companies that sell or produce PETG?


Not really a comparison or a test but I used 14mm PETG from Barrow and XSPC(only two brands making 14mm tubing, at least available in the UK) and I can say Barrow tubing is so much better. It is chamfered on both ends(i know, it's nothing since you have to do that anyway but it just feels nicer when taking out of packaging), clarity is noticeable better and the internal lines along the tube are less visible than XSPC.
Once there's coolant(especially pastel) inside you can't really see the difference.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> With PETG I can reheat and fix a bend, with acrylic I cannot.
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't be a reason to buy PETG.
> 
> Bneg chimmed in on this thread.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I don't have near the experience of Bneg, Fast_Fate, snef of the other more experienced guys.

That being said, the only reason I would use acrylic is for dye. I'm sure that if it's bent properly acrylic is the ticket. But if you're inexperienced, I think that PETG is the way to go. There are similar issues(beyond ease of bending and stability) as flexible tubing, such as permeation. But that's not something I have ever worried about because I pay attention my loop and maintain the level appropriately. If I were to run dye, I would run acryic. Since I run straight distilled, no additives PETG is the ticket for me.









~Ceadder


----------



## gree

Hey I was looking into getting some adv lrt for the back of my acrylic loop,and was referred to ek zmt instead.

is zmt really that much better? (I'm assuming it also plays well with acrylic if they're telling me to get it instead)
One point was the lrt isn't plastizer free and zmt is.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't have near the experience of Bneg, Fast_Fate, snef of the other more experienced guys.
> 
> That being said, the only reason I would use acrylic is for dye. I'm sure that if it's bent properly acrylic is the ticket. But if you're inexperienced, I think that PETG is the way to go. There are similar issues(beyond ease of bending and stability) as flexible tubing, such as permeation. But that's not something I have ever worried about because I pay attention my loop and maintain the level appropriately. If I were to run dye, I would run acryic. Since I run straight distilled, no additives PETG is the ticket for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Acrylic is so cheap to purchase that if you have no idea what you are doing, one or two bends later yup are easily getting the hang of it. Then again, I am one to purchase a ton of 90 degree fittings also.



TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> How clear is your tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New samples of each tube Left to Right....
> 14mm PETG, 14mm Acrylic, Ultra Clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adv. LRT Chrystal Clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clear UV coolant, but white light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With clear coolant Acrylic clearly has better clarity - ohdear, did I really just write that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with UV lights on the clarity of the Acrylic appears to actually hinder the UV effect by allowing the light to pass through.
> 
> 
> 
> With colored coolant much of a muchness


What about glass? If I may ask


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> With PETG I can reheat and fix a bend, with acrylic I cannot.


Not true,you can reheat acrylic.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup I reheated my runs a few times for slight adjustments (mainly the large one going from the out on the mono to the rear of the m8 then down to the pedestal)


----------



## BulletBait

My latest recreation of my same old rig inside a new case.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What about glass? If I may ask


Tonight I'll see if I can get some better comparisons shots with asst. clear hard-line tubes - acrylic, PETG and glass.
old photo below - acrylic 2nd from the left and 3 glass sizes on the right.

The acrylic may have had slightly better clarity than the glass which surprised me,
But then lighting and background could make a big difference.


----------



## Mega Man

tyvm man !


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> But then lighting and background could make a big difference.


Glass clarity varies substantially depending on quality etc - so it may be just that the acrylic is indeed clearer.

I guess refractive indices also come into play on how the light is perceived as it traverses through the tubes.


----------



## feznz




----------



## bluedevil

Doing a little test fit this morning before work.


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Doing a little test fit this morning before work.


Clean and very dark. Should make for some great contrast with different colors. What direction you going with the water system??


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> Clean and very dark. Should make for some great contrast with different colors. What direction you going with the water system??


This is my mostly sponsored DOOM build, so coolant will be EK's Concentrated Blood Red. Thinking of doing a 280 CE in the roof with a 360 PE in the front. Also thinking of doing a tube res with a DDC mounted horizontally right above the PSU on the "basement" floor. That should leave enough room for the Revenant statue to the right if the GPUs.

Just hard pressed to do PETG or Soft tubing...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't have near the experience of Bneg, Fast_Fate, snef of the other more experienced guys.
> 
> That being said, the only reason I would use acrylic is for dye. I'm sure that if it's bent properly acrylic is the ticket. But if you're inexperienced, I think that PETG is the way to go. There are similar issues(beyond ease of bending and stability) as flexible tubing, such as permeation. But that's not something I have ever worried about because I pay attention my loop and maintain the level appropriately. If I were to run dye, I would run acryic. Since I run straight distilled, no additives PETG is the ticket for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic is so cheap to purchase that if you have no idea what you are doing, one or two bends later yup are easily getting the hang of it. Then again, I am one to purchase a ton of 90 degree fittings also.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

True. However with shipping costs it can get rather expensive. I run White tubing at the moment so for me there is no difference between PETG and Acrylic. Also I really didn't find working with Acrylic all that difficult. I wasted a single tube getting my first bend and it's not bad at all. No crimping, no burn marks from overheating and warping or collapsing. But since am working with white I will likely go with PETG for peace of mind.

Pretty sure this tube could be shorter but...




I like it anyway.









Just got a few Cable Combs for my build from Mainframe Customs. Only needed a few for what I have in mind.

These things are tiny and well made. Anodized aluminum and pretty much similar in weight to the plastic ones on the market.












~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

I like acrylic best of all









XSPC ECX


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,you can reheat acrylic.


Reheat and do minor fixes to bends?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Reheat and do minor fixes to bends?


Yes. I do it all the time.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes. I do it all the time.


Mine often kinks, but I think thats an issue with my heating up incorrectly and I'm bending by hand too so probably contributes to that.


----------



## Mega Man

Do you use a filler rod?


----------



## gree

I was looking into getting some adv lrt for the back of my acrylic loop,and was referred to ek zmt instead.

is zmt really that much better? (I'm assuming it also plays well with acrylic if they're telling me to get it instead)
One point was the lrt isn't plastizer free and zmt is.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just wrapping up the Corsair Catalyst build,only the OS and the screen to setup!

Nice pics later!


----------



## Mega Man

wow, that really does make me think of mirrors edge great job, as always! but does magoo approve ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wow, that really does make me think of mirrors edge great job, as always! *but does magoo approve* ?


I hope not . . . . .

Someone in the family has to retain their dignity . . . .

It is bloody Corsair after all . . .









Just jokin' with ya . . .

It's actually a pretty bold and different look for a B Neg build.

D.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I hope not . . . . .
> 
> Someone in the family has to retain their dignity . . . .
> 
> It is bloody Corsair after all . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just jokin' with ya . . .
> 
> It's actually a pretty bold and different look for a B Neg build.
> 
> D.


Not bad for a 3 week turnaround tho,its needs a few details and proper watercooling but it wasnt for me,this is Corsairs build.

I do like the easy bolt on and go of AIO's tho..


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Doing a little test fit this morning before work.


Are you putting that boat in your rig?


----------



## Ypsylon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Mine often kinks, but I think thats an issue with my heating up incorrectly and I'm bending by hand too so probably contributes to that.


Yes you can re-heat acrylic just fine. Recently finished refit from PETG to PMMA. I made few adjustments with re-heating acrylic tubes. All you have to remember is to never force the tube when bending, never start bending too fast and if you have bend already wait a good while for acrylic to cool down to room temperature on its own before attempting any modifications. Oh and of course good fit between silicon cord and tube is a must.

Was working first time with PMMA and I must say that at first I was really scared because its not so easy as PETG. But after I found out that I can cut tubes with pipe cutter no problems, whole job was million time easier and faster (whole setup except one tube where I used ready made SLI tube was cut with pipe cutter). And as end bonus I've never damaged (overheated/bubbling/cracking) single piece of acrylic tube, which was nice.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And done.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And done.


Now all we need is another build in this case but with proper watercooling.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> And done.


Apart from the AIO cooler I really love what you've done B.









Why EK should consider making Thermosphere compatible heatsinks for GPU...



Sooooooo smexy.









I went this way because I hate the look of all the little heatsinks and their weakaz Thermal strips. The heatsinks also give the GPU stability to help keep cards from sagging. Similar to the stock heatsink and cover.









If EK made these they *would* sell.









But when you can't get exactly what you want, get creative and do it anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Are you putting that boat in your rig?


It's my Sponsored DOOM build.


----------



## kgtuning

What is everyones average water delta temperature? Just curious.


----------



## nyk20z3

Finally done after months of delays and various issues -


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Finally done after months of delays and various issues -


Looks great, could do with a little more bleeding, but I'm sure time and moving it around a little will work that out.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> What is everyones average water delta temperature? Just curious.


I know you are familiar with my rig's layout so here are some figures which I have been getting while testing everything.

Note that I am running my 6700K at 4.8GHz (cache @ 4.6GHz) and SLI 980Ti's both @ 1500 MHz core with mem @ +500MHz ie 4GHz.

General light loads mine hovers around 1.8C.... (fans @ 550 RPM).

Heavy CPU and GPU loads take it up to 3.5C with fans @ 1000 RPM. With fans @ 800 RPM for the same heavy load, delta temp creeps up to 4.5C.

One thing I have found very interesting is just how little impact flow has on device temps - while we all have known about this to some degree it was interesting to actually test it at the low end of the scale.

Even winding it down to say 0.5 GPM (almost a trickle...







) only resulted in device temp increases of around 3C to 4C max for both CPU and GPUs. So people should be way more concerned about fan/rad cooling efficiency rather than getting hung up about pump flow figures.


----------



## Costas

Dupe post...


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I know you are familiar with my rig's layout so here are some figures which I have been getting while testing everything.
> 
> Note that I am running my 6700K at 4.8GHz (cache @ 4.6GHz) and SLI 980Ti's both @ 1500 MHz core with mem @ +500MHz ie 4GHz.
> 
> General light loads mine hovers around 1.8C.... (fans @ 550 RPM).
> 
> Heavy CPU and GPU loads take it up to 3.5C with fans @ 1000 RPM. With fans @ 800 RPM for the same heavy load, delta temp creeps up to 4.5C.


interesting.. my delta temps are very very similar.


----------



## IT Diva

Thought you guys might like to see how my double sided infinity mirror midplate turned out . . .

They are all chasing LEDs, with 2 symmetrical runs.

I'll post a video as soon as I can figure out how to get one to YouTube, as there are a hundred sequences in the controller and it can run all them or a "playlist" of ones I select.

The effect just blew me away to see how cool it looked . . . so once I have some working mirrors for the big 12 X 20 top panel, I better get a fresh battery for my pacemaker.

For now though . . a few pics.

Darlene





Looking up from underneath, it blends some color to the white rad and white fans:

Can't wait to see this on a large scale when I get the right mirrors in the big top panel . .


----------



## battleaxe

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought you guys might like to see how my double sided infinity mirror midplate turned out . . .
> 
> They are all chasing LEDs, with 2 symmetrical runs.
> 
> I'll post a video as soon as I can figure out how to get one to YouTube, as there are a hundred sequences in the controller and it can run all them or a "playlist of ones I select.
> 
> The effect just blew me away to see how cool it looked . . . so once I have some working mirrors for the big 12 X 20 top panel, I better get a fresh battery for my pacemaker.
> 
> For now though . . a few pics.
> 
> Darlene






That... is pretty freaking cool...

has me thinking of TRON in some way... very nice. Makes me wish I had your patience... And budget for builds.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> 
> That... is pretty freaking cool...
> 
> has me thinking of TRON in some way... very nice. Makes me wish I had your patience... And *budget for builds*.


No kidding. I love to build myself, but darn it not cheap.

As always, awesome builds IT Diva.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> What is everyones average water delta temperature? Just curious.


Hmmm, think with current Alabama temps cranking up, my water temps are staying around 36.9C (note: this is with one 980Ti at full load folding atm) with the temps inside currently at 25.5C (currently night time) Usually lower during the Winter, but no doubt this Summer going to be a killer. Actually the temps where higher during the day at 27.2C inside (I don't have central air so sucks down here big time during hot months).

Probably don't help that I reposition my rigs under the new desk though. Gets very toasty sitting here with one rig folding 24/7 and the other with two Tis cooking.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought you guys might like to see how my double sided infinity mirror midplate turned out . . .
> 
> They are all chasing LEDs, with 2 symmetrical runs.
> 
> I'll post a video as soon as I can figure out how to get one to YouTube, as there are a hundred sequences in the controller and it can run all them or a "playlist" of ones I select.
> 
> The effect just blew me away to see how cool it looked . . . so once I have some working mirrors for the big 12 X 20 top panel, I better get a fresh battery for my pacemaker.
> 
> For now though . . a few pics.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking up from underneath, it blends some color to the white rad and white fans:
> 
> Can't wait to see this on a large scale when I get the right mirrors in the big top panel . .


Looking at the photos, thought that's nice and all, but need to see a video to appreciate the effect.

Watched the video.
Replied to myself, "Holy ****!"

Good job.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought you guys might like to see how my double sided infinity mirror midplate turned out . . .
> 
> They are all chasing LEDs, with 2 symmetrical runs.
> 
> I'll post a video as soon as I can figure out how to get one to YouTube, as there are a hundred sequences in the controller and it can run all them or a "playlist" of ones I select.
> 
> The effect just blew me away to see how cool it looked . . . so once I have some working mirrors for the big 12 X 20 top panel, I better get a fresh battery for my pacemaker.
> 
> For now though . . a few pics.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking up from underneath, it blends some color to the white rad and white fans:
> 
> Can't wait to see this on a large scale when I get the right mirrors in the big top panel . .


Pretty cool mod Diva









Reminds me of KITT. But with RGB.

BTW, how the hell do you link a .gif image??


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> What is everyones average water delta temperature? Just curious.


mine is also 1.8 ( see highlighted temps )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought you guys might like to see how my double sided infinity mirror midplate turned out . . .
> 
> They are all chasing LEDs, with 2 symmetrical runs.
> 
> I'll post a video as soon as I can figure out how to get one to YouTube, as there are a hundred sequences in the controller and it can run all them or a "playlist" of ones I select.
> 
> The effect just blew me away to see how cool it looked . . . so once I have some working mirrors for the big 12 X 20 top panel, I better get a fresh battery for my pacemaker.
> 
> For now though . . a few pics.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Looking up from underneath, it blends some color to the white rad and white fans:
> 
> Can't wait to see this on a large scale when I get the right mirrors in the big top panel . .



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Pretty cool mod Diva
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reminds me of KITT. But with RGB.
> 
> BTW, how the hell do you link a .gif image??


if i understand you to the left of the paperclip is a pic of a pic, click that and upload it !


----------



## Ceadderman

I put my purty heatsink block on here and Diva steals the thunder.


















~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Hahaha.

Swiftech used to do this btw


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

May i suggest someone make a waterpark themed watercooling loop complete with pools, slides and winding tube rides...?


----------



## HexagonRabbit

I have a question about res levels. How much of a difference in pressure will have have if I leave the reservoir filled right below the inlet nozzle? I have a pretty big res (bitspower 400).
The reason I ask is that everything is bled and I like seeing the fluid actually move.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> I have a question about res levels. How much of a difference in pressure will have have if I leave the reservoir filled right below the inlet nozzle? I have a pretty big res (bitspower 400).
> The reason I ask is that everything is bled and I like seeing the fluid actually move.


ASFAR AS I KNOW there wouldn't be a difference in pressure. It'd be more of an issue of IF the water level were to fall there's a higher chance of pulling in air. Also depending on how high your level are you could pull air in at high pump speeds even without losing water.
I also like to see my water moving


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> ASFAR AS I KNOW there wouldn't be a difference in pressure. It'd be more of an issue of IF the water level were to fall there's a higher chance of pulling in air. Also depending on how high your level are you could pull air in at high pump speeds even without losing water.
> I also like to see my water moving


My inlet tube drains a little once I turn my PC off if the water level is below the inlet nozzle. This is the only thing I don't like about the lower water level. It appears that my only option to that if I want to see my fluid moving is Aurora 2 and I'm not touching that stuff again.


----------



## wot

Hi guys!

First time bending pipes!











The hardware is old but I don't need more...
z87 classi 780ti with ek blocks, heatkiller pro iv, koolance top/tube reservoir, EK petg, black ice sr1 480 and sr2 240 radiators, ek pastel orange and the case modded TJ07


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> First time bending pipes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *
> *
> 
> 
> 
> The hardware is old but I don't need more...
> z87 classi 780ti with ek blocks, heatkiller pro iv, koolance top/tube reservoir, EK petg, black ice sr1 480 and sr2 240 radiators, ek pastel orange and the case modded TJ07


Looks Good!

TCO


----------



## nycgtr

Do you bend other types of pipes, that seems ridiculously good for first time. I had my first experience this weekend. Wasted about 9 feet of it before I started getting what I wanted. I didn't have issues with bending prematurely or overheating but the measuring what a pain in the ass. I found it easier to bend free hand then with bending tools.


----------



## Mega Man

some guys are just naturals


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> First time bending pipes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hardware is old but I don't need more...
> z87 classi 780ti with ek blocks, heatkiller pro iv, koolance top/tube reservoir, EK petg, black ice sr1 480 and sr2 240 radiators, ek pastel orange and the case modded TJ07


Love seeing the GPU blocks.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Do you bend other types of pipes, that seems ridiculously good for first time. I had my first experience this weekend. Wasted about 9 feet of it before I started getting what I wanted. I didn't have issues with bending prematurely or overheating but the measuring what a pain in the ass. I found it easier to bend free hand then with bending tools.


This build was my first with hard tubing and I had the exact same issues. My measurements were always off and when trying to correct the mistake, I ended up too short. I am not good at it at all. 90 degree fittings for me from now on.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> First time bending pipes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hardware is old but I don't need more...
> z87 classi 780ti with ek blocks, heatkiller pro iv, koolance top/tube reservoir, EK petg, black ice sr1 480 and sr2 240 radiators, ek pastel orange and the case modded TJ07


Love it. Looks great!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> First time bending pipes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hardware is old but I don't need more...
> z87 classi 780ti with ek blocks, heatkiller pro iv, koolance top/tube reservoir, EK petg, black ice sr1 480 and sr2 240 radiators, ek pastel orange and the case modded TJ07


Good job on the tubing!








The hardware is still good stuff, and it's nice to see the TJ!


----------



## PedroC1999

Are there any versions of the TJ that come with a black inner chassis?


----------



## guitarhero23

For those who have split a 1 tube route into a Y (into two tubes) with one pump, how well to liquid flow through both simultaneously. Do the pumps generally have enough force to send liquid through two runs simultaneously evenly? Does one route tend to fall victim to not really flowing?

What I mean. The run wouldn't be short either.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> For those who have split a 1 tube route into a Y (into two tubes) with one pump, how well to liquid flow through both simultaneously. Do the pumps generally have enough force to send liquid through two runs simultaneously evenly? Does one route tend to fall victim to not really flowing?
> 
> What I mean. The run wouldn't be short either.


In all likelihood the water would take the way of least resistance, so it all depends on what you have after the split. IF you have 2 identical blocks then I doubt there will be much of a difference between the flow of them, but if one has the rads and the other the blocks it's going to be another issue entirely.


----------



## fast_fate

Random







of the day. Bp C89.


----------



## VSG

There's a 7% discount code for the Watercool shop (http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=296668) going on till May 29: OCF-WELCOME. Hopefully this helps someone!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does anyone have an EK one by any chance, would love to knock something off my basket there.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Are there any versions of the TJ that come with a black inner chassis?


No, SilverStone has chosen to leave it as it is, since it's so popular for modding.
A good source of black chassis parts for the TJ07:
http://www.coldzero.eu/23-silverstone-tj07
Ricardo at Coldzero is a great guy, and can do custom parts for them as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Does anyone have an EK one by any chance, would love to knock something off my basket there.


Yea no idea what you are talking about


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There's a 7% discount code for the Watercool shop (http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=296668) going on till May 29: OCF-WELCOME. Hopefully this helps someone!


Anything for ppcs.com? I'm postponing much of my upgrade (quad Ti's







) but i need a few more pieces that should be much simpler to to buy.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anything for ppcs.com? I'm posting much of my upgrade (quad Ti's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but i need a few more pieces that should be much simpler to to buy.


If you can wait a week I am sure we will see some great Memorial Day sales coming!


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> First time bending pipes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hardware is old but I don't need more...
> z87 classi 780ti with ek blocks, heatkiller pro iv, koolance top/tube reservoir, EK petg, black ice sr1 480 and sr2 240 radiators, ek pastel orange and the case modded TJ07


nicely done.
Can I see some vetter shots of that Heatkiller? I am thinking of getting clear version too, I wanna see how it looks with the coolant in as I haven't found many pictures on internet. I'll be running amber/orange coolant but clear, just need to see some pics if you don't mind taking some. thx


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yea no idea what you are talking about


Discount code.


----------



## Mega Man

ah afaik no such code sorry :/


----------



## fast_fate

Anyone got pics or link of a carbon fiber loop they can share.

C47 pressure test passed.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Anyone got pics or link of a carbon fiber loop they can share.
> 
> C47 pressure test passed.


Fast Fate, do you see this as just a visual gimmick like glass? More expensive, but looks sweet. Or does CF tubing have any performance benefits.


----------



## Wolfsbora

I'll take true CF any day, it's the simulated crap that I despise. I would love to have a build with CF.


----------



## Ceadderman

Carbon Rose



http://www.overclock.net/t/1538664/build-log-carbon-rose-in-win-s-frame-carbon-fiber-tubing-2x-gtx-980-i7-4790k-asus-formula-vii/0_20

Is an InWin based mod and the guy used CF tubing. Looked sick as ish. Fell in love first sight.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Fast Fate, do you see this as just a visual gimmick like glass? More expensive, but looks sweet. Or does CF tubing have any performance benefits.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'll take true CF any day, it's the simulated crap that I despise. I would love to have a build with CF.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Carbon Rose
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1538664/build-log-carbon-rose-in-win-s-frame-carbon-fiber-tubing-2x-gtx-980-i7-4790k-asus-formula-vii/0_20
> 
> Is an InWin based mod and the guy used CF tubing. Looked sick as ish. Fell in love first sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yah - cheers - found it.

and the discussion about using carbon fibre tubing before he committed


----------



## prznar1

Why every single build has to be in only two tones.  black and red, white and red etc...





This looks better, than that inwin case build. Atleast in my opinion.


----------



## Ceadderman

Those CL builds do look good, don't get me wrong. But I haven't seen the Carbon Rose for nearly a year or more and *instantly* recalled the name of the build because it simply looks that baddace.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Those CL builds do look good, don't get me wrong. But I haven't seen the Carbon Rose for nearly a year or more and *instantly* recalled the name of the build because it simply looks that baddace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Think those are the CL knockoffs (ThermalTake)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Those CL builds do look good, don't get me wrong. But I haven't seen the Carbon Rose for nearly a year or more and *instantly* recalled the name of the build because it simply looks that baddace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think those are the CL knockoffs (ThermalTake)
Click to expand...

Looks like you're correct DB. My confusion further illustrates that issue that I will continue to try not to bring up.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> 
> 
> *This looks better, than that inwin case build.* Atleast in my opinion.


----------



## SteezyTN

Terrible pictures. I apologize


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> mine is also 1.8 ( see highlighted temps )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if i understand you to the left of the paperclip is a pic of a pic, click that and upload it !


Ahh, so you have to upload it rather than link a .gif

Thanks man


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Those CL builds do look good, don't get me wrong. But I haven't seen the Carbon Rose for nearly a year or more and *instantly* recalled the name of the build because it simply looks that baddace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think those are the CL knockoffs (ThermalTake)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks like you're correct DB. My confusion further illustrates that issue that I will continue to try not to bring up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

why not?

shout it out


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why not?
> 
> shout it out


He's trying to avoid one of those intellectual property theft conversations/arguments as they constantly get brought up with TT and everyone seems to start arguing until somebody finally blows up or BNEG puts them in their place lol.

I do know how he feels though but I won't get into it because I don't want to start anything either.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup, lol and this is still my view point on said topic (well my son put it better then myself lol)


----------



## IT Diva

Just a quick vid of the Core X9 build with the infinity panels working as they should . . .

Both sides are on the case and the vid starts looking up at the underside of the top panel, kinda cool how the midplate panel is reflected nicely towards the front . .





I haven't really got a clue how to photograph it so it looks like it does in actuality, but you at least get the idea.

Darlene


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Terrible pictures. I apologize


Excellent!
That looks SO much better than the tubes routed through the midplate.
Great job!


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Excellent!
> That looks SO much better than the tubes routed through the midplate.
> Great job!


Thats what I'm saying.. It just seems to visually "flow" better IMO.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Excellent!
> That looks SO much better than the tubes routed through the midplate.
> Great job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what I'm saying.. It just seems to visually "flow" better IMO.
Click to expand...

I agree.
That was the impression I got too, it has a nice flow to it now, the way the tubes link up together, and through the reservoirs.


----------



## Ironkidz

Here are my 2 latest build. One smaller factor for lan parties and one goliath for the desk.


----------



## electro2u

Sheesh, icemodz cables are priiiiiiicey.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yah - cheers - found it.
> 
> and the discussion about using carbon fibre tubing before he committed


I was there for the discussion originally but I haven't kept up. Has he had any problems do we know?

Edit: double post sorry
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I haven't really got a clue how to photograph it so it looks like it does in actuality, but you at least get the idea.
> 
> Darlene


We do get the idea, it's amazing of course--but is it that you have slow internet for uploading? I mean, you must have a camera that can do good quality. Let us see the magic more clearly.....


----------



## electro2u

sorry


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Excellent!
> That looks SO much better than the tubes routed through the midplate.
> Great job!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Thats what I'm saying.. It just seems to visually "flow" better IMO.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I agree.
> That was the impression I got too, it has a nice flow to it now, the way the tubes link up together, and through the reservoirs.


Thanks. I really want to avoid drilling too many holes in the midplate, so I will probably route the other tube on the front 240 in the "top" "top" ompartment. Then I'll probably just drill two or three holes for the top 480 and GPU. Looks so much cleaner when I don't run the pump/res tubing down into the midplate.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironkidz*
> 
> Here are my 2 latest build. One smaller factor for lan parties and one goliath for the desk.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What's going on with the tubing, is it sleeved? It kinda reminds me of faucet hose. Either way, I like it


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> What's going on with the tubing, is it sleeved? It kinda reminds me of faucet hose. Either way, I like it


It kind of looks like the standard woven fibre braced tubing you can find at Home Depot or other home renovation (and plumbing) stores.... Which I hope it isn't, because isn't that stuff known for having some pretty bad plasticizer leeching issues?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> What's going on with the tubing, is it sleeved? It kinda reminds me of faucet hose. Either way, I like it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> It kind of looks like the standard woven fibre braced tubing you can find at Home Depot or other home renovation (and plumbing) stores.... Which I hope it isn't, because isn't that stuff known for having some pretty bad plasticizer leeching issues?


My money is on it being...



2475 I.B. HIGH-PURITY PRESSURE TUBING

TYGON® 2475 I.B. high-purity pressure tubing is a plasticizer-free, braid-reinforced tubing that utilizes the latest in polymer technology to provide an entirely clear and flexible tubing choice for sensitive fluid transfer applications. The braid reinforcement makes it an excellent choice for applications with elevated working pressure. TYGON® 2475 I.B. is hydrophobic and will resist the absorption/adsorption of aqueous fluids. This reduction in sorption minimizes the risk of fluid alteration in single- or repeat-use applications. The smooth inner surface of TYGON® 2475 I.B. inhibits particulate entrapment on the tubing wall and reduces the potential for bacterial growth and contamination.

Features/Benefits:
• Exceptionally low absorption/adsorption compared to silicone
• Tough braid reinforcement for elevated working pressures
• Smooth inner surface inhibits particulate entrapment
• Environmentally safe to dispose and reduces disposal costs
• Plasticizer-free
• Meets USP Class VI and FDA criteria

Typical Applications:
• Deionized water systems
• Sterile fill lines
• Cell harvest and media process systems
• Water for injection (WFI) transport
• Preservative fill lines
• Pharmaceutical processing
• Chemical transfer

PPCs - Tygon 2475 I.B. "Plasticizer Free" High-Purity Pressure Tubing - 1/2" ID (3/4" OD)

Amazon - Tygon 2475 I.B. Smooth-Bore High Purity Pressure PVC Tubing, Clear

"_This clear plastic tubing is made of plasticizer-free Tygon formulation 2475 plastic, has a smooth bore, and is for use in transferring fluids in high pressure applications, such as pharmaceutical solutions, without compromising the purity of the fluids. The clear tubing allows unobstructed visual monitoring of flow, and the Tygon formulation 2475 plastic resists damage from chemical cleaners and sanitizers, and contains no plasticizers such as Di(2-ethlhexyl)phthalate (DEHP), which could contaminate transferred fluids. The tubing has a polyester braided core reinforcing its walls for greater strength in high pressure applications. A smooth, non-wetting inner bore prevents particulate build-up and limits absorption and adsorption to further preserve fluid integrity._"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> My money is on it being...
> 
> 
> 
> 2475 I.B. HIGH-PURITY PRESSURE TUBING
> 
> TYGON® 2475 I.B. high-purity pressure tubing is a plasticizer-free, braid-reinforced tubing that utilizes the latest in polymer technology to provide an entirely clear and flexible tubing choice for sensitive fluid transfer applications. The braid reinforcement makes it an excellent choice for applications with elevated working pressure. TYGON® 2475 I.B. is hydrophobic and will resist the absorption/adsorption of aqueous fluids. This reduction in sorption minimizes the risk of fluid alteration in single- or repeat-use applications. The smooth inner surface of TYGON® 2475 I.B. inhibits particulate entrapment on the tubing wall and reduces the potential for bacterial growth and contamination.
> 
> Features/Benefits:
> • Exceptionally low absorption/adsorption compared to silicone
> • Tough braid reinforcement for elevated working pressures
> • Smooth inner surface inhibits particulate entrapment
> • Environmentally safe to dispose and reduces disposal costs
> • Plasticizer-free
> • Meets USP Class VI and FDA criteria
> 
> Typical Applications:
> • Deionized water systems
> • Sterile fill lines
> • Cell harvest and media process systems
> • Water for injection (WFI) transport
> • Preservative fill lines
> • Pharmaceutical processing
> • Chemical transfer
> 
> PPCs - Tygon 2475 I.B. "Plasticizer Free" High-Purity Pressure Tubing - 1/2" ID (3/4" OD)
> 
> Amazon - Tygon 2475 I.B. Smooth-Bore High Purity Pressure PVC Tubing, Clear
> 
> "_This clear plastic tubing is made of plasticizer-free Tygon formulation 2475 plastic, has a smooth bore, and is for use in transferring fluids in high pressure applications, such as pharmaceutical solutions, without compromising the purity of the fluids. The clear tubing allows unobstructed visual monitoring of flow, and the Tygon formulation 2475 plastic resists damage from chemical cleaners and sanitizers, and contains no plasticizers such as Di(2-ethlhexyl)phthalate (DEHP), which could contaminate transferred fluids. The tubing has a polyester braided core reinforcing its walls for greater strength in high pressure applications. A smooth, non-wetting inner bore prevents particulate build-up and limits absorption and adsorption to further preserve fluid integrity._"


Dunno about that,I had some of that (it was REALLY old tho) and the bore weave is different iirc.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dunno about that,I had some of that (it was REALLY old tho) and the bore weave is different iirc.


I have some stashed in a box somewhere..
Never used it.
Was just too stiff for the lines I was wanting run at the time.

While I can't vouch for all the quoted marketing material above..
I can say from 1st hand experience that the TYGON® 2475 I.B tube is extremely stiff and not easy to work with.
Potential buyers should be aware of this characteristic before making a purchase decision.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Guys, my first bend with PETG.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I have some stashed in a box somewhere..
> *Never used it.
> Was just too stiff for the lines I was wanting run at the time.*
> 
> While I can't vouch for all the quoted marketing material above..
> I can say from 1st hand experience that the TYGON® 2475 I.B tube is extremely stiff and not easy to work with.
> Potential buyers should be aware of this characteristic before making a purchase decision.


Exactly that.

I think anything Plasticizer free and double bored is going to be hellish to work with.


----------



## 0ldChicken

I just started my first build log last night! Going to be using external rads in the table below the case and I'm super excited! http://www.overclock.net/t/1600473/build-log-watercooled-corsair-240-4790k-sli-980-external-rads#post_25171911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Guys, my first bend with PETG.


nice job, that is a tough bend to start with!


----------



## sakundes

Sharing my Pringles Rig. The Heatkiller waterblock weighs 1 kilo and bends the PCB like heck. I had to ******* my solution out of a pringles can. Cut out the can in half and have it serve as weight support for the block. Cheap AF and matches the whole green theme hehe XD

MasterCase Pro 5
4770k on XSPC Rasa block
GTX 760 on Heatkiller X3 block
G1.Sniper B6
8GB Dominators
EKWB 240 top Rad plus EKWB 120 exhaust Rad
Full system liquid cooled













Looking to upgrade my 760. Im waiting for the 1070 if my reference 760 block can fit into reference 1070 cards, and if not, I'll upgrade to Palit 970's which my block can fit to


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I just started my first build log last night! Going to be using external rads in the table below the case and I'm super excited! http://www.overclock.net/t/1600473/build-log-watercooled-corsair-240-4790k-sli-980-external-rads#post_25171911
> nice job, that is a tough bend to start with!


I was just going to ask, have anyone here made a separate cooling system to cool your computers?

Googled external water cooling, didn't find much though.

New build going up soon


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I was just going to ask, have anyone here made a separate cooling system to cool your computers?
> 
> Googled external water cooling, didn't find much though.
> 
> New build going up soon




You could also have the cooling attached to the case, or hung on the wall. Whatevers easier for you


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I just started my first build log last night! Going to be using external rads in the table below the case and I'm super excited! http://www.overclock.net/t/1600473/build-log-watercooled-corsair-240-4790k-sli-980-external-rads#post_25171911
> nice job, that is a tough bend to start with!
> 
> 
> 
> I was just going to ask, have anyone here made a separate cooling system to cool your computers?
> 
> Googled external water cooling, didn't find much though.
> 
> New build going up soon
Click to expand...

I built one years ago, still have it . . .

Has its own PSU that turns on when the host PC turns on, (connects with a 4 pin molex for control)

The pumps and fan controllers are bult it, it's a totally self contained cooling module that connects to the host with QD and the Molex.

Buggers won't up load the pic, will have to try again later . . .

Got it this time . .



Darlene


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakundes*
> 
> snip


Nice







.

Is that pump the Phobya DC12-260? How's the flow with the CPU and GPU block with 2 radiators?

I've got the EK DCP4.0 pump (Phobya DC12-400) and it is so damn big







!

Even after measuring the dimensions several times before buying it is a big pump and seems like it'll be fun and games fitting it in the case so was curious how the smaller model held up.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So I know we will be getting waterblocks for the new founders editions according to EK at or near launch. Has any block manufacturer let slip if they have intentions of doing custom pcb ones asap? I mean screw this $100 "premium" blower design that won't be used for us watercoolers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakundes*
> 
> Sharing my Pringles Rig. The Heatkiller waterblock weighs 1 kilo and bends the PCB like heck. I had to ******* my solution out of a pringles can. Cut out the can in half and have it serve as weight support for the block. Cheap AF and matches the whole green theme hehe XD
> 
> MasterCase Pro 5
> 4770k on XSPC Rasa block
> GTX 760 on Heatkiller X3 block
> G1.Sniper B6
> 8GB Dominators
> EKWB 240 top Rad plus EKWB 120 exhaust Rad
> Full system liquid cooled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking to upgrade my 760. Im waiting for the 1070 if my reference 760 block can fit into reference 1070 cards, and if not, I'll upgrade to Palit 970's which my block can fit to


I don't think that is so much the waterblock as the way you ran the tube from the rad to the GPU. That is more than likely pushing down on the card which isn't helping the added wait of the block. I had a heatkiller on my 670(680 pcb) that didn't sag too much.


----------



## sakundes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Is that pump the Phobya DC12-260? How's the flow with the CPU and GPU block with 2 radiators?
> 
> I've got the EK DCP4.0 pump (Phobya DC12-400) and it is so damn big
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> Even after measuring the dimensions several times before buying it is a big pump and seems like it'll be fun and games fitting it in the case so was curious how the smaller model held up.


That's an EKWB Pump IIRC. cant really remember. Does its job quite well. Been with me for 2 years now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> So I know we will be getting waterblocks for the new founders editions according to EK at or near launch. Has any block manufacturer let slip if they have intentions of doing custom pcb ones asap? I mean screw this $100 "premium" blower design that won't be used for us watercoolers.
> I don't think that is so much the waterblock as the way you ran the tube from the rad to the GPU. That is more than likely pushing down on the card which isn't helping the added wait of the block. I had a heatkiller on my 670(680 pcb) that didn't sag too much.


And which is why i had that pringles can to support the weight of the block. It sags without it hehe


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sakundes*
> 
> snip
> 
> 
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Is that pump the Phobya DC12-260? How's the flow with the CPU and GPU block with 2 radiators?
> 
> I've got the EK DCP4.0 pump (Phobya DC12-400) and it is so damn big
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> Even after measuring the dimensions several times before buying it is a big pump and seems like it'll be fun and games fitting it in the case so was curious how the smaller model held up.
Click to expand...

I have a DCP 2.2 in my sig rig with 2 blocks and 2 rads and several elbows and no problems. The DCP is often overlooked as a good value pump. The 2.2 is about 60% the size of the 4.0 I believe.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I have a DCP 2.2 in my sig rig with 2 blocks and 2 rads and several elbows and no problems. The DCP is often overlooked as a good value pump. The 2.2 is about 60% the size of the 4.0 I believe.


Yeah, i suspect i may have been a bit enthusiastic/overkill settling on the 4.0







. The inlet/outlet ports are in an odd orientation for how i want to set my loop up.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I have a DCP 2.2 in my sig rig with 2 blocks and 2 rads and several elbows and no problems. The DCP is often overlooked as a good value pump. The 2.2 is about 60% the size of the 4.0 I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, i suspect i may have been a bit enthusiastic/overkill settling on the 4.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The inlet/outlet ports are in an odd orientation for how i want to set my loop up.
Click to expand...

Remember that pump should work in any orientation except upside down, so you have some flexibility.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I built one years ago, still have it . . .
> 
> Has its own PSU that turns on when the host PC turns on, (connects with a 4 pin molex for control)
> 
> The pumps and fan controllers are bult it, it's a totally self contained cooling module that connects to the host with QD and the Molex.
> 
> Buggers won't up load the pic, will have to try again later . . .
> 
> Darlene


I've been thinking about using a separate PSU in there but I'm not sure I will since it'll be so close it should be easy to drop a molex cable down from the PSU. If you don't mind, what exactly did you use to connect them? I've seen a couple of dual PSU connectors around but most jumper off the 24 pin iirc and are a bit pricy


----------



## eucalyptus

Hmm, I have been looking for hours now.

How do people make these "White acrylic light floor"? I remember I have seen them before, but can't find them now.

Like the floor of a case, and it's all white and with strong led lights under it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, I have been looking for hours now.
> 
> How do people make these "White acrylic light floor"? I remember I have seen them before, but can't find them now.
> 
> Like the floor of a case, and it's all white and with strong led lights under it


Its called an s light panel,I will post the construction method when I'm home from work.
Be aware,some parts require machining.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, I have been looking for hours now.
> 
> How do people make these "White acrylic light floor"? I remember I have seen them before, but can't find them now.
> 
> Like the floor of a case, and it's all white and with strong led lights under it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its called an s light panel,I will post the construction method when I'm home from work.
> 
> Be aware,some parts require machining.
Click to expand...

Looking forward to seeing your method before I decide to try one myself.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was planning on adding a light panel to the base of the M8 main case to conceal the ssd's and take advantage of the CableMod wide-beams I have obtained. Just need to get measurements for that and for cable lengths (cable lengths are for another portion)


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its called an s light panel,I will post the construction method when I'm home from work.
> Be aware,some parts require machining.


Thanks a lot man! Appreciate it









I looked it up on Youtube now and it would be interesting to see how you people implement it to pc cases


----------



## kidcapp

Switched from White Pastel to X1 Clear













Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## fast_fate

Hitting your favorite wc shop very soon









pre-release sample info at the usual place


----------



## Ceadderman

^The above is proof you needn't copy someone else's product.

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sadly Koolance are on my 'do not buy from' list after having 2 D5 tops have the pumps just fall out while the rig was running.....

I like the black and clear tho.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> Switched from White Pastel to X1 Clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow!

Look he has this light panel floor





































Kidcapp, how did you do your floor? Please please let me know


----------



## electro2u

The Koolance black QDCs are the reason I won't touch them with a 10 foot pole.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The Koolance black QDCs are the reason I won't touch them with a 10 foot pole.


I remember that whole issue, was pretty bad, although I have 2 Koolance fittings and a block in separate rigs. my fittings are tiny 90 degree ones in my intel rig and the block is in my AMD rig cooling the VRM.


----------



## fast_fate

After 13 months since the last update on -- Salive8 -- I finally got a couple of things done including a few small bends


----------



## kidcapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Wow!
> 
> Look he has this light panel floor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kidcapp, how did you do your floor? Please please let me know


I also have one above to even out the lighting. I will PM you the details.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its called an s light panel,I will post the construction method when I'm home from work.
> Be aware,some parts require machining.


Just wondering, wouldn't it be much easier, and maybe cheaper to use an EL sheet/panel instead?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> I also have one above to even out the lighting. I will PM you the details.


Thanks buddy! Really appreciate it









+ rep


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> After 13 months since the last update on -- Salive8 -- I finally got a couple of things done including a few small bends


Yeah!
It's "Salive" and it's making me "Salive8!"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Just wondering, wouldn't it be much easier, and maybe cheaper to use an EL sheet/panel instead?


It would but EL panels are not long lived and,if you buy a less than great quality driver,can be bloody whiny things.

So..

If you see the structure of the panel below,you will see a grid in the material. That grid is a v cut grid,CNC'd. You put a sheet of your chosen colour both sides of the panel and wire LED's along the edges facing into the panel.



IF you took a side view the panel would look like...

__________________________
'-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-'

Or have v's on both sides.

Volia,sLight.


----------



## axipher

So looking at a side profile, all the grid lines would be most likely cut with some angled bit of sorts, I'm assuming a 45 degree bit would be good?

Also any info the spacing of the grid and the depth? Do the grid cuts get deeper the further form the light source you get? I know with light rods like on BMW the V-grooves in the rod get deeper and deeper the further away from the light source they get to maintain uniform light.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So looking at a side profile, all the grid lines would be most likely cut with some angled bit of sorts, I'm assuming a 45 degree bit would be good?
> 
> Also any info the spacing of the grid and the depth? Do the grid cuts get deeper the further form the light source you get? I know with light rods like on BMW the V-grooves in the rod get deeper and deeper the further away from the light source they get to maintain uniform light.


Ideally you would have it lit from both ends,

The actual bit type is a 90 v cutter,you could easily get away with a 90 chamfer bit too. The angles correspond to the entire profile of the bit rather than its resulting cutting angle.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So looking at a side profile, all the grid lines would be most likely cut with some angled bit of sorts, I'm assuming a 45 degree bit would be good?
> 
> Also any info the spacing of the grid and the depth? Do the grid cuts get deeper the further form the light source you get? I know with light rods like on BMW the V-grooves in the rod get deeper and deeper the further away from the light source they get to maintain uniform light.
> 
> 
> 
> Ideally you would have it lit from both ends,
> 
> The actual bit type is a 90 v cutter,you could easily get away with a 90 chamfer bit too. The angles correspond to the entire profile of the bit rather than its resulting cutting angle.
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## VeritronX

Current progress on my watercooled ncase take two.. the side panel fits on this time, though with only about 2mm to spare. Just have to fit the rad to the roof and add in the last two connecting tubes before I can leak test it later.


----------



## SteezyTN

Is it okay to run tubing through this kind of port arrangement? Or is it better to have them used in the same side of the rad (if that makes since)? Would having it like this have an effect on flow?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@SteezyTN - Looks fine to me. All those ports end up in the same chamber, as easy to see by looking into them. Whatever makes the tubing run neater. That's what makes multi-port rads so convenient!


----------



## IT Diva

Pic of a remote cooling module that was asked about a few pages back:



Darlene


----------



## sdrawkcab

I read through some search results to avoid PrimoChill LRT Pro and get PrimoChill Advanced LRT instead. Is this tubing the appropriate PrimoChill model? I see the correct name but appears to have newer packaging, I'm trying to avoid buying the wrong model.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup that's fine. Though I choose to avoid it altogether.

~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

Decided I'm going to run the good ol' distilled water and biocide from now on.


----------



## superflex

All controversy aside, anybody ever check out the Thermaltake PETG and fittings? Fry's by my place started selling the fittings, rads, pump/res, block, and coolant.

Staying away from the coolant, it's got that there glycol stuff in it.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Pic of a remote cooling module that was asked about a few pages back:
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Thanks!
















Is it yours? The acrylic case looks awesome!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superflex*
> 
> All controversy aside, anybody ever check out the Thermaltake PETG and fittings? Fry's by my place started selling the fittings, rads, pump/res, block, and coolant.
> 
> Staying away from the coolant, it's got that there glycol stuff in it.


Staying away from their aluminum rads is the most important thing.


----------



## smithy083

long time reader first post my beast pretty simple layout inside a cooler master storm Stryker case


----------



## superflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Staying away from their aluminum rads is the most important thing.


Lol yeah was literally just about to edit my post regarding the rads. I have my 360 and 240 for my cpu/gpu loop. Probably gonna be dropping the extra 240 since I never stress the cpu and gpu at the same time anyways


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Pic of a remote cooling module that was asked about a few pages back:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it yours? The acrylic case looks awesome!
Click to expand...

Yes, it's mine . . .

Started with a regular clear PC case, and worked some table saw magic on it . . . along with some careful engineering . . . to shorten it up, but retain the bays and back panel.

The internal PSU is a 12V, 400W, bay mount auxiliary PSU, while the circuit board provides needed 5V supply for the other bay devices that need 12V and 5V, as well as the module for the Koolance flow meter.

There's a dual D5 dual bay res, with a third D5 below.

18 speed controlled, Lamptron FC9) fans on the Mora Pro rad.

Crap, can't upload pics again . . . . buggers


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithy083*
> 
> long time reader first post my beast pretty simple layout inside a cooler master storm Stryker case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Try swapping the tubing runs slightly, they cross and it looks kinda untidy. Tubing always looks best when they're nice clean runs that don't cross one another. Looks good though just


----------



## ruffhi

Here is my duel pump assemble (_Aquacomputer D5 Pump Core PWM with heatkiller D5 tops sitting on a 120.2 Bottom Accessory Mount from CaseLabs_). Waiting for the Mercury S5 to be shipped.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithy083*
> 
> long time reader first post my beast pretty simple layout inside a cooler master storm Stryker case


Looks good.











One tip though,you don't need a radiator between components. Try going from the gpu to the cpu then rear rad. Then you can hide the long tubing run to the front at the top of the case.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One tip though,you don't need a radiator between components. Try going from the gpu to the cpu then rear rad. Then you can hide the long tubing run to the front at the top of the case.


The problem with that is he then has 2 components he's trying to cool with 1x 120mm rad.


----------



## sinnedone

Are you sure? I'm on mobile, but it looks like a 120mm rad at the rear and either a 120 or 240 at the bottom. Temps equalize anyway so the order doesn't really matter.


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> So I know we will be getting waterblocks for the new founders editions according to EK at or near launch. Has any block manufacturer let slip if they have intentions of doing custom pcb ones asap? I mean screw this $100 "premium" blower design that won't be used for us watercoolers.
> I don't think that is so much the waterblock as the way you ran the tube from the rad to the GPU. That is more than likely pushing down on the card which isn't helping the added wait of the block. I had a heatkiller on my 670(680 pcb) that didn't sag too much.


I will be doing waterblocks for both the founders editions and aftermarket PCB's once available. They will be full size blocks too.

Regards,

-Jason


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, I have been looking for hours now.
> 
> How do people make these "White acrylic light floor"? I remember I have seen them before, but can't find them now.
> 
> Like the floor of a case, and it's all white and with strong led lights under it


You can also do a pretty dang good job with the light panel by using frosted acrylic and using the simple LED strips, the frosted acrylic will allow the light to appear more uniform and you won't see the rows of LEDS.

Currently working on this for a custom build.

Cheers.

-Jason


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Are you sure? I'm on mobile, but it looks like a 120mm rad at the rear and either a 120 or 240 at the bottom. Temps equalize anyway so the order doesn't really matter.


I'm not disputing loop order lol I'm just saying as a general rule of thumb 120mm rad per component is standard, which he has in the loop from what I can see on my mac.


----------



## Gabrielzm

cool:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3401


----------



## VSG

That's cool


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> cool:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3401
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2785029/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


thanks for posting that. I will be purchasing that momentarily as I've already killed two 1tb m.2 drives due to over-heating. I even had a thermal strips over them but those things just get too damn hot especially when you're really taxing them. I wasn't using mine for an OS or anything either though I was straight number crunching.


----------



## gree

Are ek 13/19mm afc fittings not compatible with 1/2 x 3/4 LRT ?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Are ek 13/19mm afc fittings not compatible with 1/2 x 3/4 LRT ?


They definitely are as I'm using them right now and haven't had a leak yet nor did I have any issues getting them to fit. Are you sure they sent you the right size tubing and fittings?


----------



## gree

Yeah they're the correct sizes. I got the fitting in the tube I just can't get the locking ring to go up


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Yeah they're the correct sizes. I got the fitting in the tube I just can't get the locking ring to go up


try to heat up the end of the tube a bit. Submerge it in warm/mildly hot water for 30 seconds / 1 minute or so and try again.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> try to heat up the end of the tube a bit. Submerge it in warm/mildly hot water for 30 seconds / 1 minute or so and try again.


I think I put it on backwards. The groves are on the wrong side. Now let's see if I can get it off, I kind of forced it on pretty tight

Edit got it. How far am I suppose to get it?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> I think I put it on backwards. The groves are on the wrong side. Now let's see if I can get it off, I kind of forced it on pretty tight
> 
> Edit got it. How far am I suppose to get it?
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2785162/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


it's hard to tell from the picture but I'd say Tighten it as much as you can by hand and then maybe another quarter turn but you don't want to over tighten it. If for some reason it's still too loose which I doubt it will be you can tighten another quarter turn but I doubt this is necessary.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> try to heat up the end of the tube a bit. Submerge it in warm/mildly hot water for 30 seconds / 1 minute or so and try again.


This, you have to do this or it will be a nightmare, you need to work fast too because as soon as it cools it goes firm again. Everytime I've used A-LRT my forearms have had a bigger workout than a teen first discovering adult websites...


----------



## gree

Hey I'm cutting the other end, if it's not 100% flat will it leak?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Hey I'm cutting the other end, if it's not 100% flat will it leak?


It will be fine, the compression collar will compress the tube a bit higher up and make it seal. My gf's rig has loads of those in her loop and it's bone dry inside the case.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Hey I'm cutting the other end, if it's not 100% flat will it leak?


a clean cut is always preferable and just good practice. That cut is way to serrated. If you don't have and don't want to have or expend on something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-1-1-4-in-Poly-Pipe-Ergo-Cutter-26120/202206817?cm_mmc=shopping-_-shopzilla-_-D26-_-202206817&szredirectid=14637882683110180784110070301008005&gclid=CPGo2J7s6cwCFYqSgQodTjMMsQ&gclsrc=ds

then you should use a sharp scissor and make one big smooth cut not several small ones.

It will leak as it is? Perhaps not but it can happen and you are open your flank to it...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> a clean cut is always preferable and just good practice. That cut is way to serrated. If you don't have and don't want to have or expend on something like this:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-1-1-4-in-Poly-Pipe-Ergo-Cutter-26120/202206817?cm_mmc=shopping-_-shopzilla-_-D26-_-202206817&szredirectid=14637882683110180784110070301008005&gclid=CPGo2J7s6cwCFYqSgQodTjMMsQ&gclsrc=ds
> 
> then you should use a sharp scissor and make one big smooth cut not several small ones.
> 
> It will leak as it is? Perhaps not but it can happen and you are open your flank to it...


Agreed, but I'm willing to bet it will be fine. Pipe cutters are always a nice buy. Was it here that someone posted a little dremel holder they used to cut acrylic tubing like a mini (and very cute) bench saw?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Agreed, but I'm willing to bet it will be fine. Pipe cutters are always a nice buy. Was it here that someone posted a little dremel holder they used to cut acrylic tubing like a mini (and very cute) bench saw?


Yeah, the mini saw you can buy at Harbor Freight.

I actually bought one when I do my next go at rigid when I redo my folder rig over into full water cool.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> cool:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3401


Pretty cool indeed, reasonably priced too.

A nickel version would be nice also.


----------



## gree

.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, the mini saw you can buy at Harbor Freight.
> 
> I actually bought one when I do my next go at rigid when I redo my folder rig over into full water cool.


Have you got a link or anything to one so I can get one for future builds because the hacksaw job is a major PITA.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Have you got a link or anything to one so I can get one for future builds because the hacksaw job is a major PITA.


http://m.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

That's the one I got for acrylic


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> http://m.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
> 
> That's the one I got for acrylic


Rep+ Thanks! Will grab one of these for my next build and enjoy easy life.


----------



## gree

Added the Primochill in the back, had force the back to close.
I did my best with the cuts but neither my saw, scissors, or exacto could make it even. And I don't have any funds to but the tool. I'll find out when I test it, if it leaks.

Now if I can get the front done.


----------



## Domler

@gree@Benjiw
Using it as we speak. Quick perfect straight cuts. I'm using 16mm and have to rotate slightly to cut all the way through. For 12mm,"shink", done, it's that quick. I love it. F a hack saw.

Random rant. Why the heck can't I upload pics from my phone?


----------



## gree

Not going to try tonight, but i wiil using a ton of paper towels... i dont trust my work.

I ran out of stops, so i need one for my res.


----------



## smithy083

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Are you sure? I'm on mobile, but it looks like a 120mm rad at the rear and either a 120 or 240 at the bottom. Temps equalize anyway so the order doesn't really matter.


240 on the bottom had the single 120 spare thought I'd use it


----------



## Crosshatch3D

You guys can find it cheaper for sure, but this is really what you want to use...for cutting softer tubes.

A little heat on a razor also goes a long way.

http://www.micromark.com/duplicating-jig-for-cutting-strip-and-tube-stock,9273.html

Regards,

-Jason


----------



## nabarun

Updating my TJ11 soon to Glass tubing+ changing color scheme to orange & black cause i'm tired of black & red .
Sorry for the crappy phone qualtiy. I will post better ones once it's fnished


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Stuff
> 
> 
> 
> cool:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3401


I would love a nickel version to play around with. Have any idea if one is coming later? If not, one of these days I'll probably pick one up.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> I would love a nickel version to play around with. Have any idea if one is coming later? If not, one of these days I'll probably pick one up.


We should ask @Shoggy. I think this were just launched cause I stumble upon while checking an order I place at Aquacomputer early this week and it was not there yet by then...In any case I think is pretty cool and worth for those running m.2 951 for example... There is a non-watercooled version too.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Almost done first card


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> he would still be cooling 2 components with 3x 120 of rad.


Lol seriously, don't start. From what I can see it's 2x 120mm rads because of the lack of space in that case. That's all I was saying, not disputing loop order or anything of that nature.


----------



## wermad

Anyone have a gts nemesis white?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Almost done first card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ooo, another hiding the block under shroud?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone have a gts nemesis white?




Just sold a GTS 360 White along with a GTX 240 White.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just sold a GTS 360 White along with a GTX 240 White.


Those look sexy, still need to put your monsta in my AMD rig, just not had the time. I have loads of rads and no time. Hows it going by the way, are you well?


----------



## khemist

Good ta, looking forward to doing my Caselabs BH7 build next month!.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Good ta, looking forward to doing my Caselabs BH7 build next month!.


Haha nice!!!! I hope there is a build log?


----------



## khemist

Probably just stick a few pics up if it turns out decent, i'm using nickel plated brass tubing.


----------



## gree

I need to find out why pump didn't turn on in my loop.

If I connect the pump out to the res top and fill the res, can I test it? Or will it suck in air


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> I need to find out why pump didn't turn on in my loop.
> 
> If I connect the pump out to the res top and fill the res, can I test it? Or will it suck in air


I'm not sure what you mean?


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean?




This. I wanna test the pump outside of loop, to see if it turns on.
I was trying to fill my loop yesterday and the pump wouldnt turn on


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> 
> 
> This. I wanna test the pump outside of loop, to see if it turns on.
> I was trying to fill my loop yesterday and the pump wouldnt turn on


What pump do you have? A D5 PWM or Vario? if the pump is a PWM pump you need to plug it into a PWM header that is powered or a fan header to SATA/Molex connector.


----------



## pc-illiterate

*EDIT* - like here with the pwm pump. it will run when only connected to 12v only it will be at 60%


----------



## gree

Its a vario.

I tried both with and without it plugged into a fan header.

I was just worried id suck in air. Im good?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Its a vario.
> 
> I tried both with and without it plugged into a fan header.
> 
> I was just worried id suck in air. Im good?


if you mean the picture you drew out, youll be fine. i would use a longer chunk of tubing but itll work. its just a small loop


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> J?
> 
> *EDIT* - like here with the pwm pump. it will run when only connected to 12v only it will be at 60%


Msybe my psu wasnt giving 12v? Its a evga 850 p2


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Its a vario.
> 
> I tried both with and without it plugged into a fan header.
> 
> I was just worried id suck in air. Im good?


If it's a Vario it should run when plugged into a molex connector and your 24pin jumped, never had this issue with my 3 vario pumps, possibly a bad connection?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Msybe my psu wasnt giving 12v? Its a evga 850 p2


Did you receive a PSU tester tool with the PSU? I got one with my 750w G2, if you connect the molex to the D5 plug then plug that tool into your 24pin it should run your pump.

Before someone tries to call BS I can say I've done it twice before and it works.


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Did you receive a PSU tester tool with the PSU? I got one with my 750w G2, if you connect the molex to the D5 plug then plug that tool into your 24pin it should run your pump.
> 
> Before someone tries to call BS I can say I've done it twice before and it works.


Oh i forgot i had that. I googled it and i think maybe eco mode might be causing me to be outputting less than 12v


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Oh i forgot i had that. I googled it and i think maybe eco mode might be causing me to be outputting less than 12v


No it works even in ECO mode, can confirm this because I had eco mode switched on when I leak tested for 12 hours.


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gree*
> 
> Oh i forgot i had that. I googled it and i think maybe eco mode might be causing me to be outputting less than 12v


the molex will give you 12V for your pump between the red wire and 1 of the black(if you haven't sleeved wire that is) so if you connected the molex to the pump and the 24 pin MB connector is jumped then there should be 12V for your pump and therefor it should run if not broken...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> the molex will give you 12V for your pump between the red wire and 1 of the black(if you haven't sleeved wire that is) so if you connected the molex to the pump and the 24 pin MB connector is jumped then there should be 12V for your pump and therefor it should run if not broken...


Pretty much, only thing I can think of is if one of the pins had been pushed out or something or possible that the modular cable wasn't in the correct position or even not connected to the PSU fully.


----------



## MedRed

Working on a new project with old hardware. I have an epic build planned for Skylake-E, but wanted some practice bending copper ahead of time. Progress so far.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> the molex will give you 12V for your pump between the red wire and 1 of the black


arent all psu red wires 5v and 12v is yellow?


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Working on a new project with old hardware. I have an epic build planned for Skylake-E, but wanted some practice bending copper ahead of time. Progress so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome sir.








although I personally would prefer the cobber tubing to have some nickel plating or chrome on them but thats just me...


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> arent all psu red wires 5v and 12v is yellow?


yep my bad yellow = 12 Red = 5...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> arent all psu red wires 5v and 12v is yellow?


He means the red and black wires on the pump side, not the PSU?


----------



## gree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Pretty much, only thing I can think of is if one of the pins had been pushed out or something or possible that the modular cable wasn't in the correct position or even not connected to the PSU fully.


I'll double check those things. Pretty sure they were fine. Might of got a DOA pump.


----------



## MedRed

Thank you! The tubing will be plated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Just sold a GTS 360 White along with a GTX 240 White.


Ty, those look gorgeous. I'm not a fan of the wrinkle "charcoal" finish and red is a bit too much for me, so I'm going with white. I'm moving and my temporary place cannot accomodate my TX10D. So in the mean time, I wanna pick up a X71 and use some GTS' along with some GTX's to possibly cool four Maxwells







. From Stren's review, it seems the GTS is one or the best slim rad and the GTX is up there with its competition. might be time to retire this behemouth of a case and get some newer rads as well. Downsizing is a challenge too, so I'm eager to take it on if i do go with this setup. +1


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Working on a new project with old hardware. I have an epic build planned for Skylake-E, but wanted some practice bending copper ahead of time. Progress so far.


Any wrinkling on the bottom side of the pipes, looks sick!

-Jason


----------



## MedRed

Thank Jason! No wrinkling at all. My only issue is that I wasn't paying attention to the orientation on the 2nd bend on the first few pipes, so some of them are askew. From the front, you can't really tell. I'm glad i got in some bending experience before my next build. I'll post more pics as it progresses.


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Thank Jason! No wrinkling at all. My only issue is that I wasn't paying attention to the orientation on the 2nd bend on the first few pipes, so some of them are askew. From the front, you can't really tell. I'm glad i got in some bending experience before my next build. I'll post more pics as it progresses.


Cool, nice to know.

Yea, this is a fun thread. Hopefully I can contribute some of my builds, but not quite yet.

Regards,

-Jason


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Working on a new project with old hardware. I have an epic build planned for Skylake-E, but wanted some practice bending copper ahead of time. Progress so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i really really like the way this flows !!!!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm moving and my temporary place cannot accomodate my TX10D. So in the mean time, I wanna pick up a X71 and use some GTS' along with some GTX's to possibly cool four Maxwells
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . From Stren's review, it seems the GTS is one or the best slim rad and the GTX is up there with its competition. might be time to retire this behemouth of a case and get some newer rads as well. Downsizing is a challenge too, so I'm eager to take it on if i do go with this setup. +1


please tell me you are at least keeping your tx10 !!!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithy083*
> 
> 240 on the bottom had the single 120 spare thought I'd use it


Go right ahead if you have it.







Don't know what your case fan situation is in the front and top, but you might want to experiment with intake vs exhaust on that rear 120. Might make a couple degree difference after long gaming runs or benchmarking.

Definitely think about changing the tubing order. I know its personal preference but I think it would clean up the interior a bit.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Go right ahead if you have it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know what your case fan situation is in the front and top, but you might want to experiment with intake vs exhaust on that rear 120. Might make a couple degree difference after long gaming runs or benchmarking.
> 
> Definitely think about changing the tubing order. I know its personal preference but I think it would clean up the interior a bit.


Ahhh so it is a 240, either way I agree, neater tube runs make a world of difference to the overall look of a custom looped rig.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Working on a new project with old hardware. I have an epic build planned for Skylake-E, but wanted some practice bending copper ahead of time. Progress so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it. Very much







more please


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ooo, another hiding the block under shroud?


Yep, bit more of thinking required this time around :/


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I like it. Very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more please


Thank you! I'll post more as things progress.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i really really like the way this flows !!!!!!!


Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crosshatch3D*
> 
> Cool, nice to know.
> 
> Yea, this is a fun thread. Hopefully I can contribute some of my builds, but not quite yet.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> -Jason


You should!


----------



## prznar1

Guys, im about to change my case and this will force me to change my old but gold thermochill 60mm fat to something slimer. Any good options? I noticed in few test that HW labs gts nemesis is presenting outstanding performance. But the test is damn old. TDP of my system will be about the same as it is now. Maybe ill add 2 card with similar tdp of my current gtx 660 (probably cf from polaris 10)


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, im about to change my case and this will force me to change my old but gold thermochill 60mm fat to something slimer. Any good options? I noticed in few test that HW labs gts nemesis is presenting outstanding performance. But the test is damn old. TDP of my system will be about the same as it is now. Maybe ill add 2 card with similar tdp of my current gtx 660 (probably cf from polaris 10)


There are a few really good options to choose from.
Your intended fan speed is the factor which determines 90% of radiator performance, so the best rad for you may not necessarily be the best for everyone.

Most recently published and therefor has the most up to date comparisons (Slim 360mm) is the "_Swiftech MCR320-XP 360mm Radiator Review_"

Does it really matter how old / recent a review it is so long as it's not had any revisions on the model which may effect performance ??
So long as the performance data you are looking for is there (and trustworthy) - when it was published matters not I think


----------



## Sazexa

I guess you can count me in. Basically just finished up my system.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> There are a few really good options to choose from.
> Your intended fan speed is the factor which determines 90% of radiator performance, so the best rad for you may not necessarily be the best for everyone.
> 
> Most recently published and therefor has the most up to date comparisons (Slim 360mm) is the "_Swiftech MCR320-XP 360mm Radiator Review_"
> 
> Does it really matter how old / recent a review it is so long as it's not had any revisions on the model which may effect performance ??
> So long as the performance data you are looking for is there (and trustworthy) - when it was published matters not I think


well i havent seen mamy new ek rads, updated alphacool rads in those tests. That is why it is a problem. Im using lepa 70 fans. Running them on 7v with rpm of 1200. Damn good fans. Can feel some się being pushed over my fat 60mm rad. Gts nemesis i think have higher fpi than my thermochill so they will do the work very well.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> well i havent seen mamy new ek rads, updated alphacool rads in those tests. That is why it is a problem. Im using lepa 70 fans. Running them on 7v with rpm of 1200. Damn good fans. Can feel some się being pushed over my fat 60mm rad. Gts nemesis i think have higher fpi than my thermochill so they will do the work very well.


The X-Flow Alphacool rads are definitely an obvious omission.
We were to recieva a package with some and the new range of pump tops, reservoirs and fittings.
BUT to date no shipping notification has been recieved









Overall I think we have covered all the usual suspects and then some










Spoiler: The contenders



Alphacool Monsta 360 Radiator
Alphacool ST30 360 Radiator
Alphacool UT60 360 Radiator
Alphacool XT45 360 Radiator
AquaComputer Airplex Radical Copper 360 Radiator
AquaComputer AMS 360 Radiator
Coolgate CG 360 Radiator
Coolgate G2 360 Radiator
EK PE 360 Radiator
EK SE 360 Radiator
EK XTX 360 Radiator
EK XE 360 Radiator
Hardware Labs Alpha Extreme III 360 Radiator
Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX 360 Radiator
Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 Radiator
Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 360 Radiator
Hardware Labs SR-1 360 Radiator
Hardware Labs SR2 360 Radiator
Koolance HX-360XC 360 Radiator
Koolance HX-CU1020V
Magicool G2 Slim 360 Radiator
Mayhem's Havoc 360 Radiator
Phobya G-Changer HPC 360 Radiator
Phobya G-Changer V2 Full Copper 360 Radiator
Watercool HTSF2 3×120 LT 360 Radiator
XSPC EX 360 Radiator
XSPC RX v2 360 Radiator
XSPC RX v3 360 Radiator

Not included in this 360 round up just yet (we will update soon), but as independent reviews:

Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 X-Flow Radiator
XSPC AX360 Radiator
Bitspower Leviathan Slim 360 Radiator
Swiftech MCR320-XP Radiator
Swiftech MCR320-QPK Radiator

In addition we have also reviewed the following radiators which are different sizes and hence not incorporated in this 360 only round up:

EK XE 240 Radiator
Hardware Labs SR2 240 Radiator

EK CE 140 Radiator
Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 140 Radiator
Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 140 Radiator
Hardware Labs SR2 140 Radiator
Phobya G-Changer 140 Radiator

Alphacool ST30 280 Radiator
Alphacool UT60 280 Radiator Review
Alphacool Monsta 280 Radiator
EK CE 280 Radiator
Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 280 Radiator
Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 280 X-Flow Radiator
Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 280 Radiator
Hardware Labs SR2 Radiator
XSPC AX 280 Radiator

EK CE 420 Radiator
Hardware Labs SR2 420 Radiator


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i really really like the way this flows !!!!!!!
> please tell me you are at least keeping your tx10 !!!


High probability it might go. For now, shes going into storage.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I guess you can count me in. Basically just finished up my system.


that's EKs ZMT tubing I take it? How are you liking it so far? Just curious as I may use it my fiance's rig.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> that's EKs ZMT tubing I take it? How are you liking it so far? Just curious as I may use it my fiance's rig.


It is the ZMT tubing. It's very nice. Very hard to kink, looks great, and isn't too hard to bend it a lityle roughly. This is the first time I've dealt with custom liquid cooling, but it is far superior to any AIO's tubing as you'd expect. It's easy to cut but also scratch resistant. And it kind of seals the temperature of the liquid, in that when my system is cranking the tubing doesn't feel too warm.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Yes, ZMT is awesome. No leeching and definitely no kinks. I'd highly recommend using EK Fittings. It is extremely tight with BP or anything else.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The X-Flow Alphacool rads are definitely an obvious omission.
> We were to recieva a package with some and the new range of pump tops, reservoirs and fittings.
> BUT to date no shipping notification has been recieved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I think we have covered all the usual suspects and then some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The contenders
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool Monsta 360 Radiator
> Alphacool ST30 360 Radiator
> Alphacool UT60 360 Radiator
> Alphacool XT45 360 Radiator
> AquaComputer Airplex Radical Copper 360 Radiator
> AquaComputer AMS 360 Radiator
> Coolgate CG 360 Radiator
> Coolgate G2 360 Radiator
> EK PE 360 Radiator
> EK SE 360 Radiator
> EK XTX 360 Radiator
> EK XE 360 Radiator
> Hardware Labs Alpha Extreme III 360 Radiator
> Hardware Labs Black Ice GTX 360 Radiator
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 Radiator
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 360 Radiator
> Hardware Labs SR-1 360 Radiator
> Hardware Labs SR2 360 Radiator
> Koolance HX-360XC 360 Radiator
> Koolance HX-CU1020V
> Magicool G2 Slim 360 Radiator
> Mayhem's Havoc 360 Radiator
> Phobya G-Changer HPC 360 Radiator
> Phobya G-Changer V2 Full Copper 360 Radiator
> Watercool HTSF2 3×120 LT 360 Radiator
> XSPC EX 360 Radiator
> XSPC RX v2 360 Radiator
> XSPC RX v3 360 Radiator
> 
> Not included in this 360 round up just yet (we will update soon), but as independent reviews:
> 
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 X-Flow Radiator
> XSPC AX360 Radiator
> Bitspower Leviathan Slim 360 Radiator
> Swiftech MCR320-XP Radiator
> Swiftech MCR320-QPK Radiator
> 
> In addition we have also reviewed the following radiators which are different sizes and hence not incorporated in this 360 only round up:
> 
> EK XE 240 Radiator
> Hardware Labs SR2 240 Radiator
> 
> EK CE 140 Radiator
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 140 Radiator
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 140 Radiator
> Hardware Labs SR2 140 Radiator
> Phobya G-Changer 140 Radiator
> 
> Alphacool ST30 280 Radiator
> Alphacool UT60 280 Radiator Review
> Alphacool Monsta 280 Radiator
> EK CE 280 Radiator
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 280 Radiator
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 280 X-Flow Radiator
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 280 Radiator
> Hardware Labs SR2 Radiator
> XSPC AX 280 Radiator
> 
> EK CE 420 Radiator
> Hardware Labs SR2 420 Radiator


Thx for info


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Since this is the club that started it all, I want to extend the invitation to win a DOOM key! Picking the Winner on the 1st of June! Comment to win!

DOOM Giveaway Linky

(OH)

And ordered parts for the 780T, Should be next week I am going to get to the tubing and nitty gritty of the build.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

^Meh, DOOM it's not.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @gree@Benjiw
> 
> Random rant. Why the heck can't I upload pics from my phone?


If your Data plan reaches it's limit, you can't upload anything unless you tether your phone to a desktop device. I've done it and it works to sidestep Data limitations.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^Meh, DOOM it's not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your Data plan reaches it's limit, you can't upload anything unless you tether your phone to a desktop device. I've done it and it works to sidestep Data limitations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I disagree, it's very DOOM, it has the old skool sounds, it's basically Brutal DOOM with ace graphics. I'm getting the new one ASAP after seeing some playthroughs. The uploading images thing is an issue with the forum, loads of people have had issues lately.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^Meh, DOOM it's not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your Data plan reaches it's limit, you can't upload anything unless you tether your phone to a desktop device. I've done it and it works to sidestep Data limitations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I disagree, it's very DOOM, it has the old skool sounds, it's basically Brutal DOOM with ace graphics. I'm getting the new one ASAP after seeing some playthroughs. The uploading images thing is an issue with the forum, loads of people have had issues lately.
Click to expand...

You're entitled to think that Benj. But having played every version(til now) I don't agree with that. FAIP, D00M is and should always remain FPS only. It adds to the atmosphere of the experience of playing a chilling title in my experience. Multiplayer is great an all, but if I want something along MP gaming, I will play half a dozen titles including Crysis.

But, to each his own I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You're entitled to think that Benj. But having played every version(til now) I don't agree with that. FAIP, D00M is and should always remain FPS only. It adds to the atmosphere of the experience of playing a chilling title in my experience. Multiplayer is great an all, but if I want something along MP gaming, I will play half a dozen titles including Crysis.
> 
> But, to each his own I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


But it plays like a pure fps at least from everyone has told me when asked, the story seems solid, loads of throw backs etc, I've only watched story mode stuff not multiplayer.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok Folks

Planning the front mask for the BH4 Bullet build. I will go for a complete overhaul of the front of the case with a custom made mask. It will be in aluminum 0.9 mm thick and most likely powder coated or painted in black. Reservoir will be there as well as a 120 mm fan. I draw a first sketch with the help of my 4 years old daughter












reservoir liquid in blue.

so the whole fan grill in front will be cut out and replaced by this new mask


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice CaseLabs case. mATX?









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice CaseLabs case. mATX?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yep. very small. Loop will be really tight. here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1599975/the-little-big-bullitt-a-caselabs-bh4-bullet-build

and the caselabs thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1594644/something-small-and-wicked-this-way-comes


----------



## IT Diva

Seeing as how I've been having a go lately at the cheap Thermaltake cases, to see if they can look nicer than a turd with lipstick and a wig, . . . . and with some work, they can

I got a new P5, the one that's wall mountable if you don't want to use the included feet for desk mounting. (The wall mount itself is not included, although the case is strong enough to hang from a TV mount for sure)

As everyone knows, I'm pretty partial to white builds, and that I have an intense loathing of black, and especially flat/matt black.

Green just makes me puke, so I couldn't get the green one, and needed to do something so the black one wouldn't be so black . . .

Especially, since I'm using a Gigabyte mobo that's white with red accents and a white PSU.

Anyway . . . . a few pics of the mock-up using some bits from the scrap and miscellaneous bin:

Darlene


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Seeing as how I've been having a go lately at the cheap Thermaltake cases, to see if they can look nicer than a turd with lipstick and a wig, . . . . and with some work, they can
> 
> I got a new P5, the one that's wall mountable if you don't want to use the included feet for desk mounting. (The wall mount itself is not included, although the case is strong enough to hang from a TV mount for sure)
> 
> As everyone knows, I'm pretty partial to white builds, and that I have an intense loathing of black, and especially flat/matt black.
> 
> Green just makes me puke, so I couldn't get the green one, and needed to do something so the black one wouldn't be so black . . .
> 
> Especially, since I'm using a Gigabyte mobo that's white with red accents and a white PSU.
> 
> Anyway . . . . a few pics of the mock-up using some bits from the scrap and miscellaneous bin:
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks so reminiscent of mid-late 00's watercooled PC's


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Seeing as how I've been having a go lately at the cheap Thermaltake cases, to see if they can look nicer than a turd with lipstick and a wig, . . . . and with some work, they can
> 
> I got a new P5, the one that's wall mountable if you don't want to use the included feet for desk mounting. (The wall mount itself is not included, although the case is strong enough to hang from a TV mount for sure)
> 
> As everyone knows, I'm pretty partial to white builds, and that I have an intense loathing of black, and especially flat/matt black.
> 
> Green just makes me puke, so I couldn't get the green one, and needed to do something so the black one wouldn't be so black . . .
> 
> Especially, since I'm using a Gigabyte mobo that's white with red accents and a white PSU.
> 
> Anyway . . . . a few pics of the mock-up using some bits from the scrap and miscellaneous bin:
> 
> Darlene


Ummmm..... That's from your scrap/miscellaneous bin? How do 2 DDCs and that rad end up in a scrap bin? Great now I'm jealous of your scraps. Lol ? but not so much the case, sorry.
Lol.

Although as much as I hate ThermalFake, from what I've seen of your work I'm sure it'll come out looking fantastic. ?


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I guess you can count me in. Basically just finished up my system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]]
Click to expand...

Now that is some serious shoe horning going on there well done!
would have been nice to have a window maybe at the top so you can see the hardware inside.


----------



## eucalyptus

Guys, I have to sort a few question out









My new water cooling build will be using Phobya ZuperZero crystal blue
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/wasserzusaetze/fertiggemisch/17738/phobya-zuperzero-uv-crystal-blue-1000ml

My question is, can I use to together with PETG tubing??? JayZtwocents mentions that you can not use Glykol together with PETG tubing.

And Phobya includes "Ethandiol 1,2 %" - which I googled, and it seems to be some sort of glykol?

My other question, what could happend if I use this and add a few drops of Mayhem dye to it? (Mayhem UV yellow/green)


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Guys, I have to sort a few question out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new water cooling build will be using Phobya ZuperZero crystal blue
> http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/wasserzusaetze/fertiggemisch/17738/phobya-zuperzero-uv-crystal-blue-1000ml
> 
> My question is, can I use to together with PETG tubing??? JayZtwocents mentions that you can not use Glykol together with PETG tubing.
> 
> And Phobya includes "Ethandiol 1,2 %" - which I googled, and it seems to be some sort of glykol?
> 
> My other question, what could happend if I use this and add a few drops of Mayhem dye to it? (Mayhem UV yellow/green)


mixing coolant with dye from other company is not a good idea. Bad things can happen. I would justgo for destilled water and dye. How tuning will react to phobya coolant? Unknown for me. But it will be ok with destilled water.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

1 more day till I leave for Taiwan......


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> But it plays like a pure fps at least from everyone has told me when asked, the story seems solid, loads of throw backs etc, I've only watched story mode stuff not multiplayer.


Doom's marketing campaign has either been a terrible disaster for enticing the PC players to get on board with the console-ran trailers and the beta multiplayer or an excellent sucker-punch that convinced some people at the last second to give it a go. I wasn't sold on the game and almost completely ignored it until that nvidia Doom running on Vulkan video came out where it was clearly played on a PC.

I'm playing through the campaign at ultra-violent difficulty on a GTX970 with every on ultra graphics and am enjoying it a lot. Its fast, looks great at the speed it runs and I think is a blast to play







.

Really glad I got it. Brutal Doom is fun too but this one adds a lot of verticality to the fights with monsters jumping around and elevated platforms. I've been treating each section as a small arena that I need to figure out if I want to survive







.

On a water-cooling related note: my chinese universal GPU water block arrived for the test PC I'm working on







.


----------



## snef

some final pics of Tenebrae: The Division

cut the motherboard tray to fit a E-ATX (Rampage V extreme) and paint the both side panel

hope its enough for some to call it a *MOD*

















and finally final pics


----------



## Bogga




----------



## battleaxe

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics of Tenebrae: The Division
> 
> cut the motherboard tray to fit a E-ATX (Rampage V extreme) and paint the both side panel
> 
> hope its enough for some to call it a *MOD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and finally final pics






I love the orange. Not a huge fan of the graphics, but no matter... still love that orange. Very nice.


----------



## nycgtr

Love your builds snef , but your loops look similar in a few builds. Give me some more inspiration man!


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Very sweet!

-Jason


----------



## snef

Thanks ,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Love your builds snef , but your loops look similar in a few builds. Give me some more inspiration man!


yes I know but I like it like that, changing for just changing? its clean like that , no need for more complicated loop just to be diferent









when its possible to have different and keep it short and clean, I do it









ex:











or


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics of Tenebrae: The Division
> 
> cut the motherboard tray to fit a E-ATX (Rampage V extreme) and paint the both side panel
> 
> hope its enough for some to call it a *MOD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and finally final pics


What case is this? Woah


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks ,
> yes I know but I like it like that, changing for just changing? its clean like that , no need for more complicated loop just to be diferent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when its possible to have different and keep it short and clean, I do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ex:


----------



## nycgtr

Now that devils eye is FING HOT!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> What case is this? Woah


Pandora Bitfenix. Use Spoilers Please.

TCO


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics of Tenebrae: The Division
> 
> cut the motherboard tray to fit a E-ATX (Rampage V extreme) and paint the both side panel
> 
> hope its enough for some to call it a *MOD*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and finally final pics


Amazing work as always Snef! Congratulations


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks ,
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Love your builds snef , but your loops look similar in a few builds. Give me some more inspiration man!
> 
> 
> 
> yes I know but I like it like that, changing for just changing? its clean like that , no need for more complicated loop just to be diferent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when its possible to have different and keep it short and clean, I do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ex:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Imo, the loops are all different, and individual, in these builds.
Some with straight hard tubing sections, some with bends.

I like the "industrial" look of straight tubing sections and angled fittings, such as in The Division build, but yet, the clean bends in Tropical Voodoo are also very pleasing to the eye.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some final pics of Tenebrae: The Division
> 
> cut the motherboard tray to fit a E-ATX (Rampage V extreme) and paint the both side panel
> 
> hope its enough for some to call it a *MOD*


Holy hell snef! That is one smexy looking build. And I do think taking a Dremel to the case the way you did and all the painting is more than enough to consider it a mod. You changed the layout to accommodate a motherboard that wouldn't have fit otherwise and the painted it a different color.

All in all that is a very drool worthy build! I'm jealous if that means anything. ?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*


Seconded!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Seconded!


Third.

Always enjoy seeing snef's builds. They are like art work.


----------



## snef

Thanks a lot , very appreciate


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks ,
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Love your builds snef , but your loops look similar in a few builds. Give me some more inspiration man!
> 
> 
> 
> yes I know but I like it like that, changing for just changing? its clean like that , no need for more complicated loop just to be diferent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when its possible to have different and keep it short and clean, I do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ex:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
Click to expand...

Wow that tropical voodoo build is just incredible! I've been staring at that pic for the last ten minutes and I love everything about it, especially the fluid color, and the cables are perfect


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks ,
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Love your builds snef , but your loops look similar in a few builds. Give me some more inspiration man!
> 
> 
> 
> yes I know but I like it like that, changing for just changing? its clean like that , no need for more complicated loop just to be diferent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when its possible to have different and keep it short and clean, I do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ex:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wow that tropical voodoo build is just incredible! I've been staring at that pic for the last ten minutes and I love everything about it, especially the fluid color, and the cables are perfect
Click to expand...

Out of all Snef's builds, the Habs build still takes the cake for me.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Wow that tropical voodoo build is just incredible! I've been staring at that pic for the last ten minutes and I love everything about it, especially the fluid color, and the cables are perfect


I very much agree. I really like the color of the fluid. I've been trying to mix a color similar to what he has for his fittings but I can't seem to get it quite right.

@snef what dye mixtures did you use to get the color to turn out like that? Its amazing. Its like I'm staring at the waters off Cocos island off Costa Rica last time I went scuba diving and wandered into the island for break. I'm thinking you probably have the secret I'm looking for. Lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Imo, the loops are all different, and individual, in these builds.
> Some with straight hard tubing sections, some with bends.
> 
> I like the "industrial" look of straight tubing sections and angled fittings, such as in The Division build, but yet, the clean bends in Tropical Voodoo are also very pleasing to the eye.


I appreciate the feedback! I am sure you know that The Division was modeled after Snef's Bloody Angel









TCO


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Out of all Snef's builds, the Habs build still takes the cake for me.


Ranger fan here. Ughh

Still badarse!!!

-Jason


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Out of all Snef's builds, the Habs build still takes the cake for me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks, the kid still love it a lot. I see him every month now, just love the kid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> @snef what dye mixtures did you use to get the color to turn out like that? Its amazing. Its like I'm staring at the waters off Cocos island off Costa Rica last time I went scuba diving and wandered into the island for break. I'm thinking you probably have the secret I'm looking for. Lol


loll, mayhems dye, I used emerald green and ocean blue, 2 drop of ocean bleu for one drop of emerald green
for 1 liter, I used 20 blue for 10 green if I remember correctly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crosshatch3D*
> 
> Ranger fan here. Ughh
> 
> Still badarse!!!
> 
> -Jason


no one is perfect hahaha
















Thanks


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I appreciate the feedback! I am sure you know that The Division was modeled after Snef's Bloody Angel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Wrong Division, bro.


----------



## wermad

Anyone know how the nemesis L rads perform (vs gts or gtx)?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crosshatch3D*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Out of all Snef's builds, the Habs build still takes the cake for me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ranger fan here. Ughh
> 
> Still badarse!!!
> 
> -Jason
Click to expand...

Well I'm a Pens fan so you can imagine the turmoil I'm in right now...


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Thanks, the kid still love it a lot. I see him every month now, just love the kid
> loll, mayhems dye, I used emerald green and ocean blue, 2 drop of ocean bleu for one drop of emerald green
> for 1 liter, I used 20 blue for 10 green if I remember correctly
> no one is perfect hahaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I am sorry Snef, but I have those two bottles laying around, and I will copy your recipe for my next build





































And if your builds wouldn't be the best, your cat is the coolest cat I ever seen







Best avatar on the internet! hahaha

I actually think, you may be the best computer modder in the world? Couldn't that be true?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know how the nemesis L rads perform (vs gts or gtx)?


I haven't used them. But I had a look at them last year, GTX versions are some of the best things you can buy. But the new EKWB XE series may also be the number one today. All depends on where you live. In Europe you can't your hands on any Hardware Labs radiators at all, without importing them from the US for 150 bucks shipping.


----------



## dmfree88

This question has likely been asked before but what would be more cooling efficient, something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9F93GB8004

where you have 3 of them lined up side by side in series (which would obviously require a larger more powerful pump to go through all 3)

or would it be more cooling efficient to use a single large radiator (of comparable size to having 3 of the above)?

I think it would be interesting to make a big case (possibly a cube) with 3-4 radiators in the front hopefully visible with a bunch of colored fans. Would look crazy to have 9 or even 12 40mm fans maybe with some lights or something, possibly setup some kind of light-show of sorts with alternating colors. Likely not cost effective nor noise effective but wouldn't it be cooling effective to travel through extra radiators instead of through one? How much of a difference in pump power requirements would it be to do something like this? I am not exactly sure how water travels through a radiator specifically so I am not sure how beneficial this could be if it all. Any information is appreciated, thanks







.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> This question has likely been asked before but what would be more cooling efficient, something like this:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9F93GB8004
> 
> where you have 3 of them lined up side by side in series (which would obviously require a larger more powerful pump to go through all 3)
> 
> or would it be more cooling efficient to use a single large radiator (of comparable size to having 3 of the above)?
> 
> I think it would be interesting to make a big case (possibly a cube) with 3-4 radiators in the front hopefully visible with a bunch of colored fans. Would look crazy to have 9 or even 12 40mm fans maybe with some lights or something, possibly setup some kind of light-show of sorts with alternating colors. Likely not cost effective nor noise effective but wouldn't it be cooling effective to travel through extra radiators instead of through one? How much of a difference in pump power requirements would it be to do something like this? I am not exactly sure how water travels through a radiator specifically so I am not sure how beneficial this could be if it all. Any information is appreciated, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I'd take a triple 120 over 3 of those any day. There are basically no watercooling optimized 40mm fans.
Then there's the loss of cooling area that the 40mm have because of the extra bezels. Not to mention the limited mounting because of the barb fittings.

For a light show up front you could just install some LED lighting separate from the fans.


----------



## dmfree88

That is not as cool as 9 fans in a spinning lightshow though, just saying







. Hypothetically lets say their is a 40mm fan optimized for such. Or maybe I find slightly bigger at 80mm or something and find a case that fits 3 or at least 2. Hypothetically disregarding cost and noise would it have equal or better cooling capability to multiply rads vs wider single rad (assuming the fans are the same quality and single rad is equal size to multiple)?

If it would be better overall for cooling wouldn't using slightly worse fans (assuming I find at least some decent ones) sort of even it out so I could still do it for the looks?

I likely will not be able to afford something like this anytime soon I am just thinking of something that would be different and cool to look at to plan for the future. I like fans with lights. Thinking of finding a way to control the lights to do something interesting. Possibly even make them light up to the beat of music/sound.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I haven't used them. But I had a look at them last year, GTX versions are some of the best things you can buy. But the new EKWB XE series may also be the number one today. All depends on where you live. In Europe you can't your hands on any Hardware Labs radiators at all, without importing them from the US for 150 bucks shipping.


Yes u can get them in europe









http://www.highflow.nl/?subcats=Y&pcode_from_q=Y&pshort=Y&pfull=Y&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=black+ice&dispatch=products.search


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> That is not as cool as 9 fans in a spinning lightshow though, just saying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Hypothetically lets say their is a 40mm fan optimized for such. Or maybe I find slightly bigger at 80mm or something and find a case that fits 3 or at least 2. Hypothetically disregarding cost and noise would it have equal or better cooling capability to multiply rads vs wider single rad (assuming the fans are the same quality and single rad is equal size to multiple)?
> 
> If it would be better overall for cooling wouldn't using slightly worse fans (assuming I find at least some decent ones) sort of even it out so I could still do it for the looks?
> 
> I likely will not be able to afford something like this anytime soon I am just thinking of something that would be different and cool to look at to plan for the future. I like fans with lights. Thinking of finding a way to control the lights to do something interesting. Possibly even make them light up to the beat of music/sound.


The only advance to multiple small rads is waterflow disruption. It is the only advantage and not something that would make any impact at all.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Yes u can get them in europe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/?subcats=Y&pcode_from_q=Y&pshort=Y&pfull=Y&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=black+ice&dispatch=products.search


I see, but they weren't available last summer


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well I'm a Pens fan so you can imagine the turmoil I'm in right now...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well I'm a Pens fan so you can imagine the turmoil I'm in right now...


Ha, you are not kidding man. That's the toying of hearts in the playoffs







.

-Jason


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Imo, the loops are all different, and individual, in these builds.
> Some with straight hard tubing sections, some with bends.
> 
> I like the "industrial" look of straight tubing sections and angled fittings, such as in The Division build, but yet, the clean bends in Tropical Voodoo are also very pleasing to the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the feedback! I am sure you know that The Division was modeled after Snef's Bloody Angel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Well, your "The Division" build is certainly in a league of its own, far beyond anything I'll ever be able to cobble together!
I didn't know it was modelled after Snef's "Bloody Angel" build.
But it is certainly has its own individual style. As I mentioned, I like the look with the straight sections of hard tubing, using fittings for the angles needed. And all those reservoirs!

The outdoor daytime photos in the build log really do it justice.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I haven't used them. But I had a look at them last year, GTX versions are some of the best things you can buy. But the new EKWB XE series may also be the number one today. All depends on where you live. In Europe you can't your hands on any Hardware Labs radiators at all, without importing them from the US for 150 bucks shipping.


Thanks! I'm siding now the Magicool for the slims ones and maybe Coolgate for the thicker ones. The GTX are very pricey, and I don't wanna blow a ton on my loop since the majority of my monies is going towards my gpu setup.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

One down, one to go !!


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> One down, one to go !!


Cool







Looks like you've done this before though


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*
> 
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you've done this before though


I can safely say ive balanced the force, 2 light ones 2 dark ones. Although the dark side was a pain in the arse !


----------



## Prophet4NO1

This popped up in my recommended feed today. Water cooler Pi2.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> This popped up in my recommended feed today. Water cooler Pi2.


That is so unnecessary and so awesome!


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That is so unnecessary and so awesome!


My thoughts exactly. lol


----------



## KaffieneKing

I want that.... Should have used a single 80mm though, would be much quieter


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh, I would use a single 120 and pipe it with G1/4 fittings. Would be even quieter.









~Ceadder


----------



## DR4G00N

Has anyone used this thing before?


Finding a FC block for my Gigabyte 780 Ti WF3 is proving difficult so I thought I'd use this instead.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> One down, one to go !!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oooo, that turning out nice.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That is so unnecessary and so awesome!


You know what, I been toying with a idea of doing that to a Pi for giggles.

Just currently looking for a good starter kit for the Pi 3. Reading about them has me wanting one bad considering what you can make them do.

Plus, I want some zeros to use as auto water controllers for my garden.


----------



## VSG

New PPCs discount codes:
Quote:


> It's easy to think of Memorial Day as simply... an extra day off work... a three-day weekend. But, this day is meant to honor the men and women of the Armed Forces who gave their lives in the service of their country. Please do not forget our lost comrades in arms and the families of these brave souls that are left behind.
> 
> We offer a couple of coupons to use for this Holiday Weekend when you can shop in-between your barbecue and family gatherings:
> 
> Spend $50 get 6% off Code: "MEMDAY16-6"
> Spend $250 get 8% off Code: "MEMDAY16-8"
> Spend $500 get 10% off Code: "MEMDAY16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than chassis, processors, motherboards, GTX1080 product and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from May 25th through May 31st 2016. One coupon per order please.)


The email also mentioned that the EK FC GTX 1080 blocks will be available to ship on May 26th itself, not bad


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Has anyone used this thing before?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finding a FC block for my Gigabyte 780 Ti WF3 is proving difficult so I thought I'd use this instead.


Alphacool seems to have one.

http://www.alphacool.com/shop/gpu-cooler/nvidia-fullsize/17671/alphacool-nexxxos-gpx-nvidia-geforce-gtx-780-m02-mit-backplate-schwarz


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Alphacool seems to have one.
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/shop/gpu-cooler/nvidia-fullsize/17671/alphacool-nexxxos-gpx-nvidia-geforce-gtx-780-m02-mit-backplate-schwarz


I've seen that but it's too expensive, I might as well wait and find a proper fc block for that price. Plus it doesn't have active vrm cooling like the heatkiller which is why I asked about it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New PPCs discount codes:
> The email also mentioned that the EK FC GTX 1080 blocks will be available to ship on May 26th itself, not bad


Was going to post this here because I recall Wermad was on the verge of placing an order. Was waiting for this too and just got in my email. Nice VSG.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Wrong Division, bro.










Wow, I didn't even realize.....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Well, your "The Division" build is certainly in a league of its own, far beyond anything I'll ever be able to cobble together!
> I didn't know it was modelled after Snef's "Bloody Angel" build.
> But it is certainly has its own individual style. As I mentioned, I like the look with the straight sections of hard tubing, using fittings for the angles needed. And all those reservoirs!
> 
> The outdoor daytime photos in the build log really do it justice.










Appreciate that (For the 2nd time around







)

TCO


----------



## Deedaz

I don't think I posted pics of my rig in this thread yet so here it is


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I don't think I posted pics of my rig in this thread yet so here it is
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The Green on that Sleeving is epic.

TCO


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Has anyone owned the asus formula viii? All the previous boards were amazing but I was just about to pick one up and I noticed that almost every single review was like one star and horrible. Like DOAs out the wazoo, complete crashes q code 00 and 99, soon after purchase or teething memory issues. I've had good luck with the z170 deluxe, extreme and x99 Deluxe but maybe I got lucky because I noticed they had horrible reviews too. Has Asus really fallen that far?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Has anyone owned the asus formula viii? All the previous boards were amazing but I was just about to pick one up and I noticed that almost every single review was like one star and horrible. Like DOAs out the wazoo, complete crashes q code 00 and 99, soon after purchase or teething memory issues. I've had good luck with the z170 deluxe, extreme and x99 Deluxe but maybe I got lucky because *I noticed they had horrible reviews too. Has Asus really fallen that far*?


Hmmm









I would take reviews with a grain of salt. I have had about as many Asus Boards as you have and gave my Formula VII to my Big brother. That board ran like a champ.

The RVE I use in my rig was a challenge to get used to for the X99 Platform, but I think some people don't realize you will have to spend some time in the BIOS and or playing around with your system in order for it to run right.

I mean, if a board is DOA, then It's DOA, but I wouldn't think lighting would strike twice right?

TCO


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Has anyone owned the asus formula viii? All the previous boards were amazing but I was just about to pick one up and I noticed that almost every single review was like one star and horrible. Like DOAs out the wazoo, complete crashes q code 00 and 99, soon after purchase or teething memory issues. I've had good luck with the z170 deluxe, extreme and x99 Deluxe but maybe I got lucky because I noticed they had horrible reviews too. Has Asus really fallen that far?


The more "pimp RoG l33t" a mobo is the more noobs will buy it and imo feel that increases the RMA percentage. Like it was said, take user reviews with a grain of salt, and search more valid reviews.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Has anyone owned the asus formula viii? All the previous boards were amazing but I was just about to pick one up and I noticed that almost every single review was like one star and horrible. Like DOAs out the wazoo, complete crashes q code 00 and 99, soon after purchase or teething memory issues. I've had good luck with the z170 deluxe, extreme and x99 Deluxe but maybe I got lucky because I noticed they had horrible reviews too. Has Asus really fallen that far?


It's just another mobo really - nothing overly special about it to cause odd-ball RMA issues and the like.

Mine works fine out of the box.

The memory issue you pertain to is not limited to the Formula but more so the use of higher speed overclocked memory on the Z170 platform.

In my case I am using 2 different sets of 16GB ram for a total of 32GB - Ideally you want to use matched sets. I had to tweak the timings a little to get the memory to play nicely at overclocked settings but with only 2 sticks installed it worked without tweaking. If you follow the memory overclocking threads etc you will see this is common across all Z170 and even X99 boards.

Don't expect that plugging in 4 sticks @ 3600MHz will work out of the box - It may but more likely it will require some tweaking as don't forget that anything above 2133MHz for these platforms is effectively overclocked memory (CPU plays a large part in memory stability too)....









My rig below - 6700K CPU @ 4.8GHz [Cache @ 4.6GHz] Mem Cas 14 @ 3100MHz - Fully stable X264/Prime95 - Small FFT & Blend/Realbench/Stressapptest


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, I didn't even realize.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate that (For the 2nd time around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> TCO


It is OK, we still like The Conceited One (why didn't think of that earlier?)


----------



## Bogga

I'm so angry... why did I join this forum? You guys are ruining me... because of you I have plans for a dual loop with hard tubing.

And I still havent built my first plan with one loop and soft tubing


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I'm so angry... why did I join this forum? You guys are ruining me... because of you I have plans for a dual loop with hard tubing.
> 
> And I still havent built my first plan with one loop and soft tubing


and stick to that plan







soft tuning is easier to work with and maintain









On side topic. Cant wait for the end of the year, to see am4 mobos and i hope some will have built in water blocks for vrms.


----------



## orvils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I'm so angry... why did I join this forum? You guys are ruining me... because of you I have plans for a dual loop with hard tubing.
> 
> And I still havent built my first plan with one loop and soft tubing


I know how you feel.

I had nice little air cooled ITX system. And it was fine, until I joined here.
After that I bought a Parvum case and watercooled my stuff.
And now I am upgrading it to hard tubing, which actually is not even needed. It was doing fine with soft tubing. It is like an addiction.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> I know how you feel.
> 
> I had nice little air cooled ITX system. And it was fine, until I joined here.
> After that I bought a Parvum case and watercooled my stuff.
> And now I am upgrading it to hard tubing, which actually is not even needed. It was doing fine with soft tubing. It is like an addiction.


That's why we are called enthusiast right


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I'm so angry... why did I join this forum? You guys are ruining me... because of you I have plans for a dual loop with hard tubing.
> 
> And I still havent built my first plan with one loop and soft tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know how you feel.
> 
> I had nice little air cooled ITX system. And it was fine, until I joined here.
> After that I bought a Parvum case and watercooled my stuff.
> And now I am upgrading it to hard tubing, which actually is not even needed. It was doing fine with soft tubing. *It is like an addiction.*
Click to expand...

Fixed that for you.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Fixed that for you.


I <3 you guys
Edit: I'm starting to feel like this is more of a support group than a club haha. My name is oldchicken and I'm addicted to watercooling... "Hi oldchicken"


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> and stick to that plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> soft tuning is easier to work with and maintain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On side topic. Cant wait for the end of the year, to see am4 mobos and i hope some will have built in water blocks for vrms.


Yeah.... I'm gonna start with the soft tube first. But I'm gonna do it so it will be easy to switch to dual loop and hard tubing








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> I know how you feel.
> 
> I had nice little air cooled ITX system. And it was fine, until I joined here.
> After that I bought a Parvum case and watercooled my stuff.
> And now I am upgrading it to hard tubing, which actually is not even needed. It was doing fine with soft tubing. It is like an addiction.


Yeah, nowadays when I see people buying nice stuff but have plans for aircooling I think "pffft mainstream"








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> That's why we are called enthusiast right


Guess so


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> It is OK, we still like The Conceited One (why didn't think of that earlier?)












Well I guess I have been exposed....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I <3 you guys
> Edit: I'm starting to feel like this is more of a support group than a club haha. My name is oldchicken and I'm addicted to watercooling... "Hi oldchicken"


Hello Old Chicken, I am The Cautious One.

Welcome. Please Share your experience with the group.

TCO


----------



## Bogga

Btw... sorry for bringing up a lot of off topic talk. If I have questions, is it ok to take it here or should I start a thread for it?


----------



## orbitalwalsh

The last leg to go









just gutted I didnt pick up the SLi bridge for 2 slots when Alphacool had them in stock


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Btw... sorry for bringing up a lot of off topic talk. If I have questions, is it ok to take it here or should I start a thread for it?


What type of question?

TCO


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What type of question?
> 
> TCO


Question about plans, if I'm going with the right stuff... if anything needs to be changed and so on


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What type of question?
> 
> TCO


Where do babies come from?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Question about plans, if I'm going with the right stuff... if anything needs to be changed and so on


Ask Away Sir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Where do babies come from?












I just know things about watercooling sir.

TCO


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What type of question?
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Where do babies come from?
Click to expand...

The reservoir via the pump.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Where do babies come from?


I could answer this but the way I do it would get me banned from here.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ask Away Sir.
> 
> TCO


Well, here we go...

I'm going to redo my entire build... plans are to keep the mobo, cpu, ram, psu, 360 rad and pump. The rest will be replaced...

I plan to integrate the pump (EK Xtop revo d5) with the reservoir, buy a bigger tube and replace the top so I can have inlet from the top. From what I can tell, I will need a plug, right? As long as I use the outlet where it's supposed to be (pump), then the inlet can be where ever... or?

Shopping list (does not include graphic cards or blocks for them, fans will be bought from a place here in Sweden. I've already got fittings and valve for drain)
http://imgur.com/BLXpnfs

My plans
http://imgur.com/9a8OCv2

With this I'm thinking that I can go dual loop with hard tubing later on since another reservoir-pump-combo can be put next to the first one

Am I making any sense?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Well, here we go...
> 
> I'm going to redo my entire build... plans are to keep the mobo, cpu, ram, psu, 360 rad and pump. The rest will be replaced...
> 
> *I plan to integrate the pump (EK Xtop revo d5) with the reservoir, buy a bigger tube and replace the top so I can have inlet from the top. From what I can tell, I will need a plug, right? As long as I use the outlet where it's supposed to be (pump), then the inlet can be where ever... or?*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Shopping list (does not include graphic cards or blocks for them, fans will be bought from a place here in Sweden. I've already got fittings and valve for drain)
> http://imgur.com/BLXpnfs
> 
> My plans
> http://imgur.com/9a8OCv2
> 
> With this I'm thinking that I can go dual loop with hard tubing later on since another reservoir-pump-combo can be put next to the first one
> 
> 
> 
> Am I making any sense?


This part is what is getting me thinking you could ask in the EK thread. I do not know much about that Pump/Res Combo.

The Diagram is logical for Loop order and whatnot. Having that pump, the inlet I believe is the middle of the circular part. The outlet would be the side of the circular part.



*EK PDF Manual On pump/top*

So you could mount it so that the res feeds the pumps below.

TCO


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This part is what is getting me thinking you could ask in the EK thread. I do not know much about that Pump/Res Combo.
> 
> The Diagram is logical for Loop order and whatnot. Having that pump, the inlet I believe is the middle of the circular part. The outlet would be the side of the circular part.
> 
> 
> 
> *EK PDF Manual On pump/top*
> 
> So you could mount it so that the res feeds the pumps below.
> 
> TCO


I asked over there and the pump is possible to integrate with the other ek-stuff which in the end would become one of these:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

But I didn't ask if it would be possible plug the "in" in the bottom of it. Water goes in from the top and out from the bottom where the pump will be located... in my world it would work just fine. But it never hurts to ask









Any thoughts on my other plans?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/plNZ15hxj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnwshX4gj

I was about to order one of the Singularity computers ethereal res mounts from Australia then found out e22 started stocking them in the UK, might get a Black one also.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/plNZ15hxj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pnwshX4gj
> 
> 
> 
> I was about to order one of the Singularity computers ethereal res mounts from Australia then found out e22 started stocking them in the UK, might get a Black one also.


I keep thinking about getting into designing PC parts but I'd need someone with CNC machines etc to make them for me and I'm a skint university student so would probably have to get a loan to start up.


----------



## MocoIMO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I was about to order one of the Singularity computers ethereal res mounts from Australia then found out e22 started stocking them in the UK, might get a Black one also.


Actually considering some for my rig. Do they make the res sit out much further than the stock ek/bitspower brackets?


----------



## jkuzic

Here is my build


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hello Old Chicken, I am The Cautious One.
> 
> Welcome. Please Share your experience with the group.
> 
> TCO


I've been using water for about 6 months now, it all started with an ek kit... I thought that would be it, "just a CPU loop" I told myself, "it won't hurt anyone." Now 6 months later on my 8th loop iteration, it has 5 rads, 3 blocks, 2 pumps, too many reservoirs and hundreds of dollars in fittings and tubing. I haven't played a PC game in weeks because I just can't stop planning/doing things to my loop(s). I'd say I need help... But I don't want it!

Water is love, water is life!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I was about to order one of the Singularity computers ethereal res mounts from Australia then found out e22 started stocking them in the UK, might get a Black one also.


oh my word... Those make me want to put my off-clear alphacool mounts in the trash where they belong. Definitely going to have to find those stateside!


----------



## prznar1

RGB fans, RGB fans... TT riing fans are good for radiators?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MocoIMO*
> 
> Actually considering some for my rig. Do they make the res sit out much further than the stock ek/bitspower brackets?


Not sure yet.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/plNZ15hxj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pnwshX4gj
> 
> 
> 
> I was about to order one of the Singularity computers ethereal res mounts from Australia then found out e22 started stocking them in the UK, might get a Black one also.


Been waiting on mine for 2 months now. E22 and icemodz both have them and mine still hasn't shipped.


----------



## khemist

I only ordered mine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Been waiting on mine for 2 months now. E22 and icemodz both have them and mine still hasn't shipped.


Have you contacted them?, i would.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/plNZ15hxj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pnwshX4gj
> 
> I was about to order one of the Singularity computers ethereal res mounts from Australia then found out e22 started stocking them in the UK, might get a Black one also.


That's gorgeous man. Beautiful.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jkuzic*
> 
> Here is my build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. Nicely done!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I only ordered mine
> Have you contacted them?, i would.


I ordered direct from Daniel and he's been super about it. He's got a lot going on and distribution of mass produced pieces is new for Singularity. I hope to have the piece soon but either way, they are so beautiful it will be worth the wait.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

On the way to computex...nightlanding in Dubai.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I keep thinking about getting into designing PC parts but I'd need someone with CNC machines etc to make them for me and I'm a skint university student so would probably have to get a loan to start up.


Sorry for the double post.

PM me,I has CNC.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jkuzic*
> 
> Here is my build
> -snip-


Nice work







. I like the use of the Antec P380, you don't see too many of them out in the wild and it looks great here







.

Edit: @jkuzic, you should definitely add that to the Official Antec Performance Owners thread as no one else appears to be listing a P380 there yet







.


----------



## axipher

So I was told to poke in here and look for some help, the names of *fast_fate* and *Darlene*. I'm working on a custom water block for my Sapphire Nitro 380X and this is what I have so far in AutoCAD. I'm working on getting the outer shape 3D printed right now to test fit the pad locations and the mounting holes.

This is my first time doing this and I have basic knowledge of this stuff (fluid and thermo dynamics) so all critisms are welcome.

Just the copper block with gasket



The plexi top with the gasket and other cutout areas somewhat visible:



Copper plate above the PCB with some of the taller components and water in the channel



Everything thrown together



First half of the block 3D printed, 7.5 hours and $3 later


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So I was told to poke in here and look for some help, the names of *fast_fate* and *Darlene*. I'm working on a custom water block for my Sapphire Nitro 380X and this is what I have so far in AutoCAD. I'm working on getting the outer shape 3D printed right now to test fit the pad locations and the mounting holes.
> 
> This is my first time doing this and I have basic knowledge of this stuff (fluid and thermo dynamics) so all critisms are welcome.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just the copper block with gasket
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi top with the gasket and other cutout areas somewhat visible:
> 
> 
> 
> Copper plate above the PCB with some of the taller components and water in the channel
> 
> 
> 
> Everything thrown together
> 
> 
> 
> First half of the block 3D printed, 7.5 hours and $3 later


@axipher

Welcome to the club









Cool Project - Never made any custom blocks myself, so not up my alley.
BUT
There a few who frequent here that have and I'm sure will chime in.

Build log for the project/build ?
If not
Keeps the updates coming in here as we all love watching custom projects like this progress.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So I was told to poke in here and look for some help, the names of *fast_fate* and *Darlene*. I'm working on a custom water block for my Sapphire Nitro 380X and this is what I have so far in AutoCAD. I'm working on getting the outer shape 3D printed right now to test fit the pad locations and the mounting holes.
> 
> This is my first time doing this and I have basic knowledge of this stuff (fluid and thermo dynamics) so all critisms are welcome.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just the copper block with gasket
> 
> 
> The plexi top with the gasket and other cutout areas somewhat visible:
> 
> 
> Copper plate above the PCB with some of the taller components and water in the channel
> 
> 
> Everything thrown together
> 
> 
> First half of the block 3D printed, 7.5 hours and $3 later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @axipher
> 
> Welcome to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool Project - Never made any custom blocks myself, so not up my alley.
> BUT
> There a few who frequent here that have and I'm sure will chime in.
> 
> Build log for the project/build ?
> If not
> Keeps the updates coming in here as we all love watching custom projects like this progress.
Click to expand...

Thanks @fast_fate, I don't have a build log yet but this will be going in my Project Maple Leaf. I just started work on this last Friday so it's very new. I've wanted to do something like this for a while so finally just doing it. I'll definitely put all my updates here though. I know @PCSargehas the same card and wants a copy of this block when I finish it.

Once I prototype a full one with 3D printing, I might start poking EK, Koolance, Alphacool, Bitspower and any other water block makers out there that I don't know of for some assistance in the final product.

List of things to add still are:

- more detailed G1/4 thread area

- screw holes to mount the copper to the acrylic block

- 8mm channel in the back to mount a LED strip in *and/or* 5mm LED holes

- optional G1/4 threaded hole opposite to the main ones to add in a G1/4 coolant temp sensor

- "Sapphire Nitro 380X" wording embossed/engraved on the edge of the block so it's visible when installed in a normal orientated motherboard.

- engraved logo/username/some design on the main face of the acrylic

What are some other things that people have wanted in water blocks?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

More in the 780T Build Log









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So I was told to poke in here and look for some help, the names of *fast_fate* and *Darlene*. I'm working on a custom water block for my Sapphire Nitro 380X and this is what I have so far in AutoCAD. I'm working on getting the outer shape 3D printed right now to test fit the pad locations and the mounting holes.
> 
> This is my first time doing this and I have basic knowledge of this stuff (fluid and thermo dynamics) so all critisms are welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just the copper block with gasket
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi top with the gasket and other cutout areas somewhat visible:
> 
> 
> 
> Copper plate above the PCB with some of the taller components and water in the channel
> 
> 
> 
> Everything thrown together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First half of the block 3D printed, 7.5 hours and $3 later


One mod update(of sorts) deserves another in kind.

















Please excuse the potato pics. Soon as I get the DSLR unpacked I will have some better ones. We're in the process of moving.









Am considering a plexi wrap of the back of the cards that covers the power connector side of these cards. There isn't much room at the end of the sinks so the Plexi has to cover it. Unfortunately it requires some finagling to properly fit both halves.









~Ceadder


----------



## axipher

Very nice


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Trying something New













TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well snagged this thanks to a prize drawing through the PC Expo (Thanks to the AMD vendors)
So a 390x to find a water block for will be in the works


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well snagged this thanks to a prize drawing through the PC Expo (Thanks to the AMD vendors)
> So a 390x to find a water block for will be in the works


Wow, I didn't think blower 390X's existed.. interesting to see a blower card with the fury x aesthetic.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well snagged this thanks to a prize drawing through the PC Expo (Thanks to the AMD vendors)
> So a 390x to find a water block for will be in the works


not sure if alphacool has one or could make one, shouldnt be to hard to hybrid cool if you want the shroud


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> not sure if alphacool has one or could make one, shouldnt be to hard to hybrid cool if you want the shroud


They don't have a reference model for the 390X, as they were never released to market, but I would't be surprised if a reference 290X block would fit.

Would indeed be a waste to just throw that rather good looking and rare shroud in a drawer somewhere.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> One mod update(of sorts) deserves another in kind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please excuse the potato pics. Soon as I get the DSLR unpacked I will have some better ones. We're in the process of moving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am considering a plexi wrap of the back of the cards that covers the power connector side of these cards. There isn't much room at the end of the sinks so the Plexi has to cover it. Unfortunately it requires some finagling to properly fit both halves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That looks pretty cool! It looks like you're using the EK Thermosphere universal waterblock but I'm not sure what the VRM/memory cooler is that you've added to the card.

Is that custom or based on the Alphacool Nexxxos heatsinks that were paired with the Nexxxos Core block?


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So I was told to poke in here and look for some help, the names of *fast_fate* and *Darlene*. I'm working on a custom water block for my Sapphire Nitro 380X and this is what I have so far in AutoCAD. I'm working on getting the outer shape 3D printed right now to test fit the pad locations and the mounting holes.
> 
> This is my first time doing this and I have basic knowledge of this stuff (fluid and thermo dynamics) so all critisms are welcome.
> 
> Just the copper block with gasket
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi top with the gasket and other cutout areas somewhat visible:
> 
> 
> 
> Copper plate above the PCB with some of the taller components and water in the channel
> 
> 
> 
> Everything thrown together
> 
> 
> 
> First half of the block 3D printed, 7.5 hours and $3 later


Nice, very nice









-Jason


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Wow, I didn't think blower 390X's existed.. interesting to see a blower card with the fury x aesthetic.


Looked more into the card and it's a straight from AMD card which surprised me as well but the AMD reps were awesome guys at the expo, plus they were letting us demo the Oculus Rift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> not sure if alphacool has one or could make one, shouldnt be to hard to hybrid cool if you want the shroud


From what digging I was doing last night it seems that EK makes a full cover block for this card as the PCB is the same as the 290x but this one has 8GB on board vs 4GB

I'll be cramming this card into the Lil Box of Overkill since I'm RMA'ing the 960 (fan blade decided to come off). Can say this expo was a lot of fun and excited for the new tech that's coming very soon


----------



## axipher

Here us the second half printed of the block prototype for test fitting,


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Trying something New
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Couldn't you go from port to port on the same side? then into the res?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pmehpchHj

Picked up a smaller 100 Bitspower res, three port White top and one of the old EK DDC v2 pump tops (brand new) probably going to use it in the BH7 and have it horizontal on the rad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> One mod update(of sorts) deserves another in kind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please excuse the potato pics. Soon as I get the DSLR unpacked I will have some better ones. We're in the process of moving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am considering a plexi wrap of the back of the cards that covers the power connector side of these cards. There isn't much room at the end of the sinks so the Plexi has to cover it. Unfortunately it requires some finagling to properly fit both halves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks pretty cool! It looks like you're using the EK Thermosphere universal waterblock but I'm not sure what the VRM/memory cooler is that you've added to the card.
> 
> Is that custom or based on the Alphacool Nexxxos heatsinks that were paired with the Nexxxos Core block?
Click to expand...

They are Swiftech 6950/6870 FC heatsinks. They had to be milled to accept Thermosphere bocks. Might've taken the previous gen GPU blocks from EK with some minor modding done to the GPU block mount and maybe some to the sink but the Thermosphere simply lays too flat for that,

Swiftech no longer makes these since 5**/6** series NVidia and 6*** series AMD. But after the mod I put the bug in EKs' ear for future versions.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Swiftech no longer makes these since 5**/6** series NVidia and 6*** series AMD. But after the mod I put the bug in EKs' ear for future versions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


swiftech made up to the 7xxx series. i didnt buy a pair of 290x because they said they werent going to support any further with uni blocks or the heatsinks. they did a 5xx series for nvidia but didnt do a 6xxx and i was bummed about that too.


----------



## axipher

Thanks to the wonderful Daz, I now have something else to add to the build:


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They are Swiftech 6950/6870 FC heatsinks. They had to be milled to accept Thermosphere bocks. Might've taken the previous gen GPU blocks from EK with some minor modding done to the GPU block mount and maybe some to the sink but the Thermosphere simply lays too flat for that,
> 
> Swiftech no longer makes these since 5**/6** series NVidia and 6*** series AMD. But after the mod I put the bug in EKs' ear for future versions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Cool







. I'd be keen to see how the heatsink + Thermosphere keeps the VRM/memory cool compared to a full cover block.


----------



## SteezyTN




----------



## prznar1

Very slick







nice setup. Me like this color combo. Black red and white.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Couldn't you go from port to port on the same side? then into the res?


Will Check it out again.









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Swiftech no longer makes these since 5**/6** series NVidia and 6*** series AMD. But after the mod I put the bug in EKs' ear for future versions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> swiftech made up to the 7xxx series. i didnt buy a pair of 290x because they said they werent going to support any further with uni blocks or the heatsinks. they did a 5xx series for nvidia but didnt do a 6xxx and i was bummed about that too.
Click to expand...

Yeah I realize that. I posted in general terms. But thank you for the clarification. Makes it easier to remember in the future when someone asks me the same question.









Hopefully EK can pick up where Swiftech bailed on that project. I really like the product, just had no interest in purchasing Swiftech GPU only blocks due to my desire to stick with one block manufacturer.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They are Swiftech 6950/6870 FC heatsinks. They had to be milled to accept Thermosphere bocks. Might've taken the previous gen GPU blocks from EK with some minor modding done to the GPU block mount and maybe some to the sink but the Thermosphere simply lays too flat for that,
> 
> Swiftech no longer makes these since 5**/6** series NVidia and 6*** series AMD. But after the mod I put the bug in EKs' ear for future versions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'd be keen to see how the heatsink + Thermosphere keeps the VRM/memory cool compared to a full cover block.
Click to expand...

I could try running a test with and without the VRM fan on the cards. But I am concentrating on my Case now that this part of the project is essentially wrapped up. Not sure when I will be able to post the info, but soon as I have it, you guys will have it directly after that.









~Ceadder


----------



## DeathStroke50

Heres my first attempt at an actual loop, be gentle


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeathStroke50*
> 
> Heres my first attempt at an actual loop, be gentle
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


a lot better than my first attempt for sure and of many around here for that matter I dare say. Good job and welcome to the club.


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeathStroke50*
> 
> Heres my first attempt at an actual loop, be gentle


Nice I see you've painted the topcover of the ram red as I suggested


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeathStroke50*
> 
> Heres my first attempt at an actual loop, be gentle


Despite what /g/ has said recently this evening, I do like your loop and build. My only question for you is... Why red liquid if you're going to use white tubing, friend.

- "Break," with the tiny little watercooled NCase.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeathStroke50*
> 
> Heres my first attempt at an actual loop, be gentle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Despite what /g/ has said recently this evening, I do like your loop and build. My only question for you is... Why red liquid if you're going to use white tubing, friend.
> 
> - "Break," with the tiny little watercooled NCase.
Click to expand...

Why use dye at all?









~Ceadder


----------



## DeathStroke50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Despite what /g/ has said recently this evening, I do like your loop and build. My only question for you is... Why red liquid if you're going to use white tubing, friend.
> 
> - "Break," with the tiny little watercooled NCase.


Simply because it will add red as it sits in the res, giving it more contrast.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why use dye at all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


See above. The liquid came pre-dyed also, called pastel red by primochill.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Nice I see you've painted the topcover of the ram red as I suggested


Not the top cover, did something totally different with it.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeathStroke50*
> 
> Simply because it will add red as it sits in the res, giving it more contrast.
> See above. The liquid came pre-dyed also, called pastel red by primochill.


My reason for being against it is that dyes can gunk up water blocks. You'd likely be better off just painting the reservoir.


----------



## alltheGHz

Trying to get bubbles out of my res/pump. Should I be tilting the case while it is turned on?


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Trying to get bubbles out of my res/pump. Should I be tilting the case while it is turned on?


Sometimes that helps. I hate getting air bubbles out. One of the more annoying tasks of custom water. Totally sucks. I have recently started making two inlets or one inlet, one outlet of sorts. I use one to fill and the other left open that is a high point. Both high points actually, often with case set on its side, and allows me to fill while sealed to the plunge on one end, then forces the air out the other end. Works pretty well. But I have no idea what I'm doing. Some of these guys around here make it look easy and don't seem to mind. Personally, it annoys me pretty good to get the air out.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeathStroke50*
> 
> Simply because it will add red as it sits in the res, giving it more contrast.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> See above. The liquid came pre-dyed also, called pastel red by primochill.
> Not the top cover, did something totally different with it.


Nice build







.

I think the others are also suggesting an alternative to save you the headache that red dyes can give owners when its been run for a while in a loop. Some people end up starting over with all new components as the parts were stained red and fresh distilled water goes pink even after rigorous cleaning







.

I recall seeing a video on youtube where OC3D was looking at Monsoon reservoirs that were tinted so that you could run distilled water and still have your coloured parts. That could be an alternative option for the res







.

Like the backplate for the GPU with Hard Lined written on it







!

Can't wait to eventually get a custom loop of my own up and running.


----------



## KG101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Trying to get bubbles out of my res/pump. Should I be tilting the case while it is turned on?


After you tilt it - forward/backward if rad is mounted flat top or bottom & Sideways PLUS fwd/bkwd if rad is mounted vertically. ... It shouldn't take that many times really maybe ten max go really slow when you hear chugging go even slower.
Top off your res after each tilt if levels drop.

The ONLY thing I found worked after the main bubbles were out was to remove my resevoirs foam, so if you have foam or a anti-cyclone addition remove it a few days while alternating taking the cap or top g1/4 port screw off or at least only one turn tightened - to allow air to leave ..

Once bubbels are clear then replace it - I don't have a single bubble that has returned after 2 days now but replace with something EXTRA clean hands counting also yeah.

EDIT * Just Make SURE every time you are doing the tilting not resting-running that your port screw or lid is tightened down


----------



## Costas

Slightly different look to EK's XTOP REVO Dual D5 setup:


----------



## derickwm

Day 1 at the In Win 30th anniversary modding contest in Taiwan, your favorite Brits


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Day 1 at the In Win 30th anniversary modding contest in Taiwan, your favorite Brits


HD a few people talking you at the Columbus OH Expo, also we were poking fun at the ThermalTake rep a little bit lol (all in fun though)


----------



## catbuster

Bneg sure is having fun


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/plNZ15hxj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pnwshX4gj
> 
> I was about to order one of the Singularity computers ethereal res mounts from Australia then found out e22 started stocking them in the UK, might get a Black one also.


I bought the dual versions, and it's awesome!!!


----------



## emsj86

Now can one duel version hold two res with pumps connected


----------



## khemist

Yeah.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Bneg sure is having fun


When you are cooling your junk in 42c heat with a 120 psi airline,damn right I'm having fun.

And Derick will pay for that photo......


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you are cooling your junk in 42c heat with a 120 psi airline,damn right I'm having fun.
> 
> And Derick will pay for that photo......


This is priceless!!







lmao!


----------



## Crosshatch3D

I'm building a ground-up custom loop.

I'll show plans off in the next few weeks. I think the only thing I am going to buy are fittings and hardline tubing.

Might be going with a Wolfenstein theme.

Hmmmmm









-Jason


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Going to make this bad boy for my 980TI FTW even though it's for the GTX1080. I'll have to swap the green acrylic window for Red.

I like the idea of making a custom case but keeping it super simple. This thread has given me some good ideas for a custom case.

Cheers all!



-Jason


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crosshatch3D*
> 
> Going to make this bad boy for my 980TI FTW even though it's for the GTX1080. I'll have to swap the green acrylic window for Red.
> 
> I like the idea of making a custom case but keeping it super simple. This thread has given me some good ideas for a custom case.
> 
> Cheers all!
> 
> 
> 
> -Jason


hey let me know how that turns out if you can make two easily I may purchase one of you, if your willing that is. I have a 980 TI FTW just laying around doing nothing and I can't bring myself to just air cool it or put anything but a full cover block on it and I definitely don't have the skills to pull something like that off myself nor the equipment for that matter. I'm a little picky lol ?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you are cooling your junk in 42c heat with a 120 psi airline,damn right I'm having fun.
> 
> And Derick will pay for that photo......


Darn, that is 107F. They sure having Summer early. Usually only gets that high here in the South during mid Summer. Think hottest weather I been in is 115F with high Southern humidity cutting grass with push mower.









But heck, I don't blame anyone using any means to cool off when that hot.


----------



## derickwm

Project Pipe Dream for Computex




































































































More photos:

http://imgur.com/a/TTbBf


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Project Pipe Dream for Computex
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos:
> http://imgur.com/a/TTbBf


that looks really great Derick.I like very much. tasty lines.


----------



## sinnedone

Looking real goo there @derickwm









The pictures with the motherboard lit up in red look real good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Love the build dwm. Although the braided Power Cable fell flat with me. I can see where you were going with it howver.









~Ceadder


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey ladies and gents long time no post. Just upgraded to a Skylake setup from my Ivy build. Here's the build on my Primochill Wet Bench. Deeply considering going back to the case life though. Last time I was around here the acrylic tubing was just taking off. I see that everyone is doing it now!! Not really my style though. I enjoy my floppy tubing









My loop is pretty simple. I'm just running a single 420mm Monsta radiator in push/pull for the 980 Ti and delidded 6700k. Max temps on the GPU are 41C and with the 6700k they are 49C. Both the GPU and CPU are sporting EK blocks. Very happy with this monoblock from EK. Looks real slick too!


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love the build dwm. Although the braided Power Cable fell flat with me. I can see where you were going with it howver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Was there something in particular you didn't like about it? Quite curious


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Polished for a couple hours tonight.

More in the Popped Cherry Log














TCO


----------



## brazilianloser

Any tips on first time moving with my system... The drive will be about 2 hours assuming there is no traffic... Should I drain the system or as long as it is padded with some pillows and properly secured it should be fine?

Sig rig bellow to showcase what the system looks like, size and type of water cooling.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love the build dwm. Although the braided Power Cable fell flat with me. I can see where you were going with it howver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was there something in particular you didn't like about it? Quite curious
Click to expand...

i loved it if it makes any difference. i wanna do it with mine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Any tips on first time moving with my system... The drive will be about 2 hours assuming there is no traffic... Should I drain the system or as long as it is padded with some pillows and properly secured it should be fine?
> 
> Sig rig bellow to showcase what the system looks like, size and type of water cooling.


drain it, depending on the video card, if you are worried about the weight support it or remove it !


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Polished for a couple hours tonight.
> 
> More in the Popped Cherry Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I don't usually like that CSQ design, but it looks fantastic all polished up like that! Nice work


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Polished for a couple hours tonight.
> 
> More in the Popped Cherry Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


TCO you are The Polish-Meister!

Ps. Still need to make pics of my S3 , I know I'm slacking







very soon now though!

Oh now I think of, I can give a little teaser:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I don't usually like that CSQ design, but it looks fantastic all polished up like that! Nice work


When you polish the Frost off, you start to realize you can work with Glass-Like clarity under the frosting









Appreciate that. I don't mind an hour or two of sanding to get this effect.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> TCO you are The Polish-Meister!
> 
> Ps. Still need to make pics of my S3 , I know I'm slacking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very soon now though!
> 
> Oh now I think of, I can give a little teaser:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


@lowfat credit is to him. He is the Acrylic God. Got the idea from his Thread a long time ago. Have polished quite a few blocks now. Lowfat uses motorized tools nowadays, where as I still do everything by hand. I know I miss some cracks and crevices, but I don't mind knowing it was all done by hand.









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love the build dwm. Although the braided Power Cable fell flat with me. I can see where you were going with it howver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was there something in particular you didn't like about it? Quite curious
Click to expand...

2 Black strands.

Nothing wrong with it but a third color would have worked better.









~Ceadder


----------



## dmfree88

Just a thought but after polishing you may want to consider using wax to seal it in. Not sure what polish you used but generally compounds and polishes don't have a protectant inside. For longevity sake it might be smart to put wax on the surface to help keep the clear shine for longer. (I detail yachts for a living, waxing acrylic tables regularly, they can become dull fast without surface sealant of some sort)


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Any tips on first time moving with my system... The drive will be about 2 hours assuming there is no traffic... Should I drain the system or as long as it is padded with some pillows and properly secured it should be fine?
> 
> Sig rig bellow to showcase what the system looks like, size and type of water cooling.


Hmmm, yeah, I agree with the other. Drain it, I never moved a hard tube build, but I have moved a water build with the plastic tubing with full water. That of course using a whole bunch of towels and padding and securing it to my truck's sit. (A Haf X with CPU only loop is still a heavy piece of pain in the arse rig to move) But best to not take the chance with a rigid build.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Just a thought but after polishing you may want to consider using wax to seal it in. Not sure what polish you used but generally compounds and polishes don't have a protectant inside. For longevity sake it might be smart to put wax on the surface to help keep the clear shine for longer. (I detail yachts for a living, waxing acrylic tables regularly, they can become dull fast without surface sealant of some sort)


Thanks, Here is the description for Plastix

"Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish gently removes light oxidation, chemical degradation, surface contamination, stains and light surface scratches with ease. *It features water resistant polymers that provide long lasting durable protection*. This cleaner and polish contains rich gel formula that quickly restores optical clarity to both rigid and flexible clear plastics. "

TCO


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks, Here is the description for Plastix
> 
> "Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish gently removes light oxidation, chemical degradation, surface contamination, stains and light surface scratches with ease. *It features water resistant polymers that provide long lasting durable protection*. This cleaner and polish contains rich gel formula that quickly restores optical clarity to both rigid and flexible clear plastics. "
> 
> TCO


Nice probably good then. Meguiar's is good stuff for marine wax so I would assume their plastic polish is good quality too. Looks great


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Nice probably good then. Meguiar's is good stuff for marine wax so I would assume their plastic polish is good quality too. Looks great


Thanks Champ









My Fingers are now sanded too. I thought for a second I had lost my fingerprints, but low and behold, they remain after the pain.









TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks Champ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *My Fingers are now sanded too.* I thought for a second I had lost my fingerprints, but low and behold, they remain after the pain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Don't you love it when that happens. I need a polishing machine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks Champ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *My Fingers are now sanded too.* I thought for a second I had lost my fingerprints, but low and behold, they remain after the pain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Don't you love it when that happens. I need a polishing machine.
Click to expand...

Hahaha I go through the pain too. Although, when I am lapping chips. But yeah, feel tha buuuuurn!









~Ceadder


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone know If I can reuse soft tubing? it has been running in my system for about 6-7 months now. Basically I am keeping everything the same, I just want to know If I can keep it and use a different colored coolant.


----------



## wermad

Which brand? Should be able to reuse Primochill Advance Lrt.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Just a thought but after polishing you may want to consider using wax to seal it in. Not sure what polish you used but generally compounds and polishes don't have a protectant inside. For longevity sake it might be smart to put wax on the surface to help keep the clear shine for longer. (I detail yachts for a living, waxing acrylic tables regularly, they can become dull fast without surface sealant of some sort)


Yup. Although I wouldn't use a wax but synthetic products. I use Carpro CQuartz, although it expensive. 303 Aerospace is what I'd recommend for a cheaper solution.

The polished acrylic will definitely dull w/ age w/o protection. PlastX as far as I could tell provided no protection at all. It absolutely isn't resistant to water as if it were, water would bead off it it, which it doesn't.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone know If I can reuse soft tubing? it has been running in my system for about 6-7 months now. Basically I am keeping everything the same, I just want to know If I can keep it and use a different colored coolant.


you can without issue, replace it when you want to


----------



## realtomatoes

hey guys
if i read right, i need to post my build before am added to the club.

it's alil old but i haven't got new pix since i added a new radiator, i guess this will do:
http://imgur.com/a/ByeYA
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/3xpe2m/try_watercooling_done/


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *realtomatoes*
> 
> hey guys
> if i read right, i need to post my build before am added to the club.
> 
> it's alil old but i haven't got new pix since i added a new radiator, i guess this will do:
> http://imgur.com/a/ByeYA
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/3xpe2m/try_watercooling_done/


Hi there, first of all, welcome to OCN and the Water Cooling Club.

Don't worry about your platform being a little older, there are plenty of people on this forum that are still on Sandy bridge. And most of your other components seem pretty up to date, and it looks good too.









Aside from that, you might want to upload your pictures here too, by using the little image button above the text editor. This way they get listed in the club's gallery, among all the other watercooling and not so water cooling related stuff uploaded here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## alltheGHz

Polished blocks! Nice!


----------



## Sazexa

So, I've just placed an order for the DanCase A4-SFX. I've got several plans for it, one being a possible watercooling loop. Would be very difficult though.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> TCO


Blocks looks amazing!

Just wonder why EK are so stupid to destroy the perfection with those ugly, UGLY rings!?!? The rings on all their blocks are disgusting to be honest


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Blocks looks amazing!
> 
> Just wonder why EK are so stupid to destroy the perfection with those ugly, UGLY rings!?!? The rings on all their blocks are disgusting to be honest


some people like them. remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. i may as well ask, why do you have the picture of that ugly ass woman for your avatar?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> some people like them. remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. i may as well ask, why do you have the picture of that ugly ass woman for your avatar?


I see what you did there


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> some people like them. remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. i may as well ask, why do you have the picture of that ugly ass woman for your avatar?


Drum roll please









TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Which brand? Should be able to reuse Primochill Advance Lrt.


I am using masterkleer brand of tubing.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I am using masterkleer brand of tubing.


Bin it, it's horrid tubing, I'll never use it again, if you want cheap and good tubing then Mayhems Ultra Clear is good stuff, it's soft and easy to use, if you need firmer tubing then Primochill Avanced LRT.

My masterkleer stuff clouded in days and when bright green.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Bin it, it's horrid tubing, I'll never use it again, if you want cheap and good tubing then Mayhems Ultra Clear is good stuff, it's soft and easy to use, if you need firmer tubing then Primochill Avanced LRT.
> 
> My masterkleer stuff clouded in days and when bright green.


Yeah, my tubing is not clear and has become clouded within the use of 6-7 months. I'll look into the Mayhems tubing, Thanks.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Bin it, it's horrid tubing, I'll never use it again, if you want cheap and good tubing then Mayhems Ultra Clear is good stuff, it's soft and easy to use, if you need firmer tubing then Primochill Avanced LRT.
> 
> My masterkleer stuff clouded in days and when bright green.


OHHHHHHH DAMN! So I am not the only one?? I have a few cuts of master clear (or what it's called) in my build. And it's cloudy after one month with Mayhem X1 UV green.

I got a bunch of new soft tubing from Alphacool recently, any experience with that? I hope that one is better than that crap I have right now.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> ]
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Blocks looks amazing!
> 
> Just wonder why EK are so stupid to destroy the perfection with those ugly, UGLY rings!?!? The rings on all their blocks are disgusting to be honest
Click to expand...

You know we offer blocks without circles right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Which brand? Should be able to reuse Primochill Advance Lrt.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using masterkleer brand of tubing.
Click to expand...

As previously said, bin right away. Very troublesome tubing.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You know we offer blocks without circles right?
> As previously said, bin right away. Very troublesome tubing.


I do have the EVGA 980 Ti Hydro Copper, which has an EK block, without the rings, so obviously







But the Hydro copper was the first 980 Ti block without rings right?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You know we offer blocks without circles right?
> As previously said, bin right away. Very troublesome tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> I do have the EVGA 980 Ti Hydro Copper, which has an EK block, without the rings, so obviously
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the Hydro copper was the first 980 Ti block without rings right?
Click to expand...

We started making blocks without rings with the GTX780.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> We started making blocks without rings with the GTX780.


My bad, I meant for the 980 Ti, because when I bought it, there was only the one with rings available to purchase separately.

And don't be mad because I don't like the rings. I still stand by that EK makes the best water blocks you can buy, I do also have the supramecy evo acrylic, it's the best and the best good looking cpu block you can buy!

The only ones who can compete with a different style is XSPC with their razor blocks, but they don't fit ITX motherboards.


----------



## Bogga

About the tubing... been looking at every single part for ages just to get nice and correct parts for my new build. When I looked at tubing I googled (pictures) "Masterkleer" and this is the first image you find...



After looking around I've decided to go with Mayhems tubing. Really nice price on caseking.de


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I am using masterkleer brand of tubing.


If you have a bottle brush just clean the tubing out before use. Most of the plasticizers should have leeched out of the tubing so it stay clearer.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I am using masterkleer brand of tubing.


I have used Mastkleer red tubing its been in my rig for over 4 years no problem.
Just be a little cautious of what other people experiences are, I often think that back in the day before professional coolant was available is when most of the problems happen, especially with biocide it is a nasty chemical that will eat paint and oxidise metal if not diluted to correct ratio. 1 drop always seems way too little so most people were putting 4-5 drops what's the harm right? truth being that 1 drop way way too much for a small loop.


----------



## SteezyTN

What fans are super quiet for watercooling radiators? I think I'm going to replace my SP120 QE's with something else. I finally got my loop to be ultra quiet, except for the fans. Also, I've noticed that the EK vardars 120ER's and 140ER's are noisy at 40% RPM.


----------



## IT Diva

Did some work on my P5 build this weekend, . . . .

Revamped the light panel and came up with a spiffy dual cascading res setup.

Going with cathodes in the res's this time instead of LED strips . . . . Modified a quad inverter to a dual Hi Intensity output to get good brightness on the 15" cathode.

Now to get some more materials in so I can do the light panel the full size of the chassis, under the mobo and PSU.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What fans are super quiet for watercooling radiators? I think I'm going to replace my SP120 QE's with something else. I finally got my loop to be ultra quiet, except for the fans. Also, I've noticed that the EK vardars 120ER's and 140ER's are noisy at 40% RPM.


Fans are such a personal thing mate...Try checking good reviews and comparisons like (old now but still valid Martin's) and others.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/

To me, for rads, the still king of the hill are GTs, now in PWM flavor thanks to darkside/daz, are the way to go. Easy to paint too and the PWM models coming from Darkside are fully black.

https://modmymods.com/fans-accessories/120mm-fans.html

also offer a custom paint job. They are not the cheapest fan around but if you are not using the fans around 600 rpm then the silence/performance ratio on Gts to me are worth. If you will use the fans at 500-600 rpm then get whatever you want because most fans (unless the fan is a crap one) will perform more or less the same. A lot of people these days recommend the Vardar which are good fans. But GTs to me have a more pleasant silent/noise signature than the vardars.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What fans are super quiet for watercooling radiators? I think I'm going to replace my SP120 QE's with something else. I finally got my loop to be ultra quiet, except for the fans. Also, I've noticed that the EK vardars 120ER's and 140ER's are noisy at 40% RPM.


Anything at 40% is going to start making noise tbh, my SP120 PE are quiet with a LNA on them but once you ramp them up they get loud.


----------



## realtomatoes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Hi there, first of all, welcome to OCN and the Water Cooling Club.
> 
> Don't worry about your platform being a little older, there are plenty of people on this forum that are still on Sandy bridge. And most of your other components seem pretty up to date, and it looks good too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aside from that, you might want to upload your pictures here too, by using the little image button above the text editor. This way they get listed in the club's gallery, among all the other watercooling and not so water cooling related stuff uploaded here.












And there she is.


----------



## realtomatoes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Did some work on my P5 build this weekend, . . . .
> 
> Revamped the light panel and came up with a spiffy dual cascading res setup.
> 
> Going with cathodes in the res's this time instead of LED strips . . . . Modified a quad inverter to a dual Hi Intensity output to get good brightness on the 15" cathode.
> 
> Now to get some more materials in so I can do the light panel the full size of the chassis, under the mobo and PSU.
> 
> Darlene


how'd you put those light in the res?


----------



## pc-illiterate

also tomato, use the spoiler tag to hide all but 1 picture when you quote someone, or just delete all but a single picture please.


----------



## realtomatoes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> also tomato, use the spoiler tag to hide all but 1 picture when you quote someone, or just delete all but a single picture please.


sorry. still new to this. lemme edit that post.


----------



## Mega Man

Your fine. Few people ever do that.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *realtomatoes*
> 
> sorry. still new to this. lemme edit that post.


Yeah people come at you with pitch forks if you don't, the scroll wheel is mega hard to turn.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah people come at you with pitch forks if you don't, the scroll wheel is mega hard to turn.


a piece of me dies when I'm browsing threads on mobile and the same post is quoted in its entirety several times within a few posts


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> a piece of me dies when I'm browsing threads on mobile and the same post is quoted in its entirety several times within a few posts


I think you might want to get out the house more.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I think you might want NEED to get out the house more.


close but I fixed it for you










Besides, I'm on mobile when I AM out of the house


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your fine. Few people ever do that.


which is why people are told to quote them. if you think its wrong, talk to bneg about it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah people come at you with pitch forks if you don't, the scroll wheel is mega hard to turn.


not everyone sits at home on a pc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> a piece of me dies when I'm browsing threads on mobile and the same post is quoted in its entirety several times within a few posts


exactly. its a huge pain
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I think you might want to get out the house more.


still thinking people spend their lives indoors.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Probably 75% of the time I'm on this forum I'm on mobile. Also fun too when people get all defensive about you asking for a link to their build log when they show off a few pics - mobile site doesn't show sigs.

Yup, I have a lovely and powerful desktop but I tend to check forums on my phone when out and about.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Probably 75% of the time I'm on this forum I'm on mobile. Also fun too when people get all defensive about you asking for a link to their build log when they show off a few pics - mobile site doesn't show sigs.
> 
> Yup, I have a lovely and powerful desktop but I tend to check forums on my phone when out and about.


Well, for example, I have my project logs on Bit Tech forum and sweclockers, and I am not even allowed to link them here, the moderators are faster than fast to ask you about NO LINKS


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Well, for example, I have my project logs on Bit Tech forum and sweclockers, and I am not even allowed to link them here, the moderators are faster than fast to ask you about NO LINKS


I'd forgotten about that, but I can also understand why a site would want to self-promote logs that are on its own forums. I was referring mainly to people who put a link in their sig and then expect it to always be visible to everyone because they put it in their sig.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your fine. Few people ever do that.


But they should,its good etiquette and a requirement in this thread.

Please spoiler all but one or two pics when quoting. Its common practise in other forums to ban image quoters.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *realtomatoes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Hi there, first of all, welcome to OCN and the Water Cooling Club.
> 
> Don't worry about your platform being a little older, there are plenty of people on this forum that are still on Sandy bridge. And most of your other components seem pretty up to date, and it looks good too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aside from that, you might want to upload your pictures here too, by using the little image button above the text editor. This way they get listed in the club's gallery, among all the other watercooling and not so water cooling related stuff uploaded here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And there she is.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> also tomato, use the spoiler tag to hide all but 1 picture when you quote someone, or just delete all but a single picture please.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your fine. Few people ever do that.
> 
> 
> 
> But they should,its good etiquette and a requirement in this thread.
> 
> Please spoiler all but one or two pics when quoting. Its common practise in other forums to ban image quoters.
Click to expand...

ok, but where did he quote anyone. ? if you click the top quote which i have quoted, you will see those are all "his" pics, not a quote - i deleted all but one as i am quoting


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What fans are super quiet for watercooling radiators? I think I'm going to replace my SP120 QE's with something else. I finally got my loop to be ultra quiet, except for the fans. Also, I've noticed that the EK vardars 120ER's and 140ER's are noisy at 40% RPM.
> 
> 
> 
> Fans are such a personal thing mate...Try checking good reviews and comparisons like (old now but still valid Martin's) and others.
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/
> 
> To me, for rads, the still king of the hill are GTs, now in PWM flavor thanks to darkside/daz, are the way to go. Easy to paint too and the PWM models coming from Darkside are fully black.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/fans-accessories/120mm-fans.html
> 
> also offer a custom paint job. They are not the cheapest fan around but if you are not using the fans around 600 rpm then the silence/performance ratio on Gts to me are worth. If you will use the fans at 500-600 rpm then get whatever you want because most fans (unless the fan is a crap one) will perform more or less the same. A lot of people these days recommend the Vardar which are good fans. But GTs to me have a more pleasant silent/noise signature than the vardars.
Click to expand...

Gotta agree with Gabriel on the GT's, been my rad fan of choice for years now.
Great performance, and a good sound profile, imo.
Dazmodes link for the Darkside GT's that he imports, he has a good stock of them atm:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition-pwm/

That price is in Canadian dollars, the US dollar is still very strong, so it works out to about 19.26 USD each atm. Your buck goes a long way there.









Edit:
Nice Thermalbench review by VSG linked there as well:
http://thermalbench.com/2015/11/12/darkside-gentle-typhoon-1850-pwm-120mm-fan/


----------



## Nichismo

Finally, after almost half a year of letting it sit without activity, I got my machine back up and running.... still have alot of smaller little bells and whistles I need to add/finish but I can finally use it again. Alot more pictures to take/show as well...


----------



## FXformat

New look for 2016...ditched white coolant, went back to clear...waiting for the Ram waterblock and unecessarily water cool those too.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Finally, after almost half a year of letting it sit without activity, I got my machine back up and running.... still have alot of smaller little bells and whistles I need to add/finish but I can finally use it again. Alot more pictures to take/show as well...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice and clean







Is that an Intel branded SLI bridge?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> a piece of me dies when I'm browsing threads on mobile and the same post is quoted in its entirety several times within a few posts


@Benjiw I laughed so hard when I read that as I thought that exact line numerous times myself. ? @Oldchicken I also completely understand what you're saying as far as the threads being tidy and duplicate posts numerous times on the same page. This Thread is immaculate compared to some of the others on OCN because the people on this thread take it upon themselves to enforce this policy for good reason in order to make it tidy and it's great. I was on a different thread the other day and for seven pages in a row I saw the same five pictures of someone's computer room and the comments were mainly just "looking good" and the like, not really anything of any importance which makes it even worse. Not a single person use spoilers and it was actually really irritating, not that the scroll wheel is hard to turn or anything I'm also looking at it on my phone and I don't mind scrolling with my thumb, but it's irritating to try to go through a thread for fun and info and just see the same thing over and over and over and over. So while I do think it's hilarious what Benji said I do see the importance of keeping this thread tidy using a spoilers as I think it would drive me crazy otherwise because I actually stopped reading the other thread because I kept seeing the same thing so many times it's like there was nothing new for 7 whole pages and we have a lot more pages and posts then that thread and most others so I can't imagine what it would be like if no one used spoilers.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But they should,its good etiquette and a requirement in this thread.
> 
> Please spoiler all but one or two pics when quoting. Its common practise in other forums to ban image quoters.


he's absolutely right especially if you take a look at the threads like official computer room pics. It's horrendous how they don't use spoilers for anything and like I said in the post that I just posted I literally stopped reading because I saw the same guys 5 pictures for 7 pages and nothing but that. B Neg definitely has the right idea about how to moderate this thread.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Finally, after almost half a year of letting it sit without activity, I got my machine back up and running.... still have alot of smaller little bells and whistles I need to add/finish but I can finally use it again. Alot more pictures to take/show as well...


Looks great! ? just out of curiosity does the back case cover actually fit on with that hardline sticking out like that? I'm not nitpicking. Honestly, fantastic build and better than I could do I was just curious.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Looks great! ? just out of curiosity does the back case cover actually fit on with that hardline sticking out like that? I'm not nitpicking. Honestly, fantastic build and better than I could do I was just curious.


Ironically, could you edit previous posts instead of doing what you are doing right now.

TCO

EDIT:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> a piece of me dies when I'm browsing threads on mobile and the same post is quoted in its entirety several times within a few posts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Benjiw I laughed so hard when I read that as I thought that exact line numerous times myself. ? @Oldchicken I also completely understand what you're saying as far as the threads being tidy and duplicate posts numerous times on the same page. This Thread is immaculate compared to some of the others on OCN because the people on this thread take it upon themselves to enforce this policy for good reason in order to make it tidy and it's great. I was on a different thread the other day and for seven pages in a row I saw the same five pictures of someone's computer room and the comments were mainly just "looking good" and the like, not really anything of any importance which makes it even worse. Not a single person use spoilers and it was actually really irritating, not that the scroll wheel is hard to turn or anything I'm also looking at it on my phone and I don't mind scrolling with my thumb, but it's irritating to try to go through a thread for fun and info and just see the same thing over and over and over and over. So while I do think it's hilarious what Benji said I do see the importance of keeping this thread tidy using a spoilers as I think it would drive me crazy otherwise because I actually stopped reading the other thread because I kept seeing the same thing so many times it's like there was nothing new for 7 whole pages and we have a lot more pages and posts then that thread and most others so I can't imagine what it would be like if no one used spoilers.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But they should,its good etiquette and a requirement in this thread.
> 
> Please spoiler all but one or two pics when quoting. Its common practise in other forums to ban image quoters.
> 
> 
> 
> he's absolutely right especially if you take a look at the threads like official computer room pics. It's horrendous how they don't use spoilers for anything and like I said in the post that I just posted I literally stopped reading because I saw the same guys 5 pictures for 7 pages and nothing but that. B Neg definitely has the right idea about how to moderate this thread.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Finally, after almost half a year of letting it sit without activity, I got my machine back up and running.... still have alot of smaller little bells and whistles I need to add/finish but I can finally use it again. Alot more pictures to take/show as well...
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great! ? just out of curiosity does the back case cover actually fit on with that hardline sticking out like that? I'm not nitpicking. Honestly, fantastic build and better than I could do I was just curious.
Click to expand...





Huh. Your talking about what irritates you and proper forum and your triple posting? Huh?

Edit TCO beat me to it.

While we are on etiquette can I ask why people don't pull people aside in a pm to friendly coach someone rather then make them feel singled out and feel like a tool for not being "proper". Even our mods do this.

That is my biggest complaint here. You ( not singling anyone out, "you" being the collective "you" ) make them feel like morons and in the end we lose out. People refuse to come to this forum/post in this thread for fear of being ridiculed.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> Huh. Your talking about what irritates you and proper forum and your triple posting? Huh?


Yea.... That was kind of trippy... Wasn't sure I was seeing it correctly myself... but nonetheless.

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Yea you posted before me. Then I edited and said you said it first


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Mega Man

This is getting to confusing.









If someone can't handle being spoken to like a grown man or woman.....









TCO


----------



## ShiftysBlade

@megaman@TheCautiousOne at risk of posting again and making myself seem like even more of an idiot I realized that right after I did it but for some reason it won't let me delete it on my phone so I was going to wait till I got back to my desktop. I can admit when I messed up and I don't mind being told so. I basically just did the same thing I was complaining about so it's only natural.

Humble apologies. ?


----------



## Mega Man

no need, and fyi we cant delete our own posts


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> @megaman@TheCautiousOne at risk of posting again and making myself seem like even more of an idiot I realized that right after I did it but for some reason it won't let me delete it on my phone so I was going to wait till I got back to my desktop. I can admit when I messed up and I don't mind being told so. I basically just did the same thing I was complaining about so it's only natural.
> 
> Humble apologies. ?


No Problem. Just giving a point of advice. Not here to bash, just attempting to keep the thread flowing.

TCO

EDIT: Mega Man ,you and I are on top of it yeh?


----------



## BWAS1000

You know what bothers my OCD and triggers my inner Grammar Nazi? Mistaking you're and your. Please people, stop doing it


----------



## Mega Man

your goona hate me youre ocd may cause issues ( kidding,.... maybe )


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your goona hate me *youre* ocd may cause issues ( kidding,.... maybe )


1: I know that's, exactly why I posted that ??
2: did you do that on purpose?


----------



## Mega Man

maybeh ! should i go further with your gonna have to decide or your gonna be driven crazy ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

DO IT

TCO


----------



## BWAS1000

Evil people I swear ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Evil people I swear ?


This isn't where I parked my Car...

Sorry about that









TCO


----------



## Mega Man

your right, what fun would we have if we were not ?


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Looks great! ? just out of curiosity does the back case cover actually fit on with that hardline sticking out like that? I'm not nitpicking. Honestly, fantastic build and better than I could do I was just curious.


absolutely it does! with a few more millimeters to spare









Thats just another reason I love my case (Caselabs SM8), a whole 11 inches wide!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Looks nice and clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that an Intel branded SLI bridge?


yes indeed it is







you like? because I actually have a couple more of them.... if you want, I could send one your way!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> 1: I know that's, exactly why I posted that ??
> 2: did you do that on purpose?


Seriously lmao...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys random question. Does anyone know if Performancs-PCS was open today? I always have my orders ship very quickly, but I just checked and the order I placed yesterday morning did not ship today and the order is still processing which is very strange. Perhaps they were closed yesterday AND today?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, but where did he quote anyone. ? if you click the top quote which i have quoted, you will see those are all "his" pics, not a quote - i deleted all but one as i am quoting


tomato quoted diva's post for her build pics. the post is gone now. probably deleted by special request...


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys random question. Does anyone know if Performancs-PCS was open today? I always have my orders ship very quickly, but I just checked and the order I placed yesterday morning did not ship today and the order is still processing which is very strange. Perhaps they were closed yesterday AND today?


I placed an order on Sunday and it shipped right away today, so they were definitely open.


----------



## ruffhi

Oh goodie ... 22 new posts on the water cooling club thread but all I get is forum & grammar police.

Here is a picture of how to straighten flexi-tubing.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I placed an order on Sunday and it shipped right away today, so they were definitely open.


Damn well that's strange. This puts my build off to next week







Hopefully they'll let me upgrade the shipping if I call early tomorrow. Thanks for the quick response! +REP


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys random question. Does anyone know if Performancs-PCS was open today? I always have my orders ship very quickly, but I just checked and the order I placed yesterday morning did not ship today and the order is still processing which is very strange. Perhaps they were closed yesterday AND today?


I think they were open because I ordered some stuff 2 days ago and got an email around noon today that my order was shipping.

You may want to check up on it.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> I think they were open because I ordered some stuff 2 days ago and got an email around noon today that my order was shipping.
> 
> You may want to check up on it.


Will do, thanks! Alright, now back to water cooling talk! I just didn't want to start a new thread and give them a bad name or anything. They've always been great and I'm sure there is a valid reason it hasn't shipped yet.

To get back on topic I'll let you guys in on the stuff I ordered. So this is my current setup:




I've decided to go back to the case life so I picked up a Phanteks Enthoo Primo from Newegg which will be here tomorrow. Since I can't fit my 420mm Monsta rad in the Primo I picked up three Alphacool rads; a UT60 360mm, XT45 420mm, and a ST30 240mm. Figured I might as well fill up the case while I'm at it. I also grabbed some matte black tubing to replace the white that I have now that I don't really like. Also picked up a backplate for my 980 Ti since I'm going to be dealing with GPU sag again. Also got some Bitfenix black and red cable extensions since I don't want to sleeve my PSU since it will be coming with me to the next build which might be a different color scheme. Then there are some random things like a drain port, some extensions, a pump bracket, and other goodies.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Also picked up a backplate for my 980 Ti since I'm going to be dealing with GPU sag again. Also got some Bitfenix black and red cable extensions since I don't want to sleeve my PSU since it will be coming with me to the next build which might be a different color scheme. Then there are some random things like a drain port, some extensions, a pump bracket, and other goodies.


I consider backplates watercooling topic worthy since they will protect your GPUs from falling screws while installing radiators etc.

Maybe GPU sag isn't exactly on topic but I don't think backplates help with GPU sag too much. If anything they just add more weight.

I find GPU sag is often more a function of the way in which the PCI bracket is screwed to the case. The tighter you anchor it to the case, the less it will be able to sag. Another good way to ninja anchor a card is with tubing.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I consider backplates watercooling topic worthy since they will protect your GPUs from falling screws while installing radiators etc.
> 
> Maybe GPU sag isn't exactly on topic but I don't think backplates help with GPU sag too much. If anything they just add more weight.
> 
> I find GPU sag is often more a function of the way in which the PCI bracket is screwed to the case. The tighter you anchor it to the case, the less it will be able to sag. Another good way to ninja anchor a card is with tubing.


That's very true. Hopefully these metal braced PCI slots on this Gigabyte G1 motherboard has a little more strength. I have used the tubing trick before though and it does work very well. I'm keeping the same GPU to Monoblock tube I have now so that should help too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I consider backplates watercooling topic worthy since they will protect your GPUs from falling screws while installing radiators etc.
> 
> Maybe GPU sag isn't exactly on topic but I don't think backplates help with GPU sag too much. *If anything they just add more weight.*
> 
> I find GPU sag is often more a function of the way in which the PCI bracket is screwed to the case. The tighter you anchor it to the case, the less it will be able to sag. Another good way to ninja anchor a card is with tubing.


Couldn't agree more.

Unless the pci slot in the back of the case is wonky, and the pcb is flimsy, It's hard to imagine that the Backplate would reduce sag.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Backplates reinforces the pcb to create more contact pressure and reduce deformation,especially with thermal pads,it does nothing for sag.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That's very true. Hopefully these metal braced PCI slots on this Gigabyte G1 motherboard has a little more strength. I have used the tubing trick before though and it does work very well. I'm keeping the same GPU to Monoblock tube I have now so that should help too.


I had two blocked 295x2's with no sag on the G1. Cant get much heavier unless its a custom like the ares air or devil 13 air


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Couldn't agree more.
> 
> Unless the pci slot in the back of the case is wonky, and the pcb is flimsy, It's hard to imagine that the Backplate would reduce sag.
> 
> TCO


Agreed, my backplate helps hide the sag with the illusion of lining up the card with everything so to speak but the sag is still there, maybe reduce the PCB curve? But alas.. still sagging like an older ladies fun bags.


----------



## realtomatoes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I had two blocked 295x2's with no sag on the G1. Cant get much heavier unless its a custom like the ares air or devil 13 air


so those metal covers the the pcie are more than a gimmick?


----------



## mus1mus

Not Gimmicks. They make the aesthetics better. Protects the backside... just to name a few.

Edit: You meant the Metals on the PCIE.

They are meant to be for what they call as "Shielding" EMI Shielding for the PCIe slots that is. And not to stiffen them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Also picked up a backplate for my 980 Ti since I'm going to be dealing with GPU sag again. Also got some Bitfenix black and red cable extensions since I don't want to sleeve my PSU since it will be coming with me to the next build which might be a different color scheme. Then there are some random things like a drain port, some extensions, a pump bracket, and other goodies.
> 
> 
> 
> I consider backplates watercooling topic worthy since they will protect your GPUs from falling screws while installing radiators etc.
> 
> Maybe GPU sag isn't exactly on topic but I don't think backplates help with GPU sag too much. If anything they just add more weight.
> 
> I find GPU sag is often more a function of the way in which the PCI bracket is screwed to the case. The tighter you anchor it to the case, the less it will be able to sag. Another good way to ninja anchor a card is with tubing.
Click to expand...

imo some PCBs are more prone to sag then others ( like wood ) it just happens
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not Gimmicks. They make the aesthetics better. Protects the backside... just to name a few.
> 
> Edit: You meant the Metals on the PCIE.
> 
> They are meant to be for what they call as "Shielding" EMI Shielding for the PCIe slots that is. And not to stiffen them.


i smell gimmick !


----------



## mus1mus

Yeah man. I do. Ever ever since they pulled that stuff..

BTW-- first sentences were directed to the backplate as I misunderstood the above query.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

https://forum.inwin-style.com/forum/in-win-events/-2016-mod-in-taiwan/1882-vote-here-for-your-favorite

Get them votes in!


----------



## sdmf74

Can anyone with a Samsung 850 pro open up smart with magician or crystaldiskinfo and tell me or post ss what your wear leveling count is for the "worst column"?
I have 2 other Samsung ssd's and both always report the same number in the current & worst columns, for example 96-current & 96-worst.
I am curious because when it was brand new a few weeks ago it read 100 in both columns (of course)

but now its reading a 1 in the worst column ( I realize the raw data represents the total count of P/E cycles ) but I cant figure out why it dropped to 1 in the worst column, never seen this before
and didnt even think its possible at least not until its at EOL.

I asked this in ssd owners club a few days ago with zero responses so I figured I would get some replies here, thanks!


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Will do, thanks! Alright, now back to water cooling talk! I just didn't want to start a new thread and give them a bad name or anything. They've always been great and I'm sure there is a valid reason it hasn't shipped yet.
> 
> To get back on topic I'll let you guys in on the stuff I ordered. So this is my current setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've decided to go back to the case life so I picked up a Phanteks Enthoo Primo from Newegg which will be here tomorrow. Since I can't fit my 420mm Monsta rad in the Primo I picked up three Alphacool rads; a UT60 360mm, XT45 420mm, and a ST30 240mm. Figured I might as well fill up the case while I'm at it. I also grabbed some matte black tubing to replace the white that I have now that I don't really like. Also picked up a backplate for my 980 Ti since I'm going to be dealing with GPU sag again. Also got some Bitfenix black and red cable extensions since I don't want to sleeve my PSU since it will be coming with me to the next build which might be a different color scheme. Then there are some random things like a drain port, some extensions, a pump bracket, and other goodies.


Is that an Acrylic base with CF wrap? or Acrylic and CF sheet/thin plating? Nice though.

-Jason


----------



## erso44

Hey there, I´m back









Quick question: Do I need to clean my GPU blocks (inside) ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Hey there, I´m back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question: Do I need to clean my GPU blocks (inside) ?


Possibly if there are things that are built up from previous use?

TCO


----------



## galletabah

what is TCO?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> what is TCO?


Lets play a Game Yes?

Guess









TCO


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Lets play a Game Yes?
> 
> Guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


mmmm...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> mmmm...


I Look forward to this entertainment, I really Do.

TCO


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> what is TCO?


What's his name?


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I Look forward to this entertainment, I really Do.
> 
> TCO


Sorry
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> What's his name?


Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> Sorry


No Need to apologize. I was getting excited









*TCO*


----------



## KaffieneKing

Lol









Just as well I dont do that or I could easily be misconstrued as a racist!


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No Need to apologize. I was getting excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *TCO*


hahahah xD

nice

*galletabah?*


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> hahahah xD
> 
> nice
> 
> *galletabah?*


Maybe Just Bah?









TCO


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Maybe Just Bah?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I like it

Bah


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> I like it
> 
> Bah


And that's how History is Made









TCO


----------



## Trito

Guys can I borrow your pro brains for a second?
I have a plan to maybe ditch my 250D setup and go with new CaseLabs BH2 and I'm thinking of going without reservoir. Could I set up a loop with pump->cpu->rad->pump and add a T fitting at the highest point with ball valve? Since volume of the liquid does not influence cooling efficiency there should be no problem apart from filling and draining the loop.

And filling the loop might even be quite easy if I add a temporary reservoir at the top of ball valve to fill and get rid of the bubbles and when done I could just close the ball valve and put a plug on.

So have anyone done this and is it a good idea?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Guys can I borrow your pro brains for a second?
> I have a plan to maybe ditch my 250D setup and go with new CaseLabs BH2 and I'm thinking of going without reservoir. Could I set up a loop with pump->cpu->rad->pump and add a T fitting at the highest point with ball valve? Since volume of the liquid does not influence cooling efficiency there should be no problem apart from filling and draining the loop.
> 
> And filling the loop might even be quite easy if I add a temporary reservoir at the top of ball valve to fill and get rid of the bubbles and when done I could just close the ball valve and put a plug on.
> 
> So have anyone done this and is it a good idea?


I suppose if the pump you had, had an extra "Inlet" to attach a hose with your fluid, when the pump takes all the fluid, stop the pump, etc.

I could See that.

TCO


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I suppose if the pump you had, had an extra "Inlet" to attach a hose with your fluid, when the pump takes all the fluid, stop the pump, etc.
> 
> I could See that.
> 
> TCO


Well right now I have EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 but I would buy a pump top to replace the current reservoir part. I would not have more than one inlet but I would add T valve right before the pump inlet port and set up a temporary reservoir so to speak. Only problem I see right now is how would I drain the loop. I might have to get more than one T valve.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Well right now I have EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 but I would buy a pump top to replace the current reservoir part. I would not have more than one inlet but I would add T valve right before the pump inlet port and set up a temporary reservoir so to speak. Only problem I see right now is how would I drain the loop. I might have to get more than one T valve.


Well, I for one would think that a ball valve could be an alternative, although I would more rely on a compression fitting with soft tubing somewhere in the lowest point of the "Loop"

Once you needed to drain the loop, I would just pinch the soft tubing and disconnect it from the compression fitting, and the drain from there.

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> what is TCO?
> 
> 
> 
> What's his name?
Click to expand...

nuh uh !

it means the caselabs one !


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nuh uh !
> 
> it means the caselabs one !


I never made a statement... the question mark states that it's a question


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I wish I could remember all of them in the Build Log I was called.

Goodness.

The Caselabs One,

The Crazy One

The Uncautious One

Etc... It was amazing, and I loved every minute of it.









Most from @taowulf I believe

TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I wish I could remember all of them in the Build Log I was called.
> 
> Goodness.
> 
> The Caselabs One,
> 
> The Crazy One
> 
> The Uncautious One
> 
> Etc... It was amazing, and I loved every minute of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most from @taowulf I believe
> 
> TCO


I do my best.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I do my best.


I knew you were lurking somewhere...









TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I knew you were lurking somewhere...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I am always watching.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I am always watching.


And for that we are gracious oh Wulf.

TCO


----------



## outofmyheadyo

All of these cases look amazing, mine is like a junkyard project compared to these


----------



## VSG

Got a couple of new CPU blocks in the house:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So I managed to get an alphacool XT45 280mm on the cheap to help my temperatures, but before I go and redo the loop, in what order would you reccomend doing things ?
> Right now it`s from the pump to the gpu and onwards, or is it largely irrelevant, because the water heats up eventually as someone said. The 280 will go infront of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a question about the coolant, atm I am running just pure distilled water with no additives, the only thing they have in stock at the store next door is
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/water-additives/ready-to-use/10545/phobya-zuperzero-clear-1000ml
> Is that okay or would you just run distilled water with no additives ?


it does not matter the order of the components in the loop. Do it using the "law of minimum" which is connecting components by vicinity and using the minimum amount of tube avoiding thus cluttering the case with criss-crossed tubes all over the place. Yours looks perfectly fine now. With the 280 in front just follow the flow mate...

I personally avoid using water only. I would buy a pre-mix coolant with biocides and anti corrosive.

edit - in color above...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> All of these cases look amazing, mine is like a junkyard project compared to these


Not a reason to remove your whole post and question.

Questions are important.









TCO


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I wanted to ask it in another thread, and asked it here by accident, we had a whole discussion there about my high temps and thought I`d follow up there.

e: oh you answered it before i removed it, and I didnt notice it was on the previous page, thanks for the info man


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got a couple of new CPU blocks in the house:






Final review ETA?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> Final review ETA?


CPU blocks don't take much time now that I have done it so many times. It should be up by the time these are out for retail purchase towards the end of June. I want to wait till I have retail pricing and availability up before I publish this.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> Final review ETA?
> 
> 
> 
> CPU blocks don't take much time now that I have done it so many times. It should be up by the time these are out for retail purchase towards the end of June. I want to wait till I have retail pricing and availability up before I publish this.
Click to expand...

A hint?

I'm in the market for a new block and have koolance rads, would love to have more matching stuff.

EDIT: I just went back and read the preview again, makes me think we're looking a good product here, may seriously have to consider it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> A hint?
> 
> I'm in the market for a new block and have koolance rads, would love to have more matching stuff.


At what? I don't know when exactly they would be available and how much they would cost myself at this point. As such, it's hard to tell if said product is worth it or not









Edit: Typo


----------



## Gilles3000

@geggeg will you be taking a looking a look at the new Phanteks blocks?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> @geggeg will you be taking a looking a look at the new Phanteks blocks?


Your guess is as good as mine. I emailed the Phanteks rep I had worked with last year but haven't heard back yet. To be fair it is Computex time so let's see. At this point, I have confirmation from EK, Watercool, XSPC, Koolance and potentially also Alphacool and Bitspower.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got a couple of new CPU blocks in the house:


Sweet







too bad I'm moving to ek. That ocn-ocd really pushes me to make the blocks the same brand (I have four ek titan-x blocks, six actually







). Review up already?


----------



## VSG

Nah, those aren't even officially announced yet.


----------



## ClairHardesty

Hi, all you all! I am sixty-one years old and have had a PC in front of me since 1983. As you can see, I have heavily prefered function over form on this build but I really admire many of the creations I see here. My system is three years old now and is an ASUS Rampage IV Black with 32GB of G.Skill 2400MHz DDR3, a Core i7-4930K running at 4.2GHz, 2 EVGA GTX 980 SC ACX 2.0 converted to water cooling using XSPC water blocks, a 480 GB SSD boot drive, a 240GB SSD primary data drive, five 3TB SATA drives for mass data storage (mostly pics and video), and three ASUS VG278 27" 3D monitors. I originally built the system with two EVGA GTX 690 graphics cards but when one of the four GPUs failed, EVGA replaced the 690s with 980s under warranty. I run two separate water loops, one for the GPUs and one for the CPU, RAM, PCH, and VRM. Under a long term power limiting graphics stress test, the GPUs top out at 49 degrees C, with the water itself topping out at about 40 degrees.When idle, the GPUs sit only one or two degrees above the water. I also have XSPC backplates which offer considerable extra cooling via thermal pads on the backside of the GPUs, memories, and VRMs. I use EK water blocks on the PCH & VRM, with Bitspower blocks on the CPU & memory. When running Prime95 on all 12 CPU threads, the CPU eventually rises to 70 degrees and the water to 35 degrees with the CPU running at around 150W total power. The PCH and VRM stay within four or five degrees of the water. I run the GPUs in parallel, and the CPU in series with the memories which together are in parallel with the PCH in series with the VRM. I have a Rosewill Lightning 1300W power supply and a CyberPower 2200VA, 1500W UPS. The cooling towers are Swiftech units with integrated pumps and extra Phobya Balancer 450 Reservoirs. Each loop contains just over 1.5 litres of coolant. The tubing is PrimoChill PrimoFlex clear 1/2" ID, the fittings are mostly Monsoon with a few Swiftech ones, including the flow sensors and the quick disconnect fittings which allow breaking down the system for easier moving.

I hope to be able to build another system sometime before I get too old to manage the rigors of custom building and if I get to do that, I will pay more attention to the artistic side which so many of you have clearly already mastered. I have been building my own computers since I hand wired an 8080 based machine in 1976, fresh out of college. I know that it looks like the Antec Twelve Hundred case barfed but the whole system including the massive UPS sits on a 2' by 3' dolly with 9 wheels underneath.

I also have two extra Bitspower CPU blocks, one in each loop, tied together with two 40mm peltier units to allow for heat transfer between the loops, That way, if one loop is overburdened, I can cool it with excess capacity in the other loop. Peltiers are symmetrical so I can send heat from the hotter loop th the cooler one by simply switching the polarity of the applied voltages. I haven't got all of the bugs out of the controls but the concept has been proven and it really does work.


----------



## Frestoinc

oh my, i will need to put a cage on that before my kitty start nibbling those cables.









A proper case that supports 2 loops would be a nice change.


----------



## ClairHardesty

I have thought of getting a second case just for the water towers but then I would have to get another light to read by.


----------



## Bogga

How much have all of you guys spent on your setups? Have you calculated the cost?

I'm afraid to tell anyone how much I've spent already and what I'm about to spend... the funny thing is that if you buy new rims for your car or a new motorcycle noone really cares, they might become interested and ask how many hp or how fast it goes, or the size of the rims. But imagine the reaction if you tell someone that you've spent 5000$ on your computer and they you haven't begun to calculate the peripherals like monitor and such









If I start to count on the stuff I'm going to keep from my current rig it's:

CPU, Mobo, Ram, SSD's, pump and PSU = 1450$

Then I'm buying some new stuff...

GPU's = 1800$
Case = 480$
Water cooling stuff = 1200$

So when all has been counted for I've spent approximately 4930$ on my computer









This is not counting with the loss I'm doing on the parts I recently bought this year and am about to sell


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I've added up a few things in the past because I had customers ask as they were curious (most of my customers know how much I enjoy computers as a hobby), and many of them laugh when they hear about something new coming out and whether I'll be buying it or not...


----------



## ClairHardesty

I have built state of the art computers about every decade since 1983 (specifically, 1983, 1990, 2002, and 2013). The first one, an IBM PC with a 4.77Mhz CPU, 640KB of RAM, two 5' 360KB floppy drives, and a 16 color 640x480 monitor ran $4000. The last three have each been right around $10,000 but each one orders of magnitude better than the one before. When you figure in inflation, each one has been far cheaper than the one before and far, far more powerful. I have built a lot of far less expensive systems along the way (for friends and family) but when I build mine, I go all out and all in.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> How much have all of you guys spent on your setups? Have you calculated the cost?
> 
> I'm afraid to tell anyone how much I've spent already and what I'm about to spend... the funny thing is that if you buy new rims for your car or a new motorcycle noone really cares, they might become interested and ask how many hp or how fast it goes, or the size of the rims. But imagine the reaction if you tell someone that you've spent 5000$ on your computer and they you haven't begun to calculate the peripherals like monitor and such
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I start to count on the stuff I'm going to keep from my current rig it's:
> 
> CPU, Mobo, Ram, SSD's, pump and PSU = 1450$
> 
> Then I'm buying some new stuff...
> 
> GPU's = 1800$
> Case = 480$
> Water cooling stuff = 1200$
> 
> So when all has been counted for I've spent approximately 4930$ on my computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not counting with the loss I'm doing on the parts I recently bought this year and am about to sell


i have several over 10k at this point . and tbh with current prices. i can see that inflating frankly


----------



## Ironsmack

*A lot*.

Hence its my only expensive hobby. I gave up on cars years ago.

Can't take care of my kids with this + cars.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Your guess is as good as mine. I emailed the Phanteks rep I had worked with last year but haven't heard back yet. To be fair it is Computex time so let's see. At this point, I have confirmation from EK, Watercool, XSPC, Koolance and potentially also Alphacool and Bitspower.


Its always cool anytime I see Koolance hardware. Theyre headquarted just about 20 minutes by car from where I live, so Ive actually gone and picked up tons of stuff from them in person, especially when I first got interested in watercooling.

I just wish they would expand their line of products just a little bit, like with more common base components, like fittings. They somewhat recently released an SSD waterblock, which I found really odd and couldn't envision too many people purchasing.... They have a small bit of products like that that seem peculiar....


----------



## Freakn

Careful dude, you gotta use the spoiler tags or well i can't say what'll happen


Spoiler: Careful Wermad



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> too bad I'm moving to ek. That ocn-ocd really pushes me to make the blocks the same brand (I have four ek titan-x blocks, six actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Review up already?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Its always cool anytime I see Koolance hardware. Theyre headquarted just about 20 minutes by car from where I live, so Ive actually gone and picked up tons of stuff from them in person, especially when I first got interested in watercooling.
> 
> I just wish they would expand their line of products just a little bit, like with more common base components, like fittings. They somewhat recently released an SSD waterblock, which I found really odd and couldn't envision too many people purchasing.... They have a small bit of products like that that seem peculiar....


I used to drive by their place in Auburn all the time, I never stopped and went in though.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I used to drive by their place in Auburn all the time, I never stopped and went in though.


I used to be stationed in Everett, WA. Needed a second rad quickly so dropped by and picked one up. Nice place and people there.


----------



## ruffhi

I've seen some builds that change LED colors based on temp. I've seen some discussion about changing coolant color based on temp. Here is another option ... change the paint design of your build based on temp ... Thermo-Chromatic Combat Action Harley.


----------



## sdmf74

So no HDD/SSD geniuses in here?
Im still trying to figure out how in s.m.a.r..t my samsung 850 pro is reading 1 in the worst value cloumn for wear leveling.
If current is 99 (new drive) it couldnt have ever been 1 so why would it report that? Here is the definiiton for worst value.



Samsung had no answer for me either


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClairHardesty*


I whish there were more builds like this. I love it!
That's just how science looks like to me


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClairHardesty*
> 
> I have thought of getting a second case just for the water towers but then I would have to get another light to read by.


You've got a lot going on there, and some good engineering in that build.









It would be nice to put everything into a suitable case.
Imo one of CaseLabs cases could be a good home for it!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Your guess is as good as mine. I emailed the Phanteks rep I had worked with last year but haven't heard back yet. To be fair it is Computex time so let's see. At this point, I have confirmation from EK, Watercool, XSPC, Koolance and potentially also Alphacool and Bitspower.


Seems like you'll be quite busy, can wait to see the reviews rolling out.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClairHardesty*
> 
> I have thought of getting a second case just for the water towers but then I would have to get another light to read by.


That's some serious engineering you've got cooling that PC







.

Maybe a massive scratch built PC would satisfy the itch to build a custom case as you'd like to do and be made large enough to fit all the cooling. An LED strip behind the monitor can add bling and act as your ambient reading light







.

Would be keen to see the result of your demonstration of function and newfound attention to form







.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> So no HDD/SSD geniuses in here?
> Im still trying to figure out how in s.m.a.r..t my samsung 850 pro is reading 1 in the worst value cloumn for wear leveling.
> If current is 99 (new drive) it couldnt have ever been 1 so why would it report that? Here is the definiiton for worst value.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung had no answer for me either


Have you water cooled the SSD?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> How much have all of you guys spent on your setups? Have you calculated the cost?
> If I start to count on the stuff I'm going to keep from my current rig it's:
> 
> CPU, Mobo, Ram, SSD's, pump and PSU = 1450$
> 
> Then I'm buying some new stuff...
> 
> GPU's = 1800$
> Case = 480$
> Water cooling stuff = 1200$
> 
> So when all has been counted for I've spent approximately 4930$ on my computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not counting with the loss I'm doing on the parts I recently bought this year and am about to sell


O, I get wacky reactions just telling peeps around here in AL what I spent on computer parts. Most think I am nuts enough for having more than 500+ bucks in my computer. They really have a jaw drop when I tell them I have more money in the rigs than my motorcycle.







My fav thing though was saying I had more money in them than my Pathfinder, but no longer have the Pathfinder anymore (I nab that for 2 grand. I told peeps I be tight with money).

Though, I have less in these two Tis than you. Nab them both with backplate and water blocks for 1250 bucks a few months back.








Hmmm, my case 200 bucks, but I hacked this Haf X up. Still not finish hacking it up. The CPU bought 2nd hand. The rest of parts I nabbed on sale. Mobo nabbed during a Cyber Monday sale and the SSD was a open box on Amazon. If I can save bucks here and there I do it.

Considering this is not my most expensive hobby. Art supplies makes most around me go what the f.







I have drop over 300+ on one canvas alone. Don't start on markers or oil paint, that stuff is not cheap. Reason I miss the Aaron Brothers store in Cali, I use to get 50% coupons all the time. Though, funny thing when my card got locked on me because the bank thought buying 600+ in art stuff was wacky or something.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ok! AURORA UPDATE!!

Aurora was put in loop on 8/20/15

I just Removed it on 6/2/16 (Just shy of a Year)

Particles were all still present, but the color (Probably from not flushing the Rad)


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok! AURORA UPDATE!!
> 
> Aurora was put in loop on 8/20/15
> 
> I just Removed it on 6/2/16 (Just shy of a Year)
> 
> Particles were all still present, but the color (Probably from not flushing the Rad)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmmm. I know the color is supposed to be red, but that purple is quite pretty.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well good to see it lasted a year in an everyday use scenario. And yeah my X1 started to change to a purple towards the end of the year


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Hmmmm. I know the color is supposed to be red, but that purple is quite pretty.


It really was, A couple months back, I added less than 500ml of Distilled and it kicked up a ton of aurora particles. Then the colour started changing again to purple. I was diggin it, but then it was really dark purple.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well good to see it lasted a year in an everyday use scenario. And yeah my X1 started to change to a purple towards the end of the year


The goal was to see if the particles would stay in the loop the whole time and they did. Quite impressed.

TCO


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> So no HDD/SSD geniuses in here?
> Im still trying to figure out how in s.m.a.r..t my samsung 850 pro is reading 1 in the worst value cloumn for wear leveling.
> If current is 99 (new drive) it couldnt have ever been 1 so why would it report that? Here is the definiiton for worst value.
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung had no answer for me either


run a different diagnostic tool for the smart data, something like CrystalDiskInfo and see if it comes up with the same numbers. I mean that's just weird. I am more than a dozen of those drives and nothing like that has ever happened to me in fact I've rarely ever seen them degrade in the slightest.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> run a different diagnostic tool for the smart data, something like CrystalDiskInfo and see if it comes up with the same numbers. I mean that's just weird. I am more than a dozen of those drives and nothing like that has ever happened to me in fact I've rarely ever seen them degrade in the slightest.


Yeah that is what is so curious, I have found many many ssd screenshots of smart online and not one has shown a different number for current and worse fields, even those that have been torture tested.
crystal disk info shows the same. Its just this one 850 pro, my other samsungs dont do it.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok! AURORA UPDATE!!
> 
> Aurora was put in loop on 8/20/15
> 
> I just Removed it on 6/2/16 (Just shy of a Year)
> 
> Particles were all still present, but the color (Probably from not flushing the Rad)


What fittings are you using? Bitspower?

Looks pretty cool, nice Noiseblocker fan in the back! I got 8 of them, but DHL lost the package so they are sending 8 new


----------



## axipher

So some small progress on my custom block for my Nitro 380X Test fitted the 3D printed block and everything lines up perfectly with 0.5 mm spacing, the GPU die section almost perfectly touches, and the VRM section is at 1 mm space so that can be dropped down a little bit. Trying to find a decent priced option for milling the copper plate. I can do the Acrylic plate no problem myself.

So while waiting on that, working on a design for my next tech bench style case with Spotswood, my early CAD markups are looking like this:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What fittings are you using? Bitspower?
> 
> Looks pretty cool, nice Noiseblocker fan in the back! I got 8 of them, but DHL lost the package so they are sending 8 new


Yes, I use C48 bitspower for the attachment to the Flow Meter, and C47s most everywhere else. from the Bottom of the Res to the pump I have soft tubing ( 3/8 x 1/2") with XSPC compression straight fittings.



S3 buildlog is in Siggy. But the Color Change was pretty Drastic.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> https://forum.inwin-style.com/forum/in-win-events/-2016-mod-in-taiwan/1882-vote-here-for-your-favorite
> 
> Get them votes in!


BSMods

or

Running with Scissors.

Descisions descisions.









I went with the latter since BS tends to moddovate where RwS tends to Innovate.







lulz

Not that my lowly vote will make much of a difference. Babewatch seems to be running away with the Bitters.









On amount spent...

Spent too much to cotemplate. I would likely weep if/when I add it all up with the shipping included.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

I hear you guys wanted EK Vulture cases? No worries, Tt has you covered (7:38 in). Except, with steel instead of aluminum and a standard ATX layout so you don't get to see the GPU blocks through that curved window panel









That video also has ID Cooling's take on In Win's frame cases, except these actually have threaded ports to have coolant flow through. Now you get the pleasure of having a maze of coolant with no marked flow direction as you attempt what you think is a series flow from one component to another through the case, but are never sure. But wait, there's more.. Is that aluminum piping used to construct the frame? Is it brass that has been welded together? No one knows, or cares to ask.


----------



## wermad

Lol









You actually there btw?

Thought about going budget-friendly and down-sizing for my next case/build. But then i saw moonlightmods.com and my old dream of owning an ldr double 29 are still alive! Or maybe wait for TT similar case...


----------



## VSG

Nah, I am nowhere near Computex. The next event I will get the chance to go is Quakecon.

Moonlight Mods is by the kids of the estwhile Danger Den's main operator. I don't think anything has happened in terms of an actual product release though.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I hear you guys wanted EK Vulture cases? No worries, Tt has you covered (7:38 in). Except, with steel instead of aluminum and a standard ATX layout so you don't get to see the GPU blocks through that curved window panel


How long are they going to get away with crap like this? "This is actually 'Project 27' because we haven't come up with an official name for it yet." Why not just call it "Buzzard?"


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> How long are they going to get away with crap like this? "This is actually 'Project 27' because we haven't come up with an official name for it yet." Why not just call it "Buzzard?"


Well I don't think there is anything legally wrong here with this or the W/WP series of cases. As such, there is not much that other companies can do. It falls on the consumer again.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well I don't think there is anything legally wrong here with this or the W/WP series of cases. As such, there is not much that other companies can do. It falls on the consumer again.


I don't mean to say that it's a legal problem, but instead an ethical one. I'm a bit tired of them taking these designs and marketing them as their own. Hell, if someone at TT said "Yeah, our product X took inspiration from Company Y's product,"

I don't know that I'd have such a strong opinion on it, but the way they've historically handled the PR around this stuff ("Oh no, these are 100% in-house designs, how dare you accuse us of taking inspiration or stealing. Our design team works very hard to come up with this stuff!") feels a bit insulting.

Edit: Yeah, this is basically OT and I know this conversation has been had over and over again about the TT and Barrow stuff. I apologize for the derailment. Also fixed my editing.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hear you guys wanted EK Vulture cases? No worries, Tt has you covered (7:38 in). Except, with steel instead of aluminum and a standard ATX layout so you don't get to see the GPU blocks through that curved window panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That video also has ID Cooling's take on In Win's frame cases, except these actually have threaded ports to have coolant flow through. Now you get the pleasure of having a maze of coolant with no marked flow direction as you attempt what you think is a series flow from one component to another through the case, but are never sure. But wait, there's more.. Is that aluminum piping used to construct the frame? Is it brass that has been welded together? No one knows, or cares to ask.


Holy crap, what a blatant ripoff! You know, for me personally, seeing them rip other manufacturers off motivates me to save up that little (or lot) extra to buy from those who did it first.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hear you guys wanted EK Vulture cases? No worries, Tt has you covered (7:38 in). Except, with steel instead of aluminum and a standard ATX layout so you don't get to see the GPU blocks through that curved window panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That video also has ID Cooling's take on In Win's frame cases, except these actually have threaded ports to have coolant flow through. Now you get the pleasure of having a maze of coolant with no marked flow direction as you attempt what you think is a series flow from one component to another through the case, but are never sure. But wait, there's more.. Is that aluminum piping used to construct the frame? Is it brass that has been welded together? No one knows, or cares to ask.


I was watching it earlier and i thought about posting it here. But i already commented on it the video (unless they deleted it). I thought there were a few cases (mainly the wall mounted one) that it looked good. Even the 3D printed wasn't bad.

The pass through light on their tubing was neat.

But as soon as they went in their "secret room", i knew they ripped off EK case.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Holy crap, what a blatant ripoff! You know, for me personally, seeing them rip other manufacturers off motivates me to save up that little (or lot) extra to buy from those who did it first.












I Feel the same, It's a nice thought buying something at a lower cost, then you realize that someone actually came up with the idea before them and has the real cost associated with constructing a truly beautiful product.

I would pay more for the latter and support a company that essentially could come up with yet another great Case









TCO


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Holy crap, what a blatant ripoff! You know, for me personally, seeing them rip other manufacturers off motivates me to save up that little (or lot) extra to buy from those who did it first.


Copying cases isnt a new thing. Lots of companies do it in the Asia Region.

With that being said, and this is my personal opinion, I dislike a company that has a design/product team, continue to "steal" others companies designs. It proves to me that they have no moral compass at all.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Copying cases isnt a new thing. Lots of companies do it in the Asia Region.
> 
> With that being said, and this is my personal opinion, I dislike *a company that has a design/product team*, continue to "steal" others companies designs. It proves to me that they have no moral compass at all.


This is what irks me the most. They have shown they can make some really nice and more or less original cases, including this time too.


----------



## bigboy678

please let us not go down this topic yet again. if you dont like the way a company does something dont buy their product.


----------



## VSG

On a lighter note, I must thank AMD. There has been a massive surge in views of my XSPC RX 480 radiator review this week due to people just searching "RX 480"


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> On a lighter note, I must thank AMD. There has been a massive surge in views of my XSPC RX 480 radiator review this week due to people just searching "RX 480"










Man, I really hope the RX 480 and Zen are as good as AMD says they'll be. I've had a really hard time trusting AMD's marketing team since Bulldozer dropped back in '11. If they do end up being good, I might just make myself a rig from Team Red again.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Feel the same, It's a nice thought buying something at a lower cost, then you realize that someone actually came up with the idea before them and has the real cost associated with constructing a truly beautiful product.
> 
> I would pay more for the latter and support a company that essentially could come up with yet another great Case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Hear, hear!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Copying cases isnt a new thing. Lots of companies do it in the Asia Region.
> 
> With that being said, and this is my personal opinion, I dislike a company that has a design/product team, continue to "steal" others companies designs. It proves to me that they have no moral compass at all.


Oh, of course, I'm not naive enough to think they're the only ones doing it. It happens in any industry really, and it seems like the cream typically rises to the top based on the quality of product, Caselabs and EK in this case (even though the Vulture wasn't widely distributed). It's just annoying to see someone try to milk others' ideas for a couple of bucks because they're one of the biggest kids on the playground. Being in the architecture industry, I'm plenty accustomed to the borrowing of design concepts and ideas, but believe it's only tolerable when those concepts and ideas are used as a platform to advance it further.

Edit: Sorry for getting off topic. That was my first venting session on the forums in 4+ years, so give me a pass


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Hear, hear!
> Oh, of course, I'm not naive enough to think they're the only ones doing it. It happens in any industry really, and it seems like the cream typically rises to the top based on the quality of product, Caselabs and EK in this case (even though the Vulture wasn't widely distributed). It's just annoying to see someone try to milk others' ideas for a couple of bucks because they're one of the biggest kids on the playground. Being in the architecture industry, I'm plenty accustomed to the borrowing of design concepts and ideas, but believe it's only tolerable when those concepts and ideas are used as a platform to advance it further.
> 
> Edit: Sorry for getting off topic. That was my first venting session on the forums in 4+ years, so give me a pass


TT isnt a Big Player anymore.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> TT isnt a Big Player anymore.


Newegg says otherwise. Enthusiasts mostly despise TT and I'm in that camp but their cases offer solid value and good features, so Joe Shmo looking to build a system will just see a good cheap option.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Newegg says otherwise. Enthusiasts mostly despise TT and I'm in that camp but their cases offer solid value and good features, so Joe Shmo looking to build a system will just see a good cheap option.


Selling rates and analytics , say something 100% different.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I hear you guys wanted EK Vulture cases? No worries, Tt has you covered (7:38 in). Except, with steel instead of aluminum and a standard ATX layout so you don't get to see the GPU blocks through that curved window panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long are they going to get away with crap like this? "This is actually 'Project 27' because we haven't come up with an official name for it yet." Why not just call it "Buzzard?"
Click to expand...

So long as people couldn't give a crap and continue to buy their gear.

Also copied Monsoon's light port angle fittings. If not the actual design(still look like EK fittings), the concept. Lit tubing is nothing new guys(Tt).









Dangerously close to soapbox but yeah...







lulz

Oh and my Mother, doesn't run in the Enthusiast circle. She bought *one* Tt case back in 2012 iirc, the power button broke and she decided one was enough and went Cooler Master HAF922. At least if something breaks on one of their cases, you can get a replacement fairly easily.









~Ceadder


----------



## 0ldChicken

Is the vulture actually available for sale? I've never found it anywhere for any price in the us. I can't hate on someone for selling something that no one else will


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Is the vulture actually available for sale? I've never found it anywhere for any price in the us. I can't hate on someone for selling something that no one else will


I can. They need to fire their entire case engineering staff at this point because those fools are overpaid imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Is the vulture actually available for sale? I've never found it anywhere for any price in the us. I can't hate on someone for selling something that no one else will


I don't think EK ever brought the Vulture to market. There's a problem with the TT case though (apart from the whole design-stealing bit), and that's that it takes away a lot of what made the Vulcan really cool design-wise. The layout (which is why the window was wrap-around in the first place) is wrong, the size is wrong, the material is wrong, and the build quality is probably dreadful in comparison.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I can. They need to fire their entire case engineering staff at this point because those fools are overpaid imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


everyone knows that you can haha. I definitely don't admire it, and will probably never buy one for various reasons. Dat vulture thou.... I'm afraid i could never do it justice









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> I don't think EK ever brought the Vulture to market. There's a problem with the TT case though (apart from the whole design-stealing bit), and that's that it takes away a lot of what made the Vulcan really cool (design-wise).


that is completely true, im a big fan of inverted mobo so that is definitely a deal breaker by itself as far as I'm concerned.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hear you guys wanted EK Vulture cases? No worries, Tt has you covered (7:38 in). Except, with steel instead of aluminum and a standard ATX layout so you don't get to see the GPU blocks through that curved window panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That video also has ID Cooling's take on In Win's frame cases, except these actually have threaded ports to have coolant flow through. Now you get the pleasure of having a maze of coolant with no marked flow direction as you attempt what you think is a series flow from one component to another through the case, but are never sure. But wait, there's more.. Is that aluminum piping used to construct the frame? Is it brass that has been welded together? No one knows, or cares to ask.


no claims if it is true but according to this article this is Al ( id cooling cases. ) ( also the frams look anodized, which if done right would make it "ok" to have in a water cooling loop - i would prefer having it 100% copper tubing inside however and brass ports .... but another method would be AL fittings/rads/block/ with some of the lower power stuff would be good imo- assuming everything was AL - again not enthusiast class stuff but a 4 core would do well on AL imo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Holy crap, what a blatant ripoff! You know, for me personally, seeing them rip other manufacturers off motivates me to save up that little (or lot) extra to buy from those who did it first.
> 
> 
> 
> Copying cases isnt a new thing. Lots of companies do it in the Asia Region.
> 
> With that being said, and this is my personal opinion, I dislike a company that has a design/product team, continue to "steal" others companies designs. It proves to me that they have no moral compass at all.
Click to expand...

this is why i want and WILL buy cases and accessories from NZXT. they are real and honest, i WILL NOT buy from corsair because of their views that people were wrong to even bring this up about TT coping stuffs


----------



## realtomatoes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is why i want and WILL buy cases and accessories from NZXT. they are real and honest, i WILL NOT buy from corsair because of their views that people were wrong to even bring this up about TT coping stuffs


not a fan of corsair, i think they're well-marketed and overpriced products.
when did corsair say that?


----------



## Mega Man

when CL brought up the coping--- the next event, idr maybe computex last year or pdxlan .....


----------



## Gabrielzm

no comments about that "new" case from TT....









On a positive note just got this in my email. Very interesting and with lots of potential for our mods. A hand bendable aluminum led profile:

https://www.marcled.com/products/693-02-1m-1000mm-bendable-aluminium-led-profile-easy-bend-no-tooling-required-9523456789004.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> no comments about that "new" case from TT....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a positive note just got this in my email. Very interesting and with lots of potential for our mods. A hand bendable aluminum led profile:
> 
> https://www.marcled.com/products/693-02-1m-1000mm-bendable-aluminium-led-profile-easy-bend-no-tooling-required-9523456789004.html


Thats pretty wicked Gabe! Thanks for sharing that.

TCO


----------



## guitarhero23

Way overpriced but....they are sexy.....




Join the fun


----------



## willemdoom

He guys whats are opinions on Dimastech test benches? I would like to hear them before indulging in buying one. Thanks in advance


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> He guys whats are opinions on Dimastech test benches? I would like to hear them before indulging in buying one. Thanks in advance


What I have "heard" is they could be made a tad better, maybe "Flimsy" was the word ?

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Congrats @B NEGATIVE

What case you picking out?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> He guys whats are opinions on Dimastech test benches? I would like to hear them before indulging in buying one. Thanks in advance


I have 3 of them, the Mini, Easy V3, and the Easy XL.

I like all of them a ton more than the big Phobya Aluminum one that I have.

The issue with the Dimastechs, is that you can't find them any more . . . at least in the states . . .

I can't speak about availability in the rest of the world though . . .

The lack of them on fleabay, kinda suggests that they just aren't around anywhere anymore though.

Last time I went looking for an Easy V3, all that were in stock anywhere were a few of the tiny itx Nanos.

It was just by luck that I happened on the Easy V3 in the OCN marketplace just recently.

If you found one to buy, and it's not one of the older V2's or V2.5's, it's a hard test bench to beat.

Darlene


----------



## khemist

I just sold my Dimastech easy v3 i never got around to using but i posted it to the wrong address and it's gone missing, doubt i will be seeing it again... bit of a waste.

You can still find them in the UK, OCUK have some at the minute. https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search?sSearch=dimastech


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I really want to build a Reverse Atx at some point in my life.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's worth it


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I really want to build a Reverse Atx at some point in my life.
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's worth it


I had a 90-degree ATX build in a SilverStone FT02 for a while. The temperatures were phenomenal for air cooling. I had an i5 2500K with a Noctua NH-D14, and two XFX 6950's. When gaming the cards wouldn't get above 50C. It was awesome.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I really want to build a Reverse Atx at some point in my life.
> 
> TCO


Are you talking about a lazy man's R-ATX, like in a Caselabs, where all you have to do is assemble it reverse ATX,

Or a _real_ reverse ATX build, where you have to mod a normal case to reverse it . . . . .

And then create a build in it . . . .


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I suppose I could go either way... If the Case was the One I really Wanted.

Though that lazy man one you mentioned could be pretty appealing. I almost feel like your trying to tell me something Diva?









If I had a case that I had to convert to reverse atx, are you offering for me to bring it over, I don't know, maybe your place... and Do some "Construction" ?









TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I suppose I could go either way... If the Case was the One I really Wanted.
> 
> Though that lazy man one you mentioned could be pretty appealing. I almost feel like your trying to tell me something Diva?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I had a case that I had to convert to reverse atx, are you offering for me to bring it over, I don't know, maybe your place... and Do some "Construction" ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You never know what you might learn from a cougar these days . . . .









The SM8 is ambidextrous, right out of the box . . . you can assemble it ATX or R-ATX . . . . . no change in the actual parts, just how it's assembled.

That's about as lazy as it can get, but immensely practical if you need your machine on the left side of the desk for example, but might get a new cubicle/office where you need it on the right side.

The bigger cases, of course, are orientation specific, and need new additional chassis parts to reverse them.

To me, building a reverse atx build means modding a normal case that never came in reverse orientation, so that you can do a build in it that's flipped from what you would normally see in that case.

I find the reward comes from engineering thru the impasses, so that it looks like it came stock in reverse form, and finding ways to add liquid cooling where it wasn't originally a priority in the design.

Darlene


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have 3 of them, the Mini, Easy V3, and the Easy XL.
> 
> I like all of them a ton more than the big Phobya Aluminum one that I have.
> 
> The issue with the Dimastechs, is that you can't find them any more . . . at least in the states . . .
> 
> I can't speak about availability in the rest of the world though . . .
> 
> The lack of them on fleabay, kinda suggests that they just aren't around anywhere anymore though.
> 
> Last time I went looking for an Easy V3, all that were in stock anywhere were a few of the tiny itx Nanos.
> 
> It was just by luck that I happened on the Easy V3 in the OCN marketplace just recently.
> 
> If you found one to buy, and it's not one of the older V2's or V2.5's, it's a hard test bench to beat.
> 
> Darlene


yea, the one I want isn´t in stock either on highflow but is in stock on their site, but i read bad stories about ordering from their site, ill just wait...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have 3 of them, the Mini, Easy V3, and the Easy XL.
> 
> I like all of them a ton more than the big Phobya Aluminum one that I have.
> 
> The issue with the Dimastechs, is that you can't find them any more . . . at least in the states . . .
> 
> I can't speak about availability in the rest of the world though . . .
> 
> The lack of them on fleabay, kinda suggests that they just aren't around anywhere anymore though.
> 
> Last time I went looking for an Easy V3, all that were in stock anywhere were a few of the tiny itx Nanos.
> 
> It was just by luck that I happened on the Easy V3 in the OCN marketplace just recently.
> 
> If you found one to buy, and it's not one of the older V2's or V2.5's, it's a hard test bench to beat.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> yea, the one I want isn´t in stock either on highflow but is in stock on their site, but i read bad stories about ordering from their site, ill just wait...
Click to expand...

Yea, I've heard about incredibly long waits when ordering . . . when they were here at PPCs, it was only a few days before they shipped.

The guy I just got the V3 from said it took so long to come, that he finished the build with another case before it got there.

I was lucky enough to get the USB 3 front panel module with mine as well, all virtually new in the original box.


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yea, I've heard about incredibly long waits when ordering . . . when they were here at PPCs, it was only a few days before they shipped.
> 
> The guy I just got the V3 from said it took so long to come, that he finished the build with another case before it got there.
> 
> I was lucky enough to get the USB 3 front panel module with mine as well, all virtually new in the original box.


Luckily I have the time and otherwise Spotswood is also an option, but more expensive and less pretty, well see


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Congrats @B NEGATIVE
> 
> What case you picking out?


I went for the D Frame v2.

Got a 1080,980ti and the new x99 strix board too.

Best bit? My case I going into production and I'm off to Las Vegas for 2017 CES!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You never know what you might learn from a cougar these days . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The SM8 is ambidextrous, right out of the box . . . you can assemble it ATX or R-ATX . . . . . no change in the actual parts, just how it's assembled.
> 
> That's about as lazy as it can get, but immensely practical if you need your machine on the left side of the desk for example, but might get a new cubicle/office where you need it on the right side.
> 
> The bigger cases, of course, are orientation specific, and need new additional chassis parts to reverse them.
> 
> To me, building a reverse atx build means modding a normal case that never came in reverse orientation, so that you can do a build in it that's flipped from what you would normally see in that case.
> 
> I find the reward comes from engineering thru the impasses, so that it looks like it came stock in reverse form, and finding ways to add liquid cooling where it wasn't originally a priority in the design.
> 
> Darlene


Well Tickle me Pink







Wasn't expecting that first line of response









I was aware of the SM8 (Naturally, Being The Caselabs One and all) but I was thinking different, similar to the bottom of your response.

Taking a case and trying to change multiple things (Configuration, placement of gpu's and how they would acutally mount to the case etc)

So I am with you on that one. I have tools at my disposal, just the measurements would be the hardest part









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I went for the D Frame v2.
> 
> Got a 1080,980ti and the new x99 strix board too.
> 
> Best bit? My case I going into production and I'm off to Las Vegas for 2017 CES!


Congrats B Neg! Good stuff to hear









TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I went for the D Frame v2.
> 
> Got a 1080,980ti and the new x99 strix board too.
> 
> Best bit? My case I going into production and I'm off to Las Vegas for 2017 CES!


Congrats. That last bit especially is tremendous!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Congrats @B NEGATIVE
> 
> What case you picking out?
> 
> 
> 
> I went for the D Frame v2.
> 
> Got a 1080,980ti and the new x99 strix board too.
> 
> Best bit? My case I going into production and I'm off to Las Vegas for 2017 CES!
Click to expand...

Awesome!!!!

Congrats!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I went for the D Frame v2.
> 
> Got a 1080,980ti and the new x99 strix board too.
> 
> Best bit? My case I going into production and I'm off to Las Vegas for 2017 CES!


do you ever not win? send me some of that mojo when you get a chance to bottle it up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> do you ever not win? send me some of that mojo when you get a chance to bottle it up.


You get out what you put in,like most things. Long hours and constant expansion of your skills coupled with a willingness for work will always get you results,this applies to everything in life. It can take a while but it does happen.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I just sold my Dimastech easy v3 i never got around to using but i posted it to the wrong address and it's gone missing, doubt i will be seeing it again... bit of a waste.
> 
> You can still find them in the UK, OCUK have some at the minute. https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search?sSearch=dimastech


This is why I got you to confirm your details twice and then I triple checked my details and your payment address, I kid you not... five times.


----------



## Ceadderman

My Mod will be Reverse ATX. Thos GPU heatsinks I had milled will look ubersmexy up top.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> This is why I got you to confirm your details twice and then I triple checked my details and your payment address, I kid you not... five times.


always a better than great idea. nothing like being out money because of being in a hurry and being 1 number/letter off.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> do you ever not win? send me some of that mojo when you get a chance to bottle it up.
> 
> 
> 
> You get out what you put in,like most things. Long hours and constant expansion of your skills coupled with a willingness for work will always get you results,this applies to everything in life. It can take a while but it does happen.
Click to expand...

Very few have put in the kind of hours you and other elite modders have. Just from the many hours I've put in, I'd say probably 4x that for someone in your position. There's a reason why you guys are renowned in the industry.

I've meaning to mod this Power Mac G5 I have, but haven't had the time/money/desire working two jobs and trying to move to another state (and get engaged).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Very few have put in the kind of hours you and other elite modders have. Just from the many hours I've put in, I'd say probably 4x that for someone in your position. There's a reason why you guys are renowned in the industry.
> 
> I've meaning to mod this Power Mac G5 I have, but haven't had the time/money/desire working two jobs and trying to move to another state (and get engaged).


I need to now,so much so that giving up my day job could become a reality...

Which will be handy,especially when Jim sends me Shipping Confirmed emails,looking forward to getting the bullet for once!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> always a better than great idea. nothing like being out money because of being in a hurry and being 1 number/letter off.


I always do it, with everything when money or items are changing hands, I'm also "that guy" who sends you your item overly secure, tracked and normally boxed with plenty of padding then another box to protect that box from damage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I need to now,so much so that giving up my day job could become a reality...
> 
> Which will be handy,especially when Jim sends me Shipping Confirmed emails,looking forward to getting the bullet for once!


I wish you the best of luck, you seem a great guy to me, always answered the most idiotic of questions I've asked in PM. Glad to see a fellow Brit make their name in their preferred industry. Congrats on the case being mass produced, that is one of my dreams right there.


----------



## taowulf

On my desk, Reverse ATX is the only way to fly. My system has actually been reverse ATX for about 9 years now...I know, I have had the case forever.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I went for the D Frame v2.
> 
> Got a 1080,980ti and the new x99 strix board too.
> 
> Best bit? My case I going into production and I'm off to Las Vegas for 2017 CES!


That is awesome! You got my honest online vote







kun mod's was nice, but could they possibly get any airflow with that rad RIGHT NEXT to the glass? I hope I can be like you when I grow up! (this is funny because I'm 30)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> On my desk, Reverse ATX is the only way to fly. My system has actually been reverse ATX for about 9 years now...I know, I have had the case forever.


I've been in the same boat for a couple years and have tried a few things, although I'm experimenting with a new idea (in progress) and I'm loving it!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I am in limbo on reviving my Corsair C70 R.ATX but only time will tell on that one.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I went for the D Frame v2.
> 
> Got a 1080,980ti and the new x99 strix board too.
> 
> Best bit? My case I going into production and I'm off to Las Vegas for 2017 CES!


Nice!

I got to get on that BNEG level so I can get some nice swag.


----------



## Mega Man

Congrats b


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> yea, the one I want isn´t in stock either on highflow but is in stock on their site, but i read bad stories about ordering from their site, ill just wait...


I was in exact the same boat regarding a Dimastech bench at highflow,

You can make an account on their forum and ask for products to be added to the website. It's really nice.

Recently I asked for kingpingcooling CPU/gpu pots for example, and they jumped right into getting contact with the manufacturer.


----------



## BabylonDown

Hey guys. Just finished building my watercooled PC that took two years of putzing around. I've got two 290x's with EK blocks. I got all the bubbles out last night, but noticed a small leak from the 2nd gpu's EK Link. It was late and I didn't want to tear the build apart to fix the leak and figured ide do it this morning. I turn the power on to see the leak again and there is nothing. It's been over an hour.

Is it possible that the link dried up and resealed itself?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Hey guys. Just finished building my watercooled PC that took two years of putzing around. I've got two 290x's with EK blocks. I got all the bubbles out last night, but noticed a small leak from the 2nd gpu's EK Link. It was late and I didn't want to tear the build apart to fix the leak and figured ide do it this morning. I turn the power on to see the leak again and there is nothing. It's been over an hour.
> 
> Is it possible that the link dried up and resealed itself?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


A leak is a leak and to my knowledge "Won't Reseal itself"

I would easily diagnose the problem (Find the leak) tighten your fittings and tubing again, and leak test for 8 hours.

I have a ton of experience with water, Going everywhere, and retesting.









TCO

EDIT: And most in here acutally "Air test" with an air pressure gauge, instead of water.


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A leak is a leak and to my knowledge "Won't Reseal itself"
> 
> I would easily diagnose the problem (Find the leak) tighten your fittings and tubing again, and leak test for 8 hours.
> 
> I have a ton of experience with water, Going everywhere, and retesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: And most in here acutally "Air test" with an air pressure gauge, instead of water.


The leak was coming from both sides of the EK link. If I tightened it more it would leak more. I backed off the three link screws last night before bed. Powered her on and now its been about 2 hours and no sign of a leak. Ill keep an eye on it before I power on the whole system.

The good news is, from where its leaking it cant affect any of the main components.. In hindsight I probably should have put in a drain valve... lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Edit: ^likely pinched its orings flat.









Could be at the tube(if it hadn't warmed up yet) in a fitting. If the seal hadn't purged of water(if any made it between the tube and the barb) see if you can tighten the fitting. If it's at the block side of things make sure the top is tight to the block but not so tight that it pinches the oring flat.









So yeah it's possible depending on how it was sealed I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> The leak was coming from both sides of the EK link. If I tightened it more it would leak more. I backed off the three link screws last night before bed. Powered her on and now its been about 2 hours and no sign of a leak. Ill keep an eye on it before I power on the whole system.
> 
> The good news is, from where its leaking it cant affect any of the main components.. In hindsight I probably should have put in a drain valve... lol


Link to install Notes

I am "guessing" that there is an O ring inbetween the link bridge and the card



And tightening and loosening the screws are just putting/releasing pressure on the O ring between the bridge and the block...

It's your call.

TCO


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Link to install Notes
> 
> I am "guessing" that there is an O ring inbetween the link bridge and the card
> 
> 
> 
> And tightening and loosening the screws are just putting/releasing pressure on the O ring between the bridge and the block...
> 
> It's your call.
> 
> TCO


Yes. There are two orings per bridge.

Ill keep an eye on it until tonight. If I see any sign of leaking ill tear it apart and check everything over again.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> Yes. There are two orings per bridge.
> 
> Ill keep an eye on it until tonight. If I see any sign of leaking ill tear it apart and check everything over again.


It's whatever you feel comfortable with, that's for sure. The Fact there was a leak to begin with though... that's what concerns me.

I don't understand how the bridge could have been too tight, you know? If the only thing you are doing is compressing the O ring, how would liquid get past it?

So by loosening it, you were able to negate the leak? That just doesn't meld with me.

But I am no expert. That is one thing I am positive about.

TCO


----------



## realtomatoes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A leak is a leak and to my knowledge "Won't Reseal itself"
> 
> I would easily diagnose the problem (Find the leak) tighten your fittings and tubing again, and leak test for 8 hours.
> 
> I have a ton of experience with water, Going everywhere, and retesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: And most in here acutally "Air test" with an air pressure gauge, instead of water.


air test? got a guide on how that' done?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *realtomatoes*
> 
> air test? got a guide on how that' done?


Compliments of BNeg

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Just for posterity's sake.









Although I still need to get the Koolance G1/4 end cap. PPCs was actually out of stock when I got my S/O valve and 180 TII fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I still to this day refuse to air test.









TCO


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> He guys whats are opinions on Dimastech test benches? I would like to hear them before indulging in buying one. Thanks in advance


They used to be good, but he's gone with cheaper material and the finishes on the new ones aren't that great. You're also having to fight with even getting your supposedly in stock item shipped to you on a timely manner (most people have to fight through 1.5-2 months of emails) and then to top it off there's a good chance you might not even get everything you paid for, or it wasn't packed right and got bent.... And then Dimastech will just ignore your emails.

There are also a number of people out thousands of dollars for items they paid for and never received from him.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Luckily I have the time and otherwise Spotswood is also an option, but more expensive and less pretty, well see


More expensive? I could have sworn most of his options were around half the cost of Dimastech. Sure aren't as pretty though, but he will do custom work.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey ladies and gents, so I've been using a Primochill Wet Bench for the last few years as my daily driver, but got sick of the dust and crappy cable management options so I grabbed a Phanteks Enthoo Primo. I transferred everything over last night and I'm up and running now! I'd say the most challenging part was trying to find a spot to mount my EK X-Res 140 because none of the reservoir mounts in the case were spaced correctly for the holes in in the reservoir bracket. I ended up drilling out new holes in the bracket so I could fit it next to the motherboard. It's a very tight squeeze, but it fits!

I have an EK D5 pump top lying around so I'll probably end up grabbing a reservoir and replacing the X-Res at some point.

This is a pretty awesome case! I managed to fit a UT60 360mm on the bottom using 38mm thick fans above pulling, an ST30 240mm up front with a set of fans pushing, and an XT45 420mm on the top with fans in push.pull. Here's the finished product.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks great for a Modern Old Tech (5.25 Bays ugh!







) case.









~Ceadder


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks great for a Modern Old Tech (5.25 Bays ugh!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Haha I know I don't like the 5.25 bays either. I only use one fan controller. Who the hell is going to put FIVE 5.25 devices into a case these days??? All the wasted space


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I still to this day refuse to air test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Not even for a cougar ride . . . .









D.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Haha I know I don't like the 5.25 bays either. I only use one fan controller. Who the hell is going to put FIVE 5.25 devices into a case these days??? All the wasted space


Not wasted if you cut them out!!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I still to this day refuse to air test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Why?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why?


He is not cautious.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> He is not cautious.


Is his username a lie after all? I feel cheated.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Is his username a lie after all? I feel cheated.


It is and you should.

He is really The Crazy One


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Haha I know I don't like the 5.25 bays either. I only use one fan controller. Who the hell is going to put FIVE 5.25 devices into a case these days??? All the wasted space


you could put a 3.5 x 5 hot swap setup and a fan controller!









while i do agree 5.25 bays arent as needed/wanted as they use to be they still have a purpose, i mean i do like the 5.25 x 2 monsoon reservoir. its so purdy!


----------



## DarthBaggins

So when can we expect the BNeg line of cases, would love to try one out, along with a lot of other cases. Really want to swap mITX cases


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not even for a cougar ride . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


I suppose I could make an exception, but the cougar ride first









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> He is not cautious.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Is his username a lie after all? I feel cheated.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> It is and you should.
> 
> He is really The Crazy One


I prefer to live on the edge!










TCO


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Does pretty much everyone air test their builds first then? Now I'm wondering if I'm missing something I should have been doing. ? I thought it was a good idea because you can never be overly cautious considering the amount of money we put into these builds, some of you much more so than me, but I never have, it seems like too much work when you could just do a 24-hour leak test with all the components unplugged.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Does pretty much everyone air test their builds first then? Now I'm wondering if I'm missing something I should have been doing. ? I thought it was a good idea because you can never be overly cautious considering the amount of money we put into these builds, some of you much more so than me, but I never have, it seems like too much work when you could just do a 24-hour leak test with all the components unplugged.


Its not a lot of work (from what I have seen and read in the forums, mind you) but it is another way to test the pressure of the tightness of the fittings on your tubing. Some use the method in order to not waste coolant, etc.

TCO


----------



## realtomatoes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Compliments of BNeg
> 
> TCO


thanks.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Its not a lot of work (from what I have seen and read in the forums, mind you) but it is another way to test the pressure of the tightness of the fittings on your tubing. Some use the method in order to not waste coolant, etc.
> 
> TCO


I think we should add The Confident One to the list









I have never done an "Air leak down test" either then again I inspect every fitting etc very carefully and triple check everything and never rush the build.
the cross fingers with a eagle eye while filling, if I ever have a leak I will say bugger I was warned the day I do


----------



## taowulf

I wanted to air test the last time I tore my loop down...got the wrong size fitting when I bought the stuff for my air testing setup...so did it the old fashioned way and found out the hard way I had not reinstalled the o-ring between the pump and my res.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> 24-hour leak test with all the components unplugged.


Who does that?









My builds were lucky if they got a 15 minute test. j/k

But not too much of a joking matter since at about that mark is when I'm ready to fire up the system.

Air testing kindof takes the place of traditional leak testing though. Two different molecules at work but an airtest helps lower the time it takes to perform a traditional leak test from what I can see. B came up with the idea to the best of my understanding and it makes sense. If you don't have a leak at ~10lbs air pressure a traditional leak test shouldn't take long to figure out if there is an issue in pretty short order.









~Ceadder


----------



## SteezyTN

I always found my air leak testing to fail on me, even when I passed with coolant. But then again, there was probably a leak in the device I made lol


----------



## longroadtrip

I've never air tested...Just do it the old fashioned way...


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> I've never air tested...Just do it the old fashioned way...


Never air tested, rebuilt loop 4 times and yet to experience a leak that wasnt caused during the computer functioning (Aka cracked reservoir)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not even for a cougar ride . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


And what a ride that would be!

Inb4retraction


----------



## eucalyptus

Hey







I don't remember if I had already posted this video I made a few weeks ago









But it's such an relaxing video to watch, and if you turn up the sound you can probably hear the beards singing and water flow























It's a pre-sample of my new project coming up in a few weeks. Just wanted to try and see how it worked


----------



## Chopper1591

Hey people.

I recently changed my desk but for some reason my case doesn't fit quiet well (my desk is now lower and so it's killing my back after prolonged time.
The case was on the floor before but I wanted to change my desk anyway (was a bit old) and while I was at it I decided to place my case on it... after all: why do we make nice builds to have them stand onder the desk, right?

Anyway. I've decided to change my case lol.
Some of you might know, I have my top radiator and pump on the outside of the case because of space limitations.

Because of the radiator, and pump, sticking out at the top I can't have my desk higher than it is now. There is a plank above it that restricts that....
So I want to buy a case that actually fits the parts so it is lowered slightly. Still higher compared to my 650D but lower when compared to the current height.









I've done some research and narrowed down my choice. Although other idea's/tips are very much welcome.
Would you guys/girls be so kind to have a look at my post here:
clicky


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't remember if I had already posted this video I made a few weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's such an relaxing video to watch, and if you turn up the sound you can probably hear the beards singing and water flow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a pre-sample of my new project coming up in a few weeks. Just wanted to try and see how it worked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your last one was truly nice so it'll be fun to see the next one









Yeah I also love when I hear "beards" singing


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys, so, I've got a question. My load temperatures when gaming are pretty toasty. And I think that my CPU actually runs warmer on water than it did on air. My CPU during games with my loop can reach up to like 65C when it's warm in my room, but usually is around 55-60C.

The GPU runs around 50C tops, in extreme cases 55-60C but never more. Yet my motherboard in games is only around 45-50C, and my drives are both usually under 40C by a few degrees. I've gone back and forth between having my fans as intake (which seems like the worse set up, as it blows the hot air directly onto the motherboard/CPU socket) and as they currently are, which is exhaust. My issue is, I don't really have any other space for additional cooling, given my computers small size. Last I checked the thermal paste was spread evenly and properly. And ideas what I can do? I've even considered removing my HDD, and trying to move the pump somewhere else, and placing the radiator directly under the GPU. Issue is with that, it'd be suffocated for air and I'd need to use 15mm thick fans. Also, I wouldn't have a way to directly feed my pump from the reservoir. I might be better off upgrading to a slightly larger case like the Phanteks Evolv ITX or Define Nano S, is most likely what I'd need to do.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys, so, I've got a question. My load temperatures when gaming are pretty toasty. And I think that my CPU actually runs warmer on water than it did on air. My CPU during games with my loop can reach up to like 65C when it's warm in my room, but usually is around 55-60C.
> 
> The GPU runs around 50C tops, in extreme cases 55-60C but never more. Yet my motherboard in games is only around 45-50C, and my drives are both usually under 40C by a few degrees. I've gone back and forth between having my fans as intake (which seems like the worse set up, as it blows the hot air directly onto the motherboard/CPU socket) and as they currently are, which is exhaust. My issue is, I don't really have any other space for additional cooling, given my computers small size. Last I checked the thermal paste was spread evenly and properly. And ideas what I can do? I've even considered removing my HDD, and trying to move the pump somewhere else, and placing the radiator directly under the GPU. Issue is with that, it'd be suffocated for air and I'd need to use 15mm thick fans. Also, I wouldn't have a way to directly feed my pump from the reservoir. I might be better off upgrading to a slightly larger case like the Phanteks Evolv ITX or Define Nano S, is most likely what I'd need to do.


Fans blowing air from the radiator onto parts won't heat them excessively, what CPU is it? is your flow correct through the CPU block? Can you show me your setup and I can advise better?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hey people.
> 
> I recently changed my desk but for some reason my case doesn't fit quiet well (my desk is now lower and so it's killing my back after prolonged time.
> The case was on the floor before but I wanted to change my desk anyway (was a bit old) and while I was at it I decided to place my case on it... after all: why do we make nice builds to have them stand onder the desk, right?
> 
> Anyway. I've decided to change my case lol.
> Some of you might know, I have my top radiator and pump on the outside of the case because of space limitations.
> 
> Because of the radiator, and pump, sticking out at the top I can't have my desk higher than it is now. There is a plank above it that restricts that....
> So I want to buy a case that actually fits the parts so it is lowered slightly. Still higher compared to my 650D but lower when compared to the current height.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've done some research and narrowed down my choice. Although other idea's/tips are very much welcome.
> Would you guys/girls be so kind to have a look at my post here:
> clicky


As you mentioned the S8 in your post at the Phanteks Club, I'm going to say that you should go with the S8.
If it's really beyond your budget, I understand. But it's worth every cent, no mass-market cases can compare to CaseLabs level of quality and engineering.

That would take care of your rad and pump, with room to spare.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Fans blowing air from the radiator onto parts won't heat them excessively, what CPU is it? is your flow correct through the CPU block? Can you show me your setup and I can advise better?


Yeah, my flow is correct. But it's the smallness of the case. As it's set up right now, it goes Reservoir -> Pump -> GPU -> CPU -> Radiator -> Reservoir.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> As you mentioned the S8 in your post at the Phanteks Club, I'm going to say that you should go with the S8.
> If it's really beyond your budget, I understand. But it's worth every cent, no mass-market cases can compare to CaseLabs level of quality and engineering.
> 
> That would take care of your rad and pump, with room to spare.


Yeah I agree that they are very nice, even though I haven't seen one in person I'd imagine that I will be sold when I do.
But to be honest, the Enthoo Primo is already a bit high on price for my budget currently. And the S8 will be about double that.

Anyway.
What I am looking for is some experience on the two mentioned Phanteks cases. My biggest concern is the size of my gpu not allowing the pump/top combo to be mounted on the reservoir mount.

Made two sketches:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Yeah, my flow is correct. But it's the smallness of the case. As it's set up right now, it goes Reservoir -> Pump -> GPU -> CPU -> Radiator -> Reservoir.


Oh boy.
I read your previous post/original question and I imagined you had a small case but this is extreme. Haha

Are you using a single radiator?
Honestly I don't understand why you even went water with such a small cube.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Yeah, my flow is correct. But it's the smallness of the case. As it's set up right now, it goes Reservoir -> Pump -> GPU -> CPU -> Radiator -> Reservoir.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You only have one radiator for 2 components? Are they overclocked? is that an x99 build?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You only have one radiator for 2 components? Are they overclocked? is that an x99 build?


He's running an X99E-ITX/AC in an Ncase M1. Probably a 5820k, although I've been wrong before.

@Sazexa the single 240 shouldn't really be a problem as radiator efficiency goes up dramatically with more thermal load. I do think you may need to adjust your expectations, though. 55-65C is completely reasonable for a build this small with so little room to dissipate heat. I'm not exactly sure what you're worried about though, as those are completely normal and safe operating temperatures.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are you using a single radiator?
> Honestly I don't understand why you even went water with such a small cube.


Before hand, the GPU would be at almost 85C. Plus I wanted the challenge of going to a watercooled build in such a confined space.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You only have one radiator for 2 components? Are they overclocked? is that an x99 build?


Yeah, and it works pretty well. They aren't overclocked, but it's an i7-5820K and a GTX 980 on a single EK SE 240 (240mm x 26mm)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> He's running an X99E-ITX/AC in an Ncase M1. Probably a 5820k, although I've been wrong before.
> 
> @Sazexa the single 240 shouldn't really be a problem as radiator efficiency goes up dramatically with more thermal load. I do think you may need to adjust your expectations, though. 55-65C is completely reasonable for a build this small with so little room to dissipate heat. I'm not exactly sure what you're worried about though, as those are completely normal and safe operating temperatures.


I think you're right, I just need to adjust expectations. I know they're acceptable. I'm just slightly worried about the temperatures of a Samsung 950 Pro. I'm considering getting one, but worried it'll thermal throttle. I'd like to remove the HDD from the system, use the 950 Pro as my primary/boot drive, and then maybe a few high capacity SSD's, to really make it speedy over-all. The SSD's don't throw off much heat, but the HDD does.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i really really hope you stop saying "1 radiator."
> both of these are 1 radiator
> 
> it certainly looks like a single on the back and a 2x on the side. still plenty of area for stock clocks. he put an oven in a shoebox.


The thing on the back is the FrozenQ res made specifically to fit the M1:


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> The thing on the back is the FrozenQ res made specifically to fit the M1:


Yes, it is. One 240mm x 26mm radiator, ~22FPI. If I leave the radiator out of the case, everything runs significantly cooler. Heatsoak from it all being cramped together makes it run as warm as it does.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Before hand, the GPU would be at almost 85C. Plus I wanted the challenge of going to a watercooled build in such a confined space.
> Yeah, and it works pretty well. They aren't overclocked, but it's an i7-5820K and a GTX 980 on a single EK SE 240 (240mm x 26mm)
> I think you're right, I just need to adjust expectations. I know they're acceptable. I'm just slightly worried about the temperatures of a Samsung 950 Pro. I'm considering getting one, but worried it'll thermal throttle. I'd like to remove the HDD from the system, use the 950 Pro as my primary/boot drive, and then maybe a few high capacity SSD's, to really make it speedy over-all. The SSD's don't throw off much heat, but the HDD does.


I see, you could possibly mount one externally to help bring the temp down or mod the case a little to help it breathe easier but personally I think those components need more rad space.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> The thing on the back is the FrozenQ res made specifically to fit the M1:


thats some neat stuff right there.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Yes, it is. One 240mm x 26mm radiator, ~22FPI. If I leave the radiator out of the case, everything runs significantly cooler. Heatsoak from it all being cramped together makes it run as warm as it does.


I've had success in the past with small cases by making the rad the exhaust.. most of the heat generated goes into the loop anyways and then the heat goes directly out of the case rather than making it a hotbox. Maybe try flipping the rad fans around so they pull air out the side rather than push it in?

If that isn't enough maybe try a higher fpi rad and some quiet high static pressure fans like the Scythe GT's. I've had success with the 30fpi koolance rads and scythe GT's.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> I've had success in the past with small cases by making the rad the exhaust.. most of the heat generated goes into the loop anyways and then the heat goes directly out of the case rather than making it a hotbox. Maybe try flipping the rad fans around so they pull air out the side rather than push it in?
> 
> If that isn't enough maybe try a higher fpi rad and some quiet high static pressure fans like the Scythe GT's. I've had success with the 30fpi koolance rads and scythe GT's.


They're currently set to exhaust air. It's just there is no other air movement in the build really. The only two fans (Noctua NF-F12's) are the only air moving fans in the case. The temperatures aren't too bad, really. I just, as before mentioned, had kind of unrealistic expectations. Though, yet at the same time, for it's size and the radiator used, I feel it does an excellent job of dissipating the heat it does generate.

I'm wondering how the build will hold up when I toss the 6950X in here.









Average peak temperatures during gaming, which causes the most heat load on the system:


This image is pretty darn accurate, I'd say +/- maybe 5C on GPU and CPU, and board. SSD never really gets warmer than that. HDD has gotten to around 55C, but never warmer.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> They're currently set to exhaust air. It's just there is no other air movement in the build really. The only two fans (Noctua NF-F12's) are the only air moving fans in the case. The temperatures aren't too bad, really. I just, as before mentioned, had kind of unrealistic expectations. Though, yet at the same time, for it's size and the radiator used, I feel it does an excellent job of dissipating the heat it does generate.


i would get to modding and add some high flowing intake openings. it may help a lot more than you think.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> They're currently set to exhaust air. It's just there is no other air movement in the build really. The only two fans (Noctua NF-F12's) are the only air moving fans in the case. The temperatures aren't too bad, really. I just, as before mentioned, had kind of unrealistic expectations. Though, yet at the same time, for it's size and the radiator used, I feel it does an excellent job of dissipating the heat it does generate.
> 
> I'm wondering how the build will hold up when I toss the 6950X in here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Average peak temperatures during gaming, which causes the most heat load on the system:
> 
> 
> This image is pretty darn accurate, I'd say +/- maybe 5C on GPU and CPU, and board. SSD never really gets warmer than that. HDD has gotten to around 55C, but never warmer.


Is there no way to have the rear fan mount have both a fan and the res? Couldn't you fashion some form of bracket or even buy some radiator stand offs?

Like these?
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/XSPC-M4-Aluminium-Radiator-Mounting-Bracket-Set_25290.html

You wouldn't need to mod anything this way and you'll have fresh air going in.


----------



## kl6mk6

I still leat test
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Before hand, the GPU would be at almost 85C. Plus I wanted the challenge of going to a watercooled build in such a confined space.
> Yeah, and it works pretty well. They aren't overclocked, but it's an i7-5820K and a GTX 980 on a single EK SE 240 (240mm x 26mm)
> I think you're right, I just need to adjust expectations. I know they're acceptable. I'm just slightly worried about the temperatures of a Samsung 950 Pro. I'm considering getting one, but worried it'll thermal throttle. I'd like to remove the HDD from the system, use the 950 Pro as my primary/boot drive, and then maybe a few high capacity SSD's, to really make it speedy over-all. The SSD's don't throw off much heat, but the HDD does.


In reality the 950 is so fast that even if it does thermal throttle, it will still out perform standard sata ssds. I own one, and the only time I have run into thermal issues is while benchmarking it. The 512G 950 Pro is one of my most cherished components and is a great investment if you are looking to upgrade in my opinion.

I love your build and have always wanted to do a mini watercooled build. Kudos for making it look and work so well. I think your temps, while high for a large build, are exceptional for such a beautifully small build like that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well thinking of reviving the R.C70 case and repainting along with snagging some extra side panels so I can add the window to the proper side this time around. Think of going with the Asrock z170 Extreme 7 with the matching BitsPower mono block:.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> They're currently set to exhaust air. It's just there is no other air movement in the build really. The only two fans (Noctua NF-F12's) are the only air moving fans in the case. The temperatures aren't too bad, really. I just, as before mentioned, had kind of unrealistic expectations. Though, yet at the same time, for it's size and the radiator used, I feel it does an excellent job of dissipating the heat it does generate.
> 
> I'm wondering how the build will hold up when I toss the 6950X in here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Average peak temperatures during gaming, which causes the most heat load on the system:
> 
> 
> This image is pretty darn accurate, I'd say +/- maybe 5C on GPU and CPU, and board. SSD never really gets warmer than that. HDD has gotten to around 55C, but never warmer.


Those temps are not bad at all, but that rad is not as good for cooling compared to some of the other 30mm thick rads you can get (I remember seeing 360mm versions compared and it was at the bottom of the chart I think) also the noctuas are quieter but don't work as well as GT's at pulling air into the case and pushing it out the side.

I was getting similar temps with about the same heat output to the loop with a single 120mm 30mm thick koolance rad and one scythe GT 1850rpm fan in push exhausting out the front of an SG05 back in the day. The GT's aren't silent at full speed but their tone is very easy to ignore, and i'm picky most of the time.

Edit: If you get desperate and don't mind spoiling the look somewhat you can fit 280mm rads on top of the roof of the ncase, I have a Koolance one on top of mine.


----------



## motor sw

First watercooling build done









I´m still not decided with the color of the coolant. Had red while testing but clear looks good as well. And then there is pastel white... hmmm. Also quick question about pastel colors, do they stay white for example, or are the keen of discoloring?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> First watercooling build done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I´m still not decided with the color of the coolant. Had red while testing but clear looks good as well. And then there is pastel white... hmmm. Also quick question about pastel colors, do they stay white for example, or are the keen of discoloring?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As long as you prep the system properly, the color should be fine. Get a blitz pro kit and be sure that you get the part 2 rinsed out REALLY well when you're done. Personally, I think it looks really good with clear fluid. I think you will want a different color than the fittings though for contrast, so go red if you decided on colored fluid.

Nice work on the tubing







I'm doing hardlines on my next build and will be bending as much as possible.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> First watercooling build done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I´m still not decided with the color of the coolant. Had red while testing but clear looks good as well. And then there is pastel white... hmmm. Also quick question about pastel colors, do they stay white for example, or are the keen of discoloring?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as you prep the system properly, the color should be fine. Get a blitz pro kit and be sure that you get the part 2 rinsed out REALLY well when you're done. Personally, I think it looks really good with clear fluid. I think you will want a different color than the fittings though for contrast, so go red if you decided on colored fluid.
> 
> Nice work on the tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing hardlines on my next build and will be bending as much as possible.
Click to expand...

it can, it still is kinda an unknown as it is a newish formula here is one such example
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What fittings are you using? Bitspower?
> 
> Looks pretty cool, nice Noiseblocker fan in the back! I got 8 of them, but DHL lost the package so they are sending 8 new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I use C48 bitspower for the attachment to the Flow Meter, and C47s most everywhere else. from the Bottom of the Res to the pump I have soft tubing ( 3/8 x 1/2") with XSPC compression straight fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> S3 buildlog is in Siggy. But the Color Change was pretty Drastic.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok! AURORA UPDATE!!
> 
> Aurora was put in loop on 8/20/15
> 
> I just Removed it on 6/2/16 (Just shy of a Year)
> 
> Particles were all still present, but the color (Probably from not flushing the Rad)


----------



## chuckfarnham

I recently finished upgrading from soft tubing to rigid tubing. Thought I would share some pics of the completed project. Let me know what you think!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chuckfarnham*
> 
> I recently finished upgrading from soft tubing to rigid tubing. Thought I would share some pics of the completed project. Let me know what you think!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]


I think you did a slamming job. Good attention to detail. Cables look great. Love the colour matching. Tubing is excellent. Great stuff.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> First watercooling build done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I´m still not decided with the color of the coolant. Had red while testing but clear looks good as well. And then there is pastel white... hmmm. Also quick question about pastel colors, do they stay white for example, or are the keen of discoloring?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the Fans. Run the clear for a while.









TCO


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chuckfarnham*
> 
> I recently finished upgrading from soft tubing to rigid tubing. Thought I would share some pics of the completed project. Let me know what you think!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]


+1 for no dye!


----------



## FXformat

Just about finished with the new build...staying clear, i'm digging the clean look...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Just about finished with the new build...staying clear, i'm digging the clean look...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think the main thing that takes away from your build is the EVGA on the Graphics Card. It was made like that I am assuming, but I just feel like there should be something else there instead of the writing.









TCO


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think the main thing that takes away from your build is the EVGA on the Graphics Card. It was made like that I am assuming, but I just feel like there should be something else there instead of the writing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Its a Evga Hydro Copper, I have one myself, they are gorgeous!!









BTW, I love the Orchid (spelling?)


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Just about finished with the new build...staying clear, i'm digging the clean look...


Looks great. Clear makes a build look pure. Colored and mainly pastel makes it look gimmicky imho.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chuckfarnham*
> 
> I recently finished upgrading from soft tubing to rigid tubing. Thought I would share some pics of the completed project. Let me know what you think!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 for no dye!
Click to expand...

+1









As someone above said, dyes make some builds look gimmicky. If I need some color in my tubing, I will go for colored tubing. At least if I choose to go with Red, I don't have a single care in the world about staining my blocks or Reservoir.









~Ceadder


----------



## motor sw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> As long as you prep the system properly, the color should be fine. Get a blitz pro kit and be sure that you get the part 2 rinsed out REALLY well when you're done. Personally, I think it looks really good with clear fluid. I think you will want a different color than the fittings though for contrast, so go red if you decided on colored fluid.
> 
> Nice work on the tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing hardlines on my next build and will be bending as much as possible.


Thank you! Yeah, some accent color would be nice if I went with white coolant








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it can, it still is kinda an unknown as it is a newish formula here is one such example


Wow, that´s some serous discoloring








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Love the Fans. Run the clear for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thanks! Agreed, the Parvum fans are super sweet, and silent


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> As long as you prep the system properly, the color should be fine. Get a blitz pro kit and be sure that you get the part 2 rinsed out REALLY well when you're done. Personally, I think it looks really good with clear fluid. I think you will want a different color than the fittings though for contrast, so go red if you decided on colored fluid.
> 
> Nice work on the tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing hardlines on my next build and will be bending as much as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! Yeah, some accent color would be nice if I went with white coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it can, it still is kinda an unknown as it is a newish formula here is one such example
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wow, that´s some serous discoloring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Love the Fans. Run the clear for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks! Agreed, the Parvum fans are super sweet, and silent
Click to expand...

Go with White tubing and you'll have all the accent color you need.





No worries about breakdown either.









~Ceadder


----------



## chuckfarnham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think you did a slamming job. Good attention to detail. Cables look great. Love the colour matching. Tubing is excellent. Great stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fans. Run the clear for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Much appreciated! This was my first rigid tubing setup. Very happy with how everything turned out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> +1 for no dye!


Thanks!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go with White tubing and you'll have all the accent color you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No worries about breakdown either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Completely Disagree with you. Turned off by any coloured tubing. 100%










TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Completely Disagree with you. Turned off by any coloured tubing. 100%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Depends really, if you use a coloured res tube then it looks pretty nice and you can run straight distilled. I was going to do that with my AMD rig but I'll be selling it soon so don't see the point.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Depends really, if you use a coloured res tube then it looks pretty nice and you can run straight distilled. I was going to do that with my AMD rig but I'll be selling it soon so don't see the point.


I wouldn't say it "Depends"

I would say, you just gave your









TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I wouldn't say it "Depends"
> 
> I would say, you just gave your
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yeah that's true honestly. Good point.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah that's true honestly. Good point.


Only Thing I try to be, is Honest, and cautious....

TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Only Thing I try to be, is Honest, and cautious....
> 
> TCO


No one can be honest and cautious, being honest makes you plenty of enemies as seen in this thread alone many times lol, so that sounds like an oxymoron to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> No one can be honest and cautious, *being honest makes you plenty of enemies as seen in this thread alone many times lol,* so that sounds like an oxymoron to me.


Sadly this is true.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> No one can be honest and cautious, being honest makes you plenty of enemies as seen in this thread alone many times lol, so that sounds like an oxymoron to me.


Well I am not Cautious about being Honest









Making enemies means you are doing something right. They can't all be friends.

TCO


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> First watercooling build done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I´m still not decided with the color of the coolant. Had red while testing but clear looks good as well. And then there is pastel white... hmmm. Also quick question about pastel colors, do they stay white for example, or are the keen of discoloring?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I can't help but notice.
Are you running the return line through the top of the reservoir but without an extender tube inside? Air alert.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chuckfarnham*
> 
> I recently finished upgrading from soft tubing to rigid tubing. Thought I would share some pics of the completed project. Let me know what you think!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know I can't swear here. But oh my.
Very nicely done, especially for your first rigid. Did you toss many tubes? Like in: missbending.

But really... Stop it!
The more I look at those rigid builds the harder it is for me to not go for it.

It will be so expensive just for the looks. Fittings for example are already very expensive. I saw a Bitspower 45 degree rotary Deluxe white for €21








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Just about finished with the new build...staying clear, i'm digging the clean look...


Agree. Clear looks very nice.

I currently have Mayhem red (I know, red is horrid for the block) in my soft loop.
First time using dye here. It was cool and all but I will most likely go back to either clear or colored tubing.

As a matter of fact:
*Any tips on color for my upcoming build?*
I plan to change to a Phanteks Primo and will be using the same parts as I have now, except changing my 140.1 to either a 140.2 or 140.3. Want to place my reservoir/pump combo back into the case next to my gpu (wouldn't fit in the 650D). UT60 360 will be on the bottom and the new rad in the top.

Current:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think the main thing that takes away from your build is the EVGA on the Graphics Card. It was made like that I am assuming, but I just feel like there should be something else there instead of the writing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yeah, its kinda too much. Right?

Apart from that, I like it.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think the main thing that takes away from your build is the EVGA on the Graphics Card. It was made like that I am assuming, but I just feel like there should be something else there instead of the writing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yeah it was made like that, I personally like the logo with the LEDs shining through. This card was sold out for the longest time, the 980ti at least. But the ports line up with the CPU block and ram block so I went with it. Plus it has 6 inlets on the terminal so I have lots of options with my loop directions.


----------



## chuckfarnham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I know I can't swear here. But oh my.
> Very nicely done, especially for your first rigid. Did you toss many tubes? Like in: missbending.
> 
> But really... Stop it!
> The more I look at those rigid builds the harder it is for me to not go for it.
> 
> It will be so expensive just for the looks. Fittings for example are already very expensive. I saw a Bitspower 45 degree rotary Deluxe white for €21
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agree. Clear looks very nice.
> 
> I currently have Mayhem red (I know, red is horrid for the block) in my soft loop.
> First time using dye here. It was cool and all but I will most likely go back to either clear or colored tubing.
> 
> As a matter of fact:
> *Any tips on color for my upcoming build?*
> I plan to change to a Phanteks Primo and will be using the same parts as I have now, except changing my 140.1 to either a 140.2 or 140.3. Want to place my reservoir/pump combo back into the case next to my gpu (wouldn't fit in the 650D). UT60 360 will be on the bottom and the new rad in the top.
> 
> Current:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, its kinda too much. Right?
> 
> Apart from that, I like it.


The only tube I had to redo was the one from the top rad to the inlet on the CPU block. It was really close the first time but I am such a perfectionist it had to be perfect. I did was get some extra tube and practiced a bit before doing the actual bends!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chuckfarnham*
> 
> The only tube I had to redo was the one from the top rad to the inlet on the CPU block. It was really close the first time *but I am such a perfectionist it had to be perfect*. I did was get some extra tube and practiced a bit before doing the actual bends!


That was my though.









I see myself tossing out 30% or something because 1mm difference is not acceptable.
Then again, I think most of us are perfectionists here. I mean.... look at the builds.









But.
Any thought on tubing choice based on the colors of my parts.
Do note that I will probably upgrade to Skylake in the future with a Hero board (so red accents will stay in the build).

I can still decide which color Primo to get though.
Leaning towards this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Or classic black/white:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Currently I think I will go with black or red tubing.
Thoughts?


----------



## chuckfarnham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That was my though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see myself tossing out 30% or something because 1mm difference is not acceptable.
> Then again, I think most of us are perfectionists here. I mean.... look at the builds.


Agreed!


----------



## motor sw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I can't help but notice.
> Are you running the return line through the top of the reservoir but without an extender tube inside? Air alert.


Nah, its just the pics fooling you. Pump inlet is the tube from the graphics card. Pump outlet is facing the mid-wall and feeding the tube towards the 360 rad. Drain valve also hidden behind the pump via a tube to the other compartment









Mentioning the bends, I think i binned over 10 sections and I´m still not perfectly happy lol. Ran out of tube, I guess I´ll have to redo some of the tubes next time my loop is down for maintenance haha!


----------



## chuckfarnham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That was my though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see myself tossing out 30% or something because 1mm difference is not acceptable.
> Then again, I think most of us are perfectionists here. I mean.... look at the builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But.
> Any thought on tubing choice based on the colors of my parts.
> Do note that I will probably upgrade to Skylake in the future with a Hero board (so red accents will stay in the build).
> 
> I can still decide which color Primo to get though.
> Leaning towards this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or classic black/white:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I think I will go with black or red tubing.
> Thoughts?


I like the Primochill black tubing as well. If I had to choose any other color besides clear it would be black. I used a combination of BitsPower and Primochill fittings. I already had several of the BitsPower fittings from the soft tubing.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i would get to modding and add some high flowing intake openings. it may help a lot more than you think.


I've considered it. But I'd like to maybe buy a second/space case. Or, even easier, just switch cases to anything like a Phanteks Evolv ITX, Fractal Design Nano S, NZXT Manta, or even a Corsair 250D.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Is there no way to have the rear fan mount have both a fan and the res? Couldn't you fashion some form of bracket or even buy some radiator stand offs?
> 
> Like these?
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/XSPC-M4-Aluminium-Radiator-Mounting-Bracket-Set_25290.html
> 
> You wouldn't need to mod anything this way and you'll have fresh air going in.


I could possibly use that on the reservoir and extend it out slightly. But then I'd need a 92mm, likely 92mm x 15mm, and the only one I know of is the Noctua one which is not going to match or look to nice in there.









EDIT: It might not work with my current reservoir due to the offset of the brackets.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I still leat test
> In reality the 950 is so fast that even if it does thermal throttle, it will still out perform standard sata ssds. I own one, and the only time I have run into thermal issues is while benchmarking it. The 512G 950 Pro is one of my most cherished components and is a great investment if you are looking to upgrade in my opinion.
> 
> I love your build and have always wanted to do a mini watercooled build. Kudos for making it look and work so well. I think your temps, while high for a large build, are exceptional for such a beautifully small build like that.


Well, thanks. That's also reassuring to hear. Perhaps I'll do something like get the 950 Pro, and maybe one or two more of my 730 series SSD's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Those temps are not bad at all, but that rad is not as good for cooling compared to some of the other 30mm thick rads you can get (I remember seeing 360mm versions compared and it was at the bottom of the chart I think) also the noctuas are quieter but don't work as well as GT's at pulling air into the case and pushing it out the side.
> 
> I was getting similar temps with about the same heat output to the loop with a single 120mm 30mm thick koolance rad and one scythe GT 1850rpm fan in push exhausting out the front of an SG05 back in the day. The GT's aren't silent at full speed but their tone is very easy to ignore, and i'm picky most of the time.
> 
> Edit: If you get desperate and don't mind spoiling the look somewhat you can fit 280mm rads on top of the roof of the ncase, I have a Koolance one on top of mine.


I'd like to avoid an external radiator and fan set up for the dust factor of it. I did ponder it for a while. I also used an EK PE 240 (240mm x 38mm) and my temperatures were actually not any different with that radiator. I think it was chocking the air even more so, or adding to the "heatsoak" factor. I really shouldn't be worrying about it though.

EDIT: I've also considered doing a radiator on the far side of the case, the motherboard panel side.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly this is true.


I find our british sense of humour is frowned upon too in all honesty lol! And when given the option to settle things privately they never respond though the rep received through my honesty is well worth it.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I've considered it. But I'd like to maybe buy a second/space case. Or, even easier, just switch cases to anything like a Phanteks Evolv ITX, Fractal Design Nano S, NZXT Manta, or even a Corsair 250D..
> 
> I'd like to avoid an external radiator and fan set up for the dust factor of it. I did ponder it for a while. I also used an EK PE 240 (240mm x 38mm) and my temperatures were actually not any different with that radiator. I think it was chocking the air even more so, or adding to the "heatsoak" factor. I really shouldn't be worrying about it though.
> 
> EDIT: I've also considered doing a radiator on the far side of the case, the motherboard panel side.


I actually moved to a bigger case then moved back, not many cases give you the footprint of the ncase M1 while being able to house high end components and watercooling.

With mine I have the sfx psu mounted with a steel adapter to the atx bracket, which adds alot of rigidity to the case. I have the pump+res mounted to the back 92mm grill slots on the inside, leaving me room for two bottom scythe GT's at 5v which will be a filtered intake. I use the two holes in the back of the case with some bulkhead fittings to run tubes out to the radiator on top. The top rad has fans mounted above it in pull so air is encouraged to exit through the top of the ncase, and any dust builds up on the rad fins in an area you can't really see.

The rad is suspended above the case by undesigns 140mm brackets with some plastic spacers I had from old EK blocks, and the bracket is zip tied through holes in the top panel rather then screwed down so it doesn't scratch it. The size and position of the rad is such that I can have access to the retaining screw for the top panel and have plenty of clearance for optical disks to slide out the top when I eventually get a blueray burner for it.


----------



## EpicOtis13

These aren't great photo's but I don't have great photo setup. My specs are in my sig, I love this rig but I'm going to have to replace my pump soon since it is somewhat broken and is much too loud.





I know that the copper isn't perfect but I like the look that it gets when you polish it and then let in oxidize and react to the oils that my hands leave on it.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Yeah it was made like that, I personally like the logo with the LEDs shining through. This card was sold out for the longest time, the 980ti at least. But the ports line up with the CPU block and ram block so I went with it. Plus it has 6 inlets on the terminal so I have lots of options with my loop directions.


Hey what case is that hanging on your wall?


----------



## battleaxe

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> These aren't great photo's but I don't have great photo setup. My specs are in my sig, I love this rig but I'm going to have to replace my pump soon since it is somewhat broken and is much too loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that the copper isn't perfect but I like the look that it gets when you polish it and then let in oxidize and react to the oils that my hands leave on it.






Put some clear lacquer on it. That's what I did. No more oxidizing from finger prints.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Hey what case is that hanging on your wall?


That's the Lian Li PC-O6S, Micro ATX slim chasis


----------



## TheCautiousOne

More in the Ze Popped Cherry Log.

Bending at the moment.









TCO


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> 
> Put some clear lacquer on it. That's what I did. No more oxidizing from finger prints.


I actually kinda like the oxidization that comes with the fingerprints, but only when it is in a natural and unpatterned way.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go with White tubing and you'll have all the accent color you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No worries about breakdown either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completely Disagree with you. Turned off by any coloured tubing. 100%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Yer a dye-head though. So your







is duly noted with a brick of sodium chloride.







lulz

And haft say as a fan, yes not in the least bit cautious. Nothing wrong with that.









~Ceadder


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yer a dye-head though. So your
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is duly noted with a brick of sodium chloride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> And haft say as a fan, yes not in the least bit cautious. Nothing wrong with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Are you saying he is The Colored One?


----------



## saxovtsmike




----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I've also considered doing a radiator on the far side of the case, the motherboard panel side.


I don't think that's a great idea considering the side panels are held in place by plastic clip in peices, plus it would unbalance the case a little.

I recorded my temps while playing GTA5 for a while. Peak reported power consumtion for the cpu and gpu combined was just over 355W. The two fan speeds reported are the pump on FANIN0 (18W PWM DDC) and the rad fans on FANIN1 (Noiseblocker PK-3's)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Have read and a chuckle.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/b-negative_the_modding_interview/1


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have read and a chuckle.
> 
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/b-negative_the_modding_interview/1


Nice... didn't chuckle at all, mostly sat here with my mouth wide open like a birds nest


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have read and a chuckle.
> 
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/b-negative_the_modding_interview/1


Nice read!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have read and a chuckle.
> 
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/b-negative_the_modding_interview/1


Space Biscuits?

Very good read, and the praise is well-deserved.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have read and a chuckle.
> 
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/b-negative_the_modding_interview/1


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have read and a chuckle.
> 
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/b-negative_the_modding_interview/1










Congrats on that one


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chuckfarnham*
> 
> I recently finished upgrading from soft tubing to rigid tubing. Thought I would share some pics of the completed project. Let me know what you think!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congratulations on a fantastic job!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Leak Testing. Still have lighting to do, Cables ship this week.

Going to leak test for a while, then boot up for the first time and install windows and whatnot.



TCO


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have read and a chuckle.
> 
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/b-negative_the_modding_interview/1


I went from always thinking I wonder how he looks like. To I m seeing you all over (in the back) of YouTube videos


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yer a dye-head though. So your
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is duly noted with a brick of sodium chloride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> And haft say as a fan, yes not in the least bit cautious. Nothing wrong with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you saying he is The Colored One?
Click to expand...

Nope. Here that is considered Racist.









~Ceadder


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Leak Testing. Still have lighting to do, Cables ship this week.
> 
> Going to leak test for a while, then boot up for the first time and install windows and whatnot.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Looks good so far.
Only thing I noticed was the not so parallel run from the gpu to the back.

Why the plexi gpu block extender. Black would look better IMO.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Looks good so far.
> Only thing I noticed was the not so parallel run from the gpu to the back.
> 
> Why the plexi gpu block extender. Black would look better IMO.


Yea... Everything is hand bent. So not everything is perfect









Plexi block is actually a Single EK SLI Block connector. I went with that because the Waterblock is an Original CSQ Waterblock. I polished the waterblock, and now the bridge is polished to match.









TCO


----------



## emsj86

@ TCO it's probably just it not being complete and without cables but I feel the space between motherboard and reservoir is just lacking something. Maybe some acrylic work or a tube ran through hat area will even out the case. Looks good though just a suggestion


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @ TCO it's probably just it not being complete and without cables but I feel the space between motherboard and reservoir is just lacking something. Maybe some acrylic work or a tube ran through hat area will even out the case. Looks good though just a suggestion


A 60mm rad could have done the trick, but I know what you mean.

TCO


----------



## nabarun

My tj11


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Just wanted to say that windows update takes a looongggg time to find all of them... Had to leave it running while I slept. A good 2 hours wouldn't cut it while I was watching prison break.

TCO


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just wanted to say that windows update takes a looongggg time to find all of them... Had to leave it running while I slept. A good 2 hours wouldn't cut it while I was watching prison break.
> 
> TCO


Yep, especially from a clean install. Just better to make a image of the OS and apply the updates to that and keep as backup for when you want to do a fresh install.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yep, especially from a clean install. Just better to make a image of the OS and apply the updates to that and keep as backup for when you want to do a fresh install.


Starting to see that now... Just couldn't believe that I had to let it run overnight to gather all of the updates!

I believe it was 177 total

TCO


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Starting to see that now... Just couldn't believe that I had to let it run overnight to gather all of the updates!
> 
> I believe it was 177 total
> 
> TCO


Well, that what happens after an OS been out for a while. What annoying is going through and making sure none of the W10 nag ware gets install from that.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nabarun*
> 
> 
> My tj11


looks great and I really like the TJ11, almost went with it instead of my SM8,

but just curious, perhaps being a bit nitpicky, but why use the extension fitting there? it looks out of place and with just a c48 fitting coming out of the dual rotary and then a 90 degree multi-link enhance fitting (it would also match the one right next to it), personally I think would make it look alot better and more streamlined.... just a thought









still looks great nonetheless!


----------



## bluedevil

Just got another part in for the DOOM build.


----------



## nabarun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> looks great and I really like the TJ11, almost went with it instead of my SM8,
> 
> but just curious, perhaps being a bit nitpicky, but why use the extension fitting there? it looks out of place and with just a c48 fitting coming out of the dual rotary and then a 90 degree multi-link enhance fitting (it would also match the one right next to it), personally I think would make it look alot better and more streamlined.... just a thought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still looks great nonetheless!


thanks for the reply, yeah i chose the easiest way since i was getting short on fittings, not to happy about that connection too . I will redo that one soon but for now it's good


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Cables are shipped for Ze Popped Cherry









TCO


----------



## electro2u

icemodz? waiting on some myself

Edit: nvm found it in the BL







Good show!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> icemodz? waiting on some myself
> 
> Edit: nvm found it in the BL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good show!


Thanks! I need some life in this case. The black cables from EVGA with the 750P2 are a tad rough. I remembered why I buy cases (CL) with white interiors. They are so much more vibrant.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Have read and a chuckle.
> 
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/b-negative_the_modding_interview/1


Love the C70 build, still have to say it would look even better as an Rev ATX







lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

More shots in the build log!



TCO


----------



## emsj86

@Tco I think the distilled might just be better than blue pastel but we will see. Looks good


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @Tco I think the distilled might just be better than blue pastel but we will see. Looks good


Yes we will. The build isn't for me. The Blue will Pop. Trust Me









TCO


----------



## Ithanul

Wooo, I wonder what most everyone's else loop temp is at.

Mine quite toasty atm.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



It is at 50C


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Wooo, I wonder what most everyone's else loop temp is at.
> 
> Mine quite toasty atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It is at 50C


is your water at 50*C? that isnt good for some of the loop parts. if it is, get it cooled down.


----------



## galletabah

50C in the water xDDDD


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> is your water at 50*C? that isnt good for some of the loop parts. if it is, get it cooled down.


Yep, its cooking for sure.







That what happens when one is pushing two Tis and a CPU at BOINC.
I be a crazy gal at times.







Should seen it when I ran a 7970 in TC full load at 70+C for months.

It right now at 52C now.

Just re-position my case temporarily for the event now. Maybe being in front of the window A/C can help.

Temps drop to 48C 46C now. I am curious, what is unsafe temps for a water loop?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Crazy stuff I be doing.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Is it because you only have one radiator?


Ah, yeah, it works fine when only folding on one Ti cranked up and gaming, but these PrimeGrid units on both Tis sure make some heat along with the 4770K hauling butt on some units too.









Kind of a sauna atm in here. Got a tablet, a laptop, and two rigs atm hauling butt crunching. Got to keep the other teams off OCN in Pentathlon.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Temps drop to 48C 46C now. I am curious, what is unsafe temps for a water loop?
> 
> [


as i stated previously, 50*C is where 'they' say safe temps end.


----------



## paskowitz

That is pretty warm. Worst my loop has seen is 42c. That is with a 4790K at 5.0Ghz/1.42v, 1x 980 Ti Classy at 1540/8100Mhz 1.25v, 420mm of radiator, 5 fans (~1000rpm) and an ambient of 25c. I was running the Crysis 3 "skybox" test. Maybe if I did something like Furmark and Prime95 it would be worse... but I have a feeling neither of my processors would be stable for long enough to find out. If I run my fans at max RPM (2000-3000:bigeyedsm) then my water temps never go above the low 30c's. Those Noctua Industrials move a crap ton of air.

I have my system auto shutdown at 50c. I am pretty sure most pumps start to have issues when the temps get that high.

One question I do have is what is a "bad/good/great" delta temp at idle and load (in general, I know there are lots of variables)? At idle my delta is about +5-6c. Under load (and with the fans at 1000-1200rpm) I get around +8-12c.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ah, yeah, it works fine when only folding on one Ti cranked up and gaming, but these PrimeGrid units on both Tis sure make some heat along with the 4770K hauling butt on some units too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of a sauna atm in here. Got a tablet, a laptop, and two rigs atm hauling butt crunching. Got to keep the other teams off OCN in Pentathlon.


Folding is pretty hardcore for my 970s, they get pretty hot while folding compared to gaming. You might need more radiators but what is your ambient temp in Alabama atm?


----------



## Ithanul

Usually my temps don't get that high while folding, but these PrimeGrid units really put some serious load on the GPUs. Even more so since I got Process Lasso keeping the CPU and GPU units separate allowing the GPUs to stay pretty much at 99% load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Folding is pretty hardcore for my 970s, they get pretty hot while folding compared to gaming. You might need more radiators but what is your ambient temp in Alabama atm?


Hmmm let me go convert it. When it was at that high temp the ambient was 26.67C inside (note: I only have a window AC, no central air).

I plan to put more radiators in. Just need to mod the 915F I plan to smack to the bottom of this Haf X.

This not while folding, but doing PrimeGrid in BOINC which some BOINC projects can make folding look easy in comparison. I usually only use my GPUs in BOINC during Pentathlon time.

Biggest deal is the fact GPUs are at 99% load with my 4770K with usually four threads at full load with the other threads around 50-80% load.


----------



## Gabrielzm

what a beautiful block. Interesting design for the core part. Looks like a small channel plate "compress" the flow through the channels.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what a beautiful block. Interesting design for the core part. Looks like a small channel plate "compress" the flow through the channels.


I love the aquacomputer blocks too


----------



## VSG

They are using a split flow for the core for the first time, that's what the stainless steel part is for.


----------



## Nichismo

I like alot of Aquacomputers products and LOVED my Aquaro 6XT, and my Airplex, but ive personally never been a fan of their waterblocks, and even moreso in the sense that they look too similar to "heatkiller" GPU waterblocks that WC makes, which im somewhat more fond of I must say in terms of overall aesthetics.

Regardless, I cant picture myself ever straying from EK











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That is pretty warm. Worst my loop has seen is 42c. That is with a 4790K at 5.0Ghz/1.42v, 1x 980 Ti Classy at 1540/8100Mhz 1.25v, 420mm of radiator, 5 fans (~1000rpm) and an ambient of 25c. I was running the Crysis 3 "skybox" test. Maybe if I did something like Furmark and Prime95 it would be worse... but I have a feeling neither of my processors would be stable for long enough to find out. If I run my fans at max RPM (2000-3000:bigeyedsm) then my water temps never go above the low 30c's. Those Noctua Industrials move a crap ton of air.
> 
> I have my system auto shutdown at 50c. I am pretty sure most pumps start to have issues when the temps get that high.
> 
> One question I do have is what is a "bad/good/great" delta temp at idle and load (in general, I know there are lots of variables)? At idle my delta is about +5-6c. Under load (and with the fans at 1000-1200rpm) I get around +8-12c.


Just curious.....

but what is the point of having any type of overclock or performance "specification" if you cant even take remotely full advantage of it without it instantly crashing your entire system?

I mean nowadays, everyone has their own definition of what constitutes "stable" for them, but if you are talking in terms of simple temps, 50c is nothing to worry about at all..... so many oversights and small boneheaded mistakes ive made in my time watercooling, components that were at 100c for minutes at minimum before I even noticed and ive never had any damage done to anything as a result whatsoever....

jus sayin.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I like alot of Aquacomputers products and LOVED my Aquaro 6XT, and my Airplex, but ive personally never been a fan of their waterblocks, and even moreso in the sense that they look too similar to "heatkiller" GPU waterblocks that WC makes, which im somewhat more fond of I must say in terms of overall aesthetics.
> 
> Regardless, I cant picture myself ever straying from EK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious.....
> 
> but what is the point of having any type of overclock or performance "specification" if you cant even take remotely full advantage of it without it instantly crashing your entire system?
> 
> I mean nowadays, everyone has their own definition of what constitutes "stable" for them, but if you are talking in terms of simple temps, 50c is nothing to worry about at all..... so many oversights and small boneheaded mistakes ive made in my time watercooling, components that were at 100c for minutes at minimum before I even noticed and ive never had any damage done to anything as a result whatsoever....
> 
> jus sayin.


I use OCCT X64/AVX/Line pack as my main stability test. XTU as well. That isn't my daily clock though, just for benching and stress testing like the situation I described. Day to day I run 4.8/1.3v which is stable everywhere.


----------



## Ithanul

Just be lucky you only got one 980Ti dumping heat.

Two of these bad boys become space heaters when doing Prime Grid.







That with three eLoops at 1800 rpms on the radiator and a 200mm cooler master mega flow. (I need to find me a faster 200mm fan)

Probably if I was to dare put full load on the 4770K (note, i don't even have this OC) and the two 980Tis (they at 1506MHz). The darn loop would get even hotter. So far the window AC keeping the rig happy atm at 42C with only four threads loaded and my Tis at full load. Glad I am buying two HWLab Black Ice 360s off an another peep here. Now the trick is modding the 915F to add it to my Haf X.


----------



## nabarun

added orange dye to my glass loop in my TJ11


----------



## TheCautiousOne

More in the Log







Going to take night shots later on.

TCO


----------



## Kimir

Looking good!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I like alot of Aquacomputers products and LOVED my Aquaro 6XT, and my Airplex, but ive personally never been a fan of their waterblocks, and even moreso in the sense that they look too similar to "heatkiller" GPU waterblocks that WC makes, which im somewhat more fond of I must say in terms of overall aesthetics.
> 
> but what is the point of having any type of overclock or performance "specification" if you cant even take remotely full advantage of it without it instantly crashing your entire system?
> 
> I mean nowadays, everyone has their own definition of what constitutes "stable" for them, but if you are talking in terms of simple temps, 50c is nothing to worry about at all..... so many oversights and small boneheaded mistakes ive made in my time watercooling, components that were at 100c for minutes at minimum before I even noticed and ive never had any damage done to anything as a result whatsoever....
> 
> jus sayin.


They mean 50c coolant temps, of course, and this is a sensible shut off point. I don't really see what you're saying about heatkiller blocks and AC blocks being so similar, but I've had blocks from all of these manufacturers (save BP and Koolance) and the Heatkiller are my favorite across the board.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Looking good!


I appreciate that, I forgot some of these.





TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

I know it's dye. But yet I cannot help but stare...









After much needed cleaning of her case, my mother is now a water cooler. PUT a Corsair AIO on her 1055 set to exhaust in Pull. I did it so she can easily maintain the dust buildup (okay more like *I* can







) in her system.

She was running my old 212 plus cooler. It definitely has seen better days. Dirt was so thickly embedded that it looked like she was building an Adobe wall in her system.









Didn't help that she plopped a filter over her 120 exhaust. She's been properly admonished on the use of filters. What's inside needscoop to escape. When I pulled that filter there was a cloud of dust that reminded me of the Dust Bowl era.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Yup,that sums it up nicely.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice another INWin for Bneg


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I appreciate that, I forgot some of these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The fluid looks stunning!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *I know it's dye. But yet I cannot help but stare...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> After much needed cleaning of her case, my mother is now a water cooler. PUT a Corsair AIO on her 1055 set to exhaust in Pull. I did it so she can easily maintain the dust buildup (okay more like *I* can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) in her system.
> 
> She was running my old 212 plus cooler. It definitely has seen better days. Dirt was so thickly embedded that it looked like she was building an Adobe wall in her system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't help that she plopped a filter over her 120 exhaust. She's been properly admonished on the use of filters. What's inside needscoop to escape. When I pulled that filter there was a cloud of dust that reminded me of the Dust Bowl era.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Glad you like!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> The fluid looks stunning!










Appreciate that.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Listen to the fade out for team UK......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Glad you like!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate that.
> 
> TCO


I need a blueberry icee now


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I need a blueberry icee now


Thanks Werm









TCO


----------



## emsj86

@TCO I need some pics of your friends face when he sees it. Specially being his first PC. You spoiled him. He may not know it but you just started a expensive hobby for him


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @TCO I need some pics of your friends face when he sees it. Specially being his first PC. You spoiled him. He may not know it but you just started a expensive hobby for him


He has a couple kids, so he may hold off on upgrading longer than others.









I will see If I can snag a pic of him and the computer tonight









TCO


----------



## emsj86

Yea kids def. do make justifying upgrades a lot harder. I have a three month baby girl and 3 year old boy my self


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Listen to the fade out for team UK......


Lmao good way to go out from the interview spot "Dont mind the sweat"

Have you put up a log on your case going to production?


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lmao good way to go out from the interview spot "Dont mind the sweat"
> 
> Have you put up a log on your case going to production?


I recall him saying that he will revel it in time.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## wermad

Cpu block bled properly? I had a pita of a time when i did parallel a few years ago.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

@TheCautiousOne

Build looks fantastic. The pastel blue looks great. Need something to cover those PSU cables though.

I just got finished adding a second MCP655 to my rig. Also lowered the res away from the GPU to make it look less cluttered. Still considering getting a dual D5 top and using a seperate res. This should do fine for now though. Need to neaten up the GPU cables and hide the wiring from the second pump a little better.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Cpu block bled properly? I had a pita of a time when i did parallel a few years ago.


It didn't give me a lick of problems









Though It was never drained in this build yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne
> 
> Build looks fantastic. The pastel blue looks great. Need something to cover those PSU cables though.
> 
> I just got finished adding a second MCP655 to my rig. Also lowered the res away from the GPU to make it look less cluttered. Still considering getting a dual D5 top and using a seperate res. This should do fine for now though. Need to neaten up the GPU cables and hide the wiring from the second pump a little better.


I honestly like the cables. I don't mind how they appear out of the PSU. Nor would I make a cover for them anyway









TCO


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I honestly like the cables. I don't mind how they appear out of the PSU. Nor would I make a cover for them anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


To each their own. As long as you like it, that's all that matters!


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Nice work man love the shade of coolant.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Really nice The Crazy One







How does it look at the back?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne
> 
> Build looks fantastic. The pastel blue looks great. Need something to cover those PSU cables though.
> 
> I just got finished adding a second MCP655 to my rig. Also lowered the res away from the GPU to make it look less cluttered. Still considering getting a dual D5 top and using a seperate res. This should do fine for now though. Need to neaten up the GPU cables and hide the wiring from the second pump a little better.


One EK pump should be plenty for your loop, how come you added another one? From what i've experienced, pump speed/water flow has very little cooling effect on the system...it's the rad and fans that removes the heat..when i had my pump on 80% and 50%, there was no temperature difference...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> To each their own. As long as you like it, that's all that matters!


More Like, As long as the Client Loves it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Nice work man love the shade of coolant.


All Natural!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Really nice The Crazy One
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does it look at the back?


Back isn't bad at all, just the two tubes routing to the rad, and the outlet from the pump. Wires are all together in a bundle right on the side of the SSD









TCO


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> One EK pump should be plenty for your loop, how come you added another one? From what i've experienced, pump speed/water flow has very little cooling effect on the system...it's the rad and fans that removes the heat..when i had my pump on 80% and 50%, there was no temperature difference...


Firstly, I did it for safety in case one pump dies I'll still have one that will keep flowing water through the loop. Secondly I am pushing through a UT60 360mm, an XT45 420mm, an ST30 240mm, the EK 980 Ti block, and the EK monoblock so I just wanted to insure my head pressure a little bit. Mostly I did it because I wanted to spend money


----------



## Trestles126

Just cleaned out my x2 some pics just for fun.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Firstly, I did it for safety in case one pump dies I'll still have one that will keep flowing water through the loop. Secondly I am pushing through a UT60 360mm, an XT45 420mm, an ST30 240mm, the EK 980 Ti block, and the EK monoblock so I just wanted to insure my head pressure a little bit. Mostly I did it because I wanted to spend money


ahhh my apologies, didn't know you had all those rads in there, i glanced at it and just see a 240mm lol...carry on sir


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> ahhh my apologies, didn't know you had all those rads in there, i glanced at it and just see a 240mm lol...carry on sir


Haha yep this case can be quite deceiving!


----------



## HackJoe

Finished this last night, in time for the GTX 1070 release. Just an overkill CPU loop, but it sure does play its part well. Looking forward to pushing my old 'sandy' back up to 4.8-5ghz 24/7.


...

...

...

...

...

Build log and plenty more photos HERE.

J.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Very nice, love Mayhems Mint Green/Nvidia green









Awaiting so Grizzly goodness - all thanks to winning a $25 gift card from Intel Retail Edge:


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


EXCITING!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Aquacomputer seems to be in row...Another interesting thing it just pop up:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3415&XTCsid=19knntrap5bemrsg5frrq5aqa75i5vob










for the initiative


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Aquacomputer seems to be in row...Another interesting thing it just pop up:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3415&XTCsid=19knntrap5bemrsg5frrq5aqa75i5vob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for the initiative


thats a nice kit! let the fella's over here know! I would but I feel like that'd be weird


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Aquacomputer seems to be in row...Another interesting thing it just pop up:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3415&XTCsid=19knntrap5bemrsg5frrq5aqa75i5vob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for the initiative


I might ask them for one....


----------



## battleaxe

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO






I love the black white and baby blue colors. Very tasty.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> 
> I love the black white and baby blue colors. Very tasty.












TCO


----------



## prznar1

Seeing all your amazing rigs, some with older parts i will feel no shame in presenting my stuff :> I cant wait to get my inwin 303.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Seeing all your amazing rigs, some with older parts i will feel no shame in presenting my stuff :> I cant wait to get my inwin 303.


Heck, nothing wrong with older hardware. As long as it does it job.









Myself I got a huge rebuild for my 24/7 folder rig planned. Still working on getting all the parts. But a nice old used 3930K on ASUS RIVBE going into it. Just glad I got my hands on the water blocks for the board.







Crazy thing, it going to look nice once I'm done, then it going into a corner and just fold all day again without being looked at.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Now for a second and some blockage.


----------



## guitarhero23

Any 1070 blocks yet? Akira said there would be news yesterday but I havent heard anything yet,.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Any 1070 blocks yet? Akira said there would be news yesterday but I havent heard anything yet,.


The reference PCB for the GTX 1070 and GTX 1080 is identical as far as watercooling support goes. If you don't mind the different name, if applicable, it should work.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Any 1070 blocks yet? Akira said there would be news yesterday but I havent heard anything yet,.


I saw Aquatuning had theirs up on their site already when I happened to be looking at it earlier today.


----------



## SteezyTN

I have a curious question, and it may sound stupid. I recently moved and the room is a lot smaller than before. The room gets hot so quick. Could adding more radiators to my loop solve the problem and cool it down a bit?


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have a curious question, and it may sound stupid. I recently moved and the room is a lot smaller than before. The room gets hot so quick. Could adding more radiators to my loop solve the problem and cool it down a bit?


Rads wont fix the ambient temp of the room which reflects the temp of the water. Look into a chiller.


----------



## prznar1

No matter what you do, you always hest up the air in the end. If your room is getting hot, you have to either scrap pc, or buy ac


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> No matter what you do, you always hest up the air in the end. If your room is getting hot, you have to either scrap pc, or buy ac


Or put the rads in a window blowing the hot air outside, ghetto style.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> If I had a dollar for every Parvum build where the Res/Pump is attached to the floor of the case :-/
> Rads wont fix the ambient temp of the room which reflects the temp of the water. Look into a chiller.


A chiller will cool the loop better but will dump even more heat into the room making the room even hotter than before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have a curious question, and it may sound stupid. I recently moved and the room is a lot smaller than before. The room gets hot so quick. Could adding more radiators to my loop solve the problem and cool it down a bit?


I'd say that a window a/c unit would be your easiest/simplest solution to cooling both your loop and the room the pc is in


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have a curious question, and it may sound stupid. I recently moved and the room is a lot smaller than before. The room gets hot so quick. Could adding more radiators to my loop solve the problem and cool it down a bit?


Law of conservation of energy, the components will run cooker but the same amount of heat will be exhausted into the room, the difference in temperature vs air cooling is reflected by the increase in water temperature from ambient when you load the system


----------



## RavageTheEarth




----------



## mus1mus

Is the idea any new?

crissakes, AIOs are like that.

Come on guys.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Is the idea any new?
> 
> crissakes, AIOs are like that.
> 
> Come on guys.


But AIOs are sealed units(cept for a couple) that are filled until there is next to no air in the loop. I don't know if they undergo leaktesting but I assume they do. But you're right the concept is not all that new. We do have a couple members who've built SFF loops where the Res isn't directly feeding the pump.









~Ceadder


----------



## mus1mus

True.

In other words, there's no need to quarrel about the stuff. It's doable. And therefore feasible.

--- this is not a rebuttal to you.


----------



## prznar1

The deal with reservoir over pump is just and only about easier way of filling the loop. You can store way lot of fluid in it than in just a tube and it makes filling the loop easier. Nothing more.


----------



## rck1984

Some recent pictures of my EK cooled system:









Still pondering a mono-block...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> The deal with reservoir over pump is just and only about easier way of filling the loop. You can store way lot of fluid in it than in just a tube and *it makes filling the loop easier. Nothing more*.


Actually, . .

It has a much more important reason for being there . . . whether directly before the pump, or anywhere else.

It, along with the airspace in in, allows the coolant to expand with rising temps and contract with cooler temps without putting undue stress on tubing connections.

AIOs manage that task by using either accordion tubing, or something with more than normal stretchiness.

A hard tubed build with no res or air space is going to be a problem when the coolant gets warm enough to have expanded by more than a few ml.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually, . .
> 
> It has a much more important reason for being there . . . whether directly before the pump, or anywhere else.
> 
> It, along with the airspace in in, allows the coolant to expand with rising temps and contract with cooler temps without putting undue stress on tubing connections.
> 
> *AIOs manage that task by using either accordion tubing, or something with more than normal stretchiness.
> *
> 
> A hard tubed build with no res or air space is going to be a problem when the coolant gets warm enough to have expanded by more than a few ml.
> 
> Darlene


They leave an air gap,you can hear it in most AIO's as they 'slosh' when shaken.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I'd say that a window a/c unit would be your easiest/simplest solution to cooling both your loop and the room the pc is in


Yeah, window AC does wonders. Just sucks that the only thing cooling the place here. Thankfully I got my water loop temp back under control. Though, the Tis are still going toasty.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, window AC does wonders. Just sucks that the only thing cooling the place here. Thankfully I got my water loop temp back under control. Though, the Tis are still going toasty.


Adding more radiators?


----------



## ozzy1925

I am planing to change my graphic cards and want to change my liquid from mayhems white to distilled water.Should i add this?
https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Liquid-Utopia-15ml-Bottle/dp/B00CDXQ22M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465759389&sr=8-5&keywords=Primochill

Or use with distilled only?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I am planing to change my graphic cards and want to change my liquid from mayhems white to distilled water.Should i add this?
> https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Liquid-Utopia-15ml-Bottle/dp/B00CDXQ22M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465759389&sr=8-5&keywords=Primochill
> 
> Or use with distilled only?


Questions regarding Mayhem liquids in any form and shape should be asked at their thread.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I am planing to change my graphic cards and want to change my liquid from mayhems white to distilled water.Should i add this?
> https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Liquid-Utopia-15ml-Bottle/dp/B00CDXQ22M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465759389&sr=8-5&keywords=Primochill
> 
> Or use with distilled only?


Wermad runs distilled, and I do right now also with no additives. Shouldnt be a problem









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Questions regarding Mayhem liquids in any form and shape should be asked at their thread.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club


Not necessarily there quickdraw









TCO


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wermad runs distilled, and I do right now also with no additives. Shouldnt be a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not necessarily there quickdraw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thanks ,will be safe for 1 year without changing the fluid?


----------



## wermad

Any recommendations for good 140 rad/fan combos? I'm researching 140 rads and I did have some UT60s with Cougar fans a few years back, but things have expanded more recently, especially with fans. I'm trying to keep it small, well small'ish, and under budget. I can't really splurge since most of my money is going towards my gpu's (quad 980 Ti's







).

I'm well aware of 120s and the greater availability. I'm on the lookout for something different if I can. I feel the need to try 140s again.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I am planing to change my graphic cards and want to change my liquid from mayhems white to distilled water.Should i add this?
> https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Liquid-Utopia-15ml-Bottle/dp/B00CDXQ22M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465759389&sr=8-5&keywords=Primochill
> 
> Or use with distilled only?


Distilled or De-Ionized water is fine.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Any recommendations for good 140 rad/fan combos? I'm researching 140 rads and I did have some UT60s with Cougar fans a few years back, but things have expanded more recently, especially with fans. I'm trying to keep it small, well small'ish, and under budget. I can't really splurge since most of my money is going towards my gpu's (quad 980 Ti's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I'm well aware of 120s and the greater availability. I'm on the lookout for something different if I can. I feel the need to try 140s again.


Here in the UK 140s are pretty sparse, EK Vardar's seem to be alright but in all honesty I don't really know of many 140s with static pressure in mind.


----------



## eucalyptus

Have anyone experience from or seen these in action?
Do they have any impact on the flow rate?









I will have around 12-16 flow meters/indicators divided into 2 loops in my next project


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Distilled or De-Ionized water is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here in the UK 140s are pretty sparse, EK Vardar's seem to be alright but in all honesty I don't really know of many 140s with static pressure in mind.


Tnx







I've been reading up on TB and XR reviews and there's a bunch of new fans compared to when I last tried them. I have a couple of 560s right now and they were in use with 120s.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Have anyone experience from or seen these in action?
> Do they have any impact on the flow rate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have around 12-16 flow meters/indicators divided into 2 loops in my next project


Wow, that's a lot of flow meters. My guess, is the resistance of the impeller should be minimal and few of them should have no major issues as long as you have some good pumping power. I have a barrow one (BP like clone) and its great for the aesthetics of the loop.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Have anyone experience from or seen these in action?
> Do they have any impact on the flow rate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I will have around 12-16 flow meters/indicators* divided into 2 loops in my next project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The Flow indicators are sick, although 12 - 16 of them is quite ridiculous









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tnx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been reading up on TB and XR reviews and there's a bunch of new fans compared to when I last tried them. I have a couple of 560s right now and they were in use with 120s.
> Wow, that's a lot of flow meters. My guess, is the resistance of the impeller should be minimal and few of them should have no major issues as long as you have some good pumping power. I have a *barrow one (BP like clone*) and its great for the aesthetics of the loop.


I still cant get over the whole Barrow idea... I have tried to ration with my mind saying "Ah, well it's a little less expensive and could be just as good product-wise" but then I go to purchase fittings, and Barrow is never typed nor purchased









TCO

EDIT: Oh and about people getting frisky in Here


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Adding more radiators?


When I can get around to it. That requires tearing my main rig apart and modding the 915F to it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Flow indicators are sick, although 12 - 16 of them is quite ridiculous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still cant get over the whole Barrow idea... I have tried to ration with my mind saying "Ah, well it's a little less expensive and could be just as good product-wise" but then I go to purchase fittings, and Barrow is never typed nor purchased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I think the problem is ppl still think they're the early US-market Hyundai: cheap, cloning/stealing-looks, and inexpensive. But, just like today's Hyundai, Barrow has come a long way and is really up there, despite some items looking like others. I dispelled my worries by talking to those who have bought Barrow through out the years. I have not have a single quality issue with the parts I bought in December/January recently.

Ultimately, if you made your statement that you won't buy them, that should be it. For those of us who like them and will buy and recommend them, we can continue to preach. Just remember, BP is not perfect (recent nickel failures, average cpu and radiator performance, etc.)









TWG (The wermad guy)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Or just buy EK which are cheaper and better looking....


----------



## wermad

I keep reminding myself that the Supremacy Evo's performance is worth it over the bland, plain-jane looks. Otherwise, i wouldn't touch it tbh. Bitspower does have a better looking cpu block, but I rather put performance in front. Why no big EK on the blocks no more eddy


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I think the problem is ppl still think they're the early US-market Hyundai: cheap, cloning/stealing-looks, and inexpensive. But, just like today's Hyundai, Barrow has come a long way and is really up there, despite some items looking like others. I dispelled my worries by talking to those who have bought Barrow through out the years. I have not have a single quality issue with the parts I bought in December/January recently.
> 
> *Ultimately, if you made your statement that you won't buy them, that should be it*. For those of us who like them and will buy and recommend them, we can continue to preach. Just remember, BP is not perfect (recent nickel failures, average cpu and radiator performance, etc.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWG (The wermad guy)


TWG, I understand the position, I do, and I love you for that and always will, though just as you preach for a person to buy I can do the same although my opinion is opposite. Nothing wrong with that. I expected you to respond, as you always will when a person says that they don't like Barrow. I would expect nothing less.

But this is buisness. And the watercooling buisness is Good.

Good for options, good for opinions, and good/bad for the wallet.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or just buy EK which are cheaper and better looking....


Show me a fitting From EK that isn't a compression fitting that is equivalent to a C47. I have looked an cannot find anything close.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I keep reminding myself that the Supremacy Evo's performance is worth it over the bland, plain-jane looks. Otherwise, i wouldn't touch it tbh. Bitspower does have a better looking cpu block, but I rather put performance in front. Why no big EK on the blocks no more eddy


I am in the same boat about the Bitspower block, but I am with you on the performance aspect of them. The White Summit Block by Bitspower is... well... I think If I go any further, the pants would come off









TCO


----------



## Ithanul

Huh, The Evo's looks plain? O well, I always prefer a more slick clean look. Reason I love my EK full cover blocks that are solid black. Nice and clean looking. No frills or fluff.

Has that sleeper truck look to it.







Though that nickel one looks darn smexy.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Huh, The Evo's looks plain? O well, I always prefer a more slick clean look. Reason I love my EK full cover blocks that are solid black. Nice and clean looking. No frills or fluff.
> 
> Has that sleeper truck look to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though that nickel one looks darn smexy.


Pretty sure they sell an EK supremacy evo with an acetal (Black) top.

TCO

EDIT:



Point being that you need not go fullcover to get that "look"


----------



## Gabrielzm

Guys I am a little weary of two things. 1) The bitterness and intolerance in this thread. I am not pointing fingers to anyone here but I will remind you that this is a pretty open club where questions about all aspects of WC are usually welcome. It is not a help thread and if someone need that kind of detailed help (hey can you help me planning and shopping list WC parts) would be better off opening a separate thread but other than that we a pretty easy going with questions or at least it always have been my perception over the years here. 2) The common recommendation of distil only for long periods. People seems to forget that other people and components vary in quality as well as degree of OCD. In other words, if someone is not very experienced and was not very careful with loop preparation and cleanness, if pc is close to a window with sunlight and so on distil will fail and you might end up with growth inside or even worse. So, I am a little weary of those generalizations. yes you will be fine for a while with distil. until the person is not fine because her finger were not clean, because she/he blow with her mouth in the tube, beacuse the pc was on a windows with direct sunlight, because the plating was bad on a second hand block and so on and on...So, I would be more cautions with such generalizations and recommendations just mine







since the safe path is to use some sort of biocide and anti corrosive (either pre-mixed or mixed by the user)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or just buy EK which are cheaper and better looking....


Yep. And honestly, the ek one looks a lot more like barrow than barrow looks like bitspower, both physically in dimensions as well as in design/shape/form. Although the 90 and 45 degrees from ek (the AF line) are a lot more prone to leaks that the old ones. From 20 or 30 pieces I had at least 3 maybe 4 pieces leaking from the internal rings. Bitspower is not foolproof either out of maybe 100 pieces of 90 and 45 over the years I had at least 2 failing on me or damaged right of the plastic bag. But the fail rate seems a lot lower.

Anyway I wrote a lot (which is unusual for me) and its just mine







guys..


----------



## wermad

(my first ek cpu block)


(my favorite looking one)


(second favorite looking one, strangely...)




(my future block, my ocn-ocd calls for matching blocks







)


----------



## prznar1

EK, EK, EK....

This is what im using. Back in the time it was way better then similar solution from other companies, for pretty much same price.



Wanted to build ek free build, but i guess ill have to go with revo d5 top. There is nothing similar to it. :C


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 2) The common recommendation of distil only for long periods. People seems to forget that other people and components vary in quality as well as degree of OCD. In other words, if someone is not very experienced and was not very careful with loop preparation and cleanness, if pc is close to a window with sunlight and so on distil will fail and you might end up with growth inside or even worse. So, I am a little weary of those generalizations. yes you will be fine for a while with distil. until the person is not fine because her finger were not clean, *because she/he blow with her mouth in the tube,*
> Anyway I wrote a lot (which is unusual for me) and its just mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guys..




Yea...... I might not be the best advocate about being Cautious (Ironically)









TCO


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> EK, EK, EK....
> 
> This is what im using. Back in the time it was way better then similar solution from other companies, for pretty much same price.
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to build ek free build, but i guess ill have to go with revo d5 top. There is nothing similar to it. :C


I highly recommend Alphacool D5 top. Plexi version looks so good and you have more flexibility in terms of in/out ports.


----------



## wermad

I so wanted the new IV Pro acetal/ss-inserts, but being more expensive and not a comprehensive kit like the Supremacy Evo, I chose the Evo. Its one of those situations where different brand blocks can be paired nicely imho.

Still waiting:



Barrow fittings in the middle


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I highly recommend Alphacool D5 top. Plexi version looks so good and you have more flexibility in terms of in/out ports.


Well revo have that tubish desigh. Wish there was bit more of those things from other companies.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I so wanted the new IV Pro acetal/ss-inserts, but being more expensive and not a comprehensive kit like the Supremacy Evo, I chose the Evo. Its one of those situations where different brand blocks can be paired nicely imho.
> 
> Still waiting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Barrow fittings in the middle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *




TCO


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I highly recommend Alphacool D5 top. Plexi version looks so good and you have more flexibility in terms of in/out ports.
> 
> 
> 
> Well revo have that tubish desigh. Wish there was bit more of those things from other companies.
Click to expand...

MMRS FTW!


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> MMRS FTW!


Maguire's Motocross Racing Series??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Just sold the two on the right (copper). I bought them first, then got two nickel ones, and then found two new nickel ones for a great price. Majority rules, so the copper ones had to go after I sorted out the missing parts I discovered when i got them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I highly recommend Alphacool D5 top. Plexi version looks so good and you have more flexibility in terms of in/out ports.
> 
> 
> 
> Well revo have that tubish desigh. Wish there was bit more of those things from other companies.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> MMRS FTW!
Click to expand...




















~Ceadder


----------



## prznar1

Oh monsoon? Well its not available in Poland. And i think its ugly. Like most things they do. Just dont like their design, at all.


----------



## muzammil84

very poor and only pic of Alphacool d5 top from my last build


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Oh monsoon? Well its not available in Poland. And i think its ugly. Like most things they do. Just dont like their design, at all.


L O L!

Ugly? They are a very unique in many different ways, in form of manufacturing and design. But they are definitely not ugly







But okay, that's your opinion









Just wonder what sides of Monsoon you have seen?


----------



## prznar1

I like industrial look over flashy things. What can i do with it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I like industrial look over flashy things. What can i do with it


Appreciate the talent, skills, and vision that went into creating it, even if the aesthetic isn't your style . . . .

Slap a bunch of black crap together and bingo, . . industrial look.

For as many as like the "industrial look" . . . there's plenty of us who actually worked in industry and can't stand it any more . . .

Light, artsy, and colorful for me, thank you . .

Darlene


----------



## LandonAaron

I have a Swiftech MCP50x pump that is powered by a 12v molex cable and uses a separate 4 pin PWM fan cable for speed control and RPM reporting. I need to run the pump with the computer turned off, when doing maintenance on the loop (filling and draining, that sort of thing), but it seems that without the PWM signal the pump doesn't spin up at all. What can I do to fake a PWM signal to get the pump running with the computer off?


----------



## prznar1

Oh i do. Some systems are great. But you cant force me to like everything. Can you?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have a Swiftech MCP50x pump that is powered by a 12v molex cable and uses a separate 4 pin PWM fan cable for speed control and RPM reporting. I need to run the pump with the computer turned off, when doing maintenance on the loop (filling and draining, that sort of thing), but it seems that without the PWM signal the pump doesn't spin up at all. What can I do to fake a PWM signal to get the pump running with the computer off?


Did you try jumping the psu?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have a Swiftech MCP50x pump that is powered by a 12v molex cable and uses a separate 4 pin PWM fan cable for speed control and RPM reporting. I need to run the pump with the computer turned off, when doing maintenance on the loop (filling and draining, that sort of thing), but it seems that without the PWM signal the pump doesn't spin up at all. What can I do to fake a PWM signal to get the pump running with the computer off?


If you normally have the 4 pin PWM/tach connector plugged to the mobo, try running the pump with the computer off and that disconnected from the mobo.

That's usually an issue sometimes with the PWM D5, but could be with the 50X as well.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have a Swiftech MCP50x pump that is powered by a 12v molex cable and uses a separate 4 pin PWM fan cable for speed control and RPM reporting. I need to run the pump with the computer turned off, when doing maintenance on the loop (filling and draining, that sort of thing), but it seems that without the PWM signal the pump doesn't spin up at all. What can I do to fake a PWM signal to get the pump running with the computer off?


User RebelHell made a device here if running the pump with no cable plugged in doesn't do the trick. It might be a lot of work but its there!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> When I can get around to it. That requires tearing my main rig apart and modding the 915F to it.


I vote MO-RA because silliness. And insane amount of radiator,with no modding required. .... Says the guy who keeps dancing about as to whether he wants such or not when he finally goes watercooled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> EK, EK, EK....
> 
> This is what im using. Back in the time it was way better then similar solution from other companies, for pretty much same price.
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to build ek free build, but i guess ill have to go with revo d5 top. There is nothing similar to it. :C


Watercool was teasing an incredibly sexy new reservoir they're coming out with.

http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/510#post_25211045

And

http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/510#post_25222359

Are examples. I'm on mobile, but there are more a few posts earlier showing off the entire new line.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> EK, EK, EK....
> 
> This is what im using. Back in the time it was way better then similar solution from other companies, for pretty much same price.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to build ek free build, but i guess ill have to go with revo d5 top. There is nothing similar to it. :C


O, those are nice too. I really like the nickle and cooper version. They look so industrial style. Even though I worked around aircraft several years. I still just love the look of metal pipes, copper, etc.


----------



## Radnad

That Watercool res is definitely unique, nice clean elegant lines. I'm just a huge fan of the modularity of the MMRS, because of its customization and adaptability it really could be the last res you'll ever need.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (my first ek cpu block)
> 
> 
> (my favorite looking one)
> 
> 
> (second favorite looking one, strangely...)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (my future block, my ocn-ocd calls for matching blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Last two blocks are so boring.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Last two blocks are so boring.


You being serious bro?!


----------



## wermad

I have to agree. But hey, it makes up the bland looks (imho) with great thermals.


----------



## Ithanul

Crud if they look boring to you then there is these kits for the MX one.




Me, I am just not into glowly all over my case.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I am planing to change my graphic cards and want to change my liquid from mayhems white to distilled water.Should i add this?
> https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Liquid-Utopia-15ml-Bottle/dp/B00CDXQ22M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465759389&sr=8-5&keywords=Primochill
> 
> Or use with distilled only?


I have had good luck using that product for over a year now. I've changed out the liquid two times to change my loop order and such. since you only need a small amount, i'm still on my first bottle (my loop holds ~700mL). One 15mL bottle is good for 1 US Gallon (~3785mL). The second time i flushed the loop I cleaned out my cpu water block. There was no corrosion or algae growth, but there was a very thin greasy layer that I assumed was from the tubing plasticiser. It cleaned right off with warm water and toothbrush. I've never tried running my loop with just distilled so I cant make a comparison, but better safe than sorry.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> You being serious bro?!


Fo real bro. Definitely peaked w/ the Supreme HF. CSQ was still hot. But the clean CSQ is just boring.









I'll take a 5C increase in temps any day and keep using this sexy thang.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Fo real bro. Definitely peaked w/ the Supreme HF. CSQ was still hot. But the clean CSQ is just boring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take a 5C increase in temps any day and keep using this sexy thang.


Alright fair enough! Your builds are always so clean and simple I couldn't tell.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well finally decided to break down JAC's loop for maintenance an swap out for EK ZMT, ran Mayhems X1 blood red fluid for the year.


So after looking at the gpu block I'm inclined to pull the tile off the BitsPower "mono" block setup after seeing this:
(Also any tips on what I should use to clean the block(s) with?)

Strange thing is that my temps have been phenomenal over-all- gpu never went above 45c under full load and CPU won't peek above 65c under full load (running [email protected])


----------



## lowfat

Soap and water w/ a tooth brush first. Then a metal polish w/ a soft toothbrush.


----------



## wermad

Hot water and a brush; then try nickel polish or the dilutted vinager solution for the stubborn stuff. Gl


----------



## Bogga

Which colors beside red are tough ones? I decided to go with white instead of red in my coming build because of all these problems with the red...


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I vote MO-RA because silliness. And insane amount of radiator,with no modding required. .... Says the guy who keeps dancing about as to whether he wants such or not when he finally goes watercooled.
> Watercool was teasing an incredibly sexy new reservoir they're coming out with.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/510#post_25211045
> 
> And
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/510#post_25222359
> 
> Are examples. I'm on mobile, but there are more a few posts earlier showing off the entire new line.


nonononono. I will not buy 3rd res







no.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I vote MO-RA because silliness. And insane amount of radiator,with no modding required. .... Says the guy who keeps dancing about as to whether he wants such or not when he finally goes watercooled.
> Watercool was teasing an incredibly sexy new reservoir they're coming out with.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/510#post_25211045
> 
> And
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/510#post_25222359
> 
> Are examples. I'm on mobile, but there are more a few posts earlier showing off the entire new line.


oh my!
I just bought Alphacool Eisbecher D5








this is one awesome reservoir and it would match my Heatkiller iv pro cpu block perfectly


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Soap and water w/ a tooth brush first. Then a metal polish w/ a soft toothbrush.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hot water and a brush; then try nickel polish or the dilutted vinager solution for the stubborn stuff. Gl


Cool thanks, I can definitely say it will be a while before I use Blood Red X1 again lol. But it did look great for a while (until around a month ago when it turned TCO purple







. )


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Nothing beats the thrill of leak testing after your just put your baby to sleep and have no idea when they'll wake up... luckily within the hour was filled, bleed and identified one compression fittings I forgot to fully tighten of place holding and a fitting that had weight on needed some hard tightening love


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well finally decided to break down JAC's loop for maintenance an swap out for EK ZMT, ran Mayhems X1 blood red fluid for the year.
> 
> 
> So after looking at the gpu block I'm inclined to pull the tile off the BitsPower "mono" block setup after seeing this:
> (Also any tips on what I should use to clean the block(s) with?)
> 
> Strange thing is that my temps have been phenomenal over-all- gpu never went above 45c under full load and CPU won't peek above 65c under full load (running [email protected])


Hey dude, check those blocks under the bitspower FC if ya haven't already. I had some heavy corrosion in my mosfet block and lead to to ditching the unit all together :-/ I have actually heard of a few guying having this issue with these BP FC Blocks.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Hey Guys and Gals,
Who should I contact in order to make a warranty claim and/or ask some questions about my Swiftech MCP50X?
Thanks in advance,
Otis


----------



## VSG

Swiftech hasn't had any online presence here in a while so you may have to directly contact them via their website instructions.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Nothing beats the thrill of leak testing after your just put your baby to sleep and have no idea when they'll wake up... luckily within the hour was filled, bleed and identified one compression fittings I forgot to fully tighten of place holding and a fitting that had weight on needed some hard tightening love


Enjoy it while you can. My 1 year old is everywhere and nowhere all at once. I have to wait to do anything build related while he's napping. Pretty soon I won't be able to put him in his play pen. He'll simply climb right out and that is fast coming along.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech hasn't had any online presence here in a while so you may have to directly contact them via their website instructions.


This. +Rep to VSG for beating me to the punch.









~Ceadder


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech hasn't had any online presence here in a while so you may have to directly contact them via their website instructions.


I thought they are gone when everyone started to buy things only from EK.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I thought they are gone when everyone started to buy things only from EK.


Bryan changed Jobs=No more Swiftech online support.

Who buys that gear anyway?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I thought they are gone when everyone started to buy things only from EK.


They had Ren (@Dango) for a while after Bryan left but it seems he is not active/with Swiftech anymore. Ironically, someone who used to be with EK is now handling sales and marketing for Swiftech


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Which colors beside red are tough ones? I decided to go with white instead of red in my coming build because of all these problems with the red...


Even white has its side effects sometimes. You could go with lighting if you dont want to deal with colored coolant


----------



## derickwm

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I thought they are gone when everyone started to buy things only from EK.
> 
> 
> 
> They had Ren (@Dango) for a while after Bryan left but it seems he is not active/with Swiftech anymore. Ironically, someone who used to be with EK is now handling sales and marketing for Swiftech
Click to expand...

It wasn't me


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I thought they are gone when everyone started to buy things only from EK.
> 
> 
> 
> Bryan changed Jobs=No more Swiftech online support.
> 
> Who buys that gear anyway?
Click to expand...

I have purchased their 240/360 mount. It sucks. The radiator mounting holes do *not* line up properly with the holes of a Radiator. Sucks when you have to mod something that is supposed to fit an accepted manufactured process.

Also purchased and had modified 2 of their 6950/6870 heatsinks to allow Thermospheres to mount into them and on my GPUs. Which I have to say they did a reasonable job with those(prior to modding them) because they fit the cards properly before and after the process.









But I do agree with you. If I coulda got the L bracket mount and Heatsinks from EK, I'da been all over those instead.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech hasn't had any online presence here in a while so you may have to directly contact them via their website instructions.


i know, i wonder why ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Hey dude, check those blocks under the bitspower FC if ya haven't already. I had some heavy corrosion in my mosfet block and lead to to ditching the unit all together :-/ I have actually heard of a few guying having this issue with these BP FC Blocks.


I was flushing them with the tile off to get some of the X1 out, plan on opening them up since the CPU block appeared questionable. Good thing I have other CPU blocks at my disposal


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know, i wonder why ?


Because OCN changed a lot. Most of the manufacturer forums disappeared.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok well I'm pissed at what I found on my BitsPower monoblock set, definitely shooting an email over to them on this crap. As I used Mayhems X1 and flushed the hell out of the rads prior to using with X1.
So here are my findings on the blocks and why I'm pissed:
CPU Block

South block components (thanks to a crappy coating job I noticed the coat was bubbling up which is a sign of moisture breach/corrosion)



I have one more block to inspect but after this I'm done with BitsPower's products

I'm just glad I still have my Aquacomputers block from an 1150 build that looks like it will match up mounting on my 2011-v3, so now to install the stock coolers and call it a day for now unless I can find a steal on some mobo blocks


----------



## lklem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Ok well I'm pissed at what I found on my BitsPower monoblock set, definitely shooting an email over to them on this crap. As I used Mayhems X1 and flushed the hell out of the rads prior to using with X1.
> So here are my findings on the blocks and why I'm pissed:
> CPU Block
> 
> South block components (thanks to a crappy coating job I noticed the coat was bubbling up which is a sign of moisture breach/corrosion)
> 
> 
> 
> I have one more block to inspect but after this I'm done with BitsPower's products
> 
> I'm just glad I still have my Aquacomputers block from an 1150 build that looks like it will match up mounting on my 2011-v3, so now to install the stock coolers and call it a day for now unless I can find a steal on some mobo blocks


You definitely not the first one, I also have this issue (http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/96710#post_25049835), I RMA the blocks & they send me the new replacement, this time I only use the VRM & PCH blocks, CPU block I change to EK Supremacy EVO block, unfortunately the VRM block still facing the same issue since only used for couple of weeks, in future I will never buy any BP block.


----------



## realtomatoes

[quote name="lklem" I RMA the blocks & they send me the new replacement, this time I only use the VRM & PCH blocks, CPU block I change to EK Supremacy EVO block, unfortunately the VRM block still facing the same issue since only used for couple of weeks, in future I will never buy any BP block.[/quote]

Is it a known issue with bp blocks?

*edit spelling


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *realtomatoes*
> 
> [quote name="lklem" I RMA the blocks & they send me the new replacement, this time I only use the VRM & PCH blocks, CPU block I change to EK Supremacy EVO block, unfortunately the VRM block still facing the same issue since only used for its of weeks, in future I will never buy any BP block.


Is it a known issue with bp blocks?

*edit spelling[/quote]

Its certainly an issue with mine,I ditched Bitspower as a sponsor because of it,I will not use nor promote products I wouldn't buy myself.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Is it a known issue with bp blocks?
> 
> *edit spelling
> 
> Its certainly an issue with mine,I ditched Bitspower as a sponsor because of it,I will not use nor promote products I wouldn't buy myself.


Daaaaaaauym, the moment when you can ditch sponsors like Bitspower, then you know you are a well-known/established elite-modder in the modding-scene























But I completely agree with you! I only use the products I really like! And when it comes to sponsors, which I do have now for my second project, I only chose products I personally REALLY like and without questions would pay for myself if I wouldn't be sponsored with them. So I make clear with the companies I am working with that I will use other brands and products I may prefer over theirs. I know this could be a big issue with some companies, but you have to meet somewhere in the middle I guess.

And Congrats for the success in the Taiwan!







Thumbs up buddy


----------



## VSG

How long did it take for you guys to see the issues?


----------



## prznar1

i see that bits is still on the low side in terms of quality. Friend of mine had bp rampage 2 block. Cooling performance was crap, so he took it aprat. What he found is just a fluid passage, no fins or anything else to expand the heat transfering area. The moment he saw that, he just tossed it to trash bin.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *realtomatoes*
> 
> [quote name="lklem" I RMA the blocks & they send me the new replacement, this time I only use the VRM & PCH blocks, CPU block I change to EK Supremacy EVO block, unfortunately the VRM block still facing the same issue since only used for its of weeks, in future I will never buy any BP block.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it a known issue with bp blocks?
> 
> *edit spelling
Click to expand...

Its certainly an issue with mine,I ditched Bitspower as a sponsor because of it,I will not use nor promote products I wouldn't buy myself.[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How long did it take for you guys to see the issues?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> i see that bits is still on the low side in terms of quality. Friend of mine had bp rampage 2 block. Cooling performance was crap, so he took it aprat. What he found is just a fluid passage, no fins or anything else to expand the heat transfering area. The moment he saw that, he just tossed it to trash bin.






Just to be clear, is it only the mobo blocks that have problems? I have a BP GPU acrylic nickel block in my sig rig and never had an issue with it, nor have I ever heard anything bad about the GPU blocks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Daaaaaaauym, the moment when you can ditch sponsors like Bitspower, then you know you are a well-known/established elite-modder in the modding-scene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I completely agree with you! I only use the products I really like! And when it comes to sponsors, which I do have now for my second project, I only chose products I personally REALLY like and without questions would pay for myself if I wouldn't be sponsored with them. So I make clear with the companies I am working with that I will use other brands and products I may prefer over theirs. I know this could be a big issue with some companies, but you have to meet somewhere in the middle I guess.
> 
> And Congrats for the success in the Taiwan!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thumbs up buddy


Bitspower is no different to anyone else,I will not support mediocrity...even if its given to me.

Your approach is sound,stick to it best you can and it will reap you rewards.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How long did it take for you guys to see the issues?


2 weeks,with Micks fluid in it. I saw the problem when rebuilding it after the disaster that befell it...
Only the cpu block but I think its significantly worse now....CBA to strip it and check tho.


----------



## lklem

This is the new replacement from RMA, it started to corrode right after 2 weeks being used, the actual situation now (which is 1month) is getting worst, I complaint again to them but seem like they can't do anything.


----------



## prznar1

Do you have only nickle plated blocks in loop?


----------



## lklem

Yes, cpu block is using EK full nickel while gpu block is EK nickel acetal


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> ^^^
> I had my Mosfet block do the same thing. Distilled with the correct additives as well. Was the only piece that did that. I ditched the FC block and went back to EK.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Or Aquacomputer









But looks like I'll be shooting a message off to BitsPower for the waterblocks (mobo) and I'll be removing the block from the 970 and hope it cleans up well or else I'll be sending it in for RMA as well, which sucks since that's the card I'm trying to sell with the block and stock cooler (I wouldn't feel right about selling it with a known bad block even though it still cools perfectly)


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lklem*
> 
> Yes, cpu block is using EK full nickel while gpu block is EK nickel acetal


Then its nothing more but a bad quality of nickel plating. I would like to get full refund.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


Lol, D you made my day


----------



## VSG

New discount codes for PPCs:
Quote:


> This Sunday June 19th is Father's Day. Fathers deserve a day just for them to be pampered and spoiled by the entire family. If your dad is also a techie, then what better way to celebrate the weekend, and this summer with some really cool new PC hardware and Mod DIY gear? Let's make sure to treat pops right!
> 
> A little motivation to get Dad his watercooling and DIY gear with these coupons:
> 
> Spend $50 get 6% off Code: "FATHER16-6"
> Spend $250 get 8% off Code: " FATHER16-8"
> Spend $500 get 10% off Code: " FATHER16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from June 14th through June 20th 2016. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New discount codes for PPCs:


Thank you! I needed this.


----------



## Ithanul

Ooo, goody, been waiting since I knew some would show up here soon.

Need to get a few things to get a build going.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just in time, since I was stripping the RVE I decided to swap it out thanks to my protection plan:

New mobo,


----------



## fast_fate

Detailed review just posted with plenty plenty info on the MMRS, particularly the MMRS-TRP D5 pump adapter


----------



## saxovtsmike

My Corsair 600C

Maximus VIII Formula
6700K
Corsair Dominator
EVGA 980Ti

EKWB Pump/Res Combo
Heatkiller 3.0
Watercool XL GPU Block
Bitspower Fittings
Tygon Softtubing R3603
Aquacomputer DP-Ultra Clear


----------



## Wolfsbora

Guess who's coming to the Overclock.net Podcast: LIVE studio tomorrow night??? That's right! *EKWB will be joining us, and in fact, it will be our very own @derickwm, the managing director for EKWB USA!*











Check it out LIVE on TWITCH @ 9pm EST tomorrow night (Thursday)! twitch.tv/overclocktv


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello y'all.

I am changing my loop and will be using the EK multiport top on my D5 X-res.



Can someone give me some advice on what to get in regard of the internal tube? I want to use the top port on the reservoir as the inlet.
Do I only need a short tube in the top? These are needed to make sure nog air is pumped in the loop, right?


----------



## eucalyptus

I have a question. Is it possible to mix between 16mm and 13mm tubing in a custom loop? Won't make any flow-issues or similar?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hello y'all.
> 
> I am changing my loop and will be using the EK multiport top on my D5 X-res.
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone give me some advice on what to get in regard of the internal tube? I want to use the top port on the reservoir as the inlet.
> Do I only need a short tube in the top? These are needed to make sure nog air is pumped in the loop, right?


Tricky, I found a X3 Inlet Tube for the Multi port top, but you need to make sure the top you have isn't a different Revision.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-ek-res-x3-tube-150-104mm.html

I've purchased a Bitspower Aquapipe thinking the threading on the inside of the top was the same, needless to say... it wasn't














Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I have a question. Is it possible to mix between 16mm and 13mm tubing in a custom loop? Won't make any flow-issues or similar?


Shouldn't be a problem.

TCO


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just in time, since I was stripping the RVE I decided to swap it out thanks to my protection plan:
> 
> New mobo,


Is that the edition 10 Rampage? That board is beautiful!!! Makes want to sell my Deluxe II.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I have a question. Is it possible to mix between 16mm and 13mm tubing in a custom loop? Won't make any flow-issues or similar?


The guy from Singularity Computers does it all the time as far as i know. Maybe it hits performance a little bit. But shouldnt be something major or anything.


----------



## DarthBaggins

New case to play with today, the elite 130 will be retired for now:


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Guess who's coming to the Overclock.net Podcast: LIVE studio tomorrow night??? That's right! *EKWB will be joining us, and in fact, it will be our very own @derickwm, the managing director for EKWB USA!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check it out LIVE on TWITCH @ 9pm EST tomorrow night (Thursday)! twitch.tv/overclocktv


Seriously. I will do your graphic design stuff for free.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Seriously. I will do your graphic design stuff for free.


Wanna team up? I haven't designed in over a year due to personal issues but I think teaming up with another designer would spark my motivation.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Is that the edition 10 Rampage? That board is beautiful!!! Makes want to sell my Deluxe II.


Nope I wish, but then I'd be homeless lol, it's the x99 Strix Gaming board

Debating on picking up an EK supremacy mx from work for the Define Nano S build so I don't have to rummage through components to find a my parts for my Raystorm. And really want to try out an EK block for once lol


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Nope I wish, but then I'd be homeless lol, it's the x99 Strix Gaming board
> 
> Debating on picking up an EK supremacy mx from work for the Define Nano S build so I don't have to rummage through components to find a my parts for my Raystorm. And really want to try out an EK block for once lol


I vote for Heatkiller IV Pro awesome motherboard anyway!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Currently transplanting my htpc to the new case:


So far loving this Define Nano S, everything fits just right. Just need to finish the psu cables and route my tubing


----------



## VSG

Acetal top mistake aside, I liked this combination. That new EK D5 PWM G2 pump works as advertised too:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Acetal top mistake aside, I liked this combination. That new EK D5 PWM G2 pump works as advertised too:


Can you put the Monsoon D5 top through it's paces? Really would like to see what impact if any their tops have.









Late to the BP bashing party. And no disagreement with anyone. But let's keep things in perspective. Even EK had Nickel issues. They seem to have fixed that well and have bounced back nicely. But if it could happen to EK it can happen to anybody.









I will say though that BP has em on the fittings market. I like EK fittings but BP has pretty much been quality since I've purchased my first BP fitting. I never felt torn though when it came to buying EK over BP blocks. My only gripe was the CSQ crop circles but EK fixed that. Heck the clean CSQ tops can even take a little modding if one doesn't like the blase clean look. iirc someone actually complained that the clean tops were boring looking. I don't think so, but opinions are like you know what and everyone has them.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

^ I don't have the monsoon top here yet, but let me see. Geno was waiting on his round 2 set of MMRS parts to be out before sending anything. In the meantime, fast fate has a review up on ER.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *realtomatoes*
> 
> [quote name="lklem" I RMA the blocks & they send me the new replacement, this time I only use the VRM & PCH blocks, CPU block I change to EK Supremacy EVO block, unfortunately the VRM block still facing the same issue since only used for its of weeks, in future I will never buy any BP block.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, is it only the mobo blocks that have problems? I have a BP GPU acrylic nickel block in my sig rig and never had an issue with it, nor have I ever heard anything bad about the GPU blocks.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *realtomatoes*
> 
> [quote name="lklem" I RMA the blocks & they send me the new replacement, this time I only use the VRM & PCH blocks, CPU block I change to EK Supremacy EVO block, unfortunately the VRM block still facing the same issue since only used for its of weeks, in future I will never buy any BP block.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is it a known issue with bp blocks?
> 
> *edit spelling
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Its certainly an issue with mine,I ditched Bitspower as a sponsor because of it,I will not use nor promote products I wouldn't buy myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How long did it take for you guys to see the issues?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> i see that bits is still on the low side in terms of quality. Friend of mine had bp rampage 2 block. Cooling performance was crap, so he took it aprat. What he found is just a fluid passage, no fins or anything else to expand the heat transfering area. The moment he saw that, he just tossed it to trash bin.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, is it only the mobo blocks that have problems? I have a BP GPU acrylic nickel block in my sig rig and never had an issue with it, nor have I ever heard anything bad about the GPU blocks.
Click to expand...

Last year I went with a bp block and backplate for a Titan X on my son's build because PPCs didn't have EK in stock at the time and I thought the bp looked gorgeous. When I assembled it, one of the screw holes didn't align, so I had to put it together will all-but-one of the specified screws. I emailed them and never got a response, so I replaced it as soon as I could get the EK block. I have to say the block didn't leak, but it was a glaring quality problem, as a result of which I decided to stay away from bitspower blocks in the future.


----------



## electro2u

It's interesting. I've never tried any of the Bitspower blocks because I just don't like the way they write like the part number on them really big or whatever. But their fittings are like almost ubiquitous. Sooooo many people use them and never really hear about any problems. I am about ready for a change maybe but I have always just been really happy with their fittings.

Edit: sorry for saying "like" so much


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Detailed review just posted with plenty plenty info on the MMRS, particularly the MMRS-TRP D5 pump adapter


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/06/15/monsoon-mmrs-reservoird5-top-combo-review/









Edit:
Quite an impressive amount of options and customization for these reservoirs, and the D5 pump adapter.
Performance seemed to be respectable, from FF's testing.

It certainly is unique, compared to the run-of -the-mill reservoirs out there.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's interesting. I've never tried any of the Bitspower blocks because I just don't like the way they write like the part number on them really big or whatever. But their fittings are like almost ubiquitous. Sooooo many people use them and never really hear about any problems. I am about ready for a change maybe but I have always just been really happy with their fittings.
> 
> Edit: sorry for saying "like" so much


I found your picture.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Al done for now, no leaks and running great:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Detailed review just posted with plenty plenty info on the MMRS, particularly the MMRS-TRP D5 pump adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/06/15/monsoon-mmrs-reservoird5-top-combo-review/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Quite an impressive amount of options and customization for these reservoirs, and the D5 pump adapter.
> Performance seemed to be respectable, from FF's testing.
> 
> It certainly is unique, compared to the run-of -the-mill reservoirs out there.
Click to expand...

Thank you VSG and DC.









+Rep to the both of you.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wolfsbora

Hey all! I'm interviewing EKWB tonight @ 9 PM EST on Twitch.tv/overclocktv]http://www.twitch.tv/overclocktv/

What's something you've always wanted to know/ask them? Nothing is off limits, the rep they're bringing on is cool with whatever we throw at him.

If you can't make the show, we'll put it up on our Soundcloud so you can still listen!

Let me know!


----------



## VSG

Ask Derick about his nickname in school


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Hey all! I'm interviewing EKWB tonight @ 9 PM EST on Twitch.tv/overclocktv]http://www.twitch.tv/overclocktv/
> 
> What's something you've always wanted to know/ask them? Nothing is off limits, the rep they're bringing on is cool with whatever we throw at him.
> 
> If you can't make the show, we'll put it up on our Soundcloud so you can still listen!
> 
> Let me know!


What's that GMT?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What's that GMT?


4 hours ahead, B Neg.


----------



## Wolfsbora

In other words, probably 1am. (my bad for double post)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Hmmmm,I might drop in on that.


----------



## derickwm

I don't think the nurses will allow that


----------



## Wolfsbora

Oh, guess what, B Neg will be a soon to be a guest. SO yeah, sign on for whatever you've got...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*


That's tomorrow,still at home till then D....


----------



## Ithanul

Some more goodies. Darn, I am swimming in radiators atm. Need this weekend start getting some builds together.











Now I need to figure out how this goes together. May throw the 990FX and 1090T on this after I take it out of my folder, and smack the 3930K and RIVBE in the folder.

Think I just lost the bench to my cat. She seems to clam it as her new laying area.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Some more goodies. Darn, I am swimming in radiators atm. Need this weekend start getting some builds together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to figure out how this goes together. May throw the 990FX and 1090T on this after I take it out of my folder, and smack the 3930K and RIVBE in the folder.
> 
> Think I just lost the bench to my cat. She seems to clam it as her new laying area.


990FX? Still waiting for my 9590 to abuse!


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I have finally been struck by Corsair's PWM curse. I've had a Corsair SP120 High Performance fan running in my system for about a year now, with no trouble controlling the fan through PWM. Then recently the fan starts acting strangely reporting lower RPM's than what its spinning at, and spinning faster than it should at the give PWM rate, and now it just spins full speed all the time, and won't conform to the fan curve at any PWM setting.

I switched the fan to DC control for now. Why does corsair use this goofy PWM implementation, and is there anything that can be done about it?


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 990FX?


His motherboard


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakn*
> 
> His motherboard


Her and I know, I thought she only had an intel rig atm. See my sig.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I have finally been struck by Corsair's PWM curse. I've had a Corsair SP120 High Performance fan running in my system for about a year now, with no trouble controlling the fan through PWM. Then recently the fan starts acting strangely reporting lower RPM's than what its spinning at, and spinning faster than it should at the give PWM rate, and now it just spins full speed all the time, and won't conform to the fan curve at any PWM setting.
> 
> I switched the fan to DC control for now. Why does corsair use this goofy PWM implementation, and is there anything that can be done about it?


I think they'll send you a replacement if you open up a ticket, I know that a certain batch of them where known by them to be faulty.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Hey all! I'm interviewing EKWB tonight @ 9 PM EST on Twitch.tv/overclocktv]http://www.twitch.tv/overclocktv/

What's something you've always wanted to know/ask them? Nothing is off limits, the rep they're bringing on is cool with whatever we throw at him.

If you can't make the show, we'll put it up on our Soundcloud so you can still listen!

Let me know!








Questions!!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Currently transplanting my htpc to the new case:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far loving this Define Nano S, everything fits just right. Just need to finish the psu cables and route my tubing



Just painted one of these white for someone. I like the case, wish less of it was plastic so Powder Coating would be more viable.


----------



## Banedox

I don't think I ever posted in here.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 990FX? Still waiting for my 9590 to abuse!


The motherboard. Its an ASUS 990FX Sabertooth. Got it when I traded another folder my 7970 that I use to fold in TC 24/7. That was one tank of a card. Reason I want to play around with a RX480. Kind of miss messing around with a red card.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Her and I know, I thought she only had an intel rig atm. See my sig.


O, I have many hardware goodies. I don't care if it is AMD, Nvidia, or Intel. As long as I get my use out of the hardware and I can abuse the crap out of it.







Kind of the reason I tend to buy 2nd or 3rd hand. That way I don't have as much money in it.









My current stash of goodies:

4770K
4690K
1090T
3930K

ASUS RIVBE
ASUS 990FX Sabertooth
MSI Z87-GD65
Another ASUS mobo for AM3+
(Had some more but been thinning out some)

GTX960 FTW
GTX970 G1 Gaming
GTX980 STRIX
2x GTX980Ti

My next hardware goodies is going to be two to four E5-2670 Xeons and 2P boards.







They going to become 24/7 BOINC rigs and experiment using server OSes plus VMs. Plus, I got a good horde of water cooling gear growing atm too.

Think only thing I horde worse than computer gear is art supplies.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Just painted one of these white for someone. I like the case, wish less of it was plastic so Powder Coating would be more viable.


Do wish I had the windowed panel though, but digging the black for now. In all a good case to build in


----------



## Chopper1591

Bought a EK CE 420 radiator second hand. Was stated as "like new".
The radiator was like only 8 months old.

State I received it in:




Decided to take it apart to repaint. The inside was even worse.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Started with removing the corrosion. Worked out pretty nice:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Paint shots:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








And finished pictures. Don't mind the phone quality:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Pretty happy with the result overal. Deal wasn't that bad either: paid €65 including shipment for the radiator. The thing is €109,95 excluding shipping costs new where I live.


----------



## prznar1

GJ man. This radiator just got a 2nd live









my old tc pa will be sold soon :C but i wont hunt for used rad this time. I wont be able to mount 60mm fat rad to 303 inwin so im going straight for best 30mm thik rad. GTS NEMESIS from hw labs


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> GJ man. This radiator just got a 2nd live
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my old tc pa will be sold soon :C but i wont hunt for used rad this time. I wont be able to mount 60mm fat rad to 303 inwin so im going straight for best 30mm thik rad. GTS NEMESIS from hw labs


I actually plannen to buy that radiator before I found this used one.
Gladly I didn't buy the GTS (420 version) as I found out that it wouldn't fit (wide wise) in the top of the Enthoo Primo (which I ordered yesterday). Max width seems to be 146mm without modding.

My current in use radiator (UT60 360) will go to the bottom of the case.
I guess a 420 and a 360 will be enough to cool my setup (fx-8320 @ 4.8ghz and a r9 290 @ 1200)?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I actually plannen to buy that radiator before I found this used one.
> Gladly I didn't buy the GTS (420 version) as I found out that it wouldn't fit (wide wise) in the top of the Enthoo Primo *(which I ordered yesterday*). Max width seems to be 146mm without modding.
> 
> My current in use radiator (UT60 360) will go to the bottom of the case.
> I guess a 420 and a 360 will be enough to cool my setup (fx-8320 @ 4.8ghz and a r9 290 @ 1200)?


Get Um Chop!! How bout that build log?

TCO


----------



## prznar1

And 360 is not doing its job?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Get Um Chop!! How bout that build log?
> 
> TCO


Never done a build log.
I might just do that. I'd really like a better camera though.









Do note that it is more of an upgrade than a fresh build.
I keep my hardware but change my case, add a radiator and new tubing (of course). Wouldn't it be weird to make a build log with used stuff?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> And 360 is not doing its job?


It does. But its not enough.
Have you used a Vishera cpu before? Massive heat right there.

I want my case quiet so more rad=less noise. Currently I have the 360 and a 140.1 but I still get 10c delta easy. Higher with low fan speeds.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Never done a build log.
> I might just do that. I'd really like a better camera though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do note that it is more of an upgrade than a fresh build.
> I keep my hardware but change my case, add a radiator and new tubing (of course). Wouldn't it be weird to make a build log with used stuff?
> It does. But its not enough.
> Have you used a Vishera cpu before? Massive heat right there.
> 
> I want my case quiet so more rad=less noise. Currently I have the 360 and a 140.1 but I still get 10c delta easy. Higher with low fan speeds.


No, i didnt had fx cpu







Didnt thought they are such heaters. Didnt knew that fx cpu and hd 290 can beat 360 radiator


----------



## jtom320

Just finished my first hardline build. Well nearly finished. If you look at the top rad the fitting closest to the cammera is offset from the GPU. Luckily the Microcenter near me has EK fittings and I'm going to get two 90s tonight and line it up. No leaks though.

Going to shorten up the tube going from the GPU block to the pump as well. Just realized it through another fitting off.

Hard tubing while not as difficult as I imagined was still kind of a PITA getting everything to fit together right. Hopefully after tonight I'll have it compltely sorted.

Went with all EK to make it easy for the most part. I've used mostly Aquacomputer stuff in the past and while I feel EK lacks that next level build quality I'm not minding these next level temperatures at all. Sub 40 under load at 2075mhz on my 1080 is ridiculous. That's just quick and dirty as well playing with Heaven last night.

Anyway here she is. When I reload the fluid tonight I'm going to switch to Ice white as well. Think it'll be pretty.


----------



## Ceadderman

Excellent job Chop!

The first few pics were









The last couple were









Still should bust that guy on his false claims though. Claims like that make it difficult for people to sell their slightly used hardware for a reasonable price.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Never done a build log.
> I might just do that. I'd really like a better camera though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do note that it is more of an upgrade than a fresh build.
> *I keep my hardware but change my case, add a radiator and new tubing (of course). Wouldn't it be weird to make a build log with used stuff?*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It does. But its not enough.
> Have you used a Vishera cpu before? Massive heat right there.
> 
> I want my case quiet so more rad=less noise. Currently I have the 360 and a 140.1 but I still get 10c delta easy. Higher with low fan speeds.


No, The case change alone is enough for a Build log if you ask me









People love to see real world dimensions of new cases







And by real world, I mean rad space and tubing runs

TCO


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Just finished my first hardline build. Well nearly finished. If you look at the top rad the fitting closest to the cammera is offset from the GPU. Luckily the Microcenter near me has EK fittings and I'm going to get two 90s tonight and line it up. No leaks though.
> 
> Going to shorten up the tube going from the GPU block to the pump as well. Just realized it through another fitting off.
> 
> Hard tubing while not as difficult as I imagined was still kind of a PITA getting everything to fit together right. Hopefully after tonight I'll have it compltely sorted.
> 
> Went with all EK to make it easy for the most part. I've used mostly Aquacomputer stuff in the past and while I feel EK lacks that next level build quality I'm not minding these next level temperatures at all. Sub 40 under load at 2075mhz on my 1080 is ridiculous. That's just quick and dirty as well playing with Heaven last night.
> 
> Anyway here she is. When I reload the fluid tonight I'm going to switch to Ice white as well. Think it'll be pretty.


Very nice! I particularly like the horizontal bends out of the CPU. That EK plexi pump looks beautiful too! For my taste, the diagonal line into the pump doesn't look as good as a 90 deg bend would. Great job!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> Just finished my first hardline build. Well nearly finished. If you look at the top rad the fitting closest to the cammera is offset from the GPU. Luckily the Microcenter near me has EK fittings and I'm going to get two 90s tonight and line it up. No leaks though.
> 
> Going to shorten up the tube going from the GPU block to the pump as well. Just realized it through another fitting off.
> 
> Hard tubing while not as difficult as I imagined was still kind of a PITA getting everything to fit together right. Hopefully after tonight I'll have it compltely sorted.
> 
> Went with all EK to make it easy for the most part. I've used mostly Aquacomputer stuff in the past and while I feel EK lacks that next level build quality I'm not minding these next level temperatures at all. Sub 40 under load at 2075mhz on my 1080 is ridiculous. That's just quick and dirty as well playing with Heaven last night.
> 
> Anyway here she is. When I reload the fluid tonight I'm going to switch to Ice white as well. Think it'll be pretty.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice! I particularly like the horizontal bends out of the CPU. That EK plexi pump looks beautiful too! For my taste, the diagonal line into the pump doesn't look as good as a 90 deg bend would. Great job!
Click to expand...

I concur. a 90* bend to the pump would certainly be nicer.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Extreme amount of enthusiasm for the "invention" aside, it's about time someone brought out a frosted finish for hard tubing. One could do it by carefully sanding the exterior of polished plexi too.


----------



## wermad

Hasnt Low been frosting acrylic for a while now?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hasnt Low been frosting acrylic for a while now?


More like the opposite right? Polishing frosted CSQ blocks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Extreme amount of enthusiasm for the "invention" aside, it's about time someone brought out a frosted finish for hard tubing. One could do it by carefully sanding the exterior of polished plexi too.


yep it is nice. It can be done with paint too:





I posted this like a year ago. You can see the difference at the end of the tube which I did not paint.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hasnt Low been frosting acrylic for a while now?


I've frosted blocks, reservoirs, and tubing. In the end I never stuck w/ it though. I always thought clear looked better.


----------



## VSG

Dunno man, that frosted EK Supreme looks gorgeous


----------



## Ithanul

^ With you on that. That shot of that CPU block is smexy.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> No, i didnt had fx cpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didnt thought they are such heaters. Didnt knew that fx cpu and hd 290 can beat 360 radiator


They sure can. Haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Excellent job Chop!
> 
> The first few pics were
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last couple were
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still should bust that guy on his false claims though. Claims like that make it difficult for people to sell their slightly used hardware for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks Ceadder. I really apriciate that compliment coming from you. I was pretty happy with the result myself, hadn't expected it. After all: I never work with paint. Have only used two layers also with a third on the small side cap (had a dripper) there







.

Yeah I've send pictures of the radiator to the guy and he felt bad. Even offered to pay for costs made to restore. He didn't realize it was that bad.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No, The case change alone is enough for a Build log if you ask me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People love to see real world dimensions of new cases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And by real world, I mean rad space and tubing runs
> 
> TCO


Thanks. I will do it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've frosted blocks, reservoirs, and tubing. In the end I never stuck w/ it though. I always thought clear looked better.


Hmm looks different. Kinda like it.

How does one do that?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Question:

How can you use a glass bottle (Johnny Walker) as a reservoir?



Say I bought a bottle of red lable (Cap of bottle is already threaded in glass) Use a plastic cap that was converted to G 1/4 for inlet and sealed the top of bottle (That you would drink or pour out of ) and the bottle of the bottle was left to drill through.

20mm Diamond Drill Bit . Use this Diamond Drill bit to drill 20mm hole in bottom of bottle ok?

Use a bitspower Passthrough fitting and now have a G 1/4 outlet hole to continue through bottle for loop?









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Question:
> 
> How can you use a glass bottle (Johnny Walker) as a reservoir?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say I bought a bottle of red lable (Cap of bottle is already threaded in glass) Used a plastic cap that was converted to G 1/4 for inlet and sealed the top of bottle (That you would drink or pour out of ) and the bottle of the bottle was left to drill through.
> 
> 20mm Diamond Drill Bit . Used this Diamond Drill bit to drill 20mm hole in bottom of bottle ok?
> 
> Used a bitspower Passthrough fitting and now have a G 1/4 outlet hole to continue through bottle for loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Easy peasy: You just keep walking


----------



## ruffhi

Or you could fly with a grey goose.


----------



## Ceadderman

Or go with a JD bottle to monkey around with. Since am a JD or Glenfiddich or Dewar's man I would try it with those before chuffing a bottle of Johnny Walker. Unless I had an insane amount of bottles to mess with.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Question:
> 
> How can you use a glass bottle (Johnny Walker) as a reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> Say I bought a bottle of red lable (Cap of bottle is already threaded in glass) Used a plastic cap that was converted to G 1/4 for inlet and sealed the top of bottle (That you would drink or pour out of ) and the bottle of the bottle was left to drill through.
> 
> 20mm Diamond Drill Bit . Used this Diamond Drill bit to drill 20mm hole in bottom of bottle ok?
> 
> Used a bitspower Passthrough fitting and now have a G 1/4 outlet hole to continue through bottle for loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Having drilled more than just a few holes of various sizes in glass, maybe I can offer some cheery advice . . .









The bottom of most bottles in not flat, and a passthru likely won't seal . . . the O ring is a very small cross section.

You'd be better off drilling thru a side wall a bit above the bottom.

Also, diamond drills always drill a larger hole than they are spec'd at.

I'd go with a 3/4" drill to get your 20mm hole.

I use Milwaukee "Diamond Plus" . . . does a good job without being in the stratospheric cost range.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-4-in-Diamond-Plus-Hole-Saw-49-56-0515/204999981

Beware of el-cheapo knock offs . . .

You always drill glass with plenty of water to keep it cool and to act as a lubricant and to flush the slurry away.

Now that you have glass drilling 101 down . . .

Have you thought about how you're going to get the ring on the back of the passthru, since its inside the bottle, and the hole you made is only big enough for the threads,

I'd drill for the passthru, but rough the surface of the glass around the hole, and the back of the passthru, and epoxy it in place.

You could have two passthrus on the bottle, and use the original cap as the fill /bleed port.

Darlene

For larger holes where the drill has a pilot bit, you have to diamond drill the pilot hole for the pilot bit first.





Drilling glass is a messy undertaking, be prepared if you're not in a shop area.



With the bit I linked, it's just one shot


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Question:
> 
> How can you use a glass bottle (Johnny Walker) as a reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> Say I bought a bottle of red lable (Cap of bottle is already threaded in glass) Use a plastic cap that was converted to G 1/4 for inlet and sealed the top of bottle (That you would drink or pour out of ) and the bottle of the bottle was left to drill through.
> 
> 20mm Diamond Drill Bit . Use this Diamond Drill bit to drill 20mm hole in bottom of bottle ok?
> 
> Use a bitspower Passthrough fitting and now have a G 1/4 outlet hole to continue through bottle for loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


There's an ocn member who sold reservoirs made from different liqueur bottles. I sold him my Sniper 5 Z87 board a couple of years ago. Let me find him, haven't seen him around here lately. I believe he lives (or is stationed) on one of the US Pacific island territories.

Btw, my go to drink is Black Label with ice and coca-cola


----------



## Ceadderman

Beer and a shot. Neat.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Having drilled more than just a few holes of various sizes in glass, maybe I can offer some cheery advice . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom of most bottles in not flat, and a passthru likely won't seal . . . the O ring is a very small cross section.
> 
> *You'd be better off drilling thru a side wall a bit above the bottom.*
> 
> Also, diamond drills always drill a larger hole than they are spec'd at.
> 
> I'd go with a 3/4" drill to get your 20mm hole.
> 
> I use Milwaukee "Diamond Plus" . . . does a good job without being in the stratospheric cost range.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-4-in-Diamond-Plus-Hole-Saw-49-56-0515/204999981
> 
> Beware of el-cheapo knock offs . . .
> 
> *You always drill glass with plenty of water to keep it cool and to act as a lubricant and to flush the slurry away.*
> 
> Now that you have glass drilling 101 down . . .
> 
> Have you thought about how you're going to get the ring on the back of the passthru, since its inside the bottle, and the hole you made is only big enough for the threads,
> 
> I'd drill for the passthru, but rough the surface of the glass around the hole, and the back of the passthru, and epoxy it in place.
> 
> You could have two passthrus on the bottle, and use the original cap as the fill /bleed port.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> For larger holes where the drill has a pilot bit, you have to diamond drill the pilot hole for the pilot bit first.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling glass is a messy undertaking, be prepared if you're not in a shop area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the bit I linked, it's just one shot


Completely agree about the side of the bottle, as this would be my original intention. Thanks for the tip about drilling with fluid, as the heat I would think would crack the glass









Though you made a good point about trying to connect the passthrough (through) the bottle. I hadn't thought that far









I am glad I have asked this question... A bulkhead fitting would be the same thing.. trying to figure out how to secure the fitting through the glass to the female of the Passthrough... Interesting...

TCO


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hmm looks different. Kinda like it.
> 
> How does one do that?


It is pretty easy if you want a brushed frosted look. First sand w/ 800g in a single direction. Wash the acrylic. Then sand w/ 400g in the same direction. Something like that block could be done in 10 to 15 minutes.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Liking this Define Nano S more and more. .


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have you thought about how you're going to get the ring on the back of the passthru, since its inside the bottle, and the hole you made is only big enough for the threads,


----------



## ruffhi

Good answer ... sail your way inside and then tighten the pass-through!


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I completely forgot that people do that.... ***?!


----------



## jtom320

What's the recomendation for lighting these days? Trying to get some white lights that are easy to hook up and will brigthen things up through my charcoal window a bit but not be obnoxious at the same time.

Understated clean light I guess? Are there magnetic strips that work well nowadays? It's been over a year since I built a system and just finished my latest.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Good answer ... sail your way inside and then tighten the pass-through!


very good answer. build the passthrough INSIDE the bottle!! if they can do it with a boat, something as simple as a passthrough should be cake.


----------



## ruffhi

Or just change the boat to a submarine and make the bottle your reservoir.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Or just change the boat to a submarine and make the bottle your reservoir.


Better yet leave the boat and add fishies.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I vote for fish as well, lol or a diver









Have to say I'll be sticking with Thermal Grizzly (Hydronaut) from now on, the 4790k is cruising full load @ 4.6 1.24vcore under the EK MX block and won't even peak above 40c. Definitely worth the $15 from Amazon for 3.9g


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I vote for fish as well, lol or a diver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to say I'll be sticking with Thermal Grizzly (Hydronaut) from now on, the 4790k is cruising full load @ 4.6 1.24vcore under the EK MX block and won't even peak above 40c. Definitely worth the $15 from Amazon for 3.9g


Ooooh nice. Gonna have to grab me some of that. PPCs' seems to forever be out of stock and theirs costs more when they do have it. I'd rather get all my kit from them but I seem to never have the funds available when they have their coupon codes.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Making some progress on my P5 build, thought you guys might like a look . . . .

Managed to make it to the welding shop this week and had the aluminum perimeter frame and inner LED strip carrier tigged up.

Also got the modded, 8 slot to 6 slot, card rack welded up . . . . just fits nicely with the outer plexi installed.

Got the 1/2" thick plexi panel drilled and tapped so all the components mount on it . . . moved the PSU back about 3/4" which gave the cabling more room.

Still have to add the cable slots to the front panel, but wanted everything to be able to mock-up to see just how big and where to put them.

Got the support bracket for the dual 35X pumps installed.

Painting the rad mounting brackets red to pick up on the red accent of the mobo turned out nice, carries a little accent to the 1st and 2nd quadrant, so I think I'll do the PSU mounting bracket red also, so that Q3 isn't conspicuously absent any red accenting.

It's finally starting to look like something recognizable . . .









Darlene









Took me longer than expected to redo the res assembly and add a bracket so that it can fasten directly to the main acrylic front panel, but I trimmed down the brackets a tad to be more minimal and put a piece of acrylic to carry them, with the weight being carried by the big aluminum pump mount bracket.

The screws just hold it back flush against the front panel and lock it in position.

The pumps and res assembly can be removed or serviced as a removable module.

An extra long GPU fits sort of between the res's and below the upper bracket giving a full 12" max capability.


----------



## wermad

Didn't go w/ the G1 Gaming?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Didn't go w/ the G1 Gaming?


I have the Gaming GT in my S8 build, and had an EK monoblock left over from that build that fits the Gaming 7 but not the GT, so I went with the Gaming 7 in this build.

With cooling limited to one 480 rad, unless you make a Fugly Frankenmess out of things, and a practical limit of 1 GPU because of the riser cable issues, it just isn't worth going with a G1 with this case.

I have an Asus Z170 Deluxe for a black and white theme in the second Core X9 build that's in progress, the one with the 2 way infinity panels.

Fortunately, I think I've outlived my short romance with the Tt cases, and also probably Z170 as well, lol . . . .

The new X99 boards have all the features that Z170 brought, and 40 PCI lanes to boot . .

I'm eying the release of the R5 Edition10, that with an 8 core should be a solid platform for a major build in one of my TH10A's

Darlene


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I vote for fish as well, lol or a diver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to say I'll be sticking with Thermal Grizzly (Hydronaut) from now on, the 4790k is cruising full load @ 4.6 1.24vcore under the EK MX block and won't even peak above 40c. Definitely worth the $15 from Amazon for 3.9g


Question: I was under the impression that Kryonaut is slightly better? Although much more expensive per g? At least that's what I can see Spec's they provide as well. Am I missing something, like it's markup maybe Hydronaut is better for water cooled systems for some reason or is the difference just so minuscule the price of Kryonaut isn't worth it?


----------



## Brulf

Finally finished this thing was a rebuild, not sure i like the pump position though feels a little crowded


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> What's the recommendation for lighting these days? Trying to get some white lights that are easy to hook up and will brighten things up through my charcoal window a bit but not be obnoxious at the same time.
> 
> Understated clean light I guess? Are there magnetic strips that work well nowadays? It's been over a year since I built a system and just finished my latest.


I use RGB strips from Amazon because my mobo has an RGB header on it. I have heard that the Darkside and new CableMod wide beam LED strips are very good. As for the magnetic strip that comes on both, I am not sure how strong they are. I just went to Home Depot and got a roll of magnetic tape and put that on my RGB strips and it worked perfect.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have the Gaming GT in my S8 build, and had an EK monoblock left over from that build that fits the Gaming 7 but not the GT, so I went with the Gaming 7 in this build.
> 
> With cooling limited to one 480 rad, unless you make a Fugly Frankenmess out of things, and a practical limit of 1 GPU because of the riser cable issues, it just isn't worth going with a G1 with this case.
> 
> I have an Asus Z170 Deluxe for a black and white theme in the second Core X9 build that's in progress, the one with the 2 way infinity panels.
> 
> Fortunately, I think I've outlived my short romance with the Tt cases, and also probably Z170 as well, lol . . . .
> 
> The new X99 boards have all the features that Z170 brought, and 40 PCI lanes to boot . .
> 
> I'm eying the release of the R5 Edition10, that with an 8 core should be a solid platform for a major build in one of my TH10A's
> 
> Darlene


The 7 is very popular from what I see members use in the GB Z170 thread. I wasn't impressed by the RVE10 tbh and I would rather have the X99-E WS or the og RVE. The G1 Gaming already has a built-in wc, so its another reason to keep it.

I'm scouring for a new case. Something unique, and very wc friendly. I'm liking that EVGA but I'm not there yet to pull the trigger.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Question: I was under the impression that Kryonaut is slightly better? Although much more expensive per g? At least that's what I can see Spec's they provide as well. Am I missing something, like it's markup maybe Hydronaut is better for water cooled systems for some reason or is the difference just so minuscule the price of Kryonaut isn't worth it?


The hydronaut was actually designed to favor more extreme cooling than just Watercooling, actually hit purchase before realizing this or re-reading the difference between the two. But so far has shown to be a good TiM over-all either way and saved some moolah in doing so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ooooh nice. Gonna have to grab me some of that. PPCs' seems to forever be out of stock and theirs costs more when they do have it. I'd rather get all my kit from them but I seem to never have the funds available when they have their coupon codes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was fortunate to have won a $25 Amazon gift card from Intel Retail Edge so it gave me a reason to purchase via Amazon for once lol. And yeah it was a $1 or $2 more from PPC's if I had decided to order from them too.


----------



## slothiraptor

What are the physical differences between the EK-FC R9 290X Rev 2 and the original? I'm looking to sell one of my blocks and i noticed I have a box for for the rev 2 and a box for the original. I know rev 2 is supposed to add support to some MSI and Gigabyte cards. My other block is already installed on my card so I don't want to take it off unless I have to, so I was wondering if there was anything on the other block that would indicate which revision it is.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Last I remember Rev. 2 supports the 390x's as well (well as long as it's the ref PCB like the version I have straight from AMD)

Do wish I knew if I could use an Aquacomputers' block on my Ref 390x


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@jtom320

Darkside LED.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Almost broke my back lugging this around:




























What a Monsta


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @jtom320
> 
> Darkside LED.
> 
> TCO


I 2nd the recommendation on Darkside LEDs, also recommend CableMods' as well (Darkside can connect via a 3pin fan header and CableMods connects via Sata power)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Almost broke my back lugging this around:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a Monsta


Surprised @seross69 hasn't attempted to use these in one of his builds lol


----------



## VSG

In his honor, I will actually use this with 32mm thick fans in push-pull and a shroud as well. That Caselabs 180mm rad mount is going to be seriously tested!


----------



## nabarun

finally the nickel backplate arrived


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Almost broke my back lugging this around:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a Monsta


Breaking your back @ 3.5kg, anyone? IT power.









Seriously though, that thing deserves the name "Monsta".
585 x 182 x 85mm is pretty mad.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> In his honor, I will actually use this with 32mm thick fans in push-pull and a shroud as well. That Caselabs 180mm rad mount is going to be seriously tested!


NEED pictures...

I found my triple 140 already somewhat big compared to my UT60 360.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nabarun*
> 
> finally the nickel backplate arrived


Oehh nice.
Polish polish polish!

I didn't know they made Nickel backplates. Did they already before the 1080's?


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I didn't know they made Nickel backplates. Did they already before the 1080's?


Yes, since the 900 series i think.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

For the love of god,spoiler quoted pics please,leave unspoilered but spoiler the rest.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Sorry I'll go back and fix it (on mobile when I quoted) - at least I can still type the code out via mobile lol


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For the love of god,spoiler quoted pics please,leave unspoilered but spoiler the rest.


Oops. Sorry Neg.
Forgot out of exitement.


----------



## ruffhi

This thread is rocking. Nearly 100k replies and almost 10m views.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> This thread is rocking. Nearly 100k replies and almost 10m views.


Because this is the hangout for some intelligent people. You will notice that the fanboys that ruin most of OCN don't come here. We have fanboys but not the toxic twats seen elsewhere.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> toxic twats


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because this is the hangout for some intelligent people. You will notice that the fanboys that ruin most of OCN don't come here. We have fanboys but not the toxic twats seen elsewhere.


LOL... I could name a few...


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because this is the hangout for some intelligent people. You will notice that the fanboys that ruin most of OCN don't come here. We have fanboys but not the toxic twats seen elsewhere.


im toxic but not a fanboy. i had enough of that crap in the bf3 & 4 threads. i know a couple who were banned because of those threads.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Because this is the hangout for some intelligent people. You will notice that the fanboys that ruin most of OCN don't come here. We have fanboys but not the toxic twats seen elsewhere.


No kidding. I really need to stay away from the GPU news thread or the news threads in general.









Think only other areas that are nice is the [email protected], BOINC, and server threads. O, and the modding threads.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Almost broke my back lugging this around:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a Monsta


Obvious question: Which was heavier, this or the MO-RA3? Kind of pretty though, even if there aren't too many cases at the moment that support those 180mm fan radiators.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Cleaned up the return run to the res, it was bothering me so snagged a ek 90 adapter from work.


----------



## Chopper1591

Morning all.

I still can't decide wether I want clear or black tubing. What do you guys think will look better?

Hard part is my motherboard. The 990fx sabertooth just has this ugly tints.

Waiting on the case: black/red enthoo primo. I think red tubes is too much. And I really don't want to use dye anymore.

So it's clear tubing with clear coolant vs black tubing. Will probably go Primochill again. Or are there better options?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Morning all.
> 
> I still can't decide wether I want clear or black tubing. What do you guys think will look better?
> 
> Hard part is my motherboard. The 990fx sabertooth just has this ugly tints.
> 
> Waiting on the case: black/red enthoo primo. I think red tubes is too much. And I really don't want to use dye anymore.
> 
> So it's clear tubing with clear coolant vs black tubing. Will probably go Primochill again. Or are there better options?


I have black primochill atm and want to go clear, but juts as it fits my asthetic better. What does your build look like

What size fittings are you using you could use ZMT if you wanted black tubing looks better IMO.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Obvious question: Which was heavier, this or the MO-RA3? Kind of pretty though, even if there aren't too many cases at the moment that support those 180mm fan radiators.


Oh, the MO-RA3 Pro 140.9 was way heavier but it's also a 2 hander whereas this can be handled with one hand. The Monsta Triple 180 with coolant is a bit above 2.5 Kg but the MO-RA3 empty with all those fat tubes comes in at over 7.5 Kg.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im toxic but not a fanboy. i had enough of that crap in the bf3 & 4 threads. i know a couple who were banned because of those threads.


You know still love you....

Ya ****.


----------



## MinotPanda

Just posted in the new members but I figure I would add to the watercooled section


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice loop, how long have you been running the floor tile mono block?


----------



## prznar1

Guys, what is most common OD for hard tube. 16mm?


----------



## MinotPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Nice loop, how long have you been running the floor tile mono block?


Its been about a month now it has done a lot better than my XSPC waterblock I had. The temps haven't gone over 60c and that is with the chipset and mosfet added with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, what is most common OD for hard tube. 16mm?


5/8" or 16mm









~Ceadder


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I have black primochill atm and want to go clear, but juts as it fits my asthetic better. What does your build look like
> 
> What size fittings are you using you could use ZMT if you wanted black tubing looks better IMO.


I had clear before. White before that









My idea is that black is maybe too much. Maybe i wil just go clear/clear again.

Using 1/2 3/4 atm.
EK ZMT that is I take it? Havent seen that in person. Some say the primo black is nice. The EK is less shiny it seems.

I thought black would be nice as my Enthoo primo will be black with red internals.

Decisions


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MinotPanda*
> 
> Its been about a month now it has done a lot better than my XSPC waterblock I had. The temps haven't gone over 60c and that is with the chipset and mosfet added with it.


Yeah they cool great for the most part, but hopefully you don't get the corrosion issues I had (had the same block setup when I had my RVE)


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 5/8" or 16mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thank you. Wonder how would system with 12mm od hard tube look like.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> thank you. Wonder how would system with 12mm od hard tube look like.


two examples. A lot of people use 12 mm OD.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> snip


Thx for showing those to me. Now i know that 12mm od tube looks as good as 16mm and fittings are 50% cheaper









So for christmas ill go hard


----------



## Chopper1591

Grrr...
I gotta stop watching this stuff.

It is so tempting to change to rigid tubing. It's just such a waste that I have around €100 in 1/2 fittings in my build. The acrylic/glass tubes or not that expensive, it's the fittings needed that hurt my wallet.

Still. No more idea's?

Waiting for this in the mail:

Having these in there:
- Board is sooo bad for color scheming.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






- EK Acetal gpu block with black backplate
- This ram.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Which tubing to get?
Here is a link for ya'll from which I can choose.

Much appreciated.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Grrr...
> I gotta stop watching this stuff.
> 
> It is so tempting to change to rigid tubing. It's just such a waste that I have around €100 in 1/2 fittings in my build. The acrylic/glass tubes or not that expensive, it's the fittings needed that hurt my wallet.
> 
> Still. No more idea's?
> 
> Waiting for this in the mail:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having these in there:
> - Board is sooo bad for color scheming.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - EK Acetal gpu block with black backplate
> - This ram.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which tubing to get?
> Here is a link for ya'll from which I can choose.
> 
> Much appreciated.


Since you're going with clear coolant, and the hard tubing conversion would be pricey, I'd recommend EK ZMT tubing.

Imo the black tubing would work well with that black and red case and your color scheme.


----------



## MinotPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah they cool great for the most part, but hopefully you don't get the corrosion issues I had (had the same block setup when I had my RVE)


I will let you know LOL I hope it doesn't but who knows. What kind of coolant are you using?


----------



## Sulfatron

UV delight with Mayhems Oil Black..


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sulfatron*
> 
> UV delight with Mayhems Oil Black..


Hey awesome build! Out of curiosity. What GPU is that? It looks really wide or is it just the block making it look like that?


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Hey awesome build! Out of curiosity. What GPU is that? It looks really wide or is it just the block making it look like that?


980Ti


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Hey awesome build! Out of curiosity. What GPU is that? It looks really wide or is it just the block making it look like that?


its a very very short case. look at the size of the card and look at the hdd and ssd underneath it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

If I can cram a 390x in a Elite 130 nearly any other case is possible lol


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> If I can cram a 390x in a Elite 130 nearly any other case is possible lol


For you NO!! LOL.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey friends. So, I've got a question. For those of you who've seen my build, it's very compact. Now, I finally got around to benchmarking the temperatures of my build, and I came across something I find... Interesting. My CPU (which is an i7-5820K, stock clock) runs significantly cooler than my GPU (GTX 980 stock clock.) I can only think of two reasons for this. The first being, my loop order is:

Reservoir -> pump -> GTX 980 -> i7-5820K -> radiator -> reservoir

Is the liquid from the GPU causing the CPU to run warmer? From what I've heard, loops end up having an equilibrium of temperature, and I thought that positioning of (say GPU to CPU, or CPU to GPU) didn't really make a difference?

My next guess would be that warm air from the radiator is getting warmed-up, and causing a heat-soak effect. But that's odd, because the motherboard doesn't really run hot. And in this configuration, my fans are actually currently set to exhaust air. So right now, (see image below), I have just two 120mm fans, pulling air through a radiator, and nothing else in the case.



It took about an hour, and I still think there were maybe just a degree or two the build could have gained, but, after running Furmark and AIDA64 (keeping both GPU and CPU on 100% load for an hour), my temperatures ended up as the following:

CPU - ~83C
Motherboard - 52C
GPU - 66C
SSD - 37C
HDD - 36C

Lastly, if the CPU is running warmer because of the loop flow, would it be beneficial, and possible with my DDC pump, to do a series/parallel loop combination like this?

Reservoir -> pump -> (GPU and CPU in parallel) -> radiator -> reservoir

I'm also going to be testing this with the fans set to intake, although last I remember that made the build run warmer over-all.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey friends. So, I've got a question. For those of you who've seen my build, it's very compact. Now, I finally got around to benchmarking the temperatures of my build, and I came across something I find... Interesting. My CPU (which is an i7-5820K, stock clock) runs significantly cooler than my GPU (GTX 980 stock clock.) I can only think of two reasons for this. The first being, my loop order is:
> 
> Reservoir -> pump -> GTX 980 -> i7-5820K -> radiator -> reservoir
> 
> Is the liquid from the GPU causing the CPU to run warmer? From what I've heard, loops end up having an equilibrium of temperature, and I thought that positioning of (say GPU to CPU, or CPU to GPU) didn't really make a difference?
> 
> My next guess would be that warm air from the radiator is getting warmed-up, and causing a heat-soak effect. But that's odd, because the motherboard doesn't really run hot. And in this configuration, my fans are actually currently set to exhaust air. So right now, (see image below), I have just two 120mm fans, pulling air through a radiator, and nothing else in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> It took about an hour, and I still think there were maybe just a degree or two the build could have gained, but, after running Furmark and AIDA64 (keeping both GPU and CPU on 100% load for an hour), my temperatures ended up as the following:
> 
> CPU - ~83C
> Motherboard - 52C
> GPU - 66C
> SSD - 37C
> HDD - 36C
> 
> Lastly, if the CPU is running warmer because of the loop flow, would it be beneficial, and possible with my DDC pump, to do a series/parallel loop combination like this?
> 
> Reservoir -> pump -> (GPU and CPU in parallel) -> radiator -> reservoir
> 
> I'm also going to be testing this with the fans set to intake, although last I remember that made the build run warmer over-all.


To me that looks more like a bad mount than a fault in the loop. I may be off in saying so, but temperatures that far off from the norm usually means a bad mount from my experience (although that is mostly on GPUs).


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> its a very very short case.


It looks like a caselabs S3.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh, the MO-RA3 Pro 140.9 was way heavier but it's also a 2 hander whereas this can be handled with one hand. The Monsta Triple 180 with coolant is a bit above 2.5 Kg but the MO-RA3 empty with all those fat tubes comes in at over 7.5 Kg.


Good to know, thanks for the info.

... And I want one of these to bench with?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> To me that looks more like a bad mount than a fault in the loop. I may be off in saying so, but temperatures that far off from the norm usually means a bad mount from my experience (although that is mostly on GPUs).


I wouldn't be too entirely surprised. I did take the block off a few times during the set up of this loop. I'll look into it when I order a new processor. Right now at idle, the build is sitting as such.

CPU - 36
Motherboard - 37
GPU - 32
SSD - 25
HDD - 34

If the GPU is that low, I'd imagine the CPU should be low as well.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I wouldn't be too entirely surprised. I did take the block off a few times during the set up of this loop. I'll look into it when I order a new processor. Right now at idle, the build is sitting as such.
> 
> CPU - 36
> Motherboard - 37
> GPU - 32
> SSD - 25
> HDD - 34
> 
> If the GPU is that low, I'd imagine the CPU should be low as well.


Here's my pc at idle for comparison (ncase with 280mm rad on it's roof) the pc has been on for a bit over an hour but i've just been surfing the net so far.



Honestly so far it seems to me that you just don't have enough airflow in your ncase for the full load testing, though that load level is higher than almost anything else you might use your computer for.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Here's my pc at idle for comparison (ncase with 280mm rad on it's roof) the pc has been on for a bit over an hour but i've just been surfing the net so far.
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly so far it seems to me that you just don't have enough airflow in your ncase for the full load testing, though that load level is higher than almost anything else you might use your computer for.


The load is definitely higher than what I'd use. What are your ambient temperatures? Mine in C for comparison to the build would be like ~21C. So, it's all running fairly warmer than ambient. I think I might just switch cases to something like a Define Nano S. It'd allow me to have a second radiator, and still fit all my components.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> The load is definitely higher than what I'd use. What are your ambient temperatures? Mine in C for comparison to the build would be like ~21C. So, it's all running fairly warmer than ambient. I think I might just switch cases to something like a Define Nano S. It'd allow me to have a second radiator, and still fit all my components.


My current ambient is about 16C.. it's "winter" here in Australia. You could try some other fans, maybe EK's Vardar F4-120ER's? They are pwm and start at about 500rpm or so, controllable up to 2200rpm so you can keep it cooler if you want to. I got one for my spare pc and I'm pretty impressed with it.. not quite as good as a scythe GT but similar with PWM control and a higher top speed.. and it's all black.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> My current ambient is about 16C.. it's "winter" here in Australia. You could try some other fans, maybe EK's Vardar F4-120ER's? They are pwm and start at about 500rpm or so, controllable up to 2200rpm so you can keep it cooler if you want to. I got one for my spare pc and I'm pretty impressed with it.. not quite as good as a scythe GT but similar with PWM control and a higher top speed.. and it's all black.


I don't think new fans will make any more than just a couple degree difference. I'm going to try what Rainmaker said, and see how the mount on the CPU is. If that doesn't fix it... I might just switch cases.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I don't think new fans will make any more than just a couple degree difference. I'm going to try what Rainmaker said, and see how the mount on the CPU is. If that doesn't fix it... I might just switch cases.


Increasing my 140mm fans from 1000rpm to 1200rpm reduced my gpu load temp from 48C to 40C, I think it will be very noticable. The higher the temps are the more difference it will make.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I don't think new fans will make any more than just a couple degree difference. I'm going to try what Rainmaker said, and see how the mount on the CPU is. If that doesn't fix it... I might just switch cases.


Are you running stock (auto) speeds and voltages? You could possibly downclock/downvolt your cpu or gpu to get rid of some wattage. You are probably trying to cool ~350W. Or, can you make the radiator fans intake and put some small exhaust fans up top?


----------



## FXformat

The new ram waterblock installed...not sure how i feel about it, it is taller than the CPU block by a good inch..



Overall setup, any game of thrones fan here?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I don't think new fans will make any more than just a couple degree difference. I'm going to try what Rainmaker said, and see how the mount on the CPU is. If that doesn't fix it... I might just switch cases.


do you know what your water temperatures are like? because that is a pretty high gpu temperature too. Most 980 blocks are under 12°c difference from the water temp so that would put your water temps over 50°c which is quite hot if it is properly mounted.

What rpm fans are you running? That is quite the load for a 240mm, I think I was using a 240mm and 280mm and wasn't ever quite satisfied with the temps when I had only 1 980


----------



## VSG

The Koolance CPU-390 blocks are out for purchase for those interested: http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=44

Some comparison data and more pics elsewhere!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Koolance CPU-390 blocks are out for purchase for those interested: http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=44
> 
> Some comparison data and more pics elsewhere!


Oh, you must mean *this* review:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/06/21/koolance-cpu-390-waterblock/


----------



## Ceadderman

Am considering the Red Clean CSQ Dominator top for my build. I currently have the Acetal top and while it looks clean, I really don't like seeing the milling marks on the face. Either I will polish it or replace it. Decisions, decisions.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Increasing my 140mm fans from 1000rpm to 1200rpm reduced my gpu load temp from 48C to 40C, I think it will be very noticable. The higher the temps are the more difference it will make.


It's possible. I'm using Noctua NF-F12's for fans. Not sure what they're speeds are though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Are you running stock (auto) speeds and voltages? You could possibly downclock/downvolt your cpu or gpu to get rid of some wattage. You are probably trying to cool ~350W. Or, can you make the radiator fans intake and put some small exhaust fans up top?


Yeah, it's stock speeds for both CPU and GPU. There's no real mounting location for the top of the case. I'm considering just doing an external radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> do you know what your water temperatures are like? because that is a pretty high gpu temperature too. Most 980 blocks are under 12°c difference from the water temp so that would put your water temps over 50°c which is quite hot if it is properly mounted.
> 
> What rpm fans are you running? That is quite the load for a 240mm, I think I was using a 240mm and 280mm and wasn't ever quite satisfied with the temps when I had only 1 980


No idea about the water temperature, or fan speeds. Come to think of it, I just realized that the pump is what I have placed on the fan header. Should that be put on a regular fan header instead, and I place my two 120mm fans on a splitter for the CPU fan header? I think the 980 is mounted right. Before when it was air cooled it got to around 81/82C, and no on water in games it rarely passes 50C. I don't think I'll be satisfied either way either. I'm just having an issue with my CPU temperature at this point. The GPU, as I said, tends to run very cool. But my idle temps are kind of high which is what's making me think somethings wrong. Their even higher than my idle temps on air were, by a pretty decent amount.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Oh, you must mean *this* review:
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/06/21/koolance-cpu-390-waterblock/


That is it! Also, I just realized I should have done a better job of cropping those Bitspower stop plugs lol. Oh well, it's not like they aren't the most popular fittings seller anyway.


----------



## Juggalo23451




----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> The new ram waterblock installed...not sure how i feel about it, it is taller than the CPU block by a good inch..
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall setup, any game of thrones fan here?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Oh, you must mean *this* review:
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/06/21/koolance-cpu-390-waterblock/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is it! Also, I just realized I should have done a better job of cropping those Bitspower stop plugs lol. Oh well, it's not like they aren't the most popular fittings seller anyway.
Click to expand...

No biggie, who needs to see all of the funky dragon logo anyhow, lol.

It was surprising that Koolance didn't use some kind of PreciseMount system. But imo they did a great job machining out the microfins, as they're now thinner, and a lot more of them.
Nice to see good port spacing, for us 1/2" x 3/4" users.

It seemed to perform rather well, up there with the best, according to the thermal performance tests.


----------



## Sulfatron

UV delight with Mayhems Oil Black..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Hey awesome build! Out of curiosity. What GPU is that? It looks really wide or is it just the block making it look like that?


Thanks, It's a 980 ti Strix OC in a Caselabs S3.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 5/8" or 16mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder












I feel as though 80% of the builds are done with 12mm fittings... Then again you have been doing this longer than I have.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> thank you. Wonder how would system with 12mm od hard tube look like.


If you need more examples, all of my builds are done with 12mm Hard Tubing. I refuse to use 16mm.

TCO


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel as though 80% of the builds are done with 12mm fittings... Then again you have been doing this longer than I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need more examples, all of my builds are done with 12mm Hard Tubing. I refuse to use 16mm.
> 
> TCO


Nice builds man. Much work, such wow








Could you tell me what fittings you were using? (dont care about angled, because i never liked them. just want to know about standard fittings)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Nice builds man. Much work, such wow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you tell me what fittings you were using? (dont care about angled, because i never liked them. just want to know about standard fittings)


Standard fittings are Bitspower C47. Deluxe White









They are sold in a pair, but I have purchased singles from Dazmode in Canada also.

TCO


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Since you're going with clear coolant, and the hard tubing conversion would be pricey, I'd recommend EK ZMT tubing.
> 
> Imo the black tubing would work well with that black and red case and your color scheme.


Alright thanks.
No issues with the EK tubing? Like platiciser?


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Correct me if I'm wrong and i could very well be, but don't all 12 & 16 mm fittings use the same G1/4 thread? Therefore the opening in the fitting is the same allowing only the volume that will fit threw it to go threw it. And most fittings from what I have seen have about a 10 mm opening, so it's really only aesthetics to go with 16 mm?

There is a question in there somewhere I swear.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> *Correct me if I'm wrong and i could very well be, but don't all 12 & 16 mm fittings use the same G1/4 thread? Therefore the opening in the fitting is the same allowing only the volume that will fit threw it to go threw it.* And most fittings from what I have seen have about a 10 mm opening, so it's really only aesthetics to go with 16 mm?
> 
> There is a question in there somewhere I swear.


Here are the diagrams for a 16mm vs a 12mm




12mm is first, 16mm is Second

I see no reason why you wouldn't be correct. The only element that could change the equation would be the pump.


----------



## Sem

i just swaped out my Alphacool ST30 420mm for a Nemesis 420 GTS and saw a 4c drop in coolant temps when running the new 3d Mark stress test with everything else being the same

didnt expect such a drop tbh

makes me want to swap out my UT60 240 for a 240 SR2 MP and go all hardware labs

even tho the coolant temps are a lot lower the GPU temps only dropped by 2c or so but then that could be within the margin of error


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> i just swaped out my Alphacool ST30 420mm for a Nemesis 420 GTS and saw a 4c drop in coolant temps when running the new 3d Mark stress test with everything else being the same
> 
> didnt expect such a drop tbh
> 
> makes me want to swap out my UT60 240 for a 240 SR2 MP and go all hardware labs
> 
> even tho the coolant temps are a lot lower the GPU temps only dropped by 2c or so but then that could be within the margin of error


If you absolutely must replace the UT60, do it with the Nemesis GTX instead.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Standard fittings are Bitspower C47. Deluxe White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are sold in a pair, but I have purchased singles from Dazmode in Canada also.
> 
> TCO


And those are the push in type fittings right? Seeing your builds i assume you had no issues with them, no leaks etc. Because i can get my hands on ek version for dirty cheap. So i wonder how those things work.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> *Correct me if I'm wrong and i could very well be, but don't all 12 & 16 mm fittings use the same G1/4 thread? Therefore the opening in the fitting is the same allowing only the volume that will fit threw it to go threw it.* And most fittings from what I have seen have about a 10 mm opening, so it's really only aesthetics to go with 16 mm?
> 
> There is a question in there somewhere I swear.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the diagrams for a 16mm vs a 12mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 12mm is first, 16mm is Second
> 
> I see no reason why you wouldn't be correct. The only element that could change the equation would be the pump.
Click to expand...

What you're not taking into consideration here is the length of the smaller, (inside the threaded area) diameter versus the length of the larger tubing diameter.

The tubing flow velocity increases when it's cross sectional area is reduced, and then slows back down again when the original larger diameter is recovered, so that when the smaller diameter makes up only a very small percentage of the total length, it doesn't do much to reduce the actual flow.

The concept that the flow thru the system is somehow ultimately determined by the inner diameter of the fitting is effectively false within the parameters of PC liquid cooling systems.

Overall, the vast majority of restriction within the loop comes from the water blocks, primarily the CPU, and the GPU blocks, and then the rads.

What small percentage of total restriction that comes from the tubing, regardless of whether it's ~12mm or ~16mm, and the restriction of the fittings, is far enough down the list that it just doesn't make any practical difference in the overall flow rate, all else staying equal.

While tubing size is really pretty much just about personal aesthetics for the most part, although the smaller size may be easier to negotiate in a small or cramped build, while conversely, it might look "lost" in a very large case with a minimal loop, . . . . it IS NOT because the fittings for both sizes have the same inside diameter.

Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> And those are the push in type fittings right? Seeing your builds i assume you had no issues with them, no leaks etc. Because i can get my hands on ek version for dirty cheap. So i wonder how those things work.


They are push in fittings. Once the tubing is seated "Correctly" then, only then, Did I not have any leaks.... I once was a scuba diver on many occasions in the builds I have created, but that is another story for another time









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What you're not taking into consideration here is the length of the smaller, (inside the threaded area) diameter versus the length of the larger tubing diameter.
> 
> The tubing flow velocity increases when it's cross sectional area is reduced, and then slows back down again when the original larger diameter is recovered, so that when the smaller diameter makes up only a very small percentage of the total length, it doesn't do much to reduce the actual flow.
> 
> The concept that the flow thru the system is somehow ultimately determined by the inner diameter of the fitting is effectively false within the parameters of PC liquid cooling systems.
> 
> Overall, the vast majority of restriction within the loop comes from the water blocks, primarily the CPU, and the GPU blocks, and then the rads.
> 
> What small percentage of total restriction that comes from the tubing, regardless of whether it's ~12mm or ~16mm, and the restriction of the fittings, is far enough down the list that it just doesn't make any practical difference in the overall flow rate, all else staying equal.
> 
> While tubing size is really pretty much just about personal aesthetics for the most part, although the smaller size may be easier to negotiate in a small or cramped build, while conversely, it might look "lost" in a very large case with a minimal loop, . . . . it IS NOT because the fittings for both sizes have the same inside diameter.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene to the Rescue, as always. I suppose I could say I was wrong









Wouldn't be the first time, or the last.









TCO


----------



## prznar1

Thx for all info TCO.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Thx for all info TCO.


Don't leave my Baby Darlene out, she bites you know









TCO


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you absolutely must replace the UT60, do it with the Nemesis GTX instead.


I did consider it but i need the extra ports for temp probes and drainage

And from the reviews ive seen theres not much in it with the SR2 having a slight lead or do you disagree


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> They are push in fittings. Once the tubing is seated "Correctly" then, only then, Did I not have any leaks.... I once was a scuba diver on many occasions in the builds I have created, but that is another story for another time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene to the Rescue, as always. I suppose I could say I was wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't be the first time, or the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The Corrected One


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> The Corrected One




TCO


----------



## taowulf

TCO[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


It's compulsive by this point.


----------



## Chopper1591

Ideas here?
I am thinking through how I want to mount my EK D5 X-res in my upcoming Enthoo Primo.

Planning to re-use the uni-holder which i have in use currently:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Want to mount the pump either to the bottom of the case using the uni-holder and probably the EK 50/70 so I can mount it like this, or secure it to the back:


Currently thinking about these two ways of mounting:
At the bottom.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Or secured to the rear. Preferably not as decoupling like that would be a PITA.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







These give the cleanest tubing routes (I think, open to suggestions).
The only problem I see is, how do I change the pump speed when the pump is so close to the bottom of the case....

Any tips here? Kinda stuck on this one.
Completely different ideas are also welcome. I still have to order stuff (EK Multiport top, tubing, cleaning kit, extra/new fittings etc etc) so I can easily change some things around. Only thing currently laying ready is the freshly painted EK CE 420 (posted on this a few pages back IIRC). Still waiting on the Enthoo Primo to be ready for shipment, I heard they were out of stock and were being freshly made by Phanteks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> TCO
> It's compulsive by this point.










I understand.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> I did consider it but i need the extra ports for temp probes and drainage
> 
> And from the reviews ive seen theres not much in it with the SR2 having a slight lead or do you disagree


Well seeing how the guy who made both rads says the SR2 was designed more for loops with multiple components (with its relatively much lower liquid flow restriction) rather than full on thermal dissipation, and he recommends the Nemesis GTX/GTR rads there instead..

If you need the multiple ports though then it's a no brainer. But consider also a T/Y/4-way splitter to get around that issue.


----------



## paskowitz

Build in progress. Evolv TG. Vinyl wrapping is being removed/replaced FYI... I know it looks bad. Future upgrades once I go 1080 Ti Classy SLI (maybe new chipset): XE 360 push/pull in the front, EK res under the PSU shroud, shorter EVGA 1000W PSU to make room.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Build in progress. Evolv TG. Vinyl wrapping is being removed/replaced FYI... I know it looks bad. Future upgrades once I go 1080 Ti Classy SLI (maybe new chipset): XE 360 push/pull in the front, EK res under the PSU shroud, shorter EVGA 1000W PSU to make room.


Don't be so hard on yourself bud, it doesn't look bad at all maybe minus the GPU sag issue that's being held up by Tupperware containers ?. But that's nothing out of the norm I've used chopsticks before until I got it to stay up properly with the tubing pushing up from underneath and then finally I gave up and bought a bracket that I absolutely hate because the ******* logos plastered on the front LOL. Great build. I love that that vinyl wrap where do you guys go about purchasing that stuff? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong section but I haven't been able to find it on the usual sites. I'd like to cover part of my in Enthoo Primo in it.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well seeing how the guy who made both rads says the SR2 was designed more for loops with multiple components (with its relatively much lower liquid flow restriction) rather than full on thermal dissipation, and he recommends the Nemesis GTX/GTR rads there instead..
> 
> If you need the multiple ports though then it's a no brainer. But consider also a T/Y/4-way splitter to get around that issue.


Also, ask the guy if he plans to expand his distribution of HWL in NA. As far as i know, only PPCS seems to carry the HWL rads. Even the GTX is non existent. Just the GTS/SR2 models are up.

Yes, FCPU is there - but do you really want to gamble your money on that place? I dont.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Don't be so hard on yourself bud, it doesn't look bad at all maybe minus the GPU sag issue that's being held up by Tupperware containers ?. But that's nothing out of the norm I've used chopsticks before until I got it to stay up properly with the tubing pushing up from underneath and then finally I gave up and bought a bracket that I absolutely hate because the ******* logos plastered on the front LOL. Great build. I love that that vinyl wrap where do you guys go about purchasing that stuff? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong section but I haven't been able to find it on the usual sites. I'd like to cover part of my in Enthoo Primo in it.


Aesthetically, I don't have a problem with the wrap, I just did a bad job cutting it.

The GPU sag is something that really concerns me. Not so much left to right, but from the PCIE slot to the front G1/4 ports. If those containers aren't there it is pretty drastic. I'm thinking my case's PCI brackets may be a bit off. If I take the PCI screws out and push the GPU level, the screw holes don't match up. I am hoping the tension between the fittings/tubing is enough to hold it. Installation will be a PIA. In the future I may have a custom carbon fiber (the real stuff) back plate custom made. Carbon fiber is an amazing material. It even transfer heat well!

I go to Amazon for most of my vinyl wrap. Anything from Vivid Vinyl is pretty good. 3M stuff is the highest quality In terms of carbon fiber vinyl, this stuff is easily the best. Most CF vinyls don't actually look like resin treated CF, that stuff does. Make sure you follow the directions though. Clean surface, hairdryer/heat gun, maybe a second set of hands, etc. There are a couple vinyl guides on OCN.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Also, ask the guy if he plans to expand his distribution of HWL in NA. As far as i know, only PPCS seems to carry the HWL rads. *Even the GTX is non existent. Just the GTS/SR2 models are up.*
> 
> Yes, FCPU is there - but do you really want to gamble your money on that place? I dont.


I see them though? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=90&q=nemesis+gtx


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ideas here?
> I am thinking through how I want to mount my EK D5 X-res in my upcoming Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Planning to re-use the uni-holder which i have in use currently:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Want to mount the pump either to the bottom of the case using the uni-holder and probably the EK 50/70 so I can mount it like this, or secure it to the back:
> 
> 
> Currently thinking about these two ways of mounting:
> At the bottom.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or secured to the rear. Preferably not as decoupling like that would be a PITA.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These give the cleanest tubing routes (I think, open to suggestions).
> The only problem I see is, how do I change the pump speed when the pump is so close to the bottom of the case....
> 
> Any tips here? Kinda stuck on this one.
> Completely different ideas are also welcome. I still have to order stuff (EK Multiport top, tubing, cleaning kit, extra/new fittings etc etc) so I can easily change some things around. Only thing currently laying ready is the freshly painted EK CE 420 (posted on this a few pages back IIRC). Still waiting on the Enthoo Primo to be ready for shipment, I heard they were out of stock and were being freshly made by Phanteks.


Mount it in either location with some EK decoupler screws. Vibration problems solved with 4 of them and you can get them separately via PPCs'.









~Ceadder


----------



## ShiftysBlade

@paskowitz thanks a bunch for the information I appreciate it. It's a common thing in GPU blocks sadly as they tend to be kind of heavy and there's not a whole lot holding them into place. I had the same issue with one of my builds. Have you ever thought about trying one of these at least to solve the issue temporarily....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DQK7DDW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466632348&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=gpu+bracket+support&dpPl=1&dpID=51Mq7JpxSiL&ref=plSrch

Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F1RUZWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466632348&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=gpu+bracket+support&dpPl=1&dpID=413OHBFJa0L&ref=plSrch

They seem to be coming out with slightly better ones and they had a couple months ago when I was looking at least they have things like GTX on the front on one of them instead of a giant brand name and the other one doesn't have anything on the front at all it's just a weaved metal pattern.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> @paskowitz thanks a bunch for the information I appreciate it. It's a common thing in GPU blocks sadly as they tend to be kind of heavy and there's not a whole lot holding them into place. I had the same issue with one of my builds. Have you ever thought about trying one of these at least to solve the issue temporarily....
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DQK7DDW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466632348&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=gpu+bracket+support&dpPl=1&dpID=51Mq7JpxSiL&ref=plSrch
> 
> Or
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F1RUZWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466632348&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=gpu+bracket+support&dpPl=1&dpID=413OHBFJa0L&ref=plSrch
> 
> They seem to be coming out with slightly better ones and they had a couple months ago when I was looking at least they have things like GTX on the front on one of them instead of a giant brand name and the other one doesn't have anything on the front at all it's just a weaved metal pattern.


NP.

I like the triangular one. Looks like something I could easily make myself.


----------



## jtom320

I have a question for you guys.

Going to be (partially) tearing down my loop (The bends from res to pump and pump to GPU because they are terrible pic below). My questions is this. Right now I have two GT's up front blowing through the front rad and then I have three more up top blowing out of the system. I can't mount a fan in the rear spot of my case (Arc Define mini 2 I think) because of the tubing.

It's against my nature to go with negative air pressure in my case. And since I've closed both sides temps have gone a good bit up (40 - 48 on GPU) I know this is as expected and I know my temps are still quite good.

My question though in a nutshell is if I should make all the fans intake (keep in mind this would be without exhaust) to give the rads max cool airflow, if I should. leave it as it is. Or if I should shove a fan under the pump and try to even it out that way at the possible cost of looks.

I know that hot air from my 240 isn't stopping my 360 from cooling I'm just wondering if anyone has run into this and what they did. I don't think I can turn my 360 around to make room for a rear fan.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I have a question for you guys.
> 
> Going to be (partially) tearing down my loop (The bends from res to pump and pump to GPU because they are terrible pic below). My questions is this. Right now I have two GT's up front blowing through the front rad and then I have three more up top blowing out of the system. I can't mount a fan in the rear spot of my case (Arc Define mini 2 I think) because of the tubing.
> 
> It's against my nature to go with negative air pressure in my case. And since I've closed both sides temps have gone a good bit up (40 - 48 on GPU) I know this is as expected and I know my temps are still quite good.
> 
> My question though in a nutshell is if I should make all the fans intake (keep in mind this would be without exhaust) to give the rads max cool airflow, if I should. leave it as it is. Or if I should shove a fan under the pump and try to even it out that way at the possible cost of looks.
> 
> I know that hot air from my 240 isn't stopping my 360 from cooling I'm just wondering if anyone has run into this and what they did. I don't think I can turn my 360 around to make room for a rear fan.


100% definitely make sure that all fans going through the radiator in intake mode. Have to find a way to make exhaust. I actually had a problem with not getting enough air out because of it luckily I have caselabs so I was able to buy ventilated psu covers and I managed to add another exhaust fan. Having fans on radiator in exhaust mode has very negative effects as I discovered when I was just starting to liquid cool I had my 480 setup that way. Have you looked into nice looking designer fans that you can mount outside of the case in the back? Also some PCI covers with much bigger holes might help.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> No idea about the water temperature, or fan speeds. Come to think of it, I just realized that the pump is what I have placed on the fan header. Should that be put on a regular fan header instead, and I place my two 120mm fans on a splitter for the CPU fan header? I think the 980 is mounted right. Before when it was air cooled it got to around 81/82C, and no on water in games it rarely passes 50C. I don't think I'll be satisfied either way either. I'm just having an issue with my CPU temperature at this point. The GPU, as I said, tends to run very cool. But my idle temps are kind of high which is what's making me think somethings wrong. Their even higher than my idle temps on air were, by a pretty decent amount.


The nf-f12's are 1500rpm i believe, depending on the exact rad it might benefit a decent amount from more powerful fans. I'd put the fans on the cpu header although most boards will allow you to control different headers with different temps, speedfan might be able to help you out. how warm is your cpu getting during normal use? or did I miss that


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> And since I've closed both sides temps have gone a good bit up (40 - 48 on GPU) I know this is as expected and I know my temps are still quite good.
> 
> My question though in a nutshell is if I should make all the fans intake (keep in mind this would be without exhaust) to give the rads max cool airflow, if I should. leave it as it is.


I disagree with the post above. If it ain't broke--don't fix it. Your temps, if they are loaded and real-world are fine, as you say. Aesthetics are why we are doing this, if it isn't temps... so yeah don't sacrifice form for function if the function is functioning.









That's just like, my opinion, man.


----------



## eucalyptus

This is my new watermark I will use for future pictures, what do you think?


----------



## ruffhi

Looks good







. Are they meant to represent eucalyptus leaves? If so, you might remove radial lines on the leaves.

BTW ... why eucalyptus as a user-name?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Are they meant to represent eucalyptus leaves? If so, you might remove radial lines on the leaves.
> 
> BTW ... why eucalyptus as a user-name?


Thanks







Leaves as leaves, not so important except they are green hahaha









Couldn't come up with another name lol, I am not really that creative when it comes to that sort of stuff














What about ruffhi?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Since you're going with clear coolant, and the hard tubing conversion would be pricey, I'd recommend EK ZMT tubing.
> 
> Imo the black tubing would work well with that black and red case and your color scheme.
> 
> 
> 
> Alright thanks.
> No issues with the EK tubing? Like platiciser?
Click to expand...

Nah, you won't have any issues with ZMT.

Here's a good link to explain it all:
https://www.ekwb.com/blog/what-is-plasticizer/


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I see them though? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=90&q=nemesis+gtx


Ah, it doesnt show up on the desktop site. Edit: Nevermind.

But nonetheless, are they planning to expand selling their HWL rads besides PPC's?

NCIX carried them before, but not in the last 7+ months or so. Or is it dependent whether the seller would choose to carry them? Need to know where to bring my pitchfork


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> And since I've closed both sides temps have gone a good bit up (40 - 48 on GPU) I know this is as expected and I know my temps are still quite good.
> 
> My question though in a nutshell is if I should make all the fans intake (keep in mind this would be without exhaust) to give the rads max cool airflow, if I should. leave it as it is.
> 
> 
> 
> I disagree with the post above. If it ain't broke--don't fix it. Your temps, if they are loaded and real-world are fine, as you say. Aesthetics are why we are doing this, if it isn't temps... so yeah don't sacrifice form for function if the function is functioning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's just like, my opinion, man.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Fans in Exhaust are not bad. Just like Fans in Intake are not better. I have mine set to Exhaust in the top of my system usually. If you have open bodied GPUs' that heat needs to leave the case. Exhaust is better for this. Intake will push heat down and where is it to go if you have all but one fan set to Intake?

My 932 had the top 230mm set as Exhaust before I installed my h50, so I put that in the top front and set that to Exhaust. My temps were in the low 40s. Then when I replaced that and went with my Black Ice Stealth I set my fans above it in Pull to Exhaust out the top. That was with my stock(no longer stock btw) 6870 Radeon HDs which dump heat out the back. So rather than Intake that heat which rose up the wall, I stuck with what worked. My new setup is changing but the top Radiator(of the three) will remain Exhaust. It will not hurt a bleedin thing.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> This is my new watermark I will use for future pictures, what do you think?


Lovely watermark! I like it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Build in progress. Evolv TG. Vinyl wrapping is being removed/replaced FYI... I know it looks bad. Future upgrades once I go 1080 Ti Classy SLI (maybe new chipset): XE 360 push/pull in the front, EK res under the PSU shroud, shorter EVGA 1000W PSU to make room.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't be so hard on yourself bud, it doesn't look bad at all maybe minus the GPU sag issue that's being held up by Tupperware containers ?. But that's nothing out of the norm I've used chopsticks before until I got it to stay up properly with the tubing pushing up from underneath and then finally I gave up and bought a bracket that I absolutely hate because the ******* logos plastered on the front LOL. Great build. I love that that vinyl wrap where do you guys go about purchasing that stuff? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong section but I haven't been able to find it on the usual sites. I'd like to cover part of my in Enthoo Primo in it.
Click to expand...

I wish I could find the link on OCN. But they make either nylon allthreads or normal allthreads with ends you can purchase that reassemble vape tank holders shape







you can make your own gpu jack with no logos.

You can even cover it with rubber tubing/heat shrink ect


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What about ruffhi?


I was playing a lot of contract bridge in RL went I first went on line. Their are suit contracts and you can win tricks by ruffing with trumps. Sometimes you need to ruff with a high card to avoid being over-ruffed ... it is called ruffing high. I enjoy that concept (my wife says I should pull trumps but I like leaving them to ruff with - but that is another story) ... so I selected _ruff_hi_ as a bridge reference coupled with a play on words (_hi ruff_).


----------



## bundymania

Howdy Folks,
I got a new neat little toy named "Eisfluegel" . You can watch it allday if u got no fishtank or so









    

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9thDj4TeY4

Or just use the little buddy as optical flow indicator


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Mount it in either location with some EK decoupler screws. Vibration problems solved with 4 of them and you can get them separately via PPCs'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I actually still have 4 of these in my case (front 140.1 radiator is suspended with them







):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Those are extra soft yellow rubber buffers.


So you say I can hard mount the Uni holder to the rear of the case and only use decoupling between the pump and the holder?
Because I tried using decoupling between the Uni holder and the case, no succes. The thing just has 2 holes so the soft decouplers won't hold it it in place.

I really want to be able to control the pump speed so attaching it to the rear helps a lot as I can place it higher that way..
Currently the pump is secured to the rear of my Corsair 650D but the vibrations are pretty noticeable.

Another idea is to try and use the Phanteks pump bracket, place it next to the 360 radiator.... no Idea if it will fit or use something else to reduce vibrations. Anyway I have to think of something to raise the pump higher so I can reach the control dial.

The EK 50/70 thingy's are like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






But I could always make my own L profile brackets to make it higher, like this DDC pump:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Looks horrible though.








Will probably settle with rear mount as it looks to float more that way. Can always combine the decoupling, Uni Holder and a reservoir mount bracket to help support the weight.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Howdy Folks,
> I got a new neat little toy named "Eisfluegel" . You can watch it allday if u got no fishtank or so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9thDj4TeY4
> 
> Or just use the little buddy as optical flow indicator


Got one too, I will be using 8 of them (not exactly the eisfügel, but similar) in my next build, and 8 other indicators





















just for the look and design purpose
















What I don't like about the eisfügel is they are only available in black and are weirdly made with half blue and half yellow propeller.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Mount it in either location with some EK decoupler screws. Vibration problems solved with 4 of them and you can get them separately via PPCs'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually still have 4 of these in my case (front 140.1 radiator is suspended with them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are extra soft yellow rubber buffers.
> 
> 
> So you say I can hard mount the Uni holder to the rear of the case and only use decoupling between the pump and the holder?
> Because I tried using decoupling between the Uni holder and the case, no succes. The thing just has 2 holes so the soft decouplers won't hold it it in place.
> 
> I really want to be able to control the pump speed so attaching it to the rear helps a lot as I can place it higher that way..
> Currently the pump is secured to the rear of my Corsair 650D but the vibrations are pretty noticeable.
> 
> Another idea is to try and use the Phanteks pump bracket, place it next to the 360 radiator.... no Idea if it will fit or use something else to reduce vibrations. Anyway I have to think of something to raise the pump higher so I can reach the control dial.
> 
> The EK 50/70 thingy's are like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I could always make my own L profile brackets to make it higher, like this DDC pump:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks horrible though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will probably settle with rear mount as it looks to float more that way. Can always combine the decoupling, Uni Holder and a reservoir mount bracket to help support the weight.
Click to expand...

iirc, EK used to make D5 mounts that look similar to their L bracket DDC mount. Only with a round opening to fit the D5.









Of course if you could stand the smexiness of the Singularity Aluminum Res mounts you could mount your setup via the Res and decouple the pump with a section of Shoggy Sandwich under the mounts.









The decoupler screws I was referring to are the black Male/Female standard. This way you can attach them to the pump first and then bracket using the included hex nuts. They sell them at PPCs and you'll know them by their lack of color since they are Black rubber. I had a set that came with my DDC v2 pump block.









Those L bracks would do the job though. Simply mount them to the case with the 90* side up and use the decouplers to mount the Pump to them. Mod a cover for them if your OCD can't handle a couple bracks sticking out like sore thumbs.









~Ceadder


----------



## eucalyptus

I might just ask here since I don't know where else, what happened to Tasy PC's youtubechannel? She is like - GONE!?? She was awesome









Any other youtubestars you are following or like, or can recommend? Already watching Linustechtips, JayZtwpcents, Hardwarecanucks, OC3D, Techsource.

Mostly watching them because it's fun and you might learn something everytime. Can for example recommend JayZtwocents for people who have never seen water cooling before, or want to start


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I made a seperate thread but there has been no replies, has anyone actually tried using the nemesis GTX 420 in fractal define R5 or S ? I would like to buy new rads but i havent seen anyone use them, fractal says the 55m limitation is because of the ram but i measured and ram wont be in the way, but getting confrirmation that it fits would be good, otherwise it`s EK-CE or alphacool UT45/60, even nemesis GTS or xflow is an option but I doubt they will outperform the alphacool UT60-s or EK-CE


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Can for example recommend JayZtwocents for people who have never seen water cooling before, or want to start


That is pretty funny since very often it is recommended not to follow Jay. He is pretty terrible. Full of bad information. Worse yet, sees himself as some kind of know it all guru.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I might just ask here since I don't know where else, what happened to Tasy PC's youtubechannel? She is like - GONE!?? She was awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any other youtubestars you are following or like, or can recommend? Already watching Linustechtips, JayZtwpcents, Hardwarecanucks, OC3D, Techsource.
> 
> Mostly watching them because it's fun and you might learn something everytime. Can for example recommend JayZtwocents for people who have never seen water cooling before, or want to start


I heard she was having some kind of relationship problems, idk.
Certainly was fun to watch, lol.

I'd pick OC3D, I like Tiny Tim Logan and his reviews.
As for Linus and Jay...........


----------



## electro2u

The best youtube wc channel by a long shot is singularity computers.


----------



## paskowitz

DAZMODE has some decent WC content. Singularity is also good. Hardware Unboxed is terrific for benchmarking. Hardware Nexus isn't bad either.

I would stear clear of Linus and Jay. After Linus's delid video I had had enough. Jay isn't as egregiously inept.


----------



## Ceadderman

I find them all entertaining and informative on one level or another. Don't see why people feel the need to hate but hate on peeps hate on.









~Ceadder


----------



## realtomatoes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I made a seperate thread but there has been no replies, has anyone actually tried using the nemesis GTX 420 in fractal define R5 or S ? I would like to buy new rads but i havent seen anyone use them, fractal says the 55m limitation is because of the ram but i measured and ram wont be in the way, but getting confrirmation that it fits would be good, otherwise it`s EK-CE or alphacool UT45/60, even nemesis GTS or xflow is an option but I doubt they will outperform the alphacool UT60-s or EK-CE


i think i saw someone do that on reddit /watercooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> That is pretty funny since very often it is recommended not to follow Jay. He is pretty terrible. Full of bad information. Worse yet, sees himself as some kind of know it all guru.


and here i thought it was only me who thought that. most of my buddies like him. different folk, different strokes.


----------



## jtom320

Dunno I like Jay. I haven't seen anything egregious from him and he's put together some really nice systems.

But for like serious in depth system building I've always really enjoyed Singularity's stuff. Really like the Prodigy build he did a year or so back.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Howdy Folks,
> I got a new neat little toy named "Eisfluegel" . You can watch it allday if u got no fishtank or so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9thDj4TeY4
> 
> Or just use the little buddy as optical flow indicator


thats pretty sweet. I would attach it to a side window myself then attach a tachometer to it running for frontside case view, with a variable speed pump it would be pretty cool to play with.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> iirc, EK used to make D5 mounts that look similar to their L bracket DDC mount. Only with a round opening to fit the D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course if you could stand the smexiness of the Singularity Aluminum Res mounts you could mount your setup via the Res and decouple the pump with a section of Shoggy Sandwich under the mounts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The decoupler screws I was referring to are the black Male/Female standard. This way you can attach them to the pump first and then bracket using the included hex nuts. They sell them at PPCs and you'll know them by their lack of color since they are Black rubber. I had a set that came with my DDC v2 pump block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those L bracks would do the job though. Simply mount them to the case with the 90* side up and use the decouplers to mount the Pump to them. Mod a cover for them if your OCD can't handle a couple bracks sticking out like sore thumbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You mean this mount?


I am actually using that one already. Killed one of the black buffers that came with it. But the yellow's should do the job.

I plan te use that mount. it is more that I was thinking of a way to actually mount it vertical









Will have to see how things measure out when I finally do receive my Primo. Taking ages









I can live with some L profiles if I have to. Most important is: vibration reduction and being able to reach the little knob on the D5. Boy do I wish I just got the D5 with aquabus.

Best case scenario is: mounting the phanteks pump bracket on the rear bottom (has dampening on both sides)>L profile with a strip of rubber>d5 uni holder>yellow decouplers>d5.


----------



## wizardbro

Is there any difference at all between these two manual speed setting d5s or just the sticker on the back?
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2750
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor
One is a good 15 dollars cheaper than the other from where I'm buying. I'm looking at manual speed setting because I don't care about pwm at all.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Is there any difference at all between these two manual speed setting d5s or just the sticker on the back?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2750
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor
> One is a good 15 dollars cheaper than the other from where I'm buying. I'm looking at manual speed setting because I don't care about pwm at all.


They're both standard D5 Varios.

I've been running two of them for around three years now, been very reliable.
I just do a set it and forget it on the speed control, I like to run them full tilt on 5.

I bought mine from Dazmode:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/bare_pumps/

But the price has gone up on them quite a bit since then, lol.


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> They're both standard D5 Varios.
> 
> I've been running two of them for around three years now, been very reliable.
> I just do a set it and forget it on the speed control, I like to run them full tilt on 5.
> 
> I bought mine from Dazmode:
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/bare_pumps/
> 
> But the price has gone up on them quite a bit since then, lol.


Thanks, sounds good. I'm planning to run it around 3 speed. How do you have yours mounted?
Wonder if it will vibrate when mounted against a case wall using a plain steel mount. Do you think I should I put a bit of foam between the steel mount and the case?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> They're both standard D5 Varios.
> 
> I've been running two of them for around three years now, been very reliable.
> I just do a set it and forget it on the speed control, I like to run them full tilt on 5.
> 
> I bought mine from Dazmode:
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/bare_pumps/
> 
> But the price has gone up on them quite a bit since then, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, sounds good. I'm planning to run it around 3 speed. How do you have yours mounted?
> Wonder if it will vibrate when mounted against a case wall using a plain steel mount. Do you think I should I put a bit of foam between the steel mount and the case?
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's best to use some foam to cushion and dampen the pump.
Here's an older photo of mine:


Ignore the ugly psu cables,lol. I'm currently doing an upgrade with some new cables.

I made a homemade "Shoggy Sandwich" for my D5 mounting plates, using some pump foam kits I bought some time ago.
I also used industrial grade Velcro pads to attach the base, it works well on the case floor, but you may need bolts if you're side-mounting the pump base.

Edit:
Sorry about the previous tiny photo, I re-submitted a larger image.
Not that my crappy photos are worth the trouble, lol.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

How loud are the d5 pumps if isolated from the case properly ? I mean if it`s on speed 2/5 can I hear it at all ?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> How loud are the d5 pumps if isolated from the case properly ? I mean if it`s on speed 2/5 can I hear it at all ?


Depends how good your hearing is, lol.

So many variables for different setups, but I find mine to be very quiet and no vibration issues, even on full speed.
But my hearing isn't what it used to be, lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Jayztwopence....all the gear,no idea.

How can anyone take him seriously?


----------



## ruffhi

Does he take himself seriously? I view him as an entertainer, not as a knowledgeable leader in the field. Hmmm ... reminds me of some politicians.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Does he take himself seriously? I view him as an entertainer, not as a knowledgeable leader in the field. Hmmm ... reminds me of some politicians.


Sadly others do and thats the problem.....


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Does he take himself seriously? I view him as an entertainer, not as a knowledgeable leader in the field. Hmmm ... reminds me of some politicians.


I thought it's his style... kind of entertaining tv presenter that wants to draw attention and keep it interesting.
His lack of technical language and the way he explains, I think it's to make his videos easy to understand for ppl with different levels of experience.
I don't like his videos, I don't find them helpful in any way but they are different than other reviewers, I must give him that.


----------



## paskowitz

Anyone here have experience with filters? IE like the Aquacomputer filter. I know the particles, plasticizer, corrosion, etc should NOT be a problem if I do my job correctly. In the past, I have not done "my job correctly", so I ask.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Anyone here have experience with filters? IE like the Aquacomputer filter. I know the particles, plasticizer, corrosion, etc should be a problem if I do my job correctly. In the past, I have not done "my job correctly", so I ask.


Not worth it.

They restrict flow for no benefit


----------



## Ceadderman

Never used them either.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> iirc, EK used to make D5 mounts that look similar to their L bracket DDC mount. Only with a round opening to fit the D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course if you could stand the smexiness of the Singularity Aluminum Res mounts you could mount your setup via the Res and decouple the pump with a section of Shoggy Sandwich under the mounts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The decoupler screws I was referring to are the black Male/Female standard. This way you can attach them to the pump first and then bracket using the included hex nuts. They sell them at PPCs and you'll know them by their lack of color since they are Black rubber. I had a set that came with my DDC v2 pump block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those L bracks would do the job though. Simply mount them to the case with the 90* side up and use the decouplers to mount the Pump to them. Mod a cover for them if your OCD can't handle a couple bracks sticking out like sore thumbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You mean this mount?
> 
> 
> I am actually using that one already. Killed one of the black buffers that came with it. But the yellow's should do the job.
> 
> I plan te use that mount. it is more that I was thinking of a way to actually mount it vertical
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will have to see how things measure out when I finally do receive my Primo. Taking ages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can live with some L profiles if I have to. Most important is: vibration reduction and being able to reach the little knob on the D5. Boy do I wish I just got the D5 with aquabus.
> 
> Best case scenario is: mounting the phanteks pump bracket on the rear bottom (has dampening on both sides)>L profile with a strip of rubber>d5 uni holder>yellow decouplers>d5.
Click to expand...

Yup thos're them. That's what I would use. Although the two point mounting setup gives me some pawz.









~Ceadder


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Never used them either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup thos're them. That's what I would use. Although the two point mounting setup gives me some pawz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I know, right.
I can always drill some extra holes in the holder but it will be a pita without a column drill and I doubt it would help that much.
Like this:


I tried everything to reduce the vibrations with the Uni holder, screw-less fan mounts to secure the Uni holder to the case (didn't hold), multiple layers of rubber (not so good). Currently I have dampening between the screw heads, between the holder and the case AND between the case and the nuts. So it's like screw>rubber>holder>rubber>case>rubber>nut.









Besides that I have used an alternative to the Shoggy, the Phobya decoupling.
I cut up the foam and rubber so I can place the pump on it, with the actual round housing sticking in/through the foam.
Like this:


But the problem with using it this way is that it tends to collapse under the weight as there is practically 75% less... the sides are pretty thin so they sack in easily.
And even nog with the massive dampening (I guess) I still hear the pump and feel the vibrations through the desk.









I even though about suspending the pump somehow, use elastics to hang it in the case.









As I had experienced such problems with dampening the pump vibrations and still not having eliminated it completely I just want to do it right when I rebuild in the Primo.
My doubt is: is the rear of the Primo that more solid so I can mount the pump/res combo to it without having vibration issues again.


----------



## Kranik

Now that I'm done with book learning for the next couple months I finally had time to work on this again. I'm just not sure I like the way that a bent tube is going to look in there. Still deciding whether to put it together and see how it looks or scrap the idea and pick up two more fittings.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Is there any difference at all between these two manual speed setting d5s or just the sticker on the back?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2750
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor
> One is a good 15 dollars cheaper than the other from where I'm buying. I'm looking at manual speed setting because I don't care about pwm at all.


Feel free to check out my mod I have in my sig, easy speed changes for life.


----------



## Gabrielzm

it is absolutely silent if you mount on the floor like that. whenever you mount on the walls of the case vibration tend to amplify and be transmitted to the case and is hard to have a good decouple because gravity acts against you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I know, right.
> I can always drill some extra holes in the holder but it will be a pita without a column drill and I doubt it would help that much.
> Like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried everything to reduce the vibrations with the Uni holder, screw-less fan mounts to secure the Uni holder to the case (didn't hold), multiple layers of rubber (not so good). Currently I have dampening between the screw heads, between the holder and the case AND between the case and the nuts. So it's like screw>rubber>holder>rubber>case>rubber>nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides that I have used an alternative to the Shoggy, the Phobya decoupling.
> I cut up the foam and rubber so I can place the pump on it, with the actual round housing sticking in/through the foam.
> Like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the problem with using it this way is that it tends to collapse under the weight as there is practically 75% less... the sides are pretty thin so they sack in easily.
> And even nog with the massive dampening (I guess) I still hear the pump and feel the vibrations through the desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even though about suspending the pump somehow, use elastics to hang it in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I had experienced such problems with dampening the pump vibrations and still not having eliminated it completely I just want to do it right when I rebuild in the Primo.
> My doubt is: is the rear of the Primo that more solid so I can mount the pump/res combo to it without having vibration issues again.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is absolutely silent if you mount on the floor like that. whenever you mount on the walls of the case vibration tend to amplify and be transmitted to the case and is hard to have a good decouple because gravity acts against you.


Hmm, thanks for sharing.
Is that a original Shoggy? (I know black ones exist, but this looks different).

I am curious to how it will hold when I use that with the reservoir mounted on top of the pump (a lot more weight there).
It should decouple great, for sure. But no way to control pump speed it seems. Although I could just run it at 5 all the time.









Do you have a reservoir mount or is it resting on the pump through the tubing?
Also, does it sit snug in the foam? I had a hard time trimming my Phobya decoupler. Lastly, is the thickness of the sandwhich thick enough so the pump top rests on the top layer while the pump rests on the lower layer?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hmm, thanks for sharing.
> Is that a original Shoggy? (I know black ones exist, but this looks different).
> 
> I am curious to how it will hold when I use that with the reservoir mounted on top of the pump (a lot more weight there).
> It should decouple great, for sure. But no way to control pump speed it seems. Although I could just run it at 5 all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a reservoir mount or is it resting on the pump through the tubing?
> Also, does it sit snug in the foam? I had a hard time trimming my Phobya decoupler. Lastly, is the thickness of the sandwhich thick enough so the pump top rests on the top layer while the pump rests on the lower layer?


original Shoggy. Like in the third pic reservoir is connect it to it with a tube. Reservoir is fixed to the case wall. Shogy is fixed to the base of the case. Yes like in the first and second pic where I show you the bottom and the lateral view of the pump into the Shoggy (I guess Shoggy would not like this phrase construction...). That is the assembly that went into the case. Perfect silently.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm changing cases, and making a big change because I want more power and wasn't satisfied with my temps before.

I'm going to be setting up a loop, with an i7-6950X (Going to try and reach 4.0GHz, but maybe just 3.5 if 4.0 is too hot/unstable.) And probably for now, two GTX 980's. I'll be using EK blocks for all of it, and two 360mm radiators. My question is, should I get a different pump? My current one is a DDC. Will that be strong enough? Also, I'll post quick renders of the loop mock-up later and we can make a nice loop flow. Not sure if I want to do parallel or series, or series-parallel. So, we'll likely have a few drafts.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm changing cases, and making a big change because I want more power and wasn't satisfied with my temps before.
> 
> I'm going to be setting up a loop, with an i7-6950X (Going to try and reach 4.0GHz, but maybe just 3.5 if 4.0 is too hot/unstable.) And probably for now, two GTX 980's. I'll be using EK blocks for all of it, and two 360mm radiators. My question is, should I get a different pump? My current one is a DDC. Will that be strong enough? Also, I'll post quick renders of the loop mock-up later and we can make a nice loop flow. Not sure if I want to do parallel or series, or series-parallel. So, we'll likely have a few drafts.


I have a single DDC running fluid through a cpu block, 2 x 360mm rads and a GPU block in parallel, with no flow issues whatsoever.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

The new caselabs BH4 on top of Chessboard (SMA8). What a beautiful little case. Just got it today. Don't mind the floor of the office. While I am building things look like a war zone...


----------



## brazilianloser

That BH4 looks good indeed. But that Caselabs cost... I can't wait to see builds on it though.


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Now that I'm done with book learning for the next couple months I finally had time to work on this again. I'm just not sure I like the way that a bent tube is going to look in there. Still deciding whether to put it together and see how it looks or scrap the idea and pick up two more fittings.


The white looks amazing.. ek-tiborr gets some amazing deltas and temps in a setup just like that.
The coil whine from my gpu under load would drive me mad in open air like that though. A closed case does a pretty good job of dampening it.


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys, has anyone here ever sold GPU's that had waterblocks on them? I was wondering how I would package and ship my GPU's with waterblocks on them without damaging them.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys, has anyone here ever sold GPU's that had waterblocks on them? I was wondering how I would package and ship my GPU's with waterblocks on them without damaging them.


I bought some cards with blocks on them from OCN marketplace. They were blocked up and shipped in the original plastic package.



TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I bought some cards with blocks on them from OCN marketplace. They were blocked up and shipped in the original plastic package.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Awesome, Thanks! I don't know why I didn't think of that in the first place lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Awesome, Thanks! I don't know why I didn't think of that in the first place lol


Everything I do, I do for you









TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Everything I do, I do for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The Caring One


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> The Caring One


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Awesome, Thanks! I don't know why I didn't think of that in the first place lol


make sure you tape up the ports that you don't have plugs for. I've sent a few out and sometimes they have left over water and leak out even after drying them for a day or two. I've used original packaging or bubble wrap around it if I didn't have the originals.


----------



## Chopper1591

Yo all

Looks like the Primo will take a while before being back in stock.

I am tempted to change plans and get a Core x9 instead.

Ideas?
The case looks nice but I am scaptic about build quality... being TT and all


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I might just ask here since I don't know where else, what happened to Tasy PC's youtubechannel? She is like - GONE!?? She was awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any other youtubestars you are following or like, or can recommend? Already watching Linustechtips, JayZtwpcents, Hardwarecanucks, OC3D, Techsource.
> 
> Mostly watching them because it's fun and you might learn something everytime. Can for example recommend JayZtwocents for people who have never seen water cooling before, or want to start


As others have mentioned, Singularity Computers!

I also like Tek Syndicate.


----------



## Artah

Changing one of my rigs around, putting in 11x140mm rad and 5 waterblocks. Should I add another D5 pump? I've never put that much on a single pump before. Thoughts?


----------



## prznar1

From what i know, single ddc would push it no problem. But d5 have much less head pressure so i would use two on your place.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> As others have mentioned, Singularity Computers!
> 
> I also like Tek Syndicate.


I second this and HIGHLY recommend thoroughly watching as much Singularity computer videos as you can, in particular his client build log videos. If you want a little more direction, you can go to Singularitys facebook page, go to the photo albums and then look through at the different builds.... perhaps pick one or a few that you like in particular, then watch the corresponding build log for it, as his youtube channel has playlists setup for each client build.

I really cant stress enough how extremely helpful Daniels information has been for me to progress as a builder. His philosophies and taste in aesthetics are also, in my opinion, bar none as he just seems to keep streamlined looks that are balanced perfectly in every aspect of his machines.

It is worth mentioning however that Singularity is certainly alot more "extreme enthusiast" oriented in terms of subject matter and alot of the information applies as such, but still its very inspiring nonetheless. For me, perhaps the biggest thing I admire is how he approaches his work as a real craftsman..... I feel like this is something that is extremely rare even among some of the best builders around, so many of them are so afraid to do hard work in a garage, surrounded by sandpaper dust and power tools.... and this severely limits their potential for ideas and perspective in my opinion.

Anyone looking through my builds thats familiar with Singularity would be able to draw the obvious influence ive had, and people asking me if my computer was built by Daniel/Singularity is probably one of the best compliments ive recieved


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yo all
> 
> Looks like the Primo will take a while before being back in stock.
> 
> I am tempted to change plans and get a Core x9 instead.
> 
> Ideas?
> The case looks nice but I am scaptic about build quality... being TT and all


Chop, stick to the plan.

TCO


----------



## prznar1

Kitguru reviewed smaller case and quality was not the issue.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yo all
> 
> Looks like the Primo will take a while before being back in stock.
> 
> I am tempted to change plans and get a Core x9 instead.
> 
> Ideas?
> The case looks nice but I am scaptic about build quality... being TT and all


With the X9, you get what you pay for, just like with a Primo, or any other flagship case, you get what you pay for.

That pretty much tells you what you're going to be getting with the X9.

OTOH, it's cheap enough that you can build in it now, and upgrade to the Primo when it's available, and not feel like you wasted money.

As far as putting any credence in reviews or YouTube reviewers, consider that as soon as they start giving honest reviews of truly lame or mediocre products, they aren't going to get more products from that manufacturer to review.

So no matter how big a POS something is, the review is going to try to convince you otherwise.

When you want the real skinny, ask on the forums, and ask the people who have that product AS WELL AS higher end products to make a comparison to.

The guy with a POS and nothing better to compare it to, has no way of knowing what a POS it really is.

D.


----------



## ruffhi

IT_Diva ... sent you an PM about acrylic a few days ago ... not sure you saw it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> IT_Diva ... sent you an PM about acrylic a few days ago ... not sure you saw it.


I think I lost track of PMs lately, will go back and have a look,

sorry, been a killer few weeks at work.

Darlene

I sent you a reply, and as I thought about it while writing, I thought it could be useful to others, and worth throwing out for everyone's review and feedback, so here it is: (with a few additional thoughts added)

"I'm wanting to do an S5 build myself, was hoping to take advantage of the ordering window for a white one this month, but alas, the Mustang needed some new tires, so it looks like I'll wait until August and get a two tone, since that may be the last opportunity.

I've been contemplating what to do about the power / reset button cabling myself, as it looks really terrible the way it is stock.

It's easy enough to replace the power button with a tiny remote control setup with a little keyfob button and receiver modded to run off the PSU's 5V standby power located in the lower area of the case, or even underneath where there's no risk of metal shielding the receiver antenna.

You really don't need a reset button anyway. . . . so that's not an issue.

The bigger issue is what to do with the USB 3 cables, as they normally are part of that same "power-reset" switch module, and are a lot stiffer and much harder to find a way to minimize their visibility.

I really do not want to give up having the USB ports on the front though.

I thought about ordering the power-reset / USB panel that the S8 uses, which mounts low to the bottom of the front panel so that no cabling shows in the upper area to see if that could be an option.

But keep in mind that that would require cutting a very precise cutout in the front trim panel, and having to paint match.

I also then thought about using a 5.25" to 3.5" bay adapter and putting the regular S5 front panel control bits horizontally in the bottom flex bay.

Either way, I'd enlarge the front panel cutout where the module normally goes and create a window there, like the front window option on the S8.

Again, it needs precise cutouts and some paint matching, but has a great aesthetic.

I guess for a super simple option, you could just use the blanking plate that would normally be there if you deselected the normal power-reset switch option, if you didn't mind the look or weren't up to the DIY window mod.

I mention all this as to convey that trying to fabricate an acrylic compartment behind the switches isn't even on my mental list of options.

For it to work, you'd almost certainly have to have an acrylic midplate, which I pretty routinely add, so you have something for it to blend in with and seem a part of.

Even then, it's a crap ton of work, and to me, at least, the most aesthetically least appealing option.

I guess if you don't need the USB, (or hacked at the plastic molding around them so they could bend much more sharply) and soldered the wires on the power and reset switches a a 90* angle so they point straight down, . . . .

The easiest thing would be to use a Bitspower res tube with a slot, about 3/4" to 1" wide, cut down the upper front and put it right up against the front panel where the switches are so the "fake res" becomes a cable management tube. Use one long enough to be able to run all the cabling from the top of the front panel to the lower chamber.

The advantage to using a res tube is that you can use a stock end cap that can be screwed to the raised side of the case below the switches and then use a small holesaw to make a big enough hole in the end cap and chassis to pass all the cabling thru.

That way you can run all the fan controller cabling from the flex bays along the top above the flex bays to the open top of the tube so everything can be pretty well hidden by the fake res.

You could put a colored stage light gel or something similar inside the tube so you couldn't see the cabling in it, . . it would just look like a second res with colored fiquid.

So far as sourcing acrylic, if you still decide to go with the acrylic compartment plan, . . . since you're in a major city, you should have plenty of retailers who could show you different options and have a selection of tools and adhesives available.

Once you get some experience and know what's what, you can go with the convenience of ordering online, but seeing the options in person helps you make a better choice the first time around.

Think about some of the ideas I put out to you . . . and when you decide on which path you want to follow, let me know and I'll do my best to be of help."

Here's a couple pics of how I did the cable management on my S8 build, fortunately, it doesn't have the same switch setup the S5 does, but if you relocate the switches/USB on the S5, this would work nicely for the top rad fans and lighting.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I think I lost track of PMs lately, will go back and have a look,
> 
> sorry, been a killer few weeks at work.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> I sent you a reply, and as I thought about it while writing, I thought it could be useful to others, and worth throwing out for everyone's review and feedback, so here it is: (with a few additional thoughts added)
> 
> "I'm wanting to do an S5 build myself, was hoping to take advantage of the ordering window for a white one this month, but alas, the Mustang needed some new tires, so it looks like I'll wait until August and get a two tone, since that may be the last opportunity.
> 
> I've been contemplating what to do about the power / reset button cabling myself, as it looks really terrible the way it is stock.
> 
> It's easy enough to replace the power button with a tiny remote control setup with a little keyfob button and receiver modded to run off the PSU's 5V standby power located in the lower area of the case, or even underneath where there's no risk of metal shielding the receiver antenna.
> 
> You really don't need a reset button anyway. . . . so that's not an issue.
> 
> The bigger issue is what to do with the USB 3 cables, as they normally are part of that same "power-reset" switch module, and are a lot stiffer and much harder to find a way to minimize their visibility.
> 
> I really do not want to give up having the USB ports on the front though.
> 
> I thought about ordering the power-reset / USB panel that the S8 uses, which mounts low to the bottom of the front panel so that no cabling shows in the upper area to see if that could be an option.
> 
> But keep in mind that that would require cutting a very precise cutout in the front trim panel, and having to paint match.
> 
> I also then thought about using a 5.25" to 3.5" bay adapter and putting the regular S5 front panel control bits horizontally in the bottom flex bay.
> 
> Either way, I'd enlarge the front panel cutout where the module normally goes and create a window there, like the front window option on the S8.
> 
> Again, it needs precise cutouts and some paint matching, but has a great aesthetic.
> 
> I guess for a super simple option, you could just use the blanking plate that would normally be there if you deselected the normal power-reset switch option, if you didn't mind the look or weren't up to the DIY window mod.
> 
> I mention all this as to convey that trying to fabricate an acrylic compartment behind the switches isn't even on my mental list of options.
> 
> For it to work, you'd almost certainly have to have an acrylic midplate, which I pretty routinely add, so you have something for it to blend in with and seem a part of.
> 
> Even then, it's a crap ton of work, and to me, at least, the most aesthetically least appealing option.
> 
> I guess if you don't need the USB, (or hacked at the plastic molding around them so they could bend much more sharply) and soldered the wires on the power and reset switches a a 90* angle so they point straight down, . . . .
> 
> The easiest thing would be to use a Bitspower res tube with a slot, about 3/4" to 1" wide, cut down the upper front and put it right up against the front panel where the switches are so the "fake res" becomes a cable management tube. Use one long enough to be able to run all the cabling from the top of the front panel to the lower chamber.
> 
> The advantage to using a res tube is that you can use a stock end cap that can be screwed to the raised side of the case below the switches and then use a small holesaw to make a big enough hole in the end cap and chassis to pass all the cabling thru.
> 
> That way you can run all the fan controller cabling from the flex bays along the top above the flex bays to the open top of the tube so everything can be pretty well hidden by the fake res.
> 
> You could put a colored stage light gel or something similar inside the tube so you couldn't see the cabling in it, . . it would just look like a second res with colored fiquid.
> 
> 
> So far as sourcing acrylic, if you still decide to go with the acrylic compartment plan, . . . since you're in a major city, you should have plenty of retailers who could show you different options and have a selection of tools and adhesives available.
> 
> Once you get some experience and know what's what, you can go with the convenience of ordering online, but seeing the options in person helps you make a better choice the first time around.
> 
> Think about some of the ideas I put out to you . . . and when you decide on which path you want to follow, let me know and I'll do my best to be of help."
> 
> Here's a couple pics of how I did the cable management on my S8 build, fortunately, it doesn't have the same switch setup the S5 does, but if you relocate the switches/USB on the S5, this would work nicely for the top rad fans and lighting.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Akira helped me get mine made by a really nice guy from Canada Gdesmo is his user name. This is the one he made for me. Akira has one in his S5 build log too.


----------



## khemist

Looks awesome!, wd.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I think I lost track of PMs lately, will go back and have a look,
> 
> sorry, been a killer few weeks at work.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> I sent you a reply, and as I thought about it while writing, I thought it could be useful to others, and worth throwing out for everyone's review and feedback, so here it is: (with a few additional thoughts added)
> 
> "I'm wanting to do an S5 build myself, was hoping to take advantage of the ordering window for a white one this month, but alas, the Mustang needed some new tires, so it looks like I'll wait until August and get a two tone, since that may be the last opportunity.
> 
> I've been contemplating what to do about the power / reset button cabling myself, as it looks really terrible the way it is stock.
> 
> It's easy enough to replace the power button with a tiny remote control setup with a little keyfob button and receiver modded to run off the PSU's 5V standby power located in the lower area of the case, or even underneath where there's no risk of metal shielding the receiver antenna.
> 
> You really don't need a reset button anyway. . . . so that's not an issue.
> 
> The bigger issue is what to do with the USB 3 cables, as they normally are part of that same "power-reset" switch module, and are a lot stiffer and much harder to find a way to minimize their visibility.
> 
> I really do not want to give up having the USB ports on the front though.
> 
> I thought about ordering the power-reset / USB panel that the S8 uses, which mounts low to the bottom of the front panel so that no cabling shows in the upper area to see if that could be an option.
> 
> But keep in mind that that would require cutting a very precise cutout in the front trim panel, and having to paint match.
> 
> I also then thought about using a 5.25" to 3.5" bay adapter and putting the regular S5 front panel control bits horizontally in the bottom flex bay.
> 
> Either way, I'd enlarge the front panel cutout where the module normally goes and create a window there, like the front window option on the S8.
> 
> Again, it needs precise cutouts and some paint matching, but has a great aesthetic.
> 
> I guess for a super simple option, you could just use the blanking plate that would normally be there if you deselected the normal power-reset switch option, if you didn't mind the look or weren't up to the DIY window mod.
> 
> I mention all this as to convey that trying to fabricate an acrylic compartment behind the switches isn't even on my mental list of options.
> 
> For it to work, you'd almost certainly have to have an acrylic midplate, which I pretty routinely add, so you have something for it to blend in with and seem a part of.
> 
> Even then, it's a crap ton of work, and to me, at least, the most aesthetically least appealing option.
> 
> I guess if you don't need the USB, (or hacked at the plastic molding around them so they could bend much more sharply) and soldered the wires on the power and reset switches a a 90* angle so they point straight down, . . . .
> 
> The easiest thing would be to use a Bitspower res tube with a slot, about 3/4" to 1" wide, cut down the upper front and put it right up against the front panel where the switches are so the "fake res" becomes a cable management tube. Use one long enough to be able to run all the cabling from the top of the front panel to the lower chamber.
> 
> The advantage to using a res tube is that you can use a stock end cap that can be screwed to the raised side of the case below the switches and then use a small holesaw to make a big enough hole in the end cap and chassis to pass all the cabling thru.
> 
> That way you can run all the fan controller cabling from the flex bays along the top above the flex bays to the open top of the tube so everything can be pretty well hidden by the fake res.
> 
> You could put a colored stage light gel or something similar inside the tube so you couldn't see the cabling in it, . . it would just look like a second res with colored fiquid.
> 
> 
> So far as sourcing acrylic, if you still decide to go with the acrylic compartment plan, . . . since you're in a major city, you should have plenty of retailers who could show you different options and have a selection of tools and adhesives available.
> 
> Once you get some experience and know what's what, you can go with the convenience of ordering online, but seeing the options in person helps you make a better choice the first time around.
> 
> Think about some of the ideas I put out to you . . . and when you decide on which path you want to follow, let me know and I'll do my best to be of help."
> 
> Here's a couple pics of how I did the cable management on my S8 build, fortunately, it doesn't have the same switch setup the S5 does, but if you relocate the switches/USB on the S5, this would work nicely for the top rad fans and lighting.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Akira helped me get mine made by a really nice guy from Canada Gdesmo is his user name. This is the one he made for me. Akira has one in his S5 build log too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Are you able to scrunch the USB cables enough to fit them in too . . . with a box that wide, it looks like you could . .

Can you post a front view and right side view as well, please.

D.


----------



## ruffhi

Darlene,

I read (and re-read) your PM and thought ... this discussion should be it's own post. Then I saw that you posted it in the water cooling club thread. Ok ... close enough.

Should we pull it out to its own discussion? I bet lots of others have run into the same issues.

*S5 Power Switches (et al).*

I decided that I can do without the USB at the front. I posted about what I am planning to do a few days ago ...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Speaking of front ports with no i/o ... I ended up going with this ... UNITEK 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub with Multi-In-1 Card Reader.
> 
> Three USB ports and card reader too. The only thing that I will really miss with out a front i/o is the ability to jack in with headphones. I can overcome this by a) running an extension from the back or b) using my USB headphones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit*: It has a (really bright!) blue LED that I had to cover with some left over radiator gasket. Who gave me that idea?






So ... that takes care of the thick USB cables.

I don't want to cut into the outside shell of my computer ... my technique isn't strong enough to allow me to do that. So ... that leaves me with native S5 equipment.

I could ditch the reset ... can't you get exactly the same result by pressing and holding the power button?

Then I could relocate the power button. Either into a solid single flex bay cover or into one of the tube holes in the back. My PC is on 24/7 so it isn't as if I need the power button really handy.

*Cable Management Compartment*

I noted the goldfinger solution ... that could work. Newtocooling, do you have a pic with the side window on so that we can see how much is showing?

Re midplate ... I will be putting a mid plate in my S5 that will look very similar to a continuation of the motherboard tray. So ... there will be something there for the compartment to 'sit' on.

*Flex Bay Contents*

I think you also need to think about what is in your flex bay. There are 7 and I am planning to have ...

top - single hot sway bay for HDD
2nd - blank or ODD
3rd - fan
4th - fan
5th - fan
6th - ODD or blank
7th - future location for Aquaero

My swap bay HDD is for my back up drive and I want to make sure there is some air flow around it ... I don't like cooked HDDs.

So ... at most, I will have 2 x SATA power and 2 x SATA data cables. There are NO fans in the top of my build ... so very little cable management / routing required.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Are you able to scrunch the USB cables enough to fit them in too . . . with a box that wide, it looks like you could . .
> 
> Can you post a front view and right side view as well, please.
> 
> D.


I'm sorry D I didn't get USB on my front panel this time, but if I remember correctly the power and reset cables where a little tight.......so USB 3 might be tough. I really wanted to mount my pump and res on that shelf though so that also limited the depth of the acrylic box for me. If you"re mounting the pump and res in the floor on the PSU side, or on the front rad, you can just make the box slightly deeper.





Here are some right and front side views. I don't think they'll help though.

D you can also check @Akira749 Alexstrasza's Shrine build log as well. I got my acrylic measurements from Akira for mine. I really lucked out on the measurements to be honest. It was only my second build, and I had my heart set on mounting my pump and res on the shelf in display of the window, and if the box had been any deeper I would of been out of room!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> From what i know, single ddc would push it no problem. But d5 have much less head pressure so i would use two on your place.


Not required,a single d5 will still power thru what he has specced.

Pump requirements are massively overrated.

As for Tt stuff...purchase ethically,don't give lame companies your money. Wait for the Primo or source it elsewhere


----------



## DarthBaggins

Snagged some new Klevv Neo DDR3 2400 memory from frys, some sessi looking memory (especially at $39.99 for an 8GB kit). This should look great in my Define Nano S build


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> you can also check @Akira749 Alexstrasza's Shrine build log as well. I got my acrylic measurements from Akira for mine. I really lucked out on the measurements to be honest. It was only my second build, and I had my heart set on mounting my pump and res on the shelf in display of the window, and if the box had been any deeper I would of been out of room!


Thanks for the pics.

Here is a link for Akira's log ... http://www.overclock.net/t/1440154/build-log-alexstrasza-s-shrine-case-labs-s5/0_100

*Edit:* And here is the actual post were he talks about it ... http://www.overclock.net/t/1440154/build-log-alexstrasza-s-shrine-case-labs-s5/0_100#post_21180728

I might just see if that is an option?

*Edit 2*: Fixed he / she - oops

*Edit 3*: Link to Newtocooling's Bond build log. And a picture of the cover mod with the side attached ...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the pics.
> 
> Here is a link for Akira's log ... http://www.overclock.net/t/1440154/build-log-alexstrasza-s-shrine-case-labs-s5/0_100
> 
> *Edit:* And here is the actual post were she talks about it ... http://www.overclock.net/t/1440154/build-log-alexstrasza-s-shrine-case-labs-s5/0_100#post_21180728
> 
> I might just see if that is an option?


No problem on the pics. Akira749 is a he though. He's actually one of the EK reps now.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Snagged some new Klevv Neo DDR3 2400 memory from frys, some sessi looking memory (especially at $39.99 for an 8GB kit). This should look great in my Define Nano S build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I got some 2133 (4x4gb) recently for my build and it is perfect with the Gryphon board! I always liked it and I finally found a reason to buy it


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Chop, stick to the plan.
> 
> TCO


Done.
Case is already shipped from overclockers.co.uk (Primo black/red).









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Kitguru reviewed smaller case and quality was not the issue.


See below post from Darlene.
I was actually about to post exactly the same, albeit shorter.
It's funny how company's give for example a 9 rating to one product and give the same to something that is 3 times as expensive and way better.

But... no offense to you. Thanks for replying.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With the X9, you get what you pay for, just like with a Primo, or any other flagship case, you get what you pay for.
> 
> That pretty much tells you what you're going to be getting with the X9.
> 
> OTOH, it's cheap enough that you can build in it now, and upgrade to the Primo when it's available, and not feel like you wasted money.
> 
> As far as putting any credence in reviews or YouTube reviewers, consider that as soon as they start giving honest reviews of truly lame or mediocre products, they aren't going to get more products from that manufacturer to review.
> 
> So no matter how big a POS something is, the review is going to try to convince you otherwise.
> 
> When you want the real skinny, ask on the forums, and ask the people who have that product AS WELL AS higher end products to make a comparison to.
> 
> The guy with a POS and nothing better to compare it to, has no way of knowing what a POS it really is.
> 
> D.


Like (almost) everything. If something is cheap it usually really is. haha

To me €160 is enough to make me feel I wasted money... especially since the Primo is not that much more. If we compare it to those €500+ cases of CaseLabs it's another story...
Talking about that story... I really want one in the future. Like the look of it so much. Especially your builds, nice and pretty. Hehe
But I will probably spend as much on "extra's" like I will spend on one of those cases, knowing me (I bet you know the feeling).

Your last point is exactly why I love this place so much.... I want real experience from people. Although mostly I can guess if something is good by looking/reading about it.
But your are so right: actual first hand comparison is king. So people who have used a Primo and various other cases....

Sure, you have people that move from a 30-40 dollar Cooler-Master case to the TT Core x9 and say: WOW this is the best case.... etc etc.
And then a few years later (if at all) they move to a CaseLabs for example and say................ you know the story.

Bottom line:
Take reviews with a grain (or sack) of salt.
I like reading normal (realistic) reviews.

Looking forward to my case.
Will make a little (or not so little) log for it. Don't hate please, will be my first log here.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the pics.
> 
> Here is a link for Akira's log ... http://www.overclock.net/t/1440154/build-log-alexstrasza-s-shrine-case-labs-s5/0_100
> 
> *Edit:* And here is the actual post were she talks about it ... http://www.overclock.net/t/1440154/build-log-alexstrasza-s-shrine-case-labs-s5/0_100#post_21180728
> 
> I might just see if that is an option?
> 
> 
> 
> No problem on the pics. Akira749 is a he though. He's actually one of the EK reps now.
Click to expand...

I can see the attraction in the boxlike compartment behind the left side of the front panel . . . easy enough to do, functional, and not too unsightly with the sides on.

I used a very similar idea, but full width and angled with mirror acrylic in both of my X9 builds.

It really didn't occur to me for the S5, in as much as the Caselabs mercury series just screams to me for windows in the front, while the X9 screams hide my fugly cheapness.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Some parts for the Caselabs build...


----------



## prznar1

My gf is sick. Project is in stand by mode now.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some parts for the Caselabs build...


Hmm..
Where do this Klevv goodies come from all the sudden?

Did I crawl from under a rock? I haven't seen nor heard about them before. Are they new?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hmm..
> Where do this Klevv goodies come from all the sudden?
> 
> Did I crawl from under a rock? I haven't seen nor heard about them before. Are they new?


I believe they (Essence Core... of which Klevv is a product brand) are division of SK Hynix.

They are indeed smexy memory. Material quality is also good (unlike Avexir).


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I believe they (Essence Core... of which Klevv is a product brand) are division of SK Hynix.
> 
> They are indeed smexy memory. Material quality is also good (unlike Avexir).


One could expect that, seeing the price they ask.
Then again, quality equals money.









I stopped skimping on hardware a while ago.
Currently using G.Skill 8gb ddr3 2400 c9 which are very nice for the price IMO. Paid like €110 or something back when I got them.


----------



## prznar1

Nice heatsink. This light is great. Is it stock or did you modded them?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Those are stock HS's on the Klevv Genuine series with LEDs
Looks like it's Klevv day lol. I've been wanting a set for a while now and saw that deal Fry's has this morning and had to jump on it. Would've gone with two kits but all that will fit in the Nano build is a single kit. Really can't wait to install it too.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> One could expect that, seeing the price they ask.
> Then again, quality equals money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I stopped skimping on hardware a while ago.
> Currently using G.Skill 8gb ddr3 2400 c9 which are very nice for the price IMO. Paid like €110 or something back when I got them.


I paid $92.11 for a 2x8Gb 2666Mhz kit. Although now prices are crazy. Although the 4x4 kits on Newegg are actually the cheapest 16gbx2666 DDR3 available ATM according to PC Part Picker. Timings are an ok 12-13-13-35.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Nice heatsink. This light is great. Is it stock or did you modded them?


That is how they come. The light is a little redish in person but on camera it is white.


----------



## VSG

Klevv announced their brand and first products at PAX South, 2015. I remember being surprised to see a new RAM company launching then instead of Computes, but was happy about it anyway as I got to see it in person.


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> This is my mostly sponsored DOOM build, so coolant will be EK's Concentrated Blood Red. Thinking of doing a 280 CE in the roof with a 360 PE in the front. Also thinking of doing a tube res with a DDC mounted horizontally right above the PSU on the "basement" floor. That should leave enough room for the Revenant statue to the right if the GPUs.
> 
> Just hard pressed to do PETG or Soft tubing...


I would think that PTEG would be cooler obviously.But i would think some wild sharp turns would be in order.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I can see the attraction in the boxlike compartment behind the left side of the front panel . . . easy enough to do, functional, and not too unsightly with the sides on.
> 
> I used a very similar idea, but full width and angled with mirror acrylic in both of my X9 builds.
> 
> It really didn't occur to me for the S5, in as much as the Caselabs mercury series just screams to me for windows in the front, while the X9 screams hide my fugly cheapness.


Holy pumps and snakes batman. This thing reminds me of the pump house in the water tower pumping station!!


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> One could expect that, seeing the price they ask.
> Then again, quality equals money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I stopped skimping on hardware a while ago.
> Currently using G.Skill 8gb ddr3 2400 c9 which are very nice for the price IMO. Paid like €110 or something back when I got them.


AS beautiful as this ram truly is, and it really is. I spent 1/5th on a set of 24GB budget crucial Ballistix, and it will run 2200 9-9-9-24 1.575V's.
If I were to buy the 8gb stick I would be looking at what, $500.

That is just crazy


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> This is my mostly sponsored DOOM build, so coolant will be EK's Concentrated Blood Red. Thinking of doing a 280 CE in the roof with a 360 PE in the front. Also thinking of doing a tube res with a DDC mounted horizontally right above the PSU on the "basement" floor. That should leave enough room for the Revenant statue to the right if the GPUs.
> 
> Just hard pressed to do PETG or Soft tubing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would think that PTEG would be cooler obviously.But i would think some wild sharp turns would be in order.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I can see the attraction in the boxlike compartment behind the left side of the front panel . . . easy enough to do, functional, and not too unsightly with the sides on.
> 
> I used a very similar idea, but full width and angled with mirror acrylic in both of my X9 builds.
> 
> It really didn't occur to me for the S5, in as much as the Caselabs mercury series just screams to me for windows in the front, while the X9 screams hide my fugly cheapness.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Holy pumps and snakes batman. This thing reminds me of the pump house in the water tower pumping station!!
Click to expand...

2 D5 pumps
2 Reservoirs
2 Flow meters
2 Loops
1 480 Rad

Seeing it all work together . . . priceless

D.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> AS beautiful as this ram truly is, and it really is. I spent 1/5th on a set of 24GB budget crucial Ballistix, and it will run 2200 9-9-9-24 1.575V's.
> If I were to buy the 8gb stick I would be looking at what, $500.
> 
> That is just crazy


Hmm. Ok.
That's even worse than I thought.


----------



## muzammil84

speaking of KLEVV.. these are mine


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Done.
> Case is already shipped from overclockers.co.uk (Primo black/red).


That's what Im talking about.

TCO


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> speaking of KLEVV.. these are mine


Even their "budget" ram looks great. I am surprised they aren't more popular.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Even their "budget" ram looks great. I am surprised they aren't more popular.


I'm not the biggest fan of it but it matches my color scheme perfectly, that's the only reason I bought it(and price too, they were really cheap, I guess because of the color







).
Amazon.co.uk sells them much cheaper than ebay


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some parts for the Caselabs build...


Do you have a build log for this one? That is the motherboard that I just picked up too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Do you have a build log for this one? That is the motherboard that I just picked up too.


Not yet,recovering from treatment for another DVT,4 operations in 4days...very sore. Currently in A&E because I'm allergic to the heparin injections I have to do twice a day...

I cant catch break right now,it would probably give me aids or something instead....


----------



## wizardbro

I'm about to submit my first WC build log. What's the difference between the intel build log and case mod work logs sub forums? I see custom cases in either one.


----------



## electro2u

People just seem to pick whichever but the difference *should* be that case mods logs are for modified builds like scratch builds and cut/grinder cases. I think Intel logs is the more common place to post.

Either way if you aren't getting traffic or just want to spread the word, post a photo (or a bunch in spoiler tags) and link it from this thread.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not yet,recovering from treatment for another DVT,4 operations in 4days...very sore. Currently in A&E because I'm allergic to the heparin injections I have to do twice a day...
> 
> I cant catch break right now,it would probably give me aids or something instead....


i hope you get yourself sorted soon b. you have to much going for you in your life to be sidelined right now


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not required,a single d5 will still power thru what he has specced.
> 
> Pump requirements are massively overrated.
> 
> As for Tt stuff...purchase ethically,don't give lame companies your money. Wait for the Primo or source it elsewhere


Two more bits of good advise, from B NEG.
Rep+









I prefer to use the term "ThermalFake".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> *Done.
> Case is already shipped from overclockers.co.uk (Primo black/red).*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like (almost) everything. If something is cheap it usually really is. haha
> 
> To me €160 is enough to make me feel I wasted money... especially since the Primo is not that much more. If we compare it to those €500+ cases of CaseLabs it's another story...
> Talking about that story... I really want one in the future. Like the look of it so much. Especially your builds, nice and pretty. Hehe
> But I will probably spend as much on "extra's" like I will spend on one of those cases, knowing me (I bet you know the feeling).
> 
> Your last point is exactly why I love this place so much.... I want real experience from people. Although mostly I can guess if something is good by looking/reading about it.
> But your are so right: actual first hand comparison is king. So people who have used a Primo and various other cases....
> 
> Sure, you have people that move from a 30-40 dollar Cooler-Master case to the TT Core x9 and say: WOW this is the best case.... etc etc.
> And then a few years later (if at all) they move to a CaseLabs for example and say................ you know the story.
> 
> Bottom line:
> Take reviews with a grain (or sack) of salt.
> I like reading normal (realistic) reviews.
> 
> Looking forward to my case.
> Will make a little (or not so little) log for it. Don't hate please, will be my first log here.


Good choice on getting that Primo.








Looking forward to the build log.


----------



## Sazexa

So this is an extremely quick mock up of the planned loop configuration so far. It's pretty self explanatory, but, it's basically in series as it goes the whole way.

Reservoir/pump -> GTX 980 -> GTX 980 -> CPU -> 360mm radiator -> Either 240mm or second 360mm radiator -> reservoir/pump

Is there a better/more efficient way to do this?

As it is now, I'm debating on the second radiator's size because I believe if I go with a 360mm, I lose my 3.5" drive bay.

Case is a Phanteks Evolv ATX TG


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So this is an extremely quick mock up of the planned loop configuration so far. It's pretty self explanatory, but, it's basically in series as it goes the whole way.
> 
> Reservoir/pump -> GTX 980 -> GTX 980 -> CPU -> 360mm radiator -> Either 240mm or second 360mm radiator -> reservoir/pump
> 
> Is there a better/more efficient way to do this?
> 
> As it is now, I'm debating on the second radiator's size because I believe if I go with a 360mm, I lose my 3.5" drive bay.
> 
> Case is a Phanteks Evolv ATX TG


Res to pump is the only thing that matters. Loop order past that doesn't matter.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Res to pump is the only thing that matters. Loop order past that doesn't matter.


Does parallel vs. series flow make any difference?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Does parallel vs. series flow make any difference?


For just GPUs, to a degree, but not really enough to have a large impact. I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to run a GPU block parallel to a CPU block, though. There was a discussion on that a while back, I don't remember what the consensus was.

I'm mostly just paraphrasing what I remember reading during my time in this thread. Please don't take my words as fact.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> For just GPUs, to a degree, but not really enough to have a large impact. I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to run a GPU block parallel to a CPU block, though. There was a discussion on that a while back, I don't remember what the consensus was.
> 
> I'm mostly just paraphrasing what I remember reading during my time in this thread. Please don't take my words as fact.


Works just fine. It is mostly a question of aesthetics. Parallel will improve overall flow but inside the block flow will be slower compared to serial.




you can read more here:

http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_Papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf


----------



## dmfree88

Just trying to understand this but in a water loop the reason why the order doesn't matter is because the water heats up as a whole, right? It is not exactly hot water going into radiator with cold water coming out but instead warm water kept warm by the radiator? Or warm-hot as it continues to rise in temps? Which is why it is not actually heating up the CPU additionally when you put the water going from the GPU to the CPU? or vise versa?

I was thinking when I get a loop to put Radiator>Reservoir>Pump>Components so that the pump would get colder water and in hopes extend the life but as I started to think about it is the above explanation the reason why it doesn't matter? Because the water is heated as a whole, not immediately upon contact?


----------



## Chopper1591

Morning

Yesterday i realized I am going to buy new tubing and compression fittings.
Then I Thought... hmm rigid ain't that more expensive.

Can someone (or a few/lot people) give me some insight? I lean towards using bends vs angled fittings.

I have no clue on the fitting types for acrylic.

Is it possible to go rigid and make it look good and not break the bank?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Morning
> 
> Yesterday i realized I am going to buy new tubing and compression fittings.
> Then I Thought... hmm rigid ain't that more expensive.
> 
> Can someone (or a few/lot people) give me some insight? I lean towards using bends vs angled fittings.
> 
> I have no clue on the fitting types for acrylic.
> 
> Is it possible to go rigid and make it look good and not break the bank?


Using fittings for your bends increases the cost quite a bit. But it all comes down to personal preference imo








Both bends and angle fittings look good.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Just trying to understand this but in a water loop the reason why the order doesn't matter is because the water heats up as a whole, right? It is not exactly hot water going into radiator with cold water coming out but instead warm water kept warm by the radiator? Or warm-hot as it continues to rise in temps? Which is why it is not actually heating up the CPU additionally when you put the water going from the GPU to the CPU? or vise versa?
> 
> I was thinking when I get a loop to put Radiator>Reservoir>Pump>Components so that the pump would get colder water and in hopes extend the life but as I started to think about it is the above explanation the reason why it doesn't matter? Because the water is heated as a whole, not immediately upon contact?


The difference is temps is very small between hot/cold,you are trying to maintain the equilibrium. Loop order doesn't matter overall,you can gain very small improvements however that have incremental advantages,if you are willing to compromise on looks. Overall,its not worth it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Morning
> 
> Yesterday i realized I am going to buy new tubing and compression fittings.
> Then I Thought... hmm rigid ain't that more expensive.
> 
> Can someone (or a few/lot people) give me some insight? I lean towards using bends vs angled fittings.
> 
> I have no clue on the fitting types for acrylic.
> 
> Is it possible to go rigid and make it look good and not break the bank?


Easily,with patience. Hard tube work is all about patience,with it your loop will look amazing,without it...well,the spirit of Slinky will enter your pc and make it look half-arsed.
Take you time,practice and don't feel obliged to go with simple 90's with tube terminals,throw 90 and 45 fittings in there to get you going in the right direction.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Using fittings for your bends increases the cost quite a bit. But it all comes down to personal preference imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both bends and angle fittings look good.


Yeah makes sense. That's why I thought about using all bends and no angle fittings.
Sure, only straight tubes with angle fittings should be easier... but bending is doable, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Easily,with patience. Hard tube work is all about patience,with it your loop will look amazing,without it...well,the spirit of Slinky will enter your pc and make it look half-arsed.
> Take you time,practice and don't feel obliged to go with simple 90's with tube terminals,throw 90 and 45 fittings in there to get you going in the right direction.


Wouldn't straight tubing out of everything look better than lets say 30 or 45 degree entry/exits?

Basically I can just buy these for every block, rad and the pump and just bend my way through?
http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/black-sparkle/bitspower-g1-4-enhance-multi-link-for-od-12mm-black-sparkle-bp-bseml.html

If I were to go this order/route. What would you do?


The radiator and pump may be a bit more to the rear of the case... will have to see how everything fits when I actually receive the Primo.
And the ports on the gpu will be switched (from cpu to top right, lower left to bottom rad).

*Edit:*
Is there a difference when comparing 12 vs 16mm rigid tubing? Other than the looks, and obviously the price of the fittings.

*Edit 2:







*
People don't seem to be active here... but anyway.

Made a summary of an order I want to place, did I forgot anything? In regards to rigid:

p.s. I have an heatgun... who doesn't anyway.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yeah makes sense. That's why I thought about using all bends and no angle fittings.
> Sure, only straight tubes with angle fittings should be easier... but bending is doable, right?
> Wouldn't straight tubing out of everything look better than lets say 30 or 45 degree entry/exits?
> 
> Basically I can just buy these for every block, rad and the pump and just bend my way through?
> http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/black-sparkle/bitspower-g1-4-enhance-multi-link-for-od-12mm-black-sparkle-bp-bseml.html
> 
> If I were to go this order/route. What would you do?
> 
> The radiator and pump may be a bit more to the rear of the case... will have to see how everything fits when I actually receive the Primo.
> And the ports on the gpu will be switched (from cpu to top right, lower left to bottom rad).
> 
> *Edit:*
> Is there a difference when comparing 12 vs 16mm rigid tubing? Other than the looks, and obviously the price of the fittings.
> 
> *Edit 2:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> People don't seem to be active here... but anyway.
> 
> Made a summary of an order I want to place, did I forgot anything? In regards to rigid:
> 
> p.s. I have an heatgun... who doesn't anyway.


nothing wrong with doing all bends, it's a bit more work but that's ok. Using all fittings is a huge expense for most systems. You may want a couple 90°s in case you run into any tough spots though. I think I've always had at least one 90 tucked in somewhere i couldn't bend my way too.

I'll have a look at that loop order when I'm not mobile

edit 1: 12mm and 16mm will perform almost identically, within margin of error. I went with 14mm since i felt that 12 was too small and 16 to big.

Edit 2: not at 3:30am







looks good but you may want to order more tubing than that. I think i ordered 8m the first time and only used 4m but it's nice to have plenty extra because you will scrap some. Also do you have a tubing cutter? Ive always used a rolling type tube cutter for petg but acrylic does a bit better with a hacksaw i believe. As far as a reamer goes, i found a step bit reams the inside cleaner than those red deals. The red things kinda bounced all over the place


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> nothing wrong with doing all bends, it's a bit more work but that's ok. Using all fittings is a huge expense for most systems. You may want a couple 90°s in case you run into any tough spots though. I think I've always had at least one 90 tucked in somewhere i couldn't bend my way too.
> 
> I'll have a look at that loop order when I'm not mobile
> 
> edit 1: 12mm and 16mm will perform almost identically, within margin of error. I went with 14mm since i felt that 12 was too small and 16 to big.
> 
> Edit 2: not at 3:30am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks good but you may want to order more tubing than that. I think i ordered 8m the first time and only used 4m but it's nice to have plenty extra because you will scrap some. Also do you have a tubing cutter? Ive always used a rolling type tube cutter for petg but acrylic does a bit better with a hacksaw i believe. As far as a reamer goes, i found a step bit reams the inside cleaner than those red deals. The red things kinda bounced all over the place


Haha, fair enough.
It's like 5.30pm here atm.

I think my loop order can do without 90's... but who knows. If you can get back at me about my loop, great .









Yeah, it's hard to imagine the tube size by looking at pictures... though I can say for sure that 16 look huge.








I have 1/2 3/4 soft currently and I prefer smaller.

Will probably need some more tubes, agreed. Specially since it will be my first go at rigid. I "think" my route will be around 1,5-2 meters but will see when I get the case. Expect it to be delivered upcoming week.

I have a hacksaw. Do you think a cable knife works (the ones you use to cut the isolation of ground cables with). Like this:


About the reamer.. is it really needed to ream the inside of the tube to? Else I could just use a file for the outside.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Haha, fair enough.
> It's like 5.30pm here atm.
> 
> I think my loop order can do without 90's... but who knows. If you can get back at me about my loop, great .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's hard to imagine the tube size by looking at pictures... though I can say for sure that 16 look huge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 1/2 3/4 soft currently and I prefer smaller.
> 
> Will probably need some more tubes, agreed. Specially since it will be my first go at rigid. I "think" my route will be around 1,5-2 meters but will see when I get the case. Expect it to be delivered upcoming week.
> 
> I have a hacksaw. Do you think a cable knife works (the ones you use to cut the isolation of ground cables with). Like this:
> 
> About the reamer.. is it really needed to ream the inside of the tube to? Else I could just use a file for the outside.


yeah you should be able to get by without 90°s in such a large case. I am thinking something like this, I really like the res on the right of the board to balance things out a bit


I really like my 14mm, only thing is I wish there was more fitting availability. But I found these in black chrome and they're great IMO without being too expensive.

I dont't think I'd try to use a cable knife since it might be tough to get a good straight cut, for the PETG you ordered I'd use a cutter like this but you should be able to get one cheaper if you have a local hardware store. A hacksaw will work too but it's a harder process. And you'll definitely want to get some reaming done on the inside of the tube depending on how you cut it. The tube cutter like I linked will push in a bit of tube so you need to open it back up to the original ID of the tube. Hacksaws dont really press in on it, but there is lots of burrs/edges that should be taken out. Sandpaper will also work for this but its a bit more work.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> yeah you should be able to get by without 90°s in such a large case. I am thinking something like this, I really like the res on the right of the board to balance things out a bit
> 
> 
> I really like my 14mm, only thing is I wish there was more fitting availability. But I found these in black chrome and they're great IMO without being too expensive.
> 
> I dont't think I'd try to use a cable knife since it might be tough to get a good straight cut, for the PETG you ordered I'd use a cutter like this but you should be able to get one cheaper if you have a local hardware store. A hacksaw will work too but it's a harder process. And you'll definitely want to get some reaming done on the inside of the tube depending on how you cut it. The tube cutter like I linked will push in a bit of tube so you need to open it back up to the original ID of the tube. Hacksaws dont really press in on it, but there is lots of burrs/edges that should be taken out. Sandpaper will also work for this but its a bit more work.


That's my idea. I thought lets buy a bigger case for once. Stuff should fit. Haha

I wanted to place the pump/res combo next to the gpu first... but it really seems that it won't fit (r9 290's are large







).
And I really don't want to buy a separate reservoir and pump top... it's already hurting my budget a bit as it is.
So that's why I though: place the radiator more to the front and place the pump next to it at the rear.

14mm is not an option where I buy from. It's 12 or 16. And a very little assortiment of 13mm.

Will try to find the cutter, or at least something similar. I guess a hacksaw will be a pain. I can't really tighten the tubing between something to make the cut (will scratch badly).

Understand about the internal reaming. It's just that that red thing is kinda expensive for a piece of plastic with a cheap knife in it.

One thing keeps my head spinning though.
How on earth do I place a tube between two fittings that are above each other?
I want to make a return line from the top radiator straight down (or with a slight bend in it) to the top port of the reservoir....
Soft tubing can be bend so you can actually place it on the fitting. I have no clue how that works with rigid acrylic.

Do *note*:
I haven't bought anything besides the case yet. Still brainstorming.


----------



## DarthBaggins

If you have a Harbor Freight near you, they carry the red reamers for $1.99ish last I saw
Now thinking that I might buy some up and resell lol


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That's my idea. I thought lets buy a bigger case for once. Stuff should fit. Haha
> 
> I wanted to place the pump/res combo next to the gpu first... but it really seems that it won't fit (r9 290's are large
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> And I really don't want to buy a separate reservoir and pump top... it's already hurting my budget a bit as it is.
> So that's why I though: place the radiator more to the front and place the pump next to it at the rear.
> 
> 14mm is not an option where I buy from. It's 12 or 16. And a very little assortiment of 13mm.
> 
> Will try to find the cutter, or at least something similar. I guess a hacksaw will be a pain. I can't really tighten the tubing between something to make the cut (will scratch badly).
> 
> Understand about the internal reaming. It's just that that red thing is kinda expensive for a piece of plastic with a cheap knife in it.
> 
> One thing keeps my head spinning though.
> How on earth do I place a tube between two fittings that are above each other?
> I want to make a return line from the top radiator straight down (or with a slight bend in it) to the top port of the reservoir....
> Soft tubing can be bend so you can actually place it on the fitting. I have no clue how that works with rigid acrylic.
> 
> Do *note*:
> I haven't bought anything besides the case yet. Still brainstorming.


I just don't like the red reamers much at all, they just kinda "chattered" when I used them, making a bunch of small cuts instead of a nice clean ream. I'd rather use a nice sharp razor blade and then finish it off with sandpaper.
I see the issue with the res placement on the right now. It would pretty much be completely hidden, you could try something like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Or putting it on the left of the bottom radiator could totally work too, it might be easiest to keep the pump high enough to stay above the rad fittings and it might be a spot that you run into having to get a 90° or two.

The best way I've found to fit tight tubing runs together is to remove one of the components which is ALMOST always possible. You'd basically just install the pump/res as you install that pipe section if that makes any sense.

Do note: that is a good idea, I wish I had done that more!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The difference is temps is very small between hot/cold,you are trying to maintain the equilibrium. Loop order doesn't matter overall,you can gain very small improvements however that have incremental advantages,if you are willing to compromise on looks. Overall,its not worth it.
> Easily,with patience. Hard tube work is all about patience,with it your loop will look amazing,without it...well,t*he spirit of Slinky* will enter your pc and make it look half-arsed.
> Take you time,practice and don't feel obliged to go with simple 90's with tube terminals,throw 90 and 45 fittings in there to get you going in the right direction.


Just don't say that word 3 times in row...Otherwise he might show up trying to convince the heretics (us) that PWM is volt regulated.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I just don't like the red reamers much at all, they just kinda "chattered" when I used them, making a bunch of small cuts instead of a nice clean ream. I'd rather use a nice sharp razor blade and then finish it off with sandpaper.
> I see the issue with the res placement on the right now. It would pretty much be completely hidden, you could try something like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or putting it on the left of the bottom radiator could totally work too, it might be easiest to keep the pump high enough to stay above the rad fittings and it might be a spot that you run into having to get a 90° or two.
> 
> The best way I've found to fit tight tubing runs together is to remove one of the components which is ALMOST always possible. You'd basically just install the pump/res as you install that pipe section if that makes any sense.
> 
> Do note: that is a good idea, I wish I had done that more!


How would you mount the Pump/res horizontally?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> How would you mount the Pump/res horizontally?


well you could mount it like this unless you are planning on using an 80mm thick rad or something in the bottom


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






It'd take a few holes and a bit of ol' fashioned doing but its an idea


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> well you could mount it like this unless you are planning on using an 80mm thick rad or something in the bottom
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'd take a few holes and a bit of ol' fashioned doing but its an idea


Hmm... didn't think about that.
I've got a EK CE 420 (45 thick) laying ready for the build, re-paint and all.

Also got two of these clamps:


Not so sure on the vibrations of the pump though when mounted on the psu cover.


----------



## ruffhi

I got my Mercury S5 on Friday. Busy, busy weekend with plumbing and wiring in the pedestal, securing my 2 x pump contraption and overcoming a severe space issue under the mid-chassis section (details in my build log). Next up is working out the location of the reservoir.










Woot ... 99'000 post in this thread!


----------



## wizardbro

Anyone very familiar with bitspower hard tube fittings? Here's the chart for reference = http://www.bitspower.com.tw/images/Black%20Sparkle%20Fitting%20Classification-5000x3750.jpg ( just look at the hard tube section)
I want to know if I've got this right. The BP-BSE90RML (90 rotary), BP-BSE90DML (90 dual), BP-BSE45RML (45 rotary) and BP-BSE30RML (30 rotary) and are all compression and 12mm OD fittings right? Not push in? Also, if true, they don't sell angled fittings for different ODs?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Anyone very familiar with bitspower hard tube fittings? Here's the chart for reference = http://www.bitspower.com.tw/images/Black%20Sparkle%20Fitting%20Classification-5000x3750.jpg ( just look at the hard tube section)
> I want to know if I've got this right. The BP-BSE90RML (90 rotary), BP-BSE90DML (90 dual), BP-BSE45RML (45 rotary) and BP-BSE30RML (30 rotary) and are all compression and 12mm OD fittings right? Not push in? Also, if true, they don't sell angled fittings for different ODs?


Bitspower have fittings for 12 mm tube as well as 16 mm OD. Everything you can find for 12 mm you can also find for 16 mm. And yes, all those you gave the codes are 12 mm OD fittings. If you want push in you need to grab the corresponding adapter (not the fitting) and get the c47.

like this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-matte-black-rotary-90-degree-ig-1-4-adapter.html

with this:
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=542


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Bitspower have fittings for 12 mm tube as well as 16 mm OD. Everything you can find for 12 mm you can also find for 16 mm. And yes, all those you gave the codes are 12 mm OD fittings. If you want push in you need to grab the corresponding adapter (not the fitting) and get the c47.
> 
> like this:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-matte-black-rotary-90-degree-ig-1-4-adapter.html
> 
> with this:
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_27_28&products_id=542


I couldn't find the same angled compression hard tube fittings that I linked in 16mm versions on their site or the chart, which is why I was confused. Also because the ones I linked don't clearly mention that they're 12mm or compression, but you can make that out because they say enhanced multi link I guess.
I'm only using 12mm anyway and only need compression ones, so I'm good. Got it now, thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> I couldn't find the same angled compression hard tube fittings that I linked in 16mm versions on their site or the chart, which is why I was confused. Also because the ones I linked don't clearly mention that they're 12mm or compression, but you can make that out because they say enhanced multi link I guess.
> I'm only using 12mm anyway and only need compression ones, so I'm good. Got it now, thanks.


frozencpu is still live and a good website to quick check specs on watercooling stuff. It was a major set back when they self imploded a while ago. I am not suggesting you buy from them but to check info is great. Still one of the best organized sites and much faster and easier to navigate that PPC:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c703/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Rigid_Acrylic_-_Fittings.html


----------



## derickwm

COPPER IS LIFE



















Build Log


----------



## snef




----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> frozencpu is still live and a good website to quick check specs on watercooling stuff. It was a major set back when they self imploded a while ago. I am not suggesting you buy from them but to check info is great. Still one of the best organized sites and much faster and easier to navigate that PPC:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c703/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Rigid_Acrylic_-_Fittings.html


Thanks, that's much easier to browse than bitspower's site. I'm buying directly off them and they're offering some sort of discount.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> COPPER IS LIFE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


That copper looks amazing. I see you were in Dubai in that build log. Hit me up the next time you're here. I'll take you for a ride in some nice cars


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> COPPER IS LIFE
> 
> Build Log
> 
> 
> 
> That copper looks amazing. I see you were in Dubai in that build log. Hit me up the next time you're here. I'll take you for a ride in some nice cars
Click to expand...

You've got yourself a deal. I toured around in a Ferrari California T last time  one of the best trips of my life.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> COPPER IS LIFE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


Copper is shiny.


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You've got yourself a deal. I toured around in a Ferrari California T last time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one of the best trips of my life.


We can do one better







.
You visited at the right time though. It's Summer and 43c out now, hence the need for EK gear around here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> COPPER IS LIFE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Build Log


Sorry peeps I am NOT spoilering this b e a UTIFUL copper.









And I would be Remiss if I didn't at least throw a







tp snef's fine violet werk.










~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Cleaned out my s8 took a few pics... May be time to upgrade the 780tis here soon!


----------



## Nichismo

Without pointing any fingers, I must say it never ceases to astound me how often I come across certain pictures and wonder to myself, where exactly he or she got their "taste" from.... then proceeding me to wonder more if those same patterns follow them throughout their other stuff, like the inside of there home, or car, etc. Pictures are worth alot of thought however and perhaps im ignorant to the real idea behind alot of observations.... regardless, to each their own.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> COPPER IS LIFE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Build Log




yes, it really did take that many gifs!

so does this mean copper is gonna be sold to public ?????


----------



## Newtocooling

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*







Wow Snef that build is beautiful. I really love the way the trained the GPU cable run, really great work!!!


----------



## Artah

Quick question for you vets out there that's done it. What is a good drill/hole puncher is good to use for a fillport/pass through for a bitspower? This is what I'm trying to use. Thanks in advance.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-deluxe-white.html


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quick question for you vets out there that's done it. What is a good drill/hole puncher is good to use for a fillport/pass through for a bitspower? This is what I'm trying to use. Thanks in advance.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-deluxe-white.html


Step drill bits are the commonly used.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Step drill bits are the commonly used.


thanks, any links to a good quality one or model number?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> thanks, any links to a good quality one or model number?


I used something Like this. Pretty much any of them would work. Mine was made out of titanium. Drilled like butter.

https://www.amazon.com/PENSON-CO-Titanium-Drill-Metric/dp/B00UJAQ4KG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467045900&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=inwin+metric+step+drill+bit

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> COPPER IS LIFE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes, it really did take that many gifs!
> 
> so does this mean copper is gonna be sold to public ?????
Click to expand...

No, it means that is what his build is using.









~Ceadder


----------



## Chopper1591

Good evening (what time is it there again?







)

Any idea's on how to route my tubing? Going rigid for this one (first time trying it).

Here is the template which I use to plan tubing runs.
Much appreciate the help if some of you would take the time.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is an option for example. Idea's?


Not sure which orientation I want the radiators (fittings on the left or right. Probably left as it would be a waste to buy nice bitspower fittings and not be able to see them.


----------



## Pandemie

MO-RA3 420Pro easy tuning
https://youtu.be/s9-EzxVssRc
in idle fans are turned off
in games fans turn on


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good evening (what time is it there again?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Any idea's on how to route my tubing? Going rigid for this one (first time trying it).
> 
> Here is the template which I use to plan tubing runs.
> Much appreciate the help if some of you would take the time.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an option for example. Idea's?
> 
> 
> Not sure which orientation I want the radiators (fittings on the left or right. Probably left as it would be a waste to buy nice bitspower fittings and not be able to see them.


Looks reasonable Chop.

But I would 180* the top Radiator and shorten the Res tube. Sure it will lengthen the CPU Outlet tube, but it will look cleaner that way and you can hide the Rad fittings out of the way.









~Ceadder


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pandemie*
> 
> MO-RA3 420Pro easy tuning
> https://youtu.be/s9-EzxVssRc
> in idle fans are turned off
> in games fans turn on


i dont understand the point. i could understand if it was automatic but not 'manually' turning your pump and fans on and off...


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> thanks, any links to a good quality one or model number?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I used something Like this. Pretty much any of them would work. Mine was made out of titanium. Drilled like butter.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/PENSON-CO-Titanium-Drill-Metric/dp/B00UJAQ4KG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467045900&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=inwin+metric+step+drill+bit
> 
> TCO


This could be usefull to me too now since I will be using over 20 pass-through fittings in my new build.

I have been looking at Step drill bit's. But I wonder, the pieces I am going to drill are something between 10-13mm thick. Do the step drill still works? I mean, at specific level doesn't the drill bit make the hole largen than you want? I need exactly 20mm holes.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> This could be usefull to me too now since I will be using over 20 pass-through fittings in my new build.
> 
> I have been looking at Step drill bit's. But I wonder, the pieces I am going to drill are something between 10-13mm thick. Do the step drill still works? I mean, at specific level doesn't the drill bit make the hole largen than you want? I need exactly 20mm holes.


if it's too deep/thick just finish it off by drilling from the other side.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> if it's too deep/thick just finish it off by drilling from the other side.


Aaaaaa I see, clever






























Sometimes it's easier than you can imagine, my bad hahaha


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> if it's too deep/thick just finish it off by drilling from the other side.


Anyway, had a look at Ebay and instantly found a 20mm







Great!

They are sold as "titaniuam coated" - I guess the quality isn't the best when it comes from HongKong, but I will only drill plastic for now, and it may work for metal too.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Aaaaaa I see, clever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes it's easier than you can imagine, my bad hahaha


don't worry we all get those moments!


----------



## VSG

Alphacool has a new expandable CPU AIO cooler series out now, called Eisbaer. This is the Eisbaer 240:


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pandemie*
> 
> MO-RA3 420Pro easy tuning
> https://youtu.be/s9-EzxVssRc
> in idle fans are turned off
> in games fans turn on


Is that the switch to the pump? Or just the LED?


----------



## paskowitz

IMO, with the right runs, soft tubing can look aesthetically amicable. Once the tubes are braided and the H240X is not brown, I think the final look will be pretty good. I may need to redo some vinyl application.


*Please excuse my garbage smartphone camera.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> IMO, with the right runs, soft tubing can look be aesthetically amicable. Once the tubes are braided and the H240X is not brown, I think the final look will be pretty good. I may need to redo some vinyl application.
> 
> 
> *Please excuse my garbage smartphone camera.


Agreed!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> IMO, with the right runs, soft tubing can look be aesthetically amicable. Once the tubes are braided and the H240X is not brown, I think the final look will be pretty good. I may need to redo some vinyl application.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Please excuse my garbage smartphone camera.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Agreed with the agreed, and the "aesthetically amicable", lol.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks reasonable Chop.
> 
> But I would 180* the top Radiator and shorten the Res tube. Sure it will lengthen the CPU Outlet tube, but it will look cleaner that way and you can hide the Rad fittings out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hmm. I am not really chasing "reasonable".









I can always stick to the other idea: Pump/res next to the bottom rad in the rear.

Well I don't have the longer tube yet so ditching that idea will even save me some €. Just thought longer would look better.

I see switching around the top rad. Leaving just the cpu to rad run in view.

Not so sure on the lower portion.
turning around the rad there won't help.

What do you guys think looks better? Bending high or low? I mean: closer to the gpu or closer to the bottom rad.


----------



## bundymania

Teaser Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JT-pHIBeCg&t=0s

....english written review is already released at another page which starts with L and ends with Reviews


----------



## Pandemie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Is that the switch to the pump? Or just the LED?


The pump is activated when the computer is turned on.
I made a separate control power fans and lights.

P.S. Google Translate


----------



## Ceadderman

Ick OC brought back the ribbed tubing??? :x

Wthades were they thinking? I thought we'd gotten well clear of that doodoo.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ick OC brought back the ribbed tubing??? :x
> 
> Wthades were they thinking? I thought we'd gotten well clear of that doodoo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's 11/8 mm tubing so it was either coils or kinks galore. Surprisingly, the European market seems to be more than ok with this.


----------



## Ceadderman

Really 11mm tubing? That extra mm must cost a bloody kings ramsom in manufacturing costs.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's 11/8 mm tubing so it was either coils or kinks galore. *Surprisingly, the European market seems to be more than ok with this.*


Where did you get that idea?

Nooooope.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Where did you get that idea?
> 
> Nooooope.


Thought about making a Brexit joke here but not worth the effort









Germans on PCGH, Hardwaremax and HardwareLuxx forums anyway. Or at least that's what Google Translate told me.


----------



## ruffhi

Are you saying that having coils on flex tubing looks bad?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thought about making a Brexit joke here but not worth the effort
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Germans on PCGH, Hardwaremax and HardwareLuxx forums anyway. Or at least that's what Google Translate told me.


The whole 'Brexit' was a joke,now our economy has gone to crap and the racists are abusing people in the streets.
Pick what humour you can from that.

Ah,The Germans....yeah....they like a bit of that but then...they _are_ German.....


----------



## Chopper1591

Santa was early this year.
Came back from work and this was standing in the hallway.




This also came in the mail... bought it from someone on a dutch tech-site. €10 shipped. Fair enough, still new in package.


Now to wait for time to actually do some work with it.
Will inspect it upcoming weekend.

p.s. Delivery was pretty quick if you ask me (ordered Saturday morning) already here today. From UK to Netherlands. Box is almost completely in tact.


----------



## wizardbro

Any fittings/geometry experts reckon 45/30 degree fittings will work on point 1 to gpu or point 2 to gpu with a straight acrylic tube?

Or cpu outlet to gpu for that matter.

The gpu will have this block


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Any fittings/geometry experts reckon 45/30 degree fittings will work on point 1 to gpu or point 2 to gpu with a straight acrylic tube?
> 
> Or cpu outlet to gpu for that matter.
> 
> The gpu will have this block


from the cpu to the gpu in the first slot or from the other block (1) to GPU in the first slot you will most likely need a 60 degrees at one end and a 45 on the other end to have a straight run between the blocks. From 2 most likely 2x 45 degrees. here one example with 45 degrees and GPU on the second slot:




and here with the GPU in the first slot and one 45 and one 60 degrees adapter:


----------



## VSG

New PPCs discount codes for those interested:
Quote:


> Fourth of July is almost here... Celebrate the birthday of America with your friends, family and loved ones and wish them a Happy Fourth of July by barbecuing, watching fireworks, and sharing our new product releases and discount coupons. From all of us here at Performance-PCs.com we hope you have a safe and enjoyable Independence Day Holiday.
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Any order, get 10% off!: "4JULY16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from June 28th through July 5th 2016. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New PPCs discount codes for those interested:


Hurry up PPC's, get those EK 1080 Strix blocks in!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Are you saying that having coils on flex tubing looks bad?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not sure who said it, but I would have to agree with them.

TCO


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> from the cpu to the gpu in the first slot or from the other block (1) to GPU in the first slot you will most likely need a 60 degrees at one end and a 45 on the other end to have a straight run between the blocks. From 2 most likely 2x 45 degrees. here one example with 45 degrees and GPU on the second slot:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here with the GPU in the first slot and one 45 and one 60 degrees adapter:


Thanks mate, that helps a lot.


----------



## Chopper1591

Food for thought here.

Has anyone here done a parallel run between a cpu and a single gpu? I am curious as to how much worse (if any) it cools. I know about the restriction difference thing but aren't today's cpu blocks much lower restriction?

Talking ek supremacy evo and ek fullcover r9-290(x).


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Food for thought here.
> 
> Has anyone here done a parallel run between a cpu and a single gpu? I am curious as to how much worse (if any) it cools. I know about the restriction difference thing but aren't today's cpu blocks much lower restriction?
> 
> Talking ek supremacy evo and ek fullcover r9-290(x).


Plenty of people have done it... As I said just a couple of days before is mainly a question of aestethics. You will not see much difference in cooling. I just posted some pics of 3 examples of loops in parallel with a single cpu-gpu (two of them working - "Grey Matter" and "Old Copper" - one been build right now) and works just fine.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/98980#post_25291632


----------



## B NEGATIVE

My D Frame 2 is on its way!!!

Very excited!


----------



## Teflonpate

My build is almost done!









EDIT: I gotta fill res BTW. Right like now.


----------



## Sem

would you guys use a generic acid free radiator cleaner like this to flush you rads

http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/manufacturers/wynns/wynns_radiator_flush_cleaner_325ml_56064_P28205.html?gclid=CNPwvpedzc0CFVYo0wodTbcLeg

i am tearing my loop down at the weekend and it will be a good opportunity to give them a clean


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> would you guys use a generic acid free radiator cleaner like this to flush you rads
> 
> http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/manufacturers/wynns/wynns_radiator_flush_cleaner_325ml_56064_P28205.html?gclid=CNPwvpedzc0CFVYo0wodTbcLeg
> 
> i am tearing my loop down at the weekend and it will be a good opportunity to give them a clean


I'd like to know this too, if someone could quote me as well as this guy when you answer


----------



## Sem

i dont see it being an issue as the underlying tech and materials are the same

and this one is acid free so the risk of burning a hole through it is minimal

but would be nice to hear some other opinions tho


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Food for thought here.
> 
> Has anyone here done a parallel run between a cpu and a single gpu? I am curious as to how much worse (if any) it cools. I know about the restriction difference thing but aren't today's cpu blocks much lower restriction?
> 
> Talking ek supremacy evo and ek fullcover r9-290(x).


I did. Temps were not to shabby







Would build another rig in the same configuration.



I gave the computer Overclocked at 4.2ghz with 1.2CoreV (Max temp on cores for stress test was 55C and the GPU I never tested fully, Idle and stressed in Realbench was 35C? )

TCO


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I did. Temps were not to shabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would build another rig in the same configuration.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I've got to be honest, TCO, I don't usually like seeing the EK CSQ pattern exposed in builds, but it looks great all polished up. Job well done, sir!


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Food for thought here.
> 
> Has anyone here done a parallel run between a cpu and a single gpu? I am curious as to how much worse (if any) it cools. I know about the restriction difference thing but aren't today's cpu blocks much lower restriction?
> 
> Talking ek supremacy evo and ek fullcover r9-290(x).


I just switched from running my cpu in series to parallel with 2 980tis. Using EK FC blocks on the gpus and a supremacy evo on the cpu. Temps are about 2-3C higher at load (IBT) on the cpu with the pumps at idle in parallel. With the pumps running at optimal speed temps are about the same as they were previously in series. So basically no difference, entirely an aesthetic choice as stated by others.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also you guys forgot about Bneg having done parallel from CPU to GPU etc.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sometimes I wish I kept that build....

It lives a happy life at EK headquarters now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I've got to be honest, TCO, I don't usually like seeing the EK CSQ pattern exposed in builds, but it looks great all polished up. Job well done, sir!


Thank you. It takes some elbow grease and sweat to get it clear, I can assure you of that









TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sometimes I wish I kept that build....
> 
> It lives a happy life at EK headquarters now.


Which build is that B Neg?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Which build is that B Neg?


Idoru

Heretic

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Idoru
> 
> TCO


No it's Heretek (sp?), we try not to bring back the bad memories of Idoru (as beautiful as the build was it just carried it's own bad juju)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> No it's Heretek (sp?), we try not to bring back the bad memories of Idoru (as beautiful as the build was it just carried it's own bad juju)












Wow, Nice Call. Edited Previous Post.









TCO


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I did. Temps were not to shabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would build another rig in the same configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> I gave the computer Overclocked at 4.2ghz with 1.2CoreV (Max temp on cores for stress test was 55C and the GPU I never tested fully, Idle and stressed in Realbench was 35C? )
> 
> TCO


Ok Thanks.
Maybe I can make cleaner routing that way. Have to do some drawings.

What do you think will look better in the primo? It is a big case so a more expanded route might even look better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I've got to be honest, TCO, I don't usually like seeing the EK CSQ pattern exposed in builds, but it looks great all polished up. Job well done, sir!


Agree.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> I just switched from running my cpu in series to parallel with 2 980tis. Using EK FC blocks on the gpus and a supremacy evo on the cpu. Temps are about 2-3C higher at load (IBT) on the cpu with the pumps at idle in parallel. With the pumps running at optimal speed temps are about the same as they were previously in series. So basically no difference, entirely an aesthetic choice as stated by others.


Alright. I consider 2-3c difference neglectible (how was it spelled again?







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Also you guys forgot about Bneg having done parallel from CPU to GPU etc.


Bneg is actually one of the reasons I thought about doing parallel.

I love his builds (your welkome B







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thank you. It takes some elbow grease and sweat to get it clear, I can assure you of that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Really that easy? Any recommended grease?

I might just do that to my supremacy evo

Edit:

Openend the primo box. Found this dent on the front panel.



And a psu feet is missing










What should I do?
Ask phanteks support?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I did. Temps were not to shabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would build another rig in the same configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> I gave the computer Overclocked at 4.2ghz with 1.2CoreV (Max temp on cores for stress test was 55C and the GPU I never tested fully, Idle and stressed in Realbench was 35C? )
> 
> TCO







































































































Edit** TCO stands for The cool one, right??


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ok Thanks.
> Maybe I can make cleaner routing that way. Have to do some drawings.
> 
> Really that easy? Any recommended grease?
> 
> I might just do that to my supremacy evo


The Grease question was clever, I like that



For the polish, you will need a lot of sandpaper and patience, with a side of Plasitx or polish of Choice.

Lowfats Polish Guide


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit** TCO stands for The cool one, right??




TCO


----------



## Steamroller83

Its poor for now. But it will get better!


----------



## electro2u

I love the little tiny fan up at the top so much. It's like a European mini-hat.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steamroller83*
> 
> Its poor for now. But it will get better!


Ehm... hmm?
No gpu there? With such a big board.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New PPCs discount codes for those interested:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Fourth of July is almost here... Celebrate the birthday of America with your friends, family and loved ones and wish them a Happy Fourth of July by barbecuing, watching fireworks, and sharing our new product releases and discount coupons. From all of us here at Performance-PCs.com we hope you have a safe and enjoyable Independence Day Holiday.
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> *Any order*, get 10% off!: "4JULY16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from June 28th through July 5th 2016. One coupon per order please.)
Click to expand...

Pretty sure any order means *NO MINIMUM*. 









~Ceadder


----------



## Steamroller83

I had to ship my GPU away so that i can study for my last exam.








I started playing CSGO again, but mainly I use the computer to render my video reviews... and other work related stuff.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure any order means *NO MINIMUM*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I just tried it with a $3 order and it gave me 30c off. That said, I started with a $250 order and removed the expensive parts. I also didn't push the order through to completion.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New PPCs discount codes for those interested:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Fourth of July is almost here... Celebrate the birthday of America with your friends, family and loved ones and wish them a Happy Fourth of July by barbecuing, watching fireworks, and sharing our new product releases and discount coupons. From all of us here at Performance-PCs.com we hope you have a safe and enjoyable Independence Day Holiday.
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> *Any order*, get 10% off!: "4JULY16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items*. Minimum $50 order*. Coupon is good from June 28th through July 5th 2016. One coupon per order please.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Pretty sure any order means *NO MINIMUM*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

The fine print at the bottom has the $50 minimum statement:

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from June 28th through July 5th 2016. One coupon per order please.)

I can't think of a single promotion / sale in all the years I've been buying from them that there was not a $50 minimum declaration.

D.


----------



## Wolfsbora

I figured that one of my favorite clubs on OCN will be interested in tonight's Overclock.net Podcast: LIVE guest:



Check it out tonight at 9pm EST on Twitch.tv/overclocktv


----------



## samoth777

Hi guys,

Is the Black Ice Xtreme III series any good? Found someone selling a 360 version quite cheap. What is your experience with this radiator? Recommended? Thanks!


----------



## spyshagg

isn't there crossflow in parallel setups such as the ones above? there's one point of direct contact between in and out water flows (or two in the case of crossfire setups)


----------



## paskowitz

Got some (~tablespoon), distilled water mixed with sysprep on my mobo when taking off the VRM fittings. Air can, hair dryer and 24 hours enough? I read some spray alcohol on the board to pick up residue. Any credence to this? Anything else I should do?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Got some (~tablespoon), distilled water mixed with sysprep on my mobo when taking off the VRM fittings. Air can, hair dryer and 24 hours enough? I read some spray alcohol on the board to pick up residue. Any credence to this? Anything else I should do?


personally I think you'd be fine after all that. I wouldn't go about spraying alcohol on the board though. I had the same thing happened to me when a rotary coming off a GPU Bridge didn't thread properly because well bc it was a bad rotory and the threads were messed up and stupid me tried to use it anyway even though I know it wasn't threading properly. I had more of a split-second angled spray and I did basically the same thing you did minus is spraying alcohol on it and it worked fine.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Got some (~tablespoon), distilled water mixed with sysprep on my mobo when taking off the VRM fittings. Air can, hair dryer and 24 hours enough? I read some spray alcohol on the board to pick up residue. Any credence to this? Anything else I should do?


I mean, it's water first of all with an anti bacteria formula.... If it's really bothering you I would just get a couple squares of toilet paper with isoproply alcohol and wipe the area down... But I wouldn't "Spray" alcohol on the board.

TCO


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I mean, it's water first of all with an anti bacteria formula.... If it's really bothering you I would just get a couple squares of toilet paper with isoproply alcohol and wipe the area down... But I wouldn't "Spray" alcohol on the board.
> 
> TCO


I mostly dump my board in a bath of alcohol.









Reminds me of a thing i've read a while ago about someone who asked help when he spilled soda in his keyboard. Someone told he went under the shower with his board.









No but seriously. I think you and Shiftys are right.
But do note that the water (even plain distilled) will get conductive after a short period after getting in contact with the copper and all in the loop.

*p.s.*
Already had a reply from Phanteks after sending in the question.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I mean, it's water first of all with an anti bacteria formula.... If it's really bothering you I would just get a couple squares of toilet paper with isoproply alcohol and wipe the area down... But I wouldn't "Spray" alcohol on the board.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> I mostly dump my board in a bath of alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reminds me of a thing i've read a while ago about someone who asked help when he spilled soda in his keyboard. Someone told he went under the shower with his board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No but seriously. I think you and Shiftys are right.
> But do note that the water (even plain distilled) will get conductive after a short period after getting in contact with the copper and all in the loop.
> 
> *p.s.*
> Already had a reply from Phanteks after sending in the question.
Click to expand...

Rather good customer support from them, imo.










I've ordered from OCUK myself, they had a great deal on a 780 Ti at the time, worked out cheaper than buying one here, amazingly.
Still have the OCUK mousepad they threw in for free, ate the Haribos though, lol.

Some time ago, I did see someone post how he put his mobo in the shower, to give it a thorough cleaning.
Obviously he dried it out completely afterwards, lol.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Rather good customer support from them, imo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've ordered from OCUK myself, they had a great deal on a 780 Ti at the time, worked out cheaper than buying one here, amazingly.
> Still have the OCUK mousepad they threw in for free, ate the Haribos though, lol.
> 
> Some time ago, I did see someone post how he put his mobo in the shower, to give it a thorough cleaning.
> Obviously he dried it out completely afterwards, lol.


If you have very soft water it could work haha. Wil probably give problems later on though


----------



## Wolfsbora

I'm interviewing Monsoon Cooling tonight LIVE, head over to this thread and let me know what kind of questions I should ask them: http://www.overclock.net/t/1604548/im-interviewing-monsoon-cooling-tonight-live-what-do-you-want-to-ask-them









Thanks, folks!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Monsoon makes the Chaingun fittings?

Not sure how I feel about those.

TCO


----------



## VSG

So looks like XSPC is bringing out a second line of GPU full cover waterblocks now to go along with their existing Razor blocks, and aptly named the Blade series. Currently in render form only:







Same performance, no acrylic block, fewer port options, less expensive. More pics here: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1047214312031950&id=186277998125590


----------



## prznar1

Dont care about acrylic top because i wont see it anyway. Neither anyone else who will see my pc live







If the price will be nice ill grab one for my future rx 480. Maybe they will do one for a custom board? Who knows.


----------



## Ithanul

I hope they do one for the custom RX480s.

Just heard Sapphire making one with 8pin and DVI port. Woooo! Hope more news on that AIB comes out since I want an AIB RX480 to tinker with and abuse the crap out of it.

Not a fan of clear acrylic blocks, but there always the rattle can fix.


----------



## VSG

Perhaps I should clarify- XSPC hasn't made acrylic tops in a while, their Razor blocks have an acrylic mid section for LEDs to light up but they have not been see through. For example:


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Monsoon makes the Chaingun fittings?
> 
> Not sure how I feel about those.
> 
> TCO


Those are the coolest fittings around! They also match the MMRS stuff perfectly.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I hope they do one for the custom RX480s.
> 
> Just heard Sapphire making one with 8pin and DVI port. Woooo! Hope more news on that AIB comes out since I want an AIB RX480 to tinker with and abuse the crap out of it.
> 
> Not a fan of clear acrylic blocks, but there always the rattle can fix.


I would love to see a non dvi version. That gigantic dongle needs to die! Anyway im still waiting to see how the things will go. GTX 1060, waterblocks for both etc. Where is my popcorn xD


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Those are the coolest fittings around! They also match the MMRS stuff perfectly.










As far as opinions go, you could be right as well as myself









TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as opinions go, you could be right as well as myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


So sayeth The (non)Chaingun One.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So looks like XSPC is bringing out a second line of GPU full cover waterblocks now to go along with their existing Razor blocks, and aptly named the Blade series. Currently in render form only:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same performance, no acrylic block, fewer port options, less expensive. More pics here: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1047214312031950&id=186277998125590


Wish I could get one of those for my 390x


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I would love to see a non dvi version. That gigantic dongle needs to die! Anyway im still waiting to see how the things will go. GTX 1060, waterblocks for both etc. Where is my popcorn xD


dvi is the only way to use a dual link dvi only monitor. these dual link dvi only monitors are the best 1440p monitors around.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> So sayeth The (non)Chaingun One.


That was a good one lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> dvi is the only way to use a dual link dvi only monitor. these dual link dvi only monitors are the best 1440p monitors around.


I would have to agree on that.

TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That was a good one lol
> I would have to agree on that.
> 
> TCO


Monsoon's Chainguns definitely have a certain look to them that does not appeal to everyone. Some days I like them, some days I don't. Which means with that kind of flip flopping, I doubt I would ever go for them.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> If you have very soft water it could work haha. Wil probably give problems later on though


Not true,I have put mobo's thru dishwashers before with no problems at al,ln2 clockers regularly dump boards into a washing bowl and scrub them with brushes.

Washing a PCB is fine as long as its dried properly. Spraying a board with alcohol is also fine,it displaces water that can hide under SM components.

The trick is drying it right out,this requires patience.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,I have put mobo's thru dishwashers before with no problems at al,ln2 clockers regularly dump boards into a washing bowl and scrub them with brushes.
> 
> Washing a PCB is fine as long as its dried properly. Spraying a board with alcohol is also fine,it displaces water that can hide under SM components.
> 
> The trick is drying it right out,this requires patience.


Agree partially. You know that tap water has al sorts of stuff in it that you don't want. Distilled.. better.

You also know that heavy clockers and especially LN2 switches gear often. I am talking about the long term effects.

There are special pcb cleaners though. Some can even be used when a system is up and running. Stuff can be used for servers for example.

Don't want this to make a multi-page discussion so lets just say we are both right.

But you are right on the drying part. Seen my fair share of people just taking the excess moisture of and booting. The key is in the nooks and crannies.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Agree partially. You know that tap water has al sorts of stuff in it that you don't want. Distilled.. better.
> 
> You also know that heavy clockers and especially LN2 switches gear often. I am talking about the long term effects.
> 
> There are special pcb cleaners though. Some can even be used when a system is up and running. Stuff can be used for servers for example.
> 
> Don't want this to make a multi-page discussion so lets just say we are both right.
> 
> But you are right on the drying part. Seen my fair share of people just taking the excess moisture of and booting. The key is in the nooks and crannies.


Tap water does indeed have 'stuff' in it....and once dry will not affect the PCB,I have an SR2 here that has been washed a few times now with no problems
The fact is,washing a board does not harm to longevity if its dried correctly. There is nothing on the PCB that is damaged by water unless its live,this is fact...not opinion.

PCB cleaners are used for the fast flash off capability,enabling faster return to service.

The stuff in tap water enables it to conduct current,the 'stuff' by itself will not,it requires the water suspension.

As for ln2 clockers running equipment for less time...this is true...however,they run it far beyond spec that any faults are shown up quickly.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tap water does indeed have 'stuff' in it....and once dry will not affect the PCB,I have an SR2 here that has been washed a few times now with no problems
> The fact is,washing a board does not harm to longevity if its dried correctly. There is nothing on the PCB that is damaged by water unless its live,this is fact...not opinion.
> 
> PCB cleaners are used for the fast flash off capability,enabling faster return to service.
> 
> The stuff in tap water enables it to conduct current,the 'stuff' by itself will not,it requires the water suspension.
> 
> As for ln2 clockers running equipment for less time...this is true...however,they run it far beyond spec that any faults are shown up quickly.


Case closed


----------



## prznar1

Ok, so we have waterblocks for rx 480 from ek and xspc coming. Im adding third party to party. Watercool







Info provided directly from them.


----------



## Steamroller83

I sleep better at night when i wash my stuff with distilled water.







Never washed a PCB, but i started washing my fans.... First i wash them with soap and tap water, then i just rinse them with distilled water. Partly because i want them to be spot clean, so there is no limescale residue on them.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,I have put mobo's thru dishwashers before with no problems at al,ln2 clockers regularly dump boards into a washing bowl and scrub them with brushes.
> 
> Washing a PCB is fine as long as its dried properly. Spraying a board with alcohol is also fine,it displaces water that can hide under SM components.
> 
> The trick is drying it right out,this requires patience.


Truth, people think washing electronics is bad for them, the fact is, as long as there is no power to it, it won't get damaged if left to dry. Mac keyboards get thrown into dishwashers in the USA a bit apparently I remember seeing a video on the tubes about it lol. Like stated in your last post on this subject PCB cleaners are much faster.


----------



## Sem

Has anyone ever heard of a CPU block affecting GPU temps

I recently changed my Alphacool Rads out for some Black ice ones and changed my CPU block from original Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
And when I put the loop back together the temps on GPU1 is now consistently 5-6c higher than GPU2 while before they were the same with even GPU2 being 1c hotter

I know the Nemesis GTS is really restrictive so I put my D5 pump at full speed and that didn't make a difference
I swapped my Alphacool rads back in but it didn't seem to make a difference either as its still 5c higher the only other thing that's changed is the CPU block

when i get home i might swap the original supremacy back in


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Has anyone ever heard of a CPU block affecting GPU temps
> 
> I recently changed my Alphacool Rads out for some Black ice ones and changed my CPU block from original Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
> And when I put the loop back together the temps on GPU1 is now consistently 5-6c higher than GPU2 while before they were the same with even GPU2 being 1c hotter
> 
> I know the Nemesis GTS is really restrictive so I put my D5 pump at full speed and that didn't make a difference
> I swapped my Alphacool rads back in but it didn't seem to make a difference either as its still 5c higher the only other thing that's changed is the CPU block
> 
> when i get home i might swap the original supremacy back in


You answered your own question really, you've done all the testing so would suggest the 5c is either due to the added heat or restriction plus just making your pump faster doesn't reduce temps alone your fans do most of the leg work when cooling your system. if you've knocked a fan plug off while changing things then 5c would be a result.

It's possible your ambient temps could be to blame if it's warmer in the house or you adding to the loop you disturbed something? Not sure lol.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Has anyone ever heard of a CPU block affecting GPU temps
> 
> I recently changed my Alphacool Rads out for some Black ice ones and changed my CPU block from original Supremacy to a Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
> And when I put the loop back together the temps on GPU1 is now consistently 5-6c higher than GPU2 while before they were the same with even GPU2 being 1c hotter
> 
> I know the Nemesis GTS is really restrictive so I put my D5 pump at full speed and that didn't make a difference
> I swapped my Alphacool rads back in but it didn't seem to make a difference either as its still 5c higher the only other thing that's changed is the CPU block
> 
> when i get home i might swap the original supremacy back in


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You answered your own question really, you've done all the testing so would suggest the 5c is either due to the added heat or restriction plus just making your pump faster doesn't reduce temps alone your fans do most of the leg work when cooling your system. if you've knocked a fan plug off while changing things then 5c would be a result.
> 
> It's possible your ambient temps could be to blame if it's warmer in the house or you adding to the loop you disturbed something? Not sure lol.


It could be the TIM was messed up some how when installed, that would be my guess, especially because of the high variation between the two. Pull the block off, check the TIM, and reapply would be my suggestion.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> It could be the TIM was messed up some how when installed, that would be my guess, especially because of the high variation between the two. Pull the block off, check the TIM, and reapply would be my suggestion.


This would be my first suggestion as well. Reapply TIM and check temps again.

TCO


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I would love to see a non dvi version. That gigantic dongle needs to die! Anyway im still waiting to see how the things will go. GTX 1060, waterblocks for both etc. Where is my popcorn xD


The ref does not have DVI. And I need DVI, other wise it be a pain in the arse to hook to my monitor which only has dual DVI. I plan to rock this monitor for several years more so they better the hell keep DVI on GPUs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> dvi is the only way to use a dual link dvi only monitor. these dual link dvi only monitors are the best 1440p monitors around.


That is what I am rocking atm. Love the screen quality on this thing, though that DVI cord was a pain to hook up to it. Thing is crazy huge for a cord.

It be one big cord.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## staccker

hey guys,

I am working on putting together a watercooling loop in the new InWin 303 and I was wondering if you guys thought this was good for loop direction. There is one intake fan in the back and the rest are EK Vardars set in push direction. I do not have the fans at the bottom doing push from the bottom because my MB IO connections interfear with mounting the fans and rad so the Rad is actually raised mounted using some rubber washers.

The loop consists of :
- 2x 360mm EK PE Rads
- Ek Supremacy EVO Nickel WB
- EK 140 Revo D5 pump
- 7970 EK Nickel WB
- Rigid PETG tubing



Cheers


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staccker*
> 
> hey guys,
> 
> I am working on putting together a watercooling loop in the new InWin 303 and I was wondering if you guys thought this was good for loop direction. There is one intake fan in the back and the rest are EK Vardars set in push direction. I do not have the fans at the bottom doing push from the bottom because my MB IO connections interfear with mounting the fans and rad so the Rad is actually raised mounted using some rubber washers.
> 
> The loop consists of :
> - 2x 360mm EK PE Rads
> - Ek Supremacy EVO Nickel WB
> - EK 140 Revo D5 pump
> - 7970 EK Nickel WB
> - Rigid PETG tubing
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


Change the direction of the flow on all the fans is my two cents. You always want your radiators to get fresh air. Besides that would create a positive pressure, this means a lot more intake than exhaust so any little cracks and openings in the case don't intake dust, instead all the openings will have a little bit of air coming out of them. Put your fan filters on the radiator fans instead for easier cleaning.


----------



## marshymellows

Just started a new project. I dont have any parts yet (i do but they are in my current pc and i dont fancy ripping them out yet) waiting on the new ek block for the 480 and what the aftermarket cards will deliver. but here is a sneak peak of what i have planned.
(Note that i dont know exactly where the fittings will be placed and that routing of the tubing can change)

Then plan is then to put this into a glas box and have the psu and watercooling under the table


----------



## Artah

Guys I'm redoing one of my rigs. 11x140mm rad 4 gpu blocks 1 CPU block. One D5 PWM aquaero pump. Should I add a second one? I have a d5 vario. Thoughts? Thanks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

It would be recommended to have a second to push through all those blocks


----------



## lowfat

If the GPU blocks are in parallel or semi-parallel you'll be fine w/ a single pump.


----------



## Chopper1591

Found some time today to inspect the Primo, make measures and decide what I want to do...

My idea was to mount the d5 x-res on the bottom of the case next to the 420 radiator. After measuring it seems like it should fit.

Obviously had to remove the dual 140mm bracket and the bottom hdd cage:

Then I took measurements. Placed the measuring tape ~1mm away from the front fan.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Then looked where 40.5cm was (the length of my UT60.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Placed a small Allen key there.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Placed the pump bracket on the two m3(?) holes that are in line, see above picture.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






As you can see it should fit. Will have to see when I actually place the radiator when I have all the parts I need for the loop.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







If this doesn't work. I also measured the room from my gpu to the reservoir bracket. Should even fit there.
Card is 26.6cm in length (from the pci cover to the edge of the pcb/block.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






~34cm to the 5.25" bays. This makes 7.4cm room to place my pump/res.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Res tube is around 6.3cm in diameter. Pump top is 8cm but I can place the top below the gpu easily. So I should be good either way.
My idea is that the first option is best as the reservoir bracket looks to be worse in dampening the pump vibrations. Placing the pump at the bottom of the case also makes tubing routing shorter.

What do you guys think?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If the GPU blocks are in parallel or semi-parallel you'll be fine w/ a single pump.


I think he will be alright even with serial,I could go on with examples but I have said it so often....


----------



## Artah

I'm having a hard time finding a good spot for a 2nd pump. Two gpu blocks are in parallel and then the two sets are in series. How about two D5 pumps setup in parallel mode? I've never done that and wonder if they would fight each other too much if I did if it even makes sense. My rig is all over the place at the moment in the kitchen lol.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I'm having a hard time finding a good spot for a 2nd pump. Two gpu blocks are in parallel and then the two sets are in series. How about two D5 pumps setup in parallel mode? I've never done that and wonder if they would fight each other too much if I did if it even makes sense. My rig is all over the place at the moment in the kitchen lol.


No experience myself but parallel pumping seems like a no-go.

My stuff usually expands past one room.









Edit:
Just made a few more drawings. It's hard to plan rigid tubing IMO.
I have no clue what would look better.... and don't want to spend a lot on tubing to try them all.









4 ideas:





I kinda like the straight tubing on the third layout.
Might also do those straights with the pump next to the lower rad.

What do you guys think?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I'm having a hard time finding a good spot for a 2nd pump. Two gpu blocks are in parallel and then the two sets are in series. How about two D5 pumps setup in parallel mode? I've never done that and wonder if they would fight each other too much if I did if it even makes sense. My rig is all over the place at the moment in the kitchen lol.


https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/04/26/pump-setup-series-vs-parallel/

Parallel blocks is fine. Parallel pumps is a bad idea. Essentially you loose the redundancy of serial pumps in case of failure of one of the pumps. You most likely will be fine with one pump. Remember efficiency of these pumps increase a lot when the flow is small.


----------



## Ceadderman

Why a rotated 90* on the block? You will get that with a properly bent tube. Okay I think I see now, you're referring to the tube itself coming off the GPU block is rotated and bent at a 45 to link up with the CPU block?









Otherwise I have to say that I do indeed like the 3rd version otherwise.









Pump and Res are in a reasonable location. But don't forget to include a S/O valve and a T to your setup if you're gonna do Hardline. Otherwise draining your loop is gonna be a heckuva chore.









~Ceadder


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why a rotated 90* on the block? You will get that with a properly bent tube. Okay I think I see now, you're referring to the tube itself coming off the GPU block is rotated and bent at a 45 to link up with the CPU block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I have to say that I do indeed like the 3rd version otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump and Res are in a reasonable location. But don't forget to include a S/O valve and a T to your setup if you're gonna do Hardline. Otherwise draining your loop is gonna be a heckuva chore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh no, I actually meant a 90 degree turn of the cpu block itself. The drawing was a bit misleading....

I can also do this so I can still use the pump bracket to absorb vibrations.

Can switch the gpu to rad and rad to res line but I think the above looks better.

Ehmm. What do you mean with s/o valve?
And I do of course use a drain line. Forgot to do it when I did my first build (with soft tubing) and it was a PITA to drain.









*Also*
I am about ready to place my order for everything I need but can someone give me some insight in the difference of PETG tubes? Why are Bitspower for example so much more expensive compared to EK and CF1?

Bitspower None Chamfer PETG Link Tube OD12MM-Length 1000MM - BP-NCPLT12-L1000 €12,95
CF1 Hard Tube 12/10 mm PETG - 5 x 50cm €19,95
EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12mm 500mm - 2pcs €6,95


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Oh no, I actually meant a 90 degree turn of the cpu block itself. The drawing was a bit misleading....
> 
> I can also do this so I can still use the pump bracket to absorb vibrations.
> 
> Can switch the gpu to rad and rad to res line but I think the above looks better.
> 
> Ehmm. What do you mean with s/o valve?
> And I do of course use a drain line. Forgot to do it when I did my first build (with soft tubing) and it was a PITA to drain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Also*
> I am about ready to place my order for everything I need but can someone give me some insight in the difference of PETG tubes? Why are Bitspower for example so much more expensive compared to EK and CF1?
> 
> Bitspower None Chamfer PETG Link Tube OD12MM-Length 1000MM - BP-NCPLT12-L1000 €12,95
> CF1 Hard Tube 12/10 mm PETG - 5 x 50cm €19,95
> EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12mm 500mm - 2pcs €6,95


Bitspower is more expensive because Vincent needs a new yacht.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower is more expensive because Vincent needs a new yacht.


Lol, genuinely lost it when reading that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ehmm. *What do you mean with s/o valve*?
> 
> And I do of course use a drain line. Forgot to do it when I did my first build (with soft tubing) and it was a PITA to drain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Also*
> I am about ready to place my order for everything I need but can someone give me some insight in the difference of PETG tubes? Why are Bitspower for example so much more expensive compared to EK and CF1?
> 
> Bitspower None Chamfer PETG Link Tube OD12MM-Length 1000MM - BP-NCPLT12-L1000 €12,95
> CF1 Hard Tube 12/10 mm PETG - 5 x 50cm €19,95
> EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12mm 500mm - 2pcs €6,95












S/O valve or "shutoff valve" or "ball valve" keeps things from getting messy when you drain. BPs are rather spendy but they look sharp and don't feel cheap either. I rather like mine. It cost me to get only 2 fittings when I ordered it from PPCs, but it was what I could afford to do when I pulled the trigger on it with my Dominator block. PPCs' likes bleeding my budget dry with their shipping costs. At least it takes a whack at how much I have left to purchase for my build. MMRS Res, Darkside LED strips, Three 360 PEs(maybe two with an SE) nine Darkside GTs, more Hardline and making yet *another* change to my fittings. Likely to be getting the new Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings. So out with the old and unused and in with the new. I swear this build changes fittings more than a stripper changes her costume.
















Reason for expense is simple, the more difficult it is for a vendor to procure hardware the more they pass it on to us. Then of course you're paying for name brand recognition with BP. Think of them as the Nike Air Jordans of the water cooling world.









~Ceadder


----------



## karnak12

A lifetime ago we (me and the other guys I worked with) used to pull computer equipment off of submarines after they were done with sea trials. We then hosed down the equipment with fresh water followed by spraying them with a chemical that would replace/displace water. This stuff would even be effective for bulkhead connectors. We then left the equipment to dry for a time, power checked it, packed it all up and sent it out to the shipyards to be re-installed in the next submarine in line for it. worked just fine. And this wasn't just a computer, this was 8-10 19 inch racks of equipment.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower is more expensive because Vincent needs a new yacht.


Ha that is a good one. And believable to








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> S/O valve or "shutoff valve" or "ball valve" keeps things from getting messy when you drain. BPs are rather spendy but they look sharp and don't feel cheap either. I rather like mine. It cost me to get only 2 fittings when I ordered it from PPCs, but it was what I could afford to do when I pulled the trigger on it with my Dominator block. PPCs' likes bleeding my budget dry with their shipping costs. At least it takes a whack at how much I have left to purchase for my build. MMRS Res, Darkside LED strips, Three 360 PEs(maybe two with an SE) nine Darkside GTs, more Hardline and making yet *another* change to my fittings. Likely to be getting the new Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings. So out with the old and unused and in with the new. I swear this build changes fittings more than a stripper changes her costume.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reason for expense is simple, the more difficult it is for a vendor to procure hardware the more they pass it on to us. Then of course you're paying for name brand recognition with BP. Think of them as the Nike Air Jordans of the water cooling world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh ofcourse. Will be using a valve. Just a cheap 7 euro one.

So you say I should be good with the cheaper PETG? As rigid tubing is logo free after all...

I am however going to buy BP fittings as I like the looks and they are good quality.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ha that is a good one. And believable to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh ofcourse. Will be using a valve. Just a cheap 7 euro one.
> 
> So you say I should be good with the cheaper PETG? As rigid tubing is logo free after all...
> 
> I am however going to buy BP fittings as I like the looks and they are good quality.


I used xspc's and BP's PETG for my build since they were low on xspc's cheaper stock. I couldn't tell any difference and neither could my calipers or fittings


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower is more expensive because Vincent needs a new yacht.
> 
> 
> 
> Ha that is a good one. And believable to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> S/O valve or "shutoff valve" or "ball valve" keeps things from getting messy when you drain. BPs are rather spendy but they look sharp and don't feel cheap either. I rather like mine. It cost me to get only 2 fittings when I ordered it from PPCs, but it was what I could afford to do when I pulled the trigger on it with my Dominator block. PPCs' likes bleeding my budget dry with their shipping costs. At least it takes a whack at how much I have left to purchase for my build. MMRS Res, Darkside LED strips, Three 360 PEs(maybe two with an SE) nine Darkside GTs, more Hardline and making yet *another* change to my fittings. Likely to be getting the new Monsoon Economy Hardline fittings. So out with the old and unused and in with the new. I swear this build changes fittings more than a stripper changes her costume.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reason for expense is simple, the more difficult it is for a vendor to procure hardware the more they pass it on to us. Then of course you're paying for name brand recognition with BP. Think of them as the Nike Air Jordans of the water cooling world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh ofcourse. Will be using a valve. Just a cheap 7 euro one.
> 
> *So you say I should be good with the cheaper PETG?* As rigid tubing is logo free after all...
> 
> I am however going to buy BP fittings as I like the looks and they are good quality.
Click to expand...

You should. So long as your fitting ID matches the tubing OD.

Companies like Monsoon, use SAE specs. Whereas EK and BP use Metric.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

You guys ready?!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1590424/sponsored-verkt-y-cu-an-elegant-steampunk-2p-workstation


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup!









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

1. Anyone know the thickest radiator I can fit in the Corsair Air 240 with a MSI 1080 X Gaming? Would Hardware Labs SR2 GTX 240 fit?
2. Is EK the only who has waterblock for MSI GTX 1080 X Gaming? I was hoping for a block that would cover the entire GPU.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I'm having a hard time finding a good spot for a 2nd pump. Two gpu blocks are in parallel and then the two sets are in series. How about two D5 pumps setup in parallel mode? I've never done that and wonder if they would fight each other too much if I did if it even makes sense. My rig is all over the place at the moment in the kitchen lol.
> 
> 
> 
> No experience myself but parallel pumping seems like a no-go.
> 
> My stuff usually expands past one room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Just made a few more drawings. It's hard to plan rigid tubing IMO.
> I have no clue what would look better.... and don't want to spend a lot on tubing to try them all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4 ideas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda like the straight tubing on the third layout.
> Might also do those straights with the pump next to the lower rad.
> 
> What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I'm having a hard time finding a good spot for a 2nd pump. Two gpu blocks are in parallel and then the two sets are in series. How about two D5 pumps setup in parallel mode? I've never done that and wonder if they would fight each other too much if I did if it even makes sense. My rig is all over the place at the moment in the kitchen lol.
> 
> 
> 
> No experience myself but parallel pumping seems like a no-go.
> 
> My stuff usually expands past one room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Just made a few more drawings. It's hard to plan rigid tubing IMO.
> I have no clue what would look better.... and don't want to spend a lot on tubing to try them all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4 ideas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda like the straight tubing on the third layout.
> Might also do those straights with the pump next to the lower rad.
> 
> What do you guys think?
Click to expand...





What about something like this?



You could use soft tubing in the hidden areas to make it easier. A minimalist tubing loop.


----------



## rolldog

I need a little advice and a little input deciding on my lighting with the Mayhems coolant I'm going to use in my new build. Overall, my build is blue and white. I'm setting up 2 loops and all acrylic tubing (one loop I was thinking of using UV blue/clear coolant and the other loop using UV White coolant). I was thinking about lighting everything with UV lighting. I bought some of the Monsoon LED stop fittings and was going to add UV LEDs where I could to shine into the tubing. Both of my GPUs both have acrylic waterblocks with room for 2 3mm LEDs on each one. I bought some of the Darkside UV strips to help with the overall lighting, but I'd like to find some bright individual LEDs to light up the GPUs so the coolant can be seen running through. If anyone knows of the brightness individual UV LEDs, please let me know.

Another thought I had was to use white LED lighting everywhere with blue and white pastel colored coolant in each loop, but I'm not sure how much light would penetrate the pastel coolant, especially with the LED stop fittings, so they might not even be necessary. I could use white LEDs to light specific places in my case, and in the GPU waterblocks and my acrylic pump top so thee pastel coolant can be seen better. Also, all of my fans either have blue LEDs or white LEDs, but I've set them up with a switch so I can turn all the fan LEDs off while the fan continues to run.

I'm really on the fence about this. I've looked through numerous builds but still can't decide what to do. Hopefully, someone who's worked with builds with these types of lighting can chime in since I'm at a stopping point until I make a decision. This may seem anal, but after putting in a as many hours on this build that I have, I want everything to be perfect


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I need a little advice and a little input deciding on my lighting with the Mayhems coolant I'm going to use in my new build. Overall, my build is blue and white. I'm setting up 2 loops and all acrylic tubing (one loop I was thinking of using UV blue/clear coolant and the other loop using UV White coolant). I was thinking about lighting everything with UV lighting. I bought some of the Monsoon LED stop fittings and was going to add UV LEDs where I could to shine into the tubing. Both of my GPUs both have acrylic waterblocks with room for 2 3mm LEDs on each one. I bought some of the Darkside UV strips to help with the overall lighting, but I'd like to find some bright individual LEDs to light up the GPUs so the coolant can be seen running through. If anyone knows of the brightness individual UV LEDs, please let me know.
> 
> Another thought I had was to use white LED lighting everywhere with blue and white pastel colored coolant in each loop, but I'm not sure how much light would penetrate the pastel coolant, especially with the LED stop fittings, so they might not even be necessary. I could use white LEDs to light specific places in my case, and in the GPU waterblocks and my acrylic pump top so thee pastel coolant can be seen better. Also, all of my fans either have blue LEDs or white LEDs, but I've set them up with a switch so I can turn all the fan LEDs off while the fan continues to run.
> 
> I'm really on the fence about this. I've looked through numerous builds but still can't decide what to do. Hopefully, someone who's worked with builds with these types of lighting can chime in since I'm at a stopping point until I make a decision. This may seem anal, but after putting in a as many hours on this build that I have, I want everything to be perfect


I think you will be the happiest with pastel and white lighting. The UV looks amazing, but can be a pain to get right. The UV effect will also fade over time and you'll need to add more UV dye to the loop. Any other light will also kill the effect, so unless you're in a dark room or have your system hidden under a desk you just won't get that amazing UV look. My green lantern rig is UV but I'm never sitting here in the dark so that's kind of lost, still looks great in daylight though









I doubt you would be able to see any light through the pastel though, so you would want to have more of a spotlight on certain areas and skip the LED fittings. The LED holes in blocks usually work well as spotlights, just have to get bright LEDs.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think you will be the happiest with pastel and white lighting. The UV looks amazing, but can be a pain to get right. The UV effect will also fade over time and you'll need to add more UV dye to the loop. Any other light will also kill the effect, so unless you're in a dark room or have your system hidden under a desk you just won't get that amazing UV look. My green lantern rig is UV but I'm never sitting here in the dark so that's kind of lost, still looks great in daylight though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt you would be able to see any light through the pastel though, so you would want to have more of a spotlight on certain areas and skip the LED fittings. The LED holes in blocks usually work well as spotlights, just have to get bright LEDs.


Yep, that was kinda my thinking as well. Originally going with UV, but the lights must be very bright and the room very dark to get a really good look. I want my rig to be bright and the blues and whites to really stand out. I wonder how long it's been since I bought this Mayhem UV coolant and these UV lights. I've been in Thailand for the last 2 weeks so I might need to file an RMA now and exchange everything when I get back on Wednesday. I thought about finding a place over here that sells Bitspower, but I don't have enough time to go shopping for computer parts.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I'm curious about something, the EK Predator & Swiftech are the only "upgradeable" AIO's on the market aren't they?

Asking because I've got a "custom loop" atm but I'm sick of it, to much of a pain to bleed and upgrade parts so was thinking of going a couple of AIO's I can upgrade and do separate loops for the GPU and CPU when I rebuild.


----------



## ruffhi

I have a question for you ... my color scheme is based on the liquorice allsorts sweet.


Spoiler: liquorice allsorts picture















The main build is black and white with color accents. Now ... the question ... which sleeving color scheme should I use for the 24-pin extension. The green is fairly fluro but doesn't appear to want appear correctly. I could use pink / black / yellow / black / orange too.

Also ... should I use black or white connectors to plug into my motherboard?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Don't think I've posted my finished build in here. This time around I wanted something dark. A lot of black. No fancy lights or any of that jazz. This is my first case in many years since I've been using test benches for quite a while as my daily drivers. So nice to satisfy my OCD of cable management finally. Quite impossible to do with a test bench. My GPU cables need a bit of work though. Cable combs all snapped on me. This case is pretty cool. Managed to fit a 240mm, 360mm, and 420mm radiator along with two D5's and the reservoir.

I've hid the power cable from the second D5 better now, but next thing I need to do is get the silver stickers off of the pumps to get moar black.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Don't think I've posted my finished build in here. This time around I wanted something dark. A lot of black. No fancy lights or any of that jazz. This is my first case in many years since I've been using test benches for quite a while as my daily drivers. So nice to satisfy my OCD of cable management finally. Quite impossible to do with a test bench. My GPU cables need a bit of work though. Cable combs all snapped on me. This case is pretty cool. Managed to fit a 240mm, 360mm, and 420mm radiator along with two D5's and the reservoir.
> 
> I've hid the power cable from the second D5 better now, but next thing I need to do is get the silver stickers off of the pumps to get moar black.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good.
Question: can you measure some things for me? I also received my Primo last week but it's still empty (except for one radiator).
I want to know the length between the top and bottom radiator and between the cpu port and the bottom rad.


If you want to measure those for me I would be grateful.
Won't have to be mm accurate (just a rough measure).


----------



## emsj86

So it been in my head for sometime but I do t have the tools to really do it (well maybe). I want to get a custom reservoir that I can use as a mid plate. Or even just a mid plate with water. Oiled channels. Is there anyone out there who does this work ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So it been in my head for sometime but I do t have the tools to really do it (well maybe). I want to get a custom reservoir that I can use as a mid plate. Or even just a mid plate with water. Oiled channels. Is there anyone out there who does this work ?


from what I gather most who make custom reservoirs for their builds just get acrylic cut to size and then threads the ports and glues it together. Aparently cast acrylic is best for work like that as well so it's not going to be cheap to start with.

Personally I would take several plates and put them on top of eachother, than way you get a perfect plat surface fro gluing them and you can get all kinds of crazy shapes cut in to the plate that would be the "reservoir". It would probably also be the cheapest as well, since the tolerances don't need to be that accurate to get it done. the downside is that you would see the "stack" from the side of the plate, but I think that would look quite cool actually.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So it been in my head for sometime but I do t have the tools to really do it (well maybe). I want to get a custom reservoir that I can use as a mid plate. Or even just a mid plate with water. Oiled channels. Is there anyone out there who does this work ?


Anyone that has like a CNC cutter could do it for you for a price, that's how Parvum cases do their stuff for example, so if you look around and get some of your materials you should be okay. You can use programs to make the design then give them the files etc to make it easier for them. You could do it by hand like stated above it might not be perfect but plastic is very forgiving as long as you don't overdo it.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So it been in my head for sometime but I do t have the tools to really do it (well maybe). I want to get a custom reservoir that I can use as a mid plate. Or even just a mid plate with water. Oiled channels. Is there anyone out there who does this work ?


I want to see this. Subbed!
Oh, wait.. you can't sub to a post.









Seriously though, make a thread about this. Curious to see what you decide.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So I'm finally in the assembly stage of my build, but the compression fittings are a b*tch to work with. Anyone know of a way to make my tubing a bit easier to put on them? the way it is now I keep working at each fitting for like 5 minutes before actually getting anything done.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I'm finally in the assembly stage of my build, but the compression fittings are a b*tch to work with. Anyone know of a way to make my tubing a bit easier to put on them? the way it is now I keep working at each fitting for like 5 minutes before actually getting anything done.


what tube are you using? In any case warm a bit of water and dip the end of the tubing in it for 20-30 seconds and try again. Should make life easier.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I'm finally in the assembly stage of my build, but the compression fittings are a b*tch to work with. Anyone know of a way to make my tubing a bit easier to put on them? the way it is now I keep working at each fitting for like 5 minutes before actually getting anything done.


Primochill Advanced LRT? Boiling hot water in a jug, dip the end of the tube in the water for a minute or so then screw the compression ring down before it cools and hardens again.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I'm finally in the assembly stage of my build, but the compression fittings are a b*tch to work with. Anyone know of a way to make my tubing a bit easier to put on them? the way it is now I keep working at each fitting for like 5 minutes before actually getting anything done.
> 
> 
> 
> what tube are you using? In any case warm a bit of water and dip the end of the tubing in it for 20-30 seconds and try again. Should make life easier.
Click to expand...

I would sometimes stick a pair of needle nose pliers into the end of the hose, open them up, and stretch the tubing out some. Makes it much easier to insert the fitting.

Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> what tube are you using? In any case warm a bit of water and dip the end of the tubing in it for 20-30 seconds and try again. Should make life easier.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT? Boiling hot water in a jug, dip the end of the tube in the water for a minute or so then screw the compression ring down before it cools and hardens again.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I would sometimes stick a pair of needle nose pliers into the end of the hose, open them up, and stretch the tubing out some. Makes it much easier to insert the fitting.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk


Yeah it's Advanced LRT, how did you know? I'll try both those methods, sounds like it should make it quite a bit easier than forcing the thing.

Thanks


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah it's Advanced LRT, how did you know? I'll try both those methods, sounds like it should make it quite a bit easier than forcing the thing.
> 
> Thanks


Because I've posted about it many times before, nothing compares to how tough that tubing is to use compression fittings on, I recently converted to using Mayhems tubing instead as it's a lot softer and seems to stay as clear as A-LRT.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Because I've posted about it many times before, nothing compares to how tough that tubing is to use compression fittings on, I recently converted to using Mayhems tubing instead as it's a lot softer and seems to stay as clear as A-LRT.


So it's a known issue then







Guess that means it takes as much for it to fall of as well then, so it would be perfect for barbs


----------



## Nichismo

is this.... soft tubing we are speaking of??

cant really be that bad, can it??

When I used 16mm Crystal link and the Multi-link enhanced fittings from Bitspower, I couldn't believe how much leverage and pressure I needed to get the tube to fit, and this was after spending a tedious amount of time for the end of each tube, sanding, chamfering, polishing and flattening every one.....


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> is this.... soft tubing we are speaking of??
> 
> cant really be that bad, can it??
> 
> When I used 16mm Crystal link and the Multi-link enhanced fittings from Bitspower, I couldn't believe how much leverage and pressure I needed to get the tube to fit, and this was after spending a tedious amount of time for the end of each tube, sanding, chamfering, polishing and flattening every one.....


I guess it's trivial compared to hard lines, but then again piping needs that tight fit to not leak... But yeah, I'm going soft tubing for the moment. I have the fittings and tubing so I figure why the hell not







Also I just know for a fact that I will be to lazy to redo things when I swap hardware


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, that Primochill can be pretty darn tight going on. My first loop I did, I use Primochill. The heating with water trick definitely works.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, that Primochill can be pretty darn tight going on. My first loop I did, I use Primochill. The heating with water trick definitely works.


Yeah I managed to get on a lot more fittings in the last 10 minutes than the last hour







Still figuring out the layout as I'm building, it's so annoying when stuff that ou really didn't expect creates a clearance issue... I really didn't think building in a Primo would lead me to an issue surrounding space, but I guess you use it when you have it


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah I managed to get on a lot more fittings in the last 10 minutes than the last hour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still figuring out the layout as I'm building, it's so annoying when stuff that ou really didn't expect creates a clearance issue... I really didn't think building in a Primo would lead me to an issue surrounding space, but I guess you use it when you have it


Yeah, it is a surprise when you start putting the lines in what issues you might run in to.

I had that fun doing my first hard line loop. I will say this. A three bend on one tube with two planes is not a fun endeavor to do. Then figuring out how to do the other bend near it. May later redo that one run when I do my deep clean of the rig this year.

I got so piss off at the Mansoon kit, I just turn around and use the squares on the carpet to figure my bends out. Seems to get nicer bends doing that.


----------



## tongerks

Block and cpu are loose, i follow the instruction on website and manuals but the spring is no effect on giving pressure to the cpu block to hit the processor, when i put the spring it just go over the hole of the lock knot. help please.

i also found that the spring is different from the package on product pic.

im using the mounting screw on the top of the picture to my 1151 mother board.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Finally ready for leaktest







That will have to wait for tomorrow though, can't believe I stayed up til 8 in the morning working on this thing









Oh and since it's a new day and all... Happy 4th of July to all the Americans in here


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally ready for leaktest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That will have to wait for tomorrow though, can't believe I stayed up til 8 in the morning working on this thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and since it's a new day and all... Happy 4th of July to all the Americans in here


It is looking quite good actually. I like those lines and the hidden loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> Block and cpu are loose, i follow the instruction on website and manuals but the spring is no effect on giving pressure to the cpu block to hit the processor, when i put the spring it just go over the hole of the lock knot. help please.
> 
> i also found that the spring is different from the package on product pic.
> 
> im using the mounting screw on the top of the picture to my 1151 mother board.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you install the backplate? Which block are you using?


----------



## Fyrwulf

So I Blitzed my radiators today and I can confirm that HWLabs' rep for really clean radiators is deserved. The first one had some small flux particulate, but was otherwise clean. The second one was flawless.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Finally ready for leaktest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That will have to wait for tomorrow though, can't believe I stayed up til 8 in the morning working on this thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and since it's a new day and all... Happy 4th of July to all the Americans in here


its looking good. I just got to boot up mine more than days later. Lots to fix still.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I'm finally in the assembly stage of my build, but the compression fittings are a b*tch to work with. Anyone know of a way to make my tubing a bit easier to put on them? the way it is now I keep working at each fitting for like 5 minutes before actually getting anything done.


I'm redoing my rig and I think I lost all my fingerprints working with compression fittings.


----------



## tongerks

Quote:


> Did you install the backplate? Which block are you using?


yes i installed it and im using ek supremacy evo.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> yes i installed it and im using ek supremacy evo.


Those springs look a lot smaller than my EVO for 1151. I am almost positive you didn't but it is worth asking; did you accidentally purchase the x99 version of the EVO?


----------



## tongerks

no i just bought in 2nd hand on a friend. yeah i think its the spring. i make a temporary fix, i put washer to block the spring and pressure the block to hit the proccessor. but i think it has too much pressure. and also i see the spring is silver and my spring is dark colored.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Those springs look a lot smaller than my EVO for 1151. I am almost positive you didn't but it is worth asking; did you accidentally purchase the x99 version of the EVO?


EVO comes with a single set of springs for both mainstream and extreme parts IIRC.

My EVO came in with a single set of springs and 2 sets of standoffs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> no i just bought in 2nd hand on a friend. yeah i think its the spring. i make a temporary fix, i put washer to block the spring and pressure the block to hit the proccessor. but i think it has too much pressure. and also i see the spring is silver and my spring is dark colored.


Those are different springs. Return to your friend and ask for the originals.


----------



## dmfree88

I have been looking into corrugated metal tubing both with and without braided exterior. I think it would look pretty sweet in a loop and be easily moldable to shape. Wondering if anyone can inform me on what types of metal tubing are safe to use that wont corrode on the inside (if any)? Would it be smarter to use flexible hosing inside of the metal tubing? I could then use any kind just get a large diameter that fits flexible hosing within it. I noticed a few stainless steel builds out there but I am curious of the quality of components and what would be best?

Post thought:

Probably just need to know what to avoid more than anything







.


----------



## tongerks

thanks but he dont have the complete accessories when his pc delivered. by the way thanks







ill just order to ekwb .


----------



## Streetdragon

My little build.
Extendet yesterday the loop for a second r9 390 nitro.

H240-X
Alphacool NexXxoS GPX - ATI R9 390 M01 X2
And 1 phobya 240.
On the phobya 240 are corsair 120 sp in push/pull

H240-X has the stock fans with one Noctua NF-A14.

The Mastercleer tubings are a bit cloudy... Flushed the rad and everything but still.... maybe switch the tubes in the future with colores ones.

Nothing spezial compared with other builds here^^

The black tape is there, because the fitting was screwed loose. With tape it is way more solid.

what do you think?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> 
> My little build.
> Extendet yesterday the loop for a second r9 390 nitro.
> 
> H240-X
> Alphacool NexXxoS GPX - ATI R9 390 M01 X2
> And 1 phobya 240.
> On the phobya 240 are corsair 120 sp in push/pull
> 
> H240-X has the stock fans with one Noctua NF-A14.
> 
> The Mastercleer tubings are a bit cloudy... Flushed the rad and everything but still.... maybe switch the tubes in the future with colores ones.
> 
> Nothing spezial compared with other builds here^^
> 
> The black tape is there, because the fitting was screwed loose. With tape it is way more solid.
> 
> what do you think?


Ditch that tubing when you can, and replace it with some good quality tubing, such as Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT:
http://www.primochill.com/product/primoflex-advanced-lrt-flexible-tubing-12in-id-x-34in-od-retail-10ft-pack-bloodshed-red-copy/

Or EK ZMT:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-19-4-12-5mm

Worth the cost, it'll look much better, and avoid any issues down the road.

Edit:
Perhaps the better tubing will allow you to avoid that black tape as well, or you may need new fittings.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Finished build


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can highly recommend EK ZMT after using it in the Nano S. The ZMT has to be some of the best tubing I've used so far.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Ditch that tubing when you can, and replace it with some good quality tubing, such as Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT:
> http://www.primochill.com/product/primoflex-advanced-lrt-flexible-tubing-12in-id-x-34in-od-retail-10ft-pack-bloodshed-red-copy/
> 
> Or EK ZMT:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-19-4-12-5mm
> 
> Worth the cost, it'll look much better, and avoid any issues down the road.
> 
> Edit:
> Perhaps the better tubing will allow you to avoid that black tape as well, or you may need new fittings.


the tube looks good.... link is saved.

I use this fittings: http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/anschluesse/anschraubtuellen/1610mm/8830/16/10mm-anschraubtuelle-900-drehbar-g1/4-geraendelt-black-nickel?c=11117
Are cheap. What fittings would be a better cheap option? would need 6 of them... maybe 10 if i extend a bit.

Can i use http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/wasserzusaetze/fertiggemisch/16166/aquacomputer-double-protect-ultra-kanister-5000ml?c=370 with the tubing? dont wanna play with distilles water+additions


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I have been looking into corrugated metal tubing both with and without braided exterior. I think it would look pretty sweet in a loop and be easily moldable to shape. Wondering if anyone can inform me on what types of metal tubing are safe to use that wont corrode on the inside (if any)? Would it be smarter to use flexible hosing inside of the metal tubing? I could then use any kind just get a large diameter that fits flexible hosing within it. I noticed a few stainless steel builds out there but I am curious of the quality of components and what would be best?
> 
> Post thought:
> 
> Probably just need to know what to avoid more than anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


There are really only two kinds of piping I would sugest for a watercooled build, meaning Copper and brass. The easiest accessible of which would be copper, in fact the prices are about the same as acrylic piping where I live sice copper pipes are used in these sizes in plumbing. Youll probably have to give them a bit of a polish though if you want it to look respetable.


----------



## rioja




----------



## Kranik

Still need to sleeve cables but otherwise I think she's done. Only two things I'm not a huge fan of: there was some distilled left in the radiator from flushing out the last of the green so when I put in the pastel blue it diluted a bit and the height difference between the pump->motherboard and the motherboard->GPU runs. The first one is a bummer, but there's nothing to do about that second one until I switch GPUs. Hope you guys like it!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Planning a new front for the Bullet BH4 with a big reservoir on the right side:


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Ditch that tubing when you can, and replace it with some good quality tubing, such as Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT:
> http://www.primochill.com/product/primoflex-advanced-lrt-flexible-tubing-12in-id-x-34in-od-retail-10ft-pack-bloodshed-red-copy/
> 
> Or EK ZMT:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-19-4-12-5mm
> 
> Worth the cost, it'll look much better, and avoid any issues down the road.
> 
> Edit:
> Perhaps the better tubing will allow you to avoid that black tape as well, or you may need new fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> the tube looks good.... link is saved.
> 
> I use this fittings: http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/anschluesse/anschraubtuellen/1610mm/8830/16/10mm-anschraubtuelle-900-drehbar-g1/4-geraendelt-black-nickel?c=11117
> Are cheap. What fittings would be a better cheap option? would need 6 of them... maybe 10 if i extend a bit.
> 
> Can i use http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/wasserzusaetze/fertiggemisch/16166/aquacomputer-double-protect-ultra-kanister-5000ml?c=370 with the tubing? dont wanna play with distilles water+additions
Click to expand...

I'm not sure why the black tape is needed. Perhaps those fittings are not sized right for the current Mastercleer tubing you have, idk.
It's important to match your tubing size with the fittings precisely, there could be an issue there.

It's hard to find good, cheap fittings new, but there are numerous brands available, of course. Barrow, EK, etc.
Sometimes there are sales online, I bought some XSPC fittings on sale here, don't know how good they are yet though, lol.
Bitspower are usually good, but pricey (Vincent's yacht fund, according to bneg, lol)

Imo if you don't want to mess with distilled and additives, then that huge jug of premix may be a good option for you.
Not what I would do, but it's your build.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*


I really wish they made the armor for the 990fx version








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I'm not sure why the black tape is needed. Perhaps those fittings are not sized right for the current Mastercleer tubing you have, idk.
> It's important to match your tubing size with the fittings precisely, there could be an issue there.
> 
> It's hard to find good, cheap fittings new, but there are numerous brands available, of course. Barrow, EK, etc.
> Sometimes there are sales online, I bought some XSPC fittings on sale here, don't know how good they are yet though, lol.
> Bitspower are usually good, but pricey (Vincent's yacht fund, according to bneg, lol)
> 
> Imo if you don't want to mess with distilled and additives, then that huge jug of premix may be a good option for you.
> Not what I would do, but it's your build.


Barrow are said to be a good alternative. They are made by the same oem as BP, right?

That said I mostly rol with bitspower. After all we pay for our build, why skimp on a few fittings. Last week I made the order for my goodies to build the primo. 10 BP rigid 12mm fittings set me back 99 euro









The Yacht fund. Haha
I feel a classic coming up.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Barrow are said to be a good alternative. *They are made by the same oem as BP, right?*


No


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I really wish they made the armor for the 990fx version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barrow are said to be a good alternative. *They are made by the same oem as BP, right?*
> 
> That said I mostly rol with bitspower. After all we pay for our build, why skimp on a few fittings. Last week I made the order for my goodies to build the primo. 10 BP rigid 12mm fittings set me back 99 euro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Yacht fund. Haha
> I feel a classic coming up.


Unconfirmed but they are really close on some stuff and very different on others.....


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I really wish they made the armor for the 990fx version


Armor prevents to VRM watercooling


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I'm redoing my rig and I think I lost all my fingerprints working with compression fittings.


LOL...









no doubt!


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I'm redoing my rig and I think I lost all my fingerprints working with compression fittings.


Built my first (semi) custom loop last week and did maintenance today (fixing tubing lengths) can confirm it hurts like heck


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I really wish they made the armor for the 990fx version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barrow are said to be a good alternative. They are made by the same oem as BP, right?
> 
> That said I mostly rol with bitspower. After all we pay for our build, why skimp on a few fittings. Last week I made the order for my goodies to build the primo. 10 BP rigid 12mm fittings set me back 99 euro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Yacht fund. Haha
> I feel a classic coming up.


I bought fifteen compression fittings for 13/10 soft tubing, five 45° angled adapters, five 90° angled adapters, one valve and one plug for the same amount (shipping included). I checked the cost for the same stuff with BP... the cost was 3.5 times that amount










So saying it's a couple of bucks extra is a bit far fetched. I've only read good stuff about Barrow on here, so I hope I can do the same once I'm done with my build

http://www.overclock.net/t/1604362/build-log-in-loving-memory/0_30#post_25320640


----------



## Tim Drake

My first (semi) custom water loop.

Still some tweaks to be done here and there but I think that's the vast majority of everything done









I'm thinking of getting another rad, perhaps a 280mm but i'm not sure if that's worth it.

All in all, the loop was £150~ which I am very happy with considering how minimal it looks.

Fan will be changed out for a spray painted Corsair stock 140mm soon.

Will be adding custom cables hopefully soon too.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Built my first (semi) custom loop last week and did maintenance today (fixing tubing lengths) can confirm it hurts like heck


This the reason I use my little vice grips that I wrap painters tape around the teeth so it don't mess up my fittings.







No mess up fingers while using it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

First one in the wild.

And its in my kitchen.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Built my first (semi) custom loop last week and did maintenance today (fixing tubing lengths) can confirm it hurts like heck


You will get used to it.








I sure know the feeling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I bought fifteen compression fittings for 13/10 soft tubing, five 45° angled adapters, five 90° angled adapters, one valve and one plug for the same amount (shipping included). I checked the cost for the same stuff with BP... the cost was 3.5 times that amount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So saying it's a couple of bucks extra is a bit far fetched. I've only read good stuff about Barrow on here, so I hope I can do the same once I'm done with my build
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1604362/build-log-in-loving-memory/0_30#post_25320640


Ok fair enough. Although prices vary from location to location.
I won't see 3,5 times the price for BP stuff. Or I must compare the local hardwarestore stuff (plumbers inc.







) with BP.

But you are right.
I first wanted to get all compression fittings from Bitspower when I started with WCing but then I realized that only a single 90 rotary compression was like €22. So I "downgraded" to barb fittings, but still a 90 rotary from those were around €12 the piece.

Do note that I run 1/2 3/4 tubing.

You have to agree though that they look and feel good?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first (semi) custom water loop.
> 
> Still some tweaks to be done here and there but I think that's the vast majority of everything done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of getting another rad, perhaps a 280mm but i'm not sure if that's worth it.
> 
> All in all, the loop was £150~ which I am very happy with considering how minimal it looks.
> 
> Fan will be changed out for a spray painted Corsair stock 140mm soon.
> 
> Will be adding custom cables hopefully soon too.


Looks good. Certainly for a first try.

I wish I could make a cpu/gpu look for that price.








Although full custom looks so much better IMO.

If the second rad is worth it? Depends... what are you aiming for? Better temps and/or less noise?
I want as low noise as possible with good cooling so I went overkill for this build (still waiting on parts). 360 + 420 radiator for cpu and single gpu.

Are you willing to use Corsair fans on the radiator? If so, don't.









Free tip: if you go sleeving (or extensions) drop some red/black in there. Should look neat.
When you want to sleeve cables yourself though: be prepared to spend.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> This the reason I use my little vice grips that I wrap painters tape around the teeth so it don't mess up my fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No mess up fingers while using it.


Golden tip right here.
I still feel it....

When I did my first build I was getting soar hands after changing fittings numerous times to figure out my loop order (planning on the go). Took out the pliers and scratched my Bitspower rotary very badly. The horror.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Built my first (semi) custom loop last week and did maintenance today (fixing tubing lengths) can confirm it hurts like heck
> 
> 
> 
> This the reason I use my little vice grips that I wrap painters tape around the teeth so it don't mess up my fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No mess up fingers while using it.
Click to expand...

Painter's tape round the fitting would be best. Because quite honestly if you're using a pair of Vice Grips on any fitting you're courting catastrophe. Hand tight + 1/4" turn max is all you should be putting on your fittings. Otherwise you can crack blocks/ strip threads. I've never had a single issue using my method. Hell I don't even use the inner Hex openings in my fittings(I currently have Monsoon Economies) mounting my fitting bases to anything. There is zero feedback from wrenches and hex keys when it comes to installing fittings imexp.










~Ceadder


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Will tin flux or lead free soldering be safe to use on a copper tubing loop?


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Still need to sleeve cables but otherwise I think she's done. Only two things I'm not a huge fan of: there was some distilled left in the radiator from flushing out the last of the green so when I put in the pastel blue it diluted a bit and the height difference between the pump->motherboard and the motherboard->GPU runs. The first one is a bummer, but there's nothing to do about that second one until I switch GPUs. Hope you guys like it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is bloody awesome in my opinion!


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> This the reason I use my little vice grips that I wrap painters tape around the teeth so it don't mess up my fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No mess up fingers while using it.


These work wonders. They are soft jaw pliers and you can even buy extra pads to replace when they get eaten up. We use them on all the milspec connectors on the weapon systems I work on in the Navy. But like Ceadder said above, you have to be very careful to not overtighten!


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one in the wild.
> 
> And its in my kitchen.


Jealous. So very jealous.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> This is bloody awesome in my opinion!


Aww shucks.







Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Will tin flux or lead free soldering be safe to use on a copper tubing loop?


Don't see why not, since we use it on Copper wiring.









~Ceadder


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> This is bloody awesome in my opinion!


I second that, looks perfect!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> These work wonders. They are soft jaw pliers and you can even buy extra pads to replace when they get eaten up. We use them on all the milspec connectors on the weapon systems I work on in the Navy. But like Ceadder said above, you have to be very careful to not overtighten!


I been using pliers since my first loop. Plus, I do the trick I been doing since working on jet engines. Slightly start them with my fingers, then carefully snug them with grips.

I actually been looking for those! Had something similar when I was a jet mech in the AirForce, but a bit bigger for the cannon plugs on the electronics.

Can't remember how many times I would get piss off at the guys for over tightening plugs, etc. on the engine. Because if one use a toque wrench, I could easily get them off without using the huge breaker bar. I remember the one time I snapped a darn plug trying to loosing it on a IDG because some dumb nut over tighten one (lucky we manage to get it out, otherwise that would of require a drop of the IDG).







Then the other time the breaker bar snapped on a main oil filter housing....grrrrr. We had to use the monster breaker bar we use on the blasted tires with cheat bar to final get that one loose.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I been using pliers since my first loop. Plus, I do the trick I been doing since working on jet engines. Slightly start them with my fingers, then carefully snug them with grips.
> 
> I actually been looking for those! Had something similar when I was a jet mech in the AirForce, but a bit bigger for the cannon plugs on the electronics.
> 
> Can't remember how many times I would get piss off at the guys for over tightening plugs, etc. on the engine. Because if one use a toque wrench, I could easily get them off without using the huge breaker bar. I remember the one time I snapped a darn plug trying to loosing it on a IDG because some dumb nut over tighten one (lucky we manage to get it out, otherwise that would of require a drop of the IDG).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the other time the breaker bar snapped on a main oil filter housing....grrrrr. We had to use the monster breaker bar we use on the blasted tires with cheat bar to final get that one loose.


I feel your pain brother!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't see why not, since we use it on Copper wiring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just not 100% sure that it won't cause any weird reactions over time.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> First one in the wild.
> 
> And its in my kitchen.


That's an awesome box Bneg but I think I've had many of those in my kitchen.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Im back from Toledo Bend. What did I miss?

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Im back from Toledo Bend. What did I miss?
> 
> TCO


Bneg got a box.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't see why not, since we use it on Copper wiring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not 100% sure that it won't cause any weird reactions over time.
Click to expand...

Why not just get a torch and use brazing rods? Would look much better than Tin.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Bneg got a box.


Yes I did. A special box.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Bneg got a box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I did. A special box.
Click to expand...

Just lemme know if you ever need me to middle man your shipments B.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol I'd love to play with a D-Frame, or a InWin case in that matter


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## Dortheleus

Nice!!!!







:thumb:


----------



## ruffhi

Gees Louise! That is one very nice looking case.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I need it.









At almost looks too nice to put parts in it.
Just feels weird.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


good god man... thats is awesome! Look forward to seeing more.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa!

Dats a soma nice case!

Chrome plated frame?


----------



## Nomad692000

Love In Win cases. I was looking at a couple can't make up my mind. @B NEGATIVE sweet.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Speaking of IN WIN's Choice Award Winner @B NEGATIVE... He will be joining us LIVE on Twitch tonight at 9PM EST with special guest IN WIN.











Let us know if you have any questions for our guests over in this thread.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> This the reason I use my little vice grips that I wrap painters tape around the teeth so it don't mess up my fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No mess up fingers while using it.


Dip in hot water if it's advanced LRT but mayhems soft tubing you don't have an issue with losing finger prints lol you can use mechanic gloves too which stops finger prints on mew parts.


----------



## bundymania

Just a little Teaser


















 

https://www.techn.de/
https://www.facebook.com/TechN-Water...3409852257932/
https://www.instagram.com/techn_watercooling/

PS: Of course a full copper block and alu has no water contact


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Just a little Teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.techn.de/
> https://www.facebook.com/TechN-Water...3409852257932/
> https://www.instagram.com/techn_watercooling/
> 
> PS: Of course a full copper block and alu has no water contact


Hmm.. looks pretty good actually.
Although I'd be more interested to see the inside.


----------



## VSG

Got my hands, temporarily anyway, on the now EOL EK-RES X4 250 r1 reservoir:


----------



## Gabrielzm

I think B neg should get royalties on those blocks coming out







They look great but the first time I saw one of those was in Close impact. The heatkiller one coming out is one if not the most beautiful blocks out there.

On other news. Caselabs BH4 loop (temporary since reservoir need to be made yet...) up and running. Not bad for a 22 liters case. It is a joy to work with this case.





more pics and video on the log.


----------



## eucalyptus

Okay guys, I am extremely desperate for help!!

I bought over 50 of these fittings in white.

But they doesn't fit my Alphacool tubing! Both 16mm...

I have both Alphacool glass tubing and acrylic. The glass goes in, but the fitting doesn't "grip" around the tube, so I can pull it out of the fitting without problems.

Feels like they are messy to get in, but easy peasy to get out. And the acrylic tubing won't even go into the fitting









One suggested that I should change the o-rings to get a better seal. I know Monsoon's new EV2 fittings are using this method by giving different o-ring to fit all varieties of tubes.

OK, so new o-rings. But where?? I have never seen o-rings for tubing sold separately. Only G1/4 o-rings for the threads to seal.

Can anyone, please, help me out? I got this feeling again "why did you get into water cooling one more time when your first project didn't work 110%".
But the beauty of water just draws me back to buy more stuff and make new stupid projects. And now I need you, my saviors, again!


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay guys, I am extremely desperate for help!!
> 
> I bought over 50 of these fittings in white.
> 
> But they doesn't fit my Alphacool tubing! Both 16mm...
> 
> I have both Alphacool glass tubing and acrylic. The glass goes in, but the fitting doesn't "grip" around the tube, so I can pull it out of the fitting without problems.
> 
> Feels like they are messy to get in, but easy peasy to get out. And the acrylic tubing won't even go into the fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One suggested that I should change the o-rings to get a better seal. I know Monsoon's new EV2 fittings are using this method by giving different o-ring to fit all varieties of tubes.
> 
> OK, so new o-rings. But where?? I have never seen o-rings for tubing sold separately. Only G1/4 o-rings for the threads to seal.
> 
> Can anyone, please, help me out? I got this feeling again "why did you get into water cooling one more time when your first project didn't work 110%".
> But the beauty of water just draws me back to buy more stuff and make new stupid projects. And now I need you, my saviors, again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't have any experience rigid tubing but don't worry the grass is not greener on the other side. My fingers are still raw from doing compression fittings for soft tubing. Hope someone can help you out here but I'm glad that it's not only the soft tubing have troubles.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay guys, I am extremely desperate for help!!
> 
> I bought over 50 of these fittings in white.
> 
> But they doesn't fit my *Alphacool* tubing! Both 16mm...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have both Alphacool glass tubing and acrylic. The glass goes in, but the fitting doesn't "grip" around the tube, so I can pull it out of the fitting without problems.
> 
> Feels like they are messy to get in, but easy peasy to get out. And the acrylic tubing won't even go into the fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One suggested that I should change the o-rings to get a better seal. I know Monsoon's new EV2 fittings are using this method by giving different o-ring to fit all varieties of tubes.
> 
> OK, so new o-rings. But where?? I have never seen o-rings for tubing sold separately. Only G1/4 o-rings for the threads to seal.
> 
> Can anyone, please, help me out? I got this feeling again "why did you get into water cooling one more time when your first project didn't work 110%".
> But the beauty of water just draws me back to buy more stuff and make new stupid projects. And now I need you, my saviors, again!


And you are surprised because?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And you are surprised because?


Surprised and surprised, it probably depends on metric or imperial. Although, I believed the Chinese people would use metric, which they maybe do and Alphacool don't, or vice versa.

B, I know you are negative, but you are sort of a God in here, we need your positive manner and support














Don't you think switching O-rings could solve my little issue?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Surprised and surprised, it probably depends on metric or imperial. Although, I believed the Chinese people would use metric, which they maybe do and Alphacool don't, or vice versa.
> 
> *B, I know you are negative, but you are sort of a God in here*, we need your positive manner and support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't you think switching O-rings could solve my little issue?


I am neither,I just know what I know.

Alphacool fittings only work with Alphacool tube,im not entirely sure if the dims they spec are the actual sizes,they have mixed metric and imperial under the catch all term of 16mm or 14mm when they are not before.

Why did you go with Alphacool?

Who makes those fittings? They are chinese home market?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am neither,I just know what I know.
> 
> Alphacool fittings only work with Alphacool tube,im not entirely sure if the dims they spec are the actual sizes,they have mixed metric and imperial under the catch all term of 16mm or 14mm when they are not before.
> 
> Why did you go with Alphacool?
> 
> Who makes those fittings? They are chinese home market?


I was thinking of possibly switching to rigid one day, is that the case with all of them where you should buy the tube and fittings from the same company always?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I was thinking of possibly switching to rigid one day, is that the case with all of them where you should buy the tube and fittings from the same company always?


There are bending guides in my sig,there are compatibility guides in there,they also probably need updating when it comes to the lesser used tube/fittings....


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am neither,I just know what I know.
> 
> Alphacool fittings only work with Alphacool tube,im not entirely sure if the dims they spec are the actual sizes,they have mixed metric and imperial under the catch all term of 16mm or 14mm when they are not before.
> 
> Why did you go with Alphacool?
> 
> Who makes those fittings? They are chinese home market?


I am working with Alphacool, and I wanted to try the new glass tubing







But didn't want their fittings because they only are available in silver or black.

Mm, yes, those are from the Chinese market, their own design... Fittings says 16mm, and Alphacool tubes are exactly 16mm (measured them).

I still hope for the o-ring solution. I will try to call local companies if they might have. Also reached out to my contact with Alphacool to see if they have spare o-rings I could try. What do you believe B neg, do you believe it's possible to use Alphacool's o-rings with those fittings, or any other o-ring? Please please, give me some hope







Otherwise I won't be able to sleep tonight


----------



## derickwm

Teaser of what's finally coming


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am working with Alphacool, and I wanted to try the new glass tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But didn't want their fittings because they only are available in silver or black.
> 
> Mm, yes, those are from the Chinese market, their own design... Fittings says 16mm, and Alphacool tubes are exactly 16mm (measured them).
> 
> I still hope for the o-ring solution. I will try to call local companies if they might have. Also reached out to my contact with Alphacool to see if they have spare o-rings I could try. What do you believe B neg, do you believe it's possible to use Alphacool's o-rings with those fittings, or any other o-ring? Please please, give me some hope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I won't be able to sleep tonight


You could try a larger thickness o ring,YMMV tho....

Find out what the stock oring is and just up the thickness,not the ID/OD


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could try a larger thickness o ring,YMMV tho....
> 
> Find out what the stock oring is and just up the thickness,not the ID/OD


Thanks! Any tips on how to measure?







I tried and it's difficult, but sort of got it to 16/19.5mm.

And thanks again man! I know how busy you are since you are a true professional, so I deeply appreciate you taking your time. I did not know that I should add thickness and not change the ID so now I know


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Thanks! Any tips on how to measure?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried and it's difficult, but sort of got it to 16/19.5mm.
> 
> And thanks again man! I know how busy you are since you are a true professional, so I deeply appreciate you taking your time. I did not know that I should add thickness and not change the ID so now I know


Soryry,let me be more clear,the ID/OD will change slightly based on the o ring thickness but try to keep it close,if anything change the ID and not the OD.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I am neither,I just know what I know.
> 
> Alphacool fittings only work with Alphacool tube,im not entirely sure if the dims they spec are the actual sizes,they have mixed metric and imperial under the catch all term of 16mm or 14mm when they are not before.
> 
> Why did you go with Alphacool?
> 
> Who makes those fittings? They are chinese home market?
> 
> 
> 
> I am working with Alphacool, and I wanted to try the new glass tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But didn't want their fittings because they only are available in silver or black.
> 
> Mm, yes, those are from the Chinese market, their own design... Fittings says 16mm, and Alphacool tubes are exactly 16mm (measured them).
> 
> I still hope for the o-ring solution. I will try to call local companies if they might have. Also reached out to my contact with Alphacool to see if they have spare o-rings I could try. What do you believe B neg, do you believe it's possible to use Alphacool's o-rings with those fittings, or any other o-ring? Please please, give me some hope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I won't be able to sleep tonight
Click to expand...

What may help is to look up o rings online and get the size charts . . .

In metric, the cross section is exactly what the spec is . . typically 1 or 1.5mm, possibly 2mm in some cases for fittings o rings.

If you have 16 X 19, that would be a 16mm ID with a 1.5mm cross section.

You may want to look at imperial size o rings, where the cross section is actually a bit larger than the nominal spec, ie 1/16" is a bit thicker to allow for some squish in an o ring groove.

You may get better grip on the tubing with 1/16" cross section o rings if they were originally 1.5mm.

You'll also have to work out the diameter conversion, but for 16mm, 5/8" ID is the near exact imperial equivalent.

If the original o rings are 2mm, you may be able to get 3/32" cross section imperial ones in their place . . .

This is one of those situations where you study the size charts, order several options to try, and hopefully, come up with one that actually works.

Darlene


----------



## Jyve

My humble build. Started with ek predator 240 and expanded with an ek res x3 110 and a Bitspower block for my zotac amp extreme 980 ti.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hi gang, just cleaned up my loop and thought about changing to parallel. Here's a few pics, what do you think?


----------



## Trestles126

You may try McMaster car they have a lot of hardware and things like this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am working with Alphacool, and I wanted to try the new glass tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But didn't want their fittings because they only are available in silver or black.
> 
> Mm, yes, those are from the Chinese market, their own design... Fittings says 16mm, and Alphacool tubes are exactly 16mm (measured them).
> 
> I still hope for the o-ring solution. I will try to call local companies if they might have. Also reached out to my contact with Alphacool to see if they have spare o-rings I could try. What do you believe B neg, do you believe it's possible to use Alphacool's o-rings with those fittings, or any other o-ring? Please please, give me some hope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I won't be able to sleep tonight


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> You may try McMaster car they have a lot of hardware and things like this


Do they have those in Sweden?


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Do they have those in Sweden?


Ah didn't know you were overseas I'm in California. Maybe eBay orings are cheap u can buy a few different thicknesses has to be something out there. I ran all 12mm bitspower fittings with rigid bits tubing they were very hard to put in but with lube they make for a very secure fit


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hi gang, just cleaned up my loop and thought about changing to parallel. Here's a few pics, what do you think?


Rotate your CPU block 1/4 turn whichever is your Outlet from your GPU block if you do. Will make your run cleaner looking.









~Ceadder


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay guys, I am extremely desperate for help!!
> 
> I bought over 50 of these fittings in white.
> 
> But they doesn't fit my Alphacool tubing! Both 16mm...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have both Alphacool glass tubing and acrylic. The glass goes in, but the fitting doesn't "grip" around the tube, so I can pull it out of the fitting without problems.
> 
> Feels like they are messy to get in, but easy peasy to get out. And the acrylic tubing won't even go into the fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One suggested that I should change the o-rings to get a better seal. I know Monsoon's new EV2 fittings are using this method by giving different o-ring to fit all varieties of tubes.
> 
> OK, so new o-rings. But where?? I have never seen o-rings for tubing sold separately. Only G1/4 o-rings for the threads to seal.
> 
> Can anyone, please, help me out? I got this feeling again "why did you get into water cooling one more time when your first project didn't work 110%".
> But the beauty of water just draws me back to buy more stuff and make new stupid projects. And now I need you, my saviors, again!


I would imagine there is a number of things you could try, some depend on how good you want it to look. You could probably heat the end and widen it a little but getting that even may be difficult, probably could shove something inside that is cone shaped to get an even circular stretch. Could get a thicker O-ring. Could use some form of sealer on the tube to fill the gap and seal the tube down (which might require cutting to remove). Any number of possibilities even a high quality clear tape (something that will actually stick) to wrap around the end of the tube could possibly work.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> You may try McMaster car they have a lot of hardware and things like this


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Do they have those in Sweden?


Never heard of it... so I suppose not


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got my hands, temporarily anyway, on the now EOL EK-RES X4 250 r1 reservoir:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are they worth grabbing? My local store has one for sale


----------



## Dortheleus

Sadly, it's the full body cooler and can't be rotated.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Are they worth grabbing? My local store has one for sale


If you have handled larger diameter tubes with compression style endcaps, sure. I can understand why some people had issues when disassembling and reassembling this, but I am used to working with glass a lot and this was no problem for me.

It was fairly expensive before sales were stopped so see what it costs you. There is a Rev 2 in the making also.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you have handled larger diameter tubes with compression style endcaps, sure. I can understand why some people had issues when disassembling and reassembling this, but I am used to working with glass a lot and this was no problem for me.
> 
> It was fairly expensive before sales were stopped so see what it costs you. There is a Rev 2 in the making also.


That's good news, as it wasn't on the market for all that long before it was pulled.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you have handled larger diameter tubes with compression style endcaps, sure. I can understand why some people had issues when disassembling and reassembling this, but I am used to working with glass a lot and this was no problem for me.
> 
> It was fairly expensive before sales were stopped so see what it costs you. There is a Rev 2 in the making also.


It's still rather pricey here. Can get the xres d5 140 (pump incl) for the same price. Maybe I'll just wait for v2, not in a real hurry to get a new res.


----------



## DerComissar

Looks like PPC has pulled it completely, none listed there.

One left at Dazmode, on sale, but still 200 bucks:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-res-x4-250/


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I don't have any experience rigid tubing but don't worry the grass is not greener on the other side. My fingers are still raw from doing compression fittings for soft tubing. Hope someone can help you out here but I'm glad that it's not only the soft tubing have troubles.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You could try a larger thickness o ring,YMMV tho....
> 
> Find out what the stock oring is and just up the thickness,not the ID/OD


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What may help is to look up o rings online and get the size charts . . .
> 
> In metric, the cross section is exactly what the spec is . . typically 1 or 1.5mm, possibly 2mm in some cases for fittings o rings.
> 
> If you have 16 X 19, that would be a 16mm ID with a 1.5mm cross section.
> 
> You may want to look at imperial size o rings, where the cross section is actually a bit larger than the nominal spec, ie 1/16" is a bit thicker to allow for some squish in an o ring groove.
> 
> You may get better grip on the tubing with 1/16" cross section o rings if they were originally 1.5mm.
> 
> You'll also have to work out the diameter conversion, but for 16mm, 5/8" ID is the near exact imperial equivalent.
> 
> If the original o rings are 2mm, you may be able to get 3/32" cross section imperial ones in their place . . .
> 
> This is one of those situations where you study the size charts, order several options to try, and hopefully, come up with one that actually works.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> You may try McMaster car they have a lot of hardware and things like this


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I would imagine there is a number of things you could try, some depend on how good you want it to look. You could probably heat the end and widen it a little but getting that even may be difficult, probably could shove something inside that is cone shaped to get an even circular stretch. Could get a thicker O-ring. Could use some form of sealer on the tube to fill the gap and seal the tube down (which might require cutting to remove). Any number of possibilities even a high quality clear tape (something that will actually stick) to wrap around the end of the tube could possibly work.


Hey guys!









I am so grateful for your support and trying to help me! I realy appreciate it.

I went down to a local store, which I am still surprised exist in my little town







And they were really nice, like really nice, they measured everything and didn't have o-rings in stock that fit, but the made some calls and will have, hopefully, matching o-rings in on Monday














We tried to get as close to the ones I have and just add up a few tens of a millimeter in thickness







I will update on Monday how it turns out, I am really exciting to see how it goes and God bless hope it works!! Otherwise I am screwed if we can't find the right o-rings.

Cheers, and a have a lovely weekend everyone!

//Sebastian


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Are they worth grabbing? My local store has one for sale
> 
> 
> 
> If you have handled larger diameter tubes with compression style endcaps, sure. I can understand why some people had issues when disassembling and reassembling this, but I am used to working with glass a lot and this was no problem for me.
> 
> It was fairly expensive before sales were stopped so see what it costs you. There is a Rev 2 in the making also.
Click to expand...

They were slightly worth at their usual 150$ price.









It is definitely a beautiful large reservoir and was worth it to me since I prefer 80mm diameter reservoirs. There are quite a bit of things that can be done much better, for example lighting (somehow I've become a lighting fanatic







). Since the strip is located on the lower compression ring it actually sits outside of the glass. Using Mayhems X1 purple (darker coolants) only the lower 1/4th of the glass really lit up compared to the coolant which less of it lit up and quickly faded going up; but it works pretty well for lighter shades and regular distilled/clear. Compared to the AQ reservoirs they instead have the LED slots in the bottom base and shine directly up inside the reservoir which gives a better lighting effect.

My biggest issue with it, as VSG hinted, was the whole disassembling/reassembling process. It is a pain compared to other reservoirs especially compared to AQ's line if you have not worked with a similar setup before.

I would just wait for the second revision.


----------



## psycho84

Quick & Dirty


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Quick & Dirty


& sexy! That color is almost as intense as that block!


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hi gang, just cleaned up my loop and thought about changing to parallel. Here's a few pics, what do you think?


Any thoughts? Anyone?


----------



## Kenjiwing

Anyone know of any good watercooling/gaming builds for small form factor? Looking to shrink down my full tower in the near future but want support for full size gpus.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Anyone know of any good watercooling/gaming builds for small form factor? Looking to shrink down my full tower in the near future but want support for full size gpus.


check out the Caselabs bullet series. Bh4 is 22 liters only and can hold 10.5 cards. Build log here although I am using the Nano not a full length card.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1599975/the-little-big-bullitt-a-caselabs-bh4-bullet-build/240


----------



## TechN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hmm.. looks pretty good actually.
> Although I'd be more interested to see the inside.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Just a little Teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.techn.de/
> https://www.facebook.com/TechN-Water...3409852257932/
> https://www.instagram.com/techn_watercooling/
> 
> PS: Of course a full copper block and alu has no water contact


I'll take that as a compliment, thank you!









Here's a small preview of the inside and a box full of them during quality assurance:



This is actually the 980 Ti/Titan X copper plate, but the 1070/1080 is also ready. Copper channels are 0.5mm thin and performance/flow are rather competitive









And because "why not?", here's another small teaser from production to keep you guessing how it's put together:



Review samples will be ready early next week and will be sent out to reviewers asap, you'll have to wait for internals until those guys post fotos - I have to leave them something new to show as well for the reviews!


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There are bending guides in my sig,there are compatibility guides in there,they also probably need updating when it comes to the lesser used tube/fittings....


Cool thanks, I'll read the info in detail when I'm ready to attempt it.


----------



## eucalyptus

I just added a new watermark to all my photos


















Am I allowed to link to Facebook? Otherwise, send me a PM mod! I know I am not allowed to link to other forums though.

Here you can find all the pictures and my albums on my page:
https://www.facebook.com/sebastianedemalm/photos


----------



## derickwm

Soon™


----------



## Ironsmack

^DUUUDDDDEEEEE!!

DAAAAAMMMMMNNNNNNNNN


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Anyone know of any good watercooling/gaming builds for small form factor? Looking to shrink down my full tower in the near future but want support for full size gpus.


Someone mentioned the CaseLabs already, but Fractal Design has the Nano S (ITX) which has built-in support for pumps and reservoirs and multiple rad locations.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Anyone know of any good watercooling/gaming builds for small form factor? Looking to shrink down my full tower in the near future but want support for full size gpus.


There is also my case







check out the link(s) in my sig.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Tim Drake

I'm having horrible temperature problems with my graphics card.

I think I really badly need another radiator D:


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I'm having horrible temperature problems with my graphics card.
> 
> I think I really badly need another radiator D:


Not likely. Yes a 2nd or 3rd rad can increase cooling performance but you certainly can cool a cpu and gpu off a single 240mm without having "horrible temperature problems". I'm cooling a 4690k @ 4.4 and a 980ti @ 1500 on a single 240.

You'd have to be more specific on your "problems". Bad pump? Bad overall airflow? Blockage?


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Not likely. Yes a 2nd or 3rd rad can increase cooling performance but you certainly can cool a cpu and gpu off a single 240mm without having "horrible temperature problems". I'm cooling a 4690k @ 4.4 and a 980ti @ 1500 on a single 240.
> 
> You'd have to be more specific on your "problems". Bad pump? Bad overall airflow? Blockage?


I've narrowed it down to the radiator but my loop needs cleaned too.

My CPU has been perfectly fine for temps and nothing has changed but because water goes from the CPU straight to the GPU, the GPU gets hot water and it spawns a loop where temps only increase as my entire rig gets warmer due to this cycle.

When I launch a game, for the first 3-5 minutes, my GPU sits fine at 46-50c even when overvolted but goes all the way up to 58c when overvolted.

I need a mid point for the water from the CPU to get cooled before it reaches the GPU.

Also, you don't have anywhere near a 140w TDP CPU that is also overclocked lol


----------



## rolldog

I bought multiple sizes and colors of o-rings on Etsy. Apparently, some people make bracelets and necklaces out of them.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I've narrowed it down to the radiator but my loop needs cleaned too.
> 
> My CPU has been perfectly fine for temps and nothing has changed but because water goes from the CPU straight to the GPU, the GPU gets hot water and it spawns a loop where temps only increase as my entire rig gets warmer due to this cycle.
> 
> When I launch a game, for the first 3-5 minutes, my GPU sits fine at 46-50c even when overvolted but goes all the way up to 58c when overvolted.
> 
> I need a mid point for the water from the CPU to get cooled before it reaches the GPU.
> 
> Also, you don't have anywhere near a 140w TDP CPU that is also overclocked lol


Possible contact issue with block and thermal grease the water temp stays pretty consistent through out loop. Another rad is always good but that could be the culprit to have such a different spike. I would bet if you ran the water thru the gpu first the results would be similar


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I've narrowed it down to the radiator but my loop needs cleaned too.
> 
> My CPU has been perfectly fine for temps and nothing has changed but because water goes from the CPU straight to the GPU, the GPU gets hot water and it spawns a loop where temps only increase as my entire rig gets warmer due to this cycle.
> 
> When I launch a game, for the first 3-5 minutes, my GPU sits fine at 46-50c even when overvolted but goes all the way up to 58c when overvolted.
> 
> I need a mid point for the water from the CPU to get cooled before it reaches the GPU.
> 
> Also, you don't have anywhere near a 140w TDP CPU that is also overclocked lol


Nope. That is incorrect. Water temp across the loop is at ~equilibrium. Even if you set up temp probes at the in and out of one radiator you will only see very small difference in water temp. It will make no difference to have a radiator between the cpu and gpu or the same amount of rads after the cpu and gpu. Not at all.

If you want help from people around here be more specific and tell us about your loop components, pump, rads, case, fans and so on. Describe your problem. What are horrible temps? You said nothing changed but suddenly you have horrible temps? If you don't want help then that is fine go forward and do what you want. But you are working on wrong assumptions by your post. Just mine two cents and please don't take this as offensive because it certainly is not my intention.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nope. That is incorrect. Water temp across the loop is at ~equilibrium. Even if you set up temp probes at the in and out of one radiator you will only see very small difference in water temp. It will make no difference to have a radiator between the cpu and gpu or the same amount of rads after the cpu and gpu. Not at all.
> 
> If you want help from people around here be more specific and tell us about your loop components, pump, rads, case, fans and so on. Describe your problem. What are horrible temps? You said nothing changed but suddenly you have horrible temps? If you don't want help then that is fine go forward and do what you want. But you are working on wrong assumptions by your post. Just mine two cents and please don't take this as offensive because it certainly is not my intention.


I have a 5960X and a Titan X with an expanded Swiftech H320 (original one) using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and the stock rad with NB E-Loops running at 7v.

I think I have plasticizer in my loop as when I expanded it previously, the was tiny bit of stuff on the fill port fitting, inside the block fittings and tons inside the tubing.

My GPU when I first hooked up my loop would only hit 50c after long gaming but now it has started hitting up to 58c after 3-4 days of running the loop.

The radiator gets warm, gpu block gets extremely hot (because hybrid block and titan x) (i have an alphacool nexxxos waterblock btw) but the only real worrying part is that the tubing feels warm to the touch and I believe the increased temperatures and increasing the amount of plasticizer in the loop but i'm to doubt that since people tell me the tubing i replaced it with shouldn't have that issue.

Could it be a problem of something growing or something clogging because I really have no clue as to what the problem is.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I have a 5960X and a Titan X with an expanded Swiftech H320 (original one) using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and the stock rad with NB E-Loops running at 7v.
> 
> I think I have plasticizer in my loop as when I expanded it previously, the was tiny bit of stuff on the fill port fitting, inside the block fittings and tons inside the tubing.
> 
> My GPU when I first hooked up my loop would only hit 50c after long gaming but now it has started hitting up to 58c after 3-4 days of running the loop.
> 
> The radiator gets warm, gpu block gets extremely hot (because hybrid block and titan x) (i have an alphacool nexxxos waterblock btw) but the only real worrying part is that the tubing feels warm to the touch and I believe the increased temperatures and increasing the amount of plasticizer in the loop but i'm to doubt that since people tell me the tubing i replaced it with shouldn't have that issue.
> 
> Could it be a problem of something growing or something clogging because I really have no clue as to what the problem is.


Plasticizer from the original tubes Swiftech uses is definitely a possibility. The original tubes they used to use on those kits were plagued with palsticizer. The only way to known is to open the blocks and clean it. CPU block is the ACOOL nexxos and the GPU block? Maybe a pic of the loop will help.

edit - be aware that Alphacool GPU blocks are extremely restrictive...You mention an hybrid block for the titanX so I am not sure which block it is...


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Plasticizer from the original tubes Swiftech uses is definitely a possibility. The original tubes they used to use on those kits were plagued with palsticizer. The only way to known is to open the blocks and clean it. CPU block is the ACOOL nexxos and the GPU block? Maybe a pic of the loop will help.
> 
> edit - be aware that Alphacool GPU blocks are extremely restrictive...You mention an hybrid block for the titanX so I am not sure which block it is...


Yes, it's the alphacool nexxos GPU block and the H320 block









I knew it was restrictive but I didn't think it'd mean that much in this kind of loop.

Does that mean I'm going to have to add a pump? Running at 100% pump speed seems to be worse for the performance rather than running auto speeds but I haven't properly tested it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I have a 5960X and a Titan X with an expanded Swiftech H320 (original one) using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and the stock rad with NB E-Loops running at 7v.
> 
> I think I have plasticizer in my loop as when I expanded it previously, the was tiny bit of stuff on the fill port fitting, inside the block fittings and tons inside the tubing.
> 
> My GPU when I first hooked up my loop would only hit 50c after long gaming but now it has started hitting up to 58c after 3-4 days of running the loop.
> 
> The radiator gets warm, gpu block gets extremely hot (because hybrid block and titan x) (i have an alphacool nexxxos waterblock btw) but the only real worrying part is that the tubing feels warm to the touch and I believe the increased temperatures and increasing the amount of plasticizer in the loop but i'm to doubt that since people tell me the tubing i replaced it with shouldn't have that issue.
> 
> Could it be a problem of something growing or something clogging because I really have no clue as to what the problem is.


Sounds like blockage... and all soft tube has plasticizer issues at at some point,just some faster than others...

What is the pump rated for?


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds like blockage... and all soft tube has plasticizer issues at at some point,just some faster than others...
> 
> What is the pump rated for?


Not sure, I think my friend found out that it's 5.4w or some sorts but i'm not 100% sure on anything.

How would you recommend cleaning the loop to undo any blockages


----------



## derickwm

All done finally!





































MOAR


----------



## Gabrielzm

Beautiful shots Derick









@Tim Drake it does sound like blockage. Open up both blocks and clean it up. My bet is you will find tons of debris and black gunk on the cpu block. I have tons of experience with the original h220 kit. Let's say the good thing about it is that put me on the path of custom loops since after around 5 kits RMAs and open up the block 10 or 20 times I gave up and start doing custom loops. Pump is not very high in pressure to start with and coupled with a Alphacool GPU block is one of the worse combinations possible. Let's see if I find some of my old pics of it...



this was one of the RMA kits without any use besides the Swiftech in house testing.... After this one I boxed the damn thing and never bothered open up again.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Beautiful shots Derick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Tim Drake it does sound like blockage. Open up both blocks and clean it up. My bet is you will find tons of debris and black gunk on the cpu block. I have tons of experience with the original h220 kit. Let's say the good thing about it is that put me on the path of custom loops since after around 5 kits RMAs and open up the block 10 or 20 times I gave up and start doing custom loops. Pump is not very high in pressure to start with and coupled with a Alphacool GPU block is one of the worse combinations possible. Let's see if I find some of my old pics of it...


Well I don't want any other blocks and I don't want full custom so it's just an optimization process atm lol

Also, I tried to open to the pump before but I couldn't get the top of the block off, any ideas how to?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Well I don't want any other blocks and I don't want full custom so it's just an optimization process atm lol


sure thing I am not saying otherwise...Just giving you some of my background on those kits and the potential bad interaction of the kit with your block. Some plasticizer it would be all it takes to finish off your head pressure which I am guessing is right at the margin of working ok to start with it...


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> sure thing I am not saying otherwise...Just giving you some of my background on those kits and the potential bad interaction of the kit with your block. Some plasticizer it would be all it takes to finish off your head pressure which I am guessing is right at the margin of working ok to start with it...


Yeah. How do I gain access to the pump to give it a good cleaning? I'll use q tips for the fittings but how do I get in to the pump as that is probably he issue tbh


----------



## Jyve

He beat me to it. The water equalizing. My loop is the same way. Spa directly to gpu and I have no issues. Ran heaven for quite a stretch.

*edit*

Another option tube wise would be ek's zmt 'rubber' tubing. I guess since it isn't made of plastic you don't get the plastisizer problem.

As for not going full custom, why not? By expanding an expandable AIO it's basically the same thing. At least with custom you get to choose your parts.

My loop is an expanded ek predator 240. It's custom enough for me. Good parts. The tubing aesthetically is a matter of opinion but I dig it.

Do you use dye in your loop?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I've narrowed it down to the radiator but my loop needs cleaned too.
> 
> My CPU has been perfectly fine for temps and nothing has changed but because water goes from the CPU straight to the GPU, the GPU gets hot water and it spawns a loop where temps only increase as my entire rig gets warmer due to this cycle.
> 
> When I launch a game, for the first 3-5 minutes, my GPU sits fine at 46-50c even when overvolted but goes all the way up to 58c when overvolted.
> 
> I need a mid point for the water from the CPU to get cooled before it reaches the GPU.
> 
> Also, you don't have anywhere near a 140w TDP CPU that is also overclocked lol


Like Trestles said. If you have the rad between the cpu and gpu you will see 1-2c difference at max.

Loop order makes practically no difference.

Can you give some more info?
Ambient temp, water temp, fan types/speeds?

How clean are the blocks? Did you clean the rad prior to building the loop?

And indeed, block contact could also be the problem.

My 360 rad keeps my gpu below 50 with a overclock. R9 290 uses around 300w @ 1250mhz and my cpu must be close to 250w @ 4.9ghz

Edit:
I didn't notice there were more replys already, just out of bed









Reading those my money is on blockage for sure. Is either the cpu, gpu or both.

Open those up and take out the good old (soft) toothbrush.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Like Trestles said. If you have the rad between the cpu and gpu you will see 1-2c difference at max.
> 
> Loop order makes practically no difference.
> 
> Can you give some more info?
> Ambient temp, water temp, fan types/speeds?
> 
> How clean are the blocks? Did you clean the rad prior to building the loop?
> 
> And indeed, block contact could also be the problem.
> 
> My 360 rad keeps my gpu below 50 with a overclock. R9 290 uses around 300w @ 1250mhz and my cpu must be close to 250w @ 4.9ghz
> 
> Edit:
> I didn't notice there were more replys already, just out of bed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reading those my money is on blockage for sure. Is either the cpu, gpu or both.
> 
> Open those up and take out the good old (soft) toothbrush.


If you're getting those kind of temps then perhaps I'm getting close to the correct temps as I'm sure that's close to my power draw.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> If you're getting those kind of temps then perhaps I'm getting close to the correct temps as I'm sure that's close to my power draw.


I still think you should check the block. You telling the block feels hot is concerning me. If contact is good it shouldnt feel much warmer than the gpu temp.

What is the problem? just take that block apart









We'll see how my temps are when I add the 420 to the loop.

Also if you do take the loop apart I can recommend you add a temp sensor. So much better than using an IR


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I still think you should check the block. You telling the block feels hot is concerning me. If contact is good it shouldnt feel much warmer than the gpu temp.
> 
> What is the problem? just take that block apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll see how my temps are when I add the 420 to the loop.
> 
> Also if you do take the loop apart I can recommend you add a temp sensor. So much better than using an IR


1. The GPU block is fine as I installed it only but 2 weeks ago but the rest of the loop (besides tubing) has been running for 2 years plus.

2. I don't know how to add a temp sensor.

3. The block feels hot because when overvolted/overclocked, the vrms and memory get pretty darn hot and it isn't a full cover like EK, it uses thermal transfer from the uni block for the core to cool the rest.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I still think you should check the block. You telling the block feels hot is concerning me. If contact is good it shouldnt feel much warmer than the gpu temp.
> 
> What is the problem? just take that block apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll see how my temps are when I add the 420 to the loop.
> 
> Also if you do take the loop apart I can recommend you add a temp sensor. So much better than using an IR


The contact is good otherwise the heat would not be transferred to the block to make it hot in the first place.
The problem lies in getting that heat away from it.

Strip the cpu block and gpu block and check for blockages,ramp the fan speed up too..also look at general case ventilation if you are using a unisink.


----------



## BURGER4life

Somehow that res looks a little bit lost


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/poIlg3ivj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnPSMuSnj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnzm6eeKj

https://imageshack.com/i/plpkltvEj

https://imageshack.com/i/pn91OI42j





First time doing rigid tubing, case is Caselabs BH7.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I'd rather not take the whole darn GPU block apart because that's the newest item in the loop and also most time consuming part.
> 
> But it seems I have no choice.
> 
> Could you tell me hot to access the pump in the H320 block so I can clean that block as well as the pump?


No experience with it myself but there should be people here who can help you with that.

You might just start with the cpu block then. How long has it been used?

Quick Google search gave me this:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tH3YVSksQmo

BTW:
Make pictures while you are at it. I am always hungry.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pnzm6eeKj
> 
> First time doing rigid tubing, case is Caselabs BH7.


Nice, good job.
I like the contrast of the dark with the nick(?) rigid.

Also first time for me seeing the ION reservoir in action.
How does it look in person?


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> No experience with it myself but there should be people here who can help you with that.
> 
> You might just start with the cpu block then. How long has it been used?
> 
> Quick Google search gave me this:
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tH3YVSksQmo


I've seen that but I have no spudger


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> No experience with it myself but there should be people here who can help you with that.
> 
> You might just start with the cpu block then. How long has it been used?
> 
> Quick Google search gave me this:
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tH3YVSksQmo
> 
> BTW:
> Make pictures while you are at it. I am always hungry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, good job.
> I like the contrast of the dark with the nick(?) rigid.
> 
> Also first time for me seeing the ION reservoir in action.
> How does it look in person?


Looks great although i have some trapped air just now, making a bit of a racket, should be fine after that.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Looks great although i have some trapped air just now, making a bit of a racket, should be fine after that.


Looks really good. That nickel/brass tubing is hawt. Got me thinking...







...that's a scary thought.


----------



## khemist

Thanks, i only wish i had black memory to ft in more.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> No experience with it myself but there should be people here who can help you with that.
> 
> You might just start with the cpu block then. How long has it been used?
> 
> BTW:
> Make pictures while you are at it. I am always hungry.


Not sure but it's been over 2 years I think. I've cleaned the block 2-3 times since then but the pump or fittings have never been cleaned.

I already took pictures a while ago, regardless of what others think, I think it looks really pretty to me









https://imgur.com/a/8njUG


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Thanks, i only wish i had black memory to ft in more.


Paint it.







Color correct that...









Gonna paint my I/O shield on my EVGA Z170 Classy today to match this.



http://www.overclock.net/t/1598316/sponsored-classified-demon-watercooled-cm-mastercase-5-pro-evga-z170-classified-amd-fury-x/90#post_25331593


----------



## guitarhero23

*Finally Finished! This case sure was funky.*





All here


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Thanks, i only wish i had black memory to ft in more.


g.skill makes some very reasonably priced memory in Black that you could scoop up if you have the funds.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> g.skill makes some very reasonably priced memory in Black that you could scoop up if you have the funds.


Thanks, not really looking to spend anymore, i've been spending too much lately!.


----------



## Sazexa

Trying to squeeze two EK SE 360's (360x26mm) was pretty tough. But, I found a way to make it happen in the Evolv ATX. lol


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Trying to squeeze two EK SE 360's (360x26mm) was pretty tough. But, I found a way to make it happen in the Evolv ATX. lol


Good luck with maintenance.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good luck with maintenance.


Ehhh, shouldn't be too bad. My previous build was an even tighter/hard to work in, fully watercooled M1. This will be like a walk in the park compared to that.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Ehhh, shouldn't be too bad. My previous build was an even tighter/hard to work in, fully watercooled M1. This will be like a walk in the park compared to that.


I know the feeling.

A few weeks ago I just went out and bought a Metro DataVac to do my dusting. Thing works like a champ.



This is not my video though but it does show how my experience with it is.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I know the feeling.
> 
> A few weeks ago I just went out and bought a Metro DataVac to do my dusting. Thing works like a champ.
> 
> 
> 
> This is not my video though but it does show how my experience with it is.


Holy crap! The PC didn't even look that bad, at least from my laptop screen! LOL

How much is that little thing, I'll buy one right now!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Holy crap! The PC didn't even look that bad, at least from my laptop screen! LOL
> 
> How much is that little thing, I'll buy one right now!


it was on sale on amazon for 58 bucks or something like that. They launch a new model and I guess vendors are taking out the old stock. Regular price is around 110... Just got one


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it was on sale on amazon for 58 bucks or something like that. They launch a new model and I guess vendors are taking out the old stock. Regular price is around 110... Just got one


*Vigorously grabs debit card from wallet*


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it was on sale on amazon for 58 bucks or something like that. They launch a new model and I guess vendors are taking out the old stock. Regular price is around 110... Just got one


That can't be in us dollars. I bought one years ago and though I don't remember how much I don't think it was that much.

Rep'd for another DataVac owner though. One of the best purchases I've made yet. Bye bye canned air. Wish I could find the little attachments though


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Holy crap! The PC didn't even look that bad, at least from my laptop screen! LOL
> 
> How much is that little thing, I'll buy one right now!


I payed €100 for it but you might be able to grab it cheaper from the bay.
Where are you located?

*Do note*:
Don't let the fans spin when you blow this thing at them. You'll wear out the bearing faster then blowing out the dust.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it was on sale on amazon for 58 bucks or something like that. They launch a new model and I guess vendors are taking out the old stock. Regular price is around 110... Just got one


Wish I could've bought it from amazon, haha.

Although the €100 I paid for it is fine considering the power it has compared to canned air.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> That can't be in us dollars. I bought one years ago and though I don't remember how much I don't think it was that much.
> 
> Rep'd for another DataVac owner though. One of the best purchases I've made yet. Bye bye canned air. Wish I could find the little attachments though


I greed you fellow DataVac lover.









Totally agree.
Most air cans also have low pressure. A while ago I found one that actually had like 9 bar I thought (can't recall).
Normally I pay around €10 for a can and I can hardly clean my pc 2 times with it.

Here is it on ebay.

I have the small attachments but I hardly use them. I'd rather just go full on.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I payed €100 for it but you might be able to grab it cheaper from the bay.
> Where are you located?
> 
> *Do note*:
> Don't let the fans spin when you blow this thing at them. You'll wear out the bearing faster then blowing out the dust.


Located in the USA. And thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to remember that. At $25/fan, I'd rather not destroy them lol


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I payed €100 for it but you might be able to grab it cheaper from the bay.
> Where are you located?
> 
> *Do note*:
> Don't let the fans spin when you blow this thing at them. You'll wear out the bearing faster then blowing out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I could've bought it from amazon, haha.
> 
> Although the €100 I paid for it is fine considering the power it has compared to canned air.
> I greed you fellow DataVac lover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally agree.
> Most air cans also have low pressure. A while ago I found one that actually had like 9 bar I thought (can't recall).
> Normally I pay around €10 for a can and I can hardly clean my pc 2 times with it.
> 
> Here is it on ebay.
> 
> I have the small attachments but I hardly use them. I'd rather just go full on.


Yeah that's what I do. The little attachment that tapers at the end. The little brush would come in handy though if I could find it. I think I got mine on amazon but it was so long ago I don't remember how much I paid.

Been tempted to get the pro as its a vacuum too. A vac and small brush might come in handy for sacking little dust bunnies out of the tight corners and nooks.


----------



## jtom320

Can someone recomend a program that can read my temperature sensor? It does not seem to be in hwinfo.

For reference I have a Bitspower sensor plugged into my res. Sensor is plugged into my Maximus VIII Gene.

You can't see either part in this pic but it's the inlet port on the EK res to the bottom temp sensor on the motherboard.

Sorry about the dumb question I've just never had a temperature sensor actually installed in a loop before. This is my third.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Yeah that's what I do. The little attachment that tapers at the end. The little brush would come in handy though if I could find it. I think I got mine on amazon but it was so long ago I don't remember how much I paid.
> 
> Been tempted to get the pro as its a vacuum too. A vac and small brush might come in handy for sacking little dust bunnies out of the tight corners and nooks.


I know right.

Some time ago I found this hiding behind the HDD cage in my case:











*On the side note:*

Still waiting on the parts to do my build in the Primo. Looks like the fittings (Bitspower Enhance Multi-Link) are not in stock.


I plan to use the red ones with clear rigid and coolant.
Should I switch to whites and run Mayhems Pastel Red?


I am not sure what will look better.
My case is the red primo:


My doubt is the red coolant will be too much red.
What do you guys think?


----------



## Jyve

If you're insistent on using pastel dye then with that much red inside the case I'd probably go black fittings with white dye. That might look pretty good.

*edit* not sure if they make such a thing but what about a solid black acrylic tubing? Is there even such a thing?


----------



## LiquidHaus

built a system for my girlfriend, figured i'd use some parts I had sitting around to watercool it.



and then swapped out my four 7970s for a Zotac 1070. anyone know if someone will make blocks for them?



Derrick, i'm praying







:thumb:


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> built a system for my girlfriend, figured i'd use some parts I had sitting around to watercool it.
> 
> 
> 
> and then swapped out my four 7970s for a Zotac 1070. anyone know if someone will make blocks for them?
> 
> 
> 
> Derrick, i'm praying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:


They'll make blocks for 1070s but I don't know if I'd hold my breath for a zotac one. I have a 980ti amp extreme and just recently Bitspower made a block for it. Only one I know of.

Also nice example of black rigid tubing without dye.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> If you're insistent on using pastel dye then with that much red inside the case I'd probably go black fittings with white dye. That might look pretty good.
> 
> *edit* not sure if they make such a thing but what about a solid black acrylic tubing? Is there even such a thing?


Thought about Ice White.
Decisions....

I think I will just wait it out and stick with red fittings and clear/clear.

Can always try die later on then.
Easier then changing fittings/tubing later.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Thought about Ice White.
> Decisions....
> 
> I think I will just wait it out and stick with red fittings and clear/clear.
> 
> Can always try die later on then.
> Easier then changing fittings/tubing later.


White tubing would look good too. Black fittings.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just won a case thanks to ProClockers, it's an Anidees AI7 and can't wait to get a build in it:


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> White tubing would look good too. Black fittings.


I know, black/white is timeless.

But I actually went with the red primo because I currently have g.skill tridentx ram with the red accents and planning to switch to a Maximus hero based platform in the near future.

That said I still prefer clear over colored because of the staning.

I thank you for the input though








I'm sure the blood red fittings will look splendid.

Just got a message from the store that the order has been approved. Should be at my home tomorrow.

Rigid bending here we come.








Any last tips before I screw my bends up? First timer here.


----------



## eucalyptus

UPDATE!!

For you guys who helped me last week with the O-ring issue.

As I said I went to a local store and they were really nice. They ordered a few samples which I tried today.

And 15.0 x 2.0mm O-rings seems to fit perfectly. I also got 15.0 x 2.5mm but they didn't even fit the fitting









So now I ordered 150 pieces.

They grip a lot better than the original ones. I really have to use some force to draw/pull the tubing out with the lock collar on.


----------



## Benjiw

Hi guys, can people with hard tubing show me how they connect their cpu to gpu? The reason I ask is I tried to do mine and failed a lot of times and ran out of tubes so using soft tubing for now on that connection. I bent all my tubing by hand and eye.



Thats my loop so far.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hi guys, can people with hard tubing show me how they connect their cpu to gpu? The reason I ask is I tried to do mine and failed a lot of times and ran out of tubes so using soft tubing for now on that connection. I bent all my tubing by hand and eye.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats my loop so far.


What do you mean, "How" ?

TCO


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pn9uzjIMj



https://imageshack.com/i/podtYBTQj

https://imageshack.com/i/poBk9kwMj

Lighting sorted.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What do you mean, "How" ?
> 
> TCO


I'm not sure how I can expand further on that, urm, with hardline tubing PETG, Copper, Acrylic, how it's bent, and so on?


----------



## Blze001

You guys are really making me want to try water cooling, but good lord is it complex.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> They'll make blocks for 1070s but I don't know if I'd hold my breath for a zotac one. I have a 980ti amp extreme and just recently Bitspower made a block for it. Only one I know of.
> 
> Also nice example of black rigid tubing without dye.


there's a german dude on the web at liquid ecstasy that makes blocks for the 980ti version, here's hoping he'll have something out for the 1070/1080.

and yeah, my system was originally all black and white. clear acrylic with ice dragon and then black acrylic as well.

here it was before I swapped cards


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm not sure how I can expand further on that, urm, with hardline tubing PETG, Copper, Acrylic, how it's bent, and so on?


I am just having a hard time reading your question, being that you already stated you have hand bent everything in your build already, but stating that trying to bend the tube from the cpu to the gpu was a tad hard....

Are you needing mandrels, or some other type of mechanical assistance bending that specific tube?

In your pictures, I appears to be an almost perfect 90degree south angle to the gpu inlet you have chosen.









TCO


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> You guys are really making me want to try water cooling, but good lord is it complex.


Actually it's not, especially if you start with a kit. You will be surprised how much more comfortable with it you'll be after installing a kit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm not sure how I can expand further on that, urm, with hardline tubing PETG, Copper, Acrylic, how it's bent, and so on?


Check my sig.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am just having a hard time reading your question, being that you already stated you have hand bent everything in your build already, but stating that trying to bend the tube from the cpu to the gpu was a tad hard....
> 
> Are you needing mandrels, or some other type of mechanical assistance bending that specific tube?
> 
> In your pictures, I appears to be an almost perfect 90degree south angle to the gpu inlet you have chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I tried to keep the line straight with an inward 90 degree bend then kink the tube slightly to the left to line up with the gpu but there isn't enough space, I'm trying to avoid diagonal routes with the tube where possible.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I tried to keep the line straight with an inward 90 degree bend then kink the tube slightly to the left to line up with the gpu but there isn't enough space, I'm trying to avoid diagonal routes with the tube where possible.


I know the build isn't in front of me, but I would use 2 x Straight fittings on the gpu and cpu, and bend the tube in a 90 degree angle to mate each fitting.

TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I tried to keep the line straight with an inward 90 degree bend then kink the tube slightly to the left to line up with the gpu but there isn't enough space, I'm trying to avoid diagonal routes with the tube where possible.


isn't enough space for the 90 or the kink to the side? I've ran into q similar issue (i think) and i ended up having to do my offset and then bend the 90° and i was able to get a little closer. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding though. Sometimes it just takes several wasted tubes before you nail it. I'll tell you what my grandpa says... "Get it on up in there boiiiii"


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> You guys are really making me want to try water cooling, but good lord is it complex.


it only seems complicated because you have not done it but I think it's easier than it looks. The cost associated with it hurts sometimes though because there is always that accessory that you want to install or that bling that will make your loop better, etc.

Starting with the AIO units is a good start, the corsair 2x120mm cpu cooler is really good. There are some GPU AIO out there also. That route would cost less and save a ton of time if your case has the room and the hoses are long enough for your case.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It would be recommended to have a second to push through all those blocks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I think he will be alright even with serial,I could go on with examples but I have said it so often....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/04/26/pump-setup-series-vs-parallel/
> 
> Parallel blocks is fine. Parallel pumps is a bad idea. Essentially you loose the redundancy of serial pumps in case of failure of one of the pumps. You most likely will be fine with one pump. Remember efficiency of these pumps increase a lot when the flow is small.


Thanks guys. I found a way to hide a 2nd pump in the pedestal and running it in series. One thing though, it is normal to have the RPMs continue on a pump that is turned off since it is actually being spun by the other D5 right?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I know the build isn't in front of me, but I would use 2 x Straight fittings on the gpu and cpu, and bend the tube in a 90 degree angle to mate each fitting.
> 
> TCO


They don't line up to do a straight 90 degree bend though, it requires like a 90 degree kink, the best way I can describe it is like your last build you did for one of your clients TCO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> isn't enough space for the 90 or the kink to the side? I've ran into q similar issue (i think) and i ended up having to do my offset and then bend the 90° and i was able to get a little closer. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding though. Sometimes it just takes several wasted tubes before you nail it. I'll tell you what my grandpa says... "Get it on up in there boiiiii"


Sounds very similar, the port on the gpu is like 25mm to the left of the tube if I did a straight 90, so I tried to kink it to the left after the 90 but it looked bad as there wasn't enough tube. The kink I'm talking about is like the one on the front rad.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They don't line up to do a straight 90 degree bend though, it requires like a 90 degree kink, the best way I can describe it is like your last build you did for one of your clients TCO.
> Sounds very similar, the port on the gpu is like 25mm to the left of the tube if I did a straight 90, so I tried to kink it to the left after the 90 but it looked bad as there wasn't enough tube. The kink I'm talking about is like the one on the front rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The Best way I can describe the bend you need would be the terminology "Slight of Hand"

What I did was heat the tube in the middle around a 5" piece and put one end of the tube into the Port of the CPU, then bent the tube over the port on the gpu while the tube was cooling. The actual lenght of tubing that was used was longer than needed that way I could trim either side of the tube after it cooled to fit the correct length of the space inbetween the two ports. So I started with a 9" piece of tubing, but the length that was actually needed was more like 7"




So imagine on the second picture that when I had first bent the tube, the tube actually was in front of the CSQ block. Then I trimmed the part of the tube that was inserted into the cpu inlet/outlet to shorten the tube, but actually be above the port on the GPU block.

TCO


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Actually it's not, especially if you start with a kit. You will be surprised how much more comfortable with it you'll be after installing a kit.


Unfortunately, I'd pretty much have to start with custom stuff since I have such a tiny case.









I've measured and individual parts will fit (probably), but there's very little room for hoses and such. I was cured of my ATX case usage when I started living in small apartments with frequent moves.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Best way I can describe the bend you need would be the terminology "Slight of Hand"
> 
> What I did was heat the tube in the middle around a 5" piece and put one end of the tube into the Port of the CPU, then bent the tube over the port on the gpu while the tube was cooling. The actual lenght of tubing that was used was longer than needed that way I could trim either side of the tube after it cooled to fit the correct length of the space inbetween the two ports. So I started with a 9" piece of tubing, but the length that was actually needed was more like 7"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So imagine on the second picture that when I had first bent the tube, the tube actually was in front of the CSQ block. Then I trimmed the part of the tube that was inserted into the cpu inlet/outlet to shorten the tube, but actually be above the port on the GPU block.
> 
> TCO


I'll give it a go in a few months time when I have more tubing, never thought of doing it that way I normally bend it out side the case after eyeball measuring it up, do you think it will look ok with the other bends I have? Sorry if the pics are crappy I don't have my DSLR here at my parent's place.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'll give it a go in a few months time when I have more tubing, never thought of doing it that way I normally bend it out side the case after eyeball measuring it up, *do you think it will look ok with the other bends I have*? Sorry if the pics are crappy I don't have my DSLR here at my parent's place.


There is a point in the build that you cannot make something look exactly as you originally intended. The purpose of the build and a watercooled loop is to connect and leak test. In this case, the way you have your loop laid out, it appears you have very few options. Either choice you take will need the tube being slightly bent in order to connect and create a seal.

TCO


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Best way I can describe the bend you need would be the terminology "Slight of Hand"
> 
> What I did was heat the tube in the middle around a 5" piece and put one end of the tube into the Port of the CPU, then bent the tube over the port on the gpu while the tube was cooling. The actual lenght of tubing that was used was longer than needed that way I could trim either side of the tube after it cooled to fit the correct length of the space inbetween the two ports. So I started with a 9" piece of tubing, but the length that was actually needed was more like 7"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So imagine on the second picture that when I had first bent the tube, the tube actually was in front of the CSQ block. Then I trimmed the part of the tube that was inserted into the cpu inlet/outlet to shorten the tube, but actually be above the port on the GPU block.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> I'll give it a go in a few months time when I have more tubing, never thought of doing it that way I normally bend it out side the case after eyeball measuring it up, do you think it will look ok with the other bends I have? Sorry if the pics are crappy I don't have my DSLR here at my parent's place.
Click to expand...

Would something like this work for you?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> Unfortunately, I'd pretty much have to start with custom stuff since I have such a tiny case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've measured and individual parts will fit (probably), but there's very little room for hoses and such. I was cured of my ATX case usage when I started living in small apartments with frequent moves.


Buy another case first.
I am sure your WC will grow to be more expensive than your case, certainly when you have a cheaper case.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Would something like this work for you?


That's actually pretty amazing. What is the offset?

TCO


----------



## khemist

http://cdn.overclock.net/1/1d/1db043db_2013-05-0900.44.15.jpeg

Someone using one here.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey guys quick question.. im a few years behind the time and im considering doing a microatx build.

How effective is cooling these days? It looks like at most I could do a slim 240 and a single 120 with the case I want to use.. do you think this would be effective enough for mobo/gpu (prob a 1080) cooling with overclocks on both? Right now I run everything through a single 480 with no issues.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's actually pretty amazing. What is the offset?
> 
> TCO


It looks like about 15 mm offset to me. Maybe even less (10 mm):

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_167&products_id=468


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm not sure how I can expand further on that, urm, with hardline tubing PETG, Copper, Acrylic, how it's bent, and so on?


Check my sig.

Also,new log!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1605575/caselabs-bh4-milspec-ii/0_20


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Check my sig.
> 
> Also,new log!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1605575/caselabs-bh4-milspec-ii/0_20


I've bent all the other tubes and fitted them, they're all fine its just this one last bend doing my noggin in lol.


----------



## wizardbro

"ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB - 8x Way Block "
Anyone used these before? I want to use all DC fans on it and hook it up to my asus mobo. The bios has a nice dc/pwm toggle for fan control on each header.
Would the pcb block work with all DC fans though?

Also subbed b.neg


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> 
> "ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB - 8x Way Block "
> Anyone used these before? I want to use all DC fans on it and hook it up to my asus mobo. The bios has a nice dc/pwm toggle for fan control on each header.
> Would the pcb block work with all DC fans though?
> 
> Also subbed b.neg


I wouldn't power all those fans off one mobo header....it wont end well.

Thanks for the sub too!


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wouldn't power all those fans off one mobo header....it wont end well.
> 
> Thanks for the sub too!


I'm only using 6 fans, sp120qe. Each draw 0.08A. Don't fan headers handle up to 1A?


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> I'm only using 6 fans, sp120qe. Each draw 0.08A. Don't fan headers handle up to 1A?


Isn't the start-up current for those fans something like .25 Amps though?


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Isn't the start-up current for those fans something like .25 Amps though?


No idea about the startup current, but you have a point there. I'll have the fans go 3 per header with another fan splitter then.


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Buy another case first.
> I am sure your WC will grow to be more expensive than your case, certainly when you have a cheaper case.


I'm keeping an eye out for a potential replacement, but I might have to see what all I can do with this current case, any larger and it wont fit on my desk.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> I'm keeping an eye out for a potential replacement, but I might have to see what all I can do with this current case, any larger and it wont fit on my desk.


Get a new desk...
That's what I did.

Funny thing is I then found out that my current case is too high with the radiator on top (externally). So in turn that was then the reason to get another case again.









*To all*.

I just received my order from my local WC store.
Rigid tubes, BP fittings (blood red), cutting tool, bending tool, bending tube, pump mount.... etc.

And then comes the thing that concerns me here. I accidentally bought 4 bottles of Mayhems X1 Clear concentrate to mix with distilled (only needed 2).
This is what I found in the package.











Not very clear now, is it?
Any idea what's up with those three? The colored once are made in may (same date all 3) and the clear one is older.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/poRW4Tsvj


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Get a new desk...
> That's what I did.
> 
> Funny thing is I then found out that my current case is too high with the radiator on top (externally). So in turn that was then the reason to get another case again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *To all*.
> 
> I just received my order from my local WC store.
> Rigid tubes, BP fittings (blood red), cutting tool, bending tool, bending tube, pump mount.... etc.
> 
> And then comes the thing that concerns me here. I accidentally bought 4 bottles of Mayhems X1 Clear concentrate to mix with distilled.
> This is what I found in the package.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not very clear now, is it?
> Any idea what's up with those three? The colored once are made in may (same date all 3) and the clear one is older.


Contact Mick and see what he can do, he'll probably want to have a look in to why they changed colour so it doesn't happen again.


----------



## Dukman

So I'm close to joining this club. The irony (to me) is that I swore up and down that there was never any reason to water cool a PC. Then I made the attempt to run a set up with 3 way SLI.

Look where I am now.
















Almost to the "build" stage. Still need to sleeve the wiring and then I start stuffing parts in the the metal box.



So with some luck, I'll be updating this thread to show a built and operating system.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman*
> 
> So I'm close to joining this club. The irony (to me) is that I swore up and down that there was never any reason to water cool a PC. Then I made the attempt to run a set up with 3 way SLI.
> 
> Look where I am now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost to the "build" stage. Still need to sleeve the wiring and then I start stuffing parts in the the metal box.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So with some luck, I'll be updating this thread to show a built and operating system.


Just skill and not rushing the process is needed to complete the build.

Take your time.









TCO


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Contact Mick and see what he can do, he'll probably want to have a look in to why they changed colour so it doesn't happen again.


Good idea.

Can you tag him in the post? Or do you have his nickname?

I still find it weird that it is the newer batch that has turned yellow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just skill and not rushing the process is needed to complete the build.
> 
> Take your time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Agreed.
I found it was mostly time I needed. The skill will grow.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good idea.
> 
> Can you tag him in the post? Or do you have his nickname?
> 
> I still find it weird that it is the newer batch that has turned yellow.
> Agreed.
> I found it was mostly time I needed. The skill will grow.


Best to go to Mayhems' website and go to their support portal, knowing them they'll probably swap them for you but don't quote me on that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Some EK pron...

More pics in the log!





And a new toy for me....


----------



## VSG

You guys know that feeling when you use gloves so no fingerprints/oils hit nickel plated blocks, and then set the block up for photography but have to move the block slightly and forget the gloves? Me too.. Only realized when editing, which is a pain in itself for so much nickel.


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Some updates


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lyxchoklad*
> 
> Some updates
> ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are you Swedish??


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Are you Swedish??


I'm not Swedish but I love chocolate


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lyxchoklad*
> 
> I'm not Swedish but I love chocolate


Then you know your alias is "luxury chocolate" in Swedish right?














That's why I reacted to it









Btw, is there any feature on the forum in the settings that tells you everytime someone quotes you?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Then you know your alias is "luxury chocolate" in Swedish right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I reacted to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, is there any feature on the forum in the settings that tells you everytime someone quotes you?


yes. Go to preferences and play with the email / alerts part.


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Finally finished my 650D build and really happy with this! Just a quick phone pic, will get the dslr out at the weekend and take proper pics


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> Finally finished my 650D build and really happy with this! Just a quick phone pic, will get the dslr out at the weekend and take proper pics


I could be blind but I hardly ever see anybody use Monsoon fittings. I love the way they look with that unique design. Great job. ?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> I could be blind but I hardly ever see anybody use Monsoon fittings. I love the way they look with that unique design. Great job. ?


They don't get used much I suppose people prefer the looks of other fittings, as for me I don't mind them I used the hardline fittings which are pretty good and inspire a lot of confidence in it not leaking.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lyxchoklad*
> 
> Some updates
> ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you Swedish??
Click to expand...

Replying to this post because I'm on mobile and can't spoiler. @Lyxchoklad how hard was it to remove the acylic insert in the Raystorm Pro and paint it?


----------



## VSG

New Corsair ML120 Pro LED fans:










Pretty good fans for rads


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Replying to this post because I'm on mobile and can't spoiler. @Lyxchoklad how hard was it to remove the acylic insert in the Raystorm Pro and paint it?


On a gauge from 1 to 5, it was a 3. It is necessary to have patience and inch it up slowly and evenly. Please mask off the sides before painting due to the acrylic being almost an exact fit. Once your done painting rock it back into place slowly.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New Corsair ML120 Pro LED fans:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty good fans for rads


So I'm guessing that means it's a step up from SP120?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I'm guessing that means it's a step up from SP120?


Easily.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Easily.


Thats promising at least.

How would you compare them to for example GT, Vardars, F12 and Eloops?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lyxchoklad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Replying to this post because I'm on mobile and can't spoiler. @Lyxchoklad how hard was it to remove the acylic insert in the Raystorm Pro and paint it?
> 
> 
> 
> On a gauge from 1 to 5, it was a 3. It is necessary to have patience and inch it up slowly and evenly. Please mask off the sides before painting due to the acrylic being almost an exact fit. Once your done painting rock it back into place slowly.
Click to expand...

So only paint the exact top because the sides would make it too thick to reinsert? Have you tried LED's with the paint and if so how does is look, does the light still illuminate through it?


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> So only paint the exact top because the sides would make it too thick to reinsert? Have you tried LED's with the paint and if so how does is look, does the light still illuminate through it?


Yes. The paint will scrape off the sides (i learned that the hard way). The paint I used was opaque so i will not be able to use LED's.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lyxchoklad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> So only paint the exact top because the sides would make it too thick to reinsert? Have you tried LED's with the paint and if so how does is look, does the light still illuminate through it?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. The paint will scrape off the sides (i learned that the hard way). The paint I used was opaque so i will not be able to use LED's.
Click to expand...

Great info, thank you, +rep!


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamikaze-X*
> 
> Finally finished my 650D build and really happy with this! Just a quick phone pic, will get the dslr out at the weekend and take proper pics


Very nice looking. Love the cobra on the psu cage. I almost got this motherboard (Z97 version, not sure what you are using) but I realized it uses a low number of power phases and based on a few reviews it seems like it is not very good for overclocking high end CPU. Just a word of warning, might want to watch VRM temps. Super good looking though. Very nice. Hope to see your better pics soon.


----------



## SetiroN

Here's my old,dirty and beat up computer that I originally built just in 2008 to accommodate Nehalem and I recently upgraded to skylake, keeping the original cooling system (which seems overkill nowadays).

Apologies for the picture quality.



















Components:
6700K delid @ 153x32=4.9GHz 1.52v (75°C under load with 28°C)
2x16GB DDR4 Corsair 2133C13 @ 3060MHz C13-13-13-32-320-1T 1.4v
Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 7
GTX 970 power modded @ 1600/4000 (boost disabled), 1.212v (50°C under load with 28°C)
850 EVO 500GB (400GB w/ 100GB additional overprovision)
850 EVO 250GB (200 w/ 50GB additional overprovision)
2x WD Black in RAID1 for storage
Seasonic M12 750W 1st gen

Cooling:
EK Supreme
Nameless GPU block
Black Ice GTX 280 (front), 4x140mm 1500RPM push-pull
Black Ice GTX 420 (top), 6x140mm 1500RPM push-pull
TFC 360 (out back), 3x120mm 1200RPM push
3cm ghetto fan shrouds on all rads (pins+electrical tape)
2x Laing DDC 3.2 w/ DIYNHK PCB mod
White tubing (well, it used to be white, now it's filthy)
Pure distilled water with a couple drops of PT nuke and a silver spiral
No tank, there are two fill ports w/ valves on the front, accessible from the 5,25" slots


----------



## dmfree88

Wow I want to see this in a case! This looks sweet! I think this is a first for Phanteks, looks very nice!

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080.html


----------



## LiquidHaus

a shot I took today at work


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SwishaMane

That is a NICE setup outofmyheadyo... Great job! I'm feeling the automotive tube look and the drain port at the bottom for convenience... slick!


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


are that rubber tubings?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sneaky peek at the new backplates?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sneaky peek at the new backplates?


Looks pretty hawt. Good stuff B.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> are that rubber tubings?


That's ek ZMT tubing =)


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SetiroN*
> 
> Here's my old,dirty and beat up computer that I originally built just in 2008 to accommodate Nehalem and I recently upgraded to skylake, keeping the original cooling system (which seems overkill nowadays).
> 
> Apologies for the picture quality.
> 
> Components:
> 6700K delid @ 153x32=3.9GHz 1.52v (75°C under load with 28°C)
> 2x16GB DDR4 Corsair 2133C13 @ 3060MHz C13-13-13-32-320-1T 1.4v
> Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 7
> GTX 970 power modded @ 1600/4000 (boost disabled), 1.212v (50°C under load with 28°C)
> 850 EVO 500GB (400GB w/ 100GB additional overprovision)
> 850 EVO 250GB (200 w/ 50GB additional overprovision)
> 2x WD Black in RAID1 for storage
> Seasonic M12 750W 1st gen
> 
> Cooling:
> EK Supreme
> Nameless GPU block
> Black Ice GTX 280 (front), 4x140mm 1500RPM push-pull
> Black Ice GTX 420 (top), 6x140mm 1500RPM push-pull
> TFC 360 (out back), 3x120mm 1200RPM push
> 3cm ghetto fan shrouds on all rads (pins+electrical tape)
> 2x Laing DDC 3.2 w/ DIYNHK PCB mod
> White tubing (well, it used to be white, now it's filthy)
> Pure distilled water with a couple drops of PT nuke and a silver spiral
> No tank, there are two fill ports w/ valves on the front, accessible from the 5,25" slots


ok just trying to help here so don't take it personally but whoa 1.5v is way too much for an i7 6700k and it's running slower than base clock (4ghz which It can easily do on 1.2v stock v). Be careful that's pretty much over what they recommend for that processor. I have mine running at 4.7ghz at 1.325v stable and got it to 4.8 at 1.4. I think 1.45 is the max they recommend


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> That's ek ZMT tubing =)


Yay for another zmt user. Love that stuff.

And yeah 1.5v is awful high.


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> That's ek ZMT tubing =)


I was looking at that tubing when I was buying everything else, but there was never a good shot of it. I really like how it looks. Now I might just eBay my Primochill stuff and get that.


----------



## SetiroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> ok just trying to help here so don't take it personally but whoa 1.5v is way too much for an i7 6700k and it's running slower than base clock (4ghz which It can easily do on 1.2v stock v). Be careful that's pretty much over what they recommend for that processor. I have mine running at 4.7ghz at 1.325v stable and got it to 4.8 at 1.4. I think 1.45 is the max they recommend


That was clearly a typo, it's obviously running at 4.9ghz... it said 153x32 too, why would you think I was running it below stock









And it's fine, "they" is actually random people stating tentative guesses as fact. The intel spec goes up to 1.52v and in any case, CPUs give multiple signs of electromigration, they don't just die.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SetiroN*
> 
> That was clearly a typo, it's obviously running at 4.9ghz... it said 153x32 too, why would you think I was running it below stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it's fine, "they" is actually random people stating tentative guesses as fact. The intel spec goes up to 1.52v and in any case, CPUs give multiple signs of electromigration, they don't just die.


I guess it's good that it was a typo as most of us wouldn't go behind you and do the math that you have provided the community.

Where did you find the data about the 1.52Core V from Intel?

TCO


----------



## SetiroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I guess it's good that it was a typo as most of us wouldn't go behind you and do the math that you have provided the community.
> 
> Where did you find the data about the 1.52Core V from Intel?


Oh well even without having to do the math (which if you play with clocks comes immediately but I understand most stay at stock bclk) a typo should be more plausible than going through the trouble of running a custom water loop to underclock while overvolting









http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/desktop-6th-gen-core-family-datasheet-vol-1.html
Section 7.2.

The CPU runs cool so I have zero worries. If some electromigration (which is what causes CPU degradation) were to happen, I'd lose stability and just lower the overclock. It's not a big deal. CPUs are sturdy.

People like to terrorise folks saying "you can't go over 1.4v!" with literally zero basis aside from "some dudes say so on internet forums and it sounds reasonable".









PS, what are the fans on your popped cherry build? I love them! Are they 140mm?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SetiroN*
> 
> Oh well even without having to do the math (which if you play with clocks comes immediately but I understand most stay at stock bclk) a typo should be more plausible than going through the trouble of running a custom water loop to underclock while overvolting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/desktop-6th-gen-core-family-datasheet-vol-1.html
> Section 7.2.
> 
> The CPU runs cool so I have zero worries. If some electron migration (which is what causes CPU degradation) were to happen, I'd lose stability and just lower the overclock. It's not a big deal. CPUs are sturdy.
> 
> People like to terrorise folks saying "you can't go over 1.4v!" with literally zero basis aside from "some dudes say so on internet forums and it sounds reasonable".


Lol I'm at 4.72ghz on a poor overlocking 4670k.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Blocks fitted.







More pics in the log.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1605575/caselabs-bh4-milspec-ii/0_20


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Easily.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats promising at least.
> 
> How would you compare them to for example GT, Vardars, F12 and Eloops?
Click to expand...

Like this:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/12/corsair-ml120-pro-120-mm-fan/


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Blocks fitted.
> 
> 
> 
> More pics in the log.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1605575/caselabs-bh4-milspec-ii/0_20


That Klevv memory goes well with that board.


----------



## fakeblood

Picked up some barrow chromed tubing from Ali express. Shiny!


----------



## SetiroN

Looks lovely. But can the chrome stand bending?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SetiroN*
> 
> Looks lovely. But can the chrome stand bending?


I might test it, but 99% likely that I wont be bending them and just using fittings.
Theyll be replacing the acrylic Im currently using..

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC03472_zpsmbjun2vb.jpg.html


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SetiroN*
> 
> Looks lovely. But can the chrome stand bending?


Not sure if this is the same tubing but it is Barrow chrome plated brass and it appears in the photos it was definitely bendable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331892667560?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Couple crazy bends in the photos. Would like to know how easy it is to bend. Looks pretty amazing.


----------



## Henderjc

Nothing fancy in the water cooling department, but here you go.


Hers and His gaming station.


Case: Phantek Enthoo Mini XL (Two motherboards, 1 PSU, 1 Case, Love it)
Monitors: LG 34UM95-P 34" Ultrawide
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 Power Supply

I have the Water Pump and most of the fans turn on when either switch/motherboard is on. The Phantek Power Splitter is great for this.


Hers:
Motherboard: Gigabyte H97N-WIFI ITX
CPU: Intel I5 4590
GPU: XFX R9 Fury X w/ AquaComputer Full Cover Block.
Memory: Don't Remember


His:
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5
CPU: Intel I7 4790K
GPU: MSI GTX 1080 SeaHawk EK X
Memory: Can't remember this one either!


----------



## Bogga

Just got a case for close to nothing... I want to do a build with it. But I'm really not an ITX-guy and I've just spent loads of money on my current project...

Save for later or sell?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Just got a case for close to nothing... I want to do a build with it. But I'm really not an ITX-guy and I've just spent loads of money on my current project...
> 
> Save for later or sell?


How much do you want for the Frame?

TCO


----------



## Bogga

Aint got enough rep to sell it through the forum... I've put it on some swedish sites.

I'm either selling the entire thing or nothing, no reason for me to keep some parts and sell some.

Sending it from Sweden to USA might cost a bit, wont it?


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Aint got enough rep to sell it through the forum... I've put it on some swedish sites.
> 
> I'm either selling the entire thing or nothing, no reason for me to keep some parts and sell some.
> 
> Sending it from Sweden to USA might cost a bit, wont it?


Send me an PM with how much you want for it. I am down in Latvia and I'm quite interested in case. I will also be in Sweden in September if you still have it by then.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Aint got enough rep to sell it through the forum... I've put it on some swedish sites.
> 
> I'm either selling the entire thing or nothing, no reason for me to keep some parts and sell some.
> 
> Sending it from Sweden to USA might cost a bit, wont it?


Did you really get that d frame for next to nothing? Wow. Good score. Love that case. How much if I might ask?

Or was it the phanteks you got.

*edit* and when he asked if you'd sell the frame. That's what he meant. The inwin d frame. Not the 'frame' of the case


----------



## MadPolygon

Two shots of my CPU block after draining my loop and clesaning it up. I was suprised it had absolutely no gunk or corrosion, basically looks like new after a quick wipe with nevr dull.


----------



## Sazexa

Well aint that just some tight radiator fitment we got here.











A little preview of what's to come.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Did you really get that d frame for next to nothing? Wow. Good score. Love that case. How much if I might ask?
> 
> Or was it the phanteks you got.
> 
> *edit* and when he asked if you'd sell the frame. That's what he meant. The inwin d frame. Not the 'frame' of the case


Actually, there was a guy in Sweden last year who sold 2 of them for like 50 bucks each or even less. Didn't pick one up though because I personally don't like them. But sometimes you can make a bargain


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well aint that just some tight radiator fitment we got here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little preview of what's to come.


Raise you a 420 and 360mm rad in a fractal define S.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Actually, there was a guy in Sweden last year who sold 2 of them for like 50 bucks each or even less. Didn't pick one up though because I personally don't like them. But sometimes you can make a bargain


That US dollars? If so that's a sweet deal. I think those things run close to 300 bucks. I always kinda liked em.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Send me an PM with how much you want for it. I am down in Latvia and I'm quite interested in case. I will also be in Sweden in September if you still have it by then.


I'll get back to you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Did you really get that d frame for next to nothing? Wow. Good score. Love that case. How much if I might ask?
> 
> Or was it the phanteks you got.
> 
> *edit* and when he asked if you'd sell the frame. That's what he meant. The inwin d frame. Not the 'frame' of the case


Yeah, it hit me after I had replied..









Since I'm used to seeing that Phanteks every day and the inwin was a new thingie it never hit me that people might not think the same as me... haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Actually, there was a guy in Sweden last year who sold 2 of them for like 50 bucks each or even less. Didn't pick one up though because I personally don't like them. But sometimes you can make a bargain


Yeah, I read on sweclockers that people had sold them on "Tradera" for like 500 sek. I salute the buyers that got such a case for that amount of money. I've googled like crazy and the price I've found is approximately 2300 sek before shipping since they can't be bought in Sweden... (not new ones)


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Raise you a 420 and 360mm rad in a fractal define S.


I am guessing that this is a 360 on the top and a 420 on the front?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> I am guessing that this is a 360 on the top and a 420 on the front?


Nope, 420 up top and a 360 on the front.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Enthoo Luxe is finally finished. Cable combs and strategic placement of some black tape on LEDs and she's ready. Build name APOGEE.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0660_zpsglazc6pm.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0658_zps3ug8h4c8.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0657_zps3a2uegqg.jpg.html

Cable combs, LED black tape adjustments and some B roll.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Enthoo Luxe is finally finished. Cable combs and strategic placement of some black tape on LEDs and she's ready. Build name APOGEE.
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0660_zpsglazc6pm.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0658_zps3ug8h4c8.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0657_zps3a2uegqg.jpg.html
> 
> Cable combs, LED black tape adjustments and some B roll.


That is nice


----------



## Ceadderman

@ the Monsoon fiittings discussion/opinions...

Actually, a lot of people use Monsoon fittings of every variety. You would probably be surprised if you only knew.

I used the original compressions and now have owned their Chainguns (4pk) and 24 Economies in Red and Shiny Black Nickel. All in 3/4" and 5/8" ID.

So yeah there are a metric crapton of us out there. They are serious quality fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Aint got enough rep to sell it through the forum... I've put it on some swedish sites.
> 
> I'm either selling the entire thing or nothing, no reason for me to keep some parts and sell some.
> 
> Sending it from Sweden to USA might cost a bit, wont it?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you really get that d frame for next to nothing? Wow. Good score. Love that case. How much if I might ask?
> 
> Or was it the phanteks you got.
> 
> *edit* and when he asked if you'd sell the frame. That's what he meant. The inwin d frame. Not the 'frame' of the case
Click to expand...

I just got a i7 4790 for nothing. Of course it's wrapped up in a crappy Dell wrapper but I definitely won't complain.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Play Time with one of my favourite toys








New tube and fittings for Salive8's mobo...
Tube still needs polishing and clear coat, all in good time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lookin Copper Smexy with the 2 tone and the Heatkiller backplate. Honestly I wouldn't mess with perfection. Love shiny see your reflection Copper but that's simply perfection atm. Not sure you can get it any better than you have it now.










~Ceadder


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin Copper Smexy with the 2 tone and the Heatkiller backplate. Honestly I wouldn't mess with perfection. Love shiny see your reflection Copper but that's simply perfection atm. Not sure you can get it any better than you have it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


right!? looks freaking awesome!


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well aint that just some tight radiator fitment we got here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little preview of what's to come.


EK is releasing a monoblock for the new rampage if you weren't aware!


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> EK is releasing a monoblock for the new rampage if you weren't aware!


I've heard rumors of that. I'm interested to see how it'll work, with the board's LEDs. I've also heard removing the rear I/O cover could be a pain, so I'll wait and see some reviews before I buy it.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I've heard rumors of that. I'm interested to see how it'll work, with the board's LEDs. I've also heard removing the rear I/O cover could be a pain, so I'll wait and see some reviews before I buy it.


I'm interested also, been checking for that coming soon message on ek to change to available









Hey for those that own the R5E10 did you guys take the plastic out that is on the rear io area heatsink?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I'm interested also, been checking for that coming soon message on ek to change to available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey for those that own the R5E10 did you guys take the plastic out that is on the rear io area heatsink?


The plastic was a pain, but I did remove it fully. When I first started peeling it back, like everyone, it ripped on me. I uses some smaller needle-nose pliers and gently pulled on it. The plastic stretched and broke two or three times more, but every time it did I was able to grab another section until I got the last bit of it out. I've heard using some sort of credit/debit card also works.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> The plastic was a pain, but I did remove it fully. When I first started peeling it back, like everyone, it ripped on me. I uses some smaller needle-nose pliers and gently pulled on it. The plastic stretched and broke two or three times more, but every time it did I was able to grab another section until I got the last bit of it out. I've heard using some sort of credit/debit card also works.


I left mine in there, it's going to melt and become part of the heat sink lol. I'll try to take out the one on my wife's r5e10 though since it has not been installed yet.


----------



## nden

Just finished my rig. Here it is:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Nomad692000

@nden Nice very nice.


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomad692000*
> 
> @nden Nice very nice.


Thanks.


----------



## paskowitz

Getting there...



Still have to do some cable management, polishing, and get acrylic covers for the PSU and the vertical panel with the HDD mounts. Also considering something to train/hold the bottom tube run so it is straighter.


----------



## OverSightX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @ the Monsoon fiittings discussion/opinions...
> 
> Actually, a lot of people use Monsoon fittings of every variety. You would probably be surprised if you only knew.
> 
> I used the original compressions and now have owned their Chainguns (4pk) and 24 Economies in Red and Shiny Black Nickel. All in 3/4" and 5/8" ID.
> 
> So yeah there are a metric crapton of us out there. They are serious quality fittings.
> I just got a i7 4790 for nothing. Of course it's wrapped up in a crappy Dell wrapper but I definitely won't complain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm a big Monsoon fittings fan.. been using them the last few years on every build for myself. Currently using the Red Carbon look.


----------



## iCrap




----------



## prznar1

This is my idea of a loop order for inwin 303 that is standing next to me. Im going to watercool it soon, so i thought i would share a thought with you for any tips and tricks.

forgot to mention, loop order is res, pump, cpu gpu, rad, res


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*


woah, that lighting makes it look like some large machinery in a huge room. Nice shot with a cool perspective


----------



## Kamikaze-X

I'm also a monsoon user, their compression fittings are just perfect, and the chain gun ones look awesome but can be hard to fit into tight spaces.

Anyway, 90% finished on this build, and I've impressed myself. I've never done a mod this involved and really happy with it! Its all on a Corsair Obsidian 650D.


----------



## fakeblood

Got the old Nickel Supremacy block out and gave it a sweet brushed look.
Gonna replace the clear EVO in the next tear down this week







Should fit nicely with my chromed tubing going in.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mo...e-4ed9-8396-ce6c6a0de95e_zps6uyun7nm.jpg.html


----------



## Solonowarion

I really dig that. ^


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden*
> 
> Just finished my rig. Here it is:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet rig. What are you doing to cause that effect in the reservoir?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nden*
> 
> Just finished my rig. Here it is:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet rig. What are you doing to cause that effect in the reservoir?
Click to expand...

The loop isn't full. So it's likely that we're seeing cavitation in the Reservoir.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Got the old Nickel Supremacy block out and gave it a sweet brushed look.
> Gonna replace the clear EVO in the next tear down this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should fit nicely with my chromed tubing going in.
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mo...e-4ed9-8396-ce6c6a0de95e_zps6uyun7nm.jpg.html


That looks good,did you do the same treatment on the sides too? Ties in nicely to the EK GPU blocks,tidy job .


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That looks good,did you do the same treatment on the sides too? Ties in nicely to the EK GPU blocks,tidy job .


I did, but vertical lines on the left and right. Will do them again to match the direction of the top I think.

Unfortunately I don't have any water block on my GPU. Trying to sell my 980 Matrix to get a 1080 and EK block so it's all matchey matchey.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Teaser of what's finally coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Much better job on the tubing sleeve.









What sleeve did you use?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Teaser of what's finally coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much better job on the tubing sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What sleeve did you use?
Click to expand...

Thank you, and thank you for the tips. MainframeCustom special ordered a sata sleeve version of their "Teleios Fusion Carbon Fiber" for me. It's in their shop now. A little loose, but looks great. Final pics are in the build log!


----------



## ruffhi

First time running the full loop. The good news ... no leaks. The bad news ... I have a horrible sound coming from one of the pumps after about 1:45 of running.

I'm just running the pumps, nothing else, no fans, no motherboard, no SSDs, no Aquaero. I think that means the pumps are running at 60%.

Any input regarding the sound at the end?

*Edit:* It is the pump on the right. I ran them individually ... bad sound from one on right.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Got the old Nickel Supremacy block out and gave it a sweet brushed look.
> Gonna replace the clear EVO in the next tear down this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should fit nicely with my chromed tubing going in.
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mo...e-4ed9-8396-ce6c6a0de95e_zps6uyun7nm.jpg.html


Looks nice. I actually just replaced my Nickel base, good thing Performance pcs had it in stock.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> First time running the full loop. The good news ... no leaks. The bad news ... I have a horrible sound coming from one of the pumps after about 1:45 of running.
> 
> I'm just running the pumps, nothing else, no fans, no motherboard, no SSDs, no Aquaero. I think that means the pumps are running at 60%.
> 
> Any input regarding the sound at the end?
> 
> *Edit:* It is the pump on the right. I ran them individually ... bad sound from one on right.


Is it possible there's air stuck in the pump? kind of sounds like it although I could be wrong. Have you fully bled the loop yet?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Is it possible there's air stuck in the pump? kind of sounds like it although I could be wrong. Have you fully bled the loop yet?


The initial part of my loop is very vertical and I was able to pour water into the Res, through both pumps and I could hear it gurgling around in the radiators before even needing to turn on the pumps.

There wasn't much air in the loop once it came around to the res.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The initial part of my loop is very vertical and I was able to pour water into the Res, through both pumps and I could hear it gurgling around in the radiators before even needing to turn on the pumps.
> 
> There wasn't much air in the loop once it came around to the res.


Dead bearing from air lock in the pump, replace the pump, its dead now sadly. You said it yourself, there is no disturbance in the res, so barely any flow which would indicate to me that there is air lock.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The initial part of my loop is very vertical and I was able to pour water into the Res, through both pumps and I could hear it gurgling around in the radiators before even needing to turn on the pumps.
> 
> There wasn't much air in the loop once it came around to the res.


can you post some pics of the loop (in and out specially) of the pumps?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Dead bearing from air lock in the pump, replace the pump, its dead now sadly. You said it yourself, there is no disturbance in the res, so barely any flow which would indicate to me that there is air lock.


I have two pumps so one dead one won't completely stop the flow ... or will it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> can you post some pics of the loop (in and out specially) of the pumps?


I can ... but tomorrow. All of my tubes are solid (white, green, black) so you won't see any liquid movement. I am going to swap out a section of the green tubing with clear so that you can see liquid flow.

I will drain some water out of the loop so that the reservoir return port is above the water line.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have two pumps so one dead one won't completely stop the flow ... or will it?
> I can ... but tomorrow. All of my tubes are solid (white, green, black) so you won't see any liquid movement. I am going to swap out a section of the green tubing with clear so that you can see liquid flow.
> 
> I will drain some water out of the loop so that the reservoir return port is above the water line.


no need to drain. I just want to see the layout of the loop. It seems one pump is feeding directly the other. Just want to understand the loop order. But if you are going to drain it I would test each pump separetly out of the case in a simple loop to check how it goes. Those are the koolance d5 tops?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have two pumps so one dead one won't completely stop the flow ... or will it?


No, it will have only very little effect on flow.

BTW that pump noise.... Not sure what's worse, fingernails being scratched on an old school blackboard or your pump noise...









Do note that you can easily find yourself in a situation whereby a pump may have a fair amount of 'stuck' air (air lock scenario) inside its volute so when it spins up it doesn't really flow any water as such. Odd thing in your case is that you have 2 pumps so I would have thought that at least one of them would have pumped coolant... unless both have air in their volutes.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> no need to drain. I just want to see the layout of the loop. It seems one pump is feeding directly the other. Just want to understand the loop order. But if you are going to drain it I would test each pump separetly out of the case in a simple loop to check how it goes. Those are the koolance d5 tops?


The pumps are both Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with RPM Signal.
The headers are both Watercool HEATKILLER® D5-TOP.

Yes ... the headers are facing each other and the outlet from the right pump flows straight into the inlet in the left pump .. a distance of about 30mm.

I actually want to document the flow in total (for feedback







) but I can't do that tonight. The plumbing around the pumps is best illustrated in this post from my build log (includes video).


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> No, it will have only very little effect on flow.
> 
> BTW that pump noise.... Not sure what's worse, fingernails being scratched on an old school blackboard or your pump noise...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do note that you can easily find yourself in a situation whereby a pump may have a fair amount of 'stuck' air (air lock scenario) inside its volute so when it spins up it doesn't really flow any water as such. Odd thing in your case is that you have 2 pumps so I would have thought that at least one of them would have pumped coolant... unless both have air in their volutes.


One is full of air bubbles the other is full of air that's why there is no movement in his res I would imagine, could be wrong but that other pump sounds dry/dead.


----------



## FXformat

Just finished the new build today...

16mm tubing, double bending these fat asses is not easy...still gotta tidy up some cables and put the PCI covers back on then i'm done..


----------



## ruffhi

I drained a little out of the loop so that I could see the reservoir return port ... only to find that the flow is hopeless. Much better to call it a dribble. I rocked the whole unit back and forth, front and back, left and right and it greatly improved the flow (more a gush now) ... but the air noise from the pumps jumped (only the left pump is pumping ... the right pump is sitting there laughing at me).

How do you remove air bubbles ... just run the loop a lot?


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Just finished the new build today...
> 
> 16mm tubing, double bending these fat asses is not easy...still gotta tidy up some cables and put the PCI covers back on then i'm done..


That looks amazing buddy. What kind of rizer cable did you use? I had a go at at that about six months ago and the rizer cable I used was a piece of **** and I couldn't get the GPU to go full x16 even though the cable was apparently specd at that.

Also not to nitpick, it's a much better job than I could have done ?, but are those fans only secured by two screws each? Was the spacing off?

To be honest I wouldn't have even noticed if screws were black, but it seems you had to use replacements(?) and since they're that color it kind of stood out.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> That looks amazing buddy. What kind of rizer cable did you use? I had a go at at that about six months ago and the rizer cable I used was a piece of **** and I couldn't get the GPU to go full x16 even though the cable was apparently specd at that.
> 
> Also not to nitpick, it's a much better job than I could have done ?, but are those fans only secured by two screws each? Was the spacing off?
> 
> To be honest I wouldn't have even noticed if screws were black, but it seems you had to use replacements(?) and since they're that color it kind of stood out.


Screws, are black, just the reflection....yeah i just bolted stuff up real quick to snap a pic...tomorrow i will fine tune all the details, and shrink wrap the pump wiring...i dont know why EK still doesn't sleeve their wirings...or at least make the wires black.

As for the riser cable, i used the Lian Li one that came on my last O6S, i had an extra because i was going to SLI but then i couldn't fit them in the case...as far as i know, these are the only ones that give u the full 16 lanes, other cables don't even show a video lol.


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> -snip-


Is that a Lian- i case?


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Is that a Lian- i case?


its an inwin 303







great case. Have one myself.


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> its an inwin 303
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> great case. Have one myself.


yeah i just found the owners club, its definitely on my list now


----------



## prznar1

Case is worth the price. Brand, materials, design. All for less then 100$ bucks.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Case is worth the price. Brand, materials, design. All for less then 100$ bucks.


Yep, very high quality case with tempered glass. Easily would've paid $150 for this, it was fun to build in too. U have pics of your build?


----------



## prznar1

I havent finished my build yet. So far its just meh gtx 660 and acrtic freezer on cpu.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> no need to drain. I just want to see the layout of the loop. It seems one pump is feeding directly the other. Just want to understand the loop order.


Here is a vid of my flow loop. I'm only running one pump (left, no ugly sounds) and I am getting a much better flow (as you will see). Reservoir is almost full).

I've also powered up my Aquaero and it is reporting(!). I can tell you that the water temp and the two temp sensors near the rads are all reporting 24.6°C. How do I find / display the pump RPM rate and the flow rate?


----------



## Iceman2733

Has anyone used Singularity Computers Etheral res mounts? I am thinking about trying out his dual res mount setup but it looks like no one sells in the US so I wanted to check into some info

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## FXformat

Does anyone know where to find a rectangular resevoir? I need something about 5" wide and 9" high and 2" deep, i have too many dead spaces in my case right now with the cylindrical one


----------



## fa5terba11

Isn't it upside down?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Does anyone know where to find a rectangular resevoir? I need something about 5" wide and 9" high and 2" deep, i have too many dead spaces in my case right now with the cylindrical one


Alas, the time when one could find all kinds of "exotic" solutions is about 10 years in the past.

Build your own







A couple of acryl sheets & glue from the nearest DIY, drill & tap some thread.. and .. voila









You wouldn't be the first doing that either, a year or so back somebody build a huge one out of 1/2" thick sheets.

PS: Maybe there are aquarium separator tanks (you hang into an aquarium with filters or food or something) that can be repurposed?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Does anyone know where to find a rectangular resevoir? I need something about 5" wide and 9" high and 2" deep, i have too many dead spaces in my case right now with the cylindrical one


As Rnrollie said you can build your own. But if you are not willing to do some artisans here provide that service (example: @OrangeClockwerk)


----------



## MR-e

My build is now 99% complete, just need to replace the mix and match psu cables with a custom sleeved set.













Spoiler: Warning: Many Pics Inside!


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Here is a vid of my flow loop. I'm only running one pump (left, no ugly sounds) and I am getting a much better flow (as you will see). Reservoir is almost full).
> 
> I've also powered up my Aquaero and it is reporting(!). I can tell you that the water temp and the two temp sensors near the rads are all reporting 24.6°C. How do I find / display the pump RPM rate and the flow rate?


Looks great ruffhi!


----------



## ruffhi

I've put Liquorice Allsorts under air and hooked everything up (including internet). I managed to post to my build log from it!!!!

i changed the loop so that it goes from the flow meter back into the reservoir. I've also put the pump(s) on a 2nd PSU so now I can run the PC without the loop as well as running the loop without the PC. The Aquaero is on / off with the computer so i need them both on if I want to work with the Aquaero. I've also d/l and installed Aquasuite but it is a virgin install ... no info pages. Anyone got any bog standard ones I can d/l, install and play with?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> My build is now 99% complete, just need to replace the mix and match psu cables with a custom sleeved set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Many Pics Inside!


Digging the Eloops and the build. Would have loved to be in the log, but I know that IBruce has been infesting it









Good Job Mate!

TCO


----------



## MR-e

Thx TCO - Lol seems everyone is out to get the guy. It's okay, he's still my Brucey poo


----------



## Sazexa

Some random progress pictures on the new build


----------



## Kimir

PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX right? This is with 2 x360 rads?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX right? This is with 2 x360 rads?


Yes and yes. It was a very tough/tight fit.


----------



## Kimir

Looking good.








Probably the way I'll go to fit the R4BE and 980KPE I have in boxes, maybe with a 280mm rad up front if I go with this case. Still not sure, the InWin 303 would be great but I think a little short on rad space, plus I prefer PSU on the floor.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Looking good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably the way I'll go to fit the R4BE and 980KPE I have in boxes, maybe with a 280mm rad up front if I go with this case. Still not sure, the InWin 303 would be great but I think a little short on rad space, plus I prefer PSU on the floor.


I can fit a 420mm rad and a 360mm rad in the 303







...that should be plenty of cooling, unless you're trying to cool triple titans and a 5960k

You can't see the PSU in the 303, cable management is easy.


----------



## paskowitz

The 303 is also half the price of the Evolv ATX TG.


----------



## Kimir

Yup, that's its attraction point to me, the layout is another thing.


----------



## Blze001

Hey guys, quick question while I'm planning my loop: do you think two of EK's 240mm slim radiators would be enough for an i5-4670k running at 4.2GHz and a GTX 1070 FE at stock speeds?

I'm going to put a two-rad loop in my Hadron Air somehow... maybe... or I'll get fed up and buy a case that's actually meant for water cooling, but still.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Should be more than enough rad space


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Should be more than enough rad space


Good to know. Now to wait for a few months while my budget recovers from said GTX 1070 purchase.









In the mean-time I'll measure a couple dozen times to make sure there's room in preparation for the one measurement I don't take to derail the whole project.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question while I'm planning my loop: do you think two of EK's 240mm slim radiators would be enough for an i5-4670k running at 4.2GHz and a GTX 1070 FE at stock speeds?
> 
> I'm going to put a two-rad loop in my Hadron Air somehow... maybe... or I'll get fed up and buy a case that's actually meant for water cooling, but still.


Get that chip clocked!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question while I'm planning my loop: do you think two of EK's 240mm slim radiators would be enough for an i5-4670k running at 4.2GHz and a GTX 1070 FE at stock speeds?
> 
> I'm going to put a two-rad loop in my Hadron Air somehow... maybe... or I'll get fed up and buy a case that's actually meant for water cooling, but still.


More than plenty, you could run that off a single 240.

And 2 240mm radiators in a hadron air is going to be a serious challenge, I've seen a few that just managed to cram a single 240mm rad in there, but never two 240's. Would love to see the build log if you somehow manage to do it.


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> More than plenty, you could run that off a single 240.
> 
> And 2 240mm radiators in a hadron air is going to be a serious challenge, I've seen a few that just managed to cram a single 240mm rad in there, but never two 240's. Would love to see the build log if you somehow manage to do it.


That's why I'm going with the slim rads from EK, gives me a little more room to work with. I've already modded out the 1U power supply, so I have space on the top and bottom for a 240mm if it's slim enough and I mod the bottom a bit. Tube routing is going to be... interesting, to say the least.

This is probably going to be a Christmas project/gift to myself, but I'll definitely put a build log up when I do it.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> That's why I'm going with the slim rads from EK, gives me a little more room to work with. I've already modded out the 1U power supply, so I have space on the top and bottom for a 240mm if it's slim enough and I mod the bottom a bit. Tube routing is going to be... interesting, to say the least.
> 
> This is probably going to be a Christmas project/gift to myself, but I'll definitely put a build log up when I do it.


Have you checked out Gold Nugget? He required a 28mm thick rad(which you can't get anymore) and trimmed 12mm fans to get the radiator to not hit the motherboard on top.

Not saying it can't be done, but prepare to get the serious modding tools out.









Edit: forgot that the SE were only 26mm thick, thought they were 30mm. So it should be pretty feasable, fan choice will be quite limited though.


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Have you checked out Gold Nugget? He required a 28.6mm thick rad(which you can't get anymore) and trimmed 12mm fans to get the radiator to not hit the motherboard on top.
> 
> Not saying it can't be done, but prepare to get the serious modding tools out.


I looked pretty closely at his build, actually! I think I'm going to be okay, the EK slim rads are actually 26mm thick and I don't have that top-mounted daughter board which might give me a little wiggle room. Either way, I'm not even close to expecting plug-and-play. Hooo no.


----------



## timerwin63

Well, I'm working on stuffing water into my Hadron (again). Two tubes in and I realized I forgot to account for the PSU...







Oh well, this build is only temporary anyway. I'll pull it apart on a day when I have nothing else to do and cut the hole for an SFX unit.

The Barrow fittings don't play too well with ZMT and the knurling is chewing up my hands after only a couple runs. The runs being so short doesn't help, either.



I'll update again in a couple hours when the build's done if anyone's interested.

Edit: Oh, you guys are already talking about the Hadron. Didn't realize that.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Well, I'm working on stuffing water into my Hadron (again). Two tubes in and I realized I forgot to account for the PSU...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, this build is only temporary anyway. I'll pull it apart on a day when I have nothing else to do and cut the hole for an SFX unit.
> 
> I'll update again in a couple hours when the build's done if anyone's interested.


Maybe you could do an external PSU mod, like @Laine's Noir?

Would love to see some updates, have always found the Hadron a fairly interesting case, mainly because its so incompatible with liquid cooling, it just begs to be modded.


----------



## Revan654

Two Quick Questions:

1. I have an Air 540 what Radiator is best to use for that case? I'm currently looking at XSPC EX360 V3 & Hardware Labs GTS 360. Or is their some other Radiator I should look at? I only have 2.8" of clearance from the front to my GPU. What radiator should I go with?

2. Between EK-RES X3 150 and XS-PC Photon 170, Which is the better reservoir to grab?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Two Quick Questions:
> 
> 1. I have an Air 540 what Radiator is best to use for that case? I'm currently looking at XSPC EX360 V3 & Hardware Labs GTS 360. Or is their some other Radiator I should look at? I only have 2.8" of clearance from the front to my GPU. What radiator should I go with?
> 
> 2. Between EK-RES X3 150 and XS-PC Photon 170, Which is the better reservoir to grab?


You should check out Bill Owen's MNPCTech site. He did a 540 air with water cooling. It'll give you a good idea of what is possible with the Air.









Pretty sure their is an Air club here as well, so that's even more information to digest when you read through that thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hi guys, can people with hard tubing show me how they connect their cpu to gpu? The reason I ask is I tried to do mine and failed a lot of times and ran out of tubes so using soft tubing for now on that connection. I bent all my tubing by hand and eye.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats my loop so far.


Come straight up off the CPU with an extender, plug in a hard line 90 degree fitting, and you might be able to run a straight piece of tubing to another hard line fitting on your GPU. You shouldn't have to do any bending unless you really want to, but it doesn't seem to be working out for you.


----------



## Streetdragon

i search for an example waterbuild with a thermaltake core x9 that uses hard tubing without bendings. Only straight tubes. Anyone saw a build like this?
A build in a other big cube case would be ok too.

Wanna buy a core x9 and do hard tubes. I dont realy like bent hard tubes. Only if it is made perfektly and i have 2 left hands^^


----------



## wizardbro

I'm in London for a few days. Anyone know of any enthusiast PC shops where I can pick up some BP fittings and wc stuff? I'm guessing this stuff has moved to online retail only though.


----------



## khemist

Going to move the pump to the bottom of my BH7 case and i'm running low on Bitspower nickel tubing so i picked up some Barrow chrome 12mm.

https://imageshack.com/i/png0rJ6Rj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnjh9XjVj

Have to say the Barrow stuff is much thicker and heavier and is really solid, fits the Nanoxia coolforce fittings perfectly just like the Bitspower stuff.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Come straight up off the CPU with an extender, plug in a hard line 90 degree fitting, and you might be able to run a straight piece of tubing to another hard line fitting on your GPU. You shouldn't have to do any bending unless you really want to, but it doesn't seem to be working out for you.


What do you mean? Are my bends bad?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

64Gb of Ram from G Skill for the S Frame!

Purty Ramz....
































































Om Nom......nomnomnomnom....


----------



## Kimir

They look stunning, especially in yellow. But yellow is my favorite color, so there is that..


----------



## kgtuning

So i picked up a few EK fittings... these seem to bottom out before the o-ring compresses...



and heres a comparison with another fitting attached



the 90 seems nice and tight but the two 20mm extenders seem.. meh

edit: is this normal for these fittings?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> So i picked up a few EK fittings... these seem to bottom out before the o-ring compresses...
> 
> and heres a comparison with another fitting attached
> 
> the 90 seems nice and tight but the two 20mm extenders seem.. meh
> 
> edit: is this normal for these fittings?


The ek fittings are a lot easier for me to work with on compression than the bitspower. The only beef about it is the rotary fittings are too lose but never leaked on me.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> So i picked up a few EK fittings... these seem to bottom out before the o-ring compresses...
> 
> and heres a comparison with another fitting attached
> 
> the 90 seems nice and tight but the two 20mm extenders seem.. meh
> 
> edit: is this normal for these fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> The ek fittings are a lot easier for me to work with on compression than the bitspower. The only beef about it is the rotary fittings are too lose but never leaked on me *yet*.
Click to expand...

ftfy

D.


----------



## Azefore

Had 2 EK compression fittings before for temporary usage just because they were cheaper, bottomed out early and one leaked after 13 hours. Threw them in the bin and bought some BP


----------



## FXformat

Oh man, i think i got a bad block or something..first the discoloration, i covered it up with white pastel coolant..now there's crap in between the acrylic pieces...what is it? really unattractive since i have my video card mounted vertically, you can see it all.


----------



## catbuster

Any1 using coolforce fittings?







They look nice for the price


----------



## khemist

Yeah, i've got loads of them, they are very good.. the hardline fittings at least.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Oh man, i think i got a bad block or something..first the discoloration, i covered it up with white pastel coolant..now there's crap in between the acrylic pieces...what is it? really unattractive since i have my video card mounted vertically, you can see it all.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just looks like your coolant has seeped in between the main coolant flow passages in the block. This is normal and to be expected as there is no seal to prevent the fluid from seeping into those areas.

While it looks a tad 'meh' with those small trapped air bubbles, it's nothing to worry about....


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Oh man, i think i got a bad block or something..first the discoloration, i covered it up with white pastel coolant..now there's crap in between the acrylic pieces...what is it? really unattractive since i have my video card mounted vertically, you can see it all.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You could try taking it apart cleaning it off then when you re-assemble tighten the bolts down a tiny tiny bit more, maybe they're not tight enough but tbh it's not looking good for that block.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Just looks like your coolant has seeped in between the main coolant flow passages in the block. This is normal and to be expected as there is no seal to prevent the fluid from seeping into those areas.
> 
> While it looks a tad 'meh' with those small trapped air bubbles, it's nothing to worry about....


It doesn't look good, i spent a lot of time fabricating a bracket to have my GPU sit like this, to show off the liquid...it's still under return period at MicroCenter i think i have to return it for a different block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Passthrus are done and all the storage remains intact.



Also,dual PSU BH4.....FTW.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Passthrus are done and all the storage remains intact.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also,dual PSU BH4.....FTW.


What's going in there?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> The ek fittings are a lot easier for me to work with on compression than the bitspower. The only beef about it is the rotary fittings are too lose but never leaked on me.


I just got an EK male/male rotary fitting, and mine is too tight, and I can't properly tighten it lol


----------



## Tandalor2

Huh, the coolforce fittings look exactly like barrow fittings except for those weird edges on the knurling.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> What's going in there?


Better question: what's not going in there








Check this out: http://www.overclock.net/t/1605575/caselabs-bh4-milspec-ii


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Oh man, i think i got a bad block or something..first the discoloration, i covered it up with white pastel coolant..now there's crap in between the acrylic pieces...what is it? really unattractive since i have my video card mounted vertically, you can see it all.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could try taking it apart cleaning it off then when you re-assemble tighten the bolts down a tiny tiny bit more, maybe they're not tight enough but tbh it's not looking good for that block.
Click to expand...

Actually there is nothing wrong with that block. The only thing I don't like about FC blocks is that there is no thought to keeping coolant in the channels and not pushing through the shortest path of the blocks. That goes for ALL manufacturers and is not specific to any one brand. I thought about it and it seems the easiest fix is RTB painted on the contact surface between the block and the top and letting it dry to become a seal. It will add a frosted look to that section of the block, but it beats seeing coolant taking a shortcut to the GPU area.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Better question: what's not going in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check this out: http://www.overclock.net/t/1605575/caselabs-bh4-milspec-ii


----------



## melodystyle2003

Guys, i installed today a new compact reservoir and while i was filling the loop, my pump, phobya dc12-400, ran for 1-2 seconds dry/with less liquid than normal.
Now it makes a buzz noise which wasn't present before. Is not that noisy but it isn't the quiet pump that used to be. Is there anything i can do to fix it?


----------



## QuantumX

Hi guys, I have an EK-RES X3 150 reservoir which I would like to mount at the back of my Corsair 350D on the outside behind the 120mm exhaust fan. Problem is a can't seem to find a bracket that can make this possible.

Does anybody know of something like this? It will need to create a standoff distance of about 20mm above the fan holes also since there is an edge around the fan mounting area at the back.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumX*
> 
> Hi guys, I have an EK-RES X3 150 reservoir which I would like to mount at the back of my Corsair 350D on the outside behind the 120mm exhaust fan. Problem is a can't seem to find a bracket that can make this possible.
> 
> Does anybody know of something like this? It will need to create a standoff distance of about 20mm above the fan holes also since there is an edge around the fan mounting area at the back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There's a few ways you can do this:

-Grab (4) long 6-32 screws and (8)+ nuts, purchase the EK pump multi bracket and install it along with your fan.

-Grab a piece of aluminum, mount the pump/res on there, and use (2 or more) long 6-32 screws and mount with the fan

-Or drill a couple of holes beside the fan and mount the res/pump there.

-Or grab a couple of L-brackets, join them together and fabricate a mountin solution using the existin fan holes

Those are a few thing that comes up in my head right now.


----------



## eXe.Lilith

Since I never used UV in a build before (my friends seem to prefer pastel colors for some reason), and since I'm too lazy to go with rigid tubing (though that glass tubing from Mayhems looks sexy), here's a dumb question for you guys.
What would you use between the following:

Mayhems X1 UV Blue dye + Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing

or

Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 + PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Brilliant UV Blue

Would really appreciate your opinions, especially if you've used one of these combinations before.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 64Gb of Ram from G Skill for the S Frame!
> 
> Purty Ramz....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Om Nom......nomnomnomnom....


wish i was as gorgeous as those man.. and hey.. RAMZ is my name lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> wish i was as gorgeous as those man.. and hey.. RAMZ is my name lol


RAMZ!!!! Where you been hiding out??? Geez, Haven't seen you in ages!

TCO


----------



## vilius572

Thinking of doing something with my rig. The first thing that comes to mind is petg tubing and I think it's a great idea to go from soft tubing to hard tubing. However at the same time I'm thinking of changing up the colors a bit. I really like the Mayhems Blue berry but I also like yellow, which I already have. So I think about mixing these two colors together. What do you think guys? Excuse my paint skills


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Thinking of doing something with my rig. The first thing that comes to mind is petg tubing and I think it's a great idea to go from soft tubing to hard tubing. However at the same time I'm thinking of changing up the colors a bit. I really like the Mayhems Blue berry but I also like yellow, which I already have. So I think about mixing these two colors together. What do you think guys? Excuse my paint skills
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


First step I feel, would be hard tubing. You will have to drain it initially to accomplish this.

TCO


----------



## vilius572

I'm also thinking hard tubing should be the first step. I'm a blit dissapointed how bad my cables look together with blue coolant. I though blue and yellow will go nicely together but it didn't


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of doing something with my rig. The first thing that comes to mind is petg tubing and I think it's a great idea to go from soft tubing to hard tubing. However at the same time I'm thinking of changing up the colors a bit. I really like the Mayhems Blue berry but I also like yellow, which I already have. So I think about mixing these two colors together. What do you think guys? Excuse my paint skills


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> I'm also thinking hard tubing should be the first step. I'm a blit dissapointed how bad my cables look together with blue coolant. I though blue and yellow will go nicely together but it didn't


I dont think you can really use any color with that yellow/black scheme without adding additional components with the same color. It just won't match right no matter what you use (except of course black or yellow). Even white would look funny without white components. The only color that might look good is like a Magenta just because it would have sort of a girly look to it and offsets yellow well. Even then you still need a magenta fan or something to bring it together and it might end up taking away from the yellow. Balance is hard with extra colors. I really tried to do white/black and red and it didn't work for me. Way too hard to balance that many colors without a majority of components containing all the colors in the scheme which for my build requires too much fabrication. I am now changing everything so my build doesn't feel so damn ugly and sloppy. I don't recommend adding another color until you have it balanced throughout the case. I still like the magenta idea though if you can pull it off







. Make a "tough guys wear pink" PC lol.


----------



## v1ral

Question.
Masterkleer has this BPA free tubing, how does it compare to Mayhems clear tubing?
I am using Mayhems clear tubing but I think it's not as clear as I would hope it would be.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Thinking of doing something with my rig. The first thing that comes to mind is petg tubing and I think it's a great idea to go from soft tubing to hard tubing. However at the same time I'm thinking of changing up the colors a bit. I really like the Mayhems Blue berry but I also like yellow, which I already have. So I think about mixing these two colors together. What do you think guys? Excuse my paint skills


Leave it yellow. Make a PSU cover. Maybe a custom backplate. I wouldn't change the liquid, it looks great IMO.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXe.Lilith*
> 
> Since I never used UV in a build before (my friends seem to prefer pastel colors for some reason), and since I'm too lazy to go with rigid tubing (though that glass tubing from Mayhems looks sexy), here's a dumb question for you guys.
> What would you use between the following:
> 
> Mayhems X1 UV Blue dye + Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing
> 
> or
> 
> Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 + PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Brilliant UV Blue
> 
> Would really appreciate your opinions, especially if you've used one of these combinations before.


It kind of depends. Personally, I think colored tubing looks terrible, so I would use the dye. The UV effect of the dye will fade over time though and you will need to add more dye to it to maintain the UV effect. If you don't mind colored tubing and don't want to mess with adding dye every so often, go with the UV tubing.


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello people,

How often do you people change out pumps?
I have my pump for around 2-2,5 years and also bought it used (total lifespan is around 4 years). Swiftech MCP-655 vario.

Today I made calculations on flow rate and a rough estimate is that with my current parts I achieve ~1gpm at setting 4.

I really don't want to find out that I have to change my pump in a few months since I am about to redo my loop with rigid tubing.
When I switch to a mcp-50x (or 35x) for example, I have to go with another layout. Currently I am using the combined d5 x-res and with the 35x/50x I have to go separate pump and reservoir.

Lastly, how important is flow rate these days?
Will I benefit at all if I aim for 1.5gpm over 1gpm?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hello people,
> 
> How often do you people change out pumps?
> I have my pump for around 2-2,5 years and also bought it used (total lifespan is around 4 years). Swiftech MCP-655 vario.
> 
> Today I made calculations on flow rate and a rough estimate is that with my current parts I achieve ~1gpm at setting 4.
> 
> I really don't want to find out that I have to change my pump in a few months since I am about to redo my loop with rigid tubing.
> When I switch to a mcp-50x (or 35x) for example, I have to go with another layout. Currently I am using the combined d5 x-res and with the 35x/50x I have to go separate pump and reservoir.
> 
> Lastly, how important is flow rate these days?
> Will I benefit at all if I aim for 1.5gpm over 1gpm?


Flow rate is not massively important,1 GPM is a solid figure to go for,easily achievable and most blocks are designed around that figure.
Pumps dont get changed until they die.


----------



## Nichismo

I have always believed that the OEM watercooling pumps (specifically the DDC and D5 variations) have always been "overkill" for typical loops, however thats obviously all relative.

That being said, I really have a hard time picturing a pump failing out of pure longevity. Now I dont necessarily want to encourage you to simply wait until your pump randomly stops working.... but then again, if you aren't really keen on the idea of buying a new pump and doing the work to replace it, id say wait.

As far as flow goes, refer to my first statement. I personally believe pressure is more important, but only by a little. They obviously have close relativity in regards to how they effect one another.

I hate the term "overkill." Hate using it even more.

haha


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flow rate is not massively important,1 GPM is a solid figure to go for,easily achievable and most blocks are designed around that figure.
> Pumps dont get changed until they die.


Alright.
I know in the past (post '10s) flow rate was more important with the massively wide channels in blocks.

It's not that the pump shows signs of dying... no excessive noise (bearing) or anything.
More like I have no clue on how the flow rate is. I can't see it.









Then again. I will find out soon enough when my temps skyrocket.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I have always believed that the OEM watercooling pumps (specifically the DDC and D5 variations) have always been "overkill" for typical loops, however thats obviously all relative.
> 
> That being said, I really have a hard time picturing a pump failing out of pure longevity. Now I dont necessarily want to encourage you to simply wait until your pump randomly stops working.... but then again, if you aren't really keen on the idea of buying a new pump and doing the work to replace it, id say wait.
> 
> As far as flow goes, refer to my first statement. I personally believe pressure is more important, but only by a little. They obviously have close relativity in regards to how they effect one another.
> 
> I hate the term "overkill." Hate using it even more.
> 
> haha


Overkill...
I don't really see the word like others do, I guess. To me overkill is enough. I like a little extra... because I can.









What do you mean on your first sentence? Regarding OEM pumps.

Why wouldn't a pump die from longevity, what do you think it would die from then? It's not like I would drop it while using.
I guess first and foremost reason are worn out bearings. Making it spin slim to zero.

I posted this because I have parts laying in the house waiting for me to redo the build (new case, rigid tubing + fittings, extra rad).
That's why I thought about: how long will it last?
If I do the build now with the intended layout in mind and then have to change the pump (thinking on getting the mcp50x) because of failure, that would force me to sell the d5 x-res top/combo and buy new tubing (and re-bend), the pump and a reservoir.

*Comparison:*
mcp655.

mcp50x


Looking at 1GPM (3.875 LPM) the D5 achieves around 3.2 mH2O (4.3-4.4 psi) and the 50x above 4.5 mH2O (6.4 psi).
Calculations for my loop came out at ~2.94 psi (~2.2 mH2O) @ 1GPM. Showing the D5 reaches that around setting 4 while the 50x only has to spin around 45-50%.

Normally DDC pumps are louder but with the 50x around 50% I think it should be quieter than the D5.


----------



## Nichismo

Your taking the statement a bit too literally.

Of course, nothing on earth is infinite, lifetime being probably one of the most commonly thought of, be it organic life or PC components...

I too have a ton of parts lying around as well, and thats partially my point. I just have trouble actually witnessing/hearing about a pump simply stopping one day and thus the subsequent owner going "well, it was PRETTY old, im just going to toss it...." I just have trouble envisioning that. Im not saying it wouldn't happen, because obviously it would, but your exact current scenario is a perfect example. Chances are, your NOT going to wait until it just dies one day, chances are that your going to replace it before then.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Your taking the statement a bit too literally.
> 
> Of course, nothing on earth is infinite, lifetime being probably one of the most commonly thought of, be it organic life or PC components....
> 
> I too have a ton of parts lying around as well, and thats partially my point. I just have trouble actually witnessing/hearing about a pump simply stopping one day and thus the subsequent owner going "well, it was PRETTY old, im just going to toss it...." I just have trouble envisioning that. Im not saying it wouldn't happen, because obviously it would, but your exact current scenario is a perfect example. Chances are, your NOT going to wait until it just dies one day, chances are that your going to replace it before then.


Fair enough.
I am probably going to change it before it dies. But how do I know when?








I know the pump is rated 50.000 hours MBTF and/or 5 years. But it will probably run longer than 5 years. If I take a high average my system runs 12 hours a day (which it won't most of the time), 12 hours times 365 days times 5 years = 21.900 hours. So theoretically it should run 10 years.

See my above edit btw.


----------



## Nichismo

ah thats exactly what I was getting at to, i was wondering where you got your 4 year number from because I remembered that 50,000 hour operation life label too.

EDIT: you got the jist of things haha

Perhaps im over emphasizing my own system too, as mine is a bit different from what most people use, at least from what ive seen. Im also very "proud" (for lack of a better term) of my pump/tanks as they are huge features of my rig and were big investments, not just financially but they were alot of work to get installed properly. lol


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> ah thats exactly what I was getting at to, i was wondering where you got your 4 year number from because I remembered that 50,000 hour operation life label too.
> 
> EDIT: you got the jist of things haha


I should just keep what I have. If it ain't broken don't fix it, right?
It's just that I am over concerned sometimes. Also the perfectionist in me I guess.

Somehow I do like doing calculations. Maybe I should switch careers.









After reading a review it seems like the 50x would be more of a side-grade (if not down) in my current setup.
Here is a picture of the review (thanks to @geggeg for writing this review back then).


This test was with a loop of just over 3 psi drop (mine is 2.94) so it should be comparable.
D5 shoving ~35dBA and the 50x ~38dBA.

Even if I were to aim for 1.5GPM the 50x would be horrid on the ears (I'm very sensitive to noise). And then I might just as well grab two D5 pumps as serial would be necessary anyway.

edit:
I'm lazy, sorry. Do you have some pictures of the proud-worthy reservoir/pump(s)?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> ah thats exactly what I was getting at to, i was wondering where you got your 4 year number from because I remembered that 50,000 hour operation life label too.
> 
> EDIT: you got the jist of things haha
> 
> Perhaps im over emphasizing my own system too, as mine is a bit different from what most people use, at least from what ive seen. Im also very "proud" (for lack of a better term) of my pump/tanks as they are huge features of my rig and were big investments, not just financially but they were alot of work to get installed properly. lol


It's actually "Gist"









TCO


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I should just keep what I have. If it ain't broken don't fix it, right?
> It's just that I am over concerned sometimes. Also the perfectionist in me I guess.
> 
> Somehow I do like doing calculations. Maybe I should switch careers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading a review it seems like the 50x would be more of a side-grade (if not down) in my current setup.
> Here is a picture of the review (thanks to @geggeg for writing this review back then).
> 
> This test was with a loop of just over 3 psi drop (mine is 2.94) so it should be comparable.
> D5 shoving ~35dBA and the 50x ~38dBA.
> 
> Even if I were to aim for 1.5GPM the 50x would be horrid on the ears (I'm very sensitive to noise). And then I might just as well grab two D5 pumps as serial would be necessary anyway.
> 
> edit:
> I'm lazy, sorry. Do you have some pictures of the proud-worthy reservoir/pump(s)?


if I were you I would definately stick with the D5, I personally cant see anything being an upgrade from it. How is yours configured?

Heres a few pics of my pumps, im running a dual loop configuration in my build, so dual DDC for each loop. Ive always loved Bitspower reservoirs and pump accessories, so when they released their Magic cube DDC top that can be connected serially for multi-pump systems, I knew right away what I was going to go for with my build. However there was an issue with the kit for connecting 2 pumps, the o-ring that went inbetween the two pump tops was way too small and it leaked as a result. I was really upset, but eventually I was able to fit a thicker o-ring (with a TON of effort I might add) inbetween and its worked magnificently since.

These things are heavy too, getting them mounted wasnt easy either, theres no where near as many DDC mounting accessories and components out there as there are for the D5.








D5 to me seems to be much more popular, so ive been curious as to when ill see someone using a configuration like this







I really wished Bitspower didn't change the Black Sparkle mod kits for the D5s, the past version where it was chromed and shiny was absolutely beautiful.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's actually "Gist"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


ah, thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> if I were you I would definately stick with the D5, I personally cant see anything being an upgrade from it. How is yours configured?
> 
> Heres a few pics of my pumps, im running a dual loop configuration in my build,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> so dual DDC for each loop. Ive always loved Bitspower reservoirs and pump accessories, so when they released their Magic cube DDC top that can be connected serially for multi-pump systems, I knew right away what I was going to go for with my build. However there was an issue with the kit for connecting 2 pumps, the o-ring that went inbetween the two pump tops was way too small and it leaked as a result. I was really upset, but eventually I was able to fit a thicker o-ring (with a TON of effort I might add) inbetween and its worked magnificently since.
> 
> These things are heavy too, getting them mounted wasnt easy either, theres no where near as many DDC mounting accessories and components out there as there are for the D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D5 to me seems to be much more popular, so ive been curious as to when ill see someone using a configuration like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wished Bitspower didn't change the Black Sparkle mod kits for the D5s, the past version where it was chromed and shiny was absolutely beautiful.....
> ah, thanks


I had no Idea you were running 4 DDC pumps in that build. Interesting!

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> *I have always believed that the OEM watercooling pumps (specifically the DDC and D5 variations) have always been "overkill" for typical loops*, however thats obviously all relative.
> 
> That being said, I really have a hard time picturing a pump failing out of pure longevity. Now I dont necessarily want to encourage you to simply wait until your pump randomly stops working.... but then again, if you aren't really keen on the idea of buying a new pump and doing the work to replace it, id say wait.
> 
> As far as flow goes, refer to my first statement. I personally believe pressure is more important, but only by a little. They obviously have close relativity in regards to how they effect one another.
> 
> I hate the term "overkill." Hate using it even more.
> 
> haha


And yet you run 2 DDC's for an SLI setup and another pair for just the CPU and a ram block?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> *I have always believed that the OEM watercooling pumps (specifically the DDC and D5 variations) have always been "overkill" for typical loops*, however thats obviously all relative.
> 
> That being said, I really have a hard time picturing a pump failing out of pure longevity. Now I dont necessarily want to encourage you to simply wait until your pump randomly stops working.... but then again, if you aren't really keen on the idea of buying a new pump and doing the work to replace it, id say wait.
> 
> As far as flow goes, refer to my first statement. I personally believe pressure is more important, but only by a little. They obviously have close relativity in regards to how they effect one another.
> 
> I hate the term "overkill." Hate using it even more.
> 
> haha
> 
> 
> 
> *And yet you run 2 DDC's for an SLI setup and another pair for just the CPU and a ram block*?
Click to expand...

In larger cases with plenty of space, I can see multiple pumps as an aesthetics decision, as opposed to any hydraulics based need for them.

Pretty much the same thing as expecting dual reservoirs in an SMA8 build, it just looks nicer, whether it's a single or dual loop.

I mean if you're going to call out dual pumps over singles as overkill, and dual loops over a single in an SLi build as overkill, . . .

Then why not call out nearly all custom loops over AiO's for overkill as well . . . . it's the same idea . . . more than necessary to perform a function . .

Because the looks are often as, and sometimes more, important to the builder than simply meeting a need.

You, above most anyone here, know how individualized aesthetics are, . . .

That remark just seems a wee bit too ad hominem and petty.

Darlene


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And yet you run 2 DDC's for an SLI setup and another pair for just the CPU and a ram block?


facepalm.jpg

theres a reason why I used quotations around _overkill_, and then in the same post, I complained about having to use the term overkill, and how I generally hate it all together....There was a point I was attempting to articulate

Its funny you bold that part, but literally right after that I said "_however its obviously all relative_" and its not just a cpu and a ram block. Its actually 4 waterblocks, with an extremely sophisticated crystal link setup, I literally went with 90 degree bends from start to finish.

This is my previous build where I used only 2 DDC:


Make no mistake, anyone with a build this size and with these components would have been using D5's for sure. Since I upgraded my pump setup, the change was MASSIVE, it suprised even me. Granted there was a few other small changes I made, but the bulk of it was due to the pump upgrade.

I dont know why but due to some peoples comments, the DDC is underrated, and my setup performs extremely well. Ive gotten some flak for this setup, and I remember when JamesWalt1 did his Robocop build with a similar pump configuration, the same thing happened. But both me and James are able to say weve actually tried both and know for certain which we prefer.

Good lord, my hate for the term overkill has never been this high. God forbid I decide to use it 1 time and it backfires this bad......


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> facepalm.jpg
> 
> theres a reason why I used quotations around _overkill_, and then in the same post, I complained about having to use the term overkill, and how I generally hate it all together....There was a point I was attempting to articulate
> 
> Its funny you bold that part, but literally right after that I said "_however its obviously all relative_" and its not just a cpu and a ram block. Its actually 4 waterblocks, with an extremely sophisticated crystal link setup, I literally went with 90 degree bends from start to finish.
> 
> *This is my previous build where I used only 2 DDC:*
> 
> 
> Make no mistake, anyone with a build this size and with these components would have been using D5's for sure. Since I upgraded my pump setup, the change was MASSIVE, it suprised even me. Granted there was a few other small changes I made, but the bulk of it was due to the pump upgrade.
> 
> I dont know why but due to some peoples comments, the DDC is underrated, and my setup performs extremely well. Ive gotten some flak for this setup, and I remember when JamesWalt1 did his Robocop build with a similar pump configuration, the same thing happened. But both me and James are able to say weve actually tried both and know for certain which we prefer.
> 
> Good lord, my hate for the term overkill has never been this high. God forbid I decide to use it 1 time and it backfires this bad......


But That is really all you "Needed" I guess you could say.

My SMA8 has a single DDC to run each loop as well. Pushing Fluid in one loop through 2 rads (480, 240), 2 GPU Blocks. The Other loop is powered by one DDC through the CPU Block and 2 rads (480, 240) as well.

TCO


----------



## Nichismo

Yeah but I was also concerned with the large reservoirs bearing all that coolant down onto the pumps, and then on top of that I wasn't using rotary fittings for the angles like I am now, so I was certain that there could be alot of room for improvement. Not to mention the redundancy I have now as well, peace of mind is important to me









I must say also that as far as the SLI loop goes, in the back of the motherboard wall where all the cable routing is, there is a Y fitting with quick disconnects coming out of both ends. Since there is only a 40mm 240 rad with only 2 fans in push, I set the loop up like this so I could expand it with an external radiator box, which im in the process of building right now. I havn't even had the chance to OC my GPUs at all yet because I wanted to finish this first.

Best of all though is my CPU temps have never been this incredibly low. Im comfortable at 4300mhz and even under 100% load in Prime95 I barely go over 40C. Even at my highest OC of 4705mhz temps barely rose higher than that.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's actually "Gist"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The Correcting One has spoken.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> In larger cases with plenty of space, I can see multiple pumps as an aesthetics decision, as opposed to any hydraulics based need for them.
> 
> Pretty much the same thing as expecting dual reservoirs in an SMA8 build, it just looks nicer, whether it's a single or dual loop.
> 
> I mean if you're going to call out dual pumps over singles as overkill, and dual loops over a single in an SLi build as overkill, . . .
> 
> Then why not call out nearly all custom loops over AiO's for overkill as well . . . . it's the same idea . . . more than necessary to perform a function . .
> 
> Because the looks are often as, and sometimes more, important to the builder than simply meeting a need.
> 
> You, above most anyone here, know how individualized aesthetics are, . . .
> 
> That remark just seems a wee bit too ad hominem and petty.
> 
> Darlene


Sorry,No. Using 2 pumps to drive a CPU and a RAM block is MASSIVE D Trump levels of overkill.using 2 pumps to drive a WHOLE system is overkill but well within reason.....

My comment was more about the hypocrisy of saying normal DDC/D5 pumps are overkill but then go on to show 4 DDC's in a basic loop,aesthetics were not mentioned at all and,as you say,are individual to the user.
Im not knocking DDC's.they are good pumps in their own right and they look boss in those BP tops,it was all about the flip flop in that comment...not his pump choice or quantity.


----------



## taowulf

And here I thought this was overkill.net.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> And here I thought this was overkill.net.


Its never been overkill.net....

Good 'engineering' ie, overclocking,programming,waterloops..or whatever,is about efficiency,not brute force.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry,No. Using 2 pumps to drive a CPU and a RAM block is MASSIVE D Trump levels of overkill.using 2 pumps to drive a WHOLE system is overkill but well within reason.....
> 
> My comment was more about the hypocrisy of saying normal DDC/D5 pumps are overkill but then go on to show 4 DDC's in a basic loop,aesthetics were not mentioned at all and,as you say,are individual to the user.
> Im not knocking DDC's.they are good pumps in their own right and they look boss in those BP tops,it was all about the flip flop in that comment...not his pump choice or quantity.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its never been overkill.net....
> 
> Good 'engineering' ie, overclocking,programming,waterloops..or whatever,is about efficiency,not brute force.


Im the guy whos using the 4 pumps dude, so you can talk to me, rather than just ignoring my posts and reasoning entirely....










flip flopping? wow, just wow.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Im the guy whos using the 4 pumps dude, so you can talk to me, rather than just ignoring my posts and reasoning entirely....


I wasnt ignoring you,I was talking to Diva....which doesn't entitle you to act like one. I read your reasoning,I didnt feel the need to comment on it.

'Extremely sophisticated' Lol.......Dude,that config is not some arcane methodology,its tube and fittings. Looks great too.
Quote:


> Im also very "proud" (for lack of a better term) of my pump/tanks as they are huge features of my rig and were big investments, not just financially but they were alot of work to get installed properly. lol


Ah,this explains the indignant posting...
Your config is up up you,I have no problem with what you have done,my comment,as already,explained was the contradiction in your post....."Doesnt like the term overkill,posts massive overkill pumping solution"

There. Happy now?


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wasnt ignoring you,I was talking to Diva....which doesn't entitle you to act like one. I read your reasoning,I didnt feel the need to comment on it.
> 
> 'Extremely sophisticated' Lol.......Dude,that config is not some arcane methodology,its tube and fittings. Looks great too.
> 
> There. Happy now?


lol wow to see someone of your stature (at least on this forum) acting so immature and cynical.....

I like that Diva comment BTW, very clever....

yeah just tubing and fittings







Just the fact that you refer to it as a "cpu and a ram block" when theres 4 blocks there speaks for itself.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> lol wow to see someone of your stature (at least on this forum) acting so immature and cynical.....
> 
> *I like that Diva comment BTW, very clever.*...


I know and it comes so easy too...

Its not immaturity,its my opinion,you dont have to like it either. Perhaps you should add some levity to your life instead of righteous indignation?










EDIT: I didnt look too closely at your CPU loop.a pair of ram blocks and a VRM block is going to add nigh on nothing restriction wise so it makes little odds either way.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know and it comes so easy too...
> 
> Its not immaturity,its my opinion,you dont have to like it either. Perhaps you should add some levity to your life instead of righteous indignation?


lol unlike you, my life exists outside this forum.

My sole reason here is for discussion of watercooling and overclocking, so opinions are encouraged.

and yes, its immaturity. You have yet to state any one opinion to me, all youve done is made snide remarks


----------



## Bogga

Quick question for you who know a bit more than I...

I've been thinking on where to pu my drain and temp sensor. I will be having a 480 rad lying down in the bottom of the case and was thinking of putting the drain and the temp like this



"Vatten in och ut" does of course mean "Water in and out"... I guess/hope this will work and cause no problems?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumX*
> 
> Hi guys, I have an EK-RES X3 150 reservoir which I would like to mount at the back of my Corsair 350D on the outside behind the 120mm exhaust fan. Problem is a can't seem to find a bracket that can make this possible.
> 
> Does anybody know of something like this? It will need to create a standoff distance of about 20mm above the fan holes also since there is an edge around the fan mounting area at the back.


If you are worried about aesthetics/airflow maybe a fan spacer and pump mount.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> lol unlike you, my life exists outside this forum.
> 
> My sole reason here is for discussion of watercooling and overclocking, so opinions are encouraged.
> 
> and yes, its immaturity. You have yet to state any one opinion to me, all youve done is made snide remarks


Ooooh,I have no life you say?

Now who is being snide?

Im done with replying to you now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Quick question for you who know a bit more than I...
> 
> I've been thinking on where to pu my drain and temp sensor. I will be having a 480 rad lying down in the bottom of the case and was thinking of putting the drain and the temp like this
> 
> 
> 
> "Vatten in och ut" does of course mean "Water in and out"... I guess/hope this will work and cause no problems?


No problem there,remember to get a stop plug for the drain if you are using a valve,they sometimes drip.


----------



## eucalyptus

Okay guys, I better start working with all my new parts from Alphacool









I have 2x 560mm radiators that I need to flush clean - how do I do it??

Last time, I really didn't flush my 2x EK XE 120mm rads and yeah, my reservoirs are full of small stuff









Tried to google and watch youtube but it seems that there isn't a complete guide anywhere, why?

I don't want to use mayhem blitz or something like that. I have seen people mention distilled water and vinegar. Can I use normal boiled tap water with vinegar and then just flush a last time with distilled water?

Well, to keep it topic at the same time, here is a picture of a few parts Aquatuning sent me


----------



## B NEGATIVE

While we are sharing pics again..

The roughing cutouts have been done,now to get the res made for the front and a more form fitting cutout for the GPU terminals/SLI bridge. I will machine that later today I think.....

After that...PAINT TIME!

I love the way I can see a lot of the hardware from 3 sides,so much so that clear coolant maybe the way forward.









5mm clearance from the top of the case to the GPU's......

So this is the rough clearance cutout,there will be a machined plate going full length that will have a closer tolerance of around .5mm.










And the block just fills one side....


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay guys, I better start working with all my new parts from Alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2x 560mm radiators that I need to flush clean - how do I do it??
> 
> Last time, I really didn't flush my 2x EK XE 120mm rads and yeah, my reservoirs are full of small stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to google and watch youtube but it seems that there isn't a complete guide anywhere, why?
> 
> I don't want to use mayhem blitz or something like that. I have seen people mention distilled water and vinegar. Can I use normal boiled tap water with vinegar and then just flush a last time with distilled water?
> 
> Well, to keep it topic at the same time, here is a picture of a few parts Aquatuning sent me


A lot of info out there. I used 30 percent vineger in distilled water 2 flushes first one u let sit 5 mins or so. Then I use 30 percent baking soda to distilled water two flushes to neutralize the acidity then 2 flushes with distilled water


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No problem there,remember to get a stop plug for the drain if you are using a valve,they sometimes drip.


Thanks for replying! Yes, I've bought a stop plug so that wont be an issue








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay guys, I better start working with all my new parts from Alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2x 560mm radiators that I need to flush clean - how do I do it??
> 
> Last time, I really didn't flush my 2x EK XE 120mm rads and yeah, my reservoirs are full of small stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to google and watch youtube but it seems that there isn't a complete guide anywhere, why?
> 
> I don't want to use mayhem blitz or something like that. I have seen people mention distilled water and vinegar. Can I use normal boiled tap water with vinegar and then just flush a last time with distilled water?
> 
> Well, to keep it topic at the same time, here is a picture of a few parts Aquatuning sent me


I'll be doing the same shortly with my new 360 and 480 rads... been googling a lot as well. Not comfy with using vinegar as well. I went to Biltema and bought 8L of distilled water, which I intend to boil, fill up half of the rads, shake and empty a couple of times...


----------



## dmfree88

Correct me if I am wrong but after some research it appears pump speed is irrelevant if you have already overcome any restrictions? Isn't the only time you need to add another pump or use a bigger one is if you have too many components and it is reducing flow beyond your pumps ability? So if your pump has multiple settings and it works fine on the lowest setting then you have no reason to turn it up, right?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong but after some research it appears pump speed is irrelevant if you have already overcome any restrictions? Isn't the only time you need to add another pump or use a bigger one is if you have too many components and it is reducing flow beyond your pumps ability? So if your pump has multiple settings and it works fine on the lowest setting then you have no reason to turn it up, right?


If you get 1GPM then you're golden it seems to be the sweet spot in flow, any less has a negative effect any higher isn't adding to your cooling.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And yet you run 2 DDC's for an SLI setup and another pair for just the CPU and a ram block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> facepalm.jpg
> 
> theres a reason why I used quotations around _overkill_, and then in the same post, I complained about having to use the term overkill, and how I generally hate it all together....There was a point I was attempting to articulate
> 
> Its funny you bold that part, but literally right after that I said "_however its obviously all relative_" and its not just a cpu and a ram block. Its actually 4 waterblocks, with an extremely sophisticated crystal link setup, I literally went with 90 degree bends from start to finish.
> 
> This is my previous build where I used only 2 DDC:
> 
> 
> Make no mistake, anyone with a build this size and with these components would have been using D5's for sure. Since I upgraded my pump setup, the change was MASSIVE, it suprised even me. Granted there was a few other small changes I made, but the bulk of it was due to the pump upgrade.
> 
> I dont know why but due to some peoples comments, the DDC is underrated, and my setup performs extremely well. Ive gotten some flak for this setup, and I remember when JamesWalt1 did his Robocop build with a similar pump configuration, the same thing happened. But both me and James are able to say weve actually tried both and know for certain which we prefer.
> 
> Good lord, my hate for the term overkill has never been this high. God forbid I decide to use it 1 time and it backfires this bad......
Click to expand...

Idk y but it went from most prefer d5 but both are good pumps to d5onry all else inferior.

I prefer ddcs bit frankly I like the micro pumps recently and may have to have some fun with those soon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Quick question for you who know a bit more than I...
> 
> I've been thinking on where to pu my drain and temp sensor. I will be having a 480 rad lying down in the bottom of the case and was thinking of putting the drain and the temp like this
> 
> 
> 
> "Vatten in och ut" does of course mean "Water in and out"... I guess/hope this will work and cause no problems?


That will work fine assuming you have a 4+ port rad
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay guys, I better start working with all my new parts from Alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2x 560mm radiators that I need to flush clean - how do I do it??
> 
> Last time, I really didn't flush my 2x EK XE 120mm rads and yeah, my reservoirs are full of small stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to google and watch youtube but it seems that there isn't a complete guide anywhere, why?
> 
> I don't want to use mayhem blitz or something like that. I have seen people mention distilled water and vinegar. Can I use normal boiled tap water with vinegar and then just flush a last time with distilled water?
> 
> Well, to keep it topic at the same time, here is a picture of a few parts Aquatuning sent me


No right or wrong way some may shake some boil water some use straight from tap others distilled only.

As for me i have something made that attaches to a water hose that I put on my hot water heater. Put the other side down a drain flush one side then reverse the flow and flush the other direction.

Some use vinegar others lemon juice others water .

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> While we are sharing pics again..
> 
> The roughing cutouts have been done,now to get the res made for the front and a more form fitting cutout for the GPU terminals/SLI bridge. I will machine that later today I think.....
> 
> After that...PAINT TIME!
> 
> I love the way I can see a lot of the hardware from 3 sides,so much so that clear coolant maybe the way forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5mm clearance from the top of the case to the GPU's......
> 
> So this is the rough clearance cutout,there will be a machined plate going full length that will have a closer tolerance of around .5mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the block just fills one side....


that is pretty awesome


----------



## TheCautiousOne

People sure are passionate about the DDC v D5 discussion huh?











I seemed to have missed the firefight, narrowly.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If you get 1GPM then you're golden it seems to be the sweet spot in flow, any less has a negative effect any higher isn't adding to your cooling.


Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.

@eucalyptus search Martinliquidlab and cleaning rad and you will find good info. No need for vinegar or lemon juice. Just hot water shake drain method. Do that until the water coming out of the rad is clean and without debris. Martin method is the one Megaman described. Put the rad on the faucet and let warm water run through it (just be aware of tap house pressure so you don't damage your rad).


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> People sure are passionate about the DDC v D5 discussion huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seemed to have missed the firefight, narrowly.
> 
> TCO


You're just too... _Cautious._

UNRELATED TO THAT, I'm trying to get an idea of if my radiators would be "good" for this loop. I've already ordered my i7-6950X (140W TDP) CPU. I planned on using two GTX 1080's, but, since the new Titan X is releasing so soon, I might order that. They're suspect to be 250W TDP, so, I'd imagine similar temperatures to a 980 Ti or the original Titan X. Do you guys think that the GPU's at stock clock, with an i7-6950X OC'd to 4.0GHz (maybe 1.3V max if I can't get their on stock voltage) will be fine with an EK SE 360 and EK PE 360, using six Noctua NF-F12's?

I'd like to keep CPU temperatures under 65C at load, and same for the GPU's. I don't think that'll be achievable with the cooling though. Basically 240mm per component.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.


So basically what I said is correct then? So long as your pump overcomes the resistance of the blocks and still flows at a reasonable rate (not trickle) then it should work fine? So setting a pump to the lowest setting assuming it actually pumps would be better for pump longevity and get the same results? I am just trying to understand how everything works.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.
> 
> @eucalyptus search Martinliquidlab and cleaning rad and you will find good info. No need for vinegar or lemon juice. Just hot water shake drain method. Do that until the water coming out of the rad is clean and without debris. Martin method is the one Megaman described. Put the rad on the faucet and let warm water run through it (just be aware of tap house pressure so you don't damage your rad).


And all of this,chapter and verse.

There is no need for acid cleaning,the flux which is the problem, is water-soluble.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.
> 
> @eucalyptus search Martinliquidlab and cleaning rad and you will find good info. No need for vinegar or lemon juice. Just hot water shake drain method. Do that until the water coming out of the rad is clean and without debris. Martin method is the one Megaman described. Put the rad on the faucet and let warm water run through it (just be aware of tap house pressure so you don't damage your rad).


Ah missed so much of what I said was right at least apart from 0.5gpm-0.7gpm.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah missed so much of what I said was right at least apart from 0.5gpm-0.7gpm.


Yes, most of what you said is correct. But the lower flow part is important because not always you will have the capability of using a single d5 or ddc and get beyond or at 1 GPM figure and this can drive rookies nuts and end up with people expending more money that is not really necessary to run a good healthy loop.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> A lot of info out there. I used 30 percent vineger in distilled water 2 flushes first one u let sit 5 mins or so. Then I use 30 percent baking soda to distilled water two flushes to neutralize the acidity then 2 flushes with distilled water


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I'll be doing the same shortly with my new 360 and 480 rads... been googling a lot as well. Not comfy with using vinegar as well. I went to Biltema and bought 8L of distilled water, which I intend to boil, fill up half of the rads, shake and empty a couple of times...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No right or wrong way some may shake some boil water some use straight from tap others distilled only.
> 
> As for me i have something made that attaches to a water hose that I put on my hot water heater. Put the other side down a drain flush one side then reverse the flow and flush the other direction.
> 
> Some use vinegar others lemon juice others water .
> that is pretty awesome


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @eucalyptus search Martinliquidlab and cleaning rad and you will find good info. No need for vinegar or lemon juice. Just hot water shake drain method. Do that until the water coming out of the rad is clean and without debris. Martin method is the one Megaman described. Put the rad on the faucet and let warm water run through it (just be aware of tap house pressure so you don't damage your rad).


Thanks guys







Got an idea what to do now







Awesome!

*Also found Martinliquidlab cleaning tutorial


----------



## rolldog

I'm really interested in adding a light box to my new build, especially one like this, which is a light box with built-in waterlines. If my case doesn't have a divider between the top and bottom, how could I rig something up to keep it in place? I'm using a Caselabs case, which has holes around the edges for additional accessory mounting, so do you think there's a way to put a few screws around on each side so it can sit like a shelf? How difficult do you think it would be to cut waterlines into the acrylic without a CNC machine? Would it even be possible?


----------



## Mega Man

I am sure you could do it with a Dremel
By hand.

But easy is not the word that would come to mind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.
> 
> 
> 
> So basically what I said is correct then? So long as your pump overcomes the resistance of the blocks and still flows at a reasonable rate (not trickle) then it should work fine? So setting a pump to the lowest setting assuming it actually pumps would be better for pump longevity and get the same results? I am just trying to understand how everything works.
Click to expand...

People need to stop assuming the slower a motor spins the longer the motor lasts. Assuming they are designed properly heat is the biggest obstacles they encounter. Speed plays a very very very minor role if any


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I'm really interested in adding a light box to my new build, especially one like this, which is a light box with built-in waterlines. If my case doesn't have a divider between the top and bottom, how could I rig something up to keep it in place? I'm using a Caselabs case, which has holes around the edges for additional accessory mounting, so do you think there's a way to put a few screws around on each side so it can sit like a shelf? How difficult do you think it would be to cut waterlines into the acrylic without a CNC machine? Would it even be possible?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You could add L-brackets of some sort I am sure (less than $1 at home depot). Likely wont be easy to cut the acryllic but a dremmel or a router might do the job.

Post thought:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiETlYskTrY

could just make a actual box or something out of acrylic (sealed better than the one in the video) then turn it into a reservoir of sorts with lights (doesn't necessarily need to function as a reservoir, could just be a pass-through with lights). Can fill in the box with something to make pathways so it looks cool. Then seal down the top and drill for fittings wherever you prefer. Likely be easier to create something out of a box then it would be to try to carve something into a block.


----------



## dmfree88

Sorry double post but just saw Mega Man's post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> People need to stop assuming the slower a motor spins the longer the motor lasts. Assuming they are designed properly heat is the biggest obstacles they encounter. Speed plays a very very very minor role if any


Most people are going to assume less revolutions = longer lifespan. The same can be said for an car engine, lower rpm = less gas use (depending on resistance) = less rubbing of parts = longer lifespan. It only makes sense that a spinning part would last longer when going slower. Only so many spins before the inner seal or impeller is worn. The same can be said for your observation if heat is the biggest obstacle then obviously a pump that is designed properly should be able to handle higher temperatures. However the amount of spins it is making is still going to increase on higher settings and therefore theoretically should decrease lifespan no matter how good the pump is. Maybe not by much but it has to effect it. I doubt anyone has 10+ pumps to do a un-subjective test but it is only logical that a seal would last longer with less revolutions.

Post thought: That being said I do know that some motors like a non-pwm case fan motor for example actually don't necessarily last longer at lower RPM because they are being supplied less voltage and causing extra heat. I am not sure if that is the case for pumps when they change speeds if it is done the same way it might actually decrease life at lower settings but this is not something I would know. My point though really is nearly everyone is going to assume that lower settings is better for longevity whether it is or it isn't because it just seems to make sense.


----------



## Mega Man

And I will keep stating they are wrong


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And I will keep stating they are wrong


Proof? Because with the DDC,speed equals heat which,according to you,shortens the lifespan.

Lower speed preserves bearings too.

I'm interested to hear your thought process on this.


----------



## dmfree88

I do know when a air pump encounters too much resistance on a low setting it can increase heat output and can burn up a pump but if it is pumping steadily running at a higher setting it runs cooler. This would be if you encounter a resistance issue though, if the pump is running smoothly on low it only seems logical it would be better for it. I would assume a water pump is pretty much the same.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Idk y but it went from most prefer d5 but both are good pumps to d5onry all else inferior.
> 
> I prefer ddcs bit frankly I like the micro pumps recently and may have to have some fun with those soon
> 
> As for me i have something made that attaches to a water hose that I put on my hot water heater. Put the other side down a drain flush one side then reverse the flow and flush the other direction.
> 
> Some use vinegar others lemon juice others water .


I actually (indirectly) started the thing going again.
Asked people about the lifespan of my D5, went on to think about switching to a DDC... Then posted some stuff from a review of the Swiftech mcp50x Geggeg placed a while ago with calculations of my loop restriction (~3psi drop). Then found out that the 50x alone wouldn't even help much compared to my d5 currently. So dual's were needed..... and then the overkill topic started rolling again. Making the Correcting One join in. And then the party was complete.









I've actually also used the tap to hose to rad thing before.
Beware to advice people to do that: don't run high pressure, you may damage the tubes in the radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> People sure are passionate about the DDC v D5 discussion huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seemed to have missed the firefight, narrowly.
> 
> TCO


See above.

I was actually honestly interested and serious.
Made calculations and all and wanted some advice on whether to change my d5 or not.

But I have to agree that the contradiction of "overkill man" was somewhat funny.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> So basically what I said is correct then? So long as your pump overcomes the resistance of the blocks and still flows at a reasonable rate (not trickle) then it should work fine? So setting a pump to the lowest setting assuming it actually pumps would be better for pump longevity and get the same results? I am just trying to understand how everything works.


What is your criteria for "actually pumps"?
The point where it barely moves water?

I don't have actual data to back this up but I don't think the pump will last longer if set on a lower speed (bearing should last longer theoretically). Like said before, above a certain point the gains will diminish. At some point you will get a very small performance increase (lower delta) but that will be cancelled out by the increased heat dump from the pump using more power.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And all of this,chapter and verse.
> 
> There is no need for acid cleaning,the flux which is the problem, is water-soluble.


Agreed.
I did flush new rads with just distilled.

However, I do clean them(periodic) with acid (diluted) to get gunk/dye out.


----------



## Ceadderman

On the question of when to replace pumps...

This for me is a twofold answer.

1)Whenever you like

2)When it dies.

Personally, before I run any pump; It's best to have one on the way or already on the shelf should something(heaven forbid) go wrong. This way you're not sitting on the sideline and grumpy from lack of being connected.

On the issue of heat build up with both, lower RPM equates more heat. Just like fans they require a reasonable amount of power to limit the RPMs. Sorry if I'm not technically savvy regarding specific verbage, but motors are delicate beasts and putting less power to the drive is just as bad as putting a maximum load to it. Somewhere in the middle is probably the best in my mind. I could be wrong and defer to people with more experience than I have, but...

An can we just agree that one has more head pressure and the other has better flow rates? Head pressure being the highest point that water will achieve straight up and Flowrate being how many Gallons/Liters per minute the pump will flow. DDC and D5 in this order. There is nothing at all wrong with DDC pumps and they've actually started pushing into the D5 marketshare. I remember when the flavour of the day was the D5.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> On the question of when to replace pumps...
> 
> This for me is a twofold answer.
> 
> 1)Whenever you like
> 
> 2)When it dies.
> 
> Personally, before I run any pump; It's best to have one on the way or already on the shelf should something(heaven forbid) go wrong. This way you're not sitting on the sideline and grumpy from lack of being connected.
> 
> On the issue of heat build up with both, lower RPM equates more heat. Just like fans they require a reasonable amount of power to limit the RPMs. Sorry if I'm not technically savvy regarding specific verbage, but motors are delicate beasts and putting less power to the drive is just as bad as putting a maximum load to it. Somewhere in the middle is probably the best in my mind. I could be wrong and defer to people with more experience than I have, but...
> 
> An can we just agree that one has more head pressure and the other has better flow rates? Head pressure being the highest point that water will achieve straight up and Flowrate being how many Gallons/Liters per minute the pump will flow. DDC and D5 in this order. There is nothing at all wrong with DDC pumps and they've actually started pushing into the D5 marketshare. I remember when the flavour of the day was the D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Explain how lower RPM = More heat? 18w DDC's require a heatsink to be run flat out for extended periods and yet doesnt for low speed? If its voltage controlled,less RPM means less power draw and less rotational friction. How does that equate to more heat?


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Explain how lower RPM = More heat? 18w DDC's require a heatsink to be run flat out for extended periods and yet doesnt for low speed? If its voltage controlled,less RPM means less power draw and less rotational friction. How does that equate to more heat?


The general idea would be that as the water moves through the housing it cools the motor. More fluid, more cooling, but of course it doesn't always work out that way. Depends a lot on how the motor and housing are constructed for removing said heat more than anything else.


----------



## ruffhi

I don't know about pumps but I hate driving my car when it wants to be at 1000 RPMs ... I am forever dropping back a gear because a) I like a more responsive drive and b) I don't want my car engine to labor.

This may ... or may not ... apply to pumps.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> The general idea would be that as the water moves through the housing it cools the motor. More fluid, more cooling, but of course it doesn't always work out that way. Depends a lot on how the motor and housing are constructed for removing said heat more than anything else.


In the case of the DDC it doesn't work, DDC's are passively cooled by the housing or heatsink. D5's are actively cooled by the fluid.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> The general idea would be that as the water moves through the housing it cools the motor. More fluid, more cooling, but of course it doesn't always work out that way. Depends a lot on how the motor and housing are constructed for removing said heat more than anything else.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> In the case of the DDC it doesn't work, DDC's are passively cooled by the housing or heatsink. D5's are actively cooled by the fluid.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> On the question of when to replace pumps...
> 
> This for me is a twofold answer.
> 
> 1)Whenever you like
> 
> 2)When it dies.
> 
> Personally, before I run any pump; It's best to have one on the way or already on the shelf should something(heaven forbid) go wrong. This way you're not sitting on the sideline and grumpy from lack of being connected.
> 
> On the issue of heat build up with both, lower RPM equates more heat. Just like fans they require a reasonable amount of power to limit the RPMs. Sorry if I'm not technically savvy regarding specific verbage, but motors are delicate beasts and putting less power to the drive is just as bad as putting a maximum load to it. Somewhere in the middle is probably the best in my mind. I could be wrong and defer to people with more experience than I have, but...
> 
> An can we just agree that one has more head pressure and the other has better flow rates? Head pressure being the highest point that water will achieve straight up and Flowrate being how many Gallons/Liters per minute the pump will flow. DDC and D5 in this order. There is nothing at all wrong with DDC pumps and they've actually started pushing into the D5 marketshare. I remember when the flavour of the day was the D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Explain how lower RPM = More heat? 18w DDC's require a heatsink to be run flat out for extended periods and yet doesnt for low speed? If its voltage controlled,less RPM means less power draw and less rotational friction. How does that equate to more heat*?
Click to expand...

I couldn't make heads or tails of Ceader's word salad, but you only have to think back to the Aquaero 5 series that even for moderate loads, required water cooling or at the very least, a large passive heatsink with airflow to not overheat at mid speed ranges.

A pump with integrated electronics can be seen similarly . . . at max speeds, the heat is mostly all from the motor, but at mid ranges, while the motor doesn't make more heat, the control electronics can, and since it's all wrapped up in a single package, the exact source of the heat is irrelevant to the overall effect.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am sure you could do it with a Dremel
> By hand.
> 
> But easy is not the word that would come to mind
> People need to stop assuming the slower a motor spins the longer the motor lasts. Assuming they are designed properly heat is the biggest obstacles they encounter. Speed plays a very very very minor role if any


I was thinking about using a Drexel and a routing bit. He said the channels are 6mm deep, but the hardest part, I think, would be cutting around the channel and trying to find a custom o-ring (I know it's technically not called an o-ring on a waterblock, but it serves the same purpose) and fitting it into the grooves around the channels to prevent leaking. This guy also made a custom acrylic reservoir, which looks great in his case, and steel tubing. That must be difficult to bend.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I was thinking about using a Drexel and a routing bit. He said the channels are 6mm deep, but the hardest part, I think, would be cutting around the channel and trying to find a custom o-ring (I know it's technically not called an o-ring on a waterblock, but it serves the same purpose) and fitting it into the grooves around the channels to prevent leaking. This guy also made a custom acrylic reservoir, which looks great in his case, and steel tubing. That must be difficult to bend.


could these look any more amazing? I mean really?!? anyways, I dont know that you would want to use an "oring" type seal. I would think that using an acrylic adhesive would be the way to go but I have 0 experience making custom res's so keep that in mind.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> You could add L-brackets of some sort I am sure (less than $1 at home depot). Likely wont be easy to cut the acryllic but a dremmel or a router might do the job.
> 
> Post thought:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiETlYskTrY
> 
> could just make a actual box or something out of acrylic (sealed better than the one in the video) then turn it into a reservoir of sorts with lights (doesn't necessarily need to function as a reservoir, could just be a pass-through with lights). Can fill in the box with something to make pathways so it looks cool. Then seal down the top and drill for fittings wherever you prefer. Likely be easier to create something out of a box then it would be to try to carve something into a block.


Or put some mirror film on piece of acrylic and make an infinity box out of it. I made one to mount both of my 250mm tube reservoirs to the front of (I had spacers between the two pieces of acrylic with screws going through the spacers in the infinity box and bolted t to the back of my chassis divider), but the acrylic box started coming apart, probably because I was using acrylic for the sides of the box too.

If I had room in my case, I think it would look cool to have an infinity box large enough for both reservoirs to fit inside of. When the lights turned on, you would see reservoirs for days.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> could these look any more amazing? I mean really?!? anyways, I dont know that you would want to use an "oring" type seal. I would think that using an acrylic adhesive would be the way to go but I have 0 experience making custom res's so keep that in mind.


When I made my acrylic infinity mirror, which had acrylic on the front, back, and sides, I used some sort of acrylic joint sealer. I forgot what it was called, but it came with a high guage needle which is how the sealant was applied. The sealant was as thin as water, and if you had 2 pieces of acrylic together and applied some to the joint of both pieces of acrylic, the solution would actually work it's way further between the two pieces (even if they were stacked together with zero space between them). The solution was an adhesive, which caused a chemical reaction to blind the pieces together instead of something like glue. Once it dried, it's impossible to separate the pieces without breaking both.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I couldn't make heads or tails of Ceader's word salad, but you only have to think back to the Aquaero 5 series that even for moderate loads, required water cooling or at the very least, a large passive heatsink with airflow to not overheat at mid speed ranges.
> 
> A pump with integrated electronics can be seen similarly . . . at max speeds, the heat is mostly all from the motor, but at mid ranges, while the motor doesn't make more heat, the control electronics can, and since it's all wrapped up in a single package, the exact source of the heat is irrelevant to the overall effect.


The difference is that the Aquaero was doing the voltage regulation,the pump does not,it either runs at moderated input voltage or 12v,the PWM run at 12v constantly. The pump itself does not control voltages supplied and doesnt need to shed the excess.
The Vario...Im not entirely sure how the pot works,whether its voltage regulated or a PWM pot is unknown to me,the heat produced however doesnt change.
Your hypothesis is not reflected in RL use Darlene,you must know this from your DDC experiences? That is the classic example,fast DDC equals hot,slow DDC equals cool. A better case example than the Aquaero tbh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> When I made my acrylic infinity mirror, which had acrylic on the front, back, and sides, I used some sort of acrylic joint sealer. I forgot what it was called, but it came with a high guage needle which is how the sealant was applied. The sealant was as thin as water, and if you had 2 pieces of acrylic together and applied some to the joint of both pieces of acrylic, the solution would actually work it's way further between the two pieces (even if they were stacked together with zero space between them). The solution was an adhesive, which caused a chemical reaction to blind the pieces together instead of something like glue. Once it dried, it's impossible to separate the pieces without breaking both.


Solvent welding is my preferred method of res making,I do it a lot,you can see my method here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-finished-always-a-sad-time-when-its-over/340_20#post_21973601

The technique is welding as the materials are bonded at a molecular level.


----------



## ruffhi

Here is a youtube vid about 'gluing' acrylic together. I need to make a hidi-hole to cover cables and stuff ... so this is most appropriate timing ... thanks for the discussion.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6Ow_cBTps


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> On the question of when to replace pumps...
> 
> This for me is a twofold answer.
> 
> 1)Whenever you like
> 
> 2)When it dies.
> 
> Personally, before I run any pump; It's best to have one on the way or already on the shelf should something(heaven forbid) go wrong. This way you're not sitting on the sideline and grumpy from lack of being connected.
> 
> On the issue of heat build up with both, lower RPM equates more heat. Just like fans they require a reasonable amount of power to limit the RPMs. Sorry if I'm not technically savvy regarding specific verbage, but motors are delicate beasts and putting less power to the drive is just as bad as putting a maximum load to it. Somewhere in the middle is probably the best in my mind. I could be wrong and defer to people with more experience than I have, but...
> 
> An can we just agree that one has more head pressure and the other has better flow rates? Head pressure being the highest point that water will achieve straight up and Flowrate being how many Gallons/Liters per minute the pump will flow. DDC and D5 in this order. There is nothing at all wrong with DDC pumps and they've actually started pushing into the D5 marketshare. I remember when the flavour of the day was the D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Explain how lower RPM = More heat? 18w DDC's require a heatsink to be run flat out for extended periods and yet doesnt for low speed? If its voltage controlled,less RPM means less power draw and less rotational friction. How does that equate to more heat*?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I couldn't make heads or tails of Ceader's word salad, but you only have to think back to the Aquaero 5 series that even for moderate loads, required water cooling or at the very least, a large passive heatsink with airflow to not overheat at mid speed ranges.
> 
> *A pump with integrated electronics can be seen similarly . . . at max speeds, the heat is mostly all from the motor, but at mid ranges, while the motor doesn't make more heat, the control electronics can, and since it's all wrapped up in a single package, the exact source of the heat is irrelevant to the overall effect.*
Click to expand...

This was my line of thought rightcher. It was late and my brain wasn't cooperating. But yeah.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> While we are sharing pics again..
> 
> The roughing cutouts have been done,now to get the res made for the front and a more form fitting cutout for the GPU terminals/SLI bridge. I will machine that later today I think.....
> 
> After that...PAINT TIME!
> 
> I love the way I can see a lot of the hardware from 3 sides,so much so that clear coolant maybe the way forward.


I really like that cut out showing the SLI bridge. Looks like it was already meant to be there. You did a damn good job cramming those gigantic GPUs into that case. Looks great too. ?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The difference is that the Aquaero was doing the voltage regulation,the pump does not,it either runs at moderated input voltage or 12v,the PWM run at 12v constantly. The pump itself does not control voltages supplied and doesnt need to shed the excess.
> The Vario...Im not entirely sure how the pot works,whether its voltage regulated or a PWM pot is unknown to me,the heat produced however doesnt change.
> Your hypothesis is not reflected in RL use Darlene,you must know this from your DDC experiences? That is the classic example,fast DDC equals hot,slow DDC equals cool. A better case example than the Aquaero tbh.
> Solvent welding is my preferred method of res making,I do it a lot,you can see my method here.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-finished-always-a-sad-time-when-its-over/340_20#post_21973601
> 
> The technique is welding as the materials are bonded at a molecular level.


Yes, that's the same stuff I was referring to. It bonds at the molecular level, and it's made specifically for acrylic. The syringe comes in handy so you can apply it exactly where you need it. It bonds the acrylic pretty fast, but I think it said to let it cure for 24 hours before working with it, like putting any pressure on it, drilling screw holes with a tap, etc. I never even heard of the stuff until the place where I bought my acrylic sent me a bottle of it with the applicator (the syringe), and they sent me the Novus set for sanding and polishing, which which works very good. I usually wet sand acrylic with a high grit before using the Novus stuff.

I think I'm going to hold off on building the water channels into a piece of acrylic, which is also being used as the top of a light box. I've had so many things come up since starting starting this build, like having to put everything on hold for 6 months or so, I'm just ready to get my new parts installed and get everything running. Once everything is done, I might order some sheets of acrylic to practice making a few toys. This seems much too time consuming to make for this build, however, I will practice and build it into my rig at some point,just not now. How do you think the steel tubing was bent for his loops? It must require some serious heat to put 90 degree bends in it. That'sthr first build I've seen using steel tubing. I guess the whole glass tubing idea faded pretty quickly.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And I will keep stating they are wrong
> 
> 
> 
> Proof? Because with the DDC,speed equals heat which,according to you,shortens the lifespan.
> 
> Lower speed preserves bearings too.
> 
> I'm interested to hear your thought process on this.
Click to expand...

bearings will work fine as long as heat is kept in check.

also from the way i understand it, the ddc does not get hot, the PCB/electronics do, i could be wrong but that is what it seems to me needs cooling ?

lastly i would put that on EBKAC if said user does not properly cool the ddc can you blame the pump ?
it isnt like the heat buildup is a new thing

as to how to run them at fast speeds, heatsinks and fans work great !


----------



## Costas

Another consideration in regards to heat produced by our pumps is the restriction they are pumping in to.

On the weekend I was running 2x EK 3.2 DDC pumps coupled with a Swiftech dual top. I had both of the pumps running at 100% drive yet they were only warm even after a few hours of running. No heatsink was required....!

Reducing the restriction caused the pumps to rise in temp quickly.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Another consideration in regards to heat produced by our pumps is the restriction they are pumping in to.
> 
> On the weekend I was running 2x EK 3.2 DDC pumps coupled with a Swiftech dual top. I had both of the pumps running at 100% drive yet they were only warm even after a few hours of running. No heatsink was required....!
> 
> Reducing the restriction caused the pumps to rise in temp quickly.


Is that a typo?
Or do you mean it when you say that the pump is cooler under higher restriction?

BTW
It's nice to see how long this pump debate is stretched. Love this forum.


----------



## fakeblood

The brass has really started to come through from the brushed look I gave it and I actually quite like it. Painted the mosfet block also.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC03485_zpslfgatf7j.jpg.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> bearings will work fine as long as heat is kept in check.
> 
> also from the way i understand it, *the ddc does not get hot, the PCB/electronics do,* i could be wrong but that is what it seems to me needs cooling ?
> 
> lastly i would put that on EBKAC if said user does not properly cool the ddc can you blame the pump ?
> it isnt like the heat buildup is a new thing
> 
> as to how to run them at fast speeds, heatsinks and fans work great !


So you are saying the electronic part of the pump is not part of the DDC pump itself? That makes zero sense,they are one and the same,they are part of a pump assembly.

If the pump doesnt stay within a working temperature then yes,its the pumps fault if the application is within the working range,especially when all the heatsinks etc are an aftermarket part and not part of the OEM pump.


----------



## dmfree88

From looking at everyones opinions here I could be wrong but this is what I am getting out of it.

If the pump uses PWM to adjust speed then it gets full voltage always so there is no difference in heat output from the actual voltage supplied but increasing the speed of course can increase the heat created through more friction and peaking of motors ability.

Restriction becomes a factor because if a pump is being restricted too much it causes it to overheat (I mentioned this as well as Costas).

So my conclusion still pretty much remains the same. For longevity sake as long as you overcome the restriction of the loop and are pumping in normal range of flow a lower setting would be better. It may only extend the life a week or even a day but if you are not encountering restriction low speed is theoretically better for the pump.

On the other hand if it is voltage regulated then running at the higher end closer to the normal rated voltage of the pump would be better (taking into account restriction here as well).

As Mega-Man has mentioned this could be very minimal I have no way to know myself without testing multiple pumps which of course would require quite a few to account for variability but theoretically this all seems to make sense.


----------



## dmfree88

Also since most of the original designs of these pumps came from other uses like fishtanks I doubt they took into account high restriction which some pumps can overcome but possibly overheat due to heavy restriction. This is possibly why aftermarket heatsinks are required on some pumps? Just thinking out-loud and wondering


----------



## Costas

You guys have it backwards.... DDCs run hot with LOW restriction setups.... They run way cooler for a given speed when operating on mid to high restriction setups.

Our pumps are basically a brushless motor and nothing more.

The total heat dump from the electronics is from the driver IC and the winding loses of the motor windings. Bearing heat is a non event unless you run it dry...









To calculate heat generated you need to work out the RMS voltage across the windings.

The voltage across the windings is pulsed by the driver IC - The PWM aignal you feed in simply tells the driver IC to speed up or down and apart from that it is sort of irrelevant to the drive signal the windings receive as far as heat dissipated is concerned.

The DC input is basically converted to a PWM 3 phase AC signal which is then applied to the motor windings. Timing ( phase timing), PWM voltage applied and duty cycle must all be factored for to work out heat losses.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Is that a typo?
> Or do you mean it when you say that the pump is cooler under higher restriction?
> 
> BTW
> It's nice to see how long this pump debate is stretched. Love this forum.


Don't even get them started on Parallel vs Serial









TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Don't even get them started on Parallel vs Serial
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Oh no, don't get that started again, The Contentious One!

Here, a pump that will not overheat.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Oh no, don't get that started again, The Contentious One!
> 
> Here, a pump that will not overheat.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Contentious! Me! ? Never









Just letting people know what I've seen in the past









TCO


----------



## TSXmike

Its been a while.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> The brass has really started to come through from the brushed look I gave it and I actually quite like it. Painted the mosfet block also.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC03485_zpslfgatf7j.jpg.html


I liked fakeblood. A lot. Is that paint in the cpu after you gave it a brushed look by sanding it?


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Oh no, don't get that started again, The Contentious One!
> 
> Here, a pump that will not overheat.


Trust me, the _pump_ might not overheat, but the _pumper_ can.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Another consideration in regards to heat produced by our pumps is the restriction they are pumping in to.
> 
> On the weekend I was running 2x EK 3.2 DDC pumps coupled with a Swiftech dual top. I had both of the pumps running at 100% drive yet they were only warm even after a few hours of running. No heatsink was required....!
> 
> Reducing the restriction caused the pumps to rise in temp quickly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> You guys have it backwards.... DDCs run hot with LOW restriction setups.... They run way cooler for a given speed when operating on mid to high restriction setups.
> 
> Our pumps are basically a brushless motor and nothing more.
> 
> The total heat dump from the electronics is from the driver IC and the winding loses of the motor windings. Bearing heat is a non event unless you run it dry...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To calculate heat generated you need to work out the RMS voltage across the windings.
> 
> The voltage across the windings is pulsed by the driver IC - The PWM aignal you feed in simply tells the driver IC to speed up or down and apart from that it is sort of irrelevant to the drive signal the windings receive as far as heat dissipated is concerned.
> 
> The DC input is basically converted to a PWM 3 phase AC signal which is then applied to the motor windings. Timing ( phase timing), PWM voltage applied and duty cycle must all be factored for to work out heat losses.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And I will keep stating they are wrong
> 
> 
> 
> Proof? Because with the DDC,speed equals heat which,according to you,shortens the lifespan.
> 
> Lower speed preserves bearings too.
> 
> I'm interested to hear your thought process on this.
Click to expand...

so what you are saying is right tool for the right job? Gee who would of thought
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Is that a typo?
> Or do you mean it when you say that the pump is cooler under higher restriction?
> 
> BTW
> It's nice to see how long this pump debate is stretched. Love this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't even get them started on Parallel vs Serial
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

And all I said was both pumps are fine :/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And all I said was both pumps are fine :/














TCO


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I liked fakeblood. A lot. Is that paint in the cpu after you gave it a brushed look by sanding it?


Cheers Gab. Nope no added paint, just polished and clear coated. Just sanded down to the brass, which wasn't even my intention


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I am sorry but this might be a bit offtopic, but I did not want to start a new thread, I am moving to 2x 480mm and 1x 240mm radiator for my 6700K and titan X, but the problem is I dont have fans for the 240mm rad, would if affect the performance of the system badly, I would just add the 240 to the loop without any fans on it ? The 2x 480mm 60mm thick rads have PWM darkside gentle typhoons on them, probs gonna buy some more if I get around to it but in the meantime running it without any fans on the 240 would be ok right, I mean the rad itself without fans on it should have plenty of cooling capacity on its own, no ? The point of all the radspace for such a low power system is I can run the fans like 500-1000rpm and stll have nice temps and OC potential








( and oh SILENCE ofcourse )


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I am sorry but this might be a bit offtopic, but I did not want to start a new thread, I am moving to 2x 480mm and 1x 240mm radiator for my 6700K and titan X, but the problem is I dont have fans for the 240mm rad, would if affect the performance of the system badly, I would just add the 240 to the loop without any fans on it ? The 2x 480mm 60mm thick rads have PWM darkside gentle typhoons on them, probs gonna buy some more if I get around to it but in the meantime running it without any fans on the 240 would be ok right, I mean the rad itself without fans on it should have plenty of cooling capacity on its own, no ? The point of all the radspace for such a low power system is I can run the fans like 500-1000rpm and stll have nice temps and OC potential
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( and oh SILENCE ofcourse )


So You are planning to Passively Cool the 240mm Rad?

It will work, just not as efficient as if you were to have 2 x 120mm Fans on it (Naturally)

TCO


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Yes 2 of my 480mm rads both have fans on them but the 240mm would just go in the loop without any fans on it just to help out with the temps abit


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Yes 2 of my 480mm rads both have fans on them but the 240mm would just go in the loop without any fans on it just to help out with the temps abit


I see no problem with this, essentially not wanting to leave an unused Rad lying around like an abandoned child, helpless... and collecting dust in this world in a far dark corner of a room... Being outofyourhead and all









But I do see you asking later on in the Near future.... " How much cooling power could the Passively cooled 240mm rad help by adding 2 x 120mm fans in my loop"









TCO


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Yes 2 of my 480mm rads both have fans on them but the 240mm would just go in the loop without any fans on it just to help out with the temps abit


Just a thought but maybe take 1 fan off another rad? I could be wrong but it might be more effective to have 2 rads short 1 fan then having 1 rad with no fans. Someone else may know for sure


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I do have some crappy fans laying around but I do not wish to disturb the harmony that is Darkside GT 1850 PWM


----------



## outofmyheadyo

http://i1.wp.com/www.xtremerigs.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/w10dt.png

this chart leads me to belive adding 750rpm fans to it will surely help it dissipate 174.1w of heat ouf of my system, but whatever gain that is over the fanless version is yet to be determined.

"no rad left behind"


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I do have some crappy fans laying around but I do not wish to disturb the harmony that is Darkside GT 1850 PWM


Yeah, probably wouldn't be the best idea. But at least you can still add 2 more GT's later on if you ever feel like you need a little more cooling performance.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> http://i1.wp.com/www.xtremerigs.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/w10dt.png
> 
> this chart leads me to belive adding 750rpm fans to it will surely help it dissipate 174.1w of heat ouf of my system, but whatever gain that is over the fanless version is yet to be determined.
> 
> "no rad left behind"


Whats the temperature delta in that case though. I think with 2x 480mm radiators already in your loop, your water temps are going to be pretty low already, probably resulting in that 240mm rad not nearly being efficient enough at that temp to remove that much wattage from your loop. Heck if it were to remove that much wattage extra, it would probably result in sub ambient water temps, which is impossible.


----------



## fakeblood

Daytime photos.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/1_zpsnrhhcrek.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/2_zpswws03ikn.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/3_zpsts9jxdts.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/4_zpsj2knfhmu.png.html

By far my favourite TJ07 Ive done so far. Just need a WC'd GPU now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Yes 2 of my 480mm rads both have fans on them but the 240mm would just go in the loop without any fans on it just to help out with the temps abit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a thought but maybe take 1 fan off another rad? I could be wrong but it might be more effective to have 2 rads short 1 fan then having 1 rad with no fans. Someone else may know for sure
Click to expand...

It really wont matter.and it will be fine only would hurt temps if there was a heat source blowing on the passive rad


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Yes 2 of my 480mm rads both have fans on them but the 240mm would just go in the loop without any fans on it just to help out with the temps abit


Theoretically the passive radiator will work better in a horizontal position with cool air below it to allow the warm air to move up and away naturally. The other option is to have all the other fans as either intake or exhaust and that would force a low or high air pressure scenario and force air movement over the passive radiator. But, really you should get some fans.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Theoretically the passive radiator will work better in a horizontal position with cool air below it to allow the warm air to move up and away naturally. The other option is to have all the other fans as either intake or exhaust and that would force a low or high air pressure scenario and force air movement over the passive radiator. But, really you should get some fans.


I don't think adding 240 rad will change anything. 2x 480 is plenty and your loop is very efficient already, like someone mentioned before, you can lower your temps to certain point only, it won't go sub zero. I don't think you'll see even 1°C gain in water temp.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Keep in mind my fans are like 500 to 1000rpm max and titanX + 1.4v+ 6700k is pretty hot.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Cover plate is done and etch primered...in fact all the bare parts are etched,colour is mixed and ready for tomorrow.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cover plate is done and etch primered...in fact all the bare parts are etched,colour is mixed and ready for tomorrow.


Pretty wicked B.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Cover plate is done and etch primered...in fact all the bare parts are etched,colour is mixed and ready for tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Right awesomesauce way to shoehorn that SLi. Duly noted for future builds.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not quite accurate. 1 GPM is good flow and aim for most loops. Adding more flow will not gain you much correct. But you can easily run a loop at 0.5 GPM - 0.7 GPM and not having any "negative effect" since that would be enough for turbulent flow.
> 
> @eucalyptus search Martinliquidlab and cleaning rad and you will find good info.
> *No need for vinegar or lemon juice.* Just hot water shake drain method. Do that until the water coming out of the rad is clean and without debris. Martin method is the one Megaman described. Put the rad on the faucet and let warm water run through it (just be aware of tap house pressure so you don't damage your rad).
> 
> 
> 
> And all of this,chapter and verse.
> 
> *There is no need for acid cleaning,the flux which is the problem, is water-soluble.*
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.*@Gabrielzm*, and *B NEG.*, I've always just used warm water flushes and rad shaking, also good to know that the flux is water-soluble.
Rep+ to both.









Edit:
Also wanted to add, those cutouts for the gpu blocks and SLI bridge are brilliant!


----------



## jon666

Is the pressure anyone gets from tap really enough to damage a rad?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Is the pressure anyone gets from tap really enough to damage a rad?


Yes. Rads can be deformed with as little as 15psi of pressure.


----------



## tongerks

is thermosphere universal block compatible with 1060?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> is thermosphere universal block compatible with 1060?


Almost certainly,the 4 hole mount pattern has not changed for many years. Try coolingconfigurator.com if unsure.


----------



## tongerks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Almost certainly,the 4 hole mount pattern has not changed for many years. Try coolingconfigurator.com if unsure.


thanks for the reply no chance on installing my universal WB.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> is thermosphere universal block compatible with 1060?


depends on length of pcb from pcie slot to side of case. I have heatkiller gpux3 and i cannot slam it on many newer cards because pcbs are much bigger now then they used to be.


----------



## prznar1

Guys, why dont we convert this thread to a discussion thread and make a new for gallery only and no talk. Just pics. Seeing that we have full pages without even a single pic and above you see a gallery in title is seriously misleading.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, why dont we convert this thread to a discussion thread and make a new for gallery only and no talk. Just pics. Seeing that we have full pages without even a single pic and above you see a gallery in title is seriously misleading.


You seem to have missed the 'club' part of the the title and probably not looked at the first page of this thread......


----------



## prznar1

No i have not missed first page nor the club word in title. I just wish we had a thread with pics only for inspiration or solutions.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> No i have not missed first page nor the club word in title. I just wish we had a thread with pics only for inspiration or solutions.


Sadly I have asked more times than enough for the questions asked in this thread to be kept to theory or new products...this never happens so it is what it is.

There is a spreadsheet for pics only btw.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

false


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly I have asked more times than enough for the questions asked in this thread to be kept to theory or new products...this never happens so it is what it is.
> 
> *There is a spreadsheet for pics only btw.*


wut? ive missed that. So NVM


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> No i have not missed first page nor the club word in title. I just wish we had a thread with pics only for inspiration or solutions.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> wut? ive missed that. So NVM


Don't understand why you have such a hard on for it being a pure picture thread tbh, it's not the first time you have brought it up and I could put money down you'll bring it up again.

Make me a mod your dream will come true!


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, why dont we convert this thread to a discussion thread and make a new for gallery only and no talk. Just pics. Seeing that we have full pages without even a single pic and above you see a gallery in title is seriously misleading.


Your button to happiness:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sadly I have asked more times than enough for the questions asked in this thread to be kept to theory or new products...this never happens so it is what it is.
> 
> There is a spreadsheet for pics only btw.


I almost had guaranteed myself there would be a response from Bneg about "Well There is always the option of Running your Own thread, no one is stopping you"

But Alas, it never happened.









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I almost had guaranteed myself there would be a response from Bneg about "Well There is always the option of Running your Own thread, no one is stopping you"
> 
> But Alas, it never happened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The situation is simple,this is the largest thread on OCN and with that comes high traffic,if only 5% ask one question and is answered 4 times for example,you end up with a lot of questions and even more answers....

My gripe is people asking simple questions for which there are already established threads on that specific subject....no need to add yet more to this thread in regards to it. Use the search,its there for a reason.

If people want specifics or ongoing support then they should start a thread covering that topic. Not too much to ask I think.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The situation is simple,this is the largest thread on OCN and with that comes high traffic,if only 5% ask one question and is answered 4 times for example,you end up with a lot of questions and even more answers....
> 
> My gripe is people asking simple questions for which there are already established threads on that specific subject....no need to add yet more to this thread in regards to it. Use the search,its there for a reason.
> 
> *If people want specifics or ongoing support then they should start a thread covering that topic. Not too much to ask I think*.


No, I don't think it is either, yet who is to decide what is a simple question or an intricate question?

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No, I don't think it is either, yet who is to decide what is a simple question or an intricate question?
> 
> TCO


Start a thread,easy. If there is no response (unlikely) then post the link to it here.

In an ideal world anyway....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Start a thread,easy. If there is no response (unlikely) then post the link to it here.
> 
> In an ideal world anyway....


Is this statement in the OP ?









Maybe it could, or should be, yeah?

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Is the pressure anyone gets from tap really enough to damage a rad?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. Rads can be deformed with as little as 15psi of pressure.
Click to expand...

to expand from memory ( which can be incorrect ), you are supposed to get ( iirc in the us- if not then in co ) between 60-90 psi water delivered to your house. that said i have seen far less and more i have seen 128 psi in the past ! - the water you see in a tap ( tap meaning faucet ) ( again in the us ) is usually ~ 5ga/min ( again from memory ) . most everything today is "green" ( i wont make the joke i want to about this ) so you are restricted to less psi, this is NOT the case in taps like most bathtubs ( NOT the shower head that is different ), hoses ( irrigation ) or main line of water


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> to expand from memory ( which can be incorrect ), you are supposed to get ( iirc in the us- if not then in co ) between 60-90 psi water delivered to your house. that said i have seen far less and more i have seen 128 psi in the past ! - the water you see in a tap ( tap meaning faucet ) ( again in the us ) is usually ~ 5ga/min ( again from memory ) . most everything today is "green" ( i wont make the joke i want to about this ) so you are restricted to less psi, this is NOT the case in taps like most bathtubs ( NOT the shower head that is different ), hoses ( irrigation ) or main line of water


From what I can find online, Virginia building code (easiest one to find for some reason) requires a hard maximum of 80 PSI for water pressure, and requires a pressure reducing valve for intakes higher than that. So basically, 60-90 PSI sounds like a good estimate for the US.


----------



## Streetdragon

aquatuning
Monsoon antibakterielle Silberpatrone

6,00€ X1
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/anschluesse/verschluesse-und-stopfen/14788/monsoon-antibakterielle-silberpatrone-g1/4
Watercool HEATKILLER® IV BASIC (INTEL processor) ACETAL

54,79€ X1
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/cpu-kuehler/cpu-wasserkuehler/19202/watercool-heatkiller-iv-basic-intel-processor-acetal?c=251
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 480mm --have 4 fans

104,99€ X1
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/radiatoren/radiatoren-aktiv/12349/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-full-copper-480mm?c=352
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 480mm+Fans in Bundle

129,13€ X1
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/radiatoren/radiatoren-aktiv/12349/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-full-copper-480mm?c=352
Alphacool Eisbecher D5 250mm Acetal inkl. 1x Alphacool VPP655

124,80€ X1
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/ausgleichsbehaelter/roehrenbehaelter/eisbecher-250/21026/alphacool-eisbecher-d5-250mm-acetal-inkl.-1x-alphacool-vpp655?c=286
aquatuning: 419,71€

ebay
Barrow G1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting

4,76€ X1
http://www.ebay.de/itm/171823567270?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Barrow G1/4" Matte Black 90 Degree Rotary Adapter

5,37€ X8
http://www.ebay.de/itm/181784044717?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Barrow G1/4" Matte Black 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD Compression Fitting

4,30€ X20
http://www.ebay.de/itm/181942650892?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thermaltake Core X9

163,90€
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Geh-Thermaltake-Core-X9-black-EATX-USB3-0-mit-Fenster-/351794405900?hash=item51e894a20c:g:jsIAAOSw7W5XNoeZ
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Schlauch 16/10 mm Rot

8,18€ X4
http://www.ebay.de/itm/PrimoChill-PrimoFlex-Advanced-LRT-Schlauch-16-10-mm-Rot-/401145459660?hash=item5d6621f3cc:g:CSgAAOSweWVXdE6I
ebay: 330,34€

aquatuning + ebay: 750,05€

That is my futur build so far. Only destilled water and a silver plug. The tube should fit in the fittings or? Is the list ok?


----------



## VSG

I would recommend going with a coolant concentrate instead of the silver plug myself. Another potential issue is that the colored Primochill tubing may have a thicker wall than advertised, and this coupled with the metric to imperial conversion may result in the tubing having a hard time going over the barb end of those Barrow fittings. You can stretch and loosen the tubing to help though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I would recommend going with a coolant concentrate instead of the silver plug myself. Another potential issue is that the colored Primochill tubing may have a thicker wall than advertised, and this coupled with the metric to imperial conversion may result in the tubing having a hard time going over the barb end of those Barrow fittings. You can stretch and loosen the tubing to help though.


This.

Silver is an outdated bio control measure,modern coolant is pretty good and is recommended instead.


----------



## iOlaf

My new SFF build:







Cables need a fair bit more training and the bends are nowehere near perfect (this was my first time water cooling). I plan to come in and replace all the petg when I first drain and replace the fluid. Also UV leds are on the way!


----------



## Kenjiwing

Looks great.. try to prop that gpu up a bit if you can.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iOlaf*
> 
> My new SFF build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cables need a fair bit more training and the bends are nowehere near perfect (this was my first time water cooling). I plan to come in and replace all the petg when I first drain and replace the fluid. Also UV leds are on the way!


Great looking rig. You should check out this define s nano in the fractal thread. He put an sfx psu in it. Gives a weird optical illusion of a define s shrunk. Space between the gpu and psu.


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iOlaf*
> 
> My new SFF build:


Man, I've been Bojanglin on doing a hard line build and you just went ahead and took the plunge into that your first try at a water cooling build. Props! ? Also, you really like razor huh? Lol


----------



## Sethy666

Finally decided to go PETG... frustrating yet very satisfying all at the same time









*Before*




*After*


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iOlaf*
> 
> My new SFF build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cables need a fair bit more training and the bends are nowehere near perfect (this was my first time water cooling). I plan to come in and replace all the petg when I first drain and replace the fluid. Also UV leds are on the way!


I love green


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I would recommend going with a coolant concentrate instead of the silver plug myself. Another potential issue is that the colored Primochill tubing may have a thicker wall than advertised, and this coupled with the metric to imperial conversion may result in the tubing having a hard time going over the barb end of those Barrow fittings. You can stretch and loosen the tubing to help though.


with a bit hot air it should go over them..i hope^^ better closely and tightly then leaking







but thx for the warning
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Silver is an outdated bio control measure,modern coolant is pretty good and is recommended instead.


i thought it is still good.... i could get inoovatek Protect IP. I dont have a source for the PT nuke

Other short question. If i flush a rad with boiling water 1-2times with shaking and then with distilled water 1-2 times should be good or


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Cant decide if I want to keep the 240 in P/P or go with the 360 in P that I have laying around, all that I'll ever need to cool is 1 cpu and 1 gpu, I quess it really does not matter much 1200 vs 1320 total rad space, and 240 would leave room for longer than 160mm psu.


----------



## iOlaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftysBlade*
> 
> Man, I've been Bojanglin on doing a hard line build and you just went ahead and took the plunge into that your first try at a water cooling build. Props! ? Also, you really like razor huh? Lol


Do it! Once you get a few trys at bending it doesnt take too long to really get to grips with it. It would have been much easier in an atx case too as you probably would have more options for routing the tube. Haha i dont have a particular affinity to razor just the mouse and headset. Black and green is just my favourite colour scheme and im a bit of a motorsport nut so if anything its a monster energy theme


----------



## B NEGATIVE

GREEEEEN!





More pics in the log.

MILSPEC II


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iOlaf*
> 
> Do it! Once you get a few trys at bending it doesnt take too long to really get to grips with it. It would have been much easier in an atx case too as you probably would have more options for routing the tube. Haha i dont have a particular affinity to razor just the mouse and headset. Black and green is just my favourite colour scheme and im a bit of a motorsport nut so if anything its a *monster energy* theme














TCO


----------



## Kyouki

Been a while since I been on OCN with any new builds, but I am happy to be back with my first hardline build. New build log will be document here -->> [Build Log] MänəKrōm - X99, phanteks evolv TG, Water cooled.

So here is all the parts I got so far and more to come!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> GREEEEEN!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics in the log.
> 
> MILSPEC II


Well that plate really finishes off the blocks and SLI bridge through the case top.

Lovely, off to the build log now.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Been a while since I been on OCN with any new builds, but I am happy to be back with my first hardline build. New build log will be document here -->> http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/build-log-m-n-kr-m-x99-phanteks-evolv-tg-water-cooled#post_25389592][Build Log] MänəKrōm - X99, phanteks evolv TG, Water cooled.
> 
> So here is all the parts I got so far and more to come!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good, however, the link to your log seems broken, maybe because you renamed it? Removing the long link and leave only "http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/" works tho.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Looking good, however, the link to your log seems broken, maybe because you renamed it? Removing the long link and leave only "http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/" works tho.


Thank you fixed!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Been a while since I been on OCN with any new builds, but I am happy to be back with my first hardline build. New build log will be document here -->> [Build Log] MänəKrōm - X99, phanteks evolv TG, Water cooled.
> 
> So here is all the parts I got so far and more to come!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love AX rads,expensive but they look so good.


----------



## Kyouki

I Agree you do pay a premium for that clean look and solid aluminum build. They just fit so well with the build and look I was going for so felt it was worth it! you can see in one of my pictures the two rads fit in the case with a hair to spare lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Kyouki

Why the XSPC Cpu Block? Just to match the white theme?

TCO


----------



## ShiftysBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iOlaf*
> 
> Do it! Once you get a few trys at bending it doesnt take too long to really get to grips with it. It would have been much easier in an atx case too as you probably would have more options for routing the tube. Haha i dont have a particular affinity to razor just the mouse and headset. Black and green is just my favourite colour scheme and im a bit of a motorsport nut so if anything its a monster energy theme


haha I hear you on that one I basically live off of Monster while I'm at work lol. But yeah I'm about to redo my Primo so I think it's about time I got into hard line tubing plenty of room in that case. Thanks for the encouragement I think I needed that LOL


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Kyouki
> 
> Why the XSPC Cpu Block? Just to match the white theme?
> 
> TCO


Yea mostly to match, also used one on my last build and was happy with it. After thinking about it I could of used an EK plexi with white coolant and it would of match as well. I am still happy with the block though and it feel real solid since it is all copper and aluminum.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> I Agree you do pay a premium for that clean look and solid aluminum build. They just fit so well with the build and look I was going for so felt it was worth it! you can see in one of my pictures the two rads fit in the case with a hair to spare lol.


I know all about hair to spare with AX rads....


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know all about hair to spare with AX rads....


Love that look, very CLEAN!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Yea mostly to match, also used one on my last build and was happy with it. After thinking about it I could of used an EK plexi with white coolant and it would of match as well. I am still happy with the block though and it feel real solid since it is all copper and aluminum.


I didn't realize it was such a good performer also!

Review

TCO


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I didn't realize it was such a good performer also!
> 
> Review
> 
> TCO


Nice find, to be honest I did not check many reviews before picking it up. I was using the old raystorm on my 3930k it did good but was a copper heatsink connected to a type of plastic, so I am already really impressed with this raystorm pro with no plastic, full copper! Feels like a brick lol. So I can't wait to see the temp improvement.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Nice find, to be honest I did not check many reviews before picking it up. I was using the old raystorm on my 3930k it did good but was a copper heatsink connected to a type of plastic, so I am already really impressed with this raystorm pro with no plastic, full copper! Feels like a brick lol. So I can't wait to see the temp improvement.


I usually stick to the Ek Blocks. Possibly going to get a White Acetal top Ek Supremacy for an upcoming build. I've always been partial to white









Never used the AX Rads, Always purchased the RX Rads from XSPC and then Painted them White









TCO


----------



## psycho84

The Result for today


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> The Result for today


Looks good









It's been ages since I've posted here so i figured I'd post a build I made a couple days ago, made from parts I had lying around








Cpu - Xeon L5638 @3006.06MHz (200.40 X 15.0)
ROG Rampage III Formula
2X GTX 580 Classified Ultra
12GB Dominator Ram
1000W Silverstone PSU



Going to add 3 low profile fans to the bottom radiator when I decide to go back to Thermoelectric cooling
Sorry for potato pic all I have is my phone


----------



## Kyouki

If any one has some great ideas on how I should run this Hardline loop to keep it clean this could include all fitting or bending the petg. I am just going over many ideas in my head but want to hear from some people with experience.

Here is where I am at, also I am just using my gtx690 as reference since I have not ordered my gtx1080 or 1080's is I go sli. Also in the bottom I am laying in a sheet of white 3/16 acrylic so I can also run passthroughs if needed like the drain.



Edit: btw I am not keeping that SSD under the pump lol... Just was using to keep it level, also do you guys think that the res will need its brackets with the way I attached it to pump with a male to male fitting?


----------



## Rikuo

First watercooling build I've done.

Came out pretty good imo.

6700k @ 4.7ghz
Msi z170 m7
G.Skill 2x8gb 3000mhz 15cl
2x Msi 1080 gaming X, With stock backplates
Seasonic 1000w platinum psu
Corsair 750D

Went full EK for the WC parts.


----------



## Chopper1591

Good day all.

I've put my build change to the Primo on hold for a little longer.
Came across a 6700K up for sale by someone who needed to get rid of it because of money issues.

The thing is 1 month old. I've bought it for €290 (324 USD) including shipping.
Pretty good, right?

So now I am going to save up for a nice board and some ram. To start the build next month.
Will keep the rest of my parts (psu, hdd's, ssd, gpu...). Most likely going to swap for a RX 490 (or whatever it will be called). Don't want to waste my FreeSync monitor.

It feels kinda weird to actually let AMD go (for now). Believe it or not but I have not used Intel (except for my notebook) since the P3.
Feeling excited though.

Any tips/advice? Have no clue on what to do OC'ing wise with the chip.
Have my mind set on the Maximus Hero and a set of G.Skill (I like G.Skill). It looks like 2800 or 3000mhz is the way to go, CL15 or 16.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Look into the Trident Z's I know we now carry them a 16gb kit was around $87US so I'm sure you should be able to find some at a reasonable price


----------



## wermad

I've seen a lot of horizontal tube reservoir setups, just wondering how easy is it to fill and bleed? I have a couple of 300mm long tube reservoir/pump combos and I may set them up horizontal depending on the case I end up getting.


----------



## Benjiw

I just put the rad in the bath and run the tap or if its small enough, the sink.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've seen a lot of horizontal tube reservoir setups, just wondering how easy is it to fill and bleed? I have a couple of 300mm long tube reservoir/pump combos and I may set them up horizontal depending on the case I end up getting.


Filling and draining you'd probably have to stand the case on its side.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Look into the Trident Z's I know we now carry them a 16gb kit was around $87US so I'm sure you should be able to find some at a reasonable price


I have. Looking into the Ripjaws V as well.

Have a look here, if you'd like:
Choice enough it seems

Not sure on the color though. Which would look best with the Hero...



Case already in house, waiting for the parts is red:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've seen a lot of horizontal tube reservoir setups, *just wondering how easy is it to fill and bleed*? I have a couple of 300mm long tube reservoir/pump combos and I may set them up horizontal depending on the case I end up getting.


Pretty much comes down to advanced planning and keeping basic physical principles in mind . . . .

If the res isn't at the highest point in the system, be sure to have a fill option at the location that is at the highest point, and have a vent location at the highest point of the cylinder, so that you can bleed air as you fill so that the res has a very minimal airspace above the liquid surface.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I just put the rad in the bath and run the tap or if its small enough, the sink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Filling and draining you'd probably have to stand the case on its side.


Lol, that one escaped me but seems very reasonable







+1 (ocn rep not working atm...







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Pretty much comes down to advanced planning and keeping basic physical principles in mind . . . .
> 
> If the res isn't at the highest point in the system, be sure to have a fill option at the location that is at the highest point, and have a vent location at the highest point of the cylinder, so that you can bleed air as you fill so that the res has a very minimal airspace above the liquid surface.


Thank you Darlene







. I was eyeing your Snow build but needed a bit more feedback. I see you have a small vent fitting on what is the top of the reservoir? Since I'll have rads and four gpu blocks filled with water, I'll need to find a vent and fill option. +1


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Look into the Trident Z's I know we now carry them a 16gb kit was around $87US so I'm sure you should be able to find some at a reasonable price


Shoot I'm still looking for a 16GB set of 2000s in 2x8 DDR3 that will allow me to push my RoG board.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol, and right now my Uncle has the set of 2 x 4GB's that I had


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A quick peek before I finish up scuffing the yellow with a scotch pad to soften the lines and give it a used feel.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Some progress on the new front too:


----------



## Mega Man

I love that. Esp the lit up logo


----------



## Lordevan83

Last pics of my S frame build before I take it down:


----------



## AreTheGod

Hi guys, I'd like to ask what do you think of my build and the bend of my WC. It's my first one













And I would have a question, where should I put my LED strips? I tried to put them on the right and the botttom but it seems that it light to much some part.



Thanks !


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Nice! Very clean.

If the strips are too bright, just cut them down!


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Hi guys, I'd like to ask what do you think of my build and the bend of my WC. It's my first one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I would have a question, where should I put my LED strips? I tried to put them on the right and the botttom but it seems that it light to much some part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks !


Whoa, those are some long runs! Used to seeing more compact runs, but I think I like it, very clean look.


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Nice! Very clean.
> 
> If the strips are too bright, just cut them down!


Thanks ! Still have to finish the cable sleeving and do some Cable Managment








But just when you talk about cutting them, how can I since it's "rigid" (Darkside LED)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Whoa, those are some long runs! Used to seeing more compact runs, but I think I like it, very clean look.


Yeah, wanted to do something "massive" and found Caselabs' case and fall in love w/ them









Thanks !


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like you need a strip on the top to even out the light distribution


----------



## AreTheGod

Should I buy a new one and put it on the top or take off the right one and put it on the top?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Should I buy a new one and put it on the top or take off the right one and put it on the top?


Personally, I would have purchased 3 Led Strips.

One for each side of the case. The Last for the center of the bottom of the case.

For Black internals, It's hard to have too much lighting.









TCO


----------



## AreTheGod

Guess I'll buy another one then








Just is there any chance I can regulate the intensity of the light using my Aquaero 6?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Guess I'll buy another one then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just is there any chance I can regulate the intensity of the light using my Aquaero 6?


As I've yet to use one of them, I leave that question to the professionals.

Official Aquaero Thread Here


TCO


----------



## rolldog

How about a lightbox like this one?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UesWQIN3xjg


----------



## SlvrDragon50

LEDs are usually difficult to dim because they have such a narrow band of current from off to on. I don't think it's likely you can use the Aquero to dim them, but I don't use one either.


----------



## SIRobotics

First water-cooled build; already addicted and have a new build in progress. Specs at bottom; let me know what you think








Important hardware
Processor: Intel Core i7-5960X
Motherboard: MSI X99A GodLike Gaming Carbon
PSU: CORSAIR AX1500i
SSD1: SAMSUNG 950 PRO M.2 512GB PCI-Express 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive
SSD2: SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 512GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive
SSD3: SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 512GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive
RAM: CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 64GB (8 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2800 (PC4 22400)
GPU: 2x SLI MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti GAMING 6G

Case
InWin 909 Silver ***VERY MODIFIED*
Lighting: Mixture of cold cathode/RGB LEDs (PC controlled)
Cables: CaseMod AXi set

Custom Cooling
Motherboard WB: Bitspower MSI X99A GODLIKE GAMING Nickel Plated Full-Covered-Block (Clear)
GPU WB: 2x Bitspower VG-NGTX980TIMG Acrylic (Clear)
RAM WB: Bitspower RAM Module Set
Rear Radiator: EKWB 360MM XE
Front Radiator: EKWB 280MM CE
Fans Rear/Mid: 4x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000RPM PWM fans
Fans Front/bottom: 4x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 3000RPM PWM fans
Pump: Swiftech D5 PWM with Bitspower mod top
Resevoir: FrozenQ dual bay helix (leaked on delivery FYI **after I assembled the whole thing







)
Fittings: Lots of Bitspower black sparkle enhanced multi-link
Tubing: Labratory grade 12mm chrome plated copper tube


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Wow, very impressive for a first build!


----------



## SIRobotics

Thanks! The one I am starting tomorrow for home is going to be even better







This one's for work so used it as a test run


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Guess I'll buy another one then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just is there any chance I can regulate the intensity of the light using my Aquaero 6?


If you are using 5050 leds for example and solder a fan header (female) to the led strip you can dim the light with the Aquaero. Just make sure you calculate the A for the amount of leds you are using so does not go over the board the Aquaero specs per channel. I am traveling now and can not take pics for you but if you check the chessboard build log (my sig) you will see how I did it. Latter this week I can take pics with leds at 100% and the minimum before they shut down so you can see the difference.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Guess I'll buy another one then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just is there any chance I can regulate the intensity of the light using my Aquaero 6?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> LEDs are usually difficult to dim because they have such a narrow band of current from off to on. I don't think it's likely you can use the Aquero to dim them, but I don't use one either.


Yes you can

For rgbs you need to buy either zeaks amp or farbwerk.

For normal leds the 2 pin pwm ports are made for this (12v pwm [NOT FOR FANS fans use 5vpwm] up to 1a) fan headers are meh imo for it. But aye they can be used
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Wow, very impressive for a first build!


Agreed


----------



## Grecko

Wow !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Amazing built. Pure lines with a touch of green. Excellent !!!!!


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIRobotics*
> 
> First water-cooled build; already addicted and have a new build in progress. Specs at bottom; let me know what you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Important hardware
> Processor: Intel Core i7-5960X
> Motherboard: MSI X99A GodLike Gaming Carbon
> PSU: CORSAIR AX1500i
> SSD1: SAMSUNG 950 PRO M.2 512GB PCI-Express 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive
> SSD2: SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 512GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive
> SSD3: SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 512GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive
> RAM: CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 64GB (8 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2800 (PC4 22400)
> GPU: 2x SLI MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti GAMING 6G
> 
> Case
> InWin 909 Silver ***VERY MODIFIED*
> Lighting: Mixture of cold cathode/RGB LEDs (PC controlled)
> Cables: CaseMod AXi set
> 
> Custom Cooling
> Motherboard WB: Bitspower MSI X99A GODLIKE GAMING Nickel Plated Full-Covered-Block (Clear)
> GPU WB: 2x Bitspower VG-NGTX980TIMG Acrylic (Clear)
> RAM WB: Bitspower RAM Module Set
> Rear Radiator: EKWB 360MM XE
> Front Radiator: EKWB 280MM CE
> Fans Rear/Mid: 4x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000RPM PWM fans
> Fans Front/bottom: 4x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 3000RPM PWM fans
> Pump: Swiftech D5 PWM with Bitspower mod top
> Resevoir: FrozenQ dual bay helix (leaked on delivery FYI **after I assembled the whole thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Fittings: Lots of Bitspower black sparkle enhanced multi-link
> Tubing: Labratory grade 12mm chrome plated copper tube


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIRobotics*
> 
> First water-cooled build; already addicted and have a new build in progress. Specs at bottom; let me know what you think


I rly hate then ppl use extender in place 2 fittings and pipe can be used







Overall pretty clean build


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> I rly hate then ppl use extender in place 2 fittings and pipe can be used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall pretty clean build


So much this. It instantly kills the clean look for me.


----------



## Bogga

All a matter of opinion... I'm not going to say I'm any good at this, haven't even begun with hard tubing. But my thought on looks is that I don't think it looks good when there are lots of bends that doesn't really need to be there, fills no real purpose.

Extenders or fittings + tube isn't much of a "problem" for me, but might look better with the fittings...


----------



## SIRobotics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> I rly hate then ppl use extender in place 2 fittings and pipe can be used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall pretty clean build


I was against it and had them as hardline but it looked too plain and caused a hotspot of light reflection. The knurl on the extender acts as a light diffuser and looks much better than pipe/fitting.

Plus the pipe was so short that the 2 fittings almost touched which did not look good, and would be a good area for problem leaks.


----------



## catbuster

Its your build, but u wanted to hear what we think







perfection is hard to achieve


----------



## SIRobotics

Oh I know, just explaining the choice because in general I agree with your comment.

And as an engineer.....there is no such thing as perfection; it can always be better


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Your build made me really want to do hardline, but I don't wanna rebuy fittings and whatnot lol


----------



## SIRobotics

Careful it is addictive. I had a bunch of left over components so I just started my new build:

InWin 805 Infinity Case

i7-6850K
2x SLI MSI Gaming 6G 980Ti
Corsair Dominator Platinum 64GB (4x16GB) 3200MHz
Corsair 1200AXi PSU
ASUS X99-M WS mATX

Probably going to use chrome tubing/fittings since I have enough left over. Have the Bitspower VGA WB's too.

I am not going to do the whole MOBO/chipset block again.

Anyone have good (high quality) suggestions for:

*2011-V3 CPU block*
*Small res/pump combo (space will be somewhat tight)*


----------



## SlvrDragon50

EK res/pump combo with a DDC pump if you are lacking space.

I always like using Heatkiller blocks.


----------



## AreTheGod

Ok thanks I'll check that!

By the way nice build


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Ok thanks I'll check that!
> 
> By the way nice build


Ahahah. You don't have to lie...


----------



## SIRobotics

Ended up with an EK Supremacy EVO Elite for the CPU block. Couldn't find a heatkiller for LGA 2011-V3

Still up in the air for the res/pump. The combos look flimsy so may do a custom machined viewing panel for the 805i with an integrated reservoir to make the new build more unique. Get everything tomorrow so will see what it looks like before I pull the trigger.


----------



## bluedevil

Leak testing my rig I am finishing up...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIRobotics*
> 
> Ended up with an EK Supremacy EVO Elite for the CPU block. Couldn't find a heatkiller for LGA 2011-V3
> 
> Still up in the air for the res/pump. The combos look flimsy so may do a custom machined viewing panel for the 805i with an integrated reservoir to make the new build more unique. Get everything tomorrow so will see what it looks like before I pull the trigger.


Just in case others were curious, all LGA 2011 square ILM (standard socket) coolers/blocks will work with LGA 2011-3 square ILM sockets as well. The Heatkiller IV Basic and Pro would have worked.


----------



## Tim Drake

Looking for a similar look to Pastel Red without all these magician color changing loops, any ideas what to get?

I really really like the look of pastel but i'm quite lazy and would rather avoid cleaning rads before, maintaining more frequently than I need to, etc


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Leak testing my rig I am finishing up...


I like it. Hardline expanded swiftech aio.

This water cooling stuff is addicting. Just finished tweaking my first 'loop'. Expanded ek predator 240. Now I want to do more! Honestly I'd change a few things with this setup if I wasn't too lazy to drain and refill the loop. Maybe I'll just enjoy the rig for what it is.

Maybe throw it on CL and start over


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIRobotics*
> 
> Ended up with an EK Supremacy EVO Elite for the CPU block. Couldn't find a heatkiller for LGA 2011-V3
> 
> Still up in the air for the res/pump. The combos look flimsy so may do a custom machined viewing panel for the 805i with an integrated reservoir to make the new build more unique. Get everything tomorrow so will see what it looks like before I pull the trigger.


The Bitspower res with a pump, pump top, and Bitspower mod upgrade always looks good.


----------



## guitarhero23

Anyone going to Quakecon now through Sunday?


----------



## Kenjiwing

I like that res included with the radiator mount where can I get that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Res is nearly finished,just have to put a small radius on that leading edge and polish them up lowfat style.


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res is nearly finished,just have to put a small radius on that leading edge and polish them up lowfat style.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks amazing


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res is nearly finished,just have to put a small radius on that leading edge and polish them up lowfat style.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks amazing
Click to expand...

And I second that!
Can't wait to see it filled.


----------



## bluedevil

Finishing mine up soon...

Ok gotta get the cables managed...top off the loop....and get the side panels from my printer....



















Temps at idle, stocks clocks.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Finishing mine up soon...
> 
> Ok gotta get the cables managed...top off the loop....and get the side panels from my printer....


Looks good. Looking at that second pic I found it sort of odd you'd include that rear led strip in the loop as I was pretty sure led strips didn't need to be water cooled.










Optical illusion. Looks like that hardline tube is going right into the strip.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Finishing mine up soon...


Looking great, I like what you've done to fill an otherwise boring void in the case with something else cool to look at







.

Edit: derp, snipped the wrong photo on mobile view







. I think the designer of this forum theme hates iOS users







.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Edit: derp, snipped the wrong photo on mobile view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I think the designer of this forum theme hates iOS users
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Don't most people?









I'm kidding! I'm kidding!


----------



## bluedevil

Here's another pic I just took...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Reservoir in place:


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIRobotics*
> 
> Thanks! The one I am starting tomorrow for home is going to be even better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one's for work so used it as a test run


WTH? Just win the lottery or something?

Nice job.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res is nearly finished,just have to put a small radius on that leading edge and polish them up lowfat style.






Looking redonkulously good!


----------



## battleaxe

delete


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well the 6-7 yr old DDC in the Nano S decided to pass on to the other side, glad I had the D5 from JAC. So looks like tomorrow/today I need to pick up a new pump from work.

Sorry for potato pics, still working on the desk - reboot from a 20yr old desk I grew up w/ that I took the top and revived it. But Nano S is back up w/ D5 powah!


----------



## VSG

New PPCs discount codes
Quote:


> Now that the kids are finally heading back in school we can get back to business! The business of modding and watercooling our PC's! We have new arrivals
> coming every day including some of the best watercooling parts you can use.
> Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the
> many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend $50 get 7% off: "SCHOOL16-7"
> Spend $250 get 8.5% off: "SCHOOL16-85"
> Spend over $500 get 10% off: "SCHOOL16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items.
> Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 21st through August 28th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New PPCs discount codes












Just ordered 300$ worth of Fans.... at 5.5% Discount.... Thanks VSG

TCO


----------



## VSG

Won't hurt to contact them and see. Don't expect it to work though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Won't hurt to contact them and see. Don't expect it to work though.


I'm not, I live like a cheap bastard anyway, I am sure I've saved the difference 10fold. I am the type to try and negotiate the price of a soda at a convenience store you know?

TCO


----------



## Kyouki

First time working with petg, neither one of these are perfect but wanted to decide if I'd like to use fittings for my bends or just bend the petg. I'm leaning towards fittings but I would like to hear from some OCN members.







What do you think?


----------



## bluedevil

#bendsareforreal #noanglefittingsforthisguy


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> First time working with petg, neither one of these are perfect but wanted to decide if I'd like to use fittings for my bends or just bend the petg. I'm leaning towards fittings but I would like to hear from some OCN members.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


Tight close bends like that are extremely hard to do, possible yes just hard to do. Think of a way to maybe go away from a 90 bend.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@kyouki

I like the fittings.

TCO


----------



## Kyouki

That is the tightest and probably the hardest one in the build. It definitely could be done that image is my first try and was pretty close. Also did it by hand no bending rig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @kyouki
> 
> I like the fittings.
> 
> TCO


Plus did I see discount codes above, could pick up extra fittings lol.


----------



## SIRobotics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> WTH? Just win the lottery or something?




No lottery, just addicted


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> First time working with petg, neither one of these are perfect but wanted to decide if I'd like to use fittings for my bends or just bend the petg. I'm leaning towards fittings but I would like to hear from some OCN members.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


I always prefer bends without fittings.

Don't listen to The Contrary One.

@TheCautiousOne, I am always watching you, man!


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> First time working with petg, neither one of these are perfect but wanted to decide if I'd like to use fittings for my bends or just bend the petg. I'm leaning towards fittings but I would like to hear from some OCN members.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


Far from expert on this subject... but I prefer fittings over bends


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I always prefer bends without fittings.
> 
> Don't listen to The Contrary One.
> 
> @TheCautiousOne, I am always watching you, man!


I am aware, and I love it.

TCO


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Res is nearly finished,just have to put a small radius on that leading edge and polish them up lowfat style.


Nice work. Is that an custom res or did you buy it? If bought, who makes it?

I'm really starting to like the bay reservoirs now instead of tube reservoirs. Have you decided on a coolant yet?


----------



## pclausen

Here's my modest build. I hope to get the inclination to do hardlines one day.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Guess I'll buy another one then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just is there any chance I can regulate the intensity of the light using my Aquaero 6?


If you're using multiple RGB strips, you can use a Farbwerk controller to control color and brightness on 4 strips. I'm working on a build right now that's going to have single color LEDs, and the LEDs are dimmable using the Aquaero and/or a Poweradjust, if you're using up all the headers on the Aquaero. Lots of info in the thread TCO mentioned.


----------



## methadon36

I Cleaned out my loop and block and installed the my new clear top EK Cpu block and added EK white pastel coolant. I had a lot of crap in my old loop and had to spend all day removing, taking apart and cleaning both blocks. Since I forgot to clean out the rads 6 months ago when I first did the loop. I had a lot of garbage clogging the cpu block. I noticed my temps been getting hotter over time.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pclausen*
> 
> Here's my modest build. I hope to get the inclination to do hardlines one day.


I'm working on my first build right now using hardline tubing. It's not as difficult as you think. It does however wish you paid more attention in geometry class.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I'm working on my first build right now using hardline tubing. It's not as difficult as you think. It does however wish you paid more attention in geometry class.


Or Play a lot of Pool.

TCO


----------



## Kyouki

Looks like a 50-50 on here on preference lol, I let my wife look at it last night and she sided on the fittings for bends. I even told her it would cost more but got the go ahead.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And the res is finished...except for more polishing obviously....

There is always more polishing with acrylic......





Now to get the rads and basically the whole ped plumbed in.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like you cleaned the outer edge of the res, looks a lot cleaner


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Looks like you cleaned the outer edge of the res, looks a lot cleaner


Its like glass now.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Looks like a 50-50 on here on preference lol, I let my wife look at it last night and she sided on the fittings for bends. I even told her it would cost more but got the go ahead.


Sometimes the cheaper option is new wife
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And the res is finished...except for more polishing obviously....
> 
> There is always more polishing with acrylic......
> 
> Now to get the rads and basically the whole ped plumbed in.


That just looks fantastic.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not a fan of the colour but the wife likes green so I'm 50/50 here. Everything else is awesome though.









~Ceadder


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> If you're using multiple RGB strips, you can use a Farbwerk controller to control color and brightness on 4 strips. I'm working on a build right now that's going to have single color LEDs, and the LEDs are dimmable using the Aquaero and/or a Poweradjust, if you're using up all the headers on the Aquaero. Lots of info in the thread TCO mentioned.


Unluckily haven't got neither Farbwerk controller nor Poweradjust
Already checked on the thread but there's to many page


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Nice work. Is that an custom res or did you buy it? If bought, who makes it?
> 
> I'm really starting to like the bay reservoirs now instead of tube reservoirs. Have you decided on a coolant yet?


I make my own res,the last 4 builds I made have had custom res,I normally go for a more integrated thing but there is not enough room for that this time.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And the res is finished...except for more polishing obviously....
> 
> There is always more polishing with acrylic......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to get the rads and basically the whole ped plumbed in.


Lovely!

Very classy bolts, the gold rings really compliment them.
I like how the outer rim of the res blends right into the painted finish of the case. Imo it does look well integrated now.


----------



## animal0307

Custom built res for my M-ITX build. Approximately 3" x 1.5" x .75". Made of 16ga 304 stainless. I have one pinhole to weld up and final pressure test to 70psi and then clean and put into service. It's not the prettiest thing but I'm all for function over fashion at this point. I'm not building a show right after all.

Sugo SG13 case. Corsair SF450 SFX psu. Custom psu mounting plate.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Custom built res for my M-ITX build. Approximately 3" x 1.5" x .75". Made of 16ga 304 stainless. I have one pinhole to weld up and final pressure test to 70psi and then clean and put into service. It's not the prettiest thing but I'm all for function over fashion at this point. I'm not building a show right after all.
> 
> Sugo SG13 case. Corsair SF450 SFX psu. Custom psu mounting plate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks pretty good to me! Maybe make an acrylic cover plate or something if you would like it to be more asthetically pleasing.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I make my own res,the last 4 builds I made have had custom res,I normally go for a more integrated thing but there is not enough room for that this time.


Not sure if you have done this before but by any chance do you have or can make a how to thread for making an acrylic custom res. Like what tools you need or can use with a step by step guide. I really would like to do a custom res.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Custom built res for my M-ITX build. Approximately 3" x 1.5" x .75". Made of 16ga 304 stainless. I have one pinhole to weld up and final pressure test to 70psi and then clean and put into service. It's not the prettiest thing but I'm all for function over fashion at this point. I'm not building a show right after all.
> 
> Sugo SG13 case. Corsair SF450 SFX psu. Custom psu mounting plate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks pretty good to me! Maybe make an acrylic cover plate or something if you would like it to be more asthetically pleasing.
Click to expand...

There is no room for one. Besides everything else in my rig is brushed stainless. I could take some time and polish it but it's not worth it to me right now


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey guys quick question (that im going to test but wanted to ask the experts first)

I have a tj07 and I want to replace my side panel with a full piece of glass kind of like the phantek evo (http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-TemperedGlass.html) because I really like that look. So I planned it all out last night and then remembered one important part.. the vent holes on the side panell for my 480 radiator.

So what I am wondering is if putting a full sheet of glass and thus covering this vent holes would be a terrible idea for thermals. I will leave the back side with the stock panel so the vent holes will be open. My plan is to cover the entire thing with like a piece of cardboard and see how my temps go but I was wondering if anyone thinks it will be okay.

Here is a pic of a stock tj07 as an example



Thanks!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Hey guys quick question (that im going to test but wanted to ask the experts first)
> 
> I have a tj07 and I want to replace my side panel with a full piece of glass kind of like the phantek evo (http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-TemperedGlass.html) because I really like that look. So I planned it all out last night and then remembered one important part.. the vent holes on the side panell for my 480 radiator.
> 
> So what I am wondering is if putting a full sheet of glass and thus covering this vent holes would be a terrible idea for thermals. I will leave the back side with the stock panel so the vent holes will be open. My plan is to cover the entire thing with like a piece of cardboard and see how my temps go but I was wondering if anyone thinks it will be okay.
> 
> Here is a pic of a stock tj07 as an example
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I did a glass window for my TJ07 build some time ago:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1417522/tj07-black-deco#post_20585666
Just used some heavy-duty double sided tape to hold the window in place.
I left the bottom grille alone though, you would be best to leave that uncovered for airflow to the rad.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I did a glass window for my TJ07 build some time ago:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1417522/tj07-black-deco#post_20585666
> Just used some heavy-duty double sided tape to hold the window in place.
> I left the bottom grille alone though, you would be best to leave that uncovered for airflow to the rad.


I did the same before I added a custom window to the top of my tj07 side panel.. I am looking to replace the entire side panel with a piece of glass though. Ill test out cooling performance when I cover it up with card board tonight.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> I did the same before I added a custom window to the top of my tj07 side panel.. I am looking to replace the entire side panel with a piece of glass though. Ill test out cooling performance when I cover it up with card board tonight.


Well, you're going to have to get it custom cut anyway right? Why not get the hole for the grill cut out as well?


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Well, you're going to have to get it custom cut anyway right? Why not get the hole for the grill cut out as well?


Yeah this is definitely a option also.. I guess I am worried how it will "look" if I do it that way.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Hello all -

I finally joined the infamous watercooling club. I have succumb to the wet side...if you will HA.

The PC I built is a core i7 6700K with MSI GTX 1080 Seahawk EK gpu. Gigabyte Z170x Designaire RGB MOBO (just came out in June) Corsair vengence 16gb, Samsung Evo 850 250gb SSD and EVGA G2750w PSU. Magicool CPU Block, Magicool 240mm top and 120mm back rad, Magicool pump and alphacool res all in a phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic




Let me know what you all think!


----------



## Kenjiwing

^ Congrats









Can anyone help me find a build log?



Its a cooltek w2


----------



## Grecko

My new built !!!


----------



## Grecko




----------



## Ceadderman

Q: Is a 140 enough to cool a i7-4790 an a 6870 Radeon HD GPU only setup?

I think it should be but am not positive.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Q: Is a 140 enough to cool a i7-4790 an a 6870 Radeon HD GPU only setup?
> 
> I think it should be but am not positive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'd think it'd be ok. Not gonna break any temp records but should do fine.


----------



## sate200

My new Rig, after 2 years off comunity water cooler. Show my Carbide 500r


----------



## eucalyptus

Hmm, since Corsair released their new ML-series of fans. Are EKWB Vardar still the best fans for radiators or are the EXTREMELY high price for Corsair's magnetic fans performing better?


----------



## eucalyptus

Ooh, and to bless your eyeballs, check out these new Monsoon fittings. - I made a bigger post with more pictures in the Monsoon thread.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And the res is finished...except for more polishing obviously....
> 
> There is always more polishing with acrylic......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to get the rads and basically the whole ped plumbed in.


Your rig has a very vintage look to it, like something from the 70s. All you need is a little wood paneling around the outside.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Q: Is a 140 enough to cool a i7-4790 an a 6870 Radeon HD GPU only setup?
> 
> I think it should be but am not positive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd think it'd be ok. Not gonna break any temp records but should do fine.
Click to expand...

Not worried about that to be certain.









Can't OC the CPU since it's a Dell MB. So I'm thinking about cooling only since I want to press the Dell into Folding service at some point.









~Ceadder


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Ooh, and to bless your eyeballs, check out these new Monsoon fittings. - I made a bigger post with more pictures in the Monsoon thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Those look amazing!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Monsoon fittings are seriously underappreciated!


----------



## Kamikaze-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Monsoon fittings are seriously underappreciated!


I second that! The chaingun fittings can be found in a 4 pack for for really cheap now. I got a set of 13/10s in black and white for less than a tenner from overclockers and they look fantastic.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

All this talk of the chaingun fittings is going to make me gag...



TCO


----------



## galletabah

the project start!


See my builg log here!:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1606856/sponsored-project-matx-ser-n-005-galletabah/0_30

PD: Really, clean your rads before use....


----------



## inedenimadam

The chaingun fittings have an obnoxiously large outer diameter, and don't always fit where other compression fittings do just fine. 2 places where I have run into issues: 1. The supremacy block. The chaingun will not screw down on the outlet of the block because the EK badge is in the way. 2.My VRM block. While they screw down fine, they are wider than the block itself, and they hang over the edge. Chainguns need planning, for both proper fit and style. I would avoid them in general for building.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> the project start!
> 
> 
> See my builg log here!:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1606856/sponsored-project-matx-ser-n-005-galletabah/0_30
> 
> PD: Really, clean your rads before use....


Don't even have to look at the build guide... there is only one rad the produces that much gunk...
...
...
...
Alphacool


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, since Corsair released their new ML-series of fans. Are EKWB Vardar still the best fans for radiators or are the EXTREMELY high price for Corsair's magnetic fans performing better?


Best go to place for indepth reviews and comparison.

Click here for the review of the fans


----------



## rkwallace

EXCELLENT NUMBERS! I don't think you can get any better. Great job.


----------



## rkwallace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Hello all -
> 
> I finally joined the infamous watercooling club. I have succumb to the wet side...if you will HA.
> 
> The PC I built is a core i7 6700K with MSI GTX 1080 Seahawk EK gpu. Gigabyte Z170x Designaire RGB MOBO (just came out in June) Corsair vengence 16gb, Samsung Evo 850 250gb SSD and EVGA G2750w PSU. Magicool CPU Block, Magicool 240mm top and 120mm back rad, Magicool pump and alphacool res all in a phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what you all think!


Great numbers, it don't get any better than that and I don't think you can beat those numbers. Good job.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Thanks! Me either. Those are some pretty darn cold temps


----------



## mouacyk

How about you put some load on them numbers? Not so sure water cooling is about idle temps


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well,she is full of water,now to clear the bubbles and get the OS installed.

Cross my fingers that the PSU jump wiring works correctly now......


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Don't even have to look at the build guide... there is only one rad the produces that much gunk...
> ...
> ...
> ...
> Alphacool


I have mounted ekwb, xspc, magicool, alphacool, aquacomputer.... and all the same result.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> The chaingun fittings have an obnoxiously large outer diameter, and don't always fit where other compression fittings do just fine. 2 places where I have run into issues: 1. The supremacy block. The chaingun will not screw down on the outlet of the block because the EK badge is in the way. 2.My VRM block. While they screw down fine, they are wider than the block itself, and they hang over the edge. Chainguns need planning, for both proper fit and style. I would avoid them in general for building.


They certainly look nice and will complement the MMRS system but as stated they are pretty large in diameter so they don't fit without angle fittings in quite a few locations.

For good or bad I went another way with Economy fittings which fit everywhere and now I have 4 chain guns sitting unused in their package. I like em enough to keep them if I have so sell them for nada. I paid full price plus shipping from PPCs so am not looking to take a bath on them for just anybody.









~Ceadder


----------



## fakeblood

New toy arrived today.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/20160811_084836_zpsmm7khi8q.jpg.html


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Don't even have to look at the build guide... there is only one rad the produces that much gunk...
> ...
> ...
> ...
> Alphacool


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> I have mounted ekwb, xspc, magicool, alphacool, aquacomputer.... and all the same result.


Agree with galletabah! I just flushed two Alphacool XT 560 Radiators, and they were actually pretty clean, just a few small pieces.

My EKWB XE 120 radiators were 5 times worse...


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,she is full of water,now to clear the bubbles and get the OS installed.
> 
> Cross my fingers that the PSU jump wiring works correctly now......


Please leave the liquid un-dyed in this build....


----------



## Tim Drake

Do I have to clean out my rads when I upgrade my loop with two brand spanking new rads?

I'm really lazy and I will be putting in pastel but I cannot afford the blitz kit as I blew my budget on the entire loop


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Do I have to clean out my rads when I upgrade my loop with two brand spanking new rads?
> 
> I'm really lazy and I will be putting in pastel but I cannot afford the blitz kit as I blew my budget on the entire loop


What colour is the pastel? Reason I ask, is some are more Ph sensitive than others (Colour change)

TCO


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What colour is the pastel? Reason I ask, is some are more Ph sensitive than others (Colour change)
> 
> TCO


Red, yes I know, stains blah blah but red pastel will look so gorgeous in my build so I don't care.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Red, yes I know, stains blah blah but red pastel will look so gorgeous in my build so I don't care.


Wasn't going to say any of that, it's just a ph sensitive colour. Without cleaning the new rads, it might turn the red purple.

I used mayhems Aurora Red in my S3, after 8 months it was purple just using a XSPC 240mm rad.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What colour is the pastel? Reason I ask, is some are more Ph sensitive than others (Colour change)
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Red, yes I know, stains blah blah but red pastel will look so gorgeous in my build so I don't care.
Click to expand...

Reds are particularly pH sensitive, they usually turn a very ugly dark brownish purple.

If you really can't afford a Blitz kit, at least rig up an adapter to flush it from your hot water tap and run hot water thru it slowly for an hour or so, then rinse with copious amounts of distilled water.

D.

Show 'em your orange one, TCO


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> The chaingun fittings have an obnoxiously large outer diameter, and don't always fit where other compression fittings do just fine. 2 places where I have run into issues: 1. The supremacy block. The chaingun will not screw down on the outlet of the block because the EK badge is in the way. 2.My VRM block. While they screw down fine, they are wider than the block itself, and they hang over the edge. Chainguns need planning, for both proper fit and style. I would avoid them in general for building.
> 
> 
> 
> They certainly look nice and will complement the MMRS system but as stated they are pretty large in diameter so they don't fit without angle fittings in quite a few locations.
> 
> For good or bad I went another way with Economy fittings which fit everywhere and now I have 4 chain guns sitting unused in their package. I like em enough to keep them if I have so sell them for nada. I paid full price plus shipping from PPCs so am not looking to take a bath on them for just anybody.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I like the look of them too. I ordered enough to do a build before i found out about tge size issue. I still have a couple at my res and pump, but they were impossible to use on any of my blocks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Reds are particularly pH sensitive, they usually turn a very ugly dark brownish purple.
> 
> If you really can't afford a Blitz kit, at least rig up an adapter to flush it from your hot water tap and run hot water thru it slowly for an hour or so, then rinse with copious amounts of distilled water.
> 
> D.
> 
> Show 'em your orange one, TCO


Here is the S3, and the SMA8

The S3 When I first Started (No Radiator Flush)



After 8 Months



The SMA8 (First with Pastel Orange) (No Flushes)



After.... Maybe a Week




I don't mind being hardheaded or a test subject









TCO


----------



## mouacyk

Ugh what happened to that red?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Ugh what happened to that red?


No Flushing the Radiator. The Colour morphed into something that it was never supposed to be.

There is no other way to explain it. I run clear distilled now.







No Additives. Just straight water.

TCO

EDIT: I will be cleaning and flushing the SMA8 this weekend. I will show you the green after 12 months. Just wait. It will surprise you.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No Flushing the Radiator. The Colour morphed into something that it was never supposed to be.
> 
> There is no other way to explain it. *I run clear distilled now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Additives. Just straight water.*
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: I will be cleaning and flushing the SMA8 this weekend. I will show you the green after 12 months. Just wait. It will surprise you.


I'm right there with ya. I did the whole color thing in my first 2 builds. I now only run distilled with a kill coil. IMO Colors are gimmicky and clear gives it a powerful and clean feel. All about the performance while staying elegant and doing away with issues that dye brings.

I would love to see your SMA8 with the white lights turned down low with clear water. Will look great and subtle.


----------



## Tim Drake

I wish pastel wasn't so sucks when it comes to color changing :/

It's the only coolant I like at all. I'm only using it for my res too


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Reds are particularly pH sensitive, they usually turn a very ugly dark brownish purple.
> 
> If you really can't afford a Blitz kit, at least rig up an adapter to flush it from your hot water tap and run hot water thru it slowly for an hour or so, then rinse with copious amounts of distilled water.
> 
> D.
> 
> Show 'em your orange one, TCO


What kind of adapter? Is there an easier way to do it?

Also, what if I just refill the loop with pastel every, say, 2-3 months?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Reds are particularly pH sensitive, they usually turn a very ugly dark brownish purple.
> 
> If you really can't afford a Blitz kit, at least rig up an adapter to flush it from your hot water tap and run hot water thru it slowly for an hour or so, then rinse with copious amounts of distilled water.
> 
> D.
> 
> Show 'em your orange one, TCO
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of adapter? Is there an easier way to do it?
> 
> Also, what if I just refill the loop with pastel every, say, 2-3 months?
Click to expand...

You can get an adapter at you local hardware store to attach a garden hose to your kitchen faucet, and replacement garden hose ends that fit regular hardware store 1/2" ID tubing.

Makes flushing pretty easy, every 5 minutes or so shake vigorously and then let it flush a while and shake - repeat . . . .


----------



## Ceadderman

^No... just no.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> The chaingun fittings have an obnoxiously large outer diameter, and don't always fit where other compression fittings do just fine. 2 places where I have run into issues: 1. The supremacy block. The chaingun will not screw down on the outlet of the block because the EK badge is in the way. 2.My VRM block. While they screw down fine, they are wider than the block itself, and they hang over the edge. Chainguns need planning, for both proper fit and style. I would avoid them in general for building.
> 
> 
> 
> They certainly look nice and will complement the MMRS system but as stated they are pretty large in diameter so they don't fit without angle fittings in quite a few locations.
> 
> For good or bad I went another way with Economy fittings which fit everywhere and now I have 4 chain guns sitting unused in their package. I like em enough to keep them if I have so sell them for nada. I paid full price plus shipping from PPCs so am not looking to take a bath on them for just anybody.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I like the look of them too. I ordered enough to do a build before i found out about tge size issue. I still have a couple at my res and pump, but they were impossible to use on any of my blocks.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> The chaingun fittings have an obnoxiously large outer diameter, and don't always fit where other compression fittings do just fine. 2 places where I have run into issues: 1. The supremacy block. The chaingun will not screw down on the outlet of the block because the EK badge is in the way. 2.My VRM block. While they screw down fine, they are wider than the block itself, and they hang over the edge. Chainguns need planning, for both proper fit and style. I would avoid them in general for building.


I got four because they only had 1 pack in stock of the reds. But they didn't have anymore in stock for over 6 months. So I went with the economies in Red and in Black Nickel. I do have the up for sale and have the polycarbonate caps for them since they came with the acrylics which had issues but never used them either since obviously I didn't have enough on hand to complete my loop. Now I have 30 economies and am going to get the new style. Those also are unused. But again not gonna take a bath on those and will keep them on the shelf until I can sell them for a reasonable price or use them in another build. Just call me "Monsoon Collector" as I also have Free Center fit tings sit ting around too. Se people collect BP, I collect Monsoon.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> I'm right there with ya. I did the whole color thing in my first 2 builds. I now only run distilled with a kill coil. IMO Colors are gimmicky and clear gives it a powerful and clean feel. All about the performance while staying elegant and doing away with issues that dye brings.
> 
> I would love to see your SMA8 with the *white lights turned down* low with clear water. Will look great and subtle.


This won't happen, I have them hooked up to 8 way splitters (Molex for the splitter, 4pin to the splitter for the lighting) so they always run at 100%.

I think you will like the update. I aim to impress.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> What kind of adapter? Is there an easier way to do it?
> 
> Also, what if I just refill the loop with pastel every, say, 2-3 months?


Life cycle of the pastel (Granted, with proper flushing or non ph senstive colours) are good for 12 months. No need to change them ever 3 months.

That's 20$ per quarter of a year. Totally unnecessary.

TCO


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This won't happen, I have them hooked up to 8 way splitters (Molex for the splitter, 4pin to the splitter for the lighting) so they always run at 100%.
> 
> I think you will like the update. I aim to impress.
> Life cycle of the pastel (Granted, with proper flushing or non ph senstive colours) are good for 12 months. No need to change them ever 3 months.
> 
> That's 20$ per quarter of a year. Totally unnecessary.
> 
> TCO


Is it unnecessary with the ridiculous amount of cases where pastel has changed colors. I'm not a big fan of cleaning things constantly, I
want to install it then keep it installed.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Is it unnecessary with the ridiculous amount of cases where pastel has changed colors. I'm not a big fan of cleaning things constantly, *I
> want to install it then keep it installed.*


At this point, I am not sure what answer you are looking for. If you want to use pastel, you risk the pastel changing colours. The only fluid that will not change its colour is Distilled water, and distilled water only.

You want to have a show piece when you finish the build and to take pictures while riding the life out of the fluid, then use pastel.

Live a little.

The only thing that will come from using pastel, is personal experience.









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Or get colored tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or get c*olored tubing*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder




TCO


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I wish pastel wasn't so sucks when it comes to color changing :/
> 
> It's the only coolant I like at all. I'm only using it for my res too


I remember watching a video from OC3D where they showed off Monsoon (I think) coloured reserviors and matching tubing so you can use distilled water and not need pastel dyes to achieve a coloured loop.

Edit: haha just had the page refresh and saw several people beat me to this suggestion







.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or get colored tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You can get colored tubing inside a reservoir? Nice


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> You can get colored tubing inside a reservoir? Nice


You can get a colored reservoir


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or get colored tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get colored tubing inside a reservoir? Nice
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> You can get a colored reservoir


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling


You can't get a colored reservoir from an ek d5 combo and I refuse to buy anything else as I never wanted a reservoir in the first place but it's a requirement.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> You can get a colored reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can't get a colored reservoir from an ek d5 combo and I refuse to buy anything else as I never wanted a reservoir in the first place but it's a requirement.
Click to expand...

Having a res is not a requirement, it just makes things a whole lot easier.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Having a res is not a requirement, it just makes things a whole lot easier.


I have literally no other way to fill my loop unless I use qdcs but they're even worse


----------



## SlvrDragon50

You can use a T if you don't want a res in your loop.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> You can use a T if you don't want a res in your loop.


The way I'm mounting my radiators, it will be more bother than res


----------



## rathborne

Could you hide a microres behind a decorative plate so you get the benefits of the reservior without the visual detraction?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> The way I'm mounting my radiators, it will be more bother than res


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Having a res is not a requirement, it just makes things a whole lot easier.


Yup. Go back far enough and most people just did a t-connector with a hose running from the bottom of the case all the way to a fill valve on the top, a plug in the line, or nothing if they lived dangerously.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> At this point, I am not sure what answer you are looking for. If you want to use pastel, you risk the pastel changing colours. The only fluid that will not change its colour is Distilled water, and distilled water only.
> 
> You want to have a show piece when you finish the build and to take pictures while riding the life out of the fluid, then use pastel.
> 
> Live a little.
> 
> The only thing that will come from using pastel, is personal experience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Not strictly true,there are premixes around that dont change colour.

Your point does stand for Pastel tho,that crap does change colour readily.....it also leaves a sediment behind.
Personally,water ,biocide and an anticorrosive are the way forward for me,it was my goto for a long time but I recently have used a lot of pastel and aurora....both have their own problems however which has made me go back to water.


----------



## Jyve

Would ek's clear coolant fall under the same heading as water? Pertaining to this conversation?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Would ek's clear coolant fall under the same heading as water? Pertaining to this conversation?


Yes. It is an excelent coolant imo with all the good stuff already mixed in it.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> How about you put some load on them numbers? Not so sure water cooling is about idle temps


Very true. I was stress testing last night before even reading this message. I did not take pics but 100% load on GPU running Unigine Heaven gave me 40*C and 224FPS average. Prime 95 was giving me 55*C at 100% load on CPU.

I am not terribly happy with 55* after just 5 mins because I feel running it for hours would heat soak worse. When I have a free weekend, I will break out Aida 64 and see what it does in the long term.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

I find the 1080 harder to cool than a 980Ti. Perhaps it has something to do with the die size?

I find my temps a little bit high with my setup under gaming.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

When gaming I have yet to get above 35*c which is well, well within thermal limit lol


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> When gaming I have yet to get above 35*c which is well, well within thermal limit lol


What is your ambient temp?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Ah! Yes, the whole delta thing that I can't seem to understand for some reason. According to my AC thermostat which is just outside the room 73*F or about 23*C


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Ah! Yes, the whole delta thing that I can't seem to understand for some reason. According to my AC thermostat which is just outside the room 73*F or about 23*C


Temp inside the house is "Ambient"









TCO


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Oh, I know what ambient is. I just don't totally get the whole Delta temp thing going on. I kinda do but kinda dont ha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Oh, I know what ambient is. I just don't totally get the whole Delta temp thing going on. I kinda do but kinda dont ha


I think there are only a couple elements in the equation for Delta. (I am not 100% I will say that now)

Ambient temp

Temp sensor to see what Fluid Temps are

Temp of Computer

The Difference of the Temp of the fluid going in/ coming out and what temp your computer is running at Could Be Delta?

Anytime someone would care to elaborate would be great









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think there are only a couple elements in the equation for Delta. (I am not 100% I will say that now)
> 
> Ambient temp
> 
> Temp sensor to see what Fluid Temps are
> 
> Temp of Computer
> 
> The Difference of the Temp of the fluid going in/ coming out and what temp your computer is running at Could Be Delta?
> 
> Anytime someone would care to elaborate would be great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Its the difference between ambient and watertemp,you are aiming for 10-20'c between them,20c being the limit I would even consider.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Its the difference between ambient and watertemp,you are aiming for 10-20'c between them*,20c being the limit I would even consider.


In what situation? Are we speaking of under load, idle, gaming? After an Hour of Regular use?

Is the Only way to truly tell Delta, is to have a Temp Sensor in the Loop?

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> In what situation? Are we speaking of under load, idle, gaming? After an Hour of Regular use?
> 
> Is the Only way to truly tell Delta, is to have a Temp Sensor in the Loop?
> 
> TCO


I always say load temps,idle temps are inconsequential. You need to have accurate temps so a sensor in the water and a sensor for the air being brought into the rad.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I always say load temps,idle temps are inconsequential. You need to have accurate temps so a sensor in the water and a sensor for the air being brought into the rad.


So an exterior temp sensor for ambient temperature coming in, and a temp sensor for the Liquid in the loop.

Take both of those Temps (Granted, the fluid temp being under load [Ex Gaming] ) and Compare them?

IE: Ambient ingoing 26C/ Fluid Temp = 46C

Delta = 20C?

TCO


----------



## Kimir

Yup, and that's how my fan speed are regulated with Aquaero 6 XT, by the delta of water temp and ambient.
It makes the fan run smoothly at all time instead of spiking under load like when controlled by cpu temp.

But on my future rigs I would like not to have to spend 200€ on an Aquaero to do that setting, as it is set and forget. EK pleeease, where is the Signalkuppe (granted it's not as expensive, which isn't sure).


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Thanks for the explanation! I get it now but will not know what the water temps are. I can probably hook up my old fan controller and use those temp probes to get temp readings but I am pretty sure they are not water proof.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation! I get it now but will not know what the water temps are. I can probably hook up my old fan controller and use those temp probes to get temp readings but I am pretty sure they are not water proof.


You want something like this ... http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-temperature-sensor-inner-outer-thread-g1-4.html

There are others.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Oh, thank you. I am more than aware that they exist. I am just not interested in getting that detailed. If the CPU and GPU are staying well within thermal limit and I am running smooth then I just dont care about the delta lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Oh, thank you. I am more than aware that they exist. I am just not interested in getting that detailed. If the CPU and GPU are staying well within thermal limit and I am running smooth then I just dont care about the delta lol


A good pov to take,obsessing over numbers will leave you ultimately unsatisfied.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Oh, thank you. I am more than aware that they exist. I am just not interested in getting that detailed. If the CPU and GPU are staying well within thermal limit and I am running smooth then I just dont care about the delta lol


Yep. If the ambient on load goes whack, it's gonna show up quickly on component sensors too. This is why I haven't bothered with one either yet.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Ha! I knew my laziness had merit!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Oh, I know what ambient is. I just don't totally get the whole Delta temp thing going on. I kinda do but kinda dont ha
> 
> 
> 
> I think there are only a couple elements in the equation for Delta. (I am not 100% I will say that now)
> 
> Ambient temp
> 
> Temp sensor to see what Fluid Temps are
> 
> Temp of Computer
> 
> The Difference of the Temp of the fluid going in/ coming out and what temp your computer is running at Could Be Delta?
> 
> Anytime someone would care to elaborate would be great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Delta is just a difference.

So air to water delta is a difference between the air and water
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Its the difference between ambient and watertemp,you are aiming for 10-20'c between them*,20c being the limit I would even consider.
> 
> 
> 
> In what situation? Are we speaking of under load, idle, gaming? After an Hour of Regular use?
> 
> Is the Only way to truly tell Delta, is to have a Temp Sensor in the Loop?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Depends on what delta. Air temp in vs air temp out would be another way


----------



## Questors

In March of this year, I got a call to get home in a hurry if I wanted to see my father before it was too late. I managed an immediate flight and the nightmare trip began. The trip was so quick, there was no time to plan transportation for the 5 hr drive from the airport to my parents home. There was no lodging and no local transportation when I managed to get home. I still had to get the regional hospital yet another 35 minutes away. The weather was horrible with snow, freezing rain, whipping wind and bouts of mixed precipitation...seemingly to ensure no barrier to travel was left to waste. I spent 12 pain filled sleepless days with my father. Thankfully he was stable when I came back to where I live. But he remains in danger on a day to day basis. His lungs contain massive amounts of calcified asbestos and he can barely breathe. He nearly died twice for lack of blood oxygen before he was diagnosed.

I got back exhausted, strung out and in intense physical and emotional pain (I am a disabled veteran - no pity plea - strictly for clarity). I logged into OC.net to catch up and take my mind off things. That is where everything went wrong. I was such a waste case, I forgot the most important rules of Online community interaction.
[1] Don't feed the trolls.
[2] Don't engage the trolls.
[3] Ignore the trolls, lest you become a troll.
[4] See items 1 - 3 again

Quickly catching up on everything tech around the Web (really more like breezing through stuff), I posted what I honestly thought might be beneficial to someone. It was done with the best of intentions, though it was ill-received by a few. Had I not been so wrung out, allowing my judgement to fail so miserably, getting pulled in to a Troll war would not have happened. It ended up with me typing a scathing email to Admin asking them to ban my account, something, anything to keep me from being wound up that kind of mess again. To be clear, I didn't blame Admin, it just wasn't a nice message and looking back, definitely not a proud moment for me.

Our first grandchild is here safely and healthy and other coexisting concerns have been either realized or solved. A valuable lesson learned, I thought it to be about time to get back on the horse.

~ *On Topic* ~

I started revamping my last project to make it easier for me to complete. Thank goodness for EK - ZMT! The stuff works great with both XSPC and Bitspower compression fittings. Realizing the project will not be as I prefer... with acrylic tube everywhere, using a few more fittings (rather than bending so much acrylic tube) and the ZMT has really brought the project forth much faster.

There is nothing earth shattering here, thought I would share a couple pics of some fabricated case parts made to solve the problem of running the tube. CaseLabs does not make the Merlin ST10 anymore, so I didn't want to cut and drill the backplate as I did the previous one (replaced it with a new part before support expired).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Got around to redoing the SMA8 with NB Eloops. Drained both Loops and re filled, flushed with Distilled. Re Set TIM on Top GPU since it was running 10C higher.

Here goes.



After




TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

The E-Loops look alot better.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> The E-Loops look alot better.


I think so too. I am diggin the look for sure.









TCO


----------



## bpmcleod

I just finished up my current build. I have to go back in and drain the loop and fix a few small things (IE turn the pump on high and close off the top of the res and add in my custom wiring) but this is what it looks like atm. First time using hard tubing and bendind it. Mind you, this is in a Fractal Define Nano S mITX case so some of these bends were pretty tough..


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bpmcleod*
> 
> I just finished up my current build. I have to go back in and drain the loop and fix a few small things (IE turn the pump on high and close off the top of the res and add in my custom wiring) but this is what it looks like atm. First time using hard tubing and bendind it. Mind you, this is in a Fractal Define Nano S mITX case so some of these bends were pretty tough..


Hate to tell you but, go back and rebend it all. Kinda surprised you don't have any leaks...

This one is my first time bending too...




http://www.overclock.net/t/1598316


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Hate to tell you but, go back and rebend it all. Kinda surprised you don't have any leaks...
> 
> This one is my first time bending too...


Little harsh eh?

TCO


----------



## superericla

Eh, if it works, don't fix it (or do, it's your choice). The couple times I've used hard tubing (copper for a while, then acrylic) I just bent the tubing by eye without measuring anything and it ran without leaks for the entire time I used the tubing. Of course, you should leak test no matter what kind of tubing you use just to be safe.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Little harsh eh?
> 
> TCO


Sorry, just a bit of a perfectionist. Some of those bends drive my OCD crazy....


----------



## bpmcleod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Sorry,just a bit of a perfectionist. Some of those bends drive my OCD crazy....


Dont worry I am not overly happy with the bends. I will be redoing it when I get the chance but for now it doesnt leak so it works. You can overly see it in the pictures but the some of the loops have a small bend right as they go into the fitting. So it looks like they are going in crooked but are in fact in straight. With such a small case these bends are kindof tough to get. Whats the best way to measure the bends and what not?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Only run I'd recommend cleaning up is from the CPU to the 240 rad. And yes the Nano S is a small case but has a lot of room for its size. Last time I ran acrylic I just used a couple of rulers to get my measurements right.


----------



## Streetdragon

Extendet my Loop a bit.
Here you can see a good example for "Why you should not use Mastercleer Tube"
The Yellow ones are 3-4 Month old. Between the GPUs is 1 Month old.
From H240-X To CPU is a cehap ass tube from the hardware store for the garden. It is a bit harder with ID 10mm and OD 13mm or so. Like first day. lol.

But im happy with it. Cool and it fitted all "in" the antec 1100.
And i think i call it Frankenstein







Phobya,OCCool, swiftech, Mastercleer
.

What do you think about the "Scythe Grand Flex PWM" fans? I think i use them in my next build. Dont cost so much and looks good

cleaned on of the old tubes:
What is this^^


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No Flushing the Radiator. The Colour morphed into something that it was never supposed to be.
> 
> There is no other way to explain it. I run clear distilled now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Additives. Just straight water.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: I will be cleaning and flushing the SMA8 this weekend. I will show you the green after 12 months. Just wait. It will surprise you.


Did you get flooded out the last couple of days?


----------



## prznar1

Here we go, inwin 303


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really want the white version since we got a ton in stock, along with 805's,707's, and 905's


----------



## prznar1

This case is cool, but not so easy to work with. Tbh my old cent 590 was easier to work







but this one looks damn epic.


----------



## prznar1

You may not see it in this pic, but take a 90 degree and 45 degree fittings fot radiator, pump is different in each loop, but if you plan mounting radiator as me, get them, it will be a time saver.


----------



## prznar1

I have probably killed my mobo. Upon deinstalation of parts i have noticed that i have not put washers under screws for cpu mounting and i can see copper tracers







ive done maintnance mamy times for my loop and i have no idea how i could forget aboutthem this time.







.

Edit. And now i even dropped my cpu. Meh, bad day for me.


----------



## Mega Man

;(


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bpmcleod*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Sorry,just a bit of a perfectionist. Some of those bends drive my OCD crazy....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont worry I am not overly happy with the bends. I will be redoing it when I get the chance but for now it doesnt leak so it works. You can overly see it in the pictures but the some of the loops have a small bend right as they go into the fitting. So it looks like they are going in crooked but are in fact in straight. With such a small case these bends are kindof tough to get. Whats the best way to measure the bends and what not?
Click to expand...

You can get a monsoon measurement system. It comes with everything necessary to measure out your bends center of the fitting to center of the connection fitting.



$15 @ Performance-PCS.com









~Ceadder


----------



## prznar1

Im not satisfied. Should have stayed with clear.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> 
> 
> Im not satisfied. Should have stayed with clear.


Add fans with this color scheme:

http://cougargaming.com/products/fans/cfd_green_led_fan/

and I think it will look good. Just not enough matching color otherwise I like the tubing myself.


----------



## prznar1

Mobo is working, atleast bootable







lucky me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Add fans with this color scheme:
> 
> http://cougargaming.com/products/fans/cfd_green_led_fan/
> 
> and I think it will look good. Just not enough matching color otherwise I like the tubing myself.


nah, after some time ill ditch the green and will get clear/uv blue dye. BTW this green is not from tube, its dye


----------



## prznar1

Well, ill have to find different motherboard probably. Earlier i had problems with boot and not detected tam, but system was starting after few restarts. Probably typical z77 issue with cold solder.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Did you get flooded out the last couple of days?


Yes We are. I had to abandon the apartment. I rebuilt the SMA8 on Friday at 2pm. The river that I live next to crept up over 18" (1.5Feet) and I had to leave my pad, with the SMA8 In it. I should have about 6" of water in the apartment right now. I left the SMA8 on my counter in the kitchen (One of the highest points in the house)

The Counter was 3.5feet off of the ground. So the water needs to rise another 3feet in order to start to demolish The SMA8. I am really concerned at the moment.

TCO


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yes We are. I had to abandon the apartment. I rebuilt the SMA8 on Friday at 2pm. The river that I live next to crept up over 18" (1.5Feet) and I had to leave my pad, with the SMA8 In it. I should have about 6" of water in the apartment right now. I left the SMA8 on my counter in the kitchen (One of the highest points in the house)
> 
> The Counter was 3.5feet off of the ground. So the water needs to rise another 3feet in order to start to demolish The SMA8. I am really concerned at the moment.
> 
> TCO


I hope you learned it is time to move away from the water


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes We are. I had to abandon the apartment. I rebuilt the SMA8 on Friday at 2pm. The river that I live next to crept up over 18" (1.5Feet) and I had to leave my pad, with the SMA8 In it. I should have about 6" of water in the apartment right now. I left the SMA8 on my counter in the kitchen (One of the highest points in the house)
> 
> The Counter was 3.5feet off of the ground. So the water needs to rise another 3feet in order to start to demolish The SMA8. I am really concerned at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The Concerned one...

We're hoping for you! I'd be a nervous wreck


----------



## Deeptek

Put my 2 970s with EK Waterblocks on the market at a killer price if anyone is interested. Here is the link http://www.overclock.net/t/1595109/2-gigabyte-970s-with-ek-waterblocks-backplates-price-updated-again


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Put my 2 970s with EK Waterblocks on the market at a killer price if anyone is interested. Here is the link http://www.overclock.net/t/1595109/2-gigabyte-970s-with-ek-waterblocks-backplates-price-updated-again


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Put my 2 970s with EK Waterblocks on the market at a killer price if anyone is interested. Here is the link http://www.overclock.net/t/1595109/2-gigabyte-970s-with-ek-waterblocks-backplates-price-updated-again


Ummm, do you realize how old that link is?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Ummm, do you realize how old that link is?


Apparently they have been on sale for 5 months...but he updated it today! lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I hope you learned it is time to move away from the water


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> The Concerned one...
> 
> We're hoping for you! I'd be a nervous wreck


Thanks yall. Water hasn't risen at all, so we should be good. Looks like there might be a small storm later on today, but still no way for me to grab the PC. It will have to stay where it is.

And yes, I think it might be time to move away from the river.

TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Ummm, do you realize how old that link is?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks yall. Water hasn't risen at all, so we should be good. Looks like there might be a small storm later on today, but still no way for me to grab the PC. It will have to stay where it is.
> 
> And yes, I think it might be time to move away from the river.
> 
> TCO


Or get a canoe.

The Canoeing One.


----------



## DarthBaggins

lmao. .


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yes We are. I had to abandon the apartment. I rebuilt the SMA8 on Friday at 2pm. The river that I live next to crept up over 18" (1.5Feet) and I had to leave my pad, with the SMA8 In it. I should have about 6" of water in the apartment right now. I left the SMA8 on my counter in the kitchen (One of the highest points in the house)
> 
> The Counter was 3.5feet off of the ground. So the water needs to rise another 3feet in order to start to demolish The SMA8. I am really concerned at the moment.
> 
> TCO


That sucks! I'm in BR, no flooding where I am, but I know plenty of people who have had to evacuate. I don't think the water will get that high. This kinda reminds me of Katrina. It's even hard to find stores open. I hope everything is ok, and the water starts dropping soon. I have an SUV if we need to go rescue the SMA8.

Just let me know, you're only an hour away. My daughter's school is flooded. I'm not sure what's going to happen there. It's not even near as river or a creek. With 18" of rain, I guess it doesn't matter where you are to get flooded.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Apparently they have been on sale for 5 months...but he updated it today! lol


Lol yes. And now they are sold!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> That sucks! I'm in BR, no flooding where I am, but I know plenty of people who have had to evacuate. I don't think the water will get that high. This kinda reminds me of Katrina. It's even hard to find stores open. I hope everything is ok, and the water starts dropping soon. I have an SUV if we need to go rescue the SMA8.
> 
> Just let me know, you're only an hour away. My daughter's school is flooded. I'm not sure what's going to happen there. It's not even near as river or a creek. With 18" of rain, I guess it doesn't matter where you are to get flooded.


Trying to line up another apartment. SMA8 was all good though. Untouched. It's just the monitors... damn, I was finally rocking a 4k you know?

I still don't know if the monitor is trashed or not, it just took a hard knock when falling on it's face on my desk. Not sure if it has water damage or anything just yet. But my 1440p was broken on the corner, it was 2 years old also... so theres that.

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

:/ what state you live in?


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> That sucks! I'm in BR, no flooding where I am, but I know plenty of people who have had to evacuate. I don't think the water will get that high. This kinda reminds me of Katrina. It's even hard to find stores open. I hope everything is ok, and the water starts dropping soon. I have an SUV if we need to go rescue the SMA8.
> 
> Just let me know, you're only an hour away. My daughter's school is flooded. I'm not sure what's going to happen there. It's not even near as river or a creek. With 18" of rain, I guess it doesn't matter where you are to get flooded.
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to line up another apartment. SMA8 was all good though. Untouched. It's just the monitors... damn, I was finally rocking a 4k you know?
> 
> I still don't know if the monitor is trashed or not, it just took a hard knock when falling on it's face on my desk. Not sure if it has water damage or anything just yet. But my 1440p was broken on the corner, it was 2 years old also... so theres that.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Man that's a hard one to swallow. Glad to hear the PC is safe.

I actually just move to Baton Rogue myself on Thursday (right as the rain started) I hope this isn't the normal weather for this area. I already regret not bringing my canoe and/or kayak. I didn't think I'd need it to paddle to classes. Thankfully I'm on the 2nd story of my apartment complex so I should be safe as long as I dont get stranded.


----------



## fisher6

My loop has a 360 and 240 rad with 5 Noctua NFF-12 fans running at 800 RPM all the time. I noticed that while gaming my CPU hits 75C (4790k @4.7Ghz) sometimes, GPU is around 45-55C. Case is Define S. Is this normal for this set up and fan speed or are the temps too high? Loop has been running for a year now so maybe it's time for the annual checkup.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> My loop has a 360 and 240 rad with 5 Noctua NFF-12 fans running at 800 RPM all the time. I noticed that while gaming my CPU hits 75C (4790k @4.7Ghz) sometimes, GPU is around 45-55C. Case is Define S. Is this normal for this set up and fan speed or are the temps too high? Loop has been running for a year now so maybe it's time for the annual checkup.


my 4790k @4.6 GHz reaches 62°C while 980ti 38°C. I've got 1900mm of rad area(MoRa2 pro,480 GTS and Ex360 with two D5 pumps) max water temp is 27.6°C which is only about 5-7 over ambient, I think my cooling is pretty good, yet still 4790k reaches temps I don't like. I think they just run a bit hot?


----------



## GTRtank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> My loop has a 360 and 240 rad with 5 Noctua NFF-12 fans running at 800 RPM all the time. I noticed that while gaming my CPU hits 75C (4790k @4.7Ghz) sometimes, GPU is around 45-55C. Case is Define S. Is this normal for this set up and fan speed or are the temps too high? Loop has been running for a year now so maybe it's time for the annual checkup.


Honestly sounds about right. I have the predator 360 in push/pull, a nemesis 280 rad, also in push pull, and another mx60 pump, and I get 55c @5.0, and gpu is at 40c. My CPU is delidded though so that will make a difference. 140 fans are at 1100, and 120s are at 1500. Pumps are at 80%. So since you are only running push or pull, and not delidded, I think that sounds fine. What are you voltages on the DC?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> my 4790k @4.6 GHz reaches 62°C while 980ti 38°C. I've got 1900mm of rad area(MoRa2 pro,480 GTS and Ex360 with two D5 pumps) max water temp is 27.6°C which is only about 5-7 over ambient, I think my cooling is pretty good, yet still 4790k reaches temps I don't like. I think they just run a bit hot?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTRtank*
> 
> Honestly sounds about right. I have the predator 360 in push/pull, a nemesis 280 rad, also in push pull, and another mx60 pump, and I get 55c @5.0, and gpu is at 40c. My CPU is delidded though so that will make a difference. 140 fans are at 1100, and 120s are at 1500. Pumps are at 80%. So since you are only running push or pull, and not delidded, I think that sounds fine. What are you voltages on the DC?


55C for the GPU ( 980Ti @ 1540Mhz) is really max in games like the Witcher 3. The CPU is at 1.3V and not delidded. Tbh it doesn't bother me, everything is very quiet and I'll take that any day. My D5 pump is on the third option for speed (out of 5 total).


----------



## Deeptek

Got a good amount of watercooling stuff over in the market now.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1608696/bitspower-ram-blocks-w-dimm-covers-bitspower-fittings-3-4-swifttech-d5-aquacomputer-aqualis-top-bitspower-mod-top-ek-540-we-rad


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> :/ what state you live in?


Louisiana









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Man that's a hard one to swallow. Glad to hear the PC is safe.
> 
> I actually just move to Baton Rogue myself on Thursday (right as the rain started) I hope this isn't the normal weather for this area. I already regret not bringing my canoe and/or kayak. I didn't think I'd need it to paddle to classes. Thankfully I'm on the 2nd story of my apartment complex so I should be safe as long as I dont get stranded.


A flood like this hasn't happened since 1940ish... It was called a 100year flood. Now the 100 year flood means that we could have one every year, but it is only 1% Chance.












The Outside of my Apartment before the water rose even more.



TCO


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I know people like to push the limits of watercooling, but submerging your whole house seems like overkill.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

^ How to make a LOL out of a terrible situation


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> I know people like to push the limits of watercooling, but submerging your whole house seems like overkill.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> ^ How to make a LOL out of a terrible situation


What if I told you that was from a leak in the SMA8 ?









TCO


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Man that's a hard one to swallow. Glad to hear the PC is safe.
> 
> I actually just move to Baton Rogue myself on Thursday (right as the rain started) I hope this isn't the normal weather for this area. I already regret not bringing my canoe and/or kayak. I didn't think I'd need it to paddle to classes. Thankfully I'm on the 2nd story of my apartment complex so I should be safe as long as I dont get stranded.


No, this weather isn't normal. Places are flooding that usually never flood, and I know quite a few people who lost their homes. Luckily, I'm in a higher part of Baton Rouge, and the only flooding we had was on the streets when the rain was really heavy. It's supposed to start raining again tomorrow until Thursday.


----------



## prznar1

Some better pic (aint best because i dont own any photo camera. Only in cell phone). Mobi will be changed. Asrock z77 extreme4 is on its way. I hope i will be able to change the mobo without taking loop apart.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Trying to line up another apartment. SMA8 was all good though. Untouched. It's just the monitors... damn, I was finally rocking a 4k you know?
> 
> I still don't know if the monitor is trashed or not, it just took a hard knock when falling on it's face on my desk. Not sure if it has water damage or anything just yet. But my 1440p was broken on the corner, it was 2 years old also... so theres that.
> 
> TCO


I have 3 Samsung 4K monitors, and I'm wanting to upgrade to something larger. These are all 28" so if you're interested in one let me know.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> :/ what state you live in?


Louisiana


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Louisiana
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A flood like this hasn't happened since 1940ish... It was called a 100year flood. Now the 100 year flood means that we could have one every year, but it is only 1% Chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Outside of my Apartment before the water rose even more.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Good thing you're in an apartment. You can go salvage everything that's not wet and find another place to live, instead of having to fix the place up again. A friend of mine was stuck on the 2nd floor of his house. Other people in his neighborhood, who had single story houses, were stuck on the roof.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What if I told you that was from a leak in the SMA8 ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Then changing your coolant was long overdue. Might have been that orange.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Good thing you're in an apartment. You can go salvage everything that's not wet and find another place to live, instead of having to fix the place up again. A friend of mine was stuck on the 2nd floor of his house. Other people in his neighborhood, who had single story houses, were stuck on the roof.


That's the good part, is that it wasn't my house.

TCO


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> My loop has a 360 and 240 rad with 5 Noctua NFF-12 fans running at 800 RPM all the time. I noticed that while gaming my CPU hits 75C (4790k @4.7Ghz) sometimes, GPU is around 45-55C. Case is Define S. Is this normal for this set up and fan speed or are the temps too high? Loop has been running for a year now so maybe it's time for the annual checkup.


I have 40mm less radiator but my 4790K is delided (same GPU). My CPU peaks at around 60c during games, average about 50c. I hit 85c in an OCCT AVX Line pack. So I don't think 75c is crazy. Maybe try reapplying your TIM.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Tough break Colin. Hope you get your stuff sorted.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tough break Colin. Hope you get your stuff sorted.


Main thing was the SMA8. Appears to be just clothes and furniture from there. We talked to an apartment already about a new pad so things are moving in the right direction. I appreciate the comment Daniel. I really do. Been a little stressful for the past couple days.

TCO


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> My loop has a 360 and 240 rad with 5 Noctua NFF-12 fans running at 800 RPM all the time. I noticed that while gaming my CPU hits 75C (4790k @4.7Ghz) sometimes, GPU is around 45-55C. Case is Define S. Is this normal for this set up and fan speed or are the temps too high? Loop has been running for a year now so maybe it's time for the annual checkup.


What were the temps when the loop was fresh? This delta will tell you the health of your loop.

For your amount of rad space, I think the temps are too high. I have 360 + 120 only, 4.7GHz 4790K at 1.32v, maxed out 980 TI at 1.274v, and mobo VRMs in the loop. Ambient is a steady 20C. BF4 load temps max at 50C and GPU maxes at 42C with an 8-month old loop. Try upping your fans to see if it reduces your temps significantly.

@TCO - Perhaps Louisiana's water loop leaked! Or it just needed a good dousing due to throttling.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Main thing was the SMA8. Appears to be just clothes and furniture from there. We talked to an apartment already about a new pad so things are moving in the right direction. I appreciate the comment Daniel. I really do. Been a little stressful for the past couple days.
> 
> TCO


Sorry to hear that man, we got some flooding as well (thankfully not exactly where I am) but nothing like what Baton Rouge did.


----------



## Kyouki

Got the water block on the new Titan X, still waiting on back plate but here a few decent pictures. I was hoping the outlet of GPU block to inlet of CPU was going to line up but what's another 90° angle lol


----------



## emsj86

By any chance someone know the size of extenders I will need to go from supremacy Evo to a bits power Galaxy ram block. Basically I want to go 90 from cou to 90 on the ram block using a straight run. I think I will need 30mm spacers but if someone knows the exact spacers/extenders need that would help me a lot thank you


----------



## DarthBaggins

Why BitsPower? Why not use EK's memory blocks?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I have 40mm less radiator but my 4790K is delided (same GPU). My CPU peaks at around 60c during games, average about 50c. I hit 85c in an OCCT AVX Line pack. So I don't think 75c is crazy. Maybe try reapplying your TIM.


That's not bad. I7 4790k run hot. Small surface area which I would have gone x99 at the time bigger surface easier to move the heat. I run 4790k at 4.7 with 1.29 volts. 2x 780 at a small of of 1200mhz.1.21 v. And Gaming my
Cpu is at 65 ish (480 and 360 rad). Now depends what your ambient temp is (mine is 74/76 degrees) also depends on your fan profile. I run 800rpms up until 55 degrees where they run 1800. A lot of factors from one build to the next. But yea for temps gaming low 60s occt 68 hottest core , and Gpus never see past 40 even with fans at 800rpms


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's not bad. I7 4790k run hot. Small surface area which I would have gone x99 at the time bigger surface easier to move the heat. I run 4790k at 4.7 with 1.29 volts. 2x 780 at a small of of 1200mhz.1.21 v. And Gaming my
> Cpu is at 65 ish (480 and 360 rad). Now depends what your ambient temp is (mine is 74/76 degrees) also depends on your fan profile. I run 800rpms up until 55 degrees where they run 1800. A lot of factors from one build to the next. But yea for temps gaming low 60s occt 68 hottest core , and Gpus never see past 40 even with fans at 800rpms




82c when benching probably no higher when stressing but I use X264 for stressing.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Got the water block on the new Titan X, still waiting on back plate but here a few decent pictures. I was hoping the outlet of GPU block to inlet of CPU was going to line up but what's another 90° angle lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!


Beautiful card, and build.









I seem to have started spontaneous drooling.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Beautiful card, and build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seem to have started spontaneous drooling.


Let me help you! Ran a few more runs before bed!


I'll be posting more pictures in the log http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/


----------



## Chucklez

So just finished up my first watercooling loop! Not the cleanest thing in the world but I like it and I'm proud of it!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Let me help you! Ran a few more runs before bed!
> 
> 
> I'll be posting more pictures in the log http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/


Looks good.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sorry to hear that man, we got some flooding as well (thankfully not exactly where I am) but nothing like what Baton Rouge did.


Yea, I was wondering how Tx was doing, I know the storm stayed there a couple days too.

TCO


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea, I was wondering how Tx was doing, I know the storm stayed there a couple days too.
> 
> TCO


Dallas here, I'm out of town, but mom said nothing like you guys got. Off and on storms, so good here. How much more rain y'all looking at?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@Chucklez - Have you considered 60-degree rotary fittings for that super-curved tube? It would be a straight piece then.


----------



## Chucklez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> @Chucklez - Have you considered 60-degree rotary fittings for that super-curved tube? It would be a straight piece then.


Ive thought about it but surprisingly I kinda like it? I dont know its weird at first I kinda didnt like it and was going to buy different fittings but its grown on me, kinda weird I know haha.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> What were the temps when the loop was fresh? This delta will tell you the health of your loop.
> 
> For your amount of rad space, I think the temps are too high. I have 360 + 120 only, 4.7GHz 4790K at 1.32v, maxed out 980 TI at 1.274v, and mobo VRMs in the loop. Ambient is a steady 20C. BF4 load temps max at 50C and GPU maxes at 42C with an 8-month old loop. Try upping your fans to see if it reduces your temps significantly.
> 
> @TCO - Perhaps Louisiana's water loop leaked! Or it just needed a good dousing due to throttling.


GPU has been the same but the CPU I think has gotten hotter over the months I think. I don't recall it reaching 75-80C while gaming 6 months ago even with 800 RPM.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> GPU has been the same but the CPU I think has gotten hotter over the months I think. I don't recall it reaching 75-80C while gaming 6 months ago even with 800 RPM.


Check that thermal paste.


----------



## Streetdragon

i think there is some crap in the cpu-block that blocks it a bit. Have the same "problem" and liquid metal wont get "bad"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Remember that Corsair build I did?

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/single?id=catalyst

WoooooooooooOOOOOOOOp!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Remember that Corsair build I did?
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/single?id=catalyst
> 
> WoooooooooooOOOOOOOOp!


Pretty awesome! You still have that rig?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice







bet the guys over at Corsair are loving that one over the 600c they were rocking around to Expo's:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Pretty awesome! You still have that rig?


I lost the custody battle,she now lives at Corsairs house....

I dont even get visitation rights........


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Remember that Corsair build I did?
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/single?id=catalyst
> 
> WoooooooooooOOOOOOOOp!


Did you get to play with the fans at all? And how did you rate them?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I lost the custody battle,she now lives at Corsairs house....
> 
> I dont even get visitation rights........


You should at least get every-other weekend rights! It's a shame how the man keeps down the fathers haha


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I lost the custody battle,she now lives at Corsairs house....
> 
> I dont even get visitation rights........


Dang....did you have anything in it as far as funds/parts?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Found a video of Magoo when he was a puppeh...




Some things cannot be unseen.....


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Found a video of Magoo when he was a puppeh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some things cannot be unseen.....


Even though I knew what I was about to see, it has still scarred my soul.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Even though I knew what I was about to see, it has still scarred my soul.


Its the bit where he speeds up for the chugging riff,had me laughing for hours now......


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its the bit where he speeds up for the chugging riff,had me laughing for hours now......


Lol literal horn dog.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Remember that Corsair build I did?
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/single?id=catalyst
> 
> WoooooooooooOOOOOOOOp!


Congrats!

Nice gallery they did for it, ya gotta click on those photos to do it justice.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Found a video of Magoo when he was a puppeh...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some things cannot be unseen.....


Dogs will be dogs.


----------



## Chucklez

Welp after 24 hours now of a sucessful leak test I have finished everything buttoned up the case and Im really happy with my first watercooling attempt! Temps are decently cool at idle 30*C for CPU and 40*C for both GPU's at idle (My room is 20*C+ ambient) havent tried load temps yet as I JUST finished installing Windows and such and haven't installed anything yet but that's soon to come!


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chucklez*
> 
> Welp after 24 hours now of a sucessful leak test I have finished everything buttoned up the case and Im really happy with my first watercooling attempt! Temps are decently cool at idle 30*C for CPU and 40*C for both GPU's at idle (My room is 20*C+ ambient) havent tried load temps yet as I JUST finished installing Windows and such and haven't installed anything yet but that's soon to come!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those Corsair ML Pro series fans?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chucklez*
> 
> Welp after 24 hours now of a sucessful leak test I have finished everything buttoned up the case and Im really happy with my first watercooling attempt! Temps are decently cool at idle 30*C for CPU and 40*C for both GPU's at idle (My room is 20*C+ ambient) havent tried load temps yet as I JUST finished installing Windows and such and haven't installed anything yet but that's soon to come!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those Corsair ML Pro series fans?
Click to expand...

No, the cross members on the ML fans are a straight X, different than the usual angled X most fan cross members are.


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> No, the cross members on the ML fans are a straight X, different than the usual angled X most fan cross members are.


Ah, ok thanks.


----------



## Chucklez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Are those Corsair ML Pro series fans?


No they are not, they are regular Corsair LED AF and SP fans!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> No, the cross members on the ML fans are a straight X, different than the usual angled X most fan cross members are.


^^ What he said haha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@[email protected]

Water is over essentially.

To the Community. The SMA8 is in it's new home safe and sound. Monitors still have yet to be tried. Keep your fingers crossed.

TCO


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @[email protected]
> 
> Water is over essentially.
> 
> To the Community. The SMA8 is in it's new home safe and sound. Monitors still have yet to be tried. Keep your fingers crossed.
> 
> TCO


Good to hear, keep us posted. Hopefully those monitors start up with no issues.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Good to hear, keep us posted. Hopefully those monitors start up with no issues.


Will Do. Won't have internet in the new apartment until Next Tues. But I will boot up the PC to see how many problems I encounter (Or Don't Encounter hopefully)

TCO


----------



## eucalyptus

I am about to work a lot with "normall push-in" fittings. Both for my new project and the new Monsoon fittings I got.

Right now I only have experience from Monsoon's hardline with UV-glue stuff, which isn't very well, and I failed hard, because, yes it's leaking.

So I wonder, have anyone failed with normal compression fittings? (Yes, of course rigid tubing). I don't see anyone reporting they ever have any leaks or anything?









And I also wonder how in the easiest way measure and mounts the tubing.

Let's say you have two pieces that are mounted, how do you get the tubing in between, like the picture down below.


----------



## ruffhi

I had a small leak with monsoon hard fittings (the old econ fittings and rigid tubing) but that was user error. I didn't tighten the fitting down enough. I tried finger tight but ended up having to use the 'spanner'.

Re measuring ... I measured the 'lip' on the econ fitting (it inside / top of fitting to where the tub beds in) and then measured outside of fitting A to outside of fitting B. Then my required tube length was ...

_A to B + 2 x Lip depth_


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am about to work a lot with "normall push-in" fittings. Both for my new project and the new Monsoon fittings I got.
> 
> Right now I only have experience from Monsoon's hardline with UV-glue stuff, which isn't very well, and I failed hard, because, yes it's leaking.
> 
> So I wonder, have anyone failed with normal compression fittings? (Yes, of course rigid tubing). I don't see anyone reporting they ever have any leaks or anything?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I also wonder how in the easiest way measure and mounts the tubing.
> 
> Let's say you have two pieces that are mounted, how do you get the tubing in between, like the picture down below.


Cut it a little bit long and then slowly trim until it's perfect. Measure twice, cut once.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am about to work a lot with "normall push-in" fittings. Both for my new project and the new Monsoon fittings I got.
> 
> Right now I only have experience from Monsoon's hardline with UV-glue stuff, which isn't very well, and I failed hard, because, yes it's leaking.
> 
> So I wonder, have anyone failed with normal compression fittings? (Yes, of course rigid tubing). I don't see anyone reporting they ever have any leaks or anything?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I also wonder how in the easiest way measure and mounts the tubing.
> 
> Let's say you have two pieces that are mounted, how do you get the tubing in between, like the picture down below.


Put the fitting on the end and flex it into place,screw the fitting in,silicone grease helps massively with this.

Also,a quick build for ASUS to display their AURA LED thingy.....


----------



## STIguy312

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am about to work a lot with "normall push-in" fittings. Both for my new project and the new Monsoon fittings I got.
> 
> Right now I only have experience from Monsoon's hardline with UV-glue stuff, which isn't very well, and I failed hard, because, yes it's leaking.
> 
> So I wonder, have anyone failed with normal compression fittings? (Yes, of course rigid tubing). I don't see anyone reporting they ever have any leaks or anything?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I also wonder how in the easiest way measure and mounts the tubing.
> 
> Let's say you have two pieces that are mounted, how do you get the tubing in between, like the picture down below.


I use PrimoChill Revolver rigid tube compression fittings and have not had an issue with them in a year. The compression nut a just snugged down on the second revision of my current build. The previous revision I used the included wrench which was a bit overkill IMO.

Check out my rig in my profile to see how I wedged a tube between to semi rigid bodies. Don't cut yourself short or else it won't seal properly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Final-ish pics up!











More in the log!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1605575/sponsored-milspec-ii-a-caselabs-bh4-build/0_20


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Final-ish pics up!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More in the log!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1605575/sponsored-milspec-ii-a-caselabs-bh4-build/0_20


Yes sir, awesome work! Always amazing stuff.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I had a small leak with monsoon hard fittings (the old econ fittings and rigid tubing) but that was user error. I didn't tighten the fitting down enough. I tried finger tight but ended up having to use the 'spanner'.
> 
> Re measuring ... I measured the 'lip' on the econ fitting (it inside / top of fitting to where the tub beds in) and then measured outside of fitting A to outside of fitting B. Then my required tube length was ...
> 
> _A to B + 2 x Lip depth_


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Cut it a little bit long and then slowly trim until it's perfect. Measure twice, cut once.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Put the fitting on the end and flex it into place,screw the fitting in,silicone grease helps massively with this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *STIguy312*
> 
> I use PrimoChill Revolver rigid tube compression fittings and have not had an issue with them in a year. The compression nut a just snugged down on the second revision of my current build. The previous revision I used the included wrench which was a bit overkill IMO.
> 
> Check out my rig in my profile to see how I wedged a tube between to semi rigid bodies. Don't cut yourself short or else it won't seal properly.


Thank you my friends


----------



## TheCautiousOne

*ALRIGHT!!*

Great News. The TV and PS4 (That had water dripping on them) all still work.

My 1440p Monitor (QNIX 2710 Side Monitor) that is used as a side monitor, has a little water damage, screen isn't broken and still displays most colours and is perfect to monitor temps, itunes, etc.

The 2160P Monitor, Crossover 324K 32" Screen had a small pin sized mark in the coating of the screen where it appears hit the keyboard on it's transition of gravity to the desk after the roof fell on it.
Works Perfectly. Not cracked broken, no dead pixels, colour loss.

EXCELLENT.

TCO


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> *ALRIGHT!!*
> 
> Great News. The TV and PS4 (That had water dripping on them) all still work.
> 
> My 1440p Monitor (QNIX 2710 Side Monitor) that is used as a side monitor, has a little water damage, screen isn't broken and still displays most colours and is perfect to monitor temps, itunes, etc.
> 
> The 2160P Monitor, Crossover 324K 32" Screen had a small pin sized mark in the coating of the screen where it appears hit the keyboard on it's transition of gravity to the desk after the roof fell on it.
> Works Perfectly. Not cracked broken, no dead pixels, colour loss.
> 
> EXCELLENT.
> 
> TCO


Nice, great to hear such good news TCO.


----------



## prznar1

Very nice chucklez







great build. Any daylight pictures?


----------



## kgtuning

Hello guys, Im starting to switch over to Acrylic tubing.. here's my current setup. The MB is a Gigabyte X99 UD5 wifi with a 5820K. The video cards are Evga 970 FTW's. Is there a better way to route the tubing? just looking for some thoughts.



I know its a mixed bag of fittings currently but the rest of my EK fittings will be here in a few days.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Reservoir and divider ready. Getting there:


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Reservoir and divider ready. Getting there:


I really like that fan hole





















Looks like a wheel of a Ferrari


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> *ALRIGHT!!*
> 
> Great News. The TV and PS4 (That had water dripping on them) all still work.
> 
> My 1440p Monitor (QNIX 2710 Side Monitor) that is used as a side monitor, has a little water damage, screen isn't broken and still displays most colours and is perfect to monitor temps, itunes, etc.
> 
> The 2160P Monitor, Crossover 324K 32" Screen had a small pin sized mark in the coating of the screen where it appears hit the keyboard on it's transition of gravity to the desk after the roof fell on it.
> Works Perfectly. Not cracked broken, no dead pixels, colour loss.
> 
> EXCELLENT.
> 
> TCO


At least you are alive!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> At least you are alive!


Very True









I am ready to get my internet set up, and start playing again.

TCO


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Put the fitting on the end and flex it into place,screw the fitting in,silicone grease helps massively with this.
> 
> Also,a quick build for ASUS to display their AURA LED thingy.....


Where are the LED thingies?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Put the fitting on the end and flex it into place,screw the fitting in,silicone grease helps massively with this.
> 
> Also,a quick build for ASUS to display their AURA LED thingy.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What fans are those? They look classy! Very nice


----------



## DarthBaggins

The sticker states alpenfahns (so?)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

MMRS res......worst threading I have ever seen and no return feed tube to get it below the waterline,much fail here.

Lovely to look at tho.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MMRS res......worst threading I have ever seen and no return feed tube to get it below the waterline,much fail here.
> 
> Lovely to look at tho.


thx for that, I was gonna get d5 tops from overclockers.co.uk as they look quite nice but good ol' Watercool it is then







at least I know that machining and finish is absolutely top level on anything from Aquacomputer and Watercool.


----------



## eucalyptus

This sLight I got is HUGE























665 x 240mm









http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2854008/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MMRS res......worst threading I have ever seen and no return feed tube to get it below the waterline,much fail here.
> 
> Lovely to look at tho.


Contact Boxgods and give feedback. I'm sure he'd appreciate it. He has a couple threads here specifically for product feedback.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I really like that fan hole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a wheel of a Ferrari










That was the idea. It was actually from this:


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MMRS res......worst threading I have ever seen and no return feed tube to get it below the waterline,much fail here.
> 
> Lovely to look at tho.


That's unfortunate to hear. I was kinda eyeing that res too. The return feed tube isn't a huge deal in my situation. When you say threading I'm assuming you mean the port threads? What fittings are you having issues with.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> This sLight I got is HUGE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 665 x 240mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2854008/


Nice!









I had a sLight in my TJ07, love them.
Is that sLight from Martmamod/Stempel Hauser?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I really like that fan hole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a wheel of a Ferrari
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was the idea. It was actually from this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Glad that eucalyptus brought that up, I was wondering about the unique shape of it.

Very cool, Gabe!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> That's unfortunate to hear. I was kinda eyeing that res too. The return feed tube isn't a huge deal in my situation. When you say threading I'm assuming you mean the port threads? What fittings are you having issues with.


Badly cut threads,all the fittings I have to hand are incredibly tight.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Badly cut threads,all the fittings I have to hand are incredibly tight.


That's a bummer. Maybe you got a bad one? Can only hope.


----------



## DerComissar

Everybody be sure to note what page this is:
10,000!!!









Congratulations B NEG!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a sLight in my TJ07, love them.
> Is that sLight from Martmamod/Stempel Hauser?
> Glad that eucalyptus brought that up, I was wondering about the unique shape of it.
> 
> Very cool, Gabe!


It is























Well, I can't give any links, I am maybe not even allowed to say that he sponsored me with this piece - the rules on OC are stopping me.. I have a build log at bit tech









Thaaaanks though


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Everybody be sure to note what page this is:
> 10,000!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations B NEG!


I have 100 post per page or 50, only 2500 pages for me







xD

Although, this is post 99994, almost 100 000


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a sLight in my TJ07, love them.
> Is that sLight from Martmamod/Stempel Hauser?
> Glad that eucalyptus brought that up, I was wondering about the unique shape of it.
> 
> Very cool, Gabe!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I can't give any links, I am maybe not even allowed to say that he sponsored me with this piece - the rules on OC are stopping me.. I have a build log at bit tech
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thaaaanks though
Click to expand...

That's ok, I know their work is excellent.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Everybody be sure to note what page this is:
> 10,000!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations B NEG!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 100 post per page or 50, only 2500 pages for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> xD
> 
> Although, this is post 99994, almost 100 000
Click to expand...

Yeah, you're right, post #100,000 will be here before we know it!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a sLight in my TJ07, love them.
> Is that sLight from Martmamod/Stempel Hauser?
> Glad that eucalyptus brought that up, I was wondering about the unique shape of it.
> 
> Very cool, Gabe!


Thanks mate. A lot yet to come on that build since I have some set backs on the paint side. Right now peeling off the remains of original and the "new" powder coating made on it...


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've heard various people having threading issues on the monsoon res's


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> A lot yet to come on that build since I have some set backs on the paint side. Right now peeling off the remains of original and the "new" powder coating made on it...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a mess. It can only look better from here.

I've decided to draw a line under my build. Some items remain on the wish list ... and I will get around to those as and when I can.










CaseLabs S5 with Pedestal
Motherboard: ASUS X99-M WS
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4 3200
Liquid cooled with 2 x 360 rads, Monsoon reservoir, heatkiller IV CPU block, Cryorig fans up the wazoo

More pictures in my build log.

I am resisting the urge to post 4 times in a row







.


----------



## MR-e

Great build ruffbro









I'll take post #99,999, maybe the following user bless this thread with the 6 digit number.

obligatory water cooling pic


----------



## Radmanhs




----------



## VSG

100k done, back to business


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*


That is slack. I expect you to edit in a suitable pic shortly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 100k


+1


----------



## Radmanhs

I wi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is slack. I expect you to edit in a suitable pic shortly.
Click to expand...

I will , I'm parting my next build at the moment, so I will join the club soon


----------



## Radmanhs

Now that I made everyone anggry that I stole the 100k post, guess this is the best time to start asking questions for my next system.

What are the best low noise rads available? I've always thought they were the alphacool ones, since their fin density is really low, but that was a while ago.

I know pastel has a color changing problem, does their blueberry have the same problem?


----------



## Dragonsyph

HI GUYS, I'm gonna be doing white pastel coolant and I was wondering what you guys thoughts on the color of fittings I should get. What color fittings would look good with white pastel coolant?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> MMRS res......worst threading I have ever seen and no return feed tube to get it below the waterline,much fail here.
> 
> Lovely to look at tho.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You may have just gotten a bad part, I had no problems threading any of the fittings with mine. I know that @BoxGods had talked about adding a part that would allow you to return just above the pump, but I'm not seeing it at ppcs right now and I'm not sure if he released that part yet. You could also run a multi-sectioned res and run the return line to a lower section.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is slack. I expect you to edit in a suitable pic shortly.
Click to expand...

Fixed it, just for you


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> You could also run a multi-sectioned res and run the return line to a lower section.


My reservoir in the Liquorice Allsorts build is like that (return in mid section).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Fixed it, just for you


Funny ... but it looks like it might be air cooled.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Fixed it, just for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny ... but it looks like it might be air cooled.
Click to expand...

You're so needy, so I changed it again. Don't expect anything more. I had to go through the effort of opening MS Paint to make this.


----------



## ruffhi

I actually liked the 100 000 in balloons. But the current one is better


----------



## jleslie246

So what is a good case in the $150 - $200 price range for water cooling. Right now I am using a Switch 810 with 2 rads ( 3x140 & 2x120). See my profile for more details on current setup. I just want a more updated look. Dust filter is a must for me. Also windowed side.

Planning on moving into this new case once the 1080ti releases. Let me know.


----------



## DarthBaggins

CoolerMaster MasterCase Maker 5 (with the Tempered Glass side panel)


----------



## jleslie246

Thanks for the quick reply. I like that case too. Ill search around for water cooled builds. Id like to do 2 loops and two larger rads if there is room.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*


I wonder how many folks hung around to get that 100k post in.......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> You may have just gotten a bad part, I had no problems threading any of the fittings with mine. I know that @BoxGods had talked about adding a part that would allow you to return just above the pump, but I'm not seeing it at ppcs right now and I'm not sure if he released that part yet. You could also run a multi-sectioned res and run the return line to a lower section.


Shouldn't be a separate part,its a fundamental part for top return res. The res I got should just work,you cant add a bottom feed to the D5 top so there should be provision made for top return use.
The threading is something that others have had issue with,not really an issue for me,i just retap but the average will struggle.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wonder how many folks hung around to get that 100k post in.......
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> You may have just gotten a bad part, I had no problems threading any of the fittings with mine. I know that @BoxGods had talked about adding a part that would allow you to return just above the pump, but I'm not seeing it at ppcs right now and I'm not sure if he released that part yet. You could also run a multi-sectioned res and run the return line to a lower section.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Shouldn't be a separate part,its a fundamental part for top return res. The res I got should just work,you cant add a bottom feed to the D5 top so there should be provision made for top return use.
> The threading is something that others have had issue with,not really an issue for me,i just retap but the average will struggle.
Click to expand...

I went back and found the post I was thinking of but I'm a bit confused now by what you're saying. Were you talking about one of these straw things or something like this, with a mating kit between the pump top and a coupler?


----------



## HaPPyCaMPer75

Work in progress


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I went back and found the post I was thinking of but I'm a bit confused now by what you're saying. Were you talking about one of these straw things or something like this, with a mating kit between the pump top and a coupler?


Those 'straw things' are return feed tubes,it brings the return feed below the waterline,a fundamental requirement for top feed res. Unless you want the sound of a flushing urinal next you or constant bleeding issues....or fluid just dropping out of the tube above every time you switch off......


----------



## ADmodz

ADmodz BIOHAZARD
COMPONENTS:-
Case:-Antec 1200 v3 case, carbon fibre wrapped and lined inside with gloss black acrylic.
PSU:- Corsair AX1200i
Motherboard:-Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 5
CPU:-Intel core i7-6700k @4.6GHz
Memory:-32 Gig Corsair Vengeance 3000 MHz
GPU: - Asus Strix GTX980 TI
SSD: - 2 x 480 GB Kingston Hyper x in Raid 0
2 x 1TB Samsung Evo Pro
HARD DRIVES: - 3 x 4TB WD Red
WATERCOOLING:-
CPU Block: - EK Supremacy Evo (nickel/plexi)
GPU Block:-EK FC980 GTX980 TI Strix with Backplate.
Radiators: - 1 x 240mm Alphacool NexXxos XT45
1 X 120mm Alphacool NexXxos XT45
RES/PUMP: - XSPC D5 170 Photon Res combo.
Tubing: - EK HDC 12/16 PETG
Fittings: - Barrow anodised red compression fittings.
Fans: - 5 x Thermaltake Riing 120mm
1 x 230mm Antec top fan with LED changed to red
Temp Sensor: - XSPC temperature sensor V2 with G1/4 "plug sensor
Fan Controller: - Lamptron FC5 V2
Cables/ Lighting/Bracket :-
Psu shroud:- ADmodz
Cables: - AX 1200i cable set made by Shakmods.
LED:-Addon Customs 40cm LED strips.
GPU Support Bracket: - Coldzero.
Operating System: - Windows 10 Pro.


----------



## HaPPyCaMPer75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADmodz*
> 
> ADmodz BIOHAZARD
> COMPONENTS:-
> Case:-Antec 1200 v3 case, carbon fibre wrapped and lined inside with gloss black acrylic.
> PSU:- Corsair AX1200i
> Motherboard:-Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 5
> CPU:-Intel core i7-6700k @4.6GHz
> Memory:-32 Gig Corsair Vengeance 3000 MHz
> GPU: - Asus Strix GTX980 TI
> SSD: - 2 x 480 GB Kingston Hyper x in Raid 0
> 2 x 1TB Samsung Evo Pro
> HARD DRIVES: - 3 x 4TB WD Red
> WATERCOOLING:-
> CPU Block: - EK Supremacy Evo (nickel/plexi)
> GPU Block:-EK FC980 GTX980 TI Strix with Backplate.
> Radiators: - 1 x 240mm Alphacool NexXxos XT45
> 1 X 120mm Alphacool NexXxos XT45
> RES/PUMP: - XSPC D5 170 Photon Res combo.
> Tubing: - EK HDC 12/16 PETG
> Fittings: - Barrow anodised red compression fittings.
> Fans: - 5 x Thermaltake Riing 120mm
> 1 x 230mm Antec top fan with LED changed to red
> Temp Sensor: - XSPC temperature sensor V2 with G1/4 "plug sensor
> Fan Controller: - Lamptron FC5 V2
> Cables/ Lighting/Bracket :-
> Psu shroud:- ADmodz
> Cables: - AX 1200i cable set made by Shakmods.
> LED:-Addon Customs 40cm LED strips.
> GPU Support Bracket: - Coldzero.
> Operating System: - Windows 10 Pro.


What are your temps like with that rad setup? Your fans have to work hard at all?


----------



## ADmodz

Hi dude.
The CPU is clocked at 4.6ghz.
Idle temps are 20-21c
On benching the CPU hts about 30-35c
The gpu has never gone over 37c on full load.
The 3 intake fans are on 950rpm and rear rad fan is on 1000rpm,exhaust above it is on 900rpm.
I control all the fans from the fan controller,so I can ramp them up if needed.


----------



## HaPPyCaMPer75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADmodz*
> 
> Hi dude.
> The CPU is clocked at 4.6ghz.
> Idle temps are 20-21c
> On benching the CPU hts about 30-35c
> The gpu has never gone over 37c on full load.
> The 3 intake fans are on 950rpm and rear rad fan is on 1000rpm,exhaust above it is on 900rpm.
> I control all the fans from the fan controller,so I can ramp them up if needed.


Sweet, was curious cause I'm in middle of build, have a 480 push pull. Right now it's just cpu and Mobo water blocked (got the asus formula so it came Mobo blocked otherwise I wouldn't have)
I know that 480 is plenty for just that but I plan to waterblock a gpu just waiting for 1080ti. If your setup is enough and quite too then mine should be too lol


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I like that case too. Ill search around for water cooled builds. Id like to do 2 loops and two larger rads if there is room.


Oh there's room...


----------



## ADmodz

I've only got a 240 in the front,so I added the 120 between the gpu and CPU,it makes a good difference in temps.
It runs nice and quiet,and does everything I need it to do.
No news on the grapevine yet on 1080ti.


----------



## HaPPyCaMPer75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADmodz*
> 
> I've only got a 240 in the front,so I added the 120 between the gpu and CPU,it makes a good difference in temps.
> It runs nice and quiet,and does everything I need it to do.
> No news on the grapevine yet on 1080ti.


Yah need that 1080ti to come out lol. Have a 980ti which was more thank enough before I upgraded monitor. Now I'm playing at 3440x1440 and I'm one of those that desires the 100fps on everything lol

Thanks for the response! Makes me feel more confident I can still keep it silent when I put a gpu on the loop


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I like that case too. Ill search around for water cooled builds. Id like to do 2 loops and two larger rads if there is room.


There is also the Define S case. Have one myself, just need to get around to building in it.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Now that I made everyone anggry that I stole the 100k post, guess this is the best time to start asking questions for my next system.
> 
> What are the best low noise rads available? I've always thought they were the alphacool ones, since their fin density is really low, but that was a while ago.
> 
> I know pastel has a color changing problem, does their blueberry have the same problem?


I'm super happy with my two Black Ice Nemesis 280gts rads from HardwareLabs. I use enermax tb silent fans in push/pull. Great cooling for my overclocks and I can't hear it when even at full load.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> I'm super happy with my two Black Ice Nemesis 280gts rads from HardwareLabs. I use enermax tb silent fans in push/pull. Great cooling for my overclocks and I can't hear it when even at full load.


I've been usung GTS 480 with Enermax Cluster Advance on it in push pull, very good radiator, at only 27mm thich it does the job extremely good. Replaced it with MoRa3


----------



## dmfree88

Whoa.. Anyone seen this yet:

http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooler/masterliquid-maker-92/

Interested to see what kind of TDP limit it reaches.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Whoa.. Anyone seen this yet:
> 
> http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooler/masterliquid-maker-92/
> 
> Interested to see what kind of TDP limit it reaches.


Nice it's got ducts too, if you buy one do share results


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Whoa.. Anyone seen this yet:
> 
> http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooler/masterliquid-maker-92/
> 
> Interested to see what kind of TDP limit it reaches.


It was just released, I don't think there has been any official reviews yet.


----------



## VSG

It's not even released yet, just announced. Aug 30 is what I heard.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's not even released yet, just announced. Aug 30 is what I heard.


And we live in a NDA world so no reviews until then, sigh...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Whoa.. Anyone seen this yet:
> 
> http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooler/masterliquid-maker-92/
> 
> Interested to see what kind of TDP limit it reaches.


100w.

If you are lucky.

/jk


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 100w.
> 
> If you are lucky.
> 
> /jk


92mm single radiator Oo.
should be enough for cooling VRM...

what a fail


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> 92mm single radiator Oo.
> should be enough for cooling VRM...
> 
> what a fail


Its not a fail,a 92mm fan isnt too bad,its all about expectation....

This will be on par with a semi decent air cooler,if thats what works for you. A concept born from Asetek's BS patents sadly.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not a fail,a 92mm fan isnt too bad,its all about expectation....
> 
> This will be on par with a semi decent air cooler,if thats what works for you. A concept born from Asetek's BS patents sadly.


The problem I see with this CLC is that its going up against the big vertical 140mm tower coolers and the 120/140mm horizontal coolers. And I doubt it'll be able to out perform any of those while most likely being more expensive.

Its neat that you can flip it between vertical and horizontal, but I don't see much real world value in that.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The problem I see with this CLC is that its going up against the big vertical 140mm tower coolers and the 120/140mm horizontal coolers. And I doubt it'll be able to out perform any of those while most likely being more expensive.
> 
> Its neat that you can flip it between vertical and horizontal, but I don't see much real world value in that.


agree.
no way it will be better than any 120mm Corsair etc AIO. A bit of a miss idea imo. Looks different tho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not a fail,a 92mm fan isnt too bad,its all about expectation....
> 
> This will be on par with a semi decent air cooler,if thats what works for you. A concept born from Asetek's BS patents sadly.


2x MoRa 360 work for me just enough...I like my water temps only slightly higher than ambient.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I went back and found the post I was thinking of but I'm a bit confused now by what you're saying. Were you talking about one of these straw things or something like this, with a mating kit between the pump top and a coupler?
> 
> 
> 
> Those 'straw things' are return feed tubes,it brings the return feed below the waterline,a fundamental requirement for top feed res. Unless you want the sound of a flushing urinal next you or constant bleeding issues....or fluid just dropping out of the tube above every time you switch off......
Click to expand...

Well it looks like BP has an option for you then.







I'm pretty sure the return feed tubes are on BG's to do list, but they are probably lower priority since there are other options available and not everybody will need it. You can pretty much make anything work with this res system.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

You Know... I was just thinking... the new Apartment has More space... About 300 sq ft more space... which means.... Another Desk.... Which Means the S3 Build











Oh This could get interesting









TCO


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Know... I was just thinking... the new Apartment has More space... About 300 sq ft more space... which means.... Another Desk.... Which Means the S3 Build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh This could get interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Something really cool about this post, and that photo.

After what you've been through, that's a great plan, and since you'll have the room.........

Rep+


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Know... I was just thinking... the new Apartment has More space... About 300 sq ft more space... which means.... Another Desk.... Which Means the S3 Build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh This could get interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Wish I could find another 300 sq ft of space . . . . .







I'm almost to where I need to put up a tent in the back yard just to have a place to sleep . . and my white - black two tone S5 should be here later next month . . . .


----------



## DrFreeman35

At least you're getting your S5, I got told no more orders until end of the year. That's a crazy amount of work u got there Diva..... Or play, depends the way you look at it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Know... I was just thinking... the new Apartment has More space... About 300 sq ft more space... which means.... Another Desk.... Which Means the S3 Build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh This could get interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Like the look of that case, is that cardboard or wood?


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> At least you're getting your S5, I got told no more orders until end of the year. That's a crazy amount of work u got there Diva..... Or play, depends the way you look at it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Know... I was just thinking... the new Apartment has More space... About 300 sq ft more space... which means.... Another Desk.... Which Means the S3 Build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh This could get interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Like the look of that case, is that cardboard or wood?
Click to expand...

Its a protective layer over the acrylic panel


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> At least you're getting your S5, I got told no more orders until end of the year. That's a crazy amount of work u got there Diva..... Or play, depends the way you look at it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Know... I was just thinking... the new Apartment has More space... About 300 sq ft more space... which means.... Another Desk.... Which Means the S3 Build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh This could get interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Like the look of that case, is that cardboard or wood?
Click to expand...

That's the protective paper that comes on the acrylic windows so they don't get scratched

Ninja'd by mere seconds . .


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Its a protective layer over the acrylic panel


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's the protective paper that comes on the acrylic windows so they don't get scratched
> 
> Ninja'd by mere seconds . .


LoL, too funny. Thanks for the info


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I have looking forward to doing dual loops in that case since I ordered it at the EOL call from Caselabs for the S3s. I am pretty sure I can do it justice!

TCO


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Know... I was just thinking... the new Apartment has More space... About 300 sq ft more space... which means.... Another Desk.... Which Means the S3 Build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh This could get interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I agree with DerComissar, something magical with this photo!

Either you are a professional or just have some interesting woods around you









GREAT photo!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

EK tomorrow!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I agree with DerComissar, something magical with this photo!
> 
> Either you are a professional or just have some interesting woods around you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GREAT photo!!!


I actually took the photo at the old apartments (That were flooded)

What you are looking at is the river beyond the trees there that flooded everything around us.

Coincidence?

TCO


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I agree with DerComissar, something magical with this photo!
> 
> Either you are a professional or just have some interesting woods around you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GREAT photo!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually took the photo at the old apartments (That were flooded)
> 
> What you are looking at is the river beyond the trees there that flooded everything around us.
> 
> Coincidence?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

To me, the significance of the terrible flooding you had in Maurice, then the positive spin you posted about your new place, and doing the S3 build, all came together in that photo.

And now, time to move on.
On with the show, as the saying goes!


----------



## Benjiw

Was cleaning one of my EK blocks as it looked tarnished fro a block that's only a few months old while running straight deionised water.




Anyone seen anything like this before?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wish I could find another 300 sq ft of space . . . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm almost to where I need to put up a tent in the back yard just to have a place to sleep . . and my white - black two tone S5 should be here later next month . . . .


Darn, and here I thought I had a bad habit of hoarding hardware.







If I had my own place it probably look like that too. With added art stuff and power tools.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Was cleaning one of my EK blocks as it looked tarnished fro a block that's only a few months old while running straight deionised water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone seen anything like this before?


No biocide or anti corro?

Why do people recommend that nonsense.....


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No biocide or anti corro?
> 
> Why do people recommend that nonsense.....


What do you use? And have I messed up listening to the majority again?

Also what is it lime scale build up or can I polish it out? Going to put it back together and use it if I can clean it off with polish etc then I'll make sure I get some anti corrosion fluid next time I get some fluid.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> What do you use? And have I messed up listening to the majority again?
> 
> Also what is it lime scale build up or can I polish it out? Going to put it back together and use it if I can clean it off with polish etc then I'll make sure I get some anti corrosion fluid next time I get some fluid.


Its probably biological.

I use nuke and an add in anti corro for water or a premix. Sentinel x series inhibitors are very good.


----------



## Radmanhs

Are there any discounts going on fpr PPS, FrozenCPU, or anything else at the moment?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its probably biological.
> 
> I use nuke and an add in anti corro for water or a premix. Sentinel x series inhibitors are very good.


Will look them up thank you, what about the tarnish? I've given it a really good scrub but I think it might be a polish job?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Are there any discounts going on fpr PPS, FrozenCPU, or anything else at the moment?


i would recommend not buying from frozen, they screwed several over, although people say they are now working properly i wouldnt risk my money there


----------



## prznar1

Current version with different mobo.


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Are there any discounts going on fpr PPS, FrozenCPU, or anything else at the moment?


PPCS


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> To me, the significance of the terrible flooding you had in Maurice, then the positive spin you posted about your new place, and doing the S3 build, all came together in that photo.
> 
> And now, time to move on.
> On with the show, as the saying goes!


Thanks DerCom. Hung all the pictures in the new pad yesterday. That was the final touches. Should be able to have some time to relax now!

TCO


----------



## emsj86

So I am looking to update and upgrade my build. I'm unsure if I want to stick with 12mm tuning or go to 16mm. My thoughts are with a bigger case 16mm the more I see it looks better. I can't make my mind up so I need thoughts maybe advise on what you guys think would work. Looking to change fluid to clear as well.


----------



## DeathStroke50

Quick little update, any tips?


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Stuff
> 
> 
> 
> PPCS


Funny that says 2015, probably just the same template from last year.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I am looking to update and upgrade my build. I'm unsure if I want to stick with 12mm tuning or go to 16mm. My thoughts are with a bigger case 16mm the more I see it looks better. I can't make my mind up so I need thoughts maybe advise on what you guys think would work. Looking to change fluid to clear as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would definitely go 16mm tubing. Will never go 12mm now that I've worked with 16mm. Looks great in smaller and bigger cases.
I can see where some may hesitate if they already have 12mm fittings... it does get expensive buying a whole new set just for looks!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I disagree. 12mm All day.

TCO


----------



## Kyouki

So I have only used 12mm since I am on my first hardline build. When the 12mm tubes came in the mail and I opened them I was like..... this is so small, but once I worked with them and installed them into the case I am really happy with the look. They are noticeable but don't take away from the rest of the build. One day I might try a bigger tube but till then 12mm it is!


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Funny that says 2015, probably just the same template from last year.


That is funny as I hadn't even noticed that typo. I used the 8.5% off a couple days ago and it worked.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Had fun building in a Core X5 last week at work. Pretty solid case for watercooling that isn't too hard on the wallet.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Found a picture of my first Computer Build back in 2014.

"WaterCooled"





TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Hahaha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Hahaha


I remember installing that H100i in the 410 and having a hard time with it. Pretty sure the rad was 25mm Thick.

What a trip.

TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Found a picture of my first Computer Build back in 2014.
> 
> "WaterCooled"
> 
> TCO


oh man... this gives me so much hope for my build future









Thanks for sharing man


----------



## Mega Man

Mine was a tt kit. I still have the rad. I lol so hard now but I remember I used to think it was amazing


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I remember installing that H100i in the 410 and having a hard time with it. Pretty sure the rad was 25mm Thick.
> 
> What a trip.
> 
> TCO


I remember my first time with a switch 220 and I was more worried about it leaking than I was when I did my full custom loop. Funny how before you water cool you read some much horror stories when it really isn't all that hard


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> oh man... this gives me so much hope for my build future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing man


No Problem. We all had to start somewhere. It's getting over what EMSJ86 Said.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Mine was a tt kit. I still have the rad. I lol so hard now but I remember I used to think it was amazing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I remember my first time with a switch 220 and I was more worried about it leaking than I was when I did my full custom loop. Funny how before you water cool you read some much horror stories when it really isn't all that hard


Not that its hard, you have to concentrate. Not just plug this in here and flip it on. You really have to sit down plan, configure, test, re test, then cross your fingers and make sure the towels/napkins aren't wet.










TCO


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No Problem. We all had to start somewhere. It's getting over what EMSJ86 Said.
> 
> Not that its hard, you have to concentrate. Not just plug this in here and flip it on. You really have to sit down plan, configure, test, re test, then cross your fingers and make sure the towels/napkins aren't wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


What?







This time i went yolo. just plugged everything, filled the loop and fired the system









However i see that after 1h of flushing new rad i still got some bits of dark things inside of tubing :S ONE HOUR. well, if my tubing will become orange, ill go for hard tubing. Now this will be tricky to do.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> What?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time i went yolo. *just plugged everything, filled the loop and fired the system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> However i see that after 1h of flushing new rad i still got some bits of dark things inside of tubing :S ONE HOUR. well, if my tubing will become orange*, ill go for hard tubing.* Now this will be tricky to do.


I suppose you can "Yolo" when using soft tubing, as it is as close to foolproof a custom loop can get









TCO


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I suppose you can "Yolo" when using soft tubing, as it is as close to foolproof a custom loop can get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


True







but soft tubing can slip from barbs


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I suppose you can "Yolo" when using soft tubing, as it is as close to foolproof a custom loop can get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


To be fair you can get an air tester from Aqua computers now that makes leak testing fool proof, I wonder if our man B Neg had something to do with it seeing as he's been pressure testing his loops with air for a good while now to avoid the testing, retesting and keeping fingers crossed.









http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3415


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> True
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but soft tubing can slip from barbs


Problems with Soft Tubing

1. Tube can Slip from Barb if fitting is neglected and not tightened correctly before completing loop.
2. Done










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> To be fair you can get an air tester from Aqua computers now that makes leak testing fool proof, I wonder if our man B Neg had something to do with it seeing as he's been pressure testing his loops with air for a good while now to avoid the testing, retesting and keeping fingers crossed.


Air testing, Air TESTING???

Never. Not this guy, I still like to live on the edge a little









TCO


----------



## Mega Man

haha i cant find the exact model but it was a big water unit i think. but my fan airflow ran front to back, and had 2 80mm fans ! ( all the ones i can find were top to bottom or top to back ?


----------



## fa5terba11

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement IHS for a 3570K? I delidded mine and can't seem to find it. I may have lost it in the move. I'm going to a skylake 6500k and will be using the 3570K for my son's build. I won't be doing direct die cooling however and need the IHS.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> To me, the significance of the terrible flooding you had in Maurice, then the positive spin you posted about your new place, and doing the S3 build, all came together in that photo.
> 
> And now, time to move on.
> On with the show, as the saying goes!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks DerCom. Hung all the pictures in the new pad yesterday. That was the final touches. Should be able to have some time to relax now!
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Good to hear that.









Relax, and then on with the S3!

(meanwhile, it's time for me to stop relaxing, and get my S8 rebuild finished, lol.)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Good to hear that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Relax, and then on with the S3!
> 
> (meanwhile, it's time for me to stop relaxing, and get my S8 rebuild finished, lol.)


The woman wants me to part with one of my cabinets. I could sell for a couple bucks, but only if it is to aquire a desk for the S3 build. I need the upper hand here.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> To be fair you can get an air tester from Aqua computers now that makes leak testing fool proof, *I wonder if our man B Neg had something to do with it* seeing as he's been pressure testing his loops with air for a good while now to avoid the testing, retesting and keeping fingers crossed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3415


Nope and Shoggy point blank said he never checked that thread nor used any of its info......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Why should I thank you? We have not copied anything from you. If you would not exist, Dr. Drop would still do - exactly the same way as it is at the same time.
> 
> The even more funny thing here is that in another forum also someone claimed we have copied an idea from him. Maybe I should get you in touch with him so you can fight out who was first because I think you copied him - joking of course, but I guess you understand what I am up to. Luckily a few thousand years ago someone invented the wheel, otherwise we would not have it till today


Im not bothered tho,its a standard practice for plumbers and HVAC engineers to check fresh pipe runs,so its not my idea,I just brought it over for our use.


----------



## Mega Man

I for one think pressure testing is overrated. I like vacuum testing!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I for one think pressure testing is overrated. *I like vacuum testing!*


So do I but our fittings are not rated for vacuum. Vacuum fittings are rated -/+. Creating a vacuum tester is also not cheap.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I for one think pressure testing is overrated. I like vacuum testing!


I like to spray soapy water to find the air leak


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I like to spray soapy water to find the air leak


I've never needed soapy water to find a leak when air testing. I can't believe I ever tested any other way to be honest... it's archaic and reckless... Words I don't associate with my PC


----------



## eucalyptus

I wonder, are these bottles ready to use? Are the necessary things already premixed (anti-corrosion and the other thing which I don't know the word for in English) ?

http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/kylvaetksa/faerdigmixad/8004/alphacool-ultra-pure-water-kanister-5000ml

Just add Mayhem DYEs and ready to go?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I wonder, are these bottles ready to use? Are the necessary things already premixed (anti-corrosion and the other thing which I don't know the word for in English) ?
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/kylvaetksa/faerdigmixad/8004/alphacool-ultra-pure-water-kanister-5000ml
> 
> Just add Mayhem DYEs and ready to go?


I believe that is straight, 100% water with nothing at all mixed in


----------



## prznar1

30€ for water? I bought demineralised 5liter canister for 2.5€


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> 30€ for water? I bought demineralised 5liter canister for 2.5€


Well, it's not that cheap in Sweden







Earlier bought 4 Litres for 5 Euro here in Sweden, "battery water made for car batteries".

Although, I already have a Alphacool 5 Litre can and wonder if that's just normal water or ready to use









Is this maybe what I need?








https://mayhems.co.uk/algaecides/biocide-extreme-10ml/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its with a heavy heart I would like to inform everybody that Namron,the guy that did the man on the street guide to the Aquaero, has sadly passed away after an extensive fight with cancer.
A genuinely nice guy,the hobby will miss him.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its with a heavy heart I would like to inform everybody that Namron,the guy that did the man on the street guide to the Aquaero, has sadly passed away after an extensive fight with cancer.
> A genuinely nice guy,the hobby will miss him.


Cancer, the worst. I'm sorry for your loss and thoughts for his family.

RIP Namron


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I suppose you can "Yolo" when using soft tubing, as it is as close to foolproof a custom loop can get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Then I am a bit nut in that department. I been straight yoloing since my first build that used soft tube. Even yolo this hard tube.







Then again I'm wacky with barbs since I will triple check or more the barbs being tight.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nope and Shoggy point blank said he never checked that thread nor used any of its info......
> Im not bothered tho,its a standard practice for plumbers and HVAC engineers to check fresh pipe runs,so its not my idea,I just brought it over for our use.


Oh wow, really... Well that's just in poor taste that reply to you.

You're the only one I've seen use a pressure test setup, sure you might not have been the first but you pretty much pushed it to loads of people for the greater good, Shoggy didn't see it? Sure...


----------



## emsj86

@B NEGATIVE I forget so are you a plumber or HVAC/R. I ask because I've been working in super market rack systems and hvac for the last 10 years. Off topic but wanted to see if you work on any of the new propane or co2 transcritical units. Also surprised to not see you do more projects with using co2 or a compressor to cool hardware


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Well, it's not that cheap in Sweden
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Earlier bought 4 Litres for 5 Euro here in Sweden, "battery water made for car batteries".
> 
> Although, I already have a Alphacool 5 Litre can and wonder if that's just normal water or ready to use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this maybe what I need?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://mayhems.co.uk/algaecides/biocide-extreme-10ml/


Yea, im running such setup. Demineralised water + biocide. Corrosion should not be issue since im not mixing metals.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE I forget so are you a plumber or HVAC/R. I ask because I've been working in super market rack systems and hvac for the last 10 years. Off topic but wanted to see if you work on any of the new propane or co2 transcritical units. Also surprised to not see you do more projects with using co2 or a compressor to cool hardware


Something tells me he won't be doing any of that for a while, at least for work. He's not a plumber/HVAC guy by trade anymore


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Hey guys, a little help with my build if you don't mind. I'm to the point where I'm about to complete the loop and test it, but I'm having an issue using my PS with the jumper cable. As in it won't turn on with the jumper plugged in. I made this jumper with spare parts and tested it on another PS and it works fine. However this PS, EVGA G1 1000, won't turn on with the jumper installed but works fine plugged into the MB. Any suggestions?


----------



## Benjiw

Urgh, some of my acrylic tube has started to show little cracks in it on a straight run, not sure if I made it weak tightening the collar on with the wrench that came with the Monsoon hardline fittings. Take it I should remove it and use some soft tubing for the time being?


----------



## Radmanhs

How are alphacool rads? I know Hardwarelabs and EK are typically the go-to, but I feel like I could utilize the multiport in their nexxos rads. All I know for sure is they have low fpi and need to be cleaned out VERY well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Something tells me he won't be doing any of that for a while, at least for work. He's not a plumber/HVAC guy by trade anymore


XD

Yup,not doing that anymore....

I will tell you guys more later.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*


I've been using Alphacool rads for a few years without issue. Just flush the hell out of them.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*


Since when EK rads are good? In most reviews i saw them as one of worst and most expensive.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far my experience has been Swiftech being some of the cleanest rads I've used, especially at their low price point. But lately HL/XSPC/EK are my rads of choice mainly due to their looks and function, so far HL & XSPC have to be some of the better performing rads. Alphacool rads are definitely the dirtiest I've seen (have a pair of repaired,by me, 560's) but if you flush properly you'll be ok.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> XD
> 
> Yup,not doing that anymore....
> 
> I will tell you guys more later.


Lucky man wish k could say the same 100 hour weeks are taking a toll


----------



## DarthBaggins

60-70hr work weeks were taking their toll on me in the Automotive Tech arena, which is why I'm working w/ MicroCenter now and working on going back to get my Associates Degree in Computer Science.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So far my experience has been Swiftech being some of the cleanest rads I've used, especially at their low price point. But lately HL/XSPC/EK are my rads of choice mainly due to their looks and function, so far HL & XSPC have to be some of the better performing rads. Alphacool rads are definitely the dirtiest I've seen (have a pair of repaired,by me, 560's) but if you flush properly you'll be ok.


I also have a pair of XT45 560's. I flushed them 4-5 times with new boiled tap water and then finished with distilled water.

I filled them, plugged them with fittings. Shook them really hard and let the water be in there for a few minutes. First flush some big parts came out, second and the rest of the flush-ish just came a few small parts.

Although, there could probably still be dirt left in there...

*** haven't used them yet so can't tell if there are more to come or if my flush:es did succé







will paint them white









I am not an expert.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I also have a pair of XT45 560's. I flushed them 4-5 times with new boiled tap water and then finished with distilled water.
> 
> I filled them, plugged them with fittings. Shook them really hard and let the water be in there for a few minutes. First flush some big parts came out, second and the rest of the flush-ish just came a few small parts.
> 
> Although, there could probably still be dirt left in there...
> 
> *** haven't used them yet so can't tell if there are more to come or if my flush:es did succé
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will paint them white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not an expert.


I used a similar technique with my three 560's and after they were clean with no dirt/chunks/ flux crap.


----------



## fakeblood

My first scratch build that Ive been working on. No buildlog as yet.
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/20160824_164337_zpsrmp5jnq2.jpg.html


----------



## Mega Man

Amazing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> XD
> 
> Yup,not doing that anymore....
> 
> I will tell you guys more later.
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky man wish k could say the same 100 hour weeks are taking a toll
Click to expand...

Heh. I know the feeling, do you work for source or epic (or Kore or w.E. they changed their name to this week)

Anywho if you are in Colorado area or want to move here let me know where I work we have tons of ot but you don't have to work it (40s are ok)

We need guys and I love it here

I did my 80 hour weeks before. It hurts after a while.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 60-70hr work weeks were taking their toll on me in the Automotive Tech arena, which is why I'm working w/ MicroCenter now and working on going back to get my Associates Degree in Computer Science.


I feel you.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIRobotics*
> 
> First water-cooled build; already addicted and have a new build in progress. Specs at bottom; let me know what you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Important hardware
> Processor: Intel Core i7-5960X
> Motherboard: MSI X99A GodLike Gaming Carbon
> PSU: CORSAIR AX1500i
> SSD1: SAMSUNG 950 PRO M.2 512GB PCI-Express 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive
> SSD2: SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 512GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive
> SSD3: SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 512GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive
> RAM: CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 64GB (8 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2800 (PC4 22400)
> GPU: 2x SLI MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti GAMING 6G
> 
> Case
> InWin 909 Silver ***VERY MODIFIED*
> Lighting: Mixture of cold cathode/RGB LEDs (PC controlled)
> Cables: CaseMod AXi set
> 
> Custom Cooling
> Motherboard WB: Bitspower MSI X99A GODLIKE GAMING Nickel Plated Full-Covered-Block (Clear)
> GPU WB: 2x Bitspower VG-NGTX980TIMG Acrylic (Clear)
> RAM WB: Bitspower RAM Module Set
> Rear Radiator: EKWB 360MM XE
> Front Radiator: EKWB 280MM CE
> Fans Rear/Mid: 4x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000RPM PWM fans
> Fans Front/bottom: 4x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 3000RPM PWM fans
> Pump: Swiftech D5 PWM with Bitspower mod top
> Resevoir: FrozenQ dual bay helix (leaked on delivery FYI **after I assembled the whole thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Fittings: Lots of Bitspower black sparkle enhanced multi-link
> Tubing: Labratory grade 12mm chrome plated copper tube


That looks so awesome


----------



## Gabrielzm

I am sad to hear about Norman. He was a good fellow and will be missed.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Something really cool about this post, and that photo.
> 
> After what you've been through, that's a great plan, and since you'll have the room.........
> 
> Rep+


Anything to take your mind off all the bad news in La. Did you salvage that from the flood or did it just come in? I'm still working on my TH10A build. Next month will officially be the one year anniversary of starting it, if placing the order with CaseLabs counts.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would recommend not buying from frozen, they screwed several over, although people say they are now working properly i wouldnt risk my money there


I don't think a lot of people on this thread were around for that fiasco.


----------



## rolldog

I was running the same in my loop, but leak testing is as far as I got before I found out all my rads were leaking. After tearing everything apart and starting from scratch again, but with different rads, the acrylic inside of my GPU waterblocks have hazed up. I've cleaned them out twice, but the haze keeps coming back. I'm not sure if I should polish them or leave them be, since they look clear when water is in them. Should I polish the inside of my acrylic GPU waterblocks or leave them be and see how they look once I'm back to leak testing? I bought the reverse chassis for my CaseLabs case so you can see the acrylic tops through the window. I just want it to look clean, but I'm not sure if I should waste more time by polishing the acrylic or once the loops are filled you won't be able to tell how hazy thee acrylic is.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Urgh, some of my acrylic tube has started to show little cracks in it on a straight run, not sure if I made it weak tightening the collar on with the wrench that came with the Monsoon hardline fittings. Take it I should remove it and use some soft tubing for the time being?


Are those Monsoon compression fittings hooked up to acrylic tubing?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Lucky man wish k could say the same 100 hour weeks are taking a toll


Lets just say I'm moving to Slovenia to work now.....


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Since when EK rads are good? In most reviews i saw them as one of worst and most expensive.


EK's radiators are near the top of the comparisons in ExtremeRig's AND ThermalBench's Radiator results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lets just say I'm moving to Slovenia to work now.....


Oh sweet, he's becoming a modding and water cooling mob boss!


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> EK's radiators are near the top of the comparisons in ExtremeRig's AND ThermalBench's Radiator results.
> Oh sweet, he's becoming a modding and water cooling mob boss!


I think the radiators need a good match with fans. EK seems to need higher RPM fans to perform. At least from what I've seen, especially the XE series. Vardars probably work really well. I'm going low speed ELoops, so I'll be using Nemesis GTX. Just my opinion of course.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Are those Monsoon compression fittings hooked up to acrylic tubing?


Yes, I'm guessing I've overtightened the monsoon fitting and the pressure is cracking the tubing a bit further up?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> My first scratch build that Ive been working on. No buildlog as yet.
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/20160824_164337_zpsrmp5jnq2.jpg.html


Looks like a pattern @[email protected] did for an SMA8

See If I can find it.

TCO

EDit; BOOM Got it

http://www.overclock.net/t/1543856/build-complete-neun-blanc-bitspower-caselabs-sma8-x99-5960x-klevv-ddr4-galax-980gtx-halloffame-sli-aquacomputer/0_20


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Amazing
> Heh. I know the feeling, do you work for source or epic (or Kore or w.E. they changed their name to this week)
> 
> Anywho if you are in Colorado area or want to move here let me know where I work we have tons of ot but you don't have to work it (40s are ok)
> 
> We need guys and I love it here
> 
> I live in Philadelphia. Handle the Philadelphia, New Jersey, Delaware area. The company is Remco. Mainly all rack systems for Walmart, target, etc (any big name grocery store or places like Walmart we do). Also of co2 systems popping up most run off novar, Emerson, or danfoss controls. Yea almost 10 years in wondering when I won't have to do all the crazy hours anymore


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lets just say I'm moving to Slovenia to work now.....


EK offered you a job have they? Very good sir, suits you sir!


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Lucky man wish k could say the same 100 hour weeks are taking a toll
> 
> 
> 
> Lets just say I'm moving to Slovenia to work now.....
Click to expand...

That's really cool, buddy. Congrats! Btw, you aren't the only one moving far for a job.







Guess I'll be trading the mountains in Colorado for mountains and the beach in California. I haven't said anything on FB because I don't want my current job to know yet, but you and I will probably be in touch more often now on the business side


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> I think the radiators need a good match with fans. EK seems to need higher RPM fans to perform. At least from what I've seen, especially the XE series. Vardars probably work really well. *I'm going low speed ELoops, so I'll be using Nemesis GTX.* Just my opinion of course.












High FPI Nemesis rads and low speed fans = Not ideal


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> High FPI Nemesis rads and low speed fans = Not ideal


Except the current Nemesis rads have thin fins (25 microns, 16 FPI) and tubes (1.2 mm diameter) so they are optimized for low speed/low airflow/low noise. Very ideal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> EK's radiators are near the top of the comparisons in ExtremeRig's AND ThermalBench's Radiator results.


Radiator. Singular. The Coolstream XE is very good once you get a decent amount of air through it, and the others are okay. Best to pair them with high performance radiator fans, which is what EK intends as well.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lets just say I'm moving to Slovenia to work now.....


Sweet! Employee discounts?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Except the current Nemesis rads have thin fins (25 microns, 16 FPI) and tubes (1.2 mm diameter) so they are optimized for low speed/low airflow/low noise. Very ideal.
> Radiator. Singular. The Coolstream XE is very good once you get a decent amount of air through it, and the others are okay. Best to pair them with high performance radiator fans, which is what EK intends as well.


I got a bad batch of Coolstream XE rads last year. I then head to put my build on hold for 6 months while I took care of some personal business, and when I finally finished my build, both of my 480s, which were mounted on the top of my case, we're leaking from the shroud along with a 360 mounted on the bottom. I didn't realize that I was supposed to keep the extenders that came with the rads in place. So, I'm not sure if the rads were faulty from the start or if I caused it by removing the extenders, but after removing all my fittings and installing the extenders, they still leaked from the shroud. My coolant was dripping from the fans mounted to the inside portion of the rads, and once I broke everything down, I could see plain as day my blue coolant running down the sides of my rads (I painted them all white). So, there was no way I could have returned them.

Now I have 2 x Black Ice SR2s (white edition) and an Alphacool 360 Monsta rad on the bottom. Since I'm still working on my build, I haven't had an opportunity to leak test them yet, but when I hooked them all up in series to run Mayhem's Blitz through them, everything seemed fine. They didn't even have much junk in them. I like these SR2s. They have so many ports on them it's rediculous.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yes, I'm guessing I've overtightened the monsoon fitting and the pressure is cracking the tubing a bit further up?


I may be wrong, but I don't think those fittings are meant to be used with acrylic tubing. All my fittings are Bitspower though, and at least they have specific fittings for hard line tubing and different fittings for soft tubing. I would assume Monsoon fittings would be the same because of how they're made. The regular compression fittings made for soft tubing will crack the acrylic, as you have seen. Check Monsoon's website and see if they have hard line compression fittings. It looks like you're using 10/12mm tubing, or 3/8 x 5/8 in imperial. I live in the US, but I've become accustomed to using the metric system for measuring after using metric components for so many years.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I may be wrong, but I don't think those fittings are meant to be used with acrylic tubing. All my fittings are Bitspower though, and at least they have specific fittings for hard line tubing and different fittings for soft tubing. I would assume Monsoon fittings would be the same because of how they're made. The regular compression fittings made for soft tubing will crack the acrylic, as you have seen. Check Monsoon's website and see if they have hard line compression fittings. It looks like you're using 10/12mm tubing, or 3/8 x 5/8 in imperial. I live in the US, but I've become accustomed to using the metric system for measuring after using metric components for so many years.


The collar you glue on to the end of the tube is acrylic so not sure, I don't want to use PETG tbh as I like acrylic and see no benefit with PETG for me.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> The collar you glue on to the end of the tube is acrylic so not sure, I don't want to use PETG tbh as I like acrylic and see no benefit with PETG for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> The collar you glue on to the end of the tube is acrylic so not sure, I don't want to use PETG tbh as I like acrylic and see no benefit with PETG for me.


Oh, so you bought the hard line lock collar conversions to convert the fittings to work with acrylic tubing? Sorry, I'm not too familiar with these. If you bought the lock collar conversions, like these

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-lock-collar-conversion-kit-1-2-od-13mm.html

and the tubing is still cracking, then you must be over tightening them. I think the wrench would be more helpful when using soft tubing, but if you're tightening them onto acrylic, I would hand tighten them. From what I can tell, these lock collar conversions come with acrylic weld, which looks like water but it binds the acrylic at the molecular level. So you don't ever have to worry about those things coming off. Of course, when converting the fittings to work with acrylic, don't use the inside piece made for soft tubing. Take a look at this, maybe it will be helpful. Sorry I couldn't help more, but I've never used these before.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DtU1MoA3S30s&ved=0ahUKEwjYrrborNrOAhUUUmMKHUFYAncQwqsBCDIwBA&usg=AFQjCNHc5YRLx9oldwWLKq6Tvf5BypbhUg&sig2=XUfMNr-BDGhq4oO973HTQw


----------



## LiquidHaus

has anyone dabbled with Phantek's 1080 block yet? I'm curious to see if it'd be possible to run a different manufacturer backplate on the blocks, as Phantek doesn't make any for their own.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Finally got my desk cleared.....


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Oh, so you bought the hard line lock collar conversions to convert the fittings to work with acrylic tubing? Sorry, I'm not too familiar with these. If you bought the lock collar conversions, like these
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-lock-collar-conversion-kit-1-2-od-13mm.html
> 
> and the tubing is still cracking, then you must be over tightening them. I think the wrench would be more helpful when using soft tubing, but if you're tightening them onto acrylic, I would hand tighten them. From what I can tell, these lock collar conversions come with acrylic weld, which looks like water but it binds the acrylic at the molecular level. So you don't ever have to worry about those things coming off. Of course, when converting the fittings to work with acrylic, don't use the inside piece made for soft tubing. Take a look at this, maybe it will be helpful. Sorry I couldn't help more, but I've never used these before.
> 
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DtU1MoA3S30s&ved=0ahUKEwjYrrborNrOAhUUUmMKHUFYAncQwqsBCDIwBA&usg=AFQjCNHc5YRLx9oldwWLKq6Tvf5BypbhUg&sig2=XUfMNr-BDGhq4oO973HTQw


Yep you glue them on and no I didn't convert I just got the hardlines when they where on offer years ago before I ever converted to hardline so I used them. They're a bit of hassle but tbh I feel very safe moving my pc around on the car etc with these.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lets just say I'm moving to Slovenia to work now.....


OMG, he sold his soul to EK!

Well, there are worse places to sell your soul I guess.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Behind in the times so asking the gurus for help..

Where can I go to find the best 240 radiators? I want to look at slim and not so slim options.. is a 140x2 the best option or is the 120x2 better?

Also I would prefer to have my fans on low rpm.

One more thing.. anyone know the best 5.25 bay res?









Thanks!


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Finally got my desk cleared.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I figured a modder like you would be using a custom built keyboard as well.

Back on topic:
I'm looking for quick disconnects for an external radbox, what can you guys recommend?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> I figured a modder like you would be using a custom built keyboard as well.
> 
> Back on topic:
> I'm looking for quick disconnects for an external radbox, what can you guys recommend?


The Alphacool's









They are the cheapest ones, but still the best!

An annoying thing with others are that they sell the "female" and the "male" separately and confuse the buyer, like me. But Alphacool sells them as "one" piece, no need to look for both ends


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Finally got my desk cleared.....


Might want to try a vertical taskbar on the ultrawide, much better use of screen estate.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> The Alphacool's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are the cheapest ones, but still the best!
> 
> An annoying thing with others are that they sell the "female" and the "male" separately and confuse the buyer, like me. But Alphacool sells them as "one" piece, no need to look for both ends


Thanks for the quick response, going to look into them.


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Where can I go to find the best 240 radiators? I want to look at slim and not so slim options.. is a 140x2 the best option or is the 120x2 better?
> 
> Also I would prefer to have my fans on low rpm.


I'd suggest checking out Extreme Rigs Radiator round-up. It's pretty current having been run last year, and has tons of info to help you make a decision. Here's a link to the results page.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/

The Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS rads would probably fit your description for a sub 30mm rad. Tests very well for a slim rad, and is supposed to be optimized for low rpm fans.

For not so slim I like the Hardware Labs SR2. Really good performing rad, low rpm optimized, but my favorite are all the options for tube routing due to it's 8 ports.

Edited to say that if you can fit a 280 rad you're gonna have more fin real estate than a 240 and that's a good thing.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Finally got my desk cleared.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yo, what screen is this?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Finally got my desk cleared.....


Wow, just wow!









Well, I do work with a very nice lady from Slovenia, who has been a good family friend for many years.
Not quite the same as working for EK though, lol.

All the best to you Daniel!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Wow, just wow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I do work with a very nice lady from Slovenia, who has been a good family friend for many years.
> Not quite the same as working for EK though, lol.
> 
> All the best to you Daniel!


Just a follow up, The S3 is a go. Going to sell the Dresser and get a nice desk.









TCO


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> High FPI Nemesis rads and low speed fans = Not ideal


I did some research, and I know what you're saying. I'll be running my fans at around 1000 rpm or less most likely. Hopefully in a push/pull setup with lower rpm. Thanks though, geggeg is actually the one I consulted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Except the current Nemesis rads have thin fins (25 microns, 16 FPI) and tubes (1.2 mm diameter) so they are optimized for low speed/low airflow/low noise. Very ideal.
> Radiator. Singular. The Coolstream XE is very good once you get a decent amount of air through it, and the others are okay. Best to pair them with high performance radiator fans, which is what EK intends as well.


Haha beat me to it, I appreciate the help again.
Performance PC's:
120 mm x 4 fan Xtreme form factor two-pass radiator
518mm x 133mm x 54mm (L x W x H)
16 FPI 25 Micron Copper Fins
Now optimized for sub-800 rpm ultra-stealth fans
Supercruise optimizations for scalable performance with higher speed fans
15% more tubing area in the same Black Ice® GTX™ 480 form factor
Increased internal coolant flow rates
Standard G 1/4" inlet/outlet fittings
Standard M4 mounting threads
Custom Dark Matter™ high quality finish
Fully ROHS Compliant
100% Made from conflict-free materials
Industry standard Black Ice® quality
Lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects*

Not sure how true it is, but that's in the description.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Wow, just wow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I do work with a very nice lady from Slovenia, who has been a good family friend for many years.
> Not quite the same as working for EK though, lol.
> 
> All the best to you Daniel!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a follow up, The S3 is a go. Going to sell the Dresser and get a nice desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Darn,

And I thought you were going to sell the S3 to me . . . . you already have one


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Looks like a pattern @[email protected] did for an SMA8
> 
> See If I can find it.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDit; BOOM Got it
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1543856/build-complete-neun-blanc-bitspower-caselabs-sma8-x99-5960x-klevv-ddr4-galax-980gtx-halloffame-sli-aquacomputer/0_20


Most certainly is, loved the design the moment I saw it.


----------



## wizardbro

Quick question. I have my EK revo d5 pump's molex connector removed and atx crimped and ready to insert.

I can insert the red wire and black wire from my pump into any of the two 5v and ground slots on peripheral and sata atx right?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> I think the radiators need a good match with fans. EK seems to need higher RPM fans to perform. At least from what I've seen, especially the XE series. Vardars probably work really well. I'm going low speed ELoops, so I'll be using Nemesis GTX. Just my opinion of course.


My bad on things, VSG corrected my statement. ^_^;;;;
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> That's really cool, buddy. Congrats! Btw, you aren't the only one moving far for a job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I'll be trading the mountains in Colorado for mountains and the beach in California. I haven't said anything on FB because I don't want my current job to know yet, but you and I will probably be in touch more often now on the business side


Oh sweet, moving into the office and taking on additional responsibilities there I take it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Radiator. Singular. The Coolstream XE is very good once you get a decent amount of air through it, and the others are okay. Best to pair them with high performance radiator fans, which is what EK intends as well.


My bad on that one. Totally forgot the other two don't perform anywhere near as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Finally got my desk cleared.....


But the biggest question is what's going on the desk next... Can't wait to see that project!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Darn,
> 
> And I thought you were going to sell the S3 to me . . . . you already have one


Oh my Diva, Well the S3 (Southern Persuasion) is for my work.

The White S3 with Ped is for the woman.









TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Darn,
> 
> And I thought you were going to sell the S3 to me . . . . you already have one
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my Diva, Well the S3 (Southern Persuasion) is for my work.
> 
> The White S3 with Ped is for the woman.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Ahhhh,

You know cougars always mess the prey a little . .

"The woman" will no doubt end up with a sweet machine, but it wouldn't hurt to refer to her in a less misogynistic manner, . . . maybe just use her name going forward . .

D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ahhhh,
> 
> You know cougars always mess the prey a little . .
> 
> "The woman" will no doubt end up with a sweet machine, but it wouldn't hurt to refer to her in a less misogynistic manner, . . . maybe just use her name going forward . .
> 
> D.


You know, someone told me the same thing the other day. It is not a sign of disrespect. Nor would I say it if I thought it was.









If it should Please you, Ruth will enjoy the S3 once I can get a head start on it









TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ahhhh,
> 
> You know cougars always mess the prey a little . .
> 
> "The woman" will no doubt end up with a sweet machine, but it wouldn't hurt to refer to her in a less misogynistic manner, . . . maybe just use her name going forward . .
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> You know, someone told me the same thing the other day. It is not a sign of disrespect. Nor would I say it if I thought it was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it should Please you, Ruth will enjoy the S3 once I can get a head start on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I know you meant no disrespect, but look at it as the difference in how you feel when your sales manager says "Hey Bud, how's it goin'", and

Hey Colin, great work on closing that sale".

We all like to be called by our name over some generic term any day.

Tell Ruth I'll make sure you don't take any shortcuts on her new build . . .


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I know you meant no disrespect, but look at it as the difference in how you feel when your sales manager says "Hey Bud, how's it goin'", and
> 
> Hey Colin, great work on closing that sale".
> 
> We all like to be called by our name over some generic term any day.
> 
> Tell Ruth I'll make sure you don't take any shortcuts on her new build . . .


Good point.

Ill let her know. I am ready to get started but the funds need to be there.

TCO


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just a follow up, The S3 is a go. Going to sell the Dresser and get a nice desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I guess people normally buy more cars after a flood since their old car is now trash.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Darn,
> 
> And I thought you were going to sell the S3 to me . . . . you already have one


Darlene, I saw your pictures. I think the last thing you need is another case. You probably have a couple of S3s in there somewhere.


----------



## Radmanhs

I would gladly take an S3


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You know, someone told me the same thing the other day. It is not a sign of disrespect. Nor would I say it if I thought it was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it should Please you, Ruth will enjoy the S3 once I can get a head start on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


That's what everyone in Louisiana says. ?


----------



## Sazexa

Pretty much finished the loop the other night. The rest of the PC needs a bit of work, but the loop is done.


----------



## MR-e

It's nice to see some good ole ZMT tubing every now and then. Looks very contemporary with the nickle/black theme.


----------



## derickwm

<3 proper ZMT builds


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> It's nice to see some good ole ZMT tubing every now and then. Looks very contemporary with the nickle/black theme.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> <3 proper ZMT builds


Glad it's liked! I'm thinking about changing my backplates to the nickel ones, though. Not sure if I'd like it or not.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> It's nice to see some good ole ZMT tubing every now and then. Looks very contemporary with the nickle/black theme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> <3 proper ZMT builds
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Glad it's liked! I'm thinking about changing my backplates to the nickel ones, though. Not sure if I'd like it or not.
Click to expand...

You won't regret it. I haven't met a customer who bought a nickel backplate for the first time and was unhappy with it. We need to market them much more than we currently do imo.

Just ask @B NEGATIVE


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> It's nice to see some good ole ZMT tubing every now and then. Looks very contemporary with the nickle/black theme.


ZMT Tube was Rubber or? without plastilizer? dont know if i should buy zmt next or primoflex advanced lrt red....


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> ZMT Tube was Rubber or? without plastilizer? dont know if i should buy zmt next or primoflex advanced lrt red....


ZMT is (iirc) EPDM rubber, which means no plasticizer and some amazing resilience. I personally think it's also surprisingly great for small builds, given you don't have size constraints on your tubing for clearance reasons. I have some in my modded Hadron build and the bend radius it facilitates is impressive.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> ZMT is (iirc) EPDM rubber, which means no plasticizer and some amazing resilience. I personally think it's also surprisingly great for small builds, given you don't have size constraints on your tubing for clearance reasons. I have some in my modded Hadron build and the bend radius it facilitates is impressive.


Do you think they work with Barrow fittings? maybe i go a bit more black in my next rig....A Core X9


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Do you think they work with Barrow fittings? maybe i go a bit more black in my next rig....A Core X9


It's certainly doable, but the fit is a little tight for my liking. I'm using Barrow's 3/8" ID 5/8" OD fittings and the threads of the compression collar get caught on the ZMT, making it hard to tighten them.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> It's certainly doable, but the fit is a little tight for my liking. I'm using Barrow's 3/8" ID 5/8" OD fittings and the threads of the compression collar get caught on the ZMT, making it hard to tighten them.


Nice! i like it tight. Tight = leakfree = happy me!

I think i have to change my building-plans a bit









From me a Rep


----------



## DarthBaggins

Zmt has to be my personal favorite tubing. Easy to use and still amazed on how tight I can make bends with it


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Zmt has to be my personal favorite tubing. Easy to use and still amazed on how tight I can make bends with it


so i COULD do a C Connect between 2 GPUs without problem?(First and Third slot)


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> so i COULD do a C Connect between 2 GPUs without problem?(First and Third slot)


I mean, potentially. I had a bend almost that size that didn't kink (though it looked like going tighter would have made it do so), but it did put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the fittings themselves. I'm fairly certain that if I had left it like that, it would have leaked.


----------



## Deeptek

Thought I saw some PPC's codes floating around one of my Subbed Threads the other day. Anyone care to relay the info if they have the screenshot of it? Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Really interesting open bench:

http://openbenchtable.com/products/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Thought I saw some PPC's codes floating around one of my Subbed Threads the other day. Anyone care to relay the info if they have the screenshot of it? Thanks.


Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:

Spend $50 get 7% off: "SCHOOL16-7"
Spend $250 get 8.5% off: "SCHOOL16-85"
Spend over $500 get 10% off: "SCHOOL16-10"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items.
Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 21st through August 28th 2015. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Deeptek

Thanks bud


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Thanks bud


And when those expire remember the OCN55 code for 5.5% off


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey.. what would you all recommend for the best radiator fan at the 750-1k rpm for performance and silence? I need 2 120x and 2 140s at this range.

Thanks!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really interesting open bench:
> http://openbenchtable.com/products/


Thats a pretty clever design, reasonably priced too considering the way its build.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really interesting open bench:
> 
> http://openbenchtable.com/products/


I want one but I don't have the part to do a build in it right now, maybe in a little while. That price is definitely right.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> so i COULD do a C Connect between 2 GPUs without problem?(First and Third slot)


Should be able to without an issue, since I put in the D5 after my old DDC finally kicked the bucket a few runs had to be changed:


----------



## Gabrielzm

A brushed aluminium caselabs?





ready to take the new paint


----------



## Jyve

My modest loop with zmt. In a fractal design arc mini r2.


----------



## emsj86

For those who paint to water cool build. Is it possible to get a almost chrome/nickel finish if I were to paint my gpu back plates. They don't have nickel in the Gpus I have and was debating having them plated.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For those who paint to water cool build. Is it possible to get a almost chrome/nickel finish if I were to paint my gpu back plates. They don't have nickel in the Gpus I have and was debating having them plated.


What is the material of the backplate? Delrin? Aluminum anodized? Copper?

You can paint almost anything and I am sure you can find a chrome like paint. However, the finish will be judged by the eyes of the beholder. Delrin can be painted but is not exactly paint friendly. Few have attempted to paint delrin (at least last time I checked 1 or 2 years ago) and usually from the pics I saw the finish was not that good and easy to nic with use. If you search this thread you will find a D5 top (ek delrin) painted (if my memory still serves which sometimes I doubted....).


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> My modest loop with zmt. In a fractal design arc mini r2.


Just curious as to why your tubes are crossing at the CPU. If you have a specific inlet/outlet side, why not just flip the block around so you don't have crossing tubes?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For those who paint to water cool build. Is it possible to get a almost chrome/nickel finish if I were to paint my gpu back plates. They don't have nickel in the Gpus I have and was debating having them plated.


There is chrome spray paint that you can pick up. That works really well and looks like chrome. My dad accidentally painted our gas meter with that paint. He thought it was grey lol. That thing shined!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> A brushed aluminium caselabs?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ready to take the new paint


Forgot caselabs is aluminium, why not polish it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Forgot caselabs is aluminium, why not polish it?


I am painting the case. Not leaving brushed or polished. I just posted because it is not everyday we see a caselabs bare and I thought was kind of pretty in brushed after the sanding.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am painting the case. Not leaving brushed or polished. I just posted because it is not everyday we see a caselabs bare and I thought was kind of pretty in brushed after the sanding.


Ohh I see, sorry.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Just curious as to why your tubes are crossing at the CPU. If you have a specific inlet/outlet side, why not just flip the block around so you don't have crossing tubes?


Yeah there is a specific inlet outlet port and though ek said the difference in temps if switched wouldn't be a lot I wanted to stick with how it was designed. As for flipping the block, as shallow as it is, having the EK logo upside down would drive my pc ocd nuts.

I'm OK with the crossed tubes...for now.

This is my first loop and certainly could've done things differently. Obviously my drain line should've been done differently.

I'll be adding a 360mm rad up top in the near future and I'll be changing some stuff around. We'll see how it goes then.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ohh I see, sorry.


Don't worry, no need to apologies. Getting ready to test this:


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Don't worry, no need to apologies. Getting ready to test this:


Nice







. Hoping to test my HVLP spray gun this weekend too.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really interesting open bench:
> 
> http://openbenchtable.com/products/


Yeah, the release version is soooo much sexier and nicer than the originally teased one. I'm tempted to pick one up myself, as it would sure beat the motherboard box my benching rig is on!


----------



## muzammil84

this is gonna be a very long shot...
I'm looking for a guy/build when LZT flow meter's been used. there was one in Case Labs I think, with two Bitspower reservoirs and lzt flow meter between them. black case with green liquid if I remember right. That was months ago, I can't find it








thx


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> this is gonna be a very long shot...
> I'm looking for a guy/build when LZT flow meter's been used. there was one in Case Labs I think, with two Bitspower reservoirs and lzt flow meter between them. black case with green liquid if I remember right. That was months ago, I can't find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx


@Costas build

http://www.overclock.net/t/1582417/build-log-downunder-sma8-build-d-j-vu#post_24657345


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @Costas build
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1582417/build-log-downunder-sma8-build-d-j-vu#post_24657345


you're a legend, thank you


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You're the only one I've seen use a pressure test setup, sure you might not have been the first but you pretty much pushed it to loads of people for the greater good, Shoggy didn't see it? Sure...


Using air pressure to test the integrity of liquid carrying pipe and tube has been around for years, well before any of us were born. I was reminded of this method by IT Diva and B Negative, but it is far from an original idea. If one person thought to use it for the purpose of water cooled PC gear testing, then chances are someone else thought of it also.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For those who paint to water cool build. Is it possible to get a almost chrome/nickel finish if I were to paint my gpu back plates. They don't have nickel in the Gpus I have and was debating having them plated.





I thought this may help you with whether you may like the look enough to either plate or paint your backplates. I like the look myself, but of course, opinions vary.

I know most hobby stores and home improvement stores sell some brand or color version of these type of paints. The link below just puts a few products in one place to get an idea of what is out there. Never tried the stuff, so no idea how well it coats or what it looks like.

https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Achrome%20spray%20paint


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am painting the case. Not leaving brushed or polished. I just posted because it is not everyday we see a caselabs bare and I thought was kind of pretty in brushed after the sanding.


Before I bought my CaseLabs, I stripped, sanded, painted, polished, etc a Little Devil PC-V8 case I had. I don't have a painting studio or anything, so most of the work was done outside in the heat. After applying a clear coat on my case with it hanging from chains in my backyard, I went inside to get something to drink. While I was inside, I heard someone with a leaf blower. I couldn't see anyone anywhere. Then I noticed it was my neighbor's kid, who cuts my grass to earn gas money, and he was standing on my roof blowing leaves out of my gutters. There was so much crap flying around in the air, it stuck all over my clear coat. I almost got on the roof to push him off. Making a case look as good as you've made this one look takes a lot of time and a lot of patience, unless you have a sandblaster, which I don't.

Very nice work on that case. I know how much time and energy goes into making it look that good. "Working with a clean slate," as they would say.


----------



## sate200

My rig.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this may help you with whether you may like the look enough to either plate or paint your backplates. I like the look myself, but of course, opinions vary.
> 
> I know most hobby stores and home improvement stores sell some brand or color version of these type of paints. The link below just puts a few products in one place to get an idea of what is out there. Never tried the stuff, so no idea how well it coats or what it looks like.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Achrome%20spray%20paint


Thanks man. And yea I love the look chrome or nickel to me looks so clean with and splash of another color to make it pop and sparkle looks amazing to me


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am painting the case. Not leaving brushed or polished. I just posted because it is not everyday we see a caselabs bare and I thought was kind of pretty in brushed after the sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> Before I bought my CaseLabs, I stripped, sanded, painted, polished, etc a Little Devil PC-V8 case I had. I don't have a painting studio or anything, so most of the work was done outside in the heat. After applying a clear coat on my case with it hanging from chains in my backyard, I went inside to get something to drink. While I was inside, I heard someone with a leaf blower. I couldn't see anyone anywhere. Then I noticed it was my neighbor's kid, who cuts my grass to earn gas money, and he was standing on my roof blowing leaves out of my gutters. There was so much crap flying around in the air, it stuck all over my clear coat. I almost got on the roof to push him off. Making a case look as good as you've made this one look takes a lot of time and a lot of patience, unless you have a sandblaster, which I don't.
> 
> Very nice work on that case. I know how much time and energy goes into making it look that good. "Working with a clean slate," as they would say.
Click to expand...

this made me laugh so hard !~


----------



## Kyouki

Exciting finally leak testing the new rig. Wish I had better pictures but lost my natural light. Will take finishing pictures tomorrow!


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Getting back into the desktop computers...





Follow my work here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1609874/project-industrious-heavy-rain-mk2


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really interesting open bench:
> 
> http://openbenchtable.com/products/
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend $50 get 7% off: "SCHOOL16-7"
> Spend $250 get 8.5% off: "SCHOOL16-85"
> Spend over $500 get 10% off: "SCHOOL16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items.
> Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from *August 21st through August 28th 2015*. One coupon per order please.)


It says 2015, We are in 2016.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It says 2015, We are in 2016.


It works I used it about a week ago.

Dropping a teaser leak test went perfect. Loading windows now.


----------



## Trestles126

Another quick question while I'm here. With the res located above the pump on left and a tube running out of bottom thru mobo tray then into a 90 back up thru mobo tray and into the pump combo I have. Will the pump be supplied efficiently in theory the res is slightly above the pump but the tube supplying the inlet of pump will be routed under neath and back up. Trying to figure out clean ways that work to get the pump fed . In the end the res top will be at the highest point of build but on other side of gpu. Gotta route inlet under tray and back up to pump . Figure if the inlet to the pump is below the res should be fine


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It says 2015, We are in 2016.


PPC typing error not mine. It came straight from my email received on August 5th 2016, so the codes are good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am painting the case. Not leaving brushed or polished. I just posted because it is not everyday we see a caselabs bare and I thought was kind of pretty in brushed after the sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> Before I bought my CaseLabs, I stripped, sanded, painted, polished, etc a Little Devil PC-V8 case I had. I don't have a painting studio or anything, so most of the work was done outside in the heat. After applying a clear coat on my case with it hanging from chains in my backyard, I went inside to get something to drink. While I was inside, I heard someone with a leaf blower. I couldn't see anyone anywhere. Then I noticed it was my neighbor's kid, who cuts my grass to earn gas money, and he was standing on my roof blowing leaves out of my gutters. There was so much crap flying around in the air, it stuck all over my clear coat. I almost got on the roof to push him off. Making a case look as good as you've made this one look takes a lot of time and a lot of patience, unless you have a sandblaster, which I don't.
> 
> Very nice work on that case. I know how much time and energy goes into making it look that good. "Working with a clean slate," as they would say.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> this made me laugh so hard !~
Click to expand...

IKR!









I woulda sent that kid sailing and not on water.









Cause there is no reason he should be doing any work on any property without first inquiring with the owner.









~Ceadder


----------



## fa5terba11

Hey guys I'm hoping someone can help me. Is it okay to have my inlet and outlet on the same side of the gpu?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Hey guys I'm hoping someone can help me. Is it okay to have my inlet and outlet on the same side of the gpu?


Nope, there won't be any flow.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Hey guys I'm hoping someone can help me. Is it okay to have my inlet and outlet on the same side of the gpu?


Like this? If so yes, of course you can.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Hey guys I'm hoping someone can help me. Is it okay to have my inlet and outlet on the same side of the gpu?


To (hopefully) give a better visual representation:

This will work just fine:


This will not work at all:


Not gonna lie, I'm a little excited to have a spare block laying around I can use to show this kind of stuff.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> To (hopefully) give a better visual representation:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This will work just fine:
> 
> 
> This will not work at all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not gonna lie, I'm a little excited to have a spare block laying around I can use to show this kind of stuff.


What block is that?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> PPC typing error not mine. It came straight from my email received on August 5th 2016, so the codes are good.


Odd, I can't seem to get any of those codes to work.

Coupon code "SCHOOL16-7" is not valid.[/quote]


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> PPC typing error not mine. It came straight from my email received on August 5th 2016, so the codes are good.
> 
> 
> 
> Odd, I can't seem to get any of those codes to work.
> 
> Coupon code "SCHOOL16-7" is not valid.
Click to expand...

It didn't work for me just now either . . . . .









At least the OCN55 worked, which didn't make much difference in the long run, as I only spent about $100.

Also strange though, that I didn't get the email with the discount codes . . . . which I never seem to miss.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Odd, I can't seem to get any of those codes to work.
> 
> Coupon code "SCHOOL16-7" is not valid.


[/quote]

same codes are recovered here:

http://www.fyvor.com/coupons/performance-pcs-com/

be aware that not all products are eligible for discount codes. Might be that your shopping cart include one or more of those (like PSU or MB or CPU). Try the usual OCN55 and see if works. Check your shopping cart for non eligible items.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Odd, I can't seem to get any of those codes to work.
> 
> Coupon code "SCHOOL16-7" is not valid.
Click to expand...

same codes are recovered here:

http://www.fyvor.com/coupons/performance-pcs-com/

be aware that not all products are eligible for discount codes. Might be that your shopping cart include one or more of those (like PSU or MB or CPU). Try the usual OCN55 and see if works. Check your shopping cart for non eligible items.[/quote]

That could be, one of my items was a Cablemods PSU set on sale, and the other items didn't add up to $50, although the 5.5% applied to the cable set when I checked out . . .


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> same codes are recovered here:
> 
> http://www.fyvor.com/coupons/performance-pcs-com/
> 
> be aware that not all products are eligible for discount codes. Might be that your shopping cart include one or more of those (like PSU or MB or CPU). Try the usual OCN55 and see if works. Check your shopping cart for non eligible items.


I know OCN55 works, but the others don't. everything in my cart are fittings or weatercooling items.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It didn't work for me just now either . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least the OCN55 worked, which didn't make much difference in the long run, as I only spent about $100.
> 
> Also strange though, that I didn't get the email with the discount codes . . . . which I never seem to miss.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I know OCN55 works, but the others don't. everything in my cart are fittings or weatercooling items.


Just tried too with 270 US$ in the cart (5 rads just to simulate) and did not work either. Weird. I would give them a call but it is the weekend so...Shot an email. I got on August 5th this year Darlene. I think VSG post the same coupons before me.

edit - here found his original post. He got the same email

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/99740#post_25413221

Most likely they used the same codes that from last year and make a mistake on the coupons validity? The original email said over the next weekend and was sent on August 5th.

edit 2 - yep, last year email with codes were the same dates and codes. I bet they made a mistake on this one and the validity was not from 21 to 28th August but a week earlier.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> What block is that?


It's a Koolance VID-NX580. Got it when I bought a 570 Classy from another forum-goer a while back.


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I bet they made a mistake on this one and the validity was not from 21 to 28th August but a week earlier.


I got impatient sitting there with a bunch of stuff in my cart, so I tried it on the 19th. The 8.5% off code was working then, so you may be right.


----------



## Ceadderman

Would be nice if that code works as I will be getting Predator 240 v1.1 *very* soon.









Otherwise I'm content with OCN55.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am painting the case. Not leaving brushed or polished. I just posted because it is not everyday we see a caselabs bare and I thought was kind of pretty in brushed after the sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> Before I bought my CaseLabs, I stripped, sanded, painted, polished, etc a Little Devil PC-V8 case I had. I don't have a painting studio or anything, so most of the work was done outside in the heat. After applying a clear coat on my case with it hanging from chains in my backyard, I went inside to get something to drink. While I was inside, I heard someone with a leaf blower. I couldn't see anyone anywhere. Then I noticed it was my neighbor's kid, who cuts my grass to earn gas money, and he was standing on my roof blowing leaves out of my gutters. There was so much crap flying around in the air, it stuck all over my clear coat. I almost got on the roof to push him off. Making a case look as good as you've made this one look takes a lot of time and a lot of patience, unless you have a sandblaster, which I don't.
> 
> Very nice work on that case. I know how much time and energy goes into making it look that good. "Working with a clean slate," as they would say.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> this made me laugh so hard !~
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> IKR!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I woulda sent that kid sailing and not on water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cause there is no reason he should be doing any work on any property without first inquiring with the owner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Yeah, that should be the way.

As they say, "crap happens" (can't post the original saying here obviously, lol.)

Off-topic, but I've had similar experiences, seeded my back yard, then the windstorms came out of nowhere, some damn stray German Shepherd dog started running around on the newly-seeded dirt, somehow it eventually grew a semi-decent lawn, lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Before I bought my CaseLabs, I stripped, sanded, painted, polished, etc a Little Devil PC-V8 case I had. I don't have a painting studio or anything, so most of the work was done outside in the heat. After applying a clear coat on my case with it hanging from chains in my backyard, I went inside to get something to drink. *While I was inside, I heard someone with a leaf blower.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't see anyone anywhere. Then I noticed it was my neighbor's kid, who cuts my grass to earn gas money, and he was standing on my roof blowing leaves out of my gutters. There was so much crap flying around in the air, it stuck all over my clear coat. I almost got on the roof to push him off. Making a case look as good as you've made this one look takes a lot of time and a lot of patience, unless you have a sandblaster, which I don't.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice work on that case. I know how much time and energy goes into making it look that good. "Working with a clean slate," as they would say.


That's insane for me to even imagine hearing, sorry about that experience bro, Cool story though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> It works I used it about a week ago.
> 
> Dropping a teaser leak test went perfect. Loading windows now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In this picture, the res and the clear acrylic top of the D5, allowing me to slightly see the white coolant in the D5 top almost convinces me to purchase this combo. Great Picture mate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> *Another quick question while I'm here. With the res located above the pump on left and a tube running out of bottom thru mobo tray then into a 90 back up thru mobo tray and into the pump combo I have. Will the pump be supplied efficiently in theory the res is slightly above the pump but the tube supplying the inlet of pump will be routed under neath and back up.* Trying to figure out clean ways that work to get the pump fed . In the end the res top will be at the highest point of build but on other side of gpu. Gotta route inlet under tray and back up to pump . Figure if the inlet to the pump is below the res should be fine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The bolded part. Right there I stopped. I would imagine a reference to a toilet set up, almost like a snake, where gravity could come into play. This is a tough question. One thing that I could say, is that gravity is quite the element in the equation. Where you have the res full of fluid pushing down on the "Air" leading to the pump, when the pump would be turned on, created a suction and thus pulling the fluid into itself? Correct? I would think that this setup could work, though an alternative would be a type of fitting attached to the inlet of the pump, where you can have your full loop in tact, but have a tube coming off of say, a Q Rotary, allowing you multiple outlet of that inlet fitting to the pump, then connecting a temp "Reservoir" supplying fluid to the loop until you res is full.. if that makes any sense








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Nope, there won't be any flow.


Jumping to answers before enough data was given

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would be nice if that code *works as I will be getting Predator 240 v1.1* *very* soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I'm content with OCN55.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder




With your experience of liquid cooling, an AIO ??? Ceadder... we passed up april fools... you're kidding right?

Come on.. LEDS lights like disco balls, fluid splashing everyone, an eyecatching orgasm? No?









TCO

EDIT: Wanted to toss the finalized "Corner" set up in here for those wondering. 4k and 1440p


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*


_Why have three screens and use the front two to completely cover the third one?_

That was my initial reaction to seeing the above pic ... it wasn't until the second pic that I realized my 3rd screen was the PC.


----------



## Radmanhs

do you guys prefer 16 or 13 od hard tubing for your plumbing, I'm buying parts, but haven't decided on that yet


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Like this? If so yes, of course you can.


what is the graphic card on pic? with 3 power connectors ?
edit : on its 980ti gb extreme gaming windforce .)


----------



## ajamesc55

Think I'm finally done with my pc for awhile.


----------



## MadPolygon

Does anyone know if the new Primochill Revolver SX is just a rebrand of the old Revolver fittings?

I'm asking because I'm missing one fitting for my loop and I bought a 10 pack of black ones about half a year ago, which were the Revolver Fittings (without SX).

The old ones seem to be EOL and the new ones have different named colors like "Satin Black". A lot of pictures of the new ones look like they're painted, where as the old ones look anodized to me.

Here is what I mean...

Old "Primochill Revolver Black":



New "Primochill Revolver SX Satin Black":

 

It would look bad if that one fitting is slightly different. Maybe one of you had both ones and can tell if they're the same?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol looky what popped up on my Instagram feed from Asus_ROGUK


----------



## B NEGATIVE

It was slashed together right quick,not my finest work.


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It was slashed together right quick,not my finest work.


Oh noes! Is that the final build for the new D Frame? No Build Log?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would be nice if that code *works as I will be getting Predator 240 v1.1* *very* soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I'm content with OCN55.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With your experience of liquid cooling, an AIO ??? Ceadder... we passed up april fools... you're kidding right?
> 
> Come on.. LEDS lights like disco balls, fluid splashing everyone, an eyecatching orgasm? No?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Wanted to toss the finalized "Corner" set up in here for those wondering. 4k and 1440p
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Vizzy gratification
Click to expand...











It's not for my rig TCO.

I'm building a twitch build with:

i7-4790k
Gamer Pro MB
Nitro R9 390
Corsair 780T
Seasonic 1050 Platinum.
Corsair Strafe w/Cherry Red switches.

If it were mine I'd simply go with custom loop rather than go with the Predator 240. But this build is going into a Mobile where cooling is minimal and it has to be fairly quiet so as not to upset the octogenarian who resides in the next room too. Guy saved up the money and saw that he can do game tutorials so he wanted a Twitch rig to go next to his other rig. Honestly he doesn't have much room, but he picked out the case and said *"Build it for me."*

So given the constraints and the rather tidy sum to get the parts, I figured I'd rather put him on an AIO that was worthy of the investment. Might install hardline for him to keep things clean and simple though.









Sucks that his budget couldn't fit in a 4K monitor, but I will be talking to him about it once I get it all built and sorted out. Give him time to bounce back from the cost of the build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> do you guys prefer 16 or 13 od hard tubing for your plumbing, I'm buying parts, but haven't decided on that yet


Most of us like larger tubing. I'm putting in 5/8" Hardline in my personal rig. I went from 3/4" flex to 5/8" Hardline. But tbh, it's simply a matter of personal taste. If you like large tubing then go with that. If you like small tubing... well I'm sure you get the drift. There is no performance gains to be had from either so it's all a matter of taste.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quick question on DDC pumps, I read every now and then on here they can get hot if they're ran too fast and such, what do I need to know about owning 2 of these pumps? gf is doing a portal 2 build and want's to run dual loops in the Define S and D5's are a little bit too big so wondering if DDCs would be better suited.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quick question on DDC pumps, I read every now and then on here they can get hot if they're ran too fast and such, what do I need to know about owning 2 of these pumps? gf is doing a portal 2 build and want's to run dual loops in the Define S and D5's are a little bit too big so wondering if DDCs would be better suited.


Get heatsinks for them and you will be fine. Even more so if you have some form of fan controller setup to run them. Still even at full speed, they run just fine so long as you have something to wick the heat off them.









I had my Dual v2 setup sideways in the case and behind my 230mm fan and controlled so heat was negligible.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get heatsinks for them and you will be fine. Even more so if you have some form of fan controller setup to run them. Still even at full speed, they run just fine so long as you have something to wick the heat off them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had my Dual v2 setup sideways in the case and behind my 230mm fan and controlled so heat was negligible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


They'll be on the floor of the case with a fan in front of them as the define S has 3 120mm fans mounted on the front so heatsinks will be fitted for insurance. I've only just overclocked her system so I don't expect them to be working like overkill speeds or anything. They'll most likely be running off the dedicated pump fan header on the sabertooth z170 board. Any additional advice on pump tops? the more form fitting the better as I've seen some that over hang the pump body a tad bit?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They'll be on the floor of the case with a fan in front of them as the define S has 3 120mm fans mounted on the front so heatsinks will be fitted for insurance. I've only just overclocked her system so I don't expect them to be working like overkill speeds or anything. *They'll most likely be running off the dedicated pump fan heade*r on the sabertooth z170 board. Any additional advice on pump tops? the more form fitting the better as I've seen some that over hang the pump body a tad bit?


I would personally never run pumps off of board, I would run them off of molex or straight from PSU.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get heatsinks for them and you will be fine. Even more so if you have some form of fan controller setup to run them. Still even at full speed, they run just fine so long as you have something to wick the heat off them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had my Dual v2 setup sideways in the case and behind my 230mm fan and controlled so heat was negligible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They'll be on the floor of the case with a fan in front of them as the define S has 3 120mm fans mounted on the front so heatsinks will be fitted for insurance. I've only just overclocked her system so I don't expect them to be working like overkill speeds or anything. They'll most likely be running off the dedicated pump fan header on the sabertooth z170 board. Any additional advice on pump tops? the more form fitting the better as I've seen some that over hang the pump body a tad bit?
Click to expand...

I like EK tops. They work really well. But I had the Dual DDC top and have since sold it part and parsel with the pumps.

I think *this EK Xtop* would work for your purposes.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They'll be on the floor of the case with a fan in front of them as the define S has 3 120mm fans mounted on the front so heatsinks will be fitted for insurance. I've only just overclocked her system so I don't expect them to be working like overkill speeds or anything. *They'll most likely be running off the dedicated pump fan heade*r on the sabertooth z170 board. Any additional advice on pump tops? the more form fitting the better as I've seen some that over hang the pump body a tad bit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would personally never run pumps off of board, I would run them off of molex or straight from PSU.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Agreed. Or as suggested, with a fan controller.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> Oh noes! Is that the final build for the new D Frame? No Build Log?


Noooooo! Just a quicky to show off ASUS Aura nonsense,they asked me to change the hardware in the CL build but I refused so I did a 'throwaway' build. I will be stripping it later.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quick question on DDC pumps, I read every now and then on here they can get hot if they're ran too fast and such, what do I need to know about owning 2 of these pumps? gf is doing a portal 2 build and want's to run dual loops in the Define S and D5's are a little bit too big so wondering if DDCs would be better suited.


use the new EK SPC-60 pump. Since your running dual loops it will have plenty of flow and they don't have the heat problem like DDC's but give the same footprint.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> do you guys prefer 16 or 13 od hard tubing for your plumbing, I'm buying parts, but haven't decided on that yet


Depends on the size of your case. If you got a bigger case the smaller sized tubing looks tiny in the case. With my current Build I'm going with 16(I have a CaseLabs SM8).

----

Just haven't decided on what fittings to use Bitspower or Monsoon. Monsoon uses those odd caps that you have to glue into place.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> do you guys prefer 16 or 13 od hard tubing for your plumbing, I'm buying parts, but haven't decided on that yet
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the size of your case. If you got a bigger case the smaller sized tubing looks tiny in the case. With my current Build I'm going with 16(I have a CaseLabs SM8).
> 
> ----
> 
> Just haven't decided on what fittings to use Bitspower or Monsoon. Monsoon uses those odd caps that you have to glue into place.
Click to expand...

I'm going to use the inwin 303, so a mid tower. I think the 16mm stuff would look good.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Just haven't decided on what fittings to use Bitspower or Monsoon. Monsoon uses those odd caps that you have to glue into place.


Monsoon has fittings that don't require glue. Look for the econ v2 versions.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey guys.. old school acrylic guy (did mine like 3 years ago).. I have basic c47s that have the orings and nothing else.. is there something I can add to a c47 to make it more secure or do I need to buy all new fittings?

this is 12mm


----------



## DarthBaggins

You'd have to get new fittings last I checked


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You'd have to get new fittings last I checked


Thanks wanted to ask.. had my pc on my floor and my 3 year old yanked a tube out a few days ago...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Depends on the size of your case. If you got a bigger case the smaller sized tubing looks tiny in the case. With my current Build I'm going with 16(I have a CaseLabs SM8).
> 
> ----
> 
> Just haven't decided on what fittings to use Bitspower or Monsoon. Monsoon uses those odd caps that you have to glue into place.


I used the glue ones, they're pretty good and after you get used to how the glue works it's pretty painless. Mine have been great though I did mess up 2 tubes but that wasn't the fault of the fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like EK tops. They work really well. But I had the Dual DDC top and have since sold it part and parsel with the pumps.
> 
> I think *this EK Xtop* would work for your purposes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Or as suggested, with a fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


How come a fan controller? She won't have one in the case tbh though I do have one I could put in if needs be but if I could just control it from the board and be done with it that would work out best. Unless you mean to tell me it will burn out the header or something?


----------



## fa5terba11

I just completed my In Win 303 build!


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> Just finished my In Win 303 build!


is it only me, or can anyone else only see the very top of the picture, while the rest is gray?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> is it only me, or can anyone else only see the very top of the picture, while the rest is gray?


Corrupt image.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How come a fan controller? She won't have one in the case tbh though I do have one I could put in if needs be but if I could just control it from the board and be done with it that would work out best. Unless you mean to tell me it will burn out the header or something?


That's why.

I wouldn't mess with connecting pumps to the mobo directly, imo it could be too much for the header.


----------



## fa5terba11

Thanks I fixed it!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> Does anyone know if the new Primochill Revolver SX is just a rebrand of the old Revolver fittings?
> 
> I'm asking because I'm missing one fitting for my loop and I bought a 10 pack of black ones about half a year ago, which were the Revolver Fittings (without SX).
> The old ones seem to be EOL and the new ones have different named colors like "Satin Black". A lot of pictures of the new ones look like they're painted, where as the old ones look anodized to me.
> 
> Here is what I mean...
> 
> Old "Primochill Revolver Black":
> 
> 
> 
> New "Primochill Revolver SX Satin Black":
> 
> 
> 
> It would look bad if that one fitting is slightly different. Maybe one of you had both ones and can tell if they're the same?


Looks pretty much the same to me....just used the SX fittings in CLASSIFIED DEMON.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Depends on the size of your case. If you got a bigger case the smaller sized tubing looks tiny in the case. With my current Build I'm going with 16(I have a CaseLabs SM8).
> 
> ----
> 
> Just haven't decided on what fittings to use Bitspower or Monsoon. Monsoon uses those odd caps that you have to glue into place.
> 
> 
> 
> I used the glue ones, they're pretty good and after you get used to how the glue works it's pretty painless. Mine have been great though I did mess up 2 tubes but that wasn't the fault of the fittings.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like EK tops. They work really well. But I had the Dual DDC top and have since sold it part and parsel with the pumps.
> 
> I think *this EK Xtop* would work for your purposes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Or as suggested, with a fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How come a fan controller? She won't have one in the case tbh though I do have one I could put in if needs be but if I could just control it from the board and be done with it that would work out best. Unless you mean to tell me it will burn out the header or something?
Click to expand...

For silence more'n anything else when running multiple pumps. But it's not necessarily mandatory. As Cautious said you can connect them directly to the PSU or some other power source of convenience.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Giving my new S5 and S8S a bit of a facelift, . . .

Still waiting on the full window top for the S5, so it mimics its wider brother, but I'm liking it already . . .



D.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Giving my new S5 and S8S a bit of a facelift, . . .
> 
> Still waiting on the full window top for the S5, so it mimics its wider brother, but I'm liking it already . . .
> 
> 
> 
> D.


The "facelift" turned out well, very unique look to the front sections with the window mods.









And the S8 looks, shorter now? lol.








S8S, that it is.

I like the look of the extended top on the S5, or the S8(S) for that matter, but if you want a windowed top on both, why not.

I do find myself looking at he photos of the case fronts repeatedly, to get used to the new wider front windows.
It makes sense, rather than having a grilled section on one side and a narrow window on the other, as with the S8(S).
Having a window in the front of the S5 is a treat.

It does cut down on the front flex bay options, but there is still ample room for an Aquaero, etc.

Great job, and a nice unique start to the builds!
Rep+









Edit:
I forgot to mention the switch mod you did for the S5, as the window removed the original switches location.
That worked out well too imo, looks like they belong there.
I read what you did from your post at the CaseLabs Club page:
http://www.overclock.net/t/940461/official-case-labs-owners-club/19740#post_25474924
If I may link that post here.

Looking at the additional photos of the S8S that you posted there, the front window treatment is starting to grow on me.

And, it's no longer a "Jack In The Box", lol.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> That's why.
> 
> I wouldn't mess with connecting pumps to the mobo directly, imo it could be too much for the header.


They're 12v just like fans and you can connect quite a few fans to a header.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For silence more'n anything else when running multiple pumps. But it's not necessarily mandatory. As Cautious said you can connect them directly to the PSU or some other power source of convenience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll try the header first, if it goes pear shaped she can have my board and fan controller. Doubt it will hurt the board though.


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Looks pretty much the same to me....just used the SX fittings in CLASSIFIED DEMON.


Thanks, but I just switched things up a bit and bought 2 red fittings to use as accent. That way it doesn't really matter if the new and old ones are a bit different.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> *They're 12v just like fans* and you can connect quite a few fans to a header.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try the header first, if it goes pear shaped she can have my board and fan controller. Doubt it will hurt the board though.


Unlike fans,pumps can draw much more wattage.....


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Unlike fans,pumps can draw much more wattage.....


Like said they're not in one of my rigs pumping 1.6v into a cpu etc it's just in her gaming rig and she'll want it quiet with a mild OC so they'll more than likely be running at no more than 40% speed. Surely this won't cause a black hole to form around my appartment when running them from a 12v header? Or am I really playing with Voodoo magic and ASUS don't know what they're talking about producing motherboards with dedicated headers on £220 motherboards?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Like said they're not in one of my rigs pumping 1.6v into a cpu etc it's just in her gaming rig and she'll want it quiet with a mild OC so they'll more than likely be running at no more than 40% speed. Surely this won't cause a black hole to form around my appartment when running them from a 12v header? Or am I really playing with Voodoo magic and ASUS don't know what they're talking about producing motherboards with dedicated headers on £220 motherboards?


Dedicated pump header,sure use it, but a normal header? No.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Surely this won't cause a black hole to form around my appartment when running them from a 12v header? Or am I really playing with Voodoo magic and ASUS don't know what they're talking about producing motherboards with dedicated headers on £220 motherboards?


A 3.1 spec DDC running at 12v will only draw 1 amp from a circuit (found on the DDC datasheet). That's right in line with manufacturer's (notably MSI and Asus from various support threads I could find on the topic) max continuous current from a single header. A 3.2 spec pump, however, can draw up to 1.5 amps. A D5 Vario can pull about 2 amps (sourced form some testing Martin did a few years back, could be wrong).

Personally, I don't think it's worth risking frying something on your board. If you've got a header that's labeled for pump use, chances are it's specced higher and you shouldn't have a problem using it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dedicated pump header,sure use it, but a normal header? No.


I wouldn't use a normal header with a liang pump, but the z170 sabertooth comes with a dedicated header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> A 3.1 spec DDC running at 12v will only draw 1 amp from a circuit (found on the DDC datasheet). That's right in line with manufacturer's (notably MSI and Asus from various support threads I could find on the topic) max continuous current from a single header. A 3.2 spec pump, however, can draw up to 1.5 amps. A D5 Vario can pull about 2 amps (sourced form some testing Martin did a few years back, could be wrong).
> 
> Personally, I don't think it's worth risking frying something on your board. If you've got a header that's labeled for pump use, chances are it's specced higher and you shouldn't have a problem using it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Hey guys.. old school acrylic guy (did mine like 3 years ago).. I have basic c47s that have the orings and nothing else.. is there something I can add to a c47 to make it more secure or do I need to buy all new fittings?
> 
> this is 12mm


Just buy New Orings and reconnect the tubing.... Not sure why you would buy all new C47s (As I am familiar with them, they aren't cheap)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> A 3.1 spec DDC running at 12v will only draw 1 amp from a circuit (found on the DDC datasheet). That's right in line with manufacturer's (notably MSI and Asus from various support threads I could find on the topic) max continuous current from a single header. A 3.2 spec pump, however, can draw up to 1.5 amps. A D5 Vario can pull about 2 amps (sourced form some testing Martin did a few years back, could be wrong).
> 
> *Personally, I don't think it's worth risking frying something on your board*. If you've got a header that's labeled for pump use, chances are it's specced higher and you shouldn't have a problem using it.


So Much This!!!

Benjiw can do as he pleases, but this is how I feel deep down. I would rather take the risk of frying an 8$ Fan controller than a part of my board if the pump does draw more wattage than expected.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I wouldn't use a normal header with a liang pump, but the z170 sabertooth comes with a dedicated header.


Double check with Asus. The manual has no mention of that header providing more than the usual 1 A of continuous current (12 W). It only talks about pump specific control options, which isn't exactly very different from fan control options either.

Some boards with pump headers are just steady 1 A/12 V headers with no control. Set and forget. Doesn't provide any more power.

Makes no sense to assume in such cases.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Do any of the pumps actually draw power from the header? I've only seen them having tacho and where applicable PWM wires going to the header, and power is straight from Molex.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Do any of the pumps actually draw power from the header? I've only seen them having tacho and where applicable PWM wires going to the header, and power is straight from Molex.


Depends on the pump, but yes most DDC/D5 pumps do not. AIO pumps are low power enough to where that would work, as will something like the EK SPC-60 pump.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Double check with Asus. The manual has no mention of that header providing more than the usual 1 A of continuous current (12 W). It only talks about pump specific control options, which isn't exactly very different from fan control options either.
> 
> Some boards with pump headers are just steady 1 A/12 V headers with no control. Set and forget. Doesn't provide any more power.
> 
> Makes no sense to assume in such cases.


Says this so there is control:



Will be deeply disappointed if it's unable to support a DDC or D5... Especially considering it's price tag for the motherboard.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Will be deeply disappointed if it's unable to support a DDC or D5... Especially considering its price tag for the motherboard.


D5 and DDC don't draw power from the m/b header. There are no even wires connected to power pins. So all that the m/b needs to do to support D5 or DDC is to provide standard tacho and PWM (if pump has it) functionality. Which of course it does. This is no different than any other header.


----------



## VSG

Yeah what he said above. It will support your pump in the same way any other fan header capable of DC or PWM control on any other motherboard will. These "pump headers" are ambiguous as I mentioned- some are identical to fan headers, some only provide steady 12 V (100% PWM duty cycle), some offer more power from the header than others but this is going to be useful only for those exceptionally rare cases where a pump has a fan connector for power as well and draws more than ~10 W or so.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quick question on DDC pumps, I read every now and then on here they can get hot if they're ran too fast and such, what do I need to know about owning 2 of these pumps? gf is doing a portal 2 build and want's to run dual loops in the Define S and D5's are a little bit too big so wondering if DDCs would be better suited.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would personally never run pumps off of board, I would run them off of molex or straight from PSU.
> 
> TCO


Same, I would rather wire the pump to run full speed directly connected to the PSU.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> Does anyone know if the new Primochill Revolver SX is just a rebrand of the old Revolver fittings?
> 
> I'm asking because I'm missing one fitting for my loop and I bought a 10 pack of black ones about half a year ago, which were the Revolver Fittings (without SX).
> The old ones seem to be EOL and the new ones have different named colors like "Satin Black". A lot of pictures of the new ones look like they're painted, where as the old ones look anodized to me.
> 
> Here is what I mean...
> 
> Old "Primochill Revolver Black":
> 
> 
> 
> New "Primochill Revolver SX Satin Black":
> 
> 
> 
> It would look bad if that one fitting is slightly different. Maybe one of you had both ones and can tell if they're the same?


Yes it is rebranded they should work together. It's just more colors now available


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah what he said above. It will support your pump in the same way any other fan header capable of DC or PWM control on any other motherboard will. These "pump headers" are ambiguous as I mentioned- some are identical to fan headers, some only provide steady 12 V (100% PWM duty cycle), some offer more power from the header than others but this is going to be useful only for those exceptionally rare cases where a pump has a fan connector for power as well and draws more than ~10 W or so.


I'll contact ASUS then to get more information, not sure why it offers a way to monitor and control the pump if it isn't actually up for the job.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Miss use of that gif tbh, as it wasn't a burn or the likes, he just agreed with you? Unless you see that as a monumental victory then I suggest you get out more?


More or less for me, just didn't think it would take so many people saying the same thing before you thought otherwise of your original plan.

TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> People are recommending that you dont connect a fully wired pump to a standard header,pump headers are fine if the wattage allows for it,that header could be designed for AIO's however. I have a few boards with pump headers and NONE of the manuals nor online resources tell me the max draw permitted. The x99 Strix I have here also has a HAMP header...also nothing in the manual.
> 
> If its just controlling speed then it obviously ok to use.


That's the case with mine also no information just says depends on the pump used. And agreed, my error.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> More or less for me, just didn't think it would take so many people saying the same thing before you thought otherwise of your original plan.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Many people tell me to run straight distilled or de-ionized water and I've had algae growth, just because people say the same thing doesn't automatically make it correct. Loads of people in your country think Trump is the better choice for example.
> 
> I've contacted ASUS so I'll wait for a reply, you know, just to make sure, you all might be indeed correct but I'm not running the pumps at max so running it at 12v isn't an option, I'm Sorry you don't understand that TCO but my gf doesn't want 2x DDC pumps at full whack 24/7.
Click to expand...

I'd rather elect someone who doesn't have a history of... well let's just leave it at that. I don't wish to get into that mess of Bollo-tics. Just remember there are really only two choices and alot of people are sick of one of them. I think I will end on that note of fairness, since it applies to both. Or does it?









Algae growth can happen with anything tbh. But Distilled is generally the cheaper better way to go imho. Ions are generated via electrical generation, so not even De-Ionized can avoid Ion molecularization.

If she doesn't want Full whack







, then maybe a fan controller is the way to go. You can get a PWM controller to connect to her CPU header (







) and run the pumps off the controller.

ModMyToys has one for ~$13 on Performance's site

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html

With 2 pumps connected, you have 4 headers to connect to should you wish to modulate case fans away from the board.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'd rather elect someone who doesn't have a history of... well let's just leave it at that. I don't wish to get into that mess of Bollo-tics. Just remember there are really only two choices and alot of people are sick of one of them. I think I will end on that note of fairness, since it applies to both. Or does it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Algae growth can happen with anything tbh. But Distilled is generally the cheaper better way to go imho. Ions are generated via electrical generation, so not even De-Ionized can avoid Ion molecularization.
> 
> If she doesn't want Full whack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , then maybe a fan controller is the way to go. You can get a PWM controller to connect to her CPU header (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and run the pumps off the controller.
> 
> ModMyMods has one for ~$13 on Performance's site
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html
> 
> With 2 pumps connected, you have 4 headers to connect to should you wish to modulate case fans away from the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There is no drive bay for the fan controller I have, there will be no room at the back due to tubing so that's why I want to run it through the header well, for speed control. The case is a Define S Ceadder.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You don't really have to have one except maybe for quietness or multiple pumps o
> I'd rather elect someone who doesn't have a history of... well let's just leave it at that. I don't wish to get into that mess of Bollo-tics. Just remember there are really only two choices and alot of people are sick of one of them. I think I will end on that note of fairness, since it applies to both. Or does it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Algae growth can happen with anything tbh. But Distilled is generally the cheaper better way to go imho. Ions are generated via electrical generation, so not even De-Ionized can avoid Ion molecularization.*
> 
> If she doesn't want Full whack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , then maybe a fan controller is the way to go. You can get a PWM controller to connect to her CPU header (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and run the pumps off the controller.
> 
> ModMyMods has one for ~$13 on Performance's site
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html
> 
> With 2 pumps connected, you have 4 headers to connect to should you wish to modulate case fans away from the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry but no. The nonsense of no biocide nor anti corro that has sprung up is utter BS,most of which came from one user trying to be clever with the rest jumping on board. It is not nor ever have been good practice to run straight distilled. The ion absorption rate is greatly accelerated using straight distilled/DI water,by its very nature,they will strip ions from whatever it touches to make up for the deficit. DI water being the _worst_ offender btw...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'd rather elect someone who doesn't have a history of... well let's just leave it at that. I don't wish to get into that mess of Bollo-tics. Just remember there are really only two choices and alot of people are sick of one of them. I think I will end on that note of fairness, since it applies to both. Or does it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Algae growth can happen with anything tbh. But Distilled is generally the cheaper better way to go imho. Ions are generated via electrical generation, so not even De-Ionized can avoid Ion molecularization.
> 
> If she doesn't want Full whack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , then maybe a fan controller is the way to go. You can get a PWM controller to connect to her CPU header (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and run the pumps off the controller.
> 
> ModMyMods has one for ~$13 on Performance's site
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html
> 
> With 2 pumps connected, you have 4 headers to connect to should you wish to modulate case fans away from the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There is no drive bay for the fan controller I have, there will be no room at the back due to tubing so that's why I want to run it through the header well, for speed control. The case is a Define S Ceadder.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry but no. The nonsense of no biocide nor anti corro that has sprung up is utter BS,most of which came from one user trying to be clever with the rest jumping on board. It is not nor ever have been good practice to run straight distilled. The ion absorption rate is greatly accelerated using straight distilled/DI water,by its very nature,they will strip ions from whatever it touches to make up for the deficit. DI water being the _worst_ offender btw...


Yeah, wish we had distilled in barrels in asda that would make life easier but most of the distilled I've seen is majorly overpriced.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'd rather elect someone who doesn't have a history of... well let's just leave it at that. I don't wish to get into that mess of Bollo-tics. Just remember there are really only two choices and alot of people are sick of one of them. I think I will end on that note of fairness, since it applies to both. Or does it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Algae growth can happen with anything tbh. But Distilled is generally the cheaper better way to go imho. Ions are generated via electrical generation, so not even De-Ionized can avoid Ion molecularization.
> 
> If she doesn't want Full whack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , then maybe a fan controller is the way to go. You can get a PWM controller to connect to her CPU header (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and run the pumps off the controller.
> 
> ModMyMods has one for ~$13 on Performance's site
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html
> 
> With 2 pumps connected, you have 4 headers to connect to should you wish to modulate case fans away from the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no drive bay for the fan controller I have, there will be no room at the back due to tubing so that's why I want to run it through the header well, for speed control. The case is a Define S Ceadder.
Click to expand...

I understand. But I'm reasonably sure if you can fit 2.5" drives behind the front tray you can fit one of these behind it w/o issue.



This isn't the one that is available on Performance but it's the only image I could get to work here. The one that you can get via performance, is SATA powered and would work quite well powering multiple pumps. CPU header is only for Modulation signal.









Oh an Mate, AquaTuning carries them as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I understand. But I'm reasonably sure if you can fit 2.5" drives behind the front tray you can fit one of these behind it w/o issue.
> 
> 
> 
> This isn't the one that is available on Performance but it's the only image I could get to work here. The one that you can get via performance, is SATA powered and would work quite well powering multiple pumps. CPU header is only for Modulation signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No point in using one of those with a motherboard with 10 or so headers on it and a dedicated pump controller. I have one of those but its for a little side project I have going on with a massive phobya 1080 rad that needs 9 fan headers lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> There is no drive bay for the fan controller I have, there will be no room at the back due to tubing so that's why I want to run it through the header well, for speed control. The case is a Define S Ceadder.
> Yeah, wish we had distilled in barrels in asda that would make life easier but most of the distilled I've seen is majorly overpriced.


DI water is £3.50 for 5ltrs from Halfords.....I know because I use it myself..


----------



## emsj86

Maybe it's just me but sometime I feel like we (and this may not apply to all) make water cooling more complicated than it really has to be. Just saying is all


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I understand. But I'm reasonably sure if you can fit 2.5" drives behind the front tray you can fit one of these behind it w/o issue.
> 
> 
> 
> This isn't the one that is available on Performance but it's the only image I could get to work here. The one that you can get via performance, is SATA powered and would work quite well powering multiple pumps. CPU header is only for Modulation signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *a dedicated pump controller.*
Click to expand...

And two pumps to argue for it.









I get it. But for me, if I can keep cables to a minimum, it really makes a build sing.









I dunno why but I should know by now that you're Across tha Pond in the UK.
















~Ceadder


----------



## prznar1

Guys, what can cause the corrosion? I have copper blocks, brass fittings and copper/brass radiator. Also plugs in my res are also copper.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, what can cause the corrosion? I have copper blocks, brass fittings and copper/brass radiator. Also plugs in my res are also copper.


Some pictures would help. It's a picture gallery, after all (or is supposed to be, anyway).


----------



## ruffhi

I thought I posted this before ... forum must have eaten it.

I am running a loop with mainly soft tubing. It has monsoon fittings, including the Monsoon Silver Bullet Antimicrobial Plug. My liquid is clear, colorless, plain-old distilled water.

Is this ok? Should I be running this with additives? If so, what?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I thought I posted this before ... forum must have eaten it.
> 
> I am running a loop with mainly soft tubing. It has monsoon fittings, including the Monsoon Silver Bullet Antimicrobial Plug. My liquid is clear, colorless, plain-old distilled water.
> 
> Is this ok? Should I be running this with additives? If so, what?


It will be fine, you should probably change the water more frequently though. I would change it every 4-6 months myself.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Are all your blocks copper?


----------



## ruffhi

CPU block is copper. No GPU block (at present).


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You don't really have to have one except maybe for quietness or multiple pumps o
> I'd rather elect someone who doesn't have a history of... well let's just leave it at that. I don't wish to get into that mess of Bollo-tics. Just remember there are really only two choices and alot of people are sick of one of them. I think I will end on that note of fairness, since it applies to both. Or does it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Algae growth can happen with anything tbh. But Distilled is generally the cheaper better way to go imho. Ions are generated via electrical generation, so not even De-Ionized can avoid Ion molecularization.*
> 
> If she doesn't want Full whack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , then maybe a fan controller is the way to go. You can get a PWM controller to connect to her CPU header (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and run the pumps off the controller.
> 
> ModMyMods has one for ~$13 on Performance's site
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html
> 
> With 2 pumps connected, you have 4 headers to connect to should you wish to modulate case fans away from the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry but no. The nonsense of no biocide nor anti corro that has sprung up is utter BS,most of which came from one user trying to be clever with the rest jumping on board. It is not nor ever have been good practice to run straight distilled. The ion absorption rate is greatly accelerated using straight distilled/DI water,by its very nature,they will strip ions from whatever it touches to make up for the deficit. DI water being the _worst_ offender btw...
Click to expand...

B NEG, I have the utmost respect for your advise.
As my Dad used to say, you don't beat around the bush, lol.









I have changed out my coolant, from my previous usage of Mayhems Pastel White, and then EK Ekoolant Blue, to Dazmode(Fesser)Protector. (Using either Primochill Advanced LRT, or my massive stock of St Gobain Durelene tubing) Yeah, I know, but no hard tubing for me yet, lol.

But, I am concerned about Dazmodes (Fesser) Protector screwing up the nickel in my new, unused, EK blocks. (EK Supremacy Nickel CPU Block, and EK 980Ti KPE Nickel block.)
http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/17160#post_25474331
So, what would you advise I should use for a clear, but protective coolant now?
Other than the blue staining, which is normal for any colored coolant imo, I was rather pleased with the EK Ekoolant.
Perhaps the clear version would be best for me.
Thanks for any advise you may have.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> CPU block is copper. No GPU block (at present).


I would add some biocide, anti corrosion inhibitor, or combo of some sort with these two.

If your canadian - here's Dazmode Protector - https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/

if your american - here's Mayhem - http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-clear.html


----------



## VeritronX

Just for clarity, EK Ekoolant EVO Clear Premix is a good choice yes? I'm thinking about ordering some along with some ZMT tubing later today.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> I would add some biocide, anti corrosion inhibitor, or combo of some sort with these two.
> 
> If your canadian - here's Dazmode Protector - https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/
> if your american - here's Mayhem - http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-clear.html


Thanks for the info. I am neither Canadian or American. But I live in the US so I will try one of the US based PC stores.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

^ Correct me if I am wrong, but you did say you have a silver anti-microbial plug? That should be enough without biocide...yea?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> ^ Correct me if I am wrong, but you did say you have a silver anti-microbial plug? That should be enough without biocide...yea?


Silver is an outdated and not particularly effective biocide,the monsoon plugs compound the problem with low surface area. Overall,a quality biocide/anti corro is superior.
I recommend Sentinel products used for domestic heating systems.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Silver is an outdated and not particularly effective biocide,the monsoon plugs compound the problem with low surface area. Overall,a quality biocide/anti corro is superior.
> I recommend Sentinel products used for domestic heating systems.


Don't wanna nag... but any possibility you've seen my pm b-negative?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Silver is an outdated and not particularly effective biocide,the monsoon plugs compound the problem with low surface area. Overall,a quality biocide/anti corro is superior.
> I recommend Sentinel products used for domestic heating systems.


Cool, thanks. I have a coil in mine. Lets see how she runs with that


----------



## bluedevil

Made up my test bench!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Don't wanna nag... but any possibility you've seen my pm b-negative?


Lemme check,I get a lot so it probably slipped by...


----------



## Questors

250 or 400 ml reservoir?

 

I know the pump is too close, it's getting moved. Just one of those things you wonder what you were thinking when you did.


----------



## sub0seals

Absolutely beautiful build man,I love the color scheme and choice of lighting is just spot on. Cudos to you for a magnificent build!


----------



## sub0seals

Absolutely beautiful build man,I love the color scheme and choice of lighting is just spot on. Cudos to you for a magnificent build!


----------



## Streetdragon

Little question:
i just have to put this "http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/pumpen/d5-serie/d5-pumpen/10620/alphacool-vpp655-single-edition" in this "http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/ausgleichsbehaelter/roehrenbehaelter/60mm-l/19435/alphacool-eisbecher-d5-250mm-plexi-ausgleichsbehaelter?c=19677" and its ready to go or?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Little question:
> i just have to put this "http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/pumpen/d5-serie/d5-pumpen/10620/alphacool-vpp655-single-edition" in this "http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/ausgleichsbehaelter/roehrenbehaelter/60mm-l/19435/alphacool-eisbecher-d5-250mm-plexi-ausgleichsbehaelter?c=19677" and its ready to go or?


That is indeed a pump & motor and a reservoir with pump top. As long as you have the proper seals to put in place, when assembled, it is good to go.


----------



## catbuster

@ Questors 400 for sure


----------



## Streetdragon

So if i look at the top of the pump: the water goes in the hole on the middle and goes out of the sides?


----------



## ruffhi

yep. The pump spins and throws the water towards the outside of the 'circle' (centripetal force). Note that you want to feed your inlet using gravity ... so don't try and 'suck' the water up into the pump.


----------



## Leonko

del


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Algae growth can happen with anything tbh. But Distilled is generally the cheaper better way to go imho. Ions are generated via electrical generation, so not even De-Ionized can avoid Ion molecularization.*
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry but no. The nonsense of no biocide nor anti corro that has sprung up is utter BS,most of which came from one user trying to be clever with the rest jumping on board. It is not nor ever have been good practice to run straight distilled. The ion absorption rate is greatly accelerated using straight distilled/DI water,by its very nature,they will strip ions from whatever it touches to make up for the deficit. DI water being the _worst_ offender btw...
Click to expand...

What part of that was false? You even corroborated my statement to some degree with... "DI water being the _worst_ offender btw...".









I tend to defer to your knowledge as you've been a lot more active in this community than I have and you've got cooler/evap experience atop that where my knowledge is limited to Electrical systems and water cooling Enthusiast.









Not calling you out my friend. Just wondering where my wires got crossed. I am not at all infallible and I'm man enough to learn from the big boys.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 250 or 400 ml reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> I know the pump is too close, it's getting moved. Just one of those things you wonder what you were thinking when you did.


Is that SM8 case + Pedestal or SMA8?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What part of that was false? You even corroborated my statement to some degree with... "DI water being the _worst_ offender btw...".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to defer to your knowledge as you've been a lot more active in this community than I have and you've got cooler/evap experience atop that where my knowledge is limited to Electrical systems and water cooling Enthusiast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not calling you out my friend. Just wondering where my wires got crossed. I am not at all infallible and I'm man enough to learn from the big boys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Im just erked by the foolish recommendations of no additives which overspilled into my reply to you,sorry.....

When water is Deionised,it becomes an aggressive solvent,it will attack pretty much everything to some degree. By adding an anti corro you are not only protecting your loop ,you are also 'dosing' the DI into a less/non aggressive state by replacing ion's that were removed in the initial process.

Copper is much more affected by DI than Nickel too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay.

I tend not to use additives. But 8 also change distilled coolant bi annually at most if not quarterly.

Aslo run Monsoon fittings, so it's pretty well protected. I just recommend distilled over DI.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> I tend not to use additives. But 8 also change distilled coolant bi annually at most if not quarterly.
> 
> *Aslo run Monsoon fittings, so it's pretty well protected.* I just recommend distilled over DI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Against what? There is no protection beyond the limited (im assuming silver plated) bio protection from the fittings. You have no corrosion protection whatsoever.
It is your loop and I have no right to tell you how to run it but I feel you may be missing half the picture.

My SR2 ran for 4 years,24-7,with nothing more than biocide and anti corro,no fluid changes and pristine blocks. For me,its a nobrainer.


----------



## VSG

Distilled over DI also doesn't matter once you have opened the bottle. I use a fancy DI instrument at my lab and within minutes of the water coming out, the resistivity changes by a couple of orders of magnitude.

On another topic, new PPCs dicscount codes:
Quote:


> Labor Day is the time to honor every hard-working man and woman out there, the backbone of our whole country, the good 'ol USA. Let us all enjoy some time off with family and friends. We have new arrivals coming every day including many new items that are now in stock! Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend over $50 get 10% off: "LABOR16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 30th through September 6th 2016. One coupon per order please.)


Pretty massive discount this one.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Is that SM8 case + Pedestal or SMA8?


It is the Merlin ST10 with two pedestals. Bottom pedestal has two 480s and the next pedestal has two 360s.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 250 or 400 ml reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> I know the pump is too close, it's getting moved. Just one of those things you wonder what you were thinking when you did.


This reminds me of the hot dog and a hallway joke.







All jokes aside.. Man you gotta get something in here take take up some room! Or move some rads from below to the top and bottom and mount the res/pumps to the side wall.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Labor Day is the time to honor every hard-working man and woman out there, the backbone of our whole country, the good 'ol USA. Let us all enjoy some time off with family and friends. We have new arrivals coming every day including many new items that are now in stock! Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend over $50 get 10% off: "LABOR16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 30th through September 6th 2016. One coupon per order please.)
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty massive discount this one.
Click to expand...

Looks like the time has finally come. I've been ordering parts over the past few days, now it's time to grab the watercooling parts. R.I.P. bank account, hahaha.

This what I have so far and the rest of the main components are in the mail.



What pattern would you use in this system for the custom cables? It is going to have a white and mayhem's berry blue scheme. The fittings will be bitspower white and coolant obviously berry blue.

Also how many concentrates should I get? 2 or 3?

Finally, my roommates do not understand at all why I am putting so much time, money and effort into this system. Does that mean I'm custom cabling and watercooling correctly?


----------



## fa5terba11

You'll love that case. It was really fun to build in it.


----------



## Radmanhs

also, what's your guys's favorite acrylic tubing? And if I get mayhms concentrate, do I still need to add biocide and anti-corrosive, I'm going to assume no.


----------



## emsj86

You don't have to add anything to mayhems concentrates Or pre mixes


----------



## Radmanhs

What is the difference between Hardwarelabs gts and L series rads? They have the same thickness


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> What is the difference between Hardwarelabs gts and L series rads? They have the same thickness


Different width and length. The L is their OEM series (Bitspower Leviathan is this, for example). More case compatibility, less tubes/fin stacks.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> also, what's your guys's favorite acrylic tubing? And if I get mayhms concentrate, do I still need to add biocide and anti-corrosive, I'm going to assume no.


If your talking Brand, I always go with Bitspower or Monsoon. Size wise Bigger cases = 16mm, Smaller cases = 12mm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> I tend not to use additives. But 8 also change distilled coolant bi annually at most if not quarterly.
> 
> *Aslo run Monsoon fittings, so it's pretty well protected.* I just recommend distilled over DI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Against what? There is no protection beyond the limited (im assuming silver plated) bio protection from the fittings. You have no corrosion protection whatsoever.
> It is your loop and I have no right to tell you how to run it but I feel you may be missing half the picture.
> 
> My SR2 ran for 4 years,24-7,with nothing more than biocide and anti corro,no fluid changes and pristine blocks. For me,its a nobrainer.
Click to expand...

Against Bioorganisms. Not worried about Corrosion as most of my blocks are Copper wherever possible. I do have a MB block that is Nickel, but that's because EK didn't make a Copper bottom MB block for the sig rig. I love me Copper, it's bootiful! Yes I have to worry about Rads, but Brass and Copper are reasonably close together in the ph chart(iirc) so am not too worried about that.







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Distilled over DI also doesn't matter once you have opened the bottle. I use a fancy DI instrument at my lab and within minutes of the water coming out, the resistivity changes by a couple of orders of magnitude.
> 
> On another topic, new PPCs dicscount codes:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Labor Day is the time to honor every hard-working man and woman out there, the backbone of our whole country, the good 'ol USA. Let us all enjoy some time off with family and friends. We have new arrivals coming every day including many new items that are now in stock! Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend over $50 get 10% off: "LABOR16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 30th through September 6th 2016. One coupon per order please.)
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty massive discount this one.
Click to expand...

Drat!







I just spent $209 on a Predator @ Performance! Used OCN55 so it's not a total loss but that %10 would've made the shipping free.









Oh well, guess I will have to remember the holidays better. Other than the major Holidays I forget some along the year.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> This reminds me of the hot dog and a hallway joke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All jokes aside.. Man you gotta get something in here take take up some room! Or move some rads from below to the top and bottom and mount the res/pumps to the side wall.


LMAO!









Let's see if I can pump it up and close things up a bit.


----------



## Questors

I prefer Bitspower acrylic tube with the 12mm OD fittings. I use them in conjunction with the variety of other Bitspower fittings, so the 12mm OD multi-link fittings look more natural, so to speak. I use XSPC fittings with flexible tube in the out-of-sight areas of a build with EK ZMT.

If you are going to use only fittings (rather than bend acrylic tube), then the OD isn't a factor...as far as compared to other fittings.

In the end the OD doesn't make much difference other than looks. You can't get more flow than the largest inside diameter allows, which is about 10mm for Bitspower and XSPC fittings.

You should build what satisfies your tastes.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 250 or 400 ml reservoir?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know the pump is too close, it's getting moved. Just one of those things you wonder what you were thinking when you did.


With that lovely, tall case, I'd certainly go with the 400mm reservoir.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Labor Day is the time to honor every hard-working man and woman out there, the backbone of our whole country, the good 'ol USA. Let us all enjoy some time off with family and friends. We have new arrivals coming every day including many new items that are now in stock! Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend over $50 get 10% off: "LABOR16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 30th through September 6th 2016. One coupon per order please.)
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty massive discount this one.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks like the time has finally come. I've been ordering parts over the past few days, now it's time to grab the watercooling parts. R.I.P. bank account, hahaha.
> 
> This what I have so far and the rest of the main components are in the mail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What pattern would you use in this system for the custom cables? It is going to have a white and mayhem's berry blue scheme. The fittings will be bitspower white and coolant obviously berry blue.
> 
> Also how many concentrates should I get? 2 or 3?
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, my roommates do not understand at all why I am putting so much time, money and effort into this system. Does that mean I'm custom cabling and watercooling correctly?
Click to expand...

Who cares what your roommates think?
Most of the people I know have no clue about building custom, watercooled systems and can't relate to what I'm doing either.
Doesn't matter, they're still my friends and family, to each their own, as they say!


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Labor Day is the time to honor every hard-working man and woman out there, the backbone of our whole country, the good 'ol USA. Let us all enjoy some time off with family and friends. We have new arrivals coming every day including many new items that are now in stock! Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend over $50 get 10% off: "LABOR16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 30th through September 6th 2016. One coupon per order please.)
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty massive discount this one.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks like the time has finally come. I've been ordering parts over the past few days, now it's time to grab the watercooling parts. R.I.P. bank account, hahaha.
> 
> This what I have so far and the rest of the main components are in the mail.
> 
> 
> 
> What pattern would you use in this system for the custom cables? It is going to have a white and mayhem's berry blue scheme. The fittings will be bitspower white and coolant obviously berry blue.
> 
> Also how many concentrates should I get? 2 or 3?
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, my roommates do not understand at all why I am putting so much time, money and effort into this system. Does that mean I'm custom cabling and watercooling correctly?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Who cares what your roommates think?
> Most of the people I know have no clue about building custom, watercooled systems and can't relate to what I'm doing either.
> Doesn't matter, they're still my friends and family, to each their own, as they say!
Click to expand...

Exactly







They don't know the satisfaction of making your own audio cables from scratch with no experience and only a couple youtube vids.

Now I get to experience that 50+ times over again >.> To the real point of this post. I threw this cable sleeving setup together, what do you guys think?

The mobo will be a maximus viii gene, but the only red that you will see is the solid red on the south chipset, since I'm going to use a monoblock. The color scheme is Mayhem's berry blue and white to fit the white inwin 303. Note: the +2 on the very left of the gpu is not needed, thus the reason the colors are off my 1 on the left.



Also, how much of each color do you think I'll need? I have 150 feet of wire, which I think should be good, at least for most of it.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Distilled over DI also doesn't matter once you have opened the bottle. I use a fancy DI instrument at my lab and within minutes of the water coming out, the resistivity changes by a couple of orders of magnitude.
> 
> On another topic, new PPCs dicscount codes:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Labor Day is the time to honor every hard-working man and woman out there, the backbone of our whole country, the good 'ol USA. Let us all enjoy some time off with family and friends. We have new arrivals coming every day including many new items that are now in stock! Why not do a little shopping for some new gear and check out the many new products on the site!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend over $50 get 10% off: "LABOR16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from August 30th through September 6th 2016. One coupon per order please.)
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty massive discount this one.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting that, I went ahead and ordered some stuff for the S8 build. Maybe I'll get it built before the end of the year


----------



## motor sw

Mentioning the additive discussion earlier, what anti corrosive agent are you experienced guys recommending?

I´m just running with destilled water and Mayhems biocide at the moment.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this made me laugh so hard !
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this made me laugh so hard !~
> 
> 
> 
> I can look back on it now and laugh about it, but at the time, I was so mad, I didn't know what to do. Once it dried, I
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm working on a very similar build. White CaseLabs TH10A, 2 loops (one with Mayhem's white the other with blue), white Bitspower fittings, etc. All my waterblocks are nickel and acrylic, and my cables/fans are a mixture of white and blue, so I bought the Mayhem's blueberry but also bought some other pastel blue/purple along with some blue dye so I can play around with the color mixtures to get the blue that matches the best. I might just end up adding blue dye to the Mayhem's white, but I need to finish my build first.
Click to expand...


----------



## Antipathy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Against what? There is no protection beyond the limited (im assuming silver plated) bio protection from the fittings. You have no corrosion protection whatsoever.
> It is your loop and I have no right to tell you how to run it but I feel you may be missing half the picture.
> 
> My SR2 ran for 4 years,24-7,with nothing more than biocide and anti corro,no fluid changes and pristine blocks. For me,its a nobrainer.


I've seen you mention the Sentinel products on a few occasions. What exactly are you using? Combination of X100 and X700? Thanks!


----------



## rolldog

Just want to confirm something. I've run my returns for both of my loops through the chassis divider in my CaseLabs TH10A and I have them tied into my fill ports, which will connect to the top of my reservoirs. Here is a picture of the front and a picture of the back. I drilled holes for the fill ports and for the returns, and as long as I seal up my fill ports with a stop fitting once I'm finished filling my loops, this shouldn't be a problem, should it?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What part of that was false? You even corroborated my statement to some degree with... "DI water being the _worst_ offender btw...".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to defer to your knowledge as you've been a lot more active in this community than I have and you've got cooler/evap experience atop that where my knowledge is limited to Electrical systems and water cooling Enthusiast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not calling you out my friend. Just wondering where my wires got crossed. I am not at all infallible and I'm man enough to learn from the big boys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im just erked by the foolish recommendations of no additives which overspilled into my reply to you,sorry.....
> 
> When water is Deionised,it becomes an aggressive solvent,it will attack pretty much everything to some degree. By adding an anti corro you are not only protecting your loop ,you are also 'dosing' the DI into a less/non aggressive state by replacing ion's that were removed in the initial process.
> 
> Copper is much more affected by DI than Nickel too.
Click to expand...

I've been running straight distilled with nothing in it for four years now. No loop maintenance. Nothing growing, plating on my blocks looks like it is brand new. It works for me, just my









-Jeffinslaw


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I've been running straight distilled with nothing in it for four years now. No loop maintenance. Nothing growing, plating on my blocks looks like it is brand new. It works for me, just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw










whatever works for you man, but I know I wouldn't run without inhibitors... I mean, why spend 2~3K on a custom loop to cheap out on $10 of fluid?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They don't know the satisfaction of making your own audio cables from scratch with no experience and only a couple youtube vids.
> 
> Now I get to experience that 50+ times over again >.> To the real point of this post. I threw this cable sleeving setup together, what do you guys think?
> 
> The mobo will be a maximus viii gene, but the only red that you will see is the solid red on the south chipset, since I'm going to use a monoblock. The color scheme is Mayhem's berry blue and white to fit the white inwin 303. Note: the +2 on the very left of the gpu is not needed, thus the reason the colors are off my 1 on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, how much of each color do you think I'll need? I have 150 feet of wire, which I think should be good, at least for most of it.


Very similar to what I did (and I'm not saying that in a bad way) so here is a picture to see how it will look somewhat. Speaking of which just order a bunch of fittings and a ram block to switch things up a little.


----------



## Streetdragon

https://www.caseking.de/super-flower-sleeve-cable-kit-schwarz-rot-zuad-603.html#related has someone informations, if they have a good quality? or post some other sleeved cables red/black for that power supply? like extensions or so


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I've been running straight distilled with nothing in it for four years now. No loop maintenance. Nothing growing, plating on my blocks looks like it is brand new. It works for me, just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whatever works for you man, but I know I wouldn't run without inhibitors... I mean, why spend 2~3K on a custom loop to cheap out on $10 of fluid?
Click to expand...

Distilled is a fifth of that cheapie out solution.









But it's not cheap in out if it works with zero issues. Why spend more than you have to if it works.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Personally I've been enjoying running EK EVO clear and adding Mayhems dyes if I want color. Zero issues so far, but I would run distilled with kill coil/biocide if I was running all copper components


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They don't know the satisfaction of making your own audio cables from scratch with no experience and only a couple youtube vids.
> 
> Now I get to experience that 50+ times over again >.> To the real point of this post. I threw this cable sleeving setup together, what do you guys think?
> 
> The mobo will be a maximus viii gene, but the only red that you will see is the solid red on the south chipset, since I'm going to use a monoblock. The color scheme is Mayhem's berry blue and white to fit the white inwin 303. Note: the +2 on the very left of the gpu is not needed, thus the reason the colors are off my 1 on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, how much of each color do you think I'll need? I have 150 feet of wire, which I think should be good, at least for most of it.
> 
> 
> 
> Very similar to what I did (and I'm not saying that in a bad way) so here is a picture to see how it will look somewhat. Speaking of which just order a bunch of fittings and a ram block to switch things up a little.
Click to expand...

Looks like great minds think alike. A ram black wouldn't look to bad, we'll see what I have left in my budget after I get everything else.


----------



## Jflisk

Mayhems Biocide extreme- one drop every 3 months and Straight distilled. I could not picture what my loop would look like without protection. Works great


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I've been running straight distilled with nothing in it for four years now. No loop maintenance. Nothing growing, plating on my blocks looks like it is brand new. It works for me, just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


And what rig would that be? The one started in 2014?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I've been running straight distilled with nothing in it for four years now. No loop maintenance. Nothing growing, plating on my blocks looks like it is brand new. It works for me, just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> And what rig would that be? The one started in 2014?
Click to expand...

Whoops, approaching three years I believe. Messed up the dates a little bit. Regardless, I've had success with straight up distilled water. Now don't read into things, I'm not suggesting other people do it since it seems taboo, I am simply stating what has worked for me









-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Rikuo




----------



## dela




----------



## D13mass

Hi guys! I have started to thinking about water cooling of my PC.
And I need advise.
My case is fractal define r4, I can put inside only two radiators 240mm, one with 45mm and one 60mm thinkness.
Is it enought for silent work and good low temperature?
Because a few guys recommended my buy Mo-ra3.
I have not reference msi gtx980 ti and 6700k. Now on cpu workes noctua tower and temperature<=50 under load, the same temperature actual and for gpu, I have corsair h55 + kraken on my 980ti.
Thank you for answer.


----------



## GTRtank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Hi guys! I have started to thinking about water cooling of my PC.
> And I need advise.
> My case is fractal define r4, I can put inside only two radiators 240mm, one with 45mm and one 60mm thinkness.
> Is it enought for silent work and good low temperature?
> Because a few guys recommended my buy Mo-ra3.
> I have not reference msi gtx980 ti and 6700k. Now on cpu workes noctua tower and temperature<=50 under load, the same temperature actual and for gpu, I have corsair h55 + kraken on my 980ti.
> Thank you for answer.


I think that would be ample cooling for those components, and quiet. I have a 40mm 360 and 54mm 280, and my GPU under full load is in the high 30's. I am very pleased with it, and you will see better temps than what your are getting now. Not that your current temps are bad by any means.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTRtank*
> 
> I think that would be ample cooling for those components, and quiet. I have a 40mm 360 and 54mm 280, and my GPU under full load is in the high 30's. I am very pleased with it, and you will see better temps than what your are getting now. Not that your current temps are bad by any means.


Thanks probably I just will stop on two 240mm and it will be enough. For winter I can buy one 360mm and put it on balcony (environment temperature there will be +5 degrees







, cold winter)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Hi guys! I have started to thinking about water cooling of my PC.
> And I need advise.
> My case is fractal define r4, I can put inside only two radiators 240mm, one with 45mm and one 60mm thinkness.
> Is it enought for silent work and good low temperature?
> Because a few guys recommended my buy Mo-ra3.
> I have not reference msi gtx980 ti and 6700k. Now on cpu workes noctua tower and temperature<=50 under load, the same temperature actual and for gpu, I have corsair h55 + kraken on my 980ti.
> Thank you for answer.


Who recommended a MORA? I want to abuse their stupidity.


----------



## Maxxamillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dela*


Do you have pictures of the entire build? I have an S8 and would like to see your tube routing.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Who recommended a MORA? I want to abuse their stupidity.


A few guys from russian overcklockers forum


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> A few guys from russian overcklockers forum


If you can fit two 240 mm rads as you mentioned, that alone will do a lot. No need for a MORA, it will just be a complication. The 6700k isn't a very demanding entity to begin with, and the 980Ti won't net any real improvement if you keep it at, say, 35-40 °C vs 55-60 °C.


----------



## Vittoro




----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

Does anyone know where I could find an "Internal" power cord to install a power supply in a case?

Cheers,


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Does anyone know where I could find an "Internal" power cord to install a power supply in a case?
> 
> Cheers,


I believe performance of sells them. And if in correct you can even have them sleeved by them as well now


----------



## Dortheleus

Thanks


----------



## dela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> Do you have pictures of the entire build? I have an S8 and would like to see your tube routing.






There are a couple more pictures if you click on my rig.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> It's certainly doable, but the fit is a little tight for my liking. I'm using Barrow's 3/8" ID 5/8" OD fittings and the threads of the compression collar get caught on the ZMT, making it hard to tighten them.


Got my Barrow fittings(looking awesome) Realy TIGGGGHHHTTT with ZMT, but ok!. With WD40 it should work to tight them up..I hope


----------



## wholeeo

It's so frustrating waiting on water cooling parts. I got my two rads in, gpu block installed, now all I'm waiting for is the tubing and cpu block to arrive. With that said I put myself in quite a dilemma. I have no idea how I am going to mount my EK-XRES 100 DDC in my NZXT Manta ITX case nor how I'm going to route the tubing.









Edit: Well found the solution to my XRES problem. Only thing is now I got to drive an hour away to get it so that I can finish up my build this weekend.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/449288/DDC_Pump_Holder


----------



## Radmanhs

Does the ppc labor day code continue to next week? I assume it does because it isn't even labor day yet


----------



## hiarc

The PPCs coupon lasts until Sept 6th.


----------



## Ithanul

Hmmm, good, I think I still need to nab a few more things for my two rebuilds.


----------



## andre02

Hi all !!
What performance difference do you think it will be between:
- Hardware Labs Nemesis 360GTX (54 mm height) - Link for reference and
- Hardware Labs Nemesis 360 GTS (~30mm height) - Link for reference

considering the same setup, everything else exactly the same, for 1 high end cpu (4-10cores) + 1 high end gpu, same good quality pump, same reservoir,etc...and assuming same fans at around 1300-1500 rpm maximum, (low rpm fans) ... ?

P.S. First one is almost double the size of the first one in height(thickness).

Thank you for the answers.


----------



## Streetdragon

moved in my new Core X9 with a new rad(ut60 480) zmt tube and nice Barrow fittings. DAMN that looks hot. If i could do a better cable managment it would be better..But hey^^ im a noob xD


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Hi all !!
> What performance difference do you think it will be between:
> - Hardware Labs Nemesis 360GTX (54 mm height) - Link for reference and
> - Hardware Labs Nemesis 360 GTS (~30mm height) - Link for reference
> 
> considering the same setup, everything else exactly the same, for 1 high end cpu (4-10cores) + 1 high end gpu, same good quality pump, same reservoir,etc...and assuming same fans at around 1300-1500 rpm maximum, (low rpm fans) ... ?
> 
> P.S. First one is almost double the size of the first one in height(thickness).
> 
> Thank you for the answers.


You're always going to do better with a thicker rad over a thinner rad, *as long as you can keep the airflow thru them equal*.

The catch 22 is that with the thicker rad, that usually means running push-pull fans, where you could get by just fine with one set on the thinner rad.

Adding to the problem, is that the thicker rad already takes up the space of one set of fans more than the thinner rad did.

Essentially, to efficiently use 25mm more rad thickness, you need 50mm more space.

If you have the room, go with the thicker rad in push-pull, if not, go with what looks best to you, as it isn't going to be much different cooling wise, though the thicker rad, with one set of fans at the speed you mention, will edge out the thinner rad.

Darlene


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> You'll love that case. It was really fun to build in it.


InWin 303 is great







I have it myself with custom loop inside


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Hi all !!
> What performance difference do you think it will be between:
> - Hardware Labs Nemesis 360GTX (54 mm height) - Link for reference and
> - Hardware Labs Nemesis 360 GTS (~30mm height) - Link for reference
> 
> considering the same setup, everything else exactly the same, for 1 high end cpu (4-10cores) + 1 high end gpu, same good quality pump, same reservoir,etc...and assuming same fans at around 1300-1500 rpm maximum, (low rpm fans) ... ?
> 
> P.S. First one is almost double the size of the first one in height(thickness).
> 
> Thank you for the answers.


From the roundups I have seen, you will get less than 10% increase in cooling capacity going from a 30mm to a 60mm thick radiator. I will try to find the links. Surface area has a much greater effect on cooling compared to thickness. Like IT Diva said, if you have the room and it will look good, go with the thicker one. If not, go with the thin one. I'm using the thinner GTS style and I think they work great.

EDIT: *Here is the link to the roundup I remember seeing.*


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Hi all !!
> What performance difference do you think it will be between:
> - Hardware Labs Nemesis 360GTX (54 mm height) - Link for reference and
> - Hardware Labs Nemesis 360 GTS (~30mm height) - Link for reference
> 
> considering the same setup, everything else exactly the same, for 1 high end cpu (4-10cores) + 1 high end gpu, same good quality pump, same reservoir,etc...and assuming same fans at around 1300-1500 rpm maximum, (low rpm fans) ... ?
> 
> P.S. First one is almost double the size of the first one in height(thickness).
> 
> Thank you for the answers.


You can compare the performance of both of those rads here. http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/


----------



## prznar1

Cool test. Im still positive about magicool g2 ive bought. Probably still best pp ratio.


----------



## emsj86

Was wondering if I could use thermal paste or maybe something I could pick up local. I have bits power ram blocks that I bought used. I bought the thermal pad off performance pc website but it came as only one pad basically enough for one side of a dimm. (Picture on the website made it seem like it was the complete set) anyways now I need to order 8 more but with Monday being Labor Day I can't get anything shipped out fast enough. Could I use thermal paste or another alternative. If not I'm ordering them anyways. Seems kinda crazy with shipping that 8 thermal pads for 4 ram would be 42 dollars with shipping when brand new the whole entire set is 100. Oh well my fault should have bought it new lesson learned.


----------



## orvils

So I am getting tired of all the red that I have in my build.
Would like to change it to something else. I will have to paint VRM heatsink and RAM heatspreaders too and change the sleeving on the wires.
Any suggestions? Was thinking about painting heatsinks in black so they would be neutral.
As for fluid I am open for suggestions (my gf suggested purple but I am not sure on that







)


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> So I am getting tired of all the red that I have in my build.
> Would like to change it to something else. I will have to paint VRM heatsink and RAM heatspreaders too and change the sleeving on the wires.
> Any suggestions? Was thinking about painting heatsinks in black so they would be neutral.
> As for fluid I am open for suggestions (my gf suggested purple but I am not sure on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


purple actually looks good. A nice blue does as well. Have you thought of going clear than using rgb strips by say daz mod. If you do it right you can pretty much make the build however you feel that day. One week blue another week yellow


----------



## orvils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> purple actually looks good. A nice blue does as well. Have you thought of going clear than using rgb strips by say daz mod. If you do it right you can pretty much make the build however you feel that day. One week blue another week yellow


Hmm, might have to reconsider purple. I was leaning towards pastels or clear. I don't particularly like RGB. I had RGB strips in my build but tore them out in favor of white led strips because white that is produced by them was too blueish.


----------



## DONGOTTI




----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orvils*
> 
> So I am getting tired of all the red that I have in my build.
> Would like to change it to something else. I will have to paint VRM heatsink and RAM heatspreaders too and change the sleeving on the wires.
> Any suggestions? Was thinking about painting heatsinks in black so they would be neutral.
> As for fluid I am open for suggestions (my gf suggested purple but I am not sure on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*


What Tube Sizes are these 16mm? or 14mm?


----------



## DONGOTTI

Mine is 16mm


----------



## Radnad

Both of those are 16mm.


----------



## Deedaz

What do you guys think, shorten the res or get a full window side panel? If I go with the full window I'll still want to mount the fans in the lower section for aesthetics, unless anyone has a better idea.


----------



## maybach123

you guys are making me really want to finish my setup.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> What do you guys think, shorten the res or get a full window side panel? If I go with the full window I'll still want to mount the fans in the lower section for aesthetics, unless anyone has a better idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd leave it just as it is . . .

I have both the XL window and the window/ventilated side panel for the PSU side of my S8. I like the look of the window / ventilated panel better, because having two rectangular visuals makes it look a bit longer and less boxy.

The XL window just makes the case look boxy instead of sleek.

I have a rad on the other side, so naturally a window / ventilated panel on the GPU side.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> What do you guys think, shorten the res or get a full window side panel? If I go with the full window I'll still want to mount the fans in the lower section for aesthetics, unless anyone has a better idea.


Don't touch that res, it's perfect imo!


----------



## apw63

Look like how I did mine


----------



## Deedaz

Thanks guys, I think I'll leave it as is for now, but I may go for the full window once I get it all built. I'd really like to just make the window on this panel larger, but I'm not sure if I can do a good enough job, especially for a caselabs. I do have a spare panel I could practice cutting on...


----------



## orvils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> What Tube Sizes are these 16mm? or 14mm?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Both of those are 16mm.


Actually mine are 14mm.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Was wondering if I could use thermal paste or maybe something I could pick up local. I have bits power ram blocks that I bought used. I bought the thermal pad off performance pc website but it came as only one pad basically enough for one side of a dimm. (Picture on the website made it seem like it was the complete set) anyways now I need to order 8 more but with Monday being Labor Day I can't get anything shipped out fast enough. Could I use thermal paste or another alternative. If not I'm ordering them anyways. Seems kinda crazy with shipping that 8 thermal pads for 4 ram would be 42 dollars with shipping when brand new the whole entire set is 100. Oh well my fault should have bought it new lesson learned.


Thermal pads fill space that paste or grease either can't fill or won't fill effectively. I tend to go the safe route with something like this...that is hard to measure properly with special instruments.

As an alternative, you could use this product if shipping is less and price equal less overall:

GP-Extreme Thermal Pad

PPCS has these as well. QuietPC site simply listed both the .5 mm and 1 mm pads together with all information. The pads are non-hardening and state a better thermal conductivity at 12 W/mk versus EKWB pads at 3.5 W/mK (+/-0.35) .

I also find similar products at PPCS result in varying end cost depending on how they are input to their product database; mostly with regard to shipping weight in the cart.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd leave it just as it is . . .
> 
> I have both the XL window and the window/ventilated side panel for the PSU side of my S8. I like the look of the window / ventilated panel better, because having two rectangular visuals makes it look a bit longer and less boxy.
> 
> The XL window just makes the case look boxy instead of sleek.
> 
> I have a rad on the other side, so naturally a window / ventilated panel on the GPU side.


That thing looks great


----------



## Trestles126

i asked this awhile back. I am currently building a caselabs bh4. i have the D5 ek pump mounted in front of my Mitx on the mother board tray. i am currently weighing a few options.

1. build a 120mm fan bay replacement resivoir right in front of it. but the decrease in air flow and the non uniform look from the front would bother me.

2. mount my ek 80MM x3 resivoir on the other side of the gpu. using the given clamps and mounting it to the bullet light bar .the resivior and the fill port would be at the highest point of the case and the inlet of the d5 would be below.

now here is my question. I want to keep all tubing runs to a minimum. i plan on using passthru ports to run tubes straight down then below the underside of the bullets tray. so the ekd5 would be supplied by a tube running straight down from the res under tray and straight back up. the res will be higher than the d5 but the tubing run will be below. i cant imagine this being a problem cause whenever ive filled a res in the past the coolant will fill up whatever is below the res (tubing runs components and so on)

i would rather not make a straight run across the case straight from the res to the pump as it will look bad.

the res will be mounted at the front by gpu and front fan.

here are some more build pics for fun

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...A139D2F7-882F-4974-874B-19D5FF4D95FB.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...DE878091-4833-4C04-885E-42EBC331EEFA.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...13C8DE6A-C95D-44A3-B0B9-84AD3A9A3B13.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...A307861B-32F4-48A0-8FD3-33025F077497.jpg.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> i asked this awhile back. I am currently building a caselabs bh4. i have the D5 ek pump mounted in front of my Mitx on the mother board tray. i am currently weighing a few options.
> 
> 1. build a 120mm fan bay replacement resivoir right in front of it. but the decrease in air flow and the non uniform look from the front would bother me.
> 
> 2. mount my ek 80MM x3 resivoir on the other side of the gpu. using the given clamps and mounting it to the bullet light bar .the resivior and the fill port would be at the highest point of the case and the inlet of the d5 would be below.
> 
> now here is my question. I want to keep all tubing runs to a minimum. i plan on using passthru ports to run tubes straight down then below the underside of the bullets tray. so the ekd5 would be supplied by a tube running straight down from the res under tray and straight back up. the res will be higher than the d5 but the tubing run will be below. i cant imagine this being a problem cause whenever ive filled a res in the past the coolant will fill up whatever is below the res (tubing runs components and so on)
> 
> i would rather not make a straight run across the case straight from the res to the pump as it will look bad.
> 
> the res will be mounted at the front by gpu and front fan.
> 
> here are some more build pics for fun
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...A139D2F7-882F-4974-874B-19D5FF4D95FB.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...DE878091-4833-4C04-885E-42EBC331EEFA.jpg.html
> 
> http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...13C8DE6A-C95D-44A3-B0B9-84AD3A9A3B13.jpg.html
> 
> [/URL][/SPOILER]
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2866140/]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2866140/[/URL][/QUOTE]
> 
> How about making a hole for the d5 below the reservoir and installing it there? You can decouple it and will look a lot more clean. It seems since you are using a mini-itx board that you would have space to make a hole for the pump there. It can even give a visual nice effect since you can illuminate that pump top and the reservoir from below.


----------



## Trestles126

It's just big enough that the pump top overhangs the mobo tray thought of that!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> It's just big enough that the pump top overhangs the mobo tray thought of that!


exactly, so make the hole in the MB tray equal to the outer diameter of the pump top...Thus clearance in height below the MB is not a problem anymore. The question is whether or not between the MB and the fron there is enough room for a circular cut.


----------



## Trestles126

thats what i meant the hole cut for the pump would be greater than the space i have between mobo and front of tray


----------



## Ceadderman

I would cut a hole larger than the diameter of the Res and mount the D5 below it. Thereby not sacrificing air flow and you can connect the two with a Male/Male fitting to keep things simple.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

But simple isn't fun! I oh so badly wanna keep the d5 in that empty void where she sits now.... Come on guys can't you give some reassurance! I mean it's a holiday in the states and I'm ???? beers deep!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> But simple isn't fun! I oh so badly wanna keep the d5 in that empty void where she sits now.... Come on guys can't you give some reassurance! I mean it's a holiday in the states and I'm ???? beers deep!


Why not just go with a PWM DDC (35X) and have enough room to actually have a couple options you can work with . . . .

I've always found the 35X to be a better option in tight spaces because of its much smaller footprint, and overall volume.

With a PWM version, you only need to run it fast enough to get a decent flow rate, so they stay quiet and have no over heating problems.

D.


----------



## emsj86

Looking for some help. I'm I stalling bits power inversely ram dimm blocks iv. Now I got them used so I don't have the manual. I checked online and saw videos but all were of ram sticks that had modules on both sides of ram stick. The reason I'm asking for help is my ram sticks are 4gb wth modules only on one side so when I installed the thermal pads the module is not making contact, so I used a thicker pad from the orginal heat sinks on the non module side to help with this problem. Has anyone installed these universal blocks maybe she'd some light on installing them. Thank you


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Looking for some help. I'm I stalling bits power inversely ram dimm blocks iv. Now I got them used so I don't have the manual. I checked online and saw videos but all were of ram sticks that had modules on both sides of ram stick. The reason I'm asking for help is my ram sticks are 4gb wth modules only on one side so when I installed the thermal pads the module is not making contact, so I used a thicker pad from the orginal heat sinks on the non module side to help with this problem. Has anyone installed these universal blocks maybe she'd some light on installing them. Thank you


Ran into the same issue with ek heatspreaders and used the stock pads on the side without the chips. Worked perfectly.


----------



## Stateless

Hi All.

I have a XSPC Dual Pump/Res, with 3 360 RADS, 2 GTX Titan X Pascal and I7-3930k CPU. On each of the pumps, I have a dial to increase/decrease the flow speed. It ranges from 1 low flow to 5 highest flow. For maximum cooling, ideally what speed should I have the pumps running at?

Thanks for any input.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Why not just go with a PWM DDC (35X) and have enough room to actually have a couple options you can work with . . . .
> 
> I've always found the 35X to be a better option in tight spaces because of its much smaller footprint, and overall volume.
> 
> With a PWM version, you only need to run it fast enough to get a decent flow rate, so they stay quiet and have no over heating problems.
> 
> D.


This.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Ran into the same issue with ek heatspreaders and used the stock pads on the side without the chips. Worked perfectly.


That's what I did on the one side worked well, but wasn't sure. Thanks for this. I'll now install the other 3 today.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Hi All.
> 
> I have a XSPC Dual Pump/Res, with 3 360 RADS, 2 GTX Titan X Pascal and I7-3930k CPU. On each of the pumps, I have a dial to increase/decrease the flow speed. It ranges from 1 low flow to 5 highest flow. For maximum cooling, ideally what speed should I have the pumps running at?
> 
> Thanks for any input.


t like to run my Dual D5 Varios @ setting 5, this has worked well for my setups for a few years now.

No issues with noise or vibration, I have my pumps mounted on foam pads.
You can experiment with the speeds, to see what works best for your build, of course.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Hi All.
> 
> I have a XSPC Dual Pump/Res, with 3 360 RADS, 2 GTX Titan X Pascal and I7-3930k CPU. On each of the pumps, I have a dial to increase/decrease the flow speed. It ranges from 1 low flow to 5 highest flow. For maximum cooling, ideally what speed should I have the pumps running at?
> 
> Thanks for any input.


I find that my single D5 vario has a sweet spot at setting 3 right around 3300RPM for good flow and quiet running.


----------



## Questors

I have seen reference to double-stacked radiators and fans around OCN recently. I am familiar with the radiator concept, but that idea was quashed by Martin's Liquid Lab.

I am also familiar with using old fan housings as shrouds, but actually double-stacking working fans...as in one atop the another? What is the point there? Or am I not understanding the meaning correctly?


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys,

I want to get more into watercooling but every time I think about it, I'm constantly reminded that my setup can leak.

Is there any way to make a 100% leak proof loop?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I have seen reference to double-stacked radiators and fans around OCN recently. I am familiar with the radiator concept, but that idea was quashed by Martin's Liquid Lab.
> 
> I am also familiar with using old fan housings as shrouds, but actually double-stacking working fans...as in one atop the another? What is the point there? Or am I not understanding the meaning correctly?


Two fans in series, have the ability to double pressure,most RL test indicate around 15-50% increase. A common 'trick' back in the day to increase performance.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Two fans in series, have the ability to double pressure,most RL test indicate around 15-50% increase. A common 'trick' back in the day to increase performance.


I see. Thank you.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I want to get more into watercooling but every time I think about it, *I'm constantly reminded that my setup can leak.
> *
> Is there any way to make a 100% leak proof loop?


how are you reminded by this? all loops should be tested before you fire up your pc for a few hours. if it hasnt leaked then it shouldnt leak later unless your moving the case or knocking the case around on the table its on or something. they shouldnt just leak.

using soft tube and compression fittings i have never had a leak in 7 years. i run 2gpus and 1 cpu with 4 rads, 1 pump and 1 res.

acrylic i have not used, but i get my caselabs s8 this week, will be using acrylic with this build.

also look up . aquacomputer dr drop
its a pressure tester, test your loop by adding air pressure. if the air pressure drops then you have a leak.

if you are handy with some basic tools, you can make your own dr drop.
check out B NEGATIVE's guide on how to make your own HERE


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> how are you reminded by this? all loops should be tested before you fire up your pc for a few hours. *if it hasnt leaked then it shouldnt leak later unless your moving the case or knocking the case around on the table its on or something. they shouldnt just leak.*
> 
> using soft tube and compression fittings i have never had a leak in 7 years. i run 2gpus and 1 cpu with 4 rads, 1 pump and 1 res.
> 
> acrylic i have not used, but i get my caselabs s8 this week, will be using acrylic with this build.
> 
> also look up aquacomputer dr drop.
> *its a pressure tester, test your loop by adding air pressure. if the air pressure drops then you have a leak.*


In general yes, but except that fitting failure can happen over time. Recently I have a 90 degree angle adapter develop a leak in a loop running for 2 years. It can happen depending on brand, quality and whether or not the fitting is under some sort of lateral pressure from the tubes position.

Yep, air pressure drop test should be much more common. Aquacomputer kit is nice but you can also accomplished the same with things like this:


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> In general yes, but except that fitting failure can happen over time. Recently I have a 90 degree angle adapter develop a leak in a loop running for 2 years. It can happen depending on brand, quality and whether or not the fitting is under some sort of lateral pressure from the tubes position.
> 
> Yep, air pressure drop test should be much more common. Aquacomputer kit is nice but you can also accomplished the same with things like this:


i already edited my comment with a link to b negatives guide.

i never used an adjustable fitting, back when i bought all my fittings i never used the adjustable angle/90's as i thought they may let go over time.
to be honest i have never heard of one letting go until you just said it.

reality is, once your loop is made and tested it should never leak. BUT anything can happen over time.
really there is no 100% perfect leak proof system for all of the loops life. but generally if you use quality gear, you shouldnt have any issues.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> how are you reminded by this? all loops should be tested before you fire up your pc for a few hours. if it hasnt leaked then it shouldnt leak later unless your moving the case or knocking the case around on the table its on or something. they shouldnt just leak.
> 
> using soft tube and compression fittings i have never had a leak in 7 years. i run 2gpus and 1 cpu with 4 rads, 1 pump and 1 res.
> 
> acrylic i have not used, but i get my caselabs s8 this week, will be using acrylic with this build.
> 
> also look up . aquacomputer dr drop
> its a pressure tester, test your loop by adding air pressure. if the air pressure drops then you have a leak.
> 
> if you are handy with some basic tools, you can make your own dr drop.
> check out B NEGATIVE's guide on how to make your own HERE


I hear horror stories of people's supposedly leak proof loops leaking. I hate taking risks around expensive stuff.

Thank you for the link


----------



## VeritronX

Is it normal to have issues with the 18w pwm ddcs from ek? mine was jumping all over the place speed wise for a bit then didn't start after the 2nd or 3rd bootup afterwards, was new and only had distilled water in it, lasted maybe two weeks. It's been sitting on my workbench for a while now. The one I got was the EK XRES 100 DDC 3.2 PWM Pump/Reservoir Combo.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Okay everyone. Let's talk about this.





I have been all over the internet trying to find more information about this block. Because APPARENTLY Zotac is shipping this thing out with a COPPER fin plate for the die, and an ALUMINUM block for the memory and phases.

WHAT IS GOING ON. WHAT YEAR IS IT.

This doesn't make sense to me. I really would like to snag this bad boy but good lord if they are mixing aluminum and copper in the same block this is just a recipe for disaster. The card will literally eat itself alive.

I would really love some insight on this product.

I have emailed Zotac and they told me they would have to ask one of their engineers to get me an exact answer.
I have also asked them about it on their Instagram.

It's a great deal. It's selling for $720 (in the US) and I'd say that's quite a bargain considering how much an Amp Extreme is, plus the cost of a block and backplate.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> but good lord if they are mixing aluminum and copper in the same block this is just a recipe for disaster. The card will literally eat itself alive.


From the pics you posted it looks as if the coolant will only run through the copper GPU section but not through any other metal sections????

Hard to tell but they may be relying on an aluminium 'heatsink' design which cools the VRM and memory section without any coolant traversing through those sections. It may be that the copper GPU plate indirectly cools the aluminium sections rather than the coolant itself.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> From the pics you posted it looks as if the coolant will only run through the copper GPU section but not through any other metal sections????
> 
> Hard to tell but they may be relying on an aluminium 'heatsink' design which cools the VRM and memory section without any coolant traversing through those sections. It may be that the copper GPU plate indirectly cools the aluminium sections rather than the coolant itself.


Isn't that how the Alphacool Nexxxos GPU blocks worked? The Nexxxos Core cools the GPU and the heat-spreader receives some cooling benefit by being in contact with the Core?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> From the pics you posted it looks as if the coolant will only run through the copper GPU section but not through any other metal sections????
> 
> Hard to tell but they may be relying on an aluminium 'heatsink' design which cools the VRM and memory section without any coolant traversing through those sections. It may be that the copper GPU plate indirectly cools the aluminium sections rather than the coolant itself.


The Alu cover is acting as a flow accelerator/director by sandwiching the fins,it looks to be in direct contact physically/electrically.


----------



## paskowitz

For the love of God I hope it doesn't say "PUSH THE LIMIT!" on the backplate.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For the love of God I hope it doesn't say "PUSH THE LIMIT!" on the backplate.


Lol!

Fortunately, it doesn't say: "ThermalFake"!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> From the pics you posted it looks as if the coolant will only run through the copper GPU section but not through any other metal sections????
> 
> Hard to tell but they may be relying on an aluminium 'heatsink' design which cools the VRM and memory section without any coolant traversing through those sections. It may be that the copper GPU plate indirectly cools the aluminium sections rather than the coolant itself.


I would very much like that to be the case!

Zotac emailed me back last night. This is what they had said:

"Hi John,

Our engineers sent an update saying the base is copper but the rest of the unit is aluminum like most water blocks.

Krell
ZOTAC Technical Support"

....
Most waterblocks? Are they talking about the back plate?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Alu cover is acting as a flow accelerator/director by sandwiching the fins,it looks to be in direct contact physically/electrically.


That's what I was assuming. Unfortunately. Why would they be mixing aluminum and copper in the same block though? How would their quality control tests result in?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Lol!
> 
> *Fortunately, it doesn't say: "ThermalFake"!*


My first thought reading the lifeisshort117's post! AHA! Thermalfake!









It may not say it, but...


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Alu cover is acting as a flow accelerator/director by sandwiching the fins,it looks to be in direct contact physically/electrically.


Hopefully it is not...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> My first thought reading the lifeisshort117's post! AHA! Thermalfake!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not say it, but...


I dont get it lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> but good lord if they are mixing aluminum and copper in the same block this is just a recipe for disaster. The card will literally eat itself alive.
> 
> 
> 
> From the pics you posted it looks as if the coolant will only run through the copper GPU section but not through any other metal sections????
> 
> Hard to tell but they may be relying on an aluminium 'heatsink' design which cools the VRM and memory section without any coolant traversing through those sections. It may be that the copper GPU plate indirectly cools the aluminium sections rather than the coolant itself.
Click to expand...

.

Coolant comes into contact with aluminum right out the gate. Then runs through the copper and back out through the aluminum and back out into the loop. We know this to be an inferior design that nothing good can come from in long term usage.

We Enthusiasts got ASUS to change from this design on their hardware offerings with similar designs not sure what Zotac was thinking other than saving money. :mellowssmi

~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> .
> 
> Coolant comes into contact with aluminum right out the gate. Then runs through the copper and back out through the aluminum and back out into the loop. We know this to be an inferior design that nothing good can come from in long term usage.
> 
> We Enthusiasts got ASUS to change from this design on their hardware offerings with similar designs not sure what Zotac was thinking other than saving money. :mellowssmi
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree with what you are seeing/saying 100%

So this was super weird reading this email I JUST got a second ago from Zotac, as I have been talking to them about it...

"John,

The water enclosure is cooper on the and it is surrounded by aluminum.
so the water never touches the aluminum.

Best regards,
Dan
Zotac USA"

That....doesn't make sense? Someone help decipher lol.

EDIT: are they saying the entire thing is copper? and that the "wrap around" backplate that they advertise is (obviously) aluminum?

EDIT 2: I emailed the guy a photo I edited with their break-away render, listing what is what and asking what the material is that I am wanting to know. Because I think they are a little confused.

Here is the photo I sent lol










(Sorry if I am seeming fanatic about this. It's just almost appalling to me that after all these years, a company would try to sell a product that'll doom their customers - especially when it's been very well established this aluminum business is a big no-no.)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Aluminium is fine in an all Aluminium loop. Mixing metals like that is a big no no tho.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Aluminium is fine in an all Aluminium loop. Mixing metals like that is a big no no tho.


Agreed! That being said, very few people have components that are all aluminum. I personally haven't seen a single person running full aluminum. Anyway, I can't believe even that won't matter as they are mixing metals within the same block.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looking at that render, there's simply no way that Rep is correct. Aluminum comes into direct contact with coolant. So they can peddle that doodoo to the uninformed masses. I will let anyone I build for not to get that card.









~Ceadder


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Lol!
> 
> Fortunately, it doesn't say: "ThermalFake"!


NO, it might read ThermalFlake though!


----------



## rolldog

Well, after what seemed like an eternity, building it, tearing it down, and rebuilding it, my rig is finally leak testing. I still have some cosmetic things to do, but it's running! I bought some Mayhem's White and Mayhem's Blue that I was going to use in both loops, but I'm kinda digging the clean look of the white lights and distilled water. What do you think?







[/URL]


----------



## Kyouki

Cant remember If I posted some of my finished pictures in here or not! I am sure there is always room for some water cooling pr0n though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Use Pr0n instead of Po... Google search will catalogue our posts for that one word search term.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## flipmatthew

My sig rig! Running both radiators as intakes - fans set to 5v on the fan controller.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I dont get it lol


You posted your concerns.

DerComissar said, "Fortunately, it doesn't say: "ThermalFake"!

Thermalfake, Thermalsteal, B Negatives forum avatar meme of a copy room stating, "Thermaltake R&D" (or something to that effect).

This stems from a situation where CaseLabs was working with Thermaltake and they took advantage of CaseLabs by copying CLs computer chassis and releasing copies of their own so close it even had the same ventilation holes in the panels. Then came the fans that looked exactly like Corsairs, the CPU blocks that are an exactly copy of Swiftech and other products.

After this, Thermaltake released some radiators and various blocks with aluminum and copper in the same flow path an/or full aluminum rads without making it a point to the consumer that mixing certain metals is a bad thing.

When I looked at your post and the idea of copper and aluminum in the flow path, the term _Thermalfake_ immediately came to mind.

=============================================================================================
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Well, after what seemed like an eternity, building it, tearing it down, and rebuilding it, my rig is finally leak testing. I still have some cosmetic things to do, but it's running! I bought some Mayhem's White and Mayhem's Blue that I was going to use in both loops, but I'm kinda digging the clean look of the white lights and distilled water. What do you think?


I like it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Cant remember If I posted some of my finished pictures in here or not! I am sure there is always room for some water cooling porn though.


Like the cabling. The blend of colors looks great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> My sig rig! Running both radiators as intakes - fans set to 5v on the fan controller.


Looks good. I used flexible tube on my first water cooled build. It was a loop like you have, but I managed to make it look spaghetti was attacked by a weed trimmer.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hahaha and that's their short list of trangressions.

As what's his name used to say on the radio...

"Now you know the *REST* of the story".









~Ceadder


----------



## Questors

I miss Paul Harvey.


----------



## fa5terba11

RIP Paul Harvey


----------



## flipmatthew

Hey guys!
I have a question- right now, I have both my front and my top rad as intakes, and only one exhaust. My case temp is noticeably higher than my ambient temp - which is to be expected with this setup. Should I be worried about other system components, specifically my motherboard vrms, getting too hot?
The upside to this is the positive air pressure and fresh air going into the loop, and if i change one of the loops to exhaust, then i'm worried i'd be recycling heat from one rad to another.
Specs:
EX-280 front - 2x noctua af-14 - run at 5v intake
rx-360 top - 2x nf-p12 and 1x nf-f12 run at 5v intake
back af-140 exhaust (stock 780t case fan) run at 12v (~1000 rpm - still really quiet).
Case: 780t


----------



## fa5terba11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I have a question- right now, I have both my front and my top rad as intakes, and only one exhaust. My case temp is noticeably higher than my ambient temp - which is to be expected with this setup. Should I be worried about other system components, specifically my motherboard vrms, getting too hot?
> The upside to this is the positive air pressure and fresh air going into the loop, and if i change one of the loops to exhaust, then i'm worried i'd be recycling heat from one rad to another.
> Specs:
> EX-280 front - 2x noctua af-14 - run at 5v intake
> rx-360 top - 2x nf-p12 and 1x nf-f12 run at 5v intake
> back af-140 exhaust (stock 780t case fan) run at 12v (~1000 rpm - still really quiet).
> Case: 780t


What kind of temps are we talking about? Normally I don't think you'd have anything to worry about, but what are your temps just to be sure?


----------



## flipmatthew

Well, I can't tell my case temps, but if i open my case door it's noticeably hotter. My gpu and cpu temps are fine, but they're in the loop. (Although my cpu is a little hot - it has always been that way, must be due to the block?) my ssd is 38 degrees C. during normal web browsing (speedstep is off) and systin is 54 degrees c during normal use (not gaming). Should I be concerned?
My hard drive is 47 degrees c - it's in the cd drive, right under tyhe top rad exhaust.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> Well, I can't tell my case temps, but if i open my case door it's noticeably hotter. My gpu and cpu temps are fine, but they're in the loop. (Although my cpu is a little hot - it has always been that way, must be due to the block?) my ssd is 38 degrees C. during normal web browsing (speedstep is off) and systin is 54 degrees c during normal use (not gaming). Should I be concerned?
> My hard drive is 47 degrees c - it's in the cd drive, right under tyhe top rad exhaust.


Sounds like heat build up to me from 6 fans blowing hot air in but only one removing it, I'd flip the PSU so it sucked air out of the case and maybe another fan on the floor or something to blow air out also.

Should be more balanced this way.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> Well, I can't tell my case temps, but if i open my case door it's noticeably hotter. My gpu and cpu temps are fine, but they're in the loop. (Although my cpu is a little hot - it has always been that way, must be due to the block?) my ssd is 38 degrees C. during normal web browsing (speedstep is off) and systin is 54 degrees c during normal use (not gaming). Should I be concerned?
> My hard drive is 47 degrees c - it's in the cd drive, right under tyhe top rad exhaust.


I'd just flip those 3 Noctua's up top to exhaust (pull in this case) and you could optionally reverse your rear case fan to intake to make it completely 1:1 for intake/exhaust. Should only take a few minutes to change up the top end Noctuas and you should be a happy camper at the end of it.

Just take the idle temps of CPU/GPU/SSD before and after the fan change(s), basic 5-15 minute load test temps as well with the same game/benchmark.


----------



## flipmatthew

I just did a stress test on the gpu and cpu for an hour, and my ssd temps were 44 from 38, hdd was 56 from 47, and sys tin was 63 from 54. is that worrisome? I can add another 140mm at the bottom of the case if necessary as well.
Keep in mind, according to smoke tests, my static pressure is almost neutral due to the rad fans being at such low rpm + restrictions (when set at 7 or 12 v, it's very positive air pressure), though i'd guess flipping the exhaust to intake and setting the top 3 as exhaust would keep it positive - but would it recycle hot air into my loop - i.e would I be getting worse cpu/gpu temps in return for better airflow in the case?
Are the temps something to be concerned about?
Also, my psu runs fanless, even at full system load (p2-1000).

edit: for the record, not that it matters i guess, Systin goes down when i set rad fans to 12v (i'm using the built in fan controller of the 780t)
Edit 2: I'm dumb, I just realized I can do it and test the temps to see if i want to keep it, like you suggested. Thanks Azefore! I'll give it a shot







. Would you recommend using a 2nd fan at the bottom though? Intake or exhaust?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I dont get it lol
> 
> 
> 
> You posted your concerns.
> 
> DerComissar said, "Fortunately, it doesn't say: "ThermalFake"!
> 
> Thermalfake, Thermalsteal, B Negatives forum avatar meme of a copy room stating, "Thermaltake R&D" (or something to that effect).
> 
> This stems from a situation where CaseLabs was working with Thermaltake and they took advantage of CaseLabs by copying CLs computer chassis and releasing copies of their own so close it even had the same ventilation holes in the panels. Then came the fans that looked exactly like Corsairs, the CPU blocks that are an exactly copy of Swiftech and other products.
> 
> After this, Thermaltake released some radiators and various blocks with aluminum and copper in the same flow path an/or full aluminum rads without making it a point to the consumer that mixing certain metals is a bad thing.
> 
> When I looked at your post and the idea of copper and aluminum in the flow path, the term _Thermalfake_ immediately came to mind.
Click to expand...

=============================================================================================

Fantastic explanation, and very well said.

Rep+


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> I just did a stress test on the gpu and cpu for an hour, and my ssd temps were 44 from 38, hdd was 56 from 47, and sys tin was 63 from 54.


The info I have from the folks at FreeNAS is that you should try and keep your HDDs below 40°C. The failure rate increases above that.

That said ... here is a report from backblaze about failure rate and temp ... that says it doesn't matter ... but note that only a very few of their drives touch 38°C.


----------



## flipmatthew

Thanks ruffhi. Also, a note - a concern of mine is if i flip the back fan, that there is no filter, and dust will accumulate in my case (I have a hairy dog) - but if i just flip the top fans it'll be negative pressure - so more dust - and i'll be recycling heat. The component i'm most worried about is my motherboard - is 62 degrees c max load on the system temp something to worry about? How does that translate to the vrms?


----------



## emsj86

So I Removed and installed my hyper x fury ram into bits power universal water blocks. Sadly one of my ram sticks went. The odd thing is the one that went was on a stick that to me I removed and installed the best. Not sure if I want to just go by some corsair dominator ddr3 or just run 3 in flex mode and wait for when I upgrade my motherboard and to ddr4


----------



## Mega Man

@Questors

A few things to point out about tt (which I hate but I will try to be objective....)

The name (tf, thermal fake ect )actually originates from several things. Most PREDATING the cl fiasco.

The swiftech stuff was not copied but licensed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sadly they recently stole a case design that otherwise wouldn't see a production line at all. Seems that EK is a favorite target of theirs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Yea. Now that I am no longer attempting to be objective. They really just need to vanish off of pc shelves. Die off and get out.

Personally I think anyone who is successful is a target


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> Thanks ruffhi. Also, a note - a concern of mine is if i flip the back fan, that there is no filter, and dust will accumulate in my case (I have a hairy dog) - but if i just flip the top fans it'll be negative pressure - so more dust - and i'll be recycling heat. The component i'm most worried about is my motherboard - is 62 degrees c max load on the system temp something to worry about? How does that translate to the vrms?


Won't be exactly recycling the heat since the exhausted hot air rises to the top of your room and the cool ambient temp air from the mid level of your room will enter into the frontt.

Even if it's negative pressure your main intake in filtered which is where the main accumulation will be, I live with a 170lb alaskan malamute and 150lb american bulldog, they both shed beyond imagination (maybe not st. bernard levels) and the only thing I've had to ever clean on a regular basis outside a quarterly dusting on my loops is the front intake. If you look at my rig page and the pictures of past iterations they've been setup to a similar degree as yours would be with the fans re-orientated on the top with just rad size differences.

Honest opinion from my is that you'd be doing yourself a favoring rotating the top fans and if you want to keep the rear as exhaust because of the lack of a filter then install a 120 or 140 intake fan on the bottom if filter is present.


----------



## Kyouki

When checking Temps on my CPU what do you think is more accurate, MSI Afterburner or ASUS AI suite? I am showing that on average ASUS AI is showing 8-10c lower then MSI AB during load and about 3-5c lower on idle. Just wondering, figured since this is water cooling thread full of people that check there temps Id get a solid answer. Thank you.


----------



## Mega Man

I hate to break this to people. I (and many others) almost exclusively run all but 1 fan intake( btw I am talking 40 plus fans in my builds)

Equalizing in vs out is near useless (unless poor quality fans) How many and what size fans going in vs out is also useless. Esp in my cases where I push in note air then out (Psst positive pressure )is fine. The air will go to any open nook and cranny.


----------



## badtaylorx

Ill get some better pics when I get it in a more permanent setup. But for now, this is my modded P5. 4970k, 2*1070's,2400mhzRAM,Z97WS,STX II audio, and %90 Koolance watercooling.

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC02554_zpsulddnxrl.jpg.html

s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC02553_zpssj9fjvgo.jpg.html][/URL]

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC02555_zpszcociooi.jpg.html

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC02504_zpss9vptjsm.jpg.html


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I hate to break this to people. I (and many others) almost exclusively run all but 1 fan intake( btw I am talking 40 plus fans in my builds)
> 
> Equalizing in vs out is near useless (unless poor quality fans) How many and what size fans going in vs out is also useless. Esp in my cases where I push in note air then out (Psst positive pressure )is fine. The air will go to any open nook and cranny.


Exactly this, both my S3 main chassis and pedestal have 4 intakes and only 1 outtake. Works like a charm! As Megaman said, good fans is important! I have 2 Aquaero sensors measuring the air inside the case, 1 in the main chassis and 1 in the pedestal. Air never gets far above the water temp. Which indicates there ain't no air pocket or anything of that sort.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I hate to break this to people. I (and many others) almost exclusively run all but 1 fan intake( btw I am talking 40 plus fans in my builds)
> 
> Equalizing in vs out is near useless (unless poor quality fans) How many and what size fans going in vs out is also useless. Esp in my cases where I push in note air then out (Psst positive pressure )is fine. The air will go to any open nook and cranny.


All I said was to simply reverse the fans on the top which takes a lot less time than making a post on this thread and waiting for replies to see if it makes a difference in his case, pun intended, if not just flip them all back to intakes and be done with it. Jeez.


----------



## flipmatthew

Thanks so much! I'll test it out, probably tommorow when I have some free time! Might consider just buying a 140mm magnetic fan filter for the back and putting it as intake.
Random question: mind posting/pming pictures of your alaskan malamute? (I've always loved that breed)! Thanks


----------



## Bogga

Stickers...









Not saying it's a bad job or anything... I'm just pro the sterile look


----------



## prznar1

Awesome build







so much different from most clean builds here that are getting so common that are boring me tbh


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Questors
> 
> A few things to point out about tt (which I hate but I will try to be objective....)
> 
> The name (tf, thermal fake ect )actually originates from several things. Most PREDATING the cl fiasco.
> 
> The swiftech stuff was not copied but licensed.


Yes, it predates the CaseLabs fiasco, I figured the more recent was a good example.

As to the Swiftech CPU block, the point wasn't whether or not it was licensed. It was more to the effect, that Thermaltake appears to have no ability to design and create products of their own from concept to final product. B Negatives avatar meme reflected that sentiment. That said, if one digs through their product listing, it is possible they will find something they did design and build.

Your objectivity and additional input is appreciated. There is nothing wrong with keeping it real.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Awesome build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much different from most clean builds here that are getting so common that are boring me tbh


Reading your comment made me think of my current build. I like clean builds, but I also like builds that have character, maybe a bit different from the majority. Anyway, thanks for the chuckle this morning.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Awesome build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much different from most clean builds here that are getting so common that are boring me tbh


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Awesome build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much different from most clean builds here that are getting so common that are boring me tbh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reading your comment made me think of my current build. I like clean builds, but I also like builds that have character, maybe a bit different from the majority. Anyway, thanks for the chuckle this morning.
Click to expand...

I got quite a chuckle out of it myself . . . . (actually, more like a





















)

Maybe because I have a P5 build that I just can't seem to get satisfied with myself, and took the frustration out in the P5 thread recently.

I think the one thing that seems the most universal across all the Tt threads is that the builders are generally either young, or inexperienced, and generally on a low end budget.

None of which generates the level of many of the builds we get used to seeing here, or the general sense of aesthetic that we get used to here.

All the stickers and for a moment, I thought I was having a Slinky flash back . . .

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I got quite a chuckle out of it myself . . . . (actually, more like a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Maybe because I have a P5 build that I just can't seem to get satisfied with myself, and took the frustration out in the P5 thread recently.
> 
> I think the one thing that seems the most universal across all the Tt threads is that the builders are generally either young, or inexperienced, and generally on a low end budget.
> 
> None of which generates the level of many of the builds we get used to seeing here, or the general sense of aesthetic that we get used to here.
> 
> All the stickers and for a moment, *I thought I was having a Slinky flash back . . .*
> 
> Darlene


Please...

Just dont........


----------



## Kimir

Oh boy. Don't remind me of him, It already makes me want to







when I see all of him on the bot. :'


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I got quite a chuckle out of it myself . . . . (actually, more like a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Maybe because I have a P5 build that I just can't seem to get satisfied with myself, and took the frustration out in the P5 thread recently.
> 
> I think the one thing that seems the most universal across all the Tt threads is that the builders are generally either young, or inexperienced, and generally on a low end budget.
> 
> None of which generates the level of many of the builds we get used to seeing here, or the general sense of aesthetic that we get used to here.
> 
> All the stickers and for a moment, I thought I was having a Slinky flash back . . .
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Please...
> 
> Just dont........


No... please do... who is/was that?! Sounds like something I would like to see


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> No... please do... who is/was that?! Sounds like something I would like to see


When you gaze into the idiot,the idiot gazes back at you.......


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh boy. Don't remind me of him, It already makes me want to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when I see all of him on the bot. :'


Yea, all neon and silver skulls







but to each their own!


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Yea, all neon and silver skulls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but to each their own!


It's more the attitude rather than the look. You can see it on a submission, but we've got a glimps of it here, it didn't last long but was enough.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> Ill get some better pics when I get it in a more permanent setup. But for now, this is my modded P5. 4970k, 2*1070's,2400mhzRAM,Z97WS,STX II audio, and %90 Koolance watercooling.
> 
> http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC02554_zpsulddnxrl.jpg.html
> 
> s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC02553_zpssj9fjvgo.jpg.html][/URL]
> 
> http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC02555_zpszcociooi.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC02504_zpss9vptjsm.jpg.html


It's so bad, it's good.


----------



## emsj86

Hey if he likes it so be it. I'm not a fan but I like seeing different builds. Too many times we see the same tubing runs and same copy cat builds


----------



## Questors

FINALLY!

Leak testing soon as a complete unit.



'Spose I will take some flack, but no air testing this time around. If you believe, you can do anything...right?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hey if he likes it so be it. I'm not a fan but I like seeing different builds. Too many times we see the same tubing runs and same copy cat builds


I agree. IMO we too often see the same, albeit aesthetically pleasing, formula applied. Clean lines, coordinated colors, and overall minimalism. If you pinch your arm long enough you won't feel the pinch, if you will. Builds that are different stand out, and that should be celebrated.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Not from me you dont......

I think anyway.....


----------



## emsj86

No not from you but from most including me you tend to see similar or the same type of builds. Some of it in sure has to do with the style of cases without modding leads to similar looking builds


----------



## Bogga

I'll be done with my build in a couple of days. I've tried to be a bit creative... hope it stands out. But keep in mind that I'm a newbie


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hey if he likes it so be it. I'm not a fan but I like seeing different builds. Too many times we see the same tubing runs and same copy cat builds
> 
> 
> 
> I agree. IMO we too often see the same, albeit aesthetically pleasing, formula applied. Clean lines, coordinated colors, and overall minimalism. If you pinch your arm long enough you won't feel the pinch, if you will. Builds that are different stand out, and that should be celebrated.
Click to expand...

If you stand chin deep in a cesspool long enough, it won't stink anymore either . . . .

Though I can't imagine why anyone would want to do it . . .

Kinda like some judges have said about porn . . . .

It's almost impossible to define . . . . . . . But I know it when I see it . . .

I'm often at odds with B on aesthetics, but we both know an abortion fugly mess, when we see one

D.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you stand chin deep in a cesspool long enough, it won't stink anymore either . . . .
> 
> Though I can't imagine why anyone would want to do it . . .
> 
> Kinda like some judges have said about porn . . . .
> 
> It's almost impossible to define . . . . . . . But I know it when I see it . . .
> 
> I'm often at odds with B on aesthetics, but we both know an abortion fugly mess, when we see one
> 
> D.


It isn't so much up or down, bad or good, but the existence of variance.


----------



## emsj86

I was trying to be nice


----------



## mypickaxe

Don't judge me too hard. I wanted to see how much I could cram into a Fractal Design Define Nano S without it looking like a total mess, while using a Predator 240 as the base.



I added a bottom intake fan - the top is enclosed and I am running air through from back to front. I really don't want to take the fans off the Predator 240 as everything is wired tightly for a nice pull configuration.



The black nickel fittings are











I'm very tempted to replace the El Cheapo SSDs (Intel RAID) with the Intel 750 Series NVMe 800 GB u.2. It's not even close to a "need" it's entirely a "want."



This is where it started. That cheap AIO cooler was something I had from another build, reused it since I knew I was going a custom water cooling route, but decided on "hybrid" custom with the Predator helping to save some space where I could use a 250mm reservoir (for the looks) and not have to deal with a separate pump.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*






^^ Oh man, everyone's having larger reservoirs than me. Look at Questors'! At the time of building my rig 140 mm looked big enough but now I'm having second thoughts about it...


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^ Oh man, everyone's having larger reservoirs than me. Look at Questors'! At the time of building my rig 140 mm looked big enough but now I'm having second thoughts about it...
Click to expand...

Yeah, but I wanted to go with the 250mm strictly because it looks better in my situation compared to a 150mm and empty space. I don't need a separate pump since a DDC is built-in to the Predator.

That tall and skinny look though, not sure about that. I'd try to find something at least double width.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> 
> ^^ Oh man, everyone's having larger reservoirs than me. *Look at Questors'!* At the time of building my rig 140 mm looked big enough but now I'm having second thoughts about it...


That's what she said!
















Okay, maybe not! What she actually said was, "BIG radiators, BIG dual pump, BIG Loop, BIG...uh...reservoir! Compensating for something or making a statement?"


















It's more like I am a total klutz and need an acre to walk around in so I won't kill myself accidentally somehow! Or a BIG case so I can keep a knuckle or two intact!


----------



## Azefore

Ordered another 7 fans for the build
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> Thanks so much! I'll test it out, probably tommorow when I have some free time! Might consider just buying a 140mm magnetic fan filter for the back and putting it as intake.
> Random question: mind posting/pming pictures of your alaskan malamute? (I've always loved that breed)! Thanks


Only semi-recent photo I have of her lol:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Awesome build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much different from most clean builds here that are getting so common that are boring me tbh


exactly, I used to sticker the s....t out of one window on my 4runners. Ive done the "clean" look. Time for something different!









Maybe I should have added a bunch of LEDs and bolted 2 P5s together... that would look great!!!


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Don't judge me too hard. I wanted to see how much I could cram into a Fractal Design Define Nano S without it looking like a total mess, while using a Predator 240 as the base.
> 
> 
> 
> I added a bottom intake fan - the top is enclosed and I am running air through from back to front. I really don't want to take the fans off the Predator 240 as everything is wired tightly for a nice pull configuration.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black nickel fittings are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very tempted to replace the El Cheapo SSDs (Intel RAID) with the Intel 750 Series NVMe 800 GB u.2. It's not even close to a "need" it's entirely a "want."
> 
> 
> 
> This is where it started. That cheap AIO cooler was something I had from another build, reused it since I knew I was going a custom water cooling route, but decided on "hybrid" custom with the Predator helping to save some space where I could use a 250mm reservoir (for the looks) and not have to deal with a separate pump.
> 
> [


A R9 Nano looks so adorable with its stock cooler


----------



## Ceadderman

Sadly they recently stole a case design that otherwise wouldn't see a production line at all. Seems that EK stuff is a favorite of theirs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not from me you dont......
> 
> I think anyway.....


Yes sir. Even from you.









But that's certainly not a bad thing until ThermalFake starts manufacturing custom Reservoirs that look exactly like a Bneg special.









~Ceadder


----------



## mypickaxe

You're missing the "[" in front of your last quote, Willius.


----------



## Questors

So, no leaks thus far.

Short of turning the entire rig upside down, I can't rid of these defiant dancing bubbles. I am wondering if I should go with a serial SLI block instead of the parallel block.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Awesome build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much different from most clean builds here that are getting so common that are boring me tbh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> exactly, I used to sticker the s....t out of one window on my 4runners. Ive done the "clean" look. Time for something different!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I should have added a bunch of LEDs and bolted 2 P5s together... that would look great!!!
Click to expand...

Certainly couldn't be any worse . . . .









OK, I'll go back on my meds now. . .

D.


----------



## XCalinX

Here's my rig. I had rigid tubing but I switched to soft because I sucked at making bends. Specs - http://pcpartpicker.com/list/6gTBLD


----------



## Bogga

When I glanced through this earlier today I couldn't restrain myself... even though my case have been stuck in Holland for over 48 hours now I had to start preparing. So I flushed my two rads (EK XE 360&480) and put on the blocks on the gpu's... feels kinda funny, but it was actually the first time I removed a cooler from a gpu


----------



## Solonowarion

Did someone say slinky?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Don't judge me too hard. I wanted to see how much I could cram into a Fractal Design Define Nano S without it looking like a total mess, while using a Predator 240 as the base.
> 
> 
> 
> I added a bottom intake fan - the top is enclosed and I am running air through from back to front. I really don't want to take the fans off the Predator 240 as everything is wired tightly for a nice pull configuration.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black nickel fittings are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very tempted to replace the El Cheapo SSDs (Intel RAID) with the Intel 750 Series NVMe 800 GB u.2. It's not even close to a "need" it's entirely a "want."
> 
> 
> 
> This is where it started. That cheap AIO cooler was something I had from another build, reused it since I knew I was going a custom water cooling route, but decided on "hybrid" custom with the Predator helping to save some space where I could use a 250mm reservoir (for the looks) and not have to deal with a separate pump.
> 
> [
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A R9 Nano looks so adorable with its stock cooler
Click to expand...

That's not it's stock cooler


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> When I glanced through this earlier today I couldn't restrain myself... even though my case have been stuck in Belgium for over 48 hours now I had to start preparing. So I flushed my two rads (EK XE 360&480) and put on the blocks on the gpu's... feels kinda funny, but it was actually the first time I removed a cooler from a gpu


Yes! Voiding a warranty kinda feels like going to a massage parlor and not not getting caught.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's not it's stock cooler


I could've sworn I saw a picture with the stock cooler on it, "it's starting point" oh well


----------



## ShortySmalls

Nothing to impressive compared to the hard tube builds, but here is my new loop.


----------



## Mega Man

you and others need to stop comparing yourself to others, we are not here to be the same, we do like the differences, i need to do another soft tube build.

it looks great


----------



## Radmanhs

Can I use this with an alphacool icecap d5?

Also, should I use this to control my Corsair ML fans for the rads?


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I could've sworn I saw a picture with the stock cooler on it, "it's starting point" oh well


You did, it was inside the spoiler







.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> You did, it was inside the spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, i edited the post because I forgot the [ for the quote. En for some reason it didn't include a few pictures. Now it shows in the spoiler where it didn't beforehand.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Yes! Voiding a warranty kinda feels like going to a massage parlor and not not getting caught.


Question is... happy ending or not?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> When I glanced through this earlier today I couldn't restrain myself... even though my case have been stuck in Belgium for over 48 hours now I had to start preparing. So I flushed my two rads (EK XE 360&480) and put on the blocks on the gpu's... feels kinda funny, but it was actually the first time I removed a cooler from a gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! Voiding a warranty kinda feels like going to a massage parlor and not not getting caught.
Click to expand...

Or working in one for some fun and extra $$$, and not telling hubby . . .


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> No... please do... who is/was that?! Sounds like something I would like to see


http://www.ebay.com/itm/301055618270

Send him a message. You can buy the beast as im guessing no one is stupid enough to buy it


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you and others need to stop comparing yourself to others, we are not here to be the same, we do like the differences, i need to do another soft tube build.
> 
> it looks great


^
This.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Did someone say slinky?


Can't say I'm a fan of the decals, obnoxious lights, and the whole dual res thing, but the way that thing is plumbed is kinda neat. However unnecessary it may be, I think the pump stack/setup actually looks amazing.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Can't say I'm a fan of the decals, obnoxious lights, and the whole dual res thing, but the way that thing is plumbed is kinda neat. However unnecessary it may be, I think the pump stack/setup actually looks amazing.


I was thinking the same thing! I remember during architecture critiques we would say that creating a discussion is often as successful as creating a well-received project. I think that project has managed to do that, at the very least


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Can't say I'm a fan of the decals, obnoxious lights, and the whole dual res thing,


Agreed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> *but the way that thing is plumbed is kinda neat.* However unnecessary it may be, *I think the pump stack/setup actually looks amazing*.


This and that...it is what makes the build have character. Would I have this rig in my home? Not on your life!







Would I have a rig with a similar build with less flash and minus the uh...sinus infection puss? Yes!







The work done on that build is very good and interesting.

As far as necessary/unnecessary goes, who decides that? Is it necessary for the average Joe to have a water cooled PC? Is it necessary to cut and hack a perfectly good PC chassis? No, but we do anyway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I was thinking the same thing! I remember during architecture critiques we would say that creating a discussion is often as successful as creating a well-received project. I think that project has managed to do that, at the very least


This -


----------



## Trestles126

Back to drawing board.... Needed the radiator to move over to try to get my tube runs how I want them which is going from Cpu to the back plate side of the gpu. Original position of radiator didn't allow this so I got to thinking and made the bullet light bars into rad mounts ( prob order another set to add the outside light bar on gpu side) this allowed me to push the rad over a inch or two.

Now the pump outlet was in way so I'm gonna have to flip it 90 degrees so it's facing the front to get outlet under tank of 240 x flow and away from fan. This works with the res idea a bit better. Now to just figure out what fittings I need to make this work a bit better all my rotary fittings are a bit to long so I'm gonna order up some shallow 45 extensions to help bring pump higher so I can use the rubber mount. That's it for tonight.

And for those who are thinking it yes the rad is now about 1/2 inch overlapping the vent cut outs in top of case but I think the gain is better than the loss.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Back to drawing board.... Needed the radiator to move over to try to get my tube runs how I want them which is going from Cpu to the back plate side of the gpu. Original position of radiator didn't allow this so I got to thinking and made the bullet light bars into rad mounts ( prob order another set to add the outside light bar on gpu side) this allowed me to push the rad over a inch or two.
> 
> Now the pump outlet was in way so I'm gonna have to flip it 90 degrees so it's facing the front to get outlet under tank of 240 x flow and away from fan. This works with the res idea a bit better. Now to just figure out what fittings I need to make this work a bit better all my rotary fittings are a bit to long so I'm gonna order up some shallow 45 extensions to help bring pump higher so I can use the rubber mount. That's it for tonight.
> 
> And for those who are thinking it yes the rad is now about 1/2 inch overlapping the vent cut outs in top of case but I think the gain is better than the loss.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah, the joys of watercooling in an ITX case! I'm in the same boat as you. I've had to cut my little guy up a bit to make some things fit, but I'm certainly having more fun working in this case than others of similar size! I really want to throw an Aquaero in front like yours, it looks great! Keep up the good work


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Nothing to impressive compared to the hard tube builds, but here is my new loop.


Clean build. Love it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> No... please do... who is/was that?! Sounds like something I would like to see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/301055618270
> 
> Send him a message. You can buy the beast as im guessing no one is stupid enough to buy it
Click to expand...

actually it shows 3 people bought it 17k, 159999 and 149999


----------



## Questors

Do these calculations look correct?

36 Watts per channel (controller)

12V fan @ .083 A = .996 Watts per fan

Leaving a margin for error, a dragging bearing or some such:

12 V @ .1 A = 1.2 Watts per fan

Thus, desiring to load each channel with no more than 32 Watts = 26.6 fans per channel

Why does this seem off to me?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I was thinking the same thing! I remember during architecture critiques we would say that creating a discussion is often as successful as creating a well-received project. I think that project has managed to do that, at the very least


Never had a real problem with the project it was the person behind the project that was a bottom feeder.

On a more fun note have had my rig pulled apart for the last two weeks adding some new hardware. In addition its my first time trying to go full hardline and it has been a real challenge.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Do these calculations look correct?
> 
> 36 Watts per channel (controller)
> 
> 12V fan @ .083 A = .996 Watts per fan
> 
> Leaving a margin for error, a dragging bearing or some such:
> 
> 12 V @ .1 A = 1.2 Watts per fan
> 
> Thus, desiring to load each channel with no more than 32 Watts = 26.6 fans per channel
> 
> Why does this seem off to me?


The calculations look right (36 watts/1.2 = 30 fans per channel) but remember that's a best-case scenario situation. The start-up current pulled by the fans will be much higher, could be up to 0.25A apiece or more depending on the motor and circuitry, and the fans may draw more power depending on restriction, bearing wear, etc.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> The calculations look right (36 watts/1.2 = 30 fans per channel) but remember that's a best-case scenario situation. The start-up current pulled by the fans will be much higher, could be up to 0.25A apiece or more depending on the motor and circuitry, and the fans may draw more power depending on restriction, bearing wear, etc.


Start up current! I am fully aware of start up current vs operational, unfortunately, it didn't cross my mind.

Thank you.


----------



## Radmanhs

how would you guys set up a standalone pump? I want my d5 pump to the side of my res (near the bottom of course). I want to have multiple outlets, for a dedicated drain. The hard part is I want to offset the pump from the rad fan that it will be mounted to. So I was thinking of getting some ek uni mounts for that. And finally, I want it to look nice, probably a shroud to go over the pump along with the pump top.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Start up current! I am fully aware of start up current vs operational, unfortunately, it didn't cross my mind.
> 
> Thank you.


that amperage looks like Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpm model. If so the start up current should be 12 v @ 0.36 A if my memory still serves...


----------



## Radmanhs

Also, if I use something like this, how do I control the fans, or do I use a female to female fan cable between one of the connectors and the mobo?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Also, if I use something like this, how do I control the fans, or do I use a female to female fan cable between one of the connectors and the mobo?


You use a fan controller, This is what I use. It can also control your pump if you have a Aquacomputer Pump.

Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-xt-blue-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control.html


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Also, if I use something like this, how do I control the fans, or do I use a female to female fan cable between one of the connectors and the mobo?
> 
> 
> 
> You use a fan controller, This is what I use. It can also control your pump if you have a Aquacomputer Pump.
> 
> Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-xt-blue-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control.html
Click to expand...

I've always thought the aquaero's were cool, but I can't justify $200 to control a few fans. So I can't use my motherboard cpu fan header and female to female cable?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I've always thought the aquaero's were cool, but I can't justify $200 to control a few fans. So I can't use my motherboard cpu fan header and female to female cable?


Check the current max on the CPU fan header. I would run the fans off a molex from the PSU.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> that amperage looks like Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpm model. If so the start up current should be 12 v @ 0.36 A if my memory still serves...


Yes, 1850 GTs. It's .083 amps. It is my understanding that is operating amps at 12V -1850 RPM. The actual starting amps would be higher to get things rolling, as it were. If the amperage specified on the hub is starting amps, what I believe to be right is incorrect.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I've always thought the aquaero's were cool, but I can't justify $200 to control a few fans. So I can't use my motherboard cpu fan header and female to female cable?
> 
> 
> 
> Check the current max on the CPU fan header. I would run the fans off a molex from the PSU.
Click to expand...

Just noticed I actually forgot to link what I was looking at >.>

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html

it has a dedicated molex connector, but I can't find anywhere how to actually control the fans, or do they just run at max?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Yes, 1850 GTs. It's .083 amps. It is my understanding that is operating amps at 12V -1850 RPM. The actual starting amps would be higher to get things rolling, as it were. If the amperage specified on the hub is starting amps, what I believe to be right is incorrect.


Nope, don't worry. 0.083 is the operating A for sure. And quite accurate for as well as I recall.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I've always thought the aquaero's were cool, but I can't justify $200 to control a few fans. So I can't use my motherboard cpu fan header and female to female cable?


Get the 5 LT (with WB). I've used it to control 17 AP15's on 3 channels with ease.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Just noticed I actually forgot to link what I was looking at >.>
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
> 
> it has a dedicated molex connector, but I can't find anywhere how to actually control the fans, or do they just run at max?


They will run at max. You need a fan controller to vary voltage if you want to control speeds.

There are plenty of cheaper fan controller options besides the Aquero like NZXT and Lamptron.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey guys, if you're needing modding gear for your water cooling rig(case-wise), MNPCTech has a 15% discount for OCN members.

Enter code, OCN at Checkout for 15% Discount off your order until 10/6/16

If Overseas, you need to follow instructions for ordering via "Contact Us" and mention the code, http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html

So there you go, a reason to mod for a discount.









~Ceadder


----------



## erso44

Is this normal?
what is this yellow / gold color?
it´s an outlet of the CPU cooler


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Is this normal?


Yes. Clear flex tubing tends to change in clarity over time due to heat.









Or are you talking about that one hose coming off the CPU? It's a little dark there, so you might need to drain your loop and check your block. Doesn't seem to be affecting anything else or coming from the radiator?









~Ceadder


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes. Clear flex tubing tends to change in clarity over time due to heat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


didn´t know that so it will not break or something like that? I mean will it get instable?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes. Clear flex tubing tends to change in clarity over time due to heat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> didn´t know that so it will not break or something like that? I mean will it get instable?
Click to expand...

No but that one tube on your CPU looks a little dark, so I'd recommend checking your block or flushing your loop.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No but that one tube on your CPU looks a little dark, so I'd recommend checking your block or flushing your loop.


stop.
I´m talking about the yellow one not about the white ones. Do you also mean that tube?


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Just noticed I actually forgot to link what I was looking at >.>
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
> 
> it has a dedicated molex connector, but I can't find anywhere how to actually control the fans, or do they just run at max?


That one looks like the fans run at max as I didn't see any means to control voltage for the 3-pin fan connectors. Not sure if it helps but if you're running PWM fans you can use a splitter like this to control many fans off one motherboard header.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-akasa-flexa-fp5s-pwm-fan-splitter-cable-45cm.html

I use a similar molex version of this cable and it works fine. The power is delivered from the SATA power and one fan connector acts as the master sending its RPM reading back to the motherboard. The PWM signal is split to all the fans allowing the motherboard to control the multiple fans without having to power them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No but that one tube on your CPU looks a little dark, so I'd recommend checking your block or flushing your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stop.
> I´m talking about the yellow one not about the white ones. Do you also mean that tube?
Click to expand...

Yes. No way it should be that dark if all the tubes were installed at the same time. So definitely check the block.









Heat will change the clarity but I doubt that it would be that dark and none of the others is showing similar discoloration.









I thought you were asking about all your tubing not just the one.









~Ceadder


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes. No way it should be that dark if all the tubes were installed at the same time. So definitely check the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heat will change the clarity *but I doubt that it would be that dark and none of the others is showing similar discoloration*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you were asking about all your tubing not just the one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


you know that you are scaring me now? I´m serious. And that is the point. Why didn´t all pvc tubes change color like that one tubing coming out of the CPU.

But I don`t understand what could be the reason. You say heat will change the clarity what about the heatground of the CPU block? My GPU blocks are where the chip is located brown (!!) could be this the reason?


----------



## Radmanhs

question, with a passthrough and a bitspower 90 degree rotary, how far will the setup extend past the metal? I want to have the drain go through the center panel in my inwin 303, so it goes out towards the back panel I have 2 cm of clearance. Is that enough for that, some soft tubing and a drain valve?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@Radmanhs - Bitspower site has drawings of their fittings with sizes, so you can plan exactly.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Is this normal?
> what is this yellow / gold color?
> it´s an outlet of the CPU cooler


Unless that off-color tubing is intentional, I'd rip that loop apart and investigate ASAP. It shouldn't do that.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Unless that off-color tubing is intentional, I'd rip that loop apart and investigate ASAP. It shouldn't do that.


No, that is pretty common.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Soft tubing does that, it gets cloudy. Mine looked all blueish-greenish after one year so I replaced it. However the waterblocks were clean inside and I only did minor cleaning to them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Unless that off-color tubing is intentional, I'd rip that loop apart and investigate ASAP. It shouldn't do that.
> 
> 
> 
> No, that is pretty common.
Click to expand...

Not for just 1 tube it isn't. I'd inspect that GPU block at least since it's routed out to the CPU block.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Unless that off-color tubing is intentional, I'd rip that loop apart and investigate ASAP. It shouldn't do that.


Uhhhhh, yea. It's not normal for that one piece to look like someone took a crap in it. If the tubing was close to your GPUs, maybe the heat off the GPUs for a year or so miscolored it. However, I don't think I've ever kept the same setup for longer than 6 months so I wouldn't know for sure, but I've never seen anyone's tubing change colors like that in only one section of tubing. Do you have a flow meter in your loop? Has the flow slowed down any compared to how it was when it was initially setup?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

In my case the piece of tubing directly downstream from the GPUs gets the most discoloration and blue-green residue in it. I think this is something released by copper waterblocks. I have 4 GPUs so more of this stuff than most other loops. This does not seem to affect anything else though.


----------



## Questors

This splitter allows the user to plug 3 pin fans and then to a fan speed controller other than Aquaero?



Details:
Splitty9 is a universal ninefold splitter and can be used for 3-pin fans, 4-pin PWM fans or as an aquabus splitter.
When used with a fan output, the white connector marked with the word "input" is connected to a fan output using the supplied cable. Power supply and PWM signal (if available) are provided to all nine black connectors, additionally the speed signal received from the connector marked "rpm" is forwarded to the fan output.
When used as aquabus splitter, the white connector marked with the word "input" is connected to the aquabus connector of an aquaero using the supplied cable. By setting the jumper to the "aquabus" position, all four aquabus signal lines are forwarded to all black connectors. The splitter can be used for 4-pin as well as 3-pin aquabus devices.
A self-adhesive hook-and-loop strip is included for easy installation, alternatively four mounting holes can be used.


----------



## Shoggy

You can use it as a normal splitter for fans OR as a splitter for aquabus devices when used with an aquaero. The jumper controls if only the first fan port forwards the speed signal or if this pin is forwarded for all ports which is required for aquabus but would not make any sense when used with fans. Most splitters do that the wrong way.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can use it as a normal splitter for fans OR as a splitter for aquabus devices when used with an aquaero. The jumper controls if only the first fan port forwards the speed signal or if this pin is forwarded for all ports which is required for aquabus but would not make any sense when used with fans. Most splitters do that the wrong way.


Great product, its strangely hard to find a decent splitter in Europe for some reason.

Although there are 2 things I might want to see added/changed, both involving the cable.

-An extra splitter cable that splits the 4-pin PWM into a SATA power connector and RPM+PWM for when the splitter is used solely for PWM fans off the motherboard.
-Black cables and/or non-transparent braiding.

Wouldn't mind paying a few euros extra for that or just don't include a cable at all and make it a little cheaper?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can use it as a normal splitter for fans OR as a splitter for aquabus devices when used with an aquaero. The jumper controls if only the first fan port forwards the speed signal or if this pin is forwarded for all ports which is required for aquabus but would not make any sense when used with fans. Most splitters do that the wrong way.


What I am trying to do is find a way to hook up 3 pin fans on my radiators to a controller, spreading the load across several channels without having to use 25 different cables to split from 4 -1 (x2), 3 -1 (x4) then down again to 2 -1 , 2 -1, 2 -1 and finally to a fan/pump controller. Part of the goal is to reduce cable clutter.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Hey I was a little bored today so I ended up making this. What do you think? I'm debating leaving it in or going back to my simple bend I had before.
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1133_zpsx8rdqkqk.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1143_zpspy10entw.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1142_zpsvuuueonn.jpg.html


----------



## ruffhi

Hmmm ... not sure ... but I thought I read somewhere that you shouldn't spin your water in the same way that a hurricane / cyclone will spin in your hemisphere ... as ... well ... for obvious reasons (I would have thought).



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



joking. Looks interesting? Are you using clear, colorless liquid or something that will stand out?


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> This splitter allows the user to plug 3 pin fans and then to a fan speed controller other than Aquaero?
> 
> 
> 
> Details:
> Splitty9 is a universal ninefold splitter and can be used for 3-pin fans, 4-pin PWM fans or as an aquabus splitter.
> When used with a fan output, the white connector marked with the word "input" is connected to a fan output using the supplied cable. Power supply and PWM signal (if available) are provided to all nine black connectors, additionally the speed signal received from the connector marked "rpm" is forwarded to the fan output.
> When used as aquabus splitter, the white connector marked with the word "input" is connected to the aquabus connector of an aquaero using the supplied cable. By setting the jumper to the "aquabus" position, all four aquabus signal lines are forwarded to all black connectors. The splitter can be used for 4-pin as well as 3-pin aquabus devices.
> A self-adhesive hook-and-loop strip is included for easy installation, alternatively four mounting holes can be used.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can use it as a normal splitter for fans OR as a splitter for aquabus devices when used with an aquaero. The jumper controls if only the first fan port forwards the speed signal or if this pin is forwarded for all ports which is required for aquabus but would not make any sense when used with fans. Most splitters do that the wrong way.


This thing looks mighty interesting. Forgive me if I'm repeating the question here. But I'm going to go with 4 fans on a 480 rad and 3 fans on a 360 rad. Would this little device give me the option to skip the 3 to 1 splitter and the 4 to 1 (+molex) splitter? I'm going to connect it all to an aquaero 6...


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Hmmm ... not sure ... but I thought I read somewhere that you shouldn't spin your water in the same way that a hurricane / cyclone will spin in your hemisphere ... as ... well ... for obvious reasons (I would have thought).
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> joking. Looks interesting? Are you using clear, colorless liquid or something that will stand out?


Hmm. Haven't read that anywhere. But it's not like it'll really be spinning per say, like down a toilet. It should just flow through it.

I'm going to be using clear with the Mayhems gold aurora in it. That's the plan anyway, might change as i'm not sure it's going to really be the effect I think it will be.


----------



## Stateless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Hmm. Haven't read that anywhere. But it's not like it'll really be spinning per say, like down a toilet. It should just flow through it.
> 
> I'm going to be using clear with the Mayhems gold aurora in it. That's the plan anyway, might change as i'm not sure it's going to really be the effect I think it will be.


I think it looks pretty cool looking. I say give it a shot to see how it works. I have not gone to solid tubing as of yet, I am still of soft tubing, but love the way it looks. I am doing a small upgrade and putting my GPU's on their own loop, ordered all my parts and was good to go until I realized I forgot to order clear soft tubing, which of course puts a hold on my plans. I am doing a re-build with a new Mobo and CPU next year and that is when I plan to move to hard tubes. In the time between now and then, I plan to read and watch a lot of video's. I might even buy some tubes to practice bends with before going full rig with it.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> This thing looks mighty interesting. Forgive me if I'm repeating the question here. But I'm going to go with 4 fans on a 480 rad and 3 fans on a 360 rad. Would this little device give me the option to skip the 3 to 1 splitter and the 4 to 1 (+molex) splitter? I'm going to connect it all to an aquaero 6...


These questions really fascinate me in some way







This is just a spliiter like any other splitter but only slightly more intelligent since you can chose if you want to connect all rpm signal pins or just the one from the first channel. So if you connect this splitter to some fan port it will allow you to connect up to nine fans to this fan port. In case of the aquaero 6 there will be no problem as long as you do not use some super power hungry fans. Even in this case the aquaero would just warn you that the load is too high - other fan controllers just burn down...


----------



## erso44

Here are some pictures. What happend to the GPU blocks, jesus God!

To understand my situation I didnt get your points guys. What is causing this and the most important question: Since my temps are higher than before do my blocks gonna destroy themselves?


----------



## ShortySmalls

Hmm, found some coolant in the bottom of my case today loop has been together about 2 weeks, looked fresh since it was still pretty wet. I checked all my compression fittings all still hand tight and none had coolant around them. Cleaned it up and leaving the paper towels inside for a couple days see what happens.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> These questions really fascinate me in some way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is just a spliiter like any other splitter but only slightly more intelligent since you can chose if you want to connect all rpm signal pins or just the one from the first channel. So if you connect this splitter to some fan port it will allow you to connect up to nine fans to this fan port. In case of the aquaero 6 there will be no problem as long as you do not use some super power hungry fans. Even in this case the aquaero would just warn you that the load is too high - other fan controllers just burn down...


Well, if I totally understood and was 100% sure I wouldn't ask, would I? When it comes to all these tiny things I'd rather ask a silly question than assume I'm right and end up feeling like a moron when I'm not.

So bear with me for one final question that might feel silly.

No need for molex or some other extra stuff. Just connect my 8 EK vardar 2200rpm fans to this and then connect it to the aquaero and I'm all set?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Hey I was a little bored today so I ended up making this. What do you think? I'm debating leaving it in or going back to my simple bend I had before.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1133_zpsx8rdqkqk.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1143_zpspy10entw.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1142_zpsvuuueonn.jpg.html


That looks awesome, especially if you're gonna run aurora. Keep it for sure


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Hmmm ... not sure ... but I thought I read somewhere that you shouldn't spin your water in the same way that a hurricane / cyclone will spin in your hemisphere ... as ... well ... for obvious reasons (I would have thought).
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> joking. Looks interesting? Are you using clear, colorless liquid or something that will stand out?


Only where Reservoirs are concerned as it has a good chance of sucking air into the pump. For tubing it's not a big deal as the flow isn't able to vortex in that tight of a space.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Hey I was a little bored today so I ended up making this. What do you think? I'm debating leaving it in or going back to my simple bend I had before.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1133_zpsx8rdqkqk.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1143_zpspy10entw.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1142_zpsvuuueonn.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks awesome, especially if you're gonna run aurora. Keep it for sure
Click to expand...

Ditto. Totally agree since it's a really clean bend.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Here are some pictures. What happend to the GPU blocks, jesus God!
> 
> To understand my situation I didnt get your points guys. What is causing this and the most important question: Since my temps are higher than before do my blocks gonna destroy themselves?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Going off that first pic, it looks like that Nickel is tarnishing and that's likely what has discoloured your tubing. I would check those blocks and see if they can be cleaned up. The tarnishing looks like it's happening mostly to the exterior of the routing wall but you won't know for sure til you get up close and personal with the cooling channels and inspect the fins.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Hmm, found some coolant in the bottom of my case today loop has been together about 2 weeks, looked fresh since it was still pretty wet. I checked all my compression fittings all still hand tight and none had coolant around them. Cleaned it up and leaving the paper towels inside for a couple days see what happens.


Check to see if you have some place where the coolant is traveling from. It's likely the G1/4 seal at the nearest point is rolled and potentially failing.










~Ceadder


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> No need for molex or some other extra stuff. Just connect my 8 EK vardar 2200rpm fans to this and then connect it to the aquaero and I'm all set?


Yes, nothing required in addition.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, nothing required in addition.


Thanks, all I needed to know.

Since this is a small thingie. Is it still 21€ shipping cost or do you send it by "letter"?


----------



## Shoggy

Can be also sent with an envelope but in this case you will have to order by e-mail so we can process that manually. The webshop will always charge for a parcel.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Can be also sent with an envelope but in this case you will have to order by e-mail so we can process that manually. The webshop will always charge for a parcel.


Awesome... I'll send a mail right away









Edit: Sent...


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Here are some pictures. What happend to the GPU blocks, jesus God!
> 
> To understand my situation I didnt get your points guys. What is causing this and the most important question: Since my temps are higher than before do my blocks gonna destroy themselves?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


would say the nickel plating has lodged its way inside the CPU block causing a restriction in flow.
looks like the GPU block is already destroyed but reusable if you don't mind a bare copper block you could strip the rest of the nickel off
That brown tube almost looks like it is off a separate roll of tube.
Looks like a distilled loop with out any corrosion inhibitors and a drop or 2 too much of the biocide, always a bad idea IMHO
I have ran my loop nearly 4 years without a coolant change no problems apart from TIM bleedout on the GPUs.

I would use this if you insist on clear coolant. http://www.overclock.net/products/mayhems-pre-mix-x1-clear
I used an automotive coolant 30/70 mix against most peoples advice.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Here are some pictures. What happend to the GPU blocks, jesus God!


Looks like the nickel plating has been eaten away due to corrosion and has exposed the copper layer underneath. Did you utilise a coolant with anti corrosive properties or not?

You will need to dismantle and open up the block to get a closer look.

The tubing changing colour can be due to a number of variables.

Time to pull apart everything and take a close look at what is going on. As mentioned by others - In particular take a close look inside your CPU block as it's internal passages may have foreign object blockage....


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Got some stuff done today, what do you think? I'm waiting on three little parts and I'll be able to call this done. Tons more pics in my build log.
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1151_zpsbauu28uq.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1150_zpstecim2ck.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1169_zpseu9d8tkf.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1165_zps1x5fvdxi.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1161_zpsw8jr00uw.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1160_zpszstlvj2i.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1159_zpstrlzjvic.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1158_zps789s6oaq.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1155_zps3wfqncye.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1154_zpsl4kyeybd.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1146_zpsezalczsp.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1178_zpsw8gdy3to.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1171_zpstueozok5.jpg.html
http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1173_zpsgcnvgnos.jpg.html


----------



## 0ldChicken

@DasandmancomethWILD! you're going to be using gold aurora correct? That'll look great with these original angles


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> @DasandmancomethWILD! you're going to be using gold aurora correct? That'll look great with these original angles


That's the plan on the CPU side anyway, clear UV blue with gold aurora booster. GPU side will be trans blue/UV blue.


----------



## derickwm

I heard ya'll like copper...














































More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1590424/sponsored-verkt-y-cu-an-elegant-steampunk-2p-workstation/240


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I heard ya'll like copper...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
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> More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1590424/sponsored-verkt-y-cu-an-elegant-steampunk-2p-workstation/240

































~Ceadder


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Got some stuff done today, what do you think? I'm waiting on three little parts and I'll be able to call this done. Tons more pics in my build log.
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC%20Computer%20Build/IMG_1151_zpsbauu28uq.jpg.html][/URL]
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1150_zpstecim2ck.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1169_zpseu9d8tkf.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1165_zps1x5fvdxi.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1161_zpsw8jr00uw.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1160_zpszstlvj2i.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1159_zpstrlzjvic.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1158_zps789s6oaq.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1155_zps3wfqncye.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1154_zpsl4kyeybd.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1146_zpsezalczsp.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1178_zpsw8gdy3to.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1171_zpstueozok5.jpg.html
> http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ltiedeman/media/LC Computer Build/IMG_1173_zpsgcnvgnos.jpg.html


Looks awesome! More spinny things than I would use, but to each their own. The gold will make this come to life.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I heard ya'll like copper...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1590424/sponsored-verkt-y-cu-an-elegant-steampunk-2p-workstation/240


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> ~Ceadder































<== This


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I heard ya'll like copper...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> More: http://www.overclock.net/t/1590424/sponsored-verkt-y-cu-an-elegant-steampunk-2p-workstation/240


Speechless.


----------



## Mega Man

..... .......... ..... .. .........


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Jeez Derick...that's just epic stuff right there!


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> This splitter allows the user to plug 3 pin fans and then to a fan speed controller other than Aquaero?
> 
> 
> 
> Details:
> Splitty9 is a universal ninefold splitter and can be used for 3-pin fans, 4-pin PWM fans or as an aquabus splitter.
> When used with a fan output, the white connector marked with the word "input" is connected to a fan output using the supplied cable. Power supply and PWM signal (if available) are provided to all nine black connectors, additionally the speed signal received from the connector marked "rpm" is forwarded to the fan output.
> When used as aquabus splitter, the white connector marked with the word "input" is connected to the aquabus connector of an aquaero using the supplied cable. By setting the jumper to the "aquabus" position, all four aquabus signal lines are forwarded to all black connectors. The splitter can be used for 4-pin as well as 3-pin aquabus devices.
> A self-adhesive hook-and-loop strip uuuhh<<7 x for easy installation, alternatively four mounting holes can be used.


I've using one to connect all my Darkside dimmable LEDs and have the SPLITTY9 connected to a Poweradjust Ultra, so this thing is very versatile. I just wish it would have been released sooner so I could have used 4 more of them to control all my fans. I'm using 4 x Swiftech 8 way PWM splitters, each connected to a PWM header on an Aquaero, to control all my fans, but the SPLITTY9 would have significantly cut down on the amount of cables I have to run since all the Swiftech splitters are run to a PWM header on the Aquaero plus it has to be connected using a SATA power connector. Everything would have looked much cleaner without all the SATA power cables.

......


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Here are some pictures. What happend to the GPU blocks, jesus God!
> 
> To understand my situation I didnt get your points guys. What is causing this and the most important question: Since my temps are higher than before do my blocks gonna destroy themselves?


Are any of your waterblocks and/or radiators made with aluminum? Was there any biocide or anything in the coolant to stabilize the pH level? High pH levels of the water in your loop increase scaling while low pH levels increase corrosion. Corrosion also increases with high levels of oxygen and especially if manufactured metals, like aluminum, are used in a waterloop. Now, as temperatures rise and fall, oxygen levels can decrease (while hydrogen levels increase) which lower your pH levels, and on the flip side, pH levels increase with salinity, which can cause scaling and corrosion (temporarily). This is why it's good to use chemicals to keep your pH levels in balance, like Mayhem's Extreme or better yet, their XT-1. The only way to prevent scaling and/or corrosion is with these additives or frequent coolant changes. Since you have plexi blocks, you'll see it starting there. It's also a good thing to test your water every now and then to make sure your pH levels are in the middle range before something like this happens. Manufactured metals just increase the process,especially with increasing temperature temperatures.

Also, those GPU blocks look kinda old. EK's GPU waterblocks now have a small piece of nickel (looks like a razor blade) which sits down flush in the middle of the fins inside the GPU block. What are you using a as coolant and when is the last time you flushed your loop? Are you using any additives in your coolant?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Please tell me you're putting some logos on those supremacy blocks.


----------



## JeskeJL02

Just finished up my enthoo luxe build yesterday.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I heard ya'll like copper...




That is some amazing copper there my friend


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> @DasandmancomethWILD! you're going to be using gold aurora correct? That'll look great with these original angles


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> That's the plan on the CPU side anyway, clear UV blue with gold aurora booster. GPU side will be trans blue/UV blue.


I don't mean to be a party pooper, but Aurora fluid + those filters at the pump/res doesn't look like it will go well.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> I don't mean to be a party pooper, but Aurora fluid + those filters at the pump/res doesn't look like it will go well.


Already tested, the aurora particles are very very small. The screen in the filters are small as well but larger than the aurora particles.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JeskeJL02*
> 
> Just finished up my enthoo luxe build yesterday.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! Great job with the tube.


----------



## Malik

New toys arrived


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Already tested, the aurora particles are very very small. The screen in the filters are small as well but larger than the aurora particles.


Oh wow, I stand corrected and thank you for the info! Look forward to seeing your completed rig


----------



## eucalyptus

Oh damn, I missed the last 400 posts... This thread is goooooooing daaaaamn fast!

Well, I have updated my build log at Bit Tech, but since I can't post links I can still give you pictures









16 flow meters for my project "V8 Ocean"












































http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870695/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870696/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870697/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870698/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870699/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870700/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870701/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870702/


----------



## LiquidHaus

I've seen those cylindrical flow meters before! Super interested in the build quality. I've only ever seen them on ebay and not from a site I'm used to so I never picked one up.


----------



## Stateless

Question guys...

I have had my existing loop going for about 3 years now. I am modifying it by putting my GPU's on their own loop. My question is this, since it has been 3 years, is it necessary or recommended that I remove the CPU block and re-do the thermal paste or should it be fine? I did not think about this till now, the CPU loop is filled and been bleeding/leak testing. I am using soft tubing and looking at the slack I have in the tubing, if needed I should be able to remove the block and re-do the paste. But not sure if that is necessary. I have a I7-3930k OC to 4.7 and under heavy load I peak at around 68c or so, under normal gaming I hit about 55c or so on average across all cores. Just looking for advice.

Thanks!

I am doing a red, white, blue configuration. Power cables will be white. The CPU Loop is using Red Tubing, the GPU loop will use Clear tubing with Blue water, so making a sort of patriotic coloring.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Question guys...
> 
> I have had my existing loop going for about 3 years now. I am modifying it by putting my GPU's on their own loop. My question is this, since it has been 3 years, is it necessary or recommended that I remove the CPU block and re-do the thermal paste or should it be fine? I did not think about this till now, the CPU loop is filled and been bleeding/leak testing. I am using soft tubing and looking at the slack I have in the tubing, if needed I should be able to remove the block and re-do the paste. But not sure if that is necessary. I have a I7-3930k OC to 4.7 and under heavy load I peak at around 68c or so, under normal gaming I hit about 55c or so on average across all cores. Just looking for advice.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I am doing a red, white, blue configuration. Power cables will be white. The CPU Loop is using Red Tubing, the GPU loop will use Clear tubing with Blue water, so making a sort of patriotic coloring.


I would if it was me. Perfect time to freshen it up.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Question guys...
> 
> I have had my existing loop going for about 3 years now. I am modifying it by putting my GPU's on their own loop. My question is this, since it has been 3 years, is it necessary or recommended that I remove the CPU block and re-do the thermal paste or should it be fine? I did not think about this till now, the CPU loop is filled and been bleeding/leak testing. I am using soft tubing and looking at the slack I have in the tubing, if needed I should be able to remove the block and re-do the paste. But not sure if that is necessary. I have a I7-3930k OC to 4.7 and under heavy load I peak at around 68c or so, under normal gaming I hit about 55c or so on average across all cores. Just looking for advice.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I am doing a red, white, blue configuration. Power cables will be white. The CPU Loop is using Red Tubing, the GPU loop will use Clear tubing with Blue water, so making a sort of patriotic coloring.


Depending on the paste you should be fine.

Also there is no way to "stabilize" ph levels esp when adding ANY additive even glycol. It helps but it depends on many factors. Either way. Recommended to check ph regularly... as again there is no way to stabilize it...


----------



## Stateless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I would if it was me. Perfect time to freshen it up.


Thanks. Since it was so simple to remove the CPU block with the tubing connected, I went ahead and cleaned up the old paste and applied some new paste. Looking at my order history, it was almost 3 1/2 years ago when I first installed that block, so it probably was time to re-do the paste. I don't remember what paste I used that long ago, but all I had was the paste that came with my EK GPU blocks, so I used that since I heard that stuff was pretty good. With my CPU being on it's own loop now, I should have even better temps, they are running through 3 360 RADS, so a little overkill for the CPU alone.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I would if it was me. Perfect time to freshen it up.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Since it was so simple to remove the CPU block with the tubing connected, I went ahead and cleaned up the old paste and applied some new paste. Looking at my order history, it was almost 3 1/2 years ago when I first installed that block, so it probably was time to re-do the paste. I don't remember what paste I used that long ago, but all I had was the paste that came with my EK GPU blocks, so I used that since I heard that stuff was pretty good. With my CPU being on it's own loop now, I should have even better temps, they are running through 3 360 RADS, so a little overkill for the CPU alone.
Click to expand...

EK uses Gelid, so yes its pretty good.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> EK uses Gelid, so yes its pretty good.


With the Supremacy Evo, yes. The rest mostly get their Ectotherm TIM.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I've seen those cylindrical flow meters before! Super interested in the build quality. I've only ever seen them on ebay and not from a site I'm used to so I never picked one up.


I ordered one recently, haven't figured out if I have a spot for it yet, but it was too cool to pass up.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> With the Supremacy Evo, yes. The rest mostly get their Ectotherm TIM.


Hey VSG have you tried any Kryonaut yet?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I ordered one recently, haven't figured out if I have a spot for it yet, but it was too cool to pass up.


Yeah they do look pretty sweet. Way different than what's normally available, so I'm all for it. Do those impellers rattle if you were to shake them?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Hey VSG have you tried any Kryonaut yet?


I have, yeah. Need to find time to write it up, but basically the advantage of TG Kryonaut is offering tools for consistently better TIM spread despite the higher density and relative high viscosity here and with other higher performing non-conductive TIMs. If you have a way to get Gelid GC Extreme or similar TIM consistently spread well, don't bother swapping TIM. If you need new TIM, go for this or something like the Noctua NT-H1 for good spread/performance balance.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> With the Supremacy Evo, yes. The rest mostly get their Ectotherm TIM.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey VSG have you tried any Kryonaut yet?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I ordered one recently, haven't figured out if I have a spot for it yet, but it was too cool to pass up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah they do look pretty sweet. Way different than what's normally available, so I'm all for it. Do those impellers rattle if you were to shake them?
Click to expand...

No rattle in mine, very solid piece


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Are any of your waterblocks and/or radiators made with aluminum? Was there any biocide or anything in the coolant to stabilize the pH level? High pH levels of the water in your loop increase scaling while low pH levels increase corrosion. Corrosion also increases with high levels of oxygen and especially if manufactured metals, like aluminum, are used in a waterloop. Now, as temperatures rise and fall, oxygen levels can decrease (while hydrogen levels increase) which lower your pH levels, and on the flip side, pH levels increase with salinity, which can cause scaling and corrosion (temporarily). This is why it's good to use chemicals to keep your pH levels in balance, like Mayhem's Extreme or better yet, their XT-1. The only way to prevent scaling and/or corrosion is with these additives or frequent coolant changes. Since you have plexi blocks, you'll see it starting there. It's also a good thing to test your water every now and then to make sure your pH levels are in the middle range before something like this happens. Manufactured metals just increase the process,especially with increasing temperature temperatures.
> 
> Also, those GPU blocks look kinda old. EK's GPU waterblocks now have a small piece of nickel (looks like a razor blade) which sits down flush in the middle of the fins inside the GPU block. What are you using a as coolant and when is the last time you flushed your loop? Are you using any additives in your coolant?


1. Every part is made of aluminum, I checked it before.
2. I never used biocide or any coolant to stabilize pH level but I bought anti-corro-fluid and didn´t use it. I will use it soon to see what will happen.
3. but how does corrosion get to work when my system is a closed loop? I am using distilled water since 1 year...

Since this all happened my CPU temps rised and I think of taking the cooler off, opening and cleaning it of corrosion. I need a step by step guide.

ehh...Does s.o. know how to open and clean an "Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light" ? correctly


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> ehh...Does s.o. know how to open and clean an "Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light" ? correctly


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Are any of your waterblocks and/or radiators made with aluminum? Was there any biocide or anything in the coolant to stabilize the pH level? High pH levels of the water in your loop increase scaling while low pH levels increase corrosion. Corrosion also increases with high levels of oxygen and especially if manufactured metals, like aluminum, are used in a waterloop. Now, as temperatures rise and fall, oxygen levels can decrease (while hydrogen levels increase) which lower your pH levels, and on the flip side, pH levels increase with salinity, which can cause scaling and corrosion (temporarily). This is why it's good to use chemicals to keep your pH levels in balance, like Mayhem's Extreme or better yet, their XT-1. The only way to prevent scaling and/or corrosion is with these additives or frequent coolant changes. Since you have plexi blocks, you'll see it starting there. It's also a good thing to test your water every now and then to make sure your pH levels are in the middle range before something like this happens. Manufactured metals just increase the process,especially with increasing temperature temperatures.
> 
> Also, those GPU blocks look kinda old. EK's GPU waterblocks now have a small piece of nickel (looks like a razor blade) which sits down flush in the middle of the fins inside the GPU block. What are you using a as coolant and when is the last time you flushed your loop? Are you using any additives in your coolant?
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Every part is made of aluminum, I checked it before.
> 2. I never used biocide or any coolant to stabilize pH level but I bought anti-corro-fluid and didn´t use it. I will use it soon to see what will happen.
> 3. but how does corrosion get to work when my system is a closed loop? I am using distilled water since 1 year...
> 
> Since this all happened my CPU temps rised and I think of taking the cooler off, opening and cleaning it of corrosion. I need a step by step guide.
> 
> ehh...Does s.o. know how to open and clean an "Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light" ? correctly
Click to expand...

I can tell you right now your entire loop is NOT aluminum, for the simple fact that the XP3 Light block is a copper block. If that's the case, you're probably getting galvanic corrosion in your loop if there is aluminum anywhere in there.

Good rule to live by is never buy aluminum anything (that has contact with the water in the loop) when it comes to watercooling. Aluminum us great for cases, not for watercooling.


----------



## Radmanhs

just got my ek waterblocks. I'm assuming after looking at the instructions I can't reinstall the stock backplate that came with my asus 1080 stix with the block?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just got my ek waterblocks. I'm assuming after looking at the instructions I can't reinstall the stock backplate that came with my asus 1080 stix with the block?


Not without modding the backplate unfortunately.


----------



## Radmanhs

are the mods simple? I really don't want to buy the backplate for aesthetic and "passive cooling"


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> are the mods simple? I really don't want to buy the backplate for aesthetic and "passive cooling"


But the nickel ones are oh-so-shiny!










(I realize this isn't a Strix BP, but same effect)

That being said, I've never actually done it but judging from the pictures online...









You could give it a shot with just having the four screws around the GPU core and those two near the VRM sections, but I can't officially say that as a recommendation... So you would need to screw out each of the silvery standoffs on the stock backplate, since they're used to hold the backplate to the PCB from the reverse side.

Found a guide for you!

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/4upbqx/asus_strix_water_cooling_with_original_backplate/


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> are the mods simple? I really don't want to buy the backplate for aesthetic and "passive cooling"
> 
> 
> 
> But the nickel ones are oh-so-shiny!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I realize this isn't a Strix BP, but same effect)
> 
> That being said, I've never actually done it but judging from the pictures online...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could give it a shot with just having the four screws around the GPU core and those two near the VRM sections, but I can't officially say that as a recommendation... So you would need to screw out each of the silvery standoffs on the stock backplate, since they're used to hold the backplate to the PCB from the reverse side.
> 
> Found a guide for you!
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/4upbqx/asus_strix_water_cooling_with_original_backplate/
Click to expand...

I really wished the EK nickel didn't have such a yellowish tint to it.


----------



## Radmanhs

with the tools I have available, I'll probably just say screw it and get a black backplate, since I still have to get an order of most of the fittings i need


----------



## r4ven

Anyone using the EK HDC (Hardline compression fittings) for 16mm OD tubing?
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-16mm-g1-4-elox-black

How snug is the fit?

So far on my test pieces the tightest I can get the things, its still possible to fairly easily rotate the tubing and with a modicum of force; pull the tube out of the fitting.

Mainly, I take my PC to LANS fairly regularly so I'm worried about movement/vibrations causing the tubes to come loose in the fittings and springing a leak.

Can anyone share their experience for my own piece of mind?

Cheers,
raven


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Anyone using the EK HDC (Hardline compression fittings) for 16mm OD tubing?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-16mm-g1-4-elox-black
> 
> How snug is the fit?
> 
> So far on my test pieces the tightest I can get the things, its still possible to fairly easily rotate the tubing and with a modicum of force; pull the tube out of the fitting.
> 
> Mainly, I take my PC to LANS fairly regularly so I'm worried about movement/vibrations causing the tubes to come loose in the fittings and springing a leak.
> 
> Can anyone share their experience for my own piece of mind?
> 
> Cheers,
> raven


Have you checked out the monsoon hardline fittings? The lock collars make them very secure, sounds perfect for a pc that travels.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I really wished the EK nickel didn't have such a yellowish tint to it.


It doesn't.


----------



## r4ven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Have you checked out the monsoon hardline fittings? The lock collars make them very secure, sounds perfect for a pc that travels.


I already purchased/have the EK fittings. Looking for someone else that's used them.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r4ven*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Have you checked out the monsoon hardline fittings? The lock collars make them very secure, sounds perfect for a pc that travels.
> 
> 
> 
> I already purchased/have the EK fittings. Looking for someone else that's used them.
Click to expand...

Oh I see. Well I haven't used those specifically, but the ones I have for another build I'm working on are the way you described. I believe its normal for these types of fittings.


----------



## dervladimir




----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*


You don't see enough matt / black tubing! I love it!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I really wished the EK nickel didn't have such a yellowish tint to it.


None of my EK nickel plated parts have a yellowish tint. Some of the pics I have posted show a yellow tint due to light reflection.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job with that build.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

After Being locked out/up for 2 weeks



Im BACK!! And it feels good









TCO


----------



## eucalyptus

What the ..???

I just drained my test setup with my new reservoir I filled earlier this summer.

The fluid is Phobya Super Zero blue - which has glykol.

Is it the glykol making the Alphacool tube like this?? The water ran out but there were a lot of "lumps" (right word??) with it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What the ..???
> 
> I just drained my test setup with my new reservoir I filled earlier this summer.
> 
> The fluid is *Phobya* Super Zero blue - which has glykol.
> 
> Is it the glykol making the Alphacool tube like this?? The water ran out but there were a lot of "lumps" (right word??) with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Here endeth the lesson.



Stripping down ready for a new project....


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What the ..???
> 
> I just drained my test setup with my new reservoir I filled earlier this summer.
> 
> The fluid is *Phobya* Super Zero blue - which has glykol.
> 
> Is it the glykol making the Alphacool tube like this?? The water ran out but there were a lot of "lumps" (right word??) with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here endeth the lesson.
Click to expand...

Dang. That lesson ended so quickly that I missed it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Phobya....'Fear it!'....

Yup,fear it for good reason.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Phobya....'Fear it!'....
> 
> Yup,fear it for good reason.


Oh come on, give them a break, at least their products are pretty exciting. Yo know, with all the sparks and the flames...


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Phobya....'Fear it!'....
> 
> Yup,fear it for good reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh come on, give them a break, at least their products are pretty exciting. Yo know, with all the sparks and the flames...
Click to expand...


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Dang. That lesson ended so quickly that I missed it.


LOL! I thought I missed something too, then read the rest of the comments









^A few posts up - great ZMT build. Imo, ZMT tubing is underrated and can be quite aesthetically pleasing as well.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Phobya....'Fear it!'....
> 
> Yup,fear it for good reason.


l o l









Well, after this I will skip their fluid. Although, I personally always use Mayhems, always. But this water was sponsored, so didn't mind trying it.

I have asked before, need to know before I order, how many litres, approximately can you "color" with Mayhem 15 ml bottle dye? 4 litres or 10 litres? Between thumb and middle finger


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> l o l
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, after this I will skip their fluid. Although, I personally always use Mayhems, always. But this water was sponsored, so didn't mind trying it.
> 
> I have asked before, need to know before I order, how many litres, approximately can you "color" with Mayhem 15 ml bottle dye? 4 litres or 10 litres? Between thumb and middle finger


*index finger ?

Don't know if that saying works in english.

Roughly estimated/shoot from the hip - perhaps?

Haven't used dye but my guess is that an estimation could be hard to predict since it all depends on what color you'd want...


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> *index finger ?
> 
> Don't know if that saying works in english.
> 
> Roughly estimated/shoot from the hip - perhaps?
> 
> Haven't used dye but my guess is that an estimation could be hard to predict since it all depends on what color you'd want...


I guess you are right xD







*typical swedes*


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Oh wow, I stand corrected and thank you for the info! Look forward to seeing your completed rig


You know I tested this going off the fact that the size of the aurora particles where smaller than the screen in the filter by 10 microns or so. But after your comment you really got me thinking if it's even worth it. And my test was a small loop with only a few drops of the aurora booster in it. Plus with my drain it'll just collect in there to. Well you talked me out of it. So I think that I'm going to go away from the aurora.

Has anyone used the Feser UV black fluid?

Is it transparent black?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/feonef1coflu2.html


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> You know I tested this going off the fact that the size of the aurora particles where smaller than the screen in the filter by 10 microns or so. But after your comment you really got me thinking if it's even worth it. And my test was a small loop with only a few drops of the aurora booster in it. Plus with my drain it'll just collect in there to. Well you talked me out of it. So I think that I'm going to go away from the aurora.
> 
> Has anyone used the Feser UV black fluid?
> 
> Is it transparent black?
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/feonef1coflu2.html


Boooooooooo go for it sorest thing that happens is you have a cool show piece for a few weeks and than flush it. Flushing does suck though. I'm actually going to be using aurora on my build which is not aurora friendly runs but I figure what the hell


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> You know I tested this going off the fact that the size of the aurora particles where smaller than the screen in the filter by 10 microns or so. But after your comment you really got me thinking if it's even worth it. And my test was a small loop with only a few drops of the aurora booster in it. Plus with my drain it'll just collect in there to. Well you talked me out of it. So I think that I'm going to go away from the aurora.
> 
> Has anyone used the Feser UV black fluid?
> 
> Is it transparent black?
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/feonef1coflu2.html
> 
> 
> 
> Boooooooooo go for it sorest thing that happens is you have a cool show piece for a few weeks and than flush it. Flushing does suck though. *I'm actually going to be using aurora on my build which is not aurora friendly runs but I figure what the hell*
Click to expand...

Go for it . . . .

And then you'll be able to rue the day you did, and then tell the next poor sap that he'll rue the day he does it. . . . .

And then he'll rue the day he did . . . . and on and on and on and on . . .

Something about the siren song of aurora, leads soooo many to a water cooling hell.


----------



## skyn3t

have you guys see any build on this case?

SilverStone SST-RVX01BA

My son want this case so bad and I was wondering if the RX360 will fit on the bottom. I know it has space for 3 120mm fan. any input ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Boooooooooo go for it sorest thing that happens is you have a cool show piece for a few weeks and than flush it. Flushing does suck though. I'm actually going to be using aurora on my build *which is not aurora friendly runs but I figure what the hell*


Good Luck and Have fun with that









TCO


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Oh wow, I stand corrected and thank you for the info! Look forward to seeing your completed rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know I tested this going off the fact that the size of the aurora particles where smaller than the screen in the filter by 10 microns or so. But after your comment you really got me thinking if it's even worth it. And my test was a small loop with only a few drops of the aurora booster in it. Plus with my drain it'll just collect in there to. Well you talked me out of it. So I think that I'm going to go away from the aurora.
Click to expand...

Perhaps you should consider doing away with the filter instead? It adds restriction with no real benefit... If you use distilled water or a good coolant, and flush your loop properly before filling it, you shouldn't have that much debris in it anyway.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Oh wow, I stand corrected and thank you for the info! Look forward to seeing your completed rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know I tested this going off the fact that the size of the aurora particles where smaller than the screen in the filter by 10 microns or so. But after your comment you really got me thinking if it's even worth it. And my test was a small loop with only a few drops of the aurora booster in it. Plus with my drain it'll just collect in there to. Well you talked me out of it. So I think that I'm going to go away from the aurora.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Perhaps you should consider doing away with the filter instead? It adds restriction with no real benefit... If you use distilled water or a good coolant, and flush your loop properly before filling it, you shouldn't have that much debris in it anyway.
Click to expand...

This. Filters are great for initial flushing of radiators and that's about it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kenjiwing

Need some advice ol watercooling guys..

I am trying to put 2 radiators together in my case and have run into a issue. I want the 240 to sit on the bottom with the inlet/outlet on the right side next to the 280mm. The problem is the 280mm is like 1-2 M too wide so that the fan hits the fittings. See pics.. anyone know of a good fitting or a trick I can use to fix this? I am half tempted to cut the case up so that the 280mm sits deeper but that would be pretty ugly.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Need some advice ol watercooling guys..
> 
> I am trying to put 2 radiators together in my case and have run into a issue. I want the 240 to sit on the bottom with the inlet/outlet on the right side next to the 280mm. The problem is the 280mm is like 1-2 M too wide so that the fan hits the fittings. See pics.. anyone know of a good fitting or a trick I can use to fix this? I am half tempted to cut the case up so that the 280mm sits deeper but that would be pretty ugly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Use a couple BP triple rotary 90's in offset mode, should just give you what you need.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Thanks for responding diva. Do you know of any builds I could look at for a example? I'm a huge nerd when it comes to the aesthetics and I'm worried it might not look very nice that way.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Thanks for responding diva. Do you know of any builds I could look at for a example? I'm a huge nerd when it comes to the aesthetics and I'm worried it might not look very nice that way.


Not right off hand, If you give a little while, I'll try to turn a couple into offset and stick 'em in a rad so you see what I mean


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Need some advice ol watercooling guys..
> 
> I am trying to put 2 radiators together in my case and have run into a issue. I want the 240 to sit on the bottom with the inlet/outlet on the right side next to the 280mm. The problem is the 280mm is like 1-2 M too wide so that the fan hits the fittings. See pics.. anyone know of a good fitting or a trick I can use to fix this? I am half tempted to cut the case up so that the 280mm sits deeper but that would be pretty ugly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What case is it?


----------



## Kenjiwing

Case is a cooltek w2 is a very uncommon case


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Case is a cooltek w2 is a very uncommon case


I would lift the case slightly and mount either the radiator on the outside or the fans to give me clearance like I did with my fractal design define s.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Thanks for responding diva. Do you know of any builds I could look at for a example? I'm a huge nerd when it comes to the aesthetics and I'm worried it might not look very nice that way.
> 
> 
> 
> Not right off hand, If you give a little while, I'll try to turn a couple into offset and stick 'em in a rad so you see what I mean
Click to expand...

Here ya go, . . .


----------



## Kenjiwing

That might work diva the only concern I have is that the bottom part might still be where the fan needs to mount. Ill have to try to measure it and figure it out.


----------



## Radmanhs

I'll ask here since I probably won't get a response in the cables and sleeving thread. 1 of the terminal holes on a psu connector doesn't want to hold, but the cable is a y cable for ground. Can I just leave it unplugged since that terminal on the mobo is already grounded, just not "double grounded"


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> That might work diva the only concern I have is that the bottom part might still be where the fan needs to mount. Ill have to try to measure it and figure it out.


A little round file on the edge of the fan frame, or a dremel with a sanding drum should get you any little extra nudge you need.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I'll ask here since I probably won't get a response in the cables and sleeving thread. 1 of the terminal holes on a psu connector doesn't want to hold, but the cable is a y cable for ground. Can I just leave it unplugged since that terminal on the mobo is already grounded, just not "double grounded"


Need more info


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I'll ask here since I probably won't get a response in the cables and sleeving thread. 1 of the terminal holes on a psu connector doesn't want to hold, but the cable is a y cable for ground. Can I just leave it unplugged since that terminal on the mobo is already grounded, just not "double grounded"
> 
> 
> 
> Need more info
Click to expand...



terminal 3 on the 24 pin splits to terminal 14 and 6 on the 18 pin. They are all ground, and terminal 14 on my connector isn't locking. Since they are all ground, can I just leave the terminal 6 connected without 14 and not have any issues?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> You know I tested this going off the fact that the size of the aurora particles where smaller than the screen in the filter by 10 microns or so. But after your comment you really got me thinking if it's even worth it. And my test was a small loop with only a few drops of the aurora booster in it. Plus with my drain it'll just collect in there to. Well you talked me out of it. So I think that I'm going to go away from the aurora.
> 
> Has anyone used the Feser UV black fluid?
> 
> Is it transparent black?
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/feonef1coflu2.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Boooooooooo go for it sorest thing that happens is you have a cool show piece for a few weeks and than flush it. Flushing does suck though. I'm actually going to be using aurora on my build which is not aurora friendly runs but I figure what the hell


I'm actually in the middle of this right now. I've got a build log in my sig but I loaded it up with silver Aurora despite having ~15 90° fittings, 2 pairs QDC's, a bay res, 5 separate rads and 2 tube res. It's been an amazing few weeks and I honestly can't wait to tear it apart and clean it.







It's almost time, but everytime I disassemble my QDC's I kick up quite a few particles on the next startup.

To be honest though, the GPU blocks were already due for a cleaning, as well as a few other things so It'd be coming apart soon anyways.




Like Jvillaveces said, maybe do away with the filters until the aurora settles out on it's own, then put them in after you change fluids if you want them. Or don't use Aurora if you'd rather not spend all weekend cleaning your loop


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Need some advice ol watercooling guys..
> 
> I am trying to put 2 radiators together in my case and have run into a issue. I want the 240 to sit on the bottom with the inlet/outlet on the right side next to the 280mm. The problem is the 280mm is like 1-2 M too wide so that the fan hits the fittings. See pics.. anyone know of a good fitting or a trick I can use to fix this? I am half tempted to cut the case up so that the 280mm sits deeper but that would be pretty ugly.


Maybe you could try with offset blocks?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I'll ask here since I probably won't get a response in the cables and sleeving thread. 1 of the terminal holes on a psu connector doesn't want to hold, but the cable is a y cable for ground. Can I just leave it unplugged since that terminal on the mobo is already grounded, just not "double grounded"
> 
> 
> 
> Need more info
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> terminal 3 on the 24 pin splits to terminal 14 and 6 on the 18 pin. They are all ground, and terminal 14 on my connector isn't locking. Since they are all ground, can I just leave the terminal 6 connected without 14 and not have any issues?
Click to expand...

Should be ok. But have you tried bending the wings out?


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I'll ask here since I probably won't get a response in the cables and sleeving thread. 1 of the terminal holes on a psu connector doesn't want to hold, but the cable is a y cable for ground. Can I just leave it unplugged since that terminal on the mobo is already grounded, just not "double grounded"
> 
> 
> 
> Need more info
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> terminal 3 on the 24 pin splits to terminal 14 and 6 on the 18 pin. They are all ground, and terminal 14 on my connector isn't locking. Since they are all ground, can I just leave the terminal 6 connected without 14 and not have any issues?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Should be ok. But have you tried bending the wings out?
Click to expand...

Yep, also pushing it as far as it could go in, wiggling a little, twisting a little, ect. Nothing


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Perhaps you should consider doing away with the filter instead? It adds restriction with no real benefit... If you use distilled water or a good coolant, and flush your loop properly before filling it, you shouldn't have that much debris in it anyway.


I think it's funny everyone says that filters add restriction, and maybe some do. I tested the ones I got and there was no drop in LPH with or without them. And they have already paid off. I cleaned out everything before I put it all together and it's been running for 24 hours with it's first fill of just DI water, leak testing and has already caught a good bit of crap. And I mean I had a garden pump running water through my components for days cleaning them out before I put everything together.


----------



## r4ven

I've added my build log to my sig for those interested in that sort of thing.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1610315/build-log-hardline-virgin-aussie-build-define-s-ekwb-fanboy



I'm currently working on the loop configuration/planning.

I'm doing a predominantly black/white themed build that I'll give some flavour with programmable LED lighting once complete.

It is using the Fractal Define S case and EKWB Water cooling components. It is my first build using hard-line tubing and it is proving to be quite the challenge. I'd love any feedback you have to offer.

Cheers,
rav


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*


you´ll get a rep+ for that. thank you!

and what if I just buy the head unit and replace it with the old one?

have a look here:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/cpu-kuehler/cpu-zubehoer-ersatzteile/16282/alphacool-nexxxos-xp3-deckel-brass-black-crome


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I can tell you right now your entire loop is NOT aluminum, for the simple fact that the XP3 Light block is a copper block. If that's the case, you're probably getting galvanic corrosion in your loop if there is aluminum anywhere in there.
> 
> Good rule to live by is never buy aluminum anything (that has contact with the water in the loop) when it comes to watercooling. Aluminum us great for cases, not for watercooling.


ok, than you are right but it´s so late to buy new parts I will use them untill I buy a new PC.

My GPU(SLI - GTX 780) temps are between 42-44°C and my CPU(i7 3820 Stock clocks) at 52°C when I`m playing BF4...I have in sum 5x140mm rad space and 5 Scythe Ultra Kaze (mostly between 1000-2200rpm - server fans) and my case is open. My pump runs at 80% (D5..) under "game" conditions...therefore I think my CPU cooler is dirty inside which causes such high temps or is it just summer´s fault here in Germany?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> and what if I just buy the head unit and replace it with the old one?
> 
> have a look here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/cpu-kuehler/cpu-zubehoer-ersatzteile/16282/alphacool-nexxxos-xp3-deckel-brass-black-crome


If the CPU block top is damaged, sure. If it is not, a new O-ring will suffice.


----------



## Alastair

Hi guys. I just wanted to pop in with a quickie. I am currently using an XSPC 750 V4 pump/res in my system. I figured a good way to upgrade the performance of the loop would be to buy a more powerful pump instead of buying thicker and denser rads. So I am stuck between 2. I am looking at the EK XRES pump/res combos. So either the D5 or the DDC3.2. Which is the better pump? I am running two GPU's in parallel, a CPU and two rads.


----------



## ruffhi

I thought I read somewhere that flow rate doesn't have much impact on cooling performance.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I thought I read somewhere that flow rate doesn't have much impact on cooling performance.


The Flow of Fluid Passing through a rad does.

1GPM with 1200rpm fans VS 0.5GPM at 800rpm Fans... Something like that will I am pretty sure.

I thought that's why thermalbench does multiple test as different flow Rates?

TCO

Same with Xtremerigs









But Hey, I could Be Wrong


----------



## Alastair

It does from what I know. Especially if you are dipping below 1GPM when the flow stops being turbulent and becomes more laminar.


----------



## ruffhi

If I am reading this chart correctly ...










... from 'R9-290X GPU Waterblock Detailed Testing Results' then I would say that flow rate does impact temperature (higher flow, lower temp). Quadrupling the flow rate (x4 from 0.4 to 1.6) knocks the temperature down by about 4 to 5°C.

Is that a lot? How much will quadrupling the radiator count knock down the tempurature? What about quadrupling the fan speed?

I run my rig at 0.75 gpm but I can crank that up to 1.5 gpm. I'll run some temperature tests over the weekend at various settings. Note to self ... find out how to turn on logging with my Aquaero.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> If I am reading this chart correctly ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... from 'R9-290X GPU Waterblock Detailed Testing Results' then *I would say that flow rate does impact temperature (higher flow, lower temp*). Quadrupling the flow rate (x4 from 0.4 to 1.6) knocks the temperature down by about 4 to 5°C.
> 
> Is that a lot? How much will quadrupling the radiator count knock down the tempurature? What about quadrupling the fan speed?
> 
> I run my rig at 0.75 gpm but I can crank that up to 1.5 gpm. I'll run some temperature tests over the weekend at various settings. Note to self ... find out how to turn on logging with my Aquaero.


Try it out. I figured some of the data that was logged by the site might be of interest to you.









TCO


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Try it out. I figured some of the data that was logged by the site might be of interest to you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


To me, Alastair's original question _(*I figured a good way to upgrade the performance of the loop would be to buy a more powerful pump instead of buying thicker and denser rads*)_ isn't asking if flow speed will influence cooling ability ... it is how best to influence cooling ability ... improve flow, bigger radiators, faster fans, more fans, other?

The info around shows (without a doubt) that ...

better flow ... better cooling

push / pull fans are better at cooling that push fans

higher fan speeds ... better cooling

bigger rads ... better cooling
Once you have built your rig ... some of these options become difficult (ie more radiators) while others are easy (higher fan speeds).

Anyway ... I think I know how to log data from my Aquaero (google and youtube are your friends) so I will see if I can set up some testing scenarios using my rig over the weekend.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I agree with what you are seeing/saying 100%
> 
> So this was super weird reading this email I JUST got a second ago from Zotac, as I have been talking to them about it...
> 
> "John,
> 
> The water enclosure is cooper on the and it is surrounded by aluminum.
> so the water never touches the aluminum.
> 
> Best regards,
> Dan
> Zotac USA"
> 
> That....doesn't make sense? Someone help decipher lol.
> 
> EDIT: are they saying the entire thing is copper? and that the "wrap around" backplate that they advertise is (obviously) aluminum?
> 
> EDIT 2: I emailed the guy a photo I edited with their break-away render, listing what is what and asking what the material is that I am wanting to know. Because I think they are a little confused.
> 
> Here is the photo I sent lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Sorry if I am seeming fanatic about this. It's just almost appalling to me that after all these years, a company would try to sell a product that'll doom their customers - especially when it's been very well established this aluminum business is a big no-no.)


Did you get a reply about this yet as Jayz has done a review but never talks about the subject?


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> If the CPU block top is damaged, sure. If it is not, a new O-ring will suffice.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://www.amazon.de/Ring-5mm-CPU-Alphacool-K%C3%BChler/dp/B004KO28A2



is this correct?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.de/Ring-5mm-CPU-Alphacool-K%C3%BChler/dp/B004KO28A2
> 
> 
> 
> is this correct?


This is the Product Description
Quote:


> This O-ring is a spare gasket for the popular CPU waterblock by Alphacool.Er is inserted *between the cover and the base*. Compatibility: Yellowstone, Livingstone, Niagara, Missouri, XP, XP-Light, Bold, HP Pro delivery: 1x O-Ring 44 x 1,5mm


TCO


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This is the Product Description
> TCO


hahah thank you
















read first, then ask


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Did you get a reply about this yet as Jayz has done a review but never talks about the subject?


Zotac beat around the bush with me on the subject. They rounded back to saying the copper core is nickel plated. Then I gave up trying to communicate with them. I ended up getting an EVGA FTW 1080, as Watercool is making a waterblock for it. I'd rather not risk it just in case.

Two other websites reviewed it. A Japanese site and a Russian site. Both sites had taken the waterblock off and inspected it. But neither had stated anything about the block being aluminum.

I found it interesting that on the actual product, the block internals are black. That might be a thick anodized coating of some sort. I've never actually seen a black block before. So I'm not sure.

I'm glad he did a video on it though.


----------



## Radmanhs

Does anyone know where I can get just the mandrel like the one in this kit?http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-all-pro-deluxe-bender-kit-1-2-x-5-8-16mm.html#Features

I don't need everything else in the kit, but can't find just the mandrels anywhere


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you´ll get a rep+ for that. thank you!
> 
> and what if I just buy the head unit and replace it with the old one?
> 
> have a look here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/cpu-kuehler/cpu-zubehoer-ersatzteile/16282/alphacool-nexxxos-xp3-deckel-brass-black-crome
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I can tell you right now your entire loop is NOT aluminum, for the simple fact that the XP3 Light block is a copper block. If that's the case, you're probably getting galvanic corrosion in your loop if there is aluminum anywhere in there.
> 
> Good rule to live by is never buy aluminum anything (that has contact with the water in the loop) when it comes to watercooling. Aluminum us great for cases, not for watercooling.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ok, than you are right but it´s so late to buy new parts I will use them untill I buy a new PC.
> 
> My GPU(SLI - GTX 780) temps are between 42-44°C and my CPU(i7 3820 Stock clocks) at 52°C when I`m playing BF4...I have in sum 5x140mm rad space and 5 Scythe Ultra Kaze (mostly between 1000-2200rpm - server fans) and my case is open. My pump runs at 80% (D5..) under "game" conditions...therefore I think my CPU cooler is dirty inside which causes such high temps or is it just summer´s fault here in Germany?
Click to expand...

Just as an fyi, no matter what kind of fluid you use your always going to have galvanic corrosion in your loop until you go all aluminum or all copper (or nickel plated copper).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> hahah thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> read first, then ask


NO problem Champ









TCO


----------



## ali13245

Has anyone here ordered mayhems products directly from their website to be shipped to the U.S? I want to buy pastel extreme, and noticed it is cheaper if I get it directly from them rather than PPCs.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Has anyone here ordered mayhems products directly from their website to be shipped to the U.S? I want to buy pastel extreme, and noticed it is cheaper if I get it directly from them rather than PPCs.


Did you include the shipping difference? Mdpc-x is cheaper on their website, but shipping is a b****


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Did you include the shipping difference? Mdpc-x is cheaper on their website, but shipping is a b****


Shipping is only 3.86 UK pounds. In total I would end up paying around $26 shipped. PPCs is selling pastel extreme for like $28 without shipping.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get just the mandrel like the one in this kit?http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-all-pro-deluxe-bender-kit-1-2-x-5-8-16mm.html#Features
> 
> I don't need everything else in the kit, but can't find just the mandrels anywhere


Here's just the mandrels.


----------



## Sem

Hi guys just need some advice on something

afew months ago I made a post about SLI GPU temps with one GPU being 5c hotter than the other when previously they were both the same temp

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/99080_40#post_25309556

i thought it was due to changing my CPU block but it turns out i had algae in both the GPU blocks and after I cleaned it I saw the temp return to being the same I also changed my tubing and coolant (mayhems X1) and flushed my rads with boiling water

anyway it seems the algae is back as GPU 1 is 5 hotter again

when i next strip it down what more can i do to prevent algae

i have been water cooling for years and this is the first time I've had this problem I've always used Mayhems X1 which has biocide so don't know where this has come from


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Zotac beat around the bush with me on the subject. They rounded back to saying the copper core is nickel plated. Then I gave up trying to communicate with them. I ended up getting an EVGA FTW 1080, as Watercool is making a waterblock for it. I'd rather not risk it just in case.
> 
> Two other websites reviewed it. A Japanese site and a Russian site. Both sites had taken the waterblock off and inspected it. But neither had stated anything about the block being aluminum.
> 
> I found it interesting that on the actual product, the block internals are black. That might be a thick anodized coating of some sort. I've never actually seen a black block before. So I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm glad he did a video on it though.


The issue is the video doesn't go into much detail, he just repeats things from the zotac site tbh. He doesn't go on to talk about the construction or anything.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Hi guys just need some advice on something
> 
> afew months ago I made a post about SLI GPU temps with one GPU being 5c hotter than the other when previously they were both the same temp
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/99080_40#post_25309556
> 
> i thought it was due to changing my CPU block but it turns out i had algae in both the GPU blocks and after I cleaned it I saw the temp return to being the same I also changed my tubing and coolant (mayhems X1) and flushed my rads with boiling water
> 
> anyway it seems the algae is back as GPU 1 is 5 hotter again
> 
> when i next strip it down what more can i do to prevent algae
> 
> i have been water cooling for years and this is the first time I've had this problem I've always used Mayhems X1 which has biocide so don't know where this has come from


Contact mayhems about the issue to see what they can do to help/inform them of the issue so they can stop it happening in the future. Any pics of the algae? Could it not have been flux etc from your rads?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Hi guys just need some advice on something
> 
> afew months ago I made a post about SLI GPU temps with one GPU being 5c hotter than the other when previously they were both the same temp
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/99080_40#post_25309556
> 
> i thought it was due to changing my CPU block but it turns out i had algae in both the GPU blocks and after I cleaned it I saw the temp return to being the same I also changed my tubing and coolant (mayhems X1) and flushed my rads with boiling water
> 
> anyway it seems the algae is back as GPU 1 is 5 hotter again
> 
> when i next strip it down what more can i do to prevent algae
> 
> i have been water cooling for years and this is the first time I've had this problem I've always used Mayhems X1 which has biocide so don't know where this has come from


Is it possible to change coolants to see if that is the problem? Using possibly just distilled with something like PT Nuke?

TCO


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get just the mandrel like the one in this kit?http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-all-pro-deluxe-bender-kit-1-2-x-5-8-16mm.html#Features
> 
> I don't need everything else in the kit, but can't find just the mandrels anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> Here's just the mandrels.
Click to expand...

Dang, wish I could get just 1 or 2 for like $20 instead of $40 lol


----------



## galletabah

Hi guys!

See my pc!

















And you can see the build log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1606856/sponsored-project-matx-ser-n-005-galletabah

galletabah


----------



## krutoydiesel

Question, and this may be stupid.

Is an anti-corrosive agent needed in a loop with pure distilled, copper and nickel plated copper blocks/rads, with a few drops of PT nuke?


----------



## derickwm

Almost all of my build logs have been shot on my trusty Nikon D7000 that I bought in 2011... today I received my new camera that will be replacing it 

Sony A7S II + Sony 24-70 F2.8










Lots of video content coming soon! (and pictures still of course)


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Question, and this may be stupid.
> 
> Is an anti-corrosive agent needed in a loop with pure distilled, copper and nickel plated copper blocks/rads, with a few drops of PT nuke?


I would use a few drops just to be safe.


----------



## figgie

I have two...

My just finished wife's build...

Thermaltake P5 case
Aquacomputer airplex modularity 280mm rad with built in aquacomputer D5 w/aquabus
Ekwb evo supremacy x99 cup block
Thermaltake Riing 14 x 5
Asus GeForce 1060 strix
Thermaltake dps g RGB 80 gold osu
5960x cup
64gb dominator platinum 2666 mhz.
Wall mounted


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Hi guys. I just wanted to pop in with a quickie. I am currently using an XSPC 750 V4 pump/res in my system. I figured a good way to upgrade the performance of the loop would be to buy a more powerful pump instead of buying thicker and denser rads. So I am stuck between 2. I am looking at the EK XRES pump/res combos. So either the D5 or the DDC3.2. Which is the better pump? I am running two GPU's in parallel, a CPU and two rads.


One thing to consider is that the XSPC 750 is not the greatest pump in terms of quality/longevity.

Regardless of whether you were to get a D5 or DDC, you would be getting a much better pump upgrade.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Has anyone here ordered mayhems products directly from their website to be shipped to the U.S? I want to buy pastel extreme, and noticed it is cheaper if I get it directly from them rather than PPCs.


I just bought five Mayhems Havoc rads, directly from them, with the included coolant and cleaner kits, and it was a very good deal.
They shipped them by Fedex for a reasonable rate.

In terms of service, Mayhems is fantastic, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.


----------



## figgie

Build two which the cup and memory hot transplanted to wife's build





That old build...

Caselabs th10a
Cpu: Intel i7-5960x
Memory: corsair dominator platinum 2666
Motherboard: ASUS rampage V Extreme
Cpu cooling: ekwb evo supreme x99, aquacomputer airplex modularity 360mm, 6x thermaltake Riing 12,aquacomputer aqualis 200mm reservoir with aquacomputer D5 w/aquabus
Cooling computer: aquacomputer 6 xt
Gpu: ASUS Ares III
Gpu cooling: aquacomputer airplex modularity 280mm, 4 x thermaltake Riing 14, aquacomputer aqualis 200mm reservoir with aquacomputer D5 w/aquabus
Power Supply: corsair AX1500i


----------



## ali13245

Can someone help me out? So I have been running mayhems pastel extreme + non stain yellow dye for nearly 10 months now. As you can see from the photo below, The left reservoir has more of "watery" look than the right reservoir which has more of a "creamy" look. When I initially filled this loop last year, the colors both looked like the right reservoir, even the right reservoir has slightly changed color but not to the extent of the left reservoir. I noticed this problem probably 1 or 2 months after I initially filled the loop but I didn't think too much about it, so around may I decided to drain the coolant from both loops and ran some distilled water a couple of times until everything cleared out, and then I filled it back with the same yellow coolant that I was using, but this time I added like 250ml of distilled water to the already 2.25-2.5L of yellow coolant that I had started out with. So I filled the loops back up and they both had the creamy look for a while, and then as you can see below it happened again. Before anyone asks, yes I cleaned the s**t out of both radiators. I rinsed both radiators with distilled water like 30 times each! If anyone can help out, I would greatly appreciate it.

Left reservoir: GPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS560)
Right reservoir: CPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS480)


----------



## Shobai

Built up a spare rig for my workshop with leftover parts over the last week or so. Nothing flash, but should be serviceable.

The thing I love about 140.n radiators is how nicely they slot into 5 1/4" bays - I put a strip of sticky backed foam on each side of the bay, then the 280mm radiator just slides in neatly - no muss, no fuss.


----------



## LiquidHaus

@derickwm

i'm hoping you'll appreciate this.

Xidax's new show system - Typhon


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Can someone help me out? So I have been running mayhems pastel extreme + non stain yellow dye for nearly 10 months now. As you can see from the photo below, The left reservoir has more of "watery" look than the right reservoir which has more of a "creamy" look. When I initially filled this loop last year, the colors both looked like the right reservoir, even the right reservoir has slightly changed color but not to the extent of the left reservoir. I noticed this problem probably 1 or 2 months after I initially filled the loop but I didn't think too much about it, so around may I decided to drain the coolant from both loops and ran some distilled water a couple of times until everything cleared out, and then I filled it back with the same yellow coolant that I was using, but this time I added like 250ml of distilled water to the already 2.25-2.5L of yellow coolant that I had started out with. So I filled the loops back up and they both had the creamy look for a while, and then as you can see below it happened again. Before anyone asks, yes I cleaned the s**t out of both radiators. I rinsed both radiators with distilled water like 30 times each! If anyone can help out, I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> Left reservoir: GPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS560)
> Right reservoir: CPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS480)


Looks a lot like Jayz skunkworks from that picture


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Looks a lot like Jayz skunkworks from that picture


Sure does that was my first thought too


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Can someone help me out? So I have been running mayhems pastel extreme + non stain yellow dye for nearly 10 months now. As you can see from the photo below, The left reservoir has more of "watery" look than the right reservoir which has more of a "creamy" look. When I initially filled this loop last year, the colors both looked like the right reservoir, even the right reservoir has slightly changed color but not to the extent of the left reservoir. I noticed this problem probably 1 or 2 months after I initially filled the loop but I didn't think too much about it, so around may I decided to drain the coolant from both loops and ran some distilled water a couple of times until everything cleared out, and then I filled it back with the same yellow coolant that I was using, but this time I added like 250ml of distilled water to the already 2.25-2.5L of yellow coolant that I had started out with. So I filled the loops back up and they both had the creamy look for a while, and then as you can see below it happened again. Before anyone asks, yes I cleaned the s**t out of both radiators. I rinsed both radiators with distilled water like 30 times each! If anyone can help out, I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> Left reservoir: GPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS560)
> Right reservoir: CPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS480)


I'm going to guess the particles are dropping out of the loop, possibly caught in the blocks and rad, possible that the pump speed isn't enough to keep the particles in suspension. Is it possible to increase the pump speed?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Try it out. I figured some of the data that was logged by the site might be of interest to you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> I think I know how to log data from my Aquaero (google and youtube are your friends) so I will see if I can set up some testing scenarios using my rig over the weekend.
Click to expand...

I'm working from home today so I am able to run some folding on my home PC while I work. The only wrinkle is that I can't run the fans above 1000rpms because it is too noisy.

I started with my pedestal fans at 500rpm and my flow at 0.75 gpm for 30 minutes. I then increased the fans to 1000rpm (30 mins). Next step was going to be 1500rpm ... but I had a couple of phone calls. So ... I pulled the fans back to 500rpm and flow up to 1.5 gpm. Coming back to this after about 15 minutes it appeared that the temps were worse(!) with the higher flow. But it could have just been a more stressful fold situation.

So ... after letting them run at 500 / 1.5 for 30 minutes I pulled the flow back to 0.75 gpm ... and the water delta started to drop! Not much ... but some. You can't really see it in the CPU delta ... it is certainly there in the water delta. I'll provide a full update with charts and stuff once I have stopped all of the runs and exported my logged data.

I think we forgot that the pumps add heat to the water ... more pump action, more heat.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm working from home today so I am able to run some folding on my home PC while I work. The only wrinkle is that I can't run the fans above 1000rpms because it is too noisy.
> 
> I started with my pedestal fans at 500rpm and my flow at 0.75 gpm for 30 minutes. I then increased the fans to 1000rpm (30 mins). Next step was going to be 1500rpm ... but I had a couple of phone calls. So ... I pulled the fans back to 500rpm and flow up to 1.5 gpm. Coming back to this after about 15 minutes it appeared that the temps were worse(!) with the higher flow. But it could have just been a more stressful fold situation.
> 
> So ... after letting them run at 500 / 1.5 for 30 minutes I pulled the flow back to 0.75 gpm ... and the water delta started to drop! Not much ... but some. You can't really see it in the CPU delta ... it is certainly there in the water delta. I'll provide a full update with charts and stuff once I have stopped all of the runs and exported my logged data.
> 
> I think we forgot that the pumps add heat to the water ... more pump action, more heat.


1.. Type of Fans
2. Rads and Fin Density in question.
3. Pump description?

TCO


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 1. Type of Fans
> 2. Rads and Fin Density in question.
> 3. Pump description?
> 
> TCO


Does this make a difference? It isn't as if I am swapping fans, rads or pumps between runs.

Cryorig QF120 Balanced (push only, 3 per rad)

Rated Speed 330 ~ 1600 RPM ±10 %

Noise Level 10 ~ 25 dBA

Air Flow 49 CFM

Air Pressure 1.65 mmH20


2 x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 120.3 Multiport Satin White Radiator (white with white fins)

9 fins per inch


2 x Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with RPM Signal

2 x Watercool HEATKILLER® D5-TOP

More build info here.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> *Does this make a difference? It isn't as if I am swapping fans, rads or pumps between runs*.
> 
> Cryorig QF120 Balanced (push only, 3 per rad)
> 
> Rated Speed 330 ~ 1600 RPM ±10 %
> 
> Noise Level 10 ~ 25 dBA
> 
> Air Flow 49 CFM
> 
> Air Pressure 1.65 mmH20
> 
> 
> 2 x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 120.3 Multiport Satin White Radiator (white with white fins)
> 
> 9 fins per inch
> 
> 
> 2 x Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with RPM Signal
> 
> 2 x Watercool HEATKILLER® D5-TOP
> 
> More build info here.


It may not, but for the community it might be of Relevance to someone.

TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Looks a lot like Jayz skunkworks from that picture


Yeah skunkworks was the main ispiration of this build. I'm currently in the process of changing the entire loop, I've been really interested in doing a black and white theme for a while now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm going to guess the particles are dropping out of the loop, possibly caught in the blocks and rad, possible that the pump speed isn't enough to keep the particles in suspension. Is it possible to increase the pump speed?


I currently have both pumps set to the 3rd step. Is it possible my blocks are clogged up? My temps have been fine for the entire time I have had the loop running.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> If I am reading this chart correctly ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... from 'R9-290X GPU Waterblock Detailed Testing Results' then I would say that flow rate does impact temperature (higher flow, lower temp). Quadrupling the flow rate (x4 from 0.4 to 1.6) knocks the temperature down by about 4 to 5°C.
> 
> Is that a lot? How much will quadrupling the radiator count knock down the tempurature? What about quadrupling the fan speed?
> 
> I run my rig at 0.75 gpm but I can crank that up to 1.5 gpm. I'll run some temperature tests over the weekend at various settings. Note to self ... find out how to turn on logging with my Aquaero.


4 to 5C in water temp could be the difference between 100MHz in your cpu overclock, or it could make no difference depending on where your overclock sits. Like anything you will always see a diminishing rate of return, you just have to find the sweet spot for your build and personal preference. Its the same with rads and fans. At some point the rad space, or noise of the fans or pump, don't justify the minor gains in temp for a particular build(er). I personally run my D5 vario pump at medium speed and my fans on low speed all of the time because silence is priority one for me. I only have 2 x 280mm rads because space and aesthetics are also important to me.

I't would be cool to see an analysis of your system at different fan speeds and flow rates. More information is always better for the collective knowledge.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Hi guys. I just wanted to pop in with a quickie. I am currently using an XSPC 750 V4 pump/res in my system. I figured a good way to upgrade the performance of the loop would be to buy a more powerful pump instead of buying thicker and denser rads. So I am stuck between 2. I am looking at the EK XRES pump/res combos. So either the D5 or the DDC3.2. Which is the better pump? I am running two GPU's in parallel, a CPU and two rads.
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to consider is that the XSPC 750 is not the greatest pump in terms of quality/longevity.
> 
> Regardless of whether you were to get a D5 or DDC, you would be getting a much better pump upgrade.
Click to expand...

You might say that. But my experience has been the complete opposite. I have had this unit since 2013. It has performed solidly in the three years I have had it. It has never skipped a beat. Even when I mounted it to a rheostat and fed it 15V to get more flow rate out of it. It is has been a dependeble pump to say the least. Maybe not the most powerful. But it certainly reliable. As far as I am aware a lot of the reliability problems were ironed out by V4. I heard V1's and 2's were problematic but not the V4's.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Can someone help me out? So I have been running mayhems pastel extreme + non stain yellow dye for nearly 10 months now. As you can see from the photo below, The left reservoir has more of "watery" look than the right reservoir which has more of a "creamy" look. When I initially filled this loop last year, the colors both looked like the right reservoir, even the right reservoir has slightly changed color but not to the extent of the left reservoir. I noticed this problem probably 1 or 2 months after I initially filled the loop but I didn't think too much about it, so around may I decided to drain the coolant from both loops and ran some distilled water a couple of times until everything cleared out, and then I filled it back with the same yellow coolant that I was using, but this time I added like 250ml of distilled water to the already 2.25-2.5L of yellow coolant that I had started out with. So I filled the loops back up and they both had the creamy look for a while, and then as you can see below it happened again. Before anyone asks, yes I cleaned the s**t out of both radiators. I rinsed both radiators with distilled water like 30 times each! If anyone can help out, I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> Left reservoir: GPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS560)
> Right reservoir: CPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS480)


Coolant temp has exceeded 35-40c. Pastel sucks when it goes over a certain temp,it starts to change colour.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Coolant temp has exceeded 35-40c. Pastel sucks when it goes over a certain temp,it starts to change colour.


So does that mean I don't need to replace my blocks and radiators? Also, If I want to change the coolant, will a distilled water flush do the job?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> So does that mean I don't need to replace my blocks and radiators? Also, If I want to change the coolant, will a distilled water flush do the job?


With Pastel? That's a pull and shake job,a simple flush doesnt get that crap out. Stick to clear coolant or if you must have colour then a clear dye. I recommend XSPC coolant if colour is a must.

And no,you dont have to change anything....why would you change up $100's of kit for a $20 bottle of poxy coolant?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> So does that mean I don't need to replace my blocks and radiators? Also, If I want to change the coolant, will a distilled water flush do the job?


A distilled water flush will only do so much, you will have to flush multiple Gallons of water through to get rid of the colour (As I've just done this exact thing with my SMA8) so that it is crystal clear. After running 1.5Gallons per loop I still have a blue and green tint to each loop in the SMA8. I figure another 1.5 Gallons per loop will make it crystal clear.


Spoiler: Photo for Reference







BNEG is correct, please don't change your hardware because of FLUID. It would be easier to just dismantle, clean, shake, Reinstall, then Run straight distilled with a biocide of your liking.









TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> With Pastel? That's a pull and shake job,a simple flush doesnt get that crap out. Stick to clear coolant or if you must have colour then a clear dye. I recommend XSPC coolant if colour is a must.
> 
> And no,you dont have to change anything....why would you change up $100's of kit for a $20 bottle of poxy coolant?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A distilled water flush will only do so much, you will have to flush multiple Gallons of water through to get rid of the colour (As I've just done this exact thing with my SMA8) so that it is crystal clear. After running 1.5Gallons per loop I still have a blue and green tint to each loop in the SMA8. I figure another 1.5 Gallons per loop will make it crystal clear.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Photo for Reference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BNEG is correct, please don't change your hardware because of FLUID. It would be easier to just dismantle, clean, shake, Reinstall, then Run straight distilled with a biocide of your liking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thanks for the advice guys, really appreciate the help







I think I might get mayhems blitz cleaning system seeing as a lot of people have said good things about it.

Btw, TCO are you using distilled water right now or a colored coolant?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys, really appreciate the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I might get mayhems blitz cleaning system seeing as a lot of people have said good things about it.
> 
> Btw, TCO are you using distilled water right now or a colored coolant?


I am using distilled with a couple drops of PT Nuke









I fear I am past the point of no return for Aurora and Pastel...

This is the Last item I have looked at and decided on for Coolant Colour if you are interested.

Infused

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Isn't it ironic that a certain YouTuber took a lot of flack over Aurora issues for saying what he didn't say and people are having problems with it this far down the line.









Not that I ever used the stuff or have a dog in the fight.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Isn't it ironic that a certain YouTuber took a lot of flack over Aurora issues for saying what he didn't say and people are having problems with it this far down the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I ever used the stuff or have a dog in the fight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Now Ceadder, Listen Here.

I "Tested" the Aurora 2 and It worked. The particles remained in the loop for 8 months as was the plan to prove that they were proficient for more than 1 month as people were seeing them "Disappear" far faster than that, so In terms of the Aurora working, Yes, yes It did.

It brought sparkles (Pun Intended) to peoples eyes as they took a gander inside my S3 that is at my desk inside the dealership.

Is the Aurora effect worth having or keeping an eye on for $ / Bottle.... Not in my opinion. The Clean up is much like Pastel, Tedious flushing.

TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am using distilled with a couple drops of PT Nuke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fear I am past the point of no return for Aurora and Pastel...
> 
> This is the Last item I have looked at and decided on for Coolant Colour if you are interested.
> 
> Infused
> 
> TCO


Thanks







I have both PT Nuke CU and PHN. Does it matter which one I use? Also, did you take apart your loop and clean the blocks and radiators, or did you just keep flushing with distilled water until your loop became crystal clear and just refilled with distilled water + PT Nuke?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both PT Nuke CU and PHN. Does it matter which one I use? Also, did you take apart your loop and clean the blocks and radiators, or *did you just keep flushing with distilled water until your loop became crystal clear* and just refilled with distilled water + PT Nuke?


Clear, Not Crystal yet, as I was letting you and the community know there still remains a blue and green tint per loop.

I have no clue what PHN is nor would I think of that. I have PT Nuke on my desk in front of me.

TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Clear, Not Crystal yet, as I was letting you and the community know there still remains a blue and green tint per loop.
> 
> I have no clue what PHN is nor would I think of that. I have PT Nuke on my desk in front of me.
> 
> TCO


Is your PT Nuke fluid blue or clear? Did you clean your blocks and radiators prior to refilling your loop again?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Is your PT Nuke fluid blue or clear? Did you clean your blocks and radiators prior to refilling your loop again?


PT Nuke fluid is Blue. And hell no, I didn't clean anything.

TCO


----------



## ali13245

Thanks again







It looks like you are using the *Copper Sulphate* based version of PT Nuke.

I was reading up on how to clean blocks on EK's website and I came across this:

"Refrain from using *Copper Sulphate* based additives in your loop in order to prevent tarnishing on your water cooling gear internals!"

https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/

Should I just stick with using PT Nuke PHN (Benzalkonium Chloride)?


----------



## rediornot

I have the deep cool captain 240, the pump looks like a steam punk design and has a clear tube with red liquid running through it. the red backlight pulses like it is breathing. the 2 tubes go up to the radiator which is 240 mm and has 2 120mm fans on it which run quietly. running heaven benchmark in ultra extreme and folding at home in full at the same time cpu was 63c.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like you are using the *Copper Sulphate* based version of PT Nuke.
> 
> I was reading up on how to clean blocks on EK's website and I came across this:
> 
> "Refrain from using *Copper Sulphate* based additives in your loop in order to prevent tarnishing on your water cooling gear internals!"
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/
> 
> Should I just stick with using PT Nuke PHN (Benzalkonium Chloride)?


Well Ill be damned! Check you out!



I had No idea. I supposed once I pick up some more distilled, I will flush the loop again and get some of the PT Nuke out, but Tarnishing would imply a discolouration of the Materials (Nickle, Copper) and could be reversed with a polish, yes?

Stick to the PHN if you wish









TCO


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well Ill be damned! Check you out!
> 
> 
> 
> I had No idea. I supposed once I pick up some more distilled, I will flush the loop again and get some of the PT Nuke out, but Tarnishing would imply a discolouration of the Materials (Nickle, Copper) and could be reversed with a polish, yes?
> 
> Stick to the PHN if you wish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


No problem







I believe EK stated on that page, that you can polish the Nickel plating, just not sure if it would help out with tarnishing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> No problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe EK stated on that page, that you can polish the Nickel plating, just not sure if it would help out with tarnishing.


I could assume they are implying to polish the nickle before using the copper sulfate to postpone the Tarnish effect that would take place no matter what.

I know very little of chemical reactions.







More of a pro with leaking problems.









TCO


----------



## Bogga

Considering the conversation about pastel from these last pages this feels somewhat awkward... but here goes!

Finished my build this evening and filled her up. No leaks from what I can tell after 1.5 hours of circulation.

As you can see, I've prepared for dual loop















I havent done the pwm-mod so I suppose it's running at 60%. How long do you think it'll take until the air in the cpu block is history?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Bogga

Pretty brave doing your leak test with the white coolant instead of using distilled water.

Have you tried tilting the case around multiple directions to get more of the air out?

TCO


----------



## Kimir

Pretty brave to do leak testing with coolant, imo.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Pretty brave to do leak testing with coolant, imo.


Especially as you can make a pressure tester for peanuts.....

I have only been saying this since forever,even showed them how to do it too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Especially as you can make a pressure tester for peanuts.....
> 
> I have only been saying this since forever,even showed them how to do it too.


Yo B Neg! You missed me??











TCO


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Especially as you can make a pressure tester for peanuts.....
> 
> I have only been saying this since forever,even showed them how to do it too.


Yup, thank you for that again!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yo B Neg! You missed me??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You went somewhere?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You went somewhere?


I suppose an acknowledgement is worth more than anything.









TCO


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Bogga
> 
> Pretty brave doing your leak test with the white coolant instead of using distilled water.
> 
> Have you tried tilting the case around multiple directions to get more of the air out?
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Pretty brave to do leak testing with coolant, imo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Especially as you can make a pressure tester for peanuts.....
> 
> I have only been saying this since forever,even showed them how to do it too.


I know... just couldn't contain myself... been waiting since may to get this done

About the cpu... been tilting this heavy mother (just the case weighs in at 19kg) back and forth, up and down... got most of it out. Guess I'll just have to wait now!

Any other opinions besides my Not So Cautious method?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Can someone help me out? So I have been running mayhems pastel extreme + non stain yellow dye for nearly 10 months now. As you can see from the photo below, The left reservoir has more of "watery" look than the right reservoir which has more of a "creamy" look. When I initially filled this loop last year, the colors both looked like the right reservoir, even the right reservoir has slightly changed color but not to the extent of the left reservoir. I noticed this problem probably 1 or 2 months after I initially filled the loop but I didn't think too much about it, so around may I decided to drain the coolant from both loops and ran some distilled water a couple of times until everything cleared out, and then I filled it back with the same yellow coolant that I was using, but this time I added like 250ml of distilled water to the already 2.25-2.5L of yellow coolant that I had started out with. So I filled the loops back up and they both had the creamy look for a while, and then as you can see below it happened again. Before anyone asks, yes I cleaned the s**t out of both radiators. I rinsed both radiators with distilled water like 30 times each! If anyone can help out, I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> Left reservoir: GPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS560)
> Right reservoir: CPU Loop (Hardware labs nemesis GTS480)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This might be a heat issue since GPUs push out a ton of it. The heat is changing the color more-so than the CPU loop. That's my guesstimate.

I am a little late to the party. B-neg beat me to it.


----------



## ruffhi

Here is a (confusing) chart following initial testing. I'm not completely happy with the results (see below) so I am running the tests again.

A couple of comments and observations ...

fan rpm is on the right access

flow is x10 to give it some scale

all other lines are temperature

time down the bottom / x-axis

high flow is wobbly (technical term) while low flow is solid ... why?

interesting to see that 500 rpm and low flow shows markedly different temps (37°C on the left and 42°C ~10:30)

air temp is inside the case, intake to pedestal fans ... the pedestal has 6 in-take fans and one exhaust fan (all controlled by the same aquaero port)
interesting to see that air temp kicks up / down just after rpm change

not a lot of CPU temp differences between 1500 and max (1700) rpms


----------



## Radmanhs

that moment when you realize you got an x-flow rad instead of a normal one... I can make this work


----------



## LiquidHaus

For those interested in the Zotac 1080 Arctic Storm, finally got an answer about the block material:



That being said, the aluminum is coated pretty heavily. Not sure with what though. But the black on it does look good.

Just thought I'd share this info I got from them.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> For those interested in the Zotac 1080 Arctic Storm, finally got an answer about the block material:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That being said, the aluminum is coated pretty heavily. Not sure with what though. But the black on it does look good.
> 
> Just thought I'd share this info I got from them.


I'm not sure because that still sounds like the block is nickel plated black nickel to be precise and the rest of the block cover on the acrylic. Until someone has one in their hands and it willing to test it in salt water we won't know.


----------



## Radmanhs

does anyone have the dimensions of a 90 degree dual rotary fitting by bitspower? All I can find are dimensions for it in the offset design and I want to know the difference compared to the single rotary version


----------



## jlakai

16mm Touch Aqua / Bitspower fittings. These fittings are not of Bitspower Quality. All aluminum, threads seem fragile. Came with this wrench that doesn't fit anywhere.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah aluminum threads, like brass, are fragile and easy to mess up/strip


----------



## KuKIE

Here is a watercooled PC I built from a bunch of broken parts that got repaired for a second chance at life plus some used parts laying around minus the rads/fans/power supply which I purchased individually when they came on sale.





Functionally it is pretty much complete, I will be doing some more cosmetic work to it next summer.
I also left room for dual GPU for when I eventually buy a new card for my other PC.

The inspiration for the theme of the build came from my experience working as an automotive tech for over a decade.

Check out the Build Log - Y2K Hardware Ready


----------



## ruffhi

More testing. Graph shown above is pretty similar to the new graph. I pulled out the CPU v Ambient Air delta. The interesting thing for my build is that more a flow of 1.5gpm puts more heat into the liquid than a flow of 0.75gpm. Also, going from 500rpm to 1000rpm gives me all the cooling I need. I can get more over 1000rpm but not much ... and the expense of more noise. Seems my sweet spot is 400-700rpms which is exactly where I was planning on sitting.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The interesting thing for my build is that more a flow of 1.5gpm puts more heat into the liquid than a flow of 0.75gpm.


That is to be expected as your pump(s) will be generating more heat at higher pump drive levels.


----------



## aaronstransam

Anyone know what's going on with Monsoon economy hardline fittings? Tried getting 2 more and performance pc doesn't even list them, called and they said no word on when when new stock would be in. Something about working on new version. F cpu had 1 in matte black. Looks like I have to hide a glossy one in the basement somewhere.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> More testing. Graph shown above is pretty similar to the new graph. I pulled out the CPU v Ambient Air delta. The interesting thing for my build is that more a flow of 1.5gpm puts more heat into the liquid than a flow of 0.75gpm. Also, going from 500rpm to 1000rpm gives me all the cooling I need. I can get more over 1000rpm but not much ... and the expense of more noise. Seems my sweet spot is 400-700rpms which is exactly where I was planning on sitting.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just curious, what RPMs on your pump correlate to 0.75 and 1.5 gpm in your build? I'm running my D5 vario at 3300RPM all the time.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Anyone know what's going on with Monsoon economy hardline fittings? Tried getting 2 more and performance pc doesn't even list them, called and they said no word on when when new stock would be in. Something about working on new version. F cpu had 1 in matte black. Looks like I have to hide a glossy one in the basement somewhere.


Those fittings were discontinued. They have some new v2 fittings that should be hitting ppcs in the next couple of weeks. The new ones will have an option to have some engraving work done. There are some pics a few pages back in the monsoon thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm not sure because that still sounds like the block is nickel plated black nickel to be precise and the rest of the block cover on the acrylic. Until someone has one in their hands and it willing to test it in salt water we won't know.


If its Alu then its anodized rather than nickel plated...


----------



## chromeMKvii

This is my first attempt at custom loop water cooling. I took a lot of inspiration from Skunkworks (JayZtwocents' fancypants PC, for those that don't recognize the name) It took a lot of time, but it came together with no hiccups, and I'm very pleased with the results both functionally and aesthetically. I've got another rig built in an INWIN 808 that uses an H100i which I might post later on. Feedback welcome!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You took waterloop advice from Jay2pence the Pootuber?

Really?


----------



## Radmanhs

just to make sure, this will work, right?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chromeMKvii*
> 
> This is my first attempt at custom loop water cooling. I took a lot of inspiration from Skunkworks (JayZtwocents' fancypants PC, for those that don't recognize the name) It took a lot of time, but it came together with no hiccups, and I'm very pleased with the results both functionally and aesthetically. I've got another rig built in an INWIN 808 that uses an H100i which I might post later on. Feedback welcome!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good







Did you remember to take the jet plate out of the cpu block? It will kill the aurora really quick. The 90's aren't great for it either, but I think it's been improved in the last year or so. Let us know how long the effect lasts.


----------



## chromeMKvii

The aurora effect has already diminished pretty heavily since these photos have been taken. I have double 250 reservoirs, so there's (hindsightedly) a lot of slow moving current in the back half of the second tank. It seems to settle there if I'm not careful to ramp up the flow rate every now and again and shake things up.


----------



## chromeMKvii

I take it you don't hold him in particularly high esteem? Either way, I was able to glean enough useful information from him, and others (such as the fine community here) to be able to put together a quite satisfactory first custom loop. I got a lot of criticism when I stated that I was going to make it a parallel loop, rather than have all the components inline, but so far I'm quite happy with the results.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chromeMKvii*
> 
> I take it you don't hold him in particularly high esteem? Either way, I was able to glean enough useful information from him, and others (such as the fine community here) to be able to put together a quite satisfactory first custom loop. I got a lot of criticism when I stated that I was going to make it a parallel loop, rather than have all the components inline, but so far I'm quite happy with the results.


Doing a fully parallel loop is fine,taking watercooling advice from him? Less so.


----------



## Killa Cam

I like jay from jayztwocents. I dont particularly agree with some of his methods such as drilling into motherboards, but i commend him for providing a platform and explaining the intricacies of custom water cooling to the best of his abilities.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Doing a fully parallel loop is fine,taking watercooling advice from him? Less so.


Well then why dont you get on that poop tube and show em how its done? And bring magoo, he'll solidify a substantial amount of subscribers for sure.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Just curious, what RPMs on your pump correlate to 0.75 and 1.5 gpm in your build? I'm running my D5 vario at 3300RPM all the time.


1.5 is flat out (4800 or so) and 0.75 is 2500.


----------



## Stateless

I have a general question that I was hoping to get advice on. I just installed a 2nd loop to have my GPU and CPU on different loops. Been bleeding them to get air bubbles out, but I know this can take a while, especially to get the micro bubbles out. On both of my res's, I have a fill port to add coolant as needed. On the end I have a stop plug. Should I have them on loosely so any air from bubbles that are being pushed through can escape or should I leave them tightened down?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I have a general question that I was hoping to get advice on. I just installed a 2nd loop to have my GPU and CPU on different loops. Been bleeding them to get air bubbles out, but I know this can take a while, especially to get the micro bubbles out. On both of my res's, I have a fill port to add coolant as needed. On the end I have a stop plug. Should I have them on loosely so any air from bubbles that are being pushed through can escape or should I leave them tightened down?


I leave my plugs tight as a button. When the water goes down enough, I then loosen them and refill









Leaving them tight creates pressure.

TCO


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just to make sure, this will work, right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you really plan to make the pump stay this way? Because it's upside down and I wouldn't do this.








And for your loop configuration, I don't know, isn't the cpu was missed during paint?


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just to make sure, this will work, right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you really plan to make the pump stay this way? Because it's upside down and I wouldn't do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for your loop configuration, I don't know, isn't the cpu was missed during paint?
Click to expand...

Does it really matter if it's "upside down"? since thats the only way I can fit the pump









I didn't paint the rest because I was lazy, also it will just be in a serial config, so there won't be any problems there. Just wondering since this seems like an odd parallel config for the gpu, which as far as I know will work fine, but I just wanted to make sure before I go out and spend half a fortune on fittings


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Does it really matter if it's "upside down"? since thats the only way I can fit the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering since this seems like an odd parallel config for the gpu, which as far as I know will work fine, but I just wanted to make sure before I go out and spend half a fortune on fittings


umm that pump will have issues running upside down like that, that is the only orientation that you are not supposed to put it in.

Also I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to do with the GPU? Are you putting 2-tees in one line and running both to the gpu?


----------



## Kimir

I'd never run a pump upside down this way myself, I'm no expert so here is EK manual that says not to do this, I tried to look for BP manual, but they doesn't seems to provide any pdf online.
It was implied with my question about the cpu because I don't quite see what the entire loop configuration will look like they way you draw it.

What you draw look like venturi to me, it will suck all the water from the gpu when the flow will go up, perhaps I don't get your paint skill tho.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Getting there. Case is painted:


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Does it really matter if it's "upside down"? since thats the only way I can fit the pump


You can run a d5 upside down. You'll run into problems if you aren't very careful to get all of the air bled out of the pump, but other that that it's fine.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> You can run a d5 upside down. You'll run into problems if you aren't very careful to get all of the air bled out of the pump, but other that that it's fine.


Hmm not sure because well... here is the manual for D5 pumps from the OEM.

http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/08/IM-17B.pdf



I mean what more proof do you need? EK say don't do it and the people who make the things, say not to do it? Do you need an alien to slap you in the face with a mackerel before listening to reason?


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hmm not sure because well... here is the manual for D5 pumps from the OEM.
> 
> http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/08/IM-17B.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> I mean what more proof do you need? EK say don't do it and the people who make the things, say not to do it? Do you need an alien to slap you in the face with a mackerel before listening to reason?


No, but I tend to listen to people who's job it is to know, instead of random people on the internet...

How about word from Koolance technical suppport?

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=14520328&postcount=320

How bout word from Laing themselves?

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=14531090&postcount=335

So yes, it's not recommended, but if you know the risks, how to avoid the problems associated with it, and take responsibility for it then I say go for it. I mean really, how much of this hobby is "recommended"?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> No, but I tend to listen to people who's job it is to know, instead of random people on the internet...
> 
> How about word from Koolance technical suppport?
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=14520328&postcount=320
> 
> How bout word from Laing themselves?
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=14531090&postcount=335
> 
> So yes, it's not recommended, but if you know the risks, how to avoid the problems associated with it, and take responsibility for it then I say go for it. I mean really, how much of this hobby is "recommended"?


Interesting stuff, though I love the irony of your comment then you post advice you listened to from random people of the internets.

Having seen how much air gets trapped in these pumps from first fill to eventually bleeding it's a lot of messing around and risk for no purpose.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> So yes, it's not recommended, but if you know the risks,


...and this is where noobs will no doubt stumble and get into trouble.

So I would never recommended using these pumps inverted unless the person was well versed in ensuring that no air could get trapped in the bowl of an inverted pump.

Koolance actually make a res/pump combo where the pumps actually sit inverted, however they pull a few tricks with their design which ensures that minimal air can become trapped inside the pump bowl & volute area - even so they can still be a tad awkward to bleed: http://koolance.com/rp-452x2-dual-5-25in-reservoir-for-1-2-pmp-450-s-pumps


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just to make sure, this will work, right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you really plan to make the pump stay this way? Because it's upside down and I wouldn't do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for your loop configuration, I don't know, isn't the cpu was missed during paint?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Does it really matter if it's "upside down"? since thats the only way I can fit the pump
Click to expand...

Yes it does! It's the only orientation you should never put a D5 in. It can get starved of coolant, its means of lubrication.

EDIT: I should have read all the way to the end of the thread before answering! Costas and Benjiw provided all the necessary information, and Hellbilly provided the counter-argument, so there was nothing left to add!


----------



## Ceadderman

Except, GLWT.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Doing a fully parallel loop is fine,taking watercooling advice from him? Less so.
> 
> 
> 
> *Well then why dont you get on that poop tube and show em how its done?* And bring magoo, he'll solidify a substantial amount of subscribers for sure.
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly; most experienced OCN members are quick to pull down someone like Linus or Jay, but i think they help the noobs. When i first started out, knowing the Do's and Dont's, what size of tube goes with what size of fitting, and the differences between fittings was a challenge lol.

I had to do a ton of research, and i'm a perfectionist, so that makes it even worse. It would have been cool to just watch a 5 minute video, rather than spend hours upon hours researching.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I really wished the EK nickel didn't have such a yellowish tint to it.
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I really wished the EK nickel didn't have such a yellowish tint to it.
> 
> 
> 
> None of my EK nickel plated parts have a yellowish tint. Some of the pics I have posted show a yellow tint due to light reflection.
Click to expand...

Mine clearly do. Barrows on the left, EK on the right.


----------



## Radmanhs

is the ek uni pump bracket compatible with the bitspower d5 mounting bracket?


----------



## Origondoo

After a year finally working on my S3. 2 x Alphacool 280mm UT60 rad and 2 x D5 in pedestal


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> My thoughts exactly; most experienced OCN members are quick to pull down someone like Linus or Jay, but i think they help the noobs. When i first started out, knowing the Do's and Dont's, what size of tube goes with what size of fitting, and the differences between fittings was a challenge lol.
> 
> I had to do a ton of research, and i'm a perfectionist, so that makes it even worse. It would have been cool to just watch a 5 minute video, rather than spend hours upon hours researching.


Do you think I have enough hours in the day?

Never mind that all that info and more has been covered to death already in this forum alone......I'm sorry that everybody requires everything to be in an easily digestible video format....


----------



## Radmanhs

what do you think of this tube routing, kinda different, but that's what I'm going for



Raw pic if you have ideas


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> what do you think of this tube routing, kinda different, but that's what I'm going for


so parallel
cpu/gpu/bottom rad? If I'm seeing that right. The cpu/gpu would probably be close enough in restriction work well, that rad though is probably much lower restriction and therefore would take more of the flowrate than it should, starving the blocks of flow


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> what do you think of this tube routing, kinda different, but that's what I'm going for
> 
> 
> 
> so parallel
> cpu/gpu/bottom rad? If I'm seeing that right. The cpu/gpu would probably be close enough in restriction work well, that rad though is probably much lower restriction and therefore would take more of the flowrate than it should, starving the blocks of flow
Click to expand...

EXACTLY THIS ^^^^^^^^^

CPU and GPU in parallel is fine, even 2 rads in parallel is OK, but you can't run rads in parallel with the blocks, or the blocks won't have enough flow.

The flow rate breaks down in inverse proportion to the restriction.

Even if the rad was equal in restriction to the blocks and the flow divided equally, only 1/3 of the coolant would make it thru that rad each time around, and while it might spend 3 times more time in the rad, it doesn't loose 3 times the heat load.

Different is nice, but different that actually works is even nicer . . . .

D.


----------



## Bogga

Finally got it all done... cleaned up a bit. Just the surroundings now


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Getting there. Case is painted:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow the paint looks nice!! Did you move up to an HVLP gun from your airbrush?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Mine clearly do. Barrows on the left, EK on the right.


That's due to it not being a Nickle fitting, it's the Black Nickle version on the Right (Can look yellowish in certain light)


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Do you think I have enough hours in the day?*
> 
> Never mind that all that info and more has been covered to death already in this forum alone......I'm sorry that everybody requires everything to be in an easily digestible video format....


Exactly, you don't, and A LOT of people included. No one has the time to go over 1000+ pages just to know what to do when building a custom loop. You should be glad people like Linus and Jay exist, because they do help in spreading the word out there to new comers. I don't know if it's just me, but you do come of as "jealous" when you speak of them in that manner: No offense.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Exactly, you don't, and A LOT of people included. No one has the time to go over 1000+ pages just to know what to do when building a custom loop. You should be glad people like Linus and Jay exist, because they do help in spreading the word out there to new comers. I don't know if it's just me, but you do come of as "jealous" when you speak of them in that manner: No offense.


Why would I be jealous? I have everything I want and which I have working towards for a few years.

Jay2pence puts out bad info,been proven many times.

Also,the search bar is in the top right of the page,find your answers in the forum,not in this thread. So no need to search 1000+ pages in here.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Yeah, whatever... Stay professional; It's when you start using names like "Jay2pence", that's when you come off as childish/jealous. That's like me calling you B-Positive lol...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Wow the paint looks nice!! Did you move up to an HVLP gun from your airbrush?


Yep. Whole new game. It did not came up perfect but is was an ok first experience.


----------



## jvillaveces

please delete


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Wow the paint looks nice!! Did you move up to an HVLP gun from your airbrush?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. Whole new game. It did not came up perfect but is was an ok first experience.
Click to expand...

Lovely work Gabe. Just one issue that deals with the cable management plate. Could be larger with an overhang to cover up more cables. Which is probably my only criticism of such a fine build.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. Whole new game. It did not came up perfect but is was an ok first experience.


That came out awesome for a first time use with the HVLP spray setup







!

My first foray into HVLP was terrible because I had no idea what wasn't working properly so the first coat was just thickly layering droplets and splotches onto the primer







. Had another go on Saturday with a better pressure regulator and the result was much, much better







. I plan to grab an even better regulator again next weekend.

Could you please post a photo or list the components of your painting setup?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Yeah, whatever... Stay professional; It's when you start using names like "Jay2pence", that's when you come off as childish/jealous. That's like me calling you B-Positive lol...


No. He's an idiot and should be called out. Sorry I am on bs side for this


----------



## IT Diva

For those that hadn't seen it, thought you might like the full width front window mods on my S5 and S8S, along with the lighted midplates to mount stuff on right in the window's view.

Darlene


----------



## Stateless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For those that hadn't seen it, thought you might like the full width front window mods on my S5 and S8S, along with the lighted midplates to mount stuff on right in the window's view.
> 
> Darlene


WOW those look great!!! Hope you post pics when you are 100% done with those builds.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> WOW those look great!!! Hope you post pics when you are 100% done with those builds.


Ive seen divas build logs. They just stop and theres no end. Damn you diva.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For those that hadn't seen it, thought you might like the full width front window mods on my S5 and S8S, along with the lighted midplates to mount stuff on right in the window's view.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2874344/width/800/height/600[/IMG]


Wow those look awesome! What kind of rad space will you end up with in the S5? I see maybe enough room for one 360.







I would love to do a window mod in my S5. I just don't have the tools, or skill set for straight cuts.


----------



## IT Diva

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For those that hadn't seen it, thought you might like the full width front window mods on my S5 and S8S, along with the lighted midplates to mount stuff on right in the window's view.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOW those look great!!! Hope you post pics when you are 100% done with those builds.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> WOW those look great!!! Hope you post pics when you are 100% done with those builds.
> 
> 
> 
> Ive seen divas build logs. They just stop and theres no end. Damn you diva.
Click to expand...

The truth of the matter is that I love to build and create, but loathe having to write about it . . . .

Logs start with the best of intentions, but I build faster than I write and take pictures, although I'm a lot better a keeping up with pics than making entries in a log.

I'm still waiting on a 2-tone, white/black S5 to ship and a crap-ton of accessories and chassis and trim panels, so once that all ships, (should be another week or two) I'm going to put all three of the Caselabs builds in a log, and add in a retro log of the S8 with the extra window in the flex bays in the pics, since it never did have a log.

Darlene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Wow those look awesome! What kind of rad space will you end up with in the S5? I see maybe enough room for one 360.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to do a window mod in my S5. I just don't have the tools, or skill set for straight cuts.


I did a lot of measuring, and then some trial fitting . . . . There's just enough room in the drives area of the S5 to shoehorn a Alphacool XT45 360 in there, if you use the right mounting brackets.

The Acool rad is the narrowest of any of them at about 126mm, and the XSPC mounts only add about 6mm.

That will be the only rad, as everything else will be window. (waiting on a full window top for the S5 to match the S8S) The S5's are built a lot more for aesthetics than performance.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Logs start with the best of intentions, but I build faster than I write and take pictures, although I'm a lot better a keeping up with pics than making entries in a log.


Yep im feeling this pain as we speak of it. I just build and cut and do then take a photo and think im 10 steps ahead of myself lol

Love the s8 though!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Lovely work Gabe. Just one issue that deals with the cable management plate. Could be larger with an overhang to cover up more cables. Which is probably my only criticism of such a fine build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thks mate







. Cable are not even in it yet. There is a custom plate for the cables. I am also considering cutting the side for the cpu cable... Check the build log. I made an acrylic piece for it (this is the first mock up version - second and final divider does not have the channel in it):




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> That came out awesome for a first time use with the HVLP spray setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> My first foray into HVLP was terrible because I had no idea what wasn't working properly so the first coat was just thickly layering droplets and splotches onto the primer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Had another go on Saturday with a better pressure regulator and the result was much, much better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I plan to grab an even better regulator again next weekend.
> 
> Could you please post a photo or list the components of your painting setup?


I can send you latter. But remember I am in Brazil so other than the compressor and HVLP gun (one of it) will not be the same stuff. Will send you a pm latter or edit this post.









https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/index.php/devilbiss-sri-pro-lite.html#sthash.EYwLj4Sq.dpbs

with te5 and 1.0 mm needle

https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/ani-spraygun-pressure-gauge-regulator.html#sthash.PluPMG8B.dpbs
https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/index.php/sealey-inline-water-trap-filter-ilf-se.html#sthash.WMB0s4vl.dpbs

and something like this for the compressor:

https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/index.php/spraygun-gauges-filters/inline-regulators-gauges/ani-single-stage-filter-regulator.html#sthash.U65urh8A.dpbs

my compressor is the Hyundai 24 L capable of 7 PCM. I am sure there is something similar in Australia. Models in US and EU are a bit newer and better closing the gap to around 8 PCM.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Cable are not even in it yet. There is a custom plate for the cables. I am also considering cutting the side for the cpu cable... Check the build log. I made an acrylic piece for it:
> 
> 
> 
> I can send you latter. But remember I am in Brazil so other than the compressor and HVLP gun (one of it) will not be the same stuff. Will send you a pm latter or edit this post.


Thanks, that'd be awesome







.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Cable are not even in it yet. There is a custom plate for the cables. I am also considering cutting the side for the cpu cable... Check the build log. I made an acrylic piece for it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Gabs,

That thing's really starting to kick some a$$ . .









I wasn't too keen on the BH when they came out, reminded me too much of my first ham radio gear, used kit from the 50's . .

But I have to admit, some of these custom builds are really starting to grow on me.

Just keeps looking sweeter there.

Darlene


----------



## Stateless

I am starting to research hard tubing and will do some testing in the near future. What is considered the best fittings for hard tubing? For soft tubing, I love using Monsoon fittings, while expensive, I love the way they look, but since I never have done hard tubing, I am wondering what the best of the best is for fittings.


----------



## emsj86

Working on it. I like the new runs so far. What do you think? Before and after


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stateless*
> 
> I am starting to research hard tubing and will do some testing in the near future. What is considered the best fittings for hard tubing? For soft tubing, I love using Monsoon fittings, while expensive, I love the way they look, but since I never have done hard tubing, I am wondering what the best of the best is for fittings.


This is the most subjective component in water cooling imo. Any fitting has the same percentage chance of failure, so I break it down into 2 basic catagories, compressions and push ins. Compressions have a collar that tighten down the tubing and hold it firmly. With push ins the tube just slides in until it seats but has nothing holding pressure against it. Compressions are great for traveling rigs but usually push ins have a smaller footprint and flow better with the tubing. (You mentioned Monsoon which is probably the most complex rigid fitting with the glue collar, but probably the strongest also when done correctly).

I approach my loops first deciding what size tube I want to use, then decide what color I want the fittings. This will help narrow down the field a little. Of course budget can play a role too, how much are you willing to pay for fittings for the entire loop. (Since you have Monsoons already some of them have upgrade kits so you don't have to buy the entire fitting again, but it depends on which Monsoon fitting you have).

So I think to say "the best fitting is", we are basing it primarily on our experience and personal preference. I can tell you the most popular rigid fittings are EK and BP, look at any water cooling build on Google and you will see that. Monsoon and Alphacool seem to hold the next in line.

So since I believe they are very subjective I will say my go to rigid fittings are Barrow and EK. Barrow are a very good quality fitting at a VERY good cost, and EK is, well, EK, the elite of the elite imo.


----------



## Stateless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> This is the most subjective component in water cooling imo. Any fitting has the same percentage chance of failure, so I break it down into 2 basic catagories, compressions and push ins. Compressions have a collar that tighten down the tubing and hold it firmly. With push ins the tube just slides in until it seats but has nothing holding pressure against it. Compressions are great for traveling rigs but usually push ins have a smaller footprint and flow better with the tubing. (You mentioned Monsoon which is probably the most complex rigid fitting with the glue collar, but probably the strongest also when done correctly).
> 
> I approach my loops first deciding what size tube I want to use, then decide what color I want the fittings. This will help narrow down the field a little. Of course budget can play a role too, how much are you willing to pay for fittings for the entire loop. (Since you have Monsoons already some of them have upgrade kits so you don't have to buy the entire fitting again, but it depends on which Monsoon fitting you have).
> 
> So I think to say "the best fitting is", we are basing it primarily on our experience and personal preference. I can tell you the most popular rigid fittings are EK and BP, look at any water cooling build on Google and you will see that. Monsoon and Alphacool seem to hold the next in line.
> 
> So since I believe they are very subjective I will say my go to rigid fittings are Barrow and EK. Barrow are a very good quality fitting at a VERY good cost, and EK is, well, EK, the elite of the elite imo.


Thank you for all of that. I just finished working on adding a second loop for my GPU's using soft tubing and I was not ready for rigid tubing as of yet, but I plan to do a rebuild in the future and I have a second computer that needs water cooling so I was thinking of using that one to practice hard tubing. I will continue to watch more videos and do research. Thanks again for the feedback.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Working on it. I like the new runs so far. What do you think? Before and after


That looks GORGEOUS!


----------



## aaronstransam

Just added pastel after system break down and clean. How's it look?? Might go back to DI and clear/uv blue

Before


After

ight/400


----------



## chromeMKvii

Just added pastel after system break down and clean. How's it look?? Might go back to DI and clear/uv blue

LOVE the looks of the pastel, don't go back!


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Just added pastel after system break down and clean. How's it look?? Might go back to DI and clear/uv blue


That's a tough choice as they both look cool







. I do really like that UV pastel combination and haven't seen it used before! Looks like the skin of the Protoss Archon in the Starcraft 2: Legacy of the Void cinematic







.

What UV lights are you using in the case and where are they located?


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> That's a tough choice as they both look cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I do really like that UV pastel combination and haven't seen it used before! Looks like the skin of the Protoss Archon in the Starcraft 2: Legacy of the Void cinematic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> What UV lights are you using in the case and where are they located?


There are 6 ccls. 2 at the front edge of the mid plate. 1 on back, behind the door latch. 1 on the front side next to the fan bracket. And 1 on either side of the upper rad with reflectors.

I do like the color of the pastel but the DI clear/uv blue really makes the rigid tubes "pop".


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Working on it. I like the new runs so far. What do you think? Before and after


I love the CPU block orientation.









TCO


----------



## emsj86

Thank you. I been wanting to do these cpu set up for a while. Seen a few builds with it and always liked it. Rooms. Few tries to get the correct size tubing as it had to be cut so small. Plan was originally to drill through the case by the top left exiting the radiator and come back into the case above the reservoir but I just didn't have enough pass throughs. I would like to pick up some smaller bits power extensions as the ek grip on the rotary doesn't match the bits power. Still debating on adding the Arouca booster when I'm finished even though t won't last it's something I ve been wanting to try. Finishing the bottom under the mid plate tonight with hardline bends than Leak testing/cable management.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Need some pump advice all.

I have a mcp355 that ive had for about 7 years and its still works great but the thing is too damn loud. I am trying to do a near silent (or close to it) build in a SFF case so there wont be much tubing.. loop is 2 radiators gpu block cpu block pump/res.

Any recommendations for a pump that is either controlled by PWM or can be run pretty quiet for my loop?

Thanks!


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Working on it. I like the new runs so far. What do you think?


I think that looks amazing! It looked great before but this is a big improvement! Will the res be taking the same spot with a line coming in the top from the rad?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I think that looks amazing! It looked great before but this is a big improvement! Will the res be taking the same spot with a line coming in the top from the rad?


Yes reservoir will be In the same place. It will either have the tube run from the top rad across he case or from the top rad to the back of the case and than come out over top of the reservoir. Not sure. Going with X1 clear with blue dye. Hope it matches the mid plate as the pastel matched perfect but pastel just leaves to much crap behind. (I would recommend pastel just know it requires more flushing and maintaince). As for adding aura booster I'm on the fence as even if I do add it and it fails I'll just flush it out and I have extra X1 clear and dye. Aurora is like that food that makes you feel sick afterwards. Even though you know it won't work out it looks to good to pass up


----------



## Radmanhs

Judging by the previous posts, you wouldn't want to even split the loop parallel between 1 block and a rad, then bring it back to serial?


----------



## emsj86

I may have worded it wrong but it is and will be all in serial


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Judging by the previous posts, you wouldn't want to even split the loop parallel between 1 block and a rad, then bring it back to serial?


You can parallel blocks and you can parallel rads but not blocks with rads. As long as you have a serial connection between blocks and rads then you are okay.

Much easier just to serial everything tbh.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes reservoir will be In the same place. It will either have the tube run from the top rad across he case or from the top rad to the back of the case and than come out over top of the reservoir. Not sure. Going with X1 clear with blue dye. Hope it matches the mid plate as the pastel matched perfect but pastel just leaves to much crap behind. (I would recommend pastel just know it requires more flushing and maintaince). As for adding aura booster I'm on the fence as even if I do add it and it fails I'll just flush it out and I have extra X1 clear and dye. Aurora is like that food that makes you feel sick afterwards. Even though you know it won't work out it looks to good to pass up


passthroughs are always amazing! Though it might look good going across the top of the case.

I'm still stuck in my Aurora infatuation stage, I just loaded my current build up with it, full well knowing it was nothing but trouble. I've used it before and this is my most complex loop to date but it's been worth it. I might have to go back to basic loops that wont kill it within a month haha

That is probably the best analogy that I've ever heard for Aurora! I'm about to clean up a whole bunch of sick here pretty soon (loop needed cleaning anyways)


----------



## nycgtr

I think the build looks great, but would pop more to me if you didn't use that many adapters and bent the tube instead.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Judging by the previous posts, you wouldn't want to even split the loop parallel between 1 block and a rad, then bring it back to serial?
> 
> 
> 
> You can parallel blocks and you can parallel rads but not blocks with rads. As long as you have a serial connection between blocks and rads then you are okay.
> 
> Much easier just to serial everything tbh.
Click to expand...

thats what I thought, just a pain in my build because of the bottom rad, if I flip it around the inlets will be covered by the res. I just don't know how great it would look with the tube going in front of the gpu on the left


----------



## emsj86

I ended up running it across the top. Will finish the bottom bends than leak testing. Than of course it's cable management clean up time as I never did a great job my first time around. It's hard I see a lot of guys build over time but I don't have much room in my apartment and I never have any free time where I am not dead tired to build. So I'm pretty happy with being able to make it look good in my eyes in a 4 hour window. Can't wait until we move out and I get a garage to work at and build myself a custom desk.phone pic.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I ended up running it across the top. Will finish the bottom bends than leak testing. Than of course it's cable management clean up time as I never did a great job my first time around. It's hard I see a lot of guys build over time but I don't have much room in my apartment and I never have any free time where I am not dead tired to build. So I'm pretty happy with being able to make it look good in my eyes in a 4 hour window. Can't wait until we move out and I get a garage to work at and build myself a custom desk.phone pic.


That works perfect with the other runs! I had a feeling it would


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Need some pump advice all.
> 
> I have a mcp355 that ive had for about 7 years and its still works great but the thing is too damn loud. I am trying to do a near silent (or close to it) build in a SFF case so there wont be much tubing.. loop is 2 radiators gpu block cpu block pump/res.
> 
> Any recommendations for a pump that is either controlled by PWM or can be run pretty quiet for my loop?
> 
> Thanks!


You're building in a tiny case right? So a D5 wouldn't be the best choice, a DDC with speed control would be your best bet I reckon, something like this maybe?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump


----------



## sonixblue

Just a simple loop. Ek blocks, front 360rad, top 240pe rad. The lighting is bad in the photo. Oh and my squrriel Shorty... He only has half a tail and eats butterfingers.


----------



## Trestles126

Loops done pretty happy I can take the top section off or the back panel off and disconnect the lower rad via oc cool threaded quick disconnects ... So much better than the bitspower snap ones. Waiting on a gtx 980ti to upgrade my 780 (traded my nova case straight across for it) also added a drain port that passes thru the hard drive tray. I'll be able to drop the tray disconnect necessary cables and change fluid when needed.

Now all that's left is to sleeve some cables and leak test. Obviously the lower cable compartment is a mess just for some light testing.


----------



## emsj86

Had a two fittings failures. Able to fix pretty fast and no leaks. This is still some old pastel that was stuck in the front rad. Flushing and hopefully filling this week


----------



## rediornot

I am not that brave, I have a 240 sealed unit. but I got 2 of them for $67.00 so I went with them and I think the deep cool captains look awesome.


----------



## Questors

If it's not too much trouble, I could use some input.

In the picture, one can easily see the routing. The EK SLI bridge is parallel. I am wondering if serial would be more effective for this application? It wouldn't be much trouble use the black POM connections that come with the GPU blocks and some fittings/tube. When I leaked tested the system recently, it _appeared_ the flow coming in the SLI block, was flowing straight down to the second card. The outlet side of the top GPU was trickling. A serial flow would force the water in a particular direction.

I have not run into this previously, but then this is the most ambitious project I have attempted to date.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> If it's not too much trouble, I could use some input.
> 
> In the picture, one can easily see the routing. The EK SLI bridge is parallel. I am wondering if serial would be more effective for this application? It wouldn't be much trouble use the black POM connections that come with the GPU blocks and some fittings/tube. When I leaked tested the system recently, it _appeared_ the flow coming in the SLI block, was flowing straight down to the second card. The outlet side of the top GPU was trickling. A serial flow would force the water in a particular direction.
> 
> I have not run into this previously, but then this is the most ambitious project I have attempted to date.


This is really just a theory but was/is there any air trapped in the top gpu? Seems like the top gpu would be harder to bleed since the air would have to travel down the sli bridge, that might create enough of a difference in pressure to unbalance the flow.


----------



## emsj86

Filled her up and added dye. Not happy with the way mayhems non stain blue dye looks. Thought it would be a lighter more blue color. Where the tube runs look Aqua. May go back to mayhems pastel with blue dye. Unless there is another good blue dye option. Also is dead water good to use just with distilled?


----------



## fakeblood

New manta build. Need to straighten the bottom run.
Just waiting on RAM, pump top and res..should be here Monday.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Filled her up and added dye. Not happy with the way mayhems non stain blue dye looks. Thought it would be a lighter more blue color. Where the tube runs look Aqua.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> May go back to mayhems pastel with blue dye. Unless there is another good blue dye option. Also is dead water good to use just with distilled?


I like this blue moreso than any others you have used. They are always to dark. Liking the seethrough appearance.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

It's growing on me but in day light the tubing doesn't look like the pictures. It looks like a tourquise.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It's growing on me but in day light the tubing doesn't look like the pictures. It looks like a tourquise.


Did you use just the dye + distilled water? I'm going for a similar look in my loop, and it would be nice to get some feedback.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It's growing on me *but in day light* the tubing doesn't look like the pictures. It looks like a tourquise.


Your computer lives outside?

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Did you use just the dye + distilled water? I'm going for a similar look in my loop, and it would be nice to get some feedback.


I used mayhems X1 uv blue clear the 250ml one don't get the 100ml version as it does not mix clear. Than added 3 drops of mayhems blue dye.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Your computer lives outside?
> 
> TCO


LOL my fiancé wishes it did


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> New manta build. Need to straighten the bottom run.
> Just waiting on RAM, pump top and res..should be here Monday.


I just put mine under water and it's a mess in there..lol



What pump will you be using and where do you plan on mounting it?


----------



## emsj86

Sorry for posting so much. I meant to ask as well. I have a little bottle of dead water. I'm assuming it like pt nuke. Wanted to get thoughts on if distilled and just dead water are ok or good to use


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> This is really just a theory but was/is there any air trapped in the top gpu? Seems like the top gpu would be harder to bleed since the air would have to travel down the sli bridge, that might create enough of a difference in pressure to unbalance the flow.


That is what I came too. The loops has dual D5s, so plenty of pump power. In just over 48 hrs of run time I wasn't able to get that air out, even with loosening the plug on the SLI bridge block to bleed at that spot.


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello all

Once again looking for some advice here.

Can you people read my thread here? Thanks
http://www.overclock.net/t/1611997/d5-pwm-with-asus-maximus-viii-hero#post_25531871


----------



## mmcneil

Hi everybody. I'm looking to get some advice on the Enthoo Primo case; My current rig is:

Fractal Design Define S case
i7 4790K OC'd to 4.7ghz at 1.28 volts
Asus Maximus VII Gene motherboard
16GB Corsair vengenance
EVGA GeForce GTX 760
Alphacool UT60 Rad
XSPC RayStorm waterblock
Koolance PMP 450
Phobya 250 reservoir

My current loop order is RES -> Pump -> Radiator -> CPU -> RES

I don't plan on doing any graphics cooling right now, but I wanted to get some suggestions on routing for tubing, for the cooling loop. I'd planned on placing the UT60 on the floor of the new case, but I'm concerned about having to do a super long run of tubing from the radiator to the CPU. I want to keep the case as clutter free as possible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Mike


----------



## TeslaHUN

Enthoo Primo case
Phobya 360 *60+ Magicool 360*30 rad
Phobya 260DC pump + Bay res
Phobya CPU block +Alphacool Nexxos GPU
2x14 cm Aerocool DeadSilence
3x12cm Akasa Apache
5x14cm Thermalright TY147A (best fans ever made )


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> I just put mine under water and it's a mess in there..lol
> 
> 
> 
> What pump will you be using and where do you plan on mounting it?


I wouldn't call that a mess, looks good.

I'll be using an ek d5 Revo and aquacomputer aquatube res. Will need to make up a bracket to mount them to the rad at the front.


----------



## mmcneil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Primo case
> Phobya 360 *60+ Magicool 360*30 rad
> Phobya 260DC pump + Bay res
> Phobya CPU block +Alphacool Nexxos GPU
> 2x14 cm Aerocool DeadSilence
> 3x12cm Akasa Apache
> 5x14cm Thermalright TY147A (best fans ever made )


Thanks for the pics TeslaHUN. Would you mind showing how you routed your tubing ?

Thanks again,

Mike


----------



## MR-e

Sorry if you're seen these already in the CL Owner's thread, but I can't help but post these pictures









*Completed Photos*







Spoiler: A Few More Pics









*Full Album Here - Imgur*


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Sorry if you're seen these already in the CL Owner's thread, but I can't help but post these pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Completed Photos*


very nice build...but after the first pic i though it was a rare pc/botanical garden combo


----------



## emsj86

Oh snap. Added aurora booster just a few drops and testing blue LEDs under the acrylic. I like the LEDs the aurora is nice but idk yet.


----------



## r4ven

My Define S buildlog is coming along nicely for anyone who likes to look at that sort of thing









http://www.overclock.net/t/1610315/build-log-hardline-virgin-aussie-build-define-s-ekwb-fanboy


----------



## emsj86




----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*


i prefer your avatar pic, im in the process of building a s8 and i am going pastel blue myself, why did you go away from pastel? looks? or was there something wrong with it?


----------



## aaronstransam

Looking for advise...anyone have any luck painting fittings. I'm thinking of a complete overhaul of my main rig and have some good ideas of what I want to do. All of these amazing rigs out there and I feel I could do better. It's going to involve lots of metal work and a little help from house of kolor. Just need to know if anyone has ever painted there fittings and had it work good. Not ok, but good. And if so, what did you do to prep and what did you use???


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmcneil*
> 
> Thanks for the pics TeslaHUN. Would you mind showing how you routed your tubing ?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Mike


Sure










5,25 Bay res > pump> rad on floor > VGA >rad on top >CPU> res


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmcneil*
> 
> Hi everybody. I'm looking to get some advice on the Enthoo Primo case; My current rig is:
> 
> Fractal Design Define S case
> i7 4790K OC'd to 4.7ghz at 1.28 volts
> Asus Maximus VII Gene motherboard
> 16GB Corsair vengenance
> EVGA GeForce GTX 760
> Alphacool UT60 Rad
> XSPC RayStorm waterblock
> Koolance PMP 450
> Phobya 250 reservoir
> 
> My current loop order is RES -> Pump -> Radiator -> CPU -> RES
> 
> I don't plan on doing any graphics cooling right now, but I wanted to get some suggestions on routing for tubing, for the cooling loop. I'd planned on placing the UT60 on the floor of the new case, but I'm concerned about having to do a super long run of tubing from the radiator to the CPU. I want to keep the case as clutter free as possible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Mike


Why don't you place the rad in the roof? Air clearance is tight in the bottom. I am going to use two rads so I have no choice but single I would go roof for sure.

Where are you planning to place the pump and the res?

I suggest you make a few drawings in paint or whatever if you haven't done that already.


----------



## mmcneil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Why don't you place the rad in the roof? Air clearance is tight in the bottom. I am going to use two rads so I have no choice but single I would go roof for sure.
> 
> Where are you planning to place the pump and the res?
> 
> I suggest you make a few drawings in paint or whatever if you haven't done that already.


Thanks for getting back. Aesthetics was one of the reasons for wanting the radiator on the bottom; I also have drain setup that I wanted to use on the bottom of the UT60. I was under the impression that the Primo had enough space for a 60mm rad with push/pull fans. As for the pump and res, I quoted my old setup.. it's actually a Bitspower D5 Top with a 150mm reservoir. Since the res and the pump are connected, I planned on using the Phanteks included mounting bracket. I'll whip up a Visio diagram to illustrate how I want it to look.

Mike


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Looking for advise *ADVICE*...anyone have any luck painting fittings. I'm thinking of a complete overhaul of my main rig and have some good ideas of what I want to do. All of these amazing rigs out there and I feel I could do better. It's going to involve lots of metal work and a little help from house of kolor. Just need to know if anyone has ever painted there fittings and had it work good. Not ok, but good. And if so, what did you do to prep and what did you use???


I have had luck painting fittings, but only a black fitting to complete white (Bitspower). You haven't specified a colour or whatnot. Why are you concerned about fittings in the 900D when you have mostly bends?

TCO


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have had luck painting fittings, but only a black fitting to complete white (Bitspower). You haven't specified a colour or whatnot. Why are you concerned about fittings in the 900D when you have mostly bends?
> 
> TCO


Thinking of doing tangerine candy paint on most of the case with cameo white and blue pinstripes/small accent pieces. I want to paint the fittings the same blue as the pinstripes. Think 69 Chevy ss. I used to be an auto painter and I've always liked candy paints. Going to try and paint fans tangerine candy as well


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Thinking of doing tangerine candy paint on most of the case with cameo white and blue pinstripes/small accent pieces. I want to paint the fittings the same blue as the pinstripes. Think 69 Chevy ss. I used to be an auto painter and I've always liked candy paints. *Going to try* and paint fans tangerine candy as well


Don't try, but isn't parts of the 900D Plastic?

Thinking of getting another Case to Paint?

TCO


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Don't try, but isn't parts of the 900D Plastic?
> 
> Thinking of getting another Case to Paint?
> 
> TCO


You use a plastic adhesive coat. Same thing you use to paint plastic bumpers on a car. You first apply the plastic bond coat, then your primer, let it dry and put a piece of tape on the primer. If the tape pulls away clean than you have a good bond for the base coat. If not you try a different product.


----------



## aaronstransam

Painting the plastic doesn't worry me...painting the fittings and having them look good is my worry. Im worried the tool notches on the fittings won't take paint right


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Some new toys for the S Frame...missing the other 2 cards still.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thought those 2 480's were sent to me







lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Just wanted to let yall know that parts are being ordered for the S3 Build (Name is still being decided, Most likely a name revolving around "Queen") and I just got another 200$ from work to get some more watercooling parts in....

Deciding whether to start a log... due to the fact that I am unsure of the completed project time....









TCO


----------



## emsj86

Go for a log. It s part of the fun. Also I will follow it gives me something to look at while I work. But don't worry about time most logs I see last 6-12months


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just wanted to let yall know that parts are being ordered for the S3 Build (Name is still being decided, Most likely a name revolving around "Queen") and I just got another 200$ from work to get some more watercooling parts in....
> 
> Deciding whether to start a log... due to the fact that I am unsure of the completed project time....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You gotta do a log man,

Reading yours is always way more fun that writing my own.

Mine are dry, boring and sometimes technical . . .

Yours are like watching 76 clowns get out of one VW beetle. . . .









D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You gotta do a log man,
> 
> Reading yours is always way more fun that writing my own.
> 
> Mine are dry, boring and sometimes technical . . .
> 
> Yours are like watching 76 clowns get out of one VW beetle. . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


I know but I don't even have components really picked out. I am still in the phases of doing measurements... that so blah.. Unless someone needs them I suppose









I am bring my drawings tonight and Have previous shots of the S3 that I took upon arrival... Ill see what I can scrap together.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You gotta do a log man,
> 
> Reading yours is always way more fun that writing my own.
> 
> Mine are dry, boring and sometimes technical . . .
> 
> Yours are like watching 76 clowns get out of one VW beetle. . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> I know but I don't even have components really picked out. I am still in the phases of doing measurements... that so blah.. Unless someone needs them I suppose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am bring my drawings tonight and Have previous shots of the S3 that I took upon arrival... Ill see what I can scrap together.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Starting a log too soon, and then having to wait on parts or funds, which then creates a hiatus in the tempo of the build, really makes it hard to pick up where you left off, and readers loose interest and you as the builder loose momentum.

That's the biggest reason why I didn't want to start a log for the Caselabs builds until the last one actually ships, which while that should have been yesterday, the "Your order has been delayed 1 to 2 weeks" email came instead.


----------



## mizer357

Love everyone's rigs. Here's mine, with recently added xflow rads to clean up the tubing a bit.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Starting a log too soon, and then having to wait on parts or funds, which then creates a hiatus in the tempo of the build, really makes it hard to pick up where you left off, and readers loose interest and you as the builder loose momentum.
> 
> That's the biggest reason why I didn't want to start a log for the Caselabs builds until the last one actually ships, which while that should have been yesterday, the "Your order has been delayed 1 to 2 weeks" email came instead.


I see where you are going with that, though you spelled it loose instead of Lose.

The One thing that will not happen is the loss of momentum as I can continue to provide problems that I am encountering at the moment, but measurement based, and not based on constraints (Money, etc)










I am putting one together as we speak as I have the faith that there are some buddies that appreciate the effort and time I put into the builds that I produce. As a Diva, I am sure you will accompany me in this quest to please my Queen, yes?










Ill Post a link once I finish the OP. Wish me luck and blow me a kiss?









TCO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I see where you are going with that, though you spelled it loose instead of Lose.
> The One thing that will not happen is the loss of momentum as I can continue to provide problems that I am encountering at the moment, but measurement based, and not based on constraints (Money, etc)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am putting one together as we speak as I have the faith that there are some buddies that appreciate the effort and time I put into the builds that I produce. As a Diva, I am sure you will accompany me in this quest to please my Queen, yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill Post a link once I finish the OP. Wish me luck and blow me a kiss?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You have 2 1/2 years to catch up to my still active build log - *S*_alive_*8* -









If you want to take pics and write about the build, don't worry about any perceived negatives.....
do it because you want to share the experience.

Sometimes real-life throws situations up that means anticipated time frames get pushed back.
Look forward to another "interesting" read along with some spiffy pics


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Love everyone's rigs. Here's mine, with recently added xflow rads to clean up the tubing a bit.


That's some nice clean soft tubing if I may say so myself.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Alright Everyone the Log is Live











Caselabs S3 Queen of White

TCO


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*


Thank you!


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You gotta do a log man,
> 
> Reading yours is always way more fun that writing my own.
> 
> Mine are dry, boring and sometimes technical . . .
> 
> Yours are like watching 76 clowns get out of one VW beetle. . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


You forgot the part of a TCO (The Clown One?) build where they drive the Beetle into a pool.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You gotta do a log man,
> 
> Reading yours is always way more fun that writing my own.
> 
> Mine are dry, boring and sometimes technical . . .
> 
> Yours are like watching 76 clowns get out of one VW beetle. . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> You forgot the part of a TCO (The Clown One?) build where they drive the Beetle into a pool.
Click to expand...

Hi Five dude, was that another perfect setup for yet another TCO acronym or what . . .
















I'll chuckle at that one all day at work . .

D.


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Love everyone's rigs. Here's mine, with recently added xflow rads to clean up the tubing a bit.


Who needs hardlines when you have soft tubing likt this? Very nice.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> You forgot the part of a TCO (The Clown One?) build where they drive the Beetle into a pool.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hi Five dude, was that another perfect setup for yet another TCO acronym or what . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll chuckle at that one all day at work . .
> 
> D.


Is someone keeping track of all of the acronyms?









The List should be pretty extensive by now I would tend to think.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You gotta do a log man,
> 
> Reading yours is always way more fun that writing my own.
> 
> Mine are dry, boring and sometimes technical . . .
> 
> Yours are like watching 76 clowns get out of one VW beetle. . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


You owe me a new monitor.....


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lmao, great way to put it


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> Who needs hardlines when you have soft tubing likt this? Very nice.


Thank you. I wish I had the know-how and patience to figure out rigid tubing, but I agree, clean curves on soft tubing can be beautiful too!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Thank you. I wish I had the know-how and patience to figure out rigid tubing, but I agree, clean curves on soft tubing can be beautiful too!


Only reason I switched was because the soft tubing goes hazy over time, it was super rewarding though. Clean lines and routing is like a good painting. Job well done I must say!


----------



## taowulf

You set 'em up, and I will spike 'em all day long, Diva.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is someone keeping track of all of the acronyms?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The List should be pretty extensive by now I would tend to think.
> 
> TCO


God, I wish I would have realized how long that gag would run when it first started in your first build log. I would have kept track.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> You set 'em up, and I will spike 'em all day long, Diva.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> God, I wish I would have realized how long that gag would run when it first started in your first build log. I would have kept track.


The Clowned One (For Years now)

TCO


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Clowned One (For Years now)
> 
> TCO


I am amazed at how many variations of your name there are.

The Complex One


----------



## Ithanul

We really need to make a list of the names.









But the whole clowns coming out of VW had me laughing hard.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> We really need to make a list of the names.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the whole clowns coming out of VW had me laughing hard.


I have my own TCO variant but can't use it on here sadly.


----------



## VSG

New PPCs discount code:
Quote:


> Autumn is upon us everyone and we all know what that means cooler weather,
> endless piles of leaves and Pumpkin Spice in everything. So lets enjoy the season
> and come check out some of the new products that we have now in stock! Lets skip
> on trying to find the newest pumpkin spice infused product and come
> check out the new stuff we have to offer!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend over $50 get 10% off: "FALL16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from September 23rd through September 30th 2016. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I have my own TCO variant but can't use it on here sadly.




TCO


----------



## VSG

This PE mesh though..


----------



## eucalyptus

Wow, been a few days again and missed 200 posts...

I am celebrating the weekend with some work on my project "V8 Ocean"









http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2877299/


----------



## Yungbenny911

My first post on here of the current status of Ice evolution







. Sorry for crappy photo with my Xperia Z3. I miss my DSLR







. Still contemplating on the Nikon D 5500, or Canon T6s


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New PPCs discount code:


Woo! Almost placed an order last night, gave it another day to think on it and it payed off.
Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This PE mesh though..


uuhhhh what's that?


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*


You know, I get all proud of myself for wiring up a couple of LEDs to a molex connector, and then I see all the next level stuff everyone puts up on here... sigh







. Intriguing and beautiful work.


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> You know, I get all proud of myself for wiring up a couple of LEDs to a molex connector, and then I see all the next level stuff everyone puts up on here... sigh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Intriguing and beautiful work.










Thank you. I'm still waiting on RMA from EVGA for my 1200 P2 PSU. @eucalyptus V8 Ocean, really does look intriguing!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. I'm still waiting on RMA from EVGA for my 1200 P2 PSU. @eucalyptus V8 Ocean, really does look intriguing!


Why the RMA?

TCO


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why the RMA?
> 
> TCO


I have no idea... The PSU just wouldn't come on. I do have roommates that use my PC, so i think someone is keeping something away from me.









Edit: It smells like something blew up in there.


----------



## taowulf

Well, my pump finally died today. So I went to order a new DDC and some other things on performance pcs mobile site. Talk about horrible. I thought the regular site was bad. Every time I added an item, it would add two to the cart and then it doubled the subtotal. Ridiculous. I finally borrowed my uncles ancient laptop to make my order.

They really need to fix their site. Almost made me mad enough to try frozenpc... but I am not crazy.









Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Well, my pump finally died today. So I went to order a new DDC and some other things on performance pcs mobile site. Talk about horrible. I thought the regular site was bad. Every time I added an item, it would add two to the cart and then it doubled the subtotal. Ridiculous. I finally borrowed my uncles ancient laptop to make my order.
> 
> They really need to fix their site. Almost made me mad enough to try frozenpc... but I am not crazy.


How long that DDC last you?

TCO


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> New PPCs discount code:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Autumn is upon us everyone and we all know what that means cooler weather,
> endless piles of leaves and Pumpkin Spice in everything. So lets enjoy the season
> and come check out some of the new products that we have now in stock! Lets skip
> on trying to find the newest pumpkin spice infused product and come
> check out the new stuff we have to offer!
> 
> Please enjoy these coupons while you shop with us over the next week:
> 
> Spend over $50 get 10% off: "FALL16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from September 23rd through September 30th 2016. One coupon per order please.)
Click to expand...

Dagnabbit! I just made an order with the OCN55 code.

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Well, my pump finally died today. So I went to order a new DDC and some other things on performance pcs mobile site. Talk about horrible. I thought the regular site was bad. Every time I added an item, it would add two to the cart and then it doubled the subtotal. Ridiculous. I finally borrowed my uncles ancient laptop to make my order.
> 
> They really need to fix their site. Almost made me mad enough to try frozenpc... but I am not crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long that DDC last you?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I think I bought from Frozen almost 10 years ago. I think it ran for about 8. Mostly 24/7.

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk


----------



## wardo3640

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Had fun building in a Core X5 last week at work. Pretty solid case for watercooling that isn't too hard on the wallet.


What cpu block is that?


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure it's the Monoblock for that board.









EK of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wardo3640*
> 
> What cpu block is that?


here ya go, sir

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-r5e-monoblock-nickel


----------



## fakeblood

Manta build


----------



## LiquidHaus

that's a clean loop right there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Manta build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love those Aquatube res and the loop is clean.

Not sure on the case tho,looks like a superdeformed thats been sat on.......


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> that's a clean loop right there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Love those Aquatube res and the loop is clean.
> 
> Not sure on the case tho,looks like a superdeformed thats been sat on.......


Thanks fellas.

Yeah have wanted an aquatube for a long time. Expensive to get one down this end of the world, but well worth it. As for the case, its seems people either love it or hate it.


----------



## wardo3640

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> here ya go, sir
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-r5e-monoblock-nickel


Thanks


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Manta build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL


That loop is stunning, well presented and love how simple the loop is, nice build!


----------



## Gilles3000

I have to agree, love the loop, definitely one of the better uses of that Aquatube res I've seen.

But the manta still really irks me, but not for the same reasons as BNeg. I actually like its somewhat bulbous look, its interesting and very much unique. But its the internal frame design, at that size for ITX case, I'd really expect something more in terms of rad support and CPU clearance. If you're going to make a humongous ITX case, at least do something more with the internals, this just feels like an afterthought.

It just seems completely form over function to me.


----------



## Questors

Looks very nice.


----------



## wardo3640

Have any of you run across any pictures or videos of a FrozenQ Liquid Fusion x4 blue uv res with red uv coolant flowing through it? I have googled and tubed til I am blue in the face and found nothing. I am planning a blood themed build and think the uv res and uv coolant would look nice but want to see it before I load up a loop with red. That stuff is ao hard to get out if it looks like a$$ and I hate it. Lol









Thanks


----------



## Trestles126

Done for now. Have a 980ti and ek nickel block and back plate on the way to upgrade the 780. And just purchased a Ocz vector 480gb ssd to go along with my 120gb. Other than some cable management I'm really happy with the turnout. Still undecided on coolant color prob go with grey like Gabriel's grey matter.


----------



## aaronstransam

PERFORMANCE PCS & MONSOON.....YOU GUYS ROCK.
contacted ppcs a couple days ago to see if they had any monsoon economy hardline fittings laying around so when I do the rebuild of my rig all the fittings would match. My hopes were low as they are discontinued. Got an email the next day from ppcs saying that their monsoon rep had located some fittings and had enough for a 6 pack and asked for my info to fwd over to monsoon. Thought I would receive an email or letter from monsoon with a price. 3 days and no email. No letter. But

THEN TODAY......6 pack shows up at my door.

Monsoon and ppcs for life.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yuppers! Had similar happen to me via Monsoon thread here. Geno is the man!









~Ceadder


----------



## wardo3640

Quick question about this?

http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling/reservoirs/toebehoren/watercool-heatkiller-tube-multiport-top-100.html

I will be filling from the top and coming out the bottom so... What is the riser tube for??

Lmao first WC rig can you tell?....









@Trestles126 nice looking build. The way the cables conform to the pump looks really nice.


----------



## aaronstransam

Getting super stoked for this rebuild. Free fittings from monsoon, Found out my bosses buddy runs a cnc waterjet, a good buddy is going to let me use his iwata paint gun and booth, and best of all....wife said go for it.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Getting super stoked for this rebuild. Free fittings from monsoon, Found out my bosses buddy runs a cnc waterjet, a good buddy is going to let me use his iwata paint gun and booth, and best of all....wife said go for it.


A man cannot ask for more.


----------



## fast_fate

Tops rads for project got some copper leaf treatment.
Oh yeah and the 4 coats of clear


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now those turned out amazingly


----------



## Ceadderman

Yuppers! Ha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Tops rads for project got some copper leaf treatment.
> Oh yeah and the 4 coats of clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Tops rads for project got some copper leaf treatment.
> Oh yeah and the 4 coats of clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice,your own work?

You always use a bucket load of clear,even more so for marbled finishes.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Now those turned out amazingly


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yuppers! Ha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very nice,your own work?
> 
> You always use a bucket load of clear,even more so for marbled finishes.





Spoiler: Salivate Top Rads







Cheers guys









Unfortunately my paint skills end with a rattle can.
I gave a friend the ideas I wanted, and he nailed the design 1st time.
Another week or so for the 2pac clear to cure fully and I can work with them







, 2 days since they were sprayed.

*EDIT:* recent rattle can efforts....


Spoiler: drying


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't feel bad Fate, I have to rely on people too. Nothing wrong with that.









Here is a small look at what I am doing...




Spoiler: Under Construction beware of old paint! lol








New Samsung 750 EVO 128gb OS drive

Copper rivets for when Darkside gets put back together

Filed the Upper PSU mounting area after having Dremeled the support off, to allow for the inverted back panel to mate properly with my PSU. Can't hardly see the ribs that were left over.

And MNPCTech cable combs to go with the IceModz cable Combs that I've purchased for a Staggered Stealth and Obvious look.









No watercooling gear today, hope to see some next week.









~Ceadder


----------



## alltheGHz

Hey guys,

So I'm contemplating switching back to aircooling.

My pump (EKWB DPC 2..2 res/pump combo) runs super loud, and if I turn it down too low then it randomly shuts off and my cpu overheats.

I don't wanna spend too much cash on a new pump/res, any suggestions?

Any other ideas?

Thanks


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> So I'm contemplating switching back to aircooling.
> 
> My pump (EKWB DPC 2..2 res/pump combo) runs super loud, and if I turn it down too low then it randomly shuts off and my cpu overheats.
> 
> I don't wanna spend too much cash on a new pump/res, any suggestions?
> 
> Any other ideas?
> 
> Thanks


Did your pump ever run dry? Just get a new pump. Sounds like it's shot.

Why do you need a new res?

New pump is $40+ on ppcs and they have a 10% off right now if you spend over 50. Get a fitting or something free with your new pump.


----------



## alltheGHz

No, it never ran dry.

PPCS is back in business? I've been out of the loop for a while, last I heard they went out of business and a bunch of orders went unfulfilled.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> No, it never ran dry.
> 
> *PPCS* is back in business? I've been out of the loop for a while, last I heard they went out of business and a bunch of orders went unfulfilled.












Frozen went out of business my friend. Frozencpu.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thought frozen was still in business, but had to do phone orders


----------



## mizer357

Frozen has been back up for a little bit.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Thought frozen was still in business, but had to do phone orders


Technicalities

TCO


----------



## alltheGHz

derp, my bad, yes I meant FCPU


----------



## aaronstransam

Don't mean to troll but you were asking about how to make sure your watercooling won't leak 3 weeks ago. Thinking about watercooling your rig. Makes me wonder if you had a "boo boo" priming your setup and ran the pump dry. It happens...it happened to me the first time. Guys on here will help you get it right. Don't give up on water cooling from one bad pump. Things happens. At least a new pump is cheap


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Don't mean to troll but you were asking about how to make sure your watercooling won't leak 3 weeks ago. Thinking about watercooling your rig. Makes me wonder if you had a "boo boo" priming your setup and ran the pump dry. It happens...it happened to me the first time. Guys on here will help you get it right. Don't give up on water cooling from one bad pump. Things happens. At least a new pump is cheap


Haha no dude nothing happened, My rig is fine, I'm just paranoid it's gonna leak. I put so much time and money into it that I just don't want something to spring a leak and totally destroy my PC.

As far as any "boo boos", I can assure you I was super careful about filling the res and topping it off while it was leak testing. I was very cautious when filling the loop up for the first time, I took every precaution possible.

At this point, it's just getting to be a pain. Whenever I move it, whether it be to a LAN, moving it to a desk to mess with the cables, or just getting shaken a bit when the shelf it's on gets bumped into, I always cringe, thinking a fitting came loose and is gonna leak on me.

The pump isn't helping either, are res/pump combos usually loud?


----------



## aaronstransam

Just sounds strange that after not even a month your pump is acting up is all. Post a pic of your loop. Maybe something is a miss


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey I gotta quick question for you guys.

Everyone ever mix different manufactured acrylic or petg tubing?

Would like to get some more tubing as I'll be blocking my FTW soon, and Primochill has a lower priced tubing to Monsoon. Same sizing and color, just different manufacturer. Just wanna double check, since I've never personally mixed. Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Shoot! I was bit by the bug ages ago it feels like. I have it so bad, that I plan to get off air with a Dell XPS 8700 as soon as I possibly can. It doesn't act up when I am gaming but I really would like to see better than ~55c temps. I won't ever build another air cooled system for myself if I can help it.









~Ceadder


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Hey I gotta quick question for you guys.
> 
> Everyone ever mix different manufactured acrylic or petg tubing?
> 
> Would like to get some more tubing as I'll be blocking my FTW soon, and Primochill has a lower priced tubing to Monsoon. Same sizing and color, just different manufacturer. Just wanna double check, since I've never personally mixed. Thanks!


Oh no dude it's been "loud" for a while, since I got it.

It's not making any screeching/grinding noises, it just sounds like there's a weak asf motor trying to push all this water through.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Oh no dude it's been "loud" for a while, since I got it.
> 
> It's not making any screeching/grinding noises, it just sounds like there's a weak asf motor trying to push all this water through.


I think you were meaning to quote @aaronstransam lol


----------



## aaronstransam

Post a pic of your loop. Something seem off

We are all here to help


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You cant expect silence from a DDC.....


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Oh no dude it's been "loud" for a while, since I got it.
> 
> It's not making any screeching/grinding noises, it just sounds like there's a weak asf motor trying to push all this water through.


Well its a DCP, which is a pretty weak pump after all. It works for small loops, but you get what you pay for.

A decent DDC would be quieter(if you control the speed) and will have much better flow. And if you really want something quiet, get a D5.

Depending on your loop, the EK's new SPC-60 is a great choice too for smaller loops, as its about as quiet as a D5 when you're not dealing with tons of restriction.

Another good one for smaller loops would be the Topsflo TDC, and its cheap at a mere $40.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/topsflo-tdc-silent-dc-water-cooling-pump-w-g1-4-thread-top.html


Source


Edit: Added topsflo and graph
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You cant expect silence from a DDC.....


Ehm...


----------



## Trestles126

Lil big but like I just posted recently in a super small build I've had really good luck with EK d5 pumps weather they be in a res combo or seperate. Rather have too much power than not enough.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Hey I gotta quick question for you guys.
> 
> Everyone ever mix different manufactured acrylic or petg tubing?
> 
> Would like to get some more tubing as I'll be blocking my FTW soon, and Primochill has a lower priced tubing to Monsoon. Same sizing and color, just different manufacturer. Just wanna double check, since I've never personally mixed. Thanks!


apparently they're made by the same ppl so they are same technically, at least that's what I've been told.
I mixed them before, they look identical, can't tell which one is which.


----------



## VeritronX

I have the bigger brother DCP pump, it's not loud on it's own but it puts out a LOT of vibration.. which makes your case give off noise. If I held it in my hand or put it on a sponge it was quiet. That said I fairly quickly upgraded to a D5 vario instead. I still have the DCP, though I only use it for testing stuff out.

Maybe try grabbing a sponge from your local supermarket and seeing if that helps with the noise?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Well its a DCP, which is a pretty weak pump after all. It works for small loops, but you get what you pay for.
> 
> A decent DDC would be quieter(if you control the speed) and will have much better flow. And if you really want something quiet, get a D5.
> 
> Depending on your loop, the EK's new SPC-60 is a great choice too for smaller loops, as its about as quiet as a D5 when you're not dealing with tons of restriction.
> 
> Another good one for smaller loops would be the Topsflo TDC, and its cheap at a mere $40.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/topsflo-tdc-silent-dc-water-cooling-pump-w-g1-4-thread-top.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Added topsflo and graph
> Ehm...


Oh, PPCs have those back? The EK SPC-60 got away with a good score only because it was not available and I was under the impression that was not coming back.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Well its a DCP, which is a pretty weak pump after all. It works for small loops, but you get what you pay for.
> 
> A decent DDC would be quieter(if you control the speed) and will have much better flow. And if you really want something quiet, get a D5.
> 
> Depending on your loop, the EK's new SPC-60 is a great choice too for smaller loops, as its about as quiet as a D5 when you're not dealing with tons of restriction.
> 
> Another good one for smaller loops would be the Topsflo TDC, and its cheap at a mere $40.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/topsflo-tdc-silent-dc-water-cooling-pump-w-g1-4-thread-top.html
> 
> 
> Source
> 
> 
> Edit: Added topsflo and graph
> Ehm...


Do you think a Topsflow or EK will be enough to run this loop?

2 Rads (EK CE 280 / Black Ice Nemesis 240GTS® Ultra Stealth U-Flow)
GPU Block
CPU Block
4-5 90s

Currently I have a mcp355 but its way too loud and im hoping to get a really QUIET loop.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> apparently they're made by the same ppl so they are same technically, at least that's what I've been told.
> I mixed them before, they look identical, can't tell which one is which.


Awesome, thanks man.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Hey I gotta quick question for you guys.
> 
> Everyone ever mix different manufactured acrylic or petg tubing?
> 
> Would like to get some more tubing as I'll be blocking my FTW soon, and Primochill has a lower priced tubing to Monsoon. Same sizing and color, just different manufacturer. Just wanna double check, since I've never personally mixed. Thanks!


I've mixed E22, Bitspower, and EK Acrylic tubing and have never had any problem. The only thing I did notice is E22's tolerance seems a little loose. It would always measure slightly larger diameter than the other 2 with calipers.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I've mixed E22, Bitspower, and EK Acrylic tubing and have never had any problem. The only thing I did notice is E22's tolerance seems a little loose. It would always measure slightly larger diameter than the other 2 with calipers.


That is the one thing I really would like that I keep forgetting, digital calipers.

TCO


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh, PPCs have those back? The EK SPC-60 got away with a good score only because it was not available and I was under the impression that was not coming back.


Seems like it, its pretty hard to beat at that price, unfortunate that its not available in Europe though. But Pump/Res combo version of the EK SPC-60 is still fairly good value at €75 imo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Do you think a Topsflow or EK will be enough to run this loop?
> 
> 2 Rads (EK CE 280 / Black Ice Nemesis 240GTS® Ultra Stealth U-Flow)
> GPU Block
> CPU Block
> 4-5 90s
> 
> Currently I have a mcp355 but its way too loud and im hoping to get a really QUIET loop.


I would suppose so, not entirely sure though as the GTS is a fairly restrictive rad and 90's can add quite a bit of restriction too depending on where you put them. But geggeg would probably be a better person to ask this.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh, PPCs have those back? *The EK SPC-60 got away with a good score only because it was not available and I was under the impression that was not coming back.*


So,you gave it a better score than it deserved because.......

At least thats how Im reading it,if so...thats not a trait for a reviewer. Unless somehow im mistaken?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> So,you gave it a better score than it deserved because.......
> 
> At least thats how Im reading it,if so...thats not a trait for a reviewer. Unless somehow im mistaken?


Probably because part of the score is based on how it stacks up against the completion? And if the only place that was selling the topsflo at the time wasn't selling it anymore can you really still consider it a competitor?


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Well its a DCP, which is a pretty weak pump after all. It works for small loops, but you get what you pay for.
> 
> A decent DDC would be quieter(if you control the speed) and will have much better flow. And if you really want something quiet, get a D5.
> 
> Depending on your loop, the EK's new SPC-60 is a great choice too for smaller loops, as its about as quiet as a D5 when you're not dealing with tons of restriction.
> 
> Another good one for smaller loops would be the Topsflo TDC, and its cheap at a mere $40.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/topsflo-tdc-silent-dc-water-cooling-pump-w-g1-4-thread-top.html
> 
> 
> Source
> 
> 
> Edit: Added topsflo and graph
> Ehm...


Thank you for the graph, I'm totally gonna look into it. Cash is a bit tight right now, about to buy the new MBP and some NVGs, so I didn't know if anyone has any cool tricks to quiet down the pump (besides lowering the speed of the pump)


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Thank you for the graph, I'm totally gonna look into it. Cash is a bit tight right now, about to buy the new MBP and some NVGs, so I didn't know if anyone has any cool tricks to quiet down the pump (besides lowering the speed of the pump)


As @VeritronX mentioned before, try decoupling it from your case. You can get a Shoggy Sandwich or just make your own.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Probably because part of the score is based on how it stacks up against the completion? And if the only place that was selling the topsflo at the time wasn't selling it anymore can you really still consider it a competitor?


My interest is not so much in the pump,rather the reviewer saying the score is essentially false because of external reasons. Availability and future availability should not even be considered. I want factual reviewing,not smoke blowing, as once your credibility is compromised then all reviews are suspect.


----------



## SteezyTN

Does anyone know if placing a flow meter at a 90 degree fitting will cause it to do a false reading? Changed my loop layout and this seems to be the best place for it.



*i know it looks bad with all the different fittings, but they are fittings I already owned lol. Had to use them because I put my fans in pull.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does anyone know if placing a flow meter at a 90 degree fitting will cause it to do a false reading? Changed my loop layout and this seems to be the best place for it.
> 
> 
> 
> *i know it looks bad with all the different fittings, but they are fittings I already owned lol. Had to use them because I put my fans in pull.


Pretty sure most flow meters require a certain length of tubing before and after the contraption to "read" the flow correctly.

EDIT: Here are instructions, so Maybe I am wrong. It doesn't state anything about a tubing length requirement









https://koolance.com/files/products/manuals/manual_ins-fm18d_d100eng.pdf

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pretty sure most flow meters require a certain length of tubing before and after the contraption to "read" the flow correctly.
> 
> EDIT: Here are instructions, so Maybe I am wrong. It doesn't state anything about a tubing length requirement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://koolance.com/files/products/manuals/manual_ins-fm18d_d100eng.pdf
> 
> TCO


Thanks. I just want to make sure so I don't get low flow and end up pulling out all my hair when it's just the issue with it being false read hahaha.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Thanks. I just want to make sure so I don't get low flow and end up pulling out all my hair when it's just the issue with it being false read hahaha.


Can you try it outside the case somehow?

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My interest is not so much in the pump,rather the reviewer saying the score is essentially false because of external reasons. Availability and future availability should not even be considered. I want factual reviewing,not smoke blowing, as once your credibility is compromised then all reviews are suspect.


Eh? Relative pricing and relative performance was in favor of the EK SPC-60 at the time of review because the Topsflo TDC was discontinued for sale as I had reviewed it then. I had spoken to Hank and he told me that it was a poor seller and he wasn't sure he would be bringing it back. With relative as well as absolute context being considered in my scoring as I continue to mention each time, I am not sure what you are on.

By that record, I should continue to monitor prices every hours and update all reviews then since the factual context of pricing can change as well. Please feel free to monitor it for me for free so I may continue to do reviews as I have at my expense


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You cant expect silence from a DDC.....


Yeah you can, when it's off lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah you can, when it's off lol


Yall act like they are horrible, and they arent. My NBeloops are louder than the pump (Not that Ive ever had a problem with the "Noise" of the pump)

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really I'll use D5 or DDC don't really have a preference. Main thing is that it does the job I need it to and fits where I need it to.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Really I'll use D5 or DDC don't really have a preference. Main thing is that it does the job I need it to and fits where I need it to.


Well said.

TCO


----------



## Nomad692000

I run 2 DCC's and there not too loud and on the chance that they did I would turn down my hearing aids.







Also no need for headphones my hearing aids connect to my pc.


----------



## chromeMKvii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomad692000*
> 
> I run 2 DCC's and there not too loud and on the chance that they did I would turn down my hearing aids.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also no need for headphones my hearing aids connect to my pc.


Well in that case, bring on the hearing loss.


----------



## Pebruska

Spoiler: MOAR!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Eh? Relative pricing and relative performance was in favor of the EK SPC-60 at the time of review because the Topsflo TDC was discontinued for sale as I had reviewed it then. I had spoken to Hank and he told me that it was a poor seller and he wasn't sure he would be bringing it back. With relative as well as absolute context being considered in my scoring as I continue to mention each time, I am not sure what you are on.
> 
> By that record, I should continue to monitor prices every hours and update all reviews then since the factual context of pricing can change as well. Please feel free to monitor it for me for free so I may continue to do reviews as I have at my expense


Before getting pissy,read the quoted text as is. Now tell me doesn't look like compromised results.....


----------



## Trestles126

I thought my bullet was tite!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: MOAR!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Before getting pissy,read the quoted text as is. Now tell me doesn't look like compromised results.....


No one getting pissy here. I don't understand where the compromised results and integrity statements are coming from. If a competing product is EOL, I don't consider it for relative pricing and performance scores. That's always been how I do things. Things get updated and discontinued all the time, that's part of the industry. I weigh both relative and absolute factors.

If you don't agree, that's fine. But I take offense to you saying my integrity is compromised. Knowing OCN, all this will be deleted soon but there it is for now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No one getting pissy here. I don't understand where the compromised results and integrity statements are coming from. If a competing product is EOL, I don't consider it for relative pricing and performance scores. That's always been how I do things. Things get updated and discontinued all the time, that's part of the industry. I weigh both relative and absolute factors.
> 
> If you don't agree, that's fine. But I take offense to you saying my integrity is compromised. Knowing OCN, all this will be deleted soon but there it is for now.


There appears to be some miscommunication,I took it as your comment was regarding performance not relative pricing. But then,that was mentioned in my first comment in response....


----------



## X-Nine

My DDC is awful. Worst pump I've ever owned as far as noise goes. It's louder than my three GTs and PSU by a magnitude of like 10. I can hear the thing running pretty much anywhere in the house.

As soon as this move is done I'm going to order a new D5... Or maybe my old one still works, probably just need to replace the o ring.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There appears to be some miscommunication,I took it as your comment was regarding performance not relative pricing. But then,that was mentioned in my first comment in response....


Not really, I am just saying what I do. Performance was mentioned too:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No one getting pissy here. I don't understand where the compromised results and integrity statements are coming from. If a competing product is EOL, I don't consider it for *relative pricing and performance* scores. That's always been how I do things. Things get updated and discontinued all the time, that's part of the industry. *I weigh both relative and absolute factors*.
> 
> If you don't agree, that's fine. But I take offense to you saying my integrity is compromised. Knowing OCN, all this will be deleted soon but there it is for now.


----------



## emsj86

Personally I do t hear my ddc pump (obviously it does make some noise but barely any) even when now I have it at 100% pwm signal I don't hear it over fans at 1000-1200. Now I did have a version of the second pump in the swiftech mcp50x which I found loud.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Personally I do t hear my ddc pump (obviously it does make some noise but barely any) even when now I have it at 100% pwm signal I don't hear it over fans at 1000-1200. Now I did have a version of the second pump in the swiftech mcp50x which I found loud.


The MCP50X is not a DDC, but yeah that's extremely loud at full speed and near about. Slow it down to ~60% PWM duty cycle and see if that still works for you. But then again, you might as well have just had a DDC or D5 if you have to slow down the MCP50X.


----------



## emsj86

I thought it was a version of a ddc. But I look to be wrong on that one. It was my first ever pump. I'll never forget it because it caught fire literally! On Christmas morning. Swiftech was great and fast o. Warranty but I switched to a 35x after that


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I thought it was a version of a ddc. But I look to be wrong on that one. It was my first ever pump. I'll never forget it because it caught fire literally! On Christmas morning. Swiftech was great and fast o. Warranty but I switched to a 35x after that


It's fairly different (MCP50X on the left, Swiftech MCP35X, a DDC, on the right):



That being said, I have seen some DDC pumps with a similar rotor design as in the MCP50X (and some Asetek pumps).


----------



## Sem

Anyone here have expedience with the Black SR-2 Radiator

would you say its worth going Push Pull on a rad with such a low FPI

using the Fractal Design HP-12 and I generally never run fans above 1200-1400 rpm


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's fairly different (MCP50X on the left, Swiftech MCP35X, a DDC, on the right):
> 
> 
> 
> That being said, *I have seen some DDC pumps with a similar rotor design as in the MCP50X* (and some Asetek pumps).


From Xylem? I have not seen a genuine Xylem DDC with open vanes ever.

The EK DDC inspired 6w pump has that open vane style impeller tho.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> From Xylem? I have not seen a genuine Xylem DDC with open vanes ever.
> 
> The EK DDC inspired 6w pump has that open vane style impeller tho.


Yeah that custom EK Predator DDC is what I was referring to. I saw another similar design used in an industrial application with open vanes as well, but that may well be a custom design too.

For others wondering, this is the pump currently used in the EK Predator 240/360:



It is different again from the pump (SPC-60) used in the newer Predator 140/280:


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah that custom EK Predator DDC is what I was referring to. I saw another similar design used in an industrial application with open vanes as well, but that may well be a custom design too.


For those of us watching at home what are the advantages of open vanes or closed vanes?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> For those of us watching at home what are the advantages of open vanes or closed vanes?


From a manufacturing standpoint or a performance view?


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> For those of us watching at home what are the advantages of open vanes or closed vanes?
> 
> 
> 
> From a manufacturing standpoint or a performance view?
Click to expand...

Purely performance. This is OCN. Its all we care about!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Purely performance. This is OCN. Its all we care about!


Amen.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> For those of us watching at home what are the advantages of open vanes or closed vanes?
> 
> 
> 
> From a manufacturing standpoint or a performance view?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> For those of us watching at home what are the advantages of open vanes or closed vanes?
> 
> 
> 
> From a manufacturing standpoint or a performance view?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Purely performance. This is OCN. Its all we care about!
Click to expand...

I think what B was getting at, is that the 2 are inter-related.

The open vanes are dirt cheap to manufacture, while the closed vanes cost considerably more.

The flip side is that the closed vanes have markedly better performance . . . . which is why that's what you see on all the premium pumps, while open vanes are what you see on all the budget offerings or cost saving packages.

D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> For those of us watching at home what are the advantages of open vanes or closed vanes?


Closed Veins allow you to stay alive, open veins give you a matter of minutes.

TCO


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> From a manufacturing standpoint or a performance view?


performance
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think what B was getting at, is that the 2 are inter-related.
> 
> The open vanes are dirt cheap to manufacture, while the closed vanes cost considerably more.
> 
> The flip side is that the closed vanes have markedly better performance . . . . which is why that's what you see on all the premium pumps, while open vanes are what you see on all the budget offerings or cost saving packages.
> 
> D.


That's what I was thinking but my google searching turned up a wash. But I was mostly looking at articles written for industrial applications.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Does anyone know if placing a flow meter at a 90 degree fitting will cause it to do a false reading? Changed my loop layout and this seems to be the best place for it.
> 
> 
> 
> *i know it looks bad with all the different fittings, but they are fittings I already owned lol. Had to use them because I put my fans in pull.


In industrial Mag meters recommend 5x diameter of straight pipe before meter and 10x diameter of pipe behind.
this is to prevent turbulence that can create incorrect readings.


----------



## mizer357

Does anyone know what GPU block this is? Specifically looking at the inlet/outlet perpendicular to the card itself. It looks like the EK-FC Terminal Direct (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-direct), except with a much smaller profile.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Closed Veins allow you to stay alive, open veins give you a matter of minutes.
> 
> TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I had to do it.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I had to do it.
> 
> TCO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Anyone here have expedience with the Black SR-2 Radiator
> 
> would you say its worth going Push Pull on a rad with such a low FPI
> 
> using the Fractal Design HP-12 and I generally never run fans above 1200-1400 rpm


As you imply in your question, there is not much performance gain to be had if opting for medium speed Push/Pull on the SR2.
360 version test data below. 240 and 280 data available also.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Does anyone know what GPU block this is? Specifically looking at the inlet/outlet perpendicular to the card itself. It looks like the EK-FC Terminal Direct (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-direct), except with a much smaller profile.


Given the circles being a prominent feature in several areas, I'm going to assume it's an EKWB CSQ block of some sort.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Does anyone know what GPU block this is? Specifically looking at the inlet/outlet perpendicular to the card itself. It looks like the EK-FC Terminal Direct (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-direct), except with a much smaller profile.


It's hard to tell exactly because the image quality is so poor and the angle is what it is. If I was a bettin' man, I'd say it's a GTX 680 block from EK. If it's from that generation, it's CSQ for sure, as Wulfe pointed out above. I don't think they made another design for the 6XX series. The card guess is based on the way the 6-pin connectors seem to be stacked, although that kinda falls apart if there's only one connector.


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Given the circles being a prominent feature in several areas, I'm going to assume it's an EKWB CSQ block of some sort.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> It's hard to tell exactly because the image quality is so poor and the angle is what it is. If I was a bettin' man, I'd say it's a GTX 680 block from EK. If it's from that generation, it's CSQ for sure, as Wulfe pointed out above. I don't think they made another design for the 6XX series. The card guess is based on the way the 6-pin connectors seem to be stacked, although that kinda falls apart if there's only one connector.


Thanks fellas. Just got an email from EK telling me something along the same lines:

*this GPU block is one of the older CSQ models which is compatible with FC Bridge & Link system.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-bridges-links-csq?p=1

The actual part with the inlet/outlet block perpendicular to the card is the FC Link part which was enclosed with CSQ style water blocks.


Recent models of GPU blocks are not compatible with the FC Bridge & Link system, they are compatible with FC Terminal system.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-block-connectivity/fc-terminals*

A shame. I like the angles you can get with the perpendicular inlet/outlet and rotary 90s, but the EK-FC Terminal Direct with fittings seems unnecessarily massive.

In any case, Thanks again.


----------



## Bogga

Just saw this...



I'm in no way close to being an expert on these things... but I watched so many videos and guides, read so many reviews before ordering all the stuff for watercooling and prior to building it. This guy obviously didn't...




Poor fellow


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I was just sick in my mouth a little....

In other news,just signed my EKWB contract,departing for Slovenia in a few weeks!!


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was just sick in my mouth a little....
> 
> In other news,just signed my EKWB contract,departing for Slovenia in a few weeks!!


Congrats


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Just saw this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in no way close to being an expert on these things... but I watched so many videos and guides, read so many reviews before ordering all the stuff for watercooling and prior to building it. This guy obviously didn't...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Poor fellow


It's all about reading directions.

TCO


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was just sick in my mouth a little....
> 
> In other news,just signed my EKWB contract,departing for Slovenia in a few weeks!!


Woho... nice









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's all about reading directions.
> 
> TCO


That pcb though... ouch


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was just sick in my mouth a little....
> 
> In other news,just signed my EKWB contract,departing for Slovenia in a few weeks!!


yeah I seen that and was...?

Congrats on the contract.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Just saw this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in no way close to being an expert on these things... but I watched so many videos and guides, read so many reviews before ordering all the stuff for watercooling and prior to building it. This guy obviously didn't...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Poor fellow


The Thermalfake bandwagonning...

Is it just me or is the flow through the GPU not proper? Instead of going through one side(right) and through the block dissipating the heat from the GPU die to the other side(left) it seems to be just going straight through the right ports and into the CPU.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Interestingly his CAD design has got GPU ports right, it's in the middle of the video. It's the execution that is lacking.







At least he's getting good flow rate.









Love those multiport XSPC waterblocks by the way, so many options to route the tubing - re-did mine few times already.


----------



## D13mass

Today I have finished water cooling in my Define R4 and I `m thinking about a new better case












What is inside:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel (Original CSQ)
EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Nickel
EK-D5 Vario Motor (12V DC Pump Motor)
EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Acetal
Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 15 LT
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm radiator
Coolgate 240mm (60mm)
Alphacool 16/10 compression fitting 90° revolvable G1/4'' + QYFREEZE
ClearFlex60 tubing 15,9/9,5mm (3/8"ID) clear
Alphacool 2-way ball valve G1/4 - Chrome



I know it`s not so nice as from others guys, but this is my first water build


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*


Nice job! That was my first case when I decided to water cool and I remember everything was a pretty tight fit.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Nice job! That was my first case when I decided to water cool and I remember everything was a pretty tight fit.


Thank you, but I`m not happy with temperature










It`s screenshot after 30 minutes gameplay in Witcher 3, on my previous Noctua NH-D14 temperature was below.

I have 4 * 120mm fans with 1200 rpm and switcher on pump works with #3.

There is some problem with CPU water block OR my cooling system not enough for system ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Not saying you didn't but did you remember to remove the protective paper on the CPU block?

If so, where is your pump lead connected?

Is it directly on CPU header or a Fan Controller?

Cause from what I see, your CPU is running a touch hotter than it should be and there are only a few reasons this could be. I mean. look at your GPU temps. 53c is quite good, so there is no reason to assume that those 240s are not enough to cool both.

So check your system for these issues.

Paper?
Connection(s?)
Fan and pump speeds.

Seems like pump speed is okay, given your GPU temp. So I would recheck this last if everything else is good.










~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Just saw this...
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in no way close to being an expert on these things... but I watched so many videos and guides, read so many reviews before ordering all the stuff for watercooling and prior to building it. This guy obviously didn't...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Poor fellow


Quote:


> Thermaltake make great products.


I stopped watching after that, then I was like it can't get worse, saw all the paste all over the gpu and was like nah my bloods boiling....


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Whats worse is the GPU is bent and he hasn't bled the loop at all.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Hey I gotta quick question for you guys.
> 
> Everyone ever mix different manufactured acrylic or petg tubing?
> 
> Would like to get some more tubing as I'll be blocking my FTW soon, and Primochill has a lower priced tubing to Monsoon. Same sizing and color, just different manufacturer. Just wanna double check, since I've never personally mixed. Thanks!


Yes, acrylic tube. I have used E-22 and Bitspower. The Bitspower acrylic tube has always been fine when used with Bitspower fittings. I have had problems with E-22 tube on two occasions. Once on my first hard line build and again the process of my current, never ending build. There are 6, 50cm lengths of oversized E-22 gathering dust on a shelf because the OD is too big for the Bitspower multi-link tightening rings ID and also won't fit inside the rigid compression fittings even after taking the O-rings out. I went so far as to lightly file the ID of the rings thinking the plating may have been too thick. It was a wasted effort.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> The Thermalfake bandwagonning...
> 
> Is it just me or is the flow through the GPU not proper? Instead of going through one side(right) and through the block dissipating the heat from the GPU die to the other side(left) it seems to be just going straight through the right ports and into the CPU.


yep...no flow on the block.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains




----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep...no flow on the block.


I wonder how many people just took an example from this guy and are wrecking their build.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Anyone here have expedience with the Black SR-2 Radiator
> 
> would you say its worth going Push Pull on a rad with such a low FPI
> 
> using the Fractal Design HP-12 and I generally never run fans above 1200-1400 rpm


This covers P/P vs Single very well


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep...no flow on the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder how many people just took an example from this guy and are wrecking their build.
Click to expand...

The comments on the youtube vids are pretty strong that the GPU is not getting any cooling.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The comments on the youtube vids are pretty strong that the GPU is not getting any cooling.


What's surprising to me is that for the part 2 video there were no fixes to the issues and/or replies to the comments.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*


Hey man, are you sure you have that terminal thingy hooked up right? I watched this video on the youtubes of this guy doing this watercooling thing in the same case. And he showed you only need to hook up the right side. And if its on the youtubes it must be right, right?











Spoiler: PS.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> What's surprising to me is that for the part 2 video there were no fixes to the issues and/or replies to the comments.


Because they were both filmed and edited on the same day plus they need to keep firing out videos for ad revenue regardless of the lacking quality and information required for it to be any use.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Whats worse is the GPU is bent and he hasn't bled the loop at all.


So my eyes wasn't playing tricks on me... the gpu looks all sorts of warped. Also, his res inlet isn't even connected to the down pipe inside LOL.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Found out today thanks to a customer to not use Thermaltakes' pastel fluids, it ended up clogging up his loop bad


----------



## LiquidHaus

lol that video.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Whats worse is the GPU is bent and he hasn't bled the loop at all.


my fav is when he brags about his temps, with no reference to ambient ....


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my fav is when he brags about his temps, with no reference to ambient ....


My temps are amazing as well if I open my window in January and let in some of that fresh New England winter air.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> My temps are amazing as well if I open my window in January and let in some of that fresh New England winter air.


Sounds like running a GTX 780 Classified on air at 1377 core and 1.4Vcore.... And how it's "doable" in the middle of a Canadian prairie winter.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my fav is when he brags about his temps, with no reference to ambient ....


The screenshot of MSI Afterburner shows 56 degrees... I'm actually surprised it didn't get hotter

When I ran Heaven my highest temp was 45 degrees and while gaming it hovers around 38-43 degrees and I'm running two overclocked 1080's in a parallel config with the cpu in the same loop (temps vary depending on how much I open the window







)

My ambient temps is quite low though, a rough estimate would be 20


----------



## wardo3640

56c was probably his idle temp. I can't believe you guys made me watch that!!


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not saying you didn't but did you remember to remove the protective paper on the CPU block?
> 
> If so, where is your pump lead connected?
> 
> Is it directly on CPU header or a Fan Controller?
> 
> Cause from what I see, your CPU is running a touch hotter than it should be and there are only a few reasons this could be. I mean. look at your GPU temps. 53c is quite good, so there is no reason to assume that those 240s are not enough to cool both.
> 
> So check your system for these issues.
> 
> Paper?
> Connection(s?)
> Fan and pump speeds.
> 
> Seems like pump speed is okay, given your GPU temp. So I would recheck this last if everything else is good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hi! thank you for answer!

Today I will check it, but
1. No Paper of course








2. Connection is good, but will check today
3. Fan speed 1200, pump speed #3 (I have vario version of D5)

I have idea: I didn`t instal in water block J2 plate, which recommended to 115X socket, still use J1 or J3, but my friend has the same plate and no problem.
And second idea - IN on video water block I setted up via VRM, OUT via core, maybe it`s a reason, but today I will change it too.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Yes, acrylic tube. I have used E-22 and Bitspower. The Bitspower acrylic tube has always been fine when used with Bitspower fittings. I have had problems with E-22 tube on two occasions. Once on my first hard line build and again the process of my current, never ending build. There are 6, 50cm lengths of oversized E-22 gathering dust on a shelf because the OD is too big for the Bitspower multi-link tightening rings ID and also won't fit inside the rigid compression fittings even after taking the O-rings out. I went so far as to lightly file the ID of the rings thinking the plating may have been too thick. It was a wasted effort.


Same problem for me, glad I'm not the only one having this problem. I tossed my E-22 stuff, only Bitspower Acrylic for me from now on.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Same problem for me, glad I'm not the only one having this problem. I tossed my E-22 stuff, only Bitspower Acrylic for me from now on.


I have a 100cm Tube of E22 12mm Acrylic at the house that I will use in my S3 pedestal build. I will report back on how it fits. This is a first time use for the E22, But I went with @B NEGATIVE recommendation for it this time around.

TCO


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> The screenshot of MSI Afterburner shows 56 degrees... I'm actually surprised it didn't get hotter


Since he's running an M.2 drive the slot he's got his gpu in is only x4. Probably helped with his temps.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have a 100cm Tube of E22 12mm Acrylic at the house that I will use in my S3 pedestal build. I will report back on how it fits. This is a first time use for the E22, But I went with @B NEGATIVE recommendation for it this time around.
> 
> TCO


I think E-22's newer stuff is supposed to have better tolerance to fix this problem. Get a cheap set of calipers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475157610&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=calipers

It will take the guess work out if you do run into trouble.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not saying you didn't but did you remember to remove the protective paper on the CPU block?
> 
> If so, where is your pump lead connected?
> 
> Is it directly on CPU header or a Fan Controller?
> 
> Cause from what I see, your CPU is running a touch hotter than it should be and there are only a few reasons this could be. I mean. look at your GPU temps. 53c is quite good, so there is no reason to assume that those 240s are not enough to cool both.
> 
> So check your system for these issues.
> 
> Paper?
> Connection(s?)
> Fan and pump speeds.
> 
> Seems like pump speed is okay, given your GPU temp. So I would recheck this last if everything else is good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi! thank you for answer!
> 
> Today I will check it, but
> 1. No Paper of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Connection is good, but will check today
> 3. Fan speed 1200, pump speed #3 (I have vario version of D5)
> 
> I have idea: I didn`t instal in water block J2 plate, which recommended to 115X socket, still use J1 or J3, but my friend has the same plate and no problem.
> And second idea - IN on video water block I setted up via VRM, OUT via core, maybe it`s a reason, but today I will change it too.
Click to expand...

I dunno, but if it were me and my fans could ramp up bit higher, that's where I would start. Should be fine on 3rd pump setting. 1200rpm is a pretty light load unless they are Low Speeds. If that's the case you need new fans.









If you're running one Rad per component, then I suggest ramping up the CPU side. Are those fans set to Exhaust? Nothing wrong with Exhaust in the top of the case. I just need to know so I can properly advise. From what I am seeing I hazard to guess that indeed they are set to Exhaust and running at 1200.









Also, being that your GPU is throwing good temps, I wouldn't fiddle with it. Why fix it if it ain't broke. Y'know?









~Ceadder


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have a 100cm Tube of E22 12mm Acrylic at the house that I will use in my S3 pedestal build. I will report back on how it fits. This is a first time use for the E22, But I went with @B NEGATIVE recommendation for it this time around.
> 
> TCO


I have had some E-22 tube that was fine. The problem is, when you only need a few lengths on an order, the shipping can cost as much as and even more than the price of the tube. Having had trouble with OD, it isn't worth the potential waste of money.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I think E-22's newer stuff is supposed to have better tolerance to fix this problem. Get a cheap set of calipers
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475157610&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=calipers
> 
> 
> 
> It will take the guess work out if you do run into trouble.


I won't need calipers to figure if it fits or not, I can assure you that. Either it fits, or it doesn't. If I sand the edges to insert into the fittings and It won't go, then it isn't any good to me. Ill follow up with you on that. I have the tube at my house but am not in the time frame to start sanding tube.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I have had some E-22 tube that was fine. The problem is, when you only need a few lengths on an order, the shipping can cost as much as and even more than the price of the tube. Having had trouble with OD, it isn't worth the potential waste of money.


I ordered mine with a big order so it wasn't bad. I think it was 8$ for 100cm (39")

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

e22 is the best tube around right now,its my goto tube for good reason...I even have to pay for it too...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> e22 is the best tube around right now,its my goto tube for good reason...I even have to pay for it too...


E22 was my favorite as well, but the last time I bought E22, it would not fit in C47's, even with the o rings removed.

I'd like to believe the issue has been resolved and E22 is back on spec, . . . .

But I also wouldn't put it past BP to have their 12mm tube made a tiny fraction undersized to match their fittings, forcing you to have to buy their tube if you want to use C47 type fittings.

D.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> E22 was my favorite as well, but the *last time I bought E22, it would not fit in C47's, even with the o rings removed.*
> 
> I'd like to believe the issue has been resolved and E22 is back on spec, . . . .
> 
> But I also wouldn't put it past BP to have their 12mm tube made a tiny fraction undersized to match their fittings, forcing you to have to buy their tube if you want to use C47 type fittings.
> 
> D.










Don't do this Diva....

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> E22 was my favorite as well, but the last time I bought E22, it would not fit in C47's, even with the o rings removed.
> 
> I'd like to believe the issue has been resolved and E22 is back on spec, . . . .
> 
> But I also wouldn't put it past BP to have their 12mm tube made a tiny fraction undersized to match their fittings, forcing you to have to buy their tube if you want to use C47 type fittings.
> 
> D.


I admit,I have not bought it for a while as I had over 10m of it...

I wonder if he cheaped out and changed suppliers?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> e22 is the best tube around right now,its my goto tube for good reason...I even have to pay for it too...


As far as the best tube around, it appears no better than Bitspower brand, and no worse, but is less consistent with OD tolerance for 12 mm. I am not questioning the quality of material used in making E-22 acrylic tube. The question is the allowable OD tolerance of E-22 acrylic tube? Most of the E-22 brand I received on my first and second order was fine. Unfortunately, order 3 was a total loss.

The largest ID of a lock ring I was able to measure is 12.15 mm, with most coming in at 12.13 mm. I have a quantity of 26 Bitspower Enhance Multi-Link fittings, 8 - 90° Enhance Multi-Link fittings and 6 - 45° Enhance Multi-Link fitting for tube size OD 12 mm. Measuring the various spots along the length of the E-22 tube, the smallest OD is 12.17 mm, the average of all lengths at 12.19 mm and the largest OD at 12.23 mm. The first two shipment oddballs were bending practice fodder. It served a purpose in the end.

I have nothing against E-22 or I wouldn't have tried them a second and third time, after having received some too large. Either PPCS was selling tube they claim is E-22 and actually isn't or E-22's OEM isn't as careful with OD as they need to be.

'Spose experiences vary. Me mum think I am a handsome lad, other women, eh, not so much!















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> E22 was my favorite as well, _but the last time I bought E22, it would not fit in C47's, even with the o rings removed._
> 
> I'd like to believe the issue has been resolved and E22 is back on spec, . . . .
> 
> *But I also wouldn't put it past BP to have their 12mm tube made a tiny fraction undersized to match their fittings, forcing you to have to buy their tube if you want to use C47 type fittings.*
> 
> D.


_That_ and *THAT*!


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno, but if it were me and my fans could ramp up bit higher, that's where I would start. Should be fine on 3rd pump setting. 1200rpm is a pretty light load unless they are Low Speeds. If that's the case you need new fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're running one Rad per component, then I suggest ramping up the CPU side. Are those fans set to Exhaust? Nothing wrong with Exhaust in the top of the case. I just need to know so I can properly advise. From what I am seeing I hazard to guess that indeed they are set to Exhaust and running at 1200.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, being that your GPU is throwing good temps, I wouldn't fiddle with it. Why fix it if it ain't broke. Y'know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you for your time and opinion








Ok, I have collected again my system.
What was done:
- I have changed plate inside water block on cpu (now it`s J2)
- I have changed IN and OUT to video water block



And finally, I was able to achieve 60/56 degrees (CPU/GPU) with 700 RPM fans OR 55/50 with 1200 RPM (but it`s a real noise).
All these temperatures in load during gaming in Witcher 3.

So, what conclusion can I do : 4 sections for 120mm not enough for my 6700K overclock (liquid metal under cover ) + 980ti overclock too.
Need more radiators, probably, I don`t know should I buy one more 3-4 sections and installing it on back wall of my case (I don`t have a place inside) OR buy MO-RA, but with MO-RA I do not need radiators inside.


----------



## Ironsmack

Those NB's have an irritating sound when used in pull.

Is your case a Fractal design R4? If so, your case is geared for silence. That could also hinder airflow on your rad.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ah, Watercooling isn't about being easy, it's about proficiency and learning. The more things you encounter in the trials and tribulations of the world of watercooling, the more apt you become with problems that arise.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Is Witcher 3 a CPU intensive game?







:

Cause you were getting 63c(CPU) temps before your tinkering. Seems like an awful lot to go through to shave 3c off your max.

Your GPU went up in the process. So you have a 6*c fluctuation in the wrong direction for your GPU. I'm not seeing the benefit that you should be seeing. It's gotta be your fans.

Do yourself a favor, before doing anything else. Crank those fans up full speed for 5-10minutes. If you see a larger than 6c difference in drops, then you know what the issue is.

Cause at this point you're not helping yourself.

That CPU block only works efficiently when the flow is going the correct direction. I don't have a FC block on my GPUs but I've seen that it's not that big a deal. I wouldn't even mess with the jetplate now, since you've already changed it to the recommended plate. So it's only going to hurt your ears for a few minutes if you crank up those fans. So give em a rip!









~Ceadder


----------



## D13mass

Guys, it`s my temperature after 30 minutes gameplay, as you can see during a game it was 1165 RPM (it`s 100% fans)


----------



## Ceadderman

*MUCH* better.

Now I would suggest finding a happy medium. Turning your fans down to a liveable sound profile while cooling your system somewhere that you can live with.

It's either that or pull out some gaming cans and leave the fans cranked at max.









Well okay, maybe not "much". but it is better. What fans are you using? Are they 1200rpm units?

Pulled this off Newegg...
"Fin spacing is always an important factor in radiator design. The new series from Alphacool has a fin design which allows it to perform extremely well even with slow-spinning and medium-speed fans. This is not only pleasant thanks to the fact that it avoids unnecessary noise; it also means that the choice of fans that can be used with these radiators is not restricted."...

I have a huge problem with this. This is for the Alphacool 240. And nowhere does it tell you exactly how many FPI the Radiator has. That's first.

Second is that they use a one size fits all approach. Which is dead wrong. I had a high FPI HWLabs Stealth 360. Trust me when I say that during the winter months a low to mid range fan is pretty decent. But for 3/4 of the year? Mid to High RPM fans are much better.

My rule of thumb is the higher the flow the better with a high FPI Radiator.

And the opposite for a low FPI Radiator.

But then there are also fans that are intended to work with Radiators. I never used them til now. But these came with the Predator and they do a bang up job keeping things chilly on my client's maxxed out(Folding) i7-4790k.









Which Coolgate is that? The G2?









~Ceadder


----------



## krutoydiesel

Gents,

Is it possible to convert an EK Supremacy MX to one that has a plexi top like the nickel/plexi EK Supremacy EVO?

Or do I have to just buy the Supremacy EVO.


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> My temps are amazing as well if I open my window in January and let in some of that fresh New England winter air.


HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *MUCH* better.
> 
> Now I would suggest finding a happy medium. Turning your fans down to a liveable sound profile while cooling your system somewhere that you can live with.
> 
> It's either that or pull out some gaming cans and leave the fans cranked at max.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well okay, maybe not "much". but it is better. What fans are you using? Are they 1200rpm units?
> 
> Pulled this off Newegg...
> "Fin spacing is always an important factor in radiator design. The new series from Alphacool has a fin design which allows it to perform extremely well even with slow-spinning and medium-speed fans. This is not only pleasant thanks to the fact that it avoids unnecessary noise; it also means that the choice of fans that can be used with these radiators is not restricted."...
> 
> I have a huge problem with this. This is for the Alphacool 240. And nowhere does it tell you exactly how many FPI the Radiator has. That's first.
> 
> Second is that they use a one size fits all approach. Which is dead wrong. I had a high FPI HWLabs Stealth 360. Trust me when I say that during the winter months a low to mid range fan is pretty decent. But for 3/4 of the year? Mid to High RPM fans are much better.
> 
> My rule of thumb is the higher the flow the better with a high FPI Radiator.
> 
> And the opposite for a low FPI Radiator.
> 
> But then there are also fans that are intended to work with Radiators. I never used them til now. But these came with the Predator and they do a bang up job keeping things chilly on my client's maxxed out(Folding) i7-4790k.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which Coolgate is that? The G2?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I use 4 "Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-2 " and my top radiator Coolgate 240 (I don`t know FPI), only for top radiator fans work in pull. I will try change to push


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Gents,
> 
> Is it possible to convert an EK Supremacy MX to one that has a plexi top like the nickel/plexi EK Supremacy EVO?
> 
> Or do I have to just buy the Supremacy EVO.


Yup







I've been using an evo top on an MX base for about 6 months now. I bought the top and an extra o-ring, but you really only need the plexi top.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> My temps are amazing as well if I open my window in January and let in some of that fresh New England winter air.


I agree on that one







#braceyourself #winteriscoming #swedishvikings


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Yup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using an evo top on an MX base for about 6 months now. I bought the top and an extra o-ring, but you really only need the plexi top.


Seriously appreciate the quick reply and the picture.

HMMMM. Decisions, the copper bothers me most. But, does it bother me enough to buy the EVO/ and or Heatkiller IV PRO Nickel/clean acrylic.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Seriously appreciate the quick reply and the picture.
> 
> HMMMM. Decisions, *the copper bothers me most.* But, does it bother me enough to buy the EVO/ and or Heatkiller IV PRO Nickel/clean acrylic.










... right in the feels man
jk
I do love me some copper though


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... right in the feels man
> jk
> I do love me some copper though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Eh, your build matches it pretty well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not a bleedin thing wrong with Copper.









A lot less headaches than Nickel imho. But so long as it's not Aluminium, I can use either. Prefer Copper however. :2ccents:

~Ceadder


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Eh, your build matches it pretty well.










awww, stop it


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not a bleedin thing wrong with Copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot less headaches than Nickel imho. But so long as it's not Aluminium, I can use either. Prefer Copper however. :2ccents:
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have no issue with copper either, but the aesthetic simply doesn't go with my build. I actually want to do a copper blocks build someday.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, it`s my temperature after 30 minutes gameplay, as you can see during a game it was 1165 RPM (it`s 100% fans)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you taken the front and top panel off and see if that makes a difference?


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... right in the feels man
> jk
> I do love me some copper though


That looks awesome!

When I first saw this photo I thought something looked odd then realised the case was on its back to pass through the cabling and tubing into the desk







. Really like the unconventional thinking outside of the box that makes this and so many other examples on this thread great :thumbsup: .

Edit: sorry, on mobile so I can't see the correct thumbs up emoti. Would be nice to get an emoticon button on the mobile UI.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> Since he's running an M.2 drive the slot he's got his gpu in is only x4. Probably helped with his temps.


i dont think that is a limitation of this mobo. i know there is an asrock with that "issue" though (ultra m.2 slot)


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Have you taken the front and top panel off and see if that makes a difference?


Sure, it was first what I did. No difference, probably not enough radiators, need more.
I am thinking about Mo-Ra 360


----------



## Scottland

Thought I'd put my first custom loop in the gallery, still got a few little bits to tidy up - and I'm not completely happy with the colour of the water as the mayhems tubing has a slight blue tinge it makes the 'aqua' colour too blue. If you look at the water in the CPU block it's actually more of a greenish blue.

Build is as follows:
2 * HW Labs Nemesis 240 (X-Flow)
EK Supremacy Evo
EK GTX 1080 w/block (Palit Jetstream)
Fittings are all Barrow

On the other side of the case, out of site is an Aquacomputer D5 pump and EK res combo, as well as the drain port.

I'm more concerned with silence than temperatures, I'm just hitting 50 C when gaming on both the CPU and GPU, with the fans around 500rpm and pump on the lowest speed - which I'm pretty satisfied with.


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> i dont think that is a limitation of this mobo. i know there is an asrock with that "issue" though (ultra m.2 slot)


My memory failed me.

From the mobo specs, "* The M2_32G connector shares bandwidth with the PCIEX16_3 slot. When the M2_32G connector is populated, the PCIEX16_3 slot operates at up to x8 mode." So x8 not x4.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Scottland great build







I am doing a build in a cooltek w2 right now. Fun case to work with


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> And finally, I was able to achieve 60/56 degrees (CPU/GPU) with 700 RPM fans OR 55/50 with 1200 RPM (but it`s a real noise).
> All these temperatures in load during gaming in Witcher 3.
> 
> So, what conclusion can I do : 4 sections for 120mm not enough for my 6700K overclock (liquid metal under cover ) + 980ti overclock too.
> Need more radiators, probably, I don`t know should I buy one more 3-4 sections and installing it on back wall of my case (I don`t have a place inside) OR buy MO-RA, but with MO-RA I do not need radiators inside.


? 1200rpm noisy? Then my e-Loops at 1700-1800rpm must be jet engines.







(Just being a bit silly) Mine have been in pull for over a year. Never heard the annoying noise that everyone keeps saying the fans do.

Still, that does seem to be high temps. Something seems funky considering I use only on 360 rad and a big 200 rad, and keep two heavy OC 980Tis and a 4770K cooled lower than those temps that considering I fold on the Tis and BOINC on the 4770K.

Only thing I don't see mention is your ambient.


----------



## Kimir

It depends on which rad they are used, I don't have weird noise either with my eloop and my 360 monsta (in P/P).


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It depends on which rad they are used, I don't have weird noise either with my eloop and my 360 monsta (in P/P).


Hmmm, is the fin density what causes the odd noise that others mention or just the design of the rad?

I have mine in pull on a Black Ice Stealth 360.


----------



## Iceman2733

Hoping you guys can help I keep getting some kind of white marks inside of my CPU block. I have taken the CPU loop down twice and cleaned the block. Upon inspection without fluid whatever the white is doesn't seem to leave any kind of stain on paper towel and the stain just wipes off of the acrylic. Problem the stain starts reappearing in a couple of days. Kind of odd, the loop was going for several months on blood red x1 and than I switched to pastal and noticed this issue.
















Any help would be great not sure what else to do hate to keep taking the loop down and wasting thermal compound

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, is the fin density what causes the odd noise that others mention or just the design of the rad?
> 
> I have mine in pull on a Black Ice Stealth 360.


Yeah I guess so, fin density and distance between the casing and the fins as well.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> ? 1200rpm noisy? Then my e-Loops at 1700-1800rpm must be jet engines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Just being a bit silly) Mine have been in pull for over a year. Never heard the annoying noise that everyone keeps saying the fans do.
> 
> Still, that does seem to be high temps. Something seems funky considering I use only on 360 rad and a big 200 rad, and keep two heavy OC 980Tis and a 4770K cooled lower than those temps that considering I fold on the Tis and BOINC on the 4770K.
> 
> Only thing I don't see mention is your ambient.


For me comfortable when silent







and for 1200 RPM I`m hearing noise, I can create a video))


----------



## toggLesss

finished her last night... didnt really have time to get good images before leaving for the weekend.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finished her last night... didnt really have time to get good images before leaving for the weekend.


Looking really good, to bad you didn't use the instructions from the previously posted guide for that case


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Looking really good, to bad you didn't use the instructions from the previously posted guide for that case


am i missing something? do elaborate.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> am i missing something? do elaborate.


Yea, Joke, It was about how the GPU was hooked up. Your build is all good. No worries.

TCO


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea, Joke, It was about how the GPU was hooked up. Your build is all good. No worries.
> 
> TCO


10-4

the [vertical mounted] GPU on this build (and many other from what i gather) as been a complete pain in the arse... but im determined. ...or maybe just stubborn. ...or maybe just an idiot. i mean, i did sell an SMA8 and ended up with a Thermaltake....


----------



## LiquidHaus

all this talk about eloops and high fin radiators and i'm just sitting here looking at this


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> 10-4
> 
> the [vertical mounted] GPU on this build (and many other from what i gather) as been a complete pain in the arse... but im determined. ...or maybe just stubborn. ...or maybe just an idiot. *i mean, i did sell an SMA8 and ended up with a Thermaltake*....


I won't comment on that.

TCO


----------



## Kimir

You just did.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I won't comment on that.
> 
> TCO


you speak the loudest... when say nothing at all.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You just did.


I commented about what I wouldn't comment about. That was all.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> you speak the loudest... when saying nothing at all.


I was more than willing to walk through over 3 Feet of water and attempt to hoist my SMA8 over my head during the flood that happened less than a month ago in order to not lose the case or the components that were built into it.

What does that tell you?

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I commented about what I wouldn't comment about. That was all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was more than willing to walk through over 3 Feet of water and attempt to hoist my SMA8 over my head during the flood that happened less than a month ago in order to not lose the case or the components that were built into it.
> 
> What does that tell you?
> 
> TCO


You bought a house in the wrong place?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You bought a house in the wrong place?


It was just an apartment thankfully, but I lived on the River. It hadn't flooded like that in Louisiana since 1940









Now I live on the Second Floor of a different apartment about 3 miles from the Old one.









Cost me another 200$ a month now though.... That's the MCP 35x's I need right now









TCO


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Hoping you guys can help I keep getting some kind of white marks inside of my CPU block. I have taken the CPU loop down twice and cleaned the block. Upon inspection without fluid whatever the white is doesn't seem to leave any kind of stain on paper towel and the stain just wipes off of the acrylic. Problem the stain starts reappearing in a couple of days. Kind of odd, the loop was going for several months on blood red x1 and than I switched to pastal and noticed this issue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be great not sure what else to do hate to keep taking the loop down and wasting thermal compound
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


Pastel is a nano fluid. What you are seeing is the nano particles collecting in tight places. There's nothing wrong with it and really no way to prevent it unless you change fluid type. GPU blocks get it worse.


----------



## eucalyptus

help help help folks























I wonder... If, you can split a loop, combine it and then split it again?









I am on a MBP, so paint online had to do the job







Hope you get the idea









No restrictive water blocks or radiators between. Only a lot of fittings, tubing and 8 flow meters









** I should maybe mention that the pump are an Alphacool DDC 10W


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yeah I guess so, fin density and distance between the casing and the fins as well.


Thought so, I just have a habit of using rubber grommets in between my radiators and case, then fan rubber grommets on the fans themselves. Probably the reason I don't get all the noise others get. Though, my right ear is partly shot from working around jet engines. Just glad the tinnitus does not fire off all the blasted time in that ear. Talk about a noise that will drive you up a wall, ringing in one's ear for 1 to 3mins is no fun.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Thought so, I just have a habit of using rubber grommets to between my radiators and case, then fan rubber grommets on the fans themselves. Probably the reason I don't get all the noise others get. Though, my right ear is partly shot from working around jet engines. Just glad the tinnitus does not fire off all the blasted time in that ear. Talk about a noise that will drive you up a wall, ringing in one's ear for *1 to 3mins is no fun.*


I worked on the Planes too! Hydraulic mechanic but on P3 Diesel motors. I would launch them on the tarmac, but after being in the airfield I have the same ringing. Kinda freaks me out on occasion, but then just turn up the music in the headphones.

TCO


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I worked on the Planes too! Hydraulic mechanic but on P3 Diesel motors. I would launch them on the tarmac, but after being in the airfield I have the same ringing. Kinda freaks me out on occasion, but then just turn up the music in the headphones.
> 
> TCO


Yep, six year jet mech in AF here.







Even with ear plugs and such. The engines and fans just make a whole lot of noise and are loud.

Reason I like being in the Guard now and working on computers. Way less noise, and not being burn up, rain on, oil splashed on me, hydraulic, or JP-8 on me was well. I just have to deal with dumb, dumbs who lock their accounts or computers out during exercises.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yep, six year jet mech in AF here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with ear plugs and such. The engines and fans just make a whole lot of noise and are loud.
> 
> Reason I like being in the Guard now and working on computers. Way less noise, and not being burn up, rain on, oil splashed on me, hydraulic, or JP-8 on me was well. I just have to deal with dumb, dumbs who lock their accounts or computers out during exercises.


It was the hydraulic fluid that was impossible to clean up, insanity at it's finest.

TCO


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It was the hydraulic fluid that was impossible to clean up, insanity at it's finest.
> 
> TCO


....yeah, that stuff is annoying. More so when you get a engine from the barn and you install it on the jet. Then find out during the run, the engine has one of the connections on the main hydro line from the rebuild is not tight and the stuff goes everywhere.

Then cleaning several quarts of it off the flight line and engine at night. Plus, having pissed off hydro troops since the whole hydro system on the jet has to be tested then refilled. Thank goodness if was not the largest and main hydro system that drives the majority of stuff on the jet.

Though we did have fun with the new troops.







Aka, jet keys, K9P13 (we actually had the security forces help us out on this), jet exhaust test, etc.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey all.. I want to join two radiators together with a single connector is this the one I need?

One is vertical the other is horizontal so from the vertical it will be a 90 degree and then straight into the radiator from there.

So I need a M-M on both sides but I need to be able to screw it in with the radiators in place.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-nickel.html#Additional-Information

Like this pic but with a single fitting and not 2 fittings and a small tube


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I commented about what I wouldn't comment about. That was all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was more than willing to walk through over 3 Feet of water and attempt to hoist my SMA8 over my head during the flood that happened less than a month ago in order to not lose the case or the components that were built into it.
> 
> What does that tell you?
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> You bought a house in the wrong place?
Click to expand...



























...



















Sorry TC0....









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry TC0....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I would expect nothing less. I stick around because I am a free spirit (Well sorta)









In know you and Bneg Secretly love me









TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry TC0....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would expect nothing less. I stick around because I am a free spirit (Well sorta)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Please tell me your carrier is not Allstate?









Those guys have been known to refuse claims on the basis of "you built in a flood plane". I lived near Sacratomato an they were flooded out pretty good. Allstate seriously told the Homeowners this so they didn't have to pay out. My thought at the time is "what the hades?!? what about the poor sods who bought homes in that area that had zero idea it was a flood plane, an in the second.... why bother having home insurance if you don't cover what's in the bill that was signed!". It's cause of them that I won't ever have them as my carrier for ANYTHING. I get it, but that was flat out wrong.









So.... did your CLabs go straight away to a Therapist after you rescued it?


















~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Please tell me your carrier is not Allstate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Those guys have been known to refuse claims on the basis of "you built in a flood plane". I lived near Sacratomato an they were flooded out pretty good. Allstate seriously told the Homeowners this so they didn't have to pay out. My thought at the time is "what the hades?!? what about the poor sods who bought homes in that area that had zero idea it was a flood plane, an in the second.... why bother having home insurance if you don't cover what's in the bill that was signed!". It's cause of them that I won't ever have them as my carrier for ANYTHING. I get it, but that was flat out wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So.... did your CLabs go straight away to a Therapist after you rescued it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No I don't work for insurance companies. I sell cars.

The CLabs didn't go to therapy. I sat it down, pulled up a chair and I spoke to it for a while, letting it know what happened and that Pop had it's back the whole time, There was Never anything to worry about in the First place.

We drank a cup of tea, and laughed it off.



TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

That's all well an good til signs of PTSD start showing.







lulz



~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's all well an good til signs of PTSD start showing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


At that point I will just slap it around a little and that should settle it.

TCO


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Hey all.. I want to join two radiators together with a single connector is this the one I need?
> 
> One is vertical the other is horizontal so from the vertical it will be a 90 degree and then straight into the radiator from there.
> 
> So I need a M-M on both sides but I need to be able to screw it in with the radiators in place.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-nickel.html#Additional-Information
> 
> Like this pic but with a single fitting and not 2 fittings and a small tube


To do it like the pic, you're going to need the M-M you linked to and a rotary 90, minimally. Depending on the distance the rads are separated, you may need some G1/4 M-F extensions as well.


----------



## RexPL666




----------



## Ceadderman

Good thing I know that flower. That flash is hideous.









Your first?









~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

New stuffs in my sale thread guys! Stop by an take a peek if you've got the time an you're browsing.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Hoping you guys can help I keep getting some kind of white marks inside of my CPU block. I have taken the CPU loop down twice and cleaned the block. Upon inspection without fluid whatever the white is doesn't seem to leave any kind of stain on paper towel and the stain just wipes off of the acrylic. Problem the stain starts reappearing in a couple of days. Kind of odd, the loop was going for several months on blood red x1 and than I switched to pastal and noticed this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be great not sure what else to do hate to keep taking the loop down and wasting thermal compound
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


It's a dead spot on the block and pastel turns powder white in those areas. Usually it's on thread of fittings and bottom of reservoir threads.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> That looks awesome!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> When I first saw this photo I thought something looked odd then realised the case was on its back to pass through the cabling and tubing into the desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Really like the unconventional thinking outside of the box that makes this and so many other examples on this thread great :thumbsup: .
> 
> Edit: sorry, on mobile so I can't see the correct thumbs up emoti. Would be nice to get an emoticon button on the mobile UI.


Thanks man, I really appreciate it! I've got the itch to do something new but I can't bring my self to let this go, and I can't afford an *entire seperate* build (by a long shot)







. So I'm thinking about re-doing the res setup with Monsoon's MMRS, as well as changing up some flow path possibilities in the table with more QDC's


----------



## LiquidHaus

The card isn't waterblocked yet - still waiting on Watercool to finish up their FTW block.

But I went ahead and figured it was a good time to test out Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut on the ACX 3.0 cooler.



Dropped temps by 6-9c

Great performer if anyone was interested.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> The card isn't waterblocked yet - still waiting on Watercool to finish up their FTW block.
> 
> But I went ahead and figured it was a good time to test out Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut on the ACX 3.0 cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Dropped temps by 6-9c
> *
> Great performer if anyone was interested.


I was interested, yes. When you feel like shipping the rest of what you don't use, Ill toss you that address.










TCO


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was interested, yes. When you feel like shipping the rest of what you don't use, Ill toss you that address.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Haha, indeed I did buy quite a bit.

It's their 11.1g syringe.

Figured since I'm tearing apart my system soon for a new case, I'd use this on the proc and then also on my girlfriend's Strix 1060.

After all that, I'll think on it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Haha, indeed I did buy quite a bit.
> 
> It's their 11.1g syringe.
> 
> Figured since I'm tearing apart my system soon for a new case, I'd use this on the proc and then also on my girlfriend's Strix 1060.
> 
> After all that, I'll think on it


ETA?

TCO


----------



## LiquidHaus

Figured some more hardware pr0n wouldn't hurt


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Figured some more hardware pr0n wouldn't hurt


What lens are you using?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> What lens are you using?


sigma 50 f1.4


----------



## Killa Cam

does anyone have experience using a pwm d5 pump with gigabyte motherboards - preferably z170 chipset?


----------



## Bogga

TCO: What does that tell you?

B-Neg: You bought a house in the wrong place...

I feel ashamed and I'm really sorry TCO... I usually don't laugh, I might giggle sometimes. But I really lol'ed (as the kids say) when I read that


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New log up.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1612733/s-frame-plum-blossom/0_20#post_25555000


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> TCO: What does that tell you?
> 
> B-Neg: You bought a house in the wrong place...
> 
> I feel ashamed and I'm really sorry TCO... I usually don't laugh, I might giggle sometimes. But I really lol'ed (as the kids say) when I read that


No worries







Bneg got me on that one









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New log up.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1612733/s-frame-plum-blossom/0_20#post_25555000


Frame looke good already. Tell us what you think of the Rampage yeah?

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> does anyone have experience using a pwm d5 pump with gigabyte motherboards - preferably z170 chipset?


chipset won't matter whats your problem


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> does anyone have experience using a pwm d5 pump with gigabyte motherboards - preferably z170 chipset?
> 
> 
> 
> chipset won't matter whats your problem
Click to expand...

And the next question would be; "Which PWM D5 is it?"

The board may not have a built in pullup, so you may have to do the diva Mod.

D.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And the next question would be; "Which PWM D5 is it?"
> 
> The board may not have a built in pullup, so you may have to do the diva Mod.
> 
> D.


I have a swiftech D5 PWM that works fine with PWM signals,etc. My XSPC D5 PWM has problems though. I use a corsair link commander mini, in which the swiftech works fine. The XSPC one only runs at like 3000 RPM on it, but it works fine with my ASUS Maximus VI hero Motherboard.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I love the CPU block orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


It actually cools better if you rotate it CCW 90 degrees.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> TCO: What does that tell you?
> 
> B-Neg: You bought a house in the wrong place...
> 
> I feel ashamed and I'm really sorry TCO... I usually don't laugh, I might giggle sometimes. But I really lol'ed (as the kids say) when I read that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bneg got me on that one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I also have to come clean here, and admit that I got a chuckle out of BNEG's comment.
No matter how bad things may get at times, we've all got to have a sense of humor!


----------



## Mack42

Anyone built in a Define S with 2 360mm radiators?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> Anyone built in a Define S with 2 360mm radiators?


I've seen quite a few, its definitely possible if that's what you were asking.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> It actually cools better if you rotate it CCW 90 degrees.


I believe you are referring to running a block in "Goofy" which I can understand where you are coming from, though the comment was made in context of Not the physical Cpu block orientation, but how the tubing was done around it.

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And the next question would be; "Which PWM D5 is it?"
> 
> The board may not have a built in pullup, so you may have to do the diva Mod.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a swiftech D5 PWM that works fine with PWM signals,etc. My XSPC D5 PWM has problems though. I use a corsair link commander mini, in which the swiftech works fine. The XSPC one only runs at like 3000 RPM on it, but it works fine with my ASUS Maximus VI hero Motherboard.
Click to expand...

Yep you need the diva mod. There is nothing wrong with the pump. The OEM for the pump did not follow pwm spec when making the pwm portion. Some will function and some won't. Some even function ok then lose control. Then ok again ect....


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yep you need the diva mod. There is nothing wrong with the pump. The OEM for the pump did not follow pwm spec when making the pwm portion. Some will function and some won't. Some even function ok then lose control. Then ok again ect....


Yeah. I wasn't the one asking the question though. Just wanted to share how mine are


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry:/ rough day. I am at my brother's funeral. Kinda just gliding through it atm...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry:/ rough day. I am at my brother's funeral. Kinda just gliding through it atm...


Hey, no worries. Nothing to be sorry for. And Sorry to hear about your brother. Best wishes...


----------



## Ceadderman

My sympathies to you and your family MM.









~Ceadder


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys quick question, Would I be able to run GPU's like this?

I want to take the left tube between the gpus out. The bottom right is going in and left bottom tube is going out and passes through to the rad.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys quick question, Would I be able to run GPU's like this?
> 
> I want to take the left tube between the gpus out. The bottom right is going in and left bottom tube is going out and passes through to the rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sure, that is a parallel setup, instead of series or serial. The flowrate will be lower in each block, but so will the overall restriction on the entire loop. I've ran my 2 980's both ways and never noticed a temp difference.


----------



## Mega Man

You can. But both gpus need a in and a out. So you would need to put an out somewhere

Also tyvm everyone....


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I believe you are referring to running a block in "Goofy" which I can understand where you are coming from, though the comment was made in context of Not the physical Cpu block orientation, but how the tubing was done around it.
> 
> TCO


Yes I see that. I also see multiple setups where the cpu blocks are either upside down or not optimal (especially for OC'ing). Here are some test results.

Note they are different for different motherboards. For example, on the Z170 board, 'goofy' runs cooler. The linked results do not cover this board though (looking for results that do). Point being, research what is best for your own system.


----------



## IT Diva

Thought maybe some might like how I integrated the pumps and res together as a module with coolant passages bored thru the baseplate for one of the S5 builds.

Need to bend a tube tomorrow and bore the passages in the baseplate for the pump wires, but I'm liking how it makes a nice visual feature in the full width window, which was the intent all along.,

Darlene


----------



## charliebrown

i have a alphacool d5 acrylic top its square i hate it now anybody ever grind down a top before if so give me some pointers

thanks


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought maybe some might like how I integrated the pumps and res together as a module with coolant passages bored thru the baseplate for one of the S5 builds.
> 
> Need to bend a tube tomorrow and bore the passages in the baseplate for the pump wires, but I'm liking how it makes a nice visual feature in the full width window, which was the intent all along.,
> 
> Darlene


Very nice







love the placement of dat res


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> chipset won't matter whats your problem


no problem, in the market for a pwm d5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And the next question would be; "Which PWM D5 is it?"
> 
> The board may not have a built in pullup, so you may have to do the diva Mod.
> 
> D.


will i still need to do the mod for the aquacomputer pwm d5 pumps?


----------



## Ceadderman

@charliebrown Sell top get New round Pump top.









~Ceadder


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


Very cool... the under cabinet lighting is lovely.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> chipset won't matter whats your problem
> 
> 
> 
> no problem, in the market for a pwm d5.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And the next question would be; "Which PWM D5 is it?"
> 
> The board may not have a built in pullup, so you may have to do the diva Mod.
> 
> D.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> will i still need to do the mod for the aquacomputer pwm d5 pumps?
Click to expand...

No.

They are good to go right out of the box, as well as the new GEN 2 PWM D5's from EK . . .


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Thank you for your time and opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have collected again my system.
> What was done:
> - I have changed plate inside water block on cpu (now it`s J2)
> - I have changed IN and OUT to video water block
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, I was able to achieve 60/56 degrees (CPU/GPU) with 700 RPM fans OR 55/50 with 1200 RPM (but it`s a real noise).
> All these temperatures in load during gaming in Witcher 3.
> 
> So, what conclusion can I do : 4 sections for 120mm not enough for my 6700K overclock (liquid metal under cover ) + 980ti overclock too.
> Need more radiators, probably, I don`t know should I buy one more 3-4 sections and installing it on back wall of my case (I don`t have a place inside) OR buy MO-RA, but with MO-RA I do not need radiators inside.


Hi all! During last few days I made a lot of attempts change something in my build:

I have added extra 2*140mm fans on front radiator
I have changed fans from pull to push mode
and blah blah
So, 4 sections by 120mm and 4 silent fans aren`t enough for 6700k and 980ti.


Screen after my Sunday









So, I am going to add one more radiator and I need advice:
1. Buy something looks like XSPC EX560 Quad Fan Low Profile http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-ex560-quad-fan-low-profile-high-performance-radiator-white.html and install it to right panel of the case outside (it will be some strange constructions, it`s photo of my friend, not my!!







).



OR
2. Buy a Mo-Ra3 9*140mm (why 420 version and not 360 - because I have a lot of 140mm fans)

Mo-Ra will be more expensive, but and more performance!

1 radiator will be cost for me 100$ (because I live very far) while Mo-Ra 3 will be cost 160 $, but for mo-ra I have to pay quick disconnectors probably


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thought maybe some might like how I integrated the pumps and res together as a module with coolant passages bored thru the baseplate for one of the S5 builds.
> 
> Need to bend a tube tomorrow and bore the passages in the baseplate for the pump wires, but I'm liking how it makes a nice visual feature in the full width window, which was the intent all along.,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love the placement of dat res
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I made the inlet tube for the res to feed the pump, and bored the cable management passages for the pump's wiring.

Here you can see the pump "connects" to the base with a D Plug.

Will be changing out all the C47's to white when the next PPCs order arrives, and also thinking about changing the 4 res "feet" to white instead of the clear.







Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im impressed by the boring,its not easy at those depths, Done by yourself?


----------



## Ceadderman

Gives me some ideas for my MB tray. That looks absolutely fantastic.









~Ceadder


----------



## Idef1x

I know this is not strctly watercooling related, but I switched back to my old GT AP-15 and got a new fan hub to connect them all. while doing so, I got rid of a lot of cabling and I like the end result:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im impressed by the boring,its not easy at those depths, Done by yourself?


Yes,

I'm one of those old skoolers who would rather have something come out a 7 or 8 out of 10 and be done 100% by myself, as opposed to farming even part of it out, even if it is a surefire 10 of 10.

I don't learn, or gain any experience, when someone else does the work or uses tools I don't have or have access to.

When it comes to boring deep passages . . . . in acrylic . . .

The trick I have found, besides the experience of feeling when the bit is near to galling and pulling out in time, is to have a spray bottle of lubricant water to cool the bit frequently and lubricate the bore.

D.


----------



## roamin

Cleaning the loop in my s8!


----------



## emsj86

@ITDiva veryninterestednin the build. How and what exactly is needed to make an acrylic pass through channels. I've been wanting to make one for a long time but don't feel like I would need a Cnc machine to make what I want.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all! During last few days I made a lot of attempts change something in my build:
> 
> I have added extra 2*140mm fans on front radiator
> I have changed fans from pull to push mode
> and blah blah
> So, 4 sections by 120mm and 4 silent fans aren`t enough for 6700k and 980ti.
> 
> 
> Screen after my Sunday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I am going to add one more radiator and I need advice:
> 1. Buy something looks like XSPC EX560 Quad Fan Low Profile http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-ex560-quad-fan-low-profile-high-performance-radiator-white.html and install it to right panel of the case outside (it will be some strange constructions, it`s photo of my friend, not my!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> OR
> 2. Buy a Mo-Ra3 9*140mm (why 420 version and not 360 - because I have a lot of 140mm fans)
> 
> Mo-Ra will be more expensive, but and more performance!
> 
> 1 radiator will be cost for me 100$ (because I live very far) while Mo-Ra 3 will be cost 160 $, but for mo-ra I have to pay quick disconnectors probably


Your CPU temps are good, your GPU seems little high. Have you tried remounting the gpu block. Also you could try making both rads intake with push/pull configs. You may have to add an exhaust fan in the rear to pull out the extra hot air. 4x120 should be plenty of rad space if you optimize it. Keep trying different things before you throw more money at it.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> I made the inlet tube for the res to feed the pump, and bored the cable management passages for the pump's wiring.
> 
> Here you can see the pump "connects" to the base with a D Plug.
> 
> Will be changing out all the C47's to white when the next PPCs order arrives, and also thinking about changing the 4 res "feet" to white instead of the clear.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


That is amazing! You do this with a drill press or some sort of jig set up?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Cleaning the loop in my s8!


Nice tube bend work, love it!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So...

Its been a while.....

But not forgotten!



First stage paint on today and I machined the plastic inserts for the side panels!


----------



## SteezyTN

Waited so long to finally use this new mousepad and new mouse. Need to replace the keyboard though. Loop is all done. This loop is by far my most favorite. Won't be changing for a good while. Still deciding if it's worth it to open two new bottles of Pastel Ice White and red to top of the reservoirs.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Your CPU temps are good, your GPU seems little high. Have you tried remounting the gpu block. Also you could try making both rads intake with push/pull configs. You may have to add an exhaust fan in the rear to pull out the extra hot air. 4x120 should be plenty of rad space if you optimize it. Keep trying different things before you throw more money at it.


No







temp of CPU it`s not OK, because I have liquid metal under cover, before water cooling I have used Noctua NH-D14 for CPU (max temp was 55°) and for GPU was Kraken G 10 + Corsair H55 (55° max too).
I am waiting from water better temperatures and silent


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> I'm one of those old skoolers who would rather have something come out a 7 or 8 out of 10 and be done 100% by myself, as opposed to farming even part of it out, even if it is a surefire 10 of 10.
> 
> I don't learn, or gain any experience, when someone else does the work or uses tools I don't have or have access to.
> 
> When it comes to boring deep passages . . . . in acrylic . . .
> 
> The trick I have found, besides the experience of feeling when the bit is near to galling and pulling out in time, is to have a spray bottle of lubricant water to cool the bit frequently and lubricate the bore.
> 
> D.


your build looks good! your attitude towards doing things is the same as me, without doing things yourself you will never know how to do anything. just finished getting my s8 going last night and that was the first time i bent a tube, what a nightmare at times and even when you feel like giving up you must push through!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @ITDiva veryninterestednin the build. How and what exactly is needed to make an acrylic pass through channels. I've been wanting to make one for a long time but don't feel like I would need a Cnc machine to make what I want.


if you have access to a good drill press thats square then you can get away with making one on a drill press and a g1/4 tap for tapping threads for the fittings.








you dont always need expensive cnc machines and so on.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> I'm one of those old skoolers who would rather have something come out a 7 or 8 out of 10 and be done 100% by myself, as opposed to farming even part of it out, even if it is a surefire 10 of 10.
> 
> I don't learn, or gain any experience, when someone else does the work or uses tools I don't have or have access to.
> 
> When it comes to boring deep passages . . . . in acrylic . . .
> 
> The trick I have found, besides the experience of feeling when the bit is near to galling and pulling out in time, is to have a spray bottle of lubricant water to cool the bit frequently and lubricate the bore.
> 
> D.


Nice work !
I couldn't find a good pic of a high speed twist drill modified to drill acrylic this was the best one I could find you must have either modified yours or have a speciality acrylic drill bit.

maybe you could upload a pic of your drill bit
Just I know that is modifiying the drill rake angle is just about important as going slow and well lubricated and keeping the Acrylic cool.


----------



## Hellbilly

Here's one of my acrylic bits for G1/4 holes. If I remember correctly it is ground to a 60 degree angle.


----------



## zoson

This is going to sound insane to some of you... But you can drill good holes in acrylic with a regular bit in reverse. Back the acrylic with some wood to prevent flexing, and go slow. If you have lubricant, that will help a lot.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> I'm one of those old skoolers who would rather have something come out a 7 or 8 out of 10 and be done 100% by myself, as opposed to farming even part of it out, even if it is a surefire 10 of 10.
> 
> I don't learn, or gain any experience, when someone else does the work or uses tools I don't have or have access to.
> 
> When it comes to boring deep passages . . . . in acrylic . . .
> 
> The trick I have found, besides the experience of feeling when the bit is near to galling and pulling out in time, is to have a spray bottle of lubricant water to cool the bit frequently and lubricate the bore.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work !
> I couldn't find a good pic of a high speed twist drill modified to drill acrylic this was the best one I could find you must have either modified yours or have a speciality acrylic drill bit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe you could upload a pic of your drill bit
> Just I know that is modifiying the drill rake angle is just about important as going slow and well lubricated and keeping the Acrylic cool.
Click to expand...

To reliably get good holes in acrylic, and plastics in general, I have a set of specialized bits that by design, don't have the tendency to crack out the back as they come thru the hole.

The trade off, is that they also don't "pull themselves" into the hole as you drill, so they create higher frictional temps and need more force pushing them forward.

For blind holes, that do not need to go all the way thru the material, regular TiN coated drill bits for hard metals work fine.

I use that type of bit for holes that will be tapped for G1/4 and need a shallow bottom, or tapped for 6-32 or M4 for securing screws.

For very deep holes, I usually have to finish the deeper portion with an extra long length drill bit, these are usually available in High Speed Steel, (HSS) and as long as all you use them for is acrylic, they last pretty long, but because the flutes are only present for the first few inches, you have to peck drill with them to keep the flutes chip free and prevent galling.

When I made the pump module base, I used my drill press to drill the holes that were to be tapped to a depth of about 1/4" from the bottom of the block thickness.

Then I clamped the block to the drill press table, and using the same drill size as for the tapped holes, (11.4mm iirc) drilled in about an inch, then changed to a slightly smaller bit, (7/16") and continue the bore. As I get close to where the lateral bores meet the blind holes tapped for fittings, I change back to the 7/16" plastics bit for a smooth pass into the blind hole and then onto the other side, where I change back to the regular 7/16 bit. If the bore is deeper than the reach of the TiN coated bit, I switch to the HSS extended length 7/16 bit, and complete the bore with lots of water and air blasts to keep it as clear of chips as possible . . so they don't fuse and cause galling.

Drilling laterally with an extended bit into a blind hole just takes patience, and skill gained from experience, controlling the drill's speed and keeping it from breaking thru too quickly are the biggest challenges.

I use my 1/2", corded, variable speed Dewalt drill, to do my lateral bores.

Maintaining your drill trajectory on axis, up down / side to side just comes with experience.

These are "plastics" drills, with a regular bit on the far left:


----------



## Lou HM

I recently put together my first true custom water cooler PC.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou HM*
> 
> I recently put together my first true custom water cooler PC.


looks good!its also good to see you bending pipes instead of cheating and just using fittings to create the bends! Well done!!


----------



## aaronstransam

Just test fit the new blank lower door for my 900d.
Now just a few adjustments and Figure out what vent design to cut in it.
I'm thinking about four, 4 1/2" holes that line up the the fans, or......any ideas?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lou HM*
> 
> I recently put together my first true custom water cooler PC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks good!its also good to see you bending pipes instead of cheating and just using fittings to create the bends! Well done!!
Click to expand...

Cheating? Each to their own, but using elbow fittings is just as fantastic as hand bends. The way the tubing turns doesn't make the build, its the way the builders make it turn that's special.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just test fit the new blank lower door for my 900d.
> Now just a few adjustments and Figure out what vent design to cut in it.
> I'm thinking about four, 4 1/2" holes that line up the the fans, or......any ideas?


I say flames!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Cheating? Each to their own, but using elbow fittings is just as fantastic as hand bends. The way the tubing turns doesn't make the build, its the way the builders make it turn that's special.


That's a pretty epic statement. + Rep

TCO


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Cheating? Each to their own, but using elbow fittings is just as fantastic as hand bends. The way the tubing turns doesn't make the build, its the way the builders make it turn that's special.
> I say flames!


I was expecting a bite. But not by you.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Cheating? Each to their own, but using elbow fittings is just as fantastic as hand bends. The way the tubing turns doesn't make the build, its the way the builders make it turn that's special.
> I say flames!
> 
> 
> 
> I was expecting a bite. But not by you.
Click to expand...

I'm not biting, just barking.


----------



## LiquidHaus

bends over fittings any day. might take the same amount of skill. almost the same amount of measure twice cut once, but bending also saves a ton of money


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my acrylic bits for G1/4 holes. If I remember correctly it is ground to a 60 degree angle.


15/32??? isn't that a little big?


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> 15/32??? isn't that a little big?


Nope. 11.8mm or 15/32. I think there's 4 thousandths of an inch difference.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> Nope. 11.8mm or 15/32. I think there's 4 thousandths of an inch difference.


Thanks I'll give it a try next time. I tried looking for 11.8 plastic bit but no luck finding one. The 11.8 bit I got from McMaster-car did ok just had to worry the entire time I was drilling.


----------



## taowulf

My new pump came. Also picked up a couple EK Thermosphere GPU blocks and new tubing. Didn't want to lay put the money for rigid tubing and new fittings yet though, so ye olde flexible tubing it is. One of the better looking runs I've done though.










Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To reliably get good holes in acrylic, and plastics in general, I have a set of specialized bits that by design, don't have the tendency to crack out the back as they come thru the hole.
> 
> The trade off, is that they also don't "pull themselves" into the hole as you drill, so they create higher frictional temps and need more force pushing them forward.
> 
> For blind holes, that do not need to go all the way thru the material, regular TiN coated drill bits for hard metals work fine.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I use that type of bit for holes that will be tapped for G1/4 and need a shallow bottom, or tapped for 6-32 or M4 for securing screws.
> 
> For very deep holes, I usually have to finish the deeper portion with an extra long length drill bit, these are usually available in High Speed Steel, (HSS) and as long as all you use them for is acrylic, they last pretty long, but because the flutes are only present for the first few inches, you have to peck drill with them to keep the flutes chip free and prevent galling.
> 
> When I made the pump module base, I used my drill press to drill the holes that were to be tapped to a depth of about 1/4" from the bottom of the block thickness.
> 
> Then I clamped the block to the drill press table, and using the same drill size as for the tapped holes, (11.4mm iirc) drilled in about an inch, then changed to a slightly smaller bit, (7/16") and continue the bore. As I get close to where the lateral bores meet the blind holes tapped for fittings, I change back to the 7/16" plastics bit for a smooth pass into the blind hole and then onto the other side, where I change back to the regular 7/16 bit. If the bore is deeper than the reach of the TiN coated bit, I switch to the HSS extended length 7/16 bit, and complete the bore with lots of water and air blasts to keep it as clear of chips as possible . . so they don't fuse and cause galling.
> 
> Drilling laterally with an extended bit into a blind hole just takes patience, and skill gained from experience, controlling the drill's speed and keeping it from breaking thru too quickly are the biggest challenges.
> 
> I use my 1/2", corded, variable speed Dewalt drill, to do my lateral bores.
> 
> Maintaining your drill trajectory on axis, up down / side to side just comes with experience.
> 
> These are "plastics" drills, with a regular bit on the far left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Great info I have drilled acrylic a few times I am cheap and normally use a std high speed drill bit and grind off the rake angle to 0°

But you have given me an idea on some custom GPU water link bridge, I will look forward to drilling this hole nice and deep so I can pump my fluid though this block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I just use HSS bits,45 helix.....

Carbide bits on my mill,same 45 helix.

I'm not above ghetto drilling with endmills in my bench pillar drill either.....


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> bends over fittings any day. might take the same amount of skill. almost the same amount of measure twice cut once, but bending also saves a ton of money


+1.
i feel the same about it, using elbow fittings is sorta lazy and get it done quickly way of approaching thing in my eyes. But i rather diy my pc than buy ready product that looks better.
Both methods work and it is a matter of personal taste but bending is definitely more difficult and requires some experience and precision.


----------



## Lou HM

I recently put together my first custom water cooler PC





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> looks good!its also good to see you bending pipes instead of cheating and just using fittings to create the bends! Well done!!


Thanks M8, not bad for a rookie, right?...









@B NEGATIVE can I be added to the club ?









Remember I started like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou HM*
> 
> I recently put together my first custom water cooler PC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_1030.JPG 2717k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_1031.JPG 1892k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks M8, not bad for a rookie, right?...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @B NEGATIVE can I be added to the club ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I started like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sure,unspoiler your own pics and use an image hosting service then I can add you in.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, all this talk of drilling acrylic has me rethinking routing acrylic sheet. Does anyone know of a bit that has a long shank of about 1' or so? My MB tray will only have one tube run through it to allow coolant to travel from the top to the bottom behind the MB. If I can get a bit that is longer than 1' that would be better since I'll need a bit of travel to get through the center and then come at it from the other side to punch through and complete the connection. Google wasn't helpful tonite. If I can, I plan to countersink for plugs to flush them with each end.

I could still route for 2 piece, but then I have to cut Oring channels and drill and tap cover screws. That's a bit more work than what's necessary and if I can avoid it, I'd like to. Tray will also be routed to accept short runs of LED strips and pilot holes for hidden cabling. I want to start working on this as soon as possible. Still need to get some Acrylic sheet but I can't really do that without hammering out a plan of action.









~Ceadder


----------



## jarble

Almost finished. If you look very closely the run from the pump to the rad is cracked (I could not see it until I put the pastel in). I have bent a new section and will get some real pics after I get it all setup. First time bending tubing and first time back in a case in a long time. I know the fans dont match but until I sleeve cables color matching fans is not a priority


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> bends over fittings any day. might take the same amount of skill. almost the same amount of measure twice cut once, but bending also saves a ton of money


That is about the only reason I bend. I don't like spending money when I can save some by doing a bit of bending.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> looks good!its also good to see you bending pipes instead of cheating and just using fittings to create the bends! Well done!!


+1

I much prefer bends over fittings. It is more difficult than using fittings in my experience. My skill at tube bending is minimal. This is why my build has more fittings that I would like.

Fittings definitely make a build easier, but can make it look clunky. Though there are builds here at OCN using fittings rather than bending tube that looked fantastic.

I like cable combs, others do not. Overall, to each their own. Eye of the beholder and all that. We all have our preferences.


----------



## Lou HM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> +1
> 
> I much prefer bends over fittings. It is more difficult than using fittings in my experience. My skill at tube bending is minimal. This is why my build has more fittings that I would like.
> 
> Fittings definitely make a build easier, but can make it look clunky. Though there are builds here at OCN using fittings rather than bending tube that looked fantastic.
> 
> I like cable combs, others do not. Overall, to each their own. Eye of the beholder and all that. We all have our preferences.


+1

I did bents because of the lack of experiance with custom water cooling and lack of reasearch for fittings however at the end I had seen builds with and without fittings and both can look really good. Btw it took me a whole afternoon to put together all this bents and Parts.

But definitely worth it... is like an everlasting rewarding feeling every time you use your system plus the super quiet and not worry about heat limiting your system.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I did bends myself just due to not wanting to shell out for more fittings, in some cases fittings do look good when done right. But I do prefer bends due to the time and energy it takes to get it right. Still debating on doing Hardline again in the M8, but I'll need to offload all my 1/2" primochill Ghost Fittings to bump up to 16mm since the 1/2" did look too small. But it got me the experience of knowing how to bend, which isn't that difficult if you take your time


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I did bends myself just due to not wanting to shell out for more fittings, in some cases fittings do look good when done right. But I do prefer bends due to the time and energy it takes to get it right. Still debating on doing Hardline again in the M8, but I'll need to offload all my 1/2" primochill Ghost Fittings to bump up to 16mm since the 1/2" did look too small. But it got me the experience of knowing how to bend, which isn't that difficult if you take your time


I think most people believe that it's dependent on the build as to which you do. I feel the same.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radmanhs

anyone know where I can get bitspower dual rotary ext fittings in the US? Performance PC's is out of stock and I heard to never use FrozenCPU after some incident that happened a while ago


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> anyone know where I can get bitspower dual rotary ext fittings in the US? Performance PC's is out of stock and I heard to never use FrozenCPU after some incident that happened a while ago


I go to ppcs first if I can but frozen is fine now. Just got some some fittings and some coolant from them 2 weeks ago


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> anyone know where I can get bitspower dual rotary ext fittings in the US? Performance PC's is out of stock and I heard to never use FrozenCPU after some incident that happened a while ago


You can check on amazon, I recently purchased some bitspower fittings from there, and if you have prime you get free 2 day shipping


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> anyone know where I can get bitspower dual rotary ext fittings in the US? Performance PC's is out of stock and I heard to never use FrozenCPU after some incident that happened a while ago


Just E-mail PPCS. They will order the parts you need if it's out of stock.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> You can check on amazon, I recently purchased some bitspower fittings from there, and if you have prime you get free 2 day shipping


Hmmm, how did the prices compare to PPCS?


----------



## Radmanhs

too bad amazon doesn't have any of the parts i need in white


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> You can check on amazon, I recently purchased some bitspower fittings from there, and if you have prime you get free 2 day shipping


Not sure about you, but most fittings on amazon are extremely overpriced.

TCO


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> You can check on amazon, I recently purchased some bitspower fittings from there, and if you have prime you get free 2 day shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure about you, but most fittings on amazon are extremely overpriced.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

They often are.

I've seen a lot of bizarre pricing on Amazon as well, way out of the ballpark.

Such as this Bitspower pass-thru fitting, for only $64.60:
https://www.amazon.ca/Bitspower-CaseTop-Water-Fill-Matte-Black/dp/B004ULZ1QI/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475635478&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=bitspower+watercooling+fittings

Shipping not included of course, lol.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Waited so long to finally use this new mousepad and new mouse. Need to replace the keyboard though. Loop is all done. This loop is by far my most favorite. Won't be changing for a good while. Still deciding if it's worth it to open two new bottles of Pastel Ice White and red to top of the reservoirs.


Just top off with distilled water. No issue with that small of an amount.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou HM*
> 
> I recently put together my first true custom water cooler PC.


What case is that??


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> What case is that??


Phanteks Enthoo Primo


----------



## Radnad

So @seross69 and I have been discussing the SPC-60 pump in another thread. We know it's not a Laing pump by this review:

http://thermalbench.com/2016/06/30/ek-xtop-spc-60-inc-pump/

And I have seen it branded as an OEM Syscooling pump on aliexpress, but does anyone know who the actual manufacturer is?


----------



## Ceadderman

So, anyone know where I can lay my hands on long travel acrylic bits? I asked last night but maybe my question got lost in the shuffle.









~Ceadder


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So, anyone know where I can lay my hands on long travel acrylic bits? I asked last night but maybe my question got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I had the same problem, I broke out the welder and joined a drill to a rod before truing it up in a lathe, grind up a 0° rake angle tested and worked perfect.
Just got to see now if I got the skill to drill 200mm deep into some acrylic.


But I guess you got to have a welder, lathe and grinder at your disposal.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So, anyone know where I can lay my hands on long travel acrylic bits? I asked last night but maybe my question got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same problem, I broke out the welder and joined a drill to a rod before truing it up in a lathe, grind up a 0° rake angle tested and worked perfect.
> Just got to see now if I got the skill to drill 200mm deep into some acrylic.
> 
> 
> But I guess you got to have a welder, lathe and grinder at your disposal.
Click to expand...

Yup. None of those I have at this time.

I can get long travel bits for wood and take them to a shop to have ground if worse comes to worse. But there aren't any 15/32s of any significant length that would work for the application I am planning. I figured some of the shop members would know where to go to get something. Although I think I will check McMaster Carr to see if they have em. Cause Home Depot sure doesn't.









~Ceadder


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup. None of those I have at this time.
> 
> I can get long travel bits for wood and take them to a shop to have ground if worse comes to worse. But there aren't any 15/32s of any significant length that would work for the application I am planning. I figured some of the shop members would know where to go to get something. Although I think I will check McMaster Carr to see if they have em. Cause Home Depot sure doesn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


just grind these up not bad price just hard to obtain here in NZ probably about $50usd each here.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-USA-Long-Drill/dp/B0195V5ICO/ref=lp_256270011_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1475658221&sr=1-3

sorry just read the 15/32 we use metric here unlike you imperial Americans

https://www.amazon.com/Extra-Long-Drill-Straight-Shank/dp/B00B89OIGY/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1475658406&sr=1-2&keywords=15%2F32


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So, anyone know where I can lay my hands on long travel acrylic bits? I asked last night but maybe my question got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same problem, I broke out the welder and joined a drill to a rod before truing it up in a lathe, grind up a 0° rake angle tested and worked perfect.
> Just got to see now if I got the skill to drill 200mm deep into some acrylic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I guess you got to have a welder, lathe and grinder at your disposal.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup. None of those I have at this time.
> 
> I can get long travel bits for wood and take them to a shop to have ground if worse comes to worse. But there aren't any 15/32s of any significant length that would work for the application I am planning. I figured some of the shop members would know where to go to get something. Although I think I will check McMaster Carr to see if they have em. Cause Home Depot sure doesn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

McMaster has 7/16" in 12" and 18" lengths. . .

Not cheap, at about $50, but probably the best option you'll find except maybe cheap Chinese.

I'd suggest using the proper metric tap drill size for G1/4 for the first half inch or so of the bore, then go to the 7/16" which is slightly smaller and serves to protect the area to be threaded from abuse during the boring process.

Do not tap the threads at the end(s) of a long bore until the bore is complete.

Do tap the threads of blind holes that the long bore connects before doing the long bore


----------



## fisher6

Anybody has any links to build logs with hardline tubing with only fittings? Looking to do a no bends build but would like some inspiration.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anybody has any links to build logs with hardline tubing with only fittings? Looking to do a no bends build but would like some inspiration.


Click on a photo in the gallery (on the right side, near the top of the page) and then click "gallery view" above the photo, and get to scrollin!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## rediornot

love the case


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anybody has any links to build logs with hardline tubing with only fittings? Looking to do a no bends build but would like some inspiration.


Best option for help would be a case that you would like to use and what rads. If you have a pump setup that you like specific, that would be fantastic, as I find the pump should be the starting point in a loop.

TCO


----------



## Lou HM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rediornot*
> 
> love the case


What case are you referring to ?

?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> +1
> 
> I much prefer bends over fittings. It is more difficult than using fittings in my experience. My skill at tube bending is minimal. This is why my build has more fittings that I would like.
> 
> Fittings definitely make a build easier, but can make it look clunky. Though there are builds here at OCN using fittings rather than bending tube that looked fantastic.
> 
> I like cable combs, others do not. Overall, to each their own. Eye of the beholder and all that. We all have our preferences.


I just do t get why this is brought up all the time. Usually comes from people whom haven't done both. I found bending a lot easier than having to make sure everything was squared and perfectly straight. Really just comes down to what looks good. Some builds bends look better other builds fittings looks better. But saying lazy is kind of a troll thing to say


----------



## Bouf0010

I haven't posted here in a REALLY long time (4 years). Currently working on a rebuild in a thermaltake x9 - I don't feel like doing a build thread but I'll post pics once in a while as it goes on


































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## rediornot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou HM*
> 
> What case are you referring to ?
> 
> ?


there was a case further up that looked like an old time radio like we had when I was a kid right next to the steel television set that was 12 inch square.


----------



## rediornot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> McMaster has 7/16" in 12" and 18" lengths. . .
> 
> Not cheap, at about $50, but probably the best option you'll find except maybe cheap Chinese.
> 
> I'd suggest using the proper metric tap drill size for G1/4 for the first half inch or so of the bore, then go to the 7/16" which is slightly smaller and serves to protect the area to be threaded from abuse during the boring process.
> 
> Do not tap the threads at the end(s) of a long bore until the bore is complete.
> 
> Do tap the threads of blind holes that the long bore connects before doing the long bore


go to the hardware store or amazon and ask for a drill bit extension, it holds different size drill bits in place with an allen screw and you can buy them in multiple lengths.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So, anyone know where I can lay my hands on long travel acrylic bits? I asked last night but maybe my question got lost in the shuffle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same problem, I broke out the welder and joined a drill to a rod before truing it up in a lathe, grind up a 0° rake angle tested and worked perfect.
> Just got to see now if I got the skill to drill 200mm deep into some acrylic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I guess you got to have a welder, lathe and grinder at your disposal.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup. None of those I have at this time.
> 
> I can get long travel bits for wood and take them to a shop to have ground if worse comes to worse. But there aren't any 15/32s of any significant length that would work for the application I am planning. I figured some of the shop members would know where to go to get something. Although I think I will check McMaster Carr to see if they have em. Cause Home Depot sure doesn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> McMaster has 7/16" in 12" and 18" lengths. . .
> 
> Not cheap, at about $50, but probably the best option you'll find except maybe cheap Chinese.
> 
> I'd suggest using the proper metric tap drill size for G1/4 for the first half inch or so of the bore, then go to the 7/16" which is slightly smaller and serves to protect the area to be threaded from abuse during the boring process.
> 
> Do not tap the threads at the end(s) of a long bore until the bore is complete.
> 
> Do tap the threads of blind holes that the long bore connects before doing the long bore
Click to expand...

So bore the face of the Plate and tap it, prior to boring the length. Got it.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rediornot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> McMaster has 7/16" in 12" and 18" lengths. . .
> 
> Not cheap, at about $50, but probably the best option you'll find except maybe cheap Chinese.
> 
> I'd suggest using the proper metric tap drill size for G1/4 for the first half inch or so of the bore, then go to the 7/16" which is slightly smaller and serves to protect the area to be threaded from abuse during the boring process.
> 
> Do not tap the threads at the end(s) of a long bore until the bore is complete.
> 
> Do tap the threads of blind holes that the long bore connects before doing the long bore
> 
> 
> 
> go to the hardware store or amazon and ask for a drill bit extension, it holds different size drill bits in place with an allen screw and you can buy them in multiple lengths.
Click to expand...

Don't know if maybe you missed the conversation that brought up long drill bits, but extensions are not a viable solution, as the diameter where the allen screws are that holds the bit, is larger in diameter than the bit.

Darlene


----------



## ali13245

What do you guys think? Just finished. Currently leak testing/bleeding the loop. I was thinking of throwing in some black and yellow coolant, or I might change to a black/white/gray theme. Any ideas?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I just do t get why this is brought up all the time. Usually comes from people whom haven't done both. I found bending a lot easier than having to make sure everything was squared and perfectly straight. Really just comes down to what looks good. Some builds bends look better other builds fittings looks better. But saying lazy is kind of a troll thing to say


I said using fittings was lazy? Where did I say that? Someone else said using fittings was cheating, not me. I simply agree that I like the looks of bent tube. I also said to each their own, it's an eye of the beholder thing, and we all have our own preferences.

Never did I say it was lazy, nor would I! I also said there are some builds utilizing fittings that look great, but sometimes too many fittings can make a build look clunky, because sometimes to me it does. I have not called anyone or their build out for it, because it isn't my place. I have my own shortcomings and overall I enjoy looking at the builds here.

For me, using more fittings than I wanted to use made building easier, because it did. Bending acrylic tube is not easy for me. I have fun messing with it, but in order to actually finish something, I have to rely on fittings to get me there and fittings are easier for me to manipulate.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> What do you guys think? Just finished. Currently leak testing/bleeding the loop. I was thinking of throwing in some black and yellow coolant, or I might change to a black/white/gray theme. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks great to me. The right amount of color accenting and very clean. You should color things the way it will please you, but black and yellow would look good in my opinion.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> I haven't posted here in a REALLY long time (4 years). Currently working on a rebuild in a thermaltake x9 - I don't feel like doing a build thread but I'll post pics once in a while as it goes on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Love the look in the last picture! Are those straws you used to mock up tube runs in pic 3?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> I haven't posted here in a REALLY long time (4 years). Currently working on a rebuild in a thermaltake x9 - I don't feel like doing a build thread but I'll post pics once in a while as it goes on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice bends.

I got to remember to do that before doing bends. Are those straws or something else?


----------



## lexer

I need to clean up the cables in general but i don't have to much space







, next step if i can get the money is hard line


----------



## Bouf0010

[/quote]

Love the look in the last picture! Are those straws you used to mock up tube runs in pic 3?[/quote]

[/quote]

Nice bends.

I got to remember to do that before doing bends. Are those straws or something else?[/quote]

Thanks!

Yep those are paper straws







Really helps visualize and it's easy to change it around - I think I stared at my motherboard for 2 hours before I decided to do that.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Bouf0010

I'm on tapatalk - completely useless - sorry about the double and last post lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Radmanhs

what grit sandpaper would you use for acrylic tubing, to do something like true an end?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> what grit sandpaper would you use for acrylic tubing, to do something like true an end?


I use a medium course to flush and true crooked cut ends, but a fine course to chamfer them.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Just got this stuff in the mail today, minus the radiator.



Really excited to do something new and different soon


----------



## Noobinitas

This is my first build that I'm going to be fully watercooling and this is the first pc I've built in years, I got most of the stuff already picked out http://pcpartpicker.com/list/7kqKqk What I'm having trouble with is finding a D5 pump that is a variable speed pump(all the ones I've found don't specify if they are or aren't.) and not sure what fittings to get or how many I'll need, if anyone could help me get the rest of this together and any input on something I could switch up please any help would be greatly appreciated, I really want this build to last me a long time which is why I'm going a little overkill on it, but I want to be happy in the end and this is what I got so far lol. And not sure of what fluid to use yet.


----------



## rediornot

sorry missed that. then amazon and order set or just the size you need. I did get a set of 3 for 5.00 at a tool sale. off the truck at convention center, but that is not an everyday thing you can count on


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rediornot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> McMaster has 7/16" in 12" and 18" lengths. . .
> 
> Not cheap, at about $50, but probably the best option you'll find except maybe cheap Chinese.
> 
> I'd suggest using the proper metric tap drill size for G1/4 for the first half inch or so of the bore, then go to the 7/16" which is slightly smaller and serves to protect the area to be threaded from abuse during the boring process.
> 
> Do not tap the threads at the end(s) of a long bore until the bore is complete.
> 
> Do tap the threads of blind holes that the long bore connects before doing the long bore
> 
> 
> 
> go to the hardware store or amazon and ask for a drill bit extension, it holds different size drill bits in place with an allen screw and you can buy them in multiple lengths.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't know if maybe you missed the conversation that brought up long drill bits, but extensions are not a viable solution, as the diameter where the allen screws are that holds the bit, is larger in diameter than the bit.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Agreed. I never considered them viable options when it comes to milling tube runs. I know that there are long travel bits and did check out McMaster & Carr's website. 12" seems to be the way to go. But I may pick up both so that I can ream through any rough leftovers that may not be fully cleared and to make sure the center point is clear from milling the 12" lengths. So I'm figuring on about $120 worth of bits, before the cost of plugs and tap. At least I already have a 6-32 tap, so I can drill out the MB standoff points and I have some Dremel bits for I/O slots. Still need to pick up a Dremel bit for clearancing the width of the LED strips that will be on the face of the tray though. At least the project is advancing. Little by little but it's advancing.









~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Agreed. I never considered them viable options when it comes to milling tube runs. I know that there are long travel bits and did check out McMaster & Carr's website. 12" seems to be the way to go. But I may pick up both so that I can ream through any rough leftovers that may not be fully cleared and to make sure the center point is clear from milling the 12" lengths. So I'm figuring on about $120 worth of bits, before the cost of plugs and tap. At least I already have a 6-32 tap, so I can drill out the MB standoff points and I have some Dremel bits for I/O slots. Still need to pick up a Dremel bit for clearancing the width of the LED strips that will be on the face of the tray though. At least the project is advancing. Little by little but it's advancing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


@Ceadder you ever going to post some pics of whatever is your working on? I'm very curious


----------



## Radmanhs

any idea why it's extremely hard to squeeze this hard tubing into these fittings? I reamed the tube, but they just wont squeeze into the fittings, no matter how hard I press...


----------



## Ceadderman

^Are you dipping the ends of your tubing in distilled to lubricate the orings? Might soak the fittings in a distilled bath for a minute or so too. Cause iirc those BP fittings are the correct size, being Metric.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Agreed. I never considered them viable options when it comes to milling tube runs. I know that there are long travel bits and did check out McMaster & Carr's website. 12" seems to be the way to go. But I may pick up both so that I can ream through any rough leftovers that may not be fully cleared and to make sure the center point is clear from milling the 12" lengths. So I'm figuring on about $120 worth of bits, before the cost of plugs and tap. At least I already have a 6-32 tap, so I can drill out the MB standoff points and I have some Dremel bits for I/O slots. Still need to pick up a Dremel bit for clearancing the width of the LED strips that will be on the face of the tray though. At least the project is advancing. Little by little but it's advancing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Ceadder you ever going to post some pics of whatever is your working on? I'm very curious
Click to expand...

I'm modding my 932 and giving it an updated look as well as going Overkill with the cooling system.



Here is what I started with waaaaaaay back in 2011-2012. HDD Rack and 5.25 rack are retired. You will see the other metal that is now gone up in the top of the case as well as the MB tray. Back is being flipped 180* rotation. Considering flipping the front too.









I have a build log. But I've been pretty busy with Family issues and client builds for the last few months. Soon as I am able I plan to update the log. I thought I linked it directly in my signature but it's actually a link to one of my pic albums. So I will have to fix that so people can see what I am up to.

In the meantime, I'm slowly cobbling together my parts while the 932 is dismantled and am working out the layout of how my system will look. Because I got pic happy with the goodies I dropped a spoiler tag on it all. Click at your own risk.










Spoiler: Warning: Bandwidth killer!



6870s are going under water Since I don't want Nickel and to have to spend more on blocks for future upgrades...


Picked up a sponsor for this build and got some much needed fabricating goodies and cable combs


To go with these Cable Combs


Dremeled the Rear PSU support and filed the mounting area flat to allow the PSU a clean mounting area.

As you can see, when the MB tray is in place, the PSU is going to be *DANGER CLOSE* to the Tray. I may have to fit the tray to the PSU. So until that is worked out I cannot put the exterior together. I will be roughing up the PC of the case if I don't use PlastiDip. Still up in the air but it's gonna get there. Still have to Dremel the doors too.









Picked up my 120GB 750 EVO for the OS. Now my board will get to work out it's 6GB limit.









Still have the Steam drive to pick up.









This is when I found out that I had the wrong dual parallel bridge. I need a triple. Not a double. Sold the double and am contemplating tubing run instead.









Also pictured and not... 30 Monsoon Economy v1s that are brand new. Now we have v2s out so I've picked my design and the v1s have to be sold to offset the cost of the new fittings.







Maybe Geno will sponsor me?









My design for the v2s. Taking Gene's advice and three insignia's with the stripes will surround the collars. They will be Black Nickel.


A short commercial brake to bring you a pic from our Sponsor.









Got a Modder's Rule and a 120 grill that will not be seeing duty on this build. Likely a future build.

Moar EK goodnezz...

Replacing the DDC kit I was running because iBruce donated to the cause.










Picked up the RAM block a few months back. Debating picking up a pair of 8GB Vengeance sticks in 2000 and swapping the Dominator sinks to them, since I cannot get Dom GTs in 2000 and 8GB. So since that will void the ole warranty on the sticks those are to be painted. Only wish EK made 3 channel width single blocks. Cause this thing is a MONSTER on 2 sticks.

Picked up some necessary tooling for cutting hardline.


Only it won't cut 5/8" tubing without rotating the stock.

So this tool is getting modded at the motor bumps with a flatbar file. I will take approximately 1/8"-1/4" of material off. If I were going to cut only 12mm, it would work like the business. 5/8" is simply too large.



So as you can see, things *are* progressing slowly but this is a labor of love and not to be rushed.









~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

@Ceadderman I'm glad I asked







Awesome things going on there keep us posted man.


----------



## Deedaz

That's gonna look sweet Ceader, you should submit that for the contest at ppcs, maybe you can win a free set


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> That's gonna look sweet Ceader, you should submit that for the contest at ppcs, maybe you can win a free set


TY Deedz. I was considering it.









Edit: Took the plunge. Just posted it.









~Ceadder


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Best option for help would be a case that you would like to use and what rads. If you have a pump setup that you like specific, that would be fantastic, as I find the pump should be the starting point in a loop.
> 
> TCO


Using the Define S. I have a EK 360 rad on top and a thicker 240 Alphacool rad on the front. It is possible to switch the rads around. For the pump, I have the D5 combo with a 250mm res, The pump/res combo really can only go at the front like it was designed to in the Define S.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Best option for help would be a case that you would like to use and what rads. If you have a pump setup that you like specific, that would be fantastic, as I find the pump should be the starting point in a loop.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Using the Define S. I have a EK 360 rad on top and a thicker 240 Alphacool rad on the front. It is possible to switch the rads around. For the pump, I have the D5 combo with a 250mm res, The pump/res combo really can only go at the front like it was designed to in the Define S.
Click to expand...

Doesn't hurt to try. Bout the only thing you're out in attempting the swap is coolant.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> any idea why it's extremely hard to squeeze this hard tubing into these fittings? I reamed the tube, but they just wont squeeze into the fittings, no matter how hard I press...


I suppose "reamed" means chamfered? Like Ceadder said, lube or Water









So go to the store and get some fancy lube, or spit on it.
















TCO


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noobinitas*
> 
> This is my first build that I'm going to be fully watercooling and this is the first pc I've built in years, I got most of the stuff already picked out http://pcpartpicker.com/list/7kqKqk What I'm having trouble with is finding a D5 pump that is a variable speed pump(all the ones I've found don't specify if they are or aren't.) and not sure what fittings to get or how many I'll need, if anyone could help me get the rest of this together and any input on something I could switch up please any help would be greatly appreciated, I really want this build to last me a long time which is why I'm going a little overkill on it, but I want to be happy in the end and this is what I got so far lol. And not sure of what fluid to use yet.


These D5s are variable speed either by PWM control or setting the knob on the motor.

D5 PWM

D5 Variable Speed

Selection of D5 PWM - Also look for the "D5 Vario" versions at PPCS, these are speed control by knob. They carry XSPC, EK, Alphacool and I believe Aquacomputer.

EK PWM D5

There are some starting points. I included various sellers for fairness and competition.

As for fittings and tube, if you want to go rigid acrylic make sure you buy tube that matches fittings specs. For instance a tube or fitting measured in inches (then probably converted to the closest mm) may give you problems with compatibility. Flexible tube is more forgiving, but still, specs are important. It's best to match metric tube with metric measured fittings and inch with inch

A line of thought is, if you have a large area to build in, larger outside diameter tube looks better aesthetically, smaller area, smaller outer diameter. Ultimately, it's your choice. Build to suit your tastes.

I use a Lamptron CW611 controller for my pumps, fans and flow meter, but the Aquaero from Aquacomputer is a more comprehensive unit with amazing capability and expansion potential.

Some stuff to consider at least.


----------



## Questors

PPCS Closed due to Hurricane!

From their Facebook page: Due to Hurricane Matthew we will be closed and will open back up as soon as we possibly can. This means any orders places on or after 4pm Wednesday may be left in processing for a few days either due to loss of power at our building or flooding around the area.



PPCS Closed Due to Hurricane FB


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm modding my 932 and giving it an updated look as well as going Overkill with the cooling system.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I started with waaaaaaay back in 2011-2012. HDD Rack and 5.25 rack are retired. You will see the other metal that is now gone up in the top of the case as well as the MB tray. Back is being flipped 180* rotation. Considering flipping the front too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a build log. But I've been pretty busy with Family issues and client builds for the last few months. Soon as I am able I plan to update the log. I thought I linked it directly in my signature but it's actually a link to one of my pic albums. So I will have to fix that so people can see what I am up to.
> 
> In the meantime, I'm slowly cobbling together my parts while the 932 is dismantled and am working out the layout of how my system will look. Because I got pic happy with the goodies I dropped a spoiler tag on it all. Click at your own risk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Bandwidth killer!
> 
> 
> 
> 6870s are going under water Since I don't want Nickel and to have to spend more on blocks for future upgrades...
> 
> 
> Picked up a sponsor for this build and got some much needed fabricating goodies and cable combs
> 
> 
> To go with these Cable Combs
> 
> 
> Dremeled the Rear PSU support and filed the mounting area flat to allow the PSU a clean mounting area.
> 
> As you can see, when the MB tray is in place, the PSU is going to be *DANGER CLOSE* to the Tray. I may have to fit the tray to the PSU. So until that is worked out I cannot put the exterior together. I will be roughing up the PC of the case if I don't use PlastiDip. Still up in the air but it's gonna get there. Still have to Dremel the doors too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up my 120GB 750 EVO for the OS. Now my board will get to work out it's 6GB limit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have the Steam drive to pick up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when I found out that I had the wrong dual parallel bridge. I need a triple. Not a double. Sold the double and am contemplating tubing run instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also pictured and not... 30 Monsoon Economy v1s that are brand new. Now we have v2s out so I've picked my design and the v1s have to be sold to offset the cost of the new fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe Geno will sponsor me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My design for the v2s. Taking Gene's advice and three insignia's with the stripes will surround the collars. They will be Black Nickel.
> 
> 
> A short commercial brake to bring you a pic from our Sponsor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a Modder's Rule and a 120 grill that will not be seeing duty on this build. Likely a future build.
> 
> Moar EK goodnezz...
> 
> Replacing the DDC kit I was running because iBruce donated to the cause.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up the RAM block a few months back. Debating picking up a pair of 8GB Vengeance sticks in 2000 and swapping the Dominator sinks to them, since I cannot get Dom GTs in 2000 and 8GB. So since that will void the ole warranty on the sticks those are to be painted. Only wish EK made 3 channel width single blocks. Cause this thing is a MONSTER on 2 sticks.
> 
> Picked up some necessary tooling for cutting hardline.
> 
> 
> Only it won't cut 5/8" tubing without rotating the stock.
> 
> So this tool is getting modded at the motor bumps with a flatbar file. I will take approximately 1/8"-1/4" of material off. If I were going to cut only 12mm, it would work like the business. 5/8" is simply too large.
> 
> 
> 
> So as you can see, things *are* progressing slowly but this is a labor of love and not to be rushed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There should be an award for the longest-running CoolerMaster HAF 932 in existence, lol!









J.K., as I've mentioned before, imo, the HAF 932 was the best steel case I've owned.








I was thinking, perhaps you'll be painting the inside say, black? after finishing the modding.
Back in the day, lol, that was a popular thing to do with the original 932's.
I was lucky that mine was one of the black internal versions.

Some interesting mods you've got planned, such as the flipping of the front and back, watercooling, etc.
Looking forward to that!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I suppose "reamed" means chamfered? Like Ceadder said, lube or Water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So go to the store and get some fancy lube, or spit on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I just chamber it with my tool or you can use sand paper than get a bowl some distilled water and a few drops of dish soap. Just dip the tube in and boom slides right in.


----------



## Noobinitas

appreciate it , I'll have plenty of room, building in Case Labs SMA8, definitely going to try out rigid tubing, im going with the ek pump since i pretty much have everything else EK, lol


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> PPCS Closed due to Hurricane!


doesn't that figure? I spent the last several nights reconfiguring my loop on paper and putting together an order... was going to place it tonight... forgot to check the weather lol
edit: very cool that they are offering a 10% off promo code for it, I rescind my previous, entitled whining







(not that I ever held it against them, its a freaking hurricane...)


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noobinitas*
> 
> appreciate it , I'll have plenty of room, building in Case Labs SMA8, definitely going to try out rigid tubing, im going with the ek pump since i pretty much have everything else EK, lol


Watercool's HeatKiller line has some pretty awesome stuff too. I like EK products, but they are not the only game in town, as it were.






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> doesn't that figure? I spent the last several nights reconfiguring my loop on paper and putting together an order... was going to place it tonight... forgot to check the weather lol










I feel your pain. I just got some direction with re-routing a part of my loop I didn't like and wasn't very efficient. I was also going to place an order today. Dern weather! Ya just can't trust it these days!


----------



## Noobinitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Watercool's HeatKiller line has some pretty awesome stuff too. I like EK products, but they are not the only game in town, as it were.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel your pain. I just got some direction with re-routing a part of my loop I didn't like and wasn't very efficient. I was also going to place an order today. Dern weather! Ya just can't trust it these days!


those are nice too, i just originally went with them on a friends recommendation and just didnt want mix/match too many different brands.


----------



## rolldog

Well, after getting my rig built enough to leak test, now I'm strictly working on a few cosmetic things. Originally, I was going to use Mayhem's Pastel White in one loop and Mayhems Pastel Blue in the other loop, but when I initially filled my loops with distilled when I was ready to leak test, I really liked the look of having clear coolant and white lighting. It gave my rig such a clean look to it.

Since I already had the Pastel Coolants, I filled my loops to see how it would look, and then I spent the next 3 days trying to flush it all out.

Now I think I have a solution I'm happy with. I've decided to fill both of my loops with Mayhems Clear UV Blue coolant. For demonstration and to see where this is headed, I"ve added one UV strip to the underside of one of my GPU blocks so you can see the coolant in the other GPU block.

Now, I'm not planning to run the UV lights all the time, just sometimes. When the UV isn't on, it'll be white lights and clear coolant, but when I want a quick change, I can press a button, which turns off some of the white LEDs and turns on the UV LEDs. I can either control this with a button or through an Aquaero, I haven't decided yet. If I use the Aquaero, since I'm using Darkside CONNECT Dimmable LEDs, which are hooked to the Aquaero in some way, I'll be able to dim the white lights enough and increase the UV lights enough to get any kind of look I want. Plus, PrimoChill is laser cutting my hex rad grills today, but they aren't going to be used as hex rad grills. They're going to look just like their hex rad grills, but these will be longer and wider so they can be used as windows on the top of my case. I bought the 120mm extended top for my CaseLabs TH10A, and I'm going to cut out the two ventilated rectangles on the top, which allow air flow to the 2 x 480mm rads mounted up top. The 2 ventilated areas on top will be coming out and replaced with a top sheet of white acrylic, for the outline of the hex rad grills and a sheet of translucent blue acrylic for the hex design, which will give me the ventilation I need but will also look kinda cool once I add some edge lighting to these windows.


----------



## Kenjiwing

could use some advice guys and gals...

whats the best way to put two radiators together with fittings? One is vertical and one is horizontal and they are both locked in place via screws.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Pumps are in









Really Cheap too. 71$ Each, lowest I have ever purchased an 18w DDC.



TCO


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> could use some advice guys and gals...
> 
> whats the best way to put two radiators together with fittings? One is vertical and one is horizontal and they are both locked in place via screws.


Pic?

You could try rotary snakes or combining other rotary fittings to create a snake-like fitting.

Some ideas


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> PPCS Closed due to Hurricane!
> 
> From their Facebook page: Due to Hurricane Matthew we will be closed and will open back up as soon as we possibly can. This means any orders places on or after 4pm Wednesday may be left in processing for a few days either due to loss of power at our building or flooding around the area.
> 
> 
> 
> PPCS Closed Due to Hurricane FB


Yep, they be in Florida. Reason stuff don't take long to get to me.







(South east tip of Alabama)

So far I know we are going to get some rain off of Matthew, but none of what east side of Florida is getting.

Probably explains the nice wind we been getting of late.


----------



## Radmanhs

I used spit and water with a drop of soap, still was only able to get 1 out of 4 fitting/tube connections that I tried to work. Can I very lightly sand the outside edge that goes into the connector to reduce the radius until it slides in snugly?


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I used spit and water with a drop of soap, still was only able to get 1 out of 4 fitting/tube connections to work. Can I very lightly sand the outside edge that goes into the connector to reduce the radius until it slides in snugly?


What fittings/tubing are you using? Have you tried taking the fittings apart and sliding the cap and o-ring on the tube first, then place the tube in the fitting, then slide the o-ring and cap down?


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> any idea why it's extremely hard to squeeze this hard tubing into these fittings? I reamed the tube, but they just wont squeeze into the fittings, no matter how hard I press...


The links in this post


----------



## Ceadderman

@Radmanhs Measure the depth of the fitting if you don't already know it. Then wrap your tubes slightly over that length and give it a whirl. This way the visible tubing will not be scratched and lightly sand the exposed portion little by little until you get a tight fit but one that will work with those fittings. Don't overdo it cause it could be disaster when pressure builds in the loop.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I used spit and water with a drop of soap, still was only able to get 1 out of 4 fitting/tube connections to work. Can I very lightly sand the outside edge that goes into the connector to reduce the radius until it slides in snugly?
> 
> 
> 
> What fittings/tubing are you using? Have you tried taking the fittings apart and sliding the cap and o-ring on the tube first, then place the tube in the fitting, then slide the o-ring and cap down?
Click to expand...

You can't take apart those BP dual ring pushfits. Simply put you have to pre-lube the fittings in Distilled.









~Ceadder


----------



## aaronstransam

That's why I asked what fittings lol. Could try running the fitting under warm water. Could make the o-ring squish easier


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Radmanhs Measure the depth of the fitting if you don't already know it. Then wrap your tubes slightly over that length and give it a whirl. This way the visible tubing will not be scratched and lightly sand the exposed portion little by little until you get a tight fit but one that will work with those fittings. Don't overdo it cause it could be disaster when pressure builds in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I used spit and water with a drop of soap, still was only able to get 1 out of 4 fitting/tube connections to work. Can I very lightly sand the outside edge that goes into the connector to reduce the radius until it slides in snugly?
> 
> 
> 
> What fittings/tubing are you using? Have you tried taking the fittings apart and sliding the cap and o-ring on the tube first, then place the tube in the fitting, then slide the o-ring and cap down?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can't take apart those BP dual ring pushfits. Simply put you have to pre-lube the fittings in Distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

A dab of silicon grease around the rim and tip of the tube will work wonders. I also read a post, but haven't tried it, about using KY jelly the same way,


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yep, they be in Florida. Reason stuff don't take long to get to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (South east tip of Alabama)
> 
> So far I know we are going to get some rain off of Matthew, but none of what east side of Florida is getting.
> 
> Probably explains the nice wind we been getting of late.


Isn't Florida Hurricane country? Happens every year, no? Florida should be used to this kind of weather like Canadians are used to getting a foot of snow a day in winter.
We may close the schools but it doesn't stop us from working.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Isn't Florida Hurricane country? Happens every year, no? Florida should be used to this kind of weather like Canadians are used to getting a foot of snow a day in winter.
> We may close the schools but it doesn't stop us from working.


Except Canadians on the west coast, they panic at 2mm of snow (seriously, Vancouver Island a millimetre of snow will throw everything into chaos, schools close down for the day, shops close, people refuse to drive to work, etc)


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Except Canadians on the west coast, they panic at 2mm of snow (seriously, Vancouver Island a millimetre of snow will throw everything into chaos, schools close down for the day, shops close, people refuse to drive to work, etc)


Wouldn't know never been out west.


----------



## rediornot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> PPCS Closed due to Hurricane!
> 
> From their Facebook page: Due to Hurricane Matthew we will be closed and will open back up as soon as we possibly can. This means any orders places on or after 4pm Wednesday may be left in processing for a few days either due to loss of power at our building or flooding around the area.
> 
> 
> 
> PPCS Closed Due to Hurricane FB


then water cooled by God. lol total submersion.
I am in south Georgia and everyone comes here to get away from the storms in the gulf to south of us and the atlantic to the east of us, you should have seen the traffic on 84 east and 75 north here yesterday.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rediornot*
> 
> then water cooled by God. lol total submersion.












On a serious note: hope people there are ok.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I used spit and water with a drop of soap, still was only able to get 1 out of 4 fitting/tube connections that I tried to work. Can I very lightly sand the outside edge that goes into the connector to reduce the radius until it slides in snugly?


Have you chamfered the edges of the Tubing?

You should have been able to get this done already. So I feel as though something is awry on your end. Pictures of the tube and fittings?

TCO


----------



## ruffhi

There haven't been any significant hurricans in the US for ages. According to Insurance Info Institute, insurance losses over last 10 yrs ...

2006 - negligent
2007 - negligent
2008 - $15.2b (Ike)
2009 - negligent
2010 - negligent
2011 - $4.3b
2012 - $19.7b (Sandy)
2013 - negligent
2014 - negligent
2015 - negligent


----------



## DarthBaggins

You forgot about Katrina too (but that was pre 2006)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You forgot about Katrina too (but that was pre 2006)


Or Rita.

TCO


----------



## ruffhi

yeah ... that year is called 'KRW' ... for Katrina, Rita and Wilma. $160b of damages ... insurance losses would have been less.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2005_Atlantic_hurricane_season


----------



## krutoydiesel

Gents I need some help/advice.

I'm moving my build over to the enthoo evolv TG. Now this case is lovely, but I'm trying to work with my existing WC parts from my previous build. Therefore, I am stuck using my pump/res combo and am in a bind.

Should I mount this horizontally? What issues can I encounter? This will look more unique, but it won't hide the ugly phanteks hard drive cage slots on the right side.

Or should I mount it vertically? See pictures below.

Mind you the tube in the pictures is the 250(204mm) Tube, but I have the 150(104mm) tube as well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Gents I need some help/advice.
> 
> I'm moving my build over to the enthoo evolv TG. Now this case is lovely, but I'm trying to work with my existing WC parts from my previous build. Therefore, I am stuck using my pump/res combo and am in a bind.
> 
> Should I mount this horizontally? What issues can I encounter? This will look more unique, but it won't hide the ugly phanteks hard drive cage slots on the right side.
> 
> Or should I mount it vertically? See pictures below.
> 
> Mind you the tube in the pictures is the 250(204mm) Tube, but I have the 150(104mm) tube as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man, I think if I were going to mount it vertically, I wouldn't have the combo together. I would separate the res from the pump and figure something out that way. Vertically is the way I would prefer (And always have) as I think working with gravity just makes things easier in general.

TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Man, I think if I were going to mount it vertically, I wouldn't have the combo together. I would separate the res from the pump and figure something out that way. Vertically is the way I would prefer (And always have) as I think working with gravity just makes things easier in general.
> 
> TCO


Really trying to avoid making another purchase. Then again maybe I should figure out how much a pump top is how quick I can get that.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Really trying to avoid making another purchase. Then again maybe I should figure out how much a pump top is how quick I can get that.


Just do it the right way it will be better in the long run.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Really trying to avoid making another purchase. Then again maybe I should figure out how much a pump top is how quick I can get that.


Your vision is what matters. If that cost you 100$ but creates something that appeals to you, then by all means, take your time and buy it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> *Just do it the right way* it will be better in the long run.


That's pretty vague. Elaborate please.

TCO


----------



## Bogga

All those hurricanes over there... down under we've got all those poisonous animals... earthquakes in other parts of the world.

Sometimes Sweden doesn't feel all that bad... worst things we've got is ticks and sometimes windy weather that makes a couple of trees fall to the ground









On topic now... more parts for my build arrived today


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Isn't Florida Hurricane country? Happens every year, no? Florida should be used to this kind of weather like Canadians are used to getting a foot of snow a day in winter.
> We may close the schools but it doesn't stop us from working.


Yeah, I don't know why they are freaking out. Unless they really close to the coast which seems the case with majority of the big Florida cities.

Myself, I loving this wind and slight cool air coming off the edges of that Hurricane.







Since Fall taking its lovely time to cool off down here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You forgot about Katrina too (but that was pre 2006)


Now, that one was a nutty one for sure. Even us down here in Southeast tip of Alabama got rain off that one, plus the clouds extended all the way out to us. That was one crazy Hurricane.

Heck, one of the instructors at Kessler AFB showed us some videos from that. Darn water got all the way to the base and flooded it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah alot of people relocated to the Atlanta area after Katrina that year, I was working for Honda at that time.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Your vision is what matters. If that cost you 100$ but creates something that appeals to you, then by all means, take your time and buy it.
> That's pretty vague. Elaborate please.
> 
> TCO


Yeah, I might have to bite the bullet and pick up a pump top from EK. Too bad PPCs is down..

I know Frozen is up, do we have any other watercooling stores in the lower 48?


----------



## mizer357

Most importantly, hope everyone in the Southeast is safe and sound.

Here is another humble contribution to this thread. The intent was to build more of a test bench and noodling rig. I saw the Aquatube for the very first time recently in this thread and I knew I wanted to get it in there. Everything was pretty straighforward except for the mounting of the pump. I went through a few orientations, brackets and mounts, and ultimately found the Bitspower D5 Brackets align perfectly with the screw holes in the D Frame Mini.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> Most importantly, hope everyone in the Southeast is safe and sound.
> 
> Here is another humble contribution to this thread. The intent was to build more of a test bench and noodling rig. I saw the Aquatube for the very first time recently in this thread and I knew I wanted to get it in there. Everything was pretty straighforward except for the mounting of the pump. I went through a few orientations, brackets and mounts, and ultimately found the Bitspower D5 Brackets align perfectly with the screw holes in the D Frame Mini.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


DFM,whats not to like?

Still my favorite case ever.


----------



## chromeMKvii

Planning a little upgrade soon and I just need to get some clarification. Is the GTX 1080 STRIX waterblock from Bitspower compatible with the GTX 1070 Strix? I've heard the ones by EK are, but i wasn't sure about Bitspower.


----------



## Noobinitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chromeMKvii*
> 
> Planning a little upgrade soon and I just need to get some clarification. Is the GTX 1080 STRIX waterblock from Bitspower compatible with the GTX 1070 Strix? I've heard the ones by EK are, but i wasn't sure about Bitspower.


i would think so I know the Ek block is compatible with both the1080 and 1070 Strix.


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still my favorite case ever.


No argument here, B!


----------



## Ceadderman

What's the big deal with the AquaTube? Seems like *EVERYONE* wants one.









It's aluminium right? Yeah I get that it's anodized but ... it's aluminium.









~Ceadder


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What's the big deal with the AquaTube? Seems like *EVERYONE* wants one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's aluminium right? Yeah I get that it's anodized but ... it's aluminium.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I just like that they look like a piston, or something pulled from an engine... I'm partial to components that look like machinery.

I think they used to be all metal before (nickel-plated brass?) -- the white and black models that are currently available are made of Delrin... similar to Acetal in material and weight.


----------



## Shoggy

The aquatubes are/were available in different styles and materials. Some limited variants like the copper version or Plexiglas version are pretty rare. The aluminum variants are not available anymore but I am sure some people would still kill for some specific colors that were available


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> I just like that they look like a piston, or something pulled from an engine... I'm partial to components that look like machinery.
> 
> I think they used to be all metal before (nickel-plated brass?) -- the white and black models that are currently available are made of Delrin... similar to Acetal in material and weight.


I have to say. I really am digging the look of that AquaTube. Just for that fact it looks like machinery.

Think working around aircraft a few years made me like the industrial style more. Whole reason down the road I want to give metal tubing a go for a water cool build.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Isn't Florida Hurricane country? Happens every year, no? Florida should be used to this kind of weather like Canadians are used to getting a foot of snow a day in winter.
> We may close the schools but it doesn't stop us from working.


True, Florida usually gets hit a lot, but I ran across an article a while back that said Florida had not been actually hit by a hurricane in around 10 years. I was teasing my friend Larry that lives in Florida about it a few weeks back.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquatubes are/were available in different styles and materials. Some limited variants like the copper version or Plexiglas version are pretty rare. The aluminum variants are not available anymore but I am sure some people would still kill for some specific colors that were available


Thank you for the clarification. I'm glad to see they are not all anodized aluminum.









~Ceadder


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I know Frozen is up, do we have any other watercooling stores in the lower 48?


ModMyMods - Alphacool, HeatKiller, Sleeve, Barrow, other DIY

Mainframe Customs - EK Stuff, Sleeve, other DIY


----------



## rediornot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, I don't know why they are freaking out. Unless they really close to the coast which seems the case with majority of the big Florida cities.
> 
> Myself, I loving this wind and slight cool air coming off the edges of that Hurricane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since Fall taking its lovely time to cool off down here.
> Now, that one was a nutty one for sure. Even us down here in Southeast tip of Alabama got rain off that one, plus the clouds extended all the way out to us. That was one crazy Hurricane.
> 
> Heck, one of the instructors at Kessler AFB showed us some videos from that. Darn water got all the way to the base and flooded it.


my son was stationed at Keesler during that, he was assigned to supervise one of the shelter, they didn't evacuate the students and the land lines and cell phones were down. he remembered an antenna on the roof and made an autovon call, military sat link to the commercial phone system. bypass long distance charges in the old days. he called me here in Georgia and I gave him weather updates all night. after katrina passed, the tail of the hurricane had reverse flow. after the whole thing passed, the wind were straight in over 100 mph because the pressure was so low it was like a vacumn sucking the air in behind. all of the lumber from houses and other buildings were like toothpicks in the streets.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rediornot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, I don't know why they are freaking out. Unless they really close to the coast which seems the case with majority of the big Florida cities.
> 
> Myself, I loving this wind and slight cool air coming off the edges of that Hurricane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since Fall taking its lovely time to cool off down here.
> Now, that one was a nutty one for sure. Even us down here in Southeast tip of Alabama got rain off that one, plus the clouds extended all the way out to us. That was one crazy Hurricane.
> 
> Heck, one of the instructors at Kessler AFB showed us some videos from that. Darn water got all the way to the base and flooded it.
> 
> 
> 
> my son was stationed at Keesler during that, he was assigned to supervise one of the shelter, they didn't evacuate the students and the land lines and cell phones were down. he remembered an antenna on the roof and made an autovon call, military sat link to the commercial phone system. bypass long distance charges in the old days. he called me here in Georgia and I gave him weather updates all night. after katrina passed, the tail of the hurricane had reverse flow. after the whole thing passed, the wind were straight in over 100 mph because the pressure was so low it was like a vacumn sucking the air in behind. all of the lumber from houses and other buildings were like toothpicks in the streets.
Click to expand...

Lol, Back when that hurricaine flooded Keesler, it really wasn't all that difficult to imagine it. The frontage road has/had hardly any grass and mostly sand there. And it's what, a hundred yards to the beachfront? Maybe farther. It's been a LONG time since I was stationed in Goula.









~Ceadder


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Just do it the right way it will be better in the long run.


What is wrong with leaving the combo together mounted vertical?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Just do it the right way it will be better in the long run.
> 
> 
> 
> What is wrong with leaving the combo together mounted vertical?
Click to expand...

You mean Horizontal? Correct?









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Black Koolance QDC
> 
> 
> 
> Most importantly, hope everyone in the Southeast is safe and sound.
> 
> Here is another humble contribution to this thread. The intent was to build more of a test bench and noodling rig. I saw the Aquatube for the very first time recently in this thread and I knew I wanted to get it in there. Everything was pretty straighforward except for the mounting of the pump. I went through a few orientations, brackets and mounts, and ultimately found the Bitspower D5 Brackets align perfectly with the screw holes in the D Frame Mini.


Is that a black Koolance QDC?


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I have to say. I really am digging the look of that AquaTube. Just for that fact it looks like machinery.
> 
> Think working around aircraft a few years made me like the industrial style more. Whole reason down the road I want to give metal tubing a go for a water cool build.


I agree. I think the Aquatube's practicality vs other reservoirs can be debated, but it definitely has a unique aesthetic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Is that a black Koolance QDC?


It is. I had a couple of these lying around from a prior build. The black QDCs have been problematic for me (at least mine) in the past. If they sit for a bit, I find they can start developing a white residue that causes them to get 'stuck' in position. I haven't seen this issue with the nickel ones yet, and I've had zero issues with them. I may swap out the black one at some point down the line.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Reservoir / Loop question guys/gals

I am using a cooltek w2 and a D5 pump with a xspc single bay res.. I want to do the flow the same as a build ive seen previously



Here is my question.. I was looking at the page for the bay res and it says that the top port in that orientation is the actual outlet and the bottom port is the in port...



so that means the "IN" port would connected directly to the pump is that going to be a problem?


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You mean Horizontal? Correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No, vertical. I can see how horizontal would not be good for the pump.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Hey everyone, it's been a long time since I've posted. The pastel red in Gray Son turned a really ugly purple so I drained it and put in clear X1 fluid with red dye.





I moving next weekend so I'll try to get some more/better pics then. The red is really dark, may have used too much dye lol. I think next time I upgrade the system I'll switch to EK's clear premix and stop fooling around with dyes.


----------



## mouacyk

Anybody remember that build where each cpu, chipset, and gpu blocks were custom designed to work in layers? I can't find it anywhere anymore. In total there were about 7 or so layers to complete the water blocks.


----------



## cadger

Finally happy with my first water cooling rig after a couple of changes this past month. More pics here - https://imgur.com/a/O9WoF#iKbsBqZ


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Radmanhs Measure the depth of the fitting if you don't already know it. Then wrap your tubes slightly over that length and give it a whirl. This way the visible tubing will not be scratched and lightly sand the exposed portion little by little until you get a tight fit but one that will work with those fittings. Don't overdo it cause it could be disaster when pressure builds in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I used spit and water with a drop of soap, still was only able to get 1 out of 4 fitting/tube connections to work. Can I very lightly sand the outside edge that goes into the connector to reduce the radius until it slides in snugly?
> 
> 
> 
> What fittings/tubing are you using? Have you tried taking the fittings apart and sliding the cap and o-ring on the tube first, then place the tube in the fitting, then slide the o-ring and cap down?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can't take apart those BP dual ring pushfits. Simply put you have to pre-lube the fittings in Distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A dab of silicon grease around the rim and tip of the tube will work wonders. I also read a post, but haven't tried it, about using KY jelly the same way,
Click to expand...

This so many times over. "111" aka (the now renamed) molykote is amazing.

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.amazon.com/Corning-Molykote-Compound-5-3oz-150grams/dp/B002WDU1J8&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwjr35iWxszPAhUH8WMKHflvB0sQFggmMAQ&usg=AFQjCNFSmMniLGI7VDNJeLnJtYh9398mRg


----------



## Radmanhs

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-oz-Plumber-s-Grease-30620/203489444 will this stuff work?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-oz-Plumber-s-Grease-30620/203489444 will this stuff work?


"Not for use on rubber or synthetic O-rings" is right in the item description.


----------



## Radmanhs

whoops, didn't read that lol


----------



## Radmanhs

what about this stuff? Seem's like it will work fine, just want to make sure. Obviously I'm not going to spray it directly into the fitting


----------



## Mega Man

there is no stuff in your post
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> what about this stuff? Seem's like it will work fine, just want to make sure. Obviously I'm not going to spray it directly into the fitting


----------



## rediornot

I worked in industrial maintenance for 20 years after getting out of the airforce for 23 years. and in the oil (food) refinery that I worked in we use push to connect connecters with the air fittings and tubing. would that work with these. just wondering, we didn't have leak problems with them and they were so easy to use. they came in plastic, brass, and stainless steel.?


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is no stuff in your post
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> what about this stuff? Seem's like it will work fine, just want to make sure. Obviously I'm not going to spray it directly into the fitting
Click to expand...

awkward

http://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SPECIALIST-11-oz-Specialist-Silicone-300012/204500174


----------



## jopale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Hey everyone, it's been a long time since I've posted. The pastel red in Gray Son turned a really ugly purple so I drained it and put in clear X1 fluid with red dye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I moving next weekend so I'll try to get some more/better pics then. The red is really dark, may have used too much dye lol. I think next time I upgrade the system I'll switch to EK's clear premix and stop fooling around with dyes.


Hey! We have the same setup (CPU, MB, GPUs) and I see that you have the auxiliary power connected; can you help me with the pin out? Did you plus the aux power directly into the power supply?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rediornot*
> 
> I worked in industrial maintenance for 20 years after getting out of the airforce for 23 years. and in the oil (food) refinery that I worked in we use push to connect connecters with the air fittings and tubing. would that work with these. just wondering, we didn't have leak problems with them and they were so easy to use. they came in plastic, brass, and stainless steel.?


you can, hard to find g1/4 in the us, but you can order them ( antiquating ect )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is no stuff in your post
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> what about this stuff? Seem's like it will work fine, just want to make sure. Obviously I'm not going to spray it directly into the fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> awkward
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SPECIALIST-11-oz-Specialist-Silicone-300012/204500174
Click to expand...

i wouldnt personally,

you want my opinion get the molykote i linked from either amazon or grainger ( will be pricy, cause its grainger )


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Any silicone grease will do,sprays too but I prefer the grease.

A good clean technique is to rub a dab into some cloth then use the cloth to wipe the tip of the tube or rub the o-ring ,you get the right amount with less mess.
You literally just wanting to make the oring shiny,no clumps
Wear gloves as the grease is hydrophobic and will resist washing off.
I use...


----------



## Radmanhs

after more testing, it seems like there is a problem with bitspower's o-rings. Some of the fittings slide together no problem, while with the same piece of tubing, no matter how much force I use, they won't go together.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> after more testing, it seems like there is a problem with bitspower's o-rings. Some of the fittings slide together no problem, while with the same piece of tubing, no matter how much force I use, they won't go together.


I had this issue with one of my 15 xspc hard-line fittings. The other 14 are perfect, but that one... I never got tube to fit inside of it despite trying 10 times with silicone grease


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> after more testing, it seems like there is a problem with bitspower's o-rings. Some of the fittings slide together no problem, while with the same piece of tubing, no matter how much force I use, they won't go together.


Maybe this post from Costas will help


----------



## kriz225

Hey everyone! This thread was a great place to look for inspiration when I was looking to do my very first water cooled build. While I certainly don't match the level of some of the posts here, I hope these pictures might help folks get some ideas:




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopale*
> 
> Hey! We have the same setup (CPU, MB, GPUs) and I see that you have the auxiliary power connected; can you help me with the pin out? Did you plus the aux power directly into the power supply?


Yes, it's just connected directly to the PSU, no need to wire anything differently :thumbup:.


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> Hey everyone! This thread was a great place to look for inspiration when I was looking to do my very first water cooled build. While I certainly don't match the level of some of the posts here, I hope these pictures might help folks get some ideas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice and clean build








if you painted the ram with some black so you get a 2 tone look it would really match your build.

kinda like this. {dont judge my 3 min gimp skills}


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Reservoir / Loop question guys/gals
> 
> I am using a cooltek w2 and a D5 pump with a xspc single bay res.. I want to do the flow the same as a build ive seen previously
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my question.. I was looking at the page for the bay res and it says that the top port in that orientation is the actual outlet and the bottom port is the in port...
> 
> 
> 
> so that means the "IN" port would connected directly to the pump is that going to be a problem?


Bump one more time bc I could really use help on this one


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Bump one more time bc I could really use help on this one


The only problems I see is that its going to be a bit harder to bleed the air out of the res since you'll have to "maze" it out to the bigger area with the fillport. Not a big deal but I'd keep a close eye on it so you don't fill that entire top with air. Bay res's are usually a pain to fill/bleed though, I'm about to get rid of mine because I just can't stand it anymore.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Reservoir / Loop question guys/gals
> 
> I am using a cooltek w2 and a D5 pump with a xspc single bay res.. I want to do the flow the same as a build ive seen previously
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my question.. I was looking at the page for the bay res and it says that the top port in that orientation is the actual outlet and the bottom port is the in port...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so that means the "IN" port would connected directly to the pump is that going to be a problem?
> 
> 
> 
> Bump one more time bc I could really use help on this one
Click to expand...

As mentioned, bleeding is going to be a challenge, and you'll need to make sure the res stays very close to full at all times, as it'll behave like a top return tube res without a water pipe inside.

I'd put a "T" fitting, facing up with a short extension and cap, at the top rear port, so that you have a bleed / fill point for the res.

If you can turn the front panel of the res around, then you'd have a view of the upper 15 to 20% or so of res to keep an eye on the level.

Darlene


----------



## kriz225

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> nice and clean build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you painted the ram with some black so you get a 2 tone look it would really match your build.
> 
> kinda like this. {dont judge my 3 min gimp skills}
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Thank you! You know, I hadn't thought about that. It'll probably stay as it is, since I like the splash of color, but that looks like it'd look pretty sweet.


----------



## atomicus

Does anyone remember a JayzTwoCents video where he recommend some substance to polish up PETG tubing? I've had a look through and can't find it... it must have been a throwaway comment in one of his vids, not a specific one about it. Failing that, has anyone used anything to buff up PETG and get a better shine?

On a separate note, I am curious if anyone here sells their creations (completed builds that is)? I don't mean your everyday average build, I mean the special unique ones that have clearly had a lot of love and attention poured in to them. Are there people out there who will buy a system like this at a premium? I don't mean this as a full time job or by which to make a fortune or anything (but not lose money either), more just as a means by which to continue your hobby and keep building?


----------



## eucalyptus

Hello,

How do I best prep my radiators before painting? I have used P240 sandpaper on the factory paint, just a little.

How do I best clean them?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Does anyone remember a JayzTwoCents video where he recommend some substance to polish up PETG tubing? I've had a look through and can't find it... it must have been a throwaway comment in one of his vids, not a specific one about it. Failing that, has anyone used anything to buff up PETG and get a better shine?
> 
> On a separate note, I am curious if anyone here sells their creations (completed builds that is)? I don't mean your everyday average build, I mean the special unique ones that have clearly had a lot of love and attention poured in to them. Are there people out there who will buy a system like this at a premium? I don't mean this as a full time job or by which to make a fortune or anything (but not lose money either), more just as a means by which to continue your hobby and keep building?


I actually remember that.

It was in one of his red mist build for his friend







the white 900D with red water cooling. He wanted glass, but fittings didn't match, so they chose PETG instead. And it was some kind of car polish he used to make it shine more. Not sure if I believe it though, only using acrylic anyway.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Does anyone remember a JayzTwoCents video where he recommend some substance to polish up PETG tubing? I've had a look through and can't find it... it must have been a throwaway comment in one of his vids, not a specific one about it. Failing that, has anyone used anything to buff up PETG and get a better shine?


He said he uses PlastX by Meguiars, usually used for headlight restoration/maintenance.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> He said he uses PlastX by Meguiars, usually used for headlight restoration/maintenance.


That's it, perfect thanks!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Does anyone remember a JayzTwoCents video where he recommend some substance to polish up PETG tubing? I've had a look through and can't find it... it must have been a throwaway comment in one of his vids, not a specific one about it. Failing that, has anyone used anything to buff up PETG and get a better shine?
> 
> On a separate note, I am curious if anyone here sells their creations (completed builds that is)? I don't mean your everyday average build, I mean the special unique ones that have clearly had a lot of love and attention poured in to them. Are there people out there who will buy a system like this at a premium? I don't mean this as a full time job or by which to make a fortune or anything (but not lose money either), more just as a means by which to continue your hobby and keep building?


I sold my first build on ebay. Didn't get near what I wanted for it, but it at least covered the watercooling costs and allowed me to start working on the green lantern build.


----------



## jopale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Yes, it's just connected directly to the PSU, no need to wire anything differently :thumbup:.


Hey thanks for the reply! Just to be perfectly clear, what are the pin-outs from the molex to the 6-pin PCIe?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopale*
> 
> Hey thanks for the reply! Just to be perfectly clear, what are the pin-outs from the molex to the 6-pin PCIe?


I'm not sure I understand. I didn't use a special pin out or convert a 6-pin to molex, I just plugged in a spare molex lead from the PSU to the motherboard.


----------



## Trestles126

Story that maybe helps others or maybe I'm just that naive

So after a long build side project on my lil htpc bullet bh4 I was taking final pics and a darkside 4 inch led unstuck from the double sided tape fell hit mobo tray and then hit underside of my Evga stinger z97 mobo and that was it computer shut off and wouldn't start up.

So after a long road of trouble shooting pulling the entire thing apart I rmad the Evga board because the board wouldn't even show lights or codes, nothing, bought new psu same thing. Ended up being both the Cpu 4690k and board that got fried.

Guess be careful with led lights Musta hit just perfect ! Either way out of pocket I had to buy a new 4690k and cut my losses it's back together and am really liking the Mayhems white pastel died a light grey


----------



## DillonHightower

First hardline Job. Getting ready to tear this bad boy down and go for round 2 with differnt setup and colors .


----------



## DillonHightower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> How do I best prep my radiators before painting? I have used P240 sandpaper on the factory paint, just a little.
> 
> How do I best clean them?


You can use alot of things to clean before paint . as long as you sanded and made the surface abrasive that you are going to paint , Clean with rubbing alcohol , or my favorite break cleaner . drys fast and cleans really well . just dont get any on anything that has paint you do like . it will break it down . then hit it with wax and grease remover, tac cloth , then paint . If you need any other details , just message me man .


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> after more testing, it seems like there is a problem with bitspower's o-rings. Some of the fittings slide together no problem, while with the same piece of tubing, no matter how much force I use, they won't go together.


I use Bitspower Ehance Multi-Link fittings along with some E-22 12 mm OD tube and Bitspower 12 mm OD tube. Seeing it's easy to pinch the internal o-ring with the acrylic tube insertion, I started using a round Bic pen barrel and run it around in a circle inside the fitting to push that o-ring up into the crevice. After doing that, nothing but a bit of water around the end of the tube OD has been necessary (for me) for trouble free installation.

I tried using Dawn soap on a few o-rings and it worked very well. BUT! A week later (still building) I could walk to the project and pull the tube out with almost no effort at all. That is with both o-rings installed and the lock ring tight. This could potentially be a problem for other than straight runs and if the tube could slide back out the easily. It would appear the o-rings did not grip the tube. If that is the case, it also would not have passed a leak test.

I understand experiences vary, just sharing mine.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone remember a JayzTwoCents video where he recommend some substance to polish up PETG tubing? I've had a look through and can't find it... it must have been a throwaway comment in one of his vids, not a specific one about it. Failing that, has anyone used anything to buff up PETG and get a better shine?
> 
> 
> 
> On a separate note, I am curious if anyone here sells their creations (completed builds that is)? I don't mean your everyday average build, I mean the special unique ones that have clearly had a lot of love and attention poured in to them. Are there people out there who will buy a system like this at a premium? I don't mean this as a full time job or by which to make a fortune or anything (but not lose money either), more just as a means by which to continue your hobby and keep building?


Don't think anybody's answered this but I believe @snef does, you should check out his work (they're beautiful







like many in this thread).

Edit: He is one of a few who visit this thread who do (although idk at what price/premium) I believe.


----------



## jopale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I'm not sure I understand. I didn't use a special pin out or convert a 6-pin to molex, I just plugged in a spare molex lead from the PSU to the motherboard.


Ah, there's the disconnect; I'm building my own cable. When I plug in my home-made cable, my system doesn't boot. If I remove it I can boot up again.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone remember a JayzTwoCents video where he recommend some substance to polish up PETG tubing? I've had a look through and can't find it... it must have been a throwaway comment in one of his vids, not a specific one about it. Failing that, has anyone used anything to buff up PETG and get a better shine?
> 
> 
> 
> On a separate note, I am curious if anyone here sells their creations (completed builds that is)? I don't mean your everyday average build, I mean the special unique ones that have clearly had a lot of love and attention poured in to them. Are there people out there who will buy a system like this at a premium? I don't mean this as a full time job or by which to make a fortune or anything (but not lose money either), more just as a means by which to continue your hobby and keep building?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't think anybody's answered this but I believe @snef does, you should check out his work (they're beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like many in this thread).
> 
> Edit: He is one of a few who visit this thread who do (although idk at what price/premium) I believe.
Click to expand...

B NEGATIVE did as well


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopale*
> 
> Ah, there's the disconnect; I'm building my own cable. When I plug in my home-made cable, my system doesn't boot. If I remove it I can boot up again.


Sounds like yout home made cable has a short or is pinned wrong


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopale*
> 
> Ah, there's the disconnect; I'm building my own cable. When I plug in my home-made cable, my system doesn't boot. If I remove it I can boot up again.


For pinout information, you may want to try here: Power Supply Pinouts

There are also a number power supply clubs here at OCN where you might find answers and discussion.


----------



## jopale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Sounds like yout home made cable has a short or is pinned wrong


Yea, when I look at online pictures of pre-made cables, there are double wires involved; mine are only single cables. What I don't understand is that this is suppose to be auxiliary power, not the main. Even if I had single wires, it should provide supplemental power, but it doesn't. There's something more to it I think. I'm too lazy to do double wires right now though...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopale*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Sounds like yout home made cable has a short or is pinned wrong
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, when I look at online pictures of pre-made cables, there are double wires involved; mine are only single cables. What I don't understand is that this is suppose to be auxiliary power, not the main. Even if I had single wires, it should provide supplemental power, but it doesn't. There's something more to it I think. I'm too lazy to do double wires right now though...
Click to expand...

Some of those double wires are Ground wires. So if you don't have two grounds in at least one location(roughly the 4th wire at the Ground) then something isn't getting power at the best case scenario. Worst case is the lack of that ground wire is causing a short and has a good chance of borking your hardware.









~Ceadder


----------



## zoson

One of the pumps in my MCP35x2 is failing. Does anyone know where I can just the pump portion instead of having to buy an entire MCP35x?
Kinda ridiculous to have a $200 pump assembly and if you need a replacement part you have to buy another $100 pump. =\

Or maybe another DDC with PWM that I can pull the internals out of and stick in the swiftech MCP35x housing?


----------



## Mega Man

any ddc will ( or should ) fit, if it does not you should be able to swap the housing so it can


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{Dr. Rockso}*
> 
> You can use alot of things to clean before paint . as long as you sanded and made the surface abrasive that you are going to paint , Clean with rubbing alcohol , or my favorite break cleaner . drys fast and cleans really well . just dont get any on anything that has paint you do like . it will break it down . then hit it with wax and grease remover, tac cloth , then paint . If you need any other details , just message me man .


Thanks a lot Dr. Rockso! I will definitely shoot you a PM!








Just need to get to work first hehe

Thanks again and ofc + rep


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Thanks a lot Dr. Rockso! I will definitely shoot you a PM!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to get to work first hehe
> 
> Thanks again and ofc + rep


Search for paintbox 101 using the OCN search.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{Dr. Rockso}*
> 
> First hardline Job. Getting ready to tear this bad boy down and go for round 2 with differnt setup and colors .


Nice build and it seems you are a man with fine taste in snowboards.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Any silicone grease will do,sprays too but I prefer the grease.
> 
> A good clean technique is to rub a dab into some cloth then use the cloth to wipe the tip of the tube or rub the o-ring ,you get the right amount with less mess.
> You literally just wanting to make the oring shiny,no clumps
> Wear gloves as the grease is hydrophobic and will resist washing off.
> I use...


I use the sprays all the time at work on pm s for gaskets and such. Really do help with certain brand gaskets that don't want to go in there proper spot


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> One of the pumps in my MCP35x2 is failing. Does anyone know where I can just the pump portion instead of having to buy an entire MCP35x?
> Kinda ridiculous to have a $200 pump assembly and if you need a replacement part you have to buy another $100 pump. =\
> 
> Or maybe another DDC with PWM that I can pull the internals out of and stick in the swiftech MCP35x housing?


I believe alphacool sells one with no top on it for 40 ish I believe on ppc. Will check when I get some down time


----------



## ivoryg37

Rebuilding one of my PCs. I really think this is my favorite monoblock. I need to learn how to sleeve double wire PSU though so I don't have to hide the cables in this acrylic build


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I believe alphacool sells one with no top on it for 40 ish I believe on ppc. Will check when I get some down time


Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for. Heatsink base, too! I just hope the screws fit...


----------



## krutoydiesel

Tried my hand at polishing my blocks, my apologies for the photos as I was shooting from an iPhone 6.

Thanks to Lowfat for the polishing guide


----------



## ivoryg37

Wow, beautiful! I never bother to polish already clear acrylic but I may have to


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@krutoydiesel

Did you leave the EK badge during polish?

TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @krutoydiesel
> 
> Did you leave the EK badge during polish?
> 
> TCO


I didn't touch the top whatsoever, just polished the sides and the inside of the block.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Fair enough









TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Fair enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Have you tried polishing the insert? Looking at it, seems like that could end up in a mess or cost me another insert.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Have you tried polishing the insert? Looking at it, seems like that could end up in a mess or cost me another insert.


I wouldn't polish the Acrylic Insert (if that is what you are referring to? ) because of the channels that the insert is comprised of.

TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I wouldn't polish the Acrylic Insert (if that is what you are referring to? ) because of the channels that the insert is comprised of.
> 
> TCO


That's what I thought too. Was just wondering if anyone did it or not, though it seemed like it would ruin the point of the insert.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> That's what I thought too. Was just wondering if anyone did it or not, though it seemed like it would ruin the point of the insert.


Maybe not so-say "ruin" it, but lessen the effectiveness of the insert. I always feel kind of sketchy when polishing the waterblocks for the GPU blocks because they are so thin in the first place. Starting at 400 grit as I have done in the past makes me sweat a tad due to possibly taking off to much acrylic in the polish process.

TCO


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Have you chamfered the edges of the Tubing?
> 
> You should have been able to get this done already. So I feel as though something is awry on your end. Pictures of the tube and fittings?
> 
> TCO


Ah yes, the simple things. Let's start from the beginning and not assume this has been done.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Ah yes, the simple things. Let's start from the beginning and *not assume* this has been done.


As is the bane of most problems, or I should say, assuming something

TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Maybe not so-say "ruin" it, but lessen the effectiveness of the insert. I always feel kind of sketchy when polishing the waterblocks for the GPU blocks because they are so thin in the first place. Starting at 400 grit as I have done in the past makes me sweat a tad due to possibly taking off to much acrylic in the polish process.
> 
> TCO


My GPU is thick, I also did not polish the face or the back, just the sides and the flow paths. Pretty sweet that my block had an Oring on the outside of the flow path and on the inside area of the flow paths so I wouldn't have any coolant bleed over.


----------



## toggLesss




----------



## 0ldChicken

I polished my Evo top as soon as I got it. I cringed when I took the internals from my MX and put them inside though. There's just too many surfaces to polish...


----------



## LiquidHaus

re-built my system over the weekend in a new case - figured i'd redesign the motherboard loop.. it took so long lol


----------



## jarble

wow


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> re-built my system over the weekend in a new case - figured i'd redesign the motherboard loop.. it took so long lol


I bet it did!
But certainly worth it, nice job!


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I believe alphacool sells one with no top on it for 40 ish I believe on ppc. Will check when I get some down time


Ack, turns out this is 4pin molex only with a single wire 3pin rpm sense... So no PWM/way to control it with software.







I emailed swiftech asking if they sell just motor assemblies as replacements for existing owners.


----------



## Hard Five

My first ever build. Went right for water cooling and PETG tubes.
Gained a lot of info from this board so








Id want to add a second 980ti Poseidon if I can find another for reasonable $ but otherwise I'm quite happy with where she's at. May take off the Poseidon fan cover (red) and paint it blue to match build - anyone have disassembly instructions?
Pics make lines look crooked but they are straight/parallel and match up well (drain purposefully slants down).


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> wow


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I bet it did!
> But certainly worth it, nice job!


Thanks guys.

The rest of the system should be done tonight so I'll have some legit shots to post









This new system has a few tricks up it's sleeves and I am very excited lol


----------



## roamin

Nearly finished my caselabs s8 build. Just got to make some more custom wiring with mdpc sleeve for gpu and cpu power and i think im done.


----------



## intermission

I just finished up my first water cooled build in 5 years. It's nice to be back underwater

Water cooling components

- EK-Supremacy MX CPU Waterblock - Acetal
- EK-FC R9 Fury X Water Block - Nickel + Acetal
- Magicool Extreme Slim Profile 3X120mm Radiator
- EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
- Alphacool Black compression fittings
- Tygon 3/8"x1/2" tubing

PC components

- MSI Z87-GD65 MoBo
- G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB
- PNY 960gb SSD
- XFX R9 Fury X
- Corsair RM650i PSU
- Intel Processor 4690k OC to 4.4 ghz


----------



## snorex1

Built this about a month ago, thought Id share it here.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished up my first water cooled build in 5 years. It's nice to be back underwater
> 
> Water cooling components
> 
> - EK-Supremacy MX CPU Waterblock - Acetal
> - EK-FC R9 Fury X Water Block - Nickel + Acetal
> - Magicool Extreme Slim Profile 3X120mm Radiator
> - EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
> - Alphacool Black compression fittings
> - Tygon 3/8"x1/2" tubing
> 
> PC components
> 
> - MSI Z87-GD65 MoBo
> - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB
> - PNY 960gb SSD
> - XFX R9 Fury X
> - Corsair RM650i PSU
> - Intel Processor 4690k OC to 4.4 ghz


Looks like a nice clean build to me, well done! Maybe illuminate the resivoir a bit as its the only element which looks a bit dark, but it could just be the photos.


----------



## intermission

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Looks like a nice clean build to me, well done! Maybe illuminate the resivoir a bit as its the only element which looks a bit dark, but it could just be the photos.


Thanks

Yeah, I think I added too much dye to the loop. I might try to dilute it some


----------



## LiquidHaus

Alriiiight! So I finally got some pictures last night with my actual camera lol still need to take some of the full case though.


----------



## atomicus

That's bend-tastic! Don't think I've ever seen so much tubing in a build that leaves the GPU out of the loop lol! Why didn't you put that under? Nice job though.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> That's bend-tastic! Don't think I've ever seen so much tubing in a build that leaves the GPU out of the loop lol! Why didn't you put that under? Nice job though.


Haha, thanks man.

The reason being is because I'm waiting for Watercool to finish up their block for the 1080 FTW. Should be coming out this month actually.


----------



## ruffhi

very nice - good to see you remove those little black dots







.

Is that clear tubing with white liquid ... or white tubing? And those fittings are monsoon?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> very nice - good to see you remove those little black dots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Is that clear tubing with white liquid ... or white tubing? And those fittings are monsoon?


Yeah lol with those tight bends those dots help me out big time in knowing where to bend when I eyeball it.

And the hardline is clear, the liquid is Ice Dragon Nanofluid. Super good stuff.

They are the older Economy fittings by Monsoon. I love that they released a Version 2 of the fittings because in my opinion these are the best looking fittings out there. The 2nd revision incorporates a taller design accommodating a second o-ring for more stability and an even better seal than before.

That all being said these are the version 1s. I have wayyy too many to ditch em just for the version 2s.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Yeah lol with those tight bends those dots help me out big time in knowing where to bend when I eyeball it.


I am planning a few bends and will try the black dot approach. The pencil option just wasn't working for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> That all being said these are the version 1s. I have wayyy too many to ditch em just for the version 2s.


I know exactly what you mean. I have at least 6 boxes (black / white) at home.


----------



## ali13245

I was wondering if it would be alright to sleep my pc at night, or when it's not in use rather than just shutting it down. My only concern is will it be okay to do this for a watercooled system? Will the pumps shut off when in sleep mode? I have D5 pumps (non pwm) that connect straight to the power supply using molex connection.


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I was wondering if it would be alright to sleep my pc at night, or when it's not in use rather than just shutting it down. My only concern is will it be okay to do this for a watercooled system? Will the pumps shut off when in sleep mode? I have D5 pumps (non pwm) that connect straight to the power supply using molex connection.


Putting your computer to sleep won't cause any issues. The D5 pumps will power down while in sleep mode.


----------



## erso44

I´m searching for a new CPU watercooling part rank for 2016...


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> re-built my system over the weekend in a new case - figured i'd redesign the motherboard loop.. it took so long lol


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Alriiiight! So I finally got some pictures last night with my actual camera lol still need to take some of the full case though.


Looks great







what size of tubing is dat?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what size of tubing is dat?


thanks, man!

it's Monsoon's 3/8x1/2 PETG tubing


----------



## LiquidHaus

Finally got a shot of the whole case as well.

Some of you may hate on the case choice based on who makes it but.. I always have plans to cut and modify the heck out of any case I get my hands onto.

I simply was not going to do those modifications on a Caselabs. Waste of money in my opinion.



560mm on bottom, 480 up top, 240 in the front and a 360 next to the motherboard.

With all the cooling this thing has, I can run the fans at their lowest speed; decibels inside the case are at about 32 - I can barely hear the thing and it sits right next to me. So very happy with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

I get it but there is good reason to hate that manufacturer. They could've bought rights to the design and nobody would hate them at all.

But that's not what they're about. I used to like their designs but that was over 5 years ago when they were being innovative.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kimir

Looking good tho, but that graphic card is begging for watercooling imo.


----------



## mouacyk

Yeah. Put it under water. Put it under water please.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Finally got a shot of the whole case as well.
> 
> Some of you may hate on the case choice based on who makes it but.. I always have plans to cut and modify the heck out of any case I get my hands onto.
> 
> I simply was not going to do those modifications on a Caselabs. Waste of money in my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> 560mm on bottom, 480 up top, 240 in the front and a 360 next to the motherboard.
> 
> With all the cooling this thing has, I can run the fans at their lowest speed; decibels inside the case are at about 32 - I can barely hear the thing and it sits right next to me. So very happy with it.


another interessting question is, how much does it weight? xD I bet around 20 kg


----------



## snorex1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Finally got a shot of the whole case as well.
> 
> Some of you may hate on the case choice based on who makes it but.. I always have plans to cut and modify the heck out of any case I get my hands onto.
> 
> I simply was not going to do those modifications on a Caselabs. Waste of money in my opinion.
> 
> 560mm on bottom, 480 up top, 240 in the front and a 360 next to the motherboard.
> 
> With all the cooling this thing has, I can run the fans at their lowest speed; decibels inside the case are at about 32 - I can barely hear the thing and it sits right next to me. So very happy with it.


another question would be.. are you running this loop on a single d5 pump?


----------



## Kimir

Why not, I'm using a single D5 with two 480, one 360 and one 240mm rads, two GTX780Ti, one 4930K and R4E VRM blocks and everything's fine.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I get it but there is good reason to hate that manufacturer. They could've bought rights to the design and nobody would hate them at all.
> 
> But that's not what they're about. I used to like their designs but that was over 5 years ago when they were being innovative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You wouldn't call their wall mount case innovative? In terms of main stream, I haven't really seen anything else like that. Don't get me wrong - I'm not all of a sudden turning into the guy defending Thermaltake. They've definitely done some bad stuff in the past. My situation dictated going with them instead of Caselabs. It felt good to cut up a Thermaltake. It wound't have felt good to cut up a Caselabs









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Looking good tho, but that graphic card is begging for watercooling imo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Yeah. Put it under water. Put it under water please.


Haha, yes I have heard from quite a few people on instagram about this. Don't worry, I have plans to do it. The FTW block from Watercool isn't available yet; that's what I plan on going with.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> another interessting question is, how much does it weight? xD I bet around 20 kg


Most likely lol I haven't had the chance to weigh it though. I am curious about it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorex1*
> 
> another question would be.. are you running this loop on a single d5 pump?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Why not, I'm using a single D5 with two 480, one 360 and one 240mm rads, two GTX780Ti, one 4930K and R4E VRM blocks and everything's fine.


No sir. Even though a single d5 could make it around this loop, I wanted more flow. I have a second d5 mounted behind the 560, next to the 360/under the 240. Talk about close quarters. Barely had room to do anything back there lol. Both pumps are set to 56% power, and my flow meter says 144LPH.


----------



## Kimir

That's about the flow I have with my single D5 vario at 100% (between 146 and 150 LPH).


----------



## Ceadderman

@lifeisshort117 I would if they didn't get the idea from us Enthusiasts. Sure they added feet so it can stand on its own, but since the T10 what have they actually done that is entirely of their own design.

Nada.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Looking good









I dunno why, but I feel like eating Udon noodles all of the sudden after watching at the photo







It looks yummy.









...and why is the Video card so lonely there in the corner all by itself?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got a shot of the whole case as well.
> 
> Some of you may hate on the case choice based on who makes it but.. I always have plans to cut and modify the heck out of any case I get my hands onto.
> 
> I simply was not going to do those modifications on a Caselabs. Waste of money in my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 560mm on bottom, 480 up top, 240 in the front and a 360 next to the motherboard.
> 
> With all the cooling this thing has, I can run the fans at their lowest speed; decibels inside the case are at about 32 - I can barely hear the thing and it sits right next to me. So very happy with it.


----------



## atomicus

I think AllGamer has hit the nail on the head.. you need to rename this build 'Project Noodles'


----------



## Questors

It's a great looking build. You did a great job with the tube work.

Myself, I went with CaseLabs and couldn't be happier.


----------



## paskowitz

Just finished my custom cut vinyl cover for my back plate. Looks pretty sweet if I do say so myself...


----------



## Questors

Nice work, it looks good.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Haha, thanks man.
> 
> The reason being is because I'm waiting for Watercool to finish up their block for the 1080 FTW. Should be coming out this month actually.


What is "Watercool"? Can you link to it please. Thank you


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> What is "Watercool"? Can you link to it please. Thank you


http://watercool.de/


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://watercool.de/


Nice. I wonder how they compare with EK waterblocks.


----------



## krutoydiesel

How safe or unsafe is this way of "mounting my pump"?

Basically the pump is held by the fitting between it and the res, its basically floating, and the res is held by an Singularity computers res mount.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shud be fine. I mounted my T virus Reservoir similarly. So long as the rest is held stable by a result mount or even zips, it should be fine. Mine was zipped to the hardware rack in my case.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

I'd have gone for the D5 reservoir bottom if I were you, and If I were to mount it like that.

but yeah, that works, as long as the reservoir is secured, the pump should be fine.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> How safe or unsafe is this way of "mounting my pump"?
> 
> Basically the pump is held by the fitting between it and the res, its basically floating, and the res is held by an Singularity computers res mount.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't know about suspending a D5 like that, I probably wouldn't do it, but I do know you need to chunk that EK anti-vortex foam now! That stuff breaks down fast and gets all in the loop.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I don't know about suspending a D5 like that, I probably wouldn't do it, but I do know you need to chunk that EK anti-vortex foam now! That stuff breaks down fast and gets all in the loop.


Radnad speaks the truth! That foam breaks down and gets clogged up in the micro channels of your cpu&gpu blocks real fast. I remember taking an old loop apart for maintenance and that thing just crumbled between my finger tips when I took it out after 1 year.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Or at least if you are determined to use it, put an inline filter between it and the blocks... but now you're adding even more restriction to the loop.









Not sure why you would though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Nice. I wonder how they compare with EK waterblocks.


Quite favorably actually!

The heatkiller blocks I had on my 7970's were the best reviewed on several sites IIRC. Of course, I would have used them even if they weren't (as long as they were close) because they were so pretty.









When it came time for my new build I didn't hesitate to go with their new revision CPU block... though I can't tell you how it compares as I don't have an EK CPU block to compare it to. But you can read a review here. Basically, it beats the EK blocks they compared it to (but only by a margin that is insignificant in reality).

EK blocks are great, but it seems like they're becoming ubiquitous and I like to be a little different - using an EK GPU block on the 1080 though this time because the heatkiller looked a little 'busy' IMO.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Nice. I wonder how they compare with EK waterblocks.


I knew about Watercool before I knew of EK. There was a point where I asked the same question, only in reverse.









Watercool products are some of the best quality, best performing PC water cooling products going. I like and have used both brands in all three of my builds and been happy. Both companies have provided me with outstanding customer service!

Extreme Rigs is a great site with some of the most in depth review work I have had the pleasure of reading.

Watercool Heatkiller IV

HardwareMax is a German PC hardware & water cooling gear review site with French and English versions.

Four GTX 980 Ti Water Blocks

As an end note, when I create a new build, I usually sell the used water blocks. In every case so far, the Watercool brand has sold faster and for more money than EK.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shud be fine. I mounted my T virus Reservoir similarly. So long as the rest is held stable by a result mount or even zips, it should be fine. Mine was zipped to the hardware rack in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I'd have gone for the D5 reservoir bottom if I were you, and If I were to mount it like that.
> 
> but yeah, that works, as long as the reservoir is secured, the pump should be fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I don't know about suspending a D5 like that, I probably wouldn't do it, but I do know you need to chunk that EK anti-vortex foam now! That stuff breaks down fast and gets all in the loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Radnad speaks the truth! That foam breaks down and gets clogged up in the micro channels of your cpu&gpu blocks real fast. I remember taking an old loop apart for maintenance and that thing just crumbled between my finger tips when I took it out after 1 year.


Thank you gents. I will take out the filter. The res is held pretty damn solid and if anything I can always get another singularity res mount for extra stability, but this thing is held on solid, and with hard tubing it should strengthen it a tad more.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

External holes filled,now to paint the outer shell and lots of clearcoat!

I love this little In Win 901.


----------



## emsj86

The paint and color looks amazing


----------



## Dasandmancometh

OK guys, I think I fried my CPU. I was finishing up filling my loops and then went to turn her on (ASUS Z87 Deluxe MB, 4790K) and everything came on but no post. So I turned the MB off and looked and noticed the 8 pin CPU power was disconnected. So I connected it and now my CPU_led light is constant red.

So did I fry it? I'm pretty sure I did.

I know this isn't really the right thread, but WTH.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> OK guys, I think I fried my CPU. I was finishing up filling my loops and then went to turn her on (ASUS Z87 Deluxe MB, 4790K) and everything came on but no post. So I turned the MB off and looked and noticed the 8 pin CPU power was disconnected. So I connected it and now my CPU_led light is constant red.
> 
> So did I fry it? I'm pretty sure I did.
> 
> I know this isn't really the right thread, but WTH.


What does the Motherboard manual says about the Red LED ?

missing the 8pin CPU connector will not kill the CPU, actually it might not turn on because of that,
That happened to me once, I forgot the 8 pin, and I was pondering why the Rig didn't turn on.
I plugged it back in, it came On, but I had to reset the BIOS back to default for it to work.
after that it was all OK.

Is this the first time you power up this motherboard + CPU?

Check the CPU pins underneath, they might be bended and causing a short.

if you have another motherboard or another CPU to try, swap them and see if it's the problem with the CPU or the motherboard.

some motherboards requires a BIOS upgrade, before it can use some CPUs


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> What does the Motherboard manual says about the Red LED ?
> 
> missing the 8pin CPU connector will not kill the CPU, actually it might not turn on because of that,
> That happened to me once, I forgot the 8 pin, and I was pondering why the Rig didn't turn on.
> I plugged it back in, it came On, *but I had to reset the BIOS* back to default for it to work.
> after that it was all OK.
> 
> Is this the first time you power up this motherboard + CPU?
> 
> Check the CPU pins underneath, they might be bended and causing a short.
> 
> if you have another motherboard or another CPU to try, swap them and see if it's the problem with the CPU or the motherboard.
> 
> some motherboards requires a BIOS upgrade, before it can use some CPUs


And or Clear CMOS (Take out the battery on the motherboard if you don't have the button)

TCO


----------



## Dasandmancometh

What does the Motherboard manual says about the Red LED ?

missing the 8pin CPU connector will not kill the CPU, actually it might not turn on because of that,
That happened to me once, I forgot the 8 pin, and I was pondering why the Rig didn't turn on.
I plugged it back in, it came On, but I had to reset the BIOS back to default for it to work.
after that it was all OK.

Is this the first time you power up this motherboard + CPU?

Check the CPU pins underneath, they might be bended and causing a short.

if you have another motherboard or another CPU to try, swap them and see if it's the problem with the CPU or the motherboard.

some motherboards requires a BIOS upgrade, before it can use some CPUs[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And or Clear CMOS (Take out the battery on the motherboard if you don't have the button)
> 
> TCO


I tried both of these and now it just blinks on and then off real quick. I push the clear CMOS and it'll blink on and off again. So something is f'd up, just can't catch a break this month already. I don't have any other CPU's that fit or another MB the CPU will fit in so I'll have to call some people and see what they have to TS with. Time to tear down the loops one more time. Thanks for the ideas fellas

The manual doesn't say much about the CPU_LED button, so it was no help.


----------



## Questors

It looks fantastic. Love the paint work!

Behind the motherboard tray...that is the reservoir you built?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I tried both of these and now it just blinks on and then off real quick. I push the clear CMOS and it'll blink on and off again. So something is f'd up, just can't catch a break this month already. I don't have any other CPU's that fit or another MB the CPU will fit in so I'll have to call some people and see what they have to TS with. Time to tear down the loops one more time. Thanks for the ideas fellas
> 
> The manual doesn't say much about the CPU_LED button, so it was no help.


make sure to check for bended pins, or maybe it was just too much TIM making a short

Did this CPU + motherboard combo ever worked before?
it's still not clear to us if this was your first time trying to power up the system, or if you were just doing maintenance to an existing system.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> make sure to check for bended pins, or maybe it was just too much TIM making a short
> 
> Did this CPU + motherboard combo ever worked before?
> it's still not clear to us if this was your first time trying to power up the system, or if you were just doing maintenance to an existing system.


It was working fine just a couple weeks ago in the same exact config. However I had a few issues I had to buy some parts to fix so it had been sitting since then. Issues where dead fan and fan power cords. Went to a board fan power.


----------



## mombasa

Hi, will a Koolance 370 waterblock fit a 6700k skylake processor? the waterblock shows it is compatible with LGA 115X ...


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mombasa*
> 
> Hi, will a Koolance 370 waterblock fit a 6700k skylake processor? the waterblock shows it is compatible with LGA 115X ...


Yes, it is compatible! The"x" in 115x refers to any socket beggining in 115: 1150, 1151, 1155 and 1156


----------



## Jyve

Any performancePC codes floating around? Time for more stuff!


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mombasa*
> 
> Hi, will a Koolance 370 waterblock fit a 6700k skylake processor? the waterblock shows it is compatible with LGA 115X ...


Yes and it is a great performing block. I used one on my AMD FX8350 and it kept it very cool while clocked to 4.8GHz. I would have used it on my 6700k but I wanted the clear EK EVO block.


----------



## Radmanhs

how would you guys remove the orings from a bitspower c89 fitting? Mine got a little jacked up because I wasn't using the fancy silicone grease, which I have now.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Any performancePC codes floating around? Time for more stuff!


OCN55 still works fine last time I ordered... which was just a week or so ago. It doesn't expire as far as I am aware.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> OCN55 still works fine last time I ordered... which was just a week or so ago. It doesn't expire as far as I am aware.


That the 5%? Wasn't there a fall or Oct code that gave 10%


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> That the 5%? Wasn't there a fall or Oct code that gave 10%


If you mean the one at the end of September (10% off orders of $50 or more) it's expired. Haven't seen another one since then but always check their facebook for links if you don't get their email newsletter which will always have them.

My guess is that with the hurricane issues - they're probably not going to have one this month. Although I'm just guessing.

Also noted that they had a 'flash sale' in honor of said hurricane... "Matthew10" however it's also expired now (10/12).


----------



## Jyve

Well that sucks but thanks though. I don't do the Facebook thing so I guess I'll have to sign up for the newsletter.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And or Clear CMOS (Take out the battery on the motherboard if you don't have the button)
> 
> TCO


This happened to me and this fixed it


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> That the 5%? Wasn't there a fall or Oct code that gave 10%


Their was one that just expired last Wednesday which was for 10%. We may get something near Halloween.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> This happened to me and this fixed it


Yeah my bios update on the Strix board hiccupped last night, fortunately I was able to recover that previous bios and settings. Do have to say ASUS did good on having the bios back up prior to attempting to install the new


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno why, but I feel like eating Udon noodles all of the sudden after watching at the photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks yummy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and why is the Video card so lonely there in the corner all by itself?


Lol. It is because I am waiting (not so) patiently for Watercool to finish their FTW block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I think AllGamer has hit the nail on the head.. you need to rename this build 'Project Noodles'


Haha I'm sure my girlfriend would love that name; she loves noodles.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> It's a great looking build. You did a great job with the tube work.
> 
> Myself, I went with CaseLabs and couldn't be happier.


Thanks man, I appreciate that. I definitely wanted to snag a Caselabs - don't get me wrong. Cutting it up though just didn't seem natural. But the Thermaltake I had no hesitation









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Nice. I wonder how they compare with EK waterblocks.


Far superior than EK in my honest opinion.

Build quality, aesthetics, presentation. EK has become huge now - and with every fiber of my being I must always root for the underdog. It helps that Watercool is my favorite anyway


----------



## DarthBaggins

You had me at Watercool


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does watercool only make blocks for reference ( founders ) GPU-s? I looked around and I didn not find any blocks for the custom cards, I will be going with a watercool cpu block this time over the EK one but sadly I have a custom card and seems i have no other options other than going EK ( nothing wrong with their products they are great, but "been there, done that" you know. ) But there is always an option to sell my card and grab a founders edition, really liking the looks on watercool blocks both cpu&gpu.


----------



## prznar1

Try contacting them. They have good support and will help you.


----------



## fast_fate

Claimed to be "_stronger and quieter than the normal D5_" along with some other "unique" features in a package that mounts into any D5 pump top.
Sounds Interesting......
In hand and undergoing scrutiny


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Does watercool only make blocks for reference ( founders ) GPU-s? I looked around and I didn not find any blocks for the custom cards, I will be going with a watercool cpu block this time over the EK one but sadly I have a custom card and seems i have no other options other than going EK ( nothing wrong with their products they are great, but "been there, done that" you know. ) But there is always an option to sell my card and grab a founders edition, really liking the looks on watercool blocks both cpu&gpu.


If I remember correctly, they have plans to product blocks for EVGA's FTW as well as the Asus Strix. Additional information was posted in the Heatkiller Club but I don't quite recall exactly which post at this moment. @Watercool-Jakob would be able to provide additional information on such as well


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Claimed to be "_stronger and quieter than the normal D5_" along with some other "unique" features in a package that mounts into any D5 pump top.
> Sounds Interesting......
> In hand and undergoing scrutiny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Outstanding! Thank you Fast_Fate, I look forward to reading the article!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Claimed to be "_stronger and quieter than the normal D5_" along with some other "unique" features in a package that mounts into any D5 pump top.
> Sounds Interesting......
> In hand and undergoing scrutiny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks interesting and they are making bold claims....

I look forward to the testing data.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Claimed to be "_stronger and quieter than the normal D5_" along with some other "unique" features in a package that mounts into any D5 pump top.
> Sounds Interesting......
> In hand and undergoing scrutiny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Kind of like the housing. As for the claims I will wait on the data for final verdict but I took those claims with a big chunk of salt at this moment.... 12 v and 4500 rpm? How would be more efficient than any other D5? Unless they re-design the whole impeller thing.... Waiting on it









About the Watercool FTW I checked watercool site yesterday and was listed as cancel? Jakob will known for sure.


----------



## Killa Cam

I hope that new alphacool d5 pump is sata powered.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Probably not, they want you frustrated w/ having to use a craptastic Molex connector lol


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> I hope that new alphacool d5 pump is sata powered.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Probably not, they want you frustrated w/ having to use a craptastic Molex connector lol


4 pin "Molex" connector for power.

Which would you like more of ?? Flow or Pressure.
Because out of the box it looks to have the edge on one of these, but not the other









Hopefully it is Aquaero friendly - about to find out.


----------



## paskowitz

Please excuse my potatoe filter camera...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Like the braided tubing


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 4 pin "Molex" connector for power.
> 
> Which would you like more of ?? Flow or Pressure.
> Because out of the box it looks to have the edge on one of these, but not the other
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it is Aquaero friendly - about to find out.


are you already testing it ? do you know when will they start to sell it ?


----------



## fast_fate

Getting the Test Bench back into order, after several months of not being in use and cluttering up with piles of "other stuff to do"
It is hooked up and running, peaks at about 1.85 Amps on 12.1 Volts - out of the box settings with the dial on max.
Likely to begin taking data tomorrow.

Sorry, I have no info about the release date, but I will ask


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Probably not, they want you frustrated w/ having to use a craptastic Molex connector lol


Seriously, when is that connector ever going to die?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Never, just like the PS/2 connector. lol


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Seriously, when is that connector ever going to die?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Never, just like the PS/2 connector. lol


I agree with Darth.... I suspect it will still live on after any kind of apocalypse, with the surviving technicians commenting about why couldn't there be an actually good connector to use for such things...


----------



## atomicus

What AMAZES me is how often I still have molex pins popping out. It's such a useless crappy connector, I can't believe it didn't run off in to the sunset with the floppy drive.


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's a simple connector that works, and is cheap to reproduce which is why it's still around


----------



## AllGamer

I don't mind molex, they are handy and easy to use, they are indeed as the age of the dinosaurs but it's simple and it works, it's reliable that's why they'll be here for a very long time.


----------



## Lou HM

I change my mayhem Extreme White pastel coolant with a pre-mix Orange Pastel, I notice an increase of about 5-8c dregrees in specially my GPU's temps. Should I give it a few days and if tempeture don't decrease go back to the extreme White coolant?


----------



## Radnad

For us modders molex are the easiest to work with also. They are easy to crimp/install/remove/replace, etc.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> For us modders molex are the easiest to work with also. They are easy to crimp/install/remove/replace, etc.


There is no alternative so we have nothing to compare it to. It's something that's just hung around. And they aren't easy to install when the pins are loose (as they invariably are)... but yes, modding them is easy... but they would need to be otherwise we'd all be screwed.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> About the Watercool FTW I checked watercool site yesterday and was listed as cancel? Jakob will known for sure.


WHAT.

Oh I hope this isn't the case. I specifically got the FTW for their block - and redesigned my entire system to showcase said block.

@Watercool-Jakob I didn't even know it was on the site. Is the block canceled?

Edit:

Getting festive tonight!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> WHAT.
> 
> Oh I hope this isn't the case. I specifically got the FTW for their block - and redesigned my entire system to showcase said block.
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob I didn't even know it was on the site. Is the block canceled?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Getting festive tonight!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My bad. Was EKWB and was the Classy block listed as cancelled:

https://www.ekwb.com/news/official-list-of-ek-water-blocks-for-gtx-1080-series/


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Probably not, they want you frustrated w/ having to use a craptastic Molex connector lol


i for one hate sata power..... but imo we need to switch to all minifit jr
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Probably not, they want you frustrated w/ having to use a craptastic Molex connector lol
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, when is that connector ever going to die?
Click to expand...

hopefully never, the fat 4 pins are far superior then sata in every way ( hint, the quality connectors, that are properly built to spec, are not hard to navigate in and out. its the crappy cheap ones that are) unless they are eoled for minifit jrs


----------



## Ceadderman

I have a hard time believing that AC pump is stronger than the EK Lowra vario that I have. Everything looks the same right down to the wiring.









I look forward to your review Fate.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Has anyone here used the brass 13/10mm tubing that performance sales? Looking to redo my loop and simplify it in my caselabs s8 when I upgrade my gpus to the two 980tis and going nickle with all the blocks from copper. Already ordered the supremacy clean nickle block top and lower the ram block and both gpu blocks. Wanted to run brass hard tubing with the "chrome" finish that many companies sale on performance


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know what ram set (64GB or Higher) that's compatible with wateblocks? If possiblele higher grade ram (if their such a thing). My old Corsair Dominator Platinum will not work since the heat spreader is sealed onto the ram.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> What AMAZES me is how often I still have molex pins popping out. It's such a useless crappy connector, I can't believe it didn't run off in to the sunset with the floppy drive.


No kidding. I never had pins pop out, but they are down right annoying to unhook from each other.







I'm glad I have manage to get down to only having to deal with one in my computer, but I plan to redo the pump's molex connector to something else when I tear down my loop to put a different CPU and motherboard in.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks interesting and they are making bold claims....
> 
> I look forward to the testing data.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Kind of like the housing. As for the claims I will wait on the data for final verdict but I took those claims with a big chunk of salt at this moment.... 12 v and 4500 rpm? How would be more efficient than any other D5? Unless they re-design the whole impeller thing.... Waiting on it


For all who were interested in the VPP755 testing,

Just finished the 80% PWM run and it absolutely dominates in comparison to a D5 USB using the same pump top.
Heaps more top end flow rate, but more importantly, a tonne more pressure at our usable flow rate of 1.0 GPM.
and
It does it with much better power efficiency - D5 ran 0.73 amps, the VPP755 runs 0.56 amps for the same 1.0 GPM flow rate.

To say I am impressed with performance data at this stage (testing incomplete) would be an understatement.
Hopefully only a few more days and the complete data set will be available


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> For all who were interested in the VPP755 testing,
> 
> Just finished the 80% PWM run and it absolutely dominates in comparison to a D5 USB using the same pump top.
> Heaps more top end flow rate, but more importantly, a tonne more pressure at our usable flow rate of 1.0 GPM.
> and
> It does it with much better power efficiency - D5 ran 0.73 amps, the VPP755 runs 0.56 amps for the same 1.0 GPM flow rate.
> 
> To say I am impressed with performance data at this stage (testing incomplete) would be an understatement.
> Hopefully only a few more days and the complete data set will be available


cool...I guess I will take my grain of salt and swallow it







I did not put much faith into it but that requires one clarification then. What was done to improve performance? New impeller?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looks interesting and they are making bold claims....
> 
> I look forward to the testing data.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Kind of like the housing. As for the claims I will wait on the data for final verdict but I took those claims with a big chunk of salt at this moment.... 12 v and 4500 rpm? How would be more efficient than any other D5? Unless they re-design the whole impeller thing.... Waiting on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> For all who were interested in the VPP755 testing,
> 
> Just finished the 80% PWM run and it absolutely dominates in comparison to a D5 USB using the same pump top.
> Heaps more top end flow rate, but more importantly, a tonne more pressure at our usable flow rate of 1.0 GPM.
> and
> It does it with much better power efficiency - D5 ran 0.73 amps, the VPP755 runs 0.56 amps for the same 1.0 GPM flow rate.
> 
> To say I am impressed with performance data at this stage (testing incomplete) would be an understatement.
> Hopefully only a few more days and the complete data set will be available
Click to expand...

How are you measuring the current, just a series ammeter, or as voltage drop across a shunt with a scope . . .

With a PWM pump, the current draw is high during the On time, while nearly nil during the off time, if you're using the current meter in your bench power supply, you're getting what's effectively an "averaged" reading of very questionable accuracy.

D.

What's actually important is the power draw in Watts


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How are you measuring the current, just a series ammeter, or as voltage drop across a shunt with a scope . . .
> 
> With a PWM pump, the current draw is high during the On time, while nearly nil during the off time, if you're using the current meter in your bench power supply, you're getting what's effectively an "averaged" reading of very questionable accuracy.
> 
> D.
> 
> *What's actually important is how quiet it is if the performance is better?*


FTFY.

You are right however.


----------



## eucalyptus

I noticed you are discussing connectors.

Myself, I never crimp connectors, I prefer to use XT60 connectors for everything. I use it on all my pumps and similar stuff. Just recently found a smaller version XT90, which I will use for LED's n' stuff.
Also bought a 100 JST red connectors with pre-crimped 10cm cable, daaaaaaamn those are cheap, perfect for LED's, I believe I paid less 10 bucks
















Yeah, XT60 is the way to go!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How are you measuring the current, just a series ammeter, or as voltage drop across a shunt with a scope . . .
> 
> With a PWM pump, the current draw is high during the On time, while nearly nil during the off time, if you're using the current meter in your bench power supply, you're getting what's effectively an "averaged" reading of very questionable accuracy.
> 
> D.
> 
> What's actually important is the power draw in Watts


It is a volt/amp meter at the pump connector, I will investigate the shunt & scope after some sleep.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What's actually important is how quiet it is if the performance is better?.


Noise factor is good and comparable to d5 to my ear.
Will sound check with meter as part of the testing process


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> For all who were interested in the VPP755 testing,
> 
> Just finished the 80% PWM run and it absolutely dominates in comparison to a D5 USB using the same pump top.
> Heaps more top end flow rate, but more importantly, a tonne more pressure at our usable flow rate of 1.0 GPM.
> and
> It does it with much better power efficiency - D5 ran 0.73 amps, the VPP755 runs 0.56 amps for the same 1.0 GPM flow rate.
> 
> To say I am impressed with performance data at this stage (testing incomplete) would be an understatement.
> Hopefully only a few more days and the complete data set will be available


Great news so far!

Very excited about this thing.

Keep the testing coming!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone know what ram set (64GB or Higher) that's compatible with wateblocks? If possiblele higher grade ram (if their such a thing). My old Corsair Dominator Platinum will not work since the heat spreader is sealed onto the ram.


Aren't the dominators designed so the block can attach directly to their heatsinks? How exactly is it sealed?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Aren't the dominators designed so the block can attach directly to their heatsinks? How exactly is it sealed?


Those are the old school first generation dominators that do that.

These new ones have a proprietary pcb since it has the led light bar on top. Technically the block itself could fit, IF the jackets were taller.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I noticed you are discussing connectors.
> 
> Myself, I never crimp connectors, I prefer to use XT60 connectors for everything. I use it on all my pumps and similar stuff. Just recently found a smaller version XT90, which I will use for LED's n' stuff.
> Also bought a 100 JST red connectors with pre-crimped 10cm cable, daaaaaaamn those are cheap, perfect for LED's, I believe I paid less 10 bucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, XT60 is the way to go!


Interesting. But how do you do this? You have to remove your existing molex etc. connectors? I'd never even heard of XT60 connectors before... looking at some images, I don't think I've ever even seen one!


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Interesting. But how do you do this? You have to remove your existing molex etc. connectors? I'd never even heard of XT60 connectors before... looking at some images, I don't think I've ever even seen one!


The XT60 type connectors are widely used in the RC world. If you've never done any RCing you would not normally come across these.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Has anyone here used the brass 13/10mm tubing that performance sales? Looking to redo my loop and simplify it in my caselabs s8 when I upgrade my gpus to the two 980tis and going nickle with all the blocks from copper. Already ordered the supremacy clean nickle block top and lower the ram block and both gpu blocks. Wanted to run brass hard tubing with the "chrome" finish that many companies sale on performance


Well, there are good and bad things as I can see so far (planning on using them in my new build)... first off is the size and the number of fittings that it leaves you with... EK, Bitspower, Barrow come in 12mm and 16mm sizes, XSPC, Bitspower, and Barrow add an interim size at 14mm OD - but the only 13mm fittings I've found so far are the alphacool fittings - which they have to have since they're selling a line of hard tubes in that size. I assume they selected 13mm precisely so they would NOT have any _competition_ for the most part... unfortunately that leaves us with no _selection_.

Add into that the fact that I find their fittings to be really cheap feeling and not available in a black chrome/black sparkle finish... plus they don't have a very large range of adapter fittings and I seriously doubt the finish will survive bending... and I'm starting to rethink the whole idea myself. You can always do copper tubing and once you have it all fitted, pull it out and have it chromed somewhere - I believe B-Neg did that on his SR-2 (or SR-X I forget) build a while back. It looked incredible if you haven't seen it.

It is a good idea - and they look great - especially the borosilicate glass IMO... but if you have any runs with more than one 90 degree bend... you'll have to mix fitting brands (EDIT: or use their adapters), and that may make it look bad.


Also you're at the mercy of their manufacturing and shipping as far as imperfections in the finish and hoping you can trim them out when assembling your build (green arrow).









In their defense however, the alphacool fittings do seem to seal on the tube very well (lots of hold even twisting) and they are definitely more cost effective than the 'premium brands' (though slightly more than the Barrow fittings IIRC).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> The XT60 type connectors are widely used in the RC world. If you've never done any RCing you would not normally come across these.


That's a sweet solution - but I hope they can be found in colors other than yellow... seems like everywhere I look for them they are always the same bright yellow. Need black or gray and I'd definitely take the time to convert all my Molex connections to those!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> That's a sweet solution - but I hope they can be found in colors other than yellow... seems like everywhere I look for them they are always the same bright yellow. Need black or gray and I'd definitely take the time to convert all my Molex connections to those!


Stealth Black XT60 are available


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Stealth Black XT60 are available


+rep Thank you! Ordered.

Glad to see I'm not the only one:
Quote:


> Oh yeah baby lol. No longer gets dirty with time! Whoever decided to use yellow needs to be shot!


----------



## eucalyptus

They are super easy to solder on, and they can handle A LOT of power! As APW63 said, they are widely used in the RC world - which is where I became familiar with them.

Just a tip when you use your solder iron. Let the respective female/male connector be connected. Exactly as showed in the picture down below.

This prevents the small stifts inside get to much heat and get lose and melt the plastic. If you do as the picture, it will prevent this from happening







Good luck!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> They are super easy to solder on, and they can handle A LOT of power! As APW63 said, they are widely used in the RC world - which is where I became familiar with them.
> 
> Just a tip when you use your solder iron. Let the respective female/male connector be connected. Exactly as showed in the picture down below.
> 
> This prevents the small stifts inside get to much heat and get lose and melt the plastic. If you do as the picture, it will prevent this from happening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks, that's a good tip. Usually set up nails or wire sections (if the gauge is adequate) to hold the other side in place. This serves the same purpose but will work with your suggestion as well - plus verifies if there are any issues with the connection prior to wasting the time soldering bad connectors. With these I can't see that being an issue... but I'm sure there's still an occasional manufacturing variance that slips through QC.

It's funny, I'll probably get everything together and wind up just doing a breakout panel and direct wiring the 12V stuff... but I know I'll wind up using these on something - and I do hate the molex connections.


----------



## Zamoldac

Does anyone know if the new Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360 radiators come with plain screws and caps now? (they used to be copper before, but I received plain ones these time).


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> Does anyone know if the new Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360 radiators come with plain screws and caps now? (they used to be copper before, but I received plain ones these time).


The new/latests revision of Alphacool rad comes with plain head black screws and (non copper) black nickel colored caps. Also there are no copper colored stickers included anymore, instead there is a blue colored logo printed on the rad itself.


----------



## Zamoldac

Thank you for answering, for a moment there I thought they messed up the package content







.

Cheers.


----------



## Trestles126

some final pics of my bh2 HTPC build with some grey tint to the mayhems pastel white. fun lil case to work with that had its ups and downs. time to rebuild my caselabs s8 yet again just recieved all new nickel ek blocks for my ram my cpu and dual 980tis which will be replacing the 780s.

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/IMG_6539.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/IMG_6540.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/IMG_6558.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/IMG_6547.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/IMG_6545.jpg.html

http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/IMG_6540.jpg.html


----------



## Fyrwulf

Does anybody have the Singularity Computers Ethereal Dual v3 mount? If so, can you tell me how wide it is?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Does anybody have the Singularity Computers Ethereal Dual v3 mount? If so, can you tell me how wide it is?


*From his website...* (under additional information tab)

Dimensions 15 x 5.5 x 1 cm


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> *From his website...* (under additional information tab)
> 
> Dimensions 15 x 5.5 x 1 cm


That's going to be a tight fit (that's what she said *badumtish*). Thanks for letting me use your brain, I apparently misplaced mine.


----------



## rolldog

Well, I finally cut out the vents on the 120mm extended top for my CaseLabs TH10A. The 120mm top will cover the 2 x 480mm rads up top. I also added 2 momentary vandal push button switches to the front of the extended top with a plate made by MNPCTech. My build has clear coolant and white lights on the fans, in my waterblocks, reservoirs, etc, but with the buttons, I can switch all the lights to UV, which changes the color of everything inside my build, including the coolant since it's Mayhems UV clear blue.

The windows that are going up top are actually white and transparent blue hex rad grills, but I sent PrimoChill the dimensions of the windows and they cut the acrylic layers to fit. They also change colors with the UV. Since all the lighting is Darkside, everything is hooked up to my Aquaero so I can set the level of brightness with the white lights and the UV lights. I kinda like the look of having all the white lights on and the UV strips mounted to the back plate of my GPUs so the coolant running through my GPUs is blue, everywhere else it's clear.


----------



## krutoydiesel

I have finally moved over my build from the Define S to the Enthoo Evolv ATX TG. I will post up more pics when I can. My apologies for the poor quality GoPro photos.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Finally had the chance to finish the paint job. Look at that blue:


----------



## snorex1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Has anyone here used the brass 13/10mm tubing that performance sales? Looking to redo my loop and simplify it in my caselabs s8 when I upgrade my gpus to the two 980tis and going nickle with all the blocks from copper. Already ordered the supremacy clean nickle block top and lower the ram block and both gpu blocks. Wanted to run brass hard tubing with the "chrome" finish that many companies sale on performance


I used Bitspower None Chamfer Brass link tubing in my build and they look amazing. Very easy to cut with the bitspower metal tubing cutter they sell. Overall easy build and looks super clean and they come in a variety of common sizes like 12mm, 14mm , & 16mm which means you can use a variety of fittings. I went with mostly Barrow fittings because they are cheap and top notch quality fittings.

But as far as long term usage or if it causes any issues with a closed loop, I wouldnt know and I have not been able to find any reviews anywhere yet. I guess because these are still fairly new? Idk


----------



## Radnad

Mmmmmmm, gunk...



When the flow is as low as it goes.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I have finally moved over my build from the Define S to the Enthoo Evolv ATX TG. I will post up more pics when I can. My apologies for the poor quality GoPro photos.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thought it was an NZXT Manta for a second


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Mmmmmmm, gunk...
> 
> 
> 
> When the flow is as low as it goes.


holy crap, where's all that stuff coming from


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Mmmmmmm, gunk...
> 
> 
> 
> When the flow is as low as it goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> holy crap, where's all that stuff coming from
Click to expand...

Pretty sure its from the 280 Koolance rad in my sig rig, I think this is the rad I "forgot" to clean and been running for a year now, hehe.


----------



## MR-e

^ I'd expect flakes and particles from a rad... that looks like a worm died and decomposed on your block LOL!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> ^ I'd expect flakes and particles from a rad... that looks like a worm died and decomposed on your block LOL!


LOL







is good to know I was not the only one imagining that.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> ^ I'd expect flakes and particles from a rad... that looks like a worm died and decomposed on your block LOL!


Hey those rads can be pretty dirty sitting in a warehouse, wouldn't surprise me at all if a worm did crawl up in there for safe haven and got shipped out to be water cooled, haha.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I have finally moved over my build from the Define S to the Enthoo Evolv ATX TG. I will post up more pics when I can. My apologies for the poor quality GoPro photos.


So clean. Looks good!


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Hey those rads can be pretty dirty sitting in a warehouse, wouldn't surprise me at all if a worm did crawl up in there for safe haven and got shipped out to be water cooled, haha.


I... just don't know if I'll be able to watercool anymore.


----------



## Fyrwulf

That's why you Blitz your rads.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> That's why you Blitz your rads.


Had nothing to do with blitzing anything, I flat out admitted I didn't clean it at all. I have never blitzed a rad, only do the shake and rinse dance and have never had a problem. Blitz is a marketing gimmick imo, rads still got clean before blitz was around. It was one of those things where I was just in a really big hurry to get the loop done and this rad is more or less permanently in the case since its not a water cooling friendly case, and I rolled with it. I knew I would probably face something when I updated the loop down the road, so I was well prepared. I did buy two pumps before I decided to check blockage in the blocks though, haha, so I'm foul on that one, but a little ketchup got me all squared away. Just too bad I'm out of TIM tonight and cant get it back together, sigh...


----------



## rolldog

Has anyone ordered one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-RFB-Rigid-Tubing-Finishing/dp/B01FN3MKKQ

I did, thinking it was going to chamfer the ends of the acrylic tubing, but it doesn't do that. It did however come in handy after cutting a piece of acrylic, trying to install it, and finding out it's a little too long. Well, Instead of breaking out their saw, or whatever everyone uses to cut their own acrylic tubing, just to take a little bit of length off the tube, then this thing comes in handy. Hooked onto a drill, it shaves the end of the acrylic tubing, shortening it gradually and keeping the tubing with a good straight cut. You can increase the speed of the drill some and put a little more pressure on the drill, and it'll probably shorten a tube by a half inch in a few minutes. It didn't do what I bought it to do, however, it still comes in handy for those cuts that you need to get just right but are a little bit long. By no means is this something necessary, it just makes other jobs a little bit easier sometimes.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Had nothing to do with blitzing anything, I flat out admitted I didn't clean it at all. I have never blitzed a rad, only do the shake and rinse dance and have never had a problem. Blitz is a marketing gimmick imo, rads still got clean before blitz was around. It was one of those things where I was just in a really big hurry to get the loop done and this rad is more or less permanently in the case since its not a water cooling friendly case, and I rolled with it. I knew I would probably face something when I updated the loop down the road, so I was well prepared. I did buy two pumps before I decided to check blockage in the blocks though, haha, so I'm foul on that one, but a little ketchup got me all squared away. Just too bad I'm out of TIM tonight and cant get it back together, sigh...


Although I would agree to an extent with the "marketing gimmick" statement... a little acid wash is great for getting 'the green out'. Don't get me wrong I think the blitz works well and I'm glad I used it - on rads that had been in use for 3 years running pastel. In the sense that my acid-washed and then neutralized rads shine like freshly minted pennies and a ton of gunk came out that would have been in my next loop (I did the hot water shake about 10 times prior and a ton still came out) It was $30 very well spent IMO. However, it's a huge markup for a tiny amount of raw material and some fancy labeling - along with what should be extra safety gear for most modders.

Would I have gotten the same result with hot vinegar water and a baking soda water flush... possibly, although not in my experience.

When most of us do not hesitate to drop $300-400 on fittings alone... can't really fault a niche company for making an attractively packaged $5 solution and selling it for $30.


----------



## charliebrown

so i have some 770 blocks that has die stains on them what to hook my wife p5 up and have them standing up but the stains are horrible anybody know a safe way to make it look new again


----------



## Ceadderman

Try 100% real lemon juice not from concentrate. Should clean them right up. I pick up a couple squeeze bottles on occasion so I have enough to get that like new look.









~Ceadder


----------



## charliebrown

that wont eat into the acrylic will it


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try 100% real lemon juice not from concentrate. Should clean them right up. I pick up a couple squeeze bottles on occasion so I have enough to get that like new look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It works great... of course, depending on the nature of the residue/tarnish/etc... I also have citrus solvent which I've found works better than alcohol at removing TIM, greasy fingerprints, etc... plus makes the room smell nice when you use it.









You can get it almost anywhere but it's great for getting gummy things off surfaces where stronger solvents might cause problems - although I still definitely wouldn't recommend using it on acetal or other plastics (wouldn't use lemon juice or alcohol either). For metals, glass, etc. it's great and evaporates completely without any bad odor (unless you're allergic to citrus or something like that).

I picked up some HERE along with some C-channel for my build, but you can also get it at 'green' art supply houses - just get the high-purity stuff, it's clear not orange like the cheap stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> that wont eat into the acrylic will it


I don't use anything on plastics except a drop of dishsoap in a bucket (EDIT: of water) if desperate - Ceadder was referring to the blocks (I think at least) I thought they were the problem.


----------



## charliebrown

so do i soak the acrylic in the solvent or just scrub with it


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> so do i soak the acrylic in the solvent or just scrub with it


So the acrylic is what's stained not the block itself? In that case I would NOT use solvent, or even lemon juice. I had some that I just polished off with plastic polish.

I guess the lemon juice wouldn't be horrible if you wash it off quickly and don't let it sit... but don't use the solvent on the acrylic... that would be bad!







I thought you meant on the BLOCK not the cover/seal.

Edit for weird double quote.


----------



## charliebrown

no the acrylic is stain bad the block itself is pretty good just want to make the acrylic look good


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

If it's really badly stained I would probably polish it, at least if it's bad enough that a drop of dish soap and water won't work... I forget the brand but there are mild abrasives made for acrylic - look for lowfats fantastic tutorial on "un-frosting" blocks... just skip the sandpaper steps... you shouldn't need that for stains.

If Ceddar's meaning lemon juice for acrylic then I'd trust him that it's OK - but I personally try not to use anything even mildly acidic on plastics.

EDIT: I found it... HERE is lowfat's tutorial (he used Meguiar's PlastiX it seems), but there's also some stuff in a 3-step process that I can't remember at the moment.







White bottles with colored numbers on them if someone else can help. Basically the stuff for headlight clouding repair and picture frame glass restoration...

EDIT 2: NOVUS! The #1 solution is the cleaner/final polish. That's what I used. The other steps are for removing small scratches, pits, etc... which you do _before_ the #1 (I guess they expect you to work backward in their numbering scheme).


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Thought it was an NZXT Manta for a second


The fisheye lens fooled me too! Nice build though!


----------



## bundymania

Thx @ coldzero.eu









& THX @ watercool.de


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Thx @ coldzero.eu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & THX @ watercool.de
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic


Those are some interesting reservoirs, hadn't seen them before. Hope the glass works out better for them than it did for EK, sure looks nice though.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Ooooh, bundymania having his hand on some Watercool Heatkiller reservoirs, and one of them with a pump mount too...


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Has anyone ordered one of these?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-RFB-Rigid-Tubing-Finishing/dp/B01FN3MKKQ
> 
> I did, thinking it was going to chamfer the ends of the acrylic tubing, but it doesn't do that. It did however come in handy after cutting a piece of acrylic, trying to install it, and finding out it's a little too long. Well, Instead of breaking out their saw, or whatever everyone uses to cut their own acrylic tubing, just to take a little bit of length off the tube, then this thing comes in handy. Hooked onto a drill, it shaves the end of the acrylic tubing, shortening it gradually and keeping the tubing with a good straight cut. You can increase the speed of the drill some and put a little more pressure on the drill, and it'll probably shorten a tube by a half inch in a few minutes. It didn't do what I bought it to do, however, it still comes in handy for those cuts that you need to get just right but are a little bit long. By no means is this something necessary, it just makes other jobs a little bit easier sometimes.


I was close to picking up one of these, but in the end I decided to do it by hand with the orange ones that comes included with most PETG tubing kits.

when you sand it by hand, you can feel all irregularities until it becomes smooth.
sanding it with a drill, you might over do it, basically you touch the button and it's over-done, and it might not end up the way you want.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Thx @ coldzero.eu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & THX @ watercool.de


hnnnngggggggggggg


----------



## paskowitz

Seriously, Watercool makes some sexy products.


----------



## Ceadderman

iirc those drill mounted bits aren't available for the larger size tubing. icbw since it's been awhile but that's the reason I never got one.









~Ceadder


----------



## greg1184

I'm working on a new build and I am debating where to put a reservoir. I'm thinking of either mounting it to the 280 reservoir or make the back reservoir pull only and mount it there. This is going to be my first acrylic work when all is said and done.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm working on a new build and I am debating where to put a reservoir. I'm thinking of either mounting it to the 280 reservoir or make the back reservoir pull only and mount it there. This is going to be my first acrylic work when all is said and done.


Mount it to the front rad, make it the focus point. What res are you going to use?


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Mount it to the front rad, make it the focus point. What res are you going to use?


I haven't decided. I wanted to lay out my build before I picked one. Alphacool eisbecher d5 clear looks neat. I was also thinking of getting a helical one and using UV clear blue coolant.


----------



## Silverstone-Z

Rebuilt my loop. Pretty basic components.

Side panel off









Side panel on


----------



## Deedaz

Finished my green lantern build, the etched fittings turned out really good.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverstone-Z*
> 
> Rebuilt my loop. Pretty basic components.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Side panel off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side panel on


looks nice! A little question to Parallel GPU cooling:
Can one GPU get more colling then the other? Because one has a better flow?


----------



## Silverstone-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> looks nice! A little question to Parallel GPU cooling:
> Can one GPU get more colling then the other? Because one has a better flow?


The GPU blocks have the same restriction, since they're both the same block. The incoming water will be split among the blocks evenly.

Another question that comes up with the CPU block also being in parallel with the GPUs, is will the CPU be cooled well enough since they're typically higher in restriction. After some research, I discovered the Raystorm Pro waterblock isn't too restrictive and is actually very near the GPU waterblocks. My current temperatures now are better than they were previously. The thermal paste on all components are Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Can i ask for a quick question?

I've had some problems with my loop this time around. Installed a 4790K system.

The tubes had big air bobbles, but I got rid of them. Seems like my D5 pump was weaker than normal.

My temps are skyhigh for that I'm running. Running folding Nacl on a 4790K is giving me 70'C on stock... I'm running a D5 pump on 100%, XTX360 with 1300RPM Eloops p/p and a XT240. Also running a 1080.

Using a superemacy Evo block for my CPU. The block is cold even after 30 min with nacl folding, same is the rads etc. So it seems like the CPU is making bad contact?

Thanks, and sorry if this is a completely wrong thread to ask!


----------



## Bogga

I know we haven't had really hot temperatures lately (at least not here) and I like when it's a bit chilly so I open up a window to let some cool air in my little mancave. But I wonder if the position of the temperature sensor in my loop has any importance? In my world the temperature of the water can't really differ by much depending on where you have it? I don't remember the temps when stress testing my cpu overclock, but the temp of the water when stress testing my gpu clocks didn't raise the temperature of the water that much. Afaik I haven't passed 31° C in load and in idle I vary between 24-26

I haven't added a tempsensor for ambient, but I guess it's somewhere between 19-21° C


----------



## Silverstone-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Can i ask for a quick question?
> 
> I've had some problems with my loop this time around. Installed a 4790K system.
> 
> The tubes had big air bobbles, but I got rid of them. Seems like my D5 pump was weaker than normal.
> 
> My temps are skyhigh for that I'm running. Running folding Nacl on a 4790K is giving me 70'C on stock... I'm running a D5 pump on 100%, XTX360 with 1300RPM Eloops p/p and a XT240. Also running a 1080.
> 
> Using a superemacy Evo block for my CPU. The block is cold even after 30 min with nacl folding, same is the rads etc. So it seems like the CPU is making bad contact?
> 
> Thanks, and sorry if this is a completely wrong thread to ask!


It could be an air bubble in your CPU block. With low flow rates, bubbles are hard to dislodge. Especially with only a couple waterblocks, you shouldn't really have low flow issues. Tilt your case a LOT without allowing the pump to suck in air.

What speed setting is your D5 set to? If it's PWM, is it connected to a fan header?

This may sound really dumb, but did you remove the protective plastic film on the bottom of the waterblock?

Are you running rigid tubing? Inaccurate bends going into the CPU block can slightly skew it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I know we haven't had really hot temperatures lately (at least not here) and I like when it's a bit chilly so I open up a window to let some cool air in my little mancave. But I wonder if the position of the temperature sensor in my loop has any importance? In my world the temperature of the water can't really differ by much depending on where you have it? I don't remember the temps when stress testing my cpu overclock, but the temp of the water when stress testing my gpu clocks didn't raise the temperature of the water that much. Afaik I haven't passed 31° C in load and in idle I vary between 24-26
> 
> I haven't added a tempsensor for ambient, but I guess it's somewhere between 19-21° C


Any REAL importance? No. The temperature variations in your loop between post-rad and post-waterblock will only differ by a couple degrees. I tend to prefer a temp sensor placed pre-waterblocks, as I prefer to see what the temps going into the blocks are.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverstone-Z*
> 
> Any REAL importance? No. The temperature variations in your loop between post-rad and post-waterblock will only differ by a couple degrees. I tend to prefer a temp sensor placed pre-waterblocks, as I prefer to see what the temps going into the blocks are.


No importance at all... just curiosity. My tempsensor is placed beneath my 480 rad, where the water enters after having passed the 360 rad and the res/pump-combo.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

It won't matter... equilibrium should be reached within a matter of seconds and all of the locations in your loop should be almost identical - unless your flow rate is so abysmal that it's basically standing still.









On my first loop I thought I'd get fancy and put three in - one in res, one after all the blocks and one after all the rads... never saw more than 1C difference between them except right at startup... and that was more likely just the variance between the sensors themselves. Now I just stick one in some port on whichever rad makes running the wire easier to hide.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It won't matter... equilibrium should be reached within a matter of seconds and all of the locations in your loop should be almost identical - unless your flow rate is so abysmal that it's basically standing still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first loop I thought I'd get fancy and put three in - one in res, one after all the blocks and one after all the rads... never saw more than 1C difference between them except right at startup... and that was more likely just the variance between the sensors themselves. Now I just stick one in some port on whichever rad makes running the wire easier to hide.


Supposed so, just thought I'd ask... what temperatures do you guys see in your loops?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

On the build I just finished (rebuild actually) I'm seeing a 1-2C delta at idle and a 13C delta loaded. So in ~24C room, ~25-26C coolant temps at idle and 36-38C running Heaven for 15 minutes - well a bench run and then it running through the demo mode after for 15.

That's with a 3770K (delid) at 5.0GHz and dual 980GTX's - two UT60 360mm rads - dual DDC pumps with swiftech top. During normal gaming use I'd expect to see no higher than 10C delta, and probably less as I play older games that don't stress the cards at all and mostly just work, at which it never will get over the 30C temp I would imagine.

CPU never gets over 70C at the cores even with Prime95 running for hours.

EDIT: Forgot to mention blocks - EK blocks on the 980's, Mips full board block for the MVE, and Raystorm CPU block.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverstone-Z*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I know we haven't had really hot temperatures lately (at least not here) and I like when it's a bit chilly so I open up a window to let some cool air in my little mancave. But I wonder if the position of the temperature sensor in my loop has any importance? In my world the temperature of the water can't really differ by much depending on where you have it? I don't remember the temps when stress testing my cpu overclock, but the temp of the water when stress testing my gpu clocks didn't raise the temperature of the water that much. Afaik I haven't passed 31° C in load and in idle I vary between 24-26
> 
> I haven't added a *tempsensor for ambient,* but I guess it's somewhere between 19-21° C
> 
> 
> 
> Any REAL importance? No. The temperature variations in your loop between post-rad and post-waterblock will only differ by a couple degrees. I tend to prefer a temp sensor placed pre-waterblocks, as I prefer to see what the temps going into the blocks are.
Click to expand...

while we are in this topic of Ambient temp.

Where or which kind of temperature we should actually use to be considered Ambient?

*Outside* the case ambient temp or *Inside* the case ambient temp?

It's mainly to calculate the Delta difference between ambient and loop liquid.

I always used actual house wide Room Temp as "ambient"


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Silverstone-Z*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I know we haven't had really hot temperatures lately (at least not here) and I like when it's a bit chilly so I open up a window to let some cool air in my little mancave. But I wonder if the position of the temperature sensor in my loop has any importance? In my world the temperature of the water can't really differ by much depending on where you have it? I don't remember the temps when stress testing my cpu overclock, but the temp of the water when stress testing my gpu clocks didn't raise the temperature of the water that much. Afaik I haven't passed 31° C in load and in idle I vary between 24-26
> 
> I haven't added a *tempsensor for ambient,* but I guess it's somewhere between 19-21° C
> 
> 
> 
> Any REAL importance? No. The temperature variations in your loop between post-rad and post-waterblock will only differ by a couple degrees. I tend to prefer a temp sensor placed pre-waterblocks, as I prefer to see what the temps going into the blocks are.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> while we are in this topic of Ambient temp.
> 
> Where or which kind of temperature we should actually use to be considered Ambient?
> 
> *Outside* the case ambient temp or *Inside* the case ambient temp?
> 
> It's mainly to calculate the Delta difference between ambient and loop liquid.
> 
> I always used actual house wide Room Temp as "ambient"
Click to expand...

Temps inside the case can vary greatly from one place to another.

I generally use 2 or 3 sensors in different areas, all near intakes, (never near exhausts) and use the A6 to average them, which then becomes the virtual sensor "Ambient" to create the virtual value, delta t, which I use to control fan speeds.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Temps inside the case can vary greatly from one place to another.
> 
> I generally use 2 or 3 sensors in different areas, all near intakes, (never near exhausts) and use the A6 to average them, which then becomes the virtual sensor "Ambient" to create the virtual value, delta t, which I use to control fan speeds.


And now I know what to do with my 3rd sensor that I was just going to leave out! Never thought of averaging them in the A6







but I wanted to have one for top/front and one for bottom as it will be under my desk and the exhausts are likely to create a "hot blanket" along the desktop. Now I can have the rad fans speed up as the blanket thickens. Thanks!


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Temps inside the case can vary greatly from one place to another.
> 
> I generally use 2 or 3 sensors in different areas, all near intakes, (never near exhausts) and use the A6 to average them, which then becomes the virtual sensor "Ambient" to create the virtual value, delta t, which I use to control fan speeds.


Great suggestion









With ambient in my previous post I meant room temperature and not temps in case...


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Temps inside the case can vary greatly from one place to another.
> 
> I generally use 2 or 3 sensors in different areas, all near intakes, (never near exhausts) and use the A6 to average them, which then becomes the virtual sensor "Ambient" to create the virtual value, delta t, which I use to control fan speeds.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> And now I know what to do with my 3rd sensor that I was just going to leave out! Never thought of averaging them in the A6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I wanted to have one for top/front and one for bottom as it will be under my desk and the exhausts are likely to create a "hot blanket" along the desktop. Now I can have the rad fans speed up as the blanket thickens. Thanks!


Thanks to both of you.

and it was good that you mentioned that "_heat cloud_" that forms a top or near the area of our rigs.

I normally keep a regular house fan running to spread the heat around the rooms.

now I know what to use to get a good idea of the actual ambient temp.


----------



## orvils

Did a few changes to my build and thought I should share.

This is how it looked before:


And this is how it looks now:


Full setup picture:


Things changed:
Swapped radiators on the outside instead of inside of the case because acrylic panels were bending a bit. (You would think that Parvum fans would work nice with their case but they are rubber and bend easily)
Re-bent most of the tubing.
Oriented top fans as intake instead of exhaust.
Added two 80mm fans on the back.
Painted RAM and motherboard heatsinks black.
Re-sleeved and shortened all the cables. (I did not have the case when I initially sleeved cables more then a year ago)

All radiator fans run at 700rpm and rear fans at 1100rpm. Both make about same amount of noise, barely audible to me.(I can still overhear mechanical hard drives)

Just for fun here is a picture how I started with this build a year ago. And even now I am thinking of ways to improve. It is one crazy addiction!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverstone-Z*
> 
> Rebuilt my loop. Pretty basic components.
> 
> Side panel off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side panel on


Holy damn that is looking good! I am usually not a fan of "casual" cases, but somehow you managed to make it extremely good looking! It might not be so much modding or work, but I love it anyway! Really great looking!

What tube, coolant and fans are you using? Never seen those fans before, they look pretty good actually









Awesome job man!


----------



## eucalyptus

Is it "free" now to post sponsored build logs on Overclock? Or is it still a 25 usd charge?


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverstone-Z*
> 
> It could be an air bubble in your CPU block. With low flow rates, bubbles are hard to dislodge. Especially with only a couple waterblocks, you shouldn't really have low flow issues. Tilt your case a LOT without allowing the pump to suck in air.
> 
> What speed setting is your D5 set to? If it's PWM, is it connected to a fan header?
> 
> This may sound really dumb, but did you remove the protective plastic film on the bottom of the waterblock?
> 
> Are you running rigid tubing? Inaccurate bends going into the CPU block can slightly skew it.
> Any REAL importance? No. The temperature variations in your loop between post-rad and post-waterblock will only differ by a couple degrees. I tend to prefer a temp sensor placed pre-waterblocks, as I prefer to see what the temps going into the blocks are.


Hi! The watercooling parts are 1 to 2 years old, I bought them new, used them on my older X99 setup, So I've been watercooling for a while. The tubing is great. The D5 is running on max speed, aka 100%. I've tried tilting it, I just don't what what's causing the issue.

Might buy a new pump and CPU block later. Seems like the D5 is running on 40% when it's in reality running on 100%..

EDIT: My GPU is much colder now than it was with my 5960X setup. So it seems like the CPU block is the issue. Will try to re-seat it tomorrow. I don't know how I could have messed it up..


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Is it "free" now to post sponsored build logs on Overclock? Or is it still a 25 usd charge?


It's free, just a few rules. Details here. Can't wait to see what you're doing next


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It's free, just a few rules. Details here. Can't wait to see what you're doing next


Thank you for that







Makes me glad you are saying that







Actually working on a project but I am limited keep my build logs on other forums since Overclock have been struggling.

Sure rules are good.... to a limit... Almost afraid of posting here even if it's free because I will probably get a mod in my back telling me what I can and can not do....

Thanks buddy


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverstone-Z*
> 
> Rebuilt my loop. Pretty basic components.
> 
> Side panel off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Side panel on


very nice


----------



## Silverstone-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Holy damn that is looking good! I am usually not a fan of "casual" cases, but somehow you managed to make it extremely good looking! It might not be so much modding or work, but I love it anyway! Really great looking!
> 
> What tube, coolant and fans are you using? Never seen those fans before, they look pretty good actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome job man!


Thank you!

Tubing is XSPC 14mmOD-12mmID PETG tubing.
For coolant, it's good 'ol distilled water with a kill coil and some blue dye from Bitspower. My intended coolant is Mayhems Pastel Blueberry, but the system will be drained in a couple months for a move, so I figured it'd be a waste.
Fans are Phanteks PH-F140MP & PH-F120MP (bottom)


----------



## Alperen62002

Just want to share my loop here, too ;-D
That was my first build



Just optimize the tubes last week

I used PETG 12/10 Tubes, 420mmRadiator in the front 280mm Radiator in the Top and dual D5 pumps for a better head pressure and redundancy
Water-In Temp Sensor and Water-Out Temp Sensors


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silverstone-Z*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Tubing is XSPC 14mmOD-12mmID PETG tubing.
> For coolant, it's good 'ol distilled water with a kill coil and some blue dye from Bitspower. My intended coolant is Mayhems Pastel Blueberry, but the system will be drained in a couple months for a move, so I figured it'd be a waste.
> Fans are Phanteks PH-F140MP & PH-F120MP (bottom)


How did you bend the tubes from the GPU to the CPU?

TCO


----------



## Alperen62002

Doing some indirect leds today.
 Thin led
... fits perfect between the gpu and Vertical GPU holder


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Doing some indirect leds today.
> ... fits perfect between the gpu and Vertical GPU holder


nice, I can think of a few places those would be useful. Where'd you get them?


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> nice, I can think of a few places those would be useful. Where'd you get them?


Thanks.
They are from CONRAD SE Germany. Their name is led brilliant starr.
They cost me only 3€.


----------



## atomicus

Here is my just finished 303 build... still need to tweak a few things with the cables. These were just quick pics taken with my phone, and I was going to get some better shots today but annoyingly, since taking these pictures the UV effect has faded quite a bit. I've ordered some more concentrate to top it up, which will make it pop more... these pics were taken just shortly after filling, hence all the bubbles in the res. Not sure why it's faded so much already though.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Here is my just finished 303 build... still need to tweak a few things with the cables. These were just quick pics taken with my phone, and I was going to get some better shots today but annoyingly, since taking these pictures the UV effect has faded quite a bit. I've ordered some more concentrate to top it up, which will make it pop more... these pics were taken just shortly after filling, hence all the bubbles in the res. Not sure why it's faded so much already though.


Awesome build!!!!!


----------



## Alperen62002

Is it possible to install this gauge in a Loop for water temp and pressure monitoring?

The oil pressure sensor provided in the kit has 1/8 PT external threads.
Maybe we can connect it with an adapter from aquatuning


----------



## eucalyptus

GG, I can't even make a new thread in the [SPONSORED] section of this forum lol. I can make a new thread in any other forum section, but not that one.

Am I somehow banned or something?

Don't blame me, you are my only friends here and I got to ask somewhere


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> GG, I can't even make a new thread in the [SPONSORED] section of this forum lol. I can make a new thread in any other forum section, but not that one.
> 
> Am I somehow banned or something?
> 
> Don't blame me, you are my only friends here and I got to ask somewhere


I think you have to put it in the regular build logs, tagged [sponsored] and then have the mods move it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Is it possible to install this gauge in a Loop for water temp and pressure monitoring?
> 
> The oil pressure sensor provided in the kit has 1/8 PT external threads.
> Maybe we can connect it with an adapter from aquatuning
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You could, but it would be idiotic . . . .

The temp and pressure ranges for that gage are wayyyyyyy past what you'd ever find in a liquid cooled PC build, so it would never show above it's min base point.

Pressure is a useless thing to know anyway, while having a flow meter could be a lot more useful.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think you have to put it in the regular build logs, tagged [sponsored] and then have the mods move it


Thanks a lot Diva





















Although, I forgot the [SPONSORED] part.... I am a real mess sometimes. Sent all the mods a PM









Have a good night!


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Here is my just finished 303 build... still need to tweak a few things with the cables. These were just quick pics taken with my phone, and I was going to get some better shots today but annoyingly, since taking these pictures the UV effect has faded quite a bit. I've ordered some more concentrate to top it up, which will make it pop more... these pics were taken just shortly after filling, hence all the bubbles in the res. Not sure why it's faded so much already though.


Which coolant is that? UV clear blue?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Which coolant is that? UV clear blue?


Yes, that's the one.


----------



## Kimir

Looks fantastic! What rads are being used on the 303 if you don't mind me asking (nemesis gtx360?)


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You could, but it would be idiotic . . . .
> 
> The temp and pressure ranges for that gage are wayyyyyyy past what you'd ever find in a liquid cooled PC build, so it would never show above it's min base point.
> 
> Pressure is a useless thing to know anyway, while having a flow meter could be a lot more useful.


Thanks for the quick answer.

This gauge is programmable, so you can programm the minimum and maximum temps and pressure.
A flowmeter does not make sense if you use dual pumps in series. While this does double the pressure of two like pumps, it should be noted that it does not double your flow rate. Thats why to monitoring the pressure makes sense.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Looks fantastic! What rads are being used on the 303 if you don't mind me asking (nemesis gtx360?)


Thanks. They are the 360 GTS, thinner ones. GTX are thicker.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Thanks. They are the 360 GTS, thinner ones. GTX are thicker.


thanks, I saw that in the 303 owner club after my post.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You could, but it would be idiotic . . . .
> 
> The temp and pressure ranges for that gage are wayyyyyyy past what you'd ever find in a liquid cooled PC build, so it would never show above it's min base point.
> 
> Pressure is a useless thing to know anyway, while having a flow meter could be a lot more useful.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick answer.
> 
> *This gauge is programmable, so you can programm the minimum and maximum temps and pressure*
> 
> *A flowmeter does not make sense if you use dual pumps in series. While this does double the pressure of two like pumps, it should be noted that it does not double your flow rate. Thats why to monitoring the pressure makes sense*.
Click to expand...

Ermmmmmm, NO . . .

Read the specs in the pic again . . .



The alarm points are programmable, not the ranges:

From the specs:

Temp range: 49 to 138 C

Pressure range; 0 to 145psi

Temps in a liquid cooled PC typically run in the 30's to low 40's C

The pressure you may be able to use the lowest, and usually least accurate, 8 to10% of the range, but it's still flow, regardless of how many pumps you have, that's the more meaningful quantity to know.

Set the pump speed to where you get about 1 to 1.25GPM, and leave it there.

If pressure really meant anything, you'd have to think that by now, with as many experienced builders as have produced so many well engineered builds as these pages testify to, that at least one of them might have let that cat out of the bag somewhere along the line.

Now you've come along and spilled the secret . . .









I guess the only question I have left, is if you have all this knowledge, why did you even ask the question in the first place?

Rather puzzled,

Darlene


----------



## eucalyptus

@atomicus I like your build












































The coolant really looks awesome in the UV light!! Also like the tube from res to radiator









cheers buddy


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Yes, that's the one.


Thanks you picked my next color for me. ?


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys, & gals, [shameless solicitation]

Finally got a buildlog started for the Caselabs builds I'm working on, so I don't have to spam this thread as often.

Feel free to come by and if you get the urge, make like monkeys and fling some poo er, constructive criticism.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1614284/build-log-diva-does-threesomes-foursomes-moresomes-a-veritable-orgy-of-caselabs-mercury-series-builds

[/shameless solicitation]

Thanks for visiting,

Darlene


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Thanks you picked my next color for me. ?


My only issue is that it's already faded a bit since I took the pictures, in about 24 hours. I'm not sure why exactly, but I'm getting some more concentrate (I just used a pre-mix) to 'pump it up' a bit and see what happens. If it fades that quickly again I will contact Mayhems as I don't think it should do that. I know it doesn't last forever, but I wasn't expecting such a quick drop off.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> My only issue is that it's already faded a bit since I took the pictures, in about 24 hours. I'm not sure why exactly, but I'm getting some more concentrate (I just used a pre-mix) to 'pump it up' a bit and see what happens. If it fades that quickly again I will contact Mayhems as I don't think it should do that. I know it doesn't last forever, but I wasn't expecting such a quick drop off.


Interesting. I'll give it a try myself eventually when I finally get my loop assembled. I was thinking of throwing in silver booster as well. What kind of reservoir are you using. I was thinking of going frozenQ but it's so expensive.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Thanks for the quick answer.
> 
> This gauge is programmable, so you can programm the minimum and maximum temps and pressure.
> A flowmeter does not make sense if you use dual pumps in series. While this does double the pressure of two like pumps, it should be noted that it does not double your flow rate. Thats why to monitoring the pressure makes sense.


I agree with everything Darlene said... however, if you really want a pressure gauge from the automotive sector then you should be looking for a boost gauge for forced induction - which typically run from a few PSI to lower double digits (around 0.3 to 3.5 bar) which is much more inline with the kinds of pressure you're going to see in a watercooled rig. As to how you deal with the change from it being designed to measure pressure of AIR to WATER... well I will leave that up to you to figure out as I don't really understand the desire.

About the only reason I could see for even knowing the pressure of your loop would be if you wanted some kind of advance notice that your most restrictive block had become clogged... but you could simply check for a rise in average temperature of the component being cooled by that block (assumedly the CPU block but possibly a GPU).

Or you could (as she suggested) use a FLOW meter which would alert you to the same as a reduction in flow rate and would be meaningful during normal operation for pump timing as well.









Since the signal is fed electronically... you could 'fake' it if you knew the transmission rate/etc from a flow meter and actually make it look like it was doing something even if it wasnt... but you'd likely have to make a small PCB to handle the signal transformation for you:

EDIT: Found a prosport gauge that's similar design as your oil pressure gauge (but much better pressure levels):


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I agree with everything Darlene said... however, if you really want a pressure gauge from the automotive sector then you should be looking for a boost gauge for forced induction - which typically run from a few PSI to lower double digits (around 0.3 to 3.5 bar) which is much more inline with the kinds of pressure you're going to see in a watercooled rig. As to how you deal with the change from it being designed to measure pressure of AIR to WATER... well I will leave that up to you to figure out as I don't really understand the desire.
> 
> About the only reason I could see for even knowing the pressure of your loop would be if you wanted some kind of advance notice that your most restrictive block had become clogged... but you could simply check for a rise in average temperature of the component being cooled by that block (assumedly the CPU block but possibly a GPU).
> 
> Or you could (as she suggested) use a FLOW meter which would alert you to the same as a reduction in flow rate and would be meaningful during normal operation for pump timing as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the signal is fed electronically... you could 'fake' it if you knew the transmission rate/etc from a flow meter and actually make it look like it was doing something even if it wasnt... but you'd likely have to make a small PCB to handle the signal transformation for you:
> 
> EDIT: Found a prosport gauge that's similar design as your oil pressure gauge (but much better pressure levels):


Thank you very much for the Info


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I agree with everything Darlene said... however, if you really want a pressure gauge from the automotive sector then you should be looking for a boost gauge for forced induction - which typically run from a few PSI to lower double digits (around 0.3 to 3.5 bar) which is much more inline with the kinds of pressure you're going to see in a watercooled rig. As to how you deal with the change from it being designed to measure pressure of AIR to WATER... well I will leave that up to you to figure out as I don't really understand the desire.
> 
> About the only reason I could see for even knowing the pressure of your loop would be if you wanted some kind of advance notice that your most restrictive block had become clogged... but you could simply check for a rise in average temperature of the component being cooled by that block (assumedly the CPU block but possibly a GPU).
> 
> Or you could (as she suggested) use a FLOW meter which would alert you to the same as a reduction in flow rate and would be meaningful during normal operation for pump timing as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the signal is fed electronically... you could 'fake' it if you knew the transmission rate/etc from a flow meter and actually make it look like it was doing something even if it wasnt... but you'd likely have to make a small PCB to handle the signal transformation for you:
> 
> EDIT: Found a prosport gauge that's similar design as your oil pressure gauge (but much better pressure levels):


Still has the same problems Diva mentioned,even with dual pumps you wouldnt even fill the first bar....

Pressure and flow are pretty irrelevant tbh. If you are concerned about pump fail then hook the RPM lead to the CPU fan header....if the pump shows zero RPM then the rig shuts down.

You need a watertemp sensor above all,not a pressure sensor.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Interesting. I'll give it a try myself eventually when I finally get my loop assembled. I was thinking of throwing in silver booster as well. What kind of reservoir are you using. I was thinking of going frozenQ but it's so expensive.


I didn't know you could use the Silver Booster with the clear UV coolants, or that it would work. It's an EK XRes 140 Revo D5 PWM. Everything in my loop is EK, apart from the rads. Good luck with your build.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still has the same problems Diva mentioned,even with dual pumps you wouldnt even fill the first bar....
> 
> Pressure and flow are pretty irrelevant tbh. If you are concerned about pump fail then hook the RPM lead to the CPU fan header....if the pump shows zero RPM then the rig shuts down.
> 
> You need a watertemp sensor above all,not a pressure sensor.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Thanks for the quick answer.
> 
> This gauge is programmable, so you can programm the minimum and maximum temps and pressure.
> A flowmeter does not make sense if you use dual pumps in series. While this does double the pressure of two like pumps, it should be noted that it does not double your flow rate. Thats why to monitoring the pressure makes sense.


Even then if the loop heated up significantly the thermal expansion would lead to higher pressures assuming the loop is completely sealed, which would give false readings that could be interpreted as a restrictive loop.
Assuming that the pump you are going to be using will pump a maximum head of 4m.
Then the maximum pressure would be 5.88psi @ 0Gph or approximately11.76psi if using dual series pumps assuming the pumps were running maximum rpm with 100% restriction.
In real life you are probably going to see more like 2psi or less without taking into account thermal expansion because of the low restrictions of most water blocks have that will allow a reasonable amount of flow.


----------



## Alperen62002

The idea sounds interesting to me. But you proved me it fails in practice.

My D5 pumps are connected to WaterPump Connection with Y-Splitter and my fans are connected to CPU_FAN(Fans from 420mm Rad) and CPU_OPT (Fans from 280mm Rad).

They are all controlled by the Water Temperatur Sensors

How can I see (which tool can I use) without connecting 2 pumps in different ports when one pump fails?


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ermmmmmm, NO . . .
> 
> Read the specs in the pic again . . .
> 
> 
> 
> The alarm points are programmable, not the ranges:
> 
> From the specs:
> 
> Temp range: 49 to 138 C
> 
> Pressure range; 0 to 145psi
> 
> Temps in a liquid cooled PC typically run in the 30's to low 40's C
> 
> The pressure you may be able to use the lowest, and usually least accurate, 8 to10% of the range, but it's still flow, regardless of how many pumps you have, that's the more meaningful quantity to know.
> 
> Set the pump speed to where you get about 1 to 1.25GPM, and leave it there.
> 
> If pressure really meant anything, you'd have to think that by now, with as many experienced builders as have produced so many well engineered builds as these pages testify to, that at least one of them might have let that cat out of the bag somewhere along the line.
> 
> Now you've come along and spilled the secret . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the only question I have left, is if you have all this knowledge, why did you even ask the question in the first place?
> 
> Rather puzzled,
> 
> Darlene


Sorry but you missunderstood. I just want to monitoring the pressure if one pump fails when I operate two pumps in series. I did not mean "the pressure means everything". don't be








I asked if it is possible or not. Now I know that was a bad idea from me. But not "idiotic"
lets forget it


----------



## greg1184

What is a good pump reservoir combo that you guys recommend that I can mount to a 140 front radiator and that can potentially fit on this:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/misc-brand-reservoirs-parts-accessories/singularity-computers-140mm-reservoir-backplate-black.html

I already have a d5 mcp655b but I am willing to replace it if I need to.


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> What is a good pump reservoir combo that you guys recommend that I can mount to a 140 front radiator and that can potentially fit on this:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/misc-brand-reservoirs-parts-accessories/singularity-computers-140mm-reservoir-backplate-black.html
> 
> I already have a d5 mcp655b but I am willing to replace it if I need to.


I have the Singularity Core. Any pump/res that has a res with an approximate diameter of 60mm (a standard across brands) will work with the Singularity res mounts. That includes the EK Revo line, Bitspower, XSPC, etc. I had the EK Revo D5 pump/res and it was great. Switched over to a separate pump/res, and the mount works fine with the Bitspower standalone res as well.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea sounds interesting to me. But you proved me it fails in practice.
> 
> My D5 pumps are connected to WaterPump Connection with Y-Splitter and my fans are connected to CPU_FAN(Fans from 420mm Rad) and CPU_OPT (Fans from 280mm Rad).
> 
> They are all controlled by the Water Temperatur Sensors
> 
> How can I see (which tool can I use) without connecting 2 pumps in different ports when one pump fails?


you either need to connect each pump separately to a fan header so you can read its rpm individually or you need a flow sensor OR with a flow sensor you will known the flow of your loop and if one pump dies out you will observe a big drop in flow if one fails.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ermmmmmm, NO . . .
> 
> Read the specs in the pic again . . .
> 
> 
> 
> The alarm points are programmable, not the ranges:
> 
> From the specs:
> 
> Temp range: 49 to 138 C
> 
> Pressure range; 0 to 145psi
> 
> Temps in a liquid cooled PC typically run in the 30's to low 40's C
> 
> The pressure you may be able to use the lowest, and usually least accurate, 8 to10% of the range, but it's still flow, regardless of how many pumps you have, that's the more meaningful quantity to know.
> 
> Set the pump speed to where you get about 1 to 1.25GPM, and leave it there.
> 
> If pressure really meant anything, you'd have to think that by now, with as many experienced builders as have produced so many well engineered builds as these pages testify to, that at least one of them might have let that cat out of the bag somewhere along the line.
> 
> Now you've come along and spilled the secret . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the only question I have left, is if you have all this knowledge, why did you even ask the question in the first place?
> 
> Rather puzzled,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry but you missunderstood. I just want to monitoring the pressure if one pump fails when I operate two pumps in series. I did not mean "the pressure means everything". don't be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked if it is possible or not. Now I know that was a bad idea from me. But not "idiotic"
> lets forget it
Click to expand...

No problem,

probably not the best word choice on my part . . . .

I'm not so sure that English is your first language, perhaps that contributed to how I understood your question and subsequent replies.

As long as you're now looking at alternative options, that's what's important going forward.

Darlene


----------



## Sem

im currently in the process of moving my system from a luxe to a SM8

i am thinking of changing out the red EK backplates for some nickel ones like the CPU block

do you think it will go well with this build or should i stay red


----------



## _Killswitch_

Well Sem, you already own red one's but you do have a lot of "red" in the system already so Nickel may off-set the red if you care about that sort of thing.

What I did with my Gunmetal STH10, my system had a lot black/grays and case is gunmetal. So for my sleeving i added a baby blue color too offset all the mono colors and if I do Watercooling coolant will be some form of baby blue.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still has the same problems Diva mentioned,even with dual pumps you wouldnt even fill the first bar....
> 
> Pressure and flow are pretty irrelevant tbh. If you are concerned about pump fail then hook the RPM lead to the CPU fan header....if the pump shows zero RPM then the rig shuts down.
> 
> You need a watertemp sensor above all,not a pressure sensor.


Really? Each bar on that gauge is 1psi... I realize it's academic at this point but I was thinking the head pressure on a single DDC pump was over 5psi at least (actually thought it was like 7 or 8). Guess i need to brush up on pump specs...

I assumed he was wanting the "autosport" LOOK more than actually being concerned about knowing the exact pressure - oh well.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Sorry but you missunderstood. I just want to monitoring the pressure if one pump fails when I operate two pumps in series. I did not mean "the pressure means everything". don't be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked if it is possible or not. Now I know that was a bad idea from me. But not "idiotic"
> lets forget it


The other day I went to a LAN party and everything was OK till about 5 min after boot my computer shut down thought that was strange so rebooted it and it got to windows and I got an error CPU temp error and shut down again.
Problem; I had forgot to plug in my secondary power cord that runs 24v to the pump, plugged it in no problems.
Chances are you will have a Over temp shut down incorporated into your CPU I am on an old 3770K back in the day they would just fry.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> I have the Singularity Core. Any pump/res that has a res with an approximate diameter of 60mm (a standard across brands) will work with the Singularity res mounts. That includes the EK Revo line, Bitspower, XSPC, etc. I had the EK Revo D5 pump/res and it was great. Switched over to a separate pump/res, and the mount works fine with the Bitspower standalone res as well.


I ordered the XSPC Photon 170 D5 combo. Thanks for the information.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> The other day I went to a LAN party and everything was OK till about 5 min after boot my computer shut down thought that was strange so rebooted it and it got to windows and I got an error CPU temp error and shut down again.
> Problem; I had forgot to plug in my secondary power cord that runs 24v to the pump, plugged it in no problems.
> Chances are you will have a Over temp shut down incorporated into your CPU I am on an old 3770K back in the day they would just fry.


His concern is not knowing if one of his two pumps fail. There would still be circulation on one pump, just less pressure. That's what the pressure gauge is for. I think it's a good idea to explore, and could even look cool.

Glad to hear you didn't fry your cpu though.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> His concern is not knowing if one of his two pumps fail. There would still be circulation on one pump, just less pressure. That's what the pressure gauge is for. I think it's a good idea to explore, and could even look cool.
> 
> Glad to hear you didn't fry your cpu though.


That is what I mean. Thanks man. Oufff... My english is very bad. Sorry about that.


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> That is what I mean. Thanks man. Oufff... My english is very bad. Sorry about that.


https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/KODIAK-Digital-Pressure-Gauge-WP6090542/_/N-bd5?fromPidp=true&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/45MU04_AS01?$smthumb$webparentimage$
Then you would just need a female 1/4 npt to g 1/4 fitting. Coolance has a male g 1/4 to female 1/4 npt. http://koolance.com/threading-adapter-g-1-4-male-to-npt-1-4-female-stainless-steel


----------



## aaronstransam

Dont know why grainger link doesnt work but they have a good selection of digital pressure gauges but most run on a 9v battery


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> His concern is not knowing if one of his two pumps fail. There would still be circulation on one pump, just less pressure. That's what the pressure gauge is for. I think it's a good idea to explore, and could even look cool.
> 
> Glad to hear you didn't fry your cpu though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> That is what I mean. Thanks man. Oufff... My english is very bad. Sorry about that.


Thanks.








PWM fan monitor would do the same job assuming your pump has a PWM output.
I used to have my pump PWM signal plugged into my CPU header but I would often get low CPU fan error just to find in Bios that it was running higher than the threshold for CPU fan error.
The reliability of D5s makes me live dangerously and let a CPU overtemp shutdown warn me of a pump problem


----------



## Trestles126

Just upgraded my s8 to sli 980tis from sli 780s what a huge difference 3D mark score doubled and can play most everything maxed out super happy with the cost to performance gain. Went from all copper blocks to nickel gpus a ram and a solid clean nickel Cpu

Super close to pulling trigger on a th10a in all grey s8 is boring me and looking to fiddle wanted the sma8 but love the double wide magnums


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say swap out some components to another color and two tone it


----------



## Trestles126

Ya I've redone the s8 twice just not what I want want to go back to horizontal with more space for hds and rads. Ordered a pedastal but seeing if caselabs will let me cancel order and put towards th10a


----------



## DarthBaggins

Too bad the M8's are no longer in production


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> im currently in the process of moving my system from a luxe to a SM8
> 
> i am thinking of changing out the red EK backplates for some nickel ones like the CPU block
> 
> do you think it will go well with this build or should i stay red


Stay red. Looks great!


----------



## emsj86

Wanted to drop some porn of pics. Sorry if they have been seen before and for the phone pics. .


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Too bad the M8's are no longer in production


This. I just rebuilt mine for the third or fourth time and kept saying to myself "damn this is basically a perfect case!" just had it's 5th birthday, had (and lost) a pedestal in the process... and still just a perfect fit for everything even without it.


Not that subsequent Case Labs cases aren't great as well... have an SM8 and getting an SMA8 as well... but the M8 seems to be the perfect compromise between size and flexibility IMO.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Has anyone had temp issues with the poor seating that the Evo block has?

My supremacy MX was 5 degrees cooler at max temp under load, 65C max at hottest core and the Evo gets 70-72 degrees across all cores under load.

Thank you.


----------



## Trestles126

Do the m8s have the same diameter bottom as s8s? Do the pedastals work for a m8 and s8


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Has anyone had temp issues with the poor seating *that the Evo block has*?
> 
> My supremacy MX was 5 degrees cooler at max temp under load, 65C max at hottest core and the Evo gets 70-72 degrees across all cores under load.
> 
> Thank you.


Correction.

The poor seating that *your* evo has.

To answer your question, No.

TCO


----------



## greg1184

I been gathering my tools for my first acrylic build. What cutting kit do you all use? I ordered bitspower crystal 12mm tubing.

Does the monsoon 13mm cutting kit work with the 12mm model? I like the little miter box to keep cuts straight.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I been gathering my tools for my first acrylic build. What cutting kit do you all use? I ordered bitspower crystal 12mm tubing.
> 
> Does the monsoon 13mm cutting kit work with the 12mm model? I like the little miter box to keep cuts straight.


I use a small hacksaw and sandpaper. Ive cut all my 12mm bits tubing with that.

TCO


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I use a small hacksaw and sandpaper. Ive cut all my 12mm bits tubing with that.
> 
> TCO


.

Cool. Do you need a reamer for the fittings? I'll be using matching bitspower fittings.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Correction.
> 
> The poor seating that *your* evo has.
> 
> To answer your question, No.
> 
> TCO


The reviewer at Xtreme Rigs seemed to have the same issue as I am.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I been gathering my tools for my first acrylic build. What cutting kit do you all use? I ordered bitspower crystal 12mm tubing.
> 
> Does the monsoon 13mm cutting kit work with the 12mm model? I like the little miter box to keep cuts straight.


It will be a bit loose.

I use this:










&



and Finally this



If needed Sand paper.


----------



## eucalyptus

Hmm, I am just brain storming right now for a new project.

What if, I told you, I wanted to cool both sides of an HDD?









There are only mounts on one side, 4 screw holes. So how do I mount the other one? Glue?

Looking at the Bitspower blocks, seems to be the only one who makes full acrylic.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/17144/ex-blc-1333.jpg/ex-blc-1333/Bitspower_HDD_Acrylic_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clear_BP-HDS350AC-CL.html


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Has anyone had temp issues with the poor seating that the Evo block has?
> 
> My supremacy MX was 5 degrees cooler at max temp under load, 65C max at hottest core and the Evo gets 70-72 degrees across all cores under load.
> 
> Thank you.


"Poor seating" would imply that you can push on it and improve the temps. I know that the restriction is different so you may have to change the flow rate to get the same temps, especially if you didn't use the same jetplates. Have you tried reapplying the TIM? Did you change the blocks orientation by chance? I have had no issues with my EVO after many remounts, but I have never used the MX. Hope you figure out the discrepancy.


----------



## Trestles126

I use a golf club shaft holder ( for doing re gripping and shafting) I put that and the tube lightly in vice and use the flat edge as a guide with a hack saw. U can buy most of the stuff the chambering tool/ hacksaw at harbor freight for a few bucks.

http://hobokengolf.com/opencart/image/cache/data/oldpics/CGP-90027-1200x1200.jpg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I been gathering my tools for my first acrylic build. What cutting kit do you all use? I ordered bitspower crystal 12mm tubing.
> 
> Does the monsoon 13mm cutting kit work with the 12mm model? I like the little miter box to keep cuts straight.


----------



## Mega Man

Not that I know of, but spec ate in the site


----------



## Mega Man

does anyone else find this ironic ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Efnita*
> 
> Seems some vendors are selling fake Barrow products now in China. There is a guide on the Barrow webshop on Taobao that explains how to distinguish real from fake. If you are concerned the fittings you buy on aliexpress or Taobao are imitations have a look at that page here


the rip off, is getting ripped off XD


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does anyone else find this ironic ?
> the rip off, is getting ripped off XD


LOL! I do find that somewhat ironic. Is it also ironic that I prefer the ripoff fittings for the most part to the "authentic" ones? (OK it's not ironic, but it _is_ coincidental!)

I swear I would pay EXTRA over the ******ed markup that Bitspower charges to buy fittings from them _without any branding at all_









I understand the fact that our culture is such (for the most part at least) that branding is as important to some as function - if not moreso. I just wish there were more options for us that feel the opposite - like cars, clothes, and computer accessories that don't include unpaid advertising 'contracts'.

I'm old enough to remember when cable TV didn't have advertising - because you _paid for it_, and no one would have it they weren't getting advertisement-free entertainment... fast forward 35 years and it's a wonder products haven't started requiring you to get the logo tattooed on your forehead as part of the purchase.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> LOL! I do find that somewhat ironic. Is it also ironic that I prefer the ripoff fittings for the most part to the "authentic" ones? (OK it's not ironic, but it _is_ coincidental!)


You want IRONY...? Surprised no one has noticed that the 'rip off' fittings are actually closer to the Bitspower fittings that Barrow ripped off in the first place haha! Maybe it's Bitspower themselves getting back at them...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> You want IRONY...? Surprised no one has noticed that the 'rip off' fittings are actually closer to the Bitspower fittings that Barrow ripped off in the first place haha! Maybe it's Bitspower themselves getting back at them...


I swear I was thinking this as soon as I read Efnita's post haha


----------



## AllGamer

I'm surprised people haven't noticed them before

The moment I saw Barrow fittings, I noticed they are like Bitspower clones, most of them are nearly identical, just with poorer quality than Bitspower.

I know Bitspower is over priced, but I rather pay more for quality product than for a low tier product like Barrow.

it reminds me of Toyota (Barrow) vs. Lexus (Bitspower)

Heck, Barrow might as well be Bitspower themselves selling the Q2 products









At least EK they properly list their bad quality fittings as Q2, EK could have easily created a new line of fittings for the Q2 products and called it EQ2


----------



## X-Nine

BP fittings aren't overpriced. I've built with dozens of their fittings through lots of builds and they've always been the gold standard as far as fittings go. Their fit and finish is amazing. As far as the logo complaints, buy some rubbing alcohol and remove them. Not that hard. I do like Monsoon as well. Even if Barrow gave me hundreds of free fittings I wouldn't use them on principle alone.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> BP fittings aren't overpriced. I've built with dozens of their fittings through lots of builds and they've always been the gold standard as far as fittings go. Their fit and finish is amazing. As far as the logo complaints, buy some rubbing alcohol and remove them. Not that hard. I do like Monsoon as well. *Even if Barrow gave me hundreds of free fittings I wouldn't use them on principle alone.*


Cuz hardware reps.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> BP fittings aren't overpriced. I've built with dozens of their fittings through lots of builds and they've always been the gold standard as far as fittings go. Their fit and finish is amazing. As far as the logo complaints, buy some rubbing alcohol and remove them. Not that hard. I do like Monsoon as well. Even if Barrow gave me hundreds of free fittings I wouldn't use them on principle alone.


My goodness rubbing alcohol will take the logo off? Gotta be kidding me no one else has noted that on here. Going to try it right now.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I'm surprised people haven't noticed them before
> 
> The moment I saw Barrow fittings, I noticed they are like Bitspower clones, most of them are nearly identical, just with poorer quality than Bitspower.
> 
> I know Bitspower is over priced, but I rather pay more for quality product than for a low tier product like Barrow.
> 
> it reminds me of Toyota (Barrow) vs. Lexus (Bitspower)
> 
> Heck, Barrow might as well be Bitspower themselves selling the Q2 products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least EK they properly list their bad quality fittings as Q2, EK could have easily created a new line of fittings for the Q2 products and called it EQ2


Barrow fittings are still very good, I have an entire build with Barrow fittings with zero issues. Their just as good as bitspower. Allot of times your just paying for the name.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Barrow fittings are still very good, I have an entire build with Barrow fittings with zero issues. Their just as good as bitspower. Allot of times your just paying for the name.


That's true, that's why I mentioned Bitspower is overpriced, it's because of their name, their brand, it comes with a certain degree of good quality "guaranteed"

Barrow are relatively "new" to the market, it'll take some time before they build enough trust for their products.

That's why I'm biased towards EK products, they are very well priced for their quality and brand, it's well balanced in the middle, and obviously that's the goal.
Unfortunately EK doesn't have a lot of choices in regards to fittings and colours.

Bitspower have everything you can ever hope for, even the most weird fittings other brands don't even make or carry, yet very useful., if you are willing to pay a little extra.... which I did







pay the premium for its name.


----------



## catbuster

Bitspower not overpriced?







check eu prices haha


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> BP fittings aren't overpriced. I've built with dozens of their fittings through lots of builds and they've always been the gold standard as far as fittings go. Their fit and finish is amazing. As far as the logo complaints, buy some rubbing alcohol and remove them. Not that hard. I do like Monsoon as well. *Even if Barrow gave me hundreds of free fittings I wouldn't use them on principle alone.*
> 
> 
> 
> Cuz hardware reps.
Click to expand...

I actually pay for all of my gear. I've eaten nothing but Ramen and Little Juan burritos before to be able to afford a build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> BP fittings aren't overpriced. I've built with dozens of their fittings through lots of builds and they've always been the gold standard as far as fittings go. Their fit and finish is amazing. As far as the logo complaints, buy some rubbing alcohol and remove them. Not that hard. I do like Monsoon as well. Even if Barrow gave me hundreds of free fittings I wouldn't use them on principle alone.
> 
> 
> 
> My goodness rubbing alcohol will take the logo off? Gotta be kidding me no one else has noted that on here. Going to try it right now.
Click to expand...

I don't see why it wouldn't unless it's laser engraved, which they're not. Probably silk screened or some such. Goo gone might work too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Bitspower not overpriced?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check eu prices haha


What ISN'T overpriced in the EU, though? You guys get gouged even though you're closer to 98% of the world's manufacturing. You have import fees, VAT, all sorts of wonky taxes on top of that.


----------



## Killa Cam

Both ek and bitspower suck.

Watercool heatkiller > ek
Barrow > bitspower

See, i can play that game too.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Bitspower not overpriced?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check eu prices haha
> 
> 
> 
> What ISN'T overpriced in the EU, though? You guys get *gouged willingly taxed* even though you're closer to 98% of the world's manufacturing. You have import fees, VAT, all sorts of wonky taxes on top of that.
Click to expand...

fixed for you


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Both ek and bitspower suck.
> 
> Watercool heatkiller > ek
> Barrow > bitspower
> 
> See, i can play that game too.


yes, yes, we get your point.

everyone has their own preferences.

I know I'm personally biased towards EK and Bitspower.

Monsoon is another I like, but with some reservation, I find them a bit more over priced than Bitspower, but in the case of Monsoon it's "_worth it_" as they can be customized further.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> BP fittings aren't overpriced. I've built with dozens of their fittings through lots of builds and they've always been the gold standard as far as fittings go. Their fit and finish is amazing. As far as the logo complaints, buy some rubbing alcohol and remove them. Not that hard. I do like Monsoon as well. Even if Barrow gave me hundreds of free fittings I wouldn't use them on principle alone.


The logo is laser etched thru the powdercoat to metal,its not printed on. It doesnt rub off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fixed for you


Nothing willing about it.


----------



## Mega Man

*slight correction, most are willing- IE some who will not be named in other threads who have gone through a minimum of 6-9 990fxa ( AMD ) boards, as he returns them with "problems" when he a- damaged them from user error ( accidental/oc/intentional ) or b- just doesn't want them and wants a new shiny board that just came out . ( the increase in price, is in part due to making the shop accept returns for up to 2 years from date of purchase for electronics, and he is a perfect example of why the increase in price is necessary )

now again, i do not believe it was you who wanted or does the above, but plenty do


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> BP fittings aren't overpriced. I've built with dozens of their fittings through lots of builds and they've always been the gold standard as far as fittings go. Their fit and finish is amazing. As far as the logo complaints, buy some rubbing alcohol and remove them. Not that hard. I do like Monsoon as well. Even if Barrow gave me hundreds of free fittings I wouldn't use them on principle alone.
> 
> 
> 
> The logo is laser etched thru the powdercoat to metal,its not printed on. It doesnt rub off.
Click to expand...

Well slap me in the the face and call me Sally! Or salty... I could go for some chips right about now...

Well, I guess that sucks, but I haven't ever cared about the logo, honestly. Perhaps I'm in the minority in that regard.


----------



## Mega Man

they make this thing..... called paint/perm marker ect- now it voids your warranty but come on, removing the logo wouldnt ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Well slap me in the the face and call me Sally! Or salty... I could go for some chips right about now...
> 
> Well, I guess that sucks, but I haven't ever cared about the logo, honestly. Perhaps I'm in the minority in that regard.


I only realized after rubbing the actual black off........


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Well slap me in the the face and call me Sally! Or salty... I could go for some chips right about now...
> 
> Well, I guess that sucks, but I haven't ever cared about the logo, honestly. Perhaps I'm in the minority in that regard.
> 
> 
> 
> I only realized after rubbing the actual black off........
Click to expand...

Well, if there's anybody who's tried it, it would be you! Speaking of which, I've yet to monkey with EK's fittings. Perhaps for Becky's build I'll try them. I'm thinking a Lime BH4 with a custom elephant-designed cutout for the windows, Green MDPCX sleeve and my old (but still amazing) MIPS Iceforce block....


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> it reminds me of Toyota (Barrow) vs. Lexus (Bitspower)


Is your Toyota v Lexus example a way of saying that Bitspower make Barrow because Toyota make Lexus ("_Lexus is the luxury vehicle division of Japanese automaker Toyota_") ...

... or ...

... are you trying to say that Barrow are the luxury fittings division of Bitspower?


----------



## Mega Man

Supposedly they do not make one another


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Is your Toyota v Lexus example a way of saying that Bitspower make Barrow because Toyota make Lexus ("_Lexus is the luxury vehicle division of Japanese automaker Toyota_") ...
> 
> ... or ...
> 
> ... are you trying to say that Barrow are the luxury fittings division of Bitspower?


hmm... neither, yes I know what I said kinda of gets confusing when you put it in this context.

I was trying to compare quality level, Barrow is like Toyota, and Bitspower is like Lexus.
of course they are not the same company, while Toyota and Lexus are the same company.


----------



## Fyrwulf

I think a more apt comparison might be that Barrow is a Corvette and Bitspower is a Ferrari.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> I think a more apt comparison might be that Barrow is a Corvette kia and Bitspower is a Ferrari.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed for you
Click to expand...

edited to correct version


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah um no Mega. BP is more like a Porsche Carrera than a KIA. Their blocks on the other hand...









Barrows getting punked at their own game is priceless.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

whoops, did that on a phone.......

was supposed to be reversed....

see below for corrected statement
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> I think a more apt comparison might be that Barrow is a Corvette kia and Bitspower is a Ferrari.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed for you
Click to expand...


----------



## catbuster

Question is do people bashing barrow for quallity used both barrow and bistpower so they can compare it?







All know bitspower is heavily overpriced without really offering anything premium like quaillity or anything else.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Question is do people bashing barrow for quallity used both barrow and bistpower so they can compare it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All know bitspower is heavily overpriced without really offering anything premium like quaillity or anything else.


For Euros? Yeah BP is likely overpriced. Don't know. I don't live in the Eu but your VAT and exchange rates differ for various reasons.









For us here in the States they are indeed expensive, but well worth it. I'd love to get them without logo embellishments but I won't complain so long as their quality is a cut above.









Although I have heard from members here their Whites are flaky. No pun intended. The paint seems to flake. Likely due to too thick a coating being applied. White is the hardest color to paint on a color surface, so it makes sense to me that those fittings would require an extra coat applied to brass fittings. Exacting tolerances in the machining process probably makes a perfect alignment at the thread nie to impossible.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

I have Barrow and Monsoon fittings in my build. I haven't had any problems with Barrow or Monsoon ... I didn't like the Monsoon 90° ... and I wasn't going to pay the Bitspower extra $ ... hence the Barrow. I have made extensive use of Barrow extensions







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Question is do people bashing barrow for quallity used both barrow and bistpower so they can compare it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All know bitspower is heavily overpriced without really offering anything premium like quaillity or anything else.


This.

Twice the price for a gold dragon? Nah,I will pass on that.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Twice the price for a gold dragon? Nah,I will pass on that.


Exactly. And that's my other problem... the GOLD dragon/logos. The only Barrow fittings I've tried are the compression for hard tube and they are actually superior IMO to the BP - though both work perfectly fine. However, those are NOT a 'ripoff' of BP at all, it's a totally different design (and no logos at all).

Part of the 'cloning' comes from the choice of using green o-rings with black fittings as this was the (confusing to myself) color scheme that BP originally chose - so going with that over a simple black o-ring would have caused them to be less identifiable as 'clones'.

On the other hand, all fittings are largely designed by functional convention and not exclusive to a particular brand - so it's not surprising that there would be a ton of "copies" as the market expands to allow more companies to occupy it.

Fun trick... figure out how "different" a design of a fitting you can pull off in Sketch-Up for making a tight transfer of a G1/4 threaded end (which can't change) to a compression or push-fit of a fixed OD/ID on the opposite side... without it just looking stupid that is.

For the most part the differences are just what is seen currently - slightly less chamfer in the elbow transitions, slightly more or less knurling on the rotary portions, and that's about it. Now as far as Barrow using the green o-rings and a dragon logo that's barely different than BP... that's a ripoff without any argument. But maybe the Barrow dragon *will come off with solvent before the paint does*... and if that's the case then I'll give them all my business (though I'm guessing their paint is even cheaper and will come off first!).


----------



## Bogga

I needed four 90 degree adapters and was unsure if I would receive barrow versions in time for completing my build. So for you US people I can tell you that these cost me a total of 120$ with shipment...



Two white ones and two black ones, the white ones cost more...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Been scoring some good deals on left over Bitspower Fittings in the marketplace or from Users on OCN.

So that has been really nice in terms of getting something white from Bitspower. They are extremely expensive.

TCO


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I needed four 90 degree adapters and was unsure if I would receive barrow versions in time for completing my build. So for you US people I can tell you that these cost me a total of 120$ with shipment...
> 
> 
> 
> Two white ones and two black ones, the white ones cost more...


Yeah, see, over here that would have cost about $50 shipped. Not trying to rub it in, just saying they aren't as expensive to us.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Yeah, see, over here that would have cost about $50 shipped. Not trying to rub it in, just saying they aren't as expensive to us.


Ouch... that's a huge difference. I've got nothing bad to say about BP... can't really say anything since I still haven't tried any of their products. But as you can see the prices over here tends to sky rocket and I wouldn't be able to even consider water cooling if I had to go all BP.


----------



## prznar1

Yo guys, anyone knows what mounting holes spacing is on gtx 1050 ti? Im thinking about replacing my old 660 and wonder if my core block will fit.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Yo guys, anyone knows what mounting holes spacing is on gtx 1050 ti? Im thinking about replacing my old 660 and wonder if my core block will fit.


A bit off topic and out of curiosity... why a 1050Ti? You get close to twice the performance for less money if you were to find a used 970


----------



## prznar1

Want to buy eco friendy low power gpu









Well. Ive digged the web in search for used 970 just to check. People are selling 2 years old cards for higher price than 1060 3gb in Poland. Derp.


----------



## 7he5tig

Hey guys, just finished my first custom loop. Not sure if this is the right place to post this (I don't see any new build pics being posted around here) but anyway...



Full album and spec list is here: http://imgur.com/gallery/tGKsc

Feedback is really appreciated


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7he5tig*
> 
> Hey guys, just finished my first custom loop. Not sure if this is the right place to post this (I don't see any new build pics being posted around here) but anyway...
> 
> 
> 
> Full album and spec list is here: http://imgur.com/gallery/tGKsc
> 
> Feedback is really appreciated


I like what I see








how's the temperature when it's running full power?


----------



## 7he5tig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I like what I see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how's the temperature when it's running full power?


So I ran stress tests on the GPUs and CPU.

The maximum temp the GPUs reached was 39°C, which completely blew my mind coming from the stock blower cooler. In games they run in the mid to high 30s.

The CPU, however, runs fairly warm because it's running at 1.33v (4.8GHz). Highest it reaches in stress tests is about 70-80. In games it jumps around but is mostly somewhere in the 50s.

Idle temps for both GPUs and the CPU are about 29-30.

The GPU temperatures really hit me by surprise though. Especially because I enjoyed building and designing the loop and aesthetics so much that I totally forgot I was also doing this for low temperatures haha.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7he5tig*
> 
> So I ran stress tests on the GPUs and CPU.
> 
> The maximum temp the GPUs reached was 39°C, which completely blew my mind coming from the stock blower cooler.
> 
> The CPU, however, runs fairly warm because it's running at 1.33v (4.8GHz). Highest it reaches in stress tests is about 70-80.
> 
> Idle temps for both GPUs and the CPU are about 29-30.
> 
> The GPU temperatures really hit me by surprise though. Especially because I enjoyed building and designing the loop and aesthetics so much that I totally forgot I was also doing this for low temperatures haha.


There are three reasons for this high temps

(1) Skylake and ivy bridege are smaller then the older cpus. The 3rd and 4th Generation 22 nanometer Die, and the 5th and 6th Generation 14 nanometer Die have significantly less surface area in contact with the underside of the Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS), than the larger 2nd Generation 32 nanometer Die.

(2) 5th and 6th Generation processors have more transistors packed into a smaller Die than 2nd Generation processors.

(3) 5th and 6th Generation processors use Thermal Interface Material (TIM) between the top of the Die and the underside of the IHS. Solder, which has superior thermal transfer characteristics, was instead used in 2nd Generation and earlier processors, and is used in Intel's "High End Desktop Processors"
If you install Custom Loop Watercooling, don't be surprised if it is not cooler. The result will be the same.

I have these same temperatures with gtx 1080 (load 35°C) and i7 6700k (delidded).(Load 70-75°C @ 4.6ghz)
YOur temperatures and your build are very NICE


----------



## saint19

Hi guys...

Long time without post here and I am coming back for some help.

I received a new GPU yesterday, unfortunately my loved AMD Thuban core needs to go since can not handle the new GPU. I currently have a custom RL with EK waterblock, compression fittings, D5 vario pump, primochillFlex and a 360 radiator.

Now, since the GPU is too big, I need to reorganice all the system and for that I think to get the following this:



I plan to reuse radiator, pump, current fittings and fans.

The custom RL is just planned to use with CPU and will be used on a socket 1151 (6700k maybe)

Seems ok right? Or I am missing something...

Thanks


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Hi guys...
> 
> Long time without post here and I am coming back for some help.
> 
> I received a new GPU yesterday, unfortunately my loved AMD Thuban core needs to go since can not handle the new GPU. I currently have a custom RL with EK waterblock, compression fittings, D5 vario pump, primochillFlex and a 360 radiator.
> 
> Now, since the GPU is too big, I need to reorganice all the system and for that I think to get the following this:
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to reuse radiator, pump, current fittings and fans.
> 
> The custom RL is just planned to use with CPU and will be used on a socket 1151 (6700k maybe)
> 
> Seems ok right? Or I am missing something...
> 
> Thanks


@saint19 do not forget the coolant and drain valve


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> @saint19 do not forget the coolant and drain valve


I will use Distilled water.

Is the drain valve necessary? Which one do you recommend? I currently do not have one.


----------



## Ithanul

Drain valves are not necessary, but they make one's life easier when it comes time to drain a system.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Drain valves are not necessary, but they make one's life easier when it comes time to drain a system.


Alternative is a quick-disconnect for draining as well.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Alternative is a quick-disconnect for draining as well.


Co-incidentally, this is what I ended up with since I have my 360rad outside my FT03 case. It's an afterthought, but at least I don't have loose appendages inside the system.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Drain valves are not necessary, but they make one's life easier when it comes time to drain a system.


TCO


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> I will use Distilled water.
> 
> Is the drain valve necessary? Which one do you recommend? I currently do not have one.


@saint19 Do you want to use ONLY distilled water? I recommend to buy a clear concentrate coolant to protect from corrosion.
Drain valve is not necessary but how he says. It makes it easier. No matter which...


----------



## Ceadderman

Not trying to cause trouble over the Boarrow issue but here is how I see it and maybe this makes more clear...

Computer parts(watercooling and otherwise) come with different price points over different global price scales. Due to shipping, tax base, manufacturer location etc. You can't escape it.

So buy what you want or what you can afford if the cost of what you want is so insane that it's downright stoopid to buy.

Personally speaking I can get either and not shed a tear. But the price difference between the two is not so great that I would purchase Barrow over Bitspower and it's not just BP that Barrow has cloned. So please keep that in mind. Go to ModDIY and take a look around if you don't believe that. I won't twist anyones arm to purchase one over the other. That's something you have to look into your wants and needs and intestinal fortitude to figure out.

And Bneg, bro...









You yourself have personally invested a fortune into those Gold Dragons mate. Sorry if I read your last response incorrectly, but if people in the EU want to point fingers at anyone point them at Bneg too. Cause he hasn't invested enough for BP to consider selling at a reasonable price in your market. C'mon Bneg, buy some more Gold Dragons. You know you want to.







lol

Me I will stick with a known quality, and continue to invest(though not on B's scale) in BP.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Drain valves *ARE* necessary
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Fixed. You can cobble them together in so many ways sizes and shapes, how does this not register with people? Can you drill a hole and mount a cheap I/O port and fix in a drain tube connected to it with a fitting? For about $10 or less you can install a dead line and take your system to the bath to drain the bleedin thing. C'mon guys. It IS necessary.









Apologies B for the double post. I just got swept up in the moment.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alperen62002

For those people who interest in quick fittings.
We are using these fittings to temper our tools to 100-150°C with Oil in my factory
They are in very good quality. Better than bitspower or something else because of the strict quality control that industrial production requires.
They have g1/4 threads but a little bit longer.
Is it worth to build a loop with these fittings?


----------



## greg1184

Christmas has come early ?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> @saint19 Do you want to use ONLY distilled water? I recommend to buy a clear concentrate coolant to protect from corrosion.
> Drain valve is not necessary but how he says. It makes it easier. No matter which...


I built my current custom RL on 2010 and since that year I have used 1 of this things in the reservoir:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html?id=ANEgjGcV&mv_pc=956

Until now my loop is very clean and without problems. I will use the same one in the new loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Fixed. You can cobble them together in so many ways sizes and shapes, how does this not register with people? Can you drill a hole and mount a cheap I/O port and fix in a drain tube connected to it with a fitting? For about $10 or less you can install a dead line and take your system to the bath to drain the bleedin thing. C'mon guys. It IS necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies B for the double post. I just got swept up in the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ok, I think that is just for better practice...in 6 years with my current loop I have never drain my loop but well..$10 bucks is not much right?


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> I built my current custom RL on 2010 and since that year I have used 1 of this things in the reservoir:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html?id=ANEgjGcV&mv_pc=956
> 
> Until now my loop is very clean and without problems. I will use the same one in the new loop.
> Ok, I think that is just for better practice...in 6 years with my current loop I have never drain my loop but well..$10 bucks is not much right?


That's an another solution.








You just wrote only "destilled water".


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> For those people who interest in quick fittings.
> We are using these fittings to temper our tools to 100-150°C with Oil in my factory
> They are in very good quality. Better than bitspower or something else because of the strict quality control that industrial production requires.
> They have g1/4 threads but a little bit longer.
> Is it worth to build a loop with these fittings?


Do you have part numbers and manufacturer so I can try to source them in Canada, I'd be willing to give them a try for sure.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Do you have part numbers and manufacturer so I can try to source them in Canada, I'd be willing to give them a try for sure.


@axipher They have this online catalog with 1000 of couplings inthere.
http://www.luedecke.de/english/blaetterkatalog/Luedecke_Complete_Program_2016_2017/blaetterkatalog/index.html


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Do you have part numbers and manufacturer so I can try to source them in Canada, I'd be willing to give them a try for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> @axipher They have this online catalog with 1000 of couplings inthere.
> http://www.luedecke.de/english/blaetterkatalog/Luedecke_Complete_Program_2016_2017/blaetterkatalog/index.html
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks a bunch


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have Barrow and Monsoon fittings in my build. I haven't had any problems with Barrow or Monsoon ... I didn't like the Monsoon 90° ... and I wasn't going to pay the Bitspower extra $ ... hence the Barrow. I have made extensive use of Barrow extensions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


<3 Monsoon. I have their bay reservoir and fittings in my build. I do have their 90 degree fittings as well since I do like them. I also sent them an email asking if they could send me a drawing of the reservoir since I wanted to make a front bezel to match my case and they responded with a drawing the following day. I did have to get some BP fittings for areas where I needed extensions and small 90s for tight areas since Monsoon's are rather large. If I knew Barrow existed then I might have gotten them since I'm not fond of the logos. Luckily they don't show in my case since they're in a hard to see spot.


----------



## greg1184

Nice waterblock. Very easy to install. Phanteks provided some outstanding documentation. Kept the back plate.


----------



## Gabrielzm

PPC coupons

May your jack-o-lantern burn bright all through the night! Happy Halloween&#8230;hope it's the best one yet! No tricks here but, please check out all the new items in stock.

Also we are pleased to offer these Halloween treats for you:

Spend $50 and get 6% off: "HWEEN16-6"
Spend $150 and get 8% off: "HWEEN16-8"
Spend $500 or more and get 10% off: "HWEEN16-10"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from October 26th through November 1st 2016. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not trying to cause trouble over the Boarrow issue but here is how I see it and maybe this makes more clear...
> 
> Computer parts(watercooling and otherwise) come with different price points over different global price scales. Due to shipping, tax base, manufacturer location etc. You can't escape it.
> 
> So buy what you want or what you can afford if the cost of what you want is so insane that it's downright stoopid to buy.
> 
> Personally speaking I can get either and not shed a tear. But the price difference between the two is not so great that I would purchase Barrow over Bitspower and it's not just BP that Barrow has cloned. So please keep that in mind. Go to ModDIY and take a look around if you don't believe that. I won't twist anyones arm to purchase one over the other. That's something you have to look into your wants and needs and intestinal fortitude to figure out.
> 
> And Bneg, bro...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You yourself have personally invested a fortune into those Gold Dragons mate. Sorry if I read your last response incorrectly, but if people in the EU want to point fingers at anyone point them at Bneg too. Cause he hasn't invested enough for BP to consider selling at a reasonable price in your market. C'mon Bneg, buy some more Gold Dragons. You know you want to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> Me I will stick with a known quality, and continue to invest(though not on B's scale) in BP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sponsorships.

Paying for BP is something I have not done for years.
EK for me,even if I was paying,nowadays.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> PPC coupons
> 
> May your jack-o-lantern burn bright all through the night! Happy Halloween&#8230;hope it's the best one yet! No tricks here but, please check out all the new items in stock.
> 
> Also we are pleased to offer these Halloween treats for you:
> 
> Spend $50 and get 6% off: "HWEEN16-6"
> Spend $150 and get 8% off: "HWEEN16-8"
> Spend $500 or more and get 10% off: "HWEEN16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from October 26th through November 1st 2016. One coupon per order please.)


Where did you get that? I have 9 items in my cart that I am trying to not buy yet...xD


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sponsorships.
> 
> Paying for BP is something I have not done for years.
> EK for me,even if I was paying,nowadays.


How does one get sponsored? Any tips? Outside of the obvious learning how to put together a nice build lol.









EK are great, used them lots. Never used BP simply because in the UK it is harder to come by and expensive to import... but EK is very easy to get.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> TCO


You can build a system without one. My first water cool build had no drain valves or quick disconnects.

Just when it comes time to drain, it can be a bit tricky.

Though, I still advise anyone building now to use a drain valve or quick disconnect. Saves a whole lot of headache.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> You can build a system without one. My first water cool build had no drain valves or quick disconnects.
> 
> Just when it comes time to drain, it can be a bit tricky.
> 
> Though, I still advise anyone building now to use a drain valve or quick disconnect. Saves a whole lot of headache.


In my opinion when someone asks, I would always recommend a drain at the lowest point of the loop as building a loop without one isn't tricky, it's awful as you have no feasible way of draining the system without having to grab some sort of bowl, or holding a line closed while over a sink etc.

TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Where did you get that? I have 9 items in my cart that I am trying to not buy yet...xD


from the Devil / Saint himself








here http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1384175


----------



## jleslie246

What are the best 140mm fans for radiators now? Noise and pressure are most important to me.


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7he5tig*
> 
> Hey guys, just finished my first custom loop. Not sure if this is the right place to post this (I don't see any new build pics being posted around here) but anyway...
> 
> 
> 
> Full album and spec list is here: http://imgur.com/gallery/tGKsc
> 
> Feedback is really appreciated


Great build especially for a first

good job


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Twice the price for a gold dragon? Nah,I will pass on that.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly. And that's my other problem... the GOLD dragon/logos. The only Barrow fittings I've tried are the compression for hard tube and they are actually superior IMO to the BP - though both work perfectly fine. However, those are NOT a 'ripoff' of BP at all, it's a totally different design (and no logos at all).
> 
> Part of the 'cloning' comes from the choice of using green o-rings with black fittings as this was the (confusing to myself) color scheme that BP originally chose - so going with that over a simple black o-ring would have caused them to be less identifiable as 'clones'.
> 
> On the other hand, all fittings are largely designed by functional convention and not exclusive to a particular brand - so it's not surprising that there would be a ton of "copies" as the market expands to allow more companies to occupy it.
> 
> Fun trick... figure out how "different" a design of a fitting you can pull off in Sketch-Up for making a tight transfer of a G1/4 threaded end (which can't change) to a compression or push-fit of a fixed OD/ID on the opposite side... without it just looking stupid that is.
> 
> For the most part the differences are just what is seen currently - slightly less chamfer in the elbow transitions, slightly more or less knurling on the rotary portions, and that's about it. Now as far as Barrow using the green o-rings and a dragon logo that's barely different than BP... that's a ripoff without any argument. But maybe the Barrow dragon *will come off with solvent before the paint does*... and if that's the case then I'll give them all my business (though I'm guessing their paint is even cheaper and will come off first!).
Click to expand...

The only issue I have is the cloning.

I love competition. The more there is, the better off their is.

I would like to add I have never insulted anyone for using them, just the company themselves.

If they had done anything to differentiate themselves rather then cloning as they have I would be all for them. I would use them but stealing products is unforgivable, they are starting to be their own company now. But too little too late imo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> @saint19 do not forget the coolant and drain valve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will use Distilled water.
> 
> Is the drain valve necessary? Which one do you recommend? I currently do not have one.
Click to expand...

No they are not, but heavily reccomended. I prefer valves to qdc's as you can put a cap on the valve you have no redundancy on a qdc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> I will use Distilled water.
> 
> Is the drain valve necessary? Which one do you recommend? I currently do not have one.
> 
> 
> 
> @saint19 Do you want to use ONLY distilled water? I recommend to buy a clear concentrate coolant to protect from corrosion.
> Drain valve is not necessary but how he says. It makes it easier. No matter which...
Click to expand...

FYI new fad is anti corrosion anti..... scale (having memory fart atm )

Imo distilled plus biocide
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sponsorships.
> 
> Paying for BP is something I have not done for years.
> EK for me,even if I was paying,nowadays.
> 
> 
> 
> How does one get sponsored? Any tips? Outside of the obvious learning how to put together a nice build lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK are great, used them lots. Never used BP simply because in the UK it is harder to come by and expensive to import... but EK is very easy to get.
Click to expand...

Wait till your asked.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> What are the best 140mm fans for radiators now? Noise and pressure are most important to me.


Gentle typhoons with 120 to 140mm adapters


----------



## jleslie246

I have 4 GT's in my system. they move the most air by far! But will they really perform well with adapters?

Also, the added thickness could be an issue. And they are not so pretty imo.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes. Imo 140s are trash. But this is ONLY my OPINION

Afaik vardars are the closest we have in both 140s/120s in terms of silence and performance


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> @saint19 Do you want to use ONLY distilled water? I recommend to buy a clear concentrate coolant to protect from corrosion.
> Drain valve is not necessary but how he says. It makes it easier. No matter which...
> 
> 
> 
> I built my current custom RL on 2010 and since that year I have used 1 of this things in the reservoir:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html?id=ANEgjGcV&mv_pc=956
> 
> Until now my loop is very clean and without problems. I will use the same one in the new loop.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Fixed. You can cobble them together in so many ways sizes and shapes, how does this not register with people? Can you drill a hole and mount a cheap I/O port and fix in a drain tube connected to it with a fitting? For about $10 or less you can install a dead line and take your system to the bath to drain the bleedin thing. C'mon guys. It IS necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies B for the double post. I just got swept up in the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok, I think that is just for better practice...in 6 years with my current loop I have never drain my loop but well..$10 bucks is not much right?
Click to expand...

Compared to the cost of possible loss of components? Not much in the least. Simply adding a T at the pump and two fittings plus a length of tubing and a Fillport turned Drainport would make draining a simpler task that has no chance of losing costly components. It's the simplest design that I can think of on the relatively cheap.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not trying to cause trouble over the Boarrow issue but here is how I see it and maybe this makes more clear...
> 
> Computer parts(watercooling and otherwise) come with different price points over different global price scales. Due to shipping, tax base, manufacturer location etc. You can't escape it.
> 
> So buy what you want or what you can afford if the cost of what you want is so insane that it's downright stoopid to buy.
> 
> Personally speaking I can get either and not shed a tear. But the price difference between the two is not so great that I would purchase Barrow over Bitspower and it's not just BP that Barrow has cloned. So please keep that in mind. Go to ModDIY and take a look around if you don't believe that. I won't twist anyones arm to purchase one over the other. That's something you have to look into your wants and needs and intestinal fortitude to figure out.
> 
> And Bneg, bro...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You yourself have personally invested a fortune into those Gold Dragons mate. Sorry if I read your last response incorrectly, but if people in the EU want to point fingers at anyone point them at Bneg too. Cause he hasn't invested enough for BP to consider selling at a reasonable price in your market. C'mon Bneg, buy some more Gold Dragons. You know you want to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> Me I will stick with a known quality, and continue to invest(though not on B's scale) in BP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sponsorships.
> 
> Paying for BP is something I have not done for years.
> EK for me,even if I was paying,nowadays.
Click to expand...

True. But you make me a drooling simpleton every time you bust out one of your fitting compilation pics.









Sponsorships are given to those who responsibly rep products in creative ways that keep the market moving forward. I remember when BP only had 3 colors and a limited catalog of fittings. No shutoff valves. No Reservoir tube inserts, no snakes and only extensions and angle fittings. Now look at BP's catalog today. If only they could find a consistent vendor to peddle their wares in the EU, those prices would eventually come down to that of the prices in the US.









I only have a couple sponsors atm. But I hope to add to those sponsorships in the near future. Gotta start somewhere right?









~Ceadder


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> What are the best 140mm fans for radiators now? Noise and pressure are most important to me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Gentle typhoons with 120 to 140mm adapters


I'm okay with this idea. As long as you retain a good distance between the fan and the radiator.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes. Imo 140s are trash. But this is ONLY my OPINION
> 
> Afaik vardars are the closest we have in both 140s/120s in terms of silence and performance


I'm a little biased, because I am so well invested in them - but that's because I absolutely love the look, and performance of these..



Noiseblocker E-Loops

My 120mm fans do great and my newer 140mm fans are doing better than I anticipated.

I'd recommend these.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> In my opinion when someone asks, I would always recommend a drain at the lowest point of the loop as building a loop without one isn't tricky, it's awful as you have no feasible way of draining the system without having to grab some sort of bowl, or holding a line closed while over a sink etc.
> 
> TCO


No doubt, recommend one, but saying one is necessary is not absolutely true. It is more a convenience then a necessity.

Plus, there is ways to remove the loop without holding a case over a sink if it is not rigid build.

This was my first build's loop removed and about to be drained. Several years ago of course.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> How does one get sponsored? Any tips? Outside of the obvious learning how to put together a nice build lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK are great, used them lots. Never used BP simply because in the UK it is harder to come by and expensive to import... but EK is very easy to get.


Pretty sure this is the go to link on the subject, even though it is a bit dated.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Just a question, I am seeing a build up in my loop along my long runs and there is buildup in the coolant bottle (see below) ... ... Is this normal ?


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> A bit off topic and out of curiosity... why a 1050Ti? You get close to twice the performance for less money if you were to find a used 970


You got me convinced. First it will be easier for me to get palit 970 than dig the web in search of pcb shots of brand new cards.... Afterall i need a card with vrm heatsink and palit, even basic model from 970 lineup, has one. And i never had any issues with them. BTW all that talk about barrow fittings... i will use them in my rigid tubing system rebuild







price is intresting. 3 times cheaper than cheapest ek fittings.


----------



## Origondoo

Hi all,

need some advice on the issue I'm facing.
I build a new loop containing the following parts ( BP 250ml Res -> dual D5 (from Aqua Computer) with BP Top-> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> Aqua Computer high flow Sensor -> EK M8I Monoblock -> WaterCool 1080 GPU Block -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> BP 250ml Res).
Tubing (hard and norprene) used has at least 12mm (~0.5 inch) inner diameter. All fittings are from BP.
The rads have been cleaned properly including the chemical staff. Used liquid is Aqua Computer Double Protect Ultra.

Now to the issue I have: The flow rate I get is pretty low 140lph (~ 0.6 gpm) with both pumps running 100%. If I disable one or another pump the flow rate drops to ~0.4gpm.

Any idea what may cause the low flow rate or is it normal for a D5?


----------



## AllGamer

The white stuff at the bottom...

did you check if it is sand, or if it's a gooey substance?

what kind of cooling liquid did you use? Pastel base?

because that white powder looking stuff at the bottom of the bottle looks like pastel base particles.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Just a question, I am seeing a build up in my loop along my long runs and there is buildup in the coolant bottle (see below) ... ... Is this normal ?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> The white stuff at the bottom...
> 
> did you check if it is sand, or if it's a gooey substance?
> 
> what kind of cooling liquid did you use? Pastel base?
> 
> because that white powder looking stuff at the bottom of the bottle looks like pastel base particles.


Seems at least slightly gooey since it's defying gravity in that shot. Could be plasticizer or as AllGamer said - pastel particles - though they should have been dyed if that's the case I would think. Don't know for sure as I've only run white pastel... so naturally any 'dust' residue is white in that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> need some advice on the issue I'm facing.
> I build a new loop containing the following parts ( BP 250ml Res -> dual D5 (from Aqua Computer) with BP Top-> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> Aqua Computer high flow Sensor -> EK M8I Monoblock -> WaterCool 1080 GPU Block -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> BP 250ml Res).
> Tubing (hard and norprene) used has at least 12mm (~0.5 inch) inner diameter. All fittings are from BP.
> The rads have been cleaned properly including the chemical staff. Used liquid is Aqua Computer Double Protect Ultra.
> 
> Now to the issue I have: The flow rate I get is pretty low 140lph (~ 0.6 gpm) with both pumps running 100%. If I disable one or another pump the flow rate drops to ~0.4gpm.
> 
> Any idea what may cause the low flow rate or is it normal for a D5?


Seems like something is really restrictive - and it's definitely not those rads. Don't know about the monoblock and though somewhat restrictive the GPU block shouldn't be a huge problem. D5's are flow champions AFAIK so that definitely doesn't seem normal to me, but I've yet to use mine (DDC's in my other builds). If it's a new loop with new everything, it could be a manufacturing error on a block... since the usual culprits shouldn't be affecting you (plasticizer, coolant residue, etc.).

Are you sure the flow rate is being communicated properly... maybe you're actually moving plenty but the sensor isn't calibrated/transmitting the right value?

You have 1 more rad, but in this post he's supposedly getting 1.7GPM on similar setup:
Typical Flow Rates with Dual D5's

Seems less likely in your case as all are AC products...


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> need some advice on the issue I'm facing.
> I build a new loop containing the following parts ( BP 250ml Res -> dual D5 (from Aqua Computer) with BP Top-> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> Aqua Computer high flow Sensor -> EK M8I Monoblock -> WaterCool 1080 GPU Block -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> BP 250ml Res).
> Tubing (hard and norprene) used has at least 12mm (~0.5 inch) inner diameter. All fittings are from BP.
> The rads have been cleaned properly including the chemical staff. Used liquid is Aqua Computer Double Protect Ultra.
> 
> Now to the issue I have: The flow rate I get is pretty low 140lph (~ 0.6 gpm) with both pumps running 100%. If I disable one or another pump the flow rate drops to ~0.4gpm.
> 
> Any idea what may cause the low flow rate or is it normal for a D5?


What case fits all that?


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> What case fits all that?


CaseLabs S3 with pedestal


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> need some advice on the issue I'm facing.
> I build a new loop containing the following parts ( BP 250ml Res -> dual D5 (from Aqua Computer) with BP Top-> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> Aqua Computer high flow Sensor -> EK M8I Monoblock -> WaterCool 1080 GPU Block -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> BP 250ml Res).
> Tubing (hard and norprene) used has at least 12mm (~0.5 inch) inner diameter. All fittings are from BP.
> The rads have been cleaned properly including the chemical staff. Used liquid is Aqua Computer Double Protect Ultra.
> 
> Now to the issue I have: The flow rate I get is pretty low 140lph (~ 0.6 gpm) with both pumps running 100%. If I disable one or another pump the flow rate drops to ~0.4gpm.
> 
> Any idea what may cause the low flow rate or is it normal for a D5?


You should be getting around 4gpm on highest settings with a D5 (if I'm not mistaken). This would, to me, indicate that you've either got too little PSI in the loop or a blockage in one of the blocks somewhere. I'm no plumber or expert on the subject of pressure and flow rates, but that's what it sounds like.


----------



## saint19

So guys...

A drain valve for recommend? I was checking in PPCS but I am not sure if I am looking for the right thing,...


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> You should be getting around 4gpm on highest settings with a D5 (if I'm not mistaken). This would, to me, indicate that you've either got too little PSI in the loop or a blockage in one of the blocks somewhere. I'm no plumber or expert on the subject of pressure and flow rates, but that's what it sounds like.


Hmm will check for blockage in one of the blocks. At least it would be the only explanation.


----------



## Origondoo

I use the one from BP. Can't do anything wrong


----------



## apw63

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> need some advice on the issue I'm facing.
> I build a new loop containing the following parts ( BP 250ml Res -> dual D5 (from Aqua Computer) with BP Top-> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> Aqua Computer high flow Sensor -> EK M8I Monoblock -> WaterCool 1080 GPU Block -> AlphaCool UT60 280mm -> BP 250ml Res).
> Tubing (hard and norprene) used has at least 12mm (~0.5 inch) inner diameter. All fittings are from BP.
> The rads have been cleaned properly including the chemical staff. Used liquid is Aqua Computer Double Protect Ultra.
> 
> Now to the issue I have: The flow rate I get is pretty low 140lph (~ 0.6 gpm) with both pumps running 100%. If I disable one or another pump the flow rate drops to ~0.4gpm.
> 
> Any idea what may cause the low flow rate or is it normal for a D5?






I have a similar setup but in a MS8 with pedestal. Differences are I'm running 2 360 RADs and 1 240 with 2 DDC 35x. My DDCs are better suited for high restriction loops. My loop is very restrictive. You can look at my build log, its linked in in my sig. We may have similar routing and restrictive builds. I can only get with the pumps at 100% around 2 gpm. I have never used the D5 pumps so I'm not 100% sure how they would preform in a high restrictive loop. I do know DDC for high restriction D5s for high flow. My first though is your flow meter is not calibrated. Did you at select your tubing size in the setup tab? My second thought is your loop it to restrictive for your D5 pumps?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> 
> I have a similar setup but in a MS8 with pedestal. Differences are I'm running 2 360 RADs and 1 240 with 2 DDC 35x. My DDCs are better suited for high restriction loops. My loop is very restrictive. You can look at my build log, its linked in in my sig. We may have similar routing and restrictive builds. I can only get with the pumps at 100% around 2 gpm. I have never used the D5 pumps so I'm not 100% sure how they would preform in a high restrictive loop. I do know DDC for high restriction D5s for high flow. My first though is your flow meter is not calibrated. Did you at select your tubing size in the setup tab? My second thought is your loop it to restrictive for your D5 pumps?


2 GPM is the upper limit of the MPS 400 sensor. So if you are getting that reading from the sensor it might as well be above the 2 GPM figure. In any case 2 GPM is more than plenty and is very rare for any of ours loops to be able to pass that mark.

@Origondoo a couple of ideas: A partial block somewhere (in the blocks or a kinked tube); The flow reader is not reading properly or need calibration (which model you have? is this one? https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897 ? Are you using any inline filters?

edit - Good news folks. We do have now a good option for a more modern fan controller with PWM capability and not costing so much. Just stumble on it looking for the flow sensor: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3481


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> edit - Good news folks. We do have now a good option for a more modern fan controller with PWM capability and not costing so much. Just stumble on it looking for the flow sensor: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3481


Not news as the AQ6 has been out for years now... but yes it is great regardless. I presume you mean because it's $60-70 less than the version with the screen?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Not news as the AQ6 has been out for years now... but yes it is great regardless.


it is news since this is an AQ 6 LT (half the price of the AQ 6 and also with 4 pwm channels) instead of the 1 in the AQ 5 LT


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 2 GPM is the upper limit of the MPS 400 sensor. So if you are getting that reading from the sensor it might as well be above the 2 GPM figure. In any case 2 GPM is more than plenty and is very rare for any of ours loops to be able to pass that mark.
> 
> @Origondoo a couple of ideas: A partial block somewhere (in the blocks or a kinked tube); The flow reader is not reading properly or need calibration (which model you have? is this one? https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897 ? Are you using any inline filters?
> 
> edit - Good news folks. We do have now a good option for a more modern fan controller with PWM capability and not costing so much. Just stumble on it looking for the flow sensor: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3481


I use similar flow sensor as you linked, but the one w/o USB connection. https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294&XTCsid=ei4fha7v1508rm6ot1o6sk25lhav3uoc

The loop has no filters in it. That's why I'm thinking that there is an issue


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it is news since this is an AQ 6 LT (half the price of the AQ 6 and also with 4 pwm channels) instead of the 1 in the AQ 5 LT


Yes agreed. However, only half price vs. AQ 6 XT - it's ~66% of the cost of an AQ 6 Pro which to me is still a better deal.

However, I stand corrected... for those considering $155 too expensive vs. $99 then it is definitely news! They made the announcement last week but didn't have them on the site until yesterday or today I think... I still remember when they said they would NEVER make an AQ6 LT... guess they covered the R&D for this board now.

And for those that don't want a bay device and want to stick it in an hidden area... then it's definitely a great thing!


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> 
> I have a similar setup but in a MS8 with pedestal. Differences are I'm running 2 360 RADs and 1 240 with 2 DDC 35x. My DDCs are better suited for high restriction loops. My loop is very restrictive. You can look at my build log, its linked in in my sig. We may have similar routing and restrictive builds. I can only get with the pumps at 100% around 2 gpm. I have never used the D5 pumps so I'm not 100% sure how they would preform in a high restrictive loop. I do know DDC for high restriction D5s for high flow. My first though is your flow meter is not calibrated. Did you at select your tubing size in the setup tab? My second thought is your loop it to restrictive for your D5 pumps?
> 
> 
> 
> 2 GPM is the upper limit of the MPS 400 sensor. So if you are getting that reading from the sensor it might as well be above the 2 GPM figure. In any case 2 GPM is more than plenty and is very rare for any of ours loops to be able to pass that mark.
> 
> @Origondoo a couple of ideas: A partial block somewhere (in the blocks or a kinked tube); The flow reader is not reading properly or need calibration (which model you have? is this one? https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897 ? Are you using any inline filters?
> 
> edit - Good news folks. We do have now a good option for a more modern fan controller with PWM capability and not costing so much. Just stumble on it looking for the flow sensor: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3481
Click to expand...

Great that they came to their senses and released an LT version finally. But now I have a feeling the 7's are well under development....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Great that they came to their senses and released an LT version finally. But now I have a feeling the 7's are well under development....


I might be wrong...but Shoggy said tomorrow something is launching (aquaero thread)...My guess is that that something is the AQ7


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I might be wrong...but Shoggy said tomorrow something is launching (aquaero thread)...My guess is that that something is the AQ7


figures... I just got my 5lt all set up and properly cooled. Now there is a 6lt and possibly another!
Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 2 GPM is the upper limit of the MPS 400 sensor. So if you are getting that reading from the sensor it might as well be above the 2 GPM figure. In any case 2 GPM is more than plenty and is very rare for any of ours loops to be able to pass that mark.


Yes we normally run our systems around 1 to 1.5 gpm. My system runs between .85-1.25 gpm. My point was that with a high restriction system, and running pumps designed for high restriction systems. I can only push my system near the limitations of my flow meter not over. Origondoo system like mine is most likely a high restriction system. He is using pumps not designed for a high restrictive systems. Hes low flow results could be simply a lack of pumping power.


----------



## Origondoo

I think I found the bottle neck reason. It looks like a piece of some kind of fabrics...



But below the jet plate it looks clean


----------



## AllGamer

am I seeing right?









it looks like a piece of melted cable sleeve in there









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> I think I found the bottle neck reason. It looks like a piece of some kind of fabrics...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Yes we normally run our systems around 1 to 1.5 gpm. My system runs between .85-1.25 gpm. My point was that with a high restriction system, and running pumps designed for high restriction systems. I can only push my system near the limitations of my flow meter not over. Origondoo system like mine is most likely a high restriction system. He is using pumps not designed for a high restrictive systems. Hes low flow results could be simply a lack of pumping power.


Doubt it. two d5 is plenty of power to go beyond 0.6 GPM. The difference between DDC and D5 is not that great.Example, if you were to replace your pumps (DDC) with 2x d5 you would not observe a drop from 2 GPM to 0.6 GPM period...You can see the difference between the two pumps (individually not in pairs) in this graph from Martin´s page:



https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/tag/laing/

edit - @Origondoo, good, that probably explain it. With two d5 in series after you clean the block I would expect something between 1.3 to 1.7 GPM in your loop. Clean it and lets see how it goes it. Glad you found it.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> am I seeing right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it looks like a piece of melted cable sleeve in there


No it's more like paper towel fabrics typo...
Maybe some left over from cleaning


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I might be wrong...but Shoggy said tomorrow something is launching (aquaero thread)...My guess is that that something is the AQ7


Not necessarily.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not necessarily.


no...not necessarily. But one can guess or hope







But given your post I kind of feel like is not the AQ7 after all since the chances of you having inside information are good







pitty...I was hoping an AQ7 was coming...


----------



## Origondoo

So first test run says 1.1gpm or 255lph. Almost doubled the flow rate now.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> So first test run says 1.1gpm or 255lph. Almost doubled the flow rate now.


sounds like your issue has been resolved after removing that piece of papel tower stuck inside the loop.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> sounds like your issue has been resolved after removing that piece of papel tower stuck inside the loop.


indeed









an so another mystery has been solved


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Just a question, I am seeing a build up in my loop along my long runs and there is buildup in the coolant bottle (see below) ... ... Is this normal ?


That's just the nano particles separating. Shake it up and it should be just fine. The particles will also collect a bit around the fittings and blocks, its normal for pastel.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> That's just the nano particles separating. Shake it up and it should be just fine. The particles will also collect a bit around the fittings and blocks, its normal for pastel.


You know after seeing this picture all day, It could also be due to the ratio of Distilled to Pastel concentrate. If the ratio is off, wouldn't that make particles settle?

TCO


----------



## rathborne

Hi guys, I'm hoping to start assembling my first custom loop this weekend and am looking for the distilled water. My local car shop doesn't list distilled water on the website but it does have demineralised water.

Is this an acceptable substitute?

Sorry if the question has been asked before







.


----------



## intermission

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm hoping to start assembling my first custom loop this weekend and am looking for the distilled water. My local car shop doesn't list distilled water on the website but it does have demineralised water.
> 
> Is this an acceptable substitute?
> 
> Sorry if the question has been asked before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You shouldn't have to go to an automotive store to purchase distilled water. Any grocery store or pharmacy should have it in stock, at least in the U.S.A. they do.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

^^ He's from Australia. Good luck finding distilled water _anywhere_ in the 90% of the world.

Demineralised water is fine.


----------



## intermission

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> ^^ He's from Australia. Good luck finding distilled water _anywhere_ in the 90% of the world.
> 
> Demineralised water is fine.


So is distilled water a US thing?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> So is distilled water a US thing?


They have it in bulk like big 5 litre bottles for less than a Dollar, here in the UK we have plenty of De-Ionized water so I just use that, had zero issues. Its pretty much just battery top up water you can get from automotive stores.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> That's just the nano particles separating. Shake it up and it should be just fine. The particles will also collect a bit around the fittings and blocks, its normal for pastel.


just what i thought


----------



## MediaRocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They have it in bulk like big 5 litre bottles for less than a Dollar, here in the UK we have plenty of De-Ionized water so I just use that, had zero issues. Its pretty much just battery top up water you can get from automotive stores.


There is a distinct difference between Distilled and Deionized water, especially when used scientifically.

The main takeaway is deionized water is naturally corrosive. It has a pH of 7 out of the container but after exposure to atmosphere settles down to around 5.6 as it absorbs and dissolves CO2 producing H+ and HCO3- as byproducts making it more acidic.

As for how Deionized water will react in your loop? I can't say for sure. As mentioned previously it is corrosive and can become acidic. It will naturally want to steal free radical electrons which can cause plating erosion as well as pitting. Additionally, this makes it more likely to grow bacteria, fungi, and algae. Ideally, pH should be between 8 and 10 for cooling loops.

But that's just my knowledge and opinion. I would stay away from Di water even if "you've had no issues" because I know what it can do and does even if you can't see it immediately.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MediaRocker*
> 
> There is a distinct difference between Distilled and Deionized water, especially when used scientifically.
> 
> The main takeaway is deionized water is naturally corrosive. It has a pH of 7 out of the container but after exposure to atmosphere settles down to around 5.6 as it absorbs and dissolves CO2 producing H+ and HCO3- as byproducts making it more acidic.
> 
> As for how Deionized water will react in your loop? I can't say for sure. As mentioned previously it is corrosive and can become acidic. It will naturally want to steal free radical electrons which can cause plating erosion as well as pitting. Additionally, this makes it more likely to grow bacteria, fungi, and algae. Ideally, pH should be between 8 and 10 for cooling loops.
> 
> But that's just my knowledge and opinion. I would stay away from Di water even if "you've had no issues" because I know what it can do and does even if you can't see it immediately.


You may be right, I don't know, but in the UK I have not seen distilled anywhere. DI is everywhere though and dirt cheap, and most people I know who WC use it. But for all I know maybe this country is awash with corroding PC's full of fungi.


----------



## rathborne

Thanks for the advice guys (and that avatar is great @MediaRocker







). I finally got a chance to do some more googling and see that I'm not the first to struggle finding distilled water readily available down here







. Apparently Woolworths sells it in the laundry section or the hair products aisle. Is there something on the bottle I should be looking for right pH or mineral levels (ideally none but thought I'd check)?


----------



## Ceadderman

Whoa, Woolworth's still around? I thought those died out long ago.


















~Ceadder


----------



## MediaRocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> You may be right, I don't know, but in the UK I have not seen distilled anywhere. DI is everywhere though and dirt cheap, and most people I know who WC use it. But for all I know maybe this country is awash with corroding PC's full of fungi.


It's why I say that I can't be absolute.

For all I know, you could be fine, I haven't seen any issues personally. I just stay away from Di water when possible based on my lab experience.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys (and that avatar is great @MediaRocker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I finally got a chance to do some more googling and see that I'm not the first to struggle finding distilled water readily available down here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Apparently Woolworths sells it in the laundry section or the hair products aisle. Is there something on the bottle I should be looking for right pH or mineral levels (ideally none but thought I'd check)?


The water itself won't really say it. It's the chemical makeup of the water that determines the PH level. 7 is absolute neutral, which Di water has, until it's exposed to air where it starts eating the CO2 in it.

Distilled water just has the majority of the minerals and elements removed (this is the junk that clogs up your water blocks over time). Where you can gain some pH points (Making it more Alkaline) is by mixing with a coolant. But the pH isn't something you really need to worry about. Running a Kill Coil is enough because by adding the "active" Ag+ Ions to the water, it irreversibly destroys essential enzymes in the cell walls of pathogens leading to their death.

I just was educating on the main differences between Di and Distilled water, and pH is one of the distinct differences. Distilled water won't swing it's pH readily. It will happen over time though as metal and various other contaminants form in the system. Which is why loop maintenance is important.

Some really good Information on loop chemistry is available here: http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-i/

Is it important? Not as important as maintaining your loop. If you take care of it, you shouldn't have any problems with whatever (sane - please don't use drinks as coolant) option you choose.


----------



## Killa Cam

Did somebody say woolworth? My absolute favorite childhood store! Thats where I bought my first bike, nes, genesis, snes, super soaker and a gang of ninja turtle, wwf and power ranger toys. Oh no... nostalgia is creeping in and now im feeling sad that i cant go back to being a kid in the 90s


----------



## rathborne

@MediaRocker I do have a bottle of EK coolant concentrate I planned to add to the water. Would this help balance out the SCA demineralised water I linked to earlier?


----------



## MediaRocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> @MediaRocker I do have a bottle of EK coolant concentrate I planned to add to the water. Would this help balance out the SCA demineralised water I linked to earlier?


I'm no pro at this, just studied a little bit of chemistry in High School and college. But Demineralized water should be the same thing as Di water. The coolant mixed with it IMO (please correct me if I am wrong anyone) may cancel out the effects of running straight Di water.

Honestly as long as you're not leaving your shizzle for 5 years without cleaning it, you'll most likely be alright.









Don't sweat the small stuff.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Question is do people bashing barrow for quallity used both barrow and bistpower so they can compare it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All know bitspower is heavily overpriced without really offering anything premium like quaillity or anything else.


I found this a bit interesting. Seems the new barrow stuff isn't copied and in some ways superior.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys (and that avatar is great @MediaRocker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I finally got a chance to do some more googling and see that I'm not the first to struggle finding distilled water readily available down here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Apparently Woolworths sells it in the laundry section or the hair products aisle. Is there something on the bottle I should be looking for right pH or mineral levels (ideally none but thought I'd check)?


Hey, A fellow Novacastrian. You won't find distilled in our supermarkets. The closest you will get is 'distilled water' .. which is, no kidding, a brand name for ordinary Demin water.
The best source I have found for it if you don't want to go to Sydney for it is just the local chemist. They should be able to get you 4 Litre jugs for a few bucks each. They use it for preparing medicinal mixtures. I normally buy a case of 3 x 4 Litre bottles.


----------



## MediaRocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Hey, A fellow Novacastrian. You won't find distilled in our supermarkets. The closest you will get is 'distilled water' .. which is, no kidding, a brand name for ordinary Demin water.
> The best source I have found for it if you don't want to go to Sydney for it is just the local chemist. They should be able to get you 4 Litre jugs for a few bucks each. They use it for preparing medicinal mixtures. I normally buy a case of 3 x 4 Litre bottles.


Good info bud! Welcome to OCN!


----------



## VSG

That announcement from Aquacomputer? Their new CPU blocks named the cuplex kryos NEXT:



















This above is the "standard" version with a metal housing and nickel plating, but if you look up a certain review I can't link to myself there is information on the other, very interesting versions as well.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Hey, A fellow Novacastrian. You won't find distilled in our supermarkets. The closest you will get is 'distilled water' .. which is, no kidding, a brand name for ordinary Demin water.
> The best source I have found for it if you don't want to go to Sydney for it is just the local chemist. They should be able to get you 4 Litre jugs for a few bucks each. They use it for preparing medicinal mixtures. I normally buy a case of 3 x 4 Litre bottles.


Hi Ashcroft! Thanks for the info







. I had noticed there were a few Sydney websites offering distilled water but I was worried about potential high freight costs. What chemists do you use to get distilled? I've got a Chemists Warehouse nearby. Really keen to get this project finished so I can continue another that I have planned







. ... or disappear into a Vive headset







.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MediaRocker*
> 
> There is a distinct difference between Distilled and Deionized water, especially when used scientifically.
> 
> The main takeaway is deionized water is naturally corrosive. It has a pH of 7 out of the container but after exposure to atmosphere settles down to around 5.6 as it absorbs and dissolves CO2 producing H+ and HCO3- as byproducts making it more acidic.
> 
> As for how Deionized water will react in your loop? I can't say for sure. As mentioned previously it is corrosive and can become acidic. It will naturally want to steal free radical electrons which can cause plating erosion as well as pitting. Additionally, this makes it more likely to grow bacteria, fungi, and algae. Ideally, pH should be between 8 and 10 for cooling loops.
> 
> But that's just my knowledge and opinion. I would stay away from Di water even if "you've had no issues" because I know what it can do and does even if you can't see it immediately.


Only had one block go weird and that seems to be dried on algae which a bit of polish will fix up, but I've yet to see adverse effects.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> I found this a bit interesting. Seems the new barrow stuff isn't copied and in some ways superior.


To me, Barrow is a great option! I live in Sweden, so paying 25 USD for a single Bitspower rotary fitting isn't an option, especially when I make builds with around 250 fittings, that includes plugs to valve balls and flow meters...

It's still A LOT of money on the table when you are buying this much, but at least I get value for the money







I have nothing to complain about at all. Also like the varieties, they have some unique stuff, for example, flow meters, and fittings you can't find from either Bitspowers or any other brand.

Quality has never been a question!

Only positive with Bitspower are the good looking gold, red and blue royal fittings







and that they have fittings no one else has, like 30 & 60 degree.


----------



## MediaRocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Only had one block go weird and that seems to be dried on algae which a bit of polish will fix up, but I've yet to see adverse effects.


Well Algae in your loop is because of the Di water (pH Drops over time which allows it's existence), but it's understandable if you can't get it easily locally.


----------



## AllGamer

That video smells at sponsored









What kind of "review" is that when there is no Con, but only all the Pros and praises,
doesn't seem very legit IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> I found this a bit interesting. Seems the new barrow stuff isn't copied and in some ways superior.


----------



## Kenjiwing

I mean what con does a barrow fitting have? I have them and ive been a bitspower fan for FOREVER but I cant think of a single con really.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> I mean what con does a barrow fitting have? I have them and ive been a bitspower fan for FOREVER but I cant think of a single con really.


I mean he did say the barrow fittings rotation is pretty stiff to the point he needed hand tools, I'd say that's a con?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MediaRocker*
> 
> There is a distinct difference between Distilled and Deionized water, especially when used scientifically.
> 
> The main takeaway is deionized water is naturally corrosive. It has a pH of 7 out of the container but after exposure to atmosphere settles down to around 5.6 as it absorbs and dissolves CO2 producing H+ and HCO3- as byproducts making it more acidic.
> 
> As for how Deionized water will react in your loop? I can't say for sure. As mentioned previously it is corrosive and can become acidic. It will naturally want to steal free radical electrons which can cause plating erosion as well as pitting. Additionally, this makes it more likely to grow bacteria, fungi, and algae. Ideally, pH should be between 8 and 10 for cooling loops.
> 
> But that's just my knowledge and opinion. I would stay away from Di water even if "you've had no issues" because I know what it can do and does even if you can't see it immediately.


I use DI all the time and while you are technically correct,in RL it makes little difference. Once you add you biocide and anti corro in there it is far less aggressive.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use DI all the time and while you are technically correct,in RL it makes little difference. Once you add you biocide and anti corro in there it is far less aggressive.


I've used RO/DI for years with no ill effects. I've use it straight with only a silver coil and mixed with EK-Ekoolant EVO with out issue.


----------



## MediaRocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use DI all the time and while you are technically correct,in RL it makes little difference. Once you add you biocide and anti corro in there it is far less aggressive.


I do believe I covered that already in one of my later posts








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MediaRocker*
> 
> I'm no pro at this, just studied a little bit of chemistry in High School and college. But Demineralized water should be the same thing as Di water. The coolant mixed with it IMO (please correct me if I am wrong anyone) may cancel out the effects of running straight Di water.
> 
> Honestly as long as you're not leaving your shizzle for 5 years without cleaning it, you'll most likely be alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't sweat the small stuff.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I mean he did say the barrow fittings rotation is pretty stiff to the point he needed hand tools, I'd say that's a con?


I too would consider that a Con, while at the same time it could be considered a Pro, depending on personal preferences.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That announcement from Aquacomputer? Their new CPU blocks named the cuplex kryos NEXT:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This above is the "standard" version with a metal housing and nickel plating, but if you look up a certain review I can't link to myself there is information on the other, very interesting versions as well.


I found this interesting and informative review for that. Seems like a great performing block! Glad to have the options


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I found this interesting and informative review for that. Seems like a great performing block! Glad to have the options


This review is from him, if you didn't knew.
He isn't allowed to post it here himself, as it is not allowed to advertise for your own website/blog or whatnot here.


----------



## VSG

Well I got some more pics of another product. Remember that Alphacool D5 variant that f_f shared a few days ago? The rotor is fixed in place, but the housing can be removed easily:



















Now where's @IT Diva when you need her?


----------



## greg1184

Note to self. Don't skim through what you are buying. I bought the 12" silicone when I have 10"ID tubing. ?

Oh well it's only a couple of bucks.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> This review is from him, if you didn't knew.
> He isn't allowed to post it here himself, as it is not allowed to advertise for your own website/blog or whatnot here.


yeah I know, I just don't mention it because then it seems like a conspiracy.... lol


----------



## atomicus

I'm liking the version with the built in LCD screen, neat idea!


----------



## Gabrielzm

I am impressed by the block line up. Vario and Vision seems like very neat ideas. Congratulations Aquacomputer.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> yeah I know, I just don't mention it because then it seems like a conspiracy.... lol


Ahah yup, thanks for sharing it tho, spread the word!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I'm liking the version with the built in LCD screen, neat idea!


I'm really interested in that particular one myself too, maybe I'll take this one instead of a supremacy evo acetal/nickel for the build that have been on hold forever now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

What that AC block makes up for ingenuity,it loses with the gopping aesthetics...I mean,Christ its ugly....

Loving the ability to custom deform the plate,that's a real step forward,very interesting technique. The adjustment doesn't look that accessible tho,it looks like its going to be a PITA once fitted.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What that AC block makes up for ingenuity,it loses with the gopping aesthetics...I mean,Christ its ugly....
> 
> Loving the ability to custom deform the plate,that's a real step forward,very interesting technique. The adjustment doesn't look that accessible tho,it looks like its going to be a PITA once fitted.


In regard to the adjustment it is a way forward no doubt and seems to be painful on a full loop assembled. My guess is we should do it without some of the ram on the sides on a bench first (with prime or whatever running) before putting into the case and final assemble with full RAM around. I kind of like the acrylic version as well as the nickel/PVD one.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well I got some more pics of another product. Remember that Alphacool D5 variant that f_f shared a few days ago? The rotor is fixed in place, but the housing can be removed easily:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now where's @IT Diva when you need her?


It is voltage regulated over PWM, NOT true PWM unfortunately.
Testing complete, review written BUT boss wants to hold back until publishing, probs on release day..

The small white washer at the end of the shaft has a split in it, remove that and the impeller can be removed.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It is voltage regulated over PWM, NOT true PWM unfortunately.
> Testing complete, review written BUT boss wants to hold back until publishing, probs on release day..
> 
> The small white washer at the end of the shaft has a split in it, remove that and the impeller can be removed.


From that pic seems to be some differences in the shaft and the impeller part from a regular D5...Or I am imagining things?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> From that pic seems to be some differences in the shaft and the impeller part from a regular D5...Or I am imagining things?


You sight is good Gabz









VPP755 has a cylindrical impeller while the D5 we know is cone shaped.

I think people are going to be impressed for the most part, I am


----------



## B NEGATIVE

PTFE or ceramic shaft?


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7he5tig*
> 
> Hey guys, just finished my first custom loop. Not sure if this is the right place to post this (I don't see any new build pics being posted around here) but anyway...
> 
> 
> 
> Full album and spec list is here: http://imgur.com/gallery/tGKsc
> 
> Feedback is really appreciated


Nice looking rig!

Having trouble understanding your flow design pattern. Do you have a simple sketch or something to share?

Looking to build something similar.

Thanks


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wish the Iceforce would come back


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PTFE or ceramic shaft?


From the review...
"_The VPP755 impeller shaft appears to be ceramic, but it is one of those fragile parts you don't want to mess too much with, so I didn't fully investigate the shaft for fear of breaking it_."


----------



## VSG

It definitely feels ceramic if you know what I mean. It occupies a smaller footprint compared a standard D5:





f_f: Thanks for the heads up, I noticed that split as well since that last post. Yeah, it's a full voltage control device explaining the "Vario" and "PWM" nature. It's still very good as you well have known by now as well. Legitimately surprised at the increase in performance and yet the lower noise levels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What that AC block makes up for ingenuity,it loses with the gopping aesthetics...I mean,Christ its ugly....
> 
> Loving the ability to custom deform the plate,that's a real step forward,very interesting technique. The adjustment doesn't look that accessible tho,it looks like its going to be a PITA once fitted.


Aesthetics are personal, I kinda like it myself.

There are hex holes on the sloped sides which are used with an Allen key to change the bow of the base plate. From the pics I saw it seems accessible enough once installed, although in a tight fit with little space above the motherboard it would be hard.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I'm with B-Neg on the aesthetics... but the features make up for that IMO. Would have gone with that had it been out when I ordered my Watercool block. Still think the WC block looks way better but that screen on the vision just tickles my inner nerd too much to ignore!


----------



## greg1184

I ended up having to remove the front 280 radiator to put the reservoir on. It was a pain in the ass. Seems like nothing ever fits! The holes of the singularity bracket do not line up with the holes in the back of the reservoir. So I got creative and just put one screw top and bottom to the reservoir bracket. It came out fine and nice and tight.

I'm debating whether to get a 240 reservoir for the bottom. Is. 360 in push pull enough for a gpu CPU setup?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pn4HjvIYj

Picked up a new res mount.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What that AC block makes up for ingenuity,it loses with the gopping aesthetics...I mean,Christ its ugly....
> 
> Loving the ability to custom deform the plate,that's a real step forward,very interesting technique. The adjustment doesn't look that accessible tho,it looks like its going to be a PITA once fitted.


I dunno B, I think your bias is showing.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I'm liking the version with the built in LCD screen, neat idea!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I'm with B-Neg on the aesthetics... but the features make up for that IMO. Would have gone with that had it been out when I ordered my Watercool block. Still think the WC block looks way better but that screen on the vision just tickles my inner nerd too much to ignore!


I kinda like it, the display not withstanding. Nothing wrong with the display save for the digital display choice. I like the idea and AC did a good job incorporating it into the design. It should be lit, because lbh most Enthusiasts have some form of lighting going on in their case which could in theory wash it out.

If I were to get a new block I would seriously consider this one. I like the blacked out model over the nickel plated version though.









~Ceadder


----------



## _Killswitch_

I think it's a neat idea with little LCD screen, and I don't think the over-all design is "ugly" lol sorry guys. I will have see reviews what not before I give they money they are probably going to want for it.

I like the Nickel version but black one would probably show the screen better in most cases/Pc's


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> I think it's a neat idea with little LCD screen, and I don't think the over-all design is "ugly" lol sorry guys. I will have see reviews what not before I give they money they are probably going to want for it.
> 
> I like the Nickel version but black one would probably show the screen better in most cases/Pc's


Well, obviously taste is subjective by definition - so there will be plenty on both sides I'm sure. I love the finish options and features - it's just the shape itself that kinda rubs me the wrong way.

In the right situation it could be a great feature, but with almost every other component in a PC having a more industrial vs organic aesthetic - asymmetrical shapes (especially prominent ones like blocks) stick out like sore thumbs IMO at least. I don't mind curves although I thought the old kuro was a little too 'curvy' but at least it was more symmetrical.

Now in a scratch build that had no parallel sides and lots of organic shaped acrylic or milled aluminum structures to it (_like an H.R. Giger inspired build_)... in that kind of design, I think no other block would look even half as good as those!









EDIT: Before someone points it out - I know it's bilaterally symmetrical... I was referring to dual-axis symmetry and squared designs more specifically.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It should be lit, because lbh most Enthusiasts have some form of lighting going on in their case which could in theory wash it out.


Come on... do you really think we have placed a cheap standard LCD there? This is an OLED screen which is quite bright at its highest setting and the contrast is perfect since it is not a classic LCD. We have build a demo system with it and the lightning there has no effect at all on the clarity.


----------



## Andrew LB

I was just checking these out on AquaComputer's site. Here is the Vision + Vario version. This is one of those items where the old saying "if you have to ask how much, you can't afford it" definitely applies. Ouch... 154 euros (incl 19% tax)



If that didn't hurt your wallet enough, how about the Vision-Vario-.925 Silver version.











edit/

Forgot to add the price of the silver version is 269 euros.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Come on... do you really think we have placed a cheap standard LCD there? This is an OLED screen which is quite bright at its highest setting and the contrast is perfect since it is not a classic LCD. We have build a demo system with it and the lightning there has no effect at all on the clarity.


OMG! OK do you have the other displays shown in that system available yet... because block or no... those are going in something I'm building ASAP if they're available.


----------



## Shoggy

The other products will be announced in about one or two weeks. The release of the new CPU block was a pretty exhausting thing that required a lot of time to prepare everything (video, photos, texts etc.). The initial plan was to release everything on the same day but it was just way too much.


----------



## VSG

Those GPU terminals with built in temp sensors and display is pretty cool. Even more so than integration with the CPU blocks, but more options are always good


----------



## Kimir

I'd love that kind of thing on a D5 pump/res top with flow and temp sensor integrated.


----------



## feznz

After all this talk about Barrow I thought I would share some pics of the reservoir I am now convinced their product is the up and coming soon to be top of the range.
I am overall pleased with the reservoir I got to replace my bay reservoir the only minor flaws I could find;
The fittings are spaced a little too close together IMO but I am sure it wont cause problems.
The Acrylic pump block is not polished.
There is a little chamfer dust in the return tube
The logo is not as appeasing as it could be.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

With the new AquaComputer block I wonder if LGA 775 will see love as well ^_^;;;


----------



## TheCautiousOne

That kyronos block with the digi readout is pretty sick.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It should be lit, because lbh most Enthusiasts have some form of lighting going on in their case which could in theory wash it out.
> 
> 
> 
> Come on... do you really think we have placed a cheap standard LCD there? This is an OLED screen which is quite bright at its highest setting and the contrast is perfect since it is not a classic LCD. We have build a demo system with it and the lightning there has no effect at all on the clarity.
Click to expand...

No no I don't. But if you read through my entire post you see that I was actually on the fence about the OLED. Not trashing it but actually being open minded about the whole product. And everything based on limited pics of the subject.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno B, I think your bias is showing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda like it, the display not withstanding. Nothing wrong with the display save for the digital display choice. I like the idea and AC did a good job incorporating it into the design. It should be lit, because lbh most Enthusiasts have some form of lighting going on in their case which could in theory wash it out.
> 
> If I were to get a new block I would seriously consider this one. I like the blacked out model over the nickel plated version though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I don't have employer bias,technically I like the mounting,specifically the sunken spring mounts and the 'vario' tech. Aesthetically I'm more Bauhaus,I like clean lines.
That's not bias,that's taste.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Thanks for the reply.

I am still a little worried due to the build up in a 30cm run ... maybe my flow is to little ...


----------



## catbuster

I will go with B, dat AC block shape is ugly







but yeah its just personal taste







LCD version looks pointless also


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno B, I think your bias is showing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda like it, the display not withstanding. Nothing wrong with the display save for the digital display choice. I like the idea and AC did a good job incorporating it into the design. It should be lit, because lbh most Enthusiasts have some form of lighting going on in their case which could in theory wash it out.
> 
> If I were to get a new block I would seriously consider this one. I like the blacked out model over the nickel plated version though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have employer bias,technically I like the mounting,specifically the sunken spring mounts and the 'vario' tech. Aesthetically I'm more Bauhaus,I like clean lines.
> That's not bias,that's taste.
Click to expand...

No worries B, I know it's not employer bias. Just takin the [email protected] out of ya. Hence the "







" at the end of the comment.

But here is why I like the block. It had a certain shape to it that I identified with almost immediately...

AC Block



Egyptian Scarab



Not too far off of what I know from when I saw Tut's artifacts being promoted around this country when I was a young polliwog.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> After all this talk about Barrow I thought I would share some pics of the reservoir I am now convinced their product is the up and coming soon to be top of the range.
> I am overall pleased with the reservoir I got to replace my bay reservoir the only minor flaws I could find;
> The fittings are spaced a little too close together IMO but I am sure it wont cause problems.
> The Acrylic pump block is not polished.
> There is a little chamfer dust in the return tube
> The logo is not as appeasing as it could be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That pump top is almost a one to one copy of the early Koolance pumptops.......which I can tell you first hand are crap.

In Barrows defense,I would rather have that top than the BP one,looks much better and probably performs better.


----------



## Shobai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Hi guys, ... am looking for the distilled water. My local car shop doesn't list distilled water on the website but it does have demineralised water.
> 
> Is this an acceptable substitute?
> 
> Sorry if the question has been asked before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Just in case anyone else from Australia is looking for distilled water, check your local Big W - they usually have 4L bottles with their clothes irons.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shobai*
> 
> Just in case anyone else from Australia is looking for distilled water, check your local Big W - they usually have 4L bottles with their clothes irons.


Thanks for the heads up, I'll definitely remember it for next time







. Already grabbed a few bottles of demineralised water at Super Cheap Auto this morning as it should be OK with the coolant concentrate







. Also got the brand wrong, sorry, it was XSPC and not EK.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shobai*
> 
> Just in case anyone else from Australia is looking for distilled water, check your local Big W - they usually have 4L bottles with their clothes irons.


If you are referring to Davis Gray's - don't be fooled by the naming, read the label












*This distilled is available at Auto Barn*
and worth a quick read from their website - *Definition of Demineralised, Distilled and Deionised Water*


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That pump top is almost a one to one copy of the early Koolance pumptops.......which I can tell you first hand are crap.
> 
> In Barrows defense,I would rather have that top than the BP one,looks much better and probably performs better.


The volute does indeed look quite smooth but I am yet to put the reservoir in my loop so I guess I will be finding out the pitfalls then.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up, I'll definitely remember it for next time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Already grabbed a few bottles of demineralised water at Super Cheap Auto this morning as it should be OK with the coolant concentrate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also got the brand wrong, sorry, it was XSPC and not EK.


I was down there down under in Super cheap NZ this morning I not too sure this will be the first time I didn't use tap water







has me a little worried about the "warning not to be taken contains preservatives"


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If you are referring to Davis Gray's - don't be fooled by the naming, read the label
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *This distilled is available at Auto Barn*
> and worth a quick read from their website - *Definition of Demineralised, Distilled and Deionised Water*


"the name DISTILLED WATER is not intended to describe the process of purification" - wow, really, then why are they calling it distilled water







?

Thanks for the heads up







. We really need a sticky in the water cooling section for this stuff if you're in countries where distilled water is a rarity or a minefield of incorrectly labelled products







.


----------



## kariverson

I recently got an XSPC raystorm watercooling kit with photon 170 and d5 pump combo and 360mm radiator. I got it used caused I found a bargain but damn it took me a while to clean it up. Previous owner must have used it with tap water or something. The tubing had a white/green coating on the inside! I cleaned it up by running a 90% distilled water 10% white vinegar for a while. Then running just distilled until the water was fully transparent again.

I'm intending to run it distilled water with a silver killcoil (read that 925 silver is enough) and soft tubes for a couple of months and then so a hard line with the XSPC red premixed coolant.
Here is a small video of when I was cleaning it. This is my second PC build ever (first one was 9 months ago in my sig) and my first watercooling. I've done so many hours of research, I feel like a plumber









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwT
FW-RHHqQ

(just connect the lines and refer to PS3 why the video doesn't work posted differently)

PS. The waterblock was not in the cleaning loop because it is copper and I didn't want to have it on vinegar for above a specific amount of time. I didn't have the tools to open it up so I did a 80% 20% mix of distilled and vinegar filled it up a bit and shook it real well. Then I rinsed with distilled and dish soap and then just distilled. I have no idea how good it was cleaned up.

PS2. why the hell isn't my video working at all, not even when I just put a link.

PS3. Heh I know why! The link contains the abbreviation WT"F" haha, what are the chances of that!


----------



## D13mass

Hi! Finally I got Mo-Ra3 9*140 and I made some upgrade of my build, it`s not a clean now and probably it`s a draft version because I don`t know where will be place for radiator.

I have a question regarding videocard, is it OK? Or I have to fix sagging of videocard?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Hi! Finally I got Mo-Ra3 9*140 and I made some upgrade of my build, it`s not a clean now and probably it`s a draft version because I don`t know where will be place for radiator.
> 
> I have a question regarding videocard, is it OK? Or I have to fix sagging of videocard?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


GPU sag is fine, it can be reduced with a back plate as it will reinforce the GPU PCB, but to fix that last bit of sag you need to use something to prop the card up, I've seen some people use acrylic tubing, MNPCTech sell GPU retention brackets etc.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> GPU sag is fine, it can be reduced with a back plate as it will reinforce the GPU PCB, but to fix that last bit of sag you need to use something to prop the card up, I've seen some people use acrylic tubing, MNPCTech sell GPU retention brackets etc.


Thank you for answer, you calmed me down, so no reasons for panic







(I do not feel myself for re-instal again)


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Hi! Finally I got Mo-Ra3 9*140 and I made some upgrade of my build, it`s not a clean now and probably it`s a draft version because I don`t know where will be place for radiator.
> 
> I have a question regarding videocard, is it OK? Or I have to fix sagging of videocard?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a lot of sag though.... I'd definitely prop that up asap. Is that tubing from cpu to gpu pushing down on the card?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Thank you for answer, you calmed me down, so no reasons for panic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I do not feel myself for re-instal again)


I would see if you could lift that card because it does like quite bad from your pics, you could use the tubing to push and pull it up, same with your power plugs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> GPU sag is fine, it can be reduced with a back plate as it will reinforce the GPU PCB, but to fix that last bit of sag you need to use something to prop the card up, I've seen some people use acrylic tubing, MNPCTech sell GPU retention brackets etc.


Backplates do nothing for sag,they reinforce the PCB and stiffen it so its not so easily deformed by thermal pads etc.
The simple fact is that its the PCI fingers that is taking the strain and they are right up by the IO plate,you have a lot of leverage on a pivot that's not balanced.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Just a question, I am seeing a build up in my loop along my long runs and there is buildup in the coolant bottle (see below) ... ... Is this normal ?


If no one answered this it's normal. Pastel when it sits in a bottle or in dead spots in a loop it separates. What you are seeing is the nano particals. Which is one reason I went away from pastel


----------



## eucalyptus

My radiators are done









You can find more pictures in my build log here on OCN









http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2898530/


----------



## D13mass

As temporary decision I found the laces from the shoes (didn`t find any wires) and spent 15 minutes for some magic)))

Probably now is OK








Thank you guys for advice!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> My radiators are done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can find more pictures in my build log here on OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2898530/


Ooo, very nice.

Now you making me want to paint my radiators for a upcoming rebuild.


----------



## looniam

so after reading the whole thread (took a few days) obligatory (potato) pic:


EK 280 PE kit w/VGA supremacy block in a $40 rosewell case.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> so after reading the whole thread (took a few days) obligatory (potato) pic:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK 280 PE kit w/VGA supremacy block in a $40 rosewell case.


No fans on that rad? How are your temps with that?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Backplates do nothing for sag,they reinforce the PCB and stiffen it so its not so easily deformed by thermal pads etc.
> The simple fact is that its the PCI fingers that is taking the strain and they are right up by the IO plate,you have a lot of leverage on a pivot that's not balanced.


That's what I meant by what I said about the backplate, good example is my golden 970, it's not got a full block on it and the PCB was bent well out of shape but the backplate helped it out a good deal, still sags though in the slot lol.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> so after reading the whole thread (took a few days) obligatory (potato) pic:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK 280 PE kit w/VGA supremacy block in a $40 rosewell case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No fans on that rad? How are your temps with that?
Click to expand...

they're in push.










i'm thinking about getting two more w/grills for push/pull . . .i'm actually thinking about A LOT of things . . .


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> so after reading the whole thread (took a few days) obligatory (potato) pic:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK 280 PE kit w/VGA supremacy block in a $40 rosewell case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No fans on that rad? How are your temps with that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> they're in push.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm thinking about getting two more w/grills for push/pull . . .i'm actually thinking about A LOT of things . . .
Click to expand...

Should make them Pull if you're going Exhaust. Makes upkeep a bit easier when you can dust your Radiator with a paint brush.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> As temporary decision I found the laces from the shoes (didn`t find any wires) and spent 15 minutes for some magic)))
> 
> Probably now is OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you guys for advice!


Nice work around lol and looks much better now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol GPU support webbing







good thinking


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> As temporary decision I found the laces from the shoes (didn`t find any wires) and spent 15 minutes for some magic)))
> 
> Probably now is OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you guys for advice!


Made me giggle a bit... but as the saying goes here in Sweden... "all solutions are good, but the bad ones"


----------



## greg1184

Is the alphacool st30 360 push pull sufficient for a CPU and single gpu loop?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Is the alphacool st30 360 push pull sufficient for a CPU and single gpu loop?


Look at his other posts in here... he has more than that in terms of rad space.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Look at his other posts in here... he has more than that in terms of rad space.


I'm asking for my purposes. I'm figuring out whether to get a second rad.


----------



## DarthBaggins

A single 360 will easily cover CPU and single GPU in a loop


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> A single 360 will easily cover CPU and single GPU in a loop


Good to hear. I originally put a second 280 rad in the front of my inwin 909 but I had to remove it to make room for my reservoir.


----------



## Ovrclck

Does anyone have a tutorial on how to crimp female fan connectors? Is it the same process as the other dupont connectors?


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Does anyone have a tutorial on how to crimp female fan connectors? Is it the same process as the other dupont connectors?


It's the same I did this one a while back

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=360468
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=360468


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> It's the same I did this one a while back
> 
> http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=360468
> http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=360468


Thank you sir! I just tested and got a nice crimp the first time. +Rep


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> As temporary decision I found the laces from the shoes (didn`t find any wires) and spent 15 minutes for some magic)))
> 
> Probably now is OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you guys for advice!










that is a HOF for this thread,
http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/0_20


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> That's what I meant by what I said about the backplate, good example is my golden 970, it's not got a full block on it and the PCB was bent well out of shape but the backplate helped it out a good deal, still sags though in the slot lol.


ATX is just outdated now,it hasn't stood the test of time....there are many design problems that have surfaced as cards have become more powerful/massive. Sag is one of them.


----------



## X-Nine

I'm mixed on the new AC blocks. The shape is kind of odd to me, but at the same time I want it. Waiting to see what other new items they have. For blocks, AC and HK are making some insanely cool stuff the last couple years.


----------



## erso44

60°C on water temp....nahhh not good


----------



## jleslie246

Finally added 3mm white LED's to my Super Evo block


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> they're in push.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm thinking about getting two more w/grills for push/pull . . .i'm actually thinking about A LOT of things . . .


Those Vadar fans are the best I have ever used. You are probably fine with push only.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Finally added 3mm white LED's to my Super Evo block


That's nice, what was your method?


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> That's nice, what was your method?


Thank you.

The 3mm holes are already in the block. I just ordered a 2 x 3mm molex pigtail from ppcs. I did my own wire sleeving.


----------



## muzammil84

more pics in Tt P5 thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1581986/thermaltake-core-p5-owners-club/1850#post_25618445

ta


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> they're in push.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm thinking about getting two more w/grills for push/pull . . .i'm actually thinking about A LOT of things . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those Vadar fans are the best I have ever used. You are probably fine with push only.
Click to expand...

not going to disagree but i look at this:



and think about getting another ~40 watts of dissipation (that is w/ NF-A14 Industrial PPC-2000 fans) my temps are decent (~64c-68c cpu, 45c-50c gpu w/prime [blend] AND furmark) but i can hear the fans.

funny thing about fan noise, never heard them until i cranked them to 100% and put my ear up to the open case. now i hear them 1.5 meters away.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics in Tt P5 thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1581986/thermaltake-core-p5-owners-club/1850#post_25618445
> 
> 
> 
> ta


Why aren't you running the card in the optimal slot?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why aren't you running the card in the optimal slot?


both slots are the same speed


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> both slots are the same speed


True, not sure why I thought that top slot was any different tbh.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> True, not sure why I thought that top slot was any different tbh.


I think it looks better this way, shows off a bit more of a motherboard and orange leds on SB ;P
Just out of curiosity, i'll run some benchmarks and tests in both slots tomorrow; you might have a point actually but according to Asus' specs both slots are 3.0 16x(if only one occupied).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> both slots are the same speed
> 
> 
> 
> True, not sure why I thought that top slot was any different tbh.
Click to expand...

It is . . . .

Google some pics of that board, and you'll see that the top slot is fully pinned, while the second one down is only half pinned . . . it's electrically X8, whether the top is populated or not.


----------



## Pawelr98

Budget Watercooling loop I made for my brother from spare watercooling parts.

8/10 Tubing
Thermaltake p500 Pump (500L/H 1.8M)
MNP Poseidon Waterblock (Polish made, somehow fits LGA1155(it's an 775 era block))
MagiCool Copper Radiator III (360mm, 30mm thick)
500ML bottle as reservoir

Reservoir->pump->cpu->rad->reservoir

Results are
[email protected] 1.4V at full load(prime95 small FFT) hottest core reaches 80°C

I had to use angle grindger to shave off some plastic from pump connector.
Otherwise the o-ring wouldn't be pressed down enough resulting in a leak.

Silicon (white stuff) is just a "better safe than sorry".


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It is . . . .
> 
> Google some pics of that board, and you'll see that the top slot is fully pinned, while the second one down is only half pinned . . . it's electrically X8, whether the top is populated or not.


Ahhh yeah that was it! I have the same board but running 2x 980ti in sli.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> A single 360 will easily cover CPU and single GPU in a loop


Really? I'm planning out a custom loop for a soon to be purchased Enthoo Pro M and i keep coming across threads where people are saying a 360 + 240 or 280 is necessary if you overclock. I'm planning on cooling an i5-4670k @ 4.2ghz and a GTX 780ti @ 1147mhz. The water cooling parts i have already purchased are an Alphacool DDC310 complete edition, AlphaCool tube res, AquaComputer Kryographics GTX 780ti acrylic, and some fittings. I'm about to buy a 360 rad and an aquacomputer cuplex kryos CPU block.

any good advice for me? I've been building PCs for 20 years but have never water cooled before. I also have no problem modding the case either.


----------



## Andrew LB

Oh man.... never in my life would I have thought a CPU block would have a digital display with phone integration.














I'm sorry, but that is a beautiful CPU block. At least it's not topped with a square piece of acrylic...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> A single 360 will easily cover CPU and single GPU in a loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really? I'm planning out a custom loop for a soon to be purchased Enthoo Pro M and i keep coming across threads where people are saying a 360 + 240 or 280 is necessary if you overclock. I'm planning on cooling an i5-4670k @ 4.2ghz and a GTX 780ti @ 1147mhz. The water cooling parts i have already purchased are an Alphacool DDC310 complete edition, AlphaCool tube res, AquaComputer Kryographics GTX 780ti acrylic, and some fittings. I'm about to buy a 360 rad and an aquacomputer cuplex kryos CPU block.
> 
> any good advice for me? I've been building PCs for 20 years but have never water cooled before. I also have no problem modding the case either.
Click to expand...

A lot of what you hear is personal opinion.

Rule of thumb tbh is 120mm(Or 140 etc) per block +120(or larger cooling area).

So say you're cooling a CPU only. That would = 240 if you plan to OC your CPU. You can certainly add more if you wish. Lord knows that three 360s are serious overkill for my mod. But it's visually pleasing for me, so that's what I'm doing for CPU, MB, two GPU only blocks and RAM. I wouldn't even notice the difference between 2 or 3 Rads in my system cooling an 1100t, two 6870s, NB and SB and two 6GB sticks of Dominator 1600s.

I also have an i7 4790 that I will be cooling in a Dell system that I will only add a 140mm Rad too. There is no need for larger since I cannot clock the CPU since it's locked. Yeah I can fiddle with a couple settings to get a mild clock on it but it's on a Dell board, so I can't even do that much. I'm adding water strictly cause I cannot imagine a system w/o it at this time. Yeah I have a couple Air Cooling options but I like water so that is what this system is going to get. May even hardline it for shiggles.









Just do your research get your components and take your time. You'll love it in the end if you did everything correctly.









~Ceadder


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A lot of what you hear is personal opinion.
> 
> Rule of thumb tbh is 120mm(Or 140 etc) per block +120(or larger cooling area).
> 
> So say you're cooling a CPU only. That would = 240 if you plan to OC your CPU. You can certainly add more if you wish. Lord knows that three 360s are serious overkill for my mod. But it's visually pleasing for me, so that's what I'm doing for CPU, MB, two GPU only blocks and RAM. I wouldn't even notice the difference between 2 or 3 Rads in my system cooling an 1100t, two 6870s, NB and SB and two 6GB sticks of Dominator 1600s.
> 
> I also have an i7 4790 that I will be cooling in a Dell system that I will only add a 140mm Rad too. There is no need for larger since I cannot clock the CPU since it's locked. Yeah I can fiddle with a couple settings to get a mild clock on it but it's on a Dell board, so I can't even do that much. I'm adding water strictly cause I cannot imagine a system w/o it at this time. Yeah I have a couple Air Cooling options but I like water so that is what this system is going to get. May even hardline it for shiggles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just do your research get your components and take your time. You'll love it in the end if you did everything correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree with this, but I prefer silence, so I often go 360mm per component.


----------



## Andrew LB

I'm going to start with a 360 and see how temps are and if necessary, add an additional 240 or 360 rad to the front of the case. I am just finishing up some extensive reading over at martinsliquidlab.com and the big 360 rad roundup on xtremerigs.net and it seems Martin's analysis of rads makes a lot of sense.

He says:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martinsliquidlab*
> With that I would say generally the thermal performance differences are relatively small, but there are some generalities:
> 
> - Copper Tubes are better than Brass Tubes
> - Thicker radiators generally can be tuned for a broader range of RPMs than thinner
> - Thicker radiators can perform better than thinner radiators, but the difference is not more than 5-10% typically
> - Flat tubed radiators perform better than round tubed radiators
> - Slim 30mm radiators can be tuned to perform extremely well in specific areas, but generally that means loosing more in the opposite area (ie a high speed tuned slim radiator won't perform well at slow speeds)
> - Build quality does vary and here you do get what you pay for.
> - In performance, you don't get what you pay for.


Xtremerigs massive radiator shootout says the best performing slim rad is the HardwareLabs Nemesis GTS 360 while the best value rad (averaged performance divided by price) is the Magicool G2 slim 360. While in the graphs they seem like they performed dramatically different, the difference is less than 10%. Because i'm using a 10w DDC and already have a fairly restrictive GPU block (Aquacomputer Kryptographics gtx 780ti), i should probably avoid a radiator as restrictive as the Nemesis GTS correct?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> I'm going to start with a 360 and see how temps are and if necessary, add an additional 240 or 360 rad to the front of the case. I am just finishing up some extensive reading over at martinsliquidlab.com and the big 360 rad roundup on xtremerigs.net and it seems Martin's analysis of rads makes a lot of sense.
> 
> He says:
> Xtremerigs massive radiator shootout says the best performing slim rad is the HardwareLabs Nemesis GTS 360 while the best value rad (averaged performance divided by price) is the Magicool G2 slim 360. While in the graphs they seem like they performed dramatically different, the difference is less than 10%. Because i'm using a 10w DDC and already have a fairly restrictive GPU block (Aquacomputer Kryptographics gtx 780ti), i should probably avoid a radiator as restrictive as the Nemesis GTS correct?


A xflow radiator will have the least amount of restriction so if that's your aim then get one of those. I have the magicool I think it's the G2 been a nice radiator for the last few years.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A lot of what you hear is personal opinion.
> 
> Rule of thumb tbh is 120mm(Or 140 etc) per block +120(or larger cooling area).
> 
> So say you're cooling a CPU only. That would = 240 if you plan to OC your CPU. You can certainly add more if you wish. Lord knows that three 360s are serious overkill for my mod. But it's visually pleasing for me, so that's what I'm doing for CPU, MB, two GPU only blocks and RAM. I wouldn't even notice the difference between 2 or 3 Rads in my system cooling an 1100t, two 6870s, NB and SB and two 6GB sticks of Dominator 1600s.
> 
> I also have an i7 4790 that I will be cooling in a Dell system that I will only add a 140mm Rad too. There is no need for larger since I cannot clock the CPU since it's locked. Yeah I can fiddle with a couple settings to get a mild clock on it but it's on a Dell board, so I can't even do that much. I'm adding water strictly cause I cannot imagine a system w/o it at this time. Yeah I have a couple Air Cooling options but I like water so that is what this system is going to get. May even hardline it for shiggles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just do your research get your components and take your time. You'll love it in the end if you did everything correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with this, but I prefer silence, so I often go 360mm per component.
Click to expand...

Sadly I don't have that kind of Real Estate to work with in the 932. Not even after gutting it. Otherwise I'd have no problem stuffing five 360s under the hood. But then there would be no computer parts other than the cooling setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

You could add another 120/140 rad or a 240/280 but really in all a single 360 can cover a lot even when OC'ing

I did run dual 240 rads just to cool my 4790k when I had it folding 24/7 @ 4.8/4.9 under Linux. But that chip was being pushed hard 24/7 and is still rocking strong. I'm hoping to have everything in my own build back underwater soon, just need to get blocks for the GPU's and a 2011-v3 kit for my cuplex kryos delrin block. For that I'll be running dual 360's which will net 2-120mm cores per component, but I have the real estate that can house it and then some with option to expand to a pedestal


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> Oh man.... never in my life would I have thought a CPU block would have a digital display with phone integration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, but that is a beautiful CPU block. At least it's not topped with a square piece of acrylic...


This "VISION" technology is very interresting and has this innovative design. (displays flowrate, water temps, Cpu Voltages etc) The Price is not so high, too. 120€ for Acrylic Block. The Kuplex Blocks have a very good cooling performance anyway.
But this electronic build on the block like AIO Coolers have.
Hmmmm.....
This display will restrict place for tubing too.
But this thing looks awesome,


----------



## saint19

Guys another question...

What is the best way to purge and fill up a system again? My pump is a D5 Vario.

Thanks for the advice.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Guys another question...
> 
> What is the best way to purge and fill up a system again? My pump is a D5 Vario.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.


@saint19
Open the drain valve and fill the reservoir with 5l distilled water again and again with full speed. you can so flush the system easily.
Or you can flush it with a self priming drill pump like this


Or you drain the water completely and dissassemble the system

I hat an ek coolant and just wanted to change in pastel coolant. I flush 5 liter distilled water and it was clean.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Guys another question...
> 
> What is the best way to purge and fill up a system again? My pump is a D5 Vario.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.
> 
> 
> 
> @saint19
> Open the drain valve and fill the reservoir with 5l distilled water again and again with full speed. you can so flush the system easily.
> Or you can flush it with a self priming drill pump like this
> 
> 
> Or you drain the water completely and dissassemble the system
> 
> I hat an ek coolant and just wanted to change in pastel coolant. I flush 5 liter distilled water and it was clean.
Click to expand...

Typically the same idea that I do. Disconnect the inlet to your reservoir and have that run to a catch try, then plug off the inlet of the res and keep filling it up and run 4 liter container of distilled water through the entire loop.


----------



## saint19

Well, I will guess that my loop is not too dirty since it is running distilled water.

Thanks for the advice.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> 
> 
> Or you drain the water completely and dissassemble the system
> 
> I hat an ek coolant and just wanted to change in pastel coolant. I flush 5 liter distilled water and it was clean.


I need to buy one of those, would make draining a breeze.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I need to buy one of those, would make draining a breeze.


Here but it has to be self priming
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=drill+pump


----------



## Andrew LB

I'm not sure an x-flow rad will fit up top in that case
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You could add another 120/140 rad or a 240/280 but really in all a single 360 can cover a lot even when OC'ing
> 
> I did run dual 240 rads just to cool my 4790k when I had it folding 24/7 @ 4.8/4.9 under Linux. But that chip was being pushed hard 24/7 and is still rocking strong. I'm hoping to have everything in my own build back underwater soon, just need to get blocks for the GPU's and a 2011-v3 kit for my cuplex kryos delrin block. For that I'll be running dual 360's which will net 2-120mm cores per component, but I have the real estate that can house it and then some with option to expand to a pedestal


Is that the new NEXT Cuplex Kryos or the old version? I couldn't find a US retailer who had it in stock, so i opted for the XSPC Raystorm. The CPU block and Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic arrive on Wednesday. I have been testing the pump, gpu block, and 360 rad using regular tubing and barbs but once i get everything here so i can mock it up in the case, i'm likely going to be putting in an order for the fittings and PETG tubing. I'm also going to make some adjustments to the case such as cutting out the rear fan grille and i'll likely modify the top so i can put the fans above the radiator. I have some 140mm Yate Loon medium speed fans which will work well in the front of the case and even though they're loud when on high, i've got three Corsair PWM fans like the ones that come with the H80i. I think they're 2700rpm max. I do have a Noctua IndustrialPPC 3000rpm 120mm fan sitting here on my desk... im tempted to buy two more and use those with the rad instead of those corsairs.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I need to buy one of those, would make draining a breeze.


Harbor Freight sells those things super cheap. http://www.harborfreight.com/all-purpose-drill-powered-pump-390-gph-62783.html


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> I'm not sure an x-flow rad will fit up top in that case
> Is that the new NEXT Cuplex Kryos or the old version? I couldn't find a US retailer who had it in stock, so i opted for the XSPC Raystorm. The CPU block and Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic arrive on Wednesday. I have been testing the pump, gpu block, and 360 rad using regular tubing and barbs but once i get everything here so i can mock it up in the case, i'm likely going to be putting in an order for the fittings and PETG tubing. I'm also going to make some adjustments to the case such as cutting out the rear fan grille and i'll likely modify the top so i can put the fans above the radiator. I have some 140mm Yate Loon medium speed fans which will work well in the front of the case and even though they're loud when on high, i've got three Corsair PWM fans like the ones that come with the H80i. I think they're 2700rpm max. I do have a Noctua IndustrialPPC 3000rpm 120mm fan sitting here on my desk... im tempted to buy two more and use those with the rad instead of those corsairs.


I've had my Delrin for a couple years now so it's not a newer version, it was originally used on my 4790k


----------



## greg1184

Acrylic has quite the learning curve. Cutting is fun. I was having issues until I learned to tape the tube first. Now bending is another story.

Any tips to avoid kinking/deforming when bending? I have bitpower tubes and bitspower silicon supposedly designed for their tubing. Sometimes I get very clean bends and then on the same tube I get a deformed bend. Very annoying.

Does it matter how hot or quickly I heat the tube and/or bend them?


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Acrylic has quite the learning curve. Cutting is fun. I was having issues until I learned to tape the tube first. Now bending is another story.
> 
> Any tips to avoid kinking/deforming when bending? I have bitpower tubes and bitspower silicon supposedly designed for their tubing. Sometimes I get very clean bends and then on the same tube I get a deformed bend. Very annoying.
> 
> Does it matter how hot or quickly I heat the tube and/or bend them?


You have to get it at the right temperature and not only the bend itself but all around it. Also you can't overheat it otherwise you will get bubbles and it might crack.
Jayz2Cents has a video on this. I think it is this one or maybe there was another one on his channel.


----------



## fast_fate

VPP755 pump review gone live


----------



## Kastor16

Put my 1080 on water and upgraded to rigid tubing.

It was my first time using any rigid tubing and I found the PETG was great to work with for a beginner. Enjoy the photos!








Had to make a few modifications to my ARC XL. I removed the old drive bays so I could fit a 280mm rad in the front and made a new bracket to hold the pump/res.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> VPP755 pump review gone live


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/10/31/alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755-pump-review/


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/10/31/alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755-pump-review/


Looks rather solid. A very viable alternative to the mighty D5 it seems.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Acrylic has quite the learning curve. Cutting is fun. I was having issues until I learned to tape the tube first. Now bending is another story.
> 
> Any tips to avoid kinking/deforming when bending? I have bitpower tubes and bitspower silicon supposedly designed for their tubing. Sometimes I get very clean bends and then on the same tube I get a deformed bend. Very annoying.
> 
> Does it matter how hot or quickly I heat the tube and/or bend them?


Yes, heating the tube properly (also known as SLOWLY) and evenly across the bend area is needed. Anytime you shape a material, it expands, this is true even of aluminum. It may not even be noticeable but it does happen. You'll want to heat it a good inch or two past the actual bend that you're doing, and do so slowly, could take up toward a full minute or so. You don't want to force the bend, rather, it needs to be so hot that it starts to barely bend on it's own, then you go in for the bend, and hold it until it cools.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Yes, heating the tube properly (also known as SLOWLY) and evenly across the bend area is needed. Anytime you shape a material, it expands, this is true even of aluminum. It may not even be noticeable but it does happen. You'll want to heat it a good inch or two past the actual bend that you're doing, and do so slowly, could take up toward a full minute or so. You don't want to force the bend, rather, it needs to be so hot that it starts to barely bend on it's own, then you go in for the bend, and hold it until it cools.


This.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/10/31/alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755-pump-review/


]

interesting results, but nothing drastic enough to warrant people swapping out their older D5's for this unless they're doing a complete rebuild with almost all new components.


----------



## VSG

The noise difference is actually larger in my tests, so with the added performance the performance/noise of the VPP755 is significantly better. As f_f said in the review, you can do voltage control as well to get more fine tuning but I imagine the knob will be the most popular means of control here. I don't personally mind having this at 5, whereas the D5 Vario I generally keep at 3-4.

Different thickness O-rings can help with the new EK D5 tops (Revo) but the older square tops from EK are not going to work at all unless you machine a different thickness holding bracket. Of course Alphacool would rather you use their top, which is pretty good too.

Reliability will be key here, as the Swiftech MCP30/MCP50X has not proven to be very reliable in the long run across multiple samples.


----------



## greg1184

Thanks guys. Got more tubing coming so I will try again.


----------



## SQZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Yes, heating the tube properly (also known as SLOWLY) and evenly across the bend area is needed. Anytime you shape a material, it expands, this is true even of aluminum. It may not even be noticeable but it does happen. You'll want to heat it a good inch or two past the actual bend that you're doing, and do so slowly, could take up toward a full minute or so. You don't want to force the bend, rather, it needs to be so hot that it starts to barely bend on it's own, then you go in for the bend, and hold it until it cools.


If I may join this conversation. Do you use any additional tools to get exact bends such as Monsoons bending kit?

I use the XSPC 90° plastic tool, but I think it kind of squeezes and forces the tube too much. But it might as well be because of my missing experience.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQZY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Yes, heating the tube properly (also known as SLOWLY) and evenly across the bend area is needed. Anytime you shape a material, it expands, this is true even of aluminum. It may not even be noticeable but it does happen. You'll want to heat it a good inch or two past the actual bend that you're doing, and do so slowly, could take up toward a full minute or so. You don't want to force the bend, rather, it needs to be so hot that it starts to barely bend on it's own, then you go in for the bend, and hold it until it cools.
> 
> 
> 
> If I may join this conversation. Do you use any additional tools to get exact bends such as Monsoons bending kit?
> 
> I use the XSPC 90° plastic tool, but I think it kind of squeezes and forces the tube too much. But it might as well be because of my missing experience.
Click to expand...

If it's "forcing" the tube, you're likely not heating it enough.









I use the monsoon kit for this reason. If I feel any resistance, I back off and apply more heat.









~Ceadder


----------



## greg1184

I have to say I appreciate you guys' recommendation on the Darkskde UV lights. They blow those damn cathodes out of the water. I tested the color in my reservoir capped.





It came out glorious. The lights provide a nice purple sheen as well.

Now I have to hunker down and make the tubing. ?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQZY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Yes, heating the tube properly (also known as SLOWLY) and evenly across the bend area is needed. Anytime you shape a material, it expands, this is true even of aluminum. It may not even be noticeable but it does happen. You'll want to heat it a good inch or two past the actual bend that you're doing, and do so slowly, could take up toward a full minute or so. You don't want to force the bend, rather, it needs to be so hot that it starts to barely bend on it's own, then you go in for the bend, and hold it until it cools.
> 
> 
> 
> If I may join this conversation. Do you use any additional tools to get exact bends such as Monsoons bending kit?
> 
> I use the XSPC 90° plastic tool, but I think it kind of squeezes and forces the tube too much. But it might as well be because of my missing experience.
Click to expand...

I do use the metric Monsoon bending kit. There is a little bit of a learning curve, but I refuse to hand bend my tubes, because hand bent 99.9% of the time look awful.

The biggest point I can give is that you must be patient. This is a craft, not unlike any other trade work. Rushed process=bad results. I use a heat gun I got a few years ago from Microcenter. It was 15 bucks, and I heat using the lowest setting. I then go back and forth down the tube, twisting the tube back and forth the whole time to make sure that I heat the entire tube. As soon as the tubing becomes malleable I take it to the jig and hold it on either side of the tube into the jig for a good minute or so to allow the tube to cool and harden in the desired bend.

Like I said it's a learning curve, and people may not feel like they're rushing the whole process until they learn how the tube behaves under optimal conditions. After that, you just kind of repeat your steps every time and you get better and better at it.

If you feel frustrated, don't be. It took me 3 feet to get one section right the first time. After that I was nailing it almost every time after that until I got better. Tubing is dirt cheap and learning to do it right is better than just giving up or going with hand bends.

And one last thing: be confident. Everyone can do this, it just takes some patience and learning as you go.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQZY*
> 
> If I may join this conversation. Do you use any additional tools to get exact bends such as Monsoons bending kit?
> 
> I use the XSPC 90° plastic tool, but I think it kind of squeezes and forces the tube too much. But it might as well be because of my missing experience.


I found that my bends where I heated the tube over a wider area stopped this from happening with my 90 degree hand bends.


----------



## LiquidHaus

the key is to figure out where the apex of the bend will be, and heat up an inch and half in both directions of that.

you need broad target on where your heat gun hits the tubing.

ps sneak peak on a little project i'm doing at work...





who needs hard drives when you can have more radiator space?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> the key is to figure out where the apex of the bend will be, and heat up an inch and half in both directions of that.
> 
> you need broad target on where your heat gun hits the tubing.:


Yes, and THIS is the most difficult thing. Bending itself is pretty straightforward... providing you heat the tube up enough and over a wide enough area, practice gets you there in no time really. With a single bend though you can just trim the tube either end, no big deal. What is invariably the real challenge though is when you have two bends on the same length of tube, as the second has to be near millimetre accurate, otherwise it won't line up at all, or end up pulling or pushing your tube so it's no longer running on a straight line.

To illustrate for anyone new to this, in this pic of my build, the circled bend had to be EXACTLY right... if I bent it too early or too late, even by a few mm, it would push the whole tube up or pull it down, therefore giving me a sloping tube on the horizontal run at the top, which would have totally ruined the aesthetic. This is where the mandrels come in to their own, and accurate measurements... it's damn near impossible to do this purely by eye, unless you're some kind of mystical bending guru. Of course, this kind of perfection won't matter to everyone... unless you're WAYYY out it will still work, but the way I see it, a big reason for doing a custom loop in the first place is the aesthetic, so in my builds I personally won't settle for anything less.


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Yes, and THIS is the most difficult thing. Bending itself is pretty straightforward... providing you heat the tube up enough and over a wide enough area, practice gets you there in no time really. With a single bend though you can just trim the tube either end, no big deal. What is invariably the real challenge though is when you have two bends on the same length of tube, as the second has to be near millimetre accurate, otherwise it won't line up at all, or end up pulling or pushing your tube so it's no longer running on a straight line.
> 
> To illustrate for anyone new to this, in this pic of my build, the circled bend had to be EXACTLY right... if I bent it too early or too late, even by a few mm, it would push the whole tube up or pull it down, therefore giving me a sloping tube on the horizontal run at the top, which would have totally ruined the aesthetic. This is where the mandrels come in to their own, and accurate measurements... it's damn near impossible to do this purely by eye, unless you're some kind of mystical bending guru. Of course, this kind of perfection won't matter to everyone... unless you're WAYYY out it will still work, but the way I see it, a big reason for doing a custom loop in the first place is the aesthetic, so in my builds I personally won't settle for anything less.


Yeah. All these are pretty useful as I'm gonna do a hard lined closed loop in a couple of weeks also. Gonna upgrade my soft tubes. I have a question though. Do you think I might have trouble without those 90degrees fittings going out of the reservoir and rad? I haven't ordered any of these, just the normal fittings.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*


Guys, im going with full hard line + 2 valves soon. Any ideas how i should route the tubes?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, im going with full hard line + 2 valves soon. Any ideas how i should route the tubes?


your setup is very simple and straight forward, just a bunch of L bends will do.

a small double L bend from the Res to the Pump,
then another double bend from the pump to the CPU
then another L bend from CPU to video card,
and then another double bend from Video card to Rad,
and it completes off with another double bend from Rad to Res


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> your setup is very simple and straight forward, just a bunch of L bends will do.
> 
> a small double L bend from the Res to the Pump,
> then another double bend from the pump to the CPU
> then another L bend from CPU to video card,
> and then another double bend from Video card to Rad,
> and it completes off with another double bend from Rad to Res


That's what confuses me. Shouldn't for example the last part "Rad to Res" be atleast a triple bend and that's with a 90 degree fitting on the rad because the rad and the res are on different positions on the Z (depth) axis?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> That's what confuses me. Shouldn't for example the last part "Rad to Res" be atleast a triple bend and that's with a 90 degree fitting on the rad because the rad and the res are on different positions on the Z (depth) axis?


His stuff area lined up quite nicely, very easy to work with.
The trick is getting the bends just right with a tube just long enough to make a big L top down, then another L from the "down" to left (X,Y axis as you said)
and yes both should use a 90 degree fitting


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> His stuff area lined up quite nicely, very easy to work with.
> The trick is getting the bends just right with a tube just long enough to make a big L top down, then another L from the "down" to left (X,Y axis as you said)
> and yes both should use a 90 degree fitting


Yes you're right, now that I am rendering it in my brain with two 90 degree fittings, it's only a double bend.
Damn, I need some 90 degrees too then. And maybe a 45 too.
Gets harder when the GPU is not in the loop and you have to go around it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, im going with full hard line + 2 valves soon. Any ideas how i should route the tubes?


2 valves? how come?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Yes, and THIS is the most difficult thing. Bending itself is pretty straightforward... providing you heat the tube up enough and over a wide enough area, practice gets you there in no time really. With a single bend though you can just trim the tube either end, no big deal. What is invariably the real challenge though is when you have two bends on the same length of tube, as the second has to be near millimetre accurate, otherwise it won't line up at all, or end up pulling or pushing your tube so it's no longer running on a straight line.
> 
> To illustrate for anyone new to this, in this pic of my build, the circled bend had to be EXACTLY right... if I bent it too early or too late, even by a few mm, it would push the whole tube up or pull it down, therefore giving me a sloping tube on the horizontal run at the top, which would have totally ruined the aesthetic. This is where the mandrels come in to their own, and accurate measurements... it's damn near impossible to do this purely by eye, unless you're some kind of mystical bending guru. Of course, this kind of perfection won't matter to everyone... unless you're WAYYY out it will still work, but the way I see it, a big reason for doing a custom loop in the first place is the aesthetic, so in my builds I personally won't settle for anything less.


Then I must a nutty mystic then. Instead I was using the square pattern on the carpet to do my 90 degree bends.








I actual half way through bending my tubes got fed up with the mandrels.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Then I must a nutty mystic then. Instead I was using the square pattern on the carpet to do my 90 degree bends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actual half way through bending my tubes got fed up with the mandrels.


I use the squares on my cutting mat to do my 90's, never 100% perfect but most the time come out near enough.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 2 valves? how come?


Good question, that is a very simple loop.
but I can see how he could use 2 valves

1 for the top to let air in
1 for the bottom to drain the fluid out


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Then I must a nutty mystic then. Instead I was using the square pattern on the carpet to do my 90 degree bends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actual half way through bending my tubes got fed up with the mandrels.


A single bend is easy, I can do that by eye... I mean measuring for a second bend so it PRECISELY lines up with where you want it to go, as in my picture. If you can do THAT by eye without knowing the exact distance/measurement you need to cover, then hats off to you sir.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> A single bend is easy, I can do that by eye... I mean measuring for a second bend so it PRECISELY lines up with where you want it to go, as in my picture. If you can do THAT by eye without knowing the exact distance/measurement you need to cover, then hats off to you sir.


Use a ruler as guide and to measure the distance needed.
leave enough slack at the end of the tube so you can cut off the excess tube,
then cut and plug into the fitting.

as for the X / Y axis you can eye ball it,
as long as one L bend in the X axis is perpendicular to the other L bend in the Y axis you'll be fine.

if you really want a perfect alignment you can always use some extra hands like these homedepot craps to keep the other end of the tube in place
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.4-piece-hands-free-locking-plier-grip-set.1000859315.html
while you work on the new L bend

you can always use some heavy books like a phone book, or a thick bible, or some encyclopedias to keep the tube in place while you work on the other end of the tube.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Use a ruler as guide and to measure the distance needed.
> *leave enough slack at the end of the tube so you can cut off the excess tube,*
> then cut and plug into the fitting.


I think this personally, is the only thing needed for a good bend.

The Slack or extra tubing at the end of a bend is perfect so you can trim the tube to fit as needed. A 90 degree bend is easy and can be done on the edge of a counter.

Trying to cut a tube to length and then bend it to fit perfectly without slack is climbing a hill in shoes with no soles.

TCO


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnepCYuSj

https://imageshack.com/i/po3NGkNHj










Grabbed a new 1080 block so i guess i'm back on water!.


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Grabbed a new 1080 block so i guess i'm back on water!.


Nice!! Great looking block. I was thinking of doing the same but I'm gonna stay with air for the GPU until probably 1080ti.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Need to snag a block for my 970 SSC card, just wish I could find a straight copper (acetal or plexi)


----------



## SQZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I do use the metric Monsoon bending kit. There is a little bit of a learning curve, but I refuse to hand bend my tubes, because hand bent 99.9% of the time look awful.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest point I can give is that you must be patient. This is a craft, not unlike any other trade work. Rushed process=bad results. I use a heat gun I got a few years ago from Microcenter. It was 15 bucks, and I heat using the lowest setting. I then go back and forth down the tube, twisting the tube back and forth the whole time to make sure that I heat the entire tube. As soon as the tubing becomes malleable I take it to the jig and hold it on either side of the tube into the jig for a good minute or so to allow the tube to cool and harden in the desired bend.
> 
> Like I said it's a learning curve, and people may not feel like they're rushing the whole process until they learn how the tube behaves under optimal conditions. After that, you just kind of repeat your steps every time and you get better and better at it.
> 
> If you feel frustrated, don't be. It took me 3 feet to get one section right the first time. After that I was nailing it almost every time after that until I got better. Tubing is dirt cheap and learning to do it right is better than just giving up or going with hand bends.
> 
> And one last thing: be confident. Everyone can do this, it just takes some patience and learning as you go
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I found that my bends where I heated the tube over a wider area stopped this from happening with my 90 degree hand bends.


Thank you for the load of information! I'll try to do it like you suggested and see how works. I ordered some special fittings to make it a bit easier too as space is pretty tight in my case. My last bends were not really satisfying and I have basically wasted 2 80cm tubes. Can't wait for the weekend to build my loop.


----------



## sub0seals

I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong,first, 2 bends, soon as I try to bend after heating the PETG tubing it gets a crease in the bottom angle of the bend every time,what am I doing,not enough heat,too much??


----------



## emsj86

Sounds like maybe not enough heat. Also are you using a correct size silicon insert. Make sure you are rotating the tube while you heat the tube and do a slow bend, meaning once you heated it enough where literally the tube will bend over on itself make the bend slow and don't just jerk or fast into the bend you want. If you still have trouble try posting a video and I'm sure someone can see what exactly is going on


----------



## LiquidHaus

Yeah either you aren't using a silicone insert, or the right size insert, or you're bending too fast without heat being distributed evenly around the PETG.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not enough heat applied and working too fast.









I did that one time and after that I went too long and bubbled a section. I basically used one full tube for practicing bending to see what was what. This way I could limit the amount of failures for bending my loop. Still not done but at least I know what I was in for. Still hung up, due to family issues stalling my Case mod.









I recommend to all first time benders to sacrifice at least 1 tube but no more than 2 in order to get an idea of what they are up against.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

The tube should literally if not held up by both hands fall over. Worst case make a video like I said nothing special that way we have a better idea of what is happening


----------



## Ceadderman

Could also be heating too far away from the heatgun, which would make sense too because I noticed when I was too far away it felt nearly unbearable on the hands and made me want to remove the tube from the heat and apply it to the mandrel I was working with. Thankfully I didn't and remembered the advice that emsj is giving above. If it isn't the consistency of spaghetti at the bend, then it's not fully heated.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

yup, just wear thicket gloves, and wait until the tubes are like spaghetti


----------



## rathborne

Hi guys, sorry to change subject for a second... on a Phobya UC-2 LT CPU waterblock is the direction of the water as indicated by the inlet/outlet arrows important?


(Image from TweakTown's review: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6567/phobya-pure-performance-kit-240lt-cpu-cooler-review/index3.html)

I needed to change the tube routing last night to remove some rotary fittings that I'm worried might leak but I completely forgot about the directional arrows.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Hi guys, sorry to change subject for a second... on a Phobya UC-2 LT CPU waterblock is the direction of the water as indicated by the inlet/outlet arrows important?
> 
> 
> (Image from TweakTown's review: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6567/phobya-pure-performance-kit-240lt-cpu-cooler-review/index3.html)
> 
> I needed to change the tube routing last night to remove some rotary fittings that I'm worried might leak but I completely forgot about the directional arrows.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1016726/does-it-matter-which-one-is-inlet-outlet-in-cpu-block

YES


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> A single bend is easy, I can do that by eye... I mean measuring for a second bend so it PRECISELY lines up with where you want it to go, as in my picture. If you can do THAT by eye without knowing the exact distance/measurement you need to cover, then hats off to you sir.


I did a three bends without mandrels using the squares on the carpet and by eye.

No ruler involved.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I did a three bends without mandrels using the squares on the carpet and by eye.
> 
> No ruler involved.


While there is nothing wrong with what you've done there, it does kind of prove my point... your tube going in to the right of the CPU is clearly not totally straight on the upwards length before the turn in to the CPU block. Now of course this doesn't matter in respect to function, or even the aesthetic to some people, but my point was simply that if you DID want it perfectly perpendicular and straight, it would require a far more precise measurement.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> His concern is not knowing if one of his two pumps fail. There would still be circulation on one pump, just less pressure. That's what the pressure gauge is for. I think it's a good idea to explore, and could even look cool.
> 
> Glad to hear you didn't fry your cpu though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> That is what I mean. Thanks man. Oufff... My english is very bad. Sorry about that.


It's just that a simple gauge like that even one in the correct range will not show any difference if the loop is running on one pump or two, or even running at all. It's maybe hard to understand at first but it's all in the difference between differential pressure and normal static pressure.
When testing pumps we use differential meters because a normal static meter like the one above will only tell you how full the loop is, not how fast it's flowing.

That's why we can open the top of a res with the system running. If the whole loop was under pressure it would pop like a cork and coolant shoot everywhere.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It's just that a simple gauge like that even one in the correct range will not show any difference if the loop is running on one pump or two, or even running at all. It's maybe hard to understand at first but it's all in the difference between differential pressure and normal static pressure.
> When testing pumps we use differential meters because a normal static meter like the one above will only tell you how full the loop is, not how fast it's flowing.
> 
> That's why we can open the top of a res with the system running. If the whole loop was under pressure it would pop like a cork and coolant shoot everywhere.


Good to see you back Jak


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It's just that a simple gauge like that even one in the correct range will not show any difference if the loop is running on one pump or two, or even running at all. It's maybe hard to understand at first but it's all in the difference between differential pressure and normal static pressure.
> When testing pumps we use differential meters because a normal static meter like the one above will only tell you how full the loop is, not how fast it's flowing.
> 
> That's why we can open the top of a res with the system running. If the whole loop was under pressure it would pop like a cork and coolant shoot everywhere.


That makes total sense. Best bet would be to use RPM sensor tool then methinks.


----------



## greg1184

Maybe I am used to compression fittings but are the acryllic tubes supposed to come out of the fitting if pulled despite being screwed on? I have bitspower fittings and tubing.


----------



## prznar1

Thx for all input and info about my options in loop.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Maybe I am used to compression fittings but are the acryllic tubes supposed to come out of the fitting if pulled despite being screwed on? I have bitspower fittings and tubing.


It is quite normal for you to be able to pull the tube out of a hard-line compression fitting.
How much effort required is largely what makes a fitting and tube combo compatible.
I consider anything over 10 PSI a good match.

Bitspower 12mm EML and CL tube test


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1016726/does-it-matter-which-one-is-inlet-outlet-in-cpu-block
> 
> YES


Thanks for that link. Ended up rotating the block and fixing the tubing this evening. While some people were saying it only makes a few degrees difference it was the potential damage by pushing on the jet flow plate in the wrong direction that made me redo it.


----------



## shonik09

Just thought I'd add some pics of my build too












Specs:

Enthoo Evolv ATX TG Case
Asus Deluxe II X99
i7 6850k @ 4.5 (1.42v)
Titan XP
Trident Z 64GB RAM
Corsair RM1000i PSU
Hue+
512GB 950 Pro

Loop:
EK PETG 16/12 tubing
EK XE 360 front rad
Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 top rad
EK-XRES-140
EK D5 PWM V2
EK Asus X99 monoblock
EK Titan XP full block + backplate


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It is quite normal for you to be able to pull the tube out of a hard-line compression fitting.
> How much effort required is largely what makes a fitting and tube combo compatible.
> I consider anything over 10 PSI a good match.
> 
> Bitspower 12mm EML and CL tube test


Thanks for that. Clearly not in soft tube land anymore. ?


----------



## kariverson

Sometimes I think "What have I gotten myself into!" with watercooling.

Just finished today the 24h testing cicle for the soft tubes and I was about to mount the motherboard so I can mount the cpu waterblock and finish the build. But my hardline stuff decided to come much earlier than expected. Sp when I was about to install the motherboard I hear the doorbell.
Afterwards I was a bit lost. In my mind I was planing to run soft tubes for a couple of weeks and upgrade to 270photon/d5 and hard lining. But Now I have the hard tubes and all but lack the upgraded res I wanted.
After the mind**** I received UI decided to keep the soft tubes for a couple of weeks after all until the new res arrives.

Iy's hard to stop and say yeah that's it I'm done. You want to keep upgrading.


----------



## shonik09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> Sometimes I think "What have I gotten myself into!" with watercooling.
> 
> Just finished today the 24h testing cicle for the soft tubes and I was about to mount the motherboard so I can mount the cpu waterblock and finish the build. But my hardline stuff decided to come much earlier than expected. Sp when I was about to install the motherboard I hear the doorbell.
> Afterwards I was a bit lost. In my mind I was planing to run soft tubes for a couple of weeks and upgrade to 270photon/d5 and hard lining. But Now I have the hard tubes and all but lack the upgraded res I wanted.
> After the mind**** I received UI decided to keep the soft tubes for a couple of weeks after all until the new res arrives.
> 
> Iy's hard to stop and say yeah that's it I'm done. You want to keep upgrading.


This is exactly how I felt too. I knew I'd want to go hard (







) as soon as I saw how good HD tubing looked, so went all in to begin with on that. But then other things came up - another radiator, 90 degree fittings, etc... Ended up taking me way longer than initially planned, but pretty happy with the results now.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It's just that a simple gauge like that even one in the correct range will not show any difference if the loop is running on one pump or two, or even running at all. It's maybe hard to understand at first but it's all in the difference between differential pressure and normal static pressure.
> When testing pumps we use differential meters because a normal static meter like the one above will only tell you how full the loop is, not how fast it's flowing.
> 
> That's why we can open the top of a res with the system running. If the whole loop was under pressure it would pop like a cork and coolant shoot everywhere.


Yeah it is hard to understand. But we are on the right way.








A pump produces liquid movement or flow: *it does not generate pressure*. It produces the flow necessary for the development of pressure which is a function of resistance to fluid flow in the system. For example, the pressure of the fluid at the pump outlet is zero for a pump not connected to a system (load). Further, for a pump delivering into a system, the pressure will rise only to the level necessary to overcome the resistance of the load.

You are right. I just installed a manometer at the end of the drain valve to see what happens:

The drain valve is connected in the Inlet of the reservoir. If the pumps running normal, it shows 0,1 bar. With the 100% Pump Power it shows under 0, negative value...

But what you mean is differential pressure manometer right?
Like this


Can I check with a differential pressure gauge if two pumps work or not?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Yeah it is hard to understand. But we are on the right way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pump produces liquid movement or flow: *it does not generate pressure*. It produces the flow necessary for the development of pressure which is a function of resistance to fluid flow in the system. For example, the pressure of the fluid at the pump outlet is zero for a pump not connected to a system (load). Further, for a pump delivering into a system, the pressure will rise only to the level necessary to overcome the resistance of the load.
> 
> You are right. I just installed a manometer at the end of the drain valve to see what happens:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drain valve is connected in the Inlet of the reservoir. If the pumps running normal, it shows 0,1 bar. With the 100% Pump Power it shows under 0, negative value...
> 
> But what you mean is differential pressure manometer right?
> Like this
> 
> 
> Can I check with a differential pressure gauge if two pumps work or not?


Good to see you bak Jak









A differential pressure gauge as you pictured is OK so long as the scale is readable for the expected reading.
Often readings are below 1 PSI, so a 30PSI scaled gauge wouldn't be suitable for accurate readings.
Either go digital, or be prepared to acquire a range of different scaled analogue gauges.

What we are measuring is the difference between the inlet port and outlet port at varying flow rates.
When measuring components like blocks or rads, what is being measured is the pressure drop across the ports at a given flow rate.
For pump set-ups we are determining the available pressure a given flow rate for that pump and pump top combo.
With that data, we can then compare it against other pump/top combos to evaluate performance against each other...
i.e. different pumps in the same top OR same pump with different tops.

Excuse the horrible lighting, but pictured here is my restriction test bench used for everything inc radiators, blocks and pumps











With the data taken we make plots to compare results


----------



## ejohnson

I got a ncase m1, put in a 240mm rad, then hardlined it.

But, the other day I got a gtx1080 and want to put that into the loop. So I need to get some hardline and some more fittings.

I do have a question for those who know. Im going to put the 1080 in the same loop as the cpu using the same 240mm radiator. Should the gpu be first in line after the radiator? I would do another radiator, but I have hdds and a fan controller on bottom of the case.

gpu->cpu->radiator->back to gpu


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ejohnson*
> 
> I got a ncase m1, put in a 240mm rad, then hardlined it.
> 
> But, the other day I got a gtx1080 and want to put that into the loop. So I need to get some hardline and some more fittings.
> 
> I do have a question for those who know. Im going to put the 1080 in the same loop as the cpu using the same 240mm radiator. Should the gpu be first in line after the radiator? I would do another radiator, but I have hdds and a fan controller on bottom of the case.
> 
> gpu->cpu->radiator->back to gpu


Doesn't matter, go with whatever gives you the best/easiest routing of the tubes.

The only thing that matters is that the reservoir feeds the pump directly.


----------



## ejohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Doesn't matter, go with whatever gives you the best/easiest routing of the tubes.
> 
> The only thing that matters is that the reservoir feeds the pump directly.


Having the res feed the pump wasnt a option for me









I am using the swiftech appogee pump/block on a ROG impact viii. There is only a single orientation that the pump/head fits (all others either hit soundcard, daughter board or ram) So the inlet is on the top, pulling from the radiator, into the cpu, then into the res, then back to the rad. It was a super pain in the butt to bleed the air out.

Im going to be trying some air cooling things for the gpu before I commit to putting the gpu under water. My 1080 runs at around 80-82 degrees right now, while I know its fine, im not too happy with that.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shonik09*
> 
> Just thought I'd add some pics of my build too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> 
> Enthoo Evolv ATX TG Case
> Asus Deluxe II X99
> i7 6850k @ 4.5 (1.42v)
> Titan XP
> Trident Z 64GB RAM
> Corsair RM1000i PSU
> Hue+
> 512GB 950 Pro
> 
> Loop:
> EK PETG 16/12 tubing
> EK XE 360 front rad
> Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 top rad
> EK-XRES-140
> EK D5 PWM V2
> EK Asus X99 monoblock
> EK Titan XP full block + backplate


What temps are you getting under load?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> While there is nothing wrong with what you've done there, it does kind of prove my point... your tube going in to the right of the CPU is clearly not totally straight on the upwards length before the turn in to the CPU block. Now of course this doesn't matter in respect to function, or even the aesthetic to some people, but my point was simply that if you DID want it perfectly perpendicular and straight, it would require a far more precise measurement.


Yeah, it not dead on perfect, but I wanted the computer together since its my main rig. It looked good enough to me. I will be redoing everything any way when I drop the X99 system in and planning on routing the tubes different.


----------



## shonik09

Well atm with this overclock, it's around 75 max on cores, and 80 on the packet, but those are temps under load with intel burn test so a bit extreme. Idle is mid 20s, I guess gaming load is mid 40s to low 50s. On stock I was getting low 50s on IBT.

GPU gets to mid 40s max with an OC applied, turbos to 2066 with 11GHz on RAM.


----------



## Noxide400

This is my water build.










Specs:
Mobo - Asus Z170 Gene VIII
CPU - i7 6700k
GFX - EVGA 980ti
PSU - 850 Sea Sonic X-Series
Mem - GSkill Trident Z 3200mhz 16gb
HDD - Samsung Evo 256GB & WD Black 1TB
Rad: Phobya 200mm & Black Ice 120mm (very old.. Dangerden era)

Next is custom cables.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noxide400*
> 
> This is my water build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Mobo - Asus Z170 Gene VIII
> CPU - i7 6700k
> GFX - EVGA 980ti
> PSU - 850 Sea Sonic X-Series
> Mem - GSkill Trident Z 3200mhz 16gb
> HDD - Samsung Evo 256GB & WD Black 1TB
> Rad: Phobya 200mm & Black Ice 120mm (very old.. Dangerden era)
> 
> Next is custom cables.


That looks sweet. Nice and compact. What case is it? Is that a custom window?


----------



## Noxide400

Thank you. The case is a Silverstone TJ08-E (180mm front fan). Yes I added the window to the side panel. I've had acrylic side windows before and I didn't like how they scratched. So I used glass. But this is no ordanry glass. I salvaged the glass off of an Epson printer that I wanted to "Office space" it for a long time. I figured that the glass from a printer should be very hard to break so I thought I'd go for it. It's mounted with very strong 3M mounting tape.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noxide400*
> 
> Thank you. The case is a Silverstone TJ08-E (180mm front fan). Yes I added the window to the side panel. I've had acrylic side windows before and I didn't like how they scratched. So I used glass. But this is no ordanry glass. I salvaged the glass off of an Epson printer that I wanted to "Office space" it for a long time. I figured that the glass from a printer should be very hard to break so I thought I'd go for it. It's mounted with very strong 3M mounting tape.


That is a really cool idea.

I just used a regular piece of glass for my TJ07, but the glass from your Epson printer is likely tempered, so it should be very strong and resistant to breaking.
I'll have to remember that, the next time I'm ready to chuck my old printer!

The build looks great, nice case size, yet well-equipped.

Rep+


----------



## AllGamer

That is super compact,
I'm surprised everything fit inside that case, specially the reservoir









makes me ponder, how to fit all the stuff inside some old mATX cases that were not designed for watercooling


----------



## greg1184

Thank you guys for your help and advice. My first acrylic build. It was a pain in the ass with tubes falling, leaks, and rebending over and over, but it's worthwhile.


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Thank you guys for your help and advice. My first acrylic build. It was a pain in the ass with tubes falling, leaks, and rebending over and over, but it's worthwhile.


Awesomely done! Great double and triple bends! Those looks hard to do indeed! And a nice example for me that will do hard line soon with XSPC products also. Can you specify if possible which 90 degree fitting did you use on the reservoir? I'll probably need a couple too.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Thank you guys for your help and advice. My first acrylic build. It was a pain in the ass with tubes falling, leaks, and rebending over and over, but it's worthwhile.


Very good bendings, it looks very good. It is hard to bend 3 times. Great job with passion!


----------



## Alperen62002

Finally.. A bigger desk... My "Master"desk for my Mastercase


----------



## 0ldChicken

So i got a release email from alphacool. It appears they are still marketing their new vpp755 pumps as compatible with all d5 tops and brackets? After independent reviews found different results? I'm a little butthurt, I really wanted to get a pair for my new(used) CSQ dual top. Now I feel like they're just rubbing it in my face


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> So i got a release email from alphacool. It appears they are still marketing their new vpp755 pumps as compatible with all d5 tops and brackets? After independent reviews found different results? I'm a little butthurt, I really wanted to get a pair for my new(used) CSQ dual top. Now I feel like they're just rubbing it in my face


write same here http://www.overclock.net/t/1555411/alphacool-water-cooling-users-thread/300#post_25628301

guy from alphacool is replying there really often


----------



## VSG

Yeah, claiming universal compatibility is extremely hard to believe given they couldn't possibly have bought and tested compatibility with every single D5 top. Of the ~5 I have here, the two EK ones (square clean and new Revo) are not compatible no matter what. The Alphacool and XSPC ones are fine, and the stock Laing top is okay as well.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> Awesomely done! Great double and triple bends! Those looks hard to do indeed! And a nice example for me that will do hard line soon with XSPC products also. Can you specify if possible which 90 degree fitting did you use on the reservoir? I'll probably need a couple too.


Thanks! I'm still watching it carefully because the darn tubing likes to pull out (that's what she said), but so far so good. All of the fittings and tubing are Bitspower. The res is XSPC and the radiator is Alphacool.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> That is super compact,
> I'm surprised everything fit inside that case, specially the reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> makes me ponder, how to fit all the stuff mATX inside some old mATX ITX cases that were not designed for watercooling


FTFY.

And Im all about that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah, claiming universal compatibility is *extremely hard to believe given they couldn't possibly have bought and tested compatibility with every single D5 top*. Of the ~5 I have here, the two EK ones (square clean and new Revo) are not compatible no matter what. The Alphacool and XSPC ones are fine, and the stock Laing top is okay as well.


I dont do Alphastool but why not? Alphacool is Aquatuning,you think they wouldnt/couldnt just spring cash for a few tops? They could and should of tested but didnt....another fail in the long list of fail that is Alphastool.........


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Thanks! I'm still watching it carefully because the darn tubing likes to pull out (that's what she said), but so far so good. All of the fittings and tubing are Bitspower. The res is XSPC and the radiator is Alphacool.


Thanks! +Repped!
I for some reason tried to keep everything XSPC. Half because in my mind I thought everything would just fit better and half because OCD heh. I'll try to look into different 90 degree fittings. It's hard to really make an accurate prediction to what exactly you;re gonna need. Especially when there is nothing locally and have to wait 20 days for each part to arrive.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> Thanks! +Repped!
> I for some reason tried to keep everything XSPC. Half because in my mind I thought everything would just fit better and half because OCD heh. I'll try to look into different 90 degree fittings. It's hard to really make an accurate prediction to what exactly you;re gonna need. Especially when there is nothing locally and have to wait 20 days for each part to arrive.


Only things I made a point of keeping the same brand is the tubing and fittings for compatibility reasons since these are not compression fittings and tubes need to "lock".


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont do Alphastool but why not? Alphacool is Aquatuning,you think they wouldnt/couldnt just spring cash for a few tops? They could and should of tested but didnt....another fail in the long list of fail that is Alphastool.........


That's what I meant- if they had, they would have known about some tops not being compatible. They did not. Cash isn't the issue, effort and follow up was.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah, claiming universal compatibility is extremely hard to believe given they couldn't possibly have bought and tested compatibility with every single D5 top. Of the ~5 I have here, the two EK ones (square clean and new Revo) are not compatible no matter what. The Alphacool and XSPC ones are fine, and the stock Laing top is okay as well.


I got the Revo to seal, I mean the locking collar didn't turn many times, but it tightened down and compressed o-ring to make a seal.
Wet tested on pump speeds - no leaks, so I consider Revo compatible with the 755.

Not wanting to argue, not at all








I just I think people considering the pump (now or in the future) should know that it isn't a case of _not compatible no matter what_, because that was not the outcome I had.


----------



## VSG

Mine leaked at full speed









I tried multiple times but I could not get a good seal no matter what. This was the best fit I got:



and even here it is slightly angled on one side causing a small leak over time. I am just going to recommend treating this as a separate pump, use with Alphacool tops (which are pretty good as it is) and call it a day.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mine leaked at full speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried multiple times but I could not get a good seal no matter what. This was the best fit I got:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and even here it is slightly angled on one side causing a small leak over time. I am just going to recommend treating this as a separate pump, use with Alphacool tops (which are pretty good as it is) and call it a day.


Yeah, I'm not going to try test fitting any more, I got 5 to seal (out of 8 I think)
if buyers want to use their existing (non Alphacool) tops, it is probably best they test fit and run first before putting near a working system


----------



## prznar1

I think i could not do that in 5m with hard tubes











Ill stick to soft tubing. However i will shorten some of the bends









New part in my system is used gtx 970. Quite a jump from gtx 660. And live long my gpu core block. I think it would do for even gtx 1070 without oc and proper radiator over vrms. Inwin 303 is also a good case for such block. 3x fans blowing from bottom


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I think i could not do that in 5m with hard tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill stick to soft tubing. However i will shorten some of the bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New part in my system is used gtx 970. Quite a jump from gtx 660. And live long my gpu core block. I think it would do for even gtx 1070 without oc and proper radiator over vrms. Inwin 303 is also a good case for such block. 3x fans blowing from bottom


The tubing isn't the issue I see in that picture...









Why is the GPU block still attached? When was the last time you dusted? How often do you change fluids?

Nothing wrong with using soft tubing... I pretty much always plan to have one or two builds with it. However, better routing, some cable 'housecleaning' and some actual house cleaning will probably net you much better results. Also tube looks a little milky so I would worry about how much gunk might be in those blocks if they weren't cleaned in the past year.


----------



## prznar1

In proper light tubing is transparent. Fluid is new. like 4m old same as tubing. GPU block is still there because i didnt wanted to dissasamble whole loop. Its a temporary state. Running gtx 970 on air in case of any problems. If a seller wanted to screw me over. However the card is still on warranty







And i said that ill stick to soft tubing because i wanted to go to harder stuff ;D but nah. This is more flexible.


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's what I meant- if they had, they would have known about some tops not being compatible. They did not. Cash isn't the issue, effort and follow up was.


Good info, thanks.

Think barrow tops should work aswell since barrow has a strangely similiar (in terms of specs and looks) pump on offer. However barrow states on their website, that the pump is compatible with "most" D5 tops.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Good info, thanks.
> 
> Think barrow tops should work aswell since barrow has a strangely similiar (in terms of specs and looks) pump on offer. However barrow states on their website, that the pump is compatible with "most" D5 tops.


Oh really? Mind linking it?


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's what I meant- if they had, they would have known about some tops not being compatible. They did not. Cash isn't the issue, effort and follow up was.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh really? Mind linking it?


It's this one:

http://www.barrow.com.cn/index.php/Article/89.html

It has a similiar black collar and same lift height. Albeit power consumption and flow rate differ from alphacools. The manual speed dial is also missing but that might just be an aftermarket addition similiar as aquacomputers USB / aquabus D5s.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> In proper light tubing is transparent. Fluid is new. like 4m old same as tubing. GPU block is still there because i didnt wanted to dissasamble whole loop. Its a temporary state. Running gtx 970 on air in case of any problems. If a seller wanted to screw me over. However the card is still on warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i said that ill stick to soft tubing because i wanted to go to harder stuff ;D but nah. This is more flexible.


OK wasn't sure from that picture. I think because of the low-light noise in the picture it looks like there's way more dust than there actually is as well.

I didn't mean to sound critical, I figured you were not planning on leaving the GPU block hanging there forever... but that tubing (and the fact that it's a Z77 build) made me worried that it maybe hadn't had maintenance in a very long time and was about to go sideways on you. Glad to know it's not a problem!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> It's this one:
> 
> http://www.barrow.com.cn/index.php/Article/89.html
> 
> It has a similiar black collar and same lift height. Albeit power consumption and flow rate differ from alphacools. The manual speed dial is also missing but that might just be an aftermarket addition similiar as aquacomputers USB / aquabus D5s.


Interesting find.


----------



## Revan654

Can anyone help me real quick? I'm habing a small problem when bending, I'm trying to do a 90 degree bend. As soon as I start to bend I get some kind of bubble or gap (Not sure what to call it). I tried to bed slowly, quickly and everything in between. Used two different types of cords. I'm using Bitspower 16mm tubing. Any suggestions what to do?


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Can anyone help me real quick? I'm habing a small problem when bending, I'm trying to do a 90 degree bend. As soon as I start to bend I get some kind of bubble or gap (Not sure what to call it). I tried to bed slowly, quickly and everything in between. Used two different types of cords. I'm using Bitspower 16mm tubing. Any suggestions what to do?


Make sure you are not heating to fast and/or overheating. Overheating can cause blistering deformity on the tube. Use low or medium setting on the heat gun.


----------



## AllGamer

is that PETG or Acrylic ?

looks more like Acrylic than PETG

If it bubbles then you over heated it too much.

you need to heat evenly across a larger surface area, not just the 2 inch you plan to do the 90 degree bend.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> is that PETG or Acrylic ?
> 
> looks more like Acrylic than PETG
> 
> If it bubbles then you over heated it too much.
> 
> you need to heat evenly across a larger surface area, not just the 2 inch you plan to do the 90 degree bend.


Like I already said it's only when bending. I'll try larger area. I'm going use a different bending tool to see if that helps.

It's just seems like it's taking forever for tubing to get soft even at 1200.


----------



## Revan654

I got it:


----------



## ruffhi

nice bend ... but what did you do differently?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> nice bend ... but what did you do differently?


Larger heated area & used a different tool. I was using jigsaw tool from Barrow.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Good info, thanks.
> 
> Think barrow tops should work aswell since barrow has a strangely similiar (in terms of specs and looks) pump on offer. However barrow states on their website, that the pump is compatible with "most" D5 tops.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Interesting find.


The Barrow "D5" pump came to mind when writing up as I have a top of theirs, but not the pump.

I think it's more of a D5 clone than anything else.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The Barrow "D5" pump came to mind when writing up as I have a top of theirs, but not the pump.
> 
> *I think it's more of a D5 clone than anything else.*


This.

They have done the normal chinese thing of taking a existing design and changing the electromechanical side of it for manufacturing ease/cost. Hence no ceramic bearing etc.


----------



## TSXmike

Soon....


----------



## AllGamer

Congrats!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I got it:


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> and Finally this
> 
> 
> 
> If needed Sand paper.


What is this? Anyone have a link?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What is this? Anyone have a link?


Alphacool Acrylic Double Bending Tool 12-14mm and 16mm - Black


----------



## kariverson

So after days this is what I finished with (temporary)



I epicly ****ed up with the tubing not accounting for the GPU size. So that's why the velvet rope so it doesn't touch the hot backplate and melt the tube. Loop also looks weird because I'm a ****** and I wanted the waterblock to be second after the rad and not before.
In ~2 weeks I'll be hard tubing. and 2017 adding GPU.

The blue CPU led is placeholder for the red that should had been here by now.

Everything is whisper silent, except that god damn motherboard fan that breaks havoc. 20dB above everything else.

Idle temps fluctuate from 31 to 35 degrees. I have no idea if that's good or not.

Last comment, I have every fan in the case attached to the case included hub in the rear, and the hub I have it connected to the CPU fan. So every fan in the case fluctuates automatically with CPU temps. Pretty cool.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> So after days this is what I finished with (temporary)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I epicly ****ed up with the tubing not accounting for the GPU size. So that's why the velvet rope so it doesn't touch the hot backplate and melt the tube. Loop also looks weird because I'm a ****** and I wanted the waterblock to be second after the rad and not before.
> In ~2 weeks I'll be hard tubing. and 2017 adding GPU.
> 
> The blue CPU led is placeholder for the red that should had been here by now.
> 
> Everything is whisper silent, except that god damn motherboard fan that breaks havoc. 20dB above everything else.
> 
> Idle temps fluctuate from 31 to 35 degrees. I have no idea if that's good or not.
> 
> Last comment, I have every fan in the case attached to the case included hub in the rear, and the hub I have it connected to the CPU fan. So every fan in the case fluctuates automatically with CPU temps. Pretty cool.


can you mount that pump/res higher so in/out is level or above the card?

but hey, for me, first time, i was happy everything worked.


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> can you mount that pump/res higher so in/out is level or above the card?
> 
> but hey, for me, first time, i was happy everything worked.


Haha such an easy fix and it didn't even cross my mind. I'll do it tomorrow. Maybe not that high but definitely a bit higher. Thanks! +repped.


----------



## Ovrclck

Bad idea to replace CPU block while still in case? Just bought a supremacy evo. Trying not to remove everything if I don't have to.


----------



## mizer357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Bad idea to replace CPU block while still in case? Just bought a supremacy evo. Trying not to remove everything if I don't have to.


I have never had a problem with this. You just want to avoid liquid getting on your motherboard. Putting the case on it's side so the motherboard is perpendicular to the floor/surface will mitigate the risk.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizer357*
> 
> I have never had a problem with this. You just want to avoid liquid getting on your motherboard. Putting the case on it's side so the motherboard is perpendicular to the floor/surface will mitigate the risk.


Awesome idea. Thanks!


----------



## sli_shroom

finally finishing up the new build. moved out of a corsair and onto a praxis (and replaced most of the components at the same time). will be using it more of a case and not really as a test bench. lighting is rgb and can be changed via remote




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Bad idea to replace CPU block while still in case? Just bought a supremacy evo. Trying not to remove everything if I don't have to.


Where did you get your cables? I have the same power supply. I made my own VGA cables but might just buy the rest.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Where did you get your cables? I have the same power supply. I made my own VGA cables but might just buy the rest.


Bought them from EVGA

http://www.evga.com/Products/ProductList.aspx?type=10&family=Power+Supplies&chipset=+Power+Supply+Cable+Set+%28Individually+Sleeved%29


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> So after days this is what I finished with (temporary)
> 
> 
> 
> I epicly ****ed up with the tubing not accounting for the GPU size. So that's why the velvet rope so it doesn't touch the hot backplate and melt the tube. Loop also looks weird because I'm a ****** and I wanted the waterblock to be second after the rad and not before.
> In ~2 weeks I'll be hard tubing. and 2017 adding GPU.
> 
> The blue CPU led is placeholder for the red that should had been here by now.
> 
> Everything is whisper silent, except that god damn motherboard fan that breaks havoc. 20dB above everything else.
> 
> Idle temps fluctuate from 31 to 35 degrees. I have no idea if that's good or not.
> 
> Last comment, I have every fan in the case attached to the case included hub in the rear, and the hub I have it connected to the CPU fan. So every fan in the case fluctuates automatically with CPU temps. Pretty cool.


FYI your backplate won't melt your tubing. And you can always look into an Aquaero for the fan. Esp now there is a 6lt


----------



## alltheGHz

Alright boys,

I'm about to make a dedicated [email protected] rig, and I figured I might try to watercool it.

1) Do any of you guys have folding/mining rigs that are watercooled?

2) Can anyone give me a recommendation for an INEXPENSIVE option for watercooling the CPU?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Alright boys,
> 
> I'm about to make a dedicated [email protected] rig, and I figured I might try to watercool it.
> 
> 1) Do any of you guys have folding/mining rigs that are watercooled?
> 
> 2) Can anyone give me a recommendation for an INEXPENSIVE option for watercooling the CPU?


Don't do the traditional AIO coolers. I put a client on a Predator 240 and let his system Fold at Max. His i7-4790k didn't get above 50c the last two [email protected] That was with the Front Case fans(x2) at 100% and his Predator was at 80% speed. Not too loud and kept things relatively chilly. I use [email protected] to stress every build. Predators have come down in price since I purchased his over a month ago.









~Ceadder


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> FYI your backplate won't melt your tubing. And you can always look into an Aquaero for the fan. Esp now there is a 6lt


thing is it got really hot and bent on idle, that's why I thought prolonged touching especialy when gaming could melt it enough. :/

No worries for the fan, I found out in the Asus Rampage Iv club that there is a silent mode for it.


----------



## adriankiller

My last little update


----------



## rathborne

Hi guys, after looking at this thread daily for well over a year now I have finally completed my first custom loop!



Eventually I'll swap to PETG tubing but for now I'll leave it as is.

Its also my second case mod and will be running Linux for a bit to see how it is for gaming.



Thanks for your responses to previous requests for water-cooling help and advice







.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> So after days this is what I finished with (temporary)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I epicly ****ed up with the tubing not accounting for the GPU size. So that's why the velvet rope so it doesn't touch the hot backplate and melt the tube. Loop also looks weird because I'm a ****** and *I wanted the waterblock to be second after the rad and not before*.
> In ~2 weeks I'll be hard tubing. and 2017 adding GPU.
> 
> The blue CPU led is placeholder for the red that should had been here by now.
> 
> Everything is whisper silent, except that god damn motherboard fan that breaks havoc. 20dB above everything else.
> 
> Idle temps fluctuate from 31 to 35 degrees. I have no idea if that's good or not.
> 
> Last comment, I have every fan in the case attached to the case included hub in the rear, and the hub I have it connected to the CPU fan. *So every fan in the case fluctuates automatically with CPU temps.* Pretty cool.


Component order does not matter. Just keep your runs as short as possible and make it look pretty. Temps equalize regardless.

As far as fan speeds with cpu temp. Now this is personal preference but I have found setting up a fan curve with 2(maybe 3 with high ram fans) points aka low/high is less noticeable to the ears. Ramping up and down gets very distracting as you can hear the pitch change constantly. You also might want to use coolant temp instead of cpu temp as this will keep fan speeds from fluctuating as much.


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Component order does not matter. Just keep your runs as short as possible and make it look pretty. Temps equalize regardless.


Yeah I'll do that when I hard line.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> As far as fan speeds with cpu temp. Now this is personal preference but I have found setting up a fan curve with 2(maybe 3 with high ram fans) points aka low/high is less noticeable to the ears. Ramping up and down gets very distracting as you can hear the pitch change constantly. You also might want to use coolant temp instead of cpu temp as this will keep fan speeds from fluctuating as much.


I get what you mean. Although the only thing I hear in the case is the pump. The XSPC fans are pretty loud when maxed but the SilentWings 3 are ridiculously quiet. With open case with your ear close it, they are inaudible! I am planning to get 3 SilentWings for the rad also.
Right now I did not put any water sensors. I do not have the LCD display and I don't know how else I can monitor it. Now that I think of it I don't even know how to do get the fans to run on it. Step by step I'll figure stuff out when I install the sensors.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Don't do the traditional AIO coolers. I put a client on a Predator 240 and let his system Fold at Max. His i7-4790k didn't get above 50c the last two [email protected] That was with the Front Case fans(x2) at 100% and his Predator was at 80% speed. Not too loud and kept things relatively chilly. I use [email protected] to stress every build. Predators have come down in price since I purchased his over a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh wow I always thought they were much more expensive. Thank you for the recommendation


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Alright boys,
> 
> I'm about to make a dedicated [email protected] rig, and I figured I might try to watercool it.
> 
> 1) Do any of you guys have folding/mining rigs that are watercooled?
> 
> 2) Can anyone give me a recommendation for an INEXPENSIVE option for watercooling the CPU?


Most of the [email protected] team watercool their dedicated rigs due to the relatively consistent and cooler component temperatures you will get out of such. It helps prevent screaming fans (especially if you have an EVGA acx air cooled gpu, they tend to get rather noisy after 65% or so fan speeds), and you don't have to worry about fans dying out (gpu fans over the core tend to die relatively quickly when folding, typically around a year or so in when run at 80-90%).

You'll definitely want a bit more radiator than the "standard rule" (120mm per component then add another 120mm) people recommend due to the high heat load you will have, especially if you get a steady diet of the new core 21's as those will use noticeably more power, but they usually have a really sweet credit amount.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Alright boys,
> 
> I'm about to make a dedicated [email protected] rig, and I figured I might try to watercool it.
> 
> 1) Do any of you guys have folding/mining rigs that are watercooled?
> 
> 2) Can anyone give me a recommendation for an INEXPENSIVE option for watercooling the CPU?


Honestly, I'd never [email protected] on an air cooled rig, the noise is insane, you're stressing the rig out for long periods of time, so to keep it cool you need tonnes of air flow etc.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Actually the noise isn't insane at all as long as you use a good air cooler, from the looks of it you don't even run [email protected] (or not for OCN) so don't see where your input would be valid

I'm running air on my rigs while awaiting parts to get my 5930k back under water and the 970 SSC under water alongside the other 970 I have already blocked


----------



## Battle-Tech

*Custom Watercooled PC - Project Havok RED Beast*

Whats up guys and welcome to Project Havok RED Beast. This is my personal custom water cooled Computer I built back in 2011. I use it every day to edit videos, stream, work, and of course gaming. This beast has been running for the past 5 years and it's still going strong !!! Not even one hiccup. There is nothing I can't do on this overkill setup so I do not see any reasons why I should upgrade to a Sky lake or X99 setup. I am completely happy with how amazing this machine performs. Check it out, let me know what you all think and I hope you all enjoy it.
*
Visit my Tech YouTube Channel for videos on Project Havok RED Beast by clicking on the link below :*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgLpnqUnDlg










*For the Full Computer Parts List :*
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/7VtJ7P


----------



## emsj86

Someone help me with recommendation on a gtx 1070 that one has a water lock for it and two will over lock fairly well getting mixed answers so figured ask the people here as you always been good with help


----------



## LiquidHaus

some 909 goodness for ya guys.

just finished this up last week.


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> some 909 goodness for ya guys.
> 
> just finished this up last week.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm really liking the look of those black two tone rigid revolvers. I'm going to have to look for some of those.


----------



## greg1184

I been running my build with stress testing and BF1 and a couple of other games. The AlphaCool ST30 360 definitely cools better than my old XSPC EX360. Also I changed my thermal paste from Arctic Silver to Arctic MX4. Overall my system is running cooler, and my 1080 GPU doesn't run past ~42*C with a modest 100/500 overclock.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Most of the [email protected] team watercool their dedicated rigs due to the relatively consistent and cooler component temperatures you will get out of such. It helps prevent screaming fans (especially if you have an EVGA acx air cooled gpu, they tend to get rather noisy after 65% or so fan speeds), and you don't have to worry about fans dying out (gpu fans over the core tend to die relatively quickly when folding, typically around a year or so in when run at 80-90%).
> 
> You'll definitely want a bit more radiator than the "standard rule" (120mm per component then add another 120mm) people recommend due to the high heat load you will have, especially if you get a steady diet of the new core 21's as those will use noticeably more power, but they usually have a really sweet credit amount.


Yep, it is the only reason I water cool. [email protected] and BOINC can make hardware cook.









I actually run AIOs and a full custom loop. Cheap route is the AIOs. They do a darn good job too. I run a old H50 on my 1090T, H60 on my GTX960 clocked up to 1551MHz on the core, and a full custom loop with my 4770K and two 980Tis. The big cards can dump heat when doing [email protected], but even more so when doing certain BOINC projects.


----------



## mrteddy

2nd watercooled rig

i5 6600K
G.skill 16gb Ripjaws Z 3200mhz
ASUS Z170 Deluxe
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
Corsair HX850i
EK (and some alphacool) watercooling loop

still things to do

i call this build "greysale"


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrteddy*
> 
> 2nd watercooled rig
> 
> i5 6600K
> G.skill 16gb Ripjaws Z 3200mhz
> ASUS Z170 Deluxe
> EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
> Corsair HX850i
> EK (and some alphacool) watercooling loop
> 
> still things to do
> 
> i call this build "greysale"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build, nice case as well. Good job


----------



## 0ldChicken

As far as the vpp755's compatibility issues, AT said this in their forum thread:

"That EK Tops are EOL since a long time and of course they are not compatible because the current D5 from Laing/Loward would also not fit with that tops

The VPP ist compatible too all current tops wich are not older than 2011. That was the time as Laing changed a few small details on their D5 pump and all brands had to change their tops in this time"

Does this sound right? I haven't been in the loop that long but now I'm just hoping the CSQ top will work with the regular d5's I've got.
I'll look later today for a date code or something, is there an easy way to tell which d5 I have?


----------



## Trestles126

Any thoughts on the

XSPC EX360 Multiport Series Radiators? I need the options of a multi port to make a waterplate work in my s8 build my ekwb PEs will have to be swapped out of the front for these or something similar.

Dual loop system the front 360 and 240 will only be cooling dual 980tis

More concerned about finish and quality


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Any thoughts on the
> 
> XSPC EX360 Multiport Series Radiators? I need the options of a multi port to make a waterplate work in my s8 build my ekwb PEs will have to be swapped out of the front for these or something similar.
> 
> Dual loop system the front 360 and 240 will only be cooling dual 980tis
> 
> More concerned about finish and quality


Here you Go.

Review Time.

Personally have always chosen the RX Series. Never had a problem there.









TCO


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Here you Go.
> 
> Review Time.
> 
> Personally have always chosen the RX Series. Never had a problem there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thanks brother I thought about rx series but the thickness will get in the way of my waterplate I'm doing on the s8 mid chasi working with James at clockwerks he's already rendering my top s8 dual loop plate resivoir and now I'm designing the lower mid plate and its superrrr complicated especially when I don't do cad and going with the ol cardboard and crayola mock ups ha ha check out my build log should start coming together quick haven't had time with working 7-12s but James is quick and already rendering top res


----------



## Trestles126

Another question I'm putting a 240 rad in the front of the s8's left side cutting the midchasi support is already happening. I obviously can't utilize a 360 but I need to get my fittings down lower do to my waterplate being at 1/2 to 5/8s thick getting into the fittings.

I have a few options

1 spinning left 240 rad around and having fittings out the front and running 3 90s to down and around and back up to connect into waterplate.

2 buying a 240 multi port and running the bottom ports ( but also having to buy a 360 to match) already running 360 ek PE on flexbay side

3. Have another ek 360 for left side and the lower half won't get a fan and I'd only be utilizing the top 2 fans. ( other than the 3 fans as intake on the lower horizontal mount)

The 360 would get my fittings low enough to wear there would be no interference with waterplate

Just curious if the cooling would be the same or similar to a 240 being that the last fan slot would not be used do to the usb/on off switch in front.

Money wise it would be the cheapest solution and hidden rather than buying a bunch of fittings to manipulate down and under and back up the other side of the rad or buying 2 new Completly different branded rads


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Another question I'm putting a 240 rad in the front of the s8's left side cutting the midchasi support is already happening. I obviously can't utilize a 360 but I need to get my fittings down lower do to my waterplate being at 1/2 to 5/8s thick getting into the fittings.
> 
> I have a few options
> 
> 1 spinning left 240 rad around and having fittings out the front and running 3 90s to down and around and back up to connect into waterplate.
> 
> 2 buying a 240 multi port and running the bottom ports ( but also having to buy a 360 to match) already running 360 ek PE on flexbay side
> 
> 3. Picking up another ek 360 for left side and the lower half won't get a fan and I'd only be utilizing the top 2 fans. ( other than the 3 fans as intake on the lower horizontal mount)
> 
> The 360 would get my fittings low enough to wear there would be no interference with waterplate
> 
> Just curious if the cooling would be the same or similar to a 240 being that the last fan slot would not be used do to the usb/on off switch in front.
> 
> Money wise it would be the cheapest solution and hidden rather than buying a bunch of fittings to manipulate down and under and back up the other side of the rad or buying 2 new Completly different branded rads


You know... the Rads are inside the case.

It doesn't technically matter if you use Rads from different brands.

but now if you only want matching brands because of Aesthetics or Brand loyalty, or whatever is your thing,
then well... it's really up to you if you want to spend more to make them the same "_symmetric_"
or if you don't mind and can live with leaving them "_asymmetric_" (different brands) will save you money









it's really down to personal choice









As for performance of a 360 without 1 fan, you are basically running a 240mm, the empty 120mm section of the 360mm Rad without the fan will basically do nothing.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> You know... the Rads are inside the case.
> 
> It doesn't technically matter if you use Rads from different brands.
> 
> but now if you only want matching brands because of Aesthetics or Brand loyalty, or whatever is your thing,
> then well... it's really up to you if you want to spend more to make them the same "_symmetric_"
> or if you don't mind and can live with leaving them "_asymmetric_" (different brands) will save you money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's really down to personal choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for performance of a 360 without 1 fan, you are basically running a 240mm, the empty 120mm section of the 360mm Rad without the fan will basically do nothing.


It's a full Windows caselabs s8 build so matching is important. I'll prob go with 2 360s up front as not having a fan on the last 120 mount (from what I've read) shouldn't effect performance and will greatly help tube runs and fitting issues. Plus will be down below in the left lower compartment and won't be seen. A little unorthodox but can't be any worse performance than a 240


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> It's a full Windows caselabs s8 build so matching is important. I'll prob go with 2 360s up front as not having a fan on the last 120 mount (from what I've read) shouldn't effect performance and will greatly help tube runs and fitting issues. Plus will be down below in the left lower compartment and won't be seen. A little unorthodox but can't be any worse performance than a 240


I didn't match rads in my SMA8... no one ever told me anything









TCO


----------



## Trestles126

I have two ek 360s already and being that the front rads waterplate and top custom res being the focal point. And also waterplate being cut out around the front two rads having them be the same is ideal and 80 bucks ain't gonna make or break my budget . I guess my question more regards having a 360 with only 2 120 fans being same or greater performance than a 240 rad


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have two ek 360s already and being that the front rads waterplate and top custom res being the focal point. And also waterplate being cut out around the front two rads having them be the same is ideal and 80 bucks ain't gonna make or break my budget . *I guess my question more regards having a 360 with only 2 120 fans being same or greater performance than a 240 rad*


Then just say that.









TCO


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have two ek 360s already and being that the front rads waterplate and top custom res being the focal point. And also waterplate being cut out around the front two rads having them be the same is ideal and 80 bucks ain't gonna make or break my budget . I guess my question more regards having a 360 with only 2 120 fans being same or greater performance than a 240 rad


it'll be the same as running Two 240mm if both 360mm Rads only have Two fans running on them.

you are effectively running 2x 240mm in the foot print of 2x 360mm,

translation, that means you are actually using up valuable space inside your case,
which could have been used for something else, like making it easier to run tubes,
or installing the Reservoir in that empty 120mm spot.

but from the Economical point of view, it's totally feasible, and you'll be saving money by not having to buy extra parts.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> finally finishing up the new build. moved out of a corsair and onto a praxis (and replaced most of the components at the same time). will be using it more of a case and not really as a test bench. lighting is rgb and can be changed via remote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very cool build, I like how you modded the back to fit 2x 360 Rads. I didn't like the original design incorporating only a single rad and you made the test bench way more efficient. Would be cool to mod the sides to fit rads similar to how Dimastech did their test benches.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Little Big Bullit is done folks (minor details on cables missing). Some pics. More in the log (signature):








http://www.overclock.net/t/1599975/the-little-big-bullitt-a-caselabs-bh4-bullet-build/430#post_25635326


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have two ek 360s already and being that the front rads waterplate and top custom res being the focal point. And also waterplate being cut out around the front two rads having them be the same is ideal and 80 bucks ain't gonna make or break my budget . I guess my question more regards having a 360 with only 2 120 fans being same or greater performance than a 240 rad


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> it'll be the same as running Two 240mm if both 360mm Rads only have Two fans running on them.
> 
> you are effectively running 2x 240mm in the foot print of 2x 360mm,
> 
> translation, that means you are actually using up valuable space inside your case,
> which could have been used for something else, like making it easier to run tubes,
> or installing the Reservoir in that empty 120mm spot.
> 
> but from the Economical point of view, it's totally feasible, and you'll be saving money by not having to buy extra parts.


Actually, you could get better performance out of a 360mm rad with 2 fans than a 240mm rad with 2 fans. That is if you used a shroud that spreads the flow of those 2 fans over the entire surface area of the 360mm rad.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Little Big Bullit is done folks (minor details on cables missing). Some pics. More in the log (signature):
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking super there Gabz, another gold star my friend . .
















Darlene


----------



## PatrickCrowely

This is a build i ran across. I think it's beautiful & different. He has am imagination...

Builder: Atomicus
Build Name" I AM TITANIUM


----------



## Ceadderman

I really like the use of angle fittings and bends. It's super clean looking.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> it'll be the same as running Two 240mm if both 360mm Rads only have Two fans running on them.
> 
> you are effectively running 2x 240mm in the foot print of 2x 360mm,
> 
> translation, that means you are actually using up valuable space inside your case,
> which could have been used for something else, like making it easier to run tubes,
> or installing the Reservoir in that empty 120mm spot.
> 
> but from the Economical point of view, it's totally feasible, and you'll be saving money by not having to buy extra parts.


I'll have to post pics of what I'm accomplishing the custom distribution plate would be to close to the 240s ports making it not feasible to run unless I flipped the 240 180 and had ports facing from of case. Or bought a rad that had ports off bottom. When the 3D renderings come in I'll post pics to explain a lil better. The front horizontal bay of my S8 no longer has radiators it's just for cable management and a HD rack. So the 360s not taking up space I would fill with anything.

I'll post pics later haven't had time working 7-12s with a bad commute


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> As temporary decision I found the laces from the shoes (didn`t find any wires) and spent 15 minutes for some magic)))
> 
> Probably now is OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you guys for advice!


I had the same problem anyway I took my cards out, the cards had a lot of droop till I took off the water blocks BINGO they were perfectly straight I had over tightened the water blocks causing the card to bend








So I was very careful to mount the blocks with the maximum amount of pressure without bending the cards too much


----------



## looniam

having just a uniblock i found a zip tie on the power cables/hard drive cage helped a lot to keep from sagging.



man i hate seeing in a pic where i missed dusting, i go through cans of air like i used to bottles of whiskey. and yeah, i keep seeing this nice hard tubed rigs . . . but i keep swapping things around/tinkering a lot.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> having just a uniblock i found a zip tie on the power cables/hard drive cage helped a lot to keep from sagging.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> man i hate seeing in a pic where i missed dusting, i go through cans of air like i used to bottles of whiskey. and yeah, i keep seeing this nice hard tubed rigs . . . but i keep swapping things around/tinkering a lot.


This is my dirty little secret



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Never thought to look at the bottom rad


----------



## looniam

whoa.


----------



## Trestles126

Mocking up distribution plate for s8 to go along with top 2 piece custom res

Working with Jim at clockwerks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Little Big Bullit is done folks (minor details on cables missing). Some pics. More in the log (signature):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1599975/the-little-big-bullitt-a-caselabs-bh4-bullet-build/430#post_25635326


Decent job done there Gabe,not sure if the white fittings work for me but the rest is solid work.

Good job.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> having just a uniblock i found a zip tie on the power cables/hard drive cage helped a lot to keep from sagging.
> 
> 
> 
> man i hate seeing in a pic where i missed dusting, *i go through cans of air like i used to bottles of whiskey.* and yeah, i keep seeing this nice hard tubed rigs . . . but i keep swapping things around/tinkering a lot.


Datavac.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Datavac.


Would you know where to get one in Europe that isn't massively overpriced?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> This is a build i ran across. I think it's beautiful & different. He has am imagination...
> 
> Builder: Atomicus
> Build Name" I AM TITANIUM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you very much.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Datavac.


christmas is around the corner, eh?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> This is a build i ran across. I think it's beautiful & different. He has am imagination...
> 
> Builder: Atomicus
> Build Name" I AM TITANIUM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much.
Click to expand...

well hello.







may i compliment you on the color scheme?

personally i dislike red leds but going blue/lavender made them less of an eyesore (for me) if not blend in well.

nice.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looking super there Gabz, another gold star my friend . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Decent job done there Gabe,not sure if the white fittings work for me but the rest is solid work.
> 
> Good job.


Thank you Darlene and B. A lot of work on this one but I am quite happy with the result. Of all the builds I done and liked the result (Chessboard, Grey Matter) I think this one is the better finished and somewhat more of a challenge due to space limitations. I am happy that I had to push the limits of my own craft on this one and learn a few new tricks. Wondering if this will be enough to convince some potential sponsors for a future build...


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Thank you very much.


You're welcome. I was PartsPicker building me a 1080Ti computer & ran across your build. I didn't see a build log on here for it. Great Job!


----------



## VSG

Well, it's been over an year since I first had a pre-production sample but these are finally ready for retail release:


----------



## MinyMan644

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well, it's been over an year since I first had a pre-production sample but these are finally ready for retail release:


That looks interesting, Do you know when they will be available


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MinyMan644*
> 
> That looks interesting, Do you know when they will be available


Should be fairly imminent given the retail packaging is done. What I have are the final retail versions.


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well, it's been over an year since I first had a pre-production sample but these are finally ready for retail release:


This is something of a GTX-type radiator? That means optimized for higher airflow (unlike GTS and SR2)?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> This is something of a GTX-type radiator? That means optimized for higher airflow (unlike GTS and SR2)?


It is, yes. It's more high airflow optimized compared to the Nemesis GTX/GTS and SR2.


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is, yes. It's more high airflow optimized compared to the Nemesis GTX/GTS and SR2.


Thanks, just bought three new GTS rads, would have been a shame if something new for low fan speeds came out just now.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> christmas is around the corner, eh?
> well hello.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> may i compliment you on the color scheme?
> 
> personally i dislike red leds but going blue/lavender made them less of an eyesore (for me) if not blend in well.


Thanks. I didn't really have much choice with the the LED's on the motherboard and RAM, as they can't be turned off, but overall I think it's a nice balance with the blue and UV.


----------



## feznz

Still have a lot I want to tidy up but for now it will do for now till the new GTX1080Ti Strix are available.
Thinking new cables, Changing out the tube and fittings to either black or white the red seems to getting out of control, though it definitely looks 10x brighter in the photo than in person.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well, it's been over an year since I first had a pre-production sample but these are finally ready for retail release:


----------



## rikkiepc

http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/ek-releases-new-ek-duraclear-transparent-tubing.html

Interesting, no?


----------



## lexer

Almost done, only need some minor mods on the cables and the tubes. I'm trying to make the tubes as
straight as possible but since the tube comes in a roll is a bit hard


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is, yes. It's more high airflow optimized compared to the Nemesis GTX/GTS and SR2.


Sounds like a good candidate for benching rigs, or in scenarios where noise isn't as much of an issue... Guessing it's the replacement for the old 30-32fpi rads they made back I nthe day?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Sounds like a good candidate for benching rigs, or in scenarios where noise isn't as much of an issue... Guessing it's the replacement for the old 30-32fpi rads they made back I nthe day?


It is, and using a different core design.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Almost done, only need some minor mods on the cables and the tubes. I'm trying to make the tubes as
> straight as possible but since the tube comes in a roll is a bit hard


If you give the tube a good dunking in hot water you can shape it. When it cools it will retain the shape you gave it, same as it now retains the curvature of the roll. This trick was a lesson from Geno (@BoxGods) of Monsoon fame.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Almost done, only need some minor mods on the cables and the tubes. I'm trying to make the tubes as
> straight as possible but since the tube comes in a roll is a bit hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you give the tube a good dunking in hot water you can shape it. When it cools it will retain the shape you gave it, same as it now retains the curvature of the roll. This trick was a lesson from Geno (@BoxGods) of Monsoon fame.
Click to expand...

Whenever I'm dealing with tubing, I keep an electric kettle nearby boiling water for this exact reason. Also helps with getting tight tube over barbs, then as it cools, it maintains a much better connection on the barb.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok folks it is finished now. Final coolant in place and color adjusted. Windows in place. Little Big Bullit (caselabs BH4) is going into daily use now.

It was like this:



and now is this:









more pics in the log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1599975/the-little-big-bullitt-a-caselabs-bh4-bullet-build/450#post_25639184


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is, yes. It's more high airflow optimized compared to the Nemesis GTX/GTS and SR2.


i dont like really loud fans my limit is around the 1300-1400 rpm range

would this still be a good rad in P/P at that rpm range


----------



## LiquidHaus

finished up these bad boys this last week.

the 909s still look crazy unique to me with watercooling


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> i dont like really loud fans my limit is around the 1300-1400 rpm range
> 
> would this still be a good rad in P/P at that rpm range


The pre-production samples were, and I don't think anything changed from what I was told. So these would be very good in push-pull at those speeds with average performance fans.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is, and using a different core design.


I am definitely looking forward to the reviews then, as I really like the sound of such. I just hope with my intended use on the benching rig the snow doesn't make it through the rad and blast me in the face (yay for window mounting!)


----------



## ruffhi

Friends ... I need your input. I am working on my hard-line to and from my CPU cooler. I have two anchor points that are pretty close together ... one attached to the front of the case and the other attached to the reservoir.

By a fluke, they are at pretty much the same height and offset by about 25mm. Here is a sketchup pic showing the situation. I can insert the block with the ports front and back (as shown) or the other orientation (left / right).












Spoiler: more pics







































And here is where it gets fun ... how do I bring those hardline tubes down to the block? They could start a gentle curve to the right and then plunge down in unison to the block ... one could kink up (or down) and then cascade down, one over the other, into the block ... or ... any other suggestions?


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> finished up these bad boys this last week.
> 
> the 909s still look crazy unique to me with watercooling


Great builds! This the first time I've seen one with 3 rads in it. I was thinking about getting a 909 when I upgrade my build.


----------



## jleslie246

Question for you guys. EK rez. Can you rotate the EK thing in the bottom of the res?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Question for you guys. EK rez. Can you rotate the EK thing in the bottom of the res?


That's a negative, uses 2 legs on the bottom of the cyclone insert to stay in the bottom of the res, can only take it out. Probably could modify it somehow if you really wanted to.


----------



## jleslie246

what about rotating the pump but keeping the IN/OUT'puts in the same place?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Great builds! This the first time I've seen one with 3 rads in it. I was thinking about getting a 909 when I upgrade my build.


Thanks man. Yeah that third radiator was to fulfill a request from a customer who wanted that case but with more "cooling capacity". Since he didn't have any hard drives in his order, I opted to throw a 240 where the hard drive cages normally reside.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> what about rotating the pump but keeping the IN/OUT'puts in the same place?


If you mean the one below, yes you can freely rotate the actual pump and port orientations:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







If you're referring to the actual combo unit below, yes it should rotate in the same fashion as the one above but would need confirmation on that one since it's threaded in and I dont have one in hand:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Assembled some pumps tonight, hopefully paint this weekend. Digging the colder weather here in Louisiana, that might be a little better to paint in.



More in the Log.

TCO


----------



## Ithanul

^Yeah, Fall finally decided to show up down here. Thank goodness, now I can crank up my rigs as space heaters.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Assembled some pumps tonight, hopefully paint this weekend. Digging the colder weather here in Louisiana, that might be a little better to paint in.
> 
> 
> 
> More in the Log.
> 
> TCO


Actually warmer is better,around 20c is ideal for spraying.


----------



## ckoons1

any issues with re using primochill soft tubing if there is no plasticising in it?

thx


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> any issues with re using primochill soft tubing if there is no plasticising in it?
> 
> thx


I dont think so

i have redone my build in 3 different cases using the same Primochill white tube (10/13mm)


----------



## ckoons1

That's cool. Thx


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually warmer is better,around 20c is ideal for spraying.


You know, after I said that last night, I realized I was wrong. Isn't it due to the warm weather setting the paint faster? If metal is cold, the paint won't adhere as quick?

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually warmer is better,around 20c is ideal for spraying.
> 
> 
> 
> You know, after I said that last night, I realized I was wrong. Isn't it due to the warm weather setting the paint faster? If metal is cold, the paint won't adhere as quick?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Warm is usually good, . . . .

But high humidity is not . . .

Unfortunately, in your area, the warmer months are usually also the most humid, so you may in fact find the best time to be while it is a bit cooler out, but with much lower humidity.


----------



## psycho84




----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice clean build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Warm is usually good, . . . .
> *
> But high humidity is not . . .
> *
> Unfortunately, in your area, the warmer months are usually also the most humid, so you may in fact find the best time to be while it is a bit cooler out, but with much lower humidity.


This also.

Everything has to be warm but not wet


----------



## Ithanul

Yep, our humidity down here gets nutty in the Summers.









Though, I think when we mean cooling off here is temps around 70-75F during day time which is around 21-23C. Call that nice cool weather here, we call 50F and below cold weather.


----------



## D13mass

Hi my comrades!









I have a couple a questions after installed Mo-Ra3:



What is the most flexible tubes I can buy for outside installing (from PC to Mo-Ra)? I will continue using my build only in flat, no balcony.

Because I bought Masterkleer tubing PVC

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/tubing/tubes/11013/masterkleer-schlauch-pvc-16/10mm-3/8-id-uv-aktiv-dark-green?c=2752
And I want to say - it`s a really solid (maybe it`s not good word, I mean "not flexible!") and already I had issue with disconnected tubes from fittings after moved radiators








I think about EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm


Quick connectors issue. They are little bit moving not 100% strong connect, I mean a little dangle, no leaking but anyway, is it OK?

I installed these detail

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/cases-und-hardware/slot-covers/4405/slotblende-mit-2x-g1/4-durchfuehrung then
PLUS

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/quick-release-fittings/19527/alphacool-eiszapfen-schnellverschlusskupplungsset-g1/4-ig-chrome
AND
via this nippel
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/adapters/20696/alphacool-eiszapfen-doppelnippel-drehbar-g1/4-ag-auf-g1/4-ag-chrome

So, it`s a problem in this last detail "Alphacool Eiszapfen double nippel rotatable G1/4 outer thread to G1/4 outer thread"

I have huge thick (graceless ) cable which I did after 9 fans (looks horrible, you can check it on photo) and I think buy splitter, for example this

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/fan-cables-und-adaptors/21005/aquacomputer-splitty9-splitter-fuer-bis-zu-9-luefter-oder-aquabus-geraete

I want to do more flexible my tubes (add degree of freedom): add fittings revolvable.
For example these two in Quick connectors and the same two fittings in Mo-Ra as IN and OUT.

Maybe you can advise something better.

4. Last question, not related Mo-Ra: I have clear transparent tubes inside my case

http://www.alphacool.com/shop/tubes/tubes/2023/clearflex60-schlauch-15-9/9-5mm-3/8-id-clear
And I see after a month of use with pure distilled water, they become white opaque, but the reservoir itself is clean, then the problem is in the tubes.
This is normal OR should I change these tubes? Put any opaque and live in peace =)

As usual sorry for my terrible english


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yep, our humidity down here gets nutty in the Summers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, I think when we mean cooling off here is temps around 70-75F during day time which is around 21-23C. Call that nice cool weather here, we call 50F and below cold weather.


Remember the Southern weather with dreadful fondness nearly 30 years later.









Course I was in the Mississippi delta for a couple Summers. There is always humidity. lOl

~Ceadder


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*


Psycho,

What kind of pump/top/res combo is that?

I bought an EK Revo Xtop pump without doing my research. Anyway I could convert it into something similar?

Thanks.


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Psycho,
> 
> What kind of pump/top/res combo is that?
> 
> I bought an EK Revo Xtop pump without doing my research. Anyway I could convert it into something similar?
> 
> Thanks.


https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-incl-2x-pump + https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-dual-ddc-xres-upgrade-link + EK-RES X3 Parts


----------



## LiquidHaus

Got my EVGA PowerLink in the mail yesterday...





It's a little bulky, I'll probably not end up using it with my current setup since it doesn't flow as well with my system, but it's a good thing to have for sure.


----------



## Darthvegan

Specs: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG | Core i7 6700k @4.6ghz | Gigabyte Z170x Designare | EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | Corsair Dominator DDR4 3600 32GB (4x8GB)| Samsung 960 Pro M.2 (pre-ordered) | Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD| Samsung 850 Evo 512GB SSD | Acer Predator XB271HU | EVGA G2 850W| EK SPC-60 Acetal Pump | EK X3 150 Res | Ek Supreme Evo Block | EK 1080 FTW Nickel Block


----------



## galletabah

I hpe you like it


-

-

-

-


----------



## paskowitz

Wow, talk about space utilization. Nice build.


----------



## AllGamer

Too tight and compact for my taste, but great job at being able to fit all that stuff into so little space


----------



## mouacyk

@galletabah The compactness along with cleanliness is awesome. Appreciate the share! Where is the PSU, btw? Nvm, found the build log.


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Wow, talk about space utilization. Nice build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Too tight and compact for my taste, but great job at being able to fit all that stuff into so little space


Thanks guys!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> @galletabah The compactness along with cleanliness is awesome. Appreciate the share! Where is the PSU, btw? Nvm, found the build log.


Thanks you men
It's a silverstone sx600g with fan mod
build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1606856/sponsored-project-matx-ser-n-005-galletabah


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> I hope you like it


Love it, I see you moved the power supply, looks great there.









You really need to get some nicer case feet on there though, those look like doorstops.


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Love it, I see you moved the power supply, looks great there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You really need to get some nicer case feet on there though, those look like doorstops.


JAJAJAJAJA, they are doorstops xDDDDDDD
I need 2cm feet but I cant see anything in spain


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> JAJAJAJAJA, they are doorstops xDDDDDDD
> I need 2cm feet but I cant see anything in spain


China should have what you're looking for on the cheap.









Some examples
H: 2.2cm Black / Silver
H: 1.7cm Black / Silver

You can find tons of others on aliexpress and ebay.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Assembled some pumps tonight, hopefully paint this weekend. Digging the colder weather here in Louisiana, that might be a little better to paint in.
> 
> 
> 
> More in the Log.
> 
> TCO


Yes, right now is perfect painting weather in LA. A couple of months ago, not so much. I was doing some painting a couple of months ago, and I would paint outside and immediately bring the parts inside (A/C & no humidity) to dry.

Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> I hpe you like it
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> -
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> ]


talk about 10lbs of _stuff_ in a 5lb bag. very nice and clean. couldn't have been easy fitting all of that in there


----------



## Ceadderman

I rather like that build. But I think that bottom return line should omit a couple fittings and have a 90* bend off the 90* fitting. Looks good though so I can't argue with much else.









Great job for 10# of equipment in a 5# bag.









~Ceadder


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> China should have what you're looking for on the cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some examples
> H: 2.2cm Black / Silver
> H: 1.7cm Black / Silver
> 
> You can find tons of others on aliexpress and ebay.


ooouh men, thanks
Waht do you think? black or silver?
I will buy it


----------



## Ceadderman

My first leak EVAH! And it happened to be a Predator AIO and not my custom loop.









I'm not mad in the least. The leak isn't a gusher thankfully and thankfully Seasonic PSU comes with Velcro cable straps. I applied one to the midway point of the two tubes to keep them out of the rear 140 in order to keep them from being flogged by the blades. Well the leak looks to be above the extension fitting and culminated at the Velcro strap where it slowly dripped onto the backplate of the Nitro 390x. Without it the next stop would have been the brand spanking new 1050w Platinum PSU.









So now I can say I've had a leak. Do we have an OCN leak club?









I do like this Predator because it does a first rate job keeping this 4790k chilly. Just wish it hadn't sprung a leak. Can't win em all I guess. But at least I caught it early and I know I can repair it given the RMA process. Just hope I can get a fitting and fresh coolant as part of that process to replace what will likely be lost during the repair.









~Ceadder


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My first leak EVAH! And it happened to be a Predator AIO and not my custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not mad in the least. The leak isn't a gusher thankfully and thankfully Seasonic PSU comes with Velcro cable straps. I applied one to the midway point of the two tubes to keep them out of the rear 140 in order to keep them from being flogged by the blades. Well the leak looks to be above the extension fitting and culminated at the Velcro strap where it slowly dripped onto the backplate of the Nitro 390x. Without it the next stop would have been the brand spanking new 1050w Platinum PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I can say I've had a leak. Do we have an OCN leak club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do like this Predator because it does a first rate job keeping this 4790k chilly. Just wish it hadn't sprung a leak. Can't win em all I guess. But at least I caught it early and I know I can repair it given the RMA process. Just hope I can get a fitting and fresh coolant as part of that process to replace what will likely be lost during the repair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I've seen this happening quite a bit lately... seems there has been a bad batch come out from EK, but they are at least a good company to deal with in such instances. I've always said an AIO is more likely to leak than a custom loop though, providing the custom loop is done right by someone who knows what they're doing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My first leak EVAH! And it happened to be a Predator AIO and not my custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not mad in the least. The leak isn't a gusher thankfully and thankfully Seasonic PSU comes with Velcro cable straps. I applied one to the midway point of the two tubes to keep them out of the rear 140 in order to keep them from being flogged by the blades. Well the leak looks to be above the extension fitting and culminated at the Velcro strap where it slowly dripped onto the backplate of the Nitro 390x. Without it the next stop would have been the brand spanking new 1050w Platinum PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I can say I've had a leak. Do we have an OCN leak club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do like this Predator because it does a first rate job keeping this 4790k chilly. Just wish it hadn't sprung a leak. Can't win em all I guess. But at least I caught it early and I know I can repair it given the RMA process. Just hope I can get a fitting and fresh coolant as part of that process to replace what will likely be lost during the repair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen this happening quite a bit lately... seems there has been a bad batch come out from EK, but they are at least a good company to deal with in such instances. *I've always said an AIO is more likely to leak than a custom loop though, providing the custom loop is done right by someone who knows what they're doing.*
Click to expand...

I agree on all counts. The Predator is in a client build though. Not my personal rig. So I am glad that the issue finally presented itself before I had delivered it.









~Ceadder


----------



## fitzy-775

My first water cooled build up and running.


----------



## AllGamer

Everything looks good...







except the tube that goes over the RAM

You're going to have a hard time replacing RAM sticks, if anything were to happen, and you need to troubleshoot the RAM
You could consider using a QDC fitting if you want to keep it as is.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> My first water cooled build up and running.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> My first water cooled build up and running


Good Job. Like the colour.

TCO


----------



## eucalyptus

My XSPC led temperature display is dead, right?

Probably this one I burned last year with 12V


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My first leak EVAH! And it happened to be a Predator AIO and not my custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not mad in the least. The leak isn't a gusher thankfully and thankfully Seasonic PSU comes with Velcro cable straps. I applied one to the midway point of the two tubes to keep them out of the rear 140 in order to keep them from being flogged by the blades. Well the leak looks to be above the extension fitting and culminated at the Velcro strap where it slowly dripped onto the backplate of the Nitro 390x. Without it the next stop would have been the brand spanking new 1050w Platinum PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I can say I've had a leak. Do we have an OCN leak club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do like this Predator because it does a first rate job keeping this 4790k chilly. Just wish it hadn't sprung a leak. Can't win em all I guess. But at least I caught it early and I know I can repair it given the RMA process. Just hope I can get a fitting and fresh coolant as part of that process to replace what will likely be lost during the repair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Where is it leaking fella?

Mail EK support too.


----------



## AllGamer

I read a lot of bad reviews about these displays from several places.
Not just XSPC, any brand.
I was about to pick up a few of these for my build, until i saw all the negative reviews, and yes most of the people reported the same thing died after aprox a year, or less.

Which is why i went with Aquacomputer instead, get the readings, then you can use AIDA64, and have an old Tablet / Phone and use it as a Display







https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6QG3tRKwPc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> My XSPC led temperature display is dead, right?
> 
> Probably this one I burned last year with 12V


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I read a lot of bad reviews about these displays from several places.
> Not just XSPC, any brand.
> I was about to pick up a few of these for my build, until i saw all the negative reviews, and yes most of the people reported the same thing died after aprox a year, or less.
> 
> Which is why i went with Aquacomputer instead, get the readings, then you can use AIDA64, and have an old Tablet / Phone and use it as a Display
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6QG3tRKwPc


Not really the same thing









I have two in my computer, and this one were going into my new project to show the ambient temperature in the room









Well, guess I have to order a new one


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I read a lot of bad reviews about these displays from several places.
> Not just XSPC, any brand.
> I was about to pick up a few of these for my build, until i saw all the negative reviews, and yes most of the people reported the same thing died after aprox a year, or less.
> 
> Which is why i went with Aquacomputer instead, get the readings, then you can use AIDA64, and have an old Tablet / Phone and use it as a Display
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6QG3tRKwPc


true, there cheap, and a pain to replace at times, but come on man, what do you expect for a $5 dollar display.









I have two of them in my build, and the fancy 5 1/4" bay display holder for them. I totally expect them to die on me, repeatedly.








I may replace them at some point, but for now they work.


----------



## kariverson

I have one of those XSPC displays on the way to. I was thinking of doing what Jay2cents did with one of those ebay 9" displays with aida64 but I literally have no idea how to do that haha. When the small display dies I'll try it.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> I have one of those XSPC displays on the way to. I was thinking of doing what Jay2cents did with one of those ebay 9" displays with aida64 but I literally have no idea how to do that haha. When the small display dies I'll try it.


check the you tube link, on my previous post, it shows you how to do it, really easily.

that's what I'll be using for on my build.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. So, bit of a broad question(s), but I'll try to simplify it as much as possible. I'm looking for a single-radiator set up that would be equal-to, or greater than, my current radiator set up.

Currently my computer (featuing an EK-SE360 and EK-PE360, with six Noctua NF-F12's) is inside a Phanteks Evolv ATX TG case. Though, honestly, I usually leave the side panels off. My temperatures when gaming at least, usually stay cool. Both GPU's under around 55C and CPU under 65C. I'm switching the case, to a test bench style case, for simplicity of servicing the build. That being said, the test bench only has capability to mount two radiator mounts, each one accepting up-to 280mm technically. Although it seems like it may stress the screw holes on the radiators, especially thicker/heavier ones.

So basically, here's the couple of questions:

1. What's the best single-radiator I can get that wouldn't be absolutely stupid-big, compared to my current two? (I've heard the EK-SE360 is kind of terrible, so that might not even really help my loop all that much.)

2. What would be the best fans for that radiator also?

3. Does any company make simple brackets to mount to a radiator, so it can rest on a table? I'll like just do that, honestly.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. So, bit of a broad question(s), but I'll try to simplify it as much as possible. I'm looking for a single-radiator set up that would be equal-to, or greater than, my current radiator set up.
> 
> Currently my computer (featuing an EK-SE360 and EK-PE360, with six Noctua NF-F12's) is inside a Phanteks Evolv ATX TG case. Though, honestly, I usually leave the side panels off. My temperatures when gaming at least, usually stay cool. Both GPU's under around 55C and CPU under 65C. I'm switching the case, to a test bench style case, for simplicity of servicing the build. That being said, the test bench only has capability to mount two radiator mounts, each one accepting up-to 280mm technically. Although it seems like it may stress the screw holes on the radiators, especially thicker/heavier ones.
> 
> So basically, here's the couple of questions:
> 
> 1. What's the best single-radiator I can get that wouldn't be absolutely stupid-big, compared to my current two? (I've heard the EK-SE360 is kind of terrible, so that might not even really help my loop all that much.)
> 
> 2. What would be the best fans for that radiator also?
> 
> 3. Does any company make simple brackets to mount to a radiator, so it can rest on a table? I'll like just do that, honestly.


1. I personally favor Hardware Labs. They have 30mm to 60mm ones. You have your choice when it comes to thickness.

2. Corsair ML Pro 120/140mm.

3. Yes, XS-PC does.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> 1. What's the best single-radiator I can get that wouldn't be absolutely stupid-big, compared to my current two? (I've heard the EK-SE360 is kind of terrible, so that might not even really help my loop all that much.)
> 
> 2. What would be the best fans for that radiator also?
> 
> 3. Does any company make simple brackets to mount to a radiator, so it can rest on a table? I'll like just do that, honestly.


1. considering you want to desk mount, the XSPC AX series is probably the only one you can easily desk mount and doesn't take up much space, even regardless of which size you puck and they look really nice. Although the taller the rad the more to heavy the get, so you'd have to be careful around the big ones.

You can get up to an AX560 (Quad 140mm).

(And the EK-SE360 isn't terrible, its just a very slim, low resistance radiator, not really meant for pure performance, but it still does the job.)

2. The best radiator fans(imo) atm are the EK Vardar, BQ! SW3, eLoops, TR TY-143a SQ(140mm only), GT(120mm only) and Corsair ML(Although they're grossly overpriced).

3. As mentioned before XSPC has them for their AX series rads. Then there are the Watercool MO-RA and Phobya stands, but they're much bigger.

Although there's the 4x 120mm Phobya stands which is still reasonably small and has all kinds of options for mounting reservoirs and pumps. And can be used with any radiator you want. In which case the HWL SR-2 and GTS would probably be my first choice.


----------



## eucalyptus

Wow, trying to bend my Alphacool 16mm tube, and it goes straight to hell.

Realizes the silicone insert is way to small. Turns out I have 3 packages of 16/13mm tube and one package of 16/12mm.

My Silicone insert is 12mm.

So, I believe I need a 13mm silicone insert, am I right?


----------



## emsj86

cant find a gtx 1080 ftw water block any where in stock


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> cant find a gtx 1080 ftw water block any where in stock


ehm ? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw-nickel


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. I personally favor Hardware Labs. They have 30mm to 60mm ones. You have your choice when it comes to thickness.
> 
> 2. Corsair ML Pro 120/140mm.
> 
> 3. Yes, XS-PC does.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> 1. considering you want to desk mount, the XSPC AX series is probably the only one you can easily desk mount and doesn't take up much space, even regardless of which size you puck and they look really nice. Although the taller the rad the more to heavy the get, so you'd have to be careful around the big ones.
> 
> You can get up to an AX560 (Quad 140mm).
> 
> (And the EK-SE360 isn't terrible, its just a very slim, low resistance radiator, not really meant for pure performance, but it still does the job.)
> 
> 2. The best radiator fans(imo) atm are the EK Vardar, BQ! SW3, eLoops, TR TY-143a SQ(140mm only), GT(120mm only) and Corsair ML(Although they're grossly overpriced).
> 
> 3. As mentioned before XSPC has them for their AX series rads. Then there are the Watercool MO-RA and Phobya stands, but they're much bigger.
> 
> Although there's the 4x 120mm Phobya stands which is still reasonably small and has all kinds of options for mounting reservoirs and pumps. And can be used with any radiator you want. In which case the HWL SR-2 and GTS would probably be my first choice.


Alright, so, I've done some measuring and what not and here's what I'd like, I believe:

A single 360mm to perform nearly as well as my current two radiators. Again, my PC will be open to the air from now on, so, I think I can likely achieve the same/similar temperatures on just a single 360mm radiator. I've heard really good things about those Hardware Labs ones, so perhaps I'll get a 60mm thick one. Also, it doesn't seem worth it price wise to change fans, so, I'll likely just use my six NF-F12's in a push/pull configuration.

I've also found a radiator bracket made by Phobya that seems like it would be the most stable.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Alright, so, I've done some measuring and what not and here's what I'd like, I believe:
> 
> A single 360mm to perform nearly as well as my current two radiators. Again, my PC will be open to the air from now on, so, I think I can likely achieve the same/similar temperatures on just a single 360mm radiator. I've heard really good things about those Hardware Labs ones, so perhaps I'll get a 60mm thick one. Also, it doesn't seem worth it price wise to change fans, so, I'll likely just use my six NF-F12's in a push/pull configuration.
> 
> I've also found a radiator bracket made by Phobya that seems like it would be the most stable.


Check the EKWB XE 360... it actually gets an *excellent review* at Xtremerigs, and does seem to have the edge over the Hardware Labs offerings.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Check the EKWB XE 360... it actually gets an *excellent review* at Xtremerigs, and does seem to have the edge over the Hardware Labs offerings.


Not for long, these are coming on sale one by one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/hardware-labs-black-icer-nemesisr-gtr-black-carbon-radiator-560mm.html

Price wise, I think the Coolstream XE will continue to have an edge though, along with the 2 extra ports.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not for long, these are coming on sale one by one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/hardware-labs-black-icer-nemesisr-gtr-black-carbon-radiator-560mm.html
> 
> Price wise, I think the Coolstream XE will continue to have an edge though, along with the 2 extra ports.


What cases will take 560mm? That's a short list lol!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> What cases will take 560mm? That's a short list lol!


Mine does









But it's mostly a case in exercise to have a product for everyone I guess. 120/240/360/480 and 140/280/420/560 mm sizes, and perhaps also 180/360/540 mm rads too.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mine does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's mostly a case in exercise to have a product for everyone I guess. 120/240/360/480 and 140/280/420/560 mm sizes, and perhaps also 180/360/540 mm rads too.


Indeed, great that they have the option... beast of a rad that though, over half a meter long lol!


----------



## LiquidHaus

I gotta old school Hardware Labs Gen Two Xtreme 560, as well as an SR1 360 and 240. I have faith that Hardware Labs would be the superior radiator manufacturer. Tired of EK running the market.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pl25jKjNj

https://imageshack.com/i/poq8rUlrj

https://imageshack.com/i/pl9YuVcGj

Putting an external setup together.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pl25jKjNj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/poq8rUlrj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pl9YuVcGj
> 
> 
> Putting an external setup together.


Been pondering this for a while, since I dont have the room for a big case atm, it'd just go at the back of my desk! How are you powering it?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Been pondering this for a while, since I dont have the room for a big case atm, it'd just go at the back of my desk! How are you powering it?


Phobya external psu http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-external-PSU-230V-to-4Pin-Molex-90W-including-EuroUK-Plug_20957.html


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Been pondering this for a while, since I dont have the room for a big case atm, it'd just go at the back of my desk! How are you powering it?


I'm actually doing something similar for a couple of older PC rigs that lacks the internal space to hold radiators / reservoirs.

I considered using that naked Radiator stand vs. the Pedestals options.

In the end I settled for a TT P100 Pedestal with EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump), and a couple of EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad)



The alternative was using the CaseLab Merlin SM8 Pedestal, but it was twice the cost, as the were many parts not included with the default Pedestal order.
(Fan mounting panels, Top Cover, Front Flex Bay, Pins to secure the Top Cover)


The Plus side of going CaseLab is that you get to choose the color you want.


----------



## khemist

I never knew TT had copied that as well, i might have considered it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Indeed, great that they have the option... beast of a rad that though, over half a meter long lol!


Other sizes are now up (120 and 140): http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ngtr

Also,
Quote:


> With the holidays right around the corner we sure you want to be grabbing some of the latest hardware and mod gear we have to offer. So, enjoy these coupons for the Thanksgiving week and stay tuned for our Black Friday and Cyber Monday deals!
> 
> Spend $50 and get 8% off: "TURKEY16-8"
> Spend $250 or more and get 10% off: "TURKEY16-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from November 18th through November 24th 2016. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## sinnedone

Speaking of which, in the same email they list Alphacool Eisbrecher Pro radiator

http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-eisbrecher-pro-xt45-full-copper-360mm-radiator.html

Interesting esthetically and can probably mod it into interesting design.

Anyone test its performance?


----------



## prznar1

Watercool customer service is great. Ive lost some screws and washers from my gpu block. They send them to me free of charge from germany to poland


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Speaking of which, in the same email they list Alphacool Eisbrecher Pro radiator
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-eisbrecher-pro-xt45-full-copper-360mm-radiator.html
> 
> Interesting esthetically and can probably mod it into interesting design.
> 
> Anyone test its performance?


Yes, and it's a NexXxos XT45 in a new shell- literally. Does well at low airflow but scales poorly.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I'm actually doing something similar for a couple of older PC rigs that lacks the internal space to hold radiators / reservoirs.
> 
> I considered using that naked Radiator stand vs. the Pedestals options.
> 
> In the end I settled for a TT P100 Pedestal with EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump), and a couple of EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad)
> 
> 
> 
> The alternative was using the CaseLab Merlin SM8 Pedestal, but it was twice the cost, as the were many parts not included with the default Pedestal order.
> (Fan mounting panels, Top Cover, Front Flex Bay, Pins to secure the Top Cover)
> 
> 
> The Plus side of going CaseLab is that you get to choose the color you want.


I've used the Thermaltake Pedestal myself. Ran some pretty cool PETG in it. The pedestals are pretty sweet.


----------



## emsj86

Is it me or seems 12mm tubing has gone away in being used in everyone's build. I see it on some builds but mainly it's all 14/16mm. Which I must say looks good


----------



## eucalyptus

I have nothing to bring to the table today.

So I am just going to wish everyone a happy weekend a lovely Saturday! If you are at a sunny place on Earth, please, enjoy it extra much while I am stuck here in the dark, rainy, cold and ugly Sweden.

Love you my friends <3

Did I forget to say this is the best thread on the forum?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is it me or seems 12mm tubing has gone away in being used in everyone's build. I see it on some builds but mainly it's all 14/16mm. Which I must say looks good


I always thought 12 just looked too small, sans sff builds. Been using 14mm for a bit now (about a year?) And I gotta say, it's the sweet spot imo. Glad to see other brands jumping on with that size. I was afraid it'd disappear since it wasn't very common


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is it me or seems 12mm tubing has gone away in being used in everyone's build. I see it on some builds but mainly it's all 14/16mm. Which I must say looks good


Ill Never use another size tubing besides 12mm.

TCO


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I have nothing to bring to the table today.
> 
> So I am just going to wish everyone a happy weekend a lovely Saturday! If you are at a sunny place on Earth, please, enjoy it extra much while I am stuck here in the dark, rainy, cold and ugly Sweden.
> 
> Love you my friends <3
> 
> Did I forget to say this is the best thread on the forum?


I spent 2 weeks travelling around sweden during midsommer a few years back...amazing country you have there


----------



## SQZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Putting an external setup together.


Nice to see the SC res mount in the wild!


----------



## Bouf0010

Another sneak preview before she's all done ?

Waiting on some lights and a couple other minor things.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## sli_shroom

very nice Bouf0010


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> I spent 2 weeks travelling around sweden during midsommer a few years back...amazing country you have there


Yes, Midsummer it is a dream.

But this time of year, when there's no snow and no beautiful leaves except grey sky all day long and you NEVER see sunlight, it's a real pain
















Ah well guys, a package from Germany arrives in a few hours, which one of the items are the Dr Drop Aquacomputer air pressure leak tester thing.
I believe I know how to use it.

It measures air pressure -> bar. But at which "bar" am I sure the loop is closed, seal and good to go? 1 bar? 2 bar? 3 bar?


----------



## Trestles126

Distribution plate and top dual resivoir being made by Jim at clockwerks for my caselabs s8

Such a pleasure working with. He responds instantly and is super quick and works with you.

Note the tubes in picture are just thrown in for reference. Not cut to fit where they will be


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is it me or seems 12mm tubing has gone away in being used in everyone's build. I see it on some builds but mainly it's all 14/16mm. Which I must say looks good




I use 12mm.


----------



## eucalyptus

Found this video about Dr Drop from Dazmode. Seems like the Aquacomouter Dr Drop are useless and leaking by itself. But that remains to see and I will get back to you as soon I tried









EDIT** Found some posts on the forum stating you have to remove the pump (the air pump) while testing, otherwise it will leak, like the video. So clearly all the faulty results are due to incorrect usage of the product.

Hahahha then I saw this, did he just run the pump dry???! "Hmm, let's see if pump works, hmm I don't like the sound of it".
https://youtu.be/apcJMs1o8K8?t=11m21s


----------



## rathborne

I don't think he ran it dry, it was a problem with the pump. Just before he turned it on he commented on how much water was needed to fill the loop.


----------



## Ashcroft

Daz is a complicated character. There have been odd claims in his videos before, like Koolance using ports on their rads that would only fit their own fittings, for instance off the top of my head but I'm sure there are others.

I'm fairly sure at one point he wipes the ceramic ball clean of graphite it has ground off of the socket on the impeller. On all my pumps the impeller has to wobble a fair way before it will contact the wall and the video does not 'seem' to show that. If the bearing is worn down then the impeller can contact much more easily.

It looks superficially like the 'noisy' impeller


sits lower than the quiet impeller looking at the gap around the edge between the impeller and the wall.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Daz...The Mr Bean of watercooling.....


----------



## Shoggy

Not that video again... One more time I have to bring up that the pump of Dr. Drop must be removed while testing. It is written in the manual and newer batches even have red sticker with this note because of that video.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Daz...The Mr Bean of watercooling.....


Hahahaha.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Daz...The Mr Bean of watercooling.....


HAhahahahahahahaha









He knows a lot of stuff though, but sometimes he is like Mr Bean yes hahahah Best comment of the day so far









I feel sad for him.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not that video again... One more time I have to bring up that the pump of Dr. Drop must be removed while testing. It is written in the manual and newer batches even have red sticker with this note because of that video.


Perhaps supply a decent pump with a decent non return valve?

I leave my pump on while testing with no problems...But then,I did make my own as you are aware...


----------



## Questors

Not getting the RPM single to controller.

Neither RPM cable is reporting to the controller. The cables are EKWB factory sleeved, bought pump assembly straight from EK - cables were sleeved on arrival, I haven't touched them (as in...I didn't ruin the precious). I mention this as I have yet to see a picture online that shows them pre-sleeved, but of course that may not mean much.

I have these EKWB dual pwm pumps



The pumps are connected to this Lamptron Controller. The controller has worked fine and doesn't seem to be malfunctioning. I used it to control another D5 pump prior to this.




I have tried:
[1] swapping out a number of 4 pin Y cables
[2] swapping out a number of 3 pin Y cables
[3] Every controller channel
[4] auto and manual modes
[5] one plug at a time (as power is separate connection)

Ideas?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Distribution plate and top dual resivoir being made by Jim at clockwerks for my caselabs s8
> 
> Such a pleasure working with. He responds instantly and is super quick and works with you.
> 
> Note the tubes in picture are just thrown in for reference. Not cut to fit where they will be


Have you got a link for clockwork? I used Google and it was not my friend.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you got a link for clockwork? I used Google and it was not my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's clockwerk with a e and

Www.clockwerkindustries.com

And email

[email protected]


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you got a link for clockwork? I used Google and it was not my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's clockwerk with a e and
> 
> Www.clockwerkindustries.com
> 
> And email
> 
> [email protected]
Click to expand...

Understood. Am on my Android and autocorrect sucks these days. Thank you for the link.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Understood. Am on my Android and autocorrect sucks these days. Thank you for the link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Still works fine on my end, which autocorrect are you using?


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Yes, Midsummer it is a dream.
> 
> But this time of year, when there's no snow and no beautiful leaves except grey sky all day long and you NEVER see sunlight, it's a real pain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah well guys, a package from Germany arrives in a few hours, which one of the items are the Dr Drop Aquacomputer air pressure leak tester thing.
> I believe I know how to use it.
> 
> It measures air pressure -> bar. But at which "bar" am I sure the loop is closed, seal and good to go? 1 bar? 2 bar? 3 bar?


1 bar is 14 psi. even .5 bar would be sufficient. just make sure that it doesnt drop from whatever you set it to


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> 1 bar is 14 psi. even .5 bar would be sufficient. just make sure that it doesnt drop from whatever you set it to


Great, thanks a lot sli_shroom


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Understood. Am on my Android and autocorrect sucks these days. Thank you for the link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still works fine on my end, which autocorrect are you using?
Click to expand...

Using the stock AC on my S4. Last update allows dual alpha Caps when it should be Cap dolled by lower case. Of course I don't perform the maintenance on it like I would if it were my desktop so I've know idea what app update did it. I just have to be more attentive to what I text or post from the Galaxy.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Not getting the RPM single to controller.
> 
> Neither RPM cable is reporting to the controller. The cables are EKWB factory sleeved, bought pump assembly straight from EK - cables were sleeved on arrival, I haven't touched them (as in...I didn't ruin the precious). I mention this as I have yet to see a picture online that shows them pre-sleeved, but of course that may not mean much.
> 
> I have these EKWB dual pwm pumps
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pumps are connected to this Lamptron Controller. The controller has worked fine and doesn't seem to be malfunctioning. I used it to control another D5 pump prior to this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried:
> [1] swapping out a number of 4 pin Y cables
> [2] swapping out a number of 3 pin Y cables
> [3] Every controller channel
> [4] auto and manual modes
> [5] one plug at a time (as power is separate connection)
> 
> Ideas?


That controller is not pwm and you are trying to control a pwm using voltage regulator. So, that is a no go. PWM D5 pumps are designed to work at 12 (or 24) v constant.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That controller is not pwm and you are trying to control a pwm using voltage regulator. So, that is a no go. PWM D5 pumps are designed to work at 12 (or 24) v constant.


Thank you. That is why I ask stupid questions...would rather know, be reminded or learn something I didn't know or realize, even though I probably should have.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That controller is not pwm and you are trying to control a pwm using voltage regulator. So, that is a no go. PWM D5 pumps are designed to work at 12 (or 24) v constant.


He is trying to read RPM which should still work regardless of controller.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He is trying to read RPM which _should_ still work regardless of controller.


"Should", being the operative word . . . .

Would be very interested to know if the RPM displays at max rpm, but becomes lost below that . . .

Tach signals come from switching the positive supply voltage to ground, thru a resistor, twice per revolution.

The CW611, like many higher end Lamptrons, has an output that's positive rail referenced, rather than negative rail, (or gnd) referenced.

That means that as the output voltage is reduced, the negative output rises increasingly above ground, closer to the positive rail, as opposed to the positive rail dropping closer to gnd.

Electrically, there is some advantage in doing this as it allows for implementing N-Channel devices instead of P-Channel ones.

The downside is that at 50%, or 6V output, the tach signal is a square wave between 6V at its low level, and 12V at high level, when referenced to gnd.

The tach signal usually needs to be a lot closer to gnd than that to be seen as a valid signal by the circuitry that it is applied to.

In light of that fact, the CW611 has internal circuitry that "flips" or inverts the tach signal levels to work with a positive rail referenced output, though iirc from testing, below 32% output, it stops working.

Compounding the problem in this case, is that the pump actually needs a constant 12 to 24V source, with respect to gnd, to run its internal circuitry properly.

Most pre-PWM D5's would voltage control, at least reasonably, from about 8V and up, but with a PWM version, that becomes more iffy.

Summing up, without looking at the tach signal on a scope, it's impossible to tell if it's a problem caused by the pump's circuitry, or the Lamptron's, or just a result of powering the pump from a positive rail reference output.

My suggestion would be to control the pump from the mobo CPU fan header with real PWM and power it from a molex from the PSU as it was intended.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> "Should", being the operative word . . . .
> 
> Would be very interested to know if the RPM displays at max rpm, but becomes lost below that . . .
> 
> Tach signals come from switching the positive supply voltage to ground, thru a resistor, twice per revolution.
> 
> The CW611, like many higher end Lamptrons, has an output that's positive rail referenced, rather than negative rail, (or gnd) referenced.
> 
> That means that as the output voltage is reduced, the negative output rises increasingly above ground, closer to the positive rail, as opposed to the positive rail dropping closer to gnd.
> 
> Electrically, there is some advantage in doing this as it allows for implementing N-Channel devices instead of P-Channel ones.
> 
> The downside is that at 50%, or 6V output, the tach signal is a square wave between 6V at its low level, and 12V at high level, when referenced to gnd.
> 
> The tach signal usually needs to be a lot closer to gnd than that to be seen as a valid signal by the circuitry that it is applied to.
> 
> In light of that fact, the CW611 has internal circuitry that "flips" or inverts the tach signal levels to work with a positive rail referenced output, though iirc from testing, below 32% output, it stops working.
> 
> Compounding the problem in this case, is that the pump actually needs a constant 12 to 24V source, with respect to gnd, to run its internal circuitry properly.
> 
> Most pre-PWM D5's would voltage control, at least reasonably, from about 8V and up, but with a PWM version, that becomes more iffy.
> 
> Summing up, without looking at the tach signal on a scope, it's impossible to tell if it's a problem caused by the pump's circuitry, or the Lamptron's, or just a result of powering the pump from a positive rail reference output.
> 
> *My suggestion would be to control the pump from the mobo CPU fan header with real PWM and power it from a molex from the PSU as it was intended.*


This.
Its standard for me now,you get security of having a watchdog on the header which detects fail too.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not that video again... One more time I have to bring up that the pump of Dr. Drop must be removed while testing. It is written in the manual and newer batches even have red sticker with this note because of that video.


Ohh... how do I prevent it from leaking air, while unplugging the hand pump from the Dr.Drop valve?

i was doing some early test, and Dr. Drop works fine if I leave the pump attached, but every time I try to remove the pump all the air leaks out.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Ohh... how do I prevent it from leaking air, while unplugging the hand pump from the Dr.Drop valve?
> 
> i was doing some early test, and Dr. Drop works fine if I leave the pump attached, but every time I try to remove the pump all the air leaks out.


I use a home made version, but I just go 1-2psi above my target and try and be quick about getting it off.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Ohh... how do I prevent it from leaking air, while unplugging the hand pump from the Dr.Drop valve?
> 
> i was doing some early test, and Dr. Drop works fine if I leave the pump attached, but every time I try to remove the pump all the air leaks out.


Pump a bit more inside, remove the pump and use the discharge valve to get the pressure down to your desired testing pressure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Ohh... how do I prevent it from leaking air, while unplugging the hand pump from the Dr.Drop valve?
> 
> i was doing some early test, and Dr. Drop works fine if I leave the pump attached, but every time I try to remove the pump all the air leaks out.


The schrader valve is universal to all handpumps,I use a car foot pump,half a pump and leave it sitting there. No need to remove the pump at all but it has a quick release catch that pops it off with minimal air loss.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Pump a bit more inside, remove the pump and use the discharge valve to get the pressure down to your desired testing pressure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The schrader valve is universal to all handpumps,I use a car foot pump,half a pump and leave it sitting there. No need to remove the pump at all but it has a quick release catch that pops it off with minimal air loss.


That exactly!, with a foot pump, or my my compressor is quick and easy because of that.

the included hand pump is a Threaded tip, so by the time I finish undoing the Thread all the air has gone out

I'm probably overlooking something, but i don't see a way to quickly remove the Tip from the valve.

I'll try again when I get home, tomorrow most of my stuff are arriving, so I can finally start assembling the actual loop and do a proper leak test.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> "Should", being the operative word . . . .
> 
> Would be very interested to know if the RPM displays at max rpm, but becomes lost below that . . .
> 
> Tach signals come from switching the positive supply voltage to ground, thru a resistor, twice per revolution.
> 
> The CW611, like many higher end Lamptrons, has an output that's positive rail referenced, rather than negative rail, (or gnd) referenced.
> 
> That means that as the output voltage is reduced, the negative output rises increasingly above ground, closer to the positive rail, as opposed to the positive rail dropping closer to gnd.
> 
> Electrically, there is some advantage in doing this as it allows for implementing N-Channel devices instead of P-Channel ones.
> 
> The downside is that at 50%, or 6V output, the tach signal is a square wave between 6V at its low level, and 12V at high level, when referenced to gnd.
> 
> The tach signal usually needs to be a lot closer to gnd than that to be seen as a valid signal by the circuitry that it is applied to.
> 
> In light of that fact, the CW611 has internal circuitry that "flips" or inverts the tach signal levels to work with a positive rail referenced output, though iirc from testing, below 32% output, it stops working.
> 
> Compounding the problem in this case, is that the pump actually needs a constant 12 to 24V source, with respect to gnd, to run its internal circuitry properly.
> 
> Most pre-PWM D5's would voltage control, at least reasonably, from about 8V and up, but with a PWM version, that becomes more iffy.
> 
> Summing up, without looking at the tach signal on a scope, it's impossible to tell if it's a problem caused by the pump's circuitry, or the Lamptron's, or just a result of powering the pump from a positive rail reference output.
> 
> *My suggestion would be to control the pump from the mobo CPU fan header with real PWM and power it from a molex from the PSU as it was intended*.


The older D5 was indeed not PWM. I am not sure what I was thinking, since I do understand what PWM is and how it works. At any rate, on to the MB we go, right after I replace my dead temp sensor. Thank you for the help...enjoyed reading the tech commentary.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> Its standard for me now,you get security of having a watchdog on the header which detects fail too.


MB was the fall back with controller not reading RPMs. Obviously, it should have been the go to. Thank you for the help.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *The schrader valve is universal to all handpumps*,I use a car foot pump,half *a pump and leave it sitting there. No need to remove the pump at all but it has a quick release catch that pops it off with minimal air loss*.


^ That. Joe Blow bicycle tire hand pump. Leave it sitting.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Alternatively,put a ball valve between the valve and main body. Once up to pressure,close the ball valve and remove the pump.


----------



## emsj86

Maybe I'm missing something but almost everyone hand a drain port on there loop. Why not put a guage on say reservoir or even off one of the gpu ports not being used. Than like said above use the drain valve as the ball valve. All you would need is a guage and cheap air pump


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Alphacool GPX Zotac GTX 1060 block . First one

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20161123_122548_1.jpg.html


----------



## emsj86

My gtx 1080 FtW just came today and my water block and back plate should be here by the end of the day. Will do some new tubing runs buy some new acrylic for a new midate. (Stick with the blue or go white and or black acrylic?). Now to clean and sell these 780s. Pic of what I have now and will be tearing down for new 1080.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Alternatively,put a ball valve between the valve and main body. Once up to pressure,close the ball valve and remove the pump.


Genius! I like this idea








simple, and I do have spare valves which I picked up for easy drain / refill purposes.


----------



## Gabrielzm

PPC discount...

Gear up for the Holidays with Black Friday savings from Performance-PCs.com! These offers are only available Friday Nov. 25th, so get 'em while you can!

Also add this great coupon to your basket!

10% OFF ALL ORDERS!: "BKFRI16-10"


----------



## DirtyBear

Hi all
First time here and here is my rig
MB : Rampage 5 10th Anniversary
CPU : 5930K (it was from my old rig R5E and I am thinking 6900K )
M.2 : 950 Pro 512G
SSD : 850Pro 512G X2
HDD : Seagate 1T
RAM : Corsair 64G LPX
PSU : EVGA 1600 T2
Display Card : 2X Fury X
Case : Caselabs S8
Water cooling System :EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 2011-3 water Block
Black Ice SR2 Xtreme+ Multi Port Radiator - 360 X2 ,240 X1
Aquacoumputer : Aquaero 6XT , aqualis XT 450 ml , D5 USB X2
400 MPS flow sensor .


----------



## Questors

Nice build DirtyBear.


----------



## mxthunder

Few pics of my main rig after adding second 780Ti


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> Few pics of my main rig after adding second 780Ti
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great man.


----------



## Trestles126

Pedestal came in ordered two oc cool 360mmx60mm monsta rads for lower and a bunch of fittings off modmymods (they are having a 30% off sale) modded the a6 mount on radiator side to accept drop in mount.

Clockwerks custom res and waterplate should be in in a week or 2 stoked on how this is turning out


----------



## erso44

I need a tutorial how to clean my blocks or the whole watercooling setup


----------



## Sazexa

A few snap shots. Waiting for the LTT NF-F12's to restock and buying two more, then I'll be using an EK XE 480 with push/pull for this system.


----------



## DirtyBear

Can't wait


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Pedestal came in ordered two oc cool 360mmx60mm monsta rads for lower and a bunch of fittings off modmymods (they are having a 30% off sale) modded the a6 mount on radiator side to accept drop in mount.
> 
> Clockwerks custom res and waterplate should be in in a week or 2 stoked on how this is turning out
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


Man, that looks sweet!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Anyone know if xspc rads are any good?
Looking to get a xspc ex480 to use as an external rad. Looks relatively cheap and could easily mount to my desk using L brackets.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Anyone know if xspc rads are any good?
> Looking to get a xspc ex480 to use as an external rad. Looks relatively cheap and could easily mount to my desk using L brackets.


They're mediocre at best, but not terrible either. So, depending on how cheap you can get it, it might be worth it.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Anyone know if xspc rads are any good?
> Looking to get a xspc ex480 to use as an external rad. Looks relatively cheap and could easily mount to my desk using L brackets.


i have been using a pair of ex360s and havent had any complaints. in my previous build they cooled a phenom 1100t, the NB, and 3 480s in sli. now they are in a loop with a 9590 and a pair of 1070s.

i stick with very mild overclocks (if any). at 220w the 9590 isnt know to run cool. at stock speeds, my temps on gpus and cpu are generally under 30C and coolant temp is usually around 25-27C


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Anyone know if xspc rads are any good?
> Looking to get a xspc ex480 to use as an external rad. Looks relatively cheap and could easily mount to my desk using L brackets.


As someone who has an EX 120, 360, and 480 they are basically just decent bang for your buck radiators. They are never going to win for performance, but they are also pretty cheap compared to a lot of the better performing radiators. That isn't to say that they won't be able to handle the job. You spend more money and you will get more performance. I can't really think of a significantly better performing radiator for the same price.

The best thing about them may be that they are very very common and thus you can often pick up used ones for cheap. I found someone selling a EX480 locally for $30 last year, and bought a EX120 from someone on this forum for $20 shipped.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Anyone know if xspc rads are any good?
> Looking to get a xspc ex480 to use as an external rad. Looks relatively cheap and could easily mount to my desk using L brackets.


Never had a problem with the RX series.

TCO


----------



## alltheGHz

Hey guys,

So my pump just killed itself. Straight up suicide. I'm using my 212 evo for now but I need a new one, any suggestions for a pump in a single block loop?


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> So my pump just killed itself. Straight up suicide. I'm using my 212 evo for now but I need a new one, any suggestions for a pump in a single block loop?


d5 vario is always a number one choice


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> d5 vario is always a number one choice


I second that


----------



## LiquidHaus

you should try out the new alphacool vpp755. you'll have to get a new revision pump top for it but it looks promising.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> you should try out the new alphacool vpp755. you'll have to get a new revision pump top for it but it looks promising.


I would wait for testing in regards to longevity first. The D5 is still king of the hill for silence and longevity.


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would wait for testing in regards to longevity first. The D5 is still king of the hill for *silence* and longevity.


*fixed


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> *fixed


I thought my d5 from EKWB was pretty quiet and I didn't even optimize it, just used stock settings. But sure if you wan't a complete inaudible pc it wouldn't work.


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> I thought my d5 from EKWB was pretty quiet and I didn't even optimize it, just used stock settings. But sure if you wan't a complete inaudible pc it wouldn't work.


no i didnt mean it like that. D5 is quiet pump, but its not a king of the hill according the noise. VP755 are quieter http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/10/31/alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755-pump-review/


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> *fixed




Except no,the variances are well within MoE.

Look at the useful part of the graph,the 1 to 2 GPM part,seeing as this is the normal flowrate for a good waterloop. Virtually the same...

Also worth pointing out that this was done in a free flowing loop with no restriction.
Quote:


> Now&#8230;.in a possible oversight in the testing procedure, the data recorded was taken on a loop running virtually unrestricted. It was pointed out to me after testing was complete that the pump noise will change when under load and therefore my data may not be a true representation of the pump in "normal operation". The next time I am testing a pump I will re-test the VPP755 at the same time and update that data into this review. For now, the data and comparisons are as already mentioned, taken from the almost unrestricted simple loop pictured above.


With restriction,the pump noise will lower for both pumps,how much I couldnt say.
I await the revised review with,hopefully,the long term use findings.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Anyone know if xspc rads are any good?
> Looking to get a xspc ex480 to use as an external rad. Looks relatively cheap and could easily mount to my desk using L brackets.


Ive got an XSPC ex360 up top and an ex280 in the front of my enthoo pro m which are cooling a 4670k @ 4.4ghz, gtx 780ti @ 1137mhz, CPU block is an XSPC raystorm v3, and gpu is cooled by an aquacomputer kryographics full block. Pump is a virtually silent Alphacool DDC310.

CPU idles at around 29'c (no speedstep. locked clocks) and hits 37'c in gaming and 45'c using occt torture test. I did delid the cpu a couple years ago, shave down the lip that contacts the top of the CPU PCB so it sits lower and actually makes contact, and applied liquid metal. Using air cooling (thermalright venemous X), that mod alone dropped max cpu temps from 90'c to just over 60'c.

the overclocked gtx 780ti idles at 27'c and maxes out around 40'c in gaming.

With a single ex360 the cpu would hit 51'c while gaming and the gpu would hit 45'c.

From what i have seen in various reviews, my GPU block is probably one of the most restrictive around and the CPU block is average in restriction. Combined with a 360 and 280, I worry about the amount of coolant flow because the DDC310 is actually even slower than most 10w Laing DDC pumps. It only runs at 3169rpm (current speed) and specs show it can do only 200l/h. The upside is i can't hear the pump at all. I was thinking about adding a second ddc310 for redundancy which would additionally increase flow due to the higher head pressure overcoming the restrictive components. Only thing is, so few companies make dual-DDC pump tops. XSPC, EK, Watercool, Swiftech, and i believe aquacomputer are all EOL and very few remain in shops.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Thanks for your help people!


----------



## NOSVAGATOU

PERSONAL RIG "PROJECT THUNDERSTORM"
CPU: i7 4790k @4.6ghz
MOBO: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI FORMULA
RAM: KINGSTON HYPER X BEAST 16GB 2400mhz @2400mhz
GPU: ASUS STRIX GTX 1070 OC
PSU: CORSAIR AX860
SSD: SAMSUNG EVO 850 250GB+ CRUSIAL 240GB
HDD: 3x 4TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA
WATERCOOLING: EK D5 PUMP ,EK RESERVOIR, EK FITTINGS, EK CPU BLOCK, EK RADIATOR, EK COOLANT, EK TUBING!
AIRCOOLING: 1x CORSAIR AF 120 3x 120 corsair high sp white led 2X PHANTEKS 140 AF


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> d5 vario is always a number one choice


EK or swiftech?


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> EK or swiftech?


The brand is pretty irrelevant as Laing makes all of them no matter whos name is on the sticker. You might want to get one with a top that matches your other components. Other than the top and the warranty, the name is the only difference.


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> PERSONAL RIG "PROJECT THUNDERSTORM"
> SNIP!!!!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you mad or something? Why was all the text in capital letters?
Click to expand...


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> PERSONAL RIG "PROJECT THUNDERSTORM"
> SNIP!!!!quote]
> 
> Are you mad or something? Why was all the text in capital letters?


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> PERSONAL RIG "PROJECT THUNDERSTORM"
> ]SNIP


Are you mad or something? All of your text is in capital letters


----------



## mercinator16

Is it normal for plating to peel off the supremacy evo?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guy I'm looking to replace the two silver stone fans that came with my AIO , i haven't really been following fans as of late , so what are the top 120mm fans for rads with a good performance/noise ratio?


----------



## AllGamer

Nice and elegant.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> PERSONAL RIG "PROJECT THUNDERSTORM"
> CPU: i7 4790k @4.6ghz
> MOBO: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI FORMULA
> RAM: KINGSTON HYPER X BEAST 16GB 2400mhz @2400mhz
> GPU: ASUS STRIX GTX 1070 OC
> PSU: CORSAIR AX860
> SSD: SAMSUNG EVO 850 250GB+ CRUSIAL 240GB
> HDD: 3x 4TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA
> WATERCOOLING: EK D5 PUMP ,EK RESERVOIR, EK FITTINGS, EK CPU BLOCK, EK RADIATOR, EK COOLANT, EK TUBING!
> AIRCOOLING: 1x CORSAIR AF 120 3x 120 corsair high sp white led 2X PHANTEKS 140 AF
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> The brand is pretty irrelevant as Laing makes all of them no matter whos name is on the sticker. You might want to get one with a top that matches your other components. Other than the top and the warranty, the name is the only difference.


Thanks again!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Is it normal for plating to peel off the supremacy evo?


No it isn't.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Is it normal for plating to peel off the supremacy evo?


Hell no... I would contact EK on this matter. They have been very helpful in the past.


----------



## mercinator16

Is there an EK rep here I can get in touch with?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercinator16*
> 
> Is there an EK rep here I can get in touch with?


There is an owners thread here.
http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club


----------



## kariverson

Guys what do you think would look better in my build with hardline tubes? (They'll be here within the week)
Blood Red coolant, pastel red or UV Red? (with the current desktop UV Red would be awesome but I have to think of the future too







)
Plus after all the horror stories with the premixed coolants is there any respected brand that won't leave plasticizer for at least a year?


----------



## eucalyptus

would an Alphacool 360 30mm radiator be enough for overclocked MSI 1080 and a 6700K?


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> Guys what do you think would look better in my build with hardline tubes? (They'll be here within the week)
> Blood Red coolant, pastel red or UV Red? (with the current desktop UV Red would be awesome but I have to think of the future too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Plus after all the horror stories with the premixed coolants is there any respected brand that won't leave plasticizer for at least a year?


The coolant is not responsible for plasticizer it is the tubing that does that. For tubing stay with big brands I ran Primoflex tubing no signs of fading or plasticizer. For coolant man u run whatever color makes u happy and matches your build.

Tubing tho I would recommend to clean up a little, I would run from the Pump straight to the rad-cpu-res that way u don't have the tubes crossing like that. Both is the same cooling wise just cosmetic about the only thing u changing

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> The coolant is not responsible for plasticizer it is the tubing that does that. For tubing stay with big brands I ran Primoflex tubing no signs of fading or plasticizer. For coolant man u run whatever color makes u happy and matches your build.
> 
> Tubing tho I would recommend to clean up a little, I would run from the Pump straight to the rad-cpu-res that way u don't have the tubes crossing like that. Both is the same cooling wise just cosmetic about the only thing u changing
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


The tubing I went with is XSPC's 14/10 PETG tubing.
Yeah when I install them I will definitely change the order a bit. Especially since I might need to flip the rad because the xspc 270 photon might be too tall to go below the rad.
I would swear I read here that it is the coolant that gums up waterblocks etc. :S


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> The coolant is not responsible for plasticizer it is the tubing that does that. For tubing stay with big brands I ran Primoflex tubing no signs of fading or plasticizer. For coolant man u run whatever color makes u happy and matches your build.
> 
> Tubing tho I would recommend to clean up a little, I would run from the Pump straight to the rad-cpu-res that way u don't have the tubes crossing like that. Both is the same cooling wise just cosmetic about the only thing u changing
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing I went with is XSPC's 14/10 PETG tubing.
> Yeah when I install them I will definitely change the order a bit. Especially since I might need to flip the rad because the xspc 270 photon might be too tall to go below the rad.
> I would swear I read here that it is the coolant that gums up waterblocks etc. :S
Click to expand...

Some say the particles of Pastel will settle in places but I haven't had any issues with it clogging stuff up tho. I run Pastel only issue I have had is color change with the Red.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Typically what "gums" up the works is flexible tubing that has leeches its plasticizer due to heat being high enough to cause it to do so.

Not that coolant choice doesn't have anything to do with it. Obviously, rigid tubing builds need not worry about plasticizer as much if at all, unless flex tubing is in the loop.

~Ceadder


----------



## karnak12

Ok, so I haven't posted very often on OCN, but I do lurk around here often. It's been very informative and I've learned a lot. Both from people who've made mistakes and owned up to it, as well as experts giving good information on how to do it right.
I have built a water-cooled PC (Asus ROG MAXIMUS VIII FORMULA, Intel i7-6700K @ 4.00GHz, EVGA GTX 1080 FTW, 32GB, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX). It took me a while to do it (May-Oct) but I love it. It is so freakin' fast I can hardly believe it.
Anyway, my problem: I have an Aqualis reservoir (I cannot describe how beautiful the German parts are - words fail me) that works just fine but the water return empties into the top of the reservoir. When the water hits the top of the level in the reservoir it foams considerably. I have provided a picture showing this.
Fortunately the water pump is in the PWM mode and I have yet to get the temp up enough to cause the pump to go full-stroke. The only time I have seen it at that level was when I was first setting the system up. Then I was running it in the full DC mode to condition the coolant/system. At the higher pump level there are some bubbles that do get sucked into the intake of the pump at the bottom of the reservoir.
My question is, how do I reduce the foaming in the top of the reservoir?. I thought of getting a plastic tube and threading the end to go into the return entry at the top, extending to below the level of the water in the reservoir. Not sure how well that would work.
I would greatly appreciate hearing comments from other people who may have run into this problem, and learn how they dealt with it.

Respectfully



20161127_123345.jpg 2676k .jpg file


----------



## chantruong

I'm here to submit my application to this club.


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chantruong*
> 
> I'm here to submit my application to this club.


That looks awesome dude, nice black and white build! You got to straighten that reservoir though


----------



## emsj86

You know when you are a kid and don't listen and you re parents or friends tell you after they told you so. Well that's how I fee right now flushing out the aurora to install my new gtx 1080 FtW.


----------



## chantruong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> That looks awesome dude, nice black and white build! You got to straighten that reservoir though


Thanks,

I will straighten the reservoir as soon as I get another fan bracket. For now I am too emotionally and physically drained from this whole process and will reap the rewards







.


----------



## Brulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karnak12*
> 
> Ok, so I haven't posted very often on OCN, but I do lurk around here often. It's been very informative and I've learned a lot. Both from people who've made mistakes and owned up to it, as well as experts giving good information on how to do it right.
> I have built a water-cooled PC (Asus ROG MAXIMUS VIII FORMULA, Intel i7-6700K @ 4.00GHz, EVGA GTX 1080 FTW, 32GB, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX). It took me a while to do it (May-Oct) but I love it. It is so freakin' fast I can hardly believe it.
> Anyway, my problem: I have an Aqualis reservoir (I cannot describe how beautiful the German parts are - words fail me) that works just fine but the water return empties into the top of the reservoir. When the water hits the top of the level in the reservoir it foams considerably. I have provided a picture showing this.
> Fortunately the water pump is in the PWM mode and I have yet to get the temp up enough to cause the pump to go full-stroke. The only time I have seen it at that level was when I was first setting the system up. Then I was running it in the full DC mode to condition the coolant/system. At the higher pump level there are some bubbles that do get sucked into the intake of the pump at the bottom of the reservoir.
> My question is, how do I reduce the foaming in the top of the reservoir?. I thought of getting a plastic tube and threading the end to go into the return entry at the top, extending to below the level of the water in the reservoir. Not sure how well that would work.
> I would greatly appreciate hearing comments from other people who may have run into this problem, and learn how they dealt with it.
> 
> Respectfully
> 
> 
> 
> 20161127_123345.jpg 2676k .jpg file


https://www.pccasegear.com/products/25077/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm

^

That or something that fits you particular will fix that issue, it just keeps the return below the water line and stops some the turbulence (is that the right word)


----------



## DarthBaggins

That won't work with the Aqualis, but foaming sounds like there is something left in your loop from when you flushed your rads initially


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> PERSONAL RIG "PROJECT THUNDERSTORM"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: i7 4790k @4.6ghz
> MOBO: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI FORMULA
> RAM: KINGSTON HYPER X BEAST 16GB 2400mhz @2400mhz
> GPU: ASUS STRIX GTX 1070 OC
> PSU: CORSAIR AX860
> SSD: SAMSUNG EVO 850 250GB+ CRUSIAL 240GB
> HDD: 3x 4TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA
> WATERCOOLING: EK D5 PUMP ,EK RESERVOIR, EK FITTINGS, EK CPU BLOCK, EK RADIATOR, EK COOLANT, EK TUBING!
> AIRCOOLING: 1x CORSAIR AF 120 3x 120 corsair high sp white led 2X PHANTEKS 140 AF


Elegant and restrained, good job!


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> Guys what do you think would look better in my build with hardline tubes? (They'll be here within the week)
> Blood Red coolant, pastel red or UV Red? (with the current desktop UV Red would be awesome but I have to think of the future too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Plus after all the horror stories with the premixed coolants is there any respected brand that won't leave plasticizer for at least a year?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The plasticizer comes from the tubing, not the coolant. Primochill LRT seems to produce less of it than older tubings. EK's black tubing (can't rmember the brand) won't leach any plasticizer, but it won't let you see the coolant.

As far as coolants, pastels are notorious for changing colors, and in loops that don't run 24-7 they might leave sediment that ends up gunking up blocks. Red coolants, whether pastel or transparent, will stain. Good brands include EK, Mayhems, and Primochill.

EDIT: My post was too late, this had been fully answered by the time I posted. Sorry


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> The plasticizer comes from the tubing, not the coolant. Primochill LRT seems to produce less of it than older tubings. EK's black tubing (can't rmember the brand) won't leach any plasticizer, but it won't let you see the coolant.
> 
> As far as coolants, pastels are notorious for changing colors, and in loops that don't run 24-7 they might leave sediment that ends up gunking up blocks. Red coolants, whether pastel or transparent, will stain. Good brands include EK, Mayhems, and Primochill.
> 
> EDIT: My post was too late, this had been fully answered by the time I posted. Sorry


EK's is called ZMT. They also have a Clear version now from what I can tell.


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> The plasticizer comes from the tubing, not the coolant. Primochill LRT seems to produce less of it than older tubings. EK's black tubing (can't rmember the brand) won't leach any plasticizer, but it won't let you see the coolant.
> 
> As far as coolants, pastels are notorious for changing colors, and in loops that don't run 24-7 they might leave sediment that ends up gunking up blocks. Red coolants, whether pastel or transparent, will stain. Good brands include EK, Mayhems, and Primochill.
> 
> EDIT: My post was too late, this had been fully answered by the time I posted. Sorry


cool. I ordered Mayhems 1L blood red one. Since 1st Q of 2017 I pan on adding a gpu to the loop I'll how it runs for 2-3 months


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *karnak12*
> 
> Ok, so I haven't posted very often on OCN, but I do lurk around here often. It's been very informative and I've learned a lot. Both from people who've made mistakes and owned up to it, as well as experts giving good information on how to do it right.
> I have built a water-cooled PC (Asus ROG MAXIMUS VIII FORMULA, Intel i7-6700K @ 4.00GHz, EVGA GTX 1080 FTW, 32GB, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX). It took me a while to do it (May-Oct) but I love it. It is so freakin' fast I can hardly believe it.
> Anyway, my problem: I have an Aqualis reservoir (I cannot describe how beautiful the German parts are - words fail me) that works just fine but the water return empties into the top of the reservoir. When the water hits the top of the level in the reservoir it foams considerably. I have provided a picture showing this.
> Fortunately the water pump is in the PWM mode and I have yet to get the temp up enough to cause the pump to go full-stroke. The only time I have seen it at that level was when I was first setting the system up. Then I was running it in the full DC mode to condition the coolant/system. At the higher pump level there are some bubbles that do get sucked into the intake of the pump at the bottom of the reservoir.
> My question is, how do I reduce the foaming in the top of the reservoir?. I thought of getting a plastic tube and threading the end to go into the return entry at the top, extending to below the level of the water in the reservoir. Not sure how well that would work.
> I would greatly appreciate hearing comments from other people who may have run into this problem, and learn how they dealt with it.
> 
> Respectfully
> 
> 
> 
> 20161127_123345.jpg 2676k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products/25077/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm
> 
> ^
> 
> That or something that fits you particular will fix that issue, it just keeps the return below the water line and stops some the turbulence (is that the right word)
Click to expand...

This one might do the trick, it threads in from the top.


----------



## AmcieK

If its wrong topic to ask of this , sory :E

But i need some help . I buy some time ago raystorm 750 ex240 , in last week i buy used gpu block and make new loop .

Now i have problem with air in loop :/

Pump off > http://imgur.com/IJYA0NB
pump on , after shake case > http://imgur.com/7L8eg0Q
gpu block many air bubles
http://imgur.com/lzNMH2X

I try shake case many times , change pump speed , squeezing tubing ,. Its little better but still many of air ... Any ideas ? what to do more ? what check ?
Sry. for my english


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> If its wrong topic to ask of this , sory :E
> 
> But i need some help . I buy some time ago raystorm 750 ex240 , in last week i buy used gpu block and make new loop .
> 
> Now i have problem with air in loop :/
> 
> Pump off > http://imgur.com/IJYA0NB
> pump on , after shake case > http://imgur.com/7L8eg0Q
> gpu block many air bubles
> http://imgur.com/lzNMH2X
> 
> I try shake case many times , change pump speed , squeezing tubing ,. Its little better but still many of air ... Any ideas ? what to do more ? what check ?
> Sry. for my english


Did you try the trick people said about using 2 drops of dish washer, into your reservoir, so then it will go across your loop, it should kill most of the small air bubbles.

as for the BIG air gaps, it should go away if you turn the pump to full speed, full RPM


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> If its wrong topic to ask of this , sory :E
> 
> But i need some help . I buy some time ago raystorm 750 ex240 , in last week i buy used gpu block and make new loop .
> 
> Now i have problem with air in loop :/
> 
> Pump off > http://imgur.com/IJYA0NB
> pump on , after shake case > http://imgur.com/7L8eg0Q
> gpu block many air bubles
> http://imgur.com/lzNMH2X
> 
> I try shake case many times , change pump speed , squeezing tubing ,. Its little better but still many of air ... Any ideas ? what to do more ? what check ?
> Sry. for my english


Air will go away by itself, just make sure to keep the reservoir topped off as the fluid displaces the air gaps in your loop.

TCO


----------



## khemist

Mine for now.


----------



## khemist

Mine currently.


----------



## ruffhi

wait ... the tubes dump out the back ... what happens out there?


----------



## VSG

Looks like QDCs and an external radiator/pump/reservoir.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> wait ... the tubes dump out the back ... what happens out there?


https://imageshack.com/i/pl0LMnQPj

External setup.


----------



## alltheGHz

I've always thought external rad/pump systems were interesting, after linus botched his whole setup it really made me rethink it and decide that it wouldn't be worth it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOSVAGATOU*
> 
> PERSONAL RIG "PROJECT THUNDERSTORM"
> CPU: i7 4790k @4.6ghz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> MOBO: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI FORMULA
> RAM: KINGSTON HYPER X BEAST 16GB 2400mhz @2400mhz
> GPU: ASUS STRIX GTX 1070 OC
> PSU: CORSAIR AX860
> SSD: SAMSUNG EVO 850 250GB+ CRUSIAL 240GB
> HDD: 3x 4TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA
> WATERCOOLING: EK D5 PUMP ,EK RESERVOIR, EK FITTINGS, EK CPU BLOCK, EK RADIATOR, EK COOLANT, EK TUBING!
> AIRCOOLING: 1x CORSAIR AF 120 3x 120 corsair high sp white led 2X PHANTEKS 140 AF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I think I spoke to you on Facebook, one your posts to the Ek Club or whatnot about how you got the fluid so blue, it was primochil correct? All I could find was UV Electric Blue.

TCO


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/po8l2namj


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pl0LMnQPj
> 
> External setup.


Your mic picking up any of that wind noise from the rad?


----------



## khemist

No, the mic sits there when i'm not using it, it sits over my monitor when i'm using it.


----------



## Radmanhs

Is this how loud my pump should be for he first several hours? I know it is hard to bleed the rad above, but it seems to be louder than I expected overall

I also don't like the sound that is between the water noise

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YHkobGgzmmY

Update. The weird noise between the water noise is from not having the res plug in


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> External setup.


Love that idea, and for the Bullet a good way to go I think. How are you liking it? Temps good? Single big rad more than enough in that scenario I suspect.


----------



## Deeptek

Im not sure why you would get a LAN style case meant for travel and put an external set up with it.. Not hating.. Just saying..


----------



## emsj86

Just for the time being until I have time around Christmas to do the loop and make some mods. Added the 1080. Disappointed it performs on par with my 780s in sli.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Love that idea, and for the Bullet a good way to go I think. How are you liking it? Temps good? Single big rad more than enough in that scenario I suspect.


I played some BF1 for a while last night and gpu was hitting 39c with fans at 700rpm, i'll have to test it for longer tonight.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

khemist, what rad are you using with what fans, and what`s ur ambient ?


----------



## khemist

XSPC AX480 rad with corsair ML120 fans, i'm not sure of the ambient temp just now.


----------



## huckincharlie

more to see http://www.overclock.net/t/1616157/scratch-build-copper-one


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> XSPC AX480 rad with corsair ML120 fans, i'm not sure of the ambient temp just now.


These are pretty sweet temps for a 480 rad, im lookin at the 560 models in hopes to cool CPU+GPU with some nice low temps with lowrpm fans.


----------



## Radmanhs

Does anyone have an idea why my pump sounds like a waterfall? It's working, but there are still air bubbles., any idea how long some of these will take to get out? It's been a total of 7ish hours so far


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> 
> more to see http://www.overclock.net/t/1616157/scratch-build-copper-one


Case looks hella baller.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more to see http://www.overclock.net/t/1616157/scratch-build-copper-one


I would pay good money for a case like that.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more to see http://www.overclock.net/t/1616157/scratch-build-copper-one


Looks like Parvum + CL SMA8 had a baby, I like


----------



## eucalyptus

The Heatkiller tube reservoir is just insanely good looking







Anyone who used them and have some nice pictures?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I would pay good money for a case like that.


http://www.parvumsystems.com/product/l1-0-atx


----------



## alltheGHz

Has anyone gone through with a EKWB warranty claim? I need some help claiming one.


----------



## chantruong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more to see http://www.overclock.net/t/1616157/scratch-build-copper-one


Freaking Epic


----------



## LiquidHaus

it's obvious he took inspiration from parvum for the grill designs but other than that it seems completely unique to me.

it's hard to be original these days in regards to tower cases.

I dig it!

but my favorite part is that raised window....

I NEED THAT.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> The Heatkiller tube reservoir is just insanely good looking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone who used them and have some nice pictures?


I asked the same question awhile back.

Here is one user pic of the tube: http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/790

I would be using it but I don't like the stainless steel at the bottom.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I asked the same question awhile back.
> 
> Here is one user pic of the tube: http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/790
> 
> I would be using it but I don't like the stainless steel at the bottom.


Thanks mate







I love them. Never thought a square shape would fit. But for my purpose, they do.

Although, need sponsors to be able to do my idea... 4x D5 200mm Heatkiller tube, that's too much for my wallet at the moment.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I asked the same question awhile back.
> 
> Here is one user pic of the tube: http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/790
> 
> I would be using it but I don't like the stainless steel at the bottom.


Lovely looking bit of kit that. Where is the best place to buy Heatkiller in the UK/EU?


----------



## khemist

Probably best ordering direct from watercool.de, watercoolinguk has some of the GPU blocks, reservoirs and cpu blocks in stock but delivery isn't the quickest.

I get a lot of my stuff from highflow.nl, i think they have most of the range listed but not much in stock at the minute.


----------



## SQZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I get a lot of my stuff from highflow.nl, i think they have most of the range listed but not much in stock at the minute.


And they include a lollipop with every order


----------



## wizardbro

Highflow is the best.
Best customer service as well. Like... better than Amazon good.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love them. Never thought a square shape would fit. But for my purpose, they do.
> 
> Although, need sponsors to be able to do my idea... 4x D5 200mm Heatkiller tube, that's too much for my wallet at the moment.


That's allot of Res. I thought 2x 300 Res was a bit to much for my Build.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> That's allot of Res. I thought 2x 300 Res was a bit to much for my Build.


I only do extreme things







Design purpose only







Reached out to a few companies, hopefully, it goes as planned









Let me just tell you this, a ITX motherboard in the new Corsair's 570X case and 4 of the Heatkiller tube reservoirs







ITX? Well, that gives more space for water cooling hahah


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Has anyone gone through with a EKWB warranty claim? I need some help claiming one.


I had dealt with them in the past. I had to RMA my waterblocks and they were swift and helpful. If you need to make a claim, go to EKWB website and sign up. Then from there, create a ticket.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I only do extreme things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Design purpose only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reached out to a few companies, hopefully, it goes as planned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me just tell you this, a ITX motherboard in the new Corsair's 570X case and 4 of the Heatkiller tube reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ITX? Well, that gives more space for water cooling hahah


My Build is beyond Overkill at this point.

If my 300mm Res does not fit on the res plate's in my Case-Lab Case I might grab two Tube 200 Res for my Case and sell my other two res or save it for another build.


----------



## SteezyTN

My view for the night... well, every night


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I only do extreme things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Design purpose only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reached out to a few companies, hopefully, it goes as planned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me just tell you this, a ITX motherboard in the new Corsair's 570X case and 4 of the Heatkiller tube reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ITX? Well, that gives more space for water cooling hahah


But why?

I just dont understand the reason for 4 res etc with just an ITX build? It makes no sense to do this.....just throwing watercooling kit into a case does not a good build make..


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My view for the night... well, every night


what are those fittings?


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> what are those fittings?


First I thought it was barrow, but it seems like it's

PrimoChill 1/2in. Rigid RevolverSX Series Fitting


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> But why?
> 
> I just dont understand the reason for 4 res etc with just an ITX build? It makes no sense to do this.....just throwing watercooling kit into a case does not a good build make..


99% of all water cooling makes no sense today when air coolers are so close to performance/silence.

I got the inspiration from L3p pipe build. Amazing creation, completely love how he made it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> *99% of all water cooling makes no sense today when air coolers are so close to performance/silence.*
> 
> I got the inspiration from L3p pipe build. Amazing creation, completely love how he made it.


There is not an aircooler made today that can match watercooling on GPU's.


----------



## bloodycrashboy

Hi guys, I've just finished my first custom water cooled rig and also my first (minor) case mod.

Thought I would share a few pics.

Case and components are 4 years old.

Reason I water cooled such an old build was the fact that it is still a very capable PC and the GTX 690 Graphics card still runs my favourite game (Asseto Corsa) at max settings.

The thing that bugged me the most was the noise of the fan on the graphics card at 100%

Also wanted to overclock it so needed to get temps down (77 C when gaming on air cooling)

Decided to replace the AIO cpu cooler as well.

Now have temperatures when gaming at around 45 to 55 C

I'm very happy with the temps I now have.

Done some mild overclocking to the GPU's, 150 MHz on the core and 400MHz on the memory.

The trusty old 3930K is still plugging away at 4GHz and has been that way since I built this PC way back in October 2012.

Anyway, here are some picks, let me know what you think.

BTW, this is my first attempt at a custom loop.

This is what I started with



case stripped down for mods and powder coating



positioning of the front radiator



front radiator in place after a little bit of cutting and riveting.





Back from the powder coaters



My beloved GTX 690 with it's massive copper water cooler



trying to decide how its going to work



my bending jig and a lot of mistakes



Getting it together



Leak testing



add some colour







did some cutting at work



Finished


----------



## Kenjiwing

Having access to a waterjet at work must be awesome


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I had a dream the other night that I ordered Monsoon fittings and was traumatized when they arrived at the post office after I opened the box.....

Figured I would let you guys know.

TCO


----------



## maybach123

are monsoons that bad, I am thinking about getting the economy fittings since the primochill ghosts were discontinued.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> what are those fittings?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> First I thought it was barrow, but it seems like it's
> 
> PrimoChill 1/2in. Rigid RevolverSX Series Fitting


They are actually the older regular Primochill Revolver fittings.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> are monsoons that bad, I am thinking about getting the economy fittings since the primochill ghosts were discontinued.


I have no experience with them at all, I was never able to get past the look of them.

TCO


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have no experience with them at all, I was never able to get past the look of them.
> 
> TCO


yeah I am not a big fan of the look either, but unless I can find 22 (primochill ghost) black nickel fittings. I am kind of stuck with the economy fittings. the revolver fittings are 0.1 mm to large .


Edit: does anyone know of other 13/10mm hardline fittings in black nickel?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have no experience with them at all, I was never able to get past the look of them.
> 
> TCO


You're not talking about the locking hard-line fittings right? Cause them things bee eee ooh tee fuhl. Lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> You're not talking about the locking hard-line fittings right? Cause them things bee eee ooh tee fuhl. Lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The Ones you have connecting the GPUS are the ones I was dreaming about, yes.









It's like I had ordered something else, and when I opened the box I just remember being horrified.









TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Bumb









Lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> *Number*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol


?

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> ?
> 
> TCO


Damn autocorrect lol, fixed


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Damn autocorrect lol, fixed


I can tell you this, after you plated them, I will say that they look great in your build.









TCO


----------



## wizardbro

Question: With acrylic tubing and compression fittings with double orings.. is the tube supposed to sit as far as possible inside the fitting? Like sitting past the 2nd oring, or is the tube just touching the 2nd oring and then fastened and locked by the screw on part and first oring good enough?
I'm referring to the 2nd oring as the one that's generally not supposed to be removed inside a compression fitting.
Asking because I'm doing a series of tiny tubes under 2cm long that sit in tight, unmovable runs and having both ends sit deep inside fitting isn't possible.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Question: With acrylic tubing and compression fittings with double orings.. is the tube supposed to sit as far as possible inside the fitting? Like sitting past the 2nd oring, or is the tube just touching the 2nd oring and then fastened and locked by the screw on part and first oring good enough?
> I'm referring to the 2nd oring as the one that's generally not supposed to be removed inside a compression fitting.
> Asking because I'm doing a series of tiny tubes under 2cm long that sit in tight, unmovable runs and having both ends sit deep inside fitting isn't possible.


Only one way to find out, leak test!!

TCO


----------



## bloodycrashboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Having access to a waterjet at work must be awesome


It has it's advantages 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is not an aircooler made today that can match watercooling on GPU's.


very true, my dual GPU's run 30 degrees Celsius cooler ( 86 Fahrenheit ) than the stock air cooler under load.
also silent operation with water.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Question: With acrylic tubing and compression fittings with double orings.. is the tube supposed to sit as far as possible inside the fitting? Like sitting past the 2nd oring, or is the tube just touching the 2nd oring and then fastened and locked by the screw on part and first oring good enough?
> I'm referring to the 2nd oring as the one that's generally not supposed to be removed inside a compression fitting.
> Asking because I'm doing a series of tiny tubes under 2cm long that sit in tight, unmovable runs and having both ends sit deep inside fitting isn't possible.


do you mean two o rings total, or two inside the base part of the fitting?
My xspc fittings have 3 total (2 inside) and they seal fine if they're only going past the first internal o ring, assuming the tubing is perfectly straight.

I would feel a little uneasy about not sealing the only internal o ring if that is the case. iirc though, monsoons v1 economy fittings didn't have any internal o ring at all. I remember really disliking those for that reason when I tried them.


----------



## kariverson

So unlucky guys, the Chinese seller I was dealing with has sent everything right until now it mattered. Instead of my 270/d5 pump reservoir combo I ordered he sent me a plastic bottle.... Postponing the build again...

EDIT: Turns out my order was sent in two packages and I wasn't informed.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I can tell you this, after you plated them, I will say that they look great in your build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thanks homey.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Question: With acrylic tubing and compression fittings with double orings.. is the tube supposed to sit as far as possible inside the fitting? Like sitting past the 2nd oring, or is the tube just touching the 2nd oring and then fastened and locked by the screw on part and first oring good enough?
> I'm referring to the 2nd oring as the one that's generally not supposed to be removed inside a compression fitting.
> Asking because I'm doing a series of tiny tubes under 2cm long that sit in tight, unmovable runs and having both ends sit deep inside fitting isn't possible.


The deeper oring is a sealing oring. The one right under the screw on part is more of a locking device than sealing. (unless we're talking about c47's or similar)


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thanks homey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deeper oring is a sealing oring. The one right under the screw on part is more of a locking device than sealing. (unless we're talking about c47's or similar)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> do you mean two o rings total, or two inside the base part of the fitting?
> My xspc fittings have 3 total (2 inside) and they seal fine if they're only going past the first internal o ring, assuming the tubing is perfectly straight.
> 
> I would feel a little uneasy about not sealing the only internal o ring if that is the case. iirc though, monsoons v1 economy fittings didn't have any internal o ring at all. I remember really disliking those for that reason when I tried them.


Should have clarified which fitting sorry. It's the bitspower compression fittings, enhanced multilink. It has two o-rings total. One is loose and the other is fixed in the base.

My tube is on/touching the base oring/2nd one, but it's not really going past it to form a 100% seal. So I'm relying on the first oring which is screwed on to keep everything in check.
I'm guessing that's a no go and the tube opening has to be past the 2nd oring as well. It's just that, it's really hard to do that in the small tight runs I'm doing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Should have clarified which fitting sorry. It's the bitspower compression fittings, enhanced multilink. It has two o-rings total. One is loose and the other is fixed in the base.
> 
> My tube is on/touching the base oring/2nd one, but it's not really going past it to form a 100% seal. So I'm relying on the first oring which is screwed on to keep everything in check.
> I'm guessing that's a no go and the tube opening has to be past the 2nd oring as well. It's just that, it's really hard to do that in the small tight runs I'm doing.


It needs to be secured in both.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Use some water and dish soap in a bowl. Dop the tube in than push the tube in. Doesn't always slide in perfect. Also chamber the tube first


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> 99% of all water cooling makes no sense today when air coolers are so close to performance/silence.


Except everything you just said is absolutely, positively, inaccurate.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodycrashboy*
> 
> It has it's advantages
> very true, my dual GPU's run 30 degrees Celsius cooler ( 86 Fahrenheit ) than the stock air cooler under load.
> also silent operation with water.


My GPU used to hit 84'c with the stock cooler and now i hit a max of 42'c while gaming.


----------



## bloodycrashboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is not an aircooler made today that can match watercooling on GPU's.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> My GPU used to hit 84'c with the stock cooler and now i hit a max of 42'c while gaming.


wow, that is an awesome drop in temps:thumb:


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Should have clarified which fitting sorry. It's the bitspower compression fittings, enhanced multilink. It has two o-rings total. One is loose and the other is fixed in the base.
> 
> My tube is on/touching the base oring/2nd one, but it's not really going past it to form a 100% seal. So I'm relying on the first oring which is screwed on to keep everything in check.
> I'm guessing that's a no go and the tube opening has to be past the 2nd oring as well. It's just that, it's really hard to do that in the small tight runs I'm doing.


I use these very fittings. The acrylic tube is supposed to go all the way in the fitting until it sits on the shoulder passed the interior o-ring. Both o-rings provide a seal. Seating the tube against that shoulder ensures you have inserted the tube far enough. It gave me an indicator by way of the physical stop when inserting the tube. To me it was comforting as looking down into the fitting to visually check is difficult to say the least.


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I use these very fittings. The acrylic tube is supposed to go all the way in the fitting until it sits on the shoulder passed the interior o-ring. Both o-rings provide a seal. Seating the tube against that shoulder ensures you have inserted the tube far enough. It gave me an indicator by way of the physical stop when inserting the tube. To me it was comforting as looking down into the fitting to visually check is difficult to say the least.


Got it. Having both ends of a tube hit the shoulder of both fittings is hard, when I'm doing all short straight runs. Meaning, that I have to physically remove the block and re insert it while guiding the tube into the fitting at the same time, since there isn't any play to the fitting or the tube in this scenario, using 3-6cm long tube runs.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

4 quick questions!








I'm wondering about buying a new CPU block as I've might have messed up the jetplates and such last time I changed. CPU is getting into the high 70's on stock (4790K). Getting a 6700K system next week, and wondering if I should just change the block as well.

I'm running a D5, EK1080 block, Evo supremacy, XTX360 p/p + XE240. Fans are Eloops at 1500 RPM.

Load temps are max 42'C on GPU and max 80'C on CPU. So I bet that I've mixed the jetplates and internals. I've lost the old stuff, So I'd rather just buy a new block. My bad.









1. Which block is the best? Should I once again go for the Supremacy Evo from EK?

2. If my pump was the cause of my problems, I guess that my GPU temps. would not be that low?

3. Is my cooling bad compared to my WC?

4. Is it worth changing for J1 to J2 on the 115x platform?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more to see http://www.overclock.net/t/1616157/scratch-build-copper-one


Beautiful build! I love the understated aesthetics. Also, what a great case!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Got it. Having both ends of a tube hit the shoulder of both fittings is hard, when I'm doing all short straight runs. Meaning, that I have to physically remove the block and re insert it while guiding the tube into the fitting at the same time, since there isn't any play to the fitting or the tube in this scenario, using 3-6cm long tube runs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Got it. Having both ends of a tube hit the shoulder of both fittings is hard, when I'm doing all short straight runs. Meaning, *that I have to physically remove the block and re insert it while guiding the tube into the fitting at the same time, since there isn't any play to the fitting or the tube in this scenario, using 3-6cm long tube runs*.


That's about the only way to make it work. If you have the space, you can install fitting > tube > lock down > install second fitting (like a 90/45/30, etc.) upside down and then gently spin it to meet the block threads and screw it in. Use a tiny bit of soap on the fitting and block threads to help and prevent cross-threading. Don't tighten the lock ring on that fitting until fully installed.


----------



## beret21

I have been moding the hell out for some time. Not that good looking stuff but its interesting creative particle and most imp of all easy on my pocket


----------



## alltheGHz

Did you 3d print the mount? I'd be worried about the polymer in contact with the PCB start to warp/melt


----------



## beret21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Did you 3d print the mount? I'd be worried about the polymer in contact with the PCB start to warp/melt


I made it with acrylic ( 3 mm ). Made 4 walls then glued them to make room like structure and then added those little triangles to hold down the waterblock.
It doesn't touch the PCB or any thing on the gpu. I kept it at a lil height ( clearance abt 2-3 mm)


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

My monsoon dilemma.. I've made a video of my PC showing the layout. I would like to have some input on what you would do with the res situation. I have a multi top coming from ebay with a down pipe that would fix the bubble problem with the EK but what would really like is to get the monsoon in the video in there. I think it would look much better. How would you go about it? Mount it on a 1/4 inch thick piece of white plexi and then screw into that piece of plexi from the rear of the case. It would really improve the look of the PC as it would cover the transition from 1/2 inch plexi to the original metal case. I made a video of some of the things I have to fix. If it was yours what would you do?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtjDDbY2cKw&feature=youtu.be


----------



## Ceadderman

Thought about using MDF instead? It's cheaper and cam be purchased locally.

~Ceadder


----------



## sli_shroom

i am collecting parts for a nixie clock project and needed 1/4" thick acrylic. actually found it for decent prices off amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K795E78/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i needed black and clear, but there are other colors as well. i was originally looking at 1/2" thick, so if that floats your boat it is on there are well


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> i am collecting parts for a nixie clock project and needed 1/4" thick acrylic. actually found it for decent prices off amazon...
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K795E78/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> i needed black and clear, but there are other colors as well. i was originally looking at 1/2" thick, so if that floats your boat it is on there are well


I don't know if you've ever looked around your local area, or have the desire to, but most of the shops in my area sell their cut offs really cheaply. I get 1/4" plastics for $2.49 a square foot. Clear and black are usually really easy to come by, but for some of the more unusual colors it takes a little pre-planning, luck, or you can become a plastic hoarder like myself.


----------



## Radmanhs

Should I reseat my monoblock? I'm running a 6700k on a maximus VIII Gene with an ek monoblock. I bumped up my voltage to 1.3 volts to do a quick temp test. After about 15 minutes of testing I noticed that my temps were all over the board, they ranged from ~45c to 66c. And non of the cores were really steady around their own temps, they jumped by up to 10 degrees, which I'm not sure if its normal or not. The main point though, 66c seems really hot considering I'm using 2 triple rads with 800-1000rpm fans for only a cpu and 1 gpu.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

I already have the plexi though. I'll post some pics of the tear down and install next week..


----------



## sli_shroom

good point. have gotten a few pieces from a local place. they only sell off scraps once a month though

need to start hoarding it too lol


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> My monsoon dilemma.. I've made a video of my PC showing the layout. I would like to have some input on what you would do with the res situation. I have a multi top coming from ebay with a down pipe that would fix the bubble problem with the EK but what would really like is to get the monsoon in the video in there. I think it would look much better. How would you go about it? Mount it on a 1/4 inch thick piece of white plexi and then screw into that piece of plexi from the rear of the case. It would really improve the look of the PC as it would cover the transition from 1/2 inch plexi to the original metal case. I made a video of some of the things I have to fix. If it was yours what would you do?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtjDDbY2cKw&feature=youtu.be


If mounting it to the back wall is a problem you could try using the new radiator fan mounts. Also, you could use something like this on the monsoon res.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Should I reseat my monoblock? I'm running a 6700k on a maximus VIII Gene with an ek monoblock. I bumped up my voltage to 1.3 volts to do a quick temp test. After about 15 minutes of testing I noticed that my temps were all over the board, they ranged from ~45c to 66c. And non of the cores were really steady around their own temps, they jumped by up to 10 degrees, which I'm not sure if its normal or not. The main point though, 66c seems really hot considering I'm using 2 triple rads with 800-1000rpm fans for only a cpu and 1 gpu.


You're probably limited by the TIM under the IHS. If you want to get lower and not so "all over the place" you may have to delid it and put some CLU under the hood. As it sits though your temps are not unusually high.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> You're probably limited by the TIM under the IHS. If you want to get lower and not so "all over the place" you may have to delid it and put some CLU under the hood. As it sits though your temps are not unusually high.


My thoughts exactly. My 4670k @ 4.0ghz was hitting over 90'c when using a Thermalright Venemous X and after popping off the IHS, removing the black adhesive, carefully shaving the lip on the underside of the IHS so it sits lower and actually contacts the CPU core.. i applied liquid metal and some new adhesive and to my amazement my peak load temps with that air cooler dropped to 60-61'c. Thats roughly 30'c improvement! Better yet, now that im watercooling ive raised clock speeds to 4.4ghz and my CPU hits 50-51'c under full load. When gaming its a bit lower. CPU idle temp is 30'c even though i have clock speed fixed at 4.4ghz.


----------



## Radmanhs

Well, I've already delidded my 3770k which wasn't hard, just scary as hell. Sol I have some extra CLU lying around. Can you use the same vice, wood block and hammer technique?

Also, if you don't have a vice available for a few weeks, how would you hold the CPU?


----------



## emsj86

You could get two small pieces of wood or anything flat and than a c clamp from Home Depot as a cheap alternative for a vice


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Well, I've already delidded my 3770k which wasn't hard, just scary as hell. Sol I have some extra CLU lying around. Can you use the same vice, wood block and hammer technique?
> 
> Also, if you don't have a vice available for a few weeks, how would you hold the CPU?


I dellided my 4770k with just a razor blade.

TCO


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Well, I've already delidded my 3770k which wasn't hard, just scary as hell. Sol I have some extra CLU lying around. Can you use the same vice, wood block and hammer technique?
> 
> Also, if you don't have a vice available for a few weeks, how would you hold the CPU?


Skylake has a thinner pcb, anything involving hammers isn't recommended.

I would look for a guy/shop with a 3D printer and get something like this printed.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Skylake has a thinner pcb, anything involving hammers isn't recommended.
> 
> I would look for a guy/shop with a 3D printer and get something like this printed.


very interesting tool, what is that screwdriver+spatula looking thing used for?


----------



## Radmanhs

looks like you use it to twist the ihs off


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> very interesting tool, what is that screwdriver+spatula looking thing used for?


all the info is in the hyperlink that i put on "this".

anyway, here it is again:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1209396


----------



## ruffhi

As an extra, you can make very small waffles with it.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> all the info is in the hyperlink that i put on "this".
> 
> anyway, here it is again:
> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1209396


Thanks! cool, neat


----------



## Radmanhs

That yellow gunk is a bad sign, isn't it? I've only had this loop for a week. I took my loop apart because I was going to delidded, I didn't see this anywhere else. It's just on the inside of the compression fittings. Or could it just be stained molykote lube


----------



## cmpxchg8b

This does not look like a big deal to me - the waterblock looks clean and this is what matters. Do you see any gunk in the reservoir? Top line along the water level (a.k.a. the bathtub ring) is where it shows the most.


----------



## Radmanhs

I did notice that when I first ran the system, but I guess after a lot of moving for bleeding that bathtub ring went away


----------



## wizardbro

Thanks for the tips on tubing guys,
Here's a couple pics of the glacier build WIP.


Really hating the red accents on the mobo. Hoping for some nice black/white/grey z970 matx, preferably asus rog line. Or x299


----------



## LiquidHaus

heatkiller > all


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Thanks for the tips on tubing guys,
> Here's a couple pics of the glacier build WIP.
> 
> 
> Really hating the red accents on the mobo. Hoping for some nice black/white/grey z970 matx, preferably asus rog line. Or x299


Paint it! I just painted the red on my Maximus formula v11 z97 board for a all black grey build and it was fairly easy. Used tayima acrylic paint with their brush kit. 12 bucks


----------



## Trestles126

Did you use silicone grease? When I first started I used grease to help rigid tubing slide in and noticed it turned yellow
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> That yellow gunk is a bad sign, isn't it? I've only had this loop for a week. I took my loop apart because I was going to delidded, I didn't see this anywhere else. It's just on the inside of the compression fittings. Or could it just be stained molykote lube


----------



## Radmanhs

Ya, the molykote lube I mentioned is silicone grease


----------



## Trestles126

Sorry didn't finish reading ur post just looked at pic willing to bet it's the lube


----------



## Trestles126

Got the pedestal pretty much done. I plan on being able to disconnect it via quick disconnects mounted to the 140mm fan hole on the psu side bottom. I will mount it front below that way after disconnects have been separated I can unbolt the fan plate and lift the top half off. Also gonna try to make the wiring to the A6 as clean and simple as possible that way I can disconnect usb molex and 1-2 fan channel extensions and seperate as well.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnkjGtAHj

https://imageshack.com/i/poUvqJ56j

https://imageshack.com/i/pmNyPgjSj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnvDOPjXj


----------



## noahark

My HexGear R40 build


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noahark*
> 
> My HexGear R40 build


Very clean.


----------



## Dazmode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> There have been odd claims in his videos before, like Koolance using ports on their rads that would only fit their own fittings, for instance off the top of my head but I'm sure there are others.


They indeed produced more narrow stepping on threading for G1/4, which was fixed pronto after my video and swept under the carpet like it never happened.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Took a shot of a 980 and Hyper X, Just wanted to share, Knocking out a 250D Build real quick for a clients son. Link in siggy. Nothing special, just a H50 for cooling.




TCO


----------



## fast_fate

I gave up on a trying to find clean internal run from top rads down to the pedestal.
Dozens of options were considered and 5 were physically tried, but was NOT happy with anything









So...I went external and kinda happy with the result


----------



## eucalyptus

Tried my Aquacomputer air leaktester today









Seems to work fine!







just annoying losing air when disassembling the pump









I only leak tested the tube, not the resevoirs. First it is Alphacool glass tubing. With Chinese Barrow or something fittings - which one and another doesn't fit out of the box because of different dimension, metric and imperial. So then a third brand, a third party O-rings, a slice thicker than the original ones gripping /tightening the tube much better









Just let it be for 3 minutes and nothing happened so. I am pleased so far. If it's this easy to leak test with air. Then it's worth every penny <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 <3


----------



## wizardbro

Night low light phone shot of the new case up and running. Still have to get cables made, using stock + crappy extensions atm.


----------



## alltheGHz

I've always thought inverted ATX builds were cool. Well done


----------



## Ironsmack

Does anyone have any experience using a BP DDC heatsink with a Aqualis DDC top?

Ive seen confirmation using EK heatsink, but im having trouble seeing confirmation using BP with an Aqualis DDC top.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience using a BP DDC heatsink with a Aqualis DDC top?
> 
> Ive seen confirmation using EK heatsink, but im having trouble seeing confirmation using BP with an Aqualis DDC top.


I found a picture like this



If the stock bottom of the DDC screws to the Aqualis, then the Bitspower heatsink should. I give it a 95% success rate.

TCO


----------



## Trestles126

custom res and distribution plate almost done compliments of jim at clockwerks


----------



## emsj86

I want a custom one so bad. I need to find someone I can pay to make one for my build


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I found a picture like this
> 
> 
> 
> If the stock bottom of the DDC screws to the Aqualis, then the Bitspower heatsink should. I give it a 95% success rate.
> 
> TCO


Yah, thats what my setup is currently right now. However, the screws that came with the Aqualis is a bit longer than the stock DDC cover. Just had to get some lock washers to get the cover fit.

Thanks man. I guess ill order my heatsink and we'll see if it fits


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> I've always thought inverted ATX builds were cool. Well done


that one is not really inverted, it's still vertically on the side.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I want a custom one so bad. I need to find someone I can pay to make one for my build


Hit up Jim at clockwerks he was a pleasure to work with great communication


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Yah, thats what my setup is currently right now. However, the screws that came with the Aqualis is a bit longer than the stock DDC cover. Just had to get some lock washers to get the cover fit.
> 
> Thanks man. I guess ill order my heatsink and we'll see if it fits


You could always get the EK Kit that has the feet and screws included.



I have purchased the DDC Bitspower heatsinks, and they do not supply screws.

TCO


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Skylake has a thinner pcb, anything involving hammers isn't recommended.
> 
> I would look for a guy/shop with a 3D printer and get something like this printed.


Waste of filament and time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Here it is printed. It really won't work. Ended up just doing the vice method.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It isn't durable enough. All the legs broke off.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Waste of filament and time.


That's unfortunate, figured it being designed by Aqua Computer It'd be pretty solid. Maybe its supposed to be printed on professional grade 3D printers, but that would kind of defeat the purpose too...


----------



## toolmaker03

ahh, man, and I was really considering getting one of the home version 3D printers.
if they cant handle high grade, or hard plastics, than there is no point to getting one yet.
maybe someday they will develop a home version 3D printer that can, so I will keep waiting for that day.
thanks for the insight.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That's unfortunate, figured it being designed by Aqua Computer It'd be pretty solid. Maybe its supposed to be printed on professional grade 3D printers, but that would kind of defeat the purpose too...


It would need to be printed in metal.









There is no way those legs will hold the force required. They should be like 4-5x the size.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> ahh, man, and I was really considering getting one of the home version 3D printers.
> if they cant handle high grade, or hard plastics, than there is no point to getting one yet.
> maybe someday they will develop a home version 3D printer that can, so I will keep waiting for that day.
> thanks for the insight.


They can. Reprap open source printers can generally print w/ almost all standard filaments.


----------



## DarthBaggins

or you could print it in ABS/PETG and it should be fine, I can see PLA being too brittle


----------



## methadon36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It would need to be printed in metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no way those legs will hold the force required. They should be like 4-5x the size.
> They can. Reprap open source printers can generally print w/ almost all standard filaments.


I had a local guy in NY print me a delid tool and it worked fine and can use it again since its solid. He builds the 3d printers in house so he knows what he is doing. So if anyone wants His contact info for a delid tool I will be happy to post it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *methadon36*
> 
> I had a local guy in NY print me a delid tool and it worked fine and can use it again since its solid. He builds the 3d printers in house so he knows what he is doing. So if anyone wants His contact info for a delid tool I will be happy to post it.


The same one that was posted? There were others who tried using the same one in the Skylake delid thread w/ the same outcome as me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> or you could print it in ABS/PETG and it should be fine, I can see PLA being too brittle


ABS isn't stronger. ABS is stronger only when it comes to impact strength, like throwing it at the wall. PLA is significantly stronger than ABS in compression, flexural, and tensile strength.


----------



## methadon36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The same one that was posted? There were others who tried using the same one in the Skylake delid thread w/ the same outcome as me.





This is the tool I had printed, it worked flawless and can be reused


----------



## aaronpiatt

I am running 2 240's with an EK block and the 6700k at 4.6 and 1.3 volts. and my temps jump as well my 2nd cor was hitting 72 degrees Celsius. I averaged around 49 degrees.


----------



## aaronpiatt

I am running 2 240's with an EK block and the 6700k at 4.6 and 1.3 volts. and my temps jump as well my 2nd cor was hitting 72 degrees Celsius. I averaged around 49 degrees


----------



## Sem

Hey guys looking for some opinions on some changes I am thinking of making to my loop

been running Nickel EK fittings and black Primochill LRT for a couple of years now and thinking of changing it up a bit

Mainly thinking of moving from Nickel to Matt Black Barrow for the fittings

I've already done a test fit by replacing one part just to see how it looks before I buy the rest

what do you think? does looks better black or nickel


----------



## TheCautiousOne

250d build finished. Forgot how easy building a computer was without a custom loop.





TCO


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Hey guys looking for some opinions on some changes I am thinking of making to my loop
> 
> been running Nickel EK fittings and black Primochill LRT for a couple of years now and thinking of changing it up a bit
> 
> Mainly thinking of moving from Nickel to Matt Black Barrow for the fittings
> 
> I've already done a test fit by replacing one part just to see how it looks before I buy the rest
> 
> what do you think? does looks better black or nickel


Definitely black.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Hey guys looking for some opinions on some changes I am thinking of making to my loop
> 
> been running Nickel EK fittings and black Primochill LRT for a couple of years now and thinking of changing it up a bit
> 
> Mainly thinking of moving from Nickel to Matt Black Barrow for the fittings
> 
> I've already done a test fit by replacing one part just to see how it looks before I buy the rest
> 
> what do you think? does looks better black or nickel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely black.
Click to expand...

Agreed!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

My R5 ED10 block.......



is different from yours......


----------



## Blze001

So, because the loop I'm planning is going to take place inside a tiny case, would I see a horrible performance impact if I have my loop set up like so:

Pump/Res combo -> top rad -> cpu -> gpu -> bottom rad? The top rad is the weaker of the two, it's not going to be ideally set up. The bottom rad, however, will have the proper placement and fans for coldest air.

I'm not aiming for dat max overclock, just maintaining my current 4.0GHz clock on my i5-4670k and getting a nice little OC out of my 1070 (FE, the blower sounds like a fighter jet when I run any kind of OC).


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> So, because the loop I'm planning is going to take place inside a tiny case, would I see a horrible performance impact if I have my loop set up like so:
> 
> Pump/Res combo -> top rad -> cpu -> gpu -> bottom rad? The top rad is the weaker of the two, it's not going to be ideally set up. The bottom rad, however, will have the proper placement and fans for coldest air.
> 
> I'm not aiming for dat max overclock, just maintaining my current 4.0GHz clock on my i5-4670k and getting a nice little OC out of my 1070 (FE, the blower sounds like a fighter jet when I run any kind of OC).


Placement of rad doesn't really change much part to part. Water doesn't cool down enough after each rad rather the entire loop gradually changes temp.

Others can correct me if I'm wrong


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> So, because the loop I'm planning is going to take place inside a tiny case, would I see a horrible performance impact if I have my loop set up like so:
> 
> Pump/Res combo -> top rad -> cpu -> gpu -> bottom rad? The top rad is the weaker of the two, it's not going to be ideally set up. The bottom rad, however, will have the proper placement and fans for coldest air.
> 
> I'm not aiming for dat max overclock, just maintaining my current 4.0GHz clock on my i5-4670k and getting a nice little OC out of my 1070 (FE, the blower sounds like a fighter jet when I run any kind of OC).


You should be fine with that setup. I theory your water temp should balance out. I would be less worried about loop order over making sure you have a good air setup to the rads.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> You should be fine with that setup. I theory your water temp should balance out. I would be less worried about loop order over making sure you have a good air setup to the rads.


It's not a theory, it's fact. Loop order doesn't matter at all, it will all balance out. If you placed temp probes at multiple locations throughout, you'd only see 1-2 degrees variant, if that. The most important thing as you say is the air setup itself.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> So, because the loop I'm planning is going to take place inside a tiny case, would I see a horrible performance impact if I have my loop set up like so:
> 
> Pump/Res combo -> top rad -> cpu -> gpu -> bottom rad? The top rad is the weaker of the two, it's not going to be ideally set up. The bottom rad, however, will have the proper placement and fans for coldest air.
> 
> I'm not aiming for dat max overclock, just maintaining my current 4.0GHz clock on my i5-4670k and getting a nice little OC out of my 1070 (FE, the blower sounds like a fighter jet when I run any kind of OC).


Are the radiators going to be cooled by air outside of the case? Are they going to be oriented in push, taking the coldest air outside of the case, air then pushed through the rad, then exhausted out of the back of the case?

If so, then there should be no problem.

TCO


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> You should be fine with that setup. I theory your water temp should balance out. I would be less worried about loop order over making sure you have a good air setup to the rads.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a theory, it's fact. Loop order doesn't matter at all, it will all balance out. If you placed temp probes at multiple locations throughout, you'd only see 1-2 degrees variant, if that. The most important thing as you say is the air setup itself.
Click to expand...

I think that's one of the hardest concept to understand to people new to water-cooling though.

You have to remember that the water flowing in the system has it's own temperature. Then your CPU and GPU block both will have their own temperature, and your RAD's will have a "negative temperature." At least that's how I try to explain the basics of a water loop.

You have:

- Hot components: these dump heat in to the coolant mixture

- Cold components: these extract heat from the coolant mixture

- Neutral components: these might just add additional restriction to the loop and negligible heat or cold

- Coolant Mixture: the liquid medium flowing through all components

The temperature of the coolant is going to be a combination of the heat added by hot components minus the heat taken away from the cold components and the coolant temperature can't be colder than your ambient temperatures unless you are actually chilling the coolant mixture at some point.

Normally it makes more sense once I show them 2 scenarios on my computer, one with just Prime 95 running, then with just FurMark running and it's easier to see that the ambient temperature and the coolant temperature stay near the same, but the CPU and GPU temperatures are always higher than the coolant temperature, and the CPU and GPU temps can vary by up to 20 C if one is under full load and the other is idle.

It's a very crude and basic way to explain it, but sometimes that's all people need. They don't need to know all the advanced terminology, just how it works in general.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My R5 ED10 block.......
> 
> 
> 
> is different from yours......


No surprise there.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My R5 ED10 block.......
> 
> 
> 
> is different from yours......


Damn right,
it is different than ours,
can you teach us,
but not charge us?

I'll see myself out...


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My R5 ED10 block.......


What Spray paint did you use on that? I'm planning on painting mine. I haven't gotten around to it due to Snow outside.


----------



## Trestles126

Getting there so stoked with Jims work can't wait to have in hand!


----------



## orbitalwalsh




----------



## eucalyptus

In case anyone is interested to see ALL the Mayhems dyes









All unedited high quality pictures!
http://imgur.com/a/BTgeB

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2923699/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2923700/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2923701/


----------



## JAM3S121

I'm looking for some pics of how a case like a fractal design s, corsair 350d, 450d, etc would look with just one front mounted radiator? I'm planning to grab a 360 rad but I'm not sure the tubing will look pleasing having a tube go from the cpu block all the way to the front of the case.

Thanks guys


----------



## JAM3S121

delete


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I'm looking for some pics of how a case like a fractal design s, corsair 350d, 450d, etc would look with just one front mounted radiator? I'm planning to grab a 360 rad but I'm not sure the tubing will look pleasing having a tube go from the cpu block all the way to the front of the case. Thanks guys


I know I have one at the top as well but it doesn't make much difference.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*


Forgot how thin AIO Radiators are. Don't think I could go back to thin radiators after using 60mm radiators.


----------



## Drizztly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> 
> 
> This is a very nice idea for the tube behind the mobo tray. Thanks a lot for sharing!
> 
> Really like your build btw!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Forgot how thin AIO Radiators are. Don't think I could go back to thin radiators after using 60mm radiators.


Length>girth


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Are the radiators going to be cooled by air outside of the case? Are they going to be oriented in push, taking the coldest air outside of the case, air then pushed through the rad, then exhausted out of the back of the case?
> 
> If so, then there should be no problem.
> 
> TCO


Basically. One 240mm rad at the bottom getting cold air pushed through it, another 240mm rad at the top getting the case air pushed through it. Top one will have slightly less CFM than the bottom fans to maintain positive pressure in the case (my apartment complex is dusty







)

Both rads are going to be EKWB's slim series, but at least the bottom one will be properly matched with Vardar fans. The top one is gonna have to get thinner ones for fitment reasons.


----------



## llll

Thought I'd share my current project.


----------



## LiquidHaus

it's a bummer that the hard drive cage cover up a lot of that goodness I see. still super clean.


----------



## atomicus

You can remove that hard drive plate of course (if not in use), and I saw someone (on this forum I'm sure) had an existing side panel cut and new window added for the Evolv MATX. They got Parvum to do it for them, so they should still have that template on file and would be able to re-create. Still won't be cheap, but it would REALLY show off that super clean build well.


----------



## Dortheleus

Very well done.


----------



## llll

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> it's a bummer that the hard drive cage cover up a lot of that goodness I see. still super clean.


It's actually just a screw-on panel. I have it sitting there because it's quite literally the only place I could find to mount a res. It's actually a pretty clever feature that lets you mount SSDs/pumps/reservoirs depending on the space you have available.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> You can remove that hard drive plate of course (if not in use), and I saw someone (on this forum I'm sure) had an existing side panel cut and new window added for the Evolv MATX. They got Parvum to do it for them, so they should still have that template on file and would be able to re-create. Still won't be cheap, but it would REALLY show off that super clean build well.


The full size version of the Evolv is available with a tempered glass side panel. Phanteks told me that I'd have to wait for December, which I wasn't keen to do as I started this one back in late August (it's gone through many iterations since then). I can only hope I'll be able to purchase a glass side panel when it's available.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> it's a bummer that the hard drive cage cover up a lot of that goodness I see. still super clean.


Agreed, it's a very nice build, too bad all the good stuff are hidden behind the HDD panel


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llll*
> 
> Thought I'd share my current project.]


Very nice build. IDK how, but those images are crashing the site on Chrome on Android. Did they somehow get uploaded at full res?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llll*
> 
> The full size version of the Evolv is available with a tempered glass side panel. Phanteks told me that I'd have to wait for December, which I wasn't keen to do as I started this one back in late August (it's gone through many iterations since then). I can only hope I'll be able to purchase a glass side panel when it's available.


The ATX version you mean? That's been available for a while. They do have an MATX glass version coming apparently, but no idea when that will be available. Next year I heard. I don't know if you can retrofit though, as if it's like the Evolv ATX it needs the screw holes in the side so that the panel can screw in at each corner. So it would likely necessitate a whole new case, just as with the Evolv ATX and also the Enthoo Pro M, which comes with a glass panel now. Unless you've heard differently?


----------



## DarthBaggins

mATX version would definitely be nice, considering I just got a EVGA X99 Micro2 mobo.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> mATX version would definitely be nice, considering I just got a EVGA X99 Micro2 mobo.


.

Sent you a PM.

TCO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llll*
> 
> Thought I'd share my current project.


Nice of you to share








BUT
I gave up loading the page because of your 17 MB photos.
We don't all have lightning speed connections, so please be gentle on us and think about restricting file sizes









Wind Chimes ??
or something else


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Nice of you to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT
> I gave up loading the page because of your 17 MB photos.
> We don't all have lightning speed connections, so please be gentle on us and think about restricting file sizes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wind Chimes ??
> or something else


Buncha these


----------



## derickwm

I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!









Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry


Wow...


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry


That is super sleek! The power.

Even if you quit on your own account, I bet EK would still send you biweekly checks on the whim that you might return.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry


The MKII is such a sexy case. Charles and crew outdid themselves on that project. Super lovely, and congrats on the new project for yourself! Maybe we'll be talking more in the future


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a video! This is also the launch of my own brand, please sub/like etc. I'm not above whoring myself out to OCN'ers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Disclosure: Still work for EK, don't you worry


Looking good! Just out of curiousity, why the "Sweclockers.com" in the bottom of the wallpaper? The first site/forum I joined back in the days...


----------



## D13mass

Hi my comrades!









Little update from me, build 3.0



Radiator is external Mo-Ra3 9*140


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Hi my comrades!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little update from me, build 3.0
> 
> http[IMG ALT=""]http Radiator is external Mo-Ra3 9*140[/QUOTE]
> 
> How come for the lighting, all green instead of white to see internals?
> 
> TCO


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How come for the lighting, all green instead of white to see internals?


My pc places on the floor in 1 meter from my desk and usually I don`t see pc, but lighting it`s something looks like nightlight







and why green because it`s more friendly for eyes.
I hope I understood correctly your question.


----------



## eucalyptus

Where is IT diva?

I saw build of him (her?) yesterday somewhere with like 6 reservoirs, that beast was just totally INSANE. Need to see more of it.


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone know if I can run my radiators under the sink to get rid of the dust that has been built up on the fins?


----------



## JustinThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can run my radiators under the sink to get rid of the dust that has been built up on the fins?


If you aree taalking about removing them from the system and cleaning them out yes, thats no problem. Last system I built from used parts I sprayed the radiators down with windex general purpose cleaner and left them sit for a few minutes then took the spray nozzle to them and it cleaned them squeaky clean. What it didnt clean was the green funk from the inside. I tried vinegar solution, no luck. Hydrogen peroxide, no luck. Then although Id always thought it was BS I popped open a can of coke and poured it in and left it over night. It immediately commenced to bubbling and goop boiling out of the top. Next morning I poured out the contents and the nastiness that came out was unreal!. Flushed the crap out of it with hot water and looked inside.........shiny copper! I put it in a loop the same day, filled with distilled water and left it run overnight (just the pump while doing leak test too) and drained it and refilled the next day.


----------



## eucalyptus

Hahaha I don't know if I should cry or laugh
















B Neg. called Dazmode for Mr Bean of water cooling.

Then I must be Lloyd Christmas or maybe Harry Dune from Dumb and Dumber of water cooling...

Pumped my loop with air yesterday. I noticed it was leaking slowly. Went out to have a look 12 hours later and it was stuck on 0.11 bar.

So I filled it with air again, to max. Stood and looked at it for 5 minutes, nothing happened at all. LOL.

In order:



http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2926927/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2926928/

Going to build my own leak tester. Gonna order some parts from Ebay, found a digital pressure gauge with G 1/4 BSP. Although, some trouble to find a schrader valve... anyone?


----------



## USMC Modder




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hahaha I don't know if I should cry or laugh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *B Neg. called Dazmode for Mr Bean of water cooling.
> 
> Then I must be Lloyd Christmas or maybe Harry Dune from Dumb and Dumber of water cooling...*
> 
> Pumped my loop with air yesterday. I noticed it was leaking slowly. Went out to have a look 12 hours later and it was stuck on 0.11 bar.
> 
> So I filled it with air again, to max. Stood and looked at it for 5 minutes, nothing happened at all. LOL.
> 
> In order:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2926927/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2926928/
> *
> 
> 
> 
> Going to build my own leak tester. Gonna order some parts from Ebay, found a digital pressure gauge with G 1/4 BSP. Although, some trouble to find a schrader valve... anyone?


Daz is a funny guy,I like him but he does have some strange ways.....

Those testers seem to be a bit crap,I hear a lot of complaints that they are leaky,best off just making your own tbh.

You also need to blow it up to 8 psi,not 2......


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hahaha I don't know if I should cry or laugh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *B Neg. called Dazmode for Mr Bean of water cooling.
> 
> Then I must be Lloyd Christmas or maybe Harry Dune from Dumb and Dumber of water cooling...*
> 
> Pumped my loop with air yesterday. I noticed it was leaking slowly. Went out to have a look 12 hours later and it was stuck on 0.11 bar.
> 
> So I filled it with air again, to max. Stood and looked at it for 5 minutes, nothing happened at all. LOL.
> 
> Going to build my own leak tester. Gonna order some parts from Ebay, found a digital pressure gauge with G 1/4 BSP. Although, some trouble to find a schrader valve... anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> Daz is a funny guy,I like him but he does have some strange ways.....
> 
> Those testers seem to be a bit crap,I hear a lot of complaints that they are leaky,best off just making your own tbh.
> 
> You also need to blow it up to 8 psi,not 2......
Click to expand...

It looks like he actually filled it up to 11 psi / 0.75 bar at 9:00 PM. Then the following morning and it was down to 2 psi / 0.11 bar. Then he tried the test again all the way up to 11 psi / 0.75 bar and it held after 5 minute.

So he was going way passed the recommended 7 psi / 0.5 bar that I've seen most people using this method at, but the point still remains that he did lose some of that pressure over the 12 hour period which could indicate a leak somewhere.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Anyone else just get a teaser email from EK? wonder what the "big bang" is


----------



## Leonko

can you post it how it looks like ?


----------



## paskowitz

Quick and dirty photo. I need to find a better place to take pictures.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> Anyone else just get a teaser email from EK? wonder what the "big bang" is


Yeah, I clicked on it and it just gave a bunch of info about 140/280 predators like it was new news
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick and dirty photo. I need to find a better place to take pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That whole thing looks quick and dirty (in a good way) i like it man!
+rep for the spare gear
(edit: how're temps with that swiftech pump/is that the only one?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Yeah, I clicked on it and it just gave a bunch of info about 140/280 predators like it was new news


I sure hope not! I click on it to but I assumed it was just redirecting me to an advertisement.

The picture is a shadow of a water block but I have a hard time believing they are going to make a big deal out of a water block when they have pages on pages of water blocks... what can be so amazing to make a big deal out of a "new" block


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Yeah, I clicked on it and it just gave a bunch of info about 140/280 predators like it was new news
> That whole thing looks quick and dirty (in a good way) i like it man!
> +rep for the spare gear
> (edit: how're temps with that swiftech pump/is that the only one?


Thanks. I did the best I could with soft tubing. One thing that is really hard, that I appreciate now more than ever, is color coordination. It is really really hard to find parts, paints, vinyls etc, with matching or even approximate colors. I also tarnished most of my EK fittings when I first got them (year ago) by cleaning them with alcohol. Now I just call it an industrial look







.

Appreciate the rep. It is a differential gear from a Porsche 917 (see avatar) no less!

I don't have a flow meter, but I keep my pump around 1800rpm at idle and 2-2.5K under load and that seems to do just fine. Temps are terrific (IMO). However, that has less to do with the pump and more to do with the fact I delided, am using a HK IV Pro, and have CLU as my TIM on every surface (+fujipoly extreme for pads). At around 4.8Ghz/1.32v for the CPU and 1535/8000Mhz 1.23v on the GPU I am usually around 50-60c on the CPU, 40-50c on the GPU. Fans go from ~600rpm to 1500rpm between 30-40c water temp. Water temp is usually +10-12c ambient at idle and +15-17c at load (depends on OC).


----------



## eucalyptus

Hahaha this is driving me crazy









I believe first loop is okay. But my second loop just continued to leak air.

Changed double O-rings (triple with outside) on ALL fittings 2-3 times. Been going on for 5 hours now.

Just kept leaking air, no matter what. Although, the dish soap with Qtips, amazing, I am really impressed what kind of Einsteins you can find on this forum.

Finally, I noticed when I touched and squeezed the mid section air was breezing quite good. Turns out one of these bad boys were broken. It plopped out in 2 pieces when I unscrewed it.

Underneath all this it is a ton of soft tubing, but I believe in the force of compression fittings and soft tubing.

A anyway, it seems to work now







just gonna keep building and finish the loop. I had planned for acrylic in the front, but now I am gonna do soft tubing instead. Can't live with more of this nonsense.

Over and out.

C'mon bare in mind guys, I am 19. I shouldn't even do this. It's just because there was money to spend I am standing here, wish I never did.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great build!







I really like the etching on the window and what you did to the front panel.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> I sure hope not! I click on it to but I assumed it was just redirecting me to an advertisement.
> 
> The picture is a shadow of a water block but I have a hard time believing they are going to make a big deal out of a water block when they have pages on pages of water blocks... what can be so amazing to make a big deal out of a "new" block


I could understand if its a new block, kinda just looks like an EVO/MX with the mounting hardware in the holes... We'll see soon I guess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Thanks. I did the best I could with soft tubing. One thing that is really hard, that I appreciate now more than ever, is color coordination. It is really really hard to find parts, paints, vinyls etc, with matching or even approximate colors. I also tarnished most of my EK fittings when I first got them (year ago) by cleaning them with alcohol. Now I just call it an industrial look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Appreciate the rep. It is a differential gear from a Porsche 917 (see avatar) no less!
> 
> I don't have a flow meter, but I keep my pump around 1800rpm at idle and 2-2.5K under load and that seems to do just fine. Temps are terrific (IMO). However, that has less to do with the pump and more to do with the fact I delided, am using a HK IV Pro, and have CLU as my TIM on every surface (+fujipoly extreme for pads). At around 4.8Ghz/1.32v for the CPU and 1535/8000Mhz 1.23v on the GPU I am usually around 50-60c on the CPU 40-450c on the GPU. Fans go from ~600rpm to 1500rpm between 30-40c water temp. Water temp is usually +10-12c ambient at idle and +15-17c at load (depends on OC).


nice, those are some perfectly good temps! I assume that's a 4790k? very similar temps to mine and its running naked on a huge loop! Thanks for sharing man!


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Just for fun - something a little different:


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I could understand if its a new block, kinda just looks like an EVO/MX with the mounting hardware in the holes... We'll see soon I guess
> nice, those are some perfectly good temps! I assume that's a 4790k? very similar temps to mine and its running naked on a huge loop! Thanks for sharing man!


4790K. I also have done some subtle airflow mods on my Evolv to let the fans work a little easier. The top and front panels are moved 1-2cm away from their stock positions. The rear fan is also set to intake. Doing all of this at once, vs a stock config, results in a whopping 4c water temp reduction (changing no hardware). Finally there is a fan just in front of the front rad pulling warm air from the HDD area below.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick and dirty photo. I need to find a better place to take pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


is that sleeving on your tubes?

that look awesome.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> is that sleeving on your tubes?
> 
> that look awesome.


Yes sir! Pretty sure it's old Primochill Cobra Max Carbon Fiber sleeving.


----------



## kariverson

Whoa that does look awesome. Kinda like chainmail.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> Whoa that does look awesome. Kinda like chainmail.


I dub thee Sir Overclocksalot.


----------



## fast_fate

Re-Ran some fan wiring on top cooler pack


----------



## LiquidHaus

forever a fan of e-loop builds, pun intended!


----------



## VSG

Nice, clean wiring there f_f


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Great build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the etching on the window and what you did to the front panel.


Thanks, that was all Parvum running with my design. They did an amazing job.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> forever a fan of e-loop builds, pun intended!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nice, clean wiring there f_f


Cheers V









Up the middle of underneith...



And here's the top side

You can all have a giggle at my expense on this one...
I was so focused on the wiring that.. well I'm sure you can see what I failed to notice until taking the pictures


----------



## wizardbro

My brand new block in my brand new loop i showing markings/tarnish from the 2nd day of the loop running.


Loop was prepared and assembled perfectly, I did everything right. Perfect distilled to x1 mix, no mixed metals, no tap water used to flush loop, flushed rads properly etc.

@19DELTASNAFU is suggesting the problem is electrolysis, so I tested my water for stray voltage.
Plugged one lead on the multimeter in to a molex ground pin and the 2nd into the fillport, multimeter set to DCV and it's showing 0.9v in my water.
Sounds very high, but I don't know if this test is scientific.
Can others test their water and see what results they get?

Edit: It wasn't nickel flaking or anything, the brown stuff was exclusive to the gpu block and rubbed right off with tissue.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Need some help here guys.
> 
> My brand new block in my brand new loop i showing markings/tarnish from the 2nd day of the loop running.
> Loop was prepared and assembled perfectly, I did everything right. Perfect distilled to x1 mix, no mixed metals, no tap water used to flush loop, flushed rads properly etc.
> 
> @19DELTASNAFU is suggesting the problem is electrolysis, so I tested my water for stray voltage.
> Plugged one lead on the multimeter in to a molex ground pin and the 2nd into the fillport, multimeter set to DCV and it's showing 0.9v in my water.
> Sounds very high, but I don't know if this test is scientific.
> Can others test their water and see what results they get?


I've no idea either but I can bring my multi-meter home with me tomorrow after work and see what I come up with


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> You can all have a giggle at my expense on this one...


yeah ... you failed to line up the fan stickers.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



No comment about the fan without the sticker


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> yeah ... you failed to line up the fan stickers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> No comment about the fan without the sticker


yeah well umm - NOPE, no excuses on that one.

Funny you should mention stickers though.
I've yet to decide whether to put on white or black








I'm leaning towards black though


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


incredible build


----------



## Ceadderman

Exzellent werk fate.









What connectors are those tween your fan banks?









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Exzellent werk fate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What connectors are those tween your fan banks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Cheers Mate









XT60 connectors


----------



## JustinThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Cheers Mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XT60 connectors


I use these for the battery connections on my RC cars!


----------



## JustinThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Need some help here guys.
> 
> My brand new block in my brand new loop i showing markings/tarnish from the 2nd day of the loop running.
> 
> 
> Loop was prepared and assembled perfectly, I did everything right. Perfect distilled to x1 mix, no mixed metals, no tap water used to flush loop, flushed rads properly etc.
> 
> @19DELTASNAFU is suggesting the problem is electrolysis, so I tested my water for stray voltage.
> Plugged one lead on the multimeter in to a molex ground pin and the 2nd into the fillport, multimeter set to DCV and it's showing 0.9v in my water.
> Sounds very high, but I don't know if this test is scientific.
> Can others test their water and see what results they get?


Try the measurement to the AC ground prong on an outlet instead of the PSU. Problem may be in the PSU as so many of them use a floating ground point. Also compare the PSU ground to actual ground.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Need some help here guys.
> 
> My brand new block in my brand new loop i showing markings/tarnish from the 2nd day of the loop running.
> 
> 
> Loop was prepared and assembled perfectly, I did everything right. Perfect distilled to x1 mix, no mixed metals, no tap water used to flush loop, flushed rads properly etc.
> 
> @19DELTASNAFU is suggesting the problem is electrolysis, so I tested my water for stray voltage.
> Plugged one lead on the multimeter in to a molex ground pin and the 2nd into the fillport, multimeter set to DCV and it's showing 0.9v in my water.
> Sounds very high, but I don't know if this test is scientific.
> Can others test their water and see what results they get?


This has happened to my Z97 motherboard block, and I'm not happy at all because I sold it to a friend, I originally cleaned the block up etc and it was fine, he brought it to me after a few months of usage and the block is a wreck! Made me look bad and I'm not happy, looks like EK's plating issues are back.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> This has happened to my Z97 motherboard block, and I'm not happy at all because I sold it to a friend, I originally cleaned the block up etc and it was fine, he brought it to me after a few months of usage and the block is a wreck! Made me look bad and I'm not happy, looks like EK's plating issues are back.


A bit of a snap statement?

You ran it no problem for a period of time then someone else uses it in their loop and it goes crappy? Perhaps the new loop is to blame? Or your cleaning regimen? Did they follow an anti biocide/anti corro procedure?

As for the other block,how were the rads cleaned? Also,that 'tarnishing' is brown algae,not corrosion.....clean it and use a proper biocide/anti corro procedure.


----------



## looniam

probably because i am new to water; i've the feeling to say i think i'm sticking to copper blocks after seeing a few silver plating issues on a couple of threads lately.

or it could be not only ignorance but copper/burnt orange are my favorite colors too. (that would be colours for are friends across the pond)


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm not happy at all.


You never seem happy, Benji.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> probably because i am new to water; i've the feeling to say i think i'm sticking to copper blocks after seeing a few silver plating issues on a couple of threads lately.
> 
> or it could be not only ignorance but copper/burnt orange are my favorite colors too. (that would be colours for are friends across the pond)


BNeg is right. Its an algae issue. Nickle is not to blame and its not a plating issue at all.

Your loop doesnt have the right biocides and anti corrosive product in it. Were you using a premix? Did you make your own mixture? How did you prep your system prior to filling the loop?


----------



## qbical

My system is getting a little aged now, but I can still play anything most maxed out at 1200p so I am happy. I was planning on doing more modding to the case, but babies cut that one short. I might do a new build in the coming months and really hope I can spend some more time on the enclosure.
http://68.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_l5cguikiip1qcrzkko1_500.gif


----------



## alltheGHz

Am I the only one seeing a white face on the front of the case?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Am I the only one seeing a white face on the front of the case?


LOL







no, you are not seeing things

it's one of the Xmas Ghosts


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick and dirty photo. I need to find a better place to take pictures.


Sleeved soft tubing FTW. Done the right way too.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Sleeved soft tubing FTW. Done the right way too.


Directly inspired by your Big Lian Li Build no less! I saw that and was like... ok...







... yep... that is what I am doing.

It really is a great aesthetic upgrade.
- Costs next to nothing.
- Stiffens up soft tubing giving it a more uniform, hardline-esk, look.
- Makes hardline look even better
- Can be matched to sleeving or really anything else.
- Reflects light nicely

Outside of needing to buy fittings with a slightly larger OD or smaller ID than the tubing used (w/ soft tubing), it is pretty easy to install

In case anyone forgot...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Exzellent werk fate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What connectors are those tween your fan banks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers Mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XT60 connectors
Click to expand...

You run them in Serial or Parallel? I'm thinking Serial...









~Ceadder


----------



## Deeptek

Is the EK DDC 3.2 pump compatible with the Bitspower DDC Heatsync and Bitspower Kit?

I am looking to make a Bitspower DDC pump config but i dont have a Molex cord for this SF600 powersupply and was needing to plug a PWM in to give the pump power. The Bitspower DDC Heatsync is recommended with the MCP355 but the 355 only has molex for power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Is the EK DDC 3.2 pump compatible with the Bitspower DDC Heatsync and Bitspower Kit?
> 
> I am looking to make a Bitspower DDC pump config but i dont have a Molex cord for this SF600 powersupply and was needing to plug a PWM in to give the pump power. The Bitspower DDC Heatsync is recommended with the MCP355 but the 355 only has molex for power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Yes, they're compatible.

Did you lose your SF600's molex cable? Its supposed to come with one.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Yes, they're compatible.
> 
> Did you lose your SF600's molex cable? Its supposed to come with one.


Great!!

No.. I bought it second hand off Hardware Swap for about half the price of it new. Only caveat was it was missing a Molex connector and the secondary PCI-E cable.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Great!!
> 
> No.. I bought it second hand off Hardware Swap for about half the price of it new. Only caveat was it was missing a Molex connector and the secondary PCI-E cable.


Maybe try contacting corsair? They might be able to send you one for a small fee. If not you could always replace the molex connector on your pump with a SATA-power connector, and you might aswell sleeve your pump cables while you're at it.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Maybe try contacting corsair? They might be able to send you one for a small fee. If not you could always replace the molex connector on your pump with a SATA-power connector, and you might aswell sleeve your pump cables while you're at it.


I can do a lot when it comes to building and modded but sleeving is something I have never taken the time to do. Maybe I will do so this winter.

I can power the pump just by the PWM, yea?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You run them in Serial or Parallel? I'm thinking Serial...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Parallel









4 extensions from Splitter
Then 3 lines from each of the connectors up top to the fans.

I originally had them wired up in series.


Spoiler: old harness







Just got the extension in place now, and plonked Aquaero in for a little look see on how things are shaping up in the monitor / control department.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmmm...









I would think that serial would be more beneficial in your situation with two pair of P/P per channel. Maybe I'm underthinking it.









although Parallel is good.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

So I'm looking for some steel braiding, OR, steel braided tubing, to use in my loop for some aesthetic boosting. I currently have 10/16mm compression fittings.

I originally found some 16mm Steel braid, and while it fit very very nicely on my tubing, it was just too tight of a fit to actually tighten down on the EK-ACF compression fittings I have. I've found these two links I might give a shot, but, was wondering if anyone else had any experience with this and could chime in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KPVLQA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=CFEZOV4G75KO&coliid=I1ABMXIBIVSYFF

https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-29406-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0006301LO/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1482270058&sr=8-14&keywords=braided+fuel+line


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hmmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would think that serial would be more beneficial in your situation with two pair of P/P per channel. Maybe I'm underthinking it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although Parallel is good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My way of thinking is that Parallel is always better to deliver maximum power to every device.
Although in this reasonable low power draw circuit ~2.0 Amps (12 x 12 Volt fans running 2.0 Watts each) the difference may not have been too bad.

Maybe I think about it wrong, but I always come back to thinking about an LED strip which are all powered in series.
The start of the strip is always the brightest, but the longer the strip, the weaker the light from the LED's at the end.
I assume this is voltage drop getting worse the longer the chain and more devices in the chain.
Maybe wrong train of thought, but that is my reasoning


----------



## Gabrielzm

10% OFF ALL ORDERS: "XMAS16-10"

PPC codes between Dec 21th and 24th.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 10% OFF ALL ORDERS: "XMAS16-10"
> 
> PPC codes between Dec 21th and 24th.


I wasn't planning on buying myself anything for Christmas. Now I just have to. lol


----------



## qbical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Am I the only one seeing a white face on the front of the case?


Was a piece I thermoformed forever ago. Had another smiling face i was going to build into the side panel, but I lost it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no, you are not seeing things
> 
> it's one of the Xmas Ghosts


Which one is the question; past, present or future?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A bit of a snap statement?
> 
> You ran it no problem for a period of time then someone else uses it in their loop and it goes crappy? Perhaps the new loop is to blame? Or your cleaning regimen? Did they follow an anti biocide/anti corro procedure?
> 
> As for the other block,how were the rads cleaned? Also,that 'tarnishing' is brown algae,not corrosion.....clean it and use a proper biocide/anti corro procedure.


I cleaned the block and the rads etc, the issue has come back twice as bad, used biocide too to rule out algae, my other blocks never changed, and his cpu block looks perfect. it's just the z97 VRM block that used to be nickel plated.


----------



## Trestles126

I've used ekwb nickel/plex, copper/plea and full nickel blocks including ram, CPU and gpu and never once had any growth or build up or issues other than slight oxidization. This is in so cal where weather is 75 average year around. Used ek blood red premix ast first and moved to distilled with mayhems pastel later


----------



## SteezyTN

AQUITY is finished, and I couldn't be any happier!


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> AQUITY is finished, and I couldn't be any happier!


Nice. How do you fill those reservoirs though?


----------



## emsj86

LMAO he said he was finished


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Nice. How do you fill those reservoirs though?


I just remove the fans, and I purchased a squeeze bottle.


----------



## DocShay

Took 3 months to finally build but here she is! First time w/cing - was a great learning experience!


----------



## Andrew LB

So up until now the only temps ive been able to monitor are the ones reported by software. I just remembered i've got a pretty accurate thermo-couple for my Uni-T UT-60 digital multimeter. The ambient temperature it measured in the room was 24.3'c (this room tends to be the warmest room in the house due to the computer being a space heater). With the probe inserted into the top of the reservoir while the PC was idle, it measured a temperature of 28.7'c. I then ran the Valley benchmark 3x to warm things up a bit and the highest the coolant temperature showed was 32.8'c. The GPU itself idles at 28'c and hit a max of 38'c running valley. CPU idles at 33'c and hit around 40'c during the benchmark. In CPU torture testing it hits about 10'c higher using windows monitoring software.
A few years ago i did delid this processor, shave down the lip where the IHS was glued to the PCB so it sat lower and it actually makes contact with the CPU core unlike before when intel just put a glob of goo to bridge the gap. I used liquid metal between the core and IHS, some heat resistant rubberized adhesive on the IHS lip, and locked it into the socket till the glue set. worked wonders! Back then when the CPU was new, on an H80i cooler it would hit 90'c @ 4.0ghz. After the delid, the hottest it saw was mid 60's on the same air cooler.

Current setup:
- i5-4670k @ 4.2ghz frequency locked with XSPC Raystorm V3 block
- GTX 780ti @ 1300mhz with Aquacomputer Kryographics full copper block
- Laing DDC 1T-PWM 10w pump (swapped out the DDC310 for this one after adding second radiator)
- Pump top is AlphaCool Eisdecke Acetel V2.
- XSPC ex360 radiator w/three Fractal Venturi HP-12 fans. (top mount as intake)
- XSPC ex280 radiator w/two Phanteks stock 140mm case fans. (front mount as intake)
- 1x 140mm Yate Loon exhaust medium speed version.
- Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic
- 3/8" x 5/8" Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing
- All compression, 45', and 90' fittings are from XSPC
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took 3 months to finally build but here she is! First time w/cing - was a great learning experience!


The first thing that crossed my mind when I put together this (my first) custom loop was how I wish i had a PCI Express adapter to turn my card 90' so i can see the actual block and coolant. Very nice!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0750_zpsg002c7xn.jpg.html

As you can see I'm having some issues. Left a sticker in the EK res on the EK emblem shaped anti cyclonic. Temps started to rise so I figured it was time to do some maint. Another forum member pointed out the sticker from a pic I posted. I had a small piece of flexible drain tube that had turned a shade or orange which I though was the culprit which it might have been but there was a sticker on the EK emblem too. Anyhoo my system is totally contaminated with something. Whole build is only 6 months old with only clear EK Ekocoolant used.

I broke down the whole system and flushed the reservoirs EK 360 mounted horizontally was basically clean, but a Hardware Labs 240 mounted vertically with ports on top was full of junk. Put system back together after cleaning everything except breaking down the GPU block. Broke the CPU block down and got all the gunk out of it I could so it's pretty clean and I think what is left is just staining on the copper. But as you can see I haven't broken down the GPU yet. Ran Mayhems part two through the loop overnight and took a picture of the GPU. Not good. Anybody know what that is and if I break it down will I be able to clean it. It's a Gigabyte Extreme 980ti. While the Mayhems part 2 was in the loop I tried to melt it off with some super high overclocks and Valley benchmarks but to no avail. I don't really have a problem breaking the GPU block down if I have to. Would you guys break it down? Sort of worried about the o ring and warranty. Is it worth it? What does the stuff of the block look like to you? Recon I can get it back to new condition if I break it down? Is breaking it down a bad idea or is the stuff on the GPU going to re-contaminate my system? Any advice?


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm on my burner phone ATM so I can't see pics. But I'm thinking that you may have a clog somewhere in the loop. Likely the radiator since you've broken down the loop except the GPU block and possibly the pump top.

I would tear I to the pump top and check that thoroughly since that's the first leg of the journey and then follow the loop order by component. Could be your clog is also in your tubing, assuming you're reusing that also.

~Ceadder


----------



## ali13245

Anyone know a good silicone bending cord for primochill PETG 1/2OD x 3/8ID tubing? The one that primochill sells is really bad, its a very tight fight and sometimes wont even go into the tube at all.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Anyone know a good silicone bending cord for primochill PETG 1/2OD x 3/8ID tubing? The one that primochill sells is really bad, its a very tight fight and sometimes wont even go into the tube at all.


As a matter of fact .. I do ... check out this post where I compare 7 versions of these things. Note that I am using Monsoon 3/8" x 1/2" tubes.

You are not going to like my conclusion ... primochill! It was difficult getting it in the first time (about 45 mins of work) but now it just seems to glide in all by itself. It is almost as if there is some static electricity going on that helps it. I also found that pulling the silicon (stretching!) helped as did cleaning any hairs and the like off it.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Anyone know a good silicone bending cord for primochill PETG 1/2OD x 3/8ID tubing? The one that primochill sells is really bad, its a very tight fight and sometimes wont even go into the tube at all.


Great place to get some cords
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-silicone-rubber-cords/=15llzu4


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm on my burner phone ATM so I can't see pics. But I'm thinking that you may have a clog somewhere in the loop. Likely the radiator since you've broken down the loop except the GPU block and possibly the pump top.
> 
> I would tear I to the pump top and check that thoroughly since that's the first leg of the journey and then follow the loop order by component. Could be your clog is also in your tubing, assuming you're reusing that also.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ceadder, no clog, just higher than normal temps. Pump 3.2 pwm has run around 2350 rpms since loop was built. Pushed it up one time in BIOS and it seemed like it was going to blow the fittings out.







I have no idea what is in there but I've cleaned all I can, decided not to void any warranties just in case some delamination starts. Wish there was a strong cleaning agent I could put in the loop. Ran Mayhems blitz 2 for 18 hrs and you can see in the pic what the GPU still looks like. I've ran three gallons through the loop after blits, overclocking and benching with fans off to get it hot every time then draining while hot. Fixing to start checking the PH between flushes to see if it's making any difference. Wonder what about 6oz of lemon juice added to a clean fill up would do. Or should I just double up on the blitz part 2 for a few hours. It's just a fine film that is covering everything and it just wont let go. Temps are much better now though. I can turn on the fans and run Valley, CPUZ stress test all at the same time and not go over 42c. But I know that if I can't get that out of the GPU it will spread out all over again. Maybe I'm just stressing about it too much. I have a fresh bottle of Mayhems XT1 clear to go in the loop. Recon I should just flush a few more times, add the XT and wait until I have to clean it again. Who knows, might not be enough left in it to cause any problems, but I was kinda hoping that I could run it for a couple years between tear downs. What would you do?


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

I used primochill on my last build and the blue mayhems tube worked perfect. 1/2 by 3/8 primochill hard tubing.


----------



## Hellbilly

I don't know if you missed BNegative's response earlier or not, but I'm going to echo his sentiment that that is brown algae in your block.

Personally, I would tear it apart and scrub the block out for a couple of reasons. First because if it is algae that is the only way it's going to come clean, and who wants to look at an acrylic block and see that. The other reason is algae is tough. You can completely dry it out and think it's dead, but once it gets wet again it can spring right back to life, so leaving it in there could just result in the problem springing up again.

I went back and read your post and you said that you did everything perfectly, but I don't see any mention of biocide to prevent algae. Did you use any?


----------



## JustinThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Anyone know a good silicone bending cord for primochill PETG 1/2OD x 3/8ID tubing? The one that primochill sells is really bad, its a very tight fight and sometimes wont even go into the tube at all.


They are all pretty tight, that's actually preferential. Trick is to lube the silicone cord with some olive oil before you stuff it in. Nice and tight where you have to twist it in lubed makes for better non kinked bends.


----------



## JustinThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> I don't know if you missed BNegative's response earlier or not, but I'm going to echo his sentiment that that is brown algae in your block.
> 
> Personally, I would tear it apart and scrub the block out for a couple of reasons. First because if it is algae that is the only way it's going to come clean, and who wants to look at an acrylic block and see that. The other reason is algae is tough. You can completely dry it out and think it's dead, but once it gets wet again it can spring right back to life, so leaving it in there could just result in the problem springing up again.
> 
> I went back and read your post and you said that you did everything perfectly, but I don't see any mention of biocide to prevent algae. Did you use any?


He said he was using the EK clear coolant. It has biocide already in it, their directions say not to add anything else as it May be counter productive with two different types nulling each other out.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0750_zpsg002c7xn.jpg.html
> 
> As you can see I'm having some issues. Left a sticker in the EK res on the EK emblem shaped anti cyclonic. Temps started to rise so I figured it was time to do some maint. Another forum member pointed out the sticker from a pic I posted. I had a small piece of flexible drain tube that had turned a shade or orange which I though was the culprit which it might have been but there was a sticker on the EK emblem too. Anyhoo my system is totally contaminated with something. Whole build is only 6 months old with only clear EK Ekocoolant used.
> 
> I broke down the whole system and flushed the reservoirs EK 360 mounted horizontally was basically clean, but a Hardware Labs 240 mounted vertically with ports on top was full of junk. Put system back together after cleaning everything except breaking down the GPU block. Broke the CPU block down and got all the gunk out of it I could so it's pretty clean and I think what is left is just staining on the copper. But as you can see I haven't broken down the GPU yet. Ran Mayhems part two through the loop overnight and took a picture of the GPU. Not good. Anybody know what that is and if I break it down will I be able to clean it. It's a Gigabyte Extreme 980ti. While the Mayhems part 2 was in the loop I tried to melt it off with some super high overclocks and Valley benchmarks but to no avail. I don't really have a problem breaking the GPU block down if I have to. Would you guys break it down? Sort of worried about the o ring and warranty. Is it worth it? What does the stuff of the block look like to you? Recon I can get it back to new condition if I break it down? Is breaking it down a bad idea or is the stuff on the GPU going to re-contaminate my system? Any advice?


Did the GPU block look like that before you ran the blitz through?
Blitz is not meant to be used on plated products, in fact nickel blocks should never be exposed to anything harsh like vinegar or acid.

When it comes to cleaning loops just draining it, taking the blocks apart and giving them a proper clean and polish is the only way that works and will be easier and less stressful in the long run. Putting the loop back together is much easier than initially building it.

You should not be scared of disassembling blocks. It is not difficult.

Hopefully that block will polish up like new but the idea of it being exposed to acid for hours worries me.

What type of stuff were you finding in the loop? What type of tubing are you using?
It's odd to see coloured buildup on the block with clear coolant. Maybe the lighting is playing tricks on me and it doesn't look like that in real life?


----------



## emsj86

That looks horrible


----------



## Ceadderman

DELTA, I have to echo all above sentiments now that the pic has loaded on my phone. Looks like Algae got "blitzed out" (pun intended







) and is floating in the loop.

Yer gonna hate this man, but the only way to deal with this is complete tear down disassembly and thorough cleaning by hand. Once back togother, flush it a couple of times to make sure all the Algae is gone(you will see less in the bucket as you go) and as necessary until no more exists. Then remove blocks to make certain there is no left over material hiding out.

That should clear up your issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Well, I decided to NOT take apart my gpu block. After 5 gallons of flushes, some extreme OCing and full pump speed it's somewhat better. The warranty on the GPU block is VERY important to me. The temps are totally under control, at 4.8ghz the idle temp is 33c. The gpu is the same. Running CPUZ stress test along with Valley CPU (980ti at 1542mhz) the loop after and hour of constant load maxed out at 46c. Even with fans off the loop stopped at 59c. Sooooooo, temps are definitely under control. All I really care about. PH was low with just DI water, but after mixing in Mayhems xt1 went a little high but that will slowly drop over time. Reworked the drain so there is NO flexible tubing in my computer and a very neat pump drain layout. Added a couple of 960 Evos 500gig while I was in there. hehe I hope AMD gives me a reason to change the CPU AND GPU blocks. hehe

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0753_zpshg7goyks.jpg.html


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Well, I decided to NOT take apart my gpu block. After 5 gallons of flushes, some extreme OCing and full pump speed it's somewhat better. The warranty on the GPU block is VERY important to me. The temps are totally under control, at 4.8ghz the idle temp is 33c. The gpu is the same. Running CPUZ stress test along with Valley CPU (980ti at 1542mhz) the loop after and hour of constant load maxed out at 46c. Even with fans off the loop stopped at 59c. Sooooooo, temps are definitely under control. All I really care about. PH was low with just DI water, but after mixing in Mayhems xt1 went a little high but that will slowly drop over time. Reworked the drain so there is NO flexible tubing in my computer and a very neat pump drain layout. Added a couple of 960 Evos 500gig while I was in there. hehe I hope AMD gives me a reason to change the CPU AND GPU blocks. hehe
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0753_zpshg7goyks.jpg.html


*https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/*

I have no problem opening my blocks to get any debris out from the fins. Sometimes you need to open up a block for a good cleaning, no choice.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> *https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/*
> 
> I have no problem opening my blocks to get any debris out from the fins. Sometimes you need to open up a block for a good cleaning, no choice.


The comment in that EK guide recommends using a grease to reseal the o-ring? Is that absolutely necessary? I've disassembled an H220 pump several times for cleaning without using grease on the o-ring and it never leaked once.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> The comment in that EK guide recommends using a grease to reseal the o-ring? Is that absolutely necessary? I've disassembled an H220 pump several times for cleaning without using grease on the o-ring and it never leaked once.[/quot
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> The comment in that EK guide recommends using a grease to reseal the o-ring? Is that absolutely necessary? I've disassembled an H220 pump several times for cleaning without using grease on the o-ring and it never leaked once.
> 
> 
> 
> Things like that and voiding my warranty is why I won't open my gpu block. CPU block opening doesn't void my warranty, actually instructs you in the instructions but GPU is a different deal. If my GPU block metal starts flaking off I want another one....... free.
Click to expand...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Things like that and voiding my warranty is why I won't open my gpu block. CPU block opening doesn't void my warranty, actually instructs you in the instructions but GPU is a different deal. If my GPU block metal starts flaking off I want another one....... free.


opening the GPU block voids its warranty? not saying you are wrong, but I find that very surprising. I've opened all of mine at least once for cleaning without issues

edit: https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205235541-How-to-clean-water-blocks-
says the warranty wont be voided, but the "leak free" guarantee will no longer be in place


----------



## MattBaneLM

Hi guys just found this room

How is y'all?




My kit is in my sig


----------



## D13mass

Hi guys! I am looking for a new fans for my mo-ra3, now I installed what I had
4 - Noctua NF-A14 FLX
2 - Fractal from my case
2 - Corsair AF140
1 - Gelid something








One of noctua's fan stopped work and for 100% I will buy new, but it will be not noctua's because I want to create some a fairly simple in one color.


----------



## inedenimadam

^ I have had pretty good luck buying Vardars for radiator fans. If you aren't scared of Noctura pricing, then EK pricing shouldn't scare you either.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> ^ I have had pretty good luck buying Vardars for radiator fans. If you aren't scared of Noctura pricing, then EK pricing shouldn't scare you either.


I thought about Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B14-3 but it`s little expensive








And yes I also thought about EK-Vardar F2-140 (1600rpm) with shipping from Slovenia to Ukraine it will be cheaper in 50% than NB-eLoop


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> [ I also thought about EK-Vardar F2-140 (1600rpm) with shipping from Slovenia to Ukraine it will be cheaper in 50% than NB-eLoop


I have a bunch the 120mm 1850s. They are good fans IMO. I hear good things about the eLoops too, but it would be a hard sale if the Vardars were 50% cheaper.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> I have a bunch the 120mm 1850s. They are good fans IMO. I hear good things about the eLoops too, but it would be a hard sale if the Vardars were 50% cheaper.










thanks,

What else I can buy except Vardar and NB-eLoop ? Maybe some cheaper or better? Because during all day I `ve been reading many articles and usually people advised NB-eLoop or Noctua.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> What else I can buy except Vardar and NB-eLoop ? Maybe some cheaper or better? Because during all day I `ve been reading many articles and usually people advised NB-eLoop or Noctua.


I'm using NB-Black Silent Pro, and I really like them. They look great and perform pretty good, Maybe not the cheapest but not the most expensive either. You might wanna check them out.
http://www.blacknoise.com/site/de/produkte/noiseblocker-it-luefter/nb-blacksilent-pro-series/140x140x25mm.php
http://www.blacknoise.com/site/de/produkte/noiseblocker-it-luefter/nb-blacksilent-pro-series/120x120x25mm.php


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I'm using NB-Black Silent Pro, and I really like them. They look great and perform pretty good, Maybe not the cheapest but not the most expensive either. You might wanna check them out.
> http://www.blacknoise.com/site/de/produkte/noiseblocker-it-luefter/nb-blacksilent-pro-series/140x140x25mm.php
> http://www.blacknoise.com/site/de/produkte/noiseblocker-it-luefter/nb-blacksilent-pro-series/120x120x25mm.php


Thanks Bro







I have added to my list.

And I found really good price (£6.84 ) for Phobya Nano-G 14 Silent Waterproof 1000rpm on aquatuning http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/axial-fans/7862/phobya-nano-g-14-silent-waterproof-1000rpm-s7-140x140x25mm
I`m thinking, is it good fan or not?


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> I don't know if you missed BNegative's response earlier or not, but I'm going to echo his sentiment that that is brown algae in your block.
> 
> Personally, I would tear it apart and scrub the block out for a couple of reasons. First because if it is algae that is the only way it's going to come clean, and who wants to look at an acrylic block and see that. The other reason is algae is tough. You can completely dry it out and think it's dead, but once it gets wet again it can spring right back to life, so leaving it in there could just result in the problem springing up again.
> 
> I went back and read your post and you said that you did everything perfectly, but I don't see any mention of biocide to prevent algae. Did you use any?


Hellbilly, I used EK's Ekocoolant which is supposed to cover all bases. She's good for now, Nothing beats extreme overclocks, maximum water pump and draining while hot over and over. Got a little more crud out every time.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0753_zpshg7goyks.jpg.html


----------



## Revan654

I have EKoolant (Or however EK spells their Coolant). I haven't seen any issues so far. I only used it for a few months. Everyone I talked to said EK Coolant is better then Mayhems X1 line. I think theirs to many variables to take into account on which one is better.

I have heard X1 UV effects dies out pretty quickly compared to EK's.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I have EKoolant (Or however EK spells their Coolant). I haven't seen any issues so far. I only used it for a few months. Everyone I talked to said EK Coolant is better then Mayhems X1 line. I think theirs to many variables to take into account on which one is better.
> 
> I have heard X1 UV effects dies out pretty quickly compared to EK's.


I've used both, same stuff kinda. X1 is a much, much bigger bottle so there's that. Mayhems says it will hold it's properties for 9 months, heck their new pastel is rated for longer than that. After I do my next flush and fill in 6 months I'm just gonna try DI water and mayhems biocide extreme. That way if there's no problems with water clarity you just have to keep a check on the pH and add the biocide as needed. I removed the short piece of plastic drain tubing which had went from clear to very discolored. Now I have NO plastic of any kind in my loop. It may have been the sticker on the res but I think some of the stuff in the CPU block was plasticizer from the tubing. The sticker was in tact and there's no way a 1/4 of a square inch (thats how far the sticker had peeled back) of adhesive caused all that residue. After thinking about it, it had to be the short piece of tubing which I eliminated so the water should stay clear. We'll see.


----------



## Archangel59

Please add me to the club. Below is a pic of my rig using Thermaltake Water 3.0 Extreme (360mm) and the EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid. The MoBo is an Asus Rampage V Edition 10 with 128 GB of Corsair Vengence LPX 3200.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> I've used both, same stuff kinda. X1 is a much, much bigger bottle so there's that. Mayhems says it will hold it's properties for 9 months, heck their new pastel is rated for longer than that. After I do my next flush and fill in 6 months I'm just gonna try DI water and mayhems biocide extreme. That way if there's no problems with water clarity you just have to keep a check on the pH and add the biocide as needed. I removed the short piece of plastic drain tubing which had went from clear to very discolored. Now I have NO plastic of any kind in my loop. It may have been the sticker on the res but I think some of the stuff in the CPU block was plasticizer from the tubing. The sticker was in tact and there's no way a 1/4 of a square inch (thats how far the sticker had peeled back) of adhesive caused all that residue. After thinking about it, it had to be the short piece of tubing which I eliminated so the water should stay clear. We'll see.


1 Litter is one litter, no matter what the shape of the bottle is.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1 Litter is one litter, no matter what the shape of the bottle is.


The EK makes much less than the XT-1. It took only a couple of cap fulls to bring the PH of my system into the correct range, but I went ahead and added the whole bottle.... hehe. More of a good thing has to be better. It took the whole bottle of EK. But in all fairness it was not the EK Ekocoolant EVO, it was the older Ekocoolant. Both are made for EK by Mayhems and I imagine that EK has to make a profit margin plus bottling it in their bottle, so there's that. I'd bet that you get more, bigger bottle, with Mayhems for the same price, just makes common sense. I'm going to buy another bottle of Mayhems since it's so storable and just add a little if the water pH holds up. But, I really don't have that good of luck, probably will have the system back apart in a month especially since I know now that I can break down the block without voiding my warranty. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Hi guys just found this room

How is y'all?




My kit is in my sig

And FWformat.... u suck
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Hi guys! I am looking for a new fans for my mo-ra3, now I installed what I had
> 4 - Noctua NF-A14 FLX
> 2 - Fractal from my case
> 2 - Corsair AF140
> 1 - Gelid something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of noctua's fan stopped work and for 100% I will buy new, but it will be not noctua's because I want to create some a fairly simple in one color.


the hell is that? a car radiator?!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> Hi guys just found this room
> 
> How is y'all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My kit is in my sig
> 
> And FWformat.... u suck
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Hi guys! I am looking for a new fans for my *mo-ra3*, now I installed what I had
> 4 - Noctua NF-A14 FLX
> 2 - Fractal from my case
> 2 - Corsair AF140
> 1 - Gelid something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of noctua's fan stopped work and for 100% I will buy new, but it will be not noctua's because I want to create some a fairly simple in one color.
> 
> 
> 
> the hell is that? a car radiator?!
Click to expand...

Nope. It's a 9x120 Rad.









Name of it is bolded above and it's an External Radiator unless you have a CaseLabs.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

The setup @D13mass posted is a Heatkiller MO-RA3 radiator that Watercool sells in either a 3x3 120mm or 140mm setup, purpose built for quiet (or large heat load) computer parts watercooling. It doesn't fit in that many cases, and a good portion of people will mount it externally (which Watercool sells brackets and/or stands for)


----------



## D13mass

Guys, 9*140 =)


----------



## MattBaneLM

Nomnomnom


----------



## looniam

for those interested:

WATERCOOL HEATKILLER MO-RA3 420 PRO RADIATOR


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, 9*140 =)


What idle and load temps are you getting with your MOAR Rad on your 6700K and what is your ambient temp at the time of your readings?


----------



## D13mass

6700k - 4600mhz (1.42v) + 980ti 1465/8400 (1.19v), temp inside flat ~24°C, idle 20°C, load 45-50°C, fans are working for 600rpm, but I want to change them, like I said before.
During loading liquid temp increase until 35°C.
Reason why I bought Mo-ra3: before I used 2*240mm radiators but it was not enough for my system and space inside my case only for 2*240, so I wanted to create silent build.


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> 6700k - 4600mhz (1.42v) + 980ti 1465/8400 (1.19v), temp inside flat ~24°C, idle 20°C, load 45-50°C, fans are working for 600rpm, but I want to change them, like I said before.
> During loading liquid temp increase until 35°C.
> Reason why I bought Mo-ra3: before I used 2*240mm radiators but it was not enough for my system and space inside my case only for 2*240, so I wanted to create silent build.


Nice build, very neat inside the case.

What software are you running when getting 45-50 degree load temps ?

I'm surprised your water temp is so high above ambient, I would have thought the Delta-T would only be no more than 5 degrees with a big rad like that ?

What is the water temp when not under load , so when the cpu and gpu is idling?


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 6700k - 4600mhz (1.42v) + 980ti 1465/8400 (1.19v), temp inside flat ~24°C, idle 20°C, load 45-50°C, fans are working for 600rpm, but I want to change them, like I said before.
> During loading liquid temp increase until 35°C.
> Reason why I bought Mo-ra3: before I used 2*240mm radiators but it was not enough for my system and space inside my case only for 2*240, so I wanted to create silent build.


Nice







Do you use it as a vacuum cleaner as well?


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> Nice build, very neat inside the case.
> 
> What software are you running when getting 45-50 degree load temps ?
> 
> I'm surprised your water temp is so high above ambient, I would have thought the Delta-T would only be no more than 5 degrees with a big rad like that ?
> 
> What is the water temp when not under load , so when the cpu and gpu is idling?


Thanks!









About software: Witcher3







, LinX can heat up my cpu until 55.
Water temp = ~23 when everything without load.
And I use not water, I use some liquid for heat system (consist: propilenglicol+anticorrosion and anti biological additives)
Quote:


> I'm surprised your water temp is so high above ambient, I would have thought the Delta-T would only be no more than 5 degrees with a big rad like that ?


Maybe because like I said fans are working for 50%.
In my signature I have a link to PhotoAlbum you can check how it looked before (it`s my build#3) I have really hot videocard







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gleniu*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use it as a vacuum cleaner as well?


Of course


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> The setup @D13mass posted is a Heatkiller MO-RA3 radiator that Watercool sells in either a 3x3 120mm or 140mm setup, purpose built for quiet (or large heat load) computer parts watercooling. It doesn't fit in that many cases, and a good portion of people will mount it externally (which Watercool sells brackets and/or stands for)


Yep, reason if that one over in the sells area still up after Feb. I'm buying it.







I need the rad space to keep these GPUs cool in Alabama Summers.

...Though, Xmas day here was 80F.







Where the heck is Winter....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> 6700k - 4600mhz (1.42v) + 980ti 1465/8400 (1.19v), temp inside flat ~24°C, idle 20°C, load 45-50°C, fans are working for 600rpm, but I want to change them, like I said before.
> During loading liquid temp increase until 35°C.


Darn. 600rpm? That would be super nice to run my eLoops at. Not bad temps considering you run your fans that low.

I have to run my eLoops at 1700rpm to keep my two 980Tis below 50C. Stinkers can pump out some serious heat when folding. Then again, I deal with inside temps of 75-78F/ 23-25.5C.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> 6700k - 4600mhz (1.42v) + 980ti 1465/8400 (1.19v), temp inside flat ~24°C, idle 20°C, load 45-50°C, fans are working for 600rpm, but I want to change them, like I said before.
> During loading liquid temp increase until 35°C.
> Reason why I bought Mo-ra3: before I used 2*240mm radiators but it was not enough for my system and space inside my case only for 2*240, so I wanted to create silent build.


Your problem is the pump i would say. I had similar setup and my load water temps never reached 28°C. But that with two pumps, tried one d5 and it rather struggled. Fans run at lowest speed which was 450 rpm. Two D5 pumps, i7 4690k @4.7ghz and 980ti max oc.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Had a little paint work today









Caselabs S3 buildlog in Siggy for more.



TCO


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yep, reason if that one over in the sells area still up after Feb. I'm buying it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need the rad space to keep these GPUs cool in Alabama Summers.
> 
> ...Though, Xmas day here was 80F.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the heck is Winter....


No idea. We had almost a week of shorts weather up here after a week and a half of -23C (and windchills as low as -33C),then average temps (-10C give or take) and now we're back up to 2C again in the day.

And yeah, your 980 Ti's sure do put out a decent amount of heat in your setup!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> What idle and load temps are you getting with your MOAR Rad on your 6700K and what is your ambient temp at the time of your readings?


I have to playfully mention that it's "MO-RA" named as an abbreviation of "monster radiator" if I remember correctly. I so want one for my benching rig for daily experimentation and whatnot (aka moderate prep before I take the gear subzero)


----------



## rathborne

Hi guys,

I finally water cooled my main gaming rig.




Spoiler: Specifications



i7-4790K
GTX980ti SC+
8GB 1866mhz DDR3

EK Supremacy EVO nickel CPU block
EK Titan GPU block and back plate
EK DCP4.0 pump
XSPC 420 30mm radiator

Mayhems 10/16mm soft tubing
Mayhems UV/clear intensifier dye
450ml EK coolant
4 x Noctua Redux 140mm fans


----------



## paskowitz

What case is that?


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> What case is that?


It _was_ an Antec P180







... but I added a side window, resprayed it black inside with white exterior, added cable clips behind the motherboard tray, removed the dividing shelf, created a 420mm radiator mount for the front, opened up the front panel and added a mesh cover to it and the top vent and made a mesh PSU cover. Always liked the Antec Performance series so was happy to make it my first PC modding project (build log)







.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Well, I decided to NOT take apart my gpu block. After 5 gallons of flushes, some extreme OCing and full pump speed it's somewhat better. The warranty on the GPU block is VERY important to me. The temps are totally under control, at 4.8ghz the idle temp is 33c. The gpu is the same. Running CPUZ stress test along with Valley CPU (980ti at 1542mhz) the loop after and hour of constant load maxed out at 46c. Even with fans off the loop stopped at 59c. Sooooooo, temps are definitely under control. All I really care about. PH was low with just DI water, but after mixing in Mayhems xt1 went a little high but that will slowly drop over time. Reworked the drain so there is NO flexible tubing in my computer and a very neat pump drain layout. Added a couple of 960 Evos 500gig while I was in there. hehe I hope AMD gives me a reason to change the CPU AND GPU blocks. hehe
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0753_zpshg7goyks.jpg.html


Glad it worked out to your satisfaction, so far at least.

For anyone reading, disassembling an EK block of any kind will not void the warranty. If you contact them with a finish problem the first thing they will tell you to do is to take it apart and clean it.

Soft tubing always caused some build-up problems in my systems till I converted them to hard tube. Have never looked back since. In many ways I think hard tube can actually be easier and more noob friendly, in assembly, maintenance and leak prevention.


----------



## rathar3

Finished my new hard line rebuild today. Still working on a few cables and some minor details



The overhead lighting is cablemods uv/rgb dual Led lighting. Res is lit with monsoon uv black. This is my first try at hard line went pretty good


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Finished my new hard line rebuild today. Still working on a few cables and some minor details
> 
> 
> 
> The overhead lighting is cablemods uv/rgb dual Led lighting. Res is lit with monsoon uv black. This is my first try at hard line went pretty good


Only CPU under water? =(


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Only CPU under water? =(


So far i have 1 480's but have not gotten that far yet.I have some health issues so i am limited in how much i can do at one time. So i do it in phases plus this is my first time doing hardline so i wanted to go slow

Hoping by spring to have the GPU under water still need to figure out what GPU block i want.


----------



## D13mass

I understand you, get well !


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Finished my new hard line rebuild today. Still working on a few cables and some minor details
> 
> 
> 
> The overhead lighting is cablemods uv/rgb dual Led lighting. Res is lit with monsoon uv black. This is my first try at hard line went pretty good


I assume your Coolant isn't UV?

Very good at your first try at Hardlining, You should take some picture from the other side & some close up of of the parts too.


----------



## MattBaneLM

I stick with the flexible tubing cause I'm always fiddling and wanted the ability to pull my 360 out the front for ice buckets


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I assume your Coolant isn't UV?
> 
> Very good at your first try at Hardlining, You should take some picture from the other side & some close up of of the parts too.


Its suppose to be UV purple but not sure i have enough in there.And thanks for the comment its my first hardline and it took some time i think i remade every line 3 times before i got it right. will take more pics when i am feeling better the holidays always wear me out BLEH


----------



## adriankiller

new loop



Spec :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



- i7 6700K 4.8Ghz
- GiGabyte z170x SOC Force
- EvGa GTX 980TI
- Corsair 900D
- Avexir Platinium DDR4 4x4GB 2133MHZ
- BeQuiet p8 1000W
- 2x Plextor M6e BE 128GB / Segate 1TB
- AsUs StriX SoaR
- EdiFier 980T
- LG 34UM58



more photo


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## paskowitz

Parvum makes fans?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Parvum makes fans?


Nah, they're rebadged Alpenfohn Wing Boost 2's.

https://www.alpenfoehn.de/en/fans/120-mm/snow-white-plus-2


----------



## 0ldChicken

@adriankiller I really like the coloring on those fans! I don't think I've noticed them around before but they really pop








@Gilles3000 Thanks for the info! I'll look into these for future builds
+rep to the both of you


----------



## krutoydiesel

My build - *Alloyminium*


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*


Looks great. Clear coolant gives it clarity and cleanliness.


----------



## fleetfeather

why deal with rigid tubing and bends, when you can drop $$$ on extensions so your soft tubing looks straight









shoulda grabbed some telescopic SLI fittings and some F-F G1/4 adapters haha


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> why deal with rigid tubing and bends, when you can drop $$$ on extensions so your soft tubing looks straight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shoulda grabbed some telescopic SLI fittings and some F-F G1/4 adapters haha


Cause its something i enjoy and it looks cleaner


----------



## rathar3

took 2 more pics with my crappy camera res and cpu block


----------



## Mega Man

you can easily print vinyl { not saying he did }


----------



## DarthBaggins

Can't wait to drop my X99 goodies and loop into this lil guy thanks to Intel Retail Edge.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Can't wait to drop my X99 goodies and loop into this lil guy thanks to Intel Retail Edge.


In Win 303?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> In Win 303?


If I ever saw one.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup 303, downsizing from my Caselabs M8
Thinking of painting the mobo tray B52 Gray


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Little more work.





Link to Log

TCO


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yup 303, downsizing from my Caselabs M8
> Thinking of painting the mobo tray B52 Gray


But, but... Whyyyyyyy, you loved that M8!


----------



## Sazexa

Happy New Years/New Year's Eve!

I was recently discussing water temps and whether it's worth adding another radiator or not. I didn't get a temperature monitor, but, I did find this:

After playing BF1 for roughly an hour and a half. After exiting the game quickly, CPU temperatures immediately dropped from ~55C to 36C. While the GPU dropped from 44 to 36C as well. Which I didn't realize my GPU ran that chilly in BF to start with haha

So, I'm assuming my water temperature is somewhere in that neighborhood then, correct? ~36C in this case.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> But, but... Whyyyyyyy, you loved that M8!


I wonder if the M8 might be put up for sale. Though, I got like five to six cases already but no Case Lab case.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Happy New Years/New Year's Eve!
> 
> I was recently discussing water temps and whether it's worth adding another radiator or not. I didn't get a temperature monitor, but, I did find this:
> 
> After playing BF1 for roughly an hour and a half. After exiting the game quickly, CPU temperatures immediately dropped from ~55C to 36C. While the GPU dropped from 44 to 36C as well. Which I didn't realize my GPU ran that chilly in BF to start with haha
> 
> So, I'm assuming my water temperature is somewhere in that neighborhood then, correct? ~36C in this case.


I belive so, although probably closer to 34c imo. Didn't you say your ambient is about 67f? that'd be about 20c so a ~14c delta T. If that is the case then I think another equal rad could pull temps down as much as 7c.


----------



## fast_fate

Happy New Years









Drop in Mobo Assembly successfully leak tested


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Happy New Years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drop in Mobo Assembly successfully leak tested


just pure awesomeness! what board is that dude?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> just pure awesomeness! what board is that dude?


Bit Old School now.....
Rampage IV Formula.
Got better overclocks on this board than on any of the 4 x RIVE boards I went through with both 3930K and 3960X chips


----------



## MattBaneLM

Who cares if it's a bit older

Since the first i5/7's where have the real advances been anyway? 5-10% per change

I wouldn't have even bought skylake if I hadn't killed my 1155 mobo with a multimeter lol

Have a very lovely 3570k overclocker dilidded sitting on a mobo that doesn't even hit its turbo clock and I wasn't finished wIt's it dammit

I personally think 775 is s still a viable platform. Not to mention the funniest memories I have of overclocking


----------



## MattBaneLM

Also the last time I spent $800 on a mobo and I still have the thing

Xfx 790i ultra tri-sli

Still looks sexy as ... well .. you know


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yup 303, downsizing from my Caselabs M8
> Thinking of painting the mobo tray B52 Gray


Is the b52 grey like the gun metal grey


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> Who cares if it's a bit older
> 
> Since the first i5/7's where have the real advances been anyway? 5-10% per change
> 
> I wouldn't have even bought skylake if I hadn't killed my 1155 mobo with a multimeter lol
> 
> Have a very lovely 3570k overclocker dilidded sitting on a mobo that doesn't even hit its turbo clock and I wasn't finished wIt's it dammit
> 
> I personally think 775 is s still a viable platform. Not to mention the funniest memories I have of overclocking


How did you kill your board with a multimeter?


----------



## Mega Man

he probably shorted something out


----------



## DarthBaggins

303 is coming together. . just need to mount pump/res/rad. .


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> 303 is coming together. . just need to mount pump/res/rad. .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If the 303 didn't have the blue accent, and opted for white, I'd likely have bought one myself. I love the cases design.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Pumps can't get close enough to line up with the reservoir for a straight tube run.

It's always something.









TCO


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> If the 303 didn't have the blue accent, and opted for white, I'd likely have bought one myself. I love the cases design.


That's a very simple mod to remove the blue. It's just a piece of coloured acrylic which can be made clear, or a new one made up.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> My build - *Alloyminium*
> 
> *snip*


absolutely perfect. well done, my friend. that ever-so-slight tint of purple/red in the water gives the system a much more sophisticated look. really diggin this one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Happy New Years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drop in Mobo Assembly successfully leak tested


looks madness but I am all for this madness


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> That's a very simple mod to remove the blue. It's just a piece of coloured acrylic which can be made clear, or a new one made up.


I didn't know that.

Currently I'm looking at a few other cases though. Can't make a decision...

- In Win 909
- Phanteks Enthoo Elite
- Lian Li PC-O11


----------



## muzammil84

just switched from Core P5 to FT02. Nothing special but the case was challenging and is not very popular choice for watercooling,





























sorry for bad phone pics. thx for looking

Happy New Year


----------



## sli_shroom

nice color combo. with most of the build being white the orange really pops!


----------



## fast_fate

Bay & Tube res unite


----------



## LiquidHaus

got a new strobe over christmas. my rig was the first subject to test it with


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'll be modding mine to be white as to match everything else (trying to stick with a black/white/gray esk)


----------



## duganator

I'm almost embarrassed to post this because it's just an aio and you guys all have gorgeous builds, but here's my rig. 5960x under a new 360 aio from arctic


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> I'm almost embarrassed to post this because it's just an aio and you guys all have gorgeous builds, but here's my rig. 5960x under a new 360 aio from arctic


Looks nice n clean buddy ??


----------



## Mega Man

everyone has to start somewhere. you will grow, and if you dont, that is fine too. we are pc enthusiasts, just from your rig you qualify !!!!


----------



## duganator

I was actually debating going full custom loop, but they don't make a block for my 1070 so I decided against it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> everyone has to start somewhere. you will grow, and if you dont, that is fine too. we are pc enthusiasts, just from your rig you qualify !!!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> I was actually debating going full custom loop, but they don't make a block for my 1070 so I decided against it.


Cpu only loops aren't bad at all. Then when you upgrade cards down the line, you just add a couple fittings and Roll On.

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

yep


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> I was actually debating going full custom loop, but they don't make a block for my 1070 so I decided against it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> everyone has to start somewhere. you will grow, and if you dont, that is fine too. we are pc enthusiasts, just from your rig you qualify !!!!
Click to expand...

You don't need FC block for a 1070. A GPU block will suffice. Yeah you'll need a handful of heatsinks also, but putting your GPU under water will take some of the sting out of your system's sound profile.









There are actually quite a few Cards from Entry to Enthusiast levels that nobody makes blocks for. I just finished up my Client build and his R9 390 Nitro is full on air. I could sell him one of my Thermospheres and stick heatsinks on the rest but the coolers on the card far surpass heatsinks and then there is the loss of the backplate to consider. Yes you have one on the 1070, but those are questions only you can answer.









~Ceadder


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> I was actually debating going full custom loop, but they don't make a block for my 1070 so I decided against it.


Hi there

If you have Zotac as I do only option is to use or get waterblock from Alphacool, only this company makes blocks for AMP or AMP Extreme from Zotac

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## duganator

I wanted a full cover block, everything else just looks goofy to me. It was going to be way too much trouble and $$$ to sell the current card, get a new one and buy a block for it. As it stands, the arctic 360 is a huge step up from my old h100i in terms of cooling and noise. During streaming and gaming the CPU rarely breaks 60c. Unfortunately for me, I'm pretty sure I got a crappy 5960x. It takes 1.37 volts to hit 4.4







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You don't need FC block for a 1070. A GPU block will suffice. Yeah you'll need a handful of heatsinks also, but putting your GPU under water will take some of the sting out of your system's sound profile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are actually quite a few Cards from Entry to Enthusiast levels that nobody makes blocks for. I just finished up my Client build and his R9 390 Nitro is full on air. I could sell him one of my Thermospheres and stick heatsinks on the rest but the coolers on the card far surpass heatsinks and then there is the loss of the backplate to consider. Yes you have one on the 1070, but those are questions only you can answer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> I wanted a full cover block, everything else just looks goofy to me. It was going to be way too much trouble and $$$ to sell the current card, get a new one and buy a block for it. As it stands, the arctic 360 is a huge step up from my old h100i in terms of cooling and noise. During streaming and gaming the CPU rarely breaks 60c. Unfortunately for me, I'm pretty sure I got a crappy 5960x. It takes 1.37 volts to hit 4.4


You got an 8 core cpu to OC to 4.4ghz with under 1.4 core V? That's not bad in my book, especially for everyday use.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

^I will defer to TC0, since he probably knows more about 5960k, but my stance on Delid remains an option.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> I wanted a full cover block, everything else just looks goofy to me. It was going to be way too much trouble and $$$ to sell the current card, get a new one and buy a block for it. As it stands, the arctic 360 is a huge step up from my old h100i in terms of cooling and noise. During streaming and gaming the CPU rarely breaks 60c. Unfortunately for me, I'm pretty sure I got a crappy 5960x. It takes 1.37 volts to hit 4.4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You don't need FC block for a 1070. A GPU block will suffice. Yeah you'll need a handful of heatsinks also, but putting your GPU under water will take some of the sting out of your system's sound profile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are actually quite a few Cards from Entry to Enthusiast levels that nobody makes blocks for. I just finished up my Client build and his R9 390 Nitro is full on air. I could sell him one of my Thermospheres and stick heatsinks on the rest but the coolers on the card far surpass heatsinks and then there is the loss of the backplate to consider. Yes you have one on the 1070, but those are questions only you can answer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Delid that puppy. I bet your stock voltage could get 4.4 easily with a fresh delid under it's hood.









Last reply before you...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> I was actually debating going full custom loop, but they don't make a block for my 1070 so I decided against it.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there
> 
> If you have Zotac as I do only option is to use or get waterblock from *Alphacool, only this company makes blocks for AMP or AMP Extreme from Zotac*
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura
Click to expand...

Thank you Jura for the information...









Back on 5960 topic... I would seriously look at delidding though. You didn't get a bum chip until you've delidded and seen the results after that. If you don't feel comfortable delidding, there are people who will delid your chip for a reasonable amount. But I would suggest doing it oneself. PPCs rents delid tools. You can get them for between 20 and 40 dollars around the net and they're fairly straight foward and simplistic to use.









________________________________________
Edit:
Just realized that the IHS on the 5960k may be soldered... they can be delidded if soldered, but definitely take steps to care for the Die and resistors. Someone in the Delid thread knocked off 3 of their resistors in a 5820k.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^I will defer to TC0, since he probably knows more about 5960k,
> ________________________________________
> Edit:
> Just realized that the IHS on the 5960k may be soldered... they can be delidded if soldered, but definitely take steps to care for the Die and resistors. Someone in the Delid thread knocked off 3 of their resistors in a 5820k.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea, most of the X Chips are soldered, really no reason to delid a 1000USD Chip for a couple C less, unless you were benching with LN2 or whatnot.

If one really needs to feel accomplished, push the Chip to 1.5 core V and see what you can keep the temps at. I would easily push an 8 core past 1.4-1.45 core V for everyday use, but would not exceed 1.5 Core V for benchmark.

TCO


----------



## LiquidHaus

I got a customer's 6950x to 4.375ghz at 1.3v the other week.

I was so jealous of his chip...


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just realized that the IHS on the 5960k may be soldered... they can be delidded if soldered, but definitely take steps to care for the Die and resistors. Someone in the Delid thread knocked off 3 of their resistors in a 5820k.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, that was me....ops!

the lid came off fine, but when I was cleaning off the solder, my blade must have slipped and knocked them off...the chip was pretty much toast anyway, degraded to needing a large offset to be stable at stock, and quickly was getting worse...not a huge loss. The lid came off remarkably easy, I barely put any heat on it.


----------



## Trestles126

Bored waiting for parts for my s8 build and organizing and doing some spring cleaning I decided to build a little work island to keep all my watercooling parts/ tools/ and computer related extras organized. With a baby on the way and starting a master bedroom bath add on for me and the wife redoing garage is far out. Soon I will rent a pod store all my crap and dryway insulate and put in can lighting and redo all my shelves and storage. Also want to throw down a epoxy floor but for now gotta work with what I got.

Funny thing is my s8 is near completion. Still will be nice to have a clean work area with storage.







And some updated pics of my bh4


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> just switched from Core P5 to FT02. Nothing special but the case was challenging and is not very popular choice for watercooling,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for bad phone pics. thx for looking
> 
> Happy New Year


Can you post the front? I'm curious how you did the front bays since it looks like you removed their mounts completely.

Also underneath the top cover plz.


----------



## MrStrat007

"X" chips are all soldered IHS and should not be delidded ever, you'll rip the CPU right off and have a $1,000 paperweight.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Can you post the front? I'm curious how you did the front bays since it looks like you removed their mounts completely.
> 
> Also underneath the top cover plz.


Front is not really finished, i just put some spare clear acrylic(it's scratched) for now, I'm thinking of covering it with black matt acrylic to match the rest of outer shell.



Top of the case looks like this, i know it's not rigid tube anymore but it's under the lid anyway. Photo taken before filling the loop:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Can you post the front? I'm curious how you did the front bays since it looks like you removed their mounts completely.
> 
> Also underneath the top cover plz.


Either I'm seeing crap or does it look like there's a face in the reservoir's condensation lol

Hoping to be able to fire the 303 up soon, had to get a sata power splitter from work so I can power my 2 840 Pro's since the 90 degree powers on my psu add to much stress on the drives, but only on the 2.5's while my dual 3.5 2TB's were fine.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> got a new strobe over christmas. my rig was the first subject to test it with


Stunning!


----------



## duganator

Wow, I was under the impression that was really high for a 4.4 oc. Do you think the chip has more headroom based on the voltage I'm currently using? I'm not sure how much more headroom this cooler has though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You got an 8 core cpu to OC to 4.4ghz with under 1.4 core V? That's not bad in my book, especially for everyday use.
> 
> TCO


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> "X" chips are all soldered IHS and should not be delidded ever, you'll rip the CPU right off and have a $1,000 paperweight.


not ever?

soldered chip have been getting delided since . . . P4 days and more recently


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











LN2 benchers can get cracks in the solder with the wide range of temps (thermal cycling). replacing the solder with liquid metal Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut* will, overtime, perform better. (discussed HERE)

if you don't know how/what to do, sure it's a big risk . .but not ever?

nope.

*correction

thank WW.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> not ever?
> 
> soldered chip have been getting delided since . . . P4 days and more recently
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LN2 benchers can get cracks in the solder with the wide range of temps (thermal cycling). replacing the solder with liquid metal will, overtime, perform better. (discussed HERE)
> 
> if you don't know how/what to do, sure it's a big risk . .but not ever?
> 
> nope.


Liquid metal doesn't get along well with subzero benching as it has a bad habit of freezing solid under Ln2 - most subzero benchers use Gelid, or more recently they use Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut due to being designed for such uses.


----------



## Mega Man

I was about to say the same. It can be done, should it? Not if you have to ask that question


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> not ever?
> 
> soldered chip have been getting delided since . . . P4 days and more recently
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LN2 benchers can get cracks in the solder with the wide range of temps (thermal cycling). replacing the solder with liquid metal will, overtime, perform better. (discussed HERE)
> 
> if you don't know how/what to do, sure it's a big risk . .but not ever?
> 
> nope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Liquid metal doesn't get along well with subzero benching as it has a bad habit of freezing solid under Ln2 - most subzero benchers use Gelid, or more recently they use Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut due to being designed for such uses.
Click to expand...

oooppsie! my bad.

thanks for the correction . . (+rep)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> Wow, I was under the impression that was really high for a 4.4 oc. Do you think the chip has more headroom based on the voltage I'm currently using? I'm not sure how much more headroom this cooler has though


At 1.37 core v, I think it could be pushed more, not much but If you desire try it at 1.45 coreV and see if you have a stable overclock. For mammoth chips like that you normally need a custom loop and some good rad space.

TCO


----------



## duganator

I'll try pushing up to 1.4 and see what that gets me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> At 1.37 core v, I think it could be pushed more, not much but If you desire try it at 1.45 coreV and see if you have a stable overclock. For mammoth chips like that you normally need a custom loop and some good rad space.
> 
> TCO


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> got a new strobe over christmas. my rig was the first subject to test it with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your bends are really amazing, love the fluidity and design here. Presumably all done by hand, as you can't do that with mandrels, but did you do a lot of measuring or was it all by eye and lots of trial and error? What is the specific brand of tubing you're using? I've mostly used EK-HD PETG 16mm myself, and I'm pretty sure some of the bends you've done here just aren't possible with that without deforming the tube, so I'm curious what you've used and your techniques. Thanks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> I'll try pushing up to 1.4 and see what that gets me


Live a little. Do it.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> got a new strobe over christmas. my rig was the first subject to test it with


Your photography has come on leaps and bounds.

NIce build too.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Your bends are really amazing, love the fluidity and design here. Presumably all done by hand, as you can't do that with mandrels, but did you do a lot of measuring or was it all by eye and lots of trial and error? What is the specific brand of tubing you're using? I've mostly used EK-HD PETG 16mm myself, and I'm pretty sure some of the bends you've done here just aren't possible with that without deforming the tube, so I'm curious what you've used and your techniques. Thanks.


Well thanks man, I appreciate those kind words. As for the bending, most of the stuff I do is by hand and by eye. But I do occasionally use a mandrel for a 90. At times I don't feel confident doing 90s by hand. Luckily, all my bends do not deform the tubes - assuming you mean deformation of the inside diameter, like kinking tubing. That doesn't happen. I wouldn't let it lol. I measure by eye and mark the tubing with dry erase marker so that I know exactly what to do with the tube when I'm heating it up and bending.

The tubing I use is Monsoon's PETG. 3/8'x1/2"

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Your photography has come on leaps and bounds.
> 
> NIce build too.


B neg, I greatly appreciate that, man. I always gotta push myself as much as I can!


----------



## Ironsmack

What I'm currently working on







I'm close. Just took me 9+ months to get it this way ?


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> What I'm currently working on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm close. Just took me 9+ months to get it this way ?


case?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> What I'm currently working on
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm close. Just took me 9+ months to get it this way ?


"That's no moon..." :You could fit a small child in there. Jeesh.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> case?


Caselab STH10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> "That's no moon..." :You could fit a small child in there. Jeesh.


No kidding. But once I started moving my temp rig in there, it'll feel smaller.

I still have a 480 rad on the top to fit.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> "That's no moon..." :You could fit a small child in there. Jeesh.


small child? I'm pretty sure my significant other could fold herself right in there and close the door behind lol. That thing is a BEAST! Looking forward to seeing more progress. Do you have a log for it @Ironsmack?


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> small child? I'm pretty sure my significant other could fold herself right in there and close the door behind lol. That thing is a BEAST! Looking forward to seeing more progress. Do you have a log for it @Ironsmack?


Not gonna lie, I kinda want to see that.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Not gonna lie, I kinda want to see that.


That would be a interesting sight. Though, I can probably fit in there. Hmmm, I think I'm a small enough gal.









I had enough practice fitting into small places on military cargo planes to install stuff when the guys complain about the space to small for them.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> That would be a interesting sight. Though, I can probably fit in there. Hmmm, I think I'm a small enough gal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had enough practice fitting into small places on military cargo planes to install stuff when the guys complain about the space to small for them.


I better not respond. I can sense this going south in a hurry. LOL


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> What I'm currently working on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm close. Just took me 9+ months to get it this way ?


did you paint those panels? If so, what did you use to do it? It looks great.


----------



## Iceman2733

Does anyone's else doors rattle when closed at the hinge side?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> "That's no moon..." :You could fit a small child in there. Jeesh.
> 
> 
> 
> small child? I'm pretty sure my significant other could fold herself right in there and close the door behind lol. That thing is a BEAST! Looking forward to seeing more progress. Do you have a log for it @Ironsmack?
Click to expand...

Have you ever seen a tx10?










The sth10 is just over half of it ( vertically )

Hope it helps with sizing. Please note in the pic there is a pedestal attached


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> small child? I'm pretty sure my significant other could fold herself right in there and close the door behind lol. That thing is a BEAST! Looking forward to seeing more progress. Do you have a log for it @Ironsmack?


I started one. But at this point, im too lazy to keep taking pics and logging it. I just want to finish this ASAP.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> did you paint those panels? If so, what did you use to do it? It looks great.


No. I use a brushed alum vinyl.

I thought about painting it, but i dont have the place to do it. And going into this project, my main goal is achieved most of the things i want, but with minimal mods. So when (or if) i do change my mind about the case, its cheap to replace.


----------



## DarthBaggins

^And that's nothing compared to what @seross69 did with his TX lol

Also looks like I'm going to have to be a tad creative with mounting the Aqualis Pro - been using it in the M8 for so long and it looked so small in that case, but really it's a biga** res for the 303 lol. plus using the D5('S) I have is making things interesting as well - wish EK still made the 120mm brackets for the original D5's







(also I rarely use the Phenom 1055T rig I threw together for Christine)


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Well thanks man, I appreciate those kind words. As for the bending, most of the stuff I do is by hand and by eye. But I do occasionally use a mandrel for a 90. At times I don't feel confident doing 90s by hand. Luckily, all my bends do not deform the tubes - assuming you mean deformation of the inside diameter, like kinking tubing. That doesn't happen. I wouldn't let it lol. I measure by eye and mark the tubing with dry erase marker so that I know exactly what to do with the tube when I'm heating it up and bending.


How exactly are you bending the tubing as to not deform the tube's inner diameter? I was under the impression that it is not possible to maintain its diameter without using a mandrel or in the case of metal tubing, packing with sand. My next build is going to use hard tubing and learning as many techniques as possible will make things easier.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> How exactly are you bending the tubing as to not deform the tube's inner diameter? I was under the impression that it is not possible to maintain its diameter without using a mandrel or in the case of metal tubing, packing with sand. My next build is going to use hard tubing and learning as many techniques as possible will make things easier.


An insert should prevent deformation in most cases, but I think this Monsoon tubing must be pretty good, because I know with the EK tubing some of these bends aren't really possible. Maybe it's thickness of the PETG or how it's manufactured, but I'm going to have to try this Monsoon stuff sometime as it looks pretty good. You don't need mandrels for any bend... it's all do-able by hand really, as long as you heat enough of the tube (that's a common mistake, not heating the FULL radius of the bend all the way around) but they do come in useful for precise measurements when you have a second bend in a tube, drilling them in to a flat surface you can mark up easily so you get the bend exactly where you want it. Again though, this can be done with a dry erase marker and a good eye.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> How exactly are you bending the tubing as to not deform the tube's inner diameter? I was under the impression that it is not possible to maintain its diameter without using a mandrel or in the case of metal tubing, packing with sand. My next build is going to use hard tubing and learning as many techniques as possible will make things easier.


Like @atomicus said, there's an insert for the tubing while you're bending it, so that it retains it's shape inside and out throughout multiple bends. I've tried to bend without the insert and it's damn near impossible. Makes complete sense though, I just wanted to see what would happen. Heating the tubing is vital. I always heat up more than I probably need - both full circumference and length past the marks I make with dry erase marker. You'd be able to tell a difference instantly when the tubing isn't heated up fully and correctly. Yet, you'd be surprised how many hundreds of systems I've seen where you can tell the builder simply said "screw it" rather than just redoing the bend. It makes me sad honestly.


----------



## Deeptek

http://imgur.com/DpyeGzX

This is my Lian Li PC-Q37 in its current standings. I still need custom PSU cable and have some Silverstone Slim SATA cables and BQ 80mm fans on the way. The little shroud under the 240 fans is the housing for a Darkside 7.75in LED strip. I also have Silverstone PWM 15mm Slim fans under the rad in the bottom. There is about 10mm clearance under it and seems to be working fine. Tempered glass has been removed for photos.

More photos to come once the build is complete.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> How exactly are you bending the tubing as to not deform the tube's inner diameter? I was under the impression that it is not possible to maintain its diameter without using a mandrel or in the case of metal tubing, packing with sand. My next build is going to use hard tubing and learning as many techniques as possible will make things easier.


There is a guide in my signature.


----------



## GoodwinAJ

Here you go.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Do love this Cuplex Kryos Delrin block. . Hoping to finish tubing runs tomorrow/today and filling the loop for bleed and leak test.







Spoiler: Getting ready to run EK ZMT. . . Also have to paint a couple fan rings (weather and life permitting)


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Like @atomicus said, there's an insert for the tubing while you're bending it, so that it retains it's shape inside and out throughout multiple bends. I've tried to bend without the insert and it's damn near impossible. Makes complete sense though, I just wanted to see what would happen. Heating the tubing is vital. I always heat up more than I probably need - both full circumference and length past the marks I make with dry erase marker. You'd be able to tell a difference instantly when the tubing isn't heated up fully and correctly. Yet, you'd be surprised how many hundreds of systems I've seen where you can tell the builder simply said "screw it" rather than just redoing the bend. It makes me sad honestly.


This "insert" is actually called a Mandrel, which he said he didn't use some of the time, which is why I asked how he kept it from flattening in the bend. The "guide" that you bend the tubing around is called a "die". Unless of course the watercooling industry has for some reason changed the terminology for these things.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> This "insert" is actually called a Mandrel, which he said he didn't use some of the time, which is why I asked how he kept it from flattening in the bend. The "guide" that you bend the tubing around is called a "die". Unless of course the watercooling industry has for some reason changed the terminology for these things.


Might I make a personal suggestion?

The ZMT, at least in the size I have (10/16mm) is very rigid. That short run by the pump and reservoir will be very hard to disassemble without removing one of the parts from the mounts they're on. I'd suggest though it won't look as nice, skipping the 90's and making a small 180° bend or some such.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> This "insert" is actually called a Mandrel, which he said he didn't use some of the time, which is why I asked how he kept it from flattening in the bend. The "guide" that you bend the tubing around is called a "die". Unless of course the watercooling industry has for some reason changed the terminology for these things.


Yeah it was Monsoon/Boxgoods that started calling the dies Mandrels and it has stuck.

Though I have for years seen some places where the internal and external form are both called mandrels interchangeably. I assume that is where the confusion has come from.

eg.
http://shop.useful-tools.co.uk/mandrel-tube-bender-2-p.asp

Plus it seems like some people call the manual mandrel pipe bending tools and the plain pipe bending tools without mandrels by the same names so it may seem like its logical that if a tool is a pipe bender/mandrel and it only has the die and wiper that that part is called a mandrel?


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Have you ever seen a tx10?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sth10 is just over half of it ( vertically )
> 
> Hope it helps with sizing. Please note in the pic there is a pedestal attached


W**!


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Have you ever seen a tx10?
> 
> The sth10 is just over half of it ( vertically )
> 
> Hope it helps with sizing. Please note in the pic there is a pedestal attached


Oh man I missed this somehow! Please tell me that man is a midget...


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Oh man I missed this somehow! Please tell me that man is a midget...


hey 0ldChicken, did you get any problems with your Aurora coolant while cleaning inside of your parts? It looks nice


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Oh man I missed this somehow! Please tell me that man is a midget...


That man is actually using the case to store his 7 midgets.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That man is actually using the case to store his 7 midgets.


lol


----------



## kariverson

Haha it's not THAT big but it still is huge. Guy in the pic must be like 5'4 lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3a7kKKPs6J8


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> This "insert" is actually called a Mandrel, which he said he didn't use some of the time, which is why I asked how he kept it from flattening in the bend. The "guide" that you bend the tubing around is called a "die". Unless of course the watercooling industry has for some reason changed the terminology for these things.


Uhhhhh. No.

I dont think i've ever seen them called those names.

When you look at a mandrel bender, you see it's obviously used to bend the tubing. Not an insert you put into tubing to prevent kinking.

In the watercooling world, the mandrel is the guide. The insert is the silicone piece you use to prevent kinking.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> Haha it's not THAT big but it still is huge. Guy in the pic must be like 5'4 lol
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3a7kKKPs6J8


Kevin is about my height, if not taller. He might be about 6'1" or so (I'm 6'). There's a pedestal and the super large extended top cover on the one in the pic. The one in the video you linked didn't have the extended top, rather the normal top, so there's quite the difference in size for that reason only.

TX10 went EOL some time ago (2 years ago, I think). I'm not sure we'll ever produce anything that monstrous again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> This "insert" is actually called a Mandrel, which he said he didn't use some of the time, which is why I asked how he kept it from flattening in the bend. The "guide" that you bend the tubing around is called a "die". Unless of course the watercooling industry has for some reason changed the terminology for these things.
> 
> 
> 
> Uhhhhh. No.
> 
> I dont think i've ever seen them called those names.
> 
> When you look at a mandrel bender, you see it's obviously used to bend the tubing. Not an insert you put into tubing to prevent kinking.
> 
> In the watercooling world, the mandrel is the guide. The insert is the silicone piece you use to prevent kinking.
Click to expand...

Also this.

Mandrels are the tools used to bend (which is pretty much the actual definition of the word "Mandrel"), the inserts are just inserts. Typically made of silicon.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> hey 0ldChicken, did you get any problems with your Aurora coolant while cleaning inside of your parts? It looks nice


Thanks! I've ran it 3 times now and the first two times it did catch in the blocks a little bit and settled out pretty quickly. I was always able to clean all visible buildup by hand, however I have always had remaining particles in the loop after that, even after cleaning every component carefully. It seems to just want to get everywhere. Every thread and O-ring is almost a milky-white from particles

Now I put in some QDC's so I can reverse the system flow and it reintroduces a lot of settled particles especially anything that is in the fins of the blocks. I'm waiting to see how it works in the long run since it has only been about 3 months, but I'm pleased with the results so far. I made a post in the Mayhem's thread a month ago about it's progress, i'll link it below

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/14280_60#post_25705390


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> Kevin is about my height, if not taller. He might be about 6'1" or so (I'm 6'). There's a pedestal and the super large extended top cover on the one in the pic. The one in the video you linked didn't have the extended top, rather the normal top, so there's quite the difference in size for that reason only.
> 
> TX10 went EOL some time ago (2 years ago, I think). I'm not sure we'll ever produce anything that monstrous again


Damn! Good to know! Loving big ass cases! My next one will probably be from you!


----------



## Trestles126

Coming from a Offroad background you are correct die is referring to what the tube is being bent over mandrel is a insert to help with kinking with thin wall tube. In this case I'd refer to my monsoon blue parts as dies and the silicone piece as just a insert but you could call it a mandrel. Sometimes people take things to literal or they see something someone said and think it's 100 percent right and don't use common sense to figure out or decipher something someone else said. If I saw a guy say I didn't use a mandrel and just bent the tube by hand I'd assume he meant no die and just stuck the silicone in cause that's what makes sense.... gotta use ur head sometimes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> This "insert" is actually called a Mandrel, which he said he didn't use some of the time, which is why I asked how he kept it from flattening in the bend. The "guide" that you bend the tubing around is called a "die". Unless of course the watercooling industry has for some reason changed the terminology for these things.


Die and the silicone tubing


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> This "insert" is actually called a Mandrel, which he said he didn't use some of the time, which is why I asked how he kept it from flattening in the bend. The "guide" that you bend the tubing around is called a "die". Unless of course the watercooling industry has for some reason changed the terminology for these things.
> 
> 
> 
> Uhhhhh. No.
> 
> I dont think i've ever seen them called those names.
> 
> When you look at a mandrel bender, you see it's obviously used to bend the tubing. Not an insert you put into tubing to prevent kinking.
> 
> In the watercooling world, the mandrel is the guide. The insert is the silicone piece you use to prevent kinking.
Click to expand...

This!

I get that people use the term mandrel as something else. But I am old. When I was a kid growing up in the 70s an 80s the term for comfortable open footwear was "Thong" or "Thongs". Now it's used as a name for something else entirely.









Although if you think about it, Thongs split two body parts of similar nature in both cases. In my case as a kid those parts were toes.









~Ceadder


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Coming from a Offroad background you are correct die is referring to what the tube is being bent over mandrel is a insert to help with kinking with thin wall tube. In this case I'd refer to my monsoon blue parts as dies and the silicone piece as just a insert but you could call it a mandrel. Sometimes people take things to literal or they see something someone said and think it's 100 percent right and don't use common sense to figure out or decipher something someone else said. If I saw a guy say I didn't use a mandrel and just bent the tube by hand I'd assume he meant no die and just stuck the silicone in cause that's what makes sense.... gotta use ur head sometimes.


I don't get this... it's not even the definition of the word 'mandrel' which is defined as such...

1. a shaft or spindle in a lathe, to which work is fixed while being turned
2. a rod round which metal or other material is forged or shaped

Now how does one then interpret that as a silicon insert which is simply used to stop the tube deforming? The red/blue Monsoon 'mandrels' are used, as the definition states, to 'shape'. The insert does not do this, ALL it does is stop the tube deforming under heat. Also, nothing is 'fixed' to it as definition one states, nor is anything 'forged round' it as definition two states. It should appear quite obvious that the definition of the word mandrel clearly applies to what you are calling a 'die'... certainly in respect to heat bending tubes for watercooling anyway. In other lines of work from different fields I appreciate you may have a different interpretation, but the actual definition of the word is unequivocal.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Car exhaust makers use mandrel machines for bending pipes. No inserts, gradual bends till shape achieved...


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Yeah it was Monsoon/Boxgoods that started calling the dies Mandrels and it has stuck.
> 
> Though I have for years seen some places where the internal and external form are both called mandrels interchangeably. I assume that is where the confusion has come from.
> 
> eg.
> http://shop.useful-tools.co.uk/mandrel-tube-bender-2-p.asp
> 
> Plus it seems like some people call the manual mandrel pipe bending tools and the plain pipe bending tools without mandrels by the same names so it may seem like its logical that if a tool is a pipe bender/mandrel and it only has the die and wiper that that part is called a mandrel?


Ughh.... thanks Monsoon for the confusion. lol.

But yeah, one would have thought they'd retain similar names to the almost century worth of use of the terminology in mandrel pipe bending used in everything from appliances to exhaust systems to roll cage construction. I used to work in the automotive performance industry running the north american operations for Oettinger Gmbh (audi/vw tuner) so the original terminology is kind of baked in for me.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Uhhhhh. No.
> 
> I dont think i've ever seen them called those names.
> 
> When you look at a mandrel bender, you see it's obviously used to bend the tubing. Not an insert you put into tubing to prevent kinking.
> 
> In the watercooling world, the mandrel is the guide. The insert is the silicone piece you use to prevent kinking.


That's because as a previous poster said, Monsoon changed the terminology from what every other industry uses. Whether its exhaust systems, appliance supply line tubing, or safety roll cages, the part that goes into the tube is called the Mandrel. Just google "mandrel pipe bending" and look at images and you'll see what im talking about. I used to work in the automotive performance industry and many exhaust shops would make you wait in the lobby if you mis-identified a tool like that, assuming you don't have the safety knowledge to be around the machines. lol.

example:


But since it seems the watercooling business changed things, from here on i shall use the different terminology used in water cooling. Sorry for the confusion.

/edit

And like I said earlier, ive been building computers since around 1990 but this is my first time messing with watercooling, so there is still a lot left for me to learn .


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> That's because as a previous poster said, Monsoon changed the terminology from what every other industry uses. Whether its exhaust systems, appliance supply line tubing, or safety roll cages, the part that goes into the tube is called the Mandrel. Just google "mandrel pipe bending" and look at images and you'll see what im talking about. I used to work in the automotive performance industry and many exhaust shops would make you wait in the lobby if you mis-identified a tool like that, assuming you don't have the safety knowledge to be around the machines. lol.
> 
> But since it seems the watercooling business changed things, from here on i shall use the different terminology used in water cooling. Sorry for the confusion.


So Monsoon also changed the DICTIONARY definition of the word mandrel?? That's mighty impressive! They must be run by the Illuminati or something.

I think what you'll find is the industries you've worked in, and others it seems, were the ones who changed the meaning. Monsoon are using the correct terminology, or at least as close as is indicted by the true meaning defined by the Oxford English dictionary. That really can't be debated, sorry.


----------



## Trestles126

So if now you are using the definition of mandrel in the use of a lathe you're talking about a entire different piece of machinery. All I know is like I said Is if I saw a guy say " I didn't use a manderal" I would assume he meant the monsoon piece used to bend the tube precisely I would never assume he meant the silicone tube. I have common sense I don't look up google definitions. That was my point. In roll cage construction and chromoly tube bending you buy dies for your tube bender weather they be 1"/1.25"/1.5" you buy dies which look exactly what like monsoon provides.

Either way my post was more about common sense. Don't care what anyone calls them.....





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I don't get this... it's not even the definition of the word 'mandrel' which is defined as such...
> 
> 1. a shaft or spindle in a lathe, to which work is fixed while being turned
> 2. a rod round which metal or other material is forged or shaped
> 
> Now how does one then interpret that as a silicon insert which is simply used to stop the tube deforming? The red/blue Monsoon 'mandrels' are used, as the definition states, to 'shape'. The insert does not do this, ALL it does is stop the tube deforming under heat. Also, nothing is 'fixed' to it as definition one states, nor is anything 'forged round' it as definition two states. It should appear quite obvious that the definition of the word mandrel clearly applies to what you are calling a 'die'... certainly in respect to heat bending tubes for watercooling anyway. In other lines of work from different fields I appreciate you may have a different interpretation, but the actual definition of the word is unequivocal.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> So Monsoon also changed the DICTIONARY definition of the word mandrel?? That's mighty impressive! They must be run by the Illuminati or something.


So i come on and concede that I was incorrect due to the watercooling terms being different from every other industry out there and you respond with this smartass remark?

I don't care what the dictionary says. Your argument is as bad as people who correct others grammar or spelling to show they have a more valid viewpoint. You sound like an academic trying to tell someone in the real world how something should be done when they've never actually done it themselves. There are so many terms the real world uses that may not mesh with a dictionary.

Quote:


> I don't get this... it's not even the definition of the word 'mandrel' which is defined as such...
> 
> 1. a shaft or spindle in a lathe, to which work is fixed while being turned
> 2. a rod round which metal or other material is forged or shaped


Thats because the that definition is not referring to a pipe bending mandrel. They are talking about lathe mandrels used for completely different purposes.

These are lathe mandrels:



And another item called a mandrel is found in your Dremel Rotary tool set.



LIKE I SAID EARLIER... now that i understand the watercooling industry decided to change some of the terminology used in many other industries, I will use that terminology from now on. I'm done arguing with people who clearly haven't left their parents basement.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> So if now you are using the definition of mandrel in the use of a lathe you're talking about a entire different piece of machinery. All I know is like I said Is if I saw a guy say " I didn't use a manderal" I would assume he meant the monsoon piece used to bend the tube precisely I would never assume he meant the silicone tube. I have common sense I don't look up google definitions. That was my point. In roll cage construction and chromoly tube bending you buy dies for your tube bender weather they be 1"/1.25"/1.5" you buy dies which look exactly what like monsoon provides.
> 
> Either way my post was more about common sense. Don't care what anyone calls them.....


Thank you.

btw... i'm a Long Beach native as well.


----------



## Trestles126

Lathe mandrels used in lathes as in the mandrel holds the piece you are spinning and you adjust to make precise cuts. my friend owns a old 1960s hand lathe that he makes rod ends and other parts with... mandrel and mandrel two different applications still not a die


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually, on the Mandrel issue for the final time(in my case) the Exhaust "Mandrel" is technically the same as a Computer Hardline "Mandrel", as it is used to form the material to the desired bend. Difference is one is an internal "mandrel" and the other is an external "mandrel".

This was my "thong" point. Just because it's used differently doesn't mean that either terminology is wrong. People should simply accept that the english language is an adaptive language and that there are a bunch of words that have more than one descriptive adaptations for a single word. Being unable to adapt to new phrases and terminologies(even terminologies using an existing word) is rather OCD(I suffer from OCD, which I call something else as well) imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Beat me to it Andrew... just like the safety guys that come on job sites that say you don't know how to do ur job but the only experience they have is from a text book


----------



## Trestles126

Close to my original point as well ceader use common sense mandrel die blah blah... i knew right away how the guy bent his tubes and wasn't confused.... more cooling pics please


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> So if now you are using the definition of mandrel in the use of a lathe you're talking about a entire different piece of machinery. All I know is like I said Is if I saw a guy say " I didn't use a manderal" I would assume he meant the monsoon piece used to bend the tube precisely I would never assume he meant the silicone tube. I have common sense I don't look up google definitions. That was my point. In roll cage construction and chromoly tube bending you buy dies for your tube bender weather they be 1"/1.25"/1.5" you buy dies which look exactly what like monsoon provides.
> 
> Either way my post was more about common sense. Don't care what anyone calls them.....


It's not common sense, it's learned terminology. You're applying what you've learned from others to arrive at your interpretation of the word. That in no way, shape or form alters the actual definition of that word.

Quite simply, mandrel has a definition dating back to the 16th century. A mandrel as sold by Monsoon far more closely meets the definition of that word than a silicon insert does... which doesn't even come close. What you think or have learned, even if thousands of other people also believe it, doesn't make it so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> So i come on and concede that I was incorrect due to the watercooling terms being different from every other industry out there and you respond with this smartass remark?
> 
> I don't care what the dictionary says. Your argument is as bad as people who correct others grammar or spelling to show they have a more valid viewpoint. You sound like an academic trying to tell someone in the real world how something should be done when they've never actually done it themselves. There are so many terms the real world uses that may not mesh with a dictionary.
> 
> Thats because the that definition is not referring to a pipe bending mandrel. They are talking about lathe mandrels used for completely different purposes.
> 
> These are lathe mandrels:
> 
> And another item called a mandrel is found in your Dremel Rotary tool set.
> 
> LIKE I SAID EARLIER... now that i understand the watercooling industry decided to change some of the terminology used in many other industries, I will use that terminology from now on. I'm done arguing with people who clearly haven't left their parents basement.


Ok so I'm either an academic or have never left my parents basement. I can't be both so some consistency to your insults would be a start.









First off, grammar and spelling is not the same as the definition of a word, nor does this have anything to do with a viewpoint. It's about meaning, and the entire function of the 'mandrels' used in watercooling to bend pipe are encapsulated by that words definition.

I do concede that if you knew NOTHING about watercooling it would be easy to get confused, given the examples for lathes etc. that you provide, but there can be NO doubt that the mandrels used in watercooling for tube bending 100% meet the dictionary definition of that word. The silicon insert does not. You seem to be suggesting that such definitions aren't relevant. The watercooling industry changed nothing, they called it what it was supposed to be called.


----------



## Trestles126

For for the sake of getting this thread on track you're right I'm wrong cheers ?


----------



## MattBaneLM

Bottom line is... use flexible tubing so you can muck around more and go ice bucket too







haha


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Have you ever seen a tx10?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sth10 is just over half of it ( vertically )
> 
> Hope it helps with sizing. Please note in the pic there is a pedestal attached
> 
> 
> 
> W**!
Click to expand...

i also love mine !!!!!!!!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Have you ever seen a tx10?
> 
> The sth10 is just over half of it ( vertically )
> 
> Hope it helps with sizing. Please note in the pic there is a pedestal attached
> 
> 
> 
> Oh man I missed this somehow! Please tell me that man is a midget...
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kariverson*
> 
> Haha it's not THAT big but it still is huge. Guy in the pic must be like 5'4 lol
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3a7kKKPs6J8
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin is about my height, if not taller. He might be about 6'1" or so (I'm 6'). There's a pedestal and the super large extended top cover on the one in the pic. The one in the video you linked didn't have the extended top, rather the normal top, so there's quite the difference in size for that reason only.
> 
> TX10 went EOL some time ago (2 years ago, I think). I'm not sure we'll ever produce anything that monstrous again.
Click to expand...

according to the posts he is 6ft. and like i said i love my TX10

the STH10 is basically half { again vertically} it is actually just larger then half .............. but this case is such a thing of beauty, i would be willing to bet that i got the last one ...tri tone !!!! 100LBS of pure AL {according to the shipping label }
case !!!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> Kevin is about my height, if not taller. He might be about 6'1" or so (I'm 6'). There's a pedestal and the super large extended top cover on the one in the pic. The one in the video you linked didn't have the extended top, rather the normal top, so there's quite the difference in size for that reason only.
> 
> TX10 went EOL some time ago (2 years ago, I think). I'm not sure we'll ever produce anything that monstrous again.
> Also this.
> 
> Mandrels are the tools used to bend (which is pretty much the actual definition of the word "Mandrel"), the inserts are just inserts. Typically made of silicon.


Actually,he is right,the mandrel is the insert,the tool you bend round is either a die or a former. We use a bastardized form of 'slide and die' or draw bending but without the slide component


----------



## Ironsmack

Alright, so here's the rig in a temp state.



Things i need to do:

- sleeve the GPU cables
- Install the AQ6 by the window
- Re crimp the PWM cable for the GPU pump
- Finish the vinyl
- fix the cable

But as of now, she's running and doing well.

Although, im not too happy that my 5930k (1.38 volts) is hovering at 60 C when playing BF1. Have to play around with the voltages.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Alright, so here's the rig in a temp state.
> 
> 
> 
> Things i need to do:
> 
> - sleeve the GPU cables
> - Install the AQ6 by the window
> - Re crimp the PWM cable for the GPU pump
> - Finish the vinyl
> - fix the cable
> 
> But as of now, she's running and doing well.
> 
> Although, im not too happy that my 5930k (1.38 volts) is hovering at 60 C when playing BF1. Have to play around with the voltages.


Genuine question

Are the two pumps needed or just wanted?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> Genuine question
> 
> Are the two pumps needed or just wanted?


Just wanted.

I was running a MCP35x2 before. But i decided im going all out this time around.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Need to swap out a black 90 adapter at work tomorrow, need a black nickel vs the black I got not paying attention. But then I can fill/leak test etc


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> Car exhaust makers use mandrel machines for bending pipes. No inserts, gradual bends till shape achieved...


Metal are a lot easier to bend, metal is much more flexible than people think, as long as you do it slowly, it will stretch without cracking, no heating required


----------



## DarthBaggins

It lives, will finish up the final touches (cleaning finger prints and real camera shots). . just going to enjoy it a bit. .


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I don't get this... it's not even the definition of the word 'mandrel' which is defined as such...
> 
> 1. a shaft or spindle in a lathe, to which work is fixed while being turned
> 2. a rod round which metal or other material is forged or shaped
> 
> Now how does one then interpret that as a silicon insert which is simply used to stop the tube deforming? The red/blue Monsoon 'mandrels' are used, as the definition states, to 'shape'. The insert does not do this, ALL it does is stop the tube deforming under heat. Also, nothing is 'fixed' to it as definition one states, nor is anything 'forged round' it as definition two states. It should appear quite obvious that the definition of the word mandrel clearly applies to what you are calling a 'die'... certainly in respect to heat bending tubes for watercooling anyway. In other lines of work from different fields I appreciate you may have a different interpretation, but the actual definition of the word is unequivocal.


I don't read that definition the same way that you appear to.
From the Merriam Webster definition also:
a metal bar that serves as a core around which material (as metal) may be cast, molded, forged, bent, or otherwise shaped.

The silicon tube we use is a "round rod" around which (the plastic tube is around the silicon) the material is shaped, and *over* a die to get the correct angles etc. I don't see a way that a die fits that narrow definition.

As has been said though our language is adaptive and it seems as though in many places external forms are now referred to as mandrels. The poster was confused by the terminology change but he certainly wasn't incorrect.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I don't read that definition the same way that you appear to.
> From the Merriam Webster definition also:
> a metal bar that serves as a core around which material (as metal) may be cast, molded, forged, bent, or otherwise shaped.
> 
> The silicon tube we use is a "round rod" around which (the plastic tube is around the silicon) the material is shaped, and *over* a die to get the correct angles etc. I don't see a way that a die fits that narrow definition.
> 
> As has been said though our language is adaptive and it seems as though in many places external forms are now referred to as mandrels. The poster was confused by the terminology change but he certainly wasn't incorrect.


I do hate to be a stickler, but the OED trumps Merriam Webster... it is considered the authoritative historical dictionary of the English language and by far the best and most accurate. No other English dictionary compares to it. That said, I do see where you are coming from, and this could simply be one of those British/American words that have been twisted over the centuries and its true meaning left somewhat altered (most likely in America it would seem, but that's common and there have been many such examples). I'm not saying that's wrong, it's just what happens. Obviously based on the definition you have provided and the actual objects called mandrels which meet that definition, I don't dispute it... they haven't been made up, so at some point in history, they started being called as such. Still, based on the OED definition and its indicated origins from the 16th century (before America was even a country, although I know they weren't watercooling PCs in the 1500s ha!), the watercooling ones have not been named incorrectly. That said, there is certainly room in the world for two different things called mandrels.


----------



## Dave600

*Hello everyone







*

I'm new to this thread and I have a little question.
I want to do a build log of my system in a few weeks, but before i can do that I have to send my motherboard back (2 Ram-slots don't work) and I need a little bit of help from you guys








In the picture below you can see that I'm using 2 120mm Rad's instead of 1 240 at the top of my case. That's because I used to have the 120's in the front (my case doesn't support a 240 in the front but 2 120's) and now with a bit of modding I can now use the 240 in the front and i want to use the 2 120's at the top. But how do I connect them??







I thought about 2 L fittings and in between 1 extension and one double nippel. Does anyone know if that works? Or is it possible to do a hardline bend to connect them? (I suck at bending







)

These are:
120mm XSPC Radiators;
EK HDC Compression fittings;
16/13mm Alphacool Hardtube (PETG)

Thank you for all your answers/ tips:thumb:



I forgot to say that the tube that comes out of the left fitting will be removed, but I wanted to at least use one of the radiators so I can use the pc for a while


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> *Hello everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> i want to use the 2 120's at the top. But how do I connect them?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic


Can you post a picture that show your entire loop, there might just be a clever way to rout them without having to resort to specialized fittings.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> *Hello everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> I'm new to this thread and I have a little question.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I want to do a build log of my system in a few weeks, but before i can do that I have to send my motherboard back (2 Ram-slots don't work) and I need a little bit of help from you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture below you can see that I'm using 2 120mm Rad's instead of 1 240 at the top of my case. That's because I used to have the 120's in the front (my case doesn't support a 240 in the front but 2 120's) and now with a bit of modding I can now use the 240 in the front and i want to use the 2 120's at the top. But how do I connect them??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about 2 L fittings and in between 1 extension and one double nippel. Does anyone know if that works? Or is it possible to do a hardline bend to connect them? (I suck at bending
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> These are:
> 120mm XSPC Radiators;
> EK HDC Compression fittings;
> 16/13mm Alphacool Hardtube (PETG)
> 
> Thank you for all your answers/ tips:thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to say that the tube that comes out of the left fitting will be removed, but I wanted to at least use one of the radiators so I can use the pc for a while


Can't you just turn one of the 120mm Rads a different way to give you more space between the fittings?

TCO


----------



## Lee0

That 980 pic!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can't you just turn one of the 120mm Rads a different way to give you more space between the fittings?
> 
> TCO


But it would be much cooler and sleeker to make a "bridge" with fittings. However it will probably cost more and be more prone to leaks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> That 980 pic!
> But it would be much cooler and sleeker to make a "bridge" with fittings. However it will probably cost more and be more prone to leaks.


It might be possible with short 90 degree fittings, but then they would have to line up correct after proper tightening since they aren't rotary.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-90-degree-ig-1-4-adapter-deluxe-white.html

TCO


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Can't you just turn one of the 120mm Rads a different way to give you more space between the fittings?
> 
> TCO


Thank you for the answer









Unfortunately its impossible to turn the radiator, because on the left side, the exhaust fan is in the way and on the right side I mounted my hdd and I cant drill anymore holes in my case ^^


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Can you post a picture that show your entire loop, there might just be a clever way to rout them without having to resort to specialized fittings.


Here is a picture of the loop, i though about connecting the right outlet of the left rad with the right outlet of the right one. But I'd need 4 90degree fittings then, and it would not really fit because the tube from the cpu to the res would be in the way :/ I want this system to look as good as possible, Ill sleeve the cables and use mayhems xt1 extreme white pastel with red die as well, so I dont want to have something in my system what I'm not really happy about


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It might be possible with short 90 degree fittings, but then they would have to line up correct after proper tightening since they aren't rotary.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-90-degree-ig-1-4-adapter-deluxe-white.html
> 
> TCO


I thought about that too, but there are two major issues: They are not rotary and I cant buy them anywhere in germany without having to pay 500€ for shipping -_-


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> Here is a picture of the loop, i though about connecting the right outlet of the left rad with the right outlet of the right one. But I'd need 4 90degree fittings then, and it would not really fit because the tube from the cpu to the res would be in the way :/ I want this system to look as good as possible, Ill sleeve the cables and use mayhems xt1 extreme white pastel with red die as well, so I dont want to have something in my system what I'm not really happy about


Pastel extreme and xt1 are different things. Also they both contain ethylene glycol which is known to be questionable (at best) with Petg tubing just so you know. I'd stick with regular Pastel instead









Also is there any way you can rotate the CPU block 90° and go from rad to CPU block to rad?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> Here is a picture of the loop, i though about connecting the right outlet of the left rad with the right outlet of the right one. But I'd need 4 90degree fittings then, and it would not really fit because the tube from the cpu to the res would be in the way :/ I want this system to look as good as possible, Ill sleeve the cables and use mayhems xt1 extreme white pastel with red die as well, so I dont want to have something in my system what I'm not really happy about


The Top Fitting of the CPU needs to connect to the closest fitting of the radiator that is not hooked up in this picutre. Then the outlet of the radiator to the res. Loop complete.

TCO


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> Here is a picture of the loop, i though about connecting the right outlet of the left rad with the right outlet of the right one. But I'd need 4 90degree fittings then, and it would not really fit because the tube from the cpu to the res would be in the way :/ I want this system to look as good as possible, Ill sleeve the cables and use mayhems xt1 extreme white pastel with red die as well, so I dont want to have something in my system what I'm not really happy about


Just go from the CPU to the second 120mm rad instead of the reservoir, then hook up the radiator to the reservoir instead, problem solved.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Just go from the CPU to the second 120mm rad instead of the reservoir, then hook up the radiator to the reservoir instead, problem solved.


Also, If you rotate the Block Clockwise 90degrees It would still look excellent.

TCO


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Also, If you rotate the Block Clockwise 90degrees It would still look excellent.


Second that


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Second that




TCO


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Pastel extreme and xt1 are different things. Also they both contain ethylene glycol which is known to be questionable (at best) with Petg tubing just so you know. I'd stick with regular Pastel instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also is there any way you can rotate the CPU block 90° and go from rad to CPU block to rad?


Ups, I didnt remember the correct name but thank you for the advice, ill remember that for the future








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Just go from the CPU to the second 120mm rad instead of the reservoir, then hook up the radiator to the reservoir instead, problem solved.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Top Fitting of the CPU needs to connect to the closest fitting of the radiator that is not hooked up in this picutre. Then the outlet of the radiator to the res. Loop complete.
> 
> TCO


I also thought about that. If it doesn't affect the cooling temperatures (shouldnt the radators always be before the res?) I'm probably going to fo that. BTW, as I'm sending my mobo back on monday I am abel to rotate the block.


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


xD
But thank you for the answer, I appreciate that


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> xD
> But thank you for the answer, I appreciate that


Rads before or after the res wont matter. The fliud temp will equalize no matter what.

TCO


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Rads before or after the res wont matter. The fliud temp will equalize no matter what.
> 
> TCO


Ok that solved my problem. Thanks to everyone who answered, Ill post some pictures of the 'final' build (its a never ending project) as soon as I can. Im also going to do a build log when I have enough time for that, as I'm only 14 years old and at the time I'm writing this i should learn for school -_-


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> Ok that solved my problem. Thanks to everyone who answered, Ill post some pictures of the 'final' build (its a never ending project) as soon as I can. Im also going to do a build log when I have enough time for that, as I'm only 14 years old and at the time I'm writing this i should learn for school -_-


Building a custom loop at 14yo is pretty impressive, and with hard tubing nonetheless.









And fyi, try not to double post, you can use the edit button instead.


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Building a custom loop at 14yo is pretty impressive, and with hard tubing nonetheless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And fyi, try not to double post, you can use the edit button instead.


Sorry about the duble post :/
Actually its not that hard building a pc on your own if you like and enjoy what you're doing and like any hobby if you want to get good at it, you gotta practice, so why dont get started as early as possible? I feel like the hardest part of building a (watercooled) is to 1. get enough money to buy all of the hardware + wc stuff and 2. to actually not damage something. I guess after you build a few pc's it gets easier but I'm a bit scared of touching my gpu backplate, I always get sweaty hands when I touch it/ dismount it. Why? I dont have a clue xD
As 0ld Chicken already said, mayhems xt1 and pastel extreme might not be the right choice for my build, so what pastel should I use? I heared about mayhems pre mixed white pastel truned brown after a few weeks in some german froums. Do you guys had any similar experience? I want to mix myself my own red color, so buying a pre mixed red pastel is not a choice


----------



## emsj86

Just some work on a snowy day. Polished block (only did a fast 10 minute total polish and sandy).


----------



## wizardbro

Anyone seen these EVGA fans from JayZ's new video?

Guessing they're made to suck more air from the sides and have more centered air going through the rads.

Really interested in these because my fans kinda have to suck air from the sides in my build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Anyone seen these EVGA fans from JayZ's new video?
> 
> Guessing they're made to suck more air from the sides and have more centered air going through the rads.
> 
> Really interested in these because my fans kinda have to suck air from the sides in my build.


Yeah I saw those. Pretty interesting design. I will wait til I see how they stack up against GTs, if they are even available outside of EVGA all in one solutions.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Anyone seen these EVGA fans from JayZ's new video?
> 
> Guessing they're made to suck more air from the sides and have more centered air going through the rads.
> 
> Really interested in these because my fans kinda have to suck air from the sides in my build.


If they make them in white, we can talk.

TCO


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Kida surprised we dont see many ducted fans. Where the tops of the blades are connected. You see them in some industrial applications and RC plane propellers.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Kida surprised we dont see many ducted fans. Where the tops of the blades are connected. You see them in some industrial applications and RC plane propellers.


The tops of the blades usually aren't connected on ducted fans though?

But I assume you're referring to fans like the NB eloops?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Building a custom loop at 14yo is pretty impressive, and with hard tubing nonetheless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And fyi, try not to double post, you can use the edit button instead.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the duble post :/
> Actually its not that hard building a pc on your own if you like and enjoy what you're doing and like any hobby if you want to get good at it, you gotta practice, so why dont get started as early as possible? I feel like the hardest part of building a (watercooled) is to 1. get enough money to buy all of the hardware + wc stuff and 2. to actually not damage something. I guess after you build a few pc's it gets easier but I'm a bit scared of touching my gpu backplate, I always get sweaty hands when I touch it/ dismount it. Why? I dont have a clue xD
> As 0ld Chicken already said, mayhems xt1 and pastel extreme might not be the right choice for my build, so what pastel should I use? I heared about mayhems pre mixed white pastel truned brown after a few weeks in some german froums. Do you guys had any similar experience? I want to mix myself my own red color, so buying a pre mixed red pastel is not a choice
Click to expand...

Pastel is sensitive to ph and contaminants more than other fluids. I always suggest a blitz pro kit before using pastel. The part one will clean all the flux out of your rads and part 2 will neutralize and clean everything out. If you don't want to put that much effort/money into cleaning, go for x1 (not xt-1), its cheaper and not as sensitive as the pastel.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The tops of the blades usually aren't connected on ducted fans though?
> 
> But I assume you're referring to fans like the NB eloops?


Yeah, like the eloops. The odd evga design just had me thinking.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Temper Tantrum is done until I can get a block for the 970 SSC or upgrade to Vega/1080Ti:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Kida surprised we dont see many ducted fans. Where the tops of the blades are connected. You see them in some industrial applications and RC plane propellers.


The stabilizing ring is more prevalent with high RPM fans as it stops the blades deforming at speed. You can have nearly 1mm of extra blade length at full speed depending on the blade root design and material.


----------



## Bun-ny

Hi Dave600,

how about using one of these ........

https://www.amazon.com/Koolance-CNT-MEAU-Sliding-180-Degree-Connector/dp/B0050DEXDC

Steve


----------



## fast_fate

A little more of that Copper Love








This time going in/out of an Aquaero 5 water block


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Pastel is sensitive to ph and contaminants more than other fluids. I always suggest a blitz pro kit before using pastel. The part one will clean all the flux out of your rads and part 2 will neutralize and clean everything out. If you don't want to put that much effort/money into cleaning, go for x1 (not xt-1), its cheaper and not as sensitive as the pastel.


Ok 40 bucks for cleaning is a little bit too much for me







So PETG is an absolute No-Go if you want to use pastel fluid ?? Thermaltake C1000 wouldn't work either i guess?! It contains <20% ethylene glycol so I probably won't be able to use it right? Do you have any recommendations for a non-see through coolant for petg?

Best regards


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> Ok 40 bucks for cleaning is a little bit too much for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So PETG is an absolute No-Go if you want to use pastel fluid ?? Thermaltake C1000 wouldn't work either i guess?! It contains <20% ethylene glycol so I probably won't be able to use it right? Do you have any recommendations for a non-see through coolant for petg?
> 
> Best regards


Pastel is fine. It's the Pastel Extreme White that is EG. The regular Pastels are Glycerin based and should have no issues what so ever with petg

http://support.mayhems.net/pages/mayhems-msds-sds-sheets
http://mayhems.net/sds/pastel/extreme/pastel_extreme_100_ml_sds.pdf
http://mayhems.net/sds/pastel/250ml/pastel_white_250_ml_sds.pdf

edit: i've been talking with Mayhem's about the compatibility of EG and PETG tubing. They said they have no knowledge of issues or incompatibilities with EG coolants and PETG but they would look into doing some in house testing to help clear things up. For now it's best to stick with non-EG mixtures while using PETG


----------



## Squashie

Finally made the step up to rigid tubing. Build is not yet finished but its definetly getting there.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Still want to do my own cables (notice the pci-e cables XD) And i will make a new sticker for the PSU matching the build with yellow instead of blue.


----------



## TainePC

Nzxt h440 with xspc raystorm and razer blocks. Xspc photon 270 tube res with ek 16mm petg tubing and fittings. It's running xspc UV blue ec6 coolant.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TainePC*
> 
> Nzxt h440 with xspc raystorm and razer blocks. Xspc photon 270 tube res with ek 16mm petg tubing and fittings. It's running xspc UV blue ec6 coolant.


Take the side panel off lol... just so we can actually see it.


----------



## TainePC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Take the side panel off lol... just so we can actually see it.


Haha sorry not an option the panel literally took 15 minutes to install the combination of the dremel's heat and the 4mm glass make it a nightmare lol. The rails it slides on got bent







But will take one at night with a DSLR then there shouldn't be so much glare.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TainePC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Take the side panel off lol... just so we can actually see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha sorry not an option the panel literally took 15 minutes to install the combination of the dremel's heat and the 4mm glass make it a nightmare lol. The rails it slides on got bent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But will take one at night with a DSLR then there shouldn't be so much glare.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure he meant without the door in place.














lol

~Ceadder


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TainePC*
> 
> Haha sorry not an option the panel literally took 15 minutes to install the combination of the dremel's heat and the 4mm glass make it a nightmare lol. The rails it slides on got bent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But will take one at night with a DSLR then there shouldn't be so much glare.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure he meant without the door in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Yes, that's what I mean... unless, hang on... are you saying in building this case you have made it physically impossible to remove the side panel, so you have essentially created a tomb for your PC??


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TainePC*
> 
> Haha sorry not an option the panel literally took 15 minutes to install the combination of the dremel's heat and the 4mm glass make it a nightmare lol. The rails it slides on got bent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But will take one at night with a DSLR then there shouldn't be so much glare.


Got a cheap pair of polarized sunglasses nearby? Sometimes shooting the photo through a pair of polarized sunglasses can work - it's a common trick saltwater reefers use when taking shots of their tanks.

Use a cheap pair though so that way if you scratch them it isn't the end of the world.

Edit: it sounds silly, but saltwater reef tanks have insanely bright lights on them, and glare on the glass can get pretty bad (or glare from the lights in general), but for a number of reefers it's worked and allowed them to show off their corals.


----------



## emsj86

Wait I never heard of pastel extreme being bad for Peth tubing. Can someone explain or
Maybe some proof.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Wait I never heard of pastel extreme being bad for Peth tubing. Can someone explain or
> Maybe some proof.


PETG is made with Ethylene Glycol. Using an EG coolant would be tantamount to putting sugar water through a sugar straw.









Although not break down as fast, the end result would be contrary to the aim of watercooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## TainePC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Got a cheap pair of polarized sunglasses nearby? Sometimes shooting the photo through a pair of polarized sunglasses can work - it's a common trick saltwater reefers use when taking shots of their tanks.
> 
> Use a cheap pair though so that way if you scratch them it isn't the end of the world.
> 
> Edit: it sounds silly, but saltwater reef tanks have insanely bright lights on them, and glare on the glass can get pretty bad (or glare from the lights in general), but for a number of reefers it's worked and allowed them to show off their corals.


Ok will definitely try tomorrow









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Yes, that's what I mean... unless, hang on... are you saying in building this case you have made it physically impossible to remove the side panel, so you have essentially created a tomb for your PC??


Yes unfortunately when i used the Dremel the heat from it made the flimsy side panel rails ( you know the things on the panel that slide across the case to keep it snug) got a bit deformed. this combined with the 4mm glass means the panel is heavy and doesnt fit properly







now to remove you have to put onto a mattress or you might crack the glass


----------



## TainePC

{deleted}


----------



## AresTheGod

Hey guys,
I'm actually re-building my PC with a watercooling. I actually got one 360 EK XE and one 480 EK XE, a 980 Ti w/ waterblock, a 6700k w/ water block, one XSPC Photon 270 and one pump, in one SM8.
Few weeks before I actually started to rebuild I made a plan of my bends, but then I looked at a lot of build (like the Snif one that just got posted) and they always seem to surpass each other beauty, so I don't know what to do anymore... Would you have any idea of bends ? Here are my actual 2 ideas : http://imgur.com/a/afMEo
Also tried to make bends with the new Alphacool Eisrohr 16mm OD with the Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert for ID 13mm and it seemed to fit a little bit loosely and when I actually tried to bend it, it didn't look quite right... Did I make a mistake (like to/not enough hot?) or is there some known issues with bending these tubes?


----------



## Squashie

Hi Ares, do you have a plan for filling the reservoir, seeing you go from CPU to top of reservoir. Are you able to get the 360s IN/OUT at the top instead of at the bottom? Easier to avoid trapped air this way. Guess i gave you more questions than answers XD


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I'm actually re-building my PC with a watercooling. I actually got one 360 EK XE and one 480 EK XE, a 980 Ti w/ waterblock, a 6700k w/ water block, one XSPC Photon 270 and one pump, in one SM8.
> Few weeks before I actually started to rebuild I made a plan of my bends, but then I looked at a lot of build (like the Snif one that just got posted) and they always seem to surpass each other beauty, so I don't know what to do anymore... Would you have any idea of bends ? Here are my actual 2 ideas : http://imgur.com/a/afMEo
> Also tried to make bends with the new Alphacool Eisrohr 16mm OD with the Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert for ID 13mm and it seemed to fit a little bit loosely and when I actually tried to bend it, it didn't look quite right... Did I make a mistake (like to/not enough hot?) or is there some known issues with bending these tubes?


Parallel all day! Love the Look of parallel if possible over serial.

TCO


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Hi Ares, do you have a plan for filling the reservoir, seeing you go from CPU to top of reservoir. Are you able to get the 360s IN/OUT at the top instead of at the bottom? Easier to avoid trapped air this way. Guess i gave you more questions than answers XD


I'm not sure about it but I mounted the reservoir reversed so I can have 3 ports in the top and a centred port in the bottom for the pump (Had to buy an adapter for fill port to G1/4) so I this it solves the problem doesn't it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Parallel all day! Love the Look of parallel if possible over serial.
> 
> TCO


Yeah, both are good but when I saw that, it looked so much beautiful...


----------



## Squashie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> I'm not sure about it but I mounted the reservoir reversed so I can have 3 ports in the top and a centred port in the bottom for the pump (Had to buy an adapter for fill port to G1/4) so I this it solves the problem doesn't it?
> Yeah, both are good but when I saw that, it looked so much beautiful...


Didnt think of that, smrt


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> I'm not sure about it but I mounted the reservoir reversed so I can have 3 ports in the top and a centred port in the bottom for the pump (Had to buy an adapter for fill port to G1/4) so I this it solves the problem doesn't it?
> Yeah, both are good but when I saw that, it looked so much beautiful...


Nice







. Is the reversed reservoir causing any complications when you try to get rid of the air bubbles?


----------



## looniam

i'll just leave this here:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i'll just leave this here:


Lmao on the RGB lights. .


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Is the reversed reservoir causing any complications when you try to get rid of the air bubbles?


I can't say I'm sure 100% but I think it doesn't make any problems
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Didnt think of that, smrt


Ehehe.
Must admit that I got the idea when I actually had my res in my hand









By the way do you have any idea about the bend on the tube on the one that goes from the 360 rad to the GPU?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Heres my setup in my new Core X71 i still have a few things to buy im going to be getting white pcie wires and a 1070 or 1080 with taxes.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i'll just leave this here:


while i like daz shop and the fact he brought back GTs. he is wrong on ALL points. or maybe canada is just outta times .... iirc he has always hated on1/2 '' tubing.

moreover all of his statements is purely subjective and purely fashion which is highly subjective to local life........


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> while i like daz shop and the fact he brought back GTs. he is wrong on ALL points. or maybe canada is just outta times .... iirc he has always hated on1/2 '' tubing.
> 
> moreover all of his statements is purely subjective and purely fashion which is highly subjective to local life........


Daz is right about the dearth of usage of 1/2" x 3/4" soft tubing actually, even PPCs and ModMyMods told me the same thing. Ditto Aquatuning and OcUK. Five large vendors can't be all wrong, can they?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Daz is right about the dearth of usage of 1/2" x 3/4" soft tubing actually, even PPCs and ModMyMods told me the same thing. Ditto Aquatuning and OcUK. Five large vendors can't be all wrong, can they?


My guess is that before hard tubing really became a thing, those larger tube sizes were considered the "top of the line" even though it was just more inconvenient and expensive with no performance benefit.

Now with hard tubing actually taking that "top of the line" posistion and actually having quite a few good features, there's really no reason for the large soft tubing to exist.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> My guess is that before hard tubing really became a thing, those larger tube sizes were considered the "top of the line" even though it was just more inconvenient and expensive with no performance benefit.
> 
> Now with hard tubing actually taking that "top of the line" posistion and actually having quite a few good features, there's really no reason for the large soft tubing to exist.


This exactly, with a lot of people going for the "bigger is better" thinking. I fell into this myself although I got it because anything smaller looked weird in the 900D I had initially. With cases and builds getting smaller, the more manageable sizes that don't kink easily are getting popular. It also helps that the smaller tubing and fittings cost less too.


----------



## Fyrwulf

You don't mix glycol based fluids and glycol based plastics, your tubing _will_ melt.


----------



## Ceadderman

The larger tubing wasn't better in performance. It simply looked better. That's why I went with 3/4" tubing when I first started. Now I am on 5/8" hardline tubing and that is better simply for the plasticizer reason.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far 5/8" (16mm) OD ZMT has become my favorite tubing. But eventually I do plan on swapping back over to 5/8" (16mm) copper tubing once I can upgrade gpu's and don't plan on swapping out my components as often as I have this past year


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> while i like daz shop and the fact he brought back GTs. he is wrong on ALL points. or maybe canada is just outta times .... iirc he has always hated on1/2 '' tubing.
> 
> moreover all of his statements is purely subjective and purely fashion which is highly subjective to local life........
> 
> 
> 
> Daz is right about the dearth of usage of 1/2" x 3/4" soft tubing actually, even PPCs and ModMyMods told me the same thing. Ditto Aquatuning and OcUK. Five large vendors can't be all wrong, can they?
Click to expand...

First I said it is an opinion aka fashion.

Second there is a reason to use larger tubing, *most* don't need to. But larger loops will benefit from then, by larger I would be willing to bet that 1-3% of builds it helped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Daz is right about the dearth of usage of 1/2" x 3/4" soft tubing actually, even PPCs and ModMyMods told me the same thing. Ditto Aquatuning and OcUK. Five large vendors can't be all wrong, can they?
> 
> 
> 
> My guess is that before hard tubing really became a thing, those larger tube sizes were considered the "top of the line" even though it was just more inconvenient and expensive with no performance benefit.
> 
> Now with hard tubing actually taking that "top of the line" posistion and actually having quite a few good features, there's really no reason for the large soft tubing to exist.
Click to expand...

I'll keep mine....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The larger tubing wasn't better in performance. It simply looked better. That's why I went with 3/4" tubing when I first started. Now I am on 5/8" hardline tubing and that is better simply for the plasticizer reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


agreed but I still like mine


----------



## LiquidHaus

I had always went with 3/8x5/8. How could you not? The sidewalls were thicker than any other size! No kinking


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Daz is right about the dearth of usage of 1/2" x 3/4" soft tubing actually, even PPCs and ModMyMods told me the same thing. Ditto Aquatuning and OcUK. Five large vendors can't be all wrong, can they?


I use 1/2 3/4 always have. When I did hardline i think i went with 13mm od. I know 1/2x3/4 isn't "better" I just like the way it looks. Thinner tubing looks good too but I've always had massive cases, so it looks better. There isn't much tube going all over the place in my build that's even visible so.


----------



## lowfat

Larger tubing absolutely has no benefit. Tubing size is 100% aesthetics only. Only if you are running like 100ft of tubing will it actually matter. A single 90 degree fitting will have a higher pressure drop than 10 ft of 1/4" tubing. Remember that all fittings have a 3/8" bore. Increasing tubing size beyond that has no real benefit.

Pretty mind boggling that about half of his tubing / fittings sales are for hard tubing.

EDIT: Fixed.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Larger tubing absolutely has no benefit. Tubing size is 100% aesthetics only. Only if you are running like 100ft of tubing will it actually matter. A single 90 degree fitting will have a higher pressure drop than 10 ft of 1/4" tubing. Remember that all fittings have a 1/4" bore. Increasing tubing size beyond that has no real benefit.
> 
> Pretty mind boggling that about half of his tubing / fittings sales are for hard tubing.


g1/4 is 3/8 or 10mm


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that *most* of us would agree that larger tubing yields no benefit in performance over smaller diameter tubing. I only said what I did because it was mentioned that hardline has no benefit over flexible. Something which I cannot disagree more with. Taking the question of plasticizer out of the equation is a benefit in itself. I run White tubing, there aren't really any options where I don't have to worry about the stuff. I don't run dyes in my loops, but I do like some color. I ran White flex tubing but once I saw that I had plasticizer leeching I chose to go with Acrylic, likely will stay with that since I understand the bending process with it. Although PETG is supposed to be simpler for novice benders to get positive results. Not to mention the cost of fittings being cheaper in most cases unless that's what one uses to avoid difficult bends or bending.

Well anyway. There are benefits to running hardline over flex. And that's what I was saying.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycgtr

I went hardline for a while then I caught some issues and swapped back. Next time I redo my loop it will be hard line again. However, I've never had a plasticizer problem but I have seen it in other loops. I know certain tubing like the old primochill ones had high changes of having that problem, and also certain UV tubing. If you do your research and maintain your loop on good basis, soft tubing is just fine.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think that *most* of us would agree that larger tubing yields no benefit in performance over smaller diameter tubing. I only said what I did because it was mentioned that hardline has no benefit over flexible. Something which I cannot disagree more with. Taking the question of plasticizer out of the equation is a benefit in itself. I run White tubing, there aren't really any options where I don't have to worry about the stuff. I don't run dyes in my loops, but I do like some color. I ran White flex tubing but once I saw that I had plasticizer leeching I chose to go with Acrylic, likely will stay with that since I understand the bending process with it. Although PETG is supposed to be simpler for novice benders to get positive results. Not to mention the cost of fittings being cheaper in most cases unless that's what one uses to avoid difficult bends or bending.
> 
> Well anyway. There are benefits to running hardline over flex. And that's what I was saying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There were two reasons I went with Larger Tubing in my first few watercooled builds:
1. And this is moreso for my first two or three builds, I couldn't find all of the fittings I wanted in any other size. I was kind of forced into the 3/4OD fittings because, well, getting all of my fittings in other sizes just seemed impossible back then. I even ordered from 4 different vendors to get all of what I had.
2. Big builds with lots of "empty" space. That tubing size seemed to fill a lot of that void.

Now that smaller fittings are more abundant than they were in years previous, and the fact that hard line tubing is the bees knees, I've moved away from the larger diameters. At no point did I purchase larger diameter fittings for performance, because when you get down to the actual bore on blocks and pumps, they're far smaller. So you're not moving any more liquid through those blocks just because you have bigger tubing and fittings.

It's an industry that's finally starting to settle a bit in terms of sizes and measurements. Radiators are all pretty standardized now, too, (no more "should I get a rad with 15mm spacing or 20mm spacing" questions or "ermagad my case is 15mm fan spacing but my rad is 20mm") which is great for consumers. The more standards our industry can settle on, the better it is for everyone.


----------



## MR-e

I say just go with whatever floats your boat and you're comfortable in using. No point to argue in this thread as it's a club for all water cooling and posting pictures!


----------



## Sazexa

Hey everyone. I'm looking for some new fittings to add some aesthetic flair to my build that matches my taste. Right now I'm using some EK compression fittings in chrome. It's for 10/16mm soft tubing. I'm looking to get some fittings that, instead of chrome, are more like a satin-silver. Something that would match say the anodized aluminum look on the Corsair Dominator Platinum memory modules. Does anyone know of any good fittings for this?

Hard tubing fittings are also acceptable, as I may switch to hard tubing when I get a new case.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey everyone. I'm looking for some new fittings to add some aesthetic flair to my build that matches my taste. Right now I'm using some EK compression fittings in chrome. It's for 10/16mm soft tubing. I'm looking to get some fittings that, instead of chrome, are more like a satin-silver. Something that would match say the anodized aluminum look on the Corsair Dominator Platinum memory modules. Does anyone know of any good fittings for this?
> 
> Hard tubing fittings are also acceptable, as I may switch to hard tubing when I get a new case.


Bitspower Black Sparkle are your best bet.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> Bitspower Black Sparkle are your best bet.


Hmm. Those still seem like a very reflective finish. I wonder if I'm better of painting my fitting's collars.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hmm. Those still seem like a very reflective finish. I wonder if I'm better of painting my fitting's collars.


I wanted a matte black finish for all my mismatched fittings so I removed the o-rings, connected all the rotary fittings together and plugged the ends, lined up all the compression collars and sprayed them with several coats. Pretty happy with the outcome







. I just made sure to give the paint plenty of time to cure and use gloves when handling the fittings.

Edit: added the removal of o-rings to list of steps.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I wanted a matte black finish for all my mismatched fittings so I connected all the rotary fittings together and plugged the ends, lined up all the compression collars and sprayed them with several coats. Pretty happy with the outcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I just made sure to give the paint plenty of time to cure and use gloves when handling the fittings.


That's not a bad idea. I know some people who do powder coating. I don't think they powder coat in silver, but if I wanted to do black, I bet I could mock up something similar and do black powder coat.

I'd just need to pull the O-Rings off first to make sure they didn't melt.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> That's not a bad idea. I know some people who do powder coating. I don't think they powder coat in silver, but if I wanted to do black, I bet I could mock up something similar and do black powder coat.
> 
> I'd just need to pull the O-Rings off first to make sure they didn't melt.


Powder coating would look great







. Good catch with removing the O-rings, that is something I had to do with the rotary and angled fittings







.

I didn't spray the barb part of the compression fittings in my case because I used XSPC fittings that are mostly covered when the collar is added. Bitspower fittings would most likely need the barb part painted to match.


----------



## Sazexa

Also, somewhat random, has anyone had experience with Nitrile tubing? I imagine it'd be fine, if it's acceptable for use as fuel line.

I've been on a kick for trying to use steel braided tubing for a while now, and I finally found some I think may work in a size I like. It's 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD as my current tubing. I bought actual sleeving to use on my current EK ZMT tubing, but with the sleeve on the already thick EK tubing, I couldn't tighten down the collar on my compression fittings.

Anyways, so yeah, is Nitrile tubing acceptable/safe to use in a loop?

(link to the tubing if necessary)


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> That's not a bad idea. I know some people who do powder coating. I don't think they powder coat in silver, but if I wanted to do black, I bet I could mock up something similar and do black powder coat.


Don't do it. I did and all the details of the fitting get lost and make it incredibly hard to manipulate the collars in any way. I'm actually considering just ditching my plans for soft tubing and using PrimoChill's RevolverSX Candy Copper hard fittings and orange-red hard tubing.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Don't do it. I did and all the details of the fitting get lost and make it incredibly hard to manipulate the collars in any way. I'm actually considering just ditching my plans for soft tubing and using PrimoChill's RevolverSX Candy Copper hard fittings and orange-red hard tubing.


I'm considering doing hardline for the build. If I do, I might do some kind of clear tubing and then frost it after making the bends.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'm considering doing hardline for the build. If I do, I might do some kind of clear tubing and then frost it after making the bends.


iirc alphacool's has some frosted hard tubing. Looks pretty damn good in the one build I've seen with it


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Larger tubing absolutely has no benefit. Tubing size is 100% aesthetics only. Only if you are running like 100ft of tubing will it actually matter. A single 90 degree fitting will have a higher pressure drop than 10 ft of 1/4" tubing. Remember that all fittings have a 1/4" bore. Increasing tubing size beyond that has no real benefit.
> 
> Pretty mind boggling that about half of his tubing / fittings sales are for hard tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> g1/4 is 3/8 or 10mm
Click to expand...

first whose fittings are for sale ??

second that is exactly my point, it is not pointless. it has a point, but MOST does not use it, but i would prefer having the option then not having the option another good reason to use larger fittings is for extreme cooling with some form of anti freeze, .... it can get really slushy and when it is it creates alot more restriction . again i am talking about outliers but nevertheless less that is my point just because you dont use it, or the majority doesnt use something for its benefits, does not mean it is pointless

lastly fluid dynamics does not care that the hole is smaller then the tubing, smaller tubing =more velocity basically when something [ lets say water ] flows from a bigger pipe to a smaller fitting, the fluid speeds up through the smaller fitting and slows down as it exits the fitting so my question becomes what does it matter that g1/4 =3/8????


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first whose fittings are for sale ??
> 
> second that is exactly my point, it is not pointless. it has a point, but MOST does not use it, but i would prefer having the option then not having the option another good reason to use larger fittings is for extreme cooling with some form of anti freeze, .... it can get really slushy and when it is it creates alot more restriction . again i am talking about outliers but nevertheless less that is my point just because you dont use it, or the majority doesnt use something for its benefits, does not mean it is pointless
> 
> lastly fluid dynamics does not care that the hole is smaller then the tubing, smaller tubing =more velocity basically when something [ lets say water ] flows from a bigger pipe to a smaller fitting, the fluid speeds up through the smaller fitting and slows down as it exits the fitting so my question becomes what does it matter that g1/4 =3/8????


This post has sooo much wrong with it.....

Extreme coolers dont use water as a thermal medium so I fail to see how it can get 'slushy' and if by some chance that it does then the pump wont pump it....

Fluid dynamics DOES care about the restriction on the bore. Volumetric flow requires more pump power to overcome restriction,it doesnt simply 'go faster',restriction is cumulative across the loop.

Lowfat is correct on all points. Large tube is purely aesthetic,there are gains but they are minute,well within Margin of Error.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Extreme coolers dont use water as a thermal medium so I fail to see how it can get 'slushy' and if by some chance that it does then the pump wont pump it....


We have a few members who make use of Canadian winters with a MO-RA3 out on the porch (or hung out the window) when they're testing out gear before an LN2 run (marc0053 comes to mind as a prominent example). I believe he uses a 50/50 premixed antifreeze (with gear dedicated for use with just antifreeze) in such applications. I plan on doing this myself for when I don't have dry ice available for subzero runs, or when testing out and tweaking anything new (or if it's an ambient temp challenge).

Dunking radiators in a bucker full of ice water is also a common trick for those in the HWBot rookie/novice/enthusiast categories, although risk of parts freezing is a lot lower with this kind of application due to not going below zero (unless you're crazy and make a saltwater ice bucket). A crazier version of this involves modifying window air conditioner units and dunking certain parts into an anti-freeze bath, then circulation said antifreeze through a loop. Depending on the air conditioner used and the load placed on it (and the amount of insulation used), it is possible to see temps a few dozen degrees below zero Celsius.

Definitely agree about the slush though, especially since slush means you're going to have an ice block very soon,and that's definitely not a good thing in a water loop.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first whose fittings are for sale ??
> 
> second that is exactly my point, it is not pointless. it has a point, but MOST does not use it, but i would prefer having the option then not having the option another good reason to use larger fittings is for extreme cooling with some form of anti freeze, .... it can get really slushy and when it is it creates alot more restriction . again i am talking about outliers but nevertheless less that is my point just because you dont use it, or the majority doesnt use something for its benefits, does not mean it is pointless
> 
> lastly fluid dynamics does not care that the hole is smaller then the tubing, smaller tubing =more velocity basically when something [ lets say water ] flows from a bigger pipe to a smaller fitting, the fluid speeds up through the smaller fitting and slows down as it exits the fitting so my question becomes what does it matter that g1/4 =3/8????
> 
> 
> 
> This post has sooo much wrong with it.....
> 
> Extreme coolers dont use water as a thermal medium so I fail to see how it can get 'slushy' and if by some chance that it does then the pump wont pump it....
> 
> Fluid dynamics DOES care about the restriction on the bore. Volumetric flow requires more pump power to overcome restriction,it doesnt simply 'go faster',restriction is cumulative across the loop.
> 
> Lowfat is correct on all points. Large tube is purely aesthetic,there are gains but they are minute,well within Margin of Error.
Click to expand...

the only point i made was that she/he [she iirc] stated there is a point, after stating it was pointless.

as to the extreme cooling, well an independent person already proved DOES happen, it is a excessively low percent, *but i prefer to have the option rather then not.*

think about people with geothermal set ups [again rare, but does happen.] *depending on their setup*, again tubing size DOES matter. because it is going hundreds of feet

as to slush not being pumped you are wrong. i work in hvac and some of the chillers i have taken care do ice rinks, with temps as low as -20, as many other things i have done with temps below freezing

guess what, they use the same pumps that pump water, the impeller is the same shape- but it is a slushy mix

that said most people in the situations i have mentioned that i have seen and or talked about do not use a ddc or a d5 but another pump, which is off the current topic


----------



## lowfat

I'm a dood btw.


----------



## DarthBaggins

^lol


----------



## Mega Man

sorry, no offence ment, i thought i remembered an old post where you said you were a dooette. i was wrong


----------



## Dave600

Hey guys its me again ^^
Just wanted to say that it actually is possible to connect 2 120 instead of using a 240







. I just had to try it out







I'm using an Alphacool duble nipple and an Alphacool Eiszapfen extension (10mm)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> Hey guys its me again ^^
> Just wanted to say that it actually is possible to connect 2 120 instead of using a 240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I just had to try it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using an Alphacool duble nipple and an Alphacool Eiszapfen extension (10mm)


Nice!!!

TCO


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> Hey guys its me again ^^
> Just wanted to say that it actually is possible to connect 2 120 instead of using a 240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I just had to try it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using an Alphacool duble nipple and an Alphacool Eiszapfen extension (10mm)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yeah, nice.









thanks for saying something - i thought you'd have some issues.


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> yeah, nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for saying something - i thought you'd have some issues.


Mee too xD My only problem was that these 90 degree fittings are more like 95 degrees (buy cheap buy twice) so it was a little bit harder than expected to get them screwed in the rad's. Also now there is much preadsure on the fittings and threads so I'm going to end up replacing the 2 90's with some higher quality fittings


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave600*
> 
> Mee too xD My only problem was that these 90 degree fittings are more like 95 degrees (buy cheap buy twice) so it was a little bit harder than expected to get them screwed in the rad's. Also now there is much preadsure on the fittings and threads so I'm going to end up replacing the 2 90's with some higher quality fittings


You may also want to look into the rad ports themselves. My dual 360 rads setup in a similar fashion has one of the ports not aligned as well as the other and causes a slight bow when interconnecting the fittings and hard tube.


----------



## Dave600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> You may also want to look into the rad ports themselves. My dual 360 rads setup in a similar fashion has one of the ports not aligned as well as the other and causes a slight bow when interconnecting the fittings and hard tube.


I checked that already and it is a little bit tilted but maybe just 1-3 degrees so Im good


----------



## prznar1

Is it safe to use destilled water that was standing for a month in bottle that was opened already?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Is it safe to use destilled water that was standing for a month in bottle that was opened already?


Was the Bottle Closed?

TCO


----------



## prznar1

Yeah. Very hard.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Yeah. Very hard.


Wouldn't see why It would go bad in an air-tight container.

TCO


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wouldn't see why It would go bad in an air-tight container.
> 
> TCO


Because it was already opened by me







but if you say so, i guess you are right


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Because it was already opened by me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but if you say so, i guess you are right


I'd tell you to smell it, but I guess that wouldn't work very well.

Is Distilled water cheap where you are at? I can get a Gallon for 0.99$ in Louisiana.

TCO


----------



## prznar1

I think its even cheaper







but i just dont like to waste things. Im about to do a slight redo of my loop. New board, few angled fittings so ill have to fill the loop with new coolant.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I think its even cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i just dont like to waste things. Im about to do a slight redo of my loop. New board, few angled fittings so ill have to fill the loop with new coolant.


Just get another gallon if you are trippin about it. Just got water.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> I think its even cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i just dont like to waste things. Im about to do a slight redo of my loop. New board, few angled fittings so ill have to fill the loop with new coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> Just get another gallon if you are trippin about it. Just got water.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Agreed. I never re-use left over distilled for anything but car batteries. As soon as the container is opened it starts the degradation process. Impurities will find their way to the water and putting that water into my system is a no-no imho. As cheap as it is I simply get a new jug and use the old stock for other things. Car batteries, coolant mix for my car etc. We live in a town north of a steep grade too so open jugs will find their way to the roadside for motorists who are having problems overheating during the hot summer months.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

generally it is fine, water (in general) has a min of 6 month shelf life when it is opened


----------



## Ceadderman

I change out at the 6mos mark to a year so generally yes but not always.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Mine has been in my pc over 3 year iirc


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Mine has been in my pc over 3 year iirc










You haven't changed your water in 3 years?!? So I'm assuming no block maintenance in that time either?


----------



## Mega Man

Yep, water is still clean as well.

I test water ph and add biocide as I feel necessary. And top offs as needed.

Yea kinda blows the whole must change water every 6 months or year outta the water huh? (Pun intended)

Soon I will do a full breakdown. Currently rebuilding my m8 first, then I'll transfer my th10 to my tx10 (may rebuild with a 69xx and get to ask of ryzen for other side.

Then nas and pfsense router will be going in my th10. On that note I need to order my xeon for the router upgrade


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You haven't changed your water in 3 years?!? So I'm assuming no block maintenance in that time either?


2.5 years here, no issues at all. As long as my temps stay normal and there's nothing growing in my reservoir it should all be fine.

Going to break down and clean it soon though, as I'm going to part out my rig. Should be interesting to see what the blocks look like.


----------



## Ceadderman

Tbh, growth will first happen in CPU (fins're smaller at that point) first where heat is at it's premium point. Biocides should limit growth oportunity but if you're waiting for it to hit your Res, damages is already done.









~Ceadder


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tbh, growth will first happen in CPU (fins're smaller at that point) first where heat is at it's premium point. Biocides should limit growth oportunity but if you're waiting for it to hit your Res, damages is already done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


so you COULD but a a peace of a cooler with fine fins in the res and use it as an indicator (for sure install it so, that the water flows over it)


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tbh, growth will first happen in CPU (fins're smaller at that point) first where heat is at it's premium point. Biocides should limit growth oportunity but if you're waiting for it to hit your Res, damages is already done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I know, but if there was significant growth in my CPU block that would result in higher than normal temperatures, right?

I don't have acrylic blocks, so the only way to tell if there's anything going wrong in my loop are my temps first and stuff growing in my res second.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes it could start increasing temps. But not always noticeably enough to get one's attention. I do see how you're more reliant on your Reservoir as an age indicator however.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sazexa

Vague question here, but...

Say I have a loop with two GPU's and a CPU, and it's running on a 480x60mm rad, a 240x60mm, and a 360x38mm rad... How much of a temperature difference will "good" high static pressure fans make against not so good ones?

I'm currently running my system off a single 480x60 and four Noctua NF-F12's. I saw Deepcool's RGB fans they'll be releasing. I'm assuming they'll be relatively quiet, but I'm also assuming they'll have less static pressure than my NF-F12's or something like Vardars.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Not enough difference for the money.

I swapped all the bitfenix fans in my build for Nb Eloops.

300$ later I can tell you It looks great! Lol.

TCO


----------



## Trestles126

got a nice package today from jim at clockwerks. everything came out great now if i wasnt working 7-12s till march i would have some time to start completing this s8. sorry for the quick mock up and pictures before i had to get to bed


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> got a nice package today from jim at clockwerks. everything came out great now if i wasnt working 7-12s till march i would have some time to start completing this s8. sorry for the quick mock up and pictures before i had to get to bed
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mock Ups make for better builds








I really like how the top mounted res block came out - very nice indeed.

and speaking of S8's - here's a few pics of mine.

1st fill a couple of days ago, and then today before part disassemble to sort out a wring issue - Aquaero USB


----------



## TheCautiousOne

HOF arrived.




TCO


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnqJQP9fj

Just booted up my new 7700k setup.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Which do you all prefer, D5 or DDC ? ... I am looking at starting my CPU loop next month and am not sure which pump to get since they are the same price in my country.

Also, does this seem ok ?

1x EKWB RES X3
1x EKWB 360mm CoolStream PE
1x Pump mentioned above
1x Bitspower AIX79R4BE Full Block
8x EKWB HDC Fitting 12mm

And then WKs HD PETG tubing as required.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Which do you all prefer, D5 or DDC ? ... I am looking at starting my CPU loop next month and am not sure which pump to get since they are the same price in my country.
> 
> Also, does this seem ok ?
> 
> 1x EKWB RES X3
> 1x EKWB 360mm CoolStream PE
> 1x Pump mentioned above
> 1x Bitspower AIX79R4BE Full Block
> 8x EKWB HDC Fitting 12mm
> 
> And then WKs HD PETG tubing as required.


Always D5 if you got the room. The parts should be fine for cooling a CPU, Not sure what results you will get without knowing the CPU your using.

You will need a pump top or a Res/Pump combo.


----------



## rolldog

I'm in the market to upgrade my QNAP TS-451+ to something more powerful. QNAP recently released these new NASs (NASES? NASIE?):

https://www.qnap.com/en-us/product/model.php?II=233&ref=product_overview

Now they're making them with Intel i7-6700 CPUs, 3 x PCIe slots, and this one has 2 x Thunderbolt 2 ports (support 20Gbps), 2 x 10GbE ports, and 4 x GbE ports. I've had my QNAP NAS for years, and I've gradually watched them transition into standalone PCs (this particular NAS has 3 HDMI and supports 64GB memory. Has anyone ever tried to put a custom waterloop on one of these? I'm sure it's possible, but the radiators and reservoir would probably need to be on the outside, maybe mounted into a MiniATX case or something.

Since I finished my build, I've been kinda bored and was thinking about setting up a cooling solution out of the ordinary, doing something no one has done before, but I'm sure someone has probably done this before. I've seen some crazy looking setups on things you wouldn't expect to see.

Anyone have any ideas on this? I know I could probably build my own NAS, but that wouldn't be any fun.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Always D5 if you got the room. The parts should be fine for cooling a CPU, Not sure what results you will get without knowing the CPU your using.
> 
> You will need a pump top or a Res/Pump combo.


I will be buying the EK D5, the elite version that comes complete

My CPU is in my sig, 4960X running @ 4.5ghz ... Will be using a full cover block so VRMs will be cooled as well


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> and speaking of S8's - here's a few pics of mine.
> 
> 1st fill a couple of days ago, and then today before part disassemble to sort out a wring issue - Aquaero USB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice indeed!


----------



## Ironsmack

Im almost done. Just need to do the following:

- GPU/24-pin cables, re-sleeved them
- sleeve the other cables
- make a bracket for the AQ6 and attached to the side window
- Install my noise insulation

And i think... im done


----------



## emsj86




----------



## rolldog

Well, I never posted any pics of my final rig with the lighting complete, so here it is. The ventilation on the top of the 120mm top was cut out and replaced with blue acrylic, cut in a hex shape like PrimoChill's rad guards. The buttons installed on the front of the 120mm top switch from UV lighting to white lighting.


----------



## jleslie246

Do you (anyone) know if EK will sell just the top to their Super Evo? I have the one with crop circles and I would like to get the slick one. Id also consider a trade.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Do you (anyone) know if EK will sell just the top to their Super Evo? I have the one with crop circles and I would like to get the slick one. Id also consider a trade.


They do. I got just the plexi top from Performance-pcs to replace my MX top, although I don't see it on their site now
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ek+top+supremacy

edit: though if you're using the one with the csq circles then that has a different internal system I belive so the top wouldn't be compatible. I know you can also buy the inserts and plates separately, but that might get more expensive that just getting an Evo Didn't realize they made the evo csq too, my bad








http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/27/ek-supremacy-evo/


----------



## r9miner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Do you (anyone) know if EK will sell just the top to their Super Evo? I have the one with crop circles and I would like to get the slick one. Id also consider a trade.


LOL @ "crop circles" but yeah like the above post says PPCs has some of them but not the regular plain plexi one. I almost bought the full copper one (thermalbench review shows it performs slightly better than the plexi/acetal versions) but decided i'd rather see the coolant color through my original plexi version.

If you email EK they might be able to sell you one even though they don't list them on their web store.

Can confirm the insert and jet are the same between original CSQ and plain plexi version i've owned both.


----------



## jleslie246

Yes. I dont see the slick clear EVO anywhere. Even on EK site.


----------



## r9miner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Yes. I dont see the slick clear EVO anywhere. Even on EK site.


Worst case do what I did if the OCD gets the best of you. Buy a plain plexi then sell your CSQ.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Yes. I dont see the slick clear EVO anywhere. Even on EK site.


yeah you'd be better off getting the entire new block since the internals are different from the csq to the evo. The baseplate looks like it may be a different thickness or the fins may be taller or somthing. I tried to edit my post quickly, but I'm not as ninja-like as I once was lol..


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> They do. I got just the plexi top from Performance-pcs to replace my MX top, although I don't see it on their site now
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ek+top+supremacy
> 
> edit: though if you're using the one with the csq circles then that has a different internal system I belive so the top wouldn't be compatible. I know you can also buy the inserts and plates separately, but that might get more expensive that just getting an Evo
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/08/27/ek-supremacy-evo/


Actually mine is the new type with the extra plastic insert. Just has circles instead of slick.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Actually mine is the new type with the extra plastic insert. Just has circles instead of slick.


oh, totally missed that! my bad, maybe ask over in the EK thread too
http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/18480_60


----------



## mfranco702

Finally decided to do a custom loop, my first one ever, please dont judge lol, any critics and suggestions are welcome, I will upload all the pictures in a separate thread as build log, tons of images of all the process, from building the case to the final look.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would recommend some 45deg adapters, it would clean up a lot of the runs you have. Other than that it doesn't look bad


----------



## paskowitz

I would get a larger res and put the pump directly below it. Having the pump off to the side is triggering my dormant OCD.


----------



## rathborne

Hi everyone, I'm considering the next step for my water cooling build where I want to reuse the XSPC 420 and 360 radiators I have. I'd be looking to go res > pump > 420 rad > GTX980ti > 360 rad > i7-4790k > return to res.

Would it be better to have a single loop with the two radiators to provide more overall cooling capacity for the loop or is it generally better to split a system into GPU and CPU loops? Has anyone here tried one vs two loops and compared the difference with their builds?

Thanks







!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm considering the next step for my water cooling build where I want to reuse the XSPC 420 and 360 radiators I have. I'd be looking to go res > pump > 420 rad > GTX980ti > 360 rad > i7-4790k > return to res.
> 
> Would it be better to have a single loop with the two radiators to provide more overall cooling capacity for the loop or is it generally better to split a system into GPU and CPU loops? Has anyone here tried one vs two loops and compared the difference with their builds?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Having two loops is just aesthetics nowadays. Components now are more thermal efficient, that a single loop can suffice.

The amount of rad space (or type of rad) + fan speed has more of an effect, rather than having 2 separate loops.

Plus, you just need to buy a single pump/res and less fittings when going with a single loop.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Having two loops is just aesthetics nowadays. Components now are more thermal efficient, that a single loop can suffice.
> 
> The amount of rad space (or type of rad) + fan speed has more of an effect, rather than having 2 separate loops.
> 
> Plus, you just need to buy a single pump/res and less fittings when going with a single loop.


Thanks, the reduced number of fittings and single pump are huge cost saver in a loop I've found so definitely a positive thing







.

I had thought the dual loops was more of an aesthetic thing especially in massive Caselabs systems that can look a little empty without the additional reservoir filling the space.

Although when looking around the net to see if my ~65C CPU load temperatures vs 55C load GPU temperatures on the single 420 radiator some people suggested dual loops reduce the amount of heat dumped into the CPU right after the GPU. But then this advice seemed to conflict with the idea that the loop temperatures will balance out and loop order isn't critical beyond the obvious reservoir > pump rule.

It is an Australian summer here so the temperatures are probably a little high to begin with







.


----------



## Trestles126

Dual loops are purely aesthetic ! Deffinetly more expensive! Especially when you have 5-6 seperate orders of fittings and odds and ins from performance with shipping at 15 bucks a time! ?


----------



## Trestles126

Speaking of. Anyone ever use these bitspower adjustable male to male fittings that adjust from 16mm-22mm length thinking about using them to connect my pump tops to the bottom of the resivoir pictured above


----------



## prznar1

Its like oldschool multigpu connector. I bet many of builders here used those









New mobo arrived, z77 Mpower from MSI to replace my asrock z77 extreme4. Wonder if i could remove the metal plates from heatsinks. Looks like they are glued but with some crazy kick ass tough glue. Any ideas?



Under those metal plates are bare heatsinks without any text! something i would like to see more those days.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Speaking of. Anyone ever use these bitspower adjustable male to male fittings that adjust from 16mm-22mm length thinking about using them to connect my pump tops to the bottom of the resivoir pictured above


I've got a couple of them, pretty handy things.


----------



## prznar1

Going to drain my loop soon. Lets ser how much of goo is in my blocks. Loop was running from july 2016. Blocks are heatkiller 3.0 LC and heatkiller gpux3 core lc.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Going to drain my loop soon. Lets ser how much of goo is in my blocks. Loop was running from july 2016. Blocks are heatkiller 3.0 LC and heatkiller gpux3 core lc.


If your loop goes through cpu block first, your gpu blocks should be pretty good.


----------



## prznar1

You dont want to see the crap i found inside my whole loop. 2nd thing. Can ceramic bearing in laing D5 be replaced? My pump was getting noisy lately and now i know why. The ball is Black in one spot and have a Gray circle around it. Rotor is cool but ceramics are dead.

Autocorrection will kill me


----------



## Gleniu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> You dont want to see the crap i found inside my whole loop. 2nd thing. Can ceramic bearing in laing D5 be replaced? My pump was getting noisy lately and now i know why. The ball is Black in one spot and have a Gray circle around it. Rotor is cool but ceramics are dead.
> 
> Autocorrection will kill me


What coolant and tubing did you use? I'm about to drain my loop soon, too.


----------



## prznar1

Mayhems. Can recommend it. Dye (laser Green) and tubing. Keep in mind that i am using a soft tubing. No Green residue from dye and tubing resisted the damn brown residue. Growth? Dunno. Dont think do. Probably crap from radiator, at least i think itd from radiator. I was cleaning IT and cleaning and there was no end to bits of dirt coming out from it. After 2h i gave up and slammed IT in case and assambled everything.


----------



## steadly2004

So, I had to re-do my loop. Well, really just had to relocate my pump-res combo to make room for my placeholder videocard. The Fury Nitro OC+ is about 12.5 inches! Holy cow, i couldn't fit it in there. I figured after pulling out 2x Titan X's there'd be enough room, but no. Those are only 10.5 inches. I got frustrated with getting the silicone inside the acrylic, and just gave up and assembled with the imperfect bends I had. Last time I thought I have figured it out, use fishing line to pull it through, but..... it kept breaking off inside the tube. Very frustrating. I ended up going to the auto parts store at 9pm and getting some rubber hose as close as possible in size, then applying a heat shrink to make up the size difference. Worked once, then stuck in the second bend. I used it anyway after scratching that piece up getting the heat shrink out. Anyway, here are some pics. It ended up not looking as nice as before, but I free'd up the room I needed, and cleaned out my CPU block, and reapplied better TIM. That along with a dusting does wonders for temps.









Before:


During:



After:


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> I got frustrated with getting the silicone inside the acrylic, and just gave up and assembled with the imperfect bends I had. Last time I thought I have figured it out, use fishing line to pull it through, but..... it kept breaking off inside the tube. Very frustrating. I ended up going to the auto parts store at 9pm and getting some rubber hose as close as possible in size, then applying a heat shrink to make up the size difference. Worked once, then stuck in the second bend. I used it anyway after scratching that piece up getting the heat shrink out.


You haven't heard of using olive oil on the insert then? Works a treat.


----------



## steadly2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> You haven't heard of using olive oil on the insert then? Works a treat.


I'll have to remember that next time. Thanks!







I purchased new silicon for next time. I think the one I had was a smidge too thick.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> I'll have to remember that next time. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased new silicon for next time. I think the one I had was a smidge too thick.


It may have been the right size... there shouldn't be much space, but without any lubrication it will be very hard to get it in and out







. With the oil, just make sure you cover the length of the insert, then slide in. Obviously rinse out tubes a few times afterwards with some washing liquid to get rid of all oil traces, and then distilled/de-ionised so they're all clean before you use.


----------



## criss100

good afternoon

I introduce myself and I with my pc
It's a deskmod made of my hands
Is composed of the following:

Motherboard - asus x99 rampage v 10 edition

Cpu - i7 6800k

Ram - corsair dominator 3000

Gpu - gtx 980ti

Sound - sbz

Now we go to refrigeration

2 radiators ek 3x120 (4cm)

Combo ek pump d5 and depo

Block cpu ek supremacy

Block gpu ek gtx titan x

Gtt + NB-eLoop fans controlled with a water pro 6 and light controlled with a farbwerk

I'll leave the photos


----------



## steadly2004

I like the desk ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> I got frustrated with getting the silicone inside the acrylic, and just gave up and assembled with the imperfect bends I had. Last time I thought I have figured it out, use fishing line to pull it through, but..... it kept breaking off inside the tube. Very frustrating. I ended up going to the auto parts store at 9pm and getting some rubber hose as close as possible in size, then applying a heat shrink to make up the size difference. Worked once, then stuck in the second bend. I used it anyway after scratching that piece up getting the heat shrink out.
> 
> 
> 
> You haven't heard of using olive oil on the insert then? Works a treat.
Click to expand...

Liquid dish soap works best. Ajax cleans from tubing really quick since it's so thin.









~Ceadder


----------



## steadly2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Liquid dish soap works best. Ajax cleans from tubing really quick since it's so thin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll keep that in mind, since I'd be using soap to get the oil off anyway. With soap and water do you think you should be able to push the silicone in?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Liquid dish soap works best. Ajax cleans from tubing really quick since it's so thin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll keep that in mind, since I'd be using soap to get the oil off anyway. With soap and water do you think you should be able to push the silicone in?
Click to expand...

Should be just fine. Just 50/50 it and it should be slick enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Another way is to coat the o rings with dow corning's molykote (formally known as 111 ) it will protect the o rings as well


----------



## D13mass

Hi guys! Little update: pc stand with wheels from my friend. Bought it special for comfortable cleaning appartment (now my wife can moves my PC to another place).


----------



## Mega Man

she can, but the real question is should she ?


----------



## D13mass

Removed


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> You dont want to see the crap i found inside my whole loop. 2nd thing. Can ceramic bearing in laing D5 be replaced? My pump was getting noisy lately and now i know why. The ball is Black in one spot and have a Gray circle around it. Rotor is cool but ceramics are dead.
> 
> Autocorrection will kill me


No,it cannot be replaced.


----------



## prznar1

Damn it. Oh well, vpp755 is so tempting.

Changing motherboard was good decision. Cpu speed bumped from 4.4 to 4.6 with little tweaking. BB asrock z77 extreme4, welcome msi z77 mpower


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pllHpiH5j

https://imageshack.com/i/pmsL4IuSj

I'll redo the runs and get some kind of symmetry going at some point, just wanted to get up and running.


----------



## Blackops_2

Khemist is that acrylic/PETG or just straight runs with regular tubing?


----------



## khemist

Bitspower Nickel/Brass tubing. http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=172_294&products_id=4468


----------



## B NEGATIVE

That makes me laugh...non chamfer tube that.....
Quote:


> Used before be cut in right length and have chamfer be finished.


----------



## R-o-D

Has anybody tried bending some of that bitspower brass tubing? How does the finish hold up? For that matter, what is the finish (PVD, ION plating, paint, embedded somehow)?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R-o-D*
> 
> Has anybody tried bending some of that bitspower brass tubing? How does the finish hold up? For that matter, what is the finish (PVD, ION plating, paint, embedded somehow)?


Plated and you cant bend it.


----------



## R-o-D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Plated and you cant bend it.


Thanks. So much for me looking more into it.

+rep


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Would I be able to this type of Loop without any negative effects? Only reason I'm asking it would be easier to run the tubing without any backtracking.

Res -> Rad -> Pump 1 - Rad -> Pump 2 -> CPU Block -> Rad -> GPU Block -> Back to Res


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Would I be able to this type of Loop without any negative effects? Only reason I'm asking it would be easier to run the tubing without any backtracking.
> 
> Res -> Rad -> Pump 1 - Rad -> Pump 2 -> CPU Block -> Rad -> GPU Block -> Back to Res


Long as pump 1 is primed with fluid I suppose, since it is not being directly fed from the Res.

TCO


----------



## kariverson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I'll redo the runs and get some kind of symmetry going at some point, just wanted to get up and running.


Screw symmetry, this looks badass!!


----------



## rathborne

There's a second pump in that loop too that could be ruined if it runs without being primed with fluid.

Can the second pump be left disconnected during the fill process to be safe or will having water forced through it by pump 1 without being powered on cause problems? Unfortunately I don't know enough about the pumps to answer this.

What orientation are the radiators before they feed the pumps? I found in my admittedly limited number of builds that radiators mounted vertically with the ports at the bottom either needed to be bridged when filling or required the pump to push the fluid through.

If the radiators are mounted horizontally or vertically on their side it might be OK... though I wouldn't turn the pumps on until I could see fluid reaching the CPU block to be safe. Damaging the pumps by running them dry would be bad.

Do you have photos of the build







?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> There's a second pump in that loop too that could be ruined if it runs without being primed with fluid.
> 
> Can the second pump be left disconnected during the fill process to be safe or will having water forced through it by pump 1 without being powered on cause problems? Unfortunately I don't know enough about the pumps to answer this.
> 
> What orientation are the radiators before they feed the pumps? I found in my admittedly limited number of builds that radiators mounted vertically with the ports at the bottom either needed to be bridged when filling or required the pump to push the fluid through.
> 
> If the radiators are mounted horizontally or vertically on their side it might be OK... though I wouldn't turn the pumps on until I could see fluid reaching the CPU block to be safe. Damaging the pumps by running them dry would be bad.
> 
> Do you have photos of the build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


The first rad is laying flat, The second rad is connected to Flex-Bay system.


























Image One: The Starting Point, Which will then drop down to the first Rad.
Image Two: The first Rad
Image Three: The visible pump is Pump two, The first pump will be placed on the cases bottom.

In my signature it's My Ice Dragon Build if you need more reference images (Any image after January 10th, 2017). Since I'm Re-Building it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> There's a second pump in that loop too that could be ruined if it runs without being primed with fluid.
> 
> Can the second pump be left disconnected during the fill process to be safe or will having water forced through it by pump 1 without being powered on cause problems? Unfortunately I don't know enough about the pumps to answer this.
> 
> What orientation are the radiators before they feed the pumps? I found in my admittedly limited number of builds that radiators mounted vertically with the ports at the bottom either needed to be bridged when filling or required the pump to push the fluid through.
> 
> If the radiators are mounted horizontally or vertically on their side it might be OK... though I wouldn't turn the pumps on until I could see fluid reaching the CPU block to be safe. Damaging the pumps by running them dry would be bad.
> 
> Do you have photos of the build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Just leave the second pump disconnected during the fill process. It won't ruin the pump. When the loop is full run it for an hour or so before connecting the 2nd and then connect and run both. The 2nd pump should be fully primed by then.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathborne

@Ceadderman, thanks for that, I wasn't sure if pumps were OK to be powered off and spun by force (similar to how people discourage free spinning PC fans)







.

@Revan654, I had a lot of difficulty filling my first loop because of air blocking the passive passage of fluid. While I had that figured out in the second build the new system I'm designing won't have any vertical radiators standing up as they can make the filling and draining process a little more complicated







.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Its like oldschool multigpu connector. I bet many of builders here used those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New mobo arrived, z77 Mpower from MSI to replace my asrock z77 extreme4. Wonder if i could remove the metal plates from heatsinks. Looks like they are glued but with some crazy kick ass tough glue. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> Under those metal plates are bare heatsinks without any text! something i would like to see more those days.


I've had that motherboard and did exactly that... it's just sticky tape... just VERY sticky tape. If you heat them a little with a heatgun or hair dryer (not too much though obviously) they will let go a little easier. It will probably bend the metal and they won't be usable afterwards... but I can attest to it not making a difference in resale as I got almost full retail when I sold mine on the bay.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Found a better one from my listing...


----------



## Deeptek

I need to invest in a decent camera for general photography. This is my new ITX that is pretty much done except for PSU cables. Had a lot of fun making this build and it is my first ITX rig!


----------



## jon666

So after three or so years of drooling I finally bought a Coolermaster Cosmos II. Should come in tomorrow. Might have to buy smaller rads to make it work, or find a way to fit two 360x120mm rads, one of them being an all in one from swiftech with the pump/res combo. I am stoked. Might even paint it. Maybe. Trying to think of something cool to do with it. No more ugly watercooling for me. I still don't care much for cable management.


----------



## lazyalam

Hey, beginner water cooler here, Im trying to fill my loop but as can be seen theres giant pockets of air not filling. What do?


----------



## sli_shroom

cycle your pump on and off.

rotate/flip your case upside down or tilt on its sides. it is all about getting that air to head towards the res


----------



## Blackops_2

What are we limited to for mid towers that can house 2 360mm rads with little to no modding? H440, Evolv ATX, and the Fractal Design S?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> So after three or so years of drooling *I finally bought a Coolermaster Cosmos II.* Should come in tomorrow. Might have to buy smaller rads to make it work, or find a way to fit two 360x120mm rads, one of them being an all in one from swiftech with the pump/res combo. I am stoked. Might even paint it. Maybe. Trying to think of something cool to do with it. No more ugly watercooling for me. I still don't care much for cable management.


That was a mistake.......


----------



## jon666

I need a case I can carry around with my watercooled PC not getting banged up. Handles are a plus. I REGRET NOTHING. I will somehow make this worth it. I'm not going to lie. I like the looks better then anything that would serve me better, like a 900D. This will work and I will tote my PC around to where ever with little fear of bending any more fins on my rads. Or bending anything else that I maybe should have been more careful of. You are probably right. I love how that case looks, and I may not enjoy making it work for me.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I need a case I can carry around with my watercooled PC not getting banged up. Handles are a plus. I REGRET NOTHING. I will somehow make this worth it. I'm not going to lie. I like the looks better then anything that would serve me better, like a 900D. This will work and I will tote my PC around to where ever with little fear of bending any more fins on my rads. Or bending anything else that I maybe should have been more careful of. You are probably right. I love how that case looks, and I may not enjoy making it work for me.


That thing is a behemoth. If you are looking for a PC to carry around this was a bad choice... Switching form factors is more idea than an ATX case switch.


----------



## jon666

bah...I'll make it work. I've carried around more for less.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I need a case I can carry around with my watercooled PC not getting banged up. Handles are a plus. I REGRET NOTHING. I will somehow make this worth it. I'm not going to lie. I like the looks better then anything that would serve me better, like a 900D. This will work and I will tote my PC around to where ever with little fear of bending any more fins on my rads. Or bending anything else that I maybe should have been more careful of. You are probably right. I love how that case looks, and I may not enjoy making it work for me.
> 
> 
> 
> That thing is a behemoth. If you are looking for a PC to carry around this was a bad choice... Switching form factors is more idea than an ATX case switch.
Click to expand...

This.

But with some minor modding, you can fit three 360s in it. But you better have a Pier crane on hand to move it.







lol

Personally I would rather have a TJ over the Cosmos II.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radmanhs

any of you know how to trick a pwm pump into running at max speed without a mobo? Some reason my pump worked fine without pwm yesterday, then I had to drain it and now it barely pulls any liquid at all


----------



## r9miner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> any of you know how to trick a pwm pump into running at max speed without a mobo? Some reason my pump worked fine without pwm yesterday, then I had to drain it and now it barely pulls any liquid at all


You just need to supply the pwm wire with 5v. How you will manage to do that I dont know...depends what kind of random adapters you have in your parts bin. I've done it with one of those old 3pin fan power to molex adapters rigged up (and connected carefully of course, dont put 12v on it by mistake).


----------



## jon666

If it weighs in under 90 lbs I am fine with it. So long as I can fit another pump in there somewhere to be cautious. Might even stray away from the Home Depot tubing for this case. I gotta price out the pump/rad stuff out first. Getting attached to Swiftech since they have proved their worth. Already nerfed my Ivy bridge motherboard, primary PCIE slot is fried. This case ought to last me a while.


----------



## Radmanhs

I managed to make it work, I let a little coolant out of the system through the drain that was attached to the pump block, which primed the pump and started working just fine.


----------



## fast_fate

Amateur Hour video made to celebrate build completion


----------



## lazyalam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> any of you know how to trick a pwm pump into running at max speed without a mobo? Some reason my pump worked fine without pwm yesterday, then I had to drain it and now it barely pulls any liquid at all


You just unintentionally solved my problem...


----------



## looniam




----------



## grayfox11

long time lurker first time poster. i come from south east asia and this is my first gaming and watercooling rig. im' open to advice or criticism but please be gentle









permision to join the club. @B NEGATIVE


Spoiler: My Rig!



CPU
Intel Core i7 6700K
RAM
Corsair Vengeance LPX
Cooling
EK-Coolstream PE240
Cooling
EK-Vardar F3-120 PWM (1850rpm)
Cooling
Thermaltake PETG Tube
Keyboard
Varmilo VBm87 Mint Green
Mouse
Logitech G403 Prodigy Wireless Gaming Mouse
Motherboard
SABERTOOTH Z170 MARK 1
RAM
Corsair Vengeance LPX
Cooling
EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360)
Cooling
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)
Cooling
EK-Supremacy EVO
Power
CORSAIR AX860 860W Power Supply
Graphics
MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Seahawk EK-X
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E500B/AM)
Cooling
Corsair SP120 PWM High Performance (2350rpm)
Cooling
Thermaltake Brass Fitting
OS
Windows 10 Pro
Case
Cooler Master Storm Stryker Case


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grayfox11*
> 
> long time lurker first time poster. i come from south east asia and this is my first gaming and watercooling rig. im' open to advice or criticism but please be gentle


I think that's a fantastic first watercooling build! Looks very clean, congrats!

I can tell they were hand bends on the tubing but I don't think that's as big of a deal as some do.

My only critique/suggestion would be to try to figure out a way to have your drain on the _lowest segment_ of your loop rather than coming from the upper radiator run. That way gravity will do 95% of the draining for you.

Maybe you planned on turning the case on it's side and draining from underneath... so might be useless advice.

Regardless cheers!


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> I need to invest in a decent camera for general photography. This is my new ITX that is pretty much done except for PSU cables. Had a lot of fun making this build and it is my first ITX rig!


Looks awesome! I'm considering the PC-O11, which is a very large E-ATX version of the Q37 you have. How do you like the case?


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Looks awesome! I'm considering the PC-O11, which is a very large E-ATX version of the Q37 you have. How do you like the case?


The case is great. I was in the Ncase before but couldn't water cool like I wanted to. The build quality and materials are premium. Lian Li is one of the only chassis manufactures that I will use.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> The case is great. I was in the Ncase before but couldn't water cool like I wanted to. The build quality and materials are premium. Lian Li is one of the only chassis manufactures that I will use.


I had the NCase previously as well, and I too couldn't really achieve temperatures I wanted with it water cooled. I decided to switch back to bigger form factors after that, but, the Phanteks Evolv ATX was still a little too small for my build. Glad to hear it holds up well. Does it have any HDD activity or power LED's? If so, what color are they?


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I had the NCase previously as well, and I too couldn't really achieve temperatures I wanted with it water cooled. I decided to switch back to bigger form factors after that, but, the Phanteks Evolv ATX was still a little too small for my build. Glad to hear it holds up well. Does it have any HDD activity or power LED's? If so, what color are they?


It is built into the Power Switch. Its blue.


----------



## grayfox11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I think that's a fantastic first watercooling build! Looks very clean, congrats!
> 
> I can tell they were hand bends on the tubing but I don't think that's as big of a deal as some do.
> 
> My only critique/suggestion would be to try to figure out a way to have your drain on the _lowest segment_ of your loop rather than coming from the upper radiator run. That way gravity will do 95% of the draining for you.
> 
> Maybe you planned on turning the case on it's side and draining from underneath... so might be useless advice.
> 
> Regardless cheers!


thanks, i will try to find a route to make the drain port as low as i can but lack of fittings and bending accessories makes it difficult to do. for now turning the case on its side is the way to go to drain it.

and i want to ask all of you watercooling guru in here, what fan controller soft ware do you use. my mobo bios doesn't recognize my gpu temp because my gpu is not asus. i want to try speedfan but i dont know if it support my mobo. and i refrain from using fan controller device as my mobo have enough fan header. (its sabertooth z170 mark 1 btw.) thanks in advance.


----------



## Streetdragon

Made a little upgrade with cardboard! Hiding the wire and all that stuff.

What 80cents can do xD





I think for two left hands and without disamble anything it endet pretty good


----------



## tomsonx1983

So i will show my rig








Still work in progress, loads to do left


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> So i will show my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still work in progress, loads to do left


woot like dad first time seeing a psu in a way like that


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> woot like dad first time seeing a psu in a way like that


Its in centre so u can flip case in to inverted atx its full custom made modular case, just slide in out componets traays in seconds


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> So i will show my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still work in progress, loads to do left


What case is this? This seems perfect for my needs...


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> What case is this? This seems perfect for my needs...


Its custom made case, scratch build


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Its custom made case, scratch build


It's amazing. Would you consider building more to sell?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Its custom made case, scratch build


Did you buy it from @Elder? Looks like the case he started building in 2012.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Did you buy it from @Elder? Looks like the case he started building in 2012.


This ^










Must be one of his prototypes.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1552241/scratch-build-black-ice-project-2xsr1-560-lc-custom-case/100_50#post_25410345


----------



## tomsonx1983

Yep, thats that case, i will post some photos from repair of case cose couriers let as down and case arrive to me in very bad condition, not elder fault btw, someone was mistreated in transport, like throw it down from loading bay or something


----------



## mus1mus

Congrats on being a receipient of his case. His work is pretty sick on that one.

Feel sorry for the damages from the courier though.


----------



## atomicus

How much was that case? Do they still make them?


----------



## paskowitz

I would pay good money for a case like that... damn...


----------



## tomsonx1983

small fortune








Elder its working on next revision
Some more pc porn will come


----------



## dwolvin

Agreeing with the crowd, hella nice case, is there a build log somewhere with the next revision?


----------



## grayfox11

amazing case.









build log and the teardown of the case will be awesome. make us imagine what to do with the case.








any effect on mounting the psu like that? i read that mount psu vertically can damage the psu fans? but i forgot where i read it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grayfox11*
> 
> amazing case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any effect on mounting the psu like that? i read that mount psu vertically can damage the psu fans? but i forgot where i read it.


You vertical mount every other fan, so why would a PSU fan be any different?


----------



## atomicus

What was/is the cost? Does anyone know? Obviously a lot, but how much is a lot?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> What was/is the cost? Does anyone know? Obviously a lot, but how much is a lot?


I would guess $1000 USD+. Getting a non mass produced case is going to be expensive. Especially if its made out of thick aluminum like his is.


----------



## paskowitz

It would be cool if we could get a "Massdrop" style arrangement going. Price based on quantity demanded. This is honestly one of the nicest, most well thought out custom cases I have ever seen.


----------



## grayfox11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You vertical mount every other fan, so why would a PSU fan be any different?


so no effect whatsoever i guess? im sorry for the noob question. im big fan of your works, thank you for answering my stupid question.


----------



## Sazexa

I'd pay about a grand for it with a silver exterior. Then I'd go get some custom glass panels made.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grayfox11*
> 
> so no effect whatsoever i guess? im sorry for the noob question. im big fan of your works, thank you for answering my stupid question.


It would be perfectly fine.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grayfox11*
> 
> thanks, i will try to find a route to make the drain port as low as i can but lack of fittings and bending accessories makes it difficult to do. for now turning the case on its side is the way to go to drain it.
> 
> and i want to ask all of you watercooling guru in here, what fan controller soft ware do you use. my mobo bios doesn't recognize my gpu temp because my gpu is not asus. i want to try speedfan but i dont know if it support my mobo. and i refrain from using fan controller device as my mobo have enough fan header. (its sabertooth z170 mark 1 btw.) thanks in advance.


I've been using Open Hardware Monitor to manage the fan speeds of my pump and fans (all PWM). I right click the fan control channel I want to change, set it to Manual control, set it to 90% percent temporarily so that I rename the channel to reflect the fans that are being controlled. Open Hardware Monitor can display a temperature graph so that I can keep an eye on the CPU core and GPU core temperatures.


----------



## tomsonx1983

We all wish to see more thes cases or mass drop, but its not easy, Elder doing great job, working on next projects so hopefull we will se more of amazing designs about costs, its cost a lot, a lot of money to fill up that case also
any one hava a xspc photon fo sale ?
or only top cap from non combo version ?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grayfox11*
> 
> so no effect whatsoever i guess? im sorry for the noob question. im big fan of your works, thank you for answering my stupid question.


In theory some cheaper fans can have issues, I don't remember all the details but I remember that there was something with fans based on a particular bearing (sleeve vs ball maybe?) design not functioning as well horizontally as they did vertically (or vice-versa).

However, no decent PSU manufacturer would use that type of fan because even in a large number of ordinary cases (mass produced ones) the PSU is mounted on it's side (like ~90% of HTPC cases). So a PSU fan should have been selected by the manufacturer to operate in every orientation... unless they don't want to be in business very long.


----------



## jura11

Here is my

Specs:

i7-5820k with 4.5GHz OC
ASRock X99 Extreme 6
96GB DDR4 2133MHz
GTX 1080 FE with EK WB
GTX Titan X Maxwell with EK WB
Seasonic XM2 1250W etc

and

EK-KIT X360 water cooling kit includes:
- universal CPU water block: EK-Supremacy EVO (incl. LED diode, mounting- & thermal material)
- radiator: EK-CoolStream XE 360 (Triple)
- radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) (3pcs)
- water pump: EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition (incl. pump holders)
- reservoir: EK-RES X3 150
- tubing: EK-DuraClear 9,5/12,7mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') (2 meters)
- compression fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 13/10mm - G1/4 Nickel (8 pcs)

Mayhem Havoc 240mm radiator
4x Phanteks PH-F120SP
8x G1/4 13/10 fittings XSPC

Aquaero 6 XT

Case is Phanteks Enthoo Primo







Thanks,Jura


----------



## grayfox11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> In theory some cheaper fans can have issues, I don't remember all the details but I remember that there was something with fans based on a particular bearing (sleeve vs ball maybe?) design not functioning as well horizontally as they did vertically (or vice-versa).
> 
> However, no decent PSU manufacturer would use that type of fan because even in a large number of ordinary cases (mass produced ones) the PSU is mounted on it's side (like ~90% of HTPC cases). So a PSU fan should have been selected by the manufacturer to operate in every orientation... unless they don't want to be in business very long.


yes, this one, about the how the lubricants lubricated the bearing. i guess the article is for low end psu or the article i read is outdated. thanks for the information.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Currently trying to source a monoblock for my Rampage black.

What is the general opinion on the Bitspower one ? ... I really want the EK one but there is no way I will still find one of those.


----------



## DarthBaggins

BitsPower mono is junk, stay far away from it


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> BitsPower mono is junk, stay far away from it


Thanks for the headsup ... I appreciate it.

So you would recommend getting those Power Delivery/SB Block combo things and tying it in with a CPU block ?


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Currently trying to source a monoblock for my Rampage black.
> 
> What is the general opinion on the Bitspower one ? ... I really want the EK one but there is no way I will still find one of those.


http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Watercool-HEATKILLER-reg;-MB-ASUS-RAMPAGE-IV-KIT-X-Black-Edition-Cu_45685.html

and nickel one

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Watercool-HEATKILLER-reg;-MB-ASUS-RAMPAGE-IV-KIT-X-Black-Edition-Ni_45686.html


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> BitsPower mono is junk, stay far away from it


not that i don't believe you but any reason(s) specifically?

that pretty much blows my interest in the Maximus IX Extreme later this year.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> not that i don't believe you but any reason(s) specifically?
> 
> that pretty much blows my interest in the Maximus IX Extreme later this year.


it looking like a tape deck ruined it for me (thanks, ceadder... i think)


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Currently trying to source a monoblock for my Rampage black.
> 
> What is the general opinion on the Bitspower one ? ... I really want the EK one but there is no way I will still find one of those.


R4BE?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> R4BE?


Yeah, I have the R4BE ... Was looking for the EK clear acrylic monoblock but sadly cant find it anywhere ... Now I am searching for any blocks really (my power delivery is getting way to hot to touch, so I want to get it cooled asap)


----------



## DrakeZ

first time with hard tube, it's really challenging indeed, and because of my idiocy i made my loop leaked during leak testing, thanks god so far my motherboard still working well

next is i should change my pump first, it's turned out EK DCP 2.2 can't handle that loop, the water flow is very weak









and next is to replace my GPU to RX 480 + full block, hope on this year i can complete it


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## tomsonx1983

I cant complain on my flow


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*
> 
> first time with hard tube, it's really challenging indeed, and because of my idiocy i made my loop leaked during leak testing, thanks god so far my motherboard still working well
> 
> next is i should change my pump first, it's turned out EK DCP 2.2 can't handle that loop, the water flow is very weak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and next is to replace my GPU to RX 480 + full block, hope on this year i can complete it.


I hear you, I have the early version of that pump and I want to change it for a dual Alphacool DC-LT 2600 in a bayres (at least that's the current thinking). I like the idea of a dual pump in case one dies while away since it's also folding 24/7.

Has anyone used a 2600? I have not seen a review of this version, and I get that it coming with no top lowers cost, but $20 is crazy.


----------



## Radmanhs

Feel like showing off my first watercooled build... So here you go


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Feel like showing off my first watercooled build... So here you go
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks good man







is that the 303?


----------



## Radmanhs

yep


----------



## emsj86

can we get some more pictures of that build from further away i like it good job. where are the cables from?


----------



## Radmanhs

I can get you more pics, I made them all by hand


----------



## Radmanhs

Unfortunately, you have to deal with potato pics since I dont have a real camera


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks for the headsup ... I appreciate it.
> 
> So you would recommend getting those Power Delivery/SB Block combo things and tying it in with a CPU block ?


I know my block is a bit newer, as it's for BW-E, but I have the EK ASUS R5E10 monoblock for the Rampage 5 Edition 10 board. It keeps a 6950X OC'd from 3.0 to 4.0 at 1.25V under 60C on full load, with the board generally capping out around 55C-ish.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Yeah, I have the R4BE ... Was looking for the EK clear acrylic monoblock but sadly cant find it anywhere ... Now I am searching for any blocks really (my power delivery is getting way to hot to touch, so I want to get it cooled asap)


I have a used EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock - Nickel that was in my system for abour a year before a lightning strike fried it a few months ago. I believe the block is fine, though it needs cleaning. I just removed it from the board and all the hardware is available, except I lost 1 plastic washer and you will need to get replacement thermal pads. I also do not have the Torx T20 key for the latch mechanism anymore, but you can use a hex driver that is close and it should work.

I can let it go for the cost of shipping. PM me if interested and I will investigate the shipping cost to SA.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I have a used EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock - Nickel that was in my system for abour a year before a lightning strike fried it a few months ago. I believe the block is fine, though it needs cleaning. I just removed it from the board and all the hardware is available, except I lost 1 plastic washer and you will need to get replacement thermal pads. I also do not have the Torx T20 key for the latch mechanism anymore, but you can use a hex driver that is close and it should work.
> 
> I can let it go for the cost of shipping. PM me if interested and I will investigate the shipping cost to SA.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude, you are like a giant life saver. Will PM you now


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> So i will show my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still work in progress, loads to do left


That looks amazing =O

Curious how that case compares size wise to the TJ07.. I'm trying to do something slightly similar where I put the psu in the front and have two 480mm rads as filtered intakes in the bottom, with 480mm of exhaust on the top and the two 92mm's on the back.

I received the new smoked side window, front panel, and filtered side vents the other day from coldzero.. makes a pretty huge improvement to the looks of the case IMO.

I still need to get an actual camera too at some point, this is the best pic I could manage =(


Spoiler: Warning: Potato Quality Pic Below


----------



## looniam

^ maybe the quality of the potato pic improves with a lighter background?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ^ maybe the quality of the potato pic improves with more light?


FTFY


----------



## looniam

stinker.


----------



## Elyminator

I joined the p3 bandwagon.... but it doesn't have enough rads.. sooo


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ^ maybe the quality of the potato pic improves with a lighter background?


That was all the light I had lol


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ^ maybe the quality of the potato pic improves with a lighter background?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was all the light I had lol
Click to expand...

B-Neg is corrrect about the lighting but what comes to mind is a dark case on a black sofa. got a table with a lighter colored wall in the background?


----------



## Radmanhs

I'm surrounded by boring white walls, but there isn't a chance I am going to move this anywhere


----------



## Revan654

Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1605749/build-log-project-ice-dragon-caselabs-s8s-z170-watercooled-i7-6700k-gtx-1080-4k

Starting to re-build my S8S (4K Gaming Rig). Here is my First officially bend (Never done bending before). I used 90 Degree fittings on everything last time.


----------



## mfranco702

Alright guys, some weird stuff happened, after finishing assembling my loop I noticed that the CPU only dropped about 7C, from 74C to 67C in full load while rendering a video, while gaming pretty much stayed the same, around 55C, idles at 30-35C but both of my cards went from 68C to 42C.
This is my first time experimenting with a custom loop and I'm not familiar with everything, Honestly i was expecting a bigger difference in the CPU temps since im using a bigger radiator and pump, which makes me wonder that my old H100i used to do the job fair ok.

I have re seated the block twice and used two different kinds of TIM, but theres no difference, I would lie to mention that I was using a push/pull config with the H100i whereas Im only using push with my EK Coolstream 360 rad, would that be the difference? is it possible that heat is not dissipating properly in that radiator?

here are some specs and facts about my rig, please any help or advise will be much appreciated.

i7 5960X @ 4.4 GHz 1.29V with EK Supremacy EVO Copper
DUAL 1080s STRIX ROG @ 1800 MHz with EK FC1080 Blocks
DUAL radiators EK Coolstream XE 360mm X 60mm thick cooled by 3 Corsair ML 120s and EK Coolstream CE 280MM X 45mm thick cooled by 2 Corsair ML 140s
EK XTOP ELITE 3.2 PWM pump + EK RES X3 150.
Distilled water plus XSPC ECX red concentrate/primochill primoflex advanced LRT clear

Loop works as follows: pump to 280mm rad/bottom card/top card/360mm rad/cpu block/reservoir/pump.


----------



## r9miner

@mfranco702

I think your temps are in line with what I would expect, maybe just a tad high. Yeah you "only" dropped 7C but you also have 1080 SLI in the same loop. I'm curious if you ever tried torturing your CPU with something like Prime95 AVX or IBT on the H100i. Custom water makes a bigger difference the more heat you create, not gonna be a huge difference at mid level OC/normal usage.

That being said you can probably get that CPU to 4.5 or 4.6 comfortably now and it might not have been possible with good temps on the h100i.

The other big factor is fan RPMs and noise. If you're down 7C at the same or less noise thats a win. Thick rads want more air so maybe your RPMs are too low to get the most performance out of them.

Edit: might want to specify your fan config, in the pic it looks like you have 5 blowing out and 3 blowing in, top rad might want more air feeding it (assuming solid side panel, if you're testing open then fan config will not make a difference).


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r9miner*
> 
> @mfranco702
> 
> I think your temps are in line with what I would expect, maybe just a tad high. Yeah you "only" dropped 7C but you also have 1080 SLI in the same loop. I'm curious if you ever tried torturing your CPU with something like Prime95 AVX or IBT on the H100i. Custom water makes a bigger difference the more heat you create, not gonna be a huge difference at mid level OC/normal usage.
> 
> That being said you can probably get that CPU to 4.5 or 4.6 comfortably now and it might not have been possible with good temps on the h100i.
> 
> The other big factor is fan RPMs and noise. If you're down 7C at the same or less noise thats a win. Thick rads want more air so maybe your RPMs are too low to get the most performance out of them.
> 
> Edit: might want to specify your fan config, in the pic it looks like you have 5 blowing out and 3 blowing in, top rad might want more air feeding it (assuming solid side panel, if you're testing open then fan config will not make a difference).


Yes, radiator fans are all blowing out, and those TT riing are blowing in to make airflow a little more balanced, fans all go to full speed when cpu reaches 70C, so while gaming which is mostly what I do, they perform at 70%, in idle they are at 20% which is really quiet.

I did not try the cpu before with any of those extreme tests, but my old H100i was running in push/pull with 4 SP120s, also my fluid is always between 30-35C, probe is connected to a G1/4 port in the reservoir, right after exiting the cpu block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> *Yes, radiator fans are all blowing out,* and those TT riing are blowing in to make airflow a little more balanced, fans all go to full speed when cpu reaches 70C, so while gaming which is mostly what I do, they perform at 70%, in idle they are at 20% which is really quiet.
> 
> I did not try the cpu before with any of those extreme tests, but my old H100i was running in push/pull with 4 SP120s, also my fluid is always between 30-35C, probe is connected to a G1/4 port in the reservoir, right after exiting the cpu block.


Flip them,you want rads intaking from cold external air,you dont want to be reusing internal case air.


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flip them,you want rads intaking from cold external air,you dont want to be reusing internal case air.


Ill try that and I'll report back, Im assuming the fans have to be mounted then in the other side of the radiator, pushing air through it?


----------



## r9miner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> Ill try that and I'll report back, Im assuming the fans have to be mounted then in the other side of the radiator, pushing air through it?


If the fans are static pressure optimized they are best in "push" which would mean yes they need to go on the other side. Worth a try to just flip the fans first and try a "pull" config since thats alot less work.

Now that you say you have a temp probe showing the coolant at 30-35 your rads are probably doing fine as is though, thats probably only about 10C above ambient temps in your room. Any tweaks you make at this point are only going to net you a couple degrees at most on the CPU, I say just push the OC and be happy with the temps.


----------



## Sazexa

I've never had a problem with B Negative; he's always been pretty nice in replies about my questions lolol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I've never had a problem with B Negative; he's always been pretty nice in replies about my questions lolol


----------



## toolmaker03

http://imgur.com/a/UU4oE



just finished the upgrades on this build.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1615072/cpu-and-radiator-upgrade-on-water-cooled-rig

here is the build log.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/UU4oE
> 
> 
> 
> just finished the upgrades on this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1615072/cpu-and-radiator-upgrade-on-water-cooled-rig
> 
> here is the build log.


I'm truly bloody farking speechless . . .









D.


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm truly bloody farking speechless . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


well it has a 12LPM flow rate and a 2C to 3C delta T at load, what more could I ask for.









as for looks, this is the best looking build out of three.


----------



## madweazl

Planned changes moving forward:

Run a 90° fitting from the pump to the upper radiator to move the upper most tube further up so it doesnt block the view of the monoblock
Add a fill port directly to the upper radiator and a drain directly to the lower radiator using the now rear facing ports of the radiators; currently a nightmare to fill, bleed, and drain.
Rerun both lines to the GPU
Sleeve the GPU power cables
Add some lighting

https://flic.kr/p/QWMTcS


----------



## B NEGATIVE

All that money wasted cooling an FX chip and a pair of Fermi......

Some things cannot be unseen.


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All that money wasted cooling an FX chip and a pair of Fermi......
> 
> Some things cannot be unseen.


I look at it as a investment, it's not like I will need to change or upgrade the water cooling, when I upgrade the PC system inside.
I will most likely be able to still use the CPU block, and getting new GPU blocks, for new GPU's, is pretty standard for any custom water cooling build.


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All that money wasted cooling an FX chip and a pair of Fermi......
> 
> Some things cannot be unseen.


Arent all of the custom loops a waste of money? Hobbies are simply a good reason to waste time and money.


----------



## prznar1

Not rly tho. There are several things that make LC good and way better than aircooling. System temperature is way lower, air inside of case is also way lower than air cooled system, Better temperatures on single components. All this makes your system either more efficient (lower voltage to achive same clocks, or higher performance. And now with KB we are going back to the times when liquid cooling was meaning higher OC with WAY better temps. So liquid cooling is not just a waste of money. Waste of money is a 3d printed "modding"


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Arent all of the custom loops a waste of money? Hobbies are simply a good reason to waste time and money.


Pretty much. I do love it though.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Arent all of the custom loops a waste of money? Hobbies are simply a good reason to waste time and money.


I do Custom loops for complete silence or close to it and still have good temp on all my hardware. Air just can not accomplish that.


----------



## Cannonkill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I do Custom loops for complete silence or close to it and still have good temp on all my hardware. Air just can not accomplish that.


Or you could just stay with air, put all fans on high and put the computer far away. just use some long cables.


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Not rly tho. There are several things that make LC good and way better than aircooling. System temperature is way lower, air inside of case is also way lower than air cooled system, Better temperatures on single components. All this makes your system either more efficient (lower voltage to achive same clocks, or higher performance. And now with KB we are going back to the times when liquid cooling was meaning higher OC with WAY better temps. So liquid cooling is not just a waste of money. Waste of money is a 3d printed "modding"


I'm smelling what you're shoveling and one of the biggest reasons I went LC was to eliminate noise while maintaining a high level of performance but looks had every bit as much to do with it. I have as much in the LC as I do in the actual hardware. I could have bought higher end equipment but there wasnt any fun it that. For the overwhelming majority, this is simply an enjoyable hobby.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> I'm smelling what you're shoveling and one of the biggest reasons I went LC was to eliminate noise while maintaining a high level of performance but looks had every bit as much to do with it. I have as much in the LC as I do in the actual hardware. I could have bought higher end equipment but there wasnt any fun it that. For the overwhelming majority, this is simply an enjoyable hobby.


it all depends on what you want to achive. My loop is quite cheap and is universal because of gpux3 core block from watercool. Now with 303 case from inwin i dont event have to worry about heatsinks on ram + that cool silence when you run your pc on full blow







liquid cooling is not only about wasting money







sure its expensive but if you do it right, it wont ruin your wallet. My loop cost is somewhere around 300$ at best. And im running it from x58 age without bigger changes. Only radiator was changed because my old 60mm fat rad would not fit in to new case. I guess it was worth it and while selling my old radiator i event got more $$$ than i paid for it.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> Alright guys, some weird stuff happened, after finishing assembling my loop I noticed that the CPU only dropped about 7C, from 74C to 67C in full load while rendering a video, while gaming pretty much stayed the same, around 55C, idles at 30-35C but both of my cards went from 68C to 42C.
> This is my first time experimenting with a custom loop and I'm not familiar with everything, Honestly i was expecting a bigger difference in the CPU temps since im using a bigger radiator and pump, which makes me wonder that my old H100i used to do the job fair ok.
> 
> I have re seated the block twice and used two different kinds of TIM, but theres no difference, I would lie to mention that I was using a push/pull config with the H100i whereas Im only using push with my EK Coolstream 360 rad, would that be the difference? is it possible that heat is not dissipating properly in that radiator?
> 
> here are some specs and facts about my rig, please any help or advise will be much appreciated.
> 
> i7 5960X @ 4.4 GHz 1.29V with EK Supremacy EVO Copper
> DUAL 1080s STRIX ROG @ 1800 MHz with EK FC1080 Blocks
> DUAL radiators EK Coolstream XE 360mm X 60mm thick cooled by 3 Corsair ML 120s and EK Coolstream CE 280MM X 45mm thick cooled by 2 Corsair ML 140s
> EK XTOP ELITE 3.2 PWM pump + EK RES X3 150.
> Distilled water plus XSPC ECX red concentrate/primochill primoflex advanced LRT clear
> 
> Loop works as follows: pump to 280mm rad/bottom card/top card/360mm rad/cpu block/reservoir/pump.


Hi there

I'm running very similar setup to yours,I've used as base EK X360 Extreme kit and added 240mm 60mmm thick Mayhem Havoc on this one I'm running Phanteks PH-F120SP fans in push/pull and on XE360 I'm running as push EK supplied Vardar 120mm 1850rpm fans, although I'm running only i7-5820k at 4.5Ghz at 1.279v and GPU I'm running GTX1080 and GTX Titan X, PC is used mostly for rendering

I have done several tests and benches, GPU never go above 36°C on GTX1080(usually sits at 34-35°C) and Titan X sits mostly at 32-33°C,these temps are in rendering session

Ambient temp is around 21-23°C and water temps never goes above 24-25°C, I monitor that on Aquaero 6XT

CPU temps are at 4.5Ghz during the rendering at 60-62°C(temps is at PKG, PKG usually is higher than actual core temp) and in benchmarks, my temps are bit higher, in Intel XTU my temps on PKG are at 64-68°C after 1 hour and in AIDA my temps are in region 68-71°C

What I have tried and run Corsair H100i v2,rendering temps has been at 4.4GHz in 72-76°C at similar ambient temperature,in benches temps has raised to 82°C and trying to run 4.5Ghz on H100i has been simple impossible as temps has been in rendering at 76°C and bench temps has been close to 90°C

Then I've run NH-D15 with which I've been pretty happy as temps in rendering has been pretty close which I'm getting, although in benches temps has been in region of 72-75°C

Not sure but what are yours ambient temps, can you try run Corona benchmark and can you post yours temperatures

Hope this helps and good luck there

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Sazexa

Hey everyone. So, I'll likely be making a change in my life where I won't be around often to really use my PC. Now, considering it's got a custom loop, that concerns me a bit regard growth/blockage for when I come home. I figured on doing something like a yearly cleaning, since it won't get much flow. But also I told my fiance to turn the PC on once or twice a week, and let it run for an hour or so, then shut it off.

Any tips or advice?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

You guys do some amazing efforts here but dual cpu / gpu loops are the go with mad radiator set ups

Ive posted these before ...





I haven't altered it in years


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All that money wasted cooling an FX chip and a pair of Fermi......
> 
> Some things cannot be unseen.
> 
> 
> 
> Arent all of the custom loops a waste of money? Hobbies are simply a good reason to waste time and money.
Click to expand...

That would be a resounding no. Custom loops can be transferred from one system to another rather cheaply. Even when changing it's just a MB upgrade. Changing socket manufacturers from Intel to AMD or vice versa is the same. Changing your case? That too is pretty cheaply done.

Bout the only thing that drives costs up is GPU blocks, unless you're running something like Thermospheres.

Atop this issue is a need for silence. If you want a system that remains quiet at higher temps, watercooling is the only way to go short of a 100% heatsink solution.







lol

On the FX chip issue? Was that a FX system being shown off? I looked an all I saw were Intel branded chips in the sig rigs and of course the 580s.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

9590 is a waste of money since the 8350&8370 can be OC'd using less voltage and gaining better clocks. Plus the 580's are a very dated set of GPU's now 4 gens behind. I would say the rig needs some major cable management done as well.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That would be a resounding no. Custom loops can be transferred from one system to another rather cheaply. Even when changing it's just a MB upgrade. Changing socket manufacturers from Intel to AMD or vice versa is the same. Changing your case? That too is pretty cheaply done.
> 
> Bout the only thing that drives costs up is GPU blocks, *unless you're running something like Thermospheres.*
> 
> ~Ceadder












Just upgraded from a GTX 980 Strix to a GTX 1080 Windforce. Didn't have to spend $150 on a new block. Spend about $5 on some cheap aluminum sinks for the VRMs and I was good to go.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey everyone. So, I'll likely be making a change in my life where I won't be around often to really use my PC. Now, considering it's got a custom loop, that concerns me a bit regard growth/blockage for when I come home. I figured on doing something like a yearly cleaning, since it won't get much flow. But also I told my fiance to turn the PC on once or twice a week, and let it run for an hour or so, then shut it off.
> 
> Any tips or advice?


Turning it into a BOINC or [email protected] rig would solve the problem of having to worry about growth in the lines.... Brings the added thoughts of a higher power bill though, but it would be for science!

... And a warmer room


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> well it has a 12LPM flow rate and a 2C to 3C delta T at load, what more could I ask for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as for looks, this is the best looking build out of three.


I can understand the amount of radiators. GTX580s. I still remembering folding with those on air coolers. Talk about heat dumps. Though, the cards were useful for a room heater.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Turning it into a BOINC or [email protected] rig would solve the problem of having to worry about growth in the lines.... Brings the added thoughts of a higher power bill though, but it would be for science!
> 
> ... And a warmer room


That's actually not a bad idea at all. Considering the processing power of my rig, too.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just upgraded from a GTX 980 Strix to a GTX 1080 Windforce. Didn't have to spend $150 on a new block. Spend about $5 on some cheap aluminum sinks for the VRMs and I was good to go.


So you can use the Thermosphere blocks on some of those cards! Does it just have to be a reference PCB or similar? I think some of the compatible cards might not be listed on EK's site yet, or maybe I missed them.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> So you can use the Thermosphere blocks on some of those cards! Does it just have to be a reference PCB or similar? I think some of the compatible cards might not be listed on EK's site yet, or maybe I missed them.


GPU core block are good, but try to finding a card with stock vrm heatsink. Aluminum heatsinks attacked to ram or vrms will fall off, and stock heatsink is always screwed on to the card.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> So you can use the Thermosphere blocks on some of those cards! Does it just have to be a reference PCB or similar? I think some of the compatible cards might not be listed on EK's site yet, or maybe I missed them.
> 
> 
> 
> GPU core block are good*, but try to finding a card with stock vrm heatsink*. Aluminum heatsinks attacked to ram or vrms will fall off, and stock heatsink is always screwed on to the card.
Click to expand...

*that.* and i'll mention using a zip tie(s) to attach a fan:


though mind you, if going thermoshere w/evga that has a midplate, you will need to mod the bracket but easy peasy:



i have the EK vga supremacy and didn't need that.


----------



## JCArch

Yeah, I've seen a few instances where on EVGA cards there is no modding needed to accommodate the Thermospehre blocks and it looks fantastic with the midplate on. I'm looking forward to installing it on my 980 ti.


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> That's actually not a bad idea at all. Considering the processing power of my rig, too.


The Forum Folding War is coming up next month, so you should head over to the [email protected] forum and give that a look if you are interested!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> GPU core block are good, but try to finding a card with stock vrm heatsink. *Aluminum heatsinks attacked to vrms will fall off*, and stock heatsink is always screwed on to the card.


Not in inverted ATX.









Watercooling the VRAM is a complete waste. Under heavy load they are maybe 10 degrees higher than ambient.


----------



## looniam




----------



## prznar1

Damn you autocorrect. Attached, not attacked


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah for the FFW join us on Second Hand Hounds, we have music and some good cookies







lol


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah for the FFW join us on Second Hand Hounds, we have music and some good cookies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Nah, join Team BOINC we're nuts but we're fun to be around AND we know what we're doing


----------



## DarthBaggins

I don't know if you completely know what you're doing I mean you do run BOINC over [email protected] lol


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I don't know if you completely know what you're doing I mean you do run BOINC over [email protected] lol


We don't need [email protected], we have [email protected]


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I don't know if you completely know what you're doing I mean you do run BOINC over [email protected] lol


What Deedaz said.







BOINC also doesn't penalize you (anywhere near as severely) if you pause the client to game, or reboot, etc. ^_^

So yup, I know what I'm doing, just have a different, more "scene route" version of it all - I'll eventually have a card dedicated to [email protected]








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> We don't need [email protected], we have [email protected]


And [email protected], plus MindModeling, and then there's also TN-Grid, not to mention GPUgrid. There has to be at least one or two more I'm missing that's still active, like World Community Grid... ^_^


----------



## DarthBaggins

If I'm running BOINC I run WCG that's it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Nah, join *Team BOINC* we're nuts but we're fun to be around AND we know what we're doing


----------



## DarthBaggins

I see how it is BNeg lol I know Magoo would want you to join Second Hand Hounds

Also I've been debating on swapping CPU blocks from my current Cuplex Kryos Delrin to a Copper Acetal Supremacy EVO since it would match with my purchase.p/tubing & fittings only non EK components I'm running are the Aqualis Pro res and HwL Nemesis 360


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I see how it is BNeg lol I know Magoo would want you to join Second Hand Hounds
> 
> Also I've been debating on swapping CPU blocks from my current Cuplex Kryos Delrin to a Copper Acetal Supremacy EVO since it would match with my purchase.p/tubing & fittings only non EK components I'm running are the Aqualis Pro res and HwL Nemesis 360


Its only because BOINC favoured my SR2 when I had it running,24 threads of awesome........


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah BOINC does love cores, the 5930k does a pretty good job on WCG when I run it.


----------



## Sazexa

So, I'm here once again, looking for some opinions because I'm too darn indecisive. lol

I'm going to be using carbon fiber tubing for my next project. It'll be inside a Lian Li PC-O11 chasis, which has a front and side glass panel. The rest of the interior will be pretty much matte black with satin-silver (like a Macbook Pro's finish) accents, and RGB LED accents. I want to use carbon fiber tubing. Do you guys think I should go with matte or glossy carbon fiber? Examples of each:





Leaning towards glossy because I like how it appears to have a deeper black to it over the matte. But if nothing else is going to be reflective or glossy on the inside, I don't know if it would look out of place or if it would actually highlight the carbon fiber/accentuate it more. What do you guys think?


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So, I'm here once again, looking for some opinions because I'm too darn indecisive. lol
> 
> I'm going to be using carbon fiber tubing for my next project. It'll be inside a Lian Li PC-O11 chasis, which has a front and side glass panel. The rest of the interior will be pretty much matte black with satin-silver (like a Macbook Pro's finish) accents, and RGB LED accents. I want to use carbon fiber tubing. Do you guys think I should go with matte or glossy carbon fiber? Examples of each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leaning towards glossy because I like how it appears to have a deeper black to it over the matte. But if nothing else is going to be reflective or glossy on the inside, I don't know if it would look out of place or if it would actually highlight the carbon fiber/accentuate it more. What do you guys think?


I would go with the glossy, I think you'd get more out of it with the LED lighting. I think the matte would look kind of dull with light on it compared to the glossy.


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded on Glossy- light on a matt surface is notably diminished.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I would go with the glossy, I think you'd get more out of it with the LED lighting. I think the matte would look kind of dull with light on it compared to the glossy.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Seconded on Glossy- light on a matt surface is notably diminished.


Alright, sounds like a plan.

I've also been considering doing glass tubing that's frosted too. Since I figure the LED's might diffuse through the glass in a neat way if it's frosted, but, I think carbon fiber would be a bit more unique. As I said, I'm too damn indecisive lmao


----------



## looniam

why get carbon fiber just to make it look plastic?

i mean, it's your rig and your choice but . . .


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> why get carbon fiber just to make it look plastic?
> 
> i mean, it's your rig and your choice but . . .


What do you mean to look plastic? It's real carbon fiber. I don't know if you've seen it in real life, but it doesn't really look like plastic. Besides, the automotive and aerospace enthusiast in me loves it, since it's used on so many of the other things that hold my interest. lol


----------



## dwolvin

I'm going to go ahead and be terrible; Shiny carbon and copper would look cool with red lighting...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Carbon fiber ftw!


----------



## Sazexa

On a side note, does anyone know if the interior of the carbon fiber would need some kind of coating? I'm curious if so.


----------



## dwolvin

... Well, that depends on where you are getting the carbon fiber, but I'm going to say that I can't imagine any epoxy in use would have trouble with distilled water... Where are you going to get the tubing?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> ... Well, that depends on where you are getting the carbon fiber, but I'm going to say that I can't imagine any epoxy in use would have trouble with distilled water... Where are you going to get the tubing?


I'm likely going to buy this tubing from Amazon.

A meter for only around $20 seems like a good price, and it has good reviews. I've asked the seller if it has any coating internally, but, I'm sure it'll take a few days to answer.

I'll likely be using a mixture of distilled water and EK's E-Koolant. Like maybe a liter of E-Koolant, and the rest would be distilled water.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> why get carbon fiber just to make it look plastic?
> 
> i mean, it's your rig and your choice but . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean to look plastic? It's real carbon fiber. I don't know if you've seen it in real life, but it doesn't really look like plastic. Besides, the automotive and aerospace enthusiast in me loves it, since it's used on so many of the other things that hold my interest. lol
Click to expand...

maybe what i saw in the image isn't accurate?



looks like CF with a plastic coating/sleeve esp. where the light is reflecting.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> maybe what i saw in the image isn't accurate?
> 
> 
> 
> looks like CF with a plastic coating/sleeve esp. where the light is reflecting.


It might just be how the picture looks. They're real carbon fiber with a gloss finish on the exterior, likely an epoxy or clear-coat of some kind of UV-resistant paint.


----------



## looniam

not saying it isn't carbon fiber and yeah *the coating* _to me_ makes it look like plastic.

do what you want though.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> not saying it isn't carbon fiber and yeah *the coating* _to me_ makes it look like plastic.
> 
> do what you want though.


Well, the stuff is cheap enough. I'm going to order some in matte and glossy, see how I like them. If they look bad, I can always switch plans to glass.


----------



## kmatczak1117

Bit of outdated hardware but still


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmatczak1117*
> 
> Bit of outdated hardware but still


How do you like the Parvum case? I find them pretty unique. But I'm afraid of getting acrylic as a case. If they did machined aluminum I'd like buy their cases.


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> not saying it isn't carbon fiber and yeah *the coating* _to me_ makes it look like plastic.
> 
> do what you want though.


Many carbon fiber items are coated so they dont splinter/frey. The inside of the tube looks carbon to me. And of course they're going to do what they want, it's their setup


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> not saying it isn't carbon fiber and yeah *the coating* _to me_ makes it look like plastic.
> 
> do what you want though.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the stuff is cheap enough. I'm going to order some in matte and glossy, see how I like them. If they look bad, I can always switch plans to glass.
Click to expand...

samples are good, esp spending an amout cash.









i personally like dull(er) reflections, more ambient. except from material such as silver, gold, copper and brass; then those need to reflect as well as a laser cutting through a retina.


----------



## kmatczak1117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> How do you like the Parvum case? I find them pretty unique. But I'm afraid of getting acrylic as a case. If they did machined aluminum I'd like buy their cases.


Honestly man its pretty sturdy I love mine this x1.0 is about 2 years old and its still in excellent shape. I had one chunk of acrylic break out of the black front panel which was completely my fault for disassembling a panel wrong and pulling on the black panel on accident but I managed to fix it with acrylic cement and its been fine since I'm thinking about upgrading to the x2.0 soon probably as soon as I get this bonus check from work parvum cases have been the only cases I've owned aside from an ncase m1 which I ultimately sold because I loved the layout and look of my parvum a lot more. The quality is amazing and the fact that they can be customized so easily in just about any color you could possibly want makes it so much more appealing to me.


----------



## iandroo888

can pump/res combo be at the lowest point in a loop? tryin to see how i can mod my case and put my thick 360 into the case but that would move my pump/res from close to highest point in loop to lowest... using a D5 pump


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> can pump/res combo be at the lowest point in a loop? tryin to see how i can mod my case and put my thick 360 into the case but that would move my pump/res from close to highest point in loop to lowest... using a D5 pump


Yep, wont make a difference.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Yep, wont make a difference.


thanks !


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded- all carbon fiber is made of is a fiber (carbon in this case) in an epoxy (plastic). Whichever side is on the mold or surface used for layup will be shiny unless purposely made not so (shiny = easy to release after it sets). Think of CF as high-tech fiberglass.

And it looks like your question was answered- someone is using it for a pond setup so you should (*maybe/probably/your money) be ok. Just test the loop a while! (or setup a loop outside and just run it a week).

Heh- sorry, I didn't see the entire page of replies.


----------



## Ceadderman

Search OCN for "Carbon Rose". It's an InWin Mod that uses CF tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## looniam

i though i saw one w/CF tubing in this thread with UV lighting a few months ago.
http://www.overclock.net/g/a/704876/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/flat/1/page/0/
but couldn't find it. still nice to see a buttload of nice looking loops and parts. and a few assorted humorous memes/gifs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Very yellow!
How did you go about removing the heat pipe from the I/O heatsink


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just snapped it flush and taped it,it will never be aircooled anyway


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just snapped it flush and taped it,it will never be aircooled anyway


Ahh, okay. So yours is similar to mine then, as well. I was considering maybe drilling out the rest of the pip, but, it's not worth it. I'll likely either do as you did, tape, or paint, over it.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


What Paint did you use for that?


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just snapped it flush and taped it,it will never be aircooled anyway


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Ahh, okay. So yours is similar to mine then, as well. I was considering maybe drilling out the rest of the pip, but, it's not worth it. I'll likely either do as you did, tape, or paint, over it.


This, don't even bother. I might just be a noob, but after half a day of trying to make the glue/cement/whatever brittle with acetone (and other stuff) followed by heating it up it never budged. There are most definitely people out there with more skill than me that probably had a much easier time.

In the end I just ended up defacing the sides of the poor heatsink. The good thing is since its on the sides they will never be seen when looking straight at it or in the case, but it still bothers me. It does sound like you have already removed the heatpipe in a similar fashion, so half just putting it out there for other people.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> This, don't even bother. I might just be a noob, but after half a day of trying to make the glue/cement/whatever brittle with acetone (and other stuff) followed by heating it up it never budged. There are most definitely people out there with more skill than me that probably had a much easier time.
> 
> In the end I just ended up defacing the sides of the poor heatsink. The good thing is since its on the sides they will never be seen when looking straight at it or in the case, but it still bothers me. It does sound like you have already removed the heatpipe in a similar fashion, so half just putting it out there for other people.


I also tried for a few days with many different materials and methods. I even got to try it on two boards also, as my first R5E10 had a few RAM slots die. No luck the second time either.


----------



## Revan654

With Two radiators (Left & Right) & one radiator above(Very close to one another). What would be the best airflow path? I was thinking Left & Right as in-take and above radiator would be exhaust.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> can pump/res combo be at the lowest point in a loop? tryin to see how i can mod my case and put my thick 360 into the case but that would move my pump/res from close to highest point in loop to lowest... using a D5 pump
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, wont make a difference.
Click to expand...

this is a very misunderstood part of water cooling. there is no top or bottom. think of your loop as a circle. you never have an up or a down, for where ever you put the pump in your circle there is as much up, as down. thus they cancel each other out, there is other factors that needs to be looked at, but not when designing most pcs.


----------



## steadly2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is a very misunderstood part of water cooling. there is no top or bottom. think of your loop as a circle. you never have an up or a down, for where ever you put the pump in your circle there is as much up, as down. thus they cancel each other out, there is other factors that needs to be looked at, but not when designing most pcs.


Except for filling it. Can't have the pump above the water. ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Sure you can if you flip your system or have a length of flex tubing at the end of a funnel.









~Ceadder


----------



## madweazl

My system is a pain to fill, bleed, and drain but it works well.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I actually sat there gaping at it for a few seconds. That looks fantastic; I love the way the color pops.


----------



## feznz

Just got a question about 12v vs 24v with D5/655 pumps I have always run my pump on 24v

I have a friend and we both built our systems about the same time 5years ago his pump has run on 12v

my pump is still going strong while his pump has worn the impeller bearing out.

I remember at the time reading some reviews with 24v testing and the conclusion seemed to be 24v only netted a 5-10% over 12v but I still used 24v
Because I believed 24v would generate a stronger magnetic field thus generating more torque to the impeller but more importantly less loading to the impeller bearing.
Theory being a stronger magnetic field would stabilise the impeller allowing a larger load before the bearing took any loading.

has any one seen any information about life expectancy with 12v vs 24v, seen plenty of info on performance data but nothing on life expectancy.


----------



## Mr.Eiht

Hey gents,
have to bother you with another/boring pump question.
I am up/sidegrading my loop with GPU blocks
Gladly my *silent* phobya dc12-260 died.

In a NZXT switch 810 I have a CPU and two old Titan X's to cool.
I have a 360 rad in the top and a 240mm xflow one in the front.
Plus restriction wise 6x90 and 3x45 degree fittings.
And a res which should not be an issue









Since I have plenty of cooling headroom aka low fanspeeds
I would love to have a "silent" but strong enough pump for this.
I dont need a res combo and the pump can be ugly since its hidden ...
like my wife but thats another story









I would love to ask you for your advice and expertise.
A big thank you in advance!
Just for clarity, here is the loop:


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Eiht*
> 
> Hey gents,
> have to bother you with another/boring pump question.
> I am up/sidegrading my loop with GPU blocks
> Gladly my *silent* phobya dc12-260 died.
> 
> In a NZXT switch 810 I have a CPU and two old Titan X's to cool.
> I have a 360 rad in the top and a 240mm xflow one in the front.
> Plus restriction wise 6x90 and 3x45 degree fittings.
> And a res which should not be an issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have plenty of cooling headroom aka low fanspeeds
> I would love to have a "silent" but strong enough pump for this.
> I dont need a res combo and the pump can be ugly since its hidden ...
> like my wife but thats another story
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to ask you for your advice and expertise.
> A big thank you in advance!
> Just for clarity, here is the loop:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I used EKs pump/res combo despite some negative reviews I'd seen. Being PWM (and there are many others), it's easy to cut the RPM down. At the lowest setting (right around 800rpm IIRC), it produces a very slight ticking sounds but no whine. You cant hear the ticking unless you put your ear right up to it. The pump is very quiet up to around 2400RPM. At max RPM (4300-4800RPM, cant remember off the top of my head), it is very loud. While gaming, it never strays far from 1000RPM and stays silent. My fans (Vardar F2s) rarely ever turn on but they're extremely quiet until they hit about 1000RPM.

If quiet is a goal, I would think any D5 at low RPM would provide the same results.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


What paint did you use?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> What paint did you use?


I get my paint here..

http://www.specialistpaints.com/collections/specialist-paints

This colour used a primer,gloss white then overlaid with LUMO yellow


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I get my paint here..
> 
> http://www.specialistpaints.com/collections/specialist-paints
> 
> This colour used a primer,gloss white then overlaid with LUMO yellow


Thanks, good to know. Looks like they have some amazing paints there! What was your application method, did you use a specialist spray gun?


----------



## Mr.Eiht

Hey sir and thanks for your reply.
I was considering a D5 with an EK top.
As you mentioned I could crank down the speed to reduce noise.
My main concern was/is the power of the D5 at these lower RPMs compared to e.g. a DDC one.
The 260er phobya one I had was/is silenr but might not be strong enough. The 400er from phobya is
louder than a D5 or DDC - so no option


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Just got a question about 12v vs 24v with D5/655 pumps I have always run my pump on 24v
> 
> I have a friend and we both built our systems about the same time 5years ago his pump has run on 12v
> 
> my pump is still going strong while his pump has worn the impeller bearing out.
> 
> I remember at the time reading some reviews with 24v testing and the conclusion seemed to be 24v only netted a 5-10% over 12v but I still used 24v
> Because I believed 24v would generate a stronger magnetic field thus generating more torque to the impeller but more importantly less loading to the impeller bearing.
> Theory being a stronger magnetic field would stabilise the impeller allowing a larger load before the bearing took any loading.
> 
> has any one seen any information about life expectancy with 12v vs 24v, seen plenty of info on performance data but nothing on life expectancy.


I dont have any experience with 24v to provide any feedback but you should be able to find data on MTBF (mean time between failure) that should shed some light on the subject.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Eiht*
> 
> Hey sir and thanks for your reply.
> I was considering a D5 with an EK top.
> As you mentioned I could crank down the speed to reduce noise.
> My main concern was/is the power of the D5 at these lower RPMs compared to e.g. a DDC one.
> The 260er phobya one I had was/is silenr but might not be strong enough. The 400er from phobya is
> louder than a D5 or DDC - so no option


Flow on the D5 at the lowest RPM is plenty to keep my system at good temps under normal use. I crank everything up for benchmarks but that is it.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I must be odd ball out. The block and ram has a nice style, but that darn yellow hurts my eyes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Thanks, good to know. Looks like they have some amazing paints there! What was your application method, did you use a specialist spray gun?


I use a DeVillbiss Sri Pro.


----------



## madweazl

My car is yellow so I loved right away LOL.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I get my paint here..
> 
> http://www.specialistpaints.com/collections/specialist-paints
> 
> This colour used a primer,gloss white then overlaid with LUMO yellow


First thing I thought when I saw those pictures were LUMO is getting a face lift. Ais this going into the LUMO build


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Eiht*
> 
> Hey sir and thanks for your reply.
> I was considering a D5 with an EK top.
> As you mentioned I could crank down the speed to reduce noise.
> My main concern was/is the power of the D5 at these lower RPMs compared to e.g. a DDC one.
> The 260er phobya one I had was/is silenr but might not be strong enough. The 400er from phobya is
> louder than a D5 or DDC - so no option


I've found the Phobya/EK-DCP400 is quiet as long as you can decouple it from the case. Its not so quiet in my current build where it's slightly pressed against the PSU shroud via the included sound dampening sponge but its not unbearable at 75% PWM and sounds like a low whir. In my Dominator build the pump was suspended entirely using the tubing connecting the reservoir to the pump (floating just above a sponged shelf for the pump) and it was nearly silent.

I would be happy to buy another DCP pump but unfortunately it appears that EK is discontinuing the line of Jingway-based pumps which is a shame because I thought they were a great pump for half the cost of a DDC/D5 (DCP were ~$60 AUD vs $120 AUD for Laing-based pumps).


----------



## maybach123

My black nickel custom loop. waiting for new psu cables


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I've found the Phobya/EK-DCP400 is quiet as long as you can decouple it from the case. Its not so quiet in my current build where it's slightly pressed against the PSU shroud via the included sound dampening sponge but its not unbearable at 75% PWM and sounds like a low whir. In my Dominator build the pump was suspended entirely using the tubing connecting the reservoir to the pump (floating just above a sponged shelf for the pump) and it was nearly silent.
> 
> I would be happy to buy another DCP pump but unfortunately it appears that EK is discontinuing the line of Jingway-based pumps which is a shame because I thought they were a great pump for half the cost of a DDC/D5 (DCP were ~$60 AUD vs $120 AUD for Laing-based pumps).


I have the Phobya 400(PWM), its very quiet i am using the fan expert tool to keep it between 50-75% and its very reliable and quiet

didnt know the DCP pumps were going to be discontinued, its a shame i was gonna recommend one to a friend of mine who will be wc'ing his rig


----------



## R-o-D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> My black nickel custom loop. waiting for new psu cables


Looking good. Why the yellow corners on the one fan?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> First thing I thought when I saw those pictures were LUMO is getting a face lift. Ais this going into the LUMO build


This is going into the S Frame,LUMO is due for an X99 upgrade after thats done.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R-o-D*
> 
> Looking good. Why the yellow corners on the one fan?


Didn't have enough red rubber grommets.


----------



## dwolvin

You are a stronger person that me, My OCD would kick in sooooo hard... But great looking setup!


----------



## Ceadderman

I would swapped them out with corners that cannot be seen. Then my OCD wouldn't be screaming as loud snice it's a woracle solution.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## dwolvin

SIlly question, but I'm looking (possibly) to swap my DefineXL for somethign mid tower- are there any subtle cases (I'm more about quiet than RGB) that can handle a thick Alphacool 280 radiator inside? I know it's a stretch, but I'm not seeing anything in the line of normal browsing. But I have to admit the Bitfenix shogun looks like it might...


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> You are a stronger person that me, My OCD would kick in sooooo hard... But great looking setup!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would swapped them out with corners that cannot be seen. Then my OCD wouldn't be screaming as loud snice it's a woracle solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's getting fixed soon it is driving me crazy as well


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would swapped them out with corners that cannot be seen. Then my OCD wouldn't be screaming as loud snice it's a woracle solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


I really hate my phone right now.









~Ceadder


----------



## dwolvin

Ha!

I tried to figure out the non-obvious word, and settled on 'workable'... And I love that autocorrect picks random 12th century words to toss into a sentence even though you have never (ever) used them previously.


----------



## bluedevil

Planing my loop for a Sponsored build of this guy.







Project: BLUEDEVIL


----------



## atomicus

Here is my just finished Evolv ATX TG build... wrapped in 3M Di-Noc Black Carbon Fibre vinyl, with a custom acrylic shroud wrapped in the same vinyl.

I only did a half loop, leaving the 1070 untouched, as I am waiting to see what the 1080Ti or VEGA offers, and at what price.

Pics below. Some more over at my pcpartpicker page... https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/RHxG3C


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> I dont have any experience with 24v to provide any feedback but you should be able to find data on MTBF (mean time between failure) that should shed some light on the subject.
> Flow on the D5 at the lowest RPM is plenty to keep my system at good temps under normal use. I crank everything up for benchmarks but that is it.


MTBF is a rather poor calculation IMHO but from memory 50,000 hours or 5 years continuous running this pump failed(works but extremely noisy rattle) after 4years of average 12hrs per day fell very short of expected life expectancy.

I remember telling my friend to fill up his reservoir I could hear it sucking in air bubbles over a year ago simple he didn't, I would bet that was the cause of failure.
But don't matter pumps are cheap as chips compared to 4 years ago.


----------



## AreTheGod

Hi, i've bought the new Alphacool Eisrohr 16/13mm along with his bending insert the "Alphacool Silicon Bending insert 100cm for ID 1/2" / 13mm", but i've already ruined 2 tubes, because it seems that the location where I bend the tube tend to "shrink", and I don't know if it's normal, but the insert fit kinda loosely in the tube... Is the reason of the "shrinking" is me being bad at bending tubes or is it because the insert is too small? Thanks!


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Hi, i've bought the new Alphacool Eisrohr 16/13mm along with his bending insert the "Alphacool Silicon Bending insert 100cm for ID 1/2" / 13mm", but i've already ruined 2 tubes, because it seems that the location where I bend the tube tend to "shrink", and I don't know if it's normal, but the insert fit kinda loosely in the tube... Is the reason of the "shrinking" is me being bad at bending tubes or is it because the insert is too small? Thanks!


It looks to me that's simply due to the insert being too small... if it fits snugly, there's really no way that can happen. I found the Barrow inserts were a good match for the EK PETG, so they may be worth a try. I need to lubricate the insert to get it in, but I think if an insert goes in easily without lubrication, then it's too small. I tried a Monsoon insert which was ever so slightly smaller and I thought would work, but definitely produced some warping and deformation as a result of it being just too small.

Is that frosted tubing btw?


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> It looks to me that's simply due to the insert being too small... if it fits snugly, there's really no way that can happen. I found the Barrow inserts were a good match for the EK PETG, so they may be worth a try. I need to lubricate the insert to get it in, but I think if an insert goes in without lubrication, then it's too small. I tried a Monsoon insert which was ever so slightly smaller and I thought would work, but definitely produced some warping and deformation as a result of it being just too small.
> 
> Is that frosted tubing btw?


Yup it's the new tubing from alphacool!
Guess I'll have to try another insert... Maybe I should try to email them to see if they have any insert that goes well with their tubing , bc atm I'm using their but it doesn't work...


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Yup it's the new tubing from alphacool!
> Guess I'll have to try another insert... Maybe I should try to email them to see if they have any insert that goes well with their tubing , bc atm I'm using their but it doesn't work...


The Barrow inserts are cheap and I got mine from eBay... worth a try perhaps.

I do like that frosted look... very nice. Did you notice any change in the opacity of it when heated and bent?


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> The Barrow inserts are cheap and I got mine from eBay... worth a try perhaps.
> 
> I do like that frosted look... very nice. Did you notice any change in the opacity of it when heated and bent?


It think I'll try it yeah.

I'd say the opacity changes just before overheating issues (when bubbles comes up) but at normal heat, I didn't see anything









Btw, I could only find some 14mm ID (http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Barrow-Silicon-Bending-Insert-500mm-8mm-10mm-12mm-14mm-ID-Tubing-/171971993486?var=&hash=item6da181dd2a) will it work?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> It think I'll try it yeah.
> 
> I'd say the opacity changes just before overheating issues (when bubbles comes up) but at normal heat, I didn't see anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I could only find some 14mm ID (http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Barrow-Silicon-Bending-Insert-500mm-8mm-10mm-12mm-14mm-ID-Tubing-/171971993486?var=&hash=item6da181dd2a) will it work?


That's good to know.

The one I have is 12mm, for ID 12mm... if your tubing is 13mm ID that's a tricky call... you may have to try both the 12mm and 14mm ones. Then again, if the Alphacool one is 13mm and is too small, the 12mm Barrow one probably will be too. Have you measured yours, is it actually 13mm? The Barrow one I have is definitely 12mm, I just measured mine.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Hi, i've bought the new Alphacool Eisrohr 16/13mm along with his bending insert the "Alphacool Silicon Bending insert 100cm for ID 1/2" / 13mm", but i've already ruined 2 tubes, because it seems that the location where I bend the tube tend to "shrink", and I don't know if it's normal, but the insert fit kinda loosely in the tube... Is the reason of the "shrinking" is me being bad at bending tubes or is it because the insert is too small? Thanks!


Try heating a wider segment of the tube, and then bring the tube to the mandrel, but resist the temptation to "pull it around the mandrel", which creates thinning in the short hotter malleable region.


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> That's good to know.
> 
> The one I have is 12mm, for ID 12mm... if your tubing is 13mm ID that's a tricky call... you may have to try both the 12mm and 14mm ones. Then again, if the Alphacool one is 13mm and is too small, the 12mm Barrow one probably will be too. Have you measured yours, is it actually 13mm? The Barrow one I have is definitely 12mm, I just measured mine.


They say it's 13mm but when I measure I only got 12mm...


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> They say it's 13mm but when I measure I only got 12mm...


Mmm, yeah that's probably not helping then. 14mm might be too tight a fit.


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Try heating a wider segment of the tube, and then bring the tube to the mandrel, but resist the temptation to "pull it around the mandrel", which creates thinning in the short hotter malleable region.


I definitely got the best one when I heated a larger portion, but I didn't have this problem with my previous tubing (some normal acrylic with 10mm ID), but I don't even have a mandrel, I do everything with the "feeling"


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Mmm, yeah that's probably not helping then. 14mm might be too tight a fit.


Should I email them about it?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Should I email them about it?


I would, but if that's just how they've sized it, I doubt there's much they will be able to do... unless it was a bad batch or something.


----------



## Revan654

1. What is the average time to get a 16mm tubing to soft state for bending? I know the thicker tubing takes more time. (Only reason I'm asking is I might need a new heatgun, It's taking a long time to get to a soft state).

2. What paint does everyone suggest using on stainless steel items (Want to go from the silver to Solid Black).
2B. Any way to spray paint stainless item and then add inside the loop? Maybe spray Paint it and then put some kind of seal ontop of it?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. What is the average time to get a 16mm tubing to soft state for bending? I know the thicker tubing takes more time. (Only reason I'm asking is I might need a new heatgun, It's taking a long time to get to a soft state).
> 
> 2. What paint does everyone suggest using on stainless steel items (Want to go from the silver to Solid Black).
> 2B. Any way to spray paint stainless item and then add inside the loop? Maybe spray Paint it and then put some kind of seal ontop of it?


How Long are you having to heat it up? When I have bent 12mm in the past It was usually about 10-15min per bend for it to be the way I need it.

I wouldn't paint anything that will have water touching it.

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

The plate on my Full Coverage MB block is stainless iirc. I sprayed that with Rustoleum Universal Advanced Formula. No primer coat. Just straight on and it's been holding up like a Champ for years. Although I'm likely going to Powder Coat it when I re coat my case.









And no, I did not spray the interior portion of the plate.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How Long are you having to heat it up? When I have bent 12mm in the past It was usually about 10-15min per bend for it to be the way I need it.
> 
> I wouldn't paint anything that will have water touching it.
> 
> TCO


Allot of the segments are small right now (Have very tight bend). Takes about 5 to 8 minutes to get soft state.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Allot A lot of the segments are small right now (Have very tight bend). *Takes about 5 to 8 minutes to get soft state*.












Oh God, the Agony.



TCO


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh God, the Agony.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Indulge yourself.


----------



## Sazexa

Matte tubing sample finally arrived. This is going to be a hard choice between the two.


----------



## looniam

ya know i said the gloss looks like plastic and that really scream it to me in the second pic. however, the last/third one with low(er) lighting; it look much better than the matte.

so what kind of lighting are you gonna have in the case?


----------



## fakeblood

Redid the loop in my Manta.


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I would, but if that's just how they've sized it, I doubt there's much they will be able to do... unless it was a bad batch or something.


Not sure but on their website, it is said " Thickness : 13mm" (https://www.alphacool.com/shop/hardtubes/accessories/21463/alphacool-silicon-bending-insert-100cm-fuer-id-1/2-/-13mm-hardtubes-blau)


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Matte tubing sample finally arrived. This is going to be a hard choice between the two.


As suggested, I would say the choice comes down to what case lighting you have. I would lean towards the matte myself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Not sure but on their website, it is said " Thickness : 13mm" (https://www.alphacool.com/shop/hardtubes/accessories/21463/alphacool-silicon-bending-insert-100cm-fuer-id-1/2-/-13mm-hardtubes-blau)


They do have a 12mm one, so it's possible they sent you that by mistake?


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> As suggested, I would say the choice comes down to what case lighting you have. I would lean towards the matte myself.
> They do have a 12mm one, so it's possible they sent you that by mistake?


Maybe... Unluckily I think I put in the trash the bag that contained the insert, gotta search it

Edit : Found it, it is indeed the 13mm insert


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Maybe... Unluckily I think I put in the trash the bag that contained the insert, gotta search it
> 
> Edit : Found it, it is indeed the 13mm insert


Well it's certainly worth contacting them... it sounds as though what you have isn't working out too well. Does it slide in the tube without any kind of lubrication? Do you have air between the insert and inside of the tube? If so, that definitely sounds too small.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Redid the loop in my Manta.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's pretty clean work!


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Redid the loop in my Manta.


What temps are you getting off that single rad?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Matte tubing sample finally arrived. This is going to be a hard choice between the two.


Glossy. Matte looks good straight on, but at angles it has less depth. I would just be sure to have some matte or flat components so your entire aesthetic isn't glossy glossy glossy.


----------



## ruffhi

I prefer the dashes running along the tube ... not across the tube.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/potDvvZ4j

https://imageshack.com/i/pmP6FzUbj

Picked up one of the Alphacool pumps now they are more available, not installed it yet though.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's pretty clean work!


Thanks mate!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> What temps are you getting off that single rad?


Nothing to write home about, but at stock with fans running at around 800rpm maxes at about 60c on CPU and GPU


----------



## Sazexa

So, I'm still debating. (Also now debating on which case I really what. Too indecisive for any good.) I may post a small set when the case I settle on arrives, with hardware mocked up, and try to decide then. I finally got some "real" photos of the tubing, not from my cell phone.


----------



## Deeptek

Matte for sure..


----------



## steadly2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Matte for sure..


really? I would have said glossy for sure.. .lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Matte for sure..
> 
> 
> 
> really? I would have said glossy for sure.. .lol
Click to expand...

Same.









~Ceadder


----------



## catbuster

Glossy looks better, more detail, mate just plain...


----------



## Kimir

I prefer matte as well.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Matte for sure..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Matte for sure..
> 
> 
> 
> really? I would have said glossy for sure.. .lol
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Matte for sure..
> 
> 
> 
> really? I would have said glossy for sure.. .lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Glossy looks better, more detail, mate just plain...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I prefer matte as well.


And I would have said find out what fittings they work with, (if any) and do a leak and pressure test to see if there really is any choice and if it's actually usable . . . . .









D.


----------



## atomicus

I could see both working to be honest lol! It probably does depend what else you have going on with the case, inside and out. The glossy will make more of a statement, but will that clash with any other glossy elements?

Where did you get the tubing by the way? I assume it's going to be compatible with the fittings you're using? Is this actually watercooling tubing or is this all one big experiment haha? Will you be bending it or using fittings for turns?


----------



## Sazexa

So many split decisions lol

They're 16mm OD so I plan to use EK rigid fittings. And of course there will be extensive testing


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So many split decisions lol
> 
> They're 16mm OD so I plan to use EK rigid fittings. And of course there will be extensive testing


Glossy. Honestly, the matte looks like a vinyl wrap. Flat, no depth. It is a little more understated, which is fine if that is what you are going for, but IMO CF tubes should be a "statement piece" since they are pretty unique. It depends on the other colors and surfaces in your build.

For the case, well of course I am going to recommend the Phanteks Evolv ATX Glass. Not exactly an improvement from a layout/airflow point of view, but the Lian Li PC-09 is nice. In Win 303 and 909 are also good stylistic options. Obviously if you have the money and parts for something like Case Labs then do that.


----------



## Mega Man

Why choose, use both, assuming they work as intended


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why choose, use both, assuming they work as intended


Especially if doing a dual-loop build I could see that looking sweet. Maybe even mixing the fittings of different finishes like shiny+silver in one loop and matte+black in the other.


----------



## looniam

i'm going with the lighting again. before i didn't specify lighting placement.

i'll agree with those that point out the depth the glossy looks to have over the matte. but any direct lighting is reflected very sharp, too sharp for me. if the weave pattern was more noticeable in the matte, i'd choose that hands down.

so choose the lesser of two evils?

reflected light too sharp or weave pattern not as noticeable?


----------



## Cannonkill

cant you just take some 2k grit sand paper to it to dull it??


----------



## Deeptek

I like the matte. I also like clear fluid and white lights where as people like colored fluid, rgb and flashy things.

The matte just looks cleaner to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im using a gloss tube myself,better seal on the oring....

Also matt looks crap,prepreg doesnt look matt....


----------



## enragedSlime

Build log


----------



## Deeptek

Opinionclock.net


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Got most my stuff done just waiting on taxes now to pickup a 1070 or 1080 and get rid of my 7970s really liking this core x71 case so easy to work with.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, I'm still debating. (Also now debating on which case I really what. Too indecisive for any good.) I may post a small set when the case I settle on arrives, with hardware mocked up, and try to decide then. I finally got some "real" photos of the tubing, not from my cell phone.


I'm also curious to know if these are actual water cooling tubes or an experiment with something else as well if you intend to bend or use fittings.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I'm also curious to know if these are actual water cooling tubes or an experiment with something else as well if you intend to bend or use fittings.


People have used carbon fiber tubing in watercooled builds before, and some companies like Alphacool even sell them. You can't bend them though- angled fittings is the way to go.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Opinionclock.net


hey, they were asked for:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, I'm here once again, looking for some opinions because I'm too darn indecisive. lol
> 
> I'm going to be using carbon fiber tubing for my next project. It'll be inside a Lian Li PC-O11 chasis, which has a front and side glass panel. The rest of the interior will be pretty much matte black with satin-silver (like a Macbook Pro's finish) accents, and RGB LED accents. I want to use carbon fiber tubing. Do you guys think I should go with matte or glossy carbon fiber? Examples of each:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leaning towards glossy because I like how it appears to have a deeper black to it over the matte. But if nothing else is going to be reflective or glossy on the inside, I don't know if it would look out of place or if it would actually highlight the carbon fiber/accentuate it more. What do you guys think?


we aim to please.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I'm also curious to know if these are actual water cooling tubes or an experiment with something else as well if you intend to bend or use fittings.


Going to be a bit of an experiment first, with a spare pump and fittings.

No bending these, all fittings.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I would have said find out what fittings they work with, (if any) and do a leak and pressure test to see if there really is any choice and if it's actually usable . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So many split decisions lol
> 
> They're 16mm OD so I plan to use EK rigid fittings. And of course there will be extensive testing


I found that carbon fiber tubing holds well when paired with appropriate sized fittings.
12mm tube and EK HDC compression fittings work well together
so
If your tube actually measures ~16mm, I reckon you should be fine with EK's 16mm HDC fittings.



even the 16mm HD push-in fittings held on extremely well when pressure tested.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I found that carbon fiber tubing holds well when paired with appropriate sized fittings.
> 12mm tube and EK HDC compression fittings work well together
> so
> If your tube actually measures ~16mm, I reckon you should be fine with EK's 16mm HDC fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> even the 16mm HD push-in fittings held on extremely well when pressure tested.


I measured them and they have to be anywhere between 16-16.5mm. the matte ones might be like 15.9mm OD. So I think they'll do well.


----------



## the finisher

Hi all, I thought I'd finally put up some pics of some of my Thermalchill rads, and San Ace fans. I collected a bunch of TC rads and SA fans years ago.
These PA 140.3s are as new, never been used, I got lucky and got the shrouds from Gary at Sidewinder a few years ago. Picked up the SA 140s at Performance PCs in 2013.
Payed $300 for 6 fans







but they are the most awesome rad fans ever, and made of unobtainium at this point, 2 left last I checked. They max @ 1900 rpm at 12 volts, but will start at less than 4 and are very quiet at 800 rpm, except for the substantial air they move even then. I like that the rads sit back from the case filters a bit, and that my fans are way back at the center of the case this will really cut down on the noise.

Been waiting for a case that would actually hold 2 of these massive things, and the new Thermaltake 900 is perfect. I'll have almost 4" between the fans in pull, And 38mm fans won't fit for push anyway. Still have room for 2 25x140 exhaust on the back panel, and 1 of my super special San Ace 140Ls in the roof.

Overkill? yep







Can't wait for a 8 core Ryzen, My Intel platform could easily be cooled by 1 of these rads.




















Will start a build log soon.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Opinionclock.net


Like a certain part of human anatomy, opinions stink and everyone has one.









Honestly however, the CF tubes should work just fine with the proper ID fittings. Carbon Rose ran them successfully iirc.









But I do like the Glossy ones best.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## THC Butterz

When my tax money comes back in a week or two Im thinking about switching from my old customized HAF 932 (witch my kids and pets have destroyed over the years) to a shiny new corsair 570x RGB, 4 questions...

1.) i have a 30mm thick 360 rad, would that fit in the front? (Green)
2.) I have a D5 (swiftech) and a bay rez, I would need to switch to a tube rez, was thinking about a pump top tube, having a hard time finding one that has everything but the D5, most of them come with the pump included, any recomendations?
3.) with the rad installed in the front, would my pump/rez fit in the pre set mounting position behind the rad, in front of the psu shroud? (red)
4.)would i be able to do push/pull?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Edit: deleted


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I have searched xtremerigs.net for a hard-line fitting review, but my poor search technique has failed me.
> I have seen your Borosilcate Glass Tube review, but the pictures in your post above do not appear to come from it.
> Are you allowed to add a direct link here to the review your pictures stem from, or at least a pertinent search term for the site?


You can always ask for the link in a pm


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> You can always ask for the link in a pm


Oh, yes, thank you... I keep forgetting about that avenue.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all,

So the pump I bought 2nd hand locally is faulty and I am back in the market for a new one. I was originally looking at the EK-XTOP D5 because I was told it is a great pump and also, I like the effect of seeing the coolant through it (silly I know)

The issue is that I now can't get one easily and afford-ably, what is your opinion on the Thermaltake TubeRes+D5. (please don't burn me at the stake)

Regards


----------



## emsj86

A little off topic but in he market for a desk. Seeing if I can get some ideas or pictures for desk. 1 maybe 2 monitors top and I want my case labs sm8 to sit on the top of the desk. Figure most of you have bigger or water cooked pcs that you want to show off so figure this wouldn't be too off topic.


----------



## FXformat

I'm about to start my loop, I tried to go back to air after watercooling for a long time and needless to say that didn't last long. Once you watercool you simply can't go back.

Tubing of choice will be 16mm rigid acrylic again.


----------



## Sazexa

So, I don't think the matte carbon tubing is an option. I did some test cuts last night with a pipe cutting tool. It works great for the matte carbon fiber. But the inside had some dimples. My fiance decided to shine light into the matte tube, this was the result.



You can see like through the "solid" tubing. I decided against that.

The glossy tubing didn't have that effect, but, it didn't cut too well. Everytime uncut it, it has something like a seam in the inside break off the larger piece and strip down the inside. So, I may try either a grinder or bandsaw for the glossy


----------



## Revan654

I just mounted my Res mounting plate inside my Sm8. Talk about a very close call. The two screws are just about touch each other.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, I don't think the matte carbon tubing is an option. I did some test cuts last night with a pipe cutting tool. It works great for the matte carbon fiber. But the inside had some dimples. My fiance decided to shine light into the matte tube, this was the result.
> 
> 
> 
> You can see like through the "solid" tubing. I decided against that.
> 
> The glossy tubing didn't have that effect, but, it didn't cut too well. Everytime uncut it, it has something like a seam in the inside break off the larger piece and strip down the inside. So, I may try either a grinder or bandsaw for the glossy


Cutting carbon fiber is hard. Pretty sure you need a diamond saw for clean cuts. Also the dust is super bad for you.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Cutting carbon fiber is hard. Pretty sure you need a diamond saw for clean cuts. Also the dust is super bad for you.


Yeah, I know about the dust. That's why I I didn't want to use power tools at first.

I was able to make these clean cuts with this cutting tool; aside from the glossy tubing. So maybe it doesn't need to be diamond, but, a nice cutting blade/wheel for sure.


----------



## Ceadderman

You need a rotary tool with a diamiond cutoff bit to cut it but it can be done and reasonably easy considering it's Carbon Fiber.









iirc, Carbon Rose had the tubing you first cut then applied a light to...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1538664/...-i7-4790k-asus-formula-vii/0_20#post_23477880



...click







for the thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> 2.) I have a D5 (swiftech) and a bay rez, I would need to switch to a tube rez, was thinking about a pump top tube, having a hard time finding one that has everything but the D5, most of them come with the pump included, any recomendations?


check out the Heatkiller Tube for D5 from Watercool:
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ViewObjectPath=%2FShops%2FWatercooleK%2FCategories%2FAusgleichsbeh%C3%A4lter%2F%22HEATKILLER%C2%AE%20Tube%20f%C3%BCr%20D5%22

What I really like about that res is - besides the design - the fact that it's modular and the tube is made of borosilicate glass.


----------



## rylim

Guys, I'm a newbie in this forum as well as to water cooling. I plan to build a water cooling system for my new PC, and looking for some advices and recommendations on the system. By the way, here's the specs for the PC:

Intel Core i7 7700K
ASUS Maximus IX Formula
Corsair 32GB Dominator
GTX 1080 - Perhaps will upgrade to new one soon?
Corsair AX1200 PSU
2 x Intel SSD in raid 0

*Questions*
1) I might overclock this PC to 5GHz above, would the WC system able to handle the heat? In addition, which CPU block should I get?
2) I heard some rumors about new GPU, and I might be upgrading it after it launches. Or add another GTX1080 to my current system, which means two GTX 1080. Therefore, which pump is powerful to handle it? I heard a lot of good things about D5 PWM, and is it worthwhile to get it?
3) Lastly, what kind of radiator should I get? 360mm? 480mm?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rylim*
> 
> Guys, I'm a newbie in this forum as well as to water cooling. I plan to build a water cooling system for my new PC, and looking for some advices and recommendations on the system. By the way, here's the specs for the PC:
> 
> Intel Core i7 7700K
> ASUS Maximus IX Formula
> Corsair 32GB Dominator
> GTX 1080 - Perhaps will upgrade to new one soon?
> Corsair AX1200 PSU
> 2 x Intel SSD in raid 0
> 
> *Questions*
> 1) I might overclock this PC to 5GHz above, would the WC system able to handle the heat? In addition, which CPU block should I get?
> 2) I heard some rumors about new GPU, and I might be upgrading it after it launches. Or add another GTX1080 to my current system, which means two GTX 1080. Therefore, which pump is powerful to handle it? I heard a lot of good things about D5 PWM, and is it worthwhile to get it?
> 3) Lastly, what kind of radiator should I get? 360mm? 480mm?


As someone with two GTX 1080's, what do you need a second one for? I don't often make use of my second one, yet.

A D5 should handle that fine, even with a second GPU.

Ideally, you want ~120mm per component, plus an extra radiator for headroom. A 360mm is fine, even if you have two GPU's. If you can fit a 480 (or basically however many radiators you can fit) it's usually better, but not always worth it.


----------



## rylim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> As someone with two GTX 1080's, what do you need a second one for? I don't often make use of my second one, yet.
> 
> A D5 should handle that fine, even with a second GPU.
> 
> Ideally, you want ~120mm per component, plus an extra radiator for headroom. A 360mm is fine, even if you have two GPU's. If you can fit a 480 (or basically however many radiators you can fit) it's usually better, but not always worth it.


Currently I only have 1 GTX1080 and may add another unit in the future.

By the way, which brand of D5 pump would you recommend? There many different brands on the market, such as EK, Aquacomputer, Koolance, and many more.

Besides that, would 2 x 240mm radiator performs better than 1 x 360mm radiator?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rylim*
> 
> Currently I only have 1 GTX1080 and may add another unit in the future.
> 
> By the way, which brand of D5 pump would you recommend? There many different brands on the market, such as EK, Aquacomputer, Koolance, and many more.
> 
> Besides that, would 2 x 240mm radiator performs better than 1 x 360mm radiator?


The more surface area is always better cooling. So two 240's would perform better.

I like EK products a lot.


----------



## docsys

I'm just wondering if glass-tubings and reservoirs perform better in matter of cooling than acrylic, carbon fibre or PETG. Is there any difference at all?
So what do you guys think or is there a review or post I missed out?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> I'm just wondering if glass-tubings and reservoirs perform better in matter of cooling than acrylic, carbon fibre or PETG. Is there any difference at all?
> So what do you guys think or is there a review or post I missed out?


I don't think tubing makes much a difference. Even if you were using say copper tubing, I don't think it would make a difference of more than two or three degrees.


----------



## docsys

Oh... I missed out copper.








I didn't expect too much of a difference but is there any to be measured? Has anyone tried?
Let's say someone is attempting to get the least degree out of his system... 2 degrees here... 3 there... can count up.
Just playing mindgames.What would be the posssible best way to throw materials in your watercooled pc?


----------



## R-o-D

I'm still new here and learning but I don't think the type of tubing will make a measurable difference. The surface area to volume is just to low.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

After 8 years in Water Cooling I will be going AIO for me next build. This is mostly because my new build would require to basically buy eveything new which is something I do not deem worth.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> After 8 years in Water Cooling I will be going AIO for me next build. This is mostly because my new build would require to basically buy eveything new which is something I do not deem worth.


eh tried that, after two returns and a final refund I gave up on the AIO. It seemed slick but after throwing together another custom loop I remembered why I like it.

Least for me its being able to fix a part instead of removing the whole unit and sending back for RMA. also never had an issue with a custom loop... which could be luck who knows


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> eh tried that, after two returns and a final refund I gave up on the AIO. It seemed slick but after throwing together another custom loop I remembered why I like it.
> 
> Least for me its being able to fix a part instead of removing the whole unit and sending back for RMA. also never had an issue with a custom loop... which could be luck who knows


Going ITX is very hard to build a Custom Loop. I have 3 water cooled systems in Full Tower with 360 RADs, Bay Res, D5s. I cant used anything like that in Nano S.It will be a lot of money for very average performance. From my experience you kind of have to go overkill with Water Cooling or its will not perform. Looks only is not enough for me these days.


----------



## Spectre-

Hey guys i am not too good at navigating the EK site, i was wondering if someone could guide me to the AM4 brackets for my Supremacy Evo White


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Going ITX is very hard to build a Custom Loop. I have 3 water cooled systems in Full Tower with 360 RADs, Bay Res, D5s. I cant used anything like that in Nano S.It will be a lot of money for very average performance. From my experience you kind of have to go overkill with Water Cooling or its will not perform. Looks only is not enough for me these days.


Watercooling in the nano s is pretty straight forward for the cpu as long as the gpu isn't packing on extra inches beyond the stock nvidia or amd normal length of ~11in. If it was an ncase m1 or an sg05 then fair enough.. though I've cooled 300-400W in both those cases before with custom loops =P.

Silverstone makes a nice sfx to atx psu adapter that would give you vents and space between the gpu and the psu on the nano s if you want an air cooled gpu.. and position the sfx psu close to the bottom filtered air intake too.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> Hey guys i am not too good at navigating the EK site, i was wondering if someone could guide me to the AM4 brackets for my Supremacy Evo White


Home> Water Blocks> Block Spare Parts> Mounting Plates

BLACK and NICKEL


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Watercooling in the nano s is pretty straight forward for the cpu as long as the gpu isn't packing on extra inches beyond the stock nvidia or amd normal length of ~11in. If it was an ncase m1 or an sg05 then fair enough.. though I've cooled 300-400W in both those cases before with custom loops =P.
> 
> Silverstone makes a nice sfx to atx psu adapter that would give you vents and space between the gpu and the psu on the nano s if you want an air cooled gpu.. and position the sfx psu close to the bottom filtered air intake too.


Yes you can but WC the CPU only is pointless these days. If I include both GPU and CPU it would mean new block for me, 2 x 240 RADs, new pump, hard line tubing, fittings, res. Basically I have to dump $700 worth of part.


----------



## bluedevil

Well setup the test bench again....This time with a 6700k on a z170 CLASSIFIED.


----------



## FXformat

Posted this in the Phanteks case thread too so i apologize for double posting if you frequent that thread too. I'm officially back in the loop, pun intended. Air sucked so bad, loud and ran hot. This is my simple loop, what do you guys think?


----------



## R-o-D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Posted this in the Phanteks case thread too so i apologize for double posting if you frequent that thread too. I'm officially back in the loop, pun intended. Air sucked so bad, loud and ran hot. This is my simple loop, what do you guys think?


Simple, clean, I like it a lot.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Posted this in the Phanteks case thread too so i apologize for double posting if you frequent that thread too. I'm officially back in the loop, pun intended. Air sucked so bad, loud and ran hot. This is my simple loop, what do you guys think?






Great looking build. nice clean look.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> I'm just wondering if glass-tubings and reservoirs perform better in matter of cooling than acrylic, carbon fibre or PETG. Is there any difference at all?
> So what do you guys think or is there a review or post I missed out?


No difference in temps at all.

It's more or less a clarity issue. Glass looks better than acrylic and acrylic looks better than plastic. iirc, borosilicate glass is a touch sturdier and also doesn't scratch easy like the other two will.









~Ceadder


----------



## Streetdragon

while looking at all that clean builds i realy dont understand, why i have so much wires^^ maybe with full blocks on my gpus it would look cleaner(but there are no full blocks)


----------



## H4mm3R2

Hi,
thank you for the inspiration in this thread, a lot of pictures that persuaded me to build my first own loop. I think everything I've got, I just can not decide which water block to buy for my Asus GTX 1070 STRIX


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No difference in temps at all.
> 
> It's more or less a clarity issue. Glass looks better than acrylic and acrylic looks better than plastic. iirc, borosilicate glass is a touch sturdier and also doesn't scratch easy like the other two will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What's the deal with the borosilicate and cutting/chamfering? I've seen it said that you shouldn't cut with a saw so as to avoid the tiny particles which can be very harmful if breathed in. I have seen a video where someone 'scored' a cut with a pipe cutter and just snapped it... that seemed effective enough. I am not sure if you need to chamfer the tubes though, in which case how is that done? I don't see too many glass tube builds vs acrylic/PETG... presumably because it's that much trickier to work with? Not to mention the cost given extra fittings required.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Yes you can but WC the CPU only is pointless these days. If I include both GPU and CPU it would mean new block for me, 2 x 240 RADs, new pump, hard line tubing, fittings, res. Basically I have to dump $700 worth of part.


Totally agree that CPU only custom loops are excessive, but $700 for a simple CPU&GPU is a bit of an overestimation. A nice CPU only loop can easily be done for under $500, and that's not even a bare-bones one.

An AIO solution can be decent for a CPU only solution, be it a proper AIO solution. CLC's from the likes of Asetek and Coollt are pointless imo, you're better of with a decent air-cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> What's the deal with the borosilicate and cutting/chamfering? I've seen it said that you shouldn't cut with a saw so as to avoid the tiny particles which can be very harmful if breathed in. I have seen a video where someone 'scored' a cut with a pipe cutter and just snapped it... that seemed effective enough. I am not sure if you need to chamfer the tubes though, in which case how is that done? I don't see too many glass tube builds vs acrylic/PETG... presumably because it's that much trickier to work with? Not to mention the cost given extra fittings required.


Scoring and snapping works fine. Chamfering could be done with wet-sanding or maybe with a blowtorch?

Its not impossible to bend glass tubing either, although its pretty difficult. Takes a considerable amount of skill to make a nice looking bend in glass tubing.


----------



## grayfox11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Posted this in the Phanteks case thread too so i apologize for double posting if you frequent that thread too. I'm officially back in the loop, pun intended. Air sucked so bad, loud and ran hot. This is my simple loop, what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Temp result?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Totally agree that CPU only custom loops are excessive, but $700 for a simple CPU&GPU is a bit of an overestimation. A nice CPU only loop can easily be done for under $500, and that's not even a bare-bones one.
> 
> An AIO solution can be decent for a CPU only solution, be it a proper AIO solution. CLC's from the likes of Asetek and Coollt are pointless imo, you're better of with a decent air-cooler.
> Scoring and snapping works fine. Chamfering could be done with wet-sanding or maybe with a blowtorch?
> 
> Its not impossible to bend glass tubing either, although its pretty difficult. Takes a considerable amount of skill to make a nice looking bend in glass tubing.


Yeah I did my CPU only loop quite cheap, but I would generally agree that if you only ever intend to cool a CPU, just go with air. I did mine as a halfway house as I'm waiting for the 1080Ti or VEGA, and then it will be a full loop. When you're used to a full loop and a totally silent GPU, the noise from even the quietest AIB card is not something I want to be hearing. I have a Strix 1070 in my system currently, not a loud GPU by any standards, but I don't like it. Watercooling spoils you lol!

You can buy the pre-bent tubes now... that's only good for one bend of course, but still good to have the option.


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Well it's certainly worth contacting them... it sounds as though what you have isn't working out too well. Does it slide in the tube without any kind of lubrication? Do you have air between the insert and inside of the tube? If so, that definitely sounds too small.


I can easily slide it in the tube without any kind of lubrication and I got
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I would, but if that's just how they've sized it, I doubt there's much they will be able to do... unless it was a bad batch or something.


Apparently, it's normal...

(I sent them an e-mail with a pic of the insert inside the tube  )
I just ordered the Barrow one, I'll see how it goes...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Swapped my block out since the Kryos was clogged for some odd reason. Also added a second pump as insurance.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> I can easily slide it in the tube without any kind of lubrication and I got
> Apparently, it's normal...
> I just ordered the Barrow one, I'll see how it goes...


That doesn't seem right to me... from that photo it's just way too small. In my experience, even using an insert which is a tighter fit than that, but still loose, makes distortion in the bend far more likely. Don't know how it's possible with that much of a gap... totally unnecessary for THAT much room, and with a bit of lubrication there is never any issue with getting a tube out with the Barrow insert on the EK PETG I've used. Don't think those guys know what they're talking about IMO.


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> That doesn't seem right to me... from that photo it's just way too small. In my experience, even using an insert which is a tighter fit than that, but still loose, makes distortion in the bend far more likely. Don't know how it's possible with that much of a gap... totally unnecessary for THAT much room, and with a bit of lubrication there is never any issue with getting a tube out with the Barrow insert on the EK PETG I've used. Don't think those guys know what they're talking about IMO.


Unluckily yes i don't think so too








the problem is that I also have the moonson one but it is also thin (same size that the alphacool one), guess that barrow is my last hope


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Swapped my block out since the Kryos was clogged for some odd reason. Also added a second pump as insurance.


omg is this micro2 ? i absolutly love this MB







could you measure for me please how much vertically space (but from profile view) is between VRM heatsink and waterblock ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No difference in temps at all.
> 
> It's more or less a clarity issue. Glass looks better than acrylic and acrylic looks better than plastic. iirc, borosilicate glass is a touch sturdier and also doesn't scratch easy like the other two will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the deal with the borosilicate and cutting/chamfering? I've seen it said that you shouldn't cut with a saw so as to avoid the tiny particles which can be very harmful if breathed in. I have seen a video where someone 'scored' a cut with a pipe cutter and just snapped it... that seemed effective enough. I am not sure if you need to chamfer the tubes though, in which case how is that done? I don't see too many glass tube builds vs acrylic/PETG... presumably because it's that much trickier to work with? Not to mention the cost given extra fittings required.
Click to expand...

Never worked with glass tubing(yet







) but I have cut glass and typically you're better off getting a glass tube cutter. Yes it can be scored and snapped but you're working with glass and glass is unforgiving unless you're experienced with it. I second the blowtorch method for chamfering/tempering the ends. I suggest checking YouTube for a tutorial on how to do it if you've never done something like that.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> After 8 years in Water Cooling I will be going AIO for me next build. This is mostly because my new build would require to basically buy eveything new which is something I do not deem worth.


I can understand that. I have AIOs in my folder rig.
So far, luck been on my side with the H50 and H60 smacked in there.

Probably the reason I'm debating to put AIOs on my mini server build when I get around to it.


----------



## Sazexa

What's a good way to find the cooling capacity of a radiator/set up?

IE; trying to figure out which case/scenario would likely cool your PC better.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> What's a good way to find the cooling capacity of a radiator/set up?
> 
> IE; trying to figure out which case/scenario would likely cool your PC better.


Maximum the case can fit. Basically you want 120mm for every 100W min. So let says you WC a GTX 1080 and i7 you want min 360 RAD. Lower fan speed, have push/pull, have thicker rads all have effect on that 100W. A 360 RAD does ~ 250W dissipation safety. I have 360 + 240 push/pull 7v (900 RPM) and cools 290X + 3770K OC so so. Hitting ~ 52C on GPU. With another 290X in the loop I was ~ 62C on GPU.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Maximum the case can fit. Basically you want 120mm for every 100W min. So let says you WC a GTX 1080 and i7 you want min 360 RAD. Lower fan speed, have push/pull, have thicker rads all have effect on that 100W. A 360 RAD does ~ 250W dissipation safety. I have 360 + 240 push/pull 7v (900 RPM) and cools 290X + 3770K OC so so. Hitting ~ 52C on GPU. With another 290X in the loop I was ~ 62C on GPU.


Funny you mention that, I just setup my test bench with a H220-X and an additional MCR120, cooling a 6700k and a r9 290. Neither has broke 50C in a 18C ambient. So I would say 250-300w a 360mm rad (or combined) could dissipate.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Maximum the case can fit. Basically you want 120mm for every 100W min. So let says you WC a GTX 1080 and i7 you want min 360 RAD. Lower fan speed, have push/pull, have thicker rads all have effect on that 100W. A 360 RAD does ~ 250W dissipation safety. I have 360 + 240 push/pull 7v (900 RPM) and cools 290X + 3770K OC so so. Hitting ~ 52C on GPU. With another 290X in the loop I was ~ 62C on GPU.


The reason I ask is because I'm trying to decide between a few different cases, but they all have very different layouts and different size radiators that could fill them up. Going off surface area alone, some are seemingly a lot better than others. But some of the other ones that don't offer as much surface area can fit much thicker rads.

Right now I'm using a 480x60mm (with only one set of fans) for a test bench set up and it's doing a decent job on my two GPU's and CPU. But, I want to get cooling close to what I'll have in whatever case I choose. I'll break it down by maximum cooling capacity I suppose.

1. A 280x40mm and a 240x60mm push/pull

2. Two 360mm rads. One could be 40mm thick, the other can be 60mm thick with push/pull.

3. Two 360x40 rads, one 240x60 with push/pull

4. Two 240x40's, and a 360x40 push/pull

5. A 540x40 (3x1 180mm)

I'm pretty neutral as far as aesthetics go on all these case. Trying to get an idea of which would perform the best for cooling. Ideally I'd like cooling equal too, or greater than, the current set up, but I doubt I'll get that since it's something like best-case scenario


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Maximum the case can fit. Basically you want 120mm for every 100W min. So let says you WC a GTX 1080 and i7 you want min 360 RAD. Lower fan speed, have push/pull, have thicker rads all have effect on that 100W. A 360 RAD does ~ 250W dissipation safety. I have 360 + 240 push/pull 7v (900 RPM) and cools 290X + 3770K OC so so. Hitting ~ 52C on GPU. With another 290X in the loop I was ~ 62C on GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> Funny you mention that, I just setup my test bench with a H220-X and an additional MCR120, cooling a 6700k and a r9 290. Neither has broke 50C in a 18C ambient. So I would say 250-300w a 360mm rad (or combined) could dissipate.
Click to expand...

fan speed










Spoiler: Thar She Blows!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Funny you mention that, I just setup my test bench with a H220-X and an additional MCR120, cooling a 6700k and a r9 290. Neither has broke 50C in a 18C ambient. So I would say 250-300w a 360mm rad (or combined) could dissipate.


Actually,a 360 rad can handle 2000w+.

It depends on what delta you find acceptable.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually,a 360 rad can handle 2000w+.
> 
> It depends on what delta you find acceptable.


I fully agree. Supports my theory on why AMD puts out a 120mm rad on both the Pro Duo and Fury X, both TDP hogs.


----------



## Muldu

Just wanted to share my Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered glass build.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> Just wanted to share my Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered glass build.


Wish I could see more of it, but very nice!


----------



## Muldu

I will upload some pictures where you can see more!









And thx!


----------



## eleet03

I am planning on have two radiators on my build. One to cool my cpu and the other for my gpu. Currently, I have a radiator mounted at the top with the fans as intake. I plan on mounting another radiator in the front with intake fans. I have two more fans at the bottom of my case as intake as well and at the rear, I have an exhaust fan. Is this an optimal config?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> Just wanted to share my Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered glass build.


Looks very clean, love the plumbing work. Yes post more pics when you can, and take the front panels off too so we can get a clear look, i might add another rad and do similar piping run.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually,a 360 rad can handle 2000w+.
> 
> It depends on what delta you find acceptable.


Pretty sure it cant because of other factors in the loop. You cant really go more than 25C delta because you will effect the pump.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> I will upload some pictures where you can see more!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thx!


Nice build. Needs better photos. Seems I am the rare few with thick rads in this case. How come you didn't do any of the bends. Your build looks very clean and would look even cleaner imo, if you bent the tube rather that just used fittings.


----------



## FXformat

Using fittings instead of bends give it that industrial look, it looks good too in a different way. I would do that with mine, but fittings are god awful expensive and i'm cheap


----------



## Muldu

I will surely take some better photos. Maybe borrow a camera or something.

I went with the fittings simply because I think it looks better. I did do the bending game in the Fractal Define S.. It's a taste thing I guess









Thanks for the kind words


----------



## alltheGHz

Building a custom case, the design has the intake for the fan completely unobstructed but the exhaust on the rad side will be blocked by a SFX psu. Will the obstruction affect temps?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Pretty sure it cant because of other factors in the loop. You cant really go more than 25C delta because you will effect the pump.


Not true,A D5 solar can run at 100c no problem. Rad performance is the question,not the ability of the components to exploit it. With the right fans and environment,a rad can shift an obnoxious amount of heat.

Hardwarelabs rate their GTX 360 for 1800w for example.

http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/gtx/360gtx/

Lower temps is great and everything but you can get great performance for reduced hardware footprint if you look beyond a 10c delta.....the 10c delta that started out because it was a good baseline for testing rather than any significance.


----------



## phillyd

Hey guys, I'll be looking to build a new PC in the next few months, and I was wondering what kind of components you all suggest for a water cooling loop now. I have an Alphacool Monsta 240mm and a UT60 360mm rad I can recycle, a 655 pump, fans, a FrozenQ res I probably want to replace, and that's about all I'm keeping from my old loop. I need to decide on hard/soft tubing, fittings, a reservoir/pump top/etc., GPU block (for Vega GPU) a CPU block (for Ryzen CPU) and coolant. I might stick with my Corsair AF and SP fans, but I want to consider my options there too. I'm also going to replace my case. Right now I am thinking the Enthoo Luxe TG is my best option, but I'm not sure.

I'd prefer not to do the extra work to go with hard tubing and lose the flexibility of being able to swap parts much easier with soft tubing, so I'd have to be convinced that it would be worth doing







What tubing is good nowadays? And what fittings? I'd like to not spend a fortune on this build so value is nice. Who is making the best CPU and GPU blocks? What are some good options for the pump/reservoir?


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Building a custom case, the design has the intake for the fan completely unobstructed but the exhaust on the rad side will be blocked by a SFX psu. Will the obstruction affect temps?


How much room will there be between the rad and the power supply? As long as there is a gap, the air will get out. I'd guess a half inch is great, and a quarter might cause some obstruction, but it really depends on the amount of overlap (can you MS Paint a pic?)...


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> How much room will there be between the rad and the power supply? As long as there is a gap, the air will get out. I'd guess a half inch is great, and a quarter might cause some obstruction, but it really depends on the amount of overlap (can you MS Paint a pic?)...


There will be a few millimeters of space.


----------



## erso44

When is it time to upgrade CPU? I got an i7 3820 and would like to go to 7700k
My main aim is to run 5 Ghz as smooth as it gets. Of course I currently run them but with 1.51V it breaks my hearth everytime under fullload....what do you guys think?
And I didn´t find any thread which could handle my "problem"


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> There will be a few millimeters of space.


Hm... Will the power supply block the entire radiator, or only part? If it's covering all of it I don't think that will be enough room, but you could test by putting a chunk of cardboard the same distance from the fan/rad and seeing it outside the enclosure- listed bot backpressure on the fan or whistling at the cardboard gap... But not sure how to test better without actual measuring devices.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true,A D5 solar can run at 100c no problem. Rad performance is the question,not the ability of the components to exploit it. With the right fans and environment,a rad can shift an obnoxious amount of heat.
> 
> Hardwarelabs rate their GTX 360 for 1800w for example.
> 
> http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/gtx/360gtx/
> 
> Lower temps is great and everything but you can get great performance for reduced hardware footprint if you look beyond a 10c delta.....the 10c delta that started out because it was a good baseline for testing rather than any significance.


The problem is that @ 1800W it would not work. Basically the temperature will never stabilise.


----------



## dwolvin

Well, it would stabilize somewhere... Just probably higher than you want. Radiators work better the bigger the delta between ambient and water temperature.


----------



## SIRobotics

Finally finished second custom build:
InWin 805i case (modded)
EK-DBAY SPIN reservoir
Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS rear rad
Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS front rad
Asus X99M-WS mobo
i7 Broadwell-E 6950x w/EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition CPU Waterblock
2x MSI 6G 980 Ti w/Bitspower WB in SLI
64GB Corsair Platinum DDR4 3200MHz RAM
Corsair 1200AXi PSU
2x 512GB Samsung 850 Pro
1x 256GB Samsung 850 Pro
Noctua AF-12 and AF-6 PWM fans with some custom 3D printed and laser cut mounts
Swiftech D5 Vario pump with custom 3D printed mount
bunch of custom parts and wiring
Multiboot windows 7,10 and Ubuntu 14.04.5LTS,16.04.1LTS


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Got my first loop done today


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Got my first loop done today


Wow, that is a thicc rad.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Wow, that is a thicc rad.


And here I thought about getting a Monsta instead haha


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> The problem is that @ 1800W it would not work. Basically the temperature will never stabilise.


I dont think you fully understand what you are commentating on here.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> The problem is that @ 1800W it would not work. Basically the temperature will never stabilise.


What? How can it not stabilise, this is literally how radiators work. I mean, your car is somehow running with 80-90C in the cooling loop, you are aware of that?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> The reason I ask is because I'm trying to decide between a few different cases, but they all have very different layouts and different size radiators that could fill them up. Going off surface area alone, some are seemingly a lot better than others. But some of the other ones that don't offer as much surface area can fit much thicker rads.
> 
> Right now I'm using a 480x60mm (with only one set of fans) for a test bench set up and it's doing a decent job on my two GPU's and CPU. But, I want to get cooling close to what I'll have in whatever case I choose. I'll break it down by maximum cooling capacity I suppose.
> 
> 1. A 280x40mm and a 240x60mm push/pull
> 
> 2. Two 360mm rads. One could be 40mm thick, the other can be 60mm thick with push/pull.
> 
> 3. Two 360x40 rads, one 240x60 with push/pull
> 
> 4. Two 240x40's, and a 360x40 push/pull
> 
> 5. A 540x40 (3x1 180mm)
> 
> I'm pretty neutral as far as aesthetics go on all these case. Trying to get an idea of which would perform the best for cooling. Ideally I'd like cooling equal too, or greater than, the current set up, but I doubt I'll get that since it's something like best-case scenario


Its a complicated question. You can compare the performance of the different rads when tested on a test bench quite easily but when you put the same rads in different cases that can all change by a lot.

In general for best performance you of course want a case with good ventilation/ easy access to intake air for the rads. Also, good exhaust access, three rads all dumping air into a case will reduce each others airflow if they all share a 120mm exhaust fan. A separated rad chamber is a great thing to have.

The environment the rad is in, and how that environment increases the overall air restriction of the rads has such a large impact that it makes it very hard to say X combination will be better than Y unless they will be on an open bench.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIRobotics*
> 
> Finally finished second custom build:
> InWin 805i case (modded)
> EK-DBAY SPIN reservoir
> Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS rear rad
> Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS front rad
> Asus X99M-WS mobo
> i7 Broadwell-E 6950x w/EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition CPU Waterblock
> 2x MSI 6G 980 Ti w/Bitspower WB in SLI
> 64GB Corsair Platinum DDR4 3200MHz RAM
> Corsair 1200AXi PSU
> 2x 512GB Samsung 850 Pro
> 1x 256GB Samsung 850 Pro
> Noctua AF-12 and AF-6 PWM fans with some custom 3D printed and laser cut mounts
> Swiftech D5 Vario pump with custom 3D printed mount
> bunch of custom parts and wiring
> Multiboot windows 7,10 and Ubuntu 14.04.5LTS,16.04.1LTS


More than curious. Temps under load?


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIRobotics*
> 
> Finally finished second custom build:
> InWin 805i case (modded)
> EK-DBAY SPIN reservoir
> Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS rear rad
> Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS front rad
> Asus X99M-WS mobo
> i7 Broadwell-E 6950x w/EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition CPU Waterblock
> 2x MSI 6G 980 Ti w/Bitspower WB in SLI
> 64GB Corsair Platinum DDR4 3200MHz RAM
> Corsair 1200AXi PSU
> 2x 512GB Samsung 850 Pro
> 1x 256GB Samsung 850 Pro
> Noctua AF-12 and AF-6 PWM fans with some custom 3D printed and laser cut mounts
> Swiftech D5 Vario pump with custom 3D printed mount
> bunch of custom parts and wiring
> Multiboot windows 7,10 and Ubuntu 14.04.5LTS,16.04.1LTS


Nice choice in Mobo. I just finished my Asus X99M WS.


----------



## SIRobotics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> More than curious. Temps under load?


I'll ran some stress tests with AIDA64 Extreme but I don't remember what the peak temps were just that they were way below. I added one AF-6 intake fan that dual purposes to cool the pump and one AF-6 exhaust fan to the case because the 805 is not very airflow friendly, but that was probably overkill.

I know normal use with windows (like Solidworks and docs) CPU never gets above 36deg C and idle it hovers 32-33degC. This is not overclocked, just stock.


----------



## SIRobotics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Nice choice in Mobo. I just finished my Asus X99M WS.


Looks good


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Nice choice in Mobo. I just finished my Asus X99M WS.


Please add this to the list of soft tubing builds done right! Terrific job. I love the color palette.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> What? How can it not stabilise, this is literally how radiators work. I mean, your car is somehow running with 80-90C in the cooling loop, you are aware of that?


Some of these talks somewhat cannot relate to the intended use of our hobby.

While rad size matters to lower the Ambient to Water Delta, let's not forget how these temps would relate to say for example, CPU Temps.

In my own opinion and on a manner of hierarchy from the greatest to the least impact on component readable temps;

1. Ambient
2. Fan Quality and Speed
3. Rad Area
4. Rad Thickness
5. Rad Model

Hear me for my conclusion but I saw a little advantage in temps going from an EX360 to a 480GenTwoExtreme rad. But that little difference allowed me to run my CPU 100MHz more for just a little more heat at a little warmer ambient. Granting the tests are different too. But I guess, the idea is not out of the topic here.

EX360 with NZXT Bundled Case fans at 1600RPM in Push-Pull (RPM readout not shown by the mobo headers as they run of molex adaptors)










480GTX with Nidec 38mm fans at 1850RPM in Pull










That's comparing one of the worst rads out there to one of the best. And there you can see how ambient plays it's role.

These are my tests that were actually posted on another thread just a few days ago. Not in any way scientific. But I hope I am making sense here.

Fan speeds:

These are my results on the 480GTX with Nidec Beta V 38mm running at 4000RPM MAX in Pull, PWM Controlled.

Look closely to the Graphs to see where the temperature stabilizes.

1000RPM










1400RPM










1850RPM










Not much difference there either.

1400 vs 4000RPM. Look at the RPM readout in the graph. I pulled off the tach and PWM control from the CPU header.

Again, a different scenario from the ones above.

1400RPM









4000RPM








5C gain in CPU temps? Will that be enough to justify the noise?

I have nothing against those reviewers that were linked previously. In fact, I base my purchase decisions off them. But realistically, in this hobby, the figures are not too hard to quantify really.

So regarding the OP's query on rads to purchase, I hope this post helps.

It all comes down to each one of us' preferences in terms of temperature threshold, noise tolerance, etc., even in a money no object scenario really.

P.S.
Excuse the CPU choice. But I found that it's a very good CPU to test in this regards. I do have an Intel Exteme CPU. But that doesn't react so well with coolant temperature changes.

Plus it's a 220W! TDP CPU at stock. Overclocked, it's well above that threshold.

No spoilers on mobile too.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> I just finished my Asus X99M WS.


Very nice, clean build.









What are those light bars on the top and bottom? Don't think I've seen them before.


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Very nice, clean build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are those light bars on the top and bottom? Don't think I've seen them before.


Thanks mate. They are monsoon CCFL lights (200mm). There are also 2x 100mm behind the reservoir. I can light the case up with white light if i'm in the mood. When the side panel window is on, you don't really see the CCFL bulb much.

I can also toggle the CCFL lights with a switch i installed at the top of the case. I can stick my finger through the side holes to toggle it.


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Please add this to the list of soft tubing builds done right! Terrific job. I love the color palette.


Thanks Man. I'm glad curvey is still in the scene!


----------



## Idef1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*


Aargh I love this build!







I also have a Hex Gear R40 myself.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Man I see builds from SingularityComputers and basically give up trying to build the dream PC because of the amount of effort $ and skill needed.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Wow, it has been a long time since I logged on.

Over 100K posts?! This thread has become a monster since I created it!


----------



## Trestles126

few update. got the res mounted drilled the holes in the acrylic and top chasi. used rubber ssd spacers to make it soft mount for vibration. also ran the first tube and cut it to fit.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> few update. got the res mounted drilled the holes in the acrylic and top chasi. used rubber ssd spacers to make it soft mount for vibration. also ran the first tube and cut it to fit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


Looks awesome! Glad to see the board is getting it's block used. Too often do I see that board "under water" without it being used, or with just an AIO.

In other news, I settled on and ordered my next case today. It's the Lian Li PC-O11. I'm trying to find some good cooling layouts/options. What's everyone's opinion the following ideas?

Option 1:

The flow goes from the pump/reservoir combo -> bottom right GPU inlet (and parallel's through monoblock and top GPU -> bottom rad -> top rad -> pump inlet.
As you can see, this uses two medium thickness rads, with air intake on the bottom and the top acting as exhaust.


Option 2:

With this set up, I have the pump and reservoir mounted in the rear chamber. So, the order would be: pump/res into main chamber -> top rad -> bottom rad -> main components in parallel -> back to rear chamber into pump/reservoir. This set up would use a thick radiator as intake on bottom with push pull, and a push exhaust set up on top.


Option 3:

This set up also features the reservoir and pump in the rear chamber. The loop order also adds a bit more radiator space.
pump/res into main chamber -> top rad -> front rad -> main components -> bottom rad -> back into rear chamber pump/reservoir
While this seems like a good option at first, I'm wondering about the airflow of the case, and/or if it would actually not perform that well and look weird.



Option 4:

This final option would be a bit interesting. I'd basically be just using the bottom mount for radiator, and top mount for exhausting all the hot air from the radiator.
Pump -> main components -> radiator -> reservoir -> pump
I'm a bit interested by this approach. It seems rather simple, but like it might be relatively efficient.



As it stands right now, on a test bench with a 480x60mm rad and only one set of fans pushing (should really be push/pull) I'm getting a max of 70C on CPU and 45C on GPU's. If I could keep the CPU around that temperature and the GPU's under 50C, I'd be happy. I'm worried once in a case though, even a single radiator wouldn't be able to do that. Give me some opinions, guys and girls.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Got my first loop done today
> 
> *snip*


How are your temps with that setup? I have very similar hardware


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> How are your temps with that setup? I have very similar hardware


Stress tested the GPU's and CPU (oc'd to 4.2







) for about 30 minutes and the CPU was about 55*C while the GPU's were about 48*C


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Stress tested the GPU's and CPU (oc'd to 4.2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) for about 30 minutes and the CPU was about 55*C while the GPU's were about 48*C


What was the ambient and what were the fans @ ?


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> What was the ambient and what were the fans @ ?


Ambient unknown, I would say mid high 60s F, fans are running at 25%, having some issues now though. It doesn't seem to want to hold any OC, will report back after further testing


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I am putting together a new loop for 1 CPU and 1 GPU trying cant make up my mind if I should go for Alphacool MONSTA 560 ( 125€ ) or the HWL nemesis GTS 560 ( 110€ ) I want to run fans sub 1000rpm and both cost about as much, liking the alphacool for more ports so I can add tempsensors and drainport easily, and on the other hand I know HWL rad quality is awesome and GTS is designed for low RPM fans, oh the decisions, I also know that HWL nemesis GTX 560 would outperform both of these but I cant justify spending 75€ premium for it, but sorry for OT


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I am putting together a new loop for 1 CPU and 1 GPU trying cant make up my mind if I should go for Alphacool MONSTA 560 ( 125€ ) or the HWL nemesis GTS 560 ( 110€ ) I want to run fans sub 1000rpm and both cost about as much, liking the alphacool for more ports so I can add tempsensors and drainport easily, and on the other hand I know HWL rad quality is awesome and GTS is designed for low RPM fans, oh the decisions, I also know that HWL nemesis GTX 560 would outperform both of these but I cant justify spending 75€ premium for it, but sorry for OT


At sub 1000 RPM what you want is the Alphacool XT45, not the Monsta. The Monsta would actually perform worse.

As for HWL, the GTS is one of the best low RPM rads avaolable, but its has really high liquid flow restriction(Can be a problem if you're using a weaker pump but would be fine otherwise). The only radiator better than it would be the HWL SR-2. The GTX would be worse than both the GTS and SR-2 at sub 1000 RPM.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> At sub 1000 RPM what you want is the Alphacool XT45, not the Monsta. The Monsta would actually perform worse.
> 
> As for HWL, the GTS is one of the best low RPM rads avaolable, but its has really high liquid flow restriction(Can be a problem if you're using a weaker pump but would be fine otherwise. The only radiator better than it would be the HWL SR-2. The GTX would be worse than both the GTS and GTX at sub 1000 RPM.


The X Flow GTS (one port at each end) has less restriction than the traditional u flow model. My Swiftech H240X drives a CPU, GPU, VRM, and xflow just fine. 2k rpm to 3k rpm makes about a 1c water temp difference.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> At sub 1000 RPM what you want is the Alphacool XT45, not the Monsta. The Monsta would actually perform worse.
> 
> As for HWL, the GTS is one of the best low RPM rads avaolable, but its has really high liquid flow restriction(Can be a problem if you're using a weaker pump but would be fine otherwise). The only radiator better than it would be the HWL SR-2. The GTX would be worse than both the GTS and SR-2 at sub 1000 RPM.


Judging by these tests, and xtremerigs, the nemesis GTX is constantly the best on reasonable fan rpms only at high rpms does the GTR take the lead, and everything else doesn`t stand a chance, but lets be honest I wont pay double for a few degrees the nemesis GTX has over alphacools offerings or the nemesis GTS, hoping thermalbenches 560 nemesis GTS goes live soon then I know what to go for. And after checking the xtremerigs smaller rads alphacools XT45 and UT60 vs the monsta ( I know i want the 560 but if they compared the 360s I cans till make my conclusion ), no matter how low the rpm, monsta still won, plus it has the benefit of lookin beefy AF








Plus when benching it will surely outperform the thinner ones, when I crank the fans as far north as they are willing to go!
But Ill stop with the offtopic!


----------



## SIRobotics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> More than curious. Temps under load?


So ran aida64 Extreme FPU, cache and GPU stress together for an hour here is the temps. Beginning of plot is average use.

~50C at full load on CPU and GPU after an hour.


----------



## eskamobob1

Im looking for some inspo on how I will set up the loops I am planning out. What are your favorite dual (or more) loop setups with different colors in 2 or more loops?


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Im looking for some inspo on how I will set up the loops I am planning out. What are your favorite dual (or more) loop setups with different colors in 2 or more loops?


First build i remembered with dual colour loop









http://www.overclock.net/t/1534836/build-log-caselabs-sma8-gunmetal-white-two-tone-2011-v3-socket-the-division-complete


----------



## Wolfsbora

Look who's coming to the podcast:


----------



## Emissary of Pain

How does Hardwarelabs compare to EK ? ... I am looking at getting the 360GTR, is it worth it over EK's offerings ?

Which fans do you guys recommend ? (Red LED & No LED)


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> How does Hardwarelabs compare to EK ? ... I am looking at getting the 360GTR, is it worth it over EK's offerings ?
> 
> Which fans do you guys recommend ? (Red LED & No LED)


That's more of a personal preference. I personally have owned both EK and Hardware Labs, and I love my SR2's!! The GTR's seem to be built for higher fan speeds though. Google a review of the GTR and you should get a hit for the ThermalBench review and it has some great info on that particular rad.

My new favorite fans are the Corsair ML 120.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> First build i remembered with dual colour loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1534836/build-log-caselabs-sma8-gunmetal-white-two-tone-2011-v3-socket-the-division-complete












Appreciate that.

TCO


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> First build i remembered with dual colour loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1534836/build-log-caselabs-sma8-gunmetal-white-two-tone-2011-v3-socket-the-division-complete


damn, thats fantastic. Definitely added to my inspo for the loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate that.
> 
> TCO


You deserve the mention. Super clean dual loop there.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate that.
> 
> TCO


It's a really good color scheme. Everything contrasts really well.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> That's more of a personal preference. I personally have owned both EK and Hardware Labs, and I love my SR2's!! The GTR's seem to be built for higher fan speeds though. *Google a review of the GTR and you should get a hit for the ThermalBench review and it has some great info on that particular rad.
> *
> My new favorite fans are the Corsair ML 120.


He might end up finding a TechPowerUp review for the particular 360 mm size


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> damn, thats fantastic. Definitely added to my inspo for the loop.
> You deserve the mention. Super clean dual loop there.


Be sure to Note @snef Created the Original Bloody angel which "The Divison" Was created after.









TCO


----------



## VSG

New Bitspower Summit EF CPU block:



Available in options of acylic, nickel plated metal (copper? brass? who knows?) and gold plated metal. Neither of these should be on your to-buy list unless aesthetics is a fit.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> How does Hardwarelabs compare to EK ? ... I am looking at getting the 360GTR, is it worth it over EK's offerings ?
> 
> Which fans do you guys recommend ? (Red LED & No LED)


Both are good radiators, HWL has always a bit better in performance.

GTR are designed to be used at 1000 RPM and Higher. Their SR-2 line are designed for 800 RPM or lower (Just incase you want to run fans at lower RPM's)
EK Radiators are high FPI, Fans need to be running at higher rpm (around 1400) or doing push / Pull.

I personally favor Hardware Labs, I sold all my EK rads for HWL.

For fans I use Corsair ML Pro, Great performance and quiet. You can run the fans at lower RPM and get the same results of other fans that run at higher RPM.

As for LED, Corsair ML Pro do come in Red LED. I just with all solid black. Add some case lighting is more then enough (atlease for me).


----------



## Ceadderman

I ran Black Ice Stealth @ 1/2 - 3/4 rpm and it did quite well considering I was running low buck Yate Loons on it in Pull. It's 22fpi iirc. So one shouldn't shy away from running low rpms on a high fin density Radiator.









I ran mine up top in Exhaust. One could be run as Intake in pull as well. I can't say that all results will be the same but you never know til you fiddle round with the setup to get your ideal temps.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Both are good radiators, HWL has always a bit better in performance.
> 
> GTR are designed to be used at 1000 RPM and Higher. Their SR-2 line are designed for 800 RPM or lower (Just incase you want to run fans at lower RPM's)
> EK Radiators are high FPI, Fans need to be running at higher rpm (around 1400) or doing push / Pull.
> 
> I personally favor Hardware Labs, I sold all my EK rads for HWL.
> 
> For fans I use Corsair ML Pro, Great performance and quiet. You can run the fans at lower RPM and get the same results of other fans that run at higher RPM.
> 
> As for LED, Corsair ML Pro do come in Red LED. I just with all solid black. Add some case lighting is more then enough (atlease for me).


The EK pe rad is 19 fpi. That's not particularly high is it? I'd think you could run a moderately low rpm fan on that and be ok. I certainly hope so as I'll be running 3 sp120 QEs on my 360. Even at max speed they're still fairly quiet (to me, I know that's subjective).

*edit* just read it's 19fpi split fin. What does that mean? Sorry if that's a dumb question.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> The EK pe rad is 19 fpi. That's not particularly high is it? I'd think you could run a moderately low rpm fan on that and be ok. I certainly hope so as I'll be running 3 sp120 QEs on my 360. Even at max speed they're still fairly quiet (to me, I know that's subjective).


I believe all EK rads have high FPI. 19 Fpi is high, Hardware Labs SR-2 for example is 9.


----------



## Nameless101

Hello everyone! Would like to join the club with my first PC that I've built for myself. At the same time a big thank you to all the (watercooling) users on OCN, who inspired this build and made it all possible with informative build logs and forum posts. Cheers!


----------



## Bogga

Switched the colors in my loop. I had the white fluid in the gpu-loop with the black fittings, but swapped and went black-black and white-white... what do you think?

This is how it was before...



And afterwards (I've also redone one of the tubes)


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Both are good radiators, HWL has always a bit better in performance.
> 
> GTR are designed to be used at 1000 RPM and Higher. Their SR-2 line are designed for 800 RPM or lower (Just incase you want to run fans at lower RPM's)
> EK Radiators are high FPI, Fans need to be running at higher rpm (around 1400) or doing push / Pull.
> 
> I personally favor Hardware Labs, I sold all my EK rads for HWL.
> 
> For fans I use Corsair ML Pro, Great performance and quiet. You can run the fans at lower RPM and get the same results of other fans that run at higher RPM.
> 
> As for LED, Corsair ML Pro do come in Red LED. I just with all solid black. Add some case lighting is more then enough (atlease for me).


Thanks so much for the reply.

I was considering using 1500rpm fans anyway that is why I was interested in using the GTR over the SR2, but it seems like the SR2 is a huge winner with the watercooling community in general. (really just wanted to get away from the usual plain rads)

I was either looking at Parvum fans or eloops, but the eloops are ridiculously expensive (seems I have to import to my country) ... The corsair fans are definitely an option and I see a lot of people using them as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*


Is that the Glossy version or the Matte version of Table top unit?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks so much for the reply.
> 
> I was considering using 1500rpm fans anyway that is why I was interested in using the GTR over the SR2, but it seems like the SR2 is a huge winner with the watercooling community in general. (really just wanted to get away from the usual plain rads)
> 
> I was either looking at Parvum fans or eloops, but the eloops are ridiculously expensive (seems I have to import to my country) ... The corsair fans are definitely an option and I see a lot of people using them as well.


They are amazing fans, I'm very impressed by them. They even out perform what Corsair has posted own their own website. The fans (120) can hit close to 95 CFM at max & noise level is allot less then whats reported.

BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 High Speed Fans PWM are another option, They are harder to find since not allot of retailers sell them.

I really like the design of HWL rads (This is coming from someone who is super picky what my rads look like).


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Is that the Glossy version or the Matte version of Table top unit?


It's the matte version. Still plenty shiny, as you can see.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> It's the matte version. Still plenty shiny, as you can see.


Any chance you could post where you got it? I been looking for Matte version, Every place I look is sold out or they don't carry it. Aqua-Computer webstore is going take about a month before I would see it.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any chance you could post where you got it? I been looking for Matte version, Every place I look is sold out or they don't carry it. Aqua-Computer webstore is going take about a month before I would see it.


There's a german shop which seem to have it in stock... Shipping time is 3-4 work days.
https://www.pc-cooling.de/wasserkuehlung/zubehoer/steuerungen/1175/aqua-vision-touch-tischgeraet-mit-ir-und-temperatursensor-53238


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any chance you could post where you got it? I been looking for Matte version, Every place I look is sold out or they don't carry it. Aqua-Computer webstore is going take about a month before I would see it.


Yeah, I'm not sure what exactly is up with the incredibly long lead times on the VISION devices... I ordered mine straight from AquaComputer in November (together with a whole bunch of other stuff) and only received the order in the middle of January. The VISION device was the last thing holding up delivery. Unless you're in a rush to get it, I'd just place the order, since the lead times might not be getting better in a hurry.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> Yeah, I'm not sure what exactly is up with the incredibly long lead times on the VISION devices... I ordered mine straight from AquaComputer in November (together with a whole bunch of other stuff) and only received the order in the middle of January. The VISION device was the last thing holding up delivery. Unless you're in a rush to get it, I'd just place the order, since the lead times might not be getting better in a hurry.


I have an order placed with them. Placed it last month, AquaComputer told it will be about three weeks since their having problems getting the unit into the casing(The other vision products are ready to ship in my order). I just find it odd I can get the glossy version without issue but Matte version is basically impossible to find.

I been debating just to switch to glossy and paint the casing another color.


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I have an order placed with them. Placed it last month, AquaComputer told it will be about three weeks since their having problems getting the unit into the casing(The other vision products are ready to ship in my order). I just find it odd I can get the glossy version without issue but Matte version is basically impossible to find.
> 
> I been debating just to switch to glossy and paint the casing another color.


I see, I didn't know you already had the order placed. It is indeed odd that the glossy version is available, but it might just be down to the fact that the matte version had sold better.


----------



## Jyve

How much should I worry about using the top of a reservoir as the intake without an acrylic tube going beneath the coolant level. As far as air and turbulence caused by the falling coolant is concerned.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> Hello everyone! Would like to join the club with my first PC that I've built for myself. At the same time a big thank you to all the (watercooling) users on OCN, who inspired this build and made it all possible with informative build logs and forum posts. Cheers!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like matching look of of the radiators with the pipes and fittings.


----------



## phillyd

I just ran a system like this. It's quite difficult to get the loop properly bled, especially with a shorter res. I ended up attaching a barb to the inside of the reservoir cap to act as a shorter version of those tubes. This meant that I had to painstakingly fill the loop as it bled for a few hours (every half hour or so) to keep the level that close to the top.

If you get lucky, basically, and the water doesn't cause any bubbles that reach the pump, you will be fine. It does make filling more difficult though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> *They are amazing fans, I'm very impressed by them. They even out perform what Corsair has posted own their own website. The fans (120) can hit close to 95 CFM at max & noise level is allot less then whats reported.*
> 
> BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 High Speed Fans PWM are another option, They are harder to find since not allot of retailers sell them.
> 
> I really like the design of HWL rads (This is coming from someone who is super picky what my rads look like).


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> How much should I worry about using the top of a reservoir as the intake without an acrylic tube going beneath the coolant level. As far as air and turbulence caused by the falling coolant is concerned.


Is it the return from the loop? I could cause issues with bubbles continuing to circulate... Better to have the return line go to the lower part of the res if possible. Or, if the angle prevents that, skip the res. You don't actually need one as long as you can check level and top up elsewhere (I have an intake coming off the top of a res that loop from the bottom- only used to colled bubbles and fill as needed.


----------



## TheTou

This morning I realized I forgot the flow sensor....


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> How much should I worry about using the top of a reservoir as the intake without an acrylic tube going beneath the coolant level. As far as air and turbulence caused by the falling coolant is concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it the return from the loop? I could cause issues with bubbles continuing to circulate... Better to have the return line go to the lower part of the res if possible. Or, if the angle prevents that, skip the res. You don't actually need one as long as you can check level and top up elsewhere (I have an intake coming off the top of a res that loop from the bottom- only used to colled bubbles and fill as needed.
Click to expand...

^^^^This
A T-line before the pump inlet works just as well.
A bit slower maybe, and not as "fancy" or "convenient"; but it is "proven technology"


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Is it the return from the loop? I could cause issues with bubbles continuing to circulate... Better to have the return line go to the lower part of the res if possible. Or, if the angle prevents that, skip the res. You don't actually need one as long as you can check level and top up elsewhere (I have an intake coming off the top of a res that loop from the bottom- only used to colled bubbles and fill as needed.


Pump res is already purchased. It's not necessary for the return line to feed through the top, but thought it best to ask around if it's doable. I can feed it back through the bottom.

Here's a pic of the setup. Test fit everything before I run tubing.


----------



## RnRollie

You could check out your local DIY/hardware store, in the air compressors section. You should be able to find a G1/4 long barb nozzle there which you can screw in on the inside of the res.. providing there is enough thread for both the barb nozzle AND the fitting.

But yeah, if you want to avoid all that hassle, its much easier to just feed in from the bottom.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


No proof necessary as that statement is meaningless anyway.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Hi folks, do you have questions for B NEGATIVE & EK that you'd like to ask on this evening's podcast (6:00pm live on Twitch)?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Hi folks, do you have questions for B NEGATIVE & EK that you'd like to ask on this evening's podcast (6:00pm live on Twitch)?


I like to know ek s plans for making cases.


----------



## looniam

i just want to know if they let him wear that orange toupee at work.


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Hi folks, do you have questions for B NEGATIVE & EK that you'd like to ask on this evening's podcast (6:00pm live on Twitch)?


Please ask what's up with the new AIO teaser (EK-MLC) and what their plan for the EK-predator is.


----------



## Drizztly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Hi folks, do you have questions for B NEGATIVE & EK that you'd like to ask on this evening's podcast (6:00pm live on Twitch)?


Will they do fullcovers/mosfet+southbridge sets for mainboards again like they did for Maximus V Extreme etc.? I prefer the look of fullcovers/mosfet+southbridge sets over the monoblocks tbh.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Hi folks, do you have questions for B NEGATIVE & EK that you'd like to ask on this evening's podcast (6:00pm live on Twitch)?


Will EK ever sells white rads


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Hi folks, do you have questions for B NEGATIVE & EK that you'd like to ask on this evening's podcast (6:00pm live on Twitch)?


It has probably been answered somewhere here on this forums but what exactly does B do under the R&D department


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> It has probably been answered somewhere here on this forums but what exactly does B do under the *R&D department*


I suppose it would be under the Category of Research, and Development.










But then again, I could be wrong.









TCO


----------



## paskowitz

Something, something fan controller?

Seriously though, any chance we will see a design language evolution for EK products in the not too distant future?


----------



## Gilles3000

Indeed, Signalkuppe, what's going on? Is it still shelved, or worse?


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded on a fan controller, or an inline temp / flow sensor that could plug into one (to control fan speed)...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Indeed, Signalkuppe, what's going on? Is it still shelved, or worse?


2nded this is my ??? too.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I will be talking more about modding....NDA prevents much discussion about upcoming products.....


----------



## paskowitz

Understandable.

Have any existing EK products come directly from the modding scene?

Kinda obvious question, but I would still be interested in an answer... how have you taken your modding experience and applied it to your position at EK?

What do you feel makes a particular product "mod friendly"?

Seeing EK from the inside, what has surprised you the most?

Still going for future product questions, but what is EK's stance on 3D printing? Do they see it as an area for opportunity?


----------



## Ceadderman

A simple "Relax" about signalkuppe is all we need.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Emissary of Pain

@InfoSeeker

Block Arrived this morning, just wanted to thank you, helping me out like that really means a lot !!

There is no words to say thanks enough !! ... I hope you have a great day further


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A simple "Relax" about signalkuppe is all we need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can neither confirm nor deny anything, such is life..........


----------



## Ceadderman

Poop.









~Ceadder


----------



## dwolvin

signalkuppe? Is that a user here, or whaaa?


----------



## thetherington

As far I can tell, it's an aquaero like product.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Been a long time since I've posted in this thread. Couple shots of my latest project


----------



## RnRollie

whoa, excessive plumbing! Cool


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Been a long time since I've posted in this thread. Couple shots of my latest project
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really nice work!!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Check out the B NEGATIVE episode of Overclock.net Podcast: LIVE right over here -

Episode 35 - You Too Can Prevent Gin Violence


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> signalkuppe? Is that a user here, or whaaa?


Its the fan controller EK has been working on for a long time, it started out with Ascendacy, and that later on got a major redesign called Signalkuppe as far as I remember.


Spoiler: Prototype pics



Ascendancy:


Signalkuppe:


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Its the fan controller EK has been working on for a long time, it started out with Ascendacy, and that later on got a major redesign called Signalkuppe as far as I remember.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Prototype pics
> 
> 
> 
> Ascendancy:


I know that fan controllers can get hot, but how HOT does this thing get???


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> I know that fan controllers can get hot, but how HOT does this thing get???


Voltage control is not as efficient as PWM control, so some heat energy is expelled from the electric energy taken in. The second photo you see is from an all PWM controller, so no waterblock needed. Alternatively, you could also go with higher rated VRMs but that also means more money.


----------



## bluedevil

Just have to say this thing is a thing of beauty.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Just have to say this thing is a thing of beauty.


And what exactly is it


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> And what exactly is it


Its a Swiftech Komodo GTX 1080/70 FC waterblock silly.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Just have to say this thing is a thing of beauty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what exactly is it
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> And what exactly is it
> 
> 
> 
> Its a Swiftech Komodo GTX 1080/70 FC waterblock silly.
Click to expand...

And I was so sure it was a micro-channelled hydrocoptic marzelvane, made of the rarest of elements, unobtainiom . . . . .









Boy do I feel the dufus . .


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And I was so sure it was a micro-channelled hydrocoptic marzelvane, made of the rarest of elements, unobtainiom . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boy do I feel the dufus . .


bahaha....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Who needs a case?


----------



## Ceadderman

Noice!









I came up with a watercooling case/testbench deaign that will use everything from mITX to eATX and up to three 360/420 Radiators. Just need to build the prototype.









~Ceadder


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Noice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with a watercooling case/testbench deaign that will use everything from mITX to eATX and up to three 360/420 Radiators. Just need to build the prototype.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nice, make it happen. I made mine out of plywood and hardware from Home Depot. Not the prettiest, since I could have spent more time and more money on better stuff, but it's functional and cleared my desk. I seriously need to sleeve my GPU and Fan cables, they are a nightmare.


----------



## dwolvin

Still, it's a cool look, and I love how functional it is. I have been on the fence about doing something like this, and you have sealed the deal...


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Unluckily yes i don't think so too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the problem is that I also have the moonson one but it is also thin (same size that the alphacool one), guess that barrow is my last hope


Juste received the Barrow insert, and as expected, it is to big...
Trying to sand it down, but I don't know if there is a hope anymore...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Will be trying copper elbows from Home Depot with lead free solder and see how things go. I will powder coat all the pipes black when done. Not liking the way things are looking due to the huge bend radius on my tube bender.


----------



## ricercar

So I've had two pumps fail in 19 months. Swiftech MCP355 12 VDC DDC Pump. Is this anything like average lifespan? How long are they supposed to last?

The computer in which they are used is turned on for roughly 6 hours a day, 7 days a week. Would a pump last longer if it is continuously on, instead of power cycled every day?

One stopped working about 9 months ago, after only 11 months use. I thought, "OK, sometimes things break," and replaced it. Now the second one is intermittently failing when I power on the computer. I probably can't talk warranty because I had performance-pcs.com custom-sleeve them, and I re-housed them in Bitspower aluminum housings with acrylic tops. Anyone ever get warranty service on Swiftech pumps after such customization?

Curious about others' experience with the same pump. Curious about other pumps that might have a better reputation.


----------



## ruffhi

*I need your help ...*

I've been trying to install a filter into my loop ... one that I can clean without taking down the whole loop. This has involved some new drill holes, some new bends, some new parts, etc. I just have two more runs (to and from the CPU block) to bend and cut and then I can (re)fill my loop.

I was testing one of the tubes for length tonight ... and I realized that I have an option here.

Here is what I originally envisioned ... two very 'parallel' runs that were in lock step most of the way ...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























Here is my option that I realized as I was length testing my horizontal run ... I left the run down to the CPU block long ... only to reveal this option ...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























... where the run into the CPU block is higher than the return run to the reservoir. The tubes are one tube apart ... so that the spacing between the tubes is a tube width. The second option is that I offset the tubes running back from the CPU block (after they do the 90° turn) one tube length horizontally *AND* vertically.

So ... what say you ... should I have them offset over and up ... or at the same height?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> So I've had two pumps fail in 19 months. Swiftech MCP355 12 VDC DDC Pump. Is this anything like average lifespan? How long are they supposed to last?
> 
> The computer in which they are used is turned on for roughly 6 hours a day, 7 days a week. Would a pump last longer if it is continuously on, instead of power cycled every day?
> 
> One stopped working about 9 months ago, after only 11 months use. I thought, "OK, sometimes things break," and replaced it. Now the second one is intermittently failing when I power on the computer. I probably can't talk warranty because I had performance-pcs.com custom-sleeve them, and I re-housed them in Bitspower aluminum housings with acrylic tops. Anyone ever get warranty service on Swiftech pumps after such customization?
> 
> Curious about others' experience with the same pump. Curious about other pumps that might have a better reputation.


The MTBF for that pump is rated for 50,000 hours. 6 hours a day, 7 days a week, for 19 months is only around 3500 hours of run time. One pump should last you longer than that, not to mention you've had two fail in that time. I'm not sure if Swiftech covers pumps with customizations, but they do have a 2 year warranty so it might be good to check out.


----------



## Ceadderman

iirc, those pumps should have a 1 year warranty. So your 11mos pump should be good for RMA. Not sure what the average lifespan is for DDC but I would expect longer than 1 year unless you ran them dry at any point. Mine easily lasted that long in a 24hr setup, but they were DDC-1t units. Did you have them set up in good airflow environment? Excessive heat will kill a DDC pump.









~Ceadder


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> So I've had two pumps fail in 19 months. Swiftech MCP355 12 VDC DDC Pump. Is this anything like average lifespan? How long are they supposed to last?
> 
> The computer in which they are used is turned on for roughly 6 hours a day, 7 days a week. Would a pump last longer if it is continuously on, instead of power cycled every day?
> 
> One stopped working about 9 months ago, after only 11 months use. I thought, "OK, sometimes things break," and replaced it. Now the second one is intermittently failing when I power on the computer. I probably can't talk warranty because I had performance-pcs.com custom-sleeve them, and I re-housed them in Bitspower aluminum housings with acrylic tops. Anyone ever get warranty service on Swiftech pumps after such customization?
> 
> Curious about others' experience with the same pump. Curious about other pumps that might have a better reputation.


Not sure why they are failing. You're not running them dry prior to filling right? My swiftech pump is going on 4 years now. Haven't had any problems. Either way both should be under warranty.


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Did you have them set up in good airflow environment? Excessive heat will kill a DDC pump.


Pretty good airflow. They were situated in the middle of an always-open large case on the side away from the wall, directly below some EDIT intake exhaust fans. The interior temp never feels warmer than ambient.



--

Neither ever ran dry. I made sure to prime them each before powering them up the first time. And in use neither ever had the opportunity to run dry.

--

It occurs to me to wonder about flow constriction making the pump work too hard. I was using one pump on 2x 480 rads, 2x 240 rads, 3x GPU blocks, motherboard VRM block, and a CPU block. Is this too much for one pump, likely to affect lifespan significantly?

EDIT: TYVM for quick replies to consider.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think I may see the problem. Check your power cables for pinching. Apparently some aftermarket case housings don't allow much room for the cables over the stock plastic housings.









I know he gets beat up round these parts, but Jayz2Cents recently did a vid on his channel about failed DDCs. His testbench setup is a DDC unit and it went Teas Up, prompting the video. He replaced the unit and that one died too. He gave it closer scrutiny and found that his cables were pinched causing the pcb great harm.









So that would be my best guess seeing that aftermarket housing on your DDC. If that's the issue RMA would be voided, unless Swiftech says otherwise.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> So I've had two pumps fail in 19 months. Swiftech MCP355 12 VDC DDC Pump. Is this anything like average lifespan? How long are they supposed to last?
> 
> The computer in which they are used is turned on for roughly 6 hours a day, 7 days a week. Would a pump last longer if it is continuously on, instead of power cycled every day?
> 
> One stopped working about 9 months ago, after only 11 months use. I thought, "OK, sometimes things break," and replaced it. Now the second one is intermittently failing when I power on the computer. I probably can't talk warranty because I had performance-pcs.com custom-sleeve them, and I re-housed them in Bitspower aluminum housings with acrylic tops. Anyone ever get warranty service on Swiftech pumps after such customization?
> 
> Curious about others' experience with the same pump. Curious about other pumps that might have a better reputation.


Swiftech voids warranties on after market tops as not all follow manufacture specs.

It is easy to un sleeve stuff.

Just put oem tops and bodies back in and you will be fine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> So I've had two pumps fail in 19 months. Swiftech MCP355 12 VDC DDC Pump. Is this anything like average lifespan? How long are they supposed to last?
> 
> The computer in which they are used is turned on for roughly 6 hours a day, 7 days a week. Would a pump last longer if it is continuously on, instead of power cycled every day?
> 
> One stopped working about 9 months ago, after only 11 months use. I thought, "OK, sometimes things break," and replaced it. Now the second one is intermittently failing when I power on the computer. I probably can't talk warranty because I had performance-pcs.com custom-sleeve them, and I re-housed them in Bitspower aluminum housings with acrylic tops. Anyone ever get warranty service on Swiftech pumps after such customization?
> 
> Curious about others' experience with the same pump. Curious about other pumps that might have a better reputation.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure why they are failing. You're not running them dry prior to filling right? My swiftech pump is going on 4 years now. Haven't had any problems. Either way both should be under warranty.
Click to expand...

Some of mine are over 5 years


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure they won't stand behind pinched cables though. Pinched cables lead to overloading the power circuits.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think I may see the problem. Check your power cables for pinching. Apparently some aftermarket case housings don't allow much room for the cables over the stock plastic housings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know he gets beat up round these parts, but Jayz2Cents recently did a vid on his channel about failed DDCs. His testbench setup is a DDC unit and it went Teas Up, prompting the video. He replaced the unit and that one died too. He gave it closer scrutiny and found that his cables were pinched causing the pcb great harm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that would be my best guess seeing that aftermarket housing on your DDC. If that's the issue RMA would be voided, unless Swiftech says otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Addressing the comment about aftermarket housing accommodating the cables is very true. Used numerous bitspower ddc heatsinks and you really need to watch how you install it.

TCO

EDIT: Pretty sure Diva carves out the back where the cables fit too. It is very tight.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question. Is 160 GPH enough power for one 560 radiator with 60mm thickness and a filter? I'm trying to build a standalone flush system. The 160 GPH pump has the barbs I need. Where more powerful pumps will not work with the tubing I have.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question. Is 160 GPH enough power for one 560 radiator with 60mm thickness and a filter? I'm trying to build a standalone flush system. The 160 GPH pump has the barbs I need. Where more powerful pumps will not work with the tubing I have.


that should be ok since is about ~2.7 GPM. But it will depend on the filter and the amount of restriction it will create. Honestly, just use the old hot/warm water shake like hell and repeat process. You will get a clean rad without the money and trouble. Repeat until is clean (use a coffee filter to confirm that water is clean). Then just rinse with distilled and you are good to go.


----------



## dwolvin

Have any of you run Alphacool DC-LT 2600 / 3600's?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Just a friendly reminder that our very own B NEGATIVE was a guest on the Overclock.net Podcast! Listen to the man right here!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> that should be ok since is about ~2.7 GPM. But it will depend on the filter and the amount of restriction it will create. Honestly, just use the old hot/warm water shake like hell and repeat process. You will get a clean rad without the money and trouble. Repeat until is clean (use a coffee filter to confirm that water is clean). Then just rinse with distilled and you are good to go.


I have to many radiators to go through, for the old shake method. Plus I rather being work on the other aspects of my PC build while the pump does the work for me.

This is the filter I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZXCI9I/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I hope the solder doesn't melt when powder coating.


----------



## dwolvin

Ug, that would suck.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think I may see the problem. Check your power cables for pinching. Apparently some aftermarket case housings don't allow much room for the cables over the stock plastic housings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know he gets beat up round these parts, but Jayz2Cents recently did a vid on his channel about failed DDCs. His testbench setup is a DDC unit and it went Teas Up, prompting the video. He replaced the unit and that one died too. He gave it closer scrutiny and found that his cables were pinched causing the pcb great harm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that would be my best guess seeing that aftermarket housing on your DDC. If that's the issue RMA would be voided, unless Swiftech says otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Addressing the comment about aftermarket housing accommodating the cables is very true. Used numerous bitspower ddc heatsinks and you really need to watch how you install it.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: *Pretty sure Diva carves out the back where the cables fit too. It is very tight*.
Click to expand...

Good memory, The Cerebral One

I only ever use the 35X model, which is the PWM version of the DDC, and yes, since the very first one, I always dremel a bit more clearance for the wires, especially important for the 4 wire PWM ones.

I also cut a piece of the plastic that the thermal pad peals off and cut it to fit so it isolates the wires from the inside of the metal housing.

You really have to check the solder connections of the wires, as once in a while, a wire seems like it isn't positioned properly on the solder pad and rubs against the housing.

I recall doing a post with pics on this a while back, but it's been a year or more and I couldn't find it.

Darlene


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Ug, that would suck.


Going to try on a test piece and set the oven to 350 instead of 450. If not I will have to air brush some automotive grade paint.

Edit: solder holds up fine at 350 F.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> *Good memory, The Cerebral One*
> 
> Darlene


Sometimes..... only sometimes.

TCO


----------



## Jyve

Quick question concerning my loop. You may notice the 2 angled fitting adapters on the inlet of the cpu. The reason for this is EK said that particular port on the cpu is the ideal inlet. Is there much of a difference in performance if I were to swap those ports?

*edit* disregard. I put the wrong tube on there. In my mind the loop was going the other way.


----------



## Jyve

That's better.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> That's better.


Much


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> I hope the solder doesn't melt when powder coating.


Use silver aka hard solder... iirc 5% requires 1400 degree f... then it won't be a problem


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Use silver aka hard solder... iirc 5% requires 1400 degree f... then it won't be a problem


Yeah, that's the way to go, but for now setting the oven at 350F works ok.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> 
> 
> That's better.


What tube is that?

Also I would put a 90 on the bottom of the GPU. Use that 60 on the RAD or CPU.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> What tube is that?
> 
> Also I would put a 90 on the bottom of the GPU. Use that 60 on the RAD or CPU.


I'm pretty sure that's EK's ZMT tubing.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that's EK's ZMT tubing.


They they stop with 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD sizes altogether?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> What tube is that?
> 
> Also I would put a 90 on the bottom of the GPU. Use that 60 on the RAD or CPU.


Yeah it is the zmt stuff from ek. I was tempted to go clear tubing but decided against it. I'd be too tempted to dye it and honestly don't want any potential of a headache due to dye. Also I dig the zmt. The cpu block and some of the tubing is from the EK predator kit that I removed.

You're probably right with the swap of fittings but since it's leak free I think I can live with it.

I ran out of 90s. When I ordered the fittings I went with 4 90s and 4 45s thinking that would cover me.


----------



## Jyve

PS:

Maybe I'm going deaf in my old age or my tolerance for noise has dropped but the d5 plugged into an external psu while leak testing is way quiet.

I'm assuming it's running at 100% without the pwm cable hooked up.

I hear (pun intended) people say there's a 'whine' or 'sound' with d5s at anything higher than x% but I just don't hear it. Nothing else in the rig is running. No fans or anything. Just the pump and psu and it's pretty dern quiet. To me anyway.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> PS:
> 
> Maybe I'm going deaf in my old age or my tolerance for noise has dropped but the d5 plugged into an external psu while leak testing is way quiet.
> 
> I'm assuming it's running at 100% without the pwm cable hooked up.
> 
> I hear (pun intended) people say there's a 'whine' or 'sound' with d5s at anything higher than x% but I just don't hear it. Nothing else in the rig is running. No fans or anything. Just the pump and psu and it's pretty dern quiet. To me anyway.


IIRC it's at 60% with the D5 - I think I read that somewhere. With the DDC's it's usually 100%. Of course, I'm only about 60% confident in that value so it could be 100% too


----------



## hidethecookies

Just to let everyone know there is a good deal on d5 strongs on eBay. 33 dollars shipped no top though. Still awesome deal. http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Laing-D5-Strong-DU-72250-Ecocirc-24V-DC-Circulation-Pump-50-PSI-3-5-Bar-/332123414921?txnId=1377505849014


----------



## IT Diva

Not too bad lookin' for a Turdmaltake . . .





Both areas are RGBW and can be programmed independently.

Darlene


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Any recent cases that come with Tempered glass and have 360 RAD support + 2 bays?


----------



## rathar3

Got my rx480 in today and piped up. Also added some corsair vengeance LPX 16gigs 3000 speed white ram to match the mb and case








Still need the ATX cable but thats coming. Used all monsoon fittings MMRS res. sleeved all the white and purple cables myself. Added some cablemods dual LED's


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Got my rx480 in today and piped up. Also added some corsair vengeance LPX 16gigs 3000 speed white ram to match the mb and case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need the ATX cable but thats coming. Used all monsoon fittings MMRS res. sleeved all the white and purple cables myself. Added some cablemods dual LED's


How far have you clocked it?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> PS:
> 
> Maybe I'm going deaf in my old age or my tolerance for noise has dropped but the d5 plugged into an external psu while leak testing is way quiet.
> 
> I'm assuming it's running at 100% without the pwm cable hooked up.
> 
> I hear (pun intended) people say there's a 'whine' or 'sound' with d5s at anything higher than x% but I just don't hear it. Nothing else in the rig is running. No fans or anything. Just the pump and psu and it's pretty dern quiet. To me anyway.


my d5 at speed 4 has always been silent.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Nice Rathar!

I'm doing a build for a client atm that should look and function nicely




im transferring this ^
into an In Win 909 case

6700k (4.7/4.6Cache stable realbench 1 hr under 1.40v on initial testing with aio- nice chip)
z170 Sabertooth S
2x Galax gtx 1080 HOF cards

fitting-
cpu/vrm Sabertooth Waterblock
Bitspower Waterblocks on 1080 HOF cards
EK d5 REVO 250mm
EK 360 and 240 rads
water thermal sensor
flexible tube but mapped straight as possible point to point
Gskill Trident Z 3733 B-Die 17-17-17-37
Ek pastel blue to fill

waiting on fittings and maybe a bitspower sli waterbridge but so far-


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Any recent cases that come with Tempered glass and have 360 RAD support + 2 bays?


Bays, as in 5.25" bays?

If so:

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass
be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 (Maybe, depends on your 5.25"devices.)

Last and very much least:

Thermaltake Core X31 Tempered Glass Edition
Thermaltake Core X71 Tempered Glass Edition


----------



## Cool Runnings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> How far have you clocked it?


Please don't quote all the images just for a question









EDIT:
Congtats for making me do my first post on this eminent forum


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Bays, as in 5.25" bays?
> 
> If so:
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass
> be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 (Maybe, depends on your 5.25"devices.)
> 
> Last and very much least:
> 
> Thermaltake Core X31 Tempered Glass Edition
> Thermaltake Core X71 Tempered Glass Edition


That is perfect. Thanks for the suggestion. I knew about 900 but it's a bit too expensive for me. Probably get Entho Luxe if I stay with ITX.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well heres my latest changes feels like im never gonna get this completely finished got a gpu and maybe new cpu and motherboard to change when taxes come in. Pretty happy with it other then drain line don't look very good but serves its purpose any suggestions to make it look better or cool better i have 140mm fans coming in to put in pull on the 420 rad.


----------



## Sazexa

Progress on the system update so far. Today, this mess...



Changed into this not-so-messy thing.





Going to buy the tubing and fittings next week, and perhaps start the mods then as well. Debating on keeping the current cable sleeving or switching to just all black. There will also be another EK PE 360 on the bottom once this system is done.


----------



## Trestles126

Little more progress today. Ran out of stainless need another 2-3ft to run gpus... darn it!

Most things line up pretty well plumb. Not bad for drawing it out on cardboard and sending it to Jim. The measurements where taxin on the brain to get the tip res and plate below to line up right.. also undid my 24pin ran thru plate and rewired.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Progress on the system update so far. Today, this mess...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Changed into this not-so-messy thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to buy the tubing and fittings next week, and perhaps start the mods then as well. Debating on keeping the current cable sleeving or switching to just all black. There will also be another EK PE 360 on the bottom once this system is done.


I kind of like seeing the OpenBenchTable like that, but I definitely understand the desire to have one's rig tidier... ^_^


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I kind of like seeing the OpenBenchTable like that, but I definitely understand the desire to have one's rig tidier... ^_^


The OBT is still an excellent buy, and I'm definitely going to use it for other builds, or when testing new hardware.


----------



## lexer

Just finished my first rigid tubing build .... the WD Green need to go ahahah


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Just finished my first rigid tubing build .... the WD Green need to go ahahah
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good!


----------



## dwolvin

Nice lookign setup- what type of tubing is that?


----------



## lexer

Thanks guys !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Nice lookign setup- what type of tubing is that?


Primochill PETG 1/2in


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I kind of like seeing the OpenBenchTable like that, but I definitely understand the desire to have one's rig tidier... ^_^


I can tell I've been hanging around the headphone club too long when the first thing that caught my eye was the Schiit amp/DAC combo peeking in from the left of the photo







.

@Sazexa, that new build looks very tidy







.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I can tell I've been hanging around the headphone club too long when the first thing that caught my eye was the Schiit amp/DAC combo peeking in from the left of the photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @Sazexa, that new build looks very tidy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Oh, I noticed that too... It's just not that often you see someone rocking an OBT as they're mainly used just by benchers ^_^


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Well it was time for some kind of improvement and I felt itch so.



I ordered an ultrawide and added the HUE+.





Now I guess I wait for Ryzen.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Which screen is that?


----------



## tongerks

can somebody confirm to me if thermaltake pump res combo and ek res tube are interchangeable to each other?


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Which screen is that?


LG 34UM67. Newegg for like $400 something.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> can somebody confirm to me if thermaltake pump res combo and ek res tube are interchangeable to each other?


You going to have to measure TT tube and see if TT tube is threaded the same. If I had to guess I would say no.


----------



## madweazl

Corsair Commander arrived the other day so I was able to hook up the Monsoon temp plug and a temp sensor to read ambient temps (placed at the front panel intake fan). After a little over two hours of Prime95, the Delta T on the loop was about 5°; it fluctuated between 4.6-5.3° depending on pump and fan speeds (both controlled by the CPU and CPU_Opt headers of the motherboard). I image if both were running at full speed, that might even get a little better.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://flic.kr/p/R473CN


----------



## Prophet4NO1

With US oil gearing back up, I am looking to head back to the patch. With the return of oil money comes the itch to do a new build. Thinking of getting my first Case Labs case. Looking at the S8 with rads in a pedestal. Maybe one more rad on the left side where the drive cages can go. Ideally, I want to use as many windows as I can up top. Still in the early thinking stages.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> With US oil gearing back up, I am looking to head back to the patch. With the return of oil money comes the itch to do a new build. Thinking of getting my first Case Labs case. Looking at the S8 with rads in a pedestal. Maybe one more rad on the left side where the drive cages can go. Ideally, I want to use as many windows as I can up top. Still in the early thinking stages.


Oil rig theme build!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Oil rig theme build!


That would actually be really cool. I hate making sweeping statements, but I don't think that has been done before. I could actually see the shape of an oil platform working well as the starting point for a moded PC. You could even do a dual loop with one color being blue (water) and the other black (oil).


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Oil rig theme build!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That would actually be really cool. I hate making sweeping statements, but I don't think that has been done before. I could actually see the shape of an oil platform working well as the starting point for a moded PC. You could even do a dual loop with one color being blue (water) and the other black (oil).


Well, technically I have been doing wireline and will be going back to that. We work out of a truck that has a spool of cable with a copper conductor core. We can run various instruments and tools off of it. Anything from logging data to explosives. It's actually one of the key parts of frac operations. We run a tool string downhole with a plug on the end. Set the plug above the last frac zone and then shoot over perforation charges for the next frac stage. Once we get the tool out they frac that zone. A lot of times we "zipper frac" two or more wells. Wireline in one, frac in the other.

As for a theme build, maybe. The kind of oil we get from shale frac looks nothing like what people think oil looks like. It's a baby crap yellow/green color. Not a good look. lol Joking aside, my modding skills are not good enough to make a cool oil themed build. I am thinking of going hard tubing this time even though I hate working with it. That with black and gold Mayhems Aurora might be cool. I have seen that in a rig before.


----------



## Blackops_2

For the bitspower crystal links...when they say 3-slots do they mean PCI-E slots or the exhaust slots on the rear of the case? Just curious i had a 3-slot set for my 780s and can't get them reach. I have the cards in slots 1-3. I've got a 4 slot set on the way but i was wondering if misread that.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> For the bitspower crystal links...when they say 3-slots do they mean PCI-E slots or the exhaust slots on the rear of the case? Just curious i had a 3-slot set for my 780s and can't get them reach. I have the cards in slots 1-3. I've got a 4 slot set on the way but i was wondering if misread that.


I always took it as PCI-E (Like a SLI Bridge). I never bought SLI fittings, I can't really say for sure.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> For the bitspower crystal links...when they say 3-slots do they mean PCI-E slots or the exhaust slots on the rear of the case? Just curious i had a 3-slot set for my 780s and can't get them reach. I have the cards in slots 1-3. I've got a 4 slot set on the way but i was wondering if misread that.


Three exhaust slots if its the one I am thinking of.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Three exhaust slots if its the one I am thinking of.


Probably. It's the one with the two 12mm acrylic pieces that are held in place by tension i guess.


----------



## kgtuning

Okay so my google fu is sucking tonight... I can't find a comparison of a Swiftech 655 vario and the Laing D5 strong at 12 volts. Is it worth while to use the D5 strong at 12 volts? or is it the same/ similar performance to a 655 vario at setting 5? please and thank you


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Okay so my google fu is sucking tonight... I can't find a comparison of a Swiftech 655 vario and the Laing D5 strong at 12 volts. Is it worth while to use the D5 strong at 12 volts? or is it the same/ similar performance to a 655 vario at setting 5? please and thank you


The vario at setting 5 will perform better than a D5 strong at 12 volts.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The vario at setting 5 will perform better than a D5 strong at 12 volts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welp that answers that.. Thank you very much. I had saw a bunch of posts ago an ebay listing for cheap D5 strongs so I just figured I'd ask.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Any charts for 2x D5 12v versus 1x D5 strong?

Or a pump top comparison?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Any charts for 2x D5 12v versus 1x D5 strong?
> 
> Or a pump top comparison?


I couldn't find any charts for 2x D5 12v pumps vs a single D5 strong, but in series the 2x D5 pumps would have approximately twice the head pressure of a single pump. In a series setup, the dual D5 pumps at 12v using setting 5 would get you around 2 PSI higher than a single D5 strong at 24v (assuming max restriction, it varies based on loop restriction but check the chart I posted previously for more detail). Note that this doesn't account for loss due to the pump top or fittings between the two pumps. Based on the chart I posted above, a single D5 strong at 24v would have more head pressure than 2x D5 vario pumps at 12v with both on setting 4 regardless of loop restriction.


----------



## charliebrown

have a quick ? i have 2 alphacool square d5 tops i like the rounded look of ek tops cant i sand these down to make them round then polish them back up dont want to shell out over $100 for new tops


----------



## Ceadderman

I wouldn't, that's a lot of material to remove. I'd sell them and pay the difference for the EK top.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> have a quick ? i have 2 alphacool square d5 tops i like the rounded look of ek tops cant i sand these down to make them round then polish them back up dont want to shell out over $100 for new tops


If you have the skills then sure, but as Ceader says it is easier to replace it if looks is that important.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Okay so my google fu is sucking tonight... I can't find a comparison of a Swiftech 655 vario and the Laing D5 strong at 12 volts. Is it worth while to use the D5 strong at 12 volts? or is it the same/ similar performance to a 655 vario at setting 5? please and thank you


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I couldn't find any charts for 2x D5 12v pumps vs a single D5 strong, but in series the 2x D5 pumps would have approximately twice the head pressure of a single pump. In a series setup, the dual D5 pumps at 12v using setting 5 would get you around 2 PSI higher than a single D5 strong at 24v (assuming max restriction, it varies based on loop restriction but check the chart I posted previously for more detail). Note that this doesn't account for loss due to the pump top or fittings between the two pumps. Based on the chart I posted above, a single D5 strong at 24v would have more head pressure than 2x D5 vario pumps at 12v with both on setting 4 regardless of loop restriction.


twin d5 vario in series



Single d5 strong 12V



Single d5 strong 24V



Unfortunately it looks like most of Martins testing data of the RP452x2 is not showing on his wordpress site. We can use tests of other single D5 tops to compare with very close results though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> have a quick ? i have 2 alphacool square d5 tops i like the rounded look of ek tops cant i sand these down to make them round then polish them back up dont want to shell out over $100 for new tops


The problem is not so much the material to remove,rather making the tops round....its very difficult to do unless you know someone with a lathe?


----------



## Blackops_2

Anyone know for the bitspower summit if i could just buy an AMD bracket for it and go? Or if they will be putting out AM4 compatible brackets?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

From what I know about AMD, their cooler mounting has not and is not planned to change from AM2-AM4


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> From what I know about AMD, their cooler mounting has not and is not planned to change from AM2-AM4


The mounting holes on the board are slightly different on AM4. The clip system is the same. So, if it uses the clip you are good to go. If the plastic base needs to be removed for the cooler to bolt to the mobo, you will need a new bracket/backplate for the cooler.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> From what I know about AMD, their cooler mounting has not and is not planned to change from AM2-AM4


I believe AM4 is slightly different. EK had an AM4 mount adapter for sale as of now.


----------



## Blackops_2

Probably email Bitspower. I have my supremacy EVO on my 3770k and was saving the Summit for my rig as i love the smoked acrylic. Noticed they're offering LED holes in them now, back when i got mine there were none. But yeah i hope i can get a backplate for it. I'm sure they will i'm not building any time soon. At some point closer to 2018 i plan on moving to 144hz 1440p, Ryzen, Vega, etc.


----------



## Yukss

first time with petg, im a long time watercooling user, this build will improve more and more with the time.. im waiting for a base and top for my d5 pump, 90s fittings, better bending and some dye color.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I should be done with this project tonight.

Before and after powder coated copper pipes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I believe AM4 is slightly different. EK had an AM4 mount adapter for sale as of now.


Correct. AM4 is different to preceding sockets


----------



## sinnedone

I believe I read somewhere that the difference is not so much on the mounting but that the chips sit at a different height. Dont quote me on that since I've been trying to keep up with the AMD stuff in between life. lol


----------



## charliebrown

can i use this in my loop home depot sales it just asking saw it when i was looking for chrome copper only $6 for 20in


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> can i use this in my loop home depot sales it just asking saw it when i was looking for chrome copper only $6 for 20in


Chrome copper? Dang I bought regular copper from Home Depot. Wish I saw this sooner for my build. You can use this on your rig without any problems.

I just finish putting together my powder coated copper pipes, and finally got around to sleeving the radiator fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> 
> can i use this in my loop home depot sales it just asking saw it when i was looking for chrome copper only $6 for 20in


Only if you use fittings to connect them. Bending chrome plating is no go. You're more likely to wrinkle the finish if you attempt bending it.









~Ceadder


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Only if you use fittings to connect them. Bending chrome plating is no go. You're more likely to wrinkle the finish if you attempt bending it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


wow so i would have to buy a bunch of 90s still these are cheap i just might do it


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> wow so i would have to buy a bunch of 90s still these are cheap i just might do it


6$ for one stick? Buy it and try to bend it.. worst case you throw 6$ away. Just use the appropriate bender. Isn't that a sink/toilet riser? Its probably pretty soft copper.


----------



## D13mass

Hi guys! I ordered new case, it will be Thermaltake Core X9 and now I have dilemma, because I want to sell current radiator Mo-Ra 9*140mm, I want to build new system in case.

So, I`m thinking about install two 420mm on top :

Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm radiator
OR
Phobya G-Changer 420 V.2 - Full Copper
Do you have any recommendations ?

I had Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 but in 240mm size and I can say it`s a good radiator.









*PS* Why 420mm - because I have many 140mm new fans








And why only summary 6 sections - because I have one radiator 240mm, so in result I will have 8 section, for my config it`s enough.


----------



## isynapse93

It comes to one of my mod of In Win 805 infinity, project finished a few days ago








Specs:
-Case: In Win 805 Infinity Mirror Mod by iSynapse93
-Cpu: i7 3770k 5.0 ghz uncovered
-Ram: 16 Gb (4x4) G.skill tridentx 2400mhz ddr3
-Gpu: Nvidia Gtx 780TI Msi Gaming
-Mb: Asus Sabertooth z77 skt 1155
-Psu: Ocz 850w gold series
-Hd: Velociraptor 1tb + Ssd samsung 840 evo 500gb
-Wb ek supremacy cpu
-Wb kryographics for GTX 780 Ti acrylic glass edition
-Flowmeter barrow
-Rigid Pipe alphacool blue uv 13/10
-Fitting alphacool 13
-Pump Sanso pdh 054 12v + Laing DDC-1RT/Plus
-Reservoir 400mm frozenq lf reaction blue + 250mm frozenq lf reaction blue + Skull head bottle Mod by iSynapse93
-Radiator Phobya 360mm
-Cover Psu pvc black mod by iSynapse93
-Fan circle led barrow
-Led strips In Win

T-VIRUS INFINITY MIRROR


----------



## Deedaz

Looks great...but 44 pics! Might want to spoiler tag them before you get flamed.


----------



## looniam

posts like that _almost_ make me feel bad for those using their handset.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe


----------



## isynapse93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Looks great...but 44 pics! Might want to spoiler tag them before you get flamed.


Are you scared for a few photos? ??


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isynapse93*
> 
> Are you scared for a few photos? ??


Lol

But seriously though, go edit your post, keep 5 or so pics shown and put the rest in a spoiler tag.


----------



## dwolvin

What is the rear case fan?

Great looking rig!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Lol
> 
> But seriously though, go edit your post, keep 5 or so pics shown and put the rest in a spoiler tag.


What kind of trouble would someone get if they post too many pics? Lol


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What kind of trouble would someone get if they post too many pics? Lol


Trouble? Not a whole lot, maybe a remark from a moderator at most.

Its just a bother to other users, definitely the ones on mobile devices. Nothing wrong with using spoiler tags on large image dumps and quotes, just for common courtesy's sake.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Trouble? Not a whole lot, maybe a remark from a moderator at most.
> 
> Its just a bother to other users, definitely the ones on mobile devices. Nothing wrong with using spoiler tags on large image dumps and quotes, just for common courtesy's sake.


That makes perfect sense. Just that at first you made it seem like it's a really bad thing to so and considering the name of the thread, it made me wonder. It probably be worse if a bunch of us quoted without using spoiler,


----------



## dwolvin

Well, give the Mod a blister and see what happens...


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice use of a Crystal Skull Wadka bottle.









~Ceadder


----------



## isynapse93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Trouble? Not a whole lot, maybe a remark from a moderator at most.
> 
> Its just a bother to other users, definitely the ones on mobile devices. Nothing wrong with using spoiler tags on large image dumps and quotes, just for common courtesy's sake.


Sorry Gilles you're right, edited post


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That makes perfect sense. Just that at first you made it seem like it's a really bad thing to so and considering the name of the thread, it made me wonder. It probably be worse if a bunch of us quoted without using spoiler,


No kidding, a while ago someone posted a fair amount of pictures of his rig, 20-25-ish, which is not that bad on its own. But right after 3 guys quoted the entire bloody post, felt like I was swiping forever on my phone.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isynapse93*
> 
> Sorry Gilles you're right, edited post


Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isynapse93*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Trouble? Not a whole lot, maybe a remark from a moderator at most.
> 
> Its just a bother to other users, definitely the ones on mobile devices. Nothing wrong with using spoiler tags on large image dumps and quotes, just for common courtesy's sake.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Gilles you're right, edited post
Click to expand...

Much better now, . . .

You had me hooked with the infinity panel anyway.

Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That makes perfect sense. Just that at first you made it seem like it's a really bad thing to so and considering the name of the thread, it made me wonder. It probably be worse if a bunch of us quoted without using spoiler,
> 
> 
> 
> No kidding, a while ago someone posted a fair amount of pictures of his rig, 20-25-ish, which is not that bad on its own. But right after 3 guys quoted the entire bloody post, felt like I was swiping forever on my phone.
Click to expand...

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Good thing I checked in from the Desktop otherwise I woulda been...








wth is wrong with my phoooooone!


















~Ceadder


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> No kidding, a while ago someone posted a fair amount of pictures of his rig, 20-25-ish, which is not that bad on its own. But right after 3 guys quoted the entire bloody post, felt like I was swiping forever on my phone.


it wasn't them not using a spoiler when quoting, it was the 3 or 4 word replies that killed me.










ok, i'm done now.


----------



## VeritronX

Soo.. dumb idea I'm sure someone has thought of already and tested.. two outlets from a res, into two different pumps, into a Y fitting then through the rest of the loop.. Better? Worse? Pointless? Did it blend?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Soo.. dumb idea I'm sure someone has thought of already and tested.. two outlets from a res, into two different pumps, into a Y fitting then through the rest of the loop.. Better? Worse? Pointless? Did it blend?


What problem would that solve?


----------



## looniam

^ having to buy a dual top?


----------



## charliebrown

anyone know whats the best paint to use to match chrome plated copper want to paint my ghost fitting caps but dont know what brand has the best color match

thanks in advance


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Soo.. dumb idea I'm sure someone has thought of already and tested.. two outlets from a res, into two different pumps, into a Y fitting then through the rest of the loop.. Better? Worse? Pointless? Did it blend?


that is parallel pumps I believe. It increases (doubles?) your flowrate, as opposed to increasing head pressure like serial setups with each pump after another.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> that is parallel pumps I believe. It increases (doubles?) your flowrate, as opposed to increasing head pressure like serial setups with each pump after another.


^THIS


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Soo.. dumb idea I'm sure someone has thought of already and tested.. two outlets from a res, into two different pumps, into a Y fitting then through the rest of the loop.. Better? Worse? Pointless? Did it blend?


That would be running the pumps in parallel, which has virtually no advantages, it doesn't double the flowrate, and because the dead one would just recirculate, it doesn't even offer any real redundancy, which would have been the likely reason behind that configuration in the first place.

If, on the other hand, you wanted to have two pumps to control flow for separate loops, but want only one rad, then it works fine with a little tweaking, ie: using a second res to recombine the two loops instead of a "Y" fitting.



Lower res feeds both pumps, CPU loop in foreground, GPU loop in background, with both loops retuning to the upper res, which goes to the rad, which comes back to the lower res

D.


----------



## RnRollie

What Diva said.. there is nothing to be gained from parallel pumps, except an increase in potential failure points.

Having two (separate) loops sharing a (common) res or sharing a rad, now there is some benefit to be found








Although, these are more typically found in "special" setups.. like cooling multiple machines in a server rack
Or when cooling multiple machines with the use of a (huge) TRUCK Radiator _... you should look than one up_


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quick question just for an extra option...

Is there any downside to running a drain from an extra port on a GPU block? With my placement of pump the bottom ports on the GPU block will be the lowest point in the loop, and it's not necessary for flow through that port... but will there be any problem with excess turbulence, etc?

I can't see any problem with it, but usually when I think there's no problem with something I find there is... once I've started drilling/cutting.









In case a picture helps... I'd like to use either a slot pass-through bung or drill a permanent one on the back of the case so I can fabricate a solid bottom panel to cover my cable mess... because the "drill holes for everything and try to fit your hands underneath to connect it all up" idea is definitely not gonna happen in this build.



I can't see turbulence being an issue as it would only be hit after flowing through the block and the valve shouldn't create much more than a plug anyway... but it's late and I'm a little stupid these days.


----------



## Ceadderman

So long as the GPU is the lowest point you will be fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Thanks, I was sure it'd be fine but I'm happy for the confirmation.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> that is parallel pumps I believe. It increases (doubles?) your flowrate, as opposed to increasing head pressure like serial setups with each pump after another.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> ^THIS


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That would be running the pumps in parallel, which has virtually no advantages, it doesn't double the flowrate, and because the dead one would just recirculate, it doesn't even offer any real redundancy, which would have been the likely reason behind that configuration in the first place.
> 
> If, on the other hand, you wanted to have two pumps to control flow for separate loops, but want only one rad, then it works fine with a little tweaking, ie: using a second res to recombine the two loops instead of a "Y" fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lower res feeds both pumps, CPU loop in foreground, GPU loop in background, with both loops retuning to the upper res, which goes to the rad, which comes back to the lower res
> 
> D.


Ah, thanks for all the info. Seems what I though might happen was point 2, but what you actually get is point 3. Good to know, thanks =)


----------



## Cannonkill

I've got question for you guys/girls, you never know, but I've seen some builds with shrouds around the rads that put the fans an inch above the rad and was wondering what this did to the cooling performance, like to me it seems that it would make the air hit more of the rad unlike how if they were on the rad the corners wouldn't have air flow across them. Is that the right idea?


----------



## Revan654

This is pretty much done, I might have to move the PSU from the bottom pedestal to main chamber. Since the PSU not work where I have it now. It might be due to cables are pitched from bottom traveling to the top.

Case: Case-Labs SM8 with Dual Pedestals
Cables: MDPC-X Sleeved (By Me), CableMod for Sata Power, Darkside for PWM cables, & Phobya for 6 channel cables.

Radiators(I know it's beyond overkill in cooling department for hardware I have. The rads were not being used, I put them to use in this rig):

Hardware Labs SR-2 480
Hardware Labs SR-2 240
Hardware Labs SR-2 120
Hardware Labs GTS 360
Hardware Labs GTS 360
XSPC RX 240 V3

Hardware Cooling:

i7 6700k
MSI GTX 1080

Pumps: Dual D5 with Speed Control (BitsPower & EK Pump tops)
Fittings: Bitspower & Barrow
Tubing: EK's ZMT for some of the pedestals (For the very sharp bends & Bitspower 16mm for the rest)


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> This is pretty much done, I might have to move the PSU from the bottom pedestal to main chamber. Since the PSU not work where I have it now. It might be due to cables are pitched from bottom traveling to the top.
> 
> Case: Case-Labs SM8 with Dual Pedestals
> Cables: MDPC-X Sleeved (By Me), CableMod for Sata Power, Darkside for PWM cables, & Phobya for 6 channel cables.
> 
> Radiators(I know it's beyond overkill in cooling department for hardware I have. The rads were not being used, I put them to use in this rig):
> 
> Hardware Labs SR-2 480
> Hardware Labs SR-2 240
> Hardware Labs SR-2 120
> Hardware Labs GTS 360
> Hardware Labs GTS 360
> XSPC RX 240 V3
> 
> Hardware Cooling:
> 
> i7 6700k
> MSI GTX 1080
> 
> Pumps: Dual D5 with Speed Control (BitsPower & EK Pump tops)
> Fittings: Bitspower & Barrow
> Tubing: EK's ZMT for some of the pedestals (For the very sharp bends & Bitspower 16mm for the rest)


Nice use of old parts. Have you tested water temp delta T?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Nice use of old parts. Have you tested water temp delta T?


Not yet, Mayhems Blitz Part 2 is currently running through the system. Once I add the Coolant I will check the temps.


----------



## emsj86

Wait the psu is not working in the bottom? I'd check the cables first.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Finally finished.




Spoiler: Few more pics!


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cannonkill*
> 
> I've got question for you guys/girls, you never know, but I've seen some builds with shrouds around the rads that put the fans an inch above the rad and was wondering what this did to the cooling performance, like to me it seems that it would make the air hit more of the rad unlike how if they were on the rad the corners wouldn't have air flow across them. Is that the right idea?


Yea, basically the airspace lets the air get more evenly spread across the radiator. I don't know that it does anything dramatic, but it can't hurt!


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cannonkill*
> 
> I've got question for you guys/girls, you never know, but I've seen some builds with shrouds around the rads that put the fans an inch above the rad and was wondering what this did to the cooling performance, like to me it seems that it would make the air hit more of the rad unlike how if they were on the rad the corners wouldn't have air flow across them. Is that the right idea?
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, basically the airspace lets the air get more evenly spread across the radiator. I don't know that it does anything dramatic, but it can't hurt!
Click to expand...

Using shrouds, there is less "hub/motor shadow" so more of the radiator is used.

Two benefits:
1. (somewhat) better radiator/cooling performance
2. (substantial) less fan noise

Shrouds have fallen off the radar a bit, i wonder why... probably because of too many people going _"huh physics! why bother with physics? physics is education and education is racist"_

I see so many people on the endless search for _"the ideal fan for performance/silence"_... while the only thing they have to do get a one inch shroud, a rubber/norprene gasket and good static pressure fans to bump up the performance and lower the Decibels


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I have an old rad in my closet that has the gap built in. No need for the shroud. I can not remember who it's from. It's really old and something other than G1/4 threads.


----------



## Trestles126

Got my stainless made the final tube cuts and filled gpu loop to leak test so far so good.


----------



## Sazexa

Some updates on the O11; glass tubing should be coming in this week. As well as fittings and radiator. Going to see how well I can get this glass tubing to bend, as well as see what happens when I try to frost it. Still need to figure out where I want to mount my pump, if I want a DDC or D5, and what reservoir to choose from. Since I'm doing actual glass tubing, I'm leaning towards something like the EK-RES X4 since it's also actual glass as well.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Some updates on the O11; glass tubing should be coming in this week. As well as fittings and radiator. Going to see how well I can get this glass tubing to bend, as well as see what happens when I try to frost it. Still need to figure out where I want to mount my pump, if I want a DDC or D5, and what reservoir to choose from. Since I'm doing actual glass tubing, I'm leaning towards something like the EK-RES X4 since it's also actual glass as well.


That matching black/grey/silver colour scheme looks awesome!


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Some updates on the O11; glass tubing should be coming in this week. As well as fittings and radiator. Going to see how well I can get this glass tubing to bend, as well as see what happens when I try to frost it. Still need to figure out where I want to mount my pump, if I want a DDC or D5, and what reservoir to choose from. Since I'm doing actual glass tubing, I'm leaning towards something like the EK-RES X4 since it's also actual glass as well.


Wow very nice looking, have a build log? Also what spacing is that EVGA SLI bridge. I just bought one and have same board m.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cannonkill*
> 
> I've got question for you guys/girls, you never know, but I've seen some builds with shrouds around the rads that put the fans an inch above the rad and was wondering what this did to the cooling performance, like to me it seems that it would make the air hit more of the rad unlike how if they were on the rad the corners wouldn't have air flow across them. Is that the right idea?


Its called shrouding, it lessens the impact of dead spots from things like the motor hub.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

In another life, I will build custom rigs with belt-driven fans to eliminate motor dead spots.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Wow very nice looking, have a build log? Also what spacing is that EVGA SLI bridge. I just bought one and have same board m.


I think 80mm is the spacing between the two. It's basically just a three-day bridge


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Finally finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Few more pics!




good stuff.









oh yeah the rig looks fabulosos too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Some updates on the O11; glass tubing should be coming in this week. As well as fittings and radiator. Going to see how well I can get this glass tubing to bend, as well as see what happens when I try to frost it. Still need to figure out where I want to mount my pump, if I want a DDC or D5, and what reservoir to choose from. Since I'm doing actual glass tubing, I'm leaning towards something like the EK-RES X4 since it's also actual glass as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Im doing a glass tubed rig for the EK CEO as we speak.

CF arrives tomorrow for my 301

Also,forget bending the glass....at least not without lab glass facilities


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> In another life, I will build custom rigs with belt-driven fans to eliminate motor dead spots.


There was an attempt at something similar years ago via tmd fans, but they didn't take off, get popular, let alone even reach "decent gimmick" status due to not really being all that great. Got rid of the hub issue though, since the motor wasn't in the middle.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im doing a glass tubed rig for the EK CEO as we speak.
> 
> CF arrives tomorrow for my 301
> 
> Also,forget bending the glass....at least not without lab glass facilities


I've watched a few videos on it and it seems relatively straight forward. I have a torch I can use for heating. I was going to try and piece and if it doesn't work, well, fittings it is.


----------



## hidethecookies

I bought this from eBay for 50 bucks never seen one before.Turns out it's from a 60k dollar watercooled Christie projector. It's all machined aluminum.


----------



## RnRollie

Christie ... are those the ones that used to make projectors for airlines in-flight movies back when the Constellation was still fairly new?


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Christie ... are those the ones that used to make projectors for airlines in-flight movies back when the Constellation was still fairly new?


not sure it just had a sticker that said Christie approved coolant only. I just researched a little and led me to a projector. It's a WU20k-j


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Some updates on the O11; glass tubing should be coming in this week. As well as fittings and radiator. Going to see how well I can get this glass tubing to bend, as well as see what happens when I try to frost it. Still need to figure out where I want to mount my pump, if I want a DDC or D5, and what reservoir to choose from. Since I'm doing actual glass tubing, I'm leaning towards something like the EK-RES X4 since it's also actual glass as well.


Also check out WaterCool Heatkiller tube, It's a Glass res too (Everything else is aluminum).


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Christie ... are those the ones that used to make projectors for airlines in-flight movies back when the Constellation was still fairly new?


Probably... they do projectors for movie theaters and home theaters (if you're uber-rich). Also for big churches, concert halls, sports centers, etc.

If it throws a loooong way and you can still see the details... it's probably a Christie... they make this tasty little number...

CHRISTIE 4K Projector (45K lumens)

Of course, unless your house is 30,000 sq feet you probably don't have a room large enough that it wouldn't blind you the moment you turned it on.

You could buy my Panasonic 1080p projector and get a Porsche 911 Turbo with the change.


----------



## nyk20z3




----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Probably... they do projectors for movie theaters and home theaters (if you're uber-rich). Also for big churches, concert halls, sports centers, etc.
> 
> If it throws a loooong way and you can still see the details... it's probably a Christie... they make this tasty little number...
> 
> CHRISTIE 4K Projector (45K lumens)
> 
> Of course, unless your house is 30,000 sq feet you probably don't have a room large enough that it wouldn't blind you the moment you turned it on.
> 
> You could buy my Panasonic 1080p projector and get a Porsche 911 Turbo with the change.


I just think it's awesome I got a custom machined ddc reservoir for a 60k+ piece of hardware. I bet Koolance charged them $500+ just for that module alone. Then they also supplied the quick disconnects, regular fittings, and waterblocks. I'm thinking how I can build my rig to showcase this beast. I just opened it up and found an inline flow meter. OK I should have looked a little closer there is a pinout diagram that shows the pump, flow meter, and priming pump.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

That looks friggin sweet. Makes consumer-grade stuff look like Fisher-Price. Does it have a built-in motor? I'm sure Koolance charged well over $500.


----------



## charliebrown

i just got my chrome plated copper 1/2 od from home depot today looks great and it bends with no stress marks or cracks so if anyone want to try $6 for 20in its worth it to me


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Tube for the In Win301 build.....no log but plenty of pics incoming,small chassis with parallel rads and parallel blocks....


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tube for the In Win301 build.....no log but plenty of pics incoming,small chassis with parallel rads and parallel blocks....


Where did you get your glossy stuff from? My glossy carbon fiber seems too small. I can pull it right out of a compression EK-HDC fitting.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Where did you get your glossy stuff from? My glossy carbon fiber seems too small. I can pull it right out of a compression EK-HDC fitting.


http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/

Not eBay.....


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/
> 
> Not eBay.....


Mine weren't from eBay either. But definitely won't work as needed.

Carbon Fiber might an an option once again. Thanks B.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> That looks friggin sweet. Makes consumer-grade stuff look like Fisher-Price. Does it have a built-in motor? I'm sure Koolance charged well over $500.


It has a 18w DDC 3 by Koolance.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> That looks friggin sweet. Makes consumer-grade stuff look like Fisher-Price. Does it have a built-in motor? I'm sure Koolance charged well over $500.


I like Fisher Price.









Not sure I would introduce an aluminum component to a custom loop. No matter how cool it is.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> i just got my chrome plated copper 1/2 od from home depot today looks great and it bends with no stress marks or cracks so if anyone want to try $6 for 20in its worth it to me


Mind posting some pictures and what you used to bend it. I saw people use similar products before but without any luck bending. It would be nice to see it done


----------



## charliebrown

I'll post some later


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like Fisher Price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I would introduce an aluminum component to a custom loop. No matter how cool it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just using it for a test bench. So no chance of running long term without a teardown. I'm also going to invest in some good coolant with anticorrosive. I've had a few Corsair hydro aio's that lasted over 5yrs and when torn down no corrosion on the copper cold plate. That's with a aluminum radiator. I know the subject has been beaten to death but with proper techniques and preventive maintenance it's possible. It also looks to be so.e coating on the aluminum maybe anodized.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/
> 
> Not eBay.....


So do you need a special way to cut these? Also, any safety precaution related?

I'm assuming the dust when you cut these is a safety hazard.


----------



## khemist

I've got some of that CF tube coming to try out and also will be switching from my Caselabs BH7 in the near future to one of these.












Jonsbo RM4 in Silver, should have it in the next week.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> So do you need a special way to cut these? Also, any safety precaution related?
> 
> I'm assuming the dust when you cut these is a safety hazard.


haven't watched it, but it was linked on the product page B-neg posted
http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/composites-tutorials/how-to-cut-and-shape-carbon-fibre


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I've got some of that CF tube coming to try out and also will be switching from my Caselabs BH7 in the near future to one of these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jonsbo RM4 in Silver, should have it in the next week.


Why? that thing is tiny compared to your CLabs.
















Looks nice though, but rather small for eATX platform.









~Ceadder


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/
> 
> Not eBay.....


is this bendable


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> is this bendable


Highly doubt it. Carbon fiber isnt malleable once its set.

Edit: ok, I stand corrected. There's carbon fiber that can flex and bendable.


----------



## khemist

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why? that thing is tiny compared to your CLabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks nice though, but rather small for eATX platform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Impulse buy!, i'll see how it looks when i get it.


----------



## Kimir

Hmm, nice looking case, interested on how it will look/fit an eatx board in there and how much rad space as well.
I'm still looking for a case to put my R4BE+ 980KPE


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I've got some of that CF tube coming to try out and also will be switching from my Caselabs BH7 in the near future to one of these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jonsbo RM4 in Silver, should have it in the next week.


Don't guess you can get these in the US? Also can you fit a 360 up top?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Highly doubt it. Carbon fiber isnt malleable once its set.
> 
> Edit: ok, I stand corrected. There's carbon fiber that can flex and bendable.


My wallet is made out of bendable CF.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Don't guess you can get these in the US? Also can you fit a 360 up top?


Not sure about the U.S., no rads in the top, it's solid.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Not sure about the U.S., no rads in the top, it's solid.










It was almost the perfect case. I was thinking i'd be able to fit a 360 up top, on bottom and maybe squeeze a 240 or 120 somewhere else.


----------



## charliebrown

Anyone have pics of the cf tubes put in a system yet


----------



## paskowitz

Plasticizer?



I got it all filtered out but that seems like a fair amount. I've had my EKoolant for about 6-8mon. Should I change it?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Plasticizer?
> 
> 
> 
> I got it all filtered out but that seems like a fair amount. I've had my EKoolant for about 6-8mon. Should I change it?


While i'm just going on personal experience i ran Mayhems X1 from the time "There Will Be Blood" was complete till just a couple of months ago. So well over two years. I've never filtered anything though. I think residue is going to be common among any loop less precautions were taken initially before assembling and filling. Personally i'd inspect around the blocks. If they seem gtg i'd run it a while longer.


----------



## charliebrown

Anyone know where I can get a 390x block ek has them but with tax it's $180 for a waterblock ppcs is out


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was almost the perfect case. I was thinking i'd be able to fit a 360 up top, on bottom and maybe squeeze a 240 or 120 somewhere else.


From the manufacturer page, you can fit a 360 on the bottom (between lower chamber and motherboard) and a 240 up front.
There is no info on available reseller in the U.S. (http://jonsbo.com/en/buy.html)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Glass tubed build for the EK CEO,I finished this today.



No modding but still bloody awesome.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Glass tubed build for the EK CEO,I finished this today.
> 
> 
> 
> No modding but still bloody awesome.


Gahhhh, you must build me a glass loop, B Neg!!


----------



## paskowitz

Ooo... I like 3 port terminals on the GPU block. That's pretty unique and a great way to have the EK logo nice and visible.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Gahhhh, you must build me a glass loop, B Neg!!


When I come to the US next,we can meet up...


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Glass tubed build for the EK CEO,I finished this today.
> 
> 
> 
> No modding but still bloody awesome.


I was trying to spot something non-EK haha! Good work there as always, B!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When I come to the US next,we can meet up...


Sounds like an awesome plan!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> I was trying to spot something non-EK haha! Good work there as always, B!


Its either EK or In Win. Sechs team!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Sounds like an awesome plan!


Get Derick involved and we can have a filthy 3 way. Perhaps Mamma Wolfsbora can come too?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love the look of glass loops, similar to the cleanliness of a copper loop


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> My wallet is made out of bendable CF.


Well, CF is totally dependent on the resin used to set it, the weave itself isn't rigid. It's normally rigid set after use, and I'd wager that if you fully opened your wallet the spine would fail- it's a 'living hinge'.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> I bought this from eBay for 50 bucks never seen one before.Turns out it's from a 60k dollar watercooled Christie projector. It's all machined aluminum.


I would like to say that the cooling system in the christie's are flat out nuts. The company I work for has one in their board room (only thing that pushed enough lumens to work the rear projection setup). The first time we popped it open and saw the cooling setup I was shocked it looked like a pc watercooling loop only to find low and behold it practically is. Darn thing is snake bit though as we have practically replaced every part in the card thing in less than three months.


----------



## khemist

The 12/10 Carbon fibre tube seems to fit Nanoxia fittings well.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Classy build B Neg!


----------



## dwolvin

Wow, really nice! Wonder what that would look like with monsoon hardline blacks...


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Well, CF is totally dependent on the resin used to set it, the weave itself isn't rigid. It's normally rigid set after use, and I'd wager that if you fully opened your wallet the spine would fail- it's a 'living hinge'.


It's actually hard (not autoclave hard mind you, more like sheet metal) on the surface and bendable on the hinge. Hinge can go 180. You can check out the company on YouTube.

Like you said, it all depends on the resin and curing process.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Someone said a new build in a In Win case?











Just got this. Side by side with Chessboard (SMA8). Getting ready for Ryzen-Vega with a In Win 303 which of course will be modded









Most likely this will be the build name:

ゼン
Zen


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 12/10 Carbon fibre tube seems to fit Nanoxia fittings well.


Now that looks classy as hell !!

Random question, has anyone used the new Coolermaster Master fans ? (Static P.) ... ... Also, which Res (no bay res, and no custom) looks the best ?


----------



## RaiderUK

Here's my build

Before



Mid Build








End Result









Specs

http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6671446

This was my third water cooling build in all, however the first two were on the same hardware so im not sure that counts. Anyway, this was new hardware and new waterloop. I still have some small things I want to introduce, like braided cables and a flow monitor, but there is plenty of time for that.

Overall, im really pleased with how this turned out, however dont try and bend 304 stainless steel without the correct tools, you will end up buying fittings!

Enjoy


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Parallel rads and parallel blocks in the new In Win 301.

Also Carbon fiber tube....

I have to drop the pump down,fit the heatsink to the DDC and swap the placeholder board out for the X99m WS....keeping the 1080 tho.


----------



## andre02

In theory will a 480mm radiator perform better than a 360+ a 240mm , same thickness, everything else the same..?


----------



## looniam

what theory?

the one that doesn't account for total rad space?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> In theory will a 480mm radiator perform better than a 360+ a 240mm , same thickness, everything else the same..?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> what theory?
> 
> the one that doesn't account for total rad space?


Apparently, the theory realm where physics doesn't exist


----------



## looniam

well, maybe i did come off as harsh though . .

i still don't know half of what i think i do, which is little to nothing.


----------



## ruffhi

Well ... maybe the 360 and 240 don't have any fans. Then a 480 with fans will certainly out cool them.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Glass tubed build for the EK CEO,I finished this today.
> 
> 
> 
> No modding but still bloody awesome.


Imagine how much cooler it would look with a cover for that pump body!

Looks great as usual B Neg but please please talk them into bringing back the metal pump covers in some way.


----------



## phillyd

So it's looking like Ryzen chips are being limited in overclocking by heat. Do you all have any recommendations for improving cooling in an already beefy loop? I'd be looking at a D5 pump, a Monsta 240 + an XT45 360 rad with push/pull on at least the Monsta with some high static pressure fans like the Corsair SP120's. I'll be cooling a single GPU (high-end vega, probably) and nothing else in the loop. I haven't chosen a CPU block. I was looking to put it in a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX but that case is limited by airflow so it's been ruled out pretty quickly. I'll likely get a case cut out for the task and set it up with near-optimal airflow. I have Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut I will use with the build.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So it's looking like Ryzen chips are being limited in overclocking by heat. Do you all have any recommendations for improving cooling in an already beefy loop? I'd be looking at a D5 pump, a Monsta 240 + an XT45 360 rad with push/pull on at least the Monsta with some high static pressure fans like the Corsair SP120's. I'll be cooling a single GPU (high-end vega, probably) and nothing else in the loop. I haven't chosen a CPU block. I was looking to put it in a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX but that case is limited by airflow so it's been ruled out pretty quickly. I'll likely get a case cut out for the task and set it up with near-optimal airflow. I have Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut I will use with the build.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/17070#post_25876196


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/17070#post_25876196


I appreciate the info, but I'm not really interested in trying to make the Evolv ATX work. I don't want to scrape by with the cooling, I want to be completely capable of cooling my PC effectively without any workarounds. I'm more interested in the other components.

However, if you do find a way to do this reasonably priced, looking good, and with a pretty big increase in cooling performance, I'll be interested for sure.


----------



## andre02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Apparently, the theory realm where physics doesn't exist


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> well, maybe i did come off as harsh though . .
> 
> i still don't know half of what i think i do, which is little to nothing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Well ... maybe the 360 and 240 don't have any fans. Then a 480 with fans will certainly out cool them.


Well, the 480mm radiator is a big chunk of metal with a cooling circuit in it, don't know much about what is inside, i'm imagining some channels that the water goes through ... as oposed to the other two who are two separate radiators and maybe they don't scale perfectly as to add 360 to 240 = 5x120mm of cooling capacity (as if it was one radiator). Because i heard a couple of times people saying that adding a 240mm to their loop for example didn't change the temperatures, and i am imagining that using a 480mm instead of a 360mm would indeed lower the temps. At least that's how i imagined it, that they don't scale as well as one big radiator... But, you can tell me if i am wrong.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I appreciate the info, but I'm not really interested in trying to make the Evolv ATX work. I don't want to scrape by with the cooling, I want to be completely capable of cooling my PC effectively without any workarounds. I'm more interested in the other components.
> 
> However, if you do find a way to do this reasonably priced, looking good, and with a pretty big increase in cooling performance, I'll be interested for sure.


You can make a setup similar to what I have in my sig, but you would need to mod your case.

Big watercooling builds like mine yield better temps than air or all-in-one watercooling setups, but that doesn't mean my clockspeeds will be higher. If you want max clock speed, buy several processors and keep the one with the best overclocks. My 7700k can run at 5.1ghz, but there are guys with air coolers who can run 5.2ghz on air because their CPU silicon quality is higher.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> You can make a setup similar to what I have in my sig, but you would need to mod your case.
> 
> Big watercooling builds like mine yield better temps than air or all-in-one watercooling setups, but that doesn't mean my clockspeeds will be higher. If you want max clock speed, buy several processors and keep the one with the best overclocks. My 7700k can run at 5.1ghz, but there are guys with air coolers who can run 5.2ghz on air because their CPU silicon quality is higher.


Ryzen is still pretty unknown with overclocking, but people are having temperature issues on anything but custom water just going for 4GHz or so. While Ryzen is very different than previous AMD CPU's, they have tended to be more stable with higher clocks at the same voltages when put on better cooling in the past. I'm thinking the bridge between 4GHzish max for most setups and 4.5GHz might just be cooling. Those chips are beasts and they create a lot of heat.

I may use the Silicon Lottery on here to get a better chip, but I don't really have a lot of disposable income to just take the loss on 2 or so chips. I have hope that Ryzen will be "figured out" and better clocks will be had out of most chips.

I don't think a mod like yours would be necessary. If I go with the Evolv ATX, I'll probably get the front and top panel cut to add airflow. I should be more than fine with 1 GPU and 1 CPU on the loop with a 240x120x86mm radiator in p/p and a 360x120x45mm in push. I'm 95% sure I can pull that off with no modding too.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Ryzen is still pretty unknown with overclocking, but people are having temperature issues on anything but custom water just going for 4GHz or so. While Ryzen is very different than previous AMD CPU's, they have tended to be more stable with higher clocks at the same voltages when put on better cooling in the past. I'm thinking the bridge between 4GHzish max for most setups and 4.5GHz might just be cooling. Those chips are beasts and they create a lot of heat.
> 
> I may use the Silicon Lottery on here to get a better chip, but I don't really have a lot of disposable income to just take the loss on 2 or so chips. I have hope that Ryzen will be "figured out" and better clocks will be had out of most chips.
> 
> I don't think a mod like yours would be necessary. If I go with the Evolv ATX, I'll probably get the front and top panel cut to add airflow. I should be more than fine with 1 GPU and 1 CPU on the loop with a 240x120x86mm radiator in p/p and a 360x120x45mm in push. I'm 95% sure I can pull that off with no modding too.


-If you spend a lot of money on a watercooling setup because you expect a clockspeed increase, you may end up disappointed. I jumped into watercooling a few months ago because I wanted the challenge and I have a fixation for lots of moving parts. It turns out that I love watercooling.

-If you don't have money to burn, keep in mind, you can return processors, no questions asked, within 14 days at most retailers (obviously check on this first). If you have a lot of money to burn, go with Silicon Lottery.

-People with the Evolv ATX have good luck with Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS. I'd suggest 360 front, 280 top, and a 140mm rear fan. No modding.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> ]
> 
> -If you spend a lot of money on a watercooling setup because you expect a clockspeed increase, you may end up disappointed. I jumped into watercooling a few months ago because I wanted the challenge and I have a fixation for lots of moving parts. It turns out that I love watercooling.
> 
> -If you don't have money to burn, keep in mind, you can return processors, no questions asked, within 14 days at most retailers (obviously check on this first). If you have a lot of money to burn, go with Silicon Lottery.
> 
> -People with the Evolv ATX have good luck with Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS. I'd suggest 360 front, 280 top, and a 140mm rear fan. No modding.


I've been water cooling for several years. I understand the benefits and that it isn't really a price-friendly hobby. However, I already have virtually all of the hardware from a previous build.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Someone said a new build in a In Win case?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got this. Side by side with Chessboard (SMA8). Getting ready for Ryzen-Vega with a In Win 303 which of course will be modded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most likely this will be the build name:
> 
> ゼン
> Zen


Nice, post the build log link when it's up.

That InWin case was in my list of case to pick for my new "old" build, but no enough rad space for my taste, went ahead and purchased the Jonsbo RM4 last night.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Well, the 480mm radiator is a big chunk of metal with a cooling circuit in it, don't know much about what is inside, i'm imagining some channels that the water goes through ... as oposed to the other two who are two separate radiators and maybe they don't scale perfectly as to add 360 to 240 = 5x120mm of cooling capacity (as if it was one radiator). Because i heard a couple of times people saying that adding a 240mm to their loop for example didn't change the temperatures, and i am imagining that using a 480mm instead of a 360mm would indeed lower the temps. At least that's how i imagined it, that they don't scale as well as one big radiator... But, you can tell me if i am wrong.


Conventional wisdom and physics dictate that more radiator surface area means more cooling. It is also to be noted at that thickness of the radiator has little effect on the cooling as well. square MM of space is what you are looking for.

Inside a radiator are channels that fins attach to. The water runs through these channels and dissipates heat to the fins which is then carried away by air (fans). Hence why surface area is the most important factor. It takes less time and power to cool more surface area to an acceptable temp than less.


----------



## emsj86

What is the tools you used to cut the glass tubing ?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What is the tools you used to cut the glass tubing ?


a glass cutter probably









although, a good metal pipe cutter will also work if done slowly


----------



## DarthBaggins

@b negative Does LUMO know you're using the board out of it, lol

Also would love to get my hands on one of those MiPS IceForce blocks. . .


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parallel rads and parallel blocks in the new In Win 301.
> 
> Also Carbon fiber tube....
> 
> I have to drop the pump down,fit the heatsink to the DDC and swap the placeholder board out for the X99m WS....keeping the 1080 tho.


That CPU block always makes me think of the cylon mother ship ...


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Well, the 480mm radiator is a big chunk of metal with a cooling circuit in it, don't know much about what is inside, i'm imagining some channels that the water goes through ... as oposed to the other two who are two separate radiators and maybe they don't scale perfectly as to add 360 to 240 = 5x120mm of cooling capacity (as if it was one radiator). Because i heard a couple of times people saying that adding a 240mm to their loop for example didn't change the temperatures, and i am imagining that using a 480mm instead of a 360mm would indeed lower the temps. At least that's how i imagined it, that they don't scale as well as one big radiator... But, you can tell me if i am wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Conventional wisdom and physics dictate that more radiator surface area means more cooling. *It is also to be noted at that thickness of the radiator has little effect on the cooling as well.* square MM of space is what you are looking for.
> 
> Inside a radiator are channels that fins attach to. The water runs through these channels and dissipates heat to the fins which is then carried away by air (fans). Hence why surface area is the most important factor. It takes less time and power to cool more surface area to an acceptable temp than less.
Click to expand...

overall yes, but i don't believe *that* is correct:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/



not being familiar with all the rads listed but i do know the EK's XE is 60mm, the PE is 40mm and the SE is 25mm of all the same "product line" (the XTX which is 65mm is older and may not have "cooling optimizations" that newer product have). but overall you can see the thicker the rad the much better cooling _for that flow rate and fan speed._

so it does lead to show that not just "face space" but also the amount of liquid being cooled can be a factor. and as there is a difference with the amount of fins connected to the channels in the rad to help remove the heat of the coolant (which i didn't detail) there is also the speed of the coolant, or more better, _the amount of turbulence of the liquid/coolant_ that better helps w/heat transfer. HERE an old article discussing heat transfer w/turbulence; though it focuses on the heat transfer between block and coolant (sucking heat from) the exact opposite would be true for heat transfer dispersing the heat (blowing heat to . .air) it's all still _heat exchange_.

i didn't give a somewhat long post (for me) to correct anyone because of an ego demand (this time







) but to hopefully help explain why someone could see a claim of adding another smaller rad had no effect when it should have. to spitball without knowing any details and what not; if they either lowered their fan speed thinking more rad space would "magically" still lower the temps OR even though rads have low restriction compared to gpu/cpu blocks, _there may have been a lower flow rate of coolant that would have had a less than desirable effect._

yep! all that just for that last bit









however, overall more rad space whether single or additional = better cooling given the same fan speed and flow rate.









though i am not sure if a 240+120=a single 360.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Thanks. I thought it was within a few percent which would be marginal. Apparently it is a little greater than I thought


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What is the tools you used to cut the glass tubing ?


Theirs a few tools out their that can cut.

The super cheap way:

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Actopus-Scientific-Griffin-Cutter-Cutting/dp/B01KV8V90A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488555500&sr=8-3&

Chain Squeeze & Pop (Method):

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Rex-79014-Glass-Tube-Cutter/dp/B008R52NV4/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1488555565&sr=8-30&k

or

Dermel with Diamond cutting Wheel for Glass


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Thanks. I thought it was within a few percent which would be marginal. Apparently it is a little greater than I thought


Also.... brute surface or thickness is not the whole story.... FPI plays a role

a 360 -60 @18 FPI will perform better as a 360 -60 @11 FPI or a 360 -60 @7 FPI but "worse" as a 360 -60 @30FPI
Providing the fans are good enough to overcome the 30FPI (we're starting to look at Delta's here)

So, if you have a 360 and a 240 _(both 60 thick and 18 FPI)_ and you add another 120 -30 thick, 7FPI , you are *not* gonna see a drastic improvement in temps.
However, add a 120 -60 thick, 30FPI with a Delta fan , and you WILL see a drastic improvement in temps.

Note however... if your 360+240 were already providing ample coverage for your heat envelope (loop temps do not exceed ambient +10°C) , then adding another 120 is not gonna change much, if anything.
In fact you would have to DOUBLE your total rad surface to see a markable improvement (about half)... And if you would like to half your delta again, you would have to double rads again. Work out for yourself how much rad space is needed to reach a Delta of 1°C over Ambient









Only when you do NOT have enough raddage to cover your heat output will adding Rads help lowering temps. There IS a point of diminishing returns.

And, actually, the consensus is that if you can keep your loop at 10 to 15°C Delta over Ambient , then you've already won, you're golden.

NOTE: Remember that even with Watercooling, you are still cooling with AIR. The lowest your temps can go is Ambient room temp.
Remember, THIS doesnt work https://youtu.be/VUbpb23yTK8


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What is the tools you used to cut the glass tubing ?


.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Theirs a few tools out their that can cut.
> 
> The super cheap way:
> 
> Link: https://www.amazon.com/Actopus-Scientific-Griffin-Cutter-Cutting/dp/B01KV8V90A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488555500&sr=8-3&
> 
> Chain Squeeze & Pop (Method):
> 
> Link: https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Rex-79014-Glass-Tube-Cutter/dp/B008R52NV4/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1488555565&sr=8-30&k
> 
> or
> 
> Dremel with Diamond cutting Wheel for Glass


Best results by far are achieved (with home hobby tools) using a wet diamond cutting wheel and rotary tool such as a Dremel.

I tried the cheapo cutters, and a quite expensive hand tool for cutting glass/ceramic tube before setting up a jig for the Dremel.

Remember to take adequate precaution against the silicate dust and rinse the cut pieces off before they dry.


----------



## Sazexa

Is there any mount for pumps to mount them on a 2.5" drive location?


----------



## Ceadderman

^So far as I know, no.









@fast_fate... That would make an excellent hardline tubing cutter as well. +Rep for the idea!









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^So far as I know, no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @fast_fate... That would make an excellent hardline tubing cutter as well. +Rep for the idea!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


with the right blade it does









Just have to do a few test cuts to get the RPM right.

*EDIT:* I've been updating the Water Cooling Test Thread over the last few days with a back-log of data.
*The Index* is currently up to date with all the latest additions.
Always looking for community testing data that is can be added to the database provided the data acquired from decent test gear and good testing methods have been used.
Fan RPM/Voltage/PWM curves are easy to test and plot, so join in and give back to the community


----------



## MattBaneLM

regrettably had to hand this over to a client..


----------



## Ceadderman

I can see why.









~Ceadder


----------



## MattBaneLM

Thanks dude.... two gtx 1080 Galax HOF cards with Bitspower waterblocks. trident z B-Die 3733 (running at 3600 only atm), z170 sabertooth plus EK monoblock (bugger to fit), and a sweet 6700k chip that does 4.7/4.5 cache at 1.350v and 4.8's at under 1.420v non-delidded (needs a delid and smashing to 5.0). m.2 sata, really liked the d5 Revo pump btw . recommend it....


----------



## diablo2allday

Here is my wc build. Inwin 909 6700k 980ti etc etc etc


----------



## IT Diva

If anyone ever asks if you can squeeze a 360 rad into a little S3 . . . . .

Tell 'em, "Diva Did"









Turned out to be a much more massive crap ton of work than I imagined at the outset . . .

But a little over 12 hours later, it's now ready for paint touchup on all the freshly cut metal.

Darlene


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If anyone ever asks if you can squeeze a 360 rad into a little S3 . . . . .
> 
> Tell 'em, "Diva Did"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out to be a much more massive crap ton of work than I imagined at the outset . . .
> 
> But a little over 12 hours later, it's now ready for paint touchup on all the freshly cut metal.
> 
> Darlene


Go all out and add another 360 on the other side ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Can't. PSU is in the way. Pretty sure can't mount one vertically horizontal in the top either. Maybe horizontally in the top?









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If anyone ever asks if you can squeeze a 360 rad into a little S3 . . . . .
> 
> Tell 'em, "Diva Did"...*nearly*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out to be a much more massive crap ton of work than I imagined at the outset . . .
> 
> But a little over 12 hours later, it's now ready for paint touchup on all the freshly cut metal.
> 
> Darlene


























Good job,now get the vented sides and you are good. I like it,you will finish this one tho right?


----------



## IT Diva

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If anyone ever asks if you can squeeze a 360 rad into a little S3 . . . . .
> 
> Tell 'em, "Diva Did"...*nearly*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out to be a much more massive crap ton of work than I imagined at the outset . . .
> 
> But a little over 12 hours later, it's now ready for paint touchup on all the freshly cut metal.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good job, now get the vented sides and you are good. I like it, you will finish this one though right?
Click to expand...

Got you covered on the vented side panel with a mod to an XL window side panel so the window stays the same aspect ratio as the other side and works with the bay window in front:



I get tired of writing about stuff before I get tired of working on it, . . . . .

But it's true, once all the really big engineering, design, & fabrication challenges are overcome, I'd often rather chase another big challenge than do the pedestrian work.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnBhJoiNj

Got the Alphacool VPP755 pump installed at last, it's really quiet, loving it.


----------



## AreTheGod

Hey guys!
This is my first bend done with the right insert, do you think it looks any good?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys!
> This is my first bend done with the right insert, do you think it looks any good?


It looks good to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Carbon fiber tubed fully parallel system inside a cute In Win 301.
Nothing modded but I do need to swap that blue plug out.....and the green coolant from the fittings I forgot to clean out.....

Flowrate is mental,cooling is great...I do need to figure out a better anti cyclone tho.


----------



## khemist

Very tidy!.


----------



## MattBaneLM

nice, they do vortex easily those pumps


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It looks good to me.


Ty for giving me your opinion








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Carbon fiber tubed fully parallel system inside a cute In Win 301.
> Nothing modded but I do need to swap that blue plug out.....and the green coolant from the fittings I forgot to clean out.....
> 
> Flowrate is mental,cooling is great...I do need to figure out a better anti cyclone tho.


Looks really clean!


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Carbon fiber tubed fully parallel system inside a cute In Win 301.
> Nothing modded but I do need to swap that blue plug out.....and the green coolant from the fittings I forgot to clean out.....
> 
> Flowrate is mental,cooling is great...I do need to figure out a better anti cyclone tho.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


everything looks great but that blue VGA power plug just looks out of place compared to the rest of the perfectly matched build.


----------



## Blackops_2

Yeah i need a better camera..


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys!
> This is my first bend done with the right insert, do you think it looks any good?


Looks good.
I'm doing frosted rigid tubing also, but glass.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Carbon fiber tubed fully parallel system inside a cute In Win 301.
> *snip*


Really liking the 301 too, In Win is killing it with their 300-series.

Anything you can share on your experience with the cable management and the airflow to the front fans(seems like it might be a bit of an issue with the cables in front of the side vent?).


----------



## Deeptek

Anyone heard of the release date for the InWin301?


----------



## MattBaneLM

no but they have their own thread here on OCN where you could ask them


----------



## Yukss

waiting for some color dye


----------



## MURDoctrine

So just had a 2nd D5 go bad on me in about a year. Looking to replace it. It was a swiftech d5 variable speed control model. What are some good d5's on the market at the moment.

*edit* I know they are all rebrands of the same thing just curious if anyones mileage has varied any with say the XSPC Vario's or Aquacomputer varios compared to the Swiftechs.


----------



## MattBaneLM

EK D5 Revo... easy to work wit. they kept the base/pump as small as possible. and just quality


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Looks good.
> I'm doing frosted rigid tubing also, but glass.


Nice!
By the way, mine is from the new Alphacool tubing, but i don't think I saw glass option? May I ask where you got it?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Nice!
> By the way, mine is from the new Alphacool tubing, but i don't think I saw glass option? May I ask where you got it?


Alphacool and Mayhems make some borosilicate glass. I got mine off Performance-PCs.com. Using Mayhem's 16mm OD glass. Might switch to 12 if the bend radius is too large


----------



## Jsunn

My first attempt at water-cooling.
My 1080Ti is pre-ordered and I hope to have it soon.










Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## fisher6

Does anybody know what the best course of action is with the cracks below. It's the EK supremacy Evo.




No leak yet.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Does anybody know what the best course of action is with the cracks below. It's the EK supremacy Evo.
> 
> 
> 
> No leak yet.


First find the cause of the stress and remove it. Second would be to assess how deep the cracks are and make a decision of if you need a new top of not.


----------



## Jsunn

I would say contact EK, see if the can do anything for you. Not sure that it can be repaired? If you look at Perfomancepcs.com they have replacement tops for about $16.

-J


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Does anybody know what the best course of action is with the cracks below. It's the EK supremacy Evo.
> 
> No leak yet.


If it ain't broke, no need to fix it.

Cracks on plexi are stress fractures from over-tight fittings.

TCO


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I have the same cracks. EK should make plexi tops with a metal thread, like on the upcoming Maximus IX Extreme.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> EK D5 Revo... easy to work wit. they kept the base/pump as small as possible. and just quality


I have the ek d5 revo, I like it alot. However, I do not feel the pump top was kept as small as possible. Seems bigger than the bitspower top.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Does anybody know what the best course of action is with the cracks below. It's the EK supremacy Evo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No leak yet.


Had the same problem a year or so ago with mine. They're stress cracks from over tightened fittings. It didn't leak but i replaced the top anyways since its not worth the risk of leaks. You can get a new top from EK or PPCs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Always replace cracked tops,they are prone to complete failure once cracks start.
Fittings should be nipped up and then half a turn.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> So just had a 2nd D5 go bad on me in about a year. Looking to replace it. It was a swiftech d5 variable speed control model. What are some good d5's on the market at the moment.
> 
> *edit* I know they are all rebrands of the same thing just curious if anyones mileage has varied any with say the XSPC Vario's or Aquacomputer varios compared to the Swiftechs.


what are you doing 1 to fault would be unlucky, 2 there has to be an issue with your loop they are rated for 50,000 hours or 5 years of 24/7use.

and the last one I thought had faulted was actually a part of the reservoir - inlet orifice bush came loose and was stuck in the impeller, already brought a replacement pump.







anyone want to buty a D5 in NZ?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Does anybody know what the best course of action is with the cracks below. It's the EK supremacy Evo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No leak yet.


I had the same issue when I tore down my supremacy. I just ended up upgrading to an evo. I'd suggest just getting a new top since you already have the evo. Rather than trying to make that one last and possibly running the risk of a leak and component loss. PPC will help you out. Shoot them an email.


----------



## fisher6

I didn't know EK has a top replacement. If that's the case then i will just replace it and not risk a leak. But I can only find it on PPCs and not on EK webstore.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I didn't know EK has a top replacement. If that's the case then i will just replace it and not risk a leak. But I can only find it on PPCs and not on EK webstore.


I had trouble finding one for the supremacy, i know for a fact even if it isn't listed on PPCs they'll get you one for the evo.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> what are you doing 1 to fault would be unlucky, 2 there has to be an issue with your loop they are rated for 50,000 hours or 5 years of 24/7use.


^^this^^
2 x d5 going poof in a year is a user error. figure out what you did wrong and a) correct it and b) dont do it again. its almost impossible to get unlucky enough to have 2 d5 pumps go bad in a year. the odds are highly against it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say it's fluid/cooling related (run dry at one point or even improperly powered)


----------



## X-Nine

Fairly certain my D5 (from 2009) would still operate. I haven't used it since 2012. But, that will change once I do my next build. Modded Powermac G5 anyone?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hell I had a DDC last 7 years, bought it used after it already had 4 years of use and lasted 3 for me


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> Modded Powermac G5 anyone?


Consider me subbed. Good luck though, most of the G5 mods on this forum never get finished.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> Fairly certain my D5 (from 2009) would still operate. I haven't used it since 2012. But, that will change once I do my next build. Modded Powermac G5 anyone?


My first D5/655 from 08 or 09 is still running strong. Of course I say that and when I go home tonight and it'll fail. lol.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Always replace cracked tops,they are prone to complete failure once cracks start.
> Fittings should be nipped up and then half a turn.


half turn?! I have always gone less than that. Usually closer to 1\4 turn after snug (nipped up means something else here lol) and I've still managed to crack my new evo top that i bought to replace the mx top which did the same thing. I blamed myself for the first one but was very careful with the new one... I guess I'll just get the nickel or acetal version this time


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> what are you doing 1 to fault would be unlucky, 2 there has to be an issue with your loop they are rated for 50,000 hours or 5 years of 24/7use.
> 
> and the last one I thought had faulted was actually a part of the reservoir - inlet orifice bush came loose and was stuck in the impeller, already brought a replacement pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone want to buty a D5 in NZ?


I think I didn't make it clear. My first d5 lasted for like 2+ years of 24/7 use. Still rotated but sounded like it was pure grinding itself to death when I assumed it went bad. Opened it and checked everywhere for any obstructions and none were there. The one that just went "bad" sounds like there is some kind of imbalance because it started vibrating like mad. Its been going for 1 year and a few weeks 24/7. Opened it and cleaned it etc etc. Checked all the fins and nothing out of the ordinary besides one fin thats always had a little nick on it. That is how it arrived and has been running fine like so for the whole time. I honestly think it was just defective to begin with. It wouldn't suck water out of the res as easily as my old one did. Got a XSPC one from performance PC's on the way but will probably get an ek pump res combo when I do a build/loop refresh later this year.

I only run distilled water with a silver coil. Clean the loop periodically and have flushed all parts. So coolant should not be the issue.

*edit 2*
Video of the pump.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

After years of having my Pcie 8+6 Sleves, I finally ordered more and made them into 8+8. Not the prettiest of jobs, but still looks better than the umbilical cords I had as PCIe power cables.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Does anybody know what the best course of action is with the cracks below. It's the EK supremacy Evo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No leak yet.


Those just look like superficial stress cracks. Just around the threads. It isn't uncommon.

I put mine in the oven for a few hours When I noticed it. It seemed to help with the cracks and made them less visible. Who knows if it really helped but I have been running it 24/7 for the last 3 years and am not worried about it. Should I have replaced it? Perhaps, but I would be very surprised to see the block litteraly crack apart though.

Not great advice just sharing my experience.


----------



## Solonowarion

Double


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> I think I didn't make it clear. My first d5 lasted for like 2+ years of 24/7 use. Still rotated but sounded like it was pure grinding itself to death when I assumed it went bad. Opened it and checked everywhere for any obstructions and none were there. The one that just went "bad" sounds like there is some kind of imbalance because it started vibrating like mad. Its been going for 1 year and a few weeks 24/7. Opened it and cleaned it etc etc. Checked all the fins and nothing out of the ordinary besides one fin thats always had a little nick on it. That is how it arrived and has been running fine like so for the whole time. I honestly think it was just defective to begin with. It wouldn't suck water out of the res as easily as my old one did. Got a XSPC one from performance PC's on the way but will probably get an ek pump res combo when I do a build/loop refresh later this year.
> 
> I only run distilled water with a silver coil. Clean the loop periodically and have flushed all parts. So coolant should not be the issue.
> 
> *edit 2*
> Uploading video of it now.


I understand you are now replacing a 2nd faulty pump in less than 5 years, where most people are getting 10+ years from 1 pump


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> I understand you are now replacing a 2nd faulty pump in less than 5 years, where most people are getting 10+ years from 1 pump


People were thinking I had 2 die within a year period of operation. Wish I had kept the first as I honestly didn't try to test it since I always had my old XSPC bay res/pump combo for backup. It might have honestly been fine and had something that I somehow missed. I already had the 2nd pump in hand to go into the loop so I just chunked it. This one though is shot for sure. I still don't know how something in my loop could have caused it to go bad when it has never dry sumped and didn't have anything in it causing obstruction.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> People were thinking I had 2 die within a year period of operation. Wish I had kept the first as I honestly didn't try to test it since I always had my old XSPC bay res/pump combo for backup. It might have honestly been fine and had something that I somehow missed. I already had the 2nd pump in hand to go into the loop so I just chunked it. This one though is shot for sure. I still don't know how something in my loop could have caused it to go bad when it has never dry sumped and didn't have anything in it causing obstruction.


some PC coolants have added lubricants is all I could suggest.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> some PC coolants have added lubricants is all I could suggest.


Yeah I think my luck was just crap. I've never had a leak in all my years of watercooling so I guess this was it catching up to me with bad pumps haha.


----------



## mercinator16

Hi, I'm new to QDC fittings and I was wondering if it was ok to just have the qdc between the tubes like so:

rad->pump/res->tubing->*qdc*->tubing->GPU->tubing->*qdc*->tubing->CPU->tubing->*qdc*->tubing->rad


----------



## B NEGATIVE

D5's going bad can be linked to shipping,I had a couple go bad fairly quickly but they were shipped in a box in a jiffy bag with no protection. Small impacts,even removing the impeller can cause problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> *Those just look like superficial stress cracks.* Just around the threads. It isn't uncommon.
> 
> I put mine in the oven for a few hours When I noticed it. It seemed to help with the cracks and made them less visible. Who knows if it really helped but I have been running it 24/7 for the last 3 years and am not worried about it. Should I have replaced it? Perhaps, but I would be very surprised to see the block litteraly crack apart though.
> 
> Not great advice just sharing my experience.


No such thing.

The block doesnt have to crack apart,it just needs to open up,very possible in a stressed thread.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> Modded Powermac G5 anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> Consider me subbed. Good luck though, most of the G5 mods on this forum never get finished.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know. But I'm getting the itch. New build would be mATX, dual loops, window, fully sleeved, etc. (why mATX? cos ATX is boring, why dual loops for 1 CPU and 1 card? because I can! type of thing) I actually have two Powermac G5's in the garage, so I'll be removing the front bezel from one and using it as the basis for the rear bezel on the modded one, that way I don't have to cover the unsightly fan holes with a large plate like most modders have done.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> Yeah, I know. But I'm getting the itch. New build would be mATX, dual loops, window, fully sleeved, etc. (why mATX? cos ATX is boring, why dual loops for 1 CPU and 1 card? because I can! type of thing) I actually have two Powermac G5's in the garage, so I'll be removing the front bezel from one and using it as the basis for the rear bezel on the modded one, that way I don't have to cover the unsightly fan holes with a large plate like most modders have done.


I'll definitely sub that if you do a build log








. What radiators do you plan to use? I used a 360mm on the front and 240mm on the bottom and it was pretty tight for the water cooling gear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Consider me subbed. Good luck though, most of the G5 mods on this forum never get finished.


I managed to get mine finished (eventually)... its just not on the same level as the other builds here







.


Spoiler: Photos























I've since taken the EK DCP4.0 from this build and need to fit the replacement DDC.


----------



## VSG

Got this in from Bykski, but I'll be damned if I figure out how all those washers etc help in the mounting. Of course there is no manual anywhere to be found either, so I doubt I will get to do a review (which is what this came for)


----------



## dwolvin

??? Are you supposed to attach it from the underside of the mobo? That would be a complete pain, but it would look really nice. Hopefully you work it out, that's a nice looking block.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> ??? Are you supposed to attach it from the underside of the mobo? That would be a complete pain, but it would look really nice. Hopefully you work it out, that's a nice looking block.


Yeah, it is most definitely supposed to be attached from the underside as a monoblock but with no instructions provided I can only guess on the various possibly methods so it is unfair, and stupid of me, to test for everything possible. If they want this tested and sold, the least they should do is include a manual.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah, it is most definitely supposed to be attached from the underside as a monoblock but with no instructions provided I can only guess on the various possibly methods so it is unfair, and stupid of me, to test for everything possible. If they want this tested and sold, the least they should do is include a manual.


that's too bad, I like a few of their products and would love to see some good reviews for them. I could really see them blowing up stateside if they had the proper customer support


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> that's too bad, I like a few of their products and would love to see some good reviews for them. I could really see them blowing up stateside if they had the proper customer support


The review was part of their plan to get a more international/English base of customers. Not a good start though! I do like their fittings (the red ones on the block above), and the color matched GPU block that was sent along so let's see.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got this in from Bykski, but I'll be damned if I figure out how all those washers etc help in the mounting. Of course there is no manual anywhere to be found either, so I doubt I will get to do a review (which is what this came for)


White washers to the Backplate. Clear washers(4) go to the block under the standoffs. Screws go through the backplate to the studs. All other washers(clear) look like extras since those are clear and easily dropped. EK does something similar with their extra parts that come with their blocks. That setup would be a huge PITA without a cutout.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Delete. Double post.
















~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> White washers to the Backplate. Clear washers(4) go to the block under the standoffs. Screws go through the backplate to the studs. All other washers(clear) look like extras since those are clear and easily dropped. EK does something similar with their extra parts that come with their blocks. That setup would be a huge PITA without a cutout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That did not work for me, tried that already. The screws are not long enough to go through the backplate and the white, thick washers let alone the motherboard PCB, clear washers and into the threaded inserts on the block underside. I tried just clear washers on the other side, and even that was too much. The only thing that seemed to work was just the screws from the back and into the threaded inserts with a set of clear washers on the other side of the motherboard, but then there's not enough mounting pressure to spread TIM.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The review was part of their plan to get a more international/English base of customers. Not a good start though! I do like their fittings (the red ones on the block above), and the color matched GPU block that was sent along so let's see.


Rep here on OCN - PM if not emailed them direct already









*BYKSKI*

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1619360/hi-every-one/0_50*

*EDIT:* I did a restriction test on one of their older CPU blocks yesterday








*Bykski CPU-MTX-A*


----------



## VSG

lol that's definitely more.. inspired.. than the one I have. I am in contact with them, but he can't do much here either till the management makes an English manual or at least passes on the instructions. I got a ppt file but it was for the block you have above instead


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> White washers to the Backplate. Clear washers(4) go to the block under the standoffs. Screws go through the backplate to the studs. All other washers(clear) look like extras since those are clear and easily dropped. EK does something similar with their extra parts that come with their blocks. That setup would be a huge PITA without a cutout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That did not work for me, tried that already. The screws are not long enough to go through the backplate and the white, thick washers let alone the motherboard PCB, clear washers and into the threaded inserts on the block underside. I tried just clear washers on the other side, and even that was too much. The only thing that seemed to work was just the screws from the back and into the threaded inserts with a set of clear washers on the other side of the motherboard, but then there's not enough mounting pressure to spread TIM.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol that's definitely more.. inspired.. than the one I have. I am in contact with them, but he can't do much here either till the management makes an English manual or at least passes on the instructions. I got a ppt file but it was for the block you have above instead


Well that sucks. Didn't consider that you had already attempted that. So much for common sense application. Cause it definitely seems like that's the way to go. Did you try the white washers only? Seems like there would be a reason for the clear washers. Maybe add clear washers to the backplate in place of the white ones and omit washers on the Socket side?









Edit: NVM.







I read everything honest *****.









~Ceadder


----------



## dwolvin

Ah- Pics of the video block please! And, it's shocking how many companies want to do business here or the EU and don't bother with any translators...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Ah- Pics of the video block please! And, it's shocking how many companies want to do business here or the EU and don't bother with any translators...


Haven't got to photographing that yet, but it's this one:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Ah- Pics of the video block please! And, it's shocking how many companies want to do business here or the EU and don't bother with any translators...
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't got to photographing that yet, but it's this one:
Click to expand...

Even nVidia goin Red.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I got my 1080 in so it was time to get rid of the old 7970s and adding the 1080 made the computer look alot cleaner im happy with it right now.


----------



## Kimir

Is it me or some of those Bykski product look like ripoff EK one with slight changes, like the GPU block and the CPU block (with similar name as well) "EVO CPU -MTX-C", not using the same cooling design at all but seems to be using the the principle as the GPU waterblock.


----------



## dwolvin

It's not just you, but that's an interesting idea - low restriction CPU that's reversible (maybe)?


----------



## Alan1187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaiderUK*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my build
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> Mid Build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> End Result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6671446
> 
> This was my third water cooling build in all, however the first two were on the same hardware so im not sure that counts. Anyway, this was new hardware and new waterloop. I still have some small things I want to introduce, like braided cables and a flow monitor, but there is plenty of time for that.
> 
> Overall, im really pleased with how this turned out, however dont try and bend 304 stainless steel without the correct tools, you will end up buying fittings!
> 
> Enjoy


Glad to see someone else with a 600C. I'm working on mine, but I am waiting for the 1080 Ti before I got with rigid as I just got my 1080 last week, so I gotta do a return lol. I didn't see another way of having the res inside of the case without blocking the GPU either, glad to know I'm not crazy. But I think I may be able to swing it as I have the ek 100ml res/pump combo and it's just under the back plate of the GPU if I install it at the lowest point on the rear fan mesh. Very attractive build though, much props.




Mine in it's current state. I need to, again, do rigid, but I am waiting for a 1080 Ti so I can just get the water block and go. And I need to make all the cables.

edited in a white out light one for clarity of detail


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VuNguyenMinhAnh*
> 
> I am also using Syscooling SC C26 and SC pump P67F, SC S26 is similar but more advanced because there is an internal threaded steel plate
> 
> test pump SC P67 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLr096t0p0E


Anyone else sensing Shill with this guy. Joined today, has 5 posts and ALL of the trying to pimp this "Syscooling" brand?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Anyone else sensing Shill with this guy. Joined today, has 5 posts and ALL of the trying to pimp this "Syscooling" brand?


...and now they are gone.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> ...and now they are gone.


Check his user name, then look for it on this page...









https://nhattao.com/members/vunguyenminhanh.2349049/


----------



## rolldog

Ok, it's official. I've decided I need a second system, which will be built to maximize clock speed instead of cores. It's been a while since I've been shopping for cases, but does anyone have any recommendations for a nice micro atx case that can house a waterloop? Of course, I can mod the case if needed, but I just want to get an idea of who makes a nice looking micro atx case so I can start narrowing this down. Any opinions?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Ok, it's official. I've decided I need a second system, which will be built to maximize clock speed instead of cores. It's been a while since I've been shopping for cases, but does anyone have any recommendations for a nice micro atx case that can house a waterloop? Of course, I can mod the case if needed, but I just want to get an idea of who makes a nice looking micro atx case so I can start narrowing this down. Any opinions?


Lots of options, really depends on what you want in terms of size, cooling and hardware.

You might want to make a thread, and link it here, this way people from the watercooling club can jump in without filling this thread with kinda off topic posts with case recommendations.


----------



## Kimir

Speaking of case, I received my Junsbo RM4 today, quality is pretty good IMO.
Now I can put those hardware that was on boxes in it. Then I'll have to plan the waterloop in there.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> ...and now they are gone.


thats what i was hoping for when i flagged his last post.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Speaking of case, I received my Junsbo RM4 today, quality is pretty good IMO.
> Now I can put those hardware that was on boxes in it. Then I'll have to plan the waterloop in there.


Mine was delayed so i cancelled it, the money is now going towards a 1080ti.


----------



## lowfat

Been trying to pick up a Swiftech Storm water block for a few years now. Finally found someone w/ one for sale. I can't imagine how restrictive this thing is. Each of those impingement jets is around 0.5mm. Each jet shoots water over those tiny pins, and the water returns around the pin. When it was released the Storm (well actually the Storm G5 but good luck ever finding one of those) was about as good as a water block could get when cooling a naked die CPU. The plan is to use on on a naked Skylake. I just need to get a mounting bracket created.

http://hostthenpost.org
http://hostthenpost.org
http://hostthenpost.org
http://hostthenpost.org
http://hostthenpost.org
http://hostthenpost.org

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got this in from Bykski, but I'll be damned if I figure out how all those washers etc help in the mounting. Of course there is no manual anywhere to be found either, so I doubt I will get to do a review (which is what this came for)


Damn that's hot.


----------



## mikysee




----------



## Emissary of Pain

*::: Deleted :::*


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Been trying to pick up a Swiftech Storm water block for a few years now. Finally found someone w/ one for sale. I can't imagine how restrictive this thing is. Each of those impingement jets is around 0.5mm. Each jet shoots water over those tiny pins, and the water returns around the pin. When it was released the Storm (well actually the Storm G5 but good luck ever finding one of those) was about as good as a water block could get when cooling a naked die CPU. The plan is to use on on a naked Skylake. I just need to get a mounting bracket created.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org
> http://hostthenpost.org
> http://hostthenpost.org
> http://hostthenpost.org
> http://hostthenpost.org
> http://hostthenpost.org
> 
> 
> Damn that's hot.


looks like a blast from the past, just curious that it appears all the pins are broken on your block.
I searched and couldn't find a clear picture of the pins this was the best I could come up with.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> looks like a blast from the past, just curious that it appears all the pins are broken on your block.
> I searched and couldn't find a clear picture of the pins this was the best I could come up with.


I don't think they are broke off. That tiny nub of a pin is all there is. As far as I could tell this block had never been opened before.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't think they are broke off. That tiny nub of a pin is all there is. As far as I could tell this block had never been opened before.


I zoomed into your pic I think you are right just a little dirty making it hard to tell.
I guess I pictured a pointy pin rather than a square top to aid with flow.


----------



## alltheGHz

This should be filed under r/TIFU

I had to separate my res from my pump in order to send back the pump for an RMA, but now that the pump is back I don't have the screws to reattach it.

Has anyone else had this issue? What are some possible solutions? None of the stereotypical screws work.


----------



## lowfat

Most watercooling hardware is generally M4.


----------



## alltheGHz

I jimmied up some screws, but it is leaking very badly. I'm seriously considering supergluing the pump to the res in addition to my crappy screws.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> This should be filed under r/TIFU
> 
> I had to separate my res from my pump in order to send back the pump for an RMA, but now that the pump is back I don't have the screws to reattach it.
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? What are some possible solutions? None of the stereotypical screws work.


Model?

As lowfat has said m4 and m3 are common in water cooling gear.


----------



## Ceadderman

My 1Ts' were coarse thread screws iirc. But it's been a couple years since I've had em apart and have since sold them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

I decided to test if Alphacool's brass hardline could be bent, but I seem to be having no luck.

Is it made strictly for straight runs between fittings or can it be bent and I am just terrible ?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> I decided to test if Alphacool's brass hardline could be bent, but I seem to be having no luck.
> 
> Is it made strictly for straight runs between fittings or can it be bent and I am just terrible ?


Are you using a pipe bender? With metal piping, it can be bend without kinking, provided you have a bender/use the right technique.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Are you using a pipe bender? With metal piping, it can be bend without kinking, provided you have a bender/use the right technique.


Must be my technique because I am using a pipe bender but it doesn't slide smoothly. it starts to slide along and start the initial bend but the pipe snaps


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Is it a bad idea to have a 90 degree fitting right at the pumps outlet? It would make my tubing much cleaner all I have in the loop is 1 gpu 1 cpu and a 560 rad, pump is d5.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is it a bad idea to have a 90 degree fitting right at the pumps outlet? It would make my tubing much cleaner all I have in the loop is 1 gpu 1 cpu and a 560 rad, pump is d5.


I don't believe so. I did a custom loop in an NCase M1, and uses two 90's on the DDC pump outlets. Actually, the inlet from the reservoir had a 90 and a 45, the outlet had a 90. Ran pretty fine.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

While I suppose it's not a "best case" situation, I've done it before too. Basically, even though they're much more restrictive than a straight length of tubing, a 90 is still much, much less restrictive than even the most free-flowing blocks, filters, radiators... basically everything else in your loop.

If a single extra 90 was the difference between decent flow and not nearly enough flow... half the builds in this thread wouldn't work very well.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is it a bad idea to have a 90 degree fitting right at the pumps outlet? It would make my tubing much cleaner all I have in the loop is 1 gpu 1 cpu and a 560 rad, pump is d5.


I believe the issue is more if you have a 90 on the inlet as it can imbalance the impeller without a certain length of straight tubing between the 90 and the pump. As for a 90 on the outlet, while it's not ideal, it certainly shouldn't give you any problems!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Thanks!
I have been building my loop today and almost done now, it turns out ek cant measure, their zmt tubing is way too thick and seems I am not the only one to make such claim, bloody fingers after messing with just 1 fitting, 7 more to go, seriously im done with ek.
Is there anything I can do about it? Lube it up with something or I dont know, none of the local stores have any tubing either so if I cant use the zmt I got to wait another week...
Tubing is 10/16mm fitting are barrow, had this exact problem with 13/19mm zmt a while back with ek fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> I decided to test if Alphacool's brass hardline could be bent, but I seem to be having no luck.
> 
> Is it made strictly for straight runs between fittings or can it be bent and I am just terrible ?


Its brass and cannot be bent.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its brass and cannot be bent.


Thanks very much







... I was testing a piece my bud had left over before I bought ... Good thing I decided to do that









Anyone have any experience with Enzotech fittings and hard tube ? ...


----------



## Blackops_2

Probably need to take heat to it to bend it. Brass becomes pretty soft when heated, least that's why most of precision shooters who reload anneal, because it work hardens as it is sized over and over again. So if you're dead set on bending it, i might try some heat.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Probably need to take heat to it to bend it. Brass becomes pretty soft when heated, least that's why most of precision shooters who reload anneal, because it work hardens as it is sized over and over again. So if you're dead set on bending it, i might try some heat.


Thanks for the information ... Honestly I am not deadset on it ... The original plan was to use acrylic anyway, figured I would just give it a try.

Just need to finalize my radiators and fittings and I can finally start my first WC loop. (really want the Black Ice GTR rads but everyone says they are very noisy so I am looking for alternatives)


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Model?
> 
> As lowfat has said m4 and m3 are common in water cooling gear.


It is an EK DCP 2.2


----------



## alltheGHz

Sorry for double post, on a scale of 1-10, 1 being "don't do it" and 10 being "no worries whatsoever", will I be OK running a single block loop without a res?


----------



## emsj86

It can be done just like an all in one. It comes down to filling , bleeding, and draining that is the hard part. I think you need to take a step back and take the time to fix the problem or wait for the correct screws before jumping into something like super glueing or tearing down the loop. That's how things go from bad to worse


----------



## r9miner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Tubing is 10/16mm fitting are barrow, had this exact problem with 13/19mm zmt a while back with ek fittings.


Had the same problem with Primochill LRT 10/16 and Barrow fittings, switched to EK fittings and the fit is perfect. IIRC someone in the Barrow fittings thread said they used ZMT 10/16 but had to grease the ends of the tube to make it fit.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Sorry for double post, on a scale of 1-10, 1 being "don't do it" and 10 being "no worries whatsoever", will I be OK running a single block loop without a res?


Back "in the day" (I'd say mid '90s to early 2000's) reservoirs weren't common or even used, and t-lines were the most common way of being able to fill a loop and be able to bleed the excess air out without running into excess pressure or vacuum related issues (both of which are bad things when dealing with liquids which tend not to play well in pressurized scenarios). Going without a reservoir is more than possible, just means approaching things differently - I suspect most people use a reservoir due to aesthetics and the fact it offers additional volume, plus a visual indicator as to coolant levels and a common area to easily bleed excess air out. They also have the benefit of being able to be directly connected to a pump if one so wishes (res/pump combos).

T-lines were also done "back in the day" because the only real options for decent pumps were Eheim pond pumps, which were gigantic and ran on 120V or 220/240V systems - there were some fairly crafty boards made back before specially designed for watercooling 12V pumps were readily available, most involving passthrough power or the more ingenious ones being relay controlled and tied into the 20/24pin ATX connectors on one end, and 120V on the other.

Tl;dr: Yup, it's possible to do a watercooling loop without a reservoir.


----------



## Spectre-

I just realised i never posted any pics to be a part of this club

also 480mm rad in a P3


----------



## outofmyheadyo

What's with the leaning tower?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get a 390x block ek has them but with tax it's $180 for a waterblock ppcs is out


Visiontek had them for 50 dollars with backplate. Only downside is they are branded "Visiontek"


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> What's with the leaning tower?


the mount for the res got bent now its only supported 1 screw on the top


----------



## Arsinic

Off work a couple days last week so took a drive down to performance pcs and picked up some gear forgot angled fittings though


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> T-lines were also done "back in the day" because the only real options for decent pumps were Eheim pond pumps, which were gigantic and ran on 120V or 220/240V systems - there were some fairly crafty boards made back before specially designed for watercooling 12V pumps were readily available, most involving passthrough power or the more ingenious ones being relay controlled and tied into the 20/24pin ATX connectors on one end, and 120V on the other.
> 
> Tl;dr: Yup, it's possible to do a watercooling loop without a reservoir.


There was also the Hydor L30, still uses 120VAC but was significantly smaller. Damn thing was terribly loud though. 95% sure I still have a huge Eheim 1250 in my closet somewhere.

I can't remember who made my relay but it was a PCI card and the relay triggered through the PCI power.

O them memories....


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> There was also the Hydor L30, still uses 120VAC but was significantly smaller. Damn thing was terribly loud though. 95% sure I still have a huge Eheim 1250 in my closet somewhere.
> 
> I can't remember who made my relay but it was a PCI card and the relay triggered through the PCI power.
> 
> O them memories....


So far I've found reference to one of them... CritiCool PowerPlant PCI Relay Card Rev.2 over on http://www.overclockers.com/controlling-pumps-and-initiating-emergency-shutdowns/

Aha, whoooo, it IS on the wayback machine! https://web.archive.org/web/20030412084203/http://www.criticool.com/Powerplant.html

That article was written back when Peltiers were being experimented with to provide better cooling with things. I distinctly remember wanting one myself, until more people starting commenting about condensation issues and how Peltiers weren't able to keep up with a lot of the newer processors anyways...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> So far I've found reference to one of them... CritiCool PowerPlant PCI Relay Card Rev.2 over on http://www.overclockers.com/controlling-pumps-and-initiating-emergency-shutdowns/
> 
> Aha, whoooo, it IS on the wayback machine! https://web.archive.org/web/20030412084203/http://www.criticool.com/Powerplant.html
> 
> That article was written back when Peltiers were being experimented with to provide better cooling with things. I distinctly remember wanting one myself, until more people starting commenting about condensation issues and how Peltiers weren't able to keep up with a lot of the newer processors anyways...


Ah yes Criticool, that would be it. Pretty impressive that you found that.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Out of curiosity what does everyone thing about Inline filters. I have never used them before and I realise they add restriction but I would be able to split the line and run 2 in parallel to reduce this before it goes back into the res and its a dual D5 set up on 1 loop to head pressure is not an issue. All new rads will get a go of Blitzpro 1 and 2 on all rads.

I guess I am just considering it in the event I get a CPU or GPU block that flakes its Nickel and want to prevent any damage. Has anyone ever had a situation where they were a system saver? Or are they just another useless thing to waste money on?

Edit due to spelling corrections


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Out of curiosity what does everyone thing about Inline filters. I have never used them before and I realise they add restriction but I would be able to split the line and run 2 in parallel to reduce this before it goes back into the res and its a dual D5 set up on 1 loop to head pressure is not an issue. All new rads will get a go of Blitzpro 1 and 2 on all rads.
> 
> I guess I am just considering it in the event I get a CPU or GPU block that fakes its chrome and want to prevent any damage. Has anyone ever had a situation where they were a system saver? Or are they just another useless thing to waste money on?


Backpacking water filtration technology has exploded the past couple years.

I use a Sawyer Mini on my Camelbak and it might work on my loop. I have 2 pumps though.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Backpacking water filtration technology has exploded the past couple years.
> 
> I use a Sawyer Mini on my Camelbak and it might work on my loop. I have 2 pumps though.


They make fine wire mesh screen filters specifically to PC Watercooling. I am not looking to filter the liquid as my rig will never see anything other than Distilled or Mayhems X-1. I am just thinking about IF a block were to flake.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Just finished my P5 build for ryzen 1700!













alphacool monsta 560
4x phanteks f140mp
mmrs 300mm res
alphacool d5 mcp655 vario
barrow fittings
ek zmt ( never again )
ek fc acetal ( 980ti )
ek supremacy evo (ryzen 1700)
distilled water
2 temp sensors


----------



## rj2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Just finished my P5 build for ryzen 1700!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ek zmt ( never again )


looks fantastic!!
i have to ask why never again with the ek zmt tubing??-i am soon tearing down and planning on using that tubing as i really like the flat black color
what were the issues you encountered?
thanks


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Thanks, the ZMT is way too thick, I dont think you area supposed to use pliers to tighten fittings, even soaped them up but will never want to do it again, other tubing I have used is much easier to work with.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> This should be filed under r/TIFU
> 
> I had to separate my res from my pump in order to send back the pump for an RMA, but now that the pump is back I don't have the screws to reattach it.
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? What are some possible solutions? None of the stereotypical screws work.


Try 6/32 screws.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is it a bad idea to have a 90 degree fitting right at the pumps outlet? It would make my tubing much cleaner all I have in the loop is 1 gpu 1 cpu and a 560 rad, pump is d5.


I've been using Bitspower fittings lately, and instead of using their 90 degree fitting, I prefer their double rotary 90 degree fitting instead. Maybe it's just me, but it seems less restrictive than their 90 degree G1/4 fitting, plus they give you a little more room to work with when installing them. Since they're basically curved, you don't get as clean of a look if you're just installing straight hard line tubing with no bends.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> It is an EK DCP 2.2


M3x20 screws mount the pump to the reservoir, but you could buy some 6/32 screws in the US, which should work. Also, Lowes sells Metric screws.


----------



## DarthBaggins

ZMT is definitely a workout for the fingertips lol


----------



## FXformat

Just finished my loop and hung the PC on the wall, quick cellphone pic. When i finish everything i'll take better pics, what do you guys think?

16mm Acrylic tubing and Bitspower fittings, i'm about to throw up adding up the price for these fittings. There's an air pocket trapped in the loop, going to run the pump on max for a few will work itself out.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Just finished my loop and hung the PC on the wall, quick cellphone pic. When i finish everything i'll take better pics, what do you guys think?
> 
> 16mm Acrylic tubing and Bitspower fittings, i'm about to throw up adding up the price for these fittings. There's an air pocket trapped in the loop, going to run the pump on max for a few will work itself out.


What a showstopper. Looks like it belongs in a Bond villian lair.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> They make fine wire mesh screen filters specifically to PC Watercooling. I am not looking to filter the liquid as my rig will never see anything other than Distilled or Mayhems X-1. I am just thinking about IF a block were to flake.


The sawywer filter blocks bacteria and algae. Unfiltered distilled can harbor microorganisms.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> What a showstopper. Looks like it belongs in a Bond villian lair.


Thanks bro, doesn't cool quite as good as your rig but for what i use it for, light gaming/work, it gets the job done.


----------



## rj2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Thanks, the ZMT is way too thick, I dont think you area supposed to use pliers to tighten fittings, even soaped them up but will never want to do it again, other tubing I have used is much easier to work with.


hmmm interesting,i will find out how it goes fitting the tubing on bitspower fittings,if no go i also have enough primochill lrt tubing


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Ah yes Criticool, that would be it. Pretty impressive that you found that.


If only I could remember the string I used to find it, but I agree.. I had totally forgotten the name but definitely remembered reading about them. Years later I still want to do a watercooled loop but I keep spending money on other things.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> The sawywer filter blocks bacteria and algae. Unfiltered distilled can harbor microorganisms.


I am not trying to filter the water for minerals or bacteria. I can buy distilled water for $0.69 a gallon by me and throw a few drops of biocide or use Mayhems X-1 which is pure and has biocide in it. I am asking if anyone has had a PC Watercooling filter save their pump or other damage due to Nickel Plating or other plating from fittings/block flaking?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> I am not trying to filter the water for minerals or bacteria. I can buy distilled water for $0.69 a gallon by me and throw a few drops of biocide or use Mayhems X-1 which is pure and has biocide in it. I am asking if anyone has had a PC Watercooling filter save their pump or other damage due to Nickel Plating or other plating from fittings/block flaking?


My guess would be that it _might_ have... although that might mean that the filter clogged entirely and you burn up your pump due to starvation instead of chunks of plating.







(Or worse, blow a line because of back pressure and have everything drenched in the process!)

On that note I would definitely caution anyone with a 24/7 loop that's running a filter to include a flow indicator and a controller that will allow for alarm/shutdown procedure to be associated with a low-flow state. Depending on the size of the mesh it also adds a decent amount of restriction to the loop. For that reason I use mine "outside" - i.e. I put it on my drain line. That way I can see when I drain/refill if there are chunks of anything in the loop - and if there are, break down blocks/pump(s) before refilling.

As with anything some designs are better than others, but I've always considered filters to cause more effort than they're worth. Especially if you don't use one like the Aqua Computer style that lets you see the screen through a window... the inline one's require breaking the whole segment of loop down to see if they're full or not - and at that point you might as well just break everything down and do a full maintenance cycle. IMO at least.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Hi!

I got some buildup in my blocks..

I washed the blocks and rads with distilked water before usage, only used EK ekoolant evo clear as my coolant.

The CPU block and GPU block was new, pump, res and tads have been used before.

My loop is in pieces, what would be a nice way to clean it? (I am still waiting for my AM4 motherboard)

Thank you!


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I got some buildup in my blocks..
> 
> I washed the blocks and rads with distilked water before usage, only used EK ekoolant evo clear as my coolant.
> 
> The CPU block and GPU block was new, pump, res and tads have been used before.
> 
> My loop is in pieces, what would be a nice way to clean it? (I am still waiting for my AM4 motherboard)
> 
> Thank you!


You can use a light acid such as vinegar, or you can pick up one of the Mayhems Blitz kits to get a more substantial and deeper clean of the radiators. As for the blocks, carefully pull them apart and you can use a gentle brush to clean the channels out with a bit of vinegar to help break up any of the build-up.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I got some buildup in my blocks..
> 
> I washed the blocks and rads with distilked water before usage, only used EK ekoolant evo clear as my coolant.
> 
> The CPU block and GPU block was new, pump, res and tads have been used before.
> 
> My loop is in pieces, what would be a nice way to clean it? (I am still waiting for my AM4 motherboard)
> 
> Thank you!


what kind of buildup? buildup from what?


----------



## fa5terba11

please recommend a white or blue led fan that's suitable for watercooling


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> please recommend a white or blue led fan that's suitable for watercooling


Corsair ML120 PRO Led


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> ZMT is definitely a workout for the fingertips lol


Crap just ordered this for my loop redo. I used primochill advanced lrt before and that hurts the fingers like hell.


----------



## JunkaDK

Just wanted to share my latest build







Enjoy.. see all the specs and more pics here: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/x6sZxr


----------



## MURDoctrine

I'm on the same boat as you. If I can snag one today I think I'm just going to pull the trigger. It will practically double my FPS even at stock coming from the 980. This is of course if my CPU doesn't bottleneck me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> Just wanted to share my latest build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy.. see all the specs and more pics here: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/x6sZxr


Really digging it. Does that rgb lighting give good purple lighting? Thinking about snagging an Asus board when/if I do a 7700k ug in the near future. Thats the one thing I've hated about the RGB kits I've had. They can't do a "good" purple imo.


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> I'm on the same boat as you. If I can snag one today I think I'm just going to pull the trigger. It will practically double my FPS even at stock coming from the 980. This is of course if my CPU doesn't bottleneck me.
> Really digging it. Does that rgb lighting give good purple lighting? Thinking about snagging an Asus board when/if I do a 7700k ug in the near future. Thats the one thing I've hated about the RGB kits I've had. They can't do a "good" purple imo.


Wish i could answer that.. I am SO colorblind. I thought my RGB was blue? Isnt it?


----------



## GreedyMuffin

That looks more purple to me. But I really liked the look!

The buildup I am having is green-ish, very hard to spot on camera for some reason.


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> That looks more purple to me. But I really liked the look!
> 
> The buildup I am having is green-ish, very hard to spot on camera for some reason.


Thanks anyway








I should just turn off the lights anyway, since its a closed case


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> Just wanted to share my latest build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy.. see all the specs and more pics here: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/x6sZxr


Really digging the soft tubing runs. Very clean and logical.


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Really digging the soft tubing runs. Very clean and logical.


Thank you. I am also pleased with it







Neat and simple.


----------



## merdaditoro

Aerocool DS. Either 120mm or 140mm.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> Just wanted to share my latest build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy.. see all the specs and more pics here: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/x6sZxr
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What are your thoughts on the EVGA PowerLinks?


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> What are your thoughts on the EVGA PowerLinks?


Not sure yet.. they are quite bulky.. might replace them with nicer cables. ?


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> Not sure yet.. they are quite bulky.. might replace them with nicer cables. ?


One came with my 1080- didn't use it because of my case layout but I have to say it look like a good piece of kit. I'll use it next teardown (probably).


----------



## KaffieneKing

@JunkaDK are your GPS plumbed in correctly? Looks to me that it's going in and coming out on the same side. Maybe it's not but keep an eye on the temp.

EDIT: thanks diva, glad to hear that you dont have to tear your loop down!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @JunkaDK are your GPS plumbed in correctly? Looks to me that it's going in and coming out on the same side. Maybe it's not but keep an eye on the temp.


It's a dual serial, so he's good


----------



## Sazexa

So everyone, I've come up with two designs and I'm looking for opinions on what might look best. One is straight forward, one is a bit more complex. For reference, I'm mounting my pump/reservoir in the rear chamber of my case (it's a split case, main components on one side, PSU/drives on the other.) I'm doing this to keep the interior looking a bit cleaner, as well as keep the noise levels down. With the drives and pump in the rear chamber, I can acoustically dampen the rear chamber and help minimize noise. Also, I'm using glass tubes that will be professionally bent, and then frosting them. The white box in the drawings is a mock-up of the bottom radiator.

The first loop is straight forward. Using panel mount passthroughs, the blue line is the one coming in from the pump/reservoir outlet. It flows to the blocks all in parallel. The red line is the liquid leaving, and entering the bottom radiator. Then, liquid goes to the top radiator, back into the second passthrough, where once in the rear chamber it returns to the pump/reservoir. This is a pretty simple/easy solution. I just dislike how part of my monoblock's text would be covered by tubes. So you won't particularly see the lighting to well on that location. Also, the run from the bottom and top radiator aren't perfectly inline. So I'd need to make a rather tight off-set or use a connector to offset the tube, which might look a little weird. And since glass tubing is so rigid, placing that tube between the radiators might pose a small issue.



The next loop is more complex. So basically, the blocks all stay in parallel, but I make it look like two separate loops. I'd split the outlet from the pump, and split the inlet back into the pump as well. The top-most and bottom-most passthroughs send "fresh" liquid from the pump, to both the monoblock and GPU's at the same time. From there, the "two loops" both have liquid flow into a radiator. Each radiator then has a middle-placed passthrough, where the cooled liquid flows into, combines in the rear chamber, and enters back into the pump/reservoir combo. This design is a bit more work. It will also be a bit of a hassle to make sure all four passthroughs line up perfectly. But I think this is aesthetically the better option. What's everyone else's thoughts?


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's a dual serial, so he's good


Yes.. I'm just fine


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So everyone, I've come up with two designs and I'm looking for opinions on what might look best. One is straight forward, one is a bit more complex. For reference, I'm mounting my pump/reservoir in the rear chamber of my case (it's a split case, main components on one side, PSU/drives on the other.) I'm doing this to keep the interior looking a bit cleaner, as well as keep the noise levels down. With the drives and pump in the rear chamber, I can acoustically dampen the rear chamber and help minimize noise. Also, I'm using glass tubes that will be professionally bent, and then frosting them. The white box in the drawings is a mock-up of the bottom radiator.
> 
> The first loop is straight forward. Using panel mount passthroughs, the blue line is the one coming in from the pump/reservoir outlet. It flows to the blocks all in parallel. The red line is the liquid leaving, and entering the bottom radiator. Then, liquid goes to the top radiator, back into the second passthrough, where once in the rear chamber it returns to the pump/reservoir. This is a pretty simple/easy solution. I just dislike how part of my monoblock's text would be covered by tubes. So you won't particularly see the lighting to well on that location. Also, the run from the bottom and top radiator aren't perfectly inline. So I'd need to make a rather tight off-set or use a connector to offset the tube, which might look a little weird. And since glass tubing is so rigid, placing that tube between the radiators might pose a small issue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next loop is more complex. So basically, the blocks all stay in parallel, but I make it look like two separate loops. I'd split the outlet from the pump, and split the inlet back into the pump as well. The top-most and bottom-most passthroughs send "fresh" liquid from the pump, to both the monoblock and GPU's at the same time. From there, the "two loops" both have liquid flow into a radiator. Each radiator then has a middle-placed passthrough, where the cooled liquid flows into, combines in the rear chamber, and enters back into the pump/reservoir combo. This design is a bit more work. It will also be a bit of a hassle to make sure all four passthroughs line up perfectly. But I think this is aesthetically the better option. What's everyone else's thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The second options looks way better imo. I feel like actually splitting those parts into separate parallel portions will create some issues though. Even if there was perfect balance between the cpu and gpu portion, the flowrate is going to be really low in the gpus since you'll be getting only a portion of the flow. You could just connect two of the passthroughs behind the tray and keep the two loop aesthetic while keeping everything but the gpus in serial. That would be my vote


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> The second options looks way better imo. I feel like actually splitting those parts into separate parallel portions will create some issues though. Even if there was perfect balance between the cpu and gpu portion, the flowrate is going to be really low in the gpus since you'll be getting only a portion of the flow. You could just connect two of the passthroughs behind the tray and keep the two loop aesthetic while keeping everything but the gpus in serial. That would be my vote


That's not a bad idea either. I'm using a DDC pump, if that makes much of a difference. I believe it has a bit more pressure than the D5.


----------



## FXformat

I redid my loop this morning, it's more stable now. There is a huge air pocket inside that i've been trying to get out, does anyone know if running the pump on max for a long time will do any harm? Little by little i think this is the only way to get it out.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> The second options looks way better imo. I feel like actually splitting those parts into separate parallel portions will create some issues though. Even if there was perfect balance between the cpu and gpu portion, the flowrate is going to be really low in the gpus since you'll be getting only a portion of the flow. You could just connect two of the passthroughs behind the tray and keep the two loop aesthetic while keeping everything but the gpus in serial. That would be my vote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *That's not a bad idea either*. I'm using a DDC pump, if that makes much of a difference. I believe it has a bit more pressure than the D5.
Click to expand...

It's actually a really good idea,

the 2 GPUs in parallel is very low restriction, if that were to be in parallel with the CPU, with line splitting fittings, then the CPU would get the short end of the flow stick, . . .

Running the GPU's in parallel, but having that parallel pair in series with the CPU, makes sure the entire flow goes thru the CPU block, and then divides in half thru each GPU block.

It'll still look like a dual loop for the aesthetic, but have good flow with a single pump.

D.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*


Option 2. Looks a lot cleaner. A bit more work, but I think it will be worth it.


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I redid my loop this morning, it's more stable now. There is a huge air pocket inside that i've been trying to get out, does anyone know if running the pump on max for a long time will do any harm? Little by little i think this is the only way to get it out.


No real harm in running it full for an extended period. What I like to do with stubborn air bubbles is turn the pump on and off in intervals to help motivate the bubbles that your standard "rock and tilt" motions can't eliminate.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's actually a really good idea,
> 
> the 2 GPUs in parallel is very low restriction, if that were to be in parallel with the CPU, with line splitting fittings, then the CPU would get the short end of the flow stick, . . .
> 
> Running the GPU's in parallel, but having that parallel pair in series with the CPU, makes sure the entire flow goes thru the CPU block, and then divides in half thru each GPU block.
> 
> It'll still look like a dual loop for the aesthetic, but have good flow with a single pump.
> 
> D.


I have had the loop go through all blocks in parallel before, it was just something more of pump/reservoir -> blocks -> radiator -> pump/reservoir

The temperatures were fine, CPU max load temps OC'd from 3.0 to 4.0 at 1.25V were along the lines of 70-75C max. But GPU's were more like 45C max. So, you may be correct. The CPU may have been getting the short end of the stick. At the same time, this CPU block doesn't actively cool the PCH. It just does the CPU and VRM, so I doubt it's much more restrictive than the GPU's. My concern with my initial second loop plan would have been with GPU block flow rate, honestly. As theoretically if the loop flow is split half between the two loops, it'd be split to half again with each GPU. If all restriction was equal, correct?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I have had the loop go through all blocks in parallel before, it was just something more of pump/reservoir -> blocks -> radiator -> pump/reservoir
> 
> The temperatures were fine, CPU max load temps OC'd from 3.0 to 4.0 at 1.25V were along the lines of 70-75C max. But GPU's were more like 45C max. So, you may be correct. The CPU may have been getting the short end of the stick. At the same time, this CPU block doesn't actively cool the PCH. It just does the CPU and VRM, so I doubt it's much more restrictive than the GPU's. My concern with my initial second loop plan would have been with GPU block flow rate, honestly. As theoretically if the loop flow is split half between the two loops, it'd be split to half again with each GPU. If all restriction was equal, correct?


yeah that was my primary concern. half of half ends up being not much. I'm not afraid of parallel or anything, I just put a loop together with 2xgpu, cpu and a 360 rad in parallel (hw labs gtx). But splitting another parallel off of a parallel is asking for trouble


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does someone know what this thing is called it`s basically a G1/4 threaded port with a tube to use for a reservoir top inlet to avoid splashing sounds, that`s exactly what I need for my res but havent been able to find one, similar piece from other manufacturers would work aswell preferrably with transparent tube, I just want to screw it into my reservoir without taking it apart and attach my fitting to it, thanks!








I found it on this but, are there similar parts from other manufacturers ?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> 
> 
> Does someone know what this thing is called it`s basically a G1/4 threaded port with a tube to use for a reservoir top inlet to avoid splashing sounds, that`s exactly what I need for my res but havent been able to find one, similar piece from other manufacturers would work aswell preferrably with transparent tube, I just want to screw it into my reservoir without taking it apart and attach my fitting to it, thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it on this but, are there similar parts from other manufacturers ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's an aqua pipe.


----------



## rikkiepc

So for my first hard line build I got the Alphacool PETG 16mmOD and the matching Alphacool insert. I think the insert is waaaay to loose. What do you guys think?


----------



## haritz85

I guess that this silicon cord is for 10mm ID. Try to change it because you won't be able to bend properly.


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haritz85*
> 
> I guess that this silicon cord is for 10mm ID. Try to change it because you won't be able to bend properly.


It's this one so that should have been okay. Any tips for an insert that will fit the Alphacool 13/16mm PETG?


----------



## Shiikamaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I redid my loop this morning, it's more stable now. There is a huge air pocket inside that i've been trying to get out, does anyone know if running the pump on max for a long time will do any harm? Little by little i think this is the only way to get it out.


for how expensive ekwb are, the finishing on the blocks is so bad....


----------



## outofmyheadyo

yep pretty crappy, that`s why I went with heatkiller for 1080ti, cheaper, looks better, and cools better.


----------



## DrFreeman35

I just love opinions.,...


----------



## 0ldChicken

I actually bought a couple ek fc1080 blocks and was going to switch from my 980's until I saw them in person. Sold them off and will get some 1080ti blocks from someone else soon. My kryographics blocks really blew me away when I saw them in person, I think watercool really nailed it lately though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> It's this one so that should have been okay. Any tips for an insert that will fit the Alphacool 13/16mm PETG?


I would write them and let them know what has happened. They should be able to send you the correct size insert for free since it is their mistake


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> So for my first hard line build I got the Alphacool PETG 16mmOD and the matching Alphacool insert. I think the insert is waaaay to loose. What do you guys think?


Yup that is wayyyyy loose, you're going to kink the tube when you bend it. I had that issue, i use barrow's inserts and it fits snug against the 16OD tubing i used.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> for how expensive ekwb are, the finishing on the blocks is so bad....


You mean the machining marks? Yeah it's noticeable, but they make the best looking blocks, been using them for years and never had an issue so.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It's an aqua pipe.


Correct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> for how expensive ekwb are, the finishing on the blocks is so bad....


Elaborate please.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> I just love opinions.,...


Always.

TCO


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I
> I would write them and let them know what has happened. They should be able to send you the correct size insert for free since it is their mistake


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Yup that is wayyyyy loose, you're going to kink the tube when you bend it. I had that issue, i use barrow's inserts and it fits snug against the 16OD tubing i used.


Yeah I thougt so. The store told me it was perfectly fine and that I should just make my bends in multiple steps in stead of in one go. Never heard of that before.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> Yeah I thougt so. The store told me it was perfectly fine and that I should just make my bends in multiple steps in stead of in one go. Never heard of that before.


This is how it should fit if you want to retain the shape of the bend as much as possible...snug like this


----------



## Recr3ational

Finally upgraded from my 980. Love the hydro copper.


----------



## Shiikamaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Correct
> Elaborate please.
> Always.
> 
> TCO


http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/106420092-post49.html
http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/106420105-post50.html
http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/106420138-post51.html

waterblocks at half the price.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I
> I would write them and let them know what has happened. They should be able to send you the correct size insert for free since it is their mistake
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Yup that is wayyyyy loose, you're going to kink the tube when you bend it. I had that issue, i use barrow's inserts and it fits snug against the 16OD tubing i used.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah I thougt so. The store told me it was perfectly fine and that I should just make my bends in multiple steps in stead of in one go. Never heard of that before.
Click to expand...

What store is it? I'ma gonna avoid it like the plague I think. Cause that is a ridiculous statement.









~Ceadder


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What store is it? I'ma gonna avoid it like the plague I think. Cause that is a ridiculous statement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


highflow.nl

I'm just curious how Alphacool is going to react. no word from them yet in the Alphacool thread
I saw Aquatuning reps there...Aquatuning is Alphacool, right?


----------



## eXe.Lilith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> I'm just curious how Alphacool is going to react. no word from them yet in the Alphacool thread
> I saw Aquatuning reps there...Aquatuning is Alphacool, right?


Yep that's right.

I've also had problems with highflow in the past, never ever will I purchase there again. Everybody should avoid that shop like cancer.


----------



## jooopaaa

Still a bit WIP, but postable


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jooopaaa*
> 
> Still a bit WIP, but postable


White and green, my favorite!







Great build, what case is that? Really unique.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jooopaaa*
> 
> Still a bit WIP, but postable


That looks awesome







!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jooopaaa*
> 
> Still a bit WIP, but postable


Ridiculous. I love the retro-modern vibe. I'd like to see a backplate on GPU though.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/106420092-post49.html
> http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/106420105-post50.html
> http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/106420138-post51.html
> 
> waterblocks at half the price.


Fake. Counterfeit. Garbage.

I've seen too many failed polished welds to mistake smooth machining for durability.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Fake. Counterfeit. Garbage.
> 
> I've seen too many failed polished welds to mistake smooth machining for durability.


This.

Good luck with a Chinese warranty.


----------



## Kimir

Chinese, warranty? no such thing.


----------



## VSG

Eh, if you manage to get it installed and not leak it's probably okay. I did open up the Bykski GPU block here and it's well made. That said, given the hoops to jump through to even get one for customers in North America/Europe, warranty was probably never a factor.


----------



## eXe.Lilith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jooopaaa*
> 
> Still a bit WIP, but postable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White and green, my favorite!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great build, *what case is that? Really unique.*
Click to expand...

Second that, really interested in the case. Looks freakin awesome.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

S Frame is coming along....


----------



## Kimir

^Sweet!


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> yep pretty crappy, that`s why I went with heatkiller for 1080ti, cheaper, looks better, and cools better.


I have Heatkiller IV cpu and gpu blocks and you can see the machining on the HK4 CPU block, but the GPU block is much more polished in comparison to the EK block. But if machining marks = bad, why are the two CPU blocks (HK4 and Supremacy Evo) neck and neck for performance? Same for GPU blocks?

As for cheaper, I am also not sure how you got to that conclusion? Heatkiller 1080 GPU block is $135 on Amazon compared to EK at $130 as of today and this post. As far as performance, just about every reputable website has EK and Heatkiller so close that they are within the margin of error for testing.







Again, I am a huge fan of Heatkiller and have their blocks exclusively in my build and I agree they look better (which is 100% subjective and not a measurement we can expect everyone to agree with) but your claims on being cheaper and cooling better, as you can see above, aren't in line with real-world data. The GPU blocks are within the margin of error of each other, and so are the CPU blocks. Pricing is also pretty much identical between the two.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I actually bought a couple ek fc1080 blocks and was going to switch from my 980's until I saw them in person. Sold them off and will get some 1080ti blocks from someone else soon. My kryographics blocks really blew me away when I saw them in person, I think watercool really nailed it lately though


Kyrographics is made by Aquacomputer, not Watercool. Easy to confuse the two, but they are very different companies. Check out the Heatkiller club responses to customer issues versus the Aquacomputer thread to see the differences I am talking about. They make a beautiful block, though!


----------



## failwheeldrive

Got the 1080 ti under water yesterday. Really happy with temps and preliminary overclocking


----------



## emsj86

Build looks good. Are you using glass tubing ?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Thanks! No I'm still running acrylic. I planned on going with glass when I was planning the build, but I'm waiting until I'm sure I won't want any hardware changes for a while.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> S Frame is coming along....


Are those custom made @EK from colored acrylic? Pretty cool.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> Kyrographics is made by Aquacomputer, not Watercool. Easy to confuse the two, but they are very different companies. Check out the Heatkiller club responses to customer issues versus the Aquacomputer thread to see the differences I am talking about. They make a beautiful block, though!


That was a poorly worded sentence on my part. I meant to contrast my reactions to my ek blocks and my kryographics blocks. Watercool will be my next stop I think. Though I'll be checking them out a bit first since I have yet to use any of their products. I haven't really dug through either of those threads, I'll take a look at them


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> That was a poorly worded sentence on my part. I meant to contrast my reactions to my ek blocks and my kryographics blocks. Watercool will be my next stop I think. Though I'll be checking them out a bit first since I have yet to use any of their products. I haven't really dug through either of those threads, I'll take a look at them


You won't be disappointed with either.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> That was a poorly worded sentence on my part. I meant to contrast my reactions to my ek blocks and my kryographics blocks. Watercool will be my next stop I think. Though I'll be checking them out a bit first since I have yet to use any of their products. I haven't really dug through either of those threads, I'll take a look at them


Keep in mind Aquacomputer and Aquatuning are not the same company either.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just picked up an 8gb XFX RX 480 RS. Anyone know if EK 480 block will mate to it? I checked their site and prior to their changeover it was not listed in configurator. Now their configurator doesn't list it, but it allows one to email their techs.

It's a Reference card. So I'm hoping I can do it like any other Reference card or if it can be modded to fit I would even do that if I had to to get this OC card under water.









So any input past the standard configurator reply would be gladly welcomed.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*


If I said what I really wanted to I would get a friendly PM telling me profanity is not allowed on this website.. So...

Good on you dude! This is great. One of the better 909 builds I have seen!! Im normally not a fan on white liquid but this sold me! Stellar!


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> If I said what I really wanted to I would get a friendly PM telling me profanity is not allowed on this website.. So...
> 
> Good on you dude! This is great. One of the better 909 builds I have seen!! Im normally not a fan on white liquid but this sold me! Stellar!


Haha appreciate it man, means a lot considering how many amazing 909s there have been. The white coolant wasn't planned. It originally had blue pastel, but I flushed and replaced the coolant when I rebuilt the loop recently. I just used white as a base, but I decided to stick with it before dying it back to the OG color. I think this system from way back in 2011 is why I like monochrome builds so much: https://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2011/murderbox-mk2/murderbox-mk2.htm


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just picked up an 8gb XFX RX 480 RS. Anyone know if EK 480 block will mate to it? I checked their site and prior to their changeover it was not listed in configurator. Now their configurator doesn't list it, but it allows one to email their techs.
> 
> It's a Reference card. So I'm hoping I can do it like any other Reference card or if it can be modded to fit I would even do that if I had to to get this OC card under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So any input past the standard configurator reply would be gladly welcomed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Which model/ref # is the card? So far I checked all the 8GB model RS's on EK's configurator and none are reference pcb's


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Are those custom made @EK from colored acrylic? Pretty cool.


No,these are stock tops that I painted.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> I have Heatkiller IV cpu and gpu blocks and you can see the machining on the HK4 CPU block, but the GPU block is much more polished in comparison to the EK block. But if machining marks = bad, why are the two CPU blocks (HK4 and Supremacy Evo) neck and neck for performance? Same for GPU blocks?
> 
> As for cheaper, I am also not sure how you got to that conclusion? Heatkiller 1080 GPU block is $135 on Amazon compared to EK at $130 as of today and this post. As far as performance, just about every reputable website has EK and Heatkiller so close that they are within the margin of error for testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I am a huge fan of Heatkiller and have their blocks exclusively in my build and I agree they look better (which is 100% subjective and not a measurement we can expect everyone to agree with) but your claims on being cheaper and cooling better, as you can see above, aren't in line with real-world data. The GPU blocks are within the margin of error of each other, and so are the CPU blocks. Pricing is also pretty much identical between the two.
> Kyrographics is made by Aquacomputer, not Watercool. Easy to confuse the two, but they are very different companies. Check out the Heatkiller club responses to customer issues versus the Aquacomputer thread to see the differences I am talking about. They make a beautiful block, though!


Look at the reviews, it performs better, TPU aint the only site with comparisons, in EU ek 1080ti block is 112€ ( usually acetal blocks were 99€ aswell, but EK decided to milk people with 1080ti release, heatkiller is 99€ so yes it`s cheaper.
I also think that waterblocks are heavily overpriced to begin with, no wonder everyones doing it, it`s like printing money, 100€+ +for some metal and some acetal, okay then...


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I also think that waterblocks are heavily overpriced to begin with, no wonder everyones doing it, it`s like printing money, 100€+ +for some metal and some acetal, okay then...


Completely agree







but damn do they look good!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I also think that waterblocks are heavily overpriced to begin with, no wonder everyones doing it, it`s like printing money, 100€+ +for some metal and some acetal, okay then...


Sure, we just throw a piece of metal into the left side of the machine and five minutes later the fully assembled block falls out at the right side














Well, and this is also only a rough insight that only shows the interesting parts. There is much more going on in the background. We could also start to debate that some of these machines cost more than a family house, employees do not work for free and so on


----------



## ruffhi

Excellent video ... I loved the little dots that looked like counter sinks ... the metal just seemed to disappear when the drill(?) head wasn't even close.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Sure, we just throw a piece of metal into the left side of the machine and five minutes later the fully assembled block falls out at the right side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, and this is also only a rough insight that only shows the interesting parts. There is much more going on in the background. We could also start to debate that some of these machines cost more than a family house, employees do not work for free and so on


No, I undertand that everything costs money during the process, and I have used watercooling for years, but I would really appreciate if it would cost less.
If you are someone who likes to change GPU-s often, those fullcover waterblocks really add up, over the years.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ever tried buying copper in the same thickness that waterblocks use? Ever find.out how much it.would.cost just for one to be milled to the exacting tolerances that EK and any other company provides on site? Labor.and energy costs play a hand in how much a block costs they cost the correct amount commensurate with the price of supplies, power and labor.









~Ceadder


----------



## Solonowarion

Not to mention that there is a relatively small amount of these sold due to being such a niche market. They would be a lot cheaper if there were millions being sold each month.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> No, I undertand that everything costs money during the process, and I have used watercooling for years, but I would really appreciate if it would cost less.
> If you are someone who likes to change GPU-s often, those fullcover waterblocks really add up, over the years.


Try a core only block with VRM/VRAM heatsinks then.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i wasnt going to but, yep, im going to.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Sure, we just throw a piece of metal into the left side of the machine and five minutes later the fully assembled block falls out at the right side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, and this is also only a rough insight that only shows the interesting parts. There is much more going on in the background. We could also start to debate that some of these machines cost more than a family house, employees do not work for free and so on


someone writes a program for the block then the top. proof run it. make sure tooling stays sharp between cycles. it isnt hard or that time consuming.
cost of machines and employees are part of owning and running a business. dont forget the owners fat paycheck, too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> No, I undertand that everything costs money during the process, and I have used watercooling for years, but I would really appreciate if it would cost less.
> If you are someone who likes to change GPU-s often, those fullcover waterblocks really add up, over the years.


we would all appreciate it but you know, porsches dont just show up in garages magically.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ever tried buying copper in the same thickness that waterblocks use? Ever find.out how much it.would.cost just for one to be milled to the exacting tolerances that EK and any other company provides on site? Labor.and energy costs play a hand in how much a block costs they cost the correct amount commensurate with the price of supplies, power and labor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


bs. stop trying to sit in his damned lap.
'exacting tolerances" my rear. im a machinist. i program cnc fadals. yes old cnc machining centers. i work with tighter tolerances than ek or any other block maker can dream about.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Not to mention that there is a relatively small amount of these sold due to being such a niche market. They would be a lot cheaper if there were millions being sold each month.


sadly they only sell enough to keep employees showing up and the owner owning. if they were cheaper, a lot more people would be water cooling.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

People need to stop complaining how much things cost and start getting a job. This is a watercooling board in an overclocking forum.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I also think that waterblocks are heavily overpriced to begin with, no wonder everyones doing it, it`s like printing money, 100€+ +for some metal and some acetal, okay then...
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, we just throw a piece of metal into the left side of the machine and five minutes later the fully assembled block falls out at the right side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, and this is also only a rough insight that only shows the interesting parts. There is much more going on in the background. We could also start to debate that some of these machines cost more than a family house, employees do not work for free and so on
Click to expand...

The laser engraving was really cool. I've seen some video of blocks being made before, but never the lasers


----------



## wholeeo

Well here's my build,


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ever tried buying copper in the same thickness that waterblocks use? Ever find.out how much it.would.cost just for one to be milled to the exacting tolerances that EK and any other company provides on site? Labor.and energy costs play a hand in how much a block costs they cost the correct amount commensurate with the price of supplies, power and labor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bs. stop trying to sit in his damned lap.
> 'exacting tolerances" my rear. im a machinist. i program cnc fadals. yes old cnc machining centers. i work with tighter tolerances than ek or any other block maker.
> 
> sadly they only sell enough to keep employees showing up and the owner owning. if they were cheaper, a lot more people would be water cooling.
Click to expand...

First off...

Exactly *whose* lap am I trying to sit in?









I was speaking of the market in general. Nobody specifically. But whatevs.

Secondly don't talk to me (or anybody else here for that matter) like we don't have a background. My uncle ran his own shop for *decades*, not years. Working on exotics as well as high end domestics. Ferrari, Porsche, Cadillac etc. I,ve seen the V12 Cadillac motor that he rebuilt from the ground up using nothing but the block and blueprints to get it back to spec.

His thoughts on this subject were "If you have the knowledge and the equipment, then charge what you're worth; not what people believe it should be. If it were easy then everybody would do it and you would charge less and not remain in business long."

The man did everything manually right up til this past July when he passed on.

So what if you're a genius with Autocad machining. As said previously, this is a niche market and as such the prices remain high. Maybe block tolerances aren't as tight as you work with. So the eff what? If you think you can do better for cheaper, then do something about it and drop the gloves to the dirt and get your hands dirty. I for one would love to pay less money for good watercooling gear. I don't owe anyone allegiances in any way. I like EK gear because it's nice and because I like a quality look in my builds. They don't pay me a dime.

You haven't refuted my stance on the cost of materials. Copper and acrylic is not cheap. Neither is Acetal. Could the prices be better? Sure. But prices will not come down unless manufacturers can get bulk prices on large lots. EK for one doesn't do enough business to get the batch of copper that it would require to bring down the prices to your satisfaction I'd wager. So do something about it if you know better than the rest of us enthusiasts. Until then, you're all talk no hat.









~Ceadder


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all









Placed my order with PPCs last night

I will be adding a GPU block as soon as EK makes them available, I just want to make sure I am not missing anything major. (liquid I will be getting locally with EK additives)

6x Be Quiet SILENT WINGS 3
8x Bitspower Black Sparkle For OD 16MM Adapter
Bitspower Silicon Bending Cord
Bitspower Non-champher Crystal Link 16mm (4m)
EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor
Monsoon Mandrel Kit (16mm)
Hardware Labs 360GTR
Hardware Labs 240GTS
HEATKILLER® Tube 200 D5 (with multiport top and mounting stand)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Backplates...

Still need a hell of a lot of clear coat to finish


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Wow, now I feel rich... I had no idea that ~$100 was a lot of money in this hobby.









If you want to moan and cry over costs of something... how about fittings... a ball-valve now costs 35% of what one of those blocks costs and requires no machining at all... and the little dragon isn't even laser etched! And the paint comes off if you drop them more than 3 inches. Still haven't done a build yet where I didn't have close to $300 in fittings... and I don't make dual-loop monsters with quad GPUs... I'll bet some of these builds have close to $1K in fittings alone!

Complaining about the cost of a waterblock designed to cool a GPU which in many cases (Titans for example) can be over $1K by itself... and some people throw 2-3 of them in one system. It's like crying about a twin turbo setup for a $50K car costing $10K (which they do if they're decently complete setups).

Cool vid by the way Shoggy...









I guess buying a seven-figure assembly line doesn't count and you should sell the resulting product for materials cost (and while you're at it pay all the employees so little that they wind up crying about how they can't afford the blocks they helped to manufacture). SMH


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Wow, now I feel rich... I had no idea that ~$100 was a lot of money in this hobby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to moan and cry over costs of something... how about fittings... a ball-valve now costs 35% of what one of those blocks costs and requires no machining at all... and the little dragon isn't even laser etched! And the paint comes off if you drop them more than 3 inches. Still haven't done a build yet where I didn't have close to $300 in fittings... and I don't make dual-loop monsters with quad GPUs... I'll bet some of these builds have close to $1K in fittings alone!
> 
> Complaining about the cost of a waterblock designed to cool a GPU which in many cases (Titans for example) can be over $1K by itself... and some people throw 2-3 of them in one system. It's like crying about a twin turbo setup for a $50K car costing $10K (which they do if they're decently complete setups).
> 
> Cool vid by the way Shoggy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess buying a seven-figure assembly line doesn't count and you should sell the resulting product for materials cost (and while you're at it pay all the employees so little that they wind up crying about how they can't afford the blocks they helped to manufacture). SMH


Yeah, I agree. Water-cooling in general is not for those who are frugal. I've got a somewhat high-end loop planned, and in fittings alone I'm looking at maybe $400 in fittings. And maybe $150+ in tubing. I spent as much/more in fittings and tubing as I did on blocks lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

I felt like I got a steal when I got my 1080's EK acetal/nickel block & back plate for $100 lol. But in all total card and block I paid less than retail for just the card by itself. And yes there are alot of other things I could've spent that money on but money already went towards what it needed to so I got to treat myself for once.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I agree with him that it can add up... however, if you're changing GPUs that often... then the depreciation on each GPU itself is likely to be more than $100 unless you're buying budget cards - in which case you'd have to stay on air because they don't make blocks for $100 GPUs.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Wow, now I feel rich... I had no idea that ~$100 was a lot of money in this hobby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to moan and cry over costs of something... how about fittings... a ball-valve now costs 35% of what one of those blocks costs and requires no machining at all... and the little dragon isn't even laser etched! And the paint comes off if you drop them more than 3 inches. Still haven't done a build yet where I didn't have close to $300 in fittings... and I don't make dual-loop monsters with quad GPUs... I'll bet some of these builds have close to $1K in fittings alone!
> 
> Complaining about the cost of a waterblock designed to cool a GPU which in many cases (Titans for example) can be over $1K by itself... and some people throw 2-3 of them in one system. It's like crying about a twin turbo setup for a $50K car costing $10K (which they do if they're decently complete setups).
> 
> Cool vid by the way Shoggy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess buying a seven-figure assembly line doesn't count and you should sell the resulting product for materials cost (and while you're at it pay all the employees so little that they wind up crying about how they can't afford the blocks they helped to manufacture). SMH


Agreed, i have a bunch of bitspower fittings in mine and those little suckers creep up on you. Just the drain valve assembly in the rear chamber cost me $100 total. I spent about a grand on this custom loop and i've only got 1 GPU and 1 pump/res. Watercooling is not for the faint of heart that's for sure, i think the GPU blocks are priced as they should be, the fittings i wish were half the price though. However you do get a little better quality in terms of leak protection with bitspower fittings, they're the only ones i've used which hasn't leaked at the O-ring yet, EK has leaked on me, swiftech, and so has barrow. I"m talking about the 90 degree fittings, where it rotates, that's the weak link to it. Bitspower has been the only one that was good to me, so im paying a little more for them.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Agreed, i have a bunch of bitspower fittings in mine and those little suckers creep up on you. Just the drain valve assembly in the rear chamber cost me $100 total. I spent about a grand on this custom loop and i've only got 1 GPU and 1 pump/res. Watercooling is not for the faint of heart that's for sure, i think the GPU blocks are priced as they should be, the fittings i wish were half the price though. However you do get a little better quality in terms of leak protection with bitspower fittings, they're the only ones i've used which hasn't leaked at the O-ring yet, EK has leaked on me, swiftech, and so has barrow. I"m talking about the 90 degree fittings, where it rotates, that's the weak link to it. Bitspower has been the only one that was good to me, so im paying a little more for them.


I've had two dual rotaries from BP leak on me - one out of the box (which did get replaced - to their credit) and one which only lasted a year.

Like anything they all have QC 'hiccups' - but I agree that, for the most part, you get what you pay for. Just don't see the value in paying 50%+ markup for an annodized color or for a "chrome" handle that's just painted plastic.









So far I've tried the same as you and Swiftech was definitely the worst - even compared to Barrow! But maybe I just got a bad batch or something. Any mass produced part is bound to have issues from time to time but that was a bit of a disaster... of course, that could be the reason they were on sale for such a great price.


----------



## Nighthog

Built this together the last week as parts arrived. Some salvage some new.



Water installed yesterday after work. Had some horrendous water leaks with the PCIE-slot adapter before I got it installed correctly.

A Ryzen computer from the piles of dead eating up some older things to create some new monstrosities.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I like the retro vibes of the case and psu, also I really like the idea of mounting oversized rads externally, too bad I never decided to use any, I kept complaining about the restrictive airflow of all the cases instead


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Wow, now I feel rich... I had no idea that ~$100 was a lot of money in this hobby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to moan and cry over costs of something... how about fittings... a ball-valve now costs 35% of what one of those blocks costs and requires no machining at all... and the little dragon isn't even laser etched! And the paint comes off if you drop them more than 3 inches. Still haven't done a build yet where I didn't have close to $300 in fittings... and I don't make dual-loop monsters with quad GPUs... I'll bet some of these builds have close to $1K in fittings alone!
> 
> Complaining about the cost of a waterblock designed to cool a GPU which in many cases (Titans for example) can be over $1K by itself... and some people throw 2-3 of them in one system. It's like crying about a twin turbo setup for a $50K car costing $10K (which they do if they're decently complete setups).
> 
> Cool vid by the way Shoggy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess buying a seven-figure assembly line doesn't count and you should sell the resulting product for materials cost (and while you're at it pay all the employees so little that they wind up crying about how they can't afford the blocks they helped to manufacture). SMH


I find it laughable when someone complains about the price of an Enthusiast part. Regardless of what it is.

Why? Because they likely purchase Enthusiast computer parts that were cooled just fine on air but they want to watercool them anyway. If you have entry level stuffs then okay fine, the complaint is understandable. But if you're on Enthusiast Class components then it's up to you whether you stay on air or go water. I tend to go with water over all else not because I can afford it but because I am spoiled by good temp values above all else. I'm a broke azz who buys quality whenever possible. I will piece a loop together over a broader span of time than most. 6mos to a year. No XSPC. No (except for my 6870 heatsinks and Rad Brackets) Swiftech. No more Enzotech and Fer danged sure no Thermalfake. I ain't complaining one bit. This is not a hobby for the faint of heart. Only way prices will come down is with market saturation. That's how prices for everything comes down. That's how exotic car manufacturers can ask so much for a high end car. There is no way the water cooling market will achieve market saturation so there we are. The prices will remain "high".









I should be able to pull the trigger on my 480 block this week. I work a MW job and build systems in my spare time. I don't charge a lot for building systems unless I'm modding. Which almost never happens atm. So I mod my systems and stick to the formula that works for me. I get rather perturbed when I see the kind of petulance over the cost of a block. If I were to add up all the watercooling parts I have purchased over the last four years, I could probably have built and sold a couple of Enthusiast builds or 4 budget builds. So IME, people should stop complaining or simply stop watercooling if it gets to that point.









~Ceadder


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Sure, we just throw a piece of metal into the left side of the machine and five minutes later the fully assembled block falls out at the right side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, and this is also only a rough insight that only shows the interesting parts. There is much more going on in the background. We could also start to debate that some of these machines cost more than a family house, employees do not work for free and so on


A whole house? Some of the mass production ones that can do multiple parts at once and come equipped with rotary ATC's and/or the ability to use two tools at once on a single piece cost as much as a house in Vancouver!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Placed my order with PPCs last night
> 
> I will be adding a GPU block as soon as EK makes them available, I just want to make sure I am not missing anything major. (liquid I will be getting locally with EK additives)
> 
> 6x Be Quiet SILENT WINGS 3
> 8x Bitspower Black Sparkle For OD 16MM Adapter
> Bitspower Silicon Bending Cord
> Bitspower Non-champher Crystal Link 16mm (4m)
> EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor
> Monsoon Mandrel Kit (16mm)
> Hardware Labs 360GTR
> Hardware Labs 240GTS
> HEATKILLER® Tube 200 D5 (with multiport top and mounting stand)


why buy beQuiet fans and then buy GTR radiator? Those radiators are designed for high RPM fans. Also just be warned GTS are very flow restrictive.

Kudos on the Heatkiller res, One best res looking & constructed res out their.

You might want to add a drain somewhere in the loop.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> why buy beQuiet fans and then buy GTR radiator? Those radiators are designed for high RPM fans. Also just be warned GTS are very flow restrictive.
> 
> Kudos on the Heatkiller res, One best res looking & constructed res out their.
> 
> You might want to add a drain somewhere in the loop.


The fans I took are the high speed PWM which can run up to 2200rpm

I want to add the drain but I need to get the case first and plan the loop layout ... still waiting for Parvum to deliver.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The cost is all relative to expectation,some see the value,some dont.

However, cost-wise blocks have been stable in pricing for a while now, the process is not a 5 min job. You are not just paying for the block,you are also paying for the development of new technologies in this field.
You can apply this to all enthusiast PC products.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The cost is all relative to expectation,some see the value,some dont.
> 
> However, cost-wise blocks have been stable in pricing for a while now, the process is not a 5 min job. You are not just paying for the block,you are also paying for the development of new technologies in this field.
> You can apply this to all enthusiast PC products.


Maybe EK can make a budget line of GPUblocks with the same performance but no visual flair, like the MX CPU block. It can have the same base, to eliminate extra CAD work, but with a solid acetal top. Most blocks are installed upside down anyway. I have a gorgeous Aquacomputer Kryographics block but all I can see is the ugly green PCB.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Maybe EK can make a budget line of GPUblocks with the same performance but no visual flair, like the MX CPU block. It can have the same base, to eliminate extra CAD work, but with a solid acetal top. Most blocks are installed upside down anyway. I have a gorgeous Aquacomputer Kryographics block but all I can see is the ugly green PCB.


Same base but acetal top.... Pardon the sarcasm, but don't they already sell such blocks?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The cost is all relative to expectation,some see the value,some dont.
> 
> However, cost-wise blocks have been stable in pricing for a while now, the process is not a 5 min job. You are not just paying for the block,you are also paying for the development of new technologies in this field.
> You can apply this to all enthusiast PC products.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe EK can make a budget line of GPUblocks with the same performance but no visual flair, like the MX CPU block. It can have the same base, to eliminate extra CAD work, but with a solid acetal top. Most blocks are installed upside down anyway. I have a gorgeous Aquacomputer Kryographics block but all I can see is the ugly green PCB.
Click to expand...

They already do. They're called Thermosphere.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Maybe EK can make a budget line of GPUblocks with the same performance but no visual flair, like the MX CPU block. It can have the same base, to eliminate extra CAD work, but with a solid acetal top. Most blocks are installed upside down anyway. I have a gorgeous Aquacomputer Kryographics block but all I can see is the ugly green PCB.


Wait and see........


----------



## VSG

Hmmm.. Pricing being _the_ priority for products would be nice.


----------



## feznz

It is funny when you stop working part time at MacDonalds and get a real full time job, water blocks prices scale to 5 hours work for me, instead of 20+ hours of slave labour.
Which in reality is impossible to design and build a full cover water block in that time frame let alone access to CNC mills then you still got to build the block top.
Actually I had looked into buying copper bar stock at one point in time and the 100mm x 12mm x 300mm or anything even close to that size in copper flat bar
is very hard to obtain in suitable sizes, I suspect that it is almost a special size that water block manufactures have made to order.
Copper buzz bar is normally available in 50mm x 12mm x 6000mm and relatively inexpensive but a totally useless size for water block manufacture


----------



## Ceadderman

20 hours of slave labor? You think I make $5hr? And my job isn't slave labor work. What'sit matter anyway? I have a job, it keeps a roof over my family's heads and I can do whatever I want within reason. If I want a new block, I save up for it. It's attitudes like yours is why there is a gap in blue collar applicants. What a little sweat will kill you?







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## paskowitz

Solution to high prices... buy used. I got a 780 Classy block, tubing, and 10 fittings for $70 here​ on OCN.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Solution to high prices... buy used. I got a 780 Classy block, tubing, and 10 fittings for $70 here on OCN.


True, but the nightmare of getting the correct thickness thermal pads for the VRMs and stuff can be a headache.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> True, but the nightmare of getting the correct thickness thermal pads for the VRMs and stuff can be a headache.


RTFM







and if you really want to go there a digital caliper. All my fujipoly pads have been consistent.

I had an issue because I used the stock backplate and it didn't clamp down hard enough. I thought it was the pads, but since I put a dot of TIM on them I could tell it was the mounting. Fixing that dropped my temps by a ~2C.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Solution to high prices... *buy used.* I got a 780 Classy block, tubing, and 10 fittings for $70 here on OCN.












just grabbed block and backplate for my 980ti for $62 w/shipping on fleabay to swap out my uniblock. though it came with everything (inc. pads) went overkill the amount needed for on thermal pads for another $12.

i'd be happier if i didn't remember i was thinking of selling the card in a few months.









which brings me to ask if anyone has used *gelid pads*? cheaped out on those since ~2/3 the price of fujipoly.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 20 hours of slave labor? You think I make $5hr? And my job isn't slave labor work. What'sit matter anyway? I have a job, it keeps a roof over my family's heads and I can do whatever I want within reason. If I want a new block, I save up for it. It's attitudes like yours is why there is a gap in blue collar applicants. What a little sweat will kill you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


The comment wasn't aimed at anyone just a water block is not that expensive when you consider what it takes to make one.
They are expensive when you have a minimum wage job.
FYI sometimes I literally shovel S#!T (technically effluent solids) for a job sometimes having to change overalls 2-3 times a day
Actually I held my employers to ransom when it came to salary talks and turned down 3 offers when I was negotiating an employment contract and negotiated a wage that was higher than my branch manager's salary.
It is called know your worth and don't complain if you don't


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 20 hours of slave labor? You think I make $5hr? And my job isn't slave labor work. What'sit matter anyway? I have a job, it keeps a roof over my family's heads and I can do whatever I want within reason. If I want a new block, I save up for it. It's attitudes like yours is why there is a gap in blue collar applicants. What a little sweat will kill you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The comment wasn't aimed at anyone just a water block is not that expensive when you consider what it takes to make one.
> They are expensive when you have a minimum wage job.
> FYI sometimes I literally shovel S#!T (technically effluent solids) for a job sometimes having to change overalls 2-3 times a day
> Actually I held my employers to ransom when it came to salary talks and turned down 3 offers when I was negotiating an employment contract and negotiated a wage that was higher than my branch manager's salary.
> It is called know your worth and don't complain if you don't
Click to expand...

Ahh'kay. I took it the wrong way and that's my bad. I'm glad you got things worked out in your favor. Not alot of us MW guys do.









That's why I work so hard building up my reputation in my area. Eventually opening my own shop and only working that for me and my family. It's a rural area and word of mouth and flyers posted on bulletin boards is how I get my clients. I just started working with a fellow who is a console gamer who wants to be a PC gamer with a reasonable system built strictly for gaming but on a budget. But he also wants to get some more work done on his Sleeve. He's got a reasonably nice start in on that so he's waiting for his taxes to get back before he makes up his mind as how best to proceed.









You know which way I am pulling for but we shall see.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

If there is something to complain about the would be thermal pad pricing. Get a used ram block for 40 end up paying more for the thermal pads that I had to buy that originally come with the part. Pricing for parts is not too bad in my opinion. First it's not needed so it's a luxury to be able to water cool. Second knowledge is also what factors into pricing. For example everyone thinks everything g should cost nothing in my field (refrigeration) but it's the knowledge you are paying. If it was easy everyone would do it.


----------



## FXformat

This is the first time i'm using a glass reservoir, but dyed coolant look way different through acrylic tubing than it does through my glass reservoir. Totally different shade of blue, pretty disappointed, think i'll be draining it, flushing out the loop and redoing with clear.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> This is the first time i'm using a glass reservoir, but dyed coolant look way different through acrylic tubing than it does through my glass reservoir. Totally different shade of blue, pretty disappointed, think i'll be draining it, flushing out the loop and redoing with clear.


The glass reservoir should be the closer to realistic view of the coolant. The tubes are likely what's changing the way things look.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> The glass reservoir should be the closer to realistic view of the coolant. The tubes are likely what's changing the way things look.


Yeah i figure that much, but didn't think it would be so drastic. Tried to get it on camera, in person it looks 10x worse, lighting sucks right now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Glass is the reason why I went with the AquaComputer Aqualis 450 Pro. Extremely well made res and easy to clean anytime I need to service the loop - and hard to stain.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Glass is the reason why I went with the AquaComputer Aqualis 450 Pro. Extremely well made res and easy to clean anytime I need to service the loop - and hard to stain.


I'm looking at getting one of those heat-shrinked tube DDC combo units. That's glass too. That and glass tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Yeah i figure that much, but didn't think it would be so drastic. Tried to get it on camera, in person it looks 10x worse, lighting sucks right now.


Holy crap the difference there is insane.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'm looking at getting one of those heat-shrinked tube DDC combo units. That's glass too. That and glass tubing.
> Holy crap the difference there is insane.


Took the glass front off and took a pic, this is what it looks like when i look at it, much much worse...lol, going back to clear tomorrow


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Took the glass front off and took a pic, this is what it looks like when i look at it, much much worse...lol, going back to clear tomorrow
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't think it's the glass that is making the coolant color appear so drastically different.
acrylic reservoirs do the same - make the coolant appear darker when running colored "clear" coolant.

The main reason for color variation is the different diameters of the reservoirs and tubes.
The res having larger diameter has a greater "density" of the fluid allowing less light to pass through making the coolant appear darker.

Having a black panel in the background exaggerates the difference.

More lighting is the only way to trackle the issue if want to keep the colored coolant.
behind the res and perhaps even in-res lighting.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahh'kay. I took it the wrong way and that's my bad. I'm glad you got things worked out in your favor. Not alot of us MW guys do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I work so hard building up my reputation in my area. Eventually opening my own shop and only working that for me and my family. It's a rural area and word of mouth and flyers posted on bulletin boards is how I get my clients. I just started working with a fellow who is a console gamer who wants to be a PC gamer with a reasonable system built strictly for gaming but on a budget. But he also wants to get some more work done on his Sleeve. He's got a reasonably nice start in on that so he's waiting for his taxes to get back before he makes up his mind as how best to proceed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know which way I am pulling for but we shall see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Honestly I have come across many very talented underpaid blue collar workers that seem happy to work for what the employer can screw them down to.

But I have a question I didn't understand sleeve work, do you work on PC cabling?

I have been think I like the look of big fat power cables like this


Why couldn't I join the GPU power cables together? I imagine if I were using a single rail PSU then I could join all the 12v+ and 12v- wires together at the PSU then split them at the GPU 6 and 8 pin plug
would there be any issues? when I see power I imagine fat power cables like 10mm² or 16mm² fat with clear PVC coating.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Honestly I have come across many very talented underpaid blue collar workers that seem happy to work for what the employer can screw them down to.
> 
> But I have a question I didn't understand sleeve work, do you work on PC cabling?
> 
> I have been think I like the look of big fat power cables like this
> 
> 
> Why couldn't I join the GPU power cables together? I imagine if I were using a single rail PSU then I could join all the 12v+ and 12v- wires together at the PSU then split them at the GPU 6 and 8 pin plug
> would there be any issues? when I see power I imagine fat power cables like 10mm² or 16mm² fat with clear PVC coating.


If there is enough power on a single rail, you're fine.

Coming from a blue-collar electrician







(With some electrical engineering background as well) Actually a lot of modern PSU's already do this, including my own. I have four GPU connectors. Two of my cables for them come off as 8-pins, to a connector. At the connector, the wires are parallel to a second connector. So one cable to the GPU has two 6+2 pin connectors on it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah ummm no. What you're missing is each cable runs from pcb an that runs to caps. Each cap carries a specific voltage/amperage (ampere) that can be blown when overloaded. Then some go back to coils that control frequency. Then finally comes the rail which splits off each channel of power. Not that I am any PSU genius. There are many facets of the modern PSU that I either lack or do not understand.

One thing I do know however is +:+/-:-.

Meaning that you cannot mix a + with a - channel. Doing so would likely overload the card. If you've noticed the fairly recent 8pin GPU cables that come with some PSUs (such as Seasonic) they are 6pin+2s. Those are grounds if I am not mistaken. They are strictly grounds and come of one or more ground channels. I'm not entirely certain mind you because the ones I have dealt with were all black cabling. Difficult to tell unless you're working with them on a regular basis. But mixing cables with any expectation of flawless operation is a fool's errand IMHO.

You could still run a fatter cable , however your best bet is to go up one size and they will look beefy but there is zero chance of risking damage because you're running 1 for 1. For every + you replace it with a + and likewise for -.

No matter the color of your wire, since most modern PSU in the Enthusiast class run all black wire cables. So piece one out and replace it immediately. Don't allow yourself to be distracted and take your time.

Another way to go about it is to search for ATX pinouts on Google. You'll find a variety of pinout colors. But the ones you want to pay attention to are the ones where each channel is labeled as to what they are. So -5v remains -5v and so on.

Mind you I am certainly no Power Pro but this is the general gist of what I do know without actually speaking face to face. In a face to face I can correct myself or expand on things that I forget to cover or even clarify given the







quizzical look that one may have.









~Ceadder


----------



## DrFreeman35

Love when you try to read interesting topics or ideas, just to get it mixed in with petty arguments. PM's are a useful thing......


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 7 figure assembly line? we arent talking about gm or ford here.
> ...
> you can all say what you want but the truth is, the prices are what they are because people pay it.


If you believe that an automaker's assembly line can be done for 7 figures (or even low 9 figures...) then that explains a great deal.









As far as your final point... EXACTLY! That's a free market. I know people that do my same job for less than half my salary, but that doesn't mean I'm willing to accept a pay cut.

Back on topic... latest build is basically done, although I'm a bit underwhelmed with the D5 even at 100%... might have to go dual pumps. It "feels" like it's about half of a single DDC. I understand it has less head pressure, but didn't expect it to be that low (unless I have a problem with mine). Still have to do my shrouds to cover the cable mess but it's under water and has an OS now so I'll call it basically done at this point:


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Back on topic... latest build is basically done, although I'm a bit underwhelmed with the D5 even at 100%... might have to go dual pumps. It "feels" like it's about half of a single DDC. I understand it has less head pressure, but didn't expect it to be that low (unless I have a problem with mine). Still have to do my shrouds to cover the cable mess but it's under water and has an OS now so I'll call it basically done at this point:


Are you able to verify the speed via pwm header? If you are just bleeding it with no power to the PC and it's a pwm D5 it will only run at ~60%, it requires a pwm signal to run higher than that. Complete opposite of the DDC, which runs at 100% without a pwm signal.


----------



## Trestles126

I didn't realize we took cost into consideration when building PCs?! I'm just a blue collar crane operator that lives in So Cal that works his butt off. When I want something I buy it. That of coarse after my wife kid and mortgage aren't affected.

Since I'm on my last day of a 68 day straight 12 hour shift job my S8 should be finished up soon. Can't wait to have more time in my life other than working and sleeping

The 600 square ft master bed/bath/dining add on we're finishing up on the house makes my pc feel like a bubble ball machine purchase anyways.


----------



## DrFreeman35

Edit: For the Children


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Typical response from a child who pretends to be an adult on the internet. I will leave you to your pathetic desire for attention.


triggered and totally unable to converse. the internet is not a safe space. if you dont want to see others opinions or facts, a forum is not a place for you. however, if you understand people have opinions and people know facts, its a great place. dont expect everyone to nod their head in agreement with anything you say. thats not the way the big world works. also, still not adding anything to the thread except another post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I didn't realize we took cost into consideration when building PCs?! I'm just a blue collar crane operator that lives in So Cal that works his butt off. When I want something I buy it. That of coarse after my wife kid and mortgage aren't affected.
> 
> Since I'm on my last day of a 68 day straight 12 hour shift job my S8 should be finished up soon. Can't wait to have more time in my life other than working and sleeping
> 
> The 600 square ft master bed/bath/dining add on we're finishing up on the house makes my pc feel like a bubble ball machine purchase anyways.


really? i guess we all run x99 with extreme processors now and 64gb of ram and quad sli with 1080ti and as many ssd as we can fit and, you get the idea. people take cost into account and you know it. we dont all have the same budget or resources.
i had a job where i worked m-f 12 hrs and 10 on saturday and sunday swing shift cycling shifts weekly. switching from afternoons to daylight we got that sunday off. did that for a year. loved the paychecks and the bank account. hated trying to live a life in just an afternoon every other week.
its california so...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Took the glass front off and took a pic, this is what it looks like when i look at it, much much worse...lol, going back to clear tomorrow


That's how mine looks as we'll in a non glass reservoir. Just because the dye stays more concentrated in the reservoir.


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> First off...
> 
> Exactly *whose* lap am I trying to sit in?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was speaking of the market in general. Nobody specifically. But whatevs.
> 
> Secondly don't talk to me (or anybody else here for that matter) like we don't have a background. My uncle ran his own shop for *decades*, not years. Working on exotics as well as high end domestics. Ferrari, Porsche, Cadillac etc. I,ve seen the V12 Cadillac motor that he rebuilt from the ground up using nothing but the block and blueprints to get it back to spec.
> 
> His thoughts on this subject were "If you have the knowledge and the equipment, then charge what you're worth; not what people believe it should be. If it were easy then everybody would do it and you would charge less and not remain in business long."
> 
> The man did everything manually right up til this past July when he passed on.
> 
> So what if you're a genius with Autocad machining. As said previously, this is a niche market and as such the prices remain high. Maybe block tolerances aren't as tight as you work with. So the eff what? If you think you can do better for cheaper, then do something about it and drop the gloves to the dirt and get your hands dirty. I for one would love to pay less money for good watercooling gear. I don't owe anyone allegiances in any way. I like EK gear because it's nice and because I like a quality look in my builds. They don't pay me a dime.
> 
> You haven't refuted my stance on the cost of materials. Copper and acrylic is not cheap. Neither is Acetal. Could the prices be better? Sure. But prices will not come down unless manufacturers can get bulk prices on large lots. EK for one doesn't do enough business to get the batch of copper that it would require to bring down the prices to your satisfaction I'd wager. So do something about it if you know better than the rest of us enthusiasts. Until then, you're all talk no hat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> youll sit in any lap that someone will let you. you are obviously not picky.
> i dont believe you have anyone in a machining field in your family. with you, its always either you did it or someone you know or someone in your family. you probably actually know someone that suicide bombed, dont you?
> you claimed tolerances. now you talk like its nothing. keep flip flopping. youre awesome on that except when it comes to crying about thermaltake.
> make my own stuff. lol. ****.
> cost of materials? yeah they get it pretty cheap. they go through a lot of copper. any idea how many blocks they sell? more people buy them than just this forum. there is a huge world out there.
> you lost any believable babbling of skills or experiences when you sad "whatevs". high school girl much? more when you sit and lie about your uncle. for shame.
> you wanna see my hat? drag your butt off your couch and come to michigan. see hat vs talk.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Wow, now I feel rich... I had no idea that ~$100 was a lot of money in this hobby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to moan and cry over costs of something... how about fittings... a ball-valve now costs 35% of what one of those blocks costs and requires no machining at all... and the little dragon isn't even laser etched! And the paint comes off if you drop them more than 3 inches. Still haven't done a build yet where I didn't have close to $300 in fittings... and I don't make dual-loop monsters with quad GPUs... I'll bet some of these builds have close to $1K in fittings alone!
> 
> Complaining about the cost of a waterblock designed to cool a GPU which in many cases (Titans for example) can be over $1K by itself... and some people throw 2-3 of them in one system. It's like crying about a twin turbo setup for a $50K car costing $10K (which they do if they're decently complete setups).
> 
> I guess buying a seven-figure assembly line doesn't count and you should sell the resulting product for materials cost (and while you're at it pay all the employees so little that they wind up crying about how they can't afford the blocks they helped to manufacture). SMH
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yep, fittings cost is bs. and the fitting fanboys are ridiculous.
> a block still doesnt warrant the cost of $170. $115 average a couple years ago.
> 7 figure assembly line? we arent talking about gm or ford here.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I find it laughable when someone complains about the price of an Enthusiast part. Regardless of what it is.
> 
> Why? Because they likely purchase Enthusiast computer parts that were cooled just fine on air but they want to watercool them anyway. If you have entry level stuffs then okay fine, the complaint is understandable. But if you're on Enthusiast Class components then it's up to you whether you stay on air or go water. I tend to go with water over all else not because I can afford it but because I am spoiled by good temp values above all else. I'm a broke azz who buys quality whenever possible. I will piece a loop together over a broader span of time than most. 6mos to a year. No XSPC. No (except for my 6870 heatsinks and Rad Brackets) Swiftech. No more Enzotech and Fer danged sure no Thermalfake. I ain't complaining one bit. This is not a hobby for the faint of heart. Only way prices will come down is with market saturation. That's how prices for everything comes down. That's how exotic car manufacturers can ask so much for a high end car. There is no way the water cooling market will achieve market saturation so there we are. The prices will remain "high".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should be able to pull the trigger on my 480 block this week. I work a MW job and build systems in my spare time. I don't charge a lot for building systems unless I'm modding. Which almost never happens atm. So I mod my systems and stick to the formula that works for me. I get rather perturbed when I see the kind of petulance over the cost of a block. If I were to add up all the watercooling parts I have purchased over the last four years, I could probably have built and sold a couple of Enthusiast builds or 4 budget builds. So IME, people should stop complaining or simply stop watercooling if it gets to that point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> a 980ti isnt cooled by air just fine. sli sure as hell isnt just fine on air. also, it doesnt matter what i or anyone else buys. good job trying to deflect that into nothing. its about cost of parts not being in line with production costs. not what hardware i or anyone else bought.
> market saturation? people want blocks and they dont make them. oos, eol, not available cause we wont make it. why dont you go look at ppc and check out the 48% off 1080 blocks? $75 for a block on sale that is normally priced at $140. check out scratch n dent 1080 for $50. now tell me again about costs and all that bs? oh, thats right. i wont see or hear what you have to say cause, not worth it.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The cost is all relative to expectation,some see the value,some dont.
> 
> However, cost-wise blocks have been stable in pricing for a while now, the process is not a 5 min job. You are not just paying for the block,you are also paying for the development of new technologies in this field.
> You can apply this to all enthusiast PC products.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> blocks are not stable in prices. they fluctuate. hell, different models and different prices. as i said earlier, $150 for a 980ti block and $120 for 780/titan blocks and $105 or so for 1080 blocks. hell amd blocks are pretty much always cheaper.
> 
> you can all say what you want but the truth is, the prices are what they are because people pay it.
Click to expand...





I offered up some family history and you can choose to believe it or not. I come from a long line of doers. From cabinetry to metals. My Greats were around during the depression era. They built their own house and we're one of the founding families of Fresno. My Grands also were around in the dustbowl and depression era and my Grandfather was a Master electrician. I have an uncle who founded and owned Bennet Hopkins. Another Uncle worked for him. Still another who worked for Nissan working on Engines. My Oldest uncle from my direct line was the machinist. My youngest Uncle was one of two Officers who were chosen to work with K9 units in Palo Alto. You can believe this or not. I Could care less. Your beliefs on my experience mean effects all in the grand scheme of things.

So you're telling me that every 1080ti owner has their Card under water?









And lastly block prices are fluctuating? Why? Because a *vendor* lowered the price of a block? Ever heard of MSRP? The vendors have their markup. If they weren't allowed to, you would only be buying from the manufacturer and we would not be able to buy anything from Amazon or any number of kiosks we purchase goods and services from. For a man that's in the machinist ranks I am pretty sure you understand just how illogical that argument is. But let's play along shall we? So back to the matter at hand, pricee fluctuation. Vendors will also lower their prices to clear stock that is not selling. It's collecting dust. There is no profit to be made from it in the dustbin. So the lower the price and get less of a profit. It's that simple. There are no price fluctuations based on marketprice.

My bad for making things so simple a machinist can understand. Mayne next time I will give a discertation on the how's whys wherefores and how it's your type of arrogance that ruins a site like OCN.

I sit in nobody's lap. But believe whatever your liberal mind wishes to. I thought you might've come round to not insulting people for having an opinion. I was wrong indeed.









~Ceadder


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> Are you able to verify the speed via pwm header? If you are just bleeding it with no power to the PC and it's a pwm D5 it will only run at ~60%, it requires a pwm signal to run higher than that. Complete opposite of the DDC, which runs at 100% without a pwm signal.


Well that's the thing, I knew about that - which is why I hooked up both the pump and my Aquaero 6 for the bleeding... granted I have yet to get the software installed and set up the flow meter to verify but it shows 2000 RPM on the tach lead to the AQ6 at 100% PWM. Just from 'feel' it seems like it would be 1GPM _at the very most_ and likely slightly under that. On the plus side it's completely silent (definitely compared to the fans even at 1200RPM).

Anyway I'll just see what I can after installing all the software and go from there, but I'll post what I find here in case it helps anyone else. Don't see restriction being the issue considering I've only got two blocks and two very low restriction rads in the loop... but as long as the flow is somewhere close to 1GPM I'll just run it at 100% all the time.

Other than some photoshop filters, I'll probably never even hit full load beyond running a benchmark or two for giggles. Just seemed like it was a little 'anemic' to me.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Well that's the thing, I knew about that - which is why I hooked up both the pump and my Aquaero 6 for the bleeding... granted I have yet to get the software installed and set up the flow meter to verify but it ...
> *shows 2000 RPM on the tach lead to the AQ6 at 100% PWM*.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just from 'feel' it seems like it would be 1GPM _at the very most_ and likely slightly under that. On the plus side it's completely silent (definitely compared to the fans even at 1200RPM).
> 
> Anyway I'll just see what I can after installing all the software and go from there, but I'll post what I find here in case it helps anyone else. Don't see restriction being the issue considering I've only got two blocks and two very low restriction rads in the loop... but as long as the flow is somewhere close to 1GPM I'll just run it at 100% all the time.
> 
> Other than some photoshop filters, I'll probably never even hit full load beyond running a benchmark or two for giggles. Just seemed like it was a little 'anemic' to me.


Not sure what the issue is but something's not right.
D5 PWM @ 100% should be hitting around 4800 RPM.

*edit:* see bottom right


----------



## ruffhi

You are right ... 4830 isn't 4800. Or are you talking about that blue shaded area? There is something in Aquasuite that controls that ... but I can't remember what it is at the moment.

Edit: Look at 'settings', 'colors'.

Also - your other gauges have them too (0 to 1000) but they are thinner.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I offered up some family history and you can choose to believe it or not. I come from a long line of doers. From cabinetry to metals. My Greats were around during the depression era. They built their own house and we're one of the founding families of Fresno. My Grands also were around in the dustbowl and depression era and my Grandfather was a Master electrician. I have an uncle who founded and owned Bennet Hopkins. Another Uncle worked for him. Still another who worked for Nissan working on Engines. My Oldest uncle from my direct line was the machinist. My youngest Uncle was one of two Officers who were chosen to work with K9 units in Palo Alto. You can believe this or not. I Could care less. Your beliefs on my experience mean effects all in the grand scheme of things.
> 
> So you're telling me that every 1080ti owner has their Card under water?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And lastly block prices are fluctuating? Why? Because a *vendor* lowered the price of a block? Ever heard of MSRP? The vendors have their markup. If they weren't allowed to, you would only be buying from the manufacturer and we would not be able to buy anything from Amazon or any number of kiosks we purchase goods and services from. For a man that's in the machinist ranks I am pretty sure you understand just how illogical that argument is. But let's play along shall we? So back to the matter at hand, pricee fluctuation. Vendors will also lower their prices to clear stock that is not selling. It's collecting dust. There is no profit to be made from it in the dustbin. So the lower the price and get less of a profit. It's that simple. There are no price fluctuations based on marketprice.
> 
> My bad for making things so simple a machinist can understand. Mayne next time I will give a discertation on the how's whys wherefores and how it's your type of arrogance that ruins a site like OCN.
> 
> I sit in nobody's lap. But believe whatever your liberal mind wishes to. I thought you might've come round to not insulting people for having an opinion. I was wrong indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Best to ignore that individual. Reason the block and mute exist on forum boards.


----------



## Ceadderman

I thot I had him on iggy. Guess I will have to apply the iggy again.









I think I did okay considering I'da prolly said something to get me a warning a few years back with his nonsense.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I thot I had him on iggy. Guess I will have to apply the iggy again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I did okay considering I'da prolly said something to get me a warning a few years back with his nonsense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


I got into it with that guy before on something. Did my research and just about every post of his is some sort of arrogant fight. Imagine my reaction to see him post in this thread.

My suggestion is to ignore him and he'll go away. He just likes to fight.

I didn't think I'd have to block him as I didn't frequent the threads he was in. I was wrong so he's blocked now.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Its been a year so I can post this again














Havent touched it since dec 2014


----------



## FXformat

Anyways, back on topic please. Tomorrow i gotta flush out my system of the blue dye, the different shades in the reservoir and block is really annoying me. Has anyone just use dish soap to flush out their loop? I plan on draining the loop and fill the res with distilled water and add a couple drop of dish soap, run the pump on max and let it drain out through my drain valve and keep adding water as it drains. I really don't want to take everything apart, too much work.


----------



## Ceadderman

You probably would have better results using Mayhems Blitz. It's a two part cleaning solution. If I remember correctly, part one is for Rads only and part II is for the entire loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its been a year so I can post this again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Havent touched it since dec 2014


What am I looking at here







?

I can see there's measures taken to address condensation concerns so are you using air conditioning to reduce the temperatures of the fluid below ambient







?


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like Phase change cooling to me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *^*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy iggytropolis population: *you*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yep, thank goodness for the block feature.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like Phase change cooling to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That was my initial thought but when I went back over the photos I saw the quick disconnects on the CPU block and wondered if the neoprene lagging is just to deal with condensation from the fluid







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Look like they go to the GPU array to me.









.~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm going to say a Chiller is being used


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

What your looking at is in my sig and I run 2 waterchillers and A/C when required .









1hp chiller with 2 rads to cool them R9 290's when I'm not running the chiller .

1/10 hp chiller to directly cool my o/cd 4960x . No rads .

I run the cpu chiller at 23c 24/7 which is 5 c to 7c below ambient .

That's why I have cpu loop insulated and just the intake for the rads .

I hope that condensed version explains it all

HC-PC


----------



## Ceadderman

I stand corrected
Good job with that.









Sure looked like phase but reality is chillers. So do you have to insulate chillers or is this an extreme setup that requires insulation and soft eraser material? A while back I was considering the chiller option. If extreme what's the minimum temp to run w/o Insulation?









~Ceadder


----------



## gerrardo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Well that's the thing, I knew about that - which is why I hooked up both the pump and my Aquaero 6 for the bleeding... granted I have yet to get the software installed and set up the flow meter to verify but it shows 2000 RPM on the tach lead to the AQ6 at 100% PWM. Just from 'feel' it seems like it would be 1GPM _at the very most_ and likely slightly under that. On the plus side it's completely silent (definitely compared to the fans even at 1200RPM).
> 
> Anyway I'll just see what I can after installing all the software and go from there, but I'll post what I find here in case it helps anyone else. Don't see restriction being the issue considering I've only got two blocks and two very low restriction rads in the loop... but as long as the flow is somewhere close to 1GPM I'll just run it at 100% all the time.
> 
> Other than some photoshop filters, I'll probably never even hit full load beyond running a benchmark or two for giggles. Just seemed like it was a little 'anemic' to me.






2k RPM is below the 50-60% mark, it should be much closer to 4800 RPM at full speed and 2600-2800 @ 60% (default). Looks like that pump isn't getting a full PWM signal


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I stand corrected
> Good job with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure looked like phase but reality is chillers. So do you have to insulate chillers or is this an extreme setup that requires insulation and soft eraser material? A while back I was considering the chiller option. If extreme what's the minimum temp to run w/o Insulation?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the complement









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> What am I looking at here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> I can see there's measures taken to address condensation concerns so are you using air conditioning to reduce the temperatures of the fluid below ambient
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


I'm using HVAC 3/4" inside that's used for insulating copper refrigerant pipe .

Cause I live in Brisbane SE Queensland this time of year humidity / wet weather plays a big part in what sub ambient temps I can run . Insulated or not .

So for the CPU loop 5c to 7c below ambient is the sweet spot for minimal condensation .

BUT when I run the A/C and the ducted house A/C at 18c I can run the loop even lower .

I can set the chiller to cool at 3c if I so desire .

GPU loop is a different beast altogether









The 1 hp chiller has a 4ltr res .

When the setpoint is say 18c and my room A/C running at 18c the GPU chiller exhaust gets sucked in to the room A/C's intake i have it pointed at the rads which in turn blows the air over my motherboard and chills the room too .

Actual watertemp is 15c / 16c . So when I was benching the 290's @ 1300mhz + I would have a full load temp of less that 30c . No chiller 45c to 50c

The best feature of this is when the A/C is running I really don't need to turn on the GPU chiller











I know it looks ghetto , don't care really BUT the results and reliability ive achieved over the years speak for itself .

Also I think waaay out side the square , circle , box ect


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Anyways, back on topic please. Tomorrow i gotta flush out my system of the blue dye, the different shades in the reservoir and block is really annoying me. Has anyone just use dish soap to flush out their loop? I plan on draining the loop and fill the res with distilled water and add a couple drop of dish soap, run the pump on max and let it drain out through my drain valve and keep adding water as it drains. I really don't want to take everything apart, too much work.


I have used both blue pastel and blue dye. Just flushed two gallons or so of distilled and it worked perfect. That's all you need.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have used both blue pastel and blue dye. Just flushed two gallons or so of distilled and it worked perfect. That's all you need.


Awesome, thanks! Are you still using colored dyes at the moment? I like the blue just wish it was more even.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I don't think it's the glass that is making the coolant color appear so drastically different.
> acrylic reservoirs do the same - make the coolant appear darker when running colored "clear" coolant.
> 
> The main reason for color variation is the different diameters of the reservoirs and tubes.
> The res having larger diameter has a greater "density" of the fluid allowing less light to pass through making the coolant appear darker.
> 
> Having a black panel in the background exaggerates the difference.
> 
> More lighting is the only way to trackle the issue if want to keep the colored coolant.
> behind the res and perhaps even in-res lighting.


I'd have to agree with Fate on this one.... I mean the coolant is supposed to be blue right?

TCO


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Hi!

On a EK XTX360 (60mm thick) Is push or pull enough? 900-1100 RPM.

I previously had push/pull, but removed three of the fans and used two on a XT240. I reckon that is plenty for a R7 1700 and a 1080Ti (Overclocking on either stock voltage, or with decreased voltage)


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I'd have to agree with Fate on this one.... I mean the coolant is supposed to be blue right?
> 
> TCO


???

Yes it's blue, but they look different from my Res to everything else.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

Has anyone every have you 90% fitting leak from the red line shown in this pic?


My 4 fitting leak after a year of use.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> ???
> 
> Yes it's blue, but they look different from my Res to everything else.


That's totally normal. Unfortunately only clear will look the same regardless of 'thickness' that you're looking through - and obviously that only holds for a foot or so before even clear water starts bending enough light to look darker. Here's mine (threw some dye in for explanation since I'll have to break everything down to deal with my pump).











Note how in the tubes it's barely a 'sky blue' but it's much more of a 'royal blue' in the res... and that's with a mirror behind it and a ton of light coming from the front of the case. On the other hand if you look back at my pic without the dye... totally clear and both look nearly identical.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> 
> 2k RPM is below the 50-60% mark, it should be much closer to 4800 RPM at full speed and 2600-2800 @ 60% (default). Looks like that pump isn't getting a full PWM signal


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Not sure what the issue is but something's not right.
> D5 PWM @ 100% should be hitting around 4800 RPM.


Sigh. Since it should be over 2K even if disconnected and regardless of the PWM signal I send it... it never speeds up or slows down - is it possible that I have the PWM and TACH leads switched? Not sure of the actual signal differences but since it does slow down (i.e. STOP COMPLETELY) when I send a PWM under 40% to it... but no matter what the RPM is always reading 2000 at the AQ6... even when the pump is OFF!









It's got flow but I drained some out to see it coming out of the tube - and that's just a sad dribble really. No wonder it's so silent though! On the upside it still keeps everything cool(ish) at least during web browsing and idle tasks... not like I'm stressing it while in this state:


That's at 100%PWM.









Thanks for the confirmation guys. Reps+


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Has anyone every have you 90% fitting leak from the red line shown in this pic?
> 
> 
> My 4 fitting leak after a year of use.


Yep, i have that same issue with the EK 90, water started seeping out. I had a pic of it let me find it, this was right above my PSU too so it could've been disastrous if i left the pc on overnight and slept, good thing i saw it oozing out and turned off my system immediately. There's just too much "play" in that part of the fitting, i've been using bitspower ever since, and it's been holding up. Paid 2x more though


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> That's totally normal. Unfortunately only clear will look the same regardless of 'thickness' that you're looking through - and obviously that only holds for a foot or so before even clear water starts bending enough light to look darker. Here's mine (threw some dye in for explanation since I'll have to break everything down to deal with my pump).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how in the tubes it's barely a 'sky blue' but it's much more of a 'royal blue' in the res... and that's with a mirror behind it and a ton of light coming from the front of the case. On the other hand if you look back at my pic without the dye... totally clear and both look nearly identical.


Sorry bout your pump trouble mate, i reckon i have just as much work tearing down and draining this loop, my OCD is terrible and any hint of color left in that loop will kill me. Been on this forum as long as i have, i've never seen anyone complain about the different in shade. Weird, that's what i get for trying to be adventurous with the colors


----------



## Kimir

Same here, bad batch of EK, all replaced with warranty. Problem free ever since.
edit: the 90° fitting, didn't quote sry.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Sorry bout your pump trouble mate, i reckon i have just as much work tearing down and draining this loop, my OCD is terrible and any hint of color left in that loop will kill me. Been on this forum as long as i have, i've never seen anyone complain about the different in shade. Weird, that's what i get for trying to be adventurous with the colors


IMO it's only close (and not 100% the same but nearly so) with pastel colored fluids. Then the only difference is the transparency of the materials and the difference in thickness (reservoir will have thicker walls). With water+dye only... the differences are much more obvious.

Try flushing with about 2-3 gallons of distilled and bleed it well in between fill and drain cycles... I don't think you'll see blue in there at all after that.


----------



## Dortheleus

I think it fried my RAM and Mobo, don't have any spare parts to test any thing at the moment.


----------



## dwolvin

D'oh! That sucks- water intrusion?

I'm trying to extent the life of me game rig's MB and CPU, but it's a Sany 2011 and only sees 6 of 8 ram slots, which ones changes if I touch anything (all 8 full). Might be a hint to rebuild with a Ryzen soon! All those luscious cores....


----------



## Dortheleus

I'm actually saving for a new Ryzen also. By the time the ITX mobos come out I should have enough money saved for new parts (including new 90 degree fitings)


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Has anyone every have you 90% fitting leak from the red line shown in this pic?
> 
> My 4 fitting leak after a year of use.


i had a couple start weeping while i was changing some tubing runs yesterday. (Both xspc, kinda asking for it?) Even worse is there was a dry water spot on my top gpu backplate from a very small drop. Glad i was in there changing stuff after just a week of building the loop. I think i may try and move away from rotaries entirely since i think I've burned through 3-4 at this point. Been lucky so far though, no harm done


----------



## XCalinX

My Caselabs SMA8 build, specs in sig. Soon to be upgraded to Ryzen


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That's totally normal. Unfortunately only clear will look the same regardless of 'thickness' that you're looking through - and obviously that only holds for a foot or so before even clear water starts bending enough light to look darker. Here's mine (threw some dye in for explanation since I'll have to break everything down to deal with my pump).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how in the tubes it's barely a 'sky blue' but it's much more of a 'royal blue' in the res... and that's with a mirror behind it and a ton of light coming from the front of the case. On the other hand if you look back at my pic without the dye... totally clear and both look nearly identical.
> 
> 
> Sigh. Since it should be over 2K even if disconnected and regardless of the PWM signal I send it... it never speeds up or slows down - is it possible that I have the PWM and TACH leads switched? Not sure of the actual signal differences but since it does slow down (i.e. STOP COMPLETELY) when I send a PWM under 40% to it... but no matter what the RPM is always reading 2000 at the AQ6... even when the pump is OFF!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's got flow but I drained some out to see it coming out of the tube - and that's just a sad dribble really. No wonder it's so silent though! On the upside it still keeps everything cool(ish) at least during web browsing and idle tasks... not like I'm stressing it while in this state:
> 
> 
> That's at 100%PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the confirmation guys. Reps+


What pump and model do you have? I ask because old d5 models will run at 60% without pwm signal and some of the new ones (Aquacomputer and EK) will run at 100%. In any case I would take the aquaero out of the equation and test it using the motherboard PWM header. Thus you can be sure is a problem with the pump and not with the Aquaero. A red flag appeared for me when you mentioned the aquaero is always reading 2000 rpm even if pump is not powered on. So plug to the MB PWM header, set such header to PWM mode and check the speed readings. Also check if Aquaero channel is set up to PWM mode and the full range is allowed on that channel (from 20 to 100% for example). Finally, make sure the fan channel is assigned to a controller in Aquaero , preferably a point controller where you set speed to 100%.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> A whole house? Some of the mass production ones that can do multiple parts at once and come equipped with rotary ATC's and/or the ability to use two tools at once on a single piece cost as much as a house in Vancouver!


West Van, or East Van?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> West Van, or East Van?


I'll playfully it probably doesn't even matter if it's Surrey, Langley, or New Westminster....







Apartments easily go for upwards of (or more than) a million dollars to own out there, don't they?

At least here in Deadmonton/Etown you can still buy a McMansion with that kind of cash. Pity it's on a tiny lot, but still.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Has anyone every have you 90% fitting leak from the red line shown in this pic?
> 
> My 4 fitting leak after a year of use.
> 
> 
> 
> i had a couple start weeping while i was changing some tubing runs yesterday. (Both xspc, kinda asking for it?) Even worse is there was a dry water spot on my top gpu backplate from a very small drop. Glad i was in there changing stuff after just a week of building the loop. I think i may try and move away from rotaries entirely since i think I've burned through 3-4 at this point. Been lucky so far though, no harm done
Click to expand...

Did you dunk them in distilled before twisting them? Rotary fittings have a seal at the rotary that if not lubricated can fail. Doesn't always happen, but you could cut down on problems if you dunk all your rotaries and apply them newly dry on the external surface. I got this idea from somebody in this thread. Works for S/O valves too. Dunk prior to manipulation.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dortheleus

Didn't work in my case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Didn't work in my case.


That's too bad. The trick usually works. I let mine sit for a few minutes to make certain the seals get lubricated without an air pocket mucking up the process.









Getting my 480 block today and should be here sometime next week dependant on shipping. Gonna hold off til I get a backplate and Ryzen platform sorted out. Probably going to get a monoblock for Hero as well.









So much for overpriced blocks.









I keed I keed









~Ceadder


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> What pump and model do you have? I ask because old d5 models will run at 60% without pwm signal and some of the new ones (Aquacomputer and EK) will run at 100%. In any case I would take the aquaero out of the equation and test it using the motherboard PWM header. Thus you can be sure is a problem with the pump and not with the Aquaero. A red flag appeared for me when you mentioned the aquaero is always reading 2000 rpm even if pump is not powered on. So plug to the MB PWM header, set such header to PWM mode and check the speed readings. Also check if Aquaero channel is set up to PWM mode and the full range is allowed on that channel (from 20 to 100% for example). Finally, make sure the fan channel is assigned to a controller in Aquaero , preferably a point controller where you set speed to 100%.


Yeah, already did that (both actually). Had to do that with the AQ6 just to get it going faster than it would with it unplugged - because that was just pathetic! It wouldn't even purge air at the 60% default level! I'm going to pick up a new D5 today (just going with a plain 655) which I can manually set at 5 for bleeding and then drop to 3/4 for normal use once I see which hits closest to 1GPM. At least then I can set the other one up and test it outside of a loop - and either use it later on in another build if it's a matter of bad wiring - or write it off as something I should have tested when I got it rather than waiting until 4 months later to finally get things up and running.









EDIT: Thank you. Rep+
Although I had (I thought) checked with a PWM header - it turns out that none of the 4-pin fan ports on my MB with the exception of the CPU header are PWM headers!







Including the "PUMP" header apparently. When I checked the manual I saw this and then moved the pump control lead to the CPU header - it finally came alive!

Interestingly enough when I set that header at 60%... the pump is much more powerful than with it disconnected! So apparently this particular D5 will only run at ~40% with no PWM signal present. At 100% it hits >4200RPM and churns the water like a hurricane! At 60% it's actually more than enough flow to be hitting the 1GPM (by feel at least)!

It's weird though because the AQ6 fan setup is set to PWM controlled, but it's obviously not sending a signal that the pump can interpret... a PWM _fan_ on the other hand will indeed spin up/down with the same control settings.










EDIT2: In case there are others that run into this... HERE IS A SOLUTION (tl;dr = the pump isn't 'agreeable' to the AQ6 so without custom alteration it won't be PWM controlled). I'm not going to bother with wiring a resistor to deal with it so I'll just use the CPU header and call it a day.


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Yeah, already did that (both actually). Had to do that with the AQ6 just to get it going faster than it would with it unplugged - because that was just pathetic! It wouldn't even purge air at the 60% default level! I'm going to pick up a new D5 today (just going with a plain 655) which I can manually set at 5 for bleeding and then drop to 3/4 for normal use once I see which hits closest to 1GPM. At least then I can set the other one up and test it outside of a loop - and either use it later on in another build if it's a matter of bad wiring - or write it off as something I should have tested when I got it rather than waiting until 4 months later to finally get things up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Thank you. Rep+
> Although I had (I thought) checked with a PWM header - it turns out that none of the 4-pin fan ports on my MB with the exception of the CPU header are PWM headers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Including the "PUMP" header apparently. When I checked the manual I saw this and then moved the pump control lead to the CPU header - it finally came alive!
> 
> Interestingly enough when I set that header at 60%... the pump is much more powerful than with it disconnected! So apparently this particular D5 will only run at ~40% with no PWM signal present. At 100% it hits >4200RPM and churns the water like a hurricane! At 60% it's actually more than enough flow to be hitting the 1GPM (by feel at least)!
> 
> It's weird though because the AQ6 fan setup is set to PWM controlled, but it's obviously not sending a signal that the pump can interpret... a PWM _fan_ on the other hand will indeed spin up/down with the same control settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT2: In case there are others that run into this... HERE IS A SOLUTION (tl;dr = the pump isn't 'agreeable' to the AQ6 so without custom alteration it won't be PWM controlled). I'm not going to bother with wiring a resistor to deal with it so I'll just use the CPU header and call it a day.


It's really deceptive as most 4pin mobo headers outside of the CPU fan are variable voltage control versus pwm, or some even have a dummy 4th pin! Really wish we got a few more PWM headers especially since it's an Intel standard last I checked...


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> It's really deceptive as most 4pin mobo headers outside of the CPU fan are variable voltage control versus pwm, or some even have a dummy 4th pin! Really wish we got a few more PWM headers especially since it's an Intel standard last I checked...


Yep that's the case on my board... sad when they put 7 4-pin headers on the board and 6 of them have a dummy pin. Just use 3 pin headers if that's the case! To me doing it that way is to _intentionally_ mislead consumers as you can't find out the truth without looking in the manual (it doesn't say anything about it on the box or on the site marketing - in fact it mentions PWM fan control).

It's not like you can't connect a 4 pin fan to a 3 pin header... which is all these are anyway.







Still confusing that the MB manufacturers implement PWM in a way that works with all pumps and fans, but the Aquaero has an implementation which only works with _some_ pumps and all fans.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Radiators. I love 'em.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> It's really deceptive as most 4pin mobo headers outside of the CPU fan are variable voltage control versus pwm, or some even have a dummy 4th pin! Really wish we got a few more PWM headers especially since it's an Intel standard last I checked...
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that's the case on my board... sad when they put 7 4-pin headers on the board and 6 of them have a dummy pin. Just use 3 pin headers if that's the case! To me doing it that way is to _intentionally_ mislead consumers as you can't find out the truth without looking in the manual (it doesn't say anything about it on the box or on the site marketing - in fact it mentions PWM fan control).
> 
> It's not like you can't connect a 4 pin fan to a 3 pin header... which is all these are anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still confusing that the MB manufacturers implement PWM in a way that works with all pumps and fans, but the Aquaero has an implementation which only works with _some_ pumps and all fans.
Click to expand...

It's actually the PWM version of the D5 that doesn't implement the Intel PWM standard.

The standard requires that the device to be controlled, ie: fan or pump, have an internal current limited pullup to a 3.3 or 5V source, while the controlling device, ie; mobo or Aquaero, only needs to have an open drain mosfet.

The A6 follows the standard, while with the notable exception of the AC PWM D5 offering and the EK GEN2 PWM D5 offering, the PWM D5 pump does not.

It was a design choice by the manufacturer so that the pump would run at 60% with no PWM connection, instead of 100% like a fan does.

A number of mobo makers have added pullups on board, which gives them a bit of added compatibility.

Having a pullup on the controlling device is not required by the standard but since it can't actually hurt, sometimes it's designed in. . . . Which is why usually a PWM D5 will work fine when on a mobo PWM header, but not always.

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Radiators. I love 'em.


I think Lumo is going to be jealous lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Yeah, already did that (both actually). Had to do that with the AQ6 just to get it going faster than it would with it unplugged - because that was just pathetic! It wouldn't even purge air at the 60% default level! I'm going to pick up a new D5 today (just going with a plain 655) which I can manually set at 5 for bleeding and then drop to 3/4 for normal use once I see which hits closest to 1GPM. At least then I can set the other one up and test it outside of a loop - and either use it later on in another build if it's a matter of bad wiring - or write it off as something I should have tested when I got it rather than waiting until 4 months later to finally get things up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Thank you. Rep+
> Although I had (I thought) checked with a PWM header - it turns out that none of the 4-pin fan ports on my MB with the exception of the CPU header are PWM headers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Including the "PUMP" header apparently. When I checked the manual I saw this and then moved the pump control lead to the CPU header - it finally came alive!
> 
> Interestingly enough when I set that header at 60%... the pump is much more powerful than with it disconnected! So apparently this particular D5 will only run at ~40% with no PWM signal present. At 100% it hits >4200RPM and churns the water like a hurricane! At 60% it's actually more than enough flow to be hitting the 1GPM (by feel at least)!
> 
> It's weird though because the AQ6 fan setup is set to PWM controlled, but it's obviously not sending a signal that the pump can interpret... a PWM _fan_ on the other hand will indeed spin up/down with the same control settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT2: In case there are others that run into this... HERE IS A SOLUTION (tl;dr = the pump isn't 'agreeable' to the AQ6 so without custom alteration it won't be PWM controlled). I'm not going to bother with wiring a resistor to deal with it so I'll just use the CPU header and call it a day.


glad is working. That is why I suggested. D5 new model EK and Aquacomputer are fully compatible with intel PWM specs while all previous models are not from all brands (including EK). It is not a fault of Aquaero and as you discovered most headers in Mobos are not truly PWM.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's actually the PWM version of the D5 that doesn't implement the Intel PWM standard.
> 
> The standard requires that the device to be controlled, ie: fan or pump, have an internal current limited pullup to a 3.3 or 5V source, while the controlling device, ie; mobo or Aquaero, only needs to have an open drain mosfet.
> 
> The A6 follows the standard, while with the notable exception of the AC PWM D5 offering and the EK GEN2 PWM D5 offering, the PWM D5 pump does not.
> 
> It was a design choice by the manufacturer so that the pump would run at 60% with no PWM connection, instead of 100% like a fan does.
> 
> A number of mobo makers have added pullups on board, which gives them a bit of added compatibility.
> 
> *Having a pullup on the controlling device is not required by the standard but since it can't actually hurt, sometimes it's designed in. . . . Which is why usually a PWM D5 will work fine when on a mobo PWM header, but not always.*
> 
> Darlene


Yes, that's what I meant. I'm not saying that AquaComputer did anything "wrong" with their design - nor that MSI did by putting 4-pin non-PWM headers on their MBs for that matter. I was simply surprised that AquaComputer chose to not provide a pullup on one or more of the headers on the AQ6 as that would provide complete compatibility with all PWM controlled pumps regardless of age or design. Then again I'm sure there were other engineering considerations that perhaps made it not feasible. (At least I hope it was that other than "ours works and this will force more sales of our pumps" sort of thing).

I've always built with DDC's so it never occurred to me that I would need "specific" D5 variants to use the AQ6.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Radiators. I love 'em.


Looking foward to seeing your build. The gpu blocks looked VERY nice. That radiator however imo is not on par with the rest.


----------



## dwolvin

Are those stands for something, or finger guards?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's actually the PWM version of the D5 that doesn't implement the Intel PWM standard.
> 
> The standard requires that the device to be controlled, ie: fan or pump, have an internal current limited pullup to a 3.3 or 5V source, while the controlling device, ie; mobo or Aquaero, only needs to have an open drain mosfet.
> 
> The A6 follows the standard, while with the notable exception of the AC PWM D5 offering and the EK GEN2 PWM D5 offering, the PWM D5 pump does not.
> 
> It was a design choice by the manufacturer so that the pump would run at 60% with no PWM connection, instead of 100% like a fan does.
> 
> A number of mobo makers have added pullups on board, which gives them a bit of added compatibility.
> 
> Having a pullup on the controlling device is not required by the standard but since it can't actually hurt, sometimes it's designed in. . . . Which is why usually a PWM D5 will work fine when on a mobo PWM header, but not always.
> 
> Darlene


So about that..





As part of an upcoming review, Swiftech's engineer told me they worked with Laing for the past few months to get the D5 PWM up to spec. The new batch of their pump I got is fine, for example. I got the older batch which was not compliant first and that was when this discussion happened.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So about that..
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2990256/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As part of an upcoming review, Swiftech's engineer told me they worked with Laing for the past few months to get the D5 PWM up to spec. The new batch of their pump I got is fine, for example. I got the older batch which was not compliant first and that was when this discussion happened.


they need to change the model number otherwise will get very confusing....we need to known which one is the old and new model. nice response curve btw. Wondering how affects the noise since there is always a sweet spot for noise in D5´s in my experience. Example, 55% might be very noise but then you reach 62% and is nearly silent.


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded on good chart! Holding off as long as possible on rebuilding my loop, but a new pump is probably in order. I am using an original EK pump that isn't listed on any of their documentation I can find, and it's been running for (5?) years 24/7.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> they need to change the model number otherwise will get very confusing....we need to known which one is the old and new model. nice response curve btw. Wondering how affects the noise since there is always a sweet spot for noise in D5´s in my experience. Example, 55% might be very noise but then you reach 62% and is nearly silent.


The plan is for the new pumps to be silently integrated into all upcoming Laing D5 PWM pumps, but there will be a period of mix (which just happens to be right now!). As I know it, all current and future Laing D5 PWM pumps will be fine now. Per RPM noise and performance remains the same of course.

For Swiftech in particular, the label on the pump motor is in different positions for the two batches:



Old batch on the left, new batch on the right.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Seconded on good chart! Holding off as long as possible on rebuilding my loop, but a new pump is probably in order. I am using an original EK pump that isn't listed on any of their documentation I can find, and it's been running for (5?) years 24/7.


Was it an EK pump based on the Jingway series? I know EK recently discontinued the DCP2.2 and DCP4.0 pumps. If so then 5 years seems pretty good so I hope that's a rough indicator for my DCP4.0 pump lifepsan







.


----------



## dwolvin

Yea- I think it's a Jingway, looking at the pics...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's actually the PWM version of the D5 that doesn't implement the Intel PWM standard.
> 
> The standard requires that the device to be controlled, ie: fan or pump, have an internal current limited pullup to a 3.3 or 5V source, while the controlling device, ie; mobo or Aquaero, only needs to have an open drain mosfet.
> 
> The A6 follows the standard, while with the notable exception of the AC PWM D5 offering and the EK GEN2 PWM D5 offering, the PWM D5 pump does not.
> 
> It was a design choice by the manufacturer so that the pump would run at 60% with no PWM connection, instead of 100% like a fan does.
> 
> A number of mobo makers have added pullups on board, which gives them a bit of added compatibility.
> 
> Having a pullup on the controlling device is not required by the standard but since it can't actually hurt, sometimes it's designed in. . . . Which is why usually a PWM D5 will work fine when on a mobo PWM header, but not always.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> So about that..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As part of an upcoming review, Swiftech's engineer told me they worked with Laing for the past few months to get the D5 PWM up to spec. The new batch of their pump I got is fine, for example. I got the older batch which was not compliant first and that was when this discussion happened.
Click to expand...

Nice to see Swiftech getting Laing to change the design . . .

Notice too that at and below below 1% duty cycle, the original pump would shut off, while the new version throttles back to about 800 from just below 20% and down.

That was part of the design, so that the pump could be used in industrial situations where there was a need to shut the pump off via software, but not have to switch power in a potentially explosive/flammable environment.

My guess is that that feature wasn't as much needed as anticipated, and the use for PCs and other similar control needs turned out to be a bigger market.

Darlene

Looking more at the chart for the old batch, I'd really like to see the duty cycle on a scope for that test . . . .

I always found they would drop to about 800 at 10% and iirc, about 1400 to 1500 at 20%

They also were at max rpm by about 75% duty cycle.

Even the old graph they published was a lot closer to my findings than that tech powerup chart.


----------



## VSG

That TPU chart is mine, so the numbers are based off the Aquaero 6 + double check with an Asus x99 motherboard (CPU fan header). I don't have an oscilloscope on hand though









Edit: An old XSPC D5 PWM I had tested had similar RPM-PWM numbers as the old batch MCP655 PWM too. I wonder if there have been more silent revisions from Laing and the lot?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That TPU chart is mine, so the numbers are based off the Aquaero 6 + double check with an Asus x99 motherboard (CPU fan header). I don't have an oscilloscope on hand though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: An old XSPC D5 PWM I had tested had similar RPM-PWM numbers as the old batch MCP655 PWM too. I wonder if there have been more silent revisions from Laing and the lot?


How were you testing the old batch version with the A6? . . . . Diva 'Dapter?

Also how old was the A6 you used?

The original A6 had 100 ohm protective resistors on the PWM line, that changed to 47 ohm after they found the issue with the Corsair PWM fans.

Possibly that could account for some of the variation in test results as well.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How were you testing the old batch version with the A6? . . . . Diva 'Dapter?
> 
> Also how old was the A6 you used?
> 
> The original A6 had 100 ohm protective resistors on the PWM line, that changed to 47 ohm after they found the issue with the Corsair PWM fans.
> 
> Possibly that could account for some of the variation in test results as well.


Nah, the adapter PCB was not going to be representative of end user situations I felt. The AQ6 is a newer one, I got rid of the older one soon after Shoggy mentioned the updated version with the new resistor.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How were you testing the old batch version with the A6? . . . . Diva 'Dapter?
> 
> Also how old was the A6 you used?
> 
> The original A6 had 100 ohm protective resistors on the PWM line, that changed to 47 ohm after they found the issue with the Corsair PWM fans.
> 
> Possibly that could account for some of the variation in test results as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, the adapter PCB was not going to be representative of end user situations I felt. The AQ6 is a newer one, I got rid of the older one soon after Shoggy mentioned the updated version with the new resistor.
Click to expand...

Probably too late to ask, but any chance you could retest the old batch version with the 'Dapter . . .

That first chart is just really far off what I got, way back, when I did the tests with a calibrated PWM box and a scope.

Getting similar results with a mobo isn't as much a verification of the result, as evidence that the mobo doesn't have much of an internal pullup


----------



## emsj86

For normal black fluid what is recommended. (Non pastel). Looking for a true deep black


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For normal black fluid what is recommended. (Non pastel). Looking for a true deep black


I thought mayhems had an oil black, but I don't see it anymore. Maybe its the x1 black?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Probably too late to ask, but any chance you could retest the old batch version with the 'Dapter . . .
> 
> That first chart is just really far off what I got, way back, when I did the tests with a calibrated PWM box and a scope.
> 
> Getting similar results with a mobo isn't as much a verification of the result, as evidence that the mobo doesn't have much of an internal pullup


I still have everything so never too late, but I am going to be abroad for over a month beginning a few hours time so it will be more like May when I get back to this. The mobo was more of a "what can you expect with this pump if you don't shell out $200 for a dedicated controller?" as opposed to a verification, since this ended up being more interesting than a usual D5 pump review in the end.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Probably too late to ask, but any chance you could retest the old batch version with the 'Dapter . . .
> 
> That first chart is just really far off what I got, way back, when I did the tests with a calibrated PWM box and a scope.
> 
> Getting similar results with a mobo isn't as much a verification of the result, as evidence that the mobo doesn't have much of an internal pullup
> 
> 
> 
> I still have everything so never too late, but I am going to be abroad for over a month beginning a few hours time so it will be more like May when I get back to this. The mobo was more of a "what can you expect with this pump if you don't shell out $200 for a dedicated controller?" as opposed to a verification, since this ended up being more interesting than a usual D5 pump review in the end.
Click to expand...

I'll try to get a chance to compare a PWM D5 straight from an A6 and again with the A6 with the Diva Mod, . . . scope attached of course.

Could yield some interesting results . . .

D.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'll try to get a chance to compare a PWM D5 straight from an A6 and again with the A6 with the Diva Mod, . . . scope attached of course.
> 
> Could yield some interesting results . . .
> 
> D.


Now if only you were still in Houston rather than pirate island. Oh well!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'll try to get a chance to compare a PWM D5 straight from an A6 and again with the A6 with the Diva Mod, . . . scope attached of course.
> 
> Could yield some interesting results . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only you were still in Houston rather than pirate island. Oh well!
Click to expand...

Sometimes I quite wish I were back in civilization, but then when I see the clowns that now populate the statehouse, and the overall climate of their war on women, I'm quite glad to have left while it was still sane . . .

Besides, I couldn't afford to move all these big Caselabs monsters.

D.


----------



## jleslie246

Ok guys/gals. Im waiting for a 1080ti still but in the meantime I want to get ready for a system rebuild. See my rig sig for current build. I want to dump the Switch 810 and move into something smaller and up to date. Ill even buy new rads if needed.

So my question is what is a bad ass case under $200 for a nice water cooled loop? Im using an ATX motherboard btw so no small cases.

Thank you


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Ok guys/gals. Im waiting for a 1080ti still but in the meantime I want to get ready for a system rebuild. See my rig sig for current build. I want to dump the Switch 810 and move into something smaller and up to date. Ill even buy new rads if needed.
> 
> So my question is what is a bad ass case under $200 for a nice water cooled loop? Im using an ATX motherboard btw so no small cases.
> 
> Thank you


Phanteks Evolv ATX - My favorite case besides the Lian Li O6S

It's about 19"x20" so a little bit smaller than your Switch 810 which is a behemoth of a case.


----------



## soulwrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Phanteks Evolv ATX - My favorite case besides the Lian Li O6S
> 
> It's about 19"x20" so a little bit smaller than your Switch 810 which is a behemoth of a case.


What a great build... Damn... wish someone was in the area of Virginia to help me with my loop... Rebuilding but I want to do it right the first time but I have a major deficit of bending and doing decent loops /tears


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulwrath*
> 
> What a great build... Damn... wish someone was in the area of Virginia to help me with my loop... Rebuilding but I want to do it right the first time but I have a major deficit of bending and doing decent loops /tears


LOL i live in Alexandria/Springfield VA man


----------



## soulwrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> LOL i live in Alexandria/Springfield VA man


...You serious?... You got time this weekend? I will buy you dinner or something lmao...


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## Alastair

I've posted this around just looking for advice. So if you have seen it in another thread that's why.

Guys in my current pc I have my 360mm rad set up with 3 Jetflo 120's pushing out and two Storm Force 200's pulling out. Would I see a benefit if I switched out the two 200's for another three Jetflo's? Or would it be marginal at best?


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I've posted this around just looking for advice. So if you have seen it in another thread that's why.
> 
> Guys in my current pc I have my 360mm rad set up with 3 Jetflo 120's pushing out and two Storm Force 200's pulling out. Would I see a benefit if I switched out the two 200's for another three Jetflo's? Or would it be marginal at best?


marginal imo ?


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> marginal imo ?


^^^this


----------



## Yukss

Note. DO NOT buy this flow indicator, it barely spins..


----------



## ruffhi

Look ... built in handles.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



The tubes around the CPU block


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I've posted this around just looking for advice. So if you have seen it in another thread that's why.
> 
> Guys in my current pc I have my 360mm rad set up with 3 Jetflo 120's pushing out and two Storm Force 200's pulling out. Would I see a benefit if I switched out the two 200's for another three Jetflo's? Or would it be marginal at best?
> 
> 
> 
> marginal imo ?
Click to expand...

Worth the effort or nah?

In terms of the overall loop its an EK PE360 and EK CE280. The CE280 has push pull Corsair ML140's and the PE360 has the Jetflo's pushing and a little bit above that I have my Phanom 820's 200mm case fans, (replaced with Storm Force 200's).

I have my CPU (8370 @ 4.95) and 2 GPU's (2x Fury 3840's) on the loop. im just looking for the last few extra C's where I can find them.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Damn, that is sexy. I really like the aesthetic. Maybe not so much the color (my eyes!) but the back plate design meshes really well with everything else.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Damn, that is sexy. I really like the aesthetic. Maybe not so much the color (my eyes!) but the back plate design meshes really well with everything else.


I used this combo before and I loved it so much that im doing it again.......the sequel is as good as the original though!

The yellow on the backplates is 2mm thick alu,I had to remove the locks on the dimm slots to get the top one in,


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I used this combo before and I loved it so much that im doing it again.......the sequel is as good as the original though!
> 
> The yellow on the backplates is 2mm thick alu,I had to remove the locks on the dimm slots to get the top one in,


Have you had any problems with removing the locks? eg ram errors or seating problems.

Also really digging that color combo


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Have you had any problems with removing the locks? eg ram errors or seating problems.
> 
> Also really digging that color combo


No,new dimm slots are pretty tight anyway..at least these ones were.....


----------



## krutoydiesel

Upgraded to the 1080Ti from the 980Ti, loving it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And they are done.



Very pleased with how they came out!


----------



## docsys

Suggest you also need some sexy cover for that SLI-bridge to fit in the theme.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> Suggest you also need some sexy cover for that SLI-bridge to fit in the theme.


Thats getting a cover,just doing the CAM for it now.


----------



## motoray

Might as well put my latest ryzen loop up. Not at full potential yet but still looks decent.



Build log here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1625313/build-log-case-mod-ryzen-fractal-define-s-x2-cube-mod-custom-loop/20#post_25948412


----------



## Deeptek

Just getting the ball rolling on my new CaseLabs S3 build..

Come chill..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1625780/build-log-deeps-diadem-of-stars-caselabs-s3-itx-build


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> Might as well put my latest ryzen loop up. Not at full potential yet but still looks decent.
> 
> 
> 
> Build log here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1625313/build-log-case-mod-ryzen-fractal-define-s-x2-cube-mod-custom-loop/20#post_25948412


That blue tubing is something else, looks gorgeous.


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> That blue tubing is something else, looks gorgeous.


Thanks. It is actually UV purple coolant... but i dont have lights yet. Still working on case mods for buttons for lights ect.


----------



## motoray

Delete


----------



## Ceadderman

@Yukss

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/103800_40#post_25949292

You might straighten that Bridge to your CPU. You have four 90* degree bends in that connection and 90* bends add restriction. Looks nice but if you can make a straight with two 90* bends I would suggest doing that instead. Even a 45* bend in the straight would be better and would be less restrictive.

Also I would suggest moving your spinner device to that straight pipe flowing into the Res. Because where it's at you have severely impacted its job, which is to see that everything is running smoothly. It can't do right by you, because you have a 90 bend and the other side is a 90* fitting. More 90* fittings limit flow rate.









If you fix those things your spinner may have been worth it after all.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Yukss
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/103800_40#post_25949292
> 
> You might straighten that Bridge to your CPU. You have four 90* degree bends in that connection and 90* bends add restriction. Looks nice but if you can make a straight with two 90* bends I would suggest doing that instead. Even a 45* bend in the straight would be better and would be less restrictive.
> 
> Also I would suggest moving your spinner device to that straight pipe flowing into the Res. Because where it's at you have severely impacted its job, which is to see that everything is running smoothly. It can't do right by you, because you have a 90 bend and the other side is a 90* fitting. More 90* fittings limit flow rate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you fix those things your spinner may have been worth it after all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


hello thanks for your opinion and suggestions, i actually just redo the tubing, here is how it was before vs what i have bow


the pump is solid and the temps are the same as it was from the picture before. i still have petg to play with.


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> hello thanks for your opinion and suggestions, i actually just redo the tubing, here is how it was before vs what i have bow
> 
> 
> the pump is solid and the temps are the same as it was from the picture before. i still have petg to play with.


Not nearly enough components to be an issue. Granted i have a higher pressure pump (mcp355) going to 3 rads res cpu, gpu ect and my flow is blasting in my reservoir. Looks good tho!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note. DO NOT buy this flow indicator, it barely spins..


Have you tried flipping the flow indicator so that the tubing is entering at the lower part instead of the upper? I'm wondering if the water isn't trying to go down and over the spinner at the same time, causing it not to spin.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Have you tried flipping the flow indicator so that the tubing is entering at the lower part instead of the upper? I'm wondering if the water isn't trying to go down and over the spinner at the same time, causing it not to spin.


it is a good idea. i will try it


----------



## jleslie246

I love that case except for no optical drive bay. I just bought a blueray drive last year. id like to use it.


----------



## Revan654

I'm having problems with the Silicon Bending inserts. I have 13mm insert & my tubing is AlphaCool 16/13. The insert is to lose in the tubing, it seems the ID is much thinner then your average 16/13 tubing.

Anyone have any suggestions what Silicon Bending inserts works with this type of tubing? I have already tried AlphaCool own bending inserts. Or some tip on how to bend tubing without an inserts without the tubing collapsing?


----------



## emsj86

Yes get a barrow insert. Seems alphacool has an issue as this is the 10th person I saw saying the same thing


----------



## rikkiepc

Yes I have exactly the same problem with the Alphacool insert. I'm waiting for the Barrow insert as well...from China so that might take a while...
Oh and I saw a post on reddit where someone used fine sand in stead of an insert. Didn't try it myself though...


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I found the Barrow 11mm insert (I'm using the 14/11 tubing from BP) didn't work too well but when I purchased an 11mm insert from BP it wouldn't fit at all - had to use a potato peeler to try to pull off small amounts of material to get it to fit - with extreme force even then. I think there's a big difference in manufacturing tolerances at play and when you have two things that expand/contract/deform somewhat easily with heat... it's next to impossible to have a one-size-fits-all solution. Would be nice if you could get 1/2 sizes as I think a 10.5mm insert would have worked absolutely perfectly in my case.


----------



## motoray

I would prefer a little loose over tight. My insert from performance pcs was snug so i sanded it. That made it sticky. So i used doapy water to put it in, and just rinsed out the tubes with hot water then distilled.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> *I would prefer a little loose over tight.* My insert from performance pcs was snug so i sanded it. That made it sticky. So i used doapy water to put it in, and just rinsed out the tubes with hot water then distilled.


I was going to say that's the first time I've ever heard that, but then I realized you were talking about the Fittings.









TCO


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was going to say that's the first time I've ever heard that, but then I realized you were talking about the Fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Lol! But im talking silicon insert...... get ur mind out of the gutter.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I was going to say that's the first time I've ever heard that, but then I realized you were talking about the Fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Well, if it's tight enough that the solution is to use sandpaper... then I'm going to agree with him... regardless of what we're talking about.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> So i used *doapy* water




TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Our resident lens monkey and professional Serbian took some pics today.......















Thanks Atila.


----------



## Ceadderman

Would love it if they did colors again. My Supreme HF is getting lonely. As it is right now it's either clear or acetal.







.

~Ceadder


----------



## fa5terba11

@B NEGATIVE How did you color the plexi?


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Lol soapy... darn phones. But i like what u did.


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Worth the effort or nah?
> 
> In terms of the overall loop its an EK PE360 and EK CE280. The CE280 has push pull Corsair ML140's and the PE360 has the Jetflo's pushing and a little bit above that I have my Phanom 820's 200mm case fans, (replaced with Storm Force 200's).
> 
> I have my CPU (8370 @ 4.95) and 2 GPU's (2x Fury 3840's) on the loop. im just looking for the last few extra C's where I can find them.


Well it would not hurt, but to be honest i don't think it would lower your temps.. 1-2 at MAX if anything at all







But it might look better







and THAT is also important


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I found the Barrow 11mm insert (I'm using the 14/11 tubing from BP) didn't work too well but when I purchased an 11mm insert from BP it wouldn't fit at all - had to use a potato peeler to try to pull off small amounts of material to get it to fit - with extreme force even then. I think there's a big difference in manufacturing tolerances at play and when you have two things that expand/contract/deform somewhat easily with heat... it's next to impossible to have a one-size-fits-all solution. Would be nice if you could get 1/2 sizes as I think a 10.5mm insert would have worked absolutely perfectly in my case.


You would think if you buy the insert & tubing from the same company it would work with their products.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE How did you color the plexi?


Translucent paint over clear plastic primer.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I found the Barrow 11mm insert (I'm using the 14/11 tubing from BP) didn't work too well but when I purchased an 11mm insert from BP it wouldn't fit at all - had to use a potato peeler to try to pull off small amounts of material to get it to fit - with extreme force even then. I think there's a big difference in manufacturing tolerances at play and when you have two things that expand/contract/deform somewhat easily with heat... it's next to impossible to have a one-size-fits-all solution. Would be nice if you could get 1/2 sizes as I think a 10.5mm insert would have worked absolutely perfectly in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> You would think if you buy the insert & tubing from the same company it would work with their products.
Click to expand...

Typically it will but there can always be minor.deflection in the tubing, no matter how perfect their sizing during the manufacturing process.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Yea but seems anyone using alphacool on here lately has the same probably.


----------



## domrockt

my new and shiny Rig







mostly EKWB's a big Res and a random quite old pipedesign 360Rad. .. .. i need some more Rads in the near future, the 360 keep the temps just right..
my I7 [email protected] 4.2Ghz and the Fury Tri-X put A LOT of heat trough the system!!









atm i can do only benches @ 4.5 - 4.7 Ghz for 24/7 and gaming i need to go down to 4.2Ghz @ 1.2VCore... and still having 80°sh on the CPU..


----------



## Ceadderman

@emsj86

Cannot speak to that as I am on Monsoon hardline. But we still have the same issues. Any variance is typically a result of the manufacturing process. Occasionally there will be somebody who recieves a blue cord with their Red kit which is meant for 1/2"x5/8" bending, when they should've received a red insert.

In both cases (alpha cool and monsoon), I would suggest contacting the seller to get the correct one and be ready to submit the proper invoice information so as to not be charged more money for the item that should've come with the order in the first place. If the insert is too tight, then double check that the tubing is correct. If it is then a minor bit of sanding will get it to fit. But then again it will be sticky after being dunked in liquid. One way to deal with that is using some silicon lubricant or even some cheap olive oil. Both can be rinsed out so it shouldn't impact the loop in any way. Soap too.









~Ceadder


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domrockt*
> 
> my new and shiny Rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mostly EKWB's a big Res and a random quite old pipedesign 360Rad. .. .. i need some more Rads in the near future, the 360 keep the temps just right..
> my I7 [email protected] 4.2Ghz and the Fury Tri-X put A LOT of heat trough the system!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> atm i can do only benches @ 4.5 - 4.7 Ghz for 24/7 and gaming i need to go down to 4.2Ghz @ 1.2VCore... and still having 80°sh on the CPU..
> 
> ]


Just wondering how long have you been using those pneumatic fittings?

we have a ton of them at work just they are really designed for high/medium pressure and rely on this pressure to ensure a proper seal.
Also if you want a budget fitting I would suggest that you use a 1/2 inch barb and use 7/16 or 3/8 tube this will not require hose clips. (3/8 is very tight and will need to be cut to remove 7/16 is a little looser and can be removed with a little muscle)

the L/H tube has been off a few times so is damaged but this is 7/16 tube ID

Probably cheaper and aesthetically more pleasing.


----------



## domrockt

I use them since ever.. Never had a leak! Just be sure to put them right in and be sure to cut the tube in a 90° angle and you are good to go.

From an estetic point of view.. Hell they look like crap .. They are left over Form a previous build and i will replace them soon


----------



## nyk20z3

EK Gigabyte RGB Monoblock -


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Translucent paint over clear plastic primer.


@B NEGATIVE
My question is actually how did you do the black "Cracked Ice" effect or is it a laminate?


----------



## MNMadman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







*Project inFEKshun*:
AMD Ryzen 7 1700 AM4 CPU
ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero X370 ATX MB
G.Skill TridentZ RGB F4-3600C16D-16GTZR 2x8GB 3600 DDR4 RAM (Samsung B dies)
EVGA GTX 1080 Hydro Copper PCIe GPU
Samsung 960 Pro 2TB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD
Toshiba X300 4TB 7,200 RPM SATA HDD

Thermaltake Core P5 Green Edition Case
Seasonic SS-660XP2 660W PS

PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8" ID 5/8" OD Crystal Clear Tubing (10')
Thermaltake UV Green coolant (2L)
Thermaltake Pacific RL480 Radiator
Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 Silent Pump/Reservoir Combo
Thermaltake Riing 12 RGB 3-Pack Fans (3; 9 total fans)
EKWB EK-ACF 3/8" ID 5/8" OD Black Compression Fittings (12)
EKWB EK-Supremacy EVO Acetal+Copper CPU block with AMD Socket AM4 Support

Just missing some UV LEDs to get the coolant lit up -- will have those soon.

And yes, the fans are backwards compared to traditional mountings in this case. I did it to take advantage of the filter on the back intake, plus it runs cooler this way by several degrees Celsius.

Current speeds with 1002 BIOS: CPU @ 3.85GHz at 1.362v-1.381v (VDDCR_CPU), RAM @ 3200 14-14-14-14-34-1T at 1.351v, BCLK @ 100MHz, GPU @ 2138 core 5300 memory


----------



## Zamoldac

Back on the wet stuff.




First time doing a copper build, big thanks to B NEGATIVE for his great Pipe bending 101 thread







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lovely! Copper is by far and away my favorite metal.









~Ceadder


----------



## niklot1981




----------



## mouacyk

whoa... oh


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice build. What case is that?









~Ceadder


----------



## niklot1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice build. What case is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


IN WIN H FRAME 2.0


----------



## ruffhi

And the bitspower CPU block ... nice.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Worth the effort or nah?
> 
> In terms of the overall loop its an EK PE360 and EK CE280. The CE280 has push pull Corsair ML140's and the PE360 has the Jetflo's pushing and a little bit above that I have my Phanom 820's 200mm case fans, (replaced with Storm Force 200's).
> 
> I have my CPU (8370 @ 4.95) and 2 GPU's (2x Fury 3840's) on the loop. im just looking for the last few extra C's where I can find them.
> 
> 
> 
> Well it would not hurt, but to be honest i don't think it would lower your temps.. 1-2 at MAX if anything at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it might look better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and THAT is also important
Click to expand...

I was wondering if it would indeed look better. And that is my primary motivation.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would get Darkseid fans over the Corsair but that's just me.









~Ceadder


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I personally find that tube routing a little weird.
But the build at all looks gorgious! Nice colour scheme and that cpu-block is just a beauty!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> I personally find that tube routing a little weird.
> But the build at all looks gorgious! Nice colour scheme and that cpu-block is just a beauty!


I agree with both points - however, the tube routing definitely makes it unique! Maybe it looks a little weird because the tube runs are very flowing and organic but the case is very linear and modern looking.

Regardless, great color choices and fantastic photography as well!


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I agree with both points - however, the tube routing definitely makes it unique! Maybe it looks a little weird because the tube runs are very flowing and organic but the case is very linear and modern looking.
> 
> Regardless, great color choices and fantastic photography as well!


Good point! Maybe that's what made me scratch my head while still loving what I saw.
And the photographic quality really is top notch! Anyway... would love to see how it looks on a desk in it's regular setup.


----------



## Trestles126

S8 almost together setting up photo booth for some final photos. Meanwhile got my Asus 34 wall mounted with my iMac 27 above that I can toggle from a second PC display or use the iMac for iTunes and pictures


----------



## Jbravo33

Pics old to current. Started with ek predator 360 and has evolved since. Second ek block for gpus will be here Monday then I'll start final phase. Bitspower crystal link tubing and fittings. Hope it inspires and plenty on here have helped me get this far.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would get Darkseid fans over the Corsair but that's just me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have Darkside fans, I prefer Corsair ML Pros. Their just quieter & perform a bit better. Plus Corsair also has some sound dampening materials on theirs.

One thing I will say after using allot of fans over the years is. I will never ever use Thermaltake Products ever again. TT burned me by their so called "Premium" Fans. The software & Controller box is broken. Instead of fixing the problem what did they do? They released a new SKU with new software & modded controller box. Instead of fixing their broken products.

- End of Rant


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> One thing I will say after using allot of fans over the years is. I will never ever use Thermaltake Products ever again. TT burned me by their so called "Premium" Fans. The software & Controller box is broken. Instead of fixing the problem what did they do? They released a new SKU with new software & modded controller box. Instead of fixing their broken products.
> 
> - End of Rant


Hello and welcome to cost-effectiveness in business. Sorry it didn't work out for you, but this is done every day in the computing world.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I have Darkside fans, I prefer Corsair ML Pros. Their just quieter & perform a bit better. Plus Corsair also has some sound dampening materials on theirs.
> 
> One thing I will say after using allot of fans over the years is. I will never ever use Thermaltake Products ever again. TT burned me by their so called "Premium" Fans. The software & Controller box is broken. Instead of fixing the problem what did they do? They released a new SKU with new software & modded controller box. Instead of fixing their broken products.
> 
> - End of Rant


A premium turd is still a turd, not sure what you expected buying a TT product.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> A premium turd is still a turd, not sure what you expected buying a TT product.


I agree, there are at least 10 reasons I can think of not to buy TT.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> I agree, there are at least 10 reasons I can think of not to buy TT.


TT stuff (P5 Green Edition case, RL480 radiator, Silent pump/res combo, Riing fans, UV Green coolant) is working great for me, but everybody's mileage varies.


----------



## Excession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> TT stuff (P5 Green Edition case, RL480 radiator, Silent pump/res combo, Riing fans, UV Green coolant) is working great for me, but everybody's mileage varies.


Uh, are you aware that ThermalTake's radiators are aluminum?


----------



## emsj86

Really shouldn't cause a problem


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Really shouldn't cause a problem


Shouldn't cause a problem if the anti-corrosion precautions actually hold up. If not, TT isn't going to replace your ruined blocks. Not to mention they aren't even significantly cheaper and perform quite a bit worse than comparable copper radiators.

paying a couple bucks less for a sub-par performing radiator that might ruin your loop doesn't sound like a great deal to me.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Shouldn't cause a problem if the anti-corrosion precautions actually hold up. If not, TT isn't going to replace your ruined blocks. Not to mention they aren't even significantly cheaper and perform quite a bit worse than comparable copper radiators.
> 
> paying a couple bucks less for a sub-par performing radiator that might ruin your loop doesn't sound like a great deal to me.


And this is one of the reasons I dont like TT. Aluminum Rads are know to have causes issues. Add in poor buold quality, "emulating" other companies designs, history of reported poor customer service, the list goes on and on.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> Uh, are you aware that ThermalTake's radiators are aluminum?


As a matter of fact, I was fully aware before the purchase and still decided to buy it (*gasp!*). And I didn't choose it because of the price.

The hottest my CPU has ever gotten is 63°C, and the hottest my GPU has gotten is 41°C. Both of them are overclocked and over-volted. My last system had two -- yes two -- 360 radiators (XSPC EX360 Crossflow Series Copper) and performed about the same. The RL480 is not underperforming.

And even if I had a copper radiator, there are still other metals in the loop. You cannot guarantee that every single component is copper. That is why the vast majority of coolants have anti-corrosives. But even so, every single person running liquid cooling should be prepared for things to go wrong. And I am.

You all have had different experiences with TT products, but that doesn't mean TT is all bad all the time. And this thread is not the place to try to convince people not to buy TT products.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> As a matter of fact, I was fully aware before the purchase and still decided to buy it (*gasp!*). And I didn't choose it because of the price.
> 
> The hottest my CPU has ever gotten is 63°C, and the hottest my GPU has gotten is 41°C. Both of them are overclocked and over-volted. My last system had two -- yes two -- 360 radiators (XSPC EX360 Crossflow Series Copper) and performed about the same. The RL480 is not underperforming.
> 
> And even if I had a copper radiator, there are still other metals in the loop. *You cannot guarantee that every single component is copper.* That is why the vast majority of coolants have anti-corrosives. But even so, every single person running liquid cooling should be prepared for things to go wrong. And I am.
> 
> You all have had different experiences with TT products, but that doesn't mean TT is all bad all the time. And this thread is not the place to try to convince people not to buy TT products.


Actually,you kind of can.....

And Tt is bad all of the time,dont give them your money,buy ethically.


----------



## Excession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> And even if I had a copper radiator, there are still other metals in the loop. You cannot guarantee that every single component is copper. That is why the vast majority of coolants have anti-corrosives.


Copper, brass, and nickel have extremely similar anodic index values, so from a corrosion point of view they might as well be the same material. Steel will also be present in most loops (waterblock jetplates, D5 pumps), but its anodic index is still close enough that it shouldn't be problematic. Aluminum, on the other hand, has a drastically different anodic index and therefore makes corrosion very likely without some sort of anti-corrosive coolant or additive. If you took that into account when you bought it then that's fine, but there are people who don't know that that's a problem.

All of the other big-name watercooling parts suppliers use materials which play nicely with each other. It's perfectly reasonable to call out a manufacturer who uses a problematic material when the rest of the industry has become so user-friendly.


----------



## Alastair




----------



## Streetdragon

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*






the blue fans are destroyng it a bit.....


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the blue fans are destroyng it a bit.....
Click to expand...

How so? I dunno. I like it. Is it the self painted ML140's that put you off? The Azure blue VRM fan that does it? I tried to paint the VRM fan to match the VRM heatsink.

Maybe you would like it better if you saw running pics with the white LED's lighting up the interior?

Also I added an edit to my previous picture. I run my GPU's in parallel. I have a D5 pump. Would I see a benefit of I switched to serial? Load temps range from 42/40 to 50/46 depending on my ambient room temp which is a cool 21c on a nice day and 30C on a hot summers day. I don't have aircon.

I am still learning with my new DSLR camera. And so I don't think the exposure/white balance/iso is right. But regardless. Anyways since I took this picture I put the blue LED's back into my block.

Here are some running shots. I'm still learning with my DSLR carers. I don't think the exposure/white balance/iso was set right. Still learning. Since these pics I added my blue LED's back into my CPU block.





Edit: the pics don't look as good to me as they do in reality. Pictures are either too dark. Like components you can barely see. Or the camera over exposes the lights and it overpowers everything else. Just the lighting is better than the pics.


----------



## Streetdragon

when the fan is running it looks waaayyy better







while its off, it looks so "unnatural" compared to everything else. like not the right tint or so. metallic + to dark


----------



## Alan1187

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*





Legit the most beautiful computer I've seen. Mad props, love the work you did with the pipes.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> Uh, are you aware that ThermalTake's radiators are aluminum?


It feels like your building an AIO instead of a custom loop with TT watercooling supplies. Even Dazmode has taken jabs at TT & their products.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Hello and welcome to cost-effectiveness in business. Sorry it didn't work out for you, but this is done every day in the computing world.


So the company refuses to fix their broken product & customer support refuses to answer E-mails/forum post. So this is done every day? Yet companies like EK when theirs a problem they correct the problem or do a complete recall of the product.


----------



## Ceadderman

If this ain't the place to put people off a bad manufacturer who provides sucky watercooling(and other) parts then no thread exists for that purpose either. So I guess we fill OCN up with complaint theeads?









Sorry but Tt can suck my nether regions long before I will buy what their turd factory churns out.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Everyone has their own preferences and bad/good experiences with different companies.

People can take what they will from observations in this forum.

At some point though, one will buy a certain product from every company in the watercooling industry and have a problem with it.

TCO


----------



## Dortheleus

Well said


----------



## InfoSeeker

The measure of a company is not that they have a 100% product record, as stated above non do, but how they handle anomalies.


----------



## KaffieneKing

My small(ish) ITX rig, custom loop on the CPU, mostly EK parts, any questions just holla





Enjoy!


----------



## cdnvballer

I put this under Corsair thread, just got done with OS install last night


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdnvballer*
> 
> I put this under Corsair thread, just got done with OS install last night


Looks good, personally i'd stay with a nickel GPU block too to match the monoblock as well.


----------



## cdnvballer

Thx,
2 things I'll look into once I have to do maintenance on the loop
1) new waterblock (anyone use Phanteks PH- GB1080? )
2) maybe a different riser cable -- despite bad rep surrounding TT components,
I went ahead and got their "premium" cable... works thus far, didn't know what else was good/available on short notice =)


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdnvballer*
> 
> Thx,
> 2 things I'll look into once I have to do maintenance on the loop
> 1) new waterblock (anyone use Phanteks PH- GB1080? )
> 2) maybe a different riser cable -- despite bad rep surrounding TT components,
> I went ahead and got their "premium" cable... works thus far, didn't know what else was good/available on short notice =)


I've been using Lian Li's riser cable for a couple of years and they have been awesome, thermaltake doesn't really have the best rep in the PC community but their premium cables are decent, haven't heard too many complaints. I see a lot of cases and people going the vertical GPU mount, honestly i think it's awesome, showcases the beautiful block and you can see the water going through it. Plus it allows you to keep the case slim.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> As a matter of fact, I was fully aware before the purchase and still decided to buy it (*gasp!*). And I didn't choose it because of the price.
> 
> The hottest my CPU has ever gotten is 63°C, and the hottest my GPU has gotten is 41°C. Both of them are overclocked and over-volted. My last system had two -- yes two -- 360 radiators (XSPC EX360 Crossflow Series Copper) and performed about the same. The RL480 is not underperforming.
> 
> And even if I had a copper radiator, there are still other metals in the loop. You cannot guarantee that every single component is copper. That is why the vast majority of coolants have anti-corrosives. But even so, every single person running liquid cooling should be prepared for things to go wrong. And I am.
> 
> You all have had different experiences with TT products, but that doesn't mean TT is all bad all the time. And this thread is not the place to try to convince people not to buy TT products.


Aluminium's on the '****' scale of the corrosion table, 'stuffs nasty. If the actual tubes and ends of the radiator are copper or brass then it should be fine.

Intel's stock AIO coolers used all-aluminium, even with a deadly toxic amount of anti-freeze and anti-corrosion chemicals they still 'melt down' after a year or so.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Our resident lens monkey and professional Serbian took some pics today.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Atila.


The marbleized effect reminds me of marble/forged carbon fiber, like on the new Lamborghini. Always love your builds man!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Shouldn't cause a problem if the anti-corrosion precautions actually hold up. If not, TT isn't going to replace your ruined blocks. Not to mention they aren't even significantly cheaper and perform quite a bit worse than comparable copper radiators.
> 
> paying a couple bucks less for a sub-par performing radiator that might ruin your loop doesn't sound like a great deal to me.


Add to that: copper is naturally anti-microbial. Aluminum is not. No thanks! I'll spend the extra couple bucks on copper.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdnvballer*
> 
> I put this under Corsair thread, just got done with OS install last night


What did you use to mount the gpu vertically. Everywhere I look the bracket is out of stock and mountainmkds seem to fell off the earth


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What did you use to mount the gpu vertically. Everywhere I look the bracket is out of stock and mountainmkds seem to fell off the earth


Google Lian Li riser cable. That's the best one to use, they're pricey but very good quality and i have one i've been using for over a year with no issues. Stay away from the cheap thermaltake ones, go to that thread and you'll see why.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

almost done!

Just the EKWB Mono block to install!


----------



## cdnvballer

hmm I ordered it without any issues from Mountain Mods:
http://www.mountainmods.com/pci-modular-io-bracket-brushed-alu-p-701.html
http://www.mountainmods.com/pci-modular-io-bracket-anodized-black-p-754.html

hope that helps... was surprisingly easy install, minor work with a dremel and drill =)


----------



## cdnvballer

I like that Phanteks GPU Waterblock, I reached out to them yesterday and sadly it's won't work with NZXT HUE+ =\


----------



## Jbravo33

Probably first and last time I use petg least in this case. Not much space to work with makes it tough and of course the last two links top card to CPU block is giving me trouble. Not too good at bending this stuff. Think I'll stick to zmt in future. Almost done. Hopefully there's no leaks!!!!


----------



## madweazl

I found it extremely forgiving and surprisingly easy to use; do you have a heat gun?


----------



## Jbravo33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> I found it extremely forgiving and surprisingly easy to use; do you have a heat gun?


I do. I guess after the fact I can say it wasn't so bad. Just would rather have space to work with. So a much bigger case. And bending I'm not too good. Kept getting bubbles on the inside of the bend. Don't have a lot to practice on.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Anyone know of a "thin" walled norprene/ZMT like tube? I currently have Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing, but when I picked the CPU block apart over the weekend I saw that it was all gunked up from presumably plasticiser (the tubing looks perfectly fine though so I don't seem to have some of the more problematic issues that comes with it). Problem is that all my fittings are 10/13 and ZMT and Tygon Norprene is only available in 10/16, which is slightly annoying...

Any decent alternatives in that size?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Anyone know of a "thin" walled norprene/ZMT like tube? I currently have Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing, but when I picked the CPU block apart over the weekend I saw that it was all gunked up from presumably plasticiser (the tubing looks perfectly fine though so I don't seem to have some of the more problematic issues that comes with it). Problem is that all my fittings are 10/13 and ZMT and Tygon Norprene is only available in 10/16, which is slightly annoying...
> 
> Any decent alternatives in that size?


you can actually get neoprene tubing in that size, just not marketed specifically for water cooling.

found this after a quick google search, there probably are sources that sell it in smaller amounts.

Edit: seems like this is norprene, not neoprene. But it looks like a close enough material, might even be better.

Edit2: Here's some actual neoprene tubing in 10/13mm (3/8"/ 1/2")


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> you can actually get neoprene tubing in that size, just not marketed specifically for water cooling.
> 
> found this after a quick google search, there probably are sources that sell it in smaller amounts.
> 
> Edit: seems like this is norprene, not neoprene. But it looks like a close enough material, might even be better.
> 
> Edit2: Here's some actual neoprene tubing in 10/13mm (3/8"/ 1/2")


I see, I might look for it in smaller quantities then. It seemed strange to me that they would only be offered in 10/16 and 13/19, but I guess those are more common sizes for that kind of tubing.


----------



## sli_shroom

wet bench wasnt working for me (took up too much desk space and the loop sucked). so here is the latest rendition




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> wet bench wasnt working for me (took up too much desk space and the loop sucked). so here is the latest rendition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats lookin real good .









Exactly what I need too .

Tonnes of room for a dual loop .

All you would need is another pump and or res .


----------



## Jbravo33

Finally done after about 10 hours. First fill had leak at CPU block had to replace rubber seal.


----------



## FXformat

^^^ Looks great bud, i like all the subtle, uniformed lighting. I've been using those fans in all my builds and they work good enough for me, a lot of haters for those however.


----------



## dwolvin

I agree, Riings are pretty good (esp. since I got a few 140's at $11). Not to loud, move a good amount of air, and the lighting is cool (white in my fractal DefineXL). I also have some GT's, and I don't think they are much quieter. I think it's mostly just the ThermalTake hate, which seems at least partly deserved by their customer service.

But, to me the end all is that I won't pay $20 for a fan.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> I agree, Riings are pretty good (esp. since I got a few 140's at $11). Not to loud, move a good amount of air, and the lighting is cool (white in my fractal DefineXL). I also have some GT's, and I don't think they are much quieter. I think it's mostly just the ThermalTake hate, which seems at least partly deserved by their customer service.
> 
> But, to me the end all is that I won't pay $20 for a fan.


Yeah... I just swapped out my mixed noiseblocker set-up for just that reason, the Eloops were simply to expensive for me to ever get all 16 that I needed (so I ran 5 of them and 3 Arctic f12's in a push for a while). Those premium fans (GT, Noiseblocker, Noctua, Corsair ML... and so on) are actually a burden when you need lot's of fans in a set-up, buying 1 or 2 or even 4 is fine, but for builds requiring enormous amounts of fans it's just not worth it. As long as the fan is good, it doesn't matter who makes it.

There are other fans I would get before TT Riing fans though (Cooler Master Silencio for example), but that's more because I don't care about the LED ring.


----------



## dwolvin

Yea- the ringlight was not important, Fry's just happened to have them cheap. But it's cool to have some light in the case to check waterlevels and such. E-loops look so cool though!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Yea- the ringlight was not important, Fry's just happened to have them cheap. But it's cool to have some light in the case to check waterlevels and such. E-loops look so cool though!


They do, but the fact that they are horrible in a pull configuration and cost way to much just meant I was never going to be able to get the push/pull set-up that I wanted. Some fans that have really impressed me though is the Arctic Cooling F12, they perform so close to the Eloop that I just can't justify the Eloop's premium pricing. So I just bought another 13 Arctic F12 fans to have for my dual 480mm set-up, and at 4$ for each fan I have no idea why I would get something like Eloops again especially considering they are about 20$ a fan.


----------



## Jbravo33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> ^^^ Looks great bud, i like all the subtle, uniformed lighting. I've been using those fans in all my builds and they work good enough for me, a lot of haters for those however.


Thanks. Lots of mixed reviews on TT. But I like them (fans anyway). Def more for aesthetics than performance. I forced a third rad in the bottom and this thing stay cool. Fans on silent always. Only thing I hear now is the pump. Gpus hit 40 last night after hours of benching. CPU @4.6 will get to 70 during stress. But if I bring it down to 4.4 60 is where it gets to. I was going for a silent machine.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> I agree, Riings are pretty good (esp. since I got a few 140's at $11). Not to loud, move a good amount of air, and the lighting is cool (white in my fractal DefineXL). I also have some GT's, and I don't think they are much quieter. I think it's mostly just the ThermalTake hate, which seems at least partly deserved by their customer service.
> 
> But, to me the end all is that I won't pay $20 for a fan.


Their Customer Support (Or should I say what Customer Support), If you complain about something not working they just ignore you.

The Riing fans are garbage in my opinion. To this date I still haven't gotten any working riing fans from the normal to premium fans. Each pack had something wrong with them. I just gave up & went with Corsair & BeQuiet. I doubt I will ever touch any of their products every again.

I'll pay the premium price tag that some items have if it means I get working products & they will last.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone have any tips on connecting everything up to the GPU waterblock? I would just like some input & maybe someone see another way on connecting everything that I don't.

This what I have so far & it looks like I'm going have to grab one of those SLI pipes to connect the two bottom waterblocks. Doesn't look like I have enough room to connect two fittings with 16mm tubing.


----------



## dwolvin

GPU should probably be going in and leaving on different sides- that looks like it will flow right past the waterblock. Between the GPU and lower fitting you may need to use flexible tubing or assemble the entire unit on a bench and drop it in.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> GPU should probably be going in and leaving on different sides- that looks like it will flow right past the waterblock. Between the GPU and lower fitting you may need to use flexible tubing or assemble the entire unit on a bench and drop it in.


The one fitting I just put their to get out of the way. I'm only focused on GPU and below right now.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone have any tips on connecting everything up to the GPU waterblock? I would just like some input & maybe someone see another way on connecting everything that I don't.


Perhaps try the low profile Bitspower C48 fittings with the 2-slot SLI Links.
I would connect the two lower cards in parallel, and then to the GPU as a series connection.

C48 Fittings
SLI Link


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any tips on connecting everything up to the GPU waterblock? I would just like some input & maybe someone see another way on connecting everything that I don't.
> 
> This what I have so far & it looks like I'm going have to grab one of those SLI pipes to connect the two bottom waterblocks. Doesn't look like I have enough room to connect two fittings with 16mm tubing.


The two bottom cards don't look line up, but I could be wrong there (if they are then some SLI fittings or crystal link might be a good choice). If they don't line up then unfortunatly you will have to get a bit creative with how you do things, straight or 90* fittings of the side to connect the two cards that way.

Now if you can connect them with SLI fittings then I would do the following:
- Connect the bottom 2 blocks with 1 SLI fitting/crystal link
- run from the top of the bottom cards in to the unused bottom port of the GPU.
- then a parallel run to the CPU and back to the GPU. (or alternatively a run to memory cooling if you use that)
- Exit out the bottom port of the GPU

I'm just a sucker for parallel runs, and I think you could get an interesting one by doing it like that.


----------



## iBerggman

Quick reservoir question:

Do I have any other options other than XSPC Photon or Aqualis if I want a glass D5 pump combo, preferrably with a tube diameter of ~80mm? I feel like there's some reservoir I'm forgetting...

Also I'd appreciate any input as to which one of these I should go for. I like both about equally in terms of looks but if I recall correctly the Aqualis isn't very good in terms of pump performance so I'm a little hesitant about sacrificing performance and 100€+ for aesthetics, I have no idea about the how the xspc's performance compares though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> Quick reservoir question:
> 
> Do I have any other options other than XSPC Photon or Aqualis if I want a glass D5 pump combo, preferrably with a tube diameter of ~80mm? I feel like there's some reservoir I'm forgetting...
> 
> Also I'd appreciate any input as to which one of these I should go for. I like both about equally in terms of looks but if I recall correctly the Aqualis isn't very good in terms of pump performance so I'm a little hesitant about sacrificing performance and 100€+ for aesthetics, I have no idea about the how the xspc's performance compares though.


Why Do you need a glass res?

TCO


----------



## Kimir

He said *want*, no _needed_ reason for that.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> He said *want*, no _needed_ reason for that.




TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> Quick reservoir question:
> 
> Do I have any other options other than XSPC Photon or Aqualis if I want a glass D5 pump combo, preferrably with a tube diameter of ~80mm? I feel like there's some reservoir I'm forgetting...
> 
> Also I'd appreciate any input as to which one of these I should go for. I like both about equally in terms of looks but if I recall correctly the Aqualis isn't very good in terms of pump performance so I'm a little hesitant about sacrificing performance and 100€+ for aesthetics, I have no idea about the how the xspc's performance compares though.
> 
> 
> 
> Why Do you need a glass res?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> He said *want*, no _needed_ reason for that.


If you take out the "need" for glass, then that opens up the 80mm Koolance range of res's and parts.

Unless you go to incredible lengths to keep all dust cleaned away, the visual difference between glass and non-glass res tubes pretty much fades away after a month or so anyway.

The visual difference between an 80mm res and a 60mm res, never fades.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> Quick reservoir question:
> 
> Do I have any other options other than XSPC Photon or Aqualis if I want a glass D5 pump combo, preferrably with a tube diameter of ~80mm? I feel like there's some reservoir I'm forgetting...
> 
> Also I'd appreciate any input as to which one of these I should go for. I like both about equally in terms of looks but if I recall correctly the Aqualis isn't very good in terms of pump performance so I'm a little hesitant about sacrificing performance and 100€+ for aesthetics, I have no idea about the how the xspc's performance compares though.


https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x4-250


----------



## VSG

Yeah the new EK one looks good. There's also the Heatkiller Tube from Watercool.


----------



## emsj86

Just be warned the Heatkiller tune while awesome and well built requires an extra purchase of mounting hardware and a multi port top if needed. So it gets pricey for a reservoir. I will be putting mine in hanks to Ibruce this coming week


----------



## Drizztly

I use the Aqualis XT 450ml because it has the fill level sensor. Otherwise I'd go with the Heatkiller tube! Way better system for holding the glass tube in place. The Aqualis needs to be tighten really good to seal properly


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The two bottom cards don't look line up, but I could be wrong there (if they are then some SLI fittings or crystal link might be a good choice). If they don't line up then unfortunatly you will have to get a bit creative with how you do things, straight or 90* fittings of the side to connect the two cards that way.
> 
> Now if you can connect them with SLI fittings then I would do the following:
> - Connect the bottom 2 blocks with 1 SLI fitting/crystal link
> - run from the top of the bottom cards in to the unused bottom port of the GPU.
> - then a parallel run to the CPU and back to the GPU. (or alternatively a run to memory cooling if you use that)
> - Exit out the bottom port of the GPU
> 
> I'm just a sucker for parallel runs, and I think you could get an interesting one by doing it like that.


Thanks for the tips, I don't use memory waterblocks (I just have a MonoBlock for my CPU/Motherboard).

The bottom cards are not screwed in at all or even placed straight atm. It's placed that way so I can remove them and place them somewhere else if needed.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> Quick reservoir question:
> 
> Do I have any other options other than XSPC Photon or Aqualis if I want a glass D5 pump combo, preferrably with a tube diameter of ~80mm? I feel like there's some reservoir I'm forgetting...
> 
> Also I'd appreciate any input as to which one of these I should go for. I like both about equally in terms of looks but if I recall correctly the Aqualis isn't very good in terms of pump performance so I'm a little hesitant about sacrificing performance and 100€+ for aesthetics, I have no idea about the how the xspc's performance compares though.


Currently my favorite is WaterCool HeatKiller Tube. The quality of this res is amazing. I have two of them going into my current build.

I have MoonSoon MMRS in my other PC. It looks great, They have some QA issue with their end caps & screw inlets becoming stripped very easily.

XSPC Just released Version 2 of their res, I don't know how it fairs. Version 1 had some issue with some of the ports becoming stripped very easily (Since plastic was used for the ports).

Also AlphaCool res is good res as well, I had it running in a old build, Very good results & quiet too (Not allot of vibrations from the pump to the res)


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just be warned the Heatkiller tune while awesome and well built requires an extra purchase of mounting hardware and a multi port top if needed. So it gets pricey for a reservoir. I will be putting mine in hanks to Ibruce this coming week


The Multi Port top can be added for Free if you buy directly from WaterCool. The only extra item needed is the mounting hardware.


----------



## nycgtr

The ek 250 mounted to me looks like the top of a blender to me. I have a bitspower 250ml and I think that looks much better.


----------



## Lee0

Made a thread here: LINK Asking for some advice and/ or tips regarding my plan for my new loop in the Mastercase Pro 6 chassis but I figured that I could come here directly and ask a question.
Will my pump be strong enough for the hole loop? Is that amount of tubing excessive?
Here is the components list:

(Ignore the SSD)
Thanks for any help!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> Made a thread here: LINK Asking for some advice and/ or tips regarding my plan for my new loop in the Mastercase Pro 6 chassis but I figured that I could come here directly and ask a question.
> Will my pump be strong enough for the *hole* loop? Is that amount of tubing excessive?
> Here is the components list:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> **
> 
> 
> (Ignore the SSD)
> Thanks for any help!


Whole, Hole. Two different meanings.

TCO


----------



## Lee0

Ops
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Whole, Hole. Two different meanings.
> 
> TCO


Certainly true. x) Didn't quite catch that mistake when I was writing my post. Silly Swede.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> Ops
> Certainly true. x) Didn't quite catch that mistake when I was writing my post. Silly Swede.


10 ft of tubing is fine. 3m to inches is 118" / 12" = 9.83" of soft tubing.

TCO


----------



## iBerggman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> He said *want*, no _needed_ reason for that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you take out the "need" for glass, then that opens up the 80mm Koolance range of res's and parts.
> 
> Unless you go to incredible lengths to keep all dust cleaned away, the visual difference between glass and non-glass res tubes pretty much fades away after a month or so anyway.
> 
> The visual difference between an 80mm res and a 60mm res, never fades.


Yeah, it's definitely not a need for glass, I just like the idea of using glass instead of plastic. It's like with case sidepanels, durability aside I'm not 100% convinced the tempered glass on my In Win 303 looks any better than acrylic would... still nice to know it's glass.









The Koolance 80mm reservoirs look decent, not sure what to think about the visible threads on the tube though... but looking at builds using the res the threads don't seem to be visible so might not be an issue in reality.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Currently my favorite is WaterCool HeatKiller Tube. The quality of this res is amazing. I have two of them going into my current build.
> 
> I have MoonSoon MMRS in my other PC. It looks great, They have some QA issue with their end caps & screw inlets becoming stripped very easily.
> 
> XSPC Just released Version 2 of their res, I don't know how it fairs. Version 1 had some issue with some of the ports becoming stripped very easily (Since plastic was used for the ports).
> 
> Also AlphaCool res is good res as well, I had it running in a old build, Very good results & quiet too (Not allot of vibrations from the pump to the res)


Hmm, I usually prefer a more "clean" look but the more I look at the Heatkiller and Monsoon reservoirs the more I like them. I have to google some more before I decide, can't really find many builds with them though.

But I still might have to give the Photon a go, it seems the pump/res combo is compatible with bitspowers d5 mod kits. Looks really nice I think:



Spoiler: Example





Link



Thanks for your input


----------



## Revan654

I know theirs plenty of people used both, Google fails to pick up the photos. It might be a better idea to search through build logs forum.

HeatKiller in my option is worth getting. Plus the glass will not obtain scratches (Unless you try very very hard). I can't say the same for my Moon Res tube(Which is acrylic).


----------



## DarthBaggins

cant't wait to get this mounted and added to the loop. . took forever to get the family and myself up to Nantucket from Atlanta. . . We had a two day delay in middle of nowhere Virginia while my son was sick.


----------



## krutoydiesel

GTX 1080 TI FE OEM backplate *works* with EKWB Titan X(pascal waterblock.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> Made a thread here: LINK Asking for some advice and/ or tips regarding my plan for my new loop in the Mastercase Pro 6 chassis but I figured that I could come here directly and ask a question.
> Will my pump be strong enough for the hole loop? Is that amount of tubing excessive?
> Here is the components list:
> 
> (Ignore the SSD)
> Thanks for any help!


Yes 6m of tubing is excessive, but 3m is right within. You could also ditch the tube cutters for just a decent pair of scissors as the compression fittings will cover any slightly uneven cuts that you make. I would also go for 10/16 tubing and fittings if you can as that leaves the option for norprene and ZMT tubing later on if you get annoyed by the plasticizer (as long as the price is similar). The pump is also more than strong enough for that amount of blocks and rads.

Oh and if you can handle shipping across the border, then I have some rads that you might be interested in (going to put them up for sale next week at a Norwegian page).


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> cant't wait to get this mounted and added to the loop. . took forever to get the family and myself up to Nantucket from Atlanta. . . We had a two day delay in middle of nowhere Virginia while my son was sick.


At least you got there before the weather rolls in tomorrow.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah, I'll have a plumbing day tomorrow - add the 1080 to the loop (PC plumbing) and then have to replace a wax ring/seal on the upstairs toilet lol. More than likely the island will just get rain while the mainland gets the "wintry mix"


----------



## Deeptek

Some photos from my latest build. Better photos coming soon!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> He said *want*, no _needed_ reason for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you take out the "need" for glass, then that opens up the 80mm Koolance range of res's and parts.
> 
> Unless you go to incredible lengths to keep all dust cleaned away, the visual difference between glass and non-glass res tubes pretty much fades away after a month or so anyway.
> 
> The visual difference between an 80mm res and a 60mm res, never fades.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, it's definitely not a need for glass, I just like the idea of using glass instead of plastic. It's like with case sidepanels, durability aside I'm not 100% convinced the tempered glass on my In Win 303 looks any better than acrylic would... still nice to know it's glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Koolance 80mm reservoirs look decent, not sure what to think about the visible threads on the tube though... but looking at builds using the res the threads don't seem to be visible so might not be an issue in reality.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Currently my favorite is WaterCool HeatKiller Tube. The quality of this res is amazing. I have two of them going into my current build.
> 
> I have MoonSoon MMRS in my other PC. It looks great, They have some QA issue with their end caps & screw inlets becoming stripped very easily.
> 
> XSPC Just released Version 2 of their res, I don't know how it fairs. Version 1 had some issue with some of the ports becoming stripped very easily (Since plastic was used for the ports).
> 
> Also AlphaCool res is good res as well, I had it running in a old build, Very good results & quiet too (Not allot of vibrations from the pump to the res)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, I usually prefer a more "clean" look but the more I look at the Heatkiller and Monsoon reservoirs the more I like them. I have to google some more before I decide, can't really find many builds with them though.
> 
> But I still might have to give the Photon a go, it seems the pump/res combo is compatible with bitspowers d5 mod kits. Looks really nice I think:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Example
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input
Click to expand...

Take a look at the monsoon thread if you haven't already. I've also built 3 rigs with monsoon reservoirs, links in my sig. I haven't seen too many builds with the Heatkiller res, but there's not a million options to see like monsoon.


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yes 6m of tubing is excessive, but 3m is right within. You could also ditch the tube cutters for just a decent pair of scissors as the compression fittings will cover any slightly uneven cuts that you make. I would also go for 10/16 tubing and fittings if you can as that leaves the option for norprene and ZMT tubing later on if you get annoyed by the plasticizer (as long as the price is similar). The pump is also more than strong enough for that amount of blocks and rads.
> 
> Oh and if you can handle shipping across the border, then I have some rads that you might be interested in (going to put them up for sale next week at a Norwegian page).


Thank you very much sir! ^^


----------



## Jokesterwild

Wired in a temperature screen for my water temp probe. The probe is right after the cpu/gpu/pump. Hard to photograph in this room











Even measures in American (Fahrenheit)


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> Made a thread here: LINK Asking for some advice and/ or tips regarding my plan for my new loop in the Mastercase Pro 6 chassis but I figured that I could come here directly and ask a question.
> Will my pump be strong enough for the hole loop? Is that amount of tubing excessive?
> Here is the components list:
> 
> (Ignore the SSD)
> Thanks for any help!


That particular pump and res combo is very low powered. It will work, just as any pump will, but a better pump will give you much better flow rates. The DC-LT is very low cost but pumps are probably the last thing to skimp on in water cooling. A good one will last many years and can be used in future systems with no issues at all. Its harder to say that about most other water cooling gear.
https://www.alphacool.com/shop/pumpen/pumpen-mit-agb/20557/alphacool-eisfach-single-laing-dc-lt-dual-5-25-bay-station-inkl.-1x-alphacool-dc-lt-2400?c=20556

I would always recommend a d5 or DDC version even if it's just the same version of reservoir.
https://www.alphacool.com/shop/pumpen/pumpen-mit-agb/20554/alphacool-eisfach-single-laing-d5-dual-5-25-bay-station-inkl.-1x-alphacool-vpp655?c=20556

I think there are much better pump/res combos to be had from other brands though. Bay res pumps are convenient, especially in smaller cases, but are always noisier than pumps that can be mounted elsewhere. A good tube pump/res combo can be mounted just about anywhere and when done right is the best combination of aesthetics, size and silence. The back of one of your rads is a great place to mount.


----------



## Ceadderman

Anyone else experience a sort of "drying" effect when using Hydronaut?

I used it to apply TIM on the chip of my RX 480 and I swear it felt like the TIM had started drying when I went to use it. Something like 5 minutes after applying the spreader nozzle to the tube and when I actually needed some.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> That particular pump and res combo is very low powered. It will work, just as any pump will, but a better pump will give you much better flow rates. The DC-LT is very low cost but pumps are probably the last thing to skimp on in water cooling. A good one will last many years and can be used in future systems with no issues at all. Its harder to say that about most other water cooling gear.
> https://www.alphacool.com/shop/pumpen/pumpen-mit-agb/20557/alphacool-eisfach-single-laing-dc-lt-dual-5-25-bay-station-inkl.-1x-alphacool-dc-lt-2400?c=20556
> 
> I would always recommend a d5 or DDC version even if it's just the same version of reservoir.
> https://www.alphacool.com/shop/pumpen/pumpen-mit-agb/20554/alphacool-eisfach-single-laing-d5-dual-5-25-bay-station-inkl.-1x-alphacool-vpp655?c=20556
> 
> I think there are much better pump/res combos to be had from other brands though. Bay res pumps are convenient, especially in smaller cases, but are always noisier than pumps that can be mounted elsewhere. A good tube pump/res combo can be mounted just about anywhere and when done right is the best combination of aesthetics, size and silence. The back of one of your rads is a great place to mount.


Right... I didn't see that that was a combo that used DL-LT, I actually just assumed it was a DDC







Anyway, @Lee0 here are some good alternatives at the same store:

- This is the EKWB EK-DBAY D5, it's quite a bit more expensive than the other alternatives that I will list, but it is a bay reservoir if you absolutely need that.
- This would be the cheapest decent tube/res combo that they have, it's going to be enough to power your loop for years, but the pump does get a bit hot so you might consider one of the others which has a built in heatsink.
- another DDC based unit with a built on heatsink for keeping the pump cool
- Same as the previous one just with a bit bigger reservoir for looks if you have the space.
- This is probably the best choice as it comes with mounting hardware and it's a relatively quiet pump.

This is probably goung to be the easiest way to mount one of the DDC based units, as it can be mounted to one of the fans one a radiator.

Feel free to ask any other questions you might have.


----------



## eucalyptus

I am back


----------



## 0ldChicken

@eucalyptus That is very interesting and I really dig the aesthetic







What is it cooling though?


----------



## FXformat

YEah looks like a V8 engine, what's going on in that res? I like it, looks like frog eggs


----------



## ivannooz

So i've been always wanted to build a custom loop build but i'm always afraid not to get the right parts and negativity of leaks, maintenance but honestly it's not that hard you just have to put time and effort. This case was sponsored to one of my subcribers, also my m2 ssd 2600mbps. I went black and gold thus naming it Anubis! This build is not yet finished still waiting for my vinyl stickers and led backplate that has anubis sketched on it. 1080 Ti with Titan X pascal gpu block fits perfectly well i also have video on how to install the gpu block. Fort this build my max temp on CPU 4.8 75c and for the GPU +160mhz core 45c i'm so happy for this build it gives me what i need for my ULTRAWIDE MONITOR.

.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> @eucalyptus That is very interesting and I really dig the aesthetic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is it cooling though?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> YEah looks like a V8 engine, what's going on in that res? I like it, looks like frog eggs


Thanks guys





































Not cooling anything at the moment. Will be connected to a PC when the time is right







Working on it, I mean, the PC









I am glad you like it, the aesthetics are probably the most important thing for me, where I spend all my creativity and money, so it's very appreciated you noticed









Frog eggs, damn hahah just bubbles caught in the right moment. Somehow the reservoirs are getting a ton of foam. Mayhems believes it could be the dye, so they are sending me some chemicals to try out









If you want all pictures you have to find my facebookpage, just search my name, Sebastian Edemalm, I believe links to facebook isn't allowed here


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivannooz*


Build looks good but 75c on the cpu and 45c on the gpu with 2 360s doesn't sound right. I would personally reapply thermal paste and try to re seat the processor.


----------



## nycgtr

Ryzen 1800x + Tx-p Sli.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> Ryzen 1800x + Tx-p Sli.


Looks 1000x better than before, these rads make a huge difference, i can see your CPU block now...


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ryzen 1800x + Tx-p Sli.


That is both tight, and tite.


----------



## murakume

Well, this is my first custom loop build, so I went big. EKWB X360 kit, a Thermaltake RL240, and some various fittings from Barrow. Will try to get better pictures of it running, hopefully in decent light sometime soon. The system has been up and running a few weeks now since this picture and have had no problems. Definitely overkill for just the CPU.



So far the GPU has been changed out to an MSI 1080 Ti Armor and am planning on adding it to the loop when a block becomes available. When that happens I'm going to drill holes in the bottom of the case to relocate the pump, don't like it on the universal mount right next to the power supply. Would love to make the switch to PET-G tubing, but I don't see myself spending the coin on the fittings for a while


----------



## failwheeldrive

Personally wouldn't feel comfortable running an aluminum rad with an otherwise copper/brass loop. I'd ditch the 240mm radiator and avoid risking galvanic corrosion destroying your other components. Like you mentioned, your loop is overkill anyway, so you won't see a drop in performance without the 240.


----------



## murakume

I may do something about it, the major factor of the RL240 was the top inlet. Completely dropping the second radiator isn't an option though since.. well that's what I want lol and the 1080 Ti can use all the help it can get whenever a block becomes available for non-reference PCBs. Could drop it until that time comes though, no real reason not to besides me not wanting to go through draining, running new tubing, and filling again.

Do you know of any copper/brass based radiators with the same-ish layout of ports? I'm going to be rebuilding the loop in the next month or so, anything constructive is welcome.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murakume*
> 
> I may do something about it, the major factor of the RL240 was the top inlet. Completely dropping the second radiator isn't an option though since.. well that's what I want lol and the 1080 Ti can use all the help it can get whenever a block becomes available for non-reference PCBs. Could drop it until that time comes though, no real reason not to besides me not wanting to go through draining, running new tubing, and filling again.
> 
> Do you know of any copper/brass based radiators with the same-ish layout of ports? I'm going to be rebuilding the loop in the next month or so, anything constructive is welcome.


There's a few with caps on the end. Dazmode has one, so does alphacool, and xspc has some similar types.


----------



## ruffhi

Isn't that a drain port? If you use it for running your loop ... don't you end up only using half of that radiator?


----------



## pknut

This is my dream PC, MBX MKII TRON edition.

I started watercooling 10 years ago and this is the end for me now. Loved every minute on this build. I hand bent the copper pipes and had them chrome electroplated.


----------



## murakume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Isn't that a drain port? If you use it for running your loop ... don't you end up only using half of that radiator?










Maybe....... yes. Had to double check, but you're right. I'm using half that radiator. And this is why I put it up here lol I haven't had any issues with heat, but had that little feeling of "there's probably a better way." I have a 4 way splitter on the port closest to the motherboard tray going to a ball valve, gonna have to switch things up. Luckily I bought extra tubing.

Sincerely appreciate the nuggets of knowledge, had never done a custom loop and admittedly I didn't look into the Thermaltake radiator very much before ordering it.


----------



## Ceadderman

In the future, you can double check OCN if you have questions about a product. We are a pretty vocal bunch when it comes to quality or lack thereof.









I just avoid Tt altogether.









~Ceadder


----------



## jestereightfour

Primochill Praxis Wetbench

ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z

AMD FX-8350 @ 5GHz

G.Skill Trident X @ 10-12-11-28-46 2100MHz

PC Power & Cooling Silencer 850

Radeon RX480

EK DDC 3.1 Pump/Res

XSPC Raystorm CPU Block 20c idle/ 48c full load


----------



## Ceadderman

5.0ghz on that FX8350???









More believable under custom loop than what I read on a sale thread with the same board and simalar chip setup at 4.8 under an h70. Good job.









~Ceadder


----------



## jestereightfour

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 5.0ghz on that FX8350???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More believable under custom loop than what I read on a sale thread with the same board and simalar chip setup at 4.8 under an h70. Good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you sir! It surprised me too actually. So far no freeze ups or BSODs in any benchmarks or games. I tried booting in to windows at 5.2 last night under 1.5vCore and it said no. I may try upping to 1.55v just to see what this chip is up to..


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murakume*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe....... yes. Had to double check, but you're right. I'm using half that radiator. And this is why I put it up here lol I haven't had any issues with heat, but had that little feeling of "there's probably a better way." I have a 4 way splitter on the port closest to the motherboard tray going to a ball valve, gonna have to switch things up. Luckily I bought extra tubing.
> 
> Sincerely appreciate the nuggets of knowledge, had never done a custom loop and admittedly I didn't look into the Thermaltake radiator very much before ordering it.


If you want to make your runs like that then something like this radiator is likely the only solution. Otherwise doing runs like that will as you and others mentioned just use half the radiator.


----------



## murakume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> If you want to make your runs like that then something like this radiator is likely the only solution. Otherwise doing runs like that will as you and others mentioned just use half the radiator.


I'll be buying a different radiator for sure, as the galvanic corrosion just wasn't something I was thinking about when piecing everything together. The main thought behind how I laid it out was to keep from having a huge run in the front of the case. The more I look at it, the more I'm thinking about using a different case all together. I won't horrify anybody with a picture of the front panel, but you can probably imagine I had to *ahem* clearance it to account for the fans being on the outside of the radiator rather than inside. It was fun though trying to stuff all of this inside of a Define S and I've definitely caught the bug.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> In the future, you can double check OCN if you have questions about a product. We are a pretty vocal bunch when it comes to quality or lack thereof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just avoid Tt altogether.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


About 5 years or so ago I purchased a Thermaltake Water 2.0 pro (AIO) to cool my cpu. It worked great for the time I used it. But once I decided to remove it to go custom, I ran into a problem. The backplate was made of plastic. The screws that hold the block down are screwed into metal parts that slide into the plastic backplate.

It turns out that this can strip so when I tried to unscrew it, the knob just twisted and spun the metal part. I wound up having to butt-clenchingly use my dremel to cut the plastic around the backplate there in to expose the metal part enough (without gouging my mobo) so I could grab it with pliers. I swore off Thermaltake until this year when I wound up forgetting that I swore them off and purchased a View 31 case. Fortunately, it's actually quite nice. I still don't want to purchase any of their watercooling parts though.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> About 5 years or so ago I purchased a Thermaltake Water 2.0 pro (AIO) to cool my cpu. It worked great for the time I used it. But once I decided to remove it to go custom, I ran into a problem. The backplate was made of plastic. The screws that hold the block down are screwed into metal parts that slide into the plastic backplate.
> 
> It turns out that this can strip so when I tried to unscrew it, the knob just twisted and spun the metal part. I wound up having to butt-clenchingly use my dremel to cut the plastic around the backplate there in to expose the metal part enough (without gouging my mobo) so I could grab it with pliers. I swore off Thermaltake until this year when I wound up forgetting that I swore them off and purchased a View 31 case. Fortunately, it's actually quite nice. I still don't want to purchase any of their watercooling parts though.


Yeah... so, that would actually be a general Asetek issue and not a Thermaltake specific one. It happened on my NZXT kraken X40 and I'm quite sure it has happened on more or less any of the kits delivered by Asetek. It could be that they have changed the backplate by now, but I just wanted to make it clear that just this once ThermalTake was actually not to blame.

That said, they have more than enough of their own products that they really can and should be blamed for.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> About 5 years or so ago I purchased a Thermaltake Water 2.0 pro (AIO) to cool my cpu. It worked great for the time I used it. But once I decided to remove it to go custom, I ran into a problem. The backplate was made of plastic. The screws that hold the block down are screwed into metal parts that slide into the plastic backplate.
> 
> It turns out that this can strip so when I tried to unscrew it, the knob just twisted and spun the metal part. I wound up having to butt-clenchingly use my dremel to cut the plastic around the backplate there in to expose the metal part enough (without gouging my mobo) so I could grab it with pliers. I swore off Thermaltake until this year when I wound up forgetting that I swore them off and purchased a View 31 case. Fortunately, it's actually quite nice. I still don't want to purchase any of their watercooling parts though.


On mine I just squeezed the plastic with pliers, however this was the AM3 bracket so the plastic was thinner. In your case I would have either used a screwdriver to wedge the pin, scraped the plastic away or pried the pin out. Or I would have just screwed something into the end of it if there was enough clearance, rotating a nut with two bolts in it results in one side getting tight and the other loose.


----------



## Ceadderman

I owned one of the first Asetek coolers to be branded by another company. Corsair h50 had the same backplate design but I never had a problem removing it when I went full custom. My experience does not mean that yours wasn't the norm. I may have had better luck in the process. I sincerely would capped puppies if I had that ecoerience.









~Ceadder


----------



## paskowitz

I'd really appreciate everyone's quick opinion on something. Do you think the design of this custom res will impact flow rate (get close to block resistance)? I'll be running a D5. Would it be worth loosening the pattern a bit?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'd really appreciate everyone's quick opinion on something. Do you think the design of this custom res will impact flow rate (get close to block resistance)? I'll be running a D5. Would it be worth loosening the pattern a bit?


I would loosen it if I was making it, at the moment it looks like a highly restrictive block due to it's size (though a d5 is likely going to handle it). I also think it would look just as impressive if you increase the size/spacing for the reservoir.


----------



## paskowitz

@Rainmaker91, I tend to agree. New question. I just flushed my new HWL GTR rad 5 times with hot distilled water and I'm still getting flux noises when I shake the rad. Water is clear but it sounds like there is still a lot in there. https://soundcloud.com/amp-193628057/record-0002

I'm going to try distilled vinegar, then flushing with distilled water and my pump. If that doesn't work, should I get a replacement? Or is this safe to put in a loop?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> @Rainmaker91, I tend to agree. New question. I just flushed my new HWL GTR rad 5 times with hot distilled water and I'm still getting flux noises when I shake the rad. Water is clear but it sounds like there is still a lot in there. https://soundcloud.com/amp-193628057/record-0002
> 
> I'm going to try distilled vinegar, then flushing with distilled water and my pump. If that doesn't work, should I get a replacement? Or is this safe to put in a loop?


If you are using vinegar in the mix you might as well let it stay filled up for a while to let it work it's "magic", hopefully that might loosen up anything that is left in the rad.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pmHVO5S4j

https://imageshack.com/i/pnSuoQUsj

Hoping the matching 1080ti block arrives this week.


----------



## Ceadderman

One of the better looking HK blocks I have seen in quite awhile.









~Ceadder


----------



## paskowitz

A game of millimeters.


----------



## nycgtr

i agree


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> i agree


Lol. Evolv life.


----------



## seven7thirty30

My newest build. First time working with stainless steel tubing. Build Log link in my Sig.


----------



## Ceadderman

Posting my potato pic of my 8gb RX 480 OC Edition with the Acetal/Copper block mounted with a couple pieces of Monsoon Hardline tubes...



Cannot wait to get things up and running. Still need the new EK GPU rotary adapter and backplate. Also waiting for Crooshair VI Hero and Monoblock. For now it sits in the AS bag in the EK RX 480 box.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Being that I was told PETG is a no go for Mayhems Pastel Extreme what brand matches well with bitspower 12mm fittings. Looking for Acrylic tubing. Thanks


----------



## Scottland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Being that I was told PETG is a no go for Mayhems Pastel Extreme what brand matches well with bitspower 12mm fittings. Looking for Acrylic tubing. Thanks


Bitspower do 12mm Acrylic


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Bitspower do 12mm Acrylic


Hmmm did not see them on ppcs thought they did crystal link (acrylic) but only small lengths


----------



## kot0005




----------



## nycgtr

Great look build. One suggestion.., Remove that geforce logo, unless of course you got a black leather jacket as a condition to rock it.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So... I'm not entirely sure this is the correct place to ask, but I guess you guys have as much knowledge as anyone on the subject. I'm thinking of building a PC for my brother, and while I would love to build him a custom loop I can't exactly expect him to take on the responsibility of maintaining it. Thus I have been looking at AIO solutions, more specifically the NZXT Kraken series (since if I remember correctly they have a decent noise level for the pumps). I would also put one on the GPU either using custom brackets (I have some of Richie's laying around) or by using the Kraken g10.

My biggest concern at this point other than the annoying pump noise that comes with these solutions, would be that most AIO solutions are mixed metal loops. Which is something I would like to avert if possible, but I'm not sure if anything has improved on that front since I last worked with AIO coolers in 2014 (I know Fractal Designs, Swiftech and EKWBs solutions are all copper/nickel).

What do you guys think?


----------



## KaffieneKing

I would just get a big air cooler and a custom cooled GPU solution, probably quieter and less maintenance.

I had CLCs for ages and they are not good enough. Custom loop for enthusiasts (who want that sort of thing) and air for those who don't want the maintenance.


----------



## Anfs

Hi All
I enjoy going through this thread and seeing all the excellent pc's on display and also getting ideas for my own builds.
So I thought I would post a few pics of my latest build.
I decided I would give the Chromed black brass hard tubing a go on this build and I am pretty pleased with how it turned out.
The only thing that I felt abit nervous about was the Alphacool fittings made for these hard tubes felt a little too loose for my liking so I had to put a tiny amount of locktight glue were the pipe meets the fitting on the outside.
As I was not comfortable with having a loose fitting over the top of a thousand dollar video card.
It made it a lot stronger and gave me less of a heart attack when I knew I had too move it.
I hope you enjoy the pics
Cheers


----------



## carlosdivega

Hi,
this is my new Ryzen rig.


----------



## FXformat

That tubing run needs some work, looks like you took the easiest route and connected whatever was convenient. Try bending some and run parallel lines, it'd look cleaner.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlosdivega*
> 
> Hi,
> this is my new Ryzen rig.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi All
> I enjoy going through this thread and seeing all the excellent pc's on display and also getting ideas for my own builds.
> So I thought I would post a few pics of my latest build.
> I decided I would give the Chromed black brass hard tubing a go on this build and I am pretty pleased with how it turned out.
> The only thing that I felt abit nervous about was the Alphacool fittings made for these hard tubes felt a little too loose for my liking so I had to put a tiny amount of locktight glue were the pipe meets the fitting on the outside.
> As I was not comfortable with having a loose fitting over the top of a thousand dollar video card.
> It made it a lot stronger and gave me less of a heart attack when I knew I had too move it.
> I hope you enjoy the pics
> Cheers


Awesome work with the brass. Did you bend it yourself? If so which bender did you end up using? The black chrome effect is sweet!! I really want to do an all-metal build. Debating brass, copper or stainless...


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlosdivega*
> 
> Hi,
> this is my new Ryzen rig.


Very nice! I like the wacky tubing layout







... but then again I'm weird.


----------



## Anfs

Hi mate
Thanks for the comments.
The tubing comes pre bent at different lengths.
I was thinking of trying to see if I could bend the tubes but after receiving them they are so heavy and rigid It would have just snapped.
But they do look good once finished.
Cheers


----------



## Yukss

lets see how it goes..


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi mate
> Thanks for the comments.
> The tubing comes pre bent at different lengths.
> I was thinking of trying to see if I could bend the tubes but after receiving them they are so heavy and rigid It would have just snapped.
> But they do look good once finished.
> Cheers


Yea, I'd bet the plating wouldn't hold up to bending. Great looking build.







That tubing does look really nice. I'm in the middle of putting together a black chrome build and I'm really tempted to get it now.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I would just get a big air cooler and a custom cooled GPU solution, probably quieter and less maintenance.
> 
> I had CLCs for ages and they are not good enough. Custom loop for enthusiasts (who want that sort of thing) and air for those who don't want the maintenance.


Yeah, might end up doing that. Though I know that a CLC on a GPU would make a massive difference, but then again there are cards that are sold with that already mounted (though all of them have the issue concerning mixed metal). I'll have to think on how much of an overclock I actually want him to run 24/7, though I'm sure he would be fine at stock speeds to if I just decided not to do anything.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> lets see how it goes..


I never really understood why people put a flow meter at the very beginning of their loop. Wouldn't it work out better at the end of the loop so you can see the actual performance of the pump flowing through your components?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> I never really understood why people put a flow meter at the very beginning of their loop. Wouldn't it work out better at the end of the loop so you can see the actual performance of the pump flowing through your components?


That's just a visual flow meter. It can be wherever in the loop as I do not think it provides a technical readout.

Aqua meters and whatnot that have a digi signal allow you to read through a program, would be best suited after rads and such in the loop, but not right after the pump.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> I never really understood why people put a flow meter at the very beginning of their loop. Wouldn't it work out better at the end of the loop so you can see the actual performance of the pump flowing through your components?


Flow rate is consistent thru the loop,placement is irrelevant.
However,I wouldnt put elbows or angles just before or just after.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flow rate is consistent thru the loop,placement is irrelevant.
> However,I wouldnt put elbows or angles just before or just after.


Good to know! Thx!


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> lets see how it goes..


Very nice. I have the same case, but in neon green. Loving it and will likely buy another for my next build as well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Flow rate is consistent thru the loop,placement is irrelevant.*
> However,I wouldnt put elbows or angles just before or just after.


So putting a Flow Meter right after the pump would be an accurate reading of flow throughout the whole loop?









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So putting a Flow Meter right after the pump would be an accurate reading of flow throughout the whole loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yes. Resistance has a knock on effect down the line as water doesnt compress,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction so flow rate is affected across the board.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So putting a Flow Meter right after the pump would be an accurate reading of flow throughout the whole loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


YES. BNegative is trying to explain in less words the following:

1. Water is not compressible, because of this placement is irrelevant. Begining of the loop, end of the loop its all moving at the same speed wuth exception notes in 2.

2. It should be in a section of straight tube. Because fluid is not compressable an elbow or bend can cause turbulence that can cause a false reading on a flow meter. I would recommend a straight section of 2-3x the width of your tubing before and after a flow meter.


----------



## Yukss

Hello guys thanks for your thoughts in regards the flow indicator. It is not a flow meter, and yes, 90s are not the best but Im confident with my pumps and temps great. I used to have it on the top but i did not like it.

Here is a pic like it was before and after


And my current temps on load. No oc for now


btw here a video with the flow indicator right after the pump. crazy speed tho.


----------



## StealthyTT

Here's my first and second loop for that matter. Yes my ocd would have probably killed me if I didn't make both loops match haha.

Only thing that I don't like is that I can't really see the hardlines, they don't "pop". I can't use uv reactive fluids also, I don't really have any place to hide uv lights. I know someone makes 1/2 ID hardline fittings with leds to light the tube, but I really don't feel like swapping all my lines and buying all new fittings lol.

Anyway I present my first real build.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StealthyTT*
> 
> Here's my first and second loop for that matter. Yes my ocd would have probably killed me if I didn't make both loops match haha.
> 
> Only thing that I don't like is that I can't really see the hardlines, they don't "pop". I can't use uv reactive fluids also, I don't really have any place to hide uv lights. I know someone makes 1/2 ID hardline fittings with leds to light the tube, but I really don't feel like swapping all my lines and buying all new fittings lol.
> 
> Anyway I present my first real build.


Awesome build... well done..









note, yes it would be great if you used mayhem white pastel in it


----------



## StealthyTT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Awesome build... well done..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> note, yes it would be great if you used mayhem white pastel in it


Thanks! I may have to try that, only issue I can see with it is my reservoirs. I probably won't be able to see the helix anymore lol. Also that white fluid in my blue hardlines? Or should I grab something that's blue?


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StealthyTT*
> 
> Thanks! I may have to try that, only issue I can see with it is my reservoirs. I probably won't be able to see the helix anymore lol. Also that white fluid in my blue hardlines? Or should I grab something that's blue?


I cannot see well if you have blue hardlines. If so, try clear petg with white pastel. Or just white petg.


----------



## crafty615

Hey guys, been a while since I've posted here. I built my pc desk about a year and a half ago and had to add a 2 in tall strip around it to make it taller because I forgot to take into account the height of the water block inlet and outlet block. It has not been much of a problem besides holding my arms higher but im used to that. But I recently upgraded my middle monitor to a 28" 4k monitor and since it's on a shelf, it's just barely too tall and doesn't tilt forward enough so the top of the screen is dark and shadowy.

My main point is I would like to remove the 2 inch strip so that it will be 2 inches lower and solve the arm problem and visual problem. To do that, I would like to mount the gpu on its back on the wood. Does anyone know of a good ribbon cable for connecting? And also, does anyone know a good way to either secure it or will it damage the card to let it sit there on its back?

Thanks


----------



## StealthyTT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Hey guys, been a while since I've posted here. I built my pc desk about a year and a half ago and had to add a 2 in tall strip around it to make it taller because I forgot to take into account the height of the water block inlet and outlet block. It has not been much of a problem besides holding my arms higher but im used to that. But I recently upgraded my middle monitor to a 28" 4k monitor and since it's on a shelf, it's just barely too tall and doesn't tilt forward enough so the top of the screen is dark and shadowy.
> 
> My main point is I would like to remove the 2 inch strip so that it will be 2 inches lower and solve the arm problem and visual problem. To do that, I would like to mount the gpu on its back on the wood. Does anyone know of a good ribbon cable for connecting? And also, does anyone know a good way to either secure it or will it damage the card to let it sit there on its back?
> 
> Thanks


I use the 3m shielded riser cables, proven to work for sli and it's high quality cable. They're roughly $100 shipped, now I know this will sound weird so forgive me. I actually have the 250mm version that I need to sell, I had ordered the wrong one and missed the window to return. It's new since I had to order the 500mm version. If you're interested in it shoot me a pm, and I'll go through the appropriate channels on the forums to post it for sale.

Also I mounted mine to a piece of plexi by drilling and tapping the waterblock backplate and useing the correct screws to mount it so they didn't hit anything on the gpu. Is it the best way, probably not, but works fine for.


----------



## StealthyTT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> I cannot see well if you have blue hardlines. If so, try clear petg with white pastel. Or just white petg.


Yeah they're blue, used them so I was able to use clear fluid. Damn I may have to switch them again then. This thing had gone through like 90ft of hardlines haha


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes. Resistance has a knock on effect down the line as water doesnt compress,you can only flow as much as your narrowest restriction so flow rate is affected across the board.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> YES. BNegative is trying to explain in less words the following:
> 
> 1. Water is not compressible, because of this placement is irrelevant. Begining of the loop, end of the loop its all moving at the same speed wuth exception notes in 2.
> 
> 2. It should be in a section of straight tube. Because fluid is not compressable an elbow or bend can cause turbulence that can cause a false reading on a flow meter. I would recommend a straight section of 2-3x the width of your tubing before and after a flow meter.


All this is true TCO (@TheCautiousOne) but in the case of the Aquacomputer MPS family (MPS 100, 200 and 400) the flow meter reading is based on the differential pressure measurement and it will be affected if positioned close to the pump inlet. So don't translate what B neg and ChiTown said with the _notsocautious carte blanche_ of putting the mps wherever you want in the loop, since for those particular models the inlet of the pump can cause serious problems with an accurate reading.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> All this is true TCO (@TheCautiousOne) but in the case of the Aquacomputer MPS family (MPS 100, 200 and 400) the flow meter reading is based on the differential pressure measurement and it will be affected if positioned close to the pump inlet. So don't translate what B neg and ChiTown said with the _notsocautious carte blanche_ of putting the mps wherever you want in the loop, since for those particular models the inlet of the pump can cause serious problems with an accurate reading.










I am glad you can relate to the basis of which I had asked the question.

Thanks Gabe!

TCO


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StealthyTT*
> 
> Here's my first and second loop for that matter. Yes my ocd would have probably killed me if I didn't make both loops match haha.
> 
> Only thing that I don't like is that I can't really see the hardlines, they don't "pop". I can't use uv reactive fluids also, I don't really have any place to hide uv lights. I know someone makes 1/2 ID hardline fittings with leds to light the tube, but I really don't feel like swapping all my lines and buying all new fittings lol.
> 
> Anyway I present my first real build.


Drooling. That is awesome


----------



## emsj86

Just put the panels back on after the satin black paint dried. I don't how I feel. Kind of wish I didn't paint them but we'll see once everything is re done. Potato picks incoming.


----------



## Ceadderman

I have noticed that satin black darkens a case interior too much. I had the interior of my 932 sprayed that color with rattle can and dang things looked dim. Even with 12" cats being used for lighting. So it's getting re-powder coated with a significantly lighter shade of black chrome inside and out. Will still be dark but not nearly as dim with LED stip lighting.









~Ceadder


----------



## Panzerfury

Just finished this yesterday. Wish I could do acrylic tubing, but I don't have the tools or the skills.

Semi happy with the results, although i greatly overestimated how flexible the tubing would be.

The Corsair 460x is btw very hard to work with. Especially cable management


----------



## ruffhi

emsj86 ... what case is that?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> emsj86 ... what case is that?


It's a case labs sm8


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have noticed that satin black darkens a case interior too much. I had the interior of my 932 sprayed that color with rattle can and dang things looked dim. Even with 12" cats being used for lighting. So it's getting re-powder coated with a significantly lighter shade of black chrome inside and out. Will still be dark but not nearly as dim with LED stip lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


One option for fixing that with a simple rattle can is to add 1 or 2 layers of clear coating so that the lighting have something to reflect from. Though at that point it's only semi "satin".


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, but the satin got a few scratches in it and I have it all apart currently. So it's getting the full treatment. Picked up a 21"x27" piece of 22g sheet steel which I have measured out three panels of 8 5/8" (27") to be cut and shortened to 20 5/8" for the front, top and rear. So those will need to be cleaned up prior to securing them to the interior with copper rivets. Just need to pick up the Plexi/Acrylic panels for the exterior and the MB tray.









Still haven't found a plastics supplier in my area. There used to be one in Vancouver, WA but they closed up shop or moved. So hopefully I can find it soon-ish.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, but the satin got a few scratches in it and I have it all apart currently. So it's getting the full treatment. Picked up a 21"x27" piece of 22g sheet steel which I have measured out three panels of 8 5/8" (27") to be cut and shortened to 20 5/8" for the front, top and rear. So those will need to be cleaned up prior to securing them to the interior with copper rivets. Just need to pick up the Plexi/Acrylic panels for the exterior and the MB tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still haven't found a plastics supplier in my area. There used to be one in Vancouver, WA but they closed up shop or moved. So hopefully I can find it soon-ish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well, northing's really going to beat powder coating anyway unless you want airbrushed stuff. So if you got the cash to get it done then that's the best course of action anyway


----------



## Ceadderman

Probably will have it professionally done with my own powder. Would like to do it myself (in the future I will be able to) but I cannot find a cheap used oven large enough for the bake process. I can make a 220w appliance extension cable but then my son is in the Grabby McGrabby phase so anything not nailed down is fair game. Grabbed my wife's grape juice last night and when we went retrieve it, he threw it to the other end of the couch. Thankfully it cleaned up and you can't tell cause she's good like that.









So yeah, had to dial back my workload a bit.







...









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Easily the best quality product I have had in water cooling.


----------



## bluedevil

So should I run some piping tonight?









https://ibb.co/kXtHMQ


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So should I run some piping tonight?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://ibb.co/kXtHMQ


Damn, ok, I thought I was being compact... nice work. Fits like a glove.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So I'm thinking about making the jump to hardline when I order my 1080ti block. Are there really any pro/cons to PETG vs. Acrylic other than not being able to use glycol based coolants? I planned on using Mayhems pastel or just distilled water with dye. I've kinda gathered that UV might not be good for PETG as well. Is this true still?


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Easily the best quality product I have had in water cooling.


what reservoir is that? where did you get it from?


----------



## Elyminator

petg is easier to work with IMO and less prone to breaking. it cuts easier and bends a bit easier.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> what reservoir is that? where did you get it from?


It's a Watercool Reservoir - all the usual suspects should have them (or watercool.de will if you can't find them elsewhere):

PPC - Search


----------



## emsj86

With petg can I use mayhems xt or pastel extreme. If not will distilled pt nuke with dye be ok


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. Cannot use Ethylene Glycol based coolants. That is what "e" and "g" stands for. Fill a PETG loop with EG coolant and you're courting disaster as the tubing will start breaking down and quicker so once heat is applied internally.









~Ceadder


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> With petg can I use mayhems xt or pastel extreme. If not will distilled pt nuke with dye be ok


Mayhems X1 and Dies and No Stain Dies are ok. Mayhems XT-1 is NO GO for reasons of ethylene glycol mentioned earlier


----------



## emsj86

That's what I thought. Was hoping it was one of those do not do things that is actually ok to do. Like when people say you need two different gauges for refrigerants which is just bs


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> With petg can I use mayhems xt or pastel extreme. If not will distilled pt nuke with dye be ok


this should help, posted directly by mayhem few days ago
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/14610#post_25971104


----------



## fast_fate

Nearly finished this little loop - just one straight length to install.
All the bending is now done though











*EDIT:* final tube installed after trimming to length.


----------



## eucalyptus

Any reasons to have a valve air thing in the top of the loop?

Such as this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Barrow-G1-4-brass-Manual-exhaust-valve-air-evacuation-valve-for-computer-water-cooling-system-TPQ/1480188_32636634795.html

Or a filter in the loop such as this?
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/QYFREEZE-G1-4-silvery-water-cooling-system-dual-inner-thread-filters-0-15mm-mesh-computer-water/1480188_32571408054.html


----------



## StealthyTT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Any reasons to have a valve air thing in the top of the loop?
> 
> Such as this:
> https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Barrow-G1-4-brass-Manual-exhaust-valve-air-evacuation-valve-for-computer-water-cooling-system-TPQ/1480188_32636634795.html
> 
> Or a filter in the loop such as this?
> https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/QYFREEZE-G1-4-silvery-water-cooling-system-dual-inner-thread-filters-0-15mm-mesh-computer-water/1480188_32571408054.html


I'm also curious about those, my loops take a long time to bleed out. If those help I'll have to grab some.


----------



## dwolvin

I'd call them important if you need them, but useless for most loops. But then again, my rad has a fill tube hidden behind the MB, sealed with an earplug to keep debris out so what do I know...


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. Cannot use Ethylene Glycol based coolants. That is what "e" and "g" stands for. Fill a PETG loop with EG coolant and you're courting disaster as the tubing will start breaking down and quicker so once heat is applied internally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Do you know if XSPC ECX coolant is safe for PETG? I cannot find anywhere what the xspc coolant is made of.

UPDATE: I found it in a review. It is Propylene Glycol. Ill leave this post up just in case anyone else was curious.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Are these the 90 degree fittings/extenders that I would use with hardline fittings?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-matte-black-dual-rotary-angle-ig1-4-extender.html#Details


----------



## sli_shroom

nope...that os a threaded extended...you need multi link adapters...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-matte-black-enhance-rotary-90-degree-multi-link-adapter.html

or assemble your own with (these have the internal o rings)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-mbwp-c47-g1-4-matte-black-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html (tall)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-mbwp-c48-g1-4-matte-black-multi-link-adapter-mini-set-of-2.html (short)

and

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-matte-black-rotary-90-degree-ig-1-4-adapter.html

if you buy the threaded rings you can use them with any IG (female) adapter


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Any reasons to have a valve air thing in the top of the loop?
> 
> Such as this:
> https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Barrow-G1-4-brass-Manual-exhaust-valve-air-evacuation-valve-for-computer-water-cooling-system-TPQ/1480188_32636634795.html
> 
> Or a filter in the loop such as this?
> https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/QYFREEZE-G1-4-silvery-water-cooling-system-dual-inner-thread-filters-0-15mm-mesh-computer-water/1480188_32571408054.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StealthyTT*
> 
> I'm also curious about those, my loops take a long time to bleed out. If those help I'll have to grab some.


Considering I don't have to use them I'm not sure how valid my comment is, but having a way to open the loop at the very top of the case is great both for filling and draining. I just unplug one of the stop fittings in my Alphacool rads (actually I sometime do 2 as I use one to fill through) for when I'm filling the loop and for when I'm draining it to let some air in. It seriously speeds up the process.


----------



## Ceadderman

The air checks are to allow air to escape a loop during pressure buildup. So say you have some powerful suction coming from the pump and the loop is prone to airlock, the check valve is to mitigate that and keep the flow moving. I know I am not 100% accurate with my terminology, but I just woke up and haven't had my morning caffeine fix.









~Ceadder


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Any reasons to have a valve air thing in the top of the loop?
> 
> Such as this:
> https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Barrow-G1-4-brass-Manual-exhaust-valve-air-evacuation-valve-for-computer-water-cooling-system-TPQ/1480188_32636634795.html
> 
> Or a filter in the loop such as this?
> https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/QYFREEZE-G1-4-silvery-water-cooling-system-dual-inner-thread-filters-0-15mm-mesh-computer-water/1480188_32571408054.html


These are pressure equalizer fittings. You place them at the top of the reservoir to allow excess air to bleed out to equalize the pressure inside the loop itself. In a perfect scenario, the air bubbles (large and small) will be forced into the reservoir (and not held within rads or blocks). When you cap off a reservoir there's going to be pressure capped off with it, this equalizes that pressure by allowing the higher pressure to escape to a lower pressure (ambient/outside of the reservoir).

Also: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2933&XTCsid=j4df62tmmhjncu9hcmhkv95slgl3s85g

As far as the filter... eh, i guess, if you have a bunch of flux in your loop. Dunno that I'd trust the materials on that thing. I know it says Brass/POM, but what of the filters? Those aren't brass. Probably steel, but could be aluminum.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The air checks are to allow air to escape a loop during pressure buildup. So say you have some powerful suction coming from the pump and the loop is prone to airlock, the check valve is to mitigate that and keep the flow moving. I know I am not 100% accurate with my terminology, but I just woke up and haven't had my morning caffeine fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> These are pressure equalizer fittings. You place them at the top of the reservoir to allow excess air to bleed out to equalize the pressure inside the loop itself. In a perfect scenario, the air bubbles (large and small) will be forced into the reservoir (and not held within rads or blocks). When you cap off a reservoir there's going to be pressure capped off with it, this equalizes that pressure by allowing the higher pressure to escape to a lower pressure (ambient/outside of the reservoir).
> 
> Also: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2933&XTCsid=j4df62tmmhjncu9hcmhkv95slgl3s85g
> 
> As far as the filter... eh, i guess, if you have a bunch of flux in your loop. Dunno that I'd trust the materials on that thing. I know it says Brass/POM, but what of the filters? Those aren't brass. Probably steel, but could be aluminum.


Thanks to both of you







Very good explanation Jason with the bubble scenario









Might invest in two of them







Could be re-used afterwards I guess and just be replaced by regular lock fittings









They have different filter models, I have cleaned my stuff, but never really sure with 2x 560 Radiators, so I will buy a filter and plug it in to my quick disconnect tubing so I can easily remove it afterwards when I have had it run for a few hours









Again, big thanks!
















Cheers Ceadder


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The air checks are to allow air to escape a loop during pressure buildup. So say you have some powerful suction coming from the pump and the loop is prone to airlock, the check valve is to mitigate that and keep the flow moving. I know I am not 100% accurate with my terminology, but I just woke up and haven't had my morning caffeine fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> These are pressure equalizer fittings. You place them at the top of the reservoir to allow excess air to bleed out to equalize the pressure inside the loop itself. In a perfect scenario, the air bubbles (large and small) will be forced into the reservoir (and not held within rads or blocks). When you cap off a reservoir there's going to be pressure capped off with it, this equalizes that pressure by allowing the higher pressure to escape to a lower pressure (ambient/outside of the reservoir).
> 
> Also: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2933&XTCsid=j4df62tmmhjncu9hcmhkv95slgl3s85g
> 
> As far as the filter... eh, i guess, if you have a bunch of flux in your loop. Dunno that I'd trust the materials on that thing. I know it says Brass/POM, but what of the filters? Those aren't brass. Probably steel, but could be aluminum.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks to both of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very good explanation Jason with the bubble scenario
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might invest in two of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could be re-used afterwards I guess and just be replaced by regular lock fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have different filter models, I have cleaned my stuff, but never really sure with 2x 560 Radiators, so I will buy a filter and plug it in to my quick disconnect tubing so I can easily remove it afterwards when I have had it run for a few hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, big thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers Ceadder
Click to expand...

The pressure equalizer fittings will have to stay in place. Because once you take it off and replace it with another fitting, you're just capping more pressure into the reservoir.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> The pressure equalizer fittings will have to stay in place. Because once you take it off and replace it with another fitting, you're just capping more pressure into the reservoir.


Can't you achieve the same solution if your res has multiple ports and you loosen a cap to allow the pressure to escape?


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Can't you achieve the same solution if your res has multiple ports and you loosen a cap to allow the pressure to escape?


----------



## Deedaz

Finished the pedestal upgrade on my S8. More pics in the build log.


----------



## Hambone07si

Hey OCN, how's everyone been? It's been a while lol


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Any reasons to have a valve air thing in the top of the loop?
> 
> Such as this:
> https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Barrow-G1-4-brass-Manual-exhaust-valve-air-evacuation-valve-for-computer-water-cooling-system-TPQ/1480188_32636634795.html
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Or a filter in the loop such as this?
> https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/QYFREEZE-G1-4-silvery-water-cooling-system-dual-inner-thread-filters-0-15mm-mesh-computer-water/1480188_32571408054.html


I believe the fittings linked above are spring loaded, normally closed valves that you would place at a high point in the loop... particularly where the loop turns down.
If air accumulates at the high point, you would press on the fitting, opening it slightly, and releasing any air at the fitting.
You would want to wrap the area with a paper towel to catch any spattering of water.

Edit: the valve can also be useful when draining the loop by allowing air to enter the loop at a high point and breaking any vacuum that develops.


----------



## Yukss

I did this for fun..


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I was really tempted to do that with mine (except with an off-the-shelf model - not as nice as yours is) but I'd have to drain everything since I have a top return.

Looks great! Although now the fluid in the tubes looks a little 'dull' in comparison... it's so cheery in the reservoir.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Hey OCN, how's everyone been? It's been a while lol


Whats the deal Bone? Where you been?

TCO


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I was really tempted to do that with mine (except with an off-the-shelf model - not as nice as yours is) but I'd have to drain everything since I have a top return.
> 
> Looks great! Although now the fluid in the tubes looks a little 'dull' in comparison... it's so cheery in the reservoir.


yes it looks brighter than the rest .


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Whats the deal Bone? Where you been?
> 
> TCO


Very long story. Rather not explain if I have too, but I'm back, building, clocking, and having fun








Lost a lot of family this year








Just got a couple 1080ti's, but only keeping the strix. Loving it tho









This is the latest I've been playing on / messing with. Ready to change again tho HA.


----------



## fast_fate

*Paragon*


----------



## StealthyTT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Considering I don't have to use them I'm not sure how valid my comment is, but having a way to open the loop at the very top of the case is great both for filling and draining. I just unplug one of the stop fittings in my Alphacool rads (actually I sometime do 2 as I use one to fill through) for when I'm filling the loop and for when I'm draining it to let some air in. It seriously speeds up the process.


Yeah that's where I usually fill mine, but it still takes forever lol. My loops runs up, getting it to bleed through to push the fluid up is a pain. I had no choice for tubing layout lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The air checks are to allow air to escape a loop during pressure buildup. So say you have some powerful suction coming from the pump and the loop is prone to airlock, the check valve is to mitigate that and keep the flow moving. I know I am not 100% accurate with my terminology, but I just woke up and haven't had my morning caffeine fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you both!


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> I did this for fun..


Holy crap! You made an arc reactor!


----------



## huckincharlie

project completed








http://www.overclock.net/t/1616157/sponsored-scratch-build-copper-one/50#post_25999968


----------



## Trestles126

Epic one of the best ground up builds I've seen


----------



## emsj86

Everyone has different taste but that build to me is the stunning. Probably best scratch build in my eyes


----------



## huckincharlie

Thx guys









I'v been working lots of hours on this.


----------



## bluedevil

Pretty proud of this guy.










https://ibb.co/i8FAak

Project BLUEDEVIL
http://www.overclock.net/t/1622198/sponsored-project-bluedevil


----------



## hrockh

how is a pump generally mounted to a flat piece of vertical metal?

I know you can glue it to the bottom of the case (also adding soft foam to stop vibration) or to a rad / fan. I'm only looking for a solution on a vertical flat plate


----------



## emsj86

Mounted the reservoir. Kind of tricking to not hit anything on the back side (with the bolts) while still trying to make it like on good. Also the reservoir mount was black painted satin white came out pretty decent. Filed the bottom right to allow for front rad fans to pass through. Horrible picture but.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Sorry about the Delayed build, but now am getting back on the horse. Check it out. Link in siggy for the White S3.






TCO


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StealthyTT*
> 
> Yeah that's where I usually fill mine, but it still takes forever lol. My loops runs up, getting it to bleed through to push the fluid up is a pain. I had no choice for tubing layout lol.
> Thank you both!


Depending on how you have laid out your loop, a simple pass-through with a stop fitting on the top of the case can help a lot if you don't have any other tall points to fill from (and bleed from).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> how is a pump generally mounted to a flat piece of vertical metal?
> 
> I know you can glue it to the bottom of the case (also adding soft foam to stop vibration) or to a rad / fan. I'm only looking for a solution on a vertical flat plate


I suspended one by attaching it to the res.



More pictures in Popped Cherry (Build log) Thats another option to mount a pump.

TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

While Im here, couple of the soft tubing.






TCO


----------



## emsj86

Are you using mayhems soft tubing?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Are you using mayhems soft tubing?


Never. Ive only ever used Primochill advanced LRT 3/8 x1/2

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Progress. Getting closer. I can go green, purple, black , or blue with coolant. Think I may actually get white pastel for it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Green!!!

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Well looks like I will be out for a little. Reservoir leaked into the pump and burnt the pump. I don't get how as everything was installed properly. Kind of worried to buy another pump to have the same failure. This was right before I plugged the pump in. No visible leaks but a small drop inside hosing. When I took it apart.


----------



## Ironsmack

You probably forgot something during assembly. Double check everything.

I burned 2 of my MCP35x when the res/top combo started leaking slowly a day or two after I put it together.

It turns out, I forgot one of the screws that hold down one of the acrylic piece inside the res. The o-ring wasn't enough to keep it from leaking.

A very expensive lesson for me this year.


----------



## emsj86

Not to be rude but to assume I forgot something is not helping. I re checked it several times before posting as I didn't want to say something bad without being sure of what I didn't everything right.


----------



## Kimir

And this is why air leak test is the best way, it leaks? you see the pressure drop, no harm done on any hardware.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Well looks like I will be out for a little. Reservoir leaked into the pump and burnt the pump. I don't get how as everything was installed properly. Kind of worried to buy another pump to have the same failure. This was right before I plugged the pump in. No visible leaks but a small drop inside hosing. When I took it apart


Ouch! Sorry to hear that bub!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> And this is why air leak test is the best way, it leaks? you see the pressure drop, no harm done on any hardware.




TCO


----------



## dicom

My complete "White Storm" mod


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> And this is why air leak test is the best way, it leaks? you see the pressure drop, no harm done on any hardware.


you are right but with how the housing is sealed not sure of it would have shown a pressure drop. It may have but the water that was in there wasn't leaking out. Picking up a pump at microcenter today. Hopefully its something on my end. I rather it be that way. Why because than its fixed quick rather than rma


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> you are right but with how the housing is sealed not sure of it would have shown a pressure drop. It may have but the water that was in there wasn't leaking out. Picking up a pump at microcenter today. Hopefully its something on my end. I rather it be that way. Why because than its fixed quick rather than rma


Did you take apart the pump to see what fried? Is the Res and Pump sold as 1 piece?

TCO


----------



## emsj86

It is a combo. Place the pump I. The housing of the reservoir tightened it Down and the gasket from the DDC pump is what suppose to seal it. Measured and checked the gasket. Seems fine. Here is a picture to the right of the wires it fried.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It is a combo. Place the pump I. The housing of the reservoir tightened it Down and the gasket from the DDC pump is what suppose to seal it. Measured and checked the gasket. Seems fine. Here is a picture to the right of the wires it fried.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is unfortunate. Damn.

TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


And only one step away from stupid....

Just because you do not air test doesnt mean it isnt the best way.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And only one step away from stupid....
> 
> Just because you do not air test doesnt mean it isnt the best way.


Figured you would catch that one. You know me to well I suppose.



I love a challenge.










TCO


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And only one step away from stupid....
> 
> Just because you do not air test doesnt mean it isnt the best way.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



My head hurts now...


----------



## chibi

Hey guys,

May I please get some opinions regarding fan placement for my case? I'm using an SMA8 with all rad locations utilized. 1x 560 in the lower compartment as intake, 1x 360 in the front flexbay as intake, with a 480 up top.

My question is, if using both the 480 + 360 rads as intake in main chamber, is a 120mm exhaust fan enough to get all the warm air out? I understand I'll have to run the single exhaust fan at a higher rpm, but I'd rather keep the system at a constant low fan state. Hence the use of max rad space. All fans will be NB eLoops, pwm variant. I usually run my rad fans at 500~600 rpm regardless of system load.

Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> May I please get some opinions regarding fan placement for my case? I'm using an SMA8 with all rad locations utilized. 1x 560 in the lower compartment as intake, 1x 360 in the front flexbay as intake, with a 480 up top.
> 
> My question is, if using both the 480 + 360 rads as intake in main chamber, is a 120mm exhaust fan enough to get all the warm air out? I understand I'll have to run the single exhaust fan at a higher rpm, but I'd rather keep the system at a constant low fan state. Hence the use of max rad space. All fans will be NB eLoops, pwm variant. I usually run my rad fans at 500~600 rpm regardless of system load.
> 
> Thanks


A 120mm is sufficient for exhaust.





Same case, same fans. I have all NB Eloop B-12 (1300rpm variants)

TCO

EDIT: I think @Kimir uses Eloops as well with exhaust in the SMA8


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A 120mm is sufficient for exhaust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same case, same fans. I have all NB Eloop B-12 (1300rpm variants)
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: I think @Kimir uses Eloops as well with exhaust in the SMA8


I do indeed.


----------



## chibi

Thanks TCO, it looks like your top rad is set to exhaust though. I am wanting to set both my top and front rad fans as Intake.

My concern is that in previous builds, although much smaller in scale in an mATX case. I set the front and top fans as intake to create a positive pressure environment. I had a bad experience as my internal case temp was too hot as the single exhaust fan could not get the hot air out quick enough.

Anyways, I will give it a try again seeing as how the SMA8 has much more room internally. Worse case scenario, I flip the top fans to pull and exhaust.


----------



## Ironsmack

Hey EMS,

when you took the res combo apart, was there any wet spots outside the gap?

The fried PCB, tells me the water went in through the housing. So its something between the res and pump housing.

Chibi,

I had my top rad as intake when I had the SMA8. And I only had one fan exhausting at the back. The air was warm inside the case, but nothing to be alarmed about.

The exhaust fan and vented holes helps out with exhausting the air out.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Thanks TCO, it looks like your top rad is set to exhaust though. I am wanting to set both my top and front rad fans as Intake.
> 
> My concern is that in previous builds, although much smaller in scale in an mATX case. I set the front and top fans as intake to create a positive pressure environment. I had a bad experience as my internal case temp was too hot as the single exhaust fan could not get the hot air out quick enough.
> 
> Anyways, I will give it a try again seeing as how the SMA8 has much more room internally. Worse case scenario, I flip the top fans to pull and exhaust.


Oh yea, forgot I had the top rad as exhaust









Still, there shouldn't be a problem. Just don't use the Nb eloops in pull. Heard they are noisy.

TCO


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey EMS,
> Chibi,
> 
> I had my top rad as intake when I had the SMA8. And I only had one fan exhausting at the back. The air was warm inside the case, but nothing to be alarmed about.
> 
> The exhaust fan and vented holes helps out with exhausting the air out.


Thanks Ironsmack!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh yea, forgot I had the top rad as exhaust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, there shouldn't be a problem. Just don't use the Nb eloops in pull. Heard they are noisy.
> 
> TCO


No worries on the top set of fans as intake. I already knew the eLoops would drone if configured as such. I ordered a set of NB Black Silent Pro's as backup!


----------



## dwolvin

Weird to me that they should work differently in push or pull, it seems like the blade unit feels the same forces in either case... Someone should send me a couple to test!


----------



## emsj86

So stopped at microcenter left with a new DDC pump and two bottles of pastel white by mayhems. The new pump wires for the pwm are so short. So just a quick run of distilled and everything is working well. My only thing I can think of is even though the I ring on my last pump looked ok it may have not seated properly by honestly that just a guess of what happened. Any ways 100 dollars later. The light blue is left over fluid in the rads from before.


----------



## alienalvan

Hi all,

Sharing my 1st WC custom loop & do provide me some feedback of my current design. Thanks


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Weird to me that they should work differently in push or pull, it seems like the blade unit feels the same forces in either case... Someone should send me a couple to test!


I run my eLoops in my main computer in pull for over a year.

I have yet to come across this drone everyone keeps talking about.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Ugh I want to go hardline so badly. Also, why can't there be any microcenters anywhere near me? I wish I could just run to the store and grab WC pumps and Mayhems.









Also what are the midplate pass-throughs actually called. Having a hard time locating them on PPC's page.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Ugh I want to go hardline so badly. Also, why can't there be any microcenters anywhere near me? I wish I could just run to the store and grab WC pumps and Mayhems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also what are the midplate pass-throughs actually called. Having a hard time locating them on PPC's page.


Try searching for bulkhead fittings.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Sharing my 1st WC custom loop & do provide me some feedback of my current design. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmm... well it will certainly work fine, however I would have to say it's unnecessarily complex. It appears you are using tubing runs to make sure you have a radiator after each block - however in practice this actually doesn't do what you think it does. On your diagram you indicate 'hot' and 'cold' sides... which seems right but in reality the fluid temperature will equalize rapidly regardless of component order. I know it probably doesn't seem like that works... but trust me it does. I used to think I needed to have my CPU always first in my loop because it generated more heat and needed 'cooler water'. Now almost every build I do has the GPU(s) straight off the pump and straight into the CPU... followed by all the radiators... and the temperatures are exactly the same.









I would just run the GPU blocks together (if you put two tubing runs between them they'll be parallel and it will flow a little better).

*You might consider a run like this: Pump->CPU->Top Radiator->Back Radiator->Side Radiator->Top GPU->Bottom GPU->Reservoir*
(The main reason I suggest this order is you wouldn't have to change as much of your loop as the first part is already in place this way... if you redo everything later I'd just run from the closest block/radiator to the next closest unless you're doing it for looks more than performance.)

That would make the runs cleaner and shorter and wouldn't change the cooling capacity at all - in fact, it might cool _slightly better_ as there will now be a little less restriction and there will be much better airflow through the case to help cool anything that doesn't have a block on it.

That being said, welcome to watercooling!







(And definitely just enjoy using your build before worrying about the next update... once you start, it gets very addictive!)


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Hmmm... well it will certainly work fine, however I would have to say it's unnecessarily complex. It appears you are using tubing runs to make sure you have a radiator after each block - however in practice this actually doesn't do what you think it does. On your diagram you indicate 'hot' and 'cold' sides... which seems right but in reality the fluid temperature will equalize rapidly regardless of component order. I know it probably doesn't seem like that works... but trust me it does. I used to think I needed to have my CPU always first in my loop because it generated more heat and needed 'cooler water'. Now almost every build I do has the GPU(s) straight off the pump and straight into the CPU... followed by all the radiators... and the temperatures are exactly the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would just run the GPU blocks together (if you put two tubing runs between them they'll be parallel and it will flow a little better).
> 
> *You might consider a run like this: Pump->CPU->Top Radiator->Back Radiator->Side Radiator->Top GPU->Bottom GPU->Reservoir*
> (The main reason I suggest this order is you wouldn't have to change as much of your loop as the first part is already in place this way... if you redo everything later I'd just run from the closest block/radiator to the next closest unless you're doing it for looks more than performance.)
> 
> That would make the runs cleaner and shorter and wouldn't change the cooling capacity at all - in fact, it might cool _slightly better_ as there will now be a little less restriction and there will be much better airflow through the case to help cool anything that doesn't have a block on it.
> 
> That being said, welcome to watercooling!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And definitely just enjoy using your build before worrying about the next update... once you start, it gets very addictive!)


Thanks for the feedback DiGiCiDAL & yes i do feel the complexity & imperfection of the build (Which makes me struggle since it didn't really boost the performance to what i'm expecting) The 1st build was just based on common sense & gut feeling hoping it will work









Well it's working just not as expected currently








So i was thinking if i redo the whole thing would it be better with below build?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Ugh I want to go hardline so badly. Also, why can't there be any microcenters anywhere near me? I wish I could just run to the store and grab WC pumps and Mayhems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also what are the midplate pass-throughs actually called. Having a hard time locating them on PPC's page.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-matte-black-finish.html

Case top water fill through.

@alienalvan Quite an intricate loop there.

TCO


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback DiGiCiDAL & yes i do feel the complexity & imperfection of the build (Which makes me struggle since it didn't really boost the performance to what i'm expecting) The 1st build was just based on common sense & gut feeling hoping it will work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well it's working just not as expected currently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i was thinking if i redo the whole thing would it be better with below build?


As the others have said there is little gain in placing components in a particular order. Even if all your heat producing parts are connected and then all the rads together the difference between the coolest and warmest point of the loop will most likely be only a couple of degrees C. Rather than the coolant being warm after blocks and cool after rads it is actually all warmer than the ambient air. How much warmer depends on rad airflow and cooling capacity.
Just connecting the loop so it is neat and simply goes component to next nearest component works great.

The loop layout design here is problematic at the GPU's. Having the outlet between the two blocks like that split flow unevenly and will limit the flow rate through the bottom block to probably 1/4 the flow the top block gets. For a parallel flow GPU block setup you need the outlet underneath and offset from the top inlet.

Otherwise new plan looks great


----------



## emsj86

Having microcenter close is nice but there water cooler parts at my store are meh. A few blocks one or two rads and ek supremacy blocks. As for fittings there are 100 5mm ek extenders lol (not kidding) and maybe 2 90s no hardline fittings.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It is a combo. Place the pump I. The housing of the reservoir tightened it Down and the gasket from the DDC pump is what suppose to seal it. Measured and checked the gasket. Seems fine. Here is a picture to the right of the wires it fried.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> My only thing I can think of is even though the I ring on my last pump looked ok it may have not seated properly by honestly that just a guess of what happened. Any ways 100 dollars later


I had a brand new pwm ddc pump res combo from EK die on me after a week or so.. opening it up it has white powder over all the wire connection points. I think the cables were too tight where they exit and that caused it to fail, they were definitely being pinched hard as it came assembled out of the box. I haven't bothered with an rma, I pinched the shorter tube from the res part for something else and I don't know where the box for it went anyways.


----------



## emsj86

Back week for DDC owners. One day I would like to get a d5 but I feel it's to big in my build for one.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Having microcenter close is nice but there water cooler parts at my store are meh. A few blocks one or two rads and ek supremacy blocks. As for fittings there are 100 5mm ek extenders lol (not kidding) and maybe 2 90s no hardline fittings.


when I worked for the one in Duluth, GA I made sure they kept the WC section stocked and organized


----------



## emsj86

Wow the one near me looks like a bomb went off


----------



## emsj86

Just a little teaser still work to be done. Cables need to go in and managed. I like the white but noticed what looks to be brownish grease coming off ek cpu block so will probably drain or have to get rid of the new pastel which may suck but we'll see. I want to thank Ibruce for the reservoir thank you so much.


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> As the others have said there is little gain in placing components in a particular order. Even if all your heat producing parts are connected and then all the rads together the difference between the coolest and warmest point of the loop will most likely be only a couple of degrees C. Rather than the coolant being warm after blocks and cool after rads it is actually all warmer than the ambient air. How much warmer depends on rad airflow and cooling capacity.
> Just connecting the loop so it is neat and simply goes component to next nearest component works great.
> 
> The loop layout design here is problematic at the GPU's. Having the outlet between the two blocks like that split flow unevenly and will limit the flow rate through the bottom block to probably 1/4 the flow the top block gets. For a parallel flow GPU block setup you need the outlet underneath and offset from the top inlet.
> 
> Otherwise new plan looks great


Thanks @Ashcroft for the feedback & i've adjust it into parallel how about now?


----------



## VeritronX

Isn't there a way to get an aquaero to calculate wattage dissippated using in and out water temps and flowrate? I'm sure I seen someone doing this years ago.. what flow sensor should I get to attempt this with an aquaero 6?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Thanks @Ashcroft for the feedback & i've adjust it into parallel how about now?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


EDIT (2):Your diagram will work fine as well (see BNeg's and TCO's posts below). Consider my two diagrams options 2 and 3 to that:
2) Parallel GPUs, Serial CPU
3) Full Serial.

Connect the two together - between them... then treat both GPUs as if they were a single unit connecting to a top and a bottom port. With parallel flow you don't need to worry which you use as the flow will go through each block. The important thing is to only connect to one port at the top and one port at the bottom - so the fluid has only one way to go.

Try this:


For reference, if you ran a serial configuration rather than a parallel one you would _have_ to use opposing ports (i.e. not the same side as the link between them). Like this:


It seems obvious the bottom setup will work... but I assure you the top one will work just as well - in some cases better even. Plus I think it always looks better but that's an aesthetic preference and I'm sure many others think the opposite.







Also I usually connect opposing sides even in parallel configurations because I'm paranoid too much fluid is 'sneaking by' without circulating in the block - which could happen depending on the design of the block itself. Better safe than sorry I guess. EDIT - Pic updated


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> You don't need to go back through the GPUs as that will just cause the flows to 'fight' each other and not cool things.
> 
> Connect the two together - between them... then treat both GPUs as if they were a single unit connecting to a top and a bottom port. With parallel flow you don't need to worry which you use as the flow will go through each block. The important thing is to only connect to one port at the top and one port at the bottom - so the fluid has only one way to go.
> 
> Try this:


If you put fittings on the top and bottom of the same side of a gpu block there is nothing stopping the water from going straight through, so If you do what the picture describes you won't have any cooling for the gpu's. Gpu blocks are designed to have the water go in one side and come out the other. You need to have the input to the gpus on a different side to the output.. then it will go into one side of each gpu and then out the other side and continue to the rest of the loop.

tl:dr- move the input to the bottom gpu from the pump to the left port instead of the right one, otherwise it will go straight past both gpu's.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> If you put fittings on the top and bottom of the same side of a gpu block there is nothing stopping the water from going straight through, so If you do what the picture describes you won't have any cooling for the gpu's. Gpu blocks are designed to have the water go in one side and come out the other. You need to have the input to the gpus on a different side to the output.. then it will go into one side of each gpu and then out the other side and continue to the rest of the loop.
> 
> tl:dr- move the input to the bottom gpu from the pump to the left port instead of the right one, otherwise it will go straight past both gpu's.


LOL I'd already edited the pic and noted that but good catch.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Isn't there a way to get an aquaero to calculate wattage dissippated using in and out water temps and flowrate? I'm sure I seen someone doing this years ago.. what flow sensor should I get to attempt this with an aquaero 6?


I tried this with an MPS400 and it was a no-go. Not saying it wouldn't work - but I couldn't get it to at any rate. I'd check on their forums for a solution.

EDIT: This is as close as I could find there... maybe you'll have better luck though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Thanks @Ashcroft for the feedback & i've adjust it into parallel how about now?


Digi has it routed in serial, I like your picture right here. Parallel will work just fine as well. The fluid will equalize in temp. There really isn't a need for Warm/Cool fluid in your diagrams.

Personally love Parallel routes.









TCO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You can go one step further and go everything parallel.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> I had a brand new pwm ddc pump res combo from EK die on me after a week or so.. opening it up it has white powder over all the wire connection points. I think the cables were too tight where they exit and that caused it to fail, they were definitely being pinched hard as it came assembled out of the box. I haven't bothered with an rma, I pinched the shorter tube from the res part for something else and I don't know where the box for it went anyways.


The white, powdery substance you're seeing there could be tin-oxide, perhaps the result of a bad soldering job and/or excessive moisture. Used to see something similar in the engine bays of older vehicles, form around electrical points of contact (e.g., your battery terminals). Could also be galvanic in origin

We used to just clean up such electrical joints and apply a .coating of WD-40, which works great for moisture displacement and is non conductive. In today's modern circuit boards, you don't come across it that often if proper soldering materials and techniques are used that help prevent such oxidation.


----------



## Remizon

Deleted


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Wow the one near me looks like a bomb went off


Lol. I used to be in Philly and that one was a mess. Yonkers NY is ok but not as nice as the pic posted. The selection is pretty slim.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can go one step further and go everything parallel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks sweet though it makes my head hurt a little bit, BNeg.







I never considered that, so I guess full parallel even including the CPU (and Rads it appears) will work fine...


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Thanks @Ashcroft for the feedback & i've adjust it into parallel how about now?


This flow confuses me. As VeritronX said ... if there is nothing to stop the water going straight through the GPU attachments ... then won't it do just that ... skip right past the GPUs on the way 'north', through the CPU block and then skip right past the GPUs on the way 'south'.

Or are we relying on the constriction in the CPU to 'force' some of the water through the GPUs?



Spoiler: Comment by VeritronX



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Try this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you put fittings on the top and bottom of the same side of a gpu block there is nothing stopping the water from going straight through, so If you do what the picture describes you won't have any cooling for the gpu's. Gpu blocks are designed to have the water go in one side and come out the other. You need to have the input to the gpus on a different side to the output.. then it will go into one side of each gpu and then out the other side and continue to the rest of the loop.
Click to expand...


----------



## Ceadderman

I see that and think that the inlet flow of all cards block the resulting outflow of all GPU aND flowing oUT the bottom outlet. The 1st GPU will always remain the coolest but over a short time period the loop will stabilize in effectiveness.









I've never run that form of parallel at all but it's doable from what I see.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I see that and think that the inlet flow of all cards block the resulting outflow of all GPU aND flowing oUT the bottom outlet. The 1st GPU will always remain the coolest *but over a short time period the loop will stabilize in effectiveness*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I've never run that form of parallel at all but it's doable from what I see*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Correct.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

I call it "Thr Process"


----------



## khemist

Got the 1080Ti block, not installed yet though.


----------



## docsys

Looks awesome!








I just love the Watercool products!


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pmHVO5S4j

It does look awesome and should look great with this.


----------



## docsys

perfect match!








Looking forward to see the completed build. It will surely get a very nice industrial look with that tubes.


----------



## alcal

No good pictures because I was in such a hurry to get my rig running again after 2 days without a real computer, but here is my new foray into the world of WC. It ended up being pretty Thermaltake heavy, though it wasn't planned that way at all. Started with a Core P5, decided I wanted the Pacific RGB fittings and heard that Thermaltake tube sizing is a bit weird so also went with TT PETG tubing. Finally, I ordered NZXT Aer fans, but like an idiot ordered the wrong size so went out to Best Buy and bought some Riing RGB fans.

Specs are:
5930k @4.5 (1.280v) with an EX Supremacy X99
1080Ti (stock because it buzzes when I raise power limits. Grrrr) with EKs Titan XP block
32GB Gskill Ripjaws 4 (only 2400mhz)
2xSamsung 850Evo 500gbs in RAID0 for games
Kingston HyperX Predator M.2 240GB boot drive
2xSeagate 2TB in RAID1 for storage
ASrock X99m/3.1 Killer mATX
Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity 480 with D5 pump and extra reservoir. This thing is so big that I cant get the P5s glass window mounts to fit.

And finally the crappy pics!


----------



## docsys

Even though I am on the train not to support TT i have to agree that those RGB-fittings do a more than decent job in case of lighting the tubes. (if one want's to do so)


----------



## Ithanul

Finally got my butt around to working on the rebuild of my main computer.

Now to get the bubbles out.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> Even though I am on the train not to support TT i have to agree that those RGB-fittings do a more than decent job in case of lighting the tubes. (if one want's to do so)


I got burned to many times by TT to trust them again.

Problem with RGB fittings is:

A. all the wiring you have to deal with. TT uses those cheap bulky sleeving, which makes it bit harder in some cases.
B. It only works well with short runs & small bends. Anything else you might have an issue.

Their are other companies out their that also do LED fittings.


----------



## docsys

ok... so far so good...
My first watercooled RIG. Not yet completely finished but the rest ist mostly just a little aesthetics tuning (see to-do list in the sig).
Sorry for the crappy Photos. I don't have the equipment or the skills for better ones.











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I got burned to many times by TT to trust them again.
> 
> Problem with RGB fittings is:
> 
> A. all the wiring you have to deal with. TT uses those cheap bulky sleeving, which makes it bit harder in some cases.
> B. It only works well with short runs & small bends. Anything else you might have an issue.
> 
> Their are other companies out their that also do LED fittings.


I must say that I just rated the pics I've just seen here lastly. I never got my hands on one of those or that of other manufacturers. But the results @alcal showed up looked really nice.


----------



## alcal

Yeah, I'm hoping for the best with the TT fittings. I think chamfering and sanding the edges of the tube well is critical because of the centered double o-rings on these fittings. My runs aren't particularly short for the most part, but after about two days of uptime, they aren't showing any signs of loosening. Now if only my cats could stop trying to chew the tubing I'd be happy.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TT as in Thermaltake?









Fittings?









No way.

TCO


----------



## Jsunn

I just finished my custom vertical GPU mount for the PC-O11. I will get the 1080Ti on water here eventually.


----------



## jon666

Just got some stuff from frozencpu. Arrived faster then expected. I think I might go through them next order. Time to see what I can cram into this cosmos 2.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Just got some stuff from frozencpu. Arrived faster then expected. I think I might go through them next order. Time to see what I can cram into this cosmos 2.


With everything that happened there most people won't buy from them and I'm pretty sure most vendors refuse to sell to them as well.


----------



## jon666

I remember reading about that, not sure if management changed. If they have what I want at a good price I will order again. I think the other one was sidewinder pc, couldn't find the website.


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I think the other one was sidewinder pc, couldn't find the website.


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/

I've ordered from them. There was a mistake and they caught it before I could contact them. Sent me the fix right away. I liked that.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Tubing is Happening.












TCO


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
> 
> I've ordered from them. There was a mistake and they caught it before I could contact them. Sent me the fix right away. I liked that.


Did you order from them recently? Or years ago?

Gary was great when they were around and active. Nowadays, I feel like sidewinder (and their website) is a ghost town.


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Did you order from them recently? Or years ago?
> 
> Gary was great when they were around and active. Nowadays, I feel like sidewinder (and their website) is a ghost town.


It was around 2 years ago, and it was Gary I dealt with. Didn't know they had changed since.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Did you order from them recently? Or years ago?
> 
> Gary was great when they were around and active. Nowadays, I feel like sidewinder (and their website) is a ghost town.


It is. They never have anything in stock.

Working Cpu now.



Gpu Side Done.

TCO


----------



## Eze2kiel

https://flic.kr/p/TU8YaM


----------



## AreTheGod

Hey guys,
I tried to bend a tube and I'd like to know if it looks good enought to put it in my build!


----------



## FXformat

^^^^looks good to me, I'd rock that in my loop. What color tubing is that? Why does it look frosted?


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> ^^^^looks good to me, I'd rock that in my loop. What color tubing is that? Why does it look frosted?


It looks frosted because it is!
It's actually some alphacool tubing 16 OD called Alphacool Eisrohr.
Looks really nice, but I feel it is a little bit harder to bend (maybe because i'm used to 12mm od?)


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> It looks frosted because it is!
> It's actually some alphacool tubing 16 OD called Alphacool Eisrohr.
> Looks really nice, but I feel it is a little bit harder to bend (maybe because i'm used to 12mm od?)


Is it frosted on the outside or inside? Keep us in the loop no pun intended besause that might look pretty cool lit up.


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Is it frosted on the outside or inside? Keep us in the loop no pun intended besause that might look pretty cool lit up.


It's frosted in the outside. This frosted effect disappear if the tube is being overheated.
Yeah definitly!








But should I make a thread for it or should I just put the updates/issues here?


----------



## neSSa

This is my new Client Build

Hardware:
PHANTEKS ENTHOO EVOLV ATX GLASS - Anthracite Grey
ASUS ROG STRIX X99 GAMING
INTEL® Core™ i7-5960X
Corsair VENGEANCE® LED 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 - RED LED
PLEXTOR SSD M8PeG 1TB, M.2 2280
ASUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition - SLI
Corsair HX1200i
EKWB all watercooling parts


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/povWB0RSj

Got my 1080Ti block installed, just done a temp soft tubing loop for now, i'll be doing Nickel tubing soon.

The Heatkiller block is so shiny!.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I tried to bend a tube and I'd like to know if it looks good enought to put it in my build!












Here is a quick Photo from my current build.

It looks fine, a word of warning if your using AlphaCool bending insert. Don't use it. It doesn't fit properly & it can screw up your bends.


----------



## alfaify




----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a quick Photo from my current build.
> 
> It looks fine, a word of warning if your using AlphaCool bending insert. Don't use it. It doesn't fit properly & it can screw up your bends.


Looks nice!
Well i'm using it but had to buy several insert and got one that's working. Can't use others because there is no other bending insert for 16mm OD/13mm ID


----------



## Ceadderman

You might try the 5/8" Monsoon insert. It's slightly smaller than 16mm but it's closer in fit. 1000ths in difference if I can trust the old calculator.









But it should work since there won't be much in the way of deflection.









~Ceadder


----------



## KaffieneKing

Wouldn't tubing with an ID of 13mm need a 13mm insert?


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You might try the 5/8" Monsoon insert. It's slightly smaller than 16mm but it's closer in fit. 1000ths in difference if I can trust the old calculator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it should work since there won't be much in the way of deflection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think the Monsoon one is the red insert isn't it? If it is, already have it and it is even worse


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Looks nice!
> Well i'm using it but had to buy several insert and got one that's working. Can't use others because there is no other bending insert for 16mm OD/13mm ID


Barrow & Darkside works the best with 16mm/13.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> I think the Monsoon one is the red insert isn't it? If it is, already have it and it is even worse


Yes, Monsoon uses imperial system, Which will not work that great with metric sized tubing.

Red - 16mm
Blue - 14mm


----------



## odriscollb

Hey guys, I have an EK-XRES D5 pump/res combo and I want to upgrade the reservoir tube to 250mm. Problem is, EK only has a 204mm (which is too small) and the next size up is 354mm (which is way to big for my case). So my question is, could I get a Bitspower 250mm tube? Would the threads be compatible? I see the Bitspower uses an M52 thread but does the EK pump use M52?

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odriscollb*
> 
> Hey guys, I have an EK-XRES D5 pump/res combo and I want to upgrade the reservoir tube to 250mm. Problem is, EK only has a 204mm (which is too small) and the next size up is 354mm (which is way to big for my case). So my question is, could I get a Bitspower 250mm tube? Would the threads be compatible? I see the Bitspower uses an M52 thread but does the EK pump use M52?
> 
> Thanks for any help.


Different system. EK uses threads on the outside of the tube and BP uses the inside.


----------



## Spawne32

I've been in search of a non reference RX 480 water block for my MSI armor series for a while now, anyone know of anything that would fit that?


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> This is my new Client Build


Lookin good, bud!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> I've been in search of a non reference RX 480 water block for my MSI armor series for a while now, anyone know of anything that would fit that?


So far as I know, only the cheaply made alphacool block would work. Most manufacturers are only supplying blocks for Reference cards. I could be wrong of course, but maybe heatkiller makes a block that will fit your card? I don't know since I have the EK block and didn't have to search the other manufacturers the way I had to for my 6870s before going with Thermospheres and modded RAM blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycgtr

I don't think the armor line ever gets a block. I may be wrong.


----------



## Ceadderman

I know for a fact that the Nitro line never gets a block. I don't know about Armor, but it stands to reason, as it is a multi fan card and not at all Reference.

This is why I tend to recommend Reference cards when a loop is present. As a watercooling Enthusiast, I cannot resist the temptation to watercool every component in my system. I'd watercool my HDDs if it were as simple as watercooling the other components in my system. Yeah I could get a BP HDD block but it's just not that simple for routing possibilities. Especially when I no longer use a HDD rack.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

A little off topic. It relates to my pwm wires for my DDC pump. I need to extend the cables and don't have the tools to solder. What I do have is wore and these connections. The ones in the picture I have but are insulated so no chance of metal touching. My question is using a male and female version of these connections work to extend wire. My guess is it will but wanted to check with you guys.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neSSa*
> 
> This is my new Client Build
> 
> Hardware:
> PHANTEKS ENTHOO EVOLV ATX GLASS - Anthracite Grey
> ASUS ROG STRIX X99 GAMING
> INTEL® Core™ i7-5960X
> Corsair VENGEANCE® LED 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 - RED LED
> PLEXTOR SSD M8PeG 1TB, M.2 2280
> ASUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition - SLI
> Corsair HX1200i
> EKWB all watercooling parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So far as I know, only the cheaply made alphacool block would work. Most manufacturers are only supplying blocks for Reference cards. I could be wrong of course, but maybe heatkiller makes a block that will fit your card? I don't know since I have the EK block and didn't have to search the other manufacturers the way I had to for my 6870s before going with Thermospheres and modded RAM blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I don't think the armor line ever gets a block. I may be wrong.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I know for a fact that the Nitro line never gets a block. I don't know about Armor, but it stands to reason, as it is a multi fan card and not at all Reference.
> 
> This is why I tend to recommend Reference cards when a loop is present. As a watercooling Enthusiast, I cannot resist the temptation to watercool every component in my system. I'd watercool my HDDs if it were as simple as watercooling the other components in my system. Yeah I could get a BP HDD block but it's just not that simple for routing possibilities. Especially when I no longer use a HDD rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Kinda what I had figured, I bought the card on sale for about 170 bucks when my R9 380X went to hell, couldnt pass up the price as most of them were over 200 at the time. I never usually think reference/non reference when buying the cards I usually just look at the price. Kinda threw a monkey wrench into my plans to do a full loop with a 240 and 120 rad on my new raijintek styx case for my matx ryzen build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> A little off topic. It relates to my pwm wires for my DDC pump. I need to extend the cables and don't have the tools to solder. What I do have is wore and these connections. The ones in the picture I have but are insulated so no chance of metal touching. My question is using a male and female version of these connections work to extend wire. My guess is it will but wanted to check with you guys.


I would ditch that idea and go with 4pin connectors and pins. A much cleaner look and setup imho. You could do a 4pin Mole setup if you want a flat connection as well. Pins are cheap enough and you can get them locally at most RadioShack stores or electronic supply houses.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126

Time to bring her in from the garage to the office. Been a long slow build with all that's been thrown at me in life the last few months. Was good therapy


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I know for a fact that the Nitro line never gets a block. I don't know about Armor, but it stands to reason, as it is a multi fan card and not at all Reference.
> 
> This is why I tend to recommend Reference cards when a loop is present. As a watercooling Enthusiast, I cannot resist the temptation to watercool every component in my system. I'd watercool my HDDs if it were as simple as watercooling the other components in my system. Yeah I could get a BP HDD block but it's just not that simple for routing possibilities. Especially when I no longer use a HDD rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Byiski has full cover block for Nitro +.
I bought for my Sapphire Nitro + and it works great.

link:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bykski-A-SP48PALT-X-Full-Cover-Graphics-Card-Water-Cooling-Block-for-Sapphire-RX480-8G-OC/32781209933.html

I know that they have also block for Asus Strix.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Wouldn't tubing with an ID of 13mm need a 13mm insert?


No,this is what is commonly called interference fit and is not what you are aiming for,you want a 12.5-12mm insert to maintain tolerances.

Also....


----------



## KaRLiToS

GTX 1080ti sli


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Here is the state of my PC until EK releases the waterblock for the Aorus 1080 Ti. So basically I have 1020mm of rad space cooling my delidded 6700k until I can get this GPU underwater.


----------



## Spawne32

I must be the only odd ball still using hose barbs and clamps lol


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> I must be the only odd ball still using hose barbs and clamps lol


In my books, that's still good! At least you didn't say stretched hose over barbs without clamps... that makes me uneasy haha.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol I've run clamp less with zero issues, but that was due to the style of barbs I was running


----------



## Spawne32

I'm cheap, didnt want to run 100 dollars worth of compression fittings in this build im doing. Black hoses, cheap commercial radiators, and hose barbs.







The damn GPU water block is over 100 bucks as it is.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> In my books, that's still good! At least you didn't say stretched hose over barbs without clamps... that makes me uneasy haha.


Ran my rig like that for 2 years with no problem ever.


----------



## AreTheGod

So I installed the tube and i think it looks quite nice.

The tape is here because the GC tend to "fall" a little but I think I'll be able to maintain it with the power supply cable which I still have to order


----------



## bintang1180

just finished my build with ncase m1 v30


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














problems that occur in this case is room to use my hands so I can get into case.LOL
.thanks
Check my IG @bintang1180 for. Another picture


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: I have two air exhaust fittings. Is it worth installing them? I was going to add a three way fittings with a passthrough. The exhaust fitting would be located outside the case.

Also I have some aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane, I have no room on my res due to fittings. Can these be installed else where in the loop or should I just forget about this type of fitting?


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bintang1180*
> 
> just finished my build with ncase m1 v30
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> problems that occur in this case is room to use my hands so I can get into case.LOL
> .thanks
> Check my IG @bintang1180 for. Another picture


that is an absolutely gorgeous setup man, I wish i had skills like this. lol


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bintang1180*
> 
> just finished my build with ncase m1 v30
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> problems that occur in this case is room to use my hands so I can get into case.LOL
> .thanks
> Check my IG @bintang1180 for. Another picture


Temps?


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> In my books, that's still good! At least you didn't say stretched hose over barbs without clamps... that makes me uneasy haha.


no clamps were harmed in this build

7/16 id hose and 1/2 fittings


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

What dual pump you got there?


----------



## sli_shroom

mismatched pair of d5 varios with bitspower mod kits and a bitspower dual top

not pwm or anything but i usually just set em and forget em


----------



## Alan1187

So I am getting ready to order myself a GPU block and get rolling on this rigid tube train, but one thing that I am not seeing in anyone's loops, is a drain port? With soft tube I can just take the entire system out as one full piece, or break away one of the tubes to drain, but where are you all hiding them so well with your rigid?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alan1187*
> 
> So I am getting ready to order myself a GPU block and get rolling on this rigid tube train, but one thing that I am not seeing in anyone's loops, is a drain port? With soft tube I can just take the entire system out as one full piece, or break away one of the tubes to drain, but where are you all hiding them so well with your rigid?


Hidden from all the usual photo angles I'm guessing even if they are in plain sight
and of course they should be at a low point making them even harder to spot.

I think it's a good thing that you can't find them, so long as they are actually there and in a usable location.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> no clamps were harmed in this build
> 
> 7/16 id hose and 1/2 fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good there! I just don't have it in me to not use any form of locking collar, be it a clamp or compression type. I'd be clenching the butt cheeks every time the system is in an on state, haha.


----------



## Yukss

so what is the gains of having dual pump ?


----------



## chibi

Helps with flow and adds redundancy.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alan1187*
> 
> So I am getting ready to order myself a GPU block and get rolling on this rigid tube train, but one thing that I am not seeing in anyone's loops, is a drain port? With soft tube I can just take the entire system out as one full piece, or break away one of the tubes to drain, but where are you all hiding them so well with your rigid?


There is lot's of ways to do drain ports, the way @fast_fate did it is a good one and I would always opt for a ball valve as a drain port if possible.

Her is how I did mine. The build is soft tubing, but the drain is placed separately from all that.


(ignore the state of the paint on those rads, it's temporary at best)


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Helps with flow and adds redundancy.


thanks, but it can be connected in serial and parallel. differences ?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> thanks, but it can be connected in serial and parallel. differences ?


serial. never do dual pumps in parallel. Blocks yes, pumps no.

interesting reading:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/04/26/pump-setup-series-vs-parallel/


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> serial. never do dual pumps in parallel. Blocks yes, pumps no.
> 
> interesting reading:
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/04/26/pump-setup-series-vs-parallel/


thanks for the link


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: I have two air exhaust fittings. Is it worth installing them? I was going to add a three way fittings with a passthrough. The exhaust fitting would be located outside the case.
> 
> Also I have some aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane, I have no room on my res due to fittings. Can these be installed else where in the loop or should I just forget about this type of fitting?


Anyone?


----------



## dwolvin

I'd say not needed unless you are running something strange. Air will eventually work itself out of the loop at the res, or the highest point. As long as you can bleed off a little pressure there you are set.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Air bleeding valves can be useful, it really depends. E.g. in my loop I have two radiators on top of the case, and so my reservoir can't be the highest points in the loop. Those top rads thus trap some air. Those are multiport rads, so I open their top ports to let the air out. I attached extensions to those ports to help avoiding spills.

In a loop with better layout you don't need bleed valves though.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Can the EK ZMT 7/16" tube be used on 1/2" barbs for a push fit or is it to soft for that?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes. It'll be a tight fit but it can be done. Lubricate with distilled to make fitting easier.

~Ceadder


----------



## sli_shroom

thanks. you have to heat the ends of the 7/16 tubing in boiling water to get it to slide over the 1/2 fittings. once it cools/shrinks, you cant even spin it on the fitting. usually have to heat it back up or cut it to remove it.

makes you feel pretty secure about it not coming off

when i first put this build together i actually blew a hole in one of the rads (tube separated at the seam), but the tubing all stayed tight. probably not because of an excess amount of pressure, just a weak seam in the rad, but still...the tubing held on strong


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: I have two air exhaust fittings. Is it worth installing them? I was going to add a three way fittings with a passthrough. The exhaust fitting would be located outside the case.
> 
> Also I have some aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane, I have no room on my res due to fittings. Can these be installed else where in the loop or should I just forget about this type of fitting?
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone?
Click to expand...

no, the membrane dies noir work properly when wet. Once wet it has to dry to work. Or so I am told. I don't have any proof besides to say I test the source


----------



## bintang1180

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> that is an absolutely gorgeous setup man, I wish i had skills like this. lol


Thanks mate . Hahaha sure u can dude


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quick Question: I have two air exhaust fittings. Is it worth installing them? I was going to add a three way fittings with a passthrough. The exhaust fitting would be located outside the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Also I have some aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane, I have no room on my res due to fittings. Can these be installed else where in the loop or should I just forget about this type of fitting?


The aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane is only needed if you are using an aquacomputer pressure sensor MPS to monitor the water level in your reservoir.

The MPS sensor should be located below, and connected to, the bottom of the reservoir via the low port on the MPS sensor.

In order to compensate for over pressure in the reservoir, the high port on the sensor should be connected to the top of the reservoir.

The connection between the high port and the reservoir top can be accomplished by leaving the high port open to atmosphere, and installing the pressure equalization membrane fitting to the reservoir top.


----------



## bintang1180

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Temps?


this is temp


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bintang1180*
> 
> this is temp


Under load?


----------



## Revan654

It's been awhile since I posted my current build in here. Here is my progress in the front of my case so far. Hope it looks good to everyone else.

I was hoping I could have done straight tubing from the radiator to waterblocks However It's off by about 2 to 6mm. I had to use two 90 degree fittings instead.


----------



## Deeptek

Would love to see some long runs with those frosted tubes..


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Would love to see some long runs with those frosted tubes..




This is my longest run. I haven't gotten around to doing my other longer runs yet, Since those are going require allot of bends.


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It's been awhile since I posted my current build in here. Here is my progress in the front of my case so far. Hope it looks good to everyone else.
> 
> I was hoping I could have done straight tubing from the radiator to waterblocks However It's off by about 2 to 6mm. I had to use two 90 degree fittings instead.


Did you just water cool a sound card?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol, those are m.2 waterblock by AquaComputer


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> Did you just water cool a sound card?


Quote:


> There...there...


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol, those are m.2 waterblock by AquaComputer


That makes much more sense.. For a moment I thought someone released a block for these.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> That makes much more sense.. For a moment I thought someone released a block for these.


I want one!


----------



## Mega Man

i would block it if they did .... anything to remove heat via water !


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would block it if they did .... anything to remove heat via water !


IKR!!!









~Ceadder


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol, those are m.2 waterblock by AquaComputer


I keep hoping someone will make a block for on motherboard M.2 stick rather than a riser card. There are a few guys who have put stickon heatsinks on the Samsung and got several degree savings


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> I keep hoping someone will make a block for on motherboard M.2 stick rather than a riser card. There are a few guys who have put stickon heatsinks on the Samsung and got several degree savings


Their is this:


----------



## MURDoctrine

Just looking to get your input on this. Is this white buildup plasticiser? Was on the return 90 degree on my res and the bottom rads 90 degree fittings. I've been cleaning and flushing everything tonight before I put my new EK 1080ti block into the loop.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Just looking to get your input on this. Is this white buildup plasticiser? Was on the return 90 degree on my res and the bottom rads 90 degree fittings. I've been cleaning and flushing everything tonight before I put my new EK 1080ti block into the loop.


are you using clear flexable tubing? If yes than that could be. If you used EK ZMT or other black norprene or hard tubing then No. Did you use pastel fluid? Hoe did you clean your rads before you used them?


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Their is this:


I have seen that but I want it in the formfactor of a waterblock


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Just looking to get your input on this. Is this white buildup plasticiser? Was on the return 90 degree on my res and the bottom rads 90 degree fittings. I've been cleaning and flushing everything tonight before I put my new EK 1080ti block into the loop.


If you don't use silicon plumbing tape to seal at the thread, then it'should either plasticizer or corrosion. If it's powdery it's corossion. If it's not then it is indeed plasticizer.









What is weird is that the threads at the bottom look really clean for plasticized issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol, those are m.2 waterblock by AquaComputer
> 
> 
> 
> I keep hoping someone will make a block for on motherboard M.2 stick rather than a riser card. There are a few guys who have put stickon heatsinks on the Samsung and got several degree savings
Click to expand...

there is no way, too many possibilities for clearance. that is the purpose of the riser card. capacitors and PCIE slots.... ect ect ect the riser card removes all that.

what i would like to see is a black flex ribbon that could be used to relocate it to a card ( personally i would want to see up to 4 on one card, 2 front 2 back ) and then i could relocated them to a position IE the " +1 or +2 " PCIE slots on cases
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Just looking to get your input on this. Is this white buildup plasticiser? Was on the return 90 degree on my res and the bottom rads 90 degree fittings. I've been cleaning and flushing everything tonight before I put my new EK 1080ti block into the loop.


tbh looks more like calcium or what not. imo. perfectly normal


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless he flushed with tap water I cannot see how it is possibly calcification. Distilled shouldn't contain any of that impurity.









~Ceadder


----------



## MURDoctrine

I'm leaning towards either calcification or corrosion or both. I have REALLY, REALLY hard water where I live and I normally flush with tap when I do maintenance but go behind that with a couple of flushes of distilled. I only run distilled water with a kill coil in the loop. I've only run primochill tubing on it and for the past few years only their advance lrt translucent blue. It was kind of powdery as I could brush it off pretty easily with a toothbrush (clean don't worry XD).


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Their is this:


where i can buy it? all i see is PCIe card version


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> I have seen that but I want it in the formfactor of a waterblock


IMO that's not going to happen - AIC's sure - on board... nope. Just think about the tolerances on most boards that have M.2 slots... they're usually stuck in between some x16 slots (which are likely to have at least one GPU occupying them). Plus they're often near chipset heatsinks and on ITX boards, many are on the underside of the MB.

Add in the fact that they would have to have a height of at least 12mm +/- in order for there to be enough room for a water channel and for the G1/4 threaded area to be deep enough for even the shallowest fittings to seat properly... and you've got one ugly blob of copper which is cooling something that needs to dissipate less than 10W to be more than cool enough. I'm guessing that the total worldwide market for such a block would be in the dozens to a hundred _at best_.

So for it to be profitable for a company they'd need to be like $100 each at least... and that would be before factoring in all the returns for "didn't fit", "broke my ssd when I pushed tubing onto the barbs", and "my GPU won't fit now that I blocked my SSD", etc.

EDIT: Unless manufacturing of blocks becomes so 'brainless' (i.e. via 3D scanning, and automated CAM production files) that we see full board blocks for every single motherboard currently in production as well as every GPU including budget models... then we're definitely not going to see them for sound cards or on-board M.2. At least that's my guess.

... Not saying I don't agree with the concept of watercooling anything that isn't nailed down - just saying don't be holding your breath on that.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> where i can buy it? all i see is PCIe card version


https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3660&XTCsid=ho50m4u94m2jm9pppnnnfdoqo586m1h6


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3660&XTCsid=ho50m4u94m2jm9pppnnnfdoqo586m1h6


thanks


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Obviously letting them get hot enough to throttle isn't desirable but some other aspects to consider before getting crazy on cooling...

See the two links at the end of this review... I remember the one from ars but didn't know of the other one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Their is this:


Almost 1 to 1 with the one I did for EK about 5 months a go....


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Almost 1 to 1 with the one I did for EK about 5 months a go....


Looks like you've got a mole. Good old corporate espionage.


----------



## DarthBaggins




----------



## Kimir

lol, a passive rad is a passive rad.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Almost 1 to 1 with the one I did for EK about 5 months a go....


Didn't know Ek made something like that? Can you link me? I was gonna get that aqua one but rather get the Ek as it matches more my build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Same.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is no way, too many possibilities for clearance. that is the purpose of the riser card. capacitors and PCIE slots.... ect ect ect the riser card removes all that.
> 
> what i would like to see is a black flex ribbon that could be used to relocate it to a card ( personally i would want to see up to 4 on one card, 2 front 2 back ) and then i could relocated them to a position IE the " +1 or +2 " PCIE slots on cases
> tbh looks more like calcium or what not. imo. perfectly normal


cacium ? can you pls explain, i had this a month ago when i was on ditilled water, also, it was powdery, but nothing sinside the rad, blocks or tubing (petg) it was present just in the threads. Now i am on meyhem pastel


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> where i can buy it? all i see is PCIe card version


It was just announced & It should have been available by now. Since it's AquaComputer I say you might have to wait a month or two.


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It was just announced & It should have been available by now. Since it's AquaComputer I say you might have to wait a month or two.

















ok







... but you bought it right after ?


----------



## jon666

Well. Crap. Ordered some more compression fittings. Debating on a new power supply just so I can keep my current PC intact, and everything new goes into the new case. Not what I was planning on, but once I get all the parts figured out my next PC is going to at least look half decent. Monsoon compression fittings in the six pack are decent right?


----------



## mouacyk

Hey, speaking of PSU -- Seasonic Platinum 860XP2 for $90! If I was buying a new ATX PSU today for single-GPU, this would be it. See it in the Online Deals section. Almost tempted to replace my 660XP2 just for a bit more headroom.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but you bought it right after ?


Nope, since It would be December & I would still be waiting for it. Plus I don't need it. I would get the new AQ Evo card first.


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Nope, since It would be December & I would still be waiting for it. Plus I don't need it. I would get the new AQ Evo card first.


yeah now i understand, i thought it was your screenshot, and it is product picture only


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Well. Crap. Ordered some more compression fittings. Debating on a new power supply just so I can keep my current PC intact, and everything new goes into the new case. Not what I was planning on, but once I get all the parts figured out my next PC is going to at least look half decent. Monsoon compression fittings in the six pack are decent right?


Their fine, just be careful when picking tubing. Since MonSoon uses imperial system. Where companies like EK, Bitspower, AlphaCool, etc... use metric for their tubing. They two do not mix.


----------



## jon666

I can't even remember which brand tubing I picked up, maybe it was from Swiftech. Was going to go with Swiftech black chrome compressions, but couldn't find any in stock since I matched up the size with the fancy version of the 240x unit. Might go with an overkill PSU as well so I know the cables will be long enough for the Cosmos II. Especially the CPU power one. 2' isn't long enough I don't think since the PSU will sit farther down in this case. 1/2" by 3/4" tubing. I might not be coherent. These six day work weeks might be taking its toll. Switching from coffee to beer. I don't have to work tomorrow.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I can't even remember which brand tubing I picked up, maybe it was from Swiftech. Was going to go with Swiftech black chrome compressions, but couldn't find any in stock since I matched up the size with the fancy version of the 240x unit. Might go with an overkill PSU as well so I know the cables will be long enough for the Cosmos II. Especially the CPU power one. 2' isn't long enough I don't think since the PSU will sit farther down in this case. 1/2" by 3/4" tubing. I might not be coherent. These six day work weeks might be taking its toll. Switching from coffee to beer. I don't have to work tomorrow.


I would make sure tubing is imperial size before ordering from MonSoon.

You could always create your own or get extensions.


----------



## jon666

After taking a look at the tubing, it will have to be dipped in some hot water I think. Might not be as easy as the 3/8 stuff I am currently using with barbs. I am expecting the black carbon monsoons to arrive. Been looking at PSU's, the longer the cables the better. Will be hooking up a fan controller and whatnot, so if it is too long I should be able to hide it someplace. You guys just bring water to boil then dip the ends in to soften them up?


----------



## Ithanul

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Hey, speaking of PSU -- Seasonic Platinum 860XP2 for $90! If I was buying a new ATX PSU today for single-GPU, this would be it. See it in the Online Deals section. Almost tempted to replace my 660XP2 just for a bit more headroom.


Ooo, nice heads up.









I need a PSU for my 2nd computer since my previous one died in glorious fashion in my [email protected]/BOINC rig.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> where i can buy it? all i see is PCIe card version


you can go straight to the source

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3660


----------



## stealth80

So I went back to the red side jumping on Ryzen 7 after about 10 years since having my Athlon 64 and 64x2 (had a few ATi/AMD cards in that time)

R7 1700
3200mhz Gskill RGB
Gigabyte AX370 Gaming 5
Palit Gamerock Premium 1080


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealth80*
> 
> So I went back to the red side jumping on Ryzen 7 after about 10 years since having my Athlon 64 and 64x2 (had a few ATi/AMD cards in that time)
> 
> R7 1700
> 3200mhz Gskill RGB
> Gigabyte AX370 Gaming 5
> Palit Gamerock Premium 1080


What is that LCD thingy-ma-bob? How is it connected and is it running Aida OSD? Need more info please!


----------



## stealth80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> What is that LCD thingy-ma-bob? How is it connected and is it running Aida OSD? Need more info please!


Haha, ok info inbound

Ok

1) The screen - I bought it from Ebay (I'm UK) for around £36, its a 5 inch LCD (its supposed to be touchscreen but It's not got the correct software etc) which is powered by USB and signalled by HDMI. I just plug into the HDMI port on my 1080 and run it as a second screen. Remember a lot of never cards only have 1x HDMI, I use displayport for my monitor - just something to think about.

This is the actual one I use:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Banana-Pi-Mainboard-5-Inch-Resistive-Touch-Screen-LCD-B-HDMI-USB-Interface-/112323493032?hash=item1a27007ca8:g:y7YAAOSwwpdW77NX

There is also a kind of 3d printed surround available also:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Raspberry-pi-5-inch-Capacitive-touch-screen-lcd-display-Acrylic-Case-Frame-/172310647968?hash=item281e83d4a0:g:ihwAAOSwZVlXtY9x

2) It's running AIDA 64, with it's "Sensorpanel" I made a custom sensor panel which you can customise (its quite easy and theres videos available) in the options you can set it to start with windows and lock its position so it always loads on the small screen


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealth80*
> 
> Haha, ok info inbound
> 
> Ok
> 
> 1) The screen - I bought it from Ebay (I'm UK) for around £36, its a 5 inch LCD (its supposed to be touchscreen but It's not got the correct software etc) which is powered by USB and signalled by HDMI. I just plug into the HDMI port on my 1080 and run it as a second screen. Remember a lot of never cards only have 1x HDMI, I use displayport for my monitor - just something to think about.
> 
> This is the actual one I use:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Banana-Pi-Mainboard-5-Inch-Resistive-Touch-Screen-LCD-B-HDMI-USB-Interface-/112323493032?hash=item1a27007ca8:g:y7YAAOSwwpdW77NX
> 
> There is also a kind of 3d printed surround available also:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Raspberry-pi-5-inch-Capacitive-touch-screen-lcd-display-Acrylic-Case-Frame-/172310647968?hash=item281e83d4a0:g:ihwAAOSwZVlXtY9x
> 
> 2) It's running AIDA 64, with it's "Sensorpanel" I made a custom sensor panel which you can customise (its quite easy and theres videos available) in the options you can set it to start with windows and lock its position so it always loads on the small screen


Cool beans, thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> I have seen that but I want it in the formfactor of a waterblock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO that's not going to happen - AIC's sure - on board... nope. Just think about the tolerances on most boards that have M.2 slots... they're usually stuck in between some x16 slots (which are likely to have at least one GPU occupying them). Plus they're often near chipset heatsinks and on ITX boards, many are on the underside of the MB.
> 
> Add in the fact that they would have to have a height of at least 12mm +/- in order for there to be enough room for a water channel and for the G1/4 threaded area to be deep enough for even the shallowest fittings to seat properly... and you've got one ugly blob of copper which is cooling something that needs to dissipate less than 10W to be more than cool enough. I'm guessing that the total worldwide market for such a block would be in the dozens to a hundred _at best_.
> 
> So for it to be profitable for a company they'd need to be like $100 each at least... and that would be before factoring in all the returns for "didn't fit", "broke my ssd when I pushed tubing onto the barbs", and "my GPU won't fit now that I blocked my SSD", etc.
> 
> EDIT: Unless manufacturing of blocks becomes so 'brainless' (i.e. via 3D scanning, and automated CAM production files) that we see full board blocks for every single motherboard currently in production as well as every GPU including budget models... then we're definitely not going to see them for sound cards or on-board M.2. At least that's my guess.
> 
> ... Not saying I don't agree with the concept of watercooling anything that isn't nailed down - just saying don't be holding your breath on that.
Click to expand...

i personally hate the new fad of monoblocks.

granted i was going to block my board anyway. but i miss the options to just buy the board block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is no way, too many possibilities for clearance. that is the purpose of the riser card. capacitors and PCIE slots.... ect ect ect the riser card removes all that.
> 
> what i would like to see is a black flex ribbon that could be used to relocate it to a card ( personally i would want to see up to 4 on one card, 2 front 2 back ) and then i could relocated them to a position IE the " +1 or +2 " PCIE slots on cases
> tbh looks more like calcium or what not. imo. perfectly normal
> 
> 
> 
> cacium ? can you pls explain, i had this a month ago when i was on ditilled water, also, it was powdery, but nothing sinside the rad, blocks or tubing (petg) it was present just in the threads. Now i am on meyhem pastel
Click to expand...

sorry FFS ( fat finger syndrome ) " calcium "basically a word (* that i incorrectly use ) as a ketch all for sediment. distilled or not.your water still has some. and will over time pick more up.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I can't even remember which brand tubing I picked up, maybe it was from Swiftech. Was going to go with Swiftech black chrome compressions, but couldn't find any in stock since I matched up the size with the fancy version of the 240x unit. Might go with an overkill PSU as well so I know the cables will be long enough for the Cosmos II. Especially the CPU power one. 2' isn't long enough I don't think since the PSU will sit farther down in this case. 1/2" by 3/4" tubing. I might not be coherent. These six day work weeks might be taking its toll. Switching from coffee to beer. I don't have to work tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> I would make sure tubing is imperial size before ordering from MonSoon.
> 
> You could always create your own or get extensions.
Click to expand...

It's only an issue for the hardline fittings, 1/2 x 3/4 soft tubing fittings have no problems.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Finally stopped being lazy and put my 1080 SC under water, and for once my blocks match lol


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i personally hate the new fad of monoblocks.
> 
> granted i was going to block my board anyway. but i miss the options to just buy the board block.


I agree with you as far as monoblocks (with the exception of ITX where it makes more sense to me) - all I meant with "full board blocks" was custom block(s) to cool every aspect of a motherboard. For example the MIPS block for my MVE I would consider a "full board block" but not a "monoblock" as the CPU needs to be blocked separately.

Kinda the same situation with the M.2 passive heatsinks (the EK/AC discussion)... to be fair there are only a couple of ways of designing a heatsink for the form factor that is both nearly universal and aesthetically pleasing. Don't know if I'd call that a case of 'copying' or not. Same with fittings - although 'coincidentally' choosing a dragon logo and deciding to use green o-rings for your fittings might be really stretching things.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i personally hate the new fad of monoblocks.
> 
> granted i was going to block my board anyway. but i miss the options to just buy the board block.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with you as far as monoblocks (with the exception of ITX where it makes more sense to me) - all I meant with "full board blocks" was custom block(s) to cool every aspect of a motherboard. For example the MIPS block for my MVE I would consider a "full board block" but not a "monoblock" as the CPU needs to be blocked separately.
> 
> Kinda the same situation with the M.2 passive heatsinks (the EK/AC discussion)... to be fair there are only a couple of ways of designing a heatsink for the form factor that is both nearly universal and aesthetically pleasing. Don't know if I'd call that a case of 'copying' or not. Same with fittings - although 'coincidentally' choosing a dragon logo and deciding to use green o-rings for your fittings might be really stretching things.
Click to expand...

I am of the mind that Mono blocks while decent in looks, are only for m-Class boards where space is not at a premium. But it looks like I will have to join the mb crowd since EK doesn't make a board specific option for the CVIHero and instead makes only a Nickel block for the board and CPU monoblock. Kinda shameful considering all my other blocks are copper and I would rather run copper. Guess it's the acetal version for me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Is it normal for Performance PCs to be really bad with feedback and also to take a over a month to process an order ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Over a month? No, that IMHO is not normal.

Never really had a problem with feedback either.

I would email them to see what the holdup is. It may be weather related, though I haven't heard anything about their weather over the last month, so I really cannot say for sure what is the issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Is it normal for Performance PCs to be really bad with feedback and also to take a over a month to process an order ?


About the feedback, very possibly. I let them know their site seemed slower than usual (took quite a while to update my order multiple times, almost resulting in me ordering the wrong stuff or not enough of the right stuff) and the response I got back was pretty rude. Said they have no problems accessing the site from their end, did not ask when I had the problem, if I could ping to them, blah blah blah, normal troubleshooting stuff. Just acted like I had kicked their dog.

So the next time I needed something, I threw caution to the wind and went back to FrozenCPU. I got what I ordered, the site wasn't wonky.

Thanks PPCs! But no thanks.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Over a month? No, that IMHO is not normal.
> 
> Never really had a problem with feedback either.
> 
> I would email them to see what the holdup is. It may be weather related, though I haven't heard anything about their weather over the last month, so I really cannot say for sure what is the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


On 13 March I inquired about a product that was listed as not in stock and they said they should be getting it any day now, I placed my order and heard nothing from them until 13 April where I contacted them again regarding my order to which they said, they have recently ordered the part and have no ETA.

I am a patient man as I am waiting for my Parvum case to get made and arrive (which has been months as well) but I find this really annoying. It has been so long since I ordered that our economy has taken a hit and my import costs have increased by more than $150 (which is around 1 forth of my total order cost)


----------



## docsys

What would you guys expect how long it would take for algae to grow in a loop using only distilled water without any additives?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i personally hate the new fad of monoblocks.
> 
> granted i was going to block my board anyway. but i miss the options to just buy the board block.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with you as far as monoblocks (with the exception of ITX where it makes more sense to me) - all I meant with "full board blocks" was custom block(s) to cool every aspect of a motherboard. For example the MIPS block for my MVE I would consider a "full board block" but not a "monoblock" as the CPU needs to be blocked separately.
> 
> Kinda the same situation with the M.2 passive heatsinks (the EK/AC discussion)... to be fair there are only a couple of ways of designing a heatsink for the form factor that is both nearly universal and aesthetically pleasing. Don't know if I'd call that a case of 'copying' or not. Same with fittings - although 'coincidentally' choosing a dragon logo and deciding to use green o-rings for your fittings might be really stretching things.
Click to expand...

yea, i disagree with the fittings theme.... just had this convo in the monsoon thread, for the most part, completely able to be done and look different


----------



## Alastair

I also agree with you mega. I dislike mono blocks. I like to see my motherboard. And everything underneath. A monoblock kind of destroys the aesthetic a bit. And if you got decent VRM heatsinks with good airflow I can't really see there being a major benefit to having a monoblock. But that's just me.


----------



## Lee0

I disagree. I quite like the aesthetics of an monoblock and the clean design they can provide. However I must say that some motherboards are better or suited for monoblocks and some are worse.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Over a month? No, that IMHO is not normal.
> 
> Never really had a problem with feedback either.
> 
> I would email them to see what the holdup is. It may be weather related, though I haven't heard anything about their weather over the last month, so I really cannot say for sure what is the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 13 March I inquired about a product that was listed as not in stock and they said they should be getting it any day now, I placed my order and heard nothing from them until 13 April where I contacted them again regarding my order to which they said, they have recently ordered the part and have no ETA.
> 
> I am a patient man as I am waiting for my Parvum case to get made and arrive (which has been months as well) but I find this really annoying. It has been so long since I ordered that our economy has taken a hit and my import costs have increased by more than $150 (which is around 1 forth of my total order cost)
Click to expand...

Now I fully understand. It takes a certain modecum of patience when ordering parts that are in OoS mode. PPCs will go out of their way to get the part(if still available), but they are handcuffed to their suppliers and shipping can indeed be irritatingly slow. If theit order is coming from China, they have to wait on the slow boat and then they have to wait on their container to make it across the country.

I just got some cables from China and that in itself took 3 weeks on the slow boat to get here not including the 5 days it took to come from Seattle via ground shipping. I dunno what your order is, but I have a feeling that is what their holdup is. So all I can say is that one must have patience with any vendor who deals with overseas shipping.









~Ceadder


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pmfF3snBj

https://imageshack.com/i/pm8qC3Pbj

https://imageshack.com/i/poyAxhwtj

https://imageshack.com/i/poLtzrvej



Went back to using Nickel/Brass tubing.


----------



## catbuster

khemist is dat bitspower tubing? love those fittings


----------



## khemist

Yeah it is, cheers!.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah the CoolForce fittings are nice from Naxonia (Sp?)


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pmfF3snBj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pm8qC3Pbj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/poyAxhwtj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/poLtzrvej
> 
> 
> Went back to using Nickel/Brass tubing.


Beautiful! Always enjoy the look of a well done build.









On a related note, I saw you used DIYMOD's 16awg FEP for your cables (nice work there as well), and I've got a couple of hundred feet of the stuff on hand as well now. I'm assuming you also used 16 gauge terminals with the wire and connector housings, but please correct me if I'm mistaken. Additionally, anything you might add as something I should watch out for with respect to crimping those terminals would be a great help (e.g., use Molex branded 16awg terminals, housings, etc.). I do have a Molex branded crimper on hand to do the work. TIA!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, i disagree with the fittings theme.... just had this convo in the monsoon thread, for the most part, completely able to be done and look different


That's why I brought it up - saying it's definitely pushing things to use the function-dictates-form argument with them. However, that too is subjective because although I would agree on monsoon fittings looking totally different - I personally find them to be the ugliest thing ever put in a build - at least as far as fittings are concerned.

If you look at nearly every other brand of fittings they are identical in most ways (apart from branding itself) - but then again, it could be argued that they all are simply adjusted versions of plumbing supplies that existed long before it occurred to anyone to watercool a PC.

To me personally, I see Monsoon as one of those companies that strives to be different (which is good) but winds up making products which remind me of a Honda with a wing, ground effects, neon and a ton of vinyl graphics... Different? Yes, definitely. Better? Well, apparently many people think so - I'm just not one of those people.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Anyone know if there are any pre-cut tubes that will fit the spacing of the RIVF SLI x16 slots? Would love to replace this very slightly imperfect tube link.


----------



## DarthBaggins

PPC's should have some from Bitspower/EKWB/Alphcool and more

http://www.performance-pcs.com/rigid-hard-tubing


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, i disagree with the fittings theme.... just had this convo in the monsoon thread, for the most part, completely able to be done and look different
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I brought it up - saying it's definitely pushing things to use the function-dictates-form argument with them. However, that too is subjective because although I would agree on monsoon fittings looking totally different - I personally find them to be the ugliest thing ever put in a build - at least as far as fittings are concerned.
> 
> If you look at nearly every other brand of fittings they are identical in most ways (apart from branding itself) - but then again, it could be argued that they all are simply adjusted versions of plumbing supplies that existed long before it occurred to anyone to watercool a PC.
> 
> To me personally, I see Monsoon as one of those companies that strives to be different (which is good) but winds up making products which remind me of a Honda with a wing, ground effects, neon and a ton of vinyl graphics... Different? Yes, definitely. Better? Well, apparently many people think so - I'm just not one of those people.
Click to expand...




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *straha20*
> 
> I was having a difficult time finding them in the quantity I wanted, in a reasonable timeframe, and without piecemealing through five different vendors. Also, all the other parts I needed such as the 90 degree elbows, bulkheads, caps... When I can get a simple Barrow f/f 90 degree elbow for under $5,..the cost savings on one part alone is enough to cover the paint, never mind the savings on over a dozen of them This way, I was able to get the specific high gloss white that I wanted without having to worry about color consistency across fittings, or being limited to one specific manufacturer.
> 
> 
> 
> Or you could have just waited until Barrow knocks off EV2 and gotten those a bit cheaper too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> and this is why i buy monsoon.
> 
> please dont change and dont stop telling us how you feel
> 
> on the flip side i have to admit, from what little i have seen they are starting to make their own stuff, aside of that, for me it is too little too late
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *straha20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Or you could have just waited until Barrow knocks off EV2 and gotten those a bit cheaper too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The 90 degree f/f simple fitting in particular, it seems as if most of the brands have basically the same design, and really, there is not much that can be done to vary it besides putting a logo on it, and I am not a brand loyalist to the point where I will pay a premium for a logo.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i am sick of this argument. it is a false argument, was a false argument and will be a false argument.
> 
> there are tons of differences. our fittings are not standardized parts like copper fittings, like pvc.......
> 
> 
> 
> look at that, 4 COMPLETELY different 90s all from the same manufacture and none are exactly the same
> 
> 
> look at that. 3 ADDITIONAL 90deg fittings that look COMPLETELY different from 3 ADDITIONAL manufactures and all perform the same function yet are very different.
> 
> false arguments always fail, fyi
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *straha20*
> 
> The Monsoon EV2 1/2 inch rigid compression fittings though had the look I was after at a really great price point. These more complicated types of fittings where there are multiple moving part, multiple o rings, more potential failure points, there is some truth that you get what you pay for up to a point, and the Monsoon fittings that I bought were the absolute perfect balance between quality and price point.
> 
> The only issue I ran into was finding the stock of the color I wanted. One thing I will say though is that given how pleased I am with how the painting turned out, when it comes to the Monsoon compression fittings, lack of availability of a particular color is no longer a purchase consideration for me, making it more likely that I will purchase Monsoon in the future.
> 
> Now, you want to give me one of these...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For under $5, then I'll buy them and paint them all day long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> or . you could accept that the R and D on these things is excessively costly and someone has to actually pay for it. while others have bypassed this product phase and just stolen it. you can continue to use said product, but it shows where your heart lies. and it is not in innovation.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> "lets be honest"
> 
> NONE of these are anything but simple.
> 
> ALL of the above bitzpower can be found in simple M/M or m/f 90s
> 
> if by simple you and i have a language barrier which i assume not due to the linguistics you use and by "simple" you mean non rotary my first response is " why"
> 
> by more complicated i assumed you ment these
> 
> 
> 
> although due to use it is harder to make stand out differently, they still do.
> 
> and lastly on topic. if you are seriously not using rotary fittings i would highly recommend trying them- the quality ones are amazing and far better to work with
> 
> completely OT i just saw these and wow. i really like the visual






as i said completely different. there are a few things that are more dictated by function and that limits the form. ( mainly multiple rotaries ) that said, you can be completely different in all others, as this one shows ---from above



now onto monsoon. while chaingun are not your style, i feel your statement is frankly rather harsh but you are entitled to your opinion.... but to prove your wrong., i will only use one manufacture chaingun 
original  economy v2  economy v1 ( and primochill ) 

and now other companies   
-and i have not listed all--- swiftech, bitspower xspc, not to be over looked, but i feel i have proved my point

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Some rotary 90º fittings, I remember people talking about this earlier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From left to right, it is EK-XSPC-Alphacool-Barrow-Bitspower. The EK fitting was not in a silver/nickel finish to begin with, so excuse the color. The Bitspower one has seen use also, hence the light tarnish.


even these are uniquely different.... well all but one.. sure there are similarities but different


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

LOL, well we're obviously never going to agree on that Mega... as all of the pics you included (especially that gawd-awful thing at the top) only prove my point as far as I'm concerned - while clearly proving your point as far as you're concerned. I do appreciate you posting it however, as I've never seen it before - wouldn't ever use it, but still it is a good example of 'different'.

Sure you can paste on all kinds of angles or add-on bits, change colors or logos... but the bottom line is there is a single _optimal_ internal channel from two cylinders 90 degrees opposed to each other. Which is why no matter what you put in the pipe - gas, water, wires, air, etc... all 90 degree elbows in any other world look almost identical to the image provided by geggeg at the bottom of your post.

As far as the chaingun, revolver, etc... while the non-functional part is unique (though not to my liking any more than that ugly angular one) - the _functional_ part is identical as determined by the tubing, etc and/or the G1/4 standard threading. I certainly won't argue that there isn't a great deal of copying going on - in this and every other industry - but to some extent it's like the Apple vs. Samsung wars... you could make something that looked or worked totally different... but it wouldn't be comfortable to hold or simple to use and most designs would compromise both for the sake of appearance only.

Look at everything else around the computer - mice, keyboards, monitors, headphones, speakers, your desk, etc... other than colors and unnecessary decorations - they're all copies of a hundred similar products (all driven by function and/or comfort primarily). Look under your sinks or in your attic/basement... I couldn't possibly guess at the brands represented, but I guarantee I could tell you the shape of any pipes, traps, conduit and fittings you see there.


----------



## Mega Man

i am sorry, you were trying to say that " a 90 is a 90 and cant be made different " due to the function ? seriously ? by your logic a house is a house and a car is a car, clothes are clothes..... ect, now as much as you can deny it - there is something in your life you value the differences in looks vs function - and frankly is a poor argument that reflects poorly on your reputation

( or from your avatar - a gun is a gun )

things may look similar, but not be the same which is my point in the quote by geggeg - they do look similar, but if you look they are different


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Beautiful! Always enjoy the look of a well done build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a related note, I saw you used DIYMOD's 16awg FEP for your cables (nice work there as well), and I've got a couple of hundred feet of the stuff on hand as well now. I'm assuming you also used 16 gauge terminals with the wire and connector housings, but please correct me if I'm mistaken. Additionally, anything you might add as something I should watch out for with respect to crimping those terminals would be a great help (e.g., use Molex branded 16awg terminals, housings, etc.). I do have a Molex branded crimper on hand to do the work. TIA!


Thanks!, i had the cables made for me, i just specified what length i wanted each cable and what connectors i wanted on each one.. i really wouldn't have the patience to make my own.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am sorry, you were trying to say that " a 90 is a 90 and cant be made different " due to the function ? seriously ? by your logic a house is a house and a car is a car, clothes are clothes..... ect, now as much as you can deny it - there is something in your life you value the differences in looks vs function - and frankly is a poor argument that reflects poorly on your reputation
> 
> ( or from your avatar - a gun is a gun )
> 
> things may look similar, but not be the same which is my point in the quote by geggeg - they do look similar, but if you look they are different


OK you win all the internets! Happy?









All of your ad hominem attacks won't change the fact of a _functionally optimum_ design in almost anything - the possibility of aesthetic (but non-functional) differences separating any product was never my argument. Nor did I ever indicate that I don't purchase things for aesthetic reasons - otherwise I wouldn't think any fittings were 'attractive' nor others 'ugly'. Good night and I hope tomorrow is filled with only people that agree on all points with you.









And yes, I would argue that (at least by type: rifle, pistol, etc.) there are virtually no differences between firearms from different manufacturers - in fact many components are interchangeable for exactly that reason. Because there are only one or two objectively BEST ways of making one, even if there are many subjectively COOLER/PRETTIER ways to do it. Not saying that improvements aren't made in all areas... however, if a truly better way of engineering anything is discovered - within a short period of time, everyone will just make it that way. And the cycle of progress repeats.


----------



## Mega Man

Feel free to use my trigger from my super nova in a 870 express ... cause most are interchangeable. They are both 12ga right?


----------



## Ceadderman

Of course the internals won't change. The internals are standardized and accepted around the world. G1/4 will remain the accepted form of connection and compression fittings by their very nature will remain as the accepted form of connection. For those who don't like compression fittings, well there are push fit and barb options that have been round since water cooling infancy.









Going back to the car analogy, an internal combustion engine is the norm. It's been around for 100 years or more. But we don't zero in on that when comparing cars. Looks are generally what tells us whether some was copied or not.









Monsoon looks like a dressup item for a Honda?!?









Sorry you feel this way. BP has that distinction if it is considered a bad one. How many colors do they churn out over their manufacturing cycle? Rather unfair to suggest that Monsoon is, considering the innovative design of Monsoon's MMRS system. Nobody did a pushfit/clamp style reservoir before Monsoon did and it looks awesome.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Feel free to use my trigger from my super nova in a 870 express ... cause most are interchangeable. They are both 12ga right?


Miss my Browning 12ga, hope to buy a new one when I get back to GA and plan to go through the licensing up here in MA as well.


----------



## nycgtr

Any one use the EK-RES X3 250 upside down before. I have in the configuration where I am using the top fill port connected to the pump. In the manual it says to use it only as a an external fill port. I don't see why this would an issue. Any opinions?


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> And yes, I would argue that (at least by type: rifle, pistol, etc.) there are virtually no differences between firearms from different manufacturers - in fact many components are interchangeable for exactly that reason. Because there are only one or two objectively BEST ways of making one, even if there are many subjectively COOLER/PRETTIER ways to do it. Not saying that improvements aren't made in all areas... however, if a truly better way of engineering anything is discovered - within a short period of time, everyone will just make it that way. And the cycle of progress repeats.


Firearm components are rarely interchangeable between different manufacturers except when they are from weapons that have to follow MIL-SPEC standards. For example, only two companies possess the technical data package TDP provided by the U.S. Government to manufacture the AR15/M16 rifle, Colt and FN. All other companies had to reverse engineer the design which has resulted in slight variances or even creative changes to certain aspects which make many parts not interchangeable. MIL-SPEC weapons aside, you'd be hard pressed to find many firearms with high numbers of interchangeable parts. Some manufacturers have gone as far as requiring a special screwdriver set like on my late 1920's Fabrique National Browning Auto-5.

Quote:


> Feel free to use my trigger from my super nova in a 870 express ... cause most are interchangeable. They are both 12ga right?


I'll give the guy the benefit of the doubt by saying he was likely referring to Mil-spec weapons because there is no chance in hell those trigger groups on that Benelli and Remington are compatible.

Anyways... i think this thread has taken quite a detour. So ill attempt to segway things back to the topic of water cooling....


----------



## bintang1180

One of the results my build using the old Corsair 900D case, they call this double everything, but I call it the MUBA project
Here are the specs :

★ ROG Rampage V edition 10
★ Intel i7 6850K
★ Tridentz 8gb x DDR4
★ EVGA 1080 FTW SLI
★ Samsung 950 PRO M.2 512gb pcie 3.0x4
★ Corsair 900D
★ Corsair AX1200i
★ Corsair PRO 140 white LED
Watercooling specs:
★ Aquacomputer
★ Singularity
★ Bitspower
★ EKWB
★ Meyhems Aurora Silver

Loop Plan


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Motherboard And Processor


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Just Arrived


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Replaced EKWB GPU blocks


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Test Fitt


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







LED Custom Motherbooard ,CPU and GPU Blocks


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Custom Sleeved Cables


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Prepare To implement the loop Plan


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Result


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Meyhems Concentrate


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Final Result


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












thanks


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bintang1180*
> 
> One of the results my build using the old Corsair 900D case, they call this double everything, but I call it the MUBA project
> Here are the specs :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ★ ROG Rampage V edition 10
> ★ Intel i7 6850K
> ★ Tridentz 8gb x DDR4
> ★ EVGA 1080 FTW SLI
> ★ Samsung 950 PRO M.2 512gb pcie 3.0x4
> ★ Corsair 900D
> ★ Corsair AX1200i
> ★ Corsair PRO 140 white LED
> Watercooling specs:
> ★ Aquacomputer
> ★ Singularity
> ★ Bitspower
> ★ EKWB
> ★ Meyhems Aurora Silver
> 
> Loop Plan
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Motherboard And Processor
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just Arrived
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced EKWB GPU blocks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test Fitt
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LED Custom Motherbooard ,CPU and GPU Blocks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom Sleeved Cables
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prepare To implement the loop Plan
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Result
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meyhems Concentrate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Result
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


GOD DAMN what a beauty. nice work
personally I would set the RGB on the RAM on one set colour, either white or a light ocra. multicolour just doesnt seem to fit, imho


----------



## Drizztly

This is surely a beauty! Love the tubing! Good work!


----------



## bintang1180

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> GOD DAMN what a beauty. nice work
> personally I would set the RGB on the RAM on one set colour, either white or a light ocra. multicolour just doesnt seem to fit, imho


yes for sure , right noow the RGB was turn off , just using one color (white)








and thanks dude


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Thanks!, i had the cables made for me, i just specified what length i wanted each cable and what connectors i wanted on each one.. i really wouldn't have the patience to make my own.


Ah, okay, thanks for letting me know


----------



## TheCautiousOne

A little bit O' Dat Purp?




TCO


----------



## aaronpiatt




----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bintang1180*
> 
> One of the results my build using the old Corsair 900D case, they call this double everything, but I call it the MUBA project
> Here are the specs :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ★ ROG Rampage V edition 10
> ★ Intel i7 6850K
> ★ Tridentz 8gb x DDR4
> ★ EVGA 1080 FTW SLI
> ★ Samsung 950 PRO M.2 512gb pcie 3.0x4
> ★ Corsair 900D
> ★ Corsair AX1200i
> ★ Corsair PRO 140 white LED
> Watercooling specs:
> ★ Aquacomputer
> ★ Singularity
> ★ Bitspower
> ★ EKWB
> ★ Meyhems Aurora Silver
> 
> Loop Plan
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Motherboard And Processor
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just Arrived
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced EKWB GPU blocks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test Fitt
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LED Custom Motherbooard ,CPU and GPU Blocks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom Sleeved Cables
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prepare To implement the loop Plan
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Result
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meyhems Concentrate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Result
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


your build looks great!









and so is the use of spoilers in your post.


----------



## IT Diva

And a little more white S3 goodness . . . .:









Darlene


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And a little more white S3 goodness . . . .:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene








































That is looking great as usual.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bintang1180*
> 
> One of the results my build using the old Corsair 900D case, they call this double everything, but I call it the MUBA project
> Here are the specs :
> 
> ★ ROG Rampage V edition 10
> ★ Intel i7 6850K
> ★ Tridentz 8gb x DDR4
> ★ EVGA 1080 FTW SLI
> ★ Samsung 950 PRO M.2 512gb pcie 3.0x4
> ★ Corsair 900D
> ★ Corsair AX1200i
> ★ Corsair PRO 140 white LED
> Watercooling specs:
> ★ Aquacomputer
> ★ Singularity
> ★ Bitspower
> ★ EKWB
> ★ Meyhems Aurora Silver
> 
> Loop Plan
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Motherboard And Processor
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just Arrived
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced EKWB GPU blocks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test Fitt
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LED Custom Motherbooard ,CPU and GPU Blocks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom Sleeved Cables
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prepare To implement the loop Plan
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Result
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meyhems Concentrate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Result
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


That looks awesome!







Makes me want to go ahead and get my midplate in and my hard tubing ordered even more for my 900d.


----------



## Sazexa

So, it's not quite finished, but, it's running. I still want to mount the pump and reservoir in the main chamber. I want to switch to frosted glass tubing. I need to repair one of my cables as it has a short and I had to hide the SSD. But for now, this works.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Any one use the EK-RES X3 250 upside down before. I have in the configuration where I am using the top fill port connected to the pump. In the manual it says to use it only as a an external fill port. I don't see why this would an issue. Any opinions?


i dont see why not
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bintang1180*
> 
> One of the results my build using the old Corsair 900D case, they call this double everything, but I call it the MUBA project
> 
> Meyhems Concentrate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Result
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


does anyone else see margarita ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronpiatt*


wow, you made that look amazing !


----------



## ricercar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And a little more white S3 goodness . . . .:


OK ... I don't understand the path from the res to the pumps. Are you just fitting things in place here without connecting them yet?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> OK ... I don't understand the path from the res to the pumps. Are you just fitting things in place here without connecting them yet?


If you look at the top picture you can see that they are still working out their loop or at least still building it. They GPU doesn't have any fittings on it yet either.


----------



## bintang1180

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> your build looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and so is the use of spoilers in your post.


thanks dude.
hahaha just accustomed follow the rules at my region forum dude








which is using spoilers if u want post a some picture LOL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is looking great as usual.
> That looks awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me want to go ahead and get my midplate in and my hard tubing ordered even more for my 900d.


and the go dude








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont see why not
> does anyone else see margarita ?
> wow, you made that look amazing !


yes i see


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont see why not
> does anyone else see margarita ?
> wow, you made that look amazing !


I see a Trader Vic's Mai Tai.


----------



## sdmf74

Hey guys will a stock intel cpu cooler from devil's canyon i7 4790k LGA1150 work on a new i7 7770k (z270) LGA1151 socket?

Lol before you all reach through my phone and slap some sense into me I'm just thinkin it might be wise to make sure everything powers up before put in my gpu & cut new tubing and fill her all up. I'm upgrading from z97 to z270 and changing some colors, tubing, wiring etc.


----------



## Mega Man

( PLEASE NOTE I AM JOKING< I E DONT DO IT ..... ) if it doesnt just drill out th emobo, i mean jayz did it......


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Hey guys will a stock intel cpu cooler from devil's canyon i7 4790k LGA1150 work on a new i7 7770k (z270) LGA1151 socket?
> 
> Lol before you all reach through my phone and slap some sense into me I'm just thinkin it might be wise to make sure everything powers up before put in my gpu & cut new tubing and fill her all up. I'm upgrading from z97 to z270 and changing some colors, tubing, wiring etc.


To my knowledge the form factor hasn't changed on cooler mounts for the entire 115X line - you could use a cooler from a sandy bridge even. Most cooler/block manufacturers use the same retention system for all 3 sockets.


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah I won't be drilling my new Formula,that was funny though. Did Jayz2cents really do that lol. Gonna have to hunt that video down now.
Thanks guys


----------



## Mega Man

Yes. And destroyed the board ...then proceeded to post the video....


----------



## sdmf74

Omg I hope that was like 10 years ago. He calls himself a professional installer I just that wasn't recent, too funny.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Omg I hope that was like 10 years ago. He calls himself a professional installer I just that wasn't recent, too funny.


If I remember correctly it was only a couple of years ago - think it was an x99 board too.


----------



## IT Diva

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricercar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And a little more white S3 goodness . . . .:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK ... I don't understand the path from the res to the pumps. Are you just fitting things in place here without connecting them yet?
Click to expand...

Just getting things basically planned out . . .

I'll be making a base similar to this one for my S5, to work with the slightly different placements, smaller size, and GPU encroachment in the S3:


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Omg I hope that was like 10 years ago. He calls himself a professional installer I just that wasn't recent, too funny.


Wasn't that long ago, maybe a year or two? Look for his EK Predator review as that's where he did it if I remember correctly.


----------



## Streetdragon

just a idea.... why do you color you fluid? ok for the look.. but all in all it is just dirt in the water or not? dirt that could clog everything.

yeah from time to time it looks good, for a build that stand in a showroom. but in an everyday-gaming-pc? dont know


----------



## Mjhieu

My Custom Loop with Metal hard-line from Bitspower







:thumb:

*EK-Supermarcy Evo Plexi Nickel Cpu Block

Ek Evo D5 top PWM G2 included Pump

Bitspower Tank Z ver 2 Reservoir

360 PE EK Radiator

Bitspower Metal Brass Hard Silver shining 12mm Tubing

All Fittings is from Barrow*


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> just a idea.... why do you color you fluid? ok for the look.. but all in all it is just dirt in the water or not? dirt that could clog everything.
> 
> yeah from time to time it looks good, for a build that stand in a showroom. but in an everyday-gaming-pc? dont know


It's quite a bit more (or less depending on how you look at it) than dirt. Sure some of the more exotic fluids/dyes will indeed cause sediment collection - notably those with pearl effects like aurora - but they are also not intended for long term use.

On the other hand I've run pastel coolant in a couple of my builds for over 4 years so far with no problems. When I did a tear-down around the 2 year mark there was actually way more gunk from the one radiator I obviously didn't flush well enough







than there was from the pastel.

My new build is running clear - but it's fluid not just water (Mayhems X1 in my case) - so even that has 'stuff in the water' - though it's just corrosion inhibitors, etc. Dyes might stain your tubes or blocks eventually but they're not sedimentary dyes - more like slighly oily if anything. But it only takes a few drops to dye a loop (depending) so the concentrations are very small.

If you didn't tear everything apart before assembly, and flush your radiators religiously... there's almost guaranteed to be more stuff in your loop from them than there is if you added 10 drops of dye to the loop.

EDIT: And if you use tubing with plasticizer it can be 100 times worse - although I've never had big problems with it... many others have.


----------



## aka13

I always wondered about the "universal" waterblocks which only cover the GPU itself. To my understanding, if I equip the VRMs and the memory chips with passive heatsinks, that would more or less give me the same cooling as a fullcover block? Unless I would be overclocking extremely, that is.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> I always wondered about the "universal" waterblocks which only cover the GPU itself. To my understanding, if I equip the VRMs and the memory chips with passive heatsinks, that would more or less give me the same cooling as a fullcover block? Unless I would be overclocking extremely, that is.


got a uniblock and the mid plate of my card covers the vram and vrms; which does well BUT i have a junk 80mm fan blowing blowing up on the bottom.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





keep meaning to get a better PMW fan to use the gpu-4pin adapter instead of mobo header.










it's a good idea to have some thing blowing on any vrm/vram heat sink to disperse the heat better esp. using copper; which does great "pulling out" the heat but not as well as aluminum to radiate heat; but aluminum doesn't pull out the heat as well as copper (as how i understand it).


----------



## Ceadderman

I have two Thermospheres and two Swiftech 6950/6870 heatsinks modded to accommodate them on my 6870s. I wanted to be able to mount fans so that my heatsinks would keep the RAM and VRMs reasonably chilly and didn't want little heatsinks falling off from heat. I think it worked well for my needs. Now I am moving to an RX 480 with FC block. So the 6870s will be used for Folding and bitcoin mining. They won't get me much in mining but I can run them 24/7 in the sig rig as that is soon to be my Server/NAS box, as I am moving to a Ryzen platform full-time as my Gaming/Folding system. Gonna make up for lost time.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Omg I hope that was like 10 years ago. He calls himself a professional installer I just that wasn't recent, too funny.
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember correctly it was only a couple of years ago - think it was an x99 board too.
Click to expand...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67glAjdvwLc&feature=youtu.be&t=10m35s
Quote:


> this is probably the most stupid thing i have done


not one. but 2 boards... he was able to boot with the second board..... but come on......

" and the thermal paste has not even cured yet " ..... /sigh arctic silver needs do die already ... pretty sure he is using the ek brand paste too.... which does not need to cure


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> false
> Just getting things basically planned out . . .
> 
> I'll be making a base similar to this one for my S5, to work with the slightly different placements, smaller size, and GPU encroachment in the S3:


Very nice work!


----------



## Ceadderman

AS5 is so danged 20th Century. If I want an old TIM, I will get some G751 which has a better burn in time.









But I went with Hydronaut my last TIM purchase. Although it felt like it was old TIM when I went to apply it to the GPU chip on my 480. Stuff required some muscle to push out through the nozzle.









~Ceadder


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> AS5 is so danged 20th Century. If I want an old TIM, I will get some G751 which has a better burn in time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I went with Hydronaut my last TIM purchase. Although it felt like it was old TIM when I went to apply it to the GPU chip on my 480. Stuff required some muscle to push out through the nozzle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It may not be the best (although it's usually in the top 10%) but I still love my PK-3. Flows well, stays fairly viscous even after a year or more, and conducts well - all at a reasonable(ish) price.. at least compared to the Grizzly stuff. Not perfect, but I bought a big tube (5g IIRC) a few years ago for ~$20 and must have done 30 applications with it since. I still have about half the tube left, and would probably have 70% of it left if it weren't for my passive Streacom HTPC builds... takes a lot of goo to fill the gaps between the plates, heatpipes, and sinks.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> just a idea.... why do you color you fluid? ok for the look.. but all in all it is just dirt in the water or not? dirt that could clog everything.
> 
> yeah from time to time it looks good, for a build that stand in a showroom. but in an everyday-gaming-pc? dont know


I use UV reactive fluid and UV cold cathode lights specifically so i know if there is a leak. Any fluid that leaks out glows very bright and is very noticeable. It already saved my butt once after a rotary fitting had a small leak that developed a few weeks after finishing the build.


----------



## Revan654

[/URL]


^ For those who want to light up their tubing. They slide over the tubing (These are not fittings), Plus you get more LED's compared to lighting fittings out their. It comes in all your basic colors (No RGB version yet) & UV version.


----------



## Lee0

I wonder if that fitting will in the future be made for soft tubing as well. I would definitely purchase it if that was the case.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> ^ For those who want to light up their tubing. They slide over the tubing (These are not fittings), Plus you get more LED's compared to lighting fittings out their. It comes in all your basic colors (No RGB version yet) & UV version.


Hiding the cables could be a mission if you have lots of these


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Hiding the cables could be a mission if you have lots of these


Yes, and the cables seem a bit short since tubes start all over a pc case. Front of the case, top of the case, basement and etc.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> ^ For those who want to light up their tubing. They slide over the tubing (These are not fittings), Plus you get more LED's compared to lighting fittings out their. It comes in all your basic colors (No RGB version yet) & UV version.


That's an infinitely better solution than Thermaltake's. The short cable length is baffling though.


----------



## dwolvin

I'd think that as long as the tube fits snug it will work, and soft might even be able to squeeze in a bit...


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> I wonder if that fitting will in the future be made for soft tubing as well. I would definitely purchase it if that was the case.


I'd be all over that too. I've got UV-sensitive fluid flowing through my soft tubing and those would be a lot cleaner than trying to find spots for LED strips in my Core P5 case.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That's an infinitely better solution than Thermaltake's. The short cable length is baffling though.


You can always just add a fan cable extensions if you need it longer. Most cables these days seem to be only 30cm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> I wonder if that fitting will in the future be made for soft tubing as well. I would definitely purchase it if that was the case.


It's possible, I wouldn't count on it. From What I seen with lighting inside tubing. The light doesn't travel well in soft tubing due to bends.


----------



## XKaan

Done - finally happy with the lighting. I need better pics, but wanted to share regardless.



Asrock TaiChi x99
EVGA 1080Ti
i7 6800k
32 GB Crucial Ballistix ddr4
Seasonic Snow Silent 850
D5 with bitspower mod kit, white mod top, 300mm res
All Barrow white fittings
Bitspower Crystal Link
EK Evo X99
EK Titan-X full cover block
480mm white Hardware Labs
Corsair HD120's


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Done - finally happy with the lighting. I need better pics, but wanted to share regardless.
> 
> 
> 
> Asrock TaiChi x99
> EVGA 1080Ti
> i7 6800k
> 32 GB Crucial Ballistix ddr4
> Seasonic Snow Silent 850
> D5 with bitspower mod kit, white mod top, 300mm res
> All Barrow white fittings
> Bitspower Crystal Link
> EK Evo X99
> EK Titan-X full cover block
> 480mm white Hardware Labs
> Corsair HD120's


What size tubing is that? 12mm or 16mm? I'm trying to make my mind up on which to go with on my build.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> What size tubing is that? 12mm or 16mm? I'm trying to make my mind up on which to go with on my build.


I'd guess 12mm although it could be 14mm... definitely smaller than 16mm though.

I'm using 14mm in mine and you can see even they stick out past the OD of the 90's etc. 16's would be 2mm wider than those (obviously).


----------



## kevindd992002

It's my first time building a custom water cooling system and I have a couple of questions:

1.) Are there motherboard that have headers for the two-pin plug of water temp inline sensors?

2.) Any other cheaper pump/res rad mount alternatives that will give me the same up/down adjustment range as those Ethereal's? Or is there a low profile pump/res rad mount wherein it allows you to adjust the installation height of the pump/res?

3.) If say my ambient is 24C and I achieve a delta T of 10C (water temp = 34C), does that mean all my components (GPU and CPU) under load will be greater than 34C?


----------



## Excession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 1.) Are there motherboard that have headers for the two-pin plug of water temp inline sensors?


They're fairly common on higher end boards. Look at the internal I/O connector section of the motherboard's spec sheet. Should be called thermal sensor headers or thermistor headers or something like that.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> What size tubing is that? 12mm or 16mm? I'm trying to make my mind up on which to go with on my build.


12mm my friend


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That's an infinitely better solution than Thermaltake's. The short cable length is baffling though.


Maybe they should do like the eLoop fans. Have short connector, then provide different length extender cables.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 3.) If say my ambient is 24C and I achieve a delta T of 10C (water temp = 34C), does that mean all my components (GPU and CPU) under load will be greater than 34C?


You have to take in consideration the losses of the system, the waterblocks don't have perfect heat transfer, specially with the CPU since they have IHS and some have a really bad TIM inside
The GPU is direct to die, so i think with a good thermalpaste you can get temps really close to the water temp


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> You have to take in consideration the losses of the system, the waterblocks don't have perfect heat transfer, specially with the CPU since they have IHS and some have a really bad TIM inside
> The GPU is direct to die, so i think with a good thermalpaste you can get temps really close to the water temp


I see but is it possible to have a delta T (GPU core temps vs. ambient temp) of around 2-3C for a basic 2x280mm rad system with CPU and GPU as the components to cool?


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see but is it possible to have a delta T (GPU core temps vs. ambient temp) of around 2-3C for a basic 2x280mm rad system with CPU and GPU as the components to cool?


I never tested but now i'm curious about it ahahaha. Today when i arrive home i will do it.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see but is it possible to have a delta T (GPU core temps vs. ambient temp) of around 2-3C for a basic 2x280mm rad system with CPU and GPU as the components to cool?


This will not happen. Maybe the delta T with the water temp VS ambient temp but not the GPU core temp


----------



## kevindd992002

Got it. So I guess that leaves me with my 2nd question:

2.) Any other cheaper pump/res rad mount alternatives that will give me the same up/down adjustment range as those Ethereal's? Or is there a low profile pump/res rad mount wherein it allows you to adjust the installation height of the pump/res?

Any ideas on this?


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see but is it possible to have a delta T (GPU core temps vs. ambient temp) of around 2-3C for a basic 2x280mm rad system with CPU and GPU as the components to cool?


Here you have the testing results, take this with a grain of salt because is not "Scientific". But can give you a good idea









*IDLE*
The water temp is close to the ambient temp on IDLE, just check the GPU - CPU - Motherboard ect are almost the same





*GPU FULL LOAD*

I use Valley 1.0 to stress the GPU. Everytime the Delta T was 10-11°C between the water temp and GPU temp. Max GPU temp was 36° s



Keep in consideration that my watercooling setup isn't the best, i have a 360mm slim crossflow radiator that for the desing is less efficient than a normal one and is a bit small for a 1070 and the 4790k O.C.
The thermal paste of the GPU and CPU is MX-4. with liquid metal i'm totally sure that i can lower a couple of degrees


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here you have the testing results, take this with a grain of salt because is not "Scientific". But can give you a good idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *IDLE*
> The water temp is close to the ambient temp on IDLE, just check the GPU - CPU - Motherboard ect are almost the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *GPU FULL LOAD*
> 
> I use Valley 1.0 to stress the GPU. Everytime the Delta T was 10-11°C between the water temp and GPU temp. Max GPU temp was 36° s
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in consideration that my watercooling setup isn't the best, i have a 360mm slim crossflow radiator that for the desing is less efficient than a normal one and is a bit small for a 1070 and the 4790k O.C.
> The thermal paste of the GPU and CPU is MX-4. with liquid metal i'm totally sure that i can lower a couple of degrees


Great, thanks for the effort! I would have a 360mm and a 280mm on my new setup so I would think that it would be better but then our ambient temps here (without AC) is already around 33-35C. So that's going to be producing slightly higher delta T's.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Got it. So I guess that leaves me with my 2nd question:
> 
> 2.) Any other cheaper pump/res rad mount alternatives that will give me the same up/down adjustment range as those Ethereal's? Or is there a low profile pump/res rad mount wherein it allows you to adjust the installation height of the pump/res?
> 
> Any ideas on this?


That look as good? Not in my opinion, but as far as the _cheaper_ part of your question - sure. The default plastic bitspower clamps work exactly the same way (when coupled with fan adapter brackets) and they usually come free with their reservoirs - depending on where you buy it I suppose.

Not nearly as pretty as the singularity mounts, but still a clamp that you can adjust the height by 'sliding' the res up or down as needed. If you are planning on keeping everything completely suspended however, I'd recommend getting some silicone pads or tape to make it even more stable against vibration (the ethereals have pads for this purpose).

Until my last build all I ever used were the BP plastic clamps.


Don't have a pump/res combo in that one... because it's a dual DDC (which I think would be a little much maybe for it) but with a single pump/res I think it would work fine.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So what would be a safe amount of PETG to buy for a first time bender? I'm going to be getting the 1000mm tubes and my case is a 900d. Got a midplate going in so the basement will be soft tubing. Would 4 be more than enough in your opinions?

This is the loop as it stands.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> That look as good? Not in my opinion, but as far as the cheaper part of your question - sure. The default plastic bitspower clamps work exactly the same way (when coupled with fan adapter brackets) and they usually come free with their reservoirs - depending on where you buy it I suppose.
> 
> Not nearly as pretty as the singularity mounts, but still a clamp that you can adjust the height by 'sliding' the res up or down as needed. If you are planning on keeping everything completely suspended however, I'd recommend getting some silicone pads or tape to make it even more stable against vibration (the ethereals have pads for this purpose).
> 
> Until my last build all I ever used were the BP plastic clamps.
> 
> 
> Don't have a pump/res combo in that one... because it's a dual DDC (which I think would be a little much maybe for it) but with a single pump/res I think it would work fine.


They definitely don't look as good as the Ethereal's, that's a given  You get what you pay for but hey, it works for first time builders, I guess.

Actually, my goal is to not use a pump/res combo. Instead, I want to use these:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-plexi-incl-pump

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150-lite

These two will be connected with the supplied M/M extender fitting (similar to your setup in the above pic) and want to do it exactly like this one:



He's using a Bitspower res there with the res to rad mounts that you recommended. Do I actually need to use mounts on both res and pump or would mounting the res to the rad enough to take on the weight load of the whole assembly (pump suspended)?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> He's using a Bitspower res there with the res to rad mounts that you recommended. Do I actually need to use mounts on both res and pump or would mounting the res to the rad enough to take on the weight load of the whole assembly (pump suspended)?


It _should_ be plenty - they hold tight when cranked down... and especially if you're only going with a 150 res then I would expect it to be fine. I can't guarantee it of course, since I've not run an identical setup for proof, but considering people have just used two on 400 reservoirs before - I can't see any issues.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> So what would be a safe amount of PETG to buy for a first time bender? I'm going to be getting the 1000mm tubes and my case is a 900d. Got a midplate going in so the basement will be soft tubing. Would 4 be more than enough in your opinions?
> 
> This is the loop as it stands.


you need 4? and it is your first time? than buy 50% more. My 2 pennys


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> you need 4? and it is your first time? than buy 50% more. My 2 pennys


I agree totally, although 4m of tubing sounds like plenty to me, but maybe get a couple of 500s to spare along with. I'd recommend you leave any complicated (long with multiple bends) until last... that way the simpler runs will give you a chance to practice. No matter how many tutorials you watch/read - it takes a few before you get a feel for how much heat is just enough.

It's definitely far less frustrating to have an extra piece of PETG sitting in the closet waiting for your next build (or upgrade to the current one) than to have all but one section completed and have to wait another piece to get shipped.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> you need 4? and it is your first time? than buy 50% more. My 2 pennys


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I agree totally, although 4m of tubing sounds like plenty to me, but maybe get a couple of 500s to spare along with. I'd recommend you leave any complicated (long with multiple bends) until last... that way the simpler runs will give you a chance to practice. No matter how many tutorials you watch/read - it takes a few before you get a feel for how much heat is just enough.
> 
> It's definitely far less frustrating to have an extra piece of PETG sitting in the closet waiting for your next build (or upgrade to the current one) than to have all but one section completed and have to wait another piece to get shipped.


Sweet that's what I needed to hear. Since PPC's was out of the 12mm that I wanted I saw titan rig on amazon had them in 4 packs. That's why I ask if that would probably be enough. I talked to PPC the other day and they said they were putting in an order for it so I might just wait till they get theirs in.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Great, thanks for the effort! I would have a 360mm and a 280mm on my new setup so I would think that it would be better but then our ambient temps here (without AC) is already around *33-35C*. So that's going to be producing slightly higher delta T's.


With those radiators you will have much better performance than my setup (smaller delta).
In summer my room temps are over 35> ºC because i don't have AC. The temps increase quite a bit. GPU for example is arround 47ºC







But still waaaaaaay better than the stock blower of the GTX 1070 FE


----------



## VeritronX

Watercooled my new Ryzen 1700 using mostly old parts:


Spoiler: Part List



XSPC RS360 rad
3xGT's at ~900rpm
10w ddc with old EK top
new-ish EK 100mm res
EK Supremacy HF full nickel cpu block (that uses the stock AM4 backplate)



Stock wraith spire cooler at 3.8Ghz 1.27v = 74C max, Using the EK block 54C max. 20C reduction in temps.

Too much blackness in the case for my potato to capture unfortunately.


----------



## emsj86

For the price that tubing cost just always buy extra. One for mistakes two for having extra for the future if you change the loop up and 3 if you end up needing more it's a pain to pay the cost of the tubing just to ship and the wait time. I'm sure any one that has dos this for a while will tell you the same and trying to save a penny here and there specially on tubing always ends up costing you more


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> It _should_ be plenty - they hold tight when cranked down... and especially if you're only going with a 150 res then I would expect it to be fine. I can't guarantee it of course, since I've not run an identical setup for proof, but considering people have just used two on 400 reservoirs before - I can't see any issues.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> With those radiators you will have much better performance than my setup (smaller delta).
> In summer my room temps are over 35> ºC because i don't have AC. The temps increase quite a bit. GPU for example is arround 47ºC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But still waaaaaaay better than the stock blower of the GTX 1070 FE


Ok, that's good to hear. Do you guys have any other recommended reservoir to get instead of the EK?

And same question, how long of a soft tubing do I buy for first time builders with my components in an Enthoo Evolv ATX? 2 rads, 1 pump, 1 res, 1 cpu block, and 1 gpu block.


----------



## dwolvin

If the tubing is by the foot, buy about 10 feet (extra is good, I promise).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> If the tubing is by the foot, buy about 10 feet (extra is good, I promise).


15 ft, maybe? 10 ft is my original target.


----------



## dwolvin

Oh- sure. Huge case, or external rad?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Oh- sure. Huge case, or external rad?


Nope, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX so a mid tower. Rads will be 3600mm in top and 280mm in front.


----------



## dwolvin

Ah- well, to much is never enough!


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Nope, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX so a mid tower. Rads will be 3600mm in top and 280mm in front.


With 10ft you will be fine. Measure ten times cut one








I recommend EK ZMT or Primochill tubing, this brands don't have problem with "plasticizering" (is the correct word ? lol)


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And same question, how long of a soft tubing do I buy for first time builders with my components in an Enthoo Evolv ATX? 2 rads, 1 pump, 1 res, 1 cpu block, and 1 gpu block.


I've done several builds with that number of components recently, and never even got close to using a 10-foot package of tubing. Even a first-timer shouldn't have to use the full 10 feet, unless you are deliberately going for the longest tube runs possible.

I second the recommendation of PrimoChill Advanced LRT tubing. I've used the Crystal Clear and the colored versions, with no problems.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> With 10ft you will be fine. Measure ten times cut one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend EK ZMT or Primochill tubing, this brands don't have problem with "plasticizering" (is the correct word ? lol)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> I've done several builds with that number of components recently, and never even got close to using a 10-foot package of tubing. Even a first-timer shouldn't have to use the full 10 feet, unless you are deliberately going for the longest tube runs possible.
> 
> I second the recommendation of PrimoChill Advanced LRT tubing. I've used the Crystal Clear and the colored versions, with no problems.


Thanks! The Primochill Advanced LRT is what I have in mind but then it is not compatible with they Mayhems Pastel according to @Mayhem . So what are my other plasticizer-free options other than the EK ZMT?


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks! The Primochill Advanced LRT is what I have in mind but then it is not compatible with they Mayhems Pastel according to @Mayhem . So what are my other plasticizer-free options other than the EK ZMT?


EKWB Dura Clear is also really good tube but only comes on 16/12mm. My personal favorite is EKWB ZMT is made of EPDM, same material used on orings for example. Is very resistant to chemicals (except petrol based) and have a funny smell









I just my opinion but stay away from any type of colorant specially Mayhems Pastel, just run distilled water and some clear DYE.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> EKWB Dura Clear is also really good tube but only comes on 16/12mm. My personal favorite is EKWB ZMT is made of EPDM, same material used on orings for example. Is very resistant to chemicals (except petrol based) and have a funny smell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just my opinion but stay away from any type of colorant specially Mayhems Pastel, just run distilled water and some clear DYE.


Looks like the duraclear comes in 3/8 x 5/8 as well (9.5x15.9) which is the same size as the zmt stuff I use with ek acf fittings (10x16mm).

Relayed topic, how is the duraclear vs primochill lrt when it comes to plasticizer, clearness, fading, staining?


----------



## bluedevil

Just finished up...

https://ibb.co/jw8nBQ
https://ibb.co/kbFCd5
https://ibb.co/h9tb5k

http://www.overclock.net/t/1622198/sponsored-project-bluedevil/60#post_26052812


----------



## Ceadderman

Love that build bd.









On a related note I am in the process of finalizing my build components for my Sponsored build. I know exactly what I want so over the summer I will be compiling them and hope to be finished by September early October at the latest. I've got enough(12') of acrylic hardline Monsoon(1/2"x5/8") tubing. I actually had no real problems with bending so decided to stick with Acrylic over PETG. White though so clarity is not a concern. Should look sweet with Black Monsoon Economies EV2 fittings etched with Imperial insignias and Ryzen Logos between them.









On the top of a recommended Reservoir, I must suggest maybe looking at the Monsoon MMRS system. You can build it up in any configuration your heart desires. With or without the pump included in the end design.









~Ceadder


----------



## MURDoctrine

Hey what size hole do you have to make for the bitspower passthrough fittings?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> With 10ft you will be fine. Measure ten times cut one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend EK ZMT or Primochill tubing, this brands don't have problem with "plasticizering" (is the correct word ? lol)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> I've done several builds with that number of components recently, and never even got close to using a 10-foot package of tubing. Even a first-timer shouldn't have to use the full 10 feet, unless you are deliberately going for the longest tube runs possible.
> 
> I second the recommendation of PrimoChill Advanced LRT tubing. I've used the Crystal Clear and the colored versions, with no problems.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks! The Primochill Advanced LRT is what I have in mind but then it is not compatible with they Mayhems Pastel according to @Mayhem . So what are my other plasticizer-free options other than the EK ZMT?
Click to expand...

I really like the mayhems tubing. It's also cheaper than the primochill.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Hey what size hole do you have to make for the bitspower passthrough fittings?


I want to say 13/16" but despite drilling a gob of them... I can't say 100%. If you use a step-bit (which is highly recommended) just check it after each step once you get close. The holes in the CaseLabs accessory mount bars are just _slightly_ too small and they are 3/4" diameter holes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok, that's good to hear. Do you guys have any other recommended reservoir to get instead of the EK?


I'd say a reservoir is a reservoir for the most part - go by size, style, brand, cost, type - whatever seems to go best with your build. They're not even necessary at all, but they do make bleeding (and to a lesser extent filling/draining) your loop easier. You can even roll your own as several have done using their favorite liquor bottle.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Hey what size hole do you have to make for the bitspower passthrough fittings?


It's 20mm. or for imperial folks, 25/32"


----------



## kevindd992002

Sorry for the wrong information, Mayhems NORMAL Pastel is compatible with Primochill Advanced LRT but not with Mayhems Pastel EXTREME. Link here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/14630#post_25971104

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> EKWB Dura Clear is also really good tube but only comes on 16/12mm. My personal favorite is EKWB ZMT is made of EPDM, same material used on orings for example. Is very resistant to chemicals (except petrol based) and have a funny smell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just my opinion but stay away from any type of colorant specially Mayhems Pastel, just run distilled water and some clear DYE.


I understand how some people are against the Mayhems Pastel but there should be no issues with the loop as long as you do due dilligence in cleaning the loop (especially the rads) before filling it with such coolant. As a first time water cooling system builder, I've did my research and concluded that I use Pastel  But that's another topic for a different time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I really like the mayhems tubing. It's also cheaper than the primochill.


Thanks for the recommendation. I'll make sure to look into the Mayhems tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I'd say a reservoir is a reservoir for the most part - go by size, style, brand, cost, type - whatever seems to go best with your build. They're not even necessary at all, but they do make bleeding (and to a lesser extent filling/draining) your loop easier. You can even roll your own as several have done using their favorite liquor bottle.


Lol, ok. Do you know which WC brands make glass reservoirs? So far, I only see EKWB, XSPC, and Aquacomputer. EKWB does not sell standalone glass reservoirs that are small though.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol, ok. Do you know which WC brands make glass reservoirs? So far, I only see EKWB, XSPC, and Aquacomputer. EKWB does not sell standalone glass reservoirs that are small though.


Watercool as well - though hardly cheap the heatkiller reservoirs are some of the most attractive IMO... however they are one of the ones my previous comments regarding the BP clamps do not apply to - you have to use their custom mounts or craft your own. Their mounts aren't bad however - ~$16 or so... but the reservoir will run $70-90 so all depends on what you're going for.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Watercool as well - though hardly cheap the heatkiller reservoirs are some of the most attractive IMO... however they are one of the ones my previous comments regarding the BP clamps do not apply to - you have to use their custom mounts or craft your own. Their mounts aren't bad however - ~$16 or so... but the reservoir will run $70-90 so all depends on what you're going for.


I did check on those too but I'm not sure if they have a multi-top version. Do they?

In the reference pic you've posted (the one with the BP clamps), what reservoir was used? I also noticed that the separate BP water tank mount that you can buy are these: https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=171_187&products_id=2495 but the included ones in their reservoirs are the clamps that you've linked: http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-compact-150-black-acrylic-version.html . So I can't buy the clamps alone?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks! The Primochill Advanced LRT is what I have in mind but then it is not compatible with they Mayhems Pastel according to @Mayhem . So what are my other plasticizer-free options other than the EK ZMT?


Go with the mayhems soft tubing. It works for all the fluids. Primochill will work with mayhems pastel but not mayhems pastel extreme or xt nuke


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I did check on those too but I'm not sure if they have a multi-top version. Do they?
> 
> In the reference pic you've posted (the one with the BP clamps), what reservoir was used? I also noticed that the separate BP water tank mount that you can buy are these: https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=171_187&products_id=2495 but the included ones in their reservoirs are the clamps that you've linked: http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-compact-150-black-acrylic-version.html . So I can't buy the clamps alone?


Sorry for double post. Yes they have a multi port top. When you order it just make sure to select multi port top option. That way you don't have to spend the money to buy it separate. Make sure to buy the mounts as they don't come with it. But it's the best reservoir I've ever had.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Go with the mayhems soft tubing. It works for all the fluids. Primochill will work with mayhems pastel but not mayhems pastel extreme or xt nuke


Ok, that makes sense.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sorry for double post. Yes they have a multi port top. When you order it just make sure to select multi port top option. That way you don't have to spend the money to buy it separate. Make sure to buy the mounts as they don't come with it. But it's the best reservoir I've ever had.


Yeah, that's nice! I'll definitely check them. Is there a way to use them with only port on the bottom and three ports (multitop) on top? That way I can have a fill port, bleeder port, and a return line port on top and then just a single port on the bottom (not on the side as shown by its default configuration) that will directly connect to the inlet of the pump.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Done - finally happy with the lighting. I need better pics, but wanted to share regardless.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. I really like your tubing run ... seen a few of those cases and some of the runs ... well, lets say ... could be better







.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Very nice. I really like your tubing run ... seen a few of those cases and some of the runs ... well, lets say ... could be better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love that build bd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a related note I am in the process of finalizing my build components for my Sponsored build. I know exactly what I want so over the summer I will be compiling them and hope to be finished by September early October at the latest. I've got enough(12') of acrylic hardline Monsoon(1/2"x5/8") tubing. I actually had no real problems with bending so decided to stick with Acrylic over PETG. White though so clarity is not a concern. Should look sweet with Black Monsoon Economies EV2 fittings etched with Imperial insignias and Ryzen Logos between them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the top of a recommended Reservoir, I must suggest maybe looking at the Monsoon MMRS system. You can build it up in any configuration your heart desires. With or without the pump included in the end design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks alot!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I did check on those too but I'm not sure if they have a multi-top version. Do they?
> 
> In the reference pic you've posted (the one with the BP clamps), what reservoir was used? I also noticed that the separate BP water tank mount that you can buy are these: https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=171_187&products_id=2495 but the included ones in their reservoirs are the clamps that you've linked: http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-compact-150-black-acrylic-version.html . So I can't buy the clamps alone?


EMSJ86 answered the other part (and seriously there is _literally no comparison_ between the two... one is great and the other is... well, cheap). If you got a BP res kit, the clamps come with it for free as stated earlier. If you want to mount them to a fan then you buy the separate mount you linked above. If you got a different brand res and wanted cheap options or expensive ones, then you could alternately go with any of these (search is your friend, use it):

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=reservoir+clamp

Any clamps that aren't 'specialty' designs (like the heatkiller clamps, etc.) will work on any similar diameter reservoir - almost all are either 50mm or 60mm - just get the right size. Also with many of the manufacturers - not just BP - they will throw in the cheap clamps with the reservoir... just not on the higher end ones like that heatkiller.

For instance: http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-balancer-150-silver-nickel.html (haven't used a phobya... just saying it's another that comes with clamps for free).


----------



## Doran

Hello OCN community! Still have some cable sleeving to finish up as well as some cable managment but wanted to throw up a picture or two of my latest build. It's a full custom hard-lined loop in the Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX. Absolutely love this little build so far, however, loops in itx cases are rough haha. Even though I'm only rocking a single 240 EK rad, temps are absolutely amazing. Full 10 minute stress test on 3D Mark TimeSpy and both the CPU and GPU never crossed 60 C.

Originally I planned to go with Mayhems Pastel Red or White but I kind of like the clear look.


----------



## nycgtr

Still under construction but getting there.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doran*
> 
> Hello OCN community! Still have some cable sleeving to finish up as well as some cable managment but wanted to throw up a picture or two of my latest build. It's a full custom hard-lined loop in the Phanteks Entho Evolv ITX. Absolutely love this little build so far, however, loops in itx cases are rough haha. Even though I'm only rocking a single 240 EK rad, temps are absolutely amazing. Full 10 minute stress test on 3D Mark TimeSpy and both the CPU and GPU never crossed 60 C.
> 
> Originally I planned to go with Mayhems Pastel Red or White but I kind of like the clear look.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What are the mobo/cpu/gpu? Build turned out nice!


----------



## Doran

Beautiful, just beautiful!


----------



## Doran

Whoops, please excuse the extra post!


----------



## Doran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> What are the mobo/cpu/gpu? Build turned out nice!


Thanks Charlie!

Mobo: MSI Z170I Gaming Pro AC Mini ITX
CPU: Intel i5-6600k @ 4.5 Ghz
GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW

Temps
CPU Idle: 29
CPU Load: 58
GPU Idle: 32
GPU Load: 59


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Thanks, I have recently been bitten by the mITX bug and enjoy seeing the work of others.


----------



## VeritronX

Any tips on getting LED colour to capture right with a phone camera? the leds look deep red in real life and well defined but appear pink and blown out in pics =(


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Any tips on getting LED colour to capture right with a phone camera? the leds look deep red in real life and well defined but appear pink and blown out in pics =(


Remove the tempered glass. Does your phone camerahave manual controls? If not, get an LG.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Remove the tempered glass. Does your phone camerahave manual controls? If not, get an LG.


No tempered glass, that's side panel off looking straight at the parts. I have all the controls zeroed and auto atm, anything in particular I should adjust?


----------



## lever2stacks

I'm getting closer on this r1.0 build. I ran all the borosilicate for my loop today minus the gpu's just waiting on my 1080's to get here to finish the rest up.



Lever


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Any tips on getting LED colour to capture right with a phone camera? the leds look deep red in real life and well defined but appear pink and blown out in pics =(


use windows photo editor but no matter a potato pic is a potato pic


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sorry for double post. Yes they have a multi port top. When you order it just make sure to select multi port top option. That way you don't have to spend the money to buy it separate. Make sure to buy the mounts as they don't come with it. But it's the best reservoir I've ever had.


Where did you order the Heatkiller Tube with the option of choosing the multi-port top to save some bucks? I checked PPCS and they didn't have that option.

@DiGiCiDAL

Have you ever used a single SC Ethereal mount to mount a small/medium res/pump combo on a front rad? Or do you really need two?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Where did you order the Heatkiller Tube with the option of choosing the multi-port top to save some bucks? I checked PPCS and they didn't have that option.
> 
> @DiGiCiDAL
> 
> Have you ever used a single SC Ethereal mount to mount a small/medium res/pump combo on a front rad? Or do you really need two?


I think you can do that when you order from watercool direct.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I think you can do that when you order from watercool direct.


Oh I see. Not good then, shipping will kill me.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> use windows photo editor but no matter a potato pic is a potato pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Edited Pic


Looks kinda wierd on it's side like that, I took it at the normal angle.. it's a silverstone FT05 case, 360 rad on the bottom, res attached to the top of the case where the 120mm exhaust fan normally goes. I'm gonna fiddle with it a bit and see if I can get a decent pic.

Here's a bit better:


Still looks pretty lame though compared to the dark red that the lighting is in real life.


----------



## feznz

TBH the first pic looked like the reservoir was on the side which it is but I couldn't even make out the tide mark


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> TBH the first pic looked like the reservoir was on the side which it is but I couldn't even make out the tide mark


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Does your phone camerahave manual controls? If not, get an LG.


I found the manual settings, soo much nicer now =D

Just have to use lower ISO and longer shutter times it seems.. and hold it as steady as I can. This pic was taken at 1/3 shutter and 100 ISO with colour temp of ~6000k on a HTC M9 and then resized to 25% in windows if that helps anyone:


Spoiler: compressed pic







Edit: damnit now it's all compressed when I saved it and the blacks went on holiday or something =\

Edit2: ok same source file but new save of it:


----------



## Kostadinos

Hello mates , here is my baby and now is under construction. In a few days I will have complete my custom water cooling and in about a month I will purchases the GTX 1080 , hope you like it

CPU : Intel Core I7-7700K 4.2Ghz , RAM : G.Skill TridentZ RGB 16GB DDR4-3200MHz , Mobo: MSI Z170A Mpower Gaming Titanium Edition , GPU: ; , OS: OCZ Trion 150 240GB , Storage: Western Digital HDD 1TB 3.5'' 64MB SATA3 , Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass , Custom Watercooling from EK , Barrow & Formula Mod


----------



## MURDoctrine

Okay so I'm starting to get worried about my loop. Is there a way to completely clean/flush it other than hot water because I've done this and I still keep seeing something on my new ek gpu block. I chocked it up to the grease they use on the orings as it was sticky and that yellowish orange color. I didn't break it apart on putting it in the loop. I have a new cpu block, some hardline fittings and tubing coming next week and want to make sure nothing is wrong with my loop. I'll have to snag pictures of it but my 980's nickle block honestly looked like it had corrotion or something going on with it. The finish looked tarnished which shouldn't of happened. I only run distilled with a silver coil. It might be my imagination but I swear I'm seeing the same stuff starting to happen to my new 1080ti block as well but its less than 2 weeks old.

tl;dr
What is a good way to fully flush a loop and make sure it is as pH balanced as can be?


----------



## Lee0

To check your fluid's PH levels you could always pick one of these up: https://www.amazon.com/Learning-Resources-LER2480-Ph-Paper/dp/B0009K8PPS


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Okay so I'm starting to get worried about my loop. Is there a way to completely clean/flush it other than hot water because I've done this and I still keep seeing something on my new ek gpu block. I chocked it up to the grease they use on the orings as it was sticky and that yellowish orange color. I didn't break it apart on putting it in the loop. I have a new cpu block, some hardline fittings and tubing coming next week and want to make sure nothing is wrong with my loop. I'll have to snag pictures of it but my 980's nickle block honestly looked like it had corrotion or something going on with it. The finish looked tarnished which shouldn't of happened. I only run distilled with a silver coil. It might be my imagination but I swear I'm seeing the same stuff starting to happen to my new 1080ti block as well but its less than 2 weeks old.
> 
> tl;dr
> What is a good way to fully flush a loop and make sure it is as pH balanced as can be?


How did you clean your dad's to start with? If the rads were cleaned properly before you assembled the loop you can run Blitz Kit PART 2 on an assembled loop. If you didn't clean them properly before assembly I would suggest tearing down the loop and flushing with Part 1 and part 2


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Okay so I'm starting to get worried about my loop. Is there a way to completely clean/flush it other than hot water because I've done this and I still keep seeing something on my new ek gpu block. I chocked it up to the grease they use on the orings as it was sticky and that yellowish orange color. I didn't break it apart on putting it in the loop. I have a new cpu block, some hardline fittings and tubing coming next week and want to make sure nothing is wrong with my loop. I'll have to snag pictures of it but my 980's nickle block honestly looked like it had corrotion or something going on with it. The finish looked tarnished which shouldn't of happened. I only run distilled with a silver coil. It might be my imagination but I swear I'm seeing the same stuff starting to happen to my new 1080ti block as well but its less than 2 weeks old.
> 
> tl;dr
> What is a good way to fully flush a loop and make sure it is as pH balanced as can be?


get rid of that kill coil too. Bad news when used with nickel and imo should be replaced with a decent coolant no matter what


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @DiGiCiDAL
> 
> Have you ever used a single SC Ethereal mount to mount a small/medium res/pump combo on a front rad? Or do you really need two?


Well I sorta did both (single mount but I got the CORE so it's more like a 1.5 I'd say).










That's a 250mm res, BP D5 top/cover pump, single bracket to front radiator.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Okay so I'm starting to get worried about my loop. Is there a way to completely clean/flush it other than hot water because I've done this and I still keep seeing something on my new ek gpu block. I chocked it up to the grease they use on the orings as it was sticky and that yellowish orange color. I didn't break it apart on putting it in the loop. I have a new cpu block, some hardline fittings and tubing coming next week and want to make sure nothing is wrong with my loop. I'll have to snag pictures of it but my 980's nickle block honestly looked like it had corrotion or something going on with it. The finish looked tarnished which shouldn't of happened. I only run distilled with a silver coil. It might be my imagination but I swear I'm seeing the same stuff starting to happen to my new 1080ti block as well but its less than 2 weeks old.
> 
> tl;dr
> What is a good way to fully flush a loop and make sure it is as pH balanced as can be?


Who is still out there recommending kill coils. Why won't they just go away already.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Who is still out there recommending kill coils. Why won't they just go away already.


Because I've had it since like 2010 and honestly never had a single issue with my loop until very recently? I also had cleaned my rads properly with both a distilled water / vinegar mix when I first got them and also with full flushes with boiling distilled water. This last one I used hot water straight from the tap for 5-10 minutes on each and then flushed with 2-3 solid rinses with distilled. So I don't know. Will have all new parts except for the rads and few leftover soft tube compressions in my basement once my new stuff arrives. Plan on doing an extensive cleaning once again. I should also note I will probably be going with a pastel which will help with both biocide issues and be an inhibitor. My only concern was before adding it. I might grab some blitz as well and just run it through that too.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Well I sorta did both (single mount but I got the CORE so it's more like a 1.5 I'd say).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a 250mm res, BP D5 top/cover pump, single bracket to front radiator.


Nice! I think I might say good bye to my old trusty z77 M5E when the 299x chipset comes out just wondering if you plan on filling those empty PCI slots
I am on the wall what to get because I like the look of a extended ATX Mobo to fill out the case but I feel like I need to fill every slot or at least have 2 GPUs to fill the gaps.
Which now days seems the features on the board makes the need to have PCI soundcards or PCI SSDs I been thinking of getting a TV tuner card to fill my last PCIe slot though I feel I would never use it.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Nice! I think I might say good bye to my old trusty z77 M5E when the 299x chipset comes out just wondering if you plan on filling those empty PCI slots
> I am on the wall what to get because I like the look of a extended ATX Mobo to fill out the case but I feel like I need to fill every slot or at least have 2 GPUs to fill the gaps.
> Which now days seems the features on the board makes the need to have PCI soundcards or PCI SSDs I been thinking of getting a TV tuner card to fill my last PCIe slot though I feel I would never use it.


That's funny you mention that. I think that's one of the main reasons I got a sound card. Currently running a matx board but still felt that I needed another card down low to 'even it out'.

Don't get me wrong, I use the thing, it's just isn't really needed.


----------



## Shadowline2553

I haven't posted in this group in four years... then again I've not really done much building since I finished my last build and now it is about time for me to upgrade, though I will be retaining most of my cooling system.
This time I am going to be going with the Maximus IX Extreme, i7 7700k, and a GTX 1080Ti FE (Which I already have.) I am probably going to be putting an EK Block on the 1080Ti because right now it is really warm when I play games.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Okay so I'm starting to get worried about my loop. Is there a way to completely clean/flush it other than hot water because I've done this and I still keep seeing something on my new ek gpu block. I chocked it up to the grease they use on the orings as it was sticky and that yellowish orange color. I didn't break it apart on putting it in the loop. I have a new cpu block, some hardline fittings and tubing coming next week and want to make sure nothing is wrong with my loop. I'll have to snag pictures of it but my 980's nickle block honestly looked like it had corrotion or something going on with it. The finish looked tarnished which shouldn't of happened. I only run distilled with a silver coil. It might be my imagination but I swear I'm seeing the same stuff starting to happen to my new 1080ti block as well but its less than 2 weeks old.
> 
> tl;dr
> What is a good way to fully flush a loop and make sure it is as pH balanced as can be?
> 
> 
> 
> get rid of that kill coil too. Bad news when used with nickel and imo should be replaced with a decent coolant no matter what
Click to expand...

Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.

Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion.









~Ceadder


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.
> 
> Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion.


While I've read that Thermaltake and EKWB (and perhaps others) recommend against mixing silver and nickel-plated parts, much of the evidence seems to be anecdotal; and provided by those who claimed to have problems mixing the two in a loop. Such also seems to have been a more common occurrence a few years back.

That said, what I suspect may have happened up until some point in the past was the use of subpar electroplating processes which may have contributed to the problem. In any event, you know what they mean when they say "when in doubt..."

Also somewhat interesting reading, though geared toward chemically plated metals: *The Effect of Electroless Nickel Coatings on the Galvanic Corrosion of Other Metals*.

Edited: Not sure who wrote that paper, but it could be authentic. The same site offers a few additional articles of interest along similar lines *here*.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.
> 
> Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, *silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> ~Ceadder


Actually,the complete opposite is true,Silver readily corrodes copper. This is what causes the problems,silver corrodes the copper away,leaving nothing for the nickel strike to adhere to. Hence flakes. Rate of corrosion is dependent on surface potentials
You will not find lead in any RoHs compliant hardware.

Silver is outdated as a biocide.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually,the complete opposite is true,Silver readily corrodes copper. This is what causes the problems,silver corrodes the copper away,leaving nothing for the nickel strike to adhere to. Hence flakes. Rate of corrosion is dependent on surface potentials
> You will not find lead in any RoHs compliant hardware.
> 
> Silver is outdated as a biocide.


Meh using pt nuke for the time being then. Found a bottle i had stashed away. Just waiting on my new stuff to arrive so I can tear everything down and clean again and pray my block is actually fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.
> 
> Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, *silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually,the complete opposite is true,Silver readily corrodes copper. This is what causes the problems,silver corrodes the copper away,leaving nothing for the nickel strike to adhere to. Hence flakes. Rate of corrosion is dependent on surface potentials
> You will not find lead in any RoHs compliant hardware.
> 
> Silver is outdated as a biocide.
Click to expand...

I would assume that a quality plating wouldn't allow the copper to be broken down underneath the plating if what you say is true. Although I believe you might converse with BoxGods about Galvanic Corrosion charts. He believes that silver should be just fine in the loop. Although I cannot speak to his thoughts on pure .999 but on his use of silver plated fittings and bullet plugs.









~Ceadder


----------



## feznz

Just got a rant for EK helping my friend out with his 2nd replacement bay res that has the same manufacturing fault the 1/4 pump outlet has developed a hairline crack the same as the 1st bay res.
the bungs are also a major engineering fail they are literary holding on a single thread, with a very brittle plastic this reservoir is doomed to fail.

The bung with the plastic thread that came out while removing the bottom drain bung.

The EK bung on the left with the 1 thread engaged beside a standard bung at lest there is a minimum 2 1/2 threads engaged


I couldn't capture the hairline crack it wasn't till we replaced the O-ring and tightened the barb while the pump was running that the crack became evident.
first thought was barb overtightened I can assure you that it was 1/8 turn over finger tight.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> That's funny you mention that. I think that's one of the main reasons I got a sound card. Currently running a matx board but still felt that I needed another card down low to 'even it out'.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I use the thing, it's just isn't really needed.










fill ya slots up


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would assume that a quality plating wouldn't allow the copper to be broken down underneath the plating if what you say is true. Although I believe you might converse with BoxGods about Galvanic Corrosion charts. He believes that silver should be just fine in the loop. Although I cannot speak to his thoughts on pure .999 but on his use of silver plated fittings and bullet plugs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


correct,12 microns is considered safe corrosion resistant plating,anything lower is a cosmetic strike.

Geno may well say silver is fine but 2 things, He doesnt make copper products and Science.


----------



## radrok

Hey guys I just wanted to share how awesome Aquacomputer AMS system is, these are going into a desk mod with fans installed below so the copper core is always shown









They may not be the best performers at high rpm but I will use them at low rpms due to the massive surface area to get the most silent system I can









Also kudos to Aquacomputer as they are always ready to answer your questions


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Holy crap that's a lot of radiating surface you've got there... yeah I don't think cooling efficiency is going to cause any problems - regardless of what CPU and how many GPUs you're planning on running!









With any normal system you could almost run that much radiator passively and it would do a decent job.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Do you have emperical evidence of this? If you're basing your opinion on the galvanic corrosion chart you might reflect that chart is based on Saltwater Aquariums.
> 
> Watercooling lacks the important ingredient of Sodium Chloride which is common sea or table salt. But also there are other key components such as lead and aluminum, silver by itself with copper and brass are not enough to cause galvanic corrosion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


do you have any emperical evidence it does not? Id love some more Sunday reading!

I know the chart is based on saltwater but I cannot find a single thing that states galvanic corrosion only occurs in saltwater. I have found several times that corrosion in freshwater is subject to the same "rules" as saltwater but it will obviously be slower/less pronounced. Only thing I've really found is that an electrolyte has to be touching both surfaces. While most coolant may be "non-conductive" we all know that the fluid will pick up ions and become conductive over time.

Taking the risk of using silver and nickel together in a loop (especially with only distilled water which has no anti corrosive properties) is plain foolish IMO. It's also been demonstrated multiple times that most installations of silver in a loop aren't sufficient to fully protect from biological occurrences, so i really don't get why we're even having this discussion. It's an outdated method that's been proven ineffective and even problematic as far as I'm concerned.

One manufacturer who makes lots of silver plated products won't change my mind. Some solid evidence may, but i haven't found any yet (ill keep digging though!). I may totally be wrong, im no professional in the field of chemistry (or anything really haha) but until it's been PROVEN to not be an issue, i don't see any reason to condone mixing nickel and silver in a loop. Always better to be on the cautious side

Written from my phone, sorry for any errors


----------



## Braddock

Hi, this is my try. I need a bit of cable management.























Gesendet von meinem VIE-L09 mit Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope, no emperical evidence that it doesn't. But a quality plating simply should not allow the breakdown of the surface beneath it.

If it flakes then it's not a quality plating and I would suggest warranty as well as dropping the coil. Good bet the replacement quality will be just as bad.

Now that said, it's a good idea to avoid it from the beginning. But if we do that with everything (pt nuke etc) then manufacturers will continue to push substandard product on us and knockoff artists will take advantage of that. Knockoffs are the things that should fail, not the real Mccoy.

~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope, no emperical evidence that it doesn't. But a quality plating simply should not allow the breakdown of the surface beneath it.
> 
> If it flakes then it's not a quality plating and I would suggest warranty as well as dropping the coil. Good bet the replacement quality will be just as bad.
> 
> Now that said, it's a good idea to avoid it from the beginning. But if we do that with everything (pt nuke etc) then manufacturers will continue to push substandard product on us and knockoff artists will take advantage of that. Knockoffs are the things that should fail, not the real Mccoy.
> 
> ~Ceadder


What additives are actually the least invasive towards copper and nickel then? I have seen horrible examples with the use of Copper sulphate which would be the original PT-Nuke. Simply asking since I'm looking to replace my blocks with the next upgrade with all copper blocks so something to add to de-mineralised water would be appreciated (I'm not going to import litres upon litres of pre mixed coolant)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope, no emperical evidence that it doesn't. But a quality plating simply should not allow the breakdown of the surface beneath it.
> 
> If it flakes then it's not a quality plating and I would suggest warranty as well as dropping the coil. Good bet the replacement quality will be just as bad.
> 
> Now that said, it's a good idea to avoid it from the beginning. But if we do that with everything (pt nuke etc) then manufacturers will continue to push substandard product on us and knockoff artists will take advantage of that. Knockoffs are the things that should fail, not the real Mccoy.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What additives are actually the least invasive towards copper and nickel then? I have seen horrible examples with the use of Copper sulphate which would be the original PT-Nuke. Simply asking since I'm looking to replace my blocks with the next upgrade with all copper blocks so something to add to de-mineralised water would be appreciated (I'm not going to import litres upon litres of pre mixed coolant)
Click to expand...

I have Monsoon fittings so I don't use additives. Just plain distilled water.

But good luck going with a full copper setup. EK is only dropping a Nickel Monoblock for the CVIHero. Shoot they aren't even gonna give me a choice between Acrylic and Acetal. So I will get it and strip it to bare copper or run it til it flakes and then strip it. Likely strip it prior to running it cause I don't want nickel flakes trashing my loop.









Don't get me wrong, I love EK. But I have to shake my head when confronted with business choices such as limiting a release to only one option. My 480 block is copper. My RAM block is copper. My CPU blocks are copper. Shoot everything I own is copper, other than the MB block I have on my sig rig. And that too was because EK chose only to release in Copper. I'm going Ryzen now so choice is limited for what I can run.









~Ceadder


----------



## radrok

I'm using mostly copper elements in my loop and I've been really successful with Aquacomputer DP ultra, I have run it for 2 years before flushing and blocks were all pristine like they were just purchased


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope, no emperical evidence that it doesn't. But a quality plating simply should not allow the breakdown of the surface beneath it.
> 
> If it flakes then it's not a quality plating and I would suggest warranty as well as dropping the coil. Good bet the replacement quality will be just as bad.
> 
> Now that said, it's a good idea to avoid it from the beginning. But if we do that with everything (pt nuke etc) then manufacturers will continue to push substandard product on us and knockoff artists will take advantage of that. Knockoffs are the things that should fail, not the real Mccoy.
> 
> ~Ceadder


I get that, I've seen people have flaking issues while using proper coolants and no silver, that is why I avoid nickel blocks entirely. I know it's not always the silver to blame but if someone is having issues then its definitely a good place to start. There are so many parts in a loop, radiators usually have trace amount of soldering/brazing materials so I always want anti corrosives in my loop.

I don't see manufacturers changing anything though, only thing I see is more and more nickel plating and testing of RMA's for presence of silver in flaking blocks. Some brands are really bad about pointing blame to everyone but themselves when it comes to part failure... I'm sure some of you know what I'm talking about

I would think manufacturers would be wanting to avoid nickel plating, instead of abandoning the copper option almost entirely (looking at you EK..) That's alright, I like Watercool's 1080Ti block more anyways


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have Monsoon fittings so I don't use additives. Just plain distilled water.
> 
> But good luck going with a full copper setup. EK is only dropping a Nickel Monoblock for the CVIHero. Shoot they aren't even gonna give me a choice between Acrylic and Acetal. So I will get it and strip it to bare copper or run it til it flakes and then strip it. Likely strip it prior to running it cause I don't want nickel flakes trashing my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love EK. But I have to shake my head when confronted with business choices such as limiting a release to only one option. My 480 block is copper. My RAM block is copper. My CPU blocks are copper. Shoot everything I own is copper, other than the MB block I have on my sig rig. And that too was because EK chose only to release in Copper. I'm going Ryzen now so choice is limited for what I can run.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Which is why I'm moving away from EK somewhat. love what they have with their blocks being fairly easy to orient as you want, but there has been a shift towards a larger focus on nickel plated blocks and coloured acrylic. Rather than offer the classic blocks of yesteryear with copper and acetal. I can still get what I want with EK, but that is only because I don't use any specialized blocks. I only run a simple CPU block and a GPU block (currently universal, but that will change with my next purchase). I have been eyeing the Aquacomputer Kryos blocks as those are just nothing but sexy copper all over, though their forum reps might make me consider Watercool instead (still good looking blocks, they just have more steel on them than I like).

If everything goes to plan though, then I'll also swap out my Primochill Advanced LRT for nothing but pure copper pipes in all the visible areas of my case. Though that is going to completely redefine the theme of my build, I'm actually looking forward to redoing it in an Art-Deco style with either forced corrosion on the copper or just polished. At the very least I'm moving away from my chrome and nickel plated theme.


----------



## zu903

Trying to figure out my best option for combining my d5 pump with a reservoir. narrowed it down to my favorite two just wanted see if any one has any experience with them especially the second one.

PrimoChill CTR
https://www.primochill.com/collections/pump-enabled/products/primochill-ctr-hard-mount-phase-ii-high-flow-d5-enabled-reservoir-system-240mm

Singularity Computers Protium with the d5 pump top they have
https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/watercooling/protium-medium-200mm-black-acetyl/


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I get that, I've seen people have flaking issues while using proper coolants and no silver, that is why I avoid nickel blocks entirely. I know it's not always the silver to blame but if someone is having issues then its definitely a good place to start. There are so many parts in a loop, radiators usually have trace amount of soldering/brazing materials so I always want anti corrosives in my loop.
> 
> I don't see manufacturers changing anything though, only thing I see is more and more nickel plating and testing of RMA's for presence of silver in flaking blocks. Some brands are really bad about pointing blame to everyone but themselves when it comes to part failure... I'm sure some of you know what I'm talking about
> 
> I would think manufacturers would be wanting to avoid nickel plating, instead of abandoning the copper option almost entirely (looking at you EK..) That's alright, I like Watercool's 1080Ti block more anyways


Are you suggesting to avoid Nickel-plated blocks? I'm not decided as to what CPU and GPU block will I need to buy for my next build so might as well ask here.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are you suggesting to avoid Nickel-plated blocks? I'm not decided as to what CPU and GPU block will I need to buy for my next build so might as well ask here.


I wouldn't say I'm suggesting to avoid it entirely, but I personally prefer copper. Less possible issues and I actually just think it looks better too. I'm sure very few people have issues with nickel plating, I just don't want to be one of them.

If I wanted the aesthetic it provided then I'd use it


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are you suggesting to avoid Nickel-plated blocks? I'm not decided as to what CPU and GPU block will I need to buy for my next build so might as well ask here.


Is really rare that the nickel plated block fails, i seen only a couple of times on some EKWB blocks but seems they manage to fix that problem. But i still recommend just for simplicity go with cooper based waterblocks

Is easy to remove nickel plating from metal in case of failure, just need a battery and sulfuric acid 50% and destiled water 50%, in less than minute you have the piece completely clean. I never tried with nickel plated cooper pieces just with guns parts


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> Trying to figure out my best option for combining my d5 pump with a reservoir. narrowed it down to my favorite two just wanted see if any one has any experience with them especially the second one.
> 
> PrimoChill CTR
> https://www.primochill.com/collections/pump-enabled/products/primochill-ctr-hard-mount-phase-ii-high-flow-d5-enabled-reservoir-system-240mm
> 
> Singularity Computers Protium with the d5 pump top they have
> https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/watercooling/protium-medium-200mm-black-acetyl/


The singularity res looks really good and you can bet anything from them is high quality. Check his youtube channel for some detailed reviews and builds if you haven't already.
I haven't used the ctr before, but I've heard some people have issues getting the caps to seal right.


----------



## inedenimadam

Opinions on layout please!

I am a woodworker, with a side of overclocker. I had a job with reclaimed hardwood, and i took home the scraps. I have had enough large cases to know that I always wanted to seperate the cooling into a floor stand. So I built this, but I am unsure of how i want to lay out the parts. This is only going to be a 240 and 480. Which is plenty for HEDT+2GPUs imo. This is what I came up with for the layout. I will be plunge routing in all of the components. Hardline eventually. 

Edit: decided on a layout myself. Cut in the first rad. Burned out the motor in my router in the process, finoshed up with a trim router. Guess i get to buy a new one







Finally can justify the festool router!


----------



## aaronstransam

Just started this build for my wife, aka fb killer, aka get my wife off my gaming rig so i can use it lol. Had some old parts laying around so this will be a sandy xeon build with an old zotac h67 and 2x2 corsair dominator. Havent decided on gpu yet but as its a xeon ill be throwing in a 6770 i had in the closet for now. Just need the rad, hard lines and atx pins to get here. Was supposed to get here yesterday "thanks usps". Maybe monday now. So far just have lighting wired/sleeved and the block, ram and heat sinks painted. Going uv with green under mobo. Seems fitting for a sandy build. Cant wait to hardline with this little case.


----------



## M-Sauce

Hello everyone. My rig is not yet finished, but it is now operational. Mostly done except some of the cabling. I did all the work on this myself except for the glass bending












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Hello everyone. My rig is not yet finished, but it is now operational. Mostly done except some of the cabling. I did all the work on this myself except for the glass bending


----------



## jon666

Crap. Trying to figure out cables, and soft tubing at the same time. I might as well be pulling my teeth out with christmas lights. I don't want this thing to look ugly, so I am setting everything aside for today. Otherwise I will end up putting it all together however the pieces fit. What is the best method for figuring that stuff out? Cables first or tubing first?

Edit: Might have to see how that Singalarity guy does it.Except for the 'I didn't like it so I pulled some stuff out and re-did it' I am trying to avoid that. Got some of that dead water, and impulsively bought some UV purple dye cause why not purple surrounded by RGB all the things.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Hello everyone. My rig is not yet finished, but it is now operational. Mostly done except some of the cabling. I did all the work on this myself except for the glass bending
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that pastel purple or a custom mix?


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Is that pastel purple or a custom mix?


It's mayhems pastel white, with 3 drops each of red and blue non-staining die.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> It's mayhems pastel white, with 3 drops each of red and blue non-staining die.


Awesome it looks great. I'm wanting to go purple with mine when I get it and wasn't sure if I wanted to go white with custom tint or just premixed purple.


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Awesome it looks great. I'm wanting to go purple with mine when I get it and wasn't sure if I wanted to go white with custom tint or just premixed purple.


Thanks. I loved the color but I dumped it yesterday. Pastel reflects the UV lighting in the reservoir post too much. I'm trying UV blue now, it looks better with lighting since it is clear. Might purplelize it if I stick with it.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Crap. Trying to figure out cables, and soft tubing at the same time. I might as well be pulling my teeth out with christmas lights. I don't want this thing to look ugly, so I am setting everything aside for today. Otherwise I will end up putting it all together however the pieces fit. What is the best method for figuring that stuff out? Cables first or tubing first?
> 
> Edit: Might have to see how that Singalarity guy does it.Except for the 'I didn't like it so I pulled some stuff out and re-did it' I am trying to avoid that. Got some of that dead water, and impulsively bought some UV purple dye cause why not purple surrounded by RGB all the things.


cables always last. u should be testing your run with just your mobo 24 pin hooked up to psu with a dummy plug at the end to run ur Perip cable so your pump works. that way nothing on your board is powered and u dont have to worry about any possible leaks causing issues. then just take ur time with ur cable management i usually start with my main cables get them ran neat. then go from there. do a few take a break come back to it later.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I build this one last summer a roundish. Cheapest custom water cooled build so far i have made. Hunting for the deal.

EK Supreme HF
EK Supremacy VGA
D5 Vario with XSPC Reservoir
2x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 240mm
All Fittings are occool
KillCoil & Distilled water only (still clean as a rock)
4x Corsair OEM fans @ 1200rpms




Just did a loop of heaven for 45min till the water temps normalized (Ambient Temp 75F)
4790K @ 5GHz
1080 @ 2114/550


cant complain XD


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Crap. Trying to figure out cables, and soft tubing at the same time. I might as well be pulling my teeth out with christmas lights. I don't want this thing to look ugly, so I am setting everything aside for today. Otherwise I will end up putting it all together however the pieces fit. What is the best method for figuring that stuff out? Cables first or tubing first?
> 
> Edit: Might have to see how that Singalarity guy does it.Except for the 'I didn't like it so I pulled some stuff out and re-did it' I am trying to avoid that. Got some of that dead water, and impulsively bought some UV purple dye cause why not purple surrounded by RGB all the things.


Tubing first.

Leak/Air test (







) Then after a successful leak test ( 12-24 hrs) you can start hooking cables up to install OS.

After that is all taken care of, sort cables to look good.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Personally do the cables first that way you know where to and where not to run you re tubing. Don't want tubing blocking the cables. Once you figure out where the cables will be disconnect them run tubing and jump out the 24 pin to fill the loop


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Personally do the cables first that way you know where to and where not to run you re tubing. Don't want tubing blocking the cables. Once you figure out where the cables will be disconnect them run tubing and jump out the 24 pin to fill the loop


I do it this way as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Double ditto!









~Ceadder


----------



## jon666

I think cables first might be the plan. There are a lot more cables in the cosmos 2 then I was expecting. Picked up a fully modular evga psu to make things easier.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

In my last loop, I sort of did both. I had a couple of tubes that were going to pass right in front of the GPU 6/8 pin connector, so get a rough idea on the tube, hook the cables up, run the tube to clear. One ended up not being an issue, I had to jog over to hit the front rad port.


----------



## MURDoctrine

I just noticed your avatar emsj86. That looks sick how the coolant and midplate match. Looks like the coolant is just pooling there.

As others have stated though I normally do cables first as far as planning out a route. I've been on soft tubing though which has a LOT more leeway than hardline.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Im a cables last kinda guy myself...not that it really matters


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im a cables last kinda guy myself...not that it really matters


I'm cables last as well, but I think experience has something to do with it.

As I run tube, my mind's eye sees all the cable runs and I take them into consideration where necessary with the tube routing.

In builds where I have done extensive case mods, I've already done a lot of visualization and planning for both tubing and cables when I did the mods, so I know in advance exactly how it's going to play out.


----------



## StealthyTT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It is a combo. Place the pump I. The housing of the reservoir tightened it Down and the gasket from the DDC pump is what suppose to seal it. Measured and checked the gasket. Seems fine. Here is a picture to the right of the wires it fried.


That happened to one of my pumps also, they swapped it out for me. not sure how old yours are but mine were about a month old, with only like 3 days of use from leak testing and bleeding. Worth a shot if they're almost new


----------



## looniam

don't know why all the talk about when to do cables.

i always start a build with doing the first thing and finish by doing the last.


----------



## Ceadderman

Cause maybe the main concept of _build_ was complete and builder decided to enter watercooling and dressup phases at the same time.










~Ceadder


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I think cables first might be the plan. There are a lot more cables in the cosmos 2 then I was expecting. Picked up a fully modular evga psu to make things easier.


In some builds, cables looms are accentuated as they form a definitive part of the overall visuals and in others, users may want to conceal them.

However as already mentioned, both of these cases require some planning/thinking in advance as your build progresses for a good result.

One trick in hiding cables is simply to use 'ye olde' stage theatre trick where things are simply painted matt black to conceal them from the eye.


----------



## chibi

Hi guys, is it possible to seal a leaky rotary fitting at the seam? I have 8x Bitspower Rotary L-Block fittings in my build and two of them have such a small minuscule leak that it took 3 days for the first droplet to appear. This is at the rotary seam just to clarify, and not at the threads. I did a pressure test with a Dr. Drop Gauge from Aquacomputer, but I assumed the .2 psi drop was normal after 24 hours









Can I use clear nail polish around the seam to seal the leak? The top rad fitting isn't too bad to replace, it's the reservoir fitting that will require a lot of disassembly.


----------



## Barefooter

I would replace the leaking fittings. Not worth the risk.


----------



## chibi

Damn it! I've submitted the RMA request... was so close to finishing the build too


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Damn it! I've submitted the RMA request... was so close to finishing the build too


I know that feeling. Just sent my board off for RMA. All I needed was to install windows.









TCO


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I know that feeling. Just sent my board off for RMA. All I needed was to install windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


That's some tough love man. Saw the post issue in your wip too, my condolences.

I'm not sure I want to go with rotary fittings anymore. They seem rather delicate and leak prone after this experience... 2 in 8 doesn't seem like good odds


----------



## kevindd992002

I would love to hear more about the reliability of rotary fittings too.


----------



## 0ldChicken

I plan to move away from rotaries entirely with my next build after having a couple fail on me last time (nearly taking my gtx980 with them)


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I had to use 2 rotaries in the Death Bomb, so I bought 4. And neither of the 2 I chose have leaked so far









And luckily they are in the very bottom of the case with nothing under them.


----------



## stealth80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> That's some tough love man. Saw the post issue in your wip too, my condolences.
> 
> I'm not sure I want to go with rotary fittings anymore. They seem rather delicate and leak prone after this experience... 2 in 8 doesn't seem like good odds


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I would love to hear more about the reliability of rotary fittings too.


I have been using XSPC rotaries with Primochill fittings for over 2 years now, 1 out of around 16 had a leak
, ive also used them in 3 different builds now (well the most recent is a refresh). It is of course down to luck with QC.









As you can see, I've had plenty of use out of them


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

XSPC rotaries, Primochill fittings here, too. These were the first rotary fittings I've used, I wasn't sure what to expect - they seemed sort of loose to me, but the build had zero leaks in any joint. I've never had a leak with a Revolver.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I plan to move away from rotaries entirely with my next build after having a couple fail on me last time (nearly taking my gtx980 with them)


If you use straight angled fittings, would you still be able to orient them in the direction you want them to be during tightening?


----------



## MURDoctrine

So working on my loop with my new CPU block and going hard tubing finally. I have a question though. I'm going through my midplate coming off of my GPU block and I wanted some input on which route you all think looks the best.

Sorry for the quick and sloppy MS Paint skills.









Option 1



Option 2


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hi guys, is it possible to seal a leaky rotary fitting at the seam? I have 8x Bitspower Rotary L-Block fittings in my build and two of them have such a small minuscule leak that it took 3 days for the first droplet to appear. This is at the rotary seam just to clarify, and not at the threads. I did a pressure test with a Dr. Drop Gauge from Aquacomputer, but I assumed the .2 psi drop was normal after 24 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I use clear nail polish around the seam to seal the leak? The top rad fitting isn't too bad to replace, it's the reservoir fitting that will require a lot of disassembly.


That sucks. I'm really surprised, Bitspower fittings are top notch, so to get twoin one go is pretty bad. Especially if they are new fittings. I've used them for a while now and have never seen one leak.

Just curious, do you soak them before use? I personally don't even spin them unless they've been soaked for a couple minutes.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So my 10mm bitspower silicon cord is too large for my tubing. Any advice?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If you use straight angled fittings, would you still be able to orient them in the direction you want them to be during tightening?


not necessarily. I've heard you can use different sized o rings to help but I've never tried that. Almost all of my planned 90s will be connected to passthroughs which i can spin any way id like. I'm also planning on getting more than i need so i have options


----------



## MURDoctrine

I give up. I can't bend tubing at all. Is there a way to preserve a bend you did that is right next to one you are making next to it? Whenever I try to do 2 bends near one another I either destroy my other bend or mess up the one I'm adding by not heating it enough. I might just go fittings at this rate.


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> I give up. I can't bend tubing at all. Is there a way to preserve a bend you did that is right next to one you are making next to it? Whenever I try to do 2 bends near one another I either destroy my other bend or mess up the one I'm adding by not heating it enough. I might just go fittings at this rate.


I'm no expert but I had the same trouble. What I did was a tiny bit by bit. bent it ever so slightly and let it cool down, checked the other bend and just kept doing that until the bend was finished and both bends were okay. Took a lot of practice until I worked it out.


----------



## MURDoctrine

worked it out.[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> I'm no expert but I had the same trouble. What I did was a tiny bit by bit. bent it ever so slightly and let it cool down, checked the other bend and just kept doing that until the bend was finished and both bends were okay. Took a lot of practice until I worked it out.


Thanks for the advice. I'll have to try it later. It's just annoying but I expected as much. 2 1/2 meters of tubing down and I only have 1 tube to show for it. The only reason it worked was because it only needed one 90 degree bend.


----------



## sdmf74

Has anyone used the carbon fiber cable combs or the Aluminum billet cable combs from MNPCTECH on the cablemod *MODMESH* cables?

The mnpctech website says they are not compatible with any cablemod cables but I dont know how that could be the case cause the modmesh cables are thicker than the modflex cables. Cablemod says the modmesh are 3.1mm in diameter
and mnpctech says the cable combs will work with 3mm/4mm od cables so what am I missing here?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> not necessarily. I've heard you can use different sized o rings to help but I've never tried that. Almost all of my planned 90s will be connected to passthroughs which i can spin any way id like. I'm also planning on getting more than i need so i have options


Ok. So straight angled fittings almost always end up in one direction depending on the G1/4 thread "connection" of both the fitting and component, correct?

I can't imagine what you're trying to describe when you said that your 90deg fittings will be connected to passthroughs which you can spin any way you'd like. Passthroughs are just that, f-to-f panel-mounted fittings, right?


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. So straight angled fittings almost always end up in one direction depending on the G1/4 thread "connection" of both the fitting and component, correct?
> 
> I can't imagine what you're trying to describe when you said that your 90deg fittings will be connected to passthroughs which you can spin any way you'd like. Passthroughs are just that, f-to-f panel-mounted fittings, right?


I think what he is trying to say is when his 90's are connected to the pass throughs he then loosens the pass throughs lock nut and the pass through will spin freely to let him put the 90 in the proper place then tighten the locknut and you have your 90 where you want it without a rotary.

I did this on my parvum r1.0 build I'm working on right now, since I didn't have enough room underneath to fit rotary fittings I used regular angled 90's which worked perfect and gave me just the clearance I needed.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I think what he is trying to say is when his 90's are connected to the pass throughs he then loosens the pass throughs lock nut and the pass through will spin freely to let him put the 90 in the proper place then tighten the locknut and you have your 90 where you want it without a rotary.
> 
> I did this on my parvum r1.0 build I'm working on right now, since I didn't have enough room underneath to fit rotary fittings I used regular angled 90's which worked perfect and gave me just the clearance I needed.


Ok, that kinda makes sense now. Thanks!

So do you guys still recommend I buy a couple of rotary angled fittings for places where I need them? I mean, are there even other alternatives? It looks like I don't even have a choice as straight angled fittings seem to be a hit and miss when you consider the direction they will end up to after screwing them in.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> That sucks. I'm really surprised, Bitspower fittings are top notch, so to get twoin one go is pretty bad. Especially if they are new fittings. I've used them for a while now and have never seen one leak.
> 
> Just curious, do you soak them before use? I personally don't even spin them unless they've been soaked for a couple minutes.


I've only ever used Bitspower Fittings before so these two leaks is a big surprise to me - they were brand new too. Unfortunately, I did not soak the fittings in water as I was not aware. But I know going forward, I'll do that. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> I give up. I can't bend tubing at all. Is there a way to preserve a bend you did that is right next to one you are making next to it? Whenever I try to do 2 bends near one another I either destroy my other bend or mess up the one I'm adding by not heating it enough. I might just go fittings at this rate.


try wrapping the bend you need to preserve in a wet rag. Should keep it cool enough


----------



## ir88ed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> worked it out.
> Thanks for the advice. I'll have to try it later. It's just annoying but I expected as much. 2 1/2 meters of tubing down and I only have 1 tube to show for it. The only reason it worked was because it only needed one 90 degree bend.


I have struggled with bending PETG tubing as well. How to get an accurate measurement, how to get a good bend, and how to make it look pretty reasonable were all things I found challenging. I just bent some tubing last night that came out really well and the following trick helped out greatly. I used 14 gauge solid Cu residential electrical wiring (NM-B) to model my tube runs. You can see what I am talking about in the pic below. The top three runs are still the wire. This allows you to bend the cabling into just the right configuration, and then you take the wire and use it as a model for your actual tube bending. I am still learning and having fun, but this greatly improved the accuracy, layout, and appearance of my tubing. BTW, I highly recommend the monsoon bending kit or something similar if you aren't using one.



Final result:


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ir88ed*
> 
> I used 14 gauge solid Cu residential electrical wiring (NM-B) to model my tube runs.


Is that romex? That is a great idea.


----------



## ir88ed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Is that romex? That is a great idea.


Yup. I saw some other user somewhere on the net doing this using individual 14gauge wires and loved the idea. I only had the romex stuff at home, but it worked even better as it is closer to the size of the tubing.


----------



## Purepechaflyer




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ir88ed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> worked it out.
> Thanks for the advice. I'll have to try it later. It's just annoying but I expected as much. 2 1/2 meters of tubing down and I only have 1 tube to show for it. The only reason it worked was because it only needed one 90 degree bend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have struggled with bending PETG tubing as well. How to get an accurate measurement, how to get a good bend, and how to make it look pretty reasonable were all things I found challenging. I just bent some tubing last night that came out really well and the following trick helped out greatly. I used 14 gauge solid Cu residential electrical wiring (NM-B) to model my tube runs. You can see what I am talking about in the pic below. The top three runs are still the wire. This allows you to bend the cabling into just the right configuration, and then you take the wire and use it as a model for your actual tube bending. I am still learning and having fun, but this greatly improved the accuracy, layout, and appearance of my tubing. BTW, I highly recommend the monsoon bending kit or something similar if you aren't using one.
> 
> 
> 
> Final result:
Click to expand...

Looks nice but you will have better flow with less 45° bends in your loop. You've got quite a few of them. I suggest making your runs as direct as possible and limit the number of 45s.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Has anyone used the carbon fiber cable combs or the Aluminum billet cable combs from MNPCTECH on the cablemod *MODMESH* cables?
> 
> The mnpctech website says they are not compatible with any cablemod cables but I dont know how that could be the case cause the modmesh cables are thicker than the modflex cables. Cablemod says the modmesh are 3.1mm in diameter
> and mnpctech says the cable combs will work with 3mm/4mm od cables so what am I missing here?


CableMod Modmesh sleeving is still very thin (The thickness from Modflex to Modmesh has only increased maybe by .3 or .4). CableMod uses the thinnest 18AWG wire possible, which prevents allot of Cable Combs from being used. Not 100% sure the thickness reported by CableMod is accurate.

I just did a quick test with Carbon Fiber combs I have from MNPTech.

MNPTech combs slides all over the place when placed on Modmesh cables. My created MDPC-X cables are allot thicker then CableMod ModMesh (I have a few Modmesh PSU cabes I used just to see if they would fit correctly on the sleeving).

Plus CableMod have stated in another thread saying their cables don't work with any 3rd cable combs. CableMod is working on thicker sleeving for their cables, It should be announced Soon-ish.

I can take some Photos if you need to see how they look.


----------



## docsys

Hey folks!
I'm actually thinking of a riser-card or -cable for the gpu in my darkbase pro 900 build but have never even seen such a thing from near. I feel like it's such a shame to hide the beauty of a gpu's waterblock underneath and the only thing to see is the backplate. Has anyone done that in that particular case and pictures of it to share? Any suggestions or opinions about that plan? Any advise or opinion much appreciated!


----------



## ir88ed

I assume you mean 90 degree bends.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks nice but you will have better flow with less 45° bends in your loop. You've got quite a few of them. I suggest making your runs as direct as possible and limit the number of 45s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I assume you mean 90 degree bends.








I wonder how much it really matters. My pump seems to happily and quietly move the water through my system despite the bends, and out to the external rad. Temps are always pretty fantastic.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hur derp, yes indeed meant 90°.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ir88ed*
> 
> I assume you mean 90 degree bends.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks nice but you will have better flow with less 45° bends in your loop. You've got quite a few of them. I suggest making your runs as direct as possible and limit the number of 45s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume you mean 90 degree bends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder how much it really matters. My pump seems to happily and quietly move the water through my system despite the bends, and out to the external rad. Temps are always pretty fantastic.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure the bends won't reduce flow, that's just fittings.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Pretty sure the bends won't reduce flow, that's just fittings.


Yes I think the flow will be fine. Here's an interesting read for those that have not seen it before.
Fittings and Elbow Impacts


----------



## ir88ed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Pretty sure the bends won't reduce flow, that's just fittings.


No, Ceadderman is right. You will absolutely lose pressure as the fluid goes around a bend. It is how much pressure I am curious about. It looks like the math to figure out pressure loss includes variables like pipe diameter, bend radius, fluid density, and "slippery-ness" of the pipe. Based on my system performance, I would guess that the pressure drop is fairly minor.

Graphs and stuff here:
http://www.thermopedia.com/content/577/

Also, stealing 0ldchicken's avatar, it looks like the turbulence is pretty minor as the fluid slides around the 90 deg bend.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> CableMod Modmesh sleeving is still very thin (The thickness from Modflex to Modmesh has only increased maybe by .3 or .4). CableMod uses the thinnest 18AWG wire possible, which prevents allot of Cable Combs from being used. Not 100% sure the thickness reported by CableMod is accurate.
> 
> I just did a quick test with Carbon Fiber combs I have from MNPTech.
> 
> MNPTech combs slides all over the place when placed on Modmesh cables. My created MDPC-X cables are allot thicker then CableMod ModMesh (I have a few Modmesh PSU cabes I used just to see if they would fit correctly on the sleeving).
> 
> Plus CableMod have stated in another thread saying their cables don't work with any 3rd cable combs. CableMod is working on thicker sleeving for their cables, It should be announced Soon-ish.
> 
> I can take some Photos if you need to see how they look.


Wait what the thinnest 18awg wire possible are you sure? So you just tested the MNPCTECH carbon fiber cable combs on cablemod's MODMESH cables & they dont fit? Ive been looking into them for over a week and just spent over $100 on a modmesh kit & just got confirmation today from mnpctech that the carbon fiber cable combs
do fit the modmesh cables. Please pictures would be great? Now im thinkin I should have waitied but I wasnt aware of any cables that werent super expensive for my EVGA 1300g2.

Also Ive been in contact with Cablemods and like I said their rep said the modmesh are 3.1mm in diameter. He knows I wanted thicker cables cause I told him how much I hate my aftermarket evga cable set, yet he mentioned nothing about upcoming cablemod kits that are thicker in diameter. Do you have a link on that info as well please?
Thanks @Revan


----------



## MURDoctrine

Well I got my bends done finally. Still not happy with one but it isn't leaking and I have my blitz part 2 running through the loop. I guess I just needed to sleep and reset as I had been going for hours on it yesterday. Thanks for all the advice guys. Mad respect to all the guys/gals with clean hard tubing runs.


----------



## GoodwinAJ

90 degrees?


----------



## Deathscythes

Damn i wish i had the guts to try PETG tubing but damn bending seems pretty hard :s

That said I feel like sharing my build with you guys =)
I have totally rethought the loop and changed CPU Block + MB Block
Now i just wait for VEGA... And also for EK to make a waterblock for their limited edition <3


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Opinions on layout please!
> 
> Edit: decided on a layout myself. Cut in the first rad. Burned out the motor in my router in the process, finoshed up with a trim router. Guess i get to buy a new one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally can justify the festool router!


Which one are you looking at buying? I've used both the 1010 EQ and 1400 EQ and they are brilliant pieces of machinery. IIRC there is a larger model but it costs more than a Titan XP.

If it were my money, i'd opt for one of the high end Bosch like their MRP23EVS. With the money you save you can get a bunch of accessories. The festool is a great router, but is it worth 2-3x the price?


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I would love to hear more about the reliability of rotary fittings too.


I have quite a few XSPC rotary fittings in my loop and i will say they can have issues when lateral force is put on them. You have to ensure your tubing is cut to the proper length. A little long or short and a rotary can leak. I had a close call a couple months ago where i had a small leak which dripped onto my X-Fi Titanium HD. Luckily i caught it and nothing was damaged. Had that card not been there the drop would have hit my GPU.

Im eventually going to convert the loop to hard tubing and ditch all these potential points of failure.


----------



## fakeblood

Still waiting on my riser cable, but all done. Ran out of clear tubing so had to use black from res to rad.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04652_zpsl6edudxp.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04631_zpsf76ywt2i.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04665_zpstixeelp6.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04657_zps5xaavdl4.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04606_zpswle2pvxd.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04605_zpsou8el5if.png.html


----------



## ir88ed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Still waiting on my riser cable, but all done. Ran out of clear tubing so had to use black from res to rad.


Beautiful! Interesting choice on using beer as the cooling fluid.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ir88ed*
> 
> Beautiful! Interesting choice on using beer as the cooling fluid.


HA! I wouldnt waste beer like that! Its a lot more orange IRL


----------



## ir88ed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> HA! I wouldnt waste beer like that! Its a lot more orange IRL


Seriously, though, nice work. Super clean looking and beautiful bends.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Still waiting on my riser cable, but all done. Ran out of clear tubing so had to use black from res to rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04652_zpsl6edudxp.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04631_zpsf76ywt2i.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04665_zpstixeelp6.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04657_zps5xaavdl4.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04606_zpswle2pvxd.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04605_zpsou8el5if.png.html


I love the color choice, definitely unusual.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> HA! I wouldnt waste beer like that! Its a lot more orange IRL


No we know where all the Hi-C that McDonald's used to serve has gone.


----------



## iamjanco

You can actually get thinner cable if you want to spend more (perhaps a lot more). I bought a couple of hundred feet of 16AWG FEP Teflon Silver Plated Copper Wire from MODDIY, which measures out to just over 2mm in diameter in a caliper. PPCS sells the same thing, which they get from MODDIY. After discounts it works out to 71 or 72 cents a foot, and what I spent on it I saved on having my own combs made, which will probably be here by the end of next week. Just have to make up my mind weather I want to go waterjet aluminum, or laserjet acrylic or pom:



I imagine the 18AWG version of the same wire would be even thinner.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> I have quite a few XSPC rotary fittings in my loop and i will say they can have issues when lateral force is put on them. You have to ensure your tubing is cut to the proper length. A little long or short and a rotary can leak. I had a close call a couple months ago where i had a small leak which dripped onto my X-Fi Titanium HD. Luckily i caught it and nothing was damaged. Had that card not been there the drop would have hit my GPU.
> 
> Im eventually going to convert the loop to hard tubing and ditch all these potential points of failure.


I see. Is it at all possible to build a loop with soft tubing using straight fittings and yield a good tube routing?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. Is it at all possible to build a loop with soft tubing using straight fittings and yield a good tube routing?


I think it would honestly depend on the case and your loops layout but until I just switched to PETG last night I was using soft tubing like that. I only had 3 90degree rotaries but honestly could have not used them if need be.

Here are a few shots of mine from the past few years.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> I think it would honestly depend on the case and your loops layout but until I just switched to PETG last night I was using soft tubing like that. I only had 3 90degree rotaries but honestly could have not used them if need be.
> 
> Here are a few shots of mine from the past few years.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I see. Here are the components for my next build:

*Radiator1*: Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS® XFLOW Ultra Stealth Cross-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon
*Radiator2*: Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS® Ultra Stealth U-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon
*Pump*: EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump) w/ carbon sleeving and black heatshrink
*Reservoir*: Watercool Heatkiller Tube 150
*CPU*: Waiting for the 7740K
*CPU Block*: Not decided yet but probably either a Heatkiller IV Pro or a Cuplex Kryos Next
*GPU*: Waiting for the EVGA FTW3 1080Ti
*GPU Block*: Not decided yet
*Fans*: Be Quiet! SW3's (3x120mm and 2x140mm)
*Tubing*: Mayhems Ultra Clear soft tubing
*Coolant*: Mayhems Pastel
*Case*: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX

Here are some of the tube routing options that I can think of:

*1.) With front 280mm GTS Xflow and 360mm GTS Uflow*

*1.a*



*1.b*



*2.) With front 280mm GTS Uflow and 360mm GTS Uflow*

*2.a*



*2.b*



So which one should I go with? Questions:

1.) The 360mm rad goes up top. Which is a better orientation in my situation, ports on the left or ports on the right?

2.) My main question is do you have any suggestions on how to go about tube routing? I know it would be a hell lot easier if I switch the rad positions (280mm xflow rad up top and 360mm uflow rad in front) but sticking with the 360mm top orientation will yield a better looking setup.

*NOTES:*

* The only reason I'm sticking with a 280mm xflow is it is marginally better performing than its uflow counterpart and is way less restrictive.

* On the other hand, the 360mm uflow is marginally better performaing than its xflow counterpart, so there's that. Also for the reason that I'm comfortable in using one very restrictive rad (this 360mm rad) but I'm not sure if a D5's head pressure can handle using two (280mm uflow and 360mm uflow).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I see. Here are the components for my next build:
> 
> *Radiator1*: Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS® XFLOW Ultra Stealth Cross-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon
> *Radiator2*: Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS® Ultra Stealth U-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon
> *Pump*: EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump) w/ carbon sleeving and black heatshrink
> *Reservoir*: Watercool Heatkiller Tube 150
> *CPU*: Waiting for the 7740K
> *CPU Block*: Not decided yet but probably either a Heatkiller IV Pro or a Cuplex Kryos Next
> *GPU*: Waiting for the EVGA FTW3 1080Ti
> *GPU Block*: Not decided yet
> *Fans*: Be Quiet! SW3's (3x120mm and 2x140mm)
> *Tubing*: Mayhems Ultra Clear soft tubing
> *Coolant*: Mayhems Pastel
> *Case*: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX
> 
> Here are some of the tube routing options that I can think of:
> 
> *1.) With front 280mm GTS Xflow and 360mm GTS Uflow*
> 
> *1.a*
> 
> 
> 
> *1.b*
> 
> 
> 
> *2.) With front 280mm GTS Uflow and 360mm GTS Uflow*
> 
> *2.a*
> 
> 
> 
> *2.b*
> 
> 
> 
> So which one should I go with? Questions:
> 
> 1.) The 360mm rad goes up top. Which is a better orientation in my situation, ports on the left or ports on the right?
> 
> 2.) My main question is do you have any suggestions on how to go about tube routing? I know it would be a hell lot easier if I switch the rad positions (280mm xflow rad up top and 360mm uflow rad in front) but sticking with the 360mm top orientation will yield a better looking setup.
> 
> *NOTES:*
> 
> * The only reason I'm sticking with a 280mm xflow is it is marginally better performing than its uflow counterpart and is way less restrictive.
> 
> 
> 
> * On the other hand, the 360mm uflow is marginally better performaing than its xflow counterpart, so there's that. Also for the reason that I'm comfortable in using one very restrictive rad (this 360mm rad) but I'm not sure if a D5's head pressure can handle using two (280mm uflow and 360mm uflow).


A D5 can handle significantly more than a couple of rads....I have had 7 blocks and 3 480 rads on a single D5 with no performance problems.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A D5 can handle significantly more than a couple of rads....I have had 7 blocks and 3 480 rads on a single D5 with no performance problems.


Yeah, that's what I'm gathering so far. Do I still need to have those flow monitors in my loop?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A D5 can handle significantly more than a couple of rads....I have had 7 blocks and 3 480 rads on a single D5 with no performance problems.


What flow did you get with single D5 with such setup?

Running 3*GPU blocks and CPU block from EK and 3 radiators and looks like I'm struggling with flow

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A D5 can handle significantly more than a couple of rads....I have had 7 blocks and 3 480 rads on a single D5 with no performance problems.


This is my setup




























Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A D5 can handle significantly more than a couple of rads....I have had 7 blocks and 3 480 rads on a single D5 with no performance problems.
> 
> 
> 
> What flow did you get with single D5 with such setup?
> 
> Running 3*GPU blocks and CPU block from EK and 3 radiators and looks like I'm struggling with flow
> 
> Thanks, Jura
Click to expand...

From the pics, I'd ditch the little rad on the rear, it's contributing virtually nothing, other than to busy-up your tubing runs,

Then I'd go to parallel connecting the GPUs, your flow should pic up considerably, assuming you have no other hidden gotchas.

Darlene


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> From the pics, I'd ditch the little rad on the rear, it's contributing virtually nothing, other than to busy-up your tubing runs,
> 
> Then I'd go to parallel connecting the GPUs, your flow should pic up considerably, assuming you have no other hidden gotchas.
> 
> Darlene


Hi Darlene

I thought so adding extra 120mm radiator would improve temperatures which has improved temperatures on GPU by 2-5°C but looks like adding extra radiator too added restriction as well

Parallel not sure if its worth to do but will do that and compare that

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Yukss

new pictures...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> new pictures...


What color is this Pastel?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like Sunset Pastel


----------



## Purepechaflyer




----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What color is this Pastel?


Hi, is sunset yellow pastel..


----------



## bluedevil

Project BLUEDEVIL is complete.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1622198/sponsored-project-bluedevil

https://ibb.co/cZE7y5
https://ibb.co/jYD0J5
https://ibb.co/hayZd5


----------



## Ceadderman

Really digging the last few builds. Great job on the tubing runs fellas.

Though I agree with D's assessment of the 120 in juras build. Totally unnecessary for that build. Parallel is the better way to go as well although marginally so.









Oh and could we please [/Spoiler] tag pics when quoting multiple pics. Makes things at the Mobile side easier to deal with. Much appreciate it.









~Ceadder


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Really digging the last few builds. Great job on the tubing runs fellas.
> 
> Though I agree with D's assessment of the 120 in juras build. Totally unnecessary for that build. Parallel is the better way to go as well although marginally so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and could we please [/Spoiler] tag pics when quoting multiple pics. Makes things at the Mobile side easier to deal with. Much appreciate it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hi there

Probably I will repeat myself but temperatures are pretty good on GPU, hottest card is middle card which does go up to 36°C in rendering,top one GTX1080Ti never goes above 34°C and bottom one GTX1080 never goes above 34°C, these temps are during 3 hour rendering session,all GPU are pegged at 100% during the rendering and water delta is around 5-7°C

What is only bothering me is CPU temperature,that's it there, CPU temps are slightly higher than been previously, previously have run 3*GPU setup(Titan X SC Maxwell,2*GTX1080) and temps on GPU has been bit higher by 2-3°C per card and if GPU temperature has been on idle 27°C, CPU PKG temperature has been 37°C and now is totally different CPU temperature is 37°C and GPU temp is 23-24°C with same ambient temperature and water temperature

Hope this helps and makes sense as well why I don't want to go route of parallel on GPU

Thanks, Jura


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Really digging the last few builds. Great job on the tubing runs fellas.
> 
> Though I agree with D's assessment of the 120 in juras build. Totally unnecessary for that build. Parallel is the better way to go as well although marginally so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and could we please [/Spoiler] tag pics when quoting multiple pics. Makes things at the Mobile side easier to deal with. Much appreciate it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Probably I will repeat myself but temperatures are pretty good on GPU, hottest card is middle card which does go up to 36°C in rendering,top one GTX1080Ti never goes above 34°C and bottom one GTX1080 never goes above 34°C, these temps are during 3 hour rendering session,all GPU are pegged at 100% during the rendering and water delta is around 5-7°C
> 
> What is only bothering me is CPU temperature,that's it there, CPU temps are slightly higher than been previously, previously have run 3*GPU setup(Titan X SC Maxwell,2*GTX1080) and temps on GPU has been bit higher by 2-3°C per card and if GPU temperature has been on idle 27°C, CPU PKG temperature has been 37°C and now is totally different CPU temperature is 37°C and GPU temp is 23-24°C with same ambient temperature and water temperature
> 
> Hope this helps and makes sense as well why I don't want to go route of parallel on GPU
> 
> Thanks, Jura
Click to expand...

I suggested going parallel on the GPUs to reduce restriction and get the D5 nicely into the sweet spot of its PK curve.

With 3 cards in parallel, you'll have ~1/9 the restriction you have with 3 cards in series as far as the GPU group is concerned.

Darlene


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I suggested going parallel on the GPUs to reduce restriction and get the D5 nicely into the sweet spot of its PK curve.
> 
> With 3 cards in parallel, you'll have ~1/9 the restriction you have with 3 cards in series as far as the GPU group is concerned.
> 
> Darlene


Hi Darlene

I have EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition not D5 pump

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## hrockh

gotta say as well, the last few builds are impressive indeed.

suggestions for a thin 240mm radiator?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Wait what the thinnest 18awg wire possible are you sure? So you just tested the MNPCTECH carbon fiber cable combs on cablemod's MODMESH cables & they dont fit? Ive been looking into them for over a week and just spent over $100 on a modmesh kit & just got confirmation today from mnpctech that the carbon fiber cable combs
> do fit the modmesh cables. Please pictures would be great? Now im thinkin I should have waitied but I wasnt aware of any cables that werent super expensive for my EVGA 1300g2.
> 
> Also Ive been in contact with Cablemods and like I said their rep said the modmesh are 3.1mm in diameter. He knows I wanted thicker cables cause I told him how much I hate my aftermarket evga cable set, yet he mentioned nothing about upcoming cablemod kits that are thicker in diameter. Do you have a link on that info as well please?
> Thanks @Revan


- I have some 18 AWG wire left over from an older build the cable it's 2mm(Cablemod wire is about .2 thinner (I took it out of the connector & cut into the sleeving just to compare). The sleeving is 2mm, Similar to DarkSide 2mm sleeving.
- It's better to have your cables hand made then mass produced from a company. If possible I would return the set & find someone who does custom Sleeving with MDPC-X (Singularity Computers have started doing custom Cable orders, Icemodz is currently on break from making cables).
- CableMod Cables fit over the MNPCTech, Their way to lose. The comb just slides all around the cable. It doesn't lock the cable to the comb.
- Theirs zero info on the upcoming thicker line, Cablemods is keeping mostly quiet about it until the announcement date (Which is unknown). One CableMod rep said it's coming When I talked to him last month & Cable Combs will already be on the cables(Closed Comb).

- The first picture is closed comb just showing another company's comb Which you can see there extra space when the cable is placed in the comb.
- The Carbon Fiber comb in the next picture shows extra space too. Which is why the cable slides all around.
- The next is just a quick comparison between MDPC-X Cabling & CableMod Modmesh. As you can see MDPC-X is much thicker. Which allows the comb to lock to the sleeving. (My Project Frost build, I will be applying the cable combs very soon to my cables. If you want to see how their suppose to look).

- CableMod said their cables don't work with 3rd party cable combs. Theirs a thread somewhere on these forums with CableMod rep stating this.


----------



## VSG

The super elusive Aqua Computer cuplex kryos NEXT in its VARIO, VISION and PVD coating version:


----------



## sdmf74

First thank you for the photos. Are you sure that is Modmesh cables you have there and not modflex? Please confirm for me cause its easy to confuse the two. Modmesh is supposed to be thicker than the more mainstream modflex.

I know there is alot of conflicting info out there about these cables and cablecombs.
Cablemods own website even has conflicting statements about it.
MNPCTECH's website states that their carbon fiber cablecombs will not fit cablemod "modflex" cables but doesnt say anything about modmesh

I looked into custom cables in the usa but couldnt decide on a good source and most were super expensive, Im open to suggestions from anyone


----------



## nullreference

Does anyone have any experience using something like this instead of mandrels or a bending jig to bend PETG? I imagine you could
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> First thank you for the photos. Are you sure that is Modmesh cables you have there and not modflex? Please confirm for me cause its easy to confuse the two. Modmesh is supposed to be thicker than the more mainstream modflex.
> 
> I know there is alot of conflicting info out there about these cables and cablecombs.
> Cablemods own website even has conflicting statements about it.
> MNPCTECH's website states that their carbon fiber cablecombs will not fit cablemod "modflex" cables but doesnt say anything about modmesh
> 
> I looked into custom cables in the usa but couldnt decide on a good source and most were super expensive, Im open to suggestions from anyone


I have this same issue. Waiting on Performance PCs to get the colors I'm looking for in still for Cablemod ModMesh. Priced out some cables with Shakmods, and was looking at about 150$ for cables shipped from the UK. Crazy.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullreference*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience using something like this instead of mandrels or a bending jig to bend PETG?


i wouldn't use that really. Maybe just using the one part as a jig, but that's made for bendable metal tubing that you don't need to heat. I assume that would soak up a lot of the petg's heat before it was properly formed. I haven't used any proper mandrels or jigs for pc tubing yet though, just a tape measure and a scrap piece of cardboard for marking measurements and angles


----------



## nullreference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> i wouldn't use that really. Maybe just using the one part as a jig, but that's made for bendable metal tubing that you don't need to heat. I assume that would soak up a lot of the petg's heat before it was properly formed. I haven't used any proper mandrels or jigs for pc tubing yet though, just a tape measure and a scrap piece of cardboard for marking measurements and angles


Yeah I actually just used a bottle, soft measuring tape (Used for sewing), and a sharpie with rubbing alcohol. Measure the inlet to outlet and map out the bend with the soft measuring tape, mark the tubing with a sharpie and remember the bending pattern, and then bend one bend at a time, pulling the bending cord through for each bend. Use the rubbing alcohol to remove the sharpie if needed. I was able to get pretty solid bends my first time, but I didn't have to do anything complicated. I saw some others using 18AWG romex to map out their bends, wish I would have thought of that before I finished all of mine


----------



## MURDoctrine

So my rigs finally back up and running. Thanks for all the advice on the tubing. Mid-plat, EK Supremecy EVO, and PETG installed. Ignore the purple soft tubing. I was off by a bit on my passthrough and I didn't have any clear tubing on hand. Next up is to possibly get some Pastel once PPC gets the white back in stock.

*Before*



*After*


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Looks great - good job!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. Here are the components for my next build:
> 
> *Radiator1*: Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS® XFLOW Ultra Stealth Cross-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon
> *Radiator2*: Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS® Ultra Stealth U-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon
> *Pump*: EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump) w/ carbon sleeving and black heatshrink
> *Reservoir*: Watercool Heatkiller Tube 150
> *CPU*: Waiting for the 7740K
> *CPU Block*: Not decided yet but probably either a Heatkiller IV Pro or a Cuplex Kryos Next
> *GPU*: Waiting for the EVGA FTW3 1080Ti
> *GPU Block*: Not decided yet
> *Fans*: Be Quiet! SW3's (3x120mm and 2x140mm)
> *Tubing*: Mayhems Ultra Clear soft tubing
> *Coolant*: Mayhems Pastel
> *Case*: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX
> 
> Here are some of the tube routing options that I can think of:
> 
> *1.) With front 280mm GTS Xflow and 360mm GTS Uflow*
> 
> *1.a*
> 
> 
> 
> *1.b*
> 
> 
> 
> *2.) With front 280mm GTS Uflow and 360mm GTS Uflow*
> 
> *2.a*
> 
> 
> 
> *2.b*
> 
> 
> 
> So which one should I go with? Questions:
> 
> 1.) The 360mm rad goes up top. Which is a better orientation in my situation, ports on the left or ports on the right?
> 
> 2.) My main question is do you have any suggestions on how to go about tube routing? I know it would be a hell lot easier if I switch the rad positions (280mm xflow rad up top and 360mm uflow rad in front) but sticking with the 360mm top orientation will yield a better looking setup.
> 
> *NOTES:*
> 
> * The only reason I'm sticking with a 280mm xflow is it is marginally better performing than its uflow counterpart and is way less restrictive.
> 
> * On the other hand, the 360mm uflow is marginally better performaing than its xflow counterpart, so there's that. Also for the reason that I'm comfortable in using one very restrictive rad (this 360mm rad) but I'm not sure if a D5's head pressure can handle using two (280mm uflow and 360mm uflow).


Do you guys have any suggestions on this?


----------



## aaronstransam

Just finished my wifes little xeon build. Dont mind the old 6770, havent decided on a gpu yet  at least the pcb is green


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> First thank you for the photos. Are you sure that is Modmesh cables you have there and not modflex? Please confirm for me cause its easy to confuse the two. Modmesh is supposed to be thicker than the more mainstream modflex.
> 
> I know there is alot of conflicting info out there about these cables and cablecombs.
> Cablemods own website even has conflicting statements about it.
> MNPCTECH's website states that their carbon fiber cablecombs will not fit cablemod "modflex" cables but doesnt say anything about modmesh
> 
> I looked into custom cables in the usa but couldnt decide on a good source and most were super expensive, Im open to suggestions from anyone


Yes, I have both type of cables. Modflex is paracord, Modmesh is Nylon as you can see in the picture. You can the tell the difference very easily. The size of the cable has only been slightly increased. What's true for Modflex is true for modmesh with Mnptech combs.

Like I said already CableMod have stated 3rd party combs do not work with there cables only their own cable combs work.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I would replace the leaking fittings. Not worth the risk.


as would i
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I know that feeling. Just sent my board off for RMA. All I needed was to install windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> That's some tough love man. Saw the post issue in your wip too, my condolences.
> 
> I'm not sure I want to go with rotary fittings anymore. They seem rather delicate and leak prone after this experience... 2 in 8 doesn't seem like good odds
Click to expand...

i would say you may be exerting a bit too much force on them ( excessively long tubes or distorted runs/runs that are not alines quite right ) with that failure rate ....
no offense intended
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ir88ed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Pretty sure the bends won't reduce flow, that's just fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> No, Ceadderman is right. You will absolutely lose pressure as the fluid goes around a bend. It is how much pressure I am curious about. It looks like the math to figure out pressure loss includes variables like pipe diameter, bend radius, fluid density, and "slippery-ness" of the pipe. Based on my system performance, I would guess that the pressure drop is fairly minor.
> 
> Graphs and stuff here:
> http://www.thermopedia.com/content/577/
> 
> Also, stealing 0ldchicken's avatar, it looks like the turbulence is pretty minor as the fluid slides around the 90 deg bend.
Click to expand...

there is also a huge difference between "long radius" and "short radius" 90s/45s


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Yes, I have both type of cables. Modflex is paracord, Modmesh is Nylon as you can see in the picture. You can the tell the difference very easily. The size of the cable has only been slightly increased. What's true for Modflex is true for modmesh with Mnptech combs.
> 
> Like I said already CableMod have stated 3rd party combs do not work with there cables only their own cable combs work.


Yes but they also stated that they will work specifically with the carbon fiber cable combs AND I got confirmation from a rep through email that the modmesh are 3.1mm. I also talked with cablemod on facebook and they again said they are 3.1mm
So conflicting statements, I wanna believe they are in fact 3.1mm cause the mnpctech cc fit 3-4mm cables. Im not saying you are wrong I just wonder why the conflicting statements from CM.

Here is the response from MNPCTECH when I asked if the carbon fiber fit modmesh "Yes, they should fit the ModMesh version, Thank you"

How long have you had your modmesh cables, just curious?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is also a huge difference between "long radius" and "short radius" 90s/45s


But is that difference enough to matter? I have a D5 pump, a GPU block, CPU block, and two HW Labs GTS radiators - a 240 and a 280 - that are generally accepted as being fairly restrictive as far as radiators go. My loop is almost all tight bends with a couple of 90° fittings thrown in for good measure. I don't have a flow meter, but I could tell when filling the loop that it was sucking water down very quickly, and the turbulence in the res when under load seems to indicate it's flowing pretty good. I keep the pump turned down most of the time, and top PWM speed is 85% under stress testing, it's controlled by CPU temp and I have a pretty gentle curve to keep it from ramping up and down.

Anyways, this loop is a poster child of how to design a restrictive loop and it still performs extremely well, I don't think it's being hampered by flow restriction at all.


----------



## prznar1

The pump speed wont affect your temps as much as fan speed for example. And the loop restrictions are greatly exaggerated. "Restrictive" loop is the one with 4 fullcover blocks on gpus, all in series, 6 480 radiators, 10 90degree fittings and some old ek block, and people were able to pump all that with one ddc or d5 pump.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would say you may be exerting a bit too much force on them ( excessively long tubes or distorted runs/runs that are not alines quite right ) with that failure rate ....
> no offense intended


Did I miss something?







Was that reply for me?

TCO


----------



## ir88ed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> But is that difference enough to matter? I have a D5 pump, a GPU block, CPU block, and two HW Labs GTS radiators - a 240 and a 280 - that are generally accepted as being fairly restrictive as far as radiators go. My loop is almost all tight bends with a couple of 90° fittings thrown in for good measure. I don't have a flow meter, but I could tell when filling the loop that it was sucking water down very quickly, and the turbulence in the res when under load seems to indicate it's flowing pretty good. I keep the pump turned down most of the time, and top PWM speed is 85% under stress testing, it's controlled by CPU temp and I have a pretty gentle curve to keep it from ramping up and down.
> 
> Anyways, this loop is a poster child of how to design a restrictive loop and it still performs extremely well, I don't think it's being hampered by flow restriction at all.


I tend to agree, GC. In my setup I have the two GPU waterblocks in series, CPU block, 2x 240 rads, an upright external 480 rad up on the desktop 2ft higher than all the other components, and more 90deg bends than you can shake a hardline bending hose at, and performance still seems fine. Pump runs quietly and water temps are usually around 30-33degC while gaming, mid-high 20's at idle. I know the bends create pressure loss, but I am guessing that the slipperiness of the PETG and the small-ish diameter of the tubing diminish the effects of the turbulence induced by the bends.


----------



## aaronstransam

Main rig has 2x480 rads, 2x120 rads, 1x monoblock, 2x ram blocks, 2x full cover gpu's in series, half doven hard 90's and double that in bent ones all running on 1 d5 vario at lowest setting. Top rad is at least 18 inch above pump, flow and temps are great


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> gotta say as well, the last few builds are impressive indeed.
> 
> suggestions for a thin 240mm radiator?


hardware labs gts 240


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> hardware labs gts 240


It has a great thermal performance, It is a restrictive rad. If you have a decent pump it's nothing to worry about.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Yes but they also stated that they will work specifically with the carbon fiber cable combs AND I got confirmation from a rep through email that the modmesh are 3.1mm. I also talked with cablemod on facebook and they again said they are 3.1mm
> So conflicting statements, I wanna believe they are in fact 3.1mm cause the mnpctech cc fit 3-4mm cables. Im not saying you are wrong I just wonder why the conflicting statements from CM.
> 
> Here is the response from MNPCTECH when I asked if the carbon fiber fit modmesh "Yes, they should fit the ModMesh version, Thank you"
> 
> How long have you had your modmesh cables, just curious?


- Their is a language barrier that some reps don't fully get past. I asked them one question before & got an answer for something completely different.

- If they were 3.1 they wouldn't have any issues with most combs on the market, However they do. CableMod US Rep already confirmed they don't work. Not sure what else you need beyond this.

- I had mine since early this year, Theirs been no changes to the line since their release. The only change I'm aware of was the pin layout to the EVGA series.

- MNPCTech said "SHOULD", I don't they have tested that cable series. Their just guessing at this point based on the information from CableMod product. Their combs are designed for custom created cables.

- You can trust what I'm telling you or not. I have fully tested the product. It's the same set of cables you have. The results are not going to change if you buy them.

- Why don't you just get CableMod Combs? Those are designed to work with their series. They can be bought from Performance-pcs (US).

- If your want these combs I suggest returning CableMod set & getting a hand made series from Singularity Computers (AUS) or if your willing to go with Paracord Ensourced (US). You will pay allot from Ensourced. Just a warning about them.

- Once I'm done with my Build or Have down time, If your willing to pay for materials & labor. I can make them for you.

- Personally I would just create your own, It's not that hard. You can get icemodz to do Double crimped wires for you if you don't know how to do those type of wires(You only need three of those).

Sleeving Thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/13730
In My Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/build-log-project-frost-case-labs-thw10-x99-watercooled-i7-6950x-titan-x/540#post_26048849 (I wrote a Mini Guide for Sleeving, Since I kept getting asked How I do mine).


----------



## jleslie246

Saw this on amazon today. cool case but check out the flex on the video card!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Saw this on amazon today. cool case but check out the flex on the video card!


Probably because the tubing bends are putting strain on the card.

That's why a lot of people us rotary 45/90 degree fittings on certain GPU runs with flexible tubing.


----------



## Ceadderman

How bout just posting the pic for those of us on mobile please.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The super elusive Aqua Computer cuplex kryos NEXT in its VARIO, VISION and PVD coating version:


I see that you attached a lead to it ... was that so the elusive little bugger wouldn't fly away?


----------



## nycgtr

Anyone ever run a xspc raystorm v3 with an ek gpu block in parallel. I see that the raystorm is a very low resistance block.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I see that you attached a lead to it ... was that so the elusive little bugger wouldn't fly away?


They know how elusive it is, so it comes with one attached out of the box. It even has a connector that plugs into your motherboard to keep it tethered!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I see that you attached a lead to it ... was that so the elusive little bugger wouldn't fly away?
> 
> 
> 
> They know how elusive it is, so it comes with one attached out of the box. It even has a connector that plugs into your motherboard to keep it tethered!
Click to expand...

Rumor has that the next revision will have LoJack


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Rumor has that the next revision will have LoJack


The software already does!


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> How bout just posting the pic for those of us on mobile please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## looniam

just in case you're still having a problem see it chedder:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> just in case you're still having a problem see it *chedder:*




TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

LMAO, guessing posted via mobile or you have cheese on the mind


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The super elusive Aqua Computer cuplex kryos NEXT in its VARIO, VISION and PVD coating version:


This & the so called Vision Touch Table Top units are basically impossible to find. Not sure whats holding AQ up from speeding up production on these units. To my knowledge there's has only been one shipment of vision Touch table top units.


----------



## looniam

something wrong with cheese?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> something wrong with cheese?


I do love me some blue cheese.









TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

More a fan of Munster or Havarti cheeses lol Unless it's with wings then it's Blue Cheese. .


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> More a fan of Munster or Havarti cheeses lol Unless it's with wings then it's Blue Cheese. .


As in Eddi Munster?









I'm a big fan of Münsterkäse myself. Goes great with turkey on a sub.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> - Their is a language barrier that some reps don't fully get past. I asked them one question before & got an answer for something completely different.
> 
> - If they were 3.1 they wouldn't have any issues with most combs on the market, However they do. CableMod US Rep already confirmed they don't work. Not sure what else you need beyond this.
> 
> - I had mine since early this year, Theirs been no changes to the line since their release. The only change I'm aware of was the pin layout to the EVGA series.
> 
> - MNPCTech said "SHOULD", I don't they have tested that cable series. Their just guessing at this point based on the information from CableMod product. Their combs are designed for custom created cables.
> 
> - You can trust what I'm telling you or not. I have fully tested the product. It's the same set of cables you have. The results are not going to change if you buy them.
> 
> - Why don't you just get CableMod Combs? Those are designed to work with their series. They can be bought from Performance-pcs (US).
> 
> - If your want these combs I suggest returning CableMod set & getting a hand made series from Singularity Computers (AUS) or if your willing to go with Paracord Ensourced (US). You will pay allot from Ensourced. Just a warning about them.
> 
> - Once I'm done with my Build or Have down time, If your willing to pay for materials & labor. I can make them for you.
> 
> - Personally I would just create your own, It's not that hard. You can get icemodz to do Double crimped wires for you if you don't know how to do those type of wires(You only need three of those).
> 
> Sleeving Thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/13730
> In My Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/build-log-project-frost-case-labs-thw10-x99-watercooled-i7-6950x-titan-x/540#post_26048849 (I wrote a Mini Guide for Sleeving, Since I kept getting asked How I do mine).


There was no language barrier, his name is Matt, I know what you mean though Asus is notorious for giving wrong answers. I opened a ticket about their water pump+ header on M9F not working and they replied explaining how to test fans & linked me to bios 0906 after I had wrote bios 0906 in the field for bios that I'm using on the ticket. I don't think it's so much a language barrier with some companies rather than them just not having good customer service. CableMod was great though customer service ranks up there with EVGA & SWIFTECH.

I trust what you are saying, just wishful thinkin on my part is all. MNPCTech was rude, I'm gonna get one cf comb to test different cables with. He basically said I'm SOL and he is not interested in investing to make cc for cablemod cables which makes no sense to me. Wouldn't it be more profitable to make them for mainstream cables that more people own than for specialty cables that fewer people own? More sales = more profit, oh well once I get the cm cables I'll decide if I use em or buy custom ones, problem is not many options in the U.S. I looked at ensourced a while back but didn't pull the trigger although he made me some cc's that I ordered. I've got a ton of different cc's here all crap and break easy & look terrible.
I didnt know you did your own sleeving Thanks for the offer I'll keep that In mind. It looks like you use quality materials. I used to build wire harnesses for tractors/farm equipment etc. I just don't wanna bother with the first time headaches of making my own psu cables right now.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I do love me some blue cheese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You know what is coming...

The Cheesy One.

I prefer a good mozzarella. Or cheddar. Or really any cheese.

Mmm, cheese. Oops, got off topic.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I do love me some blue cheese.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> You know what is coming...
> 
> The Cheesy One.
> 
> I prefer a good mozzarella. Or cheddar. Or really any cheese.
> 
> Mmm, cheese. Oops, got off topic.
Click to expand...

Dubliner! All other cheese are ma bish. Pair it with a Pint of Guinness and a good rye cracker an you have a tasty snack. Add corned beef and you've got a meal.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycgtr

Still work in progress. Wife's machine


----------



## motor sw

New version of my loop. New pump, fittings, tube, coolant and fans


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> New version of my loop. New pump, fittings, tube, coolant and fans


Oh my god those tubing runs














The Cpu, and gpu to top radiator it's so beautiful. Good job man!


----------



## XCalinX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> Oh my god those tubing runs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cpu, and gpu to top radiator it's so beautiful. Good job man!


Yep, I agree, it looks fantastic, but that red/black motherboard with white coolant is making my OCD go pretty crazy


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCalinX*
> 
> Yep, I agree, it looks fantastic, but that red/black motherboard with white coolant is making my OCD go pretty crazy


Maybe it would be better if the fans also had some kind of red accent. I think that it could make the build a bit more balanced with the colour scheme.


----------



## motor sw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCalinX*
> 
> Yep, I agree, it looks fantastic, but that red/black motherboard with white coolant is making my OCD go pretty crazy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> Maybe it would be better if the fans also had some kind of red accent. I think that it could make the build a bit more balanced with the colour scheme.


Thanks chaps!








I agree, the red bits are kinda annoying but that was the style one the Asus Z97 platform. I guess I could paint the red bits, but I did not want to tear apart my motherboard lol. Next build will be more color unified


----------



## XCalinX

Haven't posted pics of my rig in this thread since before I went Ryzen. You can find the specs in my sig.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> hardware labs gts 240


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It has a great thermal performance, It is a restrictive rad. If you have a decent pump it's nothing to worry about.


Thank you for the input! Read some reviews online, it's a great performer.
Got lucky and found a guy who was selling it locally, grabbed it. I have a D5, shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> Thank you for the input! Read some reviews online, it's a great performer.
> Got lucky and found a guy who was selling it locally, grabbed it. I have a D5, shouldn't be a problem.


I have two 360 GTS I had left over from a old build & put it in my Gaming PC. The flow is still pretty good. I also have two D5 pumps running in the PC (Set to Speed of 2).


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> There was no language barrier, his name is Matt, I know what you mean though Asus is notorious for giving wrong answers. I opened a ticket about their water pump+ header on M9F not working and they replied explaining how to test fans & linked me to bios 0906 after I had wrote bios 0906 in the field for bios that I'm using on the ticket. I don't think it's so much a language barrier with some companies rather than them just not having good customer service. CableMod was great though customer service ranks up there with EVGA & SWIFTECH.
> 
> I trust what you are saying, just wishful thinkin on my part is all. MNPCTech was rude, I'm gonna get one cf comb to test different cables with. He basically said I'm SOL and he is not interested in investing to make cc for cablemod cables which makes no sense to me. Wouldn't it be more profitable to make them for mainstream cables that more people own than for specialty cables that fewer people own? More sales = more profit, oh well once I get the cm cables I'll decide if I use em or buy custom ones, problem is not many options in the U.S. I looked at ensourced a while back but didn't pull the trigger although he made me some cc's that I ordered. I've got a ton of different cc's here all crap and break easy & look terrible.
> I didnt know you did your own sleeving Thanks for the offer I'll keep that In mind. It looks like you use quality materials. I used to build wire harnesses for tractors/farm equipment etc. I just don't wanna bother with the first time headaches of making my own psu cables right now.


- I got one of their female reps to reply, She gave me a completely wrong answer on a topic I never asked about.
- MNPCTech Combs only work with cables that have an OD of 3mm+. I would try to get CableMod to tell you the correct OD instead of just the basic data. I don't have any devices that measures the OD of an object.
- MNPCTech have been nothing but great when I needed support. From finding more pieces (Since they only had five & I needed 10) to re-sending parts (Since they sent me the wrong screws).
- MNPCTech is a modding shop, For DIY projects. There Shop is designed for people who create their own things (From Cables to case modding). There's allot more people who do there own cables then you think.
- MNPCTech is a tiny company, Their not after MainStream Cables like from CableMod. Not to mention each cable comb is hand made. Which takes time & They would have to adjust certain aspects of there process to make it work for other cables.
- Also you could use CableMod Cable & Then buy some Cable Extensions made from MDPC-X or Teleios.


----------



## Ceadderman

^Agreed on all the above counts with regard to MNPCTech customer service. Of course I have only dealt with Bill and they are one of my sponsors. But with that said I never hesitate to call a spade a spade for good or bad experiences.

They are a mod friendly shop after all. And while they would love to supply every part known to man, the cost of doing so, sometimes is not there to be able to cater to all aspects in their manufacturing cycle.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthPeanut

Work in progress (just prefitting so no compression collars or anything on in the pic) and updating my setup but waiting on one more glass 90 degree piece from Mayhem to come in to finish it up. Better pictures to come once I have it all done and cleaned up but snapped a quick pic to share cause I thought it was coming along decent.

Learned a lot doing this setup and working with the glass tubing. Cutting it and sanding the ends was a most of the work.

This is literally the limit of the radiators you can put in the NZXT 450. There is like 2mm of clearance between the top of the XE 360 and the end tank of the PE 360. All the Vardar fans will be in push configuration and the rear slim 140 is exhaust.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> - I got one of their female reps to reply, She gave me a completely wrong answer on a topic I never asked about.
> - MNPCTech Combs only work with cables that have an OD of 3mm+. I would try to get CableMod to tell you the correct OD instead of just the basic data. I don't have any devices that measures the OD of an object.
> - MNPCTech have been nothing but great when I needed support. From finding more pieces (Since they only had five & I needed 10) to re-sending parts (Since they sent me the wrong screws).
> - MNPCTech is a modding shop, For DIY projects. There Shop is designed for people who create their own things (From Cables to case modding). There's allot more people who do there own cables then you think.
> - MNPCTech is a tiny company, Their not after MainStream Cables like from CableMod. Not to mention each cable comb is hand made. Which takes time & They would have to adjust certain aspects of there process to make it work for other cables.
> - Also you could use CableMod Cable & Then buy some Cable Extensions made from MDPC-X or Teleios.


The modmesh should be here in a few days, Ill take my calipers out and get a good measurement on em and report back.
He was prolly just busy or a little irritated fielding questions about $40-$50 worth of cable combs, I was very polite, no big deal.
I might stoop a little for mass produced cables but I refuse to use extensions lol. Like you said if I have to ill order some cablemod combs not the end of the world


----------



## jon666

Getting everything is still hanging loose. Will be unplugging everything again when I begin to fill her up. Most likely all the cables will run up directly from the bottom. Even have a fill port on the front of the case, nothing fancy though, it will be tucked away when I am done with it. Hot water was necessary to get the tube over the barbs, so I hope that is a good thing.



P.S.
Sure am glad I went with thicker tubing this time around. Made some bends on the bottom back that are pretty tight.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Getting everything is still hanging loose. Will be unplugging everything again when I begin to fill her up. Most likely all the cables will run up directly from the bottom. Even have a fill port on the front of the case, nothing fancy though, it will be tucked away when I am done with it. Hot water was necessary to get the tube over the barbs, so I hope that is a good thing.
> 
> P.S.
> Sure am glad I went with thicker tubing this time around. Made some bends on the bottom back that are pretty tight.


If that thing hanging on the board is your gpu, I would have to say I hope it's a little more secure once the build is finished.

TCO


----------



## jon666

Yeah, it is kinda limp on the right side. I'm not sure if I should try and cut out a back plate out of aluminum to stiffen it up. It is a Sapphire 390, might replace it in the coming months with whatever I can get a full block for. This universal has done its job, but that would probably be the easiest way to stiffen up a naked PCB. I haven't decided what to do with that since it still runs strong. Might even put off a new GPU/Block and pick up a clear side panel.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Yeah, it is kinda limp on the right side. I'm not sure if I should try and cut out a back plate out of aluminum to stiffen it up. It is a Sapphire 390, might replace it in the coming months with whatever I can get a full block for. This universal has done its job, but that would probably be the easiest way to stiffen up a naked PCB. I haven't decided what to do with that since it still runs strong. Might even put off a new GPU/Block and pick up a clear side panel.


From your picture, it looks close to snapping the pci.

TCO


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Yeah, it is kinda limp on the right side. I'm not sure if I should try and cut out a back plate out of aluminum to stiffen it up. It is a Sapphire 390, might replace it in the coming months with whatever I can get a full block for. This universal has done its job, but that would probably be the easiest way to stiffen up a naked PCB. I haven't decided what to do with that since it still runs strong. Might even put off a new GPU/Block and pick up a clear side panel.


A backplate isnt going to do much in the way of stopping GPU sag. Youll need something like this


----------



## jon666

So I will probably want the reference version since I don't have to worry about a fan. That is slick, but I think I will have to swap to 90 degree for the GPU to make this work, and even then not sure if I will have the clearance. Tape measure makes me think this is a no. Have been eye balling that clear side panel from the same company though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah that is an awesome stabilizer, but I am not sure I want to spend $42 for it. I may have to cobble my own support together instead. I see my RX 480 block sagging the hades out of the card. It's really heavy. That support is well made it's simply a matter of cost.









~Ceadder


----------



## ir88ed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthPeanut*
> 
> Work in progress (just prefitting so no compression collars or anything on in the pic) and updating my setup but waiting on one more glass 90 degree piece from Mayhem to come in to finish it up. Better pictures to come once I have it all done and cleaned up but snapped a quick pic to share cause I thought it was coming along decent.
> 
> Learned a lot doing this setup and working with the glass tubing. Cutting it and sanding the ends was a most of the work.
> 
> This is literally the limit of the radiators you can put in the NZXT 450. There is like 2mm of clearance between the top of the XE 360 and the end tank of the PE 360. All the Vardar fans will be in push configuration and the rear slim 140 is exhaust.


Looking pretty great! Nice work on the glass tubing. Lol, I find PETG challenging.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is also a huge difference between "long radius" and "short radius" 90s/45s
> 
> 
> 
> But is that difference enough to matter? I have a D5 pump, a GPU block, CPU block, and two HW Labs GTS radiators - a 240 and a 280 - that are generally accepted as being fairly restrictive as far as radiators go. My loop is almost all tight bends with a couple of 90° fittings thrown in for good measure. I don't have a flow meter, but I could tell when filling the loop that it was sucking water down very quickly, and the turbulence in the res when under load seems to indicate it's flowing pretty good. I keep the pump turned down most of the time, and top PWM speed is 85% under stress testing, it's controlled by CPU temp and I have a pretty gentle curve to keep it from ramping up and down.
> 
> Anyways, this loop is a poster child of how to design a restrictive loop and it still performs extremely well, I don't think it's being hampered by flow restriction at all.
Click to expand...

first that was more to people who said too many 90deg bends to that loop..... in hard tubing ( which i would consider "long radius" )

second pfft, i use 4 mcp35xs ( 2 mcp35x2s ) in 3 builds, and in my itx builds 2 ddcs..... my newest build will house 2 d5s, debating about doing 4 just because, but i am trying to make it "less busy" most of my builds house approx 10 feet of tubing... i know restrictive !!!! ( since playfulness does not translate into internet i hope you know i am playing with you, but i am serious )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would say you may be exerting a bit too much force on them ( excessively long tubes or distorted runs/runs that are not alines quite right ) with that failure rate ....
> no offense intended
> 
> 
> 
> Did I miss something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was that reply for me?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

no it was not, sorry :/


----------



## Ceadderman

Long/short travel, enough bends impact flow. This said, as long as as you like it makes no nevermind I guess. As long as the one off the pump is not short travel. Makes the pump work harder directly @ the Out. I honestly would not run that many 90° bends but that's me. The straighter the routes the better imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Long/short travel, enough bends impact flow. This said, as long as as you like it makes no nevermind I guess. As long as the one off the pump is not short travel. Makes the pump work harder directly @ the Out. I honestly would not run that many 90° bends but that's me. The straighter the routes the better imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have always wondered if 2x45 spaced a little apart is less restrictive than 1x90... shame Martin closed up shop


----------



## congnghexanh

I connected 2 pumps to increase the strength !!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHgxAcMWKPU


----------



## DarthPeanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ir88ed*
> 
> Looking pretty great! Nice work on the glass tubing. Lol, I find PETG challenging.


Thank you, this is my first attempt at hard line... much less the glass.

The line from the pump up to the front radiator is slightly off relative to the res tube but I am not sure I can correct that without causing more issues. It is correct with the chassis and the radiator so I may try to bend the res bracket slightly to adjust it and satisfy my OCD, given I can do without damaging anything.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> The modmesh should be here in a few days, Ill take my calipers out and get a good measurement on em and report back.
> He was prolly just busy or a little irritated fielding questions about $40-$50 worth of cable combs, I was very polite, no big deal.
> I might stoop a little for mass produced cables but I refuse to use extensions lol. Like you said if I have to ill order some cablemod combs not the end of the world


Just be careful with CableMod Combs, They can break very easily. It's one reason why I like using MNPCTech or Gosumodz Alliance Combs. Both are made from aluminum.


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah it's just too bad those are closed cc, although they would be great if I was building.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Yeah it's just too bad those are closed cc, although they would be great if I was building.


It's not hard to remove the pin from the connector & insert a cable comb. The issue you will run into is the ATX is double crimped at the connector hole. Which will not allot you to get the comb through (Or maybe you can since CableMod sleeving is much thinner then MDPC-X).


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: I been thinking of replacing my tubing & going with glass. I know it's not possible to bend Glass atlease for me(Since I don't have the hardware). Is it much harder to work with( I'm experienced enough with dremel tool to cut the glass without any issues)? I was wondering what else would I need? I would assume need sand paper/file or something to deburr the edges. That way you wouldn't rip apart the o-ring inside the fittings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: I been thinking of replacing my tubing & going with glass. I know it's not possible to bend Glass atlease for me(Since I don't have the hardware). Is it much harder to work with( I'm experienced enough with dremel tool to cut the glass without any issues)? I was wondering what else would I need? I would assume need sand paper/file or something to deburr the edges. That way you wouldn't rip apart the o-ring inside the fittings.


I used a dremel and a diamond wheel,score and snap style


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I mentioned a while back that I have done some neon tube bending in a past life, all that was used there was a small thin triangle file. Score and snap. The ends on neon tubes have to be very clean breaks to allow easy joining of the tubes, jagged ends are hard to melt together.

I imagine I've cut as many glass tubes as in all the glass tube water cooled rigs on the planet







and was still years from being what I would consider a neon tube bender.


----------



## lever2stacks

There is a special tool glass blowers use to cut glass it will give you a perfect snap every time here's a link JAWS.You do a small score then wet the score then snap it. You can use a propane torch like what a A\C guy uses you melt the edge smooth so it slides in the fitting.


----------



## Revan654

I noticed Performance-pcs has this Kit for Glass tubing: http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-borosilicate-glass-tube-cutting-kit.html


----------



## Mega Man

but they forgot the torch !


----------



## lever2stacks

I personally would not use sand paper you are adding some major stress to the glass by sanding it. I don't know about you guys but if I have expensive parts the last thing I want is for a piece of tubing to bust from stress. If you use a torch it makes a perfectly smooth edge and gets all the molecules happy.

I'm a glass blower it's what I do for a living so I kinda know what I'm talking about (kinda). Check my current build log in my sig I used glass for my tubing runs.









Lever


----------



## IT Diva

Getting back to some piccies . . .

Any one for some mini itx goodness . . . .

Ampu-Tt and Snowflake, the low end and high end.

Ampu-Tt gets the Impact VIII mobo while Snowflake gets the new Z270i Strix mobo.


----------



## DarthPeanut

I used 16mm Mayhem glass and initially tried the scoring with the hand tools some have pictured. It works but it is not the most comfortable thing to do imo. If you need to make a small adjustment for length in a tube this can be quite challenging to get it to break.

I switched to a dremel with a diamond wheel to make a nice perimeter cut/ score in the glass then it would snap much much easier. It allows for smaller cuts as well if you score deeper into the glass with it. I would try a test cut to find the right motor speed before your first real cut.

Sanding I had no issues at all and the glass I have sands extremely well as far as I can tell. I would use a slightly wet 120, 240, and then final with fully wet 1000. Finished product was nice clean smooth edge.

A little dow corning 111 oring lube in the compression fittings and it was like butter.

I have seen where people say to use a torch and I am sure that works very well also but I did not have access to one at the time. If I do another setup with glass I might try this just to make things a bit easier. Sanding was a lot of time and effort but the glass I used I rough housed a good bit without issue.. it is a more durable than I thought to be honest.


----------



## nycgtr

Waiting on my little lcd screen for the front.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Waiting on my little lcd screen for the front.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice and clean


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthPeanut*
> 
> I used 16mm Mayhem glass and initially tried the scoring with the hand tools some have pictured. It works but it is not the most comfortable thing to do imo. If you need to make a small adjustment for length in a tube this can be quite challenging to get it to break.
> 
> I switched to a dremel with a diamond wheel to make a nice perimeter cut/ score in the glass then it would snap much much easier. It allows for smaller cuts as well if you score deeper into the glass with it. I would try a test cut to find the right motor speed before your first real cut.
> 
> Sanding I had no issues at all and the glass I have sands extremely well as far as I can tell. I would use a slightly wet 120, 240, and then final with fully wet 1000. Finished product was nice clean smooth edge.
> 
> A little dow corning 111 oring lube in the compression fittings and it was like butter.
> 
> I have seen where people say to use a torch and I am sure that works very well also but I did not have access to one at the time. If I do another setup with glass I might try this just to make things a bit easier. Sanding was a lot of time and effort but the glass I used I rough housed a good bit without issue.. it is a more durable than I thought to be honest.


My biggest issue I think would be filing the edge to a 45 degree angle so it wouldn't tear the o-rings.

With Acrylic tubing I kind of cheat & use this:










Or a metal Nail file (Which is on my pocket knife)

Also is there any difference between AlphaCool & Mayhems glass tubing?


----------



## Mega Man

look into 111 ( dow corning makes it. it is now called molykote ) it helps alot


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. Is it at all possible to build a loop with soft tubing using straight fittings and yield a good tube routing?


I dunno. This is what i've managed to put together using soft tubing. Only thing i've changed since that photo was adding an Aquacomputer flow meter.



Here it is before adding the front 280mm radiator and all the fittings.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthPeanut*
> 
> I used 16mm Mayhem glass and initially tried the scoring with the hand tools some have pictured. It works but it is not the most comfortable thing to do imo. If you need to make a small adjustment for length in a tube this can be quite challenging to get it to break.
> 
> I switched to a dremel with a diamond wheel to make a nice perimeter cut/ score in the glass then it would snap much much easier. It allows for smaller cuts as well if you score deeper into the glass with it. I would try a test cut to find the right motor speed before your first real cut.


I REALLY hope those of you who are cuttting/scoring glass, especially with a dremel, are wearing a PROPER N100 or better particulate respirator and not some stupid paper disposable mask. If you breathe that fine glass in you'll end up like a friend of mine who didn't think before sandblasting with glass beads... dead. You first start off with shortness of breath, followed by painful breathing where its like someone is standing on your chest. I wont get too much more into specifics but you end up drowning because your lungs fill with blood.


----------



## alienalvan

Hi all,

Currently I'm rebuilding my water cooling loop & I'm having a normal water pump which is 19w & Cooler Master Seidon 240 water block pump, so I'm not sure whether i should use both pump within the loop. Any good suggestions? Thanks


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> I dunno. This is what i've managed to put together using soft tubing. Only thing i've changed since that photo was adding an Aquacomputer flow meter.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is before adding the front 280mm radiator and all the fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's definitely a significant upgrade in tube routing! Are those all rotaries?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Currently I'm rebuilding my water cooling loop & I'm having a normal water pump which is 19w & Cooler Master Seidon 240 water block pump, so I'm not sure whether i should use both pump within the loop. Any good suggestions? Thanks


I'd leave out the CM Seidon pump, its barely strong enough to move enough water trough its own clodplate, wouldn't be any use in a loop like that. And I wouldn't be surprised if the flow rate from the 19W pump actually makes it to spin faster than intended causing the bearing to fail very rapidly.

What exactly is that 19W pump you'll be using btw?


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I'd leave out the CM Seidon pump, its barely strong enough to move enough water trough its own clodplate, wouldn't be any use in a loop like that. And I wouldn't be surprised if the flow rate from the 19W pump actually makes it to spin faster than intended causing the bearing to fail very rapidly.
> 
> What exactly is that 19W pump you'll be using btw?


Well it's just a non branded pump that I found in TaoBao, performance wise it's doing what it suppose to do, but not sure how long it will last since just bought it not long ago, it's just at around $15 dollars


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I personally would not use sand paper you are adding some major stress to the glass by sanding it. I don't know about you guys but if I have expensive parts the last thing I want is for a piece of tubing to bust from stress. If you use a torch it makes a perfectly smooth edge and gets all the molecules happy.
> 
> I'm a glass blower it's what I do for a living so I kinda know what I'm talking about (kinda). Check my current build log in my sig I used glass for my tubing runs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lever


Would actylene tourch (it's what I have on hand from doing refrigeration) work for this. I'm interested in seeing a little video of someone doing this process


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> My biggest issue I think would be filing the edge to a 45 degree angle so it wouldn't tear the o-rings.
> 
> With Acrylic tubing I kind of cheat & use this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or a metal Nail file (Which is on my pocket knife)
> 
> Also is there any difference between AlphaCool & Mayhems glass tubing?


Hey Revan (or anyone else), can you advise what the part number of that tool is? Also, will it de-burr 16mm tubing?

Thanks!


----------



## motor sw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey Revan (or anyone else), can you advise what the part number of that tool is? Also, will it de-burr 16mm tubing?
> 
> Thanks!


I bought mine at Highflow.nl. They have for both 12 and 16mm rigid tubes. Awsome piece of kit!








https://www.highflow.nl/watercooling/acrylic-rigid/acrylic-rigid-tools/

I think Primochill have a similar tool if you are US based.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> I bought mine at Highflow.nl. They have for both 12 and 16mm rigid tubes. Awsome piece of kit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.highflow.nl/watercooling/acrylic-rigid/acrylic-rigid-tools/
> 
> I think Primochill have a similar tool if you are US based.


That's awesome, thank you! I've been using a file for my acrylic tubes. This will speed things up considerably.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I personally would not use sand paper you are adding some major stress to the glass by sanding it. I don't know about you guys but if I have expensive parts the last thing I want is for a piece of tubing to bust from stress. If you use a torch it makes a perfectly smooth edge and gets all the molecules happy.
> 
> I'm a glass blower it's what I do for a living so I kinda know what I'm talking about (kinda). Check my current build log in my sig I used glass for my tubing runs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lever
> 
> 
> 
> Would actylene tourch (it's what I have on hand from doing refrigeration) work for this. I'm interested in seeing a little video of someone doing this process
Click to expand...

should, if not oxy-acty torches will ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey Revan (or anyone else), can you advise what the part number of that tool is? Also, will it de-burr 16mm tubing?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I bought mine at Highflow.nl. They have for both 12 and 16mm rigid tubes. Awsome piece of kit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.highflow.nl/watercooling/acrylic-rigid/acrylic-rigid-tools/
> 
> I think Primochill have a similar tool if you are US based.
Click to expand...

isn't that doing the inside of the pipe not the outside ?


----------



## emsj86

Thanks. I have both oxy-actylene and acty. Might be worth doing when I get bored of my fluid color


----------



## lever2stacks

]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Would actylene tourch (it's what I have on hand from doing refrigeration) work for this. I'm interested in seeing a little video of someone doing this process


Acetylene is not a clean burning gas and will leave a nasty residue on borosilicate. You would need either propane or natural gas (propane is preferred) if you want to melt boro properly. If you like I'll make a video of how it's done tonight when I get to the shop.

I'm going to add this you will need a kiln to anneal the glass after you heat the ends or if you sand them. You are leaving stress behind when you add any type of heat or friction to the glass and the only way to get that stress out is with a kiln and a proper annealing cycle. It might look good to the naked eye but there is invisible stress inside the glass that you can only see with a polariscope. It could break out of nowhere 5 months from now you never know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> should, if not oxy-acty torches will ...
> isn't that doing the inside of the pipe not the outside ?


Did you at least google acetylene fueled torch with borosilicate glass before giving this answer?


----------



## motor sw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> should, if not oxy-acty torches will ...
> isn't that doing the inside of the pipe not the outside ?


Inside and outside.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> That's awesome, thank you! I've been using a file for my acrylic tubes. This will speed things up considerably.


I have the 12mm version, it's good for making small adjustments to tubing, shaving off small amounts at a time to get the perfect length.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Well it's just a non branded pump that I found in TaoBao, performance wise it's doing what it suppose to do, but not sure how long it will last since just bought it not long ago, it's just at around $15 dollars


Don't know how reliable those are either, I'd make sure the over temperature protections are set properly in case it does end up failing.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> ]
> Acetylene is not a clean burning gas and will leave a nasty residue on borosilicate. You would need either propane or natural gas (propane is preferred) if you want to melt boro properly. If you like I'll make a video of how it's done tonight when I get to the shop.
> 
> I'm going to add this you will need a kiln to anneal the glass after you heat the ends or if you sand them. You are leaving stress behind when you add any type of heat or friction to the glass and the only way to get that stress out is with a kiln and a proper annealing cycle. It might look good to the naked eye but there is invisible stress inside the glass that you can only see with a polariscope. It could break out of nowhere 5 months from now you never know.
> Did you at least google acetylene fueled torch with borosilicate glass before giving this answer?


A. Ideal would be nice. I'm sure o can get access to the material or tools needed for the most part


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> A. Ideal would be nice. I'm sure o can get access to the material or tools needed for the most part


I work at night I can do a video when I get to the shop later, It all will make much more sense in a video.

Here's a rundown

You will need a way to score the glass to snap it. There are many ways to do this, I recommend using the Jaws. You put a very small and light score in the glass you don't squeeze tight or go all the way around just a small 3mm score. Just enough to put a bit of stress in the glass, wet the score then snap it. You should end up with a perfect snap. It might take a couple practice try's to get this down. Or you can use a tile saw with a diamond blade meant for cutting glass.

Now you need to melt the snapped area smooth. The torch is relatively cheap here's a link Torch you can get them anywhere. It won't get the glass to hot where it looses shape but it will get it just hot enough to get the end to puddle up enough to make it smooth, It takes about 5 mins for this to happen. Hold the glass upright so the glass doesn't slump in any weird directions and heat just the snapped tip area till it puddles up and smooths out all the way around.

I am more than willing to anneal peoples glass for them if they need it done. I have a large kiln and just want to help people get this done correctly.

Lever


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey Revan (or anyone else), can you advise what the part number of that tool is? Also, will it de-burr 16mm tubing?
> 
> Thanks!


Highflow.nl is the only place to get it(It's under Watercooling tools, They have a flat shipping rate of 30 dollars if you have it shipped to the US, Price can increase based on weight & size). PrimoChill has one but it's only for 12mm version, They don't have a 16mm version last time I checked. Also don't use this one color tubing it sometimes leaves a small mark. Also their is for metric tubing only it will not work well with tubing that is imperial based like MonSoon or PrimoChill.

When attached to the drill do not go past 500 rpm or it shred the tubing apart. One thing I also noticed with the tool is it doesn't work well with Bitspower tubing(Due to the thicker inner wall). But works great with AlphaCool.


----------



## docsys

@ lever2stacks:
So if I get you correctly... you as a glass pro wouldn't recommend to anyone just buying prebent glass tubing, cut it to length, sand the edges, put it in that fittings and call it a day because of possible microfractures that can end up catastrophic in someones build? Is it always essential (in sense of safety) to get the stress out of the glass by putting it into a kiln and anneal it? Or only if you are sanding the glass? If so: is slightly melting the edges with a torch a safe way without using a kiln?

I just want to get sure about that because I was thinking about going with glass tubing some day and got a little afraid of what you were writing.

Thank you for your advices and the efforts you are willing to do with your videos and your offer to help people out with their tubings! +REP


----------



## jon666

So I started to fill up my loop, saw a package of o-rings sitting on top of the case after pouring in a good amount of water. I think they gave me those for a reason...oops. Only have to pull the bottom two fittings on the rad at the bottom of the case luckily. After that goof, I've been triple checking everything else while things dry out.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Anyone know if there are any tube reservoirs with a larger OD than 80mm? Short of using a submersible pump in a fish-tank, I really can't find any solutions for wider options.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> @ lever2stacks:
> So if I get you correctly... you as a glass pro wouldn't recommend to anyone just buying prebent glass tubing, cut it to length, sand the edges, put it in that fittings and call it a day because of possible microfractures that can end up catastrophic in someones build? Is it always essential (in sense of safety) to get the stress out of the glass by putting it into a kiln and anneal it? Or only if you are sanding the glass? If so: is slightly melting the edges with a torch a safe way without using a kiln?
> 
> I just want to get sure about that because I was thinking about going with glass tubing some day and got a little afraid of what you were writing.
> 
> Thank you for your advices and the efforts you are willing to do with your videos and your offer to help people out with their tubings! +REP


I would anneal the glass with either method they both give different types of stress. There's a chance that it might just be fine but there's also a chance it could break I would say 50/50 how catastrophic would remain on the situation. It might crack and never leak, It might crack and have a small leak, it might explode and dump your whole loop, It might not crack at all and you are all good. These are some situations that could happen.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Anyone know if there are any tube reservoirs with a larger OD than 80mm? Short of using a submersible pump in a fish-tank, I really can't find any solutions for wider options.


I believe 80 OD is the largest you can find. I haven't seen anything larger then 80.


----------



## emsj86

Thanks for the tips. I think I will go this route. I'm sure once insert the video it will all make sense.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I believe 80 OD is the largest you can find. I haven't seen anything larger then 80.


Yeah, I haven't either so I figured I should ask. Oh well, I guess I'll go with Koolance then. Nice reservoirs, but a bit smaller than I would prefer. Planning to do a copper cast of a statue/figurine and place it inside the reservoir so I want as much space as possible.


----------



## dwolvin

Huh, can't wait to see that!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah, I haven't either so I figured I should ask. Oh well, I guess I'll go with Koolance then. Nice reservoirs, but a bit smaller than I would prefer. Planning to do a copper cast of a statue/figurine and place it inside the reservoir so I want as much space as possible.


I know AquaComputer also has a 80 OD res. Not sure if you interested in a glass res or not.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I know AquaComputer also has a 80 OD res. Not sure if you interested in a glass res or not.


I don't really care if it's glass or acrylic to be honest, acrylic is easier to work with though. I'll have to see what I end up doing, it's probably going to be one of the last steps I take in the revisited build that I'm planning. I'm probably going with Aquacomputer or Watercool for my blocks though as they are among the few who offer full copper blocks at this point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Huh, can't wait to see that!


I think so to, though the rest of the build will have to be up to the same standard first and that's going to take a LONG time









Also not sure if I should do the continuous updates like I did in my last build log or just build it all over time and post the updates after it's finished. My last build log was a disaster to be honest, since I was rushed and couldn't finish even a fraction of what I wanted to do.


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I would anneal the glass with either method they both give different types of stress. There's a chance that it might just be fine but there's also a chance it could break I would say 50/50 how catastrophic would remain on the situation. It might crack and never leak, It might crack and have a small leak, it might explode and dump your whole loop, It might not crack at all and you are all good. These are some situations that could happen.


Thank you sir for that answer and pro-tips. I really appreciate!

But anyway @ all:
Since it is possible to buy prebent glass tubing nowadays and none of the retailers (as far as I know) remind of anneal the cut to length tubings afterwards... How many of you builders have gone with glass tubing? Have you done the annealing the way @lever2stacks recommends? How long is your system running since building without doing it the "pro-way"? Has anyone got around those predicted possible problems so far?

Don't get me wrong! I don't doubt that the described method would be the best! I just wanted to figure out how common or probably such problems would be in practice.


----------



## gapsna

I just finished my first build!!









Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
Processor: Intel Core i7 6700K [email protected] GHz
GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Sea Hawk EK X
RAM: G.Skill 32(4x8)GB DDR4 2133MHz
PSU: Corsair RM650x 80+ Gold
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass

Loop:
pump/res combo: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
CPU block: EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
Rad: EK-CoolStream PE 360
RadFans: 120x120x25mm be quiet! Silent Wings 3 PWM High-Speed 2200 U/min 28.6 dB(A)
Tubing: EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12mm
coolant: EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Premix


----------



## InsideJob

Been a long while seen I've posted here. Recently changed my loop config when I upgraded to Ryzen, figured I'd share some pics


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I don't really care if it's glass or acrylic to be honest, acrylic is easier to work with though. I'll have to see what I end up doing, it's probably going to be one of the last steps I take in the revisited build that I'm planning. I'm probably going with Aquacomputer or Watercool for my blocks though as they are among the few who offer full copper blocks at this point.
> I think so to, though the rest of the build will have to be up to the same standard first and that's going to take a LONG time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also not sure if I should do the continuous updates like I did in my last build log or just build it all over time and post the updates after it's finished. My last build log was a disaster to be honest, since I was rushed and couldn't finish even a fraction of what I wanted to do.


I personally could never got back using an acrylic res after using glass one.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapsna*
> 
> I just finished my first build!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
> Processor: Intel Core i7 6700K [email protected] GHz
> GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Sea Hawk EK X
> RAM: G.Skill 32(4x8)GB DDR4 2133MHz
> PSU: Corsair RM650x 80+ Gold
> Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass
> 
> Loop:
> pump/res combo: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
> CPU block: EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
> Rad: EK-CoolStream PE 360
> RadFans: 120x120x25mm be quiet! Silent Wings 3 PWM High-Speed 2200 U/min 28.6 dB(A)
> Tubing: EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12mm
> coolant: EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Premix
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's very nice







I would never have guessed it was your first build, it turned out great.


----------



## DarthPeanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> look into 111 ( dow corning makes it. it is now called molykote ) it helps alot












Yep, it is great and helped a good bit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> I REALLY hope those of you who are cuttting/scoring glass, especially with a dremel, are wearing a PROPER N100 or better particulate respirator and not some stupid paper disposable mask. If you breathe that fine glass in you'll end up like a friend of mine who didn't think before sandblasting with glass beads... dead. You first start off with shortness of breath, followed by painful breathing where its like someone is standing on your chest. I wont get too much more into specifics but you end up drowning because your lungs fill with blood.


I only used a normal mask...









My understanding was crystalline silica dioxide was the issue which can be used in an abrasive bead blasting application but would *not* be what you would find in the borosilicate glass tube.

The MSDS on borosilicate glass fragments or crushed glass does not classify it as hazardous in that way at all or carcinogenic. It does state it can cause irritation of the lungs or mucus membrane but it is not like crystalline silica dioxide. It is not listed to have any cronic health effects.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthPeanut*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, it is great and helped a good bit.
> I only used a normal mask...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My understanding was crystalline silica dioxide was the issue which can be used in an abrasive bead blasting application but would *not* be what you would find in the borosilicate glass tube.
> 
> The MSDS on borosilicate glass fragments or crushed glass does not classify it as hazardous in that way at all or carcinogenic. It does state it can cause irritation of the lungs or mucus membrane but it is not like crystalline silica dioxide. It is not listed to have any cronic health effects.


Borosilicate dust is very dangerous you should be wearing some type of respirator if you are to be in contact with it. When you grind glass you make a glass dust that is very light and floats around for a very long time. You should be working glass in a very well ventilated room. If you breath in enough glass dust you can get silicosis a very nasty lung disease.


----------



## iamjanco

Sample Material Safety Data Sheet Glass Borosilicate

I imagine that by grinding, cutting, and/or sanding (if not by some other way) borosilicate glass dust might be created, but I find no official reference to health hazards associated with such dust particles. Could it be that those involved in establishing safety and health protocols for products never envisioned borosilicate glass tubes being treated in such a way?

As an aside I also found a user's comment at the bottom of the page found at the following link that states:

_borosilicate glass does not contain crystalline silica which is what causes silicosis. It is amorphous. No problem with being safe though._

--ref: Mayhems Borosilicate Glass Tube Review

Again, as usual, when doing whatever you're going to do to accomplish whatever it is you have in mind, erring on the side of safety is always prudent. Last but not least a suggestion: if you're going to share something that probably ought to be cited, it wouldn't hurt to add a link to that source.

Also see:

Maltoma of Lung in a Glass Blower

Safety Assessment of Borosilicate Glasses as Used in Cosmetics

CAS Number: 65997-17-3


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> My biggest issue I think would be filing the edge to a 45 degree angle so it wouldn't tear the o-rings.
> 
> With Acrylic tubing I kind of cheat & use this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or a metal Nail file (Which is on my pocket knife)
> 
> Also is there any difference between AlphaCool & Mayhems glass tubing?


Name of item please


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Name of item please


http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/104640#post_26081846


----------



## iamjanco

I have one of those deburrers myself, bought via Highflow in Holland after watching a video of them using it. The manufacturer is located in Belgium: Henco.


----------



## nycgtr

SO i dug up this xspc passive/reservoir from back in 2008 in my storage. I never used it and considered putting it to use for giggles. I noticed the inside is pretty much aluminium. Would this cause an issue with today's blocks?


----------



## DarthBaggins

bought it from MicroCenter too, and I would think Aluminum would cause issues last I remember.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> SO i dug up this xspc passive/reservoir from back in 2008 in my storage. I never used it and considered putting it to use for giggles. I noticed the inside is pretty much aluminium. Would this cause an issue with today's blocks?


I would not risk it. Mixed metals in 2008 are still mixed metals in 2017


----------



## nycgtr

Yea I considered that. Too bad it isn't all acrylic inside sigh.


----------



## DarthPeanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> Borosilicate dust is very dangerous you should be wearing some type of respirator if you are to be in contact with it. When you grind glass you make a glass dust that is very light and floats around for a very long time. You should be working glass in a very well ventilated room. If you breath in enough glass dust you can get silicosis a very nasty lung disease.


Of course some kind of protection for you lungs is always advisable but again borosilicate glass does not contain the crystalline silica which is the one that is the major health hazard if you breathe.

I was outside when I cut this and wearing a basic particulate filtering mask.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Sample Material Safety Data Sheet Glass Borosilicate
> 
> I imagine that by grinding, cutting, and/or sanding (if not by some other way) borosilicate glass dust might be created, but I find no official reference to health hazards associated with such dust particles. Could it be that those involved in establishing safety and health protocols for products never envisioned borosilicate glass tubes being treated in such a way?
> 
> As an aside I also found a user's comment at the bottom of the page found at the following link that states:
> 
> _borosilicate glass does not contain crystalline silica which is what causes silicosis. It is amorphous. No problem with being safe though._
> 
> --ref: Mayhems Borosilicate Glass Tube Review
> 
> Again, as usual, when doing whatever you're going to do to accomplish whatever it is you have in mind, erring on the side of safety is always prudent. Last but not least a suggestion: if you're going to share something that probably ought to be cited, it wouldn't hurt to add a link to that source.
> 
> Also see:
> 
> Maltoma of Lung in a Glass Blower
> 
> Safety Assessment of Borosilicate Glasses as Used in Cosmetics
> 
> CAS Number: 65997-17-3












This is the information I found as well searching before I cut the glass. It can irritate your lungs certainly if you breath enough of it but it is not know to cause the lung issues that crystalline silica does.

It seems a lot of generalized labeling of anything "glass" will get associated.

It is good to be as safe as possible of course but I read the same information stipulating it is not crystalline silica containing product.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthPeanut*
> 
> Of course some kind of protection for you lungs is always advisable but again borosilicate glass does not contain the crystalline silica which is the one that is the major health hazard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the information I found as well searching before I cut the glass.
> 
> It can irritate your lungs certainly if you breath enough of it but it is not know to cause the lung issues that crystalline silica does.


I'm not sure if that's 100% accurate, as none of the info I read referenced the sanding, grinding or cutting of borosilicate glass. Again, my take is to err on the side of caution.I should also mention that while the silica that is deemed harmful is considered crystalline silica, borosilicate glass is still made using silica, just the non-crystalline variety. I'm not enough of an expert on glass and its makeup to make a judgment call in any event. Actually, I'm far from one and am just good at using Google







.


----------



## DarthPeanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I'm not sure if that's 100% accurate, as none of the info I read referenced the sanding, grinding or cutting of borosilicate glass. Again, my take is to err on the side of caution.


The MSDS sheet linked above references glass fragments or crushed glass.

Safe is good and certainly err on the side of caution but borosilicate does not contain crystalline silica from what I am reading.


----------



## M-Sauce

I've used Alphacool and Mayhems glass in my build.

I found Alphacool tighter to fit on my bitspower fittings. Maybe just the batch I got was a little thicker, I don't know. Glass has small variations in thickness along the length of the tube.

I cut mine with a diamond coated saw wheel for my dremel tool. Worked great. Then used another diamond saw wheel (solid) to chamfer the outside edge.

I regularly dipped the glass in water to reduce dust as I cut. Also wore goggles and a mask, but only a surgical mask. Sounds like maybe I should find a better mask, but there was very little dust if any with the water.

Curious to see the ends heat treated. I thought about it (like back in chemistry class) but I worried about the outside diameter bulging and getting too tight to fit in the fittings.

Either way, I'm very happy with the results. I love how clean it looks and looking forward to see how long my fluid color lasts.


----------



## dentnvr6

Already posted these in the X owner's topic too, but wanted to share with everyone:

My amateur rig:


----------



## hrockh

incredible build, well done.

I'm looking for a 4 pin to 3 fin fan header converted. I don't want to use PWM to control the fan speed, I'll set them at 7v. I found this one, but it's ridiculously expensive.
https://www.moddiy.com/products/Fan-4%252dPin-PWM-to-3%252dPin-Sleeved-Adapter-Cable.html?setCurrencyId=6&gclid=CjwKEAjw9MrIBRCr2LPek5-h8U0SJAD3jfhtEHNCmCvZs2S7Qd5B3XjhVHwTxVr_knIJOpUJDua6IhoCO5jw_wcB

any cheap alternative?

EDIT
found this Phobya cable
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/phobya-adaptor-4pin-pwm-plug-to-3pin-socket-30cm-black.html


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dentnvr6*
> 
> Already posted these in the X owner's topic too, but wanted to share with everyone:
> 
> My amateur rig:


Amazing.

Do you have a log in the forum for that rig? Or can you share with us the details please?

I see


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthPeanut*
> 
> Of course some kind of protection for you lungs is always advisable but again borosilicate glass does not contain the crystalline silica which is the one that is the major health hazard if you breathe.
> 
> I was outside when I cut this and wearing a basic particulate filtering mask.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the information I found as well searching before I cut the glass. It can irritate your lungs certainly if you breath enough of it but it is not know to cause the lung issues that crystalline silica does.
> 
> It seems a lot of generalized labeling of anything "glass" will get associated.
> 
> It is good to be as safe as possible of course but I read the same information stipulating it is not crystalline silica containing product.


Outside is an alright option but the dust can still settle around you if there is no breeze and the wind can blow it in your face.

I'm not sure if you know this or not but the data sheet you posted is for glass fragments and crushed glass. This is a product that you buy already in dust or powder form. This is not the same as borosilicate in solid form that you are grinding down to fine dust and particulates.

Here's the MSDS for bororsilicate from corning for borosilicate glass in solid form. If you go down to Section 8 - Exposure Controls / Personal Protection you will see that all these things are true if levels are below the recommended exposure limits, With a properly ventilated room and proper respirators.

When you grind glass you make microscopic particulates the are really light and float around in the air for long periods of time. That's why proper ventilation is needed! Using water is one of the best things you can do but it doesn't stop the dust completely. I'm not making this up, I'm not trying to steer you in the wrong direction, I want you guys to be safe people die from this!!!!!!


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> incredible build, well done.
> 
> I'm looking for a 4 pin to 3 fin fan header converted. I don't want to use PWM to control the fan speed, I'll set them at 7v. I found this one, but it's ridiculously expensive.
> https://www.moddiy.com/products/Fan-4%252dPin-PWM-to-3%252dPin-Sleeved-Adapter-Cable.html?setCurrencyId=6&gclid=CjwKEAjw9MrIBRCr2LPek5-h8U0SJAD3jfhtEHNCmCvZs2S7Qd5B3XjhVHwTxVr_knIJOpUJDua6IhoCO5jw_wcB
> 
> any cheap alternative?
> 
> EDIT
> found this Phobya cable
> http://www.candccentral.co.uk/phobya-adaptor-4pin-pwm-plug-to-3pin-socket-30cm-black.html


better solution, buy some 3 pin connectors and replace the 4 pins connector with this one.
https://www.moddiy.com/products/modDIY-Female-3%252dPin-Fan-Connector-(Molex-%232510)-with-Pins.html?setCurrencyId=6&gclid=CjwKEAjw9MrIBRCr2LPek5-h8U0SJAD3jfhtPTuG65CAb8Oalk7sM7pfRUmaSk9rspBWQOKBqHbA7RoC75vw_wcB


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey Revan (or anyone else), can you advise what the part number of that tool is? Also, will it de-burr 16mm tubing?
> 
> Thanks!


I bought one of those tools for 16mm tubing, and found that it scratches the crap out of Bitspower 16mm tubing. It was expensive and I will not ever use it


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> better solution, buy some 3 pin connectors and replace the 4 pins connector with this one.
> https://www.moddiy.com/products/modDIY-Female-3%252dPin-Fan-Connector-(Molex-%232510)-with-Pins.html?setCurrencyId=6&gclid=CjwKEAjw9MrIBRCr2LPek5-h8U0SJAD3jfhtPTuG65CAb8Oalk7sM7pfRUmaSk9rspBWQOKBqHbA7RoC75vw_wcB


Do you mind if I ask you why you want to convert your PWM fans to 3 pin? You can control PWM fans perfectly fine without changing the connector.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I bought one of those tools for 16mm tubing, and found that it scratches the crap out of Bitspower 16mm tubing. It was expensive and I will not ever use it


That's due to the thicker inner wall that Bitspower has in there tubing. Also make sure you run your drill at good speed, Higher you go in rpm the more likely it will cause issues. I try run mine at around 300 rpm's. I could never get Bitspower tubing placed properly in the tool.

With that Said I do notice this tool does create scratches at times. The tool isn't properly padded like PrimoChill one is. It's more noticeable on tubing that has color tint to it. I still stick with the old fashion method of using a small file(Most of the time). Since I have more control over how the tubing will turn out.


----------



## Revan654

I can't seem the exact comments. With Glass tubing some say use torch for the ends after you cut it. Does anyone have any links to this torch? If possible Amazon.com.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I can't seem the exact comments. With Glass tubing some say use torch for the ends after you cut it. Does anyone have any links to this torch? If possible Amazon.com.


Propane torch you can get this just about any hardware store in the plumbing department even Wal-Mart for much cheaper. It cost more to ship a flamable gas container.

I'm making the video right now sorry for the delay.


----------



## lever2stacks

Here's the video on how I cut and polish the ends on glass tubing.





Notice how I spin the glass back and forth to keep it heating the end evenly? That's so it doesn't just heat one spot and creates a very even and smooth end that slides right into fittings without any grease.

Lever


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Sample Material Safety Data Sheet Glass Borosilicate
> 
> I imagine that by grinding, cutting, and/or sanding (if not by some other way) borosilicate glass dust might be created, but I find no official reference to health hazards associated with such dust particles. Could it be that those involved in establishing safety and health protocols for products never envisioned borosilicate glass tubes being treated in such a way?
> 
> As an aside I also found a user's comment at the bottom of the page found at the following link that states:
> 
> _borosilicate glass does not contain crystalline silica which is what causes silicosis. It is amorphous. No problem with being safe though._
> 
> --ref: Mayhems Borosilicate Glass Tube Review
> 
> Again, as usual, when doing whatever you're going to do to accomplish whatever it is you have in mind, erring on the side of safety is always prudent. Last but not least a suggestion: if you're going to share something that probably ought to be cited, it wouldn't hurt to add a link to that source.
> 
> Also see:
> 
> Maltoma of Lung in a Glass Blower
> 
> Safety Assessment of Borosilicate Glasses as Used in Cosmetics
> 
> CAS Number: 65997-17-3


Borosilicate has a C.O.E. of 33 C.O.E. stands for "Coefficient Of thermal Expansion" This is how far the glass expands and contracts when heated and cooled. The low c.o.e. 33 makes borosilicate a hard glass that breaks off in shards instead of powder and dust.

Soft glass has a C.O.E of 90-96 The C.O.E. 90-96 has a much larger rate of expansion which makes it a soft glass and breaks off in small pieces, small dust, and fine particulates when broken.

Quartz C.O.E. of 1.6 is the strongest of the glass and has barely any expansion when heated or cooled.

So borosilicate glass is a noncrystalline solid when it is in it's solid glass form but as soon as you start grinding and sanding it, it turns into crystalline silica. The MSDS you posted its for a product that comes as filtered fragments and powders so the fine dust particulates are not present (unless you kick up dust with the powders).

I'm posting the proper MSDS for borosilicate glass tubing and rod from corning again and another one from a scientific lab that produces scientific borosilicate bottle tops there is a part in the MSDS in regards to borosilicate if it is being ground or generating small glass particles.

If you go down to Section 8 - Exposure Controls / Personal Protection on the Corning Borosilicate MSDS link you will see that anything over the recommended exposure limits is not healthy. The only way to hit the proper exposure limits is in a properly ventilated room.

Corning Borosilicate MSDS

Ritekem MSDS

If doing any type of glass grinding you need to be in a proper ventilated room, wearing a fine particulate respirator, and it wouldn't hurt to use water to keep the dust levels low.

Breathing any type of glass particles is very dangerous and it to be avoided at all costs.

Lever


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Borosilicate has a C.O.E. of 33 C.O.E. stands for "Coefficient Of thermal Expansion" This is how far the glass expands and contracts when heated and cooled. The low c.o.e. 33 makes borosilicate a hard glass that breaks off in shards instead of powder and dust.
> 
> Soft glass has a C.O.E of 90-96 The C.O.E. 90-96 has a much larger rate of expansion which makes it a soft glass and breaks off in small pieces, small dust, and fine particulates when broken.
> 
> Quartz C.O.E. of 1.6 is the strongest of the glass and has barely any expansion when heated or cooled.
> 
> So borosilicate glass is a noncrystalline solid when it is in it's solid glass form but as soon as you start grinding and sanding it, it turns into crystalline silica. The MSDS you posted its for a product that comes as filtered fragments and powders so the fine dust particulates are not present (unless you kick up dust with the powders).
> 
> I'm posting the proper MSDS for borosilicate glass tubing and rod from corning again and another one from a scientific lab that produces scientific borosilicate bottle tops there is a part in the MSDS in regards to borosilicate if it is being ground or generating small glass particles.
> 
> 
> 
> If you go down to Section 8 - Exposure Controls / Personal Protection on the Corning Borosilicate MSDS link you will see that anything over the recommended exposure limits is not healthy. The only way to hit the proper exposure limits is in a properly ventilated room.
> 
> Corning Borosilicate MSDS
> 
> Ritekem MSDS
> 
> If doing any type of glass grinding you need to be in a proper ventilated room, wearing a fine particulate respirator, and it wouldn't hurt to use water to keep the dust levels low.
> 
> Breathing any type of glass particles is very dangerous and it to be avoided at all costs.
> 
> Lever


Thanks--that's why you're the expert on glass







I'm guessing turkeys as well


----------



## lever2stacks

@iamjanco Those turkeys are mean they will attack you if you don't keep an eye on them.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> @iamjanco Those turkeys are mean they will attack you if you don't keep an eye on them.


Lol. When I lived further north on the border by the St. Lawrence, wild turkey visits were a dime a dozen. They'd flock though if you tried to approach them. The problem with your turkeys is they're domesticated.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Those turkey's would be nice plucked and fried lol


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Borosilicate has a C.O.E. of 33 C.O.E. stands for "Coefficient Of thermal Expansion" This is how far the glass expands and contracts when heated and cooled. The low c.o.e. 33 makes borosilicate a hard glass that breaks off in shards instead of powder and dust.
> 
> Soft glass has a C.O.E of 90-96 The C.O.E. 90-96 has a much larger rate of expansion which makes it a soft glass and breaks off in small pieces, small dust, and fine particulates when broken.
> 
> Quartz C.O.E. of 1.6 is the strongest of the glass and has barely any expansion when heated or cooled.
> 
> So borosilicate glass is a noncrystalline solid when it is in it's solid glass form but as soon as you start grinding and sanding it, it turns into crystalline silica. The MSDS you posted its for a product that comes as filtered fragments and powders so the fine dust particulates are not present (unless you kick up dust with the powders).
> 
> I'm posting the proper MSDS for borosilicate glass tubing and rod from corning again and another one from a scientific lab that produces scientific borosilicate bottle tops there is a part in the MSDS in regards to borosilicate if it is being ground or generating small glass particles.
> 
> If you go down to Section 8 - Exposure Controls / Personal Protection on the Corning Borosilicate MSDS link you will see that anything over the recommended exposure limits is not healthy. The only way to hit the proper exposure limits is in a properly ventilated room.
> 
> Corning Borosilicate MSDS
> 
> Ritekem MSDS
> 
> If doing any type of glass grinding you need to be in a proper ventilated room, wearing a fine particulate respirator, and it wouldn't hurt to use water to keep the dust levels low.
> 
> 
> 
> Breathing any type of glass particles is very dangerous and it to be avoided at all costs.
> 
> Lever


FTFY

unless it is for medicinal use


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Do you mind if I ask you why you want to convert your PWM fans to 3 pin? You can control PWM fans perfectly fine without changing the connector.


the idea is to have a overdesigned colling system, then link the fans directly to the power supply and run them at a constant 5 or 7V (not sure if I can go as low as 5, need to check once the system is running).
set and forget sort of system.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> the idea is to have a overdesigned colling system, then link the fans directly to the power supply and run them at a constant 5 or 7V (not sure if I can go as low as 5, need to check once the system is running).
> set and forget sort of system.


I understand that, but you don't need to have 3-pin fans to do that. Just do a simple molex to fan adapter and run them like that. If you are going to limit each fan on a certain voltage then a fan controller or a resistor for each fan (unsure how a single resistor spread out over several fans would work) would be the best solution.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I understand that, but you don't need to have 3-pin fans to do that. Just do a simple molex to fan adapter and run them like that. If you are going to limit each fan on a certain voltage then a fan controller or a resistor for each fan (unsure how a single resistor spread out over several fans would work) would be the best solution.


yup, but with your solution you would need a resistor for each fan. midly inconvenient.
if you connect a simple fan controller (NZXT Grid 1st generation) to one molex to 3 pin, you can change all the fans voltage by changing where the molex connects, as shown below


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> The modmesh should be here in a few days, Ill take my calipers out and get a good measurement on em and report back.


So I measured the new Modmesh cablemod's and they are in fact 3.1mm just as the CM rep stated. Unfortunately MNPCtech's claim that their Cablecombs fit all 3mm-4mm psu cables is Incorrect. They snap on the wire but then just as @ Revan654 said
they just slide up and down the cable which is unfortunate. I guess its back to disposable/breakable cable combs for me


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> yup, but with your solution you would need a resistor for each fan. midly inconvenient.
> if you connect a simple fan controller (NZXT Grid 1st generation) to one molex to 3 pin, you can change all the fans voltage by changing where the molex connects, as shown below


I completely agree, but the Grid mkI is a fan HUB and not a controller. Threre is nothing inherently wrong with that, it's just a different thing. There are also other fan hubs that does the same thing without being limited to 3pin connectors. For the same price you could also get a half way decent fan controller which would let you set individual fan speeds for where some fans may handle 5v but other may only have 6v or 7v.

Take a look at some of swiftech and Aquacomputers (thinking about theSplitty9 and not the Aquaaero) offerings for fan hubs. As for fan controllers, NZXT has some OK ones and Phobya has some that deliver a LOT of power for the money.

That's just what I would do, but you are free to choose whatever you want no matter what I think about it.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I completely agree, but the Grid mkI is a fan HUB and not a controller. Threre is nothing inherently wrong with that, it's just a different thing. There are also other fan hubs that does the same thing without being limited to 3pin connectors. For the same price you could also get a half way decent fan controller which would let you set individual fan speeds for where some fans may handle 5v but other may only have 6v or 7v.
> 
> Take a look at some of swiftech and Aquacomputers (thinking about theSplitty9 and not the Aquaaero) offerings for fan hubs. As for fan controllers, NZXT has some OK ones and Phobya has some that deliver a LOT of power for the money.
> 
> That's just what I would do, but you are free to choose whatever you want no matter what I think about it.


Thank you for the input! turns out the Grid I I got used on ebay doesn't work, so I'll definitely look into the options you mentioned. thanks again


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> Thank you for the input! turns out the Grid I I got used on ebay doesn't work, so I'll definitely look into the options you mentioned. thanks again


Another cheap option would be to get one of Nanoxias fan splitters (they are sleeved decent quality cables and they offer anything for 3 fans to 9 fan splitters), and then if you can't get your hands on a 4pin to molex then just get a 3 pin and change the female fan connector for a housing that is wide enough for 4pin (or just use scissors to cut the housing so that it will fit).


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Another cheap option would be to get one of Nanoxias fan splitters (they are sleeved decent quality cables and they offer anything for 3 fans to 9 fan splitters), and then if you can't get your hands on a 4pin to molex then just get a 3 pin and change the female fan connector for a housing that is wide enough for 4pin (or just use scissors to cut the housing so that it will fit).


the Splitty9 is incredibly ugly. my case (UMX4) has tempered glass on both sides, so I am trying to get something that will look pretty even it goes on the back. the Nanoxias are a cool option, but they are practically identical to the NZXT Grid and that one looks very good with the three dim lights.
do you know a pretty fan controller where I can dial in a set voltage? 3 or 4 pin, don't care


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> the Splitty9 is incredibly ugly. my case (UMX4) has tempered glass on both sides, so I am trying to get something that will look pretty even it goes on the back. the Nanoxias are a cool option, but they are practically identical to the NZXT Grid and that one looks very good with the three dim lights.
> do you know a pretty fan controller where I can dial in a set voltage? 3 or 4 pin, don't care


Most fan controllers would be 5.25" bays. As for hiding stuff... I have no clue as to what case you have, but it shouldn't be that difficult to hide a small PCB like the splitty9. Also... How is it ugly? it's just a PCB like any other in the case, bother the VGA and the motherboards will be showing stuff anyway (Or I guess you can get away from that with "thermal armor" and a VGA backplate). There isn't really a whole lot of products that fit with what you want to do though. As for the Nanoxia cables, I could have sworn those where 4pin... anyway, you should be able to find other fan cables that are made for PWM fans without any real issue.

For the most part though, anything past the cables, the Splitty9 and Grid MkI (which is discontinued) most modern fan splitters will have a lead that goes back to the motherboard either in the form of a PWM signal or a USB controller. It's just getting more and more difficult to voltage control stuff, since most people want PWM these days.

Though that also means less people want regular controllers and hubs these days which means you can find some decent buys in the bargain bin.


----------



## Bosnian Man1ak

Looking to buy a 1080 TI and a water loop currently with just the standard corsir water cooled loop on the AMD fx 9590 CPU but looking for something to start building off of the graphics card CPU and radiators I got everything else but the rad and the loop


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane is only needed if you are using an aquacomputer pressure sensor MPS to monitor the water level in your reservoir.
> 
> The MPS sensor should be located below, and connected to, the bottom of the reservoir via the low port on the MPS sensor.
> 
> In order to compensate for over pressure in the reservoir, the high port on the sensor should be connected to the top of the reservoir.
> 
> The connection between the high port and the reservoir top can be accomplished by leaving the high port open to atmosphere, and installing the pressure equalization membrane fitting to the reservoir top.


not sure why you think this??? I use it in my reservoirs IF the res is NOT the highest point in the loop. It evens out the pressures and prevents leaks. Its NOT an aquatuning only product.


----------



## badtaylorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane is only needed if you are using an aquacomputer pressure sensor MPS to monitor the water level in your reservoir.
> 
> The MPS sensor should be located below, and connected to, the bottom of the reservoir via the low port on the MPS sensor.
> 
> In order to compensate for over pressure in the reservoir, the high port on the sensor should be connected to the top of the reservoir.
> 
> The connection between the high port and the reservoir top can be accomplished by leaving the high port open to atmosphere, and installing the pressure equalization membrane fitting to the reservoir top.


not sure why you think this??? I use it in my reservoirs IF the res is NOT the highest point in the loop. It evens out the pressures and prevents leaks. Its NOT an aquatuning only product.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Hey,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> not sure why you think this??? I use it in my reservoirs IF the res is NOT the highest point in the loop. It evens out the pressures and prevents leaks. Its NOT an aquatuning only product.


My reply...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane is only needed if you are using an aquacomputer pressure sensor MPS to monitor the water level in your reservoir.
> 
> The MPS sensor should be located below, and connected to, the bottom of the reservoir via the low port on the MPS sensor.
> 
> In order to compensate for over pressure in the reservoir, the high port on the sensor should be connected to the top of the reservoir.
> 
> The connection between the high port and the reservoir top can be accomplished by leaving the high port open to atmosphere, and installing the pressure equalization membrane fitting to the reservoir top.


was in response to the second part of Revan's question:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: I have two air exhaust fittings. Is it worth installing them? I was going to add a three way fittings with a passthrough. The exhaust fitting would be located outside the case.
> 
> Also I have some aquacomputer pressure equalization membrane, I have no room on my res due to fittings. Can these be installed else where in the loop or should I just forget about this type of fitting?


My comments were taken directly from the MPS pressure/level sensor manual, except I eff'd up and flipped the high/low port connections.
If you feel more comfortable running your reservoir at ambient air pressure, then the pressure equalization membrane will do the job for sure


.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> Propane torch you can get this just about any hardware store in the plumbing department even Wal-Mart for much cheaper. It cost more to ship a flamable gas container.
> 
> I'm making the video right now sorry for the delay.


Ok, Thanks. looking forward to video. I really want to switch to glass. Since I'm not 100% sure my tubing is compatible with XT-1 Nuke. I know mayhem is suppose to be testing is at some point. Not sure how long the wait is going to be.

Plus it's unlikely to scratch up like some of tubing I have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> I've used Alphacool and Mayhems glass in my build.
> 
> I found Alphacool tighter to fit on my bitspower fittings. Maybe just the batch I got was a little thicker, I don't know. Glass has small variations in thickness along the length of the tube.
> 
> I cut mine with a diamond coated saw wheel for my dremel tool. Worked great. Then used another diamond saw wheel (solid) to chamfer the outside edge.
> 
> I regularly dipped the glass in water to reduce dust as I cut. Also wore goggles and a mask, but only a surgical mask. Sounds like maybe I should find a better mask, but there was very little dust if any with the water.
> 
> Curious to see the ends heat treated. I thought about it (like back in chemistry class) but I worried about the outside diameter bulging and getting too tight to fit in the fittings.
> 
> Either way, I'm very happy with the results. I love how clean it looks and looking forward to see how long my fluid color lasts.


I'm just wondering since AlphaCool glass tubing is much easier to get a hold of compared to Mayhem. Right now some of there tubing is sold out. Plus I want get some pre-bent tubing & no where in the US has the bent tubing by Mayhem.

Usually I use all protection when I use dremel. That little device can kick up some serious dust.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Ok, Thanks. looking forward to video. I really want to switch to glass. Since I'm not 100% sure my tubing is compatible with XT-1 Nuke. I know mayhem is suppose to be testing is at some point. Not sure how long the wait is going to be.


I posted the video yesterday it's right after the post that I quoted you in about the torch. http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/104680#post_26085431


----------



## nycgtr

Guys would 3mm acrylic be strong enough to vertical mount a reservoir on? Or would I need a thicker acrylic?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Guys would 3mm acrylic be strong enough to vertical mount a reservoir on? Or would I need a thicker acrylic?


13mm should be strong enough as long as the piece you use is short. Extended length will eventually warm and will show the effects from the pressure of gravity coupled with weight.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 13mm should be strong enough as long as the piece you use is short. Extended length will eventually warm and will show the effects from the pressure of gravity coupled with weight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I assume that was supposed to be 3mm and not 13mm (13mm would be able to hold the case if done in short runs), but other than that I have to agree with you. Personally I would go up to 5mm acrylic just to be sure, or just make sure it's stiffened off in the middle of the run, but it all depends on the reservoir he will be using and as you said how long the run will be.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I assume that was supposed to be 3mm and not 13mm (13mm would be able to hold the case if done in short runs), but other than that I have to agree with you. Personally I would go up to 5mm acrylic just to be sure, or just make sure it's stiffened off in the middle of the run, but it all depends on the reservoir he will be using and as you said how long the run will be.


So my plan was to mount two reservoirs onto a piece of acrilyc each one being 250ml. I considered I may need to use some metal bars to reinforce my mounting points. Getting thicker acrylic wouldn't be hard just wanted to get an idea of how thick I should go. Thanks.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> So my plan was to mount two reservoirs onto a piece of acrilyc each one being 250ml. I considered I may need to use some metal bars to reinforce my mounting points. Getting thicker acrylic wouldn't be hard just wanted to get an idea of how thick I should go. Thanks.


getting something 5mm+ should be able to hold that without any real issues, If you are overly worried you can always just add another screw in the middle of the run to act as a "post" and alleviate some of the weight. Keep in mind that if you want to mount the acrylic on to the wall of your case (or something like that) bending the ends and so on would add more strength to it as well.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> getting something 5mm+ should be able to hold that without any real issues, If you are overly worried you can always just add another screw in the middle of the run to act as a "post" and alleviate some of the weight. Keep in mind that if you want to mount the acrylic on to the wall of your case (or something like that) bending the ends and so on would add more strength to it as well.




So the plan is where I cut out the bay drive area on this primo was to mount a panel flush with the motherboard plate. I have a huge acrylic shop near my workplace so buying any kind or thickness of acrylic is not an issue. I was planning on attaching that plate to the tabs of the mobo plate on the edges and then mounting my 2 reservoirs on there. Since the acrylic will not be transparent, it is possible if necessary to add a reinforcement on the back. I would just make an entirely new mobo plate but I don't have the tools or the space to do so. Nyc living lol. I guess I could make one out of acrylic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> @ lever2stacks:
> So if I get you correctly... you as a glass pro wouldn't recommend to anyone just buying prebent glass tubing, cut it to length, sand the edges, put it in that fittings and call it a day because of possible microfractures that can end up catastrophic in someones build? Is it always essential (in sense of safety) to get the stress out of the glass by putting it into a kiln and anneal it? Or only if you are sanding the glass? If so: is slightly melting the edges with a torch a safe way without using a kiln?
> 
> I just want to get sure about that because I was thinking about going with glass tubing some day and got a little afraid of what you were writing.
> 
> Thank you for your advices and the efforts you are willing to do with your videos and your offer to help people out with their tubings! +REP


I scored and snapped mine with a diamond wheel,I also dressed the edges with the same wheel.
No breaks so far.

The only concern for me is swelling/deformation at the heat treated end that would prohibit use with close tolerance fittings.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> So the plan is where I cut out the bay drive area on this primo was to mount a panel flush with the motherboard plate. I have a huge acrylic shop near my workplace so buying any kind or thickness of acrylic is not an issue. I was planning on attaching that plate to the tabs of the mobo plate on the edges and then mounting my 2 reservoirs on there. Since the acrylic will not be transparent, it is possible if necessary to add a reinforcement on the back. I would just make an entirely new mobo plate but I don't have the tools or the space to do so. Nyc living lol. I guess I could make one out of acrylic


I see... I'm actually planning to do something similar in the "near" future, ripping out that fugly drivebay and filling in the space with bent acrylic to follow the curve of the motherboard tray and PSU shroud. I'm going to mount my reservoir on top of a custom fan grill that I will place on my bottom 480mm radiator, so the fitting method will be somewhat different.

Still, if you can get something thicker for that backplate then I would really do so since 3mm or even 5mm may be a bit thin considering the length of it. As long as price doesn't grow exponentially past 5mm then I would go for something closer to 8mm simply because of added security, though 5mm is probably going to be OK. Considering the weight you will be adding to that plate, I would also opt for using some steel L brackets to fit it to the case frame. That should give it enough strength for that sort of thing.

Edit: totally forgot you would have mounting points on the motherboard tray to, so 8mm would be excessive. 5mm would be the sweet spot though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, I see now. You are thinking panel to fill the huge opening of the front of the case. Yes 3mm should be fine for multiple mounting points. Bad for a single point. The weight of the reservoirs would crack the panel in no time.

Personally I would go 5mm. Because movement would eventually stress whatever point mounting system you use at 3mm.









But have you considered a steel plate solution? I recently picked up a panel of 22ga steel sheet for ~$15. A piece of that thickness for the front of your case would be ~$6.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycgtr

Well a cut piece rectangle shaped 9mm acrylic that I'd have to work down to fit that area would be about 20 bucks from the shop. I originally considered using metal. However, I would have to build some ghetto bender setup. Living in an apt in nyc makes it quite difficult to do a lot of garage setup styled work, and metal shops around here really have no interest in bending panels for you unless you want to pay for it like it's a big job.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay, I see now. You are thinking panel to fill the huge opening of the front of the case. Yes 3mm should be fine for multiple mounting points. Bad for a single point. The weight of the reservoirs would crack the panel in no time.
> 
> Personally I would go 5mm. Because movement would eventually stress whatever point mounting system you use at 3mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But have you considered a steel plate solution? I recently picked up a panel of 22ga steel sheet for ~$15. A piece of that thickness for the front of your case would be ~$6.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


K now that I looked into it the steel sheet sounds a very good idea LOL. I've never cut or bent sheets of metal. I do have a dremel so it's doable. Alright I guess i will be trying with metal. Would this thickness be acceptable to do a whole new motherboard plate with?


----------



## Hello Man

Hey guys!

Just found this thread and thought I would add my in progress rig to the lot!




It is an 800d with aging hardware as follows:

The loop:
-Swiftech MCP35x with an XSPC acrylic top
-Watercool Heatkiller GTX 680 hole edition
-Swiftech Apogee HD
-Some primo chill LRT tube in white
-Phobya Balancer 150
-Primochill clear coolant that I am considering dying at some point
-XSPC EX360

Rig:
-FX8350 at 4.5GHZ
-GTX 670 GC V2 (Galaxy), soon to be replaced by an EVGA 780 Ti SC with a Swiftech Hydro Copper block
-16GB 1600 MHZ DDR3
-ASUS M5A99X Evo R2.0
-A (dare I say) Huntkey X7 900W, maybe the only good PSU they ever made, which actually rocks (if you need convincing as I did, look it up)
-1 320GB WD Green for games
-1 250GB Kingston SSD
-2x3TB Seagate drives in raid 1 for my photos and video footage

That is about it!

EDIT: More Pix


----------



## Hello Man

What do you guys think about removing the basement drive cage in the 800D? I can't really put it back if I do, but it will look a whole lot better I presume.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

The first thing I do with a new case is take out all the drive cages. Unless they are full of drives, they are just clutter IMHO.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Okay, I see now. You are thinking panel to fill the huge opening of the front of the case. Yes 3mm should be fine for multiple mounting points. Bad for a single point. The weight of the reservoirs would crack the panel in no time.
> 
> Personally I would go 5mm. Because movement would eventually stress whatever point mounting system you use at 3mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But have you considered a steel plate solution? I recently picked up a panel of 22ga steel sheet for ~$15. A piece of that thickness for the front of your case would be ~$6.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> K now that I looked into it the steel sheet sounds a very good idea LOL. I've never cut or bent sheets of metal. I do have a dremel so it's doable. Alright I guess i will be trying with metal. Would this thickness be acceptable to do a whole new motherboard plate with?
Click to expand...

It would. I am replacing the MB tray of my 932 with acrylic/plexi. But 22ga steel sheet is similar to the steel I am replacing. I got the sheet to panel the top front and back of the 932, rather than overspending for plexi panels for more than the MB tray and exterior top front and bottom panels. Easier to cut for size as well. I can fine tune the edges with a file to get the fitment issues sorted without worrying about chipping cracking or just plain breaking the piece(s) I am working with.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It would. I am replacing the MB tray of my 932 with acrylic/plexi. But 22ga steel sheet is similar to the steel I am replacing. I got the sheet to panel the top front and back of the 932, rather than overspending for plexi panels for more than the MB tray and exterior top front and bottom panels. Easier to cut for size as well. I can fine tune the edges with a file to get the fitment issues sorted without worrying about chipping cracking or just plain breaking the piece(s) I am working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I've been cutting all my acrylic with a dremel scroll saw and it works great for the most part. I think it should handle 22ga steel.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It would. I am replacing the MB tray of my 932 with acrylic/plexi. But 22ga steel sheet is similar to the steel I am replacing. I got the sheet to panel the top front and back of the 932, rather than overspending for plexi panels for more than the MB tray and exterior top front and bottom panels. Easier to cut for size as well. I can fine tune the edges with a file to get the fitment issues sorted without worrying about chipping cracking or just plain breaking the piece(s) I am working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been cutting all my acrylic with a dremel scroll saw and it works great for the most part. I think it should handle 22ga steel.
Click to expand...

What's nice about 22ga is that the rivets I am replacing will secure the interior panels without worries about the "added thickness" of the steel panels. They add roughly 1mm(+/-) of thickness and should be easily clamped by the rivets.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Hey,
> My reply...
> was in response to the second part of Revan's question:
> My comments were taken directly from the MPS pressure/level sensor manual, except I eff'd up and flipped the high/low port connections.
> If you feel more comfortable running your reservoir at ambient air pressure, then the pressure equalization membrane will do the job for sure
> 
> 
> .


That ship sailed awhile ago, Thanks anyways for the info. I just had some left over, I wasn't sure if I should use them or not. After I posted the comment, There would be no way I could get the tubing to where they were located at.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> Here's the video on how I cut and polish the ends on glass tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how I spin the glass back and forth to keep it heating the end evenly? That's so it doesn't just heat one spot and creates a very even and smooth end that slides right into fittings without any grease.
> 
> Lever


Thanks for the video.

I think you have some company


----------



## dwolvin

Cool vid- I didn't realize how thick the glass tubing was, that's not going to be fragile at all!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> That ship sailed awhile ago...


Agreed... but @badtaylorx asked why I said what I said, so I said why I said what I said


----------



## Hello Man

If you have a few extra $$ I am sure you could get a place with a plasma/laser cutter to do the heavy lifting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It would. I am replacing the MB tray of my 932 with acrylic/plexi. But 22ga steel sheet is similar to the steel I am replacing. I got the sheet to panel the top front and back of the 932, rather than overspending for plexi panels for more than the MB tray and exterior top front and bottom panels. Easier to cut for size as well. I can fine tune the edges with a file to get the fitment issues sorted without worrying about chipping cracking or just plain breaking the piece(s) I am working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Invest in some quality gloves mate. That steel will easily liberate the skin from your fingers! (Maybe some clamps would help too)


----------



## Ceadderman

Of course I havw a good pair of gloves. I took metal shop when I was in High School and then Ag Welding upon transferring to a new school, since they didn't have metal shop at the new school. Wish I had the few bucks to employ a plasma cutter. The guy across the street from me only has a grinder and I only have a Dremel. So all cuts will be made by hand, except for the holes I can use a step bit or drill bit for.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kostadinos

Just finished my loop . This is not the final product i am waiting 1070 and his block to do the final steps to my loop


----------



## pc-illiterate

i am still amazed at the amount of people who erroneously think that a closed loop builds pressure when the bubbles hit the res during bleeding. there is no pressure increase. also, leaving the res cap open to vent loop air does not work either. whatever air that is pushed from the rads and blocks to the res is just taking up space in the res that the water was taking up just as the water is now taking up the space the air was using.

those pressure equalizers are for water temp variations. as water heats, it expands thus increasing pressure in the loop. when the water cools, it contracts. those valves allow air to be pushed out as the water expands and lets air back in when the water contracts to keep the pressure in the loop the same.

also tell ceadder that a pump does not suck. i think he forgets every time he hears it.

posts from a month ago getting correct info.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> also tell ceadder that a pump does not suck. i think he forgets every time he hears it.


There are sucking pumps, and at least one in use in this industry too (be quiet! Silent Loop AIOs).


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There are sucking pumps, and at least one in use in this industry too (be quiet! Silent Loop AIOs).


not a ddc or d5 and especially an lt that we use in a custom loop. other pumps suck too but we dont use them in custom water cooling loops.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> not a ddc or d5 and especially an lt that we use in a custom loop. other pumps suck too but we dont use them in custom water cooling loops.


There is a difference between sucking and priming.

All pumps suck on inlet _once primed_,there are a few pumps that do not need priming,normally diaphragm/piston types, but these are not normally used in our enduse.
It would be more fitting to say we dont use self priming pumps rather than use 'sucking' as a description.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Just finished my loop . This is not the final product i am waiting 1070 and his block to do the final steps to my loop


his block? I thought all builds were girls. Just kidding


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Just finished my loop . This is not the final product i am waiting 1070 and his block to do the final steps to my loop
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> his block? *I thought all builds were girls*. Just kidding
Click to expand...

That one looks pretty butch to me . . . .


----------



## Ceadderman

Apparently someone got out of the OCD side of the bed this morning.









If I misused the word (I didn't cause I don't know which post is being referenced) then, my bad. But I don't recall using the term in regard to how a watercooling pump works.









What's it matter? I try to be layman friendly. Not put them to sleep with technical decriptive terms that confuse them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yukss

edit


----------



## Rdoxey

Hi Everyone

So decide to share a really beautiful build I have been working on for a few weeks and finally at the point were it is ready to show you all what I have done.

I had done a lot of prep work before beginning this build. I wanted something small but super unique and not a lot of people out there seem to have.

So when it came to the case I found Antec Cube by EKWB case seem to fit the build and were I wanted to go with. Super Unique and not a lot of people out there have builds like it.

Here are the specs.

CPU: Intel 7600k
Motherboard: Asus Maximus Impact VIII
Memory:G.Skill - Trident Z 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Storage: Samsung 750 250GB SSD
Storage: Samsung 750 2 X 500GB SSD RAID 0
Storage: Samsung 850 1TB SSD
GPU: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Strix OC Video Card
Power Supply: SeaSonic - PRIME 850W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Fans: 3 X Scythe - Gentle Typhoon 57.7 CFM 120mm Fan Black Edition PWM
PSU Cables are custom
Operating System: Windows 10 Pro

Name of Build: The Mighty Little DarkStar

Here are few pics of it lit up. I will add as I get them but hopefully this gives you a idea.





Also you can find the completed build on PCPartpicker at https://pcpartpicker.com/b/NBcYcf

Enjoy


----------



## taowulf

And here I was just thinking that there was not enough reverse-ATX/ITX and so on in the world.


----------



## pc-illiterate

ddc and d5 dont suck water into them and you know that b. if they did, youd be ablee to put a pump at the highest point in the loop. flip the case so the pump is low. once its primed and running, flip it up so the pump is at the high point in the loop. it would still be pushing water. that doesnt happen. thats the entire reason a res sits over the pump and assures the pump doesnt run dry not , get it pumping and it will be fine. show me otherwise please so i can build a crazy looking loop.

ceadder, put me back on ignore. you feel better when you think youre right. you didnt misuse the word. you said pumps suck. put me on ignore like you said you were going to.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ddc and d5 dont suck water into them and you know that b. if they did, youd be ablee to put a pump at the highest point in the loop. flip the case so the pump is low. once its primed and running, flip it up so the pump is at the high point in the loop. it would still be pushing water. that doesnt happen. thats the entire reason a res sits over the pump and assures the pump doesnt run dry not , get it pumping and it will be fine. show me otherwise please so i can build a crazy looking loop.
> 
> ceadder, put me back on ignore. you feel better when you think youre right. you didnt misuse the word. you said pumps suck. put me on ignore like you said you were going to.


so much negativity for nothing. he expressed his opinions humbling, apologising if he was wrong. Guess we are ignoring you.

EK is taking forever to ship my package















I'm so looking forward to build my first loop


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ddc and d5 dont suck water into them and you know that b. if they did, youd be ablee to put a pump at the highest point in the loop. flip the case so the pump is low. once its primed and running, flip it up so the pump is at the high point in the loop. it would still be pushing water. *that doesnt happen.* thats the entire reason a res sits over the pump and assures the pump doesnt run dry not , get it pumping and it will be fine. show me otherwise please so i can build a crazy looking loop.
> 
> ceadder, put me back on ignore. you feel better when you think youre right. you didnt misuse the word. you said pumps suck. put me on ignore like you said you were going to.


It does. Once primed,you can run your pump anywhere except pump top side down. The res before pump thing is for simple pump safety and convenience on filling.

If you have a volume of water being pumped,as long as there is no air in the fluid,for every unit of fluid pumped there will be a corresponding suction of fluid from the inlet to replace it, this is basic hydraulics as the fluids are incompressable.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ddc and d5 dont suck water into them and you know that b. if they did, youd be ablee to put a pump at the highest point in the loop. flip the case so the pump is low. once its primed and running, flip it up so the pump is at the high point in the loop. it would still be pushing water. that doesnt happen. thats the entire reason a res sits over the pump and assures the pump doesnt run dry not , get it pumping and it will be fine. show me otherwise please so i can build a crazy looking loop.
> 
> ceadder, put me back on ignore. you feel better when you think youre right. you didnt misuse the word. you said pumps suck. put me on ignore like you said you were going to.


some pumps do suck once primed here's one I was contemplating using for a sub zero PC build 80w 24v sucking up from one bucket to another bit of a ghetto setup was a PITA to prime
sometimes it just takes the smallest air lock to stop them sucking probably why you cant tip a pc upside down while running expecting it to keep sucking
next time you are drinking with a straw put a pin hole above the liquid level then try suck a drink

http://www.overclock.net/t/1514355/speck-my2-8000/0_20

yes there are centrifugal pumps that are self priming but they are simply huge and rated in Kw
mono and air pumps are the most common self priming pumps which all of I deal with on a daily basis


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ddc and d5 dont suck water into them and you know that b. if they did, youd be ablee to put a pump at the highest point in the loop. flip the case so the pump is low. once its primed and running, flip it up so the pump is at the high point in the loop. it would still be pushing water. that doesnt happen. thats the entire reason a res sits over the pump and assures the pump doesnt run dry not , get it pumping and it will be fine. show me otherwise please so i can build a crazy looking loop.
> 
> ceadder, put me back on ignore. you feel better when you think youre right. you didnt misuse the word. you said pumps suck. put me on ignore like you said you were going to.


Sure they do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> The impellers still have blades of course, they are just covered.
> 
> This 'loop' isn't sealed and it works. Its a dual top but only one of the pumps is running.
> No gravity is feeding it, that's for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm standing on a chair to get more height but the cables aren't long enough to go higher. The base of the res is over a meter and a half below the pump.


----------



## fast_fate

nearly finished insulation...and setting up benching station.
Not sub-zero but close with coolant temp just under 3°C.

poor light for pics - sorry


----------



## Dortheleus

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry fellas. I don't know what inspired the guy to call me out. He knew that I had him iggied.

I would just like to know which post it was so I can review it. Maybe I misspoke or something.

What I do find funny is that someone quoted him and I saw that. He's still on my iggy list. I didn't put him there to "remain right". I put him there because of how he treats others in his mission to correct every little flipping detail. At times he is correct, but nobody deserves to be talked down to simply because of how they say something. Whether or not my verbage is correct, it's simply to pass on ideas. The passing on of ideas is why OCN exists imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> nearly finished insulation...and setting up benching station.
> Not sub-zero but close with coolant temp just under 3°C.
> 
> poor light for pics - sorry
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome







The only thing that's missing is the reef tank!

Not trying to give you ideas, mind you


----------



## Ceadderman

Indeed.

What are you planning Fate?









~Ceadder


----------



## clubbin09

here is my new build


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubbin09*
> 
> here is my new build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


the quality on this thing! super nice


----------



## clubbin09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> the quality on this thing! super nice


Thank you


----------



## nycgtr

Anyone here used primochill opaque grey? Can you take a pic if so. Looks purplish on the site.


----------



## c3LaL35

From my system


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> So I measured the new Modmesh cablemod's and they are in fact 3.1mm just as the CM rep stated. Unfortunately MNPCtech's claim that their Cablecombs fit all 3mm-4mm psu cables is Incorrect. They snap on the wire but then just as @ Revan654 said
> they just slide up and down the cable which is unfortunate. I guess its back to disposable/breakable cable combs for me


The sleeving OD has to be 3mm to 4mm. There combs are designed for MDPC-X or Teleios. I believe when MNPCTech say's 3 to 4 OD. There only talking about the sleeving not with the wiring inserted too. If you really want to get correct data your going have to unsleeve CableMod wire with there sleeving. My bet the sleeving will be 2mm. You only get the 3mm when the wiring & sleeving are together.

For example Teleios has an OD of 4mm.

MDPC-X vs CableMod "ModMesh" Sleeving


----------



## Ceadderman

Trust me, Bill takes those things into account. I'd be shocked as hades if he didn't.









~Ceadder


----------



## garyd9

A long time ago... around the turn of the century, I was into water cooling. Back then, we got automotive heater cores for radiators, used cut up tupperware as fan ducts, aquarium stores provided pumps, and water blocks were special order items. (Oh, and the tubing was usually medical grade stuff.) Those old special order water blocks didn't even have fins or grooves (just channels), and when the first block came out with "pins", I thought it was just a gimmick. (Okay, so I was wrong.) Then I got married, had kids, and air cooling was good enough.

Recently, I got a new case for my PC. After years of hiding my case under my desk, I decided to get some flashy. Some guys get red sports cars, but I already had a Mustang, so I got a PC case with windows and lights.







I got a Corsair 460X RGB. My Noctua air cooler looked horrible in the case, so I ran out and bought a Corsair H???i. It didn't work well, so I exchanged it for another. (Repeat twice more.) Eventually, I decided to just throw together a semi-custom loop with one of EK's "kits." In my "case" (pun intended), there's very little room, so I went with their slim 360 kit.

As I was being vain, I replaced the "MX" block with the acrylic/nickel EVO, and tossed in some white LEDs. The 4 visible fans are Corsair HD120's, and the slim 360 radiator is behind the front three (intake.) (I'm using custom software/hardware to control the HD120's.)

The little reservoir/pump is at the front/bottom, and all the shiny fittings in front of it are trying to route the tubing AND ensure I have a drain. Instead of a 3-way (Y) splitter, I'm using a quad-block and the extra opening has a temperature sensor plug.

Eventually, I want to replace the radiator with something that performs better. (hwlabs seems to have very highly rated slims, or perhaps an EK "PE".) I'd also like to replace the pump with something more powerful (for growth) and separate the reservoir (either move it to hang from the top of the case horizontally, vertically directly behind the radiator from the top of the case, or horizontally between the GFX card and P/S shroud.) I'll probably end up with a GPU block because... well... they look nice. (I really don't have any heat/noise problems with this GTX 1070, but... well, I did mention I was being vain.)

I'll stay with the soft tubing, however. I tend to mess with my hardware a lot (heh), and I'd prefer not to drain my loop every time I want to try a new TIM or something.

Sorry about the reflections in the image, but it's a PITA to take pictures of a glass case.



(link to google photos: https://goo.gl/photos/gs5ZFtymsfxveGWp9)

(Is there any way to directly link images to google photos instead of downloading them and re-uploading them to overclock.net?)

Take care
Gary


----------



## havoc315

Hey guys I'm building a new computer and I'm debating on what rad for my cpu, ram, and mobo so any help would be appreciated. Im running a skylake 6700k proc, two 3200 g.skill ram, two nvidia 1080ti's and gigabyte z170x Gaming G1 mobo with liquid cooling on it already...I'm liquid cooling all I just mentioned.
I will be putting the two gpus on one loop and the ram, motherboard, and cpu on another.
I already have 2 aquacomputer usb D5 pumps and a HW Labs black ice nemesis 420 GTX rad. I also have alphacool 360 and 280 but I'm wanting to replace the two alphacool because they won't fit and I'm wondering if I should go with the same HW lab rad I have for my gpus or go with one of these listed below, I will be overclocking everything and space isn't an issue I'll be using thermaltake..i know it isn't the best case but there tower 900 is large enough to fit everything I need without spending 1k on a case lol, next time I'll just make my own but for now this is what I have to work with.
Any help would be appreciated. FYI running dual 150mm monsoon res also. Also as you can tell from the picture I would like to have a 420 rad...but I'm open for suggestions if thats too much.
I'm using ekwb 1080ti waterblocks, ekwb monarch ram waterblock, and bitspower summit EF cpu waterblock, with the stock motherboard waterblock that have a diameter of 5-6mm at length of 170mm.


----------



## Sazexa

Going to try and get some photos this weekend. This one I took just sitting at my desk came out decent enough.


----------



## pc-illiterate

so the res directly before the pump rule is strictly for bleeding and trying to idiot proof. gives me some new loop variations to work with. thanks for putting up jackuson's video ash. wouldnt have really been much to believe without seeing it. fez, not really relevant to the conversation but good luck with that though.
b, without some visual to back that up, i wouldve just laughed at you. im sure ive never seen a loop with the pump at the highest point. theres gotta be a reason, not. does the pump have to keep running to keep its prime or can the pump be shut off in a closed loop?

hrockh, i dont care what you do. you dont have a single clue. go about your business.


----------



## Deeptek




----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Going to try and get some photos this weekend. This one I took just sitting at my desk came out decent enough.


It looks very good! But it must be hard to photograph a build like that when it has 3 sides with tempered glass and a bunch of LEDs.


----------



## lever2stacks

Finished running the loop tonight all Borosilicate glass for the tubing.







Lever


----------



## motor sw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> Finished running the loop tonight all Borosilicate glass for the tubing.
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3035309/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3035310/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3035307/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3035308/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3035305/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3035306/width/500/height/1000
> 
> Lever


Oh man! That looks Epic


----------



## pete424

It really does look awesome. Is the interior of your case red?


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> so the res directly before the pump rule is strictly for bleeding and trying to idiot proof. gives me some new loop variations to work with. thanks for putting up jackuson's video ash. wouldnt have really been much to believe without seeing it. fez, not really relevant to the conversation but good luck with that though.
> b, without some visual to back that up, i wouldve just laughed at you. im sure ive never seen a loop with the pump at the highest point. theres gotta be a reason, not. does the pump have to keep running to keep its prime or can the pump be shut off in a closed loop?
> 
> hrockh, i dont care what you do. you dont have a single clue. go about your business.


as long as there is no air in a loop the pump will always pump think of a AIO the pump/block can be at the top rad at the bottom
I would just say it more practical to have pump and reservoir at the bottom but then again a reservoir isn't even required.

I gave up on http://www.overclock.net/t/1533164/the-24-7-sub-zero-liquid-chillbox-club/0_20 just too impractical and hardware has come a long way since


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

This. Same as is the case with many bay-res setups - often they are placed in the highest 5.25 bays with most of the loop below/behind them...

I always put my pumps at the bottom but simply because it's easier to run a drain off from there in most builds - but as long as there's no chance for a void in the fluid... shouldn't matter where it is.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> It looks very good! But it must be hard to photograph a build like that when it has 3 sides with tempered glass and a bunch of LEDs.


Thanks! Only two sides are glass, but it is definitely difficult lol


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Going to try and get some photos this weekend. This one I took just sitting at my desk came out decent enough.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


do your laundry so it stops photobombing.









btw look great besides.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> A long time ago... around the turn of the century, I was into water cooling. Back then, we got automotive heater cores for radiators, used cut up tupperware as fan ducts, aquarium stores provided pumps, and water blocks were special order items. (Oh, and the tubing was usually medical grade stuff.) Those old special order water blocks didn't even have fins or grooves (just channels), and when the first block came out with "pins", I thought it was just a gimmick. (Okay, so I was wrong.) Then I got married, had kids, and air cooling was good enough.
> 
> Recently, I got a new case for my PC. After years of hiding my case under my desk, I decided to get some flashy. Some guys get red sports cars, but I already had a Mustang, so I got a PC case with windows and lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a Corsair 460X RGB. My Noctua air cooler looked horrible in the case, so I ran out and bought a Corsair H???i. It didn't work well, so I exchanged it for another. (Repeat twice more.) Eventually, I decided to just throw together a semi-custom loop with one of EK's "kits." In my "case" (pun intended), there's very little room, so I went with their slim 360 kit.
> 
> As I was being vain, I replaced the "MX" block with the acrylic/nickel EVO, and tossed in some white LEDs. The 4 visible fans are Corsair HD120's, and the slim 360 radiator is behind the front three (intake.) (I'm using custom software/hardware to control the HD120's.)
> 
> The little reservoir/pump is at the front/bottom, and all the shiny fittings in front of it are trying to route the tubing AND ensure I have a drain. Instead of a 3-way (Y) splitter, I'm using a quad-block and the extra opening has a temperature sensor plug.
> 
> Eventually, I want to replace the radiator with something that performs better. (hwlabs seems to have very highly rated slims, or perhaps an EK "PE".) I'd also like to replace the pump with something more powerful (for growth) and separate the reservoir (either move it to hang from the top of the case horizontally, vertically directly behind the radiator from the top of the case, or horizontally between the GFX card and P/S shroud.) I'll probably end up with a GPU block because... well... they look nice. (I really don't have any heat/noise problems with this GTX 1070, but... well, I did mention I was being vain.)
> 
> I'll stay with the soft tubing, however. I tend to mess with my hardware a lot (heh), and I'd prefer not to drain my loop every time I want to try a new TIM or something.
> 
> Sorry about the reflections in the image, but it's a PITA to take pictures of a glass case.
> 
> 
> 
> (link to google photos: https://goo.gl/photos/gs5ZFtymsfxveGWp9)
> 
> (Is there any way to directly link images to google photos instead of downloading them and re-uploading them to overclock.net?)
> 
> Take care
> Gary


Well, welcome back







do you happen to have any pictures of your old loops? I would be super interested to have a look at them!
Not sure about linking an entire Google album, but if you open the image on a separate tab from G Photos (URL should finish with .jpg) you can copy and paste the link & add the BB code. The photos would then work.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> so the res directly before the pump rule is strictly for bleeding and trying to idiot proof. gives me some new loop variations to work with. thanks for putting up jackuson's video ash. wouldnt have really been much to believe without seeing it. fez, not really relevant to the conversation but good luck with that though.
> b, without some visual to back that up, i wouldve just laughed at you. im sure ive never seen a loop with the pump at the highest point. theres gotta be a reason, not. does the pump have to keep running to keep its prime or can the pump be shut off in a closed loop?
> 
> hrockh, i dont care what you do. you dont have a single clue. go about your business.


No probs. I haven't tested it beyond super short distances, nothing like Jakusonfires vid, but as far as I know you can shut off the pump in a closed loop. For the water in the pump keeping it primed to go anywhere air has to get in somehow.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> In order to prevent tarnishing on the inside of the water block channels it is highly recommended to balance the pH levels of your coolant. We discourage the use of copper (II) sulfate based coolants (common trade names are Nuke Cu and Biocide Cu) and highly recommend the use of a corrosion- and biological growth inhibiting coolants such as EK-Ekoolant or other market proven cooling liquids.


Source, https://www.ekwb.com/blog/does-copper-oxidation-have-any-impact-on-cooling-performance/

FYI.


----------



## snef

start receiving some item for future project and just love Watercool's stuff


----------



## Jsunn

Finally got my GPU watercooled.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> start receiving some item for future project and just love Watercool's stuff
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> img]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3035440/[/img]


That is a gorgeous res, I ordered one 3 months ago, can't wait for it to arrive !!


----------



## Yukss

new toy. gtx 1080 and ek WB


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> This. Same as is the case with many bay-res setups - often they are placed in the highest 5.25 bays with most of the loop below/behind them...
> 
> I always put my pumps at the bottom but simply because it's easier to run a drain off from there in most builds - but as long as there's no chance for a void in the fluid... shouldn't matter where it is.


Exactly.

Two bay res come to mind. Kool ancestors and EK. Both top down orientation. Those "suck".

But then again I have no clue about what I am referring to. Which is why my name is absent from the list in what I assume was the last post from him on the subject.









Gotta get coolant cycled through the pumps, but for a pump (D5 *or* DDC) they have to be primed. My bad for not being thorough in my descriptives.









~Ceadder


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motor sw*
> 
> Oh man! That looks Epic


Thank you so much I'm really digging the layout and colors for sure








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pete424*
> 
> It really does look awesome. Is the interior of your case red?


I appreciate the kind words. No it is orange.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> start receiving some item for future project and just love Watercool's stuff
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow snef that is so sexy, It's got me wanting to get some heatkillers for my next build!!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Dat Res be sneffy!









see what I dood there?









~Ceadder


----------



## DRKreiger

First attempt at hard tubing.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> start receiving some item for future project and just love Watercool's stuff


https://imageshack.com/i/pm2Ft74Pj

Same!.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> First attempt at hard tubing.


very good job, looks good


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pm2Ft74Pj
> 
> Same!.


that is darn smexy. I always like the look of their stuff, but seemed to be a bit on the restrictive side. I will have to look into this one though


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> very good job, looks good


Thanks.

I killed a couple pieces in the beginning. but I ended up ditching the jig altogether about half way through.


----------



## rolldog

Ok, I have hardware on order for my Z270 build, and I decided to go all out and buy the In Win Tou 2.0 case. The case hasn't arrived yet so I don't know exactly how much room I have to work with regarding water cooling, but I have a few ideas what I'd like to do.

First, I'd like to find out if anyone has ever used stainless steel hardline tubing, if so, where did you get it and how difficult was it to work with?


----------



## DRKreiger

Stainless steel tubing is a bit difficult to bend. You will need a bending tool. and the trick i used for an automotive project was to fill it with sand to prevent kinks. But a thinner walled tubing may be more forgiving.

these are the tools

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=stainless+steel+tubing+bender+1%2F2%22&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Astainless+steel+tubing+bender+1%2F2%22


----------



## DRKreiger

Interesting case choice. BTW


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> Stainless steel tubing is a bit difficult to bend. You will need a bending tool. and the trick i used for an automotive project was to fill it with sand to prevent kinks. But a thinner walled tubing may be more forgiving.
> 
> these are the tools
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=stainless+steel+tubing+bender+1%2F2%22&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Astainless+steel+tubing+bender+1%2F2%22


Don't recall exactly where at this point in time, but I've read that the plating on the Bitspower brass tubing has a tendency to crack when bending it. Anyone have any experience with that?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> Stainless steel tubing is a bit difficult to bend. You will need a bending tool. and *the trick i used for an automotive project was to fill it with sand to prevent kinks.* But a thinner walled tubing may be more forgiving.
> 
> these are the tools
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=stainless+steel+tubing+bender+1%2F2%22&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Astainless+steel+tubing+bender+1%2F2%22


This does not work.

You require a bender or spring,you need to support the external,not internal diameter.

Stainless is a pita to bend and a pita to polish up.


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This does not work.
> 
> You require a bender or spring,you need to support the external,not internal diameter.
> 
> Stainless is a pita to bend and a pita to polish up.


I know, and second the PITA. You would be better off with copper, and get the already bent tubing coated.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> I know, and second the PITA. You would be better off with copper, and get the already bent tubing coated.


plus the copper will act as a radiator, enhancing the water loop thermals








Alluminuim is rather soft as well, maybe some tubes of this material are available? not quite as good as copper on the heat dissipation side, but way better than glass / plastic.


----------



## dwolvin

but then you'd be better going aluminum for the rad / heatsink also. Or corrosion will shoot your dog and steal your bible.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> plus the copper will act as a radiator, enhancing the water loop thermals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alluminuim is rather soft as well, maybe some tubes of this material are available? not quite as good as copper on the heat dissipation side, but way better than glass / plastic.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> but then you'd be better going aluminum for the rad / heatsink also. Or corrosion will shoot your dog and steal your bible.


Yeah, you want to mix aluminum with copper/brass/nickel as little as possible.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> but then you'd be better going aluminum for the rad / heatsink also. Or corrosion will shoot your dog and steal your bible.


just a matter of planning ahead then. plus I don't have a dog and/or a bible, corrosion can come to me when she likes.


----------



## dwolvin

Just a Joan Wilder quote, (Romancing the Stone). If you decide to go aluminum, please let us know how the tube bends go- I'm curious!


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> plus the copper will act as a radiator, enhancing the water loop thermals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alluminuim is rather soft as well, maybe some tubes of this material are available? not quite as good as copper on the heat dissipation side, but way better than glass / plastic.


Although aluminum is much softer than stainless, it is also much more delicate. you run the risk of stretching and tearing it very easily.


----------



## Inelastic

A few WIP pics.


----------



## Yellowchewgum

My first hard tubed water cooled PC


----------



## Dasandmancometh

I need some help finding a piece to my build. I'm using some small Bitspower res's that only have a 40mm tall interior dimension, I'd like to find a aqua pipe I don't have to modify for them. Does anyone know of anywhere or anything that could work for this?


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yellowchewgum*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first hard tubed water cooled PC


Looks good and makes me want to go purple fluid even more. If only there wasn't so much blue in my build.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> You can actually get thinner cable if you want to spend more (perhaps a lot more). I bought a couple of hundred feet of 16AWG FEP Teflon Silver Plated Copper Wire from MODDIY, which measures out to just over 2mm in diameter in a caliper. PPCS sells the same thing, which they get from MODDIY. After discounts it works out to 71 or 72 cents a foot, and what I spent on it I saved on having my own combs made, which will probably be here by the end of next week. Just have to make up my mind weather I want to go waterjet aluminum, or laserjet acrylic or pom:
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine the 18AWG version of the same wire would be even thinner.


Cable combs arrived, perfect fit, 304 combs for $83.24 cut and shipped:



Those white areas on the Icemodz sample are where the comb broke when I wanted to see just how much I could twist it.


----------



## sdmf74

Another junk corsair mech keyboard bit the dust on me so if anyone here has great knowledge on mech Kb's PLEASE visit *THIS POST* and help me out???


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Another junk corsair mech keyboard bit the dust on me so if anyone here has great knowledge on mech Kb's PLEASE visit *THIS POST* and help me out???


Not sure why you're asking this in the water cooling club instead of the mechnical keyboard club?


----------



## hrockh

what's the smallest pump + res combo available out there?
don't necessarily care about pump noise or performance. just enough to drive these:

1x 240mm slim
1x 140mm slim
CPU Block
GPU Block


----------



## ivannooz

So this is my project captain phasma build in progress a little tease for you guys
i7 7700k
gtx 1080ti
32gb 3200mhz ddr4 tridentz RGB
here's a glimpse of the build
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLMnKPvyi6M


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> what's the smallest pump + res combo available out there?


http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/ion-pumpreservoir

http://thermalbench.com/2016/03/03/xspc-ion-pumpreservoir/


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/ion-pumpreservoir
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/03/03/xspc-ion-pumpreservoir/


Thank you! I was aware of that one







can we go any smaller?

EDIT:
yes, it is for a SFF build


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> what's the smallest pump + res combo available out there?
> don't necessarily care about pump noise or performance. just enough to drive these:
> 
> 1x 240mm slim
> 1x 140mm slim
> CPU Block
> GPU Block


Probably a DDC set up with integrated Res. Something like a custom made bitspower one or a EK DDC 100.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-incl-pump


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Not sure why you're asking this in the water cooling club instead of the mechnical keyboard club?


Not sure why you responded to a post that you didnt read

but had you read my post you would have known that I linked the question that I originally did ask in a mechanical keyboard thread
and the reason I did is because that thread hasnt had a post in nearly a week and this thread gets more traffic & people are _mostly_ very helpful here.
Not to mention I plan on purchasing a mech KB in a day or two at the most & I was hoping for some help considering I have only owned 2 mechs (both junk corsairs) that died way before they should have.

edit: apparently you did check the link though cause you were one of the only ones to reply so thank you for that


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Probably a DDC set up with integrated Res. Something like a custom made bitspower one or a EK DDC 100.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-incl-pump


2cm shorter and cheaper: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-spc-60-mx-pwm-incl-pump (not much power in this one, however)


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> what's the smallest pump + res combo available out there?
> don't necessarily care about pump noise or performance. just enough to drive these:
> 
> 1x 240mm slim
> 1x 140mm slim
> CPU Block
> GPU Block


Well, if you want small, get a DDC pump and put Bitspower's Mini Water Tank top

There are three kinds for it:
Mini Water Tank 73.8mm (total height w/ pump: 104.1mm)
Mini Water Tank Plus 77mm (107.3mm)
Mini Water Tank Ultra 87mm (117.3mm)

Add in the height of the pump which should be around 30.3mm(with heatsink)

EK XRES DDC 100 total height is 138mm
EK XRES SPC-60 total height is 117mm


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivannooz*
> 
> So this is my project captain phasma build in progress a little tease for you guys
> i7 7700k
> gtx 1080ti
> 32gb 3200mhz ddr4 tridentz RGB
> here's a glimpse of the build
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLMnKPvyi6M


What fan is used in the exhaust spot?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> What fan is used in the exhaust spot?


Looks like an Aigo RGB fan.


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Looks like an Aigo RGB fan.


Wow. the loss of performance to get an RGB LED ring for these is pathetic. 33 CFM @ 1300rpm. really???

This RGB crap is out of control.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> Wow. the loss of performance to get an RGB LED ring for these is pathetic. 33 CFM @ 1300rpm. really???
> 
> This RGB crap is out of control.


You're telling me.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> This RGB crap is out of control.


But... it's so pretty! (Or gaudy... I've seen some ... untasteful... examples.)


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> You're telling me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> But... it's so pretty! (Or gaudy... I've seen some ... untasteful... examples.)


You guys are so out of touch!!!! EVERY PC NEEDS TO LOOK LIKE VEGES TOOK ACID!!


----------



## dwolvin

I think the RGB all the things is independent from the 'that's just not a good fan' issue. I have cheap-ish fans with LED's that are now available all RGB that are great despite the lights. But, there seem to be plenty of new designs that are showing up not holding a candle to the top of the line older stuff.

I'd think they would use good quality existing products as a baseline for the new, but apparently not.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still rocking my SP120 PWM's from Corsair, only RGB in my case is my CableMob Wide Beam strips. . I wouldn't mind trying the Corsair Vengeance RGB memory (mainly so I can color match the amber color I'm using to light my case)


----------



## ChiTownButcher

I just wish they would set a standard already! If you want RGB everything you can easily end up with 3-4 control software running at once. For example if I want Asus aura MOBO and GSkill ram that thankfully run on aura but then add in Corsair RGB fan and now I need Corsair Link also... PITA


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> I just wish they would set a standard already! If you want RGB everything you can easily end up with 3-4 control software running at once. For example if I want Asus aura MOBO and GSkill ram that thankfully run on aura but then add in Corsair RGB fan and now I need Corsair Link also... PITA


I know right? I've been programming stuff myself. Right now I have my strips and fans on an app I wrote. But, my memory and mobo still run on the Asus software. I'd love it if they made an API for it, but I doubt they will.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRKreiger*
> 
> Wow. the loss of performance to get an RGB LED ring for these is pathetic. 33 CFM @ 1300rpm. really???
> 
> This RGB crap is out of control.


Lol, yea those fans aren't very good.

I did some research on them and wasn't impressed. I liked how they put the leds in a diffuser, but I don't like how the diffuser is large and bulbous; it looks low quality. I guess that follows with its performance.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Still rocking my SP120 PWM's from Corsair, only RGB in my case is my CableMob Wide Beam strips. . I wouldn't mind trying the Corsair Vengeance RGB memory (mainly so I can color match the amber color I'm using to light my case)


I still rocking GT fans (I hoard those). I think I am up to over 20 of them now.









The RGB looks a bit neat in certain builds I seen, but myself, I could care less for the flashiness in my computers. Though, I kind of like those LEDs in the barbs lighting up the water. Not to harsh looking and gives a nice look. I am complete opposite when it comes to my motorcycle.







In that case, more lights work out to be noticed and hopefully not hit.

Question for any peeps who rock the MO-RA3 LT. Can one pump handle one of those added to a loop, or do I need to add another pump to be on the safe side? Current loop has one D5 with a 360mm and 200mm radiator already. Though, if I add the MO-RA3 LT, I will most likely take the 200mm out of the loop and re-mod the front of the case to just take fans instead with a fan controller.


----------



## Hello Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hello Man*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Just found this thread and thought I would add my in progress rig to the lot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is an 800d with aging hardware as follows:
> 
> The loop:
> -Swiftech MCP35x with an XSPC acrylic top
> -Watercool Heatkiller GTX 680 hole edition
> -Swiftech Apogee HD
> -Some primo chill LRT tube in white
> -Phobya Balancer 150
> -Primochill clear coolant that I am considering dying at some point
> -XSPC EX360
> 
> Rig:
> -FX8350 at 4.5GHZ
> -GTX 670 GC V2 (Galaxy), soon to be replaced by an EVGA 780 Ti SC with a Swiftech Hydro Copper block
> -16GB 1600 MHZ DDR3
> -ASUS M5A99X Evo R2.0
> -A (dare I say) Huntkey X7 900W, maybe the only good PSU they ever made, which actually rocks (if you need convincing as I did, look it up)
> -1 320GB WD Green for games
> -1 250GB Kingston SSD
> -2x3TB Seagate drives in raid 1 for my photos and video footage
> 
> That is about it!
> 
> EDIT: More Pix


Update on this nugget of a computer.

I finally got my used 780Ti Hydro Copper and realized I needed some 8 pin power supply cables. Cool. All great except my power supply is old, a strange 900W unit made by Huntkey for Rocketfish that I got with the first PC I ever truly rebuilt like 6 years ago. I ditched 99% of that LGA 775 system but kept that PSU and kind of had some sentimental attachment. The only problem is that although the 6 pin PCI connector is the same as the plug on a GPU (meaning I just made some janky double ended six pin cables), the 8 pin wasn't. The only way I could have gotten one was to buy an entirely new used unit, costing me 60 bucks. So, with some sadness, I bought an EVGA G1 650W Gold unit.

It showed up a few days ago and I commenced the rebuild. I found some better ways to route cables, improved management and came out with what I think is something respectable, now minus the horrific multi-color cables of my old PSU. Still a little sad that unit had to go tho.





I would love some suggestions for low budget or DIY improvements!


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Not sure why you're asking this in the water cooling club instead of the mechnical keyboard club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure why you responded to a post that you didnt read
> 
> but had you read my post you would have known that I linked the question that I originally did ask in a mechanical keyboard thread
> and the reason I did is because that thread hasnt had a post in nearly a week and this thread gets more traffic & people are _mostly_ very helpful here.
> Not to mention I plan on purchasing a mech KB in a day or two at the most & I was hoping for some help considering I have only owned 2 mechs (both junk corsairs) that died way before they should have.
> 
> edit: apparently you did check the link though cause you were one of the only ones to reply so thank you for that
Click to expand...

so you're NOT looking to WC a MKB?

i just thought that would be interesting.









personally i don't see the harm some small peripheral chat.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I know right? I've been programming stuff myself. Right now I have my strips and fans on an app I wrote. But, my memory and mobo still run on the Asus software. I'd love it if they made an API for it, but I doubt they will.
> Lol, yea those fans aren't very good.
> 
> I did some research on them and wasn't impressed. I liked how they put the leds in a diffuser, but I don't like how the diffuser is large and bulbous; it looks low quality. I guess that follows with its performance.


There are always the LED angel eye rings from the DazMod store but those are not RGB.


----------



## IT Diva

With a little imagination and creativity, even a cheap, ugly duckling of a case can hold its own with the higher end crowd . .



Will be adding a midplate and inner front trim panel like this one to dress up the interior a bit . . . . .



Darlene


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> There are always the LED angel eye rings from the DazMod store but those are not RGB.


Interesting, although I don't think I'd like those. I prefer rgb so I'm not stuck with the same color without the need to change out the leds. Plus, I don't like the look of visible leds, the dots. I like the diffused look or indirect. I went with the Riing RGB fans. They look good and aren't horrible. Plus they were easy enough to mod to work with my software.

My favorite looking fan is the Deepcool MF120, but they aren't released yet and I have no idea how they would perform.


----------



## Hello Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Interesting, although I don't think I'd like those. I prefer rgb so I'm not stuck with the same color without the need to change out the leds. Plus, I don't like the look of visible leds, the dots. I like the diffused look or indirect. I went with the Riing RGB fans. They look good and aren't horrible. Plus they were easy enough to mod to work with my software.
> 
> My favorite looking fan is the Deepcool MF120, but they aren't released yet and I have no idea how they would perform.


Jayz Two Cents did something with open sided fans like that. He found they were honestly about the same when it came to performance if I remember correctly.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hello Man*
> 
> Jayz Two Cents did something with open sided fans like that. He found they were honestly about the same when it came to performance if I remember correctly.


There is no way a frameless fan on a radiator performs anywhere near as good as framed fans, all other things being equal.


----------



## DRKreiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Interesting, although I don't think I'd like those. I prefer rgb so I'm not stuck with the same color without the need to change out the leds. Plus, I don't like the look of visible leds, the dots. I like the diffused look or indirect. I went with the Riing RGB fans. They look good and aren't horrible. Plus they were easy enough to mod to work with my software.
> 
> My favorite looking fan is the Deepcool MF120, but they aren't released yet and I have no idea how they would perform.


These would only serve a useful purpose as an intake or exhaust fan for case position only. not sure you would be much static pressure produced at all


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With a little imagination and creativity, even a cheap, ugly duckling of a case can hold its own with the higher end crowd . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Will be adding a midplate and inner front trim panel like this one to dress up the interior a bit . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Ulala...Do I spot a custom reservoir with an integrated d5 under it and attached to it? Nice job as always Darlene


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ulala...Do I spot a custom reservoir with an integrated d5 under it and attached to it? Nice job as always Darlene


I thought that was a one of the RES that some guy on here was selling. He had a YouTube video that came over my feed about a Month ago.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Interesting, although I don't think I'd like those. I prefer rgb so I'm not stuck with the same color without the need to change out the leds. Plus, I don't like the look of visible leds, the dots. I like the diffused look or indirect. I went with the Riing RGB fans. They look good and aren't horrible. Plus they were easy enough to mod to work with my software.
> 
> My favorite looking fan is the Deepcool MF120, but they aren't released yet and I have no idea how they would perform.


For $90 a 3 pack they better be awesome! What is with every company wanting $30 a fan these days. It use to be a cheap fan was $5 and good fan was $10 and a GREAT fan was $15-20. Prices are getting crazy... It's like Corsair making the 2pack if fans with grey blades to give you a reason to buy the singles with rubber corners for more $


----------



## aaronpiatt

*A few pictures of my 1st build. I have the itch to do another.*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is no way a frameless fan on a radiator performs anywhere near as good as framed fans, all other things being equal.


This.

Frameless fans are just garbage for anything with a resistance to airflow.

JayZ is only worth watching if you have not reached your quota of stupid for that month.......


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This.
> 
> Frameless fans are just garbage for anything with a resistance to airflow.
> 
> JayZ is only worth watching if you have not reached your quota of stupid for that month.......


While I do agree with you, the tests J ran were not with completely frameless fans, and he did mention that they don't perform as good as a fan designed specifically for radiators. (he tested that semi frameless EVGA CLC)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With a little imagination and creativity, even a cheap, ugly duckling of a case can hold its own with the higher end crowd . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Will be adding a midplate and inner front trim panel like this one to dress up the interior a bit . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Ulala...Do I spot a custom reservoir with an integrated d5 under it and attached to it? Nice job as always Darlene
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ulala...Do I spot a custom reservoir with an integrated d5 under it and attached to it? Nice job as always Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that was a one of the RES that some guy on here was selling. He had a YouTube video that came over my feed about a Month ago.
Click to expand...

Yes it's a custom res with a D5, but I can't take the credit for it . . .

It is one of the first Radikult Custom ones:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1629677/radikultcustom-anyone-want-to-be-the-first-to-try

It has some good features, but also some little things that must be changed before I could recommend it. I gave a lot of feedback in the thread.

Since I was going to make something similar anyway, I figured buying one of these might be a work saver.

As long as it's completely full, it's virtually dead silent with an AC PWM D5, but with hardline, I'll have to allow for coolant expansion with increased temperature.

The way the 360 sits in the lower compartment, is going to be really hard to totally fill, so my expansion space is probably right there.

D.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With a little imagination and creativity, even a cheap, ugly duckling of a case can hold its own with the higher end crowd . .
> 
> 
> 
> Will be adding a midplate and inner front trim panel like this one to dress up the interior a bit . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Is that the d5 pump
Reservoir from the guy on YouTube. He sells it
On eBay. Can't remember the name off hand. But looks great. Edit. I'm dumb. That's what I get for posting before reading it divas whole post


----------



## Deeptek

Lookin good, D.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I still rocking GT fans (I hoard those). I think I am up to over 20 of them now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The RGB looks a bit neat in certain builds I seen, but myself, I could care less for the flashiness in my computers. Though, I kind of like those LEDs in the barbs lighting up the water. Not to harsh looking and gives a nice look. I am complete opposite when it comes to my motorcycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In that case, more lights work out to be noticed and hopefully not hit.
> 
> Question for any peeps who rock the MO-RA3 LT. Can one pump handle one of those added to a loop, or do I need to add another pump to be on the safe side? Current loop has one D5 with a 360mm and 200mm radiator already. Though, if I add the MO-RA3 LT, I will most likely take the 200mm out of the loop and re-mod the front of the case to just take fans instead with a fan controller.


One D5 should be able to handle a mora and a 360mm. I ran a stock (no top) D5 with a mora and a 240 rad for quite some time with no problems.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I still rocking GT fans (I hoard those). I think I am up to over 20 of them now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The RGB looks a bit neat in certain builds I seen, but myself, I could care less for the flashiness in my computers. Though, I kind of like those LEDs in the barbs lighting up the water. Not to harsh looking and gives a nice look. I am complete opposite when it comes to my motorcycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In that case, more lights work out to be noticed and hopefully not hit.
> 
> Question for any peeps who rock the MO-RA3 LT. Can one pump handle one of those added to a loop, or do I need to add another pump to be on the safe side? Current loop has one D5 with a 360mm and 200mm radiator already. Though, if I add the MO-RA3 LT, I will most likely take the 200mm out of the loop and re-mod the front of the case to just take fans instead with a fan controller.


You should be fine. Easiest way to know for sure is add up the restriction of all your Rads and Blocks and compare it to the head pressure of the D5 at your speed setting of choice. I was able to find a Thermal Bench review of the MO-RA3 420 not sure if that is the one you are referring to but it does include flow restriction.
http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/12/watercool-heatkiller-mo-ra3-420-pro-radiator/3/


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is no way a frameless fan on a radiator performs anywhere near as good as framed fans, all other things being equal.


Thanks. That's what my initial thoughts but I wasn't sure.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes it's a custom res with a D5, but I can't take the credit for it . . .
> 
> It is one of the first Radikult Custom ones:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1629677/radikultcustom-anyone-want-to-be-the-first-to-try
> 
> It has some good features, but also some little things that must be changed before I could recommend it. I gave a lot of feedback in the thread.
> 
> Since I was going to make something similar anyway, I figured buying one of these might be a work saver.
> 
> As long as it's completely full, it's virtually dead silent with an AC PWM D5, but with hardline, I'll have to allow for coolant expansion with increased temperature.
> 
> The way the 360 sits in the lower compartment, is going to be really hard to totally fill, so my expansion space is probably right there.
> 
> D.


Got it Darlene, thks for the heads up. Yep, I can see that now that I look at the ebay pics of the reservoir. That is one of the reasons I am designing a custom mount for the d5 for my next build (silence). I wanna have a cool looking but also effective mount for the D5. It will be done in acrylic and use sorbothane to decouple it. Which reminds me I need to give a start for the thread...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> One D5 should be able to handle a mora and a 360mm. I ran a stock (no top) D5 with a mora and a 240 rad for quite some time with no problems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> You should be fine. Easiest way to know for sure is add up the restriction of all your Rads and Blocks and compare it to the head pressure of the D5 at your speed setting of choice. I was able to find a Thermal Bench review of the MO-RA3 420 not sure if that is the one you are referring to but it does include flow restriction.
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/12/watercool-heatkiller-mo-ra3-420-pro-radiator/3/


Thank you both for your replies. +Rep

Time to sit down and do the figuring then. Poor Haf X going to be dremel again.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Got it Darlene, thks for the heads up. Yep, I can see that now that I look at the ebay pics of the reservoir. That is one of the reasons I am designing a custom mount for the d5 for my next build (silence). I wanna have a cool looking but also effective mount for the D5. It will be done in acrylic and use sorbothane to decouple it. Which reminds me I need to give a start for the thread...


Everytime I do a bay res with a pump,they always come out silent,the bigger the res the better.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Everytime I do a bay res with a pump,they always come out silent,the bigger the res the better.


Cool, good to known B. It is a In Win 303 and I will do a big reservoir (but subtle on the external side) on it and a custom mount for the d5 almost integrated to it. Guess is time to start the thread, have all the components already.


----------



## SycussMoO

My Current Build as it went though its stages of being built. . and my Razer blackwidow ultimate Chroma with White keycaps.

Image 1 is my original Idea Drawn on a note 4 before going to full blown liquid cooling.


Result After I painted my Gigabyte Extreme Gaming Waterforce 980ti


Separate view.


First Bend Monsoon hardline bent with the Monsoon bending kit


Monsoon MMRS res and D5 Pump assymbled


Case in process of being painted and detailed.


Sleeved cable extensions alternating for color pop.


Fully painted blocks and other motherboard components


Before the backplate


Getting ready to run the tubes




Finished build all lit up with the monsoon lightports and sanded tubes *better glow effect more light refraction than clear tubes.


Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Chroma with custom White Keycaps. Beautiful


I hope you all enjoyed as much as i did building this.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@rolldog

I think the maincorn (someone can link his profile) buys the steel off of mccar.com?

TCO

Its szeged, he sent me this link.

https://www.mcmaster.com

And then the tubing of choice. ( I was way off on the mccar etc) tired from the Lafayette Car show.


----------



## Deedaz

That backplate looks amazing @SycussMoO, did you do that yourself?


----------



## sdmf74

Hey guys I wanna do a quick system flush without taking everything apart and cleaning seperately, I was wondering what I could use that would be safe to run through the system for like ten minutes then flush out with
distilled water a few times before I fill it back up with EK cryofuel (clear)

I heard vinegar is bad for the nickel plated blocks so whats a good alternative? I heard hydrogen peroxide could be used? or possibly a small amount of dish soap?

I dont have any of those cleaning kits i.e. (mayhems) that sell for like $50


----------



## xGeNeSisx

First loop with alphacool 240 and a 120 rads, went EK for all blocks and tubing. The quality of their products is really just amazing. The 1070 full cover block is gorgeous

Leaktest


D5 pump/res bleeding the loop


Used white XSPC additive, going for a white and black theme. Eventually have to try Mayhems pastel white


Finally built first custom loop after using AIOs for so long. Previously had an H105 for 6700k and H55 w/ G10 bracket for the 1070. Still a noob with a lot to read and learn. Just bought a white Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS to put up top...








The feeling of having a custom loop after relying on CLC AIOs since they hit the market is so satisfying. I never realized just how loud those ****ty pumps were and now my D5 at full speed is completely silent


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> The feeling of having a custom loop after relying on CLC AIOs since they hit the market is so satisfying.


I think that statement is something most people here can agree with (perhaps slightly modified) 100%. Unlike a coolIt or asetek unit, this is YOUR loop. You made it. If something is wrong, you can fix it. You can modify it. You can add to it. You can clean it. You can make it look better than some black tubes sticking out of a black block. There are very few limits with what you can do.

In a very real sense, Welcome to infinity.


----------



## Dortheleus

Nicely done.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I think that statement is something most people here can agree with (perhaps slightly modified) 100%. Unlike a coolIt or asetek unit, this is YOUR loop. You made it. If something is wrong, you can fix it. You can modify it. You can add to it. You can clean it. You can make it look better than some black tubes sticking out of a black block. There are very few limits with what you can do.
> 
> In a very real sense, Welcome to infinity.


Yup, It's liberating because I'm in control and can replace or fix anything. I had my previous H105 AIO burst open as I powered up the PC. The tubing just shot out of the pump head...as soon as I heard the bang I powered down. I just shook my head and knew that a custom loop with compression fittings was the answer. Cleaned the propylene glycol/H20 mix from components and nothing was damaged. What a terrible design...

I bought quite a few 90° fittings so the soft tubing will look a bit cleaner and reduce potential for kinks. I'm not quite sure on whether draining the entire loop is necessary when the new 360 is added and that's where I'm uncertain how to proceed.

I will be adding a Y splitter down low so I have a dedicated drain port that will have a flow/temp sensor stopper that can be easily removed when needed.

I was planning to run the back 120 rad up to the new 360 that will be on top. That will then run to the front 240 intake and it should turn out marvelous

Main question is whether draining completely is necessary upon addition of 360mm rad. Not quite sure what is the best approach









Also the alphacool 240 has 6 ports. The top 2 are generally used to have extra ports to allow any trapped air to escape the rad if I understand correctly. If a full flush/drain is needed, could I put a compression fitting on one of them and run tubing outside the case to drain as a temporary measure?

That's my only hangup, any advice would be great! Thanks guys


----------



## Rainmaker91

So... I just turned on my PC and it all kind of refused to boot properly. When I took a look at my reservoir and tubing I noticed that the few air bubbles still in my system were not moving (guess I haven't bled it properly yet). It all refused to reboot even when I held the shut down button, so I ended up pulling the plug and restarting it that way. This time the pump and everything seemed to work fine, but my BIOS gave me a message saying "shut-down due to CPU temperature" or something like that.

So I'm thinking my pump is close to dying, anyone else have any input on this?

Edit: oh and in case anyone is curious it's a Swiftech MCP35X


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> Main question is whether draining completely is necessary upon addition of 360mm rad. Not quite sure what is the best approach


If it's not obvious, clean/flush the new rads before attaching.

Personally, I don't see any reason for a FULL drain when only adding components, especially when your coolant is only a few days old to begin with. Of course, the loop will partially drain when adding stuff, so you'll get to enjoy bleeding the air out once again either way.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> If it's not obvious, clean/flush the new rads before attaching.
> 
> Personally, I don't see any reason for a FULL drain when only adding components, especially when your coolant is only a few days old to begin with. Of course, the loop will partially drain when adding stuff, so you'll get to enjoy bleeding the air out once again either way.


The alphacool rads I got from here on OCN were immaculate upon receipt. I am hesitant to use vinegar, peroxide, dish soap, etc.

I filled all rads with pure distilled and drained it multiple times to flush. I filled them up again, sealed, and shook them up. Drained that, filled again and allowed them to sit for a day and then drained before install

No discolored fluid, flakes, or particulate ever were flushed out.

Upon receiving my new Black Ice Nemesis, I performed the same procedure. Their reputation for shipping relatively clean rads was true in my situation. No filth or dirty water like I have seen reported with many XSPC rads has been an issue so far


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So... I just turned on my PC and it all kind of refused to boot properly. When I took a look at my reservoir and tubing I noticed that the few air bubbles still in my system were not moving (guess I haven't bled it properly yet). It all refused to reboot even when I held the shut down button, so I ended up pulling the plug and restarting it that way. This time the pump and everything seemed to work fine, but my BIOS gave me a message saying "shut-down due to CPU temperature" or something like that.
> 
> So I'm thinking my pump is close to dying, anyone else have any input on this?
> 
> Edit: oh and in case anyone is curious it's a Swiftech MCP35X


Ow, that sucks. Does the pump spin up now at all? What's the chipset/CPU, could it be affected by the temperature spike problem?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Ow, that sucks. Does the pump spin up now at all? What's the chipset/CPU, could it be affected by the temperature spike problem?


It's an AMD Ryzen 1700x on a Asus x370 Crosshair VI Hero. It was just that one time though, and after I switched the PSU on and off again it seems to work fine. So the pump works for now at least, but I have no idea what would have lead to it just refusing to start at my previous start-up attempt. Can there be something wrong on the pump PCB? the motor seems to work fine, so it seems like it's either that or the PSU which is the problem. Though the PSU works flawlessly and the DDC is cooled with a heat-sink, so I'm not quite sure what could be the issue. Though I would much rather swap out the pump than the PSU.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's definitely not your pump. I had that happen with my Sig Rig. It's the board. It's just cooling the residual heat and then when cool will start just fine.

It's kind of a pain but you should always check software temps. If they go up quicker than usual shut it down, wait a few minutes and then boot back up. POST is sometimes an exasperating process which goes longer than just the initial startup screen. I would keep an eye on the pump to be sure but I doubt your pump had anything to do with that issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's definitely not your pump. I had that happen with my Sig Rig. It's the board. It's just cooling the residual heat and then when cool will start just fine.
> 
> It's kind of a pain but you should always check software temps. If they go up quicker than usual shut it down, wait a few minutes and then boot back up. POST is sometimes an exasperating process which goes longer than just the initial startup screen. I would keep an eye on the pump to be sure but I doubt your pump had anything to do with that issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well, since the pump gets direct 12v from the PSU I'm not so sure. Though it is somewhat comforting that I don't have to pay up another 200 bucks for pump and reservoir (I have a bitspower combo now, and if I'm ever changing my DDC it's going to be with a D5). I actually have a flow meter in my drawer ready to be put in, and the Crosshair VI should be able to give an alarm if that stops working.

Oh well, hopefully I can wait with getting new parts for at least a bit longer.


----------



## dwolvin

Ah- I understand better now. I have to put an accessory fan on my power circuits above the socket (X79 MB) to keep it reasonable, I think I have two of them left if you need...

Brackets

Oh- I also agree on a flowmeter being good for piece of mind. I need to redo my loop soon anyway so I'm on the lookout for a good looking one.


----------



## Kranik

Got a couple shots of the D-Frame Mini. It's been like this for a bit (thanks to law school and a mishap with a tap







), definitely not close to complete but there's no such thing as too much InWin right?


----------



## aaronpiatt

hmmmmm


----------



## SycussMoO

@deedaz Not entirely the guys over at V1TECH.com made if for me when i was over in S Korea. I added the line work on it for it to match the rest of the gpu and build.


----------



## Inelastic

Leak test complete. Now time to add the cables, lighting, and fill.


----------



## SycussMoO

My Prior Z77 build with dual gigabyte g1 GTX 970s... this build was the reason why I wont do sli again for a looong while.

further back shot. coolant is mayhems pastel white with deep sea blue and dark blue dye.


Closeup, this was before i got into sleeving my cables.


the case was painted by me with a red interior, at the end of this pc's life due to a Really bad leak due to a dissolved gasket i did cut the window where that side radiator is.

Total rad space is 960mm of rad space. Their is a 320mm rad up top that was 55mm thick a 320mm rad down the front that was 45mm thick and the thin rad on the side that was also 320mm thick. under the psu cover was a duct to 4 fans 2 connected to the 320 rad and 2 to the floor of the case the duct was made out of cardboard paper and duct tape. surprisingly worked best when the window was not cut as i left a space and a cut out at the rear of the case to alow airflow through to the glass side of the rad. My reason for cutting the window was to get the rattle to stop.

all in all great build hit the 5ghz and then some with this rig, and for that it will always be in my fondest memories.


----------



## SycussMoO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Leak test complete. Now time to add the cables, lighting, and fill.


Hey when i got my MMRS i did get 2 of the MMRS cold cathods with the fittings at the top to go inside the rez. I got white ones... keep in mind they are a very warm white. i do not recommend them as you can see on page 10485 I have 1 of them turned on in the tube res and its yellowish..... white lights should not glow yellow... when the monsoon light port leds... are more of a bluish to true white. was very disapointed with this. hoping to save you some hassle and mula. I have yet to remove mine but plan to in the future. I will be contacting monsoon about the color being off white. I like what your doing with this case. Very Nice!!


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SycussMoO*
> 
> Hey when i got my MMRS i did get 2 of the MMRS cold cathods with the fittings at the top to go inside the rez. I got white ones... keep in mind they are a very warm white. i do not recommend them as you can see on page 10485 I have 1 of them turned on in the tube res and its yellowish..... white lights should not glow yellow... when the monsoon light port leds... are more of a bluish to true white. was very disapointed with this. hoping to save you some hassle and mula. I have yet to remove mine but plan to in the future. I will be contacting monsoon about the color being off white. I like what your doing with this case. Very Nice!!


Good to know, thanks. I'm using high density rgbw led strips. You can see an example of what it's going to look like in my build log in my sig.


----------



## SycussMoO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Good to know, thanks. I'm using high density rgbw led strips. You can see an example of what it's going to look like in my build log in my sig.


Nice love the effect that gives i might be borrowing that in the future... A++++ for look and it looks waaaaaaaaay better than what my CCFL does way more even distribution of light.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SycussMoO*
> 
> Nice love the effect that gives i might be borrowing that in the future... A++++ for look and it looks waaaaaaaaay better than what my CCFL does way more even distribution of light.


Thanks. I have low density (30 leds/m) version in those pics. But I plan on putting 144 leds/m in there so the light won't be dotted. It'll be nice and evenly distributed.

I just finished getting it filled and ready. I still have lots to do,like add the lighting and make new cables, but I need to get more things to continue.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Adding more LED's definitely fills things out, I know I have been happy with my 1st gen Cable Mod Wide Beam RGB strips (3 - 30cm around the front of the case and 1 30cm on my rear panel to add accent lighting for my desk). Still need to mod the InWin logo on the front to an RGB set of LEDs to match the rest of the case's lights to whatever color I'm running that day.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Sorry this doesn't have rgb or anything..


----------



## DarthBaggins

I do wish I could find a set of Amber LED's as I'd run those over my RGB.



What temps are you getting on your setup? @MattBaneLM


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronpiatt*
> 
> *A few pictures of my 1st build. I have the itch to do another.*


nice build! what case is it?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like a Fractal Node


----------



## ir88ed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronpiatt*
> 
> *A few pictures of my 1st build. I have the itch to do another.*


Nice transition from the GPU to the CPU. That is a tough bend.


----------



## aaronpiatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> nice build! what case is it?


Fractal Design Node 804


----------



## aaronpiatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ir88ed*
> 
> Nice transition from the GPU to the CPU. That is a tough bend.


Thank you! I actually got really lucky on all the bends for it being my first time trying this.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> The alphacool rads I got from here on OCN were immaculate upon receipt. I am hesitant to use vinegar, peroxide, dish soap, etc.
> 
> I filled all rads with pure distilled and drained it multiple times to flush. I filled them up again, sealed, and shook them up. Drained that, filled again and allowed them to sit for a day and then drained before install
> 
> No discolored fluid, flakes, or particulate ever were flushed out.
> 
> Upon receiving my new Black Ice Nemesis, I performed the same procedure. Their reputation for shipping relatively clean rads was true in my situation. No filth or dirty water like I have seen reported with many XSPC rads has been an issue so far


I thought my XSPC ex360 and ex280 rads were clean too when i put my loop together. Turns out i was wrong. At a bare minimum i'd fill with hot distilled with some vinegar and shake the crap out of them. because over the course of around 4 months i kept watching my flow rate steadily decline and it was because both my blocks were getting gunked up by flux and pigments from the Mayhems X1 coolant. Basically my flow rate had gone from 0.9gpm to 0.61gpm over that time period due to the blockage. I'm now running Mayhems XT-1 Nuke clear coolant with some non-stain UV clear dye and all is well. Back to 0.92gpm.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> Sorry this doesn't have rgb or anything..


Looks a lot like the setup @fast_fate posted recently
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/104730_30#post_26095435


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Looks a lot like the setup @fast_fate posted recently
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/104730_30#post_26095435


Actually I think that is @fast_fate's build. . busted


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Actually I think that is @fast_fate
> 's build. . busted


I was just gonna let that link speak for it's self, but maybe they hang out or something? I believe fast is in aus too


----------



## Inelastic

This matrix looks better than I thought it would. Displaying my water temp now. The fans are looking too dim though. I'll probably turn the lights on those off.


----------



## eucalyptus

Just wanted to share something I made of parts I had laying around







Guess it's quite obvious what it is









1 drop of each, Mayhems UV green and UV Yellow/green dye









Cheers


----------



## DarthBaggins

The new Mayhems Keychain lol


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I think that statement is something most people here can agree with (perhaps slightly modified) 100%. Unlike a coolIt or asetek unit, this is YOUR loop. You made it. If something is wrong, you can fix it. You can modify it. You can add to it. You can clean it. You can make it look better than some black tubes sticking out of a black block. There are very few limits with what you can do.
> 
> In a very real sense, Welcome to infinity.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, It's liberating because I'm in control and can replace or fix anything. I had my previous H105 AIO burst open as I powered up the PC. The tubing just shot out of the pump head...as soon as I heard the bang I powered down. I just shook my head and knew that a custom loop with compression fittings was the answer. Cleaned the propylene glycol/H20 mix from components and nothing was damaged. What a terrible design...
> 
> I bought quite a few 90° fittings so the soft tubing will look a bit cleaner and reduce potential for kinks. I'm not quite sure on whether draining the entire loop is necessary when the new 360 is added and that's where I'm uncertain how to proceed.
> 
> I will be adding a Y splitter down low so I have a dedicated drain port that will have a flow/temp sensor stopper that can be easily removed when needed.
> 
> I was planning to run the back 120 rad up to the new 360 that will be on top. That will then run to the front 240 intake and it should turn out marvelous
> 
> Main question is whether draining completely is necessary upon addition of 360mm rad. Not quite sure what is the best approach
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the alphacool 240 has 6 ports. The top 2 are generally used to have extra ports to allow any trapped air to escape the rad if I understand correctly. If a full flush/drain is needed, could I put a compression fitting on one of them and run tubing outside the case to drain as a temporary measure?
> 
> That's my only hangup, any advice would be great! Thanks guys
Click to expand...

Absolutely allot of people do. And imo you never "fully" drain your pc. You need to get all water out from mobo side and above, and no water on psu of course....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> Main question is whether draining completely is necessary upon addition of 360mm rad. Not quite sure what is the best approach
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it's not obvious, clean/flush the new rads before attaching.
> 
> Personally, I don't see any reason for a FULL drain when only adding components, especially when your coolant is only a few days old to begin with. Of course, the loop will partially drain when adding stuff, so you'll get to enjoy bleeding the air out once again either way.
Click to expand...

Just be careful not to spill anything

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's definitely not your pump. I had that happen with my Sig Rig. It's the board. It's just cooling the residual heat and then when cool will start just fine.
> 
> It's kind of a pain but you should always check software temps. If they go up quicker than usual shut it down, wait a few minutes and then boot back up. POST is sometimes an exasperating process which goes longer than just the initial startup screen. I would keep an eye on the pump to be sure but I doubt your pump had anything to do with that issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, since the pump gets direct 12v from the PSU I'm not so sure. Though it is somewhat comforting that I don't have to pay up another 200 bucks for pump and reservoir (I have a bitspower combo now, and if I'm ever changing my DDC it's going to be with a D5). I actually have a flow meter in my drawer ready to be put in, and the Crosshair VI should be able to give an alarm if that stops working.
> 
> Oh well, hopefully I can wait with getting new parts for at least a bit longer.
Click to expand...

Hate to tell you, if you go with a d5, you probably will need to spend that much... depending on what you get, you cam also just get another ddc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Looks a lot like the setup @@fast_fate posted recently
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/104730_30#post_26095435
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I think that is @@fast_fate
> 's build. . busted
Click to expand...

He never claimed it was his


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Hate to tell you, if you go with a d5, you probably will need to spend that much... depending on what you get, you cam also just get another ddc


I'm well, aware of the cost of a d5. which is why I'm hoping I can run my MCP35x a bit longer, or at least until I'm ready to make the switch form my 50mm bitspower ddc reservoir combo and over to a mount where I would have the pump mounted separately. For now though the DDC wroks well enough, but if I'm ever replacing it (it's going to happen sometime anyway) then I'm getting a d5 instead.

As for the actual price of a d5... the pump itself is only about 20% more expensive than a half decent DDC, but considering you would need to add a heat-sink, pump mount and pump to to the DDC and at least a pump top to the d5 then they are actually priced fairly similarly in the end. That said, I already have the ddc parts... but if I don't just buy a bare-bones DDC then the EKWB d5 is actually the best offer since I get a pump mount, pump top and te pump itself for a fairly decent price.


----------



## Mega Man

hate to tell you this but most of the " bottom level " ( ddc or d5s ) are more then the average user needs.

even 99% of ocn that is way too much pump....also afaik that HS is compatible with all ddcs


----------



## Yellowchewgum

Very nice setup.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Looks a lot like the setup @fast_fate posted recently
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/104730_30#post_26095435


It is his setup lol
This pic is at his house when we overclocked a qx9650 last week
Just thought it would be a funny post with the rgb dig haha


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Actually I think that is @fast_fate
> 's build. . busted


Haha Daz won't mind

It's at least attached to my mobo and CPU and using my psu.


----------



## MattBaneLM

To make ya laugh

http://www.overclock.net/t/1613669/perth-australia-sub-zero-guys#post_26106450


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What temps are you getting on your setup? @MattBaneLM


Yeah my cooling "solution" and Matt's hardware in the photo Matt posted.

After modifying the chiller to bypass the internal controller coolant temp got down to -7ish°C without system running.

quite impressive considering we were running with ambient temperature of around 20°C

With system running the cooling package kept coolant temp between -1.5° and -3°C.
this resulted in amazing CPU temps
CPU running at 5°C (CPU stock settings) when we started.
In the end we were bashing 2.0 Volts down the QX9650 chip and max CPU temp was not much higher than 20°C

We were hoping for a 5GHz run
BUT had to settle for 4.951GHZ.
We hope for another session next week and go for that 5.0 (or higher)



@MattBaneLM you should edit posts and add to the 1st one, rather than triple post in a row - LOL


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> It is his setup lol
> This pic is at his house when we overclocked a qx9650 last week
> Just thought it would be a funny post with the rgb dig haha


haha twas! I didn't really think you were daft enough to steal FF's rig photos.

Nice work on that btw fella's. I hope to dabble at some point when I have more free time


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yeah my cooling "solution" and Matt's hardware in the photo Matt posted.
> 
> After modifying the chiller to bypass the internal controller coolant temp got down to -7ish°C without system running.
> 
> quite impressive considering we were running with ambient temperature of around 20°C
> 
> With system running the cooling package kept coolant temp between -1.5° and -3°C.
> this resulted in amazing CPU temps
> CPU running at 5°C (CPU stock settings) when we started.
> In the end we were bashing 2.0 Volts down the QX9650 chip and max CPU temp was not much higher than 20°C
> 
> We were hoping for a 5GHz run
> BUT had to settle for 4.951GHZ.
> We hope for another session next week and go for that 5.0 (or higher)
> 
> 
> 
> @MattBaneLM you should edit posts and add to the 1st one, rather than triple post in a row - LOL


Yeah I know but on my phone my old man eyes can't work out what to do lol


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hate to tell you this but most of the " bottom level " ( ddc or d5s ) are more then the average user needs.
> 
> even 99% of ocn that is way too much pump....also afaik that HS is compatible with all ddcs


I'm well aware, but there is a reason to choose a d5 and a ddc over something like a DC-LT or any other alternative. The simple fact is that the d5 and the DDC are well known as some of the most reliable pumps out there, so for someone like me who wants longevity they both fit the bill fairly well. As for wether or not I will actually swap out my ddc with a d5... at some point it will probably happen, but I am hoping to get as much life out of what I already have before that happens. Obviously if my pump dies I can use al the ddc compatible equipment that I already have, which is why I am considering just swaping it out with a new ddc instead of a d5. Though I really want a d5 for the simple fact that its quite a bit more quiet than a ddc.

So while I'm well aware that a ddc will be more than enough for my 2 block, 2 rad setup I kind of want a d5 for the silence. I'll have to wait and see what happens, but tts always best to get some additional life out of parts I already have than to just swap out everything.


----------



## fast_fate

I connected the chiller set-up pictured previously to RIVE board and 3960X for some OC tweaking yesterday.
Stayed just below ambient so didn't have to insulate everything from condensation.

The 3960X still has plenty left in the tank, breaking 5200MHz with ease


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ah so a team effort, I can go w/ that lol


----------



## prznar1

A warning about coolabolatory liquid copper

DO NOT USE THIS PASTE.

After 6 months of use it just evaporated. There was nearly no paste at all between my cpu and block same on gpu and block. It just wanished.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> A warning about coolabolatory liquid copper
> 
> DO NOT USE THIS PASTE.
> 
> After 6 months of use it just evaporated. There was nearly no paste at all between my cpu and block same on gpu and block. It just wanished.


Did your hardware survive?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> A warning about coolabolatory liquid copper
> 
> DO NOT USE THIS PASTE.
> 
> After 6 months of use it just evaporated. There was nearly no paste at all between my cpu and block same on gpu and block. It just wanished.


Between die an IHS or between IHS and heatsink base?









It didn't disappear. It went _someplace_.









~Ceadder


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Between die an IHS or between IHS and heatsink base?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didn't disappear. It went _someplace_.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


ihs and block base. And im telling you, it evaporated. It was missing, havent slipped from block to mobo or gpu but it was just missing.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Did your hardware survive?


ofc it survived. Temps were increasing while there was less and less therma paste.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Between die an IHS or between IHS and heatsink base?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didn't disappear. It went _someplace_.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ihs and block base. And im telling you, it evaporated. It was missing, havent slipped from block to mobo or gpu but it was just missing.
Click to expand...

If your block base is copper, then likely became one with it. Cause no copper solid/liquid simply disappears. It went someplace. I would scrutinize every nook and cranny til I found out where it went since it is conductive.









~Ceadder


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If your block base is copper, then likely became one with it. Cause no copper solid/liquid simply disappears. It went someplace. I would scrutinize every nook and cranny til I found out where it went since it is conductive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


its not the coollabolatory stuff you think it is. Its silicon based crap, temps are very good after applying and first few months but it just evaporated.

http://www.coollaboratory.com/product/coollaboratory-liquid-copper/


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Your not suppose to use CLU between the block and IHS, only IHS and CPU Die. Is your CPU block copper I hope? CLU is made primarily from Gallium. It's an element and can't just disappear or evaporate


----------



## prznar1

It is not CLU, its silicon based liquid copper. Not Liquid ultra.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If your block base is copper, then likely became one with it. Cause no copper solid/liquid simply disappears. It went someplace. I would scrutinize every nook and cranny til I found out where it went since it is conductive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its not the coollabolatory stuff you think it is. Its silicon based crap, temps are very good after applying and first few months but it just evaporated.
> 
> http://www.coollaboratory.com/product/coollaboratory-liquid-copper/
Click to expand...

So likely it burnt away. Definitely didn't evaporate. But I guess one could say it did as there isn't much difference between the two.









Still, my OCD would have my system down for a while until I could be certain there would be no issues resulting from missing TIM.









~Ceadder


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> its not the coollabolatory stuff you think it is. Its silicon based crap, temps are very good after applying and first few months but it just evaporated.
> 
> http://www.coollaboratory.com/product/coollaboratory-liquid-copper/


I saw that the other day and thought about experimenting with it on die. Sounds like a big nope!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> its not the coollabolatory stuff you think it is. Its silicon based crap, temps are very good after applying and first few months but it just evaporated.
> 
> http://www.coollaboratory.com/product/coollaboratory-liquid-copper/


Actually, @Ceadderman's point is valid. While it is silicon based, it still contains copper particles suspended in the silicon the same way any TIM based on metals with a high melting temperature does. While the likelihood of something going wrong is lower than with gallium based TIM, the copper particles in it is still conductive. So it would not be a bad idea to figure out where those particles went (though they are most likely stuck to your heatspreader and block) since just a single particle of copper between some contact points on a CPU or the motherboard could cause disaster.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Actually, @Ceadderman's point is valid. While it is silicon based, it still contains copper particles suspended in the silicon the same way any TIM based on metals with a high melting temperature does. While the likelihood of something going wrong is lower than with gallium based TIM, the copper particles in it is still conductive. So it would not be a bad idea to figure out where those particles went (though they are most likely stuck to your heatspreader and block) since just a single particle of copper between some contact points on a CPU or the motherboard could cause disaster.


The problem is that all was left was that copper so i assume its the copper. Rest was gone. I had only few bits of dark brown paste. My pc is running fine. oh and block and ihs are all fine. No color change, no shape changed. Nothing. GTX 970 have no ihs and there are also no sings it did some dmg.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> The problem is that all was left was that copper. Rest was gone. I had only few bits of dark brown paste. My pc is running fine.


Sure, but I think the concern was that you would jsut assume that it was all gone. While in all reality it was simply the silicon blend that was gone. As long as you took the regular steps when cleaning the surfaces and it works as it should then there isn't really anything to worry about. Though I share your concern that the silicon simply evaporated (I'm actually curious as to what temperatures it takes to turn it in to a gas in the first place).

I actually contemplated on getting that specific paste a few weeks ago, but settled on the Kryonaut instead as I couldn't really find anything substantial about it (and what I did put it below something like Gelid extreme in perfomance).


----------



## bintang1180

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bintang1180*
> 
> just finished my build with ncase m1 v30
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> problems that occur in this case is room to use my hands so I can get into case.LOL
> .thanks
> Check my IG @bintang1180 for. Another picture


to anyone wanna see this ncase build process go mu youtube channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCspW7SV9y2wnigFBa2YLa0g
you can ask if u want thanks


----------



## Rayizdaman

This was my first computer build as well as first loop...


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayizdaman*
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first computer build as well as first loop...


nice! images are a little small and a bit low quality.. do you have a better camera on hand?
adjust the size of the picture on the BB CODE


----------



## andytom69

my new works ..work in progress on Manta mini Itx
Almost impossible to work inside this chassis



cooling 2x m2 samsung pci


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andytom69*
> 
> my new works ..work in progress on Manta mini Itx
> Almost impossible to work inside this chassis
> 
> 
> 
> cooling 2x m2 samsung pci


Why not run the CPU on the loop, it would make it easier to run the loop in that case. Plus compared to other itx cases the Manta has alot of room, of course the roomiest is the Define Nano S & S3


----------



## andytom69

Hello then you would put cpu and gpu in one loop?
Are you sure a 7700 and a 1080ti live well?
The manta case has 2 280 maximum workouts


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have a 5930k and a 1080 on a single loop being cooled by a single 360 so a 7700 and 1080Ti should be fine, and there has been 3 240's crammed into a Manta so I know there's room.

@MunneY worked w/ a shoe horn lol: http://www.overclock.net/t/1590524/sponsored-47-watercooled-nzxt-manta-z170-and-fury-x/40_40


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> its not the coollabolatory stuff you think it is. Its silicon based crap, temps are very good after applying and first few months but it just evaporated.
> 
> http://www.coollaboratory.com/product/coollaboratory-liquid-copper/


It doesnt evaporate,solids dont just vanish. More likely pump out,check around the socket.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> *Your not suppose to use CLU between the block and IHS, only IHS and CPU Die.* Is your CPU block copper I hope? CLU is made primarily from Gallium. It's an element and can't just disappear or evaporate


Untrue.

You can use CLU/P anywhere where its not in contact with Alu.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It doesnt evaporate,solids dont just vanish. More likely pump out,check around the socket.
> Untrue.
> 
> You can use CLU/P anywhere where its not in contact with Alu.


correct but I was trying to avoid that conversation.... That is why I asked if the block was copper. Although from what I have read (not personally tested) that on on block/IHS it doesn't have any dramatic impact on temps compared to Thermal Grizzly or other top TIM and considering how difficult it is to clean for remount that GENERALLY it's not recommended compared to a quality TIM... That was what I was trying to get at.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Solids don't evaporate, they sublimate into gases, and that could not have happened as your CPU would be dead if it hit temps required to turn copper into a gas. It likely just dried out or got spread too thin.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Revision of my first custom loop completed. Decided to nix the 120mm rad that was in the back. Not enough room to mount without putting the fan outside of the case and it wouldn't work in place of a 140mm fan slot at the bottom. Went with a horizontal mount so it can be seen through Fractal R5 window. Really wish the window was extended a bit more, but not worth taking a dremel to it lol





The 90° fittings really help keep it tidy and the water temp sensor is a nice addition. Forgot to get a male to male G 1/4 extender so I could mount a Y joint for a dedicated drain port X)


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> of course the roomiest is the Define Nano S & S3


I realize I'm not as skilled as many here, and I had heard about how roomy the Nano S was for an ITX build, but with my limited ability it was all I could do to cram a full loop in there. And this is with dual M.2 drives, I don't know where I would put a sata SSD or a HDD.


----------



## jon666

That looks beautiful. Why did I stick with soft tubing...


----------



## cmpxchg8b

^^ Man, I'm drooling so hard. SFF watercooled builds are special.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> Revision of my first custom loop completed. Decided to nix the 120mm rad that was in the back. Not enough room to mount without putting the fan outside of the case and it wouldn't work in place of a 140mm fan slot at the bottom. Went with a horizontal mount so it can be seen through Fractal R5 window. Really wish the window was extended a bit more, but not worth taking a dremel to it lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 90° fittings really help keep it tidy and the water temp sensor is a nice addition. Forgot to get a male to male G 1/4 extender so I could mount a Y joint for a dedicated drain port X)


I believe that I reversed the inlet and outlet ports on the CPU block and neglected to rotate it 180 degrees...

How detrimental to performance is this setup? Reading that it impairs turbulence and functioning of the jetplate

Gotta figure a way to flip the block after rebuilding


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I realize I'm not as skilled as many here, and I had heard about how roomy the Nano S was for an ITX build, but with my limited ability it was all I could do to cram a full loop in there. And this is with dual M.2 drives, I don't know where I would put a sata SSD or a HDD.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I mounted my 2.5's and a 3.5 on the rear of the Mobo tray (dual 2.5's on the mount given and the single 3.5 on the space given)

Still debating my next case, would build in a Nano S again but need a mITX x99 board, the ILM conversion for my Supremacy EVO block, and swap my memory for a 2 x 16GB DDR4 kit


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I mounted my 2.5's and a 3.5 on the rear of the Mobo tray (dual 2.5's on the mount given and the single 3.5 on the space given)


Mine is nearly a solid mass of cables behind the case divider, I removed all the mounts. No way to fit a 3.5 in the deep area near the front, I had hoped to tuck a slim optical drive in that space, just loose, that I could take the side off and access if needed, no room left. Plus my fill/drain port comes out right behind the res and that splits that area up. I might be able to Velcro a SATA SSD right behind the mobo area, it'd be tight, but I have a TB total in there now and that'll last a while.

I will say you have a lot more room in your Nano S


----------



## poisson21

Hello, i have just finish the first step of my new rig (i have yeet to change the gpu, i'll wait for the new amd one).
For some time i was tired of tring to fit everything in the case (even if it fit , i have https://www.aerocool.com.tw/en/chssis/pgs-b/xpredator-ii for this new rig) so i just put a big radiatator and the pump/reservoir outside with nearly 1.5m of tubing from the case.
It let me a lot of place in the tower to further customize it.
Next step will be rgb 140 mm fan if i can find ones that work with asus aura. (i already put led strip around the front fan of the case but native rgb fan are more beautiful , i think)


----------



## Dasandmancometh

I had to mod a black aquapipe and wanted to know what paint I can touch it up with that's safe for the loop?


----------



## 0mni

My very own 10-foot mod of a Watercooled PC and Case Mod. Finally got it off the cardboard box and into a case!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Man that's clean!


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Z87-WS, a solid choice. Top notch build!


----------



## Gabrielzm

For those about to spend (PPC discount code):

it's easy to think of Memorial Day as simply... an extra day off work... a three-day weekend. But, this day is meant to honor the men and women of the Armed Forces who gave their lives in the service of their country. Please do not forget our lost comrades in arms and the families of these brave souls that are left behind.

We offer a couple of coupons to use for this Holiday Weekend when you can shop in-between your barbecue and family gatherings:

*Spend $50 or more, get 10% off: "MEMDAY17-10"
*

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from *May 23rd through May 29th 2017.* One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGeNeSisx*
> 
> I believe that I reversed the inlet and outlet ports on the CPU block and neglected to rotate it 180 degrees...
> 
> How detrimental to performance is this setup? Reading that it impairs turbulence and functioning of the jetplate
> 
> Gotta figure a way to flip the block after rebuilding


Not a lot. I asked the same thing of ek in the predator thread and they said a couple degrees.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I had to mod a black aquapipe and wanted to know what paint I can touch it up with that's safe for the loop?


big fat black sharpie


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SycussMoO*
> 
> Nice love the effect that gives i might be borrowing that in the future... A++++ for look and it looks waaaaaaaaay better than what my CCFL does way more even distribution of light.


If you wanted to see, here's the end result of putting in the 144/m density rgbw (Neopixels) strips. I have it on white at 16% brightness. It gets blindingly bright.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> If you wanted to see, here's the end result of putting in the 144/m density rgbw (Neopixels) strips. I have it on white at 16% brightness. It gets blindingly bright.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That isn't a res anymore, it is an arc reactor.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> That isn't a res anymore, it is an arc reactor.


----------



## taowulf

You achieved criticality!

How much of that is bloom from the camera, and how much of that is "OH MY GOD, MY EYES?"


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Probably enough to stick a fork in your eye taowulf.


----------



## taowulf

That was my son threatening his eye with a fork, but point taken.


----------



## Rainmaker91

I have been looking for a while now but I can't find a store that stocks Koolance 80mm reservoirs, I found a few that does the 60mm one but no 80mm ones. I could always order directly from them, but the shipping is almost as much as the reservoir itself. I would go for some alternatives, but almost every 80mm reservoir uses the rod in the centre as a way of fitting it all together instead of the regular threaded cap method. Anyone know of a store in Europe that stocks this or at least a decent alternative?


----------



## alienalvan

Hi guys,

Quick question currently my i7 7700k overclocked to 4.7ghz with 1.225v and something seems strange to me whereby upon I'm inside bios my CPU temperature shows 33-35 Celsius and my water temperature around 30.5-31.5 Celsius.

But once I'm inside windows and monitor with hardware monitor software my CPU temp was 41-45 and water temperature also 30.5-31.5 Celsius, so I'm not sure whether that's normal or what?


----------



## poisson21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I have been looking for a while now but I can't find a store that stocks Koolance 80mm reservoirs, I found a few that does the 60mm one but no 80mm ones. I could always order directly from them, but the shipping is almost as much as the reservoir itself. I would go for some alternatives, but almost every 80mm reservoir uses the rod in the centre as a way of fitting it all together instead of the regular threaded cap method. Anyone know of a store in Europe that stocks this or at least a decent alternative?


You can try http://www.aquatuning.de/ i buy mine there and they ship outside germany at a fair price ( i'm from france).
And if you scroll up a bit you can see what i have done with it.

edit : http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/reservoirs/tubing-reservoirs/koolance-byo/


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> You can try http://www.aquatuning.de/ i buy mine there and they ship outside germany at a fair price ( i'm from france).
> And if you scroll up a bit you can see what i have done with it.
> 
> edit : http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/reservoirs/tubing-reservoirs/koolance-byo/


While they do have the tube itself I can't find the top and bottom cap there, so that leaves me with just a plastic tube (I actually buy tons of stuff from there to). Thanks for taking the time to loo for me though


----------



## havoc315

Ok so I got my pumps mounted, I decided to go at a 45° instead of having it horizontally but now I can't decide placement of the pump. I was thinking of three different options, One is mount it in the back, two is mount it under and behind the resivoir, three and my favorite but put it on top of the center piece and use the aqua tube to pull from the top of the res. If I do this I would turn the case on it's back so it would run to the pump then use the bottom to fill it.
Can do that without too many problems and any opinion on layout of the pumps or anything else.
I'm far from done I still have to redo the whole bottom, side and motherboard tray. This is a dual loop, with dual AQ D5, HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis 420GTX radiator on dual 1080 ti's and another HW 420 rad for mobo, cpu,and ram.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Ok so I got my pumps mounted, I decided to go at a 45° instead of having it horizontally but now I can't decide placement of the pump. I was thinking of three different options, One is mount it in the back, two is mount it under and behind the resivoir, three and my favorite but put it on top of the center piece and use the aqua tube to pull from the top of the res. If I do this I would turn the case on it's back so it would run to the pump then use the bottom to fill it
> Can do that without too many problems and what's you guys opinion on layout of the pumps and anything else.
> I'm far from done I still have to redo the whole bottom, side and motherboard tray.


Having them on top as in the first picture looks coolest, but I'm unsure how well that would work considering air bubbles (even if you use a way longer tube).


----------



## dwolvin

I like the behind/under option, but the top is pretty cool. Would the top pumps be taking water from the bottom of the res through the center tube? If so, how would the bubbles get separated?


----------



## Dasandmancometh

I had to mod a black aquapipe and wanted to know what paint I can touch it up with that's safe for the loop?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> big fat black sharpie


Thanks, but I'm looking for some paint products to keep the brass protected. Would acrylic paints works? Anyone?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I had to mod a black aquapipe and wanted to know what paint I can touch it up with that's safe for the loop?
> Thanks, but I'm looking for some paint products to keep the brass protected. Would acrylic paints works? Anyone?


Acrylic paint shouldn't affect anything in the loop, if anything it's the best paint to use on acrylic plastic. Though it won't handle high temperatures all that well, but other than that I don't think there should be any flaking issues either. So... just get a spray can of Acrylic paint.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Acrylic paint shouldn't affect anything in the loop, if anything it's the best paint to use on acrylic plastic. Though it won't handle high temperatures all that well, but other than that I don't think there should be any flaking issues either. So... just get a spray can of Acrylic paint.


Well it's going to be inside a res and not subjected to high heat. I mainly just wanted something to keep the brass from being directly open to the coolant in my otherwise nickle loop. I figured if Acrylic is ok for tubing then the paint should be good as well.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Well it's going to be inside a res and not subjected to high heat. I mainly just wanted something to keep the brass from being directly open to the coolant in my otherwise nickle loop. I figured if Acrylic is ok for tubing then the paint should be good as well.


It should be fine, there isn't really a lot of things that react to acrylic. Most spray cans that you get for cheap are also acrylic, but do make sure not to take one of those water based acrylic paints as I'm not entirely sure how that would hold up.


----------



## emsj86

Not sure but plastidip mY actually work for you


----------



## KaffieneKing

Should be fine mixing: nickel, brass, and copper together in a loop.


----------



## Andrew LB

I would avoid painting anything that comes in contact with the coolant and fluctuating temperatures because the paint is going to be a different hardness, and with enough repeat heating/cooling it will crack, then delaminate from the substrate. And this notion that if acrylic is good enough for tubing, its fine to use acrylic paint is going to get you into serious problems. Acrylic paints will blister and peel if left submerged in water for an extended period of time.

I would recommend checking out some aquarium forums if you want to find out what holds up while submerged in water.. A number of years ago i was helping a friend with his aquarium and i recall having to use a Urethane sealer on anything he painted, and they had to fully cure prior to use. A quick google search showed that some guys use krylon fusion paint, which iirc is an "acrylic alkyd enamel" type of paint. Whatever you use, test it outside your loop beforehand.


----------



## Revan654

You should never paint anything inside the loop, You maybe be ok if it's powder coated, Still not 100% sure if it would be ok or not. I wanted a few objects painted in my loop, it's not worth the risk if the paint starts to flake & decides to clog up the waterblocks or tubing.

You are introducing more chemicals into the loops & have no idea effect they will have of copper & such.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

I guess maybe I'll just have to get them powdercoated, would be the best way to avoid any issues.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I guess maybe I'll just have to get them powdercoated, would be the best way to avoid any issues.


Good luck, Powder coating is not cheap. Some places will not powder coat unless it's a decent sized project. I only know of one place around me that will do small item in whatever color you want.


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> I like the behind/under option, but the top is pretty cool. Would the top pumps be taking water from the bottom of the res through the center tube? If so, how would the bubbles get separated?


I would be pulling water from the top do feed the pump, I have a aqua tube that goes into my res about 1/3rd of the res size. I'm thinking that it should be ok but j might wait and just put them on the bottom because this is the first time in going through this much running and rad space and it makes me unsure of how much power these D5s can put out.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Good luck, Powder coating is not cheap. Some places will not powder coat unless it's a decent sized project. I only know of one place around me that will do small item in whatever color you want.


I got a guy that'll do these for free probably if he's got an batch of that color he's got coming up.

I was really hoping to avoid that wait time though. I may just try some ceramic paint and heat cure it, that would probably work.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I have a buddy who used to powder coat stuff in his garage in an old oven - you don't want to use it for food afterwards so don't do it in the kitchen. The little puffer gun (not sure what it's called, it just puffs out a cloud of powder) and power supply for the electrostatic charge weren't expensive, seems like the powder was the more expensive part. Probable info that's of little use for a one-off application, but a dedicated modder might get some use from it. I have a guy that does professional powder coating nearby, he does some jobs for us here at work, but small items he will wait until he has enough to justify firing his oven up


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> I would be pulling water from the top do feed the pump, I have a aqua tube that goes into my res about 1/3rd of the res size. I'm thinking that it should be ok but j might wait and just put them on the bottom because this is the first time in going through this much running and rad space and it makes me unsure of how much power these D5s can put out.


Ah- then I'd put the pumps under, it will be hard to prime them on top!


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> You achieved criticality!
> 
> How much of that is bloom from the camera, and how much of that is "OH MY GOD, MY EYES?"


Honestly I have no idea. The leds themselves are bright enough for you to avert your eyes, but not when they're behind that but it comes really close to making you want to. I'm using my cell phone and the android app (it's all I have). If I focus on the reservoir, then the only thing visible is the light. I focused it on the cables so you could actually see the other components. How much light is captured is automatic, but I can tell you it's brighter than what is actually seen in person. The tension bars in front are still visible to the eye.

It's hard to show what the light really looks like since ccds don't capture light the same way our eyes do. This photo shows it with the focus on the wall, where the room light is accurate to what is seen. The reservoir is still saturating the ccd. The reflection in the desk is probably a better representation of what it actually looks like, although imagine that it's on the verge of making you squint.


----------



## taowulf

The reflection in that last pic might be the most accurate.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I have a buddy who used to powder coat stuff in his garage in an old oven - you don't want to use it for food afterwards so don't do it in the kitchen. The little puffer gun (not sure what it's called, it just puffs out a cloud of powder) and power supply for the electrostatic charge weren't expensive, seems like the powder was the more expensive part. Probable info that's of little use for a one-off application, but a dedicated modder might get some use from it. I have a guy that does professional powder coating nearby, he does some jobs for us here at work, but small items he will wait until he has enough to justify firing his oven up


My buddy owns his own business, has a oven the size of a single car garage. I'm sure he would do these four little pieces for me as long as I waited until he had a batch of that color he was running for a job.


----------



## DarthPeanut

Finally got the last 90 degree piece of glass I needed so I could remove the flexible temp tube I had.

Filled and leak tested (pic was taken just before that point)... gtg on that. Up and running at the moment testing a bit before I put the case back together (NZXT 450).


----------



## Knightly McNutt

Looks awesome. Super tight though!


----------



## Knightly McNutt

Alot of people that shoot lead bullets powder coat their lead cast bullets. You can buy powder coat at Harbor Freight and other hardware stores and do some light research, just have to find a usable oven.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knightly McNutt*
> 
> Alot of people that shoot lead bullets powder coat their lead cast bullets. You can buy powder coat at Harbor Freight and other hardware stores and do some light research, just have to find a usable oven.


On that note DO NOT USE A POWDERCOAT OVEN FOR FOOD EVER AGAIN.... That said you can also look at KG Coat, Ceracoat, Duracoat, and Brownells Aluma-Hyde... they are all epoxy/ceramic coatings and some of them don't need to be baked (Air Cure) all have been used on guns with good results and durability.


----------



## andytom69

My little big project ..
https://youtu.be/YBL-XPAvAWg


----------



## hrockh

bugger! I bent a couple of pins 1/3 on the way top.. how bad is it?

EDIT

I managed to fix those pictured in the first photo, but I can't find a way to fix this one.. any idea?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mechanical Pencil/Empty BIC pen, normally I use tweezers


----------



## Dagamus NM

Yep, tweezers and magnifying glass. If they are just twisted then simply twist them back. If they are bent to where they are not up at the same height as the others you will need something to bend them over the give them back their spring. Have to make sure that when compressed the pins won't bend and move laterally coming into contact with the other pins.

Small paperclip is good for bending over. Lead from a mechanical pencil is less likely to damage something else though.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthPeanut*
> 
> Finally got the last 90 degree piece of glass I needed so I could remove the flexible temp tube I had.
> 
> Filled and leak tested (pic was taken just before that point)... gtg on that. Up and running at the moment testing a bit before I put the case back together (NZXT 450).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks great!


----------



## saint19

Hi guys.

I was looking around this thread and in just a second a questions cames to my mind.

Around 2010 I bought a Swiftech d5 vario and until now has been working excellent but...for how long? What life life expectation is the standard for this model?


----------



## poisson21

Like many others pump in the spec sheet, it said it have a life expectancy of more than 50 000 hours, with a 24/7 rig it's nearly 5 years and 8 months so it can work for a very long time depending of your use.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-motor-laing-d5-vario-motor


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> Like many others pump in the spec sheet, it said it have a life expectancy of more than 50 000 hours, with a 24/7 rig it's nearly 5 years and 8 months so it can work for a very long time depending of your use.


I assume that means it's going to be close to 10-15 years if you actually turn your computer off when not using it, though I'm unsure how much the o-rings will degrade over the years and all that.


----------



## saint19

Thanks for the answer, I am safe since my rig is turned off if it is not in use.


----------



## garyd9

Here's the D5 and reservoir installed. Not much room in this Corsair 460X RGB case, and the silly video card gets in the way as well. As you can see, I made a massive mess of the tubing, and I'll clearly have to re-do it so it doesn't look like a colony of worms got into a fight with a bowl of spaghetti.

I'm really considering hard tubing, but I already have more changes planned, so it wouldn't make sense yet. (Planned: Replacing the radiator with something more efficient, adding a block to the video card, and possibly adding a 240mm rad to the top of the case if the video card adds too much heat to the water.)

As you can see, there are still some air bubbles sticking to the sides of the reservoir... I'm also thinking of replacing one of the bottom plugs in the res with a monsoon light plug. (or, perhaps just a short white LED strip behind the res.)

I never really planned on a "blue" theme for the case, but performance-pcs didn't have any clear coolant concentrate, so I figured the blue stuff looks more "watery" than other colors. Then I had to adjust my fan and LED strips to match.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Here's the D5 and reservoir installed. Not much room in this Corsair 460X RGB case, and the silly video card gets in the way as well. As you can see, I made a massive mess of the tubing, and I'll clearly have to re-do it so it doesn't look like a colony of worms got into a fight with a bowl of spaghetti.
> 
> I'm really considering hard tubing, but I already have more changes planned, so it wouldn't make sense yet. (Planned: Replacing the radiator with something more efficient, adding a block to the video card, and possibly adding a 240mm rad to the top of the case if the video card adds too much heat to the water.)
> 
> As you can see, there are still some air bubbles sticking to the sides of the reservoir... I'm also thinking of replacing one of the bottom plugs in the res with a monsoon light plug. (or, perhaps just a short white LED strip behind the res.)
> 
> I never really planned on a "blue" theme for the case, but performance-pcs didn't have any clear coolant concentrate, so I figured the blue stuff looks more "watery" than other colors. Then I had to adjust my fan and LED strips to match.


Adding the video card to that loop will most likely help a lot in the tubing mess as you called it. If you do go for a top radiator then perhaps a cross flow radiator would help with some of the tubing runs. Otherwise I really do love how non pastel fluid looks when lit up, so I think this looks great no matter how the tube runs go


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Here's the D5 and reservoir installed. Not much room in this Corsair 460X RGB case, and the silly video card gets in the way as well. As you can see, I made a massive mess of the tubing, and I'll clearly have to re-do it so it doesn't look like a colony of worms got into a fight with a bowl of spaghetti.
> 
> I'm really considering hard tubing, but I already have more changes planned, so it wouldn't make sense yet. (Planned: Replacing the radiator with something more efficient, adding a block to the video card, and possibly adding a 240mm rad to the top of the case if the video card adds too much heat to the water.)
> 
> As you can see, there are still some air bubbles sticking to the sides of the reservoir... I'm also thinking of replacing one of the bottom plugs in the res with a monsoon light plug. (or, perhaps just a short white LED strip behind the res.)
> 
> I never really planned on a "blue" theme for the case, but performance-pcs didn't have any clear coolant concentrate, so I figured the blue stuff looks more "watery" than other colors. Then I had to adjust my fan and LED strips to match.


Yeah I've seen a lot worse tubing runs than that. Looks pretty good to me. The angled fittings make all the difference in the world.

Thanks for the pic too. That case is on the short list for when I change cases and it's good to know that the res will fit above the gpu.

I have the combo xres D5 140 but a simple swap of the pump top and I can seperate the pump and res.


----------



## DarthPeanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knightly McNutt*
> 
> Looks awesome. Super tight though!


Thank you and yes it is a tight fit with this setup all in a mid tower nzxt 450. The 2x 360 rads (1 PE and 1 thicker XE) is the absolute limit I could fit. The radiators have only a couple mm of clearance between them at the top/ front area they overlap.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That looks great!


Thank you! I need to take some proper pics with the skins all back on the case and such.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Yep, tweezers and magnifying glass. If they are just twisted then simply twist them back. If they are bent to where they are not up at the same height as the others you will need something to bend them over the give them back their spring. Have to make sure that when compressed the pins won't bend and move laterally coming into contact with the other pins.
> 
> Small paperclip is good for bending over. Lead from a mechanical pencil is less likely to damage something else though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Mechanical Pencil/Empty BIC pen, normally I use tweezers


Thank you for your answer.
The bottom pin was so bent there was nothing I could do. If you can spot it, the top of the pin folded on itself. how did that happen, it will always be a mystery. I did try to unfold it, but ended up breaking the pin.
Tried to use the mobo again, the LED on MEM OK is stuck on red and nothing is displayed. Relatively old (3 yrs) mobo, I'm not too sad about it. Lesson learned.

On another topic, I got the EK PUMP + reservoirs combo and it's doing well. You can get a mount that will go on any fans and will hold the pump in place, either vertically of horizontally.
What if I want to mount the pump vertically on a horizontal bottom mounted rad?


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> What if I want to mount the pump vertically on a horizontal bottom mounted rad?


The "vertical" mount has pump mounting points for either vertical or horizontal mounting of the pump, so it might be possible to just use the "vertical" mount on a horizontally mounted fan.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> The "vertical" mount has pump mounting points for either vertical or horizontal mounting of the pump, so it might be possible to just use the "vertical" mount on a horizontally mounted fan.


thanks. but I would like to mount it on a radiator, not on a fan.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> Thank you for your answer.
> The bottom pin was so bent there was nothing I could do. If you can spot it, the top of the pin folded on itself. how did that happen, it will always be a mystery. I did try to unfold it, but ended up breaking the pin.
> Tried to use the mobo again, the LED on MEM OK is stuck on red and nothing is displayed. Relatively old (3 yrs) mobo, I'm not too sad about it. Lesson learned.
> 
> *On another topic, I got the EK PUMP + reservoirs combo and it's doing well. You can get a mount that will go on any fans and will hold the pump in place, either vertically of horizontally.
> What if I want to mount the pump vertically on a horizontal bottom mounted rad?*


As long as the spacing for the mount would fit a 120mm fan, then why wouldn't it mount to a 120mm rad spacing?

TCO


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> As long as the spacing for the mount would fit a 120mm fan, then why wouldn't it mount to a 120mm rad spacing?
> 
> TCO


in the horizontal mount you get screw + bolt that would fit on a fan.
these would not fit through the tapped holes in the rad

EDIT
these will solve the problem.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/XSPC-Radiator-Screw-6-32UNC-Black/dp/B009TBPOL6


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> in the horizontal mount you get screw + bolt that would fit on a fan.
> these would not fit through the tapped holes in the rad
> 
> EDIT
> these will solve the problem.
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/XSPC-Radiator-Screw-6-32UNC-Black/dp/B009TBPOL6


So this would work for you by getting new screws, yes?

TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> in the horizontal mount you get screw + bolt that would fit on a fan.
> these would not fit through the tapped holes in the rad
> 
> EDIT
> these will solve the problem.
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/XSPC-Radiator-Screw-6-32UNC-Black/dp/B009TBPOL6
> 
> 
> 
> So this would work for you by getting new screws, yes?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I have an EK fan to pump bracket, it would indeed work with 3mm length screws. Would need washers if using the 5mm length screws. The only problem I see with the horizontal bracket is cabling or Vario. Cables could theoretically run into the Rad surface (in the case of AC pumps) and you won't have access to the Vario selector knob on a vertical mounted Rad.

But everything else should be okay.









5mm w/o washers would be bad juju. My SE rad got a little pinched in the corners because I didn't think to put washers under the screws when I was test fitting it to the top peel of my case. So I will have to pull the casing to fix those points of contact. Thankfully EK rads can be disassembled to gain access to the core.









I need a 21mm hex key for that iirc?









~Ceadder


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have an EK fan to pump bracket, it would indeed work with 3mm length screws. Would need washers if using the 5mm length screws.


The funny thing is that I never considered the screw lengths. I always just use the screws that come with the rad when mounting brackets.

On my SE360, the 12 long screws are used to sandwich fans between the rad and case, and 8 of the shorter screws are being used to support a pump bracket (near the bottom) and a universal bracket on the top that my res is mounted to. I actually see for the longer screws, but the shorter ones aren't reaching to the core.

As well, the EK radiators appear to have massive "shroud" areas (gap between the radiator frame and the actual core) of several millimeters, so there's a large margin for error on screw lengths.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So this would work for you by getting new screws, yes?
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have an EK fan to pump bracket, it would indeed work with 3mm length screws. Would need washers if using the 5mm length screws. The only problem I see with the horizontal bracket is cabling or Vario. Cables could theoretically run into the Rad surface (in the case of AC pumps) and you won't have access to the Vario selector knob on a vertical mounted Rad.
> 
> But everything else should be okay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5mm w/o washers would be bad juju. My SE rad got a little pinched in the corners because I didn't think to put washers under the screws when I was test fitting it to the top peel of my case. So I will have to pull the casing to fix those points of contact. Thankfully EK rads can be disassembled to gain access to the core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need a 21mm hex key for that iirc?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The compromises you mentioned are fine with me. New to watercooling, but so far I left the D5 Vario on 2, seems fine. Might move it to 1, test the temps.. I shall see.
Yeah, getting some new screws seems the better option. It's only a quid, I have piles of washers, I'll use them. thanks guys


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> The compromises you mentioned are fine with me. New to watercooling, but so far I left the D5 Vario on 2, seems fine. Might move it to 1, test the temps.. I shall see.
> Yeah, getting some new screws seems the better option. *It's only a quid*, I have piles of washers, I'll use them. thanks guys


Good luck champ and have fun.

TCO


----------



## madmeatballs

Which is a more common size for hard tube fittings? 12mm, 14mm or 16mm?


----------



## dallas1990

after 4 rum and cokes and 6 hours granted cause i kept messing up lol i redid my loop to allow a 2nd zotac 1080ti. going to start overclocking my 6800k. as of now its at 3.4ghz at 33-34 degrees with a ambient temp of 26. it has a 3x140mm rad cant remember thickness i want to say 35-40mm. and a old 240mm rad from the old swiftech h240 AIO few years back. i used soft tubing cause i dont have the precision to do hard tubing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Which is a more common size for hard tube fittings? 12mm, 14mm or 16mm?


12 and 16mm

TCO


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Does anyone here know someone at Watercool ? ... ... I have waited over 2 months now for a res from PPCs and the only feedback they can give me is that Watercool is out of stock and there is no feedback from them ...

This seems rather excessive


----------



## prznar1

Write to watercool directly. They are fast to replay. Asked them few things and response was fast, sometimes same day (if you have send the mail in the morning) or next day.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Write to watercool directly. They are fast to replay. Asked them few things and response was fast, sometimes same day (if you have send the mail in the morning) or next day.


Sent them a mail a week ago and no response


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Sent them a mail a week ago and no response


Do it again, maybe they have missed it. Spam etc. you know, **** happens.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Does anyone here know someone at Watercool ? ... ... I have waited over 2 months now for a res from PPCs and the only feedback they can give me is that Watercool is out of stock and there is no feedback from them ...
> 
> This seems rather excessive


http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/0_30
Watercool-jakob is very active there and extremely helpful


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Do it again, maybe they have missed it. Spam etc. you know, **** happens.


I know, but I also know that if you spam people they tend to not want to help you

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/0_30
> Watercool-jakob is very active there and extremely helpful


Thanks so much, this is exactly what I was hoping for ... you rock


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 12 and 16mm
> 
> TCO


Thanks! Any difference between the two?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I know, but I also know that if you spam people they tend to not want to help you
> Thanks so much, this is exactly what I was hoping for ... you rock


Glad to help! I need to get over there and find out when ppcs is getting more 1080/1070/titanx backplates
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Thanks! Any difference between the two?


about 4mm.... but seriously not really. 16mm fittings/tube usually cost a little more and will have a wider bend radius. I personally use 14mm, its harder to find fittings/tube but I like the look.


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Glad to help! I need to get over there and find out when ppcs is getting more 1080/1070/titanx backplates
> about 4mm.... but seriously not really. 16mm fittings/tube usually cost a little more and will have a wider bend radius. I personally use 14mm, its harder to find fittings/tube but I like the look.










knew someone was going to mention that LOL. Anyway, thanks! I'm planning on a copper tubing build, couldn't find 14mm tubes, managed to find 16mm ones though.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> knew someone was going to mention that LOL. Anyway, thanks! I'm planning on a copper tubing build, couldn't find 14mm tubes, managed to find 16mm ones though.


I tried not to, but the bad joke was too strong







Copper tubing looks amazing! I've been going back and forth between frosted acrylic and copper. Already got the acrylic so I'll probably try that first.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> knew someone was going to mention that LOL. Anyway, thanks! I'm planning on a copper tubing build, couldn't find 14mm tubes, managed to find 16mm ones though.


You never mentioned copper. If you have found 16mm copper tubing to use in your expected build there won't be a problem finding fittings.









I use 12mm tubing and fittings only.

TCO


----------



## garyd9

...drained the loop to fix the tubing. For some reason, I don't like seeing tubes cross each other (at least for soft tubing.) While messing with it, I also tried to stick a monsoon light plug in the bottom of the reservoir. After leaving it on for 5 minutes (while leak checking the loop), I nearly burned my finger touching it. It was VERY hot... too hot for my comfort. So, re-drained, pulled the light plug back back out and put the cheap black EK plastic plug back in the res.

I'll need to get another LED strip to cut down and place behind the reservoir. Otherwise, I'm done messing with the loop (this week.) By Father's Day, I'm sure my wife/kids will have given me a reason to drain it again.

To get the full effect of how this looks with my fan animation, take a look at the video link (below the still image):


----------



## emsj86

that actually looks pretty cool, not really into rgb but that looks cool


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> ...drained the loop to fix the tubing. For some reason, I don't like seeing tubes cross each other (at least for soft tubing.) While messing with it, I also tried to stick a monsoon light plug in the bottom of the reservoir. After leaving it on for 5 minutes (while leak checking the loop), I nearly burned my finger touching it. It was VERY hot... too hot for my comfort. So, re-drained, pulled the light plug back back out and put the cheap black EK plastic plug back in the res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll need to get another LED strip to cut down and place behind the reservoir. Otherwise, I'm done messing with the loop (this week.) By Father's Day, I'm sure my wife/kids will have given me a reason to drain it again.
> 
> To get the full effect of how this looks with my fan animation, take a look at the video link (below the still image):


I guess you could say I'm quite a Fan of your lighting effects in your build.








Cool effect, really like it!


----------



## DevilGear44

Spent the better part of week figuring out how to fit 960mm worth of rads and 2 pumps into a Parvum M1.0.


----------



## dwolvin

Rads, I get, the pumps I don't... Is it front rad - res - double DCC?

Awesome setup at any rate!


----------



## DevilGear44

If you're talking about me....

It's 360 rad, rez, 2 DDCs', then a 240 on bottom, up to the 120m on the back, to the 240mm on the top, then to cpu block, gpu block, then back to the 360mm.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd say that's Rad overkill


----------



## Lee0

So, I'm building a custom loop. Soon I'll be purchasing these parts that I'll list. I asked advice earlier for my list and I have since reviewed my water-cooling components parts list, switched out some and added some new, based on reviews from other sites and your guys feedback. Here's my current list:

Raystorm Pro CPU block - white
Heatkiller IV Titan X (old *P*ascal) GPU block - With backplate
2 pcs - XSPC AX360 v3 360mm Radiator - white
12 pcs - EK-ACF 10/13mm Fitting - white
EK-Duraclear 12,7/9,5mm Tubing
6 Noiseblocker eLoop B12-2 fans 120mm
EK-vario d5 pump
Bitspower d5 "mod kit" - white
Heatkiller 200mm Tube reservoir (standard edition, not d5 nor ddc) - With mounting hardware
2 pcs - EK-Cryofuel concentrate 90ml - clear
This is all going in to the "Be quiet Darkbase 900 pro" in an x99 system.








I've some questions:

Are any of my water-cooling parts bad, or have a bad reputation?
Are any of them incompatible with each other?
Are 2 360mm rads to overkill for an overclocked 5960x and Titan X? Could I be fine with only 1 360mm and 1 240mm rad?
Can the massive heatkiller reservoir be mounted on my front 360mm radiator if I have the heatkiller basic ABG kit + 120mm fan adapter for it?
That's all I was wondering. Please let me know if you've any suggestions to what I should/ can change, as this is a very expensive loop and I don't want to blow my money on something crap or incompatible.
Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'd say that's Rad overkill


No such animal as "overkill". This is OCN after all.









It may be a bit much for cooling surface, but need is all in the eye of the beholder. More short runs of tubing may be what he wants over lengthier runs required by one 360.









~Ceadder


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> So, I'm building a custom loop. Soon I'll be purchasing these parts that I'll list. I asked advice earlier for my list and I have since reviewed my water-cooling components parts list, switched out some and added some new, based on reviews from other sites and your guys feedback. Here's my current list:
> 
> Raystorm Pro CPU block - white
> Heatkiller IV Titan X (old *P*ascal) GPU block - With backplate
> 2 pcs - XSPC AX360 v3 360mm Radiator - white
> 12 pcs - EK-ACF 10/13mm Fitting - white
> EK-Duraclear 12,7/9,5mm Tubing
> 6 Noiseblocker eLoop B12-2 fans 120mm
> *EK-vario d5 pump*
> *Bitspower d5 "mod kit" - white*
> Heatkiller 200mm Tube reservoir (standard edition, not d5 nor ddc) - With mounting hardwareThis is all going in to the "Be quiet Darkbase 900 pro" in an x99 system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've some questions:
> Are any of my water-cooling parts bad, or have a bad reputation?
> Are any of them incompatible with each other?
> 2 pcs - EK-Cryofuel concentrate 90ml - clear
> 
> Are 2 360mm rads to overkill for an overclocked 5960x and Titan X? Could I be fine with only 1 360mm and 1 240mm rad?
> Can the massive heatkiller reservoir be mounted on my front 360mm radiator if I have the heatkiller basic ABG kit + 120mm fan adapter for it?
> That's all I was wondering. Please let me know if you've any suggestions to what I should/ can change, as this is a very expensive loop and I don't want to blow my money on something crap or incompatible.
> Thanks!


The Bitspower mod kits only work with bitspower pump tops . .

EK has a dress up shell for the D5, but it only works with some of their pump tops, so double check how you want to proceed in the aesthetics department


----------



## Trestles126

few final pics of my S8/clockwerks industries build. jim did all the custom waterplates and reservoirs. dual loops one for gpus and the other for cpu mosfet and ram. Dual 360s dedicated to each loop. under full load playing games like DS3 and battlefield 1 the cpu doesnt get over 40 and the gpus stay around 30.


----------



## Yukss

Little to bright leed strip under my gtx 1080.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*
> 
> Spent the better part of week figuring out how to fit 960mm worth of rads and 2 pumps into a Parvum M1.0.


Nice. I crammed similar radspace into my midtower using 140mm rads.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Noob question, I know most of you recommend a D5 over a DDC, is there really that much of a difference in reliability ?

I was going to go with the Heatkiller Res + D5 but since that isn't available and I am tired of waiting for stock (2 months already) I was looking at swapping it for an EK-DDC 3.25 + Bitspower 400 Upgrade kit and a Bitspower Heatsink. Would that still be fine for a HL GTR360 + HL GTS240 and 2 blocks.

(would have preferred a 300 upgrade kit, but I can't find it on PPCs)

Regards


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Noob question, I know most of you recommend a D5 over a DDC, is there really that much of a difference in reliability ?
> 
> I was going to go with the Heatkiller Res + D5 but since that isn't available and I am tired of waiting for stock (2 months already) I was looking at swapping it for an EK-DDC 3.25 + Bitspower 400 Upgrade kit and a Bitspower Heatsink. Would that still be fine for a HL GTR360 + HL GTS240 and 2 blocks.
> 
> (would have preferred a 300 upgrade kit, but I can't find it on PPCs)
> 
> Regards


The reason why D5 is recommended more is it is quieter and has more flow vs DDC is smaller and more head pressure. Since most loops are not restrictive enough to need the added head pressure and usually if it is space is not an issue... so people default to quieter.

If space is a concern go DDC if not most would say D5. Both pumps are reliable


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> The reason why D5 is recommended more is it is quieter and has more flow vs DDC is smaller and more head pressure. Since most loops are not restrictive enough to need the added head pressure and usually if it is space is not an issue... so people default to quieter.
> 
> If space is a concern go DDC if not most would say D5. Both pumps are reliable


Thanks very much for the information







...

Space is a little bit of a concern, but I can always change the mounting position if needed. but if they are both reliable, then I will just swap over to the DDC so I can get delivery.

Correct me if I am wrong but this is all I will need:

EK DDC 3.25 Pump
Bitspower Premium Laing DDC Top (which I almost forgot)
Bitspower Upgrade kit
Bitspower Heatsink
EK Vibration Dampening Kit.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks very much for the information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Space is a little bit of a concern, but I can always change the mounting position if needed. but if they are both reliable, then I will just swap over to the DDC so I can get delivery.
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong but this is all I will need:
> 
> EK DDC 3.25 Pump
> Bitspower Premium Laing DDC Top (which I almost forgot)
> Bitspower Upgrade kit
> Bitspower Heatsink
> EK Vibration Dampening Kit.


Looks ok to me but I will let others double check as I have always used D5. That said also make sure there is airflow with the DDC since it is air cooled by the heatsink


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> So, I'm building a custom loop. Soon I'll be purchasing these parts that I'll list. I asked advice earlier for my list and I have since reviewed my water-cooling components parts list, switched out some and added some new, based on reviews from other sites and your guys feedback. Here's my current list:
> 
> Raystorm Pro CPU block - white
> Heatkiller IV Titan X (old *P*ascal) GPU block - With backplate
> 2 pcs - XSPC AX360 v3 360mm Radiator - white
> 12 pcs - EK-ACF 10/13mm Fitting - white
> EK-Duraclear 12,7/9,5mm Tubing
> 6 Noiseblocker eLoop B12-2 fans 120mm
> EK-vario d5 pump
> 
> Bitspower d5 "mod kit" - white
> Heatkiller 200mm Tube reservoir (standard edition, not d5 nor ddc) - With mounting hardware
> 2 pcs - EK-Cryofuel concentrate 90ml - clear
> This is all going in to the "Be quiet Darkbase 900 pro" in an x99 system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've some questions:
> 
> Are any of my water-cooling parts bad, or have a bad reputation?
> Are any of them incompatible with each other?
> Are 2 360mm rads to overkill for an overclocked 5960x and Titan X? Could I be fine with only 1 360mm and 1 240mm rad?
> Can the massive heatkiller reservoir be mounted on my front 360mm radiator if I have the heatkiller basic ABG kit + 120mm fan adapter for it?
> That's all I was wondering. Please let me know if you've any suggestions to what I should/ can change, as this is a very expensive loop and I don't want to blow my money on something crap or incompatible.
> Thanks!


As ItDiva has said, the bitspower D5 Mod kit - white ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-d5-mcp655-mod-kit-deluxe-white-finish.html ) is just an add on part and only works with bitspower pump tops, like this one ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-d5-mod-top-black-s-model.html ), Or with the factory Laing/Xylem pump top.
So, if the EK pump you have listed is the standard Laing top version or a bare pump it will be compatible but not if its one of the EK Xtop versions. Like this ( https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump )
I assume it is the bare pump version because I don't think they sell the vario any other way anymore. In which case you still need a pump top.
The BP mod top and mod kit combined look like this ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/performance-pcs-uber-655-fully-modded-d5-12-vdc-water-pump-white.html )
They also have a new version ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-d5-mod-top-g1-4-abrasive-white-pom-version.html ) that combines pump top and cover instead of selling them separately.


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> As ItDiva has said, the bitspower D5 Mod kit - white ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-d5-mcp655-mod-kit-deluxe-white-finish.html ) is just an add on part and only works with bitspower pump tops, like this one ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-d5-mod-top-black-s-model.html ), Or with the factory Laing/Xylem pump top.
> So, if the EK pump you have listed is the standard Laing top version or a bare pump it will be compatible but not if its one of the EK Xtop versions. I assume it is the bare pump version because I don't think they sell the vario any other way anymore. In which case you still need a pump top.
> The BP mod top and mod kit combined look like this ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/performance-pcs-uber-655-fully-modded-d5-12-vdc-water-pump-white.html )
> They also have a new version ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-d5-mod-top-g1-4-abrasive-white-pom-version.html )


Ahh, ok Thank you. The webshop I was using was a bit misleading then. I have changed it out for the Bitspower D5 MOD TOP S-Model G1/4 - Plexi Bitspower D5 MOD TOP S-Model G1/4 - Plexi. And as I understand it, the "d5 mod top" contains all the necessary parts for the d5 to function and to be mounted. Thanks yet again!


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> Ahh, ok Thank you. The webshop I was using was a bit misleading then. I have changed it out for the Bitspower D5 MOD TOP S-Model G1/4 - Plexi Bitspower D5 MOD TOP S-Model G1/4 - Plexi. And as I understand it, the "d5 mod top" contains all the necessary parts for the d5 to function and to be mounted. Thanks yet again!


Actually, the mod top requires a pump retention ring of some sort. It can use the ring the comes with the factory Laing top, or the Mod kit covers. If you buy a bare pump it does not come with a retention ring. You also need a mount of some kind, like this ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-d5-pump-mounting-bracket-matte-black.html )

This is the factory ring ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/d5-pump-replacement-parts-kit.html )

The older bitspower kits are designed to modify a standard Laing pump and top.
So you start out with a standard Laing pump and top

and add the *Mod Top*

That uses the factory stand and retention ring
then add the *Mod Kit*

replaces the standard plastic retention ring for a metal cover.

If you start with a bare pump

you also need to add the pump stand and mount


The Deluxe pump top kit comes with everything you need instead of multiple kits like the older version.


and of course other brands also include all you need, plus they perform better. The Bitspower top has been tested to actually reduce pump performance compared to factory instead of improving it like nearly all other brands do.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/po8RA480j

Grabbed some Bitspower tubing.


----------



## Ashcroft

What fittings are those?


----------



## Deeptek

Nanoxia's CoolForce fittings


----------



## khemist

What he said.


----------



## dwolvin

Beautiful rig! Whazza zip tie in the upper right corner for (in front of the Riing)?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks very much for the information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Space is a little bit of a concern, but I can always change the mounting position if needed. but if they are both reliable, then I will just swap over to the DDC so I can get delivery.
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong but this is all I will need:
> 
> EK DDC 3.25 Pump
> Bitspower Premium Laing DDC Top (which I almost forgot)
> Bitspower Upgrade kit
> Bitspower Heatsink
> EK Vibration Dampening Kit.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks ok to me but I will let others double check as I have always used D5. That said also make sure there is airflow with the DDC since it is air cooled by the heatsink
Click to expand...

Make sure those cables don't get pinched by the heatsink.

Apologies for Jayz2cents reference, but he posted a vid about heatsink pinching off his cables and shorting his pumps.

The threat is real and I forget if it was BP or another brand. I just remember seeing what it did to his cables. They were noticeably flat where the heatsink met the impeller casing.

DDC are pretty reliable compared to the reliability of D5 pumps. As was stated you just want to mount them where there is an abundance of air flowing over them. I had mine mounted at the opposite side of my HDD rack in front of a 230mm fan with no drive in that location. Kept them both pretty cool with the stock cases. Didn't have an aftermarket heatsink. Of course mine were 1T models with no PWM so they don't produce the same kind of heat a 3.25 does.

Just make sure those cables don't get pinched warranty will not cover a burnt pump replacement.









~Ceadder


----------



## alienalvan

Redo my water loop with new casing & radiators...


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> ...


I don't think we're talking about the same bitspower kit again... Their product naming is really bad like many other companies. I am talking about a kit that looks like this


And the d5 that i'm buying looks like this:


Why I chose the bitspower top is because don't really like the EK tops looks and where I'm shopping (EU, Germany based store) the selection of d5 tops is limited.
And to be frank I am not subjective towards bitspower if that's what you're thinking. In fact, I've never owned one of their products.
All I have to choose from is

Bitspower mod top s-model
EK BAY RES
Other RES d5 mounts ( dont want any reservoirs attached to my d5
Alphacool VPP655 -G1/4 Eisdecke D5 Plexi V.3
EK XTOP revo
If I don't get any of these my only other option is to go DDC or eheim ( i might be interested in Eheim actually but I lack information about those).
What do you think?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Not usually a fan of monoblocks, but they look good on ITX - at least IMO. Seems like the contact with the CPU isn't quite right, so we'll see if it stays or I go with just the CPU block only.









Looks purdy though.


----------



## ruffhi

I'm thinking of putting some lights in my build. But ... I don't know nutt'n about lights in build. So ... where do I start?

Some likes and dislikes ..

- yuk to a row of bright dots
- yuk to something that rapidly changes colors
- I am pretty sure I want the ability to turn some or all of the lights on / off
- not adverse to changing the hue based on some system input / output (ie CPU / water / air temp delta)

Any suggested readings, suggestions, build logs that I can review?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Not usually a fan of monoblocks, but they look good on ITX - at least IMO. Seems like the contact with the CPU isn't quite right, so we'll see if it stays or I go with just the CPU block only.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks purdy though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that looks mighty familiar . . . . Just put the same block on my new Strix Z 270I this weekend myself . . .









D.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Now that looks mighty familiar . . . . Just put the same block on my new Strix Z 270I this weekend myself . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


How did you find the contact between the CPU area and the IHS? I'm sure it's fine, but when I was checking it I had only thin paste on the CPU but with light pressure it only picked up a small amount (very scientific I know).









Just wondering if there is a flaw in mine or if it tighened down better than it seemed. I added extra TIM so I know it will have enough - but the contact definitely isn't as 'definitive' as it is with the supremacy.

Engagement on the VRM sections seemed to be great however... not like that really matters, of course.


----------



## 10tunhammer




----------



## DiGiCiDAL

WOW... that's a crazy run in the middle (the res -> flow meter -> CPU). Nicely done!


----------



## 10tunhammer

Thanks it took me like 3hrs to do the tube work but was worth it in the end.


----------



## Rayizdaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Quick question currently my i7 7700k overclocked to 4.7ghz with 1.225v and something seems strange to me whereby upon I'm inside bios my CPU temperature shows 33-35 Celsius and my water temperature around 30.5-31.5 Celsius.
> 
> But once I'm inside windows and monitor with hardware monitor software my CPU temp was 41-45 and water temperature also 30.5-31.5 Celsius, so I'm not sure whether that's normal or what?


Im kinda showing same temps with i5 7600k @ 1.25 at 4.8...45 to 50 c in core temp but bios is showing a bit lower...did you get an answer


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayizdaman*
> 
> Im kinda showing same temps with i5 7600k @ 1.25 at 4.8...45 to 50 c in core temp but bios is showing a bit lower...did you get an answer


Not receiving any answer yet. ?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> I don't think we're talking about the same bitspower kit again... Their product naming is really bad like many other companies. I am talking about a kit that looks like this
> 
> 
> And the d5 that i'm buying looks like this:
> 
> 
> Why I chose the bitspower top is because don't really like the EK tops looks and where I'm shopping (EU, Germany based store) the selection of d5 tops is limited.
> And to be frank I am not subjective towards bitspower if that's what you're thinking. In fact, I've never owned one of their products.
> All I have to choose from is
> 
> Bitspower mod top s-model
> EK BAY RES
> Other RES d5 mounts ( dont want any reservoirs attached to my d5
> Alphacool VPP655 -G1/4 Eisdecke D5 Plexi V.3
> EK XTOP revo
> If I don't get any of these my only other option is to go DDC or eheim ( i might be interested in Eheim actually but I lack information about those).
> What do you think?


That first pic is the Premium top
https://bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=4817

but the mod top S-model is this
https://bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=3357

Maybe a link from where you are buying will clear it up. Just trying to make sure you get something that will work instead of half a kit.

The mod top s-model will not work with just the bare EK pump for the reasons i mentioned before.


----------



## grayfox11

Anybody have seen new concept case from corsair?
https://youtu.be/1HQT4caDt9k

Im sorry for the inappropriate attachments, but what you guys think? The hdd rack, rads rack, airflow,etc.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Now that looks mighty familiar . . . . Just put the same block on my new Strix Z 270I this weekend myself . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


It looks familiar to me........because I designed it.

The CPU cold plate is offset by 5mm because of the ridiculous caps running parallel to the socket.....


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mhawkinson*
> 
> Here is my setup,
> 
> Nzxt S340 Black on Black
> Gigabyte z97x gaming 5
> i7-4790 (non k)
> 32gb HyperX memory
> ATI 7970 Ghz Edition
> "custom" water loop (started w/ the EK-Kit L240 2.0)
> Mayhems Aurora Red Coolant
> Samsung 850 Evo 250gb SSD
> WD Black 2TB storage drive
> LG 21:9 monitor
> 
> i love this setup!


Hey man I am interested in this loop, you are basically using one single 240 rad for cooling both CPU and GPU right? aren't your temps getting too high? I usually see a 240 rad being used for the CPU and a 120 for the GPU since in this case there's not enough space for 2 x 240.


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Maybe a link from where you are buying will clear it up. Just trying to make sure you get something that will work instead of half a kit.


Yes, a a link to the webshop would be a good idea of me.








It is on german but you can press a button to translate it into half-assed english. Here you go:
LINK
Thanks for helping me


----------



## MuxLee

do you have to purchase from that supplier , they are linked to overclockers in the uk but they have more choice ,

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/water-cooling/components/pumps?p=2


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Make sure those cables don't get pinched by the heatsink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for Jayz2cents reference, but he posted a vid about heatsink pinching off his cables and shorting his pumps.
> 
> The threat is real and I forget if it was BP or another brand. I just remember seeing what it did to his cables. They were noticeably flat where the heatsink met the impeller casing.
> 
> DDC are pretty reliable compared to the reliability of D5 pumps. As was stated you just want to mount them where there is an abundance of air flowing over them. I had mine mounted at the opposite side of my HDD rack in front of a 230mm fan with no drive in that location. Kept them both pretty cool with the stock cases. Didn't have an aftermarket heatsink. Of course mine were 1T models with no PWM so they don't produce the same kind of heat a 3.25 does.
> 
> Just make sure those cables don't get pinched warranty will not cover a burnt pump replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


OoOoOoH ... I have the big guns giving me advice, nice !! ...

Thanks for the information, I will check that out, I think that he was using the EK cooling kit, but I have a dremel so if I need to grind 2 small grooves I don't mind... I just need to figure out how to attach a fan to it as it won't be in direct airflow.

I can't wait, wonder how long PPCs will take to ship to me ... I am so excited.


----------



## emsj86

Anyone peep the water blocks and fittings from corsair. Seems everyone and there mother are doing waterblocks. (That is if there not just a rebrand but they seem different to the naked eye). Wish it would help pricing but it won't. Honesty I fear it may hurt some of the smaller water cooled companies.


----------



## kroaton

HI all, i'm new to watercooling, i've just built my very first custom loop.
Is it good? Any suggestions? in case i want to liquid the GPU can i use the same loop or should i add a 120mm radiator on the back?

http://imgur.com/y5YWzR3 http://imgur.com/sq9b8bF
http://imgur.com/kVOhf7E http://imgur.com/fvUky37
http://imgur.com/GXgxzzj


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> HI all, i'm new to watercooling, i've just built my very first custom loop.
> Is it good? Any suggestions? in case i want to liquid the GPU can i use the same loop or should i add a 120mm radiator on the back?


Adding the GPU to the loop will be fine. Are temps good right now with what you have?

TCO


----------



## VSG

I will just leave this here: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-fluid-gaming-sets-new-standard-for-water-cooling/


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Adding the GPU to the loop will be fine. Are temps good right now with what you have?
> 
> TCO


yes temps on the cpu are pretty good, i'm just afraid that if i add the gpu to the loop the temps will get too high.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I will just leave this here: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-fluid-gaming-sets-new-standard-for-water-cooling/


yes but I already have a Kit, don't want to buy a new one







Anyway that's mainly similiar to the kit i already have with a thicker 240 rad.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-g240


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> yes but I already have a Kit, don't want to buy a new one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway that's mainly similiar to the kit i already have with a thicker 240 rad.
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-g240


Read that again, this is not your usual kit.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Read that again, this is not your usual kit.


yeah i thinkt hey just added a VGA WB to the usual kit. Strange they propose a single slim rad for both CPU and GPU, not sure that's enough


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> yeah i thinkt hey just added a VGA WB to the usual kit. Strange they propose a single slim rad for both CPU and GPU, not sure that's enough


Those kits are all aluminum parts, that's what I was trying to lead at. Hence the much lower price points.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Those kits are all aluminum parts, that's what I was trying to lead at. Hence the much lower price points.


oh yes i think you are right, also the CPU WB is alluminium instead of copper (as my Supreme MX)
Do you think that with my loop i can add a VGA WB to my 1080gtx without any temp issue? or should i add a 120mm rad too?


----------



## Hello Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> OoOoOoH ... I have the big guns giving me advice, nice !! ...
> 
> Thanks for the information, I will check that out, I think that he was using the EK cooling kit, but I have a dremel so if I need to grind 2 small grooves I don't mind... I just need to figure out how to attach a fan to it as it won't be in direct airflow.
> 
> I can't wait, wonder how long PPCs will take to ship to me ... I am so excited.


Yeah, be careful. I installed an aftermarket XSPC top on my MCP 35x and instantly lost RPM and PWM. Appears the cables got pinched. Pretty annoyed, considering I run my computer as a mining rig when I am not gaming on it, and my auto shutoff for pump failure no longer works. #triggered


----------



## Hello Man

You could always get some higher airflow fans. Would add a little noise but keep temps down. I have an XSPC EX360 in a right now, which is a slim mid fin density rad. That has a 780TI (a very power hungry card) and an FX8350 in the loob. Both are overclocked, and neither get over 60c.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I will just leave this here: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-fluid-gaming-sets-new-standard-for-water-cooling/


woah. Not sure how i feel about that. Do you think theyve done a Sufficient job of preventing corrosion? Cpu and gpu cooling at 240$ is pretty damn cheap


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> woah. Not sure how i feel about that. Do you think theyve done a Sufficient job of preventing corrosion? Cpu and gpu cooling at 240$ is pretty damn cheap


What corrosion? Everything in those kits are aluminum or aluminum compliant. My review of the A240G kit just went live on TPU if you were interested to see more.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What corrosion? Everything in those kits are aluminum or aluminum compliant. My review of the A240G kit just went live on TPU if you were interested to see more.


sounds like a yes then... I just always wonder about the little things like pump shafts and rad solder. Ill check the review out a bit later, thanks!


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What corrosion? Everything in those kits are aluminum or aluminum compliant. My review of the A240G kit just went live on TPU if you were interested to see more.


Excellent conclusion about making full water cooling more affordable and using all aluminum is the key to that. $240 for the entire kit is a sweet deal -- will definitely keep in mind for future builds, where I don't need the greatest temperatures possible. Even then, this kit isn't that far off, just around 5C at worst.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone peep the water blocks and fittings from corsair. Seems everyone and there mother are doing waterblocks. (That is if there not just a rebrand but they seem different to the naked eye). Wish it would help pricing but it won't. Honesty I fear it may hurt some of the smaller water cooled companies.


That CPU seems to just be a re-branded aquacomputer block (cuplex kryos next)... I would be surprised if all of their parts (at least in that build) aren't rebrands. The "Made in Germany" part would be a giveaway even if it weren't for the distinctive shape on that block.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> That CPU seems to just be a re-branded aquacomputer block (cuplex kryos next)... I would be surprised if all of their parts (at least in that build) aren't rebrands. The "Made in Germany" part would be a giveaway even if it weren't for the distinctive shape on that block.


GPU block also from Aqua Computer, the rest seem to be Alphacool. These were purchased and had the Corsair logo put on for the demo system. Some YouTubers saw the logo, had no idea about the origins of the parts and claimed Corsair is getting into custom watercooling without verifying. Sad state of affairs.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> GPU block also from Aqua Computer, the rest seem to be Alphacool. These were purchased and had the Corsair logo put on for the demo system. Some YouTubers saw the logo, had no idea about the origins of the parts and claimed Corsair is getting into custom watercooling without verifying. Sad state of affairs.


Yeah although it seems a little sketchy to me to just paste your logo on other company's products... I understand for the demonstration factor - but to me the 'honest' way of doing that would be to simply obscure or remove the non-corsair products' logos rather than covering them up with your own.

Maybe they got approval from Aquacomputer and Alphacool... I would hope so at least, but then if that's the case I see their agreement somewhat questionable from a marketing standpoint.

Probably putting too much thought into all of that - but it seems 'plagiaristic' in a sense.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Yeah although it seems a little sketchy to me to just paste your logo on other company's products... I understand for the demonstration factor - but to me the 'honest' way of doing that would be to simply obscure or remove the non-corsair products' logos rather than covering them up with your own.
> 
> Maybe they got approval from Aquacomputer and Alphacool... I would hope so at least, but then if that's the case I see their agreement somewhat questionable from a marketing standpoint.
> 
> Probably putting too much thought into all of that - but it seems 'plagiaristic' in a sense.


Yeah, from what I heard they asked for permission and it was granted. But that is a good point- lots of such instances happen all the time and no doubt some without notice or permission request to the manufacturer.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Not to mention it clearly had the effect of communicating (at least to the uninformed or unobservant) that everything in the system was a "Corsair product"... something that is definitely not the case.

Strange that they left the motherboard (the visible one at least - not sure of the ITX board) branded as MSI... so only the watercooling stuff got the rebranding treatment. Of course, almost everything else actually _is_ a Corsair product - so there's not much else other than that to rebrand in the first place.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Yeah although it seems a little sketchy to me to just paste your logo on other company's products... I understand for the demonstration factor - but to me the 'honest' way of doing that would be to simply obscure or remove the non-corsair products' logos rather than covering them up with your own.
> 
> Maybe they got approval from Aquacomputer and Alphacool... I would hope so at least, but then if that's the case I see their agreement somewhat questionable from a marketing standpoint.
> 
> Probably putting too much thought into all of that - but it seems 'plagiaristic' in a sense.


it has worked for thermalfake for years lol


----------



## dallas1990

Anyone ever used uv green tubing with black fluid? I'm planning on doing this for a green and black theme. I want the tubing to glow green. but I don't want the fluid to dim the tubing glow from the uv light. Also what fluid should I get I hear mix results for the pastel.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I will just leave this here: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-fluid-gaming-sets-new-standard-for-water-cooling/


That's.... Oddly tempting, especially given it's decent price point. I do kind of wish they would offer a 360mm version... Will they be offering the ability to add on additional radiators and/or waterblocks?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> That's.... Oddly tempting, especially given it's decent price point. I do kind of wish they would offer a 360mm version... Will they be offering the ability to add on additional radiators and/or waterblocks?


That is the eventual goal, yes. Hence the separate website for this: https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That is the eventual goal, yes. Hence the separate website for this: https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/


Definitely good to know. I sure like the $400 CAD (ish) price tag for cpu and gpu cooling... Sure beats the upwards of $7-800 CAD a similar setup picked up piecemeal out of their standard line would cost... aka yes, I do spend money on things, and am willing to spend more for better "stuff", but on the flipside if I can get similar performance in a kit that looks rather nice... It's seriously tempting.


----------



## Dasboogieman

First time loop. According to the old martin's estimator I either have somewhere between 1GPM-2GPM flow. Thinking about getting more rads and a bigger case.


----------



## fakeblood

Swapped out the orange and clear tubing for Black tubing and clear coolant. Also blacked out the front and top panels with vinyl.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04665_zpstixeelp6.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04734_zpsk20s1x19.png.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04738_zpsqtai1ezu.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04747_zpsjnufuplu.jpg.html


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Swapped out the orange and clear tubing for Black tubing and clear coolant. Also blacked out the front and top panels with vinyl.
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04665_zpstixeelp6.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04734_zpsk20s1x19.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04738_zpsqtai1ezu.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04747_zpsjnufuplu.jpg.html


nice setup, but your orange looks way better


----------



## dwolvin

Heh- complete disagreement here, love the new look.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Swapped out the orange and clear tubing for Black tubing and clear coolant. Also blacked out the front and top panels with vinyl.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04665_zpstixeelp6.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04734_zpsk20s1x19.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04738_zpsqtai1ezu.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04747_zpsjnufuplu.jpg.html


Looks amazing, that Strix block is so gorgeous


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm thinking of putting some lights in my build. But ... I don't know nutt'n about lights in build. So ... where do I start?
> 
> Some likes and dislikes ..
> 
> - yuk to a row of bright dots
> - yuk to something that rapidly changes colors
> - I am pretty sure I want the ability to turn some or all of the lights on / off
> - not adverse to changing the hue based on some system input / output (ie CPU / water / air temp delta)
> 
> Any suggested readings, suggestions, build logs that I can review?


So ... to start my own ball rolling ... did some googling and found this youtube from DazMode (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JARCgmwU3II) as well as looked at various PPCs items ...

Monsoon CCFL Inverter - Two Bulb
Monsoon CCFL Inverter Switch Cable
Monsoon Premium G 1 / 4 LED Plug - Green
Monsoon MMRS CCFL Plug for 200mm Tube - Green-Green
Zalman Fan Mate 2 - Sleeved
DarkSide Connect Dimmable 7.75" Modular LED Strip - White
Initial thinking is that I can put the Monsoon CCFL 200mm tube in my reservoir. I can also turn it on / off with an external switch. The other area of lighting would be LEDs under my radiators and in the left and right side 'corners' of my case. I haven't measured those yet, so the 7.75" LED strip is a placeholder. I might also want to dim them ... hence the Zalman dimmer.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Im LOVING this 1080ti heatkiller block!


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Im LOVING this 1080ti heatkiller block!


Yeah, it's a nice block. Was hoping they'd make one for the FTW3, but doesn't look like they'll be doing that. Too busy, and perhaps not enough interest.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> HI all, i'm new to watercooling, i've just built my very first custom loop.
> Is it good? Any suggestions? in case i want to liquid the GPU can i use the same loop or should i add a 120mm radiator on the back?
> 
> http://imgur.com/y5YWzR3 http://imgur.com/sq9b8bF
> http://imgur.com/kVOhf7E http://imgur.com/fvUky37
> http://imgur.com/GXgxzzj


Anybody can help or suggest?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> Anybody can help or suggest?


And I quote
Quote:


> HI all, i'm new to watercooling, i've just built my very first custom loop.
> 1. Is it good?
> 
> 2. Any suggestions?
> 
> 3. in case i want to liquid the GPU can i use the same loop or
> 
> 4.should i add a 120mm radiator on the back?


Lets try this (Number breakdown)

1. Yes it is good.
3 You can use the same loop.
4.Optional after seeing temps once GPU is integrated into loop.

TCO


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> it has worked for thermalfake for years lol


LOL so true... however, that's also the reason I almost never buy anything of theirs.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Swapped out the orange and clear tubing for Black tubing and clear coolant. Also blacked out the front and top panels with vinyl.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04665_zpstixeelp6.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04734_zpsk20s1x19.png.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04738_zpsqtai1ezu.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC04747_zpsjnufuplu.jpg.html


Nice! I like it much better actually (though it looked good before). Now it's just so "stealth" looking it almost seems dangerous.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm thinking of putting some lights in my build. But ... I don't know nutt'n about lights in build. So ... where do I start?
> 
> Some likes and dislikes ..
> 
> - yuk to a row of bright dots
> - yuk to something that rapidly changes colors
> - I am pretty sure I want the ability to turn some or all of the lights on / off
> - not adverse to changing the hue based on some system input / output (ie CPU / water / air temp delta)
> 
> Any suggested readings, suggestions, build logs that I can review?
> 
> 
> 
> So ... to start my own ball rolling ... did some googling and found this youtube from DazMode (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JARCgmwU3II) as well as looked at various PPCs items ...
> 
> Monsoon CCFL Inverter - Two Bulb
> Monsoon CCFL Inverter Switch Cable
> Monsoon Premium G 1 / 4 LED Plug - Green
> Monsoon MMRS CCFL Plug for 200mm Tube - Green-Green
> Zalman Fan Mate 2 - Sleeved
> DarkSide Connect Dimmable 7.75" Modular LED Strip - White
> Initial thinking is that I can put the Monsoon CCFL 200mm tube in my reservoir. I can also turn it on / off with an external switch. The other area of lighting would be LEDs under my radiators and in the left and right side 'corners' of my case. I haven't measured those yet, so the 7.75" LED strip is a placeholder. I might also want to dim them ... hence the Zalman dimmer.
Click to expand...

It looks like you have 2 50mm sections for your res? If so, get the 100mm version of the CCFL plug. I would skip the led plug, it won't do much with a colored res. The green res is also uv reactive so you could us a uv bulb if you wanted that kind of glow. I like white lighting for the case itself to show off the hardware. Colored strips just flood the whole thing and there's not a lot of visibility.
Darkside strips are the best, can't go wrong with them


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> So ... to start my own ball rolling ... did some googling and found this youtube from DazMode (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JARCgmwU3II) as well as looked at various PPCs items ...
> 
> Monsoon CCFL Inverter - Two Bulb
> Monsoon CCFL Inverter Switch Cable
> Monsoon Premium G 1 / 4 LED Plug - Green
> Monsoon MMRS CCFL Plug for 200mm Tube - Green-Green
> Zalman Fan Mate 2 - Sleeved
> DarkSide Connect Dimmable 7.75" Modular LED Strip - White
> Initial thinking is that I can put the Monsoon CCFL 200mm tube in my reservoir. I can also turn it on / off with an external switch. The other area of lighting would be LEDs under my radiators and in the left and right side 'corners' of my case. I haven't measured those yet, so the 7.75" LED strip is a placeholder. I might also want to dim them ... hence the Zalman dimmer.


If you don't like dots, one suggestion is getting high density led strips and putting them into a led extrusion with a diffuser attached (although it can get expensive).


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> nice setup, but your orange looks way better


That's the beauty of RGB! If I want orange, I can have orange!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Looks amazing, that Strix block is so gorgeous


Cheers James. It sure is gorgeous. Lovin that you're back and your rocking the new build!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Nice! I like it much better actually (though it looked good before). Now it's just so "stealth" looking it almost seems dangerous.


I keep it locked in a well lit room at night, so it doesn't cause any trouble haha


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It looks like you have 2 50mm sections for your res? If so, get the 100mm version of the CCFL plug. I would skip the led plug, it won't do much with a colored res. The green res is also uv reactive so you could us a uv bulb if you wanted that kind of glow. I like white lighting for the case itself to show off the hardware. Colored strips just flood the whole thing and there's not a lot of visibility.
> Darkside strips are the best, can't go wrong with them


Thanks for the response.

I included the plug for completeness ... not a real starter from my point of view. Interesting about the UV reactive green res ... I will look into that. This page at PPCs (http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-ccfl-plug-for-200mm-tube-green-green.html) has a handy length chart for the CCFL plugs ... I will try and measure the inside length of my res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> If you don't like dots, one suggestion is getting high density led strips and putting them into a led extrusion with a diffuser attached (although it can get expensive).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the response.

I was also looking at these Alphacool Eislicht LED Panel - White (15296) - they appear to come with a diffuser pre-installed.

I will probably go with no diffuser for the run under the radiators ... but the lights in the main body of the case will definitely need something. Another thing to research.

*Edit*: It seems like there are a ton of places that sell the extrusions. One that I have been looking at is https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/88792/KLUS-00157.html. Also ... if I go down the route of an extrusion ... then I can swap from the rigid LEDs to flexible (Phobya LED-Flexlight HighDensity 30cm - White (36x SMD LED´s) (83122))

Edit2: I found this channel (https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/66312/KLUS-B1888ANODL.html) and this cover (https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/66329/KLUS-1547L.html) that seem ideal. It appears that there is a slight curve to the frosted cover so that might spread some of the light. The channel is only 0.6" (15mm) wide. The Darkside LEDs appear to be 8mm wide.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> If you don't like dots, one suggestion is getting high density led strips and putting them into a led extrusion with a diffuser attached (although it can get expensive).


Can you please post a link or part number or something to help me find this extrusion with diffuser attached?

I'm trying to do something with a 144/meter strip, but I still get the "dots" effect (just more of them) and what you've posted seems like it might solve my issue!

Thank you
Gary


----------



## 10tunhammer

lol


----------



## 10tunhammer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayizdaman*
> 
> Im kinda showing same temps with i5 7600k @ 1.25 at 4.8...45 to 50 c in core temp bnot sure if this helps but it could be that once you star up windows your using a bit more of the cpu than you would be in just your bios so this could explain the temp difference. or not.ut bios is showing a bit lower...did you get an answer


not sure if this helps but it could be that once you star up windows your using a bit more of the cpu than you would be in just your bios so this could explain the temp difference. or not.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Can you please post a link or part number or something to help me find this extrusion with diffuser attached?
> 
> I'm trying to do something with a 144/meter strip, but I still get the "dots" effect (just more of them) and what you've posted seems like it might solve my issue!
> 
> Thank you
> Gary


Yea, it needs to be a deeper channel type and a good frosted diffuser. I got this one http://www.ecolocityled.com/product/klus-pds-zm-extrusion/led_extrusions

Double check the width of your strips to see if they fit.

The diffuser I got is the indoor extra frosted one, part # EK-KL1-FRX-1M

Edit: I'm also using strips of that density. That photo is a bit saturated, but it really does look that smooth to the eye.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the response.
> 
> I included the plug for completeness ... not a real starter from my point of view. Interesting about the UV reactive green res ... I will look into that. This page at PPCs (http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-ccfl-plug-for-200mm-tube-green-green.html) has a handy length chart for the CCFL plugs ... I will try and measure the inside length of my res.
> Thanks for the response.
> 
> I was also looking at these Alphacool Eislicht LED Panel - White (15296) - they appear to come with a diffuser pre-installed.
> 
> I will probably go with no diffuser for the run under the radiators ... but the lights in the main body of the case will definitely need something. Another thing to research.
> 
> *Edit*: It seems like there are a ton of places that sell the extrusions. One that I have been looking at is https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/88792/KLUS-00157.html. Also ... if I go down the route of an extrusion ... then I can swap from the rigid LEDs to flexible (Phobya LED-Flexlight HighDensity 30cm - White (36x SMD LED´s) (83122))
> 
> Edit2: I found this channel (https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/66312/KLUS-B1888ANODL.html) and this cover (https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/66329/KLUS-1547L.html) that seem ideal. It appears that there is a slight curve to the frosted cover so that might spread some of the light. The channel is only 0.6" (15mm) wide. The Darkside LEDs appear to be 8mm wide.


KLUS are nice. Just make sure you use the deep channel ones like I posted above. Thin ones like the one you linked will still show dots. Also, get the extra frosted diffuser. I don't know if anything less dense than 144/m will be smooth since that's all I've tried. But, the leds do need to be dense. I'll suggest taking a look at Adafruit to see if they have anything.

Also, check the inner width of the extrusion for strip compatibility. That channel will hold 10mm width strips, but I don't recommend it since it's thin. The phobya strips you linked are also 10mm width. The denser strips are usually wider. The extrusion I linked above should hold them as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Make sure those cables don't get pinched by the heatsink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for Jayz2cents reference, but he posted a vid about heatsink pinching off his cables and shorting his pumps.
> 
> The threat is real and I forget if it was BP or another brand. I just remember seeing what it did to his cables. They were noticeably flat where the heatsink met the impeller casing.
> 
> DDC are pretty reliable compared to the reliability of D5 pumps. As was stated you just want to mount them where there is an abundance of air flowing over them. I had mine mounted at the opposite side of my HDD rack in front of a 230mm fan with no drive in that location. Kept them both pretty cool with the stock cases. Didn't have an aftermarket heatsink. Of course mine were 1T models with no PWM so they don't produce the same kind of heat a 3.25 does.
> 
> Just make sure those cables don't get pinched warranty will not cover a burnt pump replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OoOoOoH ... I have the big guns giving me advice, nice !! ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the information, I will check that out, I think that he was using the EK cooling kit, but I have a dremel so if I need to grind 2 small grooves I don't mind... I just need to figure out how to attach a fan to it as it won't be in direct airflow.
> 
> I can't wait, wonder how long PPCs will take to ship to me ... I am so excited.
Click to expand...

Thank you. But seriously, I don't consider myself to be a big gun. Just an up an Comer passing on helpful information whenever possible.









Guys like Bneg an geggeg (VSG) are people I equate as *big guns*. They do a hadesuvalot moar watercooling stuffs than I do. But I do appreciate your sentiments. Always feels good to be appreciated.









____________

On the topic of lighting in this thread, I concur with the light tubes over the plugs in the reservoir. Plugs work for small Reservoirs but lose their effect over length. It's similar to diving on a bright day. The deeper you go the dimmer it gets. Light doesn't travel well through depth. But those light wands (for lack of a better descriptive) should do the job well. Especially a lengthy one (or more) should do the trick for brightening things up. I'm planning a 300mm two stage MMRS with two or three of them. One cylinder will be clear frosted, the other one will be *black*. Just unsure of the length of each. Probably 200mm for the clear and 100 for the black, as I don't want the black section to overwhelm the look that I am after. Which is somewhat _*lighsaber-ish*_. Two wands should be just right for sheer intensity, three may simply overpower the eyes. But three would help control turbulence without the need for a trident insert. However with the black cylinder, I wouldn't see whether this is true or not. But applied logic makes me think that it would be effective so long as the length(200mm +/-) is enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> KLUS are nice. Just make sure you use the deep channel ones like I posted above. Thin ones like the one you linked will still show dots. Also, get the extra frosted diffuser. I don't know if anything less dense than 144/m will be smooth since that's all I've tried. But, the leds do need to be dense. I'll suggest taking a look at Adafruit to see if they have anything.
> 
> Also, check the inner width of the extrusion for strip compatibility. That channel will hold 10mm width strips, but I don't recommend it since it's thin. The phobya strips you linked are also 10mm width. The denser strips are usually wider. The extrusion I linked above should hold them as well.


Excellent - thx for the links. +REP

The diffusor you quoted had the wrong SKU ... it should have been EX-KL1-FRX-1M

Marking these for my future reference ...
- http://www.ecolocityled.com/product/high-cri-90-led-strip-light/led_strip_white
- http://www.ecolocityled.com/product/rl_sc_rsm_w_10/led_strip_white


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Excellent - thx for the links. +REP
> 
> The diffusor you quoted had the wrong SKU ... it should have been EX-KL1-FRX-1M
> 
> Marking these for my future reference ...
> - http://www.ecolocityled.com/product/high-cri-90-led-strip-light/led_strip_white
> - http://www.ecolocityled.com/product/rl_sc_rsm_w_10/led_strip_white


You're welcome. Thanks for the correction on the sku, I did make a typo on it.


----------



## VSG

So about those Corsair watercooling parts.. The marketing team finally let it out- they are indeed working with Aqua Computer to get Corsair branded stuff to the market. Confusing decision to me, but let's see how it goes.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So about those Corsair watercooling parts.. The marketing team finally let it out- they are indeed working with Aqua Computer to get Corsair branded stuff to the market. Confusing decision to me, but let's see how it goes.


I was just going to post the same. All of YouTube channels posted that the two are working together. Perhaps this will mean better pricing on great gear due to increased production resulting in lower cost per unit... Or we could just end up with a "Corsair Tax" and flags all over my case LOL. Time will tell


----------



## madmeatballs

I hope Aqua Computer will maintain their quality.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Still waiting on my components to come, but I did a build for a friend where he gave me free reign on his pc (within his budget) so I did a semi custom loop for him. Looking for opinions.
(please excuse the Gigabyte card, I waited 2 months for a Strix card and my suppliers could never get them into the country)



*::: EDIT :::*

This is my first ever loop


----------



## Ceadderman

Other than the Koolance Quick Disconnect, that build looks sharp. I'm guessing you will be putting that GPU under water maybe?

If so you could add a drain port at the bottom connection point to drain the loop to make necessary changes/adjustments.









~Ceadder


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Other than the Koolance Quick Disconnect, that build looks sharp. I'm guessing you will be putting that GPU under water maybe?
> 
> If so you could add a drain port at the bottom connection point to drain the loop to make necessary changes/adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quick disconnect ? ... None in this build sadly, I should have added.

He will be adding the GPU to the loop as well as another 120mm rad, but for now the card makes zero noise so he is happy with it.

When he does do the GPU, I will be adding a drain section for sure


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So about those Corsair watercooling parts.. The marketing team finally let it out- they are indeed working with Aqua Computer to get Corsair branded stuff to the market. Confusing decision to me, but let's see how it goes.


Not to me,AQC have the best quality,everything is in house and the performance is good. My surprise comes from not coming to market sooner or that they didnt take any time to design their own,not sure whats worse really.......I think Corsair should have the ability to design a waterblock or have they sunk too far into sticker company hell......


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And I quote
> Lets try this (Number breakdown)
> 
> 1. Yes it is good.
> 3 You can use the same loop.
> 4.Optional after seeing temps once GPU is integrated into loop.
> 
> TCO


thanks, i'll probably try just adding the gpu to the loop and see. THing is that the cpu is overclocked at 5.1Ghz and the 1080 gpu is at 2100Mhz so i am afraid i will have boiling water in my loop


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Other than the Koolance Quick Disconnect, that build looks sharp. I'm guessing you will be putting that GPU under water maybe?
> 
> If so you could add a drain port at the bottom connection point to drain the loop to make necessary changes/adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I totally thought the same thing (that it was a QDC) but it's two fittings on the res/pump assembly... at a glance though it does look like a chrome Koolance QDC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not to me,AQC have the best quality,everything is in house and the performance is good. My surprise comes from not coming to market sooner or that they didnt take any time to design their own,not sure whats worse really.......I think Corsair should have the ability to design a waterblock or have they sunk too far into sticker company hell......


I share your surprise on that front, but I guess what really is confusing to me is that it seems (at least on this side of the pond) that AQC has some rather significant production problems - quantity not quality - as it is. Every time I look to order something of theirs I have to hit 3-4 retailers before I can find an 'in stock' item... and often then it's an inventory of one or two remaining. Perhaps this will be a good move if Corsair is providing funding for a greatly expanded production facility on the AQC side... and Corsair then can release top-tier products initially rather than going through the growing pains of R&D and prototyping themselves.

I just hope this doesn't wind up similar to what seems to have happened with CaseLabs... popularity and demand increases resulting in even worse availability issues and a reduction in SKUs and options. At least with a case it will work for multiple versions of hardware... with a GPU/CPU block, if the wait time is bad enough you may be ramping up production just as the target product is rapidly approaching obsolescence.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> *thanks, i'll probably try just adding the gpu to the loop and see*. THing is that the cpu is overclocked at 5.1Ghz and the 1080 gpu is at 2100Mhz so i am afraid i will have boiling water in my loop




TCO


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> ..


Ahkay, on my mobile it looks like a QDC. A drain is better. Stay away from Koolance QDC. They have issues. Not all of the do but I err on the side of _why take the chance_. So great job.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kostadinos

Μayhems Orange Pastel !!!! i am waiting for gpu to complete the project


----------



## DarthBaggins

That doesn't look very Orange to me, looks closer to a Red - how old is the Pastel you're using?


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks Oriels/Giants orange to me. That bottom pic it looks toward the lower shade of Red in the spectrum, but the other pics look orange on my mobile.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kostadinos

I used image filter this is the reason it looks different


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok that would explain it, I'm on a rig at the gallery that has a calibrated screen.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Finally got my Aorus 1080 Ti under water the other day after a dreadful 2 month wait and a delayed release. Air is not fun! Except for breathing and stuff...

Sorry for the cell pics. Need to take some better pictures with my camera.





That's right. NO acrylic tubing! Using EK ZMT matte black tubing in this build. Wanted to go darker with this. Not too into the RGB scene.

Can finally reach 2100 now... and I can do it at 1.081v completely stable! Here i a bench with 2101/6003. I can also reach 2125 with 1.093v. Still playing around with curves.


----------



## PachAz

No worries, I am one of those who don't fancy hard tubing as well. I think it looks nicer with soft tubing more smooth. Anyways this is my system:



A mix between Alphacool, Watercool and EK parts.


----------



## dallas1990

looking sharp man


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> No worries, I am one of those who don't fancy hard tubing as well. I think it looks nicer with soft tubing more smooth. Anyways this is my system:
> 
> 
> 
> A mix between Alphacool, Watercool and EK parts.


Looks good! While I am not a fan of Alphacool you did a really good job and should be proud. What pump did you use?


----------



## jleslie246

Is this EK D5 pump a good one for a cpu and single gpu loop? It is glass also. Any CONS with glass?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Is this EK D5 pump a good one for a cpu and single gpu loop? It is glass also. Any CONS with glass?


A single D5 should be ok, I also don't like glass, I'm more of a metal, belt, straps and bolts sort of guy though.


----------



## dallas1990

glass i would think be harder to stain with some dyes also harder to scratch. but it is glass so you could shatter it if not careful.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Not watercooling as we know it but......



My new whip.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ghost ride it Neg.



TCO


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not watercooling as we know it but......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new whip.


Nice







I have a BMW myself


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a BMW myself


I have wanted a 1 series coupe for forever,this 125i came up at a good price that I couldnt ignore.


----------



## jleslie246

EK Vardar fans have been sold out of 140mm 1600 rpm fans for a long time. Will the 1150 rpm fans work ok for radiators? I rarely spin up my current fans 100% but i am going from push/pull on a 3x140x30mm rad to just pull with 3 vardar fans on the same rad. I just want to make sure the 1150 rpm fans will create enough air flow.


----------



## gulvastr

Should be fine. I run my fans under 1000 rpm and I have good temps.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not watercooling as we know it but......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new whip.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a BMW myself
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a BMW myself
> 
> 
> 
> I have wanted a 1 series coupe for forever,this 125i came up at a good price that I couldnt ignore.
Click to expand...

I purchased a 2008 M5 a few weeks ago. Boy has it been fun.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## eucalyptus

Heatkiller <3


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Yeah, it's a nice block. Was hoping they'd make one for the FTW3, but doesn't look like they'll be doing that. Too busy, and perhaps not enough interest.


Yeah, more on the "too busy" side of this equation. We are happy to be back to a 1-2 business days shipping routine, but we have a HUGE industrial contract that currently occupies a lot of resources. So no, we will not do any 1080Ti custom PCB layouts, unfortunately.

Hello, everybody, btw, just stumbled over this thread. Hope it's okay if I check in from time to time







And concerning cars: although I LOVE BMW 535, I'm trying to get my hands on a Tesla. Just love the basic concept of getting rid of a combustion engine


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Yeah, more on the "too busy" side of this equation. We are happy to be back to a 1-2 business days shipping routine, but we have a HUGE industrial contract that currently occupies a lot of resources. So no, we will not do any 1080Ti custom PCB layouts, unfortunately.
> 
> Hello, everybody, btw, just stumbled over this thread. Hope it's okay if I check in from time to time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And concerning cars: although I LOVE BMW 535, I'm trying to get my hands on a Tesla. Just love the basic concept of getting rid of a combustion engine


No problem, Jakob, I actually learned that by way of another site where either you or another of your associates posted the news.

Glad to have you here, know your area well (spent four years at Fliegorhorst Noervenich in the early 80s, and did a lot of my shopping back then at Saturn Records in Koeln).


----------



## FIDDY57

Im still waiting for ekwb evga 1080ti ftw3 gpu blocks. They say early june. Iv been sitting on a pile of custom loop parts for a few weeks now. They come out with at least 3 3rd party pcb's blocks dont know why evga ftw3 taking so long. Does anyone know of any other company that has gpu blocks for the ftw3?
Thanks


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> Im still waiting for ekwb evga 1080ti ftw3 gpu blocks. They say early june. Iv been sitting on a pile of custom loop parts for a few weeks now. They come out with at least 3 3rd party pcb's blocks dont know why evga ftw3 taking so long. Does anyone know of any other company that has gpu blocks for the ftw3?
> Thanks


Nope, nada. I've got an FTW3 myself, and have been looking as well.


----------



## Ithanul

Darn, now I am glad I bought a SC model 1080Ti instead of the FTW3 model. Though, I am smacking an uni block temporarily until I buy a full block.

Nice, BWM. Though, I am a sucker for old school cars. Otherwise, my love is for trucks.







(Just got myself a new ride as well)


----------



## looniam

https://9gag.com/gag/aVW1LGM/you-know-who-you-are


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not watercooling as we know it but......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new whip.


I always thought you never approved of aluminium or mixing metals in a cooling loop... I thought they had a steel wet cylinder liners with aluminium block and radiator possibly a copper heater core with brass sensors even a steel water pump impeller








amazing what a good corrosion inhibitor can do


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Nope, nada. I've got an FTW3 myself, and have been looking as well.


Thanks guess we just have to wait


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Darn, now I am glad I bought a SC model 1080Ti instead of the FTW3 model. Though, I am smacking an uni block temporarily until I buy a full block.
> 
> Nice, BWM. Though, I am a sucker for old school cars. Otherwise, my love is for trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Just got myself a new ride as well)


Lol, I drive a rustbucket of a 2006 Silverado that's been through the mud kinda like the tractor in your Avatar has. Hauled tons of wood and lots of other things with it (including a few dead bodies I don't know about... just kiddin'), and it's gotten me where I've wanted to go for more than 10 years now. Some of the those places you wouldn't dare drive a "BWM" into.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not a fan of non M Bavarian Manure Wagons, PitA to work on, also the 1 series uses an encoded battery (has to be programmed when changed).


----------



## dallas1990

has anyone worked with a water chiller on the water loop? cause im wondering in the room that my pc is in. its 27 Celsius sadly the house doesnt have central air. what im wondering is would a water chiller slow down the amount of heat delivered to the room or would it not matter? its just something im curious about is all.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> has anyone worked with a water chiller on the water loop? cause im wondering in the room that my pc is in. its 27 Celsius sadly the house doesnt have central air. what im wondering is would a water chiller slow down the amount of heat delivered to the room or would it not matter? its just something im curious about is all.


it will add tenfold heat to your room as any refrigerant will have an effect of 'superheat' when compressed from gas to liquid.


----------



## dallas1990

i had a feeling it would add more heat since what ever is cooling the water would throw out some heat. kinda like a window ac on the outside


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

I finally got around to putting some fluid into my motherboard block that was donated to me and I noticed something a little strange that I would like some input on:

*Fluid on top of the jetplate:*



*Fluid between channels:*



Could this be caused due to there not being a pump and I just poured some fluid into the block ? ... Is this normal ?

Regards


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> I finally got around to putting some fluid into my motherboard block that was donated to me and I noticed something a little strange that I would like some input on:
> 
> *Fluid on top of the jetplate:*
> 
> 
> 
> *Fluid between channels:*
> 
> 
> 
> Could this be caused due to there not being a pump and I just poured some fluid into the block ? ... Is this normal ?
> 
> Regards


no, this is not good.


----------



## dallas1990

yea, thats not supposed to happen


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> no, this is not good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> yea, thats not supposed to happen


I figured as much, so far there has been no leaks from the block itself, but I am waiting for my pump to arrive to I can put some pressure in it.

I really would hate to suddenly not have a block for my loop and the only 1 I can find is expensive and a bitspower block


----------



## dallas1990

its possible that the screws mounting the plexi is just a hair loose. but if i tighten it to much you'll crack that plexi. but i wouldnt risk it imo


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Yeah, more on the "too busy" side of this equation. We are happy to be back to a 1-2 business days shipping routine, but we have a HUGE industrial contract that currently occupies a lot of resources. So no, we will not do any 1080Ti custom PCB layouts, unfortunately.
> 
> Hello, everybody, btw, just stumbled over this thread. Hope it's okay if I check in from time to time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And concerning cars: although I LOVE BMW 535, I'm trying to get my hands on a Tesla. Just love the basic concept of getting rid of a combustion engine


You are in luck because it's going that way in Deutschland.
And you are more than welcome in this thread
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Not a fan of non M Bavarian Manure Wagons, PitA to work on, also the 1 series uses an encoded battery (has to be programmed when changed).


INPA + NCSEXPERT = Fixed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> I finally got around to putting some fluid into my motherboard block that was donated to me and I noticed something a little strange that I would like some input on:
> 
> *Fluid on top of the jetplate:*
> 
> 
> 
> *Fluid between channels:*
> 
> 
> 
> Could this be caused due to there not being a pump and I just poured some fluid into the block ? ... Is this normal ?
> 
> Regards


Completely normal,its condensation between the steel midplate and the acrylic top. Although....the acrylic itself looks cracked around the screws....


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Completely normal,its condensation between the steel midplate and the acrylic top. Although....the acrylic itself looks cracked around the screws....


Yeah, there are some cracks in the acrylic which is why I wanted to leak test it, the cracks look bad, but there is no moisture or fluid leaking from them or from the block itself, just those areas I circled

Glad it is normal, thanks very much BNEG ... I appreciate the input

Contacted EK to see if they could make me a new top and just got told "EOL sorry" ... ... Tried CNC places in my area to see if they could recreate the top, but none of their machines can do it


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Yeah, there are some cracks in the acrylic which is why I wanted to leak test it, the cracks look bad, but there is no moisture or fluid leaking from them or from the block itself, just those areas I circled
> 
> Glad it is normal, thanks very much BNEG ... I appreciate the input
> 
> Contacted EK to see if they could make me a new top and just got told "EOL sorry" ... ... Tried CNC places in my area to see if they could recreate the top, but none of their machines can do it


You can use a wicking solvent.

It will weld the cracks,they will still be visible but not permeable.

http://www.shop4glue.com/polyweld-57ml-thin-plastic-plas-weld-glue-adhesive-perspex-polystyrene-acrylic-abs-hips-fivestar-51-p.asp

BTW,the machining is very simple 2.5D machining,if your local machine shop cant do it then they suck.....like amazing ballchoking suck... They dont want to make the model from scratch is all.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can use a wicking solvent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It will weld the cracks,they will still be visible but not permeable.
> 
> http://www.shop4glue.com/polyweld-57ml-thin-plastic-plas-weld-glue-adhesive-perspex-polystyrene-acrylic-abs-hips-fivestar-51-p.asp
> 
> BTW,the machining is very simple 2.5D machining,if your local machine shop cant do it then they suck.....like amazing ballchoking suck... They dont want to make the model from scratch is all.


I will see if they ship internationally and I will contact my local stores as well, thank you


----------



## Kostadinos

Μayhems Orange Pastel !!!!


----------



## jleslie246

Anyone have issues with Mayhem coolant where it looks like latex paint?


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Anyone have issues with Mayhem coolant where it looks like latex paint?


Did you use clear tubing?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Certain tubing doesn't agree with Mayhems Pastel fluids, they released a chart with approved tubing types to prevent issues.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Certain tubing doesn't agree with Mayhems Pastel fluids, they released a chart with approved tubing types to prevent issues.


No. Hard tubing. It smelled just like latex paint also. It took me about 4 hours to clean two radiators. boiling water, straight vinegar then distilled water several times of each and vinegar soak over night.


----------



## DarthBaggins

What kind of hard tubing though, PETG has been seen not to agree with it. Also was the fluid pre-mixed or did you buy the concentrate and mix yourself?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Lol, I drive a rustbucket of a 2006 Silverado that's been through the mud kinda like the tractor in your Avatar has. Hauled tons of wood and lots of other things with it (including a few dead bodies I don't know about... just kiddin'), and it's gotten me where I've wanted to go for more than 10 years now. Some of the those places you wouldn't dare drive a "BWM" into.


Yep, reason I love trucks. Though, I have a soft spot for old school beetles and karma ghias.

Anyway, can't remember if I posted this here. Temp setup for my [email protected]/BOINC rig. Nothing fancy but does the job.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What kind of hard tubing though, PETG has been seen not to agree with it. Also was the fluid pre-mixed or did you buy the concentrate and mix yourself?


Its mixed, acrylic and PETG. And the coolant was EK blood red then I drained, flushed and added Mayhems pastel (concentrate) white but apparently i did not flush well enough because it turned purple. I liked the color so i left it. I took it apart because I am completely rebuilding my system now that I have a 1080ti waterblock. I gutted my NZXT Switch 810 and i am starting all over. Going back with blood red but XSPC concentrate coolant this time around. Im also building all my own wires, sleeving, etc. It should look great


----------



## socalmvp

Hey guys, need a little help. I plan on water cooling my I7700K overclocked right now at 4.8 and my EVGA gtx 1080 sc. I did the EKWB configuration and it recommended one XE 360. Is it better to go with one thick rad or should I use 2 thin rads. I will be using the Define S case.

Thanks for your help


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socalmvp*
> 
> Hey guys, need a little help. I plan on water cooling my I7700K overclocked right now at 4.8 and my EVGA gtx 1080 sc. I did the EKWB configuration and it recommended one XE 360. Is it better to go with one thick rad or should I use 2 thin rads. I will be using the Define S case.
> 
> Thanks for your help


Two thin rads will usually be better than one thick rad. (Assuming each radiator is the same size and has it's own fans and mounting location. Just shoving two thinner rads against each other isn't going to be any better than a thick one.)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Its mixed, acrylic and PETG. And the coolant was EK blood red then I drained, flushed and added Mayhems pastel (concentrate) white but apparently i did not flush well enough because it turned purple. I liked the color so i left it. I took it apart because I am completely rebuilding my system now that I have a 1080ti waterblock. I gutted my NZXT Switch 810 and i am starting all over. Going back with blood red but XSPC concentrate coolant this time around. Im also building all my own wires, sleeving, etc. It should look great


It was the left over EK fluid that caused it, doesn't take much to cause a reaction. It took me forever to get the remnants of dyes out of my XSPC EX360, but it's been a great rad over the years.


----------



## jleslie246

Does anyone here use BXQINLENX connectors? I need 2 roatary 90 degree fittings. Bitspower are $15 each while these are about $4 each.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *socalmvp*
> 
> Hey guys, need a little help. I plan on water cooling my I7700K overclocked right now at 4.8 and my EVGA gtx 1080 sc. I did the EKWB configuration and it recommended one XE 360. Is it better to go with one thick rad or should I use 2 thin rads. I will be using the Define S case.
> 
> Thanks for your help
> 
> 
> 
> Two thin rads will usually be better than one thick rad. (Assuming each radiator is the same size and has it's own fans and mounting location. Just shoving two thinner rads against each other isn't going to be any better than a thick one.)
Click to expand...

This is true. However there isn't much room in a Define S. May find that two thin radiators would run into each other in that case. Unless someone has one and did have success fitting two 360s in it.

On the topic of two things rads over one thick, it's simple 101. More cooling surface(720mm) and fans = better perfmance. Although this still depends on the ambient wall.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is true. However there isn't much room in a Define S. May find that two thin radiators would run into each other in that case. Unless someone has one and did have success fitting two 360s in it.
> 
> On the topic of two things rads over one thick, it's simple 101. More cooling surface(720mm) and fans = better perfmance. Although this still depends on the ambient wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There are Define S cases that rock two 360 rads. Winds up as very tight fits, and you can't use the back fan spot in the case.

From the Define Case Thread:


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahkay, thicker than slim likely wouldn't work then. But glad to see that in the Define S.









~Ceadder


----------



## chibi

*Phase 3.0 Build Complete*

It took a few extra weeks to get here, but the build is finally done. She's up and purring like a beaut!







More pics in log


----------



## cdnvballer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hidden from all the usual photo angles I'm guessing even if they are in plain sight
> and of course they should be at a low point making them even harder to spot.
> 
> I think it's a good thing that you can't find them, so long as they are actually there and in a usable location.


What size radiators are you using? I'm looking into a similar setup for a build using same case, though undecided on cooling the gpu...


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Anyone have issues with Mayhem coolant where it looks like latex paint?


I had similar, but only after using distillate water without any additives during 2 months

Now I use Propylene glycol







it`s cheap and with all additives


----------



## jleslie246

amazing how it still managed to stay cool with all that gunk.


----------



## socalmvp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Two thin rads will usually be better than one thick rad. (Assuming each radiator is the same size and has it's own fans and mounting location. Just shoving two thinner rads against each other isn't going to be any better than a thick one.)


Are you saying I can't use a 240 and 360 together? I was thinking of doing a 240 on top as exhaust and a 360 in front as intake.

Thanks


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socalmvp*
> 
> Are you saying I can't use a 240 and 360 together? I was thinking of doing a 240 on top as exhaust and a 360 in front as intake.


You CAN use different size radiators. If using different size radiators, depending on what sizes they are, you might get LESS cooling. For example, I think a really thick 360mm rad would probably cool better than a thin 120mm + thin 360mm. (I don't know that for sure.)

My qualifier of "assuming same size" was only in relation to the statement of "two thin will be better than one thick." (a thin 240 + a thin 360 will still probably cool at least as well as a single thick 360mm, but there are a ton of variables and without testing the specific radiators I doubt anyone could know for sure.)


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socalmvp*
> 
> Are you saying I can't use a 240 and 360 together? I was thinking of doing a 240 on top as exhaust and a 360 in front as intake.
> 
> Thanks


No thats a valid radiator choice. Go the the biggest and fattest rads you can fit, combined with the highest static pressure fans you can afford.

As long as you don't have to compromise on the radiator surface area size (like 120 vs 240) its all good.


----------



## socalmvp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> You CAN use different size radiators. If using different size radiators, depending on what sizes they are, you might get LESS cooling. For example, I think a really thick 360mm rad would probably cool better than a thin 120mm + thin 360mm. (I don't know that for sure.)
> 
> My qualifier of "assuming same size" was only in relation to the statement of "two thin will be better than one thick." (a thin 240 + a thin 360 will still probably cool at least as well as a single thick 360mm, but there are a ton of variables and without testing the specific radiators I doubt anyone could know for sure.)


That is what I thought.

Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> No thats a valid radiator choice. Go the the biggest and fattest rads you can fit, combined with the highest static pressure fans you can afford.
> 
> As long as you don't have to compromise on the radiator surface area size (like 120 vs 240) its all good.


I just like the look of the thin better, that is why I wanted to use two rads plus I figured that would cool better.

Thanks


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> No thats a valid radiator choice. Go the the biggest and fattest rads you can fit, combined with the highest static pressure fans you can afford.
> 
> As long as you don't have to compromise on the radiator surface area size (like 120 vs 240) its all good.


# of fan positions is WAY more important than rad thickness. A thin 480 will ALWAYS outperform a thick 360 even if it's a 80x360 vs 30mmx480. Get as many fan holes covered as you can then go for thicker. Also keep in mind FPI (Fins per inch) lower FPI rads perform better at low speeds, cause less turbulence noise and collect/trap less dust. Higher FPI will have better cooling at med to high speed fans but at the cost of some noise and collecting more dust to be cleaned more often for best performance.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> # of fan positions is WAY more important than rad thickness. A thin 480 will ALWAYS outperform a thick 360 even if it's a 80x360 vs 30mmx480. Get as many fan holes covered as you can then go for thicker. Also keep in mind FPI (Fins per inch) lower FPI rads perform better at low speeds, cause less turbulence noise and collect/trap less dust. Higher FPI will have better cooling at med to high speed fans but at the cost of some noise and collecting more dust to be cleaned more often for best performance.


Thats not what I am trying to say. What I am trying to say is if you had a choice between thick 480 and thin 480, the thick one is better provided there are no space limitations. I also did agree that it is better to go for wider vs fat.


----------



## dallas1990

redid the loop with new tubing and water with some mayhems uv green dye.added a 140 mm 45mm thick rad no room for a fan sadly cause of the 420mm rad up top. added some white leds and uv leds. res has a uv cathrode in it but forgot to buy the inverter lol. but i love the new look. still fighting air after 5 hours cause of the 140 rad is upside down interms of the fittings but i got the pump maxed out for now and its pushing air out quite well. XD


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Now I use Propylene glycol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it`s cheap and with all additives


Exactly. I've been using propylene glycol (ie. car coolant) for over a decade now and never had a problem.

I remember on here years ago a number of us said we just used car coolant and so many lost their minds - but those same ppl are now using the "PC water coolant" (ie. car coolant with a "PC Coolant" label) in their loops now for the same reason me and many others have been using simple car coolant for years - car coolants have used additives to stop gunk and corrosion for almost a century, so it made a lot of sense to use it to stop the gunk and corrosion


----------



## kroaton

hi guys, i have an EK s240 kit and will soon going to add a 1080GTX WB to this loop. I will see if the temps will be fine, if not i was thinking to add a 120mm slim radiator to the loop (for lowering down the temps). But one guy was suggesting me to add another reservoir (water tank) to the loop rather than a new radiator. I thought that the reservoir are just for esthetics and have nothing to do with performances, but maybe i was wrong and there are cooling reservoir too on the market ? in that case i would prefer to add an additional water tank rather than an additional radiator (for aestethics reasons)


----------



## KaffieneKing

Definitely add a radiator and not a Res to lower temps!


----------



## dwolvin

Nah- you got it right. A res is just storage and sometimes can assist in bubble removal, but no cooling worth mentioning.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> hi guys, i have an EK s240 kit and will soon going to add a 1080GTX WB to this loop. I will see if the temps will be fine, if not i was thinking to add a 120mm slim radiator to the loop (for lowering down the temps). But one guy was suggesting me to add another reservoir (water tank) to the loop rather than a new radiator. I thought that the reservoir are just for esthetics and have nothing to do with performances, but maybe i was wrong and there are cooling reservoir too on the market ? in that case i would prefer to add an additional water tank rather than an additional radiator (for aestethics reasons)


The only thing adding a reservoir would do for your temps would be to make it take longer for the temps to rise. That's because there would be more volume of water to heat up. I don't know what kind of pump or CPU you have, but an EK s240 might be struggling to cool both your CPU (perhaps 110 watts of heat with your o/c) and a 1080 (> 150 watts of heat.)

Outside of marketing material, xtremerigs.net tested the larger SE 360 radiator (http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/07/03/ek-coolstream-se-360mm-radiator-review/4/) and found that it would need 6 fans running at 1300 RPM (in push/pull) to cool 267 watts (at a water temp 10C over ambient.) Based only on that review, I think it'd be reasonable to conclude that you need more radiator space than the smaller EK SE240.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Nah- you got it right. A res is just storage and sometimes can assist in bubble removal, but no cooling worth mentioning.


not even ergal/aluminium based water tanks?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> not even ergal/aluminium based water tanks?


Unless those tanks had fins on the outside and some kind of stirring system internally to swirl the coolant around. Actually, that kind of design is already halfway towards being a true radiator lol.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> not even ergal/aluminium based water tanks?


Unless the "tank" just happens to resemble a radiator and have air blowing through it, it likely won't make much difference at all.

Oh, sure.. it might help a tiny bit. Perhaps a 150mm aluminum tube res (which would be a REALLY BAD IDEA if you have any copper in your loop whatsoever) could dissipate a few watts of heat. Maybe even a dozen watts... if a fan is blowing on it.

Consider the surface area of a radiator with all those pipes and very thin fins... and then remember that fans are blowing against all that surface area. It's a cooling engine. A reservoir doesn't have nearly the amount of surface area...


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> The only thing adding a reservoir would do for your temps would be to make it take longer for the temps to rise. That's because there would be more volume of water to heat up. I don't know what kind of pump or CPU you have, but an EK s240 might be struggling to cool both your CPU (perhaps 110 watts of heat with your o/c) and a 1080 (> 150 watts of heat.)
> 
> Outside of marketing material, xtremerigs.net tested the larger SE 360 radiator (http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/07/03/ek-coolstream-se-360mm-radiator-review/4/) and found that it would need 6 fans running at 1300 RPM (in push/pull) to cool 267 watts (at a water temp 10C over ambient.) Based only on that review, I think it'd be reasonable to conclude that you need more radiator space than the smaller EK SE240.


yeah, that's why i will do a test by adding the 1080 EK waterblock to the current loop and if i see the temps too high, i will also add a 120mm slim rad, that should be enough for my build.
Anyway this is my pump, it's an entry level but i chose this for space purposes (i have a small case, see below), it's capable of 3,2 meters so it should be fine

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-spc-60-mx-pwm-incl-pump

http://imgur.com/y5YWzR3
http://imgur.com/kVOhf7E


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> yeah, that's why i will do a test by adding the 1080 EK waterblock to the current loop and if i see the temps too high, i will also add a 120mm slim rad, that should be enough for my build.
> Anyway this is my pump, it's an entry level but i chose this for space purposes (i have a small case), it's capable of 3,2 meters so it should be fine
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-spc-60-mx-pwm-incl-pump


I completely understand issues with a small case. I'm using a small corsair 460X RGB, and I run out of room every time a new particle of dust floats into the case.









Tossing some guesstimate numbers together for your machine:

Your "rigbuilder" suggests that you o/c your processor to >5Ghz, so it's probably generating in excess of 110 watts of heat. Just for rounding sake, call it 120 watts. The 1080 GTX has a graphics card power of 180 watts. Conveniently, those two numbers add up to 300 watts. So, you need radiators to dissipate 300 watts. Ideally, they'd do that with a temperature delta of 10C. For that, you will probably need more than 360mm of "thin" radiator without having noisy fans. (Based on the same site I mentioned above, EK's thickest 360mm rad, the XE360, would need push only fans at 1300 RPM to cool >300 watts with a 10C delta.)

There are some points I'm glossing over, however. You can run with a temp delta greater than 10 degrees. A radiator can dissipate more heat the greater the water temp is over ambient. As well, it's not very likely that your CPU and GPU will both be pumping out their max heat at the same time. More likely is that your GPU is pushing 180 watts and your CPU is 50-70 watts. (This assumes you aren't playing CPU heavy games.)

I don't think you're using any very restrictive items in your loop, so you should be fine with the SPC pump. Keep in mind it's max operating temp is only 50C, so if your water temps are getting higher (due to not having a lot of radiator surface area), you're going to be really pushing your pump as well. As well, the SPC pump probably isn't going to have a great flow rate with a CPU block, GPU block, and 2 rads... and lower flow rates _tend_ to reduce the cooling capabilities of radiators very slightly. If space is the only concern, I think EK's DDC pump is nearly the same size, uses the same tops, etc, but is more tolerate of temperature and more powerful.

My best suggestion would be to get more than 240mm of slim radiator and start thinking about upgrading your pump... (Personally, I'd replace the pump with a DDC and keep the SPC as a spare.)


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> http://imgur.com/kVOhf7E


Hey, that case looks like some of the spacing nightmares I dealt with! Here's a suggestion for you:

First, separate your pump and res. You can put the pump below your graphics card and mount the res above it. That would allow you to move your res down some, and probably fit a 240, 280 or even 360 radiator at the top of your case...


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Hey, that case looks like some of the spacing nightmares I dealt with! Here's a suggestion for you:
> 
> First, separate your pump and res. You can put the pump below your graphics card and mount the res above it. That would allow you to move your res down some, and probably fit a 240, 280 or even 360 radiator at the top of your case...


thanks but this is a pump/reservoir kit, i don't think they can be split, plus my case only has radiator support on the front (240 or 280) on the top there's only space for a single fan, anything bigger would hit against the motherboard, while i have some space in the back where i would place a 120mm rad
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I completely understand issues with a small case. I'm using a small corsair 460X RGB, and I run out of room every time a new particle of dust floats into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tossing some guesstimate numbers together for your machine:
> 
> Your "rigbuilder" suggests that you o/c your processor to >5Ghz, so it's probably generating in excess of 110 watts of heat. Just for rounding sake, call it 120 watts. The 1080 GTX has a graphics card power of 180 watts. Conveniently, those two numbers add up to 300 watts. So, you need radiators to dissipate 300 watts. Ideally, they'd do that with a temperature delta of 10C. For that, you will probably need more than 360mm of "thin" radiator without having noisy fans. (Based on the same site I mentioned above, EK's thickest 360mm rad, the XE360, would need push only fans at 1300 RPM to cool >300 watts with a 10C delta.)
> 
> There are some points I'm glossing over, however. You can run with a temp delta greater than 10 degrees. A radiator can dissipate more heat the greater the water temp is over ambient. As well, it's not very likely that your CPU and GPU will both be pumping out their max heat at the same time. More likely is that your GPU is pushing 180 watts and your CPU is 50-70 watts. (This assumes you aren't playing CPU heavy games.)
> 
> I don't think you're using any very restrictive items in your loop, so you should be fine with the SPC pump. Keep in mind it's max operating temp is only 50C, so if your water temps are getting higher (due to not having a lot of radiator surface area), you're going to be really pushing your pump as well. As well, the SPC pump probably isn't going to have a great flow rate with a CPU block, GPU block, and 2 rads... and lower flow rates _tend_ to reduce the cooling capabilities of radiators very slightly. If space is the only concern, I think EK's DDC pump is nearly the same size, uses the same tops, etc, but is more tolerate of temperature and more powerful.
> 
> My best suggestion would be to get more than 240mm of slim radiator and start thinking about upgrading your pump... (Personally, I'd replace the pump with a DDC and keep the SPC as a spare.)


yeah i understand your point but the issue is that i don't have possibilities to install a 360 rad in this case. I might try to place a thicker 240mm but the space is already limited now with a slim one....i could only fit a thick radiator if i mount the rad fans outside of the case, but the issue in that case would be that there wouldn't be much space for the fans to take air due to the front panel. see below:



I will check if the pump can be replaced with a better one using the same top and tube (and also supporting the same bracket), that's probably the only solution i have apart from adding a 120mm rad


----------



## docsys

Or you can think of getting a (slightly?) bigger case with better watercooling (radiator) support...


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> Or you can think of getting a (slightly?) bigger case with better watercooling (radiator) support...


yes but i loved how this looked like, and i replaced only 5 months ago







i will have to be happy with this for now


----------



## ivannooz

Guys don't judge me this build is awesome actually i know people asked my 1500x and i could have gone better cables and better led fans but this build was tailored to my client's budget and what he wants.

So we started all white and added uv water on it! looks great after put it all together..
it ran pretty nice on my ultrawide cf791 3440x1440p at high settings it was able to output 70-80 fps.

Here's the video build https://youtu.be/ujFx2Bpe4Yw

Let me know what you guys think of this build, i have more custom loop needs to be uploaded soon.











and here's my tease build for you guys!


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> yes but i loved how this looked like, and i replaced only 5 months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will have to be happy with this for now


But I think you wont be happy anymore when you get that 1080 under water...


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> But I think you wont be happy anymore when you get that 1080 under water...


i dont think any of us will be happy with our rigs lol cause alot of us keep changing stuff


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> i dont think any of us will be happy with our rigs lol cause alot of us keep changing stuff


Wow.. so very true. At least we don't get bored.


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> i dont think any of us will be happy with our rigs lol cause alot of us keep changing stuff


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> At least we don't get bored.


big fat AMEN!!!


----------



## Chaoz

My first try at a custom hard tube loop. Was too lazy to bend the tubes, so went with fittings instead. Quite like that look.
Finished it beginning of this year.
















































Some pics are a bit grainy as they were taken with my phone. My phone doesn't seem to like UV lighting in the dark a lot.


----------



## iamjanco

I personally like the parallel look. For one, it's symmetry jives with what's typically rectangular in nature.


----------



## jleslie246

Sorry to repost this, but I'm really looking for feedback before I put these in my build. I received 4 of them today and they feel exactly like the bitspower version.

Does anyone here use BXQINLENX connectors? I need 2 rotary 90 degree fittings. Bitspower are $15 each while these are about $4 each.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Ethics aside... most of the knock-offs are really pretty good quality - at least the ones I've tried - haven't even heard of those however. I'm sure they all come out of the same factory in China as Barrow and others.

Realistically, there will be failures with anything - but hopefully only rarely. I've had BP fittings leak too (even though at their prices you'd think they'd be bullet-proof). Build with them and let us know!

I've got a mix in my recent builds... and they work just fine together. QC is a little better with BP - but don't feel like it's 60-70% better commensurate with their price-premium.









Here's my latest:




This one was much more about getting it done fast... not necessarily "well".

Now I can think about what the 4th rebirth of my original M8 is gonna be...







Gotta always have one in process it seems.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> Im still waiting for ekwb evga 1080ti ftw3 gpu blocks. They say early june. Iv been sitting on a pile of custom loop parts for a few weeks now. They come out with at least 3 3rd party pcb's blocks dont know why evga ftw3 taking so long. Does anyone know of any other company that has gpu blocks for the ftw3?
> Thanks


Found some additional info over on the eVGA forum. It's post no. 17 in this linked thread.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivannooz*
> 
> and here's my tease build for you guys!


Im going to need more shots of that last picture. That looks amazing. Running the processor and gpu parallel? Oh boy!!

TCO


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @rolldog
> 
> I think the maincorn (someone can link his profile) buys the steel off of mccar.com?
> 
> TCO
> 
> Its szeged, he sent me this link.
> 
> https://www.mcmaster.com
> 
> And then the tubing of choice. ( I was way off on the mccar etc) tired from the Lafayette Car show.


Thanks TCO, I'll have to look into this. I've been in Bora Bora since Friday and won't be back until Monday, so I haven't been on this forum, or the internet that is, for a while. I'll take a look after returning from paradise.


----------



## Yukss

edit


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Thanks TCO, I'll have to look into this. I've been in Bora Bora since Friday and won't be back until Monday, so I haven't been on this forum, or the internet that is, for a while. I'll take a look after returning from paradise.


Never a problem boss.

TCO


----------



## bundymania

Alphacool Eisblock XPX - New Acrylic Version !






























Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXEEM0-nvyM


----------



## fast_fate




----------



## ivannooz





First Ryzen UV white Build what do you guys think


----------



## KaffieneKing

@fast_fate looks amazing! But what is it?


----------



## kroaton

is there anybody with the WB EK Supremacy MX? since it's all plexy except for the top which is black aluminium, i was wondering if it would be possible to remove the 4 screws and show the plexy so you can see the liquid flow inside (just like the Supremacy EVO). Is it possible or the top it's needed for stopping the water to flow outside?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> is there anybody with the WB EK Supremacy MX? since it's all plexy except for the top which is black aluminium, i was wondering if it would be possible to remove the 4 screws and show the plexy so you can see the liquid flow inside (just like the Supremacy EVO). Is it possible or the top it's needed for stopping the water to flow outside?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Defintely doesnt touch the water, think its an aesthetic cover as gathered by this review.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @fast_fate looks amazing! But what is it?


Cheers









*CaseLabs External Rad Box*


----------



## gulvastr

My water cooled rig


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Anyone have issues with Mayhem coolant where it looks like latex paint?


That happened to mine a couple of months ago, and I ended up cleaning out all of my blocks and acrylic tubing. I used distilled water and vinegar to do the trick, and it cleaned it right out. For those fine water channels on the block, I used a toothbrush and Xacto-blade... yes Xacto-blade. Sometimes you need something rigid to comb deep inside those water channels.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gulvastr*
> 
> My water cooled rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great man, and love the wallpaper!


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Anyone have issues with Mayhem coolant where it looks like latex paint?


That's probably not from the dye itself but rather other contaminants and/or plasticiser clogging up the micro-channels - which then get coloured by the dye.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @fast_fate looks amazing! But what is it?


Looks like an external radiator enclosure. Also, going by the power buttons on the front, the pump and fans go off a power supply inside that case.

Pretty darn neat I say.


----------



## Bogga

Getting ready for DH. Sleeving done, emptied cpu-loop, replaced the black adapters for white ones and filled her up again... Now it's only covers for rads and psu left to do


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Looks like an external radiator enclosure. Also, going by the power buttons on the front, the pump and fans go off a power supply inside that case.
> 
> Pretty darn neat I say.


Cheers









Correct and it does indeed have it's own PSU for independent operation.
BUT
I also custom wired a pair of 15 pin VGA plugs (1 for rad box & 1 for system case) so it can be tethered for monitoring & control of PWM fans & pump, plus the rad box's 3 temp sensors.


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> 
> redid the loop with new tubing and water with some mayhems uv green dye.added a 140 mm 45mm thick rad no room for a fan sadly cause of the 420mm rad up top. added some white leds and uv leds. res has a uv cathrode in it but forgot to buy the inverter lol. but i love the new look. still fighting air after 5 hours cause of the 140 rad is upside down interms of the fittings but i got the pump maxed out for now and its pushing air out quite well. XD


ok while adding more fluid to replace the air i saw something horrifying. i have knked the tubiing by a significant marging. pump still got fluid. but the 3/8 inch inner diameter tubing was at most 1/3 third of that. so i have to fix that lol. i should of noticed it sooner since my idle temps where a little high. but i thought it was the air. the kink was from res to pump.

got the kink fixed. and refilled the loop. i love this uv green reminds me of the predator's blood from the movies


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> is there anybody with the WB EK Supremacy MX? since it's all plexy except for the top which is black aluminium, i was wondering if it would be possible to remove the 4 screws and show the plexy so you can see the liquid flow inside (just like the Supremacy EVO). Is it possible or the top it's needed for stopping the water to flow outside?


Once you get that Alu plate off, it's not going to look very nice- there is a web of internal reinforcement that will block visibility. Might want to look at the transparent Eisblocks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> is there anybody with the WB EK Supremacy MX? since it's all plexy except for the top which is black aluminium, i was wondering if it would be possible to remove the 4 screws and show the plexy so you can see the liquid flow inside (just like the Supremacy EVO). Is it possible or the top it's needed for stopping the water to flow outside?


Sell the MX and buy an EVO


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Sell the MX and buy an EVO


I've only recently bought the MX, I was wondering if i could just take off the cover in order to show the EK red pastel liquid on the WB.
If it really looks bad then yes i will use it for some months and later on switch to the EVO


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would just go ahead and sell it and order an EVO, but you get what you pay for.


----------



## 0ldChicken

You can replace just the top of the mx with an evo top. Theyre about 16$ and were available at ppcs. I had to email them for one recently though (still have it sitting around since plans changed and i went monoblock)


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> You can replace just the top of the mx with an evo top. Theyre about 16$ and were available at ppcs. I had to email them for one recently though (still have it sitting around since plans changed and i went monoblock)


What top did you go with? I'm only seeing acetal and nickel. Is the plexi top available?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> What top did you go with? I'm only seeing acetal and nickel. Is the plexi top available?


I'm actually not going to use the evo now cause i got a monoblock instead but ive used the plexi and nickel on my MX (BTW the nickel one is brass not copper underneath)
i had to email ppcs and ask for the plexi one. also took a few weeks so I'm assuming they had to order it. I know @PPCs-Matt has been around so maybe he can help more! Also i sent you a PM


----------



## sli_shroom

minor update



kinda hard to get a decent pic with a cell


----------



## kroaton

what do you guys should be the delta temperature between CPU idle and ambient temperature? i have 26c ambient temp and 32c on idle cpu so 6 degrees of difference. Is it good?


----------



## dallas1990

that sounds good to me. mine is 25 degrees ambient and im rocking 32-35 degrees idle. though im using only 3 140mm fans. im experimenting with some cooling ideas lol


----------



## H4mm3R2

Hi
Maybe the topic was already discussed, I do not know what name to look for it. That's why I ask here.
How work this way of water cooling? I mean the connection GPU with CPU.
It is so efficient as a pump > GPU > cooler > CPU > .. Or just only looks cool?
Thanks for the answer


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4mm3R2*
> 
> Hi
> Maybe the topic was already discussed, I do not know what name to look for it. That's why I ask here.
> How work this way of water cooling? I mean the connection GPU with CPU.
> It is so efficient as a pump > GPU > cooler > CPU > .. Or just only looks cool?
> Thanks for the answer


Theoretically yes its more efficient to allow heat dissipation from component -> rad before going to the next component. As a practicality, its irrelevant unless your flow rate is extremely low (like waaaay below 1GPM) due to inadequate pumping power. Even then, the difference is probably only 4-5 degrees or so.

This is not like a car engine where hundreds of degrees of heat is involved.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *H4mm3R2*
> 
> Hi
> Maybe the topic was already discussed, I do not know what name to look for it. That's why I ask here.
> How work this way of water cooling? I mean the connection GPU with CPU.
> It is so efficient as a pump > GPU > cooler > CPU > .. Or just only looks cool?
> Thanks for the answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theoretically yes its more efficient to allow heat dissipation from component -> rad before going to the next component. As a practicality, its irrelevant unless your flow rate is extremely low (like waaaay below 1GPM) due to inadequate pumping power. Even then, the difference is probably only 4-5 degrees or so.
> 
> This is not like a car engine where hundreds of degrees of heat is involved.
Click to expand...

I believe you missed the point of his question . . . .

The loop he showed is a parallel setup for the CPU / GPU, where the alternative he asked about is a serial setup.

His question was about whether there's advantages of a parallel loop over a serial loop, or does it just look cool.

Not about whether there's an advantage to having a rad between the CPU and GPU in a serial loop.

In general, the builds with parallel loops get about the same temps as the serially laid out loops, so there's no real temp advantages either way, but the parallel loops allow for some unique tubing layouts, and do oftentimes have a unique aesthetics based appeal.

Can't imagine where you get the 4 - 5 degrees number from, as it takes 264 watts of power to raise the water temp 1 degree C with a 1GPM flow rate, but then that wasn't even the gist of the question.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

This may be a stupid question, but yeah ...

I was given a bunch of multi-link adapters, what are they for ? ... They don't look like regular compression fittings.


----------



## sli_shroom

they have o-rings in them, which seal against rigid tubing


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> they have o-rings in them, which seal against rigid tubing


Does it have a specific use or can you use them for all components in the loop ? (as long as it's the right size hard tube)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> they have o-rings in them, which seal against rigid tubing
> 
> 
> 
> Does it have a specific use or can you use them for all components in the loop ? (as long as it's the right size hard tube)
Click to expand...

IIRC, Multi Link Adapter is a Bitspower specific name for their C47, C48, C67 fittings.

They fit only Bp 10/12 hard tubing, Used to be able to use E22 with them, but not in years now.

They do work very well and have a very minimalist look.

D.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> IIRC, Multi Link Adapter is a Bitspower specific name for their C47, C48, C67 fittings.
> 
> They fit only Bp 10/12 hard tubing, Used to be able to use E22 with them, but not in years now.
> 
> They do work very well and have a very minimalist look.
> 
> D.


These are the C89 ... They the right size for the loop I am busy building (which is why I was given them) but they didn't seem like they would be very secure ... so I was wondering if they were worth using and where they were used (thought they were some specific type of fitting)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> These are the C89 ... They the right size for the loop I am busy building (which is why I was given them) but they didn't seem like they would be very secure ... so I was wondering if they were worth using and where they were used (thought they were some specific type of fitting)


They have double O rings inside of them.









No worries. Also it appears that the C89 is for 16mm OD

TCO


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Thanks TCO









Yeah, they are double o-ring and my loop is 16mm rigid.

Can't wait to assemble it all


----------



## H4mm3R2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Theoretically yes its more efficient to allow heat dissipation from component -> rad before going to the next component. As a practicality, its irrelevant unless your flow rate is extremely low (like waaaay below 1GPM) due to inadequate pumping power. Even then, the difference is probably only 4-5 degrees or so.
> 
> This is not like a car engine where hundreds of degrees of heat is involved.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I believe you missed the point of his question . . . .
> 
> The loop he showed is a parallel setup for the CPU / GPU, where the alternative he asked about is a serial setup.
> 
> His question was about whether there's advantages of a parallel loop over a serial loop, or does it just look cool.
> 
> Not about whether there's an advantage to having a rad between the CPU and GPU in a serial loop.
> 
> In general, the builds with parallel loops get about the same temps as the serially laid out loops, so there's no real temp advantages either way, but the parallel loops allow for some unique tubing layouts, and do oftentimes have a unique aesthetics based appeal.
> 
> Can't imagine where you get the 4 - 5 degrees number from, as it takes 264 watts of power to raise the water temp 1 degree C with a 1GPM flow rate, but then that wasn't even the gist of the question.


Thank you for concrete responses. Now I know that I have to order new fittings and rebuild my loop.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> what do you guys should be the delta temperature between CPU idle and ambient temperature? i have 26c ambient temp and 32c on idle cpu so 6 degrees of difference. Is it good?


This might sound silly, but in my experience, with every custom loop I've had, idle temperature was higher than idle temperature on air. But load temperatures were significantly lower.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, they are double o-ring and my loop is 16mm rigid.
> 
> *Can't wait to assemble it all*


That makes two of Us.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> This might sound silly, but in my experience, with every custom loop I've had, idle temperature was higher than idle temperature on air. But load temperatures were significantly lower.


Is that a single loop (processor only) vs a processor only (air) ?

Most of the time the loop incorporates the gpu and cpu in the same single loop, leading to higher idle temps (Possibly)

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> what do you guys should be the delta temperature between CPU idle and ambient temperature? i have 26c ambient temp and 32c on idle cpu so 6 degrees of difference. Is it good?
> 
> 
> 
> This might sound silly, but in my experience, with every custom loop I've had, idle temperature was higher than idle temperature on air. But load temperatures were significantly lower.
Click to expand...

Not as silly as you might think . . .

In an air system, the air thru the cooler is always at ambient, (or really close to it) whether you just turned it on after being off all night, or it's been running for hours.

A liquid system, if it's been off for a long time, has the liquid at ambient, and idle temps will be really good, as there's the greatest delta between the block and the liquid, transferring the most heat out of the block . . .

Of course with the liquid at ambient, there's no transfer of heat out of the liquid to the rad, so the liquid temp will rise.

As it rises, the transfer at the block becomes less efficient, (lower delta) but the transfer to the rad becomes more efficient because of the higher delta.

When the liquid reaches a temp where the heat from the block transfers to the liquid at the same rate that the heat from the liquid transfers to the rad, that's what's referred to as equilibrium.

At that temp though, the liquid is above ambient, even if it's just at idle, so that the idle temp you see for the CPU is likely to be higher than the air cooler which always has ambient temp air passing thru it.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> is there anybody with the WB EK Supremacy MX? since it's all plexy except for the top which is black aluminium, i was wondering if it would be possible to remove the 4 screws and show the plexy so you can see the liquid flow inside (just like the Supremacy EVO). Is it possible or the top it's needed for stopping the water to flow outside?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you get that Alu plate off, it's not going to look very nice- there is a web of internal reinforcement that will block visibility. Might want to look at the transparent Eisblocks.
Click to expand...

I will never again be able to recommend alpha cool

http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-pump-vpp755-review-of-noise-issues-and-problems


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I will never again be able to recommend alpha cool
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-pump-vpp755-review-of-noise-issues-and-problems


Agreed... I have decided to now call the Alphafool. Because either your a fool for giving them your money, a fool for believing you have any warranty or the foolish way they handle customer product issues... Take your pick of reasons.
That's right you heard that phrase here first. swISH ALPHAFOOL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> is there anybody with the WB EK Supremacy MX? since it's all plexy except for the top which is black aluminium, i was wondering if it would be possible to remove the 4 screws and show the plexy so you can see the liquid flow inside (just like the Supremacy EVO). Is it possible or the top it's needed for stopping the water to flow outside?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you get that Alu plate off, it's not going to look very nice- there is a web of internal reinforcement that will block visibility. Might want to look at the transparent Eisblocks.
Click to expand...

Why not simply replace the top with an EVO acrilyc top, and be done with it. The replacement top is way less spendy than purchasing a new block.









The MX screws are a touch shorter than the EVO screws so I would recommend tightening to snug and letting it go at that. Otherwise you could/would Crack the thread points. But it should be a direct replacement. Might require another insert with the added internal space. Not quite sure on that score but it's what I would do to get the clarity required.









~Ceadder


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Agreed... I have decided to now call the Alphafool. Because either your a fool for giving them your money, a fool for believing you have any warranty or the foolish way they handle customer product issues... Take your pick of reasons.
> That's right you heard that phrase here first. swISH ALPHAFOOL


Well, I've always found them to be the "Thermaltake of Germany" IMO... but I still like their radiators... or at least their older ones. In reality I guess I just liked their form factor the most and all those ports really do make difficult loops much easier to deal with. Not that they're the only ones with 6-7 port bungs on their radiators... but they were consistently one of the few with good efficiency as well.

Never really considered them for other things (fittings, blocks, etc.) as they seemed to be much cheaper (though not much less expensive). Hence "Thermaltake-ish".


----------



## alienalvan

2nd build of budgeted custom loop for my friend, within $100 budget with 240mm rad + 120mm rad + pump + reservoir + fittings + pipe + CPU & GPU block.
(PS: Swapped the blue fans into the case to look more balance, vendor send the wrong fan to me)


----------



## sli_shroom

nice...but that hose clamp...


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> nice...but that hose clamp...


Yup i know it doesn't blend in very well







just putting there to prevent the pipe bend, any good recommendation to replace that clamp?


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> 2nd build of budgeted custom loop for my friend, within $100 budget with 240mm rad + 120mm rad + pump + reservoir + fittings + pipe + CPU & GPU block.
> (PS: Swapped the blue fans into the case to look more balance, vendor send the wrong fan to me)


hows possible all this stuff in 100$?did u buy on aliexpress?


----------



## garyd9

I added an EK water block to my graphics card, switched my front rad to a hwlabs GTS360, and a bit of accent LED behind the reservoir (just to give the res a bit of subtle glow.) Unless my radiator isn't sufficient for cooling both my CPU and graphics card, I'm probably done with tinkering with this machine until I switch to hard tubing...



With a flash, so the blue coloring isn't quite so overwhelming:


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> hows possible all this stuff in 100$?did u buy on aliexpress?


Well i bought it from Taobao which is China online shopping web with full combo package, i choose package 3 which contain the parts i listed & adding in a few more 90 fittings + 120mm radiator & the vendor quote me around RMB470.
Walaa... a cheap & working custom loop. LoL


----------



## dwolvin

Wow- I had not heard of all the AlphaCool problems, That sucks. You'd think that EK's issues would have taught everyone that being upfront is best. But I guess not... Anyway- Not a shill for anyone, I was just putting in my two cents...

But thanks for the info!


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Wow- I had not heard of all the AlphaCool problems, That sucks. You'd think that EK's issues would have taught everyone that being upfront is best. But I guess not... Anyway- Not a shill for anyone, I was just putting in my two cents...
> 
> But thanks for the info!


Anyway the supremacy Evo plexy wb performs also better than the alphacool one, so I will probably go for that in the future


----------



## sli_shroom

nice...but that hose clamp...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Yup i know it doesn't blend in very well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just putting there to prevent the pipe bend, any good recommendation to replace that clamp?


not the lowest cost route, but...

could you replace the fitting at the rad with an extender (they make them in different lengths), then put a 90 on the end of it. that should allow you to line up the ends do it is a straight (but really short) path down to the card

extenders http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=extender

or maybe a snake/adapter would work to essentially create a hard line

snake adapters http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=snake


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> Anyway the supremacy Evo plexy wb performs also better than the alphacool one, so I will probably go for that in the future


Eh, at this point I think that all of the top blocks are close enough in performance that it's more about how good the install is than anything. I still have the EK-cheap supremacy (MX?) that came with my first kit, and when I build my new rig I'll look as much for price and looks as anything.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Will fittings survive being splashed by fluid ? ... The reason I ask is cause I bought the 250 mod kit from Bitspower but it never came with that "downpipe" that goes into the res.

So I was considering just slapping a fitting inside the res and then running some hard pipe inside the res


----------



## Mega Man

yes, but you need to be careful, alot of fittings use AL on the outside ( the compression type. )

if one piece fittings then you are ok no matter what. they are brass or stainless usually ( i am assuming using quality fittings. )


----------



## kidcapp

Latest build









7700 k @ 5.1 ghz
ASUS Z270 Extreme IX MB
G skill ram @ 3600 GHZ
EK-CoolStream CE 420 Rads x 2
Seasonic prime 850W PSU
Nvidia 1080 TI FE
EK-CryoFuel Lime Yellow
All EKWB water-cooling parts
Hex Gear R80 case




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, but you need to be careful, alot of fittings use AL on the outside ( the compression type. )
> 
> if one piece fittings then you are ok no matter what. they are brass or stainless usually ( i am assuming using quality fittings. )


Hi,

I am using the C89 Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Will fittings survive being splashed by fluid ? ... The reason I ask is cause I bought the 250 mod kit from Bitspower but it never came with that "downpipe" that goes into the res.
> 
> So I was considering just slapping a fitting inside the res and then running some hard pipe inside the res


It's called an Aquapipe and you should be able to find one on PPC.

Though if you choose not to purchase that, the fittings and tubing would work as well.

TCO


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's called an Aquapipe and you should be able to find one on PPC.
> 
> Though if you choose not to purchase that, the fittings and tubing would work as well.
> 
> TCO


Thanks once again, just added it to my cart


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks once again, just added it to my cart


You added the aquapipe to your cart? I ask because I believe the aquapipe is bigger than the standard G 1/4 size, so I hope the threaded hole you speak of is meant for that.









TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks once again, just added it to my cart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You added the aquapipe to your cart? I ask because I believe the aquapipe is bigger than the standard G 1/4 size, so I hope the threaded hole you speak of is meant for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

The Bp aqua pipes are regular G1/4, but not included in the Upgrade kits.

You might want to order a 3 port top as well, so that you can have a fill / bleed port separate from the return line.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> Latest build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7700 k @ 5.1 ghz
> ASUS Z270 Extreme IX MB
> G skill ram @ 3600 GHZ
> EK-CoolStream CE 420 Rads x 2
> Seasonic prime 850W PSU
> Nvidia 1080 TI FE
> EK-CryoFuel Lime Yellow
> All EKWB water-cooling parts
> Hex Gear R80 case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build! Do you happen to have any pictures with the side panel on? I'm setting up the lighting for my own R80 build, and I would love to see how yours looks


----------



## ivannooz

First of all i think this build is epic i took my time, not the best build out there but definitely it's a kickass.

This rig is more like personal rig on Sigma case from Raidmax originally the inside part was all black, and i decided to paint it all to white it wasn't that hard but takes some time definitely.

i7 7700k pushed to 5.2ghz max temp 69c of course with the help of cooling components and of the best cpu block out there the koolance! plus the cpu was delided and applied liquid metal.

My M.2 SSD is fairly priced 480gb at 199$ (that time) at the speed of 2600mbps i couldn't complain.

Gigabyte Designare pretty much matches the build it's a z270 mobo with rgb backlit on the mobo so i'm pretty much happy with it.

Gigabyte 1080 ti FE with Titan X Pascal waterblock also applied liquid metal on it here's the video how i did it as well. plus 160 on the core and 500 on memory no overvoltage as i have no option to do so and my max temp is 45c.



Raidmax Sigma case is awesome for modding as you guys can see i took off the front, and top panel replacing with awesome acrylic glass where you can get at your local hardware store for less than 20$

RGB Fans that i purchased from amazon but they're out of stock so i linked the ebay site instead and it's in the video box description of the video.

If you guys wanna see more videos and build like this please look no other than ivannooz though i'm not professional i'm just an army dad with a really nice hobby









Let me know what you guys think.

I have compiled a video for you guys to see how it was done


----------



## wizardbro

This problem is causing me a huge headache. One of my modmytoys fan splitter PCBs stopped working after 7 months.

Example:


I've got two of them powering 3 fans each.
Problem is, the one that stopped working is the one that's deep inside, sandwiched between my two radiators and impossible to get to.


(The vertical one inside)

I've got two 360 rads side by side.
So now I've got 2 fans not working on one of my rads and one fan not working on the other rad.

Is it bad to have my one of my rads cooled only by one fan for a couple of months while I procrastinate over dismantling my whole case to deal with this?
I'm not too worried about the rad that's still got 2 fans running and my overall temps are still fine with 3/6 fans. Gpu and cpu in the low 60s in intensive games.


You can spot the running fans in this one.
Ugh.....
I hate modmytoys.


----------



## kidcapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Nice build! Do you happen to have any pictures with the side panel on? I'm setting up the lighting for my own R80 build, and I would love to see how yours looks


Thank you, here is one with the side panel on.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> This problem is causing me a huge headache. One of my modmytoys fan splitter PCBs stopped working after 7 months.
> 
> Example:
> 
> 
> I've got two of them powering 3 fans each.
> Problem is, the one that stopped working is the one that's deep inside, sandwiched between my two radiators and impossible to get to.
> 
> 
> (The vertical one inside)
> 
> I've got two 360 rads side by side.
> So now I've got 2 fans not working on one of my rads and one fan not working on the other rad.
> 
> Is it bad to have my one of my rads cooled only by one fan for a couple of months while I procrastinate over dismantling my whole case to deal with this?
> I'm not too worried about the rad that's still got 2 fans running and my overall temps are still fine with 3/6 fans. Gpu and cpu in the low 60s in intensive games.
> 
> 
> You can spot the running fans in this one.
> Ugh.....
> I hate modmytoys.


Buy the Silverstone PWM hub, worth it. http://www.microcenter.com/product/468586/CPF04_PWM_Fan_Hub


----------



## paskowitz

So, I am having flow problems. Got my system topped off, but it is barely trickling. https://youtu.be/xK9q0z9rGB4

I've cleaned out my blocks (nothing was in them). Obviously don't have my loop order messed up (duh). D5 pulls water just fine on fill up. No kinks. No egregiously restrictive blocks.

At first I thought I have too many 45/90 fittings (16... lol I know). I had like 9 or 10 before and everything was fine with my old H240X so 6 more and a D5 should be fine? That shouldn't overwhelm a D5 going through a CPU/GPU/VRM blocks and 2 rads. I've seen people a D5 power through 4 blocks no problem. Feel free to tell me if I am wrong???

Right now I am thinking it's one of my radiators. I had a metric crap ton of flux in my Hardware Labs 360 GTR when I first got it (I'm past the return window but in warranty). I flushed it no less 10 times, a few with a light mix of vinegar. Even after all that, I could still hear flux in the rad (tilt rad up and down). So I figured, if it's not coming out, it's not coming out (no flux in my fluid ATM). Is it possible this could be restricting my flow?

Right now, I am a bit perplexed. Anything I could be missing? Fittings really the problem? RMA the rad? Sigh. Thanks for the help.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidcapp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Nice build! Do you happen to have any pictures with the side panel on? I'm setting up the lighting for my own R80 build, and I would love to see how yours looks
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, here is one with the side panel on.
Click to expand...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> So, I am having flow problems. Got my system topped off, but it is barely trickling.
> 
> I've cleaned out my blocks (nothing was in them). Obviously don't have my loop order messed up (duh). D5 pulls water just fine on fill up. No kinks. No egregiously restrictive blocks.
> 
> At first I thought I have too many 45/90 fittings (16... lol I know). I had like 9 or 10 before and everything was fine with my old H240X so 6 more and a D5 should be fine? That shouldn't overwhelm a D5 going through a CPU/GPU/VRM blocks and 2 rads. I've seen people a D5 power through 4 blocks no problem. Feel free to tell me if I am wrong???
> 
> Right now I am thinking it's one of my radiators. I had a metric crap ton of flux in my Hardware Labs 360 GTR when I first got it (I'm past the return window but in warranty). I flushed it no less 10 times, a few with a light mix of vinegar. Even after all that, I could still hear flux in the rad (tilt rad up and down). So I figured, if it's not coming out, it's not coming out (no flux in my fluid ATM). Is it possible this could be restricting my flow?
> 
> Right now, I am a bit perplexed. Anything I could be missing? Fittings really the problem? RMA the rad? Sigh. Thanks for the help.


My vote is on a block (jet plate) being clogged.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> My vote is on a block (jet plate) being clogged.


Like I said, I cleaned them out (rinse, tooth brush, air gun). Thoughts on the video I posted?


----------



## zu903

Completely rebuilt my loop and added the singularity computer res pump combo.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Buy the Silverstone PWM hub, worth it. http://www.microcenter.com/product/468586/CPF04_PWM_Fan_Hub


From the looks of it that isn't really an option. He has 3 pin fans on the splitter so powered one will just run them at full speed.
I have had good luck with my modmytoys splitters for how cheap they are. Another option is the Phobya models. They are sort of half way between the basic modmytoys and the high quality Silverstone. They have only one rpm header connected but they can be powered by an external source or straight from a controller because of their pcb design where the Silverstone can only be powered externally.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You added the aquapipe to your cart? I ask because I believe the aquapipe is bigger than the standard G 1/4 size, so I hope the threaded hole you speak of is meant for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I double checked and it is a G1/4 thread just like IT DIVA said.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Bp aqua pipes are regular G1/4, but not included in the Upgrade kits.
> 
> You might want to order a 3 port top as well, so that you can have a fill / bleed port separate from the return line.


I am going to use a Y splitter and have a line running to the top of my case for a fill port


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> So, I am having flow problems. Got my system topped off, but it is barely trickling. https://youtu.be/xK9q0z9rGB4
> 
> I've cleaned out my blocks (nothing was in them). Obviously don't have my loop order messed up (duh). D5 pulls water just fine on fill up. No kinks. No egregiously restrictive blocks.
> 
> At first I thought I have too many 45/90 fittings (16... lol I know). I had like 9 or 10 before and everything was fine with my old H240X so 6 more and a D5 should be fine? That shouldn't overwhelm a D5 going through a CPU/GPU/VRM blocks and 2 rads. I've seen people a D5 power through 4 blocks no problem. Feel free to tell me if I am wrong???
> 
> Right now I am thinking it's one of my radiators. I had a metric crap ton of flux in my Hardware Labs 360 GTR when I first got it (I'm past the return window but in warranty). I flushed it no less 10 times, a few with a light mix of vinegar. Even after all that, *I could still hear flux in the rad (tilt rad up and down)*. So I figured, if it's not coming out, it's not coming out (no flux in my fluid ATM). Is it possible this could be restricting my flow?
> 
> Right now, I am a bit perplexed. Anything I could be missing? Fittings really the problem? RMA the rad? Sigh. Thanks for the help.


Its not flux,its a solder ball and its never coming out.


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> From the looks of it that isn't really an option. He has 3 pin fans on the splitter so powered one will just run them at full speed.
> I have had good luck with my modmytoys splitters for how cheap they are. Another option is the Phobya models. They are sort of half way between the basic modmytoys and the high quality Silverstone. They have only one rpm header connected but they can be powered by an external source or straight from a controller because of their pcb design where the Silverstone can only be powered externally.


Yep, they're all controlled DC by the mobo. The phobya ones were hard to purchase for me because of where I live, but I'll have to look into buying them now.
I don't understand how a fan splitter like this stops functioning anyway, all the solder points at the back and the pins look completely fine, but then again I don't know anything about pcbs.


----------



## Danman980

Hello Guys ,

Just thought I'd share a video with you of my new res/pump combo from Radikult Custom . Its a CNC machined acrylic res with mounting holes for 240mm fan spaces. I've built a custom bracket to hold it in my Thermaltake Core X9 case . I've lit it with NZXT LED's . The video production is ordinary but I hardly ever make videos. Here is the youtube link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2q9hcOWTMco.

See what you think.

Dan.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Here's my current configuration and a few questions

Better view:

Is there even a point to having the rear 140mm Cougar? I have 2x 140mm fans intaking from bottom and 2x 120 Corsair ML fans on intake for Alphacool 240mm mounted in the front. Black ICE GTS 360 is exhaust with Asaka Apache fans.

Would a rear exhaust or intake help any, of should I just put a blank over it?

I also have an additional Alphacool 120mm ST which I can use as rear exhaust/intake. Just wanted opinions on whether adding the rad will do little for additional cooling and whether intake or exhaust for that rear fan would be the best choice. As always, thanks guys


----------



## Danman980

With a 240mm rad and a 360mm rad on a single cpu and gpu I don't think you would need any extra cooling at all unless your trying to go super quiet with it. I would just blank off the rear fan hole and check your temps while in regular use and see if you have any detectable change.


----------



## kroaton

By listening to Jay a slim alu 240 rad is well enough for cooling a CPU + 1080GTX! wow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iqg6z-4DhxM


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Is it normal that HL GTR360 rads come with 43mm long mounting screws ? ...

I can put the screw through my case, through a fan and it still has almost 5mm of free play


----------



## utparatrooper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Is it normal that HL GTR360 rads come with 43mm long mounting screws ? ...
> 
> I can put the screw through my case, through a fan and it still has almost 5mm of free play


I just installed the same radiator last week. While I didn't measure the longer of the screw set beforehand, I put it through the fan and into the radiator and made sure that it didn't touch the small plate that protects the tube/fins. I didn't encounter any issues.

Maybe they accidentally provided you with a different set?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Is it normal that HL GTR360 rads come with 43mm long mounting screws ? ...
> 
> I can put the screw through my case, through a fan and it still has almost 5mm of free play


Yes, that option is in case you want to use 38 mm thick fans. Don't use them with 25 mm thick fans obviously. You should have 30 mm long screws also in there.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utparatrooper*
> 
> I just installed the same radiator last week. While I didn't measure the longer of the screw set beforehand, I put it through the fan and into the radiator and made sure that it didn't touch the small plate that protects the tube/fins. I didn't encounter any issues.
> 
> Maybe they accidentally provided you with a different set?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, that option is in case you want to use 38 mm thick fans. Don't use them with 25 mm thick fans obviously. You should have 30 mm long screws also in there.


I thought the same thing, but I have like 43mm screws and a pack of 10mm screws ...

Now I hope I can find the right thread locally else I have to contact PPCs again and wait another decade


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I thought the same thing, but I have like 43mm screws and a pack of 10mm screws ...
> 
> Now I hope I can find the right thread locally else I have to contact PPCs again and wait another decade


Let me see if I can help speed up this process. I'll contact both HWLabs and PPCs.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Let me see if I can help speed up this process. I'll contact both HWLabs and PPCs.


That would be epic, even if it is just for information, shipping costs to my country are insane so that may have to wait a bit


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Is it normal that HL GTR360 rads come with 43mm long mounting screws ? ...
> 
> I can put the screw through my case, through a fan and it still has almost 5mm of free play


Same thing happened to me with the GTR280 I got. I just got a pack of shorter ones off Amazon. Luckily I live in an area where I get cheap one day, or even same day, shipping with them.


----------



## socalmvp

Would 1 thick 360 rad be enough to cool a i7700k with a overclock of 4.8 at 1.25V and a gtx1080 at stock? For simplicity I would like to go with 1 rad and keep the runs short. The rad would be bringing in cool air from the front.

Thank you


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> By listening to Jay a slim alu 240 rad is well enough for cooling a CPU + 1080GTX! wow
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iqg6z-4DhxM


Gamingwise? Yes.

Much more than that? No.

He wasn't suggesting that everyone move to the Aluminium kit, he was talking purely on the entry level side of things over an AIO. For $250US, you would be hard pressed to find a CPU/GPU cooler combo that works better without increasing expense.

No offense meant, but I'm finding that comprehension is a dying art. I saw the vid, he didn't overstep his bounds as a custom looper.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gamingwise? Yes.
> 
> Much more than that? No.
> 
> He wasn't suggesting that everyone move to the Aluminium kit, he was talking purely on the entry level side of things over an AIO. For $250US, you would be hard pressed to find a CPU/GPU cooler combo that works better without increasing expense.
> 
> No offense meant, but I'm finding that comprehension is a dying art. I saw the vid, he didn't overstep his bounds as a custom looper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Agree completely. Internet loves to bash on jay and other famous youtubers but more often than not their info is pretty spot on as well as being entertaining.

Not starting a 'bash on so and so' thread rant.

As for the EK kit you're totally right though. He is pointing out the price point for entry level custom loops and this kit is really hard to beat for cpu AND gpu!


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socalmvp*
> 
> Would 1 thick 360 rad be enough to cool a i7700k with a overclock of 4.8 at 1.25V and a gtx1080 at stock? For simplicity I would like to go with 1 rad and keep the runs short. The rad would be bringing in cool air from the front.
> 
> Thank you


i have a 3770K 4.6Ghz/1.28v (76c-78c)and 980ti (1360/1.212 gaming ~1490/1.27 benching)(48c-54c) w/280mm rad and it does _just fine_ or _adequate_.

since you probably know that a single rad won't be silent, you may want to consider push/pull fans to get lower temps. does the front give you ~25mm (~fan thickness) of wiggle room?


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> As for the EK kit you're totally right though. He is pointing out the price point for entry level custom loops and this kit is really hard to beat for cpu AND gpu!


Time will tell, but I'm not certain its a good "entry point." It might be a good product for someone who wants something more than an AiO, but doesn't look to really expand it much. However, unlike the other kits from EK (and other companies), the aluminum one should NOT be expanded with any non-aluminum G1/4 threaded products (which means people have to be careful with what they order and that the available expansion options will be severely limited), so I'm not sure "entry point" is the right term...

In fact, it might have even been a good idea for EK to use something other than G1/4 threads to help block people from expanding with copper-based products. It would make the new product line physically incompatible with the existing lines (Maybe they do use a different thread already? If so, it would considerably raise my opinion of the product.)


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socalmvp*
> 
> Would 1 thick 360 rad be enough to cool a i7700k with a overclock of 4.8 at 1.25V and a gtx1080 at stock? For simplicity I would like to go with 1 rad and keep the runs short. The rad would be bringing in cool air from the front.


I'm currently using a thin 360 (GTS 360) radiator to cool a 7700k and 1070 GTX (both overclocked) and it's.... barely enough. When I load the system for temperature testing, I run linpack on the processor in the background with Valley in the foreground. The CPU power goes to about 120 watts, and my video card is rated for ~175 watts with the factory overclock. So, that's about 295 watts of heat, and my radiator fans (intake) spin up to 1300 RPM to keep the water temp within 11 degrees of ambient (air intake) temp. (I have a thermal probe in my loop as well as one directly in front of one of the intake fans.)

Using the thicker radiator, but a higher wattage video card, you might get similar or slightly better results.

(Of course, my test is an extreme designed to determine what the system can handle, not what I might realistically see in daily use.)


----------



## DarthBaggins

if an XSPC EX360 can cool my 5930k and 1080 OC'd a GTS360 should be more than ample to cool a 7700k & 1070.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> if an XSPC EX360 can cool my 5930k and 1080 OC'd a GTS360 should be more than ample to cool a 7700k & 1070.


As mentioned, with both the CPU heated up (with AVX instructions via linpack) and the GPU heated up (Valley at 1440p, maxed out settings), my water temps max at 11 degrees over ambient, with fans going up to ~1300 RPM. 11 degrees delta is a bit higher than ideal, and I could increase my fan noise (speeds) or even add another small radiator to "fix" it, but I don't have any real workload that's quite as hot as my stress testing, so I'm not concerned about it.

Being I'm 1 degree over the ideal max delta of 10, but with a non-realistic workload, I call the cooling on my system "barely enough."


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> As for the EK kit you're totally right though. He is pointing out the price point for entry level custom loops and this kit is really hard to beat for cpu AND gpu!
> 
> 
> 
> Time will tell, but I'm not certain its a good "entry point." It might be a good product for someone who wants something more than an AiO, but doesn't look to really expand it much. However, unlike the other kits from EK (and other companies), the aluminum one should NOT be expanded with any non-aluminum G1/4 threaded products (which means people have to be careful with what they order and that the available expansion options will be severely limited), so I'm not sure "entry point" is the right term...
> 
> In fact, it might have even been a good idea for EK to use something other than G1/4 threads to help block people from expanding with copper-based products. It would make the new product line physically incompatible with the existing lines (Maybe they do use a different thread already? If so, it would considerably raise my opinion of the product.)
Click to expand...

Dude, it says on the warning stickers not to use the Aluminium components with copper components.

If some duma...







*ahem*

...installs it for anything other than an experimental situation, then he/she deserves everything they get when they have to tear down their loop to throw it in the rubbish bin. It's clearly marked and reading is fundamental, ya know.









~Ceadder


----------



## socalmvp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i have a 3770K 4.6Ghz/1.28v (76c-78c)and 980ti (1360/1.212 gaming ~1490/1.27 benching)(48c-54c) w/280mm rad and it does _just fine_ or _adequate_.
> 
> since you probably know that a single rad won't be silent, you may want to consider push/pull fans to get lower temps. does the front give you ~25mm (~fan thickness) of wiggle room?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I'm currently using a thin 360 (GTS 360) radiator to cool a 7700k and 1070 GTX (both overclocked) and it's.... barely enough. When I load the system for temperature testing, I run linpack on the processor in the background with Valley in the foreground. The CPU power goes to about 120 watts, and my video card is rated for ~175 watts with the factory overclock. So, that's about 295 watts of heat, and my radiator fans (intake) spin up to 1300 RPM to keep the water temp within 11 degrees of ambient (air intake) temp. (I have a thermal probe in my loop as well as one directly in front of one of the intake fans.)
> 
> Using the thicker radiator, but a higher wattage video card, you might get similar or slightly better results.
> 
> (Of course, my test is an extreme designed to determine what the system can handle, not what I might realistically see in daily use.)


What do you guys try to keep your ambient temp at. In the summer, my computer room gets pretty hot. I try to keep it at 80F or less?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socalmvp*
> 
> What do you guys try to keep your ambient temp at. In the summer, my computer room gets pretty hot. I try to keep it at 80F or less?


I'd rather have a Sasquatch-sized carbon footprint than have to work in an >80F office... but I'd say whatever you're personally comfortable with really. Unless your cooling solution is totally inadequate - or your hardware is underpowered for what you want to do - you're more likely to overheat before your system will.

But in direct answer to your question, I keep my server room at 68 and my office at 76 pretty much all year round - though in the winter I let it get down closer to 70.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dude, it says on the warning stickers not to use the Aluminium components with copper components.
> 
> If some duma...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ahem*
> 
> ...installs it for anything other than an experimental situation, then he/she deserves everything they get when they have to tear down their loop to throw it in the rubbish bin. It's clearly marked and reading is fundamental, ya know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think what he was saying is that if you want to keep those components and add another radiator and more fittings, then it'll be hard to find those components; that is unless EK sells them outside of the kits.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I think what he was saying is that if you want to keep those components and add another radiator and more fittings, then it'll be hard to find those components; that is unless EK sells them outside of the kits.


I could see them supplying everything you need to add another rad in the box working well, eg the rad, 2 fittings, maybe even a fan. This way no confusion can be had and EK can to some extent what is used with their Alu series components.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If some duma...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ahem*
> 
> ...installs it for anything other than an experimental situation, then he/she deserves everything they get when they have to tear down their loop to throw it in the rubbish bin. It's clearly marked and reading is fundamental, ya know.


It is clearly marked with stickers. However, most other (non-aluminum) items aren't. Companies don't always advertise what material something is made out of, and non-aluminum parts rarely (if ever) have a warning sticker that they shouldn't be used with aluminum. Sure, it's not a mistake YOU or I would make, but I don't think either of us would purchase an aluminum based kit to begin with.

Take a look at the target audience: Someone who doesn't have water cooling experience and wants to get started with it, but do so on a budget. THAT's the person who might, a few months down the road, want to expand with another radiator or something. Perhaps they run over to a local Micro Center and buy an EK PE120 radiator and two EK compression fittings. Neither item contains anything on the package that clearly states it shouldn't be used with aluminum. The fittings are in little plastic bags with no information at all other than the size. The radiator is in a colorful box that, if I remember correctly, doesn't state that it's made from copper, brass, etc. So, the "target customer" has an EK kit at home and wants to expand it. They buy the only EK products that seem like they'd work.... and (if the aluminum stuff is using G1/4 threads) those items WILL "fit" with the aluminum kit just fine....

If, as I mentioned, the aluminum parts had a different (not G1/4) fitting size, it would be harder to mix parts from the aluminum kit with other parts.

I know the next argument from people who just want to argue will be that different fitting sizes won't matter. The fittings don't usually connect different parts together (the tubing does.) This is true, but at least having different fitting threads would help, and at definitely prevent people from *directly* attaching copper fittings into aluminum parts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I think what he was saying is that if you want to keep those components and add another radiator and more fittings, then it'll be hard to find those components; that is unless EK sells them outside of the kits.


That too.







Being the components aren't (yet?) sold outside the kits, people will buy what they do find... and all they'll find are products made for copper loops.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Can someone confirm that the ASUS 1080ti Poseidon card has an aluminum block or aluminum exposed in the water loop?


----------



## dwolvin

It's not really a block, more like a heatpipe running from barb to barb across the vapor chamber... But I can't see any reference as to what the material is.


----------



## AreTheGod

Just finished it! Will be posting more photos with details after the leak test. The fluid will be changed for some Mayhems Pastel Blue.
Had few issues tho, The first is the air bubbles on the tube from gpu -> cpu and the second one is the fact that the could seems to be darker in the reservoir (maybe this is due to the light or even to the fact that I'm using Alphacool Eis tube that are frosted?)


----------



## dwolvin

The 'thicker' water in the res will always make it look a different shade as long as it is partly translucent, I could be wrong but I think the pastel will cure that&#8230;

But- Nice!


----------



## rolldog

Ok, after being on vacation for 2 weeks, I'm finally back and have been acquiring parts here and there for my new build. I've decided to use borosilicate glass tubing instead of acrylic, but one thing I've noticed is that it comes in 3 different sizes, 16mm, 13mm, and 12mm. I've seen many hard line compression fittings, which come in many sizes, especially when looking at metric & imperial.

Anyone know if the 12mm (a little less than half an inch) and the 13mm (a little more than a half an inch) OD tubing would work with imperial size hardline fittings, like XSBC, Primochill, Monsoon, etc or do I need to match up metric tubing with metric fittings and imperial tubing with imperial fittings?

Lastly, I really like the options available for the Monsoon MMRS reservoirs, but I really want a glass reservoir. Anyone have any idea if a 150mm glass reservoir tube can be used in place of the acrylic 150mm reservoir tube?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Only glass tube res I know of is the Aqualis from AquaComputer, I love mine


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Only glass tube res I know of is the Aqualis from AquaComputer, I love mine


EK Makes one now:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x4-250-r2

It's a 250, though. Also not so cheap.

Going glass myself once I gather everything I want. Let us know how it goes! I'm gathering as much info as I can before plunging and getting the tubes and fittings. Hoping I can accomplish most of it with 90 degree pre-bent tubes and minimal fittings. Probably going for the 13mm and from what I've gathered, alphacool's HT fittings are the best in terms of install and tightness. Some other brands are too tight to get on which could lead to cracking and breaking the tube while others are a bit too loose for my paranoia. (just tried finding the link that did pressure tests on many of them, will find and edit post later)


----------



## Mega Man

XSPC Photon is one as well
as is Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube


----------



## madmeatballs

Barrow also has a glass reservoir. (65mm)


----------



## kroaton

What do you think (apart from the kink)?
I've added EK waterblock 1080 gtx and a radiator deepcool ST30 xflow 120mm Temps seem ok. Best gain is noise reduction, the 1080 was like a jet in the case!!!! Ambient temp is 32c and the test was done with the window on


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Only glass tube res I know of is the Aqualis from AquaComputer, I love mine


Our Heatkiller® Tube series of reservoirs is based on a borosilicate tube with 65mm outer diameter. It comes in 100, 150 and 200mm length, there are versions for D5 or DDC integration, the aluminum struts come in four different colors, there are two different tops, and six different mounting solutions


----------



## Dortheleus

Anyone know of someone that modded a monitor into a case with the PC?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> EK Makes one now:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x4-250-r2
> 
> It's a 250, though. Also not so cheap.
> 
> Going glass myself once I gather everything I want. Let us know how it goes! I'm gathering as much info as I can before plunging and getting the tubes and fittings. Hoping I can accomplish most of it with 90 degree pre-bent tubes and minimal fittings. Probably going for the 13mm and from what I've gathered, alphacool's HT fittings are the best in terms of install and tightness. Some other brands are too tight to get on which could lead to cracking and breaking the tube while others are a bit too loose for my paranoia. (just tried finding the link that did pressure tests on many of them, will find and edit post later)


This review of the Mayhems Borosilicate Glass tubing is pretty good, since they pressure test different fittings on their different size tubing, but it's a couple years old. It at least shows which fittings, at the time, hold better than others, but I figured there might be a few more fittings available since this was written. Even though the review is for Mayhems tubing, I figured this should be the case with any glass tubing.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> XSPC Photon is one as well
> as is Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube


Yes, I actually went ahead and ordered the Heatkiller reservoir last night. Since the reservoir is glass and it comes with so many accessories, I figured I couldn't go wrong with it..


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> EK Makes one now:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x4-250-r2
> 
> It's a 250, though. Also not so cheap.
> 
> Going glass myself once I gather everything I want. Let us know how it goes! I'm gathering as much info as I can before plunging and getting the tubes and fittings. Hoping I can accomplish most of it with 90 degree pre-bent tubes and minimal fittings. Probably going for the 13mm and from what I've gathered, alphacool's HT fittings are the best in terms of install and tightness. Some other brands are too tight to get on which could lead to cracking and breaking the tube while others are a bit too loose for my paranoia. (just tried finding the link that did pressure tests on many of them, will find and edit post later)


I have that one in my current build. Although I have the first release version. Still looks really good feels really solid. It is really big, tho. you need a big ass case to be able to mount it properly.
The extra ports makes it really easy to connect a temp sensor, led fitting and pressure release fitting.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Anyone know of someone that modded a monitor into a case with the PC?


several latest i can think of is bneg in the s3, i dont remember which name the build was though


----------



## emsj86

glass tube res you say?


----------



## Mega Man

no, glass rectangle res !


----------



## dallas1990

yea i picked up a frozenq novacore extreme. at first it was great but my god is it made cheap.going to get the heatkiller like i should of. the novacore looks great and cool as heck. but after mounting it and putting fluid in it to remove the air. the fins are loose.


----------



## KCDC

My first build, I got a frozenQ helix, or whatever they're called with the double helix going through it. Factory defect, had a leak at the bottom cap around the top rim, it was deformed along the edge letting water drip out. And on top of that, you couldn't unscrew the ends to clean it well. Never looked at their products after that. It was cheaply made for what I spent on it.

Imagine feeling proud doing your first loop flawlessly only to find that one of your components has a defect. At least it wasn't my fault!


----------



## dallas1990

yea, im feeling the same way. theres no leaks just it feels like i went to toysR'us and bought it. oh well, as upset as i am about it. i'll find another use for it. maybe use it for color testing lol


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Our Heatkiller® Tube series of reservoirs is based on a borosilicate tube with 65mm outer diameter. It comes in 100, 150 and 200mm length, there are versions for D5 or DDC integration, the aluminum struts come in four different colors, there are two different tops, and six different mounting solutions


I really dig those reservoirs. Can you tell me, will an ek D5 g2 pump with your D5 pump top work with them? I'm guessing not but worth asking.


----------



## Mega Man

Any d5 will work with any d5 pump top, both ddc and d5s are xylem pumps and not ek, a.c. ect. That said there are differences, the ac usb one for example....

The people we buy them from (ek, a.c., etc) are just resellers


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Any d5 will work with any d5 pump top, both ddc and d5s are xylem pumps and not ek, a.c. ect. That said there are differences, the ac usb one for example....
> 
> The people we buy them from (ek, a.c., etc) are just resellers


Yeah I know that. For some reason I was thinking of turning my D5 and that res into a combo unit vs having them seperate.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I really dig those reservoirs. Can you tell me, will an ek D5 g2 pump with your D5 pump top work with them? I'm guessing not but worth asking.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Any d5 will work with any d5 pump top, both ddc and d5s are xylem pumps and not ek, a.c. ect. That said there are differences, the ac usb one for example....
> 
> The people we buy them from (ek, a.c., etc) are just resellers


What he said







All D5 pumps that we are aware of are fully compatible with our Heatkiller Tube/D5 reservoirs. The Alphacool VPP755 is sort of a special case, since they tried to stick to the measurements of a D5, but didn't quite nail it. All reviews we know state that those pumps are compatible to our pump tops and reservoirs, but we can not guarantee it.


----------



## Mega Man

And you should not use it, ever that pump sucks


----------



## looniam

aren't pumps suppose to suck?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And you should not use it, ever that pump sucks


We are aware of that thread. I do not want to comment on competitors products, but we do offer our own line of pumps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> aren't pumps suppose to suck?


Actually no! All pumps usually used in PC watercooling do only push and can not suck! One of the great misunderstandings in watercooling forums around the globe


----------



## Mega Man

I understand, and can respect that, and that is why I commented

Technically, there is no push or pull in a loop, there is pump. If we were pumping from point a to point b that would be different


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> What do you think (apart from the kink)?
> I've added EK waterblock 1080 gtx and a radiator deepcool ST30 xflow 120mm Temps seem ok. Best gain is noise reduction, the 1080 was like a jet in the case!!!! Ambient temp is 32c and the test was done with the window on


Hey budd,

I would look into that kink between the gpu and 120 rad. Best to get that fixed up asap, put a 45 or 90 degree fitting on the gpu port


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say an extension and a 90 would give the best results


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We are aware of that thread. I do not want to comment on competitors products, but we do offer our own line of pumps.
> Actually no! All pumps usually used in PC watercooling do only push and can not suck! One of the great misunderstandings in watercooling forums around the globe


I guess the technical term is centrifugal pumps generally don't self prime
Some industrial centrifugal pumps self prime, but as always refer to manufacture specifications.

There was a debate a while back about this once a PC orientated pump is primed and running it will "suck" or lift fluid above the reservoir water line but won't if there is air allowed to enter the suction tube.
But in saying that good luck of turning the PC off and expecting it to self prime again.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> aren't pumps suppose to suck?


Oh lawdy no you dinnit. Now a certain OCD member will never sthu about your use of the word regarding pumps..







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Danman980

I second that comment about the kinked hose , that will be overloading your pump for sure. But I would just ditch all that soft tube anyway and go right to rigid tube anyway it looks better.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

To be fair he/she did qualify the request for feedback with "other than the kink"...

However, I'm also one that simply cannot bring myself to even look at your rig from an aesthetic standpoint because my OCD causes my eyes to zoom into that kink and stay there. However, it looks fine other than that. Can't say I'm a huge fan of the color choices - but my wife would probably love seeing that on her desk. As far as everything else (if that kink were gone that is) it looks clean and nice (inside the case at least).


----------



## Rayce185

Hey guys

A few years back I bought this bracket to mount the Corsair H55 onto a GPU. Unfortunately I need another one and can't find the member who sold it to me.

Does anyone know where to get these or something comparable?

Thanks in advance!



Please don't mind the dust. The Rig has been open for a few days...


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> A few years back I bought this bracket to mount the Corsair H55 onto a GPU. Unfortunately I need another one and can't find the member who sold it to me.
> 
> Does anyone know where to get these or something comparable?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please don't mind the dust. The Rig has been open for a few days...


Would something like the NZXT Kraken G12 be what you're looking for?

https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g12-white


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We are aware of that thread. I do not want to comment on competitors products, but we do offer our own line of pumps.
> Actually no! All pumps usually used in PC watercooling do only push and can not suck! One of the great misunderstandings in watercooling forums around the globe


You are confusing priming with sucking.

Once primed ,these pumps do indeed suck,you cannot have a pumping action without it,but these pumps do not prime themselves. Suck yes,prime no. This is why you can have a half filled pump top and still no flow,once the air is purged you have centrifugal pumping action that includes sucking on the inlet as for every cc of pumped fluid there is a corresponding 'suck' on the inlet equal to the fluid displaced as water cannot be compressed. Most self priming pumps are of a piston/mechanical displacement type that have a vacuum action. Centrifugal pumps do not have this vacuum action in a gas medium required for self priming.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would say an extension and a 90 would give the best results


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey budd,
> 
> I would look into that kink between the gpu and 120 rad. Best to get that fixed up asap, put a 45 or 90 degree fitting on the gpu port


Thanks guys, I was thinking about a 90 degree and 20mm extension. What if I use the system as is now for 2 weeks? Is there any danger? Would my Temps drop If I fix the kink?


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> Would something like the NZXT Kraken G12 be what you're looking for?
> 
> https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g12-white


Thanks! I didn't know something like that exists.
Unfortunately there are hardly any available here, but I was able to find a retailer selling the G10 which works just as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> aren't pumps suppose to suck?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would say an extension and a 90 would give the best results
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey budd,
> 
> I would look into that kink between the gpu and 120 rad. Best to get that fixed up asap, put a 45 or 90 degree fitting on the gpu port
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks guys, I was thinking about a 90 degree and 20mm extension. What if I use the system as is now for 2 weeks? Is there any danger? Would my Temps drop If I fix the kink?
Click to expand...

You should be fine, your pump will just have back pressure . There are ways to unkink the hose if you want. Worm drive pipe clamp, or I use a clamp to train my hoses.

Pumps either make high flow or high pressure. The lower the resistance the higher the flow, the higher the resistance the higher the pressure

Before anyone jumps down my throat with, "your wrong" i am giving a basic, simplified version of what happens


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> aren't pumps suppose to suck?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh lawdy no you dinnit. Now a certain OCD member will never sthu about your use of the word regarding pumps..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...










i know, i forgot centrifugal vs reciprocating until after i hit submit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh lawdy no you dinnit. Now a certain OCD member will never sthu about your use of the word regarding pumps..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Are you referring to me? Because if you have a problem with using correct terminology,surely the fault lies with you?


----------



## HITTI

Before:


And after:



Modified this
- EK-XRES Revo D5 series
- EK-XTOP Revo D5 series
- EK-XTOP DDC series

Pump to 120mm fan bracket for my DCP 2.2 pump.


Added in the stock second 3 x hdd bay.

Added in a 90 degree EK to a 45 degree EK fitting, EK T block and a black g1/4 compression fitting.

=================================

This is how I lined up the 4mm holes, original dcp 2.2 bracket cclamped to the ddc pump bracket and drilled the holes.

Little off as the fourth hole I drilled slipped into a stock hole of the 120mm fan bracket.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh lawdy no you dinnit. Now a certain OCD member will never sthu about your use of the word regarding pumps..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you referring to me? Because if you have a problem with using correct terminology,surely the fault lies with you?
Click to expand...

Couldn't be the furthest thing from my mind where you're concerned B. I got mad raspeck for you as you well know. And you did jump to my defense in the matter. I may not have been specific enough, but pumps do suck after they've been primed.

My recent post was about the analysis retentive way that was handled by a specific individual. I won't mention names but those who took part in the conversation know the specifics involved so I won't dig up the dead horse to beat on it again.









~Ceadder


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

No one ever abuses horses like that in this thread!


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## Emissary of Pain

So the project has started ... busy planning everything out ... (sorry for the potato picture)



I noticed that HWL says that there are different "in" & "out" ports depending on fan placement, does this really make such a huge difference ?


----------



## Danman980

I guess they mean that the ports might be too close to the case sides depending on where you put your fans.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danman980*
> 
> I guess they mean that the ports might be too close to the case sides depending on where you put your fans.


It seems to do more with push vs pull orientation


----------



## Danman980

Oh ok then, I'd just follow their instructions then. The only reason I can think that would be would be for the routing of the water channels inside I guess. I thought air flow direction didn't matter.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> It seems to do more with push vs pull orientation


Airflow directionality only really matters for watertubes in the rad being stacked across the width for the inlet,most rads are tube stacked across one half of the width in accordance to the port. As far as im aware,AQC AMS rads are the only ones that stack across the rad,VSG did a rad roundup,he can tell you more on specific tube layouts for each rad.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Danman980*
> 
> I guess they mean that the ports might be too close to the case sides depending on where you put your fans.
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to do more with push vs pull orientation
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danman980*
> 
> Oh ok then, I'd just follow their instructions then. The only reason I can think that would be would be for the routing of the water channels inside I guess. I thought air flow direction didn't matter.


It's not about push or pull . . .

While most rads have coolant make 2 passes, divided as 2 sides, left and right when looking at the fins with the rad held vertically, those HWL divide the passes front and back from the same perspective.

That's the reason they can't actually make them with multi-ports.

The concept is that with the air flow direction optimized to the liquid flow direction, the coolant in the tubes is always seeing a gradient to the air flow.


----------



## Danman980

Thanks Darlene mystery solved


----------



## Shumejko

My RIG:
Intel® Core™ i7-4790K
Asus Maximus VI HERO
Crucial DDR3-1866 2x8192MB PC3-14900 BallistiX Elite
Samsung 840 Pro 128GB
Samsung 850 Evo 500GB
EVGA GTX 980 Ti CLASSIFIED
SeaSonic X-850 KM3
Fractal Design Arc midi R2


Spoiler: other photos HERE!


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shumejko*
> 
> 
> My RIG:
> Intel® Core™ i7-4790K
> Asus Maximus VI HERO
> Crucial DDR3-1866 2x8192MB PC3-14900 BallistiX Elite
> Samsung 840 Pro 128GB
> Samsung 850 Evo 500GB
> EVGA GTX 980 Ti CLASSIFIED
> SeaSonic X-850 KM3
> Fractal Design Arc midi R2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: other photos HERE!


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> What do you think (apart from the kink)?
> I've added EK waterblock 1080 gtx and a radiator deepcool ST30 xflow 120mm Temps seem ok. Best gain is noise reduction, the 1080 was like a jet in the case!!!! Ambient temp is 32c and the test was done with the window on


I think I am having temp issues with this loop, in 4k gaming the 1080gtx touches a peak of 53c while the cpu goes up to 77c (both overclocked).
I don't know if I should replace my st30 120mm with a xt45 120mm or if I better change the pump.
This is my pump (450lt/h)

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-spc-60-pwm-acetal-incl-pump

I was thinking to change it with this one which doubles the flow per hour:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump

Or maybe also this one which has same performance but half price.

https://m.it.aliexpress.com/s/item/32759769550.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32759769550&productSubject=Barrow-12V-17w-Water-pump-sets-water-cooling-pump-cooling-system-water-pump-computer-speed-SPB17&isOrigTitle=true&aff_platform=aaf&cpt=1497889274852&sk=Y7bAZbY&aff_trace_key=fb9290994c8044ee8d7048e0bd1d5af5-1497889274852-04956-Y7bAZbY#autostay

What do you guys think/suggest?


----------



## emsj86

That's a hall not bad. Little rad space for two overclocked components. I hit sometimes upper 40s with 360 and 480 rads. Changing rads wont give you
The temp difference you want. The pump won't either. Might need more rad space but you
Are dealing with a small case with overclocked cpu and gpu on Not a ton of rad space with a hot room


----------



## rolldog

I finally have more parts on the way, and I'm trying to figure out which fittings will work with my tubing. I've ordered the Alphacool HardTube 16/11mm Borosilicate Glass Tubing (16mm=5/8"). I've found a few 16mm hard line compression fittings, but if I expand my selection to 5/8" OD fitting, the selection is much greater.

On Alphacool's website, they mentioned in the description of the tubing that Monsoon fittings will not work. I'm wondering if this is accurate or if they just want to up sell me on buying their fittings. Also, I've built cooling systems using acrylic but not borosilicate glass. Again, this might fall back to the earlier question, but will any hard line fitting with a 16mm OD work or does this glass tubing need specific fittings?

I hope someone can provide a little insight for me since I need to order my fittings, but I don't want to get them all in and find out they won't work. Thanks!


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's a hall not bad. Little rad space for two overclocked components. I hit sometimes upper 40s with 360 and 480 rads. Changing rads wont give you
> The temp difference you want. The pump won't either. Might need more rad space but you
> Are dealing with a small case with overclocked cpu and gpu on Not a ton of rad space with a hot room


I posted Celsius Temps, do you refer to F Temps? Why do you think neither a thicker rad neither a better pump would provide benefits?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Airflow directionality only really matters for watertubes in the rad being stacked across the width for the inlet,most rads are tube stacked across one half of the width in accordance to the port.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> As far as im aware,AQC AMS rads are the only ones that stack across the rad,VSG did a rad roundup,he can tell you more on specific tube layouts for each rad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's not about push or pull . . .
> 
> While most rads have coolant make 2 passes, divided as 2 sides, left and right when looking at the fins with the rad held vertically, those HWL divide the passes front and back from the same perspective.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That's the reason they can't actually make them with multi-ports.
> 
> The concept is that with the air flow direction optimized to the liquid flow direction, the coolant in the tubes is always seeing a gradient to the air flow.


Thanks again for the answers, I feel bad asking such basic questions and really appreciate the help









Also, where the heck do you guys learn all this stuff ... hahahaha ...

*::: EDIT :::*

Curious how you guys would run your loop in this case, green being the approx fill/drain ports ... (please ignore the 2min PS mock up)


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> It seems to do more with push vs pull orientation


I have the same rads and had accidentally used the wrong direction with my tubing on both of mine during my last system clean. My temps weren't bad. With both cards and cpu under water with a monoblock, I would idle in the mid 20s to 30s depending on ambient, which would fluctuate around the same. During gaming, I would see temps in the 50s to 60s depending on load. Never past 65. I just did a teardown over the weekend and I plan to route my tubing the correct way this time, so I can report back if there is a huge difference. I've been wanting to know myself anyway, so I guess I accidentally started an experiment. Oh, and my fans are set to stay around 700-800 rpm up to 55 degrees, then a ramp up to 100% if above 70. They probably stay around 1000-1200 rpm while gaming.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> I think I am having temp issues with this loop, in 4k gaming the 1080gtx touches a peak of 53c while the cpu goes up to 77c (both overclocked).
> I don't know if I should replace my st30 120mm with a xt45 120mm or if I better change the pump.
> This is my pump (450lt/h)
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-spc-60-pwm-acetal-incl-pump
> 
> I was thinking to change it with this one which doubles the flow per hour:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> Or maybe also this one which has same performance but half price.
> 
> https://m.it.aliexpress.com/s/item/32759769550.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32759769550&productSubject=Barrow-12V-17w-Water-pump-sets-water-cooling-pump-cooling-system-water-pump-computer-speed-SPB17&isOrigTitle=true&aff_platform=aaf&cpt=1497889274852&sk=Y7bAZbY&aff_trace_key=fb9290994c8044ee8d7048e0bd1d5af5-1497889274852-04956-Y7bAZbY#autostay
> 
> What do you guys think/suggest?


That giant kink in your tube from rad to gpu probably isn't helping you much. I'd start there and straighten that out. You're restricting flow considerably at that point.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> I have the same rads and had accidentally used the wrong direction with my tubing on both of mine during my last system clean. My temps weren't bad. With both cards and cpu under water with a monoblock, I would idle in the mid 20s to 30s depending on ambient, which would fluctuate around the same. During gaming, I would see temps in the 50s to 60s depending on load. Never past 65. I just did a teardown over the weekend and I plan to route my tubing the correct way this time, so I can report back if there is a huge difference. I've been wanting to know myself anyway, so I guess I accidentally started an experiment. Oh, and my fans are set to stay around 700-800 rpm up to 55 degrees, then a ramp up to 100% if above 70. They probably stay around 1000-1200 rpm while gaming.


Thanks for the input and the accidental experiment, I am interested in your results ...

I am using BeQuiet fans which at 2200rpm (free hanging) I can barely hear, I will test on the rad tomorrow, I expect I will be running 1000rpm flat and 100% if over 70C ...

I am just frustrated because the "in out" thing has me running weird tubing routes


----------



## KCDC

All the reviews on these specific rads state that they really do their best with higher RPMs. They're mediocre anywhere below 1500. When I'm rendering or encoding, it gets pretty loud, these ML fans aren't as quiet as I expected above 1500. Would you mind telling me which BeQuiet fans you're using? I wouldn't mind swapping these out for something better.

http://thermalbench.com/2016/11/22/hardware-labs-black-ice-nemesis-gtr-480-radiator/6/

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/HardwareLabs/Black_Ice_Nemesis_GTR_360/5.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> All the reviews on these specific rads state that they really do their best with higher RPMs. They're mediocre anywhere below 1500. When I'm rendering or encoding, it gets pretty loud, these ML fans aren't as quiet as I expected above 1500. Would you mind telling me which BeQuiet fans you're using? I wouldn't mind swapping these out for something better.
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/11/22/hardware-labs-black-ice-nemesis-gtr-480-radiator/6/
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/HardwareLabs/Black_Ice_Nemesis_GTR_360/5.html


I use Silent Wing 3's, Great fan but awkward mounting solution.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> All the reviews on these specific rads state that they really do their best with higher RPMs. They're mediocre anywhere below 1500. When I'm rendering or encoding, it gets pretty loud, these ML fans aren't as quiet as I expected above 1500. Would you mind telling me which BeQuiet fans you're using? I wouldn't mind swapping these out for something better.
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/11/22/hardware-labs-black-ice-nemesis-gtr-480-radiator/6/
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/HardwareLabs/Black_Ice_Nemesis_GTR_360/5.html


I will give them a proper test tomorrow since they are against the rad now, but from initial tests, they are the quietest fans I have ever used and they move a ton of air.

BeQuiet Silent Wings 3, 120mm 2200rpm PWM
Fan speed @ 12V (rpm): 2,200
Air flow @ 12V (cfm, m3/h): 73.33 / 124.58
Air pressure @ 12V (mm H2O): 3.37
Noise level @ 12V (dB(A)): 28.6

http://www.bequiet.com/en/casefans/724

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use Silent Wing 3's, Great fan but awkward mounting solution.


No jokes on that mounting system ... I also wasn't super happy but once mounted they are super snug


----------



## KCDC

Dang, and I thought Noctua's were pricey.

I need 8 if I want to replace all of them. I guess its between that silent wings 3 at 140mm and pwm or noctua's nf-a14 pwm which is slightly cheaper.

And yes, what is up with that mounting solution? Some sort of gimmicky way to reduce noise? Seems like they're trying to "float" the fan enclosure for less surface contact or something.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Dang, and I thought Noctua's were pricey.
> 
> I need 8 if I want to replace all of them. I guess its between that silent wings 3 at 140mm and pwm or noctua's nf-a14 pwm which is slightly cheaper.


Are you sure you're looking at the right stores? Over here the SW3's are slightly cheaper than the A14's, the same price at most.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Dang, and I thought Noctua's were pricey.
> 
> I need 8 if I want to replace all of them. I guess its between that silent wings 3 at 140mm and pwm or noctua's nf-a14 pwm which is slightly cheaper.
> 
> And yes, what is up with that mounting solution? Some sort of gimmicky way to reduce noise? Seems like they're trying to "float" the fan enclosure for less surface contact or something.


You get 2 corner solutions,one for spacing off,eg exhaust fans,and one for close fit. You do need to box them for best performance as the frame is just a ring with the plug in mounts.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Are you sure you're looking at the right stores? Over here the SW3's are slightly cheaper than the A14's, the same price at most.


just amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Technology-NF-A14-PWM/dp/B00CP6QLY6

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BL071-SILENTWINGS-1600RPM-77-57CFM/dp/B01JME13SW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497903540&sr=1-1&keywords=SILENT+WINGS+3+%7C+140mm+PWM+HIGH-SPEED

Also looks like the Noctua is a few dB quieter than the SW3, not sure if thats due to the 100 rpm difference between the two. Noctua @1500 rpm is 24.6 dB the SW3 is 28 @ 1600. Really doubt I'd hear the 4 db difference, but just thought I'd share.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Also looks like the Noctua is a few dB quieter than the SW3, not sure if thats due to the 100 rpm difference between the two. Noctua @1500 rpm is 24.6 dB the SW3 is 28 @ 1600. Really doubt I'd hear the 4 db difference, but just thought I'd share.


Hmmm, the pricing on the non-PWM SW3's seems to be correct on Newegg, the PWM versions are insanely overpriced though. Probably some kind of supply issue.

The dBA listed by the manufactures is pretty meaningless, so are the airflow(cfm) and static pressure ratings. They all use different equipment and test in different ways, so they aren't comparable, unless someone starts doing standardized testing for these things they're just marketing fluff.

Look at proper reviews if you want an idea of how they compare in the real world.


http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/22/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-140-mm-fan/

As you can see, the A14's are actually slightly louder when pushing the same amount of air.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Hmmm, the pricing on the non-PWM SW3's seems to be correct on Newegg, the PWM versions are insanely overpriced though. Probably some kind of supply issue.
> 
> The dBA listed by the manufactures is pretty meaningless, so are the airflow(cfm) and static pressure ratings. They all use different equipment and test in different ways, so they aren't comparable, unless someone starts doing standardized testing for these things they're just marketing fluff.
> 
> Look at proper reviews if you want an idea of how they compare in the real world.
> 
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/22/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-140-mm-fan/
> 
> As you can see, the A14's are actually slightly louder when pushing the same amount of air.


Yeah, I didn't go too deep with researching just yet, but I figure the factory specs would at least be a ball park to compare them and it seems that they're fairly close in dB, but since I want PWM, I went for the noctuas since I save 30 bucks getting 8 of them. Thanks for the proper review, though.


----------



## Pheozero

OK, so I've been away from my PC for the last two years. NBD, but me in my infinite wisdom, decided to not drain it before leaving. My room has been re-purposed, which means my PC was pretty much shipped to the corner of our basement with water at a standstill on the inside. I haven't had a chance to strip it down yet and see what the damage is, but does anyone have any advice on what to look out for? I have Nickel blocks from EK so I know to look out for flaking but what about the rads and fittings?


----------



## dwolvin

Just flush it with a weak vinegar solution if you can, and refill- unless you had something other than distilled. Straight coolant should be fine sitting unpumped. (IMHO-VMMV). Look at any clear sections to see with there has been buildup if you can, and if it looks good, jumper the power supply and run the pump to check flow.


----------



## kroaton

Which pump do you guys suggest from a mid tower case like mine? This is my pump (450lt/h)

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-spc-60-pwm-acetal-incl-pump

I was thinking to change it with this one which doubles the flow per hour:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump

Or maybe also this one which has same performance but half price. Anybody tried these barrow pumps?

https://m.it.aliexpress.com/s/item/32759769550.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32759769550&productSubject=Barrow-12V-17w-Water-pump-sets-water-cooling-pump-cooling-system-water-pump-computer-speed-SPB17&isOrigTitle=true&aff_platform=aaf&cpt=1497889274852&sk=Y7bAZbY&aff_trace_key=fb9290994c8044ee8d7048e0bd1d5af5-1497889274852-04956-Y7bAZbY#autostay


----------



## slax0r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> Which pump do you guys suggest from a mid tower case like mine? This is my pump (450lt/h)
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-spc-60-pwm-acetal-incl-pump
> 
> I was thinking to change it with this one which doubles the flow per hour:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> Or maybe also this one which has same performance but half price. Anybody tried these barrow pumps?
> 
> https://m.it.aliexpress.com/s/item/32759769550.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32759769550&productSubject=Barrow-12V-17w-Water-pump-sets-water-cooling-pump-cooling-system-water-pump-computer-speed-SPB17&isOrigTitle=true&aff_platform=aaf&cpt=1497889274852&sk=Y7bAZbY&aff_trace_key=fb9290994c8044ee8d7048e0bd1d5af5-1497889274852-04956-Y7bAZbY#autostay


As it was already said, changing out the pump will not improve your temps by a lot. The thicker rad will improve them, but only a little bit, as it does increase the rad space. Before you go pump shopping and rad shopping, fix that kink with a 90 degree angled adapter, or a double 45 angled adapter. That kink is restricting your flow.
Furthermore, I would also re-seat both blocks, and make sure there is no error there, and really screw them on good. 53C is a good temp for the GPU.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> That giant kink in your tube from rad to gpu probably isn't helping you much. I'd start there and straighten that out. You're restricting flow considerably at that point.










that would be the sensible solution But I love it lets get a bigger pump to pump that kink out


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slax0r*
> 
> As it was already said, changing out the pump will not improve your temps by a lot. The thicker rad will improve them, but only a little bit, as it does increase the rad space. Before you go pump shopping and rad shopping, fix that kink with a 90 degree angled adapter, or a double 45 angled adapter. That kink is restricting your flow.
> Furthermore, I would also re-seat both blocks, and make sure there is no error there, and really screw them on good. 53C is a good temp for the GPU.


the kink is bad but I've temporary fixed it with a simple cable tie while waiting for the 90° fitting to arrive, no noticeable change in the temps. In other forums everybody tells me that the pump is totally inadequate for my loop of 2 rads and 2 wbs, that's why i was thinking to switch to a more performing one.
The GPU waterblock is fine, i mounted it just few days ago, the CPU one was mounted a month ago and seems to be fine (in idle the temps are fine, just 6-7 c° higher than room temperature. I could change the 120 rad from 30mm thickness to 45, not sure if this will fix the temps or not


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> the kink is bad but I've temporary fixed it with a simple cable tie while waiting for the 90° fitting to arrive, no noticeable change in the temps. In other forums everybody tells me that the pump is totally inadequate for my loop of 2 rads and 2 wbs, that's why i was thinking to switch to a more performing one.
> The GPU waterblock is fine, i mounted it just few days ago, the CPU one was mounted a month ago and seems to be fine (in idle the temps are fine, just 6-7 c° higher than room temperature. I could change the 120 rad from 30mm thickness to 45, not sure if this will fix the temps or not


Sorry for the smart reply I read the pictures

Looking into it I would change out the pump 6w is probably a bit small
Honestly could you wait a month for aliepress I know I couldn't wait.
I have the Barrow reservoir IMHO I am very pleased with it and would hesitate to recommend Barrow apart from a pump it is a little unknown quality wise.... but we need someone to be the test pilot.
You can never go wrong with the proven D5


----------



## Danman980

I second the D5 pump comment. Had mine for years. I only need to run it at half speed to get good temps from 2 980's and a 5930k with a mild overclock. I use 1 420mmx30mm rad and 1 140mmx30mm rad. D5 does it easy.


----------



## kroaton

thanks, thing is D5 pump is not compatible with the staff i have plus has different dimensions. I was going for one of those 2 pumps since they have almost identical dimensions as the one i have now . In a small case like mine each millimiter counts! Anyway i think DDC pump capable of 1000 Liters per hour will be more than enough, a D5 pump of 1500 liters per hour is a bit too much for my loop


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> thanks, thing is D5 pump is not compatible with the staff i have plus has different dimensions. I was going for one of those 2 pumps since they have almost identical dimensions as the one i have now . In a small case like mine each millimiter counts! Anyway i think DDC pump capable of 1000 Liters per hour will be more than enough, a D5 pump of 1500 liters per hour is a bit too much for my loop


then your choice is already made by your requirements-proven reliability/ pumping power/space
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump

I would look at putting some extra fans in for push/pull on you radiators


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> thanks, thing is D5 pump is not compatible with the staff i have plus has different dimensions. I was going for one of those 2 pumps since they have almost identical dimensions as the one i have now . In a small case like mine each millimiter counts! Anyway i think DDC pump capable of 1000 Liters per hour will be more than enough, a D5 pump of *1500 liters per hour* is a bit too much for my loop


Just turn the pump (s) speed down . Get the good one cause when you upgrade your PC specs next time you've got it sorted









For me practicality and function over aesthetics every time


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Just turn the pump (s) speed down . Get the good one cause when you upgrade your PC specs next time you've got it sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me practicality and function over aesthetics every time


Maybe we could try to Over Clock that pump


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Maybe we could try to Over Clock that pump


That's gonna confuse peeps now isn't it ??


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Just turn the pump (s) speed down . Get the good one cause when you upgrade your PC specs next time you've got it sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me practicality and function over aesthetics every time
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe we could try to Over Clock that pump
Click to expand...

I would suggest that you add a water block to the pump before starting your OC.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> That's gonna confuse peeps now isn't it ??


Not as long as they don't overclock the waterblock at the same time.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> then your choice is already made by your requirements-proven reliability/ pumping power/space
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> I would look at putting some extra fans in for push/pull on you radiators


yes that's the pump i was going for.....at least until i saw the barrow one (SPB17) which has same performances (so double than my current one), almost same size but it's half price !!!!!!!!
how come nobody has heard or tried that? I would pay it 50€ instead of 110€ of the EK one, it's a big difference and i heard lots of good things about this brand (at least for fittings, reservoirs and tubes)


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Just turn the pump (s) speed down . Get the good one cause when you upgrade your PC specs next time you've got it sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me practicality and function over aesthetics every time
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe we could try to Over Clock that pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would suggest that you add a water block to the pump before starting your OC.
Click to expand...

naw, just put a heatsink/fan on it, the benefits of WCing are highly exaggerated.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> yes that's the pump i was going for.....at least until i saw the barrow one (SPB17) which has same performances (so double than my current one), almost same size but it's half price !!!!!!!!
> how come nobody has heard or tried that? I would pay it 50€ instead of 110€ of the EK one, it's a big difference and i heard lots of good things about this brand (at least for fittings, reservoirs and tubes)


That's the problem they are a relatively new company so far they have made some really great products.
that's where time will only tell if the pumps are on par as well.

But on another note actually I don't think your temps are actually too bad 56°C on GPU I tell tell you the honest truth even if you managed to hold 42°C with the GTX 1080Ti in my experience that will probably net you about another 12.5Mhz possibly a very tight squeeze to 30Mhz more.
77°C on CPU is also reasonable and would almost guarantee that you will not net any clock speed.

and what are you comparing your temps to a set up of how many 120mm fan radiator space you have what a total of x3 120mm fan radiator space
I think you are at the point where you will need to add at least a another 360mm radiator to make a remarkable difference which isn't going to happen unless you mount externally.

if I were you I would be probably be happy with what you have.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> That's the problem they are a relatively new company so far they have made some really great products.
> that's where time will only tell if the pumps are on par as well.
> 
> But on another note actually I don't think your temps are actually too bad 56°C on GPU I tell tell you the honest truth even if you managed to hold 42°C with the GTX 1080Ti in my experience that will probably net you about another 12.5Mhz possibly a very tight squeeze to 30Mhz more.
> 77°C on CPU is also reasonable and would almost guarantee that you will not net any clock speed.
> 
> and what are you comparing your temps to a set up of how many 120mm fan radiator space you have what a total of x3 120mm fan radiator space
> I think you are at the point where you will need to add at least a another 360mm radiator to make a remarkable difference which isn't going to happen unless you mount externally.
> 
> if I were you I would be probably be happy with what you have.


thanks, in some other forums they tell me that i could do better with that case, but i honestly don't see any additional space for bigger or thicker rads.
My case only has the following possibilities:

Front: 1x240 rad or 1x280 rad
Back: 1x120 rad
Top: 1x120 fan only

so theoritecally the only things i could do to improve my temps are:

1)replace the front SE240 rad with a CE280 or similiar
2)replace the back ST30 120mm rad with a xt45 120mm or similiar
3)replace the 450 lt/h pump with a 1000 lt/h one


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> *thanks, in some other forums they tell me that i could do better with that case*, but i honestly don't see any additional space for bigger or thicker rads.
> My case only has the following possibilities:
> 
> Front: 1x240 rad or 1x280 rad
> Back: 1x120 rad
> Top: 1x120 fan only
> 
> so theoritecally the only things i could do to improve my temps are:
> 
> 1)replace the front SE240 rad with a CE280 or similiar
> 2)replace the back ST30 120mm rad with a xt45 120mm or similiar
> 3)replace the 450 lt/h pump with a 1000 lt/h one


^^
I think all of the above suggestions would be pretty minimal in gains and I would rather throw my money at a Vega or GTX 1080Ti then you are talking REAL gains

Probably all I would do is push / pull fans in the cooling department.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Maybe we could try to Over Clock that pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I would suggest that you add a water block to the pump before starting your OC.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Not as long as they don't overclock the waterblock at the same time.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> That's gonna confuse peeps now isn't it ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

See look what you've done Feznz


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> the kink is bad but I've temporary fixed it with a simple cable tie while waiting for the 90° fitting to arrive, no noticeable change in the temps. In other forums everybody tells me that the pump is totally inadequate for my loop of 2 rads and 2 wbs, that's why i was thinking to switch to a more performing one.
> The GPU waterblock is fine, i mounted it just few days ago, the CPU one was mounted a month ago and seems to be fine (in idle the temps are fine, just 6-7 c° higher than room temperature. I could change the 120 rad from 30mm thickness to 45, not sure if this will fix the temps or not


You
Can go for a new pump and a thicker rad. But I will bet my pc you will be back saying nothing has changed or you dropped a degree. Better off getting a larger case for the price a pump and rad would cost. At least than you can get more surface area for more
Rads. But your temps are not bad. A little higher than some but than again those people have better airflow and more rad surface area. (Also a lot of people tend to lie about there temps) One thing you will learn and most people in this field/forums don't know what there talking about and use reviews that show minor
Differences in temps to say this is way better than this product. (Example alphacools d5 pump). Reminds me of the people who told me when I first got into pcs to re install Windows every time a game didn't work right (surprise surprise it never worked). I'm rambling. But you have decent temps for what you have and the fact you are in a hot ambient temp room. More rad space will help but a thicker rad and pump won't give you
What you are looking for


----------



## hiarc

For those that are interested, EK FTW3 blocks are up for pre-ordering (just grabbed mine). Akira will probably be posting a thread soon.


----------



## catbuster

Would ek or bitspower heatsink work with this ddc top/rez combo? Any pictures would help also.









https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3144&XTCsid=oi7ne55jvfbmj0ihlo35n10dm91v7its


----------



## Dasboogieman

Just wanted to share my recent Phanteks Primo Ultimate build
2x480mm, 1x360, 1x 240, 1x120mm, 2 D5 Pumps in series


----------



## rolldog

Does anyone have any suggestions for me? I'm trying to find a 150mm reservoir, or a 100mm, with a Borosilicate Glass Tube, either stainless or nickel plated top and bottom, and a pump enclosure and pump top to match. Actually, the pump top will probably need to be acrylic since I've never seen a metal pump top. They can either be standalone or they could mount together, it doesn't matter to me, and it can be either a D5 or DDC pump. The DDC pump would need a stainless or nickel plated heatsink on it, and I saw that Monsoon makes a D5 pump mod in chrome and I could piece together the rest using their reservoir and the chrome pole things around the rest, but the res it acrylic, not glass.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Picture the bad guy from Terminator 2 who's made out of liquid metal. That's the kind of theme I'm shooting for. Since he's so shiny, I think glass would look better than acrylic with chrome/nickel/aluminum (aluminum on the outside, not in the loop) or any type of metal. I already have my nickel/Plexi GPU waterblock, Borosilicate Glass tubing, metal radiators, but I can't find a reservoir and pump mod top, or a combo, similar to what I'm looking for, but If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them.

Thanks!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Just wanted to share my recent Phanteks Primo Ultimate build
> 2x480mm, 1x360, 1x 240, 1x120mm, 2 D5 Pumps in series
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm sure it works fine although it's a little confusing to me in some areas. I don't want to offend, but it makes my head hurt a little bit.

Are all your fans on pull (with the exception of the sandwiched 360mm of course)? Since I don't see any fans at all on the top 480 I'm assuming those are pull as well. And are there fans on the 240 at all? Maybe push on backside?

In all likelihood, if you put all those pull fans on the opposite sides and made them push... you could probably get rid of the 240 and the 120 and actually get better cooling performance (or at least the same). I can't see the 120 so I don't know on it... but a 120 shouldn't be making a difference with all that rad surface elsewhere.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think you're actually losing performance with that loop (flow rate must be abysmal), I would clean up those tubing runs as much as you can and probably just stick with a single 480 (more than enough for what you're running)


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I'm sure it works fine although it's a little confusing to me in some areas. I don't want to offend, but it makes my head hurt a little bit.
> 
> Are all your fans on pull (with the exception of the sandwiched 360mm of course)? Since I don't see any fans at all on the top 480 I'm assuming those are pull as well. And are there fans on the 240 at all? Maybe push on backside?
> 
> In all likelihood, if you put all those pull fans on the opposite sides and made them push... you could probably get rid of the 240 and the 120 and actually get better cooling performance (or at least the same). I can't see the 120 so I don't know on it... but a 120 shouldn't be making a difference with all that rad surface elsewhere.


It took me about 6hrs to figure out how to put it all together too. Oh yeah on top + sides, there are small enclaves built in to the case so I can put fans there without encroaching on the internal space. All the rads have at least 1 fan, the 120mm is on the front panel where the HDD cage used to be, I figured pull is not efficient but given the massive surface area, it probably wouldn't matter. Might try Push-pull with the top rad at some point.

This is still a very much 1.0 setup, gonna be fine tuning it over the next couple of months!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I think you're actually losing performance with that loop (flow rate must be abysmal), I would clean up those tubing runs as much as you can and probably just stick with a single 480 (more than enough for what you're running)


Truth be told, my old 360mm + 120mm +120mm inside a HAF932 was more than sufficient, this is more of a "I wanna see what will happen" type project, there were so many rad mount points on this case!! I couldn't resist. The performance was pretty much where my simulation predicted at roughly twice the performance of my previous loop. This resulted in maybe 5C delta T across the board. The extreme silence was the most welcome improvement.

Flow rate was my biggest concern starting this project, the simulations pegged the estimated flowrate at .7GPM-1GPM. As a precaution, I added an additional D5 in series near the PSU, simulation estimates 1.5-2GPM which should be OK. I'm gonna try to hook up a flow meter to see exactly where it ended up.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions for me? I'm trying to find a 150mm reservoir, or a 100mm, with a Borosilicate Glass Tube, either stainless or nickel plated top and bottom, and a pump enclosure and pump top to match.


What about Watercool's Heatkiller line? Fits most of those listed requirements ^_^


----------



## HITTI

For to pull through the demcifilter and to push through the rad.

2 x


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> What about Watercool's Heatkiller line? Fits most of those listed requirements ^_^


Yes, I've ordered a 150mm reservoir already just to see what I might be able to do with it. I wish there were options for different colors for the top and the base. I bought the aluminum struts to replace the others so I can see how it looks. I know FrozenQ makes a tube res with aluminum end caps, which don't come in contact with the coolant, but it's on a 250mm reservoir, which is too big, and I don't think they sell just the end caps. If I can't find anything silver, chrome, or some other type of metallic color, I might just go with an all acrylic reservoir. I don't really want acetal.

Regarding the Heatkiller reservoir, don't they sell some where a DDC pump mounts to the bottom? I know EK, Bitspower, and Alphacool make a metal housing heatsink for the DDC pump. I haven't used one of these Heatkiller reservoirs before, but I don't think this DDC housing will work with it. I think the pump goes in the bottom of the reservoir and is surrounded by POM. From the pictures I've seen, the inlet/outlet ports are on the side of the Heatkiller DDC res.

Does anyone know what kind of pump/res this is?


----------



## rj2

that looks like a ddc series pump along with maybe an xspc or dangerden res top perhaps??


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> I think I am having temp issues with this loop, in 4k gaming the 1080gtx touches a peak of 53c while the cpu goes up to 77c (both overclocked).
> I don't know if I should replace my st30 120mm with a xt45 120mm or if I better change the pump.
> This is my pump (450lt/h)
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-spc-60-pwm-acetal-incl-pump
> 
> I was thinking to change it with this one which doubles the flow per hour:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> Or maybe also this one which has same performance but half price.
> 
> https://m.it.aliexpress.com/s/item/32759769550.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32759769550&productSubject=Barrow-12V-17w-Water-pump-sets-water-cooling-pump-cooling-system-water-pump-computer-speed-SPB17&isOrigTitle=true&aff_platform=aaf&cpt=1497889274852&sk=Y7bAZbY&aff_trace_key=fb9290994c8044ee8d7048e0bd1d5af5-1497889274852-04956-Y7bAZbY#autostay
> 
> What do you guys think/suggest?


Someone may have pointed this out already. I'm using my phone so it's hard to navigate.

Your tube between the gpu and single rad is folded which will reduce flow a d make temps high.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Someone may have pointed this out already. I'm using my phone so it's hard to navigate.
> 
> Your tube between the gpu and single rad is folded which will reduce flow a d make temps high.


yeah i'm waiting for the 90° fitting. In the meantime i fixed the kink with a hose clamp but no much changes on temps. I will lower down the CPU overclock


----------



## Rainmaker91

I'm about to order some new fittings, but it hit me that I really don't know much about the selection of hard-line fittings out there. I'm doing copper tubing with OD of either 10mm or preferably 12mm, but I figure I can use the same fittings as acrylic and glass tubing. Since I'm mostly used to soft tubing where fittings are fairly simple I haven't really thought all that much about which ones I was using before now, but since hard-line fittings basically clamp down on an O-ring I figure I should get some that are proven to be good this time around.

Any recommendations for fittings that just hold really well on to the pipes (I'm just going with flat black so a variety of colours isn't important)?


----------



## Ceadderman

If you're in the US50, I suggest Monsoon economy v2s' and SAE tubing. You can get 3/8" copper pipe relatively cheap in both coil or straight pipe. If you want 5/8" the price increase is a bit more but still easily doable at most hardware/ plumbing supply stores.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you're in the US50, I suggest Monsoon economy v2s' and SAE tubing. You can get 3/8" copper pipe relatively cheap in both coil or straight pipe. If you want 5/8" the price increase is a bit more but still easily doable at most hardware/ plumbing supply stores.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the tip, but I'm going to use 12mm pipes since imperial sized ones are fairly uncommon here in Norway. I am going to order from PPCs though, and I have been eying the Monsoon economy fittings, but 1/2" is 12.7mm so the fit might not be as tight as I want.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Thanks for the tip, but I'm going to use 12mm pipes since imperial sized ones are fairly uncommon here in Norway. I am going to order from PPCs though, and I have been eying the Monsoon economy fittings, but 1/2" is 12.7mm so the fit might not be as tight as I want.


I 2nd that recommendation of the EV2 compressions....I ordered mine from PPCS as well and got them custom etched for my build they came out amazing and you dont have to worry about the size difference, they stick in different size o-ring that cover the size differences in hard tube....the 3/8 comes with 3 different size o-ring and the 1/2id comes with 2....pretty much so you can use standard or metric tubes from different manufacturers without worrying...smartest move marketing wise


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you're in the US50, I suggest Monsoon economy v2s' and SAE tubing. You can get 3/8" copper pipe relatively cheap in both coil or straight pipe. If you want 5/8" the price increase is a bit more but still easily doable at most hardware/ plumbing supply stores.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip, but I'm going to use 12mm pipes since imperial sized ones are fairly uncommon here in Norway. I am going to order from PPCs though, and I have been eying the Monsoon economy fittings, but 1/2" is 12.7mm so the fit might not be as tight as I want.
Click to expand...

partially true, he offers 3 different ( or 2 different poosibly ) o rings to accommodate the differing sizes of tubing which from what i understand has been amazing


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Getting there, some tweaks to get the Eisbecher to fit, new panel being made as well as bottom


----------



## Danman980

Looking good there. Is that your own custom case?


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danman980*
> 
> Looking good there. Is that your own custom case?


Slight change on Parvum stock ATX M1.0 case


----------



## Danman980

I like it. Nice mod there mate.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Random question.

I have heard that some people have had issues with Mayhems Aurora with some pump/res combos. Has anyone used a DDC with Bitspower top and mod kit ?

Also, what is the lifespan of Aurora ?


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danman980*
> 
> I like it. Nice mod there mate.


Thanks , the back end but not hard tubing through there


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Random question.
> 
> I have heard that some people have had issues with Mayhems Aurora with some pump/res combos. Has anyone used a DDC with Bitspower top and mod kit ?
> 
> Also, what is the lifespan of Aurora ?


For safety sake? About as long as your photo shoot or trade show. Seriously it's definitely not a long term fluid. I would think the DDC wouldn't have any real problems, but I can't say for sure because although I have that combo in my little workstation - I've never run Aurora through it. I would think it would be more an issue of how restrictive the loop was rather than a particular combo - I've seen it with both DDC and D5 builds before.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you're in the US50, I suggest Monsoon economy v2s' and SAE tubing. You can get 3/8" copper pipe relatively cheap in both coil or straight pipe. If you want 5/8" the price increase is a bit more but still easily doable at most hardware/ plumbing supply stores.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip, but I'm going to use 12mm pipes since imperial sized ones are fairly uncommon here in Norway. I am going to order from PPCs though, and I have been eying the Monsoon economy fittings, but 1/2" is 12.7mm so the fit might not be as tight as I want.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> partially true, he offers 3 different ( or 2 different poosibly ) o rings to accommodate the differing sizes of tubing which from what i understand has been amazing
Click to expand...

Oooh yer so right Mega. I plain forgot about that.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

thanks for the help @Ceadderman, @hadesfactor and @Mega Man. I'll pull the trigger on those Monsoon Economy fittings, I need to order up my reservoir from PPCS anyway since they are among few who have the Koolance 80mm reservoirs in stock (I need a wide tube reservoir without any rod taking up space in the center of the reservoir so Koolance is the only real choice) and they also have the monsoon ones in stock.

I'll put in the order shortly


----------



## Mega Man

hope it works well for you, later ( kinda busy atm with the family ) ill show you a link in ref of what i mean


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Random question.
> 
> I have heard that some people have had issues with Mayhems Aurora with some pump/res combos. Has anyone used a DDC with Bitspower top and mod kit ?
> 
> Also, what is the lifespan of Aurora ?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/0_20

TCO


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Random question.
> 
> I have heard that some people have had issues with Mayhems Aurora with some pump/res combos. Has anyone used a DDC with Bitspower top and mod kit ?
> 
> Also, what is the lifespan of Aurora ?


I just ordered a DDC pump for a new build, and quite surprisingly, I ordered the Protium mod kit and reservoir, which is one of the products from Singularly Computers. I haven't got everything in yet, but I've used the Bitspower mod kit, and the whole reservoir, pump, top, mod, mounting, etc from this Protium line looked very impressive. I definitely liked all the different opinions available, as far as polished acrylic/frosted acrylic/acetal/etc (more options than this), and multiple inlet/outlet configurations and multiple mounting options. I was impressed, so I bought a Protium pump top, mod kit, reservoir, and mounting system giving me multiple options.

I think this guy was in the right time, at the right place, started some YouTube video series on modding and now he's totally leveraging his audience by offering these products all over the world. Who knows, when I get this thing, it might be a total piece of crap, but just from what I've read about the description of the items, I figured I'd give it a try.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Random question.
> 
> I have heard that some people have had issues with Mayhems Aurora with some pump/res combos. Has anyone used a DDC with Bitspower top and mod kit ?
> 
> Also, what is the lifespan of Aurora ?


I haven't touched the aurora fluid, but I do run a Bitspower DDC pump/res combo in my rig that is used on a daily basis. I can''t really say much about it other than that it looks to be working fine, no real issues. The main difference between the Bitspower kit and what many others offer is that the Bitspower one takes up very little space and is actually one of the most compact solutions I have seen for a DDC. If using a DDC I do recommend either getting the EKWB, koolance or Bitspower heatsink as the three of them have a direct contact with the PCB using a thermal pad while something like the Swiftech one seems to be added on top of the plastic housing rather than getting direct contact with the PCB which is what should be done with a heatsink.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Random question.
> 
> I have heard that some people have had issues with Mayhems Aurora with some pump/res combos. Has anyone used a DDC with Bitspower top and mod kit ?
> 
> Also, what is the lifespan of Aurora ?


The lifespan of aurora depends on your loop configuration. You'll get the longest life using a tube res with the return line at the top. Also you want to avoid 90 degree fittings as much as possible, remove any jet plates in the blocks and try to limit the number of components in the loop. I haven't used any ddc pumps so I don't have any advice for that, but for a D5 vario it works best at setting 4-5.
I believe they are on version 4 of the aurora, so it's gotten better over the years and should last a year or more with the right loop config.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

So many people have mixed feelings about Aurora but the one thing that rings true is that most say don't use it for prolonged periods.

Such a pity though ... haha, but it saves me buying new coolant, doubt the "booster" would have worked with EK Cryofuel anyway


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have used Aurora before.

It lasted less than 12 hrs before it fell out. Draw your own conclusions from that.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The lifespan of aurora depends on your loop configuration. You'll get the longest life using a tube res with the return line at the top. *Also you want to avoid 90 degree fittings as much as possible, remove any jet plates in the blocks and try to limit the number of components in the loop.* I haven't used any ddc pumps so I don't have any advice for that, but for a D5 vario it works best at setting 4-5.
> I believe they are on version 4 of the aurora, so it's gotten better over the years and should last a year or more with the right loop config.


So basically diminish the functional performance of your cooling solution as well as possibly the aesthetics of your tubing runs... so that it can look a little 'prettier' as far as the fluid is concerned.







Yep, that seems like a fair trade.

Probably better off just using clear coolant/water and buying one of these to put next to your rig:


----------



## Danman980

I have a bottle of Aurora fluid but I started hearing bad things about it so its just been sitting on the shelf. I think the look is great but I wasn't game to have it gum up my loop.

I think in the show systems it was developed for its fine as there is no need for it to last, just be eye candy for the show crowd.

I just use EK clear and distilled water in my loop . Its kinda boring I know but it works just fine and doesn't stain my hard tube etc.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Using or will be using Pastel for mine but Aurora will be used when its at shows. Filled up there and then, turned on and left on then drained


----------



## Danman980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Using or will be using Pastel for mine but Aurora will be used when its at shows. Filled up there and then, turned on and left on then drained


After its drained, do you strip the blocks down and clean them out or do you just rinse the loop out with distilled water?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> So basically diminish the functional performance of your cooling solution as well as possibly the aesthetics of your tubing runs... so that it can look a little 'prettier' as far as the fluid is concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, that seems like a fair trade.
> 
> Probably better off just using clear coolant/water and buying one of these to put next to your rig:


Exactly this, when did watercooling get so obsessed with appearance?
Has the community forgotten this is actually pretty dangerous for the components and forgoing functionality for the sake of aesthetics is a risky path?


----------



## HITTI

Just got done with a project with this yesterday.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Exactly this, when did watercooling get so obsessed with appearance?
> Has the community forgotten this is actually pretty dangerous for the components and forgoing functionality for the sake of aesthetics is a risky path?


Probably because appearance is one of the few reasons left for custom water cooling on modern rigs. That and the satisfaction you get from building your own loop, and imo, building an aesthetically pleasing loop is much more satisfying than one that is just built for function.

Custom water cooling *just for performance* doesn't make much sense anymore even for the vast majority of high performance rigs. You can get 90% of the cooling performance for 10% of the cost with air cooling.

And running these kinds of coolants isn't _"dangerous"_ for your components at all, you just have to clean your loop after using them.


----------



## khemist

Couldn't decide on Red or Blue so went with both, might change to one colour later.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't decide on Red or Blue so went with both, might change to one colour later.


Why not both?... indeed.


----------



## utparatrooper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I just ordered a DDC pump for a new build, and quite surprisingly, I ordered the Protium mod kit and reservoir, which is one of the products from Singularly Computers. I haven't got everything in yet, but I've used the Bitspower mod kit, and the whole reservoir, pump, top, mod, mounting, etc from this Protium line looked very impressive. I definitely liked all the different opinions available, as far as polished acrylic/frosted acrylic/acetal/etc (more options than this), and multiple inlet/outlet configurations and multiple mounting options. I was impressed, so I bought a Protium pump top, mod kit, reservoir, and mounting system giving me multiple options.
> 
> I think this guy was in the right time, at the right place, started some YouTube video series on modding and now he's totally leveraging his audience by offering these products all over the world. Who knows, when I get this thing, it might be a total piece of crap, but just from what I've read about the description of the items, I figured I'd give it a try.


I'm using their tube reservoir plus the pump top and D5 covers. While I don't have much experience in other brands, you can feel the quality of the pump top by its weight and finish.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Exactly this, when did watercooling get so obsessed with appearance?
> Has the community forgotten this is actually pretty dangerous for the components and forgoing functionality for the sake of aesthetics is a risky path?


Well, it really applies to almost anything people are passionate about customization-wise. Everyone has different tastes and different goals.

Here in Vegas you can't go 10 feet without seeing a 4X4 with fake extra exhaust tips and 24s with low profile tires.







And don't get me started on pink, orange, or green firearms...

But if it makes you happy, who am I to judge? Other than an ignorant few, I doubt many of the people wanting their PC (or vehicle for that matter) to look "cooler than anyone elses" are even using them to a fraction of their potential... so the 'damage' is probably minimal.

The ones that are determined to get every last .01% of _performance_ from their hardware aren't even using cases at all - but just a table in the corner or a test bench if they want to get really 'fancy'


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utparatrooper*
> 
> I'm using their tube reservoir plus the pump top and D5 covers. While I don't have much experience in other brands, you can feel the quality of the pump top by its weight and finish.


What DDC pump are you using? I'm hoping the Laing DDC-1T Plus will work in this pump mod since that's what I bought.


----------



## utparatrooper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> What DDC pump are you using? I'm hoping the Laing DDC-1T Plus will work in this pump mod since that's what I bought.


I was more speaking to the quality of the finished product (pump top, reservoir and D5 cover), which is very solid. I'm actually using 2 D5's (one Primochill PWM and one EK PWM). In addition, whenever you have doubts about fit with a particular pump - even after the fact, you can ask through their website to confirm. I did that and received a quick response.

I really hope they do well. I'm even supporting them via Patreon (on a small level). I only wish I had as much patience in my builds as they do (and my builds show the lack of patience I have).


----------



## Rolandooo

I decided to upgrade to PETG tubing and I don't regret it one bit. Now I just need to touch up on my coloring scheme and get my UV light in and installed. The green fan LEDs definitely overpower everything and I put them on a switch.

Before:


After:


----------



## Stickeelion

Am I the only person water cooling still who actually prefers flexible tubing?


----------



## Streetdragon

@Rolandooo

looks nice. for my taste a bit to much led, but yeah^^ its only one colour and not a rainbow in the case xD

Had yesterday a little heart-attack....


Swiftech Fansplitter. Lucky i was not gaming, i was cutting cardboard to hide all the wire a bit.
Out of the nothing it began to smoke next to me and i pulled the power cable out of the psu... shock of my life....

@Stickeelion
nope^^ i have ZMT


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Am I the only person water cooling still who actually prefers flexible tubing?


Me too, I just couldn't justify the ridiculous difficulty and risks of hard tubing vs soft tubing just for the sake of aesthetics. In a hobby with very little margin for error I went with EDPM, ugly, but extremely reliable.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Am I the only person water cooling still who actually prefers flexible tubing?


I prefer it from a usability standpoint, and I might choose to go back to soft tubing later on if the transition to pipes becomes to tiresome after a bit of time. Still though as @Gilles3000 and many others before him/her have mentioned, there is very little reason to go for water-cooling in this day and age unless it's for aesthetic reasons and for the most part hard-line looks better than soft tubing. Though everything is subjective, and soft tubing definitely wins out when it comes to usability and ease of maintenance.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Me too, I just couldn't justify the ridiculous difficulty and risks of hard tubing vs soft tubing just for the sake of aesthetics. In a hobby with very little margin for error I went with EDPM, ugly, but extremely reliable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I prefer it from a usability standpoint, and I might choose to go back to soft tubing later on if the transition to pipes becomes to tiresome after a bit of time. Still though as @Gilles3000 and many others before him/her have mentioned, there is very little reason to go for water-cooling in this day and age unless it's for aesthetic reasons and for the most part hard-line looks better than soft tubing. Though everything is subjective, and soft tubing definitely wins out when it comes to usability and ease of maintenance.


Functionally I prefer it, less prone to leaks and snapping, soft tubing compression fittings will almost never pull out and can handle much higher pressure.

Aesthetically I also prefer soft tubing, I liken it to fuel lines in an engine, or in the case of metal sleeved ones, they look like the fuel lines you find on aircraft, it also contrasts the even mechanical edges of the computer components and case with more fluid biological shapes. Adittionally, most of the time a hard lined water loop is not quite perfectly bent at 90 degrees, I see many projects where people are 5 or so degrees off and I find that if the tubing is not exactly in multiples of 45 or 90 degrees or its just off by a bit it just looks poor, worse than soft tubing.


----------



## catbuster

Hard tubing looks awesome if done right


----------



## Danman980

I'd go with hard tube every time. Even a hard tube that's a few degrees off looks much better than a big saggy loop of soft tube.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> So many people have mixed feelings about Aurora but the one thing that rings true is that most say don't use it for prolonged periods.
> 
> Such a pity though ... haha, but it saves me buying new coolant, doubt the "booster" would have worked with EK Cryofuel anyway


This is for the S3 I built.

Post when I first used Aurora (Red)


When I removed the Aurora 9 months Later

And what I currently looks like after removing the old aurora and replacing with just distilled. I still have Aurora Particles in the mix of fluid.




It looks like a moving cloud in the Res.

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Am I the only person water cooling still who actually prefers flexible tubing?


I do, for many reasons, but I like both.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Am I the only person water cooling still who actually prefers flexible tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer it from a usability standpoint, and I might choose to go back to soft tubing later on if the transition to pipes becomes to tiresome after a bit of time. Still though as @Gilles3000 and many others before him/her have mentioned, there is very little reason to go for water-cooling in this day and age unless it's for aesthetic reasons and for the most part hard-line looks better than soft tubing. Though everything is subjective, and soft tubing definitely wins out when it comes to usability and ease of maintenance.
Click to expand...

I just got told how wrong I was got saying this exactly, you water cool for looks, the love of the hobby or just because,......


----------



## dwolvin

There is no wrong answer, do it how you like. I have seen rigs far to beautiful to be in my 'office' to rigs that look like a train wrecked into a junkyard. If it works and makes you happy- All Good!

I love the look of good hard tube, but am generally an EDPM user myself. I don't want a computer of shame, but looks are tertiary after cheap / fast.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Am I the only person water cooling still who actually prefers flexible tubing?


I've never worked with hard line before, but it does look clean when done right. I personally will stick with the flex tubing though.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't decide on Red or Blue so went with both, might change to one colour later.


I like the cold in, hot out concept! Looking good khemist!








*Not sure if that's exactly how you have the loop configured, but still awesome regardless.


----------



## paskowitz

Best PETG bending guide/resource out there (video or text)?


----------



## khemist

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> I like the cold in, hot out concept! Looking good khemist!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Not sure if that's exactly how you have the loop configured, but still awesome regardless.


I only thought of that after i had installed, the Red is actually the inlet and i couldn't be bothered to redo it.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Best PETG bending guide/resource out there (video or text)?


i watched a lot before I got to bending, honestly I can say it doesn't help much. You really just need to get in there and waste tubing. Each tubing will have a different response to heat and forgiveness.

Couple tips I can off the top of my head.

#1) Dont use the high setting on the heat gun, unless you just wanna warm up the heat gun.
#2) It's much easier to use distance from the heat gun to control heat then it is adjusting the gun
#3) Heat around the area your going to bend , gloves take away the feel a bit but will help if you don't want to burn your fingertips
#4) Don't use soap water for silicone you don't need it.
#5) Take your time and make sure when you do bend your bending straight and not at an angle unless it's intetional
$6) I like to heat up the side of the tube that's being bent as I am bending it seems to make smoother bend for me
#7) Measure and always leave yourself slack. Slack can be cut off, a tube thats a bit short after you insert one end into a fitting is just wasted.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> false
> I only thought of that after i had installed, the Red is actually the inlet and i couldn't be bothered to redo it.


Makes sense, when I first posted that I only referenced the color tubing and assumed. It wasn't til after the posting went live that I noticed the CPU Block's in/outlet ports did I ninja edit in the *


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> i watched a lot before I got to bending, honestly I can say it doesn't help much. You really just need to get in there and waste tubing. Each tubing will have a different response to heat and forgiveness.
> 
> Couple tips I can off the top of my head.
> 
> #1) Dont use the high setting on the heat gun, unless you just wanna warm up the heat gun.
> #2) It's much easier to use distance from the heat gun to control heat then it is adjusting the gun
> #3) Heat around the area your going to bend , gloves take away the feel a bit but will help if you don't want to burn your fingertips
> #4) Don't use soap water for silicone you don't need it.
> #5) Take your time and make sure when you do bend your bending straight and not at an angle unless it's intetional
> $6) I like to heat up the side of the tube that's being bent as I am bending it seems to make smoother bend for me
> #7) Measure and always leave yourself slack. Slack can be cut off, a tube thats a bit short after you insert one end into a fitting is just wasted.


That's what I figured. I'm not too concerned as I have a couple mandrels to fall back to. Thanks for the tips.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Am I the only person water cooling still who actually prefers flexible tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> I've never worked with hard line before, but it does look clean when done right. I personally will stick with the flex tubing though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Now that's done right.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Best PETG bending guide/resource out there (video or text)?


Its the same as acrylic,link in my sig.


----------



## AstroSky

I can remember building a whole loop out of Chinese water cooling parts off of aliexpress (bysiki or something) and never once did i have issues. Ahhhh good times. back when fx 8350 was all the rage. saved me money and temps were golden.


----------



## Gabrielzm

PPC discount codes for those about to enjoy some fireworks...

Spend $50 or more and get 10% off!: "4JULY17-10"

(This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from June 27th through July 4th 2017. One coupon per order please.)


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> PPC discount codes for those about to enjoy some fireworks...
> 
> Spend $50 or more and get 10% off!: "4JULY17-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from June 27th through July 4th 2017. One coupon per order please.)


Well... like always I just put in an order... so... yeah. Anyway, thanks for sharing, and happy shopping to everyone else


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> PPC discount codes for those about to enjoy some fireworks...
> 
> Spend $50 or more and get 10% off!: "4JULY17-10"
> 
> (This offer is limited to most items on the website other than cases, processors, motherboards and Clearance items. Minimum $50 order. Coupon is good from June 27th through July 4th 2017. One coupon per order please.)


I've been wanting a new reservoir, may be the right time to get one.


----------



## AstroSky

This counts as watercooling build correct?


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: you want my honest answer



no, frankly i feel it is an insult to water cooling everywhere 





Spoiler: or the feel good answer ?



sure



click the one you pic, but dont click the other one !


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> This counts as watercooling build correct?


For the purposes of this thread, according to the OP, it does.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

OCD here at times

So heres some kaos


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't decide on Red or Blue so went with both, might change to one colour later.


Nice. Is that FEP you're using for wire?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> This counts as watercooling build correct?


Of course it does, and welcome


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> This counts as watercooling build correct?


what ram cooler is that? its aesthetic and my ram doesn't match my build colour so looking to something to cover it that i dont mind repainting


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> what ram cooler is that? its aesthetic and my ram doesn't match my build colour so looking to something to cover it that i dont mind repainting


Believe it's the GSkill Turbulence here


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Nice. Is that FEP you're using for wire?


Yeah, from Moddiy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

AIO's are more than welcome.

The same endless pics of the same 'rig'.....less so.


----------



## sai86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> Exactly. I've been using propylene glycol (ie. car coolant) for over a decade now and never had a problem.
> 
> I remember on here years ago a number of us said we just used car coolant and so many lost their minds - but those same ppl are now using the "PC water coolant" (ie. car coolant with a "PC Coolant" label) in their loops now for the same reason me and many others have been using simple car coolant for years - car coolants have used additives to stop gunk and corrosion for almost a century, so it made a lot of sense to use it to stop the gunk and corrosion


Its a disaster trying to get WC items in the country i'm in now - Singapore.
I would like to know is this propylene glycol that is usable? Is there any mixture with distill water required?
your input is appreciate








https://singaporesoap.com/supplies/propylene-glycol-usp/

no more pastel for me as it basically not worth the hassle it caused:thumbsdow


----------



## kuchi

*Updated photos!*


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

I'm planning a build with 3 x SE360 with CPU and one GPU and a custom acrylic reservoir.

I'm wondering what kind of pump I would need?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Cheers,


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> I'm planning a build with 3 x SE360 with CPU and one GPU and a custom acrylic reservoir.
> 
> I'm wondering what kind of pump I would need?
> 
> Thanks for any help you can give.
> 
> Cheers,


Well... since youre already spending that amount on a loop I wouldn't go for anything less then a DDC, and preferably a D5 since you clearly seem to be after silence (3x360mm is way overkill for 2 components, so I can't find any other reason. Unless it's a Skylake X part, in which case maybe more radiator space...







). Though some will probably suggest a double D5 set-up since you're already splurging on redundant components.

Edit: oh and a bit of advice, if you really are after silence 500RPM is about where you want to be at with your fans. I'm seriously annoyed by my 800RPM fans.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well... since youre already spending that amount on a loop I wouldn't go for anything less then a DDC, and preferably a D5 since you clearly seem to be after silence (3x360mm is way overkill for 2 components, so I can't find any other reason. Unless it's a Skylake X part, in which case maybe more radiator space...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Though some will probably suggest a double D5 set-up since you're already splurging on redundant components.
> 
> Edit: oh and a bit of advice, if you really are after silence 500RPM is about where you want to be at with your fans. I'm seriously annoyed by my 800RPM fans.


So 500rpm fans with dual D5 pumps. Thanks for the info. I Love over kill. I'll tag you if you like when I create the build log.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> So 500rpm fans with dual D5 pumps. Thanks for the info. I Love over kill. I'll tag you if you like when I create the build log.


'

Sure, I have a way overkill build as well. Though if you havent chosen fans yet, may I recommend the Corsair ML120? it's really good for what it is, but it was way to expensive for me. Other than that the Noiseblocker Eloops are seriously quiet as well (probably more so than the MLs, but far less convenient), but can't be mounted in pull or towards a fan grill.

Edit: also if you have space for it, 140mm fans are generally more quiet than 120mm ones. there is no need though as both are virtually unnoticeable at 500rpm.


----------



## Dortheleus

Has anyone played with Scythe fans?

I'm looking at these fans that say going 200 - 1300 RPM with only 3.0 - 26.5 dbA.


----------



## Bogga

Finished my project and took it to Dreamhack for the case mod competition... I fell in love with this stuff! The community and everyone around was so welcoming and friendly and I got a taste for all this









This was my first real project and I learnt a lot along the way. What to do, what I can do better and what not to do. So another project is coming right up... gotta have something for dreamhack winter!


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuchi*
> 
> 
> 
> *Updated photos!*


I would be careful with the anti vortex sponge in your res. My previous build, I took the loop down for maintenance after 1.5 years and the sponge broke down in my hand. It gets extremely brittle and can break down in your loop clogging up blocks.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Has anyone played with Scythe fans?
> 
> I'm looking at these fans that say going 200 - 1300 RPM with only 3.0 - 26.5 dbA.


Depends on what Scythe fans you are referring to, either way this thread is worth a look.


----------



## KCDC

The Noctua NF A14 PWM fans I just installed (3 per rad and 2 exhaust) make my old corsair ML140 fans sound like jet engines, I was blown away with the difference. Ok, I am exaggerating a bit, but there is definite noticeable difference across the entire RPM range, even at full tilt 1500 RPM the noise is very low.

Almost went with the beQuiets that were slightly more expensive, but at 8 fans I saved 30-40 bucks.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> The Noctua NF A14 PWM fans I just installed (3 per rad and 2 exhaust) make my old corsair ML140 fans sound like jet engines, I was blown away with the difference. Ok, I am exaggerating a bit, but there is definite noticeable difference across the entire RPM range, even at full tilt 1500 RPM the noise is very low.
> 
> Almost went with the beQuiets that were slightly more expensive, but at 8 fans I saved 30-40 bucks.


I scrapped my A14s for Phanteks PH-F140SP (it's what came with my case so I tested them against each-other) and found that I preferred the Phanteks fans. Then later on I ended up scrapping even those for some eloops which at least to me sounds better than both. My main problem with Noctua is not the overall amount of noise they make (they are very competitive in that regard), but that the motor used make a very distinctive noise that I simply did not like as much as the Phanteks and eloop fans. It's not always about the amount of noise as much as the type of noise they make, and whether or not that fits your ears well.

I really like BeQuiet fans though as they generally have a very pleasant "swosh" sound like the eloops.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I scrapped my A14s for Phanteks PH-F140SP (it's what came with my case so I tested them against each-other) and found that I preferred the Phanteks fans. Then later on I ended up scrapping even those for some eloops which at least to me sounds better than both. My main problem with Noctua is not the overall amount of noise they make (they are very competitive in that regard), but that the motor used make a very distinctive noise that I simply did not like as much as the Phanteks and eloop fans. It's not always about the amount of noise as much as the type of noise they make, and whether or not that fits your ears well.
> 
> I really like BeQuiet fans though as they generally have a very pleasant "swosh" sound like the eloops.


Interesting, I don't hear anything, but that could be due to having fairly bad tinnitus haha! Either way they were a welcome improvement from what I had.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Interesting, I don't hear anything, but that could be due to having fairly bad tinnitus haha! Either way they were a welcome improvement from what I had.


You may just like the sound from those particular fans. I tend to look at it like music, everyone has different tastes and since we are talking about a monotonous sound it has to be something that you personally like (though we will all get used to it in time like the hum from a refrigerator). It's one of the reasons I miss not having a retailer close by so that I can test stuff before buying it, after all I don't buy music before listening to a demo first so why would I buy fans that way.


----------



## kuchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> I would be careful with the anti vortex sponge in your res. My previous build, I took the loop down for maintenance after 1.5 years and the sponge broke down in my hand. It gets extremely brittle and can break down in your loop clogging up blocks.


*Thanks for your suggestion. I will take it off when next maintenance.*


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> You may just like the sound from those particular fans. I tend to look at it like music, everyone has different tastes and since we are talking about a monotonous sound it has to be something that you personally like (though we will all get used to it in time like the hum from a refrigerator). It's one of the reasons I miss not having a retailer close by so that I can test stuff before buying it, after all I don't buy music before listening to a demo first so why would I buy fans that way.


Quite true, I get what you're saying.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kuchi*
> 
> 
> 
> *Updated photos!*
> 
> 
> 
> I would be careful with the anti vortex sponge in your res. My previous build, I took the loop down for maintenance after 1.5 years and the sponge broke down in my hand. It gets extremely brittle and can break down in your loop clogging up blocks.
Click to expand...

I think EK have a little anti-vortex perspex plate that stands vertical and plugs into the bottom of their cylindrical reservoirs that is just as effective

http://i.imgur.com/f6IrMW9.jpg

Go for the setup on the far left


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

Continuing my fan question of earlier, I have 9 fans and only one system fan plug on the mobo. What is the best solution to this problem?

Cheers,


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Continuing my fan question of earlier, I have 9 fans and only one system fan plug on the mobo. What is the best solution to this problem?
> 
> Cheers,




one of these, you can also get ones with a molex plug on the end
Called Fan splitters or fan power distribution boards


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Continuing my fan question of earlier, I have 9 fans and only one system fan plug on the mobo. What is the best solution to this problem?
> 
> Cheers,


https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-splitter-4-fan-pwm-extended

This little beauty. I'm assuming your Mobo is a 4pin? and you want full PWM control of those fans?
What you do is get a pair of those 4 way adaptors I linked above, don't worry about power safety because the power to the fans is handled by the Molex connector direct you your PSU (which is a ton safer than daisy chaining off the mobo), the mobo only provides the PWM signal.

You then get one of these:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-y-splitter-3-fan-pwm-10cm

Split the PWM signal 3 way with the 3rd end powering the 9nth fan. This way, you can PWM control all 9 fans off a single Mobo header without blowing up your mobo connector.

Power is delivered to 8 of the fans via Molex (which is 12V and extremely safe) while the 9nth sips power off the mobo.


----------



## Dortheleus

Thanks guys

I found this on Newegg that will be perfect for me.


----------



## dicom

Updated PC with new parts, current White Storm 2.5 build:


----------



## sdmf74

Anybody here with an Asus maximus ix formula/code and an NVME ssd installed in the first slot?

Im wondering if I can slip the ssd cover off with my gpu installed, or will I have to remove my gpu to remove the cover?

It looks like the ssd cover extends underneath the gpu but im not sure if it can be removed with (watercooled) gpu in place. Asus says the cover has hinges but im not sure what side they are on


----------



## DarthBaggins

More than likely you will have to remove the GPU if there is a hinged cover.


----------



## kroaton

still waiting for the 90 degree fitting and extender, but in the meantime i have installed a barrow rgb fan connected to the led strip and have temporary fixed the kink. I think i will order anothe barrow rgb fan to replace the white enermax cluster on top


----------



## dwolvin

How do you like the Barrow fan? I saw them on Amazon and was close to trying some...


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> How do you like the Barrow fan? I saw them on Amazon and was close to trying some...


I have to say that it's really well done, it's only 8 euros instead of 20 or 25 euros of ThermalTake or Coolermaster RGB ones. it has 900-1800rpm, has silicon at the 4 angles for antivibration and it's quite silent too. I think it's a great buy, the lighting anyway is not so bright as competitors


----------



## Mega Man

1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dortheleus*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Continuing my fan question of earlier, I have 9 fans and only one system fan plug on the mobo. What is the best solution to this problem?
> 
> Cheers,


aquaero

2 depends on on types of fans

( one or the other of the above some pwm options were already given )


----------



## AstroSky

Looking to build a cpu waterloop on a budget. Yes i know budget and watercooling is a taboo word around here but i know for a fact people have had great success with a brand called Barrow and bysiki or whatever they are called. i got a few parts picked out. My only question is its got two different metals. what kind of additives would i need to add to help prevent or at least keep it at bay as long as i change the fluid from time to time. what kind of water would be best. Copper and aluminium radiator. Well the copper is plated nickle i think on the cpu block.


----------



## AstroSky

but its only going to cost me 150 total for a 360 radiator and a pretty decent pump and from reviews sake the block. Fittings are pretty well known too as they are barrow fittings. not a bad price and if i want i can get a gpu block one day and upgrade the loop for not much more.


----------



## Mega Man

simple - dont

even with anti corrosives- dont

either get a AL block or a CU rad


----------



## AstroSky

i see so many people doing it and not having ANY issues mixing nickle plated copper and rad with different metals. But if i was to just go for a copper rad instead. That would fix this issue? i dont mind spending a little extra to make it a little more safe.


----------



## KaffieneKing

You can mix nickel, copper and brass in a loop without worry.

You should probably use a premix for coolant anyway for antimicrobial agents.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Mixing aluminum and copper will only end in a really bad time, gunned up blocks at best (and terrible temperatures) or a hole being formed somewhere and all that water making its way into your electrical components and then shorting them out.

Mixing copper and aluminum in a water loop is a really, REALLY bad idea.

If you're looking to do inexpensive but can't afford upgrading to full copper, there always is EK's gaming fluid kits which get you nice fans, nice fittings, good tubing, an awesome cpu block and a fairly well designed radiator. The parts are not only compatible with each other but you're also supporting one of the companies that Byski is copying designs from - y'know, the company that put all that time effort and cash into creating it in the first place. ^_^

Edited due to a spelling error. Silly autocorrect.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> i see so many people doing it and not having ANY issues mixing nickle plated copper and rad with different metals. But if i was to just go for a copper rad instead. That would fix this issue? i dont mind spending a little extra to make it a little more safe.


while i agree with the post before mine. nickel wont help copper survive, i promise ....

although i too would recommend the new ek kits ( to be 100% accurate it is a new company, from ek, a "spin off" if you will )


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> still waiting for the 90 degree fitting and extender, but in the meantime i have installed a barrow rgb fan connected to the led strip and have temporary fixed the kink. I think i will order anothe barrow rgb fan to replace the white enermax cluster on top


Sorry for some reason I can't use spoiler tabs on my phone, I just wanted to ask what rgb strip that is I'm looking for one for my own computer. Also does anyone know of any strips that are dimmable? (Possibly by turning every second led off or something


----------



## sli_shroom

i have had good luck with these...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HCJNS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

they are powered over usb, so they are a good use for those unused 2.0 usb ports. i havent tried dimming them off of a rheostat (fan controller), but they can be dimmed using the buttons on the remote


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> i have had good luck with these...
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HCJNS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> they are powered over usb, so they are a good use for those unused 2.0 usb ports. i havent tried dimming them off of a rheostat (fan controller), but they can be dimmed using the buttons on the remote


Those strips are rated for 1 amp, but USB 2.0 is only rated for 500 milliamps (1/2 amp.) Even USB 3.0 is only rated for 900 milliamps.

Read your motherboard manual, as many boards will provide a full amp regardless of the spec for "fast charging" but some might not...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> Updated PC with new parts, current White Storm 2.5 build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really like that build. Only the door grill really should have been cut away and the window blocked by the sheet metal.









~Ceadder


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Sorry for some reason I can't use spoiler tabs on my phone, I just wanted to ask what rgb strip that is I'm looking for one for my own computer. Also does anyone know of any strips that are dimmable? (Possibly by turning every second led off or something


It's an icemodz led strip that I attached to the case with a magnetic sticker


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Copper and Alu can be run together with the right coolant....and not Mayhems either. You will require heavy dosing with Sentinel x100 or similar.

However,the trade off is not worth it and the inhibitor is very expensive.


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Really like that build. Only the door grill really should have been cut away and the window blocked by the sheet metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm glad you like it









Yes i know that door grill need to be cut away, i will fix it (my wrong measurement).

In addition i have four ML120 fans for GPU in push/pull configuration.
Two are at the bottom, which you can't see on pictures


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> but its only going to cost me 150 total for a 360 radiator and a pretty decent pump and from reviews sake the block. Fittings are pretty well known too as they are barrow fittings. not a bad price and if i want i can get a gpu block one day and upgrade the loop for not much more.


Watercooling on a budget is almost never worth it compared to premium air cooling (plenty of good case fans, Noctua/Cryorig CPU cooler, solid GPU cooler like the Strix).


----------



## DarthBaggins

Depends on where you look to get your deals on parts, I know I did my 1st loop on all used parts minus the tubing and fluid and worked out perfectly for cooling my 8350 (at that time) running 5.0Ghz 24/7 for [email protected]


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Watercooling on a budget is almost never worth it compared to premium air cooling (plenty of good case fans, Noctua/Cryorig CPU cooler, solid GPU cooler like the Strix).


Agreed watercooling on a budget may work but can present problems in the long run and also detracts from one of the main benefits of watercooling which is aesthetics.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Watercooling on a budget is almost never worth it compared to premium air cooling (plenty of good case fans, Noctua/Cryorig CPU cooler, solid GPU cooler like the Strix).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Agreed watercooling on a budget may work but can present problems in the long run and also detracts from one of the main benefits of watercooling which is aesthetics.


While I agree that focusing on a budget in front of aesthetics/performance may not be as good of an idea as in other parts of computer building, that doesn't really subtract from the classic "bang for buck" approach that I personally think should also apply to water cooling. Buying parts used as DarthBaggins mentioned is a great way of cutting off some of the cost from a full custom loop, and I did a lot of my first loop the exact same way. As long as you get quality parts, it doesn't really matter that you paid a fraction of the price they normally cost. My current loop is a result of me picking the best deals I could find, but that doesn't necessarily mean I sacrificed anything when it comes to performance or the overall aesthetics of my build. Looking for EOL products and clearance sales is a great way to start off with some of the things in the loop (I got my fittings for a fraction of the cost that way), and looking for used parts is also a very viable option. There is of-course the more untraditional brands to look out for as well, so say replacing bitspower fittings with Barrow fittings is not a bad choice.

The only thing people need to be concerned about is that they actually get quality for their money and that it fits with what they are after.

Edit: Oh and just so that I can give some help instead of me just whining about stuff:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> i see so many people doing it and not having ANY issues mixing nickle plated copper and rad with different metals. But if i was to just go for a copper rad instead. That would fix this issue? i dont mind spending a little extra to make it a little more safe.


If you are getting Barrow fittings I assume you are getting them from the Formulamod store on Aliexpress? if not then you can always check it out or disregard my comment. That said, any of these radiators should work fine without giving any issues with corrosion:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/McCurry-Cool-Seoul-cooled-120-water-cooled-copper-double-radiator-exhaust-heat-exchanger-cooled-exhaust-water/431286_1094652131.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Barrow-copper-360mm-computer-Water-discharge-liquid-heat-exchanger-threaded-thread-radiator-for-12cm-fans-Dabel/431286_32730219698.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Ke-Ruiwo-Katyusha-360-full-copper-water-cooled-radiator-exhaust-heat-exchanger-water-cooling-radiator-copper/431286_1094637149.html

I would also strongly advice you to check out the OCN market for some deals, as I have personally picked up really good components there before for really decent prices.


----------



## VSG

Swiftech's new block is finally out, at least as a pre-order of the flagship versions: http://www.swiftech.com/apogee-skf-heirloom-series.aspx


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech's new block is finally out, at least as a pre-order of the flagship versions: http://www.swiftech.com/apogee-skf-heirloom-series.aspx


Not feeling that at all,l like the aesthetic direction kinda but overall it looks cheaply made...

Looking at the design....crossflow? Gabe...its 2017 already,move on and skivved baseplates are not 'new technology'.

You have one coming for thermal testing?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech's new block is finally out, at least as a pre-order of the flagship versions: http://www.swiftech.com/apogee-skf-heirloom-series.aspx


Interesting aesthetic and I love how it's customizable, but the biggest question most are going to have is does it perform, and more importantly does it perform with the newer ThreadRipper/Epyc sockets (and x299) it claims to support... Or will jumping the shark to be first in line come with drawbacks.

My biggest curiosity is if it will bring Swiftech into the realm other companies are in for cooling capabilities, as their past block design lagged behind the other mainstream companies.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech's new block is finally out, at least as a pre-order of the flagship versions: http://www.swiftech.com/apogee-skf-heirloom-series.aspx


thats great, but they should already have an online presence, like they used to. kinda pathetic they dont, i used to be a big supporter. but now... they dont even have hard line fittings out ....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not feeling that at all,l like the aesthetic direction kinda but overall it looks cheaply made...
> 
> Looking at the design....crossflow? Gabe...its 2017 already,move on and skivved baseplates are not 'new technology'.
> 
> You have one coming for thermal testing?


Yeah I believe one is coming in. Based on what they said, this "heirloom" series has the customization options and there will be a "normal" series with fixed options later at lower price points. The biggest thing I can see here are the 125 micron thick microfins/channels so flow restriction will be high.


----------



## Mega Man

imo they are going for a certain market..... ill use the p.c. word of " flashy "

look at the 3 videos. imo spending budget in the wrong areas, look at eks product releases. they dont need flashy fluff videos to release something.


----------



## sdmf74

I need to verify something as ive read conflicting answers online. On the Maximus IX Formula do BOTH M.2 slots use lanes from the PCH or cpu lanes? or does one slot use pch lanes and the other cpu


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Swiftech's new block is finally out, at least as a pre-order of the flagship versions: http://www.swiftech.com/apogee-skf-heirloom-series.aspx


I like it! It's a little different than what I remember Stephen showing me about a year and a half ago, but it's close. Maybe I'll use one of these when I jump back into custom water cooling.


----------



## jon666

I love the black chrome color. If they ever sell radiators like that I will be jumping all over that.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I need to verify something as ive read conflicting answers online. On the Maximus IX Formula do BOTH M.2 slots use lanes from the PCH or cpu lanes? or does one slot use pch lanes and the other cpu


According to Intel, the i7-7700k has only 16 PCIe lanes off the CPU. Those are most likely going to the video card. So, the answer seems to be that neither would be using CPU lanes (and both would be using PCH lanes.) The only way to get more CPU lanes would be to go with a X99 (or X299) board and processor.

Source: https://ark.intel.com/products/97129/Intel-Core-i7-7700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_50-GHz


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> According to Intel, the i7-7700k has only 16 PCIe lanes off the CPU. Those are most likely going to the video card. So, the answer seems to be that neither would be using CPU lanes (and both would be using PCH lanes.) The only way to get more CPU lanes would be to go with a X99 (or X299) board and processor.
> 
> Source: https://ark.intel.com/products/97129/Intel-Core-i7-7700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_50-GHz


Z270 chipset added lanes, I thought it was Kaby Lake that added lanes to the cpu but I guess not, it appears that the motherboard manufacturers added lanes to the PCH for dual M.2 capability?

I just found this but what I dont get is if Z270 only added 4 PCIe lanes how does that account for qty. 2 4x M.2 lanes? I guess the Z170 chipset already supported one M.2 4x lane so going from 20 lanes to 24 lanes allows for dual M.2 support?



Nevermind - The PCIe lanes and HSIO lanes are somewhat shared and Z270 adds 4 more PCIe lanes and 4 more HSIO lanes over Z170


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Z270 chipset added lanes, I thought it was Kaby Lake that added lanes to the cpu but I guess not, it appears that the motherboard manufacturers added lanes to the PCH for dual M.2 capability?


Well.... they... "share" PCH lanes among different things.







So, if you use one of the m.2 slots in PCIEx4 mode, it might disable a couple of lines from a PCIe slot, or might disable some SATA ports, etc. Intel documents the Z270 chipset as having "Max # of PCI Express Lanes" as 24. I don't know if that's 24 PCH lanes + 16 CPU lanes (+4 DMI 3.0 lanes for chipset <> CPU bus) or if it's 24 total lanes available to the system.

Here's Intel's spec for the Z270 chipset: https://ark.intel.com/products/98089/Intel-Z270-Chipset

(A bit of detail: There are 4 "hidden" PCIe lanes coming from the CPU going to the PCH. Those lanes are used exclusively for communication between the CPU/PCH. Any PCIe lanes provided by the PCH are actually sharing those 4 exclusive lanes to the CPU, and so they might run slower than lanes going direct to the CPU. However, what is the likelihood of having enough PCIe traffic on the PCH lanes that they'd actually saturate 4 real lanes at any given instant of time? 2 current generation NVMe devices won't do it.)


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah see my above post I edited it.

I believe its setup like this on the M9F, the M.2_1 slot disables the sata 1 port but only when using a "sata' M.2 ssd
And when using the M.2_2 slot it disables sata 5/6 ports

Its kinda makin sense now....


----------



## Gilles3000

@sdmf74 & @garyd9 I usually don't mind some off topic in this thread, but come on, there are much better threads to ask, answer or discuss these questions.

[OFFICIAL] ASUS Z270 ROG IX SERIES OWNER'S THREAD
ASUS Z270 motherboards - North America Q/A thread


----------



## bluedevil

Currently testing the EKWB A240G for the OCN YouTube channel...pretty impressive little kit.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Currently testing the EKWB A240G for the OCN YouTube channel...pretty impressive little kit.


Everything I've watched or read on the kit shows this is a great bang for the buck intro into water cooling. As long as buyers are aware of not mixing metals it's all good. Truly though if they do end up mixing in a copper part it really is on the consumer. Sort of like buying ddr4 for a ddr3 board. It's up to the consumer to do their due diligence.

Certainly hope it's a big enough hit that ek does release some more aluminum parts. I'd hate to see people invest in something like this to only hit a wall and be unable to upgrade their loop.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Truly though if they do end up mixing in a copper part it really is on the consumer. Sort of like buying ddr4 for a ddr3 board. It's up to the consumer to do their due diligence.


Yes... but remember that this kit is targeted to people new to water cooling... They'll see the big warning stickers on the aluminum parts they buy, but they aren't going to see similar stickers on OTHER parts. I can easily see some newbie buying this kit and thinking that it's great. Then deciding to expand the system to also cool their GPU card (or perhaps add a radiator.) They'll run to the their local Micro Center (or online at amazon or PPCs, etc) and find GPU blocks and additional fittings made by the same company, EK, and order them. Being the new parts have no warning stickers, they might not realize that they are mixing metals... There's nothing on the EK GPU block boxes that says "Hey! This is made with copper!" or on the radiator boxes (which don't list any metal information)... or even on the compression fittings.

I think this is even MORE likely to happen because of the lack of any aluminum expansion parts for the aluminum kits. Because of that, even careful people might guess that as long as it's made by the same company, it should be safe (when, in fact, almost NOTHING actually available for sale is safe.)

Sure, it's up to the customer to be educated, but let's be honest that most customers aren't (and don't want to be.) I can't help but to remember the woman who sued McDonald's (and won!) because her hot McDonald's coffee burned her and there wasn't a warning on the coffee cup.

It might have been better had EK tooled to make the aluminum parts use something other than G1/4 threads. That would, at least, prevent screwing an aluminum fitting into a copper radiator. Then, perhaps, use a tubing size that isn't already used by copper-based systems, so that the entire aluminum-based cooling system was physical incompatible with the existing copper-based systems.

Of course, I could be completely paranoid and wrong. I can't predict the future... I just like trying to anticipate problems before they occur.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Yes... but remember that this kit is targeted to people new to water cooling... They'll see the big warning stickers on the aluminum parts they buy, but they aren't going to see similar stickers on OTHER parts. I can easily see some newbie buying this kit and thinking that it's great. Then deciding to expand the system to also cool their GPU card (or perhaps add a radiator.) They'll run to the their local Micro Center (or online at amazon or PPCs, etc) and find GPU blocks and additional fittings made by the same company, EK, and order them. Being the new parts have no warning stickers, they might not realize that they are mixing metals... There's nothing on the EK GPU block boxes that says "Hey! This is made with copper!" or on the radiator boxes (which don't list any metal information)... or even on the compression fittings.
> 
> I think this is even MORE likely to happen because of the lack of any aluminum expansion parts for the aluminum kits. Because of that, even careful people might guess that as long as it's made by the same company, it should be safe (when, in fact, almost NOTHING actually available for sale is safe.)
> 
> Sure, it's up to the customer to be educated, but let's be honest that most customers aren't (and don't want to be.) I can't help but to remember the woman who sued McDonald's (and won!) because her hot McDonald's coffee burned her and there wasn't a warning on the coffee cup.
> 
> It might have been better had EK tooled to make the aluminum parts use something other than G1/4 threads. That would, at least, prevent screwing an aluminum fitting into a copper radiator. Then, perhaps, use a tubing size that isn't already used by copper-based systems, so that the entire aluminum-based cooling system was physical incompatible with the existing copper-based systems.
> 
> Of course, I could be completely paranoid and wrong. I can't predict the future... I just like trying to anticipate problems before they occur.


This was exactly my concern about the product as well. I fully expect people to buy these kits and expand them with brass fittings and radiators, as well as copper/nickel blocks. Using aluminum is likely to be a double edged sword, as they can't warn people to much either as no one will end up buying them in that case. There is also the new Corsair parts which I assume will be pushed hard if I know Corsair. This being essentially Aquacomputer pars they will all be copper/nickel so I expect a lot of people will buy parts, but end up ruining them in a year or two.

To me this seems like a bad idea in general, instead of cutting costs in other ways such as doing blocks like Alphacool and radiators like Watercool (copper and brass channels with aluminum fins).


----------



## Jyve

When I first got into water I read my ass off! Those that don't do the same are making a huge mistake. Those that don't run the risk of issues and again that's on them. Ek has put warnings on their box and realistically that's all they really can do. To make things fit differently like different fitting sizes is overkill and IMO is not their responsibility.

Mixing liquid and pc components can be a risky undertaking and deserves a lot of research. It's not as simple as slapping an air cooler on. To research something like this is on the buyer.


----------



## Stickeelion

To add to this not even all nickel as the same electronegativity, depending on what it's alloyed with, for copper nickel silver has the closest electronegativity and would be the best choice, in addition to that with stainless steel in a loop it's better to use martensitic steel than ferritic or austenitic. Certain nickel alloys can increase corrosion of copper blocks, particularily the more noble ones.

http://www.ssina.com/images/corrosion/galvanic-series.gif

If you look at this table in the link you want a difference of less than 0.15v to assure that no galvanic corrosion will occur. So even adding gold fittings in a loop (which I've seen done) may cause copper blocks to corrode and some nickel alloys.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> When I first got into water I read my ass off! Those that don't do the same are making a huge mistake. Those that don't run the risk of issues and again that's on them. Ek has put warnings on their box and realistically that's all they really can do. To make things fit differently like different fitting sizes is overkill and IMO is not their responsibility.
> 
> Mixing liquid and pc components can be a risky undertaking and deserves a lot of research. It's not as simple as slapping an air cooler on. To research something like this is on the buyer.


Oh, I agree that the buyer SHOULD pay close attention. In the real world, however, many people don't pay close attention. Granted, it'll be their own fault if something goes wrong, but they'll still blame EK (even if they shouldn't) and if there's a lot of negative reviews and/or press about it, EK's sales will end up suffering.

Look, the whole aluminum thing doesn't impact me whatsoever. *I* research things before I buy them, and I know to identify the material something is made out of before letting it touch water. I'm even paranoid about using zinc screws to mount a fan on a radiator. The purpose of my post is to urge EK to be more cautious. They (EK) are courting water "newbies" with kits that will get them started with very advanced things, but with nearly no needed education and at a very low cost. That's an invitation for "less technical" people to use the product. Those "less technical" people are also the ones that will blame EK when something goes wrong (instead of trying to understand it.)

Going back to the mention of the lady who sued McDonald's over hot coffee. It doesn't matter that the McDonald's didn't really do anything wrong, and that the lady is (IMO) an idiot for not assuming that hot coffee is going to be.. well.. hot. She still sued and won. (No, I don't think anyone will sue EK, but I wouldn't be surprised if someone screamed loudly enough to impact EK's sales.)


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> When I first got into water I read my ass off! Those that don't do the same are making a huge mistake. Those that don't run the risk of issues and again that's on them. Ek has put warnings on their box and realistically that's all they really can do. To make things fit differently like different fitting sizes is overkill and IMO is not their responsibility.
> 
> Mixing liquid and pc components can be a risky undertaking and deserves a lot of research. It's not as simple as slapping an air cooler on. To research something like this is on the buyer.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, I agree that the buyer SHOULD pay close attention. In the real world, however, many people don't pay close attention. Granted, it'll be their own fault if something goes wrong, but they'll still blame EK (even if they shouldn't) and if there's a lot of negative reviews and/or press about it, EK's sales will end up suffering.
> 
> Look, the whole aluminum thing doesn't impact me whatsoever. *I* research things before I buy them, and I know to identify the material something is made out of before letting it touch water. I'm even paranoid about using zinc screws to mount a fan on a radiator. The purpose of my post is to urge EK to be more cautious. They (EK) are courting water "newbies" with kits that will get them started with very advanced things, but with nearly no needed education and at a very low cost. That's an invitation for "less technical" people to use the product. Those "less technical" people are also the ones that will blame EK when something goes wrong (instead of trying to understand it.)
> 
> Going back to the mention of the lady who sued McDonald's over hot coffee. It doesn't matter that the McDonald's didn't really do anything wrong, and that the lady is (IMO) an idiot for not assuming that hot coffee is going to be.. well.. hot. She still sued and won. (No, I don't think anyone will sue EK, but I wouldn't be surprised if someone screamed loudly enough to impact EK's sales.)
Click to expand...

I don't think the target market for these kits are likely to upgrade/expand their loops. It's targeted at mid range gaming builds that won't likely need extra radiators/blocks/fittings. Just a way to get them into custom watercooling for a price that makes sense with their hardware.

Also, here's something about that mcdonalds case.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> To add to this not even all nickel as the same electronegativity, depending on what it's alloyed with, for copper nickel silver has the closest electronegativity and would be the best choice, in addition to that with stainless steel in a loop it's better to use martensitic steel than ferritic or austenitic. Certain nickel alloys can increase corrosion of copper blocks, particularily the more noble ones.
> 
> http://www.ssina.com/images/corrosion/galvanic-series.gif
> 
> If you look at this table in the link you want a difference of less than 0.15v to assure that no galvanic corrosion will occur. So even adding gold fittings in a loop (which I've seen done) may cause copper blocks to corrode and some nickel alloys.


That chart is a saltwater corrosion chart,bears no resemblance to freshwater.

You guys are missing the fundamental part to galvanic corrosion.......surface potential. This is what drives a galvanic reaction,not the actual material.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That chart is a saltwater corrosion chart, bears no resemblance to freshwater.
> 
> You guys are missing the fundamental part to galvanic corrosion.......surface potential. This is what drives a galvanic reaction,not the actual material.


Pretty close







A few *links* here for anyone who wants to get into the details.

The differences in surface potential, also called electrode potential, between dissimilar materials in the presence of an electrolyte, can result in the sort of corrosion being discussed here. That includes galvanic and other categories of corrosion (as the result of immersion plating, for instance, though that can occur outside the presence of an electrolyte).

That said, found by way of Google (in italics), and modified for by me (plain text):

_*Deionized pure water*_ (and perhaps distilled water, if you will) _is a poor electrical conductor, having a resistivity of 18.2 million ohm-cm (18.2 megohm) and conductivity of 0.055 microsiemens. It is the amount of ionized substances (or salts) dissolved in the water which determines water's ability to conduct electricity._

Any water flowing through metal pipes can become ionized over time. In this sense, metal pipes include the metal in your blocks, radiators, and metal pipes if you use them. Additionally, while certain additives promise reductions in algae growth without influencing the conductivity of the liquid they're being added to, some are more effective than others, but none are perfect.

That's why it's a good practice to flush water cooling systems at regular intervals. Because regardless of the promises that are made and depending on a wide array of factors, YMMV can become YMWV.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Pretty close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few *links* here for anyone who wants to get into the details.
> 
> The differences in surface potential, also called electrode potential, between dissimilar materials in the presence of an electrolyte, can result in the sort of corrosion being discussed here. That includes galvanic and other categories of corrosion (as the result of immersion plating, for instance, though that can occur outside the presence of an electrolyte).
> 
> That said, found by way of Google (in italics), and modified for by me (plain text):
> 
> _*Deionized pure water*_ (and perhaps distilled water, if you will) _is a poor electrical conductor, having a resistivity of 18.2 million ohm-cm (18.2 megohm) and conductivity of 0.055 microsiemens. It is the amount of ionized substances (or salts) dissolved in the water which determines water's ability to conduct electricity._
> 
> Any water flowing through metal pipes can become ionized over time. In this sense, metal pipes include the metal in your blocks, radiators, and metal pipes if you use them. Additionally, while certain additives promise reductions in algae growth without influencing the conductivity of the liquid they're being added to, some are more effective than others, but none are perfect.
> 
> That's why it's a good practice to flush water cooling systems at regular intervals. Because regardless of the promises that are made and depending on a wide array of factors, YMMV can become YMWV.


You are late to the corrosion party fella,been saying this for years........

People get hung up on metals in their loop... and they should. However,the volume of said material in the loop has more relevance to reaction than just the presence of the material itself.
You want to use Alu/Copper/Silver/Dried bogey/Whatever together?.....Then find a sacrificial anode material you can live with.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are late to the corrosion party fella,been saying this for years........
> 
> People get hung up on metals in their loop... and they should. However,the volume of said material in the loop has more relevance to reaction than just the presence of the material itself.
> You want to use Alu/Copper/Silver/Dried bogey/Whatever together?.....Then find a sacrificial anode material you can live with.


Believe me, it makes sense to me. I've got a pickup truck that looks like some folks' blocks here


----------



## taowulf

I wish people would get their facts right on the McDonald's hot coffee case.

http://www.okbar.org/Portals/14/Public%20Speaking/mcdonaldsoutline.pdf


----------



## fast_fate

*S*oigné*3*








Just before final assembly


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I wish people would get their facts right on the McDonald's hot coffee case.
> 
> http://www.okbar.org/Portals/14/Public%20Speaking/mcdonaldsoutline.pdf


Interesting case. It does sound bizarre ... but there did sound like a history of creating a 'defective product'.

My favorate is this one ...

*Woman sues store for injury caused by own child:*

Kathleen Robertson of Austin, Texas was awarded $80,000 by a jury of her peers after breaking her ankle tripping over a toddler who was running inside a furniture store. The store owners were understandably surprised by the verdict, considering the running toddler was her own son.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Interesting case. It does sound bizarre ... but there did sound like a history of creating a 'defective product'.
> 
> My favorate is this one ...
> 
> *Woman sues store for injury caused by own child:*
> 
> Kathleen Robertson of Austin, Texas was awarded $80,000 by a jury of her peers after breaking her ankle tripping over a toddler who was running inside a furniture store. The store owners were understandably surprised by the verdict, considering the running toddler was her own son.


SNOPES: Stella Awards
*A bouquet of outrageous lawsuits demonstrates the need for tort reform?*


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> SNOPES: Stella Awards
> *A bouquet of outrageous lawsuits demonstrates the need for tort reform?*


I hate going off topic.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I hate going off topic.


Shouldn't you be letting ruffhi know that? All I did was point out that the information he posted has long since been debunked. Unless you were being sarcastic, of course


----------



## Mega Man

well that was fun, the points shown about the coffee case ar every one sided and dont show both sides of the story, just the one who burned herself.

the video was epicly false and skews far too much into politics. and please stop, dont get the mods involved.

the only thing i can say, without going against tos, there is far far far too many frivolous lawsuits, when you can sue god i do believe whether or not you believe in one you will admit attempting to sue him takes the crazy kake

back to the water cooling, - is there a new company yet to take alphacools place * ie we need a new water cooling company to bring some innovation ! *


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Shouldn't you be letting ruffhi know that? All I did was point out that the information he posted has long since been debunked. Unless you were being sarcastic, of course


I like the link you posted though.

Back on topic - Hey, water cooling is awesome, isn't it?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> back to the water cooling, - is there a new company yet to take alphacools place * ie we need a new water cooling company to bring some innovation ! *


What sort of crazy wish is that? In a culture where everyone copies everyone else and sells it on as their own product I can understand that there is very little innovation in the market.

I could list a heap of manufacturers that do copy things, but instead I'll try to list the few that I personally think are somewhat innovative.

Alphacool, for the same reason you said. They have really clever block designs, and their pump/block for the CPU and GPU are really interesting.
Swiftech, not so much these days but they do have some interesting products when it comes to combining pumps with radiators and blocks,
Mayhems, when it comes to fluids and to some degree tubing they have been quite innovative in the last few years.
Aquacomputer, their Vision blocks are quite interesting.
EKWB, for better or worse their new Fluid series kits actually make watercooling approachable to newcomers. I have my own stance on whether or not these kits should exist, but I can't deny that they bring prices down significantly.
I actually struggle to find anything else of worth, at any rate I don't think we have anyone who have brought us anything revolutionary as of late.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Watercool all day for me,so glad I have them sponsoring me now!!

Aquacomputer is the only other manufacturer I would support and Alphacool is just garbage......


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Watercool all day for me,so glad I have them sponsoring me now!!
> 
> Aquacomputer is the only other manufacturer I would support and Alphacool is just garbage......


Why the hate for Alpacool? is it the ridiculously dirty radiators?


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Watercool all day for me,so glad I have them sponsoring me now!!
> 
> Aquacomputer is the only other manufacturer I would support and Alphacool is just garbage......


I totally agree with that based on my own experiences! (AIO, fittings, silicon inserts, PETG-tubes...)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Why the hate for Alpacool? is it the ridiculously dirty radiators?


That and busted up rads....poor QC.....fan splitters that almost torched my SR2 which they wouldnt even consider looking into...even after a full electricians report....
Garbage company all round which is what you can expect from a company with Aquatuning heritage.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That and busted up rads....poor QC.....fan splitters that almost torched my SR2 which they wouldnt even consider looking into...even after a full electricians report....
> Garbage company all round which is what you can expect from a company with Aquatuning heritage.


I see... I haven't had any problems with them myself, but then again I haven't really bought all that much Alphacool stuff (just rads and fittings). They do have some interesting ideas though, so I would still say they are among few who actually try new things anymore. I totally agree with Watercool stuff though, they make seriously quality components.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see... I haven't had any problems with them myself, but then again I haven't really bought all that much Alphacool stuff (just rads and fittings). They do have some interesting ideas though, so I would still say they are among few who actually try new things anymore. I totally agree with Watercool stuff though, they make seriously quality components.


As it was this rig that was on fire.....you can understand how pissed i was.










Looking for the cable shots....


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As it was this rig that was on fire.....you can understand how pissed i was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for the cable shots....


I perfectly understand that position, I just haven't had any issues myself. Though that doesn't mean anyone else won't, so it's good to be vocal about issues like that.


----------



## emsj86

The issue and company actions or lack there of on there alphacool "new" d5 pump turned me off. I do like there rads though


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> What sort of crazy wish is that? In a culture where everyone copies everyone else and sells it on as their own product I can understand that there is very little innovation in the market.
> 
> I could list a heap of manufacturers that do copy things, but instead I'll try to list the few that I personally think are somewhat innovative.
> 
> Alphacool, for the same reason you said. They have really clever block designs, and their pump/block for the CPU and GPU are really interesting.
> Swiftech, not so much these days but they do have some interesting products when it comes to combining pumps with radiators and blocks,
> Mayhems, when it comes to fluids and to some degree tubing they have been quite innovative in the last few years.
> Aquacomputer, their Vision blocks are quite interesting.
> EKWB, for better or worse their new Fluid series kits actually make watercooling approachable to newcomers. I have my own stance on whether or not these kits should exist, but I can't deny that they bring prices down significantly.
> I actually struggle to find anything else of worth, at any rate I don't think we have anyone who have brought us anything revolutionary as of late.


Watercool. Best CPU/GPU blocks IMO with the only caveat being limited compatibility with aib GPUs. They also make a great reservior. Rads are due to be refreshed late this year, early next.

I think Phanteks gets an honorable mention as well.


----------



## inedenimadam

I am having an issue with my D5. It doesn't always start when I turn on my PC, it seems to lag 15-20 seconds after hitting the power button. I am completely in windows by the time it kicks. Any thoughts?


----------



## Papa Emeritus

The only Alphacool products that's been solid for me are their rads (after extensive cleaning ofc) I would never use their fittings, blocks etc.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Me too, I just couldn't justify the ridiculous difficulty and risks of hard tubing vs soft tubing just for the sake of aesthetics. In a hobby with very little margin for error I went with EDPM, ugly, but extremely reliable.


I plan to go back to soft tubing. The way I mess with computer parts, especially in the folder rig, I about done bothering with looks. I would do air, but crap trying to keep hardware cooled off with [email protected] and BOINC going full tilt 24/7 with ambient at 27C/80F without it being a noisy stinker. (Yeah, it is a bit toasty)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Watercool all day for me,so glad I have them sponsoring me now!!
> 
> Aquacomputer is the only other manufacturer I would support and Alphacool is just garbage......
> 
> 
> 
> Why the hate for Alpacool? is it the ridiculously dirty radiators?
Click to expand...

well, bneg has other reasons.

mine.

ignore the problems with the product, as if that was not bad enough.

look at the responses, then lack there of.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-pump-vpp755-review-of-noise-issues-and-problems/0_100

i am a fan of phanteks getting in the water cooling market. i like hte unique look of their fittings... however i will give them time to make sure they last, in this market. i hope they do ! i love competition
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> The issue and company actions or lack there of on there alphacool "new" d5 pump turned me off. I do like there rads though


it is not a d5 !!!!!

it is 100% there own in house junk ( for proof of junk please see above link )


----------



## emsj86

I like the new phanteks stuff. But the price is more than bits power. I don't see how they will sell at 20 a fitting


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see... I haven't had any problems with them myself, but then again I haven't really bought all that much Alphacool stuff (just rads and fittings). They do have some interesting ideas though, so I would still say they are among few who actually try new things anymore. I totally agree with Watercool stuff though, they make seriously quality components.
> 
> 
> 
> As it was this rig that was on fire.....you can understand how pissed i was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for the cable shots....
Click to expand...

You run to the kitchen for some mallows, chocolate and grahams B?









I keed of course. I certainly wouldn't expect that. Nor would I spect you to sit back in a trance (







) like a Minion.

I fully visualize this...







---







---







via email to their RMA dept. I really hope you were able to salvage your system. I remember when you were building it, I was simply inspired when you got it up an running. What a waste.










~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well, bneg has other reasons.
> 
> mine.
> 
> ignore the problems with the product, as if that was not bad enough.
> 
> look at the responses, then lack there of.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-pump-vpp755-review-of-noise-issues-and-problems/0_100
> 
> i am a fan of phanteks getting in the water cooling market. i like hte unique look of their fittings... however i will give them time to make sure they last, in this market. i hope they do ! i love competition
> it is not a d5 !!!!!
> 
> it is 100% there own in house junk ( for proof of junk please see above link )


Well, that settles it then. I have usually ordered from Aquatuning, but considering the mess that is shown in that thread I will look to local shops and ones in the UK, as well as other non AT European shops. It's sad, but I have always had the thought that they were not run all that well to start with, and the fact that the three of them are the same company was always somewhat in my mind.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well, that settles it then. *I have usually ordered from Aquatuning,* but considering the mess that is shown in that thread I will look to local shops and ones in the UK, as well as other non AT European shops. It's sad, but I have always had the thought that they were not run all that well to start with, and the fact that the three of them are the same company was always somewhat in my mind.


Some light reading on how to screw your customer base and the manufacturers they deal with....

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?226794-aquatuning-trademark-grab


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I like the new phanteks stuff. But the price is more than bits power. I don't see how they will sell at 20 a fitting


aw wow, i agree, i have not looked into it tbh i love xspc fittings.

eks are nice, but they are thin ( not saying too thin, - but in comparison to xspc fittings with are fatter- aesthetics speaking ) which i prefer price is nice too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well, that settles it then. *I have usually ordered from Aquatuning,* but considering the mess that is shown in that thread I will look to local shops and ones in the UK, as well as other non AT European shops. It's sad, but I have always had the thought that they were not run all that well to start with, and the fact that the three of them are the same company was always somewhat in my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> Some light reading on how to screw your customer base and the manufacturers they deal with....
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?226794-aquatuning-trademark-grab
Click to expand...

yea, the more i have researched the more i decided not to- as much as possible, unfortunately i have to for some random things i CAN NOT get anywhere else in the us.


----------



## ruffhi

Is this what they mean by corrosion?

My pc has been sitting idle recently with the loop drained. I top part of the loop out and found this in my monsoon econ fittings. I was running pure distilled water with no additive(s),


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Is this what they mean by corrosion?
> 
> My pc has been sitting idle recently with the loop drained. I top part of the loop out and found this in my monsoon econ fittings. I was running pure distilled water with no additive(s),


Do you have a silver kill coil? that can react with Nickel plating on some appliances, especially if the plating job is imperfect in some way.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Is this what they mean by corrosion?
> 
> My pc has been sitting idle recently with the loop drained. I top part of the loop out and found this in my monsoon econ fittings. I was running pure distilled water with no additive(s),


It certainly looks like something's amiss.

Some questions:

Did that come out of one of the builds in your sig that can be referenced?
How long was that PC sitting idly, and what other parts are used in your loop?
Did you do regular fluid changes? If so, how long between them?
If you flushed your loop in the past, did you add something like vinegar to it while doing so?
If you try to scrape some of that orange stuff off using your finger nail, does it come off easily (e.g., like built up accumulated gunk), or flake off like (more like metallic corrosion)?

Being specific/comprehensive should help.

*Link* to a post discussing somewhat similar issues.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Do you have a silver kill coil? that can react with Nickel plating on some appliances, especially if the plating job is imperfect in some way.


Yes and No. I had a Monsoon Silver Bullet Antimicrobial G1/4 Plug - Black Anodized for a while (out now but I haven't been running the loop). That said, I read somewhere that monsoon fittings are silver coated so they also chip in on the silver front.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Some questions:
> 
> Did that come out of one of the builds in your sig that can be referenced?
> How long was that PC sitting idly, and what other parts are used in your loop?
> Did you do regular fluid changes? If so, how long between them?
> 
> Being specific/comprehensive should help.



Yes. Liquorice Allsorts. Those two are the two fittings that run between the two radiators in the pedestal.
About 6 months. I did drain the loop ... but probably not fully. If there is standing water anywhere it would be at the bottom of the radiators in the pedestal ... right where those two fittings were. My drain is at the lowest point (below those fittings) but you can hear some water sloshing round in the radiators
I took the loop offline so much that I never ran the same liquid for more than a month ... more likely 3 weeks. I've been working on the loop to get the flow rate higher which has meant putting it all in and out of service.
I am going to check the CPU block and run the loop for a while without the PC connected to see what my filter catches.

Also ... I will be swapping out those two fittings.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Yes and No. I had a Monsoon Silver Bullet Antimicrobial G1/4 Plug - Black Anodized for a while (out now but I haven't been running the loop). That said, I read somewhere that monsoon fittings are silver coated so they also chip in on the silver front.
> 
> Yes. Liquorice Allsorts. Those two are the two fittings that run between the two radiators in the pedestal.
> About 6 months. I did drain the loop ... but probably not fully. If there is standing water anywhere it would be at the bottom of the radiators in the pedestal ... right where those two fittings were. My drain is at the lowest point (below those fittings) but you can hear some water sloshing round in the radiators
> I took the loop offline so much that I never ran the same liquid for more than a month ... more likely 3 weeks. I've been working on the loop to get the flow rate higher which has meant putting it all in and out of service.
> I am going to check the CPU block and run the loop for a while without the PC connected to see what my filter catches.
> 
> Also ... I will be swapping out those two fittings.


Yeah OK, that makes a lot of sense. That black pitting looks a lot like Silver-Nickel corrosion (IIRR Silver particulates which bond to the nickel are black).


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Is this what they mean by corrosion?
> 
> My pc has been sitting idle recently with the loop drained. I top part of the loop out and found this in my monsoon econ fittings. I was running pure distilled water with no additive(s),


It sure looks like it, but pictures are never the same as holding something in your hand when it comes to fine detail like corrosion.

I have found that corrosion of all parts is accelerated by leaving them wet and unused, exposed to air. Even the stainless steel in my D5 pumps will start to rust if not dried for storage.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would call that corrosion/rust, the antimicrobial and anticorrosion agents don't work if the loop isn't used/running. Also the silver is an antimicrobial agent not a non corrosive.


----------



## KCDC

Happy Independence Day!!

My best attempt at red white and blue with my LEDs


I wish camera phones did a better job photographing LEDs


----------



## inedenimadam

Scratch building a wall mount case, re-using some/most of my existing parts. Wouldn't mind opinions on finish. Wall Build PC


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would call that corrosion/rust, the antimicrobial and anticorrosion agents don't work if the loop isn't used/running. Also the silver is an antimicrobial agent not a non corrosive.


1- copper does not rust, the pic is too blurry to see the details ( sorry )

2) huh, it is water. water does not need to move to have the chemicals in water to work if they are anti corrosion in there, if it did, every fire system that has anti corrosion in it ( read P.G. ) would fail, as would every other system that does not run 24/7- chiller/boiler which usually are off for half the year - in places with 4 seasons..... besides that, iirc he said water .....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Happy Independence Day!!
> 
> My best attempt at red white and blue with my LEDs
> 
> 
> I wish camera phones did a better job photographing LEDs


yep, back at you, we made another year yay !


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1- copper does not rust, the pic is too blurry to see the details ( sorry )
> 
> 2) huh, it is water. water does not need to move to have the chemicals in water to work if they are anti corrosion in there, if it did, every fire system that has anti corrosion in it ( read P.G. ) would fail, as would every other system that does not run 24/7- chiller/boiler which usually are off for half the year - in places with 4 seasons..... besides that, iirc he said water .....
> yep, back at you, we made another year yay !


Only thing stated in the loop was the monsoon silver plug and "silver" coated fittings. No non corrosive agents are in it. Alot of metals can rust/corrode since my guess is that brass wasn't behind the coated/plated surface so when it decided to start to react with the water (no additives) we got to see that it started corroding under the plating, and yes a clearer photo would help and might want to dismantle blocks as well.


----------



## M-Sauce

I had a few issues with my Alphacool x-flow rads.

Yes, quite dirty inside. Lots of flushing to clean them out with hot distilled water and vinegar.

But my biggest beef was the ports. They where all painted black, in the threads! Why would you do that! I had to retap all of them since some would not accept plugs or fittings, or would allow small leaks. This led to having to re flush the rads to remove the black paint flakes.

I thought that was pretty crappy quality control. Unfortunately, for my planned config, their x-flow rads where the only ones with all the ports I needed. Next time I will just avoid them at all costs.


----------



## Radox-0

Finally got around to getting external kit sorted so moved to putting all the GPU's under water aswell. Annoyingly I had hopped to go parallel and put the CPU as the forth block off the 1080Ti's but seems flow was not too happy to split 4 ways, so was too low by the time it got to the GPU


----------



## hadesfactor

Wow amazing build







....I really love the whole chrome look....very sharp



Almost done with mine....few more parts to paint, then run the tubing and lights.....using the alphacool aurora LED's around the tubing but of course they only give you 30cm of cabling lol so I have to re-wire all of those then the lights around the case....the biggest pain was the cut out plate for the lightbox....alum was too thin for a jigsaw so dremel and file then paint and airbrush


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Wow amazing build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....I really love the whole chrome look....very sharp
> 
> Almost done with mine....few more parts to paint, then run the tubing and lights.....using the alphacool aurora LED's around the tubing but of course they only give you 30cm of cabling lol so I have to re-wire all of those then the lights around the case....the biggest pain was the cut out plate for the lightbox....alum was too thin for a jigsaw so dremel and file then paint and airbrush


Thanks bud







That build is looking great, lightbox looks neat, will be looking out for how those Alphacool Aurora fittings look!


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Thanks bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That build is looking great, lightbox looks neat, will be looking out for how those Alphacool Aurora fittings look!


Thanks buddy, me too cause if they look ****ty i'll have to drain the whole loop to get rid of them HA!....the sad thing is I already have ideas for another but dont think my wallet can handle it actually I know it cant lol but that's the name of the game lol.....I''ll say this though....next time prob going with a tube/res combo....I like the look of not showing the pumps, but it took about half a day running all the tubing down below, thank god I didn't do acrylic in the bottom and pretty much maxed out what I can hide down there..........think my next build will be a wall mounted TT case and x299 once it becomes stable....like a year from now.

I was thinking about cutting a piece of soft white plexi to match the cutout so it will soften the light but ill wait to see how it looks without it...I can always add it later


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Finally got around to getting external kit sorted so moved to putting all the GPU's under water aswell. Annoyingly I had hopped to go parallel and put the CPU as the forth block off the 1080Ti's but seems flow was not too happy to split 4 ways, so was too low by the time it got to the GPU


Too funny, I'm working on something similar right now, but I'm using a different case, glass tubing, and more shiny stuff. I have a couple pieces of that nickel plated brass tubing that I want to use for something. What's the best way to cut it?


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Too funny, I'm working on something similar right now, but I'm using a different case, glass tubing, and more shiny stuff. I have a couple pieces of that nickel plated brass tubing that I want to use for something. What's the best way to cut it?


http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/BitsPower-Metal-Tubing-Cutter-Tool_55985.html

I've used a normal cheap pipe cutting tool albeit with a Bitspower logo on it for a few builds pretty easily with Bitspower 12/10mm Nickel/brass tubing.

When i used it on Red a Blue metal tubing from Bitspower though it left marks on the tubing and took off some of the colour although once the collar was on the fitting it just about covered it up.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Too funny, I'm working on something similar right now, but I'm using a different case, glass tubing, and more shiny stuff. I have a couple pieces of that nickel plated brass tubing that I want to use for something. What's the best way to cut it?


you can use a a hack saw with a metal blade or a pipe-cutter like the one poster above except you can go to home depot and get a one that's more sturdy...but I can't say how well it does with brass but it cuts copper pretty well....or a metal wheel for a dremel, they all cut metal tubing...some cleaner then others


----------



## Mega Man

sorry guys, but he asked what the *best* tool was

i stick with my original answer 

or


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry guys, but he asked what the *best* tool was
> 
> i stick with my original answer


HA!


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Too funny, I'm working on something similar right now, but I'm using a different case, glass tubing, and more shiny stuff. I have a couple pieces of that nickel plated brass tubing that I want to use for something. What's the best way to cut it?


Khemist posted an example of one, I just used something similar, but slightly larger from local DIY store which cost a few £, worked a treat. Used it on copper tubing as above and a nickel plated brass tubing before when using alphacool's brass tubing for another build.


----------



## rolldog

That's what I thought! It's been a while since I used mine, and using it in the enclosed garage with no A/C in July really makes cutting this tubing a *****. You must cut quickly before passing out from heat exhaustion, then wake up and do another cut.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry guys, but he asked what the *best* tool was
> 
> i stick with my original answer
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> or


----------



## Pimphare

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Finally got around to getting external kit sorted so moved to putting all the GPU's under water aswell. Annoyingly I had hopped to go parallel and put the CPU as the forth block off the 1080Ti's but seems flow was not too happy to split 4 ways, so was too low by the time it got to the GPU







Wow... that is elegant.


----------



## Bogga

Here's my little place with my finished build... Had to remove the plexiglass covers since I managed to break one when I tried to reposition it











"Luckily" I can't spend to much time there since I have a new project starting straight away. Will do a build log as soon as I get some minor details sorted out


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wow... that is elegant.


Thanks bud







Having said that, it does have RGB and turning on those colours, then things just look outrageous with the light leeking out through every panel, everything buy elegant








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Here's my little place with my finished build... Had to remove the plexiglass covers since I managed to break one when I tried to reposition it


Love that case and build looks great. Been mulling over getting that case or not, no real need of course but the bug to just build something new is unreal


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Finally got around to getting external kit sorted so moved to putting all the GPU's under water aswell. Annoyingly I had hopped to go parallel and put the CPU as the forth block off the 1080Ti's but seems flow was not too happy to split 4 ways, so was too low by the time it got to the GPU


This is absolutely one of the best looking build i've ever seen. The Tou case is so rare and expensive! how did you get it?
It would be nice to see a pic with the window and PC off where you can only see the mirror and one with window and PC on


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> This is absolutely one of the best looking build i've ever seen. The Tou case is so rare and expensive! how did you get it?
> It would be nice to see a pic with the window and PC off where you can only see the mirror and one with window and PC on


Thanks bud







Picked case up a while back, when they were still being produced, fell in love with it on the spot so had to just get it. Does have its compromises such as airflow, lack of EATX support, dust filters etc, but love it.

Here is pic with PC off, so effectively case is just loads of angled mirrors at that point:


The pic in the spoiler I added yesterday is actually with the side panels all on. At night or when slightly darker the case is very transparent. During daytime to the eyes its also transparent, but the potato camera phone I have tends to pick up lots of reflections also. Basically the brighter you turn on the inside lights, the more you tend to see.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> This is absolutely one of the best looking build i've ever seen. The Tou case is so rare and expensive! how did you get it?
> It would be nice to see a pic with the window and PC off where you can only see the mirror and one with window and PC on


The build I'm working on right now is in a Tou 2.0 case. I have most of my parts in, but still waiting on my cables. I haven't been able to put as much time into it as I hoped since I bought a new house a month ago, and I'm still trying to get everything customized before I move in.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Thanks bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked case up a while back, when they were still being produced, fell in love with it on the spot so had to just get it. Does have its compromises such as airflow, lack of EATX support, dust filters etc, but love it.
> 
> Here is pic with PC off, so effectively case is just loads of angled mirrors at that point:
> 
> 
> The pic in the spoiler I added yesterday is actually with the side panels all on. At night or when slightly darker the case is very transparent. During daytime to the eyes its also transparent, but the potato camera phone I have tends to pick up lots of reflections also. Basically the brighter you turn on the inside lights, the more you tend to see.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing, it's really impressive, one of the best ever seen! great work!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Finally got around to getting external kit sorted so moved to putting all the GPU's under water aswell. Annoyingly I had hopped to go parallel and put the CPU as the forth block off the 1080Ti's but seems flow was not too happy to split 4 ways, so was too low by the time it got to the GPU


Great looking build. Miles better than the only other build I have seen with this case.









In reference to this highly sponsored tragedy.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Great looking build. Miles better than the only other build I have seen with this case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In reference to this highly sponsored tragedy.


that's Terry crews build done by jayz two cents right? Really bad looking!anyway i think that's the tou 2 case not the original tou shown in nyctgr pics


----------



## Ithanul

I have to say the old one got that industrial shiny look to it. I kind of like it.


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno, I actually like the look of TC's build. J2C isn't a modder an he freely admits that. So for what it is, it looks pretty nice.









TC wanted to do watercooled an that's what he got and the theme fits what he was looking for.









~Ceadder


----------



## jon666

I think I might have to go hard tubing before the November PLX. There will be blood, sweat, tears, and RGB. Is there a gold standard for hard tube fittings? Anything with a dull chrome, or carbon fiber look to them? Clear side panel will come before hand as well. Might have to jam a 360 rad in the bottom compartment of my case, new drill should get rid of them pesky rivets nicely.I'm thinking of taking a dremel to my side panel and striping it with plexiglass. Racing stripes increase your overclocking speeds don't ya know.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> that's Terry crews build done by jayz two cents right? Really bad looking!anyway i think that's the tou 2 case not the original tou shown in nyctgr pics


Yea it is. Hmm didnt even realize it was the originl tou case used by
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno, I actually like the look of TC's build. J2C isn't a modder an he freely admits that. So for what it is, it looks pretty nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TC wanted to do watercooled an that's what he got and the theme fits what he was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am not a modder either but his job was lazy to an extent and tacky looking imo. With all that sponserships on that build would of it been that hard to get someone to make a psu shroud? He literally riced out a pc case.


----------



## Chopper1591

Good morning (at least here it is) people,

Yesterday I've made an post in the Phanteks thread.
I kinda hoped for more replies (got 1







).

Can you people check my post?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/18130#post_26207478

Basically I am looking for tips to improve my water cooling efficiency.
I have a single loop with a 6700k and r9 290, cooled by an EK 420 and Alphacool 360 rad. But somehow I struggly to keep it below 15c Delta-T.

My post below shows some more info with screenshots of idle temps and one after 8 runs of IBT on Very high.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/18130#post_26207572


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good morning people,
> I am looking for tips to improve my water cooling efficiency.


You should check the actual temperature of the air going into both radiators to get more accurate readings.

For actual improvements, start by removing the grills on your bottom fans, they do nothing but impede airflow. You could also add more radiators, but that just seems exessive to me, your temps are pretty good already.

That leaves your blocks and and TIM, the easiest and cheapest solution would to try better TIM's and try to improve contact between to block and IHS/die.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You should check the actual temperature of the air going into both radiators to get more accurate readings.
> 
> For actual improvements, start by removing the grills on your bottom fans, they do nothing but impede airflow. You could also add more radiators, but that just seems exessive to me, your temps are pretty good already.
> 
> That leaves your blocks and and TIM, the easiest and cheapest solution would to try better TIM's and try to improve contact between to block and IHS/die.


Thank you for thinking with me.
I should've given more information.

There are many variables, I agree.
Removing the bottom filters will probably help the most yes, although it is a pain to remove the dust then.

When I do rebuild the loop I will add a temp sensor or two so I can see the air in temp. You are right that I can't make calculations without proper info.

And, true. More rad space is a no go (I don't have much room left anyway haha.
My temps are okay, it's just that I think I might be able to do better with the rad space I have to only cool a single cpu and gpu.

Tim is actually pretty good. I have Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on both the cpu and gpu. Application is pretty spot on. Have re-done the cpu a couple of times but temps are with error of margin from each other.
Changing the TIM under the IHS will probably help a decent amount. I am thinking about doing that also.
VRM on my gpu are excellent, I have Fujipoly Ultra Extreme on there. Big difference.

Its really only the heat dissipation of the radiators that I'm looking to increase.
Sure, I can up the fan speed.... but the reason for more rad space was me wanting to run lower speed fans.

Do you think it is good idea to make the top radiator intake also?
I doubt that is a good idea as I have bottom, front and side as intake already.


----------



## Jsunn

Just a couple of pics of my completed rig. I posted more pics in my build log (see signature and in the Lian-Li owners thread.) I wanted to share in this one.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> Just a couple of pics of my completed rig. I posted more pics in my build log (see signature and in the Lian-Li owners thread.) I wanted to share in this one.


wao this is incredible, you did the impossible....making EPDM tubing look classy.


----------



## Jsunn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> wao this is incredible, you did the impossible....making EPDM tubing look classy.


Ha, thanks!


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> Just a couple of pics of my completed rig. I posted more pics in my build log (see signature and in the Lian-Li owners thread.) I wanted to share in this one.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yup, agree with above comment, that tubing is done really nice in this build! Love it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno, I actually like the look of TC's build. J2C isn't a modder an he freely admits that. So for what it is, it looks pretty nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TC wanted to do watercooled an that's what he got and the theme fits what he was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yup agree, while the end result is not my exact cup of tea (not that I even like tea!) it fits the old spice theme he was doing.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> Just a couple of pics of my completed rig.


Nice build! Is that a custom reservoir? Where did you get it?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> Nice build! Is that a custom reservoir? Where did you get it?


It's the EK with the older top. Threads on the outside.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> It's the EK with the older top. Threads on the outside.


Sorry I meant behind the reservoir, that black and red grid, what's that?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> Sorry I meant behind the reservoir, that black and red grid, what's that?


Looks like a fan/rad grille. A pretty snazzy one at that, perhaps custom?

Well done @Jsunn, looks really good overall. I actually like the badges which is rare so extra points there







Is there a reason you didn't center the Nvidia one?


----------



## DarthBaggins

The more and more Lian Li cases I see, the more I want to build in one (PC-06SX). great work on the PC-011(ROG)


----------



## Revan654

a Quick Question for anyone who has worked with Glass tubing.

1. What best speed to cut glass with a Dremel? I believe mine has setting of 15,000 & 35,000.
2. Is it possible to bend tubing with a Propane torch? or would I need something that would produce a much hotter flame?


----------



## Jyve

Can see a tube run to it. Not sure how that case is laid out but looks like maybe another rad with a custom grill and red led fans.


----------



## Jsunn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Looks like a fan/rad grille. A pretty snazzy one at that, perhaps custom?
> 
> Well done @Jsunn, looks really good overall. I actually like the badges which is rare so extra points there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a reason you didn't center the Nvidia one?


Thanks @0ldChicken! the top radiator had a pretty bad scratch in the paint. The nVidia stick is covering it. I decided to move it to the left to make it obvious it wasn't centered, instead of just a little as to where someone might think I just screwed up. 

I tried to be subtle with the badges.


----------



## 10tunhammer




----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10tunhammer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm confused...









I thought dual loops but it appears to be a single loop... so second res is for show or???

I'd love to see a better view of the loop(s) on that one.


----------



## AstroSky

My build is a testament that you dont have to spend over 300 dollars to have a full custom loop that preforms just as expected while all costing less than what most people spend.

I did a lot of researching before i attempted this and expected every part. All the watercooling you see costed me 150 dollars. The cpu block,fittings,pump.res.fluid and tubing. The only thing that was not planned apart from the build was the mod i made to turn my evga hybrid spliced into the loop. it works. I got better temps. The whole loop is pure copper aside from the nickle coating on the fittings. i saved money and i got all the benefits of watercooling. . If anyone is interested about trying aliexpress and ebay for chinese watercooling parts. I got all the info you need. \

(side note) the ryzen logo you see was custom made by a friend. also the fans are from china too. I think i could get better cooling from the rad if i had real static pressure fans. these fans are quite weak but it manages to keep my cpu at max 50c and my evga 1080 ti max 44c.

Tell me what ya think? i understand mostly the reason for water cooling is looks. I think it fits the bill.


----------



## Deeptek

Its all personal preference. Some people like to spend money for quality parts over their cheaper counterparts. Not to say the cheaper don't work the same in some cases but I think you get what im saying.

Watercooling for looks is a crock of crap that this wave of builders think is why people do it. Its all about performance and that ties in with the brand of parts that you buy.


----------



## AstroSky

well maybe its a balance of looks and cooling. I ended up getting good temps after all this and a pretty sick loop.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know my first loop I went secondhand on a majority of my parts to cut costs as much as I could. Worked great and was a great learning experience, but alot of the higher priced blocks are worth the money.


----------



## AstroSky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know my first loop I went secondhand on a majority of my parts to cut costs as much as I could. Worked great and was a great learning experience, but alot of the higher priced blocks are worth the money.


well the cpu block from what i looked into is not the best. I bet i could could at least get 5 degrees less with a better block,. but im sure this can hold me over till i can get the funds again.


----------



## Deeptek

Hey man congrats on the first loop for sure. You hit two birds with one stone!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> well the cpu block from what i looked into is not the best. I bet i could could at least get 5 degrees less with a better block,. but im sure this can hold me over till i can get the funds again.


I would say if it's fitting your needs and keeping your components cool with good OC's then just leave it alone till you add or swap a component out


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> a Quick Question for anyone who has worked with Glass tubing.
> 
> 1. What best speed to cut glass with a Dremel? I believe mine has setting of 15,000 & 35,000.
> 2. Is it possible to bend tubing with a Propane torch? or would I need something that would produce a much hotter flame?


I'm working on a build with 16mm glass tubing, but since I'm still modding my Tou 2.0 (adding even more mirrors) and haven't cut any glass yet, my input may not qualify.

What I'm planning to do it use a dremel, with the diamond blade, and have it setup so I can rotate the tubing without it moving at a lower RMP, and just keep turning and scoring gradually until it either cuts through or you can snap it. I'm probably going to keep scoring it gradually getting deeper until it cuts through, but I've seen some people snap it clean once it's scored at least halfway through. I'd like to know how it turns out.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> My build is a testament that you dont have to spend over 300 dollars to have a full custom loop that preforms just as expected while all costing less than what most people spend.
> 
> I did a lot of researching before i attempted this and expected every part. All the watercooling you see costed me 150 dollars. The cpu block,fittings,pump.res.fluid and tubing. The only thing that was not planned apart from the build was the mod i made to turn my evga hybrid spliced into the loop. it works. I got better temps. The whole loop is pure copper aside from the nickle coating on the fittings. i saved money and i got all the benefits of watercooling. . If anyone is interested about trying aliexpress and ebay for chinese watercooling parts. I got all the info you need. \
> 
> (side note) the ryzen logo you see was custom made by a friend. also the fans are from china too. I think i could get better cooling from the rad if i had real static pressure fans. these fans are quite weak but it manages to keep my cpu at max 50c and my evga 1080 ti max 44c.
> 
> Tell me what ya think? i understand mostly the reason for water cooling is looks. I think it fits the bill.


Too much red for me


----------



## Chicken Patty

My Ryzen build as it sits right now. As much as I love this case/setup, I've always been a fan of full tower cases, so tomorrow I receive my Corsair Obsidian 900D and I'll be putting this setup in it. Pics to follow.


----------



## AstroSky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Too much red for me


haha sorry.

i love red


----------



## AstroSky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> 
> My Ryzen build as it sits right now. As much as I love this case/setup, I've always been a fan of full tower cases, so tomorrow I receive my Corsair Obsidian 900D and I'll be putting this setup in it. Pics to follow.


hey i love it. thats the new ek watercooling kit right?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Thank you! Yes, it is the EK P280 water cooling kit. Great kit, and it performs very good!


----------



## AstroSky

:thumbh cool. White matches that well. Very subtle.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Yes, the case is all black and white so I thought it looked great. The first motherboard I had matched even better, it was the asRock X370 Taichi, which was all black and white, but I had two of those fail back to back, so I switched to the Crosshair VI from Asus and so far I love it. I just set the RGB's to white so it can match.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> a Quick Question for anyone who has worked with Glass tubing.
> 
> 1. What best speed to cut glass with a Dremel? I believe mine has setting of 15,000 & 35,000.


I wouldn't use a dremel at all, just score it with a glass cutter, apply some moisture to the score, and snap it. Way quicker and no glass dust everywhere.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> a Quick Question for anyone who has worked with Glass tubing.
> 
> 1. What best speed to cut glass with a Dremel? I believe mine has setting of 15,000 & 35,000.
> 2. Is it possible to bend tubing with a Propane torch? or would I need something that would produce a much hotter flame?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1623009/build-log-parvum-r1-0-matx-i7-7700k-evga-1080-sc-sli-borosilicate-tubing-custom-cooling-loop/180#post_26149355 check this guy out and his build log. He will have all the answers and has bent glass. I e been looking into it. And I believe it can be done but will take practice.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1623009/build-log-parvum-r1-0-matx-i7-7700k-evga-1080-sc-sli-borosilicate-tubing-custom-cooling-loop/180#post_26149355 check this guy out and his build log. He will have all the answers and has bent glass. I e been looking into it. And I believe it can be done but will take practice.


The tubing can be bent. There are pre-bent pieces available. The process is not really DIY friendly or practical though. You need extreme temperatures and some way to stop it simply folding rather than bending.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> The tubing can be bent. There are pre-bent pieces available. The process is not really DIY friendly or practical though. You need extreme temperatures and some way to stop it simply folding rather than bending.


The problem is there sold out everywhere(16mm OD). I'm waiting on Mayhem or some store in the US to get more stock(Have no interest in using AlphaCool tubing after the mess with there out tubing).


----------



## Chicken Patty

Changed cases to the Obsidian 900D. Just gotta order some wiring for the front case fans.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> 
> Changed cases to the Obsidian 900D. Just gotta order some wiring for the front case fans.


Nice! I'm just at the final stages of my new 900d build...doing the leak test now....my Aquaero is being funky tho and might have to send it back










1st time using acrylic...def a learning curve but managed to get them all straight lol


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Nice! I'm just at the final stages of my new 900d build...doing the leak test now....my Aquaero is being funky tho and might have to send it back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1st time using acrylic...def a learning curve but managed to get them all straight lol


Looks good! I gotta do something like why you did to divide the bottom half from the top, would look so much better that way in my opinion. But I just got the case yesterday, little by little. Hopefully your rig will be fine and no RMA needed. Keeping my fingers crossed for you!


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> 
> Looks good! I gotta do something like why you did to divide the bottom half from the top, would look so much better that way in my opinion. But I just got the case yesterday, little by little. Hopefully your rig will be fine and no RMA needed. Keeping my fingers crossed for you!


Because the bottom half has all the cables and the pumps not to mention its devided with a light box and the corsair design I cut out of sheet alum....looks much cleaner this way and also cuts down the noise from the pumps....not to mention I like the look of the tube going through the mid-plate. I didn't want "just a case" my 1st build in a while wanted to go above and beyond


----------



## dwolvin

Because you mentioned your Aquaero being problematic, I imagine.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Because you mentioned your Aquaero being problematic, I imagine.


HAHA yeah sorry I wrote that last night and Im barely awake lol....the hard reset fixed that issue lol


----------



## dwolvin

Ha!

I wish I could pretend I had not idea what you were talking about...


----------



## hadesfactor

Here's a question for everyone....is there really an adverse affect when a res has a cyclone in it. Both of my res'es are Monsoon MMRS so they do not come with the anti-cyclone adapters that EK and others come with. I have a couple of the Bitspower adapters coming but I'd have to remove a lot of work etc and I know right now my pumps are running at 100% so the power is extreme and it might stifle the cyclone once I drop it to 60%. I have noticed there are more air bubbles I would like and I'm guessing that is in direct correlation with the cyclone effect


----------



## dwolvin

If the bubbles can get toward the bottom of the res, yea you need something. The anti-cyclone shilds is just to keep to tornado affect small enough that the air in you loop has a chance to get out of the flow. Where is the return line entering the res?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> If the bubbles can get toward the bottom of the res, yea you need something. The anti-cyclone shilds is just to keep to tornado affect small enough that the air in you loop has a chance to get out of the flow. Where is the return line entering the res?


1 Res has the return line at the bottom and the other has it on top....as you can guess the return on top has more bubbles forming.....luckily like I said this is still in the leak testing phase so if I have to remove the res and fittings I will....the pic I posted in the previous page shows the exact placement


----------



## Mega Man

Only half true. Monsoon does make them. Mmrs are modular - you can buy complete res. But afaik the distributors are putting them together- not monsoon.

Point being you have to piece your res together - you can buy the anti cyclone as well.

The d5 pump to res adapters have it built in.

You can also use an "aqua pipe" ( bitspowers name for it ) and get your return below your top water line depending on the size of the res


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Only half true. Monsoon does make them. Mmrs are modular - you can buy complete res. But afaik the distributors are putting them together- not monsoon.
> 
> Point being you have to piece your res together - you can buy the anti cyclone as well.
> 
> The d5 pump to res adapters have it built in.
> 
> You can also use an "aqua pipe" ( bitspowers name for it ) and get your return below your top water line depending on the size of the res


I'm pretty sure I can get the fill line at the top of the in flow there is some room. I didn't notice any monsoon adapters but I was also word searching in PPCS for cyclone lol....and yeah I purchased the parts and assembled myself...no need to pay someone money to do something I can do not to mention I wanted it a certain way









Edit: I just found the monsoon ones I skipped passed it twice lol....and I could spent $5 instead of 15 and I don't even know if the bitspower ones will fit lol...they should either way I'll have to disassemble the res portion....I suppose I can also make an "aqua-pipe" as well but that will only fix 1/3 of the issue


----------



## 10tunhammer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I'm confused...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought dual loops but it appears to be a single loop... so second res is for show or???
> 
> I'd love to see a better view of the loop(s) on that one.


Second res is to give the coolant more time to cool before it goes back to the processor . This method dropped the temp from 32c down to 23c running


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Only half true. Monsoon does make them. Mmrs are modular - you can buy complete res. But afaik the distributors are putting them together- not monsoon.
> 
> Point being you have to piece your res together - you can buy the anti cyclone as well.
> 
> The d5 pump to res adapters have it built in.
> 
> You can also use an "aqua pipe" ( bitspowers name for it ) and get your return below your top water line depending on the size of the res
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure I can get the fill line at the top of the in flow there is some room. I didn't notice any monsoon adapters but I was also word searching in PPCS for cyclone lol....and yeah I purchased the parts and assembled myself...no need to pay someone money to do something I can do not to mention I wanted it a certain way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I just found the monsoon ones I skipped passed it twice lol....and I could spent $5 instead of 15 and I don't even know if the bitspower ones will fit lol...they should either way I'll have to disassemble the res portion....I suppose I can also make an "aqua-pipe" as well but that will only fix 1/3 of the issue
Click to expand...

white

Black


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Because the bottom half has all the cables and the pumps not to mention its devided with a light box and the corsair design I cut out of sheet alum....looks much cleaner this way and also cuts down the noise from the pumps....not to mention I like the look of the tube going through the mid-plate. I didn't want "just a case" my 1st build in a while wanted to go above and beyond


I agree. It looks great. In my case I don't know if I will put my pumps in the lower have, as I really like keeping the HDD's down there, but even then having the case divided will still clean up the look a lot in my eyes.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> 
> I agree. It looks great. In my case I don't know if I will put my pumps in the lower have, as I really like keeping the HDD's down there, but even then having the case divided will still clean up the look a lot in my eyes.


ColdZero makes the light box I got as well as they make full and half sized mid-plates....you should check them out...I think their half-sized still lets you use the HDD cages while separating them

http://www.coldzero.eu/

And honestly...next time around I prob wont separate my pumps....it was a hassle to say the least...looks sharp but a pain trying to cram 2 pumps, all the cables and running the tube underneath lol but I was determined lol....had to swap out my pass-through's cause the EK ones weren't long enough but the alphacool ones I got had a little different dimensions and I left no play so the fitting were right up against each other in the bottom. Unless my next build is in a caselabs and I have a little more room lol

And wait for it.....the biggest noob mistake to date.....trying to finish installing the bottom rad at 3am and forgot to plug 2 of the ports....soooooo yeah when I filled that loop......1/2 gal of water on my table lol


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> white
> 
> Black


Yeah Yeah rub it in lol









OF course by the time I found them my package shipped from PPCS already lol


----------



## hadesfactor

I think I was just looking for something bigger and more like a fitting so I passed right by them lol


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> ColdZero makes the light box I got as well as they make full and half sized mid-plates....you should check them out...I think their half-sized still lets you use the HDD cages while separating them
> 
> http://www.coldzero.eu/
> 
> And honestly...next time around I prob wont separate my pumps....it was a hassle to say the least...looks sharp but a pain trying to cram 2 pumps, all the cables and running the tube underneath lol but I was determined lol....had to swap out my pass-through's cause the EK ones weren't long enough but the alphacool ones I got had a little different dimensions and I left no play so the fitting were right up against each other in the bottom. Unless my next build is in a caselabs and I have a little more room lol
> 
> And wait for it.....the biggest noob mistake to date.....trying to finish installing the bottom rad at 3am and forgot to plug 2 of the ports....soooooo yeah when I filled that loop......1/2 gal of water on my table lol


Thanks for the link. I will definitely look into this asap as I'd like to get it done soon. Ordered some sleeving supplies from MDPC to tidy up the back side of the case, and the front panel wiring. Loving the build so far! ...and we have all made noob mistakes, it happens. I finished at 2am last night putting everything in order. Luckily it all worked haha.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> 
> Thanks for the link. I will definitely look into this asap as I'd like to get it done soon. Ordered some sleeving supplies from MDPC to tidy up the back side of the case, and the front panel wiring. Loving the build so far! ...and we have all made noob mistakes, it happens. I finished at 2am last night putting everything in order. Luckily it all worked haha.


That's awesome! cant wait to see the final product


----------



## Chicken Patty

Thanks bud!














I'll take some pictures and post them up for sure!


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Just wanted to share my recent Phanteks Primo Ultimate build
> 2x480mm, 1x360, 1x 240, 1x120mm, 2 D5 Pumps in series


I just bought that same case
I was wonder why you didnt put a 480 on top? I bought 3 rads from aquatuning. Alpha cool 1 480x30mm on top. 1 240x46mm for the front and 1 360x86mm monsta for the bottom. Do you think i should get a second pump/res combo since i only got 1 pump and 1 res for my setup.i see you have 1 gpu. I have 2 gpu's and my loop will include both both gpu's and cpu do you think i need another pump res?? Also i am doing a push/pull for the top and bottom rads? Are you getting good temps with your setup? I will be putting mine together this weekend and would appreciate any advise you could give me since you have the case i will be. Thanks


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10tunhammer*
> 
> Second res is to give the coolant more time to cool before it goes back to the processor . This method dropped the temp from 32c down to 23c running










can you advise where this 9c reading drop noticed, is it in the water? or the GPU block ? or the CPU block?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10tunhammer*
> 
> Second res is to give the coolant more time to cool before it goes back to the processor . This method dropped the temp from 32c down to 23c running


Yeah, if you can get more of a drop with a reservoir than you can with another radiator... this would be news indeed! However, I'm pretty sure it would also violate some thermodynamic laws and get the science cops called on ya.









No matter what you do the entire loop will achieve equilibrium under load... so I'd be interested in that testing methodology myself.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Here's a question for everyone....is there really an adverse affect when a res has a cyclone in it. Both of my res'es are Monsoon MMRS so they do not come with the anti-cyclone adapters that EK and others come with. I have a couple of the Bitspower adapters coming but I'd have to remove a lot of work etc and I know right now my pumps are running at 100% so the power is extreme and it might stifle the cyclone once I drop it to 60%. I have noticed there are more air bubbles I would like and I'm guessing that is in direct correlation with the cyclone effect


The problem with vortexing is that if it's bad enough and extends down to the pump inlet then the pump instantly ingests a large volume of air and will actually stop moving water. It is then air locked and will continue to spin away madly without moving coolant through the system.

In a less severe case the loop will be filled with lots of air.

Severe vortexes rely on very high flow rate and/or a small volume res. Without one of these the vortex can't form. Most systems with normal flow rates are pretty vortex proof without any inserts or other countermeasures.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> still waiting for the 90 degree fitting and extender, but in the meantime i have installed a barrow rgb fan connected to the led strip and have temporary fixed the kink. I think i will order anothe barrow rgb fan to replace the white enermax cluster on top


Finally got some Barrow 90 degree fitting and an extender (EK was too expensive), for fixing the kink (see images of my previous post).
I also got a glass/magnesium-silver flow meter, i was thinking to place it between the GPU and the 120mm rad (near the kink), what do you guys think ? Better at the bottom tube?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Severe vortexes rely on very high flow rate and/or a small volume res. Without one of these the vortex can't form. Most systems with normal flow rates are pretty vortex proof without any inserts or other countermeasures.


Well ... unless the design of your reservoir has the return port bringing water in at 90° and feeding the vortex ...


----------



## AstroSky

Hey so i need help on figuring out my loop.

im running copper block and copper gpu block. one 360 copper rad and one 280 aluminium rad (the alunimium rad is isolated from the case and is not electrically connected in anyway and i have anti corrosion fluid aka ek cryofluid) any ways my cpu is overclock to 3.9 ghz ryzen 1700 at 1.3 volts and the max temp i see is 58c and the gpu the max i get is 41 c on the core and the gpu is the gtx 1080 ti. Are these temps good or bad? how could i improve these temps. I understand none of these temps are bad but i really dont get why all these rads i have are not cooling enough. Figured since i added the 280 rad that it would help over all but im not sure if its enough. I want the cpu to be at least 40 c max and i cant seem to get there. Maybe its how i have the tubing runs set up.

The cpu block goes like this. the pump goes into the cpu block. the out goes into the 280 rad which goes out into the gpu in which goes out into the 360 rad which goes out into the res which goes out into the pump and it repeats. I figured cooling the cpu first with the 280 then having lower temp water going into the gpu which is then cooled by the 360 rad would result with lower temps over all. I mean it is a improvement over what i used to have with just an aio but still,. i need better temps to feel satisfied

idle temps are good though. cpu idles around 25 to 31 and gpu idles 32 sometimes 35


----------



## AstroSky

It could be the thermal paste im using. was thinking about thermal grizzly metal paste to really make sure im getting the most from my copper blocks. of course all that does is make heat transfer better and that might even result in higher water temps or maybe it will push it just enough to optimize my rad setups cooling potential. One concern i have is the corrosion factor of my rads and blocks butt iv done research and apparently as long as the rad is not touching the pc case and is not screwed in with screws or anything connected to the rest of the loop and isolated with zip ties and rubber it should solve the galvanic corrosion problem. Plus with the anti corrosion stuff i have it would help even more. I do plan on changing the fluid out every few months. i only used distilled water and cryofluid


----------



## DarthBaggins

I use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaught/Hydronaught and recommend that to anyone. Also you need to pull the Aluminum rad out of the loop as it will cause issues with the other metals. Also make sure your cpu block is tightened down enough to ensure proper heat transfer. I know at 4.7 on my 5930k my max loaded temp was 71c (which is still more than safe), but on Ryzen not 100% on its thermal limits and safe zones


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> The problem with vortexing is that if it's bad enough and extends down to the pump inlet then the pump instantly ingests a large volume of air and will actually stop moving water. It is then air locked and will continue to spin away madly without moving coolant through the system.
> 
> In a less severe case the loop will be filled with lots of air.
> 
> Severe vortexes rely on very high flow rate and/or a small volume res. Without one of these the vortex can't form. Most systems with normal flow rates are pretty vortex proof without any inserts or other countermeasures.


Yeah right now there is a pretty big vortex but that is also do to the pumps being run at 100% right now....as I said its just in the leak testing phase so my mobo doesnt have any power going to it right now. I know once I drop the pumps to 60% the vortex will drop considerably but when I drain the distilled I am going to add the anti-vortex inserts before I add the coolant. It sucks this was the one thing I didn't consider lol and I hate to remove the fittings but oh well....and yeah the bottom of the vortex is indeed being pulled through the inlet....since its a dual loop design and the pumps have plenty of headroom the vortices are even more pronounced im guessing

I ended up getting both the monsoon and the bitspower I'll see which one works better with the monsoon res


----------



## AstroSky

right on about pulling it out. i will replace it soon enough. I just dont trust it atm but that would mean more temps for me if i do atm. If i use it temporary for now how long do you think i might have till it all breaks lol im going to get a 240 copper rad and just replace it so i wont have that concern anymore soon.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I just bought that same case
> I was wonder why you didnt put a 480 on top? I bought 3 rads from aquatuning. Alpha cool 1 480x30mm on top. 1 240x46mm for the front and 1 360x86mm monsta for the bottom. Do you think i should get a second pump/res combo since i only got 1 pump and 1 res for my setup.i see you have 1 gpu. I have 2 gpu's and my loop will include both both gpu's and cpu do you think i need another pump res?? Also i am doing a push/pull for the top and bottom rads? Are you getting good temps with your setup? I will be putting mine together this weekend and would appreciate any advise you could give me since you have the case i will be. Thanks


Its been updated a bit since I cleaned the loop up for better efficiency.




I got rid of the bottom radiator sandwich. It dropped peak performance at 2200RPM by 2C but it increased low RPM performance by 4C so it was a worthwhile tradeoff.

My top rad was a 480mm UT60, I recently put it in Push-Pull. I'm running 2 D5 pumps, one in the combo res and the other next to PSU. Its more for redundancy reasons for me but I'd imagine you'd be looking at another pump depending on your CPU block.

The only criteria I had when I built my loop was I needed the 480mm rad to be no more than 127mm wide otherwise it would not fit in the bottom compartment. Otherwise, I would've gone with the EK XE.

As for performance, I'm getting about 24C fluid temps with 20C ambient with the current setup 600W total loading and fans to 1200RPM. This translates to 34C GPU temps and 65C CPU temps.

What I've learnt overall:

1. The bottom rad has a strict 127mm width requirement unless you are willing to remove the support panel, this means if you run 360mm this limitation doesn't exist. In hindsight, its better to go thick bottom 360mm and 240mm thin front than what I did with 480mm bottom thick and 120mm front medium. This is because access to maintain the 360mm rad is much much easier than trying to move a monstrous 480mm rad, once the 480 is installed, you're not altering it at all.

2. The side HDD cage 240 rad is much more optimal to be a low FPI 54mm rad because there isn't any space to push pull.

3. Its worthwhile to remove the HDD cage, 5.25in bay and side support panel. You can put a 360mm thin rad in that space and bolt it using L brackets.

4. Go with a shorter Reservoir than mine, you will less likely impinge on the 140mm rear exaust fan.

5. My setup is a real pain to bleed air. Be prepared to flip the case and stuff, the top rad takes forever to get the air out. I'm still getting bubbles even 2 weeks later lol.

Let me see, your setup should translate to roughly (assuming 900W heat load) 30C Fluid temps, 20C ambient, 1200RPM. GPU temps are expected to be maybe 40-45C, CPU temps are extremely difficult to predict due lots of variables. Though your flow is almost only barely enough depending on your tubing length. My simulation says you are expected to push 1GPM at max pump speed on a D5 if your GPUs are in serial but you should be OK @ 1.3GPM if they are in parallel.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> right on about pulling it out. i will replace it soon enough. I just dont trust it atm but that would mean more temps for me if i do atm. If i use it temporary for now how long do you think i might have till it all breaks lol im going to get a 240 copper rad and just replace it so i wont have that concern anymore soon.


If I was in Atlanta if ship you one of my Swiftech 240's. But I'd say time of impending Doom is unknown so I'd be looking now for an inexpensive copper based rad.


----------



## AstroSky

ayeee that would be really cool if you did. But yeah now you got me worried 0-0. LOL


----------



## looniam

i'm by far no galvanic corrosion expert but i don't think a SHORT amount of time (a week maybe two?) will cause irreparable harm. however kind in mind the longer of a short time, the more thorough the cleaning.

like tear everything apart and use a toothbrush and ketchup to scrub and vinegar for a rinse then a few liters of distilled for rinsing/flushing. there are products on the market but i like using things i find in the kitchen. i found it never hurts to make a sandwich when i'm in there.


----------



## AstroSky

even though my block was quite cheap (20 dollars) and its from china. Its actually a good buy. Its all copper. Built like a tank and seems to cool just fine. heck even my rad is from china the copper one at least. but its thin and i dont think it has much cooling potential over all. im not sure how you optimize rad setups for better cooling. its put at the top of the case to make sure its always getting fresh air. But i do think getting some metal thermal paste would help a ton. Im scared it might **** my pc up though.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Poor shot but...


Have to test to see if it works


----------



## AstroSky

My vrms are really hot atm with this watercooling. Everything else is fine its just the power temps. im at 50 c while gaming. i figured the backplate would keep them cool but nope.


----------



## 10tunhammer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrjSan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you advise where this 9c reading drop noticed, is it in the water? or the GPU block ? or the CPU block?


I have a temp gauge attached to the loop right before the cpu , because of the extra res it takes the coolant longer to go through the loop so because of this its tunning cooler.. i also moniter the internal temp of the cpu wich also dropped in temp. All i can say is it was running in the 30s but after adding the extra res and replumbing the loop its now in the 20s.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

better shots, on to testing!


----------



## Streetdragon

Has the aorus VRM-Temp sensores? if no i would be carful with overclocking.

For my taste this kind of Block is nice for the GPU but everything else is cooking with higher clocks. even with a fan infront of it.

Why didnt you bought a fullcover block from EK for the Aorus?


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> My vrms are really hot atm with this watercooling. Everything else is fine its just the power temps. im at 50 c while gaming. i figured the backplate would keep them cool but nope.


backplates are just for aesthetics, nothing to do with cooling power ,you will find dozens of reviews proving that


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Has the aorus VRM-Temp sensores? if no i would be carful with overclocking.
> 
> For my taste this kind of Block is nice for the GPU but everything else is cooking with higher clocks. even with a fan infront of it.
> 
> Why didnt you bought a fullcover block from EK for the Aorus?


sponsored and EK are bit naff looking for their blocks and like this have to fiddle around with getting the stock backplate to work... now the Phanteks block!!!!! that is an art-craft . Have in on my Strix blocks and is just better then all the others IMO bar heat killer .

used these blocks with a few others and last G1 1080 hit 2.1Ghz on water just fine . Alphacools backplate design actually works and draws so much heat away from the back its hot to touch in some places







but again, just looks ugly .
Key is to remount the gpu block to the alumin block with some decent paste and good tightening pattern

Also EK having issues with some Aorus blocks not fitting the cards right


----------



## lexlutha111384

Alright guys. I couldn't take it anymore. I worked up the nerve and decided to take my first stab at custom water cooling. This is my system before and after. It has a 1080ti and a 6700K


----------



## lexlutha111384




----------



## lexlutha111384




----------



## lexlutha111384




----------



## hadesfactor

looks sharp! great job for your 1st attempt


----------



## fast_fate

Drop-In Cooler Pack ready to go into current build - *[Build Log] Soigné3*


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Drop-In Cooler Pack ready to go into current build - *[Build Log] Soigné3*


That looks amazing, really love the colours and checking link build log now. Dumb question, what exactly is a Drop in cooler pack, where does it exactly go rather


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> That looks amazing, really love the colours and checking link build log now. Dumb question, what exactly is a Drop in cooler pack, where does it exactly go rather


I guess it's all about the mounting plate that the rads and fans are attached to.
Once pre-assembled (as pictured) the whole thing (cooler pack) can be plonked in the case and screwed down








rather than fitting the rad and fans directly to the chassis panel and having to work blind, upside down and around other components ect.

Below you can see the top of the case is just a frame - ready to accept the drop-in cooler pack.


----------



## AstroSky

what can i do to make it cool betteer
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> backplates are just for aesthetics, nothing to do with cooling power ,you will find dozens of reviews proving that


what can i do to make it cool better?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> backplates are just for aesthetics, nothing to do with cooling power ,you will find dozens of reviews proving that


That depends on the backplate. If you don't have a full cover block then VRM temps will get better by having a backplate that uses thermal pads to connect to the PCB where the VRMs are positioned. There is also the Aquacomputer active backplates which really helps with VRM temps as well, so to say that it doesn't help at all is just not correct. It's significantly more pronounced on a card that pulls a lot of power, but backplates help in all cases as long as they actually make contact with the PCB.

Check out the VRM temps on the 290 in this test to see what I mean.

oh, and @AstroSky you mentioned that the VRM temps are 50*c under load. I don't see anything wrong with that at all, most VRMs can handle 105*c without issues, so 50*c is not something to be concerned about.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexlutha111384*


Great job for your first attempt. Looks great!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I guess it's all about the mounting plate that the rads and fans are attached to.
> Once pre-assembled (as pictured) the whole thing (cooler pack) can be plonked in the case and screwed down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rather than fitting the rad and fans directly to the chassis panel and having to work blind, upside down and around other components ect.
> 
> Below you can see the top of the case is just a frame - ready to accept the drop-in cooler pack.


Truly gorgeous! Got any more pictures?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> 
> Truly gorgeous! Got any more pictures?


*[Build Log] Soigné3*


----------



## AstroSky

also idk if anyone has ever attempted but i plan on running Electroluminescent wire with my watercooling tubing to make it glow







sounds like a cool idea to me. Problem would be hiding the extra wires but we will see


----------



## AstroSky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Thanks a lot for the feedback, it is really bugging me and I cannot really decide what to go for ... I will not use those EL wires inside the tubing, bit to "fancy" for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you would not see it with copper tubing either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have long runs, but I have some troubles with tubing and my reservoir, because it will be placed about were all my tubing is coming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Troublesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, it is kind of tempting going with the angled fittings just because it is uncommon, but bent tubing looks better (and is WAY cheaper), if I am going with fittings it will cost me 350 USD more, at least. This is just the angled fittings that I would not need if I bend the tubes myself, I am using copper tubing only, no acrylic here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My biggest fear is the hours I am going to be spending on bending the tubing!


hey!! thats what i want to do. How do you run that stuff and have it connected to the power if its INSIDE the tubing?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexlutha111384*
> 
> Alright guys. I couldn't take it anymore. I worked up the nerve and decided to take my first stab at custom water cooling. This is my system before and after. It has a 1080ti and a 6700K


Looking good, but quadruple posting?! Those pictures will fit just fine in a single post, if you forgot to add them the first time around, you can just add them with the edit button.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> hey!! thats what i want to do. How do you run that stuff and have it connected to the power if its INSIDE the tubing?


While I'm at it, please don't doeble post, use the edit button.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Looking good, but quadruple posting?! Those pictures will fit just fine in a single post, if you forgot to add them the first time around, you can just add them with the edit button.
> While I'm at it, please don't doeble post, use the edit button.


Think Lex was posting via mobile, but yeah it'll all fit in a single post - just will take longer to piece together.
Im normally posting via my phone, but knowing how to type out bbcode or html helps

Enjoying my day off at Great Point reserve

 wish I had a shot of the guy who buried his Tahoe up to the floor boards since he didn't deflate to 15psi


----------



## lexlutha111384

I was using mobile. It was giving me issues


----------



## DarthBaggins

I always had bugs with mobile via my iPhone, so far minimal to zero with my Pixel.
Loop looks good btw


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> That depends on the backplate. If you don't have a full cover block then VRM temps will get better by having a backplate that uses thermal pads to connect to the PCB where the VRMs are positioned. There is also the Aquacomputer active backplates which really helps with VRM temps as well, so to say that it doesn't help at all is just not correct. It's significantly more pronounced on a card that pulls a lot of power, but backplates help in all cases as long as they actually make contact with the PCB.
> 
> Check out the VRM temps on the 290 in this test to see what I mean.
> 
> oh, and @AstroSky you mentioned that the VRM temps are 50*c under load. I don't see anything wrong with that at all, most VRMs can handle 105*c without issues, so 50*c is not something to be concerned about.


I can tell you that my 1080gtx pulls lot of power, it's overclocked at 2100mhz and I am using an Ek full liquid wb. When I recently added the EK backplate (the one with Thermal pads) the gpu had still exact same Temps as before, there are many reviews on internet confirming this too


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> I can tell you that my 1080gtx pulls lot of power, it's overclocked at 2100mhz and I am using an Ek full liquid wb. When I recently added the EK backplate (the one with Thermal pads) the gpu had still exact same Temps as before, there are many reviews on internet confirming this too


First things first: 1. the gtx1080 is not delivered with any temp sensors for the VRM section of the card (as far as I know, I don't own one myself so I can only say what I see in reviews) so any VRM temps that you would measure on the card is highly inaccurate. 2. The R9 290 and 290x is notorious for pulling a lot of power so the assumption that even a over-clocked Pascal would draw the same amount is just not even close to true. 3. the GPU temps won't get better by adding a backplate unless you make direct contact to the back of the card under the die, and even then the temperature gain would be marginal since the GPU is already cooled by such a massive cooling solution. 4. as I mentioned it's more pronounced on a card that does not have active VRM cooling (such as some "full cover" blocks like some older Swiftech and Thermaltake blocks, or just universal blocks).

The simple point here is that any surface area that you add to the chips will aid in cooling performance. Some designs will work far better than others for that purpose, but they all add some to it even if just marginally. Some designs that some factory supplied cards have been delivered with have had no contact with the PCB at all (contact is usually achieved with thermal pads), and in fact those solutions often worsen the temperatures since heat transfer is way to slow between the backplate and the PCB (it basically traps the heat there).

My point with all this is simply to say that you shouldn't make claims that are just not true.

Edit: Still very few backplates are actually designed for cooling purposes as they are much more often used to add rigidity to the card and improve/worsen the aesthetics. That would be the main reason you don't see a massive improvement, but if you want to check out some solutions that does then the Aquacomputer active backplates and the Arctic cooling AIO kits is a good place to start.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Drop-In Cooler Pack ready to go into current build - *[Build Log] Soigné3*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like that. Nice wiring solution.


----------



## Mega Man

The last several amd gen cards backplate cool (passively) the back of core (usually) and vrms, since at least the 290s, I cant speak for all gens, but most of them i know of do, nor all manufactures, but I know ac, Swiftech, ek do


----------



## hadesfactor

Yeah my EK 1080 Ti back plate passively cools...I know specifically EK will send thermal pads but as others have mentioned, passive cooling is all they need as the bulk of the cooling happens in the front and also note the VRMs are designed with greater thermal caps then the chip sets. They can usually handle 2.5x the heat of the chipset if not more thats what hey are designed to handle. The biggest prob imo is that heat rises and horiz GPUs which is 90% are bottom face the top but as long as your block is doing its job backplate cooling shouldnt even be a thought. If you're not water cooling you GPU then its more of a concern


----------



## kroaton

I can tell you that installing this backplate on my 1080gtx liquid cooled, made absolutely no difference at all in the GPU temps.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-backplate-nickel

Probably helps on VRMs but i was talking about min and max GPU temps, in my case they stay the same and i read same thing on dozens of forums


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Install an Alphacool backplate on and touch it after 2 hours of gaming , very very very hot , but then again they do supply 7kw pads and a lot to cover most of the backside haha
Defualt backplates do nothing


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> I can tell you that installing this backplate on my 1080gtx liquid cooled, made absolutely no difference at all in the GPU temps.
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-backplate-nickel
> 
> Probably helps on VRMs but i was talking about min and max GPU temps, in my case they stay the same and i read same thing on dozens of forums


Why would you assume that a puny backplate could improve core temps anyway? As far as I saw the original question was concerning VRM temps, and in that case a backplate does help. It also does so on a GPU, but the gain is really small.

Think of it like this, if you add 10cm^2 to a surface area that is already just 20cm^2 that gain is 33%, but if you add 10cm^2 to a surface that's already 200cm^2 the gain is only 5%. Ofcourse there are things such as the thermal properties of the backplate and the thermal transfer from the PCB to it, as well as the rate at which heat is removed from the surface (air flow vs water... and so on).

The simple point here is that while the gain is marginal in some cases that doesn't mean it's not there.


----------



## VeritronX

I've ordered the EK monoblock for my gigabyte X370 K7, any tips for making sure everything is mounted properly the first time? Should I get thermal grizly conductonaught? Best way to apply thermal paste? I want to do this once and leave it like that for the next two years or so, gotta get it right.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> I've ordered the EK monoblock for my gigabyte X370 K7, any tips for making sure everything is mounted properly the first time? Should I get thermal grizly conductonaught? Best way to apply thermal paste? I want to do this once and leave it like that for the next two years or so, gotta get it right.


I'm under the general impression that liquid metal is just not worth the hassle when put between the IHS and the block, so my vote goes for the Kryonaut instead of the Conductonaut. As for tips... Thermal Grizly tim is usually spread on the IHS which is what I would recommend doing with a Ryzen anyways (or do the X method), the simple reason for that is that the IHS is soldered so the entire IHS actually transfers heat quite well. There is also the fact that the chip is elongated in shape so it's important to actually cover the top and bottom of the IHS as well instead of just the centre that would be needed to cover on a 115x CPU.

Other than that... Monoblocks are specifically created for that motherboard and that specific size CPU so I doubt there would be any issues with an off mount as you more or less can just bottom out the screw and be fine. Unless of-course monoblocks are created really different from full cover VGA blocks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Swapped my SP120's out for some Noctua's, so far more pleased with the tone they put off compared to the SP's
Still need to paint the red should on the SB-Z B52-Gray


----------



## dracotonisamond

I am probably going to make a build thread for this when i get closer to being finished but i guess i will post it here since i got it close enough to test today.






i still have to cut vent panels out, finish wiring\cable organizing, make a bracket for the AQ6, paint, cut the top and sides, and plumb the drain and fill tube.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Test GPU loop good to go with some Mayhem's pastel


----------



## kroaton

Finally I got the extender and 90°fititng,so I took a chance also to mount the flow meter. Some new Pic with ek backplate too


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://imgur.com/mjZKbe6 http://imgur.com/MU3exgQ http://imgur.com/BZpKfqK http://imgur.com/dJjBlBd http://imgur.com/uosdg7K http://imgur.com/BaYowGR


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> Finally I got the extender and 90°fititng,so I took a chance also to mount the flow meter. Some new Pic with ek backplate too
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good







Hows that filter working for you? I'm contemplating on getting one for my loop as well, but I'm curious if it actually picks up the finer debris and how much it actually restricts the flow.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hows that filter working for you? I'm contemplating on getting one for my loop as well, but I'm curious if it actually picks up the finer debris and how much it actually restricts the flow.


thanks, this is the flow meter i used, i don't see any restriction honestly, looks really cool unfortunately i have a pastel coolant, i would need to switch to a transparent one


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> thanks, this is the flow meter i used, i don't see any restriction honestly, looks really cool unfortunately i have a pastel coolant, i would need to switch to a transparent one


Oh I see it's a flow meter







makes way more sense







I was thinking of the filters that you would mount in the loop to collect debris, which obviously slows down flow if they work effectively like this (hence why I never really see people use them). Totally forgot that cylindrical flow meters are also a thing









Anyway... does it have a tac? I recently got a Barrow one for my loop that has a tac, but I'm mostly using it after I had a scare regarding my pump not running


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Oh I see it's a flow meter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> makes way more sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of the filters that you would mount in the loop to collect debris, which obviously slows down flow if they work effectively like this (hence why I never really see people use them). Totally forgot that cylindrical flow meters are also a thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway... does it have a tac? I recently got a Barrow one for my loop that has a tac, but I'm mostly using it after I had a scare regarding my pump not running


no i took the version without tac.
Here's a video of my loop where the meter can be seen better


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroaton*
> 
> thanks, this is the flow meter i used, i don't see any restriction honestly, looks really cool unfortunately i have a pastel coolant, i would need to switch to a transparent one


What's the use of having it if you can't see it "flowing"?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Oh I see it's a flow meter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> makes way more sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of the filters that you would mount in the loop to collect debris, which obviously slows down flow if they work effectively like this (hence why I never really see people use them). Totally forgot that cylindrical flow meters are also a thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway... does it have a tac? I recently got a Barrow one for my loop that has a tac, but I'm mostly using it after I had a scare regarding my pump not running


The only reliable flow meters with a tac signal I've found are the Koolance or Aquacomputer ones. Tried the cheaper Bitspower, OCcool which say they don't require a adapter to work, but they were finicky at best. Had to have a very fast flow rate in order to work somewhat reliable. The Barrow and some other no names off ebay were even worse. Buy a good one now if you can and don't look back.


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> What's the use of having it if you can't see it "flowing"?
> The only reliable flow meters with a tac signal I've found are the Koolance or Aquacomputer ones. Tried the cheaper Bitspower, OCcool which say they don't require a adapter to work, but they were finicky at best. Had to have a very fast flow rate in order to work somewhat reliable. The Barrow and some other no names off ebay were even worse. Buy a good one now if you can and don't look back.


i cannot see the flow FOR NOW. I have a red pastel so you cannot see trough it, but when i will have to replace this liquid i already have the ek red blood which is not pastel but transparent so i wil be able to see the flow. For now even if i cannot see the spiral, i can see if and how fast the water moves in it


----------



## Knightly McNutt

Very cool, nice build


----------



## Mega Man

who is freeze mod? I see they sell allot of the knock off brands. I am hoping they are not one themselves


----------



## kroaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> who is freeze mod? I see they sell allot of the knock off brands. I am hoping they are not one themselves


it's barrow, i was astonished by the product, looks really high quality and for only 15 dollars, was worth to try


----------



## orbitalwalsh

it works !





anyone interested in Using Alphacools GPX Block with Aorus Extreme Backplates - Four x 6mm 3M bolts/screws for the Die mount and Three x 8mm 3M for the VRMs









Remove two 3m nuts here on the Block which clash with screws mounting the backplate to the PCB





Hope this helps


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Looking good, but quadruple posting?! Those pictures will fit just fine in a single post, if you forgot to add them the first time around, you can just add them with the edit button.
> While I'm at it, please don't doeble post, use the edit button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think Lex was posting via mobile, but yeah it'll all fit in a single post - just will take longer to piece together.
> Im normally posting via my phone, but knowing how to type out bbcode or html helps
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoying my day off at Great Point reserve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wish I had a shot of the guy who buried his Tahoe up to the floor boards since he didn't deflate to 15psi
Click to expand...

Gotta love that. I took my old Subaru GL out on the beach and didn't deflate a single pound of pressure. Carved some donuts in 4WDHigh an she took it like a champ. Fun car to brody the beach in.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I dont go on sand but....I broke my diff today anyway!



£750 lighter but she comes back tomorrow!


----------



## snef




----------



## Mega Man

slightly off topic

we have 3 new york chillers in a building we will be moving into this upcoming month.

they have 1- magnetic bearings
2 everything in side is watercooled !

idr how many tons.

but kinda cool my hobby is now part of my work


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> slightly off topic
> 
> we have 3 new york chillers in a building we will be moving into this upcoming month.
> 
> they have 1- magnetic bearings
> 2 everything in side is watercooled !
> 
> idr how many tons.
> 
> but kinda cool my hobby is now part of my work


HA! thats pretty cool...what do you do for work if you don't mind me asking


----------



## Mega Man

HVAC

i have been moving around alot, but hey i am in demand, and i figure that these companies wont show me any loyalty why should i show them any.

basically i get paid a crapton ( between 60k-100k per year on average { @ journeyman status }- some of my friends i know make ~ 130-160k ) to drive around and do near nothing ( read- at my new job ). sometimes { read - rarely } we work hard, but like today i turned down a tstat, went to the training on the new chillers, threw a few filters in, and removed a exhaust fan

if you are young- may i recommend a life long job in the hvac industry - service NOT INSTALLS - COMMERCIAL ONLY NO RESIDENTIAL ! { will need large cities }


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> HVAC
> 
> i have been moving around alot, but hey i am in demand, and i figure that these companies wont show me any loyalty why should i show them any.
> 
> basically i get paid a crapton ( between 60k-100k per year on average { @ journeyman status }- some of my friends i know make ~ 130-160k ) to drive around and do near nothing ( read- at my new job ). sometimes { read - rarely } we work hard, but like today i turned down a tstat, went to the training on the new chillers, threw a few filters in, and removed a exhaust fan
> 
> if you are young- may i recommend a life long job in the hvac industry - service NOT INSTALLS - COMMERCIAL ONLY NO RESIDENTIAL ! { will need large cities }


Nice!....yeah out here where I live (Arizona) they make bank...obviously out here you NEED ac lol.....I've always told people who are young if they don't know what to do for work to hit up a union and within a few years they will make bank. Me...yeah not young lol also in a great career....net engineer for an enterprise class company so needless to say my hobby and work are kinda very similar....they just wont let me overclock their servers lol


----------



## hadesfactor

Heres a question...what have people been getting for overclocks on their 1080 ti....so far ive been able to keep it stable at 2100mhz and 1210mem stays between 37 and 39c running heaven....power boost is +120 ober volt is +85 core clock is +200 mem is +500....sorry not able to post a pic at the moment....i know these are pretty standard but wondering if people have been able to push past 2100mhz


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> slightly off topic
> 
> we have 3 new york chillers in a building we will be moving into this upcoming month.
> 
> they have 1- magnetic bearings
> 2 everything in side is watercooled !
> 
> idr how many tons.
> 
> but kinda cool my hobby is now part of my work


That's how I got into it. I've been doing chillers, rack systems , refrigeration for 10 years. Basically works the same outside of my more co trolls and safeties. Specially the new co2 systems cooled by gylcol


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Heres a question...what have people been getting for overclocks on their 1080 ti....so far ive been able to keep it stable at 2100mhz and 1210mem stays between 37 and 39c running heaven....power boost is +120 ober volt is +85 core clock is +200 mem is +500....sorry not able to post a pic at the moment....i know these are pretty standard but wondering if people have been able to push past 2100mhz


Hi there

I've been able push my Ti at 2139MHz at 1.075v or 2148MHz at 1.093v but usually I'm using or running my OC 2113MHz at 1.075v on my Ti,2148MHz OC I use only for benches and 2138MHz I use for rendering or for gaming but 2113MHz is my most common OC setting

Temperatures are very similar to yours at 36-38°C, with higher ambient temperature 26-28°C temperatures will be off course higher at 40-42°C during the gaming

As with everything its down to silicone lottery, I know some people can't push their Ti over 2100MHz under water

Did you tried to use MSI Afterburner and curves to adjust yours OC

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## VeritronX

I've received the new monoblock for my K7 board, interestingly it comes with their EC tim again where the AM4 Supremacy EVO I bought came with thermal grizzly hydronaught.. I like EC tim anyways so I'm tempted to just use that rather than buying something else for it. I do still need to buy more tubing and looking at a different coolant so getting some kryonaught wouldn't be that hard if I change my mind soonish.

In short, would you recommend ec tim, hydronaught or kryonaught for a 2-3yr long application?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> I've received the new monoblock for my K7 board, interestingly it comes with their EC tim again where the AM4 Supremacy EVO I bought came with thermal grizzly hydronaught.. I like EC tim anyways so I'm tempted to just use that rather than buying something else for it. I do still need to buy more tubing and looking at a different coolant so getting some kryonaught wouldn't be that hard if I change my mind soonish.
> 
> In short, would you recommend ec tim, hydronaught or kryonaught for a 2-3yr long application?


http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/
I'd avoid the EK-tim, hydronaut is good enough, don't go buy kryonaut just because.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I've been able push my Ti at 2139MHz at 1.075v or 2148MHz at 1.093v but usually I'm using or running my OC 2113MHz at 1.075v on my Ti,2148MHz OC I use only for benches and 2138MHz I use for rendering or for gaming but 2113MHz is my most common OC setting
> 
> Temperatures are very similar to yours at 36-38°C, with higher ambient temperature 26-28°C temperatures will be off course higher at 40-42°C during the gaming
> 
> As with everything its down to silicone lottery, I know some people can't push their Ti over 2100MHz under water
> 
> Did you tried to use MSI Afterburner and curves to adjust yours OC
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


That does help! thanks. Seems like I get instability with more than 2100 but I haven't tweaked it either yet. Im gonna try pushing a little more voltage...right now im +85Mv. I do use MSI AB but I haven't tried OC via curve control yet. Last time I used AB they didn't have this option so I dont have experience setting with a curve. Can you maybe post a pic of you'r curve if it's not too much trouble so I can see an example of a valid OC.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> That does help! thanks. Seems like I get instability with more than 2100 but I haven't tweaked it either yet. Im gonna try pushing a little more voltage...right now im +85Mv. I do use MSI AB but I haven't tried OC via curve control yet. Last time I used AB they didn't have this option so I dont have experience setting with a curve. Can you maybe post a pic of you'r curve if it's not too much trouble so I can see an example of a valid OC.


Hi there

This is best way how to OC Pascal GPU through the Curves with MSI AB

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYAeiDxq77U

And here are my OC

2088MHz at 1.050v



2113MHz at 1.062v



2126MHz at 1.075v



2138MHz at 1.093Mhz



This last one I've tweaked a lot and now I'm at 2155MHz at 1.093v which is absolute max for my Ti,you can try have look on flashing the XOC BIOS on yours FE which doesn't have power limit and voltage is unlocked up to 1.15-1.2v

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> This is best way how to OC Pascal GPU through the Curves with MSI AB
> 
> This last one I've tweaked a lot and now I'm at 2155MHz at 1.093v which is absolute max for my Ti,you can try have look on flashing the XOC BIOS on yours FE which doesn't have power limit and voltage is unlocked up to 1.15-1.2v
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


That does help a bunch







I thought about flashing the firmware but kinda hesitant as I dont wanna brick my TI lol If I can push it another 50 or so I think Id be happy


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/
> I'd avoid the EK-tim, hydronaut is good enough, don't go buy kryonaut just because.


I don't think ek tim and ec tim (ectotherm) are the same thing, ec tim performs the same as gelid extreme gc2 for me while being easier to apply then the gelid or hydronaut.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> That does help a bunch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about flashing the firmware but kinda hesitant as I dont wanna brick my TI lol If I can push it another 50 or so I think Id be happy


Hi there

If you are running Founders Edition then I would stay away from HOF BIOS and few others, best for Founders Edition is XOC, ArcticStorm and FTW3 BIOS but still if you can then Shunt mode is best way to get extra performance and no power limitation

I'm still on stock BIOS for now as I'm very happy with performance,when I mined I downvolted my Ti to 1.0v and 2025MHz OC which has been stable for several hours and tried play games with such settings and been very happy with performance as well and temperatures has been pretty low

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> If you are running Founders Edition then I would stay away from HOF BIOS and few others, best for Founders Edition is XOC, ArcticStorm and FTW3 BIOS but still if you can then Shunt mode is best way to get extra performance and no power limitation
> 
> I'm still on stock BIOS for now as I'm very happy with performance,when I mined I downvolted my Ti to 1.0v and 2025MHz OC which has been stable for several hours and tried play games with such settings and been very happy with performance as well and temperatures has been pretty low
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Yeah im on the FE..imo doesnt make a whole lot of sense when running water...i mean yes you sometimes get better binned chips but youre paying a lot more for their cooling which youre ripping off anyways....I think im gonna stay away from flashing the bios as of now...not trying to break records lol as long as im oc pretty well and stable im happy...my ek block is doing an amazing job keeping it cool. I need to see if i can get a little lower on my CPU temps right now its just a modest OC and temps stay 35-39 normal load and maybe 44-46 under stress...cant complain as my ambient is 30c and my delta between water and ambient is 4c underload for cpu and 2-3c under load gpu


----------



## hadesfactor

Ok here is the final product....kinda lol....still have to finish a few minor things like my cable combs. I painted the billet combs but between the primer and coats I wasn't able to insert the cable lol so I am filing it down a little lol I also have a bracket for the gpu both from MNPC

I wont flood with a ton of pcs but pretty much the whole build log on the custom mods etc are in my rig in my sig if anyone's interested








The only way I could get those grommets white was to paint the with plasti-dip which worked out as it flexes with the cable but no amount of prep help eliminate orange peeling I want through a couple cans just playing with it spraying at different levels etc

The next thing I'm gonna play with is making an on/off switch for the LEDs on the ML's But the light box is plugged into the motherboard so its all controlled via Asus Aura which is cool since its synced with the mobo


----------



## Gilles3000

The Corsair tramp stamp... Its back...


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The Corsair tramp stamp... Its back...
> 
> Hahah I knew some people would say something but I thought it would look cool with the build and I didn't want their ship logo in the center


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The Corsair tramp stamp... Its back...


Darn it, now I can't stop laughing. Though, I can use the laugh since I had a bit of wrangling a lappy today (stupid thing's OS took a crap).


----------



## toggLesss

quick question (possibly a dumb one): on a CPU block (EK Supremacy EVO), does it matter if the 'Out' port is on top?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> quick question (possibly a dumb one): on a CPU block (EK Supremacy EVO), does it matter if the 'Out' port is on top?


you want tthe in port coming into the jet plate it will hurt your temps but only a few degrees


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> you want tthe in port coming into the jet plate it will hurt your temps but only a few degrees


yes of course... the "in" & "out" as labelled on the EK block will remain in and out... im mainly talking about orientation. im building in the NCase M1 and the way im running my loop it would work better if the block was rotated 90 degrees with the out port at the top.

i just wasnt sure if that mattered...


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> yes of course... the "in" & "out" as labelled on the EK block will remain in and out... im mainly talking about orientation. im building in the NCase M1 and the way im running my loop it would work better if the block was rotated 90 degrees with the out port at the top.
> 
> i just wasnt sure if that mattered...


sorry i literally just had the same convo but in and out ports...as long as it mounts and the plates are covering you cpu youre fine orientation doesnt matter or not that ive seen


----------



## ruffhi

Rotated 90° is called goofy.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/12/22/aquacomputer-cuplex-kryos-next-cpu-water-block-review/4/


----------



## looniam

i thought "goofy" was rotating the block's microfins 90° (jet plate is parallel as opposed to perpendicular) , no?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i thought "goofy" was rotating the block's microfins 90° (jet plate is parallel as opposed to perpendicular) , no?


essentially the same thing by rotating the block you are rotating the fin placement but the difference in temp is usually negligible


----------



## looniam

seriously?









here i am thinking people take the block apart and rotate the freaking jetplate/top 90°.

this is only one of several times i have shamed myself here . . .


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i thought "goofy" was rotating the block's microfins 90° (jet plate is parallel as opposed to perpendicular) , no?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> essentially the same thing by rotating the block you are rotating the fin placement but the difference in temp is usually negligible


That's not quite right there, if you are rotating fin placement/copper base on EK Supermacy then yours temperatures will suffer, friend done that and his temperatures has been around 15-20°C higher on load, idle temperatures has been around 2-5°C higher, this fin placement or copper base rotation seems caused restriction and higher temperatures than usual, my friend has wrongly assembled block as he tried to replace jet

On EK Supermacy fins or copper base is orientated horizontally towards to OUT port and if you fins or copper base rotate vertically towards to EK logo this will restrict flow or will result in higher temperatures

He is running too in goofy position or location on his and no issues

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## hadesfactor

Im stupid in my head i wasnt thinking about the jet plate orientation in the block jusy the overall block in goofy but my end result still sticks rotating the block itself is usually negligible...on other notes Jura with a curve like u suggested in MSI i was able to push 2214 at 40c running heaven but my bench score was actually less then before so more tweaking lol


----------



## ruffhi

The report / review I linked above had some temps with the 'typical' orientation as well as the goofy ...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## hadesfactor

@Jura scratch that heaven was showing 1 clock but the graph on msi was showing another


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Im stupid in my head i wasnt thinking about the jet plate orientation in the block jusy the overall block in goofy but my end result still sticks rotating the block itself is usually negligible...on other notes Jura with a curve like u suggested in MSI i was able to push 2214 at 40c running heaven but my bench score was actually less then before so more tweaking lol


I will try to take the pictures what I mean what my friend done and why his temperatures went up,have at home spare block which I will be using on my brother build

During benches I have always opened MSI Afterburner or HWiNFO and check there actual clock

2214MHz if its true then yours card is golden, usually this click I saw only under LN2 or with chiller

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## hadesfactor

Yeah i msi running in the background amd realized it was too good to be true lol
I saw this and got excited until it didnt make sense the score went down until i opened up my graph lol


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Yeah i msi running in the background amd realized it was too good to be true lol
> I saw this and got excited until it didnt make sense the score went down until i opened up my graph lol


That's strange,I just finished rendering and tried to run same scene and same benchmark with same settings for comparison,my OC is on Ti 2113MHz at 1.075v and 450MHz on VRAM,in my case Heaven reporting correctly VRAM and GPU speed as well,in benchmark I've saw as max 40C but right now ambient is close to 26C

Here is screenshot



Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## hadesfactor

Yeah mine def wasnt really running at that speed i dont know what it was doing but it was running closer to 2000....you can see by the score which was worse then my legit 2050 clock lol so far i havent been able to get anything stable with a curve more than 2050 when i use the reg sliders i can get a little higher but I attribute that to my lack of knowledge its gonna take some playing and tweeking...my temps are fine never break 40c


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Yeah mine def wasnt really running at that speed i dont know what it was doing but it was running closer to 2000....you can see by the score which was worse then my legit 2050 clock lol so far i havent been able to get anything stable with a curve more than 2050 when i use the reg sliders i can get a little higher but I attribute that to my lack of knowledge its gonna take some playing and tweeking...my temps are fine never break 40c


Hi there

I would have look on that YT video how to adjust correctly MSI AB curves,usually this will gain a few MHz on top on Pascal cards which are sometimes temperamental to OC,but you should do that,temperatures in yours case are not issues,these temps are great and anything under 40 or around 40 is good temperature on Ti in my view and yes tweaking will and can takes bit more time but this shouldn't be very hard there:thumb:

I know in my case sometimes higher clocks doesn't automatically means higher scores,you need to find perfect balance,due this I use 2113MHz more than any other,only in Octane renderer I use my highest OC or in other renderers which use CUDA or OpenCL

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## hadesfactor

Thanks buddy all you help was great...this weekend ill tweak until i get a good stable oc...still have to tweak my cpu too...just have a modest 4.4 on it right now just so i can do some work on it...ill let u know how ut turns out...time to get on my flight lol


----------



## bundymania

First teaser pics of the new Alphacool SSD Cooler


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> First teaser pics of the new Alphacool SSD Cooler


trying to get a hold of the water and standard to mate the backplate of the air version to the water version for a much much better look, not sure why they didn't add it as its about $4 extra in materials


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> I don't think ek tim and ec tim (ectotherm) are the same thing, ec tim performs the same as gelid extreme gc2 for me while being easier to apply then the gelid or hydronaut.


Yeah it's written in the comment, ec tim is like mx-4, the one in the chart it the indigo smtg.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> First teaser pics of the new Alphacool SSD Cooler


Hmmm... that PCB is looking really similar to Aquacomputer's, I wonder if they share the same OEM or if someone at Alphacool has caught the copy-paste bug...


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Hmmm... that PCB is looking really similar to Aquacomputer's, I wonder if they share the same OEM or if someone at Alphacool has caught the copy-paste bug...


companies are very very interlinked - Aqua would be the Bugatti Brand to Alphacool's VW branding


----------



## toggLesss

coming along quite nicely... just not without a few headaches.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Hmmm... that PCB is looking really similar to Aquacomputer's, I wonder if they share the same OEM or if someone at Alphacool has caught the copy-paste bug...


I think you mean the ThermalTake bug. . lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i thought "goofy" was rotating the block's microfins 90° (jet plate is parallel as opposed to perpendicular) , no?


You cant do that 'in' the block,you can only rotate the whole block.

Also,those AlphaC ports on that block will be weak as granny's tea.......garbage as usual from the also-rans.....


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> First teaser pics of the new Alphacool SSD Cooler
> 
> snip


The ports should have been on top and bottom instead of the front. It would made it easier to make tubing runs from your GPU to this. I still prefer Aqua-Computer version(I have two of them for my PC), Plus I really don't want to get burned by AlphaCool again with one of there products.


----------



## Dortheleus

Sorry can you delete this message?
Cheers,


----------



## Kapitan-Fluffy

Hi
The black Thermaltake is my gaming machine, Which I'm stripping for maintenance and adding the Aquacomputer Vision cpu block and Kryo connection terminals.





And this is my "Vader" VR machine I hung on the wall in the family room.


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> nice...but that hose clamp...
> not the lowest cost route, but...
> 
> could you replace the fitting at the rad with an extender (they make them in different lengths), then put a 90 on the end of it. that should allow you to line up the ends do it is a straight (but really short) path down to the card
> 
> extenders http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=extender
> 
> or maybe a snake/adapter would work to essentially create a hard line
> 
> snake adapters http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=snake


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kapitan-Fluffy*
> 
> Hi
> The black Thermaltake is my gaming machine, Which I'm stripping for maintenance and adding the Aquacomputer Vision cpu block and Kryo connection terminals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is my "Vader" VR machine I hung on the wall in the family room.


Wicked sick!!!


----------



## Laine

Been working on the Metis again, it contains a weird mix of some exotic components.

Water;

CPU - Anfi-Tec Soleil02
MB - MIPS southbridge
GPU - Watercool Heatkiller GPU-X³ GTX 970 Ni-Bl w/ matching Heatkiller backplate
Pump - 2x Koolance PMP-300
Res - Alphacool Cape Corp AGB2
Rads - EK Coolstream PE 120
Controller - AquaComputer Poweradjust 3


----------



## DarthBaggins

I recognize that build


----------



## looniam

can someone confirm this?
Quote:


> If you go with Fujipoly Extreme (the 11w/mk), remember to *change it after like a year tops, it dries out, fairly quickly*. Good stuff, just change it, once a year or so.
> 
> Except I would go with Fujipoly Ultra Extreme (17.0 W/mK), change that every 6 months though. *It dries out even faster*, depending on heat.


really? thermal PADS dry out?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

In my experience, Fujipoly 17 W/mK pads, the light-grey ones, do become brittle after few months, _but_ they retain their heat conductivity properties. So you only need to change them if you re-mount the waterblock, because if you peel them off, they crumble, and you cannot reuse them.

11 W/mK ones, which are reddish-brownish in color, are way more flexible and can be reused most of the time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Hmmm... that PCB is looking really similar to Aquacomputer's, I wonder if they share the same OEM or if someone at Alphacool has caught the copy-paste bug...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you mean the ThermalTake bug. . lol
Click to expand...

That PCB config is pretty much standard for PCI M.2 adapters.









~Ceadder


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> can someone confirm this?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> If you go with Fujipoly Extreme (the 11w/mk), remember to *change it after like a year tops, it dries out, fairly quickly*. Good stuff, just change it, once a year or so.
> 
> Except I would go with Fujipoly Ultra Extreme (17.0 W/mK), change that every 6 months though. *It dries out even faster*, depending on heat.
> 
> 
> 
> really? thermal PADS dry out?
Click to expand...

What?!!!

Those pads are damn expensive as it is, just for a one-time installation!

To have to change them out every 6 months, or even every year, that would be crazy-expensive!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> In my experience, Fujipoly 17 W/mK pads, the light-grey ones, do become brittle after few months, _but_ they retain their heat conductivity properties. So you only need to change them if you re-mount the waterblock, because if you peel them off, they crumble, and you cannot reuse them.
> 
> 11 W/mK ones, which are reddish-brownish in color, are way more flexible and can be reused most of the time.


This sounds a lot more reasonable.

So if the block is not removed after installing them, there is no need to replace the pads.
But, I can see it being necessary to replace thermal pads after removing a block, in many cases.

Kind of ironic that the less-expensive 11 W/mK pads are more durable than the 17 W/mK pads.


----------



## cyphon

Hey guys, been awhile since I've checked i here. looking at doing a new build and looking for a good compact case with decent space for watercooling. Anything new and good on the market? Looking at mini-itx or micro-atx mb and single gpu.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Things left to do:

-Sleeve the SATA wiring from the HDD cage (awaiting more MDPC SATA sleeving)
-New Fans
-Sleeve and cable manage new fans
-re-work the water loop to clean up the tubing a bit. Adding some angled fittings, etc.

I also might go ahead and sleeve the 24pin myself with the MDPC sleeving that I have. I bought the sleeving and the right tools, and now that I'm getting more comfortable sleeving I think I might give it a shot. Something just doesn't convince me about this 24 pin, just doesn't look right to me. Can't get the wires organized/tidy no matter what I do.


----------



## THC Butterz

Maybe yall could help me out, i am looking for a d5 pump top tube reservoir with everything i would need to mount it etc, but without the pump included, i already have the swiftech d5, cheaper the better, but i cant seem to find anything


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Maybe yall could help me out, i am looking for a d5 pump top tube reservoir with everything i would need to mount it etc, but without the pump included, i already have the swiftech d5, cheaper the better, but i cant seem to find anything


MonSoon would be the best Bet with that:


----------



## elderan

Did a new build a few months ago, finally cleaned it up some. This is my first hard tube build and my second water cooling build.

Specs are Intel 7700k, ASUS ROG Maximus IX Extreme, 2 1080 TI, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB PCIe NVMe, G.SKILL 32GB TridentZ RGB
Cooling equipment 2x EK-XTOP Revo D5, 3x XSPC RX480 Rads, 12x Corsair ML120 Pro LED, All Bitspower fittings.

Link to the album
http://imgur.com/a/mFsQd


----------



## dicom

Why so many rads?


----------



## elderan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> Why so many rads?


Because 2 would not have looked right?


----------



## wirefox




----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wirefox*


@wirefox

What is that pump?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Maybe yall could help me out, i am looking for a d5 pump top tube reservoir with everything i would need to mount it etc, but without the pump included, i already have the swiftech d5, cheaper the better, but i cant seem to find anything


As @Revan654 mentioned, Monsoon would probably be a good choice. That said, you can find combos like that from a heap of others as well including EKWB, bitspower and Aquacomputer.

Surprisingly Aquacomputer has the best prices


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> Did a new build a few months ago, finally cleaned it up some. This is my first hard tube build and my second water cooling build.
> 
> Specs are Intel 7700k, ASUS ROG Maximus IX Extreme, 2 1080 TI, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB PCIe NVMe, G.SKILL 32GB TridentZ RGB
> Cooling equipment 2x EK-XTOP Revo D5, 3x XSPC RX480 Rads, 12x Corsair ML120 Pro LED, All Bitspower fittings.
> 
> Link to the album
> http://imgur.com/a/mFsQd


Cool build, what are those 2 light bolt that below the reservoir?


----------



## elderan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> Cool build, what are those 2 light bolt that below the reservoir?


Those are EK-XTOP Revo D5 pumps. I wrapped them in RGB light strips so they show through the clear top. They are much brighter in the picture than in person. They fit the overall lighting very well. Everything except the fans are RGB Aura controllable, so can make them any color.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-plexi-incl-sleeved-pump
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MV46VAF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## smithydan




----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> Did a new build a few months ago, finally cleaned it up some. This is my first hard tube build and my second water cooling build.
> 
> Specs are Intel 7700k, ASUS ROG Maximus IX Extreme, 2 1080 TI, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB PCIe NVMe, G.SKILL 32GB TridentZ RGB
> Cooling equipment 2x EK-XTOP Revo D5, 3x XSPC RX480 Rads, 12x Corsair ML120 Pro LED, All Bitspower fittings.
> 
> Link to the album
> http://imgur.com/a/mFsQd


Wow. Were the air pockets / bubbles a nightmare with those three sideways mounted rads?

What kind of temps are you getting out of that thing?


----------



## elderan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Wow. Were the air pockets / bubbles a nightmare with those three sideways mounted rads?
> 
> What kind of temps are you getting out of that thing?


Bubbles took a few days, but the way the reservoirs is setup it allows for easier removal.

CPU 33min 79max
GPU 24min 36max


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*


This is kind of an irritation to me. EVGA getting the love over all others.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is kind of an irritation to me. EVGA getting the love over all others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's part of a series, Asus and MSI already happened before.


----------



## saint19

Here is mine.

It is not as good as all those over here but works perfectly for now


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> Bubbles took a few days, but the way the reservoirs is setup it allows for easier removal.
> 
> CPU 33min 79max
> GPU 24min 36max


CPU seems a bit warm...


----------



## elderan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> CPU seems a bit warm...


The 7700K runs super hot.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> The 7700K runs super hot.


Intel strikes again, luckily they have a Tj-Max at 100*c... Better than AMD, though with such crappy TIM they kind of have to.

Oh, and that's a cool build you've got there...







Can't stop myself from doing puns, they are just to awesome


----------



## looniam

^practicing being a dad if not one already


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Here is mine.
> 
> It is not as good as all those over here but works perfectly for now


Nice rig. I'm assuming that's a sound card in the top slot? Maybe an ssd?

Reason I ask, you have a great looking gpu/backplate there with the Galax HoF and its being partially blocked by whatever that is. Move that thing down and the HoF up!


----------



## DarthBaggins

My money is on sound card


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> My money is on sound card


Yeah having looked at it closely again it certainly looks like a sound card. Drives me nuts it covering up that gorgeous card!

He doesn't deserve it... Send it to me immediately!

JK of course.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love my SB-Z I got from the marketplace for a steal. Huge improvement over onboard, can't wait to hook it up to my Pioneer VSX-520 back in GA
But mine doesn't cover my GPU


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This is kind of an irritation to me. EVGA getting the love over all others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's part of a series, Asus and MSI already happened before.
Click to expand...

No longer irritated. Thanks for the clarification VSG.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Love my SB-Z I got from the marketplace for a steal. Huge improvement over onboard, can't wait to hook it up to my Pioneer VSX-520 back in GA
> But mine doesn't cover my GPU


Before I watercooled my gpu I had my SB vertically mounted in my fractal case. Covered the gpu a bit but it was just a zotac amp extreme. Soon as it got a block, down went the SB to one of the lower slots.


----------



## prznar1

Fans, fans, fans, what fans you should not buy.

After some time i can easly say, do not buy those fans. http://eu.coolermaster.com/uk/cooling/case-fan/silencio-fp-120-pwm/

Bought 3 of them in 2016-12-18

One of them is whining when is cold. 2nd one just started to make crackling sound from bearing. 3rd one is working fine, so far.....

Fans are perfoming well if they work well. :S


----------



## n8t1308

Anyone have an opinion on the Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 420? Im diving into watercooling soon with my sig rig and need a radiator







Looking at the Monsta version as well of the same rad although the fin numbers are identical just a thicker rad....using Corsair ML140'2 for rad fans


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n8t1308*
> 
> Anyone have an opinion on the Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 420? Im diving into watercooling soon with my sig rig and need a radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the Monsta version as well of the same rad although the fin numbers are identical just a thicker rad....using Corsair ML140'2 for rad fans


Unless you get the X-flow version, its a totally PITA to bleed.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n8t1308*
> 
> Anyone have an opinion on the Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 420? Im diving into watercooling soon with my sig rig and need a radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the Monsta version as well of the same rad although the fin numbers are identical just a thicker rad....using Corsair ML140'2 for rad fans


The rads are good performers, but alphacool as a company is garbage and don't expect them to honor any kind of warranty.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Unless you get the X-flow version, its a totally PITA to bleed.


Not sure I agree with that... it depends much more on orientation. I haven't noticed any problems with mine and I have several UT60s (as well as XT45s and an ST30). Definitely no different than EK's radiators in that regard... possibly a little easier in fact.

As far as the 'company being crap' comment above... yeah I'd agree with that... but then again unless it was a manufacturing defect (in which case you would return to the vendor not the manufacturer) it's likely user error (uninhibited corrosion, lack of proper flushing initially, etc.).

Not saying I'm a huge fan of Alphacool (and I hate their business practices of late), but we are talking about a cost similar or less than that of a GPU waterblock - and _far_ less than a decent GPU itself - and yet almost all of us replace those every 1-2 product cycles it seems.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Not sure I agree with that... it depends much more on orientation. I haven't noticed any problems with mine and I have several UT60s (as well as XT45s and an ST30). Definitely no different than EK's radiators in that regard... possibly a little easier in fact.
> 
> As far as the 'company being crap' comment above... yeah I'd agree with that... but then again unless it was a manufacturing defect (in which case you would return to the vendor not the manufacturer) it's likely user error (uninhibited corrosion, lack of proper flushing initially, etc.).
> 
> Not saying I'm a huge fan of Alphacool (and I hate their business practices of late), but we are talking about a cost similar or less than that of a GPU waterblock - and _far_ less than a decent GPU itself - and yet almost all of us replace those every 1-2 product cycles it seems.


Probably my setup because my Quad 120mm UT60s were are total nightmare to bleed, the air needed to travel the whole length of the rad before making their way to the other side. Kinda regretted not getting the X-flow version.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Probably my setup because my Quad 120mm UT60s were are total nightmare to bleed, the air needed to travel the whole length of the rad before making their way to the other side. Kinda regretted not getting the X-flow version.


Like any other rad in that regard, the extra ports help to make some fancy set-ups though which again can make it even harder to bleed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ^practicing being a dad if not one already


Not quite there yet, I'm actually far more fond of seeing people cringe when I use them rather than thinking they are hilarious in their own regard


----------



## orbitalwalsh

test loop fully complete ! unfortunately I have a B-grade 7700k and need 1.4v+ to hit 5Ghz










Temps site at 70c for Asus Real Bench, 60 for Intel Extreme Stress & 50c for Unigine Valley- CPU had been de-lidded aswell

GPU sits at 43c Under load current at 2130mhz and 12Gbps



Got to love Alpha's new block


----------



## Radmanhs

I'm moving in a couple weeks, so i get to have fun draining and cleaning my loop soon. This is what my loop looks like atm. I wanted your guy's opinions (yes, I assumed your genders) on if I should stick with the pastel blue, or go with something else. The only other blue in the system are a couple cables and the light on the front panel.



Next up is a little problem that has been bugging me for a long time. At the top of the res, because there is little to no circulation, the color separates and leaves a dark ring at the top of the res. I can get rid of it for a few days with a quick shake to the whole pc, but I imagine you guys can figure out why i dont like doing that. Is there an easy way to get rid of that, without completely redesigning my loop? Maybe a different coolant?


----------



## n8t1308

I appreciate the replies on my post about the alphacool radiators! I'd consider other radiators as you all have suggested but it sounds like the wife already hit the submit button in checkout haha she said it's a surprise on which particular rad she got me between the Monsta 80mm or the 60mm. Just going to have to make it work now


----------



## dicom

Which coolant are you using?
I hear that Mayham had problems with color.
Maybe to try EK Navy Blue, but it is not pastel:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-navy-blue-concentrate-100ml

P.S i think that blue color is ok.


----------



## SpikeV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ,been saying this for years........
> 
> People get hung up on metals in their loop... and they should. However,the volume of said material in the loop has more relevance to reaction than just the presence of the material itself.
> You want to use Alu/Copper/Silver/Dried bogey/Whatever together?.....Then find a sacrificial anode material you can live with.


Greetings from a Noob . . .

Here is my ticket for entry - first build (which has now gotten me completely hooked) : BAYNORATOR 1 https://pcpartpicker.com/b/2JV6Mp


And, now . . . on the steep learning curve (and the battle of the budget): [Build Log] Ice Dragon _Parvum custom S2.5 mATX - Overclock.net


. . . with an interesting boro spin


So . . . my first naive question . . . the current crop of AIOs seem to have copper CPU / GPU plates and Alum rads . . . and come with decent warranties . . . How does that work in the world of galvanic corrosion?

. . . second naive question . . . if one were to seek Alum fittings (of some quality), are these available (since EK is only teasing the market at this point . . . and I doubt they make these themselves)???

Cheers


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I'm moving in a couple weeks, so i get to have fun draining and cleaning my loop soon. This is what my loop looks like atm. I wanted your guy's opinions (yes, I assumed your genders) on if I should stick with the pastel blue, or go with something else. The only other blue in the system are a couple cables and the light on the front panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is a little problem that has been bugging me for a long time. At the top of the res, because there is little to no circulation, the color separates and leaves a dark ring at the top of the res. I can get rid of it for a few days with a quick shake to the whole pc, but I imagine you guys can figure out why i dont like doing that. Is there an easy way to get rid of that, without completely redesigning my loop? Maybe a different coolant?


Personally I like my colours accents to be understated doing a black/grey design all over with just a few accents here and there, so I would have preferred clear fluid. Still the build looks gorgeous as is so, and unless its grey, white or clear then I wouldn't go for another colour than what you have unless you intend to swap out cables and all that.

One way of fixing the colour separation would be to get some flow to the top of the reservoir, which can be done by adding a "aqua-pipe" or piece of rigid tubing that goes from the intake to the top of the reservoir. That way you don't have to redo your loop, but it also needs to be long enough so that there is a fair amount of turbulence in the top of the reservoir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpikeV*
> 
> Greetings from a Noob . . .
> 
> Here is my ticket for entry - first build (which has now gotten me completely hooked) : BAYNORATOR 1 https://pcpartpicker.com/b/2JV6Mp
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, now . . . on the steep learning curve (and the battle of the budget): [Build Log] Ice Dragon _Parvum custom S2.5 mATX - Overclock.net
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . with an interesting boro spin
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So . . . my first naive question . . . the current crop of AIOs seem to have copper CPU / GPU plates and Alum rads . . . and come with decent warranties . . . How does that work in the world of galvanic corrosion?
> 
> . . . second naive question . . . if one were to seek Alum fittings (of some quality), are these available (since EK is only teasing the market at this point . . . and I doubt they make these themselves)???
> 
> Cheers


As far as I know EK is the only one doing all aluminium components, and they did say that they are going to release angled fittings this autumn. Other than that, as far as I know they manufacture most of their stuff in house, and aluminium fittings isn't exactly a common thing.

As for what I would recommend... get copper/nickel/brass parts instead, they perform a bit better and there is a lot more to choose from. If you list the stores you are looking at and what parts/budget you are in then I could put together a list of parts that would be as easy on the wallet as possible, but if you want to use the EK kit then I'm afraid you have to look at only EK parts for it as well (unless it's radiators as you can get those fairly easily in alu).

And yes, galvanic corrosion is a real issue that should not be toyed with when it comes to such expensive parts. It can be slowed down (not stopped) by utilizing a glycol based coolant, but those are fairly expensive to start with so I'd be far more comfortable recommending a kit that has no mixed metals (or at least metals that mix well together).


----------



## Radmanhs

think i found my aqua pipe. As long as it will fit in the same threads as the fitting that goes to the rest of the system, everything should be good (bitspower Z tank if that matters)... Now its just going to be a huge pain to refill it since the majority of the res wont drain into the loop.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/misc-brand-reservoirs-parts-accessories/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm.html#Additional-Information


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As far as I know EK is the only one doing all aluminium components, and they did say that they are going to release angled fittings this autumn. Other than that, as far as I know they manufacture most of their stuff in house, and aluminium fittings isn't exactly a common thing.
> quote]
> 
> sure its made in china and shipped to the EU and assembled by staff


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> think i found my aqua pipe. As long as it will fit in the same threads as the fitting that goes to the rest of the system, everything should be good (bitspower Z tank if that matters)... Now its just going to be a huge pain to refill it since the majority of the res wont drain into the loop.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/misc-brand-reservoirs-parts-accessories/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm.html#Additional-Information


Should be fine, that's the way it works on mine at least.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> sure its made in china and shipped to the EU and assembled by staff


They may very well be "designed in Slovenia" but "made in China". That said things like this is still very niche and they are produced in a fairly low quantity, so I wouldn't be surprised if they are manufactured in Slovenia. Still there may be "copies" circulating on Aliexpress, but considering brass fittings are so much more common I still think EK would be the best place to get aluminium fittings.

Edit: something was really wrong with how those quotes were set up...


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Nice rig. I'm assuming that's a sound card in the top slot? Maybe an ssd?
> 
> Reason I ask, you have a great looking gpu/backplate there with the Galax HoF and its being partially blocked by whatever that is. Move that thing down and the HoF up!


Yes, it is a sound card.

I will try to move it to another slot, but I think that "block" one of the fans of the GPU...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Personally I like my colours accents to be understated doing a black/grey design all over with just a few accents here and there, so I would have preferred clear fluid. Still the build looks gorgeous as is so, and unless its grey, white or clear then I wouldn't go for another colour than what you have unless you intend to swap out cables and all that.
> 
> One way of fixing the colour separation would be to get some flow to the top of the reservoir, which can be done by adding a "aqua-pipe" or piece of rigid tubing that goes from the intake to the top of the reservoir. That way you don't have to redo your loop, but it also needs to be long enough so that there is a fair amount of turbulence in the top of the reservoir.
> As far as I know EK is the only one doing all aluminium components, and they did say that they are going to release angled fittings this autumn. *Other than that, as far as I know they manufacture most of their stuff in house, and aluminium fittings isn't exactly a common thing.*
> 
> As for what I would recommend... get copper/nickel/brass parts instead, they perform a bit better and there is a lot more to choose from. If you list the stores you are looking at and what parts/budget you are in then I could put together a list of parts that would be as easy on the wallet as possible, but if you want to use the EK kit then I'm afraid you have to look at only EK parts for it as well (unless it's radiators as you can get those fairly easily in alu).
> 
> And yes, galvanic corrosion is a real issue that should not be toyed with when it comes to such expensive parts. It can be slowed down (not stopped) by utilizing a glycol based coolant, but those are fairly expensive to start with so I'd be far more comfortable recommending a kit that has no mixed metals (or at least metals that mix well together).


EK have no in house manufacturing capability what so ever,everything is made externally and assembled in house.


----------



## SpikeV

@Rainmaker91
Quote:


> As for what I would recommend... get copper/nickel/brass parts instead, they perform a bit better and there is a lot more to choose from. If you list the stores you are looking at and what parts/budget you are in then I could put together a list of parts that would be as easy on the wallet as possible, but if you want to use the EK kit then I'm afraid you have to look at only EK parts for it as well (unless it's radiators as you can get those fairly easily in alu)


.

So here's the situation [apologies up front for all the detail ahead !!! ] . . . keep in mind I am on a learning curve and will use the iterations to compare performance improvements - The single source of TRUTH !!!

Ice Dragon will be a milestone project which will include two full custom loops, borosilicate based, for both CPU and GPU.
Version one, however, will use two AIOs - Deepcool Captain 240 for CPU and EVGA 1080 hybrid for the GPU . . . and to make it FUN - an XSPC reservor will be introduced into the initial CPU loop and also introduce custom art glass boro tubing into the build. This means that at least initially (likely a couple of months) the supplied AIO Alum Rad will be utilized (if practical). Also likely - the Rad will be first upgrade (to copper) once version 1 is stabilized (and the budget is refreshed !)




. . . prototype


So far, for these few required fittings -12mm (eight or ten - depending on config) - BPs bought from CaseKing (I live in Denmark) are ridiculously expensive vs Barrow bought from China [even after DK adds 25% tax, plus a customs fee equal to cost of the parts] at less than half the BP cost.

So, any experienced advice is greatly appreciated. . . . did I mention - I am on a learning curve?!!!

Cheers


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> EK have no in house manufacturing capability what so ever,everything is made externally and assembled in house.


right... so seems I was wrong on that account. Still not easy to get aluminium fittings though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpikeV*
> 
> @Rainmaker91
> .
> 
> So here's the situation [apologies up front for all the detail ahead !!! ] . . . keep in mind I am on a learning curve and will use the iterations to compare performance improvements - The single source of TRUTH !!!
> 
> Ice Dragon will be a milestone project which will include two full custom loops, borosilicate based, for both CPU and GPU.
> Version one, however, will use two AIOs - Deepcool Captain 240 for CPU and EVGA 1080 hybrid for the GPU . . . and to make it FUN - an XSPC reservor will be introduced into the initial CPU loop and also introduce custom art glass boro tubing into the build. This means that at least initially (likely a couple of months) the supplied AIO Alum Res will be utilized (if practical). Also likely - the Res will be first upgrade (to copper) once version 1 is stabilized (and the budget is refreshed !)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . prototype
> 
> 
> So far, for these few required fittings -12mm (eight or ten - depending on config) - BPs bought from CaseKing (I live in Denmark) are ridiculously expensive vs Barrow bought from China [even after DK adds 25% tax, plus a customs fee equal to cost of the parts] at less than half the BP cost.
> 
> So, any experienced advice is greatly appreciated. . . . did I mention - I am on a learning curve?!!!
> 
> Cheers


No worries BP stuff is also super expensive here in Norway, and the rest of the world for that matter. While I have used barrow fittings in the past and am indeed using some at the moment, the swivel fittings (which you will have to use a lot of with glass pipes) can be prone to leaking as the QC is not on par with for example bits power. That said there are other manufacturers that are worth it to look at like EKWB's regular fittings, and Alphacool fittings offer more for the money and are readily available in continental Europe. There are other brands to consider as well, and after buying some myself I would personally recommend the Monsoon Eco v2 fittings as they include O-rings so that it can be used on several different OD tubing. Which is really practical considering some stuff is made for imperial measurements while others for the metric.

As for that reservoir, I assume it's the Ion reservoir? that's going to be an issue to use with an aluminium loop as the threaded parts on that are brass and not aluminium, the internals are regular acrylic so that doesn't pose an issue. The only thing on it that is aluminium is a thin box that's placed over the reservoir itself. So unless you plan on using the EKWB aluminium kit with corresponding parts I would personally wait to use a reservoir until you build the entire thing in it's final state.

Now for stores. Caseking is decent, but there are options in Sweden, Norway (not sure how the tax is handled since it's technically not part of the EU), Netherlands, France, the UK and as far as I remember in Denmark as well. There is also used parts, which is a decent option.


----------



## AGR-13

So here my watercooled rig - I just love this In Win case so much!











Here's also a vid to the story








https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57uL6v-BXLY


----------



## SpikeV

@Rainmaker91
Awesome information . .. thanks so much









Cheers,


[side note - the Alum housing on the Ion res is astonishingly thick - I was quite surprised . . . could possibly be used as a weapon !!!]


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Looks good.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Been working on the Metis again, it contains a weird mix of some exotic components.
> 
> Water;
> 
> CPU - Anfi-Tec Soleil02
> MB - MIPS southbridge
> GPU - Watercool Heatkiller GPU-X³ GTX 970 Ni-Bl w/ matching Heatkiller backplate
> Pump - 2x Koolance PMP-300
> Res - Alphacool Cape Corp AGB2
> Rads - EK Coolstream PE 120
> Controller - AquaComputer Poweradjust 3





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Looks bauce as always.


----------



## bluedevil

Put this together a few days ago..


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> think i found my aqua pipe. As long as it will fit in the same threads as the fitting that goes to the rest of the system, everything should be good (bitspower Z tank if that matters)... Now its just going to be a huge pain to refill it since the majority of the res wont drain into the loop.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/misc-brand-reservoirs-parts-accessories/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm.html#Additional-Information


That pipe will not work for you I'm afraid. EK uses a non standard thread size on the internal ports of their res to suit pipe that size.

What you need is one that fits into g1/4, but you also can't put two fittings into the same port one on each side. So, what you need is a sort of pass-through design that fits into the port on the res but still allows another fitting to be connected.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-female-g1-4-shining-silver-aqua-pipe-ii-fitting.html


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Put this together a few days ago..


All of the lines almost have the same curvature. Looks rad!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Put this together a few days ago..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!


Soft tubing done right!

The coolant is a nice shade of blue.
I like the look of the Swiftech fittings, don't see them very often.
Same for the Swiftech gpu block.

Edit:
AND the cpu block!

Very unique reservoir mount they have for their kits, looks really sharp.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AGR-13*
> 
> So here my watercooled rig - I just love this In Win case so much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's also a vid to the story
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57uL6v-BXLY


Really awesome looking build.


----------



## AGR-13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Really awesome looking build.


thx for the nice feedback. I took some time to build it, but it's really fun now!


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> @wirefox
> 
> What is that pump?


Not sure if you've received an answer.
It's the Enermax NEOChanger


----------



## Bogga

Gotta start a build log... another awesome package arrived today!



I had to order a dr.drop or I'd get "internet-forum-decapitated" here when I was to check for leakage


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Put this together a few days ago..


I like it! Are these Swiftech parts going to be reviewed on the OCN channel? Just curious because I used to work for them.


----------



## skupples

long time no see folks!

I'm a bit rusty, so I need some advice/refreshing.

I recently noticed that my reservoir was below the dip stick, so my system has been gulping air during restart for months n months, not too big a deal, and easy to fix... however, something weird happened when I went to make use of my handydandy top mounted bleeder valves that have served me so well in the past. I opened the valve just a tiny bit, expecting the normal rush of air & water, but NOTHING happened. I can even open the valve ALL the way, n nothing comes out at all.

It's the last radiator in my loop, meaning its the one that feeds the reservoir.

I haven't checked yet, but I'm almost positive one of two DDCs has finally failed after 5 years. (i'll check after work, but figured i'd drop this weirdness here anyways)

Is it possible for something like that to happen if you aren't moving & pushing enough water?


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> Not sure if you've received an answer.
> It's the Enermax NEOChanger


Thank you


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> long time no see folks!
> 
> I'm a bit rusty, so I need some advice/refreshing.
> 
> I recently noticed that my reservoir was below the dip stick, so my system has been gulping air during restart for months n months, not too big a deal, and easy to fix... however, something weird happened when I went to make use of my handydandy top mounted bleeder valves that have served me so well in the past. I opened the valve just a tiny bit, expecting the normal rush of air & water, but NOTHING happened. I can even open the valve ALL the way, n nothing comes out at all.
> 
> It's the last radiator in my loop, meaning its the one that feeds the reservoir.
> 
> I haven't checked yet, but I'm almost positive one of two DDCs has finally failed after 5 years. (i'll check after work, but figured i'd drop this weirdness here anyways)
> 
> Is it possible for something like that to happen if you aren't moving & pushing enough water?


That depends- it this bleed valve the top of the loop? If so, there shouldn't be any water coming out unless the loop is completely filled. I'd just start by topping off and running the bubbles out as needed.

As far as the pump, are they positioned where you can manually check by touch (assumnig there are no rpm wires in place)?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> That depends- it this bleed valve the top of the loop? If so, there shouldn't be any water coming out unless the loop is completely filled. I'd just start by topping off and running the bubbles out as needed.
> 
> As far as the pump, are they positioned where you can manually check by touch (assumnig there are no rpm wires in place)?


yessir, it's the highest and final radiator in the loop, which then feeds into the reservoir, of course.

I've been dealing with this same setup for almost 4 years now, and I've never not seen water or air come rushing out of the bleeder when I crack it by even the slightest bit. That's why its where it is, as it makes it really easy to fill & purge the system.

as to the pumps... They do have a tach, but only one of them reports because I have them hooked to the Aquaero via a Y cable, n lucky me, the one that reports is the one that's still working

I have some X1 Clear coming in from Performance-PCs tomorrow, so that's when I'll ACTUALLY do physical troubleshooting.

I love how Performance PCs still kills it with the shipping rates. $9 shipping for fedex 3-7 day, luckily we're both in Florida, and only 200 miles apart, so i'll get it tomorrow either way. Gotta love that FedEx in-state overnight guarantee.

$17 bottle of coolant
$1 of taxation
$9 of shipping
-package is only being moved 200 miles, within state lines


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yessir, it's the highest and final radiator in the loop, which then feeds into the reservoir, of course.
> 
> I've been dealing with this same setup for almost 4 years now, and I've never not seen water or air come rushing out of the bleeder when I crack it by even the slightest bit. That's why its where it is, as it makes it really easy to fill & purge the system.
> 
> as to the pumps... They do have a tach, but only one of them reports because I have them hooked to the Aquaero via a Y cable, n lucky me, the one that reports is the one that's still working
> 
> I have some X1 Clear coming in from Performance-PCs tomorrow, so that's when I'll ACTUALLY do physical troubleshooting.
> 
> I love how Performance PCs still kills it with the shipping rates. $9 shipping for fedex 3-7 day, luckily we're both in Florida, and only 200 miles apart, so i'll get it tomorrow either way. Gotta love that FedEx in-state overnight guarantee.
> 
> $17 bottle of coolant
> $1 of taxation
> $9 of shipping
> -package is only being moved 200 miles, within state lines


Not if you live in LA... Their shipping rates are murder for us.

I've noticed PPC popping up on Amazon, finally.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> long time no see folks!
> 
> I'm a bit rusty, so I need some advice/refreshing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I recently noticed that my reservoir was below the dip stick, so my system has been gulping air during restart for months n months, not too big a deal, and easy to fix... however, something weird happened when I went to make use of my handydandy top mounted bleeder valves that have served me so well in the past. I opened the valve just a tiny bit, expecting the normal rush of air & water, but NOTHING happened. I can even open the valve ALL the way, n nothing comes out at all.
> 
> It's the last radiator in my loop, meaning its the one that feeds the reservoir.
> 
> I haven't checked yet, but I'm almost positive one of two DDCs has finally failed after 5 years. (i'll check after work, but figured i'd drop this weirdness here anyways)
> 
> Is it possible for something like that to happen if you aren't moving & pushing enough water?


hey skup!

sorry i don't have anything for your problem but like to ask if you recall your post using those home depot filters to flush those rads you picked up. i first saw it linked in another of your posts but don't recall where.

trying to find it in your post history is booooooorrrrrrring.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Not if you live in LA... Their shipping rates are murder for us.
> 
> I've noticed PPC popping up on Amazon, finally.


Microcenter carries quite a bit in the water cooling goodies, well the two in GA do (I pushed for it when I worked with them)


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Microcenter carries quite a bit in the water cooling goodies, well the two in GA do (I pushed for it when I worked with them)


There's one about 40 miles from me which is about 50 mins one way, and yeah they've come in handy so many times if I'm missing a part for a build or something breaks.. They carry a lot of WC parts.

Fry's is a lot closer to me, but you never know what you get there, 90% of anything I buy there I end up returning for being defective, broken, or just the wrong thing... it's nuts. I've stopped going there for anything computer related.


----------



## DarthBaggins

For me the distance to MC or FRY's was the same, happened to live smack in the middle of all 4 locations (2 - MC and 2 - Frys). Plus it helps MC has a in w/ EK products and even from PPC's, vs Fry's seems to have more love for Thermalfake


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> For me the distance to MC or FRY's was the same, happened to live smack in the middle of all 4 locations (2 - MC and 2 - Frys). Plus it helps MC has a in w/ EK products and even from PPC's, vs Fry's seems to have more love for Thermalfake


Yeah out here where I am we only have a fry's and from were I was orig in the east coast we had MC. They both have good strong points and bad but I have to admit fry's WC stock sucks lol...it is all TT and not even their current stock or at least at my store. Also, they never have prices on CPUs like MC does. Believe it or not you can find some products on Amazon from a couple of WC sellers, it's usually a trade off for me, sometimes prices are a little higher but shipping is cheaper and faster on Amazon but I primarily shop at PPCS, between my experience with their customer svc and their product stock....I wish we had a MC out here lol


----------



## KCDC

I believe all Fry's has in the WC world is Thermaltake stuff, plus it just takes longer to get anything done there

MC I can order my part online, set it for store pickup. It's ready for pickup by the time I get there. I bypass all the normal cashier lines and go to their online order pick-up which never has a line. I'm in and out in 5 minutes. Fry's does online order store pickup, but still have to wait in their annoyingly long lines. I'm always stuck there for at least 45 minutes. In the long run, drive time included, I'd spend less time dealing with Fry's, but their quality is just horrid. You really gotta check what you're buying to make sure it's not broken, open or damaged in any way. MC always has their products fresh and clean.

Also, Newegg store pickup is nice as well if it's in their local LA warehouse. Their little storefront's kinda neat. They just started this express local delivery service for 10 bucks flat rate if you live in the area, same day delivery... also rad. Used that a couple times.


----------



## dwolvin

That's sweet, I have always been a distilled and a few drops of 'killer type, but I really think I'm going to use some coolant this next teardown. A little color doesnt hurt and especially the engine based stuff is about as cheap as distilled.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> That's sweet, I have always been a distilled and a few drops of 'killer type, but I really think I'm going to use some coolant this next teardown. A little color doesnt hurt and especially the engine based stuff is about as cheap as distilled.


You might wanna re-think using coolant that's meant for cars....there are a few post about it....I know its def not good it you use anything but acrylic tube and its not a good thermal conductor...it has good rust inhibiting factors but its viscosity is lower as well. Your temps will def suffer a little...if its the color youre going after just add some dye to either a clear coolant or distilled with additives.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> hey skup!
> 
> sorry i don't have anything for your problem but like to ask if you recall your post using those home depot filters to flush those rads you picked up. i first saw it linked in another of your posts but don't recall where.
> 
> trying to find it in your post history is booooooorrrrrrring.


its in my signature







"rad flusher guide"

however, someone else did it for way cheaper, I'm just having an issue remembering who.

all you really need is the filter, pond pump, buckets, & the right fittings to mate the pond pump.


----------



## looniam

i admit i lied, your post history is quite far from boring, i was too lazy to search.

but i swear i did look at your sig! guess its age and needing glasses now . . .

10x!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i admit i lied, your post history is quite far from boring, i was too lazy to search.
> 
> but i swear i did look at your sig! guess its age and needing glasses now . . .
> 
> 10x!


Skup was far from boring . . . .

Much like our beloved TCO


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> You might wanna re-think using coolant that's meant for cars....there are a few post about it....I know its def not good it you use anything but acrylic tube and its not a good thermal conductor...it has good rust inhibiting factors but its viscosity is lower as well. Your temps will def suffer a little...if its the color youre going after just add some dye to either a clear coolant or distilled with additives.


I use diluted Car coolant for my loops . Drained the cards , cpu block and rads last week and they are perfect and clean .

Very good for 3 years usage but my loops are not your average setups

Green coolant for copper and red coolant for aluminum .









Same applies for automotive cooling ^^^^^^


----------



## hadesfactor

No kidding what kinds of loop do u have....i have to admit my knowledge definitely isnt 1st hand so i stand corrected just what ive read here and other places...i do know they have great lubricating properties but always thought that for a pc loop they werent good


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yessir, it's the highest and final radiator in the loop, which then feeds into the reservoir, of course.
> 
> I've been dealing with this same setup for almost 4 years now, and I've never not seen water or air come rushing out of the bleeder when I crack it by even the slightest bit. That's why its where it is, as it makes it really easy to fill & purge the system.
> 
> as to the pumps... They do have a tach, but only one of them reports because I have them hooked to the Aquaero via a Y cable, n lucky me, the one that reports is the one that's still working
> 
> I have some X1 Clear coming in from Performance-PCs tomorrow, so that's when I'll ACTUALLY do physical troubleshooting.
> 
> I love how Performance PCs still kills it with the shipping rates. $9 shipping for fedex 3-7 day, luckily we're both in Florida, and only 200 miles apart, so i'll get it tomorrow either way. Gotta love that FedEx in-state overnight guarantee.
> 
> $17 bottle of coolant
> $1 of taxation
> $9 of shipping
> -package is only being moved 200 miles, within state lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not if you live in LA... Their shipping rates are murder for us.
> 
> I've noticed PPC popping up on Amazon, finally.
Click to expand...

Even worse when you live here in Washington. I generally wait to order during holiday sales which slows shipping down and discount essentially makes shipping moot.









~Ceadder


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Even worse when you live here in Washington. I generally wait to order during holiday sales which slows shipping down and discount essentially makes shipping moot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Check if you guys have a newegg warehouse, their express local shipping is awesome!!!


----------



## Rainmaker91

I entered the first stages of my rebuild a couple of days ago, and since this is going to be a fairly time consuming build I chose to move my build over in to a substitute case so that I can still use it. This has given me a bit of time to actually look closer at my components and while there have been no operational issues since I first started using it a year ago everything wasn't all unicorn and rainbows. Other than the expected clouding of my Advanced LRT tubing (thanks Primochill, you're great at making "frosted" tubing), there seems to be some fairly severe corrosion issues.

The thing is, I took every precaution that I thought was necessary. Maybe there is an issue with my additives? There have only ever been 3 things in the loop, Primochill SysPrep, demineralized water and "PTNuke".


Spoiler: Additives used:








My CPU block has some fairly visible blue lines and a clear spot of copper


Spoiler: CPU Block:








The GPU block also has similar corrosion signs, but here I also see brown spots on the jet-plate which would indicate that it's not only the nickel/copper that is reacting.


Spoiler: GPU Block:










There also seems to be some issues with the fittings as well. The plating is stripped in some places and bare brass is visible. Not sure if it shows well in the pictures (I had to do manual focus on some of them to see the inside as I don't have a macro lens).


Spoiler: Swiftech compression fittings:










Oh and just to show the already very well known Advanced LRT issue


Anyone know what specifically could cause this issue? and what additives would be recommended to use with de-mineralized water?

Edit: The blocks are being changed either way and I'm looking at Mahyems Blitz kit to clean out any gunk left in my rads. As for additives for my water mixture, I'm looking at Mayhems various mixtures (x-1, xt-1 and XT-1 Nuke), as well as the EKWB Cryofuel (If I understood correctly that one is made by Mayhem? or that may be some other ones) though I am concerned about adding ethylene glycol to a loop which has acrylic in it especially considering the similar properties as ethyl alcohol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I use diluted Car coolant for my loops . Drained the cards , cpu block and rads last week and they are perfect and clean .
> 
> Very good for 3 years usage but my loops are not your average setups
> 
> *Green coolant for copper and red coolant for aluminum* .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same applies for automotive cooling ^^^^^^


Colour has no relation to protection,always check the bottle.

Alternatively,use Sentinel X series CH inhibitors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> There have only ever been 3 things in the loop, Primochill SysPrep, demineralized water and "PTNuke".


Nowhere in that list is an anti corrosive....but you have had acid,aggressive water base and the Nuke to make it a battery........


----------



## Shadowline2553

What would be the best coolant I could use in my upcoming PETG hardline build? I have two bottles of Thermaltake Coolant 1000 Clear but they contain polypropylene glycol...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> What would be the best coolant I could use in my upcoming PETG hardline build? I have two bottles of Thermaltake Coolant 1000 Clear but they contain polypropylene glycol...


Mayhems X1 works. Or mayhems pastel (not pastel extreme but just normal pastel.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Mayhems X1 works. Or mayhems pastel (not pastel extreme but just normal pastel.


I tend to stay away from dyed coolants, I run coloured tubing instead. That was my approach with my current machine and I was going to go that way with my new one. I was thinking on using Monsoon red 16mm tubing and fittings with some kind of clear coolant if I can find a good one.


----------



## emsj86

Mayhems X1 comes in clear as well


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Even worse when you live here in Washington. I generally wait to order during holiday sales which slows shipping down and discount essentially makes shipping moot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check if you guys have a newegg warehouse, their express local shipping is awesome!!!
Click to expand...

I go through Newegg and Amazon as well. We don't have a local warehouse in Washington. Everything comes from down in SoCal an back East. My watercooling gear however, comes from Florida.









~Ceadder


----------



## Shadowline2553

You guys have it nice... my next order from Performance PCs is gonna kill my card... hell a fifth of the cost of the order is in the shipping, and even more is taken with the damned currency conversion.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Colour has no relation to protection,always check the bottle.


I suspect they were referring to the different chemical compositions that tend to be in the "old standard" green coolant (which is what, ethylene glycol based?) versus red and/or orange ones like Dexcool which use a different chemical composition.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Toyota uses a Pinkish which last I remembered was EG based with some other additives


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> *Colour has no relation to protection,always check the bottle.*
> 
> Alternatively,use Sentinel X series CH inhibitors.
> Nowhere in that list is an anti corrosive....but you have had acid,aggressive water base and the Nuke to make it a battery........


Yes it does mate , automotive coolant yes . Red , pink , alloy rads ect . Green copper .

Ofc always check your specs first








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I suspect they were referring to the different chemical compositions that tend to be in the "old standard" green coolant (which is what, ethylene glycol based?) versus red and/or orange ones like Dexcool which use a different chemical composition.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> *Toyota uses a Pinkish which last I remembered was EG based with some other additives*
Click to expand...

Yep this is correct .

You wont catch me ever putting green coolant in my Lexus or in any alloy headed motor .

But my point here is I use a diluted green coolant in my system cause of the amount of copper in my loop for many years and have had zero issues .

Quite effective actually


----------



## moRReus

Hey guys!

Just some new guy here... Put together a new Ryzen based build that I was planning on doing a double AIO setup with Thermaltake's Core P3 case, but the whole mining price hike happened and I sold my AIO equipped Powercolor Devil 390X and ended up going full on custom loop!

This is not only the first time I've stuck with a very specific theme, but this is also my very first water cooled loop ever. I've looked into water cooling a long time ago, but that was when I was young and could never really afford the extra costs. Things are different now and I began researching again, planning, and picked out all my components.



Spoiler: Computer Components



Thermaltake Core P3
Corsair CX750W
Asrock X370 Taichi
AMD Ryzen 1500X
G.Skill Trident Z 3200 8GB x2
MSI 980Ti V1 [currently dead and soon to be replaced]
Kingston HyperX 120GB SSD boot drive
Seagate FireCuda 2TB 2.5"
W10 Pro 64
Other:
LG 34" 3440x1440
Swans M10 2.1 & Audiotechnica M50
Logitech G810 & G403





Spoiler: Water Cooling Components



XSPC Raystorm Pro CPU block
XSPC Razor GPU full cover block
EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite pump & res
Hardware Labs Nemesis 420GTS rad + 3 Artic Cooling 140MM
AlphaCool compression fittings
Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing
Good 'ol distilled water w/ Kill coil



And of course, a few pictures:


----------



## Costas

You have to be careful with auto coolants just relying on colour...

These days you really need to check the bottle as you cannot always rely on colour as the guide.

Below is an example - The coolant concentrates below are very similar and both are type B silicate free coolants.... yet available in Red and Green...!

The main difference is that the red coolant is designed specifically just for anti corrosion protection as it is not recommended for anti freeze applications whereas the green coolant provides some level of antifreeze protection.

http://www.tectaloy.com.au/product/detail/xtra-cool-concentrate

http://www.tectaloy.com.au/product/detail/xtra-cool-gold-red-concentrate


----------



## Ashcroft

Its also very important to never mix different Auto coolants

This is an example of what can happen

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1069057
Edit: It seems the original images have now been taken down, but to give an idea, the entire block was full of thick goop to the point that flow was completely blocked. Plus there was some damage to the stainless steel plate of the EK block that the misguided user was calling Aluminium.
If you google mixed coolants you can see examples of gunked up car radiators


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> You have to be careful with auto coolants just relying on colour...
> 
> These days you really need to check the bottle as you cannot always rely on colour as the guide.
> 
> Below is an example - The coolant concentrates below are very similar and both are type B silicate free coolants.... yet available in Red and Green...!
> 
> The main difference is that the red coolant is designed specifically just for anti corrosion protection as it is not recommended for anti freeze applications whereas the green coolant provides some level of antifreeze protection.
> 
> http://www.tectaloy.com.au/product/detail/xtra-cool-concentrate
> 
> http://www.tectaloy.com.au/product/detail/xtra-cool-gold-red-concentrate


You had too do that eh











I know the brand I use and ive always gone by my colour code . I did say to check the label .

I still wont put red/Toyota automotive coolant in my loop only in my car cause its mainly ali


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Its also very important to never mix different Auto coolants


Yep exactly that... ^^^^


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Its also very important to never mix different Auto coolants
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yep exactly that... ^^^^
Click to expand...

Add heat and all sorts of reactions occur


----------



## Radmanhs

I was asking about aqua pipes a few days ago, but i just thought of something and was wondering if it would work the same. Instead of buying an aqua pipe, could i just make a makeshift one with a leftover fitting i have and acrylic pipe, so I can make it a bit longer. I have a 200mm res and the pipes are 140mm , or 200. 200 obviously wont work, but I feel 140 might be too short.

This is how my loop is set up, so it mostly recycles the water already in the loop rather than pulling or cycling through the res. The loop goes from the rad below, through the Q-fitting, then out the front and too the left to the pump, with the res sitting on top.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nowhere in that list is an anti corrosive....but you have had acid,aggressive water base and the Nuke to make it a battery........


Sounds like I might as well could have run acetone and end up with the same result... Oh well, do you have any specific recommendations for a simple anti algae additive? I assume I won't need corrosion inhibitors since my new blocks are all copper and I have all copper rads, though there is always the fittings so I guess it couldn't hurt.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I was asking about aqua pipes a few days ago, but i just thought of something and was wondering if it would work the same. Instead of buying an aqua pipe, could i just make a makeshift one with a leftover fitting i have and acrylic pipe, so I can make it a bit longer. I have a 200mm res and the pipes are 140mm , or 200. 200 obviously wont work, but I feel 140 might be too short.
> 
> This is how my loop is set up, so it mostly recycles the water already in the loop rather than pulling or cycling through the res. The loop goes from the rad below, through the Q-fitting, then out the front and too the left to the pump, with the res sitting on top.


As long as the threads inside your reservoir is the correct size I don't see a reason why it shouldn't work. I mean you can already buy acrylic aquapipes anyway so why not just make your own. As for the specific length, get a ruler and measure the inside of your reservoir (or just take the manufacturer measurements and subtract the subtracted space from the end caps). I would personally leave about 1cm (1/4"-1/2") of clearance between the end of the tube and the top of the reservoir, that way you don't inhibit flow.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> You have to be careful with auto coolants just relying on colour...
> 
> These days you really need to check the bottle as you cannot always rely on colour as the guide.
> 
> Below is an example - The coolant concentrates below are very similar and both are type B silicate free coolants.... yet available in Red and Green...!
> 
> The main difference is that the red coolant is designed specifically just for anti corrosion protection as it is not recommended for anti freeze applications whereas the green coolant provides some level of antifreeze protection.
> 
> http://www.tectaloy.com.au/product/detail/xtra-cool-concentrate
> 
> http://www.tectaloy.com.au/product/detail/xtra-cool-gold-red-concentrate


There is only one thing to know the difference of,whether its IAT or OAT,colour is not in consideration,IAT for older cars with yellow metals waterside and OAT for newer cars. Japanese market coolants are all silicate free,regardless of colour and Euro coolants have no phosphates due to water hardness. Salient points: IAT needs changing every 3 years as the inhibitors drop out,OAT every 5.


----------



## Stickeelion

Got a thin layer of gunk in my blocks that flushing won't remove but quick rub with a cloth will. Is it an acceptable practice to remove the top and clean the inside of a graphics card waterblock with damp Q-tips while it's still on the card? I forgot to order new thermal pads and I don't have the time to wait a month for new ones to arrive.

Also any ESD issues with that idea?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Got a thin layer of gunk in my blocks that flushing won't remove but quick rub with a cloth will. Is it an acceptable practice to remove the top and clean the inside of a graphics card waterblock with damp Q-tips while it's still on the card? I forgot to order new thermal pads and I don't have the time to wait a month for new ones to arrive.
> 
> Also any ESD issues with that idea?


you can easily reuse thermal pads, as long as they don't break apart they are fine to use. Even when they do you can technically use them, they only really start to loose their effectiveness if they dry out or get dirty.


----------



## moRReus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> you can easily reuse thermal pads, as long as they don't break apart they are fine to use. Even when they do you can technically use them, they only really start to loose their effectiveness if they dry out or get dirty.


That is good to know... just getting into water cooling myself and figured these were reusable.

Hopefully this isn't against the rules... I had to wait for post approval and my post kinda got buried & already on a page back as a result, but this is my first water cooled setup and wanted to share!:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moRReus*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Just some new guy here... Put together a new Ryzen based build that I was planning on doing a double AIO setup with Thermaltake's Core P3 case, but the whole mining price hike happened and I sold my AIO equipped Powercolor Devil 390X and ended up going full on custom loop!
> This is not only the first time I've stuck with a very specific theme, but this is also my very first water cooled loop ever. I've looked into water cooling a long time ago, but that was when I was young and could never really afford the extra costs. Things are different now and I began researching again, planning, and picked out all my components.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Computer Components
> 
> 
> 
> Thermaltake Core P3
> Corsair CX750W
> Asrock X370 Taichi
> AMD Ryzen 1500X
> G.Skill Trident Z 3200 8GB x2
> MSI 980Ti V1 [currently dead and soon to be replaced]
> Kingston HyperX 120GB SSD boot drive
> Seagate FireCuda 2TB 2.5"
> W10 Pro 64
> Other:
> LG 34" 3440x1440
> Swans M10 2.1 & Audiotechnica M50
> Logitech G810 & G403
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Water Cooling Components
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC Raystorm Pro CPU block
> XSPC Razor GPU full cover block
> EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite pump & res
> Hardware Labs Nemesis 420GTS rad + 3 Artic Cooling 140MM
> AlphaCool compression fittings
> Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing
> Good 'ol distilled water w/ Kill coil
> 
> 
> 
> The full setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Some artsy detail stuff


----------



## Shadowline2553

I had an idea for my loop when it comes to hardline. I was thinking that I would run hardline in my main chamber, and then then drill a hole in the mid-plate separating the main chamber from the basement and put the fitting thread through the hole and attach a flow sensor there before using soft line to run to my bottom rad. Is the fitting thread on Monsoon's Hardline Chain Gun fitting long enough to consider that as an option? Is that a good way of operation? Case I have is Cooler Master Cosmos II.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Salient points: IAT needs changing every 3 years as the inhibitors drop out,OAT every 5.


Good point...!

At least auto coolants can be relatively cheap - so no excuse to not change them say once a year etc.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Is it an acceptable practice to remove the top and clean the inside of a graphics card waterblock with damp Q-tips while it's still on the card?


Yes - Providing that you are careful.

Main thing to watch out for is any remaining fluid which is in the waterblock can spill out onto the PCB when removing the block's cover.

I normally unscrew all the bolts and then hold the assembly upside down (ie. block cover facing down) when actually removing the cover from the block. This lets any excess fluid drip down safely away from the card - If required, mop any excess with a paper towel etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Also any ESD issues with that idea?


Just minimise touching the actual PCB - Ideally working on an anti-static mat like I normally do is the preferred option. You can always work over a metal kitchen sink - Ensure that you also touch the sink first so that you are then typically grounded as well.

Don't wear nylon stockings....









Anti static work surface and area is the best though. These matts are not too expensive, I have a few as I usually do all my electronics (& PC) work on them.

Most people do not realise that static damage usually does not necessarily always destroy components right there and then. In the majority of cases it actually degrades the component which leads to failure at some point down the track - eg. card fails in 6, 12 or 24 months time etc.

So they think they get away without card damage after handling the card without anti-static protection but in reality they are unaware of the damaged caused.

While high static voltages are not always present it is a good idea to play it safe.


----------



## Stickeelion

Thank you for the excellent response costas, I'll do it your way


----------



## poisson21

On the ESD note, (i have ESD practice at my work), make it simple, do not wear rubber/plastic gloves or anything non conductive on your hand/feet (naked feet/hand are good) and wear non synthetic clothes, cotton is the best. The idea behind it is you have to be the most conductive possible YOURSELF to not accumulate any electric charge on you.

edit: The false belief is you have to isolate your work environment, it's the other way, for the best ESD security all your work environment have to be conductive and grounded, yourself included.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> On the ESD note, (i have ESD practice at my work), make it simple, do not wear rubber/plastic gloves or anything non conductive on your hand/feet (naked feet/hand are good) and wear non synthetic clothes, cotton is the best. The idea behind it is you have to be the most conductive possible YOURSELF to not accumulate any electric charge on you.
> 
> edit: The false belief is you have to isolate your work environment, it's the other way, for the best ESD security all your work environment have to be conductive and grounded, yourself included.


Yeah taking the simple precautions are pretty easy....I use a cordless static bracelet and either work on a mat or if you dont have one, a static bag is a cheap and good alternative. Just turn the bag inside out or cut and use the inside, The one that ships with your mobo for instance is large enough to work on. Drier climates are more of an issue then humid ones too. The chances of having ESD damage aren't super big but they're there so for less then $20 you can protect yourself.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Yeah taking the simple precautions are pretty easy....I use a cordless static bracelet and either work on a mat or if you dont have one, a static bag is a cheap and good alternative. *The one that ships with your mobo for instance is large enough to work on.* Drier climates are more of an issue then humid ones too. The chances of having ESD damage aren't super big but they're there so for less then $20 you can protect yourself.


Except its only AS on the inside,not the outside...

I have never used an AS band or mat and I have never shocked a card,however.....Im not everyone so it makes sense if you are nervous about it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just build on a wood table. No way you can ESD your equipment on one.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Except its only AS on the inside,not the outside...
> 
> I have never used an AS band or mat and I have never shocked a card,however.....Im not everyone so it makes sense if you are nervous about it.


You are right it creates a Faraday cage on the inside so items can be shipped and handled etc They are generally coated on the outside and non conductive on the inside so I prob shouldv'e been a bit more clear I have always cut them open and used them as a mat if I didn't have my mat handy lol which prob isn't the best practice but when Im installing my blocks etc before I add them to my case I use my cordless bracelet but yeah as I said its not that big of an issue but it's not unheard of to happen but once its in my case I never worry about it, touch

I will edit the post so I don't cause confusion thank you for pointing it out I would hate to be the person that causes an issue lol


----------



## hadesfactor

Lol I just build my whole PC on my wood table....girl wasn't too happy about it but hey HA!.......for my blocks though I work on my granite counter tops


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i admit i lied, your post history is quite far from boring, i was too lazy to search.
> 
> but i swear i did look at your sig! guess its age and needing glasses now . . .
> 
> 10x!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Skup was far from boring . . . .
> 
> Much like our beloved TCO











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> You guys have it nice... my next order from Performance PCs is gonna kill my card... hell a fifth of the cost of the order is in the shipping, and even more is taken with the damned currency conversion.


I've had a few orders that warranted a drive into Orlando due to the shipping cost, and remember, i live 200 miles east -.-


----------



## dwolvin

If you are not actually grounded, there is no current path for the charge to dissapate, cordless static bracelets just sound like snake oil to me....
Just ground yourself on the case before and after touching anyting ESD sensative and you will be fine. I have built on benches all the way down (safety wise) to kneeling on carpet. Haven't killed one yet.

Here's a test I found in a quick Google:
http://transforming-technologies.com/esd-fyi/wireless-wrist-strap-for-grounding-and-esd-control-do-they-work/


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> If you are not actually grounded, there is no current path for the charge to dissapate, cordless static bracelets just sound like snake oil to me....
> Just ground yourself on the case before and after touching anyting ESD sensative and you will be fine. I have built on benches all the way down (safety wise) to kneeling on carpet. Haven't killed one yet.
> 
> Here's a test I found in a quick Google:
> http://transforming-technologies.com/esd-fyi/wireless-wrist-strap-for-grounding-and-esd-control-do-they-work/


Not all of them are created equally....unfortunately some of them are just junk and none of them are as effective as being directly connected to ground but the ones that actually do work have internal resistors and are good for the quick fixes attachment, installs etc but as I said not all of them are created equally and some claim they work by air ionization which is a crock.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> If you are not actually grounded, there is no current path for the charge to dissipate, cordless static bracelets just sound like snake oil to me....


Its because those cordless ESD bracelets are literally ESD bracelets that do not come with a cord, you still need to provide your own. All the confusion comes from misleading Engrish product descriptions.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Not all of them are created equally....unfortunately some of them are just junk and none of them are as effective as being directly connected to ground but the ones that actually do work have internal resistors and are good for the quick fixes attachment, installs etc but as I said not all of them are created equally and some claim they work by air ionization which is a crock.










No matter how many internal resistors your fancy cordless ESD bracelet has, they're not going to do squat to ground you if they're not connected to a cable that's connected to a ground.


----------



## hadesfactor

Those straps aren't designed to ground but diminish the charge so its non-volatile....so tech its not a grounding strap but a dissipation strap because you are right it's not grounding when not attached to a ground just like tech attaching your ground strap to a pc case that isn't plugged into the outlet or straight to a ground source isn't grounded either. Unless your PSU is plugged in (switched off of course) you won't be grounded. But the truth of it all is, the chances of you destroying your equipment via ESD are pretty slim, I would never use a cordless one in a professional setting but it's enough of a precaution for home use. In fact the heavy duty ones are grounded and have a 1 mega-ohm resistor on top of that


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Its because those cordless ESD bracelets are literally ESD bracelets that do not come with a cord, you still need to provide your own. All the confusion comes from misleading Engrish product descriptions.


...and just where does one connect that cord?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just build on a wood table. No way you can ESD your equipment on one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm rather partial to building on polished Jarrah.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just build on a wood table. No way you can ESD your equipment on one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm rather partial to building on polished Jarrah.
Click to expand...

Solid Pine. No particle doo doo furniture fer me.









~Ceadder


----------



## sli_shroom

also...keep in mind that esd damages over time and repeated hits. a good esd hit will create a weak spot that later hits will continue to damage. one static shock isnt going to result in a broken trace...unless you are snuggling with a pool full of bunnies prior to working on your mobo


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> ...and just where does one connect that cord?


To the screw on top. That screw is connected to the resistor and the resistor is in contact with your skin trough the metal plate. Although in EEV's one, the resistor broke off, so even if you connected a wire it wouldn't work, gotta love that QC on $1 Chinese stuff.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> To the screw on top. That screw is connected to the resistor and the resistor is in contact with your skin trough the metal plate. Although in EEV's one, the resistor broke off, so even if you connected a wire it wouldn't work, gotta love that QC on $1 Chinese stuff.


I hope you really don't believe that. It's being marketed as cordless, period, and 40+ years in electronics at my end suggests that one avoid such a product.

I have absolutely no love for one dollar Chinese products, the QC on them, or otherwise. One would do much better to spend a few dollars or Euros more and get the real thing, especially if they were truly concerned about ESD.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I hope you really don't believe that. It's being marketed as cordless, period, and 40+ years in electronics at my end suggests that one avoid such a product.
> 
> I have absolutely no love for one dollar Chinese products, the QC on them, or otherwise. One would do much better to spend a few dollars or Euros more and get the real thing, especially if they were truly concerned about ESD.


You know that all basic ESD straps are just a contact plate connected to a resistor connected to a wire, right? This happens to be a pretty terrible one, but if you connect a wire to it it will work(if said resistor leads aren't broken off). It's not "marketed" as cordless it just said cordless on a Chinese eBay listing, which on this case is engrish for "without a cord".


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You know that all basic ESD straps are just a contact plate connected to a resistor connected to a wire, right? This happens to be a pretty terrible one, but if you connect a wire to it it will work(if said resistor leads aren't broken off). It's not "marketed" as cordless it just said cordless on a Chinese eBay listing, which on this case is engrish for "without a cord".


Technically speaking you should be fine just wrapping a bare wire around your leg and connecting it to the ground of a wall socket, though it's far from a recommended method depending on the type of socket you have. 220-240v F-outlet "Schuko" work quite well for this, though a small "crocodile clamp" and a proper ESD strap is safer and more comfortable than a bare wire


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/poZpa0e1j
https://imageshack.com/i/podzwEWKj
https://imageshack.com/i/pm8S2h3hj
https://imageshack.com/i/pomJbLlTj
https://imageshack.com/i/pmUtlRTOj
https://imageshack.com/i/pnKrSXS0j

Never thought i would be picking one of these things up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Technically speaking you should be fine just wrapping a bare wire around your leg and connecting it to the ground of a wall socket, though it's far from a recommended method depending on the type of socket you have. 220-240v F-outlet "Schuko" work quite well for this, though a small "crocodile clamp" and a proper ESD strap is safer and more comfortable than a bare wire


You dont even need to wire it into the plug,just tape a bare end to any central heating radiator


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont even need to wire it into the plug,just tape a bare end to any central heating radiator


I usually try to get the wire into the outlet with the help of a fork


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont even need to wire it into the plug,just tape a bare end to any central heating radiator


That'll speed up your work lol.


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Never thought i would be picking one of these things up.


Nooooiice!

Every third page here I'm tempted to tear down my loop and give it a probaly needed cleaning and sort a better tube run / rad / fan setup. But I'm about to build the first computer in my adult life that is all (well, mostly) new parts, and I don't want to do it twice...


----------



## emsj86

I'm always wanting to change my build up. Wish I had the money or time to do more. But with what I do with my computer (gaming) it's hard to justify upgrades that are not really much of an upgrade


----------



## dwolvin

Yea, but my Sandy Hex is gettin' long in the tooth, and was built from old parts. I've never gotten every ram slot to read at the same time, and it's been folding hard for the entire time I've had it (minus gaming). It's done enough.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont even need to wire it into the plug,just tape a bare end to any central heating radiator


That would work I guess, as a bonus you get residual heat transferred back to your leg so... no need for socks I guess








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> I usually try to get the wire into the outlet with the help of a fork


Not sure if you are serious or not, but the F socket outlets that are used in large parts of Europe and the world (not to be confused with the compatible, but ungrounded C socket) actually have bare leads for the ground. This makes it really easy to ground anything you want in to it, so while I did post my comment with some sarcastic intent. The part where I mentioned crocodile clamps and F sockets is all true and something I do every time I use an ESD band. while this could be done with a socket that has an inserted ground it's far from as easy so I'm unsure if you joke or actually mean that (I mean, as long as you know which one is which, there shouldn't be an issue).



On a second note, I sometime unnecessarily respond to comments that don't need to be responded to. I get bored on my night shift, and lurking on forums that mainly have an American audience means that people are actually awake when I am. I try not to troll to much though


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> That would work I guess, as a bonus you get residual heat transferred back to your leg so... no need for socks I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if you are serious or not, but the F socket outlets that are used in large parts of Europe and the world (not to be confused with the compatible, but ungrounded C socket) actually have bare leads for the ground. This makes it really easy to ground anything you want in to it, so while I did post my comment with some sarcastic intent. The part where I mentioned crocodile clamps and F sockets is all true and something I do every time I use an ESD band. while this could be done with a socket that has an inserted ground it's far from as easy so I'm unsure if you joke or actually mean that (I mean, as long as you know which one is which, there shouldn't be an issue).
> 
> 
> 
> On a second note, I sometime unnecessarily respond to comments that don't need to be responded to. I get bored on my night shift, and lurking on forums that mainly have an American audience means that people are actually awake when I am. I try not to troll to much though


HA! no worries I do the same and yeah definitely sarcasm about using a fork lol....truth be told I don't worry about esd too much...I usually keep the pc plugged in but switched off or switch off the surge strip so ground is still going to the main ground...on a serious note.... plugs aren't like that in the states, its a little harder out here in our standard 3-prong (hence the joke about the fork)


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> HA! no worries I do the same and yeah definitely sarcasm about using a fork lol....truth be told I don't worry about esd too much...I usually keep the pc plugged in but switched off or switch off the surge strip so ground is still going to the main ground...on a serious note.... plugs aren't like that in the states, its a little harder out here in our standard 3-prong (hence the joke about the fork)


I know, hence why I specifically mentioned the F outlet







Trying anything like that with an American socket can be outright dangerous, I have some ideas for making it less dangerous but those wouldn't exactly get approved by any government that I know of. It's fun to hypothesise of overly complicated solutions to non problems though.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I know, hence why I specifically mentioned the F outlet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying anything like that with an American socket can be outright dangerous, I have some ideas for making it less dangerous but those wouldn't exactly get approved by any government that I know of. It's fun to hypothesise of overly complicated solutions to non problems though.


HA! I know...I will neither confirm nor deny that I have used a nail before in the ground and I love the whole idea of Rube Goldberg devices lol one day if I can dig up the pic of a distant childhood MIT comp where we had to create one....needed a device 3m cubed to drop a golfball and use that same golf ball to play music at 30 sec and again ad 60 sec with nothing surrounding the golf ball at the end and it had to have as many unique energy transfers as possible...i.e using mouse traps as switches

Please note I did NOT attend MIT just competed in the competition lol


----------



## looniam

sledge hammer/wall until you find copper pipe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont even need to wire it into the plug,just tape a bare end to any central heating radiator


there's no fun in that.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> sledge hammer/wall until you find copper pipe.


Nah way too boring, just grab a spear gun with steel cable on the reel an shoot it out the window every time you need to ground yourself. Bonus points if you catch something, grab a "Go to Jail" card if that something is human.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Nah way too boring, just grab a spear gun with steel cable on the reel an shoot it out the window every time you need to ground yourself. Bonus points if you catch something, grab a "Go to Jail" card if that something is human.


Better stack up on "get out of jail free" cards beforehand then


----------



## sdmf74

For the past year or two I've been trying to pin down the cause of my dizmal flow rates and I thought the culprit was my aquacomputer d5 pwm pump but I have just recently read some reviews of my swiftech Apogee xl rog cpu block and discovered how restrictive it is so I'm thinking its the cause & im considering a new cpu wb and I have a couple questions for the experienced.

1. Which cpu wb has the least flow restriction?

2. I'm considering the EK supremacy EVO which jetplate would provide the best flow rate or performance? The thin one or the thicker one and why? (7700k cpu)

3. I may need to mount it goofy as opposed to regular, will this affect performance?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> For the past year or two I've been trying to pin down the cause of my dizmal flow rates and I thought the culprit was my aquacomputer d5 pwm pump but I have just recently read some reviews of my swiftech Apogee xl rog cpu block and discovered how restrictive it is so I'm thinking its the cause & im considering a new cpu wb and I have a couple questions for the experienced.
> 
> 1. Which cpu wb has the least flow restriction?
> 
> 2. I'm considering the EK supremacy EVO which jetplate would provide the best flow rate or performance? The thin one or the thicker one and why? (7700k cpu)
> 
> 3. I may need to mount it goofy as opposed to regular, will this affect performance?


1) Anfi-tec "Drei", in my testing. Small company though, so may not be easy to get. Next up was Bitspower Summit EF, but I would rather recommend the XSPC Raystorm/Pro for the money.

2) Depends on the socket for performance so follow EK's recommendations- the thinner one provides less of a bow so works better with larger IHS (HEDT), and marginal effect on flow rate

3) Marginal again, go with plumbing layout/aesthetics preference


----------



## Stickeelion

So I've freshened up my system:


Filled and running with pastel ice white


RAM doesn't match anymore but I'm not going to go scrounging for another 32GB of it just to make it match colour wise

Cable Management


old tubes were pretty nasty, I was using a massive amount of dye however:


despite that, blocks were fine with only a thin film of dye that wiped right off with a cloth

As you can see I flipped the pumps around so the neat covers are visible and for extra HDD space

Temps are about 5C lower, probably a lot due to cleaning the dust out that was stuck deep down in the radiator fins, 36C on cpu underload and 34C on GPU under load. ambient was something around 20, didn't have a thermometer to see though.


Anyone got any ideas on how i could improve on this aesthetically with lighting or anything? I'm not the greatest with aesthetics, but im sure something can be done.

I've contemplated blue LED's does anyone have any pictures of a system with white coolant and blue (or blue and white combination) (non-UV) lighting?


----------



## sdmf74

I read the review on the anfi-tec thanks.
I was getting ready to say that I'm not a fan of XSPC so the XSPC Raystorm Pro is out of the question but on second thought the white version may look nice in my build and it seems to have good flow and performance. I will have to see if they have the white one with rgb.

Any idea if it's possible to get BLACK mounting hardware for the EK supremacy evo cpu waterblocks??? I have no chrome in my build whatsoever.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I read the review on the anfi-tec thanks.
> I was getting ready to say that I'm not a fan of XSPC so the XSPC Raystorm Pro is out of the question but on second thought the white version may look nice in my build and it seems to have good flow and performance. I will have to see if they have the white one with rgb.
> 
> Any idea if it's possible to get BLACK mounting hardware for the EK supremacy evo cpu waterblocks??? I have no chrome in my build whatsoever.


XSPC is updating their block range to include an acrylic top and RGB lighting, their new block is called the Raystorm Neo: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1424467567639954&id=186277998125590. They do also have RGB lighting with the Raystorm Pro in white, if that is your preference.

No black mounting hardware for the EK Supremacy Evo, but you can just paint them black.


----------



## sdmf74

Not digging the looks of that NEO and I'm trying to keep the lighting as simple as possible, if XSPC didn't have the foresight to wire the their rgb leds in the Aura +GRB format or provide an adapter then that's a dealbreaker for me.

As far as painting the mounting hardware wouldn't it eventually chip away and look horrible unless I stripped away all the chrome and prepped the bolts properly?

Painting is not my forte sorry for my ignorance


----------



## VSG

This is their RGB kit:

 
 

All manual control only, adding software control plus support for all the various motherboard vendor programs is quite expensive. Even EK only does it for monoblocks that are board specific.

Yeah, paint will eventually chip. You can also just use electrical tape on the locking nuts and call it a day on the EK block


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Not digging the looks of that NEO and I'm trying to keep the lighting as simple as possible, if XSPC didn't have the foresight to wire the their rgb leds in the Aura +GRB format or provide an adapter then that's a dealbreaker for me.
> 
> As far as painting the mounting hardware wouldn't it eventually chip away and look horrible unless I stripped away all the chrome and prepped the bolts properly?
> 
> Painting is not my forte sorry for my ignorance


if you don't use primer it will for sure flake off

getting it powdercoated by a pro is gonna be the best choice, probably will be pretty cheap considering its only 4 thumbscrews you need to paint, no more than $10-$20 that will never come off

doing it yourself with spray can paint will probably cost the same if not more for the tiny amount you're doing and you'll probably make mistakes if you haven't done painting before.

Its thumbscrews so less likely to chip than if you used tools on it, if you want to do it at home use a primer, then 2 thin coats of paint, maybe a clearcoat, you can bake it for extra durability and faster curing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Not digging the looks of that NEO and I'm trying to keep the lighting as simple as possible, if XSPC didn't have the foresight to wire the their rgb leds in the Aura +GRB format or provide an adapter then that's a dealbreaker for me.
> 
> As far as painting the mounting hardware wouldn't it eventually chip away and look horrible unless I stripped away all the chrome and prepped the bolts properly?
> 
> Painting is not my forte sorry for my ignorance


For paint to stick,it requires the correct method. Materials all have a primer dedicated to them,ferrous gets normal grey or red oxide,non ferrous gets an etch primer and plastics get a plastic primer. 3 coats minimum,15 min spacing. This is your anchor,get this right and the paint will stick nicely. Always key before applying colour. Always use a clear coat,the more glossy the clear is,the stronger the finish,matt finishes are never very robust.

Chrome cannot be painted,not sure whether its the porosity of the finish or the underlying strike plating....it will crack and fall off.

Baking is a 2k requirement, baking some paints will destroy the finish (oil,not solvent usually). It can also increase overall drying time as it flashes the top layers but leaves the substrate with nowhere to 'de-gas'. Personally,I wouldnt bother with doing that unless the paint requires it in the application instruction.


----------



## emsj86

The supremacy evo if I'm not mistaken is black to begin with expect the thumb screws


----------



## skupples

i'm a cheap bastage, i'll keep using the same block & raditor until they spring leaks... literally... I just JB Welded an alphastool end cap recently to stop a leak.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Not digging the looks of that NEO and I'm trying to keep the lighting as simple as possible, if XSPC didn't have the foresight to wire the their rgb leds in the Aura +GRB format or provide an adapter then that's a dealbreaker for me.
> 
> As far as painting the mounting hardware wouldn't it eventually chip away and look horrible unless I stripped away all the chrome and prepped the bolts properly?
> 
> Painting is not my forte sorry for my ignorance
> 
> 
> 
> if you don't use primer it will for sure flake off
> 
> getting it powdercoated by a pro is gonna be the best choice, probably will be pretty cheap considering its only 4 thumbscrews you need to paint, no more than $10-$20 that will never come off
> 
> doing it yourself with spray can paint will probably cost the same if not more for the tiny amount you're doing and you'll probably make mistakes if you haven't done painting before.
> 
> Its thumbscrews so less likely to chip than if you used tools on it, if you want to do it at home use a primer, then 2 thin coats of paint, maybe a clearcoat, you can bake it for extra durability and faster curing
Click to expand...

Scuff up the nickel with a high grit paper and spray whatever color catches your fancy from the Rustoleum Universal Advanced Formula line. I know for a fact that the Primer and Paint works as I sprayed the steel plate of my CIVFormula block.









*Before*


*After*


The coating has held up since I painted it back in 2012(iirc the exact year I painted it) when it was painted. In fact there have been no surface scratches that one would encounter with your typical rattle can paint job. I have to remove the Acetal portion of the block to unmount the board. This requires removal of the plate in order to gain access to the mounting screw in the middle of the board.









~Ceadder


----------



## Drizztly




----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont even need to wire it into the plug,just tape a bare end to any central heating radiator


I only seen a central heating radiator in my Great-Granma's house in the South (heaters are a 2nd thought in the deep South).

Though, I do know in the UK, you peeps got those heaters everywhere it seems.









Still, that is a great way to find a nice ground point.


----------



## Knightly McNutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizztly*


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Scuff up the nickel with a high grit paper and spray whatever color catches your fancy from the Rustoleum Universal Advanced Formula line. I know for a fact that the Primer and Paint works as I sprayed the steel plate of my CIVFormula block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Before*
> 
> 
> *After*
> 
> 
> The coating has held up since I painted it back in 2012(iirc the exact year I painted it) when it was painted. In fact there have been no surface scratches that one would encounter with your typical rattle can paint job. I have to remove the Acetal portion of the block to unmount the board. This requires removal of the plate in order to gain access to the mounting screw in the middle of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Previous methods mentioned seems like a Lotta work for a set of 4 screws (especially for the unexperienced)
But this would be worth considering if I screw it up I can just buy another set however the fact that EK doesn't offer them in black just seems ridiculous to me.
Probably go with another brand cpu block for this reason, the Bitspower summit EF-X might be a good option


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Previous methods mentioned seems like a Lotta work for a set of 4 screws (especially for the unexperienced)
> But this would be worth considering if I screw it up I can just buy another set however the fact that EK doesn't offer them in black just seems ridiculous to me.
> Probably go with another brand cpu block for this reason, the Bitspower summit EF-X might be a good option


You could always improvise and use your own mounting hardware, though EK will likely claim no responsibility if you do so. I haven't really seen any waterblocks with a complicated mount yet so it's not like you can't improvise and do things your own way.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is their RGB kit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All manual control only, adding software control plus support for all the various motherboard vendor programs is quite expensive. Even EK only does it for monoblocks that are board specific.


EVEN BETTER:

Check out what I just found, this appears to be the same exact wiring as the RGB headers on my Maximus IX Formula! The manual doesnt mention anything about Aura but I cant see any reason why I couldnt just plug the Bitspower summit EF-X cpu waterblock directly into my other
motherboard RGB header to sync up with my led strips, G skill ram & motherboard.

Even my cablemod Aura rgb led strips came with an aura adapter to match the wiring up but that doesnt seem to be necessary here.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> EVEN BETTER:
> 
> Check out what I just found, this appears to be the same exact wiring as the RGB headers on my Maximus IX Formula! The manual doesnt mention anything about Aura but I cant see any reason why I couldnt just plug the Bitspower summit EF-X cpu waterblock directly into my other
> motherboard RGB header to sync up with my led strips, G skill ram & motherboard.
> 
> Even my cablemod Aura rgb led strips came with an aura adapter to match the wiring up but that doesnt seem to be necessary here.


Honestly they work fine either way, the only factors that you have to think of when wiring RGB is that the RGB lights that you are using has the proper resistors to be run directly from 12v. That and the obvious order of the pins, as in you don't want the green pin to be connected to the red pin as that would make the colours wrong (it would still work fine, but the RGB code won't correspond to the actual light). The only high-tech thing about these things is on the motherboard, everything else is trivial to deal with. As long as you know a bit bout soldering and crimping you can always just make your own.


----------



## sdmf74

Sounds like you are agreeing with me, I mean since we already determined that the wiring is the same, I just cant figure out why Bitspower wouldnt advertise them as Aura compatible (then again BP isnt much for customer service or advertising)


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Sounds like you are agreeing with me, I mean since we already determined that the wiring is the same, I just cant figure out why Bitspower wouldnt advertise them as Aura compatible (then again BP isnt much for customer service or advertising)


As I mentioned, but maybe not so clearly. The connector may be the same but the pin order may not be, it's not an issue to fix that mind you, but that would remove any "aura compatible" branding. There is also the question of whether or not they have the correct resistors for running it directly from 12v, or if it's designed to go to a controller which handles the voltage regulation. Either way it's easy to slap together some RGB LEDs for any block that supports regular LEDs, I have some 5mm LEDs that I bought from Aliexpress for that purpose.

Edit: I see that the pinout is the same, but I'm still unsure if the resistors are in the "controller" or if it's wired to the LEDs.


----------



## alienalvan

Red Dragon build coming up...


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As I mentioned, but maybe not so clearly. The connector may be the same but the pin order may not be, it's not an issue to fix that mind you, but that would remove any "aura compatible" branding. There is also the question of whether or not they have the correct resistors for running it directly from 12v, or if it's designed to go to a controller which handles the voltage regulation. Either way it's easy to slap together some RGB LEDs for any block that supports regular LEDs, I have some 5mm LEDs that I bought from Aliexpress for that purpose.
> 
> Edit: I see that the pinout is the same, but I'm still unsure if the resistors are in the "controller" or if it's wired to the LEDs.


The pin out/wiring does look to be the same as you can see from the pics but whether or not there are resistors in the 3 button controller with sata that ships with it is hard to say.

The led strips plug into the motherboard header without any resistors but your right the leds in the cpu block may require some sort of resistor.

I believe this waterblock has the leds under the acrylic top so I'm not sure if they are the 3mm/5mm leds most blocks use or if they are like the 5050's in the strips.

I'll try to contact Bitspower about it but I doubt I will get any response.


----------



## n8t1308

Well, I finally finished my water cooling set-up and I'm just glad it all booted properly







De-lidded the 7700K with the Rockit kit and cant say enough about how easy having that tool made it! Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut for the IHS and Thermal Grizzly Paste for the CPU and GPU. EK everything except for the radiator obviously... the wife thought bigger was better and went with an Alphacool Monsta 420mm so as you can tell that thing was not going to fit in the case. I drilled out two holes on the top for tubing pass through and im very happy with my temps. CPU under full stress test didnt go above 63`C and thats at 5GHZ with a 1.380V. The GTX 1080 doesnt go above 38`C which i find a little weird. I just expected it to be higher. Overclocked that as well to 2126 MHz on the core and 5184 MHz on the memory.

CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
GPU Block: EK-FC1080 GTX TF6 Nickel/Acrylic
GPU Backplate: EK-FC1080 TF6 Full Nickel Backplate
Reservoir/Pump: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
Fittings: EK 1/2ID x 3/4OD Black Compression Fittings
Tubing: Primochill Premoflex LRT Onyx Black 1/2ID x 3/4OD
Coolant: EK Cryofuel Clear

Needless to say I'm very satisfied with being back under water again







Will be running EK Cryofuel Clear in the loop as soon as my drain tubing fittings show up....my little oversight for this project haha

All fans are Corsair ML140's but the case is using Corsair ML120's


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> The pin out/wiring does look to be the same as you can see from the pics but whether or not there are resistors in the 3 button controller with sata that ships with it is hard to say.
> 
> The led strips plug into the motherboard header without any resistors but your right the leds in the cpu block may require some sort of resistor.
> 
> I believe this waterblock has the leds under the acrylic top so I'm not sure if they are the 3mm/5mm leds most blocks use or if they are like the 5050's in the strips.
> 
> I'll try to contact Bitspower about it but I doubt I will get any response.


if you zoom in on the pic of the bitspower controller, you can see the pinout, which matches that of the mobo.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> if you zoom in on the pic of the bitspower controller, you can see the pinout, which matches that of the mobo.


That is correct, but no way of knowing if I plug it into my mobo RGB header will it burn out the led's (which wouldnt be that disastrous but if by chance it could damage my mobo header I would be very sad


----------



## sli_shroom

to start out...they are both 12v

that controller is rated for a working current of 3a, but the limited number of leds in that block will realistically draw much less. your mobo supplies 2a (or a strip 2m meters or less) through that header.

3 leds in a segment of a 5050 rgb strip pull 20 mA for each red/green/blue. if you set it to white all are active so you will pull 60 mA. so worst case you are looking at 60mA (.6a) per segment when set to white. 5050 strips have 10 segments per meter, so you can see where the 2m limit for the mobo header comes from. no way there are 2m worth of leds in that cpu bock.

so there is a way of knowing...

bottom line...you will be fine


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> That is correct, but no way of knowing if I plug it into my mobo RGB header will it burn out the led's (which wouldnt be that disastrous but if by chance it could damage my mobo header I would be very sad


Simple, send message to Bitspower and ask them.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> to start out...they are both 12v
> 
> that controller is rated for a working current of 3a, but the limited number of leds in that block will realistically draw much less. your mobo supplies 2a (or a strip 2m meters or less) through that header.
> 
> 3 leds in a segment of a 5050 rgb strip pull 20 mA for each red/green/blue. if you set it to white all are active so you will pull 60 mA. so worst case you are looking at 60mA (.6a) per segment when set to white. 5050 strips have 10 segments per meter, so you can see where the 2m limit for the mobo header comes from. no way there are 2m worth of leds in that cpu bock.
> 
> so there is a way of knowing...
> 
> bottom line...you will be fine


In all likelihood yes there won't a problem, but there is never a guarantee that a LED strip draws 12v. Which is why I was reluctant to say that it will work without actually knowing since the needed resistors could be located in RGB controller. While I highly doubt that is the case, I still can't say for certainty that it will work without actually getting a closer look at them. If he wan't to take the chance and try then that's perfectly fine by me, but I won't say either or if it's going to. After all it's most likely going to work, but I don't want to take responsibility for the LEDs getting burnt out by to high voltage.


----------



## bundymania

Water Cooling pR0n from Iceman Cooler


----------



## skupples

confirmed 1x dead DDC, but I found one that I had forgot about in the stash so yay!

its amazing how clean my system still is after almost 4 years on Mayhems' X1 clear Whiskey sauce(X1 clear smells like liquor) I didn't even go all hardcore with radiator acid bathing, etc. I just flushed them for debris.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Scuff up the nickel with a high grit paper and spray whatever color catches your fancy from the Rustoleum Universal Advanced Formula line. I know for a fact that the Primer and Paint works as I sprayed the steel plate of my CIVFormula block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Before*
> 
> 
> *After*
> 
> 
> The coating has held up since I painted it back in 2012(iirc the exact year I painted it) when it was painted. In fact there have been no surface scratches that one would encounter with your typical rattle can paint job. I have to remove the Acetal portion of the block to unmount the board. This requires removal of the plate in order to gain access to the mounting screw in the middle of the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previous methods mentioned seems like a Lotta work for a set of 4 screws (especially for the unexperienced)
> But this would be worth considering if I screw it up I can just buy another set however the fact that EK doesn't offer them in black just seems ridiculous to me.
> Probably go with another brand cpu block for this reason, the Bitspower summit EF-X might be a good option
Click to expand...

I got a Black mounting kit from EK through PPCs back when I bough my Supreme HF block. But I sprayed the Springs Crimson red, the same as the plate. It really is easier than you believe it is. Just go over your target tapping the trigger "dusting" it with steady side to side strokes tapping the trigger on each pass.

Don't sweat holding down the triffer and getting it all painted in one coat. You get the worst results that way.

~Ceadder


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Water Cooling pR0n from Iceman Cooler


That is some nice hardware, great to see gear that isn't the usual brands. That GPU block channel design looks interesting, much denser and bigger than contemporary GPU blocks. Interested to see how efficient it is.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I would love to assume this is _the_ thread to scour for potential info on Threadripper blocks.

Sadly I haven't seen any.


----------



## skupples

I Really like their dual DDC top. Previously, the "stock" dual top from Swiftech was #1, but that thing's so sexy it wouldn't even matter.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> Simple, send message to Bitspower and ask them.


My point was they probably will not respond to the inquiry because of their lack of customer service but its definately worth a try. Will report back if I do get a response.

I still can't decide on bitspower Summit EF-X RGB or black acrylic which are hard to find in USA or EK supremacy evo with painted hardware.

Heatkiller IV Pro blocks look nice but have silver mounting plate as well.

Thanks for all the feedback guys


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> My point was they probably will not respond to the inquiry because of their lack of customer service but its definately worth a try. Will report back if I do get a response.
> 
> I still can't decide on bitspower Summit EF-X RGB or black acrylic which are hard to find in USA or EK supremacy evo with painted hardware.
> 
> Heatkiller IV Pro blocks look nice but have silver mounting plate as well.
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback guys


get a dart gun, put up a pic of both, close eyes, squeeze trigger, win.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n8t1308*
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I finally finished my water cooling set-up and I'm just glad it all booted properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-lidded the 7700K with the Rockit kit and cant say enough about how easy having that tool made it! Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut for the IHS and Thermal Grizzly Paste for the CPU and GPU. EK everything except for the radiator obviously... the wife thought bigger was better and went with an Alphacool Monsta 420mm so as you can tell that thing was not going to fit in the case. I drilled out two holes on the top for tubing pass through and im very happy with my temps. CPU under full stress test didnt go above 63`C and thats at 5GHZ with a 1.380V. The GTX 1080 doesnt go above 38`C which i find a little weird. I just expected it to be higher. Overclocked that as well to 2126 MHz on the core and 5184 MHz on the memory.
> 
> CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
> GPU Block: EK-FC1080 GTX TF6 Nickel/Acrylic
> GPU Backplate: EK-FC1080 TF6 Full Nickel Backplate
> Reservoir/Pump: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
> Fittings: EK 1/2ID x 3/4OD Black Compression Fittings
> Tubing: Primochill Premoflex LRT Onyx Black 1/2ID x 3/4OD
> Coolant: EK Cryofuel Clear
> 
> Needless to say I'm very satisfied with being back under water again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be running EK Cryofuel Clear in the loop as soon as my drain tubing fittings show up....my little oversight for this project haha
> 
> All fans are Corsair ML140's but the case is using Corsair ML120's


Which case is this?


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> My point was they probably will not respond to the inquiry because of their lack of customer service but its definately worth a try. Will report back if I do get a response.
> 
> I still can't decide on bitspower Summit EF-X RGB or black acrylic which are hard to find in USA or EK supremacy evo with painted hardware.
> 
> Heatkiller IV Pro blocks look nice but have silver mounting plate as well.
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback guys


I wote for EK Supremacy EVO


----------



## iBerggman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Which case is this?


Seems to be an iBuyPower Slate, no idea if you can buy the case separately.


----------



## b0z0

Just received all my water cooling components. I went will all XSPC parts. Raystorm RGB Pro block, 2 EX360 radiators, Photon d5 Pump/Res combo 270mm, Razor GTX 1080/1080ti block, and black chrome fittings. This is my first time building a waterloop, and I've decided to got PETG hard tube. Everything will be installed in a Fractal Define S.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> Seems to be an iBuyPower Slate, no idea if you can buy the case separately.


Yeah. Think you're right. Has kind of an s340 look to it. I like the s340 but that single 120/140 top fan/rad mount is a deal killer for me. No reason that couldn't have been a 240, 289, or even a 360.

Just ran across a reddit thread with an IBP rep calling it a 'poor man's s340'. The s340 is what inspired it, and looking at more pics it would appear it has the same single 120/140 up top. That just doesn't make any sense to me short of maybe noise output.


----------



## iBerggman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Yeah. Think you're right. Has kind of an s340 look to it. I like the s340 but that single 120/140 top fan/rad mount is a deal killer for me. No reason that couldn't have been a 240, 289, or even a 360.
> 
> Just ran across a reddit thread with an IBP rep calling it a 'poor man's s340'. The s340 is what inspired it, and looking at more pics it would appear it has the same single 120/140 up top. That just doesn't make any sense to me short of maybe noise output.


You might want to keep an eye out for Fractal Designs new case Meshify C, it has support for atleast 240 + 360 rads, has tempered glass (I think) and kind of a similar pattern on the front panel. No led lights though. Newegg had it listed too early but it's removed now, the only pictures available seem to be the ones in the user guide.


----------



## n8t1308

All in all the IBuyPower Slate computer case im using at the moment is functional but by no means is it going to be the final case. Im already saving my cash for the SMA8 Caselabs in white....mmm mmm mmm like bacon and coffee in the morning


----------



## orbitalwalsh

With cases their are about 3/4 OEMs that make all the cases you see. In Win being one of them but under a different name .
They make the chassis and send off the brief to their clients and they state what they want done to it , if it works within that chassis .


----------



## alienalvan

3rd build
Ryzen 7 1700
Asrock X370 Taichi
Samsung 960 Pro
EVGA GTX 1080 Ti
Phanteck P400S
SteamPunk PSU 650w
Budgeted $100 water cooling set


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> I wote for EK Supremacy EVO


I respect your wote but my whole reason for upgrading is because of the horrible flow restriction of my Swiftech Apogee XL rog block
so I think im leaning towards the bitspower summit EF-X RGB for the excellent flow, I may sacrifice 1- 1.5 degree cpu temp but I wont have to hassle with LED's
and painting the huge chrome thumbnuts (its funny EK offers 15 different color evo blocks but only chrome mounting options







)

Also I can buy a white mounting plate for the Bitspower


----------



## n8t1308

So I just finished my build a few days ago and my temps are very odd so I thought id mention them. I'm not complaining in the slightest but I want to make sure its normal. My MSI 1080 never goes above 38C on full load thru Unigine Heaven with maxed settings at 3440x1440. The CPU will hit 68C in Prime95 under full load. Radiator is an Alphacool Monsta 420 in push/pull.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n8t1308*
> 
> So I just finished my build a few days ago and my temps are very odd so I thought id mention them. I'm not complaining in the slightest but I want to make sure its normal. My MSI 1080 never goes above 38C on full load thru Unigine Heaven with maxed settings at 3440x1440. The CPU will hit 68C in Prime95 under full load. Radiator is an Alphacool Monsta 420 in push/pull.


If my CPU was only running at 68C, I would add another 200mhz. Nice results. I love external rads.


----------



## Nick the Slick

Been a while since I've posted here. Upgraded my sig rig to a 6700k back in January and just now getting around to changing the color scheme from gold to white to match the board. Went ahead and made the switch to rigid tubing while I was at it (boy was that an experience, and I did it the easy way, could still use a lot of work too...).


----------



## b0z0

I'm starting the tube bending process. Here is a picture where the system currently sits.


----------



## jura11

Here is build which I build for friend of mine, he asked me if I could build him custom water loop

Parts used:

EVGA DG-87
Asus Rampage V Extreme
i7-5820k
4*4GB 3000mhz DDR4
EVGA GTX1080Ti Founders Edition with EKWB GTX1080Ti waterblock
EVGA 750W PSU

Water cooling gear:

EKWB Supermacy Waterblock
EKWB GTX1080Ti waterblock
XSPC RX360 v3
Phobya 250mm reservoir
Barrow 13/10 compression fittings
Mayhems UV White 13/10 tubing
Alphacool Laing Complete Edition Eisdecke DDC Pump DDC310
Aquaero 5LT
6* Noiseblocker BlackSilent Fan XLP
6* Phanteks PH-F120SP

Still need to fill up with Mayhems Pastel Red

He used some parts which I wouldn't use









Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Anoxy

Man, I don't even know why I watercooled in the first place, when my games crash anytime my loop is over 32C.

Like, is that normal? I live in a hot climate, so keeping it under that temperature while playing a game is very difficult.


----------



## XFaega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Man, I don't even know why I watercooled in the first place, when my games crash anytime my loop is over 32C.
> 
> Like, is that normal? I live in a hot climate, so keeping it under that temperature while playing a game is very difficult.


Whats your setup and what size is your PSU? It could be your PSU can't handle the large drain of watts.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XFaega*
> 
> Whats your setup and what size is your PSU? It could be your PSU can't handle the large drain of watts.


http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5075937

According to this it's a AX1200i, so that shouldn't be too much of a problem


----------



## XFaega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5075937
> 
> According to this it's a AX1200i, so that shouldn't be too much of a problem


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5075937
> 
> According to this it's a AX1200i, so that shouldn't be too much of a problem


I have the same PSU. Never had any issues. Still would have the PSU checked. Also check to make sure all water blocks are tightened correctly.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Man, I don't even know why I watercooled in the first place, when my games crash anytime my loop is over 32C.
> 
> Like, is that normal? I live in a hot climate, so keeping it under that temperature while playing a game is very difficult.


First thing I would check is any potential overclocks you may be running, some components are very temperature sensitive when running close to the edge of what is possible concerning clocks and voltages. Next would be drivers, and then lastly check the temperature of other things in the system such as motherboard VRMs and so on. Something is causing the instability, but it may be just a hunch that leads you to believe that it's temperatures. So before concluding on that it would be best to test out all other possibilities, as that seems to be a strange cause.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would check processes running, I know TeamViewer can conflict with games (mainly Origin launched). A corrupted game file, there's a long list of things that can cause this other than hardware


----------



## Shaggy8675

My new build after 5 years with the old one









My old and first WC build ( i5-3570K)


New build:
Corsair Obsidian 750D Air
AMD Ryzen 1700X @4.00Ghz
Asus Crosshair Hero X370
G.Skill Trident-Z RGB 3200Mhz Cl14
Watercool Heatkiller 200-D5
EKWB radiator, 16mm PETG, 16mm HDC and Supremacy-Evo waterblock
Sapphire Radeon R280x ( in need of replacement... )


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Man, I don't even know why I watercooled in the first place, when my games crash anytime my loop is over 32C.
> 
> Like, is that normal? I live in a hot climate, so keeping it under that temperature while playing a game is very difficult.


I had the same issue playing Mass Effect Andromeda which is Origin. I found out the game will not work on an overclocked GPU or at least nothing OC'd passed 1987Mhz for me. I don't know if this helps at all. After I created a custom curve just for the game to keep stable clocks the game hasn't crashed once

What game are you playing....and those temps are good temps It's not the loop temp that is causing the crash. What are you CPU and GPU die temps as well


----------



## paskowitz

My very first client build. It was pretty amazing experience. How it started. How it ended. I am biased, but IMO, and entertaining read.

I'll be doing a mini post build log once I get more pictures from the client. At the end of the day the client was ecstatic. I have to say, that is more rewarding than the final product itself.


----------



## n8t1308

With the little room you had available to you in that case I think the build came out looking really good! We could nitpick all day on the little things like we can with anyone's build but when it comes down to it and your building a computer for a client... if they are happy and feel like their money was well spent then who's to judge? Keep up the good work!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n8t1308*
> 
> With the little room you had available to you in that case I think the build came out looking really good! We could nitpick all day on the little things like we can with anyone's build but when it comes down to it and your building a computer for a client... if they are happy and feel like their money was well spent then who's to judge? Keep up the good work!


Thanks!

I'm pretty self critical. "XYZ bends could have been better", "lighting could have been more even", etc. End of the day, I think I got the big things right. The case (which the client wanted to keep) definitely limited what I could do. Made me appreciate my Phanteks Evolv a little more (even though I bemoan it sometimes).


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> My very first client build. It was pretty amazing experience. How it started. How it ended. I am biased, but IMO, and entertaining read.
> 
> I'll be doing a mini post build log once I get more pictures from the client. At the end of the day the client was ecstatic. I have to say, that is more rewarding than the final product itself.


It looks excellent.


----------



## EastCoast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> My very first client build. It was pretty amazing experience. How it started. How it ended. I am biased, but IMO, and entertaining read.
> 
> I'll be doing a mini post build log once I get more pictures from the client. At the end of the day the client was ecstatic. I have to say, that is more rewarding than the final product itself.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice look. At first I thought you used satin clear tubing and was going to ask where you got it from (I like the look of it). Then I noticed when it's clear tubing. That look of satin clear with some lighting is something I wanted to see in Plexi type of tubing.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EastCoast*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Very nice look. At first I thought you used satin clear tubing and was going to ask where you got it from (I like the look of it). Then I noticed when it's clear tubing. That look of satin clear with some lighting is something I wanted to see in Plexi type of tubing.


Thanks! Just 150 then 600 grit sand paper. Could have gone to 1200 grit but it wasn't really necessary. Pretty easy process. I'm kinda want to try it with colored translucent tubing and see how it turns out.


----------



## EastCoast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Thanks! Just 150 then 600 grit sand paper. Could have gone to 1200 grit but it wasn't really necessary. Pretty easy process. I'm kinda want to try it with colored translucent tubing and see how it turns out.


I don't know the official name of it other then "frost" but that's a unique look there for tubing. AlphaCooling calls it satin clear on their waterblock.
If you do a new build all Frost/Satin Tubing, WaterBlock, Reservoir is an idea if your customer prefers it.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EastCoast*
> 
> I don't know the official name of it other then "frost" but that's a unique look there for tubing. AlphaCooling calls it satin clear on their waterblock.
> If you do a new build all Frost/Satin Tubing, WaterBlock, Reservoir is an idea if your customer prefers it.


I would love to give that a try.


----------



## khemist

Got a Define c with glass window coming today, going to keep it simple with just this for cpu in the roof with my heatkiller block, no res.

Keeping the front clear for airflow to the GPU.


----------



## Kimir

Pretty tubing, me likey.


----------



## DarthBaggins

@khemist what tubing is that? Almost looks anodized.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Got a Define c with glass window coming today, going to keep it simple with just this for cpu in the roof with my heatkiller block, no res.
> 
> Keeping the front clear for airflow to the GPU.


Is that a low powered pump? vibrations might be an issue for sound , but looks like your using a solid metal extender piece . would be worried if that was hard tubing with vibrations and o-ring seal


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> @khemist
> what tubing is that? Almost looks anodized.


https://imageshack.com/i/pnDEYYkWj
https://imageshack.com/i/po8RA480j

https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=172_294&products_id=4470&zenid=58gonvr3p30viidhi5viijo5q3

Bitspower 12/10 Royal Blue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Is that a low powered pump? vibrations might be an issue for sound , but looks like your using a solid metal extender piece . would be worried if that was hard tubing with vibrations and o-ring seal


It's branded a koolance pmp-400, yeah it's a Bitspower adjustable aqua pipe, very solid.









Getting a feel for the case.


----------



## DarthBaggins

of course it had to be made by BitsPower, which I refuse to use their products anymore - hard not to give in since it's just their tubing and I only had issues with their blocks.


----------



## IT Diva

Now here's something you don't see everyday, . . .

An RGB strip in a Singularity res . . . .


----------



## Knightly McNutt

Want!


----------



## mixsetup

Hi here is mine so far a on Thermaltake Core P5 chassis.
Not finished yet as it will go on the wall this weekend.
Will get some better cables soon I hope.
Had to add the Antec Spot Cool to lower the temps of the VRM but will change the colour of the LED to Red.
Would of cooled the GPU but could not find a block for the old 280x

Will post better pictures later when I finished it all. Mounted on the wall now.







Parts
Block Block Aqua Computer cuplex kryos
EK X-res
EK D5 on pump
EK CoolStream PE 360 Triple Radiator

EK Furious Vardar 120mm Fan FF5-120 3000RPM
Fittings Primochill revolver
Other fittings EK
PETG tubing Bent it all freehand so it is not perfect.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=172_294&products_id=4470&zenid=58gonvr3p30viidhi5viijo5q3
> 
> Bitspower 12/10 Royal Blue.
> It's branded a koolance pmp-400, yeah it's a Bitspower adjustable aqua pipe, very solid.
> 
> Getting a feel for the case.


good luck, please report back how you get on with the pump hard plumbed into the loop. Although surprised you havent used an EK DDC mount on on the front fan? but guessing it wouldn't line up flush

might be worth having a foam gasket between the rad and fans or fans and case to dampen any vibrations down


----------



## khemist

Will do, turns out the rx rad doesn't fit, using a Magicool now.

I was planning on using the other ports on the rx to fill but I will have to use a t fitting now I think.


----------



## andre02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Will do, turns out the rx rad doesn't fit, using a Magicool now.
> 
> I was planning on using the other ports on the rx to fill but I will have to use a t fitting now I think.


What size was the radiator 240 or 280 ? Was just about to ask you what kind it is but you just wrote in this post. Too bad it doesn't fit, it looked really good in there. The fans are touching the ram or something (looking to get the same case) ?


----------



## khemist

I managed to squeeze the 240 rx in after all although i already had the magicool installed and had the royal Blue tubing installed.

I had a feeling i may be able to squeeze it although not all the holes align for the rad screws, also i had to remove the top part of the heatspreders on my memory.

I've installed PETG for quickness for now and will copy it with the Blue tubing again soon.


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/

I'll change tubing soon, enough messing around for now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> good luck, please report back how you get on with the pump hard plumbed into the loop. Although surprised you havent used an EK DDC mount on on the front fan? but guessing it wouldn't line up flush
> 
> might be worth having a foam gasket between the rad and fans or fans and case to dampen any vibrations down


I didn't think to use one, maybe if this didn't work out well i would have used similar.

Minimal noise, even with the pump at max speed, very happy with it.

A bit of everything in here, Bitspower Watercool, Nanoxia, EK.









If i was cooling the GPU i would have a matching block though.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> I'll change tubing soon, enough messing around for now.
> I didn't think to use one, maybe if this didn't work out well i would have used similar.
> 
> Minimal noise, even with the pump at max speed, very happy with it.
> 
> A bit of everything in here, Bitspower Watercool, Nanoxia, EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If i was cooling the GPU i would have a matching block though.


REally clean build there










I'm starting to love the look of those EK NVME hetsinks, not to mention they have that badge that just screams for some custom work


----------



## andre02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> I'll change tubing soon, enough messing around for now.
> I didn't think to use one, maybe if this didn't work out well i would have used similar.
> 
> Minimal noise, even with the pump at max speed, very happy with it.
> 
> A bit of everything in here, Bitspower Watercool, Nanoxia, EK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If i was cooling the GPU i would have a matching block though.


Hey, very nice work you did there. Do you think a 280mm radiator would fit in the top ? Also, do you have a build log, i would like to see how you did with the pump, it looks very compact, you didn't use a reservoir ?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> good luck, please report back how you get on with the pump hard plumbed into the loop. Although surprised you havent used an EK DDC mount on on the front fan? but guessing it wouldn't line up flush
> 
> might be worth having a foam gasket between the rad and fans or fans and case to dampen any vibrations down


No you cannot fit a 280.

No reservoir, the radiator is the reservoir since it's connected directly.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> I'll change tubing soon, enough messing around for now.
> I didn't think to use one, maybe if this didn't work out well i would have used similar.
> 
> Minimal noise, even with the pump at max speed, very happy with it.
> 
> A bit of everything in here, Bitspower Watercool, Nanoxia, EK.
> 
> If i was cooling the GPU i would have a matching block though.


nice one, looks epic- might be worth checking the thread tightening a week in just for piece of mind vibrations hasn't loosened anything. again cracking!

Love simple loops, like yours- no res but was based on an AIO


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

It's been awhile since I've contributed a picture hasn't it... well let's change that. Build is finally DONE! Just need to take and edit some more photos.



-Jeffinslaw


----------



## skupples

that power house.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It's been awhile since I've contributed a picture hasn't it... well let's change that. Build is finally DONE! Just need to take and edit some more photos.
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


That is one hell of a compact machine, bet it weighs a metric ton. Though it looks like all that weight will aid in some serious performance.









What sort of specific hardware are you packing in that box?


----------



## sdmf74

Does anyone know if the monsoon free center compression fittings will fit right and look ok with the Bitspower 90 degree fittings?

When I bought my monsoon 45/90 degree angle fittings they were actually labeled 3/8 x 5/8" like the monsoon compression fittings but the Bitspower aren't labeled by tube size.

The reason I ask is cause my monsoon 90's won't fit on my new cpu waterblock so I gotta buy some that closely match my monsoon free center compression fittings.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Does anyone know if the monsoon free center compression fittings will fit right and look ok with the Bitspower 90 degree fittings?
> 
> When I bought my monsoon 45/90 degree angle fittings they were actually labeled 3/8 x 5/8" like the monsoon compression fittings but the Bitspower aren't labeled by tube size.
> 
> The reason I ask is cause my monsoon 90's won't fit on my new cpu waterblock so I gotta buy some that closely match my monsoon free center compression fittings.


Thwy will fit fine with any angled fitting, though Monsoon themselves actually sells tailored angled fitting for each specific size. That's why you found the "3/8 x 5/8"" to start with, any other will still work fine they will just not have the specific girth of the compression fitting that you are using. For the most part though that's entirely fine.


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah I actually found a bitspower triple rotary I forgot I had so I was able to get an idea thanks!
I had no idea the ports on the Bitspower summit EF-X RGB were so close together, way closer than my apogee XL.

The monsoons are pretty much the only set of fittings I've ever bought so the size thing kinda threw me off


----------



## b0z0

During the fill/leak test noticed a 90° fitting leaking from the cpu to the res


----------



## moRReus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> During the fill/leak test noticed a 90° fitting leaking from the cpu to the res


Looking good! I just did my first setup not long ago with XSPC blocks as well, but I just have soft tubing for now.

Where is the leak specifically? That 90 pointing up out from the pump/res? Is it happening between the pump and the fitting, or elsewhere on the fitting itself?


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moRReus*
> 
> Looking good! I just did my first setup not long ago with XSPC blocks as well, but I just have soft tubing for now.
> 
> Where is the leak specifically? That 90 pointing up out from the pump/res? Is it happening between the pump and the fitting, or elsewhere on the fitting itself?


Thanks. Yeah this is my first water build. I'm glad I decided to go with PETG. It was a pain bending but I think it turned out great. Yeah the 90° fitting from the pump is whats leaking. I've ordered more which should be here Monday...


----------



## moRReus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> I'm glad I decided to go with PETG. It was a pain bending but I think it turned out great.


For sure, the bends and routing look good. I'll definitely be going this route one of these days... just wanted to keep it somewhat simple for the first time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> Yeah the 90° fitting from the pump is whats leaking. I've ordered more which should be here Monday...


Gotcha, so the actual fitting itself is leaking... I was wondering where specifically the leak was because my two pump inlet port fittings were leaking at first too. I thought it was the fittings, but the leak was between the pump and the fittings. Turns out, I didn't pay attention to the fact that the threading for the two inlet ports are "notched in" as opposed to being flush with the outside of the pump itself. Well, my fittings did not fit down into the notch keeping them from threading in far enough causing them to leak. The manual wasn't very clear about it, but I think I needed to use small extensions into the pump first, then thread the fittings into those. As a temp. fix, I just double stacked O-rings lol. Works though! I'll actually fix it when I make a few upcoming changes.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnNnUV3aj



Time to redo the cpu loop.


----------



## THC Butterz

Nothing special, hell its a 6 year old platform, but heres mine


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Nothing special, hell its a 6 year old platform, but heres mine


Hey, as long as it gives you what you need there is really no need to upgrade no matter how old the platform is. It's always good to see builds where the user has taken their time and done a good job


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/



Just have to shave a mm or two off one tube later.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> 
> 
> Just have to shave a mm or two off one tube later.


nice clean look, very simple and elegant...


----------



## khemist

To whoever gave me rep and asked where the pump is, it's mounted directly to the radiator outlet, i have to get lighting sorted yet.


----------



## SpikeV

Quick teaser . . .

the boro Dragon tubes for  are finished . . .









planning to light them up with a couple of Monsoon Light Ports (thanks to Rainmaker91 for the lead -







)


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Nothing special, hell its a 6 year old platform, but heres mine


Still clean, still solid. Switch up when it breaks!


----------



## KCDC

delete... damn internet


----------



## bluedevil

Soo impressed.....

https://ibb.co/eHVuWa

https://ibb.co/f4sKxF


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Soo impressed.....
> 
> https://ibb.co/eHVuWa
> 
> https://ibb.co/f4sKxF


Been eyeballing that enermax res/pump. Silent? Nice build!


----------



## Chopper1591

Vega is nearly here. Or is it already?









Anyway...
Time to make some decisions now. As it will be necessary to redo the loop for obvious reasons I am at the point of: which color coolant to use?
I have been using clear the past year with my first time using Acrylic tubing.

Looking for some advice from you guys. As you see my build is red/black.



I am thinking about going white, red or black on the coolant. White will probably break the color a bit.
I think red will be too much with the case being red already. Black is a bit dark.









Also, I really hope I can manage to mount the pump/res combo to the right of the gpu. Although it seems like the Vega 64 will be even longer than my current card (R9 290 tri-x).


----------



## emsj86

. Just got bored tried some purple dye. I like the white better but I think I might keep throng different colors.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vega is nearly here. Or is it already?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway...
> Time to make some decisions now. As it will be necessary to redo the loop for obvious reasons I am at the point of: which color coolant to use?
> I have been using clear the past year with my first time using Acrylic tubing.
> 
> Looking for some advice from you guys. As you see my build is red/black.
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking about going white, red or black on the coolant. White will probably break the color a bit.
> I think red will be too much with the case being red already. Black is a bit dark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I really hope I can manage to mount the pump/res combo to the right of the gpu. Although it seems like the Vega 64 will be even longer than my current card (R9 290 tri-x).


It won't be longer than the 290, in fact it's a tiny bit shorter. Anyway, here is a picture of my previous pump mount with a 7950 (7970 PCB. so 27.5 cm) mounted. Though this is with a DDC pump/res combo and not a d5.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that power house.


Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It's been awhile since I've contributed a picture hasn't it... well let's change that. Build is finally DONE! Just need to take and edit some more photos.
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> That is one hell of a compact machine, bet it weighs a metric ton. Though it looks like all that weight will aid in some serious performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What sort of specific hardware are you packing in that box?
Click to expand...

It doesn't weigh too much. I can easily carry it around. It has an i7 3930k, 16GB RAM, and dual 970's.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Thanks!
> It doesn't weigh too much. I can easily carry it around. It has an i7 3930k, 16GB RAM, and dual 970's.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


I see, still that's quite a bit of performance in a small box. As far as weight goes I'm probably way off in my estimates from just looking at things, though I guess my view is heavily biased since I have to mount wheels on my Enthoo Primo to be able to move it around properly


----------



## b0z0

Fixed the leaking 90° fitting. Here is a pic of the system while leak testing


----------



## GraphicsWhore

I finished this almost 2 months ago but hadn't thought to post here somehow. First water build.

Ended up doing a bunch of random, custom stuff and amazingly it all kind of worked out. Overclocked to hell and basically silent.

Parts list, tons more pics at build thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1633016/gallery-build-log-dcs4-pc-ps4-hybrid











A few days ago added an external disk to the front to introduce some more red. Not sure if it'll be permanent yet. Still thinking of other potential additions as well.


----------



## jura11

In middle of building of loop for my friend



Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> I finished this almost 2 months ago but hadn't thought to post here somehow. First water build.
> 
> Ended up doing a bunch of random, custom stuff and amazingly it all kind of worked out. Overclocked to hell and basically silent.
> 
> Parts list, tons more pics at build thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1633016/gallery-build-log-dcs4-pc-ps4-hybrid
> 
> A few days ago added an external disk to the front to introduce some more red. Not sure if it'll be permanent yet. Still thinking of other potential additions as well.


I liked it. Than I saw he Washington ssd covers. ???


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> I finished this almost 2 months ago but hadn't thought to post here somehow. First water build.
> 
> Ended up doing a bunch of random, custom stuff and amazingly it all kind of worked out. Overclocked to hell and basically silent.
> 
> Parts list, tons more pics at build thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1633016/gallery-build-log-dcs4-pc-ps4-hybrid
> 
> A few days ago added an external disk to the front to introduce some more red. Not sure if it'll be permanent yet. Still thinking of other potential additions as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked it. Than I saw he Washington ssd covers. ???
Click to expand...

I know right? SF 9ers an Giants, okay, DC Skins an Nats? Bleh.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Could have at least used the Caps instead of the Nationals lol


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Could have at least used the Caps instead of the Nationals lol


It was Caps for a while:




Plus their logo is across the back.

Will change it to Skins next month. When football is over, back to Caps. No room for the Wizards I guess!


----------



## PCSarge

time to sneak in and post up my pretty colors, and finally a waterblock on my RX480.



and yes, lilith lives in my pc.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

I'm sure you guys are tired of noob questions and I tried searching the forum but my tablet and work network are not playing ball

When running a parallel loop, does it matter how you connect the GPU to CPU ? ... or do you just run straight lines from each port ? ... (sorry for the stupid question, but I have never done this before)

Basically I will be running my GPU vertically, I will be going from the CPU to GPU by looping "over" the GPU to the ports facing the side panel and then running from the ports on the back of the card down to the rest of my loop (behind the card down and out left and right)

Would this work ?


----------



## LastRages

Been out of the loop for a little while and now seeing all these amazing looking machines makes me want to ditch my air cooler and go back to a customer loop!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I'm sure you guys are tired of noob questions and I tried searching the forum but my tablet and work network are not playing ball
> 
> When running a parallel loop, does it matter how you connect the GPU to CPU ? ... or do you just run straight lines from each port ? ... (sorry for the stupid question, but I have never done this before)
> 
> Basically I will be running my GPU vertically, I will be going from the CPU to GPU by looping "over" the GPU to the ports facing the side panel and then running from the ports on the back of the card down to the rest of my loop (behind the card down and out left and right)
> 
> Would this work ?


Yes it does, or to some extent at least. You want to make sure that you use the inlet port as inlet on both the graphics card block and the CPU block. Since jetplates are so common in blocks these days you really want to make sure you utilize the flow direction properly, for me that entailed having to turn my EKWB Supremacy upside down so that the inlet port aligned with the inlet port on the graphics card. Other than that there really isn't much to it, the pressure will equalize and the flow will be constant through both blocks.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yes it does, or to some extent at least. You want to make sure that you use the inlet port as inlet on both the graphics card block and the CPU block. For me that entailed having to turn my EKWB Supremacy upside down so that the inlet port aligned with the inlet port on the graphics card.


That is a small problem, I am using a monoblock, so I cannot rotate it at all. But according to EK's website the "GPU block features a central inlet split-flow cooling engine design for best possible cooling performance, which also works flawlessly with reversed water flow" ...

Does that mean that it shouldn't make a difference ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> That is a small problem, I am using a monoblock, so I cannot rotate it at all. But according to EK's website the "GPU block features a central inlet split-flow cooling engine design for best possible cooling performance, which also works flawlessly with reversed water flow" ...
> 
> Does that mean that it shouldn't make a difference ?


Well... it does make a difference, but if you don't have a choice there really isn't much to do about it. It does also work in reverse, though not as efficiently if I remember correctly so a couple of degree difference is to be expected. I ran my GPU in reverse for half a year without knowing it so it's not like it's dangerous, though temps could be a slight bit better when running it the correct way. Either way as long as there is liquid running through the blocks they will do their job, if a slight bit less efficient.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well... it does make a difference, but if you don't have a choice there really isn't much to do about it. It does also work in reverse, though not as efficiently if I remember correctly so a couple of degree difference is to be expected. I ran my GPU in reverse for half a year without knowing it so it's not like it's dangerous, though temps could be a slight bit better when running it the correct way. Either way as long as there is liquid running through the blocks they will do their job, if a slight bit less efficient.


Thanks very much for the replies man, I really appreciate it







... I hope you have a great day further


----------



## SauronTheGreat

Hello everyone, recently i made the choice of letting go of the standard AIO cooling for my i7 - 6850k cpu in my case i have a Corsair H115i cooler with push and pull fan configuration, so in my local gaming community a guy was selling is liquid cooling custom kit its specification are as follows :-

WATER RESERVOIR:
1 x EK-Multioption RES X2 - 250 Basic (EK-RES-X2-250-D)

WATER PUMP:
1 x Swiftech MCP655 Special Edition 12 VDC Pump With Speed Controller (MCP655-SE)

FITTINGS:
Bitspower Premium G1/4" Black Matte High Flow 3/8" (5/8") Compression Fitting (BP-MBCPF-CC3)

CPU BLOCK:
1 x EK-Supremacy CPU Water Block - Nickel - CSQ (EK-SUPREMACY-NK)

RADIATOR:
XSPC AX360 Triple 120mm Radiator w/ Aluminum Enclosure - Black

I shall recieve it tomorrow it comes with all the soft tubing and all its fittings, mayhem fluid and fans etc ...

Thankfully EK ships products in my country so last night i ordered an EK XE 360 Rad...

So my question is in the recent future should i get a newer pump and the reservior mentioned enough is good enough for custom cooling my cpu , is this cpu block a decent one, because i think so it is and i do not plan to custom my gpu
And sorry i am a total newbie in the custom cooling game

My specs are
Corsair 900D super tower
I7 - 6850k
Asus v rampage edition 10


----------



## VSG

For customers in the USA: https://modmymods.com//news/2_Year_Sale/

It's their 2-year anniversary so there are some pretty decent sales here- well worth checking out.


----------



## b0z0

Finally completed my build

Delided Intel 7700k
Asrock z270 Gaming K6
Corsair 16GB Red Led 3200Mhz
Evga SC Black edition 1080ti
Samsung 960 Evo 500GB
Fractal Define S
Corsair AX750 with Moddiy red and black cables

Water-cooling Components
2 - XSPC EX360 Radiators
XSPC Photon 270mm Res/Pump combo
XSPC Razor GTX 1080 / 1080 Ti COMBO Water Block/Backplate
XSPC RayStorm Pro RGB WaterBlock
XSPC fittings all Black Chrome
Corsair Red LED SP 120mm fans

Bad picture


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For customers in the USA: https://modmymods.com//news/2_Year_Sale/
> 
> It's their 2-year anniversary so there are some pretty decent sales here- well worth checking out.


reminds me I need to stop by their shop on my way back to GA and harass them lol (been friends w/ them on Instagram for a couple years now too)


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For customers in the USA: https://modmymods.com//news/2_Year_Sale/
> 
> It's their 2-year anniversary so there are some pretty decent sales here- well worth checking out.


I don't need anything but I'm trying to find any excuse to buy lol. Some great prices. Thanks for posting.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> I don't need anything but I'm trying to find any excuse to buy lol. Some great prices. Thanks for posting.


Thanks for this. I did t need anything. But I picked up some pastel coolant and some various fittings I probably wouldn't have bought if not on sale. Wish they had 16mm barrow fittings as I would have bought them for sure. I ordered the uv white pastel has anyone used it and does it look different than the normal pastel white


----------



## Ceadderman

$14 GTs is a sick deal! Too bad they are OoS on the 550-1850s. I would get a few of those in a heartbeat.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just ordered the Aquacomputer kryoM.2 evo PCIe 3.0 x4 so I can run a second m.2


----------



## SauronTheGreat

When you bleed your system are you suppose to take out both the motherboard 24 pin psu cable and cpu cable or both ? Sorry its my first time


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> When you bleed your system are you suppose to take out both the motherboard 24 pin psu cable and cpu cable or both ? Sorry its my first time


It is enough with only the 24P. At least the motherboard would not fire at all, nor show any lights.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just ordered the Aquacomputer kryoM.2 evo PCIe 3.0 x4 so I can run a second m.2


I have one for my current M.2 NVMe, temps dropped quite a bit. It used to max out at 70°C. Now it sits at 36°C max.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just ordered the Aquacomputer kryoM.2 evo PCIe 3.0 x4 so I can run a second m.2


works great with my rather toasty ocz rd400...but the string of activity leds is as bight as the sun


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> works great with my rather toasty ocz rd400...but the strign of activiy leds is as bight as the sun


Mine's an OEM-Branded OCZ RD400, the Toshiba XG3 or THNSN5256GPU7 M.2 NVMe SSD. They do indeed get quite hot.

I turned the orange LED off, only have a small orange LED blinking on the side.


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I have one for my current M.2 NVMe, temps dropped quite a bit. It used to max out at 70°C. Now it sits at 36°C max.


That's really cool man! How much you bought this?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I paid $33 US for mine thanks to ModMyMods' Anniversary sale


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienalvan*
> 
> That's really cool man! How much you bought this?


It cost me €39 including shipping. It's well worth the money, imho. My M.2 got really hot due to the fact my monoblock covers most of the M.2 slot, which results in ****ty airflow over the SSD.


----------



## Revan654

I prefer the old ones, No LED (since there bright Orange). Plus WaterBlock(You can put waterblock on the evo but they look very odd). I also attached a pair of Vision GPU blocks on them.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Well here's my latest build, minus my GTX-1080Ti, It's heading back to Asus for a small repair before I put the block on it and set it up to match the rest of my hardware.
Board: Asus Maximus IX Extreme
CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k @ 4.8 Ghz, I do plan to push for more, but I plan to wait till I get a few more things and some time to delid.
Ram: GSkill Trident Z RGB, 3866 Mhz, I haven't yet hit their rated speed yet.
Core Drive: Samsung 960 Pro 512 Gb
Fans: 3 Corsair ML120s, 4 Noctua NF-F12s, 1 Bitfenix Spectre Pro 200, 2 Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120s, 1 Corsair ML140. I do plan to replace the 2 Spectre Pro 120s with 2 more of the ML120s.
Pump: Swiftech Swiftech MCP655-PWM, The RPM and PWM controls on this pump have died so it runs at full speed all the time. I plan on getting something different.
PSU: Corsair AX860i with Cablemod Modflex Cables.
GPUs: 2 EVGA GTX-780SCs in SLi, My ASUS GTX-1080Ti Founder's Edition is away for repairs. When it comes back I am going to be putting on the EK Waterblock I have for it and replacing my old cards.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Gave it a little clean tonight.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's my latest build, minus my GTX-1080Ti, It's heading back to Asus for a small repair before I put the block on it and set it up to match the rest of my hardware.
> Board: Asus Maximus IX Extreme
> CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k @ 4.8 Ghz, I do plan to push for more, but I plan to wait till I get a few more things and some time to delid.
> Ram: GSkill Trident Z RGB, 3866 Mhz, I haven't yet hit their rated speed yet.
> Core Drive: Samsung 960 Pro 512 Gb
> Fans: 3 Corsair ML120s, 4 Noctua NF-F12s, 1 Bitfenix Spectre Pro 200, 2 Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120s, 1 Corsair ML140. I do plan to replace the 2 Spectre Pro 120s with 2 more of the ML120s.
> Pump: Swiftech Swiftech MCP655-PWM, The RPM and PWM controls on this pump have died so it runs at full speed all the time. I plan on getting something different.
> PSU: Corsair AX860i with Cablemod Modflex Cables.
> GPUs: 2 EVGA GTX-780SCs in SLi, My ASUS GTX-1080Ti Founder's Edition is away for repairs. When it comes back I am going to be putting on the EK Waterblock I have for it and replacing my old cards.


Tidy up the cables a bit (maybe get some cable combs to help), and you got a really nice looking build there. I assume it's still a bit of a "work in progress" since you mention that you are waiting on your 1080ti and will be adding that to the loop as well. So it's not a total turn off, it's just that when you went through all that trouble of colour coding everything and setting it up neatly things like messy cables just don't make sense (see if you can hide or at least tidy up the cables behind the PSU as well to complete the look).

Other than that red builds look great when done correctly, so well done


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Tidy up the cables a bit (maybe get some cable combs to help), and you got a really nice looking build there. I assume it's still a bit of a "work in progress" since you mention that you are waiting on your 1080ti and will be adding that to the loop as well. So it's not a total turn off, it's just that when you went through all that trouble of colour coding everything and setting it up neatly things like messy cables just don't make sense (see if you can hide or at least tidy up the cables behind the PSU as well to complete the look).
> 
> Other than that red builds look great when done correctly, so well done


I do plan on getting some combs, at the same time I switch to hardline and get a new pump. So far the best I've managed on this system with the overclocks is 5.0Ghz on the CPU and 3000Mhz on the Ram.later on, after I get the GPU back from repair I may go digging for more on the Ram.


----------



## Hello Man

Anyone wanna see a new build? No? Sucks for you.

If anyone wants to know of some cheap RGB ram for RYZEN-the Team Delta RGB DDR4 is great and works even though it isn't officially on the supported list. Much cheaper than G Skill trident stuff, and still retains Aura functionality!






No hard line yet, and no custom cables either, but my motherboard came with a 20% off coupon for cable mod, so custom cables WILL HAPPEN. I also think I shall use borosilicate glass hard line sometime later this year. This is the life of a poor student/scrub.

Current specs of this rig are:

Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.7Ghz running 1.3 vcore
16 GB Team Delta RGB DDR4 2400 Mhz (will become 32GB next month)
EVGA NEX 650G power supply
Asus Strix X370-F Gaming Motherboard
Kingston 250GB SSD
320GB WD Green HDD
2 x 3TB Seagate drives in Raid 1
EVGA GTX 780 TI SC (3GB)
probably forgetting something....

OH Phanteks RGB strips (40 cm)

The Loop:

Apogee HD from swiftech
MCP35x pump (also swiftech)
XSPC EX 360 rad
EVGA Hydro copper 780 block (swiftech OEM) I SWEAR NO SWIFTECH BIAS
Phobya Balancer 150 in black nickel
XSPC black nickel compression fittings
Primochill 3/4 OD primo flex white tubing
probably forgetting something here too


----------



## FXformat

My wall mounted case, 4 monitor cables are awful to hide behind the case and wall.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> My wall mounted case, 4 monitor cables are awful to hide behind the case and wall.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There ya are... I have been wondering where your clean builds went too. Yet again another super clean build well done, You are really making me like just a clear fluid


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> There ya are... I have been wondering where your clean builds went too. Yet again another super clean build well done, You are really making me like just a clear fluid


Thanks man! I'm boring, and lazy, last time i did blue dye it took forever to clean out so i'm hesitant to do that again. Besides, save me money, distilled water is cheap


----------



## Hello Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Thanks man! I'm boring, and lazy, last time i did blue dye it took forever to clean out so i'm hesitant to do that again. Besides, save me money, distilled water is cheap


I love the look of mayhems pastel stuff but it is super expensive for what it is, which looks like milk+food coloring. Distilled water club









EDIT: Got any favorite black fans (preferably PWM) that work well on rads? Preferably not super expensive....


----------



## Mega Man

Gentle Typhoon dark side


----------



## Chaoz

EK Vardars. Although I don't have any experience with them they do perform great.

I can recommend Noctua Industrials but they're quite expensive. Got 7 Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM for my radiators even at 900rpm they still push quite a bit of air around.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Love my vardars, definitely currently have 4 ER black versions and they work great and are very quiet. There is also a new version with stop start technology, which I am tempted to upgrade to!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hello Man*
> 
> I love the look of mayhems pastel stuff but it is super expensive for what it is, which looks like milk+food coloring. Distilled water club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Got any favorite black fans (preferably PWM) that work well on rads? Preferably not super expensive....


Lot's of terrific black PWM fans, but it all depends on budget as you mentioned you don't want super expencive ones. If you can live with grey blades on a fan then Corsair has their dual packs of ML120 fans for a decent rebate, otherwise the single fans are about the same price as any other premium fan (about 20$) and those are black and not grey like the twin pack. There is also the Be Quiet Silent Wings 3, and if you want relatively cheap ones that still perform decent then there is always the Cooler Master Silencio fans (slightly cheaper, but also slightly lower performance).

Also... Noctua Industrial, EKWB Vardar and Gentle Typhoon are all terrific as well but have already been mentioned.


----------



## toggLesss

the latest build:

NCase M1 w/ tempered glass side panel
Delidded 7700K
Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080 ti


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> My wall mounted case, 4 monitor cables are awful to hide behind the case and wall.


That looks really awesome


----------



## looniam

i hear a small girls voice everytime i see that case on the wall, "mom! dad is putting holes in the wall again!"


----------



## mixsetup

EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120 (3000rpm) work great I have them. They are black but the cable is red which in my case doesn't matter. They are loud but I have software slow them down on startup and speed them up when I want to play games. I did hear they were making a silent version.

They do a great job though.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> . Just got bored tried some purple dye. I like the white better but I think I might keep throng different colors.


I'm loving that setup design


----------



## khemist

Picked up some bits, no Watercool block released for this card so for went with EK.


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]https://postimages.org/
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up some bits, no Watercool block released for this card so for went with EK.










Wow! Those are real sharp shots! May I ask what photo gear you are using?


----------



## khemist

Thanks, nothing fancy, Nikon D3100, 35mm F1.8G no extra lighting.


----------



## jura11

Bit of upgrade for me

Replaced Mayhems UV White 13/10 for EK ZMT 16/10 and used as previously Barrow "Choice" 16/10 fittings and fluid is Mayhems X1 with red dye,swapped Noiseblocker BlackSilent XLP for Phanteks PH-F120MP on EK XE360mm radiator and removed 120mm radiator as well as has been useless I think and caused only restriction

From Barrow I used like 45 degree fittings,90 degree and G1/4 temperature sensor which works with Aquaero plus G1/4 Aqua Link

These Barrow 16/10 Choice fittings works pretty much very well with EK ZMT but they're bit harder to tighten up but works OK and no leaks etc









Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## RMStringer




----------



## SauronTheGreat

Is this fluid good, do i need to add something more in it for better performance or something ?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> Is this fluid good, do i need to add something more in it for better performance or something ?


If it's the 1ltr coolant, its usually good to go. However I would add some biocide if you can.

Here's mine changed up. 7900X WC'd with a 360mm Swifty rad, and a 220mm Swifty Rad in the front.









https://ibb.co/cCMimk


----------



## SauronTheGreat

Your looks great, i would love to upgrade to the x299 platform in the future, may i ask what does this biocide help to achieve which you mentioned ?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> Your looks great, i would love to upgrade to the x299 platform in the future, may i ask what does this biocide help to achieve which you mentioned ?


It deters from bacteria/algae growth, also helps fight against galvanic corrosion.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> If it's the 1ltr coolant, its usually good to go. However I would add some biocide if you can.
> 
> Here's mine changed up. 7900X WC'd with a 360mm Swifty rad, and a 220mm Swifty Rad in the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://ibb.co/cCMimk


That looks like just the distilled water, there is nothing inherently wrong with it but it's aimed at use with concentrates like the X1, XT-1 and XT-1 Nuke. Though you seem to know this as you recommend biocide, a purely anti bacterial mixture won't deter corrosion so as mix is better than just a biocide.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> That looks like just the distilled water, there is nothing inherently wrong with it but it's aimed at use with concentrates like the X1, XT-1 and XT-1 Nuke. Though you seem to know this as you recommend biocide, a purely anti bacterial mixture won't deter corrosion so as mix is better than just a biocide.


Absolutely, as I run DW and some biocide myself. I do change out parts regularly and do alot of cleaning.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Absolutely, as I run DW and some biocide myself. I do change out parts regularly and do alot of cleaning.


Of-course, just wanted to mention it. Using a pure biocide such as PTNuke works well if there is no mixed metals, but with the amount of steel introduced in modern loops (combined with nickel and brass as well as silver of-course) anti corrosion additives are still relatively important. Thus something like X1 is in my eyes a better recommendation than just a biocide.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Of-course, just wanted to mention it. Using a pure biocide such as PTNuke works well if there is no mixed metals, but with the amount of steel introduced in modern loops (combined with nickel and brass as well as silver of-course) anti corrosion additives are still relatively important. Thus something like X1 is in my eyes a better recommendation than just a biocide.


I very much agree. For long term, XT1 is a much better choice.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> It deters from bacteria/algae growth, *also helps fight against galvanic corrosion*.


Biocide does not do this. Its purely anti biological and ,in some instances,can actually accelerate corrosion dependent on formulation.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/poNmpCTrj

https://imageshack.com/i/pmYniYLnj

Picked up some fans and a 240 multiport to go in the define C along with another 240, just need to figure the loop out now.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Biocide does not do this. Its purely anti biological and ,in some instances,can actually accelerate corrosion dependent on formulation.


ahh, thanks for the clarification sir!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was personally thinking of going w/ XT1 due to longevity, but might wait to see how Mick's new nano fluid turns out and what it's duration/ runtime is.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/poNmpCTrj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pmYniYLnj
> 
> Picked up some fans and a 240 multiport to go in the define C along with another 240, just need to figure the loop out now.


I'm curious, have you noticed any issues with having them in pull like that? I didn't have any issues with my eloops as longs as they were below 1000rpm, but I know they can make a fair bit of noise if they are placed to close to a fan grill or radiator.


----------



## khemist

I've not used them yet, will report back.


----------



## SauronTheGreat

so basically you are saying to get this 'XT - 1' in my distilled water instead of the biocide, may i ask is this XT - 1 ? google was not much help :'(


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> so basically you are saying to get this 'XT - 1' in my distilled water instead of the biocide, may i ask is this XT - 1 ? google was not much help :'(


XT1 is a coolant by Mayhems . Most people run the X1 coolant though and flush and refill every 12 months.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercooling-fluids/shopby/brand--mayhems/


----------



## dicom

Changed to rigid tubing, few pics:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Picked up some fans and a 240 multiport to go in the define C along with another 240, just need to figure the loop out now.


Are those the ones that have issues with pull/Push? I recall awhile back some saying due to the blade design the fans don't work that well in that kind of setup.


----------



## khemist

Not sure, i'm going to be using in push only.


----------



## moRReus

So, I've got a MSI GTX 1080 Seahawk EK now on the way and I just had a thought.... that EK block is nickel plated, is that going to be a problem since I'm using distilled with a kill coil?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Don't want to use a killcoil with a nickel block


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Are those the ones that have issues with pull/Push? I recall awhile back some saying due to the blade design the fans don't work that well in that kind of setup.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Not sure, i'm going to be using in push only.


I did some heavy research a while back, sorry I didn't save the work... But I do remember reading the same thing. Those are some seriously sweet looking fans though and I really wanted them.

I settled on Vardar ER's because of performance reviews and data, then found a bunch on sale at EKs site, that were even pre cut for different wire lengths. That sealed the deal. They are amazing so far.

Please report back on your outcomes. Would still love to try them in an HTPC build.


----------



## moRReus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Don't want to use a killcoil with a nickel block


That's what I was afraid of.... Shoot. Now I'm not sure what I want to do. The block doesn't really match my build, but I caught it on a good deal. I might just return it. Decisions...


----------



## Revan654

Singularity Computers recently did a video on corrosion. Which they talk about distilled water, Coolant, biocide, etc... It might worth watching for those asking about all those elements.

Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Evab4rhd48I


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I did some heavy research a while back, sorry I didn't save the work... But I do remember reading the same thing. Those are some seriously sweet looking fans though and I really wanted them.
> 
> I settled on Vardar ER's because of performance reviews and data, then found a bunch on sale at EKs site, that were even pre cut for different wire lengths. That sealed the deal. They are amazing so far.
> 
> Please report back on your outcomes. Would still love to try them in an HTPC build.


They work fine in push/pull, you just have to be weary of the specific RPM they run at (anything above 1000RPM will give some noises). A "fix" to using them in pull is to have a shroud for them as the noise comes from turbulence caused by the grill/fins in front of it. That is only in a pull configuration though and of-course you have to space them a slight bit away from a fan grill as the blades move enough from the frame that they will catch on stuff.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm currently running EK's EVO coolant and have zero issues with it (very similar to Mayhems X1) but I'm only running it due to only paying $10/ Premix thanks to the employee discount I had when I worked with MicroCenter


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Don't want to use a killcoil *at all*


FTFY


----------



## catbuster

Black eloops are gorgeous, phobya have some rebrands but u all know how we feel about buying from alphastool, wish noiseblocker would sell non pwm version of these black fans


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'm currently running EK's EVO coolant and have zero issues with it (very similar to Mayhems X1) but I'm only running it due to only paying $10/ Premix thanks to the employee discount I had when I worked with MicroCenter


PPCS had a close out sale on those awhile back, They were about 7 dollars a bottle. My one PC still uses it, I stock piled some just in case I need some more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> They work fine in push/pull, you just have to be weary of the specific RPM they run at (anything above 1000RPM will give some noises). A "fix" to using them in pull is to have a shroud for them as the noise comes from turbulence caused by the grill/fins in front of it. That is only in a pull configuration though and of-course you have to space them a slight bit away from a fan grill as the blades move enough from the frame that they will catch on stuff.


I was just curious if they still had issues or not (They do look nice). I personally don't like putting shroud or gasket on my rads/fans. They just look tacky when you do. I'm happy with all ML 140 Pro's I have(all 28 of them).


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I stock piled on coolant and ZMT tubing before I quit at MicroCenter lol


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> PPCS had a close out sale on those awhile back, They were about 7 dollars a bottle. My one PC still uses it, I stock piled some just in case I need some more.
> I was just curious if they still had issues or not (They do look nice). I personally don't like putting shroud or gasket on my rads/fans. They just look tacky when you do. I'm happy with all ML 140 Pro's I have(all 28 of them).


I completely agree, it's one of the main reasons why I went away from using them for my build. Still, they do work in pull you just have to take some precautions. If you're fine with the issues then they are terrific fans, and make very little noise when operating (and the noise they do make is more like a "wosh" sort of sound that the wind would make). Unfortunately I need to have some of my fans in pull position so I dropped them, not to mention I foolishly bought the 1900rpm versions when I should have bought the 800rpm versions. So for the moment I am content with my cheap Arctic f12 fans as a substitution, though I'm still looking at good alternatives to Eloops that run at super low rpm.


----------



## fa5terba11

Time Spy with Strix Bios


----------



## SauronTheGreat

would it be ok to add two of the EK's Cryofuel concentrate 100ml to prevent corrosion and algae etc in to distilled water which i got from the market, as a coolant ?


----------



## alienalvan

My 1st hard tubing attempt and my 1st hard tube installed, difficult level higher than I expected. Continue to work on it and hopefully can get it done by tomorrow.



After installed the 1st tubing it seems it's not good enough whereby making my GPU off level.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> would it be ok to add two of the EK's Cryofuel concentrate 100ml to prevent corrosion and algae etc in to distilled water which i got from the market, as a coolant ?


Yes, Distilled water is used to mix most of these coolants. It may not go through the extra filtering some of the Pure H20 does that made by Mayhem or AlphaCool. I don't think the there will be a difference when using it inside a system.

After all EK states using Distilled water to dilute the concentrate(It's right on the website & bottle).


----------



## emsj86

try slow low heat wait until as you are spinning it in your hand it goes limp than wait a few seconds and gradually start bending it. make the 90 than cut back what you need.


----------



## VSG

Got a Swiftech Apogee SKF Heirloom Edition block here yesterday:









Everything comes in a wooden box which in turn was packed in a felt drawstrong pouch. The exact combination was chosen by Swiftech for this review sample, but they still engraved my name next to the serial number on the block which is what all customers got to choose too.


----------



## iamjanco

^ So, will it be under-water soon?

Sorry, couldn't resist--you're in Houston, right? Be safe.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> ^ So, will it be under-water soon?
> 
> Sorry, couldn't resist--you're in Houston, right? Be safe.


LOL no worries. All good here for now.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Got a Swiftech Apogee SKF Heirloom Edition block here yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> Everything comes in a wooden box which in turn was packed in a felt drawstrong pouch. The exact combination was chosen by Swiftech for this review sample, but they still engraved my name next to the serial number on the block which is what all customers got to choose too.


I'm not typically a fan if swiftech cpu blocks, aesthetically, but this one actually looks pretty good.

*edit*

Just looked up the price and, wow, a lot less than I expected. Just over a hundred WITH engraving. I thought 150,maybe more.


----------



## Mega Man

depends on the cooling. i have my doubts, swiftech imo needs to upgrade type, but we will see please let me know when your review is ready ~!


----------



## alienalvan

Finally finished assembling my 1st hard tubing and the tube bending process was fun (of course with a few spare PETG tube sacrifices), any comment are welcome and do let me know if there's any improvement can be make. Time to start my leak test and hope everything go smooth ?


----------



## Deacon

Never posted my Panda build here, hope you guys enjoy:


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deacon*
> 
> Never posted my Panda build here, hope you guys enjoy:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks very nice... I remember that motherboard fondly. Out of curiosity, why didn't you put the GPU under water as well? Just wondering as those GPU fans have to be quite audible from the desk position if gaming or rendering (I'm sure the fans are off or silent with just desktop use however. I'm sure the headphones make that less of an issue though.

Regardless, very clean placement and your wiremold channel looks good too.


----------



## Deacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Looks very nice... I remember that motherboard fondly. Out of curiosity, why didn't you put the GPU under water as well? Just wondering as those GPU fans have to be quite audible from the desk position if gaming or rendering (I'm sure the fans are off or silent with just desktop use however. I'm sure the headphones make that less of an issue though.
> 
> Regardless, very clean placement and your wiremold channel looks good too.


Thanks man, well personally don't think it's worth it you void warranty and then theres the extra €€€, and to be honest this strix 1070 is quite as a mouse even in full load, my next upgrade will be the cpu it served me well but its at its end, will probably get a 8700k when its out.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deacon*
> 
> Thanks man, well personally don't think it's worth it you void warranty and then theres the extra €€€, and to be honest this strix 1070 is quite as a mouse even in full load, my next upgrade will be the cpu it served me well but its at its end, will probably get a 8700k when its out.


Fair enough. Yeah I know I wouldn't be able to hear my 1080 at all even if I'd left it air cooled... but it just felt wrong to me. Plus, possibly just lucky, but I've never had to RMA a GPU I put under water - had several on air however. I'm sure running at 80C+ vs 43C at most probably contributes to that but as long as you like it, that's all that matters!

I love my 7700K but to be honest, my 3770K _felt_ every bit as fast... if it weren't for NVMe SSDs I probably wouldn't have upgraded.


----------



## Deacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Fair enough. Yeah I know I wouldn't be able to hear my 1080 at all even if I'd left it air cooled... but it just felt wrong to me. Plus, possibly just lucky, but I've never had to RMA a GPU I put under water - had several on air however. I'm sure running at 80C+ vs 43C at most probably contributes to that but as long as you like it, that's all that matters!
> 
> I love my 7700K but to be honest, my 3770K felt every bit as fast... if it weren't for NVMe SSDs I probably wouldn't have upgraded.


Well problem is here in Portugal, resell value would just take a dive if I don't have warranty on it I usually change GPU every 2 years and my Strix has 3 years warranty, that and watercooling here is a niche so it would be very hard to sell the block as well. And I'v had to RMA 3 cards to date haha all 3 Nvidia cards, The 1070 never goes past 60c witch is quite amazing, compared to a R9 290 I had that was very loud and was always hitting 80c, if not more in the summer. My problem right now is I'm gaming at 144hz, and the CPU+ram is my bottleneck, my gpu usage rarely goes above 70%, and I need to push more frames since in most games I can't get a stabe 144fps.


----------



## Jyve

Cross your collective fingers!


----------



## khemist

Back on water again in the Define C TG, i'll get a pic in daylight tomorrow.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back on water again in the Define C TG, i'll get a pic in daylight tomorrow.


Sexy!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> depends on the cooling. i have my doubts, swiftech imo needs to upgrade type, but we will see please let me know when your review is ready ~!


Sure, will send a PM. Since I am basically stuck at home thanks to Harvey, I got some flow restriction tests done and this is even more restrictive than the already restrictive Apogee XL. The microfins look extremely thin so I wasn't completely surprised, but now the thermal performance has to back it up.


----------



## khemist

Cpu inlet is a bit off but i'm probably changing things anyway so will leave as is.


----------



## LastRages

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should cpu inlet as it's a bit off but i'm probably changing things anyway so will leave as is.


Lookin' good.

Any plans on to add some coloured liquid to the loop or just going to stick with clear?


----------



## khemist

Maybe if I get bored after i've got it how I want it.


----------



## lever2stacks

here's my completed parvum r1.0 build









Lever


----------



## alienalvan

Finished my RGB hard tubing build finally & able to boost to 5ghz for my 7700k









Specs:
- i7 7700k
- Asus Z270 Prime AR
- MSI Seahawk GTX 1080Ti 11G
- Team Nighthawk 32G RAM (Red LED & going to replace by RGB)

Water Cooling set:
- Barrow LTFHB-02N CPU block (RGB)
- Barrow PETG hard tubings
- Byski fittings
- Non-branded XHC8 pump
- Non-branded 240mm reservoir
- Coolant mix of Mayhem X1-T clear with distilled water (Some old blue dye stuck there







)


----------



## Simmons572

Hey folks, hoping to pick your brains for a future watercooling loop I am planning for threadripper. I am new to the world of custom WC builds, so any assistance would be greatly appreciated.









I want to build a custom loop for a threadripper CPU in a corsair air 740. I only want to cool the CPU for the time being, as I am constantly swapping out GPUs for various projects.
I would like to use a 280mm rad, as I like the look of the bigger radiator in the top of the case (I've used a Kraken X60 and Corsair H100i).
I would also like to use black soft-tubing, as I really like that aesthetic.
I would like to mount the reservoir in in the rear of the case in order to keep it out of the way, and to keep the front chamber as open as possible.


Spoiler: A couple pics of the Air 740






















It looks like the case has built-in reservoir mounts in the rear chamber (which I circled in the Spoiler above), which makes my life a lot easier.

So anyways, with all that information, these are the parts I have picked out so far:

XSPC Raystorm STR4 (When it eventually releases)
Black Ice Nemesis L-Series 280mm Radiator
Alphacool Laing DDC- Pump 12V D DC-1T PWM
Protium DD C Mod Kit - Polished Acrylic S ilver
Protium - Small 100m m - Silver Polished
Protium - Reser voir Mount : Core Sin gle
EK-Tube ZM T Rubber 1 5.9/9.5mm (5/8" x 3/ 8") Tubing - Matte B lack
(x6) Bitsp ower Premi um G1/4" B lack Spark le High Fl ow 3/8" (5 /8") Compr ession Fit ting
A lot of the parts are inspired by Singularity Computer's videos, as that's really the extent of what I know about watercooling.








As of right now, for all of this, I am looking at ~$400 for all this, which seems pretty overwhelming. Are there any suggestions that you all would make to better optimize this shopping list?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Hey folks, hoping to pick your brains for a future watercooling loop I am planning for threadripper. I am new to the world of custom WC builds, so any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to build a custom loop for a threadripper CPU in a corsair air 740. I only want to cool the CPU for the time being, as I am constantly swapping out GPUs for various projects.
> I would like to use a 280mm rad, as I like the look of the bigger radiator in the top of the case (I've used a Kraken X60 and Corsair H100i).
> I would also like to use black soft-tubing, as I really like that aesthetic.
> I would like to mount the reservoir in in the rear of the case in order to keep it out of the way, and to keep the front chamber as open as possible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: A couple pics of the Air 740
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like the case has built-in reservoir mounts in the rear chamber (which I circled in the Spoiler above), which makes my life a lot easier.
> 
> *So anyways, with all that information, these are the parts I have picked out so far:
> *
> 
> XSPC Raystorm STR4 (When it eventually releases)
> Black Ice Nemesis L-Series 280mm Radiator
> Alphacool Laing DDC- Pump 12V D DC-1T PWM
> Protium DD C Mod Kit - Polished Acrylic S ilver
> Protium - Small 100m m - Silver Polished
> Protium - Reser voir Mount : Core Sin gle
> EK-Tube ZM T Rubber 1 5.9/9.5mm (5/8" x 3/ 8") Tubing - Matte B lack
> (x6) Bitsp ower Premi um G1/4" B lack Spark le High Fl ow 3/8" (5 /8") Compr ession Fit ting
> 
> A lot of the parts are inspired by Singularity Computer's videos, as that's really the extent of what I know about watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As of right now, for all of this, I am looking at ~$400 for all this, which seems pretty overwhelming. Are there any suggestions that you all would make to better optimize this shopping list?
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


A whole loop for around 400$ means you are getting a great deal. Been a longggg time since I was able to piece a loop together for that cheap.

TCO


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A whole loop for around 400$ means you are getting a great deal. Been a longggg time since I was able to piece a loop together for that cheap.
> 
> TCO


That's fair. Granted, I don't have a price for the TR4 block yet. Also, I am only doing single rad, CPU only loop, so I feel that keeps down the price a lot


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Hey folks, hoping to pick your brains for a future watercooling loop I am planning for threadripper. I am new to the world of custom WC builds, so any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to build a custom loop for a threadripper CPU in a corsair air 740. I only want to cool the CPU for the time being, as I am constantly swapping out GPUs for various projects.
> I would like to use a 280mm rad, as I like the look of the bigger radiator in the top of the case (I've used a Kraken X60 and Corsair H100i).
> I would also like to use black soft-tubing, as I really like that aesthetic.
> I would like to mount the reservoir in in the rear of the case in order to keep it out of the way, and to keep the front chamber as open as possible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: A couple pics of the Air 740
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like the case has built-in reservoir mounts in the rear chamber (which I circled in the Spoiler above), which makes my life a lot easier.
> 
> So anyways, with all that information, these are the parts I have picked out so far:
> 
> XSPC Raystorm STR4 (When it eventually releases)
> Black Ice Nemesis L-Series 280mm Radiator
> Alphacool Laing DDC- Pump 12V D DC-1T PWM
> Protium DD C Mod Kit - Polished Acrylic S ilver
> Protium - Small 100m m - Silver Polished
> Protium - Reser voir Mount : Core Sin gle
> EK-Tube ZM T Rubber 1 5.9/9.5mm (5/8" x 3/ 8") Tubing - Matte B lack
> (x6) Bitsp ower Premi um G1/4" B lack Spark le High Fl ow 3/8" (5 /8") Compr ession Fit ting
> A lot of the parts are inspired by Singularity Computer's videos, as that's really the extent of what I know about watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As of right now, for all of this, I am looking at ~$400 for all this, which seems pretty overwhelming. Are there any suggestions that you all would make to better optimize this shopping list?
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Personally I would go for ddc combo unit to start with instead of buying the pump by itself, especially since it seems like this will be the first loop you assemble. The main reason for this is that you break the warranty seals on the pump before actually getting to test it in the loop, so you have to either set up a test loop without the protium kit first or cross your fingers that there isn't anything wrong with the pump. If the Singularity Protium kit is needed for the res/pump combo then at least make sure to select a pump from a manufacturer with good customer support (Meaning, not Alphacool or Aquacomputer as far as I can understand).

Also don't forget fans, though I guess whatever you had on your Kraken should work fine. I'm a bit out of the loop when it comes to 140mm fans, but I think some good choices would be Noctua A-14, Corsair ML 140, EKWB Vardar 140, Black Noise Noiseblocker Eloop 140, and Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 140mm.

Edit: also, you can more or less go with any brand of fitting so that's a place to save a bit of money if needed. Though BP is a go to brand for many for a reason.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm waiting to jump to TR4 once the 1900x is dropped since I'm not dropping $1k to only advance 4 extra pci lanes on the 7900x from my 5930k. Also ticked that EVGA's x99 Micro2 disables the 3rd PCIe when the m.2 is in use (turns out all x99 mATX boards do this) or else I'd just swap out for a 6900k and still use my current Supremacy EVO Acetal/Copper block


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Personally I would go for ddc combo unit to start with instead of buying the pump by itself, especially since it seems like this will be the first loop you assemble. The main reason for this is that you break the warranty seals on the pump before actually getting to test it in the loop, so you have to either set up a test loop without the protium kit first or cross your fingers that there isn't anything wrong with the pump. If the Singularity Protium kit is needed for the res/pump combo then at least make sure to select a pump from a manufacturer with good customer support (Meaning, not Alphacool or Aquacomputer as far as I can understand).
> 
> Also don't forget fans, though I guess whatever you had on your Kraken should work fine. I'm a bit out of the loop when it comes to 140mm fans, but I think some good choices would be Noctua A-14, Corsair ML 140, EKWB Vardar 140, Black Noise Noiseblocker Eloop 140, and Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 140mm.
> 
> Edit: also, you can more or less go with any brand of fitting so that's a place to save a bit of money if needed. Though BP is a go to brand for many for a reason.


Thanks for the tip! Do you have any suggestions for specific models of DDC combo units and reservoir? I really like the idea of the combined pump/reservoir in order to save space.
Or if I decide to go with the Protium solution, who would you recommend as brand for the DDC pump? I'd like to keep as many options available as possible.

In regards to the fans, yes I plan on using my Kraken's fans. I've got a pair of Noctua A-14s that I am currently using on my x60, that I will most likely reuse.









In regards to the fittings, I will look around, but yeah from what I have heard, BP has some of the best quality fittings. Expensive as hell though


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Thanks for the tip! Do you have any suggestions for specific models of DDC combo units and reservoir? I really like the idea of the combined pump/reservoir in order to save space.
> Or if I decide to go with the Protium solution, who would you recommend as brand for the DDC pump? I'd like to keep as many options available as possible.
> 
> In regards to the fans, yes I plan on using my Kraken's fans. I've got a pair of Noctua A-14s that I am currently using on my x60, that I will most likely reuse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In regards to the fittings, I will look around, but yeah from what I have heard, *BP has some of the best quality fittings. Expensive* as hell though


Might want to look at Barrow fittings for a hardline build.

Bitspower and expensive are always together in a sentence.

TCO


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Thanks for the tip! Do you have any suggestions for specific models of DDC combo units and reservoir? I really like the idea of the combined pump/reservoir in order to save space.
> Or if I decide to go with the Protium solution, who would you recommend as brand for the DDC pump? I'd like to keep as many options available as possible.
> 
> In regards to the fans, yes I plan on using my Kraken's fans. I've got a pair of Noctua A-14s that I am currently using on my x60, that I will most likely reuse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In regards to the fittings, I will look around, but yeah from what I have heard, BP has some of the best quality fittings. Expensive as hell though


The quality is mostly in the finish, more or less any fitting is functional. Though if you want as perfect of a finish as you can get then BP is a good choice, though you want to see if you also need some 45* or 90* fittings in addition to the straight ones you plan on getting as angled fittings can be a lifesaver in a tight space. As for combo units, EKWB sells some , but I don't really have that much knowledge on that aspect of it as I have only really heard that Alphacool and Aquacomputer has some issues with customer support.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Hey folks, hoping to pick your brains for a future watercooling loop I am planning for threadripper. I am new to the world of custom WC builds, so any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to build a custom loop for a threadripper CPU in a corsair air 740. I only want to cool the CPU for the time being, as I am constantly swapping out GPUs for various projects.
> I would like to use a 280mm rad, as I like the look of the bigger radiator in the top of the case (I've used a Kraken X60 and Corsair H100i).
> I would also like to use black soft-tubing, as I really like that aesthetic.
> I would like to mount the reservoir in in the rear of the case in order to keep it out of the way, and to keep the front chamber as open as possible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: A couple pics of the Air 740
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like the case has built-in reservoir mounts in the rear chamber (which I circled in the Spoiler above), which makes my life a lot easier.
> 
> So anyways, with all that information, these are the parts I have picked out so far:
> 
> XSPC Raystorm STR4 (When it eventually releases)
> Black Ice Nemesis L-Series 280mm Radiator
> Alphacool Laing DDC- Pump 12V D DC-1T PWM
> Protium DD C Mod Kit - Polished Acrylic S ilver
> Protium - Small 100m m - Silver Polished
> Protium - Reser voir Mount : Core Sin gle
> EK-Tube ZM T Rubber 1 5.9/9.5mm (5/8" x 3/ 8") Tubing - Matte B lack
> (x6) Bitsp ower Premi um G1/4" B lack Spark le High Fl ow 3/8" (5 /8") Compr ession Fit ting
> A lot of the parts are inspired by Singularity Computer's videos, as that's really the extent of what I know about watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As of right now, for all of this, I am looking at ~$400 for all this, which seems pretty overwhelming. Are there any suggestions that you all would make to better optimize this shopping list?
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


would the compression fittings not cause low level galvanic corrosion being they are nickle plated whilst the radiator and the water block are both copper ?

I know that any good fluid has anti corrosives in it but that can start to separate out if the rig is left switched off for a few days and become less effective, also I don't know how the rubber will work with respect to static charge build up in the liquid, so if there in contact with the fluid at all it might cause you some problems over the long term... I don't know enough about custom water cooling loops and how long folks build them for, but I know if I ever get round to making one then it'll be lucky to get serviced once a year /


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Of-course, just wanted to mention it. Using a pure biocide such as PTNuke works well if there is no mixed metals, but with the amount of steel introduced in modern loops (combined with nickel and brass as well as silver of-course) anti corrosion additives are still relatively important. Thus something like X1 is in my eyes a better recommendation than just a biocide.


X1 clear has done better & lasted longer than any other product i've tried.

it also smells like $5 a handle whiskey...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> would the compression fittings not cause low level galvanic corrosion being they are nickle plated whilst the radiator and the water block are both copper ?
> 
> I know that any good fluid has anti corrosives in it but that can start to separate out if the rig is left switched off for a few days and become less effective, also I don't know how the rubber will work with respect to static charge build up in the liquid, so if there in contact with the fluid at all it might cause you some problems over the long term... I don't know enough about custom water cooling loops and how long folks build them for, but I know if I ever get round to making one then it'll be lucky to get serviced once a year /


Depending on the parts that you choose and most importantly the liquid, you can safely run a loop without to much issues for about 2 years without changing the liquid. Though most fluids and parts make it so that a yearly maintenance cycle is recommended for most open loops.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> X1 clear has done better & lasted longer than any other product i've tried.
> 
> it also smells like $5 a handle whiskey...


(I got you) It also smells like a Handle of 5$ whiskey.

TCO


----------



## skupples

oh... it says do not consume, too late


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> oh... it says do not consume, too late


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Might want to look at Barrow fittings for a hardline build.
> 
> Bitspower and expensive are always together in a sentence.
> 
> TCO


Noted! I will be doing soft tubing, but I will definitely take a look at the Barrow offerings.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The quality is mostly in the finish, more or less any fitting is functional. Though if you want as perfect of a finish as you can get then BP is a good choice, though you want to see if you also need some 45* or 90* fittings in addition to the straight ones you plan on getting as angled fittings can be a lifesaver in a tight space. As for combo units, EKWB sells some , but I don't really have that much knowledge on that aspect of it as I have only really heard that Alphacool and Aquacomputer has some issues with customer support.


That's a good point. I will probably order a handful of extra fittings, and just return anything I end up not using.

Thanks for the tip. I guess I still have more research to do then








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> would the compression fittings not cause low level galvanic corrosion being they are nickle plated whilst the radiator and the water block are both copper ?
> 
> I know that any good fluid has anti corrosives in it but that can start to separate out if the rig is left switched off for a few days and become less effective, also I don't know how the rubber will work with respect to static charge build up in the liquid, so if there in contact with the fluid at all it might cause you some problems over the long term... I don't know enough about custom water cooling loops and how long folks build them for, but I know if I ever get round to making one then it'll be lucky to get serviced once a year /


As far as I can tell, copper and nickel corrosion is negligible at best. Though, it'd be worth looking into further in order to determine if there would be a real issue. Thanks for the input!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> As far as I can tell, copper and nickel corrosion is negligible at best. Though, it'd be worth looking into further in order to determine if there would be a real issue. Thanks for the input!


I'd still invest in a quality liquid with a proper anti corrosive additive (either in concentrate form or in pre-mixed), while there is a really low amount of corrosion going on it's still there. There are lots of good alternatives for fluid like mayhems X1, XT-1 and XT-1 Nuke, and I know EKWB, Nanoxia and Primochill has some good ones as well just to mention them.


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'd still invest in a quality liquid with a proper anti corrosive additive (either in concentrate form or in pre-mixed), while there is a really low amount of corrosion going on it's still there. There are lots of good alternatives for fluid like mayhems X1, XT-1 and XT-1 Nuke, and I know EKWB, Nanoxia and Primochill has some good ones as well just to mention them.


Sounds good to me! Thanks for the tips everyone!


----------



## VSG

Man, the more I deal with BYKSKI the more impressed I get.







That's two separate thick anodized aluminum covers on a plexi top on the BYKSKI full cover block for the Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix PCB. EK still has the edge when it comes to getting products out and with better compatibility though. There's also the part where EK has a global market now vs BYKSKI in Asia only for now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Sounds good to me! Thanks for the tips everyone!


There isn't anything wrong with running distilled with PT Nuke.

Actually @wermad used to run straight distilled (And so do I in a couple of my rigs) with no additives and there aren't any problems.

TCO


----------



## MURDoctrine

Yeah what TCO said. I've been running distilled water with and without additives for years and never had any issues with it.


----------



## skupples

EK has done some crazy stuff with their water channels recently too it seems.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> There isn't anything wrong with running distilled with PT Nuke.
> 
> Actually @wermad used to run straight distilled (And so do I in a couple of my rigs) with no additives and there aren't any problems.
> 
> TCO


Fair enough, but that doesn't mean that everyone is going to have the same result. Running pure distilled also requires a more frequent maintenance, though there is nothing wrong with that as long as the loop is laid out to be easy to do it with. Still, I ran ptnuke for about a year now (changed out liquid after about 6 months) and I did have corrosion in my loop, so I want to be one the safe side when recommending stuff.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Fair enough, but that doesn't mean that everyone is going to have the same result. Running pure distilled also requires a more frequent maintenance, though there is nothing wrong with that as long as the loop is laid out to be easy to do it with. Still, I ran ptnuke for about a year now (changed out liquid after about 6 months) and I did have corrosion in my loop, *so I want to be on the safe side when recommending stuff*.


I understand.

4 people in this forum could have the same loop, but all of them have different results.

The fact is that no one has to buy a premix solution to use as the liquid of a loop.

To each their own.

TCO


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> here's my completed parvum r1.0 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lever


Wow. Do you have a build log?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fediuld*
> 
> Wow. Do you have a build log?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1623009/build-log-parvum-r1-0-matx-i7-7700k-evga-1080-sc-sli-borosilicate-tubing-custom-cooling-loop/0_20

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Personally I would go for ddc combo unit to start with instead of buying the pump by itself, especially since it seems like this will be the first loop you assemble. The main reason for this is that you break the warranty seals on the pump before actually getting to test it in the loop, so you have to either set up a test loop without the protium kit first or cross your fingers that there isn't anything wrong with the pump. If the Singularity Protium kit is needed for the res/pump combo then at least make sure to select a pump from a manufacturer with good customer support (Meaning, not Alphacool or Aquacomputer as far as I can understand).
> 
> Also don't forget fans, though I guess whatever you had on your Kraken should work fine. I'm a bit out of the loop when it comes to 140mm fans, but I think some good choices would be Noctua A-14, Corsair ML 140, EKWB Vardar 140, Black Noise Noiseblocker Eloop 140, and Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 140mm.
> 
> Edit: also, you can more or less go with any brand of fitting so that's a place to save a bit of money if needed. Though BP is a go to brand for many for a reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip! Do you have any suggestions for specific models of DDC combo units and reservoir? I really like the idea of the combined pump/reservoir in order to save space.
> Or if I decide to go with the Protium solution, who would you recommend as brand for the DDC pump? I'd like to keep as many options available as possible.
> 
> In regards to the fans, yes I plan on using my Kraken's fans. I've got a pair of Noctua A-14s that I am currently using on my x60, that I will most likely reuse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In regards to the fittings, I will look around, but yeah from what I have heard, BP has some of the best quality fittings. Expensive as hell though
Click to expand...

personally for soft tubing i LOVE xspc. esp their angled fittings

i love ek res combos


----------



## KCDC

Big Bertha as she stands currently. A rebuild is in the near future, rerouting some of the cabling and LEDs, res/pump combo pump top to clean that mess up, some of the tubing will get rerouted as well. Removing the water filters as I think they're doing nothing but inhibit waterflow, cleaning out the blocks as well as I feel that my temps are a bit high even though its still pretty warm here. Haven't had a free weekend to do it yet. Been a fun ride being my first dive into the fun, expensive and meticulous world that is watercooling. This forum has saved me from what would probably have been catastrophic failures. Thanks to y'all and the information I gathered from this thread, I haven't had any major screw-ups.


----------



## LastRages

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Big Bertha as she stands currently. A rebuild is in the near future, rerouting some of the cabling and LEDs, res/pump combo pump top to clean that mess up, some of the tubing will get rerouted as well. Removing the water filters as I think they're doing nothing but inhibit waterflow, cleaning out the blocks as well as I feel that my temps are a bit high even though its still pretty warm here. Haven't had a free weekend to do it yet. Been a fun ride being my first dive into the fun, expensive and meticulous world that is watercooling. This forum has saved me from what would probably have been catastrophic failures. Thanks to y'all and the information I gathered from this thread, I haven't had any major screw-ups.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Going to give hard tubing a try or stick with the soft stuff?


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Big Bertha as she stands currently. A rebuild is in the near future, rerouting some of the cabling and LEDs, res/pump combo pump top to clean that mess up, some of the tubing will get rerouted as well. Removing the water filters as I think they're doing nothing but inhibit waterflow, cleaning out the blocks as well as I feel that my temps are a bit high even though its still pretty warm here. Haven't had a free weekend to do it yet. Been a fun ride being my first dive into the fun, expensive and meticulous world that is watercooling. This forum has saved me from what would probably have been catastrophic failures. Thanks to y'all and the information I gathered from this thread, I haven't had any major screw-ups.


Very nice build!


----------



## nycgtr

Gutted enthoo primo.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Gutted enthoo primo.


I still have quite a ways to go before mine looks anything close to that, it's currently de-riveted and waiting for some coats of paint. Great looking build there


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I still have quite a ways to go before mine looks anything close to that, it's currently de-riveted and waiting for some coats of paint. Great looking build there


Thanks. I still need to finish the door lol. I might just buy the mnpctech and call it. Are you adding a rad to the front?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Thanks. I still need to finish the door lol. I might just buy the mnpctech and call it. Are you adding a rad to the front?


Nah, I'm sticking with my pair of 480mm monsta rads. It's more cooling than I will need in the foreseeable future so I don't see a point in changing it out yet. But who knows, I already have the needed radiators in storage if I choose to go that route. For now though the plan is to fill the empty space where the drive cage used to be with a massive reservoir.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Gutted enthoo primo.


Nice do you have any more pic's? Your is significantly cleaner than mine is.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Nice do you have any more pic's? Your is significantly cleaner than mine is.


Still in progress in terms of the door. Can't find my sleeving so I had to get more before I can sleeve the two pumps. I also need to touch up some areas. The front cover right now is temp.


----------



## spyshagg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> here's my completed parvum r1.0 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lever


daaaaaaaaaamn


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LastRages*
> 
> Going to give hard tubing a try or stick with the soft stuff?


Sticking to soft until I finish other projects, my plan is to go with glass everywhere I can. Possibly by next spring or as early as the winter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> Very nice build!


Thanks!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

3.5 years of nearly continuous running a 50 / 50 mix of non antifreeze automotive coolant plus water and the inside of my blocks are squeaky clean


----------



## sli_shroom

only way to be sure would be to pull the block apart. gotta check in the fins to be sure


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 3.5 years of nearly continuous running a 75 / 25 mix of non antifreeze automotive coolant plus water and the inside of my blocks are squeaky clean


Which Auto coolant did you use?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> only way to be sure would be to pull the block apart. gotta check in the fins to be sure


I know I don't need to m8 . Infact my entire system is like that on the inside rads as well . But they don't go over 42c full load anyways . Chiller off . Chiller on 30c full load .

Not pulling block apart cause you think I need to be certain









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Which Auto coolant did you use?


Well its say antifreeze / boil / corrosion on the label









But that isn't a issue .

Its a 'Strayan brand called Nulon its a 1060g/l Ethylene glycol with 10mg/kg denatonium benzonate









I run it on my cpu chiller loop as well . Same results . squeaky clean


----------



## BoredErica




----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> But that isn't a issue .
> 
> Its a 'Strayan brand called Nulon its a 1060g/l Ethylene glycol with 10mg/kg denatonium benzonate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I run it on my cpu chiller loop as well . Same results . squeaky clean


So any of these stand out...?

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/Cooling_Systems

Or is it something different? Because that sounds interesting.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far I think the Dominators look good with a black light bar kit


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> So any of these stand out...?
> 
> https://www.nulon.com.au/products/Cooling_Systems
> 
> Or is it something different? Because that sounds interesting.


Its this one or anything the same spec .

Why pay through the nose for EK lolly water ??

Think outside the square












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So far I think the Dominators look good with a black light bar kit


I wish I could find x4 those in 4GB DDR3 CL 11


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its this one or anything the same spec .
> 
> Why pay through the nose for EK lolly water ??
> 
> Think outside the square
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I could find x4 those in 4GB DDR3 CL 11


Why don't you just paint the bars?

TCO


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why don't you just paint the bars?
> 
> TCO


I don't care about those sticks cause DDR4 . I want DDR3 same speed CL11's


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I don't care about those sticks cause DDR4 . I want DDR3 same speed CL11's


Oh. I thought you were talking about the Light bars.

They still have Dom plats on Amazon in CL11

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dominator-Platinum-2400MHz-Memory/dp/B00J128GQS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504102218&sr=8-2&keywords=ddr3+corsair+dominator+platinum

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have no use for DDR3 anymore


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Lol,a tiny bit of port surface and 'Its fine,perfect internally and dont dare question it'......

Except you dont have a plated block that would show any corrosion beyond surface discoloration, no flaking nor pitting.
Not sure what you are trying to prove tbh....


----------



## BaZoe

Hello,
This is my build, finished few months ago









 

 

 



Galery from the beginning









https://goo.gl/photos/dTMv8v3Na1x7fCQs5


----------



## mouacyk




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaZoe*
> 
> Hello,
> This is my build, finished few months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Galery from the beginning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://goo.gl/photos/dTMv8v3Na1x7fCQs5


So I see the pastel is ok









TCO


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaZoe*
> 
> This is my build, finished few months ago


Wow. It's bright and colo(u)rfull. I almost have an urge to listen to some Pink Floyd now.

Seriously, it's a nice build even if my own personal preferences are more conservative in regards to colo(u)rs. (I tend to limit myself to only 20 or so colo(u)rs at a time.)

Take care
Gary

Edit: Just looking at this, it occurred to me that you severely limited yourself by using clear tubing. If you'd gone with clear or white fluid, you could have easily gotten away with using a different colored tube for each segment.


----------



## BaZoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So I see the pastel is ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Yes, i think it's gonna be ok, the dark water is beginning to disappear.
Thank you very much for your advice!


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaZoe*
> 
> Hello,
> This is my build, finished few months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Galery from the beginning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://goo.gl/photos/dTMv8v3Na1x7fCQs5


that is one sweet looking machine


----------



## BaZoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Wow. It's bright and colo(u)rfull. I almost have an urge to listen to some Pink Floyd now.
> 
> Seriously, it's a nice build even if my own personal preferences are more conservative in regards to colo(u)rs. (I tend to limit myself to only 20 or so colo(u)rs at a time.)
> 
> Take care
> Gary
> 
> Edit: Just looking at this, it occurred to me that you severely limited yourself by using clear tubing. If you'd gone with clear or white fluid, you could have easily gotten away with using a different colored tube for each segment.


the LEDs are all software controlled, so there's no problem in changing color to suit my mood, hehe.
I'm thinking about changing to UV fluid in 2 or 3 months, i still don't know what color yet, i'm considering about green


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaZoe*
> 
> Hello,
> This is my build, finished few months ago


Ahhh ... errr ... ummm ... not sure what to say re this. Trying to look through the colors ... the case actually looks pretty good. Nice work.

My other thought was ... is this really everyone's future with the RGB mega-push.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BaZoe*
> 
> This is my build, finished few months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow. It's bright and colo(u)rfull. I almost have an urge to listen to some Pink Floyd now.
> 
> Seriously, it's a nice build even if my own personal preferences are more conservative in regards to colo(u)rs. (I tend to limit myself to only 20 or so colo(u)rs at a time.)
> 
> Take care
> Gary
Click to expand...

Excellent comments :lol:


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BaZoe*
> 
> This is my build, finished few months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow. It's bright and colo(u)rfull. I almost have an urge to listen to some *Pink Floyd* now.
> 
> Seriously, it's a nice build even if my own personal preferences are more conservative in regards to colo(u)rs. (I tend to limit myself to only 20 or so colo(u)rs at a time.)
> 
> Take care
> Gary
> 
> Edit: Just looking at this, it occurred to me that you severely limited yourself by using clear tubing. If you'd gone with clear or white fluid, you could have easily gotten away with using a different colored tube for each segment.
Click to expand...

Yeah, Pink Floyd, it also reminded me of this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWVzfXzyEZM









RGB overdose notwithstanding, it is one beautiful build.


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaZoe*
> 
> Hello,
> This is my build, finished few months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Galery from the beginning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://goo.gl/photos/dTMv8v3Na1x7fCQs5


Oh dear! That is truly RGB overkill!
I completely refused to go with RGB after trying and figuring out that you simply can't get a real white lighting with such led strips.

With that said... anyone interested in an Aquacomputer Farbwerk (bluetooth variant) with 4 rgb led strips (30cm, IP67)? Used only for about 10 minutes.









doc


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol,a tiny bit of port surface and 'Its fine,perfect internally and *dont dare question it'......*
> 
> Except you dont have a plated block that would show any corrosion beyond surface discoloration, no flaking nor pitting.
> Not sure what you are trying to prove tbh....


I didnt mean to come across like that









I took some pics and posted em here .

You don't always need to run to over priced EK coolant ect .





A few times now Ive posted here your the one with the return snarkiness .


----------



## nanotm

does the insulation sleeving make much difference to the temps your getting ?

and that kit must be hella loud all out in the open like that


----------



## DarthBaggins

The insulation prevents moisture build up on the exterior of the tubes


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> does the insulation sleeving make much difference to the temps your getting ?
> 
> and that kit must be hella loud all out in the open like that


No , not really that loud when its just the cpu chiller

But when I run the A/C and the 1hp gpu chiller as well Its a tad but more than bearable .









Strayan summers are quite humid and cause the cpu chiller is direct to block its runs for shorter periods cause the return coolant temp is 2c moar than intake .

I only have the intake on the gpu chiller insulated for stated reason cause I don't run it very often plus its really overkill ( Mainly for benchmarking ) . But its got a 4 ltr res and that alone is worth it









And I only run the gpu chiller in summer if req . Cause the A/C keeps the gpu rads coolant very cool ( 18c or less ) so I save on electrics .

Ive got a massive solar panel array on my roof as well and that has cut my grid usage up to 50%











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> The insulation prevents moisture build up on the exterior of the tubes


This is very true m8 .


----------



## bluedevil

Oh man look what just showed up....wow


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Oh man look what just showed up....wow












Is that a Peltier w/block ?!

I ask this cause of wire poking out


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's for the lighting with the block


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's for the lighting with the block


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> No , not really that loud when its just the cpu chiller
> 
> But when I run the A/C and the 1hp gpu chiller as well Its a tad but more than bearable .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strayan summers are quite humid and cause the cpu chiller is direct to block its runs for shorter periods cause the return coolant temp is 2c moar than intake .
> 
> I only have the intake on the gpu chiller insulated for stated reason cause I don't run it very often plus its really overkill ( Mainly for benchmarking ) . But its got a 4 ltr res and that alone is worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I only run the gpu chiller in summer if req . Cause the A/C keeps the gpu rads coolant very cool ( 18c or less ) so I save on electrics .
> 
> Ive got a massive solar panel array on my roof as well and that has cut my grid usage up to 50%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is very true m8 .


That deskputer only got more convoluted in the 4 + yrs lol. I remember back when you only had like 3x 480mm rads.

What was the dilution factor you used with the Nulon stuff? I might give it a go since I don't fully trust the EK Cryofuel.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> *That deskputer only got more convoluted in the 4 + yrs lol. I remember back when you only had like 3x 480mm rads.*
> 
> What was the dilution factor you used with the Nulon stuff? I might give it a go since I don't fully trust the EK Cryofuel.


50 / 50 or 75 / 25 . You choose


----------



## NBrock




----------



## garyd9

An odd question (perhaps): I know I can get colored water dyes that are transparent or opaque. I can get UV reactive dyes. I can leave it clear. However, is there any kind of dye that gives the effect of cloudy (but still mostly transparent) water?

I recently installed a CCFL tube into my res, and I really like how it looks when I'm first trying to get the air out of the loop... the water itself is kind of cloudy (which is really just the air mixed in) and that diffuses the CCFL light really nicely. Once the air bubbles settle out, the water goes back to being transparent and it looks kind of boring.

(I could also just buy a frosted res tube for the same impact, but then I wouldn't be able to see the water level easily.)


----------



## SauronTheGreat

guys i have a serious question apparently i recently ordered an EK X3 250 res , it cam with a vortex foam, i am confused what to do with it, should i cut in half so it can be placed at both of the sides at the bottom ? because using it in full will not allow the EK sign to be placed ...


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sure, will send a PM. Since I am basically stuck at home thanks to Harvey, I got some flow restriction tests done and this is even more restrictive than the already restrictive Apogee XL. The microfins look extremely thin so I wasn't completely surprised, but now the thermal performance has to back it up.


Any updates on the review?

Should I pull the trigger on one of these for tr4? I've got a limited window in which to order.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Any updates on the review?
> 
> Should I pull the trigger on one of these for tr4? I've got a limited window in which to order.


I had an issue with a mounting bracket, and replacement ones are stuck outside Houston because of the flood here. It will be at least next week when thermal testing is done so I can't really tell you to buy or not at this point. Coolant flow restriction is quite high though


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> guys i have a serious question apparently i recently ordered an EK X3 250 res , it cam with a vortex foam, i am confused what to do with it, should i cut in half so it can be placed at both of the sides at the bottom ? because using it in full will not allow the EK sign to be placed ...


I wouldn't add that anti vortex foam. A number of people reported that it sometimes reacts with the coolants used and disintegrates in the system.

I only use the EK logo anti vortex thing in my X4 250 reservoir with the long tube and I don't have any noise or vortex forming inside.


----------



## nycgtr

Don't use the foam. Also, I can vouch for it disintegrating


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> guys i have a serious question apparently i recently ordered an EK X3 250 res , it cam with a vortex foam, i am confused what to do with it, should i cut in half so it can be placed at both of the sides at the bottom ? because using it in full will not allow the EK sign to be placed ...


do not use the foam just the sign that's in the reservoir. It works as an anti vortex. The foam will. Real down over time and get in he loop


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I had an issue with a mounting bracket, and replacement ones are stuck outside Houston because of the flood here. It will be at least next week when thermal testing is done so I can't really tell you to buy or not at this point. Coolant flow restriction is quite high though


Only 10 days left to order.... Hmmm.

I may just order blindly. Swiftech provides a curve for pressure drop and they show temps for the new block vs the old. All of those fins have to do something right









I should have enough pump to drive through any restrictions I may encounter. A PWM d5 coupled with an mcp50x.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ive got an Aquaero 6 Freebie giveaway in celebration of the Near Completion of the S3 With Pedestal. Feel free to join and make sure you read the OP.












TCO


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ... and replacement ones are stuck outside Houston because of the flood here


Somewhat off topic, but I hope everything is going well for you and your family. I grew up in South Florida (cat 5 Andrew) and my wife is from New Orleans (cat 5 Katrina), so we well know about hurricanes and some of the messes afterwards.

Take care
Gary


----------



## iBerggman

What's your opinion on aftermarket vs founders edition 1080 Ti for watercooling, is there a specific model I should consider or is it better to go with the cheapest reference/founders edition I can find? I suppose something like a strix might be easier to sell without the block when I upgrade but that's not going to be anytime soon so I don't really care about that.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Somewhat off topic, but I hope everything is going well for you and your family. I grew up in South Florida (cat 5 Andrew) and my wife is from New Orleans (cat 5 Katrina), so we well know about hurricanes and some of the messes afterwards.
> 
> Take care
> Gary


All good here, thanks a lot


----------



## GreedyMuffin

My foam was disvolving after some months of usage.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> What's your opinion on aftermarket vs founders edition 1080 Ti for watercooling, is there a specific model I should consider or is it better to go with the cheapest reference/founders edition I can find? I suppose something like a strix might be easier to sell without the block when I upgrade but that's not going to be anytime soon so I don't really care about that.


If you're watercooling your PC it doesn't really matter which cooler version you get. The FE's are usually better for OC'ing aswell and don't come with DVI-port either. So good for using a single slot bracket instead.

I recently bought a Vega 64 stock cooler version with the plan on adding it to my loop, so I didn't care what the cooler looked like.

If an FE is cheaper get an FE, imho.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> What's your opinion on aftermarket vs founders edition 1080 Ti for watercooling, is there a specific model I should consider or is it better to go with the cheapest reference/founders edition I can find? I suppose something like a strix might be easier to sell without the block when I upgrade but that's not going to be anytime soon so I don't really care about that.


Either get a FE, or get an aftermarket that uses the same card layout as the FE. This is only to ensure GPU block compatibility. The cards that have non-reference card layouts might have a limited (or non-existent) choice of water blocks.


----------



## b0z0

Here are a few better pictures of my finished build I took with my phone.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> What's your opinion on aftermarket vs founders edition 1080 Ti for watercooling, is there a specific model I should consider or is it better to go with the cheapest reference/founders edition I can find? I suppose something like a strix might be easier to sell without the block when I upgrade but that's not going to be anytime soon so I don't really care about that.


If you can find a fe that isn't price gouged then it's a fine option.

Your other option is to buy an aftermarket card with a block pre installed. This will also net you a higher power target than 120 percent (which can be bypassed by flashing an XOC bios on a founders card).

It's hard to find fe cards and cards with FE layouts now though. Really hard.

Edited to add. Stay away from the Asus turbo. It's not a FE card.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnJ3OYTDj

https://imageshack.com/i/pm0bZgoJj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnhUmYm3j

My Define C TG at the minute.


----------



## iBerggman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> If you're watercooling your PC it doesn't really matter which cooler version you get. The FE's are usually better for OC'ing aswell and don't come with DVI-port either. So good for using a single slot bracket instead.
> 
> I recently bought a Vega 64 stock cooler version with the plan on adding it to my loop, so I didn't care what the cooler looked like.
> 
> If an FE is cheaper get an FE, imho.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Either get a FE, or get an aftermarket that uses the same card layout as the FE. This is only to ensure GPU block compatibility. The cards that have non-reference card layouts might have a limited (or non-existent) choice of water blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> If you can find a fe that isn't price gouged then it's a fine option.
> 
> Your other option is to buy an aftermarket card with a block pre installed. This will also net you a higher power target than 120 percent (which can be bypassed by flashing an XOC bios on a founders card).
> 
> It's hard to find fe cards and cards with FE layouts now though. Really hard.
> 
> Edited to add. Stay away from the Asus turbo. It's not a FE card.


FE pcb it is! I've seen the MSI Aero for around or under 700€ so that looks like a good option, seems to be fe layout as well according to the heatkiller iv compability chart. I'm not really in a hurry though so I'll keep looking, a (used) 1080 would actually be enough for me coming from a 780 Ti so I might go for that if I find one for a good price.

Preinstalled waterblock is pretty much out of the question as you can't really find any for under 1000€









Thanks for the help!


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> FE pcb it is! I've seen the MSI Aero for around or under 700€ so that looks like a good option, seems to be fe layout as well according to the heatkiller iv compability chart. I'm not really in a hurry though so I'll keep looking, a (used) 1080 would actually be enough for me coming from a 780 Ti so I might go for that if I find one for a good price.
> 
> Preinstalled waterblock is pretty much out of the question as you can't really find any for under 1000€
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Oh, in Euros.

Stateside you can get the beefy Gigabyte Aorus for 850, or Zotac's arcticstorm for 820 (although the zotac has a thermal take block). The price is like buying a 720 dollar card and installing a 120-130 dollar water block on it. Pretty attractive option.

That said I went FE. I snagged an open box (or two he he).

As for the Aero, it's a FE card. Port layout and even the slot cover are identical. MSI has stated they won't necessarily deny a warranty claim if you remove the warranty void sticker to slap on an aftermarket cooler (at least in the US and probably Europe). Who needs a warranty any way.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its this one or anything the same spec .
> 
> Why pay through the nose for EK lolly water ??
> 
> Think outside the square


Thanks!

After reading this http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii, I have better view of why you may want to use Ethylene glycol. You're using a chiller... but I love my pets and don't use a chiller. That write-up also answered a viscosity question I had regarding potential flow rate, which is important for many of us that measure such things.









But, I got really interested in the new Purple Ice (https://youtu.be/tAWWqBh36_0). Gave me some ideas of experimentation as the guy in the video talks about proper fluid to water ratios. Might still play with it for fun... Otherwise, I can't find a reason to use it in a PC water-cooling system.

However, I think this conversation started due to the OP's need or interest in keeping a system corrosion free and "clean". Seems like the below guide may result in the best result findings to start with.

Here's the TLDR from the article linked above;

*Basic Coolant Mixtures*

OK, we have talked a lot about some of the various coolant additives than can be used in a PC water-cooling system. Not all systems are alike, so what works best for one person may not be the best solution for someone else. Here are five examples of some popular coolant mixtures.

*1. Distilled water (100% - no additives)*

*Strengths:*

Excellent thermal properties

_*Weaknesses:*_

No corrosion inhibition
Various microorganisms may flourish

*2. Distilled water and super coolant additive of your choice**

*Strengths:*

Good/Excellent thermal properties
Good corrosion resistance (depending on the effectiveness of additive)

*Weaknesses:*

May not provide any protection against microorganism growth

*3. Distilled water, super coolant*, and biocide of your choice*

*Strengths:*

Good/Excellent thermal properties
Good corrosion resistance (depending on the effectiveness of additive)
Good protection against microorganism growth (depending on the additive)

*Weaknesses:*

Added complexity and cost

*4. Distilled water, 15% automotive antifreeze, super coolant*, and biocide of your choice*

*Strengths:*

Fair/Good thermal properties
Good corrosion resistance (depending on the effectiveness of additive)
Good protection against microorganism growth (depending on the additive)
Sense of security - some people just feel better using this mix

*Weaknesses:*

Added complexity and cost
Higher viscosity - potentially lower flow rate
Toxic to pets and humans

*5. Distilled water, 30% Methanol, super coolant of your choice**

*Strengths:*

Good thermal properties
Good corrosion resistance (depending on the effectiveness of additive)
Good protection against microorganism growth
Offers freeze protection down to -30ºC

*Weaknesses:*

Added complexity and cost
Toxic to pets and humans
Flammable

* (Valvoline Racing Super Coolant, Water-Wetter, Hy-Per Lube Super Coolant, Purple Ice, Swiftech HydrX, InnovaProtect, Silkolene Pro CCA, etc.)

_Note: The excellent thermal properties of pure water may be decreased slightly by adding a small amount of super coolant or other additives but may be increased a tiny bit if the surface tension is reduced._


----------



## nanotm

would it be fair to say then that if your system is purely copper and plastic your better off with pure water and some UV light(s) to act as biocide ?

I mean if its got the best thermal properties and copper doesn't really corrode in DI water it would just make more sense not to add any of the gunk that lowers thermal properties and microorganisms die under uv light exposure (which is why filters for fish tanks and ornamental ponds contain nothing more than a uv light bulb)

although to be fair if I was building a custom loop I would defo be getting me some light reactive colours because it would just look better


----------



## Yukss

Mine.. 6 months and the sunset yellow still looks good


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> would it be fair to say then that if your system is purely copper and plastic your better off with pure water and some UV light(s) to act as biocide ?
> 
> I mean if its got the best thermal properties and copper doesn't really corrode in DI water it would just make more sense not to add any of the gunk that lowers thermal properties and microorganisms die under uv light exposure (which is why filters for fish tanks and ornamental ponds contain nothing more than a uv light bulb)
> 
> although to be fair if I was building a custom loop I would defo be getting me some light reactive colours because it would just look better


I think the copper would still oxidise due to air and evaporation, also I've never seen UV used as a filter for anything, probably because the amount required to actually kill micro-organisms would also be enough to destroy plastic and paint and also increase your power bill a fair bit...

Also I've found UV LEDs have a super short life span due to their excessive power requirements, however the current RGB strips I have actually emit enough UV on the blue side to make my tubes glow, but without overheating...


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> I think the copper would still oxidise due to air and evaporation, also I've never seen UV used as a filter for anything, probably because the amount required to actually kill micro-organisms would also be enough to destroy plastic and paint and also increase your power bill a fair bit...
> 
> Also I've found UV LEDs have a super short life span due to their excessive power requirements, however the current RGB strips I have actually emit enough UV on the blue side to make my tubes glow, but without overheating...


well sure the flow rate of the water determines the power of the uv lamp required, 720ltr/hr flow rate and you can use a 5w uv lamp to sterilise the water a slower flow rate will need a higher wattage lamp as far as i'm aware those type of lamps can be 12v dc powered and an led array will do the job as good as a more traditional cold cathode... as to the life span I guess it depends what there actually designed for, most leds in pc's are over powered in order to generate the brighter light which in turn makes the m heat up more and burn out .... better power control or heat transfer would likely increase the longevity ...

copper will oxidise in air yes, but the inside of the cooling loop shouldn't have any air in it, if its a closed loop then evaporations should be limited to whatever leeches through the tubing so there should be zero corrosion taking place during normal use .....

at least that's how I understand all this stuff, which isn't to say its correct mind hence the questions /


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> After reading this http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii, I have better view of why you may want to use Ethylene glycol. You're using a chiller... but I love my pets and don't use a chiller. That write-up also answered a viscosity question I had regarding potential flow rate, which is important for many of us that measure such things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I got really interested in the new Purple Ice (https://youtu.be/tAWWqBh36_0). Gave me some ideas of experimentation as the guy in the video talks about proper fluid to water ratios. Might still play with it for fun... Otherwise, I can't find a reason to use it in a PC water-cooling system.
> 
> However, I think this conversation started due to the OP's need or interest in keeping a system corrosion free and "clean". Seems like the below guide may result in the best result findings to start with.
> 
> Here's the TLDR from the article linked above;
> 
> *Basic Coolant Mixtures*
> 
> OK, we have talked a lot about some of the various coolant additives than can be used in a PC water-cooling system. Not all systems are alike, so what works best for one person may not be the best solution for someone else. Here are five examples of some popular coolant mixtures.
> 
> *1. Distilled water (100% - no additives)*
> 
> *Strengths:*
> 
> Excellent thermal properties
> 
> _*Weaknesses:*_
> 
> No corrosion inhibition
> Various microorganisms may flourish
> 
> *2. Distilled water and super coolant additive of your choice**
> 
> *Strengths:*
> 
> Good/Excellent thermal properties
> Good corrosion resistance (depending on the effectiveness of additive)
> 
> *Weaknesses:*
> 
> May not provide any protection against microorganism growth
> 
> *3. Distilled water, super coolant*, and biocide of your choice*
> 
> *Strengths:*
> 
> Good/Excellent thermal properties
> Good corrosion resistance (depending on the effectiveness of additive)
> Good protection against microorganism growth (depending on the additive)
> 
> *Weaknesses:*
> 
> Added complexity and cost
> 
> *4. Distilled water, 15% automotive antifreeze, super coolant*, and biocide of your choice*
> 
> *Strengths:*
> 
> Fair/Good thermal properties
> Good corrosion resistance (depending on the effectiveness of additive)
> Good protection against microorganism growth (depending on the additive)
> Sense of security - some people just feel better using this mix
> 
> *Weaknesses:*
> 
> Added complexity and cost
> Higher viscosity - potentially lower flow rate
> Toxic to pets and humans
> 
> *5. Distilled water, 30% Methanol, super coolant of your choice**
> 
> *Strengths:*
> 
> Good thermal properties
> Good corrosion resistance (depending on the effectiveness of additive)
> Good protection against microorganism growth
> Offers freeze protection down to -30ºC
> 
> *Weaknesses:*
> 
> Added complexity and cost
> Toxic to pets and humans
> Flammable
> 
> * (Valvoline Racing Super Coolant, Water-Wetter, Hy-Per Lube Super Coolant, Purple Ice, Swiftech HydrX, InnovaProtect, Silkolene Pro CCA, etc.)
> 
> _Note: The excellent thermal properties of pure water may be decreased slightly by adding a small amount of super coolant or other additives but may be increased a tiny bit if the surface tension is reduced._


Researched and presented like a pro









+REP for u










I have a habit of only seeing / saying what works for me , that said my setup is not mainstream one little bit









Edit

Also I can recycle my coolant ( if I ever need to ) I WOULD NEVER dispose of it unthoughtfully . But if I had to I could take ( Coolant ) it to the mechanics and they could recycle it for me .

It hasn't been in a cars cooling system so the heavy metals from being heated and cooled squillions of times just aren't there .


----------



## Ashcroft

I believe it's true to say that anti corrosives also have a biocidal effect, but not the reverse.

Mixing multiple additives can cause problems rather than prevent them.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> would it be fair to say then that if your system is purely copper and plastic your better off with pure water and some UV light(s) to act as biocide ?


I'd say no, especially on the uv light because one that's powerful enough to actually kill things will cause some serious problems for eyes and/or skin that gets exposed to it. Additionally, using a uv light to sterilize requires very specific flow rates. Biocides also don't decay anywhere near as fast as a uv bulb that's running 24/7 does.


----------



## Paul17041993

What kind of overclocking would actually be needed to see significant performance differences in coolant anyway? I think I'd rather improve the loop in some way than to maby sacrifice the amount of biocide and inhibitors in the coolant...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I'd say no, especially on the uv light because one that's powerful enough to actually kill things will cause some serious problems for eyes and/or skin that gets exposed to it. Additionally, using a uv light to sterilize requires very specific flow rates. Biocides also don't decay anywhere near as fast as a uv bulb that's running 24/7 does.


Oh yea forgot to mention that too, you'd want the UV light in a closed, concentrated area (like a strip wrapped around clear tubing, with tape around that) that wont be seen much. Even the low power blue light from my RGB strips emit enough UV to irritate my eyes when the side panel's off...


----------



## emsj86

No fluid on the market is going to gain or scarfoce temps that are noticeable.


----------



## nanotm

I did think it would need to be a closed filter unit to be honest I was more sort of spit balling the idea than saying "this is the way", the specifics of what and how weren't something I worked out...

I remember doing a uv light setup some years back for a water supply system for a
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> What kind of overclocking would actually be needed to see significant performance differences in coolant anyway? I think I'd rather improve the loop in some way than to maby sacrifice the amount of biocide and inhibitors in the coolant...
> Oh yea forgot to mention that too, you'd want the UV light in a closed, concentrated area (like a strip wrapped around clear tubing, with tape around that) that wont be seen much. Even the low power blue light from my RGB strips emit enough UV to irritate my eyes when the side panel's off...


I was thinking more of one of those inline aquatic uv filter units myself but sure I guess you could do it bargain basement method although it sounds like a bad use of a led strip and a good way to damage a loop

something more like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pond-Filter-UV-Steriliser-Light-and-Fountain-Pump-APS-All-In-One-System-/400562335629?var=&hash=item5d43602f8d:m:mu_2lys_aQzend5A-nDrbFw which has the added bonus of also being the pump for the cooling loop, maybe not this specific item since its only 1000L/hr but a lot of other units around that do the 1500l/hr (which is apparently the maximum flow rate for most clc pumps) then again probably better to not use the integrated pump filter units because you would only need to run the uv system for an hour every other day for the sterilisation effect what with the clc only being 1ltr of water rather than the 400+ that these things are designed for lol

i might try it out in the future but then again the wife will probably not let me go the custom loop route before the kids leave home in another couple of years .....


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> I did think it would need to be a closed filter unit to be honest I was more sort of spit balling the idea than saying "this is the way", the specifics of what and how weren't something I worked out...
> 
> I remember doing a uv light setup some years back for a water supply system for a
> I was thinking more of one of those inline aquatic uv filter units myself but sure I guess you could do it bargain basement method although it sounds like a bad use of a led strip and a good way to damage a loop
> 
> something more like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pond-Filter-UV-Steriliser-Light-and-Fountain-Pump-APS-All-In-One-System-/400562335629?var=&hash=item5d43602f8d:m:mu_2lys_aQzend5A-nDrbFw which has the added bonus of also being the pump for the cooling loop, maybe not this specific item since its only 1000L/hr but a lot of other units around that do the 1500l/hr (which is apparently the maximum flow rate for most clc pumps) then again probably better to not use the integrated pump filter units because you would only need to run the uv system for an hour every other day for the sterilisation effect what with the clc only being 1ltr of water rather than the 400+ that these things are designed for lol
> 
> i might try it out in the future but then again the wife will probably not let me go the custom loop route before the kids leave home in another couple of years .....


You are going to need a very large reservoir for a pump like that, and I doubt it would prove all that beneficial compared to just a cheap biocide. As long as there are no mixed metals in the loop (unavoidable due to the fittings) you should technically not net anti corrosive additives, reality can be a b***h though so I doubt you will ever get to such a loop without some serious custom work.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> You are going to need a very large reservoir for a pump like that, and I doubt it would prove all that beneficial compared to just a cheap biocide. As long as there are no mixed metals in the loop (unavoidable due to the fittings) you should technically not net anti corrosive additives, reality can be a b***h though so I doubt you will ever get to such a loop without some serious custom work.


that pump has a lower flow rate listed than the standard cooling pumps for custom cooling loops so I don't see why it would need a larger resiviour than they do

that aside I agree with respect to the dissimilar metals issue, fun fact about most biocides they are corrosives and eat things like copper and alli...

personally I wouldn't even worry about biocides, DI water has nothing biological in it the cooling loop once flushed through has nothing biological in it so there's nothing to grow in there unless you leave the lid off or go sticking fingers into things ...

as soon as you start messing with the water treatment chemicals there's always more things to add and ph to test and it becomes a real nightmare, as soon as you heat it you have to test the ph levels again and of course you also have the added problems of all that stuff your adding to the water separating out of it and causing problems (like rot or corrosion, or just gunging things up), I suppose if your using premix then at least someone else has taken all the chemistry into account and you have someone to sue if they didn't do this and your gear dies ... but having spent months as a water treatment geek (because my boss hated me so I always got the fun jobs) I can honestly say I would rather shine a 9w + uv bulb into the side of the case every few days for an hour or so than add anything to the water, point it at the see through res and shove coat over the top so it doesn't get in your eyes and job done

also i'm hoping that by the time I get round to doing the custom cooling that copper or plastic fittings are around, to go with the copper block and the copper rads because that would just make life easier


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Teaser Shot. Log will be updated soon! Very excited.



TCO


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Researched and presented like a pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +REP for u
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a habit of only seeing / saying what works for me , that said my setup is not mainstream one little bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit
> 
> Also I can recycle my coolant ( if I ever need to ) I WOULD NEVER dispose of it unthoughtfully . But if I had to I could take ( Coolant ) it to the mechanics and they could recycle it for me .
> 
> It hasn't been in a cars cooling system so the heavy metals from being heated and cooled squillions of times just aren't there .


Awe... sniff!







Thanks man!

Well, I like to try different things and push the envelope of experimentation. At 44, I got nothing to loose and have done all the "by-the-book" stuff. BUT!! As an engineer, my brain and emotions need to start by the book so I have a baseline. Hence the brief research, it's fun to learn about the possibilities and that is what water cooling is about for most of us I think.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Awe... sniff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man!
> 
> Well, I like to try different things and push the envelope of experimentation. At 44, I got nothing to loose and have done all the "by-the-book" stuff. BUT!! As an engineer, my brain and emotions need to start by the book so I have a baseline. Hence the brief research, it's fun to learn about the possibilities and that is what water cooling is about for most of us I think.


45 myself ............


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> that pump has a lower flow rate listed than the standard cooling pumps for custom cooling loops so I don't see why it would need a larger resiviour than they do
> 
> that aside I agree with respect to the dissimilar metals issue, fun fact about most biocides they are corrosives and eat things like copper and alli...
> 
> personally I wouldn't even worry about biocides, DI water has nothing biological in it the cooling loop once flushed through has nothing biological in it so there's nothing to grow in there unless you leave the lid off or go sticking fingers into things ...
> 
> as soon as you start messing with the water treatment chemicals there's always more things to add and ph to test and it becomes a real nightmare, as soon as you heat it you have to test the ph levels again and of course you also have the added problems of all that stuff your adding to the water separating out of it and causing problems (like rot or corrosion, or just gunging things up), I suppose if your using premix then at least someone else has taken all the chemistry into account and you have someone to sue if they didn't do this and your gear dies ... but having spent months as a water treatment geek (because my boss hated me so I always got the fun jobs) I can honestly say I would rather shine a 9w + uv bulb into the side of the case every few days for an hour or so than add anything to the water, point it at the see through res and shove coat over the top so it doesn't get in your eyes and job done
> 
> also i'm hoping that by the time I get round to doing the custom cooling that copper or plastic fittings are around, to go with the copper block and the copper rads because that would just make life easier


Who gave you the idea that a high flow rate needs a large reservoir? The reson I stated that you would need a large reservoir for that pump is that it's a submersible, which means that you would need a reservoir big enough to submerge it in. In fact most pumps designed for fountains and aquariums are submersible, which is perfectly fine in it's own right. but they require a reservoir large enough to actually submerge the pump in.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> I was thinking more of one of those inline aquatic uv filter units myself but sure I guess you could do it bargain basement method although it sounds like a bad use of a led strip and a good way to damage a loop


I dunno, using aquarium equipment for PC cooling is pretty risky, particularly with the temps and pressure requirements, you'd probably want to run something like that in a separate loop...


----------



## GuitarFreak




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Will Have more shots after the Weekend. Need some day shots.







TCO


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Will Have more shots after the Weekend. Need some day shots.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Very nice! And dual HOFs at that!

Edited: oops, thought they were dualies for a moment. Still looks great!


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Will Have more shots after the Weekend. Need some day shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Are those the 980ti's that were on the market?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Are those the 980ti's that were on the market?


No Lol. I snagged the 980ti HOF off of a Canadian on Ebay.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

I want to snag one of those on the market lol


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I want to snag one of those on the market lol


I thought they were gone. In fact weren't you the one that was gonna make a deal for em?

Honestly if I didn't already have a 980ti and Bitspower block that I paid way too much for I'd have probably jumped on at least one of em.


----------



## DarthBaggins

There's still two left, lol
And it wasn't me making a deal for them. All I want/need is one for a R5 1600x build I plan on doing this winter


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Will Have more shots after the Weekend. Need some day shots.


Typical TCO....... White everywhere....






























Looking good bud...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Typical TCO....... White everywhere....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good bud...


Thanks Costas. I use colours sometimes. Rarely, but sometimes lol.






TCO


----------



## SauronTheGreat

Recently I made a plan to put a water block on my CPU, i have had a Corsair 900D case for quite a while now and i was running my i7 - 6850K Corsair H115i AIO cooler in push and pull configuration. So i made the following changes , i was advised by people to go for soft tubing as it was my first time. Currently running my CPU at 4.4Ghz @ 1.355V while gaming max temps are 54C and on stress testing on real bench the maximum temps were 68C after running it for 2 hours.

Liquid Cooling Components :-

EK - Supremacy EVO - Nickel (Original CSQ)
EK - CoolStream XE 360 (Triple) Radiator
EK - ACF Fitting 13 / 19 MM -Nickel
EK - X3 250 Reservoir
EK - CryoFuel Clear Concentrate Coolant in Distilled Water
EK - TUBE PrimoChillFlex 19.1 / 12.7 MM - Onyx Black
Swiftech MCP655-B G 1 / 4 Special Threaded Edition Pump

Imgur Link : http://imgur.com/gallery/MKhmJ


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Typical TCO....... White everywhere....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good bud...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Costas. I use colours sometimes. Rarely, but sometimes lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

That is beautiful! but as a smoker i must say screw all that white, tried it with my last build didn't stay beautiful long


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> That is beautiful! but as a smoker i must say screw all that white, tried it with my last build didn't stay beautiful long


Yeaaa. We dont smoke in the house.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Same here, all smoking outside


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks Costas. I use colours sometimes. Rarely, but sometimes lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


That looks really nice TCO. So nice that I am going to have to look into that pedestal for my s8.

What all do you keep in the basement of that?


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks Costas. I use colours sometimes. Rarely, but sometimes lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


that looks lovely do you have some UV reactive liquid and some UV spot lights in that case as well ?

I saw one some years ago that had UV/neon reactive custom cables on everything and as the lights changed between uv and neon colours it looked superb but it ive never seen anything like it since (I know it was a completely custom built job and the case was also white but someone had sprayed decals over the top using something uv reactive that didn't show up without the blakclights lol

was super, and every time I see a nice build it reminds me of it

my dream setup would have colour changing uv/neon lights inside the fittings so the liquid glowed as it flowed but the lights weren't visible outside the tubes....I know its highly impractical but in my mind it would look awesome, and I love looking at white system builds...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> That looks really nice TCO. So nice that I am going to have to look into that pedestal for my s8.
> 
> What all do you keep in the basement of that?


Just the rads and tubing.




TCO


----------



## nyk20z3

Coming along I just need to figure out how to route all the hard Tubing.


----------



## Jyve

I'm thinking about adding one if these....



To one of the gpu blocks plugged outlets. It looks like a pretty long probe so I guess my concern is the probe going through and up into one of the loop's tubes. I'm guessing this will restrict flow but my question is, will it restrict it too much.

Should I go with a smaller probe like this...



Anyone have this sort of setup? Your experiences?

The reason I'm looking at this is, I recently 'uograded' to a 5820k. Re did the loop and it feels pretty warm inside the case. I'm running a D5 and a single ek pe 360 for the 5820k and 980ti, both overclocked.

While gaming my temps are just fine. Played a bit of warframe and the destiny 2 beta. Cpu hovers in the mid 60s and gpu mid 40s. These seem just fine for a single 360. Touching the backplate of the gpu, it's very hot. Not too concerning as my buddy's msi Air cooled 980ti is just as hot. What is more troubling is just how hot my reservoir is to the touch.

Should I be worried if components are in check but the res is hot?

More info:
*running with the side panel off
*FD arc mini
*top 360 intake @100% (corsair sp120 quiets)
*2 x vardar f4's Front @ 7v exhaust
*ambient is pretty warm @ ~30c hottest part of the day


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I'm thinking about adding one if these....
> 
> 
> 
> To one of the gpu blocks plugged outlets. It looks like a pretty long probe so I guess my concern is the probe going through and up into one of the loop's tubes. I'm guessing this will restrict flow but my question is, will it restrict it too much.
> 
> Should I go with a smaller probe like this...
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have this sort of setup? Your experiences?
> 
> The reason I'm looking at this is, I recently 'uograded' to a 5820k. Re did the loop and it feels pretty warm inside the case. I'm running a D5 and a single ek pe 360 for the 5820k and 980ti, both overclocked.
> 
> While gaming my temps are just fine. Played a bit of warframe and the destiny 2 beta. Cpu hovers in the mid 60s and gpu mid 40s. These seem just fine for a single 360. Touching the backplate of the gpu, it's very hot. Not too concerning as my buddy's msi Air cooled 980ti is just as hot. What is more troubling is just how hot my reservoir is to the touch.
> 
> Should I be worried if components are in check but the res is hot?
> 
> More info:
> *running with the side panel off
> *FD arc mini
> *top 360 intake @100% (corsair sp120 quiets)
> *2 x vardar f4's Front @ 7v exhaust
> *ambient is pretty warm @ ~30c hottest part of the day


I recently bought the XSPC temperature display in black and white aswell. I temporarily connected it to my reservoir temp sensor. But I plan on connecting it to my Alphacool Inline temp sensor.

I bough this one but in black. I'm waiting on adding it when my Flow meter arrives, don't feel like taking it twice apart.


Your temps seem quite normal, tho. The 5820K is a 140W TDP CPU. My CPU goes up to 50-55°C and GPU rarely goes over 40°C. But I have a 360 and a 480 in my loop.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I recently bought the XSPC temperature display in black and white aswell. I temporarily connected it to my reservoir temp sensor. But I plan on connecting it to my Alphacool Inline temp sensor.
> 
> Your temps seem quite normal, tho. The 5820K is a 140W TDP CPU. My CPU goes up to 50-55°C and GPU rarely goes over 40°C. But I have a 360 and a 480 in my loop.


Yeah temps are just fine, for me at least. It's the hot as hell acrylic res that worries me. I have to admit that I never touched it before when it was cooling the 4690k the 5820k replaced. Who knows, might have been just as hot.

The air coming through the 360 is quite warm. I'm currently in the market for a new case. Something I can exhaust the hot air out better. Ideally with the rad front mounted intake and exhaust top and back. Flipping my current top 360 from push to pull intake might allow me to put an exhaust 120 in back.

Here's what I have going on.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Yeah temps are just fine, for me at least. It's the hot as hell acrylic res that worries me. I have to admit that I never touched it before when it was cooling the 4690k the 5820k replaced. Who knows, might have been just as hot.
> 
> The air coming through the 360 is quite warm. I'm currently in the market for a new case. Something I can exhaust the hot air out better. Ideally with the rad front mounted intake and exhaust top and back. Flipping my current top 360 from push to pull intake might allow me to put an exhaust 120 in back.
> 
> Here's what I have going on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I have my loop differently. Went from res to rad to GPU to rad to CPU to res. Could help that extra bit of cooling the coolant more. Dunno, tbh.

or a front mounted rad could also fix it.

My coolant maxes out at 37°C under heavy load while gaming. Which seems quite okay. GPU feels hot aswell.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I have my loop differently. Went from res to rad to GPU to rad to CPU to res. Could help that extra bit of cooling the coolant more. Dunno, tbh.
> 
> or a front mounted rad could also fix it.
> 
> My coolant maxes out at 37°C under heavy load while gaming. Which seems quite okay. GPU feels hot aswell.


Yeah a 240 res is next on the list. Though technically I'm good with the single 360, for some reason I can't help but think I need to buy more stuff









Go figure.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Yeah a 240 res is next on the list. Though technically I'm good with the single 360, for some reason I can't help but think I need to buy more stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go figure.


Hehe, me too. Always looking for excuses to buy something else for my loop.


----------



## SauronTheGreat

i was wondering how fast the water in a res evaporates ... like 1 mm in a day ?


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> i was wondering how fast the water in a res evaporates ... like 1 mm in a day ?


if the water ist around 30° it wont be so much. maybe you have to "fill the top" every month. Cooler water = less evaporate.

But it is not so much. i would not worry about it.

A little question. i have 2 thick rads. 60mm with a dustfilter on it. should i go push-pull or is a good pressure fan enough?
Differents btween air and water is max 6° but i want more. for gpu+cpu i have 1x 480 60mm 1x 240 60mm and 1x 240 x30mm. Even if i crank up the fans i dont get lower temps. i can change the 240/60mm rad to one more 480/60mm.

maybe i can hold the 240/60 and place it somewhere else


----------



## SauronTheGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> if the water ist around 30° it wont be so much. maybe you have to "fill the top" every month. Cooler water = less evaporate.
> 
> But it is not so much. i would not worry about it.
> 
> A little question. i have 2 thick rads. 60mm with a dustfilter on it. should i go push-pull or is a good pressure fan enough?
> Differents btween air and water is max 6° but i want more. for gpu+cpu i have 1x 480 60mm 1x 240 60mm and 1x 240 x30mm. Even if i crank up the fans i dont get lower temps. i can change the 240/60mm rad to one more 480/60mm.
> 
> maybe i can hold the 240/60 and place it somewhere else


are you saying if the CPU idle temps are 30C then it would not evaporate so much ? tbt where i live the ambient temps are above 30C and my idle cpu temps are in between 42C to 50 C ..

as far as i could understand what i have heard buying thicker rads does not lower temps, but i might be wrong , as far as push and pull is concerned it might give you like a 1C difference overall or maybe 2C if you are lucky, i know this from personal experience ..


----------



## Dimentoza

Maximum equipment))


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> if the water ist around 30° it wont be so much. maybe you have to "fill the top" every month. Cooler water = less evaporate.
> 
> But it is not so much. i would not worry about it.
> 
> A little question. i have 2 thick rads. 60mm with a dustfilter on it. should i go push-pull or is a good pressure fan enough?
> Differents btween air and water is max 6° but i want more. for gpu+cpu i have 1x 480 60mm 1x 240 60mm and 1x 240 x30mm. Even if i crank up the fans i dont get lower temps. i can change the 240/60mm rad to one more 480/60mm.
> 
> maybe i can hold the 240/60 and place it somewhere else


It depends on the fpi of the rads. But in my experience push/pull is never necessary, just use some good static pressure optimized fans and you're set


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> i was wondering how fast the water in a res evaporates ... like 1 mm in a day ?


Mine evaporated quite a bit some time ago, until I filled the res to the top. Haven't seen it go down once.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> i was wondering how fast the water in a res evaporates ... like 1 mm in a day ?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine evaporated quite a bit some time ago, until I filled the res to the top. Haven't seen it go down once.
Click to expand...

if a loop is properly sealed there should be nowhere for water to evap too, most of the time when you have noticed your rez drop levels its from a bubble that was hiding in a rad you probably didn't know was even there, bubbles are really gr8 at hiding especially if your rez isn't the highest piece in your loop,


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> if a loop is properly sealed there should be nowhere for water to evap too, most of the time when you have noticed your rez drop levels its from a bubble that was hiding in a rad you probably didn't know was even there, bubbles are really gr8 at hiding especially if your rez isn't the highest piece in your loop,


Never said it evaporates anywhere, it stays in the res, but the glass gets foggy.


----------



## Deedaz

Has anybody used/tested these primochill rads? I was looking for some info on their new fluid and found them but I haven't seen any builds with one yet.


----------



## SauronTheGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> if a loop is properly sealed there should be nowhere for water to evap too, most of the time when you have noticed your rez drop levels its from a bubble that was hiding in a rad you probably didn't know was even there, bubbles are really gr8 at hiding especially if your rez isn't the highest piece in your loop,


How can i ensure that no water escapes... the tiny hole on top of my reservoir where there is a tiny plastic fitting is not tightly shut, is it suppose to be shut tightly ? Secondly when should i refill my res when its 3/4 remaing and how much to the top ?

Sorry i am new to all this


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> How can i ensure that no water escapes... the tiny hole on top of my reservoir where there is a tiny plastic fitting is not tightly shut, is it suppose to be shut tightly ? Secondly when should i refill my res when its 3/4 remaing and how much to the top ?
> 
> Sorry i am new to all this


Is there an inlet tube inside the res? The waterline should be above that.

TCO


----------



## SauronTheGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is there an inlet tube inside the res? The waterline should be above that.
> 
> TCO


I do not think so


----------



## Barefooter

I recently finished up my pump set-up.

Dual Aquacomputer D5 Pumps with Aquabus Interface to be controlled from an Aquaero
Bitspower Dual D5 Top - Acrylic version - hand polished for 10 plus hours
Bitspower low profile stop plugs in chrome
Dual Bitspower D5 mod kits - modded to fit the Aquacomputer D5 pumps then chrome plated
Custom made pump brackets - chrome plated
Custom made acrylic spacer between the pump top and brackets
MDPC-X sleeving - Italian Red, Black and Platinum Grey
Darkside 3mm white LEDs custom sleeved with fan connector
Isolate It! Sorbothane Vibration Damping material under the brackets




With some red coolant


Illuminated


More pictures on this post on my build log.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Is there an inlet tube inside the res? The waterline should be above that.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> I do not think so
Click to expand...

that looks perfect, with that rez as long as you can see the water your good as your inlet for your loop is below the tank:thumb:


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Has anybody used/tested these primochill rads? I was looking for some info on their new fluid and found them but I haven't seen any builds with one yet.


ThermalBench review of EximoSX 360 -- 240 performance would likely be rated similarly ("average at best").

But if you want everything color-matched, they're the best there is. Thinking about doing PrimoChill for most of the cooling of my next build, coming sometime in February 2018. EximoSX radiators, D5 CTR Phase II pump/reservoir combo, Flex SX fittings, VUE coolant, and Advanced LRT tubing. The tubing would be clear, but the rest would be Candy Copper or maybe Candy Purple. I've already done blood red and neon green in previous builds.


----------



## VSG

^ Basically. They are using Magicool rads which is a pretty old design, the primary thing you are paying for here is the customization option and the much better finish than stock Magicool.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Basically. They are using Magicool rads which is a pretty old design, the primary thing you are paying for here is the customization option and the much better finish than stock Magicool.


I'm going to be moving my green lantern build into a BH8 so I'll probably put my current HWlabs rad in that and get one of these primochill rads in purple for my next S8 project. Great review btw


----------



## SauronTheGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> that looks perfect, with that rez as long as you can see the water your good as your inlet for your loop is below the tank:thumb:


oh nice .. so it would not matter if the reservoir half full ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> oh nice .. so it would not matter if the reservoir half full ?


Doesn't matter if it's half full or nearly empty, the only thing that matters is that the pump does not run dry. Still, most people tend to fill their reservoirs all the way up so that there is an excess of liquid as it will inevitably displace all the tiny air bubbles in the loop (making the air end up in the reservoir), as well as any liquid that will be absorbed in to the tubing.


----------



## SauronTheGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Doesn't matter if it's half full or nearly empty, the only thing that matters is that the pump does not run dry. Still, most people tend to fill their reservoirs all the way up so that there is an excess of liquid as it will inevitably displace all the tiny air bubbles in the loop (making the air end up in the reservoir), as well as any liquid that will be absorbed in to the tubing.


ok i get it now, but are you suggesting that the reservoir should be full all the way to the top ? because i have noticed one thing after 5 days or so there are no more bubbles in the reservoir, they were a lot at first..


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> ok i get it now, but are you suggesting that the reservoir should be full all the way to the top ? because i have noticed one thing after 5 days or so there are no more bubbles in the reservoir, they were a lot at first..


Doesn't matter, do as you want. If you want to fill it all up then you might want to leave a tiny bit of air at the top for the water to expand.


----------



## Jyve

Ok,this is what I got. Pretty limited where I can put it. Seems I have 2 choices.

1st involves tearing the loop down and putting it in one of the spare gpu ports. I'm guessing this'll give me the closest to an accurate reading.

2nd would be the end of my drain port. Clearly the easiest as all I need to do is replace the plug and open the valve. Likely not as accurate but close?

That's my question. Will #2 give me close enough readings?

Here's my drain port...


----------



## motoray




----------



## RMStringer

My Rig with Corsair Hydro Series H55 Quiet Edition on the HexaCore AMD Phenom II X6 Black Edition 1090T


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> 
> 
> Ok,this is what I got. Pretty limited where I can put it. Seems I have 2 choices.
> 
> 1st involves tearing the loop down and putting it in one of the spare gpu ports. I'm guessing this'll give me the closest to an accurate reading.
> 
> 2nd would be the end of my drain port. Clearly the easiest as all I need to do is replace the plug and open the valve. Likely not as accurate but close?
> 
> That's my question. Will #2 give me close enough readings?
> 
> Here's my drain port...


I placed it on one of the top slots of the GPU block. You get a very accurate reading from there.


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded on that being a good location- but really anyplace where the probe is near flow will work. The loop temp is not going to vary much around the loop, as long as you are not reading stagnant water.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Seconded on that being a good location- but really anyplace where the probe is near flow will work. The loop temp is not going to vary much around the loop, as long as you are not reading stagnant water.


To add also. If it is an EK block, make sure the probe is in one of the slots on the Backplate side. For some reason, EK blocks have less threads on the opposite side so if you place a probe below, it will induce more flow resistance.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> To add also. If it is an EK block, make sure the probe is in one of the slots on the Backplate side. For some reason, EK blocks have less threads on the opposite side so if you place a probe below, it will induce more flow resistance.


It's actually a Bitspower block. I'm guessing the drain valve tip will probably be stagnate? Unless maybe I put the rig under load then open the valve for a one time shot at reading temps.

Not particularly looking forward to tearing down the loop again for that thing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I would be cautious of putting it in the GPU terminal,you would be better served putting it in the res in a spare port. Those plugs can restrict flow quite badly when they are in a GPU terminal port.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would be cautious of putting it in the GPU terminal,you would be better served putting it in the res in a spare port. Those plugs can restrict flow quire badly when they are in a GPU terminal port.


Currently no extra port there other than the top single. At some point I may get a multi port top and refill through the top.


----------



## nanotm

the best temp checkers are the inlione ones that also read flow rate, of course you do have to add an extra thing to the loop and most people don't bother

I love the aio system of having the temp probe built into the pump, I don't understand why that isn't a standard option on all water loop kit /


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would be cautious of putting it in the GPU terminal,you would be better served putting it in the res in a spare port. Those plugs can restrict flow quire badly when they are in a GPU terminal port.


I double checked + triple checked it.

If you place the XSPC temp probe in to the Top slot of the EK waterblock (i.e. the slot that is on the same side as the backplate) you won't get any extra restriction.
If you place it in the slot on the other side, you might get issues.


----------



## Rainmaker91

I'm curious, how accurate would it be to put it in a spare port of a radiator? I mean the water temperature should be lower at the output end of a radiator than at the input, though that would make for really convenient placement (especially with Alphacool Nexxxos rads)


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'm curious, how accurate would it be to put it in a spare port of a radiator? I mean the water temperature should be lower at the output end of a radiator than at the input, though that would make for really convenient placement (especially with Alphacool Nexxxos rads)


The difference in water temp throughout the loop is negligible. So the location of the temp probe doesn't matter provided it is in an area that has flowing water.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> The difference in water temp throughout the loop is negligible. So the location of the temp probe doesn't matter provided it is in an area that has flowing water.


I see... well that makes one of my temp probes useless I guess, I had bought 2 of them since the Crosshair VI Hero has 2 inputs for watertemp. Maybe I'll just place a temp probe for my 1080ti VRMs instead then, also rad placement will make it all a hell of a lot easier than the T fittings I was planning to use.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'm curious, how accurate would it be to put it in a spare port of a radiator? I mean the water temperature should be lower at the output end of a radiator than at the input, though that would make for really convenient placement (especially with Alphacool Nexxxos rads)


Hi there

I have two inline Aquacomputer sensors G1/4 on inlet and outlet and difference between two sensors on idle is around 0.3°C

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2293

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see... well that makes one of my temp probes useless I guess, I had bought 2 of them since the Crosshair VI Hero has 2 inputs for watertemp. Maybe I'll just place a temp probe for my 1080ti VRMs instead then, also rad placement will make it all a hell of a lot easier than the T fittings I was planning to use.


I took a DMM and measured the temperature difference of the metal between the hottest point (the outlet of my CPU to rad because it has collected water from the GPU too) and the coldest point (the fitting that prior has had water going through 480mm x3 rads) asnd the difference was 2C. This was margin of error since my DMM is only accurate to 1C.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see... well that makes one of my temp probes useless I guess, I had bought 2 of them since the Crosshair VI Hero has 2 inputs for watertemp. Maybe I'll just place a temp probe for my 1080ti VRMs instead then, also rad placement will make it all a hell of a lot easier than the T fittings I was planning to use.


when you installed a tempprobe on the vrm, can you post how you made it? i wanan know my vrm-temps too, but nvidia is to poor to install some on a 700+GPU


----------



## muzammil84

some teaser shots of my build in progress.
more in build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1635462/build-log-scratch-sponsored-minimal-by-likwid-mods


----------



## hitzestau

Here are some images of our recently completed rig


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> when you installed a tempprobe on the vrm, can you post how you made it? i wanan know my vrm-temps too, but nvidia is to poor to install some on a 700+GPU


yeah I kind of miss that to, but I have some probes laying around from a fan controller so I figure I'll use one of those. As for placement, the VRM's are mounted with thermal pads on my block, so I figure I'll put it in between one of those and I should be able to get at the very least an approximation of the vrm temp at one of the chips.

Edit:
On a different note, I finally got around to testing out my Arctic f12 fans at a super low RPM. The noise of the blades and the air moving was quite pleasant, but they have a really annoying "whining" sound from the electric motor. So since I build my loops to be silent that sort of counteracts the point of it all. So I have started looking at new fans again, but since I don't have first hand knowledge of any of them I figure I would post my alternatives here and see what you guys impressions are of them. Keep in mind that I am going to run them all between 400-600 rpm so air noise is not an issue, but engine noise is. Also the prices mentioned are the ones that I have available in my country, and I won't really consider importing them as that rarely makes sense when it comes to pricing (after taxes, customs and international postage). The fans will be mounted on two 480mm Mosnta rads by Alphacool, currenty I have 16 Arctic f12 fans in push/pull, but with better fans I expect that just push will be enough. The loop only cools my CPU (Ryzen R7 1700x) and my GPU (1080Ti).

If any of you take the time to share your opinion I will really appreciate it, but I won't hold it against anyone if they just ignore my request either







So here is the options I have considered (values have been converted for easy reference):

*Corsair* ML120 2 pack (buying a total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1012 _NOK_ (130.4 _USD_, 106.5 _EUR_, 101.2 _GBP_)
*Cooler Master* Case acc MasterFan 120 (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1136 _NOK_ (146.4 _USD_, 119.6 _EUR_, 113.6 _GBP_)
*Be Quiet!* Silentwings 3 120mm Pwm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1752 _NOK_ (225.8 _USD_, 184.4 _EUR_, 175.2 _GBP_)
*FRACTAL DESIGN* Venturi HP-12 PWM (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1256 _NOK_ (161.9 _USD_, 131.8 _EUR_, 125.2 _GBP_)
*Noctua* NF-P12 PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1592 _NOK_ (205.2 _USD_, 167.6 _EUR_, 159.2 _GBP_)
*Noctua* NF-F12 PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1424 _NOK_ (183.5 _USD_, 149.9 _EUR_, 142.4 _GBP_)
*NZXT* AER P120 PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1208 _NOK_ (155.7 _USD_, 127.2 _EUR_, 120.8 _GBP_)
*EKWB* Vardar F1-120 PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1560 _NOK_ (201 _USD_, 164.2 _EUR_, 156 _GBP_)
*Enermax* D.F. Pressure PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1352 _NOK_ (174.2 _USD_, 142.3 _EUR_, 135.2 _GBP_)
*Alpenföhn* Wing Boost 2 Plus PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 552 _NOK_ (71.1 _USD_, 58.1 _EUR_, 55.2 _GBP_)
*Noiseblocker* eLoop B12-PS PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1912 _NOK_ (246.4 _USD_, 201.3 _EUR_, 191.2 _GBP_)
*Nidec* Servo Gentle Typhoon PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1560 _NOK_ (201 _USD_, 164.2 _EUR_, 156 _GBP_)
*Phanteks* PH-F120MP PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1560 _NOK_ (201 _USD_, 164.2 _EUR_, 156 _GBP_)



Spoiler: Currency value as of 07.09.2017 20:47 CEST




1.00 United States Dollar (USD) = 7.76 Norwegian Krone (NOK)
1.00 Euro (EUR) = 9.5 Norwegian Krone (NOK)
1.00 Pund Sterling (GBP) = 10.15 Norwegian Krone (NOK)




Thank you for taking the time to look at my request.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitzestau*
> 
> Here are some images of our recently completed rig


great looking build and i LOVE the pump res!


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## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> yeah I kind of miss that to, but I have some probes laying around from a fan controller so I figure I'll use one of those. As for placement, the VRM's are mounted with thermal pads on my block, so I figure I'll put it in between one of those and I should be able to get at the very least an approximation of the vrm temp at one of the chips.
> 
> Edit:
> On a different note, I finally got around to testing out my Arctic f12 fans at a super low RPM. The noise of the blades and the air moving was quite pleasant, but they have a really annoying "whining" sound from the electric motor. So since I build my loops to be silent that sort of counteracts the point of it all. So I have started looking at new fans again, but since I don't have first hand knowledge of any of them I figure I would post my alternatives here and see what you guys impressions are of them. Keep in mind that I am going to run them all between 400-600 rpm so air noise is not an issue, but engine noise is. Also the prices mentioned are the ones that I have available in my country, and I won't really consider importing them as that rarely makes sense when it comes to pricing (after taxes, customs and international postage). The fans will be mounted on two 480mm Mosnta rads by Alphacool, currenty I have 16 Arctic f12 fans in push/pull, but with better fans I expect that just push will be enough. The loop only cools my CPU (Ryzen R7 1700x) and my GPU (1080Ti).
> 
> If any of you take the time to share your opinion I will really appreciate it, but I won't hold it against anyone if they just ignore my request either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the options I have considered (values have been converted for easy reference):
> 
> *Corsair* ML120 2 pack (buying a total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1012 _NOK_ (130.4 _USD_, 106.5 _EUR_, 101.2 _GBP_)
> *Cooler Master* Case acc MasterFan 120 (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1136 _NOK_ (146.4 _USD_, 119.6 _EUR_, 113.6 _GBP_)
> *Be Quiet!* Silentwings 3 120mm Pwm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1752 _NOK_ (225.8 _USD_, 184.4 _EUR_, 175.2 _GBP_)
> *FRACTAL DESIGN* Venturi HP-12 PWM (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1256 _NOK_ (161.9 _USD_, 131.8 _EUR_, 125.2 _GBP_)
> *Noctua* NF-P12 PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1592 _NOK_ (205.2 _USD_, 167.6 _EUR_, 159.2 _GBP_)
> *Noctua* NF-F12 PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1424 _NOK_ (183.5 _USD_, 149.9 _EUR_, 142.4 _GBP_)
> *NZXT* AER P120 PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1208 _NOK_ (155.7 _USD_, 127.2 _EUR_, 120.8 _GBP_)
> *EKWB* Vardar F1-120 PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1560 _NOK_ (201 _USD_, 164.2 _EUR_, 156 _GBP_)
> *Enermax* D.F. Pressure PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1352 _NOK_ (174.2 _USD_, 142.3 _EUR_, 135.2 _GBP_)
> *Alpenföhn* Wing Boost 2 Plus PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 552 _NOK_ (71.1 _USD_, 58.1 _EUR_, 55.2 _GBP_)
> *Noiseblocker* eLoop B12-PS PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1912 _NOK_ (246.4 _USD_, 201.3 _EUR_, 191.2 _GBP_)
> *Nidec* Servo Gentle Typhoon PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1560 _NOK_ (201 _USD_, 164.2 _EUR_, 156 _GBP_)
> *Phanteks* PH-F120MP PWM 120mm (total of 8 fans), priced at a total of 1560 _NOK_ (201 _USD_, 164.2 _EUR_, 156 _GBP_)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Currency value as of 07.09.2017 20:47 CEST
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.00 United States Dollar (USD) = 7.76 Norwegian Krone (NOK)
> 1.00 Euro (EUR) = 9.5 Norwegian Krone (NOK)
> 1.00 Pund Sterling (GBP) = 10.15 Norwegian Krone (NOK)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to look at my request.


Gentle typhoons are some of the best and quietest fans I've ever used at any rpm level, so I would definitely recommend those. One cautionary note - on a rad that thick, push only fans won't really work that well at low rpm - they simply won't have the pressure to push enough air all the way through the rads so you'll give up some cooling using only one bank of fans.

From what I've seen previously and what I've read through lurking in this thread, I would suggest the following:

1) Gentle typhoons
2) EK vardars
3) Alpenföhn
4) e-loops (can be noisy in push-pull due to the design of the fan)

As I haven't used the others I'm not 100% sure what the sound signatures of the motors are like - however, BNeg and others who frequent this thread have used some or all of the above and will chime in as well I'm sure.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Gentle typhoons are some of the best and quietest fans I've ever used at any rpm level, so I would definitely recommend those. One cautionary note - on a rad that thick, push only fans won't really work that well at low rpm - they simply won't have the pressure to push enough air all the way through the rads so you'll give up some cooling using only one bank of fans.
> 
> From what I've seen previously and what I've read through lurking in this thread, I would suggest the following:
> 
> 1) Gentle typhoons
> 2) EK vardars
> 3) Alpenföhn
> 4) e-loops (can be noisy in push-pull due to the design of the fan)
> 
> As I haven't used the others I'm not 100% sure what the sound signatures of the motors are like - however, BNeg and others who frequent this thread have used some or all of the above and will chime in as well I'm sure.


Thanks for the feedback, I have a few Eloop 1900rpm fans and those are quite good but I always get turned off by the fact that they cost a bit more than the alternatives that doesn't need to be placed 10mm from any surface in pull position. So far the ml120 looks like the best contender in my eyes as they should perform well as well as being priced aggressively (the dual pack nearly makes them "cheap" fans). I tried listening through CoolingTechnique's videos on youtube to hear the difference in noise, but other than the few fans that stick out the method isn't controlled enough for an apples to apples comparison. The GTs are also quite high on my list though I'm unsure how low they can go on PWM as they are 1850rpm fans.


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## vmitri

This is my liquid device, believe it or not i believe liquid coolant in this format is good only for decoration.

Im working on developing a device based on modified liquid coolant which can act bettee then deleding, smaller in size, 70% better in performace and cheaper.

My rig is based on

Cpu: i7 7700k - overclocked to 5.5ghz
GPU: Aorus geforce 1080ti liquid coolant special edition
M.2 samsung 960 x2 raid 0
Ram ddr4 3200mhz
Thermaltake 480 kit with corsair fan control and thermaltake fans and controller x4

Thermaltake 750w rgb


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## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitzestau*
> 
> Here are some images of our recently completed rig


What coolant is that you have in there?


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## dwolvin

Fry's has a Neochanger D5 clone w/ 200ml res for $55 (posted to deals: w/ $20 rebate)


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## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Fry's has a Neochanger D5 clone w/ 200ml res for $55 (posted to deals: w/ $20 rebate)


I never really investigated, but was curious what kind of pump that was. I don't think it's a D5 clone though it does look like one physically. I don't think it has quite the rap range though.


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## mouacyk

How does this thing rate in 2017?
https://www.bit-tech.net/reviews/modding/case-mod/phinix-nano-tower-by-mike-krysztofiak/11/


It's kind of hard to see from the article exactly what's cooled by what, but the following is what I gathered:

CPU - by 120mm Radiator AIO on top
GPU - by custom loop with 360mm Radiator on side
Pretty cool to see all that in a tower that's just slightly bigger than a 2-liter bottle of soda.

And ASRock is releasing their X299 mITX board in the new few days... options options.


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## DarthBaggins

Test fitted new pump dress kits with the dual top


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## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Test fitted new pump dress kits with the dual top


i have the same setup. i sanded the clear piece with the channels to diffuse the light and slid rgb leds into the channels. then i cut/used a piece of opaque black polycarbonate on top of it. the result is a colored ring around the top if you are into that kinda thing


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## derickwm

It's been ages since I've popped in here, thought I'd come and share the final photos of my build 





































































More photos in the build log as usual.


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## DarthBaggins

@derickwm that build turned out amazing

Extensions showed up Friday from Mod-One


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## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
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I've not thumbs upped pics of a build before. Congrats on being the first. Just wow is all I got.


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## kgtuning

@derickwm good gawd... that's incredible! Great job.


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## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's been ages since I've popped in here, thought I'd come and share the final photos of my build
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The attention to detail down to the working VU meters and the twisted cloth wiring, to the metal work and plumbing, to the realization of the theme itself, is bewildering. If I had to sum up what I experienced upon viewing this piece of art in one word, I might say it was flabbergasting.














(two thumbs up!).


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's been ages since I've popped in here, thought I'd come and share the final photos of my build
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Steampunk done right is amazing. Nice work! The ageing looks great.


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## mouacyk

Don't grab the handles by accident, alright?


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## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's been ages since I've popped in here, thought I'd come and share the final photos of my build
> 
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Good grief that is impressive.


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## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Gentle typhoons are some of the best and quietest fans I've ever used at any rpm level, so I would definitely recommend those. One cautionary note - on a rad that thick, push only fans won't really work that well at low rpm - they simply won't have the pressure to push enough air all the way through the rads so you'll give up some cooling using only one bank of fans.
> 
> From what I've seen previously and what I've read through lurking in this thread, I would suggest the following:
> 
> 1) Gentle typhoons
> 2) EK vardars
> 3) Alpenföhn
> 4) e-loops (can be noisy in push-pull due to the design of the fan)
> 
> As I haven't used the others I'm not 100% sure what the sound signatures of the motors are like - however, BNeg and others who frequent this thread have used some or all of the above and will chime in as well I'm sure.


After a bit of thought I'm going to go for the ml120s, I can get 2 for the same price as 1 GT and they seem to be scoring about the same in tests.The MLs also has a wider PWM range ranging from 400-2400RPM which is impressive even when compared to the relatively good 550-1850RPm that the GTs will do. The dual packs simply make the MLs such a bargain for what they are, which is something I'm going to need if I need push/pull for my radiators. BTW, do I actually need that? I mean they are 84mm thick, but they are still Nexxxos rads with their well known low fin density.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's been ages since I've popped in here, thought I'd come and share the final photos of my build
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loving the coppery goodness that you crammed in there, and the attention to detail is just impressive as hell. Makes me feel that I should get off my a** and finish up my own copper build soon.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> After a bit of thought I'm going to go for the ml120s, I can get 2 for the same price as 1 GT and they seem to be scoring about the same in tests.The MLs also has a wider PWM range ranging from 400-2400RPM which is impressive even when compared to the relatively good 550-1850RPm that the GTs will do. The dual packs simply make the MLs such a bargain for what they are, which is something I'm going to need if I need push/pull for my radiators. BTW, do I actually need that? I mean they are 84mm thick, but they are still Nexxxos rads with their well known low fin density.
> loving the coppery goodness that you crammed in there, and the attention to detail is just impressive as hell. Makes me feel that I should get off my a** and finish up my own copper build soon.


84mm thick is even more reason to push pull. They have low FPI on such thick rads because any higher and you will definitely need 2000RPM + just to get any kind of airflow through them.


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## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
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Words just can't describe this... PC? Oh please it an ART! Wonderful finishing & all those details & gorgeous that shine through to build is totally fantastic! I hope one day i can build out such seductive & priceless beast!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 84mm thick is even more reason to push pull. They have low FPI on such thick rads because any higher and you will definitely need 2000RPM + just to get any kind of airflow through them.


The fin density is identical on the 80mm and the 30mm so that's not the reason on this particular series of radiators, still it's not like there won't be any air flowing though them at all. Still, it's not like I'm cooling massive amounts of heat here, though I guess it's better to be safe than sorry when first dealing with this. Having to get 16 fans instead of 8 is only pushing me more toward the ML fans though as a a hundred dollar difference in price is acceptable, but 200 dollars is stretching it.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The fin density is identical on the 80mm and the 30mm so that's not the reason on this particular series of radiators, still it's not like there won't be any air flowing though them at all. Still, it's not like I'm cooling massive amounts of heat here, though I guess it's better to be safe than sorry when first dealing with this. Having to get 16 fans instead of 8 is only pushing me more toward the ML fans though as a a hundred dollar difference in price is acceptable, but 200 dollars is stretching it.


Have you taken the thickness in to account?
The fin density might be like 10 fpi but you are pushing air through 84mm of it.
10 fpi at 84mm is very different to 10fpi at 30mm, simple math would suggest at least 3 times the restriction.

I meant the sheer thickness of the rad is enough for you to consider push pull. This is before I've considered other resistances like fan grills and dust filters.


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## hitzestau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> What coolant is that you have in there?


It's Mayhems Pastel Red


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's been ages since I've popped in here, thought I'd come and share the final photos of my build
> 
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## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Have you taken the thickness in to account?
> The fin density might be like 10 fpi but you are pushing air through 84mm of it.
> 10 fpi at 84mm is very different to 10fpi at 30mm, simple math would suggest at least 3 times the restriction.
> 
> I meant the sheer thickness of the rad is enough for you to consider push pull. This is before I've considered other resistances like fan grills and dust filters.


Fair enough, I just wanted a clear answer rather than "at that thickness you need push/pull". Corsair ML120s it is.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Fair enough, I just wanted a clear answer rather than "at that thickness you need push/pull". Corsair ML120s it is.


Any particular reason you are going with those rads at all?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Any particular reason you are going with those rads at all?


Already have them and I'm not tempted to buy new ones.


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## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Already have them and I'm not tempted to buy new ones.


Of course, and completely understandable. You can more than get away with a single set of those ML120 fans with the NexXxos Monsta rad btw, if you are okay with fan noise past 1500-1600 RPM. It all comes down to how much cooling you want.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Of course, and completely understandable. You can more than get away with a single set of those ML120 fans with the NexXxos Monsta rad btw, if you are okay with fan noise past 1500-1600 RPM. It all comes down to how much cooling you want.


so push/pull is really needed then... I had hoped to get away with using fewer fans, but I guess it's unavoidable.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> so push/pull is really needed then... I had hoped to get away with using fewer fans, but I guess it's unavoidable.


Like I said, it comes down to how much heat the rad needs to dissipate before you are happy with it. Try it with a single set of fans first, and you can always buy more later if you aren't happy.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Like I said, it comes down to how much heat the rad needs to dissipate before you are happy with it. Try it with a single set of fans first, and you can always buy more later if you aren't happy.


true, though with the covers that I'm making for the rads I will need to either accommodate 1 set of fans or 2 under it. So if people are so adamant that just a simple push set-up won't be enough then I should probably believe them. Still with the amount of radiator surface area I have just to cool a simple 2 component loop I'm really struggling to see why push/pull would be needed. I did run the loop with just a push setup for 6 months without really having issues with temperature, it should be mentioned that I have swapped hardware since then (3570k to 1700x, and 7950 to 1080Ti).

Edit, in the push set-up my fans ran at about 900rpm though.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> true, though with the covers that I'm making for the rads I will need to either accommodate 1 set of fans or 2 under it. So if people are so adamant that just a simple push set-up won't be enough then I should probably believe them. Still with the amount of radiator surface area I have just to cool a simple 2 component loop I'm really struggling to see why push/pull would be needed. I did run the loop with just a push setup for 6 months without really having issues with temperature, it should be mentioned that I have swapped hardware since then (3570k to 1700x, and 7950 to 1080Ti).
> 
> Edit, in the push set-up my fans ran at about 900rpm though.


You'd be looking at going from ~300w of heat to somewhere north of ~400W then most likely, more if you want to chase 4ghz on the 1700X. So around 30-40% more heat entering the loop as a guestimate.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> You'd be looking at going from ~300w of heat to somewhere north of ~400W then most likely, more if you want to chase 4ghz on the 1700X. So around 30-40% more heat entering the loop as a guestimate.


my 1700x is a dud as far as I'm concerned, I have to get close to the limits of what is healthy long term for it to actually reach 3.9Ghz. So I just run it at a healthy 1.35v @3.8Ghz on all cores. The 1080Ti undoubtedly pulls more power than my 7950, especially due to the highly aggressive boost clock. Still my 7950 was OC's at 1200Mhz from the stock 850mhz so it wasn't exactly pulling the same as a stock one any more, the 3570k was also OCd to 4.5Ghz. Anyway, I get the point though, I'll probably just buy 16 ml120s then.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> my 1700x is a dud as far as I'm concerned, I have to get close to the limits of what is healthy long term for it to actually reach 3.9Ghz. So I just run it at a healthy 1.35v @3.8Ghz on all cores. The 1080Ti undoubtedly pulls more power than my 7950, especially due to the highly aggressive boost clock. Still my 7950 was OC's at 1200Mhz from the stock 850mhz so it wasn't exactly pulling the same as a stock one any more, the 3570k was also OCd to 4.5Ghz. Anyway, I get the point though, I'll probably just buy 16 ml120s then.


Yeah, too bad with the 1700X.. I've got my 1700 prime95 stable with 1.35v under load at 3.975Ghz with ram at 3466C15 and it's working pretty well on air cooling.. though it gets real loud and still peaks at 80C on the cpu and up to 90C on the VRM. I'm looking forward to seeing what the monoblock does to the temps when I eventually have time to do a rebuild with it. Looking at finally building in the TJ07 again after years of it sitting around, with all the money I've spent on that case I could almost have gotten a Caselabs now heh.. would still be too wide for my desk though.

Also, for comparison purposes: Firestrike result with 1080ti superclocked on it's default settings (Link)


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Yeah, too bad with the 1700X.. I've got my 1700 prime95 stable with 1.35v under load at 3.975Ghz with ram at 3466C15 and it's working pretty well on air cooling.. though it gets real loud and still peaks at 80C on the cpu and up to 90C on the VRM. I'm looking forward to seeing what the monoblock does to the temps when I eventually have time to do a rebuild with it. Looking at finally building in the TJ07 again after years of it sitting around, with all the money I've spent on that case I could almost have gotten a Caselabs now heh.. would still be too wide for my desk though.
> 
> Also, for comparison purposes: Firestrike result with 1080ti superclocked on it's default settings (Link)


I'm curious what mine will do. The hardware is so similar, but I pre ordered the cpu, memory and motherboard so I got a 1700x (some bull**** rumors about non x not being able to do as well) as well as 2400mhz memory since I'm used to memory speeds not being a big deal. My 1080Ti gets to about 1950Mhz on boost when power limits are set to max and fan speeds are maxed out on my current cooler (EVGA SC Black editition). I just hope I don't score below 20k, because that would really bug me.


----------



## Trestles126

still love my caselabs S8 i built up havent had much time to do much on it but recently started working on a idea to illuminate the waterplate that jim at clockwerks built. like how it came out going to have my friend design a coverplate for it to house the darkside leds


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> true, though with the covers that I'm making for the rads I will need to either accommodate 1 set of fans or 2 under it. So if people are so adamant that just a simple push set-up won't be enough then I should probably believe them. Still with the amount of radiator surface area I have just to cool a simple 2 component loop I'm really struggling to see why push/pull would be needed. I did run the loop with just a push setup for 6 months without really having issues with temperature, it should be mentioned that I have swapped hardware since then (3570k to 1700x, and 7950 to 1080Ti).
> 
> Edit, in the push set-up my fans ran at about 900rpm though.


run the ml's in pull mode, so long as they are spinning with the corsair logo pointing upwards or are running vertically they are fine, if you invert the fans (mount them as top extractors for example) your running against the magnetic bearing

single fans on pull mode actually move more air through a radiator because there creating a vortex point and have no rebound to slow down the volume of air they are moving, single fans in push mode have rebound to overcome which means they run faster to move the same volume of air

in push pull configuration your only moving a tiny bit more air that in pull mode only....

you can probably get away with just 8 fans in pull mode on that rad, if your using flex pipe set the loop up outside the case and run it as hard as you can go (appreciate this isn't possible if your using solid pipes) that way you will know if you need the extra 2-5 degrees Celsius cooling that a second set of fans will generate....

don't just waste the money buying 16 fans....

also get something like this or this

to make sure there all controlled via a single pwm output off the mobo, oh and you can apparently daisy chain a couple of those controllers if necessary (the phobya ones is sata powered not sure about the Silverstone one) obviously since I'm from the UK I link stuff from amazon UK but you can likely find a dozen different ones in whatever shop you prefer locally /

also I would probably prefer to spend the few bucks on flex tubing to test the loop even if I was building it with fixed tubes just to test how it all works rather than buying the second set of fans /


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's been ages since I've popped in here, thought I'd come and share the final photos of my build
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Holy ****.


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## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> run the ml's in pull mode, so long as they are spinning with the corsair logo pointing upwards or are running vertically they are fine, if you invert the fans (mount them as top extractors for example) your running against the magnetic bearing
> 
> single fans on pull mode actually move more air through a radiator because there creating a vortex point and have no rebound to slow down the volume of air they are moving, single fans in push mode have rebound to overcome which means they run faster to move the same volume of air
> 
> in push pull configuration your only moving a tiny bit more air that in pull mode only....
> 
> you can probably get away with just 8 fans in pull mode on that rad, if your using flex pipe set the loop up outside the case and run it as hard as you can go (appreciate this isn't possible if your using solid pipes) that way you will know if you need the extra 2-5 degrees Celsius cooling that a second set of fans will generate....
> 
> don't just waste the money buying 16 fans....
> 
> also get something like this or this
> 
> to make sure there all controlled via a single pwm output off the mobo, oh and you can apparently daisy chain a couple of those controllers if necessary (the phobya ones is sata powered not sure about the Silverstone one) obviously since I'm from the UK I link stuff from amazon UK but you can likely find a dozen different ones in whatever shop you prefer locally /
> 
> also I would probably prefer to spend the few bucks on flex tubing to test the loop even if I was building it with fixed tubes just to test how it all works rather than buying the second set of fans /


The lop in itself will be fairly similar to what I have been running for a year now, you can see it here if you are interested. It's a rebuild of something I already have rather than starting from scratch, so that's why I'm saying that I know it works well enough with just push fans. Still that was with different blocks and different hardware, but even if I pull 100w more now that's still way below the potential of a dual 480 monsta setup.

You mention running them with the corsair logo up, what exactly do you mean by that? do these fans struggle with the same issues that sleeve bearing fans does? how will the radiator set-up as it is in the build I linked work compared to what you mention? Are you suggesting I should exhaust the air out the bottom of the case instead of the top?


----------



## nycgtr

Just about done with my primo.


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## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> Just about done with my primo.


Well that's different... is that a screen over the lower radiator? Either way it's a creative way to fill up the empty space in the case, I just do it with enormous radiators.

Edit: I forgot to say, but it looks good


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well that's different... is that a screen over the lower radiator? Either way it's a creative way to fill up the empty space in the case, I just do it with enormous radiators.
> 
> Edit: I forgot to say, but it looks good


Yeah I considered the over the radiator part. THe sides are open so there's still air going thru. I have a 360 and 480 in that loop for my 2 titans. It barely gets hot enough to matter







.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's been ages since I've popped in here, thought I'd come and share the final photos of my build
> 
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Honestly, not quite my style, but it looks great considering what you were going for, and I can certainly respect that you left absolutely nothing untouched. A few of my less-interested-in-computers friends actually showed me pics a few days ago, and I had no idea it was you.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The lop in itself will be fairly similar to what I have been running for a year now, you can see it here if you are interested. It's a rebuild of something I already have rather than starting from scratch, so that's why I'm saying that I know it works well enough with just push fans. Still that was with different blocks and different hardware, but even if I pull 100w more now that's still way below the potential of a dual 480 monsta setup.
> 
> You mention running them with the corsair logo up, what exactly do you mean by that? do these fans struggle with the same issues that sleeve bearing fans does? how will the radiator set-up as it is in the build I linked work compared to what you mention? Are you suggesting I should exhaust the air out the bottom of the case instead of the top?


mag lev fans have to be mounted either flat or vertical, and the logo on the front of the fan must be facing towards the ceiling if they are horizontal, something about the field strength not being enough to pull the fan upwards off the stops otherwise so it wont float and have good rotation (will make a lot of noise as well as overtaxing it)

can you move the bottom rad to be front mounted in the case ? I have no clue how those cases work if not then you could mount the fans under the radiator (as pull extractors) to extract out the bottom, and then mount the fans on the top one again in either push (above the rad) or pull (under the rad) so it becomes an intake, this will stop you damaging the bearings and make them last a lot longer (all maglev fans have this limitation)

so yeah its going to change the airflow to be intake on the top and extract on the bottom if your going with the maglev fans..

the rest of you case fans can be as they were though it wont make any real difference to temps within the case which rad is acting as intake or exhaust


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> mag lev fans have to be mounted either flat or vertical, and the logo on the front of the fan must be facing towards the ceiling if they are horizontal, something about the field strength not being enough to pull the fan upwards off the stops otherwise so it wont float and have good rotation (will make a lot of noise as well as overtaxing it)
> 
> can you move the bottom rad to be front mounted in the case ? I have no clue how those cases work if not then you could mount the fans under the radiator (as pull extractors) to extract out the bottom, and then mount the fans on the top one again in either push (above the rad) or pull (under the rad) so it becomes an intake, this will stop you damaging the bearings and make them last a lot longer (all maglev fans have this limitation)
> 
> so yeah its going to change the airflow to be intake on the top and extract on the bottom if your going with the maglev fans..
> 
> the rest of you case fans can be as they were though it wont make any real difference to temps within the case which rad is acting as intake or exhaust


I see, so some of the same limitations that sleeve bearing fans have then (they will struggle if the fan blades is pulled away from the frame by gravity). I'll have to think a bit more on which fans to buy then, as I don't really want to buy fans with limitations to them any-more (learned my lesson with eloops).


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see, so some of the same limitations that sleeve bearing fans have then (they will struggle if the fan blades is pulled away from the frame by gravity). I'll have to think a bit more on which fans to buy then, as I don't really want to buy fans with limitations to them any-more (learned my lesson with eloops).


yeah that's the only draw back with them that I've come across, I mean I have a front mounted rad with 4 of them in push pull normally they don't go above 1080 rpm (and that's still a lot quieter than the sickle flow fans were on the case without a filter using the noise suppressor loop...) I expect it will be a constant problem for maglev fans anyway, they will likely bring out the updated versions with the fan blades moving backwards rather than try and fix the problem, not that it would be difficult to fix just add a pair of tiny springs to the spindle on the inside of the motor just large enough to ensure its seated the right way for optimal use no matter which way up its facing .....

but hey its your choice you can get a good quiet fan with one limitation or you can get a different type that's not as quiet (for the same price) with no limitations or more expensive ones that work about the same again without limitations.....

I bought 8 different makes of fans and sent all of the others back after deciding the ml's were the best performance/silence/price combo, some of the others were cheaper some were better at cooling some were quieter, but none were quieter whilst doing the same cooling job, for the same or cheaper price / in my very unscientific test using my smart phone with a dbm app...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> yeah that's the only draw back with them that I've come across, I mean I have a front mounted rad with 4 of them in push pull normally they don't go above 1080 rpm (and that's still a lot quieter than the sickle flow fans were on the case without a filter using the noise suppressor loop...) I expect it will be a constant problem for maglev fans anyway, they will likely bring out the updated versions with the fan blades moving backwards rather than try and fix the problem, not that it would be difficult to fix just add a pair of tiny springs to the spindle on the inside of the motor just large enough to ensure its seated the right way for optimal use no matter which way up its facing .....
> 
> but hey its your choice you can get a good quiet fan with one limitation or you can get a different type that's not as quiet (for the same price) with no limitations or more expensive ones that work about the same again without limitations.....
> 
> I bought 8 different makes of fans and sent all of the others back after deciding the ml's were the best performance/silence/price combo, some of the others were cheaper some were better at cooling some were quieter, but none were quieter whilst doing the same cooling job, for the same or cheaper price / in my very unscientific test using my smart phone with a dbm app...


As I said I have to think it over, though I'm unsure if the benefit of doing the current set-up justifies getting more expensive fans. For the record though, if I'm not getting the ML's then I'm getting Nidec GTs, EK Vardars or Be-Quiet Silent Wings 3. Just haven't decided yet is all.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

My Toaster:


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> tacky and impractical af. money cant buy taste.
> 
> edit: went through the build log. the power switch is stupid af. would be funny if someone accidentally bumps into it and switches it off. im curious to know whether the gauges on it works or are they just for show? the effort for custom is quite a joke tbh. sticking a few gears here and there. workmanship also looks crappy given the budget. for 20k i would expect something of p0pe's quality. overall this is like the ricer of the pc world.


Wow. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say you're the o lyrics one that has this opinion of this build.

You're crazy 'af' if you don't think this is a sick build. The budget is ridiculous, I can agree with that but that's all.

The power switch is awesome and the games do work.

There is truly no accounting for taste.

And you have none.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> tacky and impractical af. money cant buy taste.
> 
> edit: went through the build log. the power switch is stupid af. would be funny if someone accidentally bumps into it and switches it off. im curious to know whether the gauges on it works or are they just for show? the effort for custom is quite a joke tbh. sticking a few gears here and there. workmanship also looks crappy given the budget. for 20k i would expect something of p0pe's quality. overall this is like the ricer of the pc world.


so let's see your work then to compare and critique


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> so let's see your work then to compare and critique


Check out his recent post history pretty much all bashing.

Not my thing but I can appreciate the time that went into it .


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Check out his recent post history pretty much all bashing.
> 
> Not my thing but I can appreciate the time that went into it .


Well noticed such a small post count over 5 years says alot to me. For what Derick was going for it's amazing


----------



## sli_shroom

i like steam punk and this build is a great representation. the best part is after the initial hurried finish, which dindt do his skills or the theme justice, he went back and reworked it to achieve the state it should've originally been released in.

it is one thing to release a build, but it is a whole nother level to admit your work was lacking and go back and finish/fix it...shows character


----------



## Jyve

I should've investigated further before being drawn in by a troll. That's my fault.


----------



## sli_shroom

...Because some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.

- Alfred Pennyworth


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

_I just want to watch the world burn_... but I still think Derick's build is incredible (as are the photos).

I'm guessing it just couldn't stand up to the magnificence of the troll's Dell stocker.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Check out his recent post history pretty much all bashing.
> 
> Not my thing but I can appreciate the time that went into it .
> 
> 
> 
> Well noticed such a small post count over 5 years says alot to me. For what Derick was going for it's amazing
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> i like steam punk and this build is a great representation. the best part is after the initial hurried finish, which dindt do his skills or the theme justice, he went back and reworked it to achieve the state it should've originally been released in.
> 
> it is one thing to release a build, but it is a whole nother level to admit your work was lacking and go back and finish/fix it...shows character


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> I just want to watch the world burn... but I still think Derick's build is incredible (as are the photos).
> 
> I'm guessing it just couldn't stand up to the magnificence of the troll's Dell stocker.


----------



## Shiikamaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Wow. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say you're the o lyrics one that has this opinion of this build.
> 
> You're crazy 'af' if you don't think this is a sick build. The budget is ridiculous, I can agree with that but that's all.
> 
> The power switch is awesome and the games do work.
> 
> There is truly no accounting for taste.
> 
> And you have none.


sick component yes. sick build no. theres no consistency in the theme. the pasting of gears here and there looks tacky. some parts are weathered some parts are not. the parallelogram shaped copper cutout doesnt exactly flow with the lines of other parts. some of the running pipes are crooked. but yea.. you get the idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well noticed such a small post count over 5 years says alot to me. For what Derick was going for it's amazing


didnt know post count matters for opinions. logic eh. i dont feel what i said about the piece is anything wrong. its after all my opinion.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> sick component yes. sick build no. theres no consistency in the theme. the pasting of gears here and there looks tacky. some parts are weathered some parts are not. the parallelogram shaped copper cutout doesnt exactly flow with the lines of other parts. some of the running pipes are crooked. but yea.. you get the idea.
> didnt know post count matters for opinions. logic eh. i dont feel what i said about the piece is anything wrong. its after all my opinion.


Opinions are fine, and in most cases welcome. Still there isn't a need to bash something just because you don't like it. There is a ton of build on here that I personally don't like the look of, but I can admire the time and effort put in to them none the less. Besides taste is not quantifiable by any stretch of the imagination, it's individual by definition.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> tacky and impractical af. money cant buy taste.
> 
> edit: went through the build log. the power switch is stupid af. would be funny if someone accidentally bumps into it and switches it off. im curious to know whether the gauges on it works or are they just for show? the effort for custom is quite a joke tbh. sticking a few gears here and there. workmanship also looks crappy given the budget. for 20k i would expect something of p0pe's quality. overall this is like the ricer of the pc world.


BAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....

Shut up.... the buid was awesome and ur a douche troll....

BAAAHAHAHAHAHHA


----------



## derickwm

Appreciate the nice words guys, but no need to feed the troll. There will always be those that have to be contrary and point out everything "that's wrong." The sponsors of the build are happy, I'm happy, and 99.9% of the Internet is happy, I'll chock that up as a win. Plus, the build has already secured me some future sponsors


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'm curious what mine will do. The hardware is so similar, but I pre ordered the cpu, memory and motherboard so I got a 1700x (some bull**** rumors about non x not being able to do as well) as well as 2400mhz memory since I'm used to memory speeds not being a big deal. My 1080Ti gets to about 1950Mhz on boost when power limits are set to max and fan speeds are maxed out on my current cooler (EVGA SC Black editition). I just hope I don't score below 20k, because that would really bug me.


I actually have the same card as you it turns out.. here's my result with the cpu clocked at 3.8ghz, everything else the same, gpu at defaults: (Link)

I got this cpu from siliconlottery for $389 USD about a month after launch, it was binned to do 4Ghz realbench stable for an hour.

Edit: Bad news, I dropped the ram to 2400 with the same timings and ran it again (Link)

Looks like dropping the ram speed loses you ~30% off the combined score and drops you below 20K overall score in firestrike. It makes sense, dropping the ram speed drops the fabic speed that the pci-e, ram, and core complexes talk to each other across.

Edit2; more testing:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Gta5 benchmark mostly highest 1080p 4xAA with TXAA at 3.8Ghz 2400C15:

Code:



Code:


Frames Per Second (Higher is better) Min, Max, Avg
Pass 0, 54.720928, 122.497574, 95.602119
Pass 1, 71.562035, 128.131210, 104.526871
Pass 2, 75.328613, 145.743393, 105.037804
Pass 3, 62.004013, 164.987503, 122.550140
Pass 4, 43.419491, 163.858353, 108.088081

And previous test at my normal 3.975Ghz 3466C15:

Code:



Code:


Frames Per Second (Higher is better) Min, Max, Avg
Pass 0, 61.352741, 128.253326, 106.126587
Pass 1, 76.910324, 149.831024, 118.184654
Pass 2, 92.092422, 175.718430, 123.327805
Pass 3, 29.514191, 199.648819, 142.756821
Pass 4, 36.652805, 190.788406, 127.568474


----------



## nanotm

I wouldn't worry too much about benchmark software results, most of them will be updated for the next intel release and magically even the current i3 will be beating the 1800x on just about everything ...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> I wouldn't worry too much about benchmark software results, most of them will be updated for the next intel release and magically even the current i3 will be beating the 1800x on just about everything ...


I know, it just bugs me that I could have had that much more performance for a about a hundred bucks more at release. So it's more about me seeing how mine compare with others based solely on the fact that I have a lower clocked cpu and memory.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> I actually have the same card as you it turns out.. here's my result with the cpu clocked at 3.8ghz, everything else the same, gpu at defaults: (Link)
> 
> I got this cpu from siliconlottery for $389 USD about a month after launch, it was binned to do 4Ghz realbench stable for an hour.
> 
> Edit: Bad news, I dropped the ram to 2400 with the same timings and ran it again (Link)
> 
> Looks like dropping the ram speed loses you ~30% off the combined score and drops you below 20K overall score in firestrike. It makes sense, dropping the ram speed drops the fabic speed that the pci-e, ram, and core complexes talk to each other across.
> 
> Edit2; more testing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Gta5 benchmark mostly highest 1080p 4xAA with TXAA at 3.8Ghz 2400C15:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Frames Per Second (Higher is better) Min, Max, Avg
> Pass 0, 54.720928, 122.497574, 95.602119
> Pass 1, 71.562035, 128.131210, 104.526871
> Pass 2, 75.328613, 145.743393, 105.037804
> Pass 3, 62.004013, 164.987503, 122.550140
> Pass 4, 43.419491, 163.858353, 108.088081
> 
> And previous test at my normal 3.975Ghz 3466C15:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Frames Per Second (Higher is better) Min, Max, Avg
> Pass 0, 61.352741, 128.253326, 106.126587
> Pass 1, 76.910324, 149.831024, 118.184654
> Pass 2, 92.092422, 175.718430, 123.327805
> Pass 3, 29.514191, 199.648819, 142.756821
> Pass 4, 36.652805, 190.788406, 127.568474


I did a test of my own and, yeah I'm below 20k. I know my memory can handle 2666mhz so I mihgt push that, and if I loosen up the timings I know they managed to get 3200mhz on these chips on level1tech.

anyway, this should be my results (unless I somehow forgot how I'm supposed to share these things)
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/22093942


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> BAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....
> 
> Shut up.... the buid was awesome and ur a douche troll....
> 
> BAAAHAHAHAHAHHA


Wind your neck in little man.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wind your neck in little man.


I'd never heard that expression (though I could infer it's meaning well enough). Just not something we say on 'this side of the pond'. However, it did make me think of a toy from my childhood:


----------



## nyk20z3

I have a question for you guys.

I am looking to run dual Alphacool DDC pumps with a Koolance RP-401X2 unit. The question is they are powered by 4 pin pwm only so would I be able to connect them both to one water pump header or would that overload it?. I am using a Asus Apex with both a AIO and Custom pump header.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I have a question for you guys.
> 
> I am looking to run dual Alphacool DDC pumps with a Koolance RP-401X2 unit. The question is they are powered by 4 pin pwm only so would I be able to connect them both to one water pump header or would that overload it?. I am using a Asus Apex with both a AIO and Custom pump header.


My advice would be to buy a harness that uses molex (or even better SATA power) to power the pump but a pwm fan header to control the speed


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I have a question for you guys.
> 
> I am looking to run dual Alphacool DDC pumps with a Koolance RP-401X2 unit. The question is they are powered by 4 pin pwm only so would I be able to connect them both to one water pump header or would that overload it?. I am using a Asus Apex with both a AIO and Custom pump header.


get something like this if your worried about the power draw off the mobo header it pulls the 12vdc direct from the psu

and sure a 8 way unit might be too much but i'm sure you can get similar things for smaller number of devices....

I have one and whilst its instruction page leaves a lot to be desired it can be used for pumps but only on ports 1 and 2, there's probably better pwm extenders out there having said that I happen to know the one I got works, has a sticky back mount and its easy to use a bit of black tape to cover unused fan headers, although its a 4 pin molex connector ....

it only tells the mobo header about the first device so if your mobo has a pump header connect to that, for the two pumps (the mobo doesn't care how many pumps there are) and put the radiator fans via another one onto cpu_fan and your golden with everything controllable via your software or button controller (I like software)

I stuck my pwm extender into the pwm line on my AIO cooler and have it running the 4 fans (push/pull) and also 2 of the case fans (because its nice to have everything the same) originally I wanted to get a comand pro module but all the ones I could see were expensive and had a lot of complaints about them not working on more than 4 fans lol


----------



## VSG

For those wanting to make more orders or curious about the status of pending ones, Performance PCs is back up now based on what the proprietor just said. Looks like they didn't take any hurricane damage too luckily.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For those wanting to make more orders or curious about the status of pending ones, Performance PCs is back up now based on what the proprietor just said. Looks like they didn't take any hurricane damage too luckily.


I never dated anyone named IRMA, but the 12% off coupon might leave room for a first time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Coool. I was having kittens when I first saw Irma moving in for the kill.







...

... no pun or offense intended....









~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I never dated anyone named IRMA, but the 12% off coupon might leave room for a first time.


What's the code for this?

*edit* disregard. I spent about 8 seconds and found it









Apologize for my laziness


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> What's the code for this?


It's in the first slide at the top of their home page.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> What's the code for this?
> 
> 
> 
> It's in the first slide at the top of their home page.
Click to expand...

LOL best coupon code ever


----------



## moRReus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> LOL best coupon code ever


Agreed. Just found this code earlier, now I HAVE to find something to buy!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Definitely a good coupon code. Glad to see PPCs is ok after Irma's onslaught on FL. And yes I'll have to order some goodies now that I was going to wait till I got back to GA to order lol


----------



## iamjanco

Just completed my $470 contribution. My x299 build is going to have cooling coming out its wazoo.


----------



## clubbin09

Hope this qualifies
User name: clubbin09
CPU Model: 7700K
Base Clock: 100Mhz
Core Multiplier: 53
Core Frequency: 5300Mhz
Cache Frequency: 5300Mhz
Vcore in UEFI: 1.360V
Vcore: 1.376V
FCLK: 1000Mhz
Cooling Solution: Custom Loop
Stability Test: OCCT 4.5.1 1 Hour Large Data Set

Batch Number: Vietnam X653B247
Ram Speed: G.Skill Trident Z RGB GS-F4-3200C16Q-32GTZR 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4, 3200MHz, 16-18-18-38-2N, 1.35v
Ram Voltage: 1.35V
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Formula
LLC Setting: 5
Misc Comments: Ambient temp 20 degrees C. non Delidded, fresh windows , reset bois


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Accepted









TCO


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> It's been ages since I've popped in here, thought I'd come and share the final photos of my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos in the build log as usual.


Wow what an amazing build I wish I had the time to set aside to build a masterpiece like that








Looks like a true alchemist's computer until you see that plastic tube.... other than that it is perfect









Thank you for sharing I apprecieate it


----------



## dwolvin

I even like the plastic- think of it as a glass decanter pressure bypass...


----------



## muzammil84

slowly getting there:




build log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1635462/build-log-scratch-sponsored-minimal-by-likwid-mods


----------



## slax0r

Updated my loop again a bit. Added the graphics card under water, even when I wouldn't need to. But...had to.












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Sorry for the crappy image quality. Will do better next time.









One question though, the blacklight, emits quite a bit of purple, would it shine any less bright if I added a resistor, and still have the UV glow from the coolant? If so, what kind of resistor?


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## orbitalwalsh

finally can take a stab at m first hard tubing build!


----------



## Bartdude

I've just done the same...went through quite a few tubes getting it right! lol


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> I've just done the same...went through quite a few tubes getting it right! lol


looks good, any leaks?


----------



## nanotm

I love the way hard line looks but I'm so cack handed I would stick to flexi pipe.... your way braver than I am XD

oh and yeah it looks nice


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> finally can take a stab at m first hard tubing build!


Which Parvum is that?

Also guessing you have plans to clean up the cables since you're still in the process of building


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Which Parvum is that?
> 
> Also guessing you have plans to clean up the cables since you're still in the process of building


m 1.0 case - but tweaked - mobo moved up to allow rad at the bottom - bottom panel with 2 fans. Front panel fans moved close to the midwall . PSU moved to the top - although looking at it now could of been left at the bottom. and a 2 part midwall to allow a transparent mother board tray


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> looks good, any leaks?


Thx ? No none thankfully ? watched a lot of Utube b4 I tried my 1st bend. Its not perfect in a few places but until i do a flush im happy with it for my 1st try ?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> I've just done the same...went through quite a few tubes getting it right! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice.

oh?


Spoiler: peek a boo!






whats that little guy doing and any more? where?


----------



## garyd9

Here's a nice visual indicator that my water temps might be getting too warm:






(LED's embedded in my reservoir.)


----------



## muzammil84




----------



## Jameswalt1

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*






Lovely aesthetic


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Here's a nice visual indicator that my water temps might be getting too warm:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (LED's embedded in my reservoir.)


I would freak out seeing that.


----------



## chibi

Man nothing kills the mood quite like stripping a GPU down naked, only to find the waterblock hardware is for the EVO Supremacy LOL









@akira749 - Please come to my aid, is there anywhere I can get a replacement mounting kit for in a hurry?


----------



## Mega Man

whoops. Lol. At least Ek will get you taken care of

http://www.overclock.net/t/1638512/vortez-project-gold-rush-severely-damaged-following-computex-2017-alphacool-to-blame#post_26348937

Alpha cool destroyed gold rush according to the modder. At this point i believe him and i hope he has an email stating alphacooling is at fault

I felt like this needed to have the word spread. Alphacool, never again


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Man nothing kills the mood quite like stripping a GPU down naked, only to find the waterblock hardware is for the EVO Supremacy LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @akira749 - Please come to my aid, is there anywhere I can get a replacement mounting kit for in a hurry?


What model is that? that is a super nice PCB for AIO modding.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> What model is that? that is a super nice PCB for AIO modding.


His sig says it's the EVGA 1080Ti SC with the new ICX cooling.


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> very nice.
> 
> oh?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: peek a boo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whats that little guy doing and any more? where?


Case sensor for ambient case temp, I have an Aquaero 6xt for controlling fans etc along with an mps 400 flow meter which gives me the ambient water temp ?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> Case sensor for ambient case temp, I have an Aquaero 6xt for controlling fans etc along with an mps 400 flow meter which gives me the ambient water temp ?


What sort of flow rates at what pump settings are you getting in that loop with the Asus MB block included?


----------



## Bartdude

I have an EK XTOP Revo Duel D5 running at about 3000rpm getting 266lph. If I run them at 100% I get about 355lph


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> What model is that? that is a super nice PCB for AIO modding.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> His sig says it's the EVGA 1080Ti SC with the new ICX cooling.


That's right! EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Gaming. Was a pain to take off the heatsink for sure.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## dwolvin

Those are beautiful. What's the restriction on the CPU blocks?


----------



## looniam

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/4/

http://thermalbench.com/2015/04/03/watercool-heatkiller-iv-pro-cpu-waterblock/5/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Here's a nice visual indicator that my water temps might be getting too warm:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (LED's embedded in my reservoir.)


Diablo rig?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> I've just done the same...went through quite a few tubes getting it right! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very nice.
> 
> oh?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: peek a boo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whats that little guy doing and any more? where?
Click to expand...

That is likely in there for ambient case temp reading.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trestles126




----------



## bobfig

got my waterblock the other day. thinking on putting it in some time this weekend.


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> got my waterblock the other day. thinking on putting it in some time this weekend.


That is a sweet block, so upset I missed out on purchasing one.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> got my waterblock the other day. thinking on putting it in some time this weekend.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a really beautiful block!! Please let us know how it performs and thoughts on it.


----------



## bobfig

not the best pic or overclock but here it is installed. also delided the 6700 at the same time. over all seems like the temps wend down like 8ºc but most of that may of been the delid. i think i need to fix my delid because i have a good 8-11º differance between the high core and low core temp but nothing else major.


----------



## Jyve

This could be a dumb question but here it goes anyway.

I'm THINKING of going hardline and there's a post on my local OfferUp that has fittings and tubing for a good price.

My question:will my current ek soft tubing angled adapters work with ek's rigid fittings?

I'm guessing they do but....


----------



## youngjnr

Work in progress









Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pn5JPyybj

https://postimages.org/

Back on soft tubing again in the Define C TG.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> This could be a dumb question but here it goes anyway.
> 
> I'm THINKING of going hardline and there's a post on my local OfferUp that has fittings and tubing for a good price.
> 
> My question:will my current ek soft tubing angled adapters work with ek's rigid fittings?
> 
> I'm guessing they do but....


All G1/4 angle fittings work with Hardline tubing. You simply need Hardline fittings to mate with them. You can't use flex tube compression/barb fittings but so long as you have Hardline compression fittings you are good.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> All G1/4 angle fittings work with Hardline tubing. You simply need Hardline fittings to mate with them. You can't use flex tube compression/barb fittings but so long as you have Hardline compression fittings you are good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's what I figured. Thanks.


----------



## l3eans

Recently found my box of old watercooling parts from 2012 and decided to set up a simple loop.
Hopefully the 1070ti comes soon so I can replace my puny RX 480


----------



## Ceadderman

Shuda got XFX 8GB OC card. It's a great gaming card.









Although I hadda revert to Air for my Dell system. Swapped it back yesterday. I learnt something about Thermal Grizzly(or at least my tube), it sux. I got it back in April and when I used it I noticed it was rather difficult to apply from the tube. But I hamfisted it enough to get it out and onto my 480. I spread it and it seemed fine but when I swapped back to Air the stuff was the consistency of hardening baby poo. When I went to reapply to the GPU, no dice. I ended up using a tube of Ektotherm that I've had sitting on the shelf for nigh over 2 years.









If this is the quality of TG paste, I will stick with Ektotherm or G751 because while Hydronaut keeps my 4790 reasonably chilly (40c while browsing on craptastic Stock Dell cooling) it simply doesn't fit my idea of usability past 1 application. I've kept it closed tightly and in the ziploc product baggie.

Maybe I just got a bad tube?









~Ceadder


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shuda got XFX 8GB OC card. It's a great gaming card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I hadda revert to Air for my Dell system. Swapped it back yesterday. I learnt something about Thermal Grizzly(or at least my tube), it sux. I got it back in April and when I used it I noticed it was rather difficult to apply from the tube. But I hamfisted it enough to get it out and onto my 480. I spread it and it seemed fine but when I swapped back to Air the stuff was the consistency of hardening baby poo. When I went to reapply to the GPU, no dice. I ended up using a tube of Ektotherm that I've had sitting on the shelf for nigh over 2 years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this is the quality of TG paste, I will stick with Ektotherm or G751 because while Hydronaut keeps my 4790 reasonably chilly (40c while browsing on craptastic Stock Dell cooling) it simply doesn't fit my idea of usability past 1 application. I've kept it closed tightly and in the ziploc product baggie.
> 
> Maybe I just got a bad tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My TG Kryonaut is still fine, I've been using it for more than a year on my PC and several other PC's that I've built for friends.

I've got a 5gr tube.

It's easy to apply, but I don't use the squeegee brush thing, just a blob in the middle and the temps are great.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Shuda got XFX 8GB OC card. It's a great gaming card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I hadda revert to Air for my Dell system. Swapped it back yesterday. I learnt something about Thermal Grizzly(or at least my tube), it sux. I got it back in April and when I used it I noticed it was rather difficult to apply from the tube. But I hamfisted it enough to get it out and onto my 480. I spread it and it seemed fine but when I swapped back to Air the stuff was the consistency of hardening baby poo. When I went to reapply to the GPU, no dice. I ended up using a tube of Ektotherm that I've had sitting on the shelf for nigh over 2 years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this is the quality of TG paste, I will stick with Ektotherm or G751 because while Hydronaut keeps my 4790 reasonably chilly (40c while browsing on craptastic Stock Dell cooling) it simply doesn't fit my idea of usability past 1 application. I've kept it closed tightly and in the ziploc product baggie.
> 
> Maybe I just got a bad tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My TG Kryonaut is still fine, I've been using it for more than a year on my PC and several other PC's that I've built for friends.
> 
> I've got a 5gr tube.
> 
> It's easy to apply, but I don't use the squeegee brush thing, just a blob in the middle and the temps are great.
Click to expand...

I got the 3gr/ml tube of Hydronaut. Used the spatula and tried without. It's the same no matter what I do. So I will chalk this up to receiving a bad tube of TG and contact them to see what if anything I can do.









~Ceadder


----------



## denstieg

@derickwm

I get some sirious Dalek/Time Lord vibes off your magnificent build, like its a steampunk Tardis.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I got the 3gr/ml tube of Hydronaut. Used the spatula and tried without. It's the same no matter what I do. So I will chalk this up to receiving a bad tube of TG and contact them to see what if anything I can do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Seems you got a bad batch indeed. Hopefully you can get a refund or a new tube.


----------



## muzammil84

project *minimAl* 85% done:






more pics in build log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1635462/build-log-scratch-sponsored-minimal-by-likwid-mods


----------



## D13mass

Hi guys!

Who can help me, now I have D5 pump and top EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Acetal and think maybe upgrade top to this one Watercool HEATKILLER® D5-TOP . What is the difference between both tops ? Can I see in noise level or other parameters?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Who can help me, now I have D5 pump and top EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Acetal and think maybe upgrade top to this one Watercool HEATKILLER® D5-TOP . What is the difference between both tops ? Can I see in noise level or other parameters?


If I were to guess, they probably perform very similarly if not identically. The closest thing I can think of off hand is this image that xtremerigs produced when testing the EK dual D5 topxtremerigs. In the dual pump configurations the top seems to make a much larger impact. Given how well EK did, I would have to say that their claims of improved performance over the stock D5 top are true.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> project *minimAl* 85% done:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics in build log:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1635462/build-log-scratch-sponsored-minimal-by-likwid-mods


wow muz...very nice work


----------



## Anoxy

So I misplaced my 780 stock coolers when I moved abroad....do you guys think it's fine to store them with their EK waterblocks attached? I rinsed them out with distilled.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So I misplaced my 780 stock coolers when I moved abroad....do you guys think it's fine to store them with their EK waterblocks attached? I rinsed them out with distilled.


Yes. Just watch out for the PCI-e part of the card.

TCO


----------



## Ricwin

Is anyone aware of any full covers or GPU blocks compatible with an MSI 480 Gaming X?
Only thing really stopping me from custom water cooling is the GPU: placing a pump/res in the front of the S340 will stifle what little air reaches the graphics card.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricwin*
> 
> Is anyone aware of any full covers or GPU blocks compatible with an MSI 480 Gaming X?
> Only thing really stopping me from custom water cooling is the GPU: placing a pump/res in the front of the S340 will stifle what little air reaches the graphics card.


Seems like this Alphacool block is the only one that's compatible.
https://www.alphacool.com/shop/grafikkartenkuehler/ati-fullsize/21720/alphacool-nexxxos-gpx-ati-r9-480-m03-mit-backplate-schwarz?c=20584


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry, that's not a full block, Thats a heat sink


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry, that's not a block, Thats a heat sink


What are you on about? That is a GPU waterblock. Alphacool doesn't make GPU heatsinks.


----------



## Mega Man

No it uses a universal block on the die. The card uses a universal heatsink


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No it uses a universal block on the die. The card uses a universal heatsink


Universal block or not the die is still watercooled.


----------



## Ricwin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Seems like this Alphacool block is the only one that's compatible.
> https://www.alphacool.com/shop/grafikkartenkuehler/ati-fullsize/21720/alphacool-nexxxos-gpx-ati-r9-480-m03-mit-backplate-schwarz?c=20584


Awesome thanks


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No it uses a universal block on the die. The card uses a universal heatsink


Well, technically its not that simple, as the block also makes contact with the heatsink, so technically the heatsink is both air an water cooled. I still wouldn't call it a true full cover block, but more of a hybrid solution.


----------



## Mega Man

The heatsink is a solo product, that has no contact with the water.

It is just a heatsink. You tend to have very poor (high) vrm and memory temps due to this.

Some of my video cards would never of Tran or lasted at stock or like this


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The heatsink is a solo product, that has no contact with the water.


Well, that's where you're wrong, the heatsink does, albeit indirectly, make contact with the water. That universal block has 2 coldplates, one for the heatsink and one for the GPU die. I'd assume this will help with VRAM temps more than VRM because of the location, but its there regardless.

And judging from reviews, VRM temps seem to be acceptable, sitting some where between your average air cooler and full cover block. I'm not saying this is a great solution, but it doesn't seem to be a particularly bad one either.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The heatsink is a solo product, *that has no contact with the water*.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that's where you're wrong, the heatsink does, albeit *indirectly*, make contact with the water. That universal block has 2 coldplates, one for the heatsink and one for the GPU die. I'd assume this will help with VRAM temps more than VRM because of the location, but its there regardless.
> 
> And judging from reviews, VRM temps seem to be acceptable, sitting some where between your average air cooler and full cover block. I'm not saying this is a great solution, but it doesn't seem to be a particularly bad one either.
Click to expand...

so i am wrong, because i am right ? it does not contact the water

lets explore the word contact
Quote:


> Definition of contact
> 1 a :union or junction of surfaces
> 
> Cooling begins when the lava makes contact with the air.
> 
> b :the apparent touching or mutual tangency of the limbs of two celestial bodies or of the disk of one body with the shadow of another during an eclipse, transit, or occultation
> c (1) :the junction of two electrical conductors through which a current passes
> (2) :a special part made for such a junction
> 
> The camera's flash wasn't working because the electrical contacts needed to be cleaned.
> 
> 2 a :association, relationship
> 
> students and teachers in daily contact
> 
> b :connection, communication
> 
> I lost contact with her years ago.
> 
> c :an establishing of communication with someone or an observing or receiving of a significant signal from a person or object
> 
> radar contact with Mars
> 
> 3 :a person serving as a go-between, messenger, connection, or source of special information
> 
> business contacts
> 
> 4 :contact lens
> 
> She wears contacts more often than glasses.


that is merriam webster's definition

the google definition which is simpler
Quote:


> con·tact
> noun
> noun: contact
> ˈkänˌtakt/
> 
> 1.
> _*the state or condition of physical touching.*_
> "the tennis ball is in contact with the court surface for as little as 5 milliseconds"
> synonyms: touch, touching; More
> proximity, exposure
> "a disease transmitted through casual contact"
> the state or condition of communicating or meeting.
> "Lewis and Clark came into contact with numerous river tribes"
> synonyms: communication, correspondence, touch; More
> association, connection, intercourse, relations, dealings;
> archaictraffic
> "foreign diplomats were asked to avoid all contact with him"
> activated by or operating through physical touch.
> modifier noun: contact
> "contact dermatitis"
> a connection for the passage of an electric current from one thing to another, or a part or device by which such a connection is made.
> plural noun: contacts
> "a one-way electrical contact between a metal and a semiconductor"
> contact lenses.
> plural noun: contacts
> 2.
> a meeting, communication, or relationship with someone.
> "they have forged contacts with key people in business"
> a person who may be communicated with for information or assistance, especially with regard to one's job.
> "Francie had good contacts"
> synonyms: connection, acquaintance, associate, friend
> "he had many contacts in Germany"
> a person who has associated with a patient with a contagious disease (and so may carry the infection).


there is absolutely NO junction/union/contact of water and aluminum heatsink

a full block for a gpu has WATER contacting a metal that is in contact of the heat source.
by definition contact is direct.


----------



## Chaoz

Well technically the die is watercooled actively, so it's not a complete heatsink, there for, it's a hybrid. With a fan blowing directly over it, it should be fine.


----------



## Mega Man

so it has a universal waterblock. with a heatsink on the rest of the card.

evga can spin it as " hybrid"
marketing jargon
ill call it a universal block because that is exactly what it is


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so it has a universal waterblock. with a heatsink on the rest of the card.
> 
> evga can spin it as " hybrid"
> marketing jargon
> ill call it a universal block because that is exactly what it is


Universal or not, you have to admit that the die is actively cooled,which makes the GPU watercooled.
So only the around the die is passively cooled.

So lets just cal it a Hybrid with active and passive cooling.
Don't know why you're making it so difficult.


----------



## Mega Man

it is no different then zip tying a CLC on to a gpu.

is a universal water block watercooling? yes i never said it was not.

i said it was a universal waterblock strapped to a heat sink and not a full cover water block

i dont understand what is so hard for you to understand


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Finished my first custom loop a few weeks ago. I went with the EK-KIT L360 kit for now. Already upgraded the top to have a port and put a check valve on there. It would look better but I had to remove the NB/SB block because it leaks when under pressure. Poor quality block and an old dried out o-ring don't mix too well. Nothing damaged.

I have a GPU block and a different NB block, but my CPU was reaching about 80C when under full load at 4.7Ghz, so I doubt it could cool the GPU too. I'm sure this will change once winter comes, over 30C ambient isn't helping. The radiator gets hot pretty quickly and the CPU when OC'd draws over 250W (tested with a kilowatt) so I need more rad space. I'm also being lazy about refilling the loop, not that it takes long.

*Currently Installed:*

*CPU:* EK-Supremacy MX
*Radiator:* EK-CoolStream PE 360
*Pump:* EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM
*Mosfets:* Bitspower EI58DP
*Parts to Install:*

*NB Block:* Watercool HEATKILLER® NSB Rev3.0 LT
*GPU Block:* Bitspower BP-WBV1080G1-RGB
*Radiator:* Slim 140 or 240 and slim fans. Undecided.
Current Build (Sorry about the blur hands are bit shaky):




Leak testing the bad NB/SB block. Looks so much better










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Also, EK needs to update their instructions. I don't see how this would work with just the SATA power:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is no different then zip tying a CLC on to a gpu.
> 
> is a universal water block watercooling? yes i never said it was not.
> 
> i said it was a universal waterblock strapped to a heat sink and not a full cover water block
> 
> i dont understand what is so hard for you to understand


But I never said it was a full cover block. Just said it was a waterblock and you argued that it wasn't a waterblock.

In case you can't remember it was your first comment after I posted that block. This one:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry, that's not a block, Thats a heat sink


----------



## Mega Man

your right, my mistake i thought i said full block, totally my fault ! ill edit it


----------



## taowulf

The real issue with that cooling solution is the heatsink is just ugly.


----------



## Streetdragon

It looks not so bad. but it needs a good fan over the heatsink, so the vrm wont burn with higher oc. And the termal pads are crap that are with the waterblock/heatsink/universal block.

With my r9 390 (x2) i had problems with higher voltages. GPU got cooled nicely but the vrm.... still better than the stock cooler(sapphire nitro) but it could be better


----------



## Mega Man

I really don't understand why alphacool started to do that (i get lowering costs) they used to make decent full blocks. But now, ew. And why couldn't they continue to produce full water blocks along side this....


----------



## ruffhi

27 new posts in the cooling club and picture gallery ... yay ... lets look at some computer glitz.

No ... 20 posts arguing about contact, heat sink and block without a picture in there. scroll scroll scroll


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> 27 new posts in the cooling club and picture gallery ... yay ... lets look at some computer glitz.
> 
> No ... 20 posts arguing about contact, heat sink and block without a picture in there. *scroll scroll scroll*


Correct.

TCO


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> 27 new posts in the cooling club and picture gallery ... yay ... lets look at some computer glitz.
> 
> No ... 20 posts arguing about contact, heat sink and block without a picture in there. scroll scroll scroll


Let mw help you with that.


----------



## VeritronX

Here's a pic from the last build I did in my TJ07 back in 2012.. is that before hardline was a thing? I certainly didn't know about it if it was..


----------



## GroinShooter

Anyone experimented with Nanoxia CF1 Opaque White coolant? Can't find much user reports on this exact Nanoxia fluid, seems pretty new as I don't remember seeing it listed the last time I stocked myself with coolants. As no other pastel white coolants seem to be in stock I just ordered 2 liters of this stuff. I've been using EK's and Nanoxia's clear fluids and everything's been running clean on both. As I've never experimented with the pastel/Opaque colored liquids is there any *real* difference, other than color







, in comparison clear pre-mixes/distilled water?

https://www.nanoxiausa.com/products/cf-no-1-opaque-white-pc-coolant?variant=42087435079

http://nanoxia-world.com/en/products/coolforce/cooling-fluids-pro-opaque/404/cf-no.1-opaque-white-uv?c=63


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is no different then zip tying a CLC on to a gpu.
> 
> is a universal water block watercooling? yes i never said it was not.
> 
> i said it was a universal waterblock strapped to a heat sink and not a full cover water block
> 
> i dont understand what is so hard for you to understand


I probably spent more on my Thermospheres and Swiftech heatsinks for my 6870s. So far as I am concerned, while not as exact in terminological wording, my cards are watercooled. So I got no allusions when I consider that EVGA top a "hybrid" Waterblock.









$79x2
$28x2
Adaptive milling process to fit the Thermospheres in offbrand Heatsinks. Shipping alone was $35 for both.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Here's a pic from the last build I did in my TJ07 back in 2012.. is that before hardline was a thing? I certainly didn't know about it if it was..


You're not wrong. 2012 was before Hardline actually became a "thing".









~Ceadder


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Its not pretty but... here is my updated gaming machine...






Thoughts? Yes, my painting skills need practice


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> 27 new posts in the cooling club and picture gallery ... yay ... lets look at some computer glitz.
> 
> No ... 20 posts arguing about contact, heat sink and block without a picture in there. scroll scroll scroll


i understand and not faulting your POV but having watercooled for ~year; i find some of the arguments/discussions/whatnot pretty informative _if not highly entertaining_ at times.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> Its not pretty but... here is my updated gaming machine...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts? Yes, my painting skills need practice


Blue tubing (or blue dye) would help tie things together. Otherwise I think the paint is actually pretty decent.

That, and you should paint the IO bracket on the GPU blue as well if at all possible. It's a pet peeve of mine when IO brackets don't match slot covers, so I might be the only one that feels that way.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> Its not pretty but... here is my updated gaming machine...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts? Yes, my painting skills need practice
> 
> 
> 
> Blue tubing (or blue dye) would help tie things together. Otherwise I think the paint is actually pretty decent.
> 
> That, and you should paint the IO bracket on the GPU blue as well if at all possible. It's a pet peeve of mine when IO brackets don't match slot covers, so I might be the only one that feels that way.
Click to expand...

Fluid is clear/ uv blue, im planning on replacing ram with blue sticks ( im hesitant to attempt to paint current sticks. Finally, when i get my hands on that caselabs sm8 case, i will be matching all pci brackets... had a lot of fun blowing steam and painting my rig... might just disassemble and re work it next week on vacation... not certain yet.

Anyone have much luck painting ram?


----------



## SauronTheGreat

What makes the res all foggy like this?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> What makes the res all foggy like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Condensation, fill it more and you won't see it.


----------



## Jyve

Since we're on the topic of reservoirs. My ek res is nearly full. Now when the systems been off for a bit of time the res is filled nearly to the top. Turn it on and ran for a bit and it drops about a half inch or so.

My question. Is this indicative of air still trapped in the loop or is this normal and coolant is just settling back in the res?

As a follow up, while it's the half inch or so lower, can I top it off? How will this effect it and the loop when the rig is off again and coolant settles back?

Should I not even worry about it and stop letting my ocd get the better of me?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Since we're on the topic of reservoirs. My ek res is nearly full. Now when the systems been off for a bit of time the res is filled nearly to the top. Turn it on and ran for a bit and it drops about a half inch or so.
> 
> My question. Is this indicative of air still trapped in the loop or is this normal and coolant is just settling back in the res?
> 
> As a follow up, while it's the half inch or so lower, can I top it off? How will this effect it and the loop when the rig is off again and coolant settles back?
> 
> Should I not even worry about it and stop letting my ocd get the better of me?


Seems you still have trapped air bubble somewhere. Mine doesn't do that at all I got it filled to the top and it stays there.

Try tilting the case around, maybe you can get the bubble out.


----------



## Jyve

Thx. I'll give that a go.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> Its not pretty but... here is my updated gaming machine...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts? Yes, my painting skills need practice


You can fit a 360 rad and a 420 rad in that case, I think I have the same case, fractal design define s?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Since we're on the topic of reservoirs. My ek res is nearly full. Now when the systems been off for a bit of time the res is filled nearly to the top. Turn it on and ran for a bit and it drops about a half inch or so.
> 
> My question. Is this indicative of air still trapped in the loop or is this normal and coolant is just settling back in the res?
> 
> As a follow up, while it's the half inch or so lower, can I top it off? How will this effect it and the loop when the rig is off again and coolant settles back?
> 
> Should I not even worry about it and stop letting my ocd get the better of me?


Can we see pics of your set up?


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Nope, Define S no 480 support, and its moot, im getting the CaseLabs SM8 in a couple months ... that will be my next project.

Im thinking a minion themed build... not certain how I will work mods if any.

edit* correction, the 480 would fit up top... my bad


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> Nope, Define S no 480 support, and its moot, im getting the CaseLabs SM8 in a couple months ... that will be my next project.
> 
> Im thinking a minion themed build... not certain how I will work mods if any.
> 
> edit* correction, the 480 would fit up top... my bad


The Caselabs SM8 is a nice case. Always wanted one but they were never in-stock. or took +10 weeks to process and fulfill my order, which was way too long.
When they finally were in stock I've already finished my build and got a Hex Gear R80 instead.

Well someday, I guess ...


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

I will order, when it comes, I will build a Minion Machine, and it will be glorious!


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can we see pics of your set up?


I don't have any shots of it 100% finished and filled but this is it almost complete.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So if price is no issue what are the quietest best rad fans?

Thanks







.


----------



## Bartdude

IMO http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-550-1850rpm-58cfm-black-edition-pwm.html

or one if its variants


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So if price is no issue what are the quietest best rad fans?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


be quiet! Silent Wings 3


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Condensation? It's hard to see from that picture but I presume you're referring to the airspace not the water/fluid? If so it's the same as with a half-full bottle of water, etc. The difference in temperature/pressure inside the res vs. outside (ambient) causes condensation - just like sweat on the outside of a cold glass in a warm room.

EDIT- LOL didn't realize it was a day old post with an answer already.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> IMO http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-550-1850rpm-58cfm-black-edition-pwm.html
> 
> or one if its variants


This.


----------



## Juthos




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those fans frame/bodyless?!?









~Ceadder


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are those fans frame/bodyless?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


YEP. More details here.


----------



## dwolvin

Wow. Those cases are so very nice. And more expensive than my entire (original) hexcore system.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> IMO http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-550-1850rpm-58cfm-black-edition-pwm.html
> 
> or one if its variants


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> be quiet! Silent Wings 3


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> This.


Thanks I'll have a look.

Any others? I've seen the Noctua NF-F12 and Corsair ML120 are pretty popular, I know the ML120 are pretty loud though.


----------



## iamjanco

If you go with BeQuiet SW3s (or SW2s for that matter), be sure to note that there can caveats using their *PWM* versions, depending on the controller used with them. For instance, to use them with AquaComputer's AQ5 or AQ6, you'll need to add what's called the Diva Mod to each channel in order for PWM to function properly. Both the issue and the mod are *well documented here at ocn*.

No problem using voltage controlled versions of the SW3s with those controllers in combination with AquaComputer's Poweradjusts.

You may also wish to search the forums here about the frame used with the SW3, as the way the fan's frame is designed may not appeal to you.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> If you go with BeQuiet SW3s (or SW2s for that matter), be sure to note that there can caveats using their *PWM* versions, depending on the controller used with them. For instance, to use them with AquaComputer's AQ5 or AQ6, you'll need to add what's called the Diva Mod to each channel in order for PWM to function properly. Both the issue and the mod are *well documented here at ocn*.
> 
> No problem using voltage controlled versions of the SW3s with those controllers in combination with AquaComputer's Poweradjusts.
> 
> You may also wish to search the forums here about the frame used with the SW3, as the way the fan's frame is designed may not appeal to you.


Should have mentioned for now I'd be using it with my H100i / motherboard until the EK MLC comes out if it ever does lol then use whatever the MLC comes with.

The design of the SW3 doesn't look to bad so that's not a problem.


----------



## KCDC

Swapped my non-pro ML140 fans for Noctua A14 PWMs night-and-day difference, silent at sub 1000 RPM. Audible from 1000-1500, but not horrible. 8 fans total. Tower is on my desk 2 feet away from me. The BeQuiets mentioned were slightly more expensive x8 or I'd have gone with them as they are slightly more quiet.


----------



## Triniboi82

Rebuilt my rig, keeping it simple.


----------



## LastRages

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Rebuilt my rig, keeping it simple.


Nice.







I need to get back into the realm of water cooling.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Narrowed my choice down to the Nf-F12 or NF-F12 Industrial 2000RPM.

The SW3 don't seem to bad but they don't push a massive amount of air and for me that could be a bit of a problem because my room gets hot so I need a decent air flow. What I'm thinking is the NF-F12's for the rad and the Industrial ones for the case, I already have 3 Industrial ones in my NAS and at 1100RPM there pretty quite while pushing a decent amount of air, they also don't look like literal crap







.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all









Random question

1) Apart from AlieExpress, is there anywhere else that feels a little more "reliable" that I can purchase Barrow fittings from ?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Apart from AlieExpress, is there anywhere else that feels a little more "reliable" that I can purchase Barrow fittings from ?


*ModMyMods* (they do ship International)

Though that's in the U.S. You might also try European vendors.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Narrowed my choice down to the Nf-F12 or NF-F12 Industrial 2000RPM.
> 
> The SW3 don't seem to bad but they don't push a massive amount of air and for me that could be a bit of a problem because my room gets hot so I need a decent air flow. What I'm thinking is the NF-F12's for the rad and the Industrial ones for the case, I already have 3 Industrial ones in my NAS and at 1100RPM there pretty quite while pushing a decent amount of air, they also don't look like literal crap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, the F12 Industrial is a good fan. I'm using them on my test station. A bit loud at higher rpms, but they move a lot of air; and at lower RPMs they're certainly tolerable.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> IMO http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-550-1850rpm-58cfm-black-edition-pwm.html
> 
> or one if its variants
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> be quiet! Silent Wings 3
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> This.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks I'll have a look.
> 
> Any others? I've seen the Noctua NF-F12 and Corsair ML120 are pretty popular, I know the ML120 are pretty loud though.
Click to expand...

My ML's are dead quiet sub 1000.

http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/12/corsair-ml120-pro-120-mm-fan/3/


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> *ModMyMods* (they do ship International)
> 
> Though that's in the U.S. You might also try European vendors.


Thanks very much man ...







... Will definitely check them out

*
::: EDIT :::

*
Do you maybe have a link to any UK vendors ? ... Search engines are blocked at work so I have no way of checking for them ... haha


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardheadedMurphy*
> 
> Nope, Define S no 480 support, and its moot, im getting the CaseLabs SM8 in a couple months ... that will be my next project.
> 
> Im thinking a minion themed build... not certain how I will work mods if any.
> 
> edit* correction, the 480 would fit up top... my bad


Welcome to the family and congrats


----------



## rikkiepc




----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean and nice! I'm one of the few, but I think there are times when the bulk-sleeved OEM wiring looks cleaner and nicer than single-sleeved setups... your system is proof of this I think.


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Very clean and nice! I'm one of the few, but I think there are times when the bulk-sleeved OEM wiring looks cleaner and nicer than single-sleeved setups... your system is proof of this I think.


Thank you!
I like to keep it simple and industrial looking, so single sleeved wiring wouldnt fit in this build. Makes it look gimmicky I think.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Narrowed my choice down to the Nf-F12 or NF-F12 Industrial 2000RPM.
> 
> The SW3 don't seem to bad but they don't push a massive amount of air and for me that could be a bit of a problem because my room gets hot so I need a decent air flow. What I'm thinking is the NF-F12's for the rad and the Industrial ones for the case, I already have 3 Industrial ones in my NAS and at 1100RPM there pretty quite while pushing a decent amount of air, they also don't look like literal crap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ehhhh, the HS SW3's push more air than the NF-F12 IPPC's and do so more quietly.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Narrowed my choice down to the Nf-F12 or NF-F12 Industrial 2000RPM.
> 
> The SW3 don't seem to bad but they don't push a massive amount of air and for me that could be a bit of a problem because my room gets hot so I need a decent air flow. What I'm thinking is the NF-F12's for the rad and the Industrial ones for the case, I already have 3 Industrial ones in my NAS and at 1100RPM there pretty quite while pushing a decent amount of air, they also don't look like literal crap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


SW3 push decent amount of air but there are gaps around the fan which will not cool certain sections of the radiator. It's why I went with Corsair ML Pro's with my build (Best all around radiator fan in my opinion, You get very quiet fans plus allot of CFM. Plus no motor noise due to Magnetic Levitation technology).


----------



## GroinShooter

Hmm, yesterday I swapped my EK clear fluid to Nanoxia Opaque White coolant and my temps jumped up significantly. I've now spent whole Sunday taking my loop apart and flushing my CPU block, res+pump combo and rad thoroughly. Put everything back together and the problem persists. I've shaken and tilted the whole rig around and managed to get all air pockets out of the system, at least I think so. Any idea as to why this is happening? I even took my delidded 6700K out of my system, gave it a nice cleaning and a fresh layer of Coollabs Liquid Pro. Can the coolant really be this bad? My load temps before were max 52 on CPU and now it bumps up to over 70








I'm probably going to order a few liters of the new EK coolant first thing tomorrow and give up on this white stuff.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Ehhhh, the HS SW3's push more air than the NF-F12 IPPC's and do so more quietly.


I wouldn't be using the IPPC's for the rad I'd use it for the case and the normal NF-F12 for the rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> SW3 push decent amount of air but there are gaps around the fan which will not cool certain sections of the radiator. It's why I went with Corsair ML Pro's with my build (Best all around radiator fan in my opinion, You get very quiet fans plus allot of CFM. Plus no motor noise due to Magnetic Levitation technology).


Don't the ML120's get pretty loud if you have them running over 1200 - 1400 RPM, which depending on summer temps I may have to.

Thanks.


----------



## OSiRiSNZ

Got milk?

EKWB loop with Bitspower fittings
CPU: Intel 4790K @ 5.2 GHz
GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
RAM: 32GB Kingston Hyper X


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> Thank you!
> I like to keep it simple and *industrial looking*, so single sleeved wiring wouldnt fit in this build. Makes it look gimmicky I think.


Well, an argument could be made both ways on that front...










But regardless I like your build.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks very much man ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Will definitely check them out
> 
> *
> ::: EDIT :::
> 
> *
> Do you maybe have a link to any UK vendors ? ... Search engines are blocked at work so I have no way of checking for them ... haha


Try this vendor over on eBay, its UK vendor

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/mizucooling/Other-Fittings-/_i.html?_dmd=2&_fsub=8347385013&_sid=267273683&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322&_vc=1

I usually buying Barrow fittings from him and shipping is very fast and most of the fittings he have in stock for intermediate dispatch

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I wouldn't be using the IPPC's for the rad I'd use it for the case and the normal NF-F12 for the rad.
> Don't the ML120's get pretty loud if you have them running over 1200 - 1400 RPM, which depending on summer temps I may have to.
> 
> Thanks.


Nope, I had mine at 1300 before I couldn't hear them unless I open the case up & get near the fan.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Nope, I had mine at 1300 before I couldn't hear them unless I open the case up & get near the fan.


the non-pro MLs are audible after 900rpm


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> the non-pro MLs are audible after 900rpm


Not sure why you had to specific non-pro in there, as the only difference is the color scheme and lack of rubber pads. Unless you had some vibrations, it should not be any different.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Installed the north bridge and GTX 1080 block:


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not sure why you had to specific non-pro in there, as the only difference is the color scheme and lack of rubber pads. Unless you had some vibrations, it should not be any different.


They're less expensive. So the pros are priced higher for rubber pads only, not an improvement in dB? Why so much more for them?

Just giving info based on what I've owned, which were the non-pro ML140s being loud above 900. Wasn't an attack. Just thought the Pros were better in more ways than just pads.


----------



## iamjanco

The Pros also have leds, if you're into that sort of thing.


----------



## KCDC

Huh, thought they had other improvements. GTK.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> the non-pro MLs are audible after 900rpm


I'm up to 1400 right now and I still don't hear them.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Whats loud to you may not be loud to others. Also some peoples ears are more sensitive to certain tones and notes that others may not even notice.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> They're less expensive. So the pros are priced higher for rubber pads only, not an improvement in dB? Why so much more for them?
> 
> Just giving info based on what I've owned, which were the non-pro ML140s being loud above 900. Wasn't an attack. Just thought the Pros were better in more ways than just pads.


You don't have to justify yourself, it wasn't taken as an attack









I just wanted to clear it up in case others saw it and got confused too.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Whats loud to you may not be loud to others. Also some peoples ears are more sensitive to certain tones and notes that others may not even notice.


I can't comment on others. I will say this I'm very sensitive when it comes to sounds & noise.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Kinda why I don't want the ML, to many people saying there either really quiet or really loud.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Installed the north bridge and GTX 1080 block:


Love seeing more Bitspower gpu blocks. Honestly think they're better looking than the EKs. Don't get me wrong, I do like ek gpu blocks too. Just guess I have a spot for the Bitspower as it was the only one available for my card.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Love seeing more Bitspower gpu blocks. Honestly think they're better looking than the EKs. Don't get me wrong, I do like ek gpu blocks too. Just guess I have a spot for the Bitspower as it was the only one available for my card.


Bitspower blocks let you keep the stock back plate. For that reason alone I think they are superior to the EK blocks.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Bitspower blocks let you keep the stock back plate. For that reason alone I think they are superior to the EK blocks.


Most blocks work with stock back plates, and at most need different screws. The stock backplates that install from the front are incompatbile with all blocks as-is. Nothing to do with a brand necessarily.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Love seeing more Bitspower gpu blocks. Honestly think they're better looking than the EKs. Don't get me wrong, I do like ek gpu blocks too. Just guess I have a spot for the Bitspower as it was the only one available for my card.


For the Gigabyte card I own this was not the case. EK's block was not compatible with the stock back plate. I shouldn't have made a broad generalization as there are a number of cards where EK's block is compatible with the stock back plate.

That said, I've seen bitspower make an effort to point out their blocks are compatible with the stock back plate on more than one occasion. It's helpful to me when making a determination for what card and what block to pick.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Bitspower blocks let you keep the stock back plate. For that reason alone I think they are superior to the EK blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> Most blocks work with stock back plates, and at most need different screws. The stock backplates that install from the front are incompatbile with all blocks as-is. Nothing to do with a brand necessarily.
Click to expand...

Shoot, I wish I could use the stock backplate of my RX480. It's extended past the PCB though. To keep the warranty intact, I won't be cutting it down to make it work with my EK block.









~Ceadder


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Kinda why I don't want the ML, to many people saying there either really quiet or really loud.


Might be helpful to know where their tower is sitting and how many are running at once. My tower is 2 feet away from me on my desk at eye level, and had 8 of them running in unison same RPM. At about 900, I could hear them. I also have tinnitus, haha. My guess is if their towers on the floor and maybe running less of them, then they are relatively silent all the way up. My main point was that the NF14s were a noticeable improvement from the ML140s considering my variables.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Might be helpful to know where their tower is sitting and how many are running at once. My tower is 2 feet away from me on my desk at eye level, and had 8 of them running in unison same RPM. At about 900, I could hear them. I also have tinnitus, haha. My guess is if their towers on the floor and maybe running less of them, then they are relatively silent all the way up. My main point was that the NF14s were a noticeable improvement from the ML140s considering my variables.


Mines under my desk right next to me and I'd be running at most 5 of them, I have open back headphones though so I hear a lot of background noise which is annoying in gaming when fans ramp right up. Seeing I'm using a H100i V2 currently I'll be using the silent profile which makes the fans go to 60% or my own profile which is static fan speed at 40%, 2 fans will be on the H100i and the other 3 will be on the motherboard & controlled by the motherboard.


----------



## youngjnr

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


That is a pretty wicked kink going from the rear exhaust rad to the GPU. The tube looks like it lost a significant amount of calibre. I recommend getting a 45 degree or 90 degree bend there.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


I'm an avid proponent of soft tubing, but fix the kink. It's probably not hurting you too badly, but it can't be helping either.


----------



## sli_shroom

like others said...use a 90 to avoid the kink.

you could also rotate the rad 180 degrees and run longer tubing


----------



## nycgtr

That kink might even lead to a leak if there's enough pressure. If that was thicker tubing that will leak eventually for sure almost.


----------



## sli_shroom

now that i look a little more...ditch the 120mm rad...you have plenty of rad for that setup and the 120 is probably just adding restriction


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I'm an avid proponent of soft tubing, but fix the kink. It's probably not hurting you too badly, but it can't be helping either.


If you rotate that 120 rad 180 degrees, then run longer soft tubing from cpu then to gpu, you'd have no kinks and save a few bucks in fittings. Just a thought.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Apologies for the double post, meant to quote the OP:

If you rotate that 120 rad 180 degrees, then run longer soft tubing from cpu then to gpu, you'd have no kinks and save a few bucks in fittings. Just a thought.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Mines under my desk right next to me and I'd be running at most 5 of them, I have open back headphones though so I hear a lot of background noise which is annoying in gaming when fans ramp right up. Seeing I'm using a H100i V2 currently I'll be using the silent profile which makes the fans go to 60% or my own profile which is static fan speed at 40%, 2 fans will be on the H100i and the other 3 will be on the motherboard & controlled by the motherboard.


You may be fine if the tower is tucked away. Can't say 100%, but maybe the others saying they hear nothing also have their towers tucked away like yourself. It would make sense. Also, I think my case creates a bit of turbulence since there's a perforated piece of metal in between and then a decorative cover (see rig pics). There are quite a few variables when it comes to fan noise.


----------



## youngjnr

Thanks for the tips on how to improve i will try some of the methods suggested to make it fit better

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> You may be fine if the tower is tucked away. Can't say 100%, but maybe the others saying they hear nothing also have their towers tucked away like yourself. It would make sense. Also, I think my case creates a bit of turbulence since there's a perforated piece of metal in between and then a decorative cover (see rig pics). There are quite a few variables when it comes to fan noise.


Hmm, suppose what I can do is buy a couple of fans and try them, if I don't like them I can return them. Cant get Silent Wings from the shop without a restocking fee so it's Ml120 or NF-F12, annoying.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hmm, suppose what I can do is buy a couple of fans and try them, if I don't like them I can return them. Cant get Silent Wings from the shop without a restocking fee so it's Ml120 or NF-F12, annoying.


I've got 8 sitting here, PM me, you can try them out.

EDIT, they're 140mm, forgot you're going 120. Maybe 140s will fit?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Kinda why I don't want the ML, to many people saying there either really quiet or really loud.


I linked you the review for probably the most unbiased honest reviewer on the www's. Definitely take everyone's opinion into consideration but his holds a heck a lot more water imo.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I linked you the review for probably the most unbiased honest reviewer on the www's. Definitely take everyone's opinion into consideration but his holds a heck a lot more water imo.


My 10 MLs are inaudible below 1200RPM but the noise ramps up much much faster after that compared to my 10 EK Vardars. My Vardars are pretty noisy at 2200RPM but the noise profile (a loud whoosh, like a massive amount of air trying to squeeze through a narrow gap) is far more tolerable than the MLs which are more of a motor like roar.

My dBA Iphone sound app records the MLs being 4dBA louder than the Vardars at max speed (makes sense as it is comparing 2400RPM to 2200RPM)


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Gonna try the ML120's and see how they go and more importantly how they sound, if they don't get to noisy I'll keep them but if they do I'll swap them for the NF-F12's. Dunno if they'll be delivered this week or next, typical Australian snail mail







.


----------



## QuantumX

Had my first attempt at hard line tubing. Used boiling water to soften the PETG tubing and do the bends. Had to redo the bends a couple of times and the boiling water allowed me to just straighten the pipe again redo the bend.

CPU: Intel i7-990X
Motherboard: ASUS Rampage III Gene
Case: Cooler Master HAF XB Evo
CPU Block: EK Supremacy EVO Full Nickel
Radiator: Barrow Dabel-A45-240
Pump/Res: XSPC X2O 450
Radiator Fans: 2 x CM Sickleflow X push
Coolant: Mayhems Pastel Red







Clocked the CPU to 4475MHz @ 1.42v and temps were max 65'C with Prime95 Small FFT's. Water temp maxed out on 29'C under load from 23'C on idle.


----------



## SavantStrike

X58. That board is cherry!

How do you like that Barrow radiator?


----------



## QuantumX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> X58. That board is cherry!
> 
> How do you like that Barrow radiator?


It felt a bit light in weight when I first opened it, but it's performing really well and was very clean when I flushed it beforehand. It does not seem very restrictive to airflow either. For the price I think it's really good


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumX*
> 
> It felt a bit light in weight when I first opened it, but it's performing really well and was very clean when I flushed it beforehand. It does not seem very restrictive to airflow either. For the price I think it's really good


That's what I was hoping to hear. I just upgraded to threadripper and went with a Bykski block due to a lack of options and was pleasantly surprised. These Chinese brands are getting a lot better, if they sell compelling rads then I can see them becoming a great option.


----------



## Mega Man

Tempted by then as well. Need to make sure they are not another design stealer, and will look into them, they also have a rep on ocn, but yea ill buy if they don't steal designs like thermal fake, our patent troll like asecrap


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hmm, suppose what I can do is buy a couple of fans and try them, if I don't like them I can return them. Cant get Silent Wings from the shop without a restocking fee so it's Ml120 or NF-F12, annoying.


Silent Wings for some strange reason are harder to obtain over all the other fans out there. NewEgg (US) which is basically BQ webstore in the US. It's very spotty when it comes to stock.

----

Take this how you will but Singularity Computers loves the Corsair ML Pro's. They are picky a hell when it comes to radiator fans.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Tempted by then as well. Need to make sure they are not another design stealer, and will look into them, they also have a rep on ocn, but yea ill buy if they don't steal designs like thermal fake, our patent troll like asecrap


Some of their gear looks very similar to Bitspower gear, but there are design differences (for example the headers and jet plates on GPU blocks). They make some really nice fittings at very reasonable prices. The fittings are the most similar to competitor's designs, but there is only so much you can do with an ell for example.


----------



## Mega Man

Agreed. I have no problem with similar, i have a problem with a copy


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> That's what I was hoping to hear. I just upgraded to threadripper and went with a Bykski block due to a lack of options and was pleasantly surprised. These Chinese brands are getting a lot better, if they sell compelling rads then I can see them becoming a great option.


Isn't everything made in China anyway, when it comes down to it?


----------



## Mega Man

no. eks blocks are made at ek


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no. eks blocks are made at ek


In Slovenia, yes. But not in an EK facility as much as via a partnering shop.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Silent Wings for some strange reason are harder to obtain over all the other fans out there. NewEgg (US) which is basically BQ webstore in the US. It's very spotty when it comes to stock.
> 
> ----
> 
> Take this how you will but Singularity Computers loves the Corsair ML Pro's. They are picky a hell when it comes to radiator fans.


Oh I can get Silent Wings not a problem but the shop I can get them from charge a restocking fee so if I decide I don't like them I've got to pay 2 - 4% to restock them (plus postage) even if I don't open them or reuse them. The place I bought the ML120's offers a 30 day change of mind and only charges restocking fee if the packaging or anything in it is damaged.

Either way I ordered the Ml120's lastnight, $150 AUD for 5 of them, hopefully I get them this week because I sold my 3 case fans yesterday







.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Oh I can get Silent Wings not a problem but the shop I can get them from charge a restocking fee so if I decide I don't like them I've got to pay 2 - 4% to restock them (plus postage) even if I don't open them or reuse them. The place I bought the ML120's offers a 30 day change of mind and only charges restocking fee if the packaging or anything in it is damaged.
> 
> Either way I ordered the Ml120's lastnight, $150 AUD for 5 of them, hopefully I get them this week because I sold my 3 case fans yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


2 to 4% isn't really that bad. Allot places charge up to 20%


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Either way I ordered the Ml120's lastnight, $150 AUD for 5 of them, hopefully I get them this week because I sold my 3 case fans yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Would love an objective opinion of noise levels once you get the ML 120s.


----------



## looniam

an australian being objective?


----------



## iamjanco

Sure, as long as you don't bring up crocs and Aboriginal mysticism.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Isn't everything made in China anyway, when it comes down to it?


Most, but not all. The crucial difference is where the engineering was done. If a part is property engineered, specs often require tighter tolerances so that a factory in China can produce off spec and still be within what the real spec should've been.


----------



## Neonkore

I have the ML120 Pros and the ML140 Pros. I got them because I wanted some good static pressure fans for my rads. I've come from Noctuas which I would have got again... but I can't stand the brown anymore.

The 120's are inaudible below 500RPM (~25%) - this is what I want for idle state
900RPM (~35%) you just hear them - this is what I would want for the majority of my load state
1250RPM you start to hear them
1550RPM (~60%) is the limit to what I would want to hear in a load state
2400RPM is loud

I've got the H115i cooling my 1950X currently so it's hard to tell if the pump is noisy or if the fans are making slight bearing noise (doubtful considering the bearing type) - however I did hear a high pitch squeak on one of the fans at very low speed one time (hasn't done it ever again) so it's possible. I have also noticed an induction noise at certain (low) RPMs but i'm running those fans off the corsair link instead of the motherboard so it may be a factor (been having weird issues with power cutting etc to those fans). I'll be setting up my WC in 2 weeks time and will migrate all fans to MOBO headers so hopefully no weird noises and issues after that.

For reference, the case is a fairly closed InWin 909. The white light looks like a true white, slightly on the cooler side.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

That's about where I found them in my S3... maybe even a little higher before audible as a fan ~1000RPM. Below that nothing but airflow, so not actually 'silent' but just subtle air movement sounds.

Above that it's still pleasant until ~1250 where it starts sounding "like a fan" but no whines or bearing noises, just a little motor noise. Actually that holds all the way up with my MLs actually. Even at full blast they don't have too much motor or bearing noise... but at that point there is tons of air noise - to the point that it's very distracting IMO.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonkore*
> 
> I have the ML120 Pros and the ML140 Pros. I got them because I wanted some good static pressure fans for my rads. I've come from Noctuas which I would have got again... but I can't stand the brown anymore.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The 120's are inaudible below 500RPM (~25%) - this is what I want for idle state
> 900RPM (~35%) you just hear them - this is what I would want for the majority of my load state
> 1250RPM you start to hear them
> 1550RPM (~60%) is the limit to what I would want to hear in a load state
> 2400RPM is loud
> 
> I've got the H115i cooling my 1950X currently so it's hard to tell if the pump is noisy or if the fans are making slight bearing noise (doubtful considering the bearing type) - however I did hear a high pitch squeak on one of the fans at very low speed one time (hasn't done it ever again) so it's possible. I have also noticed an induction noise at certain (low) RPMs but i'm running those fans off the corsair link instead of the motherboard so it may be a factor (been having weird issues with power cutting etc to those fans). I'll be setting up my WC in 2 weeks time and will migrate all fans to MOBO headers so hopefully no weird noises and issues after that.
> 
> For reference, the case is a fairly closed InWin 909. The white light looks like a true white, slightly on the cooler side.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> That's about where I found them in my S3... maybe even a little higher before audible as a fan ~1000RPM. Below that nothing but airflow, so not actually 'silent' but just subtle air movement sounds.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Above that it's still pleasant until ~1250 where it starts sounding "like a fan" but no whines or bearing noises, just a little motor noise. Actually that holds all the way up with my MLs actually. Even at full blast they don't have too much motor or bearing noise... but at that point there is tons of air noise - to the point that it's very distracting IMO.


Thanks for both of those opinions. The MLs certainly look nice and seem to make for good radiator fans, given their static pressure. I've got a white SMA8 on a pedestal myself, and a number of low resistance rads (all SR2 MPs); hence my interest in them and call for objective opinions.


----------



## youngjnr

Sorted that kink out









Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> Sorted that kink out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Good to see that, completely up to you but I think if you got some more angled adapters and rearranged your temp sensor your loop would look cleaner. It's a bit spaghetti like atm. I haven't used soft tubing in a long time but when I use to.


----------



## youngjnr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> Sorted that kink out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Good to see that, completely up to you but I think if you got some more angled adapters and rearranged your temp sensor your loop would look cleaner. It's a bit spaghetti like atm. I haven't used soft tubing in a long time but when I use to.
Click to expand...

Thanks,I will take your advice and get some more angled adapters to try and improve the overall look, this is my first loop lool still learning your sort tubing looks really good I'll try to do something as clean

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## Paul17041993

I take it the corsair maglevs are basically 'the best' for silent performance, but to those with the non-rubber-mount ones how much vibration do you get from them? I'm in the market for replacing my 6 basic 140mm's with more decent fans that don't vibrate and make a lot of air noise at high rpm, this is a low FPI 80mm thick rad too.


----------



## kevindd992002

Since Coffee Lake has more cores now and power delivery is more than previous gens, would it be beneficial to go with a motherboard that is watercooled like the Maximus X Formula? Is the extea cost worth it? I'll be OC'ing an 8700K.

My original plan was to go with 7700K/z270 and have one loop with a 360mm and a 280mm GTS rad that will cool both the CPU and GPU. If I include the motherboard components in the loop, are my rads enough for the job?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> I take it the corsair maglevs are basically 'the best' for silent performance, but to those with the non-rubber-mount ones how much vibration do you get from them? I'm in the market for replacing my 6 basic 140mm's with more decent fans that don't vibrate and make a lot of air noise at high rpm, this is a low FPI 80mm thick rad too.


IIRC the Noiseblocker Eloops were the best for silent performance. EK Vardars are also very potent due to their high static pressure. This is because the Maglevs don't actually produce that much static pressure at low RPM, they're a very jack of all trades design that loses to the specialized designs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Since Coffee Lake has more cores now and power delivery is more than previous gens, would it be beneficial to go with a motherboard that is watercooled like the Maximus X Formula? Is the extea cost worth it? I'll be OC'ing an 8700K.
> 
> My original plan was to go with 7700K/z270 and have one loop with a 360mm and a 280mm GTS rad that will cool both the CPU and GPU. If I include the motherboard components in the loop, are my rads enough for the job?


Overkill IMO. Most of the 10-phase Z270 mobos can handle the extra 50% more TDP just fine already. Coffeelake isn't SKL-X. The power draw isn't THAT much higher.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Overkill IMO. Most of the 10-phase Z270 mobos can handle the extra 50% more TDP just fine already. Coffeelake isn't SKL-X. The power draw isn't THAT much higher.


Gotcha! That's what I thought. For me, it's more of a gimmick than anything unless you're into extreme overclocking that is.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> Thanks,I will take your advice and get some more angled adapters to try and improve the overall look, this is my first loop lool still learning your sort tubing looks really good I'll try to do something as clean
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


you did good


----------



## Neonkore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> IIRC the Noiseblocker Eloops were the best for silent performance. EK Vardars are also very potent due to their high static pressure. This is because the Maglevs don't actually produce that much static pressure at low RPM, they're a very jack of all trades design that loses to the specialized designs.


But the MLs make 33% more static pressure than the Vardars with slightly less airflow (-2.7%) at 9% more RPM and 10% more dBA - if you adjust linearly for fan speed down to 2200RPM they are in fact more of a static pressure fan (+20%) with less airflow (69CFM, -12%) and 4% more dBA than the Vardars.

I'd have to look up the Noiseblockers.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> IIRC the Noiseblocker Eloops were the best for silent performance. EK Vardars are also very potent due to their high static pressure. This is because the Maglevs don't actually produce that much static pressure at low RPM, they're a very jack of all trades design that loses to the specialized designs.


That's a good point, though the vardar's don't have anti-vibration mounting and my research found they can emit quite a bit of vibrational noise, so I'd need to work out a good form of vibration isolation if I were to use them...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Overkill IMO. Most of the 10-phase Z270 mobos can handle the extra 50% more TDP just fine already. Coffeelake isn't SKL-X. The power draw isn't THAT much higher.


They have a cooling requirement of 130W tho... or the top-end 6 core does anyway.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonkore*
> 
> But the MLs make 33% more static pressure than the Vardars with slightly less airflow (-2.7%) at 9% more RPM and 10% more dBA - if you adjust linearly for fan speed down to 2200RPM they are in fact more of a static pressure fan (+20%) with less airflow (69CFM, -12%) and 4% more dBA than the Vardars.
> 
> I'd have to look up the Noiseblockers.


Noise ratings aren't linear, two of the same fan instead of one only increases the reading by ~3.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonkore*
> 
> But the MLs make 33% more static pressure than the Vardars with slightly less airflow (-2.7%) at 9% more RPM and 10% more dBA - if you adjust linearly for fan speed down to 2200RPM they are in fact more of a static pressure fan (+20%) with less airflow (69CFM, -12%) and 4% more dBA than the Vardars.
> 
> I'd have to look up the Noiseblockers.


Static pressure is not linear with RPM though. You have to compare the PQ curves of the fans to know what CFM is produced at which pressure relative to RPM.

EK Vardars have a PQ curve on their website if you want to see the difference.

What is weird is the ML fan blade design is optimized to be jack of all trades slightly favouring CFM. I'd be surprised if it can outclass the Vardar for Static Pressure at the same RPM.


----------



## Neonkore

^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Noise ratings aren't linear, two of the same fan instead of one only increases the reading by ~3.


Yes I know, that's why I spoke in relation to dBa, in reality a 2.5 dBa difference at both fans highest RPMs will be indistinguishable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Static pressure is not linear with RPM though. You have to compare the PQ curves of the fans to know what CFM is produced at which pressure relative to RPM.
> 
> EK Vardars have a PQ curve on their website if you want to see the difference.
> 
> What is weird is the ML fan blade design is optimized to be jack of all trades slightly favouring CFM. I'd be surprised if it can outclass the Vardar for Static Pressure at the same RPM.


Ya just like a pump, but I didn't have the Corsair curves handy. This review paints them in a good light for sound, airflow and static pressure (not reviewed against the F4 though (different RPM range))

http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/12/corsair-ml120-pro-120-mm-fan/3/


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonkore*
> 
> But the MLs make 33% more static pressure than the Vardars with slightly less airflow (-2.7%) at 9% more RPM and 10% more dBA - if you adjust linearly for fan speed down to 2200RPM they are in fact more of a static pressure fan (+20%) with less airflow (69CFM, -12%) and 4% more dBA than the Vardars.
> 
> I'd have to look up the Noiseblockers.


It's actually a bit more. The data listed on Corsair website is what they got in a controlled environment. I was able to push my MLPro140 CFM up to about 110 (I believe, Maybe more). Don't recall what I got my MLPro120 up to.


----------



## dicom

Again i modded my WhiteStorm build, what to say









Few new things, but of course EK monoblock


----------



## taowulf

How much Mt. Dew was sacrificed for that build?

Just kidding, I like your dye color.

P.S. Almost went with "pee" instead of Mt. Dew.


----------



## dwolvin

Heh, you have more maturity than I.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got some new toys today.





Looks wise there a lot better than Noctua mustard and poop







, cables are as long as most Noctua fans too which is a massive plus, was able to get one of the top fans plugged into the 3rd and last header on my motherboard which is down near the 24 pin. Construction feels pretty solid and I do like the corner pieces although I'll never need to take them off, I like the understated mono look personally.

Now for the fun, I tested them just on the rad first to see how loud they were and surprisingly I could hardly hear them at a static 40%, played around with different profiles and speeds and anything over 1500RPM is almost as loud as the stock ones but they do move a hell of a lot of air at that speed.

So right now I'm pretty happy with them, have to give them some stress to see how they perform but they do seem to move a lot of air at 40% and if I need to I can run them maybe around 50 - 55% before they become annoying. Cant hear them at all with headphones on to









Currently I have all 5 (2 on rad, rest case fans) running 40% but not 100% sure I've got the case ones set up correctly, I have them as DC at 41% in the BIOS because MSI's fan control on PWM is a headache, it's a fan curve but as far as I can see you cant have them at a static speed







and SpeedFan doesn't pick them up at all







. Gonna have another play now and see if I can sort this out. My mistake I have the case ones running PWM in the BIOS at 41% (throws a warning up about running them at 40% or under), it's the smart fan control that has the stupid surprisingly laggy fan curve..


----------



## andre02

For this case: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-c what do you think will work best:

We are talking here about cpu only loop.

Option A (custom loop):

A1: 
or similar thickness 240mm radiator

A2: http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/gts/280gts/ or similar thickness 280mm radiator

Option B (AIO-ish)

Get a 240mm or 280mm all in one and be done with it. Which one ? Or one of the future EK MLC allinones(don't know when that's gonna come out).

Is there a significant difference between the 240 and 280 temp wise , does the more surface area rule count here ?

Ty,
Andrei


----------



## Neonkore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Got some new toys today.


Nice. Keep them in PWM, I believe the maglev has issues with lower voltages.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> Thanks,I will take your advice and get some more angled adapters to try and improve the overall look, this is my first loop lool still learning your sort tubing looks really good I'll try to do something as clean
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


If you're not using any of the 5.25" drive bays, I believe those plastic holders will come off. Then, you could cover the side with either a piece of acrylic or aluminum with a hole that allows the temperature screen to come through. I did that with my last build using a piece of aluminum. I think it really cleans up the look of that area.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonkore*
> 
> Nice. Keep them in PWM, I believe the maglev has issues with lower voltages.


Yeah I will, I've heard if they don't have a constant 12v they wont levitate properly or something.

Might bump the case ones up to 45 - 50% as well or play with the fan curve and get them running between 41 - 60% if I can.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonkore*
> 
> Nice. Keep them in PWM, I believe the maglev has issues with lower voltages.


Most PWM fans (and other motors) have issues if they're not supplied a constant 12V dc source. You can learn more about how they work *here*.

That said, you may come across complaints by others about pwm fans making clicking or other odd noises and the like; but those issues can often be attributed to people trying to power/control their pwm fans via three pin fan headers, which don't output pwm signals. Three pin headers, instead, should only be used with voltage controlled fans.


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> How much Mt. Dew was sacrificed for that build?
> 
> Just kidding, I like your dye color.
> 
> P.S. Almost went with "pee" instead of Mt. Dew.


I am glad that you like it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neonkore*
> 
> Nice. Keep them in PWM, I believe the maglev has issues with lower voltages.
> 
> 
> 
> Most PWM fans (and other motors) have issues if they're not supplied a constant 12V dc source. You can learn more about how they work *here*.
> 
> That said, you may come across complaints by others about pwm fans making clicking or other odd noises and the like; but those issues can often be attributed to people trying to power/control their pwm fans via three pin fan headers, which don't output pwm signals. Three pin headers, instead, should only be used with voltage controlled fans.
Click to expand...

Magnetic bearing fans are even more special then that, if not supplied with 12v, the bearings dont levitate properly, which causes issues


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Magnetic bearing fans are even more special then that, if not supplied with 12v, the bearings dont levitate properly, which causes issues


Correct, which is typically the result of using the wrong fan headers/controller in modern computer builds.


----------



## vmitri

Here is my custom PC, took me a while to perfect it, and still long way to go.


----------



## youngjnr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *youngjnr*
> 
> Thanks,I will take your advice and get some more angled adapters to try and improve the overall look, this is my first loop lool still learning your sort tubing looks really good I'll try to do something as clean
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> If you're not using any of the 5.25" drive bays, I believe those plastic holders will come off. Then, you could cover the side with either a piece of acrylic or aluminum with a hole that allows the temperature screen to come through. I did that with my last build using a piece of aluminum. I think it really cleans up the look of that area.
Click to expand...

Not using the bays so i can carry out this mod It really does clean up the look I will defo be putting that on my things to do list :thumbup:

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Magnetic bearing fans are even more special then that, if not supplied with 12v, the bearings dont levitate properly, which causes issues


and if you turn them upside down the bearings go past levitation point and wear the motor out 10 x faster

don't get me wrong I have 6 mlpro's in my rig, but the top two are both input rather than exhaust, they work fine perpendicular though which is good since I have 4 of them mounted on a h115i front mounted as push/pull input in my case, i'll probably swap out the rear 140mm exhaust at some point for another mlpro as well (once funds become available if for no other reason than I like everything to look the same)

although I somewhat cheated and have all of mine hooked up to a pwm extender module controlled via the h115i and controlled through the corsair link software, gave me quite a shock when the mb socket temp hit 45 degrees and all 6 of them hit max speed (don't know why but I had it setup to send all fans to max power if any temp hit 45 degrees) meh it only gets that hot after several hours of gaming when the room started off in the mid 20's and now the weathers cooling off I doubt I'll have to worry so much for the next 6 months /


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Magnetic bearing fans are even more special then that, if not supplied with 12v, the bearings dont levitate properly, which causes issues


They also have to run in PWM(atlease Corsair) or your going get noisy fans among other issues. Can't be using 3-pin headers or extensions. Anyone using those cheap fan controllers or cables are going to have issues.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> and if you turn them upside down the bearings go past levitation point and wear the motor out 10 x faster


That would have been nice to know before I bought them, my top 2 are exhaust, have to do it that way otherwise my case is an oven. Screw it if they fail or start making noises I'll change them to Noctua.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> and if you turn them upside down the bearings go past levitation point and wear the motor out 10 x faster
> 
> 
> 
> That would have been nice to know before I bought them, my top 2 are exhaust, have to do it that way otherwise my case is an oven. Screw it if they fail or start making noises I'll change them to Noctua.
Click to expand...

I have had two running as exhaust on top of my case for almost a year with no issues. YMMV but I think you can go ahead and use them in this position without any special risks. It would be a good idea to ensure that, if you are going to use splitters or extensions, they are of good quality, but this is true of any fan.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Magnetic bearing fans are even more special then that, if not supplied with 12v, the bearings dont levitate properly, which causes issues
> 
> 
> 
> and if you turn them upside down the bearings go past levitation point and wear the motor out 10 x faster/
Click to expand...

What is your source for this information?


----------



## kevindd992002

Anyone here confirmed a significant difference in overclocking when including the motherboard in the loop? I'm still not 100% convinced that I should go with an Asus Formula board considering that the 8700K/z370 system will be hotter due to extra cores and that I live in a tropical country.


----------



## Bartleby3004

my new rig











i7 7800x with gigabyte x299 ultra gaming with ek monoblock and gtx 1080ti fe with bitspower block. plan to get a thermaltake tower 900 case and go hardline and dual loop and upgrade my memory since i only have 2x8gb of ddr4 atm


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> What is your source for this information?


corsair support forums from their own reps explaining how the bearing works /


----------



## rolldog

After dealing with moving and remodeling over the last 4 months, I finally had some time to continue building my rig before all my new components are out of date, but I'm looking for a little advice. I'm using 16mm glass tubing and a Dremel with a diamond cutter to cut the tubing. I've already cut a few pieces by scoring around the tubing until it's cut all the way through. The cuts came out pretty good and I've used the diamond cutting wheel to chamfer the ends, holding the tubing at a 45 degree angle against the cutting wheel, but I've been doing this free hand, which has been a pain in the butt.

Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions for a way I could rig my dremel into a fixed position and a way I could lay the tubing down next to it, use something to keep the tubing at at exact length, while being able to rotate the tubing to get a perfect score all around? I've tried rigging a few things after watching a couple of videos of someone doing something similar, but their setup was much more elaborate than I need. This is the first loop I've built with glass tubing so this is one of the only ways I know how to get a clean cut without cracking the glass. Doing it freehand is much too difficult to get a clean score perfectly around because if I'm off even a few millimeters when scoring, I have to score it again. Then the piece always ends up a little too short for what I need. When building an acrylic loop, I could be off a millimeter or so longer than what I need, but I was still able to make it fit since it would give a little bit when installing the tubing between two fittings. Glass doesn't give.

If anyone has any ideas how I could rig something up to keep the dremel in a fixed position and keeping the borosilicate glass tubing at a fixed length, while allowing it to be rotated making a perfect score, I'd love some suggestions. I was able to use my table saw with a fine tooth blade when cutting acrylic, but I think that would create too much pressure on the glass tubing and then it would crack. I bought the small extension for my dremel, which makes it easier to cut in detail, but if I could rig something like I mentioned, I could probably finish all my cuts in one day.

If anyone had an idea or could even point me in the direction of where I could find a better method of cutting this, without spending all day building something, I would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> After dealing with moving and remodeling over the last 4 months, I finally had some time to continue building my rig before all my new components are out of date, but I'm looking for a little advice. I'm using 16mm glass tubing and a Dremel with a diamond cutter to cut the tubing. I've already cut a few pieces by scoring around the tubing until it's cut all the way through. The cuts came out pretty good and I've used the diamond cutting wheel to chamfer the ends, holding the tubing at a 45 degree angle against the cutting wheel, but I've been doing this free hand, which has been a pain in the butt.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions for a way I could rig my dremel into a fixed position and a way I could lay the tubing down next to it, use something to keep the tubing at at exact length, while being able to rotate the tubing to get a perfect score all around? I've tried rigging a few things after watching a couple of videos of someone doing something similar, but their setup was much more elaborate than I need. This is the first loop I've built with glass tubing so this is one of the only ways I know how to get a clean cut without cracking the glass. Doing it freehand is much too difficult to get a clean score perfectly around because if I'm off even a few millimeters when scoring, I have to score it again. Then the piece always ends up a little too short for what I need. When building an acrylic loop, I could be off a millimeter or so longer than what I need, but I was still able to make it fit since it would give a little bit when installing the tubing between two fittings. Glass doesn't give.
> 
> If anyone has any ideas how I could rig something up to keep the dremel in a fixed position and keeping the borosilicate glass tubing at a fixed length, while allowing it to be rotated making a perfect score, I'd love some suggestions. I was able to use my table saw with a fine tooth blade when cutting acrylic, but I think that would create too much pressure on the glass tubing and then it would crack. I bought the small extension for my dremel, which makes it easier to cut in detail, but if I could rig something like I mentioned, I could probably finish all my cuts in one day.
> 
> If anyone had an idea or could even point me in the direction of where I could find a better method of cutting this, without spending all day building something, I would greatly appreciate it.


What you are describing sounds a lot like a tile saw. If y have access to one it might go even faster. Otherwise here is an instructables link for a dremel table http://www.instructables.com/id/Mini-Tablesaw-Router-Shaper-for-Dremel-rotary-/


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> After dealing with moving and remodeling over the last 4 months, I finally had some time to continue building my rig before all my new components are out of date, but I'm looking for a little advice. I'm using 16mm glass tubing and a Dremel with a diamond cutter to cut the tubing. I've already cut a few pieces by scoring around the tubing until it's cut all the way through. The cuts came out pretty good and I've used the diamond cutting wheel to chamfer the ends, holding the tubing at a 45 degree angle against the cutting wheel, but I've been doing this free hand, which has been a pain in the butt.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions for a way I could rig my dremel into a fixed position and a way I could lay the tubing down next to it, use something to keep the tubing at at exact length, while being able to rotate the tubing to get a perfect score all around? I've tried rigging a few things after watching a couple of videos of someone doing something similar, but their setup was much more elaborate than I need. This is the first loop I've built with glass tubing so this is one of the only ways I know how to get a clean cut without cracking the glass. Doing it freehand is much too difficult to get a clean score perfectly around because if I'm off even a few millimeters when scoring, I have to score it again. Then the piece always ends up a little too short for what I need. When building an acrylic loop, I could be off a millimeter or so longer than what I need, but I was still able to make it fit since it would give a little bit when installing the tubing between two fittings. Glass doesn't give.
> 
> If anyone has any ideas how I could rig something up to keep the dremel in a fixed position and keeping the borosilicate glass tubing at a fixed length, while allowing it to be rotated making a perfect score, I'd love some suggestions. I was able to use my table saw with a fine tooth blade when cutting acrylic, but I think that would create too much pressure on the glass tubing and then it would crack. I bought the small extension for my dremel, which makes it easier to cut in detail, but if I could rig something like I mentioned, I could probably finish all my cuts in one day.
> 
> If anyone had an idea or could even point me in the direction of where I could find a better method of cutting this, without spending all day building something, I would greatly appreciate it.


have you got a bench vice and tried setting the dremel into it and then just holding the tube ?

you can also try putting tape on either side of where you wish to make the cut (mark the tube with a non permeant marker like a dry wipe marker) and thus create a divet that guides you and provides a nice visual cue on where the cut needs to be without needing to first score the tube

if your free handing with both parts its always harder if your aim is to make a 45 degree tube holder that lets you keep it in place for the chamfering then I would suggest something like a bent piece of wire threaded through a and then glued into place in a short bit of hose pipe and clamped next to the dremmel in the bench vice (if you don't have a bench vice then your into doing things with mounting blocks and clamps to custom make a holder for the dremel)

that then means you get an angle guide and whilst your still manualy feeding the tube and turning it your getting the perfect cutting edge without needing some eleaborate /expensive setup, the rubber hose obviously needs to be large enough to take both the wire and the tubing and still have enough play that you can turn the tube as required.... if you don't have some suitable wire then possibly a bit of sheet metal mark out the angle > cut it with the dremel then bend it to give and required elevation, leave it overly long so that theres enough of a tail to fit into the vice and glue some hose to it and still will give you the 45 degree cutting edge.

you can then do something similar to hold the tubing in 90 degree to the cutting surface so your only worry is twisting the tube whilst cutting it to size (having marked/taped it at the right spot(s)

of course all this is a lot easier with a bench vice but if you don't have one then a few jubilee clips mounted to a bit of 4 by 2 can hold the dremel in place whilst a couple more mounted in the right spot can give you the tube holders (I would advise still using hose pipe and not clamping down to much with the clips so the tubing is easily turned and less likely to get damaged) testing it out with some already useless off cuts will be the prrof of the pudding and then in theory it should work out just fine.

glass is obviously a lot harder to use since you cant just get a cheap reusable cutter although something like this might just make it all simpler if you can get them in your country, you would still likely need ot use the dremmel to chamfer off the ends but I suspect it would be a lot simpler to cut through the tube


----------



## looniam

rhetorical:
_
what do you have laying around to work with?_ (lots'o times i just stare and let my mind's eye visualize)

i keep thinking of clamping/vicing the dremel to a table top. i see the post above about a table saw. this is similar but the wheel motor is above the "table top" not below.

if the cutting wheel is too big to alow it to lie flat - get a board to shim the body. if the wheel is small and the tube won't cut when laying it on the table. use a board to raise the tube to the wheel.

are you visualizing it?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Happy my rig made the 1300 mile journey back to Atlanta, hit a few bumps on the Highway I was sure would have caused an issue. .. No to design the new office space


----------



## docsys

would a loop like this work?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> would a loop like this work?


Perfectly fine. You would lose about 2-3C of performance due to flipped inlet/outlet ports on the GPU block a the worst.


----------



## sli_shroom

wouldnt that essentially bypass the gpu?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> wouldnt that essentially bypass the gpu?


Not at all, that would be running it in a Parallel config vs the serial (think that's the right term) that most normally run their loops. Also would like to see proof on losing 2 to 3c due to this, if that's true then people would not run in that config


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> wouldnt that essentially bypass the gpu?


Nope, fluid takes the path of least resistance, so the flow will split between the 2 blocks, the block with the least resistance will get more flow, but both blocks will be cooled.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> wouldnt that essentially bypass the gpu?
> 
> 
> 
> Not at all, that would be running it in a Parallel config vs the serial (think that's the right term) that most normally run their loops. Also would like to see proof on losing 2 to 3c due to this, if that's true then people would not run in that config
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> OP: Small theoretical difference in both hydraulic and thermal performance but virtually immeasurable in real life. The margin of error between data acquisition is higher than the difference.


truly IDK but i wouldn't be surprised if a particular set up may experience a larger delta.

E:
that is if you're talking reverse flow in the gpu block.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> They also have to run in PWM(atlease Corsair) or your going get noisy fans among other issues. Can't be using 3-pin headers or extensions. Anyone using those cheap fan controllers or cables are going to have issues.


Where are you guys coming up with these ridiculous claims concerning there fans?! Been running 6 of these fans, upside down with extensions off a cheap hub for over a year now. There is absolutely zero difference between the day I bought them and today.

Do you guys just make stuff up to try and get people to buy your favorite fans for fun?

How about you actually link some real, verifiable source instead of making such stupid claims.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Where are you guys coming up with these ridiculous claims concerning there fans?! Been running 6 of these fans, upside down with extensions off a cheap hub for over a year now. There is absolutely zero difference between the day I bought them and today.
> 
> Do you guys just make stuff up to try and get people to buy your favorite fans for fun?
> 
> How about you actually link some real, verifiable source instead of making such stupid claims.


Based on reviews(Thermal Bench to name one) and actual data. It requires the PWM signal for the fan to actually Levitate.

+

Corsair them selves.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Based on reviews(Thermal Bench to name one) and actual data. It requires the PWM signal for the fan to actually Levitate.
> 
> +
> 
> Corsair them selves.


yeah but corsair are funny about it, on the one hand you have to trawl through their forums to find the actual post from the rep about how the fan is meant to be used (by design) and on the other hand you have the pdf document on the product page in their shop one gives a detailed picture that indicates there could be a problem (something I suspect will be reengineered in future generations) and a note contained in the box about not sticking the fans upside down (had one in all 6 of the boxes I opened) but not mentioned on the product sheet packed with the fan...

I guess it would be easy to overlook the notes even though they are quite specific about need for the constant 12v power and a quick message on the forums will maybe get one of the CSR's to mention that only proper pwm controllers should be used to avoid premature damage, indeed they advise the use of pwm controller/extenders like the CLCP (although I wouldn't because most batches seem to have a serious defect) and any sata pwm controller needs to be limited to a max of 4 fans due to start power draw.....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Based on reviews(Thermal Bench to name one) and actual data. It requires the PWM signal for the fan to actually Levitate.
> 
> +
> 
> Corsair them selves.


Slight correction: they have to be supplied 12 V DC power, not a PWM signal, for the bearings to magnetically levitate. Anything from 9-12 V is still okay, and less than that is when you get into trouble territory.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Based on reviews(Thermal Bench to name one) and actual data. It requires the PWM signal for the fan to actually Levitate.
> 
> +
> 
> Corsair them selves.


Go ahead and link that info. I'm sitting here on Corsair's website blog and product page for the ML120 fans and I see absolutely no mention of anything that you guys are spouting about.

Actually, let me link Thermalbench's review of the ML series fan for you:

http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/12/corsair-ml120-pro-120-mm-fan/4/

Guess what? Not a single mention of using the fans upside down. Fans worked all the way down to 4.4v, although he does suggest staying above 9v power at all times. He said that there MAY be reduced performance, but not that any damage would occur. No mention that extender cables should not be used, and suggests using a powered fan hub if you're going to go that route.

Again, over a years use, no difference in performance from the day I purchased the fans. If it degrades performance 10 times faster, these fans would have about 11 years of use on them. They must have an extremely high lifespan if that's the case.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> yeah but corsair are funny about it, on the one hand you have to trawl through their forums to find the actual post from the rep about how the fan is meant to be used (by design) and on the other hand you have the pdf document on the product page in their shop one gives a detailed picture that indicates there could be a problem (something I suspect will be reengineered in future generations) and a note contained in the box about not sticking the fans upside down (had one in all 6 of the boxes I opened) but not mentioned on the product sheet packed with the fan...


I have 12 boxes for the ML120's and 2 for the ML140's. Not a single one contained any paperwork, let alone a warning not to use these fans upside down.


----------



## Phazeshifta

I just opened up another of my ML140 case fans and this one contained information on the warranty and reading over the warranty information, there is absolutely no mention of using the fans upside down or that 9-12v are required.


----------



## looniam

i always look at my products' warranty to find valid tech specs . . .


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> I just opened up another of my ML140 case fans and this one contained information on the warranty and reading over the warranty information, there is absolutely no mention of using the fans upside down or that 9-12v are required.


1) Please don't triple post in this thread, BNeg will unleash Magoo on you and others on mobile will very insistently remind you how to use the edit function, as you should.

2) The first of many similar examples available on the net cautioning against this:
Quote:


> Aside from the shorter range of operation, there are 2 other reasons why you may not want to do voltage control: (1) the LED brightness will be affected for the LED models, *and (2) the MagLev bearing will not work well lower than 8-9 V with the bearing not levitating as it should.* Without long term testing at lower voltages, I can't say what the effect of this will be but I do not want to find out for myself and neither do I recommend you do so either. Please- stick to PWM control here.
> 
> (Edit: July 13, 2016- I noticed a few people misunderstanding what I meant above. *The bearing suddenly does not become a sleeve bearing and be prone to issues under voltage control. Sleeve bearings also are not a particular item that goes bad at a particular time but that's a discussion for another time. I am trying to refrain people from using voltage control here as the electromagnetic field generated that helps levitate the bearing will be powered via a constant 12 V when using PWM control. If using voltage control, the strength of said field will change and effect the nature of the fan.* Given this is advertised as a PWM fan, I am reviewing it as such and so I have no issues with any potential issues under voltage control. Neither should you.)


SOURCE

Edit: one of many sources involving the positioning of the fan and potential issues. As always, YMMV.

Corsair Forums

3) Please be more mindful of your tone as in a previous post - we don't need flame wars and accusations flying in this thread.


----------



## iamjanco

If they fit your setup, the Corsair fans seem to be nice, albeit expensive beasts, unless you buy *the plain-jane package sold as a pair* (then they're competitively priced). The only thing that makes me hesitate from purchasing any of their products lately is *the viability of their branded products down the road* with respect to quality and warranty support.

The comments found at that last link above, while anecdotal, probably speak at least some truth.


----------



## Phazeshifta

You do enough looking, you're bound to find people that have negative reviews about every fan. 1 post doesn't mean anything.

And I'm still waiting for this magical post where a corsair rep said that using the fans upside down will decrease the lifespan of the fans by 10 fold.


----------



## Ascendic

Finally finished stripping down and rebuilding rig after Aurora fail




Spoiler: More sexyness


----------



## SavantStrike

How long were you running the Aorora before you hand trouble?


----------



## Hello Man

Anyone else waiting for Primochill Vue? It will be soooo sexy.

Just finished sleeving my GPU power cables. Can't wait for a loop refresh when the new coolant comes out.

Some pics:






To think about 2 months ago my rig looked like this:



How things have changed.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Depends on it's runtime allowance, needs to be over 6mo


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hello Man*
> 
> Anyone else waiting for Primochill Vue? It will be soooo sexy.
> 
> Just finished sleeving my GPU power cables. Can't wait for a loop refresh when the new coolant comes out.
> 
> Some pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To think about 2 months ago my rig looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How things have changed.


I'm going to be trying it out for my ryzen build I'm working on. Aurora is what got me into watercooling so if primochill made a version that can work with a huge setup like mine, I have to give it a shot. I'm usually a mayhems only guy, but for this I'll give primochill a chance.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Anyone here confirmed a significant difference in overclocking when including the motherboard in the loop? I'm still not 100% convinced that I should go with an Asus Formula board considering that the 8700K/z370 system will be hotter due to extra cores and that I live in a tropical country.


Anyone can help me regarding my question?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Anyone can help me regarding my question?


your question is vague. Are you asking if cooling the VRM and power array will help with overclocking an 8700K?


----------



## Hello Man

As long as you can get enough radiator surface area, you should be fine. If anything, keeping the VRM circuitry cool should improve stability/power delivery.

What case are you building in? I think a monoblock would look sexy.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hello Man*
> 
> Anyone else waiting for Primochill Vue? It will be soooo sexy.


Waiting on long-term test results of it. JayzTwoCents has already been using it for over a month with no separation or temperature increases or other adverse effects.

My next build won't be until February or thereabouts, so I have plenty of time to find out whether or not there will be long-term issues with it.

Thinking of doing a black/white or black/gray build with purple VUE coolant.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> your question is vague. Are you asking if cooling the VRM and power array will help with overclocking an 8700K?


You're right. I did read my question again and is lacking enough details to warrant an answer







But yes, your understanding is correct. I'm asking if including the VRM and power array to a watercooling loop will help in OC'ing an 8700K and keep the system more stable while at it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hello Man*
> 
> As long as you can get enough radiator surface area, you should be fine. If anything, keeping the VRM circuitry cool should improve stability/power delivery.
> 
> What case are you building in? I think a monoblock would look sexy.


I'll be using one 360mm GTS and one 280mm GTS radiator so that should cover the radiator surface area part. When you say "keeping the VRM circuitry cool should improve stability/power delivery", that translates to better 8700K (or CPU's in general) OC stability, correct?

I'll be using a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX with a ModMyMods-modded top to improve ventilation so no issues there. I agree about the looks of a monoblock but I try to stay away from them as they generally are only made for one specific motherboard. Besides, I already have a Kryos Cuplex CPU waterblock at my disposal.


----------



## rolldog

I have all of the above, so I'll work with it some more using some of your suggestions. Like I mentioned, I recently moved into a new house, so I haven't had an opportunity to work on my garage/work space yet, but I own everything you mentioned. I have no problem chamfering the tubing free hand, it's just getting the score around the tubing just right. Once it's scored, it's easy to finish up since the score is there. I think I was frustrated and needed a break.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You're right. I did read my question again and is lacking enough details to warrant an answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yes, your understanding is correct. I'm asking if including the VRM and power array to a watercooling loop will help in OC'ing an 8700K and keep the system more stable while at it.
> 
> I'll be using one 360mm GTS and one 280mm GTS radiator so that should cover the radiator surface area part. When you say "keeping the VRM circuitry cool should improve stability/power delivery", that translates to better 8700K (or CPU's in general) OC stability, correct?
> 
> I'll be using a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX with a ModMyMods-modded top to improve ventilation so no issues there. I agree about the looks of a monoblock but I try to stay away from them as they generally are only made for one specific motherboard. Besides, I already have a Kryos Cuplex CPU waterblock at my disposal.


I really doubt if water cooling VRMs on a Z370 board matters. The 8700K doesn't use that much power so a properly designed motherboard should be fine on air. Even on 2066 and TR4 VRM temperatures are within normal ranges unless you're beating on the platform really hard.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I really doubt if water cooling VRMs on a Z370 board matters. The 8700K doesn't use that much power so a properly designed motherboard should be fine on air. Even on 2066 and TR4 VRM temperatures are within normal ranges unless you're beating on the platform really hard.


Even with ambient temps as high as 34C?


----------



## Hello Man

What are you going for speed wise? If were looking for something extreme, it might matter.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Even with ambient temps as high as 34C?


With higher ambient temps you can still use the air cooled stuff but you just need higher airflow / more fan noise.. if noise and temps are something you want to keep low then a monoblock will help in that regard.


----------



## Hello Man

It might make sense to do a monoblock if you want silence for sure. If you can add a lot of rad surface area and keep the fan speeds down, you'll have more sucess in that regard.


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> How long were you running the Aorora before you hand trouble?


Within 2 weeks I noticed it starting to lose the effect and within a month or so it was completely clear. While the look of it is absolutely amazing that stuff is a nightmare to get out of your system. It was seriously everywhere, water blocks, cpu jet plate was completely clogged, radiator, reservoir, acrylic tube walls, fittings etc. It sticks to and plugs every nook and cranny it can find. It is small enough that it can actually get inside the o-rings, there were layers of it under all my o-rings and a huge silver ring of it in between the glass reservoir housing and the o-ring at the bottom that you could actually watch build up over time. Here is to hoping the new nano coolant turns out well and has some similar light reflecting properties.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> Within 2 weeks I noticed it starting to lose the effect and within a month or so it was completely clear. While the look of it is absolutely amazing that stuff is a nightmare to get out of your system. It was seriously everywhere, water blocks, cpu jet plate was completely clogged, radiator, reservoir, acrylic tube walls, fittings etc. It sticks to and plugs every nook and cranny it can find. It is small enough that it can actually get inside the o-rings, there were layers of it under all my o-rings and a huge silver ring of it in between the glass reservoir housing and the o-ring at the bottom that you could actually watch build up over time. Here is to hoping the new nano coolant turns out well and has some similar light reflecting properties.


Oh, 2 weeks. I thought it was only good for a couple of days or so. It's gorgeous, but the stuff is for trade shows only I suppose.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Even with ambient temps as high as 34C?


Probably still within limits, although it might start to make sense. At those temps you'd want a fair amount of air over the VRM's and that can get noisy.

As long as you keep VRMs under 75C, you probably wouldn't see any real world throttling, and 75 is generous, the real number is probably more like 85-90C. Unless you're heavily overclocked and pulling loads of power from the wall (double or triple stock TDP), I don't see a high end Z370 board getting that warm unless the VRMs are marginal. Toms showed an overclocked power consumption of around 165 Watts at 4.9ghz on all cores.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hello Man*
> 
> What are you going for speed wise? If were looking for something extreme, it might matter.


Nothing too extreme, really. Maybe past the 5GHz mark as most peoplr target for?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> With higher ambient temps you can still use the air cooled stuff but you just need higher airflow / more fan noise.. if noise and temps are something you want to keep low then a monoblock will help in that regard.


Can radiator fans, whether push or pull, achieve this effect? Or do I have to have a dedicated fan blowing over the VRM heatsinks?

I want to take noise to a minimum but nothing too absolute. I'm building a gaming pc, not an HTPC, so yeah probably just a good balance between everything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hello Man*
> 
> It might make sense to do a monoblock if you want silence for sure. If you can add a lot of rad surface area and keep the fan speeds down, you'll have more sucess in that regard.


But it's not like you can base your fan PWM speeds off of VRM temps, can you?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Probably still within limits, although it might start to make sense. At those temps you'd want a fair amount of air over the VRM's and that can get noisy.
> 
> As long as you keep VRMs under 75C, you probably wouldn't see any real world throttling, and 75 is generous, the real number is probably more like 85-90C. Unless you're heavily overclocked and pulling loads of power from the wall (double or triple stock TDP), I don't see a high end Z370 board getting that warm unless the VRMs are marginal. Toms showed an overclocked power consumption of around 165 Watts at 4.9ghz on all cores.


Yeah, I guess it all depends on the pricing of the Maximus X Formula when it becomes available but I'm sure it'll cost an arm and a leg.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Nothing too extreme, really. Maybe past the 5GHz mark as most peoplr target for?
> Can radiator fans, whether push or pull, achieve this effect? Or do I have to have a dedicated fan blowing over the VRM heatsinks?
> 
> I want to take noise to a minimum but nothing too absolute. I'm building a gaming pc, not an HTPC, so yeah probably just a good balance between everything.
> But it's not like you can base your fan PWM speeds off of VRM temps, can you?
> Yeah, I guess it all depends on the pricing of the Maximus X Formula when it becomes available but I'm sure it'll cost an arm and a leg.


Dedicated fan would be easiest, but also doesn't look terribly great. Being able to control a fan according to vrm temps depends on the board. Maybe wait a bit and see what boards will have monoblocks available before purchasing one, so you can start air cooled and change to a monoblock if you want to later.


----------



## moRReus

Snagged a good buy on a 1080 considering pricing as of late... aaand had to toss a water block on it of course!

1080 FE + XSPC RGB


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Nothing too extreme, really. Maybe past the 5GHz mark as most peoplr target for?
> Can radiator fans, whether push or pull, achieve this effect? Or do I have to have a dedicated fan blowing over the VRM heatsinks?
> 
> I want to take noise to a minimum but nothing too absolute. I'm building a gaming pc, not an HTPC, so yeah probably just a good balance between everything.
> But it's not like you can base your fan PWM speeds off of VRM temps, can you?
> Yeah, I guess it all depends on the pricing of the Maximus X Formula when it becomes available but I'm sure it'll cost an arm and a leg.


The high end Z370 boards get into stupid price territory IMO. They start costing as much as HEDT boards without the extra memory channels and PCIE lanes you get with a HEDT chip. for a 5GHZ overclock you won't need one unless you want it for another reason (PLX chips for quad SLI or something), but getting one of them to avoid cooling the VRM's isn't something I'd recommend from a cost standpoint.

If the radiator fans are right next to the VRM's exhausting out of the case (not onto them lol), they most definitely can cool the VRMs. If things get too toasty, you can also reverse the rear fan in the average chassis and have it blow in to the case (which also happens to be right on the VRMs). Set the temp curve to respond to VRM temps and you're golden.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> Dedicated fan would be easiest, but also doesn't look terribly great. Being able to control a fan according to vrm temps depends on the board. Maybe wait a bit and see what boards will have monoblocks available before purchasing one, so you can start air cooled and change to a monoblock if you want to later.


I'm not considering a monoblock because I already have a CPU WB. My dilemma is just choosing between the Formula (w/ EK VRM blocks already) and the Code/Hero.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> The high end Z370 boards get into stupid price territory IMO. They start costing as much as HEDT boards without the extra memory channels and PCIE lanes you get with a HEDT chip. for a 5GHZ overclock you won't need one unless you want it for another reason (PLX chips for quad SLI or something), but getting one of them to avoid cooling the VRM's isn't something I'd recommend from a cost standpoint.
> 
> If the radiator fans are right next to the VRM's exhausting out of the case (not onto them lol), they most definitely can cool the VRMs. If things get too toasty, you can also reverse the rear fan in the average chassis and have it blow in to the case (which also happens to be right on the VRMs). Set the temp curve to respond to VRM temps and you're golden.


Yeah, that's what I'm kinda thinking too. The Maximus IX Formula is already around $350ish, so I can imagine the Maximus X Formula getting close to the $400 price point already.

And yes, the three push for the 360mm rad on the top of the case will be right next to the VRMs and I'll also be using a rear fan blowing into the case.

It's just the itch, man, you know how it is


----------



## Trestles126

Took the lil guy out for some cleaning up.


----------



## Hello Man

You can get thermal sensors that plug into the headers that most ASUS boards have. That would allow you to base fan temps off of that sensor I beleive. I know even my Strix X370-F (a $180 board) has some temp sensor headers.


----------



## jakemfbacon

So I have the corsair 570x and am trying to setup my new ryzen 7 build. I just received the xspc photon reservoir as I thought it would be nice to mount it to the radiator as it looks like this case has no holes on case for it beside the bottom. Anyways, I have the longgg Asus strix oc 1080 ti and I didn't even think about it not fitting. I was only trying to water cool my CPU for now and not the flu but it looks like there is no room. I got it mounted like this barely but I am wondering if this is safe. I don't know if the vibration from the pump will mess with the GPU. It's not pressing down on the GPU at all though. I also have to mount my radiator with the ports at the bottom to mount it like this which I don't think is ideal. Also if anyone has any ideas on best way to make the loop. Can these ports be turned a different direction on the xspc photon? I am Just radiator and ek water block and I'm using soft tubing







but will upgrade to rigid sometime soon. Here are some pics...


----------



## dwolvin

From the pic angle it looks like the pump is pushing down on the video card? If so- no Bueno! If not, I wouldn't worry about it, vibrations of a pump shouldn't be worse than the fans onboard (imho/ymmv).

Side note: Other than Barrow and FormulaMod are there any decent cheap fitting places to look for silver / chrome soft tube fittings? I'm changing color this rebuild and going away from Monsoon freecenter this time...


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> From the pic angle it looks like the pump is pushing down on the video card? If so- no Bueno! If not, I wouldn't worry about it, vibrations of a pump shouldn't be worse than the fans onboard (imho/ymmv).
> 
> Side note: Other than Barrow and FormulaMod are there any decent cheap fitting places to look for silver / chrome soft tube fittings? I'm changing color this rebuild and going away from Monsoon freecenter this time...


I think xspc fittings are pretty cheap, have you checked them?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think xspc fittings are pretty cheap, have you checked them?


I also recommend the XSPC chrome fittings. Used them in my first water cooled build and never had a problem.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think xspc fittings are pretty cheap, have you checked them?


WHAT lol. I have so many xpsc fittings hardline, soft, angled. They are damn good for the money. Bettter than primochill, monsoon and much better than EK in quality. They aren't bitspower but for the price amazing.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

When I re-arranged my loop, my third EK rotary angle fitting leaked.. Had to do everything over. Lol.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> WHAT lol. I have so many xpsc fittings hardline, soft, angled. They are damn good for the money. Bettter than primochill, monsoon and much better than EK in quality. They aren't bitspower but for the price amazing.


I use XSPC fittings as often as possible. Anything they don't make I try and get from Barrow.


----------



## Deedaz

I moved my green lantern build into a CaseLabs BH8. More pics here.


----------



## Hello Man

Ooooo. Nice case, beautiful build. Install some green lighting maybe? Looks a little uneven since it only comes from the fans as far as I can see.


----------



## Trestles126

Just the one 240?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I moved my green lantern build into a CaseLabs BH8. More pics here.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Just the one 240?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I moved my green lantern build into a CaseLabs BH8. More pics here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I had to back off on the OC a bit and just set the fans to max. It won't be my main machine anymore so it's not a big deal. Running boinc in the background and cpu temps are running around 60, max at 80.


----------



## Trestles126

Cool just curious I have a little bh4 mitx with a 4690k and a 1080 that I have a 240 and a mini 60mm fan in the bottom exhaust
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Yeah, I had to back off on the OC a bit and just set the fans to max. It won't be my main machine anymore so it's not a big deal. Running boinc in the background and cpu temps are running around 60, max at 80.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Cool just curious I have a little bh4 mitx with a 4690k and a 1080 that I have a 240 and a mini 60mm fan in the bottom exhaust
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Yeah, I had to back off on the OC a bit and just set the fans to max. It won't be my main machine anymore so it's not a big deal. Running boinc in the background and cpu temps are running around 60, max at 80.
Click to expand...

That's a really sweet build. How well do those slim fans work? I thought about trying them with this but I already bought a dozen new fans for the new S8 build so figured I should reuse these


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I moved my green lantern build into a CaseLabs BH8. More pics here.


Are you the one that had all this in the fractal design arc mini? Looks like the same gear. If so that's a bummer. There's not a lot of us arc mini users left!


----------



## Trestles126

The silver stones seem to work ok for the size I just bought some prolimatech slim fans for the intakes cause they r black to see how they do. 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> That's a really sweet build. How well do those slim fans work? I thought about trying them with this but I already bought a dozen new fans for the new S8 build so figured I should reuse these


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I moved my green lantern build into a CaseLabs BH8. More pics here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you the one that had all this in the fractal design arc mini? Looks like the same gear. If so that's a bummer. There's not a lot of us arc mini users left!
Click to expand...

Nope, it was in an S8/pedestal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> The silver stones seem to work ok for the size I just bought some prolimatech slim fans for the intakes cause they r black to see how they do.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> That's a really sweet build. How well do those slim fans work? I thought about trying them with this but I already bought a dozen new fans for the new S8 build so figured I should reuse these
Click to expand...

Maybe next time I build in this case I'll pick some up and try to wedge that second rad in. May have to get creative with the pump/res situation, it's already a crazy tight squeeze.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Nope, it was in an S8/pedestal
> Maybe next time I build in this case I'll pick some up and try to wedge that second rad in. May have to get creative with the pump/res situation, it's already a crazy tight squeeze.


Gotcha. Looked exactly like the gear in a pretty heavily modified arc mini. Nice rig though.


----------



## Trestles126

Thought the bh8 had lower chamber options for rads? I had to mod light bars and use them to move the top Rad all the way to the right to clear the gpu and the routing I wanted to do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Nope, it was in an S8/pedestal
> Maybe next time I build in this case I'll pick some up and try to wedge that second rad in. May have to get creative with the pump/res situation, it's already a crazy tight squeeze.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thought the bh8 had lower chamber options for rads? I had to mod light bars and use them to move the top Rad all the way to the right to clear the gpu and the routing I wanted to do.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Nope, it was in an S8/pedestal
> Maybe next time I build in this case I'll pick some up and try to wedge that second rad in. May have to get creative with the pump/res situation, it's already a crazy tight squeeze.
Click to expand...

It does, but that's also where the drive cage is and the airflow is a lot more restricted on the bottom panel. You could probably squeeze a triple rad setup into one of these if you really tried.









edit:

Found a cablemods strip in my collection that was perfect.


----------



## Questors

Took me awhile, but it's been operating for a few months. Still making a cover for the PSU and working on custom wiring, another slow but sure project.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










I enjoy looking at the bling and flash of other builders, but I prefer a day to day look that more subdued.

I can't rave enough about CaseLabs and the MNPCTech door handles, the only place where CaseLabs falls short.

Yeah, the dirty boot tray, sexy aint it?! Wife required it or it was a no go. A small price to pay.


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Took me awhile, but it's been operating for a few months. Still making a cover for the PSU and working on custom wiring, another slow but sure project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I enjoy looking at the bling and flash of other builders, but I prefer a day to day look that more subdued.
> 
> I can't rave enough about CaseLabs and the MNPCTech door handles, the only place where CaseLabs falls short.
> 
> Yeah, the dirty boot tray, sexy aint it?! Wife required it or it was a no go. A small price to pay.


What are these door handles you speak of? I am about ready to rip the doors off my SM8...the handle is useless.


----------



## Questors

The handles are sold by MNPCTech. Easy install.

https://mnpctech.com/pc-case-lan-party-gaming-carry-top-server-tower-handles/recessed-pc-computer-handles-case-rack-speaker-audio-equipment-road-sound-dj/recessed-handles.html


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> The handles are sold by MNPCTech. Easy install.
> 
> https://mnpctech.com/pc-case-lan-party-gaming-carry-top-server-tower-handles/recessed-pc-computer-handles-case-rack-speaker-audio-equipment-road-sound-dj/recessed-handles.html


Or if you want to save yourself some money, just get some flight case handles, they're the exact same thing without the " custom case mod part" markup.


----------



## Questors

Because this entire thread is about saving money in a hobby that is the very example of unnecessary expenditure and excess.









Although, to be fair, that is true!


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> The handles are sold by MNPCTech. Easy install.
> 
> https://mnpctech.com/pc-case-lan-party-gaming-carry-top-server-tower-handles/recessed-pc-computer-handles-case-rack-speaker-audio-equipment-road-sound-dj/recessed-handles.html


Hmm...don't really care for those at all. I'll have to see if I can find something similar but smaller and without the giant metal plate.


----------



## looniam

you'll find a butt load of options googling "small handle flight case"


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> you'll find a butt load of options googling "small handle flight case"


Yea I don't really like the look of those handles though.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> Yea I don't really like the look of those handles though.


Hit up your favorite cabinetry store or home improvement warehouse... likely to be several decent options and for next to nothing comparatively.









Though admittedly less functionally appropriate as they will then not be recessed mounted solutions.


----------



## Laine

Since the NVA-P2004 GTX970 reference PCB is identical to the old GTX670, I decided to re-use an older block and save some money in the process.

Never really been a fan of the CSQ look of the EK-FC670 GTX, went for a more MIPS like finish instead.



 

Still to do is to change some screws around, polish the heads and go over the acetal with a finer grit to get rid of the cloudy finish.


----------



## SauronTheGreat

Which are the best 120 mm rad fans for exhaust ?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> Which are the best 120 mm rad fans for exhaust ?


I'm using Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000-PWM fans in my build. They're great and still push a ton of air at 900rpm. I have 4 in push at the bottom and 3 in pull at the top as exhaust.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SauronTheGreat*
> 
> Which are the best 120 mm rad fans for exhaust ?


I quite like Thermalright TY-147A or TY-143, these are 140mm fans with 120mm mounting, nice and quiet fans

As only 120mm fans then Phanteks PH-F120MP or BeQuiet Silent Wings 3

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## VoytekBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Because this entire thread is about saving money in a hobby that is the very example of unnecessary expenditure and excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although, to be fair, that is true!


In what universe is this thread about saving money haha








The sum of the watercooling parts alone could buy me a new computer hehe.

Oh well, hobbies right?


----------



## Bill Owen

OCN Worklog link, http://www.overclock.net/t/1597222/sponsored-cooler-master-mastercase-racing-5-pro-custom-pc-case-mod-build
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> Hmm...don't really care for those at all. I'll have to see if I can find something similar but smaller and without the giant metal plate.


Try Ebay


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> OCN Worklog link, http://www.overclock.net/t/1597222/sponsored-cooler-master-mastercase-racing-5-pro-custom-pc-case-mod-build
> Try Ebay


I was thinking something similar to the corsair 800/900d handle but instead when you pulled the handle it would push some kind of piston against the inside of the case to pop the door open.


----------



## alex4069

I have a second h100i v2 lying around and I am trying to find a bracket that would allow it to mount to my GTX 1080 Armor. Would a NZXT Kraken G12 GPU Bracket work for my cooler and card?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VoytekBE*
> 
> *In what universe is this thread about saving money haha*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sum of the watercooling parts alone could buy me a new computer hehe.
> 
> Oh well, hobbies right?


Exactly!


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex4069*
> 
> I have a second h100i v2 lying around and I am trying to find a bracket that would allow it to mount to my GTX 1080 Armor. Would a NZXT Kraken G12 GPU Bracket work for my cooler and card?


That's an Asetek based unit right? It should work quite well. The Armor has sinks on the VRMs and all but two of the memory chips IIRC, so with a pair of ramsinks you should be able to have the whole card cooled.


----------



## alex4069

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> That's an Asetek based unit right? It should work quite well. The Armor has sinks on the VRMs and all but two of the memory chips IIRC, so with a pair of ramsinks you should be able to have the whole card cooled.


Thank you. I just ordered one.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex4069*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> That's an Asetek based unit right? It should work quite well. The Armor has sinks on the VRMs and all but two of the memory chips IIRC, so with a pair of ramsinks you should be able to have the whole card cooled.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. I just ordered one.
Click to expand...

You're welcome!

I had two of the g10 brackets and a pair of clcs, one for each of my 7970's. Worked great for 2-3 years till I upgraded. You'll be happy with the performance.

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk


----------



## tongerks

hello guys any inputs for barrow 1080 ti gpu block and EK 1080 ti fe gpu block?

any pros and cons?


----------



## muzammil84

thought i'd share some pics of a customer build I have finished yesterday. Full build log and many pics here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1639630/build-log-i7-7700k-1080ti-sli-dual-loop-corsair-900d-by-likwid-mods


----------



## Jyve

So I'll be adding a second rad here soon. Figured I'd use this as an excuse to get a new case as well. I want one with a vertical gpu mount.

When running tuning is it ok to make the inlet and outlet on the same side? For instance the top? I know it's not ideal and I'm sure I'll lose a few degrees but am I correct in that it should still be fine right?

Block is a Bitspower for a gtx 980ti.


----------



## dwolvin

Shouldn't matter at all.


----------



## KCDC

Hey to all. This may be a tired and spoken of topic, but I'm a bit frustrated. It's been a year and I still have leftover dye from my first loop run from about a year ago in my rads. I used EK's blue coolant concentrate, diluted properly. Not the new cryoFuel, and I can't find a link to their older stuff. Not pastel.

I've done multiple attempts with the blitz part one on both rads, but there is still left over dye that eventually shows it's color after a month or so. Same amount with blitz part two on the whole system. I know it's in the rads. hwlabs gtr 420x2. Never re-used tubing.

Currently been using white pastel from Mayhems.. It's perfect white at first but eventually gets a blue tinge. I've done 3 teardowns since then with new fluid each time

Is there no other way to completely get this leftover dye out of the rads without ruining them? would running/flushing distilled for a while over and over an extended period of time eventually get it all out? Do I really have to replace the rads? That would really suck. Thanks for any tips.


----------



## Streetdragon

Fill the ads with boiling water. shake them till the rad is touchable/cooled down while shaking. Do this 2-3 times and the blue should be gone.

Maybe to be save mix vinegar in the boiling water. But do this only with an open window!!!


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Fill the ads with boiling water. shake them till the rad is touchable/cooled down while shaking. Do this 2-3 times and the blue should be gone.
> 
> Maybe to be save mix vinegar in the boiling water. But do this only with an open window!!!


OK, thank you. Is it strange that the blitz part 1 didn't get rid of it? I did the full 12 hour soak and a good bit of shaking. Did it during every tear-down. Just curious if it was a waste. It did get rid of "tarnish", particulates and some of the blue. Guess I thought it was the cure.

Boiling water and distilled vinegar outside. Will do.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Hey to all. This may be a tired and spoken of topic, but I'm a bit frustrated. It's been a year and I still have leftover dye from my first loop run from about a year ago in my rads. I used EK's blue coolant concentrate, diluted properly. Not the new cryoFuel, and I can't find a link to their older stuff. Not pastel.
> 
> I've done multiple attempts with the blitz part one on both rads, but there is still left over dye that eventually shows it's color after a month or so. Same amount with blitz part two on the whole system. I know it's in the rads. hwlabs gtr 420x2. Never re-used tubing.
> 
> Currently been using white pastel from Mayhems.. It's perfect white at first but eventually gets a blue tinge. I've done 3 teardowns since then with new fluid each time
> 
> Is there no other way to completely get this leftover dye out of the rads without ruining them? would running/flushing distilled for a while over and over an extended period of time eventually get it all out? Do I really have to replace the rads? That would really suck. Thanks for any tips.


I had this exact same problem after switching from a red fluid to clear. I kept getting little traces of red dye in the loop. What I did was lay the radiators on the counter and hook them up so that the flow was the opposite of what had been run in the loop. Run blitz part 2 with a D5 pump on its highest setting and was sure to cause enough turbulence to make the blitz part 2 solution foam up properly. Once I did that, it was only a few hours before the cleaning solution had a red tinge to it. I let it run for a whole day and then drained it. Refilled with distilled water and ran it for an hour to flush the part 2 out. After that, no more color change. My theory is that there were flow dead spots in the radiator where the dyes weren't getting properly stripped and flushed out of the rad. Be sure to run Blitz part 2 at a high flow rate with a strong pump. The solution needs to look like a white foam while it is running to "scrub" the surface of the rad.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Fill the ads with boiling water. shake them till the rad is touchable/cooled down while shaking. Do this 2-3 times and the blue should be gone.
> 
> Maybe to be save mix vinegar in the boiling water. But do this only with an open window!!!


Based on some posts in this forum I thought boiling water was considered bad for rads?


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> thought i'd share some pics of a customer build I have finished yesterday. Full build log and many pics here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1639630/build-log-i7-7700k-1080ti-sli-dual-loop-corsair-900d-by-likwid-mods
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! Very nice. Love some Watercool stuff.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> I had this exact same problem after switching from a red fluid to clear. I kept getting little traces of red dye in the loop. What I did was lay the radiators on the counter and hook them up so that the flow was the opposite of what had been run in the loop. Run blitz part 2 with a D5 pump on its highest setting and was sure to cause enough turbulence to make the blitz part 2 solution foam up properly. Once I did that, it was only a few hours before the cleaning solution had a red tinge to it. I let it run for a whole day and then drained it. Refilled with distilled water and ran it for an hour to flush the part 2 out. After that, no more color change. My theory is that there were flow dead spots in the radiator where the dyes weren't getting properly stripped and flushed out of the rad. Be sure to run Blitz part 2 at a high flow rate with a strong pump. The solution needs to look like a white foam while it is running to "scrub" the surface of the rad.


Why are you guys assuming that the dye is only stuck in the rads? It could be stuck basically anywhere in the loop, in any fitting, in any o-ring, in any crevice that liquid touches.

Simply cleaning out the radiators isn't anywhere near sufficient to get rid of dyes from a system.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> I had this exact same problem after switching from a red fluid to clear. I kept getting little traces of red dye in the loop. What I did was lay the radiators on the counter and hook them up so that the flow was the opposite of what had been run in the loop. Run blitz part 2 with a D5 pump on its highest setting and was sure to cause enough turbulence to make the blitz part 2 solution foam up properly. Once I did that, it was only a few hours before the cleaning solution had a red tinge to it. I let it run for a whole day and then drained it. Refilled with distilled water and ran it for an hour to flush the part 2 out. After that, no more color change. My theory is that there were flow dead spots in the radiator where the dyes weren't getting properly stripped and flushed out of the rad. Be sure to run Blitz part 2 at a high flow rate with a strong pump. The solution needs to look like a white foam while it is running to "scrub" the surface of the rad.


Interesting, I'll set up a simple res/pump/rad/rad loop when I do another teardown. I have part 2 left over I think. Thanks.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Why are you guys assuming that the dye is only stuck in the rads? It could be stuck basically anywhere in the loop, in any fitting, in any o-ring, in any crevice that liquid touches.
> 
> Simply cleaning out the radiators isn't anywhere near sufficient to get rid of dyes from a system.


Because I've throughly cleaned everything else possible. Over the course of a year, three full teardowns/cleans, I still have the blue tinge coming out eventually. Therefor, I deduce that it's the one thing that I can't take apart and clean thoroughly, the big rads.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Because I've throughly cleaned everything else possible. Over the course of a year, three full teardowns/cleans, I still have the blue tinge coming out eventually. Therefor, I deduce that it's the one thing that I can't take apart and clean thoroughly, the big rads.


So you pulled every o-ring out of every block and cleaned all the crevices around all of them? Including your GPU blocks? You might not think that anything is stuck in those crevices, but you'd be surprised.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> So you pulled every o-ring out of every block and cleaned all the crevices around all of them? Including your GPU blocks? You might not think that anything is stuck in those crevices, but you'd be surprised.


I mention it because my rads and fans were the only things that were used and not brand new when I assembled my most recent loop. I'm not sure about the OP. It will be easy to tell though if he builds a small loop outside the case like I did with only a pump and his rads and continues to see color change.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> So you pulled every o-ring out of every block and cleaned all the crevices around all of them? Including your GPU blocks? You might not think that anything is stuck in those crevices, but you'd be surprised.


The gpu blocks are new as of this loop, they will be dismantled and cleaned. The monoblock, I replace the o-rings each time to be safe (ordered a few replacement sets from ek), and I'm actually swapping the plexi top this time around as there are stress cracks in my current one from fittings being too tight.

As far as the fittings go, they get a thorough scrub and clean each time, including o-rings so as not to get any leaks along with a tiny amount of airsoft silicone (forget the name of the compound) to condition them.. Takes a long ass time but I enjoy it. Pump gets taken apart and fully scrubbed down as well. If I can take it apart, I will and do. Just wish rads were more serviceable.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Based on some posts in this forum I thought boiling water was considered bad for rads?


hmm it should make no problems normaly..... Maybe someone who had trouble with boiling water in the rads know better.

The Rad must be full metal. I think ot water can damage o-rings and so on.. but not metal


----------



## poisson21

Even the o ring are fine, they can handle more than 100°C.


----------



## Trestles126

Got some Mnpctech cnced aluminum feet for my bh4 as well as some new black slim fans believe they are made by prolimatech. They deffinetly look better than the white bladed silverstones I had before


----------



## muzammil84

Hi all, just finished my project *minimAl*, for more pics see my build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1635462/build-log-scratch-sponsored-minimal-by-likwid-mods


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Hi all, just finished my project *minimAl*, for more pics see my build log:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1635462/build-log-scratch-sponsored-minimal-by-likwid-mods
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That actually turned out very nice, mellow in its aesthetics.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Fill the ads with boiling water. shake them till the rad is touchable/cooled down while shaking. Do this 2-3 times and the blue should be gone.
> 
> Maybe to be save mix vinegar in the boiling water. But do this only with an open window!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Based on some posts in this forum I thought boiling water was considered bad for rads?
Click to expand...

Don't know why. You cannot get Distilled hot enough to melt the solder in the Radiator and boiling hot distilled will dissolve any dies left over during a flush. I use a 50/50, 20/80 then 0/100(3) Vinegar/Distilled solution for cleaning and flushing my Rads.

I get that there is Blitz now but there is nothing wrong with Boil and flushing water through most Radiators. I'm not sure about cheap Radiators but the ones I use aren't cheap and should easily hold up to that.

~Ceadder


----------



## Dortheleus




----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Hi all, just finished my project *minimAl*, for more pics see my build log:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1635462/build-log-scratch-sponsored-minimal-by-likwid-mods


One of nicer builds i seen.


----------



## Kimir

Spoiler when you quote pics, please.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Spoiler when you quote pics, please.


I second this!


----------



## dracotonisamond

I finally got everything painted for my external watercooling box after the wind stopped blowing every day for weeks.
Here is the assembled bottom section


i forgot to order wires for the LED strips that go on the middle plate, so once i have those soldered up i should be able to assemble the whole thing tonight.
more pictures soon.


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond*
> 
> I finally got everything painted for my external watercooling box after the wind stopped blowing every day for weeks.
> Here is the assembled bottom section
> 
> 
> i forgot to order wires for the LED strips that go on the middle plate, so once i have those soldered up i should be able to assemble the whole thing tonight.
> more pictures soon.


That should be a hell lot of cooling power!
Also looks very clean so far. Assuming that will all be covered by some mesh material?


----------



## dracotonisamond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> That should be a hell lot of cooling power!
> Also looks very clean so far. Assuming that will all be covered by some mesh material?


ive been using eighth inch aluminum mesh with quarter inch holes so far(you can see a bit of it on the right there)
the radiator section is designed to be sealed off from the pump, reservoir and electronics section.
the chassis is also big enough to accommodate 560mm radiators in the future with a different set of baffles and rails.

i havent cut the side or top panels yet as they are not needed to get it running but they will use the same mesh as well as some polycarbonate i have.


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond*
> 
> ive been using eighth inch aluminum mesh with quarter inch holes so far(you can see a bit of it on the right there)
> the radiator section is designed to be sealed off from the pump, reservoir and electronics section.
> the chassis is also big enough to accommodate 560mm radiators in the future with a different set of baffles and rails.
> 
> i havent cut the side or top panels yet as they are not needed to get it running but they will use the same mesh as well as some polycarbonate i have.


Neat! And pretty durable built.
What kind of fans are those? MLs?


----------



## dracotonisamond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> Neat! And pretty durable built.
> What kind of fans are those? MLs?


yes.
i got a pair of vardars to test initially but i couldn't get over the noise profile.


----------



## docsys

Seems that Corsair has the actual state-of-the-art fans. Have to test them one time in the future. By now I'm pretty happy with my Vardars (F1 1150rpm).


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Fill the ads with boiling water. shake them till the rad is touchable/cooled down while shaking. Do this 2-3 times and the blue should be gone.
> 
> Maybe to be save mix vinegar in the boiling water. But do this only with an open window!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Based on some posts in this forum I thought boiling water was considered bad for rads?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't know why. You cannot get Distilled hot enough to melt the solder in the Radiator and boiling hot distilled will dissolve any dies left over during a flush. I use a 50/50, 20/80 then 0/100(3) Vinegar/Distilled solution for cleaning and flushing my Rads.
> 
> I get that there is Blitz now but there is nothing wrong with Boil and flushing water through most Radiators. I'm not sure about cheap Radiators but the ones I use aren't cheap and should easily hold up to that.
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I went back and searched the thread and seemed the boiling issue was trying to hold the rad with boiling water in it. I knew there was something about it, just couldn't remember what exactly.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I went back and searched the thread and seemed the boiling issue was trying to hold the rad with boiling water in it. I knew there was something about it, just couldn't remember what exactly.


If you aren't smart enough to wear gloves when working with boiling water and metal, you probably shouldn't be working on computers. The intelligence level simply isn't there.


----------



## Streetdragon

Maybe he likes it hot gigedi gigedi.

Bu if you filled the rads with hot/boiling water, dont close them. hot water -> steam -> preasure and so on. i used one of this preasure plugs


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I went back and searched the thread and seemed the boiling issue was trying to hold the rad with boiling water in it. I knew there was something about it, just couldn't remember what exactly.
> 
> 
> 
> If you aren't smart enough to wear gloves when working with boiling water and metal, you probably shouldn't be working on computers. The intelligence level simply isn't there.
Click to expand...

I dunno, I put boiling water through my HWLabs Stealth 360 an shook it with my bare hands. Kinda hot but it was negligibly so. Of course I use to grab hot trays with my bare hands out of a steam cabinet when I worked fast food. Those are roughly 300* but I didn't have far to go an had a couple hand towels if they were too hot. Can't store hot food below 250*-300* . I don't have a lot of sense of heat in my fingers. Although I did feel it when I lit a sparkler in the wind a few years back.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## khemist

My Define c TG for now, just have to remove the 90 fitting at the top and have a bend instead.


----------



## lzyla

Hi Guys,
This is imy first watercooling custom loop build ever.
It is still quite a work in progress as I am planning to move it to a custom made concerete + wood + glass desk case soon.
I am happy with the tubes - it was my first time and I didn't waste single one.
I am thinking of using copper or stainless steel pipes though.







What do you think?
picture of the custom made cover here - it was aircooled back then though


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzyla*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> This is imy first watercooling custom loop build ever.
> What do you think?


Looks good. You over-complicated the routing, but besides that, good job.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I went back and searched the thread and seemed the boiling issue was trying to hold the rad with boiling water in it. I knew there was something about it, just couldn't remember what exactly.
> 
> 
> 
> If you aren't smart enough to wear gloves when working with boiling water and metal, you probably shouldn't be working on computers. The intelligence level simply isn't there.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't know, I've never had to use boiling water in any parts of my loop and never had an issue, but thats just me.


----------



## lzyla

Thank you for your comment.
Is it rad between gpu and cpu that makes it overcomplicated?
This routing was actually fitting the parts I ordered (xflow 280 top rad) and i thought it would only be better for the water to be cooled even a tiny bit before reaching CPU.
The parts ordered may not have been the perfect solution for mATX Phanteks evolv but I have managed to fit 280 + 140 rads.
What do you think about its cooling capacity?
How could that be measured in real life?
I overclocked 7700k to 4800 and my rams to 3466 cl15 (from 3200 cl15)
undervolted cpu a bit to adaptive 1.200 and offset - 0.35
My temps are around 63-64 for Realbench and spiking to 69 in Xt.
Those temps doesnt seem very low to me. I was at around 71-79 on air.


----------



## dwolvin

Well, did you have that amount of overclock before? I'd personally guess that it's a bit high, but that might just be the amount of airflow and the amount of radiator area. Still a good looking system!


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzyla*
> 
> Thank you for your comment.
> Is it rad between gpu and cpu that makes it overcomplicated?
> This routing was actually fitting the parts I ordered (xflow 280 top rad) and i thought it would only be better for the water to be cooled even a tiny bit before reaching CPU.
> The parts ordered may not have been the perfect solution for mATX Phanteks evolv but I have managed to fit 280 + 140 rads.
> What do you think about its cooling capacity?
> How could that be measured in real life?
> I overclocked 7700k to 4800 and my rams to 3466 cl15 (from 3200 cl15)
> undervolted cpu a bit to adaptive 1.200 and offset - 0.35
> My temps are around 63-64 for Realbench and spiking to 69 in Xt.
> Those temps doesnt seem very low to me. I was at around 71-79 on air.


The route from the top radiator to the inlet on the reservoir. You could've easily ran that route to the top of the reservoir and saved yourself a lot of bends and length.

There's too many variables to calculate a loops cooling capacity and that cooling capacity varies a lot on fans and fan speeds.

But those temps don't seem good for the cooling capacity you should have with an undervolted CPU. I would check seating and TIM application, and maybe check out your fan curves.


----------



## nwkrep82

*ASUS ROG STRIX Z270I GAMING ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-I GAMING

Intel Core i7-7700K Intel Core i7-8700K

Nvidia Titan Xp (2017)

G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3200

(2X) 1 TB Samsung 960 Evo M.2

Corsair SF600

XSPC Ion Pump/Reservoir

EK-FB ASUS Z270I Strix RGB Monoblock

EK-FC Titan X Pascal - Nickel Water Block

EK-CoolStream PE 240 (38mm)

EK-CoolStream PE 120 (38mm)

(5X) Corsair HD120 RGB fans

(1X) Corsair HD140 RGB fan

CORSAIR Commander PRO

CORSAIR RGB LED Lighting PRO







Yeh...A lot of stuff to get in there, LOL.











...but I got it all to fit









*

*More Pics...*





*"Taste the Rainbow"*







*Update:*

Went from the 7700K to this (I already owned the delid tool...my 7700K is also delidded)







FYI: The EK-FB ASUS Z270I Strix RGB Monoblock fits perfectly on the ASUS Z370I Strix.

However, the RGB strip in the monoblock is NOT compatible with the Z370I.

The Strix Z370I only has a 3-pin addressable RGB header, whereas the Z270I has your standard 4-pin RGB header.

The RGB strip in the monoblock is removable, so I just put in a compatible addressable RGB strip. I cut the strip to fit and sleeved the cable.

Works perfectly


----------



## Revan654

I was wondering if anyone has any ideas what would be the best way to connect these two points.

*Small Note* My Tubing is Glass, So the bends will be very limited.


----------



## Dortheleus

This build is very good. Congrats!!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has any ideas what would be the best way to connect these two points.
> 
> *Small Note* My Tubing is Glass, So the bends will be very limited.


I would say use a duel rotary 90 or even a triple rotary than piece a few extenders until you can have a small 90 glass bend or straight tube. Not sure to many other options. I would have the bend go down for looks to match the bend below the gpus but it's whatever works or looks good for you


----------



## Jyve

Hi all. So after some much unneeded upgrades and purchases I'm about ready to tear apart my loop, throw my rig in a new case and redo it all.

Ive purchased this



And am wondering where the best place to put the plug. I read somewhere that using one of the unused gpu plugs isn't a good idea. If I remember correctly, flow impedance was mentioned as the reason. If this is the case, any suggestions where? I don't have a multiport top for my pump/res, and I'd prefer not to use a T splitter but I will if I have to.

I'm hoping someone will pop up and tell me the unused gpu port is actually ok. I suppose another option would be the drain valve, but I'd prefer not to as it'd not be very attractive there, and I believe it doesn't get a good enough flow to show an accurate fluid temp.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.


----------



## sli_shroom

got extra ports on the bottom of your res?

or by chance are you using a pump top with multiple inputs/outputs? you would be measuring a bit of pump dump if you went this route but the whole loop will basically equalize anyways


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> got extra ports on the bottom of your res?
> 
> or by chance are you using a pump top with multiple inputs/outputs? you would be measuring a bit of pump dump if you went this route but the whole loop will basically equalize anyways


That's a no on both. Simple res top with the single port for filling. The pump/res is a combo ek unit. The pump itself only has the single in and out.

I will have a T fitting on probably the IN for the drain valve. I suppose I could use another on the out to put the sensor on.

I'll also be using soft tubing so that might make things a bit easier once I get down to work.


----------



## sli_shroom

not sure if you are invested in that sensor, but here is an inline option that would be a cleaner/easier install since you could put it anywhere in the loop and it wont affect flow.



https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Inline-Temperature-Sensor-Nickel/dp/B00EUREXUM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1508985885&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=phobya+temperature+sensor&psc=1

you would have to pick up barbs (or connectors for hard line if that is what you are using).

i have been using one of the phobya sensors for years and havent had any issues. i used a male-male adapter and mounted it to my rad output with a barb for soft tubing on the other side.

you would have to compare prices...but if you already have the sensor you pictured it would probably be about the same price to buy a T and a couple barbs to use it as it would be to buy a different sensor and a couple barbs


----------



## Excession

Easiest thing to do would be to avoid the problem entirely and get one of those inline temperature sensor fittings from Aquacomputer.


----------



## Jyve

I already have the t fitting and extra compression fittings so there's no cost there. Had I known I was gonna go this far in this 'refresh' of my rig I probably would've gotten something like you have pictured. That coupled with the tiny lcd would've been ideal.

As it stands this is what I have so I'll just have to figure it out once I get rolling. Sounds like a T off a rad or the pump will have to do. I'll know more once I get going.


----------



## Chaoz

I bought this not too long ago. Still need to add it to my loop.


I'm going to use it ic.w. the same XSPC temp display.

I had one of those temp sensors plugs aswell, but my bottom port of my reservoir leaks when I add that plug to it.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Hi all. So after some much unneeded upgrades and purchases I'm about ready to tear apart my loop, throw my rig in a new case and redo it all.
> 
> Ive purchased this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And am wondering where the best place to put the plug. I read somewhere that using one of the unused gpu plugs isn't a good idea. If I remember correctly, flow impedance was mentioned as the reason. If this is the case, any suggestions where? I don't have a multiport top for my pump/res, and I'd prefer not to use a T splitter but I will if I have to.
> 
> I'm hoping someone will pop up and tell me the unused gpu port is actually ok. I suppose another option would be the drain valve, but I'd prefer not to as it'd not be very attractive there, and I believe it doesn't get a good enough flow to show an accurate fluid temp.
> 
> Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.


Do your radiators have any unused ports? I have mine on the "hot water" in from loop and the "cold water" out to loop on the rads.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well,my heat sink beat the Alphacool one.

http://hwcooling.net/en/duel-of-ssd-coolers-alphacool-hdx-m2-vs-ekwb-ek-m2-en/

Winnah!!


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnCDa8wVj

https://imageshack.com/i/pn1W4nr4j


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,my heat sink beat the Alphacool one.
> 
> http://hwcooling.net/en/duel-of-ssd-coolers-alphacool-hdx-m2-vs-ekwb-ek-m2-en/
> 
> Winnah!!


Pretty sure this surprised absolutely no one, who couldn't have guessed the finned heatsink with much more surface area would beat what's basically a thin slab of aluminum.

The alphacool heatsink is a complete joke to the point reviewing it is pretty pointless.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,my heat sink beat the Alphacool one.
> 
> http://hwcooling.net/en/duel-of-ssd-coolers-alphacool-hdx-m2-vs-ekwb-ek-m2-en/
> 
> Winnah!!


Who's idea was it for the crappy clips it comes with where the black coating falls off on your fingers.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,my heat sink beat the Alphacool one.
> 
> http://hwcooling.net/en/duel-of-ssd-coolers-alphacool-hdx-m2-vs-ekwb-ek-m2-en/
> 
> Winnah!!


I wonder if anyone every did compare test between the two M.2 blocks from AquaComputer & AlphaCool.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I would say use a duel rotary 90 or even a triple rotary than piece a few extenders until you can have a small 90 glass bend or straight tube. Not sure to many other options. I would have the bend go down for looks to match the bend below the gpus but it's whatever works or looks good for you


The GPU bends have been replaced, I used an old photo which was still use acrylic.

I was thinking dual 90 or some 45/60/30 degree fittings might be the only options I have from getting from point A to Point B.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> Easiest thing to do would be to avoid the problem entirely and get one of those inline temperature sensor fittings from Aquacomputer.


Those temp fittings not give you a good reading on water temps. There just a extensions fitting with a normal temperature probe wrapped around the fitting on the outside.


----------



## Ceadderman

I guess I am done with Thermal Grizzly. Back in mid March I purchased 3ml of their Hydronaut. It was doo doo to apply from the very first but not having ever used it I figured Hydronaut simply was that way. I only used it for two applications and closed it up tight and sealed it up in the ZipLoc bag and put it on the shelf which is in a cool dry area in the house.

Couple months passed and I was having issues with my system so I had to get under the hood and check things. This required TIM reapplication. You guys know how that is. Well nothing. You cannot push any out and there is no reason for that at all. The applicator will not budge, no matter how hard I push the plunger.

I contacted them and they concurred with my assessment and told me 3 weeks ago that they would send me a refund through PayPal. I waited a week and a half and contacted them back and they told me that it was in their Finance department. I contacted them back and offered that a replacement tube would be fine, hoping that it would simplify the issue as I would've been replacing this tube with another with the refund. Yeah no. I haven't heard anything back at all and there is no refund in my PayPal.

So I am done with Thermal Grizzly. I had high hopes for them but if this is how they treat the consumer, I am done.









I guess that I will stick with the tried and true G751 and Ektotherm. I have tubes of the latter that are older than this Hydronaut that still work just fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,my heat sink beat the Alphacool one.
> 
> http://hwcooling.net/en/duel-of-ssd-coolers-alphacool-hdx-m2-vs-ekwb-ek-m2-en/
> 
> Winnah!!


Yep yep! Was hoping EK would make a passive sink like this eventually. Appears my patience has been rewarded.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Do your radiators have any unused ports? I have mine on the "hot water" in from loop and the "cold water" out to loop on the rads.


No. Unfortunately they don't. Just the standard in and out. I could use one of my t splitters on that over the pump. Might still give the unused gpu port to start out with. It'd be the easiest to swap out should it hurt flow or be wildly unreliable as far as temps go.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> No. Unfortunately they don't. Just the standard in and out. I could use one of my t splitters on that over the pump. Might still give the unused gpu port to start out with. It'd be the easiest to swap out should it hurt flow or be wildly unreliable as far as temps go.


If you answered no free ports, a T splitter was my next suggestion.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> If you answered no free ports, a T splitter was my next suggestion.


Think that's the better option over the t splitter off one of the pump/res ports? Seeing as I'll already have one for the drain valve?

Thank God this new case has plenty of room to work in. The vertical gpu mount will make it a bit more challenging though.


----------



## unholysinz

Phanteks enthoo evolv atx case
Asrock z97 extreme 6
Intel 4770k
Samsung 950 pro 256gb
Samsung 840 pro 256gb
Segate firecuda 2 tb
Evga 1000watts psu
Gtx 1070 seahawk variant
360 xspc slim radiator
240 xspx crossflow radiator
120 creative labs radiator
Corsair sp blue led fans x7
Swiftech apogee xl cpu water block
Swiftech mcp50x water pump

https://youtu.be/_7eWYLI8W7o


----------



## alejandro1254

old gigabyte X58-ud3r
old i7 975
two old GTX 570 in sli
10GB DDR3 triple channel
1 1TB HDD
1 2TB HDD
1 500GB HDD
1 Adata 128gb SSD
1 700w Cooler Master psu for fans, pumps, lights
1 1200w Cooler Master psu
cpu, both gpu, NB, cpu vrm and ram koolance water blocks
3 1080p 24" Samsung monitors
Waiting for 5 RGB fans.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alejandro1254*
> 
> old gigabyte X58-ud3r
> old i7 975
> two old GTX 570 in sli
> 10GB DDR3 triple channel
> 1 1TB HDD
> 1 2TB HDD
> 1 500GB HDD
> 1 Adata 128gb SSD
> 1 700w Cooler Master psu for fans, pumps, lights
> 1 1200w Cooler Master psu
> cpu, both gpu, NB, cpu vrm and ram koolance water blocks
> 3 1080p 24" Samsung monitors
> Waiting for 5 RGB fans.




This reminds me of Nick's 29-piece drum set from Freaks and Geeks.


----------



## wefornes

My build..!!


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> *Think that's the better option over the t splitter off one of the pump/res ports? Seeing as I'll already have one for the drain valve?*
> 
> Thank God this new case has plenty of room to work in. The vertical gpu mount will make it a bit more challenging though.


It depends on what exactly you want to monitor with regard to how your loop is set up. I have a large single loop with dual pumps. The liquid flows from the pump to the loop and then to a bank of rads. I am interested in the temperature coming in to the rads versus the temperature coming out of the rads going back to the reservoir.

The single most important temp for me is the temp out from the rad bank to the res. Use the splitter in a spot that gives you the temperature monitoring you desire.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> It depends on what exactly you want to monitor with regard to how your loop is set up. I have a large single loop with dual pumps. The liquid flows from the pump to the loop and then to a bank of rads. I am interested in the temperature coming in to the rads versus the temperature coming out of the rads going back to the reservoir.
> 
> The single most important temp for me is the temp out from the rad bank to the res. Use the splitter in a spot that gives you the temperature monitoring you desire.


Wait, I thought the temperature eventually reaches equilibrium and will be the same all throughout the loop?


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Wait, I thought the temperature eventually reaches equilibrium and will be the same all throughout the loop?


There is a difference but it's small, the biggest difference will be between the inlet and outlet of the radiator. I think it was something like a 1C difference per 300W of heat that entered the loop? If you know the temp difference and the flow rate there is some math you can do to work out the amount of heat being removed from the loop iirc.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> It depends on what exactly you want to monitor with regard to how your loop is set up. I have a large single loop with dual pumps. The liquid flows from the pump to the loop and then to a bank of rads. I am interested in the temperature coming in to the rads versus the temperature coming out of the rads going back to the reservoir.
> 
> The single most important temp for me is the temp out from the rad bank to the res. Use the splitter in a spot that gives you the temperature monitoring you desire.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, I thought the temperature eventually reaches equilibrium and will be the same all throughout the loop?
Click to expand...

The concept of equilibrium means that the *heat being dissipated from the rad will be at the same rate as the heat being added thru the waterblocks*, and so the coolant temps at any point will remain constant, though there will be temp differences at different points.

Rads have their lowest transfer capability when the coolant is at ambient, while the waterblocks have their greatest transfer ability with the coolant at ambient.

As coolant temp goes up, the rads become more effective while the blocks become less effective.

For a given heat load and ambient temp, there is a point where the capabilities of the rad(s) and blocks match up.


----------



## looniam

^that is what i thought from reading you guys' posts in the last year but decided to keep my n00b mouth closed.


----------



## khemist

https://postimg.org/image/4qfczax0t7/

Ditched the drain (not really needed), the top 90 from the rad for a bend and switched out the BP res top for acrylic, cant really get any light from the res itself because it's the ice Black one.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritronX*
> 
> There is a difference but it's small, the biggest difference will be between the inlet and outlet of the radiator. I think it was something like a 1C difference per 300W of heat that entered the loop? If you know the temp difference and the flow rate there is some math you can do to work out the amount of heat being removed from the loop iirc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The concept of equilibrium means that the *heat being dissipated from the rad will be at the same rate as the heat being added thru the waterblocks*, and so the coolant temps at any point will remain constant, though there will be temp differences at different points.
> 
> Rads have their lowest transfer capability when the coolant is at ambient, while the waterblocks have their greatest transfer ability with the coolant at ambient.
> 
> As coolant temp goes up, the rads become more effective while the blocks become less effective.
> 
> For a given heat load and ambient temp, there is a point where the capabilities of the rad(s) and blocks match up.


Thanks for the explanation. With that said, where is the optimal placement of inline temperature monitor fittings in the loop if I want to base my PWM fan speeds off of the coolant temp?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Any place at all which makes for neater wire routing. Readings throughout the loop would differ very little, and you can compensate for whatever 1-2C difference is there by slightly tweaking the curve.


----------



## Jyve

Thanks for all your suggestions and advice. One last one. Am I correct in that if I decided to purchase one of those pass through sensors like the one previously showed through a pic, I should be able to just plug that 2 pin connector into my current little lcd that came with the plug version I have?

Does that make sense?

Remove plug sensor on my current setup and replace with pass through sensor using current lcd.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Thanks for all your suggestions and advice. One last one. Am I correct in that if I decided to purchase one of those pass through sensors like the one previously showed through a pic, I should be able to just plug that 2 pin connector into my current little lcd that came with the plug version I have?
> 
> Does that make sense?
> 
> Remove plug sensor on my current setup and replace with pass through sensor using current lcd.


Correct. I'm going to do the same thing.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Wait, I thought the temperature eventually reaches equilibrium and will be the same all throughout the loop?


The idea is at a certain point the temps will reach a point of equilibrium or at least close. The inlet temp to the rad bank is typically 1.1 to 1.4°C above the temp I see when leaving the rads going back to the reservoir. I focus more on the rad out temperature as an indicator of a problem - temp alarm setting. That's why it is the most important placement to me. It isn't about having or expecting a major difference during normal day to day operating.

*Edit - I see IT Diva has explained it. I answered straight from email notification.

IT Diva has been a Godsend to me a few times when I was stuck. There are some bright and talented folks here for sure.


----------



## Jyve

I'm glad it should work because I went ahead and ordered it before checking back. I figured it'd be fine. Didn't wanna miss out on free same day shipping!

I guess I'm not very specific in which coolant temp I want to measure. I'm really more interested in it generally.

Ive run my previous loops without one and it never really crossed my mind till my latest 'upgrade' from z97 to x99. Maybe it's because I never paid much attention to the actual components as everything, according to the on board sensors at least, seemed to be running well within what they should be. This time however, the heat coming out of my case seemed, well, for lack of a better word, hot. Gpu backplate is pretty hot to the touch, but I guess I expected that. What I wasn't expecting was just how warm my reservoir was.

Again, I had never really touched it before so this very well be the norm for my rig. Both coretemp, gpuz, and afterburner has all my components looking just fine. 5820k @ 4.5 @ 1.3v and a 980ti @ 1500mhz on a single ek pe 360.

These are gaming loads. Cpu mid/upper 60s and gpu barely touches 50 (usually hovers mid upper 40s). I don't run stress test benchmarks. Only real world. I know p95, occt, kombuster, and the like put unnecessary stress on the components, and my pc will never see that kind of use. I just game for a while and if it doesn't crash I'm happy. Should it crash later, or during a longer session then I dial it down. Nothing mission critical on my rig.

Sorry for the long post. Long day at work so I'm beat up and rambling ?


----------



## dracotonisamond

finally got everything hooked up and running, need to finish bleeding bubbles i think?
leak test.


here is the first string of TM1812 led's running the fastLED demo reel from the arduino mega

still need to do the real programming for them.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Thanks for all your suggestions and advice. One last one. Am I correct in that if I decided to purchase one of those pass through sensors like the one previously showed through a pic, I should be able to just plug that 2 pin connector into my current little lcd that came with the plug version I have?
> 
> Does that make sense?
> 
> Remove plug sensor on my current setup and replace with pass through sensor using current lcd.


yepper...i have the phobya one and have had it connected to a couple different standalone lcds and a couple different temp monitor/fan controllers. worked fine on all of them

i kinda remember hearing that koolance temp sensors use a different resistance value so they only work with koolance products, but i could be remembering that wrong. i havent experienced ir with other brands though


----------



## Excession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Those temp fittings not give you a good reading on water temps. There just a extensions fitting with a normal temperature probe wrapped around the fitting on the outside.


Well yes, in principle the reading from them will lag behind the real water temperature a bit because the fitting will need to be warmed up or cooled down by the water. In practice, however, they respond quite rapidly to variations in load (and, therefore, water temperature). They may not quite be optimal, but they certainly seem good enough for our hobby and they are very convenient to use.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> The idea is at a certain point the temps will reach a point of equilibrium or at least close. The inlet temp to the rad bank is typically 1.1 to 1.4°C above the temp I see when leaving the rads going back to the reservoir. I focus more on the rad out temperature as an indicator of a problem - temp alarm setting. That's why it is the most important placement to me. It isn't about having or expecting a major difference during normal day to day operating.
> 
> *Edit - I see IT Diva has explained it. I answered straight from email notification.
> 
> IT Diva has been a Godsend to me a few times when I was stuck. There are some bright and talented folks here for sure.


Thanks for the explanation. Why would the lower temp (rad out) be better used for indication of a problem though?


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation. Why would the lower temp (rad out) be better used for indication of a problem though?


It wouldn't...That's the whole point of equilibrium. Any area that water touched would be equalized and you could easily tel that there was a problem from any spot.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation. *Why would the lower temp (rad out) be better used for indication of a problem though?*


I could have put it anywhere. It's not a proper or improper placement, it's just where I put it. A change in temperature that can't be accounted for with a change in the ambient is an indication something is wrong, maybe a bad probe, wire broken, whatever.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Waterblock arrived for the Vega 64.







EK Pastel coolant after 10 months left no residue between the fins.


Plexi tops are not for the ham-fisted.


Luckily I ordered a nickel one.


----------



## khemist

Changed a couple of bits in my define c again, Bitspower 50 res now and switched to a D5, also using the Singularity mount minus the bottom section as the res isn't tall enough for it.


----------



## D13mass

Guys, if I have 12 fans on radiators + 3-4 fans on case, how I can connect all these fans to PSU or motherboard?
Should I buy Controller, something like this http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/controllers/15449/phobya-tpc-4x-fan-or-pump-controller-30watt-each-channel-single-bay-5-25?c=12160 ? Or another one, will be cool if Controller would change RPM on fans dependense on loading.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, if I have 12 fans on radiators + 3-4 fans on case, how I can connect all these fans to PSU or motherboard?
> Should I buy Controller, something like this http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/controllers/15449/phobya-tpc-4x-fan-or-pump-controller-30watt-each-channel-single-bay-5-25?c=12160 ? Or another one, will be cool if Controller would change RPM on fans dependense on loading.


PWM or voltage controlled?


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, if I have 12 fans on radiators + 3-4 fans on case, how I can connect all these fans to PSU or motherboard?
> Should I buy Controller, something like this http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/controllers/15449/phobya-tpc-4x-fan-or-pump-controller-30watt-each-channel-single-bay-5-25?c=12160 ? Or another one, will be cool if Controller would change RPM on fans dependense on loading.


if your fans are 3 pin (voltage controlled ) then something similar would do the job but not that exact unit, its only able to control a maximum of 2 fans per channel, so this would likely be a better option https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0098WEQ6U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

however if your running pwm units then you would be better off using something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phobya-8x-4-Pin-Splitter-PWM/dp/B00OD7MO6E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509271590&sr=8-4&keywords=phobya

one for each radiator connected to a pwm header on the mobo, of course you will require a sata connector per unit, and you can get a 4 way one if you have pwm fans on the case or just use some 3pin fan headers and splitters on the mobo headers to run them all....

failing that you can go for a high end (high price) controller thats actually able to run everythign like the aquero units and have full controll over everythign or have it based on temperatures ..... the choice really comes down to what your running and how much your planning ot put into it /


----------



## lexer

Guys i have a question. I had to change the case on one customer build. He insist on a dual loop for better temps in my opinión is not necessary because the setup is "simple". Maybe i'm wrong

Right now is assembled like this, the performance in my opinion is great the CPU at full load AVX is 50+/-ºC and GPU around 38 - 40ºC

-I7 6800K @ Raystorm
-GTX 1070 STRIX @ EK WC
-Phobya G-changer 420mm + EK FANS
-Dual D5 pump @ Speed 3 - At full speed the flow rate is massive


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Guys i have a question. I had to change the case on one customer build. He insist on a dual loop for better temps in my opinión is not necessary because the setup is "simple". Maybe i'm wrong
> 
> Right now is assembled like this, the performance in my opinion is great the CPU at full load AVX is 50+/-ºC and GPU around 38 - 40ºC
> 
> -I7 6800K @ Raystorm
> -GTX 1070 STRIX @ EK WC
> -Phobya G-changer 420mm + EK FANS
> -Dual D5 pump @ Speed 3 - At full speed the flow rate is massive


That setup definitely doesn't require a dual loop. But then again, it's a customer. If they're paying you to build a system, you build it the way they want. It could be they are just future-proofing.

You should tell them it's not really needed, but if they insist, you build it for them. It's not like you're paying them to build their system. They are paying you.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> That setup definitely doesn't require a dual loop. But then again, it's a customer. If they're paying you to build a system, you build it the way they want. It could be they are just future-proofing.
> 
> You should tell them it's not really needed, but if they insist, you build it for them. It's not like you're paying them to build their system. They are paying you.


I know the customer is always right







, but i'm just trying to recommend the best for him because he is a friend


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> I know the customer is always right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but i'm just trying to recommend the best for him because he is a friend


Money is money. Lol I'd charge even more time simply because it takes longer to do dual loops


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> I know the customer is always right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but i'm just trying to recommend the best for him because he is a friend


Are you adding a 2nd radiator for the 2nd loop?


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Are you adding a 2nd radiator for the 2nd loop?


Yeah, he has a spare 240 fat and a 240 slim
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Money is money. Lol I'd charge even more time simply because it takes longer to do dual loops


Yes a dual loop with rigid tube is a lot of work


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Guys i have a question. I had to change the case on one customer build. He insist on a dual loop for better temps in my opinión is not necessary because the setup is "simple". Maybe i'm wrong
> 
> Right now is assembled like this, the performance in my opinion is great the CPU at full load AVX is 50+/-ºC and GPU around 38 - 40ºC
> 
> -I7 6800K @ Raystorm
> -GTX 1070 STRIX @ EK WC
> -Phobya G-changer 420mm + EK FANS
> -Dual D5 pump @ Speed 3 - At full speed the flow rate is massive


If anything the dual loop setup could be less effective. There aren't enough parts in the loop for flow to be increased significantly with dual loops (or parallel flow) and none of the parts is a raging inferno that will destroy performance.

But hey, if a customer wants dual loops, then let them pay you for it. You tried to explain it wasn't necessary so you did your due diligence.


----------



## lexer

Okey thanks for the input guys







. I don't have too much experience with dual loop performance i only build one long time ago (AMD 939 era) lol


----------



## ir88ed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond*
> 
> finally got everything hooked up and running, need to finish bleeding bubbles i think?
> leak test.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is the first string of TM1812 led's running the fastLED demo reel from the arduino mega
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still need to do the real programming for them.


Very cool. Do you have more info/build log on the external cooler?


----------



## D13mass

*0451* and *nanotm* thanks guys, I decided to buy next things:

1. For my PWM fans (I have a few)
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/fan-accessories/17466/phobya-4pin-pwm-auf-8x-4pin-splitter
or
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/cables/fan-cables-und-adptors/19454/phobya-4pin-pwm-auf-6x-4pin-splitter
I already have something like that from aqua for 9 fans, I used it for Mo-Ra3, now I have a few small (420) radiators.

2. For 3pin fans
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/cables/fan-cables-und-adptors/15900/phobya-adapter-4pin-molex-auf-3pin-5v/7v/12v-10cm-schwarz
Just connect them in 5V or 7V.

I decided not to buy controller, because I want to setup RPM only once and forget.

But also I have a new question: I`m looking for new soft tubing, but my problem is I use Propylene Glycol fluid and now my tubing it`s EK-Tube ZMT, maybe someone has the same problem and can recommend tubing?
For instance, I thought about tubing
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/tubing/tubes/10953/masterkleer-schlauch-pvc-16/10mm-3/8-id-uv-aktiv-orange-3-3m-10ft-retail-package?c=2752
but it`s PVC, I googled it and found nice table http://www.absorbentsonline.com/pvc-chemical-compatibility.htm


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Propylene Glycol C1-Fair
C = Fair ‐‐ Moderate Effect, not recommended for continuous use. Softening, loss of strength, swelling may occur.


Next one was choice Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing but from description on performance-pc I realized that it`s also PVC.


----------



## youngjnr

Finished this build























Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> *0451* and *nanotm* thanks guys, I decided to buy next things:
> 
> 1. For my PWM fans (I have a few)
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/fan-accessories/17466/phobya-4pin-pwm-auf-8x-4pin-splitter
> or
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/cables/fan-cables-und-adptors/19454/phobya-4pin-pwm-auf-6x-4pin-splitter
> I already have something like that from aqua for 9 fans, I used it for Mo-Ra3, now I have a few small (420) radiators.
> 
> 2. For 3pin fans
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/cables/fan-cables-und-adptors/15900/phobya-adapter-4pin-molex-auf-3pin-5v/7v/12v-10cm-schwarz
> Just connect them in 5V or 7V.
> 
> I decided not to buy controller, because I want to setup RPM only once and forget.
> 
> But also I have a new question: I`m looking for new soft tubing, but my problem is I use Propylene Glycol fluid and now my tubing it`s EK-Tube ZMT, maybe someone has the same problem and can recommend tubing?
> For instance, I thought about tubing
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/tubing/tubes/10953/masterkleer-schlauch-pvc-16/10mm-3/8-id-uv-aktiv-orange-3-3m-10ft-retail-package?c=2752
> but it`s PVC, I googled it and found nice table http://www.absorbentsonline.com/pvc-chemical-compatibility.htm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Propylene Glycol C1-Fair
> C = Fair ‐‐ Moderate Effect, not recommended for continuous use. Softening, loss of strength, swelling may occur.
> 
> 
> Next one was choice Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing but from description on performance-pc I realized that it`s also PVC.


either of those pwm splitters will work although you would need to daisy chain them together for full fan coverage if the rad fans are all pwm and then run them off a single mobo header (that's how I would do things)

as for the 3 pin fans, if you just want to set them to a single speed but leave in the option for a software controller override it would be better to use the bios to set a standard rpm profile on a single header and again have them all slaved to that output via the splitter (providing they are all the same fan make /model)

onto the tubing, just change fluid to something that's non reactive with pvc, with the number of options available there are soo many better options for a fluid,, it doesn't matter what fluid you pick since its going to need swapping out every 12 months or so anyway, but I would think it was better not to have something that's actively damaging the tubing, but as far as i'm aware all soft tubing is pvc, and only glass hardline would be "safe" to use with antifreeze long term, of course the anti freeze will still eat its way through the rads and the water blocks and the various seals.... much easier to swap to just de-ionised water or readymixed cooling fluid from someone like mayhems /

but if your set on using the antifreeze mix then your limited to thick pipes like those used in cars and then you cant see it moving around /


----------



## unholysinz

Modified the front panel on my enthoo evolv atx case solves airflow problem


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Guys i have a question. I had to change the case on one customer build. He insist on a dual loop for better temps in my opinión is not necessary because the setup is "simple". Maybe i'm wrong
> 
> Right now is assembled like this, the performance in my opinion is great the CPU at full load AVX is 50+/-ºC and GPU around 38 - 40ºC
> 
> -I7 6800K @ Raystorm
> -GTX 1070 STRIX @ EK WC
> -Phobya G-changer 420mm + EK FANS
> -Dual D5 pump @ Speed 3 - At full speed the flow rate is massive


Dual loops are not as efficient as a single loop unless you are running both loops at full capacity.

He will not get better temps.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> It wouldn't...That's the whole point of equilibrium. Any area that water touched would be equalized and you could easily tel that there was a problem from any spot.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I could have put it anywhere. It's not a proper or improper placement, it's just where I put it. A change in temperature that can't be accounted for with a change in the ambient is an indication something is wrong, maybe a bad probe, wire broken, whatever.


Gotcha. Thanks for the confirmation!


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dual loops are not as efficient as a single loop unless you are running both loops at full capacity.
> 
> He will not get better temps.


I don't get why more people don't see this as a logical conclusion. The optimal design is always to use as much surface area as possible for heat rejection, so using 100 percent of available radiator capacity is ideal. If flow rate is a problem just run components in series.

The only way I can see this working is a design where the radiators are marginal but a single component has to run cooler, so CPU would run hotter to keep GPU cooler or vice versa.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I don't get why more people don't see this as a logical conclusion. The optimal design is always to use as much surface area as possible for heat rejection, so using 100 percent of available radiator capacity is ideal. If flow rate is a problem just run components in series.
> 
> The only way I can see this working is a design where the radiators are marginal but a single component has to run cooler, so CPU would run hotter to keep GPU cooler or vice versa.


A lot of people are capable of building a system but do not know particulars or the science behind it. Some of us understand more of the science than others, some less, some fully educated, experienced and very knowledgeable. It's why people ask for help, opinions and advice. There is always that answer you know, but for whatever reason, it just doesn't come to you until someone points it out. That where







comes from.

I knew a fair amount going in. I have learned much from people here at OCN.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I don't get why more people don't see this as a logical conclusion. The optimal design is always to use as much surface area as possible for heat rejection, so using 100 percent of available radiator capacity is ideal. If flow rate is a problem just run components in series.
> 
> The only way I can see this working is a design where the radiators are marginal but a single component has to run cooler, so CPU would run hotter to keep GPU cooler or vice versa.


I've been considering combining my dual loop to 1 given the addtional rad space. I did it the dual loop for asehtetics and quieter operation for when my gpus are pegged at 100% less fans going higher.


----------



## Revan654

^This was hardest part to do, Holding the radiator trying to get the glass tubing into the other fitting. Screwing the radiator bracket in and Also making sure tubing would not crack or snap.

The last glass tubing has been installed. Next step Leak testing. Hopefully the distilled water will remove all the left over residue from cutting the tubing.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I've been considering combining my dual loop to 1 given the addtional rad space. I did it the dual loop for asehtetics and quieter operation for when my gpus are pegged at 100% less fans going higher.


I was overly broad in my statement. Noise levels also play a factor







.

You are a fringe case though. Most people are okay with 480mm of RAD space for a CPU, you're just on the ragged edge







.

I can probably put together some test data that shows how well TR blocks respond to large radiator and pump setups soon. I've been flogging my GPUs too hard to do a fair test of the CPU block (the downside of a serial loop). I should've lapped my Bykski so my testing could have been combined with Chews data.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Progress with my build


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Progress with my build


I know that case but im struggling to remember. PLease remind me and great work btw.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> ^This was hardest part to do, Holding the radiator trying to get the glass tubing into the other fitting. Screwing the radiator bracket in and Also making sure tubing would not crack or snap.
> 
> The last glass tubing has been installed. Next step Leak testing. Hopefully the distilled water will remove all the left over residue from cutting the tubing.


Male to male rotary fitting? Or male to male extender fitting? Would of been a lot easier.


----------



## n8t1308

Delete plz


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Progress with my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work!


----------



## surfinchina

I just finished this loop today. Still got the air bubbles in it lol.
I've designed it for the upcoming Primochill Vue liquid, which is like the Mayhems Aurora but it can be used long term without settling. (Check out the Jayz two cents vid of it!)

Anyway, I designed it so that it has tubes curling around other tubes, flow forming a bit of a pattern and flow disruption at key points to keep the fluid interestingly agitated.
I butchered my old EK loop and now have Monsoon fittings which I really like. I'm thinking silver fluid to go with the white orange and black and give it a bit of bling.

I'm running an EK 420 up top and an EK 360 at the bottom, in an Inwin 303 case.
Vega FE GPU with an EK block.
It's a Gigabyte Aorus 9 with a delidded i9 7900x, running at 5ghz overclock, so I definitely need the rad space.
Just waiting for the fluid now.....

Oh! a cautionary tale - I tried a UV clear fluid for 1 week and despite flushing, pulling everything apart and cleaning it really well, the water I put back in is a bit pink now and parts of my new CPU monoblock are permanently stained. Aargh.



And for the very first time, because I got some nice cables, I tidied up the back too


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Male to male rotary fitting? Or male to male extender fitting? Would of been a lot easier.


If your talking about connecting the two radiators. There was almost no way to get your fingers inside that area to turn them, Couldn't get a proper grip. I tried different fittings but I couldn't connect the two radiators due to the space between Radiator 1 & the wall, Same with the second radiator.


----------



## andre02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Progress with my build


Very nice work, great job. Lots of cooling surface, u must be getting great temps.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Progress with my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> I just finished this loop today. Still got the air bubbles in it lol.
> I've designed it for the upcoming Primochill Vue liquid, which is like the Mayhems Aurora but it can be used long term without settling. (Check out the Jayz two cents vid of it!)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I designed it so that it has tubes curling around other tubes, flow forming a bit of a pattern and flow disruption at key points to keep the fluid interestingly agitated.
> I butchered my old EK loop and now have Monsoon fittings which I really like. I'm thinking silver fluid to go with the white orange and black and give it a bit of bling.
> 
> I'm running an EK 420 up top and an EK 360 at the bottom, in an Inwin 303 case.
> Vega FE GPU with an EK block.
> It's a Gigabyte Aorus 9 with a delidded i9 7900x, running at 5ghz overclock, so I definitely need the rad space.
> Just waiting for the fluid now.....
> 
> Oh! a cautionary tale - I tried a UV clear fluid for 1 week and despite flushing, pulling everything apart and cleaning it really well, the water I put back in is a bit pink now and parts of my new CPU monoblock are permanently stained. Aargh.
> 
> 
> 
> And for the very first time, because I got some nice cables, I tidied up the back too


I like how it looks.

I am curious about the radiator at the top. Looking at the rear view, how does the rad vent? It looks like the power supply blocks air flow and other framework limits air flow also.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Nice work.
> I like how it looks.
> 
> I am curious about the radiator at the top. Looking at the rear view, how does the rad vent? It looks like the power supply blocks air flow and other framework limits air flow also.


2/3 of it vents through the cable management area and out through air vents on the back panel. The back fan vents through the power supply, which seems to work well. The vented air is never going to be as hot as PSU internals anyway. The top fans are a lot quieter than the corsairs at the bottom so I'm pretty sure there's no fan stall from backpressure.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Nice work.
> I like how it looks.
> 
> I am curious about the radiator at the top. Looking at the rear view, how does the rad vent? It looks like the power supply blocks air flow and other framework limits air flow also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2/3 of it vents through the cable management area and out through air vents on the back panel. The back fan vents through the power supply, which seems to work well. *The vented air is never going to be as hot as PSU internals anyway.* The top fans are a lot quieter than the corsairs at the bottom so I'm pretty sure there's no fan stall from backpressure.
Click to expand...

but the temps are higher due to the warmer air and that will effect efficiency and life expectancy of the 105c caps.

not saying anything will start a fire or anything, just that you may need to place it a little sooner than planed(?) it does have a 7 year warranty so there's that.









fwiw, i really like your build and _there is nothing wrong with it._ you do what you have to; just would be nice to see the PSU get its own air.

feel free to ignore me if you think i am being an alarmist. there seems to be alot of those when it comes to PSUs.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> but the temps are higher due to the warmer air and that will effect efficiency and life expectancy of the 105c caps.
> 
> not saying anything will start a fire or anything, just that you may need to place it a little sooner than planed(?) it does have a 7 year warranty so there's that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fwiw, i really like your build and _there is nothing wrong with it._ you do what you have to; just would be nice to see the PSU get its own air.
> 
> feel free to ignore me if you think i am being an alarmist. there seems to be alot of those when it comes to PSUs.


If it was a mining rig or a gaming rig or something I'd worry, but the exhaust temps only get to about 40deg under load so I'm sure the caps are good for that.
The bottom rad exhausting into the case is probably worse because it's heating the mobo and it's the only intake.

Having said all that, my design work only uses all that grunt for about 10 seconds every hour for my renders, so it doesn't even get time to heat up


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> my design work only uses all that grunt for about 10 seconds every hour for my renders,


gotcha.


----------



## fx3861

Need some help/opinions from the masters here in choosing some 120mm fans for my Hwlab Sr2 480mm radiator.. was thinking of going in vardar fans,


----------



## Fleacircus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Progress with my build


Do you have a build log for this? Would love to see more.
Is that top right fan in push or pull? Isn't it completely obstructed?

Looks great so far.


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Need some help/opinions from the masters here in choosing some 120mm fans for my Hwlab Sr2 480mm radiator.. was thinking of going in vardar fans,


I would suggest you to go with Corsair ML120 fans. I tested numerous fans, but this is the most silent even at higher speed.
I love EK products, but Vardars are bit loud for my taste, even at 1000 rpm.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Need some help/opinions from the masters here in choosing some 120mm fans for my Hwlab Sr2 480mm radiator.. was thinking of going in vardar fans,


I like the Vardar NEOs for high performance (up to 2200 RPM) and the new Noctua NF-F12 Chroma (black) for running very quiet even at full speed (1200 RPM).


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> I would suggest you to go with Corsair ML120 fans. I tested numerous fans, but this is the most silent even at higher speed.
> I love EK products, but Vardars are bit loud for my taste, even at 1000 rpm.


+1 for these fans.
I have a drawer full of fans and these are the best 12" fans around for static pressure and quietness.
The Noctuas are also good but the brown is awful. There's a new black one?


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> The Noctuas are also good but the brown is awful. There's a new black one?


Yep. And they have several colors for the rubber corners and extension cables.

New Chromax line (I forgot the x in my last post).


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Yep. And they have several colors for the rubber corners and extension cables.
> 
> New Chromax line (I forgot the x in my last post).


They're not new, tbh. Noctua released black fans around a year ago, which is called the Industrial line. Also with coloured Chromax grommets.

I've had mine for almost a year now.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleacircus*
> 
> Do you have a build log for this? Would love to see more.
> Is that top right fan in push or pull? Isn't it completely obstructed?
> 
> Looks great so far.


Yep
http://www.overclock.net/t/1621361/tomson-pc#post_26427204


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> They're not new, tbh. Noctua released black fans around a year ago, which is called the Industrial line. Also with coloured Chromax grommets.
> 
> I've had mine for almost a year now.


Okay. Then the "new" part is the lower-RPM versions (1500 and 1200 RPM).


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Okay. Then the "new" part is the lower-RPM versions (1500 and 1200 RPM).


Yep chromax fans are new "mainstream" fans
But u can get industrial black ones 2000 or 3000 RPM and buy a chromax corners in many colours


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> They're not new, tbh. Noctua released black fans around a year ago, which is called the Industrial line. Also with coloured Chromax grommets.
> 
> I've had mine for almost a year now.


They're not the same thing, the new Chromax NF-F12 is the black version of the regular NF-F12, not a lower RPM IPPC NF-F12.

The IPPC fans are noticeably louder at the same RPM than the regular NF-F12, so for people that care about noise, the new chromax fans are much better.

Still wouldn't bother with them for the €22 they're charging for them, considering you can get SW3's for €16 which are better in every way.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

+1 for Silent Wings.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1 for Silent Wings.


+2 for silent wings!


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> They're not the same thing, the new Chromax NF-F12 is the black version of the regular NF-F12, not a lower RPM IPPC NF-F12.
> 
> The IPPC fans are noticeably louder at the same RPM than the regular NF-F12, so for people that care about noise, the new chromax fans are much better.
> 
> Still wouldn't bother with them for the €22 they're charging for them, considering you can get SW3's for €16 which are better in every way.


Never said they were the same, you're quoting the wrong guy. Just said that black fans weren't new, that's it. As you can see in the comment I made.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Need some help/opinions from the masters here in choosing some 120mm fans for my Hwlab Sr2 480mm radiator.. was thinking of going in vardar fans,


Gentle Typhoons are the gold standard. It's hard to find a better, higher quality fan for radiator application than these. They are available in PWM as well. Every now and then "that" product comes along and just works.


----------



## Kimir

Vardar ER are great fans for radiator.
I haven't had the Silent wings on my hands yet, but I have some pure wings 2 and I like them.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Vardar ER are great fans for radiator.
> I haven't had the Silent wings on my hands yet, but I have some pure wings 2 and I like them.


Vardar have weird humming noises once it hits 1000 rpm's. SW3 PWM version don't get along with some PWM devices/headers, Plus they have a gap between each fan which doesn't allow that area to be cooled properly.

Corsair ML Pro's are my choice for radiator fans, they push allot of CFM and are very quiet.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Vardar have weird humming noises once it hits 1000 rpm's. SW3 PWM version don't get along with some PWM devices/headers, Plus they have a gap between each fan which doesn't allow that area to be cooled properly.
> 
> Corsair ML Pro's are my choice for radiator fans, they push allot of CFM and are very quiet.


agreed and its like 2 pack for 32 bucks. Don't get why anyone buys vardars when MLs are around. I can only think EK Fan boys.


----------



## fx3861

Thanks all for the recommendations, will be purchasing either Corsair ML120 Pro White or BeQuiet Silent Wing 3 coupled with Phanteks Halos for the rgb effect

Noticed there's a SW3 high speed, any users?


----------



## Bensmooth

Atm just finishing my build been using these moonsoon chain gun fittings loving the look of them, hooked up to a triple rad and a double loop with another double rad with rgb ring fans


----------



## Bensmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> I would suggest you to go with Corsair ML120 fans. I tested numerous fans, but this is the most silent even at higher speed.
> I love EK products, but Vardars are bit loud for my taste, even at 1000 rpm.


For my build i was thinking of adding a few Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B12-4's and since you have tested many are these good to use? I already have ring fan's on my rad's , triple and double rad btw. But still have space for 6 fan's , so was thinking of adding these. Worth it or not?


----------



## Jyve

So recently tore down my loop and getting ready to throw it all in a new case with an additional rad.

My question. I have a swiftech pwm fan hub I plan to hook up my 5 x Gt 2150rpm's to. Am I good to hook up the pwm cable of my d5 to this same hub or am I better off finding a second pwm port on the mobo.

It certainly would make life simpler if I could get away with a single bios pwm curve that controls the fans and the pump rather than dealing with 2 different ones.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> So recently tore down my loop and getting ready to throw it all in a new case with an additional rad.
> 
> My question. I have a swiftech pwm fan hub I plan to hook up my 5 x Gt 2150rpm's to. Am I good to hook up the pwm cable of my d5 to this same hub or am I better off finding a second pwm port on the mobo.
> 
> It certainly would make life simpler if I could get away with a single bios pwm curve that controls the fans and the pump rather than dealing with 2 different ones.


Most Fan hubs only read the first fan and uses that for everything else connected to the hub. It would be better to have a separate source for a D5 pump. Since Pumps speeds can go allot higher then just 2100, Sometimes they need to go higher.


----------



## Jyve

That's true but since it doesn't operate or adjust by rpm but rather by a pwm % I'd think it'd still be good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Anyone know what the Vet day coupon at PPCs is gonna be?









~Ceadder


----------



## frostbite

This is more ghetto rigging

I have just test fitted and cut lines ready, Just waiting for the new 420mm and then when I get a new gfx card will add it to the loop


----------



## golfitmad

Here is my water cooled rig:









IMAG0184.jpg 3070k .jpg file


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bensmooth*
> 
> For my build i was thinking of adding a few Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B12-4's and since you have tested many are these good to use? I already have ring fan's on my rad's , triple and double rad btw. But still have space for 6 fan's , so was thinking of adding these. Worth it or not?


From what I recall eloops have issues in pull due to the blade design, Not sure if this was ever corrected or not. Also eloops are a bit thicker then your normal 25mm fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> agreed and its like 2 pack for 32 bucks. Don't get why anyone buys vardars when MLs are around. I can only think EK Fan boys.


Not everyone checks out reviews before buying fans, The may grab them at the same time they buy parts at the EK store. Others have brand loyalty (This is specially noticeable with Noctua). I never got what was so special about Noctua.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfitmad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my water cooled rig:


Or you could use the img code instead of the attachment code.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Or you could use the img code instead of the attachment code.


I downloaded that picture, then saw he had a post count of 2 and freaked out thinking I downloaded a virus.


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bensmooth*
> 
> For my build i was thinking of adding a few Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B12-4's and since you have tested many are these good to use? I already have ring fan's on my rad's , triple and double rad btw. But still have space for 6 fan's , so was thinking of adding these. Worth it or not?


Those are good fans, but personally i get better performance with ML120. Also ML120 are quiter.


----------



## Bensmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> This is more ghetto rigging
> 
> I have just test fitted and cut lines ready, Just waiting for the new 420mm and then when I get a new gfx card will add it to the loop


look at that sagging flexi tube and the cut's arent straight either as you can see the slant in the lower right hand side of the tube going to the pump O.O


----------



## Bensmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> Those are good fans, but personally i get better performance with ML120. Also ML120 are quiter.


Thanks


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bensmooth*
> 
> Thanks


You are welcome. I have 6xML120 in my system


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bensmooth*
> 
> look at that sagging flexi tube and the cut's arent straight either as you can see the slant in the lower right hand side of the tube going to the pump O.O


The tube going to the pump is now straight, needed to be heated in some hot water,

The rest of it wont be sagging when the system is clamped up and filled, as for the cut its only that tube to the pump from the I/O slot but as my case doesn't have a window I don't really care much for looks


----------



## elderan

This is my latest project. Almost done, few minor things to finish. Everything is 100% aura sync compatible. Let me know what you think.

7980XE Delided
2x Asus Strix 1080TI OC
2x Samsung 960 Pro 2TB
G.Skill 64GB 3200
Corsair AX1500i

3x XSPC 480 Rads
12x Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 120
2x EKWB D5 Pumps
2x EKWB Aura Sync RGB Res
EKWB Monoblock
2x Bitspower GPU Waterblocks


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> This is my latest project. Almost done, few minor things to finish. Everything is 100% aura sync compatible. Let me know what you think.
> 
> 7980XE Delided
> 2x Asus Strix 1080TI OC
> 2x Samsung 960 Pro 2TB
> G.Skill 64GB 3200
> Corsair AX1500i
> 
> 3x XSPC 480 Rads
> 12x Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 120
> 2x EKWB D5 Pumps
> 2x EKWB Aura Sync RGB Res
> EKWB Monoblock
> 2x Bitspower GPU Waterblocks


----------



## Chaoz

Woop, pre-ordered Primochill's Vue coolant. Bought Sterling Silver and UV Cobalt. Can't wait.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Woop, pre-ordered Primochill's Vue coolant. Bought Sterling Silver and UV Cobalt. Can't wait.


Lemme know how it is after 6 months and if it's good I'll jump in lol.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Lemme know how it is after 6 months and if it's good I'll jump in lol.


Will do, if I don't forget it. Send me a PM if I forget. Apparently it should last up to 8 months.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Apparently it should last up to 8 months.


This was disappointing when I read it in the Warnings section. I was expecting "long term" to be longer than six to eight months.

Was eagerly awaiting this coolant. Might not use it now because flushing a loop twice a year is a pain in the ass.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Apparently it should last up to 8 months.
> 
> 
> 
> This was disappointing when I read it in the Warnings section. I was expecting "long term" to be longer than six to eight months.
Click to expand...

I'm hoping that's just a conservative estimate and that it will last a year. $25 a bottle is pretty steep for 8 months. I ordered 3 for my loop, most I've spent on coolant but it'll be worth it if it lasts.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> This was disappointing when I read it in the Warnings section. I was expecting "long term" to be longer than six to eight months.
> 
> Was eagerly awaiting this coolant. Might not use it now because flushing a loop twice a year is a pain in the ass.


I'm a bit of a watercooling newbie and have changed up my loop / replaced the coolant about 6 times in the couple of years I've been doing it, so six to eight months is an eternity...
So I ordered the silver. I just wish they had an orange!
I did this loop last week with the vue in mind. Has a few interesting corners and crossovers.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Just wanted to share my first watercooled build.
Here are some pictures.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> I'm a bit of a watercooling newbie and have changed up my loop / replaced the coolant about 6 times in the couple of years I've been doing it, so six to eight months is an eternity...
> So I ordered the silver. I just wish they had an orange!
> I did this loop last week with the vue in mind. Has a few interesting corners and crossovers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that in In Win 303 case? Looks stuffed (and top heavy) with that 420 rad in there.

Looking at doing something similar with my next build, but with a second 360 instead of the 420. Did you have to mod anything to get the 360 in the bottom? And is your 7900X delidded?

Still debating on the VUE ... hearing the siren call of the Candy Purple SX. I don't have to make a decision right away though, as my build won't be until February or so.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Is that in In Win 303 case? Looks stuffed (and top heavy) with that 420 rad in there.
> 
> Looking at doing something similar with my next build, but with a second 360 instead of the 420. Did you have to mod anything to get the 360 in the bottom? And is your 7900X delidded?
> 
> Still debating on the VUE ... hearing the siren call of the Candy Purple SX. I don't have to make a decision right away though, as my build won't be until February or so.


I think the VUE will add some movement and bulk to the bottom of the case, take some of the top heaviness out...
The bottom rad bolted straight in to the provided holes, but you need to either get a mobo that has a side USB header or get a USB header low profile adapter. It's quite tight against the motherboard.
Yes the 7900x is delidded and 2x360s should be enough to take cooling out of the equation. It'll just be down to the silicone lottery as to your overclock.
I'm running stable at 4.9 with 28deg on a 23deg day and max 80.
It's a great case, but I'm glad I got VRM cooling for these X299s.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> I think the VUE will add some movement and bulk to the bottom of the case, take some of the top heaviness out...
> The bottom rad bolted straight in to the provided holes, but you need to either get a mobo that has a side USB header or get a USB header low profile adapter. It's quite tight against the motherboard.
> Yes the 7900x is delidded and 2x360s should be enough to take cooling out of the equation. It'll just be down to the silicone lottery as to your overclock.
> I'm running stable at 4.9 with 28deg on a 23deg day and max 80.
> It's a great case, but I'm glad I got VRM cooling for these X299s.


I won't be delidding mine, though I will be using a monoblock. Probably going to go with MSI for MB and GPU as I want to get away from my comfort zone (Asus and EVGA) for once.

One other question ... can you mount a 25mm fan between the hex grille (in the middle, not the side panel) and the power supply? I want to use a 60mm rad and it won't fit on the same side with the fans according to the In Win website.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> I won't be delidding mine, though I will be using a monoblock. Probably going to go with MSI for MB and GPU as I want to get away from my comfort zone (Asus and EVGA) for once.
> 
> One other question ... can you mount a 25mm fan between the hex grille (in the middle, not the side panel) and the power supply? I want to use a 60mm rad and it won't fit on the same side with the fans according to the In Win website.


There's only about 5mm gap there.
Between the PSU and the front of the case is a space 280 long x145 high. This may get some comment, but I see absolutely no problem with having 2 fans there and leaving a bit of the rad without moving air.
I tried this on the bottom for a while. Actually I only had one of the three fans on the 360. I put another GPU there temporarily.
It made a difference of about 5 degrees under load.
If you use 2 140 fans and shroud it up so that it sucks properly you'd get about as good as 3 120 fans.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> There's only about 5mm gap there.
> Between the PSU and the front of the case is a space 280 long x145 high. This may get some comment, but I see absolutely no problem with having 2 fans there and leaving a bit of the rad without moving air.
> I tried this on the bottom for a while. Actually I only had one of the three fans on the 360. I put another GPU there temporarily.
> It made a difference of about 5 degrees under load.
> If you use 2 140 fans and shroud it up so that it sucks properly you'd get about as good as 3 120 fans.


Might have to do that ... and then add a 120 rad in the rear to make up the loss.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> There's only about 5mm gap there.
> Between the PSU and the front of the case is a space 280 long x145 high. This may get some comment, but I see absolutely no problem with having 2 fans there and leaving a bit of the rad without moving air.
> I tried this on the bottom for a while. Actually I only had one of the three fans on the 360. I put another GPU there temporarily.
> It made a difference of about 5 degrees under load.
> If you use 2 140 fans and shroud it up so that it sucks properly you'd get about as good as 3 120 fans.


Even with 2 fans, that's still 2 more than my SE360.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Just wanted to share my first watercooled build.
> Here are some pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










nice build and nice pics


----------



## Neonkore

Hi All,

Just wanted to share my first WC build. Overall i'm pretty happy with it. The case is an InWin-909 - it's not great for WC or air cooling but I think it makes up for it in the looks department. It's also extremely heavy with everything in it hence the scaffold prop under the desk!

I originally wanted the pump/res combo up the top but wasn't sure about the pump getting fed without sucking in some occasional air so went safe - unfortunately it meant I couldn't get a second card in the case as was originally planned.

The build is about a 50/50 split for gaming/work (rendering, simulations, modelling etc). Threadripper runs hot but so far i've seen about a 10 deg drop compared to the H115i AIO I had on it before.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonkore*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Just wanted to share my first WC build. Overall i'm pretty happy with it. The case is an InWin-909 - it's not great for WC or air cooling but I think it makes up for it in the looks department. It's also extremely heavy with everything in it hence the scaffold prop under the desk!
> 
> I originally wanted the pump/res combo up the top but wasn't sure about the pump getting fed without sucking in some occasional air so went safe - unfortunately it meant I couldn't get a second card in the case as was originally planned.
> 
> The build is about a 50/50 split for gaming/work (rendering, simulations, modelling etc). Threadripper runs hot but so far i've seen about a 10 deg drop compared to the H115i AIO I had on it before.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


Having a CPU block that covers all the cores properly does wonders as you noticed compared to the H115. Still I think a 240mm and a 360mm rad it more than enough for a 2 component build even if it contains a 1080Ti and a Threadripper. It looks good









On a second note, what happened to all the hastily put together first attempts (you know, soft tubing not cut to length, horrible cable routing.... and so on)? I think I remember seeing a lot of those a few few years back, have people just become better at assembling their stuff or is it just that not everyone is sharing any more?


----------



## Neonkore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Having a CPU block that covers all the cores properly does wonders as you noticed compared to the H115. Still I think a 240mm and a 360mm rad it more than enough for a 2 component build even if it contains a 1080Ti and a Threadripper. It looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a second note, what happened to all the hastily put together first attempts (you know, soft tubing not cut to length, horrible cable routing.... and so on)? I think I remember seeing a lot of those a few few years back, have people just become better at assembling their stuff or is it just that not everyone is sharing any more?


Thanks mate. Yes the block size sure does wonders, but the fin area is even more important - the TR4 EK block for example is a chronic under performer because of its poor fin area. Yes it's probably overkill now but I did size it for a second 1080ti, when I couldn't fit it all I returned the second GPU block but kept the radiators. It does mean I can run my fans quite low thankfully.

Ha! I did stuff up my first bend by overheating it but the rest went well. I think the biggest hassle is getting accurate measurements - 1 of the 4 holes I needed to drill through the case was off by 2mm and one of the 4 bend tubes was slightly too long on one of the lengths (but thankfully hidden behind the res) - for anyone reading this measure centreline to centreline and then subtract the IR+0.5t for the bend point. There are a lot of Youtube videos and resources out there and forums like this so I think people are just more confident to go for it.


----------



## rolldog

Ok, I've been working on a new build, and I decided to try borosilicate glass tubing instead of acrylic. I've decided that I don't have enough patience to work with glass tubing. After going through 4 pieces of tubing, I was finally able to get nice clean cuts and chamfered ends, but my tubing ended up being a little too long. If it was acrylic, I could probably make it fit, but glass doesn't give any.

So, to keep my blood pressure down, I decided to order some acrylic tubing. Because I recently moved and had to put this build on hold, I just want to finish this build as soon as possible. Maybe a few months down the road, I'll try the glass tubing again, but for now, I can't deal with it.

I have one question I know someone can probably answer for me. I've always used acrylic tubing in my builds, but I've seen quite a few people use PETG tubing instead. I've never used it before. What's the biggest difference between the acrylic and the PETG? Is the PETG easier to bend than acrylic? Is that the only difference? Before I order some tubing, I just wanted to find out what the benefits/drawbacks are of using one over another. I'm only thinking about using the PETG because I've never used it, and I like to use things I've never used before so I can become familiar with it. With the tubing runs with PETG look the same as the acrylic? I'd appreciate some advice before ordering it. Thanks!


----------



## nanotm

if you have a dual loop it would make sense to make it one loop with all the same gear fitted but perhaps have the pump locations changed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Ok, I've been working on a new build, and I decided to try borosilicate glass tubing instead of acrylic. I've decided that I don't have enough patience to work with glass tubing. After going through 4 pieces of tubing, I was finally able to get nice clean cuts and chamfered ends, but my tubing ended up being a little too long. If it was acrylic, I could probably make it fit, but glass doesn't give any.
> 
> So, to keep my blood pressure down, I decided to order some acrylic tubing. Because I recently moved and had to put this build on hold, I just want to finish this build as soon as possible. Maybe a few months down the road, I'll try the glass tubing again, but for now, I can't deal with it.
> 
> I have one question I know someone can probably answer for me. I've always used acrylic tubing in my builds, but I've seen quite a few people use PETG tubing instead. I've never used it before. What's the biggest difference between the acrylic and the PETG? Is the PETG easier to bend than acrylic? Is that the only difference? Before I order some tubing, I just wanted to find out what the benefits/drawbacks are of using one over another. I'm only thinking about using the PETG because I've never used it, and I like to use things I've never used before so I can become familiar with it. With the tubing runs with PETG look the same as the acrylic? I'd appreciate some advice before ordering it. Thanks!


maybe a stupid question but why not just grab some flexi tubes and slow time the glass tube build ? if your main thing is to get the system up and running then doing it gash to start off with and slowly upgradeing the stuff as you get better at glass surely would be the best approach ?

as to the differnet sorts of tubing, glass is the most inert option so you have a wider choice in what fluids you can use, petg and acrylic both have pro's and cons mostly based around the loop and the fluid your using, as the fluid runs round the loop the tubing can change colour (burn) as it heats up and petg will then "self heal" (go back ot normal) whilst acrylic will keep the distressed look, however both types depending on the fluid in use can also wear thin over time and leave your water block(s) or rad(s) with a layer of gunge on them that clogs up the fins and messes up thermal exchange over time (meaning your parts runn hotter) glass tubing wont do any of these things (in theory) although prolonged high heat will cause distortion.... your best bet for glass is actually to have it custom blown to spec so that when your doing the heating and such your not introducing weak points to the loop that can be damaged later.....

so whilst glass is objectively "the best" for a static system (one that never moves) and for minimal maint requirements its not necessarily the best option for the majority of folks...

oh and glass shouldn't discolour due to dyes whilst the other types of tubing will do /


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Apparently it should last up to 8 months.
> 
> 
> 
> This was disappointing when I read it in the Warnings section. I was expecting "long term" to be longer than six to eight months.
> 
> Was eagerly awaiting this coolant. Might not use it now because flushing a loop twice a year is a pain in the ass.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the world of custom watercooling. With it comes maintenance. When my loop is running I flush it every 6mos(+/-) and only use distilled.

The best schedule I have found is fall back/ spring forward, when batteries in the smoke and carbon monoxide detectors get changed. Good time for dust maintenance too. Why have the system down if I don't perform other maintenance tasks. I figure it takes my 6 hours from start to completion.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rainmaker91

Anyone have any experience running more than 4 ml120s from a single PWM header? I didn't check up on it before I bought the fans and now it's to late to send them back, so I'll be needing some way of powering them that supplies the stupid strength on the PWM signal that Corsair fans seem to want.

I currently have 2 Swiftech PWM hubs, but I'm open to swapping them out if there is any out there that does have a PWM signal amp included. Otherwise I'm looking at making my own which is annoying.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Anyone have any experience running more than 4 ml120s from a single PWM header? I didn't check up on it before I bought the fans and now it's to late to send them back, so I'll be needing some way of powering them that supplies the stupid strength on the PWM signal that Corsair fans seem to want.
> 
> I currently have 2 Swiftech PWM hubs, but I'm open to swapping them out if there is any out there that does have a PWM signal amp included. Otherwise I'm looking at making my own which is annoying.


i run 4 ml140's through one of these and i only got that one because the 4 way was out of stock, one of my kids has a 4 way with 4 ml120's running off it with no problems as well

the fans only really care that they have a good strong +12v although on spin up iirc they can each pull close to 0,82 amps which means most unpowered splitters wont be giving them enough juice for the job, and most headers will struggle with more than one directly attached/

still there good fans for the money and nice n quiet when not running full speed (although mine seem to be running at full speed most of the time I'm doing anything more than browsing but i think thats down to the overclock and my not wanting to see the cpu go above 45 degrees, mostly because i don't believe the temp reading is accurate ever since the ryzen cpu's were released and the updated software started reading 20 degrees lower than i remember it being before hand)


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Welcome to the world of custom watercooling. With it comes maintenance. When my loop is running I flush it every 6mos(+/-) and only use distilled.
> 
> The best schedule I have found is fall back/ spring forward, when batteries in the smoke and carbon monoxide detectors get changed. Good time for dust maintenance too. Why have the system down if I don't perform other maintenance tasks. I figure it takes my 6 hours from start to completion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh I know all about custom liquid cooling - I've been doing it for years. I build a new system every one or two years and all of them are custom liquid cooled. Every one of my loops has worked flawlessly without maintenance except for topping off the fluid.

This was going to be my first with opaque fluid though. I might just try stretching it out to a year. See how long term it really is.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> i run 4 ml140's through one of these and i only got that one because the 4 way was out of stock, one of my kids has a 4 way with 4 ml120's running off it with no problems as well
> 
> the fans only really care that they have a good strong +12v although on spin up iirc they can each pull close to 0,82 amps which means most unpowered splitters wont be giving them enough juice for the job, and most headers will struggle with more than one directly attached/
> 
> still there good fans for the money and nice n quiet when not running full speed (although mine seem to be running at full speed most of the time I'm doing anything more than browsing but i think thats down to the overclock and my not wanting to see the cpu go above 45 degrees, mostly because i don't believe the temp reading is accurate ever since the ryzen cpu's were released and the updated software started reading 20 degrees lower than i remember it being before hand)


If it's a 1600x, 1700x or 1800x then the actual temperature is 20*c lower than the reported one. This is why a lot of software started to show 20*c lower after a while.

Annyway, on the the ml fans. From what I understand they are terrific fans, which is why I have 16 of them on a shelf just waiting for me to finish customizing my case. The issue aparently lies in the way that Corsair fans handle PWM, in that they require a much stronger PWM signal (the blue wire) than normal PWM fans. When you split this signal up to much you end up with the fans behaving strangely, which is why I'm looking at amplifying that signal (it's been dene before, I'm just copying it). Still, if I can get a pre build hub that has all that included then that is a preferable route.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> If it's a 1600x, 1700x or 1800x then the actual temperature is 20*c lower than the reported one. This is why a lot of software started to show 20*c lower after a while.


Interesting, is the temperature reporting the same for the 1900x? I will be getting one here soon. Need to get around and order a block for the chip.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Interesting, is the temperature reporting the same for the 1900x? I will be getting one here soon. Need to get around and order a block for the chip.


No idea, but I doubt it. The reason that the 1600x, 1700x and the 1800x reports it like this is supposedly to have a consistent fan policy across the board. As opposed to the other AM4 CPUs which reports it like normally.

Here is a quote from around Ryzen launch:


Edit: Source


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> If it's a 1600x, 1700x or 1800x then the actual temperature is 20*c lower than the reported one. This is why a lot of software started to show 20*c lower after a while.
> 
> Annyway, on the the ml fans. From what I understand they are terrific fans, which is why I have 16 of them on a shelf just waiting for me to finish customizing my case. The issue aparently lies in the way that Corsair fans handle PWM, in that they require a much stronger PWM signal (the blue wire) than normal PWM fans. When you split this signal up to much you end up with the fans behaving strangely, which is why I'm looking at amplifying that signal (it's been dene before, I'm just copying it). Still, if I can get a pre build hub that has all that included then that is a preferable route.


yeah well i am using an fx8350 cpu, it used to report 30 degrees on idle and up to 50 on load before i started overclocking it, which also corresponds with a few revisions of corsair link software, now it often reports 10>15 degrees on idle and goes up as high as 45 degrees on load, if thats down to it reading the tempt wrong by 20degrees i don't want it going any higher, if its just because they removed the idle offset then its all gravy and my cpu's running super cool for 4.7 on all cores @1.400v... which means i have plenty of headroom for pushing it towards 5ghz but like i said i don't trust the readings so i'm going to stick where i am for now.

as to the pwm splitter, as i said i use the phobya unit and i haven't had any problems although I'm running the blue led 140mm pro versions of the fan i have 4 of them running through one of the 8 way blocks its possible that the pwm signal line coming out of the h115i pump header is stronger than that supplied by a mobo but i doubt it, all 4 fans spin up at the same speed (well i don't get reverb noises like when there running at different speeds on the h115i) i have them running in push /pull with the rad vertically mounted in the front of the case

if there was a problem then one or more fans just wouldn't spin and my temps would be going up fast if that happened, so far (4 months running them in this configuration) no problems at all with them they all run up and whilst i haven't measured them with a stroboscope they all spin up and look to be moving at about the same speed /


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> yeah well i am using an fx8350 cpu, it used to report 30 degrees on idle and up to 50 on load before i started overclocking it, which also corresponds with a few revisions of corsair link software, now it often reports 10>15 degrees on idle and goes up as high as 45 degrees on load, if thats down to it reading the tempt wrong by 20degrees i don't want it going any higher, if its just because they removed the idle offset then its all gravy and my cpu's running super cool for 4.7 on all cores @1.400v... which means i have plenty of headroom for pushing it towards 5ghz but like i said i don't trust the readings so i'm going to stick where i am for now.


As far as I know this specific thing is related to Ryzen CPUs, though I would suggest going back to an older piece of software (Try HWiNFO64 from sometime before the launch of Ryzen). The FX series does appear to have it's own issues with temperature readings, but I never had one so I can't speak from experience. This post goes in to more details on the FX series if you are interested
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> as to the pwm splitter, as i said i use the phobya unit and i haven't had any problems although I'm running the blue led 140mm pro versions of the fan i have 4 of them running through one of the 8 way blocks its possible that the pwm signal line coming out of the h115i pump header is stronger than that supplied by a mobo but i doubt it, all 4 fans spin up at the same speed (well i don't get reverb noises like when there running at different speeds on the h115i) i have them running in push /pull with the rad vertically mounted in the front of the case
> 
> if there was a problem then one or more fans just wouldn't spin and my temps would be going up fast if that happened, so far (4 months running them in this configuration) no problems at all with them they all run up and whilst i haven't measured them with a stroboscope they all spin up and look to be moving at about the same speed /


Not really how they would behave, supposedly the RPM range becomes smaller the more fans you run. When passing 4 fans or so you may experience the first 4 running fine but the rest of them running at 100%. I'm not posing the question for no reason, as there are indeed plenty of people reporting this. Which is why I wanted specific information on more than 4 of them from a single header, though it is nice that 4 of them seems to work fine at least (that gives me the option of plugging in 4 in each header on my board)


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Welcome to the world of custom watercooling. With it comes maintenance. When my loop is running I flush it every 6mos(+/-) and only use distilled.
> 
> The best schedule I have found is fall back/ spring forward, when batteries in the smoke and carbon monoxide detectors get changed. Good time for dust maintenance too. Why have the system down if I don't perform other maintenance tasks. I figure it takes my 6 hours from start to completion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I still have yet to flush my loop. I filled my loop beginning of this year and haven't flushed once. My Pastel Extreme is still running strong. Only drained my coolant once to add my new GPU to the loop, after that I filled it back up with the same coolant I drained.

I'm really surprised with Mayhems Pastel Extreme. It doesn't even stain and I added some UV Clear Blue dye aswell to it aswell.

It's my first custom loop, so don't have a lot of experience and still learn quite a bit.

Tbh, I actually find coolant that lasts up to 8 months to be fairly long. Especially with something so new like Vue.

The only downside now is that I have to do a thorough flushing and cleaning and such if I want to use Vue and not have it react with the Pastel I currently have. I ordered some Primochill ReBoot to prep my loop for Vue.

So I might take my loop apart to do some proper cleaning, if the ReBoot doesn't flush everything out.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I still have yet to flush my loop. I filled my loop beginning of this year and haven't flushed once. My Pastel Extreme is still running strong. Only drained my coolant once to add my new GPU to the loop, after that I filled it back up with the same coolant I drained.
> 
> I'm really surprised with Mayhems Pastel Extreme. It doesn't even stain and I added some UV Clear Blue dye aswell to it aswell.
> 
> It's my first custom loop, so don't have a lot of experience and still learn quite a bit.
> 
> Tbh, I actually find coolant that lasts up to 8 months to be fairly long. Especially with something so new like Vue.
> 
> The only downside now is that I have to do a thorough flushing and cleaning and such if I want to use Vue and not have it react with the Pastel I currently have. I ordered some Primochill ReBoot to prep my loop for Vue.
> 
> So I might take my loop apart to do some proper cleaning, if the ReBoot doesn't flush everything out.


He mentioned running only distilled, Pastel Extreme has the necessary additives to be ran much longer than that. As per what Mayhems website says it's ethylene based so I would expect about 1-1 1/2 years of runtime without any real issues.

https://www.mayhems.net/collections/pastel-extreme-100ml/products/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I still have yet to flush my loop. I filled my loop beginning of this year and haven't flushed once. My Pastel Extreme is still running strong. Only drained my coolant once to add my new GPU to the loop, after that I filled it back up with the same coolant I drained.
> 
> I'm really surprised with Mayhems Pastel Extreme. It doesn't even stain and I added some UV Clear Blue dye aswell to it aswell.
> 
> It's my first custom loop, so don't have a lot of experience and still learn quite a bit.
> 
> Tbh, I actually find coolant that lasts up to 8 months to be fairly long. Especially with something so new like Vue.
> 
> The only downside now is that I have to do a thorough flushing and cleaning and such if I want to use Vue and not have it react with the Pastel I currently have. I ordered some Primochill ReBoot to prep my loop for Vue.
> 
> So I might take my loop apart to do some proper cleaning, if the ReBoot doesn't flush everything out.
> 
> 
> 
> He mentioned running only distilled, Pastel Extreme has the necessary additives to be ran much longer than that. As per what Mayhems website says it's ethylene based so I would expect about 1-1 1/2 years of runtime without any real issues.
> 
> https://www.mayhems.net/collections/pastel-extreme-100ml/products/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml
Click to expand...

I did indeed. If I were into dyes, it would still likely be the same for me. But I figure colored tubing and LEDs sort of make dyes superficial and spendy compared to a gallon of Distilled every six months.









*Ahem* This moring is Tuesday. Anyone have the discount code for PPCs this Veterans day? Saturday is Veterans day right? I could use the OCN55 code if worse comes to worse but I am a Vet and I would like to take advantage of that code over the long standing code.









~Ceadder


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As far as I know this specific thing is related to Ryzen CPUs, though I would suggest going back to an older piece of software (Try HWiNFO64 from sometime before the launch of Ryzen). The FX series does appear to have it's own issues with temperature readings, but I never had one so I can't speak from experience. This post goes in to more details on the FX series if you are interested
> Not really how they would behave, supposedly the RPM range becomes smaller the more fans you run. When passing 4 fans or so you may experience the first 4 running fine but the rest of them running at 100%. I'm not posing the question for no reason, as there are indeed plenty of people reporting this. Which is why I wanted specific information on more than 4 of them from a single header, though it is nice that 4 of them seems to work fine at least (that gives me the option of plugging in 4 in each header on my board)


i belive you can also daisy chain a couple of those pwm splitters so in theory you could plug 4 splitters into one and run 12 fans from a single header and have each of those splitters run 4 fans giving you 16 fans off a single header but i haven't done so my self (well i only have 4 fans anyhow)

as far as i'm aware the majority of pwm splitters don't actually carry the signal to all output slots (the phobya 8 way one for instance lists only 4 slots as having the controlled output ) so perhaps this is also part of the confusion surrounding the fans /


----------



## Neonkore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Interesting, is the temperature reporting the same for the 1900x? I will be getting one here soon. Need to get around and order a block for the chip.


Threadripper has a 27 degree offset compared to Ryzens 20 degree.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonkore*
> 
> Threadripper has a 27 degree offset compared to Ryzens 20 degree.


Weird, I wonder what the explanation for that is. Maybe a consistent fan curve with Epyc? These offsets just makes me really wonder about their reasoning.


----------



## frostbite

Here is some info on it, with a fix

http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/amd-ryzen-master-software-v1-1-update-fixes-cpu-temperature-reporting.html


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> i belive you can also daisy chain a couple of those pwm splitters so in theory you could plug 4 splitters into one and run 12 fans from a single header and have each of those splitters run 4 fans giving you 16 fans off a single header but i haven't done so my self (well i only have 4 fans anyhow)
> 
> as far as i'm aware the majority of pwm splitters don't actually carry the signal to all output slots (the phobya 8 way one for instance lists only 4 slots as having the controlled output ) so perhaps this is also part of the confusion surrounding the fans /


I did a test run from my Backup system today (basically just a different case, and with an air cooler on the CPU and GPU), and it seems to be working fine with all 8 fans. I have no idea if it's just my Crosshair VI Hero board that gives abnormally high current for the PWM signal or if the hysteria that I read about was all just made up. Currently running 8 Corsair ML120 (from the dual pack) on a single Swiftech PWM hub and Ai Suit is reporting 462rpm at the lowest and 2303rpm at the highest. This is indeed a slightly narrower PWM range than advertised (the box says 400-2400), but I think it's within margin of error.

No idea why it works here or why it doesn't work for someone else, I'm simply relieved that I don't have to pull out the soldering iron again for something that should have worked fine to start with.


----------



## Yukss

Hello guys, i was able to adapt my current TT riing fans to my 560 mm radiator in a simple and best looking way posible (see pictures) my temps are great ( idle 6 to 8c and on load arou 5c lower than my thinner 480 rad).. but, i was wondering if i put 140mm fans which they will cover for fins space should i get maybe 1c even lower? Its so? Which static preasure fans should i buy?




Pictures with the "smaller rad"


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Hello guys, i was able to adapt my current TT riing fans to my 560 mm radiator in a simple and best looking way posible (see pictures) my temps are great ( idle 6 to 8c and on load arou 5c lower than my thinner 480 rad).. but, i was wondering if i put 140mm fans which they will cover for fins space should i get maybe 1c even lower? Its so? Which static preasure fans should i buy?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures with the "smaller rad"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures:


The most common way to fit 120mm fans to a 140mm radiator is to utilize a shroud, an example would be this one from bitspower. The advantage of using something like that shroud compared to the way you did it is that none of the air that gets sucked in to the fan will escape like they do with your current fans (they are not placed towards the frame of the rad and therefore leak air out the sides). You would get a similar effect by using 140mm fans, which in itself would improve temps a bit. Still, the most benefit would be from the fact that most 140mm fans just move more air than 120mm fans. A lot of them have worse static pressure though, so it is wise to look for specialized fans in the 140mm range.

Here are some good 140mm alternatives:

Corsair ML140, they also sell dual packs.
EKWB Vardar 140mm
BlackNoise Noiseblocker Eloop 140mm
Phanteks PH-F140MP
Noctua NF-A14 or it's Industrial cousin if you don't like the colour scheme
Noctua NF-P14s Redux, this one actually has a higher static pressure than the nf-a14 (at least in the last test that I read)
Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3
These are just some of the options mind you. There are also options with RGB lights like the Riing fans that you currently have, but the general theme is that RGB fans tend to be slightly worse for static pressure. The reason for this is that a lot of these speciallized fans have not been released in RGB editions yet. A good option for gettign RGB on them will be Phanteks Halos and Halos Lux as the frame lights up any fan with RGB.

Edit: The choice is yours of course, but from the ones I listed I would likely go with either Phanteks or Corsair.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The most common way to fit 120mm fans to a 140mm radiator is to utilize a shroud, an example would be this one from bitspower. The advantage of using something like that shroud compared to the way you did it is that none of the air that gets sucked in to the fan will escape like they do with your current fans (they are not placed towards the frame of the rad and therefore leak air out the sides). You would get a similar effect by using 140mm fans, which in itself would improve temps a bit. Still, the most benefit would be from the fact that most 140mm fans just move more air than 120mm fans. A lot of them have worse static pressure though, so it is wise to look for specialized fans in the 140mm range.
> 
> Here are some good 140mm alternatives:
> 
> Corsair ML140, they also sell dual packs.
> EKWB Vardar 140mm
> BlackNoise Noiseblocker Eloop 140mm
> Phanteks PH-F140MP
> Noctua NF-A14 or it's Industrial cousin if you don't like the colour scheme
> Noctua NF-P14s Redux, this one actually has a higher static pressure than the nf-a14 (at least in the last test that I read)
> Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3
> These are just some of the options mind you. There are also options with RGB lights like the Riing fans that you currently have, but the general theme is that RGB fans tend to be slightly worse for static pressure. The reason for this is that a lot of these speciallized fans have not been released in RGB editions yet. A good option for gettign RGB on them will be Phanteks Halos and Halos Lux as the frame lights up any fan with RGB.
> 
> Edit: The choice is yours of course, but from the ones I listed I would likely go with either Phanteks or Corsair.


Wow thanks for the detailed answer, i will def look for this options. +rep


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Wow thanks for the detailed answer, i will def look for this options. +rep


No problem. A few pointers on a couple of the fans; The corsair ML series needs to be ran as PWM fans and not voltage rgulated due to the wayt hat the magnetic bearing on them works. The eloops can't be ran pulling from a case/fan grill/radiator without a 1cm thick shroud between, they will work but may make some noises.


----------



## muzammil84

my version of Alphacool Aurora led ring and probably final look of my project minimAl. check out my build log for (loads) more pics.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1635462/build-log-scratch-sponsored-minimal-by-likwid-mods


----------



## mouacyk

Looks very good. Might look cleaner without all the angle fittings though.


----------



## ckool

I actually prefer the angle fittings.


----------



## aaronpiatt

I agree the fittings make it all flow together.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Looks very good. Might look cleaner without all the angle fittings though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckool*
> 
> I actually prefer the angle fittings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronpiatt*
> 
> I agree the fittings make it all flow together.


I built it with bends initially but didn't really like it that much. I think chrome elbow fittings make the whole build more complete and mature.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I built it with bends initially but didn't really like it that much. I think chrome elbow fittings make the whole build more complete and mature.


I agree completely on that. Great looking build there, such a super clean job with the case layout.


----------



## jleslie246

Is anyone here using Primochill Vue yet? Im waiting for the 'white' to become available. Its a bit pricey, as they say not to mix with distilled water to top off. This means Ill need 2 bottles.


----------



## 0ppositeLock

Didn't like any of the cases on the market, so I made a box for my rads.

Nothing fancy, dirt cheap. Easy to maintain and super quiet.

Fans @ 600rpm. Pump @ 50% air/water 8deg max deltaT.

I have a bad camera.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Is anyone here using Primochill Vue yet? Im waiting for the 'white' to become available. Its a bit pricey, as they say not to mix with distilled water to top off. This means Ill need 2 bottles.


Yeah, you have to be extra careful with it -- you even have to minimize air contact or it'll break down.

Still going to use it though. I'm going to be really testing its longevity, keeping it in for at least a year.

New build won't start until February so I've got a while yet.


----------



## Neonkore

Ugh I put in distilled/biocides so I wouldn't have to flush and dry out the entire loop before putting in Vue - sounds like that won't work. I think i'll stay distilled.


----------



## elderan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Is anyone here using Primochill Vue yet? Im waiting for the 'white' to become available. Its a bit pricey, as they say not to mix with distilled water to top off. This means Ill need 2 bottles.


I plan on switching from the thermaltake white to the Primochill Vue White once it comes out.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Is anyone here using Primochill Vue yet? Im waiting for the 'white' to become available. Its a bit pricey, as they say not to mix with distilled water to top off. This means Ill need 2 bottles.
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on switching from the thermaltake white to the Primochill Vue White once it comes out.
Click to expand...

If you've used any dyed fluids in your loop make sure you get a bottle of reboot to prep the loop. And they will void the warranty if you use blitz instead. I already blitzed my system so that's a bit irritating, but at least the reboot is under $10. A drop in the bucket after having to buy 3 bottles of the vue for my massive system lol. I guess I'll have a really clean loop


----------



## alienalvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I built it with bends initially but didn't really like it that much. I think chrome elbow fittings make the whole build more complete and mature.


The whole coloring matches way better than the yellow one now, just a tiny stuff bugs me... a slightly of imbalance gap between the tubing & GPU.


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you've used any dyed fluids in your loop make sure you get a bottle of reboot to prep the loop. And they will void the warranty if you use blitz instead. I already blitzed my system so that's a bit irritating, but at least the reboot is under $10. A drop in the bucket after having to buy 3 bottles of the vue for my massive system lol. I guess I'll have a really clean loop


reboot? any links for that product since i'm goin to use vue on my upcoming built


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> *i belive you can also daisy chain a couple of those pwm splitters* so in theory you could plug 4 splitters into one and run 12 fans from a single header and have each of those splitters run 4 fans giving you 16 fans off a single header but i haven't done so my self (well i only have 4 fans anyhow)
> 
> as far as i'm aware the majority of pwm splitters don't actually carry the signal to all output slots (the phobya 8 way one for instance lists only 4 slots as having the controlled output ) so perhaps this is also part of the confusion surrounding the fans /


Yes, they can be chained. A few years back I spent time with Swiftech support going over this topic. He experimented on his end, I on mine and chaining worked perfectly.


----------



## ricercar

Newest build last night. Lots of short runs with one long run over the top.













The line from pump to CPU had to clear the RAM, which was taller than I expected. I was planning to use a 90 degree fitting on the CPU input, but ended up needing a 45. The pump had to be moved out from the backplate and is currently sitting loose until I can make a bracket to mount it properly.


----------



## Revan654

Not sure if this has been posted yet but just a reminder. If anyone uses Aliexpress to buy any of there fittings from there, They are currently having a massive sale sitewide today only.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you've used any dyed fluids in your loop make sure you get a bottle of reboot to prep the loop. And they will void the warranty if you use blitz instead. I already blitzed my system so that's a bit irritating, but at least the reboot is under $10. A drop in the bucket after having to buy 3 bottles of the vue for my massive system lol. I guess I'll have a really clean loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> reboot? any links for that product since i'm goin to use vue on my upcoming built
Click to expand...

Reboot for a used system and sysprep for a new one. This is what the reps said in discord btw, not sure if it's listed anywhere else.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Not sure if this has been posted yet but just a reminder. If anyone uses Aliexpress to buy any of there fittings from there, They are currently having a massive sale sitewide today only.


Totally worth it. I had a bunch of fittings, heatsinks and among other things thats been sitting on my cart for a few months.

Finally checked out and saved myself around $20+ because of the sale.


----------



## dwolvin

Wow- that's a great answer, I'll throw in that Riing 140's in single color multi-packs are often cheap on Amazon- I just got a three pack of white ones for a rebuild for a bit under $12 a piece.


----------



## Aliveran

First hard tube custom







, in the in win 909.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Wow- that's a great answer, I'll throw in that Riing 140's in single color multi-packs are often cheap on Amazon- I just got a three pack of white ones for a rebuild for a bit under $12 a piece.


Strange you brought up those fans, Someone I was helping both there TT fans both died recently. Before that they kept starting and stopping due to poor wiring. TT products are just garbage and it seems there just getting worse and worse by the year.

Not going to touch my horrible experience I had with there fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you've used any dyed fluids in your loop make sure you get a bottle of reboot to prep the loop. And they will void the warranty if you use blitz instead. I already blitzed my system so that's a bit irritating, but at least the reboot is under $10. A drop in the bucket after having to buy 3 bottles of the vue for my massive system lol. I guess I'll have a really clean loop


Of course there going to say that, they want to buy there product and try discourage your from buying others. Since there radiators are copper it's not going to damage the radiator. If you already ran Blitz through it there no real point in running SysPrep/reboot through it.

24 dollars per bottle for 4 months is a bit high, Specially for something that doesn't have a track record yet. I would need five bottles to fill my entire system, that would around 120 dollars just in coolant(and 360 dollars a year in coolant), The coolant may look nice but not worth the price if you have to refill the system ever 4 months. For now I'll stick with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke atlease until there new coolant is ready.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you've used any dyed fluids in your loop make sure you get a bottle of reboot to prep the loop. And they will void the warranty if you use blitz instead. I already blitzed my system so that's a bit irritating, but at least the reboot is under $10. A drop in the bucket after having to buy 3 bottles of the vue for my massive system lol. I guess I'll have a really clean loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course there going to say that, they want to buy there product and try discourage your from buying others. Since there radiators are copper it's not going to damage the radiator. If you already ran Blitz through it there no real point in running SysPrep/reboot through it.
> 
> 24 dollars per bottle for 4 months is a bit high, Specially for something that doesn't have a track record yet. I would need five bottles to fill my entire system, that would around 120 dollars just in coolant(and 360 dollars a year in coolant), The coolant may look nice but not worth the price if you have to refill the system ever 4 months. For now I'll stick with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke atlease until there new coolant is ready.
Click to expand...

They say the vue fluid is very sensitive (very believable, pastel is the same) and they simply aren't going to test another company's cleaning solution when they've developed something specifically for the vue, so they don't know what's in the blitz or how it may react to any residual traces of it. I do agree that it's probably fine with blitz. But given they won't warranty the fluid if you use blitz, the high cost, and the fact that its a new fluid, it's just not worth the risk of not getting the reboot for an extra $6. If I can get the fluid to last the full 6 months or more, I may consider buying it again, but most likely I'll switch to something cheaper since my loop takes 3 bottles. Definitely going to use it for smaller loops though, assuming it holds up.


----------



## bobfig

spent all day changing over the case and putting the strix 1080 under water. i have to say well worth it in the end.

from a 1070 and a different cpu block



to
Phanteks eclipse p400s
strix 1080 with ek waterblock and back plate
ek d5 pump res
swiftech apogee skf heirloom


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> spent all day changing over the case and putting the strix 1080 under water. i have to say well worth it in the end.
> 
> from a 1070 and a different cpu block
> 
> 
> 
> to
> Phanteks eclipse p400s
> strix 1080 with ek waterblock and back plate
> ek d5 pump res
> swiftech apogee skf heirloom


External rads? The only gripe I really have about that specific case is radiator support, it's gorgeous but really not the greatest for lots of radiator space.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> External rads? The only gripe I really have about that specific case is radiator support, it's gorgeous but really not the greatest for lots of radiator space.


yah i only have my rad external. only way i have had it. biggest issue trying to find a nice case was a way to get the tubes out and be able to hold at least 3 3.5"hdd's.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> yah i only have my rad external. only way i have had it. biggest issue trying to find a nice case was a way to get the tubes out and be able to hold at least 3 3.5"hdd's.


External rads can give you a drain port without the need for a valve if you use QDC fittings. It's a strategy I like to use.

Clean build by the way. Looks nicer in the new case.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> yah i only have my rad external. only way i have had it. biggest issue trying to find a nice case was a way to get the tubes out and be able to hold at least 3 3.5"hdd's.


Yeah, I had that issue a while as well. 3 3.5" drives that was just reused from whenever I upgraded my storage. I think I had a 500gb, a 640gb and a 2tb at the same time. Right now I only have the 2tb though, but seeing as I just removed the entire HDD cage and drive bay cage in my Enthoo Primo I will have to find a different spot for that. Probably going to modify a mount so that I can screw it on from the bottom of the case. I really want a 3.5" drive, even though it's 2tb since I do fully intend on swapping it out with either 4tb or 6tb when I get my backup properly set up.

External radiators are really practical if you have the space for it, and if the case doesn't support pass-through natively you can always just add a pass-through PCI slot.


----------



## nycgtr

Attractive but crappy performing monoblock cpu wise.


----------



## dicom

Why crappy performing monoblock cpu? Do you have "bad" temperatures?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey guys,

What do you use to cut your acrylic tubing ? ... Do those PETG hose cutters work ?


----------



## VoytekBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> Why crappy performing monoblock cpu? Do you have "bad" temperatures?


The cooling engine on the EK monoblock for the Zenith Extreme is pretty bad and isn't designed specificaly for threadripper cpu's.
They don't cover the surface area like they should so it was EK just rushing trying to get a product on the market by using their standard 'intel' cooling engine.

It's a shame. I also have a Supremacy TR4 but I never bother to install it and purchased a Raystorm Neo TR4. As soon as I received the block I saw it wasn't going to cut it.
It's fine if you don't OC but no one spends hundreds of dollars on a custom loop and doesn't overclock I guess.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> What do you use to cut your acrylic tubing ? ... Do those PETG hose cutters work ?


unfortunately, they won't. I use little hand saw with fine blade. Some ppl use Dremel to cut it or scroll saw.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> unfortunately, they won't. I use little hand saw with fine blade. Some ppl use Dremel to cut it or scroll saw.


Damn, I have one of those tiny saws but it is just painful to use ... haha ... should have bought PETG I guess ... XD


----------



## nanotm

would one of these do the job ?

since petg is used in plumbing i would expect plumbing pipe cutters to do the job


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> would one of these do the job ?
> 
> since petg is used in plumbing i would expect plumbing pipe cutters to do the job


That would work for PETG and metal tubing, but acrylic will crack

*::: EDIT :::*

Has anyone seen Barrow's silver fittings in person, are they more chrome or black chrome ?


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> That would work for PETG and metal tubing, but acrylic will crack


ok I'm confused as to why acrylic would crack from some thing that essentially scores its way through the tube as you turn it, unless your one of those ham fisted folks that turns the knurled nut to push the blade through the side wall of the pipe in one go rather than just making contact twist the pipe tighten the blade a touch twist the pipe (rinse and repeat until its through )

certainly the acrylic pipe i used one of those to cut didn't crack although it wasn't for a cooling loop just something for Christmas lights a few years ago /


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> ok I'm confused as to why acrylic would crack from some thing that essentially scores its way through the tube as you turn it, unless your one of those ham fisted folks that turns the knurled nut to push the blade through the side wall of the pipe in one go rather than just making contact twist the pipe tighten the blade a touch twist the pipe (rinse and repeat until its through )
> 
> certainly the acrylic pipe i used one of those to cut didn't crack although it wasn't for a cooling loop just something for Christmas lights a few years ago /


Sorry, I should have clarified that I was basing it off of videos I have seen online, acrylic is more brittle than PETG, so when you apply force to it which those cutters need, the acrylic cracks.

If I am wrong, I would love to know so I could get one to make my cutting easier


----------



## dicom

Emissary of Pain is completely right.
PVC Tube Cutter isn't for acrylic, simply it will crack.

I try those on acrylic and it's crack.


----------



## frostbite

Im sure the cutter in question is a copper pipe cutter, in which you you twist the cutting wheel to the pipe then rotate the tool a few rotations then move then twist the wheel more and repeat the process.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Im sure the cutter in question is a copper pipe cutter, in which you you twist the cutting wheel to the pipe then rotate the tool a few rotations then move then twist the wheel more and repeat the process.


Exactly the same as what Nanotm asked about, just a different look


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Exactly the same as what Nanotm asked about, just a different look


Damn I didnt see the link, Petg cutter will crack acrylic because its effectivly squashing it as it tries to cut


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> Why crappy performing monoblock cpu? Do you have "bad" temperatures?


It's an EK x399 monoblock and EK block performance for TR is just crap in general. They've acknowledged it already just gotta keep busting their chops so they will focus on making a solution.


----------



## dicom

ok, thanks for info.
I have EK monoblock for AM4 platform which is exceptional.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

For some reason my tablet is not letting me search the forum (either that or it's tapacrap)

Is there any good write-ups for parallel loops ? ... I want to redo my loop with the new fittings (can't wait to get rid of the push fittings) but I am not sure how I would pipe it.

GPU will be vertical so does this sound right ? ...

Pump > Right had rear port of GPU > Both Front Ports to CPU > Rear Left GPU port to Rad > Rad > res


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> For some reason my tablet is not letting me search the forum (either that or it's tapacrap)
> 
> Is there any good write-ups for parallel loops ? ... I want to redo my loop with the new fittings (can't wait to get rid of the push fittings) but I am not sure how I would pipe it.
> 
> GPU will be vertical so does this sound right ? ...
> 
> Pump > Right had rear port of GPU > Both Front Ports to CPU > Rear Left GPU port to Rad > Rad > res


look back 2 pages where i posted my new loop in a new case. parallel works just fine.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/106940#post_26445357


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> look back 2 pages where i posted my new loop in a new case. parallel works just fine.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/106940#post_26445357


Does it matter what ports on the GPU lead where ? ...

(please excuse the poorly copy pasted crud)

Faded red goes behind the GPU
Bright red in front of GPU to CPU



*::: EDIT :::*

Man that is probably the worst picture ever, sorry to those who threw up looking at it ... lmao


----------



## bobfig

looks fine to me as long as you have the pump output going to one side of the cpu and gpu then out the other side of the cpu/gpu.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> looks fine to me as long as you have the pump output going to one side of the cpu and gpu then out the other side of the cpu/gpu.


Thanks very much







... Really appreciate it

Last question, can CPU monoblocks have the "in" & "out" reversed ? ... If not then I will have to run the pump to the Right Rear port and have the pipes cross over behind the card


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Really appreciate it
> 
> Last question, can CPU monoblocks have the "in" & "out" reversed ? ... If not then I will have to run the pump to the Right Rear port and have the pipes cross over behind the card


If the block uses a jet plate it will work better in it's default inlet and outlet configuration. That said, you might get away with reversing it with minimal impact, the only way to know is to try it and find out.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Really appreciate it
> 
> Last question, can CPU monoblocks have the "in" & "out" reversed ? ... If not then I will have to run the pump to the Right Rear port and have the pipes cross over behind the card


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> If the block uses a jet plate it will work better in it's default inlet and outlet configuration. That said, you might get away with reversing it with minimal impact, the only way to know is to try it and find out.


all i can say is as of setting my system up yesterday and loading it with benchmarks on both the cpu and gpu is that the gpu never really went over 45*c and that is the reverse flow on the ek block. also overclocked to 2126mhz on the core.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Really appreciate it
> 
> Last question, can CPU monoblocks have the "in" & "out" reversed ? ... If not then I will have to run the pump to the Right Rear port and have the pipes cross over behind the card


When running a loop in parallel it is advised to match up the flow correctly (hence why you se a lot of people running EK CPU blocks upside down), but I ran my GPU with a reversed flow for half a year without any noticeable difference to temperature. If it is unavoidable then at least make sure that the CPU has correct flow, as the GPU will be happy to just be under water at all. It's not ideal, but given that the GPU will stay in the 30-40*c territory no matter what I would focus on the CPU which does fluctuate under water.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> *::: EDIT :::*
> 
> Has anyone seen Barrow's silver fittings in person, are they more chrome or black chrome ?


Barrows fittings are generally in the same tone as Bitspowers, doesn't matter which colour it is they just match really well. There was a rumor a few years ago that they were essentially made in the same factory, and given the similarity there could be something to that. Still whether true or not they match really well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> ok I'm confused as to why acrylic would crack from some thing that essentially scores its way through the tube as you turn it, unless your one of those ham fisted folks that turns the knurled nut to push the blade through the side wall of the pipe in one go rather than just making contact twist the pipe tighten the blade a touch twist the pipe (rinse and repeat until its through )
> 
> certainly the acrylic pipe i used one of those to cut didn't crack although it wasn't for a cooling loop just something for Christmas lights a few years ago /


The best way to cut acrylic would be to use a scoring blade, but I am unsure if that would work very well when we are talking about tubes. So the next best way would be a fine toothed hand saw, just go at it slow and don't apply to much pressure (I am unsure if the acrylic tubing is casted or extruded, but that could have some effect on how delicate you need to be with it). If using a motorized saw then see to it that it is working on a slower speed so that you do not melt the acrylic.

Edit: something went wrong with the multi quote and some text got deleted. Added what was missing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> would one of these do the job ?
> 
> since petg is used in plumbing i would expect plumbing pipe cutters to do the job


PETG is not used in plumbing.

It also does this....










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The best way to cut acrylic would be to use a scoring blade


No,the best way is with a fine tooth hacksaw and patience.

Also,guide in my sig.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,the best way is with a fine tooth hacksaw and patience.
> 
> Also,guide in my sig.


Again, I have no idea how you would use a scoring tool on a tube (but it is the best way to cut sheets). Hence why I mentioned a fine toothed saw, which a hacksaw does indeed fall under.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

I just wanted to say thanks to all for the advice







...

You guys have really made my watercooling experience a lot simpler


----------



## emsj86

changed fluid out again. This time to match some eagles green (somewhat)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you've used any dyed fluids in your loop make sure you get a bottle of reboot to prep the loop. And they will void the warranty if you use blitz instead. I already blitzed my system so that's a bit irritating, but at least the reboot is under $10. A drop in the bucket after having to buy 3 bottles of the vue for my massive system lol. I guess I'll have a really clean loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course there going to say that, they want to buy there product and try discourage your from buying others. Since there radiators are copper it's not going to damage the radiator. If you already ran Blitz through it there no real point in running SysPrep/reboot through it.
> 
> 24 dollars per bottle for 4 months is a bit high, Specially for something that doesn't have a track record yet. I would need five bottles to fill my entire system, that would around 120 dollars just in coolant(and 360 dollars a year in coolant), The coolant may look nice but not worth the price if you have to refill the system ever 4 months. For now I'll stick with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke atlease until there new coolant is ready.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They say the vue fluid is very sensitive (very believable, pastel is the same) and they simply aren't going to test another company's cleaning solution when they've developed something specifically for the vue, so they don't know what's in the blitz or how it may react to any residual traces of it. I do agree that it's probably fine with blitz. But given they won't warranty the fluid if you use blitz, the high cost, and the fact that its a new fluid, it's just not worth the risk of not getting the reboot for an extra $6. If I can get the fluid to last the full 6 months or more, I may consider buying it again, but most likely I'll switch to something cheaper since my loop takes 3 bottles. Definitely going to use it for smaller loops though, assuming it holds up.
Click to expand...

I call BS on that last bit. I have worked in sales long enough to know that companies send smart shoppers out to pick up competitor product.

Been into watercooling and computers long enough to know Tf's methods. They simply purchase a product(s) take it and reverse engineer it and copy it. Trust me, they know what Blitz is and what is in it. It's naive to think they don't.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you've used any dyed fluids in your loop make sure you get a bottle of reboot to prep the loop. And they will void the warranty if you use blitz instead. I already blitzed my system so that's a bit irritating, but at least the reboot is under $10. A drop in the bucket after having to buy 3 bottles of the vue for my massive system lol. I guess I'll have a really clean loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course there going to say that, they want to buy there product and try discourage your from buying others. Since there radiators are copper it's not going to damage the radiator. If you already ran Blitz through it there no real point in running SysPrep/reboot through it.
> 
> 24 dollars per bottle for 4 months is a bit high, Specially for something that doesn't have a track record yet. I would need five bottles to fill my entire system, that would around 120 dollars just in coolant(and 360 dollars a year in coolant), The coolant may look nice but not worth the price if you have to refill the system ever 4 months. For now I'll stick with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke atlease until there new coolant is ready.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They say the vue fluid is very sensitive (very believable, pastel is the same) and they simply aren't going to test another company's cleaning solution when they've developed something specifically for the vue, so they don't know what's in the blitz or how it may react to any residual traces of it. I do agree that it's probably fine with blitz. But given they won't warranty the fluid if you use blitz, the high cost, and the fact that its a new fluid, it's just not worth the risk of not getting the reboot for an extra $6. If I can get the fluid to last the full 6 months or more, I may consider buying it again, but most likely I'll switch to something cheaper since my loop takes 3 bottles. Definitely going to use it for smaller loops though, assuming it holds up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I call BS on that last bit. I have worked in sales long enough to know that companies send smart shoppers out to pick up competitor product.
> 
> Been into watercooling and computers long enough to know Tf's methods. They simply purchase a product(s) take it and reverse engineer it and copy it. Trust me, they know what Blitz is and what is in it. It's naive to think they don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Running the reboot now. Looks like it's already picking up some green dye, and that's after the blitz.


----------



## dicom

My experience for PETG is best with hand saw or:
https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-lrt-pvc-flexible-tube-cutter

For acrylic just hand saw.

But definitely recommendation for hard tubing is PETG. Simply it is much easier to work.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dicom*
> 
> My experience for PETG is best with hand saw or:
> https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-lrt-pvc-flexible-tube-cutter


Or This https://m.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided


----------



## frostbite

Finally received the rad, cleaned it up when I got home and filled the system



And no leaks


----------



## Ithanul

Finally showed up.


I want to get a block for it, but darn....I don't like either the EK nor XSPC block. Anyone know if Heatkiller made a block yet?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Finally showed up.
> 
> 
> I want to get a block for it, but darn....I don't like either the EK nor XSPC block. Anyone know if Heatkiller made a block yet?


HK blocks are shipping now


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> HK blocks are shipping now


Full copper only though.

If you want full nickel or acrylic/nickel, you have to wait until later this month.


----------



## fakeblood

New case, new loop. Some mods.

https://imageshack.com/i/pmSlc2Crj
https://imageshack.com/i/poDBxMwej
https://imageshack.com/i/po0a5qB0j


----------



## MNMadman

Is that using a CoolerMaster vertical GPU bracket?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Is that using a CoolerMaster vertical GPU bracket?


Yeah with a liheat pci riser


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> New case, new loop. Some mods.


Looks great.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Anyone know if there is a cheap block I can use for my Rampage Black VRMs ... The little heatsink is getting so hot I can't even touch it


----------



## frostbite

Are you not better off directing a small fan toward the vrms?
Like the cryorig airflow fan
http://www.cryorig.com/a-series.php

Used to be a common sight with W/C


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Anyone know if there is a cheap block I can use for my Rampage Black VRMs ... The little heatsink is getting so hot I can't even touch it


You're looking for a universal MOSFET block like this koolance MVR 100. Koolance, heat killer, Barrow, and Bykski all sell these in the 15-30 dollar range.


----------



## frostbite

How much restriction will it add?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> HK blocks are shipping now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Full copper only though.
> 
> If you want full nickel or acrylic/nickel, you have to wait until later this month.


Thank you. I don't plan to get the block until later.


----------



## surfinchina

I guess they released it early.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Not early, the initial ship date was the 14th and the first orders were supposed to be sent then if you ordered within the first day.

If you ordered after the first day, they probably had a cancelled order and your got moved into one of those spots.

Mine will be here Friday.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess they released it early.


They announced yesterday that the first wave of pre-orders were shipping.

Post in the PrimoChill VUE Coolant Users Club thread with pics and such when you get it.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> They announced yesterday that the first wave of pre-orders were shipping.
> 
> Post in the PrimoChill VUE Coolant Users Club thread with pics and such when you get it.


Good man for starting a thread.


----------



## VSG

I'll just leave this here: https://www.techpowerup.com/238828/ek-water-blocks-parts-ways-with-top-management


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I'll just leave this here: https://www.techpowerup.com/238828/ek-water-blocks-parts-ways-with-top-management


Unless these individuals were responsible for the total lack of any changes in the product line in the last 4 years, hardly means anything to me. Wish their crappy x399 blocks would get more attention so they have more pressure to do something about it. They acknowledge the problem yet continue to sell the blocks.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I'll just leave this here: https://www.techpowerup.com/238828/ek-water-blocks-parts-ways-with-top-management


This deserves a post in the news section.

EK has come up short with a couple of product launches recently. I don't know that top management is responsible for this shortcoming, but maybe they are. If there has been a conflict between product quality/design and sales pressure, then this parting of ways could be a good thing if it means that EK is going back to an enthusiast company.

Focus on the balance sheet too much and you can end up with poorer products, don't focus on it enough and you can end up out of business. It's a hard line to walk but it's necessary.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I'll just leave this here: https://www.techpowerup.com/238828/ek-water-blocks-parts-ways-with-top-management


Interesting.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> would one of these do the job ?
> 
> since petg is used in plumbing i would expect plumbing pipe cutters to do the job
> 
> 
> 
> That would work for PETG and metal tubing, but acrylic will crack
> 
> *::: EDIT :::*
> 
> Has anyone seen Barrow's silver fittings in person, are they more chrome or black chrome ?
Click to expand...

Definitely chrome, and just use a hacksaw for tube, its the tried and true tool!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Anyone know if there is a cheap block I can use for my Rampage Black VRMs ... The little heatsink is getting so hot I can't even touch it


Like others mentioned, the koolance blocks are a good option. However they may be to large or to small depending on the specific size on your board so you might need the transfer plates whioch you can get in several sizes if you need to combine it with the 40mm block instead. Watercool also has a more universal system available if you need to do some DIY customization.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I'll just leave this here: https://www.techpowerup.com/238828/ek-water-blocks-parts-ways-with-top-management


On the upside,I'm back at EK.

Feel free to message me with anything you want us to produce.


----------



## Dortheleus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> On the upside,I'm back at EK.
> 
> Feel free to message me with anything you want us to produce.


Well to that, I got a question for ya. Does EK have a cooler that works with the Galax GTX 1070 Katana?


----------



## Kimir

I'm afraid they don't, unless you go universal block.
https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=3843


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> On the upside,I'm back at EK.
> 
> Feel free to message me with anything you want us to produce.


A better TR cold plate and cooling engine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> A better TR cold plate and cooling engine.


Triggered.

Also incoming.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Triggered.
> 
> Also incoming.


I am heavily looking forward to this. I really like my asus x399 monoblock look wise and I don't want to pull it out if I don't have to. Hoping you guys can make a way for it to work with existing blocks and monoblocks and at a relatively low or no cost to current owners. I know no cost would hurt the bottom line but would heavily help in the reputation department imo. I dropped 320 ish something before even shipping costs on EK threadripper blocks and looking for other solutions added a nice 500 on top of that lol. Would of liked to just have bought the EK from the get go and been fine.


----------



## frostbite

Does an am4 coldplate with adapter create hot spots on tr4?

Even If the core is covered


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Triggered.
> 
> Also incoming.


Is this bigger cold plate going to make it's way to mono blocks too? I would be so thrilled if I could buy the upcoming x399 Taichi mono block with the bigger cold plate. It's the number 2 enthusiast board on the platform so demand will definitely be there.

I also sent a PM about a mono block for the x370 Taichi. EK hasn't traditionally been big on mono blocks for Asrock platforms, but Asrock has been nailing it with the Taichi/Fatal1ty combo across three Intel chipsets and two AMD chipsets.

I've been genuinely concerned that small cooling engine on the X399 Taichi mono block would lead EK to believe demand wasn't there yet for Asrock mono blocks.


----------



## iamjanco

@B NEGATIVE would also love to see the production of VRM/Mosfet blocks for use with power gulping cpus like the x299 HCC versions. Why toss a perfectly good cpu block and replace it with a monoblock, when all that's really needed is the addition of a *solid vrm block*?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE would also love to see the production of VRM/Mosfet blocks for use with power gulping cpus like the x299 HCC versions. Why toss a perfectly good cpu block and replace it with a monoblock, when all that's really needed is the addition of a *solid vrm block*?


More money made and less costs to RD?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> More money made and less costs to RD?


Yeah, I get that, but, well, you know.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Is this bigger cold plate going to make it's way to mono blocks too? I would be so thrilled if I could buy the upcoming x399 Taichi mono block with the bigger cold plate. It's the number 2 enthusiast board on the platform so demand will definitely be there.
> 
> I also sent a PM about a mono block for the x370 Taichi. EK hasn't traditionally been big on mono blocks for Asrock platforms, but Asrock has been nailing it with the Taichi/Fatal1ty combo across three Intel chipsets and two AMD chipsets.
> 
> I've been genuinely concerned that small cooling engine on the X399 Taichi mono block would lead EK to believe demand wasn't there yet for Asrock mono blocks.


The x399 asus block was sold out earlier this week and now back in stock. I wouldn't doubt lots of people are buying it as well as the TR block, hell i saw the TR block at microcenter this past weekend. This kinda worries me. If there is a known issue why keep selling the blocks on your site? Isn't this making it more expensive to fix? So I can only speculate that the new solution will be an upgrade kit. Hopefully they will make this kit free for previous buyers with issues. I am not suggesting just randomly handing them out, but anyone with proof of purchase should be able to get the upgrade kit for 0 cost if they wanted it.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Yeah, I get that, but, well, you know.


I get what you mean, it would be nice but hey gotta make that $$$ lol. I got useless evos laying around as well.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The x399 asus block was sold out earlier this week and now back in stock. I wouldn't doubt lots of people are buying it as well as the TR block, hell i saw the TR block at microcenter this past weekend. This kinda worries me. If there is a known issue why keep selling the blocks on your site? Isn't this making it more expensive to fix? So I can only speculate that the new solution will be an upgrade kit. Hopefully they will make this kit free for previous buyers with issues. I am not suggesting just randomly handing them out, but anyone with proof of purchase should be able to get the upgrade kit for 0 cost if they wanted it.


The upgrade would be everything except the top of the block wouldn't it? Fins and cold plate are fixed, and the jet plate assembly wouldn't fit over bigger fins.

Replacing all of the old style blocks would be expensive for EK. Not doing something is also expensive too. All I know is the EK mono blocks are sexy looking, but I can't buy one until the performance is improved so my 65 dollar Bykski doesn't eat it's lunch.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> The upgrade would be everything except the top of the block wouldn't it? Fins and cold plate are fixed, and the jet plate assembly wouldn't fit over bigger fins.
> 
> Replacing all of the old style blocks would be expensive for EK. Not doing something is also expensive too. All I know is the EK mono blocks are sexy looking, but I can't buy one until the performance is improved so my 65 dollar Bykski doesn't eat it's lunch.


Looking at the other tr blocks, I think the main aspect would be the fin array size. I am no pro on the subject but if you look at the phanteks block it's a very simple design and it works fine since the fin area covers the dies. I think a larger fin area on a larger cold plate would be enough of an improvement to make the blocks work. Even within 5c of xspc would great. Right now its like 14c in my testing.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Looking at the other tr blocks, I think the main aspect would be the fin array size. I am no pro on the subject but if you look at the phanteks block it's a very simple design and it works fine since the fin area covers the dies. I think a larger fin area on a larger cold plate would be enough of an improvement to make the blocks work. Even within 5c of xspc would great. Right now its like 14c in my testing.


Honestly, I think the main issue with the EKWB TR4 block is that water isn't actually contacting anything outside the normal 115x/2011/am4 block. Sure a larger surface area through a larger fin area helps, but simply increasing the actual area that is in contact with water will improve temps significantly. The way the block is now the heat has to travel a long distance from the edges of the block to actually reach the water which I personally think is the main culprit to differences in temperatures. A larger fin area would be nice as well of course.

I don't disagree with you, but I think just a larger fin array isn't going to cut it ( you can always increase surface area by increasing the hight of each individual fin, thus creating a larger fin area)

Still, I think the block needs to be redesigned entirely to actually prove useful. The main chamber needs to increase in volume and the area of the block in actual contact with water needs to increase. The current block is reminiscent of earlier full cover graphics card block which din't have actual water flowing over the area where the VRMs were. A simple up-scaling of the current design would likely be a fairly successfully, on the flip side the block would be fairly high resistance.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Honestly, I think the main issue with the EKWB TR4 block is that water isn't actually contacting anything outside the normal 115x/2011/am4 block. Sure a larger surface area through a larger fin area helps, but simply increasing the actual area that is in contact with water will improve temps significantly. The way the block is now the heat has to travel a long distance from the edges of the block to actually reach the water which I personally think is the main culprit to differences in temperatures. A larger fin area would be nice as well of course.
> 
> I don't disagree with you, but I think just a larger fin array isn't going to cut it ( you can always increase surface area by increasing the hight of each individual fin, thus creating a larger fin area)
> 
> Still, I think the block needs to be redesigned entirely to actually prove useful. The main chamber needs to increase in volume and the area of the block in actual contact with water needs to increase. The current block is reminiscent of earlier full cover graphics card block which din't have actual water flowing over the area where the VRMs were. A simple up-scaling of the current design would likely be a fairly successfully, on the flip side the block would be fairly high resistance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Honestly, I think the main issue with the EKWB TR4 block is that water isn't actually contacting anything outside the normal 115x/2011/am4 block. Sure a larger surface area through a larger fin area helps, but simply increasing the actual area that is in contact with water will improve temps significantly. The way the block is now the heat has to travel a long distance from the edges of the block to actually reach the water which I personally think is the main culprit to differences in temperatures. A larger fin area would be nice as well of course.
> 
> I don't disagree with you, but I think just a larger fin array isn't going to cut it ( you can always increase surface area by increasing the hight of each individual fin, thus creating a larger fin area)
> 
> Still, I think the block needs to be redesigned entirely to actually prove useful. The main chamber needs to increase in volume and the area of the block in actual contact with water needs to increase. The current block is reminiscent of earlier full cover graphics card block which din't have actual water flowing over the area where the VRMs were. A simple up-scaling of the current design would likely be a fairly successfully, on the flip side the block would be fairly high resistance.


All of the TR4 blocks I've seen on the market (except the EK) look like scaled up versions of previous designs. Everything is just bigger. The larger fin area gives them a serious advantage, and the same manufacturing techniques and equipment work.

If a lower restriction method is developed, I would expect to see it find it's way into other blocks as it should allow higher performance.

I think whatever fin area a block has, it should cover the dies in the package. Copper is a good conductor, but I would rather the fins be right over the dies with water doing heat transfer instead of relying on solid copper to conduct the heat to where the fins are.


----------



## supanat sr

Inwin 303 join here


----------



## bigboy678

I wouldnt mind if signalkuppe ever saw the light of day


----------



## Deedaz

I'll be finishing up this build next week now that I have this.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> All of the TR4 blocks I've seen on the market (except the EK) look like scaled up versions of previous designs. Everything is just bigger. The larger fin area gives them a serious advantage, and the same manufacturing techniques and equipment work.
> 
> If a lower restriction method is developed, I would expect to see it find it's way into other blocks as it should allow higher performance.
> 
> I think whatever fin area a block has, it should cover the dies in the package. Copper is a good conductor, but I would rather the fins be right over the dies with water doing heat transfer instead of relying on solid copper to conduct the heat to where the fins are.


Had one chap over on LTT link me to this one.
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-C399a.html

Now I stuck between either that one or the Heatkiller now.


----------



## SavantStrike

Having fins over the active die area
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Had one chap over on LTT link me to this one.
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-C399a.html
> 
> Now I stuck between either that one or the Heatkiller now.


Heatkiller hands down. There haven't been any performance metrics on them (yet), but gosh they are pretty, and the fin area is the right size.

The Phanteks is decent too, it's one degree off from the current top performer (XSPC Raystorm TR4). It needs a fair amount of flow through it for maximum effect though. @chew* lapped one and compared it head to head against the Bykski, which was about even with the Phanteks.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Just got a pair of Phanteks PH-F140HP II fans the other day to use in my temporary set-up (strange to actually focus on upgrading my cooling on something that is temporary to start with). I got the ones with 12cm holes due to the air cooler I'm using, but just judging from the performance I see on this cooler and general specs they would make for terrific radiator fans. Has anyone tried these against some more common 14cm fans? To be clear I'm interested in the PH-F140MP as that seems like a square frame version of the HP.

I could always test my HP-II fans against a pair of NF-A14 fans that I have to give some reference of performance, but it would be great to see them really put to the test by more experienced reviewers.


----------



## KCDC

I'm really digging Phanteks fittings. Anyone using them? I want to get a set of the rigid for when I go glass tubing, including rotaries and angled. Hard to know the company's failure rate when they're fairly new to the WC game.


----------



## dracotonisamond

i got one of those EK RGB reservoirs and made a custom three channel LED controller and breakout for the other strips in my chassis for the arduino.


now to clean up the wiring and finish sleaving everything.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supanat sr*
> 
> Inwin 303 join here


Gorgeous! +rep I need to hardline.


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I'll be finishing up this build next week now that I have this.


I have been interested in this fluid myself. I have seen some videos of Jays2cents use this and it looks amazing! I wonder if there are any long term effects to this fluid and/or if you need to clean loop more frequently due to lay down. I am afraid to use anything besides distilled water.


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supanat sr*
> 
> Inwin 303 join here


Very clean and great attention to detail! +Rep


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shweller*
> 
> I have been interested in this fluid myself. I have seen some videos of Jays2cents use this and it looks amazing! I wonder if there are any long term effects to this fluid and/or if you need to clean loop more frequently due to lay down. I am afraid to use anything besides distilled water.


He will likely have a video up about this soon. He took apart one of the systems he had VUE in to check it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also run time on VUE isn't very long, and not for systems that run 20-24/7


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Also run time on VUE isn't very long, and not for systems that run 20-24/7


Wasn't VUE supposed to be like a 24/7 competitor to Aurora? It could be that they didn't manage to get it to be like planned, but I distinctly remember that a lot of the talk around VUE was that it could be ran as long as regular fluid (like pastel).


----------



## DarthBaggins

6-8mo is the run time prior to change vs Pastel that can be run a year or a little longer.


----------



## lexer

Guys here where I live finding a good coolant is almost impossible. So i was thinking using this https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/mocool is a non-glycol based coolant for racing and also has some actives for corrosión, is similar to Water Wetter.
Anyone tried this ? I have PETG tubbing so glycol based coolants are not a option


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Guys here where I live finding a good coolant is almost impossible. So i was thinking using this https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/mocool is a non-glycol based coolant for racing and also has some actives for corrosión, is similar to Water Wetter.
> Anyone tried this ? I have PETG tubbing so glycol based coolants are not a option


I find it strange that you got your hands on PETG and the required fittings without having the option of getting coolant additives. If you do have the option of ordering smaller international packages then I would look at getting some ptNuke, it's small enough to be sent in a letter and it should at the very least keep algae at bay (There are 2 options, one based on Benzalkonium chloride, and the other on Copper sulfate). Another option is to just swap fluids more often an simply run pure distilled or de-mineralized water, apparently a drain every 6 months or so is required if running only distilled.

Hopefully someone else can fill you in on safe non water cooling solutions that will work well, as I have limited experience with those. Though I suspect you can always make your own mix if you have shops that sell chemical supplies nearby.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shweller*
> 
> I have been interested in this fluid myself. I have seen some videos of Jays2cents use this and it looks amazing! I wonder if there are any long term effects to this fluid and/or if you need to clean loop more frequently due to lay down. I am afraid to use anything besides distilled water.


The coolant looks nice, But it's suggested to change the system every 4 months. You may be able to push it to 5 to 6 months but nothing beyond that. For me it's just to expensive, I would need five bottles to fill up my system. That would be close to 120 dollars every 4 to 6 months. Nearly 360 dollars every year just for coolant.

If anyone is interested in these I would wait until there's a track record to these before using it, Unless your willing to beta test the coolant.

I had very good results with EK's old Evo coolant which is Mayhem's X1 series and Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid with Mayhem's dyes. Also Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke is very good. It's what I'm currently using.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Having fins over the active die area
> Heatkiller hands down. There haven't been any performance metrics on them (yet), but gosh they are pretty, and the fin area is the right size.
> 
> The Phanteks is decent too, it's one degree off from the current top performer (XSPC Raystorm TR4). It needs a fair amount of flow through it for maximum effect though. @chew* lapped one and compared it head to head against the Bykski, which was about even with the Phanteks.


Good to know then, thanks for the heads up.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I find it strange that you got your hands on PETG and the required fittings without having the option of getting coolant additives. If you do have the option of ordering smaller international packages then I would look at getting some ptNuke, it's small enough to be sent in a letter and it should at the very least keep algae at bay (There are 2 options, one based on Benzalkonium chloride, and the other on Copper sulfate). Another option is to just swap fluids more often an simply run pure distilled or de-mineralized water, apparently a drain every 6 months or so is required if running only distilled.
> 
> Hopefully someone else can fill you in on safe non water cooling solutions that will work well, as I have limited experience with those. Though I suspect you can always make your own mix if you have shops that sell chemical supplies nearby.


I want to avoid import this because the argentine postal service is **** larges wait lines (3-4hs) in the Post Office to get the package and if you want it delivered to your house they usually lose it or they steal it, the only realiable way is DHL or UPS but too expensive for small packages.
I have PT NUKE but is almost finished


----------



## nanotm

distilled water isn't the best, de-ionised is the best, if your loop is all copper then you will only to drain it out once a month and if you wrap some uv leds around the res then no need to add anti algae additives

that way your loop should be good for a few years between fluid changes, so long as you flushed it out properly to start wiht that is.

if you have a mixture of different metals in there then you would need an anti corrosive additive as well as the uv led's and need to change it out more often

the best option is whats available at an affordable price and for me thats always been aio's (which you just run until lthey break without any maint required, and corsair for instance gives their kit a 5 year gaurentee, which indicates that they expect it last at least that long before the fluid needs changing /


----------



## looniam

since it's being discussed:


----------



## nycgtr

Yea 2 months barely is the best sign of long term. Apparently I should start adding it to my toilet to keep the bowl clean while I am it.


----------



## looniam

i know, lets see how clean those blocks get after 6 months.

can't figure out if that's a pos/neg.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i know, lets see how clean those blocks get after 6 months.
> 
> can't figure out if that's a pos/neg.


Well... Since it's cleaning the blocks I assume that means it's slightly corrosive, which isn't exactly a good thing for long term.


----------



## dwolvin

it could be polishing activity from the 'glitter', it seems to be in the flow areas.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> it could be polishing activity from the 'glitter', it seems to be in the flow areas.


If it's polishing it, then that means it's sanding off a microscopic top layer. I have yet to see a form of polishing that doesn't remove any material from a surface. Hence my concern.


----------



## dwolvin

It would be a matter of hardness- as long as the glitter is less hard than the metal, no problem.


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The coolant looks nice, But it's suggested to change the system every 4 months. You may be able to push it to 5 to 6 months but nothing beyond that. For me it's just to expensive, I would need five bottles to fill up my system. That would be close to 120 dollars every 4 to 6 months. Nearly 360 dollars every year just for coolant.
> 
> If anyone is interested in these I would wait until there's a track record to these before using it, Unless your willing to beta test the coolant.
> 
> I had very good results with EK's old Evo coolant which is Mayhem's X1 series and Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid with Mayhem's dyes. Also Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke is very good. It's what I'm currently using.


I hate to admit this, but I have been running the same water for over a year. Just topped off reservoir and running a silver kill coil with Frozen CPU dead water. I haven't really noticed a huge difference in performance. I will be taking loop apart and cleaning everything in a few weeks as I am replacing a few components.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> It would be a matter of hardness- as long as the glitter is less hard than the metal, no problem.


Not really how things work, you can always remove material with something that is softer as well. It's simply going to take a whole lot longer to do. The reason why something gets polished is that the wear marks on the surface get smoothed out making the surface more uniform, and you can¨t do that without removing parts of the material. To be clear I don't think it's going to be an issue with this fluid, but the blocs will wear out over time due to this. Especially since there is a noticeable difference in just 2 months of use.


----------



## Asus11




----------



## MNMadman

The metal didn't get polished. The gunk that was caking the metal got removed. There is a big difference there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> distilled water isn't the best, de-ionised is the best, if your loop is all copper then you will only to drain it out once a month and if you wrap some uv leds around the res then no need to add anti algae additives


Lol.

No.

On all parts.

EDIT: Jaz2pence.....not reputable for any watercooling information.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> distilled water isn't the best, de-ionised is the best, if your loop is all copper then you will only to drain it out once a month and if you wrap some uv leds around the res then no need to add anti algae additives
> 
> that way your loop should be good for a few years between fluid changes, so long as you flushed it out properly to start wiht that is.
> 
> if you have a mixture of different metals in there then you would need an anti corrosive additive as well as the uv led's and need to change it out more often
> 
> the best option is whats available at an affordable price and for me thats always been aio's (which you just run until lthey break without any maint required, and corsair for instance gives their kit a 5 year gaurentee, which indicates that they expect it last at least that long before the fluid needs changing /


Deionised may as well be distilled lol because the deionisation don't stay for long.

I would not trust AIOs again after I discovered my H80i intentionally had an Aluminium radiator with a copper cold plate. No friggin way, it is literally rigged to fail once the anti-corrosives stop working after the usual 3 years.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Deionised may as well be distilled lol because the deionisation don't stay for long.
> 
> I would not trust AIOs again after I discovered my H80i intentionally had an Aluminium radiator with a copper cold plate. No friggin way, it is literally rigged to fail once the anti-corrosives stop working after the usual 3 years.


I think the only AIOs that I have seen with copper rads are the Fractal Design Kelvin series (not Celsius) and Be Quiet Silent Loop series. There may be others such as the Cooler Master Eisberg as well (The block is made by Alphacool so I would be surprised if it's an aluminium radiator), but I have no direct info on those.

Edit: Oh and Totally forgot about the EKWB Predator and the Swiftech AIOs if those count as anything more than pre sealed open loops.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> *distilled water isn't the best, de-ionised is the best,* if your loop is all copper then you will only to drain it out once a month and if you wrap some uv leds around the res then no need to add anti algae additives
> 
> that way your loop should be good for a few years between fluid changes, so long as you flushed it out properly to start wiht that is.
> 
> if you have a mixture of different metals in there then you would need an anti corrosive additive as well as the uv led's and need to change it out more often
> 
> the best option is whats available at an affordable price and for me thats always been aio's (which you just run until lthey break without any maint required, and corsair for instance gives their kit a 5 year gaurentee, which indicates that they expect it last at least that long before the fluid needs changing /


For the sake of starting the conversation (probably again), I posted here. I am familiar with Martin's Liquid Lab and I still see this question and/or opinion(s) floated around often. I thought it may be helpful to create a more recent thread. In a community such as this, some things are going to be kicked around more times than we care to count.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Not really how things work, you can always remove material with something that is softer as well. It's simply going to take a whole lot longer to do. The reason why something gets polished is that the wear marks on the surface get smoothed out making the surface more uniform, and you can¨t do that without removing parts of the material. To be clear I don't think it's going to be an issue with this fluid, but the blocs will wear out over time due to this. Especially since there is a noticeable difference in just 2 months of use.


Steel knife on soft wood. Dulls a sharp blade every time.

I wonder what exactly is giving this fluid the polishing effect? This further has makes me wonder what this will do to plating on blocks over a year or two of running this fluid?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> The metal didn't get polished. The gunk that was caking the metal got removed. There is a big difference there.


That could very well be the case with Jay's blocks, but he did mention that Primochill had experienced the same thing with presumably already clean blocks. Which would give some credit to the hypothesis that this is ever so slightly polishing off the top layer of nickel/copper. Heck, even regular water will wear on the blocks over time (the same way rivers polish rocks), so it's not like it's not a thing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> Steel knife on soft wood. Dulls a sharp blade every time.
> 
> I wonder what exactly is giving this fluid the polishing effect? This further has makes me wonder what this will do to plating on blocks over a year or two of running this fluid?


This would be my exact concern, especially if the nickel plating in use is really thin (like on some cheaper fittings). Hopefully there won't be any noticeable effect within a reasonable amount of time, because something like this could prove really problematic for Primochill if it became an issue.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> That could very well be the case with Jay's blocks, but he did mention that Primochill had experienced the same thing with presumably already clean blocks. Which would give some credit to the hypothesis that this is ever so slightly polishing off the top layer of nickel/copper. Heck, even regular water will wear on the blocks over time (the same way rivers polish rocks), so it's not like it's not a thing.
> This would be my exact concern, especially if the nickel plating in use is really thin (like on some cheaper fittings). Hopefully there won't be any noticeable effect within a reasonable amount of time, because something like this could prove really problematic for Primochill if it became an issue.


That. water alone wont damage/polish anything. But if there is anything in there like little partikl/flakes than it will "throw" them against the surface of the blocks. Over time this will damge the blocks.

But it looks nice and is "good" for the o-rings, that will fail befor the blocks got polished to death


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> That. water alone wont damage/polish anything. But if there is anything in there like little partikl/flakes than it will "throw" them against the surface of the blocks. Over time this will damge the blocks.
> 
> But it looks nice and is "good" for the o-rings, that will fail befor the blocks got polished to death


Water in movement will erode at a surface over time, though it's not something we should be concerned about in our lifetime with these blocks unless we have insane amounts of pressure.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Just got a pair of Phanteks PH-F140HP II fans the other day to use in my temporary set-up (strange to actually focus on upgrading my cooling on something that is temporary to start with). I got the ones with 12cm holes due to the air cooler I'm using, but just judging from the performance I see on this cooler and general specs they would make for terrific radiator fans. Has anyone tried these against some more common 14cm fans? To be clear I'm interested in the PH-F140MP as that seems like a square frame version of the HP.
> 
> I could always test my HP-II fans against a pair of NF-A14 fans that I have to give some reference of performance, but it would be great to see them really put to the test by more experienced reviewers.


Me too. I have a phantek 140 as my exhaust fan ... very nice and quiet.

Google ... http://thermalbench.com/2015/01/07/phanteks-ph-f120mp-ph-f140mp-fans/


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> That could very well be the case with Jay's blocks, but he did mention that Primochill had experienced the same thing with presumably already clean blocks. Which would give some credit to the hypothesis that this is ever so slightly polishing off the top layer of nickel/copper. Heck, even regular water will wear on the blocks over time (the same way rivers polish rocks), so it's not like it's not a thing.
> This would be my exact concern, especially if the nickel plating in use is really thin (like on some cheaper fittings). Hopefully there won't be any noticeable effect within a reasonable amount of time, because something like this could prove really problematic for Primochill if it became an issue.


You know what would help in ths case? An MSDS for the chemical being sold. Come on, Primochill, this is getting unprofessional with the lack of one when customers have already received it.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You know what would help in ths case? An MSDS for the chemical being sold. Come on, Primochill, this is getting unprofessional with the lack of one when customers have already received it.


I won't buy anything that doesn't have an MSDS. It's important to know what something is so that proper disposal procedures can be followed, and so that I know I won't grow a third arm.

Do they go into detail about whether this stuff is toxic or not? Without an MSDS it doesn't tell me very much.


----------



## Ceadderman

As a parent of children under 10, I refuse to purchase anything that does not come with a MSDS page. To my recollection it's illegal to sell a material(toxic or otherwise) without one. When we got new products at the parts supply I worked for we got one with ALL our materials and logged a page for each in a binder. We would then supply upon request a photocopy of the page to anyone that wanted/needed it.

Not that I do any dye liquids anyway. It's just a matter of safety that has me concerned. I mean hades, What if my kid got hold of a freshly opened container when my back is turned. He's two. Trust me, he goes into the fridge on a whim and presents me with juice, milk or whatever catches his eye. It's only a matter of time before he opens up a container and chugs from it.









~Ceadder


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> snip...To my recollection it's illegal to sell a material(toxic or otherwise) without one. ...snip


osha only requires an msds for hazardous materials. they don't even suggest one for non-hazardous and any msds that comes on non-hazardous can be freely discarded

I think they want to keep from clogging the system with logging non-toxic items


----------



## surfinchina

Quick question.
This happened to my X299 monoblock:


I've got a spare Evo Supremacy lying around, would you swap the monoblock out or leave it in.
The X299 VRMs can get really hot and my 7900x is delidded.
It's been running like this for a few weeks with no leaks and the cracks aren't getting bigger.


----------



## MNMadman

JayzTwoCents had this when he took apart one of his systems to check the effects of PrimoChill VUE coolant.

For his, the cracks seemed to be entirely in the middle of the acrylic and didn't go through to the top or to the bottom of the acrylic. As long as that's the case, it won't leak.

If it were me, I'd buy another monoblock as those VRMs really do need the cooling. Just don't do whatever caused the cracks again.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Quick question.
> This happened to my X299 monoblock:
> 
> 
> I've got a spare Evo Supremacy lying around, would you swap the monoblock out or leave it in.
> The X299 VRMs can get really hot and my 7900x is delidded.
> It's been running like this for a few weeks with no leaks and the cracks aren't getting bigger.


See if you can get a replacement acrylic piece and don't over tighten your fittings. Remember it's the o-ring that makes the seal, you don't need more than hand tight.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> JayzTwoCents had this when he took apart one of his systems to check the effects of PrimoChill VUE coolant.
> 
> For his, the cracks seemed to be entirely in the middle of the acrylic and didn't go through to the top or to the bottom of the acrylic. As long as that's the case, it won't leak.
> 
> If it were me, I'd buy another monoblock as those VRMs really do need the cooling. Just don't do whatever caused the cracks again.


I pulled the top off the monoblock to clean some UV coolant I didn't like. UV clear stains stuff really bad (pinkish) btw. When I put the top back on I left the fittings in place and that fitting must have pressed against the diffuser underneath it. Which in my opinion is a bit of a design flaw, the diffuser should have enough clearance so that a fitting doesn't push on it...
Anyway, lesson learnt.

I'm running the reboot loop cleaner now, so later tomorrow I'll pull it apart and have a better look.
Hopefully it'll be ok because there aren't any of those monoblocks in New Zealand so I'd have to order one and not put my Vue in until it turns up in about 3 weeks.(frown).


----------



## DarthBaggins

yup plexi/acrylic cracks really easy.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Water in movement will erode at a surface over time, though it's not something we should be concerned about in our lifetime with these blocks unless we have insane amounts of pressure.


This.

Some of this perceived cleaning effect could be from running a loop without dyes that stain and leave deposits. Running water 24x7 in a previously stained loop could be slowly removing these old surface level contaminants.

There are three possibilities here:
1. The coolant uses a biocide that acts as a mild detergent, or is mildly acidic
2. The coolant contains a mild abrasive
3. The coolant uses a different kind of dye that does not stain and does not leave deposits, so over time it acts like pure water would and removes impurities from old dyes

It could be any one of these things.
1. Propylene Glycol (for corrosion inhibition) can break down into organic acids, or benzalkonium chloride (common biocide) is also a surfactant
2. We don't know what the dye is - if it's a particulate in suspension, it might be mildly abrasive
3. We don't know what the dye is

My bet is that the coolant is propylene glycol and benzalkonium chloride based as these are two common and mostly non toxic additives for water cooling. The dye is probably the secret sauce here and is probably the driving factor behind what is different about it. No way to know for sure though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

And nothing to do with the Sysprep Primochill require you to use before filling.........


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And nothing to do with the Sysprep Primochill require you to use before filling.........


The instructions for the reboot are to drain the system after running it and then flush again after draining. The Vue requires you drain that fresh DI water from the flush too.

Unless that reboot is really strong, it shouldn't be in the loop by the time the vue is added. Unless jayz didn't follow the instructions....


----------



## Bad5ector

Wondering I if I could get added to the group, here is my current rig:


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And nothing to do with the Sysprep Primochill require you to use before filling.........


I don't think they require it....
It's just a recommendation.

Probably the biggest flaw in the Vue is that it seems to pick up any tiny bit of stuff left in the loop and amplify it.
And it probably picks those tiny bits up because if it's apparent 'cleaning' properties. The gunk that came off of those (now) nice shiny bits of metal in Jayz loop are zooming around in the coolant. Colouring it.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> I don't think they require it....
> It's just a recommendation.
> 
> Probably the biggest flaw in the Vue is that it seems to pick up any tiny bit of stuff left in the loop and amplify it.
> And it probably picks those tiny bits up because if it's apparent 'cleaning' properties. The gunk that came off of those (now) nice shiny bits of metal in Jayz loop are zooming around in the coolant. Colouring it.


Primochil has been pretty adamant that vue shouldn't be mixed with other products, and that you should only use primo chill reboot as a system flush before using vue.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Primochil has been pretty adamant that vue shouldn't be mixed with other products, and that you should only use primo chill reboot as a system flush before using vue.


Yes they have.
And after my experiences with flushing old loops they have a point.

If they required the sys prep though, they would have given us two options:
New system Vue which comes with a bottle of sys prep and a bottle of Vue, and old system Vue which has the reboot and a bottle of Vue all in one nicely packaged box.
But they didn't, so it's not really a requirement, just a recommendation.


----------



## frostbite

Surely there cant be that much residue left if you flushed it with distilled then refilled with vue?

What's better Vue or Aurora for wowness?


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> If they required the sys prep though, they would have given us two options:
> New system Vue which comes with a bottle of sys prep and a bottle of Vue, and old system Vue which has the reboot and a bottle of Vue all in one nicely packaged box.
> But they didn't, so it's not really a requirement, just a recommendation.


From the *Instructions* tab on the PrimoChill site:

*Adding Vue To A New Loop:*

Just use PrimoChill Sysprep to get your system ready for Vue.

*Switching To Vue In A Pre-existing Loop:*

If you are changing out your current coolant with Vue then please prep your system with our new PrimoChill System Reboot.

-

Given how new and finicky VUE is, I'm going to follow the instructions (I've never used SysPrep in a new loop with regular coolant before).


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> From the *Instructions* tab on the PrimoChill site:
> 
> *Adding Vue To A New Loop:*
> 
> Just use PrimoChill Sysprep to get your system ready for Vue.
> 
> *Switching To Vue In A Pre-existing Loop:*
> 
> If you are changing out your current coolant with Vue then please prep your system with our new PrimoChill System Reboot.
> 
> -
> 
> Given how new and finicky VUE is, I'm going to follow the instructions (I've never used SysPrep in a new loop with regular coolant before).


Yes I agree!
As an old girlfriend once said:
"There's no beauty without pain"
haha

Maybe Primochill should use my idea and only sell it bundled.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> Yes I agree!
> As an old girlfriend once said:
> "There's no beauty without pain"
> haha
> 
> Maybe Primochill should use my idea and only sell it bundled.


Don't understand why they won't do that. I mean they sell their Advanced LRT tubing with Sysprep already, so there is precedence for it.


----------



## bluedevil




----------



## surfinchina

The trippy new Vue.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tg99k7y6p6dhbcd/20171121_163527.mp4?dl=0

To get this effect I need 25% on the pump.
50% is also ok, so I've set my fan profile in bios to highlight the nice effects rather than maximise CPU cooling.
Is this the future of watercooling???
OMG I've gone mad watching the nice colours...


----------



## MNMadman

Wow. That's freaking AWESOME!!!

It's the future of my liquid cooling, though mine won't look as awesome because I don't do hard tubing. Too damn lazy to spend all that time lining things up and doing bends when it can be done in minutes with soft tubing. I think I'll be using some angled fittings for the first time for my next build.

Did you deliberately leave the reservoir that low?

Edit: Never mind ... I saw in your other post that one bottle of VUE wasn't enough to fill it.


----------



## surfinchina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Wow. That's freaking AWESOME!!!
> 
> It's the future of my liquid cooling, though mine won't look as awesome because I don't do hard tubing. Too damn lazy to spend all that time lining things up and doing bends when it can be done in minutes with soft tubing. I think I'll be using some angled fittings for the first time for my next build.
> 
> Did you deliberately leave the reservoir that low?


No. I stuffed up and now I have to get another bottle sent around the world for about 200ml of fluid.
I don't care now because I'm so relaxed watching the fluid.

I think soft tubing can work, you just need to come up with ways to curl the tubes around each other and some angled fittings both ways to throw the Vue into a spin, if you know what I mean.
Creative thinking rather than hard work. I know you can do it because I've seen your posts.


----------



## taowulf

That Vue looks good. I would be tempted to put it in a build for 6 months and see how it does.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *surfinchina*
> 
> If they required the sys prep though, they would have given us two options:
> New system Vue which comes with a bottle of sys prep and a bottle of Vue, and old system Vue which has the reboot and a bottle of Vue all in one nicely packaged box.
> But they didn't, so it's not really a requirement, just a recommendation.
> 
> 
> 
> From the *Instructions* tab on the PrimoChill site:
> 
> *Adding Vue To A New Loop:*
> 
> Just use PrimoChill Sysprep to get your system ready for Vue.
> 
> *Switching To Vue In A Pre-existing Loop:*
> 
> If you are changing out your current coolant with Vue then please prep your system with our new PrimoChill System Reboot.
> 
> -
> 
> Given how new and finicky VUE is, I'm going to follow the instructions (I've never used SysPrep in a new loop with regular coolant before).
Click to expand...

I had actually blitzed my system before I saw them saying you needed to use reboot. I figured it wouldn't do anything but it actually picked up a bunch of dye, so I would say the reboot is definitely worth it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> The instructions for the reboot are to drain the system after running it and then flush again after draining. The Vue requires you drain that fresh DI water from the flush too.
> 
> Unless that reboot is really strong, it shouldn't be in the loop by the time the vue is added. Unless jayz didn't follow the instructions....


You miss the point,it is doing the cleaning...not the Vue. The Vue only sustains the cleanliness.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You miss the point,it is doing the cleaning...not the Vue. The Vue only sustains the cleanliness.


I would be inclined to agree except the claim made that the Vue itself did the cleaning. Then again I have no idea what jayz did or did not do, especially since he stated the loop wasn't well cared for previously.


----------



## looniam

you would think that how gunky those blocks were, he would use something . . . ? ? ?

besidess the razor toothbrush he stated.


----------



## zubzero689

*this is my new build in an new case old hardware thinking on upgrading after the new year*


----------



## Aliveran




----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aliveran*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images:


Can't help but think of TRON when seeing this build. That's not a bad thing though, I love that aesthetic style.


----------



## Deedaz

Got my build finished up, here's a few pics, the vue looks fantastic! More in the log.


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> The glass reservoir should be the closer to realistic view of the coolant. The tubes are likely what's changing the way things look.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i figure that much, but didn't think it would be so drastic. Tried to get it on camera, in person it looks 10x worse, lighting sucks right now.
Click to expand...

Does the glass tube make it look darker? Heck, in my opinion it is kind of a visual magic trick.. How the heck do you have such dark liquid in your reservoir, yet light blue circulating? The uninformed may think the dark blue is going somewhere else, and you can say you haven't figured that part out yet either..


----------



## chutlibre

Hi everyone!

Here is my last build still in work. I was too lazy to do hard tubing


----------



## chutlibre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


Hey!

I don't think this is a good way to mount the tubes on the GPU waterblock. Coolant circulates directly between tubes without circulating into the waterblock.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chutlibre*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> I don't think this is a good way to mount the tubes on the GPU waterblock. Coolant circulates directly between tubes without circulating into the waterblock.


Don't worry it's fine, it's just running in parallel.


----------



## chutlibre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Don't worry it's fine, it's just running in parallel.


Yes I know but it depends a lot on the restriction of both CPU and GPU block. If not the same (usually CPU blocks are more restrictive than GPU ones) the coolant will circulate in the the less restrictive block and theother one will have higher temps (in this case for sure the CPU will heat a few more degrees).


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chutlibre*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> I don't think this is a good way to mount the tubes on the GPU waterblock. Coolant circulates directly between tubes without circulating into the waterblock.


Temps are 28C at idle for the 1600X, and 31C at idle on the R9 290. Temps are great, the water will reach a equalization point and it wont matter.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Temps are 28C at idle for the 1600X, and 31C at idle on the R9 290. Temps are great, the water will reach a equalization point and it wont matter.


To really know one would need to measure flow across the GPU blocks and across the CPU block in both parallel and series configurations.

But as long as flow is good (at least .75-1GPM to each block), the difference shouldn't be huge. A few degrees c one way or the other.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chutlibre*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> I don't think this is a good way to mount the tubes on the GPU waterblock. Coolant circulates directly between tubes without circulating into the waterblock.


Not true.

I have a few rigs with parallel blocks...one has parallel blocks and parallel rads. Temps are equivalent.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chutlibre*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> I don't think this is a good way to mount the tubes on the GPU waterblock. Coolant circulates directly between tubes without circulating into the waterblock.


That's not entirely true. I've built a parallel loop for a friend and it works perfectly fine. Temps are within 1 or 2°C of serial setup. So works and looks great.


----------



## nanotm

maybe semantics but those two bits of kit are clearly in series parallel, the only thing i would be tempted to do was use something like the vue coolant so i could watch the actual flow speed when in use and that just so i could watch it move around the blocks for a function check....

the water will either move round the loop or it wont due to hydraulic lock, you remove hydraulic lock by adding heat within the block at which point convection forces flow to start and the hydraulic lock is broken..... will be an optimum cooling performance compared with other loop setups or will there be no observable performance difference..... I'd edge towards the latter since changing the loop would necessitate changing the fluid and then changes of 1 degree C are within standard performance delta's for mediums and loop lengths changes....

realistically there is a minor chance that the parts might heat up on boot a touch faster under one loop configuration than the other but by the time your at a steady desktop state its likely to be pretty damn close to identical, and possibly slightly lower since the parallel flow will move cold water into all blocks rather than just the first one in a series loop, this in turn will also move warm water to the rad only and not through all the other blocks on the way there..... the cold water will leave the rad and hit the res before returning to the blocks where it enters all of them at the optimum flow rate...

so possible faster speed to steady state running temp versus slightly reduced load temps, or lower boot up temps meaning longer time to achieve normal running temp and slightly elevated load temps.... I'd go with the first option and series parallel the loop /


----------



## supanat sr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chutlibre*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> I don't think this is a good way to mount the tubes on the GPU waterblock. Coolant circulates directly between tubes without circulating into the waterblock.


That loop is "parallel" that be work without any problem if pump had high power. parallel doesn't mean "short circuit" short circuit loop that wrong for newbie setup. that make no flow into the water block cause restriction water block it higher than tube. the coolant must be flow at lower restriction just look like electrical short circuit


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supanat sr*
> 
> That loop is "parallel" that be work without any problem if pump had high power. parallel doesn't mean "short circuit" short circuit loop that wrong for newbie setup. that make no flow into the water block cause restriction water block it higher than tube. the coolant must be flow at lower restriction just look like electrical short circuit


Exactly, I have ran 2 GPUs in parallel with the CPU block with a DDC and never had a issue. This is no different. Like I said temps are great, flow is great, since I can see the flow. Hell I might just get a flow meter from Primochill soon.


----------



## Jflisk

Hopefully B Neg does not mind me asking in this thread and considering most of the high end builders come to this thread. I have a I7-4970K 2x Fury X , Plan on upgrading to I7-8700K and Nvidia GTX 1080 is this a good upgrade path or is there a better suggestion for an upgrade path. All this is going underwater with my XSPC Pro block and a water cooled GTX1080 . Also Looks like the XSPC pro block will do 1150 and 1151 socket type, does anyone know if I have to change out the Hold down for the CPU block or all the same 1150-1151. Thanks in advance


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Hopefully B Neg does not mind me asking in this thread and considering most of the high end builders come to this thread. I have a I7-4970K 2x Fury X , Plan on upgrading to I7-8700K and Nvidia GTX 1080 is this a good upgrade path or is there a better suggestion for an upgrade path. All this is going underwater with my XSPC Pro block and a water cooled GTX1080 . Also Looks like the XSPC pro block will do 1150 and 1151 socket type, does anyone know if I have to change out the Hold down for the CPU block or all the same 1150-1151. Thanks in advance


As far as upgrade paths go that's fairly ok I guess. Depending on the resolution and work you will be putting on your GPU I might be inclined to recommend a 1080Ti instead, but there is no need to waste money if you don't need/want it. As for the blocks, all the 115x sockets have the same screw spacing so any block that works on Haswell will also work fine on coffee lake without any issues.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say it's not a bad one, the 4790k is still a beast of a CPU though. My own 1080 has not left me disappointed in games etc, but I'm eyeing a 1080 Ti now.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As far as upgrade paths go that's fairly ok I guess. Depending on the resolution and work you will be putting on your GPU I might be inclined to recommend a 1080Ti instead, but there is no need to waste money if you don't need/want it. As for the blocks, all the 115x sockets have the same screw spacing so any block that works on Haswell will also work fine on coffee lake without any issues.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would say it's not a bad one, the 4790k is still a beast of a CPU though. My own 1080 has not left me disappointed in games etc, but I'm eyeing a 1080 Ti now.


So I would be better of with the 1080TI , I was hoping of taking advantage of a card that comes pre waterblocked . I can install my own but I think pre water blocked comes slightly under the price of adding my own. Thanks


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> So I would be better of with the 1080TI , I was hoping of taking advantage of a card that comes pre waterblocked . I can install my own but I think pre water blocked comes slightly under the price of adding my own. Thanks


Depends a lot on the price of the specific grpahics card. Typically a lot of the cards that come with factory mounted blocks are ridiculusly overpriced, so you are better off just doing it yourself. The best way to check though would be to find the specific blockt hat you may want to mount on the card (whether it be a 1080 or a 1080Ti), note the price of that block and see what you can get a reference card for. As for cards that come with factory mounted blocks (not counting hybrids like the Poseidon) both MSI and EVGA has those available, and I think Gigabyte might have some as well (though that might just be on earlier generation cards).

As for performance... It all depends on what you want to do with the card. The 1080Ti is a really good step above the 1080, and offers a far larger difference than you would get between the 1070 and 1080 for example. That said, if you are gaming on 1440p then the 1080 will likely serve you well until your next upgrade. However if you want to attempt 4k, 1440p 100hz+ or even 1440 ultra wide a 1080Ti is likely your only real bet for smooth performance over the board (especially under water, as it easily keeps it's 2Ghz+ boost clock indefinitely). As for if you want to do render work with it and things like that... you might want to consider a Ryzen 7 and a 1080Ti for more balanced rendering rig.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Depends a lot on the price of the specific grpahics card. Typically a lot of the cards that come with factory mounted blocks are ridiculusly overpriced, so you are better off just doing it yourself. The best way to check though would be to find the specific blockt hat you may want to mount on the card (whether it be a 1080 or a 1080Ti), note the price of that block and see what you can get a reference card for. As for cards that come with factory mounted blocks (not counting hybrids like the Poseidon) both MSI and EVGA has those available, and I think Gigabyte might have some as well (though that might just be on earlier generation cards).
> 
> As for performance... It all depends on what you want to do with the card. The 1080Ti is a really good step above the 1080, and offers a far larger difference than you would get between the 1070 and 1080 for example. That said, if you are gaming on 1440p then the 1080 will likely serve you well until your next upgrade. However if you want to attempt 4k, 1440p 100hz+ or even 1440 ultra wide a 1080Ti is likely your only real bet for smooth performance over the board (especially under water, as it easily keeps it's 2Ghz+ boost clock indefinitely). As for if you want to do render work with it and things like that... you might want to consider a Ryzen 7 and a 1080Ti for more balanced rendering rig.


I am going to use it for gaming mainly, So something that allows me to take advantage of 1440 x 2550(think this second number is right been awhile) at 60fps . I can maintain that now with what I have but some games drop to 50 FPS from time to time and the 4970K and Furies are getting long in the tooth. Thanks


----------



## dwolvin

QHD is 2560 by 1440, and it's an eye opener. I grabbed a Yamakasi off of Ebay back in the day and can't imagine going lower res! (but now I'm eyeing an ultrawide QHD)


----------



## khemist




----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*


That's a nice looking machine there.


----------



## bluedevil

For all the naysayers....


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> QHD is 2560 by 1440, and it's an eye opener. I grabbed a Yamakasi off of Ebay back in the day and can't imagine going lower res! (but now I'm eyeing an ultrawide QHD)


Agree, I nabbed an used Overlord 2560 x 1440p off an individual here. It an older model one with only a D-DVI hook up but still works great.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Agree, I nabbed an used Overlord 2560 x 1440p off an individual here. It an older model one with only a D-DVI hook up but still works great.


I'm still using an older qnix @ 96hz


----------



## DarthBaggins

Extremely happy with my Acer XF270HU, not shelling out for GSync since the 1080 runs 1440p 90-144hz no problem (especially under it's block and nice OC)


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Hopefully B Neg does not mind me asking in this thread and considering most of the high end builders come to this thread. I have a I7-4970K 2x Fury X , Plan on upgrading to I7-8700K and Nvidia GTX 1080 is this a good upgrade path or is there a better suggestion for an upgrade path. All this is going underwater with my XSPC Pro block and a water cooled GTX1080 . Also Looks like the XSPC pro block will do 1150 and 1151 socket type, does anyone know if I have to change out the Hold down for the CPU block or all the same 1150-1151. Thanks in advance


Honestly depends what you are looking for. I've gone from a 4790k and 2x thx 780s to a 8700 and a single htx 1080 and outside benchmarks I don't have much difference in games and render times are not even. That different.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> For all the naysayers....


To be clear, I'm not a naysayer









But out of curiosity, you did pair a CPU block with almost double the restriction of your GPU block at 1GPM, so in theory the flow trough your CPU block should be much lower considering path of least resistance.

If you lower your pump speed, do your CPU temps get affected first or do the both get affected similarly?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Honestly depends what you are looking for. I've gone from a 4790k and 2x thx 780s to a 8700 and a single htx 1080 and outside benchmarks I don't have much difference in games and render times are not even. That different.


That's what I am looking for Like is it even worth it for me to upgrade at this point.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> So I would be better of with the 1080TI , I was hoping of taking advantage of a card that comes pre waterblocked . I can install my own but I think pre water blocked comes slightly under the price of adding my own. Thanks


Could always look at the EVGA 1080Ti Hydrocopper or MSI EK SeaHawk X, personally I would just look towards updating/upgrading the GPU - as I said before the 4790k is still a monster of a CPU


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> To be clear, I'm not a naysayer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But out of curiosity, you did pair a CPU block with almost double the restriction of your GPU block at 1GPM, so in theory the flow trough your CPU block should be much lower considering path of least resistance.
> 
> If you lower your pump speed, do your CPU temps get affected first or do the both get affected similarly?


I am not worried at all, that and that's the only cpu block I have on hand, plus I run the pump at full blast.


----------



## supanat sr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I am not worried at all, that and that's the only cpu block I have on hand, plus I run the pump at full blast.


Full blast with DDC, The noise it terrible! .....lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

DDC's aren't noisy. . Lol


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chutlibre*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Don't worry it's fine, it's just running in parallel.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I know but it depends a lot on the restriction of both CPU and GPU block. If not the same (usually CPU blocks are more restrictive than GPU ones) the coolant will circulate in the the less restrictive block and theother one will have higher temps (in this case for sure the CPU will heat a few more degrees).
Click to expand...

don't let that _avg CPU restriction_ throw you off; many many blocks have ~same and lower:



hope that settles it for everyone.


----------



## chutlibre

Thanks, that's a very usefull graph for recent CPU blocks!


----------



## chutlibre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Depends a lot on the price of the specific grpahics card. Typically a lot of the cards that come with factory mounted blocks are ridiculusly overpriced, so you are better off just doing it yourself. The best way to check though would be to find the specific blockt hat you may want to mount on the card (whether it be a 1080 or a 1080Ti), note the price of that block and see what you can get a reference card for. As for cards that come with factory mounted blocks (not counting hybrids like the Poseidon) both MSI and EVGA has those available, and I think Gigabyte might have some as well (though that might just be on earlier generation cards).
> 
> As for performance... It all depends on what you want to do with the card. The 1080Ti is a really good step above the 1080, and offers a far larger difference than you would get between the 1070 and 1080 for example. That said, if you are gaming on 1440p then the 1080 will likely serve you well until your next upgrade. However if you want to attempt 4k, 1440p 100hz+ or even 1440 ultra wide a 1080Ti is likely your only real bet for smooth performance over the board (especially under water, as it easily keeps it's 2Ghz+ boost clock indefinitely). As for if you want to do render work with it and things like that... you might want to consider a Ryzen 7 and a 1080Ti for more balanced rendering rig.


I can't agree more. I have an AOC 35'' 3440x1440 g-sync and the 1080Ti is a must have if you want to achieve more than 60fps in the most demanding games.In wildlands I have min 58FPS and avg 65FPS, in BF1 I almost always have 100 (no more because I limit the framerate to the max of my screen), same for Destiny 2.
Go for the cheaper 1080Ti you find and verify that there is a block for it. Doesn't really matter the version you buy under water. For ex FE are very good ones but you'll need to flash a bios if you're under water which migth not be the case if you buy a 1080Ti that has a very high power limit and current limit. For ex I have an MSI 1080Ti gaming X and I had to flash the XOC bios (no power limit) under water to not always hit the power limit and keep very stable 2050Mhz.


----------



## chutlibre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Could always look at the EVGA 1080Ti Hydrocopper or MSI EK SeaHawk X, personally I would just look towards updating/upgrading the GPU - as I said before the 4790k is still a monster of a CPU


I changed from an 4790k @4.6 to a 7700k @5.0 and the difference is reeeeaaallly small in games so I totally agree. If you can sell your 4790K for a good price and buy a new one for a few bucks you can go for it but as said before I would also look first to a 1080Ti for sure and then for the new CPU. And if you like to tweak just go for the cheaper 1080ti+EK waterblock or the cheaper combo you find and flash the XOC bios under water. Performance will be the same for all the 1080ti when OC and it's just about the chip lottery. There's many people that have better results with a flashed FE than the flashed strix OC or other just because at this point nothing but the OC ability of the chip really matter.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> That's what I am looking for Like is it even worth it for me to upgrade at this point.


I was under the impression that you wanted an all new platform, hence why I said what I said. Now as to what I would personally do... Just upgrade your GPU first off, anything above a 1080 hasn't really been that affected by the mining craze simply due to the price to hash rates. Memory prices has however increased a significant amount due to the current shortages of chips. So Getting a 1080 or a 1080Ti at this point might cost you 20-50$ more than earlier this year, but due to ram prices the ddr4 would set you back a couple hundred dollars extra alone due to the shortages.

If you still feel that your current platform is holding you back after you get a new card you can always upgrade when Zen+ is released and hopefully ram prices has stabilized. The main reason I'm mentioning Zen+ is that if everything goes as planned it should clock higher than current Ryzen CPUs. If nothing else that might make it even more compelling for Intel to do some price drops as they would essentially loose their only advantage. IF that doesn't pan out though then at the very least there will be coffee lake refresh and all that.

Simply put, wait until ram prices fall down to normal levels before changing platform, but feel free to get a new high end GPU in the meantime.


----------



## poisson21

hello,

i have a little problem, i have an external Mora 420 with 9 fan on it, i use a 9 way splitter for them, no problem, but today i'd have a problem with the extension cable that goes to the splitter, the male 3 pin literaly burn (stopping the metal contact and the fan) when i put my fan to max for a temp problem. I use a phobya 60 cm extension that is supply by a molex throught a 3 position button on my case.

Until now i have no problem with this setting when i put my fan to max but with this i'm affraid to do so again.

Anyone know a good extension that support easilly 9 fan at max ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> hello,
> i have a little problem, i have an external Mora 420 with 9 fan on it, i use a 9 way splitter for them, no problem, but today i'd have a problem with the extension cable that goes to the splitter, the male 3 pin literaly burn (stopping the metal contact and the fan) when i put my fan to max for a temp problem. I use a phobya 60 cm extension that is supply by a molex throught a 3 position button on my case.
> Until now i have no problem with this setting when i put my fan to max but with this i'm affraid to do so again.
> Anyone know a good extension that support easilly 9 fan at max ?


Depends a lot on the fans in use, but considering the gauge of the first wire was to small I would expect that most splitter cables would have the same issue. My advice would be to make your own, or get a fan hub that supports 9 fans.


----------



## poisson21

The splitter is fine, not really hot by himself, it's the extension the problem..


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> The splitter is fine, not really hot by himself, it's the extension the problem..


I see, are you running a regular fan extension cable? those have really thin wires and were never really designed to handle the current of 9 high performance fans at the same time. If you could then I would get a molex or sata power cable extension and just run that out. Then just do a short conversion to a 3 pin fan cable. The best would be to make a regular 3 pin fan cable yourself, but for that you would need crimping tools and all the necessities. Still I would expect that you would need to go up in wire size to be able to handle that current draw. Other than that you might want to try running 9 extension cables and using the splitter at the end point in front of the fan controller instead of in front of a extension cable.


----------



## poisson21

I'll try something , for now i bring closer my mora and the fan to plug the splitter directly in the outpout of the fan "controller" of the case. Not using them at max and pray that it stay because the connector are a little loose.

I choose to use the splitter directly at the back of the mora because usually my rad is at more than 1m from my case so 9 cables for the fan, 1 for the pump, the 2 tube .. it make a lot between the case and the rad.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> I'll try something , for now i bring closer my mora and the fan to plug the splitter directly in the outpout of the fan "controller" of the case. Not using them at max and pray that it stay because the connector are a little loose.
> I choose to use the splitter directly at the back of the mora because usually my rad is at more than 1m from my case so 9 cables for the fan, 1 for the pump, the 2 tube .. it make a lot between the case and the rad.


It's a lot of cables, but if you are adamant at using your current controller and if your'e not up for a DIY solution. I would say that running a fan extension cable from each fan (totalling in 9) and using the splitter directly after the fan controller is likely the best solution.

As for there being a lot of cables going to and from the MORA and the case, take a page from how they manage cables in server closets. Line up the cables how you want them and zip tie them together about every 5-10cm so that you are left with effectively one thick cable instead of several smaller ones. Cable management is always going to help either way.


----------



## poisson21

I'll try that, but cable management at the back of the mora is awful, especially if you use a cover over your fan like me, and i think with 9 cable i have to mod the litle cable exit that it have.


----------



## frostbite

I added the uv leds and the new side panel


----------



## Jyve

Finally finished up swapping cases and adding a 240. Thermaltake view 31 is the case. Actually pretty nice. TG, plenty of room for cable management.





Sure there far more gorgeous builds than mine but I'm pretty happy. Glad I decided with the inline temp sensor rather than the plug.

Thermaltake lumi rgb kit has magnetic strips! Why did I wait so long to go magnetic vs the tape!? Breakout box sort of sucks and for me has to be on the floor vs the back, but it was cheap.

Next go round I'll break apart the blocks and clean em. Little oxidation on the gpu but not bad.


----------



## huckincharlie

finished bending









http://www.overclock.net/t/1636311/sponsored-one-001-scratch-build-pc


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Świetna robota!
What are the specs?


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> finished bending
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1636311/sponsored-one-001-scratch-build-pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


oops...I just made a mess.

just wow!


----------



## dwolvin

So chrome! Seriously beautiful, what type of tube / pipe?


----------



## Hefner

Does anyone know where I can get the DarkSide D5 pump top? Just found out DazMode doesn't ship intercontinentally, however, the port orientation just makes a lot of sense for my sff build.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get the DarkSide D5 pump top? Just found out DazMode doesn't ship intercontinentally, however, the port orientation just makes a lot of sense for my sff build.


Good luck.









I checked PPC and ModMyMods who sell some Darkside items, no dice.
Looks like you may have to go with a different brand/orientation if Daz won't ship you one.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get the DarkSide D5 pump top? Just found out DazMode doesn't ship intercontinentally, however, the port orientation just makes a lot of sense for my sff build.


Try HighFlow.nl if they do not have it. E-mail them and they will special order for you.


----------



## ruffhi

Not my build ... but a build with a very interesting water route ... res into pump #1 then thru the GPU before going through pump #2.










http://www.corsair.com/it-it/landing/single?id=frozen-gray


----------



## supanat sr

That very clean, nice loop but...No o-ring & Pressure valve for custom reservoir, Just scared leak and damage of that system O.O


----------



## jon666

I think I might do it. Tube-wise, am I missing anything?

http://a.co/8sFG7US


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> I think I might do it. Tube-wise, am I missing anything?
> 
> http://a.co/8sFG7US


more tubes^^


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> more tubes^^


He doesn't need more tubing if he takes his time and rechecks measurements prior to bending. Also even if cutting and using fittings that's enough for a majority of mid towers.

@jon666 what fluid are you using?


----------



## jon666

Distilled water, and its all going into a Cosmos 2. Probably going to stick a 360 rad up top, and leave teh 240 in the bottom. The bottom rad is going to be tricky.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know any store in the US that sells the following Bitspower item?

- BP-MBWP-CT

So far every store I checked is out of stock.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jon666*
> 
> Distilled water, and its all going into a Cosmos 2. Probably going to stick a 360 rad up top, and leave teh 240 in the bottom. The bottom rad is going to be tricky.


Just making sure you were using a fluid that wouldn't cause issues w/ Ttake's parts. We're you going to mount the 240mm on its side where the Cosmos had the intake for the drive bays


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just making sure you were using a fluid that wouldn't cause issues w/ Ttake's parts. We're you going to mount the 240mm on its side where the Cosmos had the intake for the drive bays


water/fluid + ttake makes a man shudder.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Added a new PCI-E extender cable from EZDIY the one that comes with P5 is substandard, also added the 1080 seahawk ekX


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone know any store in the US that sells the following Bitspower item?
> 
> - BP-MBWP-CT
> 
> So far every store I checked is out of stock.


Search Google my friend. Highlight BP-MBWP-CT , right click and select search Google. You will get everyone that carries it. I got it and Frozen was the first link. I wouldn't trust them due to their ongoing issues but the other links should take you to one that may have it in stock. If not, go back to the links and try the next one. Rinse and repeat as necessary.









~Ceadder


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> water/fluid + ttake makes a man shudder.


I'm not a fan of thermal take fluid. It seems like the dye comes out of suspension very easily. I picked up a bottle at the local micro center and it was two colors...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Added a new PCI-E extender cable from EZDIY the one that comes with P5 is substandard, also added the 1080 seahawk ekX


It could be the light, but your loop looks brown.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Yes it`s the lights there is not even any water in it on that picture.


----------



## kla3torsk1

My rig!


----------



## jon666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just making sure you were using a fluid that wouldn't cause issues w/ Ttake's parts. We're you going to mount the 240mm on its side where the Cosmos had the intake for the drive bays


Yup, already have one in there. Might make a cut out for pump res.I have some dyes I haven't tried yet with soft tubing.


----------



## KCDC

Is Mayhems UV dye the best one can get? Just adding to pure distilled+utopia. I added a full bottle to about 1.6 liters, not as reactive as I'd hoped. Just add more? Any other contenders out there? I'm not brand-specific.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get the DarkSide D5 pump top? Just found out DazMode doesn't ship intercontinentally, however, the port orientation just makes a lot of sense for my sff build.


I don't know why they won't sent it to you internationally, I have made orders from there to Europe before so that would be something they started doing in the last couple of years.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Is Mayhems UV dye the best one can get? Just adding to pure distilled+utopia. I added a full bottle to about 1.6 liters, not as reactive as I'd hoped. Just add more? Any other contenders out there? I'm not brand-specific.


From what I understand there is nearly no fluid out there that has a lasting UV effect, or even a substantial one when new either. It has to do with the additives that make it reactive not being able to last very long in light conditions as far as I understand. I really have no clue what I'm talking about though and I'm only relying info that others have written before me. Feel free to check out the mayhems user club though, as I'm sure you will find lots of experienced guys and gals there as well as in this thread.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Is Mayhems UV dye the best one can get? Just adding to pure distilled+utopia. I added a full bottle to about 1.6 liters, not as reactive as I'd hoped. Just add more? Any other contenders out there? I'm not brand-specific.


UV is very tricky at times It requires darker areas and decent UV LED lighting. It's usually not the Coolant but the light and area of the case.

I know both Mayhem & EK can work well with UV LED's.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Search Google my friend. Highlight BP-MBWP-CT , right click and select search Google. You will get everyone that carries it. I got it and Frozen was the first link. I wouldn't trust them due to their ongoing issues but the other links should take you to one that may have it in stock. If not, go back to the links and try the next one. Rinse and repeat as necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Already tried that before I asked here







, all stores are Sold Out in the US. I wouldn't use frozenCPU even if it was the last watercooling store in the country. I did find two extra laying under a bunch of cables. No need to keep looking.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I don't know why they won't sent it to you internationally, I have made orders from there to Europe before so that would be something they started doing in the last couple of years.


The FAQ on DazMode mentions that they only ship to within Canada and the USA.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> The FAQ on DazMode mentions that they only ship to within Canada and the USA.


They stopped shipping overseas, they also moved not to long ago. I know there is zero discount on shipping, whatever UPS charges normally is what your going to pay. It might not be worth shipping outside North America for them. They only ship outside NA for bulk order for WaterCooling stores.

Performance-pcs can special order the item for you and ship it once it arrives.
ModMymods can sometimes also special order items, They carry allot of DarkSide products it shouldn't be much of an issue for them to order it.
HighFlow.nl also does special ordering (Euro)

All ship world-wide.


----------



## nyk20z3

Question for you guys -

I just finished another build up with the following specs.

Phanteks Shift X
Asus Strix Z370-I Gaming
8700K
G.Skill Trident Z 3000mhz 16GB
Samsung 960 EVO 500GB NVMe
Asus Strix 1080 Ti OC

Water Cooling -

Phanteks Glacier C350I Block
Phanteks Glacier G1080 Ti Strix Block
EK 280 SE
EK DDC 5 watt which is low i know, i pulled it out of a basic EK kit from MC since my EK XRES 140 was to tall for this case so i ditched it and the D5 for a quick solution.
Cooler Master 140mm Air Pressure RGB X2
EK Acid Green cryofuel

Now this is the largest rad i could fit in this case with the space allowed, i am use to doing builds with at least a 360 rad and beyond but ive been more in to mini builds lately. I started to do some testing today running Crysis 3 at 3440X1440 and Ultra everything no AA. Within 10 minutes i was hitting 80C on the 8700K at full fan speed and around 55C on the gpu which is much higher then i am use to gpu temp wise but obviously still within reason. The problem is the cpu temps so i regret not delidding the chip before installing it.

My question is can i disbaled HT in the mean time before i upgrade the pump and delid to help with temps ?. Ive never disabled HT before but heard it can help in this regard as a temp fix to keep the heat down. The 8700K is boosting to 4.7ghz with around 1.3V out the box as is and at 6 cores of course its going to dump heat. .


----------



## OverSightX

I moved and after 3 months finally got her back up and running. Decided to go with white tubing. Debating if I should go hard tubing whenever I decide to go toa single 1080 ti or next gen GPU. hmmmm


----------



## jon666

Doubled up on piping for my order. I am stoked. I think I might do a build log if I can be bothered to dust off my camera.


----------



## frostbite

Well I think I got conned by xspc with the uv leds. I found my old lumi nox uv light and what a difference



From this



Looks like Ill be getting the uv ccfls


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Well I think I got conned by xspc with the uv leds. I found my old lumi nox uv light and what a difference
> 
> 
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Ill be getting the uv ccfls


I had CCFLs for a while, 5 12 inch ones... They give off better, even light, but it's really dim due to the tubes being so thin. My casemod UV LEDs give off way more light, but less even spread. Just thought it was worth mentioning. they're kind of a pain to deal with as well with the transformer box and all the extra wiring. Makes for a good bit of a mess if you don't plan it out well.


----------



## frostbite

I have always usef ccfl's, just tried the leds because the block and res have recess's for them,

I domt know if the uv tubes degrade the coolant


----------



## Ceadderman

Anyone know what the Holiday Code for Xmas is on PPCs? I asked prior to Veterans Day and got no response. I saw they were having Free Shipping thru the 3rd December but I got Presents to buy that aren't watercooling related.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Anyone know what the Holiday Code for Xmas is on PPCs? I asked prior to Veterans Day and got no response. I saw they were having Free Shipping thru the 3rd December but I got Presents to buy that aren't watercooling related.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If I had to guess it will be the following:

Christmas-8
or
Holidays17-8

The codes are useless until PPCS active the code, Which will still be a week or two. Should have used the Black Friday or Cyber Monday codes when they were active.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I have always usef ccfl's, just tried the leds because the block and res have recess's for them,
> 
> I domt know if the uv tubes degrade the coolant


They shouldn't My UV coolant is still very active after two years.


----------



## Shweller

My latest build is now complete. My ROG themed RGB hard line build. First hard line watercooled set up I have built.


----------



## khemist

Picked up a glass xres 100 and pwm pump, my Bitspower ones get scratched too easily.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Two quick questions!

I've cleaned the entire loop with really hot tapwater. I don't know if that's a good idea or not, but I did it.









I've had something in my loop. Some gunk that I've wanted to get rid of. I've previously used distilled water, but cleaned everything and ordered new hoses (EK ZMT) and Cryofuel clear. It added a think, gunky layer of sorts on everything. If I clean the old tubes, they look as good as new.

Tips?

EDIT: I have one CPU block, one GPU block and one MO-RA3 420LT and a XE240.. Is there any point keeping the last radiator? I have it set up for it, but is it really needed?


----------



## supanat sr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Two quick questions!
> 
> I've cleaned the entire loop with really hot tapwater. I don't know if that's a good idea or not, but I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had something in my loop. Some gunk that I've wanted to get rid of. I've previously used distilled water, but cleaned everything and ordered new hoses (EK ZMT) and Cryofuel clear. It added a think, gunky layer of sorts on everything. If I clean the old tubes, they look as good as new.
> 
> Tips?
> 
> EDIT: I have one CPU block, one GPU block and one MO-RA3 420LT and a XE240.. Is there any point keeping the last radiator? I have it set up for it, but is it really needed?


if you clean loop with fill hot water in loop and start pump may have damage for pump cause hot water can do motor overheat









When you clean, you must teardown loop, all of waterblock pump and radiator then easier and faster clean of your loop.


----------



## poisson21

With my MO-RA 420 pro, i cool my cpu and 2 rx vega overclocked and my temp didn't exceed 45° at max on load with 9 fan at half speed, so your last rad is not really needed.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supanat sr*
> 
> if you clean loop with fill hot water in loop and start pump may have damage for pump cause hot water can do motor overheat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you clean, you must teardown loop, all of waterblock pump and radiator then easier and faster clean of your loop.


Yeah. The loop is in parts and I have cleaned everything individually.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> With my MO-RA 420 pro, i cool my cpu and 2 rx vega overclocked and my temp didn't exceed 45° at max on load with 9 fan at half speed, so your last rad is not really needed.


Okei. I will be running a single 8700K delidded (so much cooler than this 7820X) and my 1080Ti is undervolted, so using around 200 watts under load. I'm using 4 Bitfenix Spectre fans at around 500-700 rpm.

Would I get a more than a few degrees difference if I add that again? I even have a XTX360 in my closet. But I doubt that'd do anything.

EDIT: Do you know the difference between the LT and Pro?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice builds guys and gals









My first loop kit and added a mono block to my x299
Haven't hard piped yet seeing I've been working out thermal issues and soft pipe makes it so much easier to work on things so hard pipe is on hold
Need a larger case obviously had to get a shorter reservoir because of the long 1080ti
Other is my x99 sabertooth


----------



## poisson21

With the pro you can mount fan on each side of the mora for a pull-push config. I use it for my pump and 2 big res (3L each)to have a good temp inertia, with the efficiency of the mora it work great.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Yeah. The loop is in parts and I have cleaned everything individually.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okei. I will be running a single 8700K delidded (so much cooler than this 7820X) and my 1080Ti is undervolted, so using around 200 watts under load. I'm using 4 Bitfenix Spectre fans at around 500-700 rpm.
> 
> Would I get a more than a few degrees difference if I add that again? I even have a XTX360 in my closet. But I doubt that'd do anything.
> 
> EDIT: Do you know the difference between the LT and Pro?


I doubt you'd see even a degree difference with the extra rad given how little you're loading the MO-RA. It's probably not worth the effort to add any additional radiators.


----------



## emsj86

Yea with what you have it makes no sense. Other than maybe you could get away with fans not running until load


----------



## Vlada011

No one simple question, 10/13mm compression fittings...

EKWB ACF Nickel vs Alphacool Eiszapfen Chrome or Bitspower Shiny Silver
I heared some Bitspower fittings are not compatible with other parts, and topic was here.
I think Bitspower V3 series.

But what you think about Bitspower Truesilver.
For soft tubes, I need arround 8-10.

I like more fittings without any logo, but if EKWB are more reliable and better quality OK.

Price is better if I buy 6 pack + 4 pack, Bitspower cost almost twice more but is it worth.


----------



## poisson21

You could also go for barrow , nearly same as bitspower but cheaper.


----------



## nycgtr

WIP. Ran outta petg gotta wait till thursday for delivery LOL. 50mm extensions pulling standby duty. Dual loop in enthoo evolv.


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> No one simple question, 10/13mm compression fittings...
> 
> EKWB ACF Nickel vs Alphacool Eiszapfen Chrome or Bitspower Shiny Silver
> I heared some Bitspower fittings are not compatible with other parts, and topic was here.
> I think Bitspower V3 series.
> 
> But what you think about Bitspower Truesilver.
> For soft tubes, I need arround 8-10.
> 
> I like more fittings without any logo, but if EKWB are more reliable and better quality OK.
> 
> Price is better if I buy 6 pack + 4 pack, Bitspower cost almost twice more but is it worth.


Go with EK. It is cheaper and its good quality.
I had for soft tubing, now i have for rigid tubing and its ok.


----------



## Vlada011

It's not cheaper EKWB ACF and Alphacool are same price.
Alphacool no logo on them. Because of that I asked.
Bistpower Shiny Silver cost almost twice.


----------



## poisson21

Look for barrow, same as bitspower but with no logo.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/barrow-satin-G1-4-coin-four-points-pagoda-type-connector-TB4C-C01/431286_1165884251.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.100faf2cxrE4Sz


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up a glass xres 100 and pwm pump, my Bitspower ones get scratched too easily.


That's very nice.
Why people not choose Glass reservoir from EKWB more often.
Is there some problem, maybe some disadvantages...?

Did you sleeved pump or EKWB? I know they sleeve some models,
but on their site Glass is not sleeves. Anyway I have MDPC-X black at home.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> Look for barrow, same as bitspower but with no logo.
> https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/barrow-satin-G1-4-coin-four-points-pagoda-type-connector-TB4C-C01/431286_1165884251.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.100faf2cxrE4Sz


I need only straith fittings, and Bitspower no logo, I would not like to mess with clones.
When I thought about Alphacool, they have some prety new series, from 2016 I think Eiszapfen.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> That's very nice.
> Why people not choose Glass reservoir from EKWB more often.
> Is there some problem, maybe some disadvantages...?
> 
> Did you sleeved pump or EKWB? I know they sleeve some models,
> but on their site Glass is not sleeves. Anyway I have MDPC-X black at home.
> I need only straith fittings, and Bitspower no logo, I would not like to mess with clones.
> When I thought about Alphacool, they have some prety new series, from 2016 I think Eiszapfen.


if it's mission critical (i.e. somewhere extremely sensitive to leakage or very very hard to access) then go with Bitspower. Otherwise, EK is sufficient.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> That's very nice.
> Why people not choose Glass reservoir from EKWB more often.
> Is there some problem, maybe some disadvantages...?
> 
> Did you sleeved pump or EKWB? I know they sleeve some models,
> but on their site Glass is not sleeves. Anyway I have MDPC-X black at home.
> I need only straith fittings, and Bitspower no logo, I would not like to mess with clones.
> When I thought about Alphacool, they have some prety new series, from 2016 I think Eiszapfen.


I wish there was a bigger selection of glass reservoirs out there, maybe Bitspower will do them one day and yeah, i sleeved it in MDPC-X Carbon BTI.


----------



## poisson21

@Vlada011

Barrow is not really a clone, they have evolved from that and have really good quality fitting but cheapper.

You can find anything you want in their product line.

comparing alphacool and barrow ones from modmymods.

https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eiszapfen-1-2-id-x-3-4-od-g1-4-compression-fitting-chrome-17239.html

https://modmymods.com/barrow-g1-4-thread-1-2-id-x-3-4-od-compression-fitting-silver-thkn-1-2-v3-silver.html

Same, but half the price, and every companie have nearly the same design...


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> @Vlada011
> 
> Barrow is not really a clone, they have evolved from that and have really good quality fitting but cheapper.
> You can find anything you want in their product line.
> comparing alphacool and barrow ones from modmymods.
> https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eiszapfen-1-2-id-x-3-4-od-g1-4-compression-fitting-chrome-17239.html
> https://modmymods.com/barrow-g1-4-thread-1-2-id-x-3-4-od-compression-fitting-silver-thkn-1-2-v3-silver.html
> Same, but half the price, and every companie have nearly the same design...


That's huge price difference. 2 for 1.
What people say about these Alphacool?


----------



## poisson21

I can't say about the alphacool but following the barrow thread, people are really satisfied with theirs.


----------



## SavantStrike

I like both the barrow and alphacool fittings. I've used both and they are both of excellent quality.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I like both the barrow and alphacool fittings. I've used both and they are both of excellent quality.


Sad how knock off artists are supported here. Spare me the you can only make a fitting so many ways. I've seen two companies do it on a consistent basis and they aren't knocking off anyone.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I wish there was a bigger selection of glass reservoirs out there, maybe Bitspower will do them one day and yeah, i sleeved it in MDPC-X Carbon BTI.


There is a nice selection out there, you could also get a glass tube custom made from a glass shop.

Companies who make Glass Res:

- WaterCool
- Barrow
- Aqua-Computer
- EK
- XS-PC


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> That's huge price difference. 2 for 1.
> What people say about these Alphacool?


Hi there

I'm using exclusively only Barrow fittings in my build and they're been flawless or never have issues with them and build with these fittings around 5 builds and never have issues with them

Regarding the Alphacool fittings, have used only 45° and 90° fittings and both these fittings leaked after first leak testing and due this I would be very careful with them

Used like EK or XSPC fittings and all of them they're been OK,no issues

Barrow I chosen due the easy availability over here and price,UK eBay seller is very good and offers good prices plus shipping is pretty fast

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## nyk20z3

Shift X -


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> WIP. Ran outta petg gotta wait till thursday for delivery LOL. 50mm extensions pulling standby duty. Dual loop in enthoo evolv.


Nice bends. Rigid tubing is truly a form of art imo.


----------



## nycgtr

it's alive


----------



## Vlada011

OK I decide, EKWB adapter 45 or 90 if need but fittings Bitspower 13/10mm.
They will cost me exactly 30$ more than Alphacool on 10 fittings, that's not small price, but with EKWB adapter and Bitspower fittings It should be logo free build.
I suppose EKWB Nickel and Shinly Silver Bitspower fit nicely. EKWB fittings have thread 4.5mm, Alphacool and Bitspower 5mm. That's important because max lenght for EKWB stuff is 5mm.

I don't know but I have confidence in Germans stuff, and my opinion is that maybe new Alphacool fittings are very similar to Bitspower quality.
Bitspower fittings are on market 6-7 years, Alphacool new generation only 2 years.
I ask because I heared a lot of complains on other Alphacool stuff, D5 Tops, radiators, etc but for fittings I didn't heared nothing.


----------



## dicom

+1 for EK. Excellent quality both for Soft and Hard fittings.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sad how knock off artists are supported here. Spare me the you can only make a fitting so many ways. I've seen two companies do it on a consistent basis and they aren't knocking off anyone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hahaha you've got to be kidding me with this comment


----------



## nycgtr

Need to work that lightning. Temps are better than I imagined in this case so far.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sad how knock off artists are supported here. Spare me the you can only make a fitting so many ways. I've seen two companies do it on a consistent basis and they aren't knocking off anyone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Whatever do you mean? If you're going to accuse a company of stealing a design you should offer some kind of proof.


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to work that lightning. Temps are better than I imagined in this case so far.


Nice! Love the cables too.what gpu is that?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shweller*
> 
> Nice! Love the cables too.what gpu is that?


1080ti Poseidon.


----------



## stren

New block from Koolance, can't post the link to more info, cuz rules...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sad how knock off artists are supported here. Spare me the you can only make a fitting so many ways. I've seen two companies do it on a consistent basis and they aren't knocking off anyone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whatever do you mean? If you're going to accuse a company of stealing a design you should offer some kind of proof.
Click to expand...

If you want/require proof, you only need wade through the pages of this thread going back the last 5 years. I'm not gonna do it. It's a well known fact amongst us here at OCN that both ThermalFake and Borrows steal designs and sell them as their own.

Whereas EK, Bitspower and Monsoon all have come out with redesigned fittings that look nothing like their competitor designs. Pretty danged simple if you ask me. Yeah you can only set up an angle fitting so many ways but there is another company(can't remember their name) that put out a real nice looking design that doesn't have a single logo on them to speak of.

I remember when EK had their round csq fittings that had the logo on them. Those were real sharp looking.

Anywhoo I am not leveling baseless claims. Borrows is a knockoff company based in China. Hmmmm wonder how they came by "their" designs.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> New block from Koolance, can't post the link to more info, cuz rules...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good thing I can, then: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2017/12/05/17512/


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you want/require proof, you only need wade through the pages of this thread going back the last 5 years. I'm not gonna do it. It's a well known fact amongst us here at OCN that both ThermalFake and Borrows steal designs and sell them as their own.
> 
> Whereas EK, Bitspower and Monsoon all have come out with redesigned fittings that look nothing like their competitor designs. Pretty danged simple if you ask me. Yeah you can only set up an angle fitting so many ways but there is another company(can't remember their name) that put out a real nice looking design that doesn't have a single logo on them to speak of.
> 
> I remember when EK had their round csq fittings that had the logo on them. Those were real sharp looking.
> 
> Anywhoo I am not leveling baseless claims. Borrows is a knockoff company based in China. Hmmmm wonder how they came by "their" designs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Your answer is a non answer. Claims should be verifiable with empirical data or citations.

Barrow/Bykski produces a number of products that dont exist elsewhere. They have even gone out of their way to make their products unique (and incompatible) in stone cases. If they have a 90 degree fitting that looks similar to another vendors 90, that's hardly some grand conspiracy. Do you have any idea how many different manufacturers make identical looking plumbing parts?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Good thing I can, then: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2017/12/05/17512/


I like it, but I don't like the finish as reviewed. Hopefully it will come in other finishes.


----------



## nycgtr

Anyone ever have excessive vibration or strong pump hum with the bitspower d5 premium tops? I got 2 d5s in each one hums/vibrates very strongly and the other has a higher pitched hum. Didn't have these issues when I was using another pump top. I have the top upright where the pump base faces the bottom.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Anyone ever have excessive vibration or strong pump hum with the bitspower d5 premium tops? I got 2 d5s in each one hums/vibrates very strongly and the other has a higher pitched hum. Didn't have these issues when I was using another pump top. I have the top upright where the pump base faces the bottom.


What kind of vibration damper do those come with? I have 2 EK D5 pumps. They are quiet and I'm using the more rigid of the 2 dampers that they come with.


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Anyone ever have excessive vibration or strong pump hum with the bitspower d5 premium tops? I got 2 d5s in each one hums/vibrates very strongly and the other has a higher pitched hum. Didn't have these issues when I was using another pump top. I have the top upright where the pump base faces the bottom.


Never had any issues with D5 pumps in any configuration to be honest. I still bolt up with at least 1/8" gasket material as a preventative measure. I did run a bay res/pump set up with no way of softening the pump vibration and had no issues. I always run my D5's at at max rpms (4750 rpm)


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> What kind of vibration damper do those come with? I have 2 EK D5 pumps. They are quiet and I'm using the more rigid of the 2 dampers that they come with.


Yea I have 2 ek revo tops as well, no issues there. It doesn't come with any lol. They are both mounted directly to the case with brackets and one is fine, for the most part. It's not dead silent but it's tolerable. The other one is humming strongly.



It's this one and I have it mounted in the orientation as show in the photo.


----------



## IglooDweller

Hi there, longtime lurker coming out of the woodworks. Just finished my very first custom water loop and wanted to share it. I'm calling it "The Kitchen". It started with the turquoise color theme which reminded me of some decorative glass shards I had seen online which in turn made me think of my two favorite meth cooks and their blue specialty. So I put them in a "lab" diorama with an even bigger machinery than in Gus's basement. I was lucky to find model toys in perfect scale. Still not sure if I want to keep it playful or revert it to a more puristic layout.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Hardware: Ryzen 1800X @ 3.9 GHz, Asus Crosshair VI Hero Extreme, 16 GB Trident RGB @ 3200 MHz, Asus Strix 1080 ti OC with Phanteks block, D5 pump + 880 ml reservoir + Aquaero controller by Aquacomputer, fittings + pump cover + tubes by EK, case In Win 909. Cooled by a white Mo-Ra 3 420 radiator under the table which freed up a lot of space inside the case.

One thing I hadn't anticipated were plasticizers from the tubes forming small white particles, but they seem to stay invisible on top of the reservoir as long as I keep the pump below 50 %.

I was really surprised I did everything right from the get-go, only the first PSU (Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 11 650) blew out during the first boot with a loud bang and nearly gave me a heart attack. It was replaced, and thankfully the system started up fine.

Two droplet leaks were repaired, it's been dry since then (about a week). In retrospect I should have tried bending, would have been a heck of a lot cheaper than all the fittings. Maybe next time.


----------



## Streetdragon

why bend if it looks good?


----------



## IglooDweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> why bend if it looks good?


It does, but it also makes one poor. That is to say, even poorer than all the rest of the equipment has made one.


----------



## lexer

Personally i like using the less amounts of angle fitting possible specially rotaries, they just add points of failure. But the igloo build looks fantastic very "industrial" with all of those fittings


----------



## IglooDweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Personally i like using the less amounts of angle fitting possible specially rotaries, they just add points of failure. But the igloo build looks fantastic very "industrial" with all of those fittings


Thanks, that was what I was going for


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IglooDweller*
> 
> Hi there, longtime lurker coming out of the woodworks. Just finished my very first custom water loop and wanted to share it. I'm calling it "The Kitchen". It started with the turquoise color theme which reminded me of some decorative glass shards I had seen online which in turn made me think of my two favorite meth cooks and their blue specialty. So I put them in a "lab" diorama with an even bigger machinery than in Gus's basement. I was lucky to find model toys in perfect scale. Still not sure if I want to keep it playful or revert it to a more puristic layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware: Ryzen 1800X @ 3.9 GHz, Asus Crosshair VI Hero Extreme, 16 GB Trident RGB @ 3200 MHz, Asus Strix 1080 ti OC with Phanteks block, D5 pump + 880 ml reservoir + Aquaero controller by Aquacomputer, fittings + pump cover + tubes by EK, case In Win 909. Cooled by a white Mo-Ra 3 420 radiator under the table which freed up a lot of space inside the case.
> 
> One thing I hadn't anticipated were plasticizers from the tubes forming small white particles, but they seem to stay invisible on top of the reservoir as long as I keep the pump below 50 %.
> 
> I was really surprised I did everything right from the get-go, only the first PSU (Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 11 650) blew out during the first boot with a loud bang and nearly gave me a heart attack. It was replaced, and thankfully the system started up fine.
> 
> Two droplet leaks were repaired, it's been dry since then (about a week). In retrospect I should have tried bending, would have been a heck of a lot cheaper than all the fittings. Maybe next time.


+REP for you! Very Nice build. The RV at the bottom is awesome. That pump top is pretty cool. EK makes nice fittings.


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Personally i like using the less amounts of angle fitting possible specially rotaries, they just add points of failure. But the igloo build looks fantastic very "industrial" with all of those fittings


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IglooDweller*
> 
> Thanks, that was what I was going for


The only leak that I have had was due to a failed rotary Bitspower fitting. They have the nerve to charge you $20 for that said fitting. Its crazy!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you want/require proof, you only need wade through the pages of this thread going back the last 5 years. I'm not gonna do it. It's a well known fact amongst us here at OCN that both ThermalFake and Borrows steal designs and sell them as their own.
> 
> Whereas EK, Bitspower and Monsoon all have come out with redesigned fittings that look nothing like their competitor designs. Pretty danged simple if you ask me. Yeah you can only set up an angle fitting so many ways but there is another company(can't remember their name) that put out a real nice looking design that doesn't have a single logo on them to speak of.
> 
> I remember when EK had their round csq fittings that had the logo on them. Those were real sharp looking.
> 
> Anywhoo I am not leveling baseless claims. Borrows is a knockoff company based in China. Hmmmm wonder how they came by "their" designs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your answer is a non answer. Claims should be verifiable with empirical data or citations.
> 
> Barrow/Bykski produces a number of products that dont exist elsewhere. They have even gone out of their way to make their products unique (and incompatible) in stone cases. If they have a 90 degree fitting that looks similar to another vendors 90, that's hardly some grand conspiracy. Do you have any idea how many different manufacturers make identical looking plumbing parts?
Click to expand...

Well let's see. they knocked off the FrozenQ TVirus Res. They knocked off both EK and BP angle fittings as well as shutoff valves. Good on them for putting something out that nobody else has on the market. It's time to be creative where fittings are concerned. Don't you think?








plumbing parts? Those have existed for over 100 years. But we have new and exciting plumbing materials that (Be still my heart) look nothing like the traditional Copper fittings that require brazing to seal the joints. So please continue down the rabbit hole with your argument. I don't mean this negatively. I like a good back and forth.

Now if only you said "Sincerest form of flattery" you might have swung me. But this has gone on for years and the point of origin is a little country in Asia where EVERYBODY sends their manufacturing to be turned out and shipped back and then sent to the masses. You cannot ignore that sad little reality.

Then with ThermalFake... you be the judge.

EVERYBODY knows this stuff is going on. So really? I have to provide how much information to you to prove my claims which are well known in the community? Seriously? So do I have to prove to you that the sky is blue, the sea green and the sun yellow for you to believe that too? C'mon now.









~Ceadder


----------



## SavantStrike

I never weighed in on thermal take. I haven't bought any of their gear for a decade. They do have a lot of copies, and some poor ones at that. From what I've seen thermal take doesn't design much of anything, they usually put their branding on a product that they sub out the manufacturing on, though I can't prove this.

I still don't see how angle fittings are stolen trade secrets. There are only so many ways to make them, so should barrow add knurling or polka dots just to make sure some enthusiasts don't accuse them of copying another vendor? They have even added the knurling with multiple revisions of the same connector in some cases.

Just because two products look similar I don't see how they can be called a copy.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I never weighed in on thermal take. I haven't bought any of their gear for a decade. They do have a lot of copies, and some poor ones at that. From what I've seen thermal take doesn't design much of anything, they usually put their branding on a product that they sub out the manufacturing on, though I can't prove this.
> 
> I still don't see how angle fittings are stolen trade secrets. *There are only so many ways to make them, so should barrow add knurling or polka dots just to make sure some enthusiasts don't accuse them of copying another vendor?* They have even added the knurling with multiple revisions of the same connector in some cases.
> 
> Just because two products look similar I don't see how they can be called a copy.


Quite honestly? Yes. They should change the look of the exterior in every case where they look like a straight across copy of an existing unit. No they cannot do much for the interior of the component if anything at all. But the brass tax is that the exterior of many of "their" lineup is pretty much exact to the products that inspired their dalliance in the watercooling market. Shoot in this conversation I came up with a different look in my minds eye. Take off less external material and add straight slashes spaced evenly apart. i.e. / / / /... Ooooooh lookie there, I made a corrective change that would give it a different look and take all the accusations, roll them up in a ball to be easily round filed in the waste bin next to my desk.









So yeah, they should do exactly that.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Yeah that sums it up pretty nicely.









~Ceadder


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Latest TR disaster all I can say is this


----------



## TSXmike

An update to the update! version 2.0


----------



## ruffhi

My boiler is off tonight. We had a water leak and the service man came out to do some spot repairs. My air separator is rusted to crap. Thus the connection to the expansion tank leaks ... as does the air vent. He connected a hose up to the drain to empty the system.

I was watching an drew parallels with our water cooling system ...

the air separator is our reservoir (used to keep air out of the system)
the expansion tank is the reservoir water holding system
the drain is the drain ... and it was at the bottom of the loop
my heating system even has a dual loop ... one for the radiators and the other for hot water to the house
From what I could see, I was just running straight water in this system ... no color, no DI, no silver ... maybe that is why my air separator was rusted out







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Latest TR disaster all I can say is this


Not anymore.

Things are changing there.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not anymore.
> 
> Things are changing there.


I'd hope so. Any progress on a performance increase?


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I'd hope so. Any progress on a performance increase?


Considering the changes they've made in upper exec management, I would imagine that will require some major restructuring throughout the entire business. That stuff takes time.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you want/require proof, you only need wade through the pages of this thread going back the last 5 years. I'm not gonna do it. It's a well known fact amongst us here at OCN that both ThermalFake and Borrows steal designs and sell them as their own.
> 
> Whereas EK, Bitspower and Monsoon all have come out with redesigned fittings that look nothing like their competitor designs. Pretty danged simple if you ask me. Yeah you can only set up an angle fitting so many ways but there is another company(can't remember their name) that put out a real nice looking design that doesn't have a single logo on them to speak of.
> 
> I remember when EK had their round csq fittings that had the logo on them. Those were real sharp looking.
> 
> Anywhoo I am not leveling baseless claims. Borrows is a knockoff company based in China. Hmmmm wonder how they came by "their" designs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your answer is a non answer. Claims should be verifiable with empirical data or citations.
> 
> Barrow/Bykski produces a number of products that dont exist elsewhere. They have even gone out of their way to make their products unique (and incompatible) in stone cases. If they have a 90 degree fitting that looks similar to another vendors 90, that's hardly some grand conspiracy. Do you have any idea how many different manufacturers make identical looking plumbing parts?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well let's see. they knocked off the FrozenQ TVirus Res. They knocked off both EK and BP angle fittings as well as shutoff valves. Good on them for putting something out that nobody else has on the market. It's time to be creative where fittings are concerned. Don't you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> plumbing parts? Those have existed for over 100 years. But we have new and exciting plumbing materials that (Be still my heart) look nothing like the traditional Copper fittings that require brazing to seal the joints. So please continue down the rabbit hole with your argument. I don't mean this negatively. I like a good back and forth.
> 
> Now if only you said "Sincerest form of flattery" you might have swung me. But this has gone on for years and the point of origin is a little country in Asia where EVERYBODY sends their manufacturing to be turned out and shipped back and then sent to the masses. You cannot ignore that sad little reality.
> 
> Then with ThermalFake... you be the judge.
> 
> EVERYBODY knows this stuff is going on. So really? I have to provide how much information to you to prove my claims which are well known in the community? Seriously? So do I have to prove to you that the sky is blue, the sea green and the sun yellow for you to believe that too? C'mon now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

This is all pointless banter. Cars all look the same. Car manufacturers literally ape each other year over year when they see a trend. If you want to call an EK and BP a trendsetter, that's fine, but to say anyone is "stealing" anything, when the designs are clearly not patented is just mindless.

I mean that...it's mindless.

Someone had to make the first jeep, the first station wagon, the first modern SUV, the first car with a CVT, and on and on and on.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> This is all pointless banter. Cars all look the same. Car manufacturers literally ape each other year over year when they see a trend. If you want to call an EK and BP a trendsetter, that's fine, but to say anyone is "stealing" anything, when the designs are clearly not patented is just mindless.
> 
> I mean that...it's mindless.
> 
> Someone had to make the first jeep, the first station wagon, the first modern SUV, the first car with a CVT, and on and on and on.


Bad analogy. Car makers jointly develop platforms and licence them.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> This is all pointless banter. Cars all look the same. Car manufacturers literally ape each other year over year when they see a trend.
> 
> If you want to call an EK and BP a trendsetter, that's fine, but to say anyone is "stealing" anything, when the designs are clearly not patented is just mindless.
> 
> I mean that...it's mindless.
> 
> Someone had to make the first jeep, the first station wagon, the first modern SUV, the first car with a CVT, and on and on and on.
> 
> 
> 
> Bad analogy. Car makers jointly develop platforms and licence them.
Click to expand...

I'm sure they do...and everyone just happened to make a Ford Taurus lookalike after that car hit the scene. Give me a break.

You're picking one thing from an industry to argue about when we are talking about designs. Not licensed platforms.

This world is made up of me too companies.

Case in point: http://www.factorytwofour.com/daringly-different-ford-taurus/


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I'm sure they do...and everyone just happened to make a Ford Taurus lookalike after that car hit the scene. Give me a break.
> B
> You're picking one thing from an industry to argue about when we are talking about designs. Not licensed platforms.
> 
> This world is made up of me too companies.
> 
> Case in point: http://www.factorytwofour.com/daringly-different-ford-taurus/


So a design can't be a platform? Really?
You,quite literally, have no idea what you are talking about.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> This is all pointless banter. Cars all look the same. Car manufacturers literally ape each other year over year when they see a trend.
> 
> If you want to call an EK and BP a trendsetter, that's fine, but to say anyone is "stealing" anything, when the designs are clearly not patented is just mindless.
> 
> I mean that...it's mindless.
> 
> Someone had to make the first jeep, the first station wagon, the first modern SUV, the first car with a CVT, and on and on and on.
> 
> 
> 
> Bad analogy. Car makers jointly develop platforms and licence them.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm sure they do...and everyone just happened to make a Ford Taurus lookalike after that car hit the scene. Give me a break.
> 
> You're picking one thing from an industry to argue about when we are talking about designs. Not licensed platforms.
> 
> This world is made up of me too companies.
> 
> Case in point: http://www.factorytwofour.com/daringly-different-ford-taurus/
Click to expand...

Please show me another manufacture that actually looks like a Taurus other than the Mercury Sable which is no longer manufactured and whose company no longer exists due to Ford dropping them from their lineup. If anything, you really cannot because there are subtle changes to the body of each manufacturer line.

And this follows B's point that manufacturers work together in the Automotive industry. None of that exists in the computer watercooling market. You will not find EK working with Borrows or Tt working with Alphacool. Computer part manufacturers like ASUS do, because they don't know enough about the community and you wouldn't call up Tesla, Porsche, Nissan, Honda or Toyota to tell you how to design a motherboard block and which materials which to avoid or use.

Again on the Automotive front... you will find things that made it from one manufacturer's designs to another's but that happens when one owns the other. Case in point. Mercedes and Mopar vehicles. Mercedes bought Dodge. Patents become part of the brand and when Mercedes sold Mopar, their patent rights became part of Mopar as a result. Likewise Ford with Jaguar. You don't see this *at all* with the Computer watercooling market. I'm certain that exterior designs of parts and fittings could and *should* be left to their own when a new entrant joins the market. Monsoon??? They haven't used another company's designs at all. Yet they still manage to turn out fine products without infringement.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


I'm pretty sure that there support Center as well. I sent them a few E-mail to both General Contact and Tech Support. Zero replies back. It's been a month already and sent them four E-mails already. Still is another reason I refuse to use there products, they don't even want to bother talking to you even about Pre-Sales questions.

----
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I'm sure they do...and everyone just happened to make a Ford Taurus lookalike after that car hit the scene. Give me a break.
> 
> You're picking one thing from an industry to argue about when we are talking about designs. Not licensed platforms.
> 
> This world is made up of me too companies.
> 
> Case in point: http://www.factorytwofour.com/daringly-different-ford-taurus/


FORD LOL or as a few people I know call them DROF = Drivers Return On Foot.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

"Have you driven a Ford lately?" Bad example using a car company who's slogan for the past 30 years has been "We don't suck as bad as we used to."


----------



## SavantStrike

Sigh. It always devolves into brand x sucks arguments.

Side note - just picked to a GTX 260 block for the upcoming competition. Time to look into mono blocks for motherboards soon







.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Sigh. It always devolves into brand x sucks arguments.
> 
> Side note - just picked to a GTX 260 block for the upcoming competition. Time to look into mono blocks for motherboards soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Can you really blame them with Thermaltake track record.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Can you really blame them with Thermaltake track record.


I was referring more to the Ford hate.

I can't blame anyone for bashing on Thermaltake as they haven't had an exciting product since the orb coolers (okay fine maybe a few years after that).


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I was referring more to the Ford hate.
> 
> I can't blame anyone for bashing on Thermaltake as they haven't had an exciting product since the orb coolers (okay fine maybe a few years after that).


when their slogan used to be "give some old tin and board and we'll give you a brand new ford" can you really be surprised that people still rag on them ?


----------



## frostbite

Don't forget the can of tin worm they left in the trunk at the factory.

UK fords from the 80/ 90's were the worst for rust


----------



## HardcoreWL

First water cooling loop I've ever made. Next on the list is to get a gpu block.


----------



## Banedox

So how do you guys like my new build?


----------



## frostbite

where'd you get the super clear tube from









good job so far


----------



## Banedox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> where'd you get the super clear tube from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good job so far


You mean the reservoir? Its the Primochill CTR stuff. Comes is so many colors! I was really impressed with it.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Banedox*
> 
> You mean the reservoir? Its the Primochill CTR stuff. Comes is so many colors! I was really impressed with it.


I think he was making a joke due to there being no tubing installed yet


----------



## SteezyTN

So I have two XSPC 270 Photon Res/Pumps. I currently have them in two different loops in the same case. I'm trying to make maintenance more easier and also increase water speeds, and I want to combine them in one loop (I've done this before). Does it matter where I place them in the loop? Or should they be right next to each other in series? I'll be routing the tubing underneath the midplate.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You don't see this *at all* with the Computer watercooling market. I'm certain that exterior designs of parts and fittings could and *should* be left to their own when a new entrant joins the market. Monsoon??? They haven't used another company's designs at all. Yet they still manage to turn out fine products without infringement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


There is no infringement because the patents for compression pipe fittings go all the way back to the 1950's and everything you see today are merely cosmetic alterations to those patented designs. Anyone who thinks these fittings are the pure genius of EK, Bitspower, or anyone else is in the past 20 years is really has no clue what they're saying.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> There is no infringement because the patents for compression pipe fittings go all the way back to the 1950's and everything you see today are merely cosmetic alterations to those patented designs. Anyone who thinks these fittings are the pure genius of EK, Bitspower, or anyone else is in the past 20 years is really has no clue what they're saying.


Most of these patents center around a specific sealing or locking method. The generic compression fitting we use isnt patented AFAIK. No one is saying this style is new,the discussion is based around how similar they look in regards to 'trade dress'.


----------



## dicom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Banedox*
> 
> So how do you guys like my new build?


Nice looking build.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> I think he was making a joke due to there being no tubing installed yet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Banedox*
> 
> You mean the reservoir? Its the Primochill CTR stuff. Comes is so many colors! I was really impressed with it.


Yeah a joke lol


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I have two XSPC 270 Photon Res/Pumps. I currently have them in two different loops in the same case. I'm trying to make maintenance more easier and also increase water speeds, and I want to combine them in one loop (I've done this before). Does it matter where I place them in the loop? Or should they be right next to each other in series? I'll be routing the tubing underneath the midplate.


Here is a build that I posted earlier that has two pumps in it, one before the CPU and one before the GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Not my build ... but a build with a very interesting water route ... res into pump #1 then thru the GPU before going through pump #2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/it-it/landing/single?id=frozen-gray


So ... anywhere ... except right in front of the res.


----------



## H4mm3R2

After experience with my first build...



... I was able to buy the Lian Li case and here's the effect


----------



## stephenn82

Hey everyone! I love the builds! I am looking to leave my AIO's in the dust and move on to getting a custom loop going. its been many years (like since Thermaltake BigWater 745 days) of having a loop, and looking for some thoughts.

I have a Corsair Air 740. Im tryign to figure out the best way to route a loop with a res/pump combo (or where to even put it in my case) and I can get a GPU block for really cheap at micro center right now. I might go forward with that before the open box sells. Or they sell the last two blocks for the GPU at 72 bucks (closeout price I think, as the FTW2 model is now out)

Any one on here already do a custom loop inside of an Air 740 with pump/res visible in window? There is almost 11,000 pages and that is a lot of searching for it. Sorry for being lazy.

I have seen builds on Google searches, but most of the pumps with reservoirs are in the back half of the case. A shame...I would like to show it off. I have Primochill Vue on my mind...a nice red to match the lighting of my system.

Thoughts?

I found something! It seems as though a res/pump NEEDS to be in the back chamber...darn it!

@Simmons572 Any progress on the loop? Did you go forward with it in the Air 740? I am DYING to do my own!


----------



## SpikeV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get the DarkSide D5 pump top? Just found out DazMode doesn't ship intercontinentally, however, the port orientation just makes a lot of sense for my sff build.


If all else fails - try ShopUSA . . . They'll provide a US address for delivery - then ship overseas and handle all customs and tax issues.


----------



## SpikeV

~Ceadder







[/quote]

There is no infringement because the patents for compression pipe fittings go all the way back to the 1950's and everything you see today are merely cosmetic alterations to those patented designs. Anyone who thinks these fittings are the pure genius of EK, Bitspower, or anyone else is in the past 20 years is really has no clue what they're saying.[/quote]

Based on what I've encountered in Denmark - this IS revolutionary . . . Otherwise we would all be using Hemp !!!


----------



## stephenn82

air fittings have been compression style for a while. Paintball guns are one. Sure, its a tiny line (5/32") but same concept. the 450psi (on average) is enough to push the line outwards and back in the fitting, but the little macro fittings grip and hold in place. You press the piece in towards the fitting to remove line. They hold the lines pretty good. Even up to 900-1100psi until the line itself explodes!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> There is no infringement because the patents for compression pipe fittings go all the way back to the 1950's and everything you see today are merely cosmetic alterations to those patented designs. Anyone who thinks these fittings are the pure genius of EK, Bitspower, or anyone else is in the past 20 years is really has no clue what they're saying.
> 
> 
> 
> Most of these patents center around a specific sealing or locking method. The generic compression fitting we use isnt patented AFAIK. No one is saying this style is new,the discussion is based around how similar they look in regards to 'trade dress'.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> air fittings have been compression style for a while. Paintball guns are one. Sure, its a tiny line (5/32") but same concept. the 450psi (on average) is enough to push the line outwards and back in the fitting, but the little macro fittings grip and hold in place. You press the piece in towards the fitting to remove line. They hold the lines pretty good. Even up to 900-1100psi until the line itself explodes!


Exactly as B stated.

I never stated that compression fittings are the base of our ire. I was stating that stealing someone else's look is what has my panties in a twist. It's not that difficult to put a different look on a fitting before putting it on the market. This is what has me(and others) irritated with Borrows and ThermalFake. Sorry if that ruffles feathers but it is what it is. Either change the look or don't put them out. Pretty simple stance as in my mind copying is theft. It's not officially plagiarism since it's not written work, but it's the next worst thing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Exactly as B stated.
> 
> I never stated that compression fittings are the base of our ire. I was stating that stealing someone else's look is what has my panties in a twist. It's not that difficult to put a different look on a fitting before putting it on the market. This is what has me(and others) irritated with Borrows and ThermalFake. Sorry if that ruffles feathers but it is what it is. Either change the look or don't put them out. Pretty simple stance as in my mind copying is theft. It's not officially plagiarism since it's not written work, but it's the next worst thing.


How exactly would you make a minimalistic fitting without imitating them though? A lot of people want basic, non-bulky fittings. I, and many others, won't pay BP's prices because there's nothing about them to justify the cost.

It's easy for sponsored builders to support companies like BP as you guys don't understand how normal builders can save 200-300 in fittings alone by going with Barrow.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ThermalFake. Sorry if that ruffles feathers but it is what it is. Either change the look or don't put them out. Pretty simple stance as in my mind copying is theft. It's not officially plagiarism since it's not written work, but it's the next worst thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thermalfake...they have earned that reputation quite some time ago lol


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Exactly as B stated.
> 
> I never stated that compression fittings are the base of our ire. I was stating that stealing someone else's look is what has my panties in a twist. It's not that difficult to put a different look on a fitting before putting it on the market. This is what has me(and others) irritated with Borrows and ThermalFake. Sorry if that ruffles feathers but it is what it is. Either change the look or don't put them out. Pretty simple stance as in my mind copying is theft. It's not officially plagiarism since it's not written work, but it's the next worst thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


People have been wanting BP fittings without the seahorse branding since the dawn of time. I'm not disagreeing with you, I just feel like they had it coming by not releasing a sleek line themselves. I also think Barrow deserves a bit more slack because most of their products are not blatant copies, albeit some are too close. I won't comment on ThermalTake.

On another note, if there is actual design stealing going on then BP/others can file a lawsuit and solve things the proper way. At the end of the day they're just fittings, and if the quality is good people shouldn't have to compromise on their ideas/aesthetics because of (arguable) ethics.


----------



## Ceadderman

^ We tend to lose sight that EK, BP and Monsoon are still small companies. Borrows is backed by a Government and ThermalFake is Corporate. These two companies would drown EK, BP and Monsoon and FrozenQ in Legal Fees before a suit would get anywhere.









I do agree that BP needs to take the Seahorse off one or two of their Basic color options to see how well they sell but I disagree about their having it coming. I get ya though.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Exactly as B stated.
> 
> I never stated that compression fittings are the base of our ire. I was stating that stealing someone else's look is what has my panties in a twist. It's not that difficult to put a different look on a fitting before putting it on the market. This is what has me(and others) irritated with Borrows and ThermalFake. Sorry if that ruffles feathers but it is what it is. Either change the look or don't put them out. Pretty simple stance as in my mind copying is theft. It's not officially plagiarism since it's not written work, but it's the next worst thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How exactly would you make a minimalistic fitting without imitating them though? A lot of people want basic, non-bulky fittings. I, and many others, won't pay BP's prices because there's nothing about them to justify the cost.
> 
> It's easy for sponsored builders to support companies like BP as you guys don't understand how normal builders can save 200-300 in fittings alone by going with Barrow.
Click to expand...

*Ahem*









I am a budget builder. I work an $11hr job. I do budget builds for people. Yeah I have a Sponsored build(my first) except there is no big watercooling name contributing other than one and that one is being kept under wraps until I've got the parts in hand to show off for you guys.

Yeah the cost of fittings can be excessive. But I prefer not to scrimp. I'm not building a custom Air Cooled loop. It's watercooled. That means liquid. Electricity and liquid do not play well together when the liquid is not contained properly. I buy Monsoon, BP, and EK for the quaility. I've bought XSPC which is okay but rather bulky. I've also gotten Phobya and EnzoTech but those a low quality imho compared to the other fittings.

Savings ain't nothin if you're out $300 for a MB, or more when it's all your components dripping with coolant. I learned from my Grampa long ago to buy quality even though the cheaper option looks just as nice. I will always do that and my son will learn the same lesson from me and hopefully his kids will from him. He's two right now so that won't be for awhile.










*My son learning about Quality at between 3-6mos. He's much bigger on Tech now.









~Ceadder


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Exactly as B stated.
> 
> I never stated that compression fittings are the base of our ire. I was stating that stealing someone else's look is what has my panties in a twist. It's not that difficult to put a different look on a fitting before putting it on the market. This is what has me(and others) irritated with Borrows and ThermalFake. Sorry if that ruffles feathers but it is what it is. Either change the look or don't put them out. Pretty simple stance as in my mind copying is theft. It's not officially plagiarism since it's not written work, but it's the next worst thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How exactly would you make a minimalistic fitting without imitating them though? A lot of people want basic, non-bulky fittings. I, and many others, won't pay BP's prices because there's nothing about them to justify the cost.
> 
> It's easy for sponsored builders to support companies like BP as you guys don't understand how normal builders can save 200-300 in fittings alone by going with Barrow.
Click to expand...

*Ideally Water Cooled fitting sellers (Bulk Buyers) could link with an appropriate (probably China) company and have the British Standard Thread Fittings made on the cheap in bulk for what appears to be $.50 to $.70 each in lots of 500 or greater. The Bulk buyer would then be able to sell them to we the consumer for an acceptable markup covering shipping and other costs and still make a killing. Otherwise we end up paying the astronomically increased prices of those companies selling to the PC market.*


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Hey everyone! I love the builds! I am looking to leave my AIO's in the dust and move on to getting a custom loop going. its been many years (like since Thermaltake BigWater 745 days) of having a loop, and looking for some thoughts.
> 
> I have a Corsair Air 740. Im tryign to figure out the best way to route a loop with a res/pump combo (or where to even put it in my case) and I can get a GPU block for really cheap at micro center right now. I might go forward with that before the open box sells. Or they sell the last two blocks for the GPU at 72 bucks (closeout price I think, as the FTW2 model is now out)
> 
> Any one on here already do a custom loop inside of an Air 740 with pump/res visible in window? There is almost 11,000 pages and that is a lot of searching for it. Sorry for being lazy.
> 
> I have seen builds on Google searches, but most of the pumps with reservoirs are in the back half of the case. A shame...I would like to show it off. I have Primochill Vue on my mind...a nice red to match the lighting of my system.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> I found something! It seems as though a res/pump NEEDS to be in the back chamber...darn it!
> 
> @Simmons572 Any progress on the loop? Did you go forward with it in the Air 740? I am DYING to do my own!


I did actually finish the loop a while ago, sorry for the late delay













More photos here.

I hid the res in the rear of the case, which you aren't looking to do. I would recommend checking out the Air 540 owners club, which I have a link to in my Sig. There are a few builds in there with res's in the front, in various types of configurations, which could be used for inspiration.


----------



## potato42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> I did actually finish the loop a while ago, sorry for the late delay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking build! Do you think you might watercool the card too down the line?


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are those EK PE Rads?









~Ceadder


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are those EK PE Rads?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes sir


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are those EK PE Rads?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes sir
Click to expand...

I take it that you pulled the covers, prepped and painted them that snazzy Grey color?









They look awesome under those Corsair fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I take it that you pulled the covers, prepped and painted them that snazzy Grey color?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They look awesome under those Corsair fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, sanded, primed, painted and cleared. Used automotive spray paints, then wet sanded and buffed them.

Thanks! Those are actually Thermaltake fans


----------



## KCDC

Have a question for yall.

I'm planning to get mayhem's borosilicate glass tubing 13mm OD.

I want to make sure I get the right fittings for this build. Both regular and 90 degree.. I've heard reports that not all fittings fit the same with rigid tubing, which worries me. If anyone can confirm what brands works best with this glass tubing, I would be most thankful.

Also posting in Mayhems thread.


----------



## Bogga

Recently completed my project... what do you guys think?


----------



## Streetdragon

I like to colour and the top-res.

Do you know i i can buy somewhere the top of the res? my cover is cracked....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Have a question for yall.
> 
> I'm planning to get mayhem's borosilicate glass tubing 13mm OD.
> 
> I want to make sure I get the right fittings for this build. Both regular and 90 degree.. I've heard reports that not all fittings fit the same with rigid tubing, which worries me. If anyone can confirm what brands works best with this glass tubing, I would be most thankful.
> 
> Also posting in Mayhems thread.


Does Mayhem produce fittings? than buy the fittings from Mayhem.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Does Mayhem produce fittings? than buy the fittings from Mayhem.


Nope, just coolant and tubing.


----------



## catbuster

BP are the ones who doing theft with those ridicilous fittings prices, check eu prices for them


----------



## supanat sr

*CALM DOWN* ~~~~~























Blue color will help for UUU eiei


----------



## catbuster

Did u use barrow fittings? ppl gonna flame you







looks great tho, blue and silver scheme looks good as ever.


----------



## Dortheleus

I like the colour sceam you've chosen.


----------



## supanat sr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Did u use barrow fittings? ppl gonna flame you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great tho, blue and silver scheme looks good as ever.


I used barrow, bitspower, EK and touchaqua. They are stay together as my rig









edit : Ouchhhh!! I forgot aquacomputer and feser stop fitting lolol


----------



## Banedox

Anything actually wrong with Barrow Fittings?


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Banedox*
> 
> Anything actually wrong with Barrow Fittings?


Nothing, to be honest.

Completely unrelated:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Have a question for yall.
> 
> I'm planning to get mayhem's borosilicate glass tubing 13mm OD.
> 
> I want to make sure I get the right fittings for this build. Both regular and 90 degree.. I've heard reports that not all fittings fit the same with rigid tubing, which worries me. If anyone can confirm what brands works best with this glass tubing, I would be most thankful.
> 
> Also posting in Mayhems thread.


Bitspower, Barrow works for sure(Fully tested 16 OD glass with those fittings). You just have to stay away from imperial sized fittings like Primochill & MonSoon. AlphaCool & EK fittings also works with Mayhems glass.


----------



## Banedox

Wait whats wrong with Primochill? I have their Compression Hard Fittings Right now xD


----------



## IT Diva

Speaking of getting back to posting water cooling rigs . . . . .

Finally, . . . .

After two category 5 hurricanes and almost 3 months without regular utility power or internet,

I finally got my View 27 build tubed up, leak tested, and bled out.

Using Mayhems X-1 clear for now, but may give the new Primochill Vue coolant a try when the silver becomes available and I've heard some reviews and feedback.

Sunglasses recommended . . .

Darlene


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Banedox*
> 
> Wait whats wrong with Primochill? I have their Compression Hard Fittings Right now xD


They didn't say there was anything wrong with them. They said to avoid mixing Imperical sized fittings with metric tubing, and vice-versa.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Speaking of getting back to posting water cooling rigs . . . . .
> 
> Sunglasses recommended . . .
> 
> Darlene


Sexy build for sure. How do you like that motherboard? Anything glaring about it that would make you not recommend it? I wanted to use it in a SMA8-A build.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Speaking of getting back to posting water cooling rigs . . . . .
> 
> Finally, . . . .
> 
> After two category 5 hurricanes and almost 3 months without regular utility power or internet,
> 
> I finally got my View 27 build tubed up, leak tested, and bled out.
> 
> Using Mayhems X-1 clear for now, but may give the new Primochill Vue coolant a try when the silver becomes available and I've heard some reviews and feedback.
> 
> Sunglasses recommended . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


great job esp considering everything. i want to get description how gorgeous it looks w/wet weather puns but my wit is failing me ATM.

but a 5/



































award.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Speaking of getting back to posting water cooling rigs . . . . .
> 
> Finally, . . . .
> 
> After two category 5 hurricanes and almost 3 months without regular utility power or internet


Sparkle for sure! Nice job.

But what is the tap doing? Is your flow to high and you want to be able to turn it down?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Speaking of getting back to posting water cooling rigs . . . . .
> 
> Sunglasses recommended . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Sexy build for sure. How do you like that motherboard? Anything glaring about it that would make you not recommend it? I wanted to use it in a SMA8-A build.
Click to expand...

The mobo is OK so far, . .

I used it because it's white, and fits with the overall theme.

It's certainly nothing special, just real basic stuff.. . . fairly minimum number of power phases, but the EK monoblock fits it so it looks nice.

I'm using some basic 2400 memory, again because it's white and was less than $150 for 4 X 4GB when I bought it a few months back.

I wouldn't suggest it for a performance build, but for a basic rig, it's fine.

For builds that I do in Caselabs cases, and I have at least a half dozen or so, I wouldn't use anything but higher components.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Speaking of getting back to posting water cooling rigs . . . . .
> 
> Finally, . . . .
> 
> After two category 5 hurricanes and almost 3 months without regular utility power or internet
> 
> 
> 
> Sparkle for sure! Nice job.
> 
> But what is the tap doing? Is your flow to high and you want to be able to turn it down?
Click to expand...

The valve between the rad and the res is part of the drain system:

The rad has a drain valve at the bottom, (alphacool rad) but that would only drain the coolant in the rad itself.

By closing the top valve and putting a little air pressure at the fill point on the top of the res, it forces the coolant in the res, monoblock, and rear rad into the front rad to drain.

The pump is a 35X, so it can be controlled via PWM from the Aquaero 6LT to set the flow rate.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Speaking of getting back to posting water cooling rigs . . . . .
> 
> Finally, . . . .
> 
> After two category 5 hurricanes and almost 3 months without regular utility power or internet,
> 
> I finally got my View 27 build tubed up, leak tested, and bled out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Using Mayhems X-1 clear for now, but may give the new Primochill Vue coolant a try when the silver becomes available and I've heard some reviews and feedback.
> 
> Sunglasses recommended . . .
> 
> Darlene


Well I was beginning to notice the absence of your posts here, good to hear things are getting back on track in the islands.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ...but may give the new Primochill Vue coolant a try when the silver becomes available and I've heard some reviews and feedback.


Feel free to peruse our PrimoChill VUE Coolant Users Club thread.


----------



## PCSarge

heres my latest creation, in a corsair air 240 no less. never tell me something cant be done in a case.


----------



## stephenn82

That is sweet! Just hope the res never leaks...poof!

Anyone have pics of a 140 res on top of D5 pump in front chamber of an Air 740?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> That is sweet! Just hope the res never leaks...poof!
> 
> Anyone have pics of a 140 res on top of D5 pump in front chamber of an Air 740?


unless that res ever cracks, which i doubt. it wont leak. it has fresh rings on both ends and on all the attached fittings


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Speaking of getting back to posting water cooling rigs . . . . .
> 
> Finally, . . . .
> 
> After two category 5 hurricanes and almost 3 months without regular utility power or internet,
> 
> I finally got my View 27 build tubed up, leak tested, and bled out.
> 
> Using Mayhems X-1 clear for now, but may give the new Primochill Vue coolant a try when the silver becomes available and I've heard some reviews and feedback.
> 
> Sunglasses recommended . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I got to miss out on the hurricane mess (was deployed).

As always, beautiful build.







Dig the clear tubbing runs.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I got to miss out on the hurricane mess (was deployed).


Welcome back! My buddy is in Mayport and rode it out.

You came back in time for THIS storm that hit the thread...


----------



## ENTERPRISE

Thread cleaned but will remain closed so people can chill out. Please lets not argue and get offensive toward each other over something rather trivial. We have opinions, and we are welcome to them but not when you use them to fuel an argument that has no basis other than to slag each other off.

Thanks,

E


----------



## ENTERPRISE

Unlocked. Lets continue the good coversation


----------



## iamjanco

Thankyou, jefe


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> heres my latest creation, in a corsair air 240 no less. never tell me something cant be done in a case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


+100 For the roadkill sticker







.
Soft tubing with sort traces looks great !


----------



## chibi

It's a miracle! My Heatkiller blocks have finally left customs after a week delay... now another 6 days for shipping to the west coast and I can finally get some hydro action


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ENTERPRISE*
> 
> Unlocked. Lets continue the good coversation


Thanks









Hoping to finally take some time and work on Project Gray Scale some this week/weekend. Already mounted the res and working on how the pumps will be mounted in the base w/ pass-thru's for the res and to the GPU block.

Also planning on pulling the M8 out of storage and stripping the paint off of it and re-working the paint again (did a half ace job last time). But needd the SMA8 Revision to release so I can order the new mobo tray and some risers


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> heres my latest creation, in a corsair air 240 no less. never tell me something cant be done in a case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like you may have a kink on the down turn here... or it could be the shadows messing with me







. Nice and clean build though


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> +100 For the roadkill sticker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Soft tubing with sort traces looks great !


yeah ive been watching roadkill since it started. i actually subscribed to MTOD for it and roadkill garage. and now also junkyard gold.

soft tubing isnt hard to make look good. if you know how to hide the 2 parts of a loop people hate staring at: the res and pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Looks like you may have a kink on the down turn here... or it could be the shadows messing with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Nice and clean build though


that downturn is only a res drain line. im not concerned if its kinked as its not mounted to the case on the plugged end,it will unkink when i need to drain the res.


----------



## stephenn82

I got them tonight! Only one of each though. Ek GTX 1080 FTW block and backplate. 63 for block and 5 bucks for plate. Now if Micro Center can hold stock for the other 3 blocks i can grab them at 72 later.

Now. What are some of the best radiators for price? Looking for 280 and a 360.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Looks like you may have a kink on the down turn here... or it could be the shadows messing with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Nice and clean build though


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> I got them tonight! Only one of each though. Ek GTX 1080 FTW block and backplate. 63 for block and 5 bucks for plate. Now if Micro Center can hold stock for the other 3 blocks i can grab them at 72 later.
> 
> Now. What are some of the best radiators for price? Looking for 280 and a 360.


depends if you want fan speed or high airflow. a 360 can provide both with some noctua nf-p12's on it. a 280 will most likely provide it regardless of fan choice, due to needing lower rpms to move the same air.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> depends if you want fan speed or high airflow. a 360 can provide both with some noctua nf-p12's on it. a 280 will most likely provide it regardless of fan choice, due to needing lower rpms to move the same air.


A 360 fits in the front of my case and a 280 can go in top and bottom. Or one on front. I think one of each will be fine.

Nemesis gtx lool awesome but so pricey. I know ek se are cheaper but dont have the mega cooling potential. I have ML 140 for the 280 rad. I cant find ml120 without rgb at local stores now. The search continues!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> A 360 fits in the front of my case and a 280 can go in top and bottom. Or one on front. I think one of each will be fine.
> 
> Nemesis gtx lool awesome but so pricey. I know ek se are cheaper but dont have the mega cooling potential. I have ML 140 for the 280 rad. I cant find ml120 without rgb at local stores now. The search continues!


you dont need more than a 360 for cpu+gpu. i run an RX 480 with an OC and a 5GHZ 7600k on a 240 rad. max ive seen cpu temp wise since delid is 52C, max on gpu was 57C after 10 hours of destiny with my office door closed


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> you dont need more than a 360 for cpu+gpu. i run an RX 480 with an OC and a 5GHZ 7600k on a 240 rad. max ive seen cpu temp wise since delid is 52C, max on gpu was 57C after 10 hours of destiny with my office door closed


nvm


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> you dont need more than a 360 for cpu+gpu. i run an RX 480 with an OC and a 5GHZ 7600k on a 240 rad. max ive seen cpu temp wise since delid is 52C, max on gpu was 57C after 10 hours of destiny with my office door closed


even with SLI?

On a side note...the wife got me this for my cake day


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> even with SLI?
> 
> On a side note...the wife got me this for my cake day


yes even for SLI. provided you have the airflow through that rad at a decent rate. you should hold mid 60s on everything provided your house isnt 40C inside


----------



## supanat sr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> you dont need more than a 360 for cpu+gpu. i run an RX 480 with an OC and a 5GHZ 7600k on a 240 rad. max ive seen cpu temp wise since delid is 52C, max on gpu was 57C after 10 hours of destiny with my office door closed


If you need 480 you cpu and gpu will under than 40C, 50C for my opinion it high temp and hot coolant can do damage for pump motor

240 rad or higher per 1 part (cpu or gpu) better choice, if control delta T for cpu (or gpu) with coolant better than 10C and 20C with room temp then be perfect cooling performance


----------



## Grecko

Project Red Core
I just won my first modders competition !








http://www.dazmode.com/_forum/showthread.php?2670-Red-Core-Project


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supanat sr*
> 
> If you need 480 you cpu and gpu will under than 40C, 50C for my opinion it high temp and hot coolant can do damage for pump motor
> 
> 240 rad or higher per 1 part (cpu or gpu) better choice, if control delta T for cpu (or gpu) with coolant better than 10C and 20C with room temp then be perfect cooling performance


The rule of thumb is 120 for each block then 120 on top of the total.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The rule of thumb is 120 for each block then 120 on top of the total.


Pluss 120mm per component if you're planning to overclock.

My MO-RA works really good for a 1080Ti and a I7 8700K. :-D


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> you dont need more than a 360 for cpu+gpu. i run an RX 480 with an OC and a 5GHZ 7600k on a 240 rad. max ive seen cpu temp wise since delid is 52C, max on gpu was 57C after 10 hours of destiny with my office door closed


Rep'd for finally saying what I've been yelling for ever!

Sure more rad space is better, slower speed fans, etc. But what you can get away with or 'need' that's entirely different.

I ran an oc'd 4690k and 980ti on a single 240 for a long time. Temps were well within reason. Only reason I use a 240 and 360 now is simply aesthetics. It's not 'needed'


----------



## supanat sr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The rule of thumb is 120 for each block then 120 on top of the total.


Are u joke? lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supanat sr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The rule of thumb is 120 for each block then 120 on top of the total.
> 
> 
> 
> Are u joke? lol
Click to expand...

No he's not . . . .

Most of us that have been doing liquid cooling builds for the last two to three decades remember it well.

It used to be pretty accurate for the thermal efficiency of the hardware of the time.

As of the last few generations of CPU's / GPU's, it's actually overkill, given the progress made in efficiencies.

Keep in mind that what is "needed" and what may be desired are usually vastly different.


----------



## supanat sr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No he's not . . . .
> 
> Most of us that have been doing liquid cooling builds for the last two to three decades remember it well.
> 
> It used to be pretty accurate for the thermal efficiency of the hardware of the time.
> 
> As of the last few generations of CPU's / GPU's, it's actually overkill, given the progress made in efficiencies.
> 
> Keep in mind that what is "needed" and what may be desired are usually vastly different.


Why u think *"rule"* of pc watercooling must need 120 rad per waterblock? I know minimum need 120 rad per waterblock if room temp it not too hot (under 25C)
but minimum didn't mean rule. right?


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> yes even for SLI. provided you have the airflow through that rad at a decent rate. you should hold mid 60s on everything provided your house isnt 40C inside


right now with two AIOs (h115i on CPU and FTW Hybrid) I dont hit 60 on eithjer...gotta do better than that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supanat sr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No he's not . . . .
> 
> Most of us that have been doing liquid cooling builds for the last two to three decades remember it well.
> 
> It used to be pretty accurate for the thermal efficiency of the hardware of the time.
> 
> As of the last few generations of CPU's / GPU's, it's actually overkill, given the progress made in efficiencies.
> 
> Keep in mind that what is "needed" and what may be desired are usually vastly different.
> 
> 
> 
> Why u think *"rule"* of pc watercooling must need 120 rad per waterblock? I know minimum need 120 rad per waterblock if room temp it not too hot (under 25C)
> but minimum didn't mean rule. right?
Click to expand...

The whole concept of a "rule of thumb" is to establish a working baseline that works adequately in the very vast majority of situations.

You can always find some exceptions to any norm, (unusually high ambient temps, thin rads, or extremely poor airflow cases for example) but that's what they are, exceptions.

Having a few exceptions doesn't make a rule of thumb invalid.

Capable builders understood the exceptions, and compensated accordingly.

Even several hardware generations past, in the vast majority of builds with a top end CPU and GPU, you could expect perfectly reasonable temps, (based on manufacturer's recommendations) with a 360, or SLI/CF with a 480, even with some OC.

As watercooling has progressed and better gear has come to market, I think that users are expecting lower temps than they did in the past, because they are now easier to obtain, but those lower temps are certainly not the be-all / end-all.


----------



## lexer

I'm a running a single 360 rad but crossflow that is worse than a normal one. With a ambient temp of 30-32ºc my max temps are 70ºc on the CPU and 48ºC on the GPU. Not the best ones but considering that my bedroom is a sauna i'm satisfied


----------



## stephenn82

ambient here in my basement is about 20c. Peak of maybe 24c in summer? My CPU idles at 19c and peaks 52c. GPU idles 24c and peaks 45c with long gaming sessions. I want GPU colder than that. perhaps below 40c.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> ambient here in my basement is about 20c. Peak of maybe 24c in summer? My CPU idles at 19c and peaks 52c. GPU idles 24c and peaks 45c with long gaming sessions. I want GPU colder than that. perhaps below 40c.


Wouldn't be of any clock benefit though lol.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Wouldn't be of any clock benefit though lol.


i am happy with my 4.6ghz on my 6700k and my 2139mhz on my GTX 1080. I am already squeezing them for what they are worth. Keeping the 1080 cooler is priority over clocking anyways. Pascal loves to keep temps low. Once temps go up, volts go up. and when volts go up (even not hitting the limit) clocks can go down.

I know throwing more radiators can eventually have a negative effect. I dont want to run say, 8 480 rads..hahaha

I just want to run one 360 in front and one 280 on top. Tempted to put a 280 on bottom as well...since I have to mount pump and res in back chamber of my case. Looking in there, the 1080 is rather long and wont allow me to put pump/res in front half..unless I lay them down. Then I have to move the ML140's off of the bottom


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> i am happy with my 4.6ghz on my 6700k and my 2139mhz on my GTX 1080. I am already squeezing them for what they are worth. Keeping the 1080 cooler is priority over clocking anyways. Pascal loves to keep temps low. Once temps go up, volts go up. and when volts go up (even not hitting the limit) clocks can go down.
> 
> I know throwing more radiators can eventually have a negative effect. I dont want to run say, 8 480 rads..hahaha
> 
> I just want to run one 360 in front and one 280 on top. Tempted to put a 280 on bottom as well...since I have to mount pump and res in back chamber of my case. Looking in there, the 1080 is rather long and wont allow me to put pump/res in front half..unless I lay them down. Then I have to move the ML140's off of the bottom


As some one who has a 480 and a 360 to 2 pascal cards. Under 50c you are seeing 0 benefit on plain water.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> ambient here in my basement is about 20c. Peak of maybe 24c in summer? My CPU idles at 19c and peaks 52c. GPU idles 24c and peaks 45c with long gaming sessions. I want GPU colder than that. perhaps below 40c.
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't be of any clock benefit though lol.
Click to expand...

the highest stable OC i got on my 980ti (1518) was when the temps stayed below ~36c i can barely maintain 1480 at 40c+..
pascal is even more temp sensitive.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> the highest stable OC i got on my 980ti (1518) was when the temps stayed below ~36c i can barely maintain 1480 at 40c+..


Under 36c on load isn't easy to maintain on a 980ti. Meanwhile the additional maybe 50hz you'd get over mid 2000s on a 1080 won't make much of a fps difference outside of 1? 2? maybe even.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Under 36c on load isn't easy to maintain on a 980ti. Meanwhile the additional maybe 50hz you'd get over mid 2000s on a 1080 won't make much of a fps difference outside of 1? 2? maybe even.


i am not trying to debate, actually i made a mistake and thought there was a 980ti involved . . . my bad. i agree maintaining the lower temp(s) is hampered w/ambient temps (was at work all day w/furnace off during winter in my case).

it got me seriously thinking of a chiller . .which goes to your point of hard to maintain (w/just rads). but i will point to some wanting to keep things pushed to the edge - albeit likely more for benching - its up to them on if its worth it to add more rads.

sorry i just read your post and it didn't seem quite correct but we are all in this together.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Pluss 120mm per component if you're planning to overclock.
> 
> My MO-RA works really good for a 1080Ti and a I7 8700K. :-D


Not really, its very much possible to do some very decent overclocks of for example CPU&GPU on a 360mm radiator, and it'll still be relatively quiet if you have decent fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supanat sr*
> 
> Why u think *"rule"* of pc watercooling must need 120 rad per waterblock? I know minimum need 120 rad per waterblock if room temp it not too hot (under 25C)
> but minimum didn't mean rule. right?


You might want to brush up on your English before you start acting like a know it all, as a rule of thumb isn't the same thing as a rule. Now you just look stupid...


----------



## chibi

@B NEGATIVE - can you work your magic and come up with an EKWB Maximus X Apex Monoblock?


----------



## stephenn82

so what you are saying is, I only need one 360 rad...like a black ice GTR in front of my case, to cool a pair of GTX 1080's and a 6700k? I can plop three ML140's ( i have two already) and call it a day? Or maybe one of the PE's with the cross radiator fins, that actually flow a lot of air through even with a typical case fan with less than 1.5SP? I think the ML140's are a pretty good fit, RPM range as well.

EK's config says I will net 540w heat load, and with a single 360 (SE model, it wont let me manually select another in the configurator for some reason) I will only get 490w cooling from a slimline. I would get at least a PE or HardwareLabs rad.

Now, the thoughts continue...

That would allow the budget to get a better single radator, and allow me to figure out an easier routing scheme, with less fittings.

A good 360 with ports on top, I can run pump/res mounted to the radiator and feed the GPU first, push through CPU, then in rad, out of rad to feed the res just in front. simple plan. It would be super aweomse to have a crossflow 280 up top though, but I dont know if 300 more watts of cooling potential is needed. Not yet anyways with a single card. I plan on scooping up a FTW from anyone upgrading to Volta here when they come out. If any of you fine people of OCN plan on doing that, keep me in mind for selling a 1080 FTW









Even one single 280 GTX from hardware labs has 1200w cooling potential...enough for what I will run. I can mount my pump/res in front in the space between 140mm fans use less amount of tubing and NOT hide the pretty stuff in back chamber. I think this will be it...time to use some MS Paint. Since photoshop costs a bunch. I could use the free stuff online. Here goes! I will post my plans later.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE - can you work your magic and come up with an EKWB Maximus X Apex Monoblock?


I thought the Maximus IX monoblocks were compatible with Maximus X boards.


----------



## stephenn82

What is the difference between

This:
http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/gtx/360gtx/

and this:
http://hardwarelabs.com/blackice/gtx/gtx-360/

4 fins per inch?


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I thought the Maximus IX monoblocks were compatible with Maximus X boards.


Not perfectly, it seems a mounting hole is not aligned correctly and different height for the vrm/conductors which needed thicker thermal pads.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1640380/ek-mono-block-for-maximus-x-apex/0_30#post_26498542


----------



## DarthBaggins

You'll need 120 to 140mm adapters also if you run them on a 360rad, could also go with a 420mm rad

I'm just running a 360mm XSPC EX360 (not the greatest but does the job) in JAC-T.T., it's cooling my 5930k & 1080 (both under good OC's - 4.1Ghz 1.256vCore & 2113/4653) perfectly fine.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> so what you are saying is, I only need one 360 rad...like a black ice GTR in front of my case, to cool a pair of GTX 1080's and a 6700k? I can plop three ML140's ( i have two already) and call it a day? Or maybe one of the PE's with the cross radiator fins, that actually flow a lot of air through even with a typical case fan with less than 1.5SP? I think the ML140's are a pretty good fit, RPM range as well.
> 
> EK's config says I will net 540w heat load, and with a single 360 (SE model, it wont let me manually select another in the configurator for some reason) I will only get 490w cooling from a slimline. I would get at least a PE or HardwareLabs rad.
> 
> Now, the thoughts continue...
> 
> That would allow the budget to get a better single radator, and allow me to figure out an easier routing scheme, with less fittings.
> 
> A good 360 with ports on top, I can run pump/res mounted to the radiator and feed the GPU first, push through CPU, then in rad, out of rad to feed the res just in front. simple plan. It would be super aweomse to have a crossflow 280 up top though, but I dont know if 300 more watts of cooling potential is needed. Not yet anyways with a single card. I plan on scooping up a FTW from anyone upgrading to Volta here when they come out. If any of you fine people of OCN plan on doing that, keep me in mind for selling a 1080 FTW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even one single 280 GTX from hardware labs has 1200w cooling potential...enough for what I will run. I can mount my pump/res in front in the space between 140mm fans use less amount of tubing and NOT hide the pretty stuff in back chamber. I think this will be it...time to use some MS Paint. Since photoshop costs a bunch. I could use the free stuff online. Here goes! I will post my plans later.


A single 360 should do just fine. A 280 is pretty close to a 360 in theory, but a 360/420 would be ideal.

That being said, if you're okay with the added complexity and fittings, two cheaper rads are better than one "premium" rad. Most of the magic comes from sheer surface area and CFM, with the remainder from superior radiator design. But the fact will always remain that more rad surface = slower fans.

You also have to ask yourself how you're going to use the machine. If you do any folding or mining of the sort, over spec the rads for the benefit of your hearing.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> A single 360 should do just fine. A 280 is pretty close to a 360 in theory, but a 360/420 would be ideal.
> 
> That being said, if you're okay with the added complexity and fittings, two cheaper rads are better than one "premium" rad. Most of the magic comes from sheer surface area and CFM, with the remainder from superior radiator design. But the fact will always remain that more rad surface = slower fans.
> 
> You also have to ask yourself how you're going to use the machine. If you do any folding or mining of the sort, over spec the rads for the benefit of your hearing.


I fold occasionally and mostly game when I am home. I need to start playing with virtual machines to work on certs...but that sort of falls under general computing.

So, it looks like my 280 on top and a decent 360 looks to be the plan..as originally stated.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> I can get that here in the states...its one of my favorites! Makes me jealous...its from like right down the street from you haha. I have ancestors from there...I need to make a trip one day.


I really love a lot of the beers from "Het Anker", currently have half a crate of Gouden Carolus Tripel and the other half filled with Classic. But my favorite has to be the Gouden Carolus Cuvée Van De Keizer(blauw), I don't know if that one is easy to get in the US, but if you ever see it, give it a shot, its pretty sensational.

and if you ever come to Belgium, you can always visit the brewery too.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Little market near Neuschwanstein castle. I can find most Belgian and German beers in the US, but they taste like they have been in a warehouse for 6 months. However, it's nearly impossible to find a good craft IPA in Europe.


Hehe, every town here in Belgium pretty much has a "drinks center" with shelves filled like that, only with Belgian beers







i'd recon Germany probably isn't any different in that regard.

Not sure what would cause the sitting in the warehouse taste though, beer usually is pretty stable in the bottle, some even get better the longer you let them sit.

Haven't really come across many craft IPA , but then again, i never really looked for any either, still making my way trough all the Belgian beers


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> the highest stable OC i got on my 980ti (1518) was when the temps stayed below ~36c i can barely maintain 1480 at 40c+..
> pascal is even more temp sensitive.


? Interesting, I had two ref 980Tis under water that easily held 1530-1540MHz while folding 24/7 with temps at 50-60C. Seems you got a finky 980Ti there.
Though, I agree these Pascals are touchy. I have three of them and I can't wait to get two of them under water. The FTW3 1080Ti looks to have potential since it don't down clock overly much with fans at 75% with a clock over 2000MHz with temps in the 60-65C range on the majority of BOINC and [email protected] units. So, hopefully with lower temps I can get it nice and stable with minimal throttling if possible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just walk away. Lets not get it locked again yea?
> 
> TCO


Seriously, is the month of being A holes or something?
I been seeing arguing across threads and other tech forums this month a whole bunch.


----------



## stephenn82

If I end up in Belgium...I will definitely hit up some breweries!


----------



## Bogga

And here I am planning to go uber-ultra-all-in. Just want to push it and see how low you could go. 120+120+120+a couple more 120's...

I'll just go sit over there and let you guys continue.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> And here I am planning to go uber-ultra-all-in. Just want to push it and see how low you could go. 120+120+120+a couple more 120's...
> 
> I'll just go sit over there and let you guys continue.


You end up with a chassis too heavy and wide to comfortably move through a doorway when full.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> You end up with a chassis too heavy and wide to comfortably move through a doorway when full.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sounds like me on pizza and beer night.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> You end up with a chassis too heavy and wide to comfortably move through a doorway when full.


1080 Ti in 4 way? Does it minecraft at 16k? Is this a Linus build? lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE - can you work your magic and come up with an EKWB Maximus X Apex Monoblock?


Im working on different projects right now. Trust me when I say that there is going to be a paradigm shift in performance

Sadly,thats all I can say but Im excited about it.

EDIT:

Ooooh,we playing big rigs?










And those LD cases used to shift shape with the doors off if you tried to carry it......


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> You end up with a chassis too heavy and wide to comfortably move through a doorway when full.


It's gonna weigh a ton. My current calculations say 350mm deep, 1050mm high and 1300mm wide in a welded steel frame. Planning to build a wooden case for it for when I'm gonna move it







Depending on various stuff I might make it a bit less high. I've got a car and I'll probably have to get someone to help me move it the few times I'm going to do that...

A tingle could also come in handy


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> ? Interesting, I had two ref 980Tis under water that easily held 1530-1540MHz while folding 24/7 with temps at 50-60C. Seems you got a finky 980Ti there.
> Though, I agree these Pascals are touchy. I have three of them and I can't wait to get two of them under water. The FTW3 1080Ti looks to have potential since it don't down clock overly much with fans at 75% with a clock over 2000MHz with temps in the 60-65C range on the majority of BOINC and [email protected] units. So, hopefully with lower temps I can get it nice and stable with minimal throttling if possible.
> Seriously, is the month of being A holes or something?
> I been seeing arguing across threads and other tech forums this month a whole bunch.


Dont know bro...maybe they are on edge from spending too much money?


----------



## DarthBaggins

What’s the fun in having money if you don’t spend it? Plan on getting my block this weekend - just going to go over to MicroCenter (Marietta, GA) and get a Nickel/Plexi block w/ black backplate. Might snag some others for my 1080 SC since they are clearancing them.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What's the fun in having money if you don't spend it? Plan on getting my block this weekend - just going to go over to MicroCenter (Marietta, GA) and get a Nickel/Plexi block w/ black backplate. Might snag some others for my 1080 SC since they are clearancing them.


I know right? thats what I tell my wife....I cant just work to earn a number and not have any fun...lol

Before you do that, watch this from Jay...19 bucks for a clear/black block...it does just as good, if not slightly better, than an Evo block. Just mods/sharpie required

https://youtu.be/qo9m0KJrIy4


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> And here I am planning to go uber-ultra-all-in. Just want to push it and see how low you could go. 120+120+120+a couple more 120's...
> 
> I'll just go sit over there and let you guys continue.


I be trying to see how well a MO-RA on outside with 360 rads in the case work out for me since I am a nutty that likes to 24/7 [email protected] and BOINC with browsing all at the same time.








Just got this a few days back:



I know, I have to many cases that I hoard.







I like having options on hand.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Dont know bro...maybe they are on edge from spending too much money?


Good thing I planned right. Deployed before holidays, get my tax free back pay in December.







My parents are getting so many goodies this year. Plan to do the same next year. 4 months of no off time can be rough, but heck I get IT experience and paid.

Though....some of the problems and questions I got while doing help desk. ....yeah, I had some hard times keeping a straight face.








I think the the one peep complaining about numbers on the end of their email name tops my list. (I am not kidding....)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What's the fun in having money if you don't spend it? Plan on getting my block this weekend - just going to go over to MicroCenter (Marietta, GA) and get a Nickel/Plexi block w/ black backplate. Might snag some others for my 1080 SC since they are clearancing them.


Ooo, are there any 1080Ti blocks on clearance? Specifically for FTW3 and SC.

I do go by the thing of taking some of my cash to have goodies or a good time. Of course, I do keep some for retirement and my saving buffer.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

I just have QDC connected to my CPU and GPU block so I can move my MO-RA3 independently.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Though....some of the problems and questions I got while doing help desk. ....yeah, I had some hard times keeping a straight face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the the one peep complaining about numbers on the end of their email name tops my list. (I am not kidding....)
> Ooo, are there any 1080Ti blocks on clearance? Specifically for FTW3 and SC.
> 
> I do go by the thing of taking some of my cash to have goodies or a good time. Of course, I do keep some for retirement and my saving buffer.


I am on watch every few days in DC and do the same thing...entitled lawyers are seeking instant repairs and demand things, think they own the world. First question we ask, "have you rebooted it?" After a few experlatives and the "yes I rebooted it like 4 times" song and dance, we throw a distractor out there, talk about something for a bit, talk them through what may be an issue, and say, lets try rebooting this usually after a gpupdate. low and behold...the reboot fixed it.

I know what kind of calls you get man!









I look quite a bit for open box items at my local MC as well. Right now, there is a FTW3 backplate for 29 bucks. not 4.99 like I got my 1080 FTW plate though. Or my block. I got one for 63 bucks. New were dropped to 72 and change. I can let you know if I see anything here

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486593/EK-FC1080_GTX_Ti_Backplate_-_Black?ob=1

Retirement is soon...same for me. only 4 more years. I can make it lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

You should see the inventory at the ones here in GA, lol. Kinda how I got my 1080Ti for $600 w/ 3yr replacement plan







now just need to snag a block. No the Ti blocks aren't on clearance yet, went a couple days ago to check but the 1080 blocks are on a decent discount at least and I have a 1080 SC in one rig and would like a backup block for when I do maintenance


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> I know right? thats what I tell my wife....I cant just work to earn a number and not have any fun...lol
> 
> Before you do that, watch this from Jay...19 bucks for a clear/black block...it does just as good, if not slightly better, than an Evo block. Just mods/sharpie required
> 
> https://youtu.be/qo9m0KJrIy4


I watched the video. As good a deal as that block is it doesn't perform as good or slightly better than an evo. It's a few degrees warmer than the evo.

Price/performance its fantastic but doesn't cool better than an evo.


----------



## stephenn82

His Evo temps for max

80, 79, 81, 81, 77, 79

The 20 dollar contender

82, 81, 83, 82, 79, 79

Ok, so they are slightly higher...like within Delta T difference. You got me.

So, for the cost, 20 bucks vice 60+ dollars...that is what I was trying to convey. I just dont word well.

I went for the 20 dollar jobby. It will be here Monday. :/


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah saw that, the microchannels looked similar to a AC block I have, but I know there's a good difference between the two (mainly in quality of parts)


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> I am on watch every few days in DC and do the same thing...entitled lawyers are seeking instant repairs and demand things, think they own the world. First question we ask, "have you rebooted it?" After a few experlatives and the "yes I rebooted it like 4 times" song and dance, we throw a distractor out there, talk about something for a bit, talk them through what may be an issue, and say, lets try rebooting this usually after a gpupdate. low and behold...the reboot fixed it.
> 
> I know what kind of calls you get man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I look quite a bit for open box items at my local MC as well. Right now, there is a FTW3 backplate for 29 bucks. not 4.99 like I got my 1080 FTW plate though. Or my block. I got one for 63 bucks. New were dropped to 72 and change. I can let you know if I see anything here
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/486593/EK-FC1080_GTX_Ti_Backplate_-_Black?ob=1
> 
> Retirement is soon...same for me. only 4 more years. I can make it lol


Retirement far for me still (I'm still under 30). I am just making sure I'm good when I do.

Yeah, wish I could use distractors. A Lieutenant Colonel is not one you can use distractors on. Or, all the officers that are the flight crew. Ah, the joys of being a three stripper when on orders.

gpupdate with a reboot is good one for sure. I use that one quite a bit when dealing client side support issues(technically I'm suppose to be a sys admin [3D0, not a 3D1] when on orders).

Just sucks there no Microcenter down here.







The nearest one is the one Darth is by, that is like a six hour drive for me.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Retirement far for me still (I'm still under 30). I am just making sure I'm good when I do.
> 
> Yeah, wish I could use distractors. A Lieutenant Colonel is not one you can use distractors on. Or, all the officers that are the flight crew. Ah, the joys of being a three stripper when on orders.
> 
> gpupdate with a reboot is good one for sure. I use that one quite a bit when dealing client side support issues(technically I'm suppose to be a sys admin [3D0, not a 3D1] when on orders).
> 
> Just sucks there no Microcenter down here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nearest one is the one Darth is by, that is like a six hour drive for me.


yes you can, you can use Distractors on LtCol all the time hahaha. Its not like they KNOW what you are talking about on the IT side...if they do, they can fix their own problems! (dont tell them that...it will get you NO WHERE hahaha)

It works on lawyers and interns at the WH all the time. Hard headed ones too. You just have to get really good at reading people and put them into a sense of a lull on the phone.

Dude, that drive though. make a 3 day weekend into a road trip. You sound like AF...so you get them. Like once a month, easily. Dont lie....hooya, chair force! (I am 15.5 years Navy btw)

You guys have Waaaaay too many MOS that do one job. I have one rate(MOS if you will) and do waaaay too many jobs.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> yes you can, you can use Distractors on LtCol all the time hahaha. Its not like they KNOW what you are talking about on the IT side...if they do, they can fix their own problems! (dont tell them that...it will get you NO WHERE hahaha)
> 
> It works on lawyers and interns at the WH all the time. Hard headed ones too. You just have to get really good at reading people and put them into a sense of a lull on the phone.
> 
> Dude, that drive though. make a 3 day weekend into a road trip. You sound like AF...so you get them. Like once a month, easily. Dont lie....hooya, chair force! (I am 15.5 years Navy btw)
> 
> You guys have Waaaaay too many MOS that do one job. I have one rate(MOS if you will) and do waaaay too many jobs.


There lies my problem. I suck at reading people along with being partly introverted. It don't help at all. Though, a good chunk of my Guard unit don't mind my weird behaviors. I actually had one member say he missed my wackiness while I was deployed.







When I mean it don't help at all, I actually got banned from answering the phones while deployed (me and phones don't get along). Talk about an awkward setup: someone answers the phone, have to come grab me and get me to fix the issue. They then call back and say problem is fix.

LoL, yeah, butt ton of AFSCs that is for sure.







I don't mind doing other AFSC jobs, keeps me from getting bored (me bored = me not interested and want to be lazy). But yeah, I am AF in the Guard. Six years prior though in aircraft maintenance in AF.


----------



## stephenn82

Keeps ya busy man! I am at a lull job...not much to do...just sit around and babysit a server room with no equipment that we actually own. Answer helpdesk calls from 11-7. My tech skills are dying...bleh

I too am an introvert. odd duckling, I notice people by how they walk, the sounds they make when shoes hit floor, etc. You can tell who is coming up behind you, who it is in the dark and only see a silhouette, etc. Body language is super easy to pick up when you notice stuff like this. When they are lying, etc.









I am glad you are back safe and sound from handing out those basketballs from inside the green zone









I REALLY dont hate him that much guys and gals of OCN...its a brotherly love thing. We give each other crap between services...im just jealous that the AF people were never in the office. Tells me I should have gotten THAT job. Never at work..lol

I went to next best thing and they were there....

Anywho, I snagged a budget/low cost block for 19 bucks on amazon, the one Jay reviewed. It will be here tomorrow. Yeah!

Now, I need rads (a 360 and a 280) and a reservoir that will fit a D5, or a top to vertically mount my pump like this here: Found at LTT


Im thinking if I do mount the pump down on top of my 140's, I can run discharge side right into the GPU, then feed the CPU, and run through both rads, and into reservoir. Or, should I just run a res/pump horizontal on bottom? The 1080 is pretty long in my case. I need to take/post pics of what I am planning lol


----------



## mouacyk

Less smooching... more overclocking! Chop chop!


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Less smooching... more overclocking! Chop chop!


I will get right on that! First...I need money...so I can build my loop. I will even have someone make a custom sticker for it saying "powered by mouacyk" if you want sponsorship hahahh


----------



## bundymania

Hi Guys,

Here are pictures of the new Helix Reservoirs from ALPHACOOL! How do you like them ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wonder how FrozenQ feels about these?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Wonder how FrozenQ feels about these?


they might get salty


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Here are pictures of the new Helix Reservoirs from ALPHACOOL! How do you like them ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

Some purple


----------



## Banedox

So here is my old build verse my new build =)


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Here are pictures of the new Helix Reservoirs from ALPHACOOL! How do you like them ?


Looks like a device used for smoking marijuana.


----------



## Leonko

device
















... it looks like capsules from Resident Evil that spread T-virus


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Here are pictures of the new Helix Reservoirs from ALPHACOOL! How do you like them ?


I wonder how long until someone starts whining and crying AC is a copycat artist and unoriginal, LoL.


----------



## bluedevil

Hey guys, gonna be building on this guy and wanted to know what kind of gear you all would suggest for the OCN YouTube Testbench PC?

https://ibb.co/nmZXc6

Gonna consist of:

Intel Core i9 7900X 10c/20thread
AsRock X299 Taichi Motherboard
Crucial Ballistix Elite 4x4 GB DDR3200 (want 32gb though)
Xigmatek 1200w Platinum PSU

I heard somewhere that the PC-T70X supports a 420 rad? Would rather use 140s over 120s.
https://goo.gl/CFviM1


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> I wonder how long until someone starts whining and crying AC is a copycat artist and unoriginal, LoL.


It only took them 10ish years to copy FrozenQ's design.

And Caedderman already commented.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Hey guys, gonna be building on this guy and wanted to know what kind of gear you all would suggest for the OCN YouTube Testbench PC?
> 
> https://ibb.co/nmZXc6
> 
> Gonna consist of:
> 
> Intel Core i9 7900X 10c/20thread
> AsRock X299 Taichi Motherboard
> Crucial Ballistix Elite 4x4 GB DDR3200 (want 32gb though)
> Xigmatek 1200w Platinum PSU
> 
> I heard somewhere that the PC-T70X supports a 420 rad? Would rather use 140s over 120s.
> https://goo.gl/CFviM1


Good looking testbench. Whish someone made a 480version

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> It only took them 10ish years to copy FrozenQ's design.
> 
> And Caedderman already commented.


Someone whined earlier that Barrow made one recently. Also, his opinion is invalid.
How are ya liking the new Made In The USA block?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Good looking testbench. Whish someone made a 480version
> Someone whined earlier that Barrow made one recently. Also, his opinion is invalid.
> How are ya liking the new Made In The USA block?


So did Alphacool copy Barrow?









No idea what block you are talking about, if you are talking about that new company out of Chicago, it looks nice and those fins look amazing. But I am not getting one, I swallowed my EK aversion and went with a EK monoblock for my upcoming build. Gigabyte Z370 Gaming 7

the EK aversion was due to how plain all of their products look...to add insult to injury, I am also pondering a new EK rad. My ancient Swiftech has to go. Had it forver. And at least the EK rads look easy to paint.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

In before this thread gets locked for the second time in under 30 days


----------



## nycgtr

Cablemod widebeams are some serious lights


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> device
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... it looks like capsules from Resident Evil that spread T-virus


That's what some of the Chinese sellers on aliexpress say about the Barrow ones lol.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> It only took them 10ish years to copy FrozenQ's design.
> 
> And Caedderman already commented.


As did I ask the question to how Frozen-Q would like this.

Yeah CableMod makes some great lights, the WideBeam's throw off some serious light


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> As did I ask the question to how Frozen-Q would like this.
> 
> Yeah CableMod makes some great lights, the WideBeam's throw off some serious light


They tend to overcharge you for there LED's. Specially when there better stuff out there. For the same price they charge you could get over 2 meters worth of LED's compared to only 50cm(0.5meters).


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Why
Quote:


> Crucial Ballistix Elite 4x4 GB DDR3200 (want 32gb though)


Seems Trident Z C14 is the bomb


----------



## DarthBaggins

Do love my 4x8GB Crucial Ballistix 2400 DDR4. But the Dominator kit is my favorite


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> As did I ask the question to how Frozen-Q would like this.
> 
> Yeah CableMod makes some great lights, the WideBeam's throw off some serious light


patents and copyrights for design normally last for ten years then there free for everyone to copy if not renewed (competitors can argue that they shouldn't be extended due to there only being one way to do a thing and block the patent extension)


----------



## bluedevil

So is TTL right about the 420 rad mounts on the PC-T70? It's at 3:05


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Does a DDC cause enough vibrations that it being held down by only 3 screws could cause issues ?


----------



## dwolvin

I'd guess not- half of my pumps have been diagonal screwed, and the last one was just sitting on a pad.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Does a DDC cause enough vibrations that it being held down by only 3 screws could cause issues ?


nope. mine is literally held in with velcro


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Banedox*
> 
> So here is my old build verse my new build =)


that looks like some major rad overkill xD

tha is if im correctly seeing a 360,420 and 120 in that white case for a single card and mono block


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> I'd guess not- half of my pumps have been diagonal screwed, and the last one was just sitting on a pad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> nope. mine is literally held in with velcro


Now I feel less getto ... Thanks for the info, was really worried when I couldn't seem to get it to mount nicely with all 4 screws ... Guessing the template was off or it has something to do with those rubber anti-vibration mounts. Ether way, really glad 3 screws should be good


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Banedox*
> 
> So here is my old build verse my new build =)


Are you one of those keyboard people?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Now I feel less getto ... Thanks for the info, was really worried when I couldn't seem to get it to mount nicely with all 4 screws ... Guessing the template was off or it has something to do with those rubber anti-vibration mounts. Ether way, really glad 3 screws should be good


not really a question of ghetto. if you view my pictures post of my sig rig a couple pages back, youll see why the pump is placed on velcro. great mounting. and great anti vibration pad all in one


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> not really a question of ghetto. if you view my pictures post of my sig rig a couple pages back, youll see why the pump is placed on velcro. great mounting. and great anti vibration pad all in one


Agreed. I use heavy duty thick velcro for my pumps and it works great. You can't see it. Mine are not show pieces but still respectable.


----------



## nycgtr

Never seen this in any of my loops in the 9 years of water cooling but what the hell is this? Looks like it's some build up of some sort. Only is at the water line. EK cryofuel navy blue was put in like 2 days ago. I flushed the loop with distilled like 6 times before I added the cryofuel.
Using petg btw.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Never seen this in any of my loops in the 9 years of water cooling but what the hell is this? Looks like it's some build up of some sort. Only is at the water line. EK cryofuel navy blue was put in like 2 days ago. I flushed the loop with distilled like 6 times before I added the cryofuel.
> Using petg btw.


I have the same thing in my EK Blood Red Cryofuel. I'm using EK Duraclear soft tubing.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So is TTL right about the 420 rad mounts on the PC-T70? It's at 3:05


Yes and no. Officially no.

In the video, that's a 360 rad and it doesn't fit inside with the end tanks. The three 120 fans barely fit inside. You wouldn't be able to mount the 420 rad or the three 140 fans on the inside due to the outside ends of the mount being bent inward.

You could put a 420 rad on the outside of the rear mount if you don't mind it extending beyond one side, and only using eight screws to mount it rather than the normal 12. Then mount the fans on the outside of the rad. I would have no problem doing that.


----------



## frostbite

Bought a new pump d5 Vario

Gonna get rid of the res as I fill from the rad,
Now looking at either ek evo non csq (don't like the design) or an Heatkiller pro IV

Both were to be Nickle but can go copper

Does anybody know what the water side of the d5 is made of?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Bought a new pump d5 Vario
> 
> Gonna get rid of the res as I fill from the rad,
> Now looking at either ek evo non csq (don't like the design) or an Heatkiller pro IV
> 
> Both were to be Nickle but can go copper
> 
> Does anybody know what the water side of the d5 is made of?


Stainless steel.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I have the same thing in my EK Blood Red Cryofuel. I'm using EK Duraclear soft tubing.


Did you ever remove it? Does it just come back?


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Stainless steel.


Ok I will get a copper block, no point adding another metal even if they're not reactive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Did you ever remove it? Does it just come back?


It really looks like watermarks just fill the reservoir to just under the lid


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Ok I will get a copper block, no point adding another metal even if they're not reactive
> It really looks like watermarks just fill the reservoir to just under the lid


Unfortunately it's not watermarks, it's small white bits. I could move it with a fill bottle tube and they definitely float to the top and stay there.


----------



## frostbite

I had some floaties in my res, after filling and could see them swirling when the loop was active

I put them down to being surface junk and removed them with a shop towel


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I had some floaties in my res, after filling and could see them swirling when the loop was active
> 
> I put them down to being surface junk and removed them with a shop towel


It's junk floating at the top that doesn't seem to be building up anymore than it has now at this point. I just need to come up with a way to remove it. From what I can tell it doesn't actually circulate thru the loop at all.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> It's junk floating at the top that doesn't seem to be building up anymore than it has now at this point. I just need to come up with a way to remove it. From what I can tell it doesn't actually circulate thru the loop at all.


An eye dropper, or a turkey baster if you've got a lot to remove.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> not really a question of ghetto. if you view my pictures post of my sig rig a couple pages back, youll see why the pump is placed on velcro. great mounting. and great anti vibration pad all in one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Agreed. I use heavy duty thick velcro for my pumps and it works great. You can't see it. Mine are not show pieces but still respectable.


Didn't mean it in an insulting way ... I apologize if I came across that way


----------



## Futan

Christmas present to myself. I think the hoodie in the back is paying respects to my wallet. F


----------



## stephenn82

Nice!! Is that a monsoon res? How much was it all said and done, for your res kit?


----------



## KCDC

Since I'm doing glass tubing, I figure it would be right to get a glass res as well.

Kicker is I want one that will work with a pump top.

Already found out the ek x4 glass res isn't compatible with the revo pump top that I have.

Wondering if anyone can help me here. It would be for a D5 pump. Pump top with glass res. Any company.

Thanks for any help!


----------



## Freakn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Good looking testbench. Whish someone made a 480version
> Someone whined earlier that Barrow made one recently. Also, his opinion is invalid.
> How are ya liking the new Made In The USA block?


Must agree with this post


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Since I'm doing glass tubing, I figure it would be right to get a glass res as well.
> 
> Kicker is I want one that will work with a pump top.
> 
> Already found out the ek x4 glass res isn't compatible with the revo pump top that I have.
> 
> Wondering if anyone can help me here. It would be for a D5 pump. Pump top with glass res. Any company.
> 
> Thanks for any help!


Check out the Watercool Heatkiller Tube D5 res.

Nice thick Borosilicate glass tube, three different lengths available, optional leds, strut colors, etc.

Good review on it from VSG:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/12/13/watercool-heatkiller-tube-200-d5-reservoir/


----------



## stephenn82

These look super awesome...would go well with the Air 740 design...just dont know where I would mount it with that 1080 in there...takes up so much room.


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> These look super awesome...would go well with the Air 740 design...just dont know where I would mount it with that 1080 in there...takes up so much room.


You could always consider doing something like this:










If you are only running the one GPU, then you should have plenty of space to keep the res in the front of the case.

There are more builds like this in the Air 540 Owner's club, but I am struggling to find them right now.


----------



## Futan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Nice!! Is that a monsoon res? How much was it all said and done, for your res kit?


Yep. It was $76.55 for a 150mm tube, D5 mount configuration. About ~$160 including the pump. About on par with other res/pump combos I saw. Maybe a bit on the high end of the spectrum, but to get it exactly how you want/need it is probably worth the $10 extra bucks. Especially when that could easily be what you pay in extra fittings.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> You could always consider doing something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are only running the one GPU, then you should have plenty of space to keep the res in the front of the case.
> 
> There are more builds like this in the Air 540 Owner's club, but I am struggling to find them right now.


I am tempted to get a second 1080 one day when everyone goes volta. I couldnt stand res up in front, seems like no room.

It looks as though i have just under 4 inches from front bulkhead of case to nose of card. Put a 35mm rad and 25mm case fans thats almost 2.25" gone. Leaves me with 1.5" room. Cant support a res.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futan*
> 
> Yep. It was $76.55 for a 150mm tube, D5 mount configuration. About ~$160 including the pump. About on par with other res/pump combos I saw. Maybe a bit on the high end of the spectrum, but to get it exactly how you want/need it is probably worth the $10 extra bucks. Especially when that could easily be what you pay in extra fittings.


Yeah, i have pump (which may be shot from shipment) already and looking to get a kit pieced together. I think a horizontal setup for a time will work...but i will outgrow this case...or be forced to kove res to the back chamber...

From front bulkhead to rear bulkhead i have just about 12" of wiggle room. Can easily hold a 150 and pump combo. Vertical space with stock hybrid cooler is 6.25" the EK will free up about a half inch. If i do sli, i would have about 2" spae from bottom catd...no bueno. I happy with one 1080 i suppose. ?


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Check out the Watercool Heatkiller Tube D5 res.
> 
> Nice thick Borosilicate glass tube, three different lengths available, optional leds, strut colors, etc.
> 
> Good review on it from VSG:
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/12/13/watercool-heatkiller-tube-200-d5-reservoir/


Nice, thanks!


----------



## stephenn82

Amazon has all of the MMRS kit for decent price. Pump cap, 150 tube (might go 200 depending if everything will fit) the tension rods, caps and rad/fan mount parts came up to about 80. Not bad. It looks big woth the mounting setup...but neat.

If i go with a horizontal res it may be the MMRS setup. Tempted to do hardline tubes.

If i go vertical, perhaps a heatkiller piece...but trying to tuck it in front...may have to get a different case. Ive had this one exactly a year, don't want to swap just yet.

Can a heatkiller tube be horizontally mounted?


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Amazon has all of the MMRS kit for decent price. Pump cap, 150 tube (might go 200 depending if everything will fit) the tension rods, caps and rad/fan mount parts came up to about 80. Not bad. It looks big woth the mounting setup...but neat.
> 
> If i go with a horizontal res it may be the MMRS setup. Tempted to do hardline tubes.
> 
> If i go vertical, perhaps a heatkiller piece...but trying to tuck it in front...may have to get a different case. Ive had this one exactly a year, don't want to swap just yet.
> 
> Can a heatkiller tube be horizontally mounted?


if not just flip the case on its side


----------



## stephenn82

anyone go to the .71 driver today? just dropped...


----------



## spinFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> With Aliexpress the shipping is generally included w/ the price. And it isn't the price that bothers me w/ BP, it is the huge painted logos. Plus the black paint on the Barrows is a better matte black vs the BPs. I've used the Barrow 90 degree rotaries in most of my builds for the last year and honestly I wouldn't consider anything else.
> 
> Look at how glossy the BP 'matte' fitting is compared to the Barrow.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-38-3.jpg.html


Yeah I found the same thing, my barrow fittings are much nice, look better, the rotary joints are easier to twist/turn, which makes them miles easier to install in tight areas.
The bitspower logo is ugly and large and usually on both sides of the fitting so there is no way to hide it from view, its very lame. Plus a lot of my bitspower fittings are close to the point of only being usable with a pair of pliers, which is not always possible given the location of the fitting.


----------



## jon666

Got everything for hardlines I think, just gotta not do any more mandatory OT, and holiday stuff coming up.


----------



## shadowsun

hello!

Is there a way to vertically mount a monsoon or watercool tank on a 120mm fan ?

i have an IN WIN 305 (same as a 303)


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadowsun*
> 
> hello!
> 
> Is there a way to vertically mount a monsoon or watercool tank on a 120mm fan ?
> 
> i have an IN WIN 305 (same as a 303)


Right here.


----------



## shadowsun

tanks! but i want a vertical mount, like this one :


----------



## Futan

It's a fan mount. If the fans are vertical then it can mount to them.

EDIT: Oh, I see. You want a vertical mount for a horizontal fan.

EDIT2: This is a vertical mount, but I don't know if you could get it to work on a fan.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-vertical-mount-matte-black.html


----------



## shadowsun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futan*
> 
> This is a vertical mount, but I don't know if you could get it to work on a fan.


I saw this one, that's precisely what I'm wondering


----------



## frostbite

How good is the Phanteks c350i?
I keep seeing it and there are not really any reviews


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Alright, Im back from Vaca.

TCO


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> that looks like some major rad overkill xD
> 
> tha is if im correctly seeing a 360,420 and 120 in that white case for a single card and mono block


Hi,
That is interesting piping going on there for sure








Looks like the fluid is going through 2 rads before going to the reservoir and then finally to the mono block.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spinFX*
> 
> Yeah I found the same thing, my barrow fittings are much nice, look better, the rotary joints are easier to twist/turn, which makes them miles easier to install in tight areas.
> The bitspower logo is ugly and large and usually on both sides of the fitting so there is no way to hide it from view, its very lame. Plus a lot of my bitspower fittings are close to the point of only being usable with a pair of pliers, which is not always possible given the location of the fitting.


Do they make some in black chrome? Trying to browse aliexpress is no fun. I should try it at home, perhaps the work firewall is too much for good use.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Alright, Im back from Vaca.
> 
> TCO


Welcome back to work


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Welcome back to work


Right? All in a days work.

TCO


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadowsun*
> 
> tanks! but i want a vertical mount, like this one :


You should be able to attach the vertical mount to the rad mount then.


----------



## mypickaxe

Torn between wanting to put my block back on the 1080 Ti versus holding steady with air cooling and waiting for consumer Volta.



Wish the XSPC block had nickel plating, but it looks fine and performs well on my 1950X.







I wish it had fit this way:


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Torn between wanting to put my block back on the 1080 Ti versus holding steady with air cooling and waiting for consumer Volta.
> I wish it had fit this way:


At least 3 months so your call.


----------



## rolldog

Has anyone here ever used the Primochill Vue coolant?
https://www.primochill.com/collections/vue-unique-visual/products/primochill-vue-pre-mix-32oz-sterling-silver
It looks a lot like the Mayhems Aurora with the nanoparticles in it that gum up your blocks. I'm just curious if this stuff does the same. Since everyone knew about the Mayhems Aurora gumming up their waterloop, then why would Primochill release a similar product unless they did something different with the coolant to avoid this happening. In multiple places under the description of the coolant, Primochill says that it rinses clean, won't clog your waterblocks, and won't stain. Just looking at the pictures of the coolant, it looks very similar to the Aurora, so it would be nice to get an opinion from anyone who might have actually used it.

Thanks.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Has anyone here ever used the Primochill Vue coolant?
> https://www.primochill.com/collections/vue-unique-visual/products/primochill-vue-pre-mix-32oz-sterling-silver
> It looks a lot like the Mayhems Aurora with the nanoparticles in it that gum up your blocks. I'm just curious if this stuff does the same. Since everyone knew about the Mayhems Aurora gumming up their waterloop, then why would Primochill release a similar product unless they did something different with the coolant to avoid this happening. In multiple places under the description of the coolant, Primochill says that it rinses clean, won't clog your waterblocks, and won't stain. Just looking at the pictures of the coolant, it looks very similar to the Aurora, so it would be nice to get an opinion from anyone who might have actually used it.
> 
> Thanks.


Check this out. http://www.overclock.net/t/1642095/primochill-vue-coolant-users-club/0_30


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Firstly ... Sorry for all the noob questions ... but I have another

I am redoing my loop with hardline now and I have chosen 16mm fittings which turns out was a bit of a flaw as the fittings are large and I have super tight spaces ... I have a 90º Rotary in my build that is being pressed down on by my second rad ...

Will this cause it to leak between the rotary part and the stationary part ?



*::: EDIT :::*

Sorry for the bad picture


----------



## SavantStrike

That shouldn't leak as long as the pressure is on the fitting and not the hard tubing. The pressure is also just forcing the o ring on the 90 to be compressed, so you should be fine.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> That shouldn't leak as long as the pressure is on the fitting and not the hard tubing. The pressure is also just forcing the o ring on the 90 to be compressed, so you should be fine.


The pressure is pushing the fitting in and down a little .. the downward force is what I was worried about


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Firstly ... Sorry for all the noob questions ... but I have another
> 
> I am redoing my loop with hardline now and I have chosen 16mm fittings which turns out was a bit of a flaw as the fittings are large and I have super tight spaces ... I have a 90º Rotary in my build that is being pressed down on by my second rad ...
> 
> Will this cause it to leak between the rotary part and the stationary part ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *::: EDIT :::*
> 
> Sorry for the bad picture


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> That shouldn't leak as long as the pressure is on the fitting and not the hard tubing. The pressure is also just forcing the o ring on the 90 to be compressed, so you should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> The pressure is pushing the fitting in and down a little .. the downward force is what I was worried about
Click to expand...

How about a Dremel tool with a sanding drum and relieve the fan frame a little so it's clear?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How about a Dremel tool with a sanding drum and relieve the fan frame a little so it's clear?


That is a very bad picture but it's the only one I had on hand ... the issue is that it is the radiator that is pressing on the fitting ...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How about a Dremel tool with a sanding drum and relieve the fan frame a little so it's clear?
> 
> 
> 
> That is a very bad picture but it's the only one I had on hand ... the issue is that it is the radiator that is pressing on the fitting ...
Click to expand...

Can you slightly slot the holes for the front rad mounting, so it can slide down a mm or so?

On another note . . .

My little Turdmaltake View 27 build has its software and AquaSuite installed, so I can finally control the lighting, fan and pump speed, a GPU, and a nice 50" Samsung 4K.

Time to get busy catching up on some of the other builds, now that I have real utility supplied power and internet after that horrible mess these last few months from the two cat 5 hurricanes in September.

Then maybe it'll be time to build a hot rod . . . .


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How about a Dremel tool with a sanding drum and relieve the fan frame a little so it's clear?


Diva, at this point in the year, I would expect my Naughty Mrs Clause pictures relatively soon























TCO


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Check this out. http://www.overclock.net/t/1642095/primochill-vue-coolant-users-club/0_30


Thanks for the link! I had no idea there would be an entire thread dedicated to this crap. I didn't get far into that thread before deciding to stick with plain ole distilled with some inhibitors. I just can't believe that someone, after spending a good deal of money and investing so much of their time into their build, would fill their loops with this stuff.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Diva, at this point in the year, I would expect my Naughty Mrs Clause pictures relatively soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


YES!


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Thanks for the link! I had no idea there would be an entire thread dedicated to this crap. I didn't get far into that thread before deciding to stick with plain ole distilled with some inhibitors. I just can't believe that someone, after spending a good deal of money and investing so much of their time into their build, would fill their loops with this stuff.


The only people that seem to be having trouble are ones that did not prep the system properly and let it completely dry out. Finicky maybe, but I wouldn't call it "crap".


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Thanks for the link! I had no idea there would be an entire thread dedicated to this crap. I didn't get far into that thread before deciding to stick with plain ole distilled with some inhibitors. I just can't believe that someone, after spending a good deal of money and investing so much of their time into their build, would fill their loops with this stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> The only people that seem to be having trouble are ones that did not prep the system properly and let it completely dry out. Finicky maybe, but I wouldn't call it "crap".
Click to expand...

Vue is literally the only thing working right in my system







After 2 bad msi boards, I switched to an asus board. Now my memory won't go past stock speed and asus aura lighting control doesn't detect my board so there's no controlling the RGBarf that I didn't want in the first place. Really loving the AMD life right now lol


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Thanks for the link! I had no idea there would be an entire thread dedicated to this crap. I didn't get far into that thread before deciding to stick with plain ole distilled with some inhibitors. I just can't believe that someone, after spending a good deal of money and investing so much of their time into their build, would fill their loops with this stuff.


lol ok drama. I haven't had any issues and if some arise... the worst will be I have to pull some blocks and clean up some gunk. Its not going to destroy ones "investments" as you put it.









Been filling my loops with distilled for 17 years, nice to try something more unique for a change


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Can you slightly slot the holes for the front rad mounting, so it can slide down a mm or so?


This did the trick, thanks so much







... ... Do you ever get used to drilling into your case ? ... haha

Thank you very much

What is considered the best block at the moment, I remember hearing amazing things about the Eisblock, is that still the case ? (it seems impossible to get a full block for my board anymore)

Merry Christmas to all


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Can you slightly slot the holes for the front rad mounting, so it can slide down a mm or so?
> 
> 
> 
> This did the trick, thanks so much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... ... *Do you ever get used to drilling into your case ?* ... haha
> 
> Thank you very much
> 
> What is considered the best block at the moment, I remember hearing amazing things about the Eisblock, is that still the case ? (it seems impossible to get a full block for my board anymore)
> 
> Merry Christmas to all
Click to expand...

Got used to drilling into them decades back . . . .

I pretty regularly assault them with all manner of power tools at this point, . . . even the expensive Caselabs ones.

Just installed a custom res in the top of my S3.

The lighting for the res is addressable and controls from an app on my phone or tablet. The other lighting for the midplate and under-side, can control from a keypad, or connect to the Aura header on the mobo.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Got used to drilling into them decades back . . . .
> 
> I pretty regularly assault them with all manner of power tools at this point, . . . even the expensive Caselabs ones.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just installed a custom res in the top of my S3.
> 
> The lighting for the res is addressable and controls from an app on my phone or tablet. The other lighting for the midplate and under-side, can control from a keypad, or connect to the Aura header on the mobo.


nice looking rig








i used to only pay max of £35 on cases and those i modded without a care but my last two cases have both been over £100 and since money is a lot tighter now i'm very reticent to give them the power tool treatment, with the mastercase 5 i dont mind doing some tweaking to the accessories (like the top bracket) that are cheap replacement parts but the main box i wont touch till ive had it at least 3 years.... the prior case was the storm scout version 1 and i did only 2 mods to that case in the 7 years i had it (replaced the plastic in the side with something non flared and drilled out the drive cage in favour of a 5.25" multi drive carrier for better airflow) in reality the one mod i really wanted to do to both cases was make a hole for fan on the bottom of the case but theres no way i can justify that kind of money to the wife on the case (she doesn't seem to mind up to £300 on the gfx card every couple of years) and then take a power tool to it lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How about a Dremel tool with a sanding drum and relieve the fan frame a little so it's clear?
> 
> 
> 
> Diva, at this point in the year, I would expect my Naughty Mrs Clause pictures relatively soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

How's this . . . .

Naughty Ms. Clause and her best GF . . . .



Did I ever mention how much I hate snow . . . .


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Still being water cooled


----------



## bluedevil

This thing need some WC. Stay tuned the OCN YT Rig is gonna be interesting.







Gonna run a 360mm in the rear and a 280mm down below. Separate loops with QDC.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> This thing need some WC. Stay tuned the OCN YT Rig is gonna be interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna run a 360mm in the rear and a 280mm down below. Separate loops with QDC.


Poor guy's case is inside-out.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Poor guy's case is inside-out.


how did he link it? via the forum image thing? Its a hosting site that is blocked at work...and I cannot see it


----------



## KCDC

Who makes the "cleanest" QDCs? Do they exist? I like the industrial look, but would like something that works more towards aesthetic..

Seems like Koolance has some decent looking ones, but they're still huge. Just looking for options.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Completed my first hardline build!



Full buildlog here - https://imgur.com/a/XYi6f


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Who makes the "cleanest" QDCs? Do they exist? I like the industrial look, but would like something that works more towards aesthetic..
> 
> Seems like Koolance has some decent looking ones, but they're still huge. Just looking for options.


I have one of these in white/silver. They're the best looking quick disconnects imo.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How's this . . . .
> 
> Naughty Ms. Clause and her best GF . . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did I ever mention how much I hate snow . . . .


As I am left wondering, which of these Blonde Bombshells are you?

TCO


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just installed a custom res in the top of my S3.
> 
> The lighting for the res is addressable and controls from an app on my phone or tablet. The other lighting for the midplate and under-side, can control from a keypad, or connect to the Aura header on the mobo.


Love this res Miss IT Diva!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Who makes the "cleanest" QDCs? Do they exist? I like the industrial look, but would like something that works more towards aesthetic..
> 
> Seems like Koolance has some decent looking ones, but they're still huge. Just looking for options.


Alphacool should have some fairly compact ones, but honestly you can't get QDCs that compact to start with. As far as I understand things the Koolance ones are by far the best to use, and they are about as big as everyone elses. I fyou need a compact solution where you can disconnect the lines then you probably need to loop at something like a female to female extender with a compression fitting in each end. That would open the loop directly though, but I think that is as compact as you could go. The size of these things is just one of the things that you will have to learn to live with, but I usually say that if there is something that you can't change then you should design the rest after that.


----------



## Gobstoppable

So ive had my system running for a few months, no problems. For christmas I got a new x299 board, and a ek rgb reservoir. So its time for me to drain my system and swap some things around. I figured nows a good oportunity to critique and change my tube management.

heres how i have it set up now:



all tips/critiques/advice welcome


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobstoppable*
> 
> So ive had my system running for a few months, no problems. For christmas I got a new x299 board, and a ek rgb reservoir. So its time for me to drain my system and swap some things around. I figured nows a good oportunity to critique and change my tube management.
> 
> heres how i have it set up now:
> 
> 
> 
> all tips/critiques/advice welcome


Get rid of the christmas fittings and go hardline while at it.


----------



## Gobstoppable

did that on purpose lol, and im not going hardline right now


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobstoppable*
> 
> did that on purpose lol, and im not going hardline right now


Ah ic. Well your components and case look good together. While you might of got those fittings on purpose imo it gives the look of you bought the "on sale fittings" and slapped it together.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> As I am left wondering, which of these Blonde Bombshells are you?
> 
> TCO


Dont care. The one on the right would get my (un)wanted attention tho........


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont care. The one on the right would get my (un)wanted attention tho........


Btw, wanted to toss up the Escape from tarkov thread for you. I saw you asked on Facebook about it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1616644/official-escape-from-tarkov-discussion-information-thread/0_20

TCO


----------



## Gobstoppable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Ah ic. Well your components and case look good together. While you might of got those fittings on purpose imo it gives the look of you bought the "on sale fittings" and slapped it together.


Once I get all my ducks in a row, ie my new x299 hardware and my m.2 hd's, I plan on ordering rainbow power cables. I figure once the rainbow power cables are in, and with the trident z ram, it will all match better







I use to have all silver fittings, considered all black, but i really like the multicolor fittings in person


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just installed a custom res in the top of my S3.
> 
> The lighting for the res is addressable and controls from an app on my phone or tablet. The other lighting for the midplate and under-side, can control from a keypad, or connect to the Aura header on the mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love this res Miss IT Diva!
Click to expand...

To get the tubing in, I had to turn it over so the allen screw heads were on top, and I put in 4 new G1/4 holes for the fittings.

It also looks much better with the perimeter LED strip surrounding the deeper milled half instead of the cover piece;


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To get the tubing in, I had to turn it over so the allen screw heads were on top, and I put in 4 new G1/4 holes for the fittings.
> 
> It also looks much better with the perimeter LED strip surrounding the deeper milled half instead of the cover piece;


Looks fantastic! Radikult make this res for you? Looks epic!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To get the tubing in, I had to turn it over so the allen screw heads were on top, and I put in 4 new G1/4 holes for the fittings.
> 
> It also looks much better with the perimeter LED strip surrounding the deeper milled half instead of the cover piece;


I like it but the cables are messy (not saying I dont have messy cables in mine btw lol) Think pure white cables would be better. I like this build better than the a few others I've seen of yours by quite a bit.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To get the tubing in, I had to turn it over so the allen screw heads were on top, and I put in 4 new G1/4 holes for the fittings.
> 
> It also looks much better with the perimeter LED strip surrounding the deeper milled half instead of the cover piece;
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks fantastic! Radikult make this res for you? Looks epic!
Click to expand...

Spoilers guys, Please . . . . You're killing the guys on mobile . .

Yes, It's a Radikult.

Fortunately, the pump integrated model has the allen screw heads on top.

As far as cables go, it's still a work in progress and I'm using cable-mod cables until I decide if it's worth spending for custom made ones.

Unfortunately, sometimes I have to settle for "what's in stock" for color choice. I would have gotten all white if they had been available.


----------



## stephenn82

He does great work...glad his cnc is back up and running. Unfortunately...i cant showcase anything awesome by him in my air 740 without having him do some mega custom work.


----------



## Yukss

Hi guys, some teaser of my chritsmas upgrades

Lots of bending to be done.. i problably finish tomorrow


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Spoilers guys, Please . . . . You're killing the guys on mobile . .
> 
> Yes, It's a Radikult.
> 
> Fortunately, the pump integrated model has the allen screw heads on top.
> 
> As far as cables go, it's still a work in progress and I'm using cable-mod cables until I decide if it's worth spending for custom made ones.
> 
> Unfortunately, sometimes I have to settle for "what's in stock" for color choice. I would have gotten all white if they had been available.


is it me or the GPU block looks like it has lint across the cooling fins? loving the full size photos on my 38" LG no nee to look at the originals


----------



## Sjonnieh

Hey guys,

Some pics of my build,

The first pic is the first time i build an watercooled pc, with EK-CryoFuel Lime Yellow,



The 2nd one is some minor upgrades and mayhems sunset yellow pastel, Also needed to redo all bending of tubes becaus it was stained and ugly bend.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjonnieh*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Some pics of my build,
> 
> The first pic is the first time i build an watercooled pc, with EK-CryoFuel Lime Yellow,
> 
> 
> 
> The 2nd one is some minor upgrades and mayhems sunset yellow pastel, Also needed to redo all bending of tubes becaus it was stained and ugly bend.


Sunset yellow.. love it. I had it for 7 months


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I have one of these in white/silver. They're the best looking quick disconnects imo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Alphacool should have some fairly compact ones, but honestly you can't get QDCs that compact to start with. As far as I understand things the Koolance ones are by far the best to use, and they are about as big as everyone elses. I fyou need a compact solution where you can disconnect the lines then you probably need to loop at something like a female to female extender with a compression fitting in each end. That would open the loop directly though, but I think that is as compact as you could go. The size of these things is just one of the things that you will have to learn to live with, but I usually say that if there is something that you can't change then you should design the rest after that.


Thanks for the links and info. Rep to both! Those Barrow fittings are pretty nice. Checking alphacool's offerings now.


----------



## KCDC

To the pros out there:

Is this bending kit overkill, or worth it in the long run? I'd plan to use it for every build, of course, not just a one-time thing.

I know that some bending kits have been frowned upon for poor components and such, but I think it looks interesting, just super expensive.

https://www.alphacool.com/eiskoffer-uebersicht


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> To the pros out there:
> 
> Is this bending kit overkill, or worth it in the long run? I'd plan to use it for every build, of course, not just a one-time thing.
> 
> I know that some bending kits have been frowned upon for poor components and such, but I think it looks interesting, just super expensive.
> 
> https://www.alphacool.com/eiskoffer-uebersicht


you going to be doing this a job on the side to make some cash? Or just like two PC's ever? If former, go ahead man...its pretty nice. make things quick and easy.

If only doing one or two, or even three PC's ever...maybe not such a huge investment.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> you going to be doing this a job on the side to make some cash? Or just like two PC's ever? If former, go ahead man...its pretty nice. make things quick and easy.
> 
> If only doing one or two, or even three PC's ever...maybe not such a huge investment.


I could see myself getting into it, building on the side for clients, but no time soon. Seems like a legit kit for that. My obsession for gear and tools has me wanting it. I will refrain.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> you going to be doing this a job on the side to make some cash? Or just like two PC's ever? If former, go ahead man...its pretty nice. make things quick and easy.
> 
> If only doing one or two, or even three PC's ever...maybe not such a huge investment.


Well, to be fair, he would need to redo bends every time a component is swapped so it's unlikely to be 2-3 times usage. Depending on how often parts are swapped out, it could very ewll be used a heap of times over a period of let say 10 years (though 10 years is long time in this scope of things).

I do agree though, if it's not for a business the investment might not be worth it. Though it depends on how much he values his time and how focused he is on having perfect bends (I can especially see it being useful for when you need to identical bends).


----------



## DarthBaggins

The price is not bad for everything you receive with that kit. That saw and mitre box are on my list of things to buy (other than the fine tooth saw I have)


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well, to be fair, he would need to redo bends every time a component is swapped so it's unlikely to be 2-3 times usage. Depending on how often parts are swapped out, it could very ewll be used a heap of times over a period of let say 10 years (though 10 years is long time in this scope of things).
> 
> I do agree though, if it's not for a business the investment might not be worth it. Though it depends on how much he values his time and how focused he is on having perfect bends (I can especially see it being useful for when you need to identical bends).


How often do you swap pc parts?

My 2008 build lasted me until mid 2011. That build carried me until nov 2016. This one may carry me 5 more years. Ride this PC until I retire. Perhaps swap GPU or get a second 1080 when time/price is right. Then when o retire I will get a crazy build. Either desk or wall mounted cooling station build.


----------



## Yukss

Update...


----------



## Streetdragon

why is the tube placed like that^^ somehow it looks wrong.. dont know...


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Update...


Looks great till the petg case handle on top. I did a build with this case as well. I know you end up having to run that top one but it can be lower for sure.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> why is the tube placed like that^^ somehow it looks wrong.. dont know...


Yes, i will def change it today. Thanks for ur advised

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Looks great till the petg case handle on top. I did a build with this case as well. I know you end up having to run that top one but it can be lower for sure.


Nice build u did. Yes, i will change it, anyways its a 560 rad which is wider and higher than a 480 rad, if u notice it will go over the case by few inches.


----------



## Streetdragon

you can just make a straight line to the left from the rad and than down to the vrm-block, easy and clean


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> To the pros out there:
> 
> Is this bending kit overkill, or worth it in the long run? I'd plan to use it for every build, of course, not just a one-time thing.
> 
> I know that some bending kits have been frowned upon for poor components and such, but I think it looks interesting, just super expensive.
> 
> https://www.alphacool.com/eiskoffer-uebersicht


Drools, why the heck you had to show that link.
Now I want it. Darn my weakness for tools. Considering my flipping parts out each year, that set be mighty nice to have on hand.


----------



## dicom

I think than Monsoon is much more affordable:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-pro-bender-kit-3-8-x-1-2-13mm.html

Also watched tutorials on youtube and really looks cool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OL6MVDIndvQ

Video has three parts.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> How often do you swap pc parts?
> 
> My 2008 build lasted me until mid 2011. That build carried me until nov 2016. This one may carry me 5 more years. Ride this PC until I retire. Perhaps swap GPU or get a second 1080 when time/price is right. Then when o retire I will get a crazy build. Either desk or wall mounted cooling station build.


I swap motherboards every 4-5 years or so depending on how significant the development is. GPUs is about the same, but I do tend to swap them after 2-3 years, or at least I did until games started developing slower than GPUs (only reason I upgraded recently was that I bought a 4k screen which needed more power). Still, my point what that even with a simple change of a GPU you will most likely need to redo at least 2 lines in the loop (or 4 if it's in parallel). I also know that some people do indeed swap hardware every time something new comes along so having a tool that makes that easier won't be that bad.

Either way it's not like 200 euros is that much when we are talking about tools, that's about the price you would have to pay for a decent electrical drill for example. It's all about how much you value your time, if you think that this particular kit can help you do bends in 1 hours instead of 2 then that might be worth paying 4 times the price of a more limited kit.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I swap motherboards every 4-5 years or so depending on how significant the development is. GPUs is about the same, but I do tend to swap them after 2-3 years, or at least I did until games started developing slower than GPUs (only reason I upgraded recently was that I bought a 4k screen which needed more power). Still, my point what that even with a simple change of a GPU you will most likely need to redo at least 2 lines in the loop (or 4 if it's in parallel). I also know that some people do indeed swap hardware every time something new comes along so having a tool that makes that easier won't be that bad.
> 
> Either way it's not like 200 euros is that much when we are talking about tools, that's about the price you would have to pay for a decent electrical drill for example. It's all about how much you value your time, if you think that this particular kit can help you do bends in 1 hours instead of 2 then that might be worth paying 4 times the price of a more limited kit.


If one is to keep the same mobo/cpu and perhaps get a second card for SLI/Crossfire, they could just get another block and connect the ports vertically to their mate above and be golden. Now, if they did what I did and go from r9 390 (didnt have a block) and go for a 1080, yeah, new lines everywhere...potentially recreating half of their loop.

so you bend loops maybe 4 or 5 times in a decade. I wouldnt recommend getting a whole kit just to do that. If someone wanted to start a business on the side earning extra scratch by doing other peoples systems....heck yes! After what, 4 or 5 other builds, the tool paid for itself.


----------



## nycgtr

Those kits are useless imo and they leave marks on the tubing in my experience sometimes. I just use one of those measuring mats that has angles marked or free hand.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> If one is to keep the same mobo/cpu and perhaps get a second card for SLI/Crossfire, they could just get another block and connect the ports vertically to their mate above and be golden. Now, if they did what I did and go from r9 390 (didnt have a block) and go for a 1080, yeah, new lines everywhere...potentially recreating half of their loop.
> 
> so you bend loops maybe 4 or 5 times in a decade. I wouldnt recommend getting a whole kit just to do that. If someone wanted to start a business on the side earning extra scratch by doing other peoples systems....heck yes! After what, 4 or 5 other builds, the tool paid for itself.


I agree, but it all depends on each person. Also SLI/CF is unfortunately rarely a good option in my experience, so I'd much rather redo the lines than getting identical cards/blocks. Either way I mostly have experience with soft tubing as I simply tinker way to much with my PC even if I don't install new parts. In fact my current build will be my first real attempt at hard lines, and I'm bending copper pipes (only 4 lines though, as I run everything else in hidden soft tubing) rather than acrylic/petg so any kit would be useless.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I agree, but it all depends on each person. Also SLI/CF is unfortunately rarely a good option in my experience, so I'd much rather redo the lines than getting identical cards/blocks. Either way I mostly have experience with soft tubing as I simply tinker way to much with my PC even if I don't install new parts. In fact my current build will be my first real attempt at hard lines, and I'm bending copper pipes (only 4 lines though, as I run everything else in hidden soft tubing) rather than acrylic/petg so any kit would be useless.


Tell me about it! I tinker too much with everything lol.

I was up til 2am last night messing with a CLCP and hooking up fans and rerouting all of my cables in back half last night. hahahaha

I really, really am considering running copper lines...they look nice! That or chrome plated. I just dont want the chrome to flake. I guess it could be plated after the lines are bent. A nice black chrome would go well with my parts.









A copper tube bender is cheaper than all the other things too.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Tell me about it! I tinker too much with everything lol.
> 
> I was up til 2am last night messing with a CLCP and hooking up fans and rerouting all of my cables in back half last night. hahahaha
> 
> I really, really am considering running copper lines...they look nice! That or chrome plated. I just dont want the chrome to flake. I guess it could be plated after the lines are bent. A nice black chrome would go well with my parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A copper tube bender is cheaper than all the other things too.


Well, yeah. Chromed pipes do have a tendency of cracking when bending them, though I have seen examples of it getting done without breaking the plating (I still don't know how they did it). If you are going for copper pipes, then I'd either get them painted or plated after they are finished bending just because I don't think the plating could really handle sharp bends all that well. Personally I'm going for bare copper, though I'm unsure if I want a polished finish or a tarnished yet. I still haven't gotten around to updating my build log yet, but the case is at least de-riveted and ready for me to start cutting and drilling in to it, though it has been ready for that for 4 months now. I'm just glad I had a spare case that I could place my system in the mean time though unfortunately it's all on air at the moment.


----------



## stephenn82




----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Those kits are useless imo and they leave marks on the tubing in my experience sometimes. I just use one of those measuring mats that has angles marked or free hand.


Never had the marks, I have the Monsoon kit. But I usually wind up using the squares on the rug after a while because I want the darn computer put together and back to crunching.








I just like having tools though.

Myself, I said crap it this last time and bent the tubes wacky since the GPUs are not in the loop at the moment (will be later). Not pretty at the moment but it works.


----------



## KCDC

These cool looking Phanteks Reservoirs popped up in my IG feed last night.

Interested!! Kinda nice having something non-cylindrical available. Not sure if the passive heatsinks will actually do anything, I'm sure reviewers will be all over testing that. Apologies if repost.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1644431/phanteks-phanteks-glacier-series-r220-and-r160-reservoirs-introduced


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> These cool looking Phanteks Reservoirs popped up in my IG feed last night.
> 
> Interested!! Kinda nice having something non-cylindrical available. Not sure if the passive heatsinks will actually do anything, I'm sure reviewers will be all over testing that. Apologies if repost.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1644431/phanteks-phanteks-glacier-series-r220-and-r160-reservoirs-introduced


My bet is that the "heatsink" on the res itself is to be able to mount it. The one on the DDC does however work quite well.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> My bet is that the "heatsink" on the res itself is to be able to mount it. The one on the DDC does however work quite well.


it mounts on a fan bracket in a perpendicular manner apparently.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> it mounts on a fan bracket in a perpendicular manner apparently.


There was mention that there are multiple mounting options. I hope that means it can be rotated in other directions. The heatsink is supposed to be functional. Will be interesting to see temp differences vs other res options.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> There was mention that there are multiple mounting options. I hope that means it can be rotated in other directions. The heatsink is supposed to be functional. Will be interesting to see temp differences vs other res options.


Near nothing. Xspc tried this years ago with a passive reservoir. I still have the huge one in my closet.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> There was mention that there are multiple mounting options. I hope that means it can be rotated in other directions. The heatsink is supposed to be functional. Will be interesting to see temp differences vs other res options.


Temp differences caused by the reservoir? Shouldn't be any.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> it mounts on a fan bracket in a perpendicular manner apparently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was mention that there are multiple mounting options. *I hope that means it can be rotated in other directions.* The heatsink is supposed to be functional. Will be interesting to see temp differences vs other res options.
Click to expand...

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-R160-R220-manual.pdf


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-R160-R220-manual.pdf


Thanks, I did see that, I was more wondering if it could be rotated on the mount vertically, so it would match the width of the radiator better, 90 degrees to the right. This would affect it's viewing angle depending on case orientation, but I would like to try it like that. However, looks like that isn't a viable option if I'd have just looked at the diagram closer.


----------



## looniam

assuming a res/pump combo:

forego using the supplied heatsink and find fan bracket mount?


----------



## Hardonhardware

I just want to say that I have been a creeper on this thread for MANY years and have recently been lucky enough to build my first custom loop. I just have one issue, my CPU temps are really high. I have a loop that has a D5 pump a GPU block on a GTX 1080 and a CPU block on an AMD 1700x. I have 2x240mm Black ice GTS rads with vardars on them.

The CPU block is an EK supremacy evo, but a fairly old one, I bought un-used but second hand. The CPU is clocked to 4 GHz and while gaming runs up to the low 70's sometimes. The reason I find this very weird is because the GPU never goes above 35. They are in the same loop and surely should be running at a similar temperature. I will post a picture of the CPU block, maybe I am using the wrong jet plate (I have the standard one in) or installed the block incorrectly? I have the flow running into the right ports.

Please help, I am not sure how to trouble shoot as I am new to water cooling. Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardonhardware*
> 
> I just want to say that I have been a creeper on this thread for MANY years and have recently been lucky enough to build my first custom loop. I just have one issue, my CPU temps are really high. I have a loop that has a D5 pump a GPU block on a GTX 1080 and a CPU block on an AMD 1700x. I have 2x240mm Black ice GTS rads with vardars on them.
> 
> The CPU block is an EK supremacy evo, but a fairly old one, I bought un-used but second hand. The CPU is clocked to 4 GHz and while gaming runs up to the low 70's sometimes. The reason I find this very weird is because the GPU never goes above 35. They are in the same loop and surely should be running at a similar temperature. I will post a picture of the CPU block, maybe I am using the wrong jet plate (I have the standard one in) or installed the block incorrectly? I have the flow running into the right ports.
> 
> Please help, I am not sure how to trouble shoot as I am new to water cooling. Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you taken any steps to rectify the problem on your own? Or are these your initial temps after assembling the loop?

Example: Taking your block off the processor and reapplying the Thermal Paste?

TCO


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Temp differences caused by the reservoir? Shouldn't be any.


Hi,
I wondered about that I'm using a shorter reservoir than the one that came with my ek 280 performance kit just to get it under my evga 1080ti
Air is really to help cool the pump as far as I guessed thanks


----------



## Hardonhardware

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Have you taken any steps to rectify the problem on your own? Or are these your initial temps after assembling the loop?
> 
> Example: Taking your block off the processor and reapplying the Thermal Paste?
> 
> TCO


I haven't reseated the CPU block yet, I am just worried that I go through the process and then it doesn't make any difference, which I guess is how troubleshooting a PC works, but I meant is there more I can do to troubleshoot the block than just reseat it in one go? For example when I drain the loop should I also take the block apart and change out the jet plate, or is there something specific I should look for damage wise? Thank you for your reply.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardonhardware*
> 
> I just want to say that I have been a creeper on this thread for MANY years and have recently been lucky enough to build my first custom loop. I just have one issue, my CPU temps are really high. I have a loop that has a D5 pump a GPU block on a GTX 1080 and a CPU block on an AMD 1700x. I have 2x240mm Black ice GTS rads with vardars on them.
> 
> The CPU block is an EK supremacy evo, but a fairly old one, I bought un-used but second hand. *The CPU is clocked to 4 GHz and while gaming runs up to the low 70's sometimes. The reason I find this very weird is because the GPU never goes above 35. They are in the same loop and surely should be running at a similar temperature.* I will post a picture of the CPU block, maybe I am using the wrong jet plate (I have the standard one in) or installed the block incorrectly? I have the flow running into the right ports.
> 
> Please help, I am not sure how to trouble shoot as I am new to water cooling. Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your observation of GPU and CPU component temps are in line with expectations. GPUs tend to have a massive die relative to CPUs and thus remove their heat away quicker, preventing thermal buildup. Put another way, GPUs have always benefited much more from watercooling than CPUS. Similarly, my 1080 TI barely surpasses 40C but CPU can reach up to 70C in very heavy loads, with my water temperature balanced out at 32C.

4GHz on 1700x is an extreme overclock and you're probably running nearly maximum voltage on it to achieve that. That surely will ramp up your CPU temp, as you are seeing. I would check around with other RyZen owners before breaking down your loop. The results sound fine to me.


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardonhardware*
> 
> I haven't reseated the CPU block yet, I am just worried that I go through the process and then it doesn't make any difference, which I guess is how troubleshooting a PC works, but I meant is there more I can do to troubleshoot the block than just reseat it in one go? For example when I drain the loop should I also take the block apart and change out the jet plate, or is there something specific I should look for damage wise? Thank you for your reply.


Hi,
It would be nice if you used this sites rig builder and add all your equipment to it and some images








Which thermal paste are you using ?
Thermal grizzly kryonaut or noctua NT-H1 seem to be the best although I find NT-H1 best.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardonhardware*
> 
> I haven't reseated the CPU block yet, I am just worried that I go through the process and then it doesn't make any difference, which I guess is how troubleshooting a PC works, but I meant is there more I can do to troubleshoot the block than just reseat it in one go? For example when I drain the loop should I also take the block apart and change out the jet plate, or is there something specific I should look for damage wise? Thank you for your reply.


Just plates don't make that much difference. The default jet plate is for Intel but putting the recommended one for your specific CPU will only make a difference of maybe 5°C if you're lucky.

Also, it is very common to have a large difference in temps (15-20°C) between a CPU and GPU in the same loop. However, your CPU shouldn't be getting that hot while gaming. CPU torture tests like Prime95 would be a different story.

Those Nemesis GTS rads are very restrictive for water flow -- the second-worst that Extreme Rigs has tested. How fast do you have the pump running?

I'd try the easy solutions first. Increase the pump RPM up to about 50% (or 75% if it's already at 50%), and increase the speed of the Vardars. See what effect that has.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Torn between wanting to put my block back on the 1080 Ti versus holding steady with air cooling and waiting for consumer Volta.
> 
> At least 3 months so your call.
Click to expand...

I opted for the block after remembering I have a couple of quick disconnects from a retired EK Predator 360.

It may not look flashy without hardline tubing and all black or RGB fans, but I am digging the silver, black and blue motif with the Noctua fans offering quite a bit of contrast. I may switch them out for Corsair ML Pro RGBs sometime in the future, but I have quite the investment in Noctua at the moment.









I really wanted the water block back on so I could free up the blocked PCIe slot. I moved my 750 Series SSD to the second slot, installed my Asus Hyper x16, and now I wait for my 960 Pros to arrive.

Hopefully (crossing fingers) I don't have a nightmare NVMe RAID scenario on my hands, considering Asus has been reworking that support in recent UEFI revisions.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardonhardware*
> 
> I just want to say that I have been a creeper on this thread for MANY years and have recently been lucky enough to build my first custom loop. I just have one issue, my CPU temps are really high. I have a loop that has a D5 pump a GPU block on a GTX 1080 and a CPU block on an AMD 1700x. I have 2x240mm Black ice GTS rads with vardars on them.
> 
> The CPU block is an EK supremacy evo, but a fairly old one, I bought un-used but second hand. The CPU is clocked to 4 GHz and while gaming runs up to the low 70's sometimes. The reason I find this very weird is because the GPU never goes above 35. They are in the same loop and surely should be running at a similar temperature. I will post a picture of the CPU block, maybe I am using the wrong jet plate (I have the standard one in) or installed the block incorrectly? I have the flow running into the right ports.
> 
> Please help, I am not sure how to trouble shoot as I am new to water cooling. Thanks in advance for any help.


Welcome to OCN!!

Please take a moment and go introduce yourself here, break out from just being a long time lurker (I did the same thing lol)
http://www.overclock.net/f/2/new-members

Nice build!

What is the typical temps for 1700x under water? Does it mate with good contact on the CPU? Are any bracket pieces hanging off hitting any heatsinks for VRM components causing it to be raised any? After looking at the pics, ruled that out. Shoulda did that FIRST haha.

Maybe its the case? Is it the Phanteks Evolve? It looks as though that it is normal temps, according to these people - 70-80c on CPU
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/5qj2mn/ek_supremacy_evo_high_temps/

These people are seeing lower temps on CPU - 53c after leveling off.
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qr6scf

Only thing that comes to mind is either bad paste contact/spread on CPU...or not enough fluid flowing through the system.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardonhardware*
> 
> I haven't reseated the CPU block yet, I am just worried that I go through the process and then it doesn't make any difference, which I guess is how troubleshooting a PC works, but I meant is there more I can do to troubleshoot the block than just reseat it in one go? For example when I drain the loop should I also take the block apart and change out the jet plate, or is there something specific I should look for damage wise? Thank you for your reply.


The temps depends a lot on your specific overclock and whether or not your are reading the correct temps.

A few things to consider:


The EK jet plate that works best on ryzen is the one with the largest hole in it, it's listed as "universal" if I remember correctly. Just what I experienced with mine, but there shouldn't be more than 1-2*c difference either way.
The 1600x, 1700x and 1800x all list their CPU temps with a 20*c offset, so depedning on what software you use you may be seeing a 20*c higher temp than what is actually the temp. The best software so far for seeing the correct temps is HWinfo64, where it will list 2 temps for the CPU with one having the offset and the other not. It would be nice to know which temperature you are actually seeing.
4.0Ghz is a really agressive clock on a 1700x, and I would love to see what voltages you are running to achive this. AMD advices to not run more than 1.425v for 24/7 use on water and I would follow that advice. Personally I can't push my 1700x past 3.8Ghz without ludicrous voltages, so you should really list the voltages as that could very well be the issue.
If you still have issues after this then please do list voltages and CPU die temps with and without offset from HWinfo, and we can start looking at more hands on approaches.


----------



## poisson21

With a ryzen on water you normally don't see temperature that high, before my monoblock i've had a supremacy evo, and one of my mistake were to not orient properly the block base properly after mounting the AM4 mounting plate. If the orientation is 90° off you can expect temperature inconsistency.
With my 1800X at 4Ghz 1.425 V i 'd hit 60+°C with the wrong orientation, and 45+°C with the good one. (real temp without the offset)


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poisson21*
> 
> With a ryzen on water you normally don't see temperature that high, before my monoblock i've had a supremacy evo, and one of my mistake were to not orient properly the block base properly after mounting the AM4 mounting plate. If the orientation is 90° off you can expect temperature inconsistency.
> With my 1800X at 4Ghz 1.425 V i 'd hit 60+°C with the wrong orientation, and 45+°C with the good one. (real temp without the offset)


Looking at the picture, it should be the correct orientation though. What you want is for the jet plate to be parallel with the die, which means the standard orientation is best. The reason for this is that you want the jet plate to direct the water directly on to the die and not to the sides of it, as this considerably increases the speed at which heat is diverted from the core.


----------



## Hardonhardware

Firstly, I just want to say thank you for all the responses, you guys are all super helpful. I will definitely do a proper lot of photos of the build soon. I am very excited to be part of the water cooling world.

I went and had a look at the voltages that were set in the BIOS and I was actually running it in auto so it could push it all the way to v1.45 (it was sitting at v1.43 just in the BIOS), so I dropped the voltages (to a max of v1.4) and increased the pump speed, this has led to a definite improvement in temps. So it seems as though the CPU was just being pushed way too hard. The reason I didn't think this was the case with that overclock is because I could run that overclock with a Coolermaster hyper 212X and it would peak at like 76 degrees in Aida. I am current sitting at 54 in AIDA with the changes I made on your recommendations.

In response to the question about what case its in, I built the rig in the Phanteks pro M tempered glass, which is like the evolv's smaller, uglier but better airflowed brother.

I am using HWmonitor and I have updated the BIOS for my motherboard (X370 strix) so all the temps are without the offset. I installed monitoring software that take the offset into account and the offset temp it gives is the temp my other monitoring software provides.(ie HWmonitor)

It seems as though I am using the right jet plate then, it is the one with the bigger hole.









Now I am going to do some gaming and see what effect that changes have made. Thanks again for the help up to this point.


----------



## stephenn82

I also seen that certain programs read temps wrong. What are you using? HWInfo64?


----------



## Spawne32

Are there any companies out there making 90 degree compression fittings for soft tubing? I got some tight bends here in an itx case that is going to be using some really short tight runs, might not be able to get the soft tubing the way i want it, but i dont want to have to invest in hard tubing and associated tools.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> Are there any companies out there making 90 degree compression fittings for soft tubing? I got some tight bends here in an itx case that is going to be using some really short tight runs, might not be able to get the soft tubing the way i want it, but i dont want to have to invest in hard tubing and associated tools.


The normal thing would be to use 90* "extenders" and fit a compression fitting to that, but there are plenty of companies making direct 90* compression fittings as well. When in doubt though Bitspower has the largest selection of fittings as far as I know, so here is one in ID 3/8" OD 1/2".

It doesn't take that much effort to find something that fits what you want so just look in the stores that you are considering buying from.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> Are there any companies out there making 90 degree compression fittings for soft tubing? I got some tight bends here in an itx case that is going to be using some really short tight runs, might not be able to get the soft tubing the way i want it, but i dont want to have to invest in hard tubing and associated tools.


Exactly what rainmaker said. That's how I do it in mine. Just use the angled adapters. Should work great.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> Are there any companies out there making 90 degree compression fittings for soft tubing? I got some tight bends here in an itx case that is going to be using some really short tight runs, might not be able to get the soft tubing the way i want it, but i dont want to have to invest in hard tubing and associated tools.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly what rainmaker said. That's how I do it in mine. Just use the angled adapters. Should work great.
Click to expand...

Yep, no space issues here, but I'm using a 90 and a 45 with compression fittings attached, on the GPU and top of the reservoir as pictured. There's also another 90 and 45 on the front and top of the pump if you look at the bottom of the case behind the rad.


----------



## stephenn82

Would you see any issues with this cooling setup?

Pump goes into gpu block and passes through intlet to cpu.
Cpu out goes into 360 rad mounted in front.

Rad out goes into gpu outlet side and passes through to reservoir.

Pic borrowed from legit reviews. And sorry for my mad pixlr skills in advance.


I am limited with space between a 1080 ftw and front bulkhead of my air 740. Cant mount a vertical res up front. So it has to lay down in bottom.

Trying to figure out where to put drain. And how to burp air out when filling it.

Probably a bad loop design.

Trying to keep all components in visible side of case. Not tucked away in back half of chamber.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Would you see any issues with this cooling setup?
> 
> Pump goes into gpu block and passes through intlet to cpu.
> Cpu out goes into 360 rad mounted in front.
> 
> Rad out goes into gpu outlet side and passes through to reservoir.
> 
> I gotta get on paint to do this for the visual creatures like me. I will post it here.
> 
> I am limited with space between a 1080 ftw and front bulkhead of my air 740. Cant mount a vertical res up front. So it has to lay down in bottom.
> 
> Trying to figure out where to put drain. And how to burp air out when filling it.
> 
> Probably a bad loop design.
> 
> Trying to keep all components in visible side of case. Not tucked away in back half of chamber.


If I've understood you correctly, its a fail waiting to happen . . .

That sounds like you have the GPU in parallel with a series combination of the CPU and rad.

Parallel blocks work fine, as long as the restriction of each is about the same.

Adding the restriction of a rad in series with the CPU block is going to force most of the coolant thru the GPU block only, as flow divides inversely proportionally to the restriction.

If haven't misread your intent, I'd rethink the plan


----------



## stephenn82

Sounds good.

Trying to save space/tubing hurts the loop.
What if cpu and gpu ran series/parallel (that a thing in liquid world?) So cpu discharge to gpu discharge and pass that into radiator?



Same deal? Not enough flow to CPU?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Sounds good.
> 
> Trying to save space/tubing hurts the loop.
> What if cpu and gpu ran series/parallel (that a thing in liquid world?) So cpu discharge to gpu discharge and pass that into radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> Same deal? Not enough flow to CPU?


This is fine . . .









The flow thru the GPU and CPU will divide pretty equally, and ALL the coolant will pass thru the rad, instead of only about 1/3 of it.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is fine . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flow thru the GPU and CPU will divide pretty equally, and ALL the coolant will pass thru the rad, instead of only about 1/3 of it.


thanks for helping me out! No need to fry components. Haha

Even gor a small science lesson on fluid flow through designs. Gotta learn more about that. Electricity is simpler. But same principles i suppose.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is fine . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flow thru the GPU and CPU will divide pretty equally, and ALL the coolant will pass thru the rad, instead of only about 1/3 of it.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for helping me out! No need to fry components. Haha
> 
> Even gor a small science lesson on fluid flow through designs. Gotta learn more about that. Electricity is simpler. But same principles i suppose.
Click to expand...

Not really simpler, nor really that much different . . .

Replace electrons with molecules of water and think about resistors in series/parallel combinations.


----------



## Yukss

not done yet, just a teaser..


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not really simpler, nor really that much different . . .
> 
> Replace electrons with molecules of water and think about resistors in series/parallel combinations.


True. Once you reasoned it out how the flow would be 1/3rd of potential through CPU block, I seen the layout as resistors, etc. Then it all clicked. Wasnt quite seeing it as the same until then.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> True. Once you reasoned it out how the flow would be 1/3rd of potential through CPU block, I seen the layout as resistors, etc. Then it all clicked. Wasnt quite seeing it as the same until then.


Depending on how your loop performs out of the gate you might want to make room for a second radiator in the top. 360 should be fine, but depending on the components and the over clock it can mean that you need to run the fans at a higher speed than wanted. Other than that I agree with @IT Diva the second sugestion would be preferable in that case. Parallel GPU and CPU looks best in my opinion, but you could also do a more traditional layout where you just run everything as a straight line having 1 line from the pump to the GPU, 1 line from the GPU to the CPU, 1 line from the CPU to the rad and then 1 line from the rad to the res.

Some things to keep in mind when running parallell gpu/cpu though is to let the GPU decide which of the lines are inlet and outlet, you can always flip the CPU block on the head but that is far more difficult (or rather straight out impossible) to do with a GPU block. You want inlet to go to inlet and outlet to go to outlet, which is especially important on blocks with a jetplate (meaning most modern blocks).


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Depending on how your loop performs out of the gate you might want to make room for a second radiator in the top. 360 should be fine, but depending on the components and the over clock it can mean that you need to run the fans at a higher speed than wanted. Other than that I agree with @IT Diva the second sugestion would be preferable in that case. Parallel GPU and CPU looks best in my opinion, but you could also do a more traditional layout where you just run everything as a straight line having 1 line from the pump to the GPU, 1 line from the GPU to the CPU, 1 line from the CPU to the rad and then 1 line from the rad to the res.
> 
> Some things to keep in mind when running parallell gpu/cpu though is to let the GPU decide which of the lines are inlet and outlet, you can always flip the CPU block on the head but that is far more difficult (or rather straight out impossible) to do with a GPU block. You want inlet to go to inlet and outlet to go to outlet, which is especially important on blocks with a jetplate (meaning most modern blocks).


I want to run a 280 up top. But it may hit the 360 in front. I k ow an SE 360 woupd still work very well eveb thpugh its not the "best" 360 rad.

I also tead a lot of people bashing the cross flow rads. It would be best, in my case, to have opposing inlet/otlets instead of same sided. But crossfliw rads suck, accorsing to everyone. I would run two of them just for the sake of saving space!

I dont think my EK 1080 ftw acetal block hasel a jetplate. My CPU block doesnt. Its a cheapy amazon deal that Jayztwocents did a comapro with on his 87ppk build. Came in at 19 bucks vice 75. And was 1-3c warmer. Im not rinnging that insane of hardware. Just a 6700k delidded at 4.6ghz/1.29v. A budget friendly block will do fine.

Micro center had an acrylic 1080 ftw for 53. Dangit! I want to swap it out. Tempted...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> I want to run a 280 up top. But it may hit the 360 in front. I k ow an SE 360 woupd still work very well eveb thpugh its not the "best" 360 rad.
> 
> I also tead a lot of people bashing the cross flow rads. It would be best, in my case, to have opposing inlet/otlets instead of same sided. But crossfliw rads suck, accorsing to everyone. I would run two of them just for the sake of saving space!
> 
> I dont think my EK 1080 ftw acetal block hasel a jetplate. My CPU block doesnt. Its a cheapy amazon deal that Jayztwocents did a comapro with on his 87ppk build. Came in at 19 bucks vice 75. And was 1-3c warmer. Im not rinnging that insane of hardware. Just a 6700k delidded at 4.6ghz/1.29v. A budget friendly block will do fine.
> 
> Micro center had an acrylic 1080 ftw for 53. Dangit! I want to swap it out. Tempted...


Most modern full cover blocks do have a jet plate in them, though it would help to know which one to be sure. As for the cheap block, it should work perfectly fine. As long as it doesn't leak there really isn't a reason not to try (If I remember correctly that is a copper block to so it's good when you don't want to mix metals).


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Most modern full cover blocks do have a jet plate in them, though it would help to know which one to be sure. As for the cheap block, it should work perfectly fine. As long as it doesn't leak there really isn't a reason not to try (If I remember correctly that is a copper block to so it's good when you don't want to mix metals).


Bimetallic corrosion is no fun. Avoiding aluminum at all costs. I had an aluminum super structure and stainless mounts for antennas. I know ALL about those problems.


----------



## Yukss




----------



## TeslaHUN

Im planning a loop in TT The Tower900 case.
With 2*480 Phobya G-Changer 480mm Radiator (V2) (480*60). I want the fans both on intake .
So 8intake in the rear radiator chamber and only 1*14cm exhaust fan on the top . (+2*14cm passive exhaust area at the back, but no fans attached )
My fear is , one exhaust wont be enoughand heat will trapped inside. Shall i mount my PSU with fan facing up , so it could also exhaust the heated air from rads ?
Found this picture on the internet , to help u imagine what im talking about :


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> Im planning a loop in TT The Tower900 case.
> With 2*480 Phobya G-Changer 480mm Radiator (V2) (480*60). I want the fans both on intake .
> So 8intake in the rear radiator chamber and only 1*14cm exhaust fan on the top . (+2*14cm passive exhaust area at the back, but no fans attached )
> My fear is , one exhaust wont be enoughand heat will trapped inside. Shall i mount my PSU with fan facing up , so it could also exhaust the heated air from rads ?
> Found this picture on the internet , to help u imagine what im talking about :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Since the back panel offers mounting for 2X 120's or 140's why not at least populate those positions with capable fans and see what kind of temps you get . .

There's no shortage of T900 builds, and air entrapment in the rear chamber hasn't shown up as an issue.

Put the PSU fan down so it gets the coolest air possible, that'll be more beneficial than the miniscule amount it could help exhausting the rear compartment.

But why use 480's when there's room for 560's . . . .

It's one of the few cases that's made for 560's, why not exploit that, more cooling capacity and a better aesthetic.

Worst case scenario is that you have to mod the back panel to accommodate more exhaust fans.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Since the back panel offers mounting for 2X 120's or 140's why not at least populate those positions with capable fans and see what kind of temps you get . .
> 
> There's no shortage of T900 builds, and air entrapment in the rear chamber hasn't shown up as an issue.
> 
> Put the PSU fan down so it gets the coolest air possible, that'll be more beneficial than the miniscule amount it could help exhausting the rear compartment.
> 
> But why use 480's when there's room for 560's . . . .
> 
> It's one of the few cases that's made for 560's, why not exploit that, more cooling capacity and a better aesthetic.
> 
> Worst case scenario is that you have to mod the back panel to accommodate more exhaust fans.


560 rad is not an option for me , since the tower900 fan bracket is so restictive, 140mm fans would make strange/turbulent noise attached to that
bracket :



Back panel fan is possible, but when i would remove the back panel for maintenance , must be careful with the back fan cables then.

Also there is an option: one side radiator fan intake , and on the opposite side radiators fan on exhaust. so 4-4 fan cross air flow.


----------



## lexer

I upgraded my Lian Li PC-A05N after 10 years i think







to a Noctis 450 ROG Edition. Is the only mid-tower case that i could find that can fit my 360mm crossflow rad with minimal modifications. Only thing i don't like is all the RGB crap i removed like 10kg of cables and stuff


----------



## IT Diva

Need some help on this one guys . . . .

Does anyone know anything about this build or have any links?

I'm really starting to like the TriStellar, especially after Sebastian's incredible build, and this acrylic modded, turned-on-end concept is really unique and right along the idea that I had in my mind's eye.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> Im planning a loop in TT The Tower900 case.
> With 2*480 Phobya G-Changer 480mm Radiator (V2) (480*60). I want the fans both on intake .
> So 8intake in the rear radiator chamber and only 1*14cm exhaust fan on the top . (+2*14cm passive exhaust area at the back, but no fans attached )
> My fear is , one exhaust wont be enoughand heat will trapped inside. Shall i mount my PSU with fan facing up , so it could also exhaust the heated air from rads ?
> Found this picture on the internet , to help u imagine what im talking about :


@kfxsti you have been summoned. I think you are using or have used this


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Need some help on this one guys . . . .
> 
> Does anyone know anything about this build or have any links?
> 
> I'm really starting to like the TriStellar, especially after Sebastian's incredible build, and this acrylic modded, turned-on-end concept is really unique and right along the idea that I had in my mind's eye.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


By what I can on find the individual, Timpelay is over on SWEclockers forum. I can find some of this individual's other build logs, but still hunting out this one.
So far, found this: https://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/14285-iris


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Need some help on this one guys . . . .
> 
> Does anyone know anything about this build or have any links?
> 
> I'm really starting to like the TriStellar, especially after Sebastian's incredible build, and this acrylic modded, turned-on-end concept is really unique and right along the idea that I had in my mind's eye.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By what I can on find the individual, Timpelay is over on SWEclockers forum. I can find some of this individual's other build logs, but still hunting out this one.
> So far, found this: https://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/14285-iris
Click to expand...

Thanks,

Though rather dark, the pics do seem helpful in getting an idea of how he set about his plan..

I ordered the TriStellar case from Amazon this afternoon, since I was already shopping to replace the mobo in the Core X1 build that suffered water damage from the hurricanes that I didn't notice until I started to run tubing today.

Once it gets here and I have it physically in hand, I'll be in a better place to plan from, but some good pics are great ways to get more ideas.

Here's the mobo I had to replace . . . that got me shopping in the first place . . .

I'm pretty sure this one's not gonna work too well:;


----------



## Shweller

Hello all, Has anyone seen this before. Can't tell what is happening. Is this algae or corrosion. Block is not old and radiators I am using were in my previous build with no issues. I am using dead water drops and a g1/4 silver plug. Any information would be greatly appreciated.







[/URL]


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shweller*
> 
> Hello all, Has anyone seen this before. Can't tell what is happening. Is this algae or corrosion. Block is not old and radiators I am using were in my previous build with no issues. I am using dead water drops and a g1/4 silver plug. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


Might just be dirt. Did you clean the components with tap water or mineral, or use any tap or mineral water when you filled the loop?


----------



## Shweller

I just used distilled water from the beginning. Radiators were in my old build.if you look closely there is almost like a black floating spot in the water by the oring.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Might just be dirt. Did you clean the components with tap water or mineral, or use any tap or mineral water when you filled the loop?


----------



## KaffieneKing

@Shweller you will get corrosion with nickel plated parts and silver parts, so I would take that silver plug out if I were you.

Any chance we can get some better photos of the CPU block? How old is the loop?


----------



## Shweller

Only a month old but it has seen some me use as I set up my computer to mine when idle. The g1/4 silver plug is on the drain of the reservoir so not sure how much flow it sees. I can remove on the run if need be. Upon doing some research, there is a possibility that it may be algae. What do you think? 
Quote:
[QUOTE]Originally Posted by [B]KaffieneKing[/B] [URL=https://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/107550#post_26526182][IMG alt="View Post"]https://www.overclock.net/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/URL]

@Shweller you will get corrosion with nickel plated parts and silver parts, so I would take that silver plug out if I were you.

Any chance we can get some better photos of the CPU block? How old is the loop?[/QUOTE]


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shweller*
> 
> Only a month old but it has seen some me use as I set up my computer to mine when idle. The g1/4 silver plug is on the drain of the reservoir so not sure how much flow it sees. I can remove on the run if need be. Upon doing some research, there is a possibility that it may be algae. What do you think?


rust coloured "algea" is normally diatom outbreak (legionella's) if your loop is doign that it means you have a serious problem with your coolant

the other option is its iron oxide

the good news is diatom outbreak is treatable with nothing more than a biocide flush and some uv leds wrapped around the reseviour (pointing inwards), the bad news is your rig should be out of action untill you do that and of course legionellas is dangerous to the body and can make you ill with both absorbtion or ingestion it also retains its toxicity in dust form and can make you ill through breathign it in....

the worse news is you somehow have phosphates in the water to provide the algea a food source and a lack of uv light to kill the bacteria off....

if its iron oxide otoh then you have a much bigger problem becasue it means something has iron in it and is suffering a fairly fast acting corrosive effect not to mention your loop is making pockets around the block that let that stuff silt up... which means bad flow rates and poor cooling performance.....

i suspect its algeal bloom (becasue that sticks to any surface no matter how fast the water is moving) which means your entire loop is infected wsith it and needs cleaning with strong biocides so i hope you have some hazmat gear (mask/gloves/gogles at a mimnimum) and enough cash left after the silly season to buy a decent coolant for use going forwads that includes both a biocide and an anti corrosive....

do not break the loop open to do the biocide flush just unplug the mobo from the power and clean it out, chances are algea will be clogging the rads up though so after its all been killed a thourough cleaning will be necessary


----------



## KaffieneKing

Legionella and diatoms are completely different things (as a quick clarification).

Unfortunately you're gonna have to at minimum drain your loop and take apart and clean the CPU block.

Then I would just use proper coolant, it's expensive for water but it's better than buying a new block or worse PC parts.


----------



## Abaidor

Strange...

I have a loop running for the last 8 years with Water For Injection plus PT NUKE (the old one) and never had to take it apart. During the last 2 years I am topping off with RO water and no corrosion or algae.

Everything is copper (2X Old Thermochill Rads cleaned with vinegar and copper blocks).


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Legionella and diatoms are completely different things (as a quick clarification).
> 
> Unfortunately you're gonna have to at minimum drain your loop and take apart and clean the CPU block.
> 
> Then I would just use proper coolant, it's expensive for water but it's better than buying a new block or worse PC parts.


they might be different but you cant get one without the other and the apearance of visible algea in a closed loop that probably never rises above 45degrees c the risk of having the additional problem of legionella should be prominent in the mind for the guy who's loop could infect his entire building with some nasty deadly disease (even if he would need to aeresolise the stuff and make everyone breath it) the danger exists so it must be taken into account.... failure to do so and then the virtually infinitesximaly small chance of infecting someone accidentally becomes a criminal offence becasue he just tipped it into the drain and the building super fixed a leaky pipe in the basement ..... (or similar)

i dont say that to be alarmist i say that becasue i spent 18 months in charge of making sure such risks were managed through simple proceedures like tipping a strong biocide into the tub the water system is tdrained into and waiting 45 minutes before flushing it down the drain (which is perfectly suitable treatment especially when a closed pressure system to effect boiling the liquid isnt an option, closed pressure becasue you cant risk the vapour at lower temps dispersing the disease into the atmosphere)

its a simple thing to fix safely but failure to take those simple steps could result in one or more deaths so whilst it costs a few bucks the peace of mind to do it right is worth the effort to most folks


----------



## KaffieneKing

I'm just going to say that you are wrong they can be found separately (but that's not the point), but yes please do take care when emptying *ANY* loop that doesn't contain bioinhibitors.

Just empty you're loop, remove and replace your silver plugs (just in case it is just that, it can and wil strip the nickel plating off your blocks), clean your block gently with an old tooth brush, then clean the whole loop and use fluid with a corrosion inhibitor and biocide in. Yes you don't *NEED* to, but IMO its not worth the risk of breaking components.


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I'm just going to say that you are wrong they can be found separately (but that's not the point), but yes please do take care when emptying *ANY* loop that doesn't contain bioinhibitors.
> 
> Just empty you're loop, remove and replace your silver plugs (just in case it is just that, it can and wil strip the nickel plating off your blocks), clean your block gently with an old tooth brush, then clean the whole loop and use fluid with a corrosion inhibitor and biocide in. Yes you don't *NEED* to, but IMO its not worth the risk of breaking components.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> they might be different but you cant get one without the other and the apearance of visible algea in a closed loop that probably never rises above 45degrees c the risk of having the additional problem of legionella should be prominent in the mind for the guy who's loop could infect his entire building with some nasty deadly disease (even if he would need to aeresolise the stuff and make everyone breath it) the danger exists so it must be taken into account.... failure to do so and then the virtually infinitesximaly small chance of infecting someone accidentally becomes a criminal offence becasue he just tipped it into the drain and the building super fixed a leaky pipe in the basement ..... (or similar)
> 
> i dont say that to be alarmist i say that becasue i spent 18 months in charge of making sure such risks were managed through simple proceedures like tipping a strong biocide into the tub the water system is tdrained into and waiting 45 minutes before flushing it down the drain (which is perfectly suitable treatment especially when a closed pressure system to effect boiling the liquid isnt an option, closed pressure becasue you cant risk the vapour at lower temps dispersing the disease into the atmosphere)
> 
> its a simple thing to fix safely but failure to take those simple steps could result in one or more deaths so whilst it costs a few bucks the peace of mind to do it right is worth the effort to most folks


That sounds like some pretty serious stuff. Never had an issue with my old set up with just copper and distilled water with the dead water drops. Some as I went nickel plated all the problems started. So will the silver strip the nickel off the block or prevent it? Any recommendation on coolant? Always been a fan of distilled water, in fact ran the same water for over a year with no issues. Disappointed to have issues like so soon with my new set up. What do you recommend for a biocide flush? I do happen to have a pool so I'm sure I can use some of my algae killer for the pool..... Defenetily want to nuke this stuff before opening the loop than I can just soak everything in a bucket with algae killer. I use yellow treat. Will that work?


----------



## nanotm

legionella's needs a food source which is normally algae in closed water systems,

metallic corrosion would create the right conditions for algae bloom in a closed system

any proprietary biocide should be able to kill the stuff i cant really advise on what any particular one will do because different countries ....

as to best coolant i would suggest that any proprietary coolant available from local pc stores would do the job,

best thing to do is by something like vue or mayhems and its associated cleaner stuff to flush your rig through with, that will already contain the necessary inhibitors and biocides to lessen future problems

chances are this was all down to the water you used being impure (a common problem) that coupled with the changes in hardware to mixed metals has all combined to cause this problem....


----------



## Shweller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> legionella's needs a food source which is normally algae in closed water systems,
> 
> metallic corrosion would create the right conditions for algae bloom in a closed system
> 
> any proprietary biocide should be able to kill the stuff i cant really advise on what any particular one will do because different countries ....
> 
> as to best coolant i would suggest that any proprietary coolant available from local pc stores would do the job,
> 
> best thing to do is by something like vue or mayhems and its associated cleaner stuff to flush your rig through with, that will already contain the necessary inhibitors and biocides to lessen future problems
> 
> chances are this was all down to the water you used being impure (a common problem) that coupled with the changes in hardware to mixed metals has all combined to cause this problem....


ok thanks for the help. I am ordering a uv led, and some proper coolant for refill. I will hit with some dead water for the biocide since that's what I have. Thanks for all of the advice. I will soak all my components in an alec idea then flush real good take the block apart etc...


----------



## frostbite

I wouldn't use uv leds they don't always have the right output in the light spectrum,

Either ccfl or a proper fluorescent lamp


----------



## stephenn82

MMRS has some nice little CCFL kits, and reasonable pricing.


----------



## stephenn82

So, why are crossflow rads looked down upon by many users? What is reasoning??

I was thinking about getting this to better enable the loop routing.
http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-ex-series/ex360-crossflow-radiator-v2


----------



## frostbite

Crossflow only work if the inlet is at the bottom, and they only have one pass to cool


----------



## stephenn82

so, if it is a top mounted rad, and dumps into a regular 360 rad (other top outlet feeds into top of a res) you wouldnt seen an issue?

also found this...thanks, google! seems like developments as of late kinda mitigate the argument of why NOT to use one....but all valid points on both sides of the argument.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1396672/single-vs-dual-pass-radiators-cross-flow

So the question comes to mind...what about a triple pass radiator? They have them for vehicles...why not PC yet?


----------



## frostbite

Triple pass like the Watercool rads are restrictive to point

The round cooling pipes are like having extended hoses and are thinner


----------



## stephenn82

single pass is restrictive...triple pass is restrictive...anything other than two it seems is "restrictive"

Even for a D5 pushing through it?


----------



## IT Diva

With the caveat that as long as the coolant temp is at least a few *C above ambient, then the greater percentage of any time frame that a given coolant molecule remains in a rad is the key to thermal transfer

With single pass rads, any molecule of water only spends about half the time in the rad as it would with a dual pass rad of similar size.

Now since the single pass has less restriction, the flow rate should be a little greater, all else remaining equal, so that molecule makes more passes thru the rad, but since there's other restrictions in the loop, it won't be all that close to twice as many passes.

When you have only a single rad and only 1 block, obviously any molecule gets closer to twice as many passes thru the rad per unit of time, so test results for cross-flow rads can show them to be pretty close to their dual pass counterparts in 1 on 1 comparisons.

If you add additional rads in series with a single pass / crossflow rad, especially if adding another block in the loop, you're really hammering away at how fast that molecule moves around the loop and gets back thru the rad again.

For a simple loop with minimal restriction, a crossflow rad works fine, and may make plumbing a little tidier . . .

For a loop with multiple blocks and/or rads, I would stay away from the crossflows and make all the rads dual pass..


----------



## 100cotton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Words


You would have twice as many water channels since the single pass can use them all at once, it should effectively have half the flow rate inside the channels. This would mean the time a molecule is in the rad would be more or less the same between any number of passes for similar sized radiators.

I'm just thinking back to my engineering courses and this is what makes sense to me.


----------



## stephenn82

so one CPU block, one GPU block, and two rads on a d5 with minimal tubing wouldnt be an issue?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *100cotton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Words
> 
> 
> 
> You would have twice as many water channels since the single pass can use them all at once, it should effectively have half the flow rate inside the channels. This would mean the time a molecule is in the rad would be more or less the same between any number of passes for similar sized radiators.
> 
> I'm just thinking back to my engineering courses and this is what makes sense to me.
Click to expand...

If the rad was the only thing in the loop, this would be the case, but as you add more and more to the loop, this becomes less and less the case, as you also bring in the possibility of having the flow go laminar.

While you'd have half the flow rate with twice the number of channels, the lower overall restriction would increase the overall flow rate so that half of the new rate would be more than before.

While the difference may not be appreciable, it's always interesting how changing any one variable always impacts all the others.


----------



## Hello Man

Anyone found a cool hardline config for the 800D with only one GPU? I just can't seem to find one thats very pleasing.


----------



## Yukss




----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The normal thing would be to use 90* "extenders" and fit a compression fitting to that, but there are plenty of companies making direct 90* compression fittings as well. When in doubt though Bitspower has the largest selection of fittings as far as I know, so here is one in ID 3/8" OD 1/2".
> 
> It doesn't take that much effort to find something that fits what you want so just look in the stores that you are considering buying from.


Right I gotcha, so just a 90 degree elbow and thread in the compression fittings. Im using XSPC fittings, so ill just order a pack of their black chrome 90s and another pack of the soft tube compression fittings.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> Right I gotcha, so just a 90 degree elbow and thread in the compression fittings. Im using XSPC fittings, so ill just order a pack of their black chrome 90s and another pack of the soft tube compression fittings.


It's always handy to have a few 90* and 45* fittings and straight extenders on hand so that you can deal with more complicated positions. I have a bunch of Feser 45* and 90* that I bought on sale since they don't seem that popular of a brand any more, it's helped me out with a lot of problematic runs.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey guys

So after redoing the loop and powering on the pump ... I had liquid leak out of every direction from the block I was given ...

Now I need to order something new, anyone know if PPCs is open for the year? ... Having a hard time getting a hold of them with the TZ difference. Also, apart from OCN55, are there any festive codes that are still available ?


----------



## shadowsun

hello here, did someone have a white or orange led insert for alphacool eisblock? i just want the plate, so i not gonna buy a full custom kit


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *100cotton*
> 
> You would have twice as many water channels since the single pass can use them all at once, it should effectively have half the flow rate inside the channels. This would mean the time a molecule is in the rad would be more or less the same between any number of passes for similar sized radiators.
> 
> I'm just thinking back to my engineering courses and this is what makes sense to me.


It will also introduce laminar flow conditions, not ideal for heat exchangers. You want to keep flow rate up with controlled restriction that has a turbulence effect.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If the rad was the only thing in the loop, this would be the case, but as you add more and more to the loop, this becomes less and less the case, as you also bring in the possibility of having the flow go laminar.
> 
> While you'd have half the flow rate with twice the number of channels, the lower overall restriction would increase the overall flow rate so that half of the new rate would be more than before.
> 
> While the difference may not be appreciable, it's always interesting how changing any one variable always impacts all the others.


This.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Need some help on this one guys . . . .
> 
> Does anyone know anything about this build or have any links?
> 
> I'm really starting to like the TriStellar, especially after Sebastian's incredible build, and this acrylic modded, turned-on-end concept is really unique and right along the idea that I had in my mind's eye.


This build was made by a friend of mine (Timpelay) here in Sweden, called "Iris". Can't find a thread/project log for it though...

https://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/14285-iris
https://ocaholic.ch/modules/news/article.php?storyid=16784

He uses the same name on Instagram and Facebook as well


----------



## smokedog3000

That Tristellar is an amazing build !!

Here is my crimbo project , change the tubing on a EK predator 360 to hard tubing PETG
First time trying hard tubing ,i found it tough enough it get a feel for it at the start , but once i wrecked two lengths of tube i was in the zone !! ha ha


----------



## frostbite

That's nice, why did you go hard tube to the external rad?


----------



## smokedog3000

Thanks, it seemed the only way as I wanted to have the hard tube leave out the back of the case ,what other way would you have done it?


----------



## frostbite

I have my self an external rad, from the expansion slot run soft tube so I can move the rig if I
have to.

If I was in you boots, Id have rigid inernal to bulkhead pass throughs then soft tube to the rad


----------



## smokedog3000

Ah that's good thinking ,yeah I made 2 brackets to hold the rad in position everything ridged !!! May change that thanks !!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I have my self an external rad, from the expansion slot run soft tube so I can move the rig if I
> have to.
> 
> If I was in you boots, Id have rigid inernal to bulkhead pass throughs then soft tube to the rad


https://imageshack.com/i/poX2dGLPj

I done that myself a while ago, worked well.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I have my self an external rad, from the expansion slot run soft tube so I can move the rig if I
> have to.
> 
> If I was in you boots, Id have rigid inernal to bulkhead pass throughs then soft tube to the rad


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokedog3000*
> 
> Ah that's good thinking ,yeah I made 2 brackets to hold the rad in position everything ridged !!! May change that thanks !!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I have my self an external rad, from the expansion slot run soft tube so I can move the rig if I
> have to.
> 
> If I was in you boots, Id have rigid inernal to bulkhead pass throughs then soft tube to the rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/poX2dGLPj
> 
> 
> 
> I done that myself a while ago, worked well.
Click to expand...

It's hard to beat using pass-thrus on the back panel to transition from hard tube inside to soft tube for external rads or chillers.

I use bulkhead QD's so it's easy enough to disconnect the PC to manage the maintenance:



If you have to put them in a mesh or other area that's not well supported, you can add some stability with a reinforcing plate:


----------



## Spawne32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> It's always handy to have a few 90* and 45* fittings and straight extenders on hand so that you can deal with more complicated positions. I have a bunch of Feser 45* and 90* that I bought on sale since they don't seem that popular of a brand any more, it's helped me out with a lot of problematic runs.


This is going into a rajintek metis so its pretty small runs to a single really thick 120mm radiator. My only concerns really lie in the graphics card cooling because my particular metis i chose does not have the top vents, and there seems to be no water blocks that will work with the RX 480 MSI armor oc 4gb edition card that provide any sort of decent vram support. Quite a pickle here.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Does anyone know if the EK SPC-60 PWM Pump included in the EK Predator/Phoenix line is any good ? Looks smilar to a DDC Pump but just smaller?

I'm planning on doing a simple loop with the Ek Phoenix 280 Rad/Pump Combo and removing the including lines for my own with a Full Nickle Supremacy Evo cpu block.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## smokedog3000

Well I've had my predator 360 for just over 2 years now and no problems, cooling a 6700k @ 5ghz v1.5 and titan XP ,temps CPU gaming all cores under 70c gpu 41c !!!


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's hard to beat using pass-thrus on the back panel to transition from hard tube inside to soft tube for external rads or chillers.
> 
> I use bulkhead QD's so it's easy enough to disconnect the PC to manage the maintenance:
> 
> 
> 
> If you have to put them in a mesh or other area that's not well supported, you can add some stability with a reinforcing plate:


+1

I use the alphacool panama pass through I/O bracket,
Acetal G3/8 to 1/2" barb


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/poX2dGLPj
> 
> 
> 
> I done that myself a while ago, worked well.


Everything else looks great and clean. Just be careful about the power load on that 1080 Ti, because there have been cable burnouts using that split connector.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Everything else looks great and clean. Just be careful about the power load on that 1080 Ti, because there have been cable burnouts using that split connector.


i didn't know that,it's an actual psu cable and not a splitter.



Fractal r6 came today with some wc bits, 2x360 XSPC rads in there just now just trying to figure out how i'm going to do it.


----------



## dave040

Build: The Abyss
CPU: i7 7700k
GPU: Asus strix 1080TI EKWB fullcover + backplate
RAM: G-Skill trident Z 3000mhz OC
MOBO: Z270G
CASE: Fractal design meshify TG
PSU: Bitfenix whisper 750w
Fans: x3 Thermal take riing 120 Blue (800RPM) + x2 120mm Be quiet shadow wings 2000 RPM (set to 800rpm)
Other: Fittings 12/10, pump, res, HDC tubes, x2 240 mm radiators (copper) from EKWB.




Build: In cold blood
(Coming soon)


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> i didn't know that,it's an actual psu cable and not a splitter.
> 
> 
> 
> Fractal r6 came today with some wc bits, 2x360 XSPC rads in there just now just trying to figure out how i'm going to do it.


Been waiting for R6 Blackout to become available, can't wait to see you build in it


----------



## khemist

I've just got one RX360 rad installed just now in the front, will post a pic shortly.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just watched a video about the R6, love what FD has done with this one (if the R6 was out when I order my Enthoo Pro M SE, I would've bought the R6)

finally decided to try a Acrylic topped Supremacy and EK GPU block,


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/

I'll get some better pics when i'm finished and there is better light, going to test the temps with one rad now.

Going to switch out the m.2 heatsink for the Silver again, also i had to use a Black Bitspower 90 fitting out the pump because the monsoon res top threads didn't like my Silver ones for some reason.

Also i ran out of tubing so i had to use a Black extender fitting, will get the smaller things sorted and the lighting.

Also i'll be adding a 140 redux fan at the rear since i like the colour of them.


----------



## Futan

I think putting the T-fitting above the res horizontally may have been a bit of a mistake but overall pretty happy with how it turned out. I also should've taken out the grommets before mounting the res. May have stripped not 1, but 2 screw holes trying to mount it.







Also would've been able to better align the tubing going to and from the res without the grommets.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pn6uFmTwj



Better pic of my R6 as it sits currently.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hello Man*
> 
> Anyone found a cool hardline config for the 800D with only one GPU? I just can't seem to find one thats very pleasing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pn6uFmTwj
> 
> 
> 
> Better pic of my R6 as it sits currently.


SIgh i want that case and I have no need or reason for it lol.


----------



## khemist

I'm really loving it, and the huge glass window looks great, feels very premium.


----------



## Ceadderman

Really like this last build. Looks nice and tidy.









That HeatKiller IV









Proof that designs are still on the table for anything. So well yeah yknow my thoughts on theives... so i won't dive into that again. Apparently my opinion on that nonsense is invalid due to my high moral stndards. Se les vie.









~Ceadder


----------



## Excession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pn6uFmTwj
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better pic of my R6 as it sits currently.


God that looks nice. The Define R6 looks sooooooo close to perfect, but it's just not quite enough to make me swap cases...


----------



## pc-illiterate

No, your opinion is invalid because you are the only person who cares about your opinion. It would be different if you/it/the issue mattered. I want to see you have an original idea. I want to see you complain and boycott the film and television and music industries. Who stole your barbie when you were little? Just be mad at them instead of the world.

When are you going to finish this mad case mode anyway? It's been what, 4 years? Can't think of something original to do to it?


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

First timer! Go easy on me!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*
> 
> First timer! Go easy on me!


X58... nice


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> X58... nice


Lol, thanks! I was too afraid to try water cooling with a new build. I figured if things went wrong. Then I needed to upgrade anyway lol


----------



## Yukss

some decent pictures


----------



## dicom

very nice build


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> some decent pictures
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


To me, the res looks too short and stubby next to the 560, and the fustercluck of fittings at the top of the mobo to the hardline to the rad look really out of place with all the nice bends.

I'd replace that gaggle of fittings with some nice clean bends, go to at least a 300mm res tube, and it'll be about as good as it can get with what you have to work with.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To me, the res looks too short and stubby next to the 560, and the fustercluck of fittings at the top of the mobo to the hardline to the rad look really out of place with all the nice bends.
> 
> I'd replace that gaggle of fittings with some nice clean bends, go to at least a 300mm res tube, and it'll be about as good as it can get with what you have to work with.


thanks for your reply, i agree with the fitting of the motherboard wb to the radiator, i ran out of petg and i have to make it work, i might replace in the near future, also, the r es is actually 400 ml 60mm diameter, yes, it look short but what happend is that the radiator is massive..









here is a pic of the inside


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To me, the res looks too short and stubby next to the 560, and the fustercluck of fittings at the top of the mobo to the hardline to the rad look really out of place with all the nice bends.
> 
> I'd replace that gaggle of fittings with some nice clean bends, go to at least a 300mm res tube, and it'll be about as good as it can get with what you have to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for your reply, i agree with the fitting of the motherboard wb to the radiator, i ran out of petg and i have to make it work, i might replace in the near future, also, the r es is actually 400 ml 60mm diameter, yes, it look short but what happend is that the radiator is massive..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is a pic of the inside
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

The rad is huge, I agree, but all the more reason to go with a taller res.

Be careful about conflating volume, ml, with tube length, mm.

The P5 easily accommodates a 400mm tube length with a pump below.

By way of comparison, in the pic of the dual cascading res setup below, the rear res is 400mm while the one in front is 300mm:


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Quick question for the H20 guru's here:

Is there a mono block option that will work on an Asus Z170 Pro Aura Mobo? Am gearing up to redesign my loop in a new case, would prefer to keep everything EK but open to suggestions..

thanks in advance:


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The rad is huge, I agree, but all the more reason to go with a taller res.
> 
> Be careful about conflating volume, ml, with tube length, mm.
> 
> The P5 easily accommodates a 400mm tube length with a pump below.
> 
> By way of comparison, in the pic of the dual cascading res setup below, the rear res is 400mm while the one in front is 300mm:


nice build, the thing is that my respump combo is one piece attached together, i have spares pumps and a taller res, just in case this enermax neochanger 400ml fails i might replace it with a taller res.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The rad is huge, I agree, but all the more reason to go with a taller res.
> 
> Be careful about conflating volume, ml, with tube length, mm.
> 
> The P5 easily accommodates a 400mm tube length with a pump below.
> 
> By way of comparison, in the pic of the dual cascading res setup below, the rear res is 400mm while the one in front is 300mm:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice build, the thing is that my respump combo is one piece attached together, i have spares pumps and a taller res, just in case this enermax neochanger 400ml fails i might replace it with a taller res.
Click to expand...

Agree, the downside to integrated systems is that while saving space, they can limit options and flexibility.

Not hoping your Enermax fails, but I'd like to see a tall res in comparison . . .


----------



## MNMadman

Shopping list for just the liquid cooling parts of my new build coming next month...



Most likely going to be a Threadripper system in a Define R6. Not final though.

Plus they're out of my preferred tubing, so the total would be higher than that.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> God that looks nice. The Define R6 looks sooooooo close to perfect, but it's just not quite enough to make me swap cases...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> No, your opinion is invalid because you are the only person who cares about your opinion. It would be different if you/it/the issue mattered. I want to see you have an original idea. I want to see you complain and boycott the film and television and music industries. Who stole your barbie when you were little? Just be mad at them instead of the world.
> 
> When are you going to finish this mad case mode anyway? It's been what, 4 years? Can't think of something original to do to it?


I'd say personall oppnion is most improtant because the build is for your self and you yourself using it










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokedog3000*
> 
> That Tristellar is an amazing build !!
> 
> Here is my crimbo project , change the tubing on a EK predator 360 to hard tubing PETG
> First time trying hard tubing ,i found it tough enough it get a feel for it at the start , but once i wrecked two lengths of tube i was in the zone !! ha ha






Neat build, nice little spiral in the tube. Temp meter neatly installed inside the case. Beautifull


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With the caveat that as long as the coolant temp is at least a few *C above ambient, then the greater percentage of any time frame that a given coolant molecule remains in a rad is the key to thermal transfer
> 
> With single pass rads, any molecule of water only spends about half the time in the rad as it would with a dual pass rad of similar size.
> 
> Now since the single pass has less restriction, the flow rate should be a little greater, all else remaining equal, so that molecule makes more passes thru the rad, but since there's other restrictions in the loop, it won't be all that close to twice as many passes.
> 
> When you have only a single rad and only 1 block, obviously any molecule gets closer to twice as many passes thru the rad per unit of time, so test results for cross-flow rads can show them to be pretty close to their dual pass counterparts in 1 on 1 comparisons.
> 
> If you add additional rads in series with a single pass / crossflow rad, especially if adding another block in the loop, you're really hammering away at how fast that molecule moves around the loop and gets back thru the rad again.
> 
> For a simple loop with minimal restriction, a crossflow rad works fine, and may make plumbing a little tidier . . .
> 
> For a loop with multiple blocks and/or rads, I would stay away from the crossflows and make all the rads dual pass..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *100cotton*
> 
> You would have twice as many water channels since the single pass can use them all at once, it should effectively have half the flow rate inside the channels. This would mean the time a molecule is in the rad would be more or less the same between any number of passes for similar sized radiators.
> 
> I'm just thinking back to my engineering courses and this is what makes sense to me.


Given two rads of the same model with one being dual pass and one being cross flow, with the same system flow rate the coolant spends the same exact time in the rads.

The flow rate through each individual tube of the rad is halved in the crossflow because twice as many are used but that halving and doubling produces the same result.

Its better to think in terms of volume. The two rads have essentially the same volume so at the same system flow rate fluid transfers through that volume over the same time period. At a 4lpm system flow rate a 500ml volume rad is passed through in 7.5 seconds, no matter how many passes.

Given that rads are usually one of the lowest restriction components of a loop their impact on system flow is relatively minor so the system flow with crossflow is normally not very different to dual pass.

Some manufacturers have made claims with regard to multi-pass keeping the fluid in the rad for longer to cool better but it remains impossible unless the volume of the rad or the system flow rate changes. So, while a high restriction multiple pass rad will keep the coolant in the rad longer by lowering system flow rate that isn't what they are suggesting and isn't good for better system efficiency. Indeed a multi-pass rad will necessarily have a very slightly lower volume because of the dividing plates in the end tanks so in reality they hold the coolant for less time.
The reason dual pass rads work a little better than single pass is more complex than just simple exposure timing.


----------



## Streetdragon

so after a long time i played a game that is a bit more demanding than browsing web/netflix/youtube.
my watertemp went 7° over air intake and now im a bit "pissed".. i realy thought that my temp would top around 4° over air with 2x480 and 2x 240 rad space. My D5 pump sits around 3400RPM. Waterflow is ok so far. dont havea flowmeter or so, but what i can see in the res is good
Maybe i have to remove the dust filter on the top, because the rad + filter iss to much for the fans. dont realy wanna go push+pull because fans are expensive...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I don't like open frame/non box-like computer cases. All I see is a constant dust problem.

TCO


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The rad is huge, I agree, but all the more reason to go with a taller res.
> 
> Be careful about conflating volume, ml, with tube length, mm.
> 
> The P5 easily accommodates a 400mm tube length with a pump below.
> 
> By way of comparison, in the pic of the dual cascading res setup below, the rear res is 400mm while the one in front is 300mm:


Hi,
First time I've seem someone else using enermax fans


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> First time I've seem someone else using enermax fans


Welcome to the Forum









TCO


----------



## pc-illiterate

It's about his incessant whining and crying that so many are thieves because their product looks like someone else's product. He whines every time someone posts something about Barrows and, understandably, about ThermalTake. While many of us take advantage of the lower price of a quality product, he whines they're cheap and inferior because they're cheap. The best part is, I don't see either company winning or losing anything from him and his $20 per year purchases from Bitspower.
He can of course do what he likes with his money but should keep his opinion in his head since everyone has heard him crying "Bad Chinese" since Barrow got popular with budget builders. He insists he's on higher ground because he insists he's on higher ground.

It's not a personal opinion thing.


----------



## KCDC

I'm finally pulling the trigger on everything for glass tubing. Mayhems 12mm tubing and phanteks 12mm rigid fittings.

I know that I need a tool to scribe the glass, then snap it, wearing protection of course, and sand edges.

To save me search time, could anyone recommend a decent scoring tool that will work without falling apart? I get mixed reviews on the only one on Amazon. Any help would be most awesome. And then I hand sand it so as not to chip it, wish I could just use the dremel. I'm also reading that emery cloth is preferred?

I know I could get the best answer here, so I thank y'all in advance. Quite excited for my first rigid tube layout!

Also, any techniques that could save me some time would be helpful. Please note, I don't plan to use a torch for the ends. I know that was in here somewhere way back in the thread. Sounds fun, but not on my first build.

Another question: What would be the shortest run of tubing I could safely snap? I may have a few short runs, might need PETG if I can't break off short enough pieces.

EDIT: had some amazon links, but realizing Home Depot has what I think will work:

These are at my home depot, I think I will go with these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-Glass-Tile-Nipper-Contoured-Handles-with-Cushion-Grip-32010Q/202205643

Also at my home depot, a pack of multiple grit emery paper:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-3-66-in-x-9-in-Coarse-Medium-and-Fine-Grit-Emery-Cloth-Sandpaper-3-Sheets-Pack-5931ES/100562118

I have goggles, I'll get the gloves as well. Those should be what I need, yes?


----------



## Freakn

Suggest no more talk full stop about Barrows being a cheap knock off and poor quality or Thermaltake being a copy cat unless something new comes out.

Can we just let all that go - sure have your opinions but keep them to yourself or PM


----------



## stephenn82

This...right there /\ /\

please...PM your opinionated H&D towards each other. We love our pictures and great content. Please, dont ruin it for the rest of us.


----------



## Hefner

Barrows is NOT an outright rip off though, argue all you want. That statement is simply incorrect.


----------



## Streetdragon

OOOKKKKKK we got it!

Back to Topic:

did anyone build a "cage dustfilter" that can be "mounted" on top of the inlet fans? shoebox with dustfilters as walls?
So the airflow is better then direct dustfilters


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> OOOKKKKKK we got it!
> 
> Back to Topic:
> 
> did anyone build a "cage dustfilter" that can be "mounted" on top of the inlet fans? shoebox with dustfilters as walls?
> So the airflow is better then direct dustfilters


pics, or it didnt happen









Kidding, so what are you talking about? This sounds interesting. Any pics to aid the visual learner here?


----------



## Streetdragon

something like that. So you got the dust filter WIHTOUT any high Air resistance. Sure it wont look good, but for cooling and reducing dirt in the rig......


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I made some filters for the front
Started out with actual ac filter but now I'm using an old speaker screen a lot tighter web than the screen on case filters and speaker material is more free flowing
Works pretty good

For the top I haven't cut out anything so I can lay the filter material on top of the case and set the case screen on top.
These images show the ac filter material
The speaker material is brown
Some aluminum grid from a local home depot that keeps the material from getting sucked into the fans


----------



## Streetdragon

Yeah the Core X9 has some magnetic filter but there is still the problem, that the area for the air is to small.

Either the resistance is to high or the filter is to rough and the dirt comes in the cage.

I think i will build something out of angeld metal and nylon......


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Barrows is NOT an outright rip off though, argue all you want. That statement is simply incorrect.


Actually,when they started,they were a complete rip off. Not so much the case now as it is with all copy companies. They tend to find their own way after they have learnt how to do things.
Its not uncommon,Honda and lot of the automakers from that region started the same way.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Yeah the Core X9 has some magnetic filter but there is still the problem, that the area for the air is to small.
> 
> Either the resistance is to high or the filter is to rough and the dirt comes in the cage.
> 
> I think i will build something out of angeld metal and nylon......


The dust filter in X9 is good enough , i didnt have dust problems when i had that case . Just be sure u have positive pressure inside , so the dust wont be sucked in at non filtered parts (pci covers /cracks etc)
I had 10 fan in system
2*20cm CM Megaflow intake on side
2*14cm BQ PW2 on front intake
and
3*12cm Akasa Apache + 3x 12cm Lepa Bol quiet fans on radiators as exhaust on the top


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*


I would consider this case if it fit an xl mb. Since it doesn't, I've been eyeing the W100. The only difference between it and my current modded case is i had to mod for the front 360 and mod and buy a lian li psu extender so my new psu could occupy a bit less space than the old and not limit the room for my bottom 240.


----------



## SavantStrike

So here's one I just completed. No hard line, but the tubing looks pretty clean IMO (though it would be prettier if I used compression fittings)



This is the first build in a while that's caused me to bleed. The flow bridge jumped while I was drilling the side outlet on the drill press. The side outlet did the trick though! I fit a card in the third slot.

This build has heartbreak involved though - I've had a lot if trouble with the Vega 64's you see here.


----------



## KaffieneKing

@SavantStrike nice build, I for one like soft tubing look if don't properly, maybe next time go straight from front rad to your response to remove excess tubing? Great build though!


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @SavantStrike nice build, I for one like soft tubing look if don't properly, maybe next time go straight from front rad to your response to remove excess tubing? Great build though!


Thanks! I've got this build and two quad SLI builds to write build logs for when I get the time.

The tubing in the front is a bit busy - I decided to go from the top rad to the CPU block as it saved on tubing, but it does make the tubes cross which looks a bit unattractive.

The acrylic flow bridge on the bottom was my first time drilling and tapping acrylic for a loop so I'm on the lookout now for other things to tap now that I own the tools.


----------



## IT Diva

Lookie what followed me home from the post office,

Looks like the next build will be starting sooner than I thought . . . .











It's quite a lot bigger than I expected, and the charcoal gray metallic finish may just stay, while the interior bits will all get the usual Diva white paintjob. . . . . Pretty much depends on how the color looks with different, more natural lighting as the flash really accentuates the metallic.

I'll be taking some inspiration from this build to try to come out with a tri-winged cityscape:







Darlene


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Lookie what followed me home from the post office,
> 
> Looks like the next build will be starting soon . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite a lot bigger than I expected, and the charcoal gray metallic finish may just stay, while the interior bits will all get the usual Diva white paintjob. . . . . Pretty much depends on how the color looks with different, more natural lighting as the flash really accentuates the metallic.


eBay find? It'll be interesting to see what you can do with it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Lookie what followed me home from the post office,
> 
> Looks like the next build will be starting soon . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite a lot bigger than I expected, and the charcoal gray metallic finish may just stay, while the interior bits will all get the usual Diva white paintjob. . . . . Pretty much depends on how the color looks with different, more natural lighting as the flash really accentuates the metallic.
> 
> 
> 
> eBay find? It'll be interesting to see what you can do with it.
Click to expand...

Available on Amazon, strangely enough . .

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X50XI42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Lookie what followed me home from the post office,
> 
> Looks like the next build will be starting sooner than I thought . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite a lot bigger than I expected, and the charcoal gray metallic finish may just stay, while the interior bits will all get the usual Diva white paintjob. . . . . Pretty much depends on how the color looks with different, more natural lighting as the flash really accentuates the metallic.
> 
> I'll be taking some inspiration from this build to try to come out with a tri-winged cityscape:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Ooooo, me can't wait to see what you do with that case.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> The dust filter in X9 is good enough , i didnt have dust problems when i had that case . Just be sure u have positive pressure inside , so the dust wont be sucked in at non filtered parts (pci covers /cracks etc)
> I had 10 fan in system
> 2*20cm CM Megaflow intake on side
> 2*14cm BQ PW2 on front intake
> and
> 3*12cm Akasa Apache + 3x 12cm Lepa Bol quiet fans on radiators as exhaust on the top
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i know the filter is not bad, but with the filter my watertemp is 7° over air
Without it is "only" 5° over air with same fanspeed. and i already cleaned everything


----------



## frostbite

Here's a question for all you ridged users

What happens if need to remove a component that is either blocked by or uses the tube?

Is it a full system drain, switch out the dud and refill


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Here's a question for all you ridged users
> 
> What happens if need to remove a component that is either blocked by or uses the tube?
> 
> Is it a full system drain, switch out the dud and refill


In short,Yes.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Here's a question for all you ridged users
> 
> What happens if need to remove a component that is either blocked by or uses the tube?
> 
> Is it a full system drain, switch out the dud and refill


I love the look of hard line.... but when hardware upgrade comes..... soft tube motherboard upgrade without loop disassembly job done in a few hours







fugly universal GPU blocks I can live with knowing what the actual gains are with full cover blocks though I am not a perfectionist like some.
also other shortcuts CPU block I cut a slit to replace the white with black cover and also took out the 24v PSU
Planning on another 1080ti in the near future hence the 1000w PSU
happy with 5Ghz CPU 8600k and 1080ti @ 2050Mhz 24/7


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Finally got my new toy


----------



## kevindd992002

Are fittings installed last when all watercooling components are already in the case?

I know I've read somewhere that it's best to dip fittinga in distilled water while you're working on assembling the loop so that the o-rings become lubricated, or somewhere along those lines, especially for angled fittings. Is this true?


----------



## frostbite

Not any help but I dip the soft tube in boiling water
so it can bent into shape and get clamped down to hold it into position


----------



## dwolvin

It can't hurt to get a drop or two of water on the O-rings when assembling, but I have to admit I generally don't. Just hand tighten, don't take a wrench to the fittings or you will break stuff.


----------



## MNMadman

I've never lubed o-rings at all and had no problems, but then again the longest I've had a liquid-cooled system was about 26 months.

I've also never had to heat up the tubing to go over fittings. The PrimoChill Advanced LRT tubing has always been perfect for a tight fit without being too tight.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are fittings installed last when all watercooling components are already in the case?
> 
> I know I've read somewhere that it's best to dip fittinga in distilled water while you're working on assembling the loop so that the o-rings become lubricated, or somewhere along those lines, especially for angled fittings. Is this true?


I usually install as many fittings as possible while the parts are outside the case - hand tight then 1/8 turn with a wrench.

Difficult connections I use silicone grease on, but water would probably work just as well.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Lookie what followed me home from the post office,
> 
> Looks like the next build will be starting sooner than I thought . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite a lot bigger than I expected, and the charcoal gray metallic finish may just stay, *while the interior bits will all get the usual Diva white paintjob*. . . . . Pretty much depends on how the color looks with different, more natural lighting as the flash really accentuates the metallic.
> 
> I'll be taking some inspiration from this build to try to come out with a tri-winged cityscape:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I envision acrylic windows, leds, passthroughs, white white white and a pinch of glamour - keep those builds coming!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Lookie what followed me home from the post office,
> 
> Looks like the next build will be starting sooner than I thought . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite a lot bigger than I expected, and the charcoal gray metallic finish may just stay, while the interior bits will all get the usual Diva white paintjob. . . . . Pretty much depends on how the color looks with different, more natural lighting as the flash really accentuates the metallic.
> 
> I'll be taking some inspiration from this build to try to come out with a tri-winged cityscape:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


The Tri-Winged Cityscape plan is a great idea for that case.

But how will you incorporate the disco dance floors in those narrow sections?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Lookie what followed me home from the post office,
> 
> Looks like the next build will be starting sooner than I thought . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite a lot bigger than I expected, and the charcoal gray metallic finish may just stay, *while the interior bits will all get the usual Diva white paintjob*. . . . . Pretty much depends on how the color looks with different, more natural lighting as the flash really accentuates the metallic.
> 
> I'll be taking some inspiration from this build to try to come out with a tri-winged cityscape:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I envision acrylic windows, leds, passthroughs, white white white and a pinch of glamour - keep those builds coming!
Click to expand...

You must be Claire voyant; . . . I also envision many of those things as well as a few others . . .









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Lookie what followed me home from the post office,
> 
> Looks like the next build will be starting sooner than I thought . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite a lot bigger than I expected, and the charcoal gray metallic finish may just stay, while the interior bits will all get the usual Diva white paintjob. . . . . Pretty much depends on how the color looks with different, more natural lighting as the flash really accentuates the metallic.
> 
> I'll be taking some inspiration from this build to try to come out with a tri-winged cityscape:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> The Tri-Winged Cityscape plan is a great idea for that case.
> 
> But how will you incorporate the disco dance floors in those narrow sections?
Click to expand...











Custom made, edge lighted, pump integrated, clear acrylic reservoirs on the full front facing surface of the PSU and mobo modules just might do it.
The GPU module will get a full wrap around window and clear light panel on the back side of the GPU.

In an effort to step up my game a bit, and be able to do more in the custom made area, I just pulled the trigger on a new CNC:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Axis-6040-CNC-Router-Engraver-2-2KW-VFD-Engraving-Drill-Cutting-Carving-Machine-/391928329043?hash=item5b40bfb353



Should be here a little before my birthday, middle of next month, as it ships from the states, not China.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You must be Claire voyant; . . . I also envision many of those things as well as a few others . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom made, edge lighted, pump integrated, clear acrylic reservoirs on the full front facing surface of the PSU and mobo modules just might do it.
> The GPU module will get a full wrap around window and clear light panel on the back side of the GPU.
> 
> In an effort to step up my game a bit, and be able to do more in the custom made area, I just pulled the trigger on a new CNC:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Axis-6040-CNC-Router-Engraver-2-2KW-VFD-Engraving-Drill-Cutting-Carving-Machine-/391928329043?hash=item5b40bfb353
> 
> 
> 
> Should be here a little before my birthday, middle of next month, as it ships from the states, not China.


I can help you with this gadget.

First thing you need to do is square the machine. I guarantee that it wont be square. Ratchet straps are handy for this process.
Buy a decent engineers square for the Z axis.
If you want to make your life easy,line the bed with a hard plastic and tram the crap out of it with the largest end mill you can get in your spindle.


----------



## IT Diva

You'll be one of the first folks I get in contact with once it gets here, you can bet on that . . . .










What software do you use with the Shapeoko, or have you outgrown that machine by now?

Mine uses Mach3.


----------



## dave040

In progress :0)


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Custom made, edge lighted, pump integrated, clear acrylic reservoirs on the full front facing surface of the PSU and mobo modules just might do it.
> The GPU module will get a full wrap around window and clear light panel on the back side of the GPU.
> 
> In an effort to step up my game a bit, and be able to do more in the custom made area, I just pulled the trigger on a new CNC:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Axis-6040-CNC-Router-Engraver-2-2KW-VFD-Engraving-Drill-Cutting-Carving-Machine-/391928329043?hash=item5b40bfb353
> 
> 
> 
> Should be here a little before my birthday, middle of next month, as it ships from the states, not China.


Somehow I knew there would be an appropriate plan for the case lighting, and as usual, there was.

The CNC threw me for a loop though!
I am most impressed.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Custom made, edge lighted, pump integrated, clear acrylic reservoirs on the full front facing surface of the PSU and mobo modules just might do it.
> The GPU module will get a full wrap around window and clear light panel on the back side of the GPU.
> 
> In an effort to step up my game a bit, and be able to do more in the custom made area, I just pulled the trigger on a new CNC:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Axis-6040-CNC-Router-Engraver-2-2KW-VFD-Engraving-Drill-Cutting-Carving-Machine-/391928329043?hash=item5b40bfb353
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be here a little before my birthday, middle of next month, as it ships from the states, not China.


Drools, maybe someday I can afford one of those CNC machines.
Can't wait to see what you make with that nice piece of machinery.


----------



## IT Diva

I expect it'll be a pretty steep learning curve, . . . . so pretty simple little bits at first, . . .

and since I don't know of any other CNC's on the island, I'm not going to have anyone to go to for hands-on help.

Looks like a lot of YouTube University and good old trial and error until I learn enough to know what to even ask . .


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I expect it'll be a pretty steep learning curve, . . . . so pretty simple little bits at first, . . .
> 
> and since I don't know of any other CNC's on the island, I'm not going to have anyone to go to for hands-on help.
> 
> Looks like a lot of YouTube University and good old trial and error until I learn enough to know what to even ask . .


If that's going to be the only CNC on the island, then I think you know what you need to do...

I mean do you really want to live on an island with only one CNC machine?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's quite a lot bigger than I expected,
> 
> Darlene


That's what she said....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'll be one of the first folks I get in contact with once it gets here, you can bet on that . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What software do you use with the Shapeoko, or have you outgrown that machine by now?
> 
> Mine uses Mach3.


My workflow is Solidworks for the CAD then I use the HSM plug in for Solidworks to set the pathing and generate the Gcode.
HSM can produce all sorts of Gcode so it should/will work with your machine.

The shapeoko is more than enough for what I need at home,if I need something bigger then I can use a Bridgeport I have access to.
For Alu and plastics,the Shapeoko is plenty powerful and accurate too. The only complaint I have with my machine is its sensitive to EMI but I have spent a while shielding all the cabling,particularly the USB as it is REALLY sensitive and crashes the connection. Serial is much better for this but its outdated...


----------



## chibi

Liking this horizontal mounted system board. I delided the cpu and put some liquid metal on so no fear of overrun!








Kind of reminds me of a tank with dual turrets on the sides, lol.


----------



## mouacyk

interesting -- isn't that practically a test bench?


----------



## Kimir

It is, but with hardline in his case.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> interesting -- isn't that practically a test bench?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It is, but with hardline in his case.


Haha yep! It's the Dimastech EasyXL bench and it works perfectly fine as a case with hardline too if I may add


----------



## Kimir

It's the XL, that's why it seems bigger than my v3; because it is!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Project Gray Scale is coming together finally:


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Project Gray Scale is coming together finally:


Looks so spacious lol. I thought you would cram it.


----------



## dicom

It looks excellent


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was worried about the res when I was mounting up the fans but it barely cleared, and surprised I can still access the fill port in the top of the res.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Liking this horizontal mounted system board. I delided the cpu and put some liquid metal on so no fear of overrun!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of reminds me of a tank with dual turrets on the sides, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for reminding me of DimasTech benches! I had seen them a while ago and liked them, but forgot about them.

I was considering the Fractal Design Define R6 or PrimoChill Praxis WetBench for my new build, but neither one can do two 360 rads. Plus I like the flexible fan mounts.

Mine won't look quite like yours as it'll have soft tubing, but I think the EasyV3 matches well with what I want to do. Might step up to the EasyXL though.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Thanks for reminding me of DimasTech benches! I had seen them a while ago and liked them, but forgot about them.
> 
> I was considering the Fractal Design Define R6 or PrimoChill Praxis WetBench for my new build, but neither one can do two 360 rads. Plus I like the flexible fan mounts.
> 
> Mine won't look quite like yours as it'll have soft tubing, but I think the EasyV3 matches well with what I want to do. Might step up to the EasyXL though.


Send Joe an email over at Modmymods. They might still have some stock of the XL. I asked about the V3 as initially it was my preference, but they're still in production and not yet ready.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

working on my 101


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Send Joe an email over at Modmymods. They might still have some stock of the XL. I asked about the V3 as initially it was my preference, but they're still in production and not yet ready.


The DimasTech US site has GO-Stock (bad paint) V3s available, but new ones aren't yet.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> The DimasTech US site has GO-Stock (bad paint) V3s available, but new ones aren't yet.


I inquired about GO-Stock too and it's no bueno. Was told that stock is no longer available and the website just hasn't updated. Dimastech USA is actually going to re-open again in 2018 and they're going to use Modmymods as the disti centre.


----------



## StonedBuild




----------



## DarthBaggins

Rainy days make great watercooling weather:


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Rainy days make great watercooling weather:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. Ooo, does me see a 1080Ti?









My rainy day is not a good day.
I have to tear my X99 apart to troubleshoot the board. Not going to be happy camper if I have to buy another board.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup the Ti is finally under it's block


----------



## tomsonx1983

Something was missing... custom I/O ports cover comming


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yup the Ti is finally under it's block


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something was missing... custom I/O ports cover comming


Looking good guys.

Seems a custom I/OP cover isn't the only thing missing from the latter build. Too bad Corsair stopped pushing out simple RAM heatsinks that allow for a Watercooled block to be used without the need for aftermarket heatsinks. Yeah I get that RAM isn't necessarily watercooled components but for me they are mandatory in the quiet factor of my builds. Stupid RGB blingage trend pushed watercooling to the side. Not like RGB strips are that expensive if I want RGB glow in that area.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something was missing... custom I/O ports cover comming


Any place you can get that made or did you personally make it?


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any place you can get that made or did you personally make it?


I did design in 3d and chap from local forum milling it on cnc


----------



## Revan654

I have no idea how this happened, but it snapped off. part of it is still inside my radiator. It's lose enough that I can unscrew once I get time to get access to the port.

---



It's nice to have all those extra radiators and fans but wire management is a pain.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

To much weight or pressure on the thread.

TCO


----------



## vallonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*


That's a sweet build I'd give it a five star rating if that hideous Corsair sticker was removed, it's such an eyesore.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vallonen*
> 
> That's a sweet build I'd give it a five star rating if that hideous Corsair sticker was removed, it's such an eyesore.


Psu will have a cover as well








Work in progress


----------



## DarthBaggins

All I would do is make a custom PSU label that matches the color scheme of the build


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> All I would do is make a custom PSU label that matches the color scheme of the build


This. Or have a magnetic strip custom made to fit the logo and possibly the specs side of the PSU to hide both from view. This way you preserve the unit for future build(s).









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Need your guys opinion, what size soft tubing size you think looks better?

1/2ID 3/4OD or 3/8ID 5/8OD ?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Need your guys opinion, what size soft tubing size you think looks better?
> 
> 1/2ID 3/4OD or 3/8ID 5/8OD ?


Looks only? 3/8ID is cleaner looking. Performance wise you can't beat 1/2ID, but it's bulky.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Looks only? 3/8ID is cleaner looking. Performance wise you can't beat 1/2ID, but it's bulky.


Lol there's no performance gain.


----------



## frostbite

+1

I'm dropping to 7/16" when I redo my loop,


----------



## The_ocho




----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Need your guys opinion, what size soft tubing size you think looks better?
> 
> 1/2ID 3/4OD or 3/8ID 5/8OD ?


I am thinking of dropping a size smaller diameter will be able to run tighter bends


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Looks only? 3/8ID is cleaner looking. Performance wise you can't beat 1/2ID, but it's bulky.


Tube ID makes no difference to performance. Remember the tube ID drops at the fitting so this is the restriction point


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Need your guys opinion, what size soft tubing size you think looks better?
> 
> 1/2ID 3/4OD or 3/8ID 5/8OD ?
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking of dropping a size smaller diameter will be able to run tighter bends
Click to expand...

When I have to make tighter bends, I really like 7/16 X 5/8.

The slightly thinner wall pays big dividends in flexibility and minimum radius.

The slight downside is the lesser selection of compression fittings, but it's still my go-to for soft tube.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tube ID makes no difference to performance. Remember the tube ID drops at the fitting so this is the restriction point


The blocks themselves are even more restrictive, so in practice the difference is going ti be hard to measure, but lower resistance from the tubing would definitely show up if the runs were longer.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> The blocks themselves are even more restrictive, so in practice the difference is going ti be hard to measure, but lower resistance from the tubing would definitely show up if the runs were longer.


Indeed.

But not in any temp reduction.

You will see that hypothetical's and MoE mean so very little. Like the obsession over pump pressure and static pressure for fans, it really doesnt matter as much as you would think.....especially when it comes to tube and fittings.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So the verdict is smaller looks better? or you guys just saying you find smaller is easy to work with?


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So the verdict is smaller looks better? or you guys just saying you find smaller is easy to work with?


Looks are 100% personal and opinion only.

Smaller is easier to work with.


----------



## Questors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Need your guys opinion, what size soft tubing size you think looks better?
> 
> 1/2ID 3/4OD or 3/8ID 5/8OD ?


This will get you 25 different opinions.









I use 12/10 (10mm is approx 3/8") with rigid acrylic tube and like the 5/8" x 7/16" fittings for soft tube.

I have found XSPC makes some very nice lower cost fittings. To me, there is not much sense in using a tube with a much larger ID than the maximum ID of the fittings (which is usually 3/8" or 10mm) and/or blocks. You can end up paying more for the larger fittings, yet there is no gain.

Some prefer the looks of the 1/2" ID tube. Once again, to me, the 3/4" fittings look large, bulky, sort of out of place. It's all personal opinion.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Pretty sure I've only used 3/8 x 1/2"









TCO

EDIT: I was correct.


----------



## MNMadman

I've only ever used 3/8" ID 5/8" OD tubing. Never been tempted to use anything else, as it has performed just as well in my cramped builds as it did in my roomier ones.


----------



## VeritronX

I've fallen in love with 3/8 1/2 tube personally, coming from SFF builds. All my 1/2 3/4 BP compressions are sitting in a bag gathering dust because I can't stand working with tubing that big anymore lol.. But that was the thing when I started WC back in 2010.


----------



## Futan

Same here. First build was with 1/2 x 3/4 in the early 2010s because that was considered best. Since then times changed and I used 3/8 x 5/8 for my current build. Definitely looks better and is easier to work with IMO.


----------



## Abaidor

Same here, I used 1/2 3/4 in my first build back in 2008 with Tygon fat tubes but now I am going 13/10mm since I have about 20 fittings / parts from bitspower / XSPC. I will go soft tube first and then will change it to hard tubing.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Normally I've run 3/8x1/2 & 3/8x5/8
First time though on running 16mm OD Acrylic.


----------



## dwolvin

I run 3/8 - 5/8, and the thicker wall size means you can bend it pretty tightly without the tube caving in or pinching.


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So the verdict is smaller looks better? or you guys just saying you find smaller is easy to work with?


I have the 19mm OD personally in hindsight I should have used 16mm OD
size does not matter, what really counts is a clean layout and finishing touches that will count in the end
ultimatly I believe 12mm hard line is perfection


----------



## WiSK

I hadn't build a PC in 2 years, but it's like riding a bike isn't it? Surprised how easily this went together.



Only really tricky bit was the short piece down at the right side. The reservoir comes out under the pump, so I used an X-splitter and two 90s. They were almost in line, but 6mm offset, so I used two Monsoon mandrels to make a wiggle.



Now to figure out how to get a strip of addressable leds under the GPU block.


----------



## fx3861

Nothung to compare with the rest. First-timer doing custom cooling and hardline. Now just saving up for a new mobo and rgb lights


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I hadn't build a PC in 2 years, but it's like riding a bike isn't it? Surprised how easily this went together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Only really tricky bit was the short piece down at the right side. The reservoir comes out under the pump, so I used an X-splitter and two 90s. They were almost in line, but 6mm offset, so I used two Monsoon mandrels to make a wiggle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to figure out how to get a strip of addressable leds under the GPU block.


Long time no see matey!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I hadn't build a PC in 2 years, but it's like riding a bike isn't it? Surprised how easily this went together.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Only really tricky bit was the short piece down at the right side. The reservoir comes out under the pump, so I used an X-splitter and two 90s. They were almost in line, but 6mm offset, so I used two Monsoon mandrels to make a wiggle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to figure out how to get a strip of addressable leds under the GPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> Long time no see matey!
Click to expand...

^^^^^^^ Exactly

Hang around a while, always something new comin' round the bend . . .


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Send Joe an email over at Modmymods. They might still have some stock of the XL. I asked about the V3 as initially it was my preference, but they're still in production and not yet ready.


Just as an update, they are out and don't know when they will be getting them back in.

Too bad -- they were pretty much perfect.


----------



## chibi

^Dang that's a bummer, hopefully you can get one soon.


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> ^Dang that's a bummer, hopefully you can get one soon.


Waiting for my tax refund, so it'll be the first or second week of February before I can start ordering stuff. If I'm lucky they'll have stuff in by then. If not, I'll have to go with something else.


----------



## D13mass

Guys, could you help me find better fans for two 420mm radiators?
Now I have six Phanteks PH-F140MP, but even on minimum they will be loud. I have coolgate radiators 7FPI, so I am looking for quiet fans, because they will work in 600RPM maximum.

I think about
Cougar Vortex HDB 140 Cooling CF-V14H
or
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-2 Bionic fan 900U/min
or smt else


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would go with the eLoops


----------



## Emissary of Pain

You can check out the eLoops or Silent Wings


----------



## D13mass

I already have eLoops 120mm 4 items, I installed on one 480mm radiator, what can I say - not bad, but very expensive. But eLoops better than Phanteks PH-F140MP it`s 100%. I just think maybe I should try smt new


----------



## Questors

I am not much of a SFF build guy, although I do enjoy seeing the masterpieces others create.

Enter Louqe, which reminded me of a design I penned out some years back and suddenly I have a desire to build a SFF rig. It just so happens the wife needs a new PC. How convenient for me!









What Louqe calls their "spine" is what I drew out one day while bored and needing a solution for some cramped living space. Their Ghost S1 MkII is much improved over what I had come up with, but still very similar. At that point in time, PCIe risers weren't readily available.



Their "core" is also similar, yet to Louqe's credit, theirs is certainly more thoughtfully finished.



At any rate, I was considering scratch building a case like this for my next project. I have several steel cases gathering dust along with a couple aluminum cases for source metals. My biggest challenge will be bending the metal. I have no means to do so.

Also, I was wondering if anyone has worked with this stainless tube, or something like it? Can it be bent?



I found this at the XSPC site.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, could you help me find better fans for two 420mm radiators?
> Now I have six Phanteks PH-F140MP, but even on minimum they will be loud. I have coolgate radiators 7FPI, so I am looking for quiet fans, because they will work in 600RPM maximum.
> 
> I think about
> Cougar Vortex HDB 140 Cooling CF-V14H
> or
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-2 Bionic fan 900U/min
> or smt else


I've used the 120mm variant of the cougar fans. They are nice but out of four I tried two exhibited a whine at low RPMs.

I use obnoxious industrial fans now and dial them down to 600 RPMs. I got tired of trying to keep track of what the latest and greatest was supposed to be. This is probably the fan equivalent of moving to a cabin in the woods because you're v tired of people.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Questors*
> 
> I am not much of a SFF build guy, although I do enjoy seeing the masterpieces others create.
> 
> Enter Louqe, which reminded me of a design I penned out some years back and suddenly I have a desire to build a SFF rig. It just so happens the wife needs a new PC. How convenient for me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What Louqe calls their "spine" is what I drew out one day while bored and needing a solution for some cramped living space. Their Ghost S1 MkII is much improved over what I had come up with, but still very similar. At that point in time, PCIe risers weren't readily available.
> 
> 
> 
> Their "core" is also similar, yet to Louqe's credit, theirs is certainly more thoughtfully finished.
> 
> 
> 
> At any rate, I was considering scratch building a case like this for my next project. I have several steel cases gathering dust along with a couple aluminum cases for source metals. My biggest challenge will be bending the metal. I have no means to do so.
> 
> Also, I was wondering if anyone has worked with this stainless tube, or something like it? Can it be bent?
> 
> 
> 
> I found this at the XSPC site.


You can bend stainless tubing, but you'll want to do it with tools or your hands might cramp up after a while







. The only tubing you can't bend is plated stuff as the plating will flake off.


----------



## D13mass

I spent almost 2 days for market analyze, reviews and tests and realized that my current Phanteks PH-F140MP almost the best, I can buy something for 1 degrees better but really 1 degrees it`s not interesting, what can I find more silent - not fact that will be working good with my 60mm radiators, what can I find more productive - not fact that will be silent.
So, just leave it. I already bought new Xbox One Wireless Controller for PC gaming


----------



## emsj86

Fans come row. To looks. Some yes are not as loud. It end of the day performance difference is so small just go with what looks good


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Fans come row. To looks. Some yes are not as loud. It end of the day performance difference is so small just go with what looks good


The quality of the bearings is quite important too. Good fans don't have to be expensive, but some fans are garbage that falls apart after 2-3 years.


----------



## Qu1ckset

whats the best place to buy barrow fittings ?


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> whats the best place to buy barrow fittings ?


FormulaMod


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> FormulaMod


Thanks, man I'm gunna save a lot buying these, and no more BP logos!


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Thanks, man I'm gunna save a lot buying these, and no more BP logos!


aliexpress


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> whats the best place to buy barrow fittings ?


ModMyMods.com


----------



## DarthBaggins

I normally get my Barrow from eBay or TitanPC on Amazon


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Fans come row. To looks. Some yes are not as loud. It end of the day performance difference is so small just go with what looks good


I couldn't disagree more. When I started using GTs it was a night/day difference, and my ears are much happier now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> I spent almost 2 days for market analyze, reviews and tests and realized that my current Phanteks PH-F140MP almost the best, I can buy something for 1 degrees better but really 1 degrees it`s not interesting, what can I find more silent - not fact that will be working good with my 60mm radiators, what can I find more productive - not fact that will be silent.
> So, just leave it. I already bought new Xbox One Wireless Controller for PC gaming


At some point, purchasing fans come down to a mix of what works best with the Fin density of the rad they are on and aesthetics.

TCO


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice block. I'll be getting a nickel/black version for a Titan Xp in my new build coming next month.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Nice block. I'll be getting a nickel/black version for a Titan Xp in my new build coming next month.


Very nice! I liked the copper and couldn't find the copper and black, but it should go with my theme of red and silver so

it will be mounted here for all the front and center viewing pleasure, need to get a updated picture with the card block on


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> Very nice! I liked the copper and couldn't find the copper and black, but it should go with my theme of red and silver so
> 
> it will be mounted here for all the front and center viewing pleasure, need to get a updated picture with the card block on


I'm pretty sure they don't do copper and black, except possibly by special request as I have seen a picture of one somewhere.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> I'm pretty sure they don't do copper and black, except possibly by special request as I have seen a picture of one somewhere.


Yeah I found a picture of one but who knows that user could have painted it black, as I could, but the silver should look good with the theme once finished, or at least I hope









I could not find one for sale, so I assumed it was a "one off" or customized.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Found someone selling the EKWB SE280 locally for a decent price , how much better is the CE280 ?


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Found someone selling the EKWB SE280 locally for a decent price , how much better is the CE280 ?


check out this thread page, 2 years old but still relevant http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> Very nice! I liked the copper and couldn't find the copper and black, but it should go with my theme of red and silver so
> 
> it will be mounted here for all the front and center viewing pleasure, need to get a updated picture with the card block on


Thats strange, u have 6exhaust fan and 0 intake ? I dont think that is going to work .


----------



## D13mass

Guys, short question.

I need something for control my fans (6-8 fans), without display, setup in windows tools and forget.
I chosen Aquacomputer poweradjust 3 , but after research one guy told me next:
-- poweradjust 3 doesn`t see sensors on mobo, cpu and gpu, which now I can see in HWinfo.
-- poweradjust 3 can`t be setup in dependency of cpu temps
-- poweradjust 3 can see only sensors which you connected to it.
Is it true or I should buy some another model?


----------



## D13mass

Ok, already decided to buy Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT USB fan-controller


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, short question.
> 
> I need something for control my fans (6-8 fans), without display, setup in windows tools and forget.
> I chosen Aquacomputer poweradjust 3 , but after research one guy told me next:
> -- poweradjust 3 doesn`t see sensors on mobo, cpu and gpu, which now I can see in HWinfo.
> -- poweradjust 3 can`t be setup in dependency of cpu temps
> -- poweradjust 3 can see only sensors which you connected to it.
> Is it true or I should buy some another model?


thats typically the case with the majority of controllers, they do this to increase interoperability between hardware setups and to minimise pricing...

what you should probably be looking at is something that runs via your motherboard software (assuiming of course that it already has sensors within it and software for you to view those things) if for instance you have got something akin to the asus ai suite (hopefully you know what this is) you plug the fans into the mobo (wiht splitters or head extenders if required) and then use the mobo software to control fan profile settings.

for instance if your pc has 3 intake fans on the front you cna set them to work off a single fan header via an extender (best to use pwm fans and extenders that include a power connector for power concerns) this way your mobo software can set up the fan profile based on whatever settings you choose and you can forget about it after setting it up,

my personal setup i have a couple of options, i have the case and mobo fans setup to run via the bios, the aio fans to run via the aio software, and gfx card fans to run via the gfx card software, now i could just save the profile i created to the aio unplug it from the usb header and uninstall the software and it would work without me doing anything ever again, similar wiht the gfx card software

or i could have bought asus compatible parts and run everything via ai suite (which were i to install it would run in the background just like c-link and trixx do when i'm not checking or changing something on them)

so a lot of what you can do depends on what you have to work with, what your prepared to do going forwards, how fussy you are about wires everywhere....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Ok, already decided to buy Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT USB fan-controller


Buy the 6LT!!!

It's not that much more than the 5 series, but has all 4 channels PWM capable, while the 5 has only 1.

It also has a much greater load capacity due to much more modern design technology, and runs very cool and doesn't need the optional heatsink, even under near max load.

The 6 series is just a much wiser choice, as it can last years ahead as your configurations and parts change.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, short question.
> 
> I need something for control my fans (6-8 fans), without display, setup in windows tools and forget.
> I chosen Aquacomputer poweradjust 3 , but after research one guy told me next:
> -- poweradjust 3 doesn`t see sensors on mobo, cpu and gpu, which now I can see in HWinfo.
> -- poweradjust 3 can`t be setup in dependency of cpu temps
> -- poweradjust 3 can see only sensors which you connected to it.
> Is it true or I should buy some another model?


Slave the fans to water temp...not CPU temp.


----------



## D13mass

*IT Diva* I found in my country really good deal with Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT (used but in good condition for 30$), probably I would buy 5LT and lets see. Maybe in future I will buy 7LT








*B NEGATIVE* for me its not good option, I have idle water temp = 25-26 and under load = 28-29







sometime without load if I turn off fans I will get 30 degrees stable water temps, so not necessary to run fans at all without load.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Ok, already decided to buy Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT USB fan-controller


I have used Aquaero 5 and 6 in the past, and although they are really superior, I recently tried the Corsair Commander Pro and was pleasantly surprised.

positives:
- less than half the price of Aquaero
- autonomous, communicates by USB so just like Aquaero it can read motherboard temp sensors without Windows software running
- 6 fans (all can be set either voltage or PWM)
- 2 channels for addressable RGB led strips (so up to 120 leds)
- regular G1/4 water temperature sensor can be used, provided you know how to crimp fan pins

negatives:
- max 4.5A of voltage fans, just less than Aquaero 5 and lot less than Aquero 6
- no 'delta' temps (ie virtual temp sensors based on the difference between several measurements) which makes it a bit pointless to have 4 temp sensors included because each fan can only be controlled by one temp output and you are realistically going to choose either cpu or gpu or water temperature and not some random case air temp measurement, right?
- custom fan/pump curve by rpm is poorly implemented for PWM, it can't seem to figure out a steady duty cycle, so it goes up and down. but there is a bug report and hopefully custom curve by duty cycle instead of rpm should be available soon
- corsair link has had bugs in the past and will again, and you may dislike it on principle that it started out life as the H100 software, although it seems pretty good and certainly more intuitive than Aquasuite


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> check out this thread page, 2 years old but still relevant http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/


Worst Performing Rad on the list lol

Why couldn't this guy had a CE instead of this SE lol


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> Thats strange, u have 6exhaust fan and 0 intake ? I dont think that is going to work .


Not strange at all, it is a work in progress, don't pay that close attention to details on a system that is far from complete. I am hoping to have completed by March 2nd, until then don't loose sleep on how well my fan setup is or isn't performing. I plan to remove the rear fan and replace it with a intaking fan.

Thanks for your concern tho


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I have used Aquaero 5 and 6 in the past, and although they are really superior, I recently tried the Corsair Commander Pro and was pleasantly surprised.
> 
> positives:
> - less than half the price of Aquaero
> - autonomous, communicates by USB so just like Aquaero it can read motherboard temp sensors without Windows software running
> - 6 fans (all can be set either voltage or PWM)
> - 2 channels for addressable RGB led strips (so up to 120 leds)
> - regular G1/4 water temperature sensor can be used, provided you know how to crimp fan pins
> 
> negatives:
> - max 4.5A of voltage fans, just less than Aquaero 5 and lot less than Aquero 6
> - no 'delta' temps (ie virtual temp sensors based on the difference between several measurements) which makes it a bit pointless to have 4 temp sensors included because each fan can only be controlled by one temp output and you are realistically going to choose either cpu or gpu or water temperature and not some random case air temp measurement, right?
> - custom fan/pump curve by rpm is poorly implemented for PWM, it can't seem to figure out a steady duty cycle, so it goes up and down. but there is a bug report and hopefully custom curve by duty cycle instead of rpm should be available soon
> - corsair link has had bugs in the past and will again, and you may dislike it on principle that it started out life as the H100 software, although it seems pretty good and certainly more intuitive than Aquasuite


I use them also.
A competent piece of control kit at a reasonable price.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> Very nice! I liked the copper and couldn't find the copper and black, but it should go with my theme of red and silver so
> 
> it will be mounted here for all the front and center viewing pleasure, need to get a updated picture with the card block on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats strange, u have 6exhaust fan and 0 intake ? I dont think that is going to work .
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter at the stage he's at. I'm pretty sure he's gonna run a positive airflow setup. So the bottom three fans would likely be flipped and the rest are set to exhaust. Or maybe I am mis-thinking how Positive works. I ran my 360 up top and those fans were set to exhaust with no rear fan and a 200mm intake in the front. It worked well, but lordy the dust bunnies were multiplying faster than real bunnies. And all the HDD vents were caked with dust every month.









~Ceadder


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Doesn't matter at the stage he's at. I'm pretty sure he's gonna run a positive airflow setup. So the bottom three fans would likely be flipped and the rest are set to exhaust. Or maybe I am mis-thinking how Positive works. I ran my 360 up top and those fans were set to exhaust with no rear fan and a 200mm intake in the front. It worked well, but lordy the dust bunnies were multiplying faster than real bunnies. And all the HDD vents were caked with dust every month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Positive has more intake than exhaust, negative has more exhaust than intake. A negative setup is just going to pull air from every crack and crevice until the system reaches equilibrium. Filters are helpful in that use case







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Doesn't matter at the stage he's at. I'm pretty sure he's gonna run a positive airflow setup. So the bottom three fans would likely be flipped and the rest are set to exhaust. Or maybe I am mis-thinking how Positive works. I ran my 360 up top and those fans were set to exhaust with no rear fan and a 200mm intake in the front. It worked well, but lordy the dust bunnies were multiplying faster than real bunnies. And all the HDD vents were caked with dust every month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Positive has more intake than exhaust, negative has more exhaust than intake. A negative setup is just going to pull air from every crack and crevice until the system reaches equilibrium. Filters are helpful in that use case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Ahhhhhh I see where my thought process went wrong. Thanks for the clarification Strike. +Rep to you sir.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I have used Aquaero 5 and 6 in the past, and although they are really superior, I recently tried the Corsair Commander Pro and was pleasantly surprised.
> 
> positives:
> - less than half the price of Aquaero
> - autonomous, communicates by USB so just like Aquaero it can read motherboard temp sensors without Windows software running
> - 6 fans (all can be set either voltage or PWM)
> - 2 channels for addressable RGB led strips (so up to 120 leds)
> - regular G1/4 water temperature sensor can be used, provided you know how to crimp fan pins
> 
> negatives:
> - max 4.5A of voltage fans, just less than Aquaero 5 and lot less than Aquero 6
> - no 'delta' temps (ie virtual temp sensors based on the difference between several measurements) which makes it a bit pointless to have 4 temp sensors included because each fan can only be controlled by one temp output and you are realistically going to choose either cpu or gpu or water temperature and not some random case air temp measurement, right?
> - custom fan/pump curve by rpm is poorly implemented for PWM, it can't seem to figure out a steady duty cycle, so it goes up and down. but there is a bug report and hopefully custom curve by duty cycle instead of rpm should be available soon
> - corsair link has had bugs in the past and will again, and you may dislike it on principle that it started out life as the H100 software, although it seems pretty good and certainly more intuitive than Aquasuite


Glad that you brought this up. If I may pick your brain a bit.

I'm currently running 5 pwm rad fans off a swiftech pwm splitter but I also have a phobya inline temp sensor in my loop. From what you're saying I should be able to control all 5 fans off my liquid temp with the corsair commander. This correct? What do you mean by crimping the 2 pin on the sensor?

I'd much rather control my fans off fluid temp vs the cpu as some games are cpu bound and others gpu. My board (gigabyte x99m) doesn't have a 2 pin sensor connection and I'd prefer not to spend a lot of money on something like an aquaero so it sounds like the commander might be right up my alley.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Glad that you brought this up. If I may pick your brain a bit.
> 
> I'm currently running 5 pwm rad fans off a swiftech pwm splitter but I also have a phobya inline temp sensor in my loop. From what you're saying I should be able to control all 5 fans off my liquid temp with the corsair commander. This correct? What do you mean by crimping the 2 pin on the sensor?
> 
> I'd much rather control my fans off fluid temp vs the cpu as some games are cpu bound and others gpu. My board (gigabyte x99m) doesn't have a 2 pin sensor connection and I'd prefer not to spend a lot of money on something like an aquaero so it sounds like the commander might be right up my alley.


Okay so usually a temp sensor has a 2 pin "dupont" connector. You know like the little connectors for motherboard/case power switch, hdd light and such.

But Corsair, in their wisdom have used 2 pin fan connectors. Which is a bit annoying for most users I guess. Unless you are into sleeving because then you probably have the crimp tool and fan pins needed to convert this connector.

The other option is to solder it, but you need to try to keep the same overall length of cable.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I couldn't disagree more. When I started using GTs it was a night/day difference, and my ears are much happier now.


Same, I have Corsair 120SPs, eLoop PWMs, Noctua Industrial 140mm, and GT AP-15s.
I still prefer my GT AP-15s over the rest. Actually, my loudest fan at the moment is the 140mm Noctua on my TR chip's air cooler along with the hum off the front Noctua fan.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Okay so usually a temp sensor has a 2 pin "dupont" connector. You know like the little connectors for motherboard/case power switch, hdd light and such.
> 
> But Corsair, in their wisdom have used 2 pin fan connectors. Which is a bit annoying for most users I guess. Unless you are into sleeving because then you probably have the crimp tool and fan pins needed to convert this connector.
> 
> The other option is to solder it, but you need to try to keep the same overall length of cable.


OK so basically I'm just snipping off the end of the sensor and replacing it with the larger 2 pin 'fan' connector type and I'd be good to go?


----------



## aaronpiatt

Just a little Inwin 301.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> OK so basically I'm just snipping off the end of the sensor and replacing it with the larger 2 pin 'fan' connector type and I'd be good to go?


Yes but at the risk of repeating myself and no idea of your competence, no offence intended: you either need to have fan pins and crimper, or a soldering iron and know how to use it. Twisting wires together might not cut it because temp sensors are resistance based


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronpiatt*
> 
> Just a little Inwin 301.


Nice build!








I keep wanting to put two fans in the front of my In Win 101 but I keep talking myself out of it.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes but at the risk of repeating myself and no idea of your competence, no offence intended: you either need to have fan pins and crimper, or a soldering iron and know how to use it. Twisting wires together might not cut it because temp sensors are resistance based


No, I get it. No offense. I'm not sure of the resistance of the sensor. I've looked around and can't find any info on it.

Assuming the resistance is in line and I have the crimping tool, couldn't you use one of the ends of the temp probes that come with the commander?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Assuming the resistance is in line and I have the crimping tool, couldn't you use one of the ends of the temp probes that come with the commander?


Yes, exactly. Unpin one of the commander connectors; crimp 2 fan pins on the Phobya thingy; profit!

At least, it worked for me with a Bitspower temp sensor plug


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes, exactly. Unpin one of the commander connectors; crimp 2 fan pins on the Phobya thingy; profit!
> 
> At least, it worked for me with a Bitspower temp sensor plug


Perfect. Thanks.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I have used Aquaero 5 and 6 in the past, and although they are really superior, I recently tried the Corsair Commander Pro and was pleasantly surprised.
> 
> positives:
> - less than half the price of Aquaero
> - autonomous, communicates by USB so just like Aquaero it can read motherboard temp sensors without Windows software running
> - 6 fans (all can be set either voltage or PWM)
> - 2 channels for addressable RGB led strips (so up to 120 leds)
> - regular G1/4 water temperature sensor can be used, provided you know how to crimp fan pins
> 
> negatives:
> - max 4.5A of voltage fans, just less than Aquaero 5 and lot less than Aquero 6
> - no 'delta' temps (ie virtual temp sensors based on the difference between several measurements) which makes it a bit pointless to have 4 temp sensors included because each fan can only be controlled by one temp output and you are realistically going to choose either cpu or gpu or water temperature and not some random case air temp measurement, right?
> - custom fan/pump curve by rpm is poorly implemented for PWM, it can't seem to figure out a steady duty cycle, so it goes up and down. but there is a bug report and hopefully custom curve by duty cycle instead of rpm should be available soon
> - corsair link has had bugs in the past and will again, and you may dislike it on principle that it started out life as the H100 software, although it seems pretty good and certainly more intuitive than Aquasuite


Let's say I have my water temp sensor plugged into my motherboard's temp header. Would the Commander have the option to just read from that sensor for fan control instead of crimping a 2 pin fan header?
Also, would it freak out if I plug my silverstone PWM 8-port fan hub into one of it's PWM controllers? It's self-powered.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mounted up the m.2 Heatsink, need to find my tubing de-burrer (might just go buy a new one from Harbor Freight)


----------



## KCDC

Well I definitely have learned a few things when it comes to glass tubing.

Glass tile nippers suck

Just use a dremel and a diamond cutter. Wasted too much glass on that damn glass tile nipper situation.

Diamond cutter all the way. Perfect cuts and smooth edges.

Also a rotating vice


----------



## Gleniu

Hello OCN Water Cooling Club








I have rebuilt my rig after 2 year - the same hardware and setup, mainly maintenance exercise.



Some picks of the tubing (two types) and blocks after two years (Deionized water + biocide extreme). More in the log:
build-log-rebuild-loop-maintenance-after-2-years-i7-5930k-gtx-970-sli-in-phanteks-enthoo-primo




Primochill Advance LRT black


Masterkleer black


Edit: my fan/rad setup (Phanteks Enthoo Primo):


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Mounted up the m.2 Heatsink, need to find my tubing de-burrer (might just go buy a new one from Harbor Freight)


I really like how this build is progressing.


----------



## VeritronX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> for me its not good option, I have idle water temp = 25-26 and under load = 28-29
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sometime without load if I turn off fans I will get 30 degrees stable water temps, so not necessary to run fans at all without load.


With the Poweradjust 2 and 3 ultra's you can set it to PID control and give it a target temp to hold, it will adjust fan speed to hold that temp and has the option to turn the fans off if they aren't needed. Small temp ranges aren't a problem for it. You can also do this with the aquaero's and have seperate fan channels with some that turn off and some that don't. I prefer to control watercooled systems this way with water temp personally.

My reasoning is that the three main influences of the temp of a component with a waterblock on it will be the rate of heat transfer through the block (how good the mounting is etc), the amount of heat being generated, and how hot the water entering the block is.. If the mount stays the same and the water temp is held static then the only variable is heat output. If you do your stability testing with max heat output then you should be stable until the air in the room gets too hot and water temp increases above the set point while the fans are already at 100%.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Let's say I have my water temp sensor plugged into my motherboard's temp header. Would the Commander have the option to just read from that sensor for fan control instead of crimping a 2 pin fan header?
> Also, would it freak out if I plug my silverstone PWM 8-port fan hub into one of it's PWM controllers? It's self-powered.


It should be able to read any motherboard sensor no problem, including a water temp sensor.

I have a swiftech pwm splitter somewhere, could try it. But I'm sure it'll work


----------



## Jokesterwild

Thought the tempered glass side panels looked awesome so I updated my V1100 with one.


----------



## IT Diva

Hi guys,

Some may recall that a few days back, I mentioned starting a new build in a TriStellar case ( http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/107650#post_26540785 )

Well, I got it started, . . . and it's going to be in, NOT ONE, . . BUT TWO . . . siamesed TriStellar cases.

Stop by and say Hi:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1646085/theme-build-tri-hexial-two-tristellar-cases-with-2-opposing-cabins-joined-set-on-end-like-a-vegas-casino-hotel#post_26558219

And on another note, My CNC should be on island this week, and with luck, it will clear customs by Friday and I an forget this old school manual stuff.



Darlene


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Well I definitely have learned a few things when it comes to glass tubing.
> 
> Glass tile nippers suck
> 
> Just use a dremel and a diamond cutter. Wasted too much glass on that damn glass tile nipper situation.
> 
> Diamond cutter all the way. Perfect cuts and smooth edges.
> 
> Also a rotating vice


It doesn't really matter as long as you flame polish afterwards.


----------



## emsj86

deleted


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronpiatt*
> 
> Just a little Inwin 301.


I like it. It's very clean. Makes me want to start up another project.


----------



## Spawne32

god i remember when i was doing reviews on ocpulse like 10 years ago right before i started working for lamptron and inwin was an up and coming company lol their cases were so meh but you could see they had good ideas, now they have some of the best on the market.


----------



## Amfamora

Currently updating my 3 year-old rig from a 4790k to 8700k. Finally found a Monoblock for my Z370 Asrock Taichi. Bitspower released one a week or so ago.

Ordered direct from Bitspower. Couldnt find one stocked in Australia anywhere.

Old system was:

4790k @ 4.7
R9 295x2 and r9 290x in trifire on water with EK Blocks.
32gig Corsair Vengeance 2133mhz
ASUS Maximus VII Formula

New:

8700k - Already delidded
Gigabyte AORUS Extreme GTX 1080ti with waterblock
16gig Trident Z 3600mhz CL16
Asrock Taichi

All going back in my 900D but swapping out my soft tube setup for 14mm hardline with Barrow Fittings.

Got tired of Crossfire not working with all games and wanted to simplify my rig a little.


----------



## Hello Man

*First Hardline Build*

Heres my first attempt at hard tube stuff. So yeah maybe not the best idea to spend Christmas cash on something you've never done before. Took me like eight hours because the RSX fittings turned out to be about 1mm too small on the compression ring side. I milled them out with a Dremel and then polished them with a felt wheel and some compound so they wouldn't scratch the Alphacool Eisroihr tube. Scratching=no frosted look. Also, the bending rubber I had turned out to not be silicone, so when I got the stuff hot enough to bend it fused to the inside. Cool. 

Overall, scale of 1-10 pissed I was about an 8.5 before I filled this thing and ended up leak free the first time. Did not complain about that. 

Anyways, I will shut up and let everyone see my meh handiwork. 

Enjoy the hand sleeved cables too.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hello Man said:


> Heres my first attempt at hard tube stuff. So yeah maybe not the best idea to spend Christmas cash on something you've never done before. Took me like eight hours because the RSX fittings turned out to be about 1mm too small on the compression ring side. I milled them out with a Dremel and then polished them with a felt wheel and some compound so they wouldn't scratch the Alphacool Eisroihr tube. Scratching=no frosted look. Also, the bending rubber I had turned out to not be silicone, so when I got the stuff hot enough to bend it fused to the inside. Cool.
> 
> Overall, scale of 1-10 pissed I was about an 8.5 before I filled this thing and ended up leak free the first time. Did not complain about that.
> 
> Anyways, I will shut up and let everyone see my meh handiwork.
> 
> Enjoy the hand sleeved cables too.


Turned out pretty good for an 8.5 on the pissed off o' meter lol


----------



## Hello Man

DarthBaggins said:


> Turned out pretty good for an 8.5 on the pissed off o' meter lol


Ah, wasn't too pissed with the final product. Just with the hoops I had to jump through and the number of failed bends. I need a taller table, my back was so sore.


----------



## Gabrielzm

IT Diva said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Some may recall that a few days back, I mentioned starting a new build in a TriStellar case ( http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/107650#post_26540785 )
> 
> Well, I got it started, . . . and it's going to be in, NOT ONE, . . BUT TWO . . . siamesed TriStellar cases.
> 
> Stop by and say Hi:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1646085/...n-end-like-a-vegas-casino-hotel#post_26558219
> 
> And on another note, My CNC should be on island this week, and with luck, it will clear customs by Friday and I an forget this old school manual stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Ulala...Darlene and a CNC? That's sound like fun  If I find my camera cable will post pics soon of one new system and the upgrade on chessboard.


----------



## IT Diva

Gabrielzm said:


> Ulala...Darlene and a CNC? That's sound like fun  If I find my camera cable will post pics soon of one new system and the upgrade on chessboard.



Hey Gabz old friend . . . ltns

The mill will be on island Friday, which means it should clear customs so I can pick it up late next week.

In the meantime, I have a big PPCs order of stuff for Tri -- Hexial that should be in for the weekend, so no shortage of fun and excitement here.

Glad to see Chessboard getting some lovin' again . . .


Darlene


----------



## iamjanco

IT Diva said:


> Hey Gabz old friend . . . ltns
> 
> The mill will be on island Friday, which means it should clear customs so I can pick it up late next week.
> 
> In the meantime, I have a big PPCs order of stuff for Tri -- Hexial that should be in for the weekend, so no shortage of fun and excitement here.
> 
> Glad to see Chessboard getting some lovin' again . . .
> 
> 
> Darlene


Last edited by Garman; 08-14-2014 at 09:10 PM?


----------



## Gabrielzm

IT Diva said:


> Hey Gabz old friend . . . ltns
> 
> The mill will be on island Friday, which means it should clear customs so I can pick it up late next week.
> 
> In the meantime, I have a big PPCs order of stuff for Tri -- Hexial that should be in for the weekend, so no shortage of fun and excitement here.
> 
> Glad to see Chessboard getting some lovin' again . . .
> 
> 
> Darlene


Sounds interesting. I will be following what you come up with the cnc  Yep, chessboard is getting a full upgrade to x299 with a new mid plate and one surprise in store: I came up with a new way to mount the pumps and decoupling them that and will be testing it.

cheers


----------



## KCDC

Hefner said:


> Quote: Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Well I definitely have learned a few things when it comes to glass tubing.
> 
> Glass tile nippers suck
> 
> Just use a dremel and a diamond cutter. Wasted too much glass on that damn glass tile nipper situation.
> 
> Diamond cutter all the way. Perfect cuts and smooth edges.
> 
> Also a rotating vice
> 
> It doesn't really matter as long as you flame polish afterwards.



I was able to chamfer the edges/ends with the diamond grinder/cutter until there were no sharp edges. Gonna take some pics soon of my shiny new glass tube build!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

IT Diva said:


> Darlene


Dear God woman,if thats you in your avatar, your back must kill you! What did your momma feed you??!!


----------



## IT Diva

B NEGATIVE said:


> Dear God woman,if thats you in your avatar, your back must kill you! What did your momma feed you??!!




I figured after all these years I was due for an "Avatar Refresh".


It's still my favorite, "I wish these were brains", T shirt message though.


Back at Christmas when TCO asked for a naughty Ms. Clause pic, that's me on the left, so even though this avatar isn't me, it's a really good likeness, right down to the bottle of Jack Daniels.




Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like the OCN platform change is going as smoothly as can be expected given the circumstances... :mellowsmi

Says I am subscribed to the thread but none of my subs are showing up in my list. So I will be back, soon as I hunt down all the subs I had and re-sub them. Kinda sucks but progress doesn't come without some sweat involved.  lol

So is that build gonna be 6 stations in a circle ITD? :headscrat

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## IT Diva

Ceadderman said:


> Looks like the OCN platform change is going as smoothly as can be expected given the circumstances... :mellowsmi
> 
> Says I am subscribed to the thread but none of my subs are showing up in my list. So I will be back, soon as I hunt down all the subs I had and re-sub them. Kinda sucks but progress doesn't come without some sweat involved.  lol
> 
> So is that build gonna be 6 stations in a circle ITD? :headscrat
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


 



The plan is to use 2 cases side by side, siamesed at the motherboard compartments so that I could use a full atx mobo and 2 GPUs in SLi.


----------



## Gabrielzm

It looks like a tie bomber


----------



## fx3861

Damn, some carbon fibre sheet for panels and yer set to fly


----------



## fx3861

Damn, some carbon fibre sheet for panels and yer set to fly


----------



## Dortheleus

IT Diva said:


> The plan is to use 2 cases side by side, siamesed at the motherboard compartments so that I could use a full atx mobo and 2 GPUs in SLi.


Can't wait to see this to come together.  So much potential.  Wow!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Gabrielzm said:


> It looks like a tie bomber


 



I kind of had thoughts along the lines of it looking like a sci-fi space craft if placed horizontally, so as it progresses, I'll be trying to maintain the ability to have it work out either way.


Acrylic tubes with addressable LED strips will be at each of the 4 "corners", ostensibly as elevators, but they could also be propulsion systems if it sets horizontally, so lots of possibilities are open.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Could almost make it look like a X-Wing lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

IT Diva said:


> I figured after all these years I was due for an "Avatar Refresh".
> 
> 
> It's still my favorite, "I wish these were brains", T shirt message though.
> 
> 
> Back at Christmas when TCO asked for a naughty Ms. Clause pic, that's me on the left, so even though this avatar isn't me, it's a really good likeness, right down to the bottle of Jack Daniels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Im still waiting on that picture. Lets not forget that 

TCO


----------



## lexer

Today I reemplaced the thermal paste of my GPU. I was using Gelid GC Extreme but the GPU temps were very bad 49-55°c full load. I noticed that the paste on the GPU was too dry with only 6 months probably a old batch. Now with Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra i'm in the low 40s


----------



## lexer

Today I reemplaced the thermal paste of my GPU. I was using Gelid GC Extreme but the GPU temps were very bad 49-55°c full load. I noticed that the paste with only 6 months was too dry probably was a old batch. Now with Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra i'm in the low 40s


----------



## Moheevi_chess

Upgraded my rig and changed my tube color to white.


----------



## Andrew LB

Some goodies arrived today courtesy of Fedex.

http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61217&stc=1&d=1517116666

http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61225&stc=1&d=1517116666

Also received some 14mm/11mm Bitspower Acrylic tubing and a Bitspower 11mm silicone insert which is actually 10mm which means I need to find one that actually fits the ID of the tubing. Looks like i'll be driving to McMaster-Carr on Monday to get an insert that actually works. 

I've seen that some of you guys buy stuff from McMaster, but have any of you actually been there? lol. I use their will-call all the time and its one of the most massive warehouses i've ever seen. You know the closing scene at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark?


----------



## Andrew LB

Some goodies arrived today courtesy of Fedex.



















Also received some 14mm/11mm Bitspower Acrylic tubing and a Bitspower 11mm silicone insert which is actually 10mm which means I need to find one that actually fits the ID of the tubing. Looks like i'll be driving to McMaster-Carr on Monday to get an insert that actually works. 

I've seen that some of you guys buy stuff from McMaster, but have any of you actually been there? lol. I use their will-call all the time and its one of the most massive warehouses i've ever seen. You know the closing scene at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Andrew LB said:


> Some goodies arrived today courtesy of Fedex.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61217&stc=1&d=1517116666
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61225&stc=1&d=1517116666
> 
> Also received some 14mm/11mm Bitspower Acrylic tubing and a Bitspower 11mm silicone insert which is actually 10mm which means I need to find one that actually fits the ID of the tubing. Looks like i'll be driving to McMaster-Carr on Monday to get an insert that actually works.
> 
> I've seen that some of you guys buy stuff from McMaster, but have any of you actually been there? lol. I use their will-call all the time and its one of the most massive warehouses i've ever seen. You know the closing scene at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark?


I've ordered from McMaster but really would love to see their operation here in Atlanta


----------



## dicom

WhiteStorm V4 updated.

Finally make side panel as wanted. Now is glass instead of plexi.

Also changed all chrome fittings and extender (nickel) to black/white combination.
Ball valve changed from EK to Barrow in order to fit new design look.


----------



## Spawne32

I've seen barrow fittings mentioned a few times in this thread by people. I have a box coming of them for my own personal build, but I was curious if anyone would be interested in ordering them here if i could source them here locally in the US at cheaper prices then what titan rig is offering over on amazon. If there is interest for it lemme know and I'll see what I can do about the pricing.


----------



## Andrew LB

Spawne32 said:


> I've seen barrow fittings mentioned a few times in this thread by people. I have a box coming of them for my own personal build, but I was curious if anyone would be interested in ordering them here if i could source them here locally in the US at cheaper prices then what titan rig is offering over on amazon. If there is interest for it lemme know and I'll see what I can do about the pricing.


Yeah, they're kind of expensive if you get them from Amazon. But i had some gift cards and i'm a prime member so it was a no brainer. Quite often they even do same day delivery for no additional charge. Hopefully drone delivery will be available soon.


----------



## MNMadman

Got mine from ModMyMods for $4 apiece. They have black and nickel.


----------



## Spawne32

MNMadman said:


> Got mine from ModMyMods for $4 apiece. They have black and nickel.


The straight exit compression fittings?


----------



## MNMadman

Spawne32 said:


> The straight exit compression fittings?


I was referring to soft-tube 3/8" ID 5/8" OD compression fittings. I should have specified that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

:wheee: cables arrived from Mod1PC!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Broken multipost bug


----------



## DarthBaggins

Broken multipost


----------



## DarthBaggins

And yet again another broken multipost (must be a record for a quad post)


----------



## taowulf

DarthBaggins said:


> And yet again another broken multipost (must be a record for a quad post)



You really JayTwoCentzed up the thread now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also noticed the Imaged didn't resize itself as it did on Huddler - fixed that part.


Still though I think a quad post has to be the record for the site's post bug lol


----------



## KCDC

DarthBaggins said:


> :wheee: cables arrived from Mod1PC!



And how do you like the cables?

I'm in the market, not ready to do my own yet. 
CableMod is out, so now it's between Singularity or Mod-One...


----------



## ir88ed

aaronpiatt said:


> Just a little Inwin 301.


That is a tough bend from the res to the monoblock. Nice work! Very clean.


----------



## DarthBaggins

KCDC said:


> And how do you like the cables?
> 
> I'm in the market, not ready to do my own yet.
> CableMod is out, so now it's between Singularity or Mod-One...


Cables (full cables & extensions) from Mod1PC are great and so many color options, plus I placed the order a little over a week ago.
Also if they have any questions to confirm compatibility, they actually get in touch with you (not just send cables on a guess that there have been no changes to a PSU - which some have done small tweaks over generations)


----------



## KCDC

DarthBaggins said:


> Cables (full cables & extensions) from Mod1PC are great and so many color options, plus I placed the order a little over a week ago.
> Also if they have any questions to confirm compatibility, they actually get in touch with you (not just send cables on a guess that there have been no changes to a PSU - which some have done small tweaks over generations)



Awesome. Pretend there's rep and you got 1


----------



## CptAsian

KCDC said:


> And how do you like the cables?
> 
> I'm in the market, not ready to do my own yet.
> CableMod is out, so now it's between Singularity or Mod-One...


Why is CableMod out? I got a custom set from them a few months back, and I'm very satisfied with my purchase. (Photo in spoiler.)



Spoiler


----------



## chibi

CptAsian said:


> Why is CableMod out? I got a custom set from them a few months back, and I'm very satisfied with my purchase. (Photo in spoiler.)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler



Overall quality in general I suppose. I had a set of Cablemod cables and when compared with my new ModOne, there's no going back. :thumb:


----------



## CptAsian

chibi said:


> Overall quality in general I suppose. I had a set of Cablemod cables and when compared with my new ModOne, there's no going back. :thumb:


I may consider them if I feel the need for some more sleeved cables in the future. They look nice, but price difference between the ModOne and CableMod products is certainly significant.


----------



## KCDC

CptAsian said:


> Why is CableMod out? I got a custom set from them a few months back, and I'm very satisfied with my purchase. (Photo in spoiler.)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


I currently have a set and a lot of the cables have annoying bends in them that wont straighten because they use thinner cabling, so it looks like a bad sleeving job. They came like this, BTW.

Seen multiple reports in the sleeving thread of quality and crappy product with their cables since they're not hand-made and their QC is more or less nonexistent. 

Mod One and Singularity get a lot of praise on this forum and I trust it. Also tons of different colors to choose from. Their process is more straight forward as well when customizing.

EDIT: the latest:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/1797...9-cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion-1462.html


----------



## CptAsian

KCDC said:


> I currently have a set and a lot of the cables have annoying bends in them that wont straighten because they use thinner cabling, so it looks like a bad sleeving job. They came like this, BTW.
> 
> Seen multiple reports in the sleeving thread of quality and crappy product with their cables since they're not hand-made and their QC is more or less nonexistent.
> 
> Mod One and Singularity get a lot of praise on this forum and I trust it. Also tons of different colors to choose from. Their process is more straight forward as well when customizing.
> 
> EDIT: the latest:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/1797...9-cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion-1462.html


Interesting, thanks for the info. I ran through Mod-One's cable customization earlier, and frankly, I like CableMod's more since you get a visual, unless I missed something. And I guess I got lucky with my cables, or perhaps getting cable combs separately saved the potential for some trouble. But indeed, the example in the thread you linked is ridiculous.


----------



## KCDC

CptAsian said:


> Interesting, thanks for the info. I ran through Mod-One's cable customization earlier, and frankly, I like CableMod's more since you get a visual, unless I missed something. And I guess I got lucky with my cables, or perhaps getting cable combs separately saved the potential for some trouble. But indeed, the example in the thread you linked is ridiculous.



I agree with you, I did like the visual element in CMs configurator, I had to have two windows open with the color options in one and the config page on the other for the other two, and it seems Mod-One is still out of stock of the combs I prefer for the 14-pin PCIe I need.. But on the flip-side, they have way more shades/colors to choose from. Another thing I wish they'd offer is more cable comb options as I want the full coverage ones, not the snap-in ones. I'd prefer aluminum to match my rig better. 

I also don't like blanket-badmouthing companies, I really like CM's widebeam LEDs, for instance. It's not like they're constantly churning out crap products, as is obvious with your purchase. It just seems to happen often with them.

@Revan654 also mentions in the sleeving thread that Singularity uses better quality connectors, gold-plated I believe as well. I plan to go with them. A full set is gonna be a pretty penny with dual GPUs!


----------



## CptAsian

KCDC said:


> I agree with you, I did like the visual element in CMs configurator, I had to have two windows open with the color options in one and the config page on the other for the other two, and it seems Mod-One is still out of stock of the combs I prefer for the 14-pin PCIe I need.. But on the flip-side, they have way more shades/colors to choose from. Another thing I wish they'd offer is more cable comb options as I want the full coverage ones, not the snap-in ones. I'd prefer aluminum to match my rig better.
> 
> I also don't like blanket-badmouthing companies, I really like CM's widebeam LEDs, for instance. It's not like they're constantly churning out crap products, as is obvious with your purchase. It just seems to happen often with them.
> 
> @Revan654 also mentions in the sleeving thread that Singularity uses better quality connectors, gold-plated I believe as well. I plan to go with them. A full set is gonna be a pretty penny with dual GPUs!


Interesting. I definitely agree, Mod-One's color options are more comprehensive, which I like.

But I estimated the price increase with Mod-One's alternative options to what I purchased from CableMod, and I estimate it to be about 50-60% more expensive, and that's worth it to some people. It's good to have those options for cheapos like me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I do like the closed Combs that ModOne uses, much easier to use than the clip on version as you can slide them to where you need them.


----------



## Andrew LB

MNMadman said:


> Got mine from ModMyMods for $4 apiece. They have black and nickel.


Last i checked they didn't have 14mm barrow fittings.


----------



## Questors

CptAsian said:


> Why is CableMod out? I got a custom set from them a few months back, and I'm very satisfied with my purchase. (Photo in spoiler.)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


I have had a couple sets of cables made by https://www.ensourced.net/. I am exceedingly happy with their work. I prefer the paracord look to the more plastic look of others. I have tugged, pulled and stretched their heat-shrink-less cables without a failure.


----------



## Revan654

KCDC said:


> I agree with you, I did like the visual element in CMs configurator, I had to have two windows open with the color options in one and the config page on the other for the other two, and it seems Mod-One is still out of stock of the combs I prefer for the 14-pin PCIe I need.. But on the flip-side, they have way more shades/colors to choose from. Another thing I wish they'd offer is more cable comb options as I want the full coverage ones, not the snap-in ones. I'd prefer aluminum to match my rig better.
> 
> I also don't like blanket-badmouthing companies, I really like CM's widebeam LEDs, for instance. It's not like they're constantly churning out crap products, as is obvious with your purchase. It just seems to happen often with them.
> 
> @Revan654 also mentions in the sleeving thread that Singularity uses better quality connectors, gold-plated I believe as well. I plan to go with them. A full set is gonna be a pretty penny with dual GPUs!


You pay for quality parts. I would rather pay a bit more and know extactly what I'm getting and know it will be done correctly. Singularity Computers only does high quality production.

----

You also have Ensourced.net as well. They just launched a visual page for there sleeving(They only use Paracord). Also if you find sleeving you want to use that they don't carry, you can send it to them and they will use to sleeve your cables (Having the store ship it directly to them).

---

Small Rant:

CableMod claim they use high quality products which is BS. I have tore apart one of there cables just to see what they use. There sleeving is pure crap, it's thinner then Paracord 95. They use that sleeving for both there fan cables(Single sleeved) and there 18 AWG PSU cables(Normal & PRO). They just over stretch the sleeving to make it work. 

The wiring is what you can buy for 0.10 for a few feet. Then Connector is HWT which is the cheapest connector you can buy. I don't know about there terminals since it's not marked. It's not Molex (Which is what Mod-One, MFC, & Ensource uses). It's likely un-plated and just flashed.

Then there the whole issue of normal cable having the sleeving pinned to terminals. Which can come out if your not careful (I have a bunch that did). Then there so called PRO cables which is a mess complete at times, they don't properly route the wires properly and there heatshrink is not done correctly. They claim they have zero complaints about PRO series and yet I know atlease two have complained. They have to fight with CableMod to get it corrected which brings up final point They lie there asses off to there consumer. I have caught them in atlease six lies.

One last thing, This may or may not be an issue for some, They still use old Pinouts for there PSU cables. 

----

Do you want something like this(CableMod):


















or Something like this that's done Right(MDPC-X):


----------



## Contagion

Finished up my first hardline build last night. Based it off of Jayztwocents' 1800x build which, coincidently enough is the same CPU I'm running.

Quick video of it running.


----------



## Radnad

Revan654 said:


> You pay for quality parts. I would rather pay a bit more and know extactly what I'm getting and know it will be done correctly. Singularity Computers only does high quality production.
> 
> ----
> 
> You also have Ensourced.net as well. They just launched a visual page for there sleeving(They only use Paracord). Also if you find sleeving you want to use that they don't carry, you can send it to them and they will use to sleeve your cables (Having the store ship it directly to them).
> 
> ---
> 
> Small Rant:
> 
> CableMod claim they use high quality products which is BS. I have tore apart one of there cables just to see what they use. There sleeving is pure crap, it's thinner then Paracord 95. They use that sleeving for both there fan cables(Single sleeved) and there 18 AWG PSU cables(Normal & PRO). They just over stretch the sleeving to make it work.
> 
> The wiring is what you can buy for 0.10 for a few feet. Then Connector is HWT which is the cheapest connector you can buy. I don't know about there terminals since it's not marked. It's not Molex (Which is what Mod-One, MFC, & Ensource uses). It's likely un-plated and just flashed.
> 
> Then there the whole issue of normal cable having the sleeving pinned to terminals. Which can come out if your not careful (I have a bunch that did). Then there so called PRO cables which is a mess complete at times, they don't properly route the wires properly and there heatshrink is not done correctly. They claim they have zero complaints about PRO series and yet I know atlease two have complained. They have to fight with CableMod to get it corrected which brings up final point They lie there asses off to there consumer. I have caught them in atlease six lies.
> 
> One last thing, This may or may not be an issue for some, They still use old Pinouts for there PSU cables.
> 
> ----
> 
> Do you want something like this(CableMod):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or Something like this that's done Right(MDPC-X):



Your rant is def "imo", because I've been using them for several builds now and haven't had any issues. Based on performance/quality per cost, Cablemod beats them all imo.


----------



## Revan654

Radnad said:


> Your rant is def "imo", because I've been using them for several builds now and haven't had any issues. Based on performance/quality per cost, Cablemod beats them all imo.


Not an opinion when there Proof that there supplies are low quality.

Ensource.net beats CableMod and there hand made too.

https://instagram.***c1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/vp/b656daa5fcde6e12f6f5afc3ea908562/5B0F22FE/t51.2885-15/e35/25038855_396040617499200_26018641296228352_n.jpg

You also have to take into account that CableMod is machine made, Ensource.net, Mod-One and singularity computers are all hand made using better parts.

Building your own will beat everything.


----------



## aaronstransam

Sneak peek at my new project. Got a extreme 400 to fit in a view 31. Modded 2 CM 200mm with addressable rgbs to act like LL fans and got the corsair Proprietary 4 pins off ebay. Working perfect with link software. Now just gotta wait for the 360 multiport to get in and see if it will mate up (port to port) with a male by male. Should have about 3mm to spare


----------



## MNMadman

Are there different versions of the Nemesis GTX radiators? The reviews I read all said they had the fin/tube protection plates below the fan mount screw holes, but the 480 GTX I just got from Performance PCs doesn't have them. I've never had a problem with damaging the fins/tubes before, but I was expecting the plates to be there.


----------



## Revan654

MNMadman said:


> Are there different versions of the Nemesis GTX radiators? The reviews I read all said they had the fin/tube protection plates below the fan mount screw holes, but the 480 GTX I just got from Performance PCs doesn't have them. I've never had a problem with damaging the fins/tubes before, but I was expecting the plates to be there.


I know the SR-2 has them. For GTX Unless there been a revision since 2015, they don't have the screw shields.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Temperature sensors are pretty pointless it seems, but still interesting to see the temp differences I quess ?


----------



## VSG

Revan654 said:


> I know the SR-2 has them. For GTX Unless there been a revision since 2015, they don't have the screw shields.


It would have been nice if you had quoted the source of that picture too 

But as can be seen, the fan holes are offset from the tubes in this case so at most you will pierce the fins but not the tubes.


----------



## Revan654

geggeg said:


> It would have been nice if you had quoted the source of that picture too
> 
> But as can be seen, the fan holes are offset from the tubes in this case so at most you will pierce the fins but not the tubes.


Why? I was just using it as an example. Since at the time I couldn't find the photo I took(I have way to many photos uploaded to imgur). It came from Google Image search, which then came from imgur.


----------



## VSG

Revan654 said:


> Why? I was just using it as an example. Since at the time I couldn't find the photo I took(I have way to many photos uploaded to imgur). It came from Google Image search, which then came from imgur.


That's my image used on my website, but if you got it from my Imgur account then no biggie.


----------



## Radnad

Revan654 said:


> Not an opinion when there Proof that there supplies are low quality.
> 
> Ensource.net beats CableMod and there hand made too.
> 
> https://instagram.***c1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/vp/b656daa5fcde6e12f6f5afc3ea908562/5B0F22FE/t51.2885-15/e35/25038855_396040617499200_26018641296228352_n.jpg
> 
> You also have to take into account that CableMod is machine made, Ensource.net, Mod-One and singularity computers are all hand made using better parts.
> 
> Building your own will beat everything.


Can you please post the source that states cablemod are machine made and inferior to other sleeving companies?


----------



## Spawne32

Andrew LB said:


> Last i checked they didn't have 14mm barrow fittings.


12/14/16mm for rigid tubing, i have their inventory list and MSRP pricing for retailers


----------



## Ceadderman

Radnad said:


> Your rant is def "imo", because I've been using them for several builds now and haven't had any issues. Based on performance/quality per cost, Cablemod beats them all imo.


MDPC-x is light years better than that Paracord. Just wish Revan posted pics of the pins from Cablemod. Those others are the bizniz. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Revan654

Radnad said:


> Can you please post the source that states cablemod are machine made and inferior to other sleeving companies?


CableMod them selves (There Rep on another forum). Only way to get to double crimp wires, Sleeve and then crimped to the terminal is with machines. 

I already covered the sleeving part in previous post.


----------



## Revan654

Revan654 said:


> CableMod them selves (There Rep on another forum). Only way to get to double crimp wires, Sleeve and then crimped to the terminal is with machines.
> 
> I already covered the sleeving part in previous post.





Ceadderman said:


> MDPC-x is light years better than that Paracord. Just wish Revan posted pics of the pins from Cablemod. Those others are the bizniz. :thumb:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


There nothing special about them, There your average Unplated OEM terminals. I have no idea from what brand they come from.


----------



## Andrew LB

Spawne32 said:


> 12/14/16mm for rigid tubing, i have their inventory list and MSRP pricing for retailers


Where on modmymods.com can you find 14mm barrow fittings? That's what i was referring to.


----------



## Revan654

Andrew LB said:


> Where on modmymods.com can you find 14mm barrow fittings? That's what i was referring to.


ModmyMods does not carry 14mm fittings only 12 and 16mm. You have to look else where for 14mm.


----------



## IT Diva

Working on a little custom res, made the old skool way for expedience, as my CNC has yet to be cleared by customs, and more importantly, I'll need time to learn to use it.


I needed a pump/res setup to fit into the front end of the top, (GPU) compartment of a windowed TriStellar case.


Should look nice all polished up and with the LED strip around the perimeter, and it leaves still enough length for a top tier GPU.


----------



## khemist

Latest in my Fractal R6.


----------



## KCDC

*My first rigid/glass tube build!*

Aside from one tube being slightly askew, I am pretty happy with my first rigid tube build, and glass! Mayhems 12mm glass tubing, Phanteks 12mm rigid fittings. Aside from one tube being too large to fit in the fittings, the fitment was perfect, these viton o-rings can take a lot of abuse and still seal perfectly. Using a tiny amount of silicone grease on the o-rings helped get the tubes to fit snug, as it was rather tough trying to slide them in when dry. Also, the use of a diamond wheel on a Dremel at 80% speed was the way to cut glass the best and chamfer the edges rounded and smooth so as not to cut the rings. Proper eye, nose and mouth protection of course, ya don't wanna breathe that in!
EDIT: I am swapping cables hopefully soon, the GPU cables kill me! Just can't make a decision on colors.

Took some semi-decent pics recently With PrimoChill Vue UV Blue SX fluid (can't figure out how to "spoiler" attachments, apologies):


----------



## Goofy Flow

My build just finished, if you guys are interested let me know in my log thread:

http://www.overclock.net/forum/26709233-post113.html

Here just a couple of Pics...


----------



## nanotm

KCDC said:


> Aside from one tube being slightly askew, I am pretty happy with my first rigid tube build, and glass! Mayhems 12mm glass tubing, Phanteks 12mm rigid fittings. Aside from one tube being too large to fit in the fittings, the fitment was perfect, these viton o-rings can take a lot of abuse and still seal perfectly. Using a tiny amount of silicone grease on the o-rings helped get the tubes to fit snug, as it was rather tough trying to slide them in when dry. Also, the use of a diamond wheel on a Dremel at 80% speed was the way to cut glass the best and chamfer the edges rounded and smooth so as not to cut the rings. Proper eye, nose and mouth protection of course, ya don't wanna breathe that in!
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I am swapping cables hopefully soon, the GPU cables kill me! Just can't make a decision on colors.
> 
> 
> 
> Took some semi-decent pics recently With PrimoChill Vue UV Blue SX fluid (can't figure out how to "spoiler" attachments, apologies):


you [] with the word spoiler inside to open it and [] /spoiler inside to close it 


Spoiler



doesn't look to bad either


----------



## KCDC

nanotm said:


> you [] with the word spoiler inside to open it and [] /spoiler inside to close it
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> doesn't look to bad either


thx mate


----------



## Hefner

Hello everyone!

I'm about to do my first big maintenance this weekend on my EK copper gpu/cpu blocks. Since they're copper blocks, I'm expected some oxidation. I heard that lemon juice is good for cleaning copper, is this true? Can lemon juice do any damage to acetal? Also, is rubbing alcohol safe to use with acetal? 

Any other tips will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## DarthBaggins

If you're going to do the lemon juice method it's best to take the blocks apart for this so you don't run the risk of damaging any of the plastic components.


----------



## BramSLI1

Hefner said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I'm about to do my first big maintenance this weekend on my EK copper gpu/cpu blocks. Since they're copper blocks, I'm expected some oxidation. I heard that lemon juice is good for cleaning copper, is this true? Can lemon juice do any damage to acetal? Also, is rubbing alcohol safe to use with acetal?
> 
> Any other tips will be greatly appreciated.


You don't want to use alcohol on acetal. It can deform it from what I can recall.


----------



## SavantStrike

Hefner said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I'm about to do my first big maintenance this weekend on my EK copper gpu/cpu blocks. Since they're copper blocks, I'm expected some oxidation. I heard that lemon juice is good for cleaning copper, is this true? Can lemon juice do any damage to acetal? Also, is rubbing alcohol safe to use with acetal?
> 
> Any other tips will be greatly appreciated.


The oxidation should be minimal if you used distilled water - even more minimal if you used a corrosion inhibitor.

If you're trying to remove deposits, an acid would be ideal vs alcohol. Lemon juice or good old fashioned white vinegar are good choices. The most important step is to flush your loop thoroughly after using anything organic. Both vinegar and lemon juice can create an environment for biologicals to grow in 

Alcohol shouldn't pose too much of a problem if you wipe it off right away - acetone is the solvent that instantly wrecks many plastics.

A simple flush with distilled water and a little white vinegar followed by one or two flushes with straight distilled well suffice. Add water treatment on the second flush if you don't get a lot of gunk on the first flush.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Alcohol will destroy a lot of plastics. 

Nice build Goofy Flow. You do know an Orca is a killer Whale and Jaws was a great White Shark, right?


----------



## taowulf

pc-illiterate said:


> Alcohol will destroy a lot of plastics.
> 
> Nice build Goofy Flow. You do know an Orca is a killer Whale and Jaws was a great White Shark, right?


That was bugging me until I remembered the boat was called the Orca. 

Been a while since I watched Jaws.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hopefully this summer I can get photos of the Orca II on Nantucket (where Jaws was originally based, but the film crew got off on the wrong island lol)


----------



## Amfamora

Second build has begun in my 900D.

Simple blacked out theme. Glass Barrow Res and D5 Vario pump mounted. 

360 x 50mm top rad in push/pull clears with about 10mm gap.

280mm rad on the front. 

Noctua 2000rpm Industrial fans all round with black chroma corner rubbers.

14mm PETG with Barrow fittings.


----------



## Andrew LB

Revan654 said:


> ModmyMods does not carry 14mm fittings only 12 and 16mm. You have to look else where for 14mm.


That was my point the whole time.


----------



## Archea47

What's recommended these days for system flushing? I've used Mayhems Blitz in the past but having difficulty finding it in stock and perhaps there are better approaches and tools

Situation: System has 6 radiators; 3 240s and 3 360s, average thickness >60mm. System currently has 2 acrylic GPU blocks, acrylic CPU block, and two nickel mobo blocks. Mayhems Pastel White coolant, which has been in there for approx 2 years. The rig regularly sits for a week or two without use, so probably a fair amount of sediment from the Pastel(?)

I'd like to drain the system, then hook up the intake for the 2x D5s with a bucket full of distilled water. Pump that through the loop into another bucket, maybe 5 or 10 gallons of flush? Until it's starting to look clean. Then fill it with some sort of cleaning agent that won't destroy the acrylic (I'm replacing the motherboard and assoc' blocks but keeping the GPUs and their blocks) and let that pump through for an hour. Then flush again before the final fill. I also admittedly have some soft tubing in the pedestal I'd rather not destroy with detergent

Suggestions? Vinegar, soap, commercial products like Blitz, how long to pump it through, etc.


----------



## feznz

Archea47 said:


> What's recommended these days for system flushing? I've used Mayhems Blitz in the past but having difficulty finding it in stock and perhaps there are better approaches and tools
> 
> Situation: System has 6 radiators; 3 240s and 3 360s, average thickness >60mm. System currently has 2 acrylic GPU blocks, acrylic CPU block, and two nickel mobo blocks. Mayhems Pastel White coolant, which has been in there for approx 2 years. The rig regularly sits for a week or two without use, so probably a fair amount of sediment from the Pastel(?)
> 
> I'd like to drain the system, then hook up the intake for the 2x D5s with a bucket full of distilled water. Pump that through the loop into another bucket, maybe 5 or 10 gallons of flush? Until it's starting to look clean. Then fill it with some sort of cleaning agent that won't destroy the acrylic (I'm replacing the motherboard and assoc' blocks but keeping the GPUs and their blocks) and let that pump through for an hour. Then flush again before the final fill. I also admittedly have some soft tubing in the pedestal I'd rather not destroy with detergent
> 
> Suggestions? Vinegar, soap, commercial products like Blitz, how long to pump it through, etc.


thats kinda what I was planning on doing except loop back to the same bucket for an hour with hot water with an 80w pump for this not using the D5 for this and disassemble the blocks and physically clean them out.
Planning on using a citric acid based cleaner as strong enough to dissolve metal oxides but too weak to dissolve metal my favourite for cleaning rusty metal.
then repeat with clean water several times just to be sure, planning on using Mayems white pastel for the first time after 5+ years of car grade antifreeze 
Ordered last night so should be here for next weekend.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Finally got a couple runs finished, so now I can pull the GPU and drill out for the pass-thru's (will be covering the board etc to protect it)


----------



## Amfamora

Leak testing. So far so good.

First attempt at hardline 

Two tubes could probably square up a bit if it starts to bug me. Easier than I thought it would be.


----------



## nycgtr

Quick question for you guys here. I got a 360 with 2 txps attached to it. TLDR my idle water temp is 4c above ambient on this loop but my loaded oc water temps are atrocious. We are talking 51c here lol. However, the gpus at most 60c with both cranking at 100% for a long period of time. Now I have the option to combine my loops which will add another 360 of space that's current just going to the cpu. I would prefer not to but it's not hard to just combine the two loops. I know d5s should be fine to 60c water temp and petg can handle 70c+ before bad stuff happens. Thoughts?


----------



## SavantStrike

nycgtr said:


> Quick question for you guys here. I got a 360 with 2 txps attached to it. TLDR my idle water temp is 4c above ambient on this loop but my loaded oc water temps are atrocious. We are talking 51c here lol. However, the gpus at most 60c with both cranking at 100% for a long period of time. Now I have the option to combine my loops which will add another 360 of space that's current just going to the cpu. I would prefer not to but it's not hard to just combine the two loops. I know d5s should be fine to 60c water temp and petg can handle 70c+ before bad stuff happens. Thoughts?


Acrylic supposedly doesn't like over 50C, so your bitspower blocks might benefit from dropping water temp.

D5 pumps are rated for between 50-60C depending on what the top is made out of.

I'm still trying to get a handle on the true temp limit of acrylic as it would answer some important questions for me too.

In your case though one big serial loop might be the best design.


----------



## khemist




----------



## bluedevil

khemist said:


>



Looking great khemist! Loving the simplicity!

I have to find a build for this guy.


----------



## nycgtr

SavantStrike said:


> Acrylic supposedly doesn't like over 50C, so your bitspower blocks might benefit from dropping water temp.
> 
> D5 pumps are rated for between 50-60C depending on what the top is made out of.
> 
> I'm still trying to get a handle on the true temp limit of acrylic as it would answer some important questions for me too.
> 
> In your case though one big serial loop might be the best design.


hmm good point. I didn't think too much of the tops on the bp blocks lol.


----------



## iamjanco

khemist said:


> Spoiler


Beautifully clean, like a kitchen floor you can eat off of :thumb:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Andrew LB said:


> That was my point the whole time.


You guys could give an asprin a headache you know? 

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

lmao qft


----------



## iamjanco

TheCautiousOne said:


> You guys could give an aspirin a headache you know?
> 
> TCO


I tend to write it off as the result of OCD (over-clocking disorder?).


----------



## IT Diva

Finally, . . . My CNC cleared Customs this week and I was able to pick it up :thumb:


It takes a while to get it all assembled and set up, but I'm almost there.


Need to run out and get a few gallons of distilled water for the cooling system and some storage bins for the 4th axis and other accessory bits


Then the hard part starts . . . learning how to do something with it . . .


----------



## TheCautiousOne

That's impressive. I have no idea what I would do with one of those. 

TCO


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys the thermal pads that come with EK mosfets, are they one time use or reusable ?


----------



## Qu1ckset

khemist said:


> Spoiler


Define R6 ?
what cpu and gpu and what are your temps on that single 360?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Qu1ckset said:


> Hey guys the thermal pads that come with EK mosfets, are they one time use or reusable ?


Reusable. I use TIM that is supplied by them years after. 

TCO

EDIT: Hold the brakes, you said Thermal Pads. That's questionable. Long as they aren't dried out I suppose.


----------



## KCDC

Qu1ckset said:


> Hey guys the thermal pads that come with EK mosfets, are they one time use or reusable ?



If they look dry and crappy or fell apart, remove.

If they still look like they've got some spring in their step, reuse.


----------



## KCDC

TheCautiousOne said:


> Reusable. I use TIM that is supplied by them years after.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Hold the brakes, you said Thermal Pads. That's questionable. Long as they aren't dried out I suppose.


Interesting, I was always taught to reapply new TIM every time you break the seal. Maybe that's why I'm always broke.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

KCDC said:


> Interesting, I was always taught to reapply new TIM every time you break the seal. Maybe that's why I'm always broke.


Break the seal on the Tube of TIM? 

That I completely disagree with. I have used multiple tubes of TIM over the course of multiple builds. Especially the ones that are supplied with GPU blocks. I haven't bought an actual tube of TIM since 2014? That was around the time of my first build. 

TCO


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## khemist

Qu1ckset said:


> Define R6 ?
> what cpu and gpu and what are your temps on that single 360?





That's after three hours of BF1, 42c on the GPU.

7700k and 1080ti.


----------



## IT Diva

TheCautiousOne said:


> That's impressive. I have no idea what I would do with one of those.
> 
> TCO


 
You could make nice custom reservoirs to fit into unique little nooks or crannies . . . . That look a lot more professional than this "test of concept" one I made the old way.

Like at the front of the GPU cabin of a windowed TriStellar, mated to a DDC 35X for a pretty compact res/pump combo.


Actually, once this one's polished, it may not look too bad


----------



## Qu1ckset

khemist said:


> That's after three hours of BF1, 42c on the GPU.
> 
> 7700k and 1080ti.


Not bad, im waiting on the R6 Blackout to come out, I have it preordered. Im going with a EK 360 Predator (Push/Pull) and EK SE280 (Push) to cool my 4790k, Mobo Mosfet, and 980 Classy. 

im really liking your build with not having a top RAD tho


----------



## khemist

Thanks, i have rads i could stick in the top but the temps are good and it's doing everything i need and i like how it looks also so if i did put one in the top it's just because i want to mess around.

Why are you waiting on the Blackout version?, wont you be taking out the drive caddies and replacing the fans anyway?.


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## Qu1ckset

khemist said:


> Thanks, i have rads i could stick in the top but the temps are good and it's doing everything i need and i like how it looks also so if i did put one in the top it's just because i want to mess around.
> 
> Why are you waiting on the Blackout version?, wont you be taking out the drive caddies and replacing the fans anyway?.


PCI brakets are also white on the case, I've been tempted to just get the normal black one tho


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## khemist

Yeah i got that and ditched the fans, caddies and switched the pci closts to Black.


----------



## keith5

khemist said:


>


What rad do you have in front? Looks great.


----------



## Spawne32

khemist said:


>


fantastic looking setup, you didnt want to go with a colored coolant though?


----------



## khemist

keith5 said:


> What rad do you have in front? Looks great.


XSPC RX360 V3



Spawne32 said:


> fantastic looking setup, you didnt want to go with a colored coolant though?


Thanks, no just clear and some lighting for me.


----------



## Deeptek

khemist said:


> XSPC RX360 V3
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, no just clear and some lighting for me.



Tip of the hat.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The clear looks good & clean. Makes me like the R6 even more, too many cases out or coming out that I want lol.


----------



## KCDC

TheCautiousOne said:


> Break the seal on the Tube of TIM?
> 
> That I completely disagree with. I have used multiple tubes of TIM over the course of multiple builds. Especially the ones that are supplied with GPU blocks. I haven't bought an actual tube of TIM since 2014? That was around the time of my first build.
> 
> TCO



I meant when you pull the heatsink off the IHS or die to remove and reapply new TIM.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

KCDC said:


> I meant when you pull the heatsink off the IHS or die to remove and reapply new TIM.


Ah, on a Delid. What was the original question? 

TCO


----------



## KCDC

TheCautiousOne said:


> Ah, on a Delid. What was the original question?
> 
> TCO


No biggie, it was mentioned that existing thermal paste can be re-used after removing the heatsink. I was always told to remove the paste and apply new paste if the heatsink is ever removed to ensure full coverage. I don't like wasting product, so that's why I brought it up.

Or maybe I misunderstood what was said in the first place.


----------



## muzammil84

Redline RL07 build is completed. a few pics of Project Orion ladies and gentlemen




























































































*full build log with many more pictures can be found here: *

http://www.overclock.net/forum/1808...ored-project-orion-likwid-mods-completed.html


thanks for looking


----------



## nycgtr

Final config in this case. Went thru too many. Potato pics.


----------



## DarthBaggins

muzammil84 said:


> Redline RL07 build is completed. a few pics of Project Orion ladies and gentlemen
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> *full build log with many more pictures can be found here: *
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/1808...ored-project-orion-likwid-mods-completed.html
> 
> 
> thanks for looking


Love that backplate, would go well w/ my Spacebar (I have two different ones) on my Poker II lol. .


----------



## dicom

@muzammil84

How do you make that backplate? I mean, did you paint it or used some sticker?


----------



## muzammil84

dicom said:


> @muzammil84
> 
> How do you make that backplate? I mean, did you paint it or used some sticker?


It's pretty simple tbh. Piece of acrylic and vinyl sticker underneath


----------



## Wolfsbora

Man, I've been missing out on a LOT of great builds in here! I'm getting a ton of inspiration on a build I'm doing. How does everyone feel about copper pipe/tubing still?


----------



## lyquidpcs

*Mighty Nano*

Thank you for viewing the final photos of Project 'Mighty Nano'

Instagram - @lyquid_pcs
If you share my build please tag me via Instagram with credit. I greatly appreciate it.

The handmade full-length custom sleeved cables for this build were created by Wazz Modz
He makes fantastic high quality sleeved custom cables for any rig. He's so awesome to work with striving to create the perfect cables for your build. Highly recommended! Visit him via his website or email him to get a quote. 
https://wazzmodz.com/
Instagram - @WazzModz 


I have a passion for custom built PCs with premium water cooling loop designs. I designed this build as a casual gaming build with some overclocking. This was my second fully custom water cooled build project. I wanted to take on the challenge of a mini-ITX build. I decided to build in the Fractal Design Define Nano S window edition. This case was the perfect choice as it provided the perfect package of features for a fully custom water cooled PC. I chose the i5 7600K as its perfect for casual gaming, overclocking ability, and thermals. Paired up with the ASUS Z270I Gaming mini-ITX motherboard. 

This build process started with staring and pondering how I can fit a full custom loop with two 240mm radiators in the Nano S with a unique design. I decided to go with a purple, black, and chrome theme of the build. Chrome fittings with purple fluid was my initial idea and it turned out wonderfully. I chose to build with EK Water Blocks products for the CPU and GPU, PrimoChill products for the Radiators, reservoir, and compression fittings. I also used Bitspower fittings where I needed angle or splitter fittings. I wanted to install the dual 240mm PrimoChill Eximo Satin Black radiators for optimal cooling temperatures for the overclocked CPU and GPU. I also can't forget to mention the PrimoChill Vue Candy Purple SX coolant is what gives this build its color pop! Huge fan of PrimoChill products!

Before doing any tube bending it's important to plan the whole loop design then mount all the hardware in the case which can be a lengthy process. Initially, at first, I didn't plan on doing much custom modding to this build as I have never done any custom mods previously. I then thought of doing a pass thru implementation in the loop as I've never done it which then led to a modding adventure for this build! The look of the coolant going into the wall and coming out adds a unique look to any loop but comes with a challenge. I ended up cutting out the whole back wall of the Nano S case. I then had a custom cut galvanized piece of sheet metal to replace the wall perfectly. The plate supports the loop pass thru fittings along with the drain port out the back of the PC. This came with the challenge of drilling the holes for the pass thru fittings which has to be measured precisely. After drilling the mount points on the new wall plate and the case itself I then wrapped it in a 3M carbon fiber vinyl to give it a nice touch. 

Then after mounting the plate then I was able to finally start the loop building process. If you're like me the tube bending process can be a very tedious process. Previous experience tube bending helped greatly as I had some tricky bends to complete. I finished the loop after many hours of measuring and bending. Then it came time to fill the loop with the PrimoChill Vue. I'd have to say filling the loop was very a very tricky process with the pump not being right after the reservoir. After some priming and turning and flipping, I was able to get the coolant flow. The next phase came to cutting the custom acrylic side panels. I measured and tapped thumbscrew mounts on each corner to mount the glass. I wanted as much as possible to be visible in the build is why I chose full acrylic glass panels. I sanded and polished the edges on each side of the glass panels. Finally, I knew with this case that the front radiator would be starving for air which is crucial for the custom loop temperatures. I then came up with a design to cut out of the front panel and place in meshing on the backside. I measured and tapped everything first and used a Dremel tool to cut out the design. I learned a lot from this front panel mod as it came with a lot of work with hand filing, sanding, and painting. I think it turned out awesome!


Custom designs and mods:
Custom center fan logos on the Corsair ML120 Pro Fans/
3M carbon fiber wrapped PSU/
Custom pass thru wall plate/
Custom cut drain port out the back panel/
Custom cut full acrylic glass side panels /w tapped screw mounts/
Full custom cut design on the front panel for optimum front air flow


This build was a lot of fun in conquering the mini-ITX full custom loop challenge! I'm very happy with the results and I learned a lot throughout this project! I learned that if you can visualize it with the right tools anything is possible. I can't wait for the next one! Let me know what you think of the build! Thank you so much for viewing!

If you enjoy premium water cooled builds follow me on Instagram @lyquid_pcs


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice, but I think I would have ditched the Corsair logos on the front fans and used the FD Snowflake to tie the logo into the build further (since it's a big feature on the front grill of the case). Good to see people building in the Define Nano, great case imo (loved the one I had)


----------



## Wolfsbora

DarthBaggins said:


> Nice, but I think I would have ditched the Corsair logos on the front fans and used the FD Snowflake to tie the logo into the build further (since it's a big feature on the front grill of the case). Good to see people building in the Define Nano, great case imo (loved the one I had)


I agree with the logos but that is an incredible build, none the less! Pretty cool to see a fellow Nano owner.


----------



## iCrap

You know that old saying.... measure twice, cut once?..... RIP!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

KCDC said:


> No biggie, it was mentioned that existing thermal paste can be re-used after removing the heatsink. I was always told to remove the paste and apply new paste if the heatsink is ever removed to ensure full coverage. I don't like wasting product, so that's why I brought it up.
> 
> Or maybe I misunderstood what was said in the first place.


Re using the same tube of paste, I would do that. Not reuse the thermal paste that is currently on the heatsink. 

Example: I open up the computer and take apart the processor that has thermal paste on it. Clean heatsink and re apply fresh paste. The tube of paste I use to reapply is from the first application that is sealed with the lid.

TCO


----------



## SavantStrike

iCrap said:


> You know that old saying.... measure twice, cut once?..... RIP!


I take it the VRMs on the TI were in a different place than on the 1080?


----------



## iCrap

SavantStrike said:


> I take it the VRMs on the TI were in a different place than on the 1080?



Well, ASUS screwed me HARD. I sent in a 1080ti Founders and they sent me back a 1080ti TURBO. The PCB is every so slighty different, so yea VRMS were hitting. I thought to myself... no big deal, I have a CNC... I can fix this. 

Well, you can see how that turned out lol.

I found a EK Thermosphere universal block locally today so now I'm just installing that.


----------



## jura11

iCrap said:


> Well, ASUS screwed me HARD. I sent in a 1080ti Founders and they sent me back a 1080ti TURBO. The PCB is every so slighty different, so yea VRMS were hitting. I thought to myself... no big deal, I have a CNC... I can fix this.
> 
> Well, you can see how that turned out lol.
> 
> I found a EK Thermosphere universal block locally today so now I'm just installing that.


Hi there 

What I know only Bykski making block for Asus GTX1080Ti Turbo

Friend bought same card and he thought so same,he can get waterblock easy from EK or Bitspower etc but only one company which is making block for Turbo models is Bykski

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## DarthBaggins

I Thought Bitspower made a block for the Turbo as well. . 
Bitspower Asus GTX 1080 Ti Turbo Block










Part Number: BP-WBV1080TIAT​


----------



## iCrap

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> What I know only Bykski making block for Asus GTX1080Ti Turbo
> 
> Friend bought same card and he thought so same,he can get waterblock easy from EK or Bitspower etc but only one company which is making block for Turbo models is Bykski
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


If you know where I can get one in the U.S that would be good, but i cant find one



DarthBaggins said:


> I Thought Bitspower made a block for the Turbo as well. .
> Bitspower Asus GTX 1080 Ti Turbo Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part Number: BP-WBV1080TIAT​




I saw this, but only performance-pcs has a listing and its out of stock. I emailed and asked but no reply yet, I also emailed modmymods as well. If you know where i can find one that would be great.



My EK thermosphere solution is reall y not great. the card is super super hot.... need a real full cover block.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Last time I ordered a Bitspower block for a GPU DaxMode was the only one who carried it for my 970 Strix (Before EK made one)


----------



## huzzug

What is a good place to buy fittings? Been a long time since I researched about them but the last time when I did, PerformancePcs was recommended. Then the news about them getting shut down hit and am cautious about ordering from them. Where do you guys generally buy from? The hardware:

Ryzen 1700
MSI X370 SLI Plus
RX580 ASUS SRIX

The graphic card is going to stay on Air for now. We're trying to go rigid. Where would be a good place to start?


----------



## DarthBaggins

huzzug said:


> What is a good place to buy fittings? Been a long time since I researched about them but the last time when I did, PerformancePcs was recommended. Then the news about them getting shut down hit and am cautious about ordering from them. Where do you guys generally buy from? The hardware:
> 
> Ryzen 1700
> MSI X370 SLI Plus
> RX580 ASUS SRIX
> 
> The graphic card is going to stay on Air for now. We're trying to go rigid. Where would be a good place to start?


PPC's wasn't the one who shutdown, that was FrozenCPU. Personally I would order from PPC's if you don't have somewhere local to buy them (like a MicroCenter or Frys)


----------



## taowulf

huzzug said:


> What is a good place to buy fittings? Been a long time since I researched about them but the last time when I did, PerformancePcs was recommended. Then the news about them getting shut down hit and am cautious about ordering from them. Where do you guys generally buy from? The hardware:
> 
> Ryzen 1700
> MSI X370 SLI Plus
> RX580 ASUS SRIX
> 
> The graphic card is going to stay on Air for now. We're trying to go rigid. Where would be a good place to start?


Wait, what rumor about PPCS getting shut down?


----------



## huzzug

I fudged. It was Frozen I was thinking but wrote PerformancePcs. Sorry.


----------



## taowulf

huzzug said:


> I fudged. It was Frozen I was thinking but wrote PerformancePcs. Sorry.


These things happen. Performance PCS is fine, they are not the quickest or cheapest shipping but the OCN discount code or the frequent sales codes they have can offset that.

As far as other alternatives, there are a few sellers on Amazon, like TitanRig, that have an OK selection. If you are patient, aliexpress has a lot of Barrow and Byski options for super cheap. But shipping takes quite a while from China.


----------



## huzzug

Are the one's from Barrow and Byski good compared with Bitspower and Monsoon and the likes available stateside?


----------



## taowulf

huzzug said:


> Are the one's from Barrow and Byski good compared with Bitspower and Monsoon and the likes available stateside?


There is a sizable Barrow thread discussing their products. Some people will rain that Barrow and Byski are cheap knockoffs, but judge for yourself.

From the Barrow products I've received so far, the quality is good and the price is reasonable. I've gotten some from Titan Rig and a couple other sellers on Amazon, but other online shops carry them domestically as well. Performance PCS and a few others. They are nice alternatives to the higher prices of the "normal" manufacturers. The build I am working on right now will be a mix of Bitspower, Monsoon, Barrow and Byski.


----------



## huzzug

taowulf said:


> There is a sizable Barrow thread discussing their products. Some people will rain that Barrow and Byski are cheap knockoffs, but judge for yourself.
> 
> From the Barrow products I've received so far, the quality is good and the price is reasonable. I've gotten some from Titan Rig and a couple other sellers on Amazon, but other online shops carry them domestically as well. Performance PCS and a few others. They are nice alternatives to the higher prices of the "normal" manufacturers. The build I am working on right now will be a mix of Bitspower, Monsoon, Barrow and Byski.


If you had the money to spend, what fitting would you get? Also, what tubing if I go with rigid?


----------



## taowulf

huzzug said:


> If you had the money to spend, what fitting would you get? Also, what tubing if I go with rigid?


For me the choices I made were more based on looks for things like the rigid fittings I chose, which are the Monsoon economy in orange (not many orange fittings out there) and they have a clean look. I stuck with Monsoon for the rigid tube as well, as there isn't a lot of conformity out there for rigid tubing sizes. For the other bits and pieces, if the less expensive option (like Barrow) looked good, that was what I got.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

huzzug said:


> If you had the money to spend, what fitting would you get? Also, what tubing if I go with rigid?


12mm Tubing. Bitspower Crystal tubing/ Non champher. Bitspower 12mm fittings. 

TCO


----------



## ThrashZone

DarthBaggins said:


> I Thought Bitspower made a block for the Turbo as well. .
> Bitspower Asus GTX 1080 Ti Turbo Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part Number: BP-WBV1080TIAT​


Hi,
That is one horrible website


----------



## TheCautiousOne

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> That is one horrible website


Yea, the actual bitspower website is really hard to navigate. 

TCO


----------



## ThrashZone

TheCautiousOne said:


> Yea, the actual bitspower website is really hard to navigate.
> 
> TCO


Hi,
Yeah I was looking at for a evga 1080ti ftw3 block and came up with nothing 
Really came up with nothing on any NVidia gpu's


----------



## TheCautiousOne

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I was looking at for a evga 1080ti ftw3 block and came up with nothing
> Really came up with nothing on any NVidia gpu's


If EK still has the Cooling Configurator, you could try them. Other than that, I am not sure. Been out of the block market for a couple years now. 

TCO


----------



## flipmcneil

I'm fairly new here and thought I'd post my latest build. Finished it last week.


----------



## ThrashZone

TheCautiousOne said:


> If EK still has the Cooling Configurator, you could try them. Other than that, I am not sure. Been out of the block market for a couple years now.
> 
> TCO


Hi,
Yeah just looking for an alternative block manufacture EK all they have is nickle 
I was wanting another copper plated one like EK had for the titan Xp.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice going Flip :thumb:

I took the easy way out and used flex tubing for now


----------



## flipmcneil

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nice going Flip :thumb:
> 
> I took the easy way out and used flex tubing for now


Looks good. I like the green!


----------



## DarthBaggins

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> That is one horrible website


Yeah BitsPower's site is very bad, but that's why I posted a part number too lol


and found your FTW3 block:

Bitspower EVGA GTX1080 Ti Block


----------



## jura11

iCrap said:


> If you know where I can get one in the U.S that would be good, but i cant find one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw this, but only performance-pcs has a listing and its out of stock. I emailed and asked but no reply yet, I also emailed modmymods as well. If you know where i can find one that would be great.
> 
> 
> 
> My EK thermosphere solution is reall y not great. the card is super super hot.... need a real full cover block.



Hi there 

Not sure if you can find this block over in US, but you can try have look for this part number 
Bykski N-AS1080TI-TURBO-X

Over on Aliexpress cost around 86USD and postage took from China to UK 1 week in my case when I bought few Bykski blocks for friend build 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## TheCautiousOne

DarthBaggins said:


> Yeah BitsPower's site is very bad, but that's why I posted a part number too lol
> 
> 
> and found your FTW3 block:
> 
> Bitspower EVGA GTX1080 Ti Block


Cross ref to PPC. 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-vga-block-1080tievf-rgb-nickel-acrylic.html

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Finally got my little Tt Core X1 build done, after being all but wiped out by the hurricanes last September . . .


Now I have space to get serious on the TriStellar builds . . . .


Tri - Hexial, the siamesed pair, 


and a window version TriStellar build which I haven't named yet.




Not too shabby for a ~$100 case:


----------



## alienalvan

Love the top rainbow lightning~


----------



## fearthisneo

Finished my Define R6 build a dew days ago figured I'd share it.


----------



## MNMadman

fearthisneo said:


> Finished my Define R6 build a dew days ago figured I'd share it.


Nice.

I would have put Mayhems Pastel in there -- one of the greys or white.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## alienalvan

Jameswalt1 said:


>


Nice build but just a little flaws on SLi bridge, make a custom LED shielding to it will be perfect.


----------



## Jameswalt1

alienalvan said:


> Nice build but just a little flaws on SLi bridge, make a custom LED shielding to it will be perfect.


Thanks, yeah that SLI Bridge is temporary


----------



## nickbaldwin86




----------



## CptAsian

I think this may be relevant to some of the folks in here.
https://www.ekwb.com/news/an-apology-from-ek-to-the-enthusiasts/


----------



## iCrap

I just saw this today...... damnit. Anyone know if EK has any warranty on this stuff? I try not to overtighten my fittings so no idea how this happened.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

iCrap said:


> I just saw this today...... damnit. Anyone know if EK has any warranty on this stuff? I try not to overtighten my fittings so no idea how this happened.


Buy a metal top. You do not need to overtighten for that to happen. Temp of the loop has an effect, also that 45-degree fitting can weigh down.


----------



## zoson

iCrap said:


> I just saw this today...... damnit. Anyone know if EK has any warranty on this stuff? I try not to overtighten my fittings so no idea how this happened.


If you use an organic solvent (such as rubbing alcohol) to clean acrylic, it can cause this. Telltale sign of something like this is the fogging of the acrylic itself. Can't quite tell if it's just your coolant or if the top has fogged.


----------



## ThrashZone

iCrap said:


> I just saw this today...... damnit. Anyone know if EK has any warranty on this stuff? I try not to overtighten my fittings so no idea how this happened.


Hi,
Yeah those are some nasty cracks going on there :/
Not sure that block is worth the shipping costs to rma ?


----------



## emsj86

Sad to see threads and a website I visited daily come to the point where I visit once a week bc there are little to no updates. Ever since this new “improved site” it’s been dead


----------



## nycgtr

iCrap said:


> I just saw this today...... damnit. Anyone know if EK has any warranty on this stuff? I try not to overtighten my fittings so no idea how this happened.


Tbh, Ive only seen this happen on EK plexi blocks lol. I had it happen to my plexi supremacy as well and not even over tightening. That layer of acrylic is thin.


----------



## KCDC

iCrap said:


> I just saw this today...... damnit. Anyone know if EK has any warranty on this stuff? I try not to overtighten my fittings so no idea how this happened.


It's happened to me. EK will ship a replacement top to you, for a price of course. Since the fault lies with user error, I doubt they'd honor a RMA replacement. Make sure to get extra o-rings as well. Just don't overtighten on the new one. The O-rings make the seal, not tightness.:thumb:


----------



## iCrap

ZealotKi11er said:


> Buy a metal top. You do not need to overtighten for that to happen. Temp of the loop has an effect, also that 45-degree fitting can weigh down.


Yeah i guess i'll just get a metal top. The 45 i only put in recently though so i dunno if that caused it. water temp is usually like 35c i think. 



zoson said:


> If you use an organic solvent (such as rubbing alcohol) to clean acrylic, it can cause this. Telltale sign of something like this is the fogging of the acrylic itself. Can't quite tell if it's just your coolant or if the top has fogged.


Ive never wiped it with anything. I only use compressed air on it. I dunno why its foggy though. the res is clear.


----------



## Contagion

Panic aside, my new build went together with only moderate amounts of cussing.

https://imgur.com/gallery/oWMil


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Contagion said:


> Panic aside, my new build went together with only moderate amounts of cussing.
> 
> https://imgur.com/gallery/oWMil


You mounted it on the wall?


----------



## Contagion

nickbaldwin86 said:


> You mounted it on the wall?


This is OCN. We go hard here.


----------



## Qu1ckset

How does EK-DuraClear compare to Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Crystal Clear?

Primochill used to be my go to soft tubing, but its rarely in stock and no one locally stocks it in the size I need. 

is the EK-DuraClear equally as good? Last the same before fogging or plasticizer take over?


----------



## Ithanul

emsj86 said:


> Sad to see threads and a website I visited daily come to the point where I visit once a week bc there are little to no updates. Ever since this new “improved site” it’s been dead


Well, the current state of the forum design is crappy. Probably was a huge turn off for some folks. Myself, I keep having issues with login and the site acting like ****** in the sub thread area.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Qu1ckset said:


> How does EK-DuraClear compare to Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Crystal Clear?
> 
> Primochill used to be my go to soft tubing, but its rarely in stock and no one locally stocks it in the size I need.
> 
> is the EK-DuraClear equally as good? Last the same before fogging or plasticizer take over?


The EK is a bit better imo, but for clear I tend to use PETG or Acrylic and use ZMT for soft tubing


----------



## KCDC

Qu1ckset said:


> How does EK-DuraClear compare to Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Crystal Clear?
> 
> Primochill used to be my go to soft tubing, but its rarely in stock and no one locally stocks it in the size I need.
> 
> is the EK-DuraClear equally as good? Last the same before fogging or plasticizer take over?


Personally, I felt that the Duraclear got cloudy a lot faster than the latest advanced LRT.

Tried Duraclear twice with same results, within a month cloudy as hell. 

LRT had at least 3-4 months on the Duraclear before getting really cloudy from my experience. Always found it on Amazon, not sure about Canada.

like @DarthBaggins, I've switched to rigid tubing, got tired of swapping soft tubing out every 3 months just to get rid of the fogginess and plasticizer getting in my rads and blocks. That crap is annoying to get rid of.

Tygon makes a non-plasticizer tube, but it's harder to work with as far as fittings due to it's softness and not as attractive, I believe it has print on the tubing. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. PPCS has it.

E-1000, I was gonna try it, but it is warned that it's much softer and may not be as compatible with some fittings:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/plasticizer-free-tubing


----------



## MNMadman

Weird. I've been using Advanced LRT for years and never had cloudiness or plasticizer at all. And every one of my builds has gone at least a year (in one case 26 months) without maintenance beyond topping up the reservoir.

Coolants used: Distilled water plus killcoil, EK EKoolant Clear, Thermaltake UV Green transparent.

I will be using Mayhems Pastel Yellow with Advanced LRT in *Heatripper Threadkiller*'s loop.


----------



## ruffhi

Waterkiller just mentioned new plasticizer-free tubing ...



Watercool-Jakob said:


> *New Tubing:*
> 
> And we got ANOTHER set of new products: EPDM tubing. These tubes are completely plasticizer-free, very kink-resistant, black matte, without any imprint - the perfect choice for performance-oriented enthusiasts! We offer them in ID 3/8" - 1/2" OD (13/10mm) and ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD (16/10mm). Check it all out!!!


----------



## jura11

Qu1ckset said:


> How does EK-DuraClear compare to Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Crystal Clear?
> 
> Primochill used to be my go to soft tubing, but its rarely in stock and no one locally stocks it in the size I need.
> 
> is the EK-DuraClear equally as good? Last the same before fogging or plasticizer take over?



Hi there 

Personally I would stay away from EK DuraClear, my DuraClear went cloudy or started to yellowing after 2-3 months, my water temperature never been higher than 32°C 

Regarding the LRT, tried as well and my tubing lasted around same as DuraClear and then started to yellowing or went cloudy due this I simply cannot recommend both tubing 

But agree with ZMT or as above Watercool EPDM tubing if you want tubing which is matte black 

For coloured tubing have look on Mayhems UV White tubing or clear tubing, have used both tubing and still using their UV White 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## aka13

emsj86 said:


> Sad to see threads and a website I visited daily come to the point where I visit once a week bc there are little to no updates. Ever since this new “improved site” it’s been dead


Yeah, I agree. The experience went from "enjoyable" to "unusable" for me.


----------



## Kimir

Agreed.
We went from Huddler to vBulletin, and yesterday Hwbot went from vBulletin to Invision. :rolleyess
Invision looks much cleaner.


----------



## Qu1ckset

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> Personally I would stay away from EK DuraClear, my DuraClear went cloudy or started to yellowing after 2-3 months, my water temperature never been higher than 32°C
> 
> Regarding the LRT, tried as well and my tubing lasted around same as DuraClear and then started to yellowing or went cloudy due this I simply cannot recommend both tubing
> 
> But agree with ZMT or as above Watercool EPDM tubing if you want tubing which is matte black
> 
> For coloured tubing have look on Mayhems UV White tubing or clear tubing, have used both tubing and still using their UV White
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


So mayhem’s is better then LRT ? 

Seems everyone says ek-duraclear is crap in this thread. 

I’d love to do hard tubing but I don’t think I have the patience for that , bending looks hard lol


----------



## DerComissar

Qu1ckset said:


> So mayhem’s is better then LRT ?
> 
> Seems everyone says ek-duraclear is crap in this thread.
> 
> I’d love to do hard tubing but I don’t think I have the patience for that , bending looks hard lol


I bought some Mayhems soft tubing for my loop upgrade from Dazmode a while ago:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ultra-clear-tubing-12-34-1319mm-tubing/

I haven't installed it yet, but fast-fate did a good comparison review on it:
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/


----------



## SpikeV

. . . the build is starting the install of the boro Glass Dragon Tubes custom made by featured artist Garrett Brebes of PISMO BEACH, CA

it's a long way from Pismo Beach to the outlands of Denmark . . . but Garrett was super to work with in order to make this happen . . . 










. . . 12mm Lab quality borosilicate glass tubing - annealed and fire polished





























































. . . now to fabricate a Res mount in order to get the positioning spot on


Cheers


----------



## BramSLI1

SpikeV said:


> . . . the build is starting the install of the boro Glass Dragon Tubes custom made by featured artist Garrett Brebes of PISMO BEACH, CA
> 
> it's a long way from Pismo Beach to the outlands of Denmark . . . but Garrett was super to work with in order to make this happen . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . 12mm Lab quality borosilicate glass tubing - annealed and fire polished
> 
> 
> . . . now to fabricate a Res mount in order to get the positioning spot on
> 
> 
> Cheers


Absolutely amazing! Those are going to look gorgeous with some colored coolant going through them!


----------



## LiquidHaus

For those on the fence about what Threadripper block to get...

Look no further than the Heatkiller TR4 Pro.









-


----------



## fakeblood

lifeisshort117 said:


> For those on the fence about what Threadripper block to get...
> 
> Look no further than the Heatkiller TR4 Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -


I love how overly complex your loop is. Reminds me of the old MS screensaver


----------



## WiSK

KCDC said:


> Tygon makes a non-plasticizer tube, but it's harder to work with as far as fittings due to it's softness and not as attractive, I believe it has print on the tubing. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. PPCS has it.
> 
> E-1000, I was gonna try it, but it is warned that it's much softer and may not be as compatible with some fittings:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/plasticizer-free-tubing


I can't believe PPCs are still peddling this as "plasticizer free", after all these years. 

Just look at the page of the manufacturer, Saint Gobain to see that it actually "*contains* non-DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] *plasticizers*"

https://www.processsystems.saint-gobain.com/products/tygon-e-1000-peristaltic-pump-tubing

This non-DEHP formulation is for things like milk and beer dispensers because DEHP phthalates can introduce cancer causing chemicals into your beverages. Any PVC based tubing must contain plasticizers, because without them it would be rigid and brittle. If you want no plasticizers then use rubber hose, or acrylic/PETG.

Anyway, E-1000 is pretty much the worst tubing to use for water cooling. It's cloudy from the start, thin inner wall, the outside is waxy and easy to slip out of compression fittings, and if you are using any kind of dye it will suck it up and leave the water in your reservoir clear!


----------



## Barefooter

I can't wait to see those tubes in the finished product! Going to look totally awesome :thumb:


----------



## KCDC

WiSK said:


> I can't believe PPCs are still peddling this as "plasticizer free", after all these years.
> 
> Just look at the page of the manufacturer, Saint Gobain to see that it actually "*contains* non-DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] *plasticizers*"
> 
> https://www.processsystems.saint-gobain.com/products/tygon-e-1000-peristaltic-pump-tubing
> 
> This non-DEHP formulation is for things like milk and beer dispensers because DEHP phthalates can introduce cancer causing chemicals into your beverages. Any PVC based tubing must contain plasticizers, because without them it would be rigid and brittle. If you want no plasticizers then use rubber hose, or acrylic/PETG.
> 
> Anyway, E-1000 is pretty much the worst tubing to use for water cooling. It's cloudy from the start, thin inner wall, the outside is waxy and easy to slip out of compression fittings, and if you are using any kind of dye it will suck it up and leave the water in your reservoir clear!



Thanks for correcting me, didn't mean to misinform.


----------



## mouacyk

WiSK said:


> I can't believe PPCs are still peddling this as "plasticizer free", after all these years.
> 
> Just look at the page of the manufacturer, Saint Gobain to see that it actually "*contains* non-DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] *plasticizers*"
> 
> https://www.processsystems.saint-gobain.com/products/tygon-e-1000-peristaltic-pump-tubing
> 
> This non-DEHP formulation is for things like milk and beer dispensers because DEHP phthalates can introduce cancer causing chemicals into your beverages. Any PVC based tubing must contain plasticizers, because without them it would be rigid and brittle. If you want no plasticizers then use rubber hose, or acrylic/PETG.
> 
> Anyway, E-1000 is pretty much the worst tubing to use for water cooling. It's cloudy from the start, thin inner wall, the outside is waxy and easy to slip out of compression fittings, and if you are using any kind of dye it will suck it up and leave the water in your reservoir clear!


That's what I use from ppc for nearly 2 years now. No problems yet except all the symptoms you listed are true. Just running distilled now with nuke.

Wished I read more closely.


----------



## Qu1ckset

lifeisshort117 said:


> For those on the fence about what Threadripper block to get...
> 
> Look no further than the Heatkiller TR4 Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -


how come your fluid in the tubes look purple but the blocks look like they have clear fluid... is the tubing just coloured and your using clear fluid ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Qu1ckset said:


> how come your fluid in the tubes look purple but the blocks look like they have clear fluid... is the tubing just coloured and your using clear fluid ?


Yea, tubes are actually probably white. UV Lights do a lot. 

TCO


----------



## jura11

Qu1ckset said:


> So mayhem’s is better then LRT ?
> 
> Seems everyone says ek-duraclear is crap in this thread.
> 
> I’d love to do hard tubing but I don’t think I have the patience for that , bending looks hard lol


Hi there 

As @DerComissar posted review of Mayhems Clear tubing which I used this tubing for while and no yellowing 

Yes EK DuraClear is crap there, used and wouldn't touch this tubing on my loop

Regarding the hard tubing, many people prefer to use hard tubing and they saying its easier than soft tubing 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Qu1ckset

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> As @DerComissar posted review of Mayhems Clear tubing which I used this tubing for while and no yellowing
> 
> Yes EK DuraClear is crap there, used and wouldn't touch this tubing on my loop
> 
> Regarding the hard tubing, many people prefer to use hard tubing and they saying its easier than soft tubing
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I think I’m going to try the mayhem’s tubing is I decide to go soft tubing , it’s half the price of the EK and Primochill tubing.. 

I want to go hard tubing , just the bends look hard and I’m not a fan of the 90degree fittings


----------



## ANGRY-robert

Just completed this build a few days ago.


----------



## jura11

Qu1ckset said:


> I think I’m going to try the mayhem’s tubing is I decide to go soft tubing , it’s half the price of the EK and Primochill tubing..
> 
> I want to go hard tubing , just the bends look hard and I’m not a fan of the 90degree fittings


Hi there 

Personally I would go with 16/10mm tubing and fittings as 13/10mm can kink or doesn't have best bend radius 

Currently using Mayhems UV White 16/10mm tubing and bend radius is nice and can do easy tight bends etc

But yes agree about the price of the Mayhems tubing,its cheaper than any other tubing on market

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Qu1ckset

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> Personally I would go with 16/10mm tubing and fittings as 13/10mm can kink or doesn't have best bend radius
> 
> Currently using Mayhems UV White 16/10mm tubing and bend radius is nice and can do easy tight bends etc
> 
> But yes agree about the price of the Mayhems tubing,its cheaper than any other tubing on market
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


If I decide on soft tubing about going 3/8” x 5/8” which I think is 10mmx16mm


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah it is, and do have to say the ability to make tight bends w/out kinks is the reason why if I do run soft (ZMT) I'd prefer a thicker wall since it has lower risk of kinking as temps rise (which tube will do that as it softens up as the coolant/water warms up)


----------



## jura11

Qu1ckset said:


> If I decide on soft tubing about going 3/8” x 5/8” which I think is 10mmx16mm


Yes that's the best size for tubing there,I tried 13/10 and 16/10 and prefer 16/10 or 3/8" x 5/8" 

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## Jsunn

Pics of my hard line build.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Qu1ckset said:


> how come your fluid in the tubes look purple but the blocks look like they have clear fluid... is the tubing just coloured and your using clear fluid ?


The CPU block has a very aggressive jet plate design for Threadripper. It gives it a three-dimensional look which is awesome, but the fluid is Ice Dragon Nano Fluid, which is white. Proper placement of lighting provides isolated saturation which Ice Dragon is very good at doing. So it looks like multiple colors when it's really one.


----------



## DarthBaggins

lifeisshort117 said:


> The CPU block has a very aggressive jet plate design for Threadripper. It gives it a three-dimensional look which is awesome, but the fluid is Ice Dragon Nano Fluid, which is white. Proper placement of lighting provides isolated saturation which Ice Dragon is very good at doing. So it looks like multiple colors when it's really one.


How do you like Ice Dragon so far? always wanted to try it but always went to Mayhems for their Pastel line-up, last I remember they're very similar


----------



## Wolfsbora

Ok folks, so I'm getting back into the game and wanted some opinions and you don't have to be a fan of the late Chris Cornell to give them. How does everyone feel about copper tubing in this rig?








Please excuse the graphic the link was handy so I used it. I have more pics upon request.


----------



## psycho84

SMA8 with two Black Ice Nemesis GTS560 X-Flow


----------



## feznz

Just wondering if it is normal for Mayhems pastel to bubble up a little after a 1/2hour or so the bubbles go away this happens every time I start the computer I wasn't sure if I left a little cleaner in the radiators or not.
I did flush with 6 x 20litre buckets of clean water looped through and back into the bucket for about 5mins each bucket
the first clean was with a citric acid based cleaner with a submersable fish pump to prime the system and ran for about 2 hours the blocks and reservoir were all disasembled and cleaned.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

SpikeV said:


> . . . the build is starting the install of the boro Glass Dragon Tubes custom made by featured artist Garrett Brebes of PISMO BEACH, CA
> 
> it's a long way from Pismo Beach to the outlands of Denmark . . . but Garrett was super to work with in order to make this happen . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . 12mm Lab quality borosilicate glass tubing - annealed and fire polished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . now to fabricate a Res mount in order to get the positioning spot on
> 
> 
> Cheers


Glorious.


----------



## Hefner

feznz said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering if it is normal for Mayhems pastel to bubble up a little after a 1/2hour or so the bubbles go away this happens every time I start the computer I wasn't sure if I left a little cleaner in the radiators or not.
> I did flush with 6 x 20litre buckets of clean water looped through and back into the bucket for about 5mins each bucket
> the first clean was with a citric acid based cleaner with a submersable fish pump to prime the system and ran for about 2 hours the blocks and reservoir were all disasembled and cleaned.


Totally normal, nothing to worry about.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Finally drilled out for my passthru's


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Finally added some QDC to my loop, it got real boring quick disassembling everything if I wanted to change any parts, now its simple rad/res disconnects from everything and changing out parts is a matter of minutes.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Finally added some QDC to my loop, it got real boring quick disassembling everything if I wanted to change any parts, now its simple rad/res disconnects from everything and changing out parts is a matter of minutes.


----------



## iCrap

Should one Black Ice GTX 360 be enough for a 5930k and 1080ti? Right now I have two in my loop but I am designing a new case and I don't really think I have the space for two anymore.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm cooling my 5930k and 1080 with a single XSPC EX360 so I know it should be enough with HWL's rads. Also will be cooling my 6900k & 1080Ti with a single PE360. Even with OC's it's enough.


----------



## iCrap

How fast are the fans running though? with two right now its basically passive. the fans are spinning super slow


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm running Noctua's on the 5930k @4.7/1080 @2165/4653 and the fans are running 800-1200 rpms and not very audible. I don't know how well the ML120's are going to do but my goal is to be as silent as possible ( have 4 120's and 2 140's in that build's case)


Builds coming along a bit further


----------



## kevindd992002

I checked all the XSPC rotary fittings I bought from PPCS and most of them have that play. Some more than the others. They aren't all the same. So far, I have 1 x male-to-male rotary fittings, 4 x 45deg rotary fitting, and 3 x 90deg rotary fitting that have this play problem. I'm not sure if they really are designed that way or it is within the manufacture's tolerance or something. The play in the m-to-m rotary fitting is the worst of all (https://www.dropbox.com/s/nbv2qzg10uttrg2/received_10156107028653698.mp4?dl=0).

Also, can you confirm if this is a kink that I need to worry about? And do you have any comments on the way I install the rotary fittings on these (see pics below). The soft tubing used there is 3/8 ID, 5/8 OD.


----------



## CptSpig

outofmyheadyo said:


> Finally added some QDC to my loop, it got real boring quick disassembling everything if I wanted to change any parts, now its simple rad/res disconnects from everything and changing out parts is a matter of minutes.


Running 3-4 QDC's 24/7 best thing ever for changing out hardware.











Spoiler


----------



## CptSpig

iCrap said:


> Should one Black Ice GTX 360 be enough for a 5930k and 1080ti? Right now I have two in my loop but I am designing a new case and I don't really think I have the space for two anymore.


You should have no problem. Running [email protected] OC Cashe 3.0 and Titan [email protected] 189/780 OC on a single EK-Predator 360 push / pull fans 24/7. Temperature Idle 25c and gaming never goes above 40c.


----------



## Wbroach23

Just finished my first custom loop, I will never halfway do cooling again. I had a swiftech H320 X2 but the pump housing that mated to the res cracked and leaked all over the inside of my case, luckily the only thing i had to replace was the rad pump and Res.


----------



## samwise67

Just finished my first hardline tubing build. i7-8700K with EK block, EVGA 1070ti with EK block, MSI Z370M mATX motherboards, EK fittings and tubing, alphacool xt45 radiators (280 up top & 240 in front), and swiftech mcp35x pump all in a Phanteks Evolv mATX case.


----------



## Revan654

iCrap said:


> Should one Black Ice GTX 360 be enough for a 5930k and 1080ti? Right now I have two in my loop but I am designing a new case and I don't really think I have the space for two anymore.


Yes, The GTX 360 can handle Quad SLI with a 8 Core CPU. It can discharge 1800w.

Check the Performance tab

Link: http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/gtx/360gtx/


----------



## iCrap

Thanks! so my two is massive overkill then. This is good because now I can make the case much smaller


----------



## IT Diva

Revan654 said:


> Yes, The GTX 360 can handle Quad SLI with a 8 Core CPU. It can discharge 1800w.
> 
> Check the Performance tab
> 
> Link: http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/gtx/360gtx/


 






But don't forget that 1800W figure is based on a minimum of a 20C delta t, which is well above what most on OCN strive for.


At a more reasonable delta t of 10C, the dissipation is probably close to about 600W or so. . . . . and that assumes pretty good fans at speed.


----------



## sli_shroom

kevindd992002 said:


> snip
> Also, can you confirm if this is a kink that I need to worry about? And do you have any comments on the way I install the rotary fittings on these (see pics below). The soft tubing used there is 3/8 ID, 5/8 OD. snip


doesnt look kinked kevin. maybe close but it isnt flattening at all yet. if you shorten the tube a bit it may help with that bend as the tube wont have to go past the pump fitting and curve back to it.. this assumes the pump fitting can rotate


----------



## Ceadderman

sli_shroom said:


> doesnt look kinked kevin. maybe close but it isnt flattening at all yet. if you shorten the tube a bit it may help with that bend as the tube wont have to go past the pump fitting and curve back to it.. this assumes the pump fitting can rotate


I don't think it can be shortened any more. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## kevindd992002

sli_shroom said:


> doesnt look kinked kevin. maybe close but it isnt flattening at all yet. if you shorten the tube a bit it may help with that bend as the tube wont have to go past the pump fitting and curve back to it.. this assumes the pump fitting can rotate





Ceadderman said:


> I don't think it can be shortened any more. :thinking:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Yes, the pump fitting can rotate. I also don't think I can shorten it more because the two components are too close to each other. But yes my goal is so that the tube won't have to go past the pump fitting so that it's kinda straight going down.


----------



## kevindd992002

Sorry for the double post but do you have any suggestion as to how I'll be able to route the pump out to the center bottom port of the reservoir instead of the one on the right (as shown in the picture)? Or does it even matter? I know it will for looks.


----------



## Questors

kevindd992002 said:


> I checked all the *XSPC rotary fittings I bought from PPCS and most of them have that play*. Some more than the others. They aren't all the same. So far, I have 1 x male-to-male rotary fittings, 4 x 45deg rotary fitting, and 3 x 90deg rotary fitting that have this play problem. I'm not sure if they really are designed that way or it is within the manufacture's tolerance or something. The play in the m-to-m rotary fitting is the worst of all (https://www.dropbox.com/s/nbv2qzg10uttrg2/received_10156107028653698.mp4?dl=0).


I use XSPC fittings in my builds. Nearly all of the XSPC rotaries used rotate rather freely and none have leaked. Best thing to do is put it together and air test prior to filling.


----------



## SavantStrike

IT Diva said:


> But don't forget that 1800W figure is based on a minimum of a 20C delta t, which is well above what most on OCN strive for.
> 
> 
> At a more reasonable delta t of 10C, the dissipation is probably close to about 600W or so. . . . . and that assumes pretty good fans at speed.


Has HW labs ever provided the full test data for how they determine these performance figures?

Their numbers have always been grossly exxagerated IMO. A steady state load of half their rated capacity would result in a machine too loud for the comfort of most of the people posting on this site.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Of course when I look for a Dr. Drop so I can test my loop, everyone is sold out - also not sure which version I need. Since I just need to pressure test the loop, don’t feel like having to pull out the scuba gear if it springs a leak lol (the TCO method)


----------



## kevindd992002

Questors said:


> I use XSPC fittings in my builds. Nearly all of the XSPC rotaries used rotate rather freely and none have leaked. Best thing to do is put it together and air test prior to filling.


So are you saying the behavior that I see on these XSPC rotaries is pretty much normal? That says a lot about their quality then. I don't think rotary fittings should be designed this way. It's just too risky. I mean, yes, I can test with my Dr. Drop after building the loop but that doesn't mean to say they won't be leaking in the future while they're running in the system.


----------



## iamjanco

DarthBaggins said:


> Of course when I look for a Dr. Drop so I can test my loop, everyone is sold out - also not sure which version I need. Since I just need to pressure test the loop, don’t feel like having to pull out the scuba gear if it springs a leak lol (the TCO method)


I had problems with the Dr. Drop myself. A good bike pump and *this* helped solve them.


----------



## kevindd992002

iamjanco said:


> I had problems with the Dr. Drop myself. A good bike pump and *this* helped solve them.


What specifically was your problem with it? So you ended up scrapping it?


----------



## iamjanco

kevindd992002 said:


> What specifically was your problem with it? So you ended up scrapping it?


Pretty much, but I still have it. It leaked like a sieve, teflon tape didn't help much, and I wanted something more robust; by the time I learned that it was bad it was past the point of returning it to PPCS. 

So I built my old tester using *higher quality (and more expensive) parts*, with the help of the guide in the link that I shared.


----------



## kevindd992002

iamjanco said:


> Pretty much, but I still have it. It leaked like a sieve, and teflon tape didn't help much, and I wanted something more robust; by the time I learned that it bad it was past the point of returning it to PPCS.
> 
> So I built my old tester using *higher quality (and more expensive) parts*, with the help of the guide in the link that I shared.


Well, you can always contact Aquacomputer about it, can't you? Now, I'm worried with mine. I haven't really opened it yet but is there way to test if it's working?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Awesome, Now I know the parts I need to build my own (helps that I have a Home Depot 1/4 mile from my house)


----------



## iamjanco

kevindd992002 said:


> Well, you can always contact Aquacomputer about it, can't you? Now, I'm worried with mine. I haven't really opened it yet but is there way to test if it's working?


I wouldn't worry about it, I probably just got a bad one. Given what I paid for it, I wrote it off. 

That said, I'm pretty sure Aquacomputer would stand behind the product if someone experienced the same or similar issue.


----------



## kevindd992002

iamjanco said:


> I wouldn't worry about it, I probably just got a bad one. Given what I paid for it, I wrote it off.
> 
> That said, I'm pretty sure Aquacomputer would stand behind the product if someone experienced the same or similar issue.


Gotcha. Thanks.


----------



## Questors

kevindd992002 said:


> So are you saying the behavior that I see on these XSPC rotaries is pretty much normal? That says a lot about their quality then. I don't think rotary fittings should be designed this way. It's just too risky. I mean, yes, I can test with my Dr. Drop after building the loop but that doesn't mean to say they won't be leaking in the future while they're running in the system.



NO! I went back and looked at the video link you posted. I missed that first time around. I wouldn't use that fitting! I have found XSPC fittings to be as good quality as other fittings was my point. I also use Bitspower fittings. Their rotaries are usually very tight, too tight actually. None of my XSPC rotaries pull apart like the one you displayed. They just spin very freely, but in place, no separation.


----------



## kevindd992002

Questors said:


> NO! I went back and looked at the video link you posted. I missed that first time around. I wouldn't use that fitting! I have found XSPC fittings to be as good quality as other fittings was my point. I also use Bitspower fittings. Their rotaries are usually very tight, too tight actually. None of my XSPC rotaries pull apart like the one you displayed. They just spin very freely, but in place, no separation.


That's what I thought. Almost all my other rotaries have that kind of separation too but others have minimal, but still. I've decided to switch to Barrow. I might've gotten bad rotary fitting batches which really suck. PPCS refunded me anyway.


----------



## psycho84




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Are flames back? 

TCO


----------



## SavantStrike

TheCautiousOne said:


> Are flames back?
> 
> TCO


Soon (TM)


----------



## DarthBaggins

psycho84 said:


> Spoiler


Definitely going to have to switch to HK's blocks, just look alot better than anything else on the market (Do love my EK blocks though too)
Great looking build :thumb:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

SavantStrike said:


> Soon (TM)


I thought I saw them this morning, now they have disappeared again. 

TCO


----------



## Barefooter

TheCautiousOne said:


> I thought I saw them this morning, now they have disappeared again.
> 
> TCO


Yeah I saw someone with like eight little flames earlier today, but they seem gone now.


----------



## Shoggy

iamjanco said:


> I wouldn't worry about it, I probably just got a bad one. Given what I paid for it, I wrote it off.


Could have been easily solved if you would have contacted us directly or you do that now. Resellers usually can not help with such things since they lack further knowledge about a product nor can they supply specific replacements parts.


----------



## iamjanco

Shoggy said:


> Could have been easily solved if you would have contacted us directly or you do that now. Resellers usually can not help with such things since they lack further knowledge about a product nor can they supply specific replacements parts.


*HE LIVES!!!*

Just joking, Shoggy.  Know you're both busy and serious about that, and that you guys are currently working on a number of yet to be introduced new products. Then there's this WIP called a forum of course, which can leave something wanting depending on one's perspective. 

I'll PM you about the Dr. Drop issue in the next few days. I haven't really been overly concerned about it myself.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Barefooter said:


> Yeah I saw someone with like eight little flames earlier today, but they seem gone now.


A conspiracy nonetheless. 

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

You're seeing things again. . lol


----------



## Kimir

I had my flames yesterday yeah, and rep button is the star next to report button right now.


----------



## dwolvin

Oh- thanks for pointing that out, I had not noticed...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ooh Green Flames. .


----------



## IT Diva

DarthBaggins said:


> Ooh Green Flames. .







But it doesn't look like the number of flames matches up to the "likes" which is the original "reps" number.


Some with 5 flames had only one in the old system.


Hopefully they'll get it sorted, at least they made a start . . . .


----------



## DarthBaggins

More than likely they’re working on ensuring people have the correct quantity, I know mine is right due to being a Retired Editor etc. But it is good to see some things being brought back in “doses” as was promised with the migration.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ill take an extra flame. No Problem. 

TCO


----------



## taowulf

TheCautiousOne said:


> Ill take an extra flame. No Problem.
> 
> TCO


You would put it out with a leak anyway.


----------



## pc-illiterate

taowulf said:


> You would put it out with a leak anyway.



:lachen::applaud:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

taowulf said:


> You would put it out with a leak anyway.


Oooo. I love it when you guys talk dirty to me. 

TCO


----------



## taowulf

TheCautiousOne said:


> Oooo. I love it when you guys talk dirty to me.
> 
> TCO


You make it worth the effort.


----------



## kevindd992002

Here's a pic of my ongoing build (GPU block not yet installed):










Since I need to use the reservoir's lower center port as inlet (for the waterfall effect) and either lower left/right ports for outlet, I'm thinking of this setup:

Res bottom right port -> D5 pump inlet -> D5 pump outlet -> Front rad bottom port -> Front rad top port -> Top rad front port -> Top rad back port -> CPU block center port -> CPU block top port -> GPU block left port -> GPU block right port -> Res bottom center port

I was talking to Sven of Aquacomputer @Shoggy through email and he mentioned that this setup is not advisable because I'm pushing air bubbles through the CPU and GPU from the radiator which is bad and so trapped air is likely. What are your comments on this?


----------



## Kimir

I'd do res->pump->CG->CPU->top rad->front rad->res. Not that it matter much


----------



## kevindd992002

Kimir said:


> I'd do res->pump->CG->CPU->top rad->front rad->res. Not that it matter much


Ok, that's basically what @Shoggy is saying and it's actually the harder path 

By "CG", do you mean the GPU? What's CG?


----------



## Kimir

kevindd992002 said:


> Ok, that's basically what @Shoggy is saying and it's actually the harder path
> 
> By "CG", do you mean the GPU? What's CG?


Yes sorry CG stands for "carte graphique", the French version of GC (graphic card), it's the GPU indeed. :thumb:
'xcuse my French lol


----------



## psycho84

A Picture with Lights on and i changed the Tube from the Top Radiator to the GPU,


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Very clean and nice! :specool:

Of course, dual loops for 2 components makes my brain itch a little - but I'll just tell myself it's to make it easier when you decide to add a VRM block and a second GPU and maybe something else to the mix. Regardless the build looks beautiful.


----------



## Ashcroft

kevindd992002 said:


> Here's a pic of my ongoing build (GPU block not yet installed):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I need to use the reservoir's lower center port as inlet (for the waterfall effect) and either lower left/right ports for outlet, I'm thinking of this setup:
> 
> Res bottom right port -> D5 pump inlet -> D5 pump outlet -> Front rad bottom port -> Front rad top port -> Top rad front port -> Top rad back port -> CPU block center port -> CPU block top port -> GPU block left port -> GPU block right port -> Res bottom center port
> 
> I was talking to Sven of Aquacomputer @Shoggy through email and he mentioned that this setup is not advisable because I'm pushing air bubbles through the CPU and GPU from the radiator which is bad and so trapped air is likely. What are your comments on this?


If you want to go from top rad to CPU to GPU it would probably be a good idea to flip the CPU block so that the inlet is towards the top and outlet towards the GPU. Otherwise you will have tubing crossing over which never looks good.


----------



## Questors

I like it also, looks great. There's a lot of space in that case. A single loop, no second reservoir, may have left a large-ish empty space. Just a thought. I would have done a single loop myself, but to each their own. 

It's better than mine in some ways for sure!


----------



## kevindd992002

Ashcroft said:


> If you want to go from top rad to CPU to GPU it would probably be a good idea to flip the CPU block so that the inlet is towards the top and outlet towards the GPU. Otherwise you will have tubing crossing over which never looks good.


That's what I thought. Here's a pic of my build now:










After installing both CPU and GPU blocks in my build, I can see now that the Vision display module of my CPU block is kinda covered by the GPU block. So I definitely need to invert that CPU block. If I turn the the CPU block 180 degrees and rotate the display in Aquasuite that will solve the potential inverted display problem but the Vision logo on the module will be inverted too. Do you guys know if it's possible to take out the module and invert it 180 degrees also?

I think my loop will be setup this way now:

res -> pump -> front rad -> CPU -> top rad -> GPU -> res

Besides, that's the ideal way of doing loops. Yes, I know it really doesn't make a difference in temps much because the pump speed is enough to negate these differences. But that option makes it easier for me to route the loop so I said why not.

EDIT:

1) Do T-fittings have designated inlet/outlet ports? Or can I use any of them as either inlet/outlet?
2) Do the HWLabs Black Ice GTS 280 X-Flow and GTX 360 U-flow have designated inlet/outlet ports?
3) I know you put a drain valve in the lowest point of the loop. Are there any guidelines as to where to put it specifically? I'm planning to put it in between the pump outlet and front rad inlet in my case like shown in this pic:


----------



## Ceadderman

kevindd992002 said:


> Ashcroft said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to go from top rad to CPU to GPU it would probably be a good idea to flip the CPU block so that the inlet is towards the top and outlet towards the GPU. Otherwise you will have tubing crossing over which never looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I thought. Here's a pic of my build now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installing both CPU and GPU blocks in my build, I can see now that the Vision display module of my CPU block is kinda covered by the GPU block. So I definitely need to invert that CPU block. If I turn the the CPU block 180 degrees and rotate the display in Aquasuite that will solve the potential inverted display problem but the Vision logo on the module will be inverted too. Do you guys know if it's possible to take out the module and invert it 180 degrees also?
> 
> I think my loop will be setup this way now:
> 
> res -> pump -> front rad -> CPU -> top rad -> GPU -> res
> 
> Besides, that's the ideal way of doing loops. Yes, I know it really doesn't make a difference in temps much because the pump speed is enough to negate these differences. But that option makes it easier for me to route the loop so I said why not.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 1) Do T-fittings have designated inlet/outlet ports? Or can I use any of them as either inlet/outlet?
> 2) Do the HWLabs Black Ice GTS 280 X-Flow and GTX 360 U-flow have designated inlet/outlet ports?
> 3) I know you put a drain valve in the lowest point of the loop. Are there any guidelines as to where to put it specifically? I'm planning to put it in between the pump outlet and front rad inlet in my case like shown in this pic:
Click to expand...

You need to line up the T so that flow goes straight through one end directly out the opposite end. Drain valve goes to the remaining port of the T. 

That said I am not sure you will have enough space between your pump and radiator from the looks of things. :thinking:

~Ceadder /forum/images/smilies/smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif


----------



## iCrap

What do you guys think about this? Its a rough sketch but dimensions are acurate. Just trying to figure out placement of stuff. I want to make it smaller. Maybe thinking I can swap the res and 240 rad position and then cut the width down a little. I dunno.


----------



## nycgtr

Was getting too hot in the evolv. V3000 time. Waiting for a replacement 24pin to finish up.


----------



## kevindd992002

Ceadderman said:


> You need to line up the T so that flow goes straight through one end directly out the opposite end. Drain valve goes to the remaining port of the T.
> 
> That said I am not sure you will have enough space between your pump and radiator from the looks of things. :thinking:
> 
> ~Ceadder /forum/images/smilies/smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif


Yes, I already have a T-fitting. I just wanted to confirm because I read that you don't want to put a drain valve in the pump's outlet port because of the risk of running it dry. That doesn't make sense to me.

There is enough space, trust me  I'll do all fittings in that area.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Anybody here has watercooling installed in Silverstone PM01 (RGB ) case ? I'd like to see; how 2x radiator(2*360*45 ?) could fit in the case.


----------



## nyk20z3

kevindd992002 said:


> Here's a pic of my ongoing build (GPU block not yet installed):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I need to use the reservoir's lower center port as inlet (for the waterfall effect) and either lower left/right ports for outlet, I'm thinking of this setup:
> 
> Res bottom right port -> D5 pump inlet -> D5 pump outlet -> Front rad bottom port -> Front rad top port -> Top rad front port -> Top rad back port -> CPU block center port -> CPU block top port -> GPU block left port -> GPU block right port -> Res bottom center port
> 
> I was talking to Sven of Aquacomputer @Shoggy through email and he mentioned that this setup is not advisable because I'm pushing air bubbles through the CPU and GPU from the radiator which is bad and so trapped air is likely. What are your comments on this?


Which vertical gpu bracket are you using ?


----------



## kevindd992002

nyk20z3 said:


> Which vertical gpu bracket are you using ?


The Coolermaster Vertical Graphics Card Holder by Ice Wolf


----------



## TheCautiousOne

kevindd992002 said:


> The Coolermaster Vertical Graphics Card Holder by Ice Wolf


When I read your response for some reason "Vert Master by Ice" popped in my head. Thought it sounded cool. 

Good Morning. 

TCO


----------



## Fleacircus

psycho84 said:


> SMA8 with two Black Ice Nemesis GTS560 X-Flow


Do you have a build log for this? What does your top 560 mod look like?


----------



## Esenel

My latest change to my waterloop.
Added 2x 360 60mm radiators in push/pull as an extension to my 240 30mm and 360 45mm radiators.


----------



## mouacyk

https://www.sweclockers.com/forum/trad/1501740-louqe-ghost-s1-custom-loop-mods-by-***gan?p=1

Incredible, for under 8 liters.


----------



## galletabah

mouacyk said:


> https://www.sweclockers.com/forum/trad/1501740-louqe-ghost-s1-custom-loop-mods-by-***gan?p=1
> 
> Incredible, for under 8 liters.


I see the top hat in the build. Much more than 8 liters...


----------



## kevindd992002

Any ideas how he created that GPU waterblock angled terminal adapter there? I kinda need something similar for my EK EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 waterblock but I can't see anything in EK's website that does the same as the one he used.


----------



## jura11

kevindd992002 said:


> Any ideas how he created that GPU waterblock angled terminal adapter there? I kinda need something similar for my EK EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 waterblock but I can't see anything in EK's website that does the same as the one he used.


Hi there 

Please check his thread, its in Swedish but Google translate should help you

https://sweclockers.com/forum/post/17171497

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## kevindd992002

jura11 said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas how he created that GPU waterblock angled terminal adapter there? I kinda need something similar for my EK EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 waterblock but I can't see anything in EK's website that does the same as the one he used.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Please check his thread, its in Swedish but Google translate should help you
> 
> https://sweclockers.com/forum/post/17171497
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura
Click to expand...

That's the thread I was looking at earlier and where I formulated my question from.

He says that he "created" that angled terminal adapter but didn't tell exactly how. So how do you do that?


----------



## kevindd992002

Double post


----------



## jura11

kevindd992002 said:


> That's the thread I was looking at earlier and where I formulated my question from.
> 
> He says that he "created" that angled terminal adapter but didn't tell exactly how. So how do you do that?


Hi there

Not sure but this does looks he is using something like is this 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-single-plexi

or something like this can help you

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-rotary-90-black

But from reading I can see he is modified FC-Bridge but maybe I'm wrong on this,hopefully someone will chime more on that

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## muzammil84

hey guys, just finished my build, thought someone might wanna see some pics.

full build log with hundreds of pictures:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


----------



## ChrisB17

Such an embaressment that the red makes my phone camera look like poo. Tomorrow I will take out the DSLR and take some good pics. But this is what my rig is so far.


----------



## huzzug

muzammil84 said:


> hey guys, just finished my build, thought someone might wanna see some pics.
> 
> full build log with hundreds of pictures:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


Is this what people call orgahsmsms ? Coz I'm in it right now. Such a nice rig. Wow


----------



## loader963

Just finished my first ever CL. Definitely not the prettiest build on here but still pretty excited. BTW that likwid mods case is awesome!


----------



## nycgtr

Got my replacement cable. Those nvidia logs will come off when I have the time to go scrapping at it.


----------



## dwolvin

Sweet mother of...

That is beautiful enough that I regret the missing +rep button.


----------



## alienalvan

muzammil84 said:


> hey guys, just finished my build, thought someone might wanna see some pics.
> 
> full build log with hundreds of pictures:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


Splendid build! Well done!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

So flames and rep are gone again. Well then. 

TCO


----------



## VSG

But so is geggeg so I will take it.


----------



## DerComissar

VSG said:


> But so is geggeg so I will take it.


Yay!

Never cared much for that geggeg guy, VSG is a much better person, lol. jk


----------



## mouacyk

VSG said:


> But so is geggeg so I will take it.


So, are they greener over yonder? Not much reaction to them waterblock reviews, I can tell. Well, it's not much different here now anyway, either.


----------



## pc-illiterate

OMG people! Spoiler all but a single picture!


----------



## VSG

mouacyk said:


> So, are they greener over yonder? Not much reaction to them waterblock reviews, I can tell. Well, it's not much different here now anyway, either.


Are you referring to TPU? That website is more a front page review/news with a forum that supports for discussions, so it's usually a ton of views/traffic irrespective of comments. OCN is the other way round, but these days even the forum threads are barely getting posts.


----------



## P?P?!

My recently completed petg custom loop in a Anidees Crystal Cube. Currently cleaning the system for the Primochill Vue Blue SX coolant I'll be using.


----------



## KCDC

P?P?! said:


> My recently completed petg custom loop in a Anidees Crystal Cube. Currently cleaning the system for the Primochill Vue Blue SX coolant I'll be using.


Coming from a successful Vue user, do not skimp on prep. And it NEEDS to be bone dry all the way, it hates water, leftover dye and particulates. I spent a better part of a week making sure everything was prepped. If you have any questions, hit me up. I've been running it without issue for a few months now!

Your build's looking nice BTW!

EDIT: If you haven't yet, read through some of the Vue thread just so you know how bad it can get if you don't follow the instructions to a T, plenty of horror stories from people that thought they did everything only to find out they didn't go far enough:

http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1642095-primochill-vue-coolant-users-club-78.html


----------



## P?P?!

KCDC said:


> Coming from a successful Vue user, do not skimp on prep. And it NEEDS to be bone dry all the way, it hates water, leftover dye and particulates. I spent a better part of a week making sure everything was prepped. If you have any questions, hit me up. I've been running it without issue for a few months now!
> 
> Your build's looking nice BTW!
> 
> EDIT: If you haven't yet, read through some of the Vue thread just so you know how bad it can get if you don't follow the instructions to a T, plenty of horror stories from people that thought they did everything only to find out they didn't go far enough:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1642095-primochill-vue-coolant-users-club-78.html


Thanks for the info. I've already let the system reboot cleaner run for 24 hrs. I am now getting ready to start the flushing process which I had already planned at minimum to do about 4 flushes just in case.


----------



## KCDC

P?P?! said:


> Thanks for the info. I've already let the system reboot cleaner run for 24 hrs. I am now getting ready to start the flushing process which I had already planned at minimum to do about 4 flushes just in case.



Your rads will hide water. I use a datavac blower and was able to fully blow out all the stuck liquid from my rads. I let them sit for days and they still had trapped water. I suggest you do something similar if you're going this far. They're super handy anyway, a good tool to have around. Even the most minuscule amount of water will break Vue down to mud in hours. It's crazy how much prep this stuff needs, but worth it when it works!

I use a version of this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-MDV-1BA-DataVac-Computer/dp/B00006IAOR

but they have cheaper options if you don't need the vacuum option:

https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500P-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001U899HQ

Also, I found it to be a little more difficult to bleed the system of trapped air/air pockets with Vue, so be ready with a decent drain situation so you can cycle the fluid to escape the trapped air. This could also be because I switched to rigid glass tubing and didn't realize bleeding was more difficult than with soft tubing.


----------



## shamus20

hopefully these pictures work, but i recently upgraded my pc and bought my first custom loop kit the ekwb a240g. let me know if you have any suggestions regarding this build. hopefully the pictures upload as the last 2 times i tried to upload them to my profile failed. here is a link to pcpartspicker.com where i have the info on my build. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/7QpJV6


----------



## dwolvin

Looking good! Certainly better than my first build (all used parts and hella mismatched). I know you already know this, but don't forget that kit is Aluminum- don't buy anything copper!


----------



## Radox-0

Completed my revised HTPC in the shift X. Pain to work in at times, more to do with wanting to put everything in a specific order but worked out okay. Two runs not exactly how I want, so will redo when I get a chance I think.


----------



## Revan654

dwolvin said:


> Looking good! Certainly better than my first build (all used parts and hella mismatched). I know you already know this, but don't forget that kit is Aluminum- don't buy anything copper!


a Lesson Thermaltake has yet to learn. They sell Aluminum radiators but copper waterblocks. Then tell everyone it's ok to mix metals.

I'll add be careful on Coolant you use as well, I would suggest always using EK's, Since Mayhems and others are not designed for non-copper parts.


----------



## kevindd992002

So one of stop plug fittings that I ordered from Barrow had no o-ring in it (probably a QA issue). The only reason I got the stop plug is that I wanted to replace the included silver stop plug that is exposed in my Aqualis reservoir. That means that it has an o-ring in it. My question is if I can use the Aqualis stop plug o-ring in the Barrow stop plug and have no issues or whatsoever? Are o-rings generally standard across different brands? 

I know, I know. I'm a fool for not buying extra o-rings. I totally forgot.

Here's a pic for your reference (Aqualis on left and Barrow on right):


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Useless without a oring lol thanks for the warning but orings are pretty tough why would one need extra 
Moisten before installing is about all it takes to prevent damage to them.


----------



## Revan654

kevindd992002 said:


> So one of stop plug fittings that I ordered from Barrow had no o-ring in it (probably a QA issue). The only reason I got the stop plug is that I wanted to replace the included silver stop plug that is exposed in my Aqualis reservoir. That means that it has an o-ring in it. My question is if I can use the Aqualis stop plug o-ring in the Barrow stop plug and have no issues or whatsoever? Are o-rings generally standard across different brands?
> 
> I know, I know. I'm a fool for not buying extra o-rings. I totally forgot.
> 
> Here's a pic for your reference (Aqualis on left and Barrow on right):


You have to check where the o-ring sits and check if seals all around. O-Rings come in different sizes and thickness, due to the design of all different types of fittings. There is no "Standard" Size. However stop plug O-Rings should be very close to one another and usually work with other brands. It's the compression fittings where you have to be careful. I would check your floor and such, It's likely it was lose in the bag and fell somewhere.

If you have any compression fittings from Barrow, Check the bag they came in. They use to supply you with space/other sized o-rings. Those should work on the stop fitting as well.


----------



## kevindd992002

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Useless without a oring lol thanks for the warning but orings are pretty tough why would one need extra /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> Moisten before installing is about all it takes to prevent damage to them.


Exactly.



Revan654 said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So one of stop plug fittings that I ordered from Barrow had no o-ring in it (probably a QA issue). The only reason I got the stop plug is that I wanted to replace the included silver stop plug that is exposed in my Aqualis reservoir. That means that it has an o-ring in it. My question is if I can use the Aqualis stop plug o-ring in the Barrow stop plug and have no issues or whatsoever? Are o-rings generally standard across different brands?
> 
> I know, I know. I'm a fool for not buying extra o-rings. I totally forgot.
> 
> Here's a pic for your reference (Aqualis on left and Barrow on right):
> 
> 
> 
> You have to check where the o-ring sits and check if seals all around. O-Rings come in different sizes and thickness, due to the design of all different types of fittings. There is no "Standard" Size. However stop plug O-Rings should be very close to one another and usually work with other brands. It's the compression fittings where you have to be careful. I would check your floor and such, It's likely it was lose in the bag and fell somewhere.
> 
> If you have any compression fittings from Barrow, Check the bag they came in. They use to supply you with space/other sized o-rings. Those should work on the stop fitting as well.
Click to expand...

I see. The only Barrow fittings that come with extra O rings are those for hardline fittings.

Also, I will definitely have extra of these fittingd I bought from them so I guess the green O rings are standard and applicable for all of them, correcr? At least that's what's written for the green ones in their website.

And nothing fell off the floor when i was checking them. I did it on my bed and was very careful on opening each packet.


----------



## alienalvan

Hi guys,

Need some advise for my water loop whereby the current build is having temperature overheat issue toward my GPU's, as you can see from the pictures i've 1 x 240mm & 1 x 360mm radiators top & front with total of 5 Corsair HD120 & 1 ID-Cooling thin fan (Due to RAM blocking the top area & Shakoon seriously are not custom water cooling friendly).
The front panel intake originally was a fancy tempered glass which i removed & customize into a dust filter mat for better air intake, it did improved around 4-6 degree Celsius but it seems like the air flow are not strong enough to go until GPU's, causing GPU's back-plate super hot. So result upon when i try to stress test it using 3Dmark time spy the GPU's stop working & the screen will just black out after 15-18 loops, below listed the temperatures of individual parts upon the stress test. Any recommendation what should i do to improve such condition? Thanks

Stress Test Temperatures
Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
Water Temperature: 54c-57c
CPU: 7700K 4.8GHz (67c-75c)
NVMe: LiteOn 240GB (69c-78c)
GPU: GTX980Ti 6GB x 2 (64c-67c)


Idle Temperatures
Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
Water Temperature: 35c-37c
CPU: 7700K 4.8GHz (43c-51c)
NVMe: LiteOn 240GB (59c-68c)
GPU: GTX980Ti 6GB x 2 (43c-49c)


----------



## Aenra

IT Diva said:


> But don't forget that 1800W figure is based on a minimum of a 20C delta t, which is well above what most on OCN strive for. At a more reasonable delta t of 10C ...



Assuming 30 celsius room/office ambient, that would entail a max temp of 50 celsius; and that's max, all cores under full stress, which is hardly most people's PC's modus operandi. And for any CPU or GPU, 50Cs is nothing, a welcome breeze. By your standards however, that's apprarently unreasonable? ...
Also, that's assuming a 30Cs ambient in the first place. Should one's office, living room, whatever, have a steady 30Cs as 'ambient', they should cease wasting money on PC building and invest in an A/C unit. No offense. Not for their CPU, a 50c max temp is awesome; for themselves.

I respect a goal of as low a delta as possible, but to call a 20 degree one as unreasonable is well pushing it. 



SavantStrike said:


> Has HW labs ever provided the full test data for how they determine these performance figures? Their numbers have always been grossly exxagerated IMO. A steady state load of half their rated capacity would result in a machine too loud for the comfort of most of the people posting on this site.



Either they're exaggerated, or they're not and it's just you being uncomfortable at high fan speeds; two vastly different things. Which of the two is it?
And if high fan speeds are an issue to you (which is perfectly fine needless to say), why would you ever consider any rad that's built for high RPMs? Be it Hardware Labs' or anyone else's?
/rhetorical


----------



## nycgtr

Aenra said:


> Assuming 30 celsius room/office ambient, that would entail a max temp of 50 celsius; and that's max, all cores under full stress, which is hardly most people's PC's modus operandi. And for any CPU or GPU, 50Cs is nothing, a welcome breeze. By your standards however, that's apprarently unreasonable? ...
> Also, that's assuming a 30Cs ambient in the first place. Should one's office, living room, whatever, have a steady 30Cs as 'ambient', they should cease wasting money on PC building and invest in an A/C unit. No offense. Not for their CPU, a 50c max temp is awesome; for themselves.
> 
> I respect a goal of as low a delta as possible, but to call a 20 degree one as unreasonable is well pushing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either they're exaggerated, or they're not and it's just you being uncomfortable at high fan speeds; two vastly different things. Which of the two is it?
> And if high fan speeds are an issue to you (which is perfectly fine needless to say), why would you ever consider any rad that's built for high RPMs? Be it Hardware Labs' or anyone else's?
> /rhetorical


I have a near 30c ambient in the middle of winter. My heating is controlled by my building. So what ac unit.


----------



## SavantStrike

Aenra said:


> Assuming 30 celsius room/office ambient, that would entail a max temp of 50 celsius; and that's max, all cores under full stress, which is hardly most people's PC's modus operandi. And for any CPU or GPU, 50Cs is nothing, a welcome breeze. By your standards however, that's apprarently unreasonable? ...
> Also, that's assuming a 30Cs ambient in the first place. Should one's office, living room, whatever, have a steady 30Cs as 'ambient', they should cease wasting money on PC building and invest in an A/C unit. No offense. Not for their CPU, a 50c max temp is awesome; for themselves.
> 
> I respect a goal of as low a delta as possible, but to call a 20 degree one as unreasonable is well pushing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either they're exaggerated, or they're not and it's just you being uncomfortable at high fan speeds; two vastly different things. Which of the two is it?
> And if high fan speeds are an issue to you (which is perfectly fine needless to say), why would you ever consider any rad that's built for high RPMs? Be it Hardware Labs' or anyone else's?
> /rhetorical


My rig uses all Delta AFB1212SH fans (15 of them with 14 on radiators, and I don't do push pull set ups either) My tolerance level is above what most would consider acceptable. I still don't see the performance HW labs claims as being achievable based on my experience with similar rads.

A 20 degree delta is more than fine though.


----------



## MNMadman

Isn't the delta T they are referring to coolant temp, not component temp? You shouldn't have a 20ºC coolant delta T -- you want it as low as possible.


----------



## SavantStrike

MNMadman said:


> Isn't the delta T they are referring to coolant temp, not component temp? You shouldn't have a 20ºC coolant delta T -- you want it as low as possible.


A high coolant Delta T means the rad works very efficiently. Water is a superior heat transfer medium so you can get excellent results with comparatively warm water as long as the flow rate is high enough. 

For sensible cooling:
Air Q = 1.1cfm x delta T
Water Q = 500gpm x delta T

This is where Q is btuhr, I haven't bothered to look up the metric system equivalents.

My desktop has had 24x7 steady state water temperatures of 42.5C with components that don't go above 50C core temp. I run all my GPUs in parallel and have two pumps.


----------



## MNMadman

alienalvan said:


> Stress Test Temperatures
> Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
> Water Temperature: 54c-57c
> 
> Idle Temperatures
> Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
> Water Temperature: 35c-37c


Your coolant temps are way too high, very close to the danger point when stressed. Most liquid cooling components are designed for a 60ºC maximum coolant temp. Getting that close to it could cause issues.

With your high ambient temps, it looks like you don't have enough radiator to keep it cool enough. Try putting your fans and pump at 100% if they aren't already.


----------



## MNMadman

SavantStrike said:


> My desktop has had 24x7 steady state water temperatures of 42.5C with components that don't go above 50C core temp. I run all my GPUs in parallel and have two pumps.


You must be in a relatively high-ambient area of the country. My coolant has never been above 29ºC even with CPU and GPU stressed to the max for hours on end. My Titan Xp has never been above 35ºC core temp when gaming, folding, or stress-testing. Can't say the same of my Threadripper though...


----------



## SavantStrike

MNMadman said:


> You must be in a relatively high-ambient area of the world. My own coolant has never been above 29ºC even with CPU and GPU stressed to the max.


Not particularly - this is just what happens with 4 1080 TIs and a 1920x burying the needle at 1300W DC load. 

This system was configured this way for phase 1 testing before phase 2. Phase 2 is a system that will have a 50C 24x7 coolant loop driven to a stainless steel plate frame heat exchanger. I'm going to use GPU heat to make hot water. A fair amount of engineering went into the design . If the GPU core to water delta stays similar, the GPUs will be below 60C.


----------



## liquidzylon

Hello, I'm wondering about airflow with a very large rad and what the best setup would be for my new fractal define r6 , 
Build : 8700k [email protected] 5 hopefully 5.2 stable,
16gb 3200 MHz 
Gtx msi Seahawk aio 1080(not ti] 
Taichi z370 

The r6 has support for 4x120 top 
3x120 front 
2x140 bottom 
1x140 rear 

I want to get a 480mm rad for the the top at 40mm thickness if not a 360mm as I'll be looking to add gpu's into the loop upon the 2k nvidia series release. Can I have suggestions on rad size and placement along with how many and placement of fans ? Thank you


----------



## nycgtr

alienalvan said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Need some advise for my water loop whereby the current build is having temperature overheat issue toward my GPU's, as you can see from the pictures i've 1 x 240mm & 1 x 360mm radiators top & front with total of 5 Corsair HD120 & 1 ID-Cooling thin fan (Due to RAM blocking the top area & Shakoon seriously are not custom water cooling friendly).
> The front panel intake originally was a fancy tempered glass which i removed & customize into a dust filter mat for better air intake, it did improved around 4-6 degree Celsius but it seems like the air flow are not strong enough to go until GPU's, causing GPU's back-plate super hot. So result upon when i try to stress test it using 3Dmark time spy the GPU's stop working & the screen will just black out after 15-18 loops, below listed the temperatures of individual parts upon the stress test. Any recommendation what should i do to improve such condition? Thanks
> 
> Stress Test Temperatures
> Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
> Water Temperature: 54c-57c
> CPU: 7700K 4.8GHz (67c-75c)
> NVMe: LiteOn 240GB (69c-78c)
> GPU: GTX980Ti 6GB x 2 (64c-67c)
> 
> 
> Idle Temperatures
> Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
> Water Temperature: 35c-37c
> CPU: 7700K 4.8GHz (43c-51c)
> NVMe: LiteOn 240GB (59c-68c)
> GPU: GTX980Ti 6GB x 2 (43c-49c)


That water temp is horrific. Your rad space isn't an issue. Either you have too little airflow, or you should recheck your inlet and outlets on your blocks, making sure you are using the right port. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a combination of both.


----------



## MNMadman

nycgtr said:


> That water temp is horrific. Your rad space isn't an issue. Either you have too little airflow, or you should recheck your inlet and outlets on your blocks, making sure you are using the right port. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a combination of both.


A rad that's enough for a certain CPU at 68ºF ambient may not be enough for the same CPU at 84-92ºF ambient (alienalvan's ambient). You need more rad and/or faster fan speed to keep the temps under control -- especially that coolant temp.


----------



## nycgtr

MNMadman said:


> A rad that's enough for a certain CPU at 68ºF ambient may not be enough for the same CPU at 84-92ºF ambient (alienalvan's ambient). You need more rad and/or faster fan speed to keep the temps under control -- especially that coolant temp.


My ambient is about 30c specially in the summer its 31-32 even. In a mid size atx case running x99 and 2 titans I never even saw past 48c on the water with similar rad space. Hes running a mid range chip and 2 980tis. Granted his ambient is high that water temp is still way too high above ambient for a proper functioning loop.


----------



## pc-illiterate

alienalvan said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Stress Test Temperatures
> Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
> Water Temperature: 54c-57c
> CPU: 7700K 4.8GHz (67c-75c)
> NVMe: LiteOn 240GB (69c-78c)
> GPU: GTX980Ti 6GB x 2 (64c-67c)
> 
> 
> Idle Temperatures
> Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
> Water Temperature: 35c-37c
> CPU: 7700K 4.8GHz (43c-51c)
> NVMe: LiteOn 240GB (59c-68c)
> GPU: GTX980Ti 6GB x 2 (43c-49c)



Make all rad fans intake. Get better fans. Turn up pump speed since we don't know what you're using.


----------



## Aenra

nycgtr said:


> I have a near 30c ambient in the middle of winter. My heating is controlled by my building. So what ac unit.



I'm not certain how i'm meant to respond to this in all honesty..



SavantStrike said:


> I still don't see the performance HW labs claims as being achievable based on my experience with similar rads



Now that's interesting; if you don't mind expanding, which would said similar rads be and how did you reach this conclusion?


----------



## nanotm

pc-illiterate said:


> Make all rad fans intake. Get better fans. Turn up pump speed since we don't know what you're using.


clean the filters, fans, rads 

dust will kill your cooling faster than anything else and it doesn't take long to get a coverage that seriously impacts your flow through


----------



## alienalvan

MNMadman said:


> Your coolant temps are way too high, very close to the danger point when stressed. Most liquid cooling components are designed for a 60ºC maximum coolant temp. Getting that close to it could cause issues.
> 
> With your high ambient temps, it looks like you don't have enough radiator to keep it cool enough. Try putting your fans and pump at 100% if they aren't already.


Well it seems like 3 Corsair HD120 at the front was not able to deliver good airflow, might need to adjust my fan speed to max but for my pump it's already running at max all the time.


----------



## alienalvan

nycgtr said:


> That water temp is horrific. Your rad space isn't an issue. Either you have too little airflow, or you should recheck your inlet and outlets on your blocks, making sure you are using the right port. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a combination of both.


Yup, just found out the front intake like crap... thinking on what to do with it now.


----------



## TeslaHUN

alienalvan said:


> Yup, just found out the front intake like crap... thinking on what to do with it now.


Did u try removing the front panel ?! So the front fans could breathe better ? If that solves your problem, then u can buy new case with mesh front, or grab new fans (with good static pressure ) for your current case.


----------



## shamus20

MNMadman said:


> A rad that's enough for a certain CPU at 68ºF ambient may not be enough for the same CPU at 84-92ºF ambient (alienalvan's ambient). You need more rad and/or faster fan speed to keep the temps under control -- especially that coolant temp.


so its not normal to sit at 30c normal, then go up to 65-75c while gaming on a water-cooled setup?


----------



## MNMadman

shamus20 said:


> so its not normal to sit at 30c normal, then go up to 65-75c while gaming on a water-cooled setup?


If you're talking about CPU temps, then yes it is.

We're talking about coolant temps. And for that, no it is not okay. Most liquid cooling components were designed with a maximum coolant temp of 60ºC. If you get close to that, bad things can happen.


----------



## shamus20

MNMadman said:


> If you're talking about CPU temps, then yes it is.
> 
> We're talking about coolant temps. And for that, no it is not okay. Most liquid cooling components were designed with a maximum coolant temp of 60ºC. If you get close to that, bad things can happen.


i am not sure on the coolant temps. but when i was running and oc on the i7-7800x the proc was running at 86c and the gou got up to about 65c. as soon as i realized that the temps on the gpu were going up i disabled the oc to that i didnt kill anything.


----------



## MNMadman

shamus20 said:


> i am not sure on the coolant temps. but when i was running and oc on the i7-7800x the proc was running at 86c and the gou got up to about 65c. as soon as i realized that the temps on the gpu were going up i disabled the oc to that i didnt kill anything.


You wouldn't kill anything at either of those temps. However, that GPU temp is typical of air cooling, not liquid. Either you don't have enough rad/fans for your loop or something else is wrong.

Give us a list of your loop components and other hardware, including the case.


----------



## CptSpig

shamus20 said:


> so its not normal to sit at 30c normal, then go up to 65-75c while gaming on a water-cooled setup?





MNMadman said:


> If you're talking about CPU temps, then yes it is.
> 
> We're talking about coolant temps. And for that, no it is not okay. Most liquid cooling components were designed with a maximum coolant temp of 60ºC. If you get close to that, bad things can happen.


65-75c is not normal when gaming on a CPU. Maybe for stress testing but not gaming. I have a [email protected]/30 with a Titan [email protected]/1620 on a Predator 360 push/pull PWM on CPU never gets over 40c gaming Idle 25c. Wildlands, dues-Ex mankind and Battlefield 1. What is you ambient temperature what kind of Paste are you using and what CPU block?


----------



## alienalvan

*Dust Filter! The Culprit!*



MNMadman said:


> Your coolant temps are way too high, very close to the danger point when stressed. Most liquid cooling components are designed for a 60ºC maximum coolant temp. Getting that close to it could cause issues.
> 
> With your high ambient temps, it looks like you don't have enough radiator to keep it cool enough. Try putting your fans and pump at 100% if they aren't already.





nycgtr said:


> That water temp is horrific. Your rad space isn't an issue. Either you have too little airflow, or you should recheck your inlet and outlets on your blocks, making sure you are using the right port. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a combination of both.



After all the checking & testing at the end it was those 3 pieces of DUST FILTER that's creating the chock for the front intake, seems like installing those 3 pieces of filter directly onto the fans was totally disaster stupid me...

Current Status
Stress Test Temperatures
Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
Water Temperature: 47c-48c

Idle Temperatures
Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
Water Temperature: 30c-34c


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If a simple screen is doing that you need better fans


----------



## MNMadman

alienalvan said:


> After all the checking & testing at the end it was those 3 pieces of DUST FILTER that's creating the chock for the front intake, seems like installing those 3 pieces of filter directly onto the fans was totally disaster stupid me...
> 
> Current Status
> Stress Test Temperatures
> Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
> Water Temperature: 47c-48c
> 
> Idle Temperatures
> Environment Temperature: 29c-34c
> Water Temperature: 30c-34c


What did that do for your CPU and GPU temps?


----------



## alienalvan

MNMadman said:


> What did that do for your CPU and GPU temps?


So basically i removed the original tempered glass from the front panel & trying to mod the case into a performance case, so i was worrying with 1 front filter it was way too easy to get dusty since my house is just at the roadside.
Therefor i installed those 3 piece of dust filters directly onto my Corsair HD120 & also my fan setup was under silent mode, so now after getting out those 3 piece of dust filter & set my fan into standard things just turn out fine.


----------



## alienalvan

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If a simple screen is doing that you need better fans


Hmm... so what fans you're going to recommend me to replace my existing Corsair HD120?


----------



## MNMadman

I wouldn't replace the fans. The poor performance was because you were going through two sets of filters and had the fans at low speed.

You'll just need to blow the dust out every so often. You should be able to see when it's needed.


----------



## alienalvan

Well now coolant temp can easily stabilize at 46-48 and stress test was stable as well


----------



## Streetdragon

Looks nice. Realy like it.

But for my taste tha water is still to warm, but with this air temps^^


----------



## alienalvan

Streetdragon said:


> Looks nice. Realy like it.
> 
> But for my taste tha water is still to warm, but with this air temps^^


Well current environment temperature is around 31c - 34c so can't do much about it.


----------



## shamus20

MNMadman said:


> You wouldn't kill anything at either of those temps. However, that GPU temp is typical of air cooling, not liquid. Either you don't have enough rad/fans for your loop or something else is wrong.
> 
> Give us a list of your loop components and other hardware, including the case.


this is something i had posted in another forum, as for ym water-cooling i am using the ekwb a240g kit, the only upgrade i can make is adding maybe 2 120mm rads one to the bottom and one to the top, or replacing my entire case (not going to do that.) 



so lets get down to temps but first my build:
i7-7800x
asus x299 tuf mk1
16gb of trident z
500gb samsung 850 evo
corsair 750 rm
gtx 1080ti founders
4 noctua fans (2 nf12, 2 nf-12 industrials)
inwin 805 (hot box normally)

as for temps:
at semi stock frequency 4.0 base (i7 -7800x)
idle: 29c
underload: 45-55
at 4.4 ghz
idle: 30-33
under load: 65-68 while running avx games it can get to dangerous temps 75-85c after 3 hours
at minor oc on gtx 1080ti (power 120%, max temp 90c)
idle: 29c
under load: 40-45
while process is oc'ed to 4.4 ghz
idle: 35-40
underload: 55-60
and just a heads up the temps i got from the swiftech h220x2 are the same on the cpu, but the founders editiion 1080ti would usually sit at 35-45 idle and 55-65 underload with 100% fan curve.

as for my room temp it can change wildly since my heater is broken, so it all depends on how hot it is inside. but normally for my tests it sits at around 22-25. if i have the heater off it can get to below freezing, depending on the temperature outside, but since getting this cooler it has been 6c-13c

as for a heads up since i have had the corsair h100i, swiftech h220x, swiftech h220x2 (first 2 i had in my system with a i7-4790k) the h100i was the longest lasting, both swiftech setups failed me with the first getting an rma 2 months into owning it. second failed after a year. as for temps: the h220x2 was the best for cooling i7-4790k, but not the most quiet...

hopefully that made some sense, if i am forgetting something please let me know

edit: my case https://www.in-win.com/en/gaming-chassis/805
rad support. up to 280mm in the front, 240mm on the bottom (only if you use a short power supply corsair rm is to long,) 120mm for exhaust.


----------



## ThrashZone

alienalvan said:


> So basically i removed the original tempered glass from the front panel & trying to mod the case into a performance case, so i was worrying with 1 front filter it was way too easy to get dusty since my house is just at the roadside.
> Therefor i installed those 3 piece of dust filters directly onto my Corsair HD120 & also my fan setup was under silent mode, so now after getting out those 3 piece of dust filter & set my fan into standard things just turn out fine.


Hi,
There you go remove the glass panel 
I never was a fan (no pun intended) of the panels in front because all intake air has to go through the little slot on the sides 
The fans you have are 800-1725 rpm so should be fine.
Double screens plus glass panel obviously was the drag.
Plus as stated low rpm or silent mode.


----------



## khemist

Latest in my r6, swapped my FTW3 out to a reference and back to a heatkiller block.


----------



## SteezyTN

Do a lot of people ever mount their pumps to a radiator or fan? I purchased the EK Dual D5 pump, and my original plan was to just mount it to the bottom of my SMA8. But then I thought I could just mount it to my 580 with the supplied fan mount supplies to possibly save some room. Does mounting it to a fan/radiator cause any extra noise or vibration? Or is it just better to mount it to a firm solid plate in my case?


----------



## chibi

SteezyTN said:


> Do a lot of people ever mount their pumps to a radiator or fan? I purchased the EK Dual D5 pump, and my original plan was to just mount it to the bottom of my SMA8. But then I thought I could just mount it to my 580 with the supplied fan mount supplies to possibly save some room. Does mounting it to a fan/radiator cause any extra noise or vibration? Or is it just better to mount it to a firm solid plate in my case?


I chose to mount my EK Dual D5 assembly to the bottom of my SMA8. I did hear/feel the vibration and sound when just the pumps running. However, with the fans on as well, it was quickly drowned out. It will also depend on rpms you run the pumps at as well. For maximum quietness, I would look into soft mounting. Pad the pumps with either a Shoggy sponge or Isolate Sorbothane feet pads, and have the input/output runs with soft tubing long enough to dampen vibrations.


----------



## Revan654

SteezyTN said:


> Do a lot of people ever mount their pumps to a radiator or fan? I purchased the EK Dual D5 pump, and my original plan was to just mount it to the bottom of my SMA8. But then I thought I could just mount it to my 580 with the supplied fan mount supplies to possibly save some room. Does mounting it to a fan/radiator cause any extra noise or vibration? Or is it just better to mount it to a firm solid plate in my case?


Do you mean 560?

I attached mine to my fans, it's worth doing if your fans have rubber pads. 










Mine is actually allot quieter this way. With my setup I have two forms of anti-vibration attached to the pumps. One being the fans rubber padding and one from the dual pump top to the bracket. 

Usually the pump is one the loudest devices in the case, This time the fans are slightly louder (Which is pretty hard to do). My fans are deadly quiet and only run at around 700 rpm's.


----------



## SteezyTN

chibi said:


> I chose to mount my EK Dual D5 assembly to the bottom of my SMA8. I did hear/feel the vibration and sound when just the pumps running. However, with the fans on as well, it was quickly drowned out. It will also depend on rpms you run the pumps at as well. For maximum quietness, I would look into soft mounting. Pad the pumps with either a Shoggy sponge or Isolate Sorbothane feet pads, and have the input/output runs with soft tubing long enough to dampen vibrations.





Revan654 said:


> Do you mean 560?
> 
> I attached mine to my fans, it's worth doing if your fans have rubber pads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is actually allot quieter this way. With my setup I have two forms of anti-vibration attached to the pumps. One being the fans rubber padding and one from the dual pump top to the bracket.
> 
> Usually the pump is one the loudest devices in the case, This time the fans are slightly louder (Which is pretty hard to do). My fans are deadly quiet and only run at around 700 rpm's.


Yes, Sorry I meant to say 560. I currently have the bottom Chassis with a cutout, but I recently ordered the full bottom from Caselabs to hopefully dampen the noise. Thank you for all the info. I think I’ll go and get some padding and that may help like you said. 

And I have EK Vardar 140’s (in pull) and I feel like that’s a crap load of weight hanging from them if I attach them to those. Then I thought I could possible move the fans to push, and then put the pump directly to the radiator. Since they are vertical, rather than horizontal (like yours Revan), I feel like that would also cause more noise.


----------



## ElectroGeek007

Built my first custom liquid cooling setup yesterday, I think it turned out rather well. The Storm Stryker is a few years old at this point and doesn't have some of the modern case amenities (no front radiator support?), but this should be plenty for now. 
The computer is this one that I've had for about a year, featuring a Ryzen 1800X @ 4025 MHz or so along with a reference Vega 56 (flashed with Vega 64 BIOS).

I went (almost) full EKWB on this one:
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
EKWB COOLSTREAM PE 240 (bottom of case)
EKWB COOLSTREAM SE 240 (top of case)
EK-Supremacy EVO AMD RGB - Nickel
EK-FC Radeon Vega - Acetal+Nickel
EK Vardar fans (4)
A bunch of EK fittings and other accessories
PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8" x 5/8" Tubing - Bloodshed Red (cool name )


----------



## Questors

SteezyTN said:


> Do a lot of people ever mount their pumps to a radiator or fan? I purchased the EK Dual D5 pump, and my original plan was to just mount it to the bottom of my SMA8. But then I thought I could just mount it to my 580 with the supplied fan mount supplies to possibly save some room. Does mounting it to a fan/radiator cause any extra noise or vibration? Or is it just better to mount it to a firm solid plate in my case?


I see a lot of pics where builders do this. It appears to me it is done more due to space constraints. I have a dual D5 setup mounted to the bottom of my ST10. With just the pumps running, such as during a loop fill or drain, there is almost no noise what so ever. The only thing I did when mounting the pump was to use rubber washers between the pump mount and case bottom. Very quiet and virtually no vibration transmitted to the chassis.


----------



## Mikecdm

No colored dye, No rgb, no windows. 

Moved stuff over from a corsair 600Q, added a second nemesis gts360. Swapped out Ek supremacy with Heatkiller block. Used existing tubing that I had and a bunch of bitspower fittings that I bought years ago. Had some left over AP15 gentle typhoons that I had to re-solder cables to. Instead of using the stock fan hub thing, I used the phanteks pwm hub that was working fine with 3 fans. PWM works well with the asus ai suite. Didn't want to take a chance on the fractal thing when I know the phanteks works. 

I thought about running dual D5, since I have a top from years ago, but then I'd have to buy a new reservoir. I already had the ek res top thing, so used that instead.


----------



## MNMadman

Mikecdm said:


> No colored dye, No rgb, no windows.
> 
> Moved stuff over from a corsair 600Q, added a second nemesis gts360. Swapped out Ek supremacy with Heatkiller block. Used existing tubing that I had and a bunch of bitspower fittings that I bought years ago. Had some left over AP15 gentle typhoons that I had to re-solder cables to. Instead of using the stock fan hub thing, I used the phanteks pwm hub that was working fine with 3 fans. PWM works well with the asus ai suite. Didn't want to take a chance on the fractal thing when I know the phanteks works.
> 
> I thought about running dual D5, since I have a top from years ago, but then I'd have to buy a new reservoir. I already had the ek res top thing, so used that instead.


Interesting color choice on the EK M.2 heat sink. Looks good.


----------



## Mikecdm

MNMadman said:


> Interesting color choice on the EK M.2 heat sink. Looks good.


Its kind of like long time running joke. When I used to do Ln2 benching, I'd always tell Vince, (kingpin) to make me an an anodized purple pot, but he never did. He always just stuck to the same colors; red, green, blue, gold, black. I also told Der8aur if he'd make me a purple pot I'd buy it. Unfortunately, I never got to own a purple pot.


----------



## Ithanul

Mikecdm said:


> No colored dye, No rgb, no windows.
> 
> Moved stuff over from a corsair 600Q, added a second nemesis gts360. Swapped out Ek supremacy with Heatkiller block. Used existing tubing that I had and a bunch of bitspower fittings that I bought years ago. Had some left over AP15 gentle typhoons that I had to re-solder cables to. Instead of using the stock fan hub thing, I used the phanteks pwm hub that was working fine with 3 fans. PWM works well with the asus ai suite. Didn't want to take a chance on the fractal thing when I know the phanteks works.
> 
> I thought about running dual D5, since I have a top from years ago, but then I'd have to buy a new reservoir. I already had the ek res top thing, so used that instead.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Nice. About the same way I will be going with my planned rebuilds (got to rebuild one since the 5960X went belly up on it), since I finally have room for my cases and monitors. Plus, fans are super noise on tile flooring...I think I need to invest in sound proofing foam.

How the latest soft tube holding up now a days? Plan to switch back to soft tube, or at least on my [email protected]/BOINC rigs.


----------



## KCDC

SteezyTN said:


> Do a lot of people ever mount their pumps to a radiator or fan? I purchased the EK Dual D5 pump, and my original plan was to just mount it to the bottom of my SMA8. But then I thought I could just mount it to my 580 with the supplied fan mount supplies to possibly save some room. Does mounting it to a fan/radiator cause any extra noise or vibration? Or is it just better to mount it to a firm solid plate in my case?


I've always mounted mine to the rad. During my last rebuild, I swapped the pyramid decoupler out for the regular one and now I can hear it, bad move. I'd suggest using the pyramid decoupler, I never heard the pump with that one.


----------



## SteezyTN

KCDC said:


> SteezyTN said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do a lot of people ever mount their pumps to a radiator or fan? I purchased the EK Dual D5 pump, and my original plan was to just mount it to the bottom of my SMA8. But then I thought I could just mount it to my 580 with the supplied fan mount supplies to possibly save some room. Does mounting it to a fan/radiator cause any extra noise or vibration? Or is it just better to mount it to a firm solid plate in my case?
> 
> 
> 
> I've always mounted mine to the rad. During my last rebuild, I swapped the pyramid decoupler out for the regular one and now I can hear it, bad move. I'd suggest using the pyramid decoupler, I never heard the pump with that one.
Click to expand...

Whats a “pyramid” decoupled?


----------



## SteezyTN

SteezyTN said:


> KCDC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SteezyTN said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do a lot of people ever mount their pumps to a radiator or fan? I purchased the EK Dual D5 pump, and my original plan was to just mount it to the bottom of my SMA8. But then I thought I could just mount it to my 580 with the supplied fan mount supplies to possibly save some room. Does mounting it to a fan/radiator cause any extra noise or vibration? Or is it just better to mount it to a firm solid plate in my case?
> 
> 
> 
> I've always mounted mine to the rad. During my last rebuild, I swapped the pyramid decoupler out for the regular one and now I can hear it, bad move. I'd suggest using the pyramid decoupler, I never heard the pump with that one.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Whats a “pyramid” decoupler?
Click to expand...

Nevermind. I just looked it up. Mine came with the pyramid one. How did you even go about getting the regular one? Or is it from another version.


----------



## KCDC

SteezyTN said:


> Nevermind. I just looked it up. Mine came with the pyramid one. How did you even go about getting the regular one? Or is it from another version.


They both came with the pump for me. Also with the res/pump combo top I got later on.


----------



## Dortheleus

Hey gang,

I want you opinions on this setup:


----------



## khemist




----------



## kevindd992002

Is a stop fitting in a drain valve absolutely necessary? With a stop fitting, my back side panel will not close. I'm using the Barrow valve and I really like its looks. I can replace it with a drain valve that is of shorter length from Alphacool but it doesn't look as good.

So would you guys rather use a better looking drain valve without a stop fitting or use a shorter drain valve that doesn't look as nice but with a stop fitting installed?


----------



## strong island 1

Leak testing my first hard tube build. I am so mad I put that stupid black sponge at bottom of res, didnt realize it would show thru. Looks like a ball of hair, haha. Gotta pull it next drain. But I did see some particles in loop so I guess it will help.


----------



## strong island 1

dup


----------



## JayR88

Yeah the acr pump slowed down alittle have a good eye and found some china stuff, a little noisey of a pump about 20db but does appear to be a little more into that 500L/H. and bigger rez so that's cool. and for the hell of it pretty sure that's just some any old z97 block.


----------



## taowulf

kevindd992002 said:


> Is a stop fitting in a drain valve absolutely necessary? With a stop fitting, my back side panel will not close. I'm using the Barrow valve and I really like its looks. I can replace it with a drain valve that is of shorter length from Alphacool but it doesn't look as good.
> 
> So would you guys rather use a better looking drain valve without a stop fitting or use a shorter drain valve that doesn't look as nice but with a stop fitting installed?


The stop fitting is insurance.


----------



## strong island 1

is mayhems pastel supposed to smell so strong. I spilled some when filling and it was such a strong smell. It smells exactly like vodka.

I wish there was an easy way to take that stupid black res filter out.

With a top inlet and bottom outlet on res, do I need the EK plastic piece at bottom of res? if not maybe I can fish the filter out of a top port


----------



## MNMadman

strong island 1 said:


> is mayhems pastel supposed to smell so strong. I spilled some when filling and it was such a strong smell. It smells exactly like vodka.


Mine smelled like paint ... but either way, it was strong.



strong island 1 said:


> With a top inlet and bottom outlet on res, do I need the EK plastic piece at bottom of res? if not maybe I can fish the filter out of a top port


No, the anti-cyclone piece is only necessary/useful if you have if you have inlet and outlet at the bottom.


----------



## strong island 1

MNMadman said:


> Mine smelled like paint ... but either way, it was strong.
> 
> 
> No, the anti-cyclone piece is only necessary/useful if you have if you have inlet and outlet at the bottom.


ya I was actually shocked how strong it was, stunk up my whole room when it spilled.

I cant believe I didnt need anything at the bottom.

I attached a right angle fitting to the top of the res with soft tube attached for filling, but the top has recessed g1/4 so a fitting doesnt seal, I did a dumb thing and used the same port that I have the return line attached too, so once the inner tube filled up, you cant fill anymore and it comes back up and leaked everywhere out of that un sealed fitting. Luckily I was able to reach a different port on res and filled with squeeze bottle.


----------



## Joossens

My first hardline build; testing the loop now.
Still to do: 
make a cover to hide the rads and their connections.
do all the cabling
create a cover to hide cables in the back
cover up pump mount
put in red fluid
create a cover for the outside

Here are some pics


----------



## OrionBG

Hey guys,

Here are some quick shots of my current build.
It is my first hard-tube loop so it's far from perfect but I'll be doing a complete rebuild soon.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys I had a quick question , my case comes with a PWM Fan hub , I’ve never used one before, will it work properly if I have two different fans on it ? I got EK-Vardar 140ER fans and 120ER both PWM. So they will both work fine as long as there in there min-max pwm duty cycle % ?


----------



## GrumpyBear17

Qu1ckset said:


> Hey guys I had a quick question , my case comes with a PWM Fan hub , I’ve never used one before, will it work properly if I have two different fans on it ? I got EK-Vardar 140ER fans and 120ER both PWM. So they will both work fine as long as there in there min-max pwm duty cycle % ?


Yep, no issues with doing this - PWM does nothing more than send 12v / 0v at intervals, so you will find the fans will both scale in a linear fashion on the hub. Your only limitation is the current the PWM hub can provide. I have 2x 140mm and 3x 120mm ML fans on my hub.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quick question regarding my reservoirs. I’m running a single loop with a Dual D5 pump. Is it best to run the reservoirs in series or parallel (my plan was to connect the tubing in the back of the case and make just one in and out port total— which is parallel, right?)? Or does it really matter? Here’s how my tubing will go. The top is just for fill.


----------



## chibi

strong island 1 said:


> With a top inlet and bottom outlet on res, do I need the EK plastic piece at bottom of res? if not maybe I can fish the filter out of a top port


Personally, I would try to get that webbing/cyclone/sponge whatever it's called filter out asap. I had one before and after doing my 1 year maintenance, it crumbled in my palm as I picked it out of the res. After inspecting my blocks, there were little bits and pieces of the filter everywhere clogging up the fins!


----------



## kevindd992002

Ok, I just finished putting this noob build together and want your comments. See pictures below:

https://imgur.com/a/60O7V

Any comments? Too much or need more slack in the tubing runs?


----------



## dwolvin

If the slack means no stress on your fittings- less leaks. If the slack means easier to fil/empty/fix- Winner!

All in all, great look and welcome to the club!


----------



## strong island 1

chibi said:


> Personally, I would try to get that webbing/cyclone/sponge whatever it's called filter out asap. I had one before and after doing my 1 year maintenance, it crumbled in my palm as I picked it out of the res. After inspecting my blocks, there were little bits and pieces of the filter everywhere clogging up the fins!


man thats horrible. I got it out last night. wasnt easy as I didnt build a proper drain. But i un-hooked tube from gpu to res, turned upside down and got most of the coolant out by cycling pump, there was a little left in the res, so I used a ton of paper towels and slowly un-screwed res and soaked up the coolant. Was so happy to get it out. Now I have a few extra air bubbles but ran overnight with no leaks and seems to be bled. Will def build a better drain soon. Not easy how tight it is down by the pump.

I have always used a mcp35x for a pump and even a mcp35x2 and this is my first d5.

I cant believe how quiet it is compared to the mcp35x. Even at 100%. It almost makes me feel like it's not working it's so quiet. But I was worried for a little bit that it wasnt working. For some reason I remember the mcp35x creating much more turbulence in the res.

my res seems so still. Has anyone else had this experience.


----------



## kevindd992002

dwolvin said:


> If the slack means no stress on your fittings- less leaks. If the slack means easier to fil/empty/fix- Winner!
> 
> All in all, great look and welcome to the club!


Thanks! 

How do I know if the fittings are stressed? They don't look like it but I don't trust my eyes.

As I was leak testing the loop with the Dr. Drop air pressure test tool, I was scratching my head why the pressure keeps dropping and I couldn't find any leaks with soapy liquid. And then I remember I was using one of these fittings: http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/108.html on one my reservoir top holes. True enough, when I tried replacing that fitting with a regular stop fitting and then did the pressure test again, everything was great! So is it normal for that to happen with the pressure release fitting? I guess it does equalize the pressure after all if it doesn't seal the whole loop completely.

EDIT: It looks like I still have leaks after all. The pressure gauge is dropping at a very slow rate compared to the first time. I'm really having a hard time looking for any leaks here.


----------



## Mikecdm

strong island 1 said:


> man thats horrible. I got it out last night. wasnt easy as I didnt build a proper drain. But i un-hooked tube from gpu to res, turned upside down and got most of the coolant out by cycling pump, there was a little left in the res, so I used a ton of paper towels and slowly un-screwed res and soaked up the coolant. Was so happy to get it out. Now I have a few extra air bubbles but ran overnight with no leaks and seems to be bled. Will def build a better drain soon. Not easy how tight it is down by the pump.
> 
> I have always used a mcp35x for a pump and even a mcp35x2 and this is my first d5.
> 
> I cant believe how quiet it is compared to the mcp35x. Even at 100%. It almost makes me feel like it's not working it's so quiet. But I was worried for a little bit that it wasnt working. For some reason I remember the mcp35x creating much more turbulence in the res.
> 
> my res seems so still. Has anyone else had this experience.


The water in my res looks like it's not moving either. In some old benching loop thing I had with dual D5, the water in the res was always swirling around. With the D5/res combo thing, that water doesn't seem like it moves much. Maybe it's the anti-cyclone doing some magic.


----------



## Qu1ckset

GrumpyBear17 said:


> Yep, no issues with doing this - PWM does nothing more than send 12v / 0v at intervals, so you will find the fans will both scale in a linear fashion on the hub. Your only limitation is the current the PWM hub can provide. I have 2x 140mm and 3x 120mm ML fans on my hub.


Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

kevindd992002 said:


> Is a stop fitting in a drain valve absolutely necessary? With a stop fitting, my back side panel will not close. I'm using the Barrow valve and I really like its looks. I can replace it with a drain valve that is of shorter length from Alphacool but it doesn't look as good.
> 
> So would you guys rather use a better looking drain valve without a stop fitting or use a shorter drain valve that doesn't look as nice but with a stop fitting installed?


It's not a requirement. Just a precaution. I've never used one in a drain on any of my builds. 

TCO


----------



## strong island 1

Mikecdm said:


> The water in my res looks like it's not moving either. In some old benching loop thing I had with dual D5, the water in the res was always swirling around. With the D5/res combo thing, that water doesn't seem like it moves much. Maybe it's the anti-cyclone doing some magic.


ok cool, just had to make sure, made me nervous it was defective. I do love how quiet it is. Never had such a quiet watercooled pc. Those mcp35x pumps can be really loud, my mcp35x2 was crazy. i also dont think my 35x was as decoupled as this d5 is, ek did a nice job with the anti-vibration collar.


----------



## Nighthog

Made a small update on my case and cooling options.

In Win 303 and Alphacool stuff.


----------



## SteezyTN

Is this fill port okay, or do I need to turn the T fitting? Is that 90 too high? It’ll have to fill the first reservoir first before it will fill the second right? I have 2 reserviours in parallel.


----------



## Jyve

TheCautiousOne said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is a stop fitting in a drain valve absolutely necessary? With a stop fitting, my back side panel will not close. I'm using the Barrow valve and I really like its looks. I can replace it with a drain valve that is of shorter length from Alphacool but it doesn't look as good.
> 
> So would you guys rather use a better looking drain valve without a stop fitting or use a shorter drain valve that doesn't look as nice but with a stop fitting installed?
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a requirement. Just a precaution. I've never used one in a drain on any of my builds.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Ditto. I use one because my drain valve is in the front and it just looks better, to me. Its really not needed though.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey Guys,


Look what showed up on my front porch looking for a place to stay . . . .


While it's only about 3 inches longer ,higher, and wider than the TriStellar, it really looks much more massive.


I like the TriStellar aesthetics better, at least so far, more demure and balanced, as opposed to the overbearing mass of the Quad.


I do have to admit, the Quad is starting to grow on me though . . . . . Maybe once I've dinked with it a while and looked at some possible ideas, I'll be more convinced one way or the other.






















Fortunately, unlike some of the new videos, where there seems to be an issue getting the control app to connect, mine connected first try and worked perfectly.


----------



## ChrisB17

My Miami Vice case and cooling.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nighthog said:


> Made a small update on my case and cooling options.
> 
> In Win 303 and Alphacool stuff.



I would re-orient the rad to either the top or bottom of the case. The airflow through the rad will not hurt the PSU (Have a 303 also for my Media Server build - used to be my main rig that is being moved side-ways to serve another purpose)


----------



## GhostDog99

*Project ROG Extreme*

hey guys 

here is my new build


----------



## TheCautiousOne

ChrisB17 said:


> My Miami Vice case and cooling.


That tubing is madness. 

TCO


----------



## jvillaveces

Joossens said:


> My first hardline build; testing the loop now.
> Still to do:
> make a cover to hide the rads and their connections.
> do all the cabling
> create a cover to hide cables in the back
> cover up pump mount
> put in red fluid
> create a cover for the outside
> 
> Here are some pics


Nice job!


----------



## fearthisneo

Updated pic of my rig. Still waiting on Fractal to release vertical gpu cable.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys ive seemed to have lost the 4 pvc washers that come with the EK-Supremacy EVO, where can I find replacements? Ive looked in my local hardware store and can't find anything as thin.


----------



## MIGhunter

Qu1ckset said:


> Hey guys ive seemed to have lost the 4 pvc washers that come with the EK-Supremacy EVO, where can I find replacements? Ive looked in my local hardware store and can't find anything as thin.


Message ek, they sent me replacements in a day


----------



## strong island 1

i cant figure out how to spoiler anymore. got everything up and running, kind of like it without the leds, but it's nice everything turns off with 1 click.


----------



## Jyve

fearthisneo said:


> Updated pic of my rig. Still waiting on Fractal to release vertical gpu cable.


Why are you waiting on a fractal rizer? Just get the diypc one on amazon. That's the go to here. I'm currently using one and it works perfectly. Does fractal even make one?


----------



## Ithanul

IT Diva said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> Look what showed up on my front porch looking for a place to stay . . . .
> 
> 
> While it's only about 3 inches longer ,higher, and wider than the TriStellar, it really looks much more massive.
> 
> 
> I like the TriStellar aesthetics better, at least so far, more demure and balanced, as opposed to the overbearing mass of the Quad.
> 
> 
> I do have to admit, the Quad is starting to grow on me though . . . . . Maybe once I've dinked with it a while and looked at some possible ideas, I'll be more convinced one way or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fortunately, unlike some of the new videos, where there seems to be an issue getting the control app to connect, mine connected first try and worked perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJU8n45gqF8



Good lord, how many cases you have?
Here I thought I hoarded cases.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ithanul said:


> Good lord, how many cases you have?
> Here I thought I hoarded cases.


Not enough lol


----------



## MNMadman

Jyve said:


> Why are you waiting on a fractal rizer? Just get the diypc one on amazon. That's the go to here. I'm currently using one and it works perfectly. Does fractal even make one?


They make one specifically for the R6. They just haven't released it yet. Was originally supposed to be out in January.

If I had an R6 I'd go for the Fractal riser over the DIYPC one also. Just one of my quirks.


----------



## strong island 1

MNMadman said:


> They make one specifically for the R6. They just haven't released it yet. Was originally supposed to be out in January.
> 
> If I had an R6 I'd go for the Fractal riser over the DIYPC one also. Just one of my quirks.


ya I wish I would have had the fractal one. I made a mess out of mine with gorilla tape, that's why I put the white acrylic strip hopefully it doesnt fail, will be hard to get out.


----------



## Jyve

strong island 1 said:


> MNMadman said:
> 
> 
> 
> They make one specifically for the R6. They just haven't released it yet. Was originally supposed to be out in January.
> 
> If I had an R6 I'd go for the Fractal riser over the DIYPC one also. Just one of my quirks.
> 
> 
> 
> ya I wish I would have had the fractal one. I made a mess out of mine with gorilla tape, that's why I put the white acrylic strip hopefully it doesnt fail, will be hard to get out.
Click to expand...

OK so I'm looking at the fractal riser and other than an ocd thing of having the 'official' riser, and the small print of fractal design, it's a basic riser cable. I guess I was hoping it had racing stripes or flames down the side. Maybe a spoiler/wing.


----------



## strong island 1

Jyve said:


> OK so I'm looking at the fractal riser and other than an ocd thing of having the 'official' riser, and the small print of fractal design, it's a basic riser cable. I guess I was hoping it had racing stripes or flames down the side. Maybe a spoiler/wing.


haha, ya. The diy one from amazon has great reviews, spent a few hours gaming for first time last night and didnt notice any performance hit, compared with an official thermaltake cable and just normal install. will still probably grab the official one but just so the mounting holes line up. That's the only problem, if you can wait for the official one it's much easier to install.


----------



## Jyve

strong island 1 said:


> Jyve said:
> 
> 
> 
> OK so I'm looking at the fractal riser and other than an ocd thing of having the 'official' riser, and the small print of fractal design, it's a basic riser cable. I guess I was hoping it had racing stripes or flames down the side. Maybe a spoiler/wing.
> 
> 
> 
> haha, ya. The diy one from amazon has great reviews, spent a few hours gaming for first time last night and didnt notice any performance hit, compared with an official thermaltake cable and just normal install. will still probably grab the official one but just so the mounting holes line up. That's the only problem, if you can wait for the official one it's much easier to install.
Click to expand...

Mounting holes? You talking about where the card mounts into the riser and screws down to the chassis? I think that's actually a standard and they all should fit. My diypc fits like it was made for my TT case.


----------



## rolldog

I made a DIY vertical GPU mount in my In Win Tou 2.0. I wasn't entirely pleased with how it looked, so I bought one made by Cooler Master, which fits directly into the pre-existing PCIe slots. After a small amount of modding, I think it came out pretty good. 

I just finished this build a few days ago, and I'm currently trying to figure out how I can access my Aquacomputer Splitty, which is mounted to the bottom of my case under a mirror case divider that I made, without having to drain my loop and take everything apart. I have an Alphacool Laing DDC pump housed in a silver casing and an Alphacool plexi pump top mounted to the top of the mirror, with 16mm borosilicate glass tubing going in and out, so moving it even slightly without draining my loop is completely out of the question, I think.


----------



## fearthisneo

Jyve said:


> Why are you waiting on a fractal rizer? Just get the diypc one on amazon. That's the go to here. I'm currently using one and it works perfectly. Does fractal even make one?


The DIY riser from amazon doesn't line up the GPU correctly with the pci slots. I don't really want to drill holes to make it work.


----------



## Jyve

fearthisneo said:


> Jyve said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why are you waiting on a fractal rizer? Just get the diypc one on amazon. That's the go to here. I'm currently using one and it works perfectly. Does fractal even make one?
> 
> 
> 
> The DIY riser from amazon doesn't line up the GPU correctly with the pci slots. I don't really want to drill holes to make it work.
Click to expand...

That's not the cable's fault. How can a cable not align a card? It's the vertical mounting adapter of the case that should be or not be aligning the card to your pcie slot, not the riser cable.


----------



## CptAsian

strong island 1 said:


> i cant figure out how to spoiler anymore. got everything up and running, kind of like it without the leds, but it's nice everything turns off with 1 click.


Looks great!

If you add images by uploading them to OCN as an attachment, you can't spoiler them. If someone else quotes your post, they're automatically unattached and aren't visible. If you link an image that's hosted elsewhere, they can be spoiler-ed just like before with spoiler tags.


----------



## fearthisneo

Jyve said:


> That's not the cable's fault. How can a cable not align a card? It's the vertical mounting adapter of the case that should be or not be aligning the card to your pcie slot, not the riser cable.


I never said it was the cables fault. The DIY mounts to the holes of the case, the cable reaches the first pcie slot no problem. When the card is inserted there is a few mm of space between the actually end of the card and the vertical pci slots of the case. Id have to drill new holes to move it forward enough to get it lined up and be able to secure it. Ill just patiently wait and get the fractal riser, when and if they ever decide to release it.


----------



## eucalyptus

Is there any information on how much restrictive blocks affects the loop?

I got a Heatkiller GPU block, EK Supremacy EVO CPU block and a Alphacool X2 RAM block.

GPU block is not an issue at all. But I do know my EK block is restrictive and God damn I opened up my RAM block, that thing is soooo tiny! Compared to the inside of a 13/10 tube, the tiny channel inside is not even half the size :/


Should I split the water over CPU and RAM block to make it less restrictive or? I am running a very looooong loop with external radiators with a total of around 3 meter tubing counting back and forth outside the case.


----------



## DarthBaggins

fearthisneo said:


> I never said it was the cables fault. The DIY mounts to the holes of the case, the cable reaches the first pcie slot no problem. When the card is inserted there is a few mm of space between the actually end of the card and the vertical pci slots of the case. Id have to drill new holes to move it forward enough to get it lined up and be able to secure it. Ill just patiently wait and get the fractal riser, when and if they ever decide to release it.


Check with @Bill Owen, he might have a better solution or a product that will definitely work.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## 4WDBenio

Jameswalt1 said:


>


Moarrrrrr.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I voted the thread 5 stars. What do I get now. Good job james on the parvum build. Love the lcd and integrated reserviors. 

TCO


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys, I finally got enough parts to start putting my build together to find out which fittings I need before I order them, but upon installation I noticed some residue on the used videocard fitting ports that I didn't notice before, so I tried to take it apart but realized I didn't have the smaller Allen key on me to completely take apart the block and will continue tmr.

Was wondering what you guys thought of the attached pictures, do you think just plasticizer or do you think its some sort of reaction in the previous owners loop ?

Also is it ok to leave the gpu block on the card itself and just removed the screws holding the top portion of the block and open it ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Qu1ckset said:


> Hey guys, I finally got enough parts to start putting my build together to find out which fittings I need before I order them, but upon installation I noticed some residue on the used videocard fitting ports that I didn't notice before, so I tried to take it apart but realized I didn't have the smaller Allen key on me to completely take apart the block and will continue tmr.
> 
> Was wondering what you guys thought of the attached pictures, do you think just plasticizer or do you think its some sort of reaction in the previous owners loop ?
> 
> Also is it ok to leave the gpu block on the card itself and just removed the screws holding the top portion of the block and open it ?


That's why I don't like solid blocks. You aren't able to see what is going on inside of the fins and whatnot. Is there a way you can flush it or take the full block apart and actually clean everything? That is really all that is needed. 

TCO


----------



## Qu1ckset

TheCautiousOne said:


> That's why I don't like solid blocks. You aren't able to see what is going on inside of the fins and whatnot. Is there a way you can flush it or take the full block apart and actually clean everything? That is really all that is needed.
> 
> TCO


I plan on taking it apart once I get a small enough Allen key and seeing whats going on inside and cleaning it, was just curious if it just looks like gunk, or if it looks like a reaction in the previous owners loop


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Yea, lets call it buildup. Maybe not a "reaction", just normal use. Possible from a pastel or whatnot. 

TCO


----------



## Qu1ckset

So empty without radiators lol


----------



## Jyve

fearthisneo said:


> Jyve said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's not the cable's fault. How can a cable not align a card? It's the vertical mounting adapter of the case that should be or not be aligning the card to your pcie slot, not the riser cable.
> 
> 
> 
> I never said it was the cables fault. The DIY mounts to the holes of the case, the cable reaches the first pcie slot no problem. When the card is inserted there is a few mm of space between the actually end of the card and the vertical pci slots of the case. Id have to drill new holes to move it forward enough to get it lined up and be able to secure it. Ill just patiently wait and get the fractal riser, when and if they ever decide to release it.
Click to expand...

Sorry. Didn't mean to come across as challenging. I guess I'm having a hard time picturing what you're trying to explain.


----------



## rolldog

DarthBaggins said:


> Check with @Bill Owen, he might have a better solution or a product that will definitely work.


I bought a PCIe riser from Bill Owen, but it didn't fit my case how I needed it to. I can post a picture of it if you want, but you will need to drill holes in your case. I mounted my GPU vertically along my PCIe slots and had to cut the metal between the PCIe slots so I would be able to access the adapters on the GPU.


----------



## DarthBaggins

If a case has the braces along the PCIe slots you'll always have to cut them, that has nothing to do with an adapter. Even the CoolerMaster version makes you mod a case if those are present, now the only case I haven't had to do that is in my InWin 303 since it's wide open.

But again I know Bill can help over all since he does alot of work with mods for Fractal's cases.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Stupid mobile double post glitch/bug


----------



## lowfat

iCrap said:


> What do you guys think about this? Its a rough sketch but dimensions are acurate. Just trying to figure out placement of stuff. I want to make it smaller. Maybe thinking I can swap the res and 240 rad position and then cut the width down a little. I dunno.


Can't make it a bit higher, put 240 @ the top and the bigger rad up front? Would be able to cut most of the width down.

What are you doing for a motherboard tray and for mounting all the components? Is that 2020 extrusion?

I'm also going to be building a 2020 open frame system pretty soon. Current renders. Still have lots of stuff to figure out tho.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Always fun when you run into small road blocks on your builds, tonight was test fitting a 280 rad in the top of my Define R6 but run into clearance issues when a fan is installed to the rad making the top port on my mobo mosfet unusable and fan not being able to clear my ram!

need to do some more measuring tmr, but do you guy think a 240 rad with a fan would clear my ram with the 240 rads reduced width compared to a 280?


----------



## MNMadman

Rads based on 140mm fans are bad news for top mounts unless the case is specifically designed to give extra clearance. A rad based on 120mm fans will likely fit, but using that huge Dominator RAM sure isn't helping.

You should be able to tell by looking at the rad mount in the top of the case. There are holes specifically for 120mm fans. Use a ruler or something to see if they will clear the RAM.


----------



## Qu1ckset

MNMadman said:


> Rads based on 140mm fans are bad news for top mounts unless the case is specifically designed to give extra clearance. A rad based on 120mm fans will likely fit, but using that huge Dominator RAM sure isn't helping.
> 
> You should be able to tell by looking at the rad mount in the top of the case. There are holes specifically for 120mm fans. Use a ruler or something to see if they will clear the RAM.


Thanks, I will do that today when I dismount the 280 rad, if I didn't have to wait so long on the case to release I probably would of picked up on this before purchasing rads haha

hopefully I can get a sale for the rad and fans quick!


----------



## iamjanco

*Gaskets leaking oil: best practices*

*Cross-linked for greater exposure*:

*Question*: is there anything that can be done from a preventive maintenance standpoint to remove oils that might be leached from new gaskets used in water cooling parts? That is to say before finding oil covering the insides of your clear plexi blocks and having to rip your build apart to clean them?

I've posted a couple of suggestions in the linked post.


----------



## strong island 1

Jyve said:


> Mounting holes? You talking about where the card mounts into the riser and screws down to the chassis? I think that's actually a standard and they all should fit. My diypc fits like it was made for my TT case.


no it doesnt work. The holes in the pcb are in a lot of different places on different pcie riser cables. Or maybe the diy cable just uses different hole locations then all the others.

You can screw the cable down to the chassis but then the pcie slot doesnt line up with gpu.

so ya the holes in the pcb are the same distance apart as the chassis but they are in different locations then the fractal riser card.

also the diy cable puts the pcb hole in a funny place right under the release clip, so you couldnt get a screw in anyway, kind of strange placement.


I am so mad at myself. My ek uni vertical brkt was missing the mouting screws but I had some from my 2 ek res's. But like an idiot I used non painted metal screws and metal washers, really dont know what I was thinking, hearing this weird vibration, such a shame because this is the quietest build I ever had, cant hear fans or pump.

It's so hard to get to the screws, under the psu shroud and pump/tubes.


----------



## rolldog

After a few RMAs, moving, work, etc, I finally finished my latest build. The case I used is an In Win 2.0 modified to hold a vertical GPU (Gigabyte Aorus Extreme GTX 1080 Ti with a full EK waterblock). All my tubing is 16mm borosilicate glass tubing with Phanteks fittings.


----------



## Qu1ckset

What is the go to leds for case lighting, so much out there lol, im just looking for a strip or two of a white LEDs, I don't need RGB or a remote, so something simple, a lot of builds in here have some on point lighting including the one posted above.


----------



## lowfat

Lots of 5050 LED strips on Aliexpress for cheap.


----------



## DarthBaggins

For just white, I recommend DarkSide Led strips.


----------



## dwolvin

@rolldog- Whoa! Nice build, I've never seen a build in that case, do all of the external connections happen on the underside?


----------



## dwolvin

Bah- ignore the double post (I can't find delete)


----------



## Qu1ckset

DarthBaggins said:


> For just white, I recommend DarkSide Led strips.


was looking at these, and dazmode is local to me


----------



## rolldog

dwolvin said:


> @rolldog- Whoa! Nice build, I've never seen a build in that case, do all of the external connections happen on the underside?


On the bottom front of the case aare 3 x USB 3.0 ports, 1 x USB 3.1 Type C port, and audio ports (microphone and audio). All the other components that connect to the back, like the monitor, etc, connect and are then covered with a mirrored tempered glass panel. The cables are run under the bottom of the back window. It's a tight fit for what I was trying to install, but if I used thinner radiators, then I probably could have fit one up front and one up top (without modifying the top like I did.) However, when you're looking for stainless steel radiators, you don't get much of a selection as far as thickness of the radiators. And since the case has so many geometric angles, it was difficult to run glass tubing without it looking unlevel. I didn't use any of the hard drive mounting brackets that came with it. Instead, I mounted my reservoir where they were supposed to go, and mounted the hard drive to a clear sheet of acrylic, drilled some holes for individual LEDs inside of the acrylic, and mounted them to the MB tray. This case and PSU has some proprietary cables and connectors which also didn't make things easy. Overall, I really like the case. It catches the eye of anyone who comes over.


----------



## iCrap

lowfat said:


> Can't make it a bit higher, put 240 @ the top and the bigger rad up front? Would be able to cut most of the width down.
> 
> What are you doing for a motherboard tray and for mounting all the components? Is that 2020 extrusion?
> 
> I'm also going to be building a 2020 open frame system pretty soon. Current renders. Still have lots of stuff to figure out tho.



That looks awesome. I actually started building mine partially. I ended reducing the width of the case a LOT and making space for a front and top rad if need be (I think im only gonna go with a front rad though)
Its a 2020 extrusion frame, yea. The motherboard tray is a lian-li removable one I had lying around. 

For mounting the stuff I will have CNC cut brackets or 3D printed ones. I just don't have that drawn yet

updated pics:


----------



## lowfat

iCrap said:


> That looks awesome. I actually started building mine partially. I ended reducing the width of the case a LOT and making space for a front and top rad if need be (I think im only gonna go with a front rad though) Its a 2020 extrusion frame, yea. The motherboard tray is a lian-li removable one I had lying around. For mounting the stuff I will have CNC cut brackets or 3D printed ones. I just don't have that drawn yet updated pics:


:thumb:
So you are doing what I would have suggested anyways.


----------



## iamjanco

Neat stuff, extrusion. Mine is coming along as well (test bench, dual MO-RA3 420s):


----------



## alienalvan

iamjanco said:


> Neat stuff, extrusion. Mine is coming along as well (test bench, dual MO-RA3 420s):


Holly molly! are you trying to cool a nuke? LOL


----------



## Abaidor

iamjanco said:


> Neat stuff, extrusion. Mine is coming along as well (test bench, dual MO-RA3 420s):


Aha! That's the way to do it. I got a MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless steel before Christmas and this thing surprised me with it excellent build quality. I am putting together my build these days and I am actually toying with the idea to get a second one for even more silent operation. What I am cooling with it is not important, LOL! (i9-7940X + 1080Ti only). I want huge rads for the lowest possible noise. 

If space is not an issue these rads are amazing!


----------



## iamjanco

alienalvan said:


> Holly molly! are you trying to cool a nuke? LOL


Thanks, chuckle, it's a test bench. 



Abaidor said:


> Aha! That's the way to do it. I got a MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless steel before Christmas and this thing surprised me with it excellent build quality. I am putting together my build these days and I am actually toying with the idea to get a second one for even more silent operation. What I am cooling with it is not important, LOL! (i9-7940X + 1080Ti only). I want huge rads for the lowest possible noise.
> 
> If space is not an issue these rads are amazing!


Can't agree more. Only one minor quibble: the little black slotted pieces of plastic they used on the fan frames to protect the radiator fins must have been an afterthought, as they fall off out of the box. I fixed that using Gorilla glue and some toothpicks (to dab the glue on with). @Watercool-Jakob


----------



## MNMadman

For anybody building with a MO-RA3 radiator...

I highly suggest pre-filling the rad, as they hold over a liter of coolant. That saved me a lot of loop-filling time and will be especially helpful for those with multiple MO-RA3 rads.

And yeah, I had that same problem with the plastic protectors. Glue worked well for me too.


----------



## Abaidor

Hey thanks for the tips guys. I will probably flush and prepare the rad within the next 3-4 days so I will keep that in mind. My decisions to use and mod a Coolermaster Cosmos II has delayed me a little bit since going with a glass window ignited several other mods (and purchases) along with modding the front panel with USB 3.0 & Type C ports. On the other hand this case pushed me to MO-RA3 and this is great.


----------



## rolandos582

DarthBaggins said:


> For just white, I recommend DarkSide Led strips.


I see these getting recommended all the time. How many strips do you actually use/advice?


----------



## iCrap

lowfat said:


> :thumb:
> So you are doing what I would have suggested anyways.





Yup, pretty much. I could have even made it narrower I guess but I can always do that later if I want. 



Here's a real pic vs cad. I got the aquero mounted w/ CNC panel with integrated power / reset buttons, mobo tray & pump/res combo mounted. Still need to make the rad mount for the front.







iamjanco said:


> Neat stuff, extrusion. Mine is coming along as well (test bench, dual MO-RA3 420s):



Wow, thats a lot of cooling! your bench looks kinda like mine


----------



## strong island 1

my cpu temps seem so high. Do they look unusually high to anyone else.

my ambient is a very high 30c, but I was expecting better. I turned my pump to 50% for this test so I am going to try again at 100%. my fans are at about 1500rpm during 100% load for overclocking. Going to try and drop a temp sensor in the res. just seems so high to me. Gpu is fine at idle and load. I delidded cpu and used the bitspower ihs.

my gpu is only about 2c higher than my ambient, so the water temp cant be higher than the idle gpu.

the screenshot is small fft's.

blend is about 62c and large fft's about 70c.

I guess my ambient is high.


----------



## Jyve

So perusing watercooled rigs I ran across this build using ek zmt. Any ideas how he got these faux hardline bends?

















I'm guessing maybe used something like a wire coat hanger inside? What do you all think? I kinda dig it.


----------



## Ithanul

Jyve said:


> So perusing watercooled rigs I ran across this build using ek zmt. Any ideas how he got these faux hardline bends?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 146289
> 
> 
> View attachment 146297
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing maybe used something like a wire coat hanger inside? What do you all think? I kinda dig it.


O darn, I really want to know as well. That looks nice.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Jyve said:


> So perusing watercooled rigs I ran across this build using ek zmt. Any ideas how he got these faux hardline bends?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing maybe used something like a wire coat hanger inside? What do you all think? I kinda dig it.


Maybe he put that over acrylic piping. 

TCO


----------



## Jyve

TheCautiousOne said:


> Jyve said:
> 
> 
> 
> So perusing watercooled rigs I ran across this build using ek zmt. Any ideas how he got these faux hardline bends?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing maybe used something like a wire coat hanger inside? What do you all think? I kinda dig it.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe he put that over acrylic piping.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Maybe but that seems like a lot of effort that and the fittings all look like soft tube fittings not petg or acrylic. I'm leaning on wire hanger. I wonder what kind of effect that'd have on water flow. I'm sure some but is it enough to make a huge difference?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Jyve said:


> Maybe but that seems like a lot of effort that and the fittings all look like soft tube fittings not petg or acrylic. I'm leaning on wire hanger. I wonder what kind of effect that'd have on water flow. I'm sure some but is it enough to make a huge difference?


Don't underestimate the power of deception. 

TCO


----------



## Aenra

iamjanco said:


> is there anything that can be done from a preventive maintenance standpoint


I'm not sure what the device you're talking about even is in all honesty 
But personally, i wouldn't put those o-rings anywhere near those kind of degrees.

Now o-rings, they tend to expand when first in contact with fluids; any fluids, including water, sweat from your fingers, etc. This is at miniscule levels that (i guess?) do not concern us, but i personally don't risk finding out the hard way.
I take them out wearing latex gloves (yes, you may laugh) and use a dry quality fiber cloth on them. Then back in they go. That's all.
Of course, i've also never found any oils in the first place, so i cannot say if the above would have been sufficient.

Were you referring to the user using the Blitz kit and then finding oil residues?


----------



## iamjanco

Aenra said:


> I'm not sure what the device you're talking about even is in all honesty
> But personally, i wouldn't put those o-rings anywhere near those kind of degrees.
> 
> Now o-rings, they tend to expand when first in contact with fluids; any fluids, including water, sweat from your fingers, etc. This is at miniscule levels that (i guess?) do not concern us, but i personally don't risk finding out the hard way.
> I take them out wearing latex gloves (yes, you may laugh) and use a dry quality fiber cloth on them. Then back in they go. That's all.
> Of course, i've also never found any oils in the first place, so i cannot say if the above would have been sufficient.
> 
> Were you referring to the user using the Blitz kit and then finding oil residues?


Not really; the cross link to that other thread in the post you quoted here actually provides more detail (and context) about the issue experienced by someone who was complaining about finding an oily film in his gpu block shortly after completing his build and running his pump. What I gathered from the additional conversation about that was that some folks have experienced similar issues (regardless of manufacturer, though EK was being blamed in this instance), which are attributed to oils that can leach from new gaskets. I was just looking for the best way to help avoid that problem.


----------



## partypoison25

Jyve said:


> Maybe but that seems like a lot of effort that and the fittings all look like soft tube fittings not petg or acrylic. I'm leaning on wire hanger. I wonder what kind of effect that'd have on water flow. I'm sure some but is it enough to make a huge difference?


\


Its soft tubing, Done by one of the Ek guys iirc.


----------



## kevindd992002

Aenra said:


> I'm not sure what the device you're talking about even is in all honesty
> But personally, i wouldn't put those o-rings anywhere near those kind of degrees.
> 
> Now o-rings, they tend to expand when first in contact with fluids; any fluids, including water, sweat from your fingers, etc. This is at miniscule levels that (i guess?) do not concern us, but i personally don't risk finding out the hard way.
> I take them out wearing latex gloves (yes, you may laugh) and use a dry quality fiber cloth on them. Then back in they go. That's all.
> Of course, i've also never found any oils in the first place, so i cannot say if the above would have been sufficient.
> 
> Were you referring to the user using the Blitz kit and then finding oil residues?





iamjanco said:


> Not really; the cross link to that other thread in the post you quoted here actually provides more detail (and context) about the issue experienced by someone who was complaining about finding an oily film in his gpu block shortly after completing his build and running his pump. What I gathered from the additional conversation about that was that some folks have experienced similar issues (regardless of manufacturer, though EK was being blamed in this instance), which are attributed to oils that can leach from new gaskets. I was just looking for the best way to help avoid that problem.


I was that "someone". I did find a brown film in some nickel parts of my GPU block after running my loop with Blitz Part 2 and flushing with distilled water a couple of times with 1 hour intervals. People are saying in the EK thread that this could be because of the oil from the gaskets themselves. And I forgot who said this but the oil in the gaskets is produced when they come in contact with liquid so I doubt you will find a way to prevent this. Then again, we're not even 100% sure that this is the cause of my issue.

Also, when I install my fittings I make sure to lubricate them with a little bit of distilled water. I'm surprised when I read that @Aenra is making sure that they are dry (totally opposite to what I do) before installing them in each of the WC components.


----------



## Aenra

kevindd992002 said:


> I'm surprised when I read that @Aenra is making sure that they are dry (totally opposite to what I do) before installing them



Unless i'm wrong (neither the first nor the last time):

- o-rings _are_ meant to expand _after_ the external fitting cap has been screwed around them (ie not prior). That is how a link is sealed. No clearance is going to be 'just so', you get imperfections, you get variations. The potentially resulting tiny gap could cause a leak, which is what they prevent against; think of them as shaping themselves around the 'inner' fitting's male end.. whatever that's called.
- therefore causing them to expand prematurely may or may not lead to issues, depending on nature/extent of said expansion, tightness or lack thereof of the fitting, etc etc. I don't know and do not want to know, so i take my precautions.
- yes, someone touched those before, so sure, i am being extreme in this. Never hurts doing things the right way and nevermind what anyone says or does.
- also, don't know about you, but i order something, i take it apart, inspect it, clean it, make sure it is tip top; then store it somewhere safe. That entails a process amounting to some time and in advance of any actual installation. Therefore leaving said component in an as close to 'factory default' state as possible is a natural step to take, especially when again, inspection and installation are not occuring consecutively.

I don't know who advises dipping them into water, or why. Although yes, i do know that by now it's a "thing", someone once said that another dude said that this guy advised... But maybe they have the right of it and i don't.

On an unrelated note, i did warn you about something; you did not listen


----------



## kevindd992002

Aenra said:


> Unless i'm wrong (neither the first nor the last time):
> 
> - o-rings _are_ meant to expand _after_ the external fitting cap has been screwed around them (ie not prior). That is how a link is sealed. No clearance is going to be 'just so', you get imperfections, you get variations. The potentially resulting tiny gap could cause a leak, which is what they prevent against; think of them as shaping themselves around the 'inner' fitting's male end.. whatever that's called.
> - therefore causing them to expand prematurely may or may not lead to issues, depending on nature/extent of said expansion, tightness or lack thereof of the fitting, etc etc. I don't know and do not want to know, so i take my precautions.
> - yes, someone touched those before, so sure, i am being extreme in this. Never hurts doing things the right way and nevermind what anyone says or does.
> - also, don't know about you, but i order something, i take it apart, inspect it, clean it, make sure it is tip top; then store it somewhere safe. That entails a process amounting to some time and in advance of any actual installation. Therefore leaving said component in an as close to 'factory default' state as possible is a natural step to take, especially when again, inspection and installation are not occuring consecutively.
> 
> I don't know who advises dipping them into water, or why. Although yes, i do know that by now it's a "thing", someone once said that another dude said that this guy advised... But maybe they have the right of it and i don't.
> 
> On an unrelated note, i did warn you about something; you did not listen


I'm a first time watercooler so I learn these things as they go by  Although I did a lot of preparation and research before putting everything together.

Can you refresh my mind? What was your warning to me? I really don't remember, sorry.


----------



## Aenra

kevindd992002 said:


> I'm a first time watercooler so I learn these things as they go by



Then do not learn from me, lol, the above is mere opinion; i lack the required scientific knowledge to say with surety what is the optimal approach in this, i only explained why i'm doing it the way i am.. since you asked i mean.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

The bottom line is that orings form a a better seal when they are lubricated. Yes orings expand when they are wet. This helps seal the mating surfaces better... that is the whole point of the oring. There is also less risk of binding/snagging/tearing an oring when it is lubricated. 

Water is a very basic lubricant for this purpose, but it is readily available and shouldn't contaminate or discolor your loop which may not be the case for oil-based lubricants.

It is probably not a bad idea to wet fittings when assembling your loop, but I wouldn't say it's 100% necessary with new fittings. If you look at new fittings they are rarely completely dry and may have a light oil coating or a dry lubricant on the orings to prevent them from drying out. Reusing fittings I would relubricate with a small amount of DI water.

Some of this also comes down to the specific oring material used. Some manufacturers use viton which holds up better to different fluids/temperatures and don't dry out as easily compared to rubber. It shouldn't be as critical to pre-lubricate viton orings compared to rubber orings.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys im ordering my fittings but kinda confused on which size extender to use im trying to clear a 25mm fan on a EK SE240 Rad but both Barrow and EKWB don't offer 25mm extenders.

will a 20mm work ? because im assuming the 30mm is too far, or should I just order the bitspower 25mm?


----------



## fx3861

Qu1ckset said:


> Hey guys im ordering my fittings but kinda confused on which size extender to use im trying to clear a 25mm fan on a EK SE240 Rad but both Barrow and EKWB don't offer 25mm extenders.
> 
> will a 20mm work ? because im assuming the 30mm is too far, or should I just order the bitspower 25mm?


Put into the consideration of the height of your fitting including with the extender, you get the measurement if its pass the needed height. To be on the safe side i go for the 30mm if your tubing will be across the fans, although i dont see why the need to do so if you can go beside it.


----------



## Aenra

wheatpaste1999 said:


> If you look at new fittings they are rarely completely dry and may have a light oil coating or a dry lubricant on the orings to prevent them from drying out



You are correct and made me realise that i should have mentioned the entire procedure i follow, at which point it might have been evident why i dry them out first; the way i put it (leaving so much out) gives the wrong impression.
* Edit: For those who aren't bored, i might as well. If i'm wrong, hopefully someone will educate.


Spoiler



Most of this comes down to o-rings and what empirical knowledge i have of them in relation to sound equipment; which does sound a bit 'off', granted, but to explain:
Usually, whatever they're coated with is there only as a preservative; contact with skin or water pushes them (or may, let's leave it at that) outside whatever equilibrium they may have. That should not happen before they're tight in the fitting, with the cap on top.
Now to add to that and no offense to any hardware rep of whatever company, i'm not really a fan of this whole 'everything made in China' trend of the last few decades. I cannot know what is used, but if experience is any factor, it's not exactly the best either.
So i wipe them down because i need to inspect them and the fitting (OCD/paranoia you'll think, but once in a blue moon you'll find that one bad apple that would have caused you grief) and because whatever it is they're coated with, i don't want it inside my loop. I wear latex gloves doing this as i have "greasy" skin and i don't want to be touching them directly with their coating removed. Once all is done, i coat them with DOW's 33 Light, a very very light coating.

Sometimes my posts are too long, can tend to get off topic and/or introduce factors not strictly related to an issue at hand, so out of fear of all that, i tend to 'cut down' a lot; can have the opposite effect, so my apologies.


So Kevin, best stick to what wheatpaste says 

If i may however, i'd like to ask in which o-rings you guys found oily substances?


----------



## jvillaveces

rolldog said:


> After a few RMAs, moving, work, etc, I finally finished my latest build. The case I used is an In Win 2.0 modified to hold a vertical GPU (Gigabyte Aorus Extreme GTX 1080 Ti with a full EK waterblock). All my tubing is 16mm borosilicate glass tubing with Phanteks fittings.


:drool: 
:who-let-r 

I'm so envious!


----------



## kevindd992002

Aenra said:


> You are correct and made me realise that i should have mentioned the entire procedure i follow, at which point it might have been evident why i dry them out first; the way i put it (leaving so much out) gives the wrong impression.
> * Edit: For those who aren't bored, i might as well. If i'm wrong, hopefully someone will educate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Most of this comes down to o-rings and what empirical knowledge i have of them in relation to sound equipment; which does sound a bit 'off', granted, but to explain:
> Usually, whatever they're coated with is there only as a preservative; contact with skin or water pushes them (or may, let's leave it at that) outside whatever equilibrium they may have. That should not happen before they're tight in the fitting, with the cap on top.
> Now to add to that and no offense to any hardware rep of whatever company, i'm not really a fan of this whole 'everything made in China' trend of the last few decades. I cannot know what is used, but if experience is any factor, it's not exactly the best either.
> So i wipe them down because i need to inspect them and the fitting (OCD/paranoia you'll think, but once in a blue moon you'll find that one bad apple that would have caused you grief) and because whatever it is they're coated with, i don't want it inside my loop. I wear latex gloves doing this as i have "greasy" skin and i don't want to be touching them directly with their coating removed. Once all is done, i coat them with DOW's 33 Light, a very very light coating.
> 
> Sometimes my posts are too long, can tend to get off topic and/or introduce factors not strictly related to an issue at hand, so out of fear of all that, i tend to 'cut down' a lot; can have the opposite effect, so my apologies.
> 
> 
> So Kevin, best stick to what wheatpaste says
> 
> If i may however, i'd like to ask in which o-rings you guys found oily substances?


Right. Like I said, I don't know much (yet) about all these stuff.

As for the o-rings with oily substance, I've read that mostly EK gaskets (at least the one in my GPU block) have these but the oil is not a "coating" in itself to the rubber. People (forgot specifically who) are saying that when the EK gaskets come in contact with any liquid, they produce this oil. So even if you wipe the gasket off, as soon as you install them back and fill the loop with liquid then the oil will be in the loop again. These are not my words so I'm not sure how accurate these claims are. I would hope that someone with more experience with these EK gaskets can chime in.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys quick questions will running a loop like GPU>Mosfet>CPU>RAD>RAD>RES>PUMP

Effect the temps of the loop compared to running rads say after the RES ? 

This is the cleanest route I could come up with for my loop, looks playing a big part!


----------



## iCrap

Loop order really dosen't matter. What you have there will work fine.


----------



## dwolvin

Running for simple loop = probably best performance (but the difference would be tiny).


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Did some maintenance this week and swapped from blue to green! Really like how it turned out.


----------



## KCDC

Dunno if y'all are still talking about O-Rings and lubrication, and I'm sure I've mentioned this here before, and maybe someone has just recently said it, I'm behind.

I like using a little silicone o-ring lube meant for airsoft guns, DOW 33 I believe and you can find cheaper versions. A tiny tub lasts forever. Whenever I'm installing new fittings or reusing them or cleaning blocks, anywhere I have o-rings, I use the tiniest amount of this on all o-rings. Helps the seal and conditions them so they will last longer. 

Also, since this silicone lube resists water, I haven't seen any brown oil from my o-rings since I used the stuff on them, so maybe it's preventing fluid from direct contact? Just speculating. Note, I did have the same brown oil from my first teardown of my blocks back then. Since the application of Dow 33, I haven't noticed it since.

I read this info somewhere - when I was first researching on my first build - that this is a common classic practice for preservation and further sealing them to their surface. Decided then to make it a common part of my maintenance and builds. I use Vue and it hasn't affected that finicky fluid, so I doubt it will do anything to other fluids. 

Speaking of O-Rings, I have a couple leftover bitspower SLI bridge fittings, and I noticed their o-rings leave black on my fingers, it's the only fittings I have that do this. It seems as if it's coming from the surface itself, deteriorating. They were never used and were just sitting in my spare parts bin in their original packaging. Anyone else come across this? Not just BP but any fittings. O-Rings shouldn't do that, right?


----------



## kevindd992002

KCDC said:


> Dunno if y'all are still talking about O-Rings and lubrication, and I'm sure I've mentioned this here before, and maybe someone has just recently said it, I'm behind.
> 
> I like using a little silicone o-ring lube meant for airsoft guns, DOW 33 I believe and you can find cheaper versions. A tiny tub lasts forever. Whenever I'm installing new fittings or reusing them or cleaning blocks, anywhere I have o-rings, I use the tiniest amount of this on all o-rings. Helps the seal and conditions them so they will last longer.
> 
> Also, since this silicone lube resists water, I haven't seen any brown oil from my o-rings since I used the stuff on them, so maybe it's preventing fluid from direct contact? Just speculating. Note, I did have the same brown oil from my first teardown of my blocks back then. Since the application of Dow 33, I haven't noticed it since.
> 
> I read this info somewhere - when I was first researching on my first build - that this is a common classic practice for preservation and further sealing them to their surface. Decided then to make it a common part of my maintenance and builds. I use Vue and it hasn't affected that finicky fluid, so I doubt it will do anything to other fluids.
> 
> Speaking of O-Rings, I have a couple leftover bitspower SLI bridge fittings, and I noticed their o-rings leave black on my fingers, it's the only fittings I have that do this. It seems as if it's coming from the surface itself, deteriorating. They were never used and were just sitting in my spare parts bin in their original packaging. Anyone else come across this? Not just BP but any fittings. O-Rings shouldn't do that, right?


Thanks for the tip! I swear I remember reading the same comment from you before but I'm not sure if it's in this thread. Anyway, is this it? https://www.amazon.com/Corning-Moly...ie=UTF8&qid=1523680184&sr=1-1&keywords=dow+33


----------



## KCDC

kevindd992002 said:


> Thanks for the tip! I swear I remember reading the same comment from you before but I'm not sure if it's in this thread. Anyway, is this it? https://www.amazon.com/Corning-Moly...ie=UTF8&qid=1523680184&sr=1-1&keywords=dow+33



That's probably the same stuff, but save 14 bucks and get this, which is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Marker-Lubricant-Corning-Recommended-Paintball/dp/B00YQK4SN0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2

if you search dow 33 airsoft, you'll find other alternatives, I know that this link is the real stuff. 

edit, this is the difference according to the description:
Dow 33 Marker Lubricatnt does not swell your orings

I guess the "marker" lube is specifically meant for o-rings.


----------



## kevindd992002

KCDC said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip! I swear I remember reading the same comment from you before but I'm not sure if it's in this thread. Anyway, is this it? https://www.amazon.com/Corning-Moly...ie=UTF8&qid=1523680184&sr=1-1&keywords=dow+33
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's probably the same stuff, but save 14 bucks and get this, which is what I use:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Marker-Lubricant-Corning-Recommended-Paintball/dp/B00YQK4SN0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2
> 
> if you search dow 33 airsoft, you'll find other alternatives, I know that this link is the real stuff.
Click to expand...

Yeah, saw those too. It says "by Captain-O-Ring". So does that mean they repack and resell the original DOW33 stuff from a big bulk of grease tub?


----------



## KCDC

kevindd992002 said:


> Yeah, saw those too. It says "by Captain-O-Ring". So does that mean they repack and resell the original DOW33 stuff from a big bulk of grease tub?


I edited my original post:

edit, this is the difference according to the description:
Dow 33 Marker Lubricatnt does not swell your orings

I guess the "marker" lube is specifically meant for o-rings. He probably does repackage it, I just knew this was a reliable source. Probably searching for dow 33 marker lube will give you more results. Seriously, that little tub will last for years.


----------



## kevindd992002

KCDC said:


> I edited my original post:
> 
> edit, this is the difference according to the description:
> Dow 33 Marker Lubricatnt does not swell your orings
> 
> I guess the "marker" lube is specifically meant for o-rings. He probably does repackage it, I just knew this was a reliable source. Probably searching for dow 33 marker lube will give you more results. Seriously, that little tub will last for years.


Gotcha. But if you read through the official specs of the one I linked above (Markolyte Dow Corning), it also says that it is used for O-rings with light to medium load. I guess I have to ask Captain O-ring just to be sure but yes I would like to be able to save some bucks if I could


----------



## Aenra

Who's captain o-ring and what does his uniform look like? I want to summon him.

On a serious note, you know it's O.K. if it dictates light/medium/heavy. If it doesn't, risk not. If it does, you want the 'Light' variant.


----------



## kevindd992002

KCDC said:


> I edited my original post:
> 
> edit, this is the difference according to the description:
> Dow 33 Marker Lubricatnt does not swell your orings
> 
> I guess the "marker" lube is specifically meant for o-rings. He probably does repackage it, I just knew this was a reliable source. Probably searching for dow 33 marker lube will give you more results. Seriously, that little tub will last for years.


What do you know! It's even cheaper direct from the retailer's website: https://pilotshq.com/dow-marker-lubricant-dow-corning-light-12oz-p-13749.html . +$4.09 shipping to California.


----------



## Bogga

Don't know if I ever shared the complete pictures of my last project... so in case I missed it, here you go


----------



## Yukss

nothing special


----------



## alienalvan

mrpurplehawk said:


> Did some maintenance this week and swapped from blue to green! Really like how it turned out.


Based on your loop what's the performance you're getting?


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## KCDC

kevindd992002 said:


> What do you know! It's even cheaper direct from the retailer's website: https://pilotshq.com/dow-marker-lubricant-dow-corning-light-12oz-p-13749.html . +$4.09 shipping to California.


That's what I get for not taking more google time before hitting buy... hah


----------



## kevindd992002

KCDC said:


> That's what I get for not taking more google time before hitting buy... hah


I can't blame you, it's just so much easier to buy everything from Amazon 

How do you apply this grease on the o-rings themselves? Just a very very minuscule amount applied to the o-rings (already installed in the fitting) before actually installing the fitting to the component?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

kevindd992002 said:


> I can't blame you, it's just so much easier to buy everything from Amazon
> 
> How do you apply this grease on the o-rings themselves? Just a very very minuscule amount applied to the o-rings (already installed in the fitting) before actually installing the fitting to the component?


Just put some of the grease on your finger tips and roll the o rings around with your fingers. This is not rocket science. 

TCO


----------



## kevindd992002

TheCautiousOne said:


> Just put some of the grease on your finger tips and roll the o rings around with your fingers. This is not rocket science.
> 
> TCO


Yeah, I figured.


----------



## nycgtr

Swapped to 16mm acrylic from 14mm petg. Worth it.


----------



## khemist




----------



## KCDC

kevindd992002 said:


> I can't blame you, it's just so much easier to buy everything from Amazon
> 
> How do you apply this grease on the o-rings themselves? Just a very very minuscule amount applied to the o-rings (already installed in the fitting) before actually installing the fitting to the component?


Yeah, you just smear a tiny bit on the rings, enough for a very thin coating. Doesn't really matter if there's a bit of residue, but less is more.


----------



## Eze2kiel

The smallest soft tubing connection in the world!


----------



## KCDC

Eze2kiel said:


> The smallest soft tubing connection in the world!


Oof, that angle has me cringing! Hope it stays put! I did one similar, but it was a straight line.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That shouldn't be a problem at all.


----------



## KCDC

DarthBaggins said:


> That shouldn't be a problem at all.


Good to know. :thumb:


----------



## Deeptek

khemist said:


>


Looking great. Clear coolant and no RGB for the win.


----------



## khemist

Thanks!, the ram is RGB and the LED strip is also but i keep it on White.


----------



## hrockh

Noctua NF F12 still the best for radiators? planning to use 6x on 2 Hardware Labs 360 GTS. they will be used for a Ryzen 2 + new gen GPU in a Lian Li Pc-o11 Dynamics


----------



## MNMadman

hrockh said:


> Noctua NF F12 still the best for radiators? planning to use 6x on 2 Hardware Labs 360 GTS. they will be used for a Ryzen 2 + new gen GPU in a Lian Li Pc-o11 Dynamics


"Best" is entirely subjective and depends on what your criteria are. Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM High-Speed fans are the best ones I've personally used.

The Noctuas are still good for radiators, as are a myriad of other fans.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

hrockh said:


> Noctua NF F12 still the best for radiators? planning to use 6x on 2 Hardware Labs 360 GTS. they will be used for a Ryzen 2 + new gen GPU in a Lian Li Pc-o11 Dynamics


The be quiet! SW3 seem to be the top fan for lower RPMs. 
http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/22/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-140-mm-fan/3/


----------



## hrockh

xxpenguinxx said:


> The be quiet! SW3 seem to be the top fan for lower RPMs.
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/22/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-140-mm-fan/3/


thanks 



MNMadman said:


> "Best" is entirely subjective and depends on what your criteria are. Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM High-Speed fans are the best ones I've personally used.
> 
> The Noctuas are still good for radiators, as are a myriad of other fans.


indeed, best may be personal. I'm looking for quiet at low/medium rpm while delivering considerate amount of airflow & head pressure

EDIT
contributing to this thread


----------



## andre02

Jameswalt1 said:


>


Wow, that is so Jameswalt.. Did you make the case yourself ? Very nice design.


----------



## Bill Owen

Nice JONESBO build, hrockh


----------



## Bill Owen

Nice JONESBO build, hrockh


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah that's a sweet looking custom case :thumb:


----------



## Jameswalt1

andre02 said:


> Wow, that is so Jameswalt.. Did you make the case yourself ? Very nice design.


Thanks! I designed the case, Parvum Systems made it for me.


----------



## Kimir

Bill Owen said:


> Nice JONSBO build, hrockh


Agreed. :thumb:

My RM4 is still sitting empty in my room, no time to put the build together.


----------



## hrockh

Kimir said:


> Agreed. :thumb:
> 
> My RM4 is still sitting empty in my room, no time to put the build together.





Bill Owen said:


> Nice JONESBO build, hrockh


Thank you!


----------



## emsj86

Microcenter has finally did it. Been asking for so long. So awesome. Now I’ll never go without that one fitting.


----------



## emsj86

Is there a way to polish the ek nickel backplate. I thought it would be more of a chrome/mirror finish. It has a lot of lines in it.


----------



## Yukss

new pictures


----------



## lowfat

emsj86 said:


> Is there a way to polish the ek nickel backplate. I thought it would be more of a chrome/mirror finish. It has a lot of lines in it.


A good metal polish and a good microfiber cloth.


----------



## iCrap

any tips to avoid cracking on the ek plexi top? I just replaced my old one and im just worried its gonna crack again.  Seems like its a pretty common thing to happen though. I bought a spare delrin top just incase.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just moisten the oring and don't over tighten about all that can be done.
I just use spit on a finger the old school way to lubricate


----------



## lowfat

The 3 acrylic CPU blocks I have, 2 Supreme HFs and an LTX all have substantial micro cracking. Yet my EK terminal and D5 pump top don't have issues. I always tighten fittings by hand so iunno.


----------



## MNMadman

I've had two EK plexi-top CPU blocks -- Supremacy Evos. Neither one had cracks. I also have an EK X399 Taichi plexi-top monoblock, though that's only two months old. All were used with compression fittings and flex tubing. Hand tightened.

Might just be manufacturing defects for those few that do develop cracks.


----------



## MNMadman

Damn forum double post.


----------



## Deeptek

Newest revision of my Ncase..

Also.. Is there a way to not make your pump go 100% on startup while using a motherboard fan header?


----------



## Jyve

Deeptek said:


> Newest revision of my Ncase..
> 
> Also.. Is there a way to not make your pump go 100% on startup while using a motherboard fan header?


I don't believe so. Don't fans do the same thing until bios settings kick in. Push power and everything fires up 100% then it slows down to the curve you have set.


----------



## CptSpig

Bought this last week but I am waiting for a res and parts coming Tuesday. Phobya G-Changer Xtreme NOVA 1080 radiator 60mm - Full Copper. Should help with cooling this summer. Coming from a Predator 360.


----------



## VeritronX

Deeptek said:


> Newest revision of my Ncase..
> 
> Also.. Is there a way to not make your pump go 100% on startup while using a motherboard fan header?


Depends entirely on the motherboards bios.. my new asrock z370 gaming itx board has a function where it learns the start speed of fans and then doesn't make them start at full speed.


----------



## MNMadman

CptSpig said:


> Bought this last week but I am waiting for a res and parts coming Tuesday. Phobya G-Changer Xtreme NOVA 1080 radiator 60mm - Full Copper. Should help with cooling this summer. Coming from a Predator 360.


Looks kind of familiar ... though my WetBench is white, my 1080 rad is a white Watercool MO-RA3, my quick disconnects are Koolance QD3, my fittings are Barrow compression, I have nine Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM High-Speed fans, and my coolant is Mayhems Pastel yellow.


----------



## CptSpig

MNMadman said:


> Looks kind of familiar ... though my WetBench is white, my 1080 rad is a white Watercool MO-RA3, my quick disconnects are Koolance QD3, my fittings are Barrow compression, I have nine Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM High-Speed fans, and my coolant is Mayhems Pastel yellow.


I have a mixture of Koolance and QPC QDC's. I prefer the QPC's they don't drip at all like the Koolance when you unplug the QDC. I also have a Koolance EXC-8000 chiller which I really like the performance.


----------



## iCrap

Does anyone know if a D5 Revo will fit on the XPSC photon? Does it have the same mounting as the regular D5?


----------



## Streetdragon

emsj86 said:


> Microcenter has finally did it. Been asking for so long. So awesome. Now I’ll never go without that one fitting.


How awesome is that? i wish i could have a shop here aswell.....jealous level over 8000!


----------



## Bill Owen

your NCASE look good deeptek!


----------



## Deeptek

Jyve said:


> I don't believe so. Don't fans do the same thing until bios settings kick in. Push power and everything fires up 100% then it slows down to the curve you have set.





VeritronX said:


> Depends entirely on the motherboards bios.. my new asrock z370 gaming itx board has a function where it learns the start speed of fans and then doesn't make them start at full speed


Thanks gents.



Bill Owen said:


> your NCASE look good deeptek!


Thanks Bill. Gunna pick up some MNPC feet to set it off!


----------



## lemniscate

Hi guys, I just completed building my loop, and after leak testing I found that there seems to be some liquid slipping out of my bitspower monoblock o ring. 

I’ll take the loop apart and check the block (I opened it once to clean it), is this just some improperly placed o rings or do i need to replace it? What do I need to make sure before putting the loop back together?

Fwiw I used aquacomputer’s pressure tester before filling the loop, and the pressure dropped by like 0.02 bar overnight. Since I couldn’t find any leak on the fittings using soap water I assumed it probably was just the room temperature difference causing the change in pressure, but I guess it was the monoblock leaking?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

lemniscate said:


> Hi guys, I just completed building my loop, and after leak testing I found that there seems to be some liquid slipping out of my bitspower monoblock o ring.
> 
> I’ll take the loop apart and check the block (I opened it once to clean it), is this just some improperly placed o rings or do i need to replace it? What do I need to make sure before putting the loop back together?
> 
> Fwiw I used aquacomputer’s pressure tester before filling the loop, and the pressure dropped by like 0.02 bar overnight. Since I couldn’t find any leak on the fittings using soap water I assumed it probably was just the room temperature difference causing the change in pressure, but I guess it was the monoblock leaking?


New O ring I would think. When you take it apart, make sure that the current O ring isn't pinched. Either it's pinched or the screw in that location isn't tight enough. 

TCO


----------



## milkguru

Hey guys before OCN updated their site, I remember you could just go through the images posted in a thread - without having to scroll through all the posts and their text.

Is this still possible? There used to be a thing on the top right of the page but it's no longer there


----------



## KCDC

lemniscate said:


> Hi guys, I just completed building my loop, and after leak testing I found that there seems to be some liquid slipping out of my bitspower monoblock o ring.
> 
> I’ll take the loop apart and check the block (I opened it once to clean it), is this just some improperly placed o rings or do i need to replace it? What do I need to make sure before putting the loop back together?
> 
> Fwiw I used aquacomputer’s pressure tester before filling the loop, and the pressure dropped by like 0.02 bar overnight. Since I couldn’t find any leak on the fittings using soap water I assumed it probably was just the room temperature difference causing the change in pressure, but I guess it was the monoblock leaking?





TheCautiousOne said:


> New O ring I would think. When you take it apart, make sure that the current O ring isn't pinched. Either it's pinched or the screw in that location isn't tight enough.
> 
> TCO



I'd agree and say that screw may need a little tightening. I've learned that they need to be much tighter than fittings since they're sealing an o-ring that's not directly attached to the screw. My latest model FC SLI terminal leaked like crazy when testing because I didn't tighten the mount screws super tight in fear of getting stress cracks. I think having the inset for the screws prevents stress cracks allowing you to tighten much more. Since fittings have o-rings they only need hand tightened. Throw some silicon o-ring lube on the it since you're opening it.

Sounds like it's brand new and you never opened the block? If so, I'd also let BP know. It could be a defect in the acrylic, if that's even possible. Might be worth it to just send it back for a proper block.


----------



## jon666

I don't think it is, which is a bummer for threads like this one. Sometimes I just want to oogle.


----------



## milkguru

jon666 said:


> I don't think it is, which is a bummer for threads like this one. Sometimes I just want to oogle.


Definitely.. I really liked just flipping through photo gallary on here. So much more convenient than scrolling to the bottom of the page everytime, especially when you can go through several pages of posts without seeing any new photos and people leaving photos in their quotes.


----------



## lemniscate

TheCautiousOne said:


> New O ring I would think. When you take it apart, make sure that the current O ring isn't pinched. Either it's pinched or the screw in that location isn't tight enough.
> 
> TCO





KCDC said:


> I'd agree and say that screw may need a little tightening. I've learned that they need to be much tighter than fittings since they're sealing an o-ring that's not directly attached to the screw. My latest model FC SLI terminal leaked like crazy when testing because I didn't tighten the mount screws super tight in fear of getting stress cracks. I think having the inset for the screws prevents stress cracks allowing you to tighten much more. Since fittings have o-rings they only need hand tightened. Throw some silicon o-ring lube on the it since you're opening it.
> 
> Sounds like it's brand new and you never opened the block? If so, I'd also let BP know. It could be a defect in the acrylic, if that's even possible. Might be worth it to just send it back for a proper block.


Thanks guys, it was indeed the monoblock. I took it apart and replaced the o rings with the spares that were supplied with it. I might have under tightened the screws or damaged the o rings when I disassembled the block for the first time to clean it (it was strangely oily so I washed it with soap and distilled water).

The system is back up and running, this time the aquacomputer pressure tester didn’t detect any pressure drop overnight.


----------



## zeroibis

lemniscate said:


> Fwiw I used aquacomputer’s pressure tester before filling the loop, and the pressure dropped by like 0.02 bar overnight. Since I couldn’t find any leak on the fittings using soap water I assumed it probably was just the room temperature difference causing the change in pressure, but I guess it was the monoblock leaking?


Just for reference your not supposed to run the pressure test that long:


zeroibis said:


> Also does anyone else have issues pressure testing the aquainlet with the Dr. Drop? I am observing that the res does not form a "perfect" seal at the top. It loses about 0.02 after 12 hours. You can start to see movement but not enough to measure accurately, perhaps around 0.008 bar after 2 hours.
> 
> I figure this is so small and at the top of the res it should not matter but I wanted to ensure this was normal and not something that was just effecting me.





Shoggy said:


> Dr. Drop is not really suitable for a 12 hour test because the device itself will also lose air by time. So if you wait long enough, everything seems to be leaking


----------



## lemniscate

zeroibis said:


> Just for reference your not supposed to run the pressure test that long:


Thanks for the info, I just left it longer due to work/sleep schedule lol. More practical to leave it overnight and go to sleep, or leave it in the morning before going to work. Nice to know that a small variation of pressure reading is expected though.


----------



## nanotm

yeah most pressure test kits are designed to be used for a matter of minutes, you charge it up check the reading over a short time, (up to 10 minutes) and then you stop them, unless of course you notice a pressure difference thats out of tolerance in which case you check the leak status often adding in dye's so they are more readily viewable under a uv light source


----------



## zeroibis

lemniscate said:


> Thanks for the info, I just left it longer due to work/sleep schedule lol. More practical to leave it overnight and go to sleep, or leave it in the morning before going to work. Nice to know that a small variation of pressure reading is expected though.


What I do find interesting is that we both measured the same amount of pressure loss over about the same amount of time lol. At least we know the pressure loss over time from the pressure tester appears to be a near constant value.


----------



## CptAsian

milkguru said:


> Hey guys before OCN updated their site, I remember you could just go through the images posted in a thread - without having to scroll through all the posts and their text.
> 
> Is this still possible? There used to be a thing on the top right of the page but it's no longer there


We have something far worse than a gallery, and it's probably easier to just browse the whole thread, but I'll share this anyways:










Hitting that button I circled in read from outside the thread will give you a list of photo attachments in this thread, but if people (like me in this post) don't use attachments to make a cleaner-looking post, they won't appear there. Also, it's clunky and there are no image previews.

As far as I'm aware, there is a gallery in the works that's meant to replicate what we had previously, but there was no ETA on it. So I'd just wait it out and be pleasantly surprised when something shows up.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Do you guys run your loop with only distilled water or you add additive? Did a recent study showed something different recently?

I usually add this to the loop 

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode-protector/#reviews_summary

But in the past I used to use distilled with pure silver without issue.


----------



## MNMadman

KaRLiToS said:


> Do you guys run your loop with only distilled water or you add additive? Did a recent study showed something different recently?
> 
> I usually add this to the loop
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode-protector/#reviews_summary
> 
> But in the past I used to use distilled with pure silver without issue.


I ran distilled water plus killcoil for almost two years in my first loop. Since then, I've always used premixed coolants. My current loop uses Mayhems Pastel yellow.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I prefer the pastel concentrate + DW approach ... used red pastel + red dye for a darker red ... but the red turned to purple then black... drained loop, blitzed rads and did again... turned black again. Not sure what I gonna do come next month when I will replace again. Acrylic tubing is stained ... not sure I wanna take all apart and clean tubing to use another color.


----------



## KaRLiToS

MNMadman said:


> I ran distilled water plus killcoil for almost two years in my first loop. Since then, I've always used premixed coolants. My current loop uses Mayhems Pastel yellow.


Did you run into any issue with your first loop?


----------



## MNMadman

KaRLiToS said:


> Did you run into any issue with your first loop?


Nope. Never needed any maintenance either -- just the occasional top-up of distilled water.


----------



## Panzerfury

Edit: The forum ****ed up, and wouldn't post the first time.


----------



## Panzerfury

Just finished a build in a Fractal Design Define R6. It was so much nicer to work with than my Corsair 460x. 
Couldn't fit my 120mm rad in the back, without removing the wall. But I kinda like that the wall hides my res and front rad. So i'll live without my 120.
I gained 120mm rad space anyway, since i now have a 240 in the top, and the 460x couldn't fit that.


----------



## zeroibis

KaRLiToS said:


> Do you guys run your loop with only distilled water or you add additive? Did a recent study showed something different recently?
> 
> I usually add this to the loop
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode-protector/#reviews_summary
> 
> But in the past I used to use distilled with pure silver without issue.


I use Mayhems XT-1 Nuke Coolant Concentrate mixed with distilled from the store.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Forgot to post these here of my completed build.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
White and blue very slick :thumb:


----------



## CptSpig

PuffinMyLye said:


> Forgot to post these here of my completed build.


Very Nice...you must have a lot of patience! :thumb:


----------



## CptSpig

I love QDC's for fast hardware changes.



Spoiler


----------



## PuffinMyLye

CptSpig said:


> Very Nice...you must have a lot of patience! :thumb:


You have no idea...or maybe you do .


----------



## CptSpig

PuffinMyLye said:


> You have no idea...or maybe you do .


I don't look at the Spoiler in the post above yours.


----------



## rolldog

jvillaveces said:


> :drool:
> :who-let-r
> 
> I'm so envious!


Thanks! I was hesitant at first to mod this case since In Win only made a handful of them, but 60 seconds later I was cutting the PCIe slots off the back of the case so I could mount my GPU vertically. My old CaseLabs TH10A had a reverse conversion kit I bought for it, but I had to do it myself this time. I also swapped the black metal mesh on the top of the case for stainless steel, and if you look closely at the top, I made some 1 inch spacers out of chrome plated brass tubing to raise the top some so my Aquacomputer radiator would fit. I bought 2, one was going to be mounted in the front, but there wasn't enough room for it.


----------



## Ovrclck

PuffinMyLye said:


> Forgot to post these here of my completed build.


Looks clean man!


----------



## Ovrclck

CptSpig said:


> I love QDC's for fast hardware changes.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler



If only there was something for rigid tubing. I'm thinking of going back to regular tubing for that very reason.


----------



## azcrazy

First try with hard tubing


----------



## emsj86

Did you get shy bitspower reservoir off he market place ?


----------



## azcrazy

emsj86 said:


> Did you get shy bitspower reservoir off he market place ?



yea i got it from the market place, cant remember the name of the seller


----------



## DarthBaggins

I always snagged parts of the marketplace, last thing I got was 4 D5's so I have spares (I always run duals for redundancy)


----------



## zumppjr96

A few photos of my updated build in the CaseLabs SM8


----------



## Barefooter

^^ That looks sweet!


----------



## emsj86

azcrazy said:


> emsj86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you get shy bitspower reservoir off he market place ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yea i got it from the market place, cant remember the name of the seller
Click to expand...

 I was wondering because I pretty sure that was me that sold it to you. Nice to see the build out of it


----------



## emsj86

Back to pastel white. Looking for a change once I get the money to do so. Thinking Lian Li pco11 Rog edition and 16mm tubing. Vertical gpu mount.


----------



## VeritronX

emsj86 said:


> Back to pastel white. Looking for a change once I get the money to do so. Thinking Lian Li pco11 Rog edition and 16mm tubing. Vertical gpu mount.


Why not the 011 Dynamic instead? offset side mount is nice on that.


----------



## Dortheleus

Question: Has anyone notice if there's a temp diff. with the quantity of liquide you have in your loop? Is there a diff. in temps if you have a small reservoir or a larger one?


----------



## Dortheleus

Question: How much $$$$ do you think you spend per year on your PC? Parents money does count but not client's money.


----------



## dwolvin

Size of res / quantity of liquid sill just slow the thermal rate of change, but the overall delta (cpu/gpu to liquid) will depend on rad size/pump/fan speed. Or another way: more liquid will heat up slower, but will still eventually get to the same temperature.


----------



## zumppjr96

Dortheleus said:


> Question: Has anyone notice if there's a temp diff. with the quantity of liquide you have in your loop? Is there a diff. in temps if you have a small reservoir or a larger one?


I have had 150ml, 200ml, and 250ml reservoirs and haven't noticed any difference in temps. The amount of fluid shouldn't have any effect on temps.


----------



## Dortheleus

Thanks gang


----------



## dallas1990

Dortheleus said:


> Question: How much $$$$ do you think you spend per year on your PC? Parents money does count but not client's money.


i spent $900 on my first loop. res, fittings, gpu and cpu blocks, rads, pump, tubing, fans. i been using the same rads, fittings, res, pump, fans and cpu block for 4 years now. i think its time for an upgrade and new shiny parts. planning on water cooling my zotac 1080ti amp extreme, msi godlike carbon with i7 6800k, new rads, fans, res w/ pump combo and fittings. haven't decided if i want to go hard line or stay with soft tubing. i been using distilled water with a silver coil so i might get some premixed ek cryofuel fluid. havent heard anything nightmarish yet from it unlike mayhems and primochill vue. which is ashame i wanted to get the primochill vue in green. going with a alien theme black and green. probably get a thermaltake view 71 all sides glass to hold in that alien acid blood lol.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Dortheleus said:


> Question: How much $$$$ do you think you spend per year on your PC? Parents money does count but not client's money.


Not much. I only rebuild once every few years. Lian Li PC011 is making me spend a lot redoing my loop. My current loop does just fine, but the new case calls for updating waterblock, rads, and moving to hard tubing! Overall average I would guess is ~$300 every 3-4 years.


----------



## emsj86

Probably about 1k each year. Usually due to updating either the gpu every other generation with a new water block or cpu. But with my kids getting older and me wanting a house I think I’ll hold off to small changes for alittle. Hence why I went with a black white build to allow for color change of the fluid to help scratch the itch. Plus honestly 4790k is still doing great. I don’t edit much so the new cpus are not really an upgrade (or atleast not enough to justify a new board cpu and ram


----------



## MNMadman

Dortheleus said:


> Question: How much $$$$ do you think you spend per year on your PC? Parents money does count but not client's money.


I build a new PC every one to two years. The longest I've kept one since I started building was 26 months.

I spent $6,088.02 on this year's build, *Heatripper Threadkiller*. But a typical amount is $2,500 or so.


----------



## Dortheleus

I believe that writing down how much one spends helps to spend more intelligently.  Thanks for the share gang.


----------



## dallas1990

Does it make you feel smarter if I told you in the 4 years of my first/current loop I never cleaned it. I just been using distilled water with a silver coil in it lol. One reason why Im getting new stuff plus 4 years is a long time to cool. Went from a fx-8320 oc'd to 4.8ghz. to a i7 6800k at 4.2 GHz, all on the same pump, block and rads with fans.


----------



## khemist

Having a tinker with the loop, added a temp sensor for no good reason.


----------



## alienalvan

khemist said:


> Having a tinker with the loop, added a temp sensor for no good reason.


Seems like we're having the same temp sensor


----------



## chibi

Cool looking sensor, what's the SKU # for that?


----------



## khemist

Barrow FBT02, comes in silver as well and there is a newer FT03 version also i think.


----------



## khemist

Barrow FBT02, comes in silver as well and there is a newer F03 version also i think.


----------



## khemist

Barrow FBFT02, comes in silver as well and there is a newer FBT03 version also i think.


----------



## iamjanco

khemist said:


> Barrow FBT02, comes in silver as well and there is a newer FBT03 version also i think.


*FTB03* is the flow meter version of the product. Does look nice though.


----------



## Ithanul

That one nice looking temp sensor. May nab myself one since my XSPC one decided to kick the bucket a while back.


----------



## MNMadman

Dortheleus said:


> I believe that writing down how much one spends helps to spend more intelligently.  Thanks for the share gang.


Yes. Don't spend like I do!

This is the one vice I'm allowed. I don't drink, smoke, gamble, go on expensive vacations, or spend money on other non-essentials. I could put the money away, but where's the fun in that?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Does anyone remember what the pricing of the Limited Edition gold/black EK Supremacy Evo was, im thinking about ordering the one of the new ones on Tuesday and was wondering ball park what id be looking at


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like I'll be shelving a build I've been working on to await newer hardware later this year, so Temper Tantrum will be getting a refresh lol (will be swapping res, pumps, rad, fans and cpu)


----------



## emsj86

I can’t find the barrow in line temp sensor any links please?


----------



## DarthBaggins

All I'm finding is the stop-plug version.


----------



## Jokesterwild

emsj86 said:


> I can’t find the barrow in line temp sensor any links please?


you mean this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/G1-...5ccd-446f-9934-0a402b31d6d9&priceBeautifyAB=0


----------



## Deedaz

DarthBaggins said:


> All I'm finding is the stop-plug version.


Here you go.


----------



## iamjanco

Deedaz said:


> Here you go.


That's them, they're currently only available via aliexpress. OCN users have been ordering through Formulamod, so they're likely the safest best.


----------



## emsj86

Thank you


----------



## Qu1ckset

Here are some quick shots of my build, not finished yet, but thought id share!


----------



## Qu1ckset

What software you guys using to control your fans/fan hubs?

ive always used Asus AI Suite with my M7H, but now that I have a PWM Hub, everytime I turn on the computer it never saved the settings, really annoying, and time to move of from that software lol


----------



## MNMadman

Qu1ckset said:


> What software you guys using to control your fans/fan hubs?
> 
> ive always used Asus AI Suite with my M7H, but now that I have a PWM Hub, everytime I turn on the computer it never saved the settings, really annoying, and time to move of from that software lol


None. BIOS control is superior.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Qu1ckset said:


> What software you guys using to control your fans/fan hubs?
> 
> ive always used Asus AI Suite with my M7H, but now that I have a PWM Hub, everytime I turn on the computer it never saved the settings, really annoying, and time to move of from that software lol



SpeedFan.


----------



## KCDC

Qu1ckset said:


> What software you guys using to control your fans/fan hubs?
> 
> ive always used Asus AI Suite with my M7H, but now that I have a PWM Hub, everytime I turn on the computer it never saved the settings, really annoying, and time to move of from that software lol



Ignore AIsuite

Use BIOS or go all in and use speedfan. I'm not a fan (pun intended) of speedfan, but others are.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Aquasuite works really well for control inside the OS (permitting you're using compatible hardware etc)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Double post bug


----------



## Jokesterwild

Trying out UFO Cryo-chillz


----------



## MNMadman

Jokesterwild said:


> Trying out UFO Cryo-chillz


I was very tempted by Cryo-Chillz after PrimoChill VUE crashed and burned for a lot of people, but I decided to go with Mayhems Pastel instead.

I may try the Cryo-Chillz in my next build.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Never seen a pink ufo


----------



## Gilles3000

DarthBaggins said:


> Aquasuite works really well for control inside the OS (permitting you're using compatible hardware etc)


I wish they would release something like a aquaero 6 LT Basic that still has multiple PWM fan channels but otherwise reduced features/power, to replace the aquaero 5 LT.


I'm tired of using the softwaregore grade utilities motherboard vendors provide, but dropping €100 on a aquaero 6 LT doesn't make a whole lot of sense either.


----------



## Mikecdm

Qu1ckset said:


> What software you guys using to control your fans/fan hubs?
> 
> ive always used Asus AI Suite with my M7H, but now that I have a PWM Hub, everytime I turn on the computer it never saved the settings, really annoying, and time to move of from that software lol


I still use the AI suite when i want to control fans. None of my fans are pwm and I had used the phanteks pwm hub with my old case. AI suite worked as inteded with that setup. When I switched over to the Fractal R6, I decided to use the same phanteks pwm hub, instead of trying to see if the one included with the case works.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Gilles3000 said:


> I wish they would release something like a aquaero 6 LT Basic that still has multiple PWM fan channels but otherwise reduced features/power, to replace the aquaero 5 LT.
> 
> 
> I'm tired of using the softwaregore grade utilities motherboard vendors provide, but dropping €100 on a aquaero 6 LT doesn't make a whole lot of sense either.


I was looking at getting the 6LT to pair with my Splitty 9 & PA 3 Ultra
They aren't badly priced when I find them on Amazon


----------



## dallas1990

Jokesterwild said:


> Trying out UFO Cryo-chillz


keep us informed how this stuff goes for ya. im intrested in the green, would use the primochill vue but i dont want to change it every month or so.


----------



## Streetdragon

WHat liquid was Jayztwocent using? that glittery stuff that cleaned the coolingfins while looking awesome?
Thinking of buying a bottle and fill the rest up with distilled water to save cash if that is ok


----------



## dallas1990

Streetdragon said:


> WHat liquid was Jayztwocent using? that glittery stuff that cleaned the coolingfins while looking awesome?
> Thinking of buying a bottle and fill the rest up with distilled water to save cash if that is ok


primochill vue. the blue gunked up on him. but it was preproduction stuff. i dont know if they had time to change the formula to prevent that from happening though. as of right now most people use as a show piece then a everyday fluid.


----------



## Streetdragon

dallas1990 said:


> primochill vue. the blue gunked up on him. but it was preproduction stuff. i dont know if they had time to change the formula to prevent that from happening though. as of right now most people use as a show piece then a everyday fluid.


Ah ok thanks. just read that it cant be toped up with distilled water... https://keepingit.cool/vue ... feels bad^^


----------



## dallas1990

Streetdragon said:


> dallas1990 said:
> 
> 
> 
> primochill vue. the blue gunked up on him. but it was preproduction stuff. i dont know if they had time to change the formula to prevent that from happening though. as of right now most people use as a show piece then a everyday fluid.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah ok thanks. just read that it cant be toped up with distilled water... https://keepingit.cool/vue ... feels bad^^
Click to expand...

 yea, I'm looking at the ufo fluid haven't heard anything about it so for but it may be something to consider but idk. So far it seems like distilled water and dyes are only way for hassel free cooling. Least in water cooling


----------



## Yukss

edited double post


----------



## Yukss

new pics


----------



## khemist




----------



## paskowitz

This one was deceptively difficult. You don't see pictures of the back because there probably a mile of cables (fan PWM, fan lighting, each and every UV fitting and strip, 8 SATA plugs, temp sensors, etc, etc).


----------



## PatrickCrowely

chibi said:


> Cool looking sensor, what's the SKU # for that?




http://www.barrowch.com/product/product-58-973.html


----------



## Bill Owen

@paskowitz, nice job! a 570X project is currently occupying my workshop, with mock up loop here, https://twitter.com/Mnpctech/status/992480651852111872


----------



## Ithanul

Yukss said:


> new pics


Seems you don't need a light stand in that room. The computer is the light stand.  



khemist said:


>


Nice, very clean.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Bill Owen said:


> @paskowitz, nice job! a 570X project is currently occupying my workshop, with mock up loop here, https://twitter.com/Mnpctech/status/992480651852111872


Starting to look good :thumb: I know it's a mock up, seeing a few lines that need to be tweaked


----------



## paskowitz

Bill Owen said:


> @*paskowitz* , nice job! a 570X project is currently occupying my workshop, with mock up loop here, https://twitter.com/Mnpctech/status/992480651852111872


Thanks Bill! Much appreciated. Really digging those bends. Interested to see what it will look like lit up.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I am taking the dive to hardline and was wondering what is the best hardline tubing to use with the pastels and xt1 nuke? Not alot of good threads on here about these questions 

I want it to look ultra clear i am polishing all my blocks.


And what fittings would be good with said tubing
Is the bitspower noncampher stuff with the allen key good
Or should i go with the monsoons and freecenter fittings?

Whats up with that alphacoool boroglass?
With the bends? Are they descent?


----------



## Nick the Slick

Been a while since I've posted here, not sure what all I've done since then but here she is. Please excuse the raggedy sleeving on the GPU 8 pin, had to sleeve a 6 to 8 pin extension I had lying around since I no longer have an 8 pin pcie cable for my psu. Need to get one ordered and do it properly.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Love that shade of teal/blue!


----------



## Nick the Slick

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Love that shade of teal/blue!


Yes, it's my favorite color, I was so glad it turned out like that. It's like 10-15 drops (I think. I stopped counting after the first couple) of Mayhems regular blue die. I love how it looks in the purple light too lol.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Nick the Slick said:


> Yes, it's my favorite color, I was so glad it turned out like that. It's like 10-15 drops (I think. I stopped counting after the first couple) of Mayhems regular blue die. I love how it looks in the purple light too lol.


Oh really? It actually looks very teal to me! I'm gonna go with pastel white, but I might go to just blue dye after seeing that!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Made some progress on my InWin 303 rebuild
(Should be finished tomorrow)


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Looking good Darth :thumb:


----------



## Blze001

Have people had problems with Optimus water blocks? I have my build together, yet I get this occasional water drip while leak testing that looks almost like it's coming from the screw where the board screws in. Any ideas on what it could be? It only happens when I have the pump running.

So annoyed right now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I haven't had a chance to use one yet, I would check all the screws holding it together and make sure they're tightened properly (normally recommended on any block before use)



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looking good Darth :thumb:


Thanks, I almost forgot to put a drain in the loop as well but figured that out.
Looks like I won't be using the dual pump setup for now either.




**Update** finally finished until I order the remaining cables


----------



## TheCautiousOne

tatmMRKIV said:


> I am taking the dive to hardline and was wondering what is the best hardline tubing to use with the pastels and xt1 nuke? Not alot of good threads on here about these questions
> 
> I want it to look ultra clear i am polishing all my blocks.
> 
> 
> And what fittings would be good with said tubing
> Is the bitspower noncampher stuff with the allen key good
> Or should i go with the monsoons and freecenter fittings?
> 
> Whats up with that alphacoool boroglass?
> With the bends? Are they descent?


I never had a problem using 12mm Bitspower Crystal Link Tubing. Allen Key with Tubing? I am not following. I always used Bitspower 12mm Fittings. Just champhered the tubing myself with sandpaper. 

Have fun polishing blocks. 

TCO


----------



## tatmMRKIV

TheCautiousOne said:


> I never had a problem using 12mm Bitspower Crystal Link Tubing. Allen Key with Tubing? I am not following. I always used Bitspower 12mm Fittings. Just champhered the tubing myself with sandpaper.
> 
> Have fun polishing blocks.
> 
> TCO


Fittings not tubing 
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bits...tube-fitting-mht16-6-pack-abrasive-black.html


----------



## Blze001

Well, I got the loop put together, figured out what the leak was, ran it for 24h with no leaks, assembled everything else and when I pushed the button nothing happens. No idea what could be wrong, and I don't know how to test it without disassembling the entire thing, rigging up some half-assed test bench, and putting things on one by one.

I'm thinking I should've just kept the stupid thing air cooled.


----------



## inedenimadam

Blze001 said:


> Well, I got the loop put together, figured out what the leak was, ran it for 24h with no leaks, assembled everything else and when I pushed the button nothing happens. No idea what could be wrong, and I don't know how to test it without disassembling the entire thing, rigging up some half-assed test bench, and putting things on one by one.
> 
> I'm thinking I should've just kept the stupid thing air cooled.



Most of us have been there man. Stick with it. It will be worth it in the end.



Good luck.


----------



## Blze001

inedenimadam said:


> Most of us have been there man. Stick with it. It will be worth it in the end.
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck.


I'm just not sure what to do now. Do I troubleshoot and keep going with this idea of mine to watercool a Hadron Air? (everything fits, it's just nothing works)

Do I give up and get a new Mini-ITX case that is meant for watercooling, but then suffer with hamstrung performance because I have slim radiators?


----------



## Inelastic

Blze001 said:


> I'm just not sure what to do now. Do I troubleshoot and keep going with this idea of mine to watercool a Hadron Air? (everything fits, it's just nothing works)
> 
> Do I give up and get a new Mini-ITX case that is meant for watercooling, but then suffer with hamstrung performance because I have slim radiators?


Assuming it's not the switch on the back of the PSU:
Unplug and plug in all the cables at both ends, if the PSU is modular. Last time I put my pc back together, it did the same thing. Turned out that I just had to unplug/plug the 24-pin cable back into the PSU.
Try shorting the two power pins on the mobo instead of using the case power button (to check if it's the button).
Try removing the 24-pin atx cable off the mobo and jumper the two pins there to see if the power supply will even turn on.
Try removing all the cables connected to the PSU except the 24-pin to see if the mobo will power on.

That's all I can think of now without tearing it down.


----------



## Blze001

Inelastic said:


> Assuming it's not the switch on the back of the PSU:
> Unplug and plug in all the cables at both ends, if the PSU is modular. Last time I put my pc back together, it did the same thing. Turned out that I just had to unplug/plug the 24-pin cable back into the PSU.
> Try shorting the two power pins on the mobo instead of using the case power button (to check if it's the button).
> Try removing the 24-pin atx cable off the mobo and jumper the two pins there to see if the power supply will even turn on.
> Try removing all the cables connected to the PSU except the 24-pin to see if the mobo will power on.
> 
> That's all I can think of now without tearing it down.


I've tried a few of those. I'm stepping away before I get too angry and I'm going to readdress things after work tomorrow. Might be as silly as me having the front case wires crossed.

I did the jumper on the PSU, it powers on and starts the pump, so it's not that. Probably will hack together a loop sans the GPU and see if I can get just the onboard working. If that isn't it, I can be reasonably sure it's the motherboard.


----------



## eucalyptus

green and chrome


----------



## Tomlintm

my first pc i ever watercooled


----------



## dwolvin

Hey Eucalyptus, what are the res's with fan blades in them?


----------



## eucalyptus

dwolvin said:


> Hey Eucalyptus, what are the res's with fan blades in them?


Flow meters. Using a total of 8 in this build, 4 acrylic (left one) and 4 cylinders (chrome)


----------



## Deedaz

eucalyptus said:


> green and chrome



Wow, how did you get the fittings so close together? Looks amazing! :thumb:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ugh release this ish , after already purchased 5 fans from them!


----------



## MNMadman

Qu1ckset said:


> Ugh release this ish , after already purchased 5 fans from them!


Would be cool to have the white version with RGB blades.


----------



## VeritronX

So I have a supremacy evo block and I'm having trouble keeping my cpu under 70C when it's pulling 200W+, is that normal? Cpu is a R7 1700 which is a soldered chip, thermal paste is hydronaught.

I've tried both the dot method and spreading it thinly on the chip and it still gets hot. I have a 10W ddc and a rs360 rad, 3x scythe gt's at 1000rpm in push with fresh air.


----------



## Streetdragon

i wanna cheange 3 soft tubes with PETG tubes. i think a singe 90° bend is easy done. But the problem is, two of the tubes need two 90° bends with a 90° twist between them. 
Question is: How can i measure the lenght where i have to start the second bend? Or is it try and burn through some pipes?


----------



## aerial

External radiator (9x120/4x180) + benchtable (Lian Li Q06) 
Album: https://imgur.com/a/JIGPQka


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Pretty cool aerial :thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

eucalyptus said:


> green and chrome


Hi,
Sweet :thumbsups


----------



## Nick the Slick

VeritronX said:


> So I have a supremacy evo block and I'm having trouble keeping my cpu under 70C when it's pulling 200W+, is that normal? Cpu is a R7 1700 which is a soldered chip, thermal paste is hydronaught.
> 
> I've tried both the dot method and spreading it thinly on the chip and it still gets hot. I have a 10W ddc and a rs360 rad, 3x scythe gt's at 1000rpm in push with fresh air.


I'm having a similar experience with my 7700k. Delidded with conductonaut on the die and using that new innovative cooling graphite pad between block and ihs but temps were the same with gelid gc extreme, ambient temps 25-27c, water temps max out at 30c under x264 stress test. Cpu is at 5ghz 1.37v and runs 80-85c with x264. Not sure if this is normal or not either.


----------



## Ironsmack

VeritronX said:


> So I have a supremacy evo block and I'm having trouble keeping my cpu under 70C when it's pulling 200W+, is that normal? Cpu is a R7 1700 which is a soldered chip, thermal paste is hydronaught.
> 
> I've tried both the dot method and spreading it thinly on the chip and it still gets hot. I have a 10W ddc and a rs360 rad, 3x scythe gt's at 1000rpm in push with fresh air.



Well, what's your voltage?

Is your setup in a restrictive case? Or high airflow case?

Whats the temp if you raise the speed of the fan?


----------



## VeritronX

Ironsmack said:


> Well, what's your voltage?
> 
> Is your setup in a restrictive case? Or high airflow case?
> 
> Whats the temp if you raise the speed of the fan?


It's basically in open air atm, filter and both side panels are still off. It's 1.38v under load, peaked at 220W during a 10hr prime95 blend test using 14GB of ram. Temp peaked at 77C and caused some workers to fail.. It's stable until the temp gets too high, doesn't like over 75C under max load. I changed the fan profile so that it hits 100% fan speed at 70C, still got to 77C with maxed out 1850rpm GT's.

I think it's mostly mount related because I managed a slightly better result with a D14 and two 2200rpm vardars, was hoping to keep it under 70C with slower fans by using the 360 rad. Sure it's older gear apart from the cpu block, but it worked pretty well on my original i7 back in the day and should still work?


----------



## Recr3ational

Hi guys!
Been years since I’ve been on this thread. Still not used too new OCN. 

Anyway, preordered a 1000D last week and just looking for some PETG tubing. For some reason I’m unable to find any Primochill’s tubing in the UK. Anyone tried monsoon’s tubing with Primochills fittings? Also unable to find answers using google. 

Cheers!


----------



## Deedaz

Recr3ational said:


> Hi guys!
> Been years since I’ve been on this thread. Still not used too new OCN.
> 
> Anyway, preordered a 1000D last week and just looking for some PETG tubing. For some reason I’m unable to find any Primochill’s tubing in the UK. Anyone tried monsoon’s tubing with Primochills fittings? Also unable to find answers using google.
> 
> Cheers!


I have primochill and monsoon tubing and they both work fine with the primochill fittings.


----------



## alienalvan

Looks cool


----------



## VeritronX

I think the AM4 backplate has M4 threads, so I should be able to thread my old mounting bolts from my 2010 supreme hf block through it and use the springs and thumb nuts from that, giving me a straight down perfectly aligned mount and more control of the mounting pressure. Hopefully I can get my R7 to run cooler this way.


----------



## Blze001

Well, I played around with the cables. I think this stupid attempt killed my motherboard, which I can't replace so I'm looking at a brand new computer.

I dunno what to do now. Part of me wants to have a watercooled PC still, but another part of me is weirdly certain I'll just fry any new components I buy and it'll be good money after bad.


----------



## SavantStrike

Blze001 said:


> Well, I played around with the cables. I think this stupid attempt killed my motherboard, which I can't replace so I'm looking at a brand new computer.
> 
> I dunno what to do now. Part of me wants to have a watercooled PC still, but another part of me is weirdly certain I'll just fry any new components I buy and it'll be good money after bad.


What motherboard did you have?

As for frying, that's really rare. Did you have a leak?


----------



## nycgtr

Just sharing one of the newer monoblocks I got in recently. bitspower X299 xpower. Possibly my favorite looking monoblocks outta all the ones I've had.


----------



## Recr3ational

Deedaz said:


> I have primochill and monsoon tubing and they both work fine with the primochill fittings.


Thank you mate.
Saves me a lot of troubles and postage costs.


----------



## Blze001

SavantStrike said:


> What motherboard did you have?
> 
> As for frying, that's really rare. Did you have a leak?


ASRock Z87E-ITX. Z87/97 ITX boards are kinda hard to track down these days. I had a small splash, but I dried it completely and it sat for a good 4 days before I tried to feed power through it.

I'm in kind of a difficult situation because I don't have room for a full ATX case, but it seems like only the most experienced watercoolers can build something reliably in something smaller.


----------



## SavantStrike

Blze001 said:


> ASRock Z87E-ITX. Z87/97 ITX boards are kinda hard to track down these days. I had a small splash, but I dried it completely and it sat for a good 4 days before I tried to feed power through it.
> 
> I'm in kind of a difficult situation because I don't have room for a full ATX case, but it seems like only the most experienced watercoolers can build something reliably in something smaller.


Oh, you must have either had a short or your hardware gave up the ghost during the move to new cooling.

I would encourage you to try again. You'll love the results and it sounds like you just had a freak accident. 

Case wise it's definitely harder with mini itx, but it's still doable with the right case. Which case are you using?


----------



## Deedaz

Finished the upgrade to an 8700k


----------



## dwolvin

nycgtr - Beautiful!


----------



## Blze001

SavantStrike said:


> Oh, you must have either had a short or your hardware gave up the ghost during the move to new cooling.
> 
> I would encourage you to try again. You'll love the results and it sounds like you just had a freak accident.
> 
> Case wise it's definitely harder with mini itx, but it's still doable with the right case. Which case are you using?


I transplanted it back to the old case, it sporadically powers on and off, but no display signal, so it's dead.

EDIT: After trying with individual sticks, then putting both back in, it booted. I have no idea why. I'm abandoning my "full loop in a Hadron Air" project, even if I had everything fitting just fine before this mobo issue. I think the power button is broken on the case, and I kinda just want an easy build at this point. Fractal Node S is a good compromise in space and ease to work in, yeah?


----------



## kevindd992002

Can someone tell me why a pass-through fitting have an O-ring in it? I don't think the O-ring is there to seal the fitting.


----------



## fx3861

kevindd992002 said:


> Can someone tell me why a pass-through fitting have an O-ring in it? I don't think the O-ring is there to seal the fitting.


To act as a soft washer to prevent cosmetic scratches & distribute even pressure to prevent cracking on acrylic boards.


----------



## kevindd992002

fx3861 said:


> To act as a soft washer to prevent cosmetic scratches & distribute even pressure to prevent cracking on acrylic boards.


That's what I thought. So I guess I'm good because I'll put this in a metal and there were already cosmetic scratches in it because of the drilling process.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Finished my Lian Li PC011D build!










First time running hard tube. Will fix the bad bends next time I take it apart.


----------



## Vlada011

In most of watercooling RIGs I saw people use EK XRES D5 Revo but normal edition.
I bought Glass, guys this is amazing quality. I can't explain, really when you keep in hand you see that worth his price, perfect finish, heavy, no traces of manufacturer process.
Really is bad because too small number of people choose glass. 

When EKWB launched him I was so excited and I knew that If I use custom loop I will use him. 
But I expect to more people switch to Glass version. 
Even better would be If one day I decide to change fitting and replace tubes with glass tubes, completely flat small pipes. That's real thing.
Because of that I didn't order kits.
I could save pretty much with kits but I couldn't resist to Glass version.
And 100 is not so small, I think he will satisfied and people with mid and minim build.
I use him with possibility to install in smalle cases.
I'm really glad that I didn't use RGB version because no Glass tube.


----------



## Blze001

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Finished my Lian Li PC011D build!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time running hard tube. Will fix the bad bends next time I take it apart.


It took me a second to realize the picture was rotated, I thought the case had the IO coming out the bottom!


----------



## Vlada011

Guys can this cutter to serve to soft tubes for watercooling.
It's very similar as XSPC, Barrow and other on Aliexpress only is aluminium and stainless steal and they are 3 times cheaper than XSPC.
This is smaller size to 42mm, there are bigger to 50mm tubes...
If they are fine I will order them.
My opinion is they will easy to cut soft tubes, only difference is blade on these are flat, and Barrow or XSPC have little triangle.
That confuse me.


----------



## BrjSan

No reason not to cut the tube as long as it fits. I never used any thing like this before, i frankly used kitchen knife to cut the tube (true story)


----------



## Vlada011

Why not, it's cheap and very close to me. I want to cut best possible cut, edges.
It's less than 3 euro. I don't see reason why to cut with kitchen knife if this could help.
Like I sad only blade is flat, not as you can find on scissors from brands who produce watercooling equipment, that make me confused.


----------



## Vlada011

They are cheap and close to me, only flat blade confused me little but I think I will cut tubes with them.


----------



## SavantStrike

Vlada011 said:


> They are cheap and close to me, only flat blade confused me little but I think I will cut tubes with them.


The flat blade shouldn't affect performance. I use a tubing cutter from a hardware store (not a water cooling vendor), and if anything it's built more sturdily because it will cut PVC pipe.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have a set from Snap-On/BluePoint that cut tubing beautifully


----------



## emsj86

Only downside to getting one that is cheap is it’s usually wears out fast. Grab one from a local hardware store. Anything labeled pvc cutter will work


----------



## Barefooter

DarthBaggins said:


> I have a set from Snap-On/BluePoint that cut tubing beautifully


Yeah, you can't beat Snap-On/BluePoint tools. You have to pay up for them, but well worth it!


----------



## Andrew LB

I use a standard razor blade to cut soft tubing. Only paid $4.99 for a 100 pack.


----------



## Streetdragon

hmm i cut my soft tubes with a machete xD Place the tube on the floor or wood, place the machete on the tube where you wanan cut it and hit on the back of the blade -> perfekt clean cut


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Should probably be in ghetto rigging" shenanigans thread 
x99 Sabertooth added mono block and another ek top pump just like my x299 rig matter of fact they are twins no image of the x299 though 
Put my ek water block on my ftw3 as well it's working much better now assembled right this time


----------



## Qu1ckset

Everytime i turn on my computer my bios fan controller says something is new on the cpu fan header(my pwm hub) , if i put the hub on a different fan header will it still do the same stuff, hate having to keep tuning my fans everytime i turn my pc on lol


----------



## Mikecdm

Qu1ckset said:


> Everytime i turn on my computer my bios fan controller says something is new on the cpu fan header(my pwm hub) , if i put the hub on a different fan header will it still do the same stuff, hate having to keep tuning my fans everytime i turn my pc on lol


I was using the phanteks pwm hub in my old case. I have 6 gentle typhoons, non pwm. When I switched cases to the R6, I just went with what I knew that works and continued to use the phanteks pwm hub. With my asus x99A-II, it seems to be working with no issues. The fan utility thing in AIsuite picks them up and the profiles seem to be working ok. On silent it drops them to like 600rpm and full blast to 1800 or so. I never even bothered to use the pwm hub that came with the case.


----------



## kevindd992002

@KCDC

What happens if the Dow Corning Light grease gets mixed into the coolant (because they're in the O-rings) and flow through your loop? Isn't that unwanted?


----------



## Blze001

Take 3 for my custom loop, this time in a case actually kinda meant for watercooling. Hopefully this works, getting annoyed. XD

The SF450 in the background is my old PSU and what's running the pump for my leaktest, since I've wired the big guy up already.


----------



## Nick the Slick

Finally got my 8 pin pcie cable properly sleeved. If anyone needs new modular cables for a Seasonic psu I found this great website here. 

Before:









After:


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Radox-0 said:


> Finally got around to getting external kit sorted so moved to putting all the GPU's under water aswell. Annoyingly I had hopped to go parallel and put the CPU as the forth block off the 1080Ti's but seems flow was not too happy to split 4 ways, so was too low by the time it got to the GPU


Beautiful build....


----------



## DarthBaggins

Barefooter said:


> Yeah, you can't beat Snap-On/BluePoint tools. You have to pay up for them, but well worth it!


definitely agree on their premium pricing for their tools, but worth every penny (as are Matco Tools). Alot of my Snap-On & Matco Tools are left over from when I was an Automotive tech


----------



## kevindd992002

kevindd992002 said:


> @KCDC
> 
> What happens if the Dow Corning Light grease gets mixed into the coolant (because they're in the O-rings) and flow through your loop? Isn't that unwanted?


 @KCDC

Bro?


----------



## Blze001

Question: has anyone ever had a problem with the GPU power throttling when you put a waterblock on? My GTX1070 seems to be running at a slower speed (~1420 on the Heaven benchmark) than it should since I made the switch, and the guy who responded in the GTX1070 owner's club seems convinced it's because I'm trying to watercool and I should go back to air cooling.


----------



## jura11

Blze001 said:


> Question: has anyone ever had a problem with the GPU power throttling when you put a waterblock on? My GTX1070 seems to be running at a slower speed (~1420 on the Heaven benchmark) than it should since I made the switch, and the guy who responded in the GTX1070 owner's club seems convinced it's because I'm trying to watercool and I should go back to air cooling.


Hi there 

What temperatures are you getting on yours GPU and what waterblock are you using? 

If GPU is thermal throttling then I would say block is not seated properly, check as well VRM thermal pads and TIM printout if block does have good contact 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Streetdragon

Yeah had a problem like that with my 1080ti. uses to less paste between block and GPU. Used a bit more and tightend the screws a little bit more down solved the problem


----------



## MNMadman

Blze001 said:


> Question: has anyone ever had a problem with the GPU power throttling when you put a waterblock on? My GTX1070 seems to be running at a slower speed (~1420 on the Heaven benchmark) than it should since I made the switch, and the guy who responded in the GTX1070 owner's club seems convinced it's because I'm trying to watercool and I should go back to air cooling.


Liquid cooling should allow you to get closer to the power limit as it removes thermals as a throttling limit.

Have you adjusted the power limit with Afterburner/PrecisionX? I always set mine to 120% and it peaks around 110-115% during gaming.

Some GPUs work best if you under-volt them. That way they won't hit the power limit as fast, or you might be able to prevent them hitting the limit at all.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I believe there is a point where gpu can be too cold and must be juiced


----------



## MNMadman

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> What temperatures are you getting on yours GPU and what waterblock are you using?
> 
> If GPU is thermal throttling then I would say block is not seated properly, check as well VRM thermal pads and TIM printout if block does have good contact
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura





Streetdragon said:


> Yeah had a problem like that with my 1080ti. uses to less paste between block and GPU. Used a bit more and tightend the screws a little bit more down solved the problem


Guys, @Blze001 said *power* throttling, not thermal.


----------



## Blze001

Temps are good. The GPU temps top out at 56-57c, and it's running steady, not varying like it would if the Vram was getting toasty. The full loop and order (not that order matters) is a EK-XRES 100 D5 -> EK-FC1070 GTX -> Optimus V1 -> 2 EK slim 240mm rads. PSU is a Corsair RM650.

I maxed out the power and temp targets in Afterburner (although it only lets me go to 112%). I might try undervolting, since GPU-Z shows the limiting reason being Vrel. I'm also gonna boot up safemode and unleash DDU, it's been a bit since I let it do it's thing.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Probably the psu then RM series is not good AX or HX I believe are the better corsair series.
I sent back a RM850w it was so lightweight probably empty lol 

Corsair also pigtails power leads so petty get an evga P2 or G2 series is fine too.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Or just go straight to an OEM like Seasonic, have the 760XP2 in my rig and it does the job beautifully. Also have a CoolerMaster v850 which has been a rock solid PSU over the past few years


----------



## mouacyk

Blze001 said:


> Temps are good. The GPU temps top out at 56-57c, and it's running steady, not varying like it would if the Vram was getting toasty. The full loop and order (not that order matters) is a EK-XRES 100 D5 -> EK-FC1070 GTX -> Optimus V1 -> 2 EK slim 240mm rads. PSU is a Corsair RM650.
> 
> I maxed out the power and temp targets in Afterburner (although it only lets me go to 112%). I might try undervolting, since GPU-Z shows the limiting reason being Vrel. I'm also gonna boot up safemode and unleash DDU, it's been a bit since I let it do it's thing.


The GPU temp is a bit warm, if I may weigh in. I have the same res/pump with a thick 360mm black ice GTX and a standard 120mm radiator on my 1080 TI and it barely reaches 40C. That temp seems high for a full coverage water block. Even AIO can manage less than 50C.


----------



## SavantStrike

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Probably the psu then RM series is not good AX or HX I believe are the better corsair series.
> I sent back a RM850w it was so lightweight probably empty lol
> 
> Corsair also pigtails power leads so petty get an evga P2 or G2 series is fine too.


Looking at the pictures, that's an RM650X, and is a pretty decent CWT built unit. 

I bet you dollars to donuts I could show an RM750X feeding a pair of TxPs and a 1920X if I had the time to put the test together. The 650 is more than adequate for this task.


----------



## KCDC

kevindd992002 said:


> @*KCDC*
> 
> Bro?



Sorry, been offline for a while. I have had zero issues with the lube. You're using the tiniest amount on the o-rings, so it's not really going to do anything to your fluid. I'm even running Vue, which is super temperamental, and have had zero issues.


----------



## Streetdragon

Blze001 said:


> Temps are good. The GPU temps top out at 56-57c, and it's running steady, not varying like it would if the Vram was getting toasty. The full loop and order (not that order matters) is a EK-XRES 100 D5 -> EK-FC1070 GTX -> Optimus V1 -> 2 EK slim 240mm rads. PSU is a Corsair RM650.
> 
> I maxed out the power and temp targets in Afterburner (although it only lets me go to 112%). I might try undervolting, since GPU-Z shows the limiting reason being Vrel. I'm also gonna boot up safemode and unleash DDU, it's been a bit since I let it do it's thing.


Woop sry. read wrong^^
Temps are still to high for full block like already said. I heard that, if the vrm get to hot they can "power throttle" too.

If the power problem was not there while air cooling -> PSU OK!
I think you checked the power connection already?

Was the DDU/Fresh driver isntall working? If not, i would try a other PCI-E slot


----------



## Blze001

mouacyk said:


> The GPU temp is a bit warm, if I may weigh in. I have the same res/pump with a thick 360mm black ice GTX and a standard 120mm radiator on my 1080 TI and it barely reaches 40C. That temp seems high for a full coverage water block. Even AIO can manage less than 50C.


To be fair, the radiators are slim rads, the top one has slim 15mm thick fans, and the front has low-speed 1150rpm fans. I'm reusing parts from a failed attempt at watercooling a Hadron Air. 



Streetdragon said:


> Woop sry. read wrong^^
> Temps are still to high for full block like already said. I heard that, if the vrm get to hot they can "power throttle" too.
> 
> If the power problem was not there while air cooling -> PSU OK!
> I think you checked the power connection already?
> 
> Was the DDU/Fresh driver isntall working? If not, i would try a other PCI-E slot


The PSU is actually new, didn't think my SF450 was gonna be up to the task of these parts AND a full loop. I guess I could do a Frankenstein testing setup with the SF450 powering the GPU to test, because I know it works.

I'll finally have time to mess around with this tonight, the past two nights have been busy as hell. Also one thing I noticed is my in-game performance doesn't feel any different, so I might be chasing a ghost and it's just Heaven is faceplanting, so I'm gonna run Firestrike and look at those numbers before I take the loop apart or anything drastic like that.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Try different vga ports on the psu.


----------



## kevindd992002

KCDC said:


> Sorry, been offline for a while. I have had zero issues with the lube. You're using the tiniest amount on the o-rings, so it's not really going to do anything to your fluid. I'm even running Vue, which is super temperamental, and have had zero issues.


Gotcha.

Thanks!


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Got a new 360 rad on the way, as the outlet is bent throws off tube angle. My first attempt at hardline.


----------



## Blze001

Minor update, I ran the DDU update then did some 3DMark and the numbers I'm getting are about bog-average for systems with the same CPU and memory capacity. That got me thinking and I did some more digging, turns out I was comparing my score with an i5-4670k and 8GB of DDR3 with people running Ryzens/Coffee Lakes and 16GB+ of DDR4. There's a slight performance difference in benchmarks, funnily enough.


----------



## eucalyptus

Finally renovated and back up & running with orange dye this time with silver coil + biocide instead of ocean turquoise blue and coolant like last time.

Last time the water had insane problems with alge growth and some crazy stuff going on, so had to tear it apart last August, and now finally working again 🙂


----------



## MNMadman

eucalyptus said:


> Finally renovated and back up & running with orange dye this time with silver coil + biocide instead of ocean turquoise blue and coolant like last time.
> 
> Last time the water had insane problems with alge growth and some crazy stuff going on, so had to tear it apart last August, and now finally working again


That is a *very* nice V8 you've got there! What's the displacement? Is it boosted or naturally aspirated? Horsepower and torque numbers? What vehicle are you putting that baby in?


----------



## Nick the Slick

eucalyptus said:


> Finally renovated and back up & running with orange dye this time with silver coil + biocide instead of ocean turquoise blue and coolant like last time.
> 
> Last time the water had insane problems with alge growth and some crazy stuff going on, so had to tear it apart last August, and now finally working again 🙂


I don't think I've ever been more jealous of something in my life. Really wish I had thought of this lol. Very nice.


----------



## ugotd8

eucalyptus said:


> Finally renovated and back up & running with orange dye this time with silver coil + biocide instead of ocean turquoise blue and coolant like last time.
> 
> Last time the water had insane problems with alge growth and some crazy stuff going on, so had to tear it apart last August, and now finally working again 🙂


Looks like an old flathead with dual strombergs. Friggin awesome!


----------



## Bluebell

I spent a lot of time reading this and other threads for inspiration before attempting my first project. It is now complete and, while not perfect, I think I avoided most of the poo traps. Next time will be better.


----------



## Bluebell

I've now run a before and after comparison. It's not very scientific being simply the data logged by HWiNFO64 while playing one game of WoT. I'm happy with the temps but am a little confused as to why the power draw for the cpu and gpu are lower with water cooling despite the clock speeds being the same. Anyone able to educate me? The cpu vrm temperatures are also a little lower even though they are passive cooled but that may be due to better airflow in that area with the air cooler removed.


----------



## MNMadman

Bluebell said:


> I've now run a before and after comparison. It's not very scientific being simply the data logged by HWiNFO64 while playing one game of WoT. I'm happy with the temps but am a little confused as to why the power draw for the cpu and gpu are lower with water cooling despite the clock speeds being the same. Anyone able to educate me? The cpu vrm temperatures are also a little lower even though they are passive cooled but that may be due to better airflow in that area with the air cooler removed.


Different load. Unless you are running a benchmark that runs the same scene, you will never be able to replicate the same amount of load.

Also, circuits are more efficient when they are cooler.


----------



## SavantStrike

Bluebell said:


> I've now run a before and after comparison. It's not very scientific being simply the data logged by HWiNFO64 while playing one game of WoT. I'm happy with the temps but am a little confused as to why the power draw for the cpu and gpu are lower with water cooling despite the clock speeds being the same. Anyone able to educate me? The cpu vrm temperatures are also a little lower even though they are passive cooled but that may be due to better airflow in that area with the air cooler removed.


Heat increases the resistance of any electrical circuit. Reducing heat decreases resistance and thus reduces power consumption.


----------



## eucalyptus

MNMadman said:


> That is a *very* nice V8 you've got there! What's the displacement? Is it boosted or naturally aspirated? Horsepower and torque numbers? What vehicle are you putting that baby in?


Probably the one and only V8 in the world with the lowest amount of horsepower hahaha 😄 I max out 10W torque on each pump, low watts DDC pumps 😉 but all in all its drawing around 150-160W from the wall thanks to all the rainbow super power. 

Will use this sweety to fire up my PC, I think it will add an extra 10 fps in pubg for sure! 




Nick the Slick said:


> I don't think I've ever been more jealous of something in my life. Really wish I had thought of this lol. Very nice.


Hahah thanks for the compliment buddy 🙂 nothing to be jealous of! I bet a Mustang with a real V8 would be something to be jealous of haha 😉 Mmmmmmm Eleanor 😄 



ugotd8 said:


> Looks like an old flathead with dual strombergs. Friggin awesome!


It does actually 😄 cool! Should be added I am not an expert on engines or anything else for that matter 😛


----------



## SpikeV

. . . Ice Dragon (... the never ending project !!! :biggrinsm ) is now all fired up (but not fully assembled) and ready for the evolution of the cooling system - several iterations planned ...

but first - the starting place - AIO on the CPU -and- AIO on the GPU . . . intending to run a series of benchmarks in order to compare the impact of configuration changes

[basically -Parvum custom S2.5 / i7-7700K / EVGA 1080 Hybrid / mATX - Gigabyte GA-Z270 Gaming 5 / 16GB RAM / 250MB M.2 (plus - 1TB SSHD) / EVGA G2-650 . . . custom Fan curves set & driven from 4 different sets of MoB temp sensors (including the Hybrid Rad fan - driven from MoB - NOT GPU itself as stock)]

. . . so, starting at stock settings - then pushed a bit










. . . temp set up for testing










. . . CPU on 240 AIO - DeepCool Captain with Enermax Cluster fans
. . . GPU on 120 AIO - EVGA (Asetek) with Enermax Everest (Everest therm sensor has been jumped), and custom fan curve



























































































. . . so, now we can see what we get with stock v. 4.8GHz OC

. . . next step - push to 5.0GHz ... then the fun stuff ... insert the XSPC res and the Glass Dragon tubes :specool:












Cheers


----------



## khemist

240 added to the R6.


----------



## -MidnightMan-

*stock 3.2 to 4.2 GHz stable the AIO *

Enermax version of H60, fans replaced Corsair Orange system fans


----------



## nycgtr

Black everything. Minus the white lighting


----------



## jvillaveces

nycgtr said:


> Black everything. Minus the white lighting



I like it, great job! Lian Li V3100? How did you plumb the bottom rad?


----------



## nycgtr

jvillaveces said:


> I like it, great job! Lian Li V3100? How did you plumb the bottom rad?


The bottom rad is going from gpu then to the top rad. It is a v3000


----------



## Void-Ray

Hi, guys i need a little advice, between these fans which one you prefer for thick radiators?:
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-Color/Fan-Size/Package-Quantity/ml-pro-led-config/p/CO-9050042-WW
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-C...tity/hd-series-rgb-led-config/p/CO-9050066-WW
http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002731&o=1
i have corsair SP120 and i had them for a few years but due to some issues i have to change them, my radiators are XSPC RX 360 and XSPC AX 240, also if you have any other better suggestions i'm all ears, just the noise is also important as the air pressure i the more quiet the better thank you.


----------



## Nick the Slick

Decided to do an aesthetic overhaul. I always felt so constrained for space in my Enthoo Pro, so I finally decided to take advantage of it's ability to completely remove the 3.5"/5.25" bay assembly to really open it up. 

Picked up the Phanteks Glacier r220 res (this thing is really nice!) to replace my little EK X-Res 100 and fill up all that open space. Picked up the Cooler Master vertical GPU adapter kit which required me to "mod" the case a bit (had to cut out the slats for the PCIe slots) but it worked out nicely. Was going to get the one from Cable Mod but they want $20 in shipping alone bringing the total to almost $80, no thanks. Also picked up some light diffuser channels for my RGB strip which really helped tame the lighting and give a nice even glow. Also went ahead and bent my tubes this time instead of cheating with fittings lol. All of the runs probably need to be redone but I think they're pretty good for my first go. 

Overall very happy with how this turned out. I think up next is getting rid of the dragon on the GPU, painting that metal plate black and printing out some other design/logo in white vinyl to put on there. Not sure where else to go from there.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Void-Ray said:


> Hi, guys i need a little advice, between these fans which one you prefer for thick radiators?:
> https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-Color/Fan-Size/Package-Quantity/ml-pro-led-config/p/CO-9050042-WW
> https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-C...tity/hd-series-rgb-led-config/p/CO-9050066-WW
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002731&o=1
> i have corsair SP120 and i had them for a few years but due to some issues i have to change them, my radiators are XSPC RX 360 and XSPC AX 240, also if you have any other better suggestions i'm all ears, just the noise is also important as the air pressure i the more quiet the better thank you.


I'm running the twin-pack ML120's (non-led/pro blah blah blah) and love them, but I am only running a PE360 from EK for a rad - they push ample air through it at low rpms.

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-Color/Fan-Size/Package-Quantity/ml-config/p/CO-9050039-WW


----------



## RichKnecht

DarthBaggins said:


> I'm running the twin-pack ML120's (non-led/pro blah blah blah) and love them, but I am only running a PE360 from EK for a rad - they push ample air through it at low rpms.
> 
> https://www.corsair.com/us/en/LED-Color/Fan-Size/Package-Quantity/ml-config/p/CO-9050039-WW


I second the ML120s. I have 6 (3 twin packs) on an EK PE360 in push/pull and they do a great job with my OC'ed 7900X. Twin packs are $39 at my Microcenter, so that's ~$20 per fan. Great deal IMO.


----------



## khemist

Latest in the R6.


----------



## empyr




----------



## Fleacircus

http://www.overclock.net/forum/18083-build-logs/1700814-build-complete-fig-3-sma8a-rebuild.html


----------



## nycgtr

Fleacircus said:


> http://www.overclock.net/forum/18083-build-logs/1700814-build-complete-fig-3-sma8a-rebuild.html


Very clean. Think it would look better with some black on the other wires as well but it's your baby. Tbh i like the back more than the front. The back is very impressive.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

nycgtr said:


> Very clean. Think it would look better with some black on the other wires as well but it's your baby. Tbh i like the back more than the front. The back is very impressive.


I was thinking the same thing bro. 

TCO


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice that caselabs case looks as big as the window behind it


----------



## SpikeV

* . . . 5.0GHz on AIOs*

1st project milestone achieved ! ... and stable
[work in progress]






mATX







































:thumbsups


----------



## khemist

Had to get the lighting installed in the gpu block as it was bugging me, job for the day done.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

khemist said:


> Had to get the lighting installed in the gpu block as it was bugging me, job for the day done.


Really nice!


----------



## broodro0ster

Here is my new build


----------



## khemist

Very nice!.


----------



## Jyve

Yay for more zmt builds!


----------



## paskowitz

I have to say, EK ZMT and clear Cryofuel has served me surprisingly well (did Blitz Pt2 before filling). 8 months in and no noticeable build up or temp increases. I'll check things after 12 months, but it's been a muuuuuch better experience than Primochill Advanced LRT with liquid utopia and EK EKoolant after that.


----------



## Deeptek

+1 for soft tubing!


----------



## broodro0ster

Thanks guys! Delidded yesterday and I'm very happy with the results


----------



## Radox-0

PatrickCrowely said:


> Beautiful build....


Thank you very much  made a few changes since then, but happy with overall look


----------



## Tlow

I´ve read you guys like zmt tubing 
I just moved my System to the LianLi dynamic.


----------



## SpikeV

* . . . layin' some pipe on an AIO*


now that we've got the project running at 5.0GHz with no worries ... it's time to start messin' with it a bit

So, the first thing is to see how much fun we can have by inserting a Res and some hard tube.

In this case, we have to deal with fixed barb type fittings on the DeepCool AIO hardware - so we simply measure up the reach on the fixed barb length (18mm) and the new barb fitting (14mm) and give it about 3mm of play so we get a small bit of flex and avoid direct contact - then slice out the rest of the original soft tubing (12mm OD / 6mm ID) -and-replace with PETG 12mm / 10mm ... toss in the Res

this is where we started ...and prepped for the hard tube
















































































. . . ran the learning curve on tube bending (learned a lot & built a jig) ... running the leak test with distilled H2O (all good) ... will be draining and refilling with Acid Green UV ... may do some re-bending as soon as the new tubing order arrives - let's see


So a unique spin on an AIO migration. I don't know how long we will stay with that - before replacing with full copper Rad, pump and block (likely XSPC or HeatKiller) ... will run the Benchmarks for this new config to see what, if any, impact it has ... then, will be doing the same for the EVGA Hybrid (hopefully this weekend).


Cheers


----------



## Blze001

Finally got my Fractal Nano S to a mostly finalized state. Got the chance to rearrange the loop when I upgraded from my i5-4670k with 8GB to an i7-8700k with 32GB. Docker and Tomcat were not liking the old equipment much at all.

Old loop layout with the i5. I was still in the mindset I had when I was trying to fit everything into my Hardon Air, so I didn't make very good use of the space in front of the PSU. The biggest problem was this loop had no easy way to drain it.










When I redid the loop after installing the i7, I made use of that space in front of the PSU for a draining/filling port. Downside is I lost an intake fan and probably have some negative pressure going on, which is gonna be a problem when dust settles in. I might get higher-speed Vardars for the front to offset things a little, I'm using 1150rpm fans right now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not bad, I would've recommended using the Swiftech MicroRes and a DDC (allows for alot of room in the Nano S - great case to build in too btw), also swapping to a SFX PSU makes a bigger difference too. in all not bad :thumb:

when I had my Nano S w/ a 4790k & 390x


----------



## shamus20

*lian li*

thread wont let me upload a photo after updating my case. anyways i decided that it would be best to retire my old inwin 805 and move to the new lian li pc011 dynamic. while upgrading to a 360mm rad. i will try to get pictures up soon, i hope this works (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cFVBbjR1dnQ0Rml2eDNtRnBra3JvREQ1Uk5rV0VR)


----------



## Blze001

DarthBaggins said:


> Not bad, I would've recommended using the Swiftech MicroRes and a DDC (allows for alot of room in the Nano S - great case to build in too btw), also swapping to a SFX PSU makes a bigger difference too. in all not bad :thumb:


Yeah, I have a list of things I'd do differently from this build. It was my first foray and for some reason I never picked up on the slight size difference between DDC and D5 pumps. Also I got the PSU I did because I wasn't sure my old SF450 would be quite up to the task, I was already way overbudget, and MicroCenter had a sweet sale on the RM650. That being said, if I could do it over I'd have a DDC pump/res, SF600 psu, and higher speed fans (I have 1150rpm Vardars right now). Plus I might do a 280mm up front (they barely fit) and a 120mm on the back instead of the current slim 2x240mm.

That being said, the fact that I was able to squeeze those rads, a full-size ATX PSU, and a D5 pump/res into the case as a newbie without issue is a compliment to the case. Granted, I did have a loop sort of working inside a Hadron Air before this, so the Nano S was cavernous by comparison.

For those curious, the Hadron Air experiment was technically a success, but all of the cutting and trimming and recutting of metal had jacked the case up so much it really wasn't feasible for any long-term usage. I was using an Alphacool Eisstation D5 pump/res unit. Fans were Noctua 15mm fans on the bottom rad, and Scythe 12mm fans on the top rad. Slim airflow fans. So my temps were... well, lets just say I would've transplanted anyway even if the case wasn't falling apart at that point.


----------



## saint19

nycgtr said:


> Black everything. Minus the white lighting
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler




Those 2 little screens at the bottom of the case in the loop, do you have the link of those? Seems interesting...


----------



## Vow3ll

saint19 said:


> Those 2 little screens at the bottom of the case in the loop, do you have the link of those? Seems interesting...



http://www.barrowch.com/product/product-2-537.html

https://aquacomputer.de/aquaero-5.html


----------



## lklem

Hi guys, I bought an EK D5 PWM water pump from a friend, the sticker underneath of the pump shows the model no. is D5 PWM9-20/000-01 6085C2006, max power:20W, however when i checked through EKWB website the model for D5 PWM pump shows D5 PWM9-38/000-01 6085C2007, it is rated at 38watt. Do you guys have any clue what is the major different between these 2? The one i have is only rated at 20watt will it be any impact on the performance compared with the variant with 38watt ?

EK pump I have : D5 PWM9-20/000-01 6085C2006 Max power: 20W
EK pump shows in EK store: D5 PWM9-38/000-01 6085C2007 Max power: 30W


----------



## emsj86

Site won’t allow me to attach or upload any pictures. Anyone know he fix soon can post pictures here


----------



## DarthBaggins

Normally I host via IMGUR


----------



## iamjanco

lklem said:


> Hi guys, I bought an EK D5 PWM water pump from a friend, the sticker underneath of the pump shows the model no. is D5 PWM9-20/000-01 6085C2006, max power:20W, however when i checked through EKWB website the model for D5 PWM pump shows D5 PWM9-38/000-01 6085C2007, it is rated at 38watt. Do you guys have any clue what is the major different between these 2? The one i have is only rated at 20watt will it be any impact on the performance compared with the variant with 38watt ?
> 
> EK pump I have : D5 PWM9-20/000-01 6085C2006 Max power: 20W
> EK pump shows in EK store: D5 PWM9-38/000-01 6085C2007 Max power: 30W


I'd check with EK about the different specs, since EK is one the one who specified them. I suspect they're rounding the numbers (23, 37) down for their own ID purposes. In any event, I'm not so sure I'd be overly concerned myself; but like you, I would probably want to know the answer.

That said, I believe factory OEM Laing's D5 pump motors are all rated ~8-24 (or 25) VDC and are used in a variety of use cases beyond water cooling PCs, where other circuitry can be added by suppliers like EK, Watercool, Aquacomputer, etc. which will dictate how the basic motor reacts to different input voltages/controls (e.g., as in the vario vs. pwm, etc.), in-turn determining how fast the motor rotates and its efficiency. 

It's my guess that the 12-24 spec itself came into play because of the computer use case (at least in the case of computers, no pun intended), but I'll stand corrected if someone else can show me otherwise. Even Martin from the now defunct Martin's Liquid Lab seemed a bit stumped a bit by the voltage ratings at first, as his testing included testing running up through 24VDC, which indicated little to no performance improvement above 13.1 volts (he did note more heat being dumped as the voltage was increased though). The difference in power used (23 vs 37/38 watts, depending on where you look) likely accounts for those 12 vs 24 volt specs. 

There is also a special 24 VDC version of the Laing D5 (the D5 Strong) which can rotate faster than Laing's basic and vario versions, but user satisfaction has been mixed because of the increase in heat and noise that can come with its use.

Various spec sheets are available for the Laing's oem pumps in their different configurations, which can be found *here* (Laing is an Xylem brand).

Lastly, there are a few others on OCN who might be willing to share more about this, or at least help clear up the ambiguity by asking the engineers associated with their products: @VSG @Akira @Shoggy @Watercool-Jakob.


----------



## SpikeV

Quick question:

What is the EK-HD Adapter 10/12mm tube seating depth ?

... to my measurement it looks like 8mm, but I have seen an old posting @B NEGATIVE stating 9mm

Cheers


----------



## andydabeast

Scratch built case here. 

XSPC CPU block
EK full cover GTX 1080 block
EK pwm pump
EK reservoir
360mm radiator
EK fittings
EK cryofuel fluid


----------



## chibi

broodro0ster said:


> Here is my new build
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler




Mmm, that's a straight ZMT tube, love it! :specool:


----------



## shamus20

looks like uploading photos works again. this is my system in the new case. it runs so much cooler in vr, gone are the days of 82c on the cpu and 60 on gpu (currently 60 on cpu and 55 on gpu.)
this is my second semi custom watercooled loop, built from the EKWB a240g kit with the 360mm rad expansion.


----------



## emsj86

Pictures of the build. Hopefully the thumbnails work


----------



## surfinchina

I want some advice out of you guys 
I've got a great build (see pic). I had Primochill VUE in it for about 6 months and it started to clog, so I've cleaned it out. I got some orange pastel (Mayhems) but actually I'm quite liking the straight water and maybe I won't put the orange in.
The great thing about water is that it doesn't clog up the bits after 6 months...
I'm using ultra distilled water no additives and I'm not sure I'll even bother with adding anything...
So who here is using clear? What do you put in it if anything and does my rig look stupid with straight water in it??
I could modify the lighting to make it sparkly I guess...


----------



## MNMadman

surfinchina said:


> I want some advice out of you guys
> I've got a great build (see pic). I had Primochill VUE in it for about 6 months and it started to clog, so I've cleaned it out. I got some orange pastel (Mayhems) but actually I'm quite liking the straight water and maybe I won't put the orange in.
> The great thing about water is that it doesn't clog up the bits after 6 months...
> I'm using ultra distilled water no additives and I'm not sure I'll even bother with adding anything...
> So who here is using clear? What do you put in it if anything and does my rig look stupid with straight water in it??
> I could modify the lighting to make it sparkly I guess...


Looks good just the way it is. No sparkles necessary.

I wouldn't run just straight water though. I'd add one of the clear concentrates or use a clear premix. That's what I plan on doing with my next build.


----------



## ir88ed

surfinchina said:


> I want some advice out of you guys
> I've got a great build (see pic). I had Primochill VUE in it for about 6 months and it started to clog, so I've cleaned it out. I got some orange pastel (Mayhems) but actually I'm quite liking the straight water and maybe I won't put the orange in.
> The great thing about water is that it doesn't clog up the bits after 6 months...
> I'm using ultra distilled water no additives and I'm not sure I'll even bother with adding anything...
> So who here is using clear? What do you put in it if anything and does my rig look stupid with straight water in it??
> I could modify the lighting to make it sparkly I guess...


I used opaque PETG tubing and run straight distilled water. I dropped an old silver ring in the res to prevent anything from growing in the loop. Works great for years.
I tried some thermaltake white dye a while back. Gunked the system up in a few months and my pump died (coincidence?). It was a real pain to get that crap out of the system.


----------



## Renegade5399

ir88ed said:


> I used opaque PETG tubing and run straight distilled water. I dropped an old silver ring in the res to prevent anything from growing in the loop. Works great for years.
> I tried some thermaltake white dye a while back. Gunked the system up in a few months and my pump died (coincidence?). It was a real pain to get that crap out of the system.


Yup yup. If it ain't distilled with biocide/silver or Feser I don't use it. I am running the same Feser 1 blue from 2009. Still just as clear as the day I put it in.


----------



## shamus20

surfinchina said:


> I want some advice out of you guys
> I've got a great build (see pic). I had Primochill VUE in it for about 6 months and it started to clog, so I've cleaned it out. I got some orange pastel (Mayhems) but actually I'm quite liking the straight water and maybe I won't put the orange in.
> The great thing about water is that it doesn't clog up the bits after 6 months...
> I'm using ultra distilled water no additives and I'm not sure I'll even bother with adding anything...
> So who here is using clear? What do you put in it if anything and does my rig look stupid with straight water in it??
> I could modify the lighting to make it sparkly I guess...


for my loop, i bought the ek cryofuel. it works well, i just didnt want to fight with loop dis-colouration.


----------



## surfinchina

MNMadman said:


> Looks good just the way it is. No sparkles necessary.
> 
> I wouldn't run just straight water though. I'd add one of the clear concentrates or use a clear premix. That's what I plan on doing with my next build.





ir88ed said:


> I used opaque PETG tubing and run straight distilled water. I dropped an old silver ring in the res to prevent anything from growing in the loop. Works great for years.
> I tried some thermaltake white dye a while back. Gunked the system up in a few months and my pump died (coincidence?). It was a real pain to get that crap out of the system.





Renegade5399 said:


> Yup yup. If it ain't distilled with biocide/silver or Feser I don't use it. I am running the same Feser 1 blue from 2009. Still just as clear as the day I put it in.





shamus20 said:


> for my loop, i bought the ek cryofuel. it works well, i just didnt want to fight with loop dis-colouration.


Thanks guys! I'm happy to hear the opinions of such seasoned veterans 
In the end it's a working machine and should work properly - my temps are down 8 deg after removing the VUE. I've ordered some EK cryofuel clear concentrate after some thought about that.
Plus my wife said it looks good (happy wife happy life).


----------



## emsj86

I’ve used mayhem’s pastel many times and even run it now. Never clogged on me


----------



## Barefooter

emsj86 said:


> Pictures of the build. Hopefully the thumbnails work


You went back to blue? I thought you changed out the color awhile back. That blue looks fantastic.

The taller res looks better in there too :thumb:


----------



## Nighthog

Something of a complete mess but here you go. yeah the tubing is awful

Added the GPX cooler for the graphics with the smaller 120x45mm rads that I got for ~20$ a piece new/b-grade. 
Wasn't what I expected them to be, was thinking I would get regular full-copper versions but for the price it was too good to be true, it was a cheaper version with plastics, didn't match the description but I was expecting something to be amiss when you could get them for 1/3rd the price. Seems to be the versions you get with the GPX Pro kits.

I was short a little on the required amount off angled adapters I would have liked to use for a better results but had to make due with what I had lying around, just enough to be able to assemble it.


----------



## Streetdragon

Nighthog said:


> Something of a complete mess but here you go. yeah the tubing is awful
> 
> Added the GPX cooler for the graphics with the smaller 120x45mm rads that I got for ~20$ a piece new/b-grade.
> Wasn't what I expected them to be, was thinking I would get regular full-copper versions but for the price it was too good to be true, it was a cheaper version with plastics, didn't match the description but I was expecting something to be amiss when you could get them for 1/3rd the price. Seems to be the versions you get with the GPX Pro kits.
> 
> I was short a little on the required amount off angled adapters I would have liked to use for a better results but had to make due with what I had lying around, just enough to be able to assemble it.





Ahhh yeahhh dad tube^^ exchange it with some nice ZMT tube from EK! will look 100% better


----------



## Renegade5399

Nighthog said:


> Something of a complete mess but here you go. yeah the tubing is awful
> 
> Added the GPX cooler for the graphics with the smaller 120x45mm rads that I got for ~20$ a piece new/b-grade.
> Wasn't what I expected them to be, was thinking I would get regular full-copper versions but for the price it was too good to be true, it was a cheaper version with plastics, didn't match the description but I was expecting something to be amiss when you could get them for 1/3rd the price. Seems to be the versions you get with the GPX Pro kits.
> 
> I was short a little on the required amount off angled adapters I would have liked to use for a better results but had to make due with what I had lying around, just enough to be able to assemble it.


What coolant ya running there skippy? Alien snot?


----------



## Barefooter

Renegade5399 said:


> What coolant ya running there skippy? *Alien snot?*


:lachen:


----------



## Nighthog

Renegade5399 said:


> What coolant ya running there skippy? Alien snot?


haha, lol.

Yeah, regular "battery water", I don't really know but these tubes accumulate some kind of gunk on the insides with time. I've used varied time of used tubing. Didn't want to use new tube for now just reuse the alien snot as you so aptly noticed.


----------



## SpikeV

* . . . almost complete*

Parvum S2.5 mATX ICE Dragon project replacing flex tubing with PETG

... loops are made up of EK 12/10mm PETG - and - borosilicate 
Glass Dragon Tubes custom made by renowned Glass Artist
Garrett Brebes of PISMO BEACH, CA 

very close to finishing up the project which has been an awesome adventure and learning experience ... and thanks to the support of so many old and new friends ... it has been great fun !!! :biggrinsm:biggrinsm































. . . first time with hard tube and working in an mATX case was definitely a learning experience
a couple of lessons:
- working with thinner tubing (12/10mm) was a whole lot easier than larger tubing (16/13mm) ... it's a whole lot more forgiving - even when needing to reheat for those small tweeks
- for multiple close bends some success with cooling the first bend in ice water - then, try not to push the silicone insert back through the first bend while making the second bend - could have been a mental crutch - but seemed to help quite a bit
- using the combination of inscribing with a small pipe cutter ... followed by final cut-through with a tube cutter - gave the cleanest cuts (note - sometimes limited by the width of the pipe cutter as to how close to the bend ... or multi-bends ... you can get)
- making very short end cuts for final length adjustment - runs the risk of warping the roundness of the insert end - which, on a few occasions rendered the tube unusable


Cheers . . .


----------



## MocoIMO

Decided to make the switch to water again because my NCase was way too warm. Who knew all those excess cooling parts would be so useful?


----------



## Gilles3000

MocoIMO said:


> Decided to make the switch to water again because my NCase was way too warm. Who knew all those excess cooling parts would be so useful?


That's a pretty radical change, from one of the smallest watercoolable ITX cases, to one of the biggest.

Looks great tho. :thumb:


----------



## MocoIMO

Gilles3000 said:


> That's a pretty radical change, from one of the smallest watercoolable ITX cases, to one of the biggest.
> 
> Looks great tho. :thumb:


Thank you.

I liked that the NCase fit inside my entertainment center but it got way too hot with the summer weather + air cooling for 4k gaming. I'll just have to sit it along side my TV Stand now, hopefully with some LED's it'll be a interesting look


----------



## kevindd992002

@KCDC

So if you remember, I disassembled my loop to clean everything squeaky clean especially my nickel-plated EK GPU waterblock which has some brown discoloration on it (according to the EK thread is pretty common with EK nickel-plated blocks). And I also put DOW 33 on all my Barrow fitting o-rings before installing them back as per your recommendation. I got everything clean and assembled them back to the loop and left them there for maybe a month or so without any liquid (I was very busy). Now when I looked at the GPU waterblock again, I see the same issue:










So this is definitely not because of the liquid I use (Mayhems Pastel) because the discoloration came back without it even touching liquid. Plus now, for some reason, I have rust in the screws that bolt the acrylic cover to the waterblock itself as shown in the same pic above. How could that even happen? Those screws were not soaked in water or anything. 

Are all these issues with this block possible because of the hot tropical weather we have in our country? Or do I just need to accept that EK has crappy quality when it comes to nickel-plated blocks?


----------



## MrYakuZa

Some pics of my homework today!!!


















































































Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

kevindd992002 said:


> @KCDC
> 
> So if you remember, I disassembled my loop to clean everything squeaky clean especially my nickel-plated EK GPU waterblock which has some brown discoloration on it (according to the EK thread is pretty common with EK nickel-plated blocks). And I also put DOW 33 on all my Barrow fitting o-rings before installing them back as per your recommendation. I got everything clean and assembled them back to the loop and left them there for maybe a month or so without any liquid (I was very busy). Now when I looked at the GPU waterblock again, I see the same issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is definitely not because of the liquid I use (Mayhems Pastel) because the discoloration came back without it even touching liquid. Plus now, for some reason, I have rust in the screws that bolt the acrylic cover to the waterblock itself as shown in the same pic above. How could that even happen? Those screws were not soaked in water or anything.
> 
> Are all these issues with this block possible because of the hot tropical weather we have in our country? Or do I just need to accept that EK has crappy quality when it comes to nickel-plated blocks?


The discoloration is normal wear.

And quite possibly so are the screws unless you use silicon sealant between the top and the base. The reason for this is the bulk of the block remains exposed to the top without a seal so small amount of coolant flows through. Water takes the quickest path. So any screws in the chamber will be affected if they aren't completely sealed off from the coolant. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## kevindd992002

Ceadderman said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @KCDC
> 
> So if you remember, I disassembled my loop to clean everything squeaky clean especially my nickel-plated EK GPU waterblock which has some brown discoloration on it (according to the EK thread is pretty common with EK nickel-plated blocks). And I also put DOW 33 on all my Barrow fitting o-rings before installing them back as per your recommendation. I got everything clean and assembled them back to the loop and left them there for maybe a month or so without any liquid (I was very busy). Now when I looked at the GPU waterblock again, I see the same issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is definitely not because of the liquid I use (Mayhems Pastel) because the discoloration came back without it even touching liquid. Plus now, for some reason, I have rust in the screws that bolt the acrylic cover to the waterblock itself as shown in the same pic above. How could that even happen? Those screws were not soaked in water or anything.
> 
> Are all these issues with this block possible because of the hot tropical weather we have in our country? Or do I just need to accept that EK has crappy quality when it comes to nickel-plated blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> The discoloration is normal wear.
> 
> And quite possibly so are the screws unless you use silicon sealant between the top and the base. The reason for this is the bulk of the block remains exposed to the top without a seal so small amount of coolant flows through. Water takes the quickest path. So any screws in the chamber will be affected if they aren't completely sealed off from the coolant.
> 
> ~Ceadder /forum/images/smilies/smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Click to expand...

Like I said, there wasn't any liquid involved when all this happened. I cleaned everything squeaky clean, so no rust, no discoloration or anything. I left the block without liquid for about a month and I got all these?

Also, are you saying that the coolant is flowing through past the o-ring and into the screws? What's the use of the o-rings then? I don't understand.


----------



## Ceadderman

kevindd992002 said:


> Like I said, there wasn't any liquid involved when all this happened. I cleaned everything squeaky clean, so no rust, no discoloration or anything. I left the block without liquid for about a month and I got all these?
> 
> Also, are you saying that the coolant is flowing through past the o-ring and into the screws? What's the use of the o-rings then? I don't understand.


Okay got it. It's normal due to your climate. Hot humid climates encourage rust between metal to metal surfaces. One way of avoiding it is to use a product called never seize on the screws. It's a liquid metal that you lightly coat the threads of your screws with. It's primarily used on wheel studs of your car. Or maybe some blue type thread locker which you can use to insulate the threads away from metal to metal contact. 

Years ago I drained my loop and left for 2 years. When I came back to it I had similar issues. But thankfully not the screw surfaces rusting to my blocks due to them being copper blocks. But I did have a small bout of corrosion in a rotary male male fitting due to my system being stored in a hot room for two summers.

So again yes it's normal and no it's not specific to any one manufacturer product's plating. The male male fitting was an Enzotech product.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Gilles3000

Ceadderman said:


> One way of avoiding it is to use a product called never seize on the screws. It's a liquid metal that you lightly coat the threads of your screws with.


No offence, but just want to correct you on that one. Anti-seize compounds aren't liquid metal, they're just grease with lots of metal(usually copper or aluminium) powder. The additive isn't even always metal.


----------



## Ceadderman

Gilles3000 said:


> No offence, but just want to correct you on that one. Anti-seize compounds aren't liquid metal, they're just grease with lots of metal(usually copper or aluminium) powder. The additive isn't even always metal.


I agree with you. It is sometimes easier to relate it to people the if you simplify it. The point however remains the same. Hot humid climates have an abundance of water molecules in the air and the only way to combat rust is to coat the metal to metal contact points with a compound made specifically for that purpose. Stay far away from WD40 though. That stuff is flammable and not intended for electronic components of any sort. It will also do damage to acrylic components. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## kevindd992002

Ceadderman said:


> Okay got it. It's normal due to your climate. Hot humid climates encourage rust between metal to metal surfaces. One way of avoiding it is to use a product called never seize on the screws. It's a liquid metal that you lightly coat the threads of your screws with. It's primarily used on wheel studs of your car. Or maybe some blue type thread locker which you can use to insulate the threads away from metal to metal contact.
> 
> Years ago I drained my loop and left for 2 years. When I came back to it I had similar issues. But thankfully not the screw surfaces rusting to my blocks due to them being copper blocks. But I did have a small bout of corrosion in a rotary male male fitting due to my system being stored in a hot room for two summers.
> 
> So again yes it's normal and no it's not specific to any one manufacturer product's plating. The male male fitting was an Enzotech product.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I see. But the weird thing is that the screws got the rust only after I cleaned the whole block. So what I'm thinking is that when I installed the acrylic top back, the screw holes weren't probably dry yet (because I cleaned with distilled water) and this caused the rust. Is that possible?

If so, how do I get rid of the minor rust that I'm seeing now? I know they're not visible because the GPU is facing down but still my OCDC is kicking in, you know


----------



## toolmaker03

kevindd992002 said:


> I see. But the weird thing is that the screws got the rust only after I cleaned the whole block. So what I'm thinking is that when I installed the acrylic top back, the screw holes weren't probably dry yet (because I cleaned with distilled water) and this caused the rust. Is that possible?
> 
> If so, how do I get rid of the minor rust that I'm seeing now? I know they're not visible because the GPU is facing down but still my OCDC is kicking in, you know


well there are a couple of options, one is new screws, two is repainting the screws, or three coat the screws. @Ceadderman is right a little anti-seize on the screws would work great, and would make it easy to remove the screws later. clear RTV sealant would also work, if you don't like the look of gray anti-seize, but it would also be a little harder to remove the screws latter.


----------



## Jakerz

kevindd992002 said:


> I see. But the weird thing is that the screws got the rust only after I cleaned the whole block. So what I'm thinking is that when I installed the acrylic top back, the screw holes weren't probably dry yet (because I cleaned with distilled water) and this caused the rust. Is that possible?
> 
> If so, how do I get rid of the minor rust that I'm seeing now? I know they're not visible because the GPU is facing down but still my OCDC is kicking in, you know


Why not go with stainless hardware? Should be easy to order or find locally, they're just 4mm countersunk screws (I think they're 15mm long?)

Jake


----------



## Ceadderman

I would go with new screws but there is rust in the threads of the block too... trust me it's there... so that will need to be addressed too. Get the proper size tap bit and go over each one lightly to scrape it out before mating everything back together.

And yes if there was still distilled in the holes, that's how it became so prevalent so quickly, compounded by the humid climate. I wouldn't worry about scraping the nickel out of the threads since the substrate metal is copper. Going with stainless screws and also using a compound on the screws afterward should clear up your issues. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Blackops_2

So question regarding this setup. It's pretty much the only config i could come up with the DDC/EK-res combo as i couldn't do it vertically, as planned. I didn't grab a flow funnel for the EK multi-res top, like what's in my sig. Trying to bleed it can't seem to get the bubbles out of the ddc. Res is of course in an awkward position compared to a conventional setup. Can i just turn it on it's front and let it run and bleed itself? Or is the lack of funnel hurting me and i need to go get one and then shake it?

This is the layout i copied pretty much. Pics aren't turned the right way once uploaded. Regular config is the res mounted to the Black ice horizontally. I'm trying to bleed it with it up and the case turned on it's face.

https://imgur.com/gallery/loo8C

I put a 90 degree compression with a piece of tubing to elevate the bleeding port. I'm letting it run right now for leak testing but the DDC still makes some noise when starting up that i'm not too comfortable with, like there is a bubble i can't get out. My D5 doesn't sound anything like that. It gets super quiet once going but still.


----------



## Bluebell

Blackops_2 said:


> So question regarding this setup. It's pretty much the only config i could come up with the DDC/EK-res combo as i couldn't do it vertically, as planned. I didn't grab a flow funnel for the EK multi-res top, like what's in my sig. Trying to bleed it can't seem to get the bubbles out of the ddc. Res is of course in an awkward position compared to a conventional setup. Can i just turn it on it's front and let it run and bleed itself? Or is the lack of funnel hurting me and i need to go get one and then shake it?
> 
> This is the layout i copied pretty much. Pics aren't turned the right way once uploaded. Regular config is the res mounted to the Black ice horizontally. I'm trying to bleed it with it up and the case turned on it's face.
> 
> https://imgur.com/gallery/loo8C
> 
> I put a 90 degree compression with a piece of tubing to elevate the bleeding port. I'm letting it run right now for leak testing but the DDC still makes some noise when starting up that i'm not too comfortable with, like there is a bubble i can't get out. My D5 doesn't sound anything like that. It gets super quiet once going but still.



Mine is a similar cofiguration with a horizontal reservoir and lots of liquid to the left (ie above when the reservoir is vertical). Despite this, the loop will bleed with the case turned on its face and one of the top reservoir ports open.


I also found it easier to fill with the fill port at the highest point of the loop when the case was on its face.



Regards


Bluebell


----------



## Blackops_2

Bluebell said:


> Mine is a similar cofiguration with a horizontal reservoir and lots of liquid to the left (ie above when the reservoir is vertical). Despite this, the loop will bleed with the case turned on its face and one of the top reservoir ports open.
> 
> 
> I also found it easier to fill with the fill port at the highest point of the loop when the case was on its face.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Bluebell


I had it on it's face for a decent part of the night. I turned it and tilted it trying to bleed it i think i've got most out and some out of the pump. Though i leak tested all night after i went to bed in the horizontal config. The bubble in the res was bigger this morning so i assume some air bled from the pump. Should pass by the time i get off i assume. I'll cut it off and on and see how it sounds if there is still a bubble in the pump i'm going to go back to face up and try to bleed more.


----------



## nyk20z3

Finished the Phanteks Luxe build finally but i am already anticipating gutting it for the new Evolv X case -


----------



## Nighthog

I noticed I was getting hotter interior temperatures after my upgrade and remake of layout for my rad/rads and gpu block. (though cpu/gpu temps are fine)
It's causing issues with my memory OC now. They get way much hotter and aren't stable in the same way any more. Been troubleshooting for a while and finally could tell it was a heat issue.

Checking airflow I notice my bottom rad is restricting intake airflow considerably compared to when there was just fans at the bottom. I could feel the swoosh before but now I hardly notice the fans airflow trough the rad or intake at the bottom. The fans are barely pushing air trough the rad it feels like at max speeds. 
I seem to need to do push/pull on the bottom rad. Lucky me I ordered a extra set of fans to make that possible but just didn't use them in the initial rebuild. Though it's gonna be a hassle to try to fit them there now that the loop is built and running.

(1600rpm fans)


----------



## DarthBaggins

nyk20z3 said:


> Finished the Phanteks Luxe build finally but i am already anticipating gutting it for the new Evolv X case -
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/zU_C0-kkLN8


Space Ranger eh?! Lol. Only a parent would hear a kids show and recognize it it as background noise :thumb:


----------



## Blackops_2

Dunno if it's bled all the way i'll continue to bleed it over night on it's face but i'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I am having what seems to be a bit of a short or maybe a cable that's not plugged all the way in. Cutting on it cuts off and then back on and then off. Sort of like when the power and reset button are switched but i know that's not it. 7970 at 1200/1700 is still doing pretty damn well also.


----------



## kevindd992002

I know this has been asked several times already but what is the general consensus? I'd want to fill it to the brim after having it running for a few days to make sure all air bubbles are out. I'm assuming that when I fill it to the brim, I should do it when the system is turned off because that's where the water level on the reservoir is the highest, correct?


----------



## Nighthog

kevindd992002 said:


> I know this has been asked several times already but what is the general consensus? I'd want to fill it to the brim after having it running for a few days to make sure all air bubbles are out. I'm assuming that when I fill it to the brim, I should do it when the system is turned off because that's where the water level on the reservoir is the highest, correct?


Do however you want, I keep refilling mine computer running when I notice water levels are down in the reservoir, air pockets in the loop still it seems after my rebuild/upgrade. I fill mine up to the top so the acrylic is full of water, looks better that way.
I don't have too a large reservoir so I want to have it full otherwise I notice it might suck air bubbles at times trough the loop.


----------



## emsj86

kevindd992002 said:


> I know this has been asked several times already but what is the general consensus? I'd want to fill it to the brim after having it running for a few days to make sure all air bubbles are out. I'm assuming that when I fill it to the brim, I should do it when the system is turned off because that's where the water level on the reservoir is the highest, correct?


 I top the fluid off while running. I guess it really doesn’t matter whatever works for you. Like the build


----------



## MNMadman

Like @emsj86 I fill mine while it's running.


----------



## Vlada011

These watercooling topic is biggest chance someone to see... If you notice some extra-ultra-sick discount of Nemesis GTR 360 radiator you could post me in pp. In USA. In Europe I doubt I will found discounts.


----------



## Blackops_2

DDC always this loud? Made a video, does that sound normal to you all? I've bled it every way i know how.


----------



## Nighthog

Sounds like air bubbles or it either vibrating hard. Does the sound go away if you hold it or press it down to dampen vibrations?


----------



## Blackops_2

Nighthog said:


> Sounds like air bubbles or it either vibrating hard. Does the sound go away if you hold it or press it down to dampen vibrations?


Nope it doesn't I thought it was bubbles as well because my D5 i can barely hear. But hell idk what else to do i've bled it both on it's face to stand the reservoir up with an extended piece of tubing and on it's side as it sits. Did a 24hr leak test and 12 hour bleed afterwards. It only gets noticeable when the speed picks up during load.


----------



## Nighthog

Blackops_2 said:


> Nope it doesn't I thought it was bubbles as well because my D5 i can barely hear. But hell idk what else to do i've bled it both on it's face to stand the reservoir up with an extended piece of tubing and on it's side as it sits. Did a 24hr leak test and 12 hour bleed afterwards. It only gets noticeable when the speed picks up during load.


Well it should not be making that kind of noise. Only other thing I can think of it is faulty and/or hitting something inside the pump. Screwed it too tightly against the top? Dirt inside?


----------



## Blackops_2

Nighthog said:


> Well it should not be making that kind of noise. Only other thing I can think of it is faulty and/or hitting something inside the pump. Screwed it too tightly against the top? Dirt inside?


I didn't assemble it, it was an EK DDC/Res combo. Possibly though? I'm going to drain it again and refill on it's face to see if anything changes.


----------



## emsj86

So this may be a dumb question but I don’t know it for sure so here it goes. I’m going to drain my pastel. I want to run just distilled and pt nuke. My question is .... is that enough ? Do I need anything else. If not than I may just go buy some clear pre mix. The reason I didn’t buy pre mix yet is I have distilled and pt nuke on hand and figured I can fill up tonight rather than wait. Thanks


----------



## DarthBaggins

Distilled and PT Nuke is fine, I keep distilled and Biocide Extreme on hand just in case I dont have any other replacement fluid/coolant


----------



## emsj86

DarthBaggins said:


> Distilled and PT Nuke is fine, I keep distilled and Biocide Extreme on hand just in case I dont have any other replacement fluid/coolant


 thank you. Wasn’t sure if it would be a problem with corrosion or nickel. I think I was biocide extreme on hand as well and some primochill liquid utopia. But to be honest I don’t trust promochill with fluids. Always had a problem with them


----------



## Blackops_2

Drained it and filled again, still getting the same start up noise that sounds like there is a bubble in the pump. I've even breaking seals on fittings to squirt a little water out, i put a bleed valve on the inlet, i've got it so full now that there are no bubbles in the res. I've been shaking it to no avail.


----------



## emsj86

Not sure how long you ran it. But I’ve had bubbles take about a week before they would fully go away and than I would top off the reservoir. Other than let it run for a week you pretty much did everything else good luck with it hope it works out. On another note I did a window tempered glass mod on my caselabs sm8 case. Not sure if I like it or not yet.


----------



## Ceadderman

emsj86 said:


> Not sure how long you ran it. But I’ve had bubbles take about a week before they would fully go away and than I would top off the reservoir. Other than let it run for a week you pretty much did everything else good luck with it hope it works out. On another note I did a window tempered glass mod on my caselabs sm8 case. Not sure if I like it or not yet.


I love the mod. The lower GPU tube not so much. A 45° fitting might've been the way to go there. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## emsj86

I’m so so on the window mod. Felt like my
Lines on cutting could be better. I plan on switching to 16mm fittings and bending the tube with different runs. And possibly go uv
Ice blue. I feel 16mm will look better being the case is bigger. I also may mount the gpu vertically. Just looking to change things up without buying new hardware or a case.


----------



## SpikeV

. . . what happens when you get totally bored watchin' leak testing ? ... 


this happens ...


----------



## Qu1ckset

honestly my leak test never laster longer then 15mins lol


----------



## MNMadman

Qu1ckset said:


> honestly my leak test never laster longer then 15mins lol


Mine aren't quite that short. My very first one many years ago was the recommended 24 hours. Every one since then has been a couple of hours or less. The test for *Heatripper Threadkiller*'s loop was about an hour.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Updating my old rig:










Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Mat_UK

Nice bit of housekeeping there  I love the Rampage 3 Extreme it's a great board, solid as a rock and ran my Core i7 930 stable at 3.94Ghz for years. I had the same chipset block on mine too.


----------



## Mat_UK

Nice bit of housekeeping there  I love the Rampage 3 Extreme it's a great board, solid as a rock and ran my Core i7 930 stable at 3.94Ghz for years. I had the same EK chipset block on mine too.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Mat_UK said:


> Nice bit of housekeeping there  I love the Rampage 3 Extreme it's a great board, solid as a rock and ran my Core i7 930 stable at 3.94Ghz for years. I had the same EK chipset block on mine too.


Yes I agree with you! Rampage 3 Extreme is very solid. I got my i7 980X with 4.3Ghz, 4.6Ghz, 4.8Ghz very stable. The reason why I'll update my old rig is I'll need another kit of 12gb of ram, Corsair Dominator Gt ddr3 2000Mhz 9,10,9,27, because I'm getting short with only 12Gb. But is out of stock!
At the present I can play games in 1080p or 2k in Ultra on it.

Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## MrYakuZa

Family of HW BLACK ICE SR1 ( 480-360-240-120 )





Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## MrYakuZa

The Best Fan Ever!!!









Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Jyve

MrYakuZa said:


> The Best Fan Ever!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


I would argue, as good as the ap15 is, the ap45 is better, and arguably the best radiator fan out there. 4 pin pwm @ 2150rpm.


----------



## Zammin

My first time working with rigid tubing and only my second watercooling build overall. Not quite as good looking as some of the other builds in this thread but I hope you guys like it. Working in the Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic case was interesting. You can pack quite a lot into a fairly small space thanks to the dual chamber design.


----------



## Questors

MrYakuZa said:


> The Best Fan Ever!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk





Jyve said:


> I would argue, as good as the ap15 is, the ap45 is better, and arguably the best radiator fan out there. 4 pin pwm @ 2150rpm.


This comparison is like saying water is more wet than water.  These fans are great period. 

Gentlemen, let's not argue the perfection of same line of fans and let's agree water is just as wet as water. :thumb:


----------



## MrYakuZa

Hw Black Ice Sr1 240 + Cold Zero Custom Grid + Ekwb 250 Advanced Res + Bitspower Fittings!!!









Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## CptSpig

Zammin said:


> My first time working with rigid tubing and only my second watercooling build overall. Not quite as good looking as some of the other builds in this thread but I hope you guys like it. Working in the Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic case was interesting. You can pack quite a lot into a fairly small space thanks to the dual chamber design.


Does not look crowded and it's very clean. Nice job!


----------



## Zammin

CptSpig said:


> Does not look crowded and it's very clean. Nice job!


Thank you!


----------



## Vlada011

I notice something, no one from manufacturers of D5 pump didn't tried to cover little body of pump to give more classic nice look.
Off course except of Bitspower and Barrow kit who fit only on some tops.
Only EKWB D5 Revo is hidden and that's nice.
Many pump/res combo everything is shine only you see naked body of D5 with some label, sticker, or "dirty" look.
XSPC X4 pump is little better cosmetic, but I think it's time to manufacturers hide D5 Vario body completely.
Alphacool VPP755 is only D5 will little newer look. Than I heared people prefer VPP655 because some problems... 

On mine is not problem, antivibration mechanism hide everything, but there is a nice tops, nices combos with D5 naked peace on the end.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Leak Test on my Silvestone Tj11 last Build!






Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Qu1ckset

Well I ended up selling my GTX980 Classy and upgrading to GTX1080Ti 

Before:



















After:


----------



## Vlada011

Zammin said:


> My first time working with rigid tubing and only my second watercooling build overall. Not quite as good looking as some of the other builds in this thread but I hope you guys like it. Working in the Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic case was interesting. You can pack quite a lot into a fairly small space thanks to the dual chamber design.



How you turned GPU in vertical position?
That's natural for Dynamic case or you modifed something?


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> How you turned GPU in vertical position?
> That's natural for Dynamic case or you modifed something?


I used the cooler master vertical GPU kit because the Lian Li one (specifically for this case) wasn't available yet. The cooler master one mounts it a little higher which gives me space underneath to squeeze in some slim fans which is a bonus I guess.


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> I notice something, no one from manufacturers of D5 pump didn't tried to cover little body of pump to give more classic nice look.
> Off course except of Bitspower and Barrow kit who fit only on some tops.
> Only EKWB D5 Revo is hidden and that's nice.
> Many pump/res combo everything is shine only you see naked body of D5 with some label, sticker, or "dirty" look.
> XSPC X4 pump is little better cosmetic, but I think it's time to manufacturers hide D5 Vario body completely.
> Alphacool VPP755 is only D5 will little newer look. Than I heared people prefer VPP655 because some problems...
> 
> On mine is not problem, antivibration mechanism hide everything, but there is a nice tops, nices combos with D5 naked peace on the end.


Don't forget that Monsoon makes covers for the D5 too. And that original usage intent was for aquarium and pond usage where they were out of site in a cabinet of some sort and people could care less what they look like tucked away under a cover with the other plumbing fixtures. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Questors

Warning! The following picture exposes a leak, contains explicit material and may be offensive to some people! This dirty leak picture should only be viewed by mature audiences!

I saw a rise in temps a day or so prior to taking down my rig for a planned maintenance shut down. Rather than take it apart right away, I drained it and started an air test. 

Three leaking Bitspower rotaries later, the culprits have been identified. None of the XSPC rotaries have leaked. I used mixed parts in out-of-sight areas. The example in the pic are all Bitspower fittings. 

The angled EK ZMT tube is a "flexible coupling" of sorts between the fittings and a crooked port on the EK XTX 480. There is no stress on the rotary seen blowing bubbles. The other Bitspower rotaries that leaked are both 90° angles. One is a single rotary 90 and one is a dual rotary 90. Using all XSPC rotaries this go-round to see what happens.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Here is my current setup with dual loop WC.
i7 8700k +Alphacool Block + D5 VPP 755pump +Alphacool 420 rad /3xBQ SW3 highspeed fan

MSI 1080TI +Rajiintek Samos FC block +VPP 755pump +Alphacool 420rad /3xBQ SW3 highspeed fan

Case is Thermaltake Tower 900


----------



## BigBoost

Just finished my new build!


----------



## BigBoost

Just wrapped this thing up. Am I cool enough to join the WC Club?


----------



## broodro0ster

BigBoost said:


> Just wrapped this thing up. Am I cool enough to join the WC Club?


Nice build dude! It looks awesome!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

That is not a small amount of work... I'm in awe of some of those connections!


----------



## Mat_UK

BigBoost said:


> Just wrapped this thing up. Am I cool enough to join the WC Club?


Gets my vote! Very nice clean industrial look to it


----------



## Hello Man

Allright, I think she's done! Looks ok I guess


----------



## MrYakuZa

My Turn, Tj11!!!



























































































Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## SpikeV




----------



## kevindd992002

So I just finished refilling my system with the same Mayhems Pastel coolant and before I did that I made sure to clean everything with Mayhems Blitz Part 2 and flushed with distilled water 4 times afterwards. I have an issue with my Aquacomputer reservoir as shown in this pic:










You see how there seems to be a line that is vacant of the coolant? I just don't understand how this would happen. The reservoir is glass and is very clean before I filled the system with the coolant. Any thoughts?


----------



## R99photography

MrYakuZa said:


> The Best Fan Ever!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


Sure indeed, but unfortunately they look like scarce enough, at least here in Italy. Infact, I had to buy the Noctua iPPC 2000rpm PWM (120).


----------



## emsj86

What happened here. This page use to be a daily visit. Now I can go days without checking in only to miss out on a post or two. It’s a shame. Ever since the new updated page hit


----------



## R99photography

Hello folks,
Just built my first water cooling loop, it is really simple:

- EK XRES 140 Revo D5
- EK XE 360
- Heatkiller IV PRO full copper
- 3x Noctua 2000rpm iPPC 120 mm

The cooling system is currently for an i7-2700K rig (I will probably upgrade when the coffee lake refresh is out) overclocked at 4.7Ghz (Vcore 1,328 under load)

What do you think about my temps (Linx stress test v0.6.9), here below they are at the start/end of test in degrees Celsius:

TAmb: from 26.8 to 27.4
Coolant: from 31.6 to 32.6
CPU max: 60/69/69/66

Thank you, bye.


Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## dwolvin

I'm no expert, but those seem good enough for a stress test, make sure you have some airflow on the power circuits around the CPU area.

Welcome to watercooling!


----------



## emsj86

Such a shame no one could have kept it going. Feel there is more to the story but sad I never got the s8 I wanted. My sm8 with the tempered glass window mod


----------



## DarthBaggins

Guess I'll have to resurrect my M8 from storage, I do wish that I had ordered a BH8 when I had a chance


----------



## Questors

emsj86 said:


> What happened here. This page use to be a daily visit. Now I can go days without checking in only to miss out on a post or two. It’s a shame. Ever since the new updated page hit


Probably the combination of a few things. I don't come here as often because the site hasn't worked correctly for me since the change. I have tried the fixes, followed the "official" advice, read the help stickies and tried the suggestions at the top of the page. It just isn't the same old site. 

It's summer. I have yet to see very many online things that don't take a dip in the summer. Social media pages, games, online communities, you name it. They all tend to slow down as people vacation and take advantage of summer.



Questors said:


> Warning! The following picture exposes a leak, contains explicit material and may be offensive to some people! This dirty leak picture should only be viewed by mature audiences!
> 
> I saw a rise in temps a day or so prior to taking down my rig for a planned maintenance shut down. Rather than take it apart right away, I drained it and started an air test.
> 
> Three leaking Bitspower rotaries later, the culprits have been identified. None of the XSPC rotaries have leaked. I used mixed parts in out-of-sight areas. The example in the pic are all Bitspower fittings.
> 
> The angled EK ZMT tube is a "flexible coupling" of sorts between the fittings and a crooked port on the EK XTX 480. There is no stress on the rotary seen blowing bubbles. The other Bitspower rotaries that leaked are both 90° angles. One is a single rotary 90 and one is a dual rotary 90. Using all XSPC rotaries this go-round to see what happens.


I don't normally quote myself, but after 9 days of changing out fittings and leak testing, I am now up to 9 XSPC Ver 1 90° rotaries that failed the air pressure leak test to go with the aforementioned Bitspower leakers. :thumbsdow I won't be using XSPC afterall. This is incredibly disappointing. :thumbsdow I have used many XSPC fittings, including rotaries over the last 6-ish years hobby building water cooled rigs. I have not had a problem. The fittings and finishes have held up just fine, until these angle rotaries. I bought these fittings a couple years back as extras for possible projects. 

I will contact them and see if they will allow me to return them for credit, but after this amount of time, I am not holding my breath for hope.:worriedsm


----------



## VeritronX

Scorptec here in Australia had a bunch of caselabs cases still in stock, even the s8 and nova x2m last I looked. If you know someone in Aus you trust getting one is still possible.


----------



## VeritronX

Scorptec here in Australia had a bunch of caselabs cases still in stock, even the s8 and nova x2m last I looked. If you know someone in Aus you trust getting one is still possible.


----------



## VeritronX

Scorptech here in Aus srill had a lot of caselabs stuff in stock, even s8 and nova x2m last I looked.. If you kmow someone here you trust then getting one is still possible.


----------



## taowulf

I hear that Scorptech in Aus still has some Caselabs cases.


----------



## rolldog

I’m rebuilding my system with a new MB & CPU, and I’ve been considering using different tubing this time. In my last build, I used borosilicate glass tubing, which turned out great but was a PIA. Has anyone used Alphacool’s Eisrohr acrylic tubing? I’ve used just about every type of tubing in different builds, but this tubing caught my eye. Instead of transparent acrylic tubing, this tubing has a frosted look to it, which would help diffuse the light better, especially if I used Alphacool’s Aurora Hardtube LED ring on each end of the tubing, which hopefully would light up the entire tube instead of just a little bit at each end.

If anyone has ever used the Alphacool Eisrohr tubing in a build, I’d love to get your opinion on how well it worked to diffuse light. I would rather not spend all my time and money building a system with this tubing only to find out it still only lights up the very end of the tubing, about 5mm from the LED on each end, instead of lighting up the entire tube. Thanks!


----------



## GeorgeTD

Here are my two machines - my main rig which I built a while ago, and my HTPC which I completed upgrading to a full custom loop just the other day - I think you can guess which one is which.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice, hope to do a build once I get back to Atlanta for the rest of the year (need to finish something in time for DH:Atlanta)


----------



## VeritronX

taowulf said:


> I hear that Scorptech in Aus still has some Caselabs cases.


Yeah the aite went wierd then, the submit buttons did nothing and reloading the page fresh showed no new posts so I tried a few times and then gave up. Even now things seem broken a bit.


----------



## FIDDY57

Thought I would throw my rig up. Still needs cable management 
7900x evga1080ti ftw3's 64gb trident z rgb 3200. Phanteks enthoo elite case.


----------



## FIDDY57

BigBoost said:


> Just wrapped this thing up. Am I cool enough to join the WC Club?





broodro0ster said:


> BigBoost said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just wrapped this thing up. Am I cool enough to join the WC Club?
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build dude! It looks awesome!
Click to expand...

Looks great. Very clean.


----------



## Ceadderman

FIDDY57 said:


> Thought I would throw my rig up. Still needs cable management
> 7900x evga1080ti ftw3's 64gb trident z rgb 3200. Phanteks enthoo elite case.


Very nice. :cheers:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Finally topped up!


----------



## HITTI

Here is mayhems x1 yellow green with two drops of mayhems blue dye.


----------



## broodro0ster

broodro0ster said:


> Here is my new build


Small update of my rig. I added a bigger reservoir, a Corsair RM850x and some matching cables.
(Picture quality isn't the best, but you get the idea)


----------



## MightEMatt

Seeing that almost makes me wish I went with slim radiators, makes for much nicer runs going into the top of that front rad. And that rad-rad connection is _taut_.


----------



## Zammin

broodro0ster said:


> Small update of my rig. I added a bigger reservoir, a Corsair RM850x and some matching cables.
> (Picture quality isn't the best, but you get the idea)


Love the stealthy look of the black tubing. looks great.


----------



## Mat_UK

broodro0ster said:


> Small update of my rig. I added a bigger reservoir, a Corsair RM850x and some matching cables.


Yeah it looks great, I think the bigger res was a good call, it balances out the look of the build. Nice :thumb:


----------



## cyphon

Been a while since I did a build. I’m looking at the new threadripper 2 series and the Msi MEG x399 refresh mono. I’ll be looking to cool the cpu and maybe a gpu too. I need recommendations on a case that can accommodate this, but isn’t massive. Any suggestions are appreciated.


----------



## HITTI

I could not imagine with the pro hard lines run setups, trying to drain, purge air out of etc. I have a simple setup and I gotta tip, tilt shake the crap out of my pc to get air out of the rad.


----------



## HITTI

I could not imagine with the pro hard lines run setups, trying to drain, purge air out of etc. I have a simple setup and I gotta tip, tilt shake the crap out of my pc to get air out of the rad.


----------



## broodro0ster

MightEMatt said:


> Seeing that almost makes me wish I went with slim radiators, makes for much nicer runs going into the top of that front rad. And that rad-rad connection is _taut_.


Yea, I was doubting between a GTS or GTX for the front rad. I wanted the GTX, but was scared it wasn't going to fit to made the safe choice. Now I'm happy how it turned out 



Zammin said:


> Love the stealthy look of the black tubing. looks great.


Thanks!


Mat_UK said:


> Yeah it looks great, I think the bigger res was a good call, it balances out the look of the build. Nice :thumb:


Thanks! Yes, it was a bit empty in the front in the beginning.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah the EK ZMT always turns out nice when run properly :thumb: (one of my favorite tubings to work with)


----------



## lolekung00

My mid tower build :^
Gonna change the fans to noctua and silent wing soon
Future plan : Making new PSU shroud with some screen that monitors temp+clock


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Questors

Is there an emoticon/emoji for pulling out your hair? 

Sweet mother of.... These are pics of the fittings either originally used in my rig that were found to have been leaking (using air to leak test) or found to be leaking when used to replace fittings that were leaking in the first place. There are three more Bitspower fittings that I already tossed in disgust not in the picture. Currently there is still very pesky small leak and I can't find it to for love or money. I am talking a drop of 1 psi every three-ish days. 

Radiators were tested individually. All good. Every o-ring has been replaced. Honestly, every single one. I removed a water block to simplify the loop. I have removed half a dozen fittings to reduce the chances of another leaky fitting. Air tested pumps and reservoir separately, all good. 

Anyway, this many fittings producing bubbles around the rotaries across two different brands is disheartening. This hobby is fun mostly, but this situation has become a butt pain. 

I guess it's time to buy more tube and bend, bend, bend my way to a leak free rig. If that doesn't get me where I need to be, it's looking like a big sell off.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Always have to be careful with those "snake" fittings, highly prone to leaking. But to your psi drop I would inspect your reservoir top or even pump, but really that's not a bad reading as it could be the pressure tester causing that over time


----------



## TeslaHUN

Currently i have dual loop system
1 D5 pump /res combo >CPU > Rad 
2 D5 pump /res combo >VGA > Rad

After 2 pump failure ,im gonna redo the system in single loop and 2x D5 in series . So even if one pump fails , i wont worry about overheating .
Will this work ?
1st D5 pump /res > CPU > VGA > 2nd D5 pump /res > Rad1 > Rad2 > back to 1st res . This would be the best tubing route in my case .
How the water level on 2nd res will be compared to 1st ?
1st pump is running at 3/5 speed , but the 2nd pump is only at 1/5 (noisy after 1+ speed after 2week.... ) Is it problem in serial setup if the pumps are running at different speeds ?
Thanks


----------



## Abaidor

DarthBaggins said:


> Always have to be careful with those "snake" fittings, highly prone to leaking. But to your psi drop I would inspect your reservoir top or even pump, but really that's not a bad reading as it could be the pressure tester causing that over time


I have a rather complex route from my res to my pump with snake bitspower fittings & a drain valve and for all I know is that you have to be careful when first installing them not to damage the o-rings. I always wet them and the start turning to reduce stress.


----------



## toolmaker03

TeslaHUN said:


> Currently i have dual loop system
> 1 D5 pump /res combo >CPU > Rad
> 2 D5 pump /res combo >VGA > Rad
> 
> After 2 pump failure ,im gonna redo the system in single loop and 2x D5 in series . So even if one pump fails , i wont worry about overheating .
> Will this work ?
> 1st D5 pump /res > CPU > VGA > 2nd D5 pump /res > Rad1 > Rad2 > back to 1st res . This would be the best tubing route in my case .
> How the water level on 2nd res will be compared to 1st ?
> 1st pump is running at 3/5 speed , but the 2nd pump is only at 1/5 (noisy after 1+ speed after 2week.... ) Is it problem in serial setup if the pumps are running at different speeds ?
> Thanks




https://imgur.com/a/CfmikqO









have you ever considered a loop design like this for that water loop?

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1573189-serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm.html

I have tested it, and this is the general loop design I use on all of my water loops today. 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1615072-cpu-radiator-upgrade-water-cooled-rig.html

no, D5 pumps in series, will only add to each other, even if one of the pumps stop completely, it will not add any more restriction to the water loop, than what a 90 degree fitting would.


----------



## Rayce185

Hey guys!

I just bought the EK-XTOP Dual D5 Serial PWM and want to install it into the Core P5, noticing that it wont fit mounted horizontally.

It says that you're not supposed to mount the Pumps vertically. Is this an absolute no-go? Ir would it be possible if I mount it with the inlet pump positioned at the bottom pumping upwards to the second pump?


----------



## taowulf

Rayce185 said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> I just bought the EK-XTOP Dual D5 Serial PWM and want to install it into the Core P5, noticing that it wont fit mounted horizontally.
> 
> It says that you're not supposed to mount the Pumps vertically. Is this an absolute no-go? Ir would it be possible if I mount it with the inlet pump positioned at the bottom pumping upwards to the second pump?


Do not mount any pump with the impeller pointing downwards. basic rule of thumb. either sideways or pointing up only.


----------



## Ceadderman

taowulf said:


> Do not mount any pump with the impeller pointing downwards. basic rule of thumb. either sideways or pointing up only.


This! :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Abaidor

Mount it at the back horizontally if there is no way to fit it, but not vertically. This pump is big (I have it) but if you place it at the back it will fit. Unless you wean to wall mount the case.


----------



## Streetdragon

Some new pics after cleaning my loop and thrown away the corsair SP120 and put my beloved Scythe Grand Flex PWM in. Best fans^^

2x 240mmx30mm
2x 480mmx60mm


----------



## outofmyheadyo

sorry wrong thread


----------



## emsj86

anyone use the barrow push in fittings. Would it be a problem to do a whole loop with push in fittings?


----------



## rolldog

Questors said:


> Is there an emoticon/emoji for pulling out your hair?
> 
> Sweet mother of.... These are pics of the fittings either originally used in my rig that were found to have been leaking (using air to leak test) or found to be leaking when used to replace fittings that were leaking in the first place. There are three more Bitspower fittings that I already tossed in disgust not in the picture. Currently there is still very pesky small leak and I can't find it to for love or money. I am talking a drop of 1 psi every three-ish days.
> 
> Radiators were tested individually. All good. Every o-ring has been replaced. Honestly, every single one. I removed a water block to simplify the loop. I have removed half a dozen fittings to reduce the chances of another leaky fitting. Air tested pumps and reservoir separately, all good.
> 
> Anyway, this many fittings producing bubbles around the rotaries across two different brands is disheartening. This hobby is fun mostly, but this situation has become a butt pain.
> 
> I guess it's time to buy more tube and bend, bend, bend my way to a leak free rig. If that doesn't get me where I need to be, it's looking like a big sell off.


I used the same exact fittings in my last build, and I had the same exact problem! What was very odd were the Bitspower Silver Dual and Triple rotary fittings, and once I started filling my reservoir, I watched them closely since I couldn’t believe they were leaking from the sides. At first, it looked like condensation, like I kept the fittings in the refrigerator and then filled my loop with cold water outside in 100 degree weather. I’m not exactly sure how this was happening since my coolant and my fittings were the same temperature as the room I was in, but I swapped them with Alphacool’s fittings and had no problem.


----------



## Ceadderman

rolldog said:


> I used the same exact fittings in my last build, and I had the same exact problem! What was very odd were the Bitspower Silver Dual and Triple rotary fittings, and once I started filling my reservoir, I watched them closely since I couldn’t believe they were leaking from the sides. At first, it looked like condensation, like I kept the fittings in the refrigerator and then filled my loop with cold water outside in 100 degree weather. I’m not exactly sure how this was happening since my coolant and my fittings were the same temperature as the room I was in, but I swapped them with Alphacool’s fittings and had no problem.


Query: How did you fellas adjust the fittings before use? Did you twist them after having dunked them previously in distilled water? Or did you twist them while dry?

I've never had a single issue with my BP rotary fittings. But I dunk mine in distilled prior to use and setting the angles. This works too for shutoff valves prior to closing them and twisting the knob.

I don't know if this is your issues but it certainly helped me avoid problems with mine. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## tomsonx1983

*Project finished*


----------



## Ceadderman

I love everything about that build except the location of the shutoff valve. But I only half like that since I assume you can put the case on its back to drain it completely.

Great job with that Silverstone build. :cheers:

Just starting putting my build back together. Figured my SSD mounts out and since my case won't see an EATX board(this 932 case anyway) I drilled out the EATX standoff points and mounted my x3 RGB 250 Res to the upper 2 points. Going to bottom mount my storage drive to the inside of the case at the bottom of the tray similar to what I did with my OS and Steam drives. The x3 is a place holder until tax time when I get my MMRS that I want. 

Cannot wait to get this all sorted and back together. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Blze001

Ceadderman said:


> How did you fellas adjust the fittings before use? Did you twist them after having dunked them previously in distilled water? Or did you twist them while dry?


Are you supposed to dunk them? Is this for hardline or softline? I've done all of my soft-tube fittings dry and haven't had a problem. Luckily both of my multi-rotation fittings are in a spot where leaks won't drip onto anything.


----------



## kevindd992002

My first watercooled build (pardon for the quality of the pictures, I'm not a good photographer):


----------



## MNMadman

kevindd992002 said:


> My first watercooled build (pardon for the quality of the pictures, I'm not a good photographer):


Nice build. Weird seeing that one tube with no coolant. Fill port, I assume?


----------



## ThrashZone

MNMadman said:


> Nice build. Weird seeing that one tube with no coolant. Fill port, I assume?


Hi,
Yeah I have mine the same way fill port plus I use mine as a pressure release valve too 
The on and off really does produce pressure in the reservoir easy to see when the water level drops and rises when off.


----------



## kevindd992002

MNMadman said:


> Nice build. Weird seeing that one tube with no coolant. Fill port, I assume?


Thanks! Correct, that is a fill port.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I have mine the same way fill port plus I use mine as a pressure release valve too
> The on and off really does produce pressure in the reservoir easy to see when the water level drops and rises when off.


I have mine setup the same way too. I use a pressure-release valve fitting there to keep the pressure equalized with the outside pressure everytime. I was surprised earlier how the liquid level filled a portion of that empty fill port tube after I was done with a GPU stress test. That just proves how temps affect pressure.


----------



## Ceadderman

Blze001 said:


> Are you supposed to dunk them? Is this for hardline or softline? I've done all of my soft-tube fittings dry and haven't had a problem. Luckily both of my multi-rotation fittings are in a spot where leaks won't drip onto anything.


Rotary fittings do better when you dunk them. No matter the brand or type. It lubricates the seals. Dry twisting them could lead to problems later.

So I will always recommend giving them a short bath in distilled prior to manipulating them for installation. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Yukss

thermaltake core p90


----------



## khemist

Down to a single rad in my r6.


----------



## Barefooter

Ceadderman said:


> Rotary fittings do better when you dunk them. No matter the brand or type. It lubricates the seals. Dry twisting them could lead to problems later.
> 
> So I will always recommend giving them a short bath in distilled prior to manipulating them for installation. :thumb:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I let my fittings soak too, then turn the rotary portions half a dozen times or so, and then soak them in the water again.

This also makes tightening the fittings easier too :thumb:


----------



## hrockh

Nice builds!

Will this water block (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-nickel-short-top) be compatible with this 1080 TI (https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/zotac-geforce-gtx-1080-ti)?

The Zotac is a reference design, so it should be. Just wanna have a confirmation before getting the block


----------



## MightEMatt

khemist said:


> snip
> 
> Down to a single rad in my r6.



Did you drop from dual 360s? What kinda temperature differences are you seeing?


----------



## crafty615

hrockh said:


> Nice builds!
> 
> Will this water block (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-nickel-short-top) be compatible with this 1080 TI (https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/zotac-geforce-gtx-1080-ti)?
> 
> The Zotac is a reference design, so it should be. Just wanna have a confirmation before getting the block


Looks like you linked a 1080 waterblock and not a 1080 ti block. According to the configurator (https://www.ekwb.com/configurator) this is the one you'd want: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-1080-gtx-ti-nickel


----------



## khemist

I had a slim 240 in the roof, i'll let you know after i've played some games.


----------



## khemist

Can't remember the exact temps before but i'm hitting 44c on the GPU and 66c on my 7700k delidded after a couple of hours of BF1.


----------



## Zammin

khemist said:


> Down to a single rad in my r6.


That looks really tidy, love the way that GPU block looks.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Some Watercool p0rn


----------



## Zammin

Man, all this Heatkiller gear looks amazing. I've never heard of them until seeing their parts in this thread.


----------



## MNMadman

Yeah, Watercool makes great products.

I've got the same pump and top and their performance is top-notch. Plus they match with my MO-RA3 1080 (120mm x 9) radiator, 150mm Heatkiller Tube reservoir, and Heatkiller IV GPU block with backplate.

I like the look of the CPU block, but I can't stand not being able to see the coolant.


----------



## -MidnightMan-

Corsair dual 140mm push/pull (560 mm AIO)


----------



## crafty615

Pump started slowly dying a year or so ago after only 2 or so years of use. Anyone have a suggestion for a new one? Current one is Koolance D5. Needs to be able to work with my bitspower mod body kit and top (which I'm sure all D5s do). Would be great if I could get it on Amazon (PPCS shipping cost is killer)


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi, @-MidnightMan-
Nice but
A dual 140mm fan aio is a 280mm aio not a 560mm 

And one of it's fan mounts is not screwed in all the way.


----------



## -MidnightMan-

True, dual 140 is 280mm radiator - was saying in jest push-pull config (four 140mm fans) make it a 560mm-lol, but i'm yet to see a 560mm radiator (or a case that would fit one - :laughings).

Thanks spotting the screw, :buttkick: been corrected. What happens to 57 year old retired Service Techs not wearing their glasses.:glasses


----------



## Barefooter

-MidnightMan- said:


> True, dual 140 is 280mm radiator - was saying in jest push-pull config (four 140mm fans) make it a 560mm-lol, but i'm yet to see a 560mm radiator (or a case that would fit one - :laughings).



Here's a case that holds four 560mm radiators plus two 280mm radiators 






























.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sadly CaseLabs went out of business...

... So good luck finding one that is not stolen IP. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## VeritronX

The tj11 supported a 560mm rad from memory, I'm not recalling much else that does though.. even the enthoo primo ultimate only goes to 420/480mm.


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

Here are recent pictures of my build,switched few months back from Enthoo Primo to Caselabs M8 with pedestal















































Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## Yukss

decent


----------



## Yukss

recent build...!


----------



## Davitz

Hey guys I was thinking of changing up my case and loop config recently and am wondering if anyone has experience with the thermaltake view 71 TG and rad support? Was looking to do 2 360 rads but not sure how thick I can go with them? If I'm stuck with using 30mm rads I'll probably end up holding out for the View 91 and just do 480 x60mm and a 360 x60mm or something of the sort.


----------



## mouacyk

Yukss said:


> recent build...!


Looks great and clean. Curious as to why the GPU isn't on water also.


----------



## Yukss

mouacyk said:


> Looks great and clean. Curious as to why the GPU isn't on water also.


i always wc the gpu, this model only has a ek acetal block which is not the one i want, so if i dont anything else i guess i will use it


----------



## wermad

Ceadderman said:


> Sadly CaseLabs went out of business...
> 
> ... So good luck finding one that is not stolen IP.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I just heard. Man that sucks . I still have my TX10-D w/ Ped in storage. 

How you been old buddy!!!



Got a new rig in the works. It's picking up where I left off in 2016 (hence name "picking up where I left off" ) and it's slowly coming together. No full custom, but it does dabble with clc/aio, which I've never fully used. I got the case, mb, cpu, psu, and cpu-aio. Pending ram (damn prices are high ), gpu's, and monitor.


----------



## drdbkarron

wermad, if you want to part out your tx10-D for pedestals or sell the entire unit, PM or email me ([email protected]) me. I'm looking for pedestals and high tops for the dual motherboard monsters. Perhaps running a second one
is better than cramming more stuff in one.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

wermad said:


> I just heard. Man that sucks . I still have my TX10-D w/ Ped in storage.
> 
> How you been old buddy!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new rig in the works. It's picking up where I left off in 2016 (hence name "picking up where I left off" ) and it's slowly coming together. No full custom, but it does dabble with clc/aio, which I've never fully used. I got the case, mb, cpu, psu, and cpu-aio. Pending ram (damn prices are high ), gpu's, and monitor.


Werm, I missed you brother. I have been out lately on building. I will be back though due to a boot problem with my SMA8 most likely related to the spray painted Rampage V I decided to mess with. Ran for almost 3 years without problems. I will need to strip down, clean, and replace a couple things so I have been tossing around Ideas for when that time comes! It's hard though since I still want to use my 5930k and the boards seem to be obsolete fast. 

TCO


----------



## emsj86

big werm thought you sold all your stuff. good to see you


----------



## wermad

drdbkarron said:


> wermad, if you want to part out your tx10-D for pedestals or sell the entire unit, PM or email me ([email protected]) me. I'm looking for pedestals and high tops for the dual motherboard monsters. Perhaps running a second one
> is better than cramming more stuff in one.


Fosho, I've felt really bad that poor thing has been left in storage. 



TheCautiousOne said:


> Werm, I missed you brother. I have been out lately on building. I will be back though due to a boot problem with my SMA8 most likely related to the spray painted Rampage V I decided to mess with. Ran for almost 3 years without problems. I will need to strip down, clean, and replace a couple things so I have been tossing around Ideas for when that time comes! It's hard though since I still want to use my 5930k and the boards seem to be obsolete fast.
> 
> TCO


I've missed the whole community. Took me two years, but I'm back to loving puters and building them. Things are going positive for me in my life and I felt it was the right time to get back in to this awesome world. 



emsj86 said:


> big werm thought you sold all your stuff. good to see you


Good to see you dude!

The TX10 and a few small bits and pieces are still in storage. But 90% of this beast was sold off eventually. This new rig, I'm slowly acquiring the parts for it. I'm going to school full time (and work full time), so I have little spare time. The board is the same model as the TX10 build. the gpu's are what I had planned to do as my next build back in 2016. Even though i was not in the community, my job does require me to keep tabs on the industry. 

I'll have gpu updates probably towards the end of September and a complete build by late October. 

-Cheers to all!


----------



## Yukss

im wondering why i am still in this forum?


----------



## pm40elys40

in the process of testing and finishing my first CPU loop in an adapted and modified Lian-li case from 2009. (EK SPC+res and fittings, XSPC rad, Alphacool WB, Noctua+NB fans) i7-7700K, 2-way SLI ready (10.5" long cards)


----------



## Emissary of Pain

So it seems my Rampage Black board has finally given its last breath 



Is there a way for me to adapt my Eisblock XPX to fit X399 ? .... Or am I stuck with Intel until I can find the cash to replace a 2 month old block


----------



## Nighthog

Just did a rebuild and added the extra 120mm I ordered 2 weeks back and all the damn 90degree angled adapters I thought I would need, way to many...

I also removed all my "alien snot" tubing for some fresh ones from a new package. I was surprised to see even if it was sold as the same and packaged the same etc all, the tubing was a different kind from the one I got with my first kit. (old was more neutral and transparent) The new ones were a little more opaque and and slightly blue tinted. The feel of the tube was completely different as well. I do hope these don't age as badly as the old ones.  I really hope they do...

Though sadly I ain't totally happy how it ended up like.


----------



## MNMadman

Emissary of Pain said:


> Is there a way for me to adapt my Eisblock XPX to fit X399 ? .... Or am I stuck with Intel until I can find the cash to replace a 2 month old block


Any block that doesn't cover the entire heat spreader (with the cold plate itself _and_ the fin array inside) is going to suck, so stick with Intel.



Nighthog said:


> I also removed all my "alien snot" tubing for some fresh ones from a new package. I was surprised to see even if it was sold as the same and packaged the same etc all, the tubing was a different kind from the one I got with my first kit. (old was more neutral and transparent) The new ones were a little more opaque and and slightly blue tinted. The feel of the tube was completely different as well. I do hope these don't age as badly as the old ones.  I really hope they do...


What tubing is it? I've only used PrimoChill and it's been consistent through six different builds (new tubing for each one).


----------



## Nighthog

MNMadman said:


> What tubing is it? I've only used PrimoChill and it's been consistent through six different builds (new tubing for each one).


First kit was a tubing that came with mine Alphacool NexXxoS Cool Answer 360 XT kit I had bought for a starter kit to begin my WC experience a while back. 
The new one I bought "the same" in retail package a short couple months back.

I did now notice a difference in the packaging, the old was "made in China" new one is "made in Germany". Obviously not the same.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Thanks for the advice


----------



## Ceadderman

MNMadman said:


> Any block that doesn't cover the entire heat spreader (with the cold plate itself _and_ the fin array inside) is going to suck, so stick with Intel.
> 
> 
> What tubing is it? I've only used PrimoChill and it's been consistent through six different builds (new tubing for each one).


While that first bit seems like sound advice, Threadripper is a really solid platform to go with. I suggest either the new EK TR or the HeatKiller TR blocks will cover that chip just fine. TR simply trounces Intel. So if you can afford it I wouldn't reccomend Intel over it for the money.

And unless clear tubing is a must EK ZMT tubing is a good tubing to go to. Although EK does have Z clear. So I suggest picking up a roll of ZMT or a couple rolls of Z clear JIC the clear is as prone as all the others to hazing and discoloring.

But that's just me. :2cents:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## DarthBaggins

The build made it's 1300 mile trip for the 4th time safely. Just cleaned it off a bit before putting it on it temporary desk until I find a new house/apartment


----------



## Eze2kiel

Nighthog said:


> Just did a rebuild and added the extra 120mm I ordered 2 weeks back and all the damn 90degree angled adapters I thought I would need, way to many...
> 
> I also removed all my "alien snot" tubing for some fresh ones from a new package. I was surprised to see even if it was sold as the same and packaged the same etc all, the tubing was a different kind from the one I got with my first kit. (old was more neutral and transparent) The new ones were a little more opaque and and slightly blue tinted. The feel of the tube was completely different as well. I do hope these don't age as badly as the old ones.  I really hope they do...
> 
> Though sadly I ain't totally happy how it ended up like.


The best tubing over the years for me are the Saint-Gobain Durelene.
I recently bought Mayhems but I haven't used them yet.
The Durelene I've more than five years ago and are transparent as the first day!


----------



## MNMadman

Ceadderman said:


> While that first bit seems like sound advice, Threadripper is a really solid platform to go with. I suggest either the new EK TR or the HeatKiller TR blocks will cover that chip just fine. TR simply trounces Intel. So if you can afford it I wouldn't reccomend Intel over it for the money.
> 
> And unless clear tubing is a must EK ZMT tubing is a good tubing to go to. Although EK does have Z clear. So I suggest picking up a roll of ZMT or a couple rolls of Z clear JIC the clear is as prone as all the others to hazing and discoloring.
> 
> But that's just me. :2cents:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I'd go with the XSPC Raystorm Neo TR4 or Watercool Heatkiller IV TR4 before the EK. Yes, they came out with a new version that looks like it performs well. But they need to be punished for trying to trying to pass off a crappy block as the real deal. They screwed a lot of people doing that. I wasn't one of them, but it'll still be a long time before I recommend EK as a first choice unless there are specific circumstances -- like me wanting a monoblock for my X399 Taichi, for instance. Only one choice there (EK).

And I can't stand not being able to see the coolant, so I don't recommend any opaque tubing or blocks. Tried Bloodshed Red PrimoChill tubing once -- cool color and all, but hated it. ZMT could be the best tubing in the world, but I wouldn't ever use it. Just me being my quirky self.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Ceadderman said:


> While that first bit seems like sound advice, Threadripper is a really solid platform to go with. I suggest either the new EK TR or the HeatKiller TR blocks will cover that chip just fine. TR simply trounces Intel. So if you can afford it I wouldn't reccomend Intel over it for the money.
> 
> And unless clear tubing is a must EK ZMT tubing is a good tubing to go to. Although EK does have Z clear. So I suggest picking up a roll of ZMT or a couple rolls of Z clear JIC the clear is as prone as all the others to hazing and discoloring.
> 
> But that's just me. :2cents:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


4


I already have hard tubing left over from my x79 build ... so I think I will re-use the 16mm fittings and tubing

I will also check out those blocks, thanks man  ... ... Was really hoping to not have to buy a new block but so is life





MNMadman said:


> I'd go with the XSPC Raystorm Neo TR4 or Watercool Heatkiller IV TR4 before the EK. Yes, they came out with a new version that looks like it performs well. But they need to be punished for trying to trying to pass off a crappy block as the real deal. They screwed a lot of people doing that. I wasn't one of them, but it'll still be a long time before I recommend EK as a first choice unless there are specific circumstances -- like me wanting a monoblock for my X399 Taichi, for instance. Only one choice there (EK).
> 
> And I can't stand not being able to see the coolant, so I don't recommend any opaque tubing or blocks. Tried Bloodshed Red PrimoChill tubing once -- cool color and all, but hated it. ZMT could be the best tubing in the world, but I wouldn't ever use it. Just me being my quirky self.



I will check the blocks you mentioned as well ... I am not phased by who committed what sin, etc, if the new product works it works


----------



## Ceadderman

wermad said:


> How you been old buddy!!!
> 
> 
> I just heard. Man that sucks . I still have my TX10-D w/ Ped in storage.
> 
> Got a new rig in the works. It's picking up where I left off in 2016 (hence name "picking up where I left off" ) and it's slowly coming together. No full custom, but it does dabble with clc/aio, which I've never fully used. I got the case, mb, cpu, psu, and cpu-aio. Pending ram (damn prices are high ), gpu's, and monitor.


Been pretty good bro. 40 a week during the Summer season so days have been dropping off the calendar pretty quickly. My son takes alto of my time too and now I am rebuilding Darkside.

Tore out the 5.25 and HDD cages to make room for the 360 and the reservoir. Stuck two SSDs on the back of the MB tray using m3 standoffs one vertically and one horizontally. For my OS and Steam library. I will be mounting a storage HDD below the MB over the cable pass to cover most of my storage needs as well as the cabling coming from my newish EVGA 850 G3.

Got the old CIVF motherboard still with the 1100T since I decided to pass on FX entirely. Built too many of those with heat issues and had to RMA a few too. Did Early Adopt 1800x but the cost of RAM went crazy stupid before I could get 3600 speed sticks. Just want 2x16 since Ryzen seems to be more stable with 2 slots over 4 slots. 

So for now...

CIVF with EK MB block. Too early for monblock. But hopefully that will change soonish.
1100T under EK Classy Supreme HF.
Monarch x4 RAM block.
XFX 8gb RX480 under EK Copper/Acetyl RX480 block.
EK 3x RGB 250 
EK D5 clean X-Top block
And 2x 360SE(have one atm) one in front and one up top. Eventually I will hack the doors to mount them opposite each other with one in the top. But for now 2 is fine.

I have six white 1/2"x5/8" Monsoon hardline tubes and 12 economy v1 fittings that I will use to connect with 3 Monsoon 90° rotaries as well as some BP rotary fittings and s/o valve and 2 BP passthroughs for fill and drain ports. My problem child port is the lower southbridge port which resides right next to the base of the first RAM bank. It's really tight quarters there. But the fitting made it without touching either the bank or the block. 

Soon as I can swing it I plan to swap the Ryzen build into this case. Pricing and life issues slowed things down quite a bit. But I haven't given up on my mod. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## fgiannone

Dual loop in a Corsair 750D, barrow fittings and GPU block, EKWB CPU block, Alphacool radiators (2x360)...still working on it


----------



## fgiannone

Dual loop in a Corsair 750D, barrow fittings and GPU block, EKWB CPU block, Alphacool radiators (2x360)...still working on it


----------



## alextheguy

Hello, there. May I know if small case like Define Nano S is able to accomodate the EKWB EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM? Thanks.


----------



## emsj86

Maybe someone can help. I just changed my build to having 16mm tubing. I’m having a problem where even after flipping and shaking the pc for hours I have on he exit of my cpu block a bubble. I let t go over night and in the morning the tube exiting the cpu block is only half filled. I’ve laid it on its back, it’s side, and shook the pc. I even went as far as draining and the filling the loop. Any ideas. The cpu block is an ek block that’s I used for the last two years with no changes outside of going to larger tubing. Very bad picture but here is the build now.


----------



## GAN77

emsj86 said:


> Very bad picture but here is the build now.


Do you use a tube in the tank?

link
https://www.highflow.nl/watercoolin...g1-4-matt-black-aqua-pipe-ii-bp-mbwp-c18.html


----------



## crafty615

emsj86 said:


> Maybe someone can help. I just changed my build to having 16mm tubing. I’m having a problem where even after flipping and shaking the pc for hours I have on he exit of my cpu block a bubble. I let t go over night and in the morning the tube exiting the cpu block is only half filled. I’ve laid it on its back, it’s side, and shook the pc. I even went as far as draining and the filling the loop. Any ideas. The cpu block is an ek block that’s I used for the last two years with no changes outside of going to larger tubing. Very bad picture but here is the build now.


I had this problem on one or two of my rebuilds with 16mm tube. I found a combination of tilting the PC and turning on and off the pump helped. Tilting moves the bubbles and powering the pump on and off will give the liquid enough of a rush to get bubbles around the corners they get stuck on. Have you tried leaving it going with your fill port open? I sometimes leave it for a few days with the port open to let air escape.



GAN77 said:


> Do you use a tube in the tank?
> 
> link
> https://www.highflow.nl/watercoolin...g1-4-matt-black-aqua-pipe-ii-bp-mbwp-c18.html


I thought the only purpose of those was to prevent a cyclone in the res?


----------



## emsj86

I will try tilting it more. The reservoir does have he tube inside. I’ve cycled he pump and had the pc on its back and the front and he side. Now I see the Bubbles. But after an hour of laying flat the problem comes back. I also tried having the cap off for a 8 hours. Half tempted to remove the cpu block on the off chance something is not right there. I don’t see why it would be but if a few more tilts don’t work than I’m not sure what else to do. Afraid of Shaking the rig too hard as all my fittings are push in style and I had one pop out last while shaking it. Thanks for the help. I’ll try it again tonight


----------



## mouacyk

Over time it will go away. I had a bubble in my 1080 TI block mounted vertically. Tilting and varying the pump speeds will only do so much. After a few weeks, it just disappeared on its own.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah it always takes a while for air to leave some spots in a loop, I still have bubbles coming into my res from time to time when I crank up the pump speed. (I rebuilt my loop over 4+ months ago)


----------



## kazablanka

hello guys ,i just finish my custom loop upgrade.


----------



## pewpewlazer

I finally picked up some of these fancy pants newfangled Corsair maglev fans, and figured I should grab a picture after I installed them. Even after 3 years, this beast is still a marvel to behold, with its perfect cable management and well routed water cooling tubing. I spent an arduous minute if not two whole minutes making sure I tucked the new fan wires away so that they wouldn't ruin the otherwise flawless aesthetic of my build.


----------



## MNMadman

pewpewlazer said:


> I finally picked up some of these fancy pants newfangled Corsair maglev fans, and figured I should grab a picture after I installed them. Even after 3 years, this beast is still a marvel to behold, with its perfect cable management and well routed water cooling tubing. I spent an arduous minute if not two whole minutes making sure I tucked the new fan wires away so that they wouldn't ruin the otherwise flawless aesthetic of my build.


That's about what I do. I don't give a crap about having cables all over. The payoff isn't worth the effort.

If I was doing builds for shows or YouTube, that would be different.


----------



## Ceadderman

MNMadman said:


> That's about what I do. I don't give a crap about having cables all over. The payoff isn't worth the effort.
> 
> If I was doing builds for shows or YouTube, that would be different.


Sure there is if you spent 10 minutes on cable management. You needn't sleeve your cables but cable management is a must, even if you run an AIO setup. Twist ties work fabulously for tidying things up. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## ryan92084

pewpewlazer said:


> I finally picked up some of these fancy pants newfangled Corsair maglev fans, and figured I should grab a picture after I installed them. Even after 3 years, this beast is still a marvel to behold, with its perfect cable management and well routed water cooling tubing. I spent an arduous minute if not two whole minutes making sure I tucked the new fan wires away so that they wouldn't ruin the otherwise flawless aesthetic of my build.


Reminds me of my first build in a thermaltake xaser v. That thing was a mess with all those little fans and temp probes.


----------



## v1ral

Has anyone got any tips on filtering a 360 radiator in a corsair 540 with fans mounted on the outside front of the case?


----------



## emsj86

12mm to 16mm. Redoing a lot of the bends as I m not happy with the look


----------



## Questors

v1ral said:


> Has anyone got any tips on filtering a 360 radiator in a corsair 540 with fans mounted on the outside front of the case?



Try Demciflex/Demcifilter They make filter sets for many popular cases and also make custom filters based on your needs. Scan their site to see if a filter already exists or even if an existing product made for another case will work for yours. If not, contact them, provide the dimensions you require and they will give you a quote. 

Example: requesting quote for custom filter, rectangular filter 420mm x 65mm - something like that. 

demcifilter

There are also individual screens you can buy from the Silverstone and generic sources (I find them to be the same thing and cheaper from off brand) that mount directly to the fan. They are not as good as the Demciflex products, period.


----------



## broodro0ster

emsj86 said:


> 12mm to 16mm. Redoing a lot of the bends as I m not happy with the look


I like it, but I'd go for a 90° bend on the top of the GPU if possible.


----------



## Pedropc

This is now my assembly of the signature team, greetings.


----------



## Miptzi

My mini critter

Cr280 finals https://imgur.com/gallery/9ytw1NQ


----------



## Streetdragon

i think with the ?fan controller? you are blocking a good amount of you rad


----------



## galletabah

Pedropc said:


> This is now my assembly of the signature team, greetings.


hellowwwwww


----------



## Pedropc

Hello !!!!!!!! galletabah, greetings.


----------



## Miptzi

Streetdragon said:


> i think with the ?fan controller? you are blocking a good amount of you rad


yep, but its just temporary. the gpu block is ccoming already, then another unmount and reorder. The flowmeter will move to another higher spot to serve as a fillport,, and the controller will sit on the PSU label side....


----------



## TeslaHUN

I need some advice again :
I have 2x Alphacool D5 -res combo . I wanna use them tilted in my desk pc . Not fully horizontal ,but with 30-45degree tilt . Is it OK to use the pumps in that position ,or they will die sooner then in normal horizontal position ?

I also have 2 Alphacool HF quick connector . How restrictive are quick disconnects in general ? Is it worth to use them ? Would be ideal for me actually . I have one 420 rad inside , and 2 x 200x400 external . But if the quick connect adds too big restriction ,then i wont use .

Thanks


----------



## Tlow

I finisched my build in the LianLi O11 dynamic, build log in the signature


----------



## youngjnr

Old system New case 
Previous: Corsair 760t
New:BeQuiet Dark base 900









Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk


----------



## BangBangPlay

Just finished my Fractal Meshify build. I wanted to to hard tubing, but the clearances/angles near the rads were just too tight to have it look right IMO. I liked that I could do white tubing with the soft vs adding color to the coolant. So far temps are great in this case and nosie is totally manageable. Just waiting on some LEDs for the reservoir...


----------



## Knoxx29

Sorry for the Dust ( Busy at work ) and the bad quality of the photos


----------



## KuroiJay

*I7 8700k & 1080ti SC2*

my new build


----------



## Vlada011

Guys how you drop pump speed on constant speed 40% example on ROG boards.
I connect pump to W_Pump Fan Header and set in BIOS PWM Mode.
If I deacrease fan speed in AI Suite and restart computer she start to run on full speed in BIOS and back to speed I set when enter in Windows again. 
What is easiest way to control D5 Pump PWM to work constant on lower speed.


----------



## MNMadman

Vlada011 said:


> Guys how you drop pump speed on constant speed 40% example on ROG boards.
> I connect pump to W_Pump Fan Header and set in BIOS PWM Mode.
> If I deacrease fan speed in AI Suite and restart computer she start to run on full speed in BIOS and back to speed I set when enter in Windows again.
> What is easiest way to control D5 Pump PWM to work constant on lower speed.


What you have is normal.

I have my pump and fans set to run at 100% in the BIOS. I do not use Windows fan control software. During the BIOS boot process, they run slower than that. They speed up to 100% later in the boot process before Windows starts up.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah why be surprised 
Did you look at the default pump curve it uses in bios ?
It's max all the way across the graph


----------



## Vlada011

MNMadman said:


> What you have is normal.
> 
> I have my pump and fans set to run at 100% in the BIOS. I do not use Windows fan control software. During the BIOS boot process, they run slower than that. They speed up to 100% later in the boot process before Windows starts up.


I decrease fan speed in BIOS. Only during restart pump run 3-4 seconds on full speed same as you.
But't that's procedure of motherboard how react and I doubt I ca do something.
Why your pump run on Full Speed? 4700 RPM?Why that, pump is loud on 70-100RPM...
This is only 1500RPM and you see that pressure is more than enough... I install in Inlet Port and put less water to see pump pressure.
On 50-60% is not loud... 


http://www.mediafire.com/file/p7vruk7qo7aysm6/IMG_0747.MOV/file

Noise you hear is fan from H100.
I seriously think to buy EK D5 non PWM, I have option on marketplace for 50 euro brand new EK D5 Varion non PWM.
But I can' go down with screws every time to change fan speed. I rather think I will control with Noctua PWM controllers for fans.
If ROG BIOS can decrease pump speed than Noctua Fan Controller can as well.

I asked Noctua is it possible to controll D5 PWM with their controller, they send me PDF document for scientists about PWM, Jesus Christ.  Hahahaa Developer Specs 4 Wire PWM Controller Fans..

No, I will set flow to the constant speed no matter on temperature. From him depend nothing. 
On 30-40% is more than enough, I think. After this finish I will have Master diplom for ASUS ROG BIOS and PWC-DC Controlling.


----------



## Andrew LB

HITTI said:


> I could not imagine with the pro hard lines run setups, trying to drain, purge air out of etc. I have a simple setup and I gotta tip, tilt shake the crap out of my pc to get air out of the rad.



High flow rate makes getting the air out super easy. My dual DDC 10w pumps push 1.3 gpm and can only be heard when the fans are below 1k rpm. Even then its just a slight hum. After filling the loop, all that was required to get the air out was lifting the front or rear and setting it down with a slight bump. Getting bubbles out of the loop when i used soft tubing was much more time consuming and required lots of tilting and such. I should note i only had one 10w DDC when using the soft tubing. I've got 14mm acrylic in there now.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Knoxx29 said:


> Sorry for the Dust ( Busy at work ) and the bad quality of the photos


The tubing are too long.
Put the water case under the PC case so you avoid using long tubing and losing performance.


----------



## thx1138

Pedropc said:


> This is now my assembly of the signature team, greetings.


----------



## Vlada011

thx1138 said:


> [url]https://goo.gl/images/5YF3yi[/url] [\img][/quote]
> 
> WOW, nice case, perfect tube size just as i like, great.
> I mean really great.
> 
> I thought about DG-87 because really case have something special, but I didn't had place for him.
> Only option was to remove TV from house and install case and stare in him whole day.
> I measured, planned but no... I just had idea to punish one friend who owe me favor to bring me one small PC case.
> I planned to tell nothing about size to see him in store.


----------



## Knoxx29

Eze2kiel said:


> The tubing are too long.
> Put the water case under the PC case so you avoid using long tubing and losing performance.


Do you mind to tell me what performance will it lose?


----------



## Knoxx29

..


----------



## Streetdragon

Knoxx29 said:


> Do you mind to tell me what performance will it lose?


i would say... none^^


----------



## Knoxx29

Streetdragon said:


> i would say... none^^


Indeed, i am trying to understand what he meant.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quick one of my Lian Li v3000
I'll take better pics when i swap out the clear fluid for UV reactive and get the 2080ti in
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=220416&thumb=1


----------



## kj1060

alanthecelt said:


> Quick one of my Lian Li v3000
> I'll take better pics when i swap out the clear fluid for UV reactive and get the 2080ti in


Very cool. Where did you get the tempered glass for the front. I see it sells with a aluminum front.


----------



## alanthecelt

kj1060 said:


> Very cool. Where did you get the tempered glass for the front. I see it sells with a aluminum front.


I had a glass shop make it


----------



## DarthBaggins

Personally I would stick with the standard clear fluid, looks perfect right not imo.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Knoxx29 said:


> Do you mind to tell me what performance will it lose?





Streetdragon said:


> i would say... none^^



This. About the only performance 'loss' would be in the form of slightly (_very slightly_) increased loop restriction. Probably about the same amount that an additional 90 degree fitting would add to the loop - and far less than any other single component would. I suppose depending on the ambient you might lose a minuscule amount as far as fluid temps are concerned - but again the difference should be less than 1C.


If it made it more usable to have the chiller in a different room (or just quieter even) I'd say that compromise would be totally worth it as well. If that increase in restriction was meaningful, then your pump was already working too hard and you should add another one.


----------



## Knoxx29

DiGiCiDAL said:


> This. About the only performance 'loss' would be in the form of slightly (_very slightly_) increased loop restriction. Probably about the same amount that an additional 90 degree fitting would add to the loop - and far less than any other single component would. I suppose depending on the ambient you might lose a minuscule amount as far as fluid temps are concerned - but again the difference should be less than 1C.
> 
> 
> If it made it more usable to have the chiller in a different room (or just quieter even) I'd say that compromise would be totally worth it as well. If that increase in restriction was meaningful, then your pump was already working too hard and you should add another one.


+1 on that

When you have a Chiller that is able to cool the water up to -5c the 1C difference you don't see it at all ;-) my pump is rated 5000rpm and i have it over 3 years working at 2800rpm because even the length of the tubing and the distance between the PC and the Chiller the water flows smoothly


----------



## looniam

Pressure drop of 10′ 1/2″ tubing and one reservoir = .3PSI @1 GPM

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/


----------



## Knoxx29

And that is not my case


----------



## looniam

case in case or case in point? :h34r-smi


----------



## alanthecelt

DarthBaggins said:


> Personally I would stick with the standard clear fluid, looks perfect right not imo.


if this is ref mine, yer the final liquid will be clear, but UV reactive
I have a separate channel of UV lighting installed so the UV bit will be entirely optional


----------



## kj1060

alanthecelt said:


> I had a glass shop make it


Thanks for the response. It looks really cool.


----------



## bluedevil

Anyone have a CaseLabsUSA case out there? I am putting together a CaseLabs Tribute video on the @overclocknet YouTube channel. I know the legendary JayzTwoCents has a SMA8, would love a couple pics.


----------



## IT Diva

bluedevil said:


> Anyone have a CaseLabsUSA case out there? I am putting together a CaseLabs Tribute video on the @*overclocknet* YouTube channel. I know the *legendary JayzTwoCents* has a SMA8, would love a couple pics.





In his own mind, maybe . . . . :lachen:


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

IT Diva said:


> In his own mind, maybe . . . . :lachen:



He's in*FAMOUS* - of course he's a legend.


----------



## Vlada011

Is it possible to professional service replace 4pin Molex for power of D5 Laing with SATA Power connector.
I have phobia from 4 pin Molex because my old H100 arrived to me with one leg from two broken. And that cause to one wire fall out when I connect him. I know trick how to back him inside, but that last 6 years and more than 12-15 cleaning and I had phobya of 4pin Molex in computer industry and think that should be removed completely. 
I know I will lost warranty but is it possible to professional crim him and connect in SATA?

Now I saw CORSAIR and other companies use them for new AIO, 
but watercooling manufacturers looks like not follow them with new D5 versions.
Every time when I connect Molex my H100 was in my head and that was reported problem from more people.
Anyway If I decide to sleeve D5 I will lost warranty, but than I could maybe to improve her with one SATA Power.
She have only 2 wires.


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> Is it possible to professional service replace 4pin Molex for power of D5 Laing with SATA Power connector.
> I have phobia from 4 pin Molex because my old H100 arrived to me with one leg from two broken. And that cause to one wire fall out when I connect him. I know trick how to back him inside, but that last 6 years and more than 12-15 cleaning and I had phobya of 4pin Molex in computer industry and think that should be removed completely.
> I know I will lost warranty but is it possible to professional crim him and connect in SATA?
> 
> Now I saw CORSAIR and other companies use them for new AIO,
> but watercooling manufacturers looks like not follow them with new D5 versions.
> Every time when I connect Molex my H100 was in my head and that was reported problem from more people.
> Anyway If I decide to sleeve D5 I will lost warranty, but than I could maybe to improve her with one SATA Power.
> She have only 2 wires.


Just get new Molex pins and connector. It's easy to replace them. Go to mdpc-x.com to get the tools. Why replace the standard connection with a non standard connector? Especially when Molex is only running up to four pins.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Vlada011

Ceadderman said:


> Just get new Molex pins and connector. It's easy to replace them. Go to mdpc-x.com to get the tools. Why replace the standard connection with a non standard connector? Especially when Molex is only running up to four pins.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I have tools to sleeve Molex, Fan Connectors and MDPC-X Pin Remover.
But I just want to use SATA instead Molex. I have Black Molex Connector and black 4 pin fan connector to replace default on D5 Pump after sleeve.
Only I would be much happier with SATA.


----------



## Vlada011

Ceadderman said:


> Just get new Molex pins and connector. It's easy to replace them. Go to mdpc-x.com to get the tools. Why replace the standard connection with a non standard connector? Especially when Molex is only running up to four pins.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I have tools to sleeve Molex, Fan Connectors and MDPC-X Pin Remover.
But I just want to use SATA instead Molex. I have Black Molex Connector and black 4 pin fan connector to replace default on D5 Pump after sleeve.
Only I would be much happier with SATA.

I don't need now, that was on H100 and I don't use him any more.


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> I have tools to sleeve Molex, Fan Connectors and MDPC-X Pin Remover.
> But I just want to use SATA instead Molex. I have Black Molex Connector and black 4 pin fan connector to replace default on D5 Pump after sleeve.
> Only I would be much happier with SATA.
> 
> I don't need now, that was on H100 and I don't use him any more.


I wouldn't. If the manufacturer thought SATA power was better, they would have applied it before it was boxed and shipped. 

But that's just me. lol

Also you have to identify which power lead is which. There is a 12v and a 5v lead in the mix. Your pump doesn't have a 5v connection in Molex. Do what you want but I wouldn't recommend it.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## looniam

i'm pretty sure molex is [a lot] cheaper . .


----------



## Vlada011

Yes, CORSAIR I think switched to SATA connector for power pump.
I wouldn't do that myself, I only do things I'm sure I can done properly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> Yes, CORSAIR I think switched to SATA connector for power pump.
> I wouldn't do that myself, I only do things I'm sure I can done properly.


EK also used SATA in their Predator line. Specifically to control pump speed or for their fan controller which is built onto the Radiators allowing their fans to be controlled via the controller. 5v across three lanes is pretty reasonable considering each fan probably pulls less voltage at the socket in 1 for 1 in parallel than series.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Jossrik

Ceadderman said:


> EK also used SATA in their Predator line. Specifically to control pump speed or for their fan controller which is built onto the Radiators allowing their fans to be controlled via the controller. 5v across three lanes is pretty reasonable considering each fan probably pulls less voltage at the socket in 1 for 1 in parallel than series.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I have a pair of D5 pumps with molex to SATA adapters so I don't have to use the molex line on my PSU I'm pretty sure you could wire it your self, but I wouldn't recommend it without knowing what you're doing, the adapters are cheap enough. For me I had 2x3Tb drives and 2 SSDs they were all SATA so that's what I wanted for my pumps cause I allready had the cabling in place, course now all I have is the one NVMe drive so I could switch back to molex, but I don't think there's a difference for all it's worth, what you run it on. Both my pumps are PWM and connected to the motherboard fan/pump headers.


----------



## zumppjr96

bluedevil said:


> Anyone have a CaseLabsUSA case out there? I am putting together a CaseLabs Tribute video on the @overclocknet YouTube channel. I know the legendary JayzTwoCents has a SMA8, would love a couple pics.


You can put me in the tribute video if you would like. 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...-club-picture-gallery-10838.html#post27282657


----------



## DarthBaggins

bluedevil said:


> Anyone have a CaseLabsUSA case out there? I am putting together a CaseLabs Tribute video on the @overclocknet YouTube channel. I know the legendary JayzTwoCents has a SMA8, would love a couple pics.


Yup, and thanks for reminding me that I need to dig it out of storage and start working on this Fall/winter's project :thumb:


----------



## Vlada011

Jossrik said:


> I have a pair of D5 pumps with molex to SATA adapters so I don't have to use the molex line on my PSU I'm pretty sure you could wire it your self, but I wouldn't recommend it without knowing what you're doing, the adapters are cheap enough. For me I had 2x3Tb drives and 2 SSDs they were all SATA so that's what I wanted for my pumps cause I allready had the cabling in place, course now all I have is the one NVMe drive so I could switch back to molex, but I don't think there's a difference for all it's worth, what you run it on. Both my pumps are PWM and connected to the motherboard fan/pump headers.


That's even better, you connect Molex to pump once and later use SATA connector.
But you probably connected 2x D5 on Molex to one SATA???


----------



## bluedevil

zumppjr96 said:


> You can put me in the tribute video if you would like.
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...-club-picture-gallery-10838.html#post27282657


Would have loved to, it's a clean af build. :thumb:



DarthBaggins said:


> Yup, and thanks for reminding me that I need to dig it out of storage and start working on this Fall/winter's project :thumb:


No prob! :thumb:


----------



## Jossrik

Vlada011 said:


> That's even better, you connect Molex to pump once and later use SATA connector.
> But you probably connected 2x D5 on Molex to one SATA???


Nah, 2 SATA to Molex connectors... I had one cable from the PSU going to the front of the case, and that one had 4 SATA connectors, so I used 2 for HDDs and 2 for my pumps.


----------



## jtom320

Hey guys, can anyone point me in the direction of the current EVGA product rep. Got a 1080 with an EK block. 1080 just suddenly died after two years of no problems. I'm not all that enthused by EVGA's support staff over email. Mostly it's just been about things they can potentially charge me for. (Plastic backplate (this is a founders card) screw tightness )) etc etc. Also that they can't promise me a reference board to fit with my block. Which I do get. It's just the way the emails are written that has me concerned.

I've always been treated pretty fairly on OCN and if someone could give me that name I'd really appreciate it.


----------



## thenotoriousmma

my new costum system :

8700K @5,2Ghz - 1,390V
Asus Rog Maximus X Hero 
32gb Corsair Dominator 3300Mhz
Asus Rog Strix GTX 1080TI OC 
Samsung 970Pro 512GB
Samsung 950Pro 512GB
Evga 1000W SuperNova P2
Thermaltake View 71TG


----------



## Ceadderman

thenotoriousmma said:


> my new costum system :
> 
> 8700K @5,2Ghz - 1,390V
> Asus Rog Maximus X Hero
> 32gb Corsair Dominator 3300Mhz
> Asus Rog Strix GTX 1080TI OC
> Samsung 970Pro 512GB
> Samsung 950Pro 512GB
> Evga 1000W SuperNova P2
> Thermaltake View 71TG


Nice clean build that. Your flow meter, is which model? And your temp gauge? 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## thenotoriousmma

thanks bro 

temp : Thermaltake Pacific Temperature Sensor 
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-...1538729505&sr=8-1&keywords=thermaltake+sensor

flow : Thermaltake Pacific Flow Indicator
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-...60&sr=8-1&keywords=thermaltake+flow+indicator


----------



## B NEGATIVE

IT Diva said:


> In his own mind, maybe . . . . :lachen:


+1.

That man is an imbecile.


----------



## bluedevil

B NEGATIVE said:


> +1.
> 
> That man is an imbecile.



Well be that as it may, he has over 1.7 million subs.


----------



## nanotm

bluedevil said:


> Well be that as it may, he has over 1.7 million subs.


when he doesnt try too hard his vids are actually funny and some of the stuff he does is just plain out crazy, although i would class the latest batch of playing off each other with various other techtubers as being rather banal, i can see the appeal for some....

that asside i have gained plenty of information from him especially when he's killing bits or pointing out the deficiencies in various bits of hardware, besides its often nice to see new gear and drool over how great it looks only to find out its basically the same as the old stuff but now wiht a new and improved skin...


----------



## Ceadderman

nanotm said:


> when he doesnt try too hard his vids are actually funny and some of the stuff he does is just plain out crazy, although i would class the latest batch of playing off each other with various other techtubers as being rather banal, i can see the appeal for some....
> 
> that asside i have gained plenty of information from him especially when he's killing bits or pointing out the deficiencies in various bits of hardware, besides its often nice to see new gear and drool over how great it looks only to find out its basically the same as the old stuff but now wiht a new and improved skin...


I like Jayz channel. I like that he's working with the other tech tubers. The latest 2080 vids are pretty good viewing. Admits to messing up his 5.1 clock by being too eager to fire up his test bench. Non judgemental and funny. I think this world needs more of that not less. Our sector of the computer world could certainly use more of it anyway. 

I know I know... "But he drilled holes in his..." but what if his mod worked? At least dude is game to make an attempt. He did put blocks on that 2080 where none yet existed. And that worked.

I like most everyone here on OCN but have to admit some need to lighten up. :mellowsmi 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## bluedevil

Ceadderman said:


> I like Jayz channel. I like that he's working with the other tech tubers. The latest 2080 vids are pretty good viewing. Admits to messing up his 5.1 clock by being too eager to fire up his test bench. Non judgemental and funny. I think this world needs more of that not less. Our sector of the computer world could certainly use more of it anyway.
> 
> I know I know... "But he drilled holes in his..." but what if his mod worked? At least dude is game to make an attempt. He did put blocks on that 2080 where none yet existed. And that worked.
> 
> I like most everyone here on OCN but have to admit some need to lighten up. :mellowsmi
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:



Much agreed bro.  AND SUB TO OUR CHANNEL!


----------



## Gilles3000

Not much of a fan of Jay tbh, mostly because I've heard him say things in his videos that are just plain false one too many times. A lot of newcomers to the hobby rely on youtube channels to guide them, and when you push that much bs in your videos, you're degrading the community. 

Sure, he might have some entertainment value, but that doesn't make up for it imo.


----------



## taowulf

P.S. Molex is ugly.

And if someone watches Jay for entertainment, that is fine. If you reference him as an expert, you are sorely misguided.

Same for Kyle from Bitwit or that other guy that does stuff with Bitwit all the time.

Gamer's Nexus is alright even if Steve is a little tightly wound at times.


----------



## Ceadderman

bluedevil said:


> Much agreed bro.  AND SUB TO OUR CHANNEL!


Unless we have another channel, I am and have been subscribed to it. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## bluedevil

Ceadderman said:


> Unless we have another channel, I am and have been subscribed to it.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


It was more meant for others, I figured you were sub'd already.


----------



## KShirza1

Did a little bypass surgery to test it out. Now to install the vector block.


----------



## TeslaHUN

I have 2x pump/res combo . https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...-reservoir-incl.-1x-alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755
Soon im making my own desk pc . Im going to use them in sieries .In horizontal position , not the traditional vertical like in PC cases . 


Can i do that ? I know u can use 2 d5 in sieris with 1 reservior attached to them. But in my case both of the pump has their own reservoir . I fill the first pump/res with water then power on > it will fill up the 2nd res to full and exit at the 2nd d5 outlet to the rest of the loop right ? Is there any way to balance the level of water in both res ? To look the same . Its not so nice if one is on 75% and the other is on 100% . Also i think its good if the reservoirs are not full ,so the air bubbles have space to disappear.


----------



## Jokesterwild

just bleeding the new loop. Nothing ever fits how it does in your mind. Couple hours turns into 7-8 hr project lol


----------



## Vlada011

Jokesterwild said:


> just bleeding the new loop. Nothing ever fits how it does in your mind. Couple hours turns into 7-8 hr project lol



But look very nice, I'm fan on small combination reservoir and pump. 
Because of that I used smallest version of XRES 100. 
EK XRES 80-100, Alphacool Eisdecke DDC/D5 Single reservoir, Swiftech Maelstrom X50, ... 
that's combination I like because fit in small configuration.

OK bigger 200-250ml reservoir could give better temperatures, but not some huge difference.


----------



## Void-Ray

hi guys, i have a question, i have two graphic cards with EK blocks, and i want to connect them together, EK terminal supports up to 3 slot spacing, as i've seen in their website, but i need 4 slots spacing, do i have an option with any kind of bridge or terminal to connect them and avoid connecting them with tubing? or tubing is my only option here?


----------



## Deedaz

TeslaHUN said:


> I have 2x pump/res combo . https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...-reservoir-incl.-1x-alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755
> Soon im making my own desk pc . Im going to use them in sieries .In horizontal position , not the traditional vertical like in PC cases .
> 
> 
> Can i do that ? I know u can use 2 d5 in sieris with 1 reservior attached to them. But in my case both of the pump has their own reservoir . I fill the first pump/res with water then power on > it will fill up the 2nd res to full and exit at the 2nd d5 outlet to the rest of the loop right ? Is there any way to balance the level of water in both res ? To look the same . Its not so nice if one is on 75% and the other is on 100% . Also i think its good if the reservoirs are not full ,so the air bubbles have space to disappear.


I would suggest returning the 755 and getting a 655 or other D5 variant pump. Have a look here at the issues with the 755 pump.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Deedaz said:


> I would suggest returning the 755 and getting a 655 or other D5 variant pump. Have a look here at the issues with the 755 pump.


I know there are issues , this is my 3. pump , 2 755died already. But i still need answer for my questions


----------



## Deedaz

TeslaHUN said:


> I know there are issues , this is my 3. pump , 2 755died already. But i still need answer for my questions


They did some testing on pump orientation in that thread, I don't recall exactly what was found but a standard D5 shouldn't have any issue with your setup.


----------



## Ceadderman

TeslaHUN said:


> I know there are issues , this is my 3. pump , 2 755died already. But i still need answer for my questions


Yes you can certainly mount them in serial. But given there are issues with that pump model, I would suggest replacing them with a solid Vario model. You can use any amount of D5 pumps you wish. But like Radiators there is a point of diminishing return. Three pumps is kind of pushing things.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## KShirza1

RTX 2080 Ti EK Vector block and back plate installed


----------



## TeslaHUN

Ceadderman said:


> Yes you can certainly mount them in serial. But given there are issues with that pump model, I would suggest replacing them with a solid Vario model. You can use any amount of D5 pumps you wish. But like Radiators there is a point of diminishing return. Three pumps is kind of pushing things.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Sry maybe i wasnt clear . I will use 2 pump in series ,not 3 .
I just mentioned i have already 2 VPP 755 pump dead on my shelf . The 3rd that i ordered is working fine finally . 
And one VPP755 is working fine since the day i bought it half year ago.

I only bought this pump model again becouse im not sure if other D5 will fit in my Alphacool Eisbecher D5 250mm Acetal reservoir .


----------



## Vlada011

Looks like most people use 2 pumps or have at least reserve pump in house.
Reading experience of people I will probably buy EK D5 Vario Motor non PWM (Lowara) as backup pump.


----------



## Kimir

Hmm, no. 
I use one pump. I have another one still in the box, but it's reserved for the build I've yet to finish.
I don't see how you get that "most people use 2 pumps". :wth:


----------



## CptSpig

Vlada011 said:


> Looks like most people use 2 pumps or have at least reserve pump in house.
> Reading experience of people I will probably buy EK D5 Vario Motor non PWM (Lowara) as backup pump.





Kimir said:


> Hmm, no.
> I use one pump. I have another one still in the box, but it's reserved for the build I've yet to finish.
> I don't see how you get that "most people use 2 pumps". :wth:



I use two DDC pumps not for flow but just incase one dies the other will keep things from getting cooked. Peace of mind. :thumb:


----------



## crafty615

TeslaHUN said:


> I have 2x pump/res combo . https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...-reservoir-incl.-1x-alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755
> Soon im making my own desk pc . Im going to use them in sieries .In horizontal position , not the traditional vertical like in PC cases .
> 
> 
> Can i do that ? I know u can use 2 d5 in sieris with 1 reservior attached to them. But in my case both of the pump has their own reservoir . I fill the first pump/res with water then power on > it will fill up the 2nd res to full and exit at the 2nd d5 outlet to the rest of the loop right ? Is there any way to balance the level of water in both res ? To look the same . Its not so nice if one is on 75% and the other is on 100% . Also i think its good if the reservoirs are not full ,so the air bubbles have space to disappear.


if the second pump is on, as long as water is entering the 2nd res at the same speed it is leaving the 2nd pump I don't see why the water levels would be different besides different rates of evaporation. You could fill both reservoirs to a certain point, power pumps, then once the rest of the loop is filled top off each res.


----------



## dwolvin

I have never run more than one pump- if it starts to go I expect it to be audible for a while before it dies...


----------



## crafty615

dwolvin said:


> I have never run more than one pump- if it starts to go I expect it to be audible for a while before it dies...


That's not always true. My pump started dying and would just be completely off and I wouldn't notice until my temps rose pretty drastically. I would have to restart the PC and smack where the pump was to get it going. Although that was 2 years ago and after a month or 2 the issue magically disappeared. Which one would think meant it was just some blockage but I opened and cleaned my pump during that time and still had the issue for a while before going away.


----------



## taowulf

crafty615 said:


> That's not always true. My pump started dying and would just be completely off and I wouldn't notice until my temps rose pretty drastically. I would have to restart the PC and smack where the pump was to get it going. Although that was 2 years ago and after a month or 2 the issue magically disappeared. Which one would think meant it was just some blockage but I opened and cleaned my pump during that time and still had the issue for a while before going away.


Same here, had a couple pumps that died over the last decade or so, they were both quiet enough that i didn't ever hear them when the were running and often I could get them working again by whacking them.

Otherwise the first I had that something was wrong was a thermal shut down.

Cleaning mine never helped either.


----------



## KCDC

Been scrolling through catching up, noticed some molex and sata plug talk a few pages back. I would love to see old school molex taken out completely in favor of sata power. First reason for me is plug quality. Molex plugs are super janky half the time, at least with what I've experienced. Most recently the molex plug from my D5 pump being loose where the pins pop out and dont fully plug in without some force, which also push the pins out of the plug. This has happened to me quite a few times with many types of molex adapters, extenders, etc... Second reason is they're ugly and bulky when trying to make a clean, aesthetic build. I'm all for sata power throughout as the plug is always consistent in quality (in my experience), are thinner easier to hide away for that aesthetic build. Are they really that much more expensive? I personally hate using molex plugs.


----------



## KShirza1

RTX 2080 Ti blocked and running. Seeing about mid 40 temps on load.


----------



## Ceadderman

KCDC said:


> Been scrolling through catching up, noticed some molex and sata plug talk a few pages back. I would love to see old school molex taken out completely in favor of sata power. First reason for me is plug quality. Molex plugs are super janky half the time, at least with what I've experienced. Most recently the molex plug from my D5 pump being loose where the pins pop out and dont fully plug in without some force, which also push the pins out of the plug. This has happened to me quite a few times with many types of molex adapters, extenders, etc... Second reason is they're ugly and bulky when trying to make a clean, aesthetic build. I'm all for sata power throughout as the plug is always consistent in quality (in my experience), are thinner easier to hide away for that aesthetic build. Are they really that much more expensive? I personally hate using molex plugs.


Yeah, I think most if not all Enthusiast builders would like to see Molex go the way of the DoDo bird. 

Though I can't say I am surprised to see molex still being used. Older drives that use it for power are still around. Until everything is SATA powered, molex will continue as it always has. Though I cannot say my experience with molex has been as bad. Just the cheap Chinese junk I have had poor experiences with. Generally solved by simply replacing the connectors with a more robust connector salvaged from an old PSU. The pins will always move in the connectors but when you understand this you can use the cables to steady the pins straight into their allocated slots. If you want a good molex pin tool I suggest mdpc-x's since it tends to do the best job of compressing the pin locks to remove the pins without mucking them. I bought mine years ago. It comes in two pieces and one fits into the other and using an automotive crimper are fastened together. I sleeved mine with black and used red shrink to keep everything tidy looking. Beats every molex pin tool I have ever used and being brass piping, a lot more durable.

As soon as the molex power becomes less of a demand we should see
SATA taking over. Unfortunately some MB manufacturers also use molex for direct power support on their higher end boards. Both ASUS and MSi rely on them. I cannot speak to Aurus boards where Gigabyte is concerned but they may use them as well. Anyone know of EVGA boards? 

So yeah the demand is still there unfortunately. :blinksmil 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## crafty615

I need to make new connectors for my pump. is there and easy way to convert it to sata? I imagine you would simply just leave the extra GND, 3.3V, and 5V wires connected to nothing


----------



## nanotm

Ceadderman said:


> Yeah, I think most if not all Enthusiast builders would like to see Molex go the way of the DoDo bird.
> 
> Though I can't say I am surprised to see molex still being used. Older drives that use it for power are still around. Until everything is SATA powered, molex will continue as it always has. Though I cannot say my experience with molex has been as bad. Just the cheap Chinese junk I have had poor experiences with. Generally solved by simply replacing the connectors with a more robust connector salvaged from an old PSU. The pins will always move in the connectors but when you understand this you can use the cables to steady the pins straight into their allocated slots. If you want a good molex pin tool I suggest mdpc-x's since it tends to do the best job of compressing the pin locks to remove the pins without mucking them. I bought mine years ago. It comes in two pieces and one fits into the other and using an automotive crimper are fastened together. I sleeved mine with black and used red shrink to keep everything tidy looking. Beats every molex pin tool I have ever used and being brass piping, a lot more durable.
> 
> As soon as the molex power becomes less of a demand we should see
> SATA taking over. Unfortunately some MB manufacturers also use molex for direct power support on their higher end boards. Both ASUS and MSi rely on them. I cannot speak to Aurus boards where Gigabyte is concerned but they may use them as well. Anyone know of EVGA boards?
> 
> So yeah the demand is still there unfortunately. :blinksmil
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


probably becasue its easier to make custom cables with Molex than SATA connectors and Molex connectors tend to be more robust whereas sata is easier to break if there slightly misaligned and your a touch ham-fisted…..


----------



## Vlada011

Only ******ed person could break SATA, from other side Molex not depend from you always.
I would build D5 with ribbon 30cm SATA Cable for Power and ribbon 2 pin for reading PWM.
That's it, same as EK use for Velocity and RGB cable.

Every electronic service could make you new power cable for D5 or DDC pump, SATA or Molex if you bring them spare parts.
Old SATA cables or Molex cables, they have everything they need to build you different power cable or to make cable shorter, etc...


----------



## Ceadderman

Vlada011 said:


> Only ******ed person could break SATA, from other side Molex not depend from you always.
> I would build D5 with ribbon 30cm SATA Cable for Power and ribbon 2 pin for reading PWM.
> That's it, same as EK use for Velocity and RGB cable.
> 
> Every electronic service could make you new power cable for D5 or DDC pump, SATA or Molex if you bring them spare parts.
> Old SATA cables or Molex cables, they have everything they need to build you different power cable or to make cable shorter, etc...


Just looked up the pinout for SATA. Complete with Voltage layout. Yes it likely can be done. L side is +3v opposite end is +12v. The 3rd lead is +5v. The two leads in between all 3 are ground leads. So basically you need only the +12v and one ground to make it work. 

If you want to do it and feel confident enough in your abilities, go for it. After seeing the pinout with voltage I just may try it but there are two connections. One of them however is the female side and I haven't seen those being offered in my favorite suppliers sites. If you can find one and the pins to apply to it then you should be to go.

Just do a google search for "SATA pinout diagram with Voltages" or something to that effect. Good luck to ya. 

Edit: If you cannot find a female connector and pins you could get a Molex to Female adapter and remove the last three leads going to the L side of the connection. If your soldering skills are decent or better you could remove the Molex and hard wire it to the pump. Then simply plug in the power side and it should work without issue, since the other three leads are now dead leads having nowhere to send the power.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## KCDC

Ceadderman said:


> Just looked up the pinout for SATA. Complete with Voltage layout. Yes it likely can be done. L side is +3v opposite end is +12v. The 3rd lead is +5v. The two leads in between all 3 are ground leads. So basically you need only the +12v and one ground to make it work.
> 
> If you want to do it and feel confident enough in your abilities, go for it. After seeing the pinout with voltage I just may try it but there are two connections. One of them however is the female side and I haven't seen those being offered in my favorite suppliers sites. If you can find one and the pins to apply to it then you should be to go.
> 
> Just do a google search for "SATA pinout diagram with Voltages" or something to that effect. Good luck to ya.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:



Someone in the cable sleeving discussion thread must've done this already or has decent info.



https://www.overclock.net/forum/17973-cables-sleeving/662039-cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion.html


----------



## Ceadderman

KCDC said:


> Someone in the cable sleeving discussion thread must've done this already...
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/17973-cables-sleeving/662039-cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion.html


Doubtful tho possible. I sleeve and never gave much thought to changing the power configuration of my pumps. Not until now anyway. I may look for a cheap used pump or rely on a donor pump to attempt it. $90 is tough to throw away should it fail with my only working pump. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## crafty615

Ceadderman said:


> Doubtful tho possible. I sleeve and never gave much thought to changing the power configuration of my pumps. Not until now anyway. I may look for a cheap used pump or rely on a donor pump to attempt it. $90 is tough to throw away should it fail with my only working pump.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


My pump could fail any day since it had that mystery problem a year or 2 ago. It's been going strong for 3 years now though so I feel I would be fine if I fried it and have an excuse to get a new one. I am most likely going to attempt crimping a sata connector instead of molex on it in my upcoming rebuild. I'll post here with my findings


----------



## Ceadderman

crafty615 said:


> My pump could fail any day since it had that mystery problem a year or 2 ago. It's been going strong for 3 years now though so I feel I would be fine if I fried it and have an excuse to get a new one. I am most likely going to attempt crimping a sata connector instead of molex on it in my upcoming rebuild. I'll post here with my findings


If you get a molex to SATA Female connector I would suggest using mini butt connectors rather than soldering it in line. This should be possible so long as your pump leads are the stock length. It's not a pretty solution and you won't be able to sleeve them, however it will give you the most expedient of results. Either it will or it won't work. The adapter cable is color coded so you need the yellow and the black leads on the flat side of the connection. Those are the +12v and the ground immediately next to that. Clip the other leads after those short to the connector. They aren't needed and will be made dead when clipped. Then plug your power in. :thumb:

Good luck for the most positive of results. I look forward to reading how this mod came along. :cheers:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Jokesterwild

Put everything back together after my first baby decided to come early and interrupt my build! All good though everyone is happy and healthy. maybe one day she can build her own rig ha


----------



## gree

is the EVGA CLC 240 recommended at all?


looking to see if its enough to keep a 5930k cool


----------



## crafty615

Ceadderman said:


> If you get a molex to SATA Female connector I would suggest using mini butt connectors rather than soldering it in line. This should be possible so long as your pump leads are the stock length. It's not a pretty solution and you won't be able to sleeve them, however it will give you the most expedient of results. Either it will or it won't work. The adapter cable is color coded so you need the yellow and the black leads on the flat side of the connection. Those are the +12v and the ground immediately next to that. Clip the other leads after those short to the connector. They aren't needed and will be made dead when clipped. Then plug your power in. :thumb:
> 
> Good luck for the most positive of results. I look forward to reading how this mod came along. :cheers:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Leads are extended (in a hacky way) from my first desk build. Was before I had a pin crimper so I cut the ends off and soldered more wire in between the pump and the ends. So going to remove the wire completely and solder new leads to the pump and just crimp sata pins on the ends and plug it into a sata connector.


----------



## Ceadderman

crafty615 said:


> Leads are extended (in a hacky way) from my first desk build. Was before I had a pin crimper so I cut the ends off and soldered more wire in between the pump and the ends. So going to remove the wire completely and solder new leads to the pump and just crimp sata pins on the ends and plug it into a sata connector.


You won't be able to do it cleanly. The connector you need isn't available on the market. So you will need an adapter cable to scavenge for parts. I looked using google and the female connector is simply not sold by itself nor are the pins. 

But if you purchase a Moles to SATA extension(Female) you can clip three of the leads and solder the yellow and it's ground neighbor to the points that will be vacated by the original wires. Just make sure to use heat sink clips otherwise you could damage your pump.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## crafty615

Ceadderman said:


> You won't be able to do it cleanly. The connector you need isn't available on the market. So you will need an adapter cable to scavenge for parts. I looked using google and the female connector is simply not sold by itself nor are the pins.
> 
> But if you purchase a Moles to SATA extension(Female) you can clip three of the leads and solder the yellow and it's ground neighbor to the points that will be vacated by the original wires. Just make sure to use heat sink clips otherwise you could damage your pump.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Did not realize they weren't sold anywhere. But wouldn't I need a male terminal? I thought female was on the PSU side.


----------



## iamjanco

Ceadderman said:


> You won't be able to do it cleanly. The connector you need isn't available on the market. So you will need an adapter cable to scavenge for parts. I looked using google and the female connector is simply not sold by itself nor are the pins.
> 
> But if you purchase a Moles to SATA extension (Female) you can clip three of the leads and solder the yellow and it's ground neighbor to the points that will be vacated by the original wires. Just make sure to use heat sink clips otherwise you could damage your pump.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


That's not entirely true. While it might be simpler (and cheaper because of the tools's price) to do it the way you recommended, the needed terminals, housings, and even the official crimp tool are available from various Molex distributors:

*Molex 67581-0010* - 1.27mm (.050"") Pitch Serial ATA Crimp Terminal for Power Cable Receptacle, Gold (Au) Flash Plating

*Molex 67582-0000* - 1.27mm Pitch Crimp Housing for Serial ATA Power Cable Receptacle, 15 Circuits, Black

*MDPC-X also sells them* as a kit (housings with terminals); as does Mod-One, though Mod-One breaks them out into separate parts (*housings*, including compression type; *terminals*).

*Molex 63823-9900* - Official Molex Hand Crimp Tool For SATA Power Cable Crimp Receptacles

*MDCP-X's CTX3* (alternative, less expensive crimping tool; not tested by me)


----------



## Ceadderman

iamjanco said:


> That's not entirely true. While it might be simpler (and cheaper because of the tools's price) to do it the way you recommended, the needed terminals, housings, and even the official crimp tool are available from various Molex distributors:
> 
> *Molex 67581-0010* - 1.27mm (.050"") Pitch Serial ATA Crimp Terminal for Power Cable Receptacle, Gold (Au) Flash Plating
> 
> *Molex 67582-0000* - 1.27mm Pitch Crimp Housing for Serial ATA Power Cable Receptacle, 15 Circuits, Black
> 
> *MDPC-X also sells them* as a kit (housings with terminals); as does Mod-One, though Mod-One breaks them out into separate parts (*housings*, including compression type; *terminals*).
> 
> *Molex 63823-9900* - Official Molex Hand Crimp Tool For SATA Power Cable Crimp Receptacles
> 
> *MDCP-X's CTX3* (alternative, less expensive crimping tool; not tested by me)


Let me restate this again. Maybe you're getting your Male/Female mixed up.

Yes all *those* parts are available. But none of them connect without the help of an adapter which is available but this piece...



Is the one you cannot get parts for. It is the cleanest connection that does not require parts for. It's also the one that most if not all AIO systems use to connect SATA power.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## iamjanco

Ceadderman said:


> Let me restate this again. Maybe you're getting your Male/Female mixed up.
> 
> Yes all *those* parts are available. But none of them connect without the help of an adapter which is available but this piece...
> 
> 
> 
> Is the one you cannot get parts for. It is the cleanest connection that does not require parts for. It's also the one that most if not all AIO systems use to connect SATA power.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Ah, my apologies then, I stand corrected.


----------



## toolmaker03

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK8SYCW/ref=psdc_3015394011_t2_B000YJMB5Y


$4.63 done for you.


https://www.amazon.com/Sata-LP4-Pin..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WE5P2JBQVKY1JEB24X9X


personally I like these for $6.41 it makes a little nicer looking connection.


----------



## Ceadderman

toolmaker03 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK8SYCW/ref=psdc_3015394011_t2_B000YJMB5Y
> 
> 
> $4.63 done for you.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Sata-LP4-Pin..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WE5P2JBQVKY1JEB24X9X
> 
> 
> personally I like these for $6.41 it makes a little nicer looking connection.


He wishes to do away with Moles. Not incorporate it.

Newegg has a 12" unit like the first one you posted for a reasonable price which has roughly similar length to the stock cabling from the pump. That's the one I would use. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## crafty615

Ceadderman said:


> He wishes to do away with Moles. Not incorporate it.
> 
> Newegg has a 12" unit like the first one you posted for a reasonable price which has roughly similar length to the stock cabling from the pump. That's the one I would use.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


If it is the right length then I can cut off the molex and solder the leads to the pump internals. That would look as clean as if I was able to get the terminals and housing and do the crimps myself. Sounds like this is going to work out nicely.


----------



## emsj86

Caselabs SM8 (outside painted satin black) acrylic floor, Tempered Glass side panel mod.


----------



## Zammin

emsj86 said:


> Caselabs SM8 (outside painted satin black) acrylic floor, Tempered Glass side panel mod.


Wow that looks fantastic. Love the way the UV lights up the coolant. Kinda wish I bought the SMA8 when they were still in production, they look like an awesome case.


----------



## TeslaHUN

I have 2 x external 400*200 mm radiators (https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...ctive/12851/phobya-xtreme-400-v.2-full-copper)
Do you guys think it will be enough with low rpm fans ? 4x 20cm CM Masterfan .
I have 8700k @ 5ghz and 1080TI overclocked . 


I can add a 420 radiator inside my case if needed , do i need it or im OK with 2x 400 rads ?


----------



## Zammin

TeslaHUN said:


> I have 2 x external 400*200 mm radiators (https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...ctive/12851/phobya-xtreme-400-v.2-full-copper)
> Do you guys think it will be enough with low rpm fans ? 4x 20cm CM Masterfan .
> I have 8700k @ 5ghz and 1080TI overclocked .
> 
> 
> I can add a 420 radiator inside my case if needed , do i need it or im OK with 2x 400 rads ?


I would think that will be plenty, especially outside the case. I'm also running an [email protected] and a Strix 1080Ti OC, but on two 360mm radiators. If you have another 480mm radiator you may as well use that as well if you can, I always try to squeeze as much radiator in as possible. Even if it's overkill you could just run the fans slow and quiet.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Zammin said:


> I would think that will be plenty, especially outside the case. I'm also running an [email protected] and a Strix 1080Ti OC, but on two 360mm radiators. If you have another 480mm radiator you may as well use that as well if you can, I always try to squeeze as much radiator in as possible. Even if it's overkill you could just run the fans slow and quiet.


4x 20cm fans are quiet already , adding a 420 rad with 3x 140 fan would just increase the noise level. Thats why im asking i need the extra rad space or not .
The case has 3x 140mm intake , and im planning 3x 140exhaust only if CPU is at 60+Celsius . Idle it will be only 3x intake fan 0 exhaust , but if i add a 420 rad inside ,it means i must have the 3exhaust always ON ,even at idle.


----------



## Zammin

TeslaHUN said:


> 4x 20cm fans are quiet already , adding a 420 rad with 3x 140 fan would just increase the noise level. Thats why im asking i need the extra rad space or not .
> The case has 3x 140mm intake , and im planning 3x 140exhaust only if CPU is at 60+Celsius . Idle it will be only 3x intake fan 0 exhaust , but if i add a 420 rad inside ,it means i must have the 3exhaust always ON ,even at idle.


That depends on the fans and software you are using though. There are a few options but I'm using iCUE and a commander pro to control my ML120 Pro radiator fans based on water temp. In iCUE you can set the fans to shut off under a certain temp as part of a custom curve. A few good 120mm fans can run as slow as 300-400RPM in which case you wouldn't hear them, but to answer you question directly, I would think the two external rads would be fine. But in saying that I have never used 400x200mm rads before. Hope this helps.


----------



## gree

if you put the rad fans to exhuast, can they exhaust case air as well? or only the heat coming off the rad


----------



## dwolvin

It can, but your water temps will be a bit higher, since the radiator will be pulling the warmed up air from the computer case through it. probably would not be much, but traditional wisdom is to only pull 'cold' air through the radiator to improve the function of the loop.


----------



## gree

dwolvin said:


> It can, but your water temps will be a bit higher, since the radiator will be pulling the warmed up air from the computer case through it. probably would not be much, but traditional wisdom is to only pull 'cold' air through the radiator to improve the function of the loop.


my case only fits 360mm of rad so i was going to put a nzxt X72 in there, and use an air cooled card


----------



## dwolvin

With any decent modern fan you can just use the rad as an intake wherever it is- even the top. It will just blow out wherever there is an exit- put a much exhaust as you ca to help, but don't worry too much. Look at the path from the intake to the exhaust, and try to get a bit of fresh air to the air cooled card and test from there. I did that (~ish) in a different case to start, and it worked fine. Second loop in a Fractal Define XL required a fan blowing up from behind the lower hard drive in order to get air to the video card. Depends on the case!


----------



## gree

its an open-air chasis with 3 top fans (negative pressure).

i've had the case for a while with just a basic intel cooler on the 5930k and three vardar 3000rpms fans but i want to finally get better cooling so i can try to OC. (i tried a custom loop but it wasnt for me and i never was able to finish)


i want to try the NXZT x72 for the cpu and maybe an r9 nano.

heres the same case on pcpartpicker with a 240 in it. so u can see how bad the air flow is.


----------



## TeslaHUN

dwolvin said:


> It can, but your water temps will be a bit higher, since the radiator will be pulling the warmed up air from the computer case through it. probably would not be much, but traditional wisdom is to only pull 'cold' air through the radiator to improve the function of the loop.


No offense but i dont think thats true at all.
If u have custom loop its most likely a VGA +CPU under water ,nothing else inside a case is making heat,or very minimal . 
How on earth an exhaust rad/fan would pull warmed air , since the inside temp in a case is max 1-2C warmer then the intake temp ? 
What is gonna "warm up" the air inside ? HDD ( 5W ) / RAM (2w/stick ) ,motherboard ? C'mon its not end of the world if a rad is exhausting.


----------



## toolmaker03

TeslaHUN said:


> No offense but i dont think thats true at all.
> If u have custom loop its most likely a VGA +CPU under water ,nothing else inside a case is making heat,or very minimal .
> How on earth an exhaust rad/fan would pull warmed air , since the inside temp in a case is max 1-2C warmer then the intake temp ?
> What is gonna "warm up" the air inside ? HDD ( 5W ) / RAM (2w/stick ) ,motherboard ? C'mon its not end of the world if a rad is exhausting.


well two things you forgot about that do actually heat up the inside of a PC case, one is the VRMS on the motherboard, at load with water cooling, and a fan blowing on them, will be 55C or higher at load. plus the power supply is a major heat source inside of a PC case. so this heat being produced inside of a PC case, in your opinion, should be fine if existed through the radiators?


----------



## icehotshot

Here is my first custom watercooling setup.

XSPC RayStorm Pro X4 Photon AX240 WaterCooling Kit
2 X Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 240 radiator
Ghetto Rigging Zip Ties - These are explained in the thread I made

5820k @ 4.5ghz 1.347v


----------



## TeslaHUN

toolmaker03 said:


> well two things you forgot about that do actually heat up the inside of a PC case, one is the VRMS on the motherboard, at load with water cooling, and a fan blowing on them, will be 55C or higher at load. plus the power supply is a major heat source inside of a PC case. so this heat being produced inside of a PC case, in your opinion, should be fine if existed through the radiators?


VRMs maybe add 1C to inside temp, and since psu has its own fan and exhaust at back, it wont warm up the case at all . 
So in total u have like 3C warmer air going through the rad in exhaust configuration , then fresh air intake to rad and dump all the heat inside your case . If you have big enough rad ,i dont see why 1C water temp would matter . 

Yes if you have only 1x 240 or 360 rad for CPU +VGA then i would use intake fans on rad ,every Celsius count in that small surface.
This is my opinion , ppl do what they want anyway .


----------



## sinnedone

TeslaHUN said:


> dwolvin said:
> 
> 
> 
> It can, but your water temps will be a bit higher, since the radiator will be pulling the warmed up air from the computer case through it. probably would not be much, but traditional wisdom is to only pull 'cold' air through the radiator to improve the function of the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> No offense but i dont think thats true at all.
> If u have custom loop its most likely a VGA +CPU under water ,nothing else inside a case is making heat,or very minimal .
> How on earth an exhaust rad/fan would pull warmed air , since the inside temp in a case is max 1-2C warmer then the intake temp ?
> What is gonna "warm up" the air inside ? HDD ( 5W ) / RAM (2w/stick ) ,motherboard ? C'mon its not end of the world if a rad is exhausting.
Click to expand...

There are a lot more variables than that.
-poor airflow case
-not enough rad space
-higher voltage overclocks
-fan speed

All those things will affect air inside the case for another rad to push through. Heatsoak of internal components is another variable, it really depends on slot of things and isn't as clean and cut as you are thinking.


----------



## TeslaHUN

sinnedone said:


> There are a lot more variables than that.
> -poor airflow case
> -not enough rad space
> -higher voltage overclocks
> -fan speed
> 
> All those things will affect air inside the case for another rad to push through. Heatsoak of internal components is another variable, it really depends on slot of things and isn't as clean and cut as you are thinking.


Sorry but for me its clean that 5Watt ram and 5 watt HDD/ssd + 15W motherboard will not dump 100+W heat inside the case .
But you do what u want ,no problem ! I just dont unerstand why ppl claim its so bad to exhaust through radiator, but cant proove it with data or at least tell a solid theory why.


----------



## sinnedone

I never claimed it was "so bad". All I said is there are a lot more variables than what you are making it out to be.. 

All these boards with horrible heatsinks that reach almost 100c do make a difference in the temperatures of air inside the case. You ever try to heavily overclock RAM? That gets really got too. Add poor airflow or low fan speed and eventually you'll have a heavy heatsoak situation in poorly ventilated cases.



I myself run at least 1 radiator as exhaust so it's not "that bad". Depending on your situation it might be.


----------



## Ceadderman

gree said:


> its an open-air chasis with 3 top fans (negative pressure).
> 
> i've had the case for a while with just a basic intel cooler on the 5930k and three vardar 3000rpms fans but i want to finally get better cooling so i can try to OC. (i tried a custom loop but it wasnt for me and i never was able to finish)
> 
> 
> i want to try the NXZT x72 for the cpu and maybe an r9 nano.
> 
> heres the same case on pcpartpicker with a 240 in it. so u can see how bad the air flow is.


Yikees that isn't alot of space. The thermal threshold looks taxed with that open bodied GPU stuffed in there. 

Exhaust is not bad when your system is in a case with good airflow(mine is a modded HAF932 with no drive racks. Lots of airflow in the older cases) but in this case it's severely lacking. 

When the PSU is mounted with the grill facing out in a properly vented case the amount of heat dumped into the case is meh. PSU really doesn't add that much heat since it's internally cooled unless you have a fan-less unit. 

I have run Exhaust in my 932. But I also had my 200(before mod) fan mounted up front as Intake and a 140 mounted as Exhaust. Now my 360 is mounted to the 120 mount up front in Intake and I will be getting two more 360s. One for the top and one for the side to mount opposite my current Rad. They will both be Intake with a bank of fans blowing air between them. A lot of overkill I know but I like overkill. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## gree

its a showcase case, so thats just how the psu is.

thats an example pic, mine has a 1050 ti itx (https://www.msi.com/Graphics-card/GeForce-GTX-1050-Ti-4G-OC) and a intel stock cooler. 

i was showing the cooler space (360). hoping 360mm is a big enough rad to OC with.

for the gpu the 1050 ti only pulls power from the mobo so its not that hot, but i was thinking of switching it to a r9 nano (would prefer a fury x and a 240mm on the cpu but heard 240 isnt enough for a 5930k)


heres a pic from Lian Li's website


----------



## Streetdragon

sinnedone said:


> I never claimed it was "so bad". All I said is there are a lot more variables than what you are making it out to be..
> 
> All these boards with horrible heatsinks that reach almost 100c do make a difference in the temperatures of air inside the case. You ever try to heavily overclock RAM? That gets really got too. Add poor airflow or low fan speed and eventually you'll have a heavy heatsoak situation in poorly ventilated cases.
> 
> 
> 
> I myself run at least 1 radiator as exhaust so it's not "that bad". Depending on your situation it might be.


additional to that, the backside of a watercooled GPU still load a lot of heat into the case. like mine 1080TI(glued heatsinks on the backplate. A lot of heatsinks) with a fan blowing at them.

Sure at the end the waterloop will be 2-3° hotter with exhaust rads than with input. But every °C counts for me :thumb:


----------



## Ceadderman

Streetdragon said:


> additional to that, the backside of a watercooled GPU still load a lot of heat into the case. like mine 1080TI(glued heatsinks on the backplate. A lot of heatsinks) with a fan blowing at them.
> 
> Sure at the end the waterloop will be 2-3° hotter with exhaust rads than with input. But every °C counts for me :thumb:


Backplates are predominately dressup items. They do nothing for cooling the backside of the GPU. Water cooling keeps the GPU temps in check relatively well enough that any heat put off the other side of the card is negligible at worst. 

So it's not as bad as you're making it to be. Yes heat dissipates on the back side of the card but it's manageable and doesn't affect the MB as heat rises. It doesn't move laterally off the back of the card.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Ironsmack

Ceadderman said:


> Backplates are predominately dressup items. They do nothing for cooling the backside of the GPU. Water cooling keeps the GPU temps in check relatively well enough that any heat put off the other side of the card is negligible at worst.
> 
> So it's not as bad as you're making it to be. Yes heat dissipates on the back side of the card but it's manageable and doesn't affect the MB as heat rises. It doesn't move laterally off the back of the card.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:




And to prove your point, the backplates is usually warm to warmer temp that you can put your finger on it. 

A notice a lot of people have this view that WC temps are quite similar to AC when it comes VRM's, component heat dissipation, etc. 

Its not if you have enough thermal capacity to cool your components. At best, the air in your case is warmer.


----------



## Zammin

I think there are some exceptions with back plates, although small. When looking at Tech Power Up's GPU block testing there were a few that were a few instances where the GPU backplate reduced the GPU core temperature by around 0.5C. Negligible yes, but it's still something.










Also when it comes to VRM temps it looks like some back plates do help quite a lot, notably the Aquacomputer Kryographics w/ active back plate.


----------



## TahoeDust

This is my work in progress and my first try at custom water. Waiting on 9900k and 2080ti FTW3/waterblock....


----------



## Zammin

TahoeDust said:


> This is my work in progress and my first try at custom water. Waiting on 9900k and 2080ti FTW3/waterblock....


Very nice. That Velocity block looks great. Looking forward to receiving mine.


----------



## pewpewlazer

Stuffed a Nemesis 420GTS XFlow in my new Fractal Design R6. Bit tight, but it works.


----------



## gree

anybody here play with the Powercolor vega 56 nano?

https://www.aquatuning.us/water-coo...-eisblock-gpx-a-acetal-amd-rx-vega-m03?c=6470

thinking about putting one a ek mlc loop


----------



## Questors

This thread appears to have lost a lot of steam. 'Spose that's the way it goes sometimes.

I have been dead set against mini builds as I have always thought they look too cluttered. Kind of like someone stuck glue in a bunch of electronics and shoved them inside a small chassis. 

Although I do admit to having a SFF idea (if I, you or they can think it up, someone else can too) like the Louqe Ghost S1 Mk II. Their design is better than the one I penned out a few times and they took theirs to completion. 

What's that got to do with anything? Looking at all the SFF rigs here over time, I decided to buy a Ghost S1 Mk II. In January 2019, it should arrive with the TopHat super-pack I bought with it. I am excited to get on the project and create a custom water loop in the small case. Pics show the internals and the exterior color I choose.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! Keep us lurkers posted! I love the idea of a mini, but hate the extra homework. I just make a basic rig / loop and if it's decent looking I am happy.


----------



## crafty615

Questors said:


> This thread appears to have lost a lot of steam. 'Spose that's the way it goes sometimes.
> 
> I have been dead set against mini builds as I have always thought they look too cluttered. Kind of like someone stuck glue in a bunch of electronics and shoved them inside a small chassis.
> 
> Although I do admit to having a SFF idea (if I, you or they can think it up, someone else can too) like the Louqe Ghost S1 Mk II. Their design is better than the one I penned out a few times and they took theirs to completion.
> 
> What's that got to do with anything? Looking at all the SFF rigs here over time, I decided to buy a Ghost S1 Mk II. In January 2019, it should arrive with the TopHat super-pack I bought with it. I am excited to get on the project and create a custom water loop in the small case. Pics show the internals and the exterior color I choose.


If you decide to do a build log let me know for sure. I love watching SFF custom loop rigs come together


----------



## Da_Obst

May I join the club with my TJ11? 
It's not completely finished yet, but I hope it's enough to show it off anyways.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Da_Obst said:


> May I join the club with my TJ11?
> It's not completely finished yet, but I hope it's enough to show it off anyways.



Nice! Love the unique tube runs too. I can't help thinking that hiding the CPU runs behind the GPU (although it looks very clean) would be even better taken over to fill the area next to them. Either way good job. :thumb:


----------



## dwolvin

That's going to look great- seconded on the runs look really cool! TJ11's were so far ahead of their time.


----------



## Da_Obst

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Nice! Love the unique tube runs too. I can't help thinking that hiding the CPU runs behind the GPU (although it looks very clean) would be even better taken over to fill the area next to them. Either way good job. /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif


Thank you. 🙂 
I will redo the tubes for CPU/GPU when I have some spare time again. This is my first build with hardtubes, so I'm not that happy with how the bends turned out. If you look closely you can see that some of the radii don't match... 

It sure is very hard and very time consuming to get some nice tubes done... 😄



dwolvin said:


> That's going to look great- seconded on the runs look really cool! TJ11's were so far ahead of their time.


Thanks 🙂

I'm all in for Silverstone cases. I had the RV01, the FT02 and now the TJ11. This one I found on Ebay, but I'll get a new one soon because I'm afraid that it won't be available for much time longer. For this mod I didn't want to use a new one because I wasn't sure if my idea with using 180mm rads would work out, so this one is some kind of prototype... ^^


Just in case you want to see even more pictures, I uploaded some to Imgur. Here are the links: 

http://imgur.com/gallery/e5F0hPz

http://imgur.com/gallery/QGWx4Ol


----------



## niklot1981

Beep...


----------



## iamjanco

niklot1981 said:


> Beep...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Very nice! I'm not into rgb myself, but I'd say that's not a bad example of rgb done right. Nice shots, too


----------



## museumman

My little Corsair 250D project :


----------



## Questors

niklot1981 said:


> Beep...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Really like the chromed tube, build looks great. 

I can't go with the thermalfakes though, that's one prejudice I won't let go. Irks me even more that they are still in business and CaseLabs had to close shop.


----------



## crafty615

Ceadderman said:


> He wishes to do away with Moles. Not incorporate it.
> 
> Newegg has a 12" unit like the first one you posted for a reasonable price which has roughly similar length to the stock cabling from the pump. That's the one I would use.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I know this topic is old now but I found these: https://www.moddiy.com/products/SATA-Power-Crimp%2dOn-Male-Connector-(Black).html so could just cut off the molex and crimp this on then pump doesn't need disassembled and soldered and no need for adapter.


----------



## Ceadderman

crafty615 said:


> I know this topic is old now but I found these: https://www.moddiy.com/products/SATA-Power-Crimp%2dOn-Male-Connector-(Black).html so could just cut off the molex and crimp this on then pump doesn't need disassembled and soldered and no need for adapter.


Those would work indeed. Just make sure to connect the correct leads to their appropriate terminals. Should be the ones furthest from the vertical portion of the tab starting with the yellow lead working toward the vertical and ground being the next one.

Those are pretty new connectors. Too bad those aren't end terminals. Maybe moddiy has them. I will take a look and see if maybe I can scare them up. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## looniam

Ceadderman said:


> Those would work indeed. Just make sure to connect the correct leads to their appropriate terminals. Should be the ones furthest from the vertical portion of the tab starting with the yellow lead working toward the vertical and ground being the next one.
> 
> Those are pretty new connectors. Too bad those aren't end terminals. Maybe moddiy has them. I will take a look and see if maybe I can scare them up. :thinking:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


do you mean something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Terminal/dp/B0000AZ6Y3


----------



## Ceadderman

looniam said:


> do you mean something like this?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Terminal/dp/B0000AZ6Y3


No but it would work. Sort of.

It's a point of failure should metal or liquid come in contact with the open connections. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## looniam

Ceadderman said:


> No but it would work. Sort of.
> 
> It's a point of failure should metal or liquid come in contact with the open connections.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


ah, i see. ok. :thumb:


----------



## num1son

niklot1981 said:


> Beep...


Nice photos!


----------



## jagdtigger

Hi all  .

Ive been out of the loop for a while, but is there any soft tubing that wont get discolored and/or cloudy? Im starting to assemble a part's list since i had to change out my GPU... Hardline is nice and all but its a PITA to work with.


----------



## Knoxx29

I use PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT, after 3 years they look the same like first day i bought it.


https://www.overclock.net/forum/27633786-post108782.html


----------



## Knoxx29

I use PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT, after 3 years it looks new like the first day i bought it 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/27633786-post108782.html


----------



## jagdtigger

Great, thanks  . Now the hunt starts for a GPU water block...

/EDIT
It seems im out of luck, only found one cooler but it only cools actively the GPU and based on the image the HBM stacks....
https://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkue...xos-gpx-amd-rx-vega-m05-mit-backplate-schwarz


----------



## dwolvin

The upside to that one is that you will be able to move it to other cards later... What card are you looking to watercool?


----------



## jagdtigger

Its a Sapphire Nitro+ Vega 64 8GB HBM.

/OFF
I already edited the rig in my sig,why it still shows 290x?


----------



## dwolvin

Oh, yeah Vega's are a little harder to find blocks for... Did you look through this list?

https://www.hitzestau.com/waterblocks-for-the-amd-radeon-rx-vega/


----------



## jagdtigger

All of them are for reference design. For instance here is a reference card:
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/images/product_images/popup_images/23669_5.jpg

And from sapphire:
https://img.purch.com/sapphire-rx-v...1NDYzL29yaWdpbmFsL1NjaGVtZS1QQ0ItRnJvbnQuanBn

Its kinda similar but it would be expensive to take a guess......


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Few new things on this build (original build log: https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1633016-dcs4vr-2-0-gallery-build-log-update.html)


----------



## jura11

jagdtigger said:


> Its a Sapphire Nitro+ Vega 64 8GB HBM.
> 
> /OFF
> I already edited the rig in my sig,why it still shows 290x?


Hi there 

I would have look on this WB 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bykski-Water-Block-use-for-Sapphire-Nitro-Radeon-RX-Vega-64-8GB-HBM2-11275-03-40G/32868393119.html

Its Bykski, have used few of Bykski WB like CPU or GPU blocks and no issues


Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Zammin

GraphicsWhore said:


> Few new things on this build


WOW! Very clean build! love all the displays you've got going, and that DS4 controller mount is something I've never seen before. Very unique.


----------



## mouacyk

Fact: The controller is a great heatsink, further reducing the loop temp by another 4C.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Zammin said:


> WOW! Very clean build! love all the displays you've got going, and that DS4 controller mount is something I've never seen before. Very unique.


Thanks. The mount gave me headaches for a while. I had a few designs for how I thought it could work being secured to the case given the lack of space; at one point even considered sending one to a company that custom fabricated PC parts.

Then one night I was just playing with some L brackets. Funny how so often there's a simple solution to a seemingly complicated problem





















mouacyk said:


> Fact: The controller is a great heatsink, further reducing the loop temp by another 4C.


I wish.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Hey guys! Long time no see. I've been away from this community for 4 years after setting up my first water loop and letting it be. Now I'm planning an upgrade and I'm trying to learn the ropes again (it's hard!).

When I bought my first loop I did it through a site called SpecialTech.co.uk. This site doesn't exist anymore. I live in Greece and the domestic shops here (they only two I know of actually) have either no product diversity or extremely overpriced (like +60%) prices.

I'm looking for webshops in Europe that are shipping to Greece. I was happy to find some good deals on Overclockers.co.uk but to my surprise I came to find they don't ship to Greece. Could you point me to some reputable options?

Also quick question, what's the norm in soft tubing right now? Back then it was the Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT without plasticizer. Now it's out of stock everywhere (discontinued it seems).


----------



## Knoxx29

Daredevil 720 said:


> Back then it was the Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT without plasticizer. Now it's out of stock everywhere (discontinued it seems).


Did you try: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/10-16mm-3-8-5-8-tubing


----------



## Daredevil 720

Knoxx29 said:


> Did you try: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/10-16mm-3-8-5-8-tubing


I was looking for the "Onyx Black" color and maybe even 3/8"x1/2" but I'm not going to find it anywhere. I thing I'm going to go with the 3/8"x5/8" EK ZMT tubing. Are they really as hassle free?


----------



## Knoxx29

Daredevil 720 said:


> I was looking for the "Onyx Black" color and maybe even 3/8"x1/2" but I'm not going to find it anywhere. I thing I'm going to go with the 3/8"x5/8" EK ZMT tubing. Are they really as hassle free?


Cant tell you because i have never use EK ZMT tubing, i have always used PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm - Pearl UV Purple


----------



## Daredevil 720

Knoxx29 said:


> Cant tell you because i have never use EK ZMT tubing, i have always used PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm - Pearl UV Purple


I'm just curious, what is your experience with this tubing and (I guess) compression fittings? I had the same tubing at 19/13 size and screwing the compression rings (EK-ACF) was a PITA, almost gave up back then.


----------



## Knoxx29

Daredevil 720 said:


> I'm just curious, what is your experience with this tubing and (I guess) compression fittings? I had the same tubing at 19/13 size and screwing the compression rings (EK-ACF) was a PITA, almost gave up back then.


Well, so far and after years using PrimoChill PrimoFlex i can not say anything negative and till EKWB keeps their doors open and i continue Building PCs those are the Tubing i will buy, yes compression fittings never had issues, If you check here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/27633786-post108782.html
the Tubing you see in the pics are from an old Pc i had and i re-used it because after years they look like brand new from the inside and outside.


----------



## dwolvin

ZMT is pretty forgiving- it's soft and still doesn't collapse when bent is tight bends. I'd still be using it except clear tube fist my current rig better.


----------



## Daredevil 720

Knoxx29 said:


> Well, so far and after years using PrimoChill PrimoFlex i can not say anything negative and till EKWB keeps their doors open and i continue Building PCs those are the Tubing i will buy, yes compression fittings never had issues, If you check here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/27633786-post108782.html
> the Tubing you see in the pics are from an old Pc i had and i re-used it because after years they look like brand new from the inside and outside.


I've had a great experience using these tubes as well, regarding durability. Opened my loop after 4 years of straight use with no maintenance, no gunk! Too bad I can't find the ones I want.



dwolvin said:


> ZMT is pretty forgiving- it's soft and still doesn't collapse when bent is tight bends. I'd still be using it except clear tube fist my current rig better.


EK ZMT it is then.


----------



## jagdtigger

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> I would have look on this WB
> 
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Byk...ega-64-8GB-HBM2-11275-03-40G/32868393119.html
> 
> Its Bykski, have used few of Bykski WB like CPU or GPU blocks and no issues
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Bookmarked it, thanks  .


Well this aint gonna be cheap...
2x10 feet tube
3xd5 pump(because of the height difference between the PC and rads)
GPU block
MO-RA 360 rad
4xphoby 180mm fan


----------



## GraphicsWhore

jagdtigger said:


> jura11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I would have look on this WB
> 
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Byk...ega-64-8GB-HBM2-11275-03-40G/32868393119.html
> 
> Its Bykski, have used few of Bykski WB like CPU or GPU blocks and no issues
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura
> 
> 
> 
> Bookmarked it, thanks /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif .
> 
> 
> Well this aint gonna be cheap...
> 2x10 feet tube
> 3xd5 pump(because of the height difference between the PC and rads)
> GPU block
> MO-RA 360 rad
> 4xphoby 180mm fan
Click to expand...

Wait what? You’re going to run a triple pump setup? Is your case 10ft tall?


----------



## taowulf

GraphicsWhore said:


> Wait what? You’re going to run a triple pump setup? Is your case 10ft tall?


Sure, he could run two in case one quits, but D5s are reliable enough to manage with 1. especially if they are running at 80% or less. I run my D5 around most of the time and that is probably more than a 360, GPU and CPU block needs to function well.

does head pressure even stack in series with water pumps?


----------



## jura11

jagdtigger said:


> Bookmarked it, thanks  .
> 
> 
> Well this aint gonna be cheap...
> 2x10 feet tube
> 3xd5 pump(because of the height difference between the PC and rads)
> GPU block
> MO-RA 360 rad
> 4xphoby 180mm fan


Hi there

I would probably go route of the EK ZMT or EPDM tubing or Tygon A-60-G which is same as EK ZMT just due they're usually last bit longer than any tubing

10 feet is around 3m,which is around same like in my case I do use, I used on my build inside the Caselabs M8 2m I think there I'm running 4x 360mm radiators plus MO-ra3 360mm where I have attached 2* Barrow QDC and I think MO-ra3 is around 1.5m away from my case and I have tried like 2*D5 and EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition and flow has been in 122-137LPH with D5 pumps running at full speed and DDC as well, right now running XSPC D5 Vario with Monsoon MMRS and two DDC pumps(EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition and Barrow DDC 17W) and flow is at 155LPH as max right now, with single D5 pump my flow is around 75LPH

Maybe due this I would probably recommend rather DDC pumps more than D5 pumps

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Daredevil 720

Another question over here. I have a couple of 1lt bottles of Mayhems X1 Clear coolant which I bought back in 2014. On the label they mention a typical shelf life of 2 years after bottling. Should I abide to this and buy new coolant or would it be OK?

Also what would be better, a 40mm thick rad in push/pull or a 60mm thick rad in push? My little research shows the push/pull config on the 40mm is better, I just don't like the aesthetics.


----------



## crafty615

Daredevil 720 said:


> Another question over here. I have a couple of 1lt bottles of Mayhems X1 Clear coolant which I bought back in 2014. On the label they mention a typical shelf life of 2 years after bottling. Should I abide to this and buy new coolant or would it be OK?
> 
> Also what would be better, a 40mm thick rad in push/pull or a 60mm thick rad in push? My little research shows the push/pull config on the 40mm is better, I just don't like the aesthetics.


Everything I've seen suggests that push/pull only really matters on thicker rads to help get air through. slim rads don't benefit from it hardly.


----------



## Daredevil 720

crafty615 said:


> Everything I've seen suggests that push/pull only really matters on thicker rads to help get air through. slim rads don't benefit from it hardly.


You're right. After reading much on this I came to the conclusion that you get ~15% more cooling at the same RPMs which means more noise. If you drop the RPMs by a couple hundred for same noise you get pretty much the same cooling (maybe a slight improvement on thick rads).

A thicker rad is the same or better and quieter.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all, 

These are some pics of my build after moving from a CaseLabs BH2 to this Fractal Define R6 one week ago:











I am very happy with the final result, especially in silence/performance.

Cheers!


----------



## crafty615

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all,
> 
> These are some pics of my build after moving from a CaseLabs BH2 to this Fractal Define R6 one week ago:
> 
> ...
> 
> I am very happy with the final result, especially in silence/performance.
> 
> Cheers!


Looks awesome! But how do you access the drain valve if it's behind the reservoir?


----------



## MoDeNa

crafty615 said:


> Looks awesome! But how do you access the drain valve if it's behind the reservoir?


Removing the back side panel, very easy.


----------



## jagdtigger

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> I would probably go route of the EK ZMT or EPDM tubing or Tygon A-60-G which is same as EK ZMT just due they're usually last bit longer than any tubing
> 
> 10 feet is around 3m,which is around same like in my case I do use, I used on my build inside the Caselabs M8 2m I think there I'm running 4x 360mm radiators plus MO-ra3 360mm where I have attached 2* Barrow QDC and I think MO-ra3 is around 1.5m away from my case and I have tried like 2*D5 and EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition and flow has been in 122-137LPH with D5 pumps running at full speed and DDC as well, right now running XSPC D5 Vario with Monsoon MMRS and two DDC pumps(EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition and Barrow DDC 17W) and flow is at 155LPH as max right now, with single D5 pump my flow is around 75LPH
> 
> Maybe due this I would probably recommend rather DDC pumps more than D5 pumps
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


My current setup contains 2 DDC with a dual pump top(aquacomputer maybe) but they are making some irritating noise while running... Plus this is just a sketch so i can estimate how much i need t save up for this.


----------



## crafty615

MoDeNa said:


> Removing the back side panel, very easy.


I see. From the pictures it just looks like a tight squeeze to get there but that much just be the angle of the picture.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Do you guys think 2x D5 in series (on 3/5 speed each ) will be enough for decent flow rate ? Or i will need to use them on higher speed.

1cpu block +1 FC VGA block + 3 x 400mm radiator
https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...ctive/12851/phobya-xtreme-400-v.2-full-copper


----------



## GraphicsWhore

TeslaHUN said:


> Do you guys think 2x D5 in series (on 3/5 speed each ) will be enough for decent flow rate ? Or i will need to use them on higher speed.
> 
> 1cpu block +1 FC VGA block + 3 x 400mm radiator
> https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...ctive/12851/phobya-xtreme-400-v.2-full-copper


Two pumps and 1200mm of rads for two blocks.

Are some of you in some kind of secret competition for most overkill setup ever? I don’t get it.


----------



## TeslaHUN

GraphicsWhore said:


> Two pumps and 1200mm of rads for two blocks.
> 
> Are some of you in some kind of secret competition for most overkill setup ever? I don’t get it.


The most important thing for me is silence , in total 6x 200mm fan on 3 rad at low rpm(3-400 rpm ) is inaudible at load ,and no sound in idle (fans can be stopped at certain temp ,if u have enough rad surface ) . I can guarantee u cant cool 450W ([email protected] 5,1 + 1080ti @ 2050 ) with 360 rads in silence


----------



## jura11

jagdtigger said:


> My current setup contains 2 DDC with a dual pump top(aquacomputer maybe) but they are making some irritating noise while running... Plus this is just a sketch so i can estimate how much i need t save up for this.



Hi there 

My both DDC pumps are very quiet, although they're in pedestal and I can't hear them with fans spinning at 700-800RPM,both pumps are running at full speed 

You will see there, what best way to be, I would keep DDC and if that's the case I would add D5 to loop which would give you good flow rate 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

TeslaHUN said:


> Do you guys think 2x D5 in series (on 3/5 speed each ) will be enough for decent flow rate ? Or i will need to use them on higher speed.
> 
> 1cpu block +1 FC VGA block + 3 x 400mm radiator
> https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...ctive/12851/phobya-xtreme-400-v.2-full-copper


Hi there 

Not sure how restrictive Phobya Xtreme 400 it is, but from earlier reviews looks like is not so restrictive as other radiators 

Have look with 4*360mm radiators plus MO-ra3 360mm on single XSPC D5 my flow is around 75LPH, with two D5 flow raise to 112LPH with both pumps running at max speed 


Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## TeslaHUN

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> Not sure how restrictive Phobya Xtreme 400 it is, but from earlier reviews looks like is not so restrictive as other radiators
> 
> Have look with 4*360mm radiators plus MO-ra3 360mm on single XSPC D5 my flow is around 75LPH, with two D5 flow raise to 112LPH with both pumps running at max speed
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


According to this review the extreme400 isnt flow restrictive at all . 
https://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserk...t-phobya-xtreme-400-radiator?showall=&start=3
Btw 4*360 + mora 360 wow thats a lot of rad  I'd like to see few picture about ur system


----------



## GraphicsWhore

TeslaHUN said:


> The most important thing for me is silence , in total 6x 200mm fan on 3 rad at low rpm(3-400 rpm ) is inaudible at load ,and no sound in idle (fans can be stopped at certain temp ,if u have enough rad surface ) . I can guarantee u cant cool 450W ([email protected] 5,1 + 1080ti @ 2050 ) with 360 rads in silence


Sounds like you and I are the same in terms of noise level. I'm obsessed with having the quietest possible build even though I wear noise-cancelling headphones most of the time so I wouldn't hear it even if it was loud.

But I'm cooling a 2080Ti @ 2130 and a 7700k @ 5 with a single 360 rad and fans at 1000 RPM. Other than the coil whine from the card it's basically inaudible. 

Still, I get your point. If you're going that low on RPM then noise isn't an issue.


----------



## jagdtigger

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> My both DDC pumps are very quiet, although they're in pedestal and I can't hear them with fans spinning at 700-800RPM,both pumps are running at full speed


Well good for you:




(Turn the volume up, for some reason its very quiet on the vid....)


----------



## broodro0ster

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all,
> 
> These are some pics of my build after moving from a CaseLabs BH2 to this Fractal Define R6 one week ago:
> 
> I am very happy with the final result, especially in silence/performance.
> 
> Cheers!


That's a very nice setup! Is that 14 or 16mm tubing?


----------



## MoDeNa

broodro0ster said:


> That's a very nice setup! Is that 14 or 16mm tubing?


Hi broodro0ster! Thank you very much, it is 16mm tube.


----------



## Ashcroft

GraphicsWhore said:


> Sounds like you and I are the same in terms of noise level. I'm obsessed with having the quietest possible build even though I wear noise-cancelling headphones most of the time so I wouldn't hear it even if it was loud.
> 
> But I'm cooling a 2080Ti @ 2130 and a 7700k @ 5 with a single 360 rad and fans at 1000 RPM. Other than the coil whine from the card it's basically inaudible.
> 
> Still, I get your point. If you're going that low on RPM then noise isn't an issue.


Would you mind sharing your temps with that setup?

What case, Gaming temps in different games, idle/browsing temps etc would be great. As much detail as you could be bothered with.

I used to run something similar and its surprising how many people will say its impossible or a bad idea. It would be handy to have more examples of real world results.


----------



## jura11

TeslaHUN said:


> According to this review the extreme400 isnt flow restrictive at all .
> https://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserk...t-phobya-xtreme-400-radiator?showall=&start=3
> Btw 4*360 + mora 360 wow thats a lot of rad  I'd like to see few picture about ur system



Hi there 

Yes I have seen this review and wanted to post link to this, from reviews looks like is less restrictive than my MO-ra3 

Here are older pictures of my loop, switched from white tubing back to EK ZMT and switched from X99 Extreme6 to X99 Extreme WS which have more PCI_E slots and switched again from Koolance QD3 to Barrow QDC which are not on the pictures




























When outside will be better weather and have finally home RTX 2080 Ti then I will post complete loop with MO-ra3 

Loop is not finished, still waiting on RTX 2080Ti and probably will be getting Heatkiller IV Pro as well, current Aquacomputer Kryos is great, great upgrade from EK Supermacy EVO and not sure if its worth getting Heatkiller IV Pro as I'm very happy with Kryos 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Inelastic

Daredevil 720 said:


> Hey guys! Long time no see. I've been away from this community for 4 years after setting up my first water loop and letting it be. Now I'm planning an upgrade and I'm trying to learn the ropes again (it's hard!).
> 
> When I bought my first loop I did it through a site called SpecialTech.co.uk. This site doesn't exist anymore. I live in Greece and the domestic shops here (they only two I know of actually) have either no product diversity or extremely overpriced (like +60%) prices.
> 
> I'm looking for webshops in Europe that are shipping to Greece. I was happy to find some good deals on Overclockers.co.uk but to my surprise I came to find they don't ship to Greece. Could you point me to some reputable options?
> 
> Also quick question, what's the norm in soft tubing right now? Back then it was the Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT without plasticizer. Now it's out of stock everywhere (discontinued it seems).


Can you order it from Primochill directly? I just looked at their website and they have it all and in stock.


----------



## DevilDinosaur

I am about 2 weeks away from summer and recently had a taste of what is to come with a little heatwave. It showed that my overclock was not stable so I treated my ryzen friend to a water cooler. I have never had one before, always used air. It got me stable and an extra 100Mhz so I am happy. 

All your custom rigs look awesome.


----------



## THC Butterz

I made the jump from soft tube to hardline, my first hard loop, could have been better and ill probably eventually change out some pieces, but here is a pic of before and some after


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Ashcroft said:


> Would you mind sharing your temps with that setup?
> 
> What case, Gaming temps in different games, idle/browsing temps etc would be great. As much detail as you could be bothered with.
> 
> I used to run something similar and its surprising how many people will say its impossible or a bad idea. It would be handy to have more examples of real world results.


A single 360 is not going to maximize cooling in any scenario but it's obviously not impossible nor a bad idea - not sure what the hell those people are talking about. I've been running this setup since June of 2017 and it is one of the most stable rigs I've ever built (typical Windows B.S. notwithstanding).

Case is a Thermaltake Core P5. 

GPU temps vary. For my regular gaming OC which peaks at 2100 core (averaging ~2085) and 8000 memory, as an example Forza Horizon 4 can run forever and sits in mid-40s. Extended sessions in Project Cars 2 VR (with max VR settings driving a VIVE Pro), or benchmarks like FireStrike and TimeSpy (which I use a slightly different OC that maxes out at 2160 core), I can hit low 50's. Yesterday played BFV (3440x1440/Ultra/DXR Ultra) for a while and hit 52.

If it's just browsing or anything that isn't running a 3D application, temps stay around ambient which is normally like 32.

CPU @ 5Ghz on load hits the 80's. Recently I decided to bring it down to 4.8 doing some other testing and it's 70's.

The whole temps vs noise vs build complexity is obviously a matter of preference. My sweet spot just requires decent temps and favors minimal noise so this is where I've ended up.

I'm actually planning to go to a 480mm radiator in a few months when I switch to a 9-series (likely 9900K) but I'm going to continue to use my quiet edition Corsair fans. I may forego higher OC to try and run the fans at 800rpm if the performance is acceptable.


----------



## TeslaHUN

I have 2 *420 rad wich i dont use . I could install them externally on the side of my desk ,and connect to my interal loop by QDC . But i dont wanna increase the sound level, so i would use 1-1 14cm low rpm fan on each rad . Is it good idea ,or it wont make any difference in temps ??
Inside of a pc case it makes sense to use passive rad , since the air pressure inside is forcing air through the passive rads , but im not sure its worth externally . (well maybe if the rad is horizontal, so the heat can rise up ,but i can mount them only vertical on my desk )

Or i can sell the 2 420 rad + my 6 BQ SW3 fan and buy 1 mo-ra3 rad + 1 20cm fan on the center of the big rad


----------



## Daredevil 720

Daredevil 720 said:


> Another question over here. I have a couple of 1lt bottles of Mayhems X1 Clear coolant which I bought back in 2014. On the label they mention a typical shelf life of 2 years after bottling. Should I abide to this and buy new coolant or would it be OK?


Any input? Thanks!


----------



## Barefooter

Daredevil 720 said:


> Any input? Thanks!


It might be ok, but personally I would not want to risk gunking up my system.

That's my :2cents:


----------



## jura11

Daredevil 720 said:


> Any input? Thanks!


Hi there 

I would ask [email protected] if its OK but if bottle is not or hasn't been opened then you should be OK there 

But still ask [email protected] first there

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Agenesis

Are the coolstream radiators unreliable as I read? There seems to be constant threads popping up about them leaking after a few months.


----------



## jura11

Agenesis said:


> Are the coolstream radiators unreliable as I read? There seems to be constant threads popping up about them leaking after a few months.


Hi there 

My XE360 started to leak after I think 1 year or more, no punctures etc 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Agenesis

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> My XE360 started to leak after I think 1 year or more, no punctures etc
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Damn, and here I have this bargain bin xspc rad still working after 8 years. Shame, EK rads look so good.


----------



## MNMadman

Agenesis said:


> Are the coolstream radiators unreliable as I read? There seems to be constant threads popping up about them leaking after a few months.


I have a PE 240 and PE 360 with no issues after more than a year.


----------



## DarthBaggins

My PE360 has had zero issues and was relatively clean.


----------



## Zammin

My XE 360 is going fine but I haven't had it for a year yet. It was dirty as hell though. Either that or my XSPC radiator was and it moved all it's dirt into the XE rad lol (they are directly linked to each other, the XSPC one is first in the loop order).


----------



## looniam

got a problem free CE280 that i've dented and scratched in the last year.

for those keeping score:
XE360*2 50/50
PE360*2 100
PE240*1 100


----------



## toooooot

Howdy! This is my ongoing new project. Mostly made of cheap chinese parts except for monsson reservoir which I wanted to have for a long time. Also my very old eheim pump is still here but I had to hide it because it is ugly. 
Next stem will be adding white video card or making with this one what I did with my black radiator: cover it in a white film.


----------



## Jspinks020

Just good quality copper..prefer the copper blocks. but Nickel is good too. Telling ya everything runs icy as **** with delids and actually liquid Pro on the Block. can't even get it to go past 80c. And even with like 80 degree ambient's...There is significance in Metals and coatings that are like that and do transfer heat Optimally. Now whether or not eating into the die or fusing the block or not. Takes Alcohol to clean the ****.


----------



## alienalvan

toooooot said:


> Howdy! This is my ongoing new project. Mostly made of cheap chinese parts except for monsson reservoir which I wanted to have for a long time. Also my very old eheim pump is still here but I had to hide it because it is ugly.
> Next stem will be adding white video card or making with this one what I did with my black radiator: cover it in a white film.


Everything looks splendid except the fan...


----------



## Blze001

*Rocks back and forth hitting F5 waiting for custom part to ship*

Why did I let you losers drag me into the world of watercooling?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Blze001 said:


> *Rocks back and forth hitting F5 waiting for custom part to ship*
> 
> Why did I let you losers drag me into the world of watercooling?


----------



## Ceadderman

Blze001 said:


> *Rocks back and forth hitting F5 waiting for custom part to ship*
> 
> Why did I let you losers drag me into the world of watercooling?


Welcome! :wave2:

Don't feel bad I am awaiting 6 more EV2 fittings, Hex Flowmeter digi RGB and RX 480 backplate. 2 day shipping is not fast enough for me. 


~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Blze001 said:


> *Rocks back and forth hitting F5 waiting for custom part to ship*
> 
> Why did I let you losers drag me into the world of watercooling?



Welcome to the club. 

TCO


----------



## toooooot

alienalvan said:


> Everything looks splendid except the fan...


That is 100% true. Those are the fans I got for free and I just couldn't buy white fans at the time. The update is coming though. White fans or black fans, white leds.


----------



## Abaidor

Ceadderman said:


> Welcome! :wave2:
> 
> Don't feel bad I am awaiting 6 more EV2 fittings, Hex Flowmeter digi RGB and RX 480 backplate. 2 day shipping is not fast enough for me.
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


After many years in such hobbies if I receive a package in 2 days I might think it's a bomb!!! All my purchases are from other countries so I am used to wait. However, the new "trend" is everything to be out of stock so its even worse now.....

I have decided to go direct die cooling for my CPU and also switch to hard tubes + install some lighting. I have received everything 10 days ago but single most important thing to begin (the direct die frame) will not be here for at least 10 more days...damn the wait!


----------



## ThrashZone

Abaidor said:


> After many years in such hobbies if I receive a package in 2 days I might think it's a bomb!!! All my purchases are from other countries so I am used to wait. However, the new "trend" is everything to be out of stock so its even worse now.....
> 
> I have decided to go direct die cooling for my CPU and also switch to hard tubes + install some lighting. I have received everything 10 days ago but single most important thing to begin (the direct die frame) will not be here for at least 10 more days...damn the wait!


Hi,
Jpmboy had one I'm sure he would of loved to get rid of


----------



## sdmf74

When you guys are installing a gpu waterblock do you put a dab of Tpaste on the memory chips before you apply the Tpads or just use the pads?

btw diggin the D.R.I. avatar!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Thanks 
I don't use any paste where thermal pads are.
Just use alcohol on both surfaces before and it should stick just fine.

Fugipoly pads don't stick very well and are actually pretty brittle kind of crap to tell the truth lol


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I do the paste dab... on the RAM only - not necessary nor even meaningful - but it does help the non-sticky pads stick a little better. I also have found that it helps when doing a breakdown cleaning on the blocks after a year or two - the pads seem to not pull apart as easily. Of course, depending on how often you do a full teardown... it's probably time for new pads anyway... or new GPUs.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

You guys are killing me in here. I need to rebuild my SMA8 and break down my S3 (because it's retired from being my work computer) but can't get a break from doing grown-up stuff with my cash right now (buying property, fixing my vehicles). It's very aggravating! 

TCO


----------



## sdmf74

I normally dont use any paste on the memory but I was considering it since Im doing a teardown to replace defective Monsoon barbs (worst ever fittings). Just ordered new EK t pads, I amost ordered the fujipoly pads thank god I didnt. Also ordered some EK fittings. After my experience with the low flow & corroding monsoon fittings & the dispicable email response I got from Monsoon I will never buy anything from them ever again.

Anyway I think i might use a dab of paste in conjunction w/ pads on my samsung vram and see if i cant get a little more overclock out of them since im overvolting them.


----------



## Abaidor

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Jpmboy had one I'm sure he would of loved to get rid of


I have already paid for the derBauer Direct Die Frame and Caseking notified me that they will have it this Friday so next week I will be all set..
At this point I have to mention that I placed an order with Caseking 3 weeks ago and the Direct Die kit along with some Phantkes LED strips were not in stock. Nonetheless, they shipped everything else immediately and won't charge extra shipment for the frame that is coming next week - good job.


----------



## Blackops_2

Anyone had a rad bust on you randomly? Admittedly i've only done little maintenance to this rig, changed fluid on occasion when transporting. Been running Mayhems pastel green for probably 2 years now, never noticed any build or had issues with any.


----------



## toooooot

Blackops_2 said:


> Anyone had a rad bust on you randomly? Admittedly i've only done little maintenance to this rig, changed fluid on occasion when transporting. Been running Mayhems pastel green for probably 2 years now, never noticed any build or had issues with any.


No, but I had 2 acrylic reservoirs crack and then leak. Both times the same spot where you attach it to hard plastic or metal cover. I was so done with that design that I bought very expensive monsoon mmrs reservoir which uses bolt pressure on the tube and therefore less stress on the crylic glass.


----------



## Blackops_2

toooooot said:


> No, but I had 2 acrylic reservoirs crack and then leak. Both times the same spot where you attach it to hard plastic or metal cover. I was so done with that design that I bought very expensive monsoon mmrs reservoir which uses bolt pressure on the tube and therefore less stress on the crylic glass.


Yeah idk what happened. I've had a fitting on that rad leak before but it would stop. All of a sudden there is a stream of fluid coming out of the rad. Switching from the Enthoo pro to the Define S2, thinking maybe the instability of that case might have something to do with it. I just don't think it was build up because i never noticed anything. Oh well time for maintenance i guess.

Second question would switching from regular tubing/compression fittings to hard tubing/compression be any less safe for traveling?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Blackops_2 said:


> Anyone had a rad bust on you randomly? Admittedly i've only done little maintenance to this rig, changed fluid on occasion when transporting. Been running Mayhems pastel green for probably 2 years now, never noticed any build or had issues with any.



What brand/model of radiator did this happen on? I've had leaks on a couple of EK rads which were fixable (bungs needed thread sealant), but never a leak that developed in the rad body itself. Unless there was a ton of pressure or corrosion (which should have been eliminated by the coolant) that seems strange after 2 years of running fine.


----------



## Blackops_2

DiGiCiDAL said:


> What brand/model of radiator did this happen on? I've had leaks on a couple of EK rads which were fixable (bungs needed thread sealant), but never a leak that developed in the rad body itself. Unless there was a ton of pressure or corrosion (which should have been eliminated by the coolant) that seems strange after 2 years of running fine.


EK XE 240 i believe either an XE or PE. But yeah bottom right corner just a steady stream when the loop is running. Random as hell i played pubg for 8 hours last wednesday without issue.


----------



## Ceadderman

Blackops_2 said:


> Yeah idk what happened. I've had a fitting on that rad leak before but it would stop. All of a sudden there is a stream of fluid coming out of the rad. Switching from the Enthoo pro to the Define S2, thinking maybe the instability of that case might have something to do with it. I just don't think it was build up because i never noticed anything. Oh well time for maintenance i guess.
> 
> Second question would switching from regular tubing/compression fittings to hard tubing/compression be any less safe for traveling?


No less safer than flex tubing. Just drain the loop prior to travel and refill at destination. Also plan your loop to include double rig seal fittings if you haven't already.

I have Monsoon EV2 fittings and so long as you install the correct size rings they grip the tubes super tight. I installed a tube in my first EV2 after installing the rings and swung the tube up and down with some force. Fitting simply will not budge and it takes a bit to insert the tube in place. Once it's in the fitting has a death grip. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Blackops_2

Ceadderman said:


> No less safer than flex tubing. Just drain the loop prior to travel and refill at destination. Also plan your loop to include double rig seal fittings if you haven't already.
> 
> I have Monsoon EV2 fittings and so long as you install the correct size rings they grip the tubes super tight. I installed a tube in my first EV2 after installing the rings and swung the tube up and down with some force. Fitting simply will not budge and it takes a bit to insert the tube in place. Once it's in the fitting has a death grip. :thumb:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:







Was looking at this build to reorganize to today. I've never done hard tubing before but those bends don't seem that complicated, fitting cost would be a bit of an expense but no worries about plasticizer and the cleaner look is something i've wanted for sometime. I'm going to pick up another 320 and move the XE 120 to the Ryzen build to give it some more rad space. Going to put one of the 780s in it as well. Unfortunate really because i was looking to move to a 1080Ti sometime next year and build another mini-ITX for myself. Transporting a 50lb mid tower sucks.


----------



## zeroibis

Lets take this thread back....


to 2002!


Water cooled HDDs, check!


----------



## Streetdragon

Thats nice^^
External Radiator? And watercooled HDD xD


----------



## zeroibis

Streetdragon said:


> Thats nice^^
> External Radiator? And watercooled HDD xD



This was literally my first attempt at water cooling.





Actually cooled by a single 120mm rad at the bottom. It has a delta fan on it so it is getting the static pressure of a vacuum cleaner lol.


Cooling 2x Xeons 2x HDDS and the north bridge. 



3 different tubing sizes!


Notice the double clamps on the Y splits. The pressure was so high that the tubs would blow off and you had to use two in order to prevent leaks. Also yes the Y splits are literally from home depot. 



If you see along the AC power line in the case there is a black box with a yellow wire coming out. This was a relay switch that connected to a 3pin connector on the motherboard. It would detect that the system was on and then connect power to the pump. 



Also mixing tubing sizes is not enough so we also have mixed metals! Yea those cpu blocks are copper but the HDD blocks are solid aluminum. As there was no copper option a bunch of anti corrosion inhibitors were used. I still remember the warning label was really clear not to breath the stuff or you would apparently instantly die, not sure exactly as the labels were in German from innovatek.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Looks like spaghetti for dinner


----------



## CptSpig

zeroibis said:


> Lets take this thread back....
> 
> 
> to 2002!
> 
> 
> Water cooled HDDs, check!


Here is 2018....not much different. Large Rad and Dual Pumps.


----------



## zeroibis

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks like spaghetti for dinner



Eventually that system would have 6 more HDDs added and a RAID 5 array. Then it really looked like spaghetti! One of the reasons I am so proud of my recent builds in my sig is to finally be away from the spaghetti monster! It makes things so much easier to have the space and routing for proper cable management. :thumb:


----------



## scracy

Finally got around to rebuilding "NerDPorN" in the Evolve X and changed a few components along the way, not my first water cooled build but ready to join the OCN water cooling club


----------



## KShirza1

Soft/hard tube

maximus xi formula; 9900k; rtx 2080 ti; caselabs s8s


----------



## andre02

CptSpig said:


> Here is 2018....not much different. Large Rad and Dual Pumps.


I LOVE it !! This is classic watercooling at its best. Although separate rads and testbench are not my thing, it looks very pro, hardcore.

You made me go for a thick rad in the build i'm planning, i was about to go with a slim one. 

What kind of rads are those ? Are they 180mm with 120's on them ?


P.S. Sorry everyone, i don't know how to spoiler pictures anymore, with the new site.


----------



## sdmf74

Anyone know of a 240mm rad with multiple ports and drainport similar to the Alphacool nexxos monsta rad?
Unfortunately mine has a small leak around one of the ports.
The Hardware Labs dual 120 SR2 would be perfect but it doesnt have a port at the bottom which I use for a secondary drain port.


----------



## CptSpig

andre02 said:


> I LOVE it !! This is classic watercooling at its best. Although separate rads and testbench are not my thing, it looks very pro, hardcore.
> 
> You made me go for a thick rad in the build i'm planning, i was about to go with a slim one.
> 
> What kind of rads are those ? Are they 180mm with 120's on them ?
> 
> 
> P.S. Sorry everyone, i don't know how to spoiler pictures anymore, with the new site.


It's a single rad with 9-120 fans: http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-xtreme-nova-1080-9-x-120mm-radiator.html

Use this for spoilers: reply and pick edit


Spoiler



x


----------



## Knightly McNutt

DiGiCiDAL said:


> I do the paste dab... on the RAM only - not necessary nor even meaningful - but it does help the non-sticky pads stick a little better. I also have found that it helps when doing a breakdown cleaning on the blocks after a year or two - the pads seem to not pull apart as easily. Of course, depending on how often you do a full teardown... it's probably time for new pads anyway... or new GPUs.


Insanely beautiful! Well done!


----------



## sdmf74

Nobody, no other 7 port radiators out there?
Or at least a rad with a drain port on the bottom


----------



## GAN77

sdmf74 said:


> Nobody, no other 7 port radiators out there?
> Or at least a rad with a drain port on the bottom


https://www.alphacool.com/shop/radi...xxxos-ut60-full-copper-240mm-radiator?c=20544
https://www.alphacool.com/shop/radi...xxxos-ut60-full-copper-280mm-radiator?c=20544
https://www.alphacool.com/shop/radi...xxxos-xt45-full-copper-420mm-radiator?c=20544


----------



## Kimir

XSPC have some multi-port rad out there (not at the bottom).
But for a drain port, you are better off with a T-splitter and a drain/ball valve (like EK shows here).








but at the bottom of your rig, because you know, gravity.


----------



## sdmf74

Lol dude you linked 3 of the same radiators. Also If you read my post it says other than Alphacool. The whole reason I was hoping to NOT buy another Alphacool (even though it would be conveniant) is because mine sprung a leak, alphacool has crappy welds around the ports. Now look at the HL SR2 multiport Rad that thing will never spring a leak around a port! It just drives me insane that they put 8 ports ALL on one end. It would have been the perfect rad if it had a drainport. 
maybe it would be better to show a pic, as you can see i already have a ball valve on my reservoir but I also cut a hole in a fan cover and ran a rotary out the bottom of my caselabs case & it makes draining unbelievably easier & I can fully flush my pc without leaving the front rad full of water.


----------



## alienalvan

*Hybrid Water Cooling*

Lazy to take out the AIO & planning to have a individual loop just for the GPU's, not sure a 34mm thick 240 Rad would be good enough? Any suggestion?


----------



## Deedaz

sdmf74 said:


> Nobody, no other 7 port radiators out there?
> Or at least a rad with a drain port on the bottom


HWL Black ice SR2 rads have multi-port setups, also I think there's a darkside rad from dazmode with extra ports.


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah the SR2 was the rad I mentioned in my previous post, I thought about trying to solder around the port on the Alphacool but wasnt sure how well it would hold up. I went ahead and ordered the SR2, I guess I will have to go without being able to drain my radiator until HL or someone else releases a model with a bottom port.
Very dissapointed in the design and durability of the Alphacool rad. Couldnt bring myself to buy another one & the phobya is basically the same junk radiator.


----------



## Blackops_2

So just tore down the rig from the busted rad, got everything in so i'm about to move it to the Define S2 and start bending PETG. Couple of questions though does that look like plasticizer to y'all? And i got a Black Ice Nemesis L-series GTS in that i was going to pair with the swiftech MCPxxx cool n quiet something (can't remember the name), though seeing as i can fit a 56mm rad in the front with the 29mm GTS up top i'm thinking of ordering another Nemesis L-series GTX. But do i really need that? A 3770k @ 4.5ghz and a 780 as high as i can push it whilst remaining stable would be the heat i'd be managing. I'm ditching SLi and putting one of the 780s in the Ryzen Build and hoping to pick up a 1080Ti in January hopefully and will probably continue rocking the 3770k @ 4.5ghz until Ryzen 2 and Navi. I mean 120x6 even with Corsair 120sp despite the thickness should be pretty adequate for that load no?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

It could be placticizer, but it looks like it's mostly the particles from the pastel coolant. I ran a few systems with pastels, but after you break everything down and spend hours cleaning everything and still get milky water when you refill with distilled... it really loses it's appeal fast IMO.


The pastels and pearls look fantastic (in other people's rigs) but they'll never be going in another one of mine. I'm not ever going to even use dyes I think from here on out, but at least they might stain a little, but can be removed with just a few dozen fill-and-drain cycles. The pastel stuff is there in small amounts even after flushing a radiator 5-6 times! And the fittings and microfins in the blocks... way more time than it's worth to me.


Anyway, enough soapboxing... you're going hardlines now anyway... so you won't have to worry about plasticizer again. :thumb:


But if you see the same situation after running pastel in that setup... don't be too surprised.


----------



## Blackops_2

DiGiCiDAL said:


> It could be placticizer, but it looks like it's mostly the particles from the pastel coolant. I ran a few systems with pastels, but after you break everything down and spend hours cleaning everything and still get milky water when you refill with distilled... it really loses it's appeal fast IMO.
> 
> 
> The pastels and pearls look fantastic (in other people's rigs) but they'll never be going in another one of mine. I'm not ever going to even use dyes I think from here on out, but at least they might stain a little, but can be removed with just a few dozen fill-and-drain cycles. The pastel stuff is there in small amounts even after flushing a radiator 5-6 times! And the fittings and microfins in the blocks... way more time than it's worth to me.
> 
> 
> Anyway, enough soapboxing... you're going hardlines now anyway... so you won't have to worry about plasticizer again. :thumb:
> 
> 
> But if you see the same situation after running pastel in that setup... don't be too surprised.


I hear ya just curious because my front rad busted earlier this week and upon disassembly i thought maybe that was it. I've been running it for two years with maybe one drain to transport. What do you think about the rad situation? Should i just stick with the swiftech? Or pick up a thicker rad for the front? Looked in the ryzen rig and had gunk in the bottom of my res. Maybe i should've done a more serious flushing of that system before just filling and going.

Also does anyone know where i can find the bitspower premium top reservoir adapter? I order the mod reservoir mount thinking i had the right top and corresponding mount but it's far to small for the premium top.


----------



## jura11

@Blackops_2

What tubing did you use previously? It does looks like plasticizer to me but hard to say there, I use Pastel coolants on friends builds and on my I used like X1 or XT-1 or Pastel coolants and no issues

I would get Mayhems Blitz kit and clean radiators and whole loop with this kit, its worth it 

With Blitz kit you should be able to clean all remnants of pastel coolant from yours loop

Regarding the radiator bust, few weeks or rather months my XE360 started to leak after 1 year or so, other XE360 started to leak after 2nd year

Regarding the radiators, depending on how much space or how many radiators you can use or put in yours case, I prefer to run at least two radiators on any loop and keep low water delta T, if its possible then 2*360mm radiators should be my preferred option, have run 360mm and 240mm 60mm thick radiator with OC 5960x and 3*GPUs and no issues, tried one loop where we are run 360mm radiator for CPU and SLI GPUs but after few hours we are decided get another radiator to loop as temperatures has been on higher side

From personal experience I wouldn't get HWLabs L-series or LS360 these radiators are very restrictive and don't perform as GTS360, if its possible then get GTS360 or TX360 or any other good radiator

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Blackops_2

jura11 said:


> @Blackops_2
> 
> What tubing did you use previously? It does looks like plasticizer to me but hard to say there, I use Pastel coolants on friends builds and on my I used like X1 or XT-1 or Pastel coolants and no issues
> 
> I would get Mayhems Blitz kit and clean radiators and whole loop with this kit, its worth it
> 
> With Blitz kit you should be able to clean all remnants of pastel coolant from yours loop
> 
> Regarding the radiator bust, few weeks or rather months my XE360 started to leak after 1 year or so, other XE360 started to leak after 2nd year
> 
> Regarding the radiators, depending on how much space or how many radiators you can use or put in yours case, I prefer to run at least two radiators on any loop and keep low water delta T, if its possible then 2*360mm radiators should be my preferred option, have run 360mm and 240mm 60mm thick radiator with OC 5960x and 3*GPUs and no issues, tried one loop where we are run 360mm radiator for CPU and SLI GPUs but after few hours we are decided get another radiator to loop as temperatures has been on higher side
> 
> From personal experience I wouldn't get HWLabs L-series or LS360 these radiators are very restrictive and don't perform as GTS360, if its possible then get GTS360 or TX360 or any other good radiator
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Appreciate the input Jura, i have blitz and do plan on running it through this loop once i get it assembled. Tubing was Primochill advanced LRT.

I just disassembled the ryzen rig and put my other 780 classified in it. Had some gunk in the bottom of the res i should've taken a picture, looked like dirt or something. It was black/grey. I disassembled cleaned and flushed with distilled and am leak testing it again. Checked the DDC to make sure nothing was in it. Tubing in that one is mayhems.

I have a swiftech MCP quiet series 360 rad and the nemesis L-GTS i just got from PPCs for my main rig. So it will be 120x6 for a 3770k and 780 classified. Yeah i wanted to go with the regular nemesis but PPC was sold out on pretty much everything but the new GTR series. Which had me contemplating grabbing another L series. I've already got the L-series GTS though unfortunately. Googled but i couldn't find much before buying and admittedly i'm trying to get my rigs back up and running. I'm on break for three weeks and don't want to spend most of it working on PCs when i need to be hunting and working on load development for a couple of rifles, that's life though lol.


----------



## anticommon

I am now starting my first hadline build. Thermal take a500, koolance 360mm, ek 360xe, ek velocity rgb, enermax neochanger 300ml res/tank combo, ek hdr chrome and 10/12mm tubing. Any last minute tips would be appreciated


----------



## Zammin

anticommon said:


> I am now starting my first hadline build. Thermal take a500, koolance 360mm, ek 360xe, ek velocity rgb, enermax neochanger 300ml res/tank combo, ek hdr chrome and 10/12mm tubing. Any last minute tips would be appreciated


I was recently looking into that enermax neochanger pump/res as it boasted some good specs on paper. The thing that concerned me was that it supposedly has some aluminium parts. The cap is definitely aluminium, although it's either anodized or has some other type of coating, and some people were writing that the internals may have some aluminium components as well but I couldn't confirm this.

It's pretty cool that it supposedly has better flow and head pressure than a standard D5, and the pump speed display is pretty cool, but I was a little disappointed in the lack of PWM control. But if you like to set and forget the pump speed that's obviously not an issue.

Just thought the bit about the aluminium was worth mentioning, but it might not be an issue with modern coolants. Hope it all goes well.


----------



## dwolvin

I have one, and it's faily quiet but not silent. And all I can say about the aluminum cap is that I found this thread and thought I'd try this pump since the sale at intor was crazy (almost half price). I'm indifferent to the RGB, but it is there and effective.

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli...estion_anyone_know_if_the_neochanger_is_safe/


----------



## jura11

Blackops_2 said:


> Appreciate the input Jura, i have blitz and do plan on running it through this loop once i get it assembled. Tubing was Primochill advanced LRT.
> 
> I just disassembled the ryzen rig and put my other 780 classified in it. Had some gunk in the bottom of the res i should've taken a picture, looked like dirt or something. It was black/grey. I disassembled cleaned and flushed with distilled and am leak testing it again. Checked the DDC to make sure nothing was in it. Tubing in that one is mayhems.
> 
> I have a swiftech MCP quiet series 360 rad and the nemesis L-GTS i just got from PPCs for my main rig. So it will be 120x6 for a 3770k and 780 classified. Yeah i wanted to go with the regular nemesis but PPC was sold out on pretty much everything but the new GTR series. Which had me contemplating grabbing another L series. I've already got the L-series GTS though unfortunately. Googled but i couldn't find much before buying and admittedly i'm trying to get my rigs back up and running. I'm on break for three weeks and don't want to spend most of it working on PCs when i need to be hunting and working on load development for a couple of rifles, that's life though lol.


Hi there 

I have tried PrimoChill Advanced LRT on one build but I replaced the tubing for cheaper Mayhems Clear tubing or UV White as LRT started to yellowing after while

Few guys used LRT and they're experienced plasticizer with that tubing, hard to say, I have run that tubing only for 3 months and I wouldn't touch that tubing 

Regarding the gunk at bottom of reservoir, what radiators did you run, did you clean the radiators prior to use any coolant 

I remember friend has bought new Alphacool Monsta radiator and after initial filling up with distilled water, everything has been fine but after we are filled with any coolant like EK CryoFuel or Mayhems X1, color has started to change etc

After that we are cleaned radiators with Blitz and then everything has been just fine

Regarding the HWLabs LS360 or L-series reviews, Bitspower Leviathan is exactly same or similar as LS360, they're rebrand or rebadged LS360 

https://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/04/29/bitspower-leviathan-slim-360mm-radiator-review/

They're not bad, just they're just don't perform as GTS360 and they're bit on restrictive side 

I have run 3 these radiators and I wouldn't run them again 

TX360 from XSPC looks like good alternative to GTS360 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Blackops_2

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> I have tried PrimoChill Advanced LRT on one build but I replaced the tubing for cheaper Mayhems Clear tubing or UV White as LRT started to yellowing after while
> 
> Few guys used LRT and they're experienced plasticizer with that tubing, hard to say, I have run that tubing only for 3 months and I wouldn't touch that tubing
> 
> Regarding the gunk at bottom of reservoir, what radiators did you run, did you clean the radiators prior to use any coolant
> 
> I remember friend has bought new Alphacool Monsta radiator and after initial filling up with distilled water, everything has been fine but after we are filled with any coolant like EK CryoFuel or Mayhems X1, color has started to change etc
> 
> After that we are cleaned radiators with Blitz and then everything has been just fine
> 
> Regarding the HWLabs LS360 or L-series reviews, Bitspower Leviathan is exactly same or similar as LS360, they're rebrand or rebadged LS360
> 
> https://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/04/29/bitspower-leviathan-slim-360mm-radiator-review/
> 
> They're not bad, just they're just don't perform as GTS360 and they're bit on restrictive side
> 
> I have run 3 these radiators and I wouldn't run them again
> 
> TX360 from XSPC looks like good alternative to GTS360
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Gunk was in the mini-ITX system with a nemesis GTS 240. I tore it down yesterday and flushed it with distilled and am up back up and running again. Admittedly i don't think i cleaned the GTS 240, i just figured they were good to go, which was probably stupid.

I already have the L-series GTS 360 which is why i don't really want to send it back. Despite it being a little more restrictive it will still be 120x6 worth of rad space which i think would be pretty adequate for a 3770k and one 780. Hell i ran just that on a 3770k and 2x 780s with acceptable temps. Less you think the rad is going to hinder performance that much? Fans are corsair sp120s.


----------



## jura11

Blackops_2 said:


> Gunk was in the mini-ITX system with a nemesis GTS 240. I tore it down yesterday and flushed it with distilled and am up back up and running again. Admittedly i don't think i cleaned the GTS 240, i just figured they were good to go, which was probably stupid.
> 
> I already have the L-series GTS 360 which is why i don't really want to send it back. Despite it being a little more restrictive it will still be 120x6 worth of rad space which i think would be pretty adequate for a 3770k and one 780. Hell i ran just that on a 3770k and 2x 780s with acceptable temps. Less you think the rad is going to hinder performance that much? Fans are corsair sp120s.


Hi there 

LS360 is not bad radiator as I said, I have used my LS360 on friends builds, one build is running 2*GTX1080Ti OC in SLI and there temperatures are OK or good, his build is 8700k with GTX1080Ti in SLI and extra 240mm on bottom, other friend build is similar with 8700k with RTX 2080Ti etc with extra HWLabs SR-2 240mm on bottom and temperatures are too OK

In first loop we are running single DDC pump and flow there is OK or reasonable and second loop there is D5 pump and there flow is reasonable 

These HWLabs L-series radiators are bit on restrictive side that's my biggest issue with them, their heat dissipation is around 25-30W less than GTS360 

I don't think this radiator will hinder as much performance, maybe yours water delta T will be bit higher than should be with other radiator or you will need to run fans bit faster than with other radiator

Its worth to try what will works for you there

Single radiator for 3770k and 780 if you mean if its enough, I always try to run 2 radiators like 360mm and 240mm at least at front or bottom, this works for me 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## DirtyBear

*SMA8 Rebuild*

Finally my SMA8 rebuild done


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't understand why people still believe PrimoChill Advanced tubing doesn't have plasticizer in it. Sure it may not contain as much as the original tubing but SFAIK every flexible tubing has the stuff, as that is what makes plastic tubing flexible. The only flexible tubing I know of that doesn't is EK ZMT which isn't clear and is made of rubber. That is why I went with Rigid tubing after my White PC tubing leeched in my loop. Thankfully the copper in my block and radiator colored it a bluish green tint. Otherwise I would never have seen it. 

There is a thread here about the plasticizer. wermad actually debunked the Advanced tubing claims. 

Sadly word hasn't gotten round thoroughly enough on the net and rookies continue to purchase the stuff. :mellowsmi 

My loop is almost rebuilt but am doing my case mod at the same time. Need to finish the interior face plate and bend the HDD/Pump mount to hold two 3.5 drives and my D5 in front of the vertically placed 360. I've removed the 3.5 and HDD bays from my 932. So yeah soon as I have the mount done I will be bending and connecting everything. Of course the mod will not be done but it will be close enough that I can fire it up. Till I mod in two more 360s. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## scracy

DirtyBear said:


> Finally my SMA8 rebuild done


Nice job looks great :thumb:


----------



## sdmf74

Yep thats why I went with ZMT, got tired of dealing with plasticizer, great tubing, lasts forever.

Anybody know where there might be some CaseLabs parts left available? For instance a 38mm top cover ventilated.


----------



## Ithanul

sdmf74 said:


> Yep thats why I went with ZMT, got tired of dealing with plasticizer, great tubing lasts forever.
> 
> Anybody know where there might be some CaseLabs parts left available? For instance a 38mm top cover ventilated.


Say to check the sales area of the forum. Saw a few folks there selling parts for caselab cases.


----------



## Blackops_2

Alright so got the Ryzen Rig back up and running thought the distilled flush had gotten rid of that gunk, within a day of running again it's back. I guess i'm going to drain it and run blitz, it's that radiator debris?


----------



## sdmf74

Im curious if you have had any issues with your monsoon free center compression fittings?
I just had to break down my rig completely & replace all mine, they were a pita and difficult to remove. The barbs are junk. I went with EK, now i got a bunch of extra 45/90 monsoon rotaries smh


----------



## Deedaz

sdmf74 said:


> Im curious if you have had any issues with your monsoon free center compression fittings?
> I just had to break down my rig completely & replace all mine, they were a pita and difficult to remove. The barbs are junk. I went with EK, now i got a bunch of extra 45/90 monsoon rotaries smh


What exactly is wrong with them? The barbs should be pretty easy to remove since they have a notch you can use a coin to remove them.


----------



## Blze001

Back together, hopefully for the last time on this hardware. Only downside is the side panel won't fit with the rear radiator. That's a problem. I'll figure something out.


----------



## sdmf74

Its a known issue with the barbs corroding. Its not removing the barbs but removing the comp fitting from the barbs. If you have newer ones you may not have an issue, they might have started plating them differently. I contacted monsoon and they were complete dbags about the issue. I found several posts though stating that monsoon would replace the defective ones, turned out to not be the case for me so I bought EK instead & will stay away from monsoon everything from now on.


----------



## Blackops_2

sdmf74 said:


> Im curious if you have had any issues with your monsoon free center compression fittings?
> I just had to break down my rig completely & replace all mine, they were a pita and difficult to remove. The barbs are junk. I went with EK, now i got a bunch of extra 45/90 monsoon rotaries smh


I haven't but this rig is less than a year old. I only have their fittings none of their rotary pieces or anything like that. I used EK, alpha cool, and bitspower for angled rotaries.


----------



## Ceadderman

sdmf74 said:


> Its a known issue with the barbs corroding. Its not removing the barbs but removing the comp fitting from the barbs. If you have newer ones you may not have an issue, they might have started plating them differently. I contacted monsoon and they were complete dbags about the issue. I found several posts though stating that monsoon would replace the defective ones, turned out to not be the case for me so I bought EK instead & will stay away from monsoon everything from now on.


Did you have the silver base economies or the collar colored bases?

Additives? PTNuke or? What metals were in your loop at the time? Mixed, all copper? Flush with tap or distilled? 

I have used the free center economies and didn't have a single issue with them. But then I run straight distilled no additives. I have used both versions or them and did notice that the silver plating wearing down to white but its not corrosion. 

Did you know that Gene from Monsoon is a member here and did you contact him first before calling them? He will generally bend over backwards to correct anything defective with his products. Though I can't say they will take it on good faith that it wasn't caused at your end. Not saying it was, but there are a lot of variables involved.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## QuantumX

Hi guys,

Here is my build called Quantatoxin

Intel Core i7-9700K @ 5.0GHz
ASUS Strix Z370-G (WI-FI AC)
8GB HyperX 2666MHz (For now)
MSI GTX 980Ti Gaming 6G
Seasonic Prime Platinum 1000w
SK hynix PC300 1TB NVMe
Corsair Obsidian 350D

HwLabs Nemesis GTS240 top rad
EK PE240 front rad
EK Supremacy EVO Copper & Acetal CPU block
EK Nickel & Acetal GPU Block
Barrow 17w DDC pump
Barrow fittings
Freezemod single 3.5" bay res
EK-CryoFuel Solid Neon Green coolant
5x Corsair ML120 fans controlled through BIOS with Chassis Fan header PWM signal going to 10 port Thermaltake Fan Hub and Water Temp as input signal

3DMark FireStrike:
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/17460396#

The 9700K uses more than 200w with Y-Cruncher's BBP stress test :O


----------



## DarthBaggins

How're you liking the 9700k? I've been on the fence on either snagging a 8700k or the 9700k (the price and thermals of the 9900k have me deterred compared to my current 6900k)


----------



## QuantumX

DarthBaggins said:


> How're you liking the 9700k? I've been on the fence on either snagging a 8700k or the 9700k (the price and thermals of the 9900k have me deterred compared to my current 6900k)


I'm really happy with it. Glad I didn't get the 9900K since the heat denisty would've been too much to handle for any sort of cooling. I almost went for the i7-8086K also but I prefer not to have hyperthreading for gaming in which case the 9700K was perfect. 

Games are running super smooth and I can't recall seeing a single framerate lag spike this whole week and I've played at least 25 hours on various games. Compressing gameplay recordings with Handbrake H.265 is also super quick, a big improvement from the i7-6700K I had before.


----------



## skupples

long time no chat folks,

Finally rebuilding my STH10.

without lighting OCN on fire, 

I trust I can still toss an EKWB atop a ref 2080 & be golden?

oh, and a 5 year old EK universal supremacy should fit lga1151, correct?


----------



## Jspinks020

Well they went back to soldered I believe. so just a good block man and whatever mx4 or something. I don't know if it runs hot or not. at least team red runs pretty icy Blocked, thank god. LM made about 0 difference so I just put some mx4 on it....a paste might actually still be better with Nickel maybe.


----------



## looniam

skupples said:


> long time no chat folks,
> 
> Finally rebuilding my STH10.
> 
> without lighting OCN on fire,
> 
> I trust I can still toss an EKWB atop a ref 2080 & be golden?
> 
> oh, and a 5 year old EK universal supremacy should fit lga1151, correct?


SKUP!

welcome back to the waste land since the great migration.

don't know but thinks so, sorry. 

yes the mounting is the same on all 115x sockets.


----------



## sdmf74

Im getting ready to fill my loop and use the concentrate version of EK CRYOFUEL for the first time and I need to know if its supposed to look like this??? 
Smells wierd too like finger nail polish kinda.


----------



## Abaidor

sdmf74 said:


> Im getting ready to fill my loop and use the concentrate version of EK CRYOFUEL for the first time and I need to know if its supposed to look like this???
> Smells wierd too like finger nail polish kinda.


It's been some months since I used the same and I don't remember it being that opaque..I used the clear Cryofuel concentrate and it's been running fine for the last 8 months.

Is this "tiny" air bubbles or what in there? Did it clear after letting it sit for some time? Try another bottle if you have some.


----------



## sdmf74

Both bottles look like that. I shook it well per the instructions then poured it in the glass, after a bit the bubbles went away but it still looks like piss. I have one half of a 100L bottle of the premix (not concentrate) that is more than 6 months old and its crystal clear, actually ive used like 6 1L bottles of the premix and never had a problem.

Just looked the concentrate up on EKWB.com and its EOL!

Im not happy ive already had several setbacks putting my rig back together after a cpu waterblock upgrade. First my monsta rad sprung a leak (paper thin construction) then I noticed my BP res was cracked so I waited another week for those parts now this.
Could run dist water till I can find a quality clear mix I suppose. Anyone know of a reliable one?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say mix it and see how it is after the mix, but I've been using the premix clear for a couple years now w/ zero issues and it's been perfectly clear since day one.


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> Im getting ready to fill my loop and use the concentrate version of EK CRYOFUEL for the first time and I need to know if its supposed to look like this???
> Smells wierd too like finger nail polish kinda.


Hi,
Don't use EK fluids it's as you can see garbage and hell to get rid of
Use distilled water until you can pick up some Koolance premix or mayham x1 clear.

Look at it closer this crap will clog a block quick


----------



## Jspinks020

The cig loop abomination, mixed metals of everything literally copper/chrome/nickel/alum. Glychol and Glycerin stuff. and more seal trash getting caught in the gpu block looks like. still great on pump at 2700rpm. That block won't crack either or leak nice and tight and harder stuff thread wise. I don't know I flashed it and just left alone at 4.32 and 3466. Much better pics though that S9...runs great id tell ya to build that...I want a nice case and do something nice there maybe. 
But you can have that shorter run, just jumping it and no restriction hardly.


----------



## sdmf74

That coolant is nasty, my cryofuel "premix" never had that stuff in it. You sure thats not plasticizer.
Have you personally used the koolance and/or mayhems clear without issue?

@jspinks whats up with the pile of cigarettes on your motherboard lol. Maybe you should start vaping, however I dont think ejuice would be much better for your motherboard but it would be much better for you


----------



## Kimir

Been using mayhem X1 clear for a while here, no issues.


----------



## Jspinks020

sdmf74 said:


> That coolant is nasty, my cryofuel "premix" never had that stuff in it. You sure thats not plasticizer.
> Have you personally used the koolance and/or mayhems clear without issue?
> 
> @jspinks whats up with the pile of cigarettes on your motherboard lol. Maybe you should start vaping, however I dont think ejuice would be much better for your motherboard but it would be much better for you


Lol...Yeah I had a few bottles of the Cryofuel and way back had a jug of the Thermaltake like stuff Glychol/Glycerin. No I never use that one I seen it though. out of Clean water..tap..and heavy in the bad stuff. Scummed up that other rad pretty good. changed it out, that ones like slightly thicker and flipped the fans for less dust. Other than that fine cooling great. like at 2-3% glychol there. But yeah id like to order more of that stuff..stayed clean for a long time.

Well I bought one of the dang vape pens online cheap one and didn't even work, I still want try that some of the vape juices are probably awesome. Like if there is a good strong one to take a hit from, from time to time. Been years since I felt all the Nic and Cig level that much lol.


----------



## Blze001

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Don't use EK fluids it's as you can see garbage and hell to get rid of
> Use distilled water until you can pick up some Koolance premix or mayham x1 clear.
> 
> Look at it closer this crap will clog a block quick


Wow, that's really strange. I've had cryofuel premix in my loop for a few months and when I drained to do my rebuild, it was still clear as water.


----------



## ThrashZone

Blze001 said:


> Wow, that's really strange. I've had cryofuel premix in my loop for a few months and when I drained to do my rebuild, it was still clear as water.


Hi,
Did you break down your cpu/ gpu water blocks ?

Mine were totally clogged.
Yes it clears up but the blocks are catching all those fibers.


----------



## skupples

looniam said:


> SKUP!
> 
> welcome back to the waste land since the great migration.
> 
> don't know but thinks so, sorry.
> 
> yes the mounting is the same on all 115x sockets.


heyoo!

Thanks. Long time no see. 

I'd +1 but... we won't go there. 



sdmf74 said:


> Im getting ready to fill my loop and use the concentrate version of EK CRYOFUEL for the first time and I need to know if its supposed to look like this???
> Smells wierd too like finger nail polish kinda.


the smell is normal, but I've never worked with EK's product so can't answer the other part.

note - keep coolants away from alcoholics, they just might drink some of them. Mayhem's clear smells like cheap whiskey. Or at least, use to.

in short- stick to Mayhem's Clear products. I see the clear blue is running for only $12 a bottle on performancePC's still running like garbage now not so new website.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

skupples said:


> the smell is normal, but I've never worked with EK's product so can't answer the other part.
> 
> note - keep coolants away from alcoholics, they just might drink some of them. Mayhem's clear smells like cheap whiskey. Or at least, use to.
> 
> in short- stick to Mayhem's Clear products. I see the clear blue is running for only $12 a bottle on performancePC's still running like garbage now not so new website.



Yep still does... I think it smells like banana peel moonshine. I've had problems with X1 - but that was a manufacturing issue where it was really yellow in the bottle. Got some EK crap that was molding inside the bottle... put a picture on here somewhere - probably in this thread but it was a year or more ago. Thankfully never put it in a loop. 



With that one exception the X1 clear has run for over a year in one system without even a tiny amount of coloration - and the blocks were pristine when I broke one down for a check last week. Didn't even bother to do the rest... just filled with new X1 for safety sake. I'm sure it would still be fine for another year though if I was desperate.


----------



## Hydroplane

My setup


----------



## Blze001

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Did you break down your cpu/ gpu water blocks ?
> 
> Mine were totally clogged.
> Yes it clears up but the blocks are catching all those fibers.


No, but now I'm concerned. And a bit annoyed. I finally made the jump, but now I'm learning that you cant trust most premixes or concentrates and flexible tubing apparently will always ruin your blocks with plasticizer eventually.


----------



## skupples

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Yep still does... I think it smells like banana peel moonshine. I've had problems with X1 - but that was a manufacturing issue where it was really yellow in the bottle. Got some EK crap that was molding inside the bottle... put a picture on here somewhere - probably in this thread but it was a year or more ago. Thankfully never put it in a loop.
> 
> 
> 
> With that one exception the X1 clear has run for over a year in one system without even a tiny amount of coloration - and the blocks were pristine when I broke one down for a check last week. Didn't even bother to do the rest... just filled with new X1 for safety sake. I'm sure it would still be fine for another year though if I was desperate.


i just drained 5 years worth of x1, (of course, tons of topping out, it's 80-90 in my office most of the year) & it was as pristine as you could expect it. I however, will not be breaking down my blocks as I don't wanna have to spend money on new O-rings. I do however know that my temps only went up 2c in 5 years, and i'm guessing that's from caked radiators, fans that stopped working, & 1 of 2 pumps failing. 


decided to order the modern EK block to match the modern EK 2080 block, this way i can keep my 4930k ASUS Black edition fully under water for its' rebuild as the 1440p master, paired with 1070.


i'd also like to report that my 40+ gentle typhoons, all pushing 5-7 years of 24/7 use, still work perfectly fine. Only 4 of them need oil, the rest are day one new after cleaning. 


the only scary thing is that some weird rusty water dripped out of somewhere on one of my radiators, hours after removal. I'm hoping its just water that got into the fins & dusty fluffy furry nasty. Sump Pump loop should help everything pass muster.

now just to find out how folks are cleaning out their radiators these days... specifically, heavily used radiators. So yeah, anyone with any advice for cleaning out radiators that've been running for 5 years, lemme know. I see Mayhems' radiator cleaner product is sold out, everywhere ( = EOL?) still - I just lightly remember classic methods with household acids & basics.


----------



## jura11

Blze001 said:


> Wow, that's really strange. I've had cryofuel premix in my loop for a few months and when I drained to do my rebuild, it was still clear as water.


Hi there 

Personally I'm using Mayhems X1 Clear and very happy

Mayhems now coming with new coolants which should be good too

Have used Mayhems X1 or XT-1 or Pastel coolants and never have issues

Tried only once EK CryoFuel Blood Red which has breakdown within few weeks and caused clogging the blocks 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Added a second story to my 450D mid towers to cover my new 280 gtx rads with some left over pecan finally got around to doing it
Had them on exhaust for a while, darn dust trap that was hard to clean so now back to intake on all rads and yes filtered :wheee:

Did the same for x99 too except with the left over 280 CE rad from x299 rig


----------



## boli

Here's my old rig in a Phanteks Evolv ITX case, where I recently replaced a Titan X (Pascal) with a 2080 Ti. It only had the single 280x140x45 radiator, which was enough to keep the 300W Titan at 55C at +200/+600 OC, but was too loud to keep the 380W 2080 Ti at the same temperature (I like my fans at about 800 rpm).
Also that thing being my first WC build, I didn't realise how much adapters (45, double-45 and 90 degree) could streamline/simplify the loop.








Hence I replaced the case with its bigger sibling. And yes I totally cut a hole in the ITX case's ceiling, otherwise it would get too hot in the attic. 








Some planning before I ordered the new rads, pump and res. Having read good things about HWLabs rads, I found that at 153 mm their 420 GTS rad was slightly too thick to fit in the front. The top 280 could have worked, but for convenience I went with all EK stuff (which arrived 1.5 days later).








The new case has a drain port. But because I couldn't mount the front 420 rad with holes in the bottom, the drain port location was not particularly convenient.








Here's the first version of my loop. This time around I did use lots of adapters. So many in fact, that maybe I should have considered going hard tubes for the first time. 

The Y adapter on top of the res goes to the case's fill port. That looked like a good idea at the time, but it was not. During initial fill-up, gravity would push water from the top rad to the GPU and back into the res from below, and the air would be pushed through the Y-splitter out of the case, but also equally into the front rad on the right. Not an issue when full, but filling took twice as many iterations as it otherwise would have.

I only had 4 of the black Noctua fans, and during testing I noticed that the middle front fan was not working. It turned out to be defective.















Because of the defective fan and unhappiness with the fill/drain situation I didn't just add concentrate to the water, but fully drained the loop. The first half (~4 dl) came out easy, the second half only gradually, when I removed stuff piece by piece…















First thing after replacing the defective fan: test them before putting the loop back in.








While I was at it, I reblocked the 2080 Ti, with 1mm pads on the coils this time, somewhat more TIM, and less pressure on the screws, so as not to bend the PCB.








Filling her up. Note how the air does no longer get pushed into the front radiator like this.
Having the drain here is more convenient too. Will see how well it works when I next drain it… 








Had to use 2 EK Vardar fans on the top 280 rad temporarily.








Back in progress and finished.















Front finished, with 6 black Noctuas this time.


----------



## KShirza1

Hard/soft tube update


----------



## MrYakuZa

My Christmas Lights!!









Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## broodro0ster

sdmf74 said:


> Im getting ready to fill my loop and use the concentrate version of EK CRYOFUEL for the first time and I need to know if its supposed to look like this???
> Smells wierd too like finger nail polish kinda.


Don't use it. I won't look like piss when mixed with water, but the flakes will stain your loop. My reservoir and blocks had a white cloudy stain on it. My tubing was ZMT, so you couldn't see it on the tubing, but it was **** to clean.

I've just rebuild my loop to hard tubing and cleaned my blocks and reservoir with a toothbrush and Blitz Part 2 is now running is my loop. I will never run EK coolant anymore.
Just get some Mayhems Inhibitor+ and Biocide+. Add 4 drops per liter of distilled water of each product and your good to go. The fluid stays crystal clear.


----------



## Ceadderman

KShirza1 said:


> Hard/soft tube update


Looks great would look better all rigid. Less potential headaches.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## khemist

Just switched to the Maximus hero and 9700k, still in the define R6.


----------



## broodro0ster

First time hard tubing for me.


----------



## boli

broodro0ster said:


> First time hard tubing for me.


Very clean, I like it.


----------



## Zammin

broodro0ster said:


> First time hard tubing for me.


Looks fantastic! Very clean tubing runs, well done. The blue stands out nicely against the black.


----------



## scracy

broodro0ster said:


> First time hard tubing for me.


Very nice clean and tidy, looks great :thumb:


----------



## Knoxx29

This was my Machine till 3 days ago https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...-club-picture-gallery-10879.html#post27633786


and this is after Rebuilt


----------



## Knoxx29

Before the rebuild.

sorry for the double post


----------



## Jspinks020

Likeing some of you're guy's cases. I'm undecided but yeah probably stay in that state for awhile. back side panel got thrown out I guess and well the top don't fit now where I cut some aluminum to fit the rad. I have the front piece for it still. It's Jerry rigging for sure. I can get the side panel on no problem. and well I need a bracket bolt down like I could drill a whole in the bottom to mount the pump securely. It's tied in there with some wire lol. 

The opposite order though..going gpu first but yeah a maddd one...have to be safe and just pull it all to drain..worried about spilling anything...already spilt a few drops of water on the gpu….that 3/8" isn't as flexiable as you think and will unscrew a fitting twisting on it..kinda what happened lol...

I need some drive bays too maybe..they got lost too or something. what I said Probaly just end up getting a new case...the Clear panel Fractal Meshify looks awesome..something like that etc. 

But it wasss a cool case just had a ****ty build in it at one time..a lowly FX build and Deer unit....


----------



## skupples

perfect. 

that's what a real water cooled PC looks like, including my STH10.  

by the way, how should I clean my 5 years of 24/7 service rads?


----------



## Jspinks020

skupples said:


> perfect.
> 
> that's what a real water cooled PC looks like, including my STH10.
> 
> by the way, how should I clean my 5 years of 24/7 service rads?


I don't know soap/Glychol..and some other cleaners a degreaser or something....That rad needs it using the old one but it isn't that bad yet. Hard water lime scale build up...that stains some hoses too. those are discolored dull from that too....that left piece was unused...that's why you can see how baddd hoses get ate up and stained lol.

literally need bottled and or distilled and don't use EK's junk..that stained them...I want try Primochill's stuff and the Die's.
It looks like some good new Hose I ordered though..should be in this week. should be set..order about 10ft of 3/8s


----------



## mouacyk

Jspinks020 said:


> Likeing some of you're guy's cases. I'm undecided but yeah probably stay in that state for awhile. back side panel got thrown out I guess and well the top don't fit now where I cut some aluminum to fit the rad. I have the front piece for it still. It's Jerry rigging for sure. I can get the side panel on no problem. and well I need a bracket bolt down like I could drill a whole in the bottom to mount the pump securely. It's tied in there with some wire lol.
> 
> The opposite order though..going gpu first but yeah a maddd one...have to be safe and just pull it all to drain..worried about spilling anything...already spilt a few drops of water on the gpu….that 3/8" isn't as flexiable as you think and will unscrew a fitting twisting on it..kinda what happened lol...
> 
> I need some drive bays too maybe..they got lost too or something. what I said Probaly just end up getting a new case...the Clear panel Fractal Meshify looks awesome..something like that etc.
> 
> But it wasss a cool case just had a ****ty build in it at one time..a lowly FX build and Deer unit....


Holy sag... is that just the camera warp, or is it real?


----------



## Jspinks020

mouacyk said:


> Holy sag... is that just the camera warp, or is it real?



Oh it's 100% real Bro lol...Much better Camera actually...I got hooked up with a Free and or mostly Free S9..and has an Amazing Camera lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Jspinks020 said:


> Likeing some of you're guy's cases. I'm undecided but yeah probably stay in that state for awhile. back side panel got thrown out I guess and well the top don't fit now where I cut some aluminum to fit the rad. I have the front piece for it still. It's Jerry rigging for sure. I can get the side panel on no problem. and well I need a bracket bolt down like I could drill a whole in the bottom to mount the pump securely. It's tied in there with some wire lol.
> 
> The opposite order though..going gpu first but yeah a maddd one...have to be safe and just pull it all to drain..worried about spilling anything...already spilt a few drops of water on the gpu….that 3/8" isn't as flexiable as you think and will unscrew a fitting twisting on it..kinda what happened lol...
> 
> I need some drive bays too maybe..they got lost too or something. what I said Probaly just end up getting a new case...the Clear panel Fractal Meshify looks awesome..something like that etc.
> 
> But it wasss a cool case just had a ****ty build in it at one time..a lowly FX build and Deer unit....


Before doing anything I would fix that spaghetti. 

But that's just me. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## broodro0ster

Ceadderman said:


> Before doing anything I would fix that spaghetti.
> 
> But that's just me.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I saw the painted plexi back panel with bulkhead fittings in it and though it was going to be a super clean hard tube loop until I saw the final pictures


----------



## Knoxx29

broodro0ster said:


> I saw the painted plexi back panel with bulkhead fittings in it and though it was going to be a super clean hard tube loop until I saw the final pictures


Your post is referring to?


----------



## broodro0ster

Knoxx29 said:


> Your post is referring to?




Click on the quote and then again on his quote and you’ll it. It’s about the spaghetti build a few posts earlier. He made such a nice panel to cover the holes in his case and then added a bunch of soft tube. 

But each to their own of course.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Can't wait to redo my loop in the newly acquired beQuiet! Silent Base 801 I won from BitWit, Paul's Hardware. & BPS Customs.


----------



## bluedevil

DarthBaggins said:


> Can't wait to redo my loop in the newly acquired beQuiet! Silent Base 801 I won from BitWit, Paul's Hardware. & BPS Customs.


Awesome to hear someone from OCN won something! Looking forward to the build.:thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Congrats Darth :thumb:


----------



## sdmf74

To follow up on my "yellow" clear EK concentrate, some people were saying that its supposed to be slightly yellowish. NO, EK confirmed it should be totally clear!

Lots of people using mayhems x1 but anyone have experience with mayhem XT-1 NUKE clear coolant? I ordered a 250ml bottle of concentrate, suppose to have a 7 year shelf life!

I'm done with EK coolant!!!

Someone commented on the 15ml bottles of Mayhems inhibitor & biocide+ that's actually what I came here to ask about lol. I didn't know it existed till yesterday, actually after my Nuke runs out I'll probably go that route with distilled. If anyone else has experience with it please share your results? It doesn't have copper sulfate in it like the biocide extreme right?
I wanna make sure it's safe for my nickel blocks


----------



## broodro0ster

sdmf74 said:


> To follow up on my "yellow" clear EK concentrate, some people were saying that its supposed to be slightly yellowish. NO, EK confirmed it should be totally clear!
> 
> Lots of people using mayhems x1 but anyone have experience with mayhem XT-1 NUKE clear coolant? I ordered a 250ml bottle of concentrate, suppose to have a 7 year shelf life!
> 
> I'm done with EK coolant!!!
> 
> Someone commented on the 15ml bottles of Mayhems inhibitor & biocide+ that's actually what I came here to ask about lol. I didn't know it existed till yesterday, actually after my Nuke runs out I'll probably go that route with distilled. If anyone else has experience with it please share your results? It doesn't have copper sulfate in it like the biocide extreme right?
> I wanna make sure it's safe for my nickel blocks


Just keep in mind that XT1 is not compatible with PETG and maybe some other tubing. X1 is the safer variant.
Inhibitor and biocide+ are safe for nickel and PETG.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Frankly I'd just use Koolance fluids instead good for two years.
https://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=58_191


----------



## davidm71

What do you guys think about XSPC Concentrate?


----------



## sdmf74

Yes I checked their graph, petg seems to be incompatible, im using EK rubber tubing so I'm good there. 

That Koolance coolant is $20 for lousy 700ml, I would need 3 bottles.
Mayhems Nuke is $11 for 250ml of concentrate.


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> Yes I checked their graph, petg seems to be incompatible, im using EK rubber tubing so I'm good there.
> 
> That Koolance coolant is $20 for lousy 700ml, I would need 3 bottles.
> Mayhems Nuke is $11 for 250ml of concentrate.


Hi,
The other option was Red line water wetter usually located at auto zone.. only a few caps fulls per liter or quart ? @Jpmboy is supposedly using this stuff 

Not sure about mayham nuke all I've seen is PTNuke which is not good for nickle plating.


----------



## DirtyScrubz

First hardline build that I finished last night:


----------



## sdmf74

Nice setup, is that music really necessary though ...cringe couldn't click the x fast enough.

What's the ingrediant in coolant that's usually referred to for lubricating the pump?
I've got a bunch of propylene glycol here for making my own ejuice, I should probably look into making my own coolant. Perhaps a few drops of Mayhems inhibitor & biocide and say 10% propylene glycol mixed with distilled water would probably work as good if not better than all these expensive premix clear liquids! Thoughts?

EDIT: Just found out that PG (propylene glycol) is used in astroglide so I guess it is a good lubricant, lol.😊


----------



## sdmf74

Ok so you guys remember the other day I ordered 2 bottles of EK clear concentrate & it was yellowish, well they replaced it & I got the premix cryofuel instead & ordered a 250ml bottle of Mayhems XT-1 NUKE clear concentrate also. Just opened the bottles to inspect them & this time the EK is totally clear as it should be BUT the Mayhems Nuke is yellow! I swear I can't win, you would think with these issues they would have inspected it before shipping it out the door jeez....


----------



## skupples

You can definitely make your own coolant just fine. Plenty around here do it actually. 

As to coolant worries. 

Someone told me to use mayhems classic X1 clear years ago, and I’ve never had a single issue since. Not a one. 

And isn’t Nuke for super hard core uses??? It’s likely closer to antifreeze, as shown in ur pic, for that reason. He’s not really one to mess stuff up, and the product is too new to have already turned unless there an unknown defective batch, which is highly unlikely.

Coolant questions on OCN should be answered like this by non sponsored folks - mayhems, or buy / mix at your own risk! XD

Last but not least. Not many clear coolant concentrates are truly colorless. 

Only biocide n stuff like that would qualify as truly clear, imo.


----------



## Zammin

sdmf74 said:


> Ok so you guys remember the other day I ordered 2 bottles of EK clear concentrate & it was yellowish, well they replaced it & I got the premix cryofuel instead & ordered a 250ml bottle of Mayhems XT-1 NUKE clear concentrate also. Just opened the bottles to inspect them & this time the EK is totally clear as it should be BUT the Mayhems Nuke is yellow! I swear I can't win, you would think with these issues they would have inspected it before shipping it out the door jeez....


I don't know if it's already been said but man your best shot at getting totally clear fluid is probably to use distilled water with 4 drops of Mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+ per litre. They're new products from Mayhems that are safe on all metals and each small bottle (the same size as they're dyes) can treat like 30L of fluid. You can use dyes with it if you want colour but over in the Mayhems thread people are using it with plain distilled water (it's intended purpose) and it seems to be working out really well. It ends up a lot cheaper than buying coolant as well and still gives you the same protection against growth and corrosion.


----------



## Jspinks020

Zammin said:


> I don't know if it's already been said but man your best shot at getting totally clear fluid is probably to use distilled water with 4 drops of Mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+ per litre. They're new products from Mayhems that are safe on all metals and each small bottle (the same size as they're dyes) can treat like 30L of fluid. You can use dyes with it if you want colour but over in the Mayhems thread people are using it with plain distilled water (it's intended purpose) and it seems to be working out really well. It ends up a lot cheaper than buying coolant as well and still gives you the same protection against growth and corrosion.


End up with something that looks like real Coolant...like the white/off white machining coolant or something lol. But no nothing should grow in that Concoction.


----------



## Zammin

Jspinks020 said:


> End up with something that looks like real Coolant...like the white/off white machining coolant or something lol. But no nothing should grow in that Concoction.


Really? Hmm I haven't heard anyone using it say that it turns white. All of the people using it seem to really like it so far.


----------



## Jspinks020

Zammin said:


> Really? Hmm I haven't heard anyone using it say that it turns white. All of the people using it seem to really like it so far.


Oh I don't know about theirs's….EK's was pretty white and turned whitish discolored. And concoction in there now turned Whiter but there's a lot of oils in there too. It looks cool like white glitter on one of the hoses etc lol...Ice or something lol


----------



## Jspinks020

I know it's hard to see...but needs adjustment I think it could go darker but like that Glacier The Blue in their white lol...Hard color to get right.


----------



## skupples

Never touched ek fluids stuff, but it seems they suck at anything not directly machining related. Love their blocks n their radiators work!

I use to just use inhibitor and biocide drops before I switched to mayhems... before he had his own simple two part. I think it was the stuff primochill sent with their LRT kits. Liquid utopia?? Idk, a lot of people then also include silver, I never made that mistake. 

Simply put, Mayhem’s tends to make a quality product that works more times than anyone else in the coolant game, and by a large margin. 

It’s a PC loop, you don’t need cryofuel, just quality fittings, clean radiators n blocks, distilled, biocide, & inhibitors. To make it fool proof, I buy X1. 

That XT-1 nuclear reactor coolant looks fine to me, I wouldn’t worry about it.


----------



## feznz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> The other option was Red line water wetter usually located at auto zone.. only a few caps fulls per liter or quart ?
> @Jpmboy is supposedly using this stuff
> 
> Not sure about mayham nuke all I've seen is PTNuke which is not good for nickle plating.



I looked into that years ago the problem is what it actually does it prevents micro bubbles of steam forming which takes alot of heat that only can be found in automotive engines.

It has virtually no anti-corrosive properties recommended for racing because it can be spilled over the racetrack without causing a slipping hazards and need to be changed out about every 3-6 months tops.


All I use now days is Mayhems Pastel useful life expectancy 3 years probably be upgrading componants than a routine maitenance coolant change.


----------



## nycgtr

Home line up being used currently


----------



## CptAsian

nycgtr said:


> Home line up being used currently



Man, those look great, and I'm a sucker for computer group shots. Nice work!


----------



## taowulf

nycgtr said:


> Home line up being used currently


The bears from Goldilocks have the computers they need.


----------



## Jspinks020

Nice...I don't need three...a couple modern builds and I'm happy. End's up usually having some old ones too.


Start Sigging what you're running and works/still works...I probably know what it is and what it can do or not.


----------



## broodro0ster

Jspinks020 said:


> Oh I don't know about theirs's….EK's was pretty white and turned whitish discolored. And concoction in there now turned Whiter but there's a lot of oils in there too. It looks cool like white glitter on one of the hoses etc lol...Ice or something lol


I have the same experience with EK Cryofuel clear. Just get the Mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+. It doesn't have these issues.


----------



## Jspinks020

broodro0ster said:


> I have the same experience with EK Cryofuel clear. Just get the Mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+. It doesn't have these issues.


Biocide a few drops is what it needs. So we don't have something Nasty develop in the hoses. but it's probably alright. You're usual house hold chemicals can definitely stop some growths.


----------



## MikkoM

current system


----------



## sdmf74

Skupples dude did you look at the pic I posted? There is NO WAY that brand new unopened, unexpired bottle of Mayhems xt1 nuke "clear" is supposed to be that dark yellow color lol. Look at the picture on ppcs it shows totally clear.
I spoke with EK & they said that their cryofuel concentrate is supposed to be totally clear but many people are getting this yellow crap & now the mayhems is even darker yellow than the EK. There is no way im putting that urine looking nuke through my new components. I will say the EK cryofuel "premix" always looks & works good but I can't figure out why these brand new concentrates are turning foul?

When they replaced the EK concentrate I ordered premix instead and was trying to decide between the mayhems X1 & XT1 Nuke to buy also. I guess I made the wrong choice going xt1 nuke.

I found another post where someone also got some nasty xt1 nuke and the guy from mayhems supposedly wouldn't replace it and told him its supposed to look that way. I don't believe that for a second, I've never dealt with him but I've heard some bad things about him, dont know if they are true.

I wanna try the regular mayhems xt concentrate but im afraid I'm gonna have a third shipment of bad coolant so I will probably just buy the mayhems inhibitor+ & biocide+ since it supposedly doesn't have copper sulfate in it.

If anybody has any links to posts about making coolant please share, I bet mine would turn out better than what these big companies are shipping out & charging top dollar for.


----------



## skupples

The coolant provider business is a tricky one. Every single one has its’ horror stories. Some their fault, some the customer. 

Your situation is different though, it’s an “issue” right out the bottle. 

As to dealing with mick. Keep it short & sweet “is this normal?” Does his own site call it “clear”? Maybe he’ll define what that means. Pretty sure I remember him having a short fuse though. 

Idk what to say until I see someone post the same thing looking different...

Yes I saw, it looks like reactor coolant.

have you seen DazMode's video for the product?

typically Mick would want a sample if he thought it was defective, he wouldn't just tell them to shove off.


----------



## Zammin

sdmf74 said:


> I found another post where someone also got some nasty xt1 nuke and the guy from mayhems supposedly wouldn't replace it and told him its supposed to look that way. I don't believe that for a second, I've never dealt with him but I've heard some bad things about him, dont know if they are true.
> 
> I wanna try the regular mayhems xt concentrate but im afraid I'm gonna have a third shipment of bad coolant so I will probably just buy the mayhems inhibitor+ & biocide+ since it supposedly doesn't have copper sulfate in it.
> 
> If anybody has any links to posts about making coolant please share, I bet mine would turn out better than what these big companies are shipping out & charging top dollar for.


I can confirm that Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ does not have copper sulfate. I bought some a while back and spoke to Michael at Mayhems about it first to make sure that it was safe for everything. In my talks with him he has been a pretty nice and honest guy but that said, I haven't had to speak with him about any issues with his products yet. He's active over in the Mayhems users club if you wanna speak with him about it.


----------



## Jspinks020

Zammin said:


> I can confirm that Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ does not have copper sulfate. I bought some a while back and spoke to Michael at Mayhems about it first to make sure that it was safe for everything. In my talks with him he has been a pretty nice and honest guy but that said, I haven't had to speak with him about any issues with his products yet. He's active over in the Mayhems users club if you wanna speak with him about it.


Just old way a little bit of Vinegar and like Ammonia...**** especially doesn't develop in something like Ammonia. and the PVC and Vinyl is what you want for chemically stuff...hard tubing is the weirder Plastic's, but not using that ****.


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> If anybody has any links to posts about making coolant please share, I bet mine would turn out better than what these big companies are shipping out & charging top dollar for.


Hi, @toolmaker03 might have some suggestions.


----------



## Jspinks020

You've watched too much **** on the internet really...Pretty rare anything impeding of any sort effecting the loop detrimentally. Most concoction's should hold for some time man...maybe the usual hose staining...But I've never seen a hose get ate into or anything in 20 years...it's PVC/Vinyl like I said quite tolerant to that. 

But most People a year or two tops. change and or clean the stuff. Never knew anyone that went passed that..if I did that like 5 years or something with rubber and mostly Glycol/Glycerin. And yeah it's Nasty when it comes out of there....just say f it and let it run see if we get any corrosion with PVC..or anything else...minor copper amount and that's Nickel on the cpu.

And buy the Larger blocks with less restriction's...There's only like one block I have that maybe could get restricted and plugged up more with concoction's and oils. It's quite small and restrictive, the Haswell block. The Supremacy did outperform it, and there is wayyyy more liquid passing through that one, and would use it again in future builds. 

And well the Byski AM4 Block isn't Restrictive at all and the baseplate is Nickel Mass. It cooled off significantly once I started undervolting and under 1.4v. It's mini heatkiller...but yeah there is Probably better though...doing blocks where like the hole base is part of the mounting too.


----------



## sdmf74

Thanks guys, yeah I saw the daz mode vid. I sent a friendly email over to Mayhems we will see what they say. A sample? Mayhems can have the whole bottle if they want cause Im not gonna use it, Ive got a clear gpu block & big clear reservoir, that stuff would look nasty, not to mention possibly clog my blocks eventually.

Man I swear I cant get a break. The same order I recieved the defective cryofuel I also bought an EK velocity rgb acetal waterblock (to replace my 2 month old bitspower ef-x summit rgb waterblock) and its defective out of the box also!!!

I installed it last night & as soon as I powered up my pc I opened Asus aura to calibrate it with the rest of my leds and it wouldnt display red at all so after scratching my head for a while I touched the rgb cable & bam it flashed red & went back to blue! Defective module or more likely a bad solder on the wires or something. Im so hoping I can get a replacement module rather than having to exchange the whole EK waterblock. Anyway here are some quick cpu block temp comparisons if anyone is interested.

RESULTS OF TEMP COMPARISON OF BITSPOWER SUMMIT EF-X RGB & EK VELOCITY RGB CPU WATERBLOCK

BF1 (1 MATCH)
------------------
BITSPOWER - CPU PACKAGE MAX TEMP 68
VELOCITY - CPU PACKAGE MAX TEMP 66


CINEBENCH
---------------
BITSPOWER - CPU PACKAGE MAX TEMP 67
VELOCITY - CPU PACKAGE MAX TEMP 65


REALBENCH 2.56
------------------
BITSPOWER - CPU PACKAGE MAX TEMP 69
VELOCITY - CPU PACKAGE MAX TEMP 64

SOME OF THE CORES WERE UP TO -6 LOWER WITH THE EK VS THE BITSPOWER BLOCK!


----------



## skupples

You crack me up.

Most of us woulda fixed that ourselves, n never said a thing. 

That old saying, kiss.


----------



## KCDC

sdmf74 said:


> What's the ingrediant in coolant that's usually referred to for lubricating the pump?
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just found out that PG (propylene glycol) is used in astroglide so I guess it is a good lubricant, lol.😊



I think you're talking about the o-ring silicone sealant used with airsoft guns, Dow-33
https://www.amazon.com/Paintball-Lubricant-Grease-Captain-Ring/dp/B00JD3NLL0


I use it every time I do a tear-down by rubbing a tiny amount on every o-ring and if it gets into the fluid a little, no harm as it does lubricate the pump in the process. One tub lasts a lifetime. It's a great step in covering your @ss as it's truly hydrophobic.


----------



## Blackops_2

Switching to hardline tubing and a new case. I went monsoon tubing 1/2x5/8 and fittings so there wouldn't be any issues. I just set all the fittings for the red bag. Checked the tubing via their little card, it is in the middle of the red and white. So i went red, naturally it being the largest PETG tubing monsoon offered. Get all the fittings in place making a straight run and finally get the length right but it feels loose as hell. So i grab another fitting with the white bag of O-rings and collars, much tighter, but i can still pull it out. Am i supposed to be able to pull it out? Am i chamfering too much or something? I mean i feel like it would hold fine with the white bag of O-rings but i was under the impression the mechanical lock was a lot stronger than that?

*edit*

Got it figured out, was getting mixed up with the hard stop fittings.


----------



## sdmf74

skupples said:


> You crack me up.
> 
> Most of us woulda fixed that ourselves, n never said a thing.
> 
> That old saying, kiss.


What Im not allowed to express my bad luck in the forum? Have you seen how small the soldered connections on the velocity rgb module are? I have, but just for a second I really wasnt paying much attention to them
cause I didnt expect the leads would be broken new out of the box & I actually do plan on fixing it myself, but as a backup plan I emailed EK to see if I can get a another module just in case they are too small (its the middle wire). Its still installed & the led plate covers the connections so they arent visible, I didnt feel like breaking my loop down the other night for the 3rd or 4th time in 1 1/2 weeks after a leaky rad, then cracked reservoir, then defective coolant (twice) & now this. Still not sure why thats funny & forbidden to mention.



KCDC said:


> I think you're talking about the o-ring silicone sealant used with airsoft guns, Dow-33
> https://www.amazon.com/Paintball-Lubricant-Grease-Captain-Ring/dp/B00JD3NLL0
> 
> 
> I use it every time I do a tear-down by rubbing a tiny amount on every o-ring and if it gets into the fluid a little, no harm as it does lubricate the pump in the process. One tub lasts a lifetime. It's a great step in covering your @ss as it's truly hydrophobic.


Never seen that stuff before, I just bought some cheap oring silicone from amazon for my flashlights, watch, res orings etc. but Im definately not gonna put dow 33 in my pc coolant. You now how when you buy coolant the company sometimes
brags that by using their coolant rather than DI water it lubes & prolongs the life of the pump, thats what I was referring to, like propylene glycol etc.


----------



## skupples

sweet jesus, that is some terrible luck. You're sure you aren't causing any of this?


----------



## looniam

kick em again skup but this time aim for the nuts!


----------



## sdmf74

skupples said:


> sweet jesus, that is some terrible luck. You're sure you aren't causing any of this?


No the crazy thing is I think ive only had like 1 ssd die on me before, Ive had pretty good luck with components till now. Im really careful installing everything & take care of my components.
The monsta rad was 4.5 years old & the res probably was too it developed very minute hairline cracks but I wasnt gonna take a chance getting another leak. Ive seen lots of posts of res's developing cracks over time
but this is the first time it happened to me. Everything just decided to happen all at once I guess and right at christmas when Im broke from buying gifts lol.

edit: Oh I forgot to mention I had an issue with crappy monsoon fittings, actually the barbs corroded & it made the fittings a pita to remove (known issue with first gen monsoon free center fittings)
I hope its over, everythings been repurchased except for the waterblock & mayhems, the cryofuel was exchanged. The waterblock is still with the 30 day period so I should be able to exchange or just
buy the led module if they are available (& if I cant repair it).


----------



## Ceadderman

Blackops_2 said:


> Switching to hardline tubing and a new case. I went monsoon tubing 1/2x5/8 and fittings so there wouldn't be any issues. I just set all the fittings for the red bag. Checked the tubing via their little card, it is in the middle of the red and white. So i went red, naturally it being the largest PETG tubing monsoon offered. Get all the fittings in place making a straight run and finally get the length right but it feels loose as hell. So i grab another fitting with the white bag of O-rings and collars, much tighter, but i can still pull it out. Am i supposed to be able to pull it out? Am i chamfering too much or something? I mean i feel like it would hold fine with the white bag of O-rings but i was under the impression the mechanical lock was a lot stronger than that?
> 
> *edit*
> 
> Got it figured out, was getting mixed up with the hard stop fittings.


Either change out the tubes to acrylic or ditch your coolant choices. PETG tubing is ethylene glycol based and your coolant choices contain some form of EG in the mix. If you don't you'll run face first headlong into a nuther problem.

Sweet jehsus, so many issues over the last couple months I get cornfoozed as to who is who on my mobile. Wrong guy but the advice is left up for good reason. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Jspinks020

Well look what I found lol....Massive Unit through good 1/4" copper and finned like hell. I can't find any clamps and need to Leak test it....you think them other things were real rads...that thing could run fanless.


----------



## sdmf74

Well I was correct about Mayhems refusing to replace their nasty defective coolant, their email reply is laughable!

Mr wood says that Mayhems stores their coolant at 23c and they dont know what their resellers store it at (first sentence already blaming the reseller) and it could've happened
since it passes over the arctic & african continent during shipping. He also says it is normal for it to change color if stored at above or below these temps and
It will not effect the product in anyway and still can be used.

He makes no mention of how its gonna make me feel when every person that sees my computer or a photo of my computer asks me why I drained my loop then popped open
the reservoir and urinated inside my waterloop instead of using distilled water, cause thats exactly what this garbage Mayhems xt-1 Nuke looks like.

I guess thats the difference between EK & Mayhems, at least EK admitted its a problem and provided customer service. So the rumors about these guys are correct.


----------



## Jspinks020

sdmf74 said:


> Well I was correct about Mayhems refusing to replace their nasty defective coolant, their email reply is laughable!
> 
> Mr wood says that Mayhems stores their coolant at 23c and they dont know what their resellers store it at (first statement already blaming the reseller) and it could've happened
> since it passes over the arctic & african continent during shipping. He also says it is normal for it to change color if stored at above or below these temps and
> It will not effect the product in anyway and still can be used.
> 
> He makes no mention of how its gonna make me feel when every person that sees my computer or a photo of my computer asks me why I drained my loop then popped open
> the reservoir and urinated inside my waterloop instead of using distilled water, cause thats exactly what this garbage Mayhems xt-1 Nuke looks like.



Don't worry about it man...just get some glychol or something...and just mount something like that or lay it up there or whatever. there's a smaller section on the back I need to cut out and cant break the screws loose. Like I said massive 10-12 pipes and that much aluminum...might be slowww pumping through it but...has got a be coollll...absolutely.....just throw it on top the case.


----------



## sdmf74

Jspinks020 said:


> Don't worry about it man...just get some glychol or something...and just mount something like that or lay it up there or whatever. there's a smaller section on the back I need to cut out and cant break the screws loose. Like I said massive 10-12 pipes and that much aluminum...might be slowww pumping through it but...has got a be coollll...absolutely.....just throw it on top the case.


Dude I cant make heads or tails of your posts?


----------



## Jspinks020

sdmf74 said:


> Dude I cant make heads or tails of your posts?


I don't know just thinking of different stuff. That is one of them right there big time lol..block another gpu maybe even 3 of them as well that massive thing. It still wouldn't get even close to heating it up...


----------



## broodro0ster

sdmf74 said:


> Well I was correct about Mayhems refusing to replace their nasty defective coolant, their email reply is laughable!
> 
> Mr wood says that Mayhems stores their coolant at 23c and they dont know what their resellers store it at (first sentence already blaming the reseller) and it could've happened
> since it passes over the arctic & african continent during shipping. He also says it is normal for it to change color if stored at above or below these temps and
> It will not effect the product in anyway and still can be used.
> 
> He makes no mention of how its gonna make me feel when every person that sees my computer or a photo of my computer asks me why I drained my loop then popped open
> the reservoir and urinated inside my waterloop instead of using distilled water, cause thats exactly what this garbage Mayhems xt-1 Nuke looks like.
> 
> I guess thats the difference between EK & Mayhems, at least EK admitted its a problem and provided customer service. So the rumors about these guys are correct.


My Cryofuel was actually also yellow and I used it in my loop a few months ago. Once diluted, it was actually clear and you couldn't see that it was yellow before.
I would mix it up with some distilled and see how it looks like in a reservoir tube. If it's too yellow, throw it away.


----------



## skupples

dude, the stuff is made for sub zero, super hot weirdness, and you're worried about the temps it reaches in a box while on a boat? 

lol.... this is what I meant. '

blaming the reseller out the gate is silly, but that doesn't mean its defective in any way. 

how is something made for extreme temps gonna go belly up from not extreme temps? 

x1 clear isn't clear when its concentrated, you do realize this don't you? I think you're slipping into obsession and hysteria, long past cognizant consumer.

The color shift bit is annoying, but if ALL their dye is subject to this issue, and PPC stores all their dye the same way, wouldn't all their dye be color shifted? *(not defective)

it this point, it seems much more likely you're just being hysterical after one genuinely bad experience with EK's garbage.

I'd recommend diluting a reservoir's portion (with the correct ratio!!!!) and comparing it to what visuals you actually have. 

A.) DazMode video
B.) other users telling you it looks like radioactive urine, but dilutes just fine.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Jspinks020 said:


> Well look what I found lol....Massive Unit through good 1/4" copper and finned like hell. I can't find any clamps and need to Leak test it....you think them other things were real rads...that thing could run fanless.


I dont see how could it run fanless, its has too many fins . Passive radiators are like 8 PPI or less, so the air can move between fins . Dense radiators like your need huge airflow to work.


----------



## KCDC

What's the longest lasting UV dye available now? I've used Mayhems in the past, but only stays strong for about a month or two. Will go into normal distilled with the Primochill Utopia additive. TIA!


----------



## Blze001

Jspinks020 said:


> Well look what I found lol....Massive Unit through good 1/4" copper and finned like hell. I can't find any clamps and need to Leak test it....you think them other things were real rads...that thing could run fanless.


Transmission cooler?

I'd say it would be fun to make a rig that uses an actual car radiator, but I think there is a little bit of a tube size difference.


----------



## crafty615

KCDC said:


> What's the longest lasting UV dye available now? I've used Mayhems in the past, but only stays strong for about a month or two. Will go into normal distilled with the Primochill Utopia additive. TIA!


what did you use from mayhems? My UV Green X1 concentrate has lasted me over 3 years and looks as bright as day 1.

Edit: Just saw that you mentioned dyes. I only have experience with concentrates so not sure what the uv life of dyes are.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Blze001 said:


> Transmission cooler?
> 
> I'd say it would be fun to make a rig that uses an actual car radiator, but I think there is a little bit of a tube size difference.


Also automotive radiators are primarily made out of inexpensive aluminum and plastics, you would have to find older heater-cores as a majority pre '00 were made out of copper.


----------



## Blackops_2

This double 90 bend is killing me :lachen:


----------



## nyk20z3

Blackops_2 said:


> This double 90 bend is killing me :lachen:


Looks good but that 45 coming off the gpu is not level


----------



## CptSpig

Blze001 said:


> Transmission cooler?
> 
> I'd say it would be fun to make a rig that uses an actual car radiator, but I think there is a little bit of a tube size difference.





crafty615 said:


> what did you use from mayhems? My UV Green X1 concentrate has lasted me over 3 years and looks as bright as day 1.
> 
> Edit: Just saw that you mentioned dyes. I only have experience with concentrates so not sure what the uv life of dyes are.


Well this is as close as you will get with computer cooling.


----------



## Blackops_2

nyk20z3 said:


> Blackops_2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This double 90 bend is killing me /forum/images/smilies/lachen.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good but that 45 coming off the gpu is not level
Click to expand...

Yup but i am out of tube lol. It’s been a learning curve to say the least. Took me the entire monsoon pack to start turning out half decent bends. I’ve got some more coming tomorrow. Trying to get it done before i go back to Jackson but i doubt that happens. I suck at bending though.


----------



## KCDC

crafty615 said:


> what did you use from mayhems? My UV Green X1 concentrate has lasted me over 3 years and looks as bright as day 1.
> 
> 
> Edit: Just saw that you mentioned dyes. I only have experience with concentrates so not sure what the uv life of dyes are.


 

I've used the clear/blue UV dye. I've also used their concentrate white pastel that had blue UV, and that didn't last very long either. It seems that it's still the preferred option, but I'm still shopping around.


----------



## nyk20z3

Blackops_2 said:


> Yup but i am out of tube lol. It’s been a learning curve to say the least. Took me the entire monsoon pack to start turning out half decent bends. I’ve got some more coming tomorrow. Trying to get it done before i go back to Jackson but i doubt that happens. I suck at bending though.



You will get better its perfectly normal to go through a bunch of pipe while you learn and GL i think you've done a great job so far.


----------



## Blackops_2

nyk20z3 said:


> You will get better its perfectly normal to go through a bunch of pipe while you learn and GL i think you've done a great job so far.


Thanks bud, i wish i would've started earlier. Been putting it off all break will have to finish at some point during the semester.


----------



## museumman

My Corsair 280X :


----------



## brazilianloser

Nice build above. Good stuff my dude.


----------



## sdmf74

skupples said:


> dude, the stuff is made for sub zero, super hot weirdness, and you're worried about the temps it reaches in a box while on a boat?
> 
> lol.... this is what I meant. '
> 
> blaming the reseller out the gate is silly, but that doesn't mean its defective in any way.
> 
> how is something made for extreme temps gonna go belly up from not extreme temps?
> 
> x1 clear isn't clear when its concentrated, you do realize this don't you? I think you're slipping into obsession and hysteria, long past cognizant consumer.
> 
> The color shift bit is annoying, but if ALL their dye is subject to this issue, and PPC stores all their dye the same way, wouldn't all their dye be color shifted? *(not defective)
> 
> it this point, it seems much more likely you're just being hysterical after one genuinely bad experience with EK's garbage.
> 
> I'd recommend diluting a reservoir's portion (with the correct ratio!!!!) and comparing it to what visuals you actually have.
> 
> A.) DazMode video
> B.) other users telling you it looks like radioactive urine, but dilutes just fine.



Dude what are you trippin on me for? You are acting ridiculous. In a "box while on a boat"? I have no idea what kind of remark this is. I never said it went belly up from not extreme temps,
Why would I say that when I never even put it in my pc? And what makes you think XT1 nuke is only for extreme temps? You keep telling me to watch Daz mode's video & U know I have.
He clearly states in his video that he uses Mayhems clear concentrate in his secondary *UNOVERCLOCKED* workstation that is basically only used for 3d printing, man that must be one beast
of a workstation on LN2 smh. 
Here is the description on the website for your "something that is made for extreme temps" coolant:
**This makes it more suitable to small form factor PC’s, all in one cooling solutions and high heat load systems utilising multiple graphic card array setups.** :thumb:

You said - Im slipping into obsession and hysteria cause "x1 clear isn't clear when its concentrated, you do realize this don't you?" Um Ive never even bought Mayhems X1 coolant for one. And for two
you are completely wrong! You think if mayhems says something it must be true just because they dont want to give a refund or exchange? Thats being naive, besides he didnt say its supposed to be nasty
yellow, he said just the opposite just as EK did & I quote EK said "it should be completely clear" so where are you getting this from? EK also exchanged it w/out question! Mayhems said it wont clog the waterblocks
& "it is ok to use" lol, yeah it might be ok for you & for him if I put nasty yellow coolant in my rig but I bet you both (or anyone in this forum) wouldnt use it in this condition, Well you might. Since you like to point out his video
- daz mode held up his bottle of xt1 clear & it was 100% clear
- he also showed the xt1 UV ocean & xt1 UV sky undiluted in glass vials & it was completely clear as well

I would take your recommendation of diluting it with the correct ratio!!!!!! as you put it but I already did & it looks horrendous, wait you mean the correct ratio listed on the bottle & website that states no less than 10%
& up to 60% or mayhems email reply to me stating to mix it at 5%? mmm wonder why they recommended that, cause at 5% is the only way it would start to look less nasty
There are many threads online with people that recieved yellow "clear" xt1 & almost all of em say it doesnt dilute clear. Ive included some pics for you in case the reading is too confusing.

pic #1 - This is what you call a slight color shift
pic #2 - (Not my pic) another unfortunate customer w/ xt1 after diltuted @ 10% (his concentrate was not nearly as dark yellow as mine either)
pic #3 - water (comparison of pic #2)
pic #4 - advertisement of xt1 nuke (what it should look like)

Whats up with pic posting it used to work perfectly. Now this almost every time > Database Error The Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community database has encountered a problem.


----------



## brazilianloser

Having an issue where the pump is not getting the coolant needed even though the reservoir is above the return input and its full... I have shaken the machine, cyclen on and off several times but just doesn't seem to be doing the job.

I even removed the pump and reservoir from the system and just run a line from the pump the reservoir and it works fine... so not sure what is going on. Any experts with some hints on how to proceed.


----------



## Questors

sdmf74 said:


> Dude what are you trippin on me for? You are acting ridiculous. In a "box while on a boat"? I have no idea what kind of remark this is. I never said it went belly up from not extreme temps,
> Why would I say that when I never even put it in my pc? And what makes you think XT1 nuke is only for extreme temps? You keep telling me to watch Daz mode's video & U know I have.
> He clearly states in his video that he uses Mayhems clear concentrate in his secondary *UNOVERCLOCKED* workstation that is basically only used for 3d printing, man that must be one beast
> of a workstation on LN2 smh.
> Here is the description on the website for your "something that is made for extreme temps" coolant:
> **This makes it more suitable to small form factor PC’s, all in one cooling solutions and high heat load systems utilising multiple graphic card array setups.** :thumb:
> 
> You said - Im slipping into obsession and hysteria cause "x1 clear isn't clear when its concentrated, you do realize this don't you?" Um Ive never even bought Mayhems X1 coolant for one. And for two
> you are completely wrong! You think if mayhems says something it must be true just because they dont want to give a refund or exchange? Thats being naive, besides he didnt say its supposed to be nasty
> yellow, he said just the opposite just as EK did & I quote EK said "it should be completely clear" so where are you getting this from? EK also exchanged it w/out question! Mayhems said it wont clog the waterblocks
> & "it is ok to use" lol, yeah it might be ok for you & for him if I put nasty yellow coolant in my rig but I bet you both (or anyone in this forum) wouldnt use it in this condition, Well you might. Since you like to point out his video
> - daz mode held up his bottle of xt1 clear & it was 100% clear
> - he also showed the xt1 UV ocean & xt1 UV sky undiluted in glass vials & it was completely clear as well
> 
> I would take your recommendation of diluting it with the correct ratio!!!!!! as you put it but I already did & it looks horrendous, wait you mean the correct ratio listed on the bottle & website that states no less than 10%
> & up to 60% or mayhems email reply to me stating to mix it at 5%? mmm wonder why they recommended that, cause at 5% is the only way it would start to look less nasty
> There are many threads online with people that recieved yellow "clear" xt1 & almost all of em say it doesnt dilute clear. Ive included some pics for you in case the reading is too confusing.
> 
> pic #1 - This is what you call a slight color shift
> pic #2 - (Not my pic) another unfortunate customer w/ xt1 after diltuted @ 10% (his concentrate was not nearly as dark yellow as mine either)
> pic #3 - water (comparison of pic #2)
> pic #4 - advertisement of xt1 nuke (what it should look like)
> 
> Whats up with pic posting it used to work perfectly. Now this almost every time > Database Error The Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community database has encountered a problem.


I have Mayhems X1 Clear, both premix and concentrate. It is actually clear in both forms. They are both thicker than water (obvious for concentrate), but still virtually clear. I have experienced no system issues, no block issues, no corrosion, no growths of any kind. 

I did have an issue with a two year old bottle of X1 clear concentrate that was stored in a closet (out of the sun and climate controlled) that produced wisps of translucent matter in the liquid. It mostly settled on the bottom of the bottle, there wasn't lots of it, it just noticeable with some smaller wisps of stuff suspended. I did report this to Mayhems for their benefit. They asked me for pics, so I sent them a couple. 

Side note: It was hard to catch a good pic, I am not a photographer. Not sure why the pic is sideways, it's proper on my PC and was fine the email I sent to Mayhems.


----------



## skupples

here's what I think, now that I've seen a re-release of the same product. 

they (PPC or mayhem) should replace it either way, ugly & not defective, or ugly & defective.

that pic from PPC looks like straight water, even X1 clear isn't that clear, though close.

however, we're talking about nuke, not x1. and unfortunately it seems it's not a common product yet. however, a release for PETG reasons could easily mask some other short coming. 

either way - i've still had the best experiences with mayhem's over anything else. i'll be switching to the new biocide+ when my stockpile of concentrate runs out.


----------



## broodro0ster

brazilianloser said:


> Having an issue where the pump is not getting the coolant needed even though the reservoir is above the return input and its full... I have shaken the machine, cyclen on and off several times but just doesn't seem to be doing the job.
> 
> I even removed the pump and reservoir from the system and just run a line from the pump the reservoir and it works fine... so not sure what is going on. Any experts with some hints on how to proceed.


Fill the res up completely and tilt it 85° to each side for a few seconds. And to this 6 times to each side. You will see a lot of bubbles going to the res. Just be careful that you don't run the pump dry when doing this.


----------



## nycgtr

museumman said:


> My Corsair 280X :


I got the same pump/res in the back of mine of my 280x lol


----------



## skupples

uhg, props to you, working with that black rubber tube. I had such a pita experience using it on a whole system. collapses way easier than LRT

has anyone seen this guide?

http://on-a-rampage.net/blog/watercooling-build-part-3-flushing-radiator/

i decided to google "computer radiator cooling guide" as it's been 5 years since I've done so, thus I was curious about any new techniques *(Besides blitz, since its' always sold out, or acid/basic bath)

anyways, dudes' recommending to use hard core degreaser products, etc.


----------



## brazilianloser

Well figure out my pump issue... Updated my system and moved it from the Define S to the Define S2... Sadly I think the case is not as good as its predecessor.


----------



## Ceadderman

skupples said:


> uhg, props to you, working with that black rubber tube. I had such a pita experience using it on a whole system. collapses way easier than LRT
> 
> has anyone seen this guide?
> 
> http://on-a-rampage.net/blog/watercooling-build-part-3-flushing-radiator/
> 
> i decided to google "computer radiator cooling guide" as it's been 5 years since I've done so, thus I was curious about any new techniques *(Besides blitz, since its' always sold out, or acid/basic bath)
> 
> anyways, dudes' recommending to use hard core degreaser products, etc.



Don't use chemical cleaners other than Blitz. If you want a good cheap degreaser use a 50/50 solution of distilled white vinegar/distilled water and flush it all through and then do 25/75 v:distilled and then do 100 percent distilled to flush out any remaining distilled. I also recommend the same procedure for the shake cleaning. Only do it with hot instead of room temp. 

I never use tap water. Especially today. Say what you want but tap is not to be trusted. Flint Michigan ring any bells? People were drinking that stuff. Imagine the corrosion of your nice shiny loop after flushing with Tap if you lived there. Not to mention how dishonest elected officials are these days. If you wish to trust those people and use Tap, when distilled is so cheap; that's fine. But I ain't the one. :thumb:

I cannot decide which how to is worse...

Rampage or The Verge. Industrial cleaners or Swiss Army knife that hopefully has a screwdriver :lachen:

Sadly this poo is out there and newbs will use the advice. :doh:


~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

my tap is yellow just in the filter bay alone (witlon manors florida) but that's due to how old the pipes are going into the house, not the city water itself. Most modern homes have high micron rated in-line filters though. at least, down here they do. 

I use to setup a sump pump loop for flushing, guess i'll have to find that again. Good to see no one's dispelled the good ol' fashioned. I wish that guy would'a ran that loop he cleaned with industrial for a year straight. I'm curious of what his results would'a been. He's so sure of himself, but the source of the post is so obscure. I could see using a couple drops of some industrial grade etc. or even using some sort of micro-dose of metal cleaner, but... his recommendations are just outlandish.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

sdmf74 said:


> Here is the description on the website for your "something that is made for extreme temps" coolant:
> **This makes it more suitable to small form factor PC’s, all in one cooling solutions and high heat load systems utilising multiple graphic card array setups.** :thumb:


My guess is regarding the 'special characteristics' as opposed to X1 for example (although who knows for sure):


> Mayhems XT-1 when mixed correctly and in the right ratio can go down to a staggering -50 making it the perfect coolant for sub-zero liquid cooling. It is the perfect Coolant for anyone using chillier’s in there systems or any sub ambient type of cooling.


Certainly doesn't mean it can't be used in a normal system - just that it's specifically designed to withstand the rigors of more extreme temperature systems.

I also got a couple of bottles of X1 clear which looked exactly like your XT1 'piss color' - luckily I purchased it locally, and have a good relationship with the company (OutletPC) so I just returned it and had them get me another two bottles which were from another batch... it was _actually_ clear and remained that way for well over a year. I've purchased another 6 liters since then and never gotten another yellow one.

I agree they should replace it. Although I have mostly had good luck with their products and will continue to use them, I think their customer service is terrible and I blame that on Mick 100%. It's way better now than before, but there's way too much "everything we make is perfect, it's someone else's fault" any time there's a problem. That was his response to me when I emailed about my X1. 

I prefer companies that have the (now anachronistic) approach of "the customer is always right". When I'm dealing with a client that's obviously doing something wrong... I still try to find a solution they can be happy with. Obviously, there is a point at which it's more economically feasible to just tell them to walk - but for something with as high a profit margin as cooling fluids... that shouldn't occur until the 5th or 6th similar incident. 


The pictures thing has been broken for awhile - as long as you use the 'advanced' editor it works better.


----------



## Gilles3000

brazilianloser said:


> Updated my system and moved it from the Define S to the Define S2... Sadly I think the case is not as good as its predecessor.


Was actually considering the S2 for my next system, what do you think is worse about it than the original S?


----------



## brazilianloser

Gilles3000 said:


> Was actually considering the S2 for my next system, what do you think is worse about it than the original S?


So here were the issues I was unpleased about it.
- Top radiator mount has two rolls that can be used with lets say 360 radiator. But if you use the one that is closer to the window as I did then you wont be able to put the top piece back in. So yeah this limits you to only very low profile ram and limits you on motherboard choices as well. (see picture)
- Front radiator mount once again is very limiting compared to the original S. The original S had four little slots that you could move your radiator up and down on which was more freedom than the three now found on the S2. I am only able to screw in four screws when the radiator is at a workable height and was still not the height I wanted it to have it. (see picture)
- Included fans could have been PWM versions. 
- Top metal piece once separated from the dust filter will bend like if it was a piece of paper. So be extremely careful. Also the reservoir mount things will bend extremely easily too. 

If they had done a better job at mounting options on both top and front I would have been happier. And the not being able to put the dust filter back on top was just baffling. I can't believe no one during testing had this occur... Just using regular radiator screws. Had a few more beefs with it but they are escaping my memory at this moment.


----------



## Gilles3000

brazilianloser said:


> So here were the issues I was unpleased about it.
> - Top radiator mount has two rolls that can be used with lets say 360 radiator. But if you use the one that is closer to the window as I did then you wont be able to put the top piece back in. So yeah this limits you to only very low profile ram and limits you on motherboard choices as well. (see picture)
> - Front radiator mount once again is very limiting compared to the original S. The original S had four little slots that you could move your radiator up and down on which was more freedom than the three now found on the S2. I am only able to screw in four screws when the radiator is at a workable height and was still not the height I wanted it to have it. (see picture)
> - Included fans could have been PWM versions.
> - Top metal piece once separated from the dust filter will bend like if it was a piece of paper. So be extremely careful. Also the reservoir mount things will bend extremely easily too.
> 
> If they had done a better job at mounting options on both top and front I would have been happier. And the not being able to put the dust filter back on top was just baffling. I can't believe no one during testing had this occur... Just using regular radiator screws. Had a few more beefs with it but they are escaping my memory at this moment.


Seems like most of those problems would be non- issues for me, considering I'll be using 140mm fans. Its actually a little better considering less of the 120mm mounts will be blocking the fans. 

I don't mind the included fans just being DC either, would rather they keep the cost down on the because fractal's fans are that great anyway.

But I agree its pretty unfortunate for people using 120mm size fans/rads.

I don't quite get why the top dust filter doesn't go back on tho, does it interfere with your radiator screws? Its the first time I've heard about this issue as well.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Gilles3000 said:


> Seems like most of those problems would be non- issues for me, considering I'll be using 140mm fans. Its actually a little better considering less of the 120mm mounts will be blocking the fans.
> 
> I don't mind the included fans just being DC either, would rather they keep the cost down on the because fractal's fans are that great anyway.
> 
> But I agree its pretty unfortunate for people using 120mm size fans/rads.
> 
> I don't quite get why the top dust filter doesn't go back on tho, does it interfere with your radiator screws? Its the first time I've heard about this issue as well.


check clearance for 140mm rad up top, if it was anything like my Define R6, i ran into clearance issues with my DDR3 Dom Plats and EK Mosfet block and had to sell my 280 rad for a slim 240 rad.. but judging by the pics of the S2 the top looks untouched compared to the R6 so im sure its the same issues.


----------



## brazilianloser

Man keep getting them database erros on this site all the time... nothing like typing a response 3 times...

Anyways. Agree that for most those issues would be irrelevant. My original plan was for the 240 to go at the bottom with the three included fans as intake. But sadly the combination of my 240 and my psu don't work. Too long of a PSU. Then I tried a single 120 at the bottom but the weird alignment of top, front and bottom just would require bends or lots of fittings. Wish they had made all three more aligned but just preference. So when all that failed I went with the same setup as I had on my Define S. But I flipped the 240 upside down compared to before due to the front mounting restriction. I couldn't mount the 240 at the height where I could set up the loop identical as before. But I made it work.

Now the top thing even with 140mm fans you will encounter the issue where the top doesn't go back in. Its that outside rail that interferes with the top mesh/plate going back in. If you mount on the inside rail there are zero problems. And I am just using the usual screws that comes with all radiators/aio and what not. Low profile screws...??? I don't know.

And yeah the back portion space is much tighter compared to the S. Had to get them wires nice and flat in there.


----------



## Zammin

brazilianloser said:


> So here were the issues I was unpleased about it.
> - Top radiator mount has two rolls that can be used with lets say 360 radiator. But if you use the one that is closer to the window as I did then you wont be able to put the top piece back in. So yeah this limits you to only very low profile ram and limits you on motherboard choices as well. (see picture)
> - Front radiator mount once again is very limiting compared to the original S. The original S had four little slots that you could move your radiator up and down on which was more freedom than the three now found on the S2. I am only able to screw in four screws when the radiator is at a workable height and was still not the height I wanted it to have it. (see picture)
> - Included fans could have been PWM versions.
> - Top metal piece once separated from the dust filter will bend like if it was a piece of paper. So be extremely careful. Also the reservoir mount things will bend extremely easily too.
> 
> If they had done a better job at mounting options on both top and front I would have been happier. And the not being able to put the dust filter back on top was just baffling. I can't believe no one during testing had this occur... Just using regular radiator screws. Had a few more beefs with it but they are escaping my memory at this moment.





Gilles3000 said:


> Seems like most of those problems would be non- issues for me, considering I'll be using 140mm fans. Its actually a little better considering less of the 120mm mounts will be blocking the fans.
> 
> I don't mind the included fans just being DC either, would rather they keep the cost down on the because fractal's fans are that great anyway.
> 
> But I agree its pretty unfortunate for people using 120mm size fans/rads.
> 
> I don't quite get why the top dust filter doesn't go back on tho, does it interfere with your radiator screws? Its the first time I've heard about this issue as well.


The top radiator thing has me a bit confused as well, I've seen a lot of builds on youtube done in this case with 360 rads in the top and in the position furthest from the motherboard and it seemed to work fine for them. Could it be that the type of screws are interfering with the top panel? I Just received my S2 today, I might grab one of my spare 360 rads and test fit it to see if I can replicate what you're talking about.


----------



## brazilianloser

Don't know what to say. I got the usual radiator screws that come with most rads/aios... nothing special. The piece just hits the screws and doesn't engage in. I could easily cut a piece of the plastic on the top and mount it... but i just put the dust filter i had for the S and called it a day.


----------



## Zammin

brazilianloser said:


> Don't know what to say. I got the usual radiator screws that come with most rads/aios... nothing special. The piece just hits the screws and doesn't engage in. I could easily cut a piece of the plastic on the top and mount it... but i just put the dust filter i had for the S and called it a day.


I just test fit a EK PE 360 in mine using the screws provided by EK and it all closed up properly. I had to give the radiator tray a bit of a push down to get it to click in properly otherwise the vent wouldn't completely close. But once it was all in place it closed fine. I have to say the moduvent is a pain in the ass to take apart and the finish on the case really attracts fingerprints lol. But otherwise it looks really nice. Looking forward to moving my previous system into it.


----------



## brazilianloser

Guess I need to try a bit more force then... A bit unnecessary though.


----------



## Zammin

brazilianloser said:


> Guess I need to try a bit more force then... A bit unnecessary though.


Maybe check if the little hook tabs on the side of the radiator tray closest to the back panel are properly hooked all the way in. That's what it was for me I think. They needed to be pushed down to kind of "pop" into place. Alternatively, make sure all your rad screws are the same and fairly low profile. Maybe even use flat top screws if you can. The EK ones that came with my rad have really low profile tops. Those two things are about all I can think of, I only just got my case today so I'm just taking guesses at this point. Best of luck mate.


----------



## alienalvan

*Lazy Water Cooling Method (-__-")*

Having existing AIO attached & lazy to undo it, so I take the shortcut just hard tube both GTX 1080 Ti.


----------



## Gilles3000

brazilianloser said:


> Guess I need to try a bit more force then... A bit unnecessary though.


I don't think you need more force, just different screws. The XSPC ones seem to have a really tall head compared to the ones used by other manufacturers. 

Not sure why XSPC felt the need to use hex head screws for a radiator, its not like they need much force.


----------



## sdmf74

Questors said:


> I have Mayhems X1 Clear, both premix and concentrate. It is actually clear in both forms. They are both thicker than water (obvious for concentrate), but still virtually clear. I have experienced no system issues, no block issues, no corrosion, no growths of any kind.
> 
> I did have an issue with a two year old bottle of X1 clear concentrate that was stored in a closet (out of the sun and climate controlled) that produced wisps of translucent matter in the liquid. It mostly settled on the bottom of the bottle, there wasn't lots of it, it just noticeable with some smaller wisps of stuff suspended. I did report this to Mayhems for their benefit. They asked me for pics, so I sent them a couple.
> 
> Side note: It was hard to catch a good pic, I am not a photographer. Not sure why the pic is sideways, it's proper on my PC and was fine the email I sent to Mayhems.


When I first got my XT1 nuke I was looking online to see what was going on, why it was so discolored and I came across at least one other person that had those growths or whatever
suspended in the x1. Not sure what that is but I hope you didnt use it. When I spoke with Mayhems I asked them if I would be safe trying out the X1 instead of the XT1 & they said that the X1 is actually
more susceptable to the discoloration/yellowing issue than the XT1 nuke, so if I ever use Mayhems products again it will be only Biocide+ & Inhibitor+, its just too much of a pain to have to create
an RMA for coolant & no one wants to be out $20-$30 + another $10-$15 for shipping.

I wanted to point out though Performancepcs has provided great customer service any time I have had an issue & their communication throughout has been spot on!



skupples said:


> here's what I think, now that I've seen a re-release of the same product.
> 
> they (PPC or mayhem) should replace it either way, ugly & not defective, or ugly & defective.
> 
> that pic from PPC looks like straight water, even X1 clear isn't that clear, though close.
> 
> however, we're talking about nuke, not x1. and unfortunately it seems it's not a common product yet. however, a release for PETG reasons could easily mask some other short coming.
> 
> either way - i've still had the best experiences with mayhem's over anything else. i'll be switching to the new biocide+ when my stockpile of concentrate runs out.


I dont disagree with you about the PETG but one of the main reasons I bought the nuke was cause it specifically mentions that it is 100% compatible with my EK ZMT tubing, well that and
the fact that it is supposed to drop temps a degree or two (according to daz mode) & have a shelf life of 7 YEARS! (they may want to retract that claim lol).

Ive never had an issue with ZMT (I think it was you that mentioned it was a pita to work with) perhaps you were using a different size, mine is 10/16mm.

skupples Just because you have always had good luck with mayhems concentrate doesnt mean that others cant recieve a bad product from them, and yes I do consider what I recieved to be defective, after
all the definition of defective is "imperfect or faulty" whether you & Mayhems agrees with it or not.


----------



## bluedevil

Delete.


----------



## Zammin

sdmf74 said:


> When I first got my XT1 nuke I was looking online to see what was going on, why it was so discolored and I came across at least one other person that had those growths or whatever
> suspended in the x1. Not sure what that is but I hope you didnt use it. When I spoke with Mayhems I asked them if I would be safe trying out the X1 instead of the XT1 & they said that the X1 is actually
> more susceptable to the discoloration/yellowing issue than the XT1 nuke, so if I ever use Mayhems products again it will be only Biocide+ & Inhibitor+, its just too much of a pain to have to create
> an RMA for coolant & no one wants to be out $20-$30 + another $10-$15 for shipping.
> 
> I wanted to point out though Performancepcs has provided great customer service any time I have had an issue & their communication throughout has been spot on!
> 
> 
> 
> I dont disagree with you about the PETG but one of the main reasons I bought the nuke was cause it specifically mentions that it is 100% compatible with my EK ZMT tubing, well that and
> the fact that it is supposed to drop temps a degree or two (according to daz mode) & have a shelf life of 7 YEARS! (they may want to retract that claim lol).
> 
> Ive never had an issue with ZMT (I think it was you that mentioned it was a pita to work with) perhaps you were using a different size, mine is 10/16mm.
> 
> skupples Just because you have always had good luck with mayhems concentrate doesnt mean that others cant recieve a bad product from them, and yes I do consider what I recieved to be defective, after
> all the definition of defective is "imperfect or faulty" whether you & Mayhems agrees with it or not.


Might be worth contacting Mayhems again now that he put out this comment today:



Mayhem said:


> A little update had to pull all the XT-1 Nuke 250ml "Clear" versions that have the Petg blocker in them. The fluid colour has turned a little orange in concentrated colour but obv this is not what you expect from our products. So were revamping it a little more, all the colours and variants are perfectly fine but would love clear to be as near to clear as possible. If any one has this issue please contact me via support and we will replace the fluid free of charge as per the norm. As said there its just a colour shift not a actual problem and it works as expected and it may be down to us making it very very strong  haha need to stop doing that.


----------



## Zammin

Actually, I just realised he mentioned the PETG blocker version of the product. Not sure if that still applies.


----------



## TeslaHUN

I finished my desk pc build .
A short video about how silent is it :




6x 200mm fan on 300 rpm (even on full load they wont spin up more )


----------



## brazilianloser

Gilles3000 said:


> I don't think you need more force, just different screws. The XSPC ones seem to have a really tall head compared to the ones used by other manufacturers.
> 
> Not sure why XSPC felt the need to use hex head screws for a radiator, its not like they need much force.


Yeah by looking at that other homes picture his screw heads are a lot more low profile them the XSPC ones for sure. I was able to force the top in but there is a little buldge on one of the spots. Will try to get them lower profile screws.


----------



## CptSpig

TeslaHUN said:


> I finished my desk pc build .
> A short video about how silent is it :
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p40j1-VqpCg&feature=youtu.be
> 6x 200mm fan on 300 rpm (even on full load they wont spin up more )


Very Nice! :thumb:


----------



## skupples

Would you trust it?

I’ve always been anal n gone name brand - but the Publix water says it’s been thru both processes.


----------



## Ceadderman

skupples said:


> Would you trust it?
> 
> I’ve always been anal n gone name brand - but the Publix water says it’s been thru both processes.


Dunno. I have always gone with WalMart distilled and it works great.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## b0z0

Just finished my Lian Li PC-011 dynamic build. 9900k, z390 MSI Carbon, EVGA 1080ti


----------



## Ceadderman

b0z0 said:


> Just finished my Lian Li PC-011 dynamic build. 9900k, z390 MSI Carbon, EVGA 1080ti


Looks good but is that GPU to CPU leg nerfed at the GPU 90° point? Looks like it collapsed a little on the inside bend. :mellowsmi 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

Something weird just happened while draining my test loop. 

I unhooked the radiator at the end, tipped it up, & all the water in the reservoir vanished without any exiting the loop. 

It’s been running for 12 hours & I coulda sworn all the water was out, but I guess I’m wrong. Where else would a 300mm tube worth of water go...


----------



## b0z0

Ceadderman said:


> Looks good but is that GPU to CPU leg nerfed at the GPU 90° point? Looks like it collapsed a little on the inside bend. :mellowsmi
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


It looks worse due to the angle. I'm planning on redoing that bend when I get more PETG Tubing in this week. I was racking my head weather to go with clear or white coolant. Decided to stay clear since it looks good.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

skupples said:


> Something weird just happened while draining my test loop.
> 
> I unhooked the radiator at the end, tipped it up, & all the water in the reservoir vanished without any exiting the loop.
> 
> It’s been running for 12 hours & I coulda sworn all the water was out, but I guess I’m wrong. Where else would a 300mm tube worth of water go...



On the counter? Dunno seriously as a 300mm reservoir holds more water than most radiators can unless they're huge. Regardless that's like a third of a liter of water almost... not something that you could miss unless it drained when you weren't looking.


If you have several rads and didn't tilt/shake any of them to start with, then you could have that much air-void area in the rads... but it usually works the other way (i.e. when you stop the pump the reservoir _gains_ water, not lose all of it). :headscrat


----------



## skupples

They’re 4x 480x45-60. Definitely didn’t leak anywhere. You woulda heard that kinda water coming out. 

I guess there was a really stubborn pocket left so where even tho it ran all night at full tilt. MCP35x2 (turns out my home made pwm splitter failed. Pumps are still super clean after 5 years. Almost no wear on the impeller).

It holds just under a gallon, as it used to. It’s like a black hole formed.


----------



## boli

I recently added some Aqua Computer gear to my build (previous version shown here), namely an Aquaero 6 LT, as well as a water temperature sensor, a flow meter, and some air temperature sensors.

The Aquaero I just screwed to this latch in the back:








The Aquaero is barely visible when closed:








There is an air temperature sensor outside the front 420 rad (cool air input):








There's another air temperature sensor in the middle of the case (not shown), and above the top 280 radiator (hot air output):








As I'm using a tiny ITX board in a mid tower case, there was a lot of unused space below the PCI slots. Because of this, and also because I am/was likely to put a much beefier water block on my GPU later on, I decided to mount the GPU vertically.

The case was ready for this, but I did have to buy the cable. At 22cm it only reaches my PCIe slot when it's in the position further away from the side window. 

Fortunately this still gave me opportunity to add the water temperature sensor as well as the flow meter in a convenient location:








The two new sensors are more or less hidden from sight by the GPU water block (still the EK Vector, the AC one is on back order):








The real killer is the Aquasuite though. I previously used Argus Monitor to control my PWM pump and fans using my motherboards headers, based on GPU temperature.

With the new water temperature sensor I can finally control the fans "properly" based on the delta between water and ambient air:








The functionality and information I'm very happy with, though I do think that it could look a little prettier.


----------



## davidm71

*My latest and greatest*

Just wanted to share my recent adventure in water cooling. A few years ago I bought a couple EK Classy 980Ti KPE water blocks but didnt have the guts to use them considering how expensive those cards were back then. Well finally after having them sit on the back burner I got it going finally:










Was not without leaks however. Found my EK FC Terminal bridge a leaky piece of spare parts I will never use again:













Thankfully the distalled water caused no damage. Forgot to put the EK decorative insert in the resevoir but no big deal...


----------



## KCDC

davidm71 said:


> Just wanted to share my recent adventure in water cooling. A few years ago I bought a couple EK Classy 980Ti KPE water blocks but didnt have the guts to use them considering how expensive those cards were back then. Well finally after having them sit on the back burner I got it going finally:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was not without leaks however. Found my EK FC Terminal bridge a leaky piece of spare parts I will never use again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully the distalled water caused no damage. Forgot to put the EK decorative insert in the resevoir but no big deal...



The FC terminal leaked because you're missing the o-rings for those in/outlets. You're supposed to reuse the ones from the original in/outlet ports from the block that you took off. I made the same mistake at first.


----------



## skupples

Yep. That EK system could definitely benefit from an overhaul. The margin of error on those tiny o-rings is nil.... assuming you installed them.


----------



## broodro0ster

boli said:


> I recently added some Aqua Computer gear to my build (previous version shown here), namely an Aquaero 6 LT, as well as a water temperature sensor, a flow meter, and some air temperature sensors.




The Aquaero is instead superb and better than anything else to control a water loop.
Here are 2 tips for you to try:

1. Try a set point controller for the fans. Based on your screenshots, a good starting value would be 13°C and add all your fans to it. The controller will calculate how fast the fans need to spin to keep that delta. This means a super silent computer at idle and low workloads. Or even heavy CPU only workloads. 

2. Change your top fans to intake and add an exhaust fan in the back. This dropped my watertemps by 5°C.

Here is a screenshot of my controller setup. Don't look at the pump control. It's a little more advance and requires you have a temp sensor before and the rad. But the logic behind is that my pump runs at very slow speeds. Once my system starts generating heat and the water temps raises more than 2°C between the hottest and coldest point in the loop, the power kicks in and my D5 pump goes to 3500rpm. And once the load is gone, the difference between the hottest and coldest in the loop will go quickly under 0.5C and the pump slows down again. I've set an upper and lower limit for my pump via the PWM control limits. This allows me to choose 2 fixed pump RPMS where vibrations are low. Because at some low speeds, my pump is louder than at higher speeds.


----------



## trn

skupples said:


> Would you trust it?
> 
> I’ve always been anal n gone name brand - but the Publix water says it’s been thru both processes.


Publix also has distilled water, I always grab the distilled.


----------



## boli

broodro0ster said:


> 1. Try a set point controller for the fans. Based on your screenshots, a good starting value would be 13°C and add all your fans to it. The controller will calculate how fast the fans need to spin to keep that delta. This means a super silent computer at idle and low workloads. Or even heavy CPU only workloads.


Thanks for the hints! I gave this one a try, and it looks promising – will experiment more with it. 



> 2. Change your top fans to intake and add an exhaust fan in the back. This dropped my watertemps by 5°C.


Woot, 5°C is an awful lot. Interesting that this works so well, given how unbalanced intake vs exhaust becomes this way. Also I wonder how well this works in the Evolv X, as its top is more restrictive than your R6 top, but will give it a try. I used to have a single back exhaust fan too, but didn't add it back during my last change.

For convenience I'll just turn over the top fans, so they'll pull instead of push. If it helps I might swap their position with the rad so they're push again on my next big change (when the AC water block gets here).



> Here is a screenshot of my controller setup. Don't look at the pump control. It's a little more advance and requires you have a temp sensor before and the rad. But the logic behind is that my pump runs at very slow speeds. Once my system starts generating heat and the water temps raises more than 2°C between the hottest and coldest point in the loop, the power kicks in and my D5 pump goes to 3500rpm. And once the load is gone, the difference between the hottest and coldest in the loop will go quickly under 0.5C and the pump slows down again. I've set an upper and lower limit for my pump via the PWM control limits. This allows me to choose 2 fixed pump RPMS where vibrations are low. Because at some low speeds, my pump is louder than at higher speeds.


Interesting setup, thanks for sharing. My stair-shaped pump control curve attempts to reduce vibrations as well, but I need to find the proper plateaus and simplify it to maybe 3 steps.


----------



## broodro0ster

boli said:


> Thanks for the hints! I gave this one a try, and it looks promising – will experiment more with it.
> 
> 
> 
> Woot, 5°C is an awful lot. Interesting that this works so well, given how unbalanced intake vs exhaust becomes this way. Also I wonder how well this works in the Evolv X, as its top is more restrictive than your R6 top, but will give it a try. I used to have a single back exhaust fan too, but didn't add it back during my last change.
> 
> For convenience I'll just turn over the top fans, so they'll pull instead of push. If it helps I might swap their position with the rad so they're push again on my next big change (when the AC water block gets here).
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting setup, thanks for sharing. My stair-shaped pump control curve attempts to reduce vibrations as well, but I need to find the proper plateaus and simplify it to maybe 3 steps.


Maybe we have to move this to the Aquaero thread since this is the showcase topic 

I the first generation of my loop, I had a 360 radiator in the front of my case as intake. Then I bought the Aquaero 6LT to have better control and monitoring of my loop. At the same time I ordered the Aquaero, I also bought a second radiator, but didn't had the time to take apart my loop and modify it. So I kept running with a single rad for a few more days, but with the Aquaero installed. My water sensor was already in place since my mobo has a temperature port as well.

In this config (1x 360 rad, D5, CPU and GPU in the loop), my delta was 16°C while playing ACO. A few days later I installed the second 360 rad in the top and my delta dropped by 3°C at the same fan speeds. I was seriously disappointed since I spend a lot of money and only gained 3°C. People on Reddit said that the air coming of the intake rads is barely water than ambient so I trusted them. But since my gains were so bad, I started to doubt them. 

With the Aquaero and the 4 included temp sensors, I started meassuring different positions around the front radiator that works as an intake. The air coming out of the front rad was actually a lot hotter than room temp and almost as warm as the water temp. No surprise that my gains from extra rad were so bad if air going through it is almost as hot as the water temp. My results from my own tests were in line with the radiator testing from Xtermerigs. On page 4 of their rad reviews, there is always a table that states the in/out air temps the effifcieny is between 75-90% of most rads, which saturates the air almost completely.
So I flipped my fans on the top rad from push to pull and make it work as intake rad. After running some benches and playing some games, my delta T was only 8°C instead of 13°C. Now I was happy with results of my second radiator since my delta was now 50% of what it was before with 1 rad. And I was aiming for a 10°C delta, so this was better than my expectations.

Although the airflow inside the case is a little worse with a all the intakes and only 1 exhaust, the air coming inside the case is also 5°C lower now, so components temps like VRM, NVME, ... aren't worse than with intake/exhaust.

I don't have experience with the Evolve X, but I think you can flip you fans around if you have small screw driver without have to remove the rad from the case. So it should only like 10-20min to do this test. 
Please let me know your results because I'm interested in it, but I think you'll see better temps. And in my case, the temps also stabilised a lot quicker. 


As for the pump, that is also how I did it in the beginning, but when your on the "edge" of a step, the pump is speeding up and down all the time which I didn't like. So with the 2 point controller, you can set a different "set point" for heating up and cooling off. This solved the issue with the pump speeding up and down all the time when I was just on the edge. 
But I guess you also set it up based on delta T. For example when you hit 10°C you go to your fast speed and when you go back under 6°C, you slow down again. You just need to set a PWM upper and lower limit for your pump with the desired PWM signal. The Aquaero can save 4 profiles, so you can always create a profile for testing until you found that works better. 

Good luck with your testing and please let me know how it went 

EDIT: To find the most silent RPM's of you pump, switch to a test profile and create 2 preset controllers. Add your fans to 1 controller and set it to the minium speed. Then add you pump to the other controller and go from 0-100% in steps of 1% and try to find the quite RPM's. Note the RPM's and not the %, since the % value can depending on the setup of your PWM devices.


----------



## nycgtr

Mayhems x1 black. Hands down best black out there.


----------



## skupples

In FTL (sunrise ave) this is all the carry for generic distilled. According to them. I’m assuming it would be fine, but didn’t care to find out. 
Here’s what 5 years looks like inside whatever the previous version of LRT was. Gravity is an interesting thing. Only the down sides of the tubes have any real build up n it seems to be mostly “grime” (stuck on dirt/dust) probably me fault, always leaving the res cap off.


----------



## davidm71

KCDC said:


> davidm71 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to share my recent adventure in water cooling. A few years ago I bought a couple EK Classy 980Ti KPE water blocks but didnt have the guts to use them considering how expensive those cards were back then. Well finally after having them sit on the back burner I got it going finally:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was not without leaks however. Found my EK FC Terminal bridge a leaky piece of spare parts I will never use again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully the distalled water caused no damage. Forgot to put the EK decorative insert in the resevoir but no big deal...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The FC terminal leaked because you're missing the o-rings for those in/outlets. You're supposed to reuse the ones from the original in/outlet ports from the block that you took off. I made the same mistake at first.
Click to expand...


I swear there were o-rings in there. I will double check. In anycase if thats the case i'll still be missing two for the dummy blank terminal in the middle but i swear it has orings.


----------



## skupples

Hmmm, not 100% on the blank. Going to their site should result in finding a packaging list to let you know. 

The o-rings for the card slots are re-used from the bolt on side pieces, but I only ever used the models specifically for my layout, so no spacers, thus not sure on what thepart includes. 

Either way - it’s a pita to setup. I ended up just getting the teliscoping SLI extenders & the precut acrylics.


----------



## Ceadderman

skupples said:


> Hmmm, not 100% on the blank. Going to their site should result in finding a packaging list to let you know.
> 
> The o-rings for the card slots are re-used from the bolt on side pieces, but I only ever used the models specifically for my layout, so no spacers, thus not sure on what thepart includes.
> 
> Either way - it’s a pita to setup. I ended up just getting the teliscoping SLI extenders & the precut acrylics.


Bridges simply do not ship with the o-rings. They come with the block(s) and you reuse them. I wish EK didn't cheap out on such cheap parts. O-rings have to cost less than .25¢ per since they are bulk priced for distribution purposes. Ridiculously narrowminded as the likely have shipped quite a few to owners over the years upon request. Shipping ain't cheap. A cost saving measure that costs them more now that stamps are .50¢ each. :doh:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## davidm71

Ceadderman said:


> Bridges simply do not ship with the o-rings. They come with the block(s) and you reuse them. I wish EK didn't cheap out on such cheap parts. O-rings have to cost less than .25¢ per since they are bulk priced for distribution purposes. Ridiculously narrowminded as the likely have shipped quite a few to owners over the years upon request. Shipping ain't cheap. A cost saving measure that costs them more now that stamps are .50¢ each. :doh:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:



Your right they are missing the o-rings. I just checked. Fn unbelievable they would pull this $hit. I can't explain how angry I am about this. Its bs. They should have included orings in the box. What would it cost them an additional 50 cents at best. Seriously whats wrong with them!


----------



## poisson21

Hello, i'm searching advice, i will soon (hopefully) redo my loop and want to add a second pump for redundancy ,because i'll add 2 sr2 560 to my mora3 420 (yeah i know overkill).
I know that for temperature the order in the loop doesn't change anything, are they any change in water flow if you put your pump at different place in your loop ?
Actually i have my cpu monoblock and my 2 gpu in parallel (with parallel bridge) and intent to use a waterway to distribute water same way.
It will be res>pump1>waterway in>monoblock+gpu>waterway out>sr2>sr2>mora3>res.
My first thought was to put the second pump between the second sr2 and the mora.
What are your thought about it ?


----------



## skupples

I need some advice. I’ve plumbed myself into a wall. I’m trying to stuff 2x P/P 480x45s into the bottom of my STH10, which also feed into the front radiator. 

Pump goes down, then I’ve gotta figure out the best order for connecting all 3 before they take the passthtru up to the board. 🤔

I rather not tap new hole, however the pass through to the left is on the 120.1 plate, so it can pivot some if needed

I think I’m gonna have to pull out the bottom plate (for pedistol access) n work from it upside down, either way 😂

Pic from the bottom included. It makes a little more sense now. The middle port is the pump. I may just be lazy n save this rad n bank of fans for an external rad box for my lan box.


----------



## broodro0ster

skupples said:


> I need some advice. I’ve plumbed myself into a wall. I’m trying to stuff 2x P/P 480x45s into the bottom of my STH10, which also feed into the front radiator.
> 
> Pump goes down, then I’ve gotta figure out the best order for connecting all 3 before they take the passthtru up to the board. 🤔
> 
> I rather not tap new hole, however the pass through to the left is on the 120.1 plate, so it can pivot some if needed
> 
> I think I’m gonna have to pull out the bottom plate (for pedistol access) n work from it upside down, either way 😂
> 
> Pic from the bottom included. It makes a little more sense now. The middle port is the pump. I may just be lazy n save this rad n bank of fans for an external rad box for my lan box.


Don't do it. Having the warm air from 1 radiator going into the other one will only gain you 1-2°C watertemps at max.
Just put one in the bottom and feed it with clean, cool air. Add some intakes to the front for fresh air and put the other 480 in the top. Make sure the pedestal is sealed from the upper compartment. This will give you the best temps.


----------



## skupples

You’re misunderstanding. They’ll both be blowing in. There’s no pedisdal - I’m just accessing them from the bottom pedestal hole. (Case is upside down in photo) 

It’s xoming along ...

So basically pump > right rad > left rad > front rad > up to board. All three drawing fresh air. Blowing in. Then board to top rad to res. (I’ve got plenty of pump power) 

I may end up leaving the bottom off, OR having my buddy cut slits into it. We’ll see how the temps are

I had dual radiators up top last time around, both blowing in, but the top has a giant vent - as we all know. 

Fingers bloody. Time for a break

Edit : break over - got it all sorted. Definitely retiring my massive collection of soft tube BP compression fittings the next time I rebuild.


----------



## DarthBaggins

skupples said:


> Would you trust it?
> 
> I’ve always been anal n gone name brand - but the Publix water says it’s been thru both processes.


Nope go with Distilled, purified still has minerals in it. Since you're going to Publix I'd pick up the Deer Park Distilled (states on the label "Safe for small appliances")


----------



## skupples

Yeaaah that label also said the same & “works inplace of distilled” 

I it’s good enough for CPAP, but idk about us. (there should be a similar kinda requirement or higher for CPAP ) as an old man told me his dr told him either ones fine for his machine, today at the store. 

I went with Crystal - it’s all they seem to carry at my closest location.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The Crystal Distilled is fine too, I've noticed the Deer Park isn't always the easiest to find


----------



## ChiTownButcher

skupples said:


> Yeaaah that label also said the same & “works inplace of distilled”
> 
> I it’s good enough for CPAP, but idk about us. (there should be a similar kinda requirement or higher for CPAP ) as an old man told me his dr told him either ones fine for his machine, today at the store.
> 
> I went with Crystal - it’s all they seem to carry at my closest location.


CPAP (I have one) should be distilled only but I would be more particular with my loop than my CPAP. You clean your CPAP daily with cold tap water and baby shampoo. Then once a week let it soak with White Vinegar/Water mix for 20min as a biocide. Even with distilled a CPAP will develop red algae film in a few days if you dont wash it daily and let it air dry. You dont flush your loop and let it air dry daily or weekly.


----------



## iSpark

My first rigid tube bend.
#2 of 4










It's not perfect, however it being my first go at bending, I think it will work. 
Rigid tube is another world from soft tube...lol

Hopefully I'll finish the tube work tomorrow.


----------



## Streetdragon

poisson21 said:


> Hello, i'm searching advice, i will soon (hopefully) redo my loop and want to add a second pump for redundancy ,because i'll add 2 sr2 560 to my mora3 420 (yeah i know overkill).
> I know that for temperature the order in the loop doesn't change anything, are they any change in water flow if you put your pump at different place in your loop ?
> Actually i have my cpu monoblock and my 2 gpu in parallel (with parallel bridge) and intent to use a waterway to distribute water same way.
> It will be res>pump1>waterway in>monoblock+gpu>waterway out>sr2>sr2>mora3>res.
> My first thought was to put the second pump between the second sr2 and the mora.
> What are your thought about it ?


should be ok, aslong the pumps get fed by a res or something like that, so they cant run dry/hold airbubbles


----------



## dwolvin

Really nice iSpark!


----------



## BradleyW

Is it possible for watercooling radiators to lose their thermal performance over time, even if they are cleaned once a year with water and vinegar?


----------



## iSpark

dwolvin said:


> Really nice iSpark!


Thanks!

I'm getting there. I should bend some more tubes to get better at it. lol
Oh, and some bending mandrels would help. :-\


----------



## iSpark

BradleyW said:


> Is it possible for watercooling radiators to lose their thermal performance over time, even if they are cleaned once a year with water and vinegar?


I would think that is possible, stuff that may build up inside the rad that vinegar cleaning solution doesn't remove.


----------



## VeritronX

I remembered at one point thinking about using something called reboot to clean out everything, so I looked it up.

It's called Primochill System Reboot, and it's designed to clean things well enough (including removing dye) that you can use any of their fancy fluids that need nothing else to be in the loop to work.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

BradleyW said:


> Is it possible for watercooling radiators to lose their thermal performance over time, even if they are cleaned once a year with water and vinegar?


The radiator itself? Highly unlikely to no. Can it be plugged with dust, have an internal obstruction due to crap fluid, plasticiser leaching or nickel plating coming off yes.

Also check to make sure your flow rate has not dropped. Could be a pump going


----------



## BradleyW

Hey all. The flow rate is great and no leaks. There is some oxidation inside the rads but no sign of anything else. There's nothing nickel coated in the loop and I don't use a dye. Just x1 clear from mayhems. The next time I clean the rads I might use something stronger. Besides the reboot stuff, what else can be used? Thank you.


----------



## DarthBaggins

BradleyW said:


> Hey all. The flow rate is great and no leaks. There is some oxidation inside the rads but no sign of anything else. There's nothing nickel coated in the loop and I don't use a dye. Just x1 clear from mayhems. The next time I clean the rads I might use something stronger. Besides the reboot stuff, what else can be used? Thank you.


Mayhems' Blitz Kit is one of the strongest kits you can get


----------



## iSpark

Dusted off my old light box and camera today and played around with some photography while the loop runs a leak test.
I need to find my black background paper I think.


----------



## brazilianloser

Wish I knew how to take such nice clean good looking shots of my build. But either way. Amazing looking build found above.


----------



## Iniura

Hey guys I got some questions, I have been running a loop for I don't even know how long maybe 5 years but at least 3 or more. I ran distilled water where I put some mayhems biocide extreme in at the beginning (couple drops) and after a year I put some more drops in it, after that I did no maintenance whatsoever for like more then 2 years, I recently broke up the loop and my Tygon R6012 Norprene tubing is absolutely fine, but some of my Bitspower fittings have like corrosion on the threads and the paint has come of on the outer area of the inside of the threads and are like blistered inside which I then removed (the blistereds) and what is left you can see it's like small corroded marks left on the inside. 
I currently put the loop back together with the fittings, my rads look decent on the inside (they are rusted on the inside but I guess that's normal?, my ram block also was a little bit rusted on the inside, during running the loop my reservoir was always clean tho no flakes in my water. 

What should I do? Do I need to buy new fittings do you think? Maybe rinse my radiators but with what I heard vinegar I don't know. I feel like I can run this loop again with the fittings the corrosion might get worse tho but the loop will still perform like it did, perhaps. I don't mind buying new waterblocks in like couple years again if these ones get destroyed by it eventually. 

I recently read the description on the Mayhems Biocide extreme and I need to put every couple months a couple drops in it OOPS. If I had done that do you guys think the fittings wouldn't be destroyed or is it just 
normal that after running a loop for that long this happens?


----------



## Zammin

Decided to try and take some photos of my system in somewhat decent lighting before tearing it apart for a rebuild with newer parts. Here are some of the snaps I took. We don't have an amazing camera but I did the best I could. Some of them were taken on my phone as well.


----------



## iSpark

Zammin said:


> Decided to try and take some photos of my system in somewhat decent lighting before tearing it apart for a rebuild with newer parts. Here are some of the snaps I took. We don't have an amazing camera but I did the best I could. Some of them were taken on my phone as well.


Those look pretty sweet for doing with what you have!
And a sweet looking rig you have too!


----------



## iSpark

For all the "doers" here. Cheers!


----------



## Zammin

iSpark said:


> Those look pretty sweet for doing with what you have!
> And a sweet looking rig you have too!


Thanks man, I like your R6 build too. I've been taking notes since I'm just starting a build in the new Define S2 haha.

The part I'm stuck on is actually the fractal vertical mount kit.. The damn thing can't take the weight of my waterblocked strix 1080ti and is sagging.


----------



## iSpark

My only complaint with the Define R6 is, I wish it was 2 to 3 inches taller.
I went from a CaseLabs TH10 to the R6, the R6 can fit inside the TH10. Talk about system shock... O.O


----------



## iSpark

Zammin said:


> The part I'm stuck on is actually the fractal vertical mount kit.. The damn thing can't take the weight of my waterblocked strix 1080ti and is sagging.



You shouldn't have that problem in the S2.
The vertical mount, mounts to the PSU shroud doesn't it?


----------



## Yukss

core p90


----------



## Zammin

iSpark said:


> You shouldn't have that problem in the S2.
> The vertical mount, mounts to the PSU shroud doesn't it?


Yeah there's two issues, the main one is because the way it works is the PCI-E connector PCB (the mount) sits on two standoffs that screw into the PSU shroud. They are quite far apart and the PCB/mount bends/bows on the right side under the weight of the GPU and block. The other issue is that the PSU shroud itself flexes downward a little bit as well, it's vented and isn't super solid. I also think the mount sits a little low as I have to really work the GPU into the slot to get it to seat properly. Ideally they should have used a steel bracket to brace the mount so it doesn't bend. The workaround for now is to wedge a piece of high density foam between the underside of the GPU block and the PSU shroud to take some of the weight.


----------



## iSpark

Zammin said:


> Yeah there's two issues, the main one is because the way it works is the PCI-E connector PCB (the mount) sits on two standoffs that screw into the PSU shroud. They are quite far apart and the PCB/mount bends/bows on the right side under the weight of the GPU and block. The other issue is that the PSU shroud itself flexes downward a little bit as well, it's vented and isn't super solid. I also think the mount sits a little low as I have to really work the GPU into the slot to get it to seat properly. Ideally they should have used a steel bracket to brace the mount so it doesn't bend. The workaround for now is to wedge a piece of high density foam between the underside of the GPU block and the PSU shroud to take some of the weight.


Ahh I see.
That must be one heavy block.


----------



## Zammin

iSpark said:


> Ahh I see.
> That must be one heavy block.


Yeah the Phanteks blocks are pretty thicc lol. It's probably not an issue for air cooled GPUs or perhaps thinner waterblocks but in this case it's not really able to take the weight without some assistance.


----------



## Gilles3000

Iniura said:


> I feel like I can run this loop again with the fittings the corrosion might get worse tho but the loop will still perform like it did, perhaps. I don't mind buying new waterblocks in like couple years again if these ones get destroyed by it eventually.
> 
> I recently read the description on the Mayhems Biocide extreme and I need to put every couple months a couple drops in it OOPS. If I had done that do you guys think the fittings wouldn't be destroyed or is it just
> normal that after running a loop for that long this happens?


The fittings are fine, just looks like some mild tarnish. Give the threads a good clean, maybe replace the o-rings, and they're good to use again.

Very much doubt adding more biocide would've made a difference corrosion wise, I'd say the most likely cause is that your liquid turned too acidic, might not be a terrible idea to check the pH of your coolant next time.


----------



## skupples

6 year old EK coolstream seems to have a hole in one of the channels - it’s leaking rusty water from deep inside the fins. 

I love how this didn’t happen during the 2 days of table testing, even though I was suspicious of something all along. I’m guessing this is the radiator that caused the weird 300mm water gulp. 

Luckily - the radiator was on the bottom of the system so the only loss is 4 bottles of X1. It’s time for the biocide / inhibitor drops me thinks.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So I just had another D5 pump die on me. This makes number 3 or 4 and they seem to be meeting the same fate where the impeller sits on the bearing seems to be grinding out. I plan on reworking the loop now because its just getting ridiculous and I also plan on doing another system clean to check pH etc etc and the rig has only ever used distilled water. I currently have an older bitspower 200 or 250mm res and was just running a d5 with an older bitspower pom top. I'm really beginning to wonder if the way my loop was setup if that pump top was starving it of water and causing it to lose lubrication resulting in it grinding itself to death. So if you all had to pick a new res and pump what would you all go with?

*edit*
I'm thinking about going with the EKWB EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM (incl. sl. Pump) with the 250mm tank. Few questions to anyone with this res though. Do i need the multiport top if I want to use the top as an inlet and would the acrylic inner tube be necessary or recommended for an inlet only? Further will any g1/4 plug work for them or do you need something special with EK being so weird with their stuff now?


----------



## skupples

I've been using the same 3 pumps for over 6 years. Swiftech's PWM DDCs. 

The $200 pump & top combo has ended up being a killer deal. I just inspected them over the weekend, and the impellers still look brand new.

idk why they get such a bad rap.

i get 170+ lph in my completely stuffed full of stuff sth10. (had to check again now that all the air is out) of course that's completely unneccessary for cooling efficiency, see pic.

cycles - max (70%) 50% n 40%


----------



## sdmf74

Hey guys your help would be appreciated! If anyone knows what this product might be called please let me know? Its the green stuff used to reinforce the soldered LED connections to the pcb.
Im guessing it went on as some sort of grease / silicone and hardened (but would be removable for repairs)

I was taking some pics of my Bitspower summit ef~x rgb cpu waterblock to list on ebay and I noticed that the product I have been searching everywhere for (unsuccessfully) to use to repair the led's on my velocity waterblock
was actually used by bitspower in production for the exact same reason on their rgb waterblock!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Plastic dip and or liquid electrical tape either would do the job.


----------



## skupples

hot glue.


----------



## iamjanco

Looks like some sort of RTV silicon to me, maybe hi-temp.


----------



## Abaidor

Liquid tape would be my choice as well...


----------



## skupples

what i meant to say was - I've used hot glue in place of solder & that other "stuff" many times with no issue.

also - as to the flow discussion the other day.

now that the air is 100% out of my loop.

full duty cycle i'm pushing neer 200 Lph. at 30% pushing 100, so still curious why swiftech's dual DDC gets a bad rap, n that's from a pump that's had easily 30k running hours on it.


----------



## MURDoctrine

skupples said:


> what i meant to say was - I've used hot glue in place of solder & that other "stuff" many times with no issue.
> 
> also - as to the flow discussion the other day.
> 
> now that the air is 100% out of my loop.
> 
> full duty cycle i'm pushing neer 200 Lph. at 30% pushing 100, so still curious why swiftech's dual DDC gets a bad rap, n that's from a pump that's had easily 30k running hours on it.


That is because they normally require an additional heatsink and tend to be a lot louder at higher RPM compared to a D5.


----------



## skupples

MURDoctrine said:


> That is because they normally require an additional heatsink and tend to be a lot louder at higher RPM compared to a D5.


true, they're a bit noisy @ 100% duty cycle, which i ran mine at for the first few years before realizing that 200 L/ph didn't do diddly squat for temps compared to 100 L/ph. so now I run them around 35%, n they're near silent.

also - i've only ever used the metal housings with fins on the bottom, due to how ugly the double wide one is. 

yes, i've definitely seen pics of cheap ebay DDC's melting. (the ones with a pink impeller? i'm colorblind)


----------



## anticommon

https://i.imgur.com/K3rrO2N.jpg

Hi guys, any thoughts on what I should do with my build?

I am contemplating getting all 16mm OD tubing (same color chrome fittings from EK? Maybe go all black?) along with replacing all my deepcool fans on the inside with LL120's and putting ML140's in the front for intake (all fans on 'outside' of case are currently LL120's) and getting a Der8aur OC Mate for the 9900k and gaskets for all the fans. 

My biggest thought is that I may want to change up the loop order because of the sheer number of ridiculous bends I needed to do for the order I have now (first ever hard tube build) that I don't even think will be entirely possible with larger tubing. Unfortunately without moving the GPU to a vertical position (which I don't really want to do anyways) I am really limited to the current orientation of the parts given how tight everything is. I also want to add a dedicated fill/drain port but I doubt if there is a good spot to slap one in place in the Thermaltake A500. What would you guys recommend I do? I am likely to place a PPCS order this evening and would like to encapsulate all the necessary parts into one order since I have that 25% off code from them. 

currently I have:

2x T fittings
2x Valves
4x M/M couplings
8x 90* swivel fittings
2x 45/45 swivel fittings
10x 12mm HDC (changing to 16mm HDC, same # unless more are needed)
?x Plugs

I am wondering if I should get some spacers or other fittings to make my life easier. I put my drain in such a bad spot I need to rethink where it will go ultimately. A cleaner look with fewer required bends would be nice too but I am so bad at planning things that aren't overly complex and annoying to look at. I have also been fairly anal about making sure there is a radiator before both CPU and GPU but maybe I can let that part slide this time.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> *what i meant to say was - I've used hot glue in place of solder & that other "stuff" many times with no issue.
> *
> also - as to the flow discussion the other day.
> 
> now that the air is 100% out of my loop.
> 
> full duty cycle i'm pushing neer 200 Lph. at 30% pushing 100, so still curious why swiftech's dual DDC gets a bad rap, n that's from a pump that's had easily 30k running hours on it.


Hi,
Yep that's how I took it since liquid electrical tape probably comes in a few colors and hot glue that I've seen it only one 

As far as pumps are concerned I've gotten a bunk d5 watercool vario where as others may swear by them so it's all hit and miss unfortunately


----------



## skupples

shady brands are shady brands


----------



## ORL

MURDoctrine said:


> That is because they normally require an additional heatsink and tend to be a lot louder at higher RPM compared to a D5.


Here we go again /facepalm.

No Liang DDC pump has ever REQUIRED a heat sink since its inception. The heatsinks for the Liang Pumps is a far newer concept for the pump than the pump itself. It is about customization cosmetics more than functionality. Those people who have in fact destroyed a Liang pump due to heat in the past, was due to them burying the pump in a non conductive medium. This is user error and destruction of the pump, it has nothing to do with requiring one. You wouldn't attach a fan to your case, then block all airflow to it with foam because the fan annoys you thus causing ELF would you?

I have first edition Liang pumps which have never once in their MANY years of full time service ever overheated, only one of the original 3 I have bought has failed and I personally physically destroyed it.

There is only one legitimate concern people have with this pumps operation, and that's what some call its signature drone noise that it creates when not decoupled from flat metal panels.

Rant Over.


----------



## skupples

Yay! compatriot! 

that additional screw on sync is a space hogging gimmick. Better off just using the quality metal housing with a home made shoggy sammich.

Either way - I'm gonna always use dual pumps, & Swiftech just happened to have their little 2 in 1 back in the day when I got started, Back when dual pump was still highly ridiculed by the leetists (who now all use it)

i can say this though, that XSPC tri-top is garbage. I went thru three of them before I decided its just a flawed product. The little flow channel that's poorly sealed with a piece of plastic always pops.


----------



## nycgtr

iSpark said:


> Dusted off my old light box and camera today and played around with some photography while the loop runs a leak test.
> I need to find my black background paper I think.


I got a 40 dollar light box recently. Darn thing is amazing.


----------



## iSpark

nycgtr said:


> I got a 40 dollar light box recently. Darn thing is amazing.


They are indeed! Any time you can get the light off camera it makes a world of difference!

I used my 22" beauty dish with AlienBees B800 studio flash unit on those pics.
I need to get out my 24x36 softbox for a larger softer light source.

I'm still kicking myself, I threw away all my 12' wide studio background paper this past June, because I was tired of it being in my way. 

Now I have to find or make a large black background for taking box computer pics


----------



## DarthBaggins

^That's why I have a large black sheet I snagged from GoodWill, and I have a white sheet for when I need it. Also for my lights I ended up snagging a few clamp lights from HomeDepot and a cheap plastic shower curtain I could cut up to soften the lights. So far works really well for when I stream and need to shoot photos.


----------



## iSpark

DarthBaggins said:


> ^That's why I have a large black sheet I snagged from GoodWill, and I have a white sheet for when I need it. Also for my lights I ended up snagging a few clamp lights from HomeDepot and a cheap plastic shower curtain I could cut up to soften the lights. So far works really well for when I stream and need to shoot photos.


Yep, I have the black and white sheets, it's what I used before getting studio grade background paper.
Might not seem there would be a difference, but there is.

I also have the white shiny hardboard panels that comes in 4x8 sheets, that stuff looks awesome in photos!

Not my pic, but looks like this.










I may try a few shots and see what a black PC looks like on it.


----------



## Ceadderman

ORL said:


> Here we go again /facepalm.
> 
> No Liang DDC pump has ever REQUIRED a heat sink since its inception. The heatsinks for the Liang Pumps is a far newer concept for the pump than the pump itself. It is about customization cosmetics more than functionality. Those people who have in fact destroyed a Liang pump due to heat in the past, was due to them burying the pump in a non conductive medium. This is user error and destruction of the pump, it has nothing to do with requiring one. You wouldn't attach a fan to your case, then block all airflow to it with foam because the fan annoys you thus causing ELF would you?
> 
> I have first edition Liang pumps which have never once in their MANY years of full time service ever overheated, only one of the original 3 I have bought has failed and I personally physically destroyed it.
> 
> There is only one legitimate concern people have with this pumps operation, and that's what some call its signature drone noise that it creates when not decoupled from flat metal panels.
> 
> Rant Over.


*Ahem*

You sir are correct, to a point.

Unmodded DDC do not require heatsink.

HOWEVER.

35x modded DDC design. The board in those are modded to allow for more power and more power creates more heat. So if you cannot mount dual 3.5x pumps in a optimal environment, you WILL need heatsinks to keep them cool as the water in the loop simply will not keep up with the heat output of those pumps.

Plenty of Swiftec pumps require heatsinks when they are used. All things being equal, not every use case scenario is the same.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

i guess my MCP35x2's doesn't fall into that category.


----------



## ORL

Ceadderman said:


> *Ahem*
> 
> You sir are correct, to a point.
> 
> Unmodded DDC do not require heatsink.
> 
> HOWEVER.
> 
> 35x modded DDC design. The board in those are modded to allow for more power and more power creates more heat. So if you cannot mount dual 3.5x pumps in a optimal environment, you WILL need heatsinks to keep them cool as the water in the loop simply will not keep up with the heat output of those pumps.
> 
> Plenty of Swiftec pumps require heatsinks when they are used. All things being equal, not every use case scenario is the same.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I apologize but this is incorrect. The power consumption and board designs are the same across the manufacturer base as a quality control feature of Liangs original design. The difference between boards is the sensors that dictate the RPM curve to resistance in the motor. Only one model is capable of drawing additional power outside of margin of error on the whole that I know of, and this is the MCP50X which has abandoned the original circuit board as well as the rotor and replaced it all. Effectively making a entirely new pump, but based on the original theories and design. 

I believe I am correct in saying, that the MCP35X model is in fact nothing other than a Liang DDC3.25 with a specialized PWM chip. It still like the other models, draws only 18 watts. Go look the statistics up if you doubt me on this. There may be micro changes between generations of the Liang CORE unit, but not to the degree of unmanageable in its stock design in thermal mitigation.

I am only just familiar with the MCP50X and have never used one, maybe someone here can testify to the units power draw but I think it was 25 watts.


----------



## skupples

he's talking about people that buy the el-cheepo pumps off of ebay, then solder in new stuff on their own, I think.

& if memory serves, yes you are correct. The only thing "special" about the 35x2 is swiftech's top (it used to be the best, not sure if it still is) & the PWM control.

yes, it definitely get's toasty on full cycle - which was unnecessary even in my last build which must have had 20 90 degree fittings & 4x 480x60mm radiators, with everything possible under water & 3 gpus.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

skupples said:


> Something weird just happened while draining my test loop.
> 
> I unhooked the radiator at the end, tipped it up, & all the water in the reservoir vanished without any exiting the loop.
> 
> It’s been running for 12 hours & I coulda sworn all the water was out, but I guess I’m wrong. Where else would a 300mm tube worth of water go...


Normally into the PSU....



Ceadderman said:


> *Ahem*
> 
> You sir are correct, to a point.
> 
> Unmodded DDC do not require heatsink.
> 
> HOWEVER.
> 
> 35x modded DDC design. The board in those are modded to allow for more power and more power creates more heat. So if you cannot mount dual 3.5x pumps in a optimal environment, you WILL need heatsinks to keep them cool as the water in the loop simply will not keep up with the heat output of those pumps.
> 
> Plenty of Swiftec pumps require heatsinks when they are used. All things being equal, not every use case scenario is the same.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Actually...both of you are wrong.

The 18w DDC requires a heatsink for low restriction, high flowrate loops otherwise the motor will melt thru the backside of the motor housing. This is not conjecture, it has been seen many times. The enduse that this pump was designed for originally has significantly more restriction than our small loops. The DDC is is not watercooled like the D5 so water has little impact overall.

The best solution is run the pumps at less than 80% speed or use 10w's instead, these are much more reliable and can be run at speed for extended periods.


----------



## DarthBaggins

iSpark said:


> Yep, I have the black and white sheets, it's what I used before getting studio grade background paper.
> Might not seem there would be a difference, but there is.
> 
> I also have the white shiny hardboard panels that comes in 4x8 sheets, that stuff looks awesome in photos!
> 
> Not my pic, but looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may try a few shots and see what a black PC looks like on it.


ok, no I do agree that paper works alot better than just cloth sheets (had something else in my head when I heard paper lol)


----------



## skupples

B NEGATIVE said:


> Normally into the PSU....
> 
> 
> 
> Actually...both of you are wrong.
> 
> The 18w DDC requires a heatsink for low restriction, high flowrate loops otherwise the motor will melt thru the backside of the motor housing. This is not conjecture, it has been seen many times. The enduse that this pump was designed for originally has significantly more restriction than our small loops. The DDC is is not watercooled like the D5 so water has little impact overall.
> 
> The best solution is run the pumps at less than 80% speed or use 10w's instead, these are much more reliable and can be run at speed for extended periods.


lol, hey B! 

luckily this was while everything was sitting on a table, with the PSU far far away, n i never did find any water. It had to be a giant air bubble is all.


----------



## sdmf74

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Plastic dip and or liquid electrical tape either would do the job.


The green stuff is definately not liquid electrical tape & I assume plastic dip dries somewhat soft as well?
The green stuff bitspower used dries to a hard candy like substance meaning you couldn't use your fingernail to make an indentation like the rubber stuff and hot glue. Rtv silicone maybe but I've never used it so I dont know what it dries like.
I was wondering if it could be some sort of Electrolube (which seems to be hard to find in the U.S.

As far as pumps go I will own nothing but a D5 after having a swiftech MCP50X go dead after 6 months or so. No heatsink on it but I had 4 gentle typhoon 3000rpm fans blowing directly on it! & never ran the pump at high rpms. It was one single experience but enough of a hassle to not take the chance on another DDC.


----------



## Ceadderman

B NEGATIVE said:


> Normally into the PSU....
> 
> 
> 
> Actually...both of you are wrong.
> 
> The 18w DDC requires a heatsink for low restriction, high flowrate loops otherwise the motor will melt thru the backside of the motor housing. This is not conjecture, it has been seen many times. The enduse that this pump was designed for originally has significantly more restriction than our small loops. The DDC is is not watercooled like the D5 so water has little impact overall.
> 
> The best solution is run the pumps at less than 80% speed or use 10w's instead, these are much more reliable and can be run at speed for extended periods.


 Hey Bro long time no see. I dunno IYR... My first loop had a single DDC-1 pump in a dual pump top with a block off plate until I got a 2nd unit to mate up with it. I never needed to cool it because both of them were in the direct path of a 200mm fan and held up off the floor of the case. I kind of had an idea that I was incorrect on the unit that really needs a heatsink(3.5x) but I think I was pretty even handed by pointing out YEMV since location of the pump plays a part in whether it's a necessary item.

Please forgive my lack of experience with the more powerful DDC models. I went straight to D5 with an EK Vario pump for my soon to be completed Ryzen loop... well I can't say this for another month since I will have to allow for shipping of my ATX OB1 bench coming from China. Missed out when Newegg had it in stock. Otherwise I would have my parallel run already bent...


RAM, CPU, GPU and back exiting from RAM sound right or should I run it by way of the GPU end of that run? Going to run three 360s one in the top and two vertically parallel in the front of my 932. 

CHVII
Ryzen 7 1800x(awaiting Zen 2)
EK Acetyl Mono Block
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 3600s 
EK Monarch HS swap
EK Copper Acetyl RAM block (which is sitting atop my CIVFormula build) 

2TB WD Black drive(backup/storage)
1TB Samsung 860 EVO main/Steam drive
500GB Samsung 860 EVO Windows drive
120GB Samsung 760 chipset and driver drive.

Not 100% set on the drive contents on the 500 and 120 drives but I will figure those out once I get my testing/testing finished. Got 24 EV2 fittings and white acrylic tubes(x6) to connect everything together using EK and BP connector fittings and bending from point A to point B legs between each block. 

Whole setup should be completed by the end of February. :wheee:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

skupples said:


> lol, hey B!
> 
> luckily this was while everything was sitting on a table, with the PSU far far away, n i never did find any water. It had to be a giant air bubble is all.


You could have the PSU in another room...water will find a way....


Ceadderman said:


> Hey Bro long time no see. I dunno IYR... My first loop had a single DDC-1 pump in a dual pump top with a block off plate until I got a 2nd unit to mate up with it. I never needed to cool it because both of them were in the direct path of a 200mm fan and held up off the floor of the case. I kind of had an idea that I was incorrect on the unit that really needs a heatsink(3.5x) but I think I was pretty even handed by pointing out YEMV since location of the pump plays a part in whether it's a necessary item.
> 
> Please forgive my lack of experience with the more powerful DDC models. I went straight to D5 with an EK Vario pump for my soon to be completed Ryzen loop... well I can't say this for another month since I will have to allow for shipping of my ATX OB1 bench coming from China. Missed out when Newegg had it in stock. Otherwise I would have my parallel run already bent...
> 
> 
> RAM, CPU, GPU and back exiting from RAM sound right or should I run it by way of the GPU end of that run? Going to run three 360s one in the top and two vertically parallel in the front of my 932.
> 
> CHVII
> Ryzen 7 1800x(awaiting Zen 2)
> EK Acetyl Mono Block
> G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 3600s
> EK Monarch HS swap
> EK Copper Acetyl RAM block (which is sitting atop my CIVFormula build)
> 
> 2TB WD Black drive(backup/storage)
> 1TB Samsung 860 EVO main/Steam drive
> 500GB Samsung 860 EVO Windows drive
> 120GB Samsung 760 chipset and driver drive.
> 
> Not 100% set on the drive contents on the 500 and 120 drives but I will figure those out once I get my testing/testing finished. Got 24 EV2 fittings and white acrylic tubes(x6) to connect everything together using EK and BP connector fittings and bending from point A to point B legs between each block.
> 
> Whole setup should be completed by the end of February. :wheee:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


You can run 18w's at full speed in a high restriction loop, just not a in a low restriction setup.

I has been busy designing the next gen EK stuff so I have not been here too often tbf. 
I also dont like the OCN layout now...


----------



## skupples

B NEGATIVE said:


> You could have the PSU in another room...water will find a way....
> 
> 
> You can run 18w's at full speed in a high restriction loop, just not a in a low restriction setup.
> 
> I has been busy designing the next gen EK stuff so I have not been here too often tbf.
> I also dont like the OCN layout now...


lololol. I've been lucky through most of my adventures. I've yet to have a leak affect a major component. I've lost some fans & sensors to leaks though.


----------



## Ceadderman

B NEGATIVE said:


> You could have the PSU in another room...water will find a way....
> 
> 
> You can run 18w's at full speed in a high restriction loop, just not a in a low restriction setup.
> 
> I has been busy designing the next gen EK stuff so I have not been here too often tbf.
> I also dont like the OCN layout now...


Agreed. I am certainly no fan of the new layout. The lack of rating system is allowing everyone to post sale listings. I have to break my brain to remember everyone who was a member here prior to the change just to make offers. Hope OCN can get corrected and somewhat soon.

I name dropped on one of Tech Jesus's vids. He was commenting on drop in case panel reservoirs... I let him know you were doing it before it's become a thing.  lol

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Zammin

Just recently finished the watercooling loop for my secondary system in the new Define S2. The lighting's not great and they are just phone pics, but in terms of the build I'm fairly pleased with the way it came out, just having trouble figuring out where to put UV strips to make the coolant glow. I've put one in the front and one sort of behind the reservoir, but I really need to get some light on the front or top of the tubes to get them to light up nicely. I just can't find anywhere that won't look awful (e.g. sticking it to the fan shrouds or something tacky like that). If anyone has any ideas on where to position some more UV strips where they won't be in line of sight with the PC on my desk (which rules out the rear panel of the case) please let me know. Also the desk in the pics is not my computer desk it's a work bench haha.


----------



## kroaton

Just mounted the new RGB addressable lighting, very satisfied now !


----------



## Ceadderman

kroaton said:


> Just mounted the new RGB addressable lighting, very satisfied now !
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/hwcUV6og5dY


Very nice. 

But that's just way too much RGB for my tastes. I halfway expected a mirror ball to drop out of an automated compartment in the center of your Radiator. :lachen:

Don't get me wrong I like lighting but am more of a fan of understated than *ibang!* punch you in the face with a billion rays of RGB. Fans aren't one of those things I have a need to stand out in my system unless I paint them.  



Zammin said:


> Just recently finished the watercooling loop for my secondary system in the new Define S2. The lighting's not great and they are just phone pics, but in terms of the build I'm fairly pleased with the way it came out, just having trouble figuring out where to put UV strips to make the coolant glow. I've put one in the front and one sort of behind the reservoir, but I really need to get some light on the front or top of the tubes to get them to light up nicely. I just can't find anywhere that won't look awful (e.g. sticking it to the fan shrouds or something tacky like that). If anyone has any ideas on where to position some more UV strips where they won't be in line of sight with the PC on my desk (which rules out the rear panel of the case) please let me know. Also the desk in the pics is not my computer desk it's a work bench haha.


I really like this build. You could put RGB in the front but with the PSU cover in the bottom you're sort of limited as to where. I see only 3 options. 

1st is a strip of LEDs right in front of the Radiator in the top. That would give some clarity. But may reflect off the Radiator. Same as...

2nd to the front panel 

Or thirdly both. But again may reflect off the radiators. 

You may think about grabbing up some RGB blocks or Reservoir. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Zammin

Ceadderman said:


> I really like this build. You could put RGB in the front but with the PSU cover in the bottom you're sort of limited as to where. I see only 3 options.
> 
> 1st is a strip of LEDs right in front of the Radiator in the top. That would give some clarity. But may reflect off the Radiator. Same as...
> 
> 2nd to the front panel
> 
> Or thirdly both. But again may reflect off the radiators.
> 
> You may think about grabbing up some RGB blocks or Reservoir. :thinking:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Thanks man!

They are UV strips though, not RGB. For this build I was trying not to add too much RGB 

It's all good, I ended up figuring it out. I kept that strip in the front, removed the one behind the reservoir because it kept falling off anyway and I trimmed three pieces of UV strip with 3x LEDs on each and fitted them to center of each fan in the top. That was the best spot I could find where the UV light hits all the tubes and you can't really see them unless you stick your head underneath, and the wires I used are really slim and tied to the fan wires so you don't really notice them unless you look closely. I might take another photo tonight with the other lighting in the case turned off so you can just see the tubes glow.


----------



## kroaton

Ceadderman said:


> Very nice.
> 
> But that's just way too much RGB for my tastes. I halfway expected a mirror ball to drop out of an automated compartment in the center of your Radiator. :lachen:
> 
> Don't get me wrong I like lighting but am more of a fan of understated than *ibang!* punch you in the face with a billion rays of RGB. Fans aren't one of those things I have a need to stand out in my system unless I paint them.



Thank you, maybe it's not totally appreciate in video but in real life the effect is really good. It's not too much in my opinion anyway the good thing about RGB is that you can disable the ones you don't want or customize at a maniacal level of detail!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nothing fancy but done 
x299 and x99 pretty much the same


----------



## CptSpig

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nothing fancy but done
> x299 and x99 pretty much the same


Looks Great Bro! :thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

CptSpig said:


> Looks Great Bro! :thumb:


Hi,
Thanks Cpt you're too kind


----------



## SoMBrA

Hello everyone!
My build is finished!


----------



## CptAsian

SoMBrA said:


> Hello everyone!
> My build is finished!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler



I love the color scheme. That's honestly one of the best looking builds I've seen in a little while.


----------



## Zammin

Zammin said:


> Thanks man!
> 
> They are UV strips though, not RGB. For this build I was trying not to add too much RGB
> 
> It's all good, I ended up figuring it out. I kept that strip in the front, removed the one behind the reservoir because it kept falling off anyway and I trimmed three pieces of UV strip with 3x LEDs on each and fitted them to center of each fan in the top. That was the best spot I could find where the UV light hits all the tubes and you can't really see them unless you stick your head underneath, and the wires I used are really slim and tied to the fan wires so you don't really notice them unless you look closely. I might take another photo tonight with the other lighting in the case turned off so you can just see the tubes glow.


A little late but here are the images with the additional UV lights in place. Don't mind the weird dots in the second image, the camera was picking up the UV reflections a bit funny.


----------



## Turfboy

I decided not to use the lights until the software is a little more secure. 
The card is a MSI GTX SeaHawk EK X :thumb:


----------



## Ceadderman

Turfboy said:


> I decided not to use the lights until the software is a little more secure.
> The card is a MSI GTX SeaHawk EK X :thumb:


Ooooooh that copper. :stun:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## davidm71

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nothing fancy but done
> x299 and x99 pretty much the same



You really need two pumps for that?


----------



## Thingamajig

Not the most flattering pictures, but, it is what it is.

Recently got temps under control under heavy overclocks (Both gpu + 7700K CPU) still not very efficient but, at least looks cool.


----------



## CptSpig

davidm71 said:


> You really need two pumps for that?


There are two pumps? One on the res and one upper left of the board.

Edit: opps guess I was wrong I don't use d5 pumps oh well you need two pumps Thrash!


----------



## ThrashZone

davidm71 said:


> You really need two pumps for that?


Hi,
No 
I was and still might add a chiller though and it would need two pumps so it's preparation really.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So is mayhems the best go to fluid out there still or are there other good alternatives? I'm finally ditching pure distilled water after some bad corrosion(around O-ring) on my EK GPU block.


----------



## skupples

MURDoctrine said:


> So is mayhems the best go to fluid out there still or are there other good alternatives? I'm finally ditching pure distilled water after some bad corrosion(around O-ring) on my EK GPU block.


pretty much, & his "best" protection based solution now adays is the biocide+corrosion+ kit.


CptSpig said:


> There are two pumps? One on the res and one upper left of the board.
> 
> Edit: opps guess I was wrong I don't use d5 pumps oh well you need two pumps Thrash!


that's a DDC with EK top.


----------



## CptSpig

skupples said:


> pretty much, & his "best" protection based solution now adays is the biocide+corrosion+ kit.
> 
> 
> that's a DDC with EK top.


I think it's a D5 look at his build list.


----------



## Ceadderman

CptSpig said:


> I think it's a D5 look at his build list.


Anyone know which bracket that is on the left?

I have an X3Top mounted to my pump and the same pump mount holding it. But my current case doesn't have the space on the lower MB tray to mount it at the lowest point. Big cable gap there unless I mount the pump with the back of the pump being blocked by the bottom of the case. Not that concerning when you don't own a PWM controlled Vario. I guess I could drill an access hole for the control, but putting it on a 120 bracket and mounting it to a fan mount on the bottom makes it better and easier to access. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## iSpark

Ceadderman said:


> Anyone know which bracket that is on the left?


See post below

I posted wrong side...lol


----------



## iSpark

Ceadderman said:


> Anyone know which bracket that is on the left?



https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-140mm-fan
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> that's a DDC with EK top.


Hi,
Both are ek pwm d5's 
Pump res combo and one top.
Not sure which pump res combo came with the 280p kits though
https://www.microcenter.com/product/486782/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-including-pump

Bought the pwm top's separately 
https://www.microcenter.com/product/486780/ek-xtop-revo-d5-water-pump


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Both are ek pwm d5's
> Pump res combo and one top.
> Not sure which pump res combo came with the 280p kits though
> https://www.microcenter.com/product/486782/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-including-pump
> 
> Bought the pwm top's separately
> https://www.microcenter.com/product/486780/ek-xtop-revo-d5-water-pump



looks like i miss quoted, and was out of sync with the convo  

I was referring to Thingamajig's build.

also - PWM top? never heard of a specific PWM top... they must be machined with even higher precision so that the pump stays quiet at all speeds?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

MURDoctrine said:


> So is mayhems the best go to fluid out there still or are there other good alternatives? I'm finally ditching pure distilled water after some bad corrosion(around O-ring) on my EK GPU block.


Pure distilled is very bad for your loop, you need a basic anti corrosive and biocide to be mixed in.


----------



## FedeX299I57640X

This is my build i make two modify at the tube in the rad and my build will be completed what do you think?
Today i make the test loop/leak! 
Before 








After


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> looks like i miss quoted, and was out of sync with the convo
> 
> I was referring to Thingamajig's build.
> 
> also - PWM top? never heard of a specific PWM top... they must be machined with even higher precision so that the pump stays quiet at all speeds?


Hi,
Yeah I don't believe you quoted anyone on the inquiry 
But yeah that's a weird one


----------



## MURDoctrine

B NEGATIVE said:


> Pure distilled is very bad for your loop, you need a basic anti corrosive and biocide to be mixed in.


Haha I knew it wasn't great but I payed the price being lazy this time around. Just put my Heatkiller GPU block in and have my mayhems pastel arriving tomorrow.


----------



## iSpark

B NEGATIVE said:


> Pure distilled is very bad for your loop, you need a basic anti corrosive and biocide to be mixed in.


Which do you recommend?
I think I'm finally ready to fill.


----------



## MURDoctrine

iSpark said:


> Which do you recommend?
> I think I'm finally ready to fill.


Well you can run distilled you just need a biocide and anti-corrosive. I would check with your part manufacturers to see which is safe to use with their plating/materials. Mayhems has some that are probably very good and I'm sure they are the ones they use in their fluid premixes.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
X1 clear it has everything needed concentrate or premix.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

My latest build. 900D, the ginormous behemoth. Does it need 2 pumps? Maybe not, but I can turn these down pretty low and still get good flow. 420, 480, 2x 240 rads. Primochill PETG and Revolvers, HWL GTX rads, EK blocks & res. Has enough rads that the fans are not turning too fast and still keep temps in check, really quiet for how large it is.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Data base error 

Nicely put together Charlie :thumb:


----------



## skupples

I went dual when I jumped up to that size case as well.


----------



## Questors

iSpark said:


> Which do you recommend?
> I think I'm finally ready to fill.



Mayhems X1 Clear. 

4 years running, two block tear downs for inspections, perfect shiny blocks and zero corrosion or other issue.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Questors said:


> Mayhems X1 Clear.
> 
> 4 years running, two block tear downs for inspections, perfect shiny blocks and zero corrosion or other issue.



Same fluid, less time running (~2.5 years for me)... but exactly same results. Same suggestion as well obviously. 


For the record, I also had zero issues with their pastel white I ran in 3 systems for about 3 years prior to "going clear" (had to get rid of those thetans or whatever). No block fouling or corrosion with it, and it's great... provided you don't mind the cleaning hell required to not have cloudy water/fluid later on.


----------



## Ceadderman

GnarlyCharlie said:


> My latest build. 900D, the ginormous behemoth. Does it need 2 pumps? Maybe not, but I can turn these down pretty low and still get good flow. 420, 480, 2x 240 rads. Primochill PETG and Revolvers, HWL GTX rads, EK blocks & res. Has enough rads that the fans are not turning too fast and still keep temps in check, really quiet for how large it is.


Looks good. 

But are you needing 5.25 bay anymore? Show off that front mounted Radiator. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

Ceadderman said:


> Looks good.
> 
> But are you needing 5.25 bay anymore? Show off that front mounted Radiator.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


The structural integrity of the case is heavily tied to that bay. He'd need to fab something, or order order the kit to fully remove it. 

I ended up cutting out all but .5 inches of it, then reinforcing that half inch with a bent metal U.


----------



## Ceadderman

skupples said:


> The structural integrity of the case is heavily tied to that bay. He'd need to fab something, or order order the kit to fully remove it.
> 
> I ended up cutting out all but .5 inches of it, then reinforcing that half inch with a bent metal U.


Ahhhh, it's been so long since I have seen anything on the 900D that I simply forgot about that. I removed the 5.25 from my HAF932 and indeed FT cases get a tad flimsy when you pick them up with no doors on them. 

Thanks for the reminder skups. :thumb:

And the seriously fast response. I only just responded to that.  lol 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I can't figure out how to rip Blu Rays without a drive. But I did pull out all the other drive bays and put radiators everywhere they were.


----------



## Ceadderman

GnarlyCharlie said:


> I can't figure out how to rip Blu Rays without a drive. But I did pull out all the other drive bays and put radiators everywhere they were.


Pretty certain there are external enclosures you could source and pick up to turn your drive into an external device. :thinking: 

But skupples is correct, you would have to brace the corners on the inside lip with a couple of steel "L" brackets riveted in place to firm up the structural integrity of the 900D. I may do that with my 932, as it is a little shaky when I pick it up while the loop is empty. I haven't added the external Radiator mounts to the inside front or the flat panels to the top front and rear portions either. 

I don't even wish to dwell on how heavy the whole system will be completed and filled. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Different strokes, for sure. The space for the drive I wanted was already there - although I did move it forward so it's flush with the bay covers and modify that bay cover so there's not a cover missing like there would be if mounted as intended - so it seemed a logical place to put it. I did cut off a couple of the bays in my 550D to get a 240 in the front of it, but a 240 just about fit in the front of the 900D - had to take some fan mounts out to get P/P fans under the front dust screen. Anyway, I'm fairly pleased with how it turned out and encourage those who don't like my approach to do it however suits them.


----------



## jelome1989

https://i.imgur.com/Hkj80M1.jpg
System has been running for 2 days+ now with several power cycles and varying pump speeds. There are also still small air bubbles in my CPU and GPU blocks. I tried tilting the system, shaking but to no avail. Is this normal? How do I bleed/remove the air pockets?


----------



## skupples

jelome1989 said:


> System has been running for 2 days+ now with several power cycles and varying pump speeds. There are also still small air bubbles in my CPU and GPU blocks. I tried tilting the system, shaking but to no avail. Is this normal? How do I bleed/remove the air pockets?


Quite normal, it takes a good while to really get em all out. Just give it a good shake once a day, going forward.


----------



## jelome1989

skupples said:


> Quite normal, it takes a good while to really get em all out. Just give it a good shake once a day, going forward.


I see thanks, radiator also still produces a 'leaking' noise. How does this affect performance? 1-2c drop in temps maybe? I hope this bleeds out soon. Will report back in a week


----------



## skupples

jelome1989 said:


> I see thanks, radiator also still produces a 'leaking' noise. How does this affect performance? 1-2c drop in temps maybe? I hope this bleeds out soon. Will report back in a week


a leaking noise? 

that's likely the stuck air. 

not my much.

make sure you're damn near flipping it upside down to get those last pesky bubbles out. Please note, sometimes its better to let it sit for a day or two before shaking. It seems to allow the air to congregate


----------



## jelome1989

skupples said:


> a leaking noise?
> 
> that's likely the stuck air.
> 
> not my much.
> 
> make sure you're damn near flipping it upside down to get those last pesky bubbles out. Please note, sometimes its better to let it sit for a day or two before shaking. It seems to allow the air to congregate


Yeah, leaking noise





Only happens when pump is at 80%+. At 80% it's weak but at 100% it's definitely loud.

I've checked all the ports no leaks.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Probably just a loose part causing that
EK the outer rad case is not welded... to the inner core 
The inlet and outlet port has a collar or extension that holds the outer and inter core connected 
Here's a thread where the part was leaking leaked and finally broke from tightening 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1719390-broken-ek-rad-barb.html


----------



## broodro0ster

Tilt your case 80-85° left and right 5 times to each side and hold it for 30 seconds. This bleeds your loop in less than 10 minutes.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Little update : made a dust filter for the intake radiator fans ,easy to pull out> clean> than push back on rails . Now i need to figure out some filter for the external rad ,atm its just a junk filter with magnetic strips.


----------



## toooooot

Howdy people. I am stuck with my upgrade. Can someone with more experience than me look at the picture below and tell me if this will work.
I want water from radiator to go into the pump first, then reservoir, and only then to my gpu and cpu blocks.
I am looking at this idea and I am concerned that the pump pushing water inside reservoir would somehow stay there, in the reservoir and wont efficiently go next to my waterblocks.
Has anyone done it this way before? 
Anything else you can recommend if you have years of custom looping?
Again, I want water after the radiator to go into the pump because it seems this way it will be easier to make it look symmetrical with the fittings I got (all bykski). And only after the pump to the reservoir and from there into my cpu/gpu waterblocks.


----------



## toooooot

Ok I found words that describe the most of my concern. In my old config, pump was pushing water under pressure right into waterblocks. But if I set it how I described it on the picture, pump will be pushing into the reservoir and I will have to rely on pump sucking water from the other side for the most part. I cant say it would be liek this because I simply dont know. But when I try to visualize it, it seems that the water will lose speed when it leaves the pump and goes into the reservoir. I only wish there was a way to test it without actually cutting copper pipes and assembling it together...


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

toooooot said:


> Ok I found words that describe the most of my concern. In my old config, pump was pushing water under pressure right into waterblocks. But if I set it how I described it on the picture, pump will be pushing into the reservoir and I will have to rely on pump sucking water from the other side for the most part. I cant say it would be liek this because I simply dont know. But when I try to visualize it, it seems that the water will lose speed when it leaves the pump and goes into the reservoir. I only wish there was a way to test it without actually cutting copper pipes and assembling it together...



Bad idea. Although depending on the pump it's possible I suppose - but why? If you're doing that then the reservoir has absolutely no purpose... just remove it, and fill the loop completely - run a fill line to a T-fitting instead of a reservoir.


The problem isn't a 'loss of speed' as you say although there would initially be a loss of pressure (going from a small tube to a huge one)... once the reservoir was pressurized - you'd have flow from the other side (might be less but not huge difference). However, your reservoir is now 100% all the time for this to work... so it's no longer a means of filling the loop, nor collecting the air bubbles for bleeding.


What problem is solved by attempting to run your loop backwards? RES>PUMP>BLOCKS&RADS>RES is always the best order. _Always._


----------



## OneFunGenesis

^ That is old school lol. But the way it was before res's got popular.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

OneFunGenesis said:


> ^ That is old school lol. But the way it was before res's got popular.



Hehe yep. Ran a dual 370 celeron setup back in the day (like '99 I think?) off a couple of heater cores with aquarium tubing. So wish I had pictures of that rig!


Although to be fair my custom block worked so poorly that after a week of 'fun' I trashed everything and went back to air. 


Edit: Originally thought it was earlier, but those were the 486/P1 days so had to be at least '99 I think. Time sure flies...


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Time sure does. That's awesome.


----------



## Ceadderman

toooooot said:


> Howdy people. I am stuck with my upgrade. Can someone with more experience than me look at the picture below and tell me if this will work.
> I want water from radiator to go into the pump first, then reservoir, and only then to my gpu and cpu blocks.
> I am looking at this idea and I am concerned that the pump pushing water inside reservoir would somehow stay there, in the reservoir and wont efficiently go next to my waterblocks.
> Has anyone done it this way before?
> Anything else you can recommend if you have years of custom looping?
> Again, I want water after the radiator to go into the pump because it seems this way it will be easier to make it look symmetrical with the fittings I got (all bykski). And only after the pump to the reservoir and from there into my cpu/gpu waterblocks.


Not only will it stay there it will cavitate and starve the blocks of coolant. Your thermals would be + °(x)C over optimal. 

Just don't do it man. Reservoirs are meant for one thing and one thing only. Storage to provide the pump inlet plenty of fresh coolant. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## toooooot

Thanks for feedback guys. I guess I will attempt to use all my elbow fittings to make it the right way. I hate my core p3 sometimes... So little space...

I will post the results of my struggle in few days.

Jk, it will probably take months after I realize I dont have enough fittings to make complex L curves and will receive more from aliexpress. 
It would be way easier if I used acrylic tubes, but I must suffer till the end with copper tubes I use right now...


----------



## BradleyW

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Bad idea. Although depending on the pump it's possible I suppose - but why? If you're doing that then the reservoir has absolutely no purpose... just remove it, and fill the loop completely - run a fill line to a T-fitting instead of a reservoir.
> 
> 
> The problem isn't a 'loss of speed' as you say although there would initially be a loss of pressure (going from a small tube to a huge one)... once the reservoir was pressurized - you'd have flow from the other side (might be less but not huge difference). However, your reservoir is now 100% all the time for this to work... so it's no longer a means of filling the loop, nor collecting the air bubbles for bleeding.
> 
> 
> What problem is solved by attempting to run your loop backwards? RES>PUMP>BLOCKS&RADS>RES is always the best order. _Always._


Loop order doesn't matter as long as the flow is sufficient. The only recommendation I make is to have the Res before the Pump just to help prevent it from running dry when filling.


----------



## Ceadderman

BradleyW said:


> Loop order doesn't matter as long as the flow is sufficient. The only recommendation I make is to have the Res before the Pump just to help prevent it from running dry when filling.


This.

Unless you go from Pump to Res. Then it can be an issue. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

why does the pump need to be mounted to the motherboard tray?


----------



## toooooot

"Loop order doesn't matter as long as the flow is sufficient. The only recommendation I make is to have the Res before the Pump just to help prevent it from running dry when filling"

I think I forgot to mention that my reservoir wont be full. So the fountain from the pump would skyrocket into my tall reservoir's air and this pressure/speed would definitely be lost before it goes further to the pipes toward my waterblocks. I tried to visualize it and I am fairly confident now that the only way the water would travel into my waterblocks would be possible by the pump not pushing (because it would be pushing into the free space of my reservoir) but sucking water from the other side.

But thats cool. I am almost able to assemble it the right way as I showed on the picture. Of course, you can see many L fittings I had to use for this purpose, but the pump is a strong eheim pump so I think pressure wont be a problem here.

"why does the pump need to be mounted to the motherboard tray?"
????? It is mounted on the cases' wall below radiator.


----------



## Ceadderman

skupples said:


> why does the pump need to be mounted to the motherboard tray?


Thermaltake Core P design kind of makes it have to be mounted to the tray. :thumb:

Though I am sure it could be mounted to the Radiator instead and the Radiator mount above it even if he had to get a shorter tank. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## toooooot

Ceadderman said:


> Thermaltake Core P design kind of makes it have to be mounted to the tray. :thumb:
> 
> Though I am sure it could be mounted to the Radiator instead and the Radiator mount above it even if he had to get a shorter tank. :thinking:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I I tried doing it this way first. But there is a flaw in case design which prevented me from using it this way. The plate on which you are supposed to mount the pump isn't solid enough. It wobbles up and down. So When I assembled it first I realized that this construction is only supported by the pipes which have nothing other than rubber inside the fittings to hold everything together. I know it could work this way. But I would need to reinforce the plate to make it 100% solid, and since I am not completely comfortable designing my own plate and mechanism that is 100% solid, I did it another way. I am still gonna use the plate though. I will screw it vertically to make sure my tall reservoir is perfectly vertical.

If you look at the picture I took last, the plate will be to the right of the reservoir holding its upper part.


----------



## iSpark

Those shiney's


----------



## toooooot

iSpark said:


> Those shiney's


Love the reflection on pipes


----------



## pdasterly

toooooot said:


> Howdy people. I am stuck with my upgrade. Can someone with more experience than me look at the picture below and tell me if this will work.
> I want water from radiator to go into the pump first, then reservoir, and only then to my gpu and cpu blocks.
> I am looking at this idea and I am concerned that the pump pushing water inside reservoir would somehow stay there, in the reservoir and wont efficiently go next to my waterblocks.
> Has anyone done it this way before?
> Anything else you can recommend if you have years of custom looping?
> Again, I want water after the radiator to go into the pump because it seems this way it will be easier to make it look symmetrical with the fittings I got (all bykski). And only after the pump to the reservoir and from there into my cpu/gpu waterblocks.


not enough radiator, p5 would have been better


----------



## BradleyW

toooooot said:


> "Loop order doesn't matter as long as the flow is sufficient. The only recommendation I make is to have the Res before the Pump just to help prevent it from running dry when filling"
> 
> I think I forgot to mention that my reservoir wont be full. So the fountain from the pump would skyrocket into my tall reservoir's air and this pressure/speed would definitely be lost before it goes further to the pipes toward my waterblocks. I tried to visualize it and I am fairly confident now that the only way the water would travel into my waterblocks would be possible by the pump not pushing (because it would be pushing into the free space of my reservoir) but sucking water from the other side.
> 
> But thats cool. I am almost able to assemble it the right way as I showed on the picture. Of course, you can see many L fittings I had to use for this purpose, but the pump is a strong eheim pump so I think pressure wont be a problem here.
> 
> "why does the pump need to be mounted to the motherboard tray?"
> ????? It is mounted on the cases' wall below radiator.


Whatever you decide, make sure the pump is always saturated by fluid.


----------



## toooooot

pdasterly said:


> not enough radiator, p5 would have been better


I have realized that many times during my previous upgrades. And I think I will sell the case and get myself a new one as a birthday present, but it wont be soon. It just isnt comfortable or many things I could have done.

I like those new acrylic plates they sell on ali now that allow to connect neatly all pipes. Have I had p5, I d definitely buy it.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Anyone here have experience with Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut?

I tend to prefer Kryonaut as it tops all charts (when LM is not included), but I'm currently looking at their big tubes (37g Kryonaut, and 26g Hydronaut) and the price difference is significant.

A quick calculation gives me the following numbers for pricing per gram (1USD=8.62NOK):
- 1g tube Kryonaut 129NOK = 129NOK per gram
- 1g tube Hydronaut 119NOK = 119NOK per gram
- 3.9g tube Hydronaut 159NOK = 40.77NOK per gram
- 5.5g tube Kryonaut 199NOK = 36.19NOK per gram
-11.1g tube Kryonaut 329NOK = 29.64NOK per gram
- 7.8g tube Hydronaut 199NOK = 25.51NOK per gram
-37g tube Kryonaut 749NOK = 20.24NOK per gram
- 26g tube hydronaut 299NOK = 11.50NOK per gram

So given that kryonaut is speced at 12,5 W/mk and Hydronaut at 11,8 W/mk I really don't think I want to pay nearly double for a tube of Kryonaut vs a tube of Hydronaut. Still, this is going to be used on builds where I have already spent several thousands of dollars in components and cooling so I don't mind paying more if the difference is significant enough under water.

Waht do you guys think? 35$ for 26g Hydronaut or 87$ for 37g Kryonaut, is it really worth the price difference when used in room temperature watercooling?


----------



## Nighthog

Did a tear-down last Sunday as the computer had no power and refused to boot at all. Was only a loose cable I think, but either way I took the chance and got some upgrades inside and tried to better the loop order somewhat, Sadly there wasn't really other options available than I already had done before. All new ideas did not work.

Got in a new pump a ddc-1tplus from the earlier regular 1T and changed out my some of the cheap fans for some quality Be Queit Silent Wings 3 high rpm versions.
I'm stumped to see them so quiet! They at max 2000-2200rpm are less loud than my old fans at ~1600rpm and move much more air all across the ranges. (Alphacool Coolmove 1600rpm bulk)

New PSU Seasonic Focus Gold 1000W. (because it's only 140mm long and I thought SFX sizes weren't price competitive)
A Seagate Barracuda 4Tb to change out the old 320/500Gb drives I've had for 10+years.

A new motherboard is on the way so will have to rebuild again soon enough but I wanted to use my computer in the meanwhile. Took only 12hours from after work to get it fixed up and together on Friday into early Saturday morning.


----------



## toooooot

Nighthog said:


> Did a tear-down last Sunday as the computer had no power and refused to boot at all. Was only a loose cable I think, but either way I took the chance and got some upgrades inside and tried to better the loop order somewhat, Sadly there wasn't really other options available than I already had done before. All new ideas did not work.
> 
> Got in a new pump a ddc-1tplus from the earlier regular 1T and changed out my some of the cheap fans for some quality Be Queit Silent Wings 3 high rpm versions.
> I'm stumped to see them so quiet! They at max 2000-2200rpm are less loud than my old fans at ~1600rpm and move much more air all across the ranges. (Alphacool Coolmove 1600rpm bulk)
> 
> New PSU Seasonic Focus Gold 1000W. (because it's only 140mm long and I thought SFX sizes weren't price competitive)
> A Seagate Barracuda 4Tb to change out the old 320/500Gb drives I've had for 10+years.
> 
> A new motherboard is on the way so will have to rebuild again soon enough but I wanted to use my computer in the meanwhile. Took only 12hours from after work to get it fixed up and together on Friday into early Saturday morning.


I had a chance to use bequiet fans recently. I liked them too. Very quiet indeed and the manufacturer found a nice spot to price them. I wanted corsair because m client had the money. But after staring at the price for few minutes I looked for alternative. I will miss those hearing my turbine sounding Aigo fans


----------



## skupples

Nighthog said:


> Did a tear-down last Sunday as the computer had no power and refused to boot at all. Was only a loose cable I think, but either way I took the chance and got some upgrades inside and tried to better the loop order somewhat, Sadly there wasn't really other options available than I already had done before. All new ideas did not work.
> 
> Got in a new pump a ddc-1tplus from the earlier regular 1T and changed out my some of the cheap fans for some quality Be Queit Silent Wings 3 high rpm versions.
> I'm stumped to see them so quiet! They at max 2000-2200rpm are less loud than my old fans at ~1600rpm and move much more air all across the ranges. (Alphacool Coolmove 1600rpm bulk)
> 
> New PSU Seasonic Focus Gold 1000W. (because it's only 140mm long and I thought SFX sizes weren't price competitive)
> A Seagate Barracuda 4Tb to change out the old 320/500Gb drives I've had for 10+years.
> 
> A new motherboard is on the way so will have to rebuild again soon enough but I wanted to use my computer in the meanwhile. Took only 12hours from after work to get it fixed up and together on Friday into early Saturday morning.


what tubing is that, and was it clear when you first started? Asking for a friend.


----------



## Nighthog

skupples said:


> what tubing is that, and was it clear when you first started? Asking for a friend.


It'a supposed to be clear tubing but I seem to get this opaque/white build-up inside them, you can easily just rub it off from the insides if you have something to push trough the tubes to clean them. Was just a bit lazy and didn't think of cleaning them up before re-assembly. Though the "frosty" effect can have it's uses though... It only really gets stuck on the tubes and the acrylic reservoir manages without it for the most part unless it's half full and gets the build-up on the drier parts.


----------



## Ceadderman

Rainmaker91 said:


> 35$ for 26g Hydronaut or 87$ for 37g KrKryona...


11g difference between the two. But I would suggest Kryonaut over Hydronaut due to the higher cost of Kryonaut being not so much gram for gram when compared to Hydronaut in a 1:1 situation.

So if you can find out the price of a 37g tube of Hydronaut that's what I would use to figure out the difference. If the cost is negligible, then go with Kryo if it's still a constraint go with Hydro. :mellowsmi 

I had issues with the one tube of Hydro I got. It was solidified enough that it wasn't easily applied. I contacted my vendor and they shuffled me off to TG. TG said they would replace it... nothing further came of it so I stick with Ectotherm. Lord knows I have enough of that as one tube comes with every block purchase. 

I am simply relating not down talking anyone. I believe that my one experience was likely anomalous. There are plenty of successes that suggest this. I just chose to go with the free stuff. :mellowsmi

EDIT... Nighthog has some plasticizer issues going on skup. No flexible poly tubing is without it as that's what makes them flexible. And why I will never use the stuff ever again. It's rigid or zmt from now on for me.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## toooooot

Hello fellow enthusiasts. Here is my update. I drilled so many holes. Unfortunately many of them in wrong places. But what hole a piece of white chewed gum cant cover, right?
Anyways, I am almost ready to test for leaks, one last pipe to cut.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Ceadderman said:


> 11g difference between the two. But I would suggest Kryonaut over Hydronaut due to the higher cost of Kryonaut being not so much gram for gram when compared to Hydronaut in a 1:1 situation.
> 
> So if you can find out the price of a 37g tube of Hydronaut that's what I would use to figure out the difference. If the cost is negligible, then go with Kryo if it's still a constraint go with Hydro. :mellowsmi
> 
> I had issues with the one tube of Hydro I got. It was solidified enough that it wasn't easily applied. I contacted my vendor and they shuffled me off to TG. TG said they would replace it... nothing further came of it so I stick with Ectotherm. Lord knows I have enough of that as one tube comes with every block purchase.
> 
> I am simply relating not down talking anyone. I believe that my one experience was likely anomalous. There are plenty of successes that suggest this. I just chose to go with the free stuff. :mellowsmi
> 
> EDIT... Nighthog has some plasticizer issues going on skup. No flexible poly tubing is without it as that's what makes them flexible. And why I will never use the stuff ever again. It's rigid or zmt from now on for me.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


37g Kryo should be in the post, and 26g was the maximum size I could find for Hydro. The calculations for price per gram is also listed, and Krynaut in a 37g syringe is about 80% more expensive per gram. I'd say that is a substantial difference, though I am not against buying Kryonaut if that actually gives me a beneficial increase.


----------



## Ceadderman

Rainmaker91 said:


> 37g Kryo should be in the post, and 26g was the maximum size I could find for Hydro. The calculations for price per gram is also listed, and Krynaut in a 37g syringe is about 80% more expensive per gram. I'd say that is a substantial difference, though I am not against buying Kryonaut if that actually gives me a beneficial increase.


Put your Algebra hat on my friend. No way Kryonaut is 80% more expensive. Regardless of whether you can in reality get 37grams of Hydronaut, you need to figure out how much a gram 27g is and do the math to get you the price of 37g. Then subtract that number from the price of Kryonaut. That should give you the actual percentage of Kryonaut over Hydronaut. It's not 80%. 

Or maybe this doesn't matter, since Kryonaut is on its way already. But seriously if nothing else I would do the math. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Rainmaker91

Ceadderman said:


> Put your Algebra hat on my friend. No way Kryonaut is 80% more expensive. Regardless of whether you can in reality get 37grams of Hydronaut, you need to figure out how much a gram 27g is and do the math to get you the price of 37g. Then subtract that number from the price of Kryonaut. That should give you the actual percentage of Kryonaut over Hydronaut. It's not 80%.
> 
> Or maybe this doesn't matter, since Kryonaut is on its way already. But seriously if nothing else I would do the math.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Except I did the math:

37g Kryonaut @749NOK; 749/37= 20.24... meaning 20.24NOK per weight
26g Hydronaut @299NOK; 299/26= 11.5 meaning 11.5NOK per weight

There is 2 ways of looking at the percentages here:
There is this: ((22.24/11.5)-1)*100= 93.39% which shows how much more expensive the Kryonaut is than the Hydronaut per weight.
Then there is this: ((20.24-11.5)/20.24)*100= 43.2% which shows that The Hydronaut is 43.2% cheaper than the Kryonaut.

I'm fine with admitting that my quick and dirty head calculations wasn't up to snuff, but the point still stands. Especially since Kryonaut is significantly more expensive per weight than Hydronaut.


----------



## dwolvin

Devils' advocate: you should be comparing volume, since that will give you a better look at price per application...


----------



## Rainmaker91

dwolvin said:


> Devils' advocate: you should be comparing volume, since that will give you a better look at price per application...


Which is precisely my point, For the price of a single tube of 37g Kryonaut I can get 2 1/2 tube of 26g Hydronaut. That is why I calculated the price per gram to start with.

The real question remains though, is Kryonaut good enough to justify nearly twice the price of Hydronaut? Cause I'm fine with buying Kryonaut if it is, otherwise I'm leaning towards Hydronaut.

Edit: hmm... I was under the conclusion that Kryonaut and Hydronaut weighed about the same, hence the price per gram rather than price per volume. But it seems they don't at all. In fact Hydronaut is 2.6g per ml while Kryonaut is 3.7g per ml, meaning that the tube of Hydronaut and Kryonaut actually contains the exact same volume.


----------



## skupples

thats a choice only you can make, like many of us have made before. Example - getting the BEST POSSIBLE thermal tape, which is basically a thin slab of clay.


----------



## Nighthog

On Monday the new Biostar X470GT8 motherboard arrived for testing.

Had to rebuild it again.

A comparison of boards and the Biostar came with AM3/AM2 mounting holes to my surprise, not that I needed them though.

Sadly I noticed a issue that the pump wasn't pushing water as it should and had done before. So I took it apart today again and opened up the pump to check it out but found no issue. 
3rd rebuild didn't help anything. Water still isn't circulating. I'm tired...

I've spun the damn chassis 360degrees around in all manners and it doesn't help anything. It worked like a charm before I did the motherboard change didn't have to anything special and it had just worked earlier. 

Another disappointment...


----------



## Streetdragon

Is the pump pwm? than set the headder in the bios to turbo or whatever it calls for full speed.
If not, change the speed manuelly to full power.

The only thing that i would try^^


----------



## Nighthog

Streetdragon said:


> Is the pump pwm? than set the headder in the bios to turbo or whatever it calls for full speed.
> If not, change the speed manuelly to full power.
> 
> The only thing that i would try^^


It's a 4pin molex, only full power 12V.

I found the issue as I drained and checked the parts once again.

I took out the GPU and tried to rinse it... it was completely blocked. had to open the water block to find this large piece of gunk blocking all the water going trough it on the gpu-cooling-plate.
I could not even blow air trough the block with my mouth so it had to be a issue there. And behold it works now as I removed and did a trough brushing of the fins as there was much gunk in the fins. (never cleaned it before)


----------



## Dagamus NM

Nighthog said:


> It's a 4pin molex, only full power 12V.
> 
> I found the issue as I drained and checked the parts once again.
> 
> I took out the GPU and tried to rinse it... it was completely blocked. had to open the water block to find this large piece of gunk blocking all the water going trough it on the gpu-cooling-plate.
> I could not even blow air trough the block with my mouth so it had to be a issue there. And behold it works now as I removed and did a trough brushing of the fins as there was much gunk in the fins. (never cleaned it before)


Well done solving that. What pump are you using? Can't tell from your pictures.


----------



## ThrashZone

Nighthog said:


> It's a 4pin molex, only full power 12V.
> 
> I found the issue as I drained and checked the parts once again.
> 
> I took out the GPU and tried to rinse it... it was completely blocked. had to open the water block to find this large piece of gunk blocking all the water going trough it on the gpu-cooling-plate.
> I could not even blow air trough the block with my mouth so it had to be a issue there. And behold it works now as I removed and did a trough brushing of the fins as there was much gunk in the fins. (never cleaned it before)


Hi,
Which fluid did you use ?
I had bad mojo clogging from EK premix.


----------



## Nighthog

Dagamus NM said:


> Well done solving that. What pump are you using? Can't tell from your pictures.


A regular Laing DDC-1TPlus, I changed out from a Laing DDC-1T that barely could handle all the bends. 
The DDC has a Alphacool DDC black V.2 top on it. I retrofitted my reservoir using a double nippel G1/4 to G1/4 adapter to attach directly to the top.


ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Which fluid did you use ?
> I had bad mojo clogging from EK premix.


Just regular battery water for the most part though mixed with some Alphacool CKC coolant in the beginning. I've reused the water a few times putting it trough a coffee-filter. 
I must have missed some gunk when I put it back once and it all collected at the first block that is the GPX GPU cooler.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nighthog said:


> It's a 4pin molex, only full power 12V.
> 
> I found the issue as I drained and checked the parts once again.
> 
> I took out the GPU and tried to rinse it... it was completely blocked. had to open the water block to find this large piece of gunk blocking all the water going trough it on the gpu-cooling-plate.
> I could not even blow air trough the block with my mouth so it had to be a issue there. And behold it works now as I removed and did a trough brushing of the fins as there was much gunk in the fins. (never cleaned it before)


Glad you fount it. Did you flush your radiator(s) thoroughly before installing your loop? Kind of at a loss as to how a big piece of poo could lodge itself in your GPU block if you did.
-------------------------

On an up note... Sort of.

Got my latest build on the way...

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qkMjxG

Mind you I didn't have the patience to add more than the Monoblock and GPU block but I have a PWM D5 and top. As well as having a 360 SE and 360 PE on the way. This is going to be a parallel build by way of RAM block.

As it stands I am considering this flow route...

D5 to RAM in, through BP 3pin RGB flow device.
RAM to Monoblock.
Monoblock to GPU. 
RAM to top Rad.
Top Rad to Res.
Res to Side Rad.
Side Rad to Bottom Rad.
Bottom Rad to pump.

Might switch up the bottom and side Rad flow but will have to wait and see since all O11 Dynamics are currently sold out everywhere that didn't have a huge markup on them. 

So I will know more when I get one. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Nighthog

Ceadderman said:


> Glad you fount it. Did you flush your radiator(s) thoroughly before installing your loop? Kind of at a loss as to how a big piece of poo could lodge itself in your GPU block if you did


Yeah probably my own fault as it was like a piece of hair/dust that went into the loop when I wasn't careful enough, I have a fairly dust generating room so could be a accumulation off time that it built up till a large tuff went inside. 

And nope never rinsed my radiators, couldn't be assed enough to bother with it. Though I notice particulates get out every time I drain the radiators, not much but enough to notice there is stuff in them.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Nighthog said:


> A regular Laing DDC-1TPlus, I changed out from a Laing DDC-1T that barely could handle all the bends.
> The DDC has a Alphacool DDC black V.2 top on it. I retrofitted my reservoir using a double nippel G1/4 to G1/4 adapter to attach directly to the top.
> 
> Just regular battery water for the most part though mixed with some Alphacool CKC coolant in the beginning. I've reused the water a few times putting it trough a coffee-filter.
> I must have missed some gunk when I put it back once and it all collected at the first block that is the GPX GPU cooler.


All of my pump woes have been from DDCs. I only use D5s now.

Well, if it is in there it is probably in a lot of other places. A good solid loop cleaning should help.


----------



## Nighthog

Dagamus NM said:


> All of my pump woes have been from DDCs. I only use D5s now.
> 
> Well, if it is in there it is probably in a lot of other places. A good solid loop cleaning should help.


I should have cleaned them all the first time I did my rebuild but instead it went like 4 rebuilds and 1 part cleaned each time...
First the cpu-block... and switch from DDC-1T -> DDC-1TPlus then I cleaned the reservoir and then the pump again and finally the gpu-block where the issue was. What a damn hassle this has been.


----------



## skupples

gunk is usually from bad coolant, not properly cleaned radiators, & fuzz, it then all gets stuck together in the transfer plates. 

I've only used DDCs, current pair (swiftech MCP35x2) are on 5+ years of up time. 

those weird cheep ebay counterfeits are sketch though.


----------



## Majentrix

Got the watercooling itch again. This time I have some specialized plumbing equipment on-hand which should make things a little interesting.

Stay tuned.


----------



## toooooot

Majentrix said:


> Got the watercooling itch again. This time I have some specialized plumbing equipment on-hand which should make things a little interesting.
> 
> Stay tuned.


I sense steampunk mod.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Bought this brand new & unopened a couple of weeks ago from a guy selling it on ebay here in the states. I'm so looking forward to this new build, but this time I'll take my time selecting my components.


----------



## J7SC

Hello  water-cooling aficionados - 

I had been doing a lot of 'regular' water-cooling builds for almost a decade, and after some major rebuilds and inventory search at our store room, I found / had a lot of equipment left over (rads, pumps, fittings). After cleaning everything thoroughly, I embarked on the build below (just a few intro-pics for now), which consists of a Thermaltake Core P5, a 2950X Threadripper, a MSI X399 Creation mobo, 2x Aorus 2080 Ti Xtr WB (factory water-blocked) GPUs etc.

The system has two loops (one for CPU, one for GPUs) to deal with oc'ed CPU and oc'ed GPUs (just shy of 1100W combined heat energy): 

- CPU loop has 2x XSPC 360/60 rads with 2x MPC 655 pumps and 6x GentleTyphoon 120mm fans
- GPU loop has 3x XSPC 360/60 rads with 2x MPC 655 pumps and 3x GentleTyhpoon 120mm fans + 3x Noctua 120mm fans + 6x Corsair ML120 fans. GPU tubing (the horizontal white ones) and elbows are copper, the rest is Primoflex 3/4 OD 1/2 ID UV tubing. 

More pics to come soon...


----------



## toooooot

ProfeZZor X said:


> Bought this brand new & unopened a couple of weeks ago from a guy selling it on ebay here in the states. I'm so looking forward to this new build, but this time I'll take my time selecting my components.


This looks like a better version of Thermaltake's Core p5.
And as an owner of p3 case, I am really jealous of this case.
That front panel allows for easier radiator mount. That bottom cover hides a power supply and isnt available for Core p3 or p5.
Top cover can also come in handy. And dont get me wrong, I love what Thermaltake did. But this case has that and more.
I love your choice, and good luck building. Make sure take take HQ photos in well lit room and post them here!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

toooooot said:


> This looks like a better version of Thermaltake's Core p5.
> And as an owner of p3 case, I am really jealous of this case.
> That front panel allows for easier radiator mount. That bottom cover hides a power supply and isnt available for Core p3 or p5.
> Top cover can also come in handy. And dont get me wrong, I love what Thermaltake did. But this case has that and more.
> I love your choice, and good luck building. Make sure take take HQ photos in well lit room and post them here!


They also make an integrated manifold to replace the front panel, and a floating manifold that's situated directly in front of the CPU. The "Spectre Elite" manifolds are similar in design to the case itself, but it's more for aesthetics than practical functionality. Singularity claims that its purpose is to eliminate the need for more tubing. But what's even more disappointing is the price, which is the cost of 3 of Corsair's largest cases.


----------



## toooooot




----------



## toooooot

As you can see I followed the advice and managed to make it possible for water to go to reservoir first and then to the pump. I spent most of my extenders. This wouldn't be possible without my little friends.


----------



## skupples

anyone in the US played around with Kyerivs fittings? 

Are they just the US division Barrow? Kinda what it looks like.


----------



## toooooot

skupples said:


> anyone in the US played around with Kyerivs fittings?
> 
> Are they just the US division Barrow? Kinda what it looks like.


Check Amazon reviews for these. I havent had any problems with barrow fittings in a year of use.
But people write the paint is of low quality and they leak.


----------



## davidm71

*EK Block thermal pads*

Hi,

Got to redo my EK Classy 980 Ti block with new thermal pads and was wondering if anyone knows what thickness and dimension of pads I need? Any recommendations?

Thanks.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
EK might have a thermal pad kit they do have okay thermal pads.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

toooooot said:


> As you can see I followed the advice and managed to make it possible for water to go to reservoir first and then to the pump. I spent most of my extenders. This wouldn't be possible without my little friends.


It turned out nice, and I'm sure glad you decided to put the res before the pump.

With the chrome standoffs of the case, the chrome tubing fits right in - and having a little extra to get the loop order right doesn't take away from the appearance IMHO.


----------



## skupples

davidm71 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Got to redo my EK Classy 980 Ti block with new thermal pads and was wondering if anyone knows what thickness and dimension of pads I need? Any recommendations?
> 
> Thanks.



EK & EVGA both list this in their downloadable PDF manuals. (I'd answer if I remembered off the top of my head)

aftermarket thermal pads, specially the high quality ones, are pretty expensive. They're pretty damn cool though! They're basically sheets of clay.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep toooooot that chrome is working :thumb:


----------



## Rainmaker91

J7SC said:


> Hello  water-cooling aficionados -
> 
> I had been doing a lot of 'regular' water-cooling builds for almost a decade, and after some major rebuilds and inventory search at our store room, I found / had a lot of equipment left over (rads, pumps, fittings). After cleaning everything thoroughly, I embarked on the build below (just a few intro-pics for now), which consists of a Thermaltake Core P5, a 2950X Threadripper, a MSI X399 Creation mobo, 2x Aorus 2080 Ti Xtr WB (factory water-blocked) GPUs etc.
> 
> The system has two loops (one for CPU, one for GPUs) to deal with oc'ed CPU and oc'ed GPUs (just shy of 1100W combined heat energy):
> 
> - CPU loop has 2x XSPC 360/60 rads with 2x MPC 655 pumps and 6x GentleTyphoon 120mm fans
> - GPU loop has 3x XSPC 360/60 rads with 2x MPC 655 pumps and 3x GentleTyhpoon 120mm fans + 3x Noctua 120mm fans + 6x Corsair ML120 fans. GPU tubing (the horizontal white ones) and elbows are copper, the rest is Primoflex 3/4 OD 1/2 ID UV tubing.
> 
> More pics to come soon...


Cool build, I had the same idea with a different approach. I have a main system that's taking a long time to do, and with lots of waiting periods now and then. So I started another build for a "retro" PC, though It's only sort of retro as I will use it for all my emulators and stuff, but it'w running win 7 so that steam functions properly.

Mostly left over stuff, though I punctured my Phobya 360x60mm rad adn had to get a new HwLabs GTX 360 to replace it. It's a Phenom 9950be/HD4890 system:


----------



## J7SC

Rainmaker91 said:


> Cool build, I had the same idea with a different approach. I have a main system that's taking a long time to do, and with lots of waiting periods now and then. So I started another build for a "retro" PC, though It's only sort of retro as I will use it for all my emulators and stuff, but it'w running win 7 so that steam functions properly.
> 
> Mostly left over stuff, though I punctured my Phobya 360x60mm rad adn had to get a new HwLabs GTX 360 to replace it. It's a Phenom 9950be/HD4890 system:



Thank you  ...yeah, I know what you mean. This build took longer than I wanted / I had to RMA the mobo (X399 Creation) because of an 'oopsie' and was using a X399 Carbon Pro on a temp basis - which has a different form factor and NVLink spacing, a big problem when using copper tubing. Apart from the copper, all water-cooling stuff was 'old' but pulled out of retirement and thoroughly cleaned up. It is *actually a ton of fun to reconstitute old stuff*...while waiting for the RMA, I put together two Asus E-WS (X79, X99) one as a as a file server, the other as the daily beast of burden (incl. DB productivity).


----------



## Rainmaker91

J7SC said:


> Thank you  ...yeah, I know what you mean. This build took longer than I wanted / I had to RMA the mobo (X399 Creation) because of an 'oopsie' and was using a X399 Carbon Pro on a temp basis - which has a different form factor and NVLink spacing, a big problem when using copper tubing. Apart from the copper, all water-cooling stuff was 'old' but pulled out of retirement and thoroughly cleaned up. It is *actually a ton of fun to reconstitute old stuff*...while waiting for the RMA, I put together two Asus E-WS (X79, X99) one as a as a file server, the other as the daily beast of burden (incl. DB productivity).


Yep, old stuff is way more fun than new stuff. Especially when you have a limited amount of parts laying around and you have to mishmash together some unconventional setup because that is just what you have laying around, pairing a 2 year old block with a 10 year old rad or something other is just fun to see. Or you can reuse an old mobo block to cool that old GPU VRM (the hd4890 and hd4870 had really hot VRMs) which is also fun  EKWB+Mips= <3


----------



## J7SC

Rainmaker91 said:


> Yep, old stuff is way more fun than new stuff. Especially when you have a limited amount of parts laying around and you have to mishmash together some unconventional setup because that is just what you have laying around, pairing a 2 year old block with a 10 year old rad or something other is just fun to see. Or you can reuse an old mobo block to cool that old GPU VRM (the hd4890 and hd4870 had really hot VRMs) which is also fun  EKWB+Mips= <3



...probably has been done already in some form, but a nice 'rad rod' build out of old parts could be interesting :thinking:


----------



## skupples

the X59 monolith w/ GTX580s


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> the X59 monolith w/ GTX580s



...after my most recent build posted before, a bit more colorful perhaps > green + purple on the X59 mobo, black and electric blue on the 580 Lightning...I think you're onto something interesting in rad rod terms


----------



## skupples

just taking the best of an era, n 580 was the last of the Fermi! everything was truly win7+ dx11+ after that, right?


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> just taking the best of an era, n 580 was the last of the Fermi! everything was truly win7+ dx11+ after that, right?


 
...haven't got any Fermis laying around, but a pile of Keplers (600 and 700 series). For OS > Windows Server 2008 R2, just because  . There are also my old-time pals (an Asus Maximus V Ex w/ a delidded 3770K which does 5.2 on custom water all day long) laying in the store room...put all that in a giant steel server case from the mid-90s and paint everything flat black before 'rat rod' copper tubing for the CPU and three uni-block Kepler GPUs in Tri-SLI :thinking:


----------



## MikeTimbers

Aim was to create a silent folding machine using recycled and new parts with a desire to have the least possible tubing. Case is a Fractal Design Define S. There is an Alphacool 280mm Crossflow in the roof with fans pulling (makes it easier to clean) and an Alphacool 280mm in the front with slightly more powerful fans pushing (the case has a filter on the front).

Pump is a recycled Swiftech MCP350 with the XSPC res.

First card is a Titan X with an EK block and backplate bought used.
Second card is a 1070 with an EK block bought used.
CPU is a Pentium G4400 (enough to drive the cards for [email protected]) cooled by a £10 block bought from China.
Fittings are mostly Barrow.
Fluid is EK Cryofuel and the tubing is EK Duraclear.

It runs at permanent full load producing around 1.5M points per day.
CPU temp is currently 45C and the two cards are around 50-51C. Ambient is 21C.


----------



## khemist

Done the frosted/satin look to the tubing.


----------



## Ceadderman

MikeTimbers said:


> Aim was to create a silent folding machine using recycled and new parts with a desire to have the least possible tubing. Case is a Fractal Design Define S. There is an Alphacool 280mm Crossflow in the roof with fans pulling (makes it easier to clean) and an Alphacool 280mm in the front with slightly more powerful fans pushing (the case has a filter on the front).
> 
> Pump is a recycled Swiftech MCP350 with the XSPC res.
> 
> First card is a Titan X with an EK block and backplate bought used.
> Second card is a 1070 with an EK block bought used.
> CPU is a Pentium G4400 (enough to drive the cards for [email protected]) cooled by a £10 block bought from China.
> Fittings are mostly Barrow.
> Fluid is EK Cryofuel and the tubing is EK Duraclear.
> 
> It runs at permanent full load producing around 1.5M points per day.
> CPU temp is currently 45C and the two cards are around 50-51C. Ambient is 21C.


Nice Folder. Pretty sure Black Snow would barely kick its but in PPD but that's not the aim of this build. It's a do everything platform that I plan to upgrade next year with 2 components. 

Am sad mebbe. :mellowsmi 

I am expecting a 100(+/-) piece order from PPCs. Just went over the purchase listing and noticed that my replacement RAM sinks may be a module short. So instead of 2 modules I can only do one. Which hinders my aim of blocking my TridentZ sticks for the moment. Going to go parallel for RAM, CPU and GPU. So yeah I guess I will have to skip over the RAM for the moment and fix it when I get everything necessary. 

Ehheh guess I was worried about nothing. 2 module kit.  :wheee:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## looniam

khemist said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done the frosted/satin look to the tubing.


the tubing and the lines look really smooth. :thumb:


----------



## toooooot

khemist

:up:

What mobo and gpu block are those?


----------



## khemist

Gigabyte Aourus master and heatkiller block for 1080ti.


----------



## toooooot

khemist said:


> Gigabyte Aourus master and heatkiller block for 1080ti.


I love heatkiller blocks. I d pick them over almost anything else European designed or all the Chinese. But then, when money is limited, I either go for pre owned or Chinese :F


----------



## Ceadderman

looniam said:


> the tubing and the lines look really smooth. :thumb:


Would look even better in Parallel but those bends are hella clean. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## J7SC

khemist said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done the frosted/satin look to the tubing.


 
Love the frosted look, the colours and lighting :thumb:


----------



## ProfeZZor X

khemist said:


> Done the frosted/satin look to the tubing.


Looks clean. Reminds me of the texture on a frosted martini glass. What grade sand paper did you use to get that look?


----------



## khemist

ProfeZZor X said:


> Looks clean. Reminds me of the texture on a frosted martini glass. What grade sand paper did you use to get that look?



500 and 1000 grit soft sanding pads.


----------



## tw33k

finally got a chance to upgrade my 6700K to a 9900K today. re-did the loop, new board and CPU block


----------



## Questors

toooooot said:


> *I love heatkiller blocks. I d pick them over almost anything else European designed or all the Chinese.* But then, when money is limited, I either go for pre owned or Chinese :F


This! Love me some Heatkiller. :thumb:



J7SC said:


> Love the frosted look, the colours and lighting :thumb:


I couldn't help but chuckle at this. I fuss, worry and groan when working with clear acrylic tube, to do with scratching or marring. Even scrap a piece and bend another if it happens. Here is a nice looking build where it was done on purpose. Oh the irony.


----------



## khemist

Questors said:


> This! Love me some Heatkiller. :thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't help but chuckle at this. I fuss, worry and groan when working with clear acrylic tube, to do with scratching or marring. Even scrap a piece and bend another if it happens. Here is a nice looking build where it was done on purpose. Oh the irony.


I was the same, surprised i've not seen lots of people doing it, takes a few minutes and makes the tubing look like it's made that way.


----------



## skupples

Anyone tested running EK velocity backward?

I know it wasn’t much of an issue with the old metal jet plate but the design is quite a bit different now...


----------



## Ceadderman

khemist said:


> I was the same, surprised i've not seen lots of people doing it, takes a few minutes and makes the tubing look like it's made that way.


Probably because the majority run dye. They want to see the purty color running through their loop. Not me. I run distilled so clear rigid is not all that an frosting it might as well be the same as what I have now. 1/2"x 5/8" White acrylic tubing. If I want a change in color I will sleeve up with MDPC sleeving. 

But I do like that frosted look. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## J7SC

Questors said:


> (edit)
> 
> I couldn't help but chuckle at this. I fuss, worry and groan when working with clear acrylic tube, to do with scratching or marring. Even scrap a piece and bend another if it happens. Here is a nice looking build where it was done on purpose. Oh the irony.


 
Irony indeed..I've scratched and marred many builds before, but this time on my latest build (had posted on this before, but some changes), I went with solid copper tubes (for the GPUs anyway) covered in white acrylic foil...if I scratch it, the roll of foil still has almost 30 feet left  

...still, I like to try a 'frosted build' later in the year


----------



## skupples

Got it sorted... LOL

I’m buying a house soon. So all the cost savings possible.


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> Got it sorted... LOL
> 
> I’m buying a house soon. So all the cost savings possible.


 
Nice ! ...and I like the choice of colors


----------



## skupples

J7SC said:


> skupples said:
> 
> 
> 
> Got it sorted... LOL
> 
> I’m buying a house soon. So all the cost savings possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice ! ...and I like the choice of colors /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

Thx. I’ve Been lazy n cheep this time around, but that’s cuz I know the secret. Nothing good is coming until after the new consoles release. 

I just failed harder than I’ve ever failed before.

Bottom GPU had I high pressure leak right at the out/up. 

Luckily it wasn’t connected to the PSU... however the system was on. 

Therapy -


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> Thx. I’ve Been lazy n cheep this time around, but that’s cuz I know the secret. Nothing good is coming until after the new consoles release.
> 
> I just failed harder than I’ve ever failed before.
> 
> Bottom GPU had I high pressure leak right at the out/up.
> 
> Luckily it wasn’t connected to the PSU... however the system was on.
> 
> Therapy -



By the sound of it, no major damage as a result ?! I use a 'portable' old 4790k w/ 'naked' mobo + Corsair 850w PSU as a surrogate to connect pumps and fans for leak-testing a new build, bleeding air bubbles etc...


----------



## skupples

I was just being laZy. Skipping hot wiring the PSU. I pulled the cable n dealt with it within seconds of hearing it & it only has PCI-E power, n was still in post, so I should be good. 

I have a habit of covering 90% of the rear components with .5 mm thermal padding (can’t remember the brand. The super expensive clay like stuff). So a good dose of heat & time should resolve any potential issues. I’m waiting on a 120mmSLI bridge anyways since I had to use weird spacing to make the two diff gen blocks mate.


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> I was just being laZy. Skipping hot wiring the PSU. I pulled the cable n dealt with it within seconds of hearing it & it only has PCI-E power, n was still in post, so I should be good.
> 
> I have a habit of covering 90% of the rear components with .5 mm thermal padding (can’t remember the brand. The super expensive clay like stuff). So a good dose of heat & time should resolve any potential issues. I’m waiting on a 120mmSLI bridge anyways since I had to use weird spacing to make the two diff gen blocks mate.


 
...what kind of 120mm SLI bridge ? Link perhaps ?


----------



## skupples

Asus 120mm flexible bridge. 

SLi bridge is a SLi bridge. I wanted to use my old fancy evga, but as stated pascal titan and GTX 1080bloxks don’t sync up 

I dreamt my house caught on fire cuz of this card getting wet. 0.0


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> Asus 120mm flexible bridge.
> 
> SLi bridge is a SLi bridge. I wanted to use my old fancy evga, but as stated pascal titan and GTX 1080bloxks don’t sync up
> 
> I dreamt my house caught on fire cuz of this card getting wet. 0.0


 
Thanks for the SLI bridge info...  ...and *pleasant (!) * dreams !


----------



## Andrew LB

toooooot said:


> Check Amazon reviews for these. I havent had any problems with barrow fittings in a year of use.
> But people write the paint is of low quality and they leak.


The only way i can see people having problems with the paint on Barrow fittings is from using pliers to tighten them or just not being careful during assembly. Any leaking i'd wager is user error 95% of the time, especially when using hard tubing. Improper camfering of the cut ends will result in damaged o-rings regardless of the fitting manufacturer. One would think that barrow tends to get more people new to water cooling because of the lower costs.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Andrew LB said:


> toooooot said:
> 
> 
> 
> Check Amazon reviews for these. I havent had any problems with barrow fittings in a year of use.
> But people write the paint is of low quality and they leak.
> 
> 
> 
> The only way i can see people having problems with the paint on Barrow fittings is from using pliers to tighten them or just not being careful during assembly. Any leaking i'd wager is user error 95% of the time, especially when using hard tubing. Improper camfering of the cut ends will result in damaged o-rings regardless of the fitting manufacturer. One would think that barrow tends to get more people new to water cooling because of the lower costs.
Click to expand...


I have been using Barrow/Darkside fittings for a few years now and never had a leak from any of their products. Also had all black and the paint is still intact at this point.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I've been looking for the black Barrow CPU block with the color OLED temperature screen for the longest. Hope someone gets it in stock really soon, so I can continue my build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Gonna be putting my Black Snow loop together soon.

I am thinking the best route for this loop is Parallel:

Pump > RAM block > MonoBlock > capped off GPU > MonoBlock > RAM block > Radiator 1 > Radiator 2 > Reservoir > Radiator 3 > Pump. 

Three Radiators in and O11 D Case. 

So if anyone has a thought or better course of action, I would really like to hear it.

Just thought I would post some D5 love here. I got 3 Barrows offset fan brackets and modded one to allow an EK D5 pump to mount to it. 

Top pic is the end result of modding the offset bracket to fit the EK D5 pump mount. Knocked it out of the park on the first attempt. 

Middle pic is an unmodded bracket laying behind the modded bracket with pump.

3rd pic is of the unmodded bracket before modding. I can get another pic of it modded but where is the fun in that.  lol

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

How is it that water isn’t coming outta here when I open it? It also didn’t gasp for air. Top rad, before return. Top of case. (Loop is 5 years old. Just swapped out some insides)

Loop goes res/pump>bottom rad>front rad>mobo stuff>up to top rad>down to res/pump.

Also - woot woot. I got the mismatching bloxks installed. 

Flow is fine 150LP/h via an ancient MCP35x2. Removing one radiator and a few 90s increased it by 20-30


----------



## c3LaL35

Final time


----------



## vicyo

It has been a while but I'm slowly getting back at this money-burning hobby 

I almost made a mistake buying a kraken x62, but luckly amazon recommended this weird H280 X3 kit for almost the same price. How naive I was, thinking that I would just replace the fittings and leave it alone hahahaha

Already got some parts ordered from bitspower and even got a badge engineered "TouchAqua" block for the 1080 for less than 70USD


----------



## MrFox

I saw the Der8auer Skylake-X Die Frame was finally in stock several places. I just installed one this weekend and I am pretty happy with the results. These temps are with the water chiller turned off, so I am going to have to see if I can push my benching overclock past 5.3GHz with the chiller running.

Installation was simple. Initially temperatures were horrible. I tried reseating the CPU about a dozen times and it was insanely hot (105°C core max and 111°C package temps running Cinebench at 5.0GHz). Nothing worked. I knew there had to be some element of human error for it running hotter with a bare die. Well, after I got to studying it closer to see exactly how it was made and scrutinizing everything closer to try to figure out what I did wrong, I noticed that the old nail polish I had covering the SMDs was under the area that holds the CPU down in two places. The old nail polish was applied really thick. So, I got some acetone and polished up the CPU until it was squeaky clean and all of the old nail polish was removed. I reassembled it and then applied new nail polish so it would not be in between the CPU and die frame. Now temps are great. Too bad I didn't do that first, LOL. I wasted two applications of Conductonaut, an application of Kryonaut and Phobya Nanogrease Extreme trying to reseat the CPU and figure out why it was running so hot.

I left the adhesive covers on the circular rubber bumpers. Der8auer recommends only exposing the adhesive on one of them because they are strong and may make it difficult to remove the back plate later, but I left them all on. When I took it apart to clean up the CPU it didn't fall off of the motherboard even without the adhesives exposed.

Below are some photos with before/after temps. Temps were generated with 3 back-to-back runs before and after. I like the product. It is well made and I would buy it again. Learn from my mistake and be sure there is no nail polish (or any of the original black IHS sealant) on the CPU, as it will interfere with contact by making the top of the die shorter than the top of the die frame. The top surface of the CPU die and the die frame are basically the same height (probably as a safeguard to keep you from crushing the die) and if anything pushes the CPU away from the die frame your water block or CPU heat sink will not make proper contact. It will contact the die frame instead of the CPU die.


----------



## Abaidor

MrFox said:


> I saw the Der8auer Skylake-X Die Frame was finally in stock several places. I just installed one this weekend and I am pretty happy with the results. These temps are with the water chiller turned off, so I am going to have to see if I can push my benching overclock past 5.3GHz with the chiller running.
> 
> Installation was simple. Initially temperatures were horrible. I tried reseating the CPU about a dozen times and it was insanely hot (105°C core max and 111°C package temps running Cinebench at 5.0GHz). Nothing worked. I knew there had to be some element of human error for it running hotter with a bare die. Well, after I got to studying it closer to see exactly how it was made and scrutinizing everything closer to try to figure out what I did wrong, I noticed that the old nail polish I had covering the SMDs was under the area that holds the CPU down in two places. The old nail polish was applied really thick. So, I got some acetone and polished up the CPU until it was squeaky clean and all of the old nail polish was removed. I reassembled it and then applied new nail polish so it would not be in between the CPU and die frame. Now temps are great. Too bad I didn't do that first, LOL. I wasted two applications of Conductonaut, an application of Kryonaut and Phobya Nanogrease Extreme trying to reseat the CPU and figure out why it was running so hot.
> 
> I left the adhesive covers on the circular rubber bumpers. Der8auer recommends only exposing the adhesive on one of them because they are strong and may make it difficult to remove the back plate later, but I left them all on. When I took it apart to clean up the CPU it didn't fall off of the motherboard even without the adhesives exposed.
> 
> Below are some photos with before/after temps. Temps were generated with 3 back-to-back runs before and after. I like the product. It is well made and I would buy it again. Learn from my mistake and be sure there is no nail polish (or any of the original black IHS sealant) on the CPU, as it will interfere with contact by making the top of the die shorter than the top of the die frame. The top surface of the CPU die and the die frame are basically the same height (probably as a safeguard to keep you from crushing the die) and if anything pushes the CPU away from the die frame your water block or CPU heat sink will not make proper contact. It will contact the die frame instead of the CPU die.



OH Crap! Now you are making re-thing my decision to include some Kampton tape on top of using liquid tape for insulating the small capacitors. If your nail polish caused an issue then the way I have done it might be the culprit of my ordeal......I would never think that such a thin tape could cause an issue but tolerances are really small in this case...I am so scared of touching it though!!!!

I have an image of what I have done, have a look!


----------



## MrFox

Abaidor said:


> OH Crap! Now you are making re-thing my decision to include some Kampton tape on top of using liquid tape for insulating the small capacitors. If your nail polish caused an issue then the way I have done it might be the culprit of my ordeal......I would never think that such a thin tape could cause an issue but tolerances are really small in this case...I am so scared of touching it though!!!!
> 
> I have an image of what I have done, have a look!


Yes, I never would have guessed it, but the tolerances are super small. It did not take much in my case to make the top surface of the CPU die lower than the top surface of the die frame. I was thinking about using Kapton tape as well, but if it is placed between the CPU and die frame it probably will interfere with die contact. But, once I resolved that issue the temps are awesome with bare die. I reapplied the clear nail polish after installing the die frame so the fit would not be altered.

Kapton tape is pretty awesome stuff and I use it for many things. But for the above mentioned issue it would be great used as you were intending to. You could possibly still use it in the same way by applying it over the SMDs after assembling the die frame. You would need to trim it down to be no wider than the space in the recessed area between the CPU die and the die frame. If you overlapped the top of the die frame, I think that would also cause an issue by shimming the water block or heat sink away from the die. If the top surface of the die frame was a little thinner it would eliminate this issue, but it would also likely create a risk of fracturing the CPU die by allowing too much mounting pressure. I think the way it is made now all but eliminates any risk of breaking the die from excessive pressure because the die frame bears that pressure once the CPU is compressed down into the socket.

Are you experiencing high temperatures like I was initially? If so, I would clean it all off using acetone and a soft bristled paint brush and then reassemble it naked. You can then apply your protective materials. You would also need to be certain that the liquid electrical tape you have on top of the SMDs is not taller than the die top surface. I used two coats of clear nail polish because it is thinner, easier to apply and easy to remove with acetone.


----------



## Abaidor

MrFox said:


> Yes, I never would have guessed it, but the tolerances are super small. It did not take much in my case to make the top surface of the CPU die lower than the top surface of the die frame. I was thinking about using Kapton tape as well, but if it is placed between the CPU and die frame it probably will interfere with die contact. But, once I resolved that issue the temps are awesome with bare die. I reapplied the clear nail polish after installing the die frame so the fit would not be altered.
> 
> Kapton tape is pretty awesome stuff and I use it for many things. But for the above mentioned issue it would be great used as you were intending to. You could possibly still use it in the same way by applying it over the SMDs after assembling the die frame. You would need to trim it down to be no wider than the space in the recessed area between the CPU die and the die frame. If you overlapped the top of the die frame, I think that would also cause an issue by shimming the water block or heat sink away from the die. If the top surface of the die frame was a little thinner it would eliminate this issue, but it would also likely create a risk of fracturing the CPU die by allowing too much mounting pressure. I think the way it is made now all but eliminates any risk of breaking the die from excessive pressure because the die frame bears that pressure once the CPU is compressed down into the socket.
> 
> Are you experiencing high temperatures like I was initially? If so, I would clean it all off using acetone and a soft bristled paint brush and then reassemble it naked. You can then apply your protective materials. You would also need to be certain that the liquid electrical tape you have on top of the SMDs is not taller than the die top surface. I used two coats of clear nail polish because it is thinner, easier to apply and easy to remove with acetone.


Initially it was a mess and had 4-5 cores not making proper contact. I had to reseat the CPU Block while adjusting the tightness of the frame about 30 times before I got good contact. Yet, I still have 2 cores that are spiking higher the any other core but never exceeding 83-86C and averaging at 65-70 during normal usage. That is with all cores @ 4.8GHz on a 7940X...

I am so scared to touch it again though but will do so sometime in the future for maintenance I guess..It has been running stable during all my workloads + gaming for 2-3 weeks now without any crash.

Another issue was that the CPU Die is NOT flat and the center of the die is convex. This is confirmed both by der8auer and I also did a spin test. How concave might vary from chip to chip but I guess the CPU block can compensate a bit for that apparently or else it would not work at all. I had to play a lot with the screws on the corners of both the CPU Block and the die frame to achieve proper contact. The stickers at the backplate of the frame maybe affecting this as well since they are soft and if you peel off one of them only it can also affect height by a tiny amount. 

It certainly requires patience but the potential for great cooling is unmatched which makes sense since we are talking about direct contact of the die with the CPU block.


----------



## Majentrix

Got the final part of my all-copper loop in today


----------



## Ceadderman

Majentrix said:


> Got the final part of my all-copper loop in today


Very cool. Are those pushfits? I don't know if my eyes are deceiving me or not but it looks like there are orings in those 90* fittings. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Majentrix

Ceadderman said:


> Very cool. Are those pushfits? I don't know if my eyes are deceiving me or not but it looks like there are orings in those 90* fittings. :thinking:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


They're plumbing grade crimped fittings. I've got a specialized crimping tool that permanently seals them to the tubing. I'll get everything set up in-situ, pull it out, crimp it, then put it back in and tighten the nuts up for a nice seal. Very similar to rigid plastic tubing.


----------



## Streetdragon

Little question regarding GPU waterblocks:

At the Moment i have this block:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-1080-gtx-ti-nickel

Now i wanna sli it with annother block/card:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-strix-rgb-nickel

Would the inlet outlet ports on the same level, so i can run straight pipes to run them in parallel?


----------



## VeritronX

Streetdragon said:


> Little question regarding GPU waterblocks:
> 
> At the Moment i have this block:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-1080-gtx-ti-nickel
> 
> Now i wanna sli it with annother block/card:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-strix-rgb-nickel
> 
> Would the inlet outlet ports on the same level, so i can run straight pipes to run them in parallel?


If you look at the pictures for the blocks there's a technical drawing for each that shows the dimensions, the asus strix block has the ports 19.3mm higher than the one on the reference block.


----------



## smex

Finished my build.
2 x NZXT X62 on GPU and CPU with LM.

Hope u like it.

7700K @ 5Ghz ( 1.34V - delidded, liquid metal )
Asus 1080Ti Turbo ( constant 2100mhz - liquid metal )
2 x NZXT X62 ( 280mm - liquid metal )
Asus Maximus VIII S1151
32Gb 3200 DDR4 Corsair Vengeance RGB
512GB SSD M2 Samsung Evo 970 3200 Mb/S
2000GB SSD Samsung Evo 970 500 Mb/S
Be Quiet - Dark Base 700
750W Be Quiet 80+


----------



## Streetdragon

VeritronX said:


> If you look at the pictures for the blocks there's a technical drawing for each that shows the dimensions, the asus strix block has the ports 19.3mm higher than the one on the reference block.


ohhh ok^^ didnt saw that drawing thx^^ little REP for that

Any idea how i could "fix" that problem?

Edit: ok on my asus rampage v extreme i have enough space between the 2 x16 slots, so i could use soft tube to connect them with the hight differenc


----------



## Jsunn

Majentrix said:


> They're plumbing grade crimped fittings. I've got a specialized crimping tool that permanently seals them to the tubing. I'll get everything set up in-situ, pull it out, crimp it, then put it back in and tighten the nuts up for a nice seal. Very similar to rigid plastic tubing.


Can you post a link to parts and tools? 

I'm looking to do something similar. 
Looking forward to your final build!
-J


----------



## Majentrix

Jsunn said:


> Can you post a link to parts and tools?
> 
> I'm looking to do something similar.
> Looking forward to your final build!
> -J


https://www.reece.com.au/product/to...-c148/rothenberger-4000-tool-only-18v-7701304

This is the tool I'll be using. $3500 new. Can't recommend buying it for just one job 
AFAIK you can only get this particular tool in Australia, but I'm sure there are different press-fit systems for other countries.


----------



## skupples

Streetdragon said:


> Little question regarding GPU waterblocks:
> 
> At the Moment i have this block:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-1080-gtx-ti-nickel
> 
> Now i wanna sli it with annother block/card:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-strix-rgb-nickel
> 
> I
> Would the inlet outlet ports on the same level, so i can run straight pipes to run them in parallel?


just did something like this. Make sure the ports line up 

As my 1080ti block doesn’t match up with my EKRGB block, which lead to much rigging.


----------



## black06g85

Jsunn said:


> Can you post a link to parts and tools?
> 
> I'm looking to do something similar.
> Looking forward to your final build!
> -J


I might be doing something similiar, but I work for a huge plumbing supply.
fittings for press copper we carry are mueller, nibco or viega (all pretty much the same)
but we rent the tool so I can get it for $25 for the day and get the tubing and fittings for next to nothing.

just trying to decide if I'm going to stick with the same case or not.


----------



## Destrto

Here are some shots a referesh I recently did to my loop. Replaced the mobo, lapped the cpu a bit. (AMD FX-8370). and changed from black tubing back to clear.

In the near future I'll be swapping out my fittings for these Feser F1 Racing ones I caught on sale for $0.99 each.

Even though the cpu lap isnt the prettiest, along with fresh paste, it still dropped my idle temps about 4C, down to 20-21C.


----------



## Jsunn

Majentrix said:


> https://www.reece.com.au/product/to...-c148/rothenberger-4000-tool-only-18v-7701304
> 
> This is the tool I'll be using. $3500 new. Can't recommend buying it for just one job
> AFAIK you can only get this particular tool in Australia, but I'm sure there are different press-fit systems for other countries.


LOL... oh... not sure if I want to do it that bad. 
Post more pics!
-J


----------



## BradleyW

When I set my D5 from speed 3 to 5, I can hear air bubbles entering the pump.

Loop has been bled and ran for months.

Loop order: RES, PUMP, 360, 420, CPU, repeat.

Thank you


----------



## Destrto

BradleyW said:


> When I set my D5 from speed 3 to 5, I can hear air bubbles entering the pump.
> 
> Loop has been bled and ran for months.
> 
> Loop order: RES, PUMP, 360, 420, CPU, repeat.
> 
> Thank you


Have you checked the housing? Are you seeing evidence of air entering the system?


----------



## BradleyW

Destrto said:


> Have you checked the housing? Are you seeing evidence of air entering the system?


Everything is tightly sealed and leak tested.


----------



## Destrto

BradleyW said:


> Everything is tightly sealed and leak tested.


Are you sure it's not just turbulence then?

As far as sealed and leak tested. It may not be leaking per se, but in my head i picture sort of a one way valve, where the air can enter but water does not leak.


----------



## BradleyW

Destrto said:


> Are you sure it's not just turbulence then?
> 
> As far as sealed and leak tested. It may not be leaking per se, but in my head i picture sort of a one way valve, where the air can enter but water does not leak.


I'm not sure. I just assumed it is air because I see what appears to be an air bubble entering the pump every time I hear a crunch noise. Speed 4 or lower does not cause this issue. All my fittings are tight so I'm not sure where air would enter.


----------



## skupples

funny you mention a "one way"

I've been having this issue ever since rebuilding where on restart, air seems to be getting pulled into the system via the top radiator... Which was always the top radiator. Weirdest part is that I can open my BP Bleed valve on that radiator, & nothing comes out.

note, its the top radiator in my system that feeds back into my res, so clearly water is in it.

250-300LPh atm.


----------



## BradleyW

Does it harm performance?


----------



## skupples

not that I can tell. This loop was built to handle full X79 board cooling + 3x GPUs. 2x GPUs & CPU is childs' play.

I however don't like the idea of air being pulled into the system- 

also, the res goes up an inch when turning off, as if air is stuck in the system... which I assume is actually the gap in the top radiator? 

The radiator must be damaged internally or something at this point. It's 5+ years old, and has always been in the same spot, & water used to come gushing outta the bleed valve, like it should.


----------



## Destrto

BradleyW said:


> I'm not sure. I just assumed it is air because I see what appears to be an air bubble entering the pump every time I hear a crunch noise. Speed 4 or lower does not cause this issue. All my fittings are tight so I'm not sure where air would enter.


My setup is a little different, I'm using an EK XRES DDC setup for my loop. But I had a similar issue to this recently. That's why I asked if you think it's turbulence or possibly air getting sucked in somehow. In my case, with the pump set to max, the base needed to be tightened down where the pump met the reservoir. I gave it a good tightening and never had the issue again.

I've never had a D5 unit, so I'm not sure how much will be similar or how different this will be for your setup, but it could be something to check out.


----------



## BradleyW

skupples said:


> not that I can tell. This loop was built to handle full X79 board cooling + 3x GPUs. 2x GPUs & CPU is childs' play.
> 
> I however don't like the idea of air being pulled into the system-
> 
> also, *the res goes up an inch when turning off*, as if air is stuck in the system... which I assume is actually the gap in the top radiator?
> 
> The radiator must be damaged internally or something at this point. It's 5+ years old, and has always been in the same spot, & water used to come gushing outta the bleed valve, like it should.


That is a sign on trapped air for sure. Mine doesn't do that.




Destrto said:


> My setup is a little different, I'm using an EK XRES DDC setup for my loop. But I had a similar issue to this recently. That's why I asked if you think it's turbulence or possibly air getting sucked in somehow. In my case, with the pump set to max, the base needed to be tightened down where the pump met the reservoir. I gave it a good tightening and never had the issue again.
> 
> I've never had a D5 unit, so I'm not sure how much will be similar or how different this will be for your setup, but it could be something to check out.


I will tighten the housing to see if it helps.

Edit My temps from my loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

skupples said:


> not that I can tell. This loop was built to handle full X79 board cooling + 3x GPUs. 2x GPUs & CPU is childs' play.
> 
> I however don't like the idea of air being pulled into the system-
> 
> also, the res goes up an inch when turning off, as if air is stuck in the system... which I assume is actually the gap in the top radiator?
> 
> The radiator must be damaged internally or something at this point. It's 5+ years old, and has always been in the same spot, & water used to come gushing outta the bleed valve, like it should.


I would remove the loop from the PSU and run it using another one. While it is running tip the case to see if that trapped air exits the Radiator. If it does, it should essentially tell you how much trapped air is in the loop. If of course you have another PSU laying about. Shoot even a 150w PSU would work for this. I plan to get a SFX low wattage PSU for simple offline leaktest/flushing of my loops. 

But make sure to take precautions before doing this. Everywhere you can think of to put blue towels, put more. Especially since you said that your 5+ year old Radiator has gushed. So I would definitely run the loop with the case on it's rear panel and it's a good time to inspect the Radiator top and bottom for moisture while doing this. No need to chance this anymore since it's been a few months since you mentioned having a potential leak. Honestly at the first sign of a leak I would replace it, but that's just me. If nothing else it would be a good idea to get a spare for JIC reasons. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

yeah, i remember gulping being a sign of trapped air, I'm just almost dead certain its due to this weird issue with the top radiator only running down one channel. At least, that's what I see in my head as the only explanation as to how I can open the bleed valve & not get water, all while it feeds the reservoir just fine. 

I'm gonna take another look this weekend. 

Purging an STH10 is a bit harder than most cases  

Luckily, this is the last tour for 2 of the 3 existing rads. I started the rebuild with 4, but the Monsta died, so I replaced it, and an EK died as well, however that one didn't get replaced. 

I truly miss having a bleed valve on my inverted flex bay radiator. Being able to manually fill the top radiator, all the way to a full reservoir + filling via the front rad bleed valve made filling & purging an incredibly simple & short task, as the front rad fill port allowed it + the two radiators in the bottom to fill near full, while the top radiator will fill the board section, itself, & the reservoir. 

filling without it is a major pain in the ass, even with one less lower rad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Last week I shake flushed my EK Radiators. Two SE and one PE Radiators. I had one of the SE already sitting on the shelf waiting for this new build. 

Well anyway, shake flushed the PE and all went well. The BNIB SE was another matter. When I shook it horizontally tank to tank, I was experiencing a clunking both physically and soundwise. And the old one nothing, all was well.

I dismantled the new one and found that one of the vibration dampener pads had folded back on itself. When they put the pads on the tanks during manufacturing they pre apply them before slipping the covers sideways over the tanks and then the sides go on and get screwed into place. Well I found that one of the pads had folded and adhered to itself. Effectively doubling the thickness of the pad. Which if it were on the non ported end wouldn't have been a problem. But the port directly aligned with the pad was not able to fully seat and effectively was loose in the housing causing the sensation and sound.

I carefully peeled it away from itself and adhered it properly to the tank. Slid the covers back on, put the sides back on and bolted them into place. Replaced the ports an made sure they were tight. Shook it side to side horizontally both sides and no more clunk. 

I know there are people who love to complain about EK but I like that I can disassemble my Radiators and inspect them for issues. EK Radiators are manufactured with something along the lines of a ~7mm gap(+/-) under the fan body. This is effectively a shroud that lifts the hub of the fan off the cooling surface. It's one reason why I go with them.

I am only bringing this up, because it indeed was an issue, but a fixable one that quite honestly could happen to any company in the manufacturing process. At least I saved myself return shipping to the vendor and wait time for it's replacement. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

I'm not sure I can break down these ancient EK radiators, but that's awesome!


----------



## BradleyW

Are my radiators bottlenecking me because they have a low FPI count. It's only 10! However the 360mm is 60mm thick and the 420mm is 45mm thick. It cools a 9900K. Thank you.

Edit: They are Phobya V2 all copper.


----------



## Ceadderman

BradleyW said:


> *Are my radiators bottlenecking me because they have a low FPI count. It's only 10!* However the 360mm is 60mm thick and the 420mm is 45mm thick. It cools a 9900K. Thank you.
> 
> Edit: They are Phobya V2 all copper.


No.

The low FPI has nothing to do with bottlenecking. Low FPI Rads are set with a limited amount of them to allow for a slower fan curve and allow for heat dissipation. High FPI requires a higher RPM to drive the airflow through the open vanes and allow for heat dissipation. You wouldn't get solid performance from say a 500-800rpm fan pushing air through a 20FPI Radiator. But you can get solid performance from a low FPI Radiator with fans that run 500-2200rpm on a low 10 to 15 FPI Radiator. You can also adjust the speed of the fans to meet your sound requirements. If you need the area where your system is to be quiet(skyping etc.) then you can run your fans at their minimum while still getting solid performance from whatever Radiator you are using. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## KCDC

I was hoping to get my top rad in push-pull, but only have enough room for slim-profile fans due to the motherboard being so close. Are there any that provide enough pressure that would work with HWL GTRs? My guess is no, but wanted to ask anyway. Everything in my sig is current.


----------



## Ceadderman

KCDC said:


> I was hoping to get my top rad in push-pull, but only have enough room for slim-profile fans due to the motherboard being so close. Are there any that provide enough pressure that would work with HWL GTRs? My guess is no, but wanted to ask anyway. Everything in my sig is current.


How much thickness can you cleanly run in the top of your case? What's the thickness of your Radiator? Those two things are necessary to figure out the thickness of the fans to be recommended for your needs. Anything in the 12mm thickness range, really aren't worth exploring. I would suggest simply running standard 25mm thick fans and leave it at that. 

Because of it's newer design your GTR has a shroud space between the fan mounts and the cooling surface of the radiator. There really isn't much more adding a Push/Pull setup will accomplish over a single run of fans for ROI. I wouldn't even recommend it. Completely unnecessary.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## BradleyW

Ceadderman said:


> No.
> 
> The low FPI has nothing to do with bottlenecking. Low FPI Rads are set with a limited amount of them to allow for a slower fan curve and allow for heat dissipation. High FPI requires a higher RPM to drive the airflow through the open vanes and allow for heat dissipation. You wouldn't get solid performance from say a 500-800rpm fan pushing air through a 20FPI Radiator. But you can get solid performance from a low FPI Radiator with fans that run 500-2200rpm on a low 10 to 15 FPI Radiator. You can also adjust the speed of the fans to meet your sound requirements. If you need the area where your system is to be quiet(skyping etc.) then you can run your fans at their minimum while still getting solid performance from whatever Radiator you are using.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Thank you for the info.

Any idea what this white stuff is on the solder? It scrapes off, but flushing and soaking with vinegar doesn't shift it.

Edit: I assume it is solder anyway.

Cheers.


----------



## nycgtr

Next Step cables and fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

BradleyW said:


> Thank you for the info.
> 
> Any idea what this white stuff is on the solder? It scrapes off, but flushing and soaking with vinegar doesn't shift it.
> 
> Edit: I assume it is solder anyway.
> 
> Cheers.


Actually it's called flux. You need really hot water and vinegar to flush it out. I start my shakes with a 50/50 mixture of boiling hot solution. Of course where I do my flushing at is about 40 feet away from the microwave. So by the time I get to my flush area the solution has cooled slightly. Still works well for me. But I would suggest wearing gloves that aren't of the knit variety where strings can come into contact with the vanes of the Radiator. Otherwise they could grab at and bend them out of shape, impacting performance. Next step is 25/75 vinegar/h2o solution and then as many flushes as you feel are necessary to remove any remainder of vinegar from the Radiator. I do 3 but then I will be using straight tube my pump and my Res to completely flush for about an hour or so using a 5gal HomeDepot bucket in a 2.5' squared area so I won't have to bend tube or purchase more flex tubing to finish the flush. 

So basically I will stand one SE facing the PE and using two rotary 90* fittings connect the other SE to the outlet of the PE and from the SE to the Bucket, from Bucket to Pump. About a half hour to an hour later there should be no more vinegar in the Radiators as well as clearing any other schmutz from them. Obviously the coolant will need to be filtered at the final outlet to the bucket to make sure that remaining schmutz is captured and held in check from the clean coolant being collected in the bucket. 

But yeah, that's basically what you do. Use the hottest solution possible and give yer Radiator(s) a good shaking. You should use warm to hot distilled for the entire process. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## J7SC

BradleyW said:


> Thank you for the info.
> 
> Any idea what this white stuff is on the solder? It scrapes off, but flushing and soaking with vinegar doesn't shift it.
> 
> Edit: I assume it is solder anyway.
> 
> Cheers.


 
There are several methods to remove it, but if not successful, may be try the item in the attachment


----------



## BradleyW

Brilliant, thank you all.


----------



## Questors

nycgtr said:


> Next Step cables and fans.


This is one of the absolute best looking builds I have ever seen. Period. Outstanding. 

People use the terms, "...that I have ever heard" or "...that I have ever seen" in the figurative sense often. I mean in the literal sense.


----------



## J7SC

Hello  A few months ago, I posted a couple of select early pics but now I'm finished and working on my 'Orca & Rucksack' build log....a few select pics below

2950x / X399 - 2x 2080 Ti Aorus WB - GPU water-cooling via 3x RX 360 and 2x MPC655 pumps - CPU water-cooling via 2x RX 360 and 2x MPC 655 pumps 20x 120mm rad fans


----------



## skupples

be careful with those swiftech rotaries. They get weak over time, & will form high pressure squirts from the joint. 

It took mine about 18 months to get to that point. The only rotaries I've had not fail after ~2 years are BP. They still have the same resistance years later. I've yet to have to retire a single one, even the crazy double rotary ones. 


besides that bit of caution, looks great.


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> be careful with those swiftech rotaries. They get weak over time, & will form high pressure squirts from the joint.
> 
> It took mine about 18 months to get to that point. The only rotaries I've had not fail after ~2 years are BP. They still have the same resistance years later. I've yet to have to retire a single one, even the crazy double rotary ones.
> 
> 
> besides that bit of caution, looks great.


 
Thanks for the note of caution on the rotaries for the CPU block. I had these rotaries since 2013 (though not in use for two years). I am aware of potential issues with rotaries, and indeed had a few which did develop problems some time ago. The ones I used though were pressure-tested at well-above the pressure in the system...and most importantly, I made sure that there is no uneven push / pull via the hoses on the 45 degree angle joint...that, in my past experience, was responsible for weaknesses in similar rotaries. Still, worth keeping an eye on - which isn't hard to do as it is behind glass and at eye level


----------



## Abaidor

skupples said:


> be careful with those swiftech rotaries. They get weak over time, & will form high pressure squirts from the joint.
> 
> It took mine about 18 months to get to that point. The only rotaries I've had not fail after ~2 years are BP. They still have the same resistance years later. I've yet to have to retire a single one, even the crazy double rotary ones.
> 
> 
> besides that bit of caution, looks great.


I often wonder whether all these Bitspower fittings I have bought are worth the cost over other brands, but posts like this make me insist on them every time.


----------



## Questors

skupples said:


> be careful with those swiftech rotaries. They get weak over time, & will form high pressure squirts from the joint.
> 
> It took mine about 18 months to get to that point. The only rotaries I've had not fail after ~2 years are BP. They still have the same resistance years later. I've yet to have to retire a single one, even the crazy double rotary ones.
> 
> 
> besides that bit of caution, looks great.


XSPC - Had a few leak from a second purchase a couple years after the first bunch had been used for about 3.5 year problem free. XSPC made it right through the vendor though. That experience is not typical of my overall experience with XSPC PC water cooling gear.

Bitspower - Had 5 leak over a period of about 5 years. To be fair, all but the snake rotary were in hard to see, tight spots and were being pulled slightly to one side, unrealized by me upon initial build. The leaks were small and very hard to find. It took a few weeks, a mirror on a long bendable handle, some contortionist body twisting, a nice bright LED flashlight and a large spray bottle of soapy water to locate the tiny little bubbles that burped out at a snail's pace. 

:wheee: <= is what I felt like by the time that debacle was over. 

I will still use either brand again.


----------



## J7SC

Questors said:


> XSPC - Had a few leak from a second purchase a couple years after the first bunch had been used for about 3.5 year problem free. XSPC made it right through the vendor though. That experience is not typical of my overall experience with XSPC PC water cooling gear.
> 
> Bitspower - Had 5 leak over a period of about 5 years. To be fair, all but the snake rotary were in hard to see, tight spots and were being pulled slightly to one side, unrealized by me upon initial build. The leaks were small and very hard to find. It took a few weeks, a mirror on a long bendable handle, some contortionist body twisting, a nice bright LED flashlight and a large spray bottle of soapy water to locate the tiny little bubbles that burped out at a snail's pace.
> 
> :wheee: <= is what I felt like by the time that debacle was over.
> 
> I will still use either brand again.


 
...I can empathize with that frustration - ever since I started custom w-cooling at the beginning of this decade, I noticed (somewhat rare) issues with Swiftech, Koolance (and possibly Bitspower) on fittings with a joint which swivel / rotate in some way. As stated above, IMO it came down to uneven push/pull of the tubing on the fitting...in my current build, I paid attention to 'neutral push/pull' *and these specific joints in the build above do not* (and should not) move, swivel etc as it is locked in (there are Koolance quick-disconnects on that loop for maintenance etc). However, if I ever notice the slightest leak, I'll apply SealAll to the joint - I fixed high-pressure fuel lines for cars with that stuff decades back...


----------



## skupples

i tried using that stuff to fix the design flaw in the 3x DDC block from... Koolance? 

didn't work. The water still found a path out after I roughed up the acrylic, applied a ton, n let cure for 24 hours. 

still dude's correct. It's about proper position. The resistance of BP fittings give you more margin of error, whereas the cheaper ones with less resistance/tolerance require more precision to not push them outta wack, to the point of leaking.


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> i tried using that stuff to fix the design flaw in the 3x DDC block from... Koolance?
> 
> didn't work. The water still found a path out after I roughed up the acrylic, applied a ton, n let cure for 24 hours.
> 
> still dude's correct. It's about proper position. The resistance of BP fittings give you more margin of error, whereas the cheaper ones with less resistance/tolerance require more precision to not push them outta wack, to the point of leaking.


 
...probably going 'off topic' a bit, but I have amassed way too much knowledge about SealAll than I should have (read: I can be a klutz when impatient). SealALL works best when: 

a.) it has s.th. cleaned and a bit roughed up to grip and is applied in several 'touch-dry' layers and
b.) can be reinforced between layers, i.e. with duct tape ! 
c.) if the problem area can be completely ('360 degrees') covered, like a tube, a block, a pipe or fitting (as is discussed here), I'm not boasting when I say that I must be at 100 out of 100 (or so...  )


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Hello all, I’m rebuilding my loop. I’m working out of a caselabs S3, and just bought a black ice nemesis GTX 360 and GTR 240. 

I need advice on fans. I’m looking at the noctua NF-F12 but I noticed that NF-P12 redux 1700s are about $10 cheaper, even after buying the anti vibration mounts. 

Does anyone have experience with both of these? Is there a remarkable difference in noise and performance that would warrant an additional $10 per fan? 

Also given that these are both Static pressure optimized fans, do you see a huge impact from push pull vs just push or pull? 

Thanks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

J7SC said:


> skupples said:
> 
> 
> 
> i tried using that stuff to fix the design flaw in the 3x DDC block from... Koolance?
> 
> didn't work. The water still found a path out after I roughed up the acrylic, applied a ton, n let cure for 24 hours.
> 
> still dude's correct. It's about proper position. The resistance of BP fittings give you more margin of error, whereas the cheaper ones with less resistance/tolerance require more precision to not push them outta wack, to the point of leaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...probably going 'off topic' a bit, but I have amassed way too much knowledge about SealAll than I should have (read: I can be a klutz when impatient). SealALL works best when:
> 
> a.) it has s.th. cleaned and a bit roughed up to grip and is applied in several 'touch-dry' layers and
> b.) can be reinforced between layers, i.e. with duct tape ! /forum/images/smilies/whistle.gif
> c.) if the problem area can be completely ('360 degrees') covered, like a tube, a block, a pipe or fitting (as is discussed here), I'm not boasting when I say that I must be at 100 out of 100 (or so... /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif )
Click to expand...

Lol I tried it all, aside from duct tape. 

That glued in plastic insert is just highly prone to failure. It’s why most 3x DDC systems are now 2x DDC systems wth an extra DDC in the drawer.

I think the only solution woulda been recreating the piece and properly re-acrylic glueing it in.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> i tried using that stuff to fix the design flaw in the 3x DDC block from... Koolance?
> 
> 
> 
> didn't work. The water still found a path out after I roughed up the acrylic, applied a ton, n let cure for 24 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> still dude's correct. It's about proper position. The resistance of BP fittings give you more margin of error, whereas the cheaper ones with less resistance/tolerance require more precision to not push them outta wack, to the point of leaking.




I’m noticing with my EK ones they are already starting to spread apart and they aren’t even a month old. The worst part is it’s not even being pulled apart, it’s just separating on its own. 
I’ll be keeping a close eye on them in the future as they already look ready to leak. 
I’ll be eliminating as many as I can but I clearly see why you do not ever cheap out on rotaries.


----------



## TeslaHUN

I have a Phanteks P600s case with 2x Phanteks 140SP fan on min rpm on front intake , and one 140SP on back as exhaust . CPU([email protected],1) + VGA(1080TI @1987mhz) on water , radiator is external Mo-Ra3 420 with 9x Noctua NF A14pwm fan (300 rpm).

I also have a 420*45mm Alphacool rad somewhere collecting dust  Shall i add that 420 rad in front of my P600s case ,or i wont get any benefit from it ? Or even make things worse ? ( I think 140sp fans on low rpm dont have the power to pull air through/flow across dustfilter+45mm thick rad ,trapping the heat inside the case )


----------



## Questors

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Hello all, I’m rebuilding my loop. I’m working out of a caselabs S3, and just bought a black ice nemesis GTX 360 and GTR 240.
> 
> I need advice on fans. I’m looking at the noctua NF-F12 but I noticed that NF-P12 redux 1700s are about $10 cheaper, even after buying the anti vibration mounts.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with both of these? Is there a remarkable difference in noise and performance that would warrant an additional $10 per fan?
> 
> Also given that these are both Static pressure optimized fans, do you see a huge impact from push pull vs just push or pull?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Fans - The age old wonder of PC cooling. Noctua fans are great fans and top notch quality regardless of version. There are other fans out there that are arguably as good.

I have been running Gentle Typhoons for years. I have had ONE go bad in that time. It still works, but it's wobbly and the outer edge of the blades strike the face of radiator as it wobbles. It's now a case fan pushing air in until it gives out forever. 

Before the links to vendors and maker sites, here is some information you may want to look at. It covers push vs push/pull and other curiosity about fans and water cooling/radiators.

Martins Liquid Lab

More recent: Extreme Rigs, Choose - Reviews > Radiators > any radiator. There are extensive charts and comparisons to do with tested radiator.

Places to get fans:
ModMyMods GTs

Cooler Guys GTs 3 Pin & PWM

PPCS Darkside GTs 3 Pin & PWM

You can't forget EKWBs entry into radiator purposed fans, the Vardar. 
Mainframe Customs Vardar 120mm - 140mm model also available. Also can be purchased at PPCS.

Noiseblocker:
Noiseblocker Eloop

Possibly the best ball bearing low priced PWM fan you can put on a radiator is the Akasa Piranha 120 PWM fans. 
PPCS Piranha PWM

Corsair appears to have a nice line of fans now too. 

I have to say though, when it comes down to it, my first choice is Gentle Typhoon, second choice is Vardar and third choice is Piranha.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Questors said:


> Fans - The age old wonder of PC cooling. Noctua fans are great fans and top notch quality regardless of version. There are other fans out there that are arguably as good.
> 
> 
> 
> I have been running Gentle Typhoons for years. I have had ONE go bad in that time. It still works, but it's wobbly and the outer edge of the blades strike the face of radiator as it wobbles. It's now a case fan pushing air in until it gives out forever.
> 
> 
> 
> Before the links to vendors and maker sites, here is some information you may want to look at. It covers push vs push/pull and other curiosity about fans and water cooling/radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> Martins Liquid Lab
> 
> 
> 
> More recent: Extreme Rigs, Choose - Reviews > Radiators > any radiator. There are extensive charts and comparisons to do with tested radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> Places to get fans:
> 
> ModMyMods GTs
> 
> 
> 
> Cooler Guys GTs 3 Pin & PWM
> 
> 
> 
> PPCS Darkside GTs 3 Pin & PWM
> 
> 
> 
> You can't forget EKWBs entry into radiator purposed fans, the Vardar.
> 
> Mainframe Customs Vardar 120mm - 140mm model also available. Also can be purchased at PPCS.
> 
> 
> 
> Noiseblocker:
> 
> Noiseblocker Eloop
> 
> 
> 
> Possibly the best ball bearing low priced PWM fan you can put on a radiator is the Akasa Piranha 120 PWM fans.
> 
> PPCS Piranha PWM
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair appears to have a nice line of fans now too.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say though, when it comes down to it, my first choice is Gentle Typhoon, second choice is Vardar and third choice is Piranha.




Thanks. That’s very helpful. I’ve been looking on extreme rigs for reviews but I think a few of Martin liquid labs links are down. 

My first concern isn’t necessarily the amount of static pressure or rpm because I’m using black ice gtx and gtr rads and they don’t seem overly obstructive in their fpi. I am concerned about noise though and noctua seems to be the quietest. If that’s incorrect please let me know. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Thanks. That’s very helpful. I’ve been looking on extreme rigs for reviews but I think a few of Martin liquid labs links are down.
> 
> My first concern isn’t necessarily the amount of static pressure or rpm because I’m using black ice gtx and gtr rads and they don’t seem overly obstructive in their fpi. I am concerned about noise though and noctua seems to be the quietest. If that’s incorrect please let me know.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Noctua likely are the quietest but also among the most expensive.
You want more static pressure compared to CFM so if you want to go with Noctua just pick the higher pressure ones over the CFM ones.


----------



## Ceadderman

I went with Vardar ER 120 fans. I have six 500-2200rpm standards and three 500-2200 RGB fans. As I am currently running atop my BC1 open bench, I only have one of the RGB units hanging off the 212 EVO amd you can't even hear it @1000rpm. It's so quiet that my display card tester simply shouts it down. Of course it's an old Radeon 5770 HD Reference card. The little hamster wheel is running @54% on a 875x1195 overclock. I should probably only ramp it up that high during my gaming sessions but it's a Lifetime card. I figure if it dies on me I will try dropping in the RX 480 after replacing the block with the Stock cooler and send the 5770 in for RMA. Of course I have a couple of 6870s on hand that if I fill them with water and put a fan over the heatsinks, they would work fine too. But yeah.

Hopefully tomorrow is sunny. So I can finish with a pump flushing of the three 360s and preparing for my new case to arrive. Still waiting to see whether or not I will go with the ROG O11 or if I want to go with Dynamic anyway. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

AP15s till bust, then I'm going truly silent builds... luckily I've got at least 5-10 more years of life in my 40 stack.


----------



## Questors

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Thanks. That’s very helpful. I’ve been looking on extreme rigs for reviews but I think a few of Martin liquid labs links are down.
> 
> My first concern isn’t necessarily the amount of static pressure or rpm because I’m using black ice gtx and gtr rads and they don’t seem overly obstructive in their fpi. I am concerned about noise though and noctua seems to be the quietest. If that’s incorrect please let me know.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Strictly answering this: *"I am concerned about noise though and noctua seems to be the quietest. If that’s incorrect please let me know."* 

I can only tell you what my ears hear. To me, eLoops and Piranhas are louder at the same speed than GTs, Vardar and Noctua. Noctuas are quieter than Vardar. An anechoic chamber is the only environment that can deliver a definitive answer as to absolute sound produced by any fan. Noctuas and GTs have a gentle whoosh to my ears at comparable speeds, although the Noctua gets the edge for lower sound overall to my ears. 

Now my perspective on buying: The difference isn't enough for me to jump out and always pay the extra money for the Noctua brand. They are all great quality fans and they all do a solid job on radiators or as case fans in terms of performance and keeping noise down. If after reading articles, reviews and chatting around, like here, you are leaning toward Noctua, buy them. Whether the beige, redux or industrial, no matter, you most likely won't be disappointed. 

Keep in mind if you ramp up the speed over 1800 RPM, they will make noise and you will hear it.

Partially off-topic - I just bought four Vardar 120 ER PWM fans for an upcoming SFF utilizing two Hardware Labs 240 GTS rads. I can't wait! Unfortunately it's a multi-month build since I am waiting to see what Ryzen 3rd gen and Navi turn out to be.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Questors said:


> Strictly answering this: *"I am concerned about noise though and noctua seems to be the quietest. If that’s incorrect please let me know."*
> 
> 
> 
> I can only tell you what my ears hear. To me, eLoops and Piranhas are louder at the same speed than GTs, Vardar and Noctua. Noctuas are quieter than Vardar. An anechoic chamber is the only environment that can deliver a definitive answer as to absolute sound produced by any fan. Noctuas and GTs have a gentle whoosh to my ears at comparable speeds, although the Noctua gets the edge for lower sound overall to my ears.
> 
> 
> 
> Now my perspective on buying: The difference isn't enough for me to jump out and always pay the extra money for the Noctua brand. They are all great quality fans and they all do a solid job on radiators or as case fans in terms of performance and keeping noise down. If after reading articles, reviews and chatting around, like here, you are leaning toward Noctua, buy them. Whether the beige, redux or industrial, no matter, you most likely won't be disappointed.
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind if you ramp up the speed over 1800 RPM, they will make noise and you will hear it.




That’s correct. And I felt like the grey redux was the best bargain. It also has the same warranty as the nf12...and at $15-16 a fan after buying the bumpers, it’s around the same price as the corsairs SP120 I’m used to. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

For those who have multiple d5 pumps in series- did you add the extra ones because of flow restriction, or for redundancy? I thought I would get a much larger pressure drop with my loop but I didn’t and I already got a dual d5 top...

Is it possible to run both on low, and simulate the effect of one pump on medium or high? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

Pinnacle Fit said:


> For those who have multiple d5 pumps in series- did you add the extra ones because of flow restriction, or for redundancy? I thought I would get a much larger pressure drop with my loop but I didn’t and I already got a dual d5 top...
> 
> Is it possible to run both on low, and simulate the effect of one pump on medium or high?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I got a second Mcp35x2 just to run them both at 30% and dead silent. Run them as slow as you need and maintain 1GPM


----------



## skupples

dual pumps is 50% redundancy 50% being able to run them at lower speeds for = to performance. 


As long as you're north of like 120lph, you're golden.

I'm looking forward to splitting my loop & adding a second one. cpu & memory in one loop, gpus & board in the other. perfecto!


----------



## Shawnb99

Just noticed the void if removed warranty stickers on my Mcp35x2 has fallen off on its own and the second one is coming loose as well. Seems to be poor job sticking.
Seems my warranty is void on this pair, good thing these things tend to last for years. 










The new one looks to be a better job.
Will be keeping an eye on this


----------



## skupples

yep, the heat makes them turn to dust. 

My one unit is at 6+ years 24/7 up time.

I removed mine after a year though, to upgrade to metal cans.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Shawnb99 said:


> Just noticed the void if removed warranty stickers on my Mcp35x2 has fallen off on its own and the second one is coming loose as well. Seems to be poor job sticking.
> Seems my warranty is void on this pair, good thing these things tend to last for years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new one looks to be a better job.
> Will be keeping an eye on this




I ended up buying this: uniquegoods 6V 12V 24V 28V 3A 80W DC Motor Speed Controller (PWM) Speed Adjustable Reversible Switch 1203BB dc motor driver reversing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RYRXFW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P2ZVCbA0MBCC1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

I’m not to worried these things last years plus it’ll be at the slowest speeds so should be fine.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> I’m not to worried these things last years plus it’ll be at the slowest speeds so should be fine.




this - I'd also stick to using software control for PWM.


----------



## Blze001

skupples said:


> dual pumps is 50% redundancy 50% being able to run them at lower speeds for = to performance.
> 
> I'm looking forward to splitting my loop & adding a second one. cpu & memory in one loop, gpus & board in the other. perfecto!


I'd like to go the dual loop route someday, but that'd require getting a bigger case. And if I got a bigger case, I'd want to get a truly endgame case, but there aren't many candidates out there since CaseLabs went to the great casemaker in the sky.

Plus they didn't quite have the layout I'd want ideally, either.


----------



## skupples

i paid 50% of original cost for my CL, used, while in production years and years ago.

Now, post CL - cases are going for around 50%-75%... 

I still plan to use them for my SFF build. A few models (just like before going out of business) cost more than others, but the non-uniques I want all run around 50% on ebay at the moment. It's the little in-model variations that're going for a pretty penny, n those cases have always resold @ premium.

Better off buying one now, then 5-10 years from now, when they're ACTUALLY fetching a discontinued relic item premium of above retail.


----------



## badtaylorx

Shawnb99 said:


> I got a second Mcp35x2 just to run them both at 30% and dead silent. Run them as slow as you need and maintain 1GPM




I second this. great way to go. I am, however, considering picking up an Alphacool solid brass dual ddc top to further dampen vibrations. 

https://www.alphacool.com/shop/pump...eisdecke-d5-dual-brass-top-deep-black?c=20557


----------



## skupples

ohhh that's nice... too bad I don't trust alphacool worth a damn.

Their hardware is always the first to fail, so I've quit buying it. however... Not sure how a giant chunk of brass could fail, unless a rotary, or radiator.

I don't think that top existed 6 years ago when I got my MCP35x2, the only other block around then was the triple, n it's garbage.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I still have my s5 but at this point, I wouldn’t recommend buying one. Their modularity was a major selling point, and since they’re not making any more parts, if something breaks, it’s hard to find replacements. 

I will say, that this is a great time for a fabricator to start making aftermarket parts for those who have CL. They’d make a killing. 

I’ve heard good things about the Lian li O11


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

skupples said:


> ohhh that's nice... too bad I don't trust alphacool worth a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> Their hardware is always the first to fail, so I've quit buying it. however... Not sure how a giant chunk of brass could fail, unless a rotary, or radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think that top existed 6 years ago when I got my MCP35x2, the only other block around then was the triple, n it's garbage.




This! I will never buy alphacool ever again. I bought a bunch of their 90 degree rotary fittings and they sprung so many leaks...their radiators would be ok if they had a higher fpi. 

This weekend I redid my loop and the elbows sprung a leak and almost shot a jet of water at my gpu... I’m throwing them in the trash. I keep telling myself this every time, and yet I always rationalize and end up keeping them. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Their radiators always seem to retain a bunch of air too. When I redid my loop, I used black ice 240 + 360, and it was just as complicated of a loop, and yet I had very little flow restriction...before that I had 4x280 alphacool rads and it was ridiculously restricted. There were persistent air pockets that wouldn’t resolve themselves. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

yeah, I had to have my 60mm vertically mounted in the front of my STH10 so I could use the valves to bleed the air, otherwise it was a crap shoot.

also - removing it + the leaky ancient EK radiator increased my temps by basically nil. Not a huge shocker really, the original loop was built to cool 3x GK110 titans, 3930k, 64gb or memory, & mobo. 


The EK radiator sprung an unknown leak somewhere inside the radiator after 4-5 years. 

The Alphacool radiator formed a leak at one of the plugs after 2 years.

I'm excited for the day that the rest of my radiators fail so I can finally upgrade to some epic black ice tier units, then I can use half of my 40+ AP15s in a different build


----------



## Ceadderman

Shawnb99 said:


> Just noticed the void if removed warranty stickers on my Mcp35x2 has fallen off on its own and the second one is coming loose as well. Seems to be poor job sticking.
> Seems my warranty is void on this pair, good thing these things tend to last for years.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new one looks to be a better job.
> Will be keeping an eye on this


If your pump unit is still within warranty period, you can still get support. Most if not all States signed "Right to Repair" into law. So as long as you have your receipt, the product company has to honor the warranty. UNLESS...

pretty sure a Kinder could figure the last bit out on their own, but...

...unless physically altered or damaged. Then it's time to worry about warranty stickers.  lol

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## IT Diva

Pinnacle Fit said:


> I ended up buying this: uniquegoods 6V 12V 24V 28V 3A 80W DC Motor Speed Controller (PWM) Speed Adjustable Reversible Switch 1203BB dc motor driver reversing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RYRXFW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P2ZVCbA0MBCC1
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





And you bought that Why???


----------



## skupples

IT Diva said:


> And you bought that Why???


cuz knobs are fun i suppose...

Admit it, you'd fashion some fancy chrome knobs on it.


----------



## IT Diva

skupples said:


> cuz knobs are fun i suppose...
> 
> Admit it, you'd fashion some fancy chrome knobs on it.





Naaaahhhh,


I'd actually just go build something actually useful . . .


----------



## skupples

i did leave off building it yourself  you're right.

beautiful work as always.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

IT Diva said:


> And you bought that Why???




Tbh I have a d5 Vario and it’s really difficult to reach back there and mess with the setting...so I need a way to regulate it without reaching back there. 

And I got it set up. It works. I’m Testing now to make sure my house doesn’t burn down. 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## IT Diva

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Tbh I have a d5 Vario and it’s really difficult to reach back there and mess with the setting...so I need a way to regulate it without reaching back there.
> 
> And I got it set up. It works. I’m Testing now to make sure my house doesn’t burn down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 



That'll probably work out OK.


The D5 has a fairly sizeable electrolytic cap on the power feed, so it's going to integrate the pulses and act more like voltage control electrically than actual PWM, but as long as it works, is what counts.


A number of folks used high power variable voltage fan controllers to vary the speed of the Vario D5 with the red adjuster set at 5, so the interesting thing is going to be to see how much range of control you can effect.


Been a bunch of years, but my best recollection is that you could slow the D5 down to about 7.5V, but it wouldn't start with less than about 9V, and the usable RPM range was somewhat less than you could slow it down to with the red adjuster set at 1 to 2.




I did try a similar idea with a pair of D5 Strongs on a PWM controlled 24v supply, and while the D5S has a top rpm of about 6100 with a 24V supply, I could never get it to run reliably below about 3800-4100 rpm


Keep us posted on what kind of speed range you can get, and what minimum speed setting you can get it to reliably start at on power up.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

IT Diva said:


> That'll probably work out OK.
> 
> 
> The D5 has a fairly sizeable electrolytic cap on the power feed, so it's going to integrate the pulses and act more like voltage control electrically than actual PWM, but as long as it works, is what counts.
> 
> 
> A number of folks used high power variable voltage fan controllers to vary the speed of the Vario D5 with the red adjuster set at 5, so the interesting thing is going to be to see how much range of control you can effect.
> 
> 
> Been a bunch of years, but my best recollection is that you could slow the D5 down to about 7.5V, but it wouldn't start with less than about 9V, and the usable RPM range was somewhat less than you could slow it down to with the red adjuster set at 1 to 2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did try a similar idea with a pair of D5 Strongs on a PWM controlled 24v supply, and while the D5S has a top rpm of about 6100 with a 24V supply, I could never get it to run reliably below about 3800-4100 rpm
> 
> 
> Keep us posted on what kind of speed range you can get, and what minimum speed setting you can get it to reliably start at on power up.




I was able to control it quite a bit. I had it connected to an external psu and it was working fine. I got a decent range. Yes I had to turn it about halfway (6-8v I suppose) before I saw any action, but I was able to get the full speed at 5. I’ll try connecting my multimeter to see exactly what voltage I’m getting out in a bit. 

I need to get a better case for this thing because I used double sided tape to mount it in my case and connected it to my internal psu...and it shorted when I moved the case. I guess there was some contact with metal...it came back online in a few min but I had this sort of thing happen before too. I’m wondering what it could be...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

IT Diva said:


> That'll probably work out OK.
> 
> 
> The D5 has a fairly sizeable electrolytic cap on the power feed, so it's going to integrate the pulses and act more like voltage control electrically than actual PWM, but as long as it works, is what counts.
> 
> 
> A number of folks used high power variable voltage fan controllers to vary the speed of the Vario D5 with the red adjuster set at 5, so the interesting thing is going to be to see how much range of control you can effect.
> 
> 
> Been a bunch of years, but my best recollection is that you could slow the D5 down to about 7.5V, but it wouldn't start with less than about 9V, and the usable RPM range was somewhat less than you could slow it down to with the red adjuster set at 1 to 2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did try a similar idea with a pair of D5 Strongs on a PWM controlled 24v supply, and while the D5S has a top rpm of about 6100 with a 24V supply, I could never get it to run reliably below about 3800-4100 rpm
> 
> 
> Keep us posted on what kind of speed range you can get, and what minimum speed setting you can get it to reliably start at on power up.




If you connect a 75W rated potentiometer to a device drawing 24W from a PSU rated at 750W max, you shouldn’t have issues right? 
Trying to eliminate sources of error. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## IT Diva

Pinnacle Fit said:


> If you connect a 75W rated potentiometer to a device drawing 24W from a PSU rated at 750W max, you shouldn’t have issues right?
> Trying to eliminate sources of error.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Where did a potentiometer come into this?


Are you looking to put it in series with the pump to reduce the voltage going to the pump?


You size a potentiometer by the resistance you need to do what you want to accomplish with it, and then specify a power rating, (W) based on the worst case power drop across the potentiometer.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

IT Diva said:


> Where did a potentiometer come into this?
> 
> 
> Are you looking to put it in series with the pump to reduce the voltage going to the pump?
> 
> 
> You size a potentiometer by the resistance you need to do what you want to accomplish with it, and then specify a power rating, (W) based on the worst case power drop across the potentiometer.


A voltage regulator is a potentiometer, right? 

Yes. I have it set up so Power goes into the potentiometer from the psu and out to the pump to reduce the voltage going to the pump. 

Power drop worst case is 24 watts so I guess my equation is (P=V^2/R) = 24W /144V = 0.166kOhm? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ProfeZZor X

About to embark on another water cooling journey soon. Just waiting for more components to arrive.


----------



## skupples

I wanna see BP make a dual pump solution for that new system.


----------



## Ceadderman

ProfeZZor X said:


> About to embark on another water cooling journey soon. Just waiting for more components to arrive.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Holy OMERFNL that is a huge pic! 

Not a fan of MSi boards( Overclock Speed Dial specifically) but that Digital Display along the 24 pin is a nice touch. Nice Distro plate though. Is that a Singularity special? :mellowsmi

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## khemist

Ceadderman said:


> Holy OMERFNL that is a huge pic!
> 
> Not a fan of MSi boards( Overclock Speed Dial specifically) but that Digital Display along the 24 pin is a nice touch. Nice Distro plate though. Is that a Singularity special? :mellowsmi
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


It comes with the spectre case, looks sweet.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Ceadderman said:


> Holy OMERFNL that is a huge pic!
> 
> 
> 
> Not a fan of MSi boards( Overclock Speed Dial specifically) but that Digital Display along the 24 pin is a nice touch. Nice Distro plate though. Is that a Singularity special? :mellowsmi
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:




I think bitspower makes it specifically for the LianLi o11 but you can also buy it separately. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

BP & the byksky clone company make em for certain cases/boards so that everything lines up perfectly for nice ez runs. (The acrylic thing... I forget it’s name)


----------



## Questors

*It's a start*

The beginning of my first SFF custom water cooled PC build using the Louqe Ghost S1 Mk II.

It will be a multi-month build due to travel, some surgery and I want to see how 3rd gen Ryzen and Navi turn out.

I will also be highlighting some of the good and the bad about the Ghost and addons. So far I very much like the main chassis. It looks great, is solid as a brick and the fit and finish is very good. No regret with tossing my money out there on this Kickstarter.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Might want to return unopened the ek fans 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1724542-ek-vardar-120er-evo-start-up-behavior.html


----------



## skupples

i'm hoping kickstarter will give birth to a new caselabs tier company.


----------



## Questors

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Might want to return unopened the ek fans
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1724542-ek-vardar-120er-evo-start-up-behavior.html



Over the years, I have had various fans, both 3 pin (on a controller) and 4 pin (PWM) ramp up to full speed at boot, including Noctuas on the NH-D14 with no negative effect. The linked thread is anecdotal.


----------



## skupples

yeah idk, that dude's "issue" would require me inspecting my own unit's functionality, which I'm too lazy to do cuz it powers my bajillion fans n pumps n stuff just fine... It probably does ramp on boot, cuz my fans are pinged @ 100% 99% of the time, and I actually like the hum of AP15s.

also - Aquaero units have built in delays if I remember correctly, been a while since I've poked around in aquasuite.


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe that it's normal for the fans to ramp to 100% during POST procedure and normalize prior to desktop in every Windows build. I had my CIVFormula loop on a Sunbeam RheoSmart 3 Channel and it did it there too as well as when I ran my H50 and when I ran my Hyper 212+. 

Only time I have an issue is when I see my fan simply stop spinning during operation. 

I have recently had that happen but I looked at my CPU temp and 28*c kind of explained the momentary pause in operation. I have 9 of the ER 120s, so I will be checking them all out on my XSPC PWM hub to make certain they're in working order. Build is on a pause til I get the exact Case worked out. I'm down to the 011 Dynamic or the ROG O11v2. So most of my ERs are still neatly sealed up in their boxes waiting for use. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## CptSpig

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Might want to return unopened the ek fans
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1724542-ek-vardar-120er-evo-start-up-behavior.html


? Love the EK fans they work great. very quite and easy to control. The people in that thread have other issues and are blaming the fans.


----------



## skupples

Ceadderman said:


> I believe that it's normal for the fans to ramp to 100% during POST procedure and normalize prior to desktop in every Windows build. I had my CIVFormula loop on a Sunbeam RheoSmart 3 Channel and it did it there too as well as when I ran my H50 and when I ran my Hyper 212+.
> 
> Only time I have an issue is when I see my fan simply stop spinning during operation.
> 
> I have recently had that happen but I looked at my CPU temp and 28*c kind of explained the momentary pause in operation. I have 9 of the ER 120s, so I will be checking them all out on my XSPC PWM hub to make certain they're in working order. Build is on a pause til I get the exact Case worked out. I'm down to the 011 Dynamic or the ROG O11v2. So most of my ERs are still neatly sealed up in their boxes waiting for use.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


yeah that was my thought, I couldn't think of a single system of mine, no matter mobo power, analog head unit, or digital head unit, they've always ramped. I've however never tried to combat it as it's system SOP.

something about ramping to 100% during boot for system health check, or something.


----------



## Questors

skupples said:


> i'm hoping kickstarter will give birth to a new caselabs tier company.


I would like to see the original make a comeback. I know that is a pipe dream.


----------



## Ceadderman

Questors said:


> I would like to see the original make a comeback. I know that is a pipe dream.


Would like to see that, but Streacom would be my go to choice for filling the void left by CaseLabs.

Streacom has a minimum of four very nicely designed and manufactured SFF platforms and their BC1 Open Bench is a really well designed product. I have one and while there are some minor niggling issues, it's sturdy and well built as well. Because my build is tied to it for the forseeable, I finally broke down and cable managed it with nothing but a couple of ROG Velcro strips and zip ties. Now I only have SATA cables unsorted but those are minor irritations and will be dealt with relatively soon. Although I have one HDD and three SSD hanging off it. I actually stuffed a pair of the SSD between the PSU and the MB tray and they easily fit the space without poking up into the CPU cutout. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Questors

Ceadderman said:


> Would like to see that, but Streacom would be my go to choice for filling the void left by CaseLabs.
> 
> Streacom has a minimum of four very nicely designed and manufactured SFF platforms and their BC1 Open Bench is a really well designed product. I have one and while there are some minor niggling issues, it's sturdy and well built as well. Because my build is tied to it for the forseeable, I finally broke down and cable managed it with nothing but a couple of ROG Velcro strips and zip ties. Now I only have SATA cables unsorted but those are minor irritations and will be dealt with relatively soon. Although I have one HDD and three SSD hanging off it. I actually stuffed a pair of the SSD between the PSU and the MB tray and they easily fit the space without poking up into the CPU cutout. :thumb:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I have looked at and considered Streacom more than once. They do appear to make some great cases. I have read positive comments made by people over at smallformfactor.net forums. First found them while searching the Internet and was impressed by what I saw. I chose to go with the Ghost because years ago, I thought about building a PC with this type of design. Not pursuing creating the design has bothered me ever since I saw the Dan Case. The Ghost also got my attention as I like the Mountain Mods and CaseLabs pedestal idea.

The Ghost is still pretty small even with two large size tophats installed.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

skupples said:


> i'm hoping kickstarter will give birth to a new caselabs tier company.




One company did it with acrylic (Parvum)...
I could see a company using a thermomolded plastic like Kydex using multiple sheets layered together to make a case. I believe it’s far easier to cut and mold than acrylic. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BradleyW

..


----------



## R99photography

BradleyW said:


> ..



Hello , what case is that? It looks like a TT x71.
What is the thickness of your top mounted radiator?



Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## Alastair

Guys I want to buy San Ace 9S1212F4011's for my 360mm rad. Can the blades bbe removed for painting?


----------



## Ceadderman

R99photography said:


> Hello , what case is that? It looks like a TT x71.
> What is the thickness of your top mounted radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk


Sorry about double post. :doh:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

R99photography said:


> Hello , what case is that? It looks like a TT x71.
> What is the thickness of your top mounted radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk


looks like that is a 60mm thick Radiator.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## R99photography

Ceadderman said:


> looks like that is a 60mm thick Radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:



Yes, it may be. I asked that because I’d like to understand the clearance within the TT X71 (if it is confirmed to be).
At the top, a 60mm thick radiator looks like a little bit close the the motherboard.




Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## BradleyW

Yeah 60mm I think. And it's push pull. Rad is offset to the MB so clearance is OK. And it's X71 core.


----------



## Ceadderman

R99photography said:


> Yes, it may be. I asked that because I’d like to understand the clearance within the TT X71 (if it is confirmed to be).
> At the top, a 60mm thick radiator looks like a little bit close the the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk


You're looking at 110mm of total clearance between the top and the Motherboard. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Majentrix

Is it okay to use a check valve AKA a non-return valve AKA a valve that stops water from flowing backwards in a loop? I've got this idea that it'll make filling and emptying my planned loop easier, but I've never heard of anyone using one before in theirs.


----------



## looniam

Majentrix said:


> Is it okay to use a check valve AKA a non-return valve AKA a valve that stops water from flowing backwards in a loop? I've got this idea that it'll make filling and emptying my planned loop easier, but I've never heard of anyone using one before in theirs.


just use a ballcock valve. no sense adding restriction, _ball vs check_, if it only serves a purpose when draining.



wow! two minutes to wait to edit this, really OCN?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Just got done...finally! 
















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Questors

Two designs for scratch-built reservoir for a SFX build currently underway. I am considering putting a Bitspower anti-cycle fitting on the out-bound side, but I do know this can be resolved by making baffles (for lack of a better term).

Trying to decide which design to go with. Why the difference? This will be a small reservoir (105mm W x 46mm D x 87mm H), so on one sketch I extended the bottom down further as there is space in front of the radiator tank for more capacity. The rectangular design will sit in a small void atop the radiator tank and forward of the fans. Each design allows me to place some small rubber pads about the area to keep the reservoir from resting directly on the rad or touching the side panels of the Louqe Ghost S1 Mk II tophat.

Thoughts? Ideas? Opinions?


----------



## Ceadderman

Questors said:


> Two designs for scratch-built reservoir for a SFX build currently underway. I am considering putting a Bitspower anti-cycle fitting on the out-bound side, but I do know this can be resolved by making baffles (for lack of a better term).
> 
> Trying to decide which design to go with. Why the difference? This will be a small reservoir (105mm W x 46mm D x 87mm H), so on one sketch I extended the bottom down further as there is space in front of the radiator tank for more capacity. The rectangular design will sit in a small void atop the radiator tank and forward of the fans. Each design allows me to place some small rubber pads about the area to keep the reservoir from resting directly on the rad or touching the side panels of the Louqe Ghost S1 Mk II tophat.
> 
> Thoughts? Ideas? Opinions?


For simplicity's sake I would go with the 2nd design. 2 fittings makes it a more simple design. Even though the top one splits the flow it's not a simple design. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

not sure the purpose of the internal wall, if its stability, just use slightly thicker exterior walls to knock that theory.

cube reservoirs have issues with what i'd call "gulping" pulling so much damn water that a funnel forms, pulling air into the pump. This is actually why I switched to a tube reservoir. A perfect example of this shortcoming is the Maelstrom, even with the single DDC on a lower power, the reservoir would still gulp thru the included sponge wafer that's supposed to prevent the issue.


----------



## Questors

Ceadderman said:


> For simplicity's sake I would go with the 2nd design. 2 fittings makes it a more simple design. Even though the top one splits the flow it's not a simple design. :thumb:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Agreed for sure. I have also considered making a rectangle shape but with a bottom plate that slopes slightly from one end to the other and adding some baffles to prevent simple downward flow into a vortex at the outlet to the pump. I am possibly overthinking the entire idea.



skupples said:


> not sure the purpose of the internal wall, if its stability, just use slightly thicker exterior walls to knock that theory.
> 
> cube reservoirs have issues with what i'd call "gulping" pulling so much damn water that a funnel forms, pulling air into the pump. This is actually why I switched to a tube reservoir. A perfect example of this shortcoming is the Maelstrom, even with the single DDC on a lower power, the reservoir would still gulp thru the included sponge wafer that's supposed to prevent the issue.


I recently downsized my four YYUUUGGGEE radiator dual pumps in serial behemoth water cooled CaseLabs behemoth rig to two 360 rads and switched to a bay reservoir. While filling these reservoirs, the pumps being behind and not under the res, do gulp air into the system at first. During normal operation, I have not experienced this issue as the pump intake is submerged when filling is complete. 

At any rate, it will have to be a rectangular reservoir as the space is tiny and there is nothing I could find after months of searching that will fit. Since I am waiting on 3rd gen Ryzen and Navi to decide whether to go AMD or Intel, Nvidia or a combo of either, I created mock ups of components using overall measurements of the form factors and current sizes. There is just about nowhere else to put a reservoir and definitely not a cylindrical res. 

These came close:

Tecnofront Micro

Swiftech Micro Res

Oh yes, as for material, I plan on using 1/4" or 3/8" acrylic sheet. I am leaning more toward 3/8 inch. I prefer the extra depth for threads.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Just got done...finally!


Looks great aside from that green WiFi card in a red and black build. 


Something like one of these could really tidy up the looks. Just food for thought.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7258W17107

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166121


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Fluxmaven said:


> Looks great aside from that green WiFi card in a red and black build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like one of these could really tidy up the looks. Just food for thought.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7258W17107
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166121




Thanks. I might just peel it off and paint the Heatsink. I got it for $20 and I don’t really want to spend money just so it matches with the build. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nycgtr

Fans and cables added.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

nycgtr said:


> Fans and cables added.




Good work filling out all that space 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

nice n clean, what case is that?


----------



## J7SC

nycgtr said:


> Fans and cables added.


 
Very nice; inspiring ! Can you add some more pics, pls ?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I’m actually envious of his cable management skills. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Barefooter

nycgtr said:


> Fans and cables added.





J7SC said:


> Very nice; inspiring ! Can you add some more pics, pls ?


^^ Yes more pics please!


----------



## nycgtr

skupples said:


> nice n clean, what case is that?


Lian li v3000



Barefooter said:


> ^^ Yes more pics please!


Added.


----------



## J7SC

nycgtr said:


> Lian li v3000
> 
> 
> 
> Added.


..Tx ! :drool:


----------



## skupples

gorgeous,

I've been thinking about getting their desk instead of modding one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Luvely luvely copper. :drool:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Blze001

Has anyone snipped off the cancerous Molex connector from their pump and replaced it with either a SATA or a 6-pin modular plug? I hate having the Molex cable taking up space when I just need one, also I hate that connector with a passion (I did computer maintenance at my university, I hate Molex and IDE ribbon cables so much).


----------



## skupples

just take it off & heat shrink over the connected pins.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Blze001 said:


> Has anyone snipped off the cancerous Molex connector from their pump and replaced it with either a SATA or a 6-pin modular plug? I hate having the Molex cable taking up space when I just need one, also I hate that connector with a passion (I did computer maintenance at my university, I hate Molex and IDE ribbon cables so much).




I hate it too. I second splicing it with a modular plug or creating one 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Barefooter

Blze001 said:


> Has anyone snipped off the cancerous Molex connector from their pump and replaced it with either a SATA or a 6-pin modular plug? I hate having the Molex cable taking up space when I just need one, also I hate that connector with a passion (I did computer maintenance at my university, I hate Molex and IDE ribbon cables so much).


Yeah I cut off the Molex connector and put a six pin aux connector on the end.











.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Barefooter said:


> Yeah I cut off the Molex connector and put a six pin aux connector on the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .




Can you tell us what the pin out for that is, or where you got it? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Leonko

its easy, molex pin connector has always same voltage scheme http://wiki.robotz.com/images/4/48/Four_Pin_Molex_Connector01.png 

.... so you gotta know what voltage scheme is on 6/8 pin connector you want to plug it in on your power supply and connect them right


----------



## Barefooter

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Can you tell us what the pin out for that is, or where you got it?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just used my volt meter on the stock cable to verify the pin out.

The red cable here is 12v and the other two are ground.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Leonko said:


> its easy, molex pin connector has always same voltage scheme http://wiki.robotz.com/images/4/48/Four_Pin_Molex_Connector01.png
> 
> 
> 
> .... so you gotta know what voltage scheme is on 6/8 pin connector you want to plug it in on your power supply and connect them right




Right. Since it’s only two wires (+12v and ground, it should just be two right? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Blze001

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Right. Since it’s only two wires (+12v and ground, it should just be two right?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I remember looking at it once, I think PCI power connectors have two 12v and two grounds (the outer corners), with the upper middle one being the sense wire. The bottom middle one isn't assigned to anything in the official spec, but I think most PSUs use it as a 3rd 12v.

Although as I asked this I realized I could just snip off the molex plugs for this PSU's molex cable, then solder the PSU connector directly to the pump's wires for an even cleaner solution than connecting to my SATA power cable.


----------



## Niju

Hey! I did a few custom loops back in the early 00s, but had dropped the hobby since 2005. I recently built a new PC and decided to dive into the rabbit hole again! Going through this forum was very helpful to get up to speed again (needless to say quite a few things have changed since my last loop), so wanted to share my build and say thanks! Bonus pic of my last loop from 2005


----------



## Destrto

Niju said:


> Hey! I did a few custom loops back in the early 00s, but had dropped the hobby since 2005. I recently built a new PC and decided to dive into the rabbit hole again! Going through this forum was very helpful to get up to speed again (needless to say quite a few things have changed since my last loop), so wanted to share my build and say thanks! Bonus pic of my last loop from 2005


Nice! I like the lines. Very simple. Puts everything on display nicely


----------



## Leonko

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Right. Since it’s only two wires (+12v and ground, it should just be two right?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Right. But as im looking at it right now, he has two pumps and he connected two 12V rails to one cable. I dont know if its good idea. If something, he should connect 2 grounds, when it comes to connecting cables, its better solution, or safer. 

I have done it almost same way, cause i dont trust those cheap molex connectors, and i dont like milion connector across case. I have 2x 6pins (separated 12V rail and ground on eash one). Straight to PSU, and its cleaner looking.


----------



## looniam

Leonko said:


> Right. But as im looking at it right now, he has two pumps and he connected two 12V rails to one cable.* I dont know if its good idea.* If something, he should connect 2 grounds, when it comes to connecting cables, its better solution, or safer.
> 
> I have done it almost same way, cause i dont trust those cheap molex connectors, and i dont like milion connector across case. I have 2x 6pins (separated 12V rail and ground on eash one). Straight to PSU, and its cleaner looking.


there is nothing wrong with that set up.


----------



## Questors

Niju said:


> Hey! I did a few custom loops back in the early 00s, but had dropped the hobby since 2005. I recently built a new PC and decided to dive into the rabbit hole again! Going through this forum was very helpful to get up to speed again (needless to say quite a few things have changed since my last loop), so wanted to share my build and say thanks! Bonus pic of my last loop from 2005


Nice build.

No offense meant to EKWB or Alphacool (I use their gear). One of the main aspects I enjoy about the build is the use of Watercool parts.


----------



## Niju

Questors said:


> Nice build.
> 
> No offense meant to EKWB or Alphacool (I use their gear). One of the main aspects I enjoy about the build is the use of Watercool parts.


Agreed on Watercool, loved the look and the quality of both the block and the res I used. There is an Alphacool XT45 rad hiding in the back chamber


----------



## Ceadderman

Why not simply get a Molex Power to SATA Power adapter that plugs in at the Molex and be done with it? It's a straight line connector that makes simple work of the solution. There are no wires involved with the one I am talking about. It resides between Molex and SATA connections. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## skupples

or as B likes to call it, Alphastool. 

 Heatkiller is nice stuff for sure though. & Anything from Aquacomputer.


----------



## Streetdragon

Hiho watercoolers!

just a little question: How high is your Delta-T between water and air temp under full load with which hardware?
I recently added a secound 1080TI and with 2 Cards(Full power gaming) and 5930K(4.6Ghz) i hit 7° Delta-T and i could puke....
With downclocked GPUs(1800Mhz 0.850V) i hit around 4,5° Delta-T

What are your results?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Streetdragon said:


> Hiho watercoolers!
> 
> just a little question: How high is your Delta-T between water and air temp under full load with which hardware?
> I recently added a secound 1080TI and with 2 Cards(Full power gaming) and 5930K(4.6Ghz) i hit 7° Delta-T and i could puke....
> With downclocked GPUs(1800Mhz 0.850V) i hit around 4,5° Delta-T
> 
> What are your results?



Obviously it depends on the rig... but I usually over-rad so it's rarely more than 4-5°C.


*RIG 1: 3X 360mm rads and 2X 240mm rads - dual D5's - 7920X @ 4.7GHz - 2X 1080TI's*
Loaded ~4°C delta on that... most of the time it's like ~2°C.



*RIG 2: 1X 480mm + 1X 360mm rads - single D5 - 7820X @ 5.0GHz - single 1080TI*
Loaded 6°C - normal 3°C


*RIG 3: 2X 240mm rads - single DDC - 7700K @ 5.2GHz - single 1080*
Loaded 7°C - Normal 3°C


* Although I take some time to attempt to calibrate sensors, this is a really poor metric to consider in most cases. For example, on my biggest system (RIG 1) I occasionally see temps at idle that put water temp a few tenths of a degree _below ambient_... which is obvious garbage as I don't have a chiller, etc. Without something more precise than the 2-pin sensors used in almost all WC gear, it's more of a rough estimate than a true reading. Also I average air temp from 2-3 intake locations and water temps from 2 locations in the AQ6... so although that eliminates some anomalous readings, it also introduces the possibilities of others.


TL;DR - I think 7°C deltas are just fine... but if you're worried about it, add more radiator surface. You can never have too much!


----------



## Streetdragon

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Obviously it depends on the rig... but I usually over-rad so it's rarely more than 4-5°C.
> 
> 
> *RIG 1: 3X 360mm rads and 2X 240mm rads - dual D5's - 7920X @ 4.7GHz - 2X 1080TI's*
> Loaded ~4°C delta on that... most of the time it's like ~2°C.
> 
> 
> 
> *RIG 2: 1X 480mm + 1X 360mm rads - single D5 - 7820X @ 5.0GHz - single 1080TI*
> Loaded 6°C - normal 3°C
> 
> 
> *RIG 3: 2X 240mm rads - single DDC - 7700K @ 5.2GHz - single 1080*
> Loaded 7°C - Normal 3°C
> 
> 
> * Although I take some time to attempt to calibrate sensors, this is a really poor metric to consider in most cases. For example, on my biggest system (RIG 1) I occasionally see temps at idle that put water temp a few tenths of a degree _below ambient_... which is obvious garbage as I don't have a chiller, etc. Without something more precise than the 2-pin sensors used in almost all WC gear, it's more of a rough estimate than a true reading. Also I average air temp from 2-3 intake locations and water temps from 2 locations in the AQ6... so although that eliminates some anomalous readings, it also introduces the possibilities of others.
> 
> 
> TL;DR - I think 7°C deltas are just fine... but if you're worried about it, add more radiator surface. You can never have too much!


more is always better^^
Forget to say how my cooling system looks like:
1x D5 Pump
2x 240 Slim rads,
2x 480 thicker rads
All in a Core X9 case with a little mod to hold the 2 240 rads in the front part.
I thought about adding a mora external just for fun, but i dont know if my D5 likes the idea like i do xD


----------



## Ceadderman

Streetdragon said:


> more is always better^^
> Forget to say how my cooling system looks like:
> 1x D5 Pump
> 2x 240 Slim rads,
> 2x 480 thicker rads
> All in a Core X9 case with a little mod to hold the 2 240 rads in the front part.
> I thought about adding a mora external just for fun, but i dont know if my D5 likes the idea like i do xD


You should add your rig to your sig, so we can see why your delta is so high. Cause what amounts to three 480s(even one slim) doesn't seem to be working for just two 1080 TI unless they're not blocked and are blowing hot air all over the case. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Streetdragon

OK last try to post this... stupid database error-.-
Added rig in sig with picture.

200mm fan "feeds" smal rads. Air goes to the bottom part and escapes though the rear and cools the HDDs etc
Top rads are intake. Air escapes throug the rear.
No dustfilter. I just clean the rig from time to time.

D5 runs at 4000Rpm
Fans at idle 600Rpm
When Delta-T > 5 = 1050RPM fans. more or less 55% speed

Pump-SmalRad-BigRad-BigRad-Cpu-GPUs in Parallel-SmalRad


----------



## TeslaHUN

Im done with the new build :

Small video :


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Streetdragon said:


> more is always better^^
> Forget to say how my cooling system looks like:
> 1x D5 Pump
> 2x 240 Slim rads,
> 2x 480 thicker rads
> All in a Core X9 case with a little mod to hold the 2 240 rads in the front part.
> I thought about adding a mora external just for fun, but i dont know if my D5 likes the idea like i do xD



Wow... Assuming that everything is blocked that does seem to be a high delta with all that rad... you're only 120mm worth behind my big system in radiator surface and I have to really push things to get over 3C or so with that. A single D5 should be OK on that but I'd consider adding another (and I definitely would if you added a MoRa to it)!

What are your fan speeds running at? Might need to run them a little higher?


----------



## ThrashZone

Streetdragon said:


> OK last try to post this... stupid database error-.-
> Added rig in sig with picture.
> 
> 200mm fan "feeds" smal rads. Air goes to the bottom part and escapes though the rear and cools the HDDs etc
> Top rads are intake. Air escapes throug the rear.
> No dustfilter. I just clean the rig from time to time.
> 
> D5 runs at 4000Rpm
> Fans at idle 600Rpm
> When Delta-T > 5 = 1050RPM fans. more or less 55% speed
> 
> Pump-SmalRad-BigRad-BigRad-Cpu-GPUs in Parallel-SmalRad


Hi,
If you add images or edit content you'll have to uncheck show rig in sig and save exit.
Then return and recheck rig in sig before the new stuff shows up.


----------



## Streetdragon

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Wow... Assuming that everything is blocked that does seem to be a high delta with all that rad... you're only 120mm worth behind my big system in radiator surface and I have to really push things to get over 3C or so with that. A single D5 should be OK on that but I'd consider adding another (and I definitely would if you added a MoRa to it)!
> 
> What are your fan speeds running at? Might need to run them a little higher?


a bit higher and it start to get noise. 3000RPM the temps are nice low, but my ears starts bleeding xD



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If you add images or edit content you'll have to uncheck show rig in sig and save exit.
> Then return and recheck rig in sig before the new stuff shows up.


Made the update^^


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Boom there's the image :thumb:


----------



## skupples

MORA - for when I go SFF, but don't wanna bust knuckles trying to mount radiators inside a case the size of a shoe.


----------



## nycgtr

Wife rig update v2


----------



## Blackops_2

Level with me here guys on the 45 degree bend from pump to the GPU isn't exactly the best or straight (my first hardline attempt double 90 took three hours lol). But i've leak tested for 72hrs without issue. Should i go ahead and redo it?


----------



## dwolvin

It all depends on what it looks like to you in person... And if you are willing to be without a computer for that long!


----------



## J7SC

nycgtr said:


> Wife rig update v2


 
That's very nice, also (relating to your recent posts and pics re the other rig). I really love that blue cooling liquid but I have yet to use anything other than clear PC cooling liquid with the usual additives (re corrosion, bio) + distilled water ...because I'm a bit paranoid about the new liquids (pastels, neon etc) re. longer term use and degradation, deposits on fins etc. But since I have used them, I don't really know :sad-smile


----------



## nycgtr

J7SC said:


> That's very nice, also (relating to your recent posts and pics re the other rig). I really love that blue cooling liquid but I have yet to use anything other than clear PC cooling liquid with the usual additives (re corrosion, bio) + distilled water ...because I'm a bit paranoid about the new liquids (pastels, neon etc) re. longer term use and degradation, deposits on fins etc. But since I have used them, I don't really know :sad-smile


Stay away from colors liked red, uv stuff , or effects coolant and you should be fine. I've never had a problem with mayhems pastel blue in the 6 yrs or so of using it.


----------



## J7SC

nycgtr said:


> Stay away from colors liked red, uv stuff , or effects coolant and you should be fine. I've never had a problem with mayhems pastel blue in the 6 yrs or so of using it.


 
Thanks - that time period of use sounds encouraging...I think I'll try it out on one of my older but still-in-use w-cooled rigs...what is the make / name of that blue liquid :wubsmiley you're using ?


----------



## Blackops_2

dwolvin said:


> It all depends on what it looks like to you in person... And if you are willing to be without a computer for that long!


It looks fine to me i guess i was worried more or less by a little pressure on the fittings since the run isn't as clean as it needs to be. Rig has been down since Christmas lol i honestly don't feel like bending any more. I wanna drain it, fill back up with Pastel Friday, and go.


----------



## skupples

Blackops_2 said:


> Level with me here guys on the 45 degree bend from pump to the GPU isn't exactly the best or straight (my first hardline attempt double 90 took three hours lol). But i've leak tested for 72hrs without issue. Should i go ahead and redo it?


not unless you're really that anally retentive about something no one will ever see.

I'd be more focused on finding a way to remove as many of those 90s as possible. Double your flow rates, drop 1-2c.


----------



## Blackops_2

skupples said:


> not unless you're really that anally retentive about something no one will ever see.
> 
> I'd be more focused on finding a way to remove as many of those 90s as possible. Double your flow rates, drop 1-2c.


I probably should but as bad as this sounds i don't feel like messing with it lol. Also been running this 780 for a while and even with Skyn3t's Bios had a hard time getting past 1250 on the core. Bit disappointed or maybe i'm too much of a novice but neither 780 classy i've been able to run at 1300+ like i wanted. I thought i might have been lacking on power when i had the SLi setup with just an 850w PSU. I've got my seasonic x-1250 Gold in this one so maybe that gives me more headroom. 3770k is still at 4.5ghz as usual. Even with the flow restriction with 120x6 of rad space it should be fine right?


----------



## skupples

Blackops_2 said:


> I probably should but as bad as this sounds i don't feel like messing with it lol. Also been running this 780 for a while and even with Skyn3t's Bios had a hard time getting past 1250 on the core. Bit disappointed or maybe i'm too much of a novice but neither 780 classy i've been able to run at 1300+ like i wanted. I thought i might have been lacking on power when i had the SLi setup with just an 850w PSU. I've got my seasonic x-1250 Gold in this one so maybe that gives me more headroom. 3770k is still at 4.5ghz as usual. Even with the flow restriction with 120x6 of rad space it should be fine right?


You need more than Sky's BIOS to get those clocks. You need the NCP voltage controller hack.

Go to the original Titan Owners Club. All the info you need is in the sig. 

Assuming the card is under water, 1400mhz + should be easily attainable if my memory serves. All you gotta do is up the voltage, which as said above. Is explained in the Titan Club, and is all done via command prompt. I know Zawarudo made a tool for it as well (RIP)

oh wait, it's a classy. You'll have to go to the Classy club for specific steps on upping voltage. I'm pretty sure NV had already caught into the buck controller hacks by the time 780 classy released, which means access might be a bit harder, or even require that EVGA OC panel that no longer exists.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Some new additions to my custom loop including bigger rad, taller res, another 1TB NVMe with PCI-E adapter and heatsink, redoing some tube runs to accommodate new stuff and mounting my old iPhone 6S Plus to use as my new hardware monitor.

Original build and updates with tons of pics here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...r-3-0-gallery-build-log-update-5-14-19-a.html

Let me know what you guys think.


























































































































































For those of you wondering, there's obviously a LOT of lighting on this thing but when I'm gaming I turn off everything I can and then it's very little:


----------



## J7SC

GraphicsWhore said:


> Some new additions to my custom loop including bigger rad, taller res, another 1TB NVMe with PCI-E adapter and heatsink, redoing some tube runs to accommodate new stuff and mounting my old iPhone 6S Plus to use as my new hardware monitor.
> 
> Original build and updates with tons of pics here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...r-3-0-gallery-build-log-update-5-14-19-a.html
> 
> Let me know what you guys think.
> (...)


 
That's a very cool setup, and on a Core P5 :wubsmiley , too. I like those fittings but can't quite make out the make ?


----------



## GraphicsWhore

J7SC said:


> That's a very cool setup, and on a Core P5 :wubsmiley , too. I like those fittings but can't quite make out the make ?


Thanks. Fittings are Monsoon EV2.


----------



## Barefooter

GraphicsWhore said:


> Some new additions to my custom loop including bigger rad, taller res, another 1TB NVMe with PCI-E adapter and heatsink, redoing some tube runs to accommodate new stuff and mounting my old iPhone 6S Plus to use as my new hardware monitor.
> 
> Original build and updates with tons of pics here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...r-3-0-gallery-build-log-update-5-14-19-a.html
> 
> Let me know what you guys think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you wondering, there's obviously a LOT of lighting on this thing but when I'm gaming I turn off everything I can and then it's very little:


Awesome looking build!

I especially like the use of the phone as a monitoring screen... and the matching red couch :thumb:


.


----------



## J7SC

GraphicsWhore said:


> Thanks. Fittings are Monsoon EV2.


Thank you


----------



## Leonko

guys i have a big dilema 

bits silver shinning + x1 clear and red light
bits deep blood red + x1 clear + deep red dye and white light

??


----------



## Questors

Leonko said:


> guys i have a big dilema
> 
> bits silver shinning + x1 clear and red light
> bits deep blood red + x1 clear + deep red dye and white light
> 
> ??


Royal blue + x1 clear + red dye and white light. Because more choices make it easier? 

Seriously, I am liking the second choice, bits deep blood red + x1 clear + deep red dye and white light.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

So what have I missed on my my sabbatical? 

New stuff from EK, pressure testers coming soon, new bending tool for tube and new inserts for PETG tube.

I am also hugely disappointed in the level of competence on social media....


----------



## Questors

B NEGATIVE said:


> So what have I missed on my my sabbatical?
> 
> New stuff from EK, pressure testers coming soon, new bending tool for tube and new inserts for PETG tube.
> 
> *I am also hugely disappointed in the level of competence on social media....*


This ^ :lachen:


----------



## Ceadderman

B NEGATIVE said:


> So what have I missed on my my sabbatical?
> 
> *New stuff from EK, pressure testers coming soon, new bending tool for tube and new inserts for PETG tube.*
> 
> I am also hugely disappointed in the level of competence on social media....


:wheee: Cannot wait! Shows us the goodies B! :wheee:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Alxz

Hi all

Just made a waterblock for my PC-O6SX. I hope you like it


----------



## mouacyk

Alxz said:


> Hi all
> 
> Just made a waterblock for my PC-O6SX. I hope you like it


whoa. more pics please


----------



## skupples

B NEGATIVE said:


> So what have I missed on my my sabbatical?
> 
> New stuff from EK, pressure testers coming soon, new bending tool for tube and new inserts for PETG tube.
> 
> I am also hugely disappointed in the level of competence on social media....


yeaaah, its frustrating what's happened to dissemination of information. Forums shrink as the 4chan/reddit/twitter format takes over the world.


----------



## Alxz

mouacyk said:


> whoa. more pics please


Here are some more!


----------



## J7SC

Alxz said:


> Here are some more!


 
...very clean, very nice :thumb:


----------



## wermad

Nothing special but it's good enough to run productivity and some uwhd gaming when I get a chance.


----------



## TeslaHUN

wermad said:


> Nothing special but it's good enough to run productivity and some uwhd gaming when I get a chance.



wow 13 intake fan and only 1 exhaust  
Do i see right or im blind ? 3 fan in push pull on front radiators ?:O


----------



## Ceadderman

TeslaHUN said:


> wow 13 intake fan and only 1 exhaust
> Do i see right or im blind ? 3 fan in push pull on front radiators ?:O


2 of those Intakes are actually Shrouds I think. The ones in the front.

Although he'd do better running the top kit as Exhaust. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
No way all intake is good 
All air pushed out where ever it can back of the case which is open for a reason/ cracks... :thumb:


----------



## looniam

wermad said:


> Nothing special but it's good enough to run productivity and some uwhd gaming when I get a chance.


how dare you disgrace this thread w/AIOs.

j/k.

though i would be tempted at looking to throw both the gpus on a single 360 rad . . but that's me.

if it works for you, thats all that matters. :thumb:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The Start of a G5 Mod...


----------



## Blze001

B NEGATIVE said:


> The Start of a G5 Mod...


You stole my idea, I was just thinking about doing this!

Oh well, I'll just follow your flailing and have a better idea of what to avoid.


----------



## skupples

B does not simply flail...


----------



## Fluxmaven

B NEGATIVE said:


> The Start of a G5 Mod...


Always wanted to do a build in one of these cases. The Mountain Mods ATX tray takes a lot of the work out of the conversion. 

https://www.mountainmods.com/product_info.php?products_id=56


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

B NEGATIVE said:


> So what have I missed on my my sabbatical?
> 
> New stuff from EK, pressure testers coming soon, new bending tool for tube and new inserts for PETG tube.
> 
> I am also hugely disappointed in the level of competence on social media....



Totally agree with you... except I wouldn't have qualified that statement with "on social media".


----------



## Gilles3000

B NEGATIVE said:


> The Start of a G5 Mod...


Sweet, love me a good G5 mod. Going to keep the outside original or are you going to paint it?



Blze001 said:


> You stole my idea, I was just thinking about doing this!
> 
> Oh well, I'll just follow your flailing and have a better idea of what to avoid.


There have been more than a few G5 mods, here on OCN as well. Almost all of them took ages and some never finished, its not an easy mod to do well.

I'd have a look at a few of the earlier ones as well, because BNeg is probably going to make it look easy.


----------



## vicyo

I have never thought that one day I would be using 75 bucks worth of fittings just to make a stupid bend and hide it behind the gpu


----------



## TheCautiousOne

vicyo said:


> I have never thought that one day I would be using 75 bucks worth of fittings just to make a stupid bend and hide it behind the gpu


75$.... psh.... Anyways welcome to the club! 

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

vicyo said:


> I have never thought that one day I would be using 75 bucks worth of fittings just to make a stupid bend and hide it behind the gpu




But at least you used them . . . . .


Wait until you've bought 75 bucks worth of fittings, only to realize that the best way to do the run doesn't use any of them, . . . . . for about the third time . . .


----------



## skupples

IT Diva said:


> But at least you used them . . . . .
> 
> 
> Wait until you've bought 75 bucks worth of fittings, only to realize that the best way to do the run doesn't use any of them, . . . . . for about the third time . . .


or that you some how missed that you ordered the wrong gauge piece. 

I've done this with quick disconnects twice now, and did it a few times with barbs in the beginning.

Between the two, I almost have enough pieces for some weird g3/8 build.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Tired of my pastel and wanting to go back with a clear fluid. Would you recommend Mayhems X1 or EK Cryofuel?


----------



## wermad

TeslaHUN said:


> wermad said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing special but it's good enough to run productivity and some uwhd gaming when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow 13 intake fan and only 1 exhaust /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> Do i see right or im blind ? 3 fan in push pull on front radiators ?:O
Click to expand...

Positive pressure:
Intake:
Top: h105 p/p + 120mm
Front: 120mm + gpu #1 rad p/p w/ shrouds + gpu #2 rad p/p w/ shrouds (i killed a few fans when i painted the blades)
Side: 120mm 

Exhaust:
Rear: 120mm




Ceadderman said:


> TeslaHUN said:
> 
> 
> 
> wow 13 intake fan and only 1 exhaust /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> Do i see right or im blind ? 3 fan in push pull on front radiators ?:O
> 
> 
> 
> 2 of those Intakes are actually Shrouds I think. The ones in the front.
> 
> Although he'd do better running the top kit as Exhaust. /forum/images/smilies/thinking.gif
> 
> ~Ceadder /forum/images/smilies/smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Click to expand...

The gpus hit their max before throttling. Might mod them and put them on bigger rads. This is my first TG build and i can see how heat gets built up quickly. Might to Bykski blocks in the next six months and full custom loop. I do lile the stock coolers, so i might just upgrade rads on the 295x2s.

For now im playing the the fan curve (cpu) to help control the gpu temps. The gpu cant run the pwm SP120 for some odd reason. 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> No way all intake is good
> All air pushed out where ever it can back of the case which is open for a reason/ cracks... /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif


Never had issues with massive pressure. See my Saturn V Tx10d build. 




looniam said:


> wermad said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing special but it's good enough to run productivity and some uwhd gaming when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> how dare you disgrace this thread w/AIOs.
> 
> j/k.
> 
> though i would be tempted at looking to throw both the gpus on a single 360 rad . . but that's me.
> 
> if it works for you, thats all that matters. /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
Click to expand...

Lol, aio's still getting hate 😛. It's my first full aio build. I dont have time right now to go full custom (new job, University, college for CPA credits, kids, etc.). I have some other personal goals for now. Maybe a Bykski loop 😄


----------



## Majentrix

It's done! Took 9 hours and one explosive leak during bleeding, but it's done!

Overnight leak test came back all clear, and now my 2080 is idling at 20c


----------



## J7SC

Majentrix said:


> It's done! Took 9 hours and one explosive leak during bleeding, but it's done!
> 
> Overnight leak test came back all clear, and now my 2080 is idling at 20c


 
...hats off, very nice ! 
My latest project involved copper tubing for two GPUs...not the same as working with soft tubing  btw, what about '...explosive leak during bleeding'...?!


----------



## Majentrix

J7SC said:


> ...hats off, very nice !
> My latest project involved copper tubing for two GPUs...not the same as working with soft tubing  btw, what about '...explosive leak during bleeding'...?!


I'm using a res/pump combo, and I crossthreaded the seal between the pump and res. I was filling the loop, and as I turn on the pump, the two units blew apart and sprayed water about three meters away. 

Cleaned up the mess, properly sealed the pump and res, let the PC dry in front of a heater for a few hours, and it was all good.


----------



## J7SC

Majentrix said:


> I'm using a res/pump combo, and I crossthreaded the seal between the pump and res. I was filling the loop, and as I turn on the pump, the two units blew apart and sprayed water about three meters away.
> 
> Cleaned up the mess, properly sealed the pump and res, let the PC dry in front of a heater for a few hours, and it was all good.


 
:thumb:


----------



## rolandos582

How do you guys handle your cable management at the back? Mines a mess and I wanna see how I can improve on it. So many cables and stuff ...


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> How do you guys handle your cable management at the back? Mines a mess and I wanna see how I can improve on it. So many cables and stuff ...




Lots of tape and a whole bunch of Velcro zip ties.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Zip ties usually come in handy.
https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/zip-ties


----------



## rolandos582

U guys have any pictures to give me an idea? I know my Caselabs case comes with handy options to mount the zipties too but how do you even route all those cables and still make it look great / workable.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If your case has a solid side panel I wouldn't worry about it = out of sight out of mind 

But most issues I've run across are fan wiring which 3-4 wire extensions can come in handy to make them longer and more flexible on how they can be routed.


----------



## rolandos582

Shawnb99 said:


> Lots of tape and a whole bunch of Velcro zip ties.





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Zip ties usually come in handy.
> https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/zip-ties





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If your case has a solid side panel I wouldn't worry about it = out of sight out of mind
> 
> But most issues I've run across are fan wiring which 3-4 wire extensions can come in handy to make them longer and more flexible on how they can be routed.


Oh yeah for sure, I'm running 16 fans and those wires are going everywhere. I have them setup in Splitty9's but the cables still run over the entire panel.

It's true, if you don't see it, don't worry about it. But the cables are all strangling inside eachother so i'm trying to get the clean look! 
So far i'm using velcro to mount the aquaero / splitty9 etc and double sided velcro to bundle the cables together. But it's not an easy job if you got a ton of cables running around.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Might consider plastic wire loom and bunch them or as many it takes to route to the same basic location and color code the ends so you know which wire end goes to which fan 
Assortment of color makers and just a dot can take away some confusion away 

Use 3-4 wire fan wire extensions to get your splittys a little closer to the actual places the fans are at would probably help a lot.


----------



## nanotm

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Might consider plastic wire loom and bunch them or as many it takes to route to the same basic location and color code the ends so you know which wire end goes to which fan
> Assortment of color makers and just a dot can take away some confusion away
> 
> Use 3-4 wire fan wire extensions to get your splittys a little closer to the actual places the fans are at would probably help a lot.


I found that the more time I spend making my spaghetti wire system look neat the more often I have to undo it and change something so I ended up just getting a few zip sleeves hide that stuff away


----------



## rolandos582

nanotm said:


> I found that the more time I spend making my spaghetti wire system look neat the more often I have to undo it and change something so I ended up just getting a few zip sleeves hide that stuff away


Hmm yeah, but if you use something like double sided velcro, u can just release and reuse. 

I was thinking about called clips like these, https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Adhesive-Cable-Management-Adjustable/dp/B00U32LS0Q 
Since you can open them and make t hem follow a certain path.


----------



## Shawnb99

This is about as clean as I can get mine. I only spent a couple months trying to make as clean as I can and in the end said screw it as long as it works. 
Even now I don’t have it all working and will be redoing it in a week. 










There’s 2 Quadro’s and a Hubby7 under there if you can even find them. 
That’s my own fault for having so much.

35 fans on 7 splitty9’s, 4 pumps, 2 flow sensors, 11 temp sensors, Aqualias res, 2 Hubby7’s and 2 Quadros does make a big mess.

I likely can get a lot cleaner but it’s hard, specially when cables break or you need to take it apart.
Being able to take it apart easy it just as important as making it clean.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Shawnb99 said:


> This is about as clean as I can get mine. I only spent a couple months trying to make as clean as I can and in the end said screw it as long as it works.
> Even now I don’t have it all working and will be redoing it in a week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There’s 2 Quadro’s and a Hubby7 under there if you can even find them.
> That’s my own fault for having so much.
> 
> 35 fans on 7 splitty9’s, 4 pumps, 2 flow sensors, 11 temp sensors, Aqualias res, 2 Hubby7’s and 2 Quadros does make a big mess.
> 
> I likely can get a lot cleaner but it’s hard, specially when cables break or you need to take it apart.
> Being able to take it apart easy it just as important as making it clean.


Wow 35 fan 4pump ,more picture about the full system pls


----------



## Shawnb99

The pedestal 










And the front










All four Radiators are in push/pull config.

Last M8 Pedestal Caselabs ever made so colour if gunmetal instead of black


----------



## rolandos582

I'm not too sure what's going on that system. Why would you not get a black pedestal? I see you also got some demciflex filters, just like mine it's hard to get them straight and they get kinda floppy.

Compared to yours, mines not even that bad! Maybe i'm just being picky here.


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> I'm not too sure what's going on that system. Why would you not get a black pedestal? I see you also got some demciflex filters, just like mine it's hard to get them straight and they get kinda floppy.
> 
> Compared to yours, mines not even that bad! Maybe i'm just being picky here.


This was the last pedestal they made, there wasn't an option to get in black only one left was this one so I got it anyways. Was a few months before they announced they were closing


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah reminds me of the movie snake on the plane


----------



## rolandos582

Shawnb99 said:


> This was the last pedestal they made, there wasn't an option to get in black only one left was this one so I got it anyways. Was a few months before they announced they were closing


Ah I see yeah, I don't know why people need pedestals. The case is so huge already, unless you're cooling like 7 components, do you really need that much rad space?

This is my system about a couple months ago. I've changed the cables and the colours. The layout is pretty much the same, I prefer the clean looks!


----------



## skupples

I just downsize as they die now. I'm down to 3 in my STH10, from 5. it's finally made maintenance & keeping things tidy easy. Before that, I'd have to flip it upside down & remove the bottom floor door to access runs & wires. 

do not miss. Will not do something that silly again. 

I've actually decided my next case will be the LianLi double wide, digital, adjustable deskcase.


----------



## Shawnb99

No I don't need all that rad space, I wanted more though. If I could do it over I'd gotten the TX-10 and the pedestal for that and gone crazy. I like having lots of room.


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> I just downsize as they die now. I'm down to 3 in my STH10, from 5. it's finally made maintenance & keeping things tidy easy. Before that, I'd have to flip it upside down & remove the bottom floor door to access runs & wires.
> 
> do not miss. Will not do something that silly again.
> 
> *I've actually decided my next case will be the LianLi double wide, digital, adjustable deskcase*.



...yeah, that one is very tempting / been thinking about it for an upcoming build


----------



## skupples

The STH10 is the last case I purchased, and that was nearly a decade ago now. So I figure I'm allowed... Once I buy a house... and once I exercise the poltergeist from my current build. 

having this weird issue where some games simply won't run, after launching into blackness... or better yet, sometimes I can't even get icons to double click. 

On top of that, some random sparse vertical artifacts when SLI is enabled  

the first issue makes me think my RAID is going bad, but the second issue makes me think I may have damaged my board or a GPU while forcing two mismatching EK GPU blocks into the same system with only 1 slot spacing.

moral of the story - don't try to build a new PC outta new parts & used parts while in the process of getting a new job, & moving cross state. 

for all I know this used 1080ti I purchased is bunk  however, the fact games run fine in SLI, when they do launch leads me to think it might be something else, or a compounded issue. Oh, benches never fail to load though, that's one thing I noticed. Most of my games fail to load, but all of my benches load just fine, no issues stressing one or both cards. 

anywho, not the place for this.


----------



## Gunderman456

skupples said:


> The STH10 is the last case I purchased, and that was nearly a decade ago now. So I figure I'm allowed... Once I buy a house... and once I exercise the poltergeist from my current build.
> 
> having this weird issue where some games simply won't run, after launching into blackness... or better yet, sometimes I can't even get icons to double click.
> 
> On top of that, some random sparse vertical artifacts when SLI is enabled
> 
> the first issue makes me think my RAID is going bad, but the second issue makes me think I may have damaged my board or a GPU while forcing two mismatching EK GPU blocks into the same system with only 1 slot spacing.
> 
> moral of the story - don't try to build a new PC outta new parts & used parts while in the process of getting a new job, & moving cross state.
> 
> for all I know this used 1080ti I purchased is bunk  however, the fact games run fine in SLI, when they do launch leads me to think it might be something else, or a compounded issue. Oh, benches never fail to load though, that's one thing I noticed. Most of my games fail to load, but all of my benches load just fine, no issues stressing one or both cards.
> 
> anywho, not the place for this.


Most likely a broken OS.


----------



## lightsout

Alxz said:


> Here are some more!


Is that stainless steel tubing? Looks awesome!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

rolandos582 said:


> Ah I see yeah, I don't know why people need pedestals. The case is so huge already, unless you're cooling like 7 components, do you really need that much rad space?
> 
> This is my system about a couple months ago. I've changed the cables and the colours. The layout is pretty much the same, I prefer the clean looks!



Actually, the M8 isn't really all that large - at least depending on what you put in it. It's not a very deep case, and once you shove a couple of GPUs, some radiators (OK... I may have gone a little overboard there... but meh), and PSU, drives, etc... it gets small enough to want a pedestal pretty fast.
You've got an SMA8 so technically you've got a pedestal too... it's just integrated into the case itself.



And I agree on the out-of-sight mentality. I try for 'neat' in the sense that airflow is as unobstructed as possible... but beyond that - unless you make every cable custom and plan in layers... eventually that many wires is going to be at least a little 'messy'.
Back/Front of same build:


----------



## Kritikill

rolandos582 said:


> U guys have any pictures to give me an idea? I know my Caselabs case comes with handy options to mount the zipties too but how do you even route all those cables and still make it look great / workable.



While it to a bit. I got mine the way i wanted it. Zip Ties, Cable clamps, and 3M VHB Tape


----------



## rolandos582

Kritikill said:


> While it to a bit. I got mine the way i wanted it. Zip Ties, Cable clamps, and 3M VHB Tape


I was looking at thos cable clambs but they're pretty expensive no?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

GOD I HATE THIS P.O.S. WEBSITE!!!


I just made a post with links to all of those and more... twice... both times error-out on post.


Not going to bother again. Suffice it to say that they are less than the taxes or shipping was on your two reservoirs. Those flat ones are about $2.50/ea and if you look at McMaster-Carr or other electrical supply stores... they've got tons for $5-10 for packs of 25.


Even if you fully outfitted your case with multiple clips for every main run - you're probably talking less than $30... or the price of a single dual rotary fitting from Bitspower.


----------



## rolandos582

DiGiCiDAL said:


> GOD I HATE THIS P.O.S. WEBSITE!!!
> 
> 
> I just made a post with links to all of those and more... twice... both times error-out on post.
> 
> 
> Not going to bother again. Suffice it to say that they are less than the taxes or shipping was on your two reservoirs. Those flat ones are about $2.50/ea and if you look at McMaster-Carr or other electrical supply stores... they've got tons for $5-10 for packs of 25.
> 
> 
> Even if you fully outfitted your case with multiple clips for every main run - you're probably talking less than $30... or the price of a single dual rotary fitting from Bitspower.


I just ordered 3 for €6,95 so it's about the same here in Europe I guess. Got 6 in total, should be fine for some nice cable wiring. These look about the same, pretty clean!


----------



## Gilles3000

rolandos582 said:


> I was looking at thos cable clambs but they're pretty expensive no?


Nah, they're dirt cheap, like $3 for a pack of 15-20 depending on the size.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32919582126.html


----------



## rolandos582

Gilles3000 said:


> Nah, they're dirt cheap, like $3 for a pack of 15-20 depending on the size.
> 
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32919582126.html


Oh ****, instead of getting 2 of each. I'm getting 15/20 each for less of a price. Seems like a good deal. The only thing is shipping, I don't wanna wait 2 months 
So u spend a bit more on shipping but still good! Thanks for that!  

Any more good deals like these?


----------



## wermad

https://www.etsy.com/listing/576928...MI-PqvnJPx4gIVh_5kCh0zpATcEAQYASABEgJDz_D_BwE


----------



## rolandos582

wermad said:


> https://www.etsy.com/listing/576928...MI-PqvnJPx4gIVh_5kCh0zpATcEAQYASABEgJDz_D_BwE


Dayum that looks hella sweet! Im doing some cable management myself now.

WIP but huge improvement. Cables and splitty9 hidden between edges of the case!


----------



## thomasck

A contribution from a 1st timer experience with wc,

lian li o11d
3xls360
raijintek d5
bykski blocks and fittings
corsair sp120 fans
ek dura clear hose
ek cryfuel clear










to be changed to petg and add a drain valve, once I'm done with thinkering about layout, curves, and time to do it.


----------



## Questors

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Actually, the M8 isn't really all that large - at least depending on what you put in it. It's not a very deep case, and once you shove a couple of GPUs, some radiators (OK... I may have gone a little overboard there... but meh), and PSU, drives, etc... it gets small enough to want a pedestal pretty fast.
> You've got an SMA8 so technically you've got a pedestal too... it's just integrated into the case itself.
> 
> 
> 
> And I agree on the out-of-sight mentality. I try for 'neat' in the sense that airflow is as unobstructed as possible... but beyond that - unless you make every cable custom and plan in layers... eventually that many wires is going to be at least a little 'messy'.
> Back/Front of same build:


This reminds me of my Merlin ST10 with dual pedestals. Do I need them? Heck no! Did I want them? Heck yes! Two Hardware Labs 360 rads in one pedestal, two EKWB XTX 480 rads in the other and one XSPC 480 rad in the main chassis. I had more room in main chamber for other parts and dual pumps without restricting the radiator airflow. 

I recently had to downsize to the two Hardware Labs SR2 360s back in the main chassis. It's okay though. This allows me to build a SFF with a cooling loop with the funds recaptured from sale of the parts.
I started a build log here Small is BIG!.
This is a multi-month long project as Ryzen CPUs are released and possibly Navi 12 (Navi 20?) and motherboard makers release mini-ITX boards for 3rd gen Ryzen.


----------



## rolandos582

What do you guys think about mounting a hdd without a cage. Is that a thing these days? Dont really want to use a bulky cage if i can use velcro


----------



## wermad

mechanical or ssd?

SSD can easily be mounted with velcro. I'm sure you can get away doing this on a 2.5 hdd. A 3.5 hdd might be a tad too heavy. I'm sure with some simple tools, you can mount the hdd to the case or a bracket to the case. If you want a bracket/cage option, there's some out there that mount to a 120mm fan


----------



## ThrashZone

rolandos582 said:


> What do you guys think about mounting a hdd without a cage. Is that a thing these days? Dont really want to use a bulky cage if i can use velcro


Hi,
Hdd's are a heck of a lot different than ssd's 
Hdd's put out some heat and need spaces between them to cool off plus not heat up one another.


----------



## Gilles3000

rolandos582 said:


> What do you guys think about mounting a hdd without a cage. Is that a thing these days? Dont really want to use a bulky cage if i can use velcro


Maybe if you use high quality velcro and your case is in a safe place where nothing can bump it, maybe.

Still wouldn't recommend it tho, I'd always recommend securely mounting your HDD's, preferably with vibration damping.

I'd suggest that if you don't want to bother with HDD cages, you're probably better off not installing HDD's in your case at all. You can just place your HDD in a raidbox or a NAS(Doesn't have to be expensive, you can build one out of an older pc.)


----------



## looniam

i was thinking drilling two small holes to screw in the side or bottom of the HD on the side or frame of the case. maybe even back mobo tray, if it has any air flow.


----------



## rolandos582

Hmm yeah, i have SSDs but i also have a 4TB WD blue for random storage. I could use one of my caselabs hdd brackets as a last resolution if theres no other options.


----------



## TeslaHUN

rolandos582 said:


> Hmm yeah, i have SSDs but i also have a 4TB WD blue for random storage. I could use one of my caselabs hdd brackets as a last resolution if theres no other options.


I always remove HDD cages , since they are airflow killers . I just put my HDD in Alpenföhn Alptunnel or scythe himuro and hide it under PSU cover , or 5,25 slots .No screws just cartboard / foam /rubber under the HDD box.


----------



## whwidjaja

First time doing custom loop.


----------



## rolandos582

whwidjaja said:


> First time doing custom loop.


Not bad! I see you have acoustic foam, do you actually notice improvement from it? For the cost of it, i thought it was only beneficial if you have alot of it in the entire room.

Non the less, looks clean!


----------



## skupples

the acoustic foam i used on my STH10 didn't make much difference... mostly because the sound comes from my fans, n the fans n rad positions on an STH10 make it near impossible to muffle their noise. 

I did line the backdoor & around the window, which cut down audible pump noise at least... n may have reduced some of the noise I can hear from my flex bay radiator? it blows into my case though, so idk. 

it's some hard core stuff. Better stick it on right the first time


----------



## rolandos582

skupples said:


> the acoustic foam i used on my STH10 didn't make much difference... mostly because the sound comes from my fans, n the fans n rad positions on an STH10 make it near impossible to muffle their noise.
> 
> I did line the backdoor & around the window, which cut down audible pump noise at least... n may have reduced some of the noise I can hear from my flex bay radiator? it blows into my case though, so idk.
> 
> it's some hard core stuff. Better stick it on right the first time /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif


I was talking more about the foam on the wall 😂


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## DiGiCiDAL

rolandos582 said:


> I was talking more about the foam on the wall 😂



It depends on the room itself and how reflective it is... if the other walls have bookcases, drapes, a bed, carpets, etc... then treating the 'bounce' wall does have some significant benefits. I assume he was getting some echo from a rear bounce and the foam helped it (although I have no idea).


My office is a perfect square (horrible) and all hard surfaces in every direction - but since it's a leased office I can't really do foam... so I bought 8 2'x4'x2" absorbers and spaced them around the room. Not only does my PC audio sound great, but I no longer hear my voice echo when I'm on the phone or having a discussion with a co-worker.


I used these: Acoustimac DMD242



Not as inexpensive as tacking foam squares for sure, but much easier to move to my next office.


I foamed a previous build as well... but that's a waste of time and effort IMO. However, there's a great solution for that... turn up the volume until it isn't audible any longer.


----------



## rolandos582

DiGiCiDAL said:


> It depends on the room itself and how reflective it is... if the other walls have bookcases, drapes, a bed, carpets, etc... then treating the 'bounce' wall does have some significant benefits. I assume he was getting some echo from a rear bounce and the foam helped it (although I have no idea).
> 
> 
> My office is a perfect square (horrible) and all hard surfaces in every direction - but since it's a leased office I can't really do foam... so I bought 8 2'x4'x2" absorbers and spaced them around the room. Not only does my PC audio sound great, but I no longer hear my voice echo when I'm on the phone or having a discussion with a co-worker.
> 
> 
> I used these: Acoustimac DMD242
> 
> 
> 
> Not as inexpensive as tacking foam squares for sure, but much easier to move to my next office.
> 
> 
> I foamed a previous build as well... but that's a waste of time and effort IMO. However, there's a great solution for that... turn up the volume until it isn't audible any longer.


Hmm I see, yeah my ''gaming room'' is terrible. There's only 1 straight wall and that's directly behind my studio monitors/monitors. The rest of the walls are all tilted. Welcome to the attic ;(
I'm always wondering if foam/absorbers etc will do any benefits. I guess it could. Got any pictures of your setup?


----------



## whwidjaja

rolandos582 said:


> Not bad! I see you have acoustic foam, do you actually notice improvement from it? For the cost of it, i thought it was only beneficial if you have alot of it in the entire room.
> 
> Non the less, looks clean!


sorry for the late reply. oh yes, the improvement is like day and night especially since it is a concrete wall.


----------



## whwidjaja

I spent couple of hours on the weekends to re-do the loop to make it look more symmetrical.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I’m using 240+360rad to cool my [email protected]+MOSFETs + 1080ti temps under load are CPU:55c-58c and GPU:52-55c. 

I’m planning on upgrading to either 3900x or 9900ks depending on which is better gaming, and possibly adding a second 1080ti 

Are my temps going to increase by large margin ? I really don’t want to switch my 240rad for 360 as I don’t like the look of the route I’d have to do for the tubing.


----------



## DarthBaggins

B NEGATIVE said:


>


I can't wait to try out the block line-ups from EK, the new style/appearance just looks so clean and professional.


----------



## bluedevil

DarthBaggins said:


> B NEGATIVE said:
> 
> 
> 
> /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait to try out the block line-ups from EK, the new style/appearance just looks so clean and professional.
Click to expand...

Likewise. 👌


----------



## TeslaHUN

Qu1ckset said:


> I’m using 240+360rad to cool my [email protected]+MOSFETs + 1080ti temps under load are CPU:55c-58c and GPU:52-55c.
> 
> I’m planning on upgrading to either 3900x or 9900ks depending on which is better gaming, and possibly adding a second 1080ti
> 
> Are my temps going to increase by large margin ? I really don’t want to switch my 240rad for 360 as I don’t like the look of the route I’d have to do for the tubing.


Sorry but no way to cool 800W (2x 300W VGA + OC cpu+ mofset) with only 360+240 rad , maybe with 2000rpm fans .


----------



## VeritronX

Qu1ckset said:


> I’m using 240+360rad to cool my [email protected]+MOSFETs + 1080ti temps under load are CPU:55c-58c and GPU:52-55c.
> 
> I’m planning on upgrading to either 3900x or 9900ks depending on which is better gaming, and possibly adding a second 1080ti
> 
> Are my temps going to increase by large margin ? I really don’t want to switch my 240rad for 360 as I don’t like the look of the route I’d have to do for the tubing.


Just changing from an overclocked 4790K with it's mosfets being cooled to an overclocked 3900X without mosfets being cooled should be within +/- 10W and shouldn't make a noticable difference to temps, adding another ~300W videocard would make a huge difference to temps, increasing the water temp delta over ambient by over 60%. Even just getting the 9900KS would bump the temps up by a noticable amount, adding up to 100W more than your current setup if it also has it's mosfets being cooled.


----------



## Qu1ckset

TeslaHUN said:


> Qu1ckset said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iâ€™️m using 240+360rad to cool my [email protected]+MOSFETs + 1080ti temps under load are CPU:55c-58c and GPU:52-55c.
> 
> Iâ€™️m planning on upgrading to either 3900x or 9900ks depending on which is better gaming, and possibly adding a second 1080ti
> 
> Are my temps going to increase by large margin ? I really donâ€™️t want to switch my 240rad for 360 as I donâ€™️t like the look of the route Iâ€™️d have to do for the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry but no way to cool 800W (2x 300W VGA + OC cpu+ mofset) with only 360+240 rad , maybe with 2000rpm fans .
Click to expand...

Wasn’t really including the second videocard as I know that would increase temps by a good amount.


----------



## Qu1ckset

VeritronX said:


> Qu1ckset said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iâ€™️m using 240+360rad to cool my [email protected]+MOSFETs + 1080ti temps under load are CPU:55c-58c and GPU:52-55c.
> 
> Iâ€™️m planning on upgrading to either 3900x or 9900ks depending on which is better gaming, and possibly adding a second 1080ti
> 
> Are my temps going to increase by large margin ? I really donâ€™️t want to switch my 240rad for 360 as I donâ€™️t like the look of the route Iâ€™️d have to do for the tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Just changing from an overclocked 4790K with it's mosfets being cooled to an overclocked 3900X without mosfets being cooled should be within +/- 10W and shouldn't make a noticable difference to temps, adding another ~300W videocard would make a huge difference to temps, increasing the water temp delta over ambient by over 60%. Even just getting the 9900KS would bump the temps up by a noticable amount, adding up to 100W more than your current setup if it also has it's mosfets being cooled.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply , ya I’m going to look into replacing my 240 rad for a 360 rad. 

I wish SLI was more supported!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

rolandos582 said:


> Hmm I see, yeah my ''gaming room'' is terrible. There's only 1 straight wall and that's directly behind my studio monitors/monitors. The rest of the walls are all tilted. Welcome to the attic ;(
> I'm always wondering if foam/absorbers etc will do any benefits. I guess it could. Got any pictures of your setup?



Actually non-parallel surfaces are the best... since they delay reflections enough that your brain can easily filter them out. If you over-damp the room it will sound dead and weird (like cheaper headphones often do). You can always get a cheap curtain - the heavier the better - and hang it on a reflective wall... or an area rug will work too. I usually walk around the room clapping after adding absorption... if it rings, needs more absorption... if it sounds like your hands got really small or far away - you put too much.

I realized looking at those that the ones in the office are 2'x3' not 2'x4' - the ones in the theater are 2x4. Oops.

I don't have a picture of the full set, but I have some previous ones of my home office where I used the same absorbers (last picture was during leak-test... but shows where I added one of the other panels ( finally went with three behind desk and one on the close side wall, two on ceiling, and two on opposing wall):


----------



## rolandos582

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Actually non-parallel surfaces are the best... since they delay reflections enough that your brain can easily filter them out. If you over-damp the room it will sound dead and weird (like cheaper headphones often do). You can always get a cheap curtain - the heavier the better - and hang it on a reflective wall... or an area rug will work too. I usually walk around the room clapping after adding absorption... if it rings, needs more absorption... if it sounds like your hands got really small or far away - you put too much.
> 
> I realized looking at those that the ones in the office are 2'x3' not 2'x4' - the ones in the theater are 2x4. Oops.
> 
> I don't have a picture of the full set, but I have some previous ones of my home office where I used the same absorbers (last picture was during leak-test... but shows where I added one of the other panels ( finally went with three behind desk and one on the close side wall, two on ceiling, and two on opposing wall):


Hahaha pretty big man! I might put some of myself. 

Is anyone of you using demciflex filters here? I use them for my SMA8 but on the bottom radiator the fans are hitting the filter. On higher fan speeds it gets pretty annoying. Anyone has a solution for this? I can't really think of anything. If you spread out the filter really good, it's fine. But it moves and get's lose so over time it will hit the fan again.


----------



## ThrashZone

rolandos582 said:


> Hahaha pretty big man! I might put some of myself.
> 
> Is anyone of you using demciflex filters here? I use them for my SMA8 but on the bottom radiator the fans are hitting the filter. On higher fan speeds it gets pretty annoying. Anyone has a solution for this? I can't really think of anything. If you spread out the filter really good, it's fine. But it moves and get's lose so over time it will hit the fan again.


Hi,
I use a metal grid to keep filter material from getting sucked into fans... 
Lots out there I'm using a metal leaf guard now I was using a pattern metal grid before but switched it to a more symmetrical grid.
They sell per piece too 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/InvisaFlow-Metal-Lock-In-Gutter-Guard-25-per-Carton-6360-25/205207107


----------



## Fluxmaven

DiGiCiDAL said:


> last picture was during leak-test:


Nice build.


----------



## rolandos582

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I use a metal grid to keep filter material from getting sucked into fans...
> Lots out there I'm using a metal leaf guard now I was using a pattern metal grid before but switched it to a more symmetrical grid.
> They sell per piece too
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/InvisaFlow-Metal-Lock-In-Gutter-Guard-25-per-Carton-6360-25/205207107


I see, and you place the metal grid over the filter and that would prevent it? Depending on which one you get, wouldn't it get to close to the fans?


----------



## ThrashZone

rolandos582 said:


> I see, and you place the metal grid over the filter and that would prevent it? Depending on which one you get, wouldn't it get to close to the fans?


Hi,
On my bottom I used cardboard and taped filter material to it seeing the the bottom already has a screen on it 
The metal grid is on my top and front intake filters I haven't done the bottom with it yet low priority the cardboard is working okay I don't have a radiator down there just the psu pulls air in from the bottom.


----------



## rolandos582

ThrashZone said:


> rolandos582 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I see, and you place the metal grid over the filter and that would prevent it? Depending on which one you get, wouldn't it get to close to the fans?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> On my bottom I used cardboard and taped filter material to it seeing the the bottom already has a screen on it
> The metal grid is on my top and front intake filters I haven't done the bottom with it yet low priority the cardboard is working okay I don't have a radiator down there just the psu pulls air in from the bottom.
Click to expand...

I only have this problem on my bottom radiator. The rest are fine. I might have to make the sides more heavy so it pulls the middle straight. Hmm not too sure


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
It's really a sad joke a forum can't deal with a little s when used on mobile device


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It's really a sad joke a forum can't deal with a little s when used on mobile device



Or inline links on a quick reply, or manage inline pictures decently, or...


I get most of the reasons for changing, but honestly it's hard to justify even posting a few comments here now. 

My last build went 'log-less' simply because it's too much of a bother to deal with the buggy site to post anything.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Or inline links on a quick reply, or manage inline pictures decently, or...
> 
> 
> I get most of the reasons for changing, but honestly it's hard to justify even posting a few comments here now.
> 
> My last build went 'log-less' simply because it's too much of a bother to deal with the buggy site to post anything.


+1
OCN is a shadow of what it was....


----------



## IT Diva

B NEGATIVE said:


> +1
> OCN is a shadow of what it was....


 
+2
It got to where there were just wayyyy more negatives to overcome than it was worth . . . 


(sorry B, just couldn't pass up the pun)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

IT Diva said:


> +2
> It got to where there were just wayyyy more negatives to overcome than it was worth . . .
> 
> 
> (sorry B, just couldn't pass up the pun)


XD


----------



## Questors

rolandos582 said:


> Hahaha pretty big man! I might put some of myself.
> 
> Is anyone of you using demciflex filters here? I use them for my SMA8 but on the bottom radiator the fans are hitting the filter. On higher fan speeds it gets pretty annoying. Anyone has a solution for this? I can't really think of anything. If you spread out the filter really good, it's fine. But it moves and get's lose so over time it will hit the fan again.


I use them. I tried them inside the covers on my Merlin ST10 and the two pedestals I use. I didn't have a problem with noise, what I did notice is the fan hubs rub the filter material causing a circular pattern that damages the material. I bought new filters and put them on the outside. I do like form and function, but to me, the filters don't look horrible so they work for me on the outside, function wins the day. 

The one exception is the top cover. I have both the small and 120mm top cover for my Merlin ST10. Currently the smaller is in use with the filter installed inside and it doesn't touch the fan hubs.


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> Hahaha pretty big man! I might put some of myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Is anyone of you using demciflex filters here? I use them for my SMA8 but on the bottom radiator the fans are hitting the filter. On higher fan speeds it gets pretty annoying. Anyone has a solution for this? I can't really think of anything. If you spread out the filter really good, it's fine. But it moves and get's lose so over time it will hit the fan again.




Only real solution is some sort of grill over the fans.


----------



## wermad

Budget upgrade. Idle dropped a bit, though have not run under load (having monitor crashing issues). Waiting on some pwm fan hubs and cables to do some cable management. For now, threw everything in there to do some school work. Spent $70 for two aluminum rads, tube, and some water-wetter.


----------



## rolandos582

Questors said:


> I use them. I tried them inside the covers on my Merlin ST10 and the two pedestals I use. I didn't have a problem with noise, what I did notice is the fan hubs rub the filter material causing a circular pattern that damages the material. I bought new filters and put them on the outside. I do like form and function, but to me, the filters don't look horrible so they work for me on the outside, function wins the day.
> 
> The one exception is the top cover. I have both the small and 120mm top cover for my Merlin ST10. Currently the smaller is in use with the filter installed inside and it doesn't touch the fan hubs.


Yes, I only have it on the bottom of my SMA8. On the front and top isn't any problem. On lower speed it's fine but as soon as the fans start speeding up then you can hear the noice quite badly. I really don't want to put them on the outside because I think it's ruins te clean look.




Shawnb99 said:


> Only real solution is some sort of grill over the fans.


Hmm, do you have an example of that?

Is it being caused by the fans sucking the filter material in or what's the cause here? I just find it strange that it's only on my bottom radiator. Maybe I can place the filter on the other side of the fans. That could fix the issue perhaps.


----------



## TeslaHUN

I would like to see some Thermaltake Core W200 build .If any1 have that monster case , feel free to share 
Im planning to buy one , and put my Mo-ra3 420 rad +psu on the back chamber .Main chamber top and bottom some 420 /560 rad.


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> Yes, I only have it on the bottom of my SMA8. On the front and top isn't any problem. On lower speed it's fine but as soon as the fans start speeding up then you can hear the noice quite badly. I really don't want to put them on the outside because I think it's ruins te clean look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, do you have an example of that?
> 
> 
> 
> Is it being caused by the fans sucking the filter material in or what's the cause here? I just find it strange that it's only on my bottom radiator. Maybe I can place the filter on the other side of the fans. That could fix the issue perhaps.




My experience is it’s from the fans sucking the filter material in. Any type of fan grill should do.


----------



## Barefooter

I finished my *Big Red "Devastator"* build.

Here's a few of the final pictures if you haven't seen them yet.
























































There's a bunch more here *Final Pictures Post #3* if you want to see more.


.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Haven't posted in here a while!

Does anyone have good contacts with Andrew or anyone else at Ice Dragon?

Been speaking with him for a while and then suddenly nothing at all.

Very anxious to get my hands on more of their nano fluid.


----------



## skupples

rolandos582 said:


> Hahaha pretty big man! I might put some of myself.
> 
> Is anyone of you using demciflex filters here? I use them for my SMA8 but on the bottom radiator the fans are hitting the filter. On higher fan speeds it gets pretty annoying. Anyone has a solution for this? I can't really think of anything. If you spread out the filter really good, it's fine. But it moves and get's lose so over time it will hit the fan again.


all but one of my Demcis have failed over time.


----------



## Ceadderman

skupples said:


> all but one of my Demcis have failed over time.


All of mine are still going strong from 2011. Just rinse with cold tap water, dry in dish drainer and slap them back on when dry. Ez Pz. 

I think(cannot say for certain) that they start to break down when you run them through hot water or even warm water. I don't know what the edging is comprised of but that's likely manufactured with warm material and set to dry. Wish there was a "How it's made" video but I understand why there isn't one. :thinking:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

*New Build*

https://valid.x86.fr/r002hu

Build is: i5-9600k
Corsair 900D
Asrock Z390 Taichi
EVGA GTX 1080 Hydo
Corsair RGB DDR4 16gigs

Powertrain
Rosewill Quark 1200w Full Modular PSU


Storage
Seagate 6tb Data Drive
Mushkin M.2. 1TB SSD

Cooling
Bitspower RGB CPU Block
GPU Block built in to GTX 1080
360mm Rad
240mm Rad
Phobya DC Pump
Barrow 200mm Res
AlphaCool 5.25 DC-LT Pump Res Combo

Monsoon Chaingun Compression 3/8OD x 1/2ID
EK duraclear tubing


----------



## Fluxmaven

HardheadedMurphy said:


> https://valid.x86.fr/r002hu
> 
> Build is: i5-9600k
> Corsair 900D
> Asrock Z390 Taichi
> EVGA GTX 1080 Hydo
> Corsair RGB DDR4 16gigs
> 
> Powertrain
> Rosewill Quark 1200w Full Modular PSU
> 
> 
> Storage
> Seagate 6tb Data Drive
> Mushkin M.2. 1TB SSD
> 
> Cooling
> Bitspower RGB CPU Block
> GPU Block built in to GTX 1080
> 360mm Rad
> 240mm Rad
> Phobya DC Pump
> Barrow 200mm Res
> AlphaCool 5.25 DC-LT Pump Res Combo
> 
> Monsoon Chaingun Compression 3/8OD x 1/2ID
> EK duraclear tubing


Soft tubing and cold cathodes... What year is it?  

Looks good aside from the dirty fans. I got tired of buying compressed air, especially after they started adding the nasty bitterants. Have had a datavac for several years now and they make short work of dust.

https://www.newegg.com/white-metrovac-datavac-electric-duster/p/N82E16896367002


----------



## Blze001

Fluxmaven said:


> Soft tubing and cold cathodes... What year is it?


Hey, what's wrong with soft tubing?


----------



## Fluxmaven

Blze001 said:


> Hey, what's wrong with soft tubing?


Nothing wrong with it. I use soft tubing in all of my builds. I just like to poke fun since it seems everyone is doing hard tubing these days.



HardheadedMurphy said:


> Right?
> I work a 70 hour week + grad school. Very little time to devote to hardline right now. Though it is in the cards sometime soon.
> 
> And for the record, I prefer cold cathode uv lighting at the moment. That is subject to change though. ROFLMBO.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk



I actually just ordered a UV cold cathode for my upcoming build since the LED UV strips tend to just be purple LED's and not true UV.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Blze001 said:


> Hey, what's wrong with soft tubing?


Right? 
I work a 70 hour week + grad school. Very little time to devote to hardline right now. Though it is in the cards sometime soon. 

And for the record, I prefer cold cathode uv lighting at the moment. That is subject to change though. ROFLMBO.

Cheers!


Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Fluxmaven said:


> Nothing wrong with it. I use soft tubing in all of my builds. I just like to poke fun since it seems everyone is doing hard tubing these days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually just ordered a UV cold cathode for my upcoming build since the LED UV strips tend to just be purple LED's and not true UV.


Of all the uv lighting options I've reviewed, none so far hold up to CCL

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## Rainmaker91

HardheadedMurphy said:


> Right?
> I work a 70 hour week + grad school. Very little time to devote to hardline right now. Though it is in the cards sometime soon.
> 
> And for the record, I prefer cold cathode uv lighting at the moment. That is subject to change though. ROFLMBO.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


I'm not even finished with my build yet, and I'm already tired of using pipes rather than soft tubing. For somone who tinkers a lot in their computer hardline is more of an obstacle than a benefit. Still, they do look nice though...


----------



## TheNatural

HardheadedMurphy said:


> Right?
> I work a 70 hour week + grad school. Very little time to devote to hardline right now. Though it is in the cards sometime soon.
> 
> *snip*


The rigid tubing does look really nice.. but I hate it every time I want to make a little change to my system. I've done it twice now and I'm thinking about trying the soft tubing out on the next build.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Depending on how bad your OCD is it really isn't much different once you have some practice. I think my first hardline build took me 3 days... my last one (with same number of components) took less than 2 hours. Like anything YMMV - but once you get over the hurdle of thinking in 3d and what order you need to do the bends on a complex segment... it really flies.


Still not as fast as a soft tube obvioulsy... but so much easier for some things - and I think the look and clean airflow paths are worth it.


This was the 'blitz' bend build... not as good as I'd like but close enough. Only one I had to rebend was the short run from GPU to CPU... that's a 3 bend run (2 + offset) in a short length. The others were cake.


----------



## Ceadderman

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Depending on how bad your OCD is it really isn't much different once you have some practice. I think my first hardline build took me 3 days... my last one (with same number of components) took less than 2 hours. Like anything YMMV - but once you get over the hurdle of thinking in 3d and what order you need to do the bends on a complex segment... it really flies.
> 
> 
> Still not as fast as a soft tube obvioulsy... but so much easier for some things - and I think the look and clean airflow paths are worth it.
> 
> 
> This was the 'blitz' bend build... not as good as I'd like but close enough. Only one I had to rebend was the short run from GPU to CPU... that's a 3 bend run (2 + offset) in a short length. The others were cake.


Not a fan of AlphaCool, but that is a pretty clean tubing run. :thumb:

Hopefully my all EK build will be THAT clean. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Thanks.

I'm not a fan either - but I do like to use their radiators. Despite not being the very top in performance, they're very good, and I prefer the lower fin count to aid in general case airflow at lower fan speeds. I also love all the ports... makes the runs easier - although in this case it wouldn't have mattered much - but the bottom drain port is a nice convenience.
Sure they're a pain to flush well enough, and the new logos are an eyesore. But after the nightmares I've had with the EK rads turned me off to them.
On blocks however, it's all EK or Watercool in my builds.


----------



## rolandos582

TheNatural said:


> HardheadedMurphy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Right?
> I work a 70 hour week + grad school. Very little time to devote to hardline right now. Though it is in the cards sometime soon.
> 
> *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> The rigid tubing does look really nice.. but I hate it every time I want to make a little change to my system. I've done it twice now and I'm thinking about trying the soft tubing out on the next build.
Click to expand...

I agree, different block layouts etc so gotta change it all. I run double GPUs now and would have gone for a 2080ti but that means i gotta redo my entire GPU loop and my Caselabs SMA8 would look empty.


----------



## Nighthog

Made some upgrades today with some new parts and rebuilt my loop as I was changing parts anyway.

WC Ryzen 7 3800X with Alphacool.

Changed the waterblock for a Eisblock XPX -with sandblasted plexi look. 
Added a water temperature sensor and ball-valve for easier drainage. 

then I just remodelled the layout as I wasn't really happy how cramped it was before, removed two of the smaller 120 single radiators for now. 

I also bought a waterblock for the memory but found it a hassle to remove the heatspreaders and was worried of breaking them so I'll wait with that for some other time.
Rebuild took the whole day as parts didn't want to fit where I wanted them, had to rethink several times how I would like to have it all together.


----------



## Questors

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Depending on how bad your OCD is it really isn't much different once you have some practice. I think my first hardline build took me 3 days... my last one (with same number of components) took less than 2 hours. Like anything YMMV - but once you get over the hurdle of thinking in 3d and what order you need to do the bends on a complex segment... it really flies.
> 
> 
> Still not as fast as a soft tube obvioulsy... but so much easier for some things - and *I think the look and clean airflow paths are worth it.*
> 
> 
> This was the 'blitz' bend build... not as good as I'd like but close enough. Only one I had to rebend was the short run from GPU to CPU... that's a 3 bend run (2 + offset) in a short length. The others were cake.


The bold - agreed. I like the look of the tubing. It's nice and straight without the OCD mechanical 90° angles that, to me, take away from otherwise nice builds. In other words, I prefer bends in tubing to using fittings at every bend. Nice job. :thumb:



Nighthog said:


> Made some upgrades today with some new parts and rebuilt my loop as I was changing parts anyway.
> 
> WC Ryzen 7 3800X with Alphacool.
> 
> Changed the waterblock for a Eisblock XPX -with sandblasted plexi look.
> Added a water temperature sensor and ball-valve for easier drainage.
> 
> then I just remodelled the layout as I wasn't really happy how cramped it was before, removed two of the smaller 120 single radiators for now.
> 
> I also bought a waterblock for the memory but found it a hassle to remove the heatspreaders and was worried of breaking them so I'll wait with that for some other time.
> Rebuild took the whole day as parts didn't want to fit where I wanted them, had to rethink several times how I would like to have it all together.


I like it. I too find things don't want to fit where I want them to go, as do many of is I suppose. I also find that what I thought was a great idea sometimes turns out to be a :doh: moment and I wonder what was I :thinking: .


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Not the prettiest, but this is my first attempt at running 3/8 soft copper, hand bent ... 30hrs leak test

I'm not quite happy... But it will work till I can get the proper tools and run it in 1/2 OD soft copper hard line.









Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## Nighthog

HardheadedMurphy said:


> Not the prettiest, but this is my first attempt at running 3/8 soft copper, hand bent ... 30hrs leak test
> 
> I'm not quite happy... But it will work till I can get the proper tools and run it in 1/2 OD soft copper hard line.


Aren't there any fittings for regular copper pipes around? It takes it a little away from the looks with those "stock" fittings unless you have everything to match in a industrial/pipe setting. (even the blocks)


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Nighthog said:


> Aren't there any fittings for regular copper pipes around? It takes it a little away from the looks with those "stock" fittings unless you have everything to match in a industrial/pipe setting. (even the blocks)


Smallest I could find on performance-pcs was for 1/2 OD Rigid Compression. 

I don't mind industrial per se. This will have to do for a couple months lol. 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

Rainmaker91 said:


> I'm not even finished with my build yet, and I'm already tired of using pipes rather than soft tubing. For somone who tinkers a lot in their computer hardline is more of an obstacle than a benefit. Still, they do look nice though...


my only problem with soft tube is the evap i suffer in a build the size of sth10, however I'll likely never go hard tube as i'm just not a gentle person. I break glass. OMG the # of bongs i've smashed.


----------



## rolandos582

My work in progress, still gotta drill a hole behind the speaker to run all the cables through to create a wireless look! Im satisfied with the new desk and all the space I have.

And yes, I have a monitor mount but I couldn't put it on the edge of the desk since the space would just be too big. Gotta find a solution!


----------



## Gilles3000

skupples said:


> my only problem with soft tube is the evap i suffer in a build the size of sth10, however I'll likely never go hard tube as i'm just not a gentle person. I break glass. OMG the # of bongs i've smashed.


Not to mention its horribly impractical, unless you like draining and tearing down part of your loop every time you need to change or troubleshoot anything.

I love hard tubing for showcase builds, but for me its not worth it for a loop I actually plan to use long term. Evap is a very minor issue in comparison.


----------



## Nighthog

Thought I would do a quick rotation of the Eisblock XPX CPU-waterblock in my system as the 3800X was running so damn hot with AVX loads when trying to OC.
I had it first in a "goofy" rotation, wanted to try a "regular" rotation on how it's meant to be mounted.

Long story short, it became more of a hassle than I thought. Spilled water everywhere 3 times. First at disassembly and twice when filling it up again. 

The damn GPX SLI connector flew right out of the GPU every time, just PLOP and GUSH water everywhere!

What a damn hassle. Took time to clean up and check parts they weren't soaked down. 

Either way that damn SLI connector went off and not going back in there again. It sits too loose and can't handle the pressure when filling up the loop I think. Water/Air takes the path of least resistance and it just flies off.
I had noticed it sat kinda loose with those double-O-ring connectors but it worked fine the first time around.. But now it was much more loose than before. No way it would stay in place any more.


----------



## jtom320

So this is my new Ryzen build. Well aware the bends suck.

It's been three years since I've done this. Started with acrylic and went through like 12 500mm tubes. Hard no to acrylic.

Back to PETG just to get things running. With all the 90s in here I honestly think I might need a second pump because the flow rate doesn't seem to be that great judging off my little fountain. Anyway when a GPU worth upgrading from my 1080 comes out I may go ahead and get the serial REVO pump top and a second D5.

It's crazy how much difficulty a second bend in one piece of tube adds. My 6700k only had one bend in every tube run and I did it by hand and it came out looking perfect. This made me feel like an old man and took days to even get it in this state. Kind of have to laugh at myself a little because I thought I'd be done and dusted with perfect bends the afternoon I first got back from Microcenter with my 3900.


----------



## Ceadderman

Let me preface this response with: There is no right way or wrong way for tubing other than how you run your tubing.

That said I find these two Cons to be the deciding factor in what I run.

Rigid Con: Replacing parts can and often do require one or two more tubes to be bent. This is specifically for MB, and GPU upgrades. In some respects you can avoid this with a couple of fittings added at key points but if you're a Bend Hound you would need to replace tubing.

Flex Con: 1st and Foremost is Plasticiser. There are few tubing manufacturers that don't use the stuff in vinyl flex tubing. Heat is what activates it and it WILL leech into coolant and cause us Water Cooling Enthusiasts headaches later on down the line after the initial setup process is complete. Flushing every component in the loop to get the stuff out of it. If you add dye to your mix it will color the stuff and you will see that not only will you have to flush one or more Radiators, you will have to clean any microfins cut into your blocks. Not only that but then you have to purchase more tubing to replace the original tubing. Some day they may come up with a way to connect all the fittings that don't require any tubing, but they don't so yeah.

The latter Con is why I chose to go with Acrylic. I won't ever purchase PETG because if I ever want to go with a Premix(EK or otherwise) it may contain Ethylene Glycol and that is a component of the PETG Formula. I don't feel like having my tubes melt from the inside out. No matter how slow a process it may be.

Of course, one could always go with Copper tubing and avoid it altogether. I just may do this in the Winter since this Summer has been fairly hot and Copper would add a little cooling performance. Probably not more than sub 1*c per tube but it does have surface contacted by coolant and with a little airflow should be good for that at least.

Well anydoo... the Enthusiast has to come to the determination, how much time, energy and money they wish to sink into something like fittings, tubing and the work that invariably comes with that choice. Personally I would rather(and have) go with rigid as I can change any tube and it only takes a few minutes, not included drain flush and fill time. Even with that it's still less time and energy than having to Flush and Fill a Flex tubing setup gunked with plasticizer. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## VeritronX

On that note, what's the long term verdict on tubing like zmt? It's supposed to help with that? I have some but haven't really used it.


----------



## KCDC

I liked my glass tube build a lot, but I was stuck with what I had installed, any upgrade required new cuts. Maintenance was also annoying, I found it more difficult to drain, and would get more air locks when refilling. That said, it was the best looking build I ever did and I plan to do another one in a smaller case hopefully using what I have stored away. Spent a lot more on fittings as well. 



Ever since I went zmt, I've never considered any other material. Easiest to work with IMO if you don't mind black tubes. I'm all for ZMT these days, about 2 years so far on the original tubes. Only thing you should do is trim off the old ends when reinstalling as the barbs stretch them out.


edited words


----------



## Nighthog

I haven't noticed any plasticizer residue in my loop with the tubing I've used but that they have stained in various ways. The first Chinese tubing from Alphacool kit was crap and became brown quickly the newer made in Germany was better but there gathers this white "frost" residue on the inside in my loop. I don't really mind as it plays into the loop somewhat. I dig the frosty theme somewhat.
It's easy to scrub off if you would want and it only gathers in the tubes not in the acrylic reservoir or blocks etc. Basically wipe it off with your finger or anything and they look as new.


----------



## Miptzi

All these massive towers here, time to some smaller stuff to fuuuu your fingers trying to get things in place....


----------



## TeslaHUN

Soon i will buy this 400x86mm monsta rad :
https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-.../16418/phobya-xtreme-400-85mm-v.2-full-copper

I want push/pull ofc ,since its so thickkkk.
The problem is , nocua 20cm fans are so expensive.
Is it ok to use different fans on same rad ?
Im planning to use 2x Noctua 20cm pwm on pull, and 2x cheap TT Pure 20 or CM Masterfan20 RGB for push


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If using different fans 
Just pair them up so at least they run the same speeds on push pull.


----------



## TeslaHUN

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If using different fans
> Just pair them up so at least they run the same speeds on push pull.


Nah , it wold look ridiculous to have different fans on same side.


----------



## ThrashZone

TeslaHUN said:


> Nah , it wold look ridiculous to have different fans on same side.


Hi,
Buy more of the same :doh:
Different fans would likely work against each other on push pull.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Miptzi said:


> All these massive towers here, time to some smaller stuff to fuuuu your fingers trying to get things in place....


This was very tight for my sausage fingers lol
Especially the fill line behind the res.









Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

Miptzi said:


> All these massive towers here, time to some smaller stuff to fuuuu your fingers trying to get things in place....


I've been spoiled by Caselabs that I consider my M8 to be to small, I could never imagine working on that. I can just imagine the headaches I'd cause.


----------



## J7SC

HardheadedMurphy said:


> This was very tight for my sausage fingers lol
> Especially the fill line behind the res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk





I can seriously empathize re. 'sausage fingers' ...earlier in the year, I finished a dual GPU NVLink system with copper tubes and cooper elbows for both cards (horizontal tubes below, covered by white foil, given the build-theme)...seemed like a good idea at the time


----------



## Miptzi

Shawnb99 said:


> I've been spoiled by Caselabs that I consider my M8 to be to small, I could never imagine working on that. I can just imagine the headaches I'd cause.


I'd even try a case like my riotoro cr280, but with 2 inches less depth. I'd abandon the reservoir, and put a T junction on the rad, adding a fillport to the top of the case, through the top panel. Narrow, fast and drainable loop, just turning the case upside down for easy maintenance ....


----------



## Gilles3000

Miptzi said:


> I'd even try a case like my riotoro cr280, but with 2 inches less depth. I'd abandon the reservoir, and put a T junction on the rad, adding a fillport to the top of the case, through the top panel. Narrow, fast and drainable loop, just turning the case upside down for easy maintenance ....


As far as small mainstream cases that can fit a 240mm rad go, the CR280 (21.5L) is already about as small as you can get aside from the Raijintek Ophion Evo (19L).

If you want to go even smaller, there are some boutique SFF cases, but those demand substantially more money. Or you'll have to go with something off TaoBao, which has some incredible relatively affordable cases, but actually ordering one involves some hassle and risk.


----------



## Andrew LB

Fluxmaven said:


> Always wanted to do a build in one of these cases. The Mountain Mods ATX tray takes a lot of the work out of the conversion.
> 
> https://www.mountainmods.com/product_info.php?products_id=56



I made one years ago, though it didn't have a custom loop in it. Made my own motherboard tray, custom aluminum backplate, transplanted the power supply guts into the original Mac PSU enclosure, and even added a little board that would play the 'mac chime' when you'd power it on. Ill try and dig up some photos, if not it's collecting dust in my closet. It was a lot of work, but man is that a nicely built aluminum case to work with.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Andrew LB said:


> I made one years ago, though it didn't have a custom loop in it. Made my own motherboard tray, custom aluminum backplate, transplanted the power supply guts into the original Mac PSU enclosure, and even added a little board that would play the 'mac chime' when you'd power it on. Ill try and dig up some photos, if not it's collecting dust in my closet. It was a lot of work, but man is that a nicely built aluminum case to work with.


Sounds like a cool project. I used to have a Mac Pro 1,1. Upgraded it to dual quad xeons for cheap. Was a cool system until the motherboard failed and a replacement would have been more than the machine was worth. Wish I could have saved the case, but I moved shortly after and sold most of my stuff. 

Eventually I will pick one up just to mod. I'm not really into Apple stuff these days, but it looks like tonymacx86 is still a thing, so a hackintosh project might be in the works.


----------



## Miptzi

Gilles3000 said:


> As far as small mainstream cases that can fit a 240mm rad go, the CR280 (21.5L) is already about as small as you can get aside from the Raijintek Ophion Evo (19L).
> 
> If you want to go even smaller, there are some boutique SFF cases, but those demand substantially more money. Or you'll have to go with something off TaoBao, which has some incredible relatively affordable cases, but actually ordering one involves some hassle and risk.


I'd find some of those obscure office cases that are normally smaller, or make some case myself. 

I did some update on the riotoro....


----------



## Gilles3000

Miptzi said:


> I'd find some of those obscure office cases that are normally smaller, or make some case myself.
> 
> I did some update on the riotoro....
> 
> 
> Spoiler


If you do end up finding a sub 20L office case that can fit a 240mm rad, please let me know, that would be a pretty cool find.

The update looks great btw, especially the fan controller.


----------



## Inglewood78

Now to leak test.


----------



## dwolvin

Is that split going to the CPU on one branch and a radiator on the other?


----------



## Inglewood78

dwolvin said:


> Is that split going to the CPU on one branch and a radiator on the other?


There are 2 outflows from the res, one to the gpu, the other to the cpu. The flows combine and go to the rad, then back to the res.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Moved from soft tubing to 14mm PETG when I upgraded my CPU. My first attempt at rigid. I'm not sure what lighting colors I'm going to go with yet.


----------



## rolandos582

japanesegorilla said:


> Moved from soft tubing to 14mm PETG when I upgraded my CPU. My first attempt at rigid. I'm not sure what lighting colors I'm going to go with yet.


The white is much better! Thats what i use, makes the hardware and tubing pop out more


----------



## Mektor

My most recent build for gaming.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Inglewood78 said:


> There are 2 outflows from the res, one to the gpu, the other to the cpu. The flows combine and go to the rad, then back to the res.



Are there two pumps or is the flow from one pump split to the GPU and CPU lanes? Never seen that case/pump-res-unit before... looks nice but it's definitely confusing at first glance.


----------



## Fluxmaven

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Are there two pumps or is the flow from one pump split to the GPU and CPU lanes? Never seen that case/pump-res-unit before... looks nice but it's definitely confusing at first glance.


There are 2 pumps but they are in series. The flow out of the res/distribution plate is split, goes to the GPU and CPU separately, then rejoins at the Y connector to go to the radiator and then back to the res.


----------



## Inglewood78

Finally Done.

9900K delidded
MSI Z390m Gaming Edge
Corsair Dominator Platinums ROG 32gb 3200
EVGA 2080TI Hydrocopper
Corsair 1200 AXi
Barrow fittings and tubing
Maingear F131 with Apex Res
Heatkiller IV CPU block


----------



## Inglewood78

double post


----------



## Barefooter

Inglewood78 said:


> Finally Done.
> 
> 9900K delidded
> MSI Z390m Gaming Edge
> Corsair Dominator Platinums ROG 32gb 3200
> EVGA 2080TI Hydrocopper
> Corsair 1200 AXi
> Barrow fittings and tubing
> Maingear F131 with Apex Res
> Heatkiller IV CPU block


Looks awesome and very unique :thumb:


----------



## ratchet4234

First water cooling setup

got a few cringe hose clamps over what are meant to be compression fittings on the top rad because i got the rad second hand with some fans and the compression fittings that came with where a tad smaller so hose clamps where the solution 

Also the big thick 240 EK rad had to be mounted more to the left to clear the ram but i got it to fit and it looks good still from the side view. 

I started with a 120 Thermaltake Pacific 120 mm rad watercooling kit and added the 240mm rad.


----------



## Nighthog

Inglewood78 said:


> Finally Done.
> 
> 9900K delidded
> MSI Z390m Gaming Edge
> Corsair Dominator Platinums ROG 32gb 3200
> EVGA 2080TI Hydrocopper
> Corsair 1200 AXi
> Barrow fittings and tubing
> Maingear F131 with Apex Res
> Heatkiller IV CPU block


Looks great, great work on that one.


----------



## bintang1180

try new things with old material





Maximus VIII Formula 
i7 6700K Delid
Avexir 32GB ROG TESLA
Seasonic P1000 Platinum
Zotac GTX 1080
Samsung M2 960 EVO 500GB 
Team L3 SSD 240GB
Thermaltake Core P3

Liquid System Part 
WB CPU Thermaltake 
WB VGA Thermaltake
Radiator 360 EKWB
D5 Thermaltake Pump 
Fitting, Drainn System Combination Part Thermaltake,EKWB,Bitspower
Tube 5/8 16mm
EKWB Coolant


----------



## tubbed

#Repost from SFF in the Shift Evolv forum... ongoing project


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Does anyone know of a place here in Southern California that sells rigid tubing? ...I need to get a few sticks of E22, and maybe a few other items. Fry's has a few water cooling items, but not the 12mm/10mm diameter I need... Thanks.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ProfeZZor X said:


> Does anyone know of a place here in Southern California that sells rigid tubing? ...I need to get a few sticks of E22, and maybe a few other items. Fry's has a few water cooling items, but not the 12mm/10mm diameter I need... Thanks.



Micro Center?
1100 East Edinger Avenue
Tustin, CA 92780


----------



## KCDC

ProfeZZor X said:


> Does anyone know of a place here in Southern California that sells rigid tubing? ...I need to get a few sticks of E22, and maybe a few other items. Fry's has a few water cooling items, but not the 12mm/10mm diameter I need... Thanks.


As stated above, MicroCenter is your best bet. I don't trust Fry's, you never know if you're getting open box or not, or something's broken, or it's the wrong item in the box, all of which has happened to me. I've returned at least 60% of the stuff I get from there. Microcenter is my favorite go-to for emergency items, and if you order online and select in-store pickup, you don't have to wait in the checkout line. In and out in 10 minutes. Wish it was closer and I'd probably use it more often. They have a pretty impressive selection for watercooling stuff.


----------



## Zamoldac

Finished adding the 5700XT into the loop, decided to also change the pump and got a EK DDC 3.1 to replace the old ultra, only lasted a few days and it died. Now waiting for a 3.2 model as a replacement.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Here is my new build :
Front rad 420x45 p/p NF A14
Top rad 540x45 3x Silverstone AP181


----------



## Sir Beregond

KCDC said:


> They have a pretty impressive selection for watercooling stuff.


I was surprised. I hadn't been to my local MC in a while. I needed a hard drive and while I was there, I perused through the other aisles. I think I could get literally everything I needed there for watercooling except maybe GPU block and maybe certain colors of fittings. But otherwise, looked like they had everything. Extensive fittings, hard and soft tubing, CPU blocks, radiators, reservoirs, etc.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

KCDC said:


> As stated above, MicroCenter is your best bet. I don't trust Fry's, you never know if you're getting open box or not, or something's broken, or it's the wrong item in the box, all of which has happened to me. I've returned at least 60% of the stuff I get from there. Microcenter is my favorite go-to for emergency items, and if you order online and select in-store pickup, you don't have to wait in the checkout line. In and out in 10 minutes. Wish it was closer and I'd probably use it more often. They have a pretty impressive selection for watercooling stuff.


Unfortunately, I live in the San Fernando Valley, so it's almost a 100 mile one way trip for me. I'll just make sure I do other things out that way. Orange County use to be my old stomping grounds.


----------



## KCDC

ProfeZZor X said:


> Unfortunately, I live in the San Fernando Valley, so it's almost a 100 mile one way trip for me. I'll just make sure I do other things out that way. Orange County use to be my old stomping grounds.


Yeah, it sucks there isn't one closer to us.. It's a 2 hour round trip for me in normal traffic. Came in handy when I learned about the effects of isopropyl on my EK acrylic res tube back when I first got into this. You only do that once.


----------



## ThrashZone

KCDC said:


> As stated above, MicroCenter is your best bet.* I don't trust Fry's, you never know if you're getting open box or not*, or something's broken, or it's the wrong item in the box, all of which has happened to me. I've returned at least 60% of the stuff I get from there. Microcenter is my favorite go-to for emergency items, and if you order online and select in-store pickup, you don't have to wait in the checkout line. In and out in 10 minutes. Wish it was closer and I'd probably use it more often. They have a pretty impressive selection for watercooling stuff.


Hi,
Boom no doubt Fry's is crooked as they come.


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Boom no doubt Fry's is crooked as they come.



It's like their inventory is off of back-lot trucks or something. Even stuff in it's original wrapping has come up broken or damaged somehow. Last time I gave them a chance was for an Asus keyboard, original packaging and wrapped, but once I plugged it in the keys didn't work regardless of what I did. After that I swore never to go again. That's how it is in the SoCal stores at least. The stores are fun-looking at least.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

KCDC said:


> It's like their inventory is off of back-lot trucks or something. Even stuff in it's original wrapping has come up broken or damaged somehow. Last time I gave them a chance was for an Asus keyboard, original packaging and wrapped, but once I plugged it in the keys didn't work regardless of what I did. After that I swore never to go again. That's how it is in the SoCal stores at least. The stores are fun-looking at least.


I went to the local one in my area yesterday looking for a 3D Blu-ray, and the merchandise in the store as a whole looked thinned out, as if they were going out of business (Woodland Hills location). Not sure why, but online sales from other retail giants and Amazon might have something to do with it.


----------



## KCDC

Been trying to post my new build, but getting Database error on this thread again..... I've learned to copy pasta lately with OCN



EDIT: My original post: Got my new main PSU cables today from Mainframe Customs. Perfectly done. Still messing with the GPU layouts, but I am currently pleased with what I have that I'd like to show. Also spent an hour or so cleaning the back spaghetti. Made a new Rig Build if anyone wants to give me a pointer or two. Lots of cables I'm dealing with! My desk cabling is next, no need to give me crap for that yet


----------



## bintang1180

Just finished antec cube (razer edition) watercooling


----------



## Joossens

Completed over a year ago, pics are long overdue...
Alas there's a led that didn't even survived that long :-(

It's my first hardline loop, an all glass build 
It is also the first time I modded a case (corsair carbide air 540)

Hope you guys like it!

cheers,
Jo


----------



## snef

Hi everyone

long time i post something on OCN

i just finish a build for Asus ROG for the PNK LTD accessories 

the first one is named "Fleurs" and this one will be my fife's gaming pc


----------



## J7SC

I posted this at the Core P5 thread as well... latest vid by Declassified Systems, which/who has done various other TT Core P5 (like this build) and other TT Core cases that are highly unique...


----------



## MrGrievous

Hello, I have a quick question, do monoblocks cool any less then their dedicated counterparts? Also if the VRM on the mobo stay cool does that mean the board will generally last longer?


----------



## Ceadderman

MrGrievous said:


> Hello, I have a quick question, do monoblocks cool any less then their dedicated counterparts? Also if the VRM on the mobo stay cool does that mean the board will generally last longer?


No they don't cool any less, but they do add a touch more heat to the loop as you're cooling Mosfets and VRMs which put off a tad bit of heat.

Monoblocks aren't a necessity as most high end Motherboards come with quality Mosfets and VRMs, but if you're not blowing air over the socket then they help. It's much like RAM. You don't need to watercool them except in situations where airflow is minimal. Such as a O11 Dynamic with two 360s' and no extra fan blowing across/ or with a Horizontal GPU in the way of bottom mounted case fans. So a Monoblock would keep things cool in that kind of setup.

Hope I made this clear enough? The coolant temp stabilizes over a short period of time and heat is expelled at the Radiator. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## MrGrievous

Ceadderman said:


> No they don't cool any less, but they do add a touch more heat to the loop as you're cooling Mosfets and VRMs which put off a tad bit of heat.
> 
> Monoblocks aren't a necessity as most high end Motherboards come with quality Mosfets and VRMs, but if you're not blowing air over the socket then they help. It's much like RAM. You don't need to watercool them except in situations where airflow is minimal. Such as a O11 Dynamic with two 360s' and no extra fan blowing across/ or with a Horizontal GPU in the way of bottom mounted case fans. So a Monoblock would keep things cool in that kind of setup.
> 
> Hope I made this clear enough? The coolant temp stabilizes over a short period of time and heat is expelled at the Radiator.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Thank you very much for chiming in! It just so happens that I will be getting the 011 Dynamic later this year (unless subject to change). Makes perfect sense that more heat will be added into the loop with addition cooling to other components, my mind is made up and will be getting the monoblock after all as the mobo I have doesnt have the best VRMs and the heatsink doesnt have the most surface area either.


----------



## Ceadderman

MrGrievous said:


> Thank you very much for chiming in! It just so happens that I will be getting the 011 Dynamic later this year (unless subject to change). Makes perfect sense that more heat will be added into the loop with addition cooling to other components, my mind is made up and will be getting the monoblock after all as the mobo I have doesnt have the best VRMs and the heatsink doesnt have the most surface area either.


Makes so much sense I got a CVIIHero Block knowing that I am going to end up in an O11 XL. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## TeslaHUN

Joossens said:


> Completed over a year ago, pics are long overdue...
> Alas there's a led that didn't even survived that long :-(
> 
> It's my first hardline loop, an all glass build
> It is also the first time I modded a case (corsair carbide air 540)
> 
> Hope you guys like it!
> 
> cheers,
> Jo


This looks awesome !
Question :
All radiator fans are intake !? And 0 exhaust fan? is that a good idea ?


----------



## 414347

snef said:


> Hi everyone
> 
> long time i post something on OCN
> 
> i just finish a build for Asus ROG for the PNK LTD accessories
> 
> the first one is named "Fleurs" and this one will be my fife's gaming pc


I remember snef's builds from whey back when CL was in its full glory. Your builds were always so clean, perfectly matched components and this one is no exception.


----------



## Ironsmack

TeslaHUN said:


> This looks awesome !
> Question :
> All radiator fans are intake !? And 0 exhaust fan? is that a good idea ?



There's 2 bigger fans exhausting air on the bottom.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

KCDC said:


> As stated above, MicroCenter is your best bet. I don't trust Fry's, you never know if you're getting open box or not, or something's broken, or it's the wrong item in the box, all of which has happened to me. I've returned at least 60% of the stuff I get from there. Microcenter is my favorite go-to for emergency items, and if you order online and select in-store pickup, you don't have to wait in the checkout line. In and out in 10 minutes. Wish it was closer and I'd probably use it more often. They have a pretty impressive selection for watercooling stuff.


I ended up going to Micro Center yesterday, and they had some pretty impressive PC merchandise. Unfortunately they didn't have everything I needed, but at least I know I don't have to place an order half way across the country and wait 7 to 10 days for it to arrive. The amount of cases they sell rivals that of Fry's Electronics, but with several water cooling exotic brands, Fry's wouldn't normally carry. Their monitor section is like going to Best buy, and they have several grocery store isles of graphic cards and mother boards to choose from... They were lacking on water cooling fittings and cable management supplies - two items I needed, but overall definitely worth the trip.


----------



## KCDC

ProfeZZor X said:


> I ended up going to Micro Center yesterday, and they had some pretty impressive PC merchandise. Unfortunately they didn't have everything I needed, but at least I know I don't have to place an order half way across the country and wait 7 to 10 days for it to arrive. The amount of cases they sell rivals that of Fry's Electronics, but with several water cooling exotic brands, Fry's wouldn't normally carry. Their monitor section is like going to Best buy, and they have several grocery store isles of graphic cards and mother boards to choose from... They were lacking on water cooling fittings and cable management supplies - two items I needed, but overall definitely worth the trip.



I know their an electronics store but I'm just surprised a brick/mortar would even consider stocking specialty items like watercooling stuff. Pretty easy to start walking around and end up leaving with more items than you planned on spending! It's another reason why I do the online order, then bee-line to the "internet order" checkout desk so as not to even tempt myself with their various goodies. And unlike they Fry's around here, the staff is nicer and seems more knowledgeable from my experiences.


----------



## Andrew LB

ProfeZZor X said:


> Does anyone know of a place here in Southern California that sells rigid tubing? ...I need to get a few sticks of E22, and maybe a few other items. Fry's has a few water cooling items, but not the 12mm/10mm diameter I need... Thanks.



You should be able to get tubing from the mother of all parts suppliers, McMaster-Carr. They're in the City of Industry. 



McMaster.com 



/edit 



I checked my few year old print catalog and they have many sizes of PETG and Acrylic tubing. You should see this thing, its about 5,000 pages, weighs about 10lbs, and has 600,000 products. Their warehouse looks like the scene at the end of 'Raiders of the lost Ark' its so big. And before you ask, no... you can't go explore the place. They do have a will-call to pickup orders from tho.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Andrew LB said:


> You should be able to get tubing from the mother of all parts suppliers, McMaster-Carr. They're in the City of Industry. McMaster.com
> /edit
> I checked my few year old print catalog and they have many sizes of PETG and Acrylic tubing. You should see this thing, its about 5,000 pages, weighs about 10lbs, and has 600,000 products. Their warehouse looks like the scene at the end of 'Raiders of the lost Ark' its so big. And before you ask, no... you can't go explore the place. They do have a will-call to pickup orders from tho.


That website looks more like its for home and commercial repair, instead of PC water cooling materials. But I think I see your point on the PETG tubing. I ended up at Micro Center to get just that. The PETG... Because that's all they had available on my list of things to get. It's definitely a place you'd want to bring a $1000 to for side spending.


----------



## kroaton

kroaton said:


> Just mounted the new RGB addressable lighting, very satisfied now !
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/hwcUV6og5dY



New video with new PUMP, from EK pump 250l/h to Barrow RGB 960L/H and new mouse


----------



## Ironsmack

Upgraded to X399 a few weeks ago.

Im redoing the res backplate to an aluminum sheet or steel + moving to 16mm fittings/tubing, adding combs in the next 2 months or so.


----------



## Juthos

Sorry double


----------



## Juthos




----------



## CptAsian

Juthos said:


> Spoiler



Looks fantastic! TJ cases are always great to see, real classics.


----------



## Fluxmaven

That's an interesting GPU block.


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded, Interesting block. Who made it?


----------



## looniam

Fluxmaven said:


> That's an interesting GPU block.





dwolvin said:


> Seconded, Interesting block. Who made it?


https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=7237


----------



## ProfeZZor X

It's been a few years since my last build, so I'm keeping it simple this time around.


----------



## nycgtr




----------



## mattxx88

Juthos said:


>


che vecchia gloria hai spolverato! bellissimo


----------



## Barefooter

nycgtr said:


> https://youtu.be/2RDSUF5n3UY


Love the mixture of blue and chrome tubing and fittings :thumb:

REP+ for great work!


----------



## ProfeZZor X




----------



## Juthos

CptAsian said:


> Looks fantastic! TJ cases are always great to see, real classics.


Thanks. 



Fluxmaven said:


> That's an interesting GPU block.


oh yes



mattxx88 said:


> che vecchia gloria hai spolverato! bellissimo


Grazie.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Soon i have to build a WC system to my friend ,but his case isnt too big ( CM h500p mesh )
I think this alphacool set is ideal :
https://www.aquatuning.de/water-coo...m-gaming-copper-30-3x120mm-complete-kit?c=484
I will order a 240rad too
So the question is . that little DDC310pump (200l/h max flow rate ) could be enough for cpu+vga+2 radiator ?


----------



## timerwin63

TeslaHUN said:


> Soon i have to build a WC system to my friend ,but his case isnt too big ( CM h500p mesh )
> I think this alphacool set is ideal :
> https://www.aquatuning.de/water-coo...m-gaming-copper-30-3x120mm-complete-kit?c=484
> I will order a 240rad too
> So the question is . that little DDC310pump (200l/h max flow rate ) could be enough for cpu+vga+2 radiator ?


Why not just get a standard D5? It'll be a tad quieter due to the larger size and H500P has more than enough space for a full-size loop and pump.


----------



## TeslaHUN

timerwin63 said:


> Why not just get a standard D5? It'll be a tad quieter due to the larger size and H500P has more than enough space for a full-size loop and pump.


I could only buy Alphacool VPP755 + 250ml res(Eisbecher) combo in Aquatuning.de , and there is no room in H500p for such a tall res, would be impossible to fill up . I dont wanna install fill port on the top of the res.


----------



## H2OMachine

Here's my 900D case 5.2ghz, still have a thing or two to button up to finish the built in 7in screen in the front


----------



## H2OMachine

Little cable porn


----------



## TeslaHUN

H2OMachine said:


> Here's my 900D case 5.2ghz, still have a thing or two to button up to finish the built in 7in screen in the front


Very cool looking system, btw its not 900D case ( Corsair ) , u have Tower900 (TT)


----------



## Blze001

H2OMachine said:


> Little cable porn


That's a lot of rad surface area


----------



## chibi

H2OMachine said:


> Little cable porn



What case is that?


----------



## Alastair

Guys just a quickie. Need a bit of input.

I have my PC cooled by a 360mm EK PE360 and a 280mm EK CE280 inside my Phantom 820. That cools my FX-8370 currently at 5050MHz at 1.535-1.55v and my single Vega 64 at 1620MHz / 1100MHz stock volts and +50% power. I have a D5 pump on an XSPC D5 bay Res combo, raystorm cpu block and Barrow full cover Vega 64 block all soft tubing 1/2" ID/ 3/4" OD. 

I live in South Africa. And we are coming into summer soon Currently 35C days are easy and we are still in Spring. My ambients usually sit around 25c-28c indoors.

But playing Ark today and I saw my gpu Temps hitting 60c. Which to me is very high for a custom loop. Flow in the loop looks good. My block is transparent so no bubbles there. I'm struggling to find out why it's so hot. I'm pretty sure between cpu and GPU I'm only trying to cool around 600 watts.

I'm trying to figure out why my Temps are so high? Is it airflow? Is it just my ambients? I have a thermal probe that sits just in front of my HDD cage. It records a mix of the intake air and the warm air being dumped into the case by the bottom 280mm. I call this my Internal Case Temp or ICT probe. It will reach 30C-33C during gaming. Could that warm case temp be causing my issues? 

My airflow is set up thus. The 280 draws from the bottom of the case with 4x ML140s in P/P. I have a 200mm CM Force 200 on the front as intake. I have a ML140 on the swing mount just in front of the HDD cages aiming up towards the rear exhaust which is also an ML140. And then 360mm draws air from inside the case and dumps it out the top using 6x CM Jetflo 120s also in P/P. I also have a xtraflo slim 120mm on the back side panel that blows air onto the back of the motherboard to help cool VRMs and cpu socket.

I am planning on getting an AC just to help cool the house down. Will dropping ambients help a bit?


----------



## TeslaHUN

chibi said:


> What case is that?


Thermaltake Tower900 , the best case for watercooling .


----------



## ThrashZone

TeslaHUN said:


> Thermaltake Tower900 , the best case for watercooling .


Hi,
More commonly known as thermalFake.


----------



## 414347

TeslaHUN said:


> Thermaltake Tower900 , the best case for watercooling .


Wow! you couldn't be more wrong dude, Its the worse case you can use


----------



## TeslaHUN

NewUser16 said:


> Wow! you couldn't be more wrong dude, Its the worse case you can use


Clearly u never had one , i did . 
I understand u protect ur caselabs case,u spent a fortune to buy one after all .But fot 99% of ppl ;Tower900 is the ultimate overkill WC case (2x560 rad ) with 3 T.Glass side panel(not with easy to scratch plexi panel like in Caselabs) and much much cheaper price tag.


----------



## 414347

TeslaHUN said:


> Clearly u never had one , i did .
> I understand u protect ur caselabs case,u spent a fortune to buy one after all .But fot 99% of ppl ;Tower900 is the ultimate overkill WC case (2x560 rad ) with 3 T.Glass side panel(not with easy to scratch plexi panel like in Caselabs) and much much cheaper price tag.


Caselabs wasn't perfect. TT is pure cheap product and I'm not only referring to their cases but everything they make and it's not only my opinion. 
I owned PSU.......garbage, my nephew owned case and few fans...garbage. 

For TT its quantity not quality, sell, sorry wrong order, actually steal first, then copy it, then sell it and customers! well who cares about them, we just milk them for every penny we can but what would any one you expect from Thermalfake.

Enjoy it


----------



## TeslaHUN

NewUser16 said:


> Caselabs wasn't perfect. TT is pure cheap product and I'm not only referring to their cases but everything they make and it's not only my opinion.
> I owned PSU.......garbage, my nephew owned case and few fans...garbage.
> 
> For TT its quantity not quality, sell, sorry wrong order, actually steal first, then copy it, then sell it and customers! well who cares about them, we just milk them for every penny we can but what would any one you expect from Thermalfake.
> 
> Enjoy it


I never had any quality problems with my TT parts , and i have/had plenty . 
-Cases : Core X9 / Tower 900 / Core W100
-fans : Riing 140mm white led and 120mm rgb
-TT Pacific TF1 flow/temp sensor
-PSU in my parents system : TT Berlin 630W (4years old already )


For me Corsair fans are totally garbage(except ML series) ,and still many ppl using them


----------



## 414347

Hey! we all have quality standards.

I won't deny, as it seem obvious I have very much dislike for TT I would not get anything of theirs even if was 90% OFF.

They are not innovative company, they live of other companies hard work and still from them e.g. Fractal, Caselabs, Cooler Master and more, pretty much all companies you name it, that's why their products are cheap because they didn't design them to begin with, you want to support that, knock yourself out


----------



## IT Diva

NewUser16 said:


> Caselabs wasn't perfect. TT is pure cheap product and I'm not only referring to their cases but everything they make and it's not only my opinion.
> I owned PSU.......garbage, my nephew owned case and few fans...garbage.
> 
> For TT its quantity not quality, sell, sorry wrong order, actually steal first, then copy it, then sell it and customers! well who cares about them, we just milk them for every penny we can but what would any one you expect from Thermalfake.
> 
> Enjoy it


 

I mostly just follow this thread along quietly these days, but as some one with both 7 or 8 CLs and half a dozen TTs, I can assure you that you pretty much get what you pay for. TT made cases for the masses wayyy before CL ever tried to make something much smaller than a dorm fridge.


TT's bigger offerings gave a lot of folks an opportunity to work into serious water cooling rigs on relatively modest budgets, CL's downsized offerings before its demise speak to its recognition of the need to deliver lower cost product to a wider audience. 




Trying to re-litigate the TT/CL war from when the W200 came out, doesn't make one appear wiser, just fanboi.


----------



## ThrashZone

TeslaHUN said:


> I never had any quality problems with my TT parts , and i have/had plenty .
> Cases : Core X9 / Tower 900 / Core W100
> fans : Riing 140mm white led and 120mm rgb
> PSU in my parents system : TT Berlin 630W (4years old already )
> 
> *For me Corsair fans are totally garbage*(except ML series) ,and still many ppl using them


Hi,
Didn't stop thermalfake from coping D750 garbage design lol :thumb:
Case is a case frankly but I'd never buy one of theirs.

Tried an clc/ aio it was complete garbage, software was a joke returned for refund the next day.


----------



## BeeDeeEff

First water cooled build, upgraded from Haswell to Ryzen 7 3800X (may get the 16 core soon).

Heatkiller AM4 cpu block
Radeon VII with Phanteks Glacier Block
Gigabyte X570 Master
Thermaltake P5 Case

I was aiming for low maintenance and quiet running, with decent cooling. EK ZMT for the soft tube, Mayhems XT-1 Nuke in the fluid, extra thic 420mm rad

Full list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sMGGXv (plus or minus some fittings)


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

*First acrylic bend*

My first acrylic bend. It seems I spent an eternity over the heat gun at 500F. Water boiled for a few minutes before the tube started to give in, and it was painful to touch. The bend ended up a little flat on top, probably not enough length heated, but looks decent. Overall, I feel good about it.


----------



## Balsagna

NewUser16 said:


> Hey! we all have quality standards.
> 
> I won't deny, as it seem obvious I have very much dislike for TT I would not get anything of theirs even if was 90% OFF.
> 
> They are not innovative company, they live of other companies hard work and still from them e.g. Fractal, Caselabs, Cooler Master and more, pretty much all companies you name it, that's why their products are cheap because they didn't design them to begin with, you want to support that, knock yourself out


Their C-pro fittings are kind of revolutionary. Same with the Tower they have. Also, they were one of the first to introduce the RGB fan settings with the Trio's.

Let's be real. Everyone is just re-inventing the wheel. All of the companies have a lack of ingenuity and they end up just ripping each other all off.
If you have a problem with TT PSU's, well. They're probably not the manufacturer and it's probably the same junk that's in almost 80% of the consumer market because they all get outsourced anyways.

I'm not biased towards any one company. I wouldn't personally pick TT stuff because they aren't of the best quality, not the cheapest, not the most expensive. They're decent across the board.
Why buy any Bitspower fittings when you can pick up Bykski or Barrowch which are essentially just sister companies for example.

TL;DR - nothing wrong with almost any company now-a-days. Pick what aesthetically works for you and fits your budget because honestly, most products are just getting sourced from other companies anymore.


----------



## jvillaveces

Balsagna said:


> ... Let's be real. Everyone is just re-inventing the wheel. All of the companies have a lack of ingenuity and they end up just ripping each other all off.
> 
> ... Why buy any Bitspower fittings when you can pick up Bykski or Barrowch which are essentially just sister companies for example.
> 
> TL;DR - nothing wrong with almost any company now-a-days. Pick what aesthetically works for you and fits your budget because honestly, most products are just getting sourced from other companies anymore.


- AFAIK Bitspower, EK and Watercool, to name just a few, do their own manufacturing
- Neither Bykski nor Barrow are "sister companies" of Bitspower, even if they offer products that look similar at a lower price. As to the quality, you get what you pay for. As for supporting the ripoff artist instead of the creator, we each live by our own set of principles.
- Outsourcing production is not wrong or reproachable. Rebranding/rebadging is legally and morally acceptable because the creator/manufacturer gets compensated. Using other people's intellectual property without paying for it is the hallmark of a scumbag. I refuse to buy TT products because I don't want my money going to pirates, even if their targets have no legal recourse against them.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Is it normal that it takes me 40 minutes to make a single bend in acrylic?


----------



## taowulf

KYKYLLIKA said:


> Is it normal that it takes me 40 minutes to make a single bend in acrylic?


Take your time, make sure it won't resist the bend, otherwise your bends will be fugly. My first set was all kinds of ugly, my redo a couple of months ago was so much better.

It it takes 40 minutes though, you might try a higher temp on your heatgun. 

Took me forever to edit this, but I took a look at your previous post with the pic you took. That picture looks fine. When you bend any material under either heat or stress, the corner will deform a little. You get that slight flatness at the back of the bend, but as long as you don't have bulges at the sides or folds on the inner radius, it is a good bend. Keep doing what you are doing, and seeing the water you use to lubricate the insert boiling is a good indication you are getting close to bending time. 

And yeah, I started with acrylic too. Apparently PETG is easier, shame on us, eh?


----------



## J7SC

BeeDeeEff said:


> First water cooled build, upgraded from Haswell to Ryzen 7 3800X (may get the 16 core soon).
> 
> Heatkiller AM4 cpu block
> Radeon VII with Phanteks Glacier Block
> Gigabyte X570 Master
> Thermaltake P5 Case
> 
> I was aiming for low maintenance and quiet running, with decent cooling. EK ZMT for the soft tube, Mayhems XT-1 Nuke in the fluid, extra thic 420mm rad
> 
> Full list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sMGGXv (plus or minus some fittings)


 
That looks like a nice clean and quiet build, what with 140mm fans and extra thick 420mm rad....also nice that you didn't go overboard with RGB fans and strips everywhere. Btw, I really like the TT Core P5 for aesthetic as well as air-flow reasons, not too mention more flexibility for customization. I have had my Core P5 for about a year, with zero problems.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

taowulf said:


> Take your time, make sure it won't resist the bend, otherwise your bends will be fugly. My first set was all kinds of ugly, my redo a couple of months ago was so much better.
> 
> It it takes 40 minutes though, you might try a higher temp on your heatgun.
> 
> Took me forever to edit this, but I took a look at your previous post with the pic you took. That picture looks fine. When you bend any material under either heat or stress, the corner will deform a little. You get that slight flatness at the back of the bend, but as long as you don't have bulges at the sides or folds on the inner radius, it is a good bend. Keep doing what you are doing, and seeing the water you use to lubricate the insert boiling is a good indication you are getting close to bending time.
> 
> And yeah, I started with acrylic too. Apparently PETG is easier, shame on us, eh?




Thanks, I'll keep on it. I decided specifically against PETG because acrylic has more clarity. I guess it's also tougher working with.


----------



## PCSarge

*ill just toss this up*

Hey guys, i havent been around in a while. busy life the last few months, figured id throw up an updated picture of my sig rig. its come a long way since i was last on.

Bear in mind this is an ITX build, i did it as cleanly as possible


----------



## nycgtr

Balsagna said:


> Their C-pro fittings are kind of revolutionary. Same with the Tower they have. Also, they were one of the first to introduce the RGB fan settings with the Trio's.
> 
> Let's be real. Everyone is just re-inventing the wheel. All of the companies have a lack of ingenuity and they end up just ripping each other all off.
> If you have a problem with TT PSU's, well. They're probably not the manufacturer and it's probably the same junk that's in almost 80% of the consumer market because they all get outsourced anyways.
> 
> I'm not biased towards any one company. I wouldn't personally pick TT stuff because they aren't of the best quality, not the cheapest, not the most expensive. They're decent across the board.
> Why buy any Bitspower fittings when you can pick up Bykski or Barrowch which are essentially just sister companies for example.
> 
> TL;DR - nothing wrong with almost any company now-a-days. Pick what aesthetically works for you and fits your budget because honestly, most products are just getting sourced from other companies anymore.


Barrow, bitspower, byksi are not related to each other. In terms of quality there are differences between the 3. I have over 200 fittings at least from each. Bitspower fittings have the best quality and finish out of the 3. Barrow is very close in terms of weight and feel, but the finish quality and attention to detail is not at bitspower levels with fittings. In terms of blocks it's not even close. Bykski fittings will feel the cheapest out of all of these, and bykski often uses aluminum parts where it can, for example the collars of the byski fittings are often alumninum. BP fittings have a premium, but you do get what you pay for. In China Barrow fittings are much cheaper than they are here, and BP fittings cost more in China than they do here by a little bit. While the Barrow and BP rotaries are very close in quality if you look at the tube fittings and other types of fittings the difference is very obvious.


----------



## J7SC

nycgtr said:


> Barrow, bitspower, byksi are not related to each other. In terms of quality there are differences between the 3. I have over 200 fittings at least from each. Bitspower fittings have the best quality and finish out of the 3. Barrow is very close in terms of weight and feel, but the finish quality and attention to detail is not at bitspower levels with fittings. In terms of blocks it's not even close. Bykski fittings will feel the cheapest out of all of these, and bykski often uses aluminum parts where it can, for example the collars of the byski fittings are often alumninum. BP fittings have a premium, but you do get what you pay for. In China Barrow fittings are much cheaper than they are here, and BP fittings cost more in China than they do here by a little bit. While the Barrow and BP rotaries are very close in quality if you look at the tube fittings and other types of fittings the difference is very obvious.


 
Where do you place Koolance in this comparison, regarding quality ? I find their QDs are far better than Swiftech (the only other QDs I have) and two CPU blocks from Koolance I use have been very reliable (including their finish).


----------



## nycgtr

J7SC said:


> Where do you place Koolance in this comparison, regarding quality ? I find their QDs are far better than Swiftech (the only other QDs I have) and two CPU blocks from Koolance I use have been very reliable (including their finish).


Koolance was alright when I bought their stuff, but I have not bought their fittings in over 8 years. As for swiftech, their fittings felt cheap to me. For me, I think bitspower and barrow would probably be the only 2 companies fittings I would buy over and over. I have had enzotech (goods stuff but limited selection), xspc (pretty good for the money but barrow is better at the same price range), monsoon (ugly and eat your hands mini wrench or not) and EK (just crap fittings, don't own quantum ones so I won't comment on those). I have got way too many fittings for my own good, but I would say barrow is my largest collection of all. They work well, some of them like the v4s can be a pain with acrylic or brass as the fitting is beyond deep (think it's about half an inch in depth) so you have to be very precise and work around it at times when it comes to installing tubing. Bitspower and barrow definitely make up the bulk of my collection. In terms of quality/cost I think barrow is way better than anyone else, I have literally 2.5 suitcases worth of their fittings.


----------



## LeoYunta

Here is my second loop ! Cheers


----------



## Eze2kiel




----------



## J7SC

nycgtr said:


> Koolance was alright when I bought their stuff, but I have not bought their fittings in over 8 years. As for swiftech, their fittings felt cheap to me. For me, I think bitspower and barrow would probably be the only 2 companies fittings I would buy over and over. I have had enzotech (goods stuff but limited selection), xspc (pretty good for the money but barrow is better at the same price range), monsoon (ugly and eat your hands mini wrench or not) and EK (just crap fittings, don't own quantum ones so I won't comment on those). I have got way too many fittings for my own good, but I would say barrow is my largest collection of all. They work well, some of them like the v4s can be a pain with acrylic or brass as the fitting is beyond deep (think it's about half an inch in depth) so you have to be very precise and work around it at times when it comes to installing tubing. Bitspower and barrow definitely make up the bulk of my collection. In terms of quality/cost I think barrow is way better than anyone else, I have literally 2.5 suitcases worth of their fittings.


Tx  I agree re. Swiftech vs Koolance. My Swiftech QDs feel cheaper and always leak a bit when opening, Koolance always stay dry, though the Koolance ODs are 'massive'. I like the Swiftech MCP655 (D5 style) pumps, though. I have had 8 in use for over 7 years <> no probs.


----------



## ProRules

LeoYunta said:


> Here is my second loop ! Cheers


Hey looks great!!
But how are your RAM temps doing?
If i am correct, this is the Z390 Dark, and RAM being behind the radiator without airflow.


----------



## Qu1ckset

LeoYunta said:


> Here is my second loop ! Cheers


Cant Tell if this is the R6 or S2 but I love the way you did your loop, and actually curious to see more pics of how you plumbed the front rad if you could post a couple pics?

I have the R6 and went with a 240 up top instead of the 360 as I didn't want to have that ugly tube going the length of the top rad that must people do when they put 2x 360 rads. 

I might steal your idea tho and replace the 240 with a 360 rad when I decide to upgrade my CPU/Mobo


----------



## Bart

Great looking loop LeoYunta! Clean and classy, nicely done!

Here's my backup rig, all AMD. Ryzen 3700X on Asus C7H, 32GB 3200CL14 RAM, Radeon VII:









Plus my very large daily driver, about to be downsized:


----------



## Optimus WC

Fun build


----------



## Majentrix

Top part of my EKWB reservoir has blown off from the rest of the body, and the D5 pump isn't working at all. Anyone ever had this happen to them? Both are only six months old.


----------



## lb_felipe

Optimus WC said:


> Fun build


What rads did you use?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Cerberus X is finally arriving today after a long wait. I'll post pics of my loop inside of that 19.5 liter balls to the wall ATX SFFPC case tonight when I get out of work.


----------



## Gilles3000

RavageTheEarth said:


> Cerberus X is finally arriving today after a long wait. I'll post pics of my loop inside of that 19.5 liter balls to the wall ATX SFFPC case tonight when I get out of work.


Please do! The sliger cases are pretty awesome, if only they weren't so eyewatering expensive to get delivered in europe, I probably would've gotten the regular cerberus over my current Jonsbo UMX3.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Holy mother of god what an interesting case the Cerbeus X is. This is like the most expensive puzzle ever. I've only built in full size ATX cases so this is quite the treat. 

There have been a number of "whoops I got to take it apart again" moments. Here are a few. 

1. Installed the front radiator, couldn't get the motherboard in. 

2. Installed the res/pump on the front radiator, realized the pump bracket was hitting the RAM, needed to remove top front rad fan.

3. Realized I needed to take the front rad out and plug the 24 pin MOBO cable in because there was no way I could reach that.

4. Plugged in the USB header and MOBO cable and reinstalled the rad, realized that the rad was now crushing the USB header. Welp, can't use that!

5. Install the bottom radiator, realize I need to take it out to plug in the power and reset button cable because I couldn't reach it. 

6. Go to install GPU, won't fit because of front rad, now I need to remove the bottom front radiator fan to allow it to fit. 

I called it a night to let my brain chill for a little bit. I'm going to need the brainpower tomorrow when I get back at it. 

Three 120mm fans stacked to show just how small this case really is.









As it stands now.


----------



## ugotd8

WIP - TT Level 20 XT


----------



## IT Diva

ugotd8 said:


> WIP - TT Level 20 XT






Having built a number of "blingy" builds in Tt's larger cases, it seems rather oxymoronic to have a sweet acrylic res /coolant manager in a show position, and then use black soft tubing to tie it in to the mobo and rads.


Acrylic tubing and some nice lighting will give you a much more professional/finished look.




But them I'm old and senile . . . so how much can I know . . . . 
YMMV


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Cerberus X is done! 19.5 liters of ATX deliciousness!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice weird place for a psu can't see much of the mother board


----------



## RavageTheEarth

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nice weird place for a psu can't see much of the mother board


It is a strange place indeed, but I like it because in such a small case, every liter of space is precious so this way you can mount a radiator in the bottom and in the front. Cable management wasn't as bad as I thought it would be either. I just can't get over how tiny this thing is.


----------



## IT Diva

RavageTheEarth said:


> It is a strange place indeed, but I like it because in such a small case, every liter of space is precious so this way you can mount a radiator in the bottom and in the front. Cable management wasn't as bad as I thought it would be either. I just can't get over how tiny this thing is.





Going with a SFF PSU would look a lot better proportionally.


With current technology, you can get SFFs to 850 platinum rating with power to spare for anything you can fit in the case.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

IT Diva said:


> Going with a SFF PSU would look a lot better proportionally.
> 
> 
> With current technology, you can get SFFs to 850 platinum rating with power to spare for anything you can fit in the case.


I'm going to be rebuilding it in a gen or two. I'm still running my 6700k because I have no real reason to upgrade it right now except for "just because". I want to see what Intel puts out in response to the 3990x. Then I'll most likely switch to an SFX PSU. I honestly don't mind the ATX PSU. Fills up the case more and gives me more room to hide cables :thumb:

I have a vented side panel so I'm not really going for looks anyways.


----------



## BrjSan

Hi guys, 

I have received 6 rads, looks in bad shape, so i have decided to cut open one of them and examine it ..... and appreciate an advise on it, is it curable? if it is then i would win 5 Rads ..... 

The fist photo is the cut piece dry, the others , are the same piece after washed with hot water (i.e: wet), the surface of the inside piece seems like very fine crystallization, and very hard, even can not be scuffed.

what do u guys think??


----------



## dwolvin

Try a 10% white vinegar soak to see if the minerals dissolve. If they do- you should be able to clean them no problem.


----------



## Silent Scone

Hi gents,

Quick pic of my 3950X build that i finished recently


----------



## GAN77

Silent Scone said:


> Hi gents,
> 
> Quick pic of my 3950X build that i finished recently


Beautiful and neat assembly!


----------



## lightsout

Silent Scone said:


> Hi gents,
> 
> 
> 
> Quick pic of my 3950X build that i finished recently




Super clean build man. Love that distribution plate and that super fat rad. Wow!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice one Scone also got the bigfoot 3950x you dog :thumb:


----------



## Barefooter

Silent Scone said:


> Hi gents,
> 
> Quick pic of my 3950X build that i finished recently


That looks awesome :thumb:


----------



## Bart

Silent Scone: looking good man! :thumbsup:

New Threadripper build I just put together. Still needs some lighting work, and my OCD might force some tubes to be re-bent, but it's basically done.


----------



## bloodycrashboy

Silent Scone said:


> Hi gents,
> 
> 
> 
> Quick pic of my 3950X build that i finished recently


Thats beautiful [emoji3531]


----------



## bloodycrashboy

Bart said:


> Silent Scone: looking good man!
> 
> 
> 
> New Threadripper build I just put together. Still needs some lighting work, and my OCD might force some tubes to be re-bent, but it's basically done.



I have same same but different. 

Mine is a Ryzen (budget build)


----------



## InfoSeeker

A holiday special for all water-cooling enthusiasts who do NOT have a local vendor available to them.

MODDIY.com Christmas Sale is now LIVE!
FREE Shipping Worldwide ALL Products for all orders $50+!

Plus when I logged on today I got a message "Get 10% off all products today with coupon code LA10, enjoy!"


----------



## Ceadderman

InfoSeeker said:


> A holiday special for all water-cooling enthusiasts who do NOT have a local vendor available to them.
> 
> MODDIY.com Christmas Sale is now LIVE!
> FREE Shipping Worldwide ALL Products for all orders $50+!
> 
> Plus when I logged on today I got a message "Get 10% off all products today with coupon code LA10, enjoy!"


Meh, I will stick with PPCs. Last time I ordered from China I was left waiting for 2 months without the DeepCool pwm fan hubs I ordered from the Egg. Last time I do that. Now I strictly purchase from Newegg direct and not one of their Amazonian style vendors. Although that was a 50/50 experience. I don't mind a short wait but 2 mos sorta cheesed me off.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## dwolvin

So, I'm getting bubbles in my monoblock, possible from a slow pump? It's on a 1700x with a light overclock, but nothing crazy (I think 3.35 or step 5 of 10 on MSI's overclocker). Anything else that I should look for? Bubbles only show up during demanding CPU load, btw.


----------



## Ceadderman

dwolvin said:


> So, I'm getting bubbles in my monoblock, possible from a slow pump? It's on a 1700x with a light overclock, but nothing crazy (I think 3.35 or step 5 of 10 on MSI's overclocker). Anything else that I should look for? Bubbles only show up during demanding CPU load, btw.


Is your loop full or is your reservoir holding air?

If you've gpt air in your reservoir, I might suggest that you fill and tilt to burp your loop of excess air. Run and bleed your loop with the highest cap point left open for a day or so and fill as you go. I've run my loops completely full as that is my preferred method of operation. I doubt your pump is the issue. Though it certainly could be a possibility your pump is not up to the current task, I rather doubt it. I've run DDCs' and D5s'(From DDC-1s' up to PWM Varios', with angle fittings and without. I've never run into an issue with pressure drop that caused bubbles. So it seems to me that your loop hasn't been fully bled of air. I would lay the system on its back and visually inspect it for bubbles while cycling the loop off and on for a bit. If you have air trapped in the loop, it should be revealed pretty quickly if your Reservoir is completely filled.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## dwolvin

Sorry to type while asleep... I should have added that this loop is a year old and very much bled. I lay it flat monthly and apply gentle agitation (ok, jump the MB connector and wack the case) to get the block clear of anything but a few microbubbles, but they start visibly building up within a few days of regular use. No bubbles of any kind in the tubing noted, and the res is set up to extract air (offset top entry into the res). The loop is Enermax NeoChanger pump-90deg fitting-EK 1080ti block-EK monoblock-EK 420 rad -return. All soft tubes, no clouds or plasticizer buildup noted. I'm no expert, but this is not my first loop either. 

Weird.


----------



## Destrto

dwolvin said:


> Sorry to type while asleep... I should have added that this loop is a year old and very much bled. I lay it flat monthly and apply gentle agitation (ok, jump the MB connector and wack the case) to get the block clear of anything but a few microbubbles, but they start visibly building up within a few days of regular use. No bubbles of any kind in the tubing noted, and the res is set up to extract air (offset top entry into the res). The loop is Enermax NeoChanger pump-90deg fitting-EK 1080ti block-EK monoblock-EK 420 rad -return. All soft tubes, no clouds or plasticizer buildup noted. I'm no expert, but this is not my first loop either.
> 
> Weird.


That sounds like you have a slight leak somewhere.


----------



## jvillaveces

dwolvin said:


> Sorry to type while asleep... I should have added that this loop is a year old and very much bled. I lay it flat monthly and apply gentle agitation (ok, jump the MB connector and wack the case) to get the block clear of anything but a few microbubbles, but they start visibly building up within a few days of regular use. No bubbles of any kind in the tubing noted, and the res is set up to extract air (offset top entry into the res). The loop is Enermax NeoChanger pump-90deg fitting-EK 1080ti block-EK monoblock-EK 420 rad -return. All soft tubes, no clouds or plasticizer buildup noted. I'm no expert, but this is not my first loop either.
> 
> Weird.


I hate to say this but what you are describing sounds like a slow leak somewhere in your loop. It's the first explanation that comes to mind for the entry of air into a properly bled system.


----------



## Ceadderman

jvillaveces said:


> I hate to say this but what you are describing sounds like a slow leak somewhere in your loop. It's the first explanation that comes to mind for the entry of air into a properly bled system.





Destrto said:


> That sounds like you have a slight leak somewhere.


Yeah this was my alternate theory, but I tend not to gravitate towards this in initial responses. I hate scaring the wizz out of people needlessly. 

I would recommend, draining the loop and air testing for leakage with a little soap solution. If bubbles form around the fitting, that's the likliest point of leakage.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, that was my first thought also, but I don't have anything to pressure test and the rig has never dripped in the nearly two years of operation. The whole rig is about to get moved to a new case when I remember to pick up some new tubing, so I'll get another chance then.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Ceadderman said:


> Meh, I will stick with PPCs. Last time I ordered from China I was left waiting for 2 months without the DeepCool pwm fan hubs I ordered from the Egg. Last time I do that. Now I strictly purchase from Newegg direct and not one of their Amazonian style vendors. Although that was a 50/50 experience. I don't mind a short wait but 2 mos sorta cheesed me off.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:



I agree, some of those "free shipping" deals, are not useful, but this outfit is in Hong Kong and generally has been 1 to 2 weeks at worst. I only look at them for some unique items I would not find at Newegg or PPCs or ModMyMods, etc., like these 180° angled connector for my graphics cards... very useful in a mATX build.


----------



## Trestles126

Full clean after 3 years of chaotic new born and growing toddler and busy work schedule. Needed it , tore it all apart blocks and all to be pretty suprised no corrosion no affects of the stainless tubing being used only thing was the mayhems pastel separated and gathered at the bottom of my 2 Rads in the pedestal nothing blitz couldn’t take care of. Was gonna upgrade my dual 980tis to 1080tis but really haven’t used the rig for gaming much lately and will hair wait to do a entire rebuild later. Still runs battlefield and such just fine


----------



## Ceadderman

InfoSeeker said:


> I agree, some of those "free shipping" deals, are not useful, but this outfit is in Hong Kong and generally has been 1 to 2 weeks at worst. I only look at them for some unique items I would not find at Newegg or PPCs or ModMyMods, etc., like these 180° angled connector for my graphics cards... very useful in a mATX build.


Ppcs do carry them. They have 6pin and 8pin specific coonectors. 

https://www.performance-pcs.com/cab...ector-adapter-board-type-a-mdy-co1067-6a.html










They even carry the ones that put your cables under the GPU instead of on top. Not a big fan of the ones that you posted since the cables sit atop the GPU. In fact I am gonna order a bunch of these since I've got 4 systems.  lol

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## InfoSeeker

Ceadderman said:


> Ppcs do carry them. They have 6pin and 8pin specific coonectors.
> 
> They even carry the ones that put your cables under the GPU instead of on top. Not a big fan of the ones that you posted since the cables sit atop the GPU. In fact I am gonna order a bunch of these since I've got 4 systems.  lol
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:



Cool, they do work well. 

My MB is horizontal, so the Video cards are vertical and the 'A' version worked best for me. But it is nice they have both so you can go down either side.


----------



## arduum

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/330...&terminal_id=0d1286b2057449a4b396fd542b65fef8


----------



## ziocomposite

First custom loop finally done. 980 ti hybrid was beginning to fail and was waiting to really do my first loop when the 3080ti comes out. Great price for the gpu block so decided to go for it.

Meehify C
3800x w/x570 Taichi
280 front and 240 top radiators (GTS)
Heatkiller CPU and GPU block


----------



## Nighthog

Just made a upgrade on the GPU side with a MSI VEGA 64 I got cheaper from my brother who in turn got it from a Mining Rig from someone he knew, but will need to wait for new waterblock for the card to arrive as I just made a order for a Alphacool GPX block for it. 

Kinda funny having a RX 480 besides a VEGA 64 in the system both running, with the RX 480 still in the waterloop but the new addition on stock blower cooling.

Was kinda funky and there are some things not working optimal in Windows with two cards. Many retries in options to work properly.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Here is my new monster case :


----------



## ziocomposite

dan86 said:


> Interesting layout. I like it.


Thank you! Added the drain valve and a small stat screen recently.


----------



## Soulpatch

*New build*

First new liquid build in 20 years. We used to custom machine blocks and run stainless 1/2 tube with parker compression fittings. Tech has come a long way since those days. 

Since this has been my first build in a very long time, kept it pretty simple and clean. 



Asus Z390-e motherboard
i9-9900k cpu
64M ddr4 3200 ram
MSI 1070 GTX gpu
WD Black 1tb m.2 hard drive
Samsung SSD 1tb hard drive
EVGA G2 1000w PSU
EK CPU/GPU water blocks
Bitspower 011 sedna front distribution panel
primochill candy purple fittings/UV green 1/2" petg tubing, purple rad



Have the coolant temp run to the board to control fan/pump speeds. I used to be a prototype power-train fabricator/mech engineer and the loop is small enough that measuring deltaT and using more than one probe would be pointless. So far under benchmark and game load the temps haven't gone past 45C (CPU/GPU) and coolant usually tops out around 35C. Of course nothing is over-clocked at the moment. But haven't had a reason to clock it any higher than stock anyway. 

Colors are purple/green but looks pretty washed out in the pics. I'm currently building/sleeving custom atx lines in purple/green to finish it off.


----------



## Bartdude

ziocomposite said:


> First custom loop finally done. 980 ti hybrid was beginning to fail and was waiting to really do my first loop when the 3080ti comes out. Great price for the gpu block so decided to go for it.
> 
> Meehify C
> 3800x w/x570 Taichi
> 280 front and 240 top radiators (GTS)
> Heatkiller CPU and GPU block


Looks good but do you realize the EK pump is not designed to run horizontally? Check the install manual it clearly states must be vertical, quote " This water pump & EK-XRES SPC/DDC reservoir combo can be used in vertical mounting configuration (position) only!"


----------



## Nighthog

Soulpatch said:


> First new liquid build in 20 years. We used to custom machine blocks and run stainless 1/2 tube with parker compression fittings. Tech has come a long way since those days.
> 
> Since this has been my first build in a very long time, kept it pretty simple and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> Asus Z390-e motherboard
> i9-9900k cpu
> 64M ddr4 3200 ram
> MSI 1070 GTX gpu
> WD Black 1tb m.2 hard drive
> Samsung SSD 1tb hard drive
> EVGA G2 1000w PSU
> EK CPU/GPU water blocks
> Bitspower 011 sedna front distribution panel
> primochill candy purple fittings/UV green 1/2" petg tubing, purple rad
> 
> 
> 
> Have the coolant temp run to the board to control fan/pump speeds. I used to be a prototype power-train fabricator/mech engineer and the loop is small enough that measuring deltaT and using more than one probe would be pointless. So far under benchmark and game load the temps haven't gone past 45C (CPU/GPU) and coolant usually tops out around 35C. Of course nothing is over-clocked at the moment. But haven't had a reason to clock it any higher than stock anyway.
> 
> Colors are purple/green but looks pretty washed out in the pics. I'm currently building/sleeving custom atx lines in purple/green to finish it off.


Looks all good on my side for the pics. Purple and neon toxic green for that older style "Toxic Waste" look. I like it.


----------



## iBerggman

Bartdude said:


> ziocomposite said:
> 
> 
> 
> First custom loop finally done.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good but do you realize the EK pump is not designed to run horizontally? Check the install manual it clearly states must be vertical, quote " This water pump & EK-XRES SPC/DDC reservoir combo can be used in vertical mounting configuration (position) only!"
Click to expand...

That's a D5 revo x-res though, isn't it? That one is okay to run in any orientation as long as the pump isn't completely upside down.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Temps are finally low enough for my taste in this new build


----------



## Hequaqua

My first hard tubing loop. I just did it in soft, decided why not go hard line. I still have to cut in my gpu block(2070 took a dump and had to RMA it right before Christmas). The replacement card should be here tomorrow. I'll probably test it for a week or so, then cut it into the loop. 

I don't think I did too bad bending. I would much rather have a bigger case...maybe tax time. 

A few looks....I don't have many of the hard loop yet, but I'll put what I have in here.

Soft:


Spoiler






























Hard:



Spoiler






























Side by Side:



Spoiler


----------



## ziocomposite

Bartdude said:


> Looks good but do you realize the EK pump is not designed to run horizontally? Check the install manual it clearly states must be vertical, quote " This water pump & EK-XRES SPC/DDC reservoir combo can be used in vertical mounting configuration (position) only!"


Size-wise DDC was in contention but the sound and this mounting issue resulted in D5 version being used =D



iBerggman said:


> That's a D5 revo x-res though, isn't it? That one is okay to run in any orientation as long as the pump isn't completely upside down.


That is correct!


----------



## Hequaqua

dan86 said:


> both look nice. But I have to ask, how much of a difference did flipping the fans around make?


Thanks:thumb:

I flipped the top fans to pull air in to keep the ram and vrm temps lower. I think it helped a lot. I'm a bit OCD...so I tested it both ways. Temps were about 4-5°C cooler overall I think, not a deal breaker, but it puts my mind at ease. For whatever reason, if I see 45°+ on the VRM's I panic a bit. Ram I try to keep below 40° under heavy testing(TM5/HCI/etc). 

With the rad mounted in the front, while there is quite of bit of air moving through the rad, I felt like mounting the fans in that orientation was better. It also allowed me to keep the fans at a lower rpm. ATM, all the fans run around 1200rpm(Front intake, top intake, rear exhaust). The pump can go up to around 4800rpm, but I set it at a static 34%, which gives me around 2700rpm. So overall the system doesn't ramp up and down, and it's pretty quiet. 

I do like the looks of the hard tubing, but soft is so much easier to mess with.


----------



## TeslaHUN

dan86 said:


> I see lots of room for more rads in that case....


U'r right , 21 x 140mm radiator surface area just barely enough ,i might add anotner MO-Ra on the top in the future


----------



## outofmyheadyo

TeslaHUN said:


> Temps are finally low enough for my taste in this new build
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYg0rgvoRAI&feature=youtu.be



This is what watercooling is all about, nice one!


----------



## Soulpatch

Thanks, now that I have the led aura software up and running it helps add to the color. The sleeving will be done soon, talk about a pia. Think next time it'd be worth it to pay somebody, but I wanted to keep costs way down on this build. Been thinking about pulling the front panel apart to see how thick the front face is. I was thinking it has a major design flaw when it comes to mechanics. The manual pressure relief is on the inside where you have to pull the top/side panels just to reach it. As well as the drain. I posted to see if anybody had already taken one apart (save me the hassle). If it'd be worth drilling/tapping to move the fill/relief port as well as the drain (convenience) to the outside. Won't hurt anything aesthetically and it'd make maintenance much easier. 



Another option was thinking about installing a small reservoir up in the left corner mounted above the case tag. Maybe a 100mm or something. Would add to the look, but would give the option of more coolant, creating an ultimately cooler running system. Anybody have any thoughts on it? Like i said, first liquid build in many many years lol


----------



## Soulpatch

Nighthog said:


> Looks all good on my side for the pics. Purple and neon toxic green for that older style "Toxic Waste" look. I like it.





Hequaqua said:


> My first hard tubing loop. I just did it in soft, decided why not go hard line. I still have to cut in my gpu block(2070 took a dump and had to RMA it right before Christmas). The replacement card should be here tomorrow. I'll probably test it for a week or so, then cut it into the loop.
> 
> I don't think I did too bad bending. I would much rather have a bigger case...maybe tax time.
> 
> A few looks....I don't have many of the hard loop yet, but I'll put what I have in here.
> 
> Soft:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 315972
> 
> 
> View attachment 315974
> 
> 
> View attachment 315976
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hard:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 315978
> 
> 
> View attachment 315980
> 
> 
> View attachment 315982
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side by Side:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 315984



Looks really nice, clean even bends and really opens up the look of the internals.


----------



## Soulpatch

dan86 said:


> I see lots of room for more rads in that case....





TeslaHUN said:


> Temps are finally low enough for my taste in this new build
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYg0rgvoRAI&feature=youtu.be



The ROOM in that case is insane! I wanted to go bigger just to have the room to change configs once in awhile, but couldn't pass up the deal on mine. You could easily add more rads, or even a couple larger reservoirs. Maybe daisy chain a couple of them for the look as well as the extra coolant if you're running hot. But 25C at idle isn't bad at all. What is your build specs? Think I missed them from another post?


----------



## TeslaHUN

Soulpatch said:


> The ROOM in that case is insane! I wanted to go bigger just to have the room to change configs once in awhile, but couldn't pass up the deal on mine. You could easily add more rads, or even a couple larger reservoirs. Maybe daisy chain a couple of them for the look as well as the extra coolant if you're running hot. But 25C at idle isn't bad at all. What is your build specs? Think I missed them from another post?


Hehe its true ,i have more room for rads , but I already have 21x 140mm surface installed ( or 7 x 420mm rad if its more easy to visualize ) , more radiator would do nothing.
That 25C water temp is on load (22-23 C room) not idle , Shadow of Tomb Raider benchmark running 
I was thinking about to add a second reservoir in the future to fill up some empty space .
Specs are on the video description.


----------



## Nighthog

Became a whole day project to install the Vega 64 and my DRAM cooling into the loop.

Sadly Hotspot temp on the Vega 64 was bad and I had to drain and get the card out again to reapply the mounting of the block for better contact. Air pocket was the cause in the thermal paste 110C in stock basically, sadly the new mount didn't help too much. Still got bad Hotspot temperature. 
Not as bad as before but only about 10-15C better the second try. Will throttle with increased power limit.

Will have to do a third retry with the mounting.

Anyone love my tubing skills?


----------



## Hequaqua

Soulpatch said:


> Looks really nice, clean even bends and really opens up the look of the internals.


Thanks!


----------



## Soulpatch

TeslaHUN said:


> Hehe its true ,i have more room for rads , but I already have 21x 140mm surface installed ( or 7 x 420mm rad if its more easy to visualize ) , more radiator would do nothing.
> That 25C water temp is on load (22-23 C room) not idle , Shadow of Tomb Raider benchmark running
> I was thinking about to add a second reservoir in the future to fill up some empty space .
> Specs are on the video description.



That's under load!!! I'm happy that the small loop of mine runs about 40C under load (stock clock i9-9900k). Ya, more rad's wouldn't do any more good. About the best you can do at this point would be to add another res to increase capacity which would make it harder for the temp to creep up because your surface area to cooling ratio is insanely high. Other than that I couldn't think of anything short of a small 4 pass heat exchanger to remove anymore heat. Use those in dyno cells when pushing engines to white hot breaking points lol Actually, think I may have given myself an idea for a patent..... 

Anyway, that's why I was thinking about adding a small res to help compensate mine, but you are definitely rocking it hard lol


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
New optimus foundation cpu copper plexi installed


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> New optimus foundation cpu copper plexi installed




I’m loving the tube routing. Lol


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
My octopus


----------



## dwolvin

Optimus for the Octopus...


----------



## Nighthog

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> New optimus foundation cpu copper plexi installed


Have any performance remarks to make with the new block? Better? Worse? 
What did you have before as comparison etc.


----------



## ThrashZone

Nighthog said:


> Have any performance remarks to make with the new block? Better? Worse?
> What did you have before as comparison etc.


Hi,
Yep 3c better another post a couple posts down with different paste

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> My octopus




Mines a little cleaner, I just HAD to add the extra 360 just because I could


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Mines a little cleaner, I just HAD to add the extra 360 just because I could


Hi,
Looks like a freaking empty high rise


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Looks like a freaking empty high rise




Lol I know. So much space in the TH10.

The other side is a bit messier


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Good thing it's empty sort of misleading though but you probably still need a darn forklift to move it


----------



## Shawnb99

Just putting the top half onto the pedestal is a PIA. There's no way I could lift it all put together


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Just putting the top half onto the pedestal is a PIA. There's no way I could lift it all put together


Hi,
Mine has some weight to it but at least I can bear hug the bugger and move it


----------



## D-EJ915

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> New optimus foundation cpu copper plexi installed


Why the GPU in the x8 slot?


----------



## taowulf

D-EJ915 said:


> Why the GPU in the x8 slot?


GPUs don't get a benefit from being in the x16 slot over x8.


----------



## Shawnb99

dan86 said:


> Yes it does




Depends on the GPU. My 2080TI loses about 3% running at 8x instead of 16x


----------



## Gilles3000

Shawnb99 said:


> Mines a little cleaner, I just HAD to add the extra 360 just because I could


Damn, I'd get 2 (maybe even 3?) off those cheapo 40cm tube reservoirs off aliexpress just to have something in there, looks like a black hole.

It would fix that weird tubing run as well.


----------



## Shawnb99

Gilles3000 said:


> Damn, I'd get 2 (maybe even 3?) off those cheapo 40cm tube reservoirs off aliexpress just to have something in there, looks like a black hole.
> 
> 
> 
> It would fix that weird tubing run as well.




Yeah thinking of adding more to it. 
It looks weird cause I ha e dual 560 rads in the bottom so they go into the CPU to GPU to the extra 260 rad I didn’t want to go waste.

I thought of a few more reservoirs but am trying my hardest not to modify the case at all.


----------



## Gilles3000

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah thinking of adding more to it.
> It looks weird cause I ha e dual 560 rads in the bottom so they go into the CPU to GPU to the extra 260 rad I didn’t want to go waste.
> 
> I thought of a few more reservoirs but am trying my hardest not to modify the case at all.


I think I've seen people mount a plate to the existing holes on caselabs cases and then mount reservoirs onto the plate. that way you keep the case stock and if you use stand-offs it even gives you some extra space to hide cables.

On the topic of cable management you could probably get a roll of velcro ties and some braided cable wrap to quickly and cheaply tidy up the psu compartment.


----------



## Shawnb99

Gilles3000 said:


> I think I've seen people mount a plate to the existing holes on caselabs cases and then mount reservoirs onto the plate. that way you keep the case stock and if you use stand-offs it even gives you some extra space to hide cables.
> 
> 
> 
> On the topic of cable management you could probably get a roll of velcro ties and some braided cable wrap to quickly and cheaply tidy up the psu compartment.




Yeah I have a whole bunch if the Velcro rolls, I’ll tidy it up at some point. I was more in a rush of getting it working.

The idea of a plate is interesting I might look into that. Thanks for the idea


----------



## ThrashZone

D-EJ915 said:


> Why the GPU in the x8 slot?


Hi,
GPU is in the second x16 slot.


----------



## D-EJ915

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> GPU is in the second x16 slot.


Apex is x16 x8 x16 x8 though so it's running at x8. Not a huge difference but just kind of weird without any other slots used lol.


----------



## ThrashZone

D-EJ915 said:


> Apex is x16 x8 x16 x8 though so it's running at x8. Not a huge difference but just kind of weird without any other slots used lol.


Hi,
The second won't fit a gpu man lol :doh:
I said second pci-e slot.


----------



## vagrant

Recent new build


----------



## Gunderman456

Nice build!

Looks like your soft tubing from the reservoir is kinked. Also you have a demon living on top of the case.


----------



## Fluxmaven

That kinked tube immediately jumped out at me as well. I'm assuming it's just a drain line that gets folded away when not in use though.


----------



## vagrant

Gunderman456 said:


> Nice build!
> 
> Looks like your soft tubing from the reservoir is kinked. Also you have a demon living on top of the case.


Show some respect to the 1980s ceiling light. 

But yeah I have a coil on it now taking the kink out.



Gunderman456 said:


> Nice build!
> 
> Looks like your soft tubing from the reservoir is kinked. Also you have a demon living on top of the case.


Yeah it's just a drain line that goes to a ball valve. It actually goes to my pass through port on the front of the case. It's also on a rotary 90 so I just rotate it to face backwards to keep it out of sight.


----------



## Soulpatch

Nice build, like the box look, since it gives it that "machine" style of build. The cylinder reservoirs look pretty cool but the box is "old school" from my gen of water cooling. Kind of like a throwback to the stone age lol. For us it was easier to build a box, than find an acrylic tube to thread on. Stuff was stupid money back then.


----------



## Soulpatch

Some minor re-work because the green/purple wasn't working due to the washed out purple led's. So switched to clear tubing and moved a few things around. Finally got around to doing the monitor screen. It's a 3x5" screen mounted to some 3/16" acrylic that I put about a 25 degree bend in. No the screen isn't cracked, just needs to be cleaned. Have a new pwm 60mm VRM fan that I'm mounting as well. The stock one sits to the left about 1" to far so only half is blowing on vrm. So new mount and fan...besides I wanted a pwm so it'll be a bit quieter most of the time. Corsairs came in and mounted those to the radiator. Still thinking about adding a small 100mm reservoir for the extra volume since it'll run a bit cooler. But even under load it rarely gets above 40C. Although it's still not over-clocked yet lol


----------



## smex

Dual pre-closed loop liquid metal concept.


----------



## Soulpatch

smex said:


> Dual pre-closed loop liquid metal concept.



Dark and and foreboding, love the look.


----------



## smex

Nah, was just a test. Now it´s colorfull like a rainbow 

TY


----------



## bullydog

New AMD Build for the New Year!


----------



## ThrashZone

D-EJ915 said:


> Why the GPU in the x8 slot?


Hi,
Sorry for doubting you 
You were correct I should of double checked the web manual 
Forth slot is x16 but still not designed for single card only sli so I guess gpu will have to go back up eventually 
I moved it down for a little more room up top :/

Second slot, benchmarks haven't fallen off though all my msi afterburner profiles won't apply they have to be redone.
Jpmboy said on high resolutions it might take a hit being in second slot.


----------



## D-EJ915

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sorry for doubting you
> You were correct I should of double checked the web manual
> Forth slot is x16 but still not designed for single card only sli so I guess gpu will have to go back up eventually
> I moved it down for a little more room up top :/
> 
> Second slot, benchmarks haven't fallen off though all my msi afterburner profiles won't apply they have to be redone.
> Jpmboy said on high resolutions it might take a hit being in second slot.


Yeah it's not usually a big difference in real life but more that unless you're using x16 for a quad M.2 card you may as well have the GPU in it.


----------



## BradleyW

Shawnb99 said:


> Mines a little cleaner, I just HAD to add the extra 360 just because I could


What is that Chassis?


----------



## Hequaqua

Has anyone here ever used the radiators from Formula Mod?

Thinking about getting a thicker one to replace my HL Nemesis or adding one to my loop. Prices look really good. His shipping is actually fairly fast, and reasonable. I've ordered from him in the past, and shipping is like 10 days. That's much better than some of the sellers on AliExpress.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Hequaqua said:


> Has anyone here ever used the radiators from Formula Mod?
> 
> Thinking about getting a thicker one to replace my HL Nemesis or adding one to my loop. Prices look really good. His shipping is actually fairly fast, and reasonable. I've ordered from him in the past, and shipping is like 10 days. That's much better than some of the sellers on AliExpress.



Haven't used their radiators, but I would add an additional radiator before I swapped out an existing one unless you really just want the look of a thicker radiator.


----------



## Shawnb99

BradleyW said:


> What is that Chassis?


Caselabs TH10A with a Pedestal, Reverse ATX. So the MB's upside down


----------



## Soulpatch

Shawnb99 said:


> Caselabs TH10A with a Pedestal, Reverse ATX. So the MB's upside down



Large amount of room in that box. I'd be tempted to make an intricate water system to fill up much of the space just for fun lol I agree with the previous post, no point in going to a whole new rad unless you want to go thicker. Be better off picking up another mid sized and running that. Plenty of room for it.


----------



## Soulpatch

Shawnb99 said:


> Caselabs TH10A with a Pedestal, Reverse ATX. So the MB's upside down



Large amount of room in that box. I'd be tempted to make an intricate water system to fill up much of the space just for fun lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Soulpatch said:


> Large amount of room in that box. I'd be tempted to make an intricate water system to fill up much of the space just for fun lol


I am thinking that now. Looking at adding a version of this dsitro plate and getting it custom designed to fit dual Optimus Pump/reservoir. 

https://www.singularitycomputers.com/thw10-protium-distro-plate/


----------



## Soulpatch

Shawnb99 said:


> I am thinking that now. Looking at adding a version of this dsitro plate and getting it custom designed to fit dual Optimus Pump/reservoir.
> 
> https://www.singularitycomputers.com/thw10-protium-distro-plate/



You could also do one of those that have a series of the tubular reservoirs and maybe run two separate series. one for the gpu and one for the cpu. Two 200ml reservoirs for each system, two separate pumps and I'd rig it to look like some funky explosive lol Especially if you are thinking about running dye or suspended fluids.


----------



## Shawnb99

Soulpatch said:


> You could also do one of those that have a series of the tubular reservoirs and maybe run two separate series. one for the gpu and one for the cpu. Two 200ml reservoirs for each system, two separate pumps and I'd rig it to look like some funky explosive lol Especially if you are thinking about running dye or suspended fluids.


Yeah I was thinking something along those lines. I'm a fan of dual pumps not dual loops but would consider it. Would want the Absolute D5 reservoir system from Optimus, no 200ml ones but they have 216mm ones.
I'd go different colored tubing rather then dyes. Dunno yet it would be a major upgrade after just upgrading to this case from a M8.

But planing some kind of distro plate next to the MB, Add the two pump/reservoirs, add a 480 radiator for the bottom of each side, cut holes as needed for the tubing and fill it to the brim.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hequaqua said:


> Has anyone here ever used the radiators from Formula Mod?
> 
> Thinking about getting a thicker one to replace my HL Nemesis or adding one to my loop. Prices look really good. His shipping is actually fairly fast, and reasonable. I've ordered from him in the past, and shipping is like 10 days. That's much better than some of the sellers on AliExpress.


Good luck getting anything from China in this current epidemic closure. China has closed air travel and nothing is being shipped out of Hong Kong. So unless someone has stock, they will have the devil's time getting anything. Barrow is manu'ed in China after all.

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Soulpatch

Ceadderman said:


> Good luck getting anything from China in this current epidemic closure. China has closed air travel and nothing is being shipped out of Hong Kong. So unless someone has stock, they will have the devil's time getting anything. Barrow is manu'ed in China after all.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:





That's true, so it is a bit trickier to get anything with color to it. Check out primochill and see what colors they have in stock before it's gone. I started out with green myself, but switched to clear. But if you run a dual system could always do a blue/green or something like that. No hurry, that stuff can get a bit pricey when you add all the fittings.


----------



## Hequaqua

Ceadderman said:


> Good luck getting anything from China in this current epidemic closure. China has closed air travel and nothing is being shipped out of Hong Kong. So unless someone has stock, they will have the devil's time getting anything. Barrow is manu'ed in China after all.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


Yea, and they are a still on their New Year break. :thumb:

It was just a thought...and I'm in no hurry to get anything at the moment. Was just wondering if anyone ever used one of their rads. They say they are copper and brass. I had a Barrow at first...but it sounded so odd with water running through it. Like someone whizzing on a tin roof. All I had hooked up to it was the pump/res so I know there wasn't any air in it. I sent it back...picked up the Black Ice. It's a bit on the "thin" side, so thought I might be better off with something thicker.


----------



## Barefooter

BradleyW said:


> What is that Chassis?





Soulpatch said:


> Large amount of room in that box. I'd be tempted to make an intricate water system to fill up much of the space just for fun lol


Here's my Caselabs THW10 reverse ATX (very similar to the TH10A) except I don't have a pedestal. I did try to fill mine up as much as possible which is not an easy task with this case. It has one large loop with two 560 rads, plus a 280 rad, and reservoir on _each_ side.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi guys,

Some pics of my current build with which overall I am very happy.

This is the main hardware:

- Ryzen 9 3950x
- Gigabyte X570 Aorus Xtreme
- EVGA RTX 2080 Ti XC Ultra
- 32 GB (2x16) G.Skill Trident Z 3200MHz CL14
- Corsair MP600 - 1 TB
- 2x SSD Samsung 850 EVO 2 TB y 500 GB
- Seasonic Prime Titanium 850w

Water cooling config:

- 1x Alphacool NexXxos 480 XT45 V2
- 1x Alphacool NexXxos 360 XT45 V2
- 1x Alphacool NexXxos 360 ST30 V2
- Heatkiller IV Pro CPU block
- Heatkiller IV GPU block with backplate
- 15x Noctua NF-AF12x25 PWM
- Singularity Computers pump, cover & reservoir
- Aquaero 6 LT
- Bitspower fittings and PETG tube
- Fluid Mayhems X1 Clear


Now the pics:














































Hope you like it!


----------



## Soulpatch

Barefooter said:


> Here's my Caselabs THW10 reverse ATX (very similar to the TH10A) except I don't have a pedestal. I did try to fill mine up as much as possible which is not an easy task with this case. It has one large loop with two 560 rads, plus a 280 rad, and reservoir on _each_ side.



Now THAT is exactly what I'm talking about. Old school/new school and it really stands out. Organized, meticulous and yet has that chaotic feel to it. Extremely well displayed, excellent job!


----------



## Dagamus NM

MoDeNa said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Hope you like it!


Looks great. What was your camera/lens setup for the last image?


----------



## Tony M

Here's my creation. So proud of myself.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Man happen to this forum, used to live on OCN, now it seems pretty dead, every time I jump on less and less activity, the last platform changed really killed off the population.. 

You guys find somewhere better to rival OCN glory days ?


----------



## trendy

Qu1ckset said:


> Man happen to this forum, used to live on OCN, now it seems pretty dead, every time I jump on less and less activity, the last platform changed really killed off the population..
> 
> You guys find somewhere better to rival OCN glory days ?


You should have seen this place a few years before you joined! Some of these WC threads have been around for over 10 years!


----------



## Rainmaker91

After a long time of absence I have finally started doing something with my build again and I have a goal of updating the build log as often as I can (hopefully once a day). With the build literally standing in a corner collecting dust for more than a year now it’s time I started doing something, and I have to give myself a goal to actually get ***** done. So if anyone is interesting in following a build log where I stumble through all the challenges that comes with doing substantial case mods feel free to take a look;

https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...perdue-enthoo-primo-rebuild.html#post26121745

If it’s not your cup of tea then that’s fine too


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far it looks like that build is coming along nicely, and I would love to see the finished build in all its glory :thumbs:


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## Rainmaker91

DarthBaggins said:


> So far it looks like that build is coming along nicely, and I would love to see the finished build in all its glory :thumbs:


Thank you, I'm actually starting to get excited about it again after leaving it in a dusty corner for so long  If all goes well I will paint the first parts befroe the end of februarym though I'm not promising anything.


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## Pepillo

My first hard tube build on new Lian Li Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL. Fittings and tube Corsair Hydro X, EK 360 PE and SE radiators, EK O11D Distro-Plate G1 with DDC 3.2, EK Velocity CPU block, Bykski Fullcover for Aourus 2080 TI, and Thermaltake Pacific Sensor:




































































































Not perfect, but I love it


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## Ceadderman

Pepillo said:


> My first hard tube build on new Lian Li Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL. Fittings and tube Corsair Hydro X, EK 360 PE and SE radiators, EK O11D Distro-Plate G1 with DDC 3.2, EK Velocity CPU block, Bykski Fullocover for Aourus 2080 TI, and Thermaltake Pacific Sensor:
> 
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> Not perfect, but I love it


No offense meant to you but I officially miss the early days of rigid tubing.

Oh an did squirrels take up residence in the back? Holeeeeeeeeeeeey :blinksmil can you even get your backplate over that? :headscrat

Not too shabby though. :thumb:

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Pepillo

I know, and I put it, it's not perfect, but I'm proud to be a beginner ....


----------



## Rainmaker91

Ceadderman said:


> No offense meant to you but I officially miss the early days of rigid tubing.
> 
> Oh an did squirrels take up residence in the back? Holeeeeeeeeeeeey :blinksmil can you even get your backplate over that? :headscrat
> 
> Not too shabby though. :thumb:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I'm assuming you are refering to the distribution plates that encourages most builds to go down very similar routes and aestetic designs. I don't particularily mind the build, but there is an increasing lack of diversity. Not necessarily a bad thing, but it does mean there is less to be surprised about.
@Pepillo: The build looks nice and clean, and I actually sort of like that its messy in the back. The solid side panel exists to hide the "work area" while the window shows what should be shown to the public. I woluld perhaps advice you to get some cheap zip ties so that you can clean up the back area and make it easier to work on if need be.


----------



## Ceadderman

Rainmaker91 said:


> I'm assuming you are refering to the distribution plates that encourages most builds to go down very similar routes and aestetic designs. I don't particularily mind the build, but there is an increasing lack of diversity. Not necessarily a bad thing, but it does mean there is less to be surprised about.
> 
> @Pepillo: The build looks nice and clean, and I actually sort of like that its messy in the back. The solid side panel exists to hide the "work area" while the window shows what should be shown to the public. I woluld perhaps advice you to get some cheap zip ties so that you can clean up the back area and make it easier to work on if need be.


Nope(although I must admit that I don't see the need to fill an Intake area with a solid mass blocking airflow.), actually I don't see a reason to run rigid(staunch Hardline enthusiast here :wheee: ) if only ever going to run straight runs. Kinda takes the fun out of it for me. I do get it. Not everyone feels competent enough to throw down some solid bends and connect them from block to block. But OMLord, how many "Professionals" are out there and not a single one of them puts out(or in rare instances) something that took time to bend. Fittings, fittings and fittings and just because you like fittings we made you a fitting to hold your fittings. :mellowsmi

I get it. Newbies(I am one on many occasions so yeah) who wish to watercool and don't wish to deal with the mercurial plasticizer issue and have no idea where to begin and so they run straight lines with gobs of fittings. I get it. If that's all you pretty much see in any given scene, you go with what works. 

My Black Snow build has been on the back burner due to funding and life. But tis the building season and my carts are ready to go. I've got about 20 fittings for my Parallel loop in my PPCs cart. Pump/Res Body and a Vario for the XL that I will be getting. I have the Radiators, but had intended to pick up another PE 360 so I could put one of the SE 360s in my old build and one in Snow with two PE Rads. Sadly PPCs EK Radiator fare runs on the thin side. Iirc the same thing happened last year and I had to wait forever to get my kit from them because I had them wait for a back ordered Radiator. Duke and the gang were real champs for holding onto the order until then. They certainly could've said no. I wouldn't hold it agin em. 

So yeah, Case order and GPU Bracket? Check!
Sleeving and Cable management PT I? Check!
Cable management PT II? Check!

Just counting down the minutes til I can get this build further off the ground. 

~Ceadder :drink:


----------



## Rainmaker91

Ceadderman said:


> Nope(although I must admit that I don't see the need to fill an Intake area with a solid mass blocking airflow.), actually I don't see a reason to run rigid(staunch Hardline enthusiast here :wheee: ) if only ever going to run straight runs. Kinda takes the fun out of it for me. I do get it. Not everyone feels competent enough to throw down some solid bends and connect them from block to block. But OMLord, how many "Professionals" are out there and not a single one of them puts out(or in rare instances) something that took time to bend. Fittings, fittings and fittings and just because you like fittings we made you a fitting to hold your fittings. :mellowsmi
> 
> I get it. Newbies(I am one on many occasions so yeah) who wish to watercool and don't wish to deal with the mercurial plasticizer issue and have no idea where to begin and so they run straight lines with gobs of fittings. I get it. If that's all you pretty much see in any given scene, you go with what works.
> 
> My Black Snow build has been on the back burner due to funding and life. But tis the building season and my carts are ready to go. I've got about 20 fittings for my Parallel loop in my PPCs cart. Pump/Res Body and a Vario for the XL that I will be getting. I have the Radiators, but had intended to pick up another PE 360 so I could put one of the SE 360s in my old build and one in Snow with two PE Rads. Sadly PPCs EK Radiator fare runs on the thin side. Iirc the same thing happened last year and I had to wait forever to get my kit from them because I had them wait for a back ordered Radiator. Duke and the gang were real champs for holding onto the order until then. They certainly could've said no. I wouldn't hold it agin em.
> 
> So yeah, Case order and GPU Bracket? Check!
> Sleeving and Cable management PT I? Check!
> Cable management PT II? Check!
> 
> Just counting down the minutes til I can get this build further off the ground.
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


I only thought straight runs with fittings was a thing with glass and plated pipes. However now that you mention it I do seem to see a lot of those builds around. As far as the distribution plates and all that, it's more that I see a lot of the originality that was found in everything from bargain-bin loops to the most expensive setups I have seen slowly dissapearing. Case fitted kits and the like removes all of that, even if I see the absolute practicality of it and I usually can't complain about the aestetics either. Anyway...

I'm still struggling with getting proper bends in for the copper pipe build that I'm doing at the moment (figures I go straight from soft tubing to copper pipes, because I just had to not follow the stream...). No matter how I do them they end all wavy on the inside of the bend. Part of me just wants to throw it all out and go ZMT instead.

Edit: Have you considered ordering directly from EK? they should offer international shipping, though they might be a slight bit more expensive than PPCS if you live in the US.


----------



## Ceadderman

Rainmaker91 said:


> I only thought straight runs with fittings was a thing with glass and plated pipes. However now that you mention it I do seem to see a lot of those builds around. As far as the distribution plates and all that, it's more that I see a lot of the originality that was found in everything from bargain-bin loops to the most expensive setups I have seen slowly dissapearing. Case fitted kits and the like removes all of that, even if I see the absolute practicality of it and I usually can't complain about the aestetics either. Anyway...
> 
> I'm still struggling with getting proper bends in for the copper pipe build that I'm doing at the moment (figures I go straight from soft tubing to copper pipes, because I just had to not follow the stream...). No matter how I do them they end all wavy on the inside of the bend. Part of me just wants to throw it all out and go ZMT instead.
> 
> Edit: Have you considered ordering directly from EK? they should offer international shipping, though they might be a slight bit more expensive than PPCS if you live in the US.


I would but PPCs has free shipping this go round. And St. Pats is next holiday for discount. I will have the funds by then am hoping. I'll just bend for both PE and SE in the SE location(s) so I can simply drain and refill after swapping out. I've got 12' of White Acrylic so I know I have enough to do that with some to spare should I nerf a bend or three.  lulz

~Ceader :drink:


----------



## Roboionator

Hi my build 

Case: Cooler master COSMOS C700M
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master
CPU: AMD Ryzen 3950X
Ram: GSKILL Trident Z NEO 3600 CL16
Graphics card: Zotac 1080TI Blower
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G3 with cable mod pro cables
HDD/SSD: Samsung 970 evo plus 3x 500gb, ADATA XPG SX8200 PRO 1000GB, 2x 500GB SSD
Fans: Noiseblocker eloop b14-ps
Watercooling
CPU/Mobo: EK-Quantum Momentum Aorus X570 Master D-RGB - Plexi
GPU: EK-FC GeForce GTX FE RGB - Nickel
Radiators: EK CoolStream 1 x CE 280, 1 x SE 420
Res/Pump: EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 240 D5 PWM D-RGB - Plexi
Tubing: EK 16mm PETG
Fittings: EK-Torque HTC-16 – Nickel
Coolant: EK-CryoFuel Clear (Premix 1000mL)


----------



## Soulpatch

Roboionator said:


> Hi my build
> 
> Case: Cooler master COSMOS C700M
> Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master
> CPU: AMD Ryzen 3950X
> Ram: GSKILL Trident Z NEO 3600 CL16
> Graphics card: Zotac 1080TI Blower
> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G3 with cable mod pro cables
> HDD/SSD: Samsung 970 evo plus 3x 500gb, ADATA XPG SX8200 PRO 1000GB, 2x 500GB SSD
> Fans: Noiseblocker eloop b14-ps
> Watercooling
> CPU/Mobo: EK-Quantum Momentum Aorus X570 Master D-RGB - Plexi
> GPU: EK-FC GeForce GTX FE RGB - Nickel
> Radiators: EK CoolStream 1 x CE 280, 1 x SE 420
> Res/Pump: EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 240 D5 PWM D-RGB - Plexi
> Tubing: EK 16mm PETG
> Fittings: EK-Torque HTC-16 – Nickel
> Coolant: EK-CryoFuel Clear (Premix 1000mL)



Love the tilted GPU build. I had originally wanted to do that in mine but the damn card was just too big. I couldn't even mount it traditionally because it extended out past the glass. So was stuck with a vertical mount whether I liked it or not lol But in a world of pre-made components it's good to see some original thinking from time to time.


----------



## rikkiepc

Re did my build 

[email protected]
1080Ti


----------



## Zurv

Oh, I think it it is time for a palate refresh. I will be the ugly one in the pix so everyone else looks pretty (not that most of you need help with you amazing clean looking systems.)

The Kingpin waterblocks REALLY restricted flow. Both in parallel and serial. In the end (and why it looks crazy in there), i had to do Y splitting.

Note on the case. I really like it. It is full EATX and fixes nicely in a AV case. (this is my gaming HTPC). It is a shame is cost so much and the screen on it is pointless (i disabled it.)


Case: Steiger Dynamics LEET
Motherboard: EVGA Dark x299
CPU: Intel 7900x @ 4.8ghz (soon to be replaced with a 10980xe)
Ram: GSKILL Trident Z 3600 CL16 @ 4000mhz
Graphics card: EVGA 2080 ti Kingpin @ 2175mhz
Graphics card: EVGA 2080 ti Kingpin @ 2175mhz
PSU: Corsair AX1600i (It NEEDs the power. A seasonic 1200w wasn't enough) 
HDD/SSD: Samsung 970 pro 1TB
HDD/SSD: Samsung 970 pro 1TB
HDD/SSD: Intel Optane 900p NVMe

Watercooling
CPU/Mobo: Optimus Foundation
GPU: K|NGP|N Hydro Copper (blah)
Radiators: Koolance ERM-3K3UC
Res/Pump: Dual pump (BP block with 2 swiftech's D5)
Flow: 6.5 LPM
Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced
Fittings: Random stuff. Mostly BP and Koolance
Coolant: Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant (blue)


----------



## Rainmaker91

Roboionator said:


> Hi my build
> 
> Case: Cooler master COSMOS C700M
> Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master
> CPU: AMD Ryzen 3950X
> Ram: GSKILL Trident Z NEO 3600 CL16
> Graphics card: Zotac 1080TI Blower
> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G3 with cable mod pro cables
> HDD/SSD: Samsung 970 evo plus 3x 500gb, ADATA XPG SX8200 PRO 1000GB, 2x 500GB SSD
> Fans: Noiseblocker eloop b14-ps
> Watercooling
> CPU/Mobo: EK-Quantum Momentum Aorus X570 Master D-RGB - Plexi
> GPU: EK-FC GeForce GTX FE RGB - Nickel
> Radiators: EK CoolStream 1 x CE 280, 1 x SE 420
> Res/Pump: EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 240 D5 PWM D-RGB - Plexi
> Tubing: EK 16mm PETG
> Fittings: EK-Torque HTC-16 – Nickel
> Coolant: EK-CryoFuel Clear (Premix 1000mL)


Super clean build there. Loving the tilted GPU, it goes great with the lines of the case.



rikkiepc said:


> Re did my build
> 
> [email protected]
> 1080Ti


Loving those lines in the front between the rads, it's cool when you can make something boring like that in to something super cool.



rikkiepc said:


> Re did my build
> 
> [email protected]
> 1080Ti


Not all builds need to be an art piece, sometimes practicality comes in front. Especially when you have a cool case like that for a TV setup, I mean what is that thing? It looks like a small rack closet with a 4u installed, just way more stylish.



Soulpatch said:


> Love the tilted GPU build. I had originally wanted to do that in mine but the damn card was just too big. I couldn't even mount it traditionally because it extended out past the glass. So was stuck with a vertical mount whether I liked it or not lol But in a world of pre-made components it's good to see some original thinking from time to time.


To be clear I don't mind that people use the case specific kits, they generally look great and cut down on cost and are way more practical. It does however limit the diversity between builds which also makes it less exiting to see (I mean they are still super cool and all, but after you see 10 of the same build the exitment sort or dwindles off a bit).

It used to be you had to hack apart a case to fit even the most basic loops, not saying that is a great thing but it does become a breeding ground for creative soloutions.


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## rikkiepc

Roboionator said:


> Hi my build


Hey, you're build of the month @ guru3d 
Great build!


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## Roboionator

rikkiepc said:


> Hey, you're build of the month @ guru3d
> Great build!


thank you


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## Soulpatch

rikkiepc said:


> Re did my build
> 
> [email protected]
> 1080Ti



Looks really sharp. nice clean lines and it's good to see runs with multiple bends instead of all those elbows that people tend to throw in. If you want that many elbows, run glass. Acrylic or petg is designed to be bent and get creative with. Love the green as well, what company is that? Dye or suspended? I'm just running clear because I've read too many horror stories on anybody running anything colored for too long. The only time I've ever run anything with color to it was glycol 20 years ago lol 

I've finally finished my rebuild including the new cables/lighting. So should take some new pics to post as well. Seeing yours was a good reminder lol


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## Soulpatch

Finally the new cables are in, the last of the lighting and software tweaked for the monitor and it's complete. Having custom cables not only adds to the look but they are SOOOOOO much easier on routing and cleaning it all up in the back. Still debating on a small reservoir where the case badge is located or maybe build a custom one to go across just under the rad fans.


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## rikkiepc

Soulpatch said:


> Looks really sharp. nice clean lines and it's good to see runs with multiple bends instead of all those elbows that people tend to throw in.


Thanks! I just go with what seems the most logical/efficient without using fittings. I don't like to see a fitting where a bend could be  I could't think of any other logical way to make this tube work so I had to do my first multiple bend. 



> Love the green as well, what company is that?


It's this one https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-acid-green-premix-1000ml

Your build is also very solid! That bottom tube would have taken me a very long time I think 
Just curious...what's that small (80mm) fan for?


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## Soulpatch

rikkiepc said:


> Thanks! I just go with what seems the most logical/efficient without using fittings. I don't like to see a fitting where a bend could be  I could't think of any other logical way to make this tube work so I had to do my first multiple bend.
> 
> 
> 
> It's this one https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-acid-green-premix-1000ml
> 
> Your build is also very solid! That bottom tube would have taken me a very long time I think
> Just curious...what's that small (80mm) fan for?



I used to be a master fabricator/mechanical engineer so tube bending I've had quite a bit of practice at lol Most people don't notice, but the inlet to the CPU block has a compound bend to it as well. 90 into the block and then a 12 degree to angle it down to set the spacing to match the return. The MB originally came with a small 40mm fan and a bracket that sat over the VRM. But the design was bad (fan loud as hell and half of it was sitting over the decorative shroud on the left. Used some left-over acrylic (small monitor) and built a bracket to hold a 60mm pwm fan directly over the VRM. Think it's right around 5db now and is blowing 4 times the amount of air. Used OCCT when I was over-clocking and the VRM barely went past 40c under full load after an hour.


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## Soulpatch

Zurv said:


> Oh, I think it it is time for a palate refresh. I will be the ugly one in the pix so everyone else looks pretty (not that most of you need help with you amazing clean looking systems.)
> 
> The Kingpin waterblocks REALLY restricted flow. Both in parallel and serial. In the end (and why it looks crazy in there), i had to do Y splitting.
> 
> Note on the case. I really like it. It is full EATX and fixes nicely in a AV case. (this is my gaming HTPC). It is a shame is cost so much and the screen on it is pointless (i disabled it.)
> 
> 
> Case: Steiger Dynamics LEET
> Motherboard: EVGA Dark x299
> CPU: Intel 7900x @ 4.8ghz (soon to be replaced with a 10980xe)
> Ram: GSKILL Trident Z 3600 CL16 @ 4000mhz
> Graphics card: EVGA 2080 ti Kingpin @ 2175mhz
> Graphics card: EVGA 2080 ti Kingpin @ 2175mhz
> PSU: Corsair AX1600i (It NEEDs the power. A seasonic 1200w wasn't enough)
> HDD/SSD: Samsung 970 pro 1TB
> HDD/SSD: Samsung 970 pro 1TB
> HDD/SSD: Intel Optane 900p NVMe
> 
> Watercooling
> CPU/Mobo: Optimus Foundation
> GPU: K|NGP|N Hydro Copper (blah)
> Radiators: Koolance ERM-3K3UC
> Res/Pump: Dual pump (BP block with 2 swiftech's D5)
> Flow: 6.5 LPM
> Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced
> Fittings: Random stuff. Mostly BP and Koolance
> Coolant: Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant (blue)



Pretty sweet! Guessing you built it as a strictly gaming system since it's tied into the entertainment center? That's actually a pretty good way to go since I'm not a console fan either. When you're packing such an extensive system into something like the AV box, pretty is never really a factor. Although here's a thought... Maybe next time do a wall build. You'll be able to spread it out, run some clean lines and led lighting...make it a piece of art to accompany the entertainment system. But all in all a good job on cramming it all in there. With the water cooling you won't have to worry too much about a perfect case airflow.


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## Steven Stacy

Here is my 1st water cooled rig. I still need to clean it up, however, I had to re-arrange it so many times that I've relied on bunch of fittings. I'll have a crap load of fittings left over with so many changes. 
A few fittings that's still in the build probably will eventually go so it can look cleaner.

Edit:
I moved the 2nd pump and added an extension to the fill port to eliminate the air gulp in the distro.
Had some great info on another thread.
Skupples gave me the idea to check my air intake with high rpm from the pump. Sure enough air was being gulped under load. I didn't notice it with white opaque coolant. I'm sticking with distilled from now on.


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## MoDeNa

Dagamus NM said:


> Looks great. What was your camera/lens setup for the last image?


Many thanks! For this shot I used the following gear:

Nikon Z7
Nikkor 85 mm f1.8 S-line

The EXIF data is:

1/13
f 4.0
ISO 400


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## MoDeNa

Pepillo said:


> My first hard tube build on new Lian Li Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL. Fittings and tube Corsair Hydro X, EK 360 PE and SE radiators, EK O11D Distro-Plate G1 with DDC 3.2, EK Velocity CPU block, Bykski Fullcover for Aourus 2080 TI, and Thermaltake Pacific Sensor:
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Nice setup and nice towel too XD


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## Pepillo

MoDeNa said:


> Nice setup and nice towel too XD



Thank you Modena, I'm glad to read you around here, I haven't read you in N3D in a while


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## Ceadderman

MoDeNa said:


> Nice setup and nice towel too XD


Hey man take it easy on the mobile users.

Just pick a good photo file and spoiler tag the rest to minimize them.

:cheers:

~Ceadder :drink:


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## Rainmaker91

Ceadderman said:


> Hey man take it easy on the mobile users.
> 
> Just pick a good photo file and spoiler tag the rest to minimize them.
> 
> :cheers:
> 
> ~Ceadder :drink:


How do you do that though? After OCN changed the way the posting system works a few years back I have seriously not been able to do a bunch of stuff that I used to. As far as I understand the new system I have to add all pictures as thumbnails and at the bottom of the post, yet what I used to be able to do was mix them in with the text and use spoler taks where I needed.


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## GuitarFreak

I re-did my loop a little while ago.


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## justanoldman

Been out of building for a long time, last time I used Swiftech for my water cooling setup.
Can anyone give me recommendations for the brands people like today? Can I use one brand for everything, pump, cpu and gpu block, radiators, fittings, etc. or is it best to go with different brands for different things?

Need to cool a 9900k, Maximus XI hero, EVGA 2700 super, in a Lian Li O11 xl. Thinking of doing a 360 on top and bottom to cool the cpu and gpu.

Just looking to put something together that is reliable and works well, not overly concerned with how it looks. Would love any suggestions people have, and whether distribution plates and hard tubing (which didn’t exist years ago when I did my last builds) would be worth it for me or not. Thanks.


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## Rainmaker91

justanoldman said:


> Been out of building for a long time, last time I used Swiftech for my water cooling setup.
> Can anyone give me recommendations for the brands people like today? Can I use one brand for everything, pump, cpu and gpu block, radiators, fittings, etc. or is it best to go with different brands for different things?
> 
> Need to cool a 9900k, Maximus XI hero, EVGA 2700 super, in a Lian Li O11 xl. Thinking of doing a 360 on top and bottom to cool the cpu and gpu.
> 
> Just looking to put something together that is reliable and works well, not overly concerned with how it looks. Would love any suggestions people have, and whether distribution plates and hard tubing (which didn’t exist years ago when I did my last builds) would be worth it for me or not. Thanks.


If all you want to do is having a performance no frills build then I can come with some recommendations. Though to answer your question in regards to mixing and matching... You could go for one manufacturer for everything, but unless you specifically want to order directly from the manufacturer and all in one go then there is really no benefit in doing so.

A few suggestions for a no frills build though:
-HWLabs radiators
- EKWB ZMT or Tygon Norprene soft tubing (10/16 size is the least stress)
- Few have as good of a reputation on compression fittings as Bitspower, though any will do really. In fact you can get really decent fittings for cheap to, go for painted non nickel plated fittings for least issues though.
- Blocks... many choices, and honestly it really doesn't matter who you choose. However going for either a copper/acetal or a pure copper block is going to be the least stress. I really like blocks by Watercool.de, and Aquacomputer, though there are many good manufacturers out there. However my experience with Watercool.de in terms of service and quality of work is by far the best I have ever had while doing this hobby.
- 140mm fans/radiators are more efficient as far as cooling surface and silence goes, but if you specifically want the 011XL then 2x360mm radiators is the best choice. I can't speak to wheter or not the extra wide radiators of HWLabs is going to fit or not though, but Alphacool radiators are a good option if they won't for ease of use.
- If you specifically want THE best 120mm fans and budget is of no concern then Noctua NF-A12 are they best option at the moment. They are however expensive, and if you want to cut cost then the dual packs of Corsair ML120 are a really good buy for the money. Terrific fans (just not as good as NF-A12), without the "fancy" look of the single pack fans but with all the performance.
- Going for a glass reservoir (EKWB and XSPC has some well priced ones) will allow you to go for industrial coolants which have a far longer shelf life if you want to do less maintenance on you build (Koolance 702, or Mayhems XT-1 Nuke are good options, with XT-1 Nuke having a 5 year life cycle)
- Pumps... go for what can fit, though unless you want to go for a dual pump setup then a res/pump combo is the most practical. D5 and DDC are still the best alternatives out there, with Eheim also making some really decent pumps as well.
- Distribution blocks will make hard-line easier, and if you like the look that is nice to. However they are always in acrylic which limits the coolants available to you.
- You can use nickel in you build if you want, but a pure copper/brass loop will give you least issues. Only thing to be sure about when using nickel in you build is to never have any silver in you build at the same time. Silver + nickel makes a galvanic mess.

Given that you have done this before I assume most of the stuff I wrote is not exactly news to you, but the simple fact is that the things that are "new" since you did this mostly comes down to pure aesthetics in builds. So hard-line piping, RGB, glass, distro blocks... and whatever are mostly just for looks. A simple pure copper+norprene/ZMT+D5/DDC+industrial coolant build is going to be the least amount of work and give you the same performance if not better.

Edit: Just correcting the worst of my writing errors


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## Fluxmaven

justanoldman said:


> Been out of building for a long time, last time I used Swiftech for my water cooling setup.
> Can anyone give me recommendations for the brands people like today? Can I use one brand for everything, pump, cpu and gpu block, radiators, fittings, etc. or is it best to go with different brands for different things?
> 
> Need to cool a 9900k, Maximus XI hero, EVGA 2700 super, in a Lian Li O11 xl. Thinking of doing a 360 on top and bottom to cool the cpu and gpu.
> 
> Just looking to put something together that is reliable and works well, not overly concerned with how it looks. Would love any suggestions people have, and whether distribution plates and hard tubing (which didn’t exist years ago when I did my last builds) would be worth it for me or not. Thanks.



Rainmaker pretty much hit the nail on the head, but I'll toss in my :2cents:

I don't think disto plates or hardline are worth it. Added effort and cost for no real performance gain. 

I also am a longtime Swiftech fan. Their Maelstrom D5 V2 is a very nice looking unit and we have some members here that have had great luck with them. If I didn't already have 2 Heatkiller D5 combos, I would strongly consider one. 

The new Corsair line uses Hardware Labs radiators, you may be able to walk into your Microcenter and grab those off the shelf cheaper than getting them shipped from any of the popular watercooling sites. 

Speaking of sites. Performance PCs recently redid their website and it's kind of a mess, but they still do sales for every random holiday and have a big inventory of parts. Mod my Mods tends to have better prices on Heatkiller parts and Mayhems fluids. FrozenCPU appears to be back under different management.


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## justanoldman

Thanks Rainmaker91 and Fluxmaven.

I hate to admit this, but I guess I have to ask. I have two computers that are 7 years old. Both use the Swiftech H220 of old. One just cools the cpu, one I made a loop to cool the gpu and added some rads. I have never fully drained, or done any maintenance at all except once in awhile add some liquid when I can hear it getting low. Zero work, perfect performance, no problems. All from distilled plus Liquid Utopia. Is that weird or to be expected? Also I guess it sort of proves that overclocking, de lidding, and using liquid ultra tim does in fact last a long time, at least in these two cases.


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## Rainmaker91

Fluxmaven said:


> Rainmaker pretty much hit the nail on the head, but I'll toss in my :2cents:
> 
> I don't think disto plates or hardline are worth it. Added effort and cost for no real performance gain.
> 
> I also am a longtime Swiftech fan. Their Maelstrom D5 V2 is a very nice looking unit and we have some members here that have had great luck with them. If I didn't already have 2 Heatkiller D5 combos, I would strongly consider one.
> 
> The new Corsair line uses Hardware Labs radiators, you may be able to walk into your Microcenter and grab those off the shelf cheaper than getting them shipped from any of the popular watercooling sites.
> 
> Speaking of sites. Performance PCs recently redid their website and it's kind of a mess, but they still do sales for every random holiday and have a big inventory of parts. Mod my Mods tends to have better prices on Heatkiller parts and Mayhems fluids. FrozenCPU appears to be back under different management.


Good to know I haven't completely lost it 



justanoldman said:


> Thanks Rainmaker91 and Fluxmaven.
> 
> I hate to admit this, but I guess I have to ask. I have two computers that are 7 years old. Both use the Swiftech H220 of old. One just cools the cpu, one I made a loop to cool the gpu and added some rads. I have never fully drained, or done any maintenance at all except once in awhile add some liquid when I can hear it getting low. Zero work, perfect performance, no problems. All from distilled plus Liquid Utopia. Is that weird or to be expected? Also I guess it sort of proves that overclocking, de lidding, and using liquid ultra tim does in fact last a long time, at least in these two cases.


A point I forgot to add in the last post: If you have not yet decided on a case then I would like to suggest that you look at some from Phanteks. Most of their "cheap" line of cases (Enthoo Luxe, Enthoo Pro, Eclipse 600) offer support for a 1x420mm radiator + 1x280mm radiator setup. This will actually give you a larger surface area in total, and will allow you to use 140mm fans for better air flow at any given noise level. It's also going to be a more conventional setup if that is your thing

Now on to your question: Honestly... you got lucky. While something like liquid utopia will help, it won't be able to stifle off gunk build-up and algae growth for more than maybe 2 years. After that point most builds will start seeing minor issues, though major ones won’t actually appear until the gunk blocks your pump or the fins in the blocks are completely clogged. It will happen in any loop, it's just a question of time. Utilizing industrial coolant will alleviate the algae build-up for a longer time than most coolants (and they should usually be disposed off by a bit more care as well due to it), and making sure you have as few different metals in the loop as possible (one of the good things about your current setup actually) will prolong the time it takes for galvanic corrosion to become an issue (if ever). Then there is the tubing, the reason I recommend ZMT or Norprene is due to the plasticiser issues that nearly every kind of tubing has to some degree. Norprene/ZMT are simply made differently and don't need plasticiser to be flexible, which will greatly prolong the time it takes for gunk build-up to become and issue (if ever, bet no solution is perfect). Plasticiser is one of the reasons why acrylic/PET/glass/metal pipes have become so popular in modern builds, you can get clear tubing without the issue of plasticiser. Though the main push for it is as most things the aesthetic tone it gives to a build, still that doesn't mean that at least experienced builders don't appreciate the benefit of not having to deal with plasticiser.

Feel free to ask any questions you want, I try to help if I can. If for some reason I don't have the answers then there are also far more expereinced people in this thread than me that also pich in when they can.


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## munternet

rikkiepc said:


> Re did my build
> 
> [email protected]
> 1080Ti


I'm really digging this build. Nice and clean and easy hand access.
I know a lot of thought goes into making something like this look so simple.
Good job :thumb:


----------



## justanoldman

So I already have the 9900x, Maximus XI hero, 2070 super, and Lian Li O11 xl case.

If I go with the Swiftech Maelstrom D5 V2, which size radiator should I get?
Can I just hook it to the back right side panel so it is suspended? Or should it sit on something?

Would the Swiftech radiators be ok? They have three types, Hydrae gt, MCR extreme, MCR quiet power. Any idea which of the three would be good for me?

Would the EK ZMT matte black 3/8 by 5/8 tubing be good?

I have had good luck with the EK water block for the gpu I got for my old computer. Would EK be the place to go for the water blocks for the cpu and gpu? Or some other brand for the two blocks?

I am a little confused by the mixed metals issue. I definitely want to keep it simple, so what blocks and fittings should I get so there is no issue with mixing?


----------



## J7SC

Did some maintenance on my sig rig only to realize that it doesn't need maintenance  Coolant level in the two reservoirs have barely dropped over a year (a couple of mm only). Coolant is my standard mix of Thermaltake Coolant 1000 blue and distilled water; tubes are a combo of copper and LRT Primoflex, blocks are nickel-plated and rads are bronze. I have always been very happy re. my cooling liquid but down the line, I might want to switch to s.th. a bit more up-to-date (non pastels). 

What are the best options ? Mayhem ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

justanoldman said:


> So I already have the 9900x, Maximus XI hero, 2070 super, and Lian Li O11 xl case.
> 
> If I go with the Swiftech Maelstrom D5 V2, which size radiator should I get?
> Can I just hook it to the back right side panel so it is suspended? Or should it sit on something?
> 
> Would the Swiftech radiators be ok? They have three types, Hydrae gt, MCR extreme, MCR quiet power. Any idea which of the three would be good for me?
> 
> Would the EK ZMT matte black 3/8 by 5/8 tubing be good?
> 
> I have had good luck with the EK water block for the gpu I got for my old computer. Would EK be the place to go for the water blocks for the cpu and gpu? Or some other brand for the two blocks?
> 
> I am a little confused by the mixed metals issue. I definitely want to keep it simple, so what blocks and fittings should I get so there is no issue with mixing?


I'll put together a list for you with what I would recomend, as I understand it ease of use is the priority rather than the aestetics. Do you have any restrictions as to where you want to buy the stuff? Import tax and whatnot can be important depending on where you live.

Could you please list whatever parts you already have, as far as the cooling stuff goes (if you want to reuse old fans, blocks or radiators or whatnot).

Edit: I forgot to actually answer your questions:
- Just get 2 360mm radiators, the case that you have can fit a thicker radiator in the bottom and it would be tragic not to utilize that space. So I would go for a 60mm radiator in the bottom of the case and 30-450mm thick radiator in the top. That way you get maximum surface area for your setup.
- Swiftech radiators havent been a top performer for at least a decade, so they wouldn't exactly be my top pick. HWLabs will fit in that case and you haev hight to spare so my pick would be 1x HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis GTX 360 and 1x HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360. The reason the HWLabs radiators are so good is that they technically don't adhere to the standard width of a 120mm sized radiator, so there is actually a significantly larger surface area than what normaly would be available on a 120mm radiator. However if you abolutely want Swiftech for whatever reason, any is fine. Just go for something thick in the bottom of the case and something under 45mm thickness in the top, that way you get maximum out of your XL case.
- EKWB ZMT 3/8ID, 5/8 OD is the 10/16 tubing I was refering to (it's just metric instead of imperial). So yes that would be the best soft tubing available at the moment (Tygon Norprene is the same, but has letters on the tube so it doen't look as good. Other than that it's the same stuff)
- EKWB make decent blocks, and if you have obscure motherboards or graphics cards they might be the only one actually delivering a block for it. I would still argue that Watercool and Aquacomputer make better blocks, but if you want to go with something familiar then EKWB is fine.
- As far as mixed metals go you want to stay close on the nobility scale, so copper and brass are best, but you can add nickel to the mix if you want (the main benefit is the silver finish and that the blocks won't tarnish as easily). Keep in mind that if you do use nickel in the loop the likelyhood of galvantic corrosion is slightly higher, though still not massive when used with a good coolant. Only metals you really really don't want to mix is nickel and silver, those give some nasty reactions. So the best long term loops are just pure copper and brass/bronze (brass contains sink, and bronze contains tin which is already in use in all radiators. Fittings are nearly always brass with either paint or plating on them)


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## justanoldman

Thanks Rainmaker91, you are really making it rain with help around here .

I have the computer up and running, so I have the intel i9-9900k, 2070 gpu which is 08G-P4-3277-KR, and Lian Li O11 dynamic xl rog case.

The guy at the store told me to get 6 Corsair ML 120 Magnetic Levitation 120mm Case Fan, so I could use them as case fans now, and radiator fans when I set up the water cooling. So I guess I am set for fans.

But won't be using anything else from old builds, so need everything except fans I guess. I am in the U.S. so would just order from whichever store or manufacturer is convenient.


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## Rainmaker91

justanoldman said:


> Thanks Rainmaker91, you are really making it rain with help around here .
> 
> I have the computer up and running, so I have the intel i9-9900k, 2070 gpu which is 08G-P4-3277-KR, and Lian Li O11 dynamic xl rog case.
> 
> The guy at the store told me to get 6 Corsair ML 120 Magnetic Levitation 120mm Case Fan, so I could use them as case fans now, and radiator fans when I set up the water cooling. So I guess I am set for fans.
> 
> But won't be using anything else from old builds, so need everything except fans I guess. I am in the U.S. so would just order from whichever store or manufacturer is convenient.


Great then I'll put together a list at performance PCs for you, I have great experience with that store even when importing stuff over the Atlantic it can be THE best alternative. As far as those fans go, I hope you got the dual packs. Not that the regular ones are bad they just const twice as much with no added performance. They are great though, I have 16 of them for my build for example.

I also updated my previous post with some answers to your questions, but I'll put together a list for you in the next hour or so that should be ready to buy. Feel free to make changes tough, as personal preference is as important as anything else in this hobby.


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## Rainmaker91

Ok, so I set up an excel sheet for you. Now I had originally planned on going only copper and acetal, but the GPU block was only available nickel plated. So there is a nickel alternative and an acrylic alternative. I also added some notes at the end with my thoughts.

There is also a proposed drain system added at the end for another 30$ if you don't have your own solution for that already (I can do a mockup for you to show how I planned it fi you don't see my logic).

In general the nickel system is prefered as you can use XT-1 nuke and other harsher fluids that have lower maintenance and longer system life.

You can find it here

Hope it fits the bill, and as always don't hesitate to ask.


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## Pepillo

justanoldman said:


> Been out of building for a long time, last time I used Swiftech for my water cooling setup.
> Can anyone give me recommendations for the brands people like today? Can I use one brand for everything, pump, cpu and gpu block, radiators, fittings, etc. or is it best to go with different brands for different things?
> 
> Need to cool a 9900k, Maximus XI hero, EVGA 2700 super, in a Lian Li O11 xl. Thinking of doing a 360 on top and bottom to cool the cpu and gpu.
> 
> Just looking to put something together that is reliable and works well, not overly concerned with how it looks. Would love any suggestions people have, and whether distribution plates and hard tubing (which didn’t exist years ago when I did my last builds) would be worth it for me or not. Thanks.


I've recently built a complete liquid cooling on that Lian Li. I am not an expert, it is my first assembly with hard tube, but as I made a PDF with all the components used I attach it in case it serves as a reference.


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## iamjanco

MB rebuild update:

Cooling platform moving along, working on the ATX breakout/psu integration. Using a Seasonic 850 Prime Titanium for the purpose. Will swap out the cheap Hong Hua fan Seasonic's been putting in these units for something more robust. Probably a somewhat equivalent (albeit louder) Noctua like the 3-pin Noctua NF-A14:

















The bench itself gets a separate psu.

Anyway, apologies for the lousy images, but it's what you get until I'm done rebuilding.


----------



## J7SC

iamjanco said:


> MB rebuild update:
> 
> Cooling platform moving along, working on the ATX breakout/psu integration. Using a Seasonic 850 Prime Titanium for the purpose. Will swap out the cheap Hong Hua fan Seasonic's been putting in these units for something more robust. Probably a somewhat equivalent (albeit louder) Noctua like the 3-pin Noctua NF-A14:
> 
> View attachment 331332
> 
> 
> View attachment 331334
> 
> 
> The bench itself gets a separate psu.
> 
> Anyway, apologies for the lousy images, but it's what you get until I'm done rebuilding.


 
:thumb: Ignition in 10...9...8...7...6...5...


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

*New and Improved Cooling*

Hey guys, its definitely been a while since I posted to this thread. Wanted to share the end results of my dalliance into acrylic bending to replace the copper from my last loop.
I did make some changes apart from the tubing. Replaced the rbg barrow cpu block with a heatkiller iv, upgraded from a 1080 to an rtx 2080 super of the same evga varience, as well as added a 280mm radiator to the front of my monstrous corsair 900D to allow for expansion when I decide to add a second 2080 for folding purposes. 

In the attached images you will see the before and the after of my endeavors. Please keep in mind that this was my very first attempt with acrylic and neglected to account for too long or too short of a run. And the fact that I did not order enough acrylic to make everything picture perfect; however, I am very satisfied with the end results. 

:cheers:


----------



## Soulpatch

HardheadedMurphy said:


> Hey guys, its definitely been a while since I posted to this thread. Wanted to share the end results of my dalliance into acrylic bending to replace the copper from my last loop.
> I did make some changes apart from the tubing. Replaced the rbg barrow cpu block with a heatkiller iv, upgraded from a 1080 to an rtx 2080 super of the same evga varience, as well as added a 280mm radiator to the front of my monstrous corsair 900D to allow for expansion when I decide to add a second 2080 for folding purposes.
> 
> In the attached images you will see the before and the after of my endeavors. Please keep in mind that this was my very first attempt with acrylic and neglected to account for too long or too short of a run. And the fact that I did not order enough acrylic to make everything picture perfect; however, I am very satisfied with the end results.
> 
> :cheers:



Holy ****, haven't seen copper runs with parker fittings in YEARS!!! That's the way we used to do it 20 years ago. Good job on the original runs and it looks great with the acrylic. Was a nice change of pace to see that old school "machine" type of look again. After building my first liquid in 20+ years I had to go back and dig out actual photographs and remember some great times with our first lan parties (think unreal tournament old LOL).
Machine looks great and love the new fittings, who made those? Like the cut-out look to them.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

A complete list of the fittings and accessories added to my build are as follows:

18x Monsoon Free Center Hard-line compression fittings 3/8 x 1/2
1X Barrow Aqua-pipe Reservoir fill tube
1X Alphacool Flow indicator with rpm signal (plexi)
2x Bitspower Matte Black "T" block fittings
4x Bykski Female to Female 90's
4x EK-AF Extender - Rotary-M-M
1x Barrow G1/4 " 15mm High Transparent Acrylic Double Teeth (tapped acrylic tube)

Heatkiller IV Basic (Acrylic, clean, copper)
Magicool Slim Profile 280mm Radiator front mounted
Bykski 50mm Reservoir Mounting brackets

Replaced all standard mounting screws for Mobo to standoffs with 6-32 x 1/4 ModMyToys Socket Head Cap
Loop is filled with Mayhems Pastel Coolant - UV White

Loop flow is Res > Pump > 280mm rad > 360mm rad > cpu > gpu > res

My next project for this build will be modding the lower pci brackets to hold a vertical GPU mount to completely show off the water-block on my EVGA RTX 2080 Super FTW3 Hydro-copper. I had considered a new case; but I love my 900D way to much to replace it LOL.


----------



## LazarusIV

Reposted since I made a new thread on accident! :doh:

Hey everyone! After a brief custom wc experience with my FX-8350 I had moved back to big air... then used big air with my R7 1700 and finally with my R9 3900X. Then I got this idea about a custom loop that would maximize cooling potential (secondary objective) while keeping costs as low as possible (primary objective). After mulling it over for a while and building and scrapping loop after loop at Performance PCs, I finally came up with an idea that I liked and I just couldn't stop thinking about it. So, after my last deployment, I decided to splurge a bit and try it out... especially after I found a Radeon VII on eBay for less than $500 AND a hugely discounted EK-Vector block for it!

Here's the component list:
Swiftech Apogee Drive II CPU / Pump combo (MCP 35X)
EK-Vector Radeon VII Copper+Acetal Full Cover Waterblock
Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis L-series 420 Extreme Radiator
Swiftech 3/8" Black Chrome Barbs (with ultra classy black zip ties)
Swiftech 3/8" T-Fitting (for T-line, that's right... no reservoir!)
Swiftech 1/2" Barb Remote Fill Port
XSPC EC6 Coolant
PrimoChill Advanced LRT 3/8x5/8 White Tubing

If I do have issues bleeding air or anything like that, I have a reservoir picked out that I will replace the T-line with and mount horizontally at the top of the case. I may do that at my first maintenance cycle since I'll be draining it anyway, we'll see. So far there's no air in the loop that I can tell and I haven't heard any bubbles moving around since I got it up and running last Friday 3/6.

Pictures are attached:


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

edit: double post cause my internet wont load this thread


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

big thanks to all the people who answered my questions here when reddit wouldn't! 

I know I'm a pleb cause my hardware aint the best, and I didn't do a fancy hardline build like all the cool kids, but im super happy to have finally transitioned from a hyper T2 cooler to this lol, can't get past 5.2ghz because I'm too scared to go over 1.4 vcore currently at 1.365 (not sure how safe that is lol)

most of the waterloop was second hand parts from a friend that works at microcenter who gave up on water-cooling, so I only had to buy a reservoir, fittings, mounting hardware, fans and tidbits haha 

in fact, everything in my setup was second hand other than the pc I built which has second hand water-cooling, capture card and a sound card, and power supply lol :h34r-smi


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not bad, and I pick ZMT over acrylic any day of the week - due to ease of use and maintenance. We all gotta start somewhere :thumb:


----------



## ruffhi

Someone had a build that included a manual flow meter ... anyone remember who's it was and if there was a build log?


----------



## Fluxmaven

ObiWanShinob1 said:


> big thanks to all the people who answered my questions here when reddit wouldn't!


Reddit can be really toxic. Also, a lot of those "fancy" hardline builds are pretty meh performance wise. Usually due to using over 9000 90° angle fittings paired with a weak DDC clone pump. Then topping it off with under-performing RGB fans.

With a D5 and ZMT, you have a very reliable, quiet, easy to maintain loop. 

I'm diggin the metal pipe desk. It's a shame you don't have a bit more space to throw a wider top on it though.


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

DarthBaggins said:


> Not bad, and I pick ZMT over acrylic any day of the week - due to ease of use and maintenance. We all gotta start somewhere :thumb:





Fluxmaven said:


> Reddit can be really toxic. Also, a lot of those "fancy" hardline builds are pretty meh performance wise. Usually due to using over 9000 90° angle fittings paired with a weak DDC clone pump. Then topping it off with under-performing RGB fans.
> 
> With a D5 and ZMT, you have a very reliable, quiet, easy to maintain loop.
> 
> I'm diggin the metal pipe desk. It's a shame you don't have a bit more space to throw a wider top on it though.


thanks for the kind words guys 

I Think ZMT is awesome. its basically mini car radiator hoses lol I looked it up it's the same material. no leeching here for mee!

The desk will be refurbished one day when I move to a better place heh, it's going to have a much better top put on it when I got the space and be repainted a better color! I would love to get a riverwood top for it one day  apartment life though atm so can't fit much more in the living room heh


----------



## InfoSeeker

ruffhi said:


> Someone had a build that included a manual flow meter ... anyone remember who's it was and if there was a build log?



Manual = analog?


----------



## J7SC

...dug around for some old pics for advice in another thread, and realized that there's a certain degree of 'thesis, antithesis and synthesis' in my builds progression. :thinking:

I used to go for the blood-red look, then went to black, white and silver, and now I'm apparently zeroing in on purple - fate ? :headscrat


----------



## iamjanco

ruffhi said:


> Someone had a build that included a manual flow meter ... anyone remember who's it was and if there was a build log?


Manual as in rotameter? If so, there's been a few on OCN over the years. Here's one example:

[Build Log] *'DownUnder' SMA8 Build - Déjà vu*


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quick question: Do Koolance still make the best QDC fittings? I know they have the best variety for sure (with panel mounted being an important one). Also QD3 or QD4?

I'm still going to finish my current build with copper pipes, I'm just fairly certain that with the very first upgrade I will swap it all out for ZMT and QDC fittings for the blocks.


----------



## cosmomobay

Hi All, I have being a member since 2013. I haven't posted much. I have just finish upgrading my old rig, upgraded to EVGA RTX 2080TI Vertical installed Water Cooled.


----------



## Rainmaker91

cosmomobay said:


> Hi All, I have being a member since 2013. I haven't posted much. I have just finish upgrading my old rig, upgraded to EVGA RTX 2080TI Vertical installed Water Cooled.


Looks good, got some tricky bends in there.


----------



## ruffhi

InfoSeeker said:


> Manual = analog?


Yep.



iamjanco said:


> Manual as in rotameter? If so, there's been a few on OCN over the years. Here's one example:
> 
> [Build Log] *'DownUnder' SMA8 Build - Déjà vu*


Excellent - thanks guys. That was exactly the build I was thinking of.

I have two flow meetings ... barrowch and aqau and the report different numbers



> I've been playing with pump and adding my two 360 radiators to my 'loop' and flow increased ... all numbers in liters per minute ...
> 
> Single pump, no radiator ... Barrow 7.2, aqua 4.2
> Single pump, 2 x radiator ... Barrow 9.7, aqua 5.7
> Double pump, 2 x radiator straight from pumps ... Barrow 13.4, aqua 8.2
> Double pump, 2 x radiator 90º snake from pumps ... Barrow 13.0, aqua 8.0 (~3% drop from straight)
> Double pump, 2 x radiator hard 90º from pumps ... Barrow 12.8, aqua 7.8 (~5% drop from straight)


Was thinking of throwing in a 3rd flow meeting.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ruffhi said:


> I have two flow meetings ... barrowch and aqau and the report different numbers
> 
> Was thinking of throwing in a 3rd flow meeting.



I have an aquacomputer High Flow Sensor, and a Dwyer Rotameter in the loop and they agree on flow rate.


----------



## iamjanco

ruffhi said:


> Yep.
> 
> Excellent - thanks guys. That was exactly the build I was thinking of.
> 
> I have two flow meetings ... barrowch and aqau and the report different numbers
> 
> Was thinking of throwing in a 3rd flow meeting.


Yeah, that's probably the best way to gauge the accuracy of your digital flowmeters, if you think they're suspect. I've got five King rotameters on hand myself, as well as a Dwyer 490-1 digital manometer good for 0-15 psi. 

Interesting sidepoint, though somewhat relevant given your mention of "flow meetings": I'm currently working on a swimming pool company's web site, updating its content, look, and feel. While there are just a few more things you have to take into consideration when it comes to swimming pool and spa plumbing (sarc.), sizing pumps for them is somewhat similar to sizing pumps to PC cooling loops. 

Just scrubbed the following procedure the other day:


----------



## iamjanco

InfoSeeker said:


> I have an aquacomputer High Flow Sensor, and a Dwyer Rotameter in the loop and they agree on flow rate.


Right on the button :thumb:


----------



## sultanofswing

Been pretty well documented that the AQ High flow sensor that uses the spinning wheel is dead nuts accurate.


----------



## Soulpatch

InfoSeeker said:


> I have an aquacomputer High Flow Sensor, and a Dwyer Rotameter in the loop and they agree on flow rate.



Is there any particular reason you need the actual flow rate for such a small system? Do they make a pressure system as an alternative? i put in a sight-glass with a spinner, but considered that the loop was so small I really didn't need actual numbers for the flow. But instead focused on ensuring that the pump was driven off the temperature of the coolant instead. Odds are good my system is much smaller than yours is anyway, but was just curious what your thoughts were. Guess if really needed it would be easy enough to convert pump rpm into liters per minute given the specs of the pump. 



Anyway, here's a little St. Patrick's day... All I had for the green was a matrix screensaver lol


----------



## InfoSeeker

Soulpatch said:


> Is there any particular reason you need the actual flow rate for such a small system? Do they make a pressure system as an alternative? i put in a sight-glass with a spinner, but considered that the loop was so small I really didn't need actual numbers for the flow. But instead focused on ensuring that the pump was driven off the temperature of the coolant instead. Odds are good my system is much smaller than yours is anyway, but was just curious what your thoughts were. Guess if really needed it would be easy enough to convert pump rpm into liters per minute given the specs of the pump.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, here's a little St. Patrick's day... All I had for the green was a matrix screensaver lol



Correct. i do not see a strong reason for absolute accuracy... what I look for is change over time. My reason for the rotameter was strictly aesthetic.

Yes, aquacomputer does have a series of pressure sensors available.

I do not drive pump RPM according to coolant, or any temperature sensors. I set the pump to run at an RPM that provides maximum flow at an acceptable noise level. I DO control fan RPM according to the coolant/ambient delta, as that is what drops the coolant temperature. From what I understand flow rate, after a sufficient flow, does not really impact cooling the processor.


----------



## Soulpatch

InfoSeeker said:


> Correct. i do not see a strong reason for absolute accuracy... what I look for is change over time. My reason for the rotameter was strictly aesthetic.
> 
> Yes, aquacomputer does have a series of pressure sensors available.
> 
> I do not drive pump RPM according to coolant, or any temperature sensors. I set the pump to run at an RPM that provides maximum flow at an acceptable noise level. I DO control fan RPM according to the coolant/ambient delta, as that is what drops the coolant temperature. From what I understand flow rate, after a sufficient flow, does not really impact cooling the processor.



That's exactly true. The faster flow of coolant doesn't actually cool the processor any faster than an steady rate. Guess what I meant to say is that my pump is set for 2k rpm and the rad fans are controlled by the temp of the processor. But I have them set not to ramp up when the processor temp jumps. It's easy to get caught in that up/down on the fans. Mine reads the coolant temp and there's enough time delay set in that if the processor jumps and drops in the span of 10 seconds the fans stay steady. I tried it the other way and they seemed to be ramping up and down pretty severely and even with quality fans the sound became pretty annoying. Still learning some of the tech so it's good to pick people's brains to see if I'm on the same line of thought or not. Appreciate it.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Soulpatch said:


> That's exactly true. The faster flow of coolant doesn't actually cool the processor any faster than an steady rate. Guess what I meant to say is that my pump is set for 2k rpm and the rad fans are controlled by the temp of the processor. But I have them set not to ramp up when the processor temp jumps. It's easy to get caught in that up/down on the fans. Mine reads the coolant temp and there's enough time delay set in that if the processor jumps and drops in the span of 10 seconds the fans stay steady. I tried it the other way and they seemed to be ramping up and down pretty severely and even with quality fans the sound became pretty annoying. Still learning some of the tech so it's good to pick people's brains to see if I'm on the same line of thought or not. Appreciate it.


Not a bad idea. I had planned to set fans to speed up acronding to either GPU or CPU temp, but as you mentioned the CPU and GPU temp is farily irrelevant on water as the liquid temp is what is actually important (as long as flow isn't an issue). Given that my mobo is set up to read water temp and I have a sensor ready to mount I might just set up a fan curve dependent on watertemp instead.


----------



## Soulpatch

Rainmaker91 said:


> Not a bad idea. I had planned to set fans to speed up acronding to either GPU or CPU temp, but as you mentioned the CPU and GPU temp is farily irrelevant on water as the liquid temp is what is actually important (as long as flow isn't an issue). Given that my mobo is set up to read water temp and I have a sensor ready to mount I might just set up a fan curve dependent on watertemp instead.



That's absolutely correct. The temp of the gpu/cpu can jump up/down 10c just because of a spike in a program. So setting the fans to either processor can cause them to ramp up/down constantly. When in reality they should be set to the coolant temp. I have a probe in the system and that's what the fans are set by. They can ramp up if the processor STAYS at a high enough temperature, but that's only to stay ahead on the coolant temp. You know as well as I do that over time the coolant temp will creep upward if you are gaming, compiling code, etc. So having them set this way ensures that I can keep the coolant temp at roughly the same temperature all the time. As it stands even when gaming (division 2/AC Odyssey) my coolant temp rarely climbs past 40c and the processor (overclocked I9-9900K @ 5ghz) rarely reaches 60c. The longest point I was gaming once was 3 hours (time flies lol) and it never passed 60 because of the way everything is set. Also increased the VRM fan to a pwm 60mm and that temp rarely makes it past 40. So all in all the only way to keep the system any cooler would be to replace the three fans at the back of the case just to get more airflow across the board, or could add a reservoir. Increasing fluid would enable it to stay cooler longer. But none of that is really needed. Let me know how you end up setting yours up. I'd be curious to see what numbers you pull on it. I know mine will eventually spike when I buy a new video card (running a 1070), but waiting for the 3080's to hit the market. So until then it is what it is.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Soulpatch said:


> That's absolutely correct. The temp of the gpu/cpu can jump up/down 10c just because of a spike in a program. So setting the fans to either processor can cause them to ramp up/down constantly. When in reality they should be set to the coolant temp. I have a probe in the system and that's what the fans are set by. They can ramp up if the processor STAYS at a high enough temperature, but that's only to stay ahead on the coolant temp. You know as well as I do that over time the coolant temp will creep upward if you are gaming, compiling code, etc. So having them set this way ensures that I can keep the coolant temp at roughly the same temperature all the time. As it stands even when gaming (division 2/AC Odyssey) my coolant temp rarely climbs past 40c and the processor (overclocked I9-9900K @ 5ghz) rarely reaches 60c. The longest point I was gaming once was 3 hours (time flies lol) and it never passed 60 because of the way everything is set. Also increased the VRM fan to a pwm 60mm and that temp rarely makes it past 40. So all in all the only way to keep the system any cooler would be to replace the three fans at the back of the case just to get more airflow across the board, or could add a reservoir. Increasing fluid would enable it to stay cooler longer. But none of that is really needed. Let me know how you end up setting yours up. I'd be curious to see what numbers you pull on it. I know mine will eventually spike when I buy a new video card (running a 1070), but waiting for the 3080's to hit the market. So until then it is what it is.


Ill keep you posted though I'm guessing my coolant temps will be fairly low due to the absurd amount of radiator surface area and fans that will be in the build (2x 480mmx86mm radiators and 16 fans). I have been running with it on this setup before (just need an update in the looks department) and the CPU and GPU temps were fairly low at the time though I didn't have a temp probe installed so I couldn't tell you the coolant temp (GPU temp was in the 30s-50s if I remember correctly and the CPU in the 40s-50s, I could be remembering wrong though). As far as the sheer amount of coolant that will be in the loop... last time I had it up I used roughly 3-4 liters (about a US gallon) and I had a smaller reservoir then I do now, so I don't think that will be an issue.


----------



## Soulpatch

Rainmaker91 said:


> Ill keep you posted though I'm guessing my coolant temps will be fairly low due to the absurd amount of radiator surface area and fans that will be in the build (2x 480mmx86mm radiators and 16 fans). I have been running with it on this setup before (just need an update in the looks department) and the CPU and GPU temps were fairly low at the time though I didn't have a temp probe installed so I couldn't tell you the coolant temp (GPU temp was in the 30s-50s if I remember correctly and the CPU in the 40s-50s, I could be remembering wrong though). As far as the sheer amount of coolant that will be in the loop... last time I had it up I used roughly 3-4 liters (about a US gallon) and I had a smaller reservoir then I do now, so I don't think that will be an issue.



That's insane, ya your coolant/hardware temps will definitely be low. I'm running a pretty small loop as far as coolant goes, barely a liter and one 360 radiator. You are running quite literally almost triple my surface area on rads and far more coolant and some serious fans as well. Can see why you have it all setup the way you do. It's much more effecient and likely quieter sounding than it could be if you were have the fans ramping up/down with every spike from the cpu.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Soulpatch said:


> That's insane, ya your coolant/hardware temps will definitely be low. I'm running a pretty small loop as far as coolant goes, barely a liter and one 360 radiator. You are running quite literally almost triple my surface area on rads and far more coolant and some serious fans as well. Can see why you have it all setup the way you do. It's much more effecient and likely quieter sounding than it could be if you were have the fans ramping up/down with every spike from the cpu.


Last time I had it set up (it's currently all in pieces while I'm working on some casemods) I was using volt regulated fans. Problem is volt regualted fans usually don't go as far down as I want them to as far as RPM goes, and the Corsair ML120 fans do. Trouble is that they are PWM regulated and when I first have it hooked up to the motherboard I might as well have them ramp up based on temps. It's actually a lenghty story as to why I ended up with these two beat up old rads for my build rather than something far more sensible, but either way they perform really well even if they need a bit of a makeover (which they are getting quite soon actually).

As far as your setup goes... If a single 360mm radiator is meeting expectations then I see no reason why you need anything more, and your build looks awesome either way


----------



## LiquidHaus

Haven't been in here for a while.

Newest build for our HQ.

First dual 420mm PC-O11 XL, along with some overkill on top.


----------



## Hequaqua

I just got this done a few days ago....

Here's a sample:









There are some more pics in another thread where I posted:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/28379658-post20890.html


----------



## Rainmaker91

Hequaqua said:


> I just got this done a few days ago....
> 
> Here's a sample:
> 
> View attachment 334910
> 
> 
> There are some more pics in another thread where I posted:
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/28379658-post20890.html


Good to see someone who isn't afraid of using plain old soft tubing, I can't stand working with hardline and I'm not even finished with my build yet (I have done tons of trial bends though).

On a different note: I noticed you were able to use spoiler tags and add all the pictures inside that. How did you manage to do that without having to attach them to the end of the post? I have been racking my mind on how to properly use the forum mechanics ever since they changed them a few years back and I still haven't gotten any wiser.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice but from the other images link some don't look like soft tubing.


----------



## Hequaqua

Rainmaker91 said:


> Good to see someone who isn't afraid of using plain old soft tubing, I can't stand working with hardline and I'm not even finished with my build yet (I have done tons of trial bends though).
> 
> On a different note: I noticed you were able to use spoiler tags and add all the pictures inside that. How did you manage to do that without having to attach them to the end of the post? I have been racking my mind on how to properly use the forum mechanics ever since they changed them a few years back and I still haven't gotten any wiser.


I hit the paperclip...upload the pics. Then in the body of your post, click the paperclip again, and tell it to post them(it's easier to post them into all at once, then you can adjust your post to match the pics).

Thanks



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nice but from the other images link some don't look like soft tubing.


Yea, it's a mix of hard and soft.....I'm thinking of going to full soft...it's just so much easier to maintain. I don't have enough soft fittings....so it might be a bit. I did pick up a few and some Mayhem's soft UV white tubing. I thought about the ZMT from EK, but I'm not paying that kind of $$ for it. I can replace everything 3x a year for what 3m costs.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hequaqua said:


> I hit the paperclip...upload the pics. Then in the body of your post, click the paperclip again, and tell it to post them(it's easier to post them into all at once, then you can adjust your post to match the pics).
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, it's a mix of hard and soft.....I'm thinking of going to full soft...it's just so much easier to maintain. I don't have enough soft fittings....so it might be a bit. I did pick up a few and some Mayhem's soft UV white tubing. I thought about the ZMT from EK, but I'm not paying that kind of $$ for it. I can replace everything 3x a year for what 3m costs.


Hi,
Just missed a out of business sell yesterday or Monday can't remember but maybe they still have some fitting ?
https://sidewindercomputers.com/collections/cpu-coolers


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just missed a out of business sell yesterday or Monday can't remember but maybe they still have some fitting ?
> https://sidewindercomputers.com/collections/cpu-coolers


I've gotten most of the soft tubing/fittings from ModMyMods...those guy's are great. Normally ship same day. USPS Priority is the quickest and cheapest. They are in Rochester NY, so it's normally two business days to me(NC). I ordered this morning, already shipped. I'm in no hurry....but should get the order Fri/Sat.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hequaqua said:


> I've gotten most of the soft tubing/fittings from *ModMyMods*...those guy's are great. Normally ship same day. USPS Priority is the quickest and cheapest. They are in Rochester NY, so it's normally two business days to me(NC). I ordered this morning, already shipped. I'm in no hurry....but should get the order Fri/Sat.


Hi,
Boom yeah I go there too once in a while got a bunch of fittings and mayhems clear soft tubing from them 
I was lurking on a test bench as well just haven't jumped on it yet 420mm rad version


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Boom yeah I go there too once in a while got a bunch of fittings and mayhems clear soft tubing from them
> I was lurking on a test bench as well just haven't jumped on it yet 420mm rad version


I used to game with a clan, the owner of which, had a plexi bench, brand new, still in the box. I asked him several times what he wanted for it...but never got a answer. IIRC, I found it on Amazon, wanted to say it was selling for like 100.00+. 

Thinking on that....maybe I'll give him a shout out if I can find him and ask again....lmao

EDIT: I think it was this one.... https://www.amazon.com/MYOPENPC-Transparent-Acrylic-Stackable-Capability/dp/B004TZAU1Q


----------



## sdmf74

Hey does anybody have any experience with the new EK VARDAR X3M 120ER FANS?
I'm desperate for quick info about em, I'm ready to replace my 8 NB Eloop fans like today & these will look great in my build but specs arent even listed on ekwb.com although I saw someone posted the specs in a comment somewhere & if they were correct they dont seem to perform as well as the older Vardar fans (which I've never used either).

As far as aesthetics go it's difficult to understand why EK doesnt offer the bumpers in black or white


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I have several ek fans only half work the other half have minds of their own 
Go Bequiet silent wings high rpm if you want 2k rpm fans that are quiet.


----------



## Gilles3000

Hequaqua said:


> I used to game with a clan, the owner of which, had a plexi bench, brand new, still in the box. I asked him several times what he wanted for it...but never got a answer. IIRC, I found it on Amazon, wanted to say it was selling for like 100.00+.
> 
> Thinking on that....maybe I'll give him a shout out if I can find him and ask again....lmao
> 
> EDIT: I think it was this one.... https://www.amazon.com/MYOPENPC-Transparent-Acrylic-Stackable-Capability/dp/B004TZAU1Q


You can get those plexi benches dirt cheap from china. Just search for test bench(or something similar) on aliexpress(or other) and a bunch of results should pop up for $20-50.


----------



## Rainmaker91

sdmf74 said:


> Hey does anybody have any experience with the new EK VARDAR X3M 120ER FANS?
> I'm desperate for quick info about em, I'm ready to replace my 8 NB Eloop fans like today & these will look great in my build but specs arent even listed on ekwb.com although I saw someone posted the specs in a comment somewhere & if they were correct they dont seem to perform as well as the older Vardar fans (which I've never used either).
> 
> As far as aesthetics go it's difficult to understand why EK doesnt offer the bumpers in black or white


No experience with EK fans in general, mostly because they seem to perform decent but can be a bit on the noisy side. I can however atest to Corsair ML120 fans, they are terrific and going from Eloops to ML120s gave me wider PWM range as well as both better performance and equal or lower noise. Corsair uses their own weird RGB setup though, so you would have to deal with that. There isn't really much to choose from if you specifically are looking for clear fans with RGB, mostly the Vardar fans and the ML fans are the best choices.

However if you are looking more at black fans and are more interested in the rubber mounts on the sides then I doubt you can get much better than the Noctua Chromax line. As for just plain old good performing fans... I seriously strugle to find fans that have quiter operation than Be-Quiet's offerings, though in general they perform slightly worse than some competitors (Roughly at Eloop level, though none of the drawbacks that Eloop comes with).


----------



## Mxj1

Working on mine has been a slow process, but getting closer.

I need to swap out a few fittings, and I'm changing the flow meter to a different variety.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nicely put together cool optimus block too :thumb:


----------



## Rainmaker91

Mxj1 said:


> Working on mine has been a slow process, but getting closer.
> 
> I need to swap out a few fittings, and I'm changing the flow meter to a different variety.


I love how those Be quiet cases work, they give you a ton of room (though it's easy to fill up with WC stuff) and the flexibility is superb.

I haven't touched my 801 for many months... Everything is finished I jsut haven't gotten around to finishing up the cooling for the GPU (I need to solder together a VRM block and cut some extruded Alu for the vRAM).

Seeing your superb work kind of makes me want to finish it up soon though, I just love building in that thing.

A quick pic of mine, not as refined as yours though:


----------



## Avacado

Mxj1 said:


> Working on mine has been a slow process, but getting closer.
> 
> I need to swap out a few fittings, and I'm changing the flow meter to a different variety.


Looks great, i'm waiting on my Boxfish/D5 200 to arrive to start my build as well. How do you like it? I think mine is probably lost somewhere in China with no accurate delivery, might have to cop an EK res/pump instead.


----------



## Mxj1

Avacado said:


> Looks great, i'm waiting on my Boxfish/D5 200 to arrive to start my build as well. How do you like it? I think mine is probably lost somewhere in China with no accurate delivery, might have to cop an EK res/pump instead.


I like mine. It's unique and not just another tube resevoir.

I spent some time with a quality plastic polish to really make mine as transparent as possible. I think that this step is missing after production. there's very little done out of the box. I also added a second led strip to mine so it can get really bright when lit up. I've also added a 10k temperature sensor (also barrow) to provide input to the motherboard for tailoring my fan curve based off of water temp. 

I got mine from Formulamod, and I've spent quite a bit of money with them. I've still got an order in transit too, and its at about four weeks from date of order currently. My last few orders arrived within a week of being placed.


----------



## sdmf74

Rainmaker91 said:


> sdmf74 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey does anybody have any experience with the new EK VARDAR X3M 120ER FANS?
> I'm desperate for quick info about em, I'm ready to replace my 8 NB Eloop fans like today & these will look great in my build but specs arent even listed on ekwb.com although I saw someone posted the specs in a comment somewhere & if they were correct they dont seem to perform as well as the older Vardar fans (which I've never used either).
> 
> As far as aesthetics go it's difficult to understand why EK doesnt offer the bumpers in black or white
> 
> 
> 
> No experience with EK fans in general, mostly because they seem to perform decent but can be a bit on the noisy side. I can however atest to Corsair ML120 fans, they are terrific and going from Eloops to ML120s gave me wider PWM range as well as both better performance and equal or lower noise. Corsair uses their own weird RGB setup though, so you would have to deal with that. There isn't really much to choose from if you specifically are looking for clear fans with RGB, mostly the Vardar fans and the ML fans are the best choices.
> 
> However if you are looking more at black fans and are more interested in the rubber mounts on the sides then I doubt you can get much better than the Noctua Chromax line. As for just plain old good performing fans... I seriously strugle to find fans that have quiter operation than Be-Quiet's offerings, though in general they perform slightly worse than some competitors (Roughly at Eloop level, though none of the drawbacks that Eloop comes with).
Click to expand...

 @ThrashZone dont say that I just forked over $220+ on EK fans lol, I hear ya though that is why I was a little afraid to pull the trigger hearing about EK fan defects.

I wanted fans with a little white in them to make my build pop a little but I thought the black bladed x3m 120er's looked much better so I chose to not get the RGB ones.

I dont think noise is gonna be an issue with these new fans since I'm using 4 high speed pwm GT's on my front HL radiator 🙂.
It's funny you mentioned Corsair ML's & the chromax fans cause they were my first options problem is the corsair fans would have cost a fortune for 8 of em and the new Noctua Black AF's haven't been released yet or I probably would have chose them. I hope I dont have any issues but I will report back on the new EK's soon.

I have a question though for you guys as I just finished some other upgrades & getting ready to fill her up. I replaced my BP pump, reservoir, mounts etc with Singularity Computers & added a 1tb 970 evo plus for games in my 2nd M.2 slot & replaced my garbage monsoon fittings with bp & ek & a couple other minor changes So have a look & tell me what you guys think? (Sorry for the glare from phone pics).

Question: I'm getting ready to use distilled instead of EK evo clear this time and I'm using the Mayhems biocide+ & inhibitor+ that comes in the little 15ml bottles, so what's a good mix?
How much of the Mayhems do I use?

I also considered adding a little propylene glycol (10-15%) too since I use it to make my ejuice & have it on hand.


----------



## Moose-Tech

When mixing Distilled water with Mayhems biocide+ & inhibitor+ about 3 drops per 1000ml should be sufficient.


----------



## Rainmaker91

sdmf74 said:


> @ThrashZone dont say that I just forked over $220+ on EK fans lol, I hear ya though that is why I was a little afraid to pull the trigger hearing about EK fan defects.
> 
> I wanted fans with a little white in them to make my build pop a little but I thought the black bladed x3m 120er's looked much better so I chose to not get the RGB ones.
> 
> I dont think noise is gonna be an issue with these new fans since I'm using 4 high speed pwm GT's on my front HL radiator 🙂.
> It's funny you mentioned Corsair ML's & the chromax fans cause they were my first options problem is the corsair fans would have cost a fortune for 8 of em and the new Noctua Black AF's haven't been released yet or I probably would have chose them. I hope I dont have any issues but I will report back on the new EK's soon.
> 
> I have a question though for you guys as I just finished some other upgrades & getting ready to fill her up. I replaced my BP pump, reservoir, mounts etc with Singularity Computers & added a 1tb 970 evo plus for games in my 2nd M.2 slot & replaced my garbage monsoon fittings with bp & ek & a couple other minor changes So have a look & tell me what you guys think? (Sorry for the glare from phone pics).
> 
> Question: I'm getting ready to use distilled instead of EK evo clear this time and I'm using the Mayhems biocide+ & inhibitor+ that comes in the little 15ml bottles, so what's a good mix?
> How much of the Mayhems do I use?
> 
> I also considered adding a little propylene glycol (10-15%) too since I use it to make my ejuice & have it on hand.


The fans are probably fine, I just remember them being slightly worse than some of the alternatives when it coems to the sound they produce. Since you already have them, just power them on and listen to the noise. If you like the way they sound then they are perfectly fine for your build. As far as Noctua goes... The NF-A12 is better, but the NF-F12 is still a really good fan and do slightly outperform the Vardar fans. Which is why I recommended them, they are however not at all cheap. As for the ML fans, if you are fine with their more basic grey bladed option then you can get them in packs of two for under 30$. They don't have any of the rubber mounts or lights though, so I guess you are back at start if you really want that.

Now on to the water/biocide mix... They usually say how much is needed on the bottle, if not then just do what @Moose-Tech said.
As far as the propylene glycol goes, don't add that to the loop. From what I see your reservoir is made of acrylic, which really REALLY don't mix well with alcohol (propylene glycol does contain alcohol groups, though I have no idea how it would behave compared to for example Ethanol or Isopropyl alcohol). I can show you pictures of my own mistakes mixing acrylic with ethanol if you are skeptical about the results (I had a brainfart and nearly completely ruined a part for my build just a couple of days ago).


----------



## Mxj1

sdmf74 said:


> @ThrashZone
> Question: I'm getting ready to use distilled instead of EK evo clear this time and I'm using the Mayhems biocide+ & inhibitor+ that comes in the little 15ml bottles, so what's a good mix?
> How much of the Mayhems do I use?


I've been using this combination for a month or so and I'm happy with it. 

The instructions for ratio can be found on the respective product pages. My order came with a syringe to accurately measure.

Biocide+

Inhibitor+


----------



## ThrashZone

Moose-Tech said:


> When mixing Distilled water with Mayhems biocide+ & inhibitor+ about 3 drops per 1000ml should be sufficient.


Hi,
Boom :thumb:


----------



## sdmf74

I kind of took this question over to another thread as some of you prolly noticed, only cause after posting the question I noticed that others had mentioned using the mayhems biocide & inhibitor+. Still great responses in both threads nonetheless.

@Rainmaker91 That is something that I hadn't considered with the possibility of PG damaging the reservoir. That would be unfortunate but I'm slightly skeptical considering most premix coolants on the market use a mixture of 6%-40%+ of propylene glycol or ethylene glycol in their coolants.
Thoughts?

EDIT: Unicornhunter states in a thread I found from 2013 that Ethylene Glycol does in fact damage acrylic reservoirs despite what many acrylic manufacturers claim but so far Ive found no mention anywhere of Propylene Glycol causing damage to acrylic.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...olants-acrylics-3.html#/topics/1439804?page=4


----------



## Rainmaker91

sdmf74 said:


> I kind of took this question over to another thread as some of you prolly noticed, only cause after posting the question I noticed that others had mentioned using the mayhems biocide & inhibitor+. Still great responses in both threads nonetheless.
> 
> @Rainmaker91 That is something that I hadn't considered with the possibility of PG damaging the reservoir. That would be unfortunate but I'm slightly skeptical considering most premix coolants on the market use a mixture of 6%-40%+ of propylene glycol or ethylene glycol in their coolants.
> Thoughts?
> 
> EDIT: Unicornhunter states in a thread I found from 2013 that Ethylene Glycol does in fact damage acrylic reservoirs despite what many acrylic manufacturers claim but so far Ive found no mention anywhere of Propylene Glycol causing damage to acrylic.
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...olants-acrylics-3.html#/topics/1439804?page=4


Like I said, I haven't actually tested propylene glycol on acrylic. I do however sadly have some experience on using a mix of Ethanol and Isopropyl alcohol to clean acrylic panels (ratio is unknown, but the total alcohol content is 95%). Now propylene glycol isn't the same stuff, but it does contain alcohol groups which essentially means it is indeed harmful for Acrylic. Also, while car coolants and some water cooling coolants contain alcohol I would not say that it is common. Usually they use other chemicals to achieve similar results, both Benzalkonium chloride and copper sulphate are common ingredients for coolant.

Now on to how acrylic actually reacts to alcohol... I can't give you an explanation of the chemical reaction itself as that is way outside of my area of expertise, however it usually manifests as a "frosted" surface or in my case cracks in the acrylic. I'll add a quick picture of one of the panels for my build where you can see the effects of just wiping it with a ethanol/Isopropyl mix, keep in mind this is just quick wiping the surface to get rit of fingerprints and dust.








The cracks should be fairly visible at the "arrow" at the top there as well as the tiny cracks along the edge of the piece itself. If it's not visible enough on this pick I can dig out my DSLR and get a clearer picture for you, but this is in essence what alcohol does to acrylics.

At the end of the day it all boils down to one simple thing: Make sure you know what you put in your loop and how it will react with the components, classic examples are to not mix silver and nickel and then there is the alcohol and acrylic issue. There is also another issue with adding copper sulphate to the loop, and a heap of other chemicals that don't react well to each other. So just make sure you know before you accidentally break stuff.


----------



## sdmf74

Oh yeah I can see that man that's a shame.

I dont think I agree with the following statement.
"It does contain alcohol groups which essentially means it is indeed harmful for Acrylic."

I'm not a chemist but just because PG contains alcohol groups doesnt mean it has to be harmful to acrylic, as you know Isopropyl Alcohol is completely different & indeed very harmful.

I think ethylene glycol can harm reservoirs but I'm doubtful about PG especially if mixed low.


----------



## Mooncheese

First hard tube loop complete!

I just spent the past 24 hours putting the hard tubing loop together (off and on, maybe 10 hours total in actuality): 




Addendum video uploading now, the DRGB at night looks out of this world *uploaded: 




I went with 14/10 Acrylic, tubing and fittings from Bykski, Distro plate by Barrow, pre-existing EK monoblock and rads, Phanteks Glacier on the 2080 Ti.

Thermaltake View 71

i7 8700k, 5.0 GHz, 0 AVX, Delid, @ 1.342v Dynamic Offset

EVGA 2080 Ti XC2 Ultra @ 2070 MHz core, 8100 MHz memory with an undervolt (1.013v), 90% Confidence Rating in OC Scanner.

2x16 G.Skill Trident Z Royal 3600 MHz 17 20 20 38 @ 1.4v

Oh and the benches, of particular note, Port Royal really responded to the memory overclock, we're talking about a 10% performance gain going from +500 Mhz to +1200 Mhz on the memory.

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/pr/237543/pr/235141

Timespy: (from left to right, +1200 MHz memory, +600 MHz memory, 1080 Ti):https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/1...15/spy/2949106

Nearly 60% gain in Timespy vs 1080 Ti!

Firestrike (from left to right, +1200 MHz memory, +600 Mhz memory, +0 Mhz memory):https://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/22...3/fs/21849140#

Some F1 2019 gameplay and Metro Exodus benchmark, more to come: 

Metro Exodus: 




F1 2019 @ Australia practice:


----------



## Rainmaker91

sdmf74 said:


> Oh yeah I can see that man that's a shame.
> 
> I dont think I agree with the following statement.
> "It does contain alcohol groups which essentially means it is indeed harmful for Acrylic."
> 
> I'm not a chemist but just because PG contains alcohol groups doesnt mean it has to be harmful to acrylic, as you know Isopropyl Alcohol is completely different & indeed very harmful.
> 
> I think ethylene glycol can harm reservoirs but I'm doubtful about PG especially if mixed low.


It could be that the chemical structure hinders it from being an issue, but the acrylic itself reacts to the the specific structure of alcohol. So like I metnioned previously, I just don't know. I wouldn't risk it though, which was more what I meant to say (sometimes things are lost in transaltion).


----------



## skupples

https://www.instructables.com/id/Why-You-Dont-Clean-Acrylic-With-Alcohol-Methyl-Eth/

every time I read up, it basically reads like the industry warns against using alcohol based stuff with thermoplastics as a whole, even though some don't have issues. can't have cheap secret sauce failing before warranty periods. 

mooncheese - do you have a flow meter?


----------



## Mooncheese

skupples said:


> https://www.instructables.com/id/Why-You-Dont-Clean-Acrylic-With-Alcohol-Methyl-Eth/
> 
> every time I read up, it basically reads like the industry warns against using alcohol based stuff with thermoplastics as a whole, even though some don't have issues. can't have cheap secret sauce failing before warranty periods.
> 
> mooncheese - do you have a flow meter?


No, why?


----------



## skupples

i'm curious to compare the differences of flow between tubes & plates. More specifically though, I'm curious if/when they start vortexing/gulping air.


----------



## Mooncheese

skupples said:


> i'm curious to compare the differences of flow between tubes & plates. More specifically though, I'm curious if/when they start vortexing/gulping air.


The aeration / air bubble issue is gone, if that's what youre talking about. At the end of Hard Tube Update and Addendum there is no aeration problem and the temps are good (55C CPU, 41-43C GPU under load). 

I posted this to r/watercooling and just got an anonymous downvote. I ******* hate reddit. Maybe my post came off as boasting, don't know but my build got a downvote there: 

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/fuop0e/first_hard_tube_loop_complete_1410_acrylic/

Meanwhile this gets 59 upvotes within the same time period: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli..._built_this_for_a_friend_liquid_devil_5700xt/


----------



## Mooncheese

Full gallery: https://imgur.com/a/i7zCusE


----------



## Gilles3000

Mooncheese said:


> I posted this to r/watercooling and just got an anonymous downvote. I ******* hate reddit. Maybe my post came off as boasting, don't know but my build got a downvote there:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/fuop0e/first_hard_tube_loop_complete_1410_acrylic/
> 
> Meanwhile this gets 59 upvotes within the same time period: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli..._built_this_for_a_friend_liquid_devil_5700xt/


Reddit is a fickle beast, you can be as strategic about upload times, titles, etc. as you want, sometimes your post gets buried and that's the end of it. Also, getting salty doesn't help one bit.

I'll give you some constructive criticism if you want. Work on your photography, I don't think your picture does your loop the justice it deserves.

Maybe try putting some more effort into your PCI power cables, they still look really messy despite using 3 combs. look into cable training if they're really stubborn.

(I also hate that ram kit with a passion, but that's just personal preference  )


----------



## Mooncheese

Gilles3000 said:


> Reddit is a fickle beast, you can be as strategic about upload times, titles, etc. as you want, sometimes your post gets buried and that's the end of it. Also, getting salty doesn't help one bit.
> 
> I'll give you some constructive criticism if you want. Work on your photography, I don't think your picture does your loop the justice it deserves.
> 
> Maybe try putting some more effort into your PCI power cables, they still look really messy despite using 3 combs. look into cable training if they're really stubborn.
> 
> (I also hate that ram kit with a passion, but that's just personal preference  )


Thanks for the feedback! I need new combs actually, originally the 8+8 pin power cables were going to 1080 Ti and I cut the ends off the 8+8 pin power combs that came from CableMod (there were no 6 pin combs for whatever reason) so that's why it doesn't look as clean as it should. Great feedback in regards to the photography skills. I have some new pics with the RGB off where I focused a little more on proper angle, focus etc but yeah, not a professional photographer and using a phone as camera (Samsung Galaxy S7).

Why do you hate this ram in particular? 

Here's a quick vid I took this morning showing how beautiful this system is with the RGB off: 




And some pics!

(Uploading images here is an absolute nightmare, extremely slow, you have to do them one by one and they take forever and we are talking about 3 MB in size)


----------



## J7SC

...after getting some essential shopping done, back to covid 'house arrest' (so to speak). With all that time on my hands, I took the glass cover off the Core P5 build and started cleaning all the nooks and crannies - even if it wasn't really dusty. Also going back and forth between 32GB and 64GB, coz - plenty of time at home :blinksmil


----------



## iamjanco

^ ja, sir -- pwetty :thumb:


----------



## J7SC

iamjanco said:


> ^ ja, sir -- pwetty :thumb:


 
Tx ...Q-tip cleansed, by Chairman of the Bored


----------



## Mooncheese

J7SC said:


> Tx ...Q-tip cleansed, by Chairman of the Bored


Nice build, how fast is a single GB WF Xtreme by itself / what freq does it run at with how much voltage and does it have Samsung B-Die? I passed one of these up on ebay because I was nearly certain all of them are refurbished units with no warranty (same seller, presumably Gigabyte or someone Gigabyte sells the fixed RMA units to that probably came in for Micron memory failure late 2018 early 2019) but they were going for like $1100+ used. A few auctions ended around $950, but factor in tax and youre still looking at like $1100 with no warranty.


----------



## sdmf74

Mooncheese said:


> Full gallery: https://imgur.com/a/i7zCusE


Nice job! That's why use ZMT tubing but if I ever wanted to go clear I might tackle hard tubing but not necessary with this build.

Why the different fans? I just replaced all my NB eloops with the new EK fans if your interested in making all your fans match, unless of course you are not wanting to use the eloops for your pull fans for obvious reasons.

Just finished revamping my build too here's a couple updated pics, I had it on the work bench without monitor, keyboard etc So no RGB adjustment for pics. Please excuse the rainbow leds on the ram, I wish g skill wouldnt have chose rainbow mode as default.

@Rainmaker91 not too drag out the discussion about EG & PG in coolants but almost all companies that make coolants use a percentage of one or the other up to around 30-35%.
-XSPC ECX contains 50-80% PG in their premix
-MAYHEMS XT1 contains up to 90% EG. 
(although I assume they are referring to the concentrate).

I just made my first batch of DIY coolant and used only 5% propylene Glycol. I will report back if any issues, it is a brand new reservoir so should be easy to tell.
Seems to be within 1 degree of the previous EK coolant I was using.

IM DONE spending $44 on 2 liters of coolant when I can make 30 liters for about $27!
No wonder why EK pushes their coolant so hard


----------



## J7SC

Mooncheese said:


> Nice build, how fast is a single GB WF Xtreme by itself / what freq does it run at with how much voltage and does it have Samsung B-Die? I passed one of these up on ebay because I was nearly certain all of them are refurbished units with no warranty (same seller, presumably Gigabyte or someone Gigabyte sells the fixed RMA units to that probably came in for Micron memory failure late 2018 early 2019) but they were going for like $1100+ used. A few auctions ended around $950, but factor in tax and youre still looking at like $1100 with no warranty.


 
Tx - I like yours above, too  
Per attachment, the fastest I can get a single card to with GPUz 'render' (< fairly light load) is 2235 MHz @ 1.06x-1.07x (GPUz vs MSI AB). Both GB Aorus WB Xtreme were new (Dec '18 build), and both have unique custom PCBs, and both have Micron VRAM. Samsung would have been preferable, but Micron runs slightly tighter timings, though apparently a bit hotter. 'Typical' GPU game clocks are 2190 to 2205 for a single card, with VRAM around 2061 - 2075 max before FPS drop, though no artifacts 

As to 'Micron memory failure', I think we already had that discussion...2080 (non-Ti) with the same VRAM and controller were not affected, and since most, though not all, early 2080 Ti used Micron and OEM style PCBs (some of which had a manufacturing and testing problem NVidia finally confirmed), Micron was fingered, never mind that there were also a few Samsung-equipped 2080 Ti cards that failed...not looking for yet another discussion on this, but here's a decent write-up which came out after initial 'specialist' writers and YouTubers had their say https://www.techspot.com/news/77445-nvidia-addresses-failing-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-cards.html

Going back to the thread-theme of* water-cooling*, 2nd attachment below shows GPU MHz - temp relationship for 2080 Ti (from THW). Cooling these cards as much is possible is important and rewarding performance wise. On my build, I use separate CPU and GPU loops...the GPU loop on its own has 2x D5 pumps and 3x RX360 (360/55) rads. Even with Unigine Superposition 8K run for BOTH cards per NVLink (long and stressful bench), temps went from 23 C ambient to no higher than 36 C. So no matter what the card model, VRAM or silicone lottery draw, water-cooling makes a lot of sense with these (unless one has a sibling who knows how to poor LN2 while one games for hours  )


----------



## Rainmaker91

sdmf74 said:


> @Rainmaker91 not too drag out the discussion about EG & PG in coolants but almost all companies that make coolants use a percentage of one or the other up to around 30-35%.
> -XSPC ECX contains 50-80% PG in their premix
> -MAYHEMS XT1 contains up to 90% EG.
> (although I assume they are referring to the concentrate).
> 
> I just made my first batch of DIY coolant and used only 5% propylene Glycol. I will report back if any issues, it is a brand new reservoir so should be easy to tell.
> Seems to be within 1 degree of the previous EK coolant I was using.
> 
> IM DONE spending $44 on 2 liters of coolant when I can make 30 liters for about $27!
> No wonder why EK pushes their coolant so hard


I will concede that I am no chemist, I am simply trying to warn you of the possibility of something like EG and PG reacting with acrylics. I'm not saying it will, nor do I claim to know better than the companies that make them. Now something to keep in mind is that XT-1 Nuke is a fairly harsh coolant and has its downsides, it even says so specifically on their site that most EG will crack PETG (no idea how that means it will react with acrylics though) and I have no idea what kind of secret sauce Mayhems uses to stop it from doing so.

At the end of the day I am simply advocating caution, and quite honestly that is always a good thing to do when we are talking about fairly expensive parts (block tops, reservoir and whatever else might be acrylic quickly adds up to a fair lump of cash).

Now as to finding a cheaper way of making coolant... I never said you had to pay tons of money to get something good, I am in fact an avid advocate of doing things on a budget where possible. Just make sure that it works well and that the components in the loop can handle it, because it won't do you any good if saving a few bucks on coolant will mean having to replace everything in a short while (not saying you will, just making a point).

I would really like to see someone explain why PG and EG does not react to acrylics while other alcohols do, mostly beacuse I like having clear answers to things.


----------



## ishay

4 years old build and still going strong


----------



## skupples

hollowed 900D? I like it.


----------



## ishay

skupples said:


> hollowed 900D? I like it.


Yup, did a lot of cutting to the poor thing 
Thanks!


----------



## J7SC

ishay said:


> Yup, did a lot of cutting to the poor thing
> Thanks!


 
Yeah, looks nice even with a few years on, Also, cutting gets easier the more Dremel wheels you go through


----------



## ishay

J7SC said:


> Yeah, looks nice even with a few years on, Also, cutting gets easier the more Dremel wheels you go through


Thanks! 
haha it really gets easier the more you practice it.


----------



## Gilles3000

I thought the Corsair Hydro X Series XR5 were Basically rebranded HWL Nemesis LS series radiators, but I'm noticing some discrepancies in the dimensions. 


Spoiler



The HWL LS280 is listed as: 312mm x 153mm x 29.6mm
The corsair XR5 280mm as: 312mm x 140mm x 30mm

If anyone that has either or both(or just knows the details) could shine some light on this, that would be great.

Edit: Just checked the dimensions of the Bitspower Leviathan Slim, which is also supposedly the same rad, and its listed as 312mm x 140mm x 29.6mm I assume these are correct and the retailers just listed the HWL LS280 incorrectly? (And the XR5's thickness dimension is rounded up?)


Please disregard, european retailers just have it listed incorrectly. 
312mm x 140mm x 29.6mm are the correct and official dimensions for the LS280 and all rebrands.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Gilles3000 said:


> I thought the Corsair Hydro X Series XR5 were Basically rebranded HWL Nemesis LS series radiators, but I'm noticing some discrepancies in the dimensions.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> The HWL LS280 is listed as: 312mm x 153mm x 29.6mm
> The corsair XR5 280mm as: 312mm x 140mm x 30mm
> 
> If anyone that has either or both(or just knows the details) could shine some light on this, that would be great.
> 
> Edit: Just checked the dimensions of the Bitspower Leviathan Slim, which is also supposedly the same rad, and its listed as 312mm x 140mm x 29.6mm I assume these are correct and the retailers just listed the HWL LS280 incorrectly? (And the XR5's thickness dimension is rounded up?)
> 
> 
> Please disregard, european retailers just have it listed incorrectly.
> 312mm x 140mm x 29.6mm are the correct and official dimensions for the LS280 and all rebrands.


As far as I know HW labs has 2 series of rads as far as dimentions go, the Nemesis and SR2 all have extra wide cores and 140mm rads measure 153mm wide. Then there is the narrower L series wihich roughly measures 140mm wide for 140mm fans. The Corsair measurements are very likely not 100% as they seem to just round the numbers, however the HWLabs measurements that you list is for their wider radiators and not the L series.

Edit: I noticed just now that you had the answers :doh: Oh, well I still can't figure out why HWLabs don't list their L series rads on their webpage though, seems somewhat counterproductive.


----------



## J7SC

ishay said:


> Thanks!
> haha it really gets easier the more you practice it.


 
...I started sheepishly with cutting square openings into two older Antec 300 side-covers for wire mesh windows (wasn't that 'pretty')...graduated to on older NZXT Phantom re. some of its innards for extra rad space. Then last year, the new TT Core P5 build needed some extra cutting to enlarge mobo pass-throughs (for E-ATX), and additional cutting for copper piping and tubing.* Ezee pezee

LONG LIVE DREMEL*


----------



## Rainmaker91

J7SC said:


> ...I started sheepishly with cutting square openings into two older Antec 300 side-covers for wire mesh windows (wasn't that 'pretty')...graduated to on older NZXT Phantom re. some of its innards for extra rad space. Then last year, the new TT Core P5 build needed some extra cutting to enlarge mobo pass-throughs (for E-ATX), and additional cutting for copper piping and tubing.* Ezee pezee
> 
> LONG LIVE DREMEL*


If you don't mind me asking, what are your preferred cutting plates? I have tried a lot of different ones for both metal and plastic cutting, and I always end up on the fibreglass disks for all cutting purposes. The ones with a diamond coated edge do last longer when cutting steel, but they take forever to actually cut through anything. The cheap fibre disks that come with any dremmel kit (the red/brown ones) are decent for cutting plastics, but break way to quickly to be worth it on longer tasks.

So I'm curious what you prefer using.


----------



## J7SC

Rainmaker91 said:


> If you don't mind me asking, what are your preferred cutting plates? I have tried a lot of different ones for both metal and plastic cutting, and I always end up on the fibreglass disks for all cutting purposes. The ones with a diamond coated edge do last longer when cutting steel, but they take forever to actually cut through anything. The cheap fibre disks that come with any dremmel kit (the red/brown ones) are decent for cutting plastics, but break way to quickly to be worth it on longer tasks.
> 
> So I'm curious what you prefer using.


 
...I use the metal ones to cut the initial groove along the pre-taped and scribed lines, then switch to the fiberglass ones. The 'assorted' kit below (HomeDepot) is great and don't cost much (btw, the NZXT Phantom mod is just a bit visible in the background).


----------



## Hequaqua

Well....after seeing some of these beautiful rigs....I'll post my rework....

I decided to go from hardline back to soft tubing. It's just so much easier to work with, and maintain in my opinion. 

I am replacing the "blue" 3-way splitter with a black one, and the valve with a white one. I also decided to cut in a filter(just to be on the safe side and keep everything nice and clean). Those parts are on their way. Who knows on shipping though. 

I like it...I guess that's all that counts.

Enjoy!

A little video I shot the other day..........






Pics:



Spoiler


----------



## ishay

J7SC said:


> ...I started sheepishly with cutting square openings into two older Antec 300 side-covers for wire mesh windows (wasn't that 'pretty')...graduated to on older NZXT Phantom re. some of its innards for extra rad space. Then last year, the new TT Core P5 build needed some extra cutting to enlarge mobo pass-throughs (for E-ATX), and additional cutting for copper piping and tubing.* Ezee pezee
> 
> LONG LIVE DREMEL*


Well my first time using the dremel was actually for DIY electric skateboard project I built.
Cutting the 900D was one of my first as well, luckily it turned out OK


----------



## Gilles3000

Rainmaker91 said:


> So I'm curious what you prefer using.


For some plastics, especially ones that melt quickly, the small saw blades can work better than the grindling disks.

So it you're having trouble with the conventional disks, they're worth the try.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Gilles3000 said:


> For some plastics, especially ones that melt quickly, the small saw blades can work better than the grindling disks.
> 
> So it you're having trouble with the conventional disks, they're worth the try.


I hadn't considered the saw blade ones. I have indeed had some issues with melting plastics, especially when cutting acrylics. I'll make a note to get some of those blades.


----------



## J7SC

When I first started the latest build project (sig link) and decided on some copper piping and such, I had a few serious shopping trips to HomeDepot...per attachment, I picked up that table saw, Carson hole saw and various other 'HD' related tools. The table saw blade (metal spec, incl. copper) made a huge racket (> 110 + db ?), apart from heating things up a lot. The Carson hole saws were also far less useful than anticipated. 

The Dremel tool saved the day though - including being much better (and quicker) at cutting copper piping with the Dremel metal cutting wheels :headscrat . The same holds for cutting through layers of the modular TT Core P5 metal to allow for custom connections between the 'front' panel (which houses mobo, dual GPUs, CPU, 2x 360/55 rads) and the back which houses a further 3x 360/55 rads, as well as 4x pumps, 2x reservoirs etc. And as others mentioned, for related plastic and acrylic cutting a small saw blade on a variable-speed drill did the trick.

The circular table saw and other equipment will still come in handy for other 'home improvement' projects, but for PC modding, Dremel and select small saw blades ( @ Gilles3000 ) are king, IMO :2cents:


----------



## jura11

Rainmaker91 said:


> As far as I know HW labs has 2 series of rads as far as dimentions go, the Nemesis and SR2 all have extra wide cores and 140mm rads measure 153mm wide. Then there is the narrower L series wihich roughly measures 140mm wide for 140mm fans. The Corsair measurements are very likely not 100% as they seem to just round the numbers, however the HWLabs measurements that you list is for their wider radiators and not the L series.
> 
> Edit: I noticed just now that you had the answers :doh: Oh, well I still can't figure out why HWLabs don't list their L series rads on their webpage though, seems somewhat counterproductive.


Hi there 

L-series or LS/LX series are their OEM radiators or radiators supplied to OEM or any brand manufacturer like is Corsair, Bitspower and system builders and due this probably you will not find these radiators on their(HWLabs) website 

I have run 4 of these radiators on my loop and performance is not bad although still I would recommend get GTS rather than these ones, L series are restrictive radiators as first, swapped them for HWLabs SR-2 360mm 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Mooncheese

sdmf74 said:


> Nice job! That's why use ZMT tubing but if I ever wanted to go clear I might tackle hard tubing but not necessary with this build.
> 
> Why the different fans? I just replaced all my NB eloops with the new EK fans if your interested in making all your fans match, unless of course you are not wanting to use the eloops for your pull fans for obvious reasons.
> 
> Just finished revamping my build too here's a couple updated pics, I had it on the work bench without monitor, keyboard etc So no RGB adjustment for pics. Please excuse the rainbow leds on the ram, I wish g skill wouldnt have chose rainbow mode as default.
> 
> @Rainmaker91 not too drag out the discussion about EG & PG in coolants but almost all companies that make coolants use a percentage of one or the other up to around 30-35%.
> -XSPC ECX contains 50-80% PG in their premix
> -MAYHEMS XT1 contains up to 90% EG.
> (although I assume they are referring to the concentrate).
> 
> I just made my first batch of DIY coolant and used only 5% propylene Glycol. I will report back if any issues, it is a brand new reservoir so should be easy to tell.
> Seems to be within 1 degree of the previous EK coolant I was using.
> 
> IM DONE spending $44 on 2 liters of coolant when I can make 30 liters for about $27!
> No wonder why EK pushes their coolant so hard


Nice build! When I first realized I had a discolored soft tubing problem (EK Duraclear) I initially explored EK's ZMT tubing as an option but was worried that it would clash with my high RGB build. I see now that it can look nice, as it does with yours, I like how the RGB spill on it coming from your VRM shroud, ZMT has a nice look to it, but I felt that I was being called to dive into hard-tubing and decided to accept the challenge and skip right over 12/8 PETG for 14/10 Acrylic considering I couldn't decide between 12 or 16 OD tubing and 10 ID is the same size as the fitting orifices so there is zero loss of diameter from fitting to tubing and I felt 16 OD was a bit too wide, even with a larger case (View 71).

Concerning EK's Cryofuel, I had a serious problem with some that I recently purchased that ended up putting white gunk in my loop. At first I thought it was plasticizer (I have that too, lime green goo in the bottom of my front rad, no way to get it out from what I gather) but no it was from the Cryofuel. So for now I'm just using pure distilled water. I should explore kill coils, or just put a piece of silver in the distro plate as a safety measure to ward of micro-biota growth.



J7SC said:


> Tx - I like yours above, too
> Per attachment, the fastest I can get a single card to with GPUz 'render' (< fairly light load) is 2235 MHz @ 1.06x-1.07x (GPUz vs MSI AB). Both GB Aorus WB Xtreme were new (Dec '18 build), and both have unique custom PCBs, and both have Micron VRAM. Samsung would have been preferable, but Micron runs slightly tighter timings, though apparently a bit hotter. 'Typical' GPU game clocks are 2190 to 2205 for a single card, with VRAM around 2061 - 2075 max before FPS drop, though no artifacts
> 
> As to 'Micron memory failure', I think we already had that discussion...2080 (non-Ti) with the same VRAM and controller were not affected, and since most, though not all, early 2080 Ti used Micron and OEM style PCBs (some of which had a manufacturing and testing problem NVidia finally confirmed), Micron was fingered, never mind that there were also a few Samsung-equipped 2080 Ti cards that failed...not looking for yet another discussion on this, but here's a decent write-up which came out after initial 'specialist' writers and YouTubers had their say https://www.techspot.com/news/77445-nvidia-addresses-failing-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-cards.html
> 
> Going back to the thread-theme of* water-cooling*, 2nd attachment below shows GPU MHz - temp relationship for 2080 Ti (from THW). Cooling these cards as much is possible is important and rewarding performance wise. On my build, I use separate CPU and GPU loops...the GPU loop on its own has 2x D5 pumps and 3x RX360 (360/55) rads. Even with Unigine Superposition 8K run for BOTH cards per NVLink (long and stressful bench), temps went from 23 C ambient to no higher than 36 C. So no matter what the card model, VRAM or silicone lottery draw, water-cooling makes a lot of sense with these (unless one has a sibling who knows how to poor LN2 while one games for hours  )


Ok time for me to come clean, I actually did purchase a used GB WF Xtreme from ebay, I won the auction at $1169 and with tax it came out to $1309! Yikes! I immediately was filled with remorse, like I had zero excitement upon winning the auction. When it arrived I was in awe at the heft and craftsmanship but while I was waiting for it to arrive I learned about the high failure Micron memory failure rate and then it dawned on me that the relative glut of this variant on ebay from the same seller were in all likelihood refurbished units that suffered from Micron memory failure from GB. The card had a "30 day warranty / return window" and when it arrived I availed myself of it, not wanting to experience micron memory failure on day 31 of the 30 day return window and be sitting with a $1309 paper-weight. About 2 weeks after then, after scouring both ebay and craigslist for used 2080 Ti on a daily basis I found a 300a unit that was pulled from an Alienware Aurora that was listed both on ebay and on CL (same listing, ebay seller with 400 100% positive feedback) who agreed to terminate the listing for local sale @ $700. After meeting with them I learned he also had a Phanteks Glacier WB and I offered $750 for the card + WB. I should have inquired about the memory type before going through with it but the deal was too good to pass up. The seller also gave me a rather ornate, machined back-plate with recesses for two small fans (fans included) that they said helped bring the temp of the card down by 5C. I thought it was overkill at the time, but when I got home and put the WB on with the factory Aurora back-plate, after gaming and benchmarking a bit I felt the backplate and it was PIPING hot, like I'm talking cook an egg on it hot, like you wouldn't want to keep your hand on the back-plate for more than 5-10 seconds, near uncomfortably hot. It was so hot that I ran +0 MHz on the memory because just +500 MHz exacerbated the issue. I then made the fatal error of replacing the Aurora back-plate for EK's Quantum (polished nickel, as seen in my build vlog) back-plate that, per the instructions and by design, did not recommend placing thermal pads between it and the back-side of the PCB where the memory banks were. It was only 3-4 days after swapping the back-plate out did the card die. I explain this somewhere along the line in my build vlog but I remember after changing out the back-plate noticing how the GPU core temp dropped from 48-50C to 42-43C and failing to understand / attribute this to the fact that the memory modules were no longer dealing with the heat through the back-plate > GPU thermal pad > GPU core > water block (hence core temp dropping 5-7C) It was then that I realized the purpose of the ornate machined back-plate, which I will include pictures of below. Fast forward to about a month later of trying to secure an EVGA variant with Samsung GDDR6 for under $1000 (I feel incredibly lucky to have acquired my XC2, which does +1100 MHz memory, 2070 MHz core @ 1.013v @ 340w with 2.5 years remaining on the warranty for $900) and I was really surprised that the same back-plate is now luke-warm, borderline cool to the touch even at +1100 MHz on the memory. The Micron memory had to have exceeded 90-100C before failing. Given how hot that back-plate was I'm certain that it was at 90C even with the back-plate (but no sensors nor IR thermometer to verify). The memory temp now is that one bank runs at what the core runs at (40-48C) and the others run around 5C under that. The irony that I was worried about Micron memory failure with the GB WF Xtreme and then experienced first-hand with a different card only a short time later isn't lost on me.

At this point I'm not even entirely sure as to whether or not the failure of the card was due to inadequate thermal pad contact with the modules and the water-block given that the previous owner felt the need to use this machined back-plate in conjunction with the WB. Given the myriad reports of early 2080 Ti catching on fire (yes, literally catching on fire), given the high inventory of GB WF Xtreme from only one particular seller on ebay (100% certain they are all refurbished / having suffered memory failure at some point), given the multiple anecdotal reports of Micron memory failure (one here in recent past amounted to "I went through 4 2080 Ti, 3 with Micron memory failed, and the one I have now that didn't has Samsung memory) let alone the fact that Nvidia saw fit to drop Micron altogether from all the cards that they themselves sell I'm most certain that the high heat from the memory contributed to premature failure. Youre not going to see it with 36C load temps on the core with 3x 360 radiator allocated just to the GPU, but ask yourself, who else has that much rad surface area solely for this GPU? I have a 420 and 360 radiator shared by both CPU monoblock and GPU and that's above average in terms of rad surface area. Normal temps with GB WF Xtreme are around 45-50C if I remember correctly with avg. above avg. rad surface area, and if that memory behaved the same as it did under my phanteks block at 45-50C core then that would explain the high failure rate of just this variant and hence the high number of them on ebay from one particular seller (who is probably buying them in volume directly from GB at discount, or for all we know, this is GB's ebay account and this is how they reduce the cost of RMA replacement on their end).

2200 MHz is incredible, and part of me is kicking myself in the ass for not just holding onto that card considering that I'm now out -$750 (+$400, amazingly I managed to sell the broken 300a card listed as "Broken, for parts" on ebay) -$900 (XC2 Ultra) = $1250 or around the same amount of money for 2080 Ti had I simply kept that GB WF Xtreme. Would that memory have failed? Who knows, possibly? Consolation is that memory speed is of utmost importance to RT apparently and this Samsung does at least +1100 MHz (10% difference between +500 and +1200 MHz in Port Royal!) and the ICX sensors and 2.5 years remaining on the warranty are of utmost importance to me. I was afraid that GB's RMA procedure was replacement of failed sub-component / memory with like-kind. If they simply swap out failed Micron memory for new and turn around and flip those units on ebay with no warranty, that is a gamble I don't recommend anyone take.

As for water-cooled performance, nothing beats it! Here's superposition. I can't believe 2080 Ti FE on air drops all the way to 1650 MHz at the end of Superposition @ 80C! That's an insane performance drop. Water-cooling is hands down the way to go. 2080 Ti FE Port Royal is only 7950! My card under water is 9200 @ +500 Mem and 10,200 +1200 MHz on the memory (8k to 10k = 25% gain) That's 12.5% faster from core and another 12.5% faster from memory overclock keeping core above 2050 MHz through the bench!

I forgot to mention that another concern of my with GB WF XTreme is the way the card is assembled, leaving the owner no way to service the block / change TIM. Apparently there is no way to take the card apart to do this? I mean great looking card, and it would have fit my motherboard perfectly, but Micron memory, inability to service the card, and fairly high price had me looking elsewhere for my 2080 Ti upgrade.






Your 2 Way 2080 Ti SLI score is incredible though accounting for scaling loss, if I multiply my 8k score by 2 it's still just shy of yours.



ishay said:


> 4 years old build and still going strong


That's very spacious, does that help with temps? Looks good either way, love how clean it is, and the water temp gauge is a nice touch, just hoping that water temp sensor isn't aluminum like the one Bykski sells (love their fittings though, half the price of EK and they exceed EK in quality, looks and feel)


----------



## Bartdude

J7SC said:


> When I first started the latest build project (sig link) and decided on some copper piping and such, I had a few serious shopping trips to HomeDepot...per attachment, I picked up that table saw, Carson hole saw and various other 'HD' related tools. The table saw blade (metal spec, incl. copper) made a huge racket (> 110 + db ?), apart from heating things up a lot. The Carson hole saws were also far less useful than anticipated.
> 
> The Dremel tool saved the day though - including being much better (and quicker) at cutting copper piping with the Dremel metal cutting wheels :headscrat . The same holds for cutting through layers of the modular TT Core P5 metal to allow for custom connections between the 'front' panel (which houses mobo, dual GPUs, CPU, 2x 360/55 rads) and the back which houses a further 3x 360/55 rads, as well as 4x pumps, 2x reservoirs etc. And as others mentioned, for related plastic and acrylic cutting a small saw blade on a variable-speed drill did the trick.
> 
> The circular table saw and other equipment will still come in handy for other 'home improvement' projects, but for PC modding, Dremel and select small saw blades ( @ Gilles3000 ) are king, IMO :2cents:
> 
> Don't know where you would purchase in the US but here in the UK we use THESE to cut copper pipe, The are precise and take seconds to cut.


----------



## J7SC

Bartdude said:


> J7SC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know where you would purchase in the US but here in the UK we use THESE to cut copper pipe, The are precise and take seconds to cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> ...For normal pipe cutting, yes...I have several of those (bought here in Canada), but some of the copper pipe cuts were at an angle.
Click to expand...


----------



## broodro0ster

Here is an update of mine after installing the Heatkiller pump/res combo, which I'm very happy with. It dampens the vibrations of the pump a lot better than the EK mount did, which makes my system a lot more silent.


----------



## GAN77

broodro0ster said:


> Here is an update of mine after installing the Heatkiller pump/res combo


Great view! Everything is very neat and beautiful!


----------



## chibi

broodro0ster said:


> Here is an update of mine after installing the Heatkiller pump/res combo.



Nicely done, how is the bottom chamber plumbed? :thumb:


----------



## broodro0ster

GAN77 said:


> Great view! Everything is very neat and beautiful!


Thank you!



chibi said:


> Nicely done, how is the bottom chamber plumbed? :thumb:


Thanks man. Here are some more details of what's in the bottom chamber: https://imgur.com/a/lw1SyXe


----------



## skupples

smart man, putting the front radiator with the ports up top. Forgetting to do this, then trying to get that bubble out, even with 400LPH, is a pain in the ass.


----------



## broodro0ster

skupples said:


> smart man, putting the front radiator with the ports up top. Forgetting to do this, then trying to get that bubble out, even with 400LPH, is a pain in the ass.


I don't know if it matters that much to be honest. I have my ports up, but that water (and air) that enter the radiators, needs to go all the way to the bottom first before it can come up again.
I just fill up my res completely to the top and then I lay down my case on it's side to bleed it. 30 seconds on 1 side, then 30 seconds on the other side. And top off the res again between every transition so I don't pull air from the res inside the pump. 
I keep doing this until I don't hear any more bubbles going through the loop. Usually I have to do this 3-4 times to each side. So in less than 10 minutes it's completely bled.
Then I open my res again and suck a bit of fluid out of the res with my fill bottle, so there is some air inside the res which is needed for thermal expansion.

I've found the tilting technique the most efficient one to bleed a loop. I tried all kind different things like shaking etc, but it only helps a little bit.


----------



## J7SC

broodro0ster said:


> Here is an update of mine after installing the Heatkiller pump/res combo, which I'm very happy with. It dampens the vibrations of the pump a lot better than the EK mount did, which makes my system a lot more silent.


 
Noice and puueerrdy ! ...And those 90 degree hard-tube bends :thumb:


----------



## ruffhi

broodro0ster said:


> Here is an update of mine after installing the Heatkiller pump/res combo, which I'm very happy with. It dampens the vibrations of the pump a lot better than the EK mount did, which makes my system a lot more silent.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Very nice. I like what you have squeezed into the Fractal Design case. And the tucked away drain system - excellent.


----------



## Ovrclck

Trying to figure out where to place my mcp35x2 in an S5 with 240 in front. One idea is to mount on the 240.

Does anyone sell a adapter plate that can mount to a rad that is wide enough to hold a mcp35x2 with attached 150ml res?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

broodro0ster said:


> Here is an update of mine after installing the Heatkiller pump/res combo, which I'm very happy with. It dampens the vibrations of the pump a lot better than the EK mount did, which makes my system a lot more silent.


Very beautiful. Every time I see a build like this I want to go hard tubing, then I remember I've done 4 complete tear downs in the last year and the madness passes. Then I come back here and I want to tear it all down again.


----------



## FedeX299I57640X

My build


----------



## kroaton

Went from EK red blood to cloud white, now RGB lighting is shining


----------



## Sc00ter

My completed build. I initially started with 2x EK360 PE radiators and the EK G1 distro plate. However, in the end I decided optimal cooling was the better option. So I returned the distro plate to Microcenter and grabbed a 3rd 360 PE rad. 

I contemplated going with hard tubing but soft tubing has been extremely convenient and even allowed me to swap my Rog Strix X470 + Ryzen 2700x for a Rog Strix X570 + 3900x, without disconnecting any tubing or draining the loop. 

Some of the relevant specs:
- EVGA 2080 ti FTW3 Ultra
- Ryzen 3900x
- 3x EK-CoolStream PE 360 radiators
- EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM
- Asus Rog Strix x570-E Motherboard
- Barrow Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting




















I've been pleased with the temps from this setup. 20+ minutes of Prime95 doesn't push the 3900x past 52c, holding pretty steady at 48c with a -0.05 VCore offset. 20 minutes of Heaven 'Extreme' keeps the GPU temp maxed at 45c @ 2100Mhz (+110 core and +800 mem). In game GPU temps are anywhere from 37-43c, depending on the game, with a 3440x1440 monitor. This is all with a fan curve set such that fan speeds never exceed 1150rpm. So it's relatively silent. 

I know I could have fit a 360 XE at the bottom but when making the final decision on the 3rd rad, the price to performance from the PE to the XE just didn't seem worth it. Especially since the XE doesn't really start to leap over the PE until it's in push/pull, which would have started making things pretty tight. Especially with the bottom IO connectors on the motherboard. 

Overall, I'm quite happy with how it turned out after a few different iterations.


----------



## Hequaqua

Sc00ter said:


> My completed build. I initially started with 2x EK360 PE radiators and the EK G1 distro plate. However, in the end I decided optimal cooling was the better option. So I returned the distro plate to Microcenter and grabbed a 3rd 360 PE rad.
> 
> I contemplated going with hard tubing but soft tubing has been extremely convenient and even allowed me to swap my Rog Strix X470 + Ryzen 2700x for a Rog Strix X570 + 3900x, without disconnecting any tubing or draining the loop.
> 
> Some of the relevant specs:
> - EVGA 2080 ti FTW3 Ultra
> - Ryzen 3900x
> - 3x EK-CoolStream PE 360 radiators
> - EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM
> - Asus Rog Strix x570-E Motherboard
> - Barrow Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been pleased with the temps from this setup. 20+ minutes of Prime95 doesn't push the 3900x past 52c, holding pretty steady at 48c with a -0.05 VCore offset. 20 minutes of Heaven 'Extreme' keeps the GPU temp maxed at 45c @ 2100Mhz (+110 core and +800 mem). In game GPU temps are anywhere from 37-43c, depending on the game, with a 3440x1440 monitor. This is all with a fan curve set such that fan speeds never exceed 1150rpm. So it's relatively silent.
> 
> I know I could have fit a 360 XE at the bottom but when making the final decision on the 3rd rad, the price to performance from the PE to the XE just didn't seem worth it. Especially since the XE doesn't really start to leap over the PE until it's in push/pull, which would have started making things pretty tight. Especially with the bottom IO connectors on the motherboard.
> 
> Overall, I'm quite happy with how it turned out after a few different iterations.


Love it man! :thumb:


----------



## Avacado

Sc00ter said:


> My completed build. I initially started with 2x EK360 PE radiators and the EK G1 distro plate. However, in the end I decided optimal cooling was the better option. So I returned the distro plate to Microcenter and grabbed a 3rd 360 PE rad.
> 
> I contemplated going with hard tubing but soft tubing has been extremely convenient and even allowed me to swap my Rog Strix X470 + Ryzen 2700x for a Rog Strix X570 + 3900x, without disconnecting any tubing or draining the loop.
> 
> Some of the relevant specs:
> - EVGA 2080 ti FTW3 Ultra
> - Ryzen 3900x
> - 3x EK-CoolStream PE 360 radiators
> - EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM
> - Asus Rog Strix x570-E Motherboard
> - Barrow Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been pleased with the temps from this setup. 20+ minutes of Prime95 doesn't push the 3900x past 52c, holding pretty steady at 48c with a -0.05 VCore offset. 20 minutes of Heaven 'Extreme' keeps the GPU temp maxed at 45c @ 2100Mhz (+110 core and +800 mem). In game GPU temps are anywhere from 37-43c, depending on the game, with a 3440x1440 monitor. This is all with a fan curve set such that fan speeds never exceed 1150rpm. So it's relatively silent.
> 
> I know I could have fit a 360 XE at the bottom but when making the final decision on the 3rd rad, the price to performance from the PE to the XE just didn't seem worth it. Especially since the XE doesn't really start to leap over the PE until it's in push/pull, which would have started making things pretty tight. Especially with the bottom IO connectors on the motherboard.
> 
> Overall, I'm quite happy with how it turned out after a few different iterations.


Looks great! I have a similar build. I am curious though, on the side and bottom rad are the fans inlet or outlet?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Looks like that bottom T and drain valve is not going to be friendly for flow it's worse than a designed 90 degree fitting.
At least there is only one


----------



## Sc00ter

Hequaqua said:


> Love it man! :thumb:


Thanks!



Avacado said:


> Looks great! I have a similar build. I am curious though, on the side and bottom rad are the fans inlet or outlet?


I tested a few different intake/exhaust fan setups before finally settling on the following:

Bottom rad = intake
Top rad = exhaust
Side rad = exhaust
rear single fan = intake

Initially, it was setup as follows:

Bottom rad = intake
Top rad = exhaust
Side rad = intake
rear single fan = exhaust


However, after some testing, the above setup keeps temps consistently 2-3c cooler. Nothing to write home about, by any stretch. But fun to test with and learn from. 





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks like that bottom T and drain valve is not going to be friendly for flow it's worse than a designed 90 degree fitting.
> At least there is only one


Yeah, when I put the 3rd rad in, I flipped the top rad to have the fittings in the rear, rather than the front. This simple change allowed me to re-route my runs and remove three 90 degree fittings in the process.

However, I sat in front of this build for considerable time, trying to figure out where the heck I should put the drain port. The result you see is the best I could come up with. But I am more than happy to accept advice on another solution as I don't personally love it. 

One solution that I considered, which I'm not entirely opposed to, is installing the drain port on the front lower port of the GPU block and moving the GPU inlet tube to the rear lower port. With that said, the drain port is heavy and the idea of adding more weight to the GPU is not ideal. And I do fear that having the drain port front and center on the GPU block will be an eyesore. But having it there would surely make draining the GPU/CPU portion of the loop much easier for a GPU/CPU swap, in the future

Not to mention, in the current configuration, draining most of the water is impossible without attaching my EK leak tester to the top of the reservoir and using that to force air/water through the drain port.


----------



## chibi

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks like that bottom T and drain valve is not going to be friendly for flow it's worse than a designed 90 degree fitting.
> At least there is only one



How is a drain valve in that position detriment to flow?


----------



## ThrashZone

Sc00ter said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Yeah, when I put the 3rd rad in, I flipped the top rad to have the fittings in the rear, rather than the front. This simple change allowed me to re-route my runs and remove three 90 degree fittings in the process.
> 
> However, I sat in front of this build for considerable time, trying to figure out where the heck I should put the drain port. The result you see is the best I could come up with. But I am more than happy to accept advice on another solution as I don't personally love it.
> 
> One solution that I considered, which I'm not entirely opposed to, is installing the drain port on the front lower port of the GPU block and moving the GPU inlet tube to the rear lower port. With that said, the drain port is heavy and the idea of adding more weight to the GPU is not ideal. And I do fear that having the drain port front and center on the GPU block will be an eyesore. But having it there would surely make draining the GPU/CPU portion of the loop much easier for a GPU/CPU swap, in the future
> 
> Not to mention, in the current configuration, draining most of the water is impossible without attaching my EK leak tester to the top of the reservoir and using that to force air/water through the drain port.


Hi,
Yeah a multi port rad would come in handy on the bottom so it could drain and you could just use a 45 degree or another straight fitting.
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-EX360-Radiator-Triple-Multiport/dp/B008BWR0SY


----------



## iamjanco

So i've been cleaning the *new* fittings I have on hand for use in my combo MB/MP builds, and I noticed that a slight but noticeable amount of oil residue accumulated in the distilled water I'm using in the sonic cleaner.

The fittings I've cycled through the cleaner thus far:









Difficult to see in the image, but there's definitely a slightly oily residue in the water after using it to clean those fittings:









Other fittings I haven't cleaned yet:









Just figured I'd mention it because the matter of rinsing new fittings before use has been broached before.


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> So i've been cleaning the *new* fittings I have on hand for use in my combo MB/MP builds, and I noticed that a slight but noticeable amount of oil residue accumulated in the distilled water I'm using in the sonic cleaner.
> 
> The fittings I've cycled through the cleaner thus far:
> 
> 
> Difficult to see in the image, but there's definitely a slightly oily residue in the water after using it to clean those fittings:
> 
> 
> Other fittings I haven't cleaned yet:
> 
> 
> Just figured I'd mention it because the matter of rinsing new fittings before use has been broached before.


I would guess there is a slight amount of lube applied to the o-rings to allow for rotary fitting to rotate and for the o-rings to not dry out and crack.


----------



## iamjanco

Could be; I'll be using them before they have a chance to do so though. I'll probably also rewet them as I mount them.


----------



## iamjanco

Just a follow up to my earlier post today. Getting there:


----------



## J7SC

iamjanco said:


> Just a follow up to my earlier post today. Getting there:
> 
> View attachment 341920


 
...very impressive & getting there :thumb: I reckon you might end up with two unique problems I ran into (w/ my build you know): 

1.) sheer weight, especially when everything is full of liquids 
2.) the sheer volume & speed of air moved by all the fans meant that I had to rearrange my office (re. distance to window curtains, papers on desk etc  ) 

But that's all part of the fun of doing an unusual build...hope you make a quick vid-clip when it's all finished and booted up (_well before_ your street loses power...)


----------



## iamjanco

J7SC said:


> ...very impressive & getting there :thumb: I reckon you might end up with two unique problems I ran into (w/ my build you know):
> 
> 1.) sheer weight, especially when everything is full of liquids
> 2.) the sheer volume & speed of air moved by all the fans meant that I had to rearrange my office (re. distance to window curtains, papers on desk etc  )
> 
> But that's all part of the fun of doing an unusual build...hope you make a quick vid-clip when it's all finished and booted up (_well before_ your street loses power...)


One for sure; two, perhaps. I've arranged the dual MORA 420 rig so that it's blowing away from my work area because I didn't want any heat blowing toward either me or the test bench proper. As for noise, I'll measure that once I get to the fans wired up. 

I should be able to pump liquid in the next few days, at least to do a loop test of both the upper and lower loops from the junctions on the right side of the test bench back to the radiators. 

Vid clips should be in the works as well (at least I'm planning on them). I'll break out the tripod and the Nikon D810 for those once I get that far.

Street lose power? Maybe, but I think it's more likely this place will burn down first before that happens.


----------



## Barefooter

chibi said:


> I would guess there is a slight amount of lube applied to the o-rings to allow for rotary fitting to rotate and for the o-rings to not dry out and crack.


Yeah I have seen lube on o-rings too, I'm sure that is what it is from.



iamjanco said:


> Just a follow up to my earlier post today. Getting there:
> 
> View attachment 341920


Man I can't wait to see this moving forward:thumb:

I always keep a small short jar of water to dip the fittings in as I install them. I also leave any rotary fittings soaking in the water for five minutes or so, then turn them several times and put them back in the water for another soak. It really makes a big difference on how easy it is to turn the rotary fittings when the internal o-ring is lubed with water.


----------



## iamjanco

Barefooter said:


> Yeah I have seen lube on o-rings too, I'm sure that is what it is from.
> 
> 
> Man I can't wait to see this moving forward:thumb:
> 
> I always keep a small short jar of water to dip the fittings in as I install them. I also leave any rotary fittings soaking in the water for five minutes or so, then turn them several times and put them back in the water for another soak. It really makes a big difference on how easy it is to turn the rotary fittings when the internal o-ring is lubed with water.


Thanks  Yeah, I'm using a bunch of rotary fittings and wetting them definitely makes a difference. Also works great on the valves; so much easier to turn the handles when they're wet.


----------



## J7SC

iamjanco said:


> One for sure; two, perhaps. I've arranged the dual MORA 420 rig so that it's blowing away from my work area because I didn't want any heat blowing toward either me or the test bench proper. As for noise, I'll measure that once I get to the fans wired up. (...)


 
I currently use 9x GentleTyphoon (as well as 3x Noctuas and 6x Corsair ML 120s)...thinking of exchanging some of the ML 120s with an additional 3x GentleTyphoon I have left over from another build. These are 3k rpm fans and not really that loud (plus pwm for adjustment) for the amount of air they move, but they're certainly not silent, either. I set my (open Core P5) build up so that all the air gets drawn in from the left (by a window) and exhausts on the right...the sheer movement of air through the room is quite something


----------



## iamjanco

18x 1600RPM PWM SW3s myself.

I've got two more 360s (HL SR2s) I'm thinking about hanging on the sides of the test bench such that I can split up the VRMs from the CPU and the GPUs from the 900P's. Oh, and 12x 120 SW3s for them. We'll see once I get that far.


----------



## J7SC

iamjanco said:


> 18x 1600RPM PWM SW3s myself.
> 
> I've got two more 360s (HL SR2s) I'm thinking about hanging on the sides of the test bench such that I can split up the VRMs from the CPU and the GPUs from the 900P's. Oh, and 12x 120 SW3s for them. We'll see once I get that far.


 
...I wish I would own a 'farm with a barn' and thus could cool everything with a 5-stage cascade :upsidedwn


----------



## iamjanco

J7SC said:


> ...I wish I would own a 'farm with a barn' and thus could cool everything with a 5-stage cascade :upsidedwn


Found a pic for you:


----------



## J7SC

iamjanco said:


> Found a pic for you:


 
:thumb:...I actually viewed that one earlier  

...but then I developed the spacious barn plan for...


----------



## iamjanco

Go ahead, build a barn and do it. Would love to see how much something like all that costs.


----------



## J7SC

iamjanco said:


> Go ahead, build a barn and do it. Would love to see how much something like all that costs.


 
...I'm going to demonstrate innovation and job creation with this - and apply for appropriate funding


----------



## sdmf74

I was removing the stock power & reset vandal switches from my caselabs case and caselabs had them crimped on so tight one of the female crimps ripped a terminal out of the switch.

I noticed that most of the new vandal switches now have 6 terminals instead of 5 like the original caselabs power switch.

My question is if I buy one of the modmytoys momentary 22/19mm power switches with the power button logo in the middle will I still be able to use the same 4 leads from my caselabs case to hook it up?

I just want to make sure I dont need to wire in a 5th wire or jump to a 5th terminal or something on the new switch. 
Everything online shows the new switch terminals being labeled 1-6 instead of the NC,NO, C, +,- labels on the current switch, kind of confusing.


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> 18x 1600RPM PWM SW3s myself.



What controller are you using to modulate the SW3s?


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> What controller are you using to modulate the SW3s?


An AQ6XT with 2x Quadros between it and the two Splitty9s. Haven't wired up the AQ6 and Quadros yet, but in theory the setup should work. 

Fallback plan would by ITDIVA's fix. I've got the parts on hand for that as well, and oscilloscopes to test that setup if need be.


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> An AQ6XT with 2x Quadros between it and the two Splitty9s. Haven't wired up the AQ6 and Quadros yet, but in theory the setup should work.
> 
> Fallback plan would by ITDIVA's fix. I've got the parts on hand for that as well, and oscilloscopes to test that setup if need be.



Lmk if the Quadro's work, I recall you mentioning them to me in the Aquaero thread. :thumb:


----------



## caraboose

Yeah it's older stuff, but hey... if it ain't broke.
I have tubing in the basement, just waiting on the Canadian Dollar to suck less before I bite the bullet on new fittings... apparently they don't make 1/2ID by 5/8OD tubing that doesn't suck anymore.


----------



## iamjanco

Just a few minor updates from slightly different angles. Wiring up the pumps are next:




Spoiler


----------



## broodro0ster

iamjanco said:


> Just a few minor updates from slightly different angles. Wiring up the pumps are next:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 342254
> 
> 
> View attachment 342256
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 342258


I see you're looking forward to Crysis Remastered


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> Just a few minor updates from slightly different angles. Wiring up the pumps are next:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 342254
> 
> 
> View attachment 342256
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 342258



God damn.


----------



## J7SC

iamjanco said:


> Just a few minor updates from slightly different angles. Wiring up the pumps are next:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 342254
> 
> 
> View attachment 342256
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 342258


 
...now that's some quality w-cooling ! What make / model is that black tubing - EK ZMT ?


----------



## Barefooter

sdmf74 said:


> I was removing the stock power & reset vandal switches from my caselabs case and caselabs had them crimped on so tight one of the female crimps ripped a terminal out of the switch.
> 
> I noticed that most of the new vandal switches now have 6 terminals instead of 5 like the original caselabs power switch.
> 
> My question is if I buy one of the modmytoys momentary 22/19mm power switches with the power button logo in the middle will I still be able to use the same 4 leads from my caselabs case to hook it up?
> 
> I just want to make sure I dont need to wire in a 5th wire or jump to a 5th terminal or something on the new switch.
> Everything online shows the new switch terminals being labeled 1-6 instead of the NC,NO, C, +,- labels on the current switch, kind of confusing.


I swapped out my stock CaseLabs *power and reset* switches with no problem. The power switch was from ModMyToys and the reset switch I got from PPCs and they both came with the wire harness.


----------



## Rainmaker91

sdmf74 said:


> I was removing the stock power & reset vandal switches from my caselabs case and caselabs had them crimped on so tight one of the female crimps ripped a terminal out of the switch.
> 
> I noticed that most of the new vandal switches now have 6 terminals instead of 5 like the original caselabs power switch.
> 
> My question is if I buy one of the modmytoys momentary 22/19mm power switches with the power button logo in the middle will I still be able to use the same 4 leads from my caselabs case to hook it up?
> 
> I just want to make sure I dont need to wire in a 5th wire or jump to a 5th terminal or something on the new switch.
> Everything online shows the new switch terminals being labeled 1-6 instead of the NC,NO, C, +,- labels on the current switch, kind of confusing.


Hmm... It's a standard SPDT momentary switch which explains 3 of the leads, then there is the standard 2 leads for continuous power to the LED. Without looking too much into it, I figure that the sixth pole is probably for momentary LED power (as in it's only shining when the button is pressed). There are other things it can be as well such as a HDD LED or even the option to always be powered on, without actually having the button in front of me to play with I can't say for certain. In either case it won't be difficult to figure out what each of the leads to once you have the switch and can do some testing.


----------



## iamjanco

J7SC said:


> ...now that's some quality w-cooling ! What make / model is that black tubing - EK ZMT ?



EK ZMT. Seems to work fine with the *Bitspower fittings designed specifically for Tygon*, though I've had to use *this tool* to tighten up the fittings in a number of cases. I also have Tygon hand.


----------



## sdmf74

Barefooter said:


> I swapped out my stock CaseLabs *power and reset* switches with no problem. The power switch was from ModMyToys and the reset switch I got from PPCs and they both came with the wire harness.


Looks clean, I probably should have replaced the wiring too but they were reusable. I like how the new white modmytoys power button looks, much better quality than the old caselabs (blue) power button, The plastic on my blue one was all cracked & spiderwebbed around the led ring, 
not to mention the button wasnt clicky & responsive like the new one. Looks better in person.




















iamjanco said:


> EK ZMT. Seems to work fine with the *Bitspower fittings designed specifically for Tygon*, though I've had to use *this tool* to tighten up the fittings in a number of cases. I also have Tygon hand.


Yeah thats the only issue with ZMT, they manufacture the "ID" a little too small, makes tightening compression fittings a chore. I did all mine by hand but my fingers were pretty sore afterwards!


----------



## Sc00ter

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks like that bottom T and drain valve is not going to be friendly for flow it's worse than a designed 90 degree fitting.
> At least there is only one


Welp, I took your advice and changed my loop up a bit. 

I swapped the EK EX-RES 140 D5 pump for the Corsair Hydro XD5 pump. I've been eyeing this pump for a while since I personally like the iCue ecosystem and the XD5 unit flows well with it. Not to mention the Corsair pump having 3 side intake ports and 2 top ports (vs 1 side intake port and 1 top port on the EK unit). It made placement of the water temp stop plug and drain port MUCH easier to work with, resulting in a cleaner end result.

I moved the drain port up to the pump and reconfigured a few runs. In the end, I eliminated three more 90 degree fittings. I still had to use a few 45 degree fittings to avoid tubing kinks. But those should be much less restrictive. I can't believe that I initially had seven 90 degree fittings in my loop. Two of which were attached to one another, making it even more restrictive.

During this process I also swapped out the 3x LL120 fans on the top radiator and 1x LL120 rear exhaust fan for proper ML120 static pressure fans. I already had 6x ML120's on the other two radiators, so this helped keep the whole setup more consistent with better radiator fans. Combined, all of the above changes have lead to around a 2c drop in average water temps and I am now manually setting my pump to run around 80%, rather than the full 100%. As a result, the pump whine that shows up in that upper 15% range is now eliminated. I'm sure I could go with a lower RPM on the pump but I hear no difference between 50% - 80% so I may as well let it spin a bit faster. 

Before:



















After:



















Coolant temp after 2 hours of gaming (2080 ti @ 2100Mhz). *9c* delta over ambient.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah 45 degree fittings are fine looks great too :thumb:


----------



## Avacado

You could also ditch the 45 degree rotaries coming off the pump and just run the tube directly to it. Then you would only have 2 45's coming off the GPU.


----------



## Avacado

You could also ditch the 45 degree rotaries coming off the pump and run the tube straight to it. Then you would only have 2x 45's off the GPU block,


----------



## Avacado

Sc00ter said:


> Welp, I took your advice and changed my loop up a bit.
> 
> I swapped the EK EX-RES 140 D5 pump for the Corsair Hydro XD5 pump. I've been eyeing this pump for a while since I personally like the iCue ecosystem and the XD5 unit flows well with it. Not to mention the Corsair pump having 3 side intake ports and 2 top ports (vs 1 side intake port and 1 top port on the EK unit). It made placement of the water temp stop plug and drain port MUCH easier to work with, resulting in a cleaner end result.
> 
> I moved the drain port up to the pump and reconfigured a few runs. In the end, I eliminated three more 90 degree fittings. I still had to use a few 45 degree fittings to avoid tubing kinks. But those should be much less restrictive. I can't believe that I initially had seven 90 degree fittings in my loop. Two of which were attached to one another, making it even more restrictive.
> 
> During this process I also swapped out the 3x LL120 fans on the top radiator and 1x LL120 rear exhaust fan for proper ML120 static pressure fans. I already had 6x ML120's on the other two radiators, so this helped keep the whole setup more consistent with better radiator fans. Combined, all of the above changes have lead to around a 2c drop in average water temps and I am now manually setting my pump to run around 80%, rather than the full 100%. As a result, the pump whine that shows up in that upper 15% range is now eliminated. I'm sure I could go with a lower RPM on the pump but I hear no difference between 50% - 80% so I may as well let it spin a bit faster.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coolant temp after 2 hours of gaming (2080 ti @ 2100Mhz). *9c* delta over ambient.


You could also ditch the 45 degree rotaries coming off the pump and run the tube straight to it. Then you would only have 2x 45's off the GPU block.


----------



## Avacado

You could also ditch the 45 degree rotaries coming off the pump and run the tube straight to it. Then you would only have 2x 45's off the GPU block.


----------



## J7SC

...or use both 45 degree rotaries and curved tube in conjunction for a smooth flow (below w/ CPU)


----------



## Sc00ter

Avacado said:


> You could also ditch the 45 degree rotaries coming off the pump and run the tube straight to it. Then you would only have 2x 45's off the GPU block.


I tried that but the Pump-to-GPU and Lower Rad-to-Pump bends were too sharp, creating slight kinks in the tubing that I wasn't thrilled with. The 45's solved the issue.

I'm done messing with it, at this point. After 3 iterations of the build, with the current setup my idle coolant temps sit at a very low ~4c delta over ambient when the PC isn't under load and fans are at an extremely quiet 700RPM. Under load, the coolant temp delta over ambient stays under 10c after hours of gaming. It's more than adequate to keep GPU temps under 45c while fans remain at 1200RPM or lower with a silent pump.


----------



## Avacado

I feel you there. GG, I like it, very clean for a soft tubing build!


----------



## Sc00ter

Avacado said:


> I feel you there. GG, I like it, very clean for a soft tubing build!


Thank you!


----------



## jfrob75

Sc00ter said:


> Welp, I took your advice and changed my loop up a bit.
> 
> I swapped the EK EX-RES 140 D5 pump for the Corsair Hydro XD5 pump. I've been eyeing this pump for a while since I personally like the iCue ecosystem and the XD5 unit flows well with it. Not to mention the Corsair pump having 3 side intake ports and 2 top ports (vs 1 side intake port and 1 top port on the EK unit). It made placement of the water temp stop plug and drain port MUCH easier to work with, resulting in a cleaner end result.
> 
> I moved the drain port up to the pump and reconfigured a few runs. In the end, I eliminated three more 90 degree fittings. I still had to use a few 45 degree fittings to avoid tubing kinks. But those should be much less restrictive. I can't believe that I initially had seven 90 degree fittings in my loop. Two of which were attached to one another, making it even more restrictive.
> 
> During this process I also swapped out the 3x LL120 fans on the top radiator and 1x LL120 rear exhaust fan for proper ML120 static pressure fans. I already had 6x ML120's on the other two radiators, so this helped keep the whole setup more consistent with better radiator fans. Combined, all of the above changes have lead to around a 2c drop in average water temps and I am now manually setting my pump to run around 80%, rather than the full 100%. As a result, the pump whine that shows up in that upper 15% range is now eliminated. I'm sure I could go with a lower RPM on the pump but I hear no difference between 50% - 80% so I may as well let it spin a bit faster.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coolant temp after 2 hours of gaming (2080 ti @ 2100Mhz). *9c* delta over ambient.



I recently moved my build to the Lian Li Dynamic XL and installed a soft tubing cooling loop but I like your layout better than what I did. So I will make adjustments accordingly. Just one question. You really think the Corsair ML fans are better than the LL fans? According to Corsairs website the LL fans have a higher CFM rating than the ML fans. The static pressure for either fan type I could not find.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Dang @Avacado 
You posted the same thing 4 times once with a quote :thumb:


----------



## Avacado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Dang @Avacado
> You posted the same thing 4 times once with a quote :thumb:


Must have been some weird error.


----------



## ThrashZone

Avacado said:


> Must have been some weird error.


Hi,
Yep plenty of database errors
This thread is way too big over 11 thousand posts they need to lock it and make a new thread.


----------



## nyk20z3

Currently in a NZXt H1 rig running a 8700K but decided to go back in time since the Maximus IX boards where going for like $150 new so here we go. I am going to be using the recently released EK Distroblock but had a few questions.

The Distro does not allow for a front radiator just 25mm fans and even that is a tight squeeze. I was originally going to go with an EK PE but decided on a Nemesis 360 GTS since it has shown to be a strong performer and i saved a little bit of room. I will be cooling a 6700K, the power phases and a Strix 2080 Super. has any one had to cool similar components with just a 360 rad and had good results ?

Also as you can see in the pics its a tight squeeze from the rad ports to the distro ports that except the radiator feed so am i better off trying to use just angled fittings only or i can flip the rad so the ports are on the opposite side of the case and just bend 2 90's across the case?

The only logical thing to do here was run push and pull for max performance, but if i run 3 fans on the bottom of the rad then one will interfere with the distro ports so i will just run 2 on the bottom and 3 on top.


----------



## L N

What is the difference between the sapphire tri x r9 290x oc and r9 290x sapphire tri x. 

Are they the same card pcb wise. 

If so do they support Kraken G12 GPU cooler and do I need a copper shim?


----------



## Sc00ter

jfrob75 said:


> I recently moved my build to the Lian Li Dynamic XL and installed a soft tubing cooling loop but I like your layout better than what I did. So I will make adjustments accordingly. Just one question. You really think the Corsair ML fans are better than the LL fans? According to Corsairs website the LL fans have a higher CFM rating than the ML fans. The static pressure for either fan type I could not find.


I think you may have mixed up the CFM ratings for the fans. The ML120 is rated at *75 CFM* while the LL120 is rated at *43.25 CFM*.

ML120:
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...ns/ml-pro-config/p/CO-9050040-WW#tab-overview

LL120:
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Fans/ml-config/p/CO-9050072-WW#tab-tech-specs


The great thing about ML120's, is they're static pressure fans and static pressure fans do a much better job of pushing air through tighter spaces with higher resistance (ie. radiator fins). Air flow optimized fans like the LL120's can push some serious air, so long as there is nothing impeding the air flow, like a radiator or the grated area in the back of the 011 XL, where the exhaust fan mounts. As soon as you mount an LL120 to something that isn't a wide open hole, the air flow hits the point of resistance and scatters outwards and backwards, diminishing the overall performance of the fan.

I was easily able to see/feel the side-by-side difference for myself. With all my fans at the same RPM (1300RPM for testing) I noticed that the ML120's were able to push significantly more air through both the bottom and side radiators, compared to the LL120's on the top radiator. What's more... when putting my hand near the top of the case, above the LL120's, I felt a large amount of air 'bouncing back' out of the top of the case, rather than going through the radiator. 

After swapping the top LL120's for the ML120's, the amount of air making its way through the radiator fins now matches the other two radiators and there is no longer air bouncing back out of the top. I understand that this "test" is as far from scientific as it gets. But it doesn't take a rocket scientist to feel a notable difference in air flow, like I was able to. 

The ML120 exhaust fan is also getting more air out of the back of the case, through the grated area, compared to the LL120 at the same RPM. And since the ML120's are better at handling resistance, the LL120's fan blades were having to fight harder, making them noticeably louder. The LL120 had an audible 'humming' sound at 1200RPM, which the ML120 doesn't produce, at the same RPM. 

If you're looking for more detailed info from someone who actually knows what they are talking about (I'm just learning along the way), here's a video JayzTwoCents did, comparing static pressure vs air flow fans on a radiator. (Cliffs Notes: He found up to 5c lower GPU temps with the static pressure fan mounted to a radiator):






Also, since you have an 011 XL and will likely be pushing 9+ fans, I'll share another added benefit I found (the hard way) with the ML120's over the LL120's...

The ML120's have a max power draw of *0.225 Amps*. The LL120's have a max power draw of *0.3 Amps*. This is important because most fan headers are rated for a maximum of *1 Amp*. And though fans are rated for a max operating power draw, they can spike slightly above it during initial boot-up. I discovered this when I tried to plug 3xLL120's into a single fan header on my Corsair Commander Pro (via a 3-fan PWM splitter)... _Someone's reading this and already cringing, I'm sure._ 

Anyway, this rookie mistake resulted in a fried fan header on my brand new Commander Pro. Burning smell and all. 

However, when combined 3xML120's have a max operating power draw of just 0.675 Amps. So even if they do spike above that slightly at boot, they still remain safely below the 1 Amp threshold. In the end, this means you can safely run three sets of 3xML120's on just three fan headers on a commander pro, motherboard, other fan hub, without risk of doing any damage. In terms of the Commander Pro (which I've now to purchased twice), configuring your fans this way leaves 3 open fan headers to be used for the rear exhaust fan and your PWM water pump connector, while still leaving 1 open for a second pump or whatever else you want to use it for later on. 

Also, having 4 less RGB cables to deal with in the back of the case is another added bonus.


----------



## jfrob75

Sc00ter said:


> I think you may have mixed up the CFM ratings for the fans. The ML120 is rated at *75 CFM* while the LL120 is rated at *43.25 CFM*.
> 
> ML120:
> https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...ns/ml-pro-config/p/CO-9050040-WW#tab-overview
> 
> LL120:
> https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Fans/ml-config/p/CO-9050072-WW#tab-tech-specs
> 
> 
> The great thing about ML120's, is they're static pressure fans and static pressure fans do a much better job of pushing air through tighter spaces with higher resistance (ie. radiator fins). Air flow optimized fans like the LL120's can push some serious air, so long as there is nothing impeding the air flow, like a radiator or the grated area in the back of the 011 XL, where the exhaust fan mounts. As soon as you mount an LL120 to something that isn't a wide open hole, the air flow hits the point of resistance and scatters outwards and backwards, diminishing the overall performance of the fan.
> 
> I was easily able to see/feel the side-by-side difference for myself. With all my fans at the same RPM (1300RPM for testing) I noticed that the ML120's were able to push significantly more air through both the bottom and side radiators, compared to the LL120's on the top radiator. What's more... when putting my hand near the top of the case, above the LL120's, I felt a large amount of air 'bouncing back' out of the top of the case, rather than going through the radiator.
> 
> After swapping the top LL120's for the ML120's, the amount of air making its way through the radiator fins now matches the other two radiators and there is no longer air bouncing back out of the top. I understand that this "test" is as far from scientific as it gets. But it doesn't take a rocket scientist to feel a notable difference in air flow, like I was able to.
> 
> The ML120 exhaust fan is also getting more air out of the back of the case, through the grated area, compared to the LL120 at the same RPM. And since the ML120's are better at handling resistance, the LL120's fan blades were having to fight harder, making them noticeably louder. The LL120 had an audible 'humming' sound at 1200RPM, which the ML120 doesn't produce, at the same RPM.
> 
> If you're looking for more detailed info from someone who actually knows what they are talking about (I'm just learning along the way), here's a video JayzTwoCents did, comparing static pressure vs air flow fans on a radiator. (Cliffs Notes: He found up to 5c lower GPU temps with the static pressure fan mounted to a radiator):
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQG67V0m7vU
> 
> 
> Also, since you have an 011 XL and will likely be pushing 9+ fans, I'll share another added benefit I found (the hard way) with the ML120's over the LL120's...
> 
> The ML120's have a max power draw of *0.225 Amps*. The LL120's have a max power draw of *0.3 Amps*. This is important because most fan headers are rated for a maximum of *1 Amp*. And though fans are rated for a max operating power draw, they can spike slightly above it during initial boot-up. I discovered this when I tried to plug 3xLL120's into a single fan header on my Corsair Commander Pro (via a 3-fan PWM splitter)... _Someone's reading this and already cringing, I'm sure._
> 
> Anyway, this rookie mistake resulted in a fried fan header on my brand new Commander Pro. Burning smell and all.
> 
> However, when combined 3xML120's have a max operating power draw of just 0.675 Amps. So even if they do spike above that slightly at boot, they still remain safely below the 1 Amp threshold. In the end, this means you can safely run three sets of 3xML120's on just three fan headers on a commander pro, motherboard, other fan hub, without risk of doing any damage. In terms of the Commander Pro (which I've now to purchased twice), configuring your fans this way leaves 3 open fan headers to be used for the rear exhaust fan and your PWM water pump connector, while still leaving 1 open for a second pump or whatever else you want to use it for later on.
> 
> Also, having 4 less RGB cables to deal with in the back of the case is another added bonus.


Thanks for your reply and yes apparently I confused the CFM's, happens sometimes at my age. LOL
So far I have not had any issues running 3 LL's into one fan header on my commander pro but based on what you provided it probably is only a matter of time before I do. So I will be changing over to the ML's when I redo my layout.


----------



## Sc00ter

jfrob75 said:


> Thanks for your reply and yes apparently I confused the CFM's, happens sometimes at my age. LOL
> So far I have not had any issues running 3 LL's into one fan header on my commander pro but based on what you provided it probably is only a matter of time before I do. So I will be changing over to the ML's when I redo my layout.


I think you'll be happy with the switch. There is no doubt that the LL120's look better. But I have no regrets about switching to the ML'ss for that little extra performance and lower noise.


----------



## jfrob75

Sc00ter said:


> I think you'll be happy with the switch. There is no doubt that the LL120's look better. But I have no regrets about switching to the ML'ss for that little extra performance and lower noise.


It turns out that I was comparing the LL and ML rgb fans. Your non RGB ML fans are of course better in terms of static pressure and air flow. It also turns out that I have 2 different types of RGB, LL and HD. So, I was not paying very close attention when I purchased my fans. Now I have to decide to RGB or not but at the very least I am going to replace the 2 fans I have mounted on the side panel with non RGB ML fan types.


----------



## MrCoolTools

*Newbe*

This is my first Water Cooled build, first with custom sleeving, only one so far with 3d printed parts. This is my main computer and during the build I could not wait to
start it up and since then the finishing touches are slower now that its running. Not in a hurry to finish it completely because I will need to start next one and I really have not issues.


----------



## Nighthog

Sc00ter said:


> Also, since you have an 011 XL and will likely be pushing 9+ fans, I'll share another added benefit I found (the hard way) with the ML120's over the LL120's...
> 
> The ML120's have a max power draw of *0.225 Amps*. The LL120's have a max power draw of *0.3 Amps*. This is important because most fan headers are rated for a maximum of *1 Amp*. And though fans are rated for a max operating power draw, they can spike slightly above it during initial boot-up. I discovered this when I tried to plug 3xLL120's into a single fan header on my Corsair Commander Pro (via a 3-fan PWM splitter)... _Someone's reading this and already cringing, I'm sure._
> 
> Anyway, this rookie mistake resulted in a fried fan header on my brand new Commander Pro. Burning smell and all.
> 
> However, when combined 3xML120's have a max operating power draw of just 0.675 Amps. So even if they do spike above that slightly at boot, they still remain safely below the 1 Amp threshold. In the end, this means you can safely run three sets of 3xML120's on just three fan headers on a commander pro, motherboard, other fan hub, without risk of doing any damage. In terms of the Commander Pro (which I've now to purchased twice), configuring your fans this way leaves 3 open fan headers to be used for the rear exhaust fan and your PWM water pump connector, while still leaving 1 open for a second pump or whatever else you want to use it for later on.


I recomend the use of these things if you use PWM. You deliver the power directly from your PSU-molex and then only attach your PWM control signal cable to the port from where you want to control it.
Phobya 4Pin PWM to 8x 4Pin Fan Splitter PCB
They come in 4x & 6x splitters also.

Handy little things if you lack the headers needed for your fans. You can basically have as many fans as you fancy from a single PWM header source.
I tried this thing out and have all my 7x SW3 High speeds controlled by one PWM signal from my motherboard. You can daisy-chain them as well as far as I know if one isn't enough. No need to risk burning fan-headers on your controllers. 
I also found out this thing delivers proper 12v to the fans as motherboard fan-headers can be under delivering. (fans spin proper maximum speed rather than falling short @ 100%)


----------



## PCSarge

*ill just toss this up*

been a while once again, and ive nearly perfected my soon to be daily driver, and first theme build, Ocean Blu.

the last 2 pieces are in the works, i should see them monday, in the meantime this is how she looks, im waiting on an LED diffuse plug for my res, and a replacement RGB segment for my EK block


----------



## Ironsmack

Decided to re-do my HTPC.

Was running a 3700x + B450 but i switch my X399 with it. Now its running an X399 + 1080 and its been a reliable Plex server now.

I figured out might as well fix it up a bit. The AQ6 is just temporary. Im going to be moving that close to the upper rad, so the AQ6 is visible through the side window.


----------



## Streetdragon

MrCoolTools said:


> This is my first Water Cooled build, first with custom sleeving, only one so far with 3d printed parts. This is my main computer and during the build I could not wait to
> start it up and since then the finishing touches are slower now that its running. Not in a hurry to finish it completely because I will need to start next one and I really have not issues.


Looks so sexy, but so overkill for "just" the CPU xD 

Nice Nice


----------



## Soulpatch

Streetdragon said:


> Looks so sexy, but so overkill for "just" the CPU xD
> 
> Nice Nice



The GPU is in the loop. Or at least it looks that way in the second pic. The little monitor looks pretty sweet. Looked around at them for myself and ended up building the one I've got in there. But having a nice compact model would be a nice option. My cat likes to rub on mine lol


----------



## Steven Stacy

My intel 9700K to Ryzen 3950x move. Replaced the cheap Chinese rads and fans with corsair fans, rads. That made a big difference in noise and cooling.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nighthog said:


> I recomend the use of these things if you use PWM. You deliver the power directly from your PSU-molex and then only attach your PWM control signal cable to the port from where you want to control it.
> Phobya 4Pin PWM to 8x 4Pin Fan Splitter PCB
> They come in 4x & 6x splitters also.
> 
> Handy little things if you lack the headers needed for your fans. You can basically have as many fans as you fancy from a single PWM header source.
> I tried this thing out and have all my 7x SW3 High speeds controlled by one PWM signal from my motherboard. You can daisy-chain them as well as far as I know if one isn't enough. No need to risk burning fan-headers on your controllers.
> I also found out this thing delivers proper 12v to the fans as motherboard fan-headers can be under delivering. (fans spin proper maximum speed rather than falling short @ 100%)


I just picked up 9 of the non RGB EKX3M's. They are rocking out in the XL atm and keep the air moving really well 6 @ Intake and 3 @ Exhaust. 

~Ceadder


----------



## Nighthog

Ceadderman said:


> I just picked up 9 of the non RGB EKX3M's. They are rocking out in the XL atm and keep the air moving really well 6 @ Intake and 3 @ Exhaust.
> 
> ~Ceadder


How do they compare to the SW3 & ML120? They are 27.5mm thick I read. Not standard 25mm. I presume you used the splitter I recommended?


----------



## Pedropc

Corsair Obsidian 1000D MOD


----------



## Avacado

Pedropc said:


> Corsair Obsidian 1000D MOD


IIRC, that particular Barrowch Temp sensor has Aluminum in it. Did you read that before you bought it? Otherwise a sexy looking build with milk :thumb:


----------



## Fluxmaven

Pretty happy with this little rig. Hooked it up to my TV and played some Rocket League in 4K. i7 6700 maxed out at 72c and the overclocked Titan hit 54c. Ambient temp is 24c. All while being inaudible from a few feet away where I was sitting.


----------



## Sc00ter

Fluxmaven said:


> Pretty happy with this little rig. Hooked it up to my TV and played some Rocket League in 4K. i7 6700 maxed out at 72c and the overclocked Titan hit 54c. Ambient temp is 24c. All while being inaudible from a few feet away where I was sitting.


Love it! I have a huge appreciation for small case WC setups like that. 




Over the weekend I swapped my clear 10/12 tubing for EK ZMT 10/16 tubing. I also swapped my EK CPU block out for a Corsair block. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Though, I wish Corsair had a GPU block for the FTW3 cards so I could install one and vertically mount it to complete the overall look. 

Before:









After:


----------



## oreonutz

Sc00ter said:


> Love it! I have a huge appreciation for small case WC setups like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over the weekend I swapped my clear 10/12 tubing for EK ZMT 10/16 tubing. I also swapped my EK CPU block out for a Corsair block. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Though, I wish Corsair had a GPU block for the FTW3 cards so I could install one and vertically mount it to complete the overall look.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Spoiler



That ZMT Tubing is So SWEET! Looks damn good in your build sir!

I just bought 45 Feet of it from PPC the Other Day, I am going to redo my tubing Runs in this Build with ZMT, and I am going to Clean up the Runs a bit. I had a reason for running these the way I did, but I decided my reasoning sucks, so I am going to clean it up a bit. Anyways, here is my before. After will come after this next weekend. Oh also, this is a Server Build. This is mainly a VDI Server, but it is also taking over my Surveillance, NAS, Plex, & TV Recording Workload from my HP ProLiant DL360p Gen8 Server. It has 8x4TB Reds (The Last CMR Ones, thankfully bought them in Decemeber) for a total of 28GB Of Raid 5 Storage, and a 10GBe Nic, which is what the Fan is Cooling, that Nic and Raid Battery both get hot, so this direct Airflow keep it cool. Other Specs Listed Below.











Spoiler















































Build Specs:


Spoiler



3900x
Crosshair VI Hero
4x8GB TeamGroup 3200Mhz CL14
Zotac GTX 1070 Mini
EVGA 1000G PSU
Samsung 970 Pro 1TB SSD (Boot/VM Drive)
Samsung 860 Evo 2TB SSD (VM Drive)
8x4TB WD Red In Raid 5
LSI 9260-8i Raid Card w/ BBU
10Gbe Aquantia Nic

Water Cooling Parts:
AlphaCool XPX EisBlock
EK DDC PWM Pump
Aquaero 6 XT
AquaComputer High Flow USB
2 Corsair 240mm XR5 Rads
6x Corsair ML120 Fan's W/ Phanteks Halo's
1x Corsair ML140 Fan W/Phanteks Halo's
EK Fittings
Colder (CPC) Quick Disconnects (They are who EK Sources for their QDCs, but these come direct from CPC, have a slightly different color shade, and have better springs, so when you push the button it Forcefully disconnects, instead of the EK Ones Where you have to Push the Button While Pulling apart the QDC's to Disconnect. If you can source direct from a CPC Supplier, I would.)


----------



## Fluxmaven

Sc00ter said:


> Love it! I have a huge appreciation for small case WC setups like that.
> 
> Over the weekend I swapped my clear 10/12 tubing for EK ZMT 10/16 tubing.


Thanks! The Nano S is still pretty big for ITX. I have a lot more appreciation for people that do custom loops in SFF cases like the Louqe Ghost, Ncase, Dan, etc. 

Your tubing swap looks great. The matte black and white is a good color combo. Also the slightly thicker tubes fill out the space a bit better.


----------



## oreonutz

Fluxmaven said:


> Pretty happy with this little rig. Hooked it up to my TV and played some Rocket League in 4K. i7 6700 maxed out at 72c and the overclocked Titan hit 54c. Ambient temp is 24c. All while being inaudible from a few feet away where I was sitting.


Your Build is Sick Man! Love IT!


----------



## Fluxmaven

oreonutz said:


> Your Build is Sick Man! Love IT!


 Thanks man. Just wanted a fun quarantine project. Although I like how it turned out and almost don't want to get rid of it. It's the only custom loop PC I have that can be carried in one hand lol.

Here's a quick build thread on it. https://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-logs-case-mods/1745420-build-log-silent-nano.html


----------



## Gilles3000

Fluxmaven said:


> Thanks! The Nano S is still pretty big for ITX.


Yep, the Nano S is pretty roomy indeed, part of why I got rid of mine. With an air cooled setup, even with the biggest cooler I could fit in it and a sizable 2.5 slot GPU. It still felt like there was lots of wasted space.

Yours looks way better in that regard. :thumb:


----------



## Steven Stacy

> Over the weekend I swapped my clear 10/12 tubing for EK ZMT 10/16 tubing. I also swapped my EK CPU block out for a Corsair block. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Though, I wish Corsair had a GPU block for the FTW3 cards so I could install one and vertically mount it to complete the overall look.


Those black tubes and fittings are nice! Do those fittings swivel every direction?

Nevermind. Those are 45 deg connectors. I actually like that. I was going to paint my fittings. I may just redo most of it with black soft tubing.


----------



## Sc00ter

Steven Stacy said:


> Those black tubes and fittings are nice! Do those fittings swivel every direction?
> 
> Nevermind. Those are 45 deg connectors. I actually like that. I was going to paint my fittings. I may just redo most of it with black soft tubing.


Thanks! Yeah, on the GPU block I have EK Torque 45 deg fittings. On the pump I have the older style EK 45 deg fittings. All of the fittings are just EK 10/16 Torque fittings. At some point I may get two more 45 deg Torque fittings and put them on the pump inlet/outlet to better match what's on the GPU block. 

I know others have plenty of negative things to say about EK products. But my experience with their products, specifically their fittings and swivel adapters, have been nothing but excellent.


----------



## Hawkjoss

Hi Everyone!
My first attempt to go water cooling


----------



## Sc00ter

Hawkjoss said:


> Hi Everyone!
> My first attempt to go water cooling


Looks great! I was gonna ask why you didn't include the GPU in the loop. But it looks like you've got two 90 degree adapters already installed in preparation for a GPU block to be added.


----------



## Avacado

Hawkjoss said:


> Hi Everyone!
> My first attempt to go water cooling


IMO, the cleanest soft tube runs I have seen to date on this forum. Very nice work.


----------



## Hawkjoss

Sc00ter said:


> Looks great! I was gonna ask why you didn't include the GPU in the loop. But it looks like you've got two 90 degree adapters already installed in preparation for a GPU block to be added.


Thanks Sc00ter!
current GPU is a temporary "plug" until 3xxx series from Nvidia. Didn't see a reason to throw another $150-$200 for gpu block, especially it's being an outdated card


----------



## Hawkjoss

Avacado said:


> IMO, the cleanest soft tube runs I have seen to date on this forum. Very nice work.


Thank you! All the credit goes to distro plate - it makes the runs predetermined and easy to navigate.


----------



## J7SC

Quick update pic of the TR build I posted before...32 GB > 64 GB...


----------



## Sc00ter

Hawkjoss said:


> Thank you! All the credit goes to distro plate - it makes the runs predetermined and easy to navigate.


I'm not gonna lie, your setup is filling me with regret. I debated between the distro plate and a 3rd 360mm 38mm rad. In fact, I even bought both from Microcenter and ended up keeping the 3rd rad for that extra bit of cooling. While temps are beyond great, I wish I would have kept the distro plate and installed a 50mm+ radiator in push/pull on the bottom, keeping the 38mm 360 rad on top. Temps would have been pretty close to what they are now and the distro plate would have made for MUCH cleaner/easier runs. Not to mention not having to deal with figuring out pump/res combo placement.

With your setup, you could unscrew the CPU block, swap your CPU or simply reapply thermal paste and reinstall the block within a matter of minutes. Never touching the actual loop. And with your GPU connected to the loop, you could pull both blocks aside and swap out the motherboard, easily. It's a fantastic setup if you're one to upgrade components yearly, like I tend to do.


----------



## oreonutz

J7SC said:


> Quick update pic of the TR build I posted before...32 GB > 64 GB...


I Love the Update! Looks So Bad Ass! Jealous of the 64GB, and The Beast of a CPU!

I posted my latest creation a page or 2 back, but my runs went all over the place so I guess everyone was like NNOOOPPEE! LOL!

Anyways, Love your Build, that tubing Looks nice! Going to update my Rig with the ZMT Tubing I just bought and then clean up my Runs then, hoping I can make it look as clean as what you have here good sir!

Edit: Also. Is that a ThermalTake P3 Case, and if so, did you custom build a plate to go over your Power Supply? I am finally about to set up that P3 I bought a few months back when asking you about a Good Stand up Test Bench Case, and I have a few extra components I have to fit on the Rig, would be nice to come up with something like you have in this picture (so I can Mount my 5.25" Hot Swap Drive Bay, and My Aquaero 6 XT too, and still have it look clean.)


----------



## J7SC

oreonutz said:


> I Love the Update! Looks So Bad Ass! Jealous of the 64GB, and The Beast of a CPU!
> 
> I posted my latest creation a page or 2 back, but my runs went all over the place so I guess everyone was like NNOOOPPEE! LOL!
> 
> Anyways, Love your Build, that tubing Looks nice! Going to update my Rig with the ZMT Tubing I just bought and then clean up my Runs then, hoping I can make it look as clean as what you have here good sir!
> 
> Edit: Also. Is that a ThermalTake P3 Case, and if so, did you custom build a plate to go over your Power Supply? I am finally about to set up that P3 I bought a few months back when asking you about a Good Stand up Test Bench Case, and I have a few extra components I have to fit on the Rig, would be nice to come up with something like you have in this picture (so I can Mount my 5.25" Hot Swap Drive Bay, and My Aquaero 6 XT too, and still have it look clean.)


 
Tx  Those (GPU) tubes are actually copper pipes (w/ copper elbows at the end), dressed in white foil 

Case is a Dremel-modded TT Core P5

Also, I saw your build and like it a lot - just wasn't sure why you added that 110v Corsair mouse box, per green circle :arrowhead


----------



## oreonutz

J7SC said:


> Tx  Those (GPU) tubes are actually copper pipes (w/ copper elbows at the end), dressed in white foil
> 
> Case is a Dremel-modded TT Core P5
> 
> Also, I saw your build and like it a lot - just wasn't sure why you added that 110v Corsair mouse box, per green circle :arrowhead


Damn Sir, I new the GPU Runs were Hard Tubing, had no idea they were copper, Great work! Your CPU Soft Tubing (I assume) run look great too! If I am not mistaken the P5 Still doesn't come with a "Shroud" above the GPU, so I am wondering what it is you used to make yourself one? I know its not a shroud in the true sense of the word, but whatever it is you would call it, I would love to do something similar on my P3. 

HAHAHA! My Office/Lab is a mess right now. Was in the Process of moving into a building when all this Lockdown stuff started going down, contractors ended up getting out of the job, so our building still isn't finished, so after having most of my home office torn up and ready to be moved, I have now been unpacking and using these Temporary 4ft and 6ft Fold Out tables, and setting up all my Equipment on those. My Entire Lab is a mess, stacked to the ceiling with boxes, and this is my last easily accessible work area in this room, which is where I was working on this build and took a picture of it. The Corsair Mouse was just some product placement to get that ad revenue! LOL! No, That is just the Empty box left over from a clients Build had to program his profiles in the mouse for him because iCue Causes so many problems that we refuse to install it on so many systems, but this particular client is addicted to that particular mouse layout (He had the wired version previously), so I programmed it all in for him on one of my Test Systems in a VM, and as you can see, I am yet to throw away the Box. Will get to it one of these days! In the rest of the pictures you can see all kinds of misc goods lying around, can definitely tell I have a problem, lol!


----------



## J7SC

oreonutz said:


> Damn Sir, I new the GPU Runs were Hard Tubing, had no idea they were copper, Great work! Your CPU Soft Tubing (I assume) run look great too! If I am not mistaken the P5 Still doesn't come with a "Shroud" above the GPU, so I am wondering what it is you used to make yourself one? I know its not a shroud in the true sense of the word, but whatever it is you would call it, I would love to do something similar on my P3.
> 
> HAHAHA! My Office/Lab is a mess right now. Was in the Process of moving into a building when all this Lockdown stuff started going down, contractors ended up getting out of the job, so our building still isn't finished, so after having most of my home office torn up and ready to be moved, I have now been unpacking and using these Temporary 4ft and 6ft Fold Out tables, and setting up all my Equipment on those. My Entire Lab is a mess, stacked to the ceiling with boxes, and this is my last easily accessible work area in this room, which is where I was working on this build and took a picture of it. The Corsair Mouse was just some product placement to get that ad revenue! LOL! No, That is just the Empty box left over from a clients Build had to program his profiles in the mouse for him because iCue Causes so many problems that we refuse to install it on so many systems, but this particular client is addicted to that particular mouse layout (He had the wired version previously), so I programmed it all in for him on one of my Test Systems in a VM, and as you can see, I am yet to throw away the Box. Will get to it one of these days! In the rest of the pictures you can see all kinds of misc goods lying around, can definitely tell I have a problem, lol!


 
...you should see my soho office these days - on second thought, nobody should be exposed to that, not even myself :sicksmile

...you mean the 'shroud' in the green circle per attachment below ? Parts cut from a rectangular plastic box some bulk computer screws came in...blacked 'ribbed' item on the right is 'electrical protection hose / tube' used in construction (> ideal for your 110v mouse, btw...)...sticky Aorus logos came w/ the GPUs


----------



## oreonutz

J7SC said:


> ...you should see my soho office these days - on second thought, nobody should be exposed to that, not even myself :sicksmile
> 
> ...you mean the 'shroud' in the green circle per attachment below ? Parts cut from a rectangular plastic box some bulk computer screws came in...blacked 'ribbed' item on the right is 'electrical protection hose / tube' used in construction (> ideal for your 110v mouse, btw...)...sticky Aorus logos came w/ the GPUs


LOL! No but I like what you did there too.

I am talking about the shelf just below the GPUS but above the PSU.










Lol! Are you saying my Corsair Box is a killer of all mice? LOL!


----------



## J7SC

oreonutz said:


> LOL! No but I like what you did there too.
> 
> *I am talking about the shelf just below the GPUS but above the PSU.*
> Lol! Are you saying my Corsair Box is a killer of all mice? LOL!


 
...well, good Sir, in your earlier post you wrote 'above *GPU'*, not above *PSU* 

Per 1st attachment, the 'normal' TT Core P5 comes with a two-part assembly for vertical GPU mount. I took that apart and mounted it differently (part horizontal, part vertical mount) since I not only wanted a shroud above the PSU but also additional support for the two heavy water-blocked 2080 Tis. To that end, you also see a little 'L' bracket I added...In addition, I fabricated another longer piece and mounted it securely to the shroud that extends to the right and is anchored there for additional GPU support.

Per 2nd attachment, temps are great...the graph shows temps after a '3DM DLSS feature test' which is essentially two Port Royal benchmarks in a row (one with, one without DLSS), so quite a long stress test....dual GPUs pulled a combined 760W peak in this...


----------



## oreonutz

J7SC said:


> ...well, good Sir, in your earlier post you wrote 'above *GPU'*, not above *PSU*
> 
> Per 1st attachment, the 'normal' TT Core P5 comes with a two-part assembly for vertical GPU mount. I took that apart and mounted it differently (part horizontal, part vertical mount) since I not only wanted a shroud above the PSU but also additional support for the two heavy water-blocked 2080 Tis. To that end, you also see a little 'L' bracket I added...In addition, I fabricated another longer piece and mounted it securely to the shroud that extends to the right and is anchored there for additional GPU support.
> 
> Per 2nd attachment, temps are great...the graph shows temps after a '3DM DLSS feature test' which is essentially two Port Royal benchmarks in a row (one with, one without DLSS), so quite a long stress test....dual GPUs pulled a combined 760W peak in this...


Nice! Now that you point out the L Bracket I see it, and I want one! Good Job Man!

My bad, when typing fast I often mess up, but yeah meant above PSU, not GPU, lol. You did a good job, it all looks part of the Case!


----------



## Hawkjoss

Sc00ter said:


> I'm not gonna lie, your setup is filling me with regret. I debated between the distro plate and a 3rd 360mm 38mm rad. In fact, I even bought both from Microcenter and ended up keeping the 3rd rad for that extra bit of cooling. While temps are beyond great, I wish I would have kept the distro plate and installed a 50mm+ radiator in push/pull on the bottom, keeping the 38mm 360 rad on top. Temps would have been pretty close to what they are now and the distro plate would have made for MUCH cleaner/easier runs. Not to mention not having to deal with figuring out pump/res combo placement.
> 
> With your setup, you could unscrew the CPU block, swap your CPU or simply reapply thermal paste and reinstall the block within a matter of minutes. Never touching the actual loop. And with your GPU connected to the loop, you could pull both blocks aside and swap out the motherboard, easily. It's a fantastic setup if you're one to upgrade components yearly, like I tend to do.


Yes, soft tubes and distro make life much easier. I already removed the CPU block like 10+ times and each time I appreciated the convenience. I can't imagine draining the loop and reassemble the runs each time, especially it is my first water-cooled build and any manipulation with it is a bit nerve-wracking. 

I also replaced the pump without draining a drop of liquid from the loop. Just put the case on its side so the pump is the highest point of the loop; unscrew 4 bolts, swapped the impeller - done - no hassle required 

Yesterday I delidded my chip and went direct die - all the process took me 40 min tops. That way I am trying to "compensate" missing 3rd rad in the system. will do some testing over the weekend but so far the results are very pleasing.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

My desktop computer


----------



## oreonutz

0451 said:


> My desktop computer


This is the Definition of a Desktop! I love it!


----------



## J7SC

0451 said:


> My desktop computer


 
:thumb: like it ! 
I used to have a very similar setup with two open mobos on my left side of the desk, but I'm a bit careless with 'Starbucks Venti' coffee cups and such...so back to safety distancing (long before social distancing was a thing)


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Haha thanks. It's just temporary while I clean my loop and work on some case mods. This has been my computer desk since I was 8. When I was a kid I built a computer inside the bottom drawer with a Pentium 4 2.8 ghz and GeForce FX5600 before I knew anything about thermals and before case modding was a thing.


----------



## oreonutz

0451 said:


> Haha thanks. It's just temporary while I clean my loop and work on some case mods. This has been my computer desk since I was 8. When I was a kid I built a computer inside the bottom drawer with a Pentium 4 2.8 ghz and GeForce FX5600 before I knew anything about thermals and before case modding was a thing.


LOL! I love it!

Thats sounds a lot like my child hood. My dad was an AMD Employee back in the bay area when I was 5. He used to bring home all kinds of cool computer stuff and show it to me. We built my first PC Together when I was 6 Years Old (early 1990's), one of my earliest memories. Crazy how times have changed since then.


----------



## Sc00ter

0451 said:


> My desktop computer


This guy's got it figured out! 

In all honesty, if static electricity wasn't a serious concern, I'd have a similar setup with the radiator and pump sitting on shelves above the MB on my desk. Talk about making things easy to work on and NEVER having to worry about particular case flow issues.


----------



## oreonutz

Sc00ter said:


> This guy's got it figured out!
> 
> In all honesty, if static electricity wasn't a serious concern, I'd have a similar setup with the radiator and pump sitting on shelves above the MB on my desk. Talk about making things easy to work on and NEVER having to worry about particular case flow issues.


LOL! I have all my Components in my case, but I run all my cooling up on a shelf, with Pumps and Rads, and it does make it easy to fill, drain, and clean dust. Right now cables are everywhere, but next weekend I plan on tiding it all up. It also has the advantage of the Rads getting Fresh air, gets you another degree c or so, lol.


----------



## KingT

Here is my shaggy WC rig:


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I never had a chance to post pictures of my recent rig... So here it is. Singularity Spectre case, MSI Z390 Godlike, Nvidia 2080ti Founders, Dominator Plat RGB 3600 16G, Corsair RM 1000 PSU, Thermaltake Riing fans, 3x 1TB Samsung SSD's.


----------



## Regel

Finished my build in the Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL.
* PC Components: 3950x, 2080 Ti, 64GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3600 CL17, Asus Crosshair VIII Formula
* 3x 360mm rads: Alphacool Monsta (80mm) in the bottom, UT-60 (60mm) in the side and XT-45 (45mm cross-flow) in the top. 
* Tygon R3400 soft tubing (16/10mm) with Alphacool Deepblack fittings
* Corsair fans: ML120 push in bottom, QL120 pull in bottom, ML120 LED White push in side, LL120 push in top

This was really maximizing the amount of radiator in the case. Overkill? Possibly. Fun? Yes.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Regel said:


> Finished my build in the Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL.
> * PC Components: 3950x, 2080 Ti, 64GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3600 CL17, Asus Crosshair VIII Formula
> * 3x 360mm rads: Alphacool Monsta (80mm) in the bottom, UT-60 (60mm) in the side and XT-45 (45mm cross-flow) in the top.
> * Tygon R3400 soft tubing (16/10mm) with Alphacool Deepblack fittings
> * Corsair fans: ML120 push in bottom, QL120 pull in bottom, ML120 LED White push in side, LL120 push in top
> 
> This was really maximizing the amount of radiator in the case. Overkill? Possibly. Fun? Yes.


I think I updooted this on reddit the other day... Looks good. Love thicc rads. No such thing as overkill


----------



## Regel

Fluxmaven said:


> I think I updooted this on reddit the other day... Looks good. Love thicc rads. No such thing as overkill


That might very well be possible!

The only thing I regret a bit is the Bitspower flowmeter... It looks really cool, but the readout doesn't really work. When researching this I read that this seems to be generally accepted and there are a lot of bad reviews saying the sensor gets stuck after a while... Hope it won't for me.


----------



## Bart

I have an addiction to Barrow flow meters, much prefer digital. Not that I care about the accuracy of the numbers, but they give you a good baseline for a loop. If you're loop gets gunked up over time, you'll see the numbers drop. 

Back on topic, loving the O11D XL! I own two in white, both with triple slim rads (mad props to anyone crazy enough to put a Monsta in this thing, respect)!

Threadripper workstation, dual 1080TIs:









Recently rebuilt my 3rd rig into an XL, since it only had a single 420 rad in it's previous incarnation. All-AMD X470 rig, Ryzen 3700X + Radeon VII, cobbled together with the last of my black soft tube:


----------



## Soulpatch

Regel said:


> Finished my build in the Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL.
> * PC Components: 3950x, 2080 Ti, 64GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3600 CL17, Asus Crosshair VIII Formula
> * 3x 360mm rads: Alphacool Monsta (80mm) in the bottom, UT-60 (60mm) in the side and XT-45 (45mm cross-flow) in the top.
> * Tygon R3400 soft tubing (16/10mm) with Alphacool Deepblack fittings
> * Corsair fans: ML120 push in bottom, QL120 pull in bottom, ML120 LED White push in side, LL120 push in top
> 
> This was really maximizing the amount of radiator in the case. Overkill? Possibly. Fun? Yes.



Question about your push/pull setup. I've been trying to find some data on it and because of the search engine it's a pia. Does it really make that much of a difference across such a small system? I've got a single 360 rad (1" deep) in mine and was thinking about either adding a 240 or maybe doing a push/pull system. I'm running an I9-9900k and will eventually be running a 3080 card when they come out. So of course it'll definitely be running hot. As it stands I average no more than 36C coolant temps even after running some pretty intensive games for hours. The 360 does a pretty good job with the cpu/1070gpu. Oh, I'm also overclocked on both. 5hz cpu/2hz gpu. So it seems to be doing a pretty good job, but I'd like to be a bit better off once the new card gets dropped in.


----------



## Regel

Bart said:


> I have an addiction to Barrow flow meters, much prefer digital. Not that I care about the accuracy of the numbers, but they give you a good baseline for a loop. If you're loop gets gunked up over time, you'll see the numbers drop.
> 
> Back on topic, loving the O11D XL! I own two in white, both with triple slim rads (mad props to anyone crazy enough to put a Monsta in this thing, respect)!
> 
> Threadripper workstation, dual 1080TIs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently rebuilt my 3rd rig into an XL, since it only had a single 420 rad in it's previous incarnation. All-AMD X470 rig, Ryzen 3700X + Radeon VII, cobbled together with the last of my black soft tube:


Nice! I see you're also using a X-Flow rad on top. In hindsight I should have probably flipped mine over, but somehow I had in mind that my run wouldn't work this way...



Soulpatch said:


> Question about your push/pull setup. I've been trying to find some data on it and because of the search engine it's a pia. Does it really make that much of a difference across such a small system? I've got a single 360 rad (1" deep) in mine and was thinking about either adding a 240 or maybe doing a push/pull system. I'm running an I9-9900k and will eventually be running a 3080 card when they come out. So of course it'll definitely be running hot. As it stands I average no more than 36C coolant temps even after running some pretty intensive games for hours. The 360 does a pretty good job with the cpu/1070gpu. Oh, I'm also overclocked on both. 5hz cpu/2hz gpu. So it seems to be doing a pretty good job, but I'd like to be a bit better off once the new card gets dropped in.


I didn't test without the push/pull. But if you have the space, why not?

Made a short video of my finished system:


----------



## dwolvin

*New case*

For the first time in my life I have a computer I consider good looking. I have always built for function and not cared about looks, but this Core P3 was a fun case to move my rig to (from a Define XL). I need to make a blank plate, and may break down and put a T connector between the rads eventually to make topping up easier...


----------



## Mxj1

My take at the 011XL.

It still needs a little polish here and there, but it's as done as it's ever going to be.


----------



## Soulpatch

dwolvin said:


> For the first time in my life I have a computer I consider good looking. I have always built for function and not cared about looks, but this Core P3 was a fun case to move my rig to (from a Define XL). I need to make a blank plate, and may break down and put a T connector between the rads eventually to make topping up easier...



Same way here. Almost always function over form. Sometimes something small here and there to give it a personal touch. First time here building for form as well. It's pretty nice to be able to do that given the right case/time and money. I always put the money into the components rather than save a little for looks. 

Just pulled the radiator out of mine and actually have a push/pull setup on top of the case. Wow, what a difference when it comes to how crowded the system looks. Really opens it up and even gave me a bit more coolant as well.


----------



## sli_shroom

finally updated the pc...

was...










is... (should do something about the ssd logo)

ryzen 3900x
asus prime pro x570
32gb patriot viper
2070 supers (x2)
970 evo 1tb drives (x2)
960 evo 250gb
ssds (x3)












Spoiler


----------



## Soulpatch

sli_shroom said:


> finally updated the pc...
> 
> was...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is... (should do something about the ssd logo)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler



Looks great, but why soft lines? Would look so much better with solid runs. With all that open space you could do some pretty cool bends, etc. and give it some more creativity. All in all, really good build.


----------



## Steven Stacy

I really like this concept. You have me thinking of doing a build with the a large custom distribution block as a backplate on the wall with hardline connectors at each components. Couple 360 rads on each side in a frame wrapped with speaker fabric for filtering.


----------



## J7SC

Steven Stacy said:


> I really like this concept. You have me thinking of doing a build with the a large custom distribution block as a backplate on the wall with hardline connectors at each components. Couple 360 rads on each side in a frame wrapped with speaker fabric for filtering.


 
...I have been thinking about s.th. along those lines. I'm currently using a TT Core P5 'regular' (sig) and really like it, but I wonder when TT will release the "Distrocase" for sale (thinking about that one for a future build). Per vid, it might also serve as a good starting point for your plan


----------



## Steven Stacy

That would be perfect. They need to design a 360mm slim psu with modular connections along the one long and short side. Then just have short cables connecting to the nearest plug. That can be mounted at the bottom or its going to need a really good wire channeling system.


----------



## sli_shroom

Soulpatch said:


> Looks great, but why soft lines? Would look so much better with solid runs. With all that open space you could do some pretty cool bends, etc. and give it some more creativity. All in all, really good build.


thx...it really just comes down to having all of the fittings. some day i will go with hard lines


----------



## Roboionator

new build


----------



## Soulpatch

sli_shroom said:


> thx...it really just comes down to having all of the fittings. some day i will go with hard lines



The last liquid cooled I built was over 20 years ago. We ran 1/2" stainless steel tubing and stainless parker compression fittings. Extremely simple system and the options were limited on bends, etc. because it was all done on a mandrel. Planning out the new system was a serious pia because of so many fittings/types. Took far longer and had to write the companies a few times to get measurements, etc. Which company? Do any of them have bad fittings? Cost is high as well. A dozen fittings and you could easily be a few hundred $$$. Ya, I feel your pain on all of it lol Back in the day modding was cheap, but you had to have the skills/tools to do it. Today everything is done for you, plenty of choices of pre-made parts. But the cost is insane.


----------



## Mxj1

Soulpatch said:


> Back in the day modding was cheap, but you had to have the skills/tools to do it. Today everything is done for you, plenty of choices of pre-made parts. But the cost is insane.


I'm with you on this one. I can remember ~20 years ago getting the best stuff available and assembling a complete CPU only loop for <$150. In fact I was looking up old aquarium pumps that I used for a little project I'm doing, and found the Via Aqua 1300 pump for $18.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Mxj1 said:


> My take at the 011XL.
> 
> It still needs a little polish here and there, but it's as done as it's ever going to be.


Looks pretty good, but I'm not sure 3 D5's are enough for that setup... Might need another to be safe.


----------



## sdmf74

Anybody know if the new NB ELOOP X fans have the same defect as the originals?
Where they make a loud noise when mounted onto a radiator.

I'm asking because I cant find really good fans to replace my 8 new EK 120er's that are already all going defective after only a month or two.

I cant find any info on release date for the noctua nf-a12x25 pwm in BLACK so I have to assume that is never going to happen, since it's been like 2+ years. I know they said they are having issues making black fans but whatever smh.


----------



## Nineball_Seraph

New build mostly done. Still have a couple of things to do to to clean it up a bit.


----------



## J7SC

Steven Stacy said:


> That would be perfect. They need to design a 360mm slim psu with modular connections along the one long and short side. Then just have short cables connecting to the nearest plug. That can be mounted at the bottom or its going to need a really good wire channeling system.


 
...this thing would definitely make a good starting point / base for a highly customized build - for example with a sub-frame and covered bottom channels to give it additional strength and also hold dual (or more) 420mm rads on either side, as well as cabling.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

As much as I like the simplicity of this build, I may have to part with this Singularity case. It's a first gen case, that I bought on ebay (brand new) last year, but I'm having leaking problems from the water manifold. For whatever reason, the manifold screws that keep the water distribution channels together are not holding the pressure, so each day that I turn it on, there are small air pockets in my flow meter, and the fill port up top. I top it off with distilled water once a week, so I know there aren't trapped air bubbles left over from the radiators. There were a few loose manifold screws that I've gently tightened, but they seem to naturally untighten themselves throughout the week. You can even see "wet spots" between the sandwiched layers of acrylic. I'll try reaching out to Singularity and see if there's anything they can do, but it's doubtful.


----------



## Mxj1

Fluxmaven said:


> Looks pretty good, but I'm not sure 3 D5's are enough for that setup... Might need another to be safe.


Thanks. I keep another loose on my desk... its kind of a modular approach. Sometimes if I'm worried about flow, I just move it a little closer to the pc. :cheers:

...but seriously, I've got a very restrictive setup. Using three d5s in series at 100% only nets me ~300 lph. I've backed them all down to about 70% and can maintain 222 lph or 1gpm. You are correct, its not absolutely necessary but the brass alphacool dual d5 pump top was on sale. :bike:


----------



## Mxj1

sdmf74 said:


> Anybody know if the new NB ELOOP X fans have the same defect as the originals?
> Where they make a loud noise when mounted onto a radiator.
> 
> I'm asking because I cant find really good fans to replace my 8 new EK 120er's that are already all going defective after only a month or two.
> 
> I cant find any info on release date for the noctua nf-a12x25 pwm in BLACK so I have to assume that is never going to happen, since it's been like 2+ years. I know they said they are having issues making black fans but whatever smh.


I'm not sure about the E loop fans.

I've got the NF-F12 industrial ppc pwm on my top and bottom radiators set to ~40% or 800 rpm. They're near silent at this speed and work great.


----------



## Steven Stacy

I finally figured out how to mount my silicon RGB diffused strips. I wanted to be able to mount it similar to an oem type mount and not jacked up. I found aluminum channels that was perfect.
I'm not sure if I can get this build much cleaner.


----------



## J7SC

Steven Stacy said:


> I finally figured out how to mount my silicon RGB diffused strips. I wanted to be able to mount it similar to an oem type mount and not jacked up. I found aluminum channels that was perfect.
> I'm not sure if I can get this build much cleaner.


 
:thumb: ...beautiful


----------



## sdmf74

Mxj1 said:


> I'm not sure about the E loop fans.
> 
> I've got the NF-F12 industrial ppc pwm on my top and bottom radiators set to ~40% or 800 rpm. They're near silent at this speed and work great.


Does Noctua sell different colored corners for the Industrial fans?


----------



## InfoSeeker

sdmf74 said:


> Does Noctua sell different colored corners for the Industrial fans?



Yes


----------



## Mxj1

InfoSeeker said:


> Yes





sdmf74 said:


> Does Noctua sell different colored corners for the Industrial fans?


Infoseeker is correct. 

I think that the 120 mm and 140 mm (I accidentally ordered 80 mm corners and they were not the same) corners are interchangeable across the noctua models. The same corners fit the Industrial, Chromax, and Redux fans that I have.

They look good with black.


----------



## sdmf74

good to know! Thanks for that. I see you have the 2000rpm's I assume the 3000rpm ones are pretty loud. Im actually still using four GT 3000rpm pwm's in P/P on my intake radiator. They've been rock solid!
Sure wish those black NFA12X25's would get released though


----------



## Mxj1

Yeah, I've got one of the industrial 140s. at full speed it moves a ton of air, but is unbearable for me. When I used it, I slowed it down substantially and was satisfied with noise/performance.


----------



## sdmf74

Mxj1 said:


> Infoseeker is correct.
> 
> I think that the 120 mm and 140 mm (I accidentally ordered 80 mm corners and they were not the same) corners are interchangeable across the noctua models. The same corners fit the Industrial, Chromax, and Redux fans that I have.
> 
> They look good with black.


Are the Industrial fans your favorite of the three Noctuas?


----------



## Mxj1

sdmf74 said:


> Are the Industrial fans your favorite of the three Noctuas?


yep. I also like that the industrial create the most pressure for my radiators. If I was buying them all over again, I'd just go straight to the 2,000rpm industrial fans.

I've also got a few of the slim 15mm chromax fans that I'm quite happy with.

I wanted black fans. Gotta wonder... there's no way zakk wylde would own brown fans.


----------



## DirtyBear

Noctua industrial fans also is my first choice for watercooling because of the high static pressure


----------



## looniam

well guess fed-ex dropped off today:















Spoiler
































i know stuff is ugly.

i was gonna get the 2K fan until i saw the 3K for the same price on amazon. the bummer is i get 2475rpm/100% off the aquaero. its  a known issue i forgot

still at ~960 they seem to push air i can feel at the rad whereas the EK vadars needed ~1250. ya know - going by *feels* 

i'll agree the 3K are over kill but being the same price . . . i guess . .


----------



## J7SC

...bought x12 3k rpm GentleTyphoons back in '13 - '14 and have been transferring (most of) them to every new build since then...seem to be the perfect combo w/ XSPC RX360 ('thick') rads which are my fav rads


----------



## taowulf

looniam said:


> well guess fed-ex dropped off today:


New slippers?


----------



## pewpewlazer

Rebuilt my loop once again...

Swapped from 420 GTS + 420 GTS X-Flow to 420 GTX + 420 GTS
Swapped single D5 PWM + Swiftech top for Dual D5s with the EK Revo serial top
Rest of it: Fractal Define 7 XL, Arctic P14 PWM fans, Heatkiller IV Pro CPU block, EVGA Hydrocopper block.

I was hoping I could fit both rads push/pull using some 90* rotary fittings, but I'm not very bright since they're 1mm longer than the fans I can't fit. So that didn't work out. Ended up just leaving off 1 fan from the top rad.

My reservoir (temp sensor location) is now between the two rads instead of after both of them, so impossible to do a real apples to apples comparison to my old loop (with the 2x 420 GTS rads). But it looks like the GTX helped shave off 1-2*C at the same ~1000 RPM fan speeds. 2080 Ti sits at 40-41*C load now. ~22*C ambient temperature. Not SUPER thrilled with it, but I'm this is the about the best I'll be able to get without going to an external rad setup.


----------



## sdmf74

Mxj1 said:


> yep. I also like that the industrial create the most pressure for my radiators. If I was buying them all over again, I'd just go straight to the 2,000rpm industrial fans.
> 
> I've also got a few of the slim 15mm chromax fans that I'm quite happy with.
> 
> I wanted black fans. Gotta wonder... there's no way zakk wylde would own brown fans.


Indeed gotta keep those amps cool! :thumb:



looniam said:


> well guess fed-ex dropped off today:
> View attachment 351780
> View attachment 351782
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 351784
> View attachment 351786
> 
> View attachment 351788
> View attachment 351790
> 
> 
> 
> i know stuff is ugly.
> 
> i was gonna get the 2K fan until i saw the 3K for the same price on amazon. the bummer is i get 2475rpm/100% off the aquaero. its  a known issue i forgot
> 
> still at ~960 they seem to push air i can feel at the rad whereas the EK vadars needed ~1250. ya know - going by *feels*
> 
> i'll agree the 3K are over kill but being the same price . . . i guess . .


Whats the sound like at 2400rpm? I would love to compare the actual sound to my 3000rpm GT AP29pwm's




J7SC said:


> ...bought x12 3k rpm GentleTyphoons back in '13 - '14 and have been transferring (most of) them to every new build since then...seem to be the perfect combo w/ XSPC RX360 ('thick') rads which are my fav rads


Yep I love my 3000rpm GT's on my HL rads! These fans are indestructable, unlike EK fans that cant even last a month or two. You would think they would have learned from the last Vardars they made which were defective as well.
I thought they would learn from their mistakes but I guess cutting corners & costs is more important than preserving their reputation!

If I would have known the Industrial fans were that good I would have bought them from the start instead of going through this hassle of tearing my system down every time a fan fails


----------



## Mxj1

I did the same thing... Which is how I ended up having so many of the different noctuas.


----------



## looniam

sdmf74 said:


> Whats the sound like at 2400rpm? I would love to compare the actual sound to my 3000rpm GT AP29pwm's


i'd record a vid for ya but i have a crappy phone/cam/mic. to use a previous experince i'd say about the sound of my old GTX570. my 708ti classy was noticeable but these are little louder. don't know if that helps. compared to the vaders i had, they are louder but the noise drowns out better.

fwiw i really didn't have any issues from the vaders except one started to rattle at times after 2.5 years. these things with the rig idling ~820rpm shaved a half degree (2.0-2.5 to 1.5-2.0). loads vary too much right now to figure that out and i'm still playing around w/pwm curve.

btw, connected the fan right to the aquaero and got ~2800; so its my mile long extensions since treat the rad as external. that little EK CE280 does ok for my cpu/gpu keeping water temp ~10c delta. but now getting hot and no AC, the deltas will hit ~14c and water temp ~45c. i'm sure these will help that until i pull my head out and get a bigger radiator. 

which will be after i roof my house. i should say hire someone to roof my house; too old to be humping bundle up a ladder.


----------



## J7SC

This may sound odd, but my 3k rpm GentleTyphoons sound not only ""better"" than some Corsair ML120s (2.4k rpm max) I also have, at full tilt, the MLs also seem louder than the GTs at 3k rpm, unlike at lower rpm.


----------



## Bart

J7SC said:


> This may sound odd, but my 3k rpm GentleTyphoons sound not only ""better"" than some Corsair ML120s (2.4k rpm max) I also have, at full tilt, the MLs also seem louder than the GTs at 3k rpm, unlike at lower rpm.


That's not odd, those fans are just brilliant. They have the best noise profile of any fan I've ever heard, even at full blast, and that's coming from an old man with ear issues, LOL! I'm grateful I'm Canadian sometimes, since I can order Darkside typhoons from Daz. Same great fan / motor, with black blades, in a newer PWM variant. And they're less than $20CDN each. Talk about a steal.


----------



## J7SC

Bart said:


> That's not odd, those fans are just brilliant. They have the best noise profile of any fan I've ever heard, even at full blast, and that's coming from an old man with ear issues, LOL! I'm grateful I'm Canadian sometimes, since I can order Darkside typhoons from Daz. Same great fan / motor, with black blades, in a newer PWM variant. And they're less than $20CDN each. Talk about a steal.


...fellow Canadian here, and I got my 3K GTs way back at NCIX (...GT fans lasting much longer than NCIX did...). They're Molex but have a single yellow wire *pwm* connector. <> Here is a tip on how to fully mod them for pwm control.

...as to sound and noise, it's all relative. I got a pile of old server-chassis 120mm 'Sunon' fans which are much thicker and much louder to the point that I don't use them anymore, as much as they deliver the cfm...


----------



## PCSarge

J7SC said:


> ...fellow Canadian here, and I got my 3K GTs way back at NCIX (...GT fans lasting much longer than NCIX did...). They're Molex but have a single yellow wire *pwm* connector. <> Here is a tip on how to fully mod them for pwm control.
> 
> ...as to sound and noise, it's all relative. I got a pile of old server-chassis 120mm 'Sunon' fans which are much thicker and much louder to the point that I don't use them anymore, as much as they deliver the cfm...


i somewhere, have i think 4 or 5k RPM Nidec BETA V server fans, want to talk about a fan that shrieks at full speed. those are definently it.



J7SC said:


> This may sound odd, but my 3k rpm GentleTyphoons sound not only ""better"" than some Corsair ML120s (2.4k rpm max) I also have, at full tilt, the MLs also seem louder than the GTs at 3k rpm, unlike at lower rpm.


if you really like corsairs LL and ML series fans, your best bet is EK's SE series rads, they move alot of air with less noise due to a lower fin density. they may not be the best fans in the world, but they do the job well


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Glad to hear that Singularity will replace the faulty manifold I'm currently using for my Spectre case. At the same time, it means that I'll have to completely tear down the entire rig, all the way down to the last case screw. But, it's a small price to pay for the case to work properly. It's also an opportunity to tweak some other things within the case that I didn't get a chance to after I assembled it.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I miss my old rig and the craftsmanship it took to build it, but it was time to move on to a smaller case for the amount of hardware I had in it.


----------



## Avacado

ProfeZZor X said:


> I miss my old rig and the craftsmanship it took to build it, but it was time to move on to a smaller case for the amount of hardware I had in it.


Thats some next level building, you should make a new forum topic for these types of builds.


----------



## Hequaqua

I have a HL Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS, and I've seem to have lost the mounting screws for my fans. I'm mounting just standard 120mm fans. 

Anyone know what size, length, pitch needed?

I emailed them several days ago and haven't heard back. 

Thanks


----------



## Mxj1

Hequaqua said:


> I have a HL Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS, and I've seem to have lost the mounting screws for my fans. I'm mounting just standard 120mm fans.
> 
> Anyone know what size, length, pitch needed?
> 
> I emailed them several days ago and haven't heard back.
> 
> Thanks


m4 x 0.7 - 30 mm


----------



## Hequaqua

Mxj1 said:


> m4 x 0.7 - 30 mm


I thought so, just wanted to make sure. MMMods has them for .50/ea. 

https://modmymods.com/modmymods-m4-x-30mm-phillips-pan-head-screw-black-mod-0287.html

Thanks!


----------



## looniam

Hequaqua said:


> I have a HL Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS, and I've seem to have lost the mounting screws for my fans. I'm mounting just standard 120mm fans.
> 
> Anyone know what size, length, pitch needed?
> 
> I emailed them several days ago and haven't heard back.
> 
> Thanks





Mxj1 said:


> m4 x 0.7 - 30 mm


that would be correct.

though it looks like screws come with it:
https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/hardwarelabs-nemesis-360-gts-radiator-review/









> Extent of Delivery:
> 
> 1x Radiator
> 
> 12x M4 x 28mm black Phillips slotted pan head screws.
> 
> 12x M4 x 5mm black Phillips slotted pan head screws.


on the bottom of page 2:


> The choice of M4 threads for fan mounting is my favorite. The stealth design means that there is not much depth to the inbuilt shroud on each side (5mm) but there are protector plates to help prevent damage from attempting to use incompatible length screws.


25mm(fan)+5mm= 30mm


----------



## Hequaqua

looniam said:


> that would be correct.
> 
> though it looks like screws come with it:
> https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/hardwarelabs-nemesis-360-gts-radiator-review/
> View attachment 352700
> 
> 
> on the bottom of page 2:
> 
> 25mm(fan)+5mm= 30mm


I'll double check when I get them. I can throw on a washer if needed. I painted my rad. Just the housing not the fins. It was red, now its a hammered metal look on it. 

EDIT: Added the before pics of the rad



Spoiler


----------



## looniam

i'm not big on red but those do look sweet.


----------



## Mikecdm

I changed out some hardware and redid my loop. Was pretty nasty inside.


----------



## J7SC

Mikecdm said:


> I changed out some hardware and redid my loop. Was pretty nasty inside.


 
Nice to have a cleaned-up loop. What liquid were you running prior to rebuild, and how long was it in there ? Wondering about the deposits...


----------



## Mikecdm

J7SC said:


> Nice to have a cleaned-up loop. What liquid were you running prior to rebuild, and how long was it in there ? Wondering about the deposits...


I was using the primochill utopia along with white lrt. It was in there for maybe 1-2 years. I don't really know how long it was.

I did some searching, turns out I posted in this thread march 2018 when i first got the R6 and swapped my gear over. During that time i drained enough to swap the gpu out and then topped off. Turns out it had been over 2 years.


----------



## J7SC

Mikecdm said:


> I was using the primochill utopia along with white lrt. It was in there for maybe 1-2 years. I don't really know how long it was.
> 
> I did some searching, turns out I posted in this thread march 2018 when i first got the R6 and swapped my gear over. During that time i drained enough to swap the gpu out and then topped off. Turns out it had been over 2 years.


 
Thanks. I did two w-cooled builds (including sig one) in December '18, and so far, so good re. temps, and deposits in the visible areas (reservoir and also clear parts of GPU blocks, including micro-fins). Still, by December '20, time for some more serious loop maintenance.


----------



## Mxj1

Hequaqua said:


> I'll double check when I get them. I can throw on a washer if needed. I painted my rad. Just the housing not the fins. It was red, now its a hammered metal look on it.


You can get a 25 pack on amazon for $5.

I just double checked one of the screws that shipped with one of my rads - 30mm. :thumb:


----------



## Hequaqua

Mxj1 said:


> You can get a 25 pack on amazon for $5.
> 
> I just double checked one of the screws that shipped with one of my rads - 30mm. :thumb:


Cool...thanks!:thumb:


----------



## computertechy

Thought i would post on here, still rocking my mountain mods case and the same rads (2 x Thermochill PA.120.3 & HWLabs Black Ice GTX 360) for over 9 years, still kicking ass keeping a 2080ti @ 42.c & 9900K @ 75.c

Can't be bothered with all the hardline pretty looking stuff, i like it and that's all that matters.

wishing you all zero leaks!


----------



## Lionheart1980

computertechy said:


> Thought i would post on here, still rocking my mountain mods case and the same rads (2 x Thermochill PA.120.3 & HWLabs Black Ice GTX 360) for over 9 years, still kicking ass keeping a 2080ti @ 42.c & 9900K @ 75.c
> 
> Can't be bothered with all the hardline pretty looking stuff, i like it and that's all that matters.
> 
> wishing you all zero leaks!


Dayum, that's some serious WC there lol


----------



## chibi

Mikecdm said:


> I changed out some hardware and redid my loop. Was pretty nasty inside.


Hey Mike, what size ZMT tubing is that? Thanks

Awesome build btw, looks way better without all that gunk in the cpu block. :thumb:


----------



## Mikecdm

chibi said:


> Hey Mike, what size ZMT tubing is that? Thanks
> 
> Awesome build btw, looks way better without all that gunk in the cpu block. :thumb:


I'm using the 7/16" 5/8" (11.1mm / 15.9mm). The fittings are bitspower 7/16 5/8 that i've had for years. Luckily the zmt fit better than I expected. I thought it was going to be a tight fit. It was a little more difficult to tighten than the previous lrt tubing I was using, but not too hard. This time around I changed the way I routed some of the tubes and purchased the multiport top for the reservoir to help accomplish that. Unfortunately all of the ports on the top are recessed in and make it difficult to put a fitting on there and seal properly.


----------



## Circaflex

Mikecdm said:


> I was using the primochill utopia along with white lrt. It was in there for maybe 1-2 years. I don't really know how long it was.
> 
> I did some searching, turns out I posted in this thread march 2018 when i first got the R6 and swapped my gear over. During that time i drained enough to swap the gpu out and then topped off. Turns out it had been over 2 years.


Oh man that post brings back so many good memories. The u2ufo was a sweet case, wish I still had my brushed aluminum one . And those PA's, many they were good but how silly were the mounting holes?!?!?! Good times indeed.


----------



## Avacado

Meet my folding rig, reborn by my 14 year old son. Not too shabby, the drain port is in a super sub-ideal position. Good thing dad has a data vac, we are going to need it! All in all he picked the parts from my excess and bent most of the tubing, I helped when he couldn't figure some things out. Hey, its holding air pressure so we will move to fill soon.


----------



## Mxj1

Box fish


----------



## jarble

Finally got the most elusive part in for the 1000d (who would have thought a $9 fan tray could hold up a build for over six months) so now I can load up the quad HWL 480's. They _just_ clear so I am happy as a lark . On to some final plumbing and I will post up some properly dusted pictures.


----------



## Fluxmaven

computertechy said:


> Thought i would post on here, still rocking my mountain mods case and the same rads (2 x Thermochill PA.120.3 & HWLabs Black Ice GTX 360) for over 9 years, still kicking ass keeping a 2080ti @ 42.c & 9900K @ 75.c
> 
> Can't be bothered with all the hardline pretty looking stuff, i like it and that's all that matters.
> 
> wishing you all zero leaks!


Sweet rig. I still love big cases and soft tubing. I like the pretty builds too, but would take a setup like yours over a hardline O11 Dynamic build any day of the week.


----------



## newls1

computertechy said:


> Thought i would post on here, still rocking my mountain mods case and the same rads (2 x Thermochill PA.120.3 & HWLabs Black Ice GTX 360) for over 9 years, still kicking ass keeping a 2080ti @ 42.c & 9900K @ 75.c
> 
> Can't be bothered with all the hardline pretty looking stuff, i like it and that's all that matters.
> 
> wishing you all zero leaks!


May the best radiators and cases never die!!! So refreshing to see those again


----------



## farpetrad

jarble said:


> Finally got the most elusive part in for the 1000d (who would have thought a $9 fan tray could hold up a build for over six months) so now I can load up the quad HWL 480's. They _just_ clear so I am happy as a lark . On to some final plumbing and I will post up some properly dusted pictures.


Oh wow where did you find it? I've had notify on corsairs site forever and nothing....


----------



## jarble

farpetrad said:


> Oh wow where did you find it? I've had notify on corsairs site forever and nothing....


Did not find it so much as I have had an open ticket with support for that long. I just kept reopening the ticket any time they closed it and I think they got tired of me . The one I ended up with came direct from china so it really seems like they don't have stock in the US. If you have not open a ticket and give them a call as it seems to help to have an open ticket before you call in.


----------



## cstkl1

enter the dragon


----------



## J7SC

:headscrat A clear acrylic 'heads-up' for custom builds...

Context: With plans to mod a Core P5 further (below w/ & w/o acrylic cover) as well as plans for a new custom build, I did some checking 5+ months ago re. availability and prices of clear acrylic sheets...and came back seriously discouraged...

Since then, Covid-19 seems to really have done a number on clear acrylic, i.e. for separators at cashiers at supermarkets, banks, restaurants and such. At first, this meant extremely short supply and even higher prices - but now, supply seems to pick up dramatically. Notwithstanding that there rarely if ever has been a pandemic without a 2nd wave, if you're planning a build with a custom clear acrylic component, you might want to check 2nd-hand supplies in a few months, including for unusual-for-PC sizing and also thickness, ranging from super-flexy to w-block rigid...


----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## prznar1

https://www.frozencpu.com/products/..._LTCP03A-04N.html?tl=c325s842b236&id=YG2PDhwt

Me thinking is it a good block. Price is great... Not willing to pay 100€ for CPU block like ej or hk iv pro. Still have my heatkiller 3.0 LT but cant find AMD mounting mechanism for sale, with reasonable shopping cost. Can't find any reviews about this Barrow block. Anyone here have it? My plan is to slamm this on R5 3600.


----------



## Steven Stacy

prznar1 said:


> https://www.frozencpu.com/products/..._LTCP03A-04N.html?tl=c325s842b236&id=YG2PDhwt
> 
> Me thinking is it a good block. Price is great... Not willing to pay 100€ for CPU block like ej or hk iv pro. Still have my heatkiller 3.0 LT but cant find AMD mounting mechanism for sale, with reasonable shopping cost. Can't find any reviews about this Barrow block. Anyone here have it? My plan is to slamm this on R5 3600.


How much is the corsair Xc7 in your area? Xc7 did great for myu 3950x but I ended up getting a ek monoblock. Now I have a 2 month old Xc7 that I'm not sure what to do with yet.


----------



## prznar1

Steven Stacy said:


> How much is the corsair Xc7 in your area? Xc7 did great for myu 3950x but I ended up getting a ek monoblock. Now I have a 2 month old Xc7 that I'm not sure what to do with yet.


About 80€ on Poland. Main goal is to get silent yet still good performance for reasonable price. This Corsair block looks good. TPU review shows its one of best bangs for Buck. Thx for info! Gonna look to it more


----------



## Steven Stacy

prznar1 said:


> About 80€ on Poland. Main goal is to get silent yet still good performance for reasonable price. This Corsair block looks good. TPU review shows its one of best bangs for Buck. Thx for info! Gonna look to it more


Not a problem. What I've been finding out is that corsair doesn't always manufacture their water cooling components and fittings, but they do their research and have a reputable company manufacture a product based on current designs and tweak it a little to appeal to the consumers. The prices seem lower to. A good example are their rads. HWlab GTS. slightly different but they perform well.


----------



## Shawnb99

Steven Stacy said:


> Not a problem. What I've been finding out is that corsair doesn't always manufacture their water cooling components and fittings, but they do their research and have a reputable company manufacture a product based on current designs and tweak it a little to appeal to the consumers. The prices seem lower to. A good example are their rads. HWlab GTS. slightly different but they perform well.



I don’t think they manufacture any of their WC products, same with some PSU’s are rebranded Seasonics


----------



## Hequaqua

Maybe someone can calculate this for me...lol

I have a question about this product:
Barrow G1/4" Flow Meter with 3-Pin RPM - Clear/Black (SLF-V3)

It reads via a cable to the motherboard...how would you calculate the flow through it....I found this on AliExpress:

The water flow calibration is set to 86 IMP / L, and the correct flow rate is displayed.
If you say that the speed you receive is 90, then you use 90 to remove the value obtained by 86, that is, every minute through the water flow of water, the unit is liters.

Just wanted to know if anyone has a clue of how to calculate flow through this? I want to set it in HWiNFO64.


----------



## Avacado

Hequaqua said:


> Maybe someone can calculate this for me...lol
> 
> I have a question about this product:
> Barrow G1/4" Flow Meter with 3-Pin RPM - Clear/Black (SLF-V3)
> 
> It reads via a cable to the motherboard...how would you calculate the flow through it....I found this on AliExpress:
> 
> The water flow calibration is set to 86 IMP / L, and the correct flow rate is displayed.
> If you say that the speed you receive is 90, then you use 90 to remove the value obtained by 86, that is, every minute through the water flow of water, the unit is liters.
> 
> Just wanted to know if anyone has a clue of how to calculate flow through this? I want to set it in HWiNFO64.


If you want a flow meter, get a flow meter, that is an RPM meter. It states "Standard 3-Pin Fan connector RPM signal output to monitor fluid speed." For 10$ more you could have this (Which I use currently) https://www.formulamod.com/bykski-d...-protect-cpu-and-gpu-b-tfc-cs-x-p2619469.html

Will give you flow/temp/RPM.


----------



## dwolvin

That's really cool, shame it's got a molex (it's getting harder and harder to have a special cable in my build just for molex).


----------



## Hequaqua

Avacado said:


> If you want a flow meter, get a flow meter, that is an RPM meter. It states "Standard 3-Pin Fan connector RPM signal output to monitor fluid speed." For 10$ more you could have this (Which I use currently) https://www.formulamod.com/bykski-d...-protect-cpu-and-gpu-b-tfc-cs-x-p2619469.html
> 
> Will give you flow/temp/RPM.


You are correct. I have order from FormulaMod that I've been waiting on for 50 days now. Shipping from China is a joke right now. I don't really need any "meter"......but, with that said, there should be a way to calculate the flow based off the rpms.

EDIT: Plus that is aluminum. NOTE:The all-aluminium module MUST be used in aluminium compatible loops.


----------



## Avacado

Hequaqua said:


> You are correct. I have order from FormulaMod that I've been waiting on for 50 days now. Shipping from China is a joke right now. I don't really need any "meter"......but, with that said, there should be a way to calculate the flow based off the rpms.
> 
> EDIT: Plus that is aluminum. NOTE:The all-aluminium module MUST be used in aluminium compatible loops.


No it is not aluminum "Material: POM", I read read the page twice and I did no see where it says it is all aluminum, there are a couple Barrowch ones out there that say that, but not the one I linked. Secondly, no the is NO way to accurately measure flow from RPM's.

Here is a link for a quick read on what POM is. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene


----------



## Hequaqua

Avacado said:


> No it is not aluminum "Material: POM", I read read the page twice and I did no see where it says it is all aluminum, there are a couple Barrowch ones out there that say that, but not the one I linked. Secondly, no the is NO way to accurately measure flow from RPM's.
> 
> Here is a link for a quick read on what POM is. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene


I'm not saying it would be 100% accurate....but there should be a way to "calculate/approximate" flow. The instructions for calculating are there....they are just a mess really...lol

As for it being POM, that seems to be correct.(I believe Bykski does make one that is all aluminum) My bad. Either way....with shipping the way it is, I'll wait for things to normalize. 

Thanks for the info. :thumb:


----------



## Avacado

Hequaqua said:


> I'm not saying it would be 100% accurate....but there should be a way to "calculate/approximate" flow. The instructions for calculating are there....they are just a mess really...lol
> 
> As for it being POM, that seems to be correct.(I believe Bykski does make one that is all aluminum) My bad. Either way....with shipping the way it is, I'll wait for things to normalize.
> 
> Thanks for the info. :thumb:


I hear you on the shipping. I waited 2 1/2 months on the boxfish from them. I will say that new orders shipped from China have been flowing pretty good as of late. I think I waited 2 weeks to get that Flow Meter.


----------



## Hequaqua

Avacado said:


> I hear you on the shipping. I waited 2 1/2 months on the boxfish from them. I will say that new orders shipped from China have been flowing pretty good as of late. I think I waited 2 weeks to get that Flow Meter.


I've done quite a bit of business with FormulaMod...most of the time, yea, about 2 weeks. This last order has been sitting at the airport since May 3. 

I'm hoping it will at least show up in NY next week sometime.


----------



## Regel

Some small updates to my rig: I mounted the Corsair res/pump combo to the bottom radiator instead of the side radiator. This allowed me to straighten it a bit more thanks to the tension from the inlet tube. It also allowed me to put 2 Noctua NF-A12x15 slim fans on the side radiator, so now this one is also push-pull (well 2 of 3 parts at least).

Plus I had some more fun with iCue! I purposely left the top 3 LL120 fans completely white, as I didn't like the blue shine on the motherboard it would give otherwise. And it is sitting under my desk anyway, so I don't really see these fans.


----------



## phas3d

Finally got around to switching out soft tubing AIO with this hard tubing of my ThreadRipper 3960X. Now idle temp at stock frequency is around 39c and full load is around 67c. Was hoping for better but not bad considering all fans run at minimal RPM for ultra quiet run. This is an all EKwb build. Probably should have gone with the Optimus TR cpu block but given there's no real idea when I would be getting one I opted for the full nickle block from EK. Went for an overall black/gold/orange look. Still working on a few of the lighting coloring but so far it's pretty nice. The tubing is far from perfect but overall i think it's fine. When the NVidia 3090 comes out i'll add a GPU block and another EK-CoolStream radiator and that will be my chance to rework some of this tubing I didn't get perfect the first time.

Case is the ThermalTake View 91 (big sucker). This is far from my first build but my first hard tubing build. I've been water cooling since around 2000.

Radiator is the EK-CoolStream XE 480 (Quad) in push/pull configuration. 
EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 1000mm
EK-Velocity sTR4 RGB - Full Nickel
EK-CryoFuel Solid Fire Orange
EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 300 D5 PWM D-RGB - Acetal
EK-Torque HTC-16 - Black (w/Gold inserts)


----------



## Circaflex

Sweet rig^^


----------



## phas3d

Circaflex said:


> Sweet rig^^


Thanks!

Here's the new color scheme...


----------



## legcramp

Had a lot of spare parts after upgrading my main PC to hard tubing so threw together a loop for my Ryzen HTPC after picking up a used D5; still waiting for 240mm rad and cheap gpu block in the mail.


----------



## Avacado

legcramp said:


> Had a lot of spare parts after upgrading my main PC to hard tubing so threw together a loop for my Ryzen HTPC after picking up a used D5; still waiting for 240mm rad and cheap gpu block in the mail.


Sweet, I dig the pink.


----------



## iamjanco

Just a really short video of the initial test: mora3 420 fan matrices blow air when powered up via the active splitty9s i swapped in (9 sw3 hi speed pwm fans each; really, really quiet). i'll be even more pumped once i get the wiring and leak checks done.






In the meantime, gonna do a fan speed test to determine the rpms without the aquasuite software up and running.


----------



## iamjanco

Duplicate post, please delete.


----------



## Steven Stacy

Decided to do away with push/pull and went with push on both rads. Water cooled the PCH with a china made GPU block I had laying around when I first started water cooling. I originally was just going to test with it and order a EK PCH block for this motherboard. But it works really well and decided I didn't care it is zip-tied to the MB! If you look close enough, the zip-ties are red.


----------



## dwolvin

Hey, *iamjanco, *is that to cool a server rackmount unit or something?


----------



## iamjanco

^Mainly a test bench setup for now. It's designed to be modular in a way that it could be hooked up to other watercooled systems via the use of quick disconnects though.


----------



## dwolvin

When your testbench covers HTPC to V8... ????


----------



## iamjanco

^chuckle, it certainly could, I guess. though v8 might be stretching it a bit.

@J7SC


----------



## Steven Stacy

Steven Stacy said:


> Decided to do away with push/pull and went with push on both rads. Water cooled the PCH with a china made GPU block I had laying around when I first started water cooling. I originally was just going to test with it and order a EK PCH block for this motherboard. But it works really well and decided I didn't care it is zip-tied to the MB! If you look close enough, the zip-ties are red.


Close up of state of the art dollar tree red zip ties holding a freebie block for PCH cooling.


----------



## J7SC

iamjanco said:


> ^chuckle, it certainly could, I guess. though v8 might be stretching it a bit.
> 
> @J7SC


 
...hey, it's your project...you can do V8 MoRa if you want to... :arrowhead


----------



## sdmf74

Getting ready to sleeve a bunch of darkside gentle typhoons & replace the white pwm connectors with black ones.
When you guys sleeve fans do you use adhesive lined heat shrink or regular 
heat shrink?

Also is the teleios or darkside sleeving any good? I couldn't get any MDPCX sleeving unfortunately.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Once my replacement distribution plate arrives from Singularity, I'm wondering if I'll have to reconfigure my loop, since the newer plate has a redesign.


----------



## sdmf74

What fans are you using?

If anyone sees my post I have another question what size sleeving is best for pwm fans?


----------



## J7SC

I'm getting ready for some loop maintenance on the build below (dual loops, 4x pumps total, 5x 360x55 rads total). Fortunately, I'm using those Koolance QDs (lower right) and that is turning out to make loop maintenance a lot easier...I have had these in use on various projects for 7 years w/o any leaks, discoloration etc . 

For a more complex water-cooled build, I highly recommend quality QDs


----------



## geriatricpollywog

J7SC said:


> I'm getting ready for some loop maintenance on the build below (dual loops, 4x pumps total, 5x 360x55 rads total). Fortunately, I'm using those Koolance QDs (lower right) and that is turning out to make loop maintenance a lot easier...I have had these in use on various projects for 7 years w/o any leaks, discoloration etc .
> 
> For a more complex water-cooled build, I highly recommend quality QDs


Can you show a closeup on the quick disconnects? I want to add something like that to my build.


----------



## J7SC

0451 said:


> Can you show a closeup on the quick disconnects? I want to add something like that to my build.


 
...in the set of Koolance QDs below, it is the ones on the right. These QDs also have relatively low 'flow restriction'


----------



## farpetrad

Cleaned up the runs a little after taking apart the reservoir yesterday. Now to find the motivation to clean up al the fan and rgb wires.


----------



## sdmf74

I've got a white triple rotary if interested.

This thread is dead. Too bad use to be a highly trafficked thread


----------



## chibi

sdmf74 said:


> I've got a white triple rotary if interested.
> 
> This thread is dead. Too bad use to be a highly trafficked thread


You mean this site is dead with the forum update lol.


----------



## dwolvin

Triple rotary- 3x 45 degree fitting?


And yeah, here and HardOCP's forum are both quiet.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Some changes to my setup went to a x570 and moved my rads around my setup is not as pretty and clean as i wanted better cooling and ease of removing parts so my psu got moved up and its ugly wires can be seen now but i did just nab a cable mods rgb/uv kit for 10 bucks its kinda cool.


----------



## Death Dealer

This is the newest project I've been tinkering with, and my oldest case.


----------



## mongoled

May as well post my rig as its been at a "completed" stage for quite a while now.

Nice and simple, very little bling bling, crisp and clean a "classic" look


----------



## ProfeZZor X

My Singularity Spectre manifold finally arrived today, to replace the problematic (1.0) version that I've been using. The quality of the acrylic is amazing, and it's redesigned a lot more efficient than the first iteration. Fewer acrylic layers, the gasket fastners are solid, cable management is more efficient, and the fill port is easily accessible. Kudos to Daniel at Singularity for expediting this so quickly. It's gonna take some time to tear down my case, but as long as the leaking ceases, it'll be worth it.


----------



## dwolvin

Is the left half for power cables?


Can't wait to see this in action!


----------



## mongoled

ProfeZZor X said:


> My Singularity Spectre manifold finally arrived today, to replace the problematic (1.0) version that I've been using. The quality of the acrylic is amazing, and it's redesigned a lot more efficient than the first iteration. Fewer acrylic layers, the gasket fastners are solid, cable management is more efficient, and the fill port is easily accessible. Kudos to Daniel at Singularity for expediting this so quickly. It's gonna take some time to tear down my case, but as long as the leaking ceases, it'll be worth it.


Woooo,

thats next level stuff, didnt know that such stuff existed!

Though you need the wonga!

Saying that, over the years ive probabaly spent more on watercooling equipments to get where I am now.

Can you link to some pictures of your rig ?


----------



## opt33

Thermaltake Suppressor F31 case....an inch taller clone of Define R5-7. Really enjoyed the Define R5 simplistic design and very quiet soundproofing, but new z390 mobo with larger heatsinks and higher ram placement was no go with 280 rad and Defines R5-R7 only 36mm top clearance. Glad thermaltake copied Define except fixed the top rad clearance problem, exact case I was hoping Define R7 to be. 

pic of F31 with tempered glass side panel off.


----------



## Gilles3000

opt33 said:


> Thermaltake Suppressor F31 case....an inch taller clone of Define R5-7. Really enjoyed the Define R5 simplistic design and very quiet soundproofing, but new z390 mobo with larger heatsinks and higher ram placement was no go with 280 rad and Defines R5-R7 only 36mm top clearance. Glad thermaltake copied Define except fixed the top rad clearance problem, exact case I was hoping Define R7 to be.
> 
> pic of F31 with tempered glass side panel off.


Looks great!:thumb:

Btw, if you notice that your internal case temperature is getting rather high, the front fans in the F31 might recirculate internal air because of the large hole where the 5.25" bays were and the rather restrictive intake. If possible try to block that hole so the fans are forced to intake through the front vents.

If not, don't worry about it.


----------



## opt33

Gilles3000 said:


> Looks great!:thumb:
> 
> Btw, if you notice that your internal case temperature is getting rather high, the front fans in the F31 might recirculate internal air because of the large hole where the 5.25" bays were and the rather restrictive intake. If possible try to block that hole so the fans are forced to intake through the front vents.
> 
> If not, don't worry about it.


Thanks, and yes definitely agree about holes... learned about recirculation problem from my old Define R5, same issue. I closed top front hole with a piece of top of my old R5 case and taped all other holes. Top rad same issue, used table saw to cut the top pieces into exact shape of the 280 rad so top under filter looks very neat...the front with tape not as much...but gets job done. My sensor I placed in front starts at 25C, after stress testing maxes at 26C to 27C after long runs, so seems to prevent recirc. pretty well. Prior to plugging holes the front intake temp would be in the 30's.


----------



## Soulpatch

Finally got some time to update the changes started months ago. Replaced the LCD readout with a small LED screen 5.5"x9.5" [email protected] Obviously larger/better resolution and much less prone to burn in. Plus it's easier to on/off when not in use. Made a new bracket for the 60mm VRM fan and finally got the upper reservoir mounted. Just need to take the time to shut it all down/drain and do some quick bending to plumb it all in.


----------



## Avacado

Soulpatch said:


> Finally got some time to update the changes started months ago. Replaced the LCD readout with a small LED screen 5.5"x9.5" [email protected] Obviously larger/better resolution and much less prone to burn in. Plus it's easier to on/off when not in use. Made a new bracket for the 60mm VRM fan and finally got the upper reservoir mounted. Just need to take the time to shut it all down/drain and do some quick bending to plumb it all in.


I Hate Love your setup.


----------



## Soulpatch

Avacado said:


> I Hate Love your setup.



lol thanks? If you know anybody who needs a small LCD readout let me know. Since updated I'm thinking of too many ways to "use" it again and that means spending money. So think it'd be better off not sitting on a shelf where I can see it lol


----------



## Soulpatch

ProfeZZor X said:


> My Singularity Spectre manifold finally arrived today, to replace the problematic (1.0) version that I've been using. The quality of the acrylic is amazing, and it's redesigned a lot more efficient than the first iteration. Fewer acrylic layers, the gasket fastners are solid, cable management is more efficient, and the fill port is easily accessible. Kudos to Daniel at Singularity for expediting this so quickly. It's gonna take some time to tear down my case, but as long as the leaking ceases, it'll be worth it.



I'd love to see pics when this is locked in place.


----------



## chibi

Soulpatch said:


> Finally got some time to update the changes started months ago. Replaced the LCD readout with a small LED screen 5.5"x9.5" [email protected] Obviously larger/better resolution and much less prone to burn in. Plus it's easier to on/off when not in use. Made a new bracket for the 60mm VRM fan and finally got the upper reservoir mounted. Just need to take the time to shut it all down/drain and do some quick bending to plumb it all in.



Neat read out screen. Can you provide details on what's needed to set one up?


----------



## Soulpatch

If you look at my previous setup the bracket is a 1/4" thick piece of acrylic that was heated/bent and drilled to match the hole pattern. Plastic stand-offs/bolts you can get at the hardware as well. The lcd screen is a 3x5 picked up off of amazon (apple pi). It's a touch screen, but easily used as a secondary monitor (setup in win10). Led screen is bigger but requires a bit more power than a usb plug into the motherboard. 12v plugged into the power strip under the desk. The rest is making sure it's setup as a secondary monitor, then using HWinfo64 to pick/choose which sensor readings you want to use. Think that was the hardest part of the whole process lol But honestly it started out as just wanting something to monitor overclocking/coolant/hardware systems and most of the "in loop" monitors were either to expensive or questionable materials. So it just popped into my head to use a small secondary "monitor". honestly surprised nobody else really had the same thoughts. Think there's a builder out there who used the same idea awhile ago. Long before I ever did. But when initially searching nothing came up.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

dwolvin said:


> Is the left half for power cables?
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see this in action!


The frosted area in the lower left half of the acrylic is for the cable management.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

mongoled said:


> Woooo,
> 
> thats next level stuff, didnt know that such stuff existed!
> 
> Though you need the wonga!
> 
> Saying that, over the years ive probabaly spent more on watercooling equipments to get where I am now.
> 
> Can you link to some pictures of your rig ?



I haven't made an official build log for this one - seeing as I don't have it dialed to the way I really want it, but I do have an extensive page of my last build "The Liquidator" 7 years ago. For that one, I used rigid wires and an unusual acrylic process:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...430680-build-log-liquidator-99-completed.html


----------



## nycgtr

Second attempt at a build video


----------



## Soulpatch

VERY nice build, extremely clean, modern and I love those compression fittings! They add the perfect touch to compliment the look of the build. Is it me or is everything upside down? I've been away from any major building for years, so let me know if I'm wrong. Do you have a specs list? Curious about the internals.


----------



## nycgtr

Soulpatch said:


> VERY nice build, extremely clean, modern and I love those compression fittings! They add the perfect touch to compliment the look of the build. Is it me or is everything upside down? I've been away from any major building for years, so let me know if I'm wrong. Do you have a specs list? Curious about the internals.


Thanks.

The layout is intended to be inverted atx. 

Specs are 
128gb 3466
3970x TR
2080ti strix 
1300 g2 supernova
INwin 909Ek 
10 Nvmes across the build 8x2tb 2x1tb


----------



## Shawnb99

nycgtr said:


> Thanks.
> 
> The layout is intended to be inverted atx.
> 
> Specs are
> 128gb 3466
> 3970x TR
> 2080ti strix
> 1300 g2 supernova
> INwin 909Ek
> 10 Nvmes across the build 8x2tb 2x1tb



How difficult did you find routing tubing to be since everything is designed for normal ATX. I have a reverse one as well. So much is designed to go left to right ie inlet/outlet ports that I’m going to have to get creative to route my tubing. 

Love the extra screen for monitoring


----------



## J7SC

nycgtr said:


> Thanks.
> 
> The layout is intended to be inverted atx.
> 
> Specs are
> 128gb 3466
> 3970x TR
> 2080ti strix
> 1300 g2 supernova
> INwin 909Ek
> 10 Nvmes across the build 8x2tb 2x1tb


 
...gorgeous build ! :thumb: I am also looking at your comment about the 10 Nvmes...I can see two PCIe cards for those (2x 4) and I guess 2x on the mobo ? No issues overall with PCIe link width (noting also the GPU) ?


----------



## nycgtr

There’s 4 On board , 4 in the aorus card, 2 on the asus. Reason being the 16/8/16/8. Beauty of tr is the lane count. Only the taichi board is 16/16/16. I’d prefer that layout but the board is really not my taste elsewise


----------



## J7SC

nycgtr said:


> There’s 4 On board , 4 in the aorus card, 2 on the asus. Reason being the 16/8/16/8. Beauty of tr is the lane count. Only the taichi board is 16/16/16. I’d prefer that layout but the board is really not my taste elsewise


 
Tx for the info...I feel the same...16x/16x/16x would be nice, but preferably on the Aorus, MSI or Asus


----------



## Soulpatch

nycgtr said:


> Thanks.
> 
> The layout is intended to be inverted atx.
> 
> Specs are
> 128gb 3466
> 3970x TR
> 2080ti strix
> 1300 g2 supernova
> INwin 909Ek
> 10 Nvmes across the build 8x2tb 2x1tb



I thought it was an inverted build, but had to be sure. You'd be amazed at how many times I've seen people post pics on here and they were upside down. It's like wow, you can do a custom build but don't know how to rotate a picture? lol Definitely a solid build and some serious storage/ram lol Makes my machine look pretty simple in comparison lol


----------



## nycgtr

J7SC said:


> Tx for the info...I feel the same...16x/16x/16x would be nice, but preferably on the Aorus, MSI or Asus


Well since it is pcie 4. It's possible 8 lanes on pcie4 has 0 harm on high end gen4 gpus. This would allow the 2x16s to go to storage bifurcation. I will be testing this for sure when 3000 series drops.


----------



## computertechy

cleaned out the cobwebs.


----------



## ThrashZone

@nycgtr
Another nice build :thumb:

I picked up a awesome little hwbot China clone test bench only 4 1/2" tall perfect for my entertainment center, putting it in the top space not the bottom
Fun part is dealing with the cheap lg t.v. with two feet on each end instead of one center stand but got it sorted and hopefully done this weekend and Monday sometime a couple QDC's to finish the loop


----------



## SuperMumrik

ThrashZone said:


> @nycgtr
> Another nice build /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
> 
> I picked up a awesome little hwbot China clone test bench only 4 1/2" tall perfect for my entertainment center, putting it in the top space not the bottom
> Fun part is dealing with the cheap lg t.v. with two feet on each end instead of one center stand but got it sorted and hopefully done this weekend and Monday sometime a couple QDC's to finish the loop /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


Looks perfect for my need! Where did you get it? Tnx


----------



## ThrashZone

SuperMumrik said:


> Looks perfect for my need! Where did you get it? Tnx


Hi,
Not many in stock I'll pm you


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Getting there on a rainy Saturday 
QDC's Monday or Tuesday and finish the loop.


----------



## Hequaqua

Avacado said:


> If you want a flow meter, get a flow meter, that is an RPM meter. It states "Standard 3-Pin Fan connector RPM signal output to monitor fluid speed." For 10$ more you could have this (Which I use currently) https://www.formulamod.com/bykski-d...-protect-cpu-and-gpu-b-tfc-cs-x-p2619469.html
> 
> Will give you flow/temp/RPM.


I took your advice and ordered this meter. I didn't get it from FormulaMod though. Their last order to me took 62 days!:sozo:

I picked it up on AliExpress. Shipping was so so...took like 24 days(better than my last order that was 57).....lol

Anyway....love the look.



Spoiler






































Thanks....+1 rep


----------



## Soulpatch

Hequaqua said:


> I took your advice and ordered this meter. I didn't get it from FormulaMod though. Their last order to me took 62 days!:sozo:
> 
> I picked it up on AliExpress. Shipping was so so...took like 24 days(better than my last order that was 57).....lol
> 
> Anyway....love the look.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 362780
> 
> 
> View attachment 362782
> 
> 
> View attachment 362784
> 
> 
> View attachment 362788
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks....+1 rep



Really could have used something like that a few months back! lol I wasn't concerned so much with flow, since the loop is so small all you really need is an indicator to know the fluid is moving. But I really wanted a temp readout more than anything else. Most of what people pointed out where made with questionable metals and I didn't want to cross contaminate my loop. So ended up building a monitor screen and using hwinfo to pick and choose the data I wanted to see. Started out with a little 3x5" lcd touch screen and upgraded to a 6x10 led screen in the last month. Can monitor much more now, but it did cost a bit more lol Probably would have jumped on that in the beginning though. That's a nice little readout and the cost is excellent. How's it look through glass once installed? pretty clear read?


----------



## Hequaqua

Soulpatch said:


> Really could have used something like that a few months back! lol I wasn't concerned so much with flow, since the loop is so small all you really need is an indicator to know the fluid is moving. But I really wanted a temp readout more than anything else. Most of what people pointed out where made with questionable metals and I didn't want to cross contaminate my loop. So ended up building a monitor screen and using hwinfo to pick and choose the data I wanted to see. Started out with a little 3x5" lcd touch screen and upgraded to a 6x10 led screen in the last month. Can monitor much more now, but it did cost a bit more lol Probably would have jumped on that in the beginning though. That's a nice little readout and the cost is excellent. How's it look through glass once installed? pretty clear read?


Oh yea. Looks really nice imo.

I use a program called Trigone Remote System Monitor on my phone if I need something from HWiNFO. Nice little program.



Spoiler


----------



## Soulpatch

Hequaqua said:


> Oh yea. Looks really nice imo.
> 
> I use a program called Trigone Remote System Monitor on my phone if I need something from HWiNFO. Nice little program.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 362914
> View attachment 362916



Looked at something like that way back at the beginning of the build. Hell, could have been that lol But wanted something more fixed that I didn't need to monkey with. Hwinfo kicks on at the beginning of windows and if I need anything else it's easy to pull up. On the side monitor I just show the sensor data. Don't really need the graphs, the sensors tell me all i need to know. When I first started overclocking the system and wanted to monitor voltages more than anything hwinfo is definitely a good tool to have. Some serious sensor data to pull and he's virtually thought of everything. The little monitor is 1920x1080 resolution and I've blown the font up quite a bit, but didn't need to monitor everything lol Just some key points, will probably add a few more in the next week or two.


Post a more expanded pic. I'd like to see how it sits in there for readability. If down the road I decide to add flow then it may be worth looking at getting, especially for that price.


----------



## Hequaqua

Soulpatch said:


> Looked at something like that way back at the beginning of the build. Hell, could have been that lol But wanted something more fixed that I didn't need to monkey with. Hwinfo kicks on at the beginning of windows and if I need anything else it's easy to pull up. On the side monitor I just show the sensor data. Don't really need the graphs, the sensors tell me all i need to know. When I first started overclocking the system and wanted to monitor voltages more than anything hwinfo is definitely a good tool to have. Some serious sensor data to pull and he's virtually thought of everything. The little monitor is 1920x1080 resolution and I've blown the font up quite a bit, but didn't need to monitor everything lol Just some key points, will probably add a few more in the next week or two.
> 
> 
> Post a more expanded pic. I'd like to see how it sits in there for readability. If down the road I decide to add flow then it may be worth looking at getting, especially for that price.


Looks great!


----------



## Soulpatch

Hequaqua said:


> Looks great!





Thanks, but ya, post a pic of yours. I'd love to see what that flow meter looks like tucked into a case. It's always hindsight or somebody comes up with a new product later, but I'm thankful that this forum exists. Makes it a lot easier to get ideas, share info, etc. Like I told somebody awhile back, this is my first liquid cooled pc in 20+ years. When he said they didn't make parts back then, I came back with 'we made them ourselves'. SS tube, parker compression fittings and custom machined copper water blocks, rads out of motorcycles, etc. So its brilliant to see so much product out there now. I learn something new every day lol


----------



## Hequaqua

Soulpatch said:


> Thanks, but ya, post a pic of yours. I'd love to see what that flow meter looks like tucked into a case. It's always hindsight or somebody comes up with a new product later, but I'm thankful that this forum exists. Makes it a lot easier to get ideas, share info, etc. Like I told somebody awhile back, this is my first liquid cooled pc in 20+ years. When he said they didn't make parts back then, I came back with 'we made them ourselves'. SS tube, parker compression fittings and custom machined copper water blocks, rads out of motorcycles, etc. So its brilliant to see so much product out there now. I learn something new every day lol


I'll get some decent pics in the morning and post them up. This rig has underwent at least 3 iterations.....originally is was soft tubing. I picked up a GPU block and went hardline, now I'm back to soft. But, yea, I'll get some pics together and post them in the morning. Under the weather tonight...old, and tired....lol

:thumb:


----------



## Mxj1

Parts are definitely easier to get a hold of today than way back when.

I redid a few things recently and one of those was switching the ZMT in back to acrylic. I also fully sleeved both xylem pumps in the Alphacool dual pump setup and gave the a singe four pin ATX connector. The PWM wires also run to a single connection for the aquaero. 

I'm happy with the outcome.
@Soulpatch - do you ride? I spy a Deal's Gap map...


----------



## Hequaqua

@Soulpatch 

I couldn't get comfortable enough to sleep....so found a few old pics and took a few new ones for you. 

Enjoy!

13 pics from the various configs....soft/hard/soft. These are the first custom water builds for me(soft/hard). Really, only the last few pics are my second with soft. 



Spoiler


----------



## Soulpatch

Mxj1 said:


> Parts are definitely easier to get a hold of today than way back when.
> 
> I redid a few things recently and one of those was switching the ZMT in back to acrylic. I also fully sleeved both xylem pumps in the Alphacool dual pump setup and gave the a singe four pin ATX connector. The PWM wires also run to a single connection for the aquaero.
> 
> I'm happy with the outcome.
> 
> @*Soulpatch* - do you ride? I spy a Deal's Gap map...



Lol ya, I ride. modified 2013 electra glide ultra classic. Like to wrench on virtually everything literally lol 2019 my club did a rally there at deals gap. Stayed a week and hit all the great runs. Was a pretty good time.


----------



## Soulpatch

Hequaqua said:


> @*Soulpatch*
> 
> I couldn't get comfortable enough to sleep....so found a few old pics and took a few new ones for you.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 13 pics from the various configs....soft/hard/soft. These are the first custom water builds for me(soft/hard). Really, only the last few pics are my second with soft.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 363002
> View attachment 363004
> 
> 
> View attachment 363008
> View attachment 363022
> 
> 
> View attachment 363024
> View attachment 363006
> 
> 
> View attachment 363026
> View attachment 363010
> 
> 
> View attachment 363012
> View attachment 363014
> 
> 
> View attachment 363016
> View attachment 363018
> 
> 
> View attachment 363020



Ahhhh, I see you went back and forth with tubing so I was wondering how you mounted it. Good call running it off the hardpoint on the small rad. Good location for visibility at a glance. That's why I mounted my small monitor the way it is. Easy to glance over and see what everything is doing. Machine looks good over-all. It's been three years since I've gotten to do any significant engineering and I'm to the point where building virtually anything at this point is at least keeping the sanity together. Especially due to the lock-down.


----------



## Hequaqua

Soulpatch said:


> Ahhhh, I see you went back and forth with tubing so I was wondering how you mounted it. Good call running it off the hardpoint on the small rad. Good location for visibility at a glance. That's why I mounted my small monitor the way it is. Easy to glance over and see what everything is doing. Machine looks good over-all. It's been three years since I've gotten to do any significant engineering and I'm to the point where building virtually anything at this point is at least keeping the sanity together. Especially due to the lock-down.


Yea, I get bored.

Started with soft tubing to get my feet wet. Moved to hard....just to see if I could do it. About that time, my gpu took a dump. So...RMA'd it. By that point I was tired of messing with hard tubing. Moved back to soft....then changed out CPU blocks(Heatkiller to Optimus). If you don't have to swap out parts or whatever, hard tubing works and looks great. I'm a bit of a tinkerer....so will probably stick with soft for quite a while. It's just so much easier to maintain imo. 

Maybe one day, when I can afford a HUGE case, I'll do another hard tubing build. I'm bit of a benchmark nut really. I bet I have 10-15+ spreadsheets of gpu/cpu/ram/etc testing that I've done. I just started a new one.....I didn't know I had a fan festish!....lol

39 fans, not including the 7 in my main rig, the 7 in my back-up, and I'm not sure how many are in my son's. :kookoo:



Spoiler


----------



## Fluxmaven

Hequaqua said:


> Started with soft tubing to get my feet wet. Moved to hard....just to see if I could do it. About that time, my gpu took a dump. So...RMA'd it. By that point I was tired of messing with hard tubing. Moved back to soft....then changed out CPU blocks(Heatkiller to Optimus). If you don't have to swap out parts or whatever, hard tubing works and looks great. I'm a bit of a tinkerer....so will probably stick with soft for quite a while. It's just so much easier to maintain imo.
> 
> Maybe one day, when I can afford a HUGE case, I'll do another hard tubing build. I'm bit of a benchmark nut really. I bet I have 10-15+ spreadsheets of gpu/cpu/ram/etc testing that I've done. I just started a new one.....I didn't know I had a fan festish!....lol


I've done builds in half a dozen cases of various size and multiple revisions of some of them. Always went with soft tubing. I actually enjoy the look of it and it's really easy to change things around. I will eventually do at least one hard tube build just to say I did, but I doubt I'll fully convert all my rigs. I would be scared to add up how much I have sunk into Bitspower soft tube compression fittings lol. 

Your box of fans reminded me that I need to get some more boxes to organize my stuff. I keep saying that I need to get rid of stuff but that never happens, so I might as well organize it.


----------



## Hequaqua

Fluxmaven said:


> I've done builds in half a dozen cases of various size and multiple revisions of some of them. Always went with soft tubing. I actually enjoy the look of it and it's really easy to change things around. I will eventually do at least one hard tube build just to say I did, but I doubt I'll fully convert all my rigs. I would be scared to add up how much I have sunk into Bitspower soft tube compression fittings lol.
> 
> Your box of fans reminded me that I need to get some more boxes to organize my stuff. I keep saying that I need to get rid of stuff but that never happens, so I might as well organize it.


I agree with the soft tubing. I'm a bit of a tightwad(don't mind spending money on parts that make a difference, cpu/gpu/ram/etc), but I went with some Bykski soft fittings originally.....OMG, they were so hard to get the compression ring started on the fittings. I actually had blisters on my thumb. I had watched a guy on YT comparing BP fittings to some Barrow. I then ordered the Barrow hard line fittings from AliExpress. If you aren't in a hurry(pre-Covid) shipping wasn't too bad. I went with Barrow on the soft this time....for the price they are nice imo. I think I picked those up from FormulaMod...again shipping was really quick. Then Covid, thankfully I had enough parts to throw the soft back in there. 

As for the fans......I'm a bit OCD, so I figured....get them all together, buy a anemometer and digital RPM gauge and test them!....lol

I ended up making these:



Spoiler






































I did a run through with every fan.....12v/7v/5v and captured ft/min and rpm.....have them logged in a spreadsheet. I want to go back and run them again mounted on a rad and see what the ft/min is when restricted....lol My gaming buddies tell me I have too much time on my hangs.....

I think they're right! :wheee:


----------



## MakubeX

Industrial Silence

Case: Lian Li PC O11 Dynamic
CPU: AMD Ryzen 3900X
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Super Black Gaming
RAM: 32GB G.Skill F4-3600C16D-32GTZN
Mobo: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master
Storage:
- Sabrent 1TB Rocket Nvme PCIe 4.0
- ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB Nvme PCIe
- Adding a SATA SSD later
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 T2 80+ TITANIUM
Sound: Sound Blaster X3 external sound "card"


As it is right now with the Optimus AMD block and der8auer custom mount


Spoiler




























With the Aquacomputer Kryos Next silver block


Spoiler














For funssies


Spoiler














PS. If anyone knows how to prevent the image thumbnail from displaying sideways, please let me know.


----------



## Soulpatch

Fluxmaven said:


> I've done builds in half a dozen cases of various size and multiple revisions of some of them. Always went with soft tubing. I actually enjoy the look of it and it's really easy to change things around. I will eventually do at least one hard tube build just to say I did, but I doubt I'll fully convert all my rigs. I would be scared to add up how much I have sunk into Bitspower soft tube compression fittings lol.
> 
> Your box of fans reminded me that I need to get some more boxes to organize my stuff. I keep saying that I need to get rid of stuff but that never happens, so I might as well organize it.



I have a rolling tool box from sears that everything leftover gets stored in lol Once in awhile I clean it out, but it's got a fair amount of room for virtually everything and then some lol
it's left over from my career as a tattoo artist. Since it's no longer filled with needles/ink, machines, etc. Well, figured this would be a good use for it.


----------



## Soulpatch

Hequaqua said:


> I agree with the soft tubing. I'm a bit of a tightwad(don't mind spending money on parts that make a difference, cpu/gpu/ram/etc), but I went with some Bykski soft fittings originally.....OMG, they were so hard to get the compression ring started on the fittings. I actually had blisters on my thumb. I had watched a guy on YT comparing BP fittings to some Barrow. I then ordered the Barrow hard line fittings from AliExpress. If you aren't in a hurry(pre-Covid) shipping wasn't too bad. I went with Barrow on the soft this time....for the price they are nice imo. I think I picked those up from FormulaMod...again shipping was really quick. Then Covid, thankfully I had enough parts to throw the soft back in there.
> 
> As for the fans......I'm a bit OCD, so I figured....get them all together, buy a anemometer and digital RPM gauge and test them!....lol
> 
> I ended up making these:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 363192
> 
> 
> View attachment 363194
> 
> 
> View attachment 363196
> 
> 
> View attachment 363198
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a run through with every fan.....12v/7v/5v and captured ft/min and rpm.....have them logged in a spreadsheet. I want to go back and run them again mounted on a rad and see what the ft/min is when restricted....lol My gaming buddies tell me I have too much time on my hangs.....
> 
> I think they're right! :wheee:



Same way, I try to pickup everything on sale or do serious research on. Hate spending money twice because the original parts suck/fall apart, etc. That's why I went with the primo-chill fittings and 1/2" petg tubing. I get a lot of misc. from mcmaster-carr and you can get a 6' stick of tubing for next to nothing. The compression 0-rings are a common size as well. So ordering replacements is pennies and almost no wait time compared to the alternative. Being in the prototype engineering world for so long I've come to realize that many of these companies really screw you on the little things because most people don't know there are other sources. I used to get the little rubber nibs that go on my tattoo machines for $3 a box (500 pcs). While most guys would order a box of 20 from a tattoo store for $5-10 when you figured in shipping. Don't think I ever ordered more than that single box lol So ya it's always good to be a bit cheap. Hell, that's how I came up with the idea for the external lcd screen. Was $60 for a digital readout when I was first looking and I came across a 3x5 lcd screen for $25. Had an hdmi connection and my brain clicked and thought...hell, easier to setup, customize and faaaaaaaaar cheaper lol Plus there's the cool factor ROFL Many people have asked to buy a "kit" lol Just an lcd screen with a piece of acrylic sheet, heated/bent and drilled. Anybody can do it. 

Let me know what you find about fans. it's a good one to know since there is very little accurate data on them. They say "it will move 64cfm" but in reality it's closer to 40 in a real world environment. I tested engines in a dynocell and also in real world... HUGE difference. So dropping a fan into an NVH cell and then the real world where there are deflections from the case, etc. No real comparison.


----------



## Soulpatch

MakubeX said:


> Industrial Silence
> 
> Case: Lian Li PC O11 Dynamic
> CPU: AMD Ryzen 3900X
> GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Super Black Gaming
> RAM: 32GB G.Skill F4-3600C16D-32GTZN
> Mobo: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master
> Storage:
> - Sabrent 1TB Rocket Nvme PCIe 4.0
> - ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB Nvme PCIe
> - Adding a SATA SSD later
> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 T2 80+ TITANIUM
> Sound: Sound Blaster X3 external sound "card"
> 
> 
> As it is right now with the Optimus AMD block and der8auer custom mount
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 363270
> 
> View attachment 363272
> 
> View attachment 363274
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the Aquacomputer Kryos Next silver block
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 363276
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For funssies
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 363278
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS. If anyone knows how to prevent the image thumbnail from displaying sideways, please let me know.



Looks really sharp, but are those quick disconnects??? There are A LOT of them lol But I would imagine it's much easier swapping out components that way lol 

As for the sideways pic, no idea. Mine sometimes do that as well. Think it may have to do with the thumbnail dimension size allowance. Who knows lol


----------



## Hequaqua

Soulpatch said:


> Same way, I try to pickup everything on sale or do serious research on. Hate spending money twice because the original parts suck/fall apart, etc. That's why I went with the primo-chill fittings and 1/2" petg tubing. I get a lot of misc. from mcmaster-carr and you can get a 6' stick of tubing for next to nothing. The compression 0-rings are a common size as well. So ordering replacements is pennies and almost no wait time compared to the alternative. Being in the prototype engineering world for so long I've come to realize that many of these companies really screw you on the little things because most people don't know there are other sources. I used to get the little rubber nibs that go on my tattoo machines for $3 a box (500 pcs). While most guys would order a box of 20 from a tattoo store for $5-10 when you figured in shipping. Don't think I ever ordered more than that single box lol So ya it's always good to be a bit cheap. Hell, that's how I came up with the idea for the external lcd screen. Was $60 for a digital readout when I was first looking and I came across a 3x5 lcd screen for $25. Had an hdmi connection and my brain clicked and thought...hell, easier to setup, customize and faaaaaaaaar cheaper lol Plus there's the cool factor ROFL Many people have asked to buy a "kit" lol Just an lcd screen with a piece of acrylic sheet, heated/bent and drilled. Anybody can do it.
> 
> Let me know what you find about fans. it's a good one to know since there is very little accurate data on them. They say "it will move 64cfm" but in reality it's closer to 40 in a real world environment. I tested engines in a dynocell and also in real world... HUGE difference. So dropping a fan into an NVH cell and then the real world where there are deflections from the case, etc. No real comparison.


I hear ya. I got some screws with little round nuts on some fans....love them. You can't mount all your fans that way, but the ones I can, I do. I used the 12 that came with the fans, but needed a few more. Not sure I could order the "exact" same ones.....so I just went to Lowe's, got some M4 30/35mm and the nuts. They work fine. Think it was less than 8.00 for 40 of them. I also picked up some small nylon spacers...like 1mm to keep vibration down. lol

As for fans.....I would have to build a box to figure CFM wouldn't I? I'm not that smart....lol I have prelim numbers in....will probably go back and re-test and maybe take the average of what I observe. 

Here's what I have so far:

Fan Testing 2020


----------



## Shawnb99

MakubeX said:


> Industrial Silence
> 
> Case: Lian Li PC O11 Dynamic
> CPU: AMD Ryzen 3900X
> GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Super Black Gaming
> RAM: 32GB G.Skill F4-3600C16D-32GTZN
> Mobo: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master
> Storage:
> - Sabrent 1TB Rocket Nvme PCIe 4.0
> - ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB Nvme PCIe
> - Adding a SATA SSD later
> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 T2 80+ TITANIUM
> Sound: Sound Blaster X3 external sound "card"
> 
> 
> As it is right now with the Optimus AMD block and der8auer custom mount
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 363270
> 
> View attachment 363272
> 
> View attachment 363274
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the Aquacomputer Kryos Next silver block
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 363276
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For funssies
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 363278
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS. If anyone knows how to prevent the image thumbnail from displaying sideways, please let me know.


Sure you have enough QDC's? My god man. I see more fittings then I do tubing.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Soulpatch said:


> from mcmaster-carr and you can get a 6' stick of tubing for next to nothing.


Thanks for this. I know I'll want to try a bunch of complex bends and will probably ruin a bunch of tubing while trying. Buying 12-18' for the price of one pack of shorter tubes from the watercooling companies is very appealing.


----------



## MakubeX

Soulpatch said:


> Looks really sharp, but are those quick disconnects??? There are A LOT of them lol But I would imagine it's much easier swapping out components that way lol
> 
> As for the sideways pic, no idea. Mine sometimes do that as well. Think it may have to do with the thumbnail dimension size allowance. Who knows lol


Yup, that was my thinking. I wanted to make it easy to swap components on this build. I already replaced the CPU block (as you can see in the pics) and it was sooo easy. I'm glad I went that route! 



Shawnb99 said:


> Sure you have enough QDC's? My god man. I see more fittings then I do tubing.


QD4s and fittings for days! That's the style I was going for, hence the "Industrial" part of its name.


----------



## Shawnb99

MakubeX said:


> Yup, that was my thinking. I wanted to make it easy to swap components on this build. I already replaced the CPU block (as you can see in the pics) and it was sooo easy. I'm glad I went that route!
> 
> 
> 
> QD4s and fittings for days! That's the style I was going for, hence the "Industrial" part of its name.


How easy is it to use the QDC from the CPU to the top left port, same for the one from the CPU to GPU? It's almost like hardline so I wondered how using QDC's would be.


----------



## Soulpatch

Hequaqua said:


> I hear ya. I got some screws with little round nuts on some fans....love them. You can't mount all your fans that way, but the ones I can, I do. I used the 12 that came with the fans, but needed a few more. Not sure I could order the "exact" same ones.....so I just went to Lowe's, got some M4 30/35mm and the nuts. They work fine. Think it was less than 8.00 for 40 of them. I also picked up some small nylon spacers...like 1mm to keep vibration down. lol
> 
> As for fans.....I would have to build a box to figure CFM wouldn't I? I'm not that smart....lol I have prelim numbers in....will probably go back and re-test and maybe take the average of what I observe.
> 
> Here's what I have so far:
> 
> Fan Testing 2020



LOL a box would be a start, but that's easy enough to build. There are simple hand helds that you could put at the end (like a sound meter) that read air current and do the math for you. You'd need some kind of indicator just to pickup pressure or something anyway if you wanted to calculate it all the hard way. I'm an engineer, but definitely don't want to do all of those calculations if there's an easier way to do it lol We're not calculating vectored thrust through a venturi cone and comparing solid/liquid fuel sources lol 

If you want to do it the hard way: https://www.engineering.com/calculators/airflow.htm


Or the easy way lol https://www.amazon.com/cfm-meter/s?k=cfm+meter


I've wanted to do fans for awhile because like I said some of them pretty much outright lie...okay, technically it's stretching the truth quite a bit lol


----------



## MakubeX

Shawnb99 said:


> How easy is it to use the QDC from the CPU to the top left port, same for the one from the CPU to GPU? It's almost like hardline so I wondered how using QDC's would be.


It's quite easy as long as you have some way to move the connector away when you disconnect it (soft tubing or a rotational fitting). On the CPU, the inlet port (the bottom one) has a bit of soft tubing connecting the QDC to the block. That allows me to move that side back when I disconnect it. Plus the other side has two rotary 90 degrees extenders that can move around as well.


----------



## Soulpatch

Shawnb99 said:


> How easy is it to use the QDC from the CPU to the top left port, same for the one from the CPU to GPU? It's almost like hardline so I wondered how using QDC's would be.



Shouldn't be any real flow interruption/restriction depending upon open/close specs. The only issue i could really ever see is if they started to "drip" over time. Not while connected, but when you disconnect them, the water can sometimes corrode the center that compresses shut and it doesn't fully shut because of it. But that's been my experience with 2" or larger ones and while connected to vehicle coolant or city water. Maybe the smaller ones in a more chemically free environment hold up better over time. It's a good way to do it. I've often thought about adding one just for drain purposes. Or at least a butterfly on/off because the one that came with the bitspower distro plate isn't the easiest to use.


----------



## MakubeX

Soulpatch said:


> Shouldn't be any real flow interruption/restriction depending upon open/close specs. The only issue i could really ever see is if they started to "drip" over time. Not while connected, but when you disconnect them, the water can sometimes corrode the center that compresses shut and it doesn't fully shut because of it. But that's been my experience with 2" or larger ones and while connected to vehicle coolant or city water. Maybe the smaller ones in a more chemically free environment hold up better over time. It's a good way to do it. I've often thought about adding one just for drain purposes. Or at least a butterfly on/off because the one that came with the bitspower distro plate isn't the easiest to use.


The QD3s can a noticeable restriction. The QD4 barely do, though.


----------



## Soulpatch

MakubeX said:


> The QD3s can a noticeable restriction. The QD4 barely do, though.



I must have been looking at the WD4 then. So just assumed that nobody would design one that had flow restriction issues. Of course most people wouldn't think to use them in this particular fashion either. Since they are predominately designed for draining/filling ease of use.


----------



## IT Diva

Keep in mind that QD4's are G-3/8, so you'll need adapters, and only the Koolance ones fit.

Did I mention the 4's a bloody huge!


----------



## MakubeX

IT Diva said:


> Keep in mind that QD4's are G-3/8, so you'll need adapters, and only the Koolance ones fit.
> 
> 
> 
> Did I mention the 4's a bloody huge!


The adapters are cheap. I linked them above.


----------



## mouacyk

Should I be concerned about condensation from my GPU block idling 5C colder than ambient? I believe it's the large chunk of metal in the block that's causing this, but how is that even possible?


----------



## mouacyk

double post


----------



## MakubeX

mouacyk said:


> If my GPU is idling 5C below ambient, should I be concerned about condensation? How is this even possible?


If you're just using regular water cooling and fans inside your room to cool your GPU then it's physically not possible. It's probably a faulty sensor or faulty software.


----------



## nyk20z3

Almost done just need a few miscellaneous things then i can finish the tube runs!


----------



## Questors

Back at it. Taking down my CaseLabs Merlin ST10 with EATX for a Loque Ghost S1 Mk II mini-ITX build. 

Small Form Factor Ghost

CaseLabs ST10 will be getting a new build in 2021. One can't have too many water cooled PC projects.


----------



## J7SC

*A couple of weeks of updates and retro-builds...1 +3 = break time  
*
After updating my current main system ('Orca' below), I got into three retro builds with older parts I had for years and years - virus-induced retro-fever ? I even included the two out of two AIOs I own (one in continuous use since late 2012 which I finally opened, cleaned and refilled...more on those steps > here). That said, I usually focus on custom loops; still, repairing and modding an old 240mm TT AIO was kind of fun... Re. the attachments below, here is what you will find:

*1 - 'Orca'* (posted here before, but updated). That system has a TR 2950X @ 4.3 all-core, 64GB of DDR4 TridentZ 'Samsung-B', dual factory water-blocked Aorus Xtr 2080 Tis, a Heatkiller IV Pro TR Nickel block, some copper tubing, and QDs. It has dual w-cooling loops with a total of 5x XSPC RX 360 rads, 4x Swiftech D5 pumps, and 20x 120mm fans (including 9x GentleTyphoon). The case is a modded TT Core P5 

*2 - 'Red_tro'* is based on a Asus Rampage V Extreme, a 5960X @ 4.5, 32GB of DDR4 Trident Z 'Samsung-B', dual EVGA 980 Classified (air for now), an EK Supremacy block, 1x XSPC RX 360 rad and 1x Swiftech D5 pump along with 4x 120mm InWin and 2x 120mm TT fans. Case is a modded Antec

*3. 'RetroBlue'* is based on an Asus X79-E WS workstation board, a 4960X ES @ 4.73, 32GB of DDR3 TridentZ, and dual EVGA 980 Classified (air for now). The CPU is water-cooled by a Corsair H150i Pro with 3x ML120 fans. The case has InWin and GentleyTyphoon fans and is a never-used 'CM Stryker' that still had the protective foil on the window...seven years later  

*4. 'Porpoise'* is a companion system for the Orca system above and colour-modded to approximate it (including 'de-oranging' of the mobo, though that is not yet finished)...the mobo is a Gigabyte Z170 Force SOC, with a 4.8 GHz 6700K ES and 16GB of DDR4 TridentZ 'Samsung-B'. There are also dual 780 Ti Classifieds (air) and what I call a 'Bauhaus-style' open frame 'un_case'...

So far, the rebuilt and modded TT 240mm AIO has great temps (below 70C at 4.8 GHz for Cinebench)...this AIO had served me well over almost 8 years on various smaller-build 4-cores, at least until temps finally shot up after I moved things around recently. After taking care of that, I also changed the fans over to 2x Noctua 120mm and modded the mounting mechanism completely (now with a full metal back-plate etc). Most of the pics below are about this system. I hope you enjoy the pics.


----------



## Soulpatch

mouacyk said:


> Should I be concerned about condensation from my GPU block idling 5C colder than ambient? I believe it's the large chunk of metal in the block that's causing this, but how is that even possible?



Agree with MakubeX, there's no way it can be colder than ambient temp unless you are using an alternate source like liquid nitrogen or parking it in front of an A/C unit or something. The copper that's in the core will only cool down as much as the room ambient when not in use. As soon as you boot the machine the cpu is immediately putting out heat. Odds are good you have a bad sensor or the software isn't reading correctly. Try multiple programs and do a comparative. If they are all reading identical, then it's a faulty sensor.


----------



## mouacyk

It is relatively close to an AC vent, so that might be it. The load temperatures seem right though. I've used this GPU and block for 2 years plus, but the stable ambient temp and AC is new, so it's behaving a little differently. Thanks guys, I think being closer to the AC vent explains it.


----------



## InfoSeeker

mouacyk said:


> It is relatively close to an AC vent, so that might be it. The load temperatures seem right though. I've used this GPU and block for 2 years plus, but the stable ambient temp and AC is new, so it's behaving a little differently. Thanks guys, I think being closer to the AC vent explains it.



If you have a temp sensor off somewhere, and a direct discharge of cooled air going into the radiator, you are not reading 'ambient' temperature as far as the system is concerned.


----------



## Avacado

J7SC said:


> *A couple of weeks of updates and retro-builds...1 +3 = break time
> *
> After updating my current main system ('Orca' below), I got into three retro builds with older parts I had for years and years - virus-induced retro-fever ? I even included the two out of two AIOs I own (one in continuous use since late 2012 which I finally opened, cleaned and refilled...more on those steps > here). That said, I usually focus on custom loops; still, repairing and modding an old 240mm TT AIO was kind of fun... Re. the attachments below, here is what you will find:
> 
> *1 - 'Orca'* (posted here before, but updated). That system has a TR 2950X @ 4.3 all-core, 64GB of DDR4 TridentZ 'Samsung-B', dual factory water-blocked Aorus Xtr 2080 Tis, a Heatkiller IV Pro TR Nickel block, some copper tubing, and QDs. It has dual w-cooling loops with a total of 5x XSPC RX 360 rads, 4x Swiftech D5 pumps, and 20x 120mm fans (including 9x GentleTyphoon). The case is a modded TT Core P5
> 
> *2 - 'Red_tro'* is based on a Asus Rampage V Extreme, a 5960X @ 4.5, 32GB of DDR4 Trident Z 'Samsung-B', dual EVGA 980 Classified (air for now), an EK Supremacy block, 1x XSPC RX 360 rad and 1x Swiftech D5 pump along with 4x 120mm InWin and 2x 120mm TT fans. Case is a modded Antec
> 
> *3. 'RetroBlue'* is based on an Asus X79-E WS workstation board, a 4960X ES @ 4.73, 32GB of DDR3 TridentZ, and dual EVGA 980 Classified (air for now). The CPU is water-cooled by a Corsair H150i Pro with 3x ML120 fans. The case has InWin and GentleyTyphoon fans and is a never-used 'CM Stryker' that still had the protective foil on the window...seven years later
> 
> *4. 'Porpoise'* is a companion system for the Orca system above and colour-modded to approximate it (including 'de-oranging' of the mobo, though that is not yet finished)...the mobo is a Gigabyte Z170 Force SOC, with a 4.8 GHz 6700K ES and 16GB of DDR4 TridentZ 'Samsung-B'. There are also dual 780 Ti Classifieds (air) and what I call a 'Bauhaus-style' open frame 'un_case'...
> 
> So far, the rebuilt and modded TT 240mm AIO has great temps (below 70C at 4.8 GHz for Cinebench)...this AIO had served me well over almost 8 years on various smaller-build 4-cores, at least until temps finally shot up after I moved things around recently. After taking care of that, I also changed the fans over to 2x Noctua 120mm and modded the mounting mechanism completely (now with a full metal back-plate etc). Most of the pics below are about this system. I hope you enjoy the pics.



We are pack Orcas.


----------



## J7SC

Avacado said:


> We are pack Orcas.


 
... ...yeah, I guess I went from a pack rat to Orca pod (hopefully not the kind that hunts & eats porpoises)


----------



## Soulpatch

mouacyk said:


> It is relatively close to an AC vent, so that might be it. The load temperatures seem right though. I've used this GPU and block for 2 years plus, but the stable ambient temp and AC is new, so it's behaving a little differently. Thanks guys, I think being closer to the AC vent explains it.



It'd have to be sitting right on top of the vent and it pointing directly at the cpu core. Even then it shouldn't show that much of a difference while running. Are you looking at the cpu temp onboard sensor or a coolant thermocouple? If you are reading the temp from the cpu itself, there is something else wrong. Bad sensor or something like that. If you are reading the coolant temp at the block, then it is possible the a/c vent blowing on it could make a difference. If you are reading the coolant temp, that cold air being drawn through the radiator could account for the difference.


----------



## mouacyk

Soulpatch said:


> It'd have to be sitting right on top of the vent and it pointing directly at the cpu core. Even then it shouldn't show that much of a difference while running. Are you looking at the cpu temp onboard sensor or a coolant thermocouple? If you are reading the temp from the cpu itself, there is something else wrong. Bad sensor or something like that. If you are reading the coolant temp at the block, then it is possible the a/c vent blowing on it could make a difference. If you are reading the coolant temp, that cold air being drawn through the radiator could account for the difference.


It's the GPU Core temperature reading.


----------



## Mxj1

RGB?


----------



## taowulf

Mxj1 said:


> RGB?


I saw you over on r/watercooling, welcome.


----------



## Mxj1

taowulf said:


> I saw you over on r/watercooling, welcome.


Thanks. Getting started on reddit has been interesting for me... And this is the only forum that's still active.


----------



## taowulf

Mxj1 said:


> Thanks. Getting started on reddit has been interesting for me... And this is the only forum that's still active.


It's on life support, but still kicking.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Q9550 on water lol
EK evo water block fit on 775 socket with a hyper 212 evo back plate and magnitude mounting screws were perfect thread and length for the 212 evo mount 

Even picked up a cheap 980ti


----------



## Avacado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Q9550 on water lol
> EK evo water block fit on 775 socket with a hyper 212 evo back plate and magnitude mounting screws were perfect thread and length for the 212 evo mount
> 
> Even picked up a cheap 980ti


Love it, and I truly loved the 775 socket chips.


----------



## ThrashZone

Avacado said:


> Love it, and I truly loved the 775 socket chips.


Hi,
Yeah I have a new found appreciation for ek supremacy evo lol can't believe it didn't need and mods to fit or is it just that old of a design


----------



## RamSoft

Hequaqua said:


> I hear ya. I got some screws with little round nuts on some fans....love them. You can't mount all your fans that way, but the ones I can, I do. I used the 12 that came with the fans, but needed a few more. Not sure I could order the "exact" same ones.....so I just went to Lowe's, got some M4 30/35mm and the nuts. They work fine. Think it was less than 8.00 for 40 of them. I also picked up some small nylon spacers...like 1mm to keep vibration down. lol
> 
> As for fans.....I would have to build a box to figure CFM wouldn't I? I'm not that smart....lol I have prelim numbers in....will probably go back and re-test and maybe take the average of what I observe.
> 
> Here's what I have so far:
> 
> Fan Testing 2020


What about the noise generated when testing each fan?


----------



## Hequaqua

RamSoft said:


> What about the noise generated when testing each fan?


I could put a dB meter on my phone if I go through them again. I'm not sure how accurate that would be though. I can generalize and say, that most fans 1500rpm and lower aren't too loud. lol

Those high speed ones(Noctua/Evermax) are LOUD above 1500-2000rpm or so.


----------



## Banedox

Build I did almost 2 years ago, Havent posted it ever

Intel 6900k
1080 Strix
32GB 3200 Corsair LED White
Gigabyte x99 Designare EX V1
Lian Li 330W - I cut and drilled holes for this to work right xD


----------



## Avacado

I can dig it, love the retro keyboard.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Is that avocado green


----------



## Mxj1

Black coolant testing made a mess for me... so back to distilled water.


----------



## Mxj1

Black coolant testing made a mess for me... so back to distilled water.


----------



## Soulpatch

Mxj1 said:


> Black coolant testing made a mess for me... so back to distilled water.





That's exactly why I don't run colored coolant of any form. Last thing i need if there is a leak is stained carpet to top it all off. I stick with distilled for simplicity, cost and cleanup lol


----------



## dwolvin

I do like enough color that I can find leaks, but yeah- 90% distilled.


----------



## Soulpatch

Finally have everything assembled. Just need to finish cleaning up the cable routing in the back (have some nice adhesive cable organizers) and of course blow all the dust out of it. I have the hole cut on the outside skin for the three inlets but am waiting on the rubber to go around the inside. Which is why it's not there lol The ducts will ensure that it draws fresh air instead of pulling warm air from inside of the case (path of least resistance). With the skin on it raises the inside temp quite a bit because of the power supply, motherboard, etc. Those ducts really make a difference. Oh, here's a good question...I also posted the same one in the cooling section of the forum. But I'd like to hear all of your opinions and why.... 



For a push/pull rad system, is it better to have it pulling air out of the case, or fresh air into the case? If you are pulling air out, it's helping to draw fresh cooler air in. But you are pulling pre-warmed air through the rad, making it harder to bring temps down in the coolant. 



If you pull air from the outside, you are bringing in cooler air across the rad, but pre-heating the air inside the case and need a really good cross system in order to evacuate it so that it doesn't contribute to warming components. 



Now as an engineer I've always been of the frame of mind that pulling cool air across the rad is more important (vehicle application). But after watching videos of people testing the airflow in the 011 dynamic box I set it up to pull air from inside the box across the rad. Because they claimed the air flowed better. But I'm thinking that I'm going to reverse the fans to my initial line of though. It's more important for the coolant to avoid as much saturation as possible and pre-warmed air passing through won't help. So what are your thoughts???


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Well that's thinking outside the box :thumb:


----------



## computertechy

Soulpatch said:


> Finally have everything assembled. Just need to finish cleaning up the cable routing in the back (have some nice adhesive cable organizers) and of course blow all the dust out of it. I have the hole cut on the outside skin for the three inlets but am waiting on the rubber to go around the inside. Which is why it's not there lol The ducts will ensure that it draws fresh air instead of pulling warm air from inside of the case (path of least resistance). With the skin on it raises the inside temp quite a bit because of the power supply, motherboard, etc. Those ducts really make a difference. Oh, here's a good question...I also posted the same one in the cooling section of the forum. But I'd like to hear all of your opinions and why....
> 
> 
> 
> For a push/pull rad system, is it better to have it pulling air out of the case, or fresh air into the case? If you are pulling air out, it's helping to draw fresh cooler air in. But you are pulling pre-warmed air through the rad, making it harder to bring temps down in the coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> If you pull air from the outside, you are bringing in cooler air across the rad, but pre-heating the air inside the case and need a really good cross system in order to evacuate it so that it doesn't contribute to warming components.
> 
> 
> 
> Now as an engineer I've always been of the frame of mind that pulling cool air across the rad is more important (vehicle application). But after watching videos of people testing the airflow in the 011 dynamic box I set it up to pull air from inside the box across the rad. Because they claimed the air flowed better. But I'm thinking that I'm going to reverse the fans to my initial line of though. It's more important for the coolant to avoid as much saturation as possible and pre-warmed air passing through won't help. So what are your thoughts???


Surely the temperature difference will be a couple degrees at max as long as the airflow rate is high enough.

I draw in in from 2 x 360 rads PP and evacuate on a single 360 PP + 120mm single, the rad runs at a slightly higher rpm in order to compensate for this. I know it's effective as my m.2 drives get very toasty so have had to ghetto install a 120mm fan over the m.2's due to air starvation.
I made sure to dual loop and put the least load on the rear rad which is the GPU.

I use to run with the rear feeding in and it just didn't sit right with me, that warm air has to go somewhere and the turbulence inside the case made it more noisy....but i didn't have air starvation issues and the temp was negligible.


----------



## Soulpatch

computertechy said:


> Surely the temperature difference will be a couple degrees at max as long as the airflow rate is high enough.
> 
> I draw in in from 2 x 360 rads PP and evacuate on a single 360 PP + 120mm single, the rad runs at a slightly higher rpm in order to compensate for this. I know it's effective as my m.2 drives get very toasty so have had to ghetto install a 120mm fan over the m.2's due to air starvation.
> I made sure to dual loop and put the least load on the rear rad which is the GPU.
> 
> I use to run with the rear feeding in and it just didn't sit right with me, that warm air has to go somewhere and the turbulence inside the case made it more noisy....but i didn't have air starvation issues and the temp was negligible.



Flipped all the fans so the push/pull on the rad is moving air outside to inside. The rear are pulling to the outside. Honestly, it's made a huge difference on the movement of air inside the case. Let alone the 2C that it's dropped from my original temp. Last time I listen to an "expert" over my own educated judgement...my own fault there. I lit some incense and let the air carry it through...huge difference. It's even keeping the NVME drives cooler with the change. They weren't starved for air before, but like I said, everything was being heated with pre-warmed air when it was pulling from the side fans. Didn't change any fan/pump speeds and at idle its 2C cooler. Even gaming it hasn't moved past 36C while under full load for an hour. Definitely going to keep this config and maybe get some better fans for the back so they draw a bit better. 



See what you mean about the NVMe drives. They always seem to be blocked by something and the heat sinks they use aren't the greatest. I've thought about installing a floor fan in the case on the right to sit under the gpu. It would push air over the NVMe locations. But so far the temp on those has dropped as well. So maybe I've gotten lucky enough and should just leave it alone. But you've got a good point about rigging something up. Quite often the component designers work within their own designs and focus on that. But sometimes they need to look at the bigger picture. Motherboards are one of those. By the time the GPU, ram, cables, etc. are all installed that little heat sink for the nvme doesn't do much when the airflow to it has been almost blocked. 



Anyway, just happy the airflow is much more effective now and it's not something that will sit in the back of my head poking at the engineer in me lol


----------



## computertechy

Soulpatch said:


> Flipped all the fans so the push/pull on the rad is moving air outside to inside. The rear are pulling to the outside. Honestly, it's made a huge difference on the movement of air inside the case. Let alone the 2C that it's dropped from my original temp. Last time I listen to an "expert" over my own educated judgement...my own fault there. I lit some incense and let the air carry it through...huge difference. It's even keeping the NVME drives cooler with the change. They weren't starved for air before, but like I said, everything was being heated with pre-warmed air when it was pulling from the side fans. Didn't change any fan/pump speeds and at idle its 2C cooler. Even gaming it hasn't moved past 36C while under full load for an hour. Definitely going to keep this config and maybe get some better fans for the back so they draw a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> See what you mean about the NVMe drives. They always seem to be blocked by something and the heat sinks they use aren't the greatest. I've thought about installing a floor fan in the case on the right to sit under the gpu. It would push air over the NVMe locations. But so far the temp on those has dropped as well. So maybe I've gotten lucky enough and should just leave it alone. But you've got a good point about rigging something up. Quite often the component designers work within their own designs and focus on that. But sometimes they need to look at the bigger picture. Motherboards are one of those. By the time the GPU, ram, cables, etc. are all installed that little heat sink for the nvme doesn't do much when the airflow to it has been almost blocked.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, just happy the airflow is much more effective now and it's not something that will sit in the back of my head poking at the engineer in me lol


I'm glad you're happy with it, that's the main thing!

I have always just gone with my gut feeling, decent flow with air/water, clean coolant, good rads and having block orientations correct the performance will still be excellent especially in today's cases built for water cooling like yours!


----------



## raggazam

Here goes my little one, very happy with the performance and the silence that I have now

Define 7 XL, Maximus XII, 10700K Delid & Lapping 5.1 Ghz 1.21 vcore
32 Gb 3600 Cl16, 2080 ti & HX1000I
2 EK-CoolStream CE 420, 3 NB Eloop P14PS & 3 Artic P14
Heatkiller's blocks and reservoir


----------



## raggazam

Here goes my little one, very happy with the performance and the silence that I have now

Define 7 XL, Maximus XII, 10700K Delid & Lapping 5.1 Ghz 1.21 vcore
32 Gb 3600 Cl16, 2080 ti & HX1000I
2 EK-CoolStream CE 420, 3 NB Eloop P14PS & 3 Artic P14
Heatkiller's blocks and reservoir


----------



## kertsz

TOP


----------



## taowulf

raggazam said:


> Here goes my little one, very happy with the performance and the silence that I have now


Beautiful build and I love that the Heatkiller block is front and center. They make every other water block look like cheap crap.


----------



## Pepillo

I told you in N3D and I'm telling you here, beautiful.


----------



## Pepillo

Duplicate


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah that's nice got that heatkiller 4 pro copper rotated too got lucky some boards can't do that without mods :thumb:


----------



## Soulpatch

Excellent build, the waterblock looks great, but really like the res mounted to the back wall. Very industrial in look, but with that modern touch to it. Compliments the fittings really well. How was it de-lidding? I've thought about it, but as an engineer can't bring myself to do it knowing the potential for screwing it up is so high. Especially when you drop so much money on the processor to begin with. Guess that's partly the reason I went with the I9 and ate the cost. There were other processors that had the potential to reach 5ghz but in most cases they needed to be lidded. All in all great build. Can you remove the lower shroud and show what it looks like at the bottom? I always get curious to see how people ran their drain lines, etc. Gives me new ideas on potentially doing a better option on mine.


----------



## DarkUltra

Heres my 10900K Asus ROG Maximus XII Formula (finicky on 4x8GB ram speed and timings). I use non fray sleeving around the tubing thought that looks nice don't have to see the transparent tubing turn yellow hehe


----------



## XtachiX

This is my first custom loop done. it's not the best but i'm a proud of it. Some bends aren't that great. being that it's my first time i'm happy with it


----------



## Shawnb99

DarkUltra said:


> Heres my 10900K Asus ROG Maximus XII Formula (finicky on 4x8GB ram speed and timings). I use non fray sleeving around the tubing thought that looks nice don't have to see the transparent tubing turn yellow hehe


Very nice. Glad I'm not the only one who's thought of sleeving their tubing


----------



## sli_shroom

raggazam said:


> Here goes my little one, very happy with the performance and the silence that I have now
> 
> Define 7 XL, Maximus XII, 10700K Delid & Lapping 5.1 Ghz 1.21 vcore
> 32 Gb 3600 Cl16, 2080 ti & HX1000I
> 2 EK-CoolStream CE 420, 3 NB Eloop P14PS & 3 Artic P14
> Heatkiller's blocks and reservoir



very nice...which flow meter is that?

thanks


----------



## nyk20z3

Finally finished up the Lian Li Dynamic XL build.


----------



## Avacado

nyk20z3 said:


> Finally finished up the Lian Li Dynamic XL build.


Looks good, I have all the components to make the same conversion at some point. How is the flow? Do you notice any temp decrease from mounting the inlet on the GPU block backwards? Or is the top the inlet?


----------



## nyk20z3

Avacado said:


> Looks good, I have all the components to make the same conversion at some point. How is the flow? Do you notice any temp decrease from mounting the inlet on the GPU block backwards? Or is the top the inlet?


The manual doesn't even tell you what the inlet and outlet is lol

My temps are good, i have a 10900k and 2080 super strix advanced. After an hour of playing Metro Exodus my temps are around 55C on the gpu and cpu and i game at 3440X1440!

Fans are set to around 800rpm, rads are a Black Ice GTR on the bottom and a Black Ice GTS up top. Everything is set to exhaust for aesthetic reasons and to be honest i am satisfied so far, i am sure the temps can be a little better but i can always turn the fan speed up and drop a few C.


----------



## Mxj1

uhhhh, hello?


----------



## Mxj1

Finally ordered the cable I needed to connect the farbwerk.

...optimus block looks copper in the photos, but its nicke.:h34r-smi


----------



## Avacado

Mxj1 said:


> Finally ordered the cable I needed to connect the farbwerk.
> 
> ...optimus block looks copper in the photos, but its nicke.:h34r-smi


Looks good. I had my third OCTO crap out last night when doing the final part of my 3rd rig. Heard a short, saw the plume of smoke and smelled it. I ordered a Farber as well only to not need it.


----------



## Mxj1

Avacado said:


> Looks good. I had my third OCTO crap out last night when doing the final part of my 3rd rig. Heard a short, saw the plume of smoke and smelled it. I ordered a Farber as well only to not need it.



That sucks. Sounds like you need some more magic smoke.

Is AC going to take care of it for you?


----------



## Avacado

Mxj1 said:


> That sucks. Sounds like you need some more magic smoke.
> 
> Is AC going to take care of it for you?


I submitted a supoort ticket with them and an RMA with PPCS. Sucks because I need it and it's going to take a hot minute to get a new one.


----------



## Mxj1

Avacado said:


> I submitted a supoort ticket with them and an RMA with PPCS. Sucks because I need it and it's going to take a hot minute to get a new one.


They had them in stock the last time I checked. Buy another, and take store credit for the replacement?


----------



## shotround

Avacado said:


> I submitted a supoort ticket with them and an RMA with PPCS. Sucks because I need it and it's going to take a hot minute to get a new one.


is it just your luck? or are they dying as fast as the commander pros ive tried? any pics worth sharing of the failed board? im (was) thinking of getting an octo in the near future....


----------



## Avacado

shotround said:


> is it just your luck? or are they dying as fast as the commander pros ive tried? any pics worth sharing of the failed board? im (was) thinking of getting an octo in the near future....


No, definitely just my luck. I have 2 other OCTO's performing in other rigs flawlessly. Nothing compares to the Aqua suite software, it is a MUST for any WC build. No pictures to note, already boxed and taped for an RMA.


----------



## Avacado

Pic of sig rig OCTO at work, I know I need to do some cable tidying.


----------



## Soulpatch

nyk20z3 said:


> Finally finished up the Lian Li Dynamic XL build.



Looks good, what reservoir is that? Looks much cleaner than the bitspower.


----------



## Avacado

Soulpatch said:


> Looks good, what reservoir is that? Looks much cleaner than the bitspower.


That would be the EK Quantum Reflection. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-reflection-pc-o11d-xl-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi


----------



## Rainmaker91

I'm looking in to getting some Quick disconnect fittings for my build, are Koolance QDC fittings still concidered the best? and if so which kind? they have a plethora of different ones and I could never seem to understand the preactical difference other than rated pressure.


----------



## ThrashZone

Rainmaker91 said:


> I'm looking in to getting some Quick disconnect fittings for my build, are Koolance QDC fittings still concidered the best? and if so which kind? they have a plethora of different ones and I could never seem to understand the preactical difference other than rated pressure.


https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1753330-quick-disconnects.html


----------



## Rainmaker91

Thanks, I'll take a look


----------



## Rainmaker91

So nothing seems to have changed at all, Koolance is still at the top and QDC3 and 4 are the way to go. Any reason to choose the H series above the regular ones? Its always good to have them rated for ltos of pressure and all, but I don't think it's really needed in a normal loop.


----------



## ruffhi

Another use for a CPU air cooler ... bomb prop on Agents of Shield.


----------



## dwolvin

Ha!


----------



## raggazam

sli_shroom said:


> very nice...which flow meter is that?
> 
> thanks


Thanks mate, from EKWB flow rgb


----------



## outofmyheadyo

taowulf said:


> Beautiful build and I love that the Heatkiller block is front and center. They make every other water block look like cheap crap.


Cant really bash on ALL the other blocks like this, have u seen optimus blocks, how about aquacomputer ?


----------



## taowulf

outofmyheadyo said:


> Cant really bash on ALL the other blocks like this, have u seen optimus blocks, how about aquacomputer ?


 I was referring to graphics card blocks. I actually ordered an Optimus CPU block. Heatkiller GPU full cover blocks are the sexiest.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

still you said all other blocks look like cheap crap, i would say optomus and even some aquacomputer blocks are just as nice if not better, that random bashing helps nobody.


----------



## Shawnb99

taowulf said:


> I was referring to graphics card blocks. I actually ordered an Optimus CPU block. Heatkiller GPU full cover blocks are the sexiest.



Optimus GPU blocks are so sexy they have to be kept secluded no ones ever seen one and lived to tell the tale. They are like the Helen of Troy of water blocks.


----------



## kertsz




----------



## Soulpatch

Avacado said:


> That would be the EK Quantum Reflection. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-reflection-pc-o11d-xl-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi



That is definitely much nicer than the bitspower. Not complaining about the one I have, but yours is much cleaner looking when it comes to layout, etc. I'm not partial to how they hid the pump, but the rest of it looks amazing. Plus the built in flow indicator isn't bad either. Saves from having to buy and plumb one into the system somewhere. I also appreciate the external fill/drain points. I got on bitspower about that and explained that as an engineer they are located in the WORST possible location. If you are going to include a pressure relief/manual plunger style plug for the top, why would you EVER locate it on the inside of the case? Where in order to actually use it, the user needs to remove the glass. Same with the drain, it should be at the lowest point (which they did), but again, it's located on the inside. It'd be nice to drain/fill from the outside. So much so that I was asking around to see if anybody had taken one of the touchaqua's apart because I wanted to know the wall thickness to possibly drill/tap feed/drain holes on the outside plate. But the company "didn't have that information" and nobody on the forum has apparently taken one apart for cleaning/maintenance. So if it comes to the point where it needs to be cleaned, then guess I'll measure it then.


----------



## J7SC

...just watch this vid below...that solution looks interesting, especially for small form factors...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Thanks for that video. I watched it earlier after you linked it in another thread. Cool idea for block pump and res all in one in that tiny solution!


----------



## Soulpatch

J7SC said:


> ...just watch this vid below...that solution looks interesting, especially for small form factors...
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBIWgKmwr68



It's always struck me as hilarious that after researching, taking time, finally ordering components and building a nice machine... that somebody would come out with a new piece of hardware/tech that you would have bought in the beginning lol That's a brilliant piece of hardware considering everything it's capable of. Even the fill port. I wouldn't fill it the way he did in the video, but you could easily install a bulkhead fitting at the top of your case and run a line up to it. Easy fill without having to worry about spilling anything on the hardware. All in all, it's brilliant, especially if it's compatible with other pump designs. Thanks for sharing it.


----------



## mouacyk

I wonder how heat resistant this thing is. Last time I had a pump block setup with Swiftech H220, when both 4770K (4.5GHz) and 980TI (1493MHz) were loaded, the pump would occasionally stall causing everything to over heat. That setup had 120 + 240 rads. Going to guess that this block is not meant for high overclock usage. Be interested to see some tests.


----------



## J7SC

Thanks  I hope they also bring out a TR version, perhaps w/ a D5 instead of DDC. What I like about this overall approach is that you can still add other components (such as an extra, matching pump, GPU blocks) while having some fundamental space savings. I just finished a few retro-builds, including a X99 / 5960x which currently has a mini-res, D5 etc and is used for older 1080p stuff. I will likely try out that Barrow all-in-one kit in that build which is in a smaller ATX case.


----------



## dwolvin

It's got a decent amount of pressure potential, so as long as the heatplate if good it should be able to handle a decent amount of heat. Not Heatkiller / Optimus, but alongside the second rung for sure...


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I found this bit of oddware when going through my watercooling box. A tiny 92mm Hardware Labs radiator and 92mm PWM fan.


----------



## Avacado

0451 said:


> I found this bit of oddware when going through my watercooling box. A tiny 92mm Hardware Labs radiator and 92mm PWM fan.


You better buy a Rasberry Pi and put it under water with that thing.


----------



## MakubeX

0451 said:


> I found this bit of oddware when going through my watercooling box. A tiny 92mm Hardware Labs radiator and 92mm PWM fan.


That's fin adorable.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Avacado said:


> 0451 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I found this bit of oddware when going through my watercooling box. A tiny 92mm Hardware Labs radiator and 92mm PWM fan.
> 
> 
> 
> You better buy a Rasberry Pi and put it under water with that thing.
Click to expand...

This exists so I’m tempted to build something tiny with ridiculous overkill cooling.

https://youtu.be/SBIWgKmwr68


----------



## Mxj1

Spent some time this weekend getting the leds hooked up to the farbwerk. Pretty happy so far.


----------



## mouacyk

Mxj1 said:


> Spent some time this weekend getting the leds hooked up to the farbwerk. Pretty happy so far.


Who needs RGB right? Looks so clean and industrial, great work!


----------



## Bart

mouacyk said:


> Who needs RGB right? Looks so clean and industrial, great work!


I second that! Always nice to see a O11 properly filled with triple rads and not messed up with an over-priced distro plate!


----------



## MakubeX

Small update. Added another quick disconnect at the pump outlet and temp sensors (one after the pump and one after the CPU).


----------



## mouacyk

^^ QDC awesomeness. They end up costing more than everything else in the loop I bet.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah not much soft tubing is there


----------



## alienalvan

Wickedly gorgeous!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

MakubeX said:


> Small update. Added another quick disconnect at the pump outlet and temp sensors (one after the pump and one after the CPU).


Are these koolance QD3-s ? Im lookin to buy a few sets, not sure what to go for, i tried the barrow ones some years ago but they were so restrictive.


----------



## MakubeX

Thanks for the feedback, all. The QDs certainly added quite a bit to the expense but, hopefully I can reuse them for years to come.


outofmyheadyo said:


> Are these koolance QD3-s ? Im lookin to buy a few sets, not sure what to go for, i tried the barrow ones some years ago but they were so restrictive.


These are QD4s. I opted for those in spite of the added cost and 3/8" to G1/4" conversation requirement to minimize restriction. These barely make a dent in restriction.


----------



## Soulpatch

Finally broke down and bought a new air compressor...yay tools! So was able to get the skin cut/trimmed. The new fans came in (scythe kaze flex - 89cfm) and they are installed under the ducts. They are pulling air out of the case while the push/pull rad is pulling cold air into the case through the radiator. Believe me, they aren't lying. At 2k rpm they absolutely move air. They are 3 pin but I have them on a powered bridge tied into the cpu connector on the motherboard and they are currently running at 1700. Still moving big air, but much quieter lol. Ran OCCT for 2 hours and the coolant never broke 36C and the CPU didn't pass 64C (except under a load spike). Ignore the dust, I caught my cat sitting on top of the case next to the fans... No idea why she is fascinated with them, but when they were reversed her favorite was to sit with her face in the wind. Anyway, all that's left is for the acrylic disks and glue to arrive. Debating on adding some fill/drain ports to the front face of the distro-plate.


----------



## Soulpatch

And ya, that is a scuff mark...it'll buff out later. Was tired and dealing with a cranky 8 year old at the time lol


----------



## Mxj1

I added an nvme waterblock and took a couple night shots. I'm really happy with how the lighting came out on this case.


----------



## Soulpatch

Mxj1 said:


> I added an nvme waterblock and took a couple night shots. I'm really happy with how the lighting came out on this case.
> 
> View attachment 2458486
> View attachment 2458487
> View attachment 2458488


Absolutely LOVE the industrial look. The lighting is perfect, adds just enough without overpowering the look of the hardware. The look is clean and very refined. Good job on the build.


----------



## nyk20z3




----------



## Bad5ector

Those 90s make me happy.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mxj1 said:


> I added an nvme waterblock and took a couple night shots. I'm really happy with how the lighting came out on this case.
> 
> View attachment 2458486
> View attachment 2458487
> View attachment 2458488


Hi,
Nice one


----------



## raggazam

kertsz said:


> TOP


Gracias 



Pepillo said:


> I told you in N3D and I'm telling you here, beautiful.


Thanks Mate 


Soulpatch said:


> Excellent build, the waterblock looks great, but really like the res mounted to the back wall. Very industrial in look, but with that modern touch to it. Compliments the fittings really well. How was it de-lidding? I've thought about it, but as an engineer can't bring myself to do it knowing the potential for screwing it up is so high. Especially when you drop so much money on the processor to begin with. Guess that's partly the reason I went with the I9 and ate the cost. There were other processors that had the potential to reach 5ghz but in most cases they needed to be lidded. All in all great build. Can you remove the lower shroud and show what it looks like at the bottom? I always get curious to see how people ran their drain lines, etc. Gives me new ideas on potentially doing a better option on mine.


Thanks sir



sli_shroom said:


> very nice...which flow meter is that?
> 
> thanks


EKWB FlowMeter 

New update...


----------



## Sir Beregond

raggazam said:


> New update...


Really becoming convinced a Fractal case is going to be my next case. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## dwolvin

Whoa, that's really nice!


----------



## CptAsian

raggazam said:


> Gracias
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Mate
> 
> 
> Thanks sir
> 
> 
> 
> EKWB FlowMeter
> 
> New update...


Looks great! I love the cabling and tubing organization on the back especially.


----------



## PCSarge

Little Update, My old PC finally got a well deserved cleanup and update, though the specs are lopsided as hell.it IS ITX, so clean Watercooling is a challenge....









Specs:
3900XT W/ Alphacool Block (forgot the exact name)
32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3400mhz 17-17-17-17-38
Radeon 5700XT W/ EKWB Vector RGB Series Block
Corsair SF 750W Platinum
Adata XPG 8200 Pro NVME SSD (Windows)
WD 1TB SATA M.2 SSD (Downloads/Documents/Music/Pictures/Videos)
Crucial MX500 2TB SSD (Games)
Cruicial MX300 1TB SSD (Extra Storage)
100mm Bitspower Multiport Tube Res
EK Coolstream SE 240 W/ Push/Pull
Liang DDC PWM W/ X-TOP
NZXT H210i


----------



## Avacado

PCSarge said:


> Little Update, My old PC finally got a well deserved cleanup and update, though the specs are lopsided as hell.it IS ITX, so clean Watercooling is a challenge....
> View attachment 2459948
> 
> 
> Specs:
> 3900XT W/ Alphacool Block (forgot the exact name)
> 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3400mhz 17-17-17-17-38
> Radeon 5700XT W/ EKWB Vector RGB Series Block
> Corsair SF 750W Platinum
> Adata XPG 8200 Pro NVME SSD (Windows)
> WD 1TB SATA M.2 SSD (Downloads/Documents/Music/Pictures/Videos)
> Crucial MX500 2TB SSD (Games)
> Cruicial MX300 1TB SSD (Extra Storage)
> 100mm Bitspower Multiport Tube Res
> EK Coolstream SE 240 W/ Push/Pull
> Liang DDC PWM W/ X-TOP
> NZXT H210i


It does look clean for ITX. Is that inlet/outlet on your GPU reversed?


----------



## dwolvin

Usually doesn't matter on GPU- they are low restriction and the last test I saw the difference was a degree or so (and that was within the prob's error range.


----------



## PCSarge

Avacado said:


> It does look clean for ITX. Is that inlet/outlet on your GPU reversed?


actually no, the loop runs Res > Pump > Rad > CPU > GPU > Res. i've actually never run reverse flow on a GPU block yet, and that CPU block is single directional, inlet on the left, outlet on the right


----------



## sproggit

OK, first post (of pictures)... so be gentle... Let's do system specs, pics, some design/approach notes, then credits...

Case: Thermaltake WP-200 - double-width, with plinth
PSU: Leadex Superflower 2000W
MB: Asus RoG VI Extreme Omega
CPU: Intel i9 7920XE @4.4GHz (I bought a part guaranteed by OverClockers UK to run to 4.7GHz and I may crank it a bit in time; starting gently for now)...
CPU Block: HeatKiller IV Pro Copper
Thermal Compound: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut High Performance
GPU: SLI (nvLink) Pair of 2080Ti's with EKWB water blocks
RAM: Team Group XTreem "8-Pack Edition" 64Gb DDR4 PC4-28800C17 3600MHz Quad Channel
Storage: 2 x 2Tb Samsung Pro M.2 drives
Creative Sound Blaster ZxR - although when I find a USB-connectable sound card with full 7.1 support that also runs with Linux, I'll remove this and reclaim the 4 PCIe Express lanes...
Pumps: 3 x AquaComputer D5Next
Radiators: 5 x EKWB CE560s
Fans: 20 x Noctua NFP-14 PWM
Controller: AquaComputer Aquero 6XT
Coolant: Mayhems "Clear", pre-Mixed
1 x 4K Optical / 1 x BR-RW Drive / 1 x Media Bay (SD etc) / 1 x Akasa 4-bay 2.5" bare drive caddy unit

Pics... (and sorry in advance, taken with crummy iPhone)






















































As you can see from the pictures, they were taken towards the end of the "tidying", "cleaning" and "dressing" part of the process...

Here's a quick breakdown of the system setup:-
The CPU is running at 4.4GHz with a dedicated cooling circuit. An Aquero D5Next pump connects to the Heatkiller IV Pro, which in turn connects to a single EKWB CE560 radiator mounted on the side panel of the case opposite from the mainboard chamber. You can see the radiator "hiding" the pump/reservoir assemblies. The CPU pump is the one in the middle, with the soft tubing connected. Using the soft tubing for this radiator means that I can easily open the side panel [and even remove the radiator] without having to drain the circuit. Good for maintenance and cleaning.

The first GPU is connected to an Aquero D5Next pump, then to the EKWB water block, then to the roof of the case where the coolant passes through a pair of CE560s in series before returning to the reservoir.

The second GPU is connected to the last Aquero D5Next. Then - as the images of the "second chamber" show, hardline tubing connects the pump down in to the plinth. There, a length of soft tubing runs across the plinth before the coolant circuit runs up a short length of vertical hardline before going through the GPU waterblock, back down to the plinth to traverse another pair of CE560 radiators fitted to the plinth before coming back up to the "pump chamber" and then up to the top of the reservoir on the left of the above image.

All 5 radiators have EKWB temperature sensors on their output ports: these are connected up with the 4 GPU temp sensors going to the Aquero 6XT and the 5th going to a temperature sensor on a (hidden) Aquacomputer Quadro. I had to use the Quado because a 6XT can only support 2 pumps and I wanted to run 3... So what I decided to do in the end was split the CPU cooling to the Quadro and have it self-contained there, while using the Aquero to handle the 2 GPUs... Hopefully fairly obviously, the temperature sensors form the input to controlling the fan speed of the Noctua fans on each radiator, so those fans run only when and as fast as they need to.


OK, on to design and general experiences. This is my second water-cooled PC, but the first that I've designed and (partially built - with help) myself. I got an _incredible_ amount of good advice from Mike at Mayhems UK, who was an absolute treasure trove of information and advice. If you're reading this, Mike, *thank you*. I also got a lot of help from Simon at RapidPCs in Christchurch, Dorset, UK, without whom this build would not have seen the light of day...

Lessons learned.
The case, whilst it assembled flawlessly, had maybe three or four main issues:
1. It claims to support 560mm radiators all over the place, but in reality I had to cut metal out of the plinth to get 2 GPU radiators for the second GPU to fit in the plinth. Utterly stupid, since the same size radiators fit in the same orientation in the main part of the case.
2. There's no "cable management", just "holes with grommets". More on this later.
3. The case comes with something like 8 5.25" drive bays on the front... and connecting brackets for just 3 devices. How stupid is that? I contacted Thermaltake in the US who were disinterested and not prepared to check to see if they carried spares. A bit disconcerting that they don't use common parts for internal mounts, too. You would think their cases would be modular, but you'd be wrong.

I came up with two slightly odd ideas with the case that on balance I think did help. First, the bottom panel of the main chamber has a sheet of cut aluminium to form the base. I then vinyl-wrapped it with matt black wrap to match the case. I had a few issues with the wrap - especially where I had made screw holes in the sheet for mounting purposes. I'm confident that if I had a bit more practice this would look 100% flawless [instead of merely pretty good] and I will use this approach again. Using sheet metal and mounting this securely meant the case remained rigid.

Secondly, I had another piece of cut metal on which the 3 pump/reservoir units are mounted. If you look at that image, above, you'll see that the cables for the pumps disappear through grommeted holes in the metal to a central, vertical void that the sheet forms between the original central divide provided by Thermaltake and this new piece of metal. We were able to use this central void to run all our cabling, and even to mount the Quadro and a USB hub that we had to add in order to have enough internal USB points to connect everything...


Performance:
I'm still getting to grips with the Aquasuite software to tune down the fans, but when gaming and sitting 2 feet from the PC you don't notice them. Fans don't start until temps go above 35 centigrade [thanks to per-radiator sensor detection I can control the fans on a per-radiator basis] and the highest temps I've seen on the GPU's after solid gaming is 40 centigrade in a room with ambient temperatures between 25 and 28 centigrade.

The CPU runs significantly warmer, as it happens: it idles at around 44-45 centigrade and under load it can get as high as 56 or 57 centigrade [but then I'm not running any of my fans more than 75% at the moment]. Unigen Heaven Benchmark kit reports 264fps in to a 4K monitor [for benchmarking - I use a triple-screen setup in normal configuration], with all the bells and whistles turned on, which I've decided is "adequate".

Basically: mind-blowing...


Conclusions
1. It's taken a long time to get here - I bought the parts in Jan/Feb last year and took delivery of the completed machine 2 weeks ago. Life got in the way... But it has been worth it!

2. If you have the space for [and can find] a big case, then you will discover the flexibility it offers to allow you to do a thoughtful design is really quite something. It's a lot easier to work in a spacious case than to wrestle with something small.

3. When it comes to quiet, effective cooling, you can't beat surface area.

4. Using sheet metal and covering it with vinyl wrap sounded bonkers at the time, but I'm _so_ glad I did. I'm sure that "Declassified Systems" does works of art with perspex... but my case is _stronger_ than when I started, not weaker.

5. On balance, going the route of over-specifying everything and having more capacity than needed was a good approach - it means that nothing in the build is particularly stressed and that even when gaming full-on, the hardware is sort of loafing along quietly enjoying things.

6. Little things can make a big difference. For example, when we fitted the aluminium sheet that holds the pump/reservoir units, I specifically designed that so that we used pairs of "motherboard stand-off" fixings (one connected to another to make an extra-long stand-off) and this created the void that is used for cabling. This one almost "silly" idea means that cabling is pretty much invisible - and that really helps to keep down the internal clutter and give a clean look.

I also note that the Aquasuite software allows up to 4 different profiles to be configured and stored in the controller, with any one active. This allows me to have a noise-tuned setup for, say, general work or gaming, but then to have a "heat purge" profile [all fans at 100%] that I switch to for 5 minutes before I switch off. [I'm a great believer in the idea that if you let a machine cool thorough before you shut it down, the components will last longer].

You can't get the WP-200 case any more - and large cases like this are pretty much impossible to find... But I just happen to have another one, still flat-packed, and I'm already looking forward to what I can do with it when the time comes...

In particular, a huge debt of thanks goes to:-

Mike at Mayhems for his invaluable advice and enthusiasm,
Sven at Aquacomputer, who put up with a load of stupid questions from me... but most especially to
Mike at RapidPCs, who stepped in to help with hardline work when Simon and I had about given up on that approach... and
Simon at RapidPCs, who I asked to help with the more delicate stuff - like getting the CPU and block done right, but who ended up doing so much more.


----------



## mattxx88

sproggit said:


> OK, first post (of pictures)... so be gentle... Let's do system specs, pics, some design/approach notes, then credits...
> 
> Case: Thermaltake WP-200 - double-width, with plinth
> PSU: Leadex Superflower 2000W
> MB: Asus RoG VI Extreme Omega
> CPU: Intel i9 7920XE @4.4GHz (I bought a part guaranteed by OverClockers UK to run to 4.7GHz and I may crank it a bit in time; starting gently for now)...
> CPU Block: HeatKiller IV Pro Copper
> Thermal Compound: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut High Performance
> GPU: SLI (nvLink) Pair of 2080Ti's with EKWB water blocks
> RAM: Team Group XTreem "8-Pack Edition" 64Gb DDR4 PC4-28800C17 3600MHz Quad Channel
> Storage: 2 x 2Tb Samsung Pro M.2 drives
> Creative Sound Blaster ZxR - although when I find a USB-connectable sound card with full 7.1 support that also runs with Linux, I'll remove this and reclaim the 4 PCIe Express lanes...
> Pumps: 3 x AquaComputer D5Next
> Radiators: 5 x EKWB CE560s
> Fans: 20 x Noctua NFP-14 PWM
> Controller: AquaComputer Aquero 6XT
> 1 x 4K Optical / 1 x BR-RW Drive / 1 x Media Bay (SD etc) / 1 x Akasa 4-bay 2.5" bare drive caddy unit
> 
> Pics... (and sorry in advance, taken with crummy iPhone)
> 
> View attachment 2459990
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2459991
> 
> 
> View attachment 2459992
> 
> 
> View attachment 2459993
> 
> 
> View attachment 2459992
> View attachment 2459993
> 
> 
> As you can see from the pictures, they were taken towards the end of the "tidying", "cleaning" and "dressing" part of the process...
> 
> Here's a quick breakdown of the system setup:-
> The CPU is running at 4.4GHz with a dedicated cooling circuit. An Aquero D5Next pump connects to the Heatkiller IV Pro, which in turn connects to a single EKWB CE560 radiator mounted on the side panel of the case opposite from the mainboard chamber. You can see the radiator "hiding" the pump/reservoir assemblies. The CPU pump is the one in the middle, with the soft tubing connected. Using the soft tubing for this radiator means that I can easily open the side panel [and even remove the radiator] without having to drain the circuit. Good for maintenance and cleaning.
> 
> The first GPU is connected to an Aquero D5Next pump, then to the EKWB water block, then to the roof of the case where the coolant passes through a pair of CE560s in series before returning to the reservoir.
> 
> The second GPU is connected to the last Aquero D5Next. Then - as the images of the "second chamber" show, hardline tubing connects the pump down in to the plinth. There, a length of soft tubing runs across the plinth before the coolant circuit runs up a short length of vertical hardline before going through the GPU waterblock, back down to the plinth to traverse the case and then up to the top of the reservoir on the left of the above image.
> 
> All 5 radiators have EKWB temperature sensors on their output puts: these are connected up with the 4 GPU temp sensors going to the Aquero 6XT and the 5th going to a temperature sensor on a (hidden) Aquacomputer Quadro. I had to use the Quado because a 6XT can only support 2 pumps and I wanted to run 3... So what I decided to do in the end was split the CPU cooling to the Quadro and have it self-contained there, while using the Aquero to handle the 2 GPUs...
> 
> 
> OK, on to design and general experiences. This is my second water-cooled PC, but the first that I've designed and (partially built - with help) myself. I got an _incredible_ amount of good advice from Mike at Mayhems UK, who was an absolute treasure trove of information and advice. If you're reading this, Mike, *thank you*. I also got a lot of help from Simon at RapidPCs in Christchurch, Dorset, UK, without whom this build would not have seen the light of day...
> 
> Lessons learned.
> The case, whilst it assembled flawless, had maybe three or four main issues:
> 1. It claims to support 560mm radiators all over the place, but in reality I had to cut metal out of the plinth to get 2 GPU radiators for the second GPU to fit in the plinth. Utterly stupid, since the same size radiators fit in the same orientation in the main part of the case.
> 2. There's no "cable management", just "holes with grommets". More on this later.
> 3. The case comes with something like 8 5.25" drive bays on the front... and connecting brackets for just 3 devices. How stupid is that? I contacted Thermaltake in the US who were disinterested and not prepared to check to see if they carried spares. A bit disconcerting that they don't use common parts for internal mounts, too. You would think their cases would be modular, but you'd be wrong.
> 
> I came up with two slightly odd ideas with the case that on balance I think did help. First, the bottom panel of the main chamber has a sheet of cut aluminium to form the base. I then vinyl-wrapped it with matt black wrap to match the case. I had a few issues with the wrap - especially where I had made screw holes in the sheet for mounting purposes. I'm confident that if I had a bit more practice this would look 100% flawless [instead of merely pretty good] and I will use this approach again. Using sheet metal and mounting this securely meant the case remained rigid.
> 
> Secondly, I had another piece of cut metal on which the 3 pump/reservoir units are mounted. If you look at that image, above, you'll see that the cables for the pumps disappear through grommeted holes in the metal to a central, vertical void that the sheet forms between the original central divide provided by Thermaltake and this new piece of metal. We were able to use this central void to run all our cabling, and even to mount the Quadro and a USB hub that we had to add in order to have enough internal USB points to connect everything...
> 
> 
> Performance:
> I'm still getting to grips with the Aquasuite software to tune down the fans, but when gaming and sitting 2 feet from the PC you don't notice them. Fans don't start until temps go above 35 centigrade [thanks to per-radiator sensor detection I can control the fans on a per-radiator basis] and the highest temps I've seen on the GPU's after solid gaming is 40 centigrade in a room with ambient temperatures between 25 and 28 centigrade.
> 
> The CPU runs significantly warmer, as it happens: it idles at around 44-45 centigrade and under load it can get as high as 56 or 57 centigrade [but then I'm not running any of my fans more than 75% at the moment]. Unigen Heaven Benchmark kit reports 264fps with all the bells and whistles turned on, which I've decided is "adequate".
> 
> Basically: mind-blowing...
> 
> 
> Conclusions
> 1. It's taken a long time to get here - I bought the parts in Jan/Feb last year and took delivery of the completed machine 2 weeks ago. Life got in the way... But it has been worth it!
> 
> 2. If you have the space for [and can find] a big case, then you will discover the flexibility it offers to allow you to do a thoughtful design is really quite something. It's a lot easier to work in a room case than to wrestle with something small.
> 
> 3. When it comes to quiet, effective cooling, you can't beat surface area.
> 
> 4. Using sheet metal and covering it with vinyl wrap sounded bonkers at the time, but I'm _so_ glad I did. I'm sure that "Declassified Systems" does works of art with perspex... but my case is _stronger_ than when I started, not weaker.
> 
> 5. On balance, going the route of over-specifying everything and having more capacity than needed was a good approach - it means that nothing in the build is particularly stressed and that even when gaming full-on, the hardware is sort of loafing along quietly enjoying things.
> 
> You can't get the WP-200 case any more - and large cases like this are pretty much impossible to find... But I just happen to have another one, still flat-packed, and I'm already looking forward to what I can do with it when the time comes...
> 
> Thanks
> To Mike at Mayhems for his invaluable advice and enthusiasm, to Sven at Aquacomputer, who put up with a load of stupid questions from me, but most especially to Mike at RapidPCs, who stepped in to help with hardline work, and Simon at RapidPCs, who I asked to help with the more delicate stuff - like getting the CPU and block done right, but who ended up doing so much more.


it's amazing! well done


----------



## sproggit

mattxx88 said:


> it's amazing! well done


Thank you. Slow and steady wins, I guess...

There's still so much more to learn. With hindsight I should probably have started with something considerably smaller and maybe kicked out a couple of simpler machines before attempting something this ambitious. But as I hope this shows, it _can_ be done, if you're willing to be patient and careful.

When I look at it now, I see a bunch of places where I think I could have done something better or different. For example, today, by far the noisiest thing in the case is the PSU. By far. But this case has _four_ PSU mounting points. So maybe I could have fitted a pair of quieter PSU's and then strapped them together? (I've seen it done; not sure if it is a recommended practice or not). But if I could find a pair of PSU's that are silent below say 45% draw, then that would significantly cut down the noise-at-idle.

I also regret not fitting flow sensors to the circuits... The Aquero and Quadro could handle the inputs - and it would help me to better understand the flow rates of the pumps for given rpm, which would help me tune each circuit to balance cooling performance and noise. When I looked at other builds I only saw flow sensors as gaudy little clear plastic assemblies and dismissively thought they were there for show and not for function. In hindsight, that was wrong...

But we learn, right? The aim is to make every build just that little bit better than the one before...

Oh, and just in case it isn't abundantly clear - I really don't care for fancy lighting, LED strips, or making the machine "gaudy". For me, this build had to be robust, reliable, clean and - hopefully - simple to maintain. Personally I'm thrilled with the result, although to be fair I do understand that this pared-back aesthetic won't please everyone.


----------



## sproggit

A couple of extra images to illustrate some of the points from my initial post... Let's start with a couple of shots of one of the added aluminium base plates that I fitted to the floor of each of the main chambers:-










Above you see a sheet of vinyl-coated aluminium, just as the work is finished. Sorry, not too sharp as pictures go... 










And this is what it looks like from the rear, with the holes pre-drilled for the pass-through fittings that support the second GPU. After this second image was taken, I was able to use a craft scalpel to carefully remove the circular pieces of vinyl. Edges of the holes are adequately covered by the thickness of the pass-through fitting, so you see a clean surface, not a cut edge of wrap. 










Above you see a butchered "case floor" - this is the metal sheet that divides the original top part of the W200 chassis from the P200 plinth. You can see it is pre-cut for 8 fans, but also that the metal needed to be removed in order to allow for the GPU#2 coolant pipes to run through. I returned this to the case [for rigidity] and then used the sheet aluminium to cover the rather unsightly cutting... 










Lastly, here is a shot looking across the width of the plinth, to the top front corner of one of the sides. In the bottom right of the image you can see one of the EKWB CE560 radiators, which I have already mounted to the quick-release sub-chassis provided with the case. However, if you look carefully at the edited parts of the image, you can see that the curve of the chassis frame intrudes into space that the squared-off corner of the radiator wants to occupy. 

It was a bit nerve-wracking [as in I'd never done anything like this before] but I bought a Dremel and used it to carefully cut away the gentle curve of the chassis frame, using the drilled hole that you can see marked in the top-left of the diagram to form a new corner for that part of the chassis. The rounded curve helps prevent tearing of the metal, and to confirm it retained structural integrity I was able to stand on the top of the plinth and [with the wheels attached] scoot it round the workshop like a skateboard. 

Considering these were the biggest issues we hit during the build, I'm counting myself incredibly lucky.


----------



## Avacado

My son fixed up his rig last night. I was proud of him.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Looks nice


----------



## Fluxmaven

Looks good. Only thing that sticks out as odd to me is the red sleeved cable... I would have gone with white to match the theme.


----------



## Shawnb99

Fluxmaven said:


> Looks good. Only thing that sticks out as odd to me is the red sleeved cable... I would have gone with white to match the theme.


Maybe it's to match the G.Skill sticker. Otherwise very nice. Lose the sleeved cabled and sticker though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not bad for the kids first time, if he wants to use the red cables - maybe add some Mayhems non-stain red dye into the white fluid to tie it together. I do get it if he's just using what he has available - also for all we know he has another color schemed set of cables on the way. I second the ditching of the GSkill sticker (I plaster my stickers on a section of my desk or another board).


----------



## Avacado

I know, I know. I offered clear fluid, but he wanted white and a red/black theme on top. _Shrugs. He leaves this weekend to go back to his mothers following a prolonged summer stay with me due to COVID, i'll change them then _


----------



## Barefooter

DarthBaggins said:


> Not bad for the kids first time, if he wants to use the red cables - *maybe add some Mayhems non-stain red dye into the white fluid to tie it together.* I do get it if he's just using what he has available - also for all we know he has another color schemed set of cables on the way. I second the ditching of the GSkill sticker (I plaster my stickers on a section of my desk or another board).


It will just turn pink if you do this, no matter how much dye you add... trust me I have tried that.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Swapped from my Air 540 case which was getting loud and rattling into a Lian Li O-11 Dynamic. Ran out of black tubing in the rebuild, Micro center only had white in my size. It will work for the next several months till I build a new one and try hard line maybe and get some 360 rads. I did find a second unused 16GB kit of RAM to throw in that does match the tubing though, so guess it will work. I had ripped it out of a build I did for someone else in favor of low profile RAM for their air cooler. Also, my EK Supremacy EVO was shot as the first rebuild produced near 100C temps on the CPU. Micro Center to the rescue with a cheap Corsair block for now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Barefooter said:


> It will just turn pink if you do this, no matter how much dye you add... trust me I have tried that.


Yeah, but could end up turning into a funny prank to pull on his son at the same time


----------



## ThrashZone

Sir Beregond said:


> Swapped from my Air 540 case which was getting loud and rattling into a Lian Li O-11 Dynamic. Ran out of black tubing in the rebuild, Micro center only had white in my size. It will work for the next several months till I build a new one and try hard line maybe and get some 360 rads. I did find a second unused 16GB kit of RAM to throw in that does match the tubing though, so guess it will work. I had ripped it out of a build I did for someone else in favor of low profile RAM for their air cooler. Also, my EK Supremacy EVO was shot as the first rebuild produced near 100C temps on the CPU. Micro Center to the rescue with a cheap Corsair block for now.


Hi,
Looks nice
I really don't know what's going on with the lower gpu ports though looks like you're using both and not just the outlet ?
If using both seems not a lot of fluid would be going through the gpu water block because fluid would go the least restrictive route which is straight through the upper and directly below ports :/


----------



## CptAsian

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks nice
> I really don't know what's going on with the lower gpu ports though looks like you're using both and not just the outlet ?
> If using both seems not a lot of fluid would be going through the gpu water block because fluid would go the least restrictive route which is straight through the upper and directly below ports :/
> View attachment 2460473


Looks like it's capped to me, maybe the Bitspower fitting is a drain port or something?


----------



## ThrashZone

CptAsian said:


> Looks like it's capped to me, maybe the Bitspower fitting is a drain port or something?


Hi,
Yeah that makes sense just has it rotated to where we can't see the other plus in the 90 fitting


----------



## Sir Beregond

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks nice
> I really don't know what's going on with the lower gpu ports though looks like you're using both and not just the outlet ?
> If using both seems not a lot of fluid would be going through the gpu water block because fluid would go the least restrictive route which is straight through the upper and directly below ports :/
> View attachment 2460473


Oh, it's just a drain port rotated out of the way on a rotary.

As of today just working out some air bubbles. This Corsair block sure likes to hold small ones in.










Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I need some help with my setup. Have always used Bay Res with integrated D5. I recently switched to Cylinder Res. The dam thing is too loud and vibrates like crazy. What do you guys do for mounting them? I left it running for 10 hours and there are no air bubbles.


----------



## Bart

I think the issue is how you have it mounted, no offense. You should have two screws on each side of that mount and bolt that down more firmly. D5's have a "hum" to them, and they do vibrate a little, but I think if you were to lock that down a little better, you'd be fine.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Bart said:


> I think the issue is how you have it mounted, no offense. You should have two screws on each side of that mount and bolt that down more firmly. D5's have a "hum" to them, and they do vibrate a little, but I think if you were to lock that down a little better, you'd be fine.



I left the res free from the case mount and no more vibrations. The issue is that anything that comes to contact with it will vibrate the entire case. I probably have to record a video of how bad it is.


----------



## Bart

ZealotKi11er said:


> I left the res free from the case mount and no more vibrations. The issue is that anything that comes to contact with it will vibrate the entire case. I probably have to record a video of how bad it is.


Hmm, I'd take it apart then, maybe see is something isn't tightened enough. It sounds like something isn't coupled together tightly. I run mine with a D5 vario at full blast and it doesn't shake the case. But I also have mine bolted directly onto a radiator, not a fan.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I took it apart. I tried another D5 pump and the first test without fully mounting it is that I am getting familiar noises. I think my first pump might be in its last legs. Been in operation for 13 years.


----------



## dwolvin

Ha! That could be it- they are good, but well past a decade is a good amount of service.


----------



## Gilles3000

If the new pump doesn't solve it, you might want to add a shoggy sandwich(or other vibration damper) in between the mount and the fan. Its possible there some resonating vibration caused by the pump and fan being connected together.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Now I just hear the pump hum which I will solve by lowering the speed.


----------



## garyd9

A pic of my reservoir when the water/air delta is >9C:


----------



## dwolvin

Not my style, but pretty cool!


----------



## InfoSeeker

garyd9 said:


> A pic of my reservoir when the water/air delta is >9C:


Which RGB strip is that, and which controller?


----------



## garyd9

InfoSeeker said:


> Which RGB strip is that, and which controller?


custom code (some taken from WLED, some taken from FastLED) on an ESP32 dev board driving 10mm of dense WS2812B's (14 LED's in the 10mm strip.) The LED animation is based on the "fire2012" animation in fastled.

The res is frosted acrylic which provides plenty of diffusion, and the strip is attached to a little custom bracket I 3D printed.


----------



## Mxj1

garyd9 said:


> A pic of my reservoir when the water/air delta is >9C:


That's a cool thought. I tried something similar with mine and aquasuite... then decided I liked it better if I just removed the LED ring all together.


----------



## shoti02

New Project...but dunno which diameter to take in the case...should be brass, silver shiny with phanteks glacier fittings.....










The Rad if all Equipment is mounted


----------



## ThrashZone

shoti02 said:


> New Project...but dunno which diameter to take in the case...should be brass, silver shiny with phanteks glacier fittings.....
> 
> View attachment 2461678
> 
> 
> The Rad if all Equipment is mounted
> 
> View attachment 2461679


Hi,
One or two fans supposed to do something on that ?


----------



## shoti02

no....the max is 24 fans. i have 4 of those...


----------



## dwolvin

Four fan sticks inside? That's going to have some strong wind at the exit port (top only, or bottom also?)!


----------



## TeslaHUN

dwolvin said:


> Four fan sticks inside? That's going to have some strong wind at the exit port (top only, or bottom also?)!





shoti02 said:


> no....the max is 24 fans. i have 4 of those...
> 
> View attachment 2461681


Looks pretty ineffective 4rad very close to each other ,fans working against each other .
I bet 3 rad with intake fans , and 4th side without rad ,but populated with exhaust fans +1 on top would produce better results.
.


----------



## prznar1

Do we have EK guy here?


----------



## DarthBaggins

There should be, last I remember there was an EK rep that lurked the forums.


----------



## InfoSeeker

shoti02 said:


> The Rad if all Equipment is mounted
> 
> View attachment 2461679


I had a 360 with copper fins and had the side panels/feet black oxidized.

Couple of suggestions for you:

get some rubber pads under those feet, or they will scar the hell out of your desk/floor.
the side panels are screwed in from top and bottom. Take the bottom screws and screw them in from the inside, so they poke out the bottom of the panel, you can then mount them by simply stabbing the bottom screws into the base holes, and screwing the top screws in from the top. This precludes you having to remove the feet whenever you want to open a side panel. I checked with Shoggy, he confirmed the side panels provide NO structural integrity to the radiator.


----------



## ZealotKi11er




----------



## dwolvin

Nice- new rig?


----------



## jamie1073

Here is my system. I do need to redo that front tube as it is a hair off.


----------



## ssgwright

Nice setup!


----------



## PCSarge

i will be in the process of a revamp of my sig rig on friday, switching from barbs to compression fittings, installing a heatkiller tube 100mm res (the current bitspower plastic one has a hairline crack on threads and is 10 years old) and the addition of and exterior rear 120mm rad.

and i may get some flak for this choice but, i am going from distilled/biocide/ blue dye to primochill vue sky blue SX after the rebuild and a sysprep flushing. new pictures will most likely be posted saturday afternoon (sysprep needs at least 12 hours of runtime to clean everything out)


----------



## jamie1073

ssgwright said:


> Nice setup!


Thanks.


----------



## dwolvin

PCSarge said:


> i will be in the process of a revamp of my sig rig on friday, switching from barbs to compression fittings, installing a heatkiller tube 100mm res (the current bitspower plastic one has a hairline crack on threads and is 10 years old) and the addition of and exterior rear 120mm rad.
> 
> and i may get some flak for this choice but, i am going from distilled/biocide/ blue dye to primochill vue sky blue SX after the rebuild and a sysprep flushing. new pictures will most likely be posted saturday afternoon (sysprep needs at least 12 hours of runtime to clean everything out)


I'll be interesting to see how it works out for you, best of luck!


----------



## Fluxmaven

PCSarge said:


> i may get some flak for this choice but, i am going from distilled/biocide/ blue dye to primochill vue sky blue SX after the rebuild and a sysprep flushing.


You won't catch any flak, but your blocks might catch a bunch of crap.


----------



## PCSarge

Fluxmaven said:


> You won't catch any flak, but your blocks might catch a bunch of crap.


i rotate fluids every 5-6 months anyways, and i do a flush everytime i do. and i run sysprep for at least 12 hours before putting in new stuff.


----------



## jvillaveces

PCSarge said:


> i rotate fluids every 5-6 months anyways, and i do a flush everytime i do. and i run sysprep for at least 12 hours before putting in new stuff.


I strongly advice you to do some research before putting Vue in your system. I was an early adopter, and after it deposited white goo all over my loop, I had to disassemble and clean my blocks, scrub my res, and discard and rebend all my tubing. I could never clean my radiators off it, so I ended up replacing them. A very expensive and unpleasant experience, and by no means an anomaly, OCN was on fire with similar reports.


----------



## PCSarge

jvillaveces said:


> I strongly advice you to do some research before putting Vue in your system. I was an early adopter, and after it deposited white goo all over my loop, I had to disassemble and clean my blocks, scrub my res, and discard and rebend all my tubing. I could never clean my radiators off it, so I ended up replacing them. A very expensive and unpleasant experience, and by no means an anomaly, OCN was on fire with similar reports.


 you do know it has been revised since it first came out right? twice now from what i can recall. the new version just hit stores not long ago.


----------



## ziocomposite

Finally got a 3080FE via Best Buy and was able to snag a Bykski via their US store. Print is wrong on the backplate as it says 3090 however it does result in a lower pricepoint! That being said, the 3080 is absolutely gorgeous. While taking off the shroud was honestly thinking about not doing it but pushed forward. The size comparison of the Bykski block is unbelievable even in person. Not only is it so much shorter, it essentially transforms to a single slot GPU. The 3080 Shroud will be kept as a trophy, she's that good. Performance-wise, it's what you expect.

Summer here so currently have ambient temps of 28-33 constantly, winter can't come soon enough. Undervolted, the 3080 FE would run @ 1850Mhz/900v/+800mem 65-75(Air) and 45-55(Water).

Planned this build/upgrade specifically for Cyberpunk 2077 and also to keep for a good 4-5 years. Originally had a 980ti/4790 however she began dying December and was able to get a great deal for a 5700xt/waterblock combo hence beginning my watercooling journey. 5700xt is going to my sister via mini itx build as a graduation surprise.

Current Specs


Meshify C (popular lately lol)
Ryzen 3800x(5900x last missing piece)
x570 Taichi Mobo
3080 FE (Bykski Block)
2TB NVME 3.0 Inland Premium
1TB SSD Crucial (Gaming)
Hardware Labs GTS 280 & 240 with Arctic P14/12 fans. 3x 12x15 Noctua in front behind front mesh (Foam removed)
120mm Phantex SP Fan in front of RAM placed on top of GPU/92MM Scythe Fan pointed at the x570 chipset. Due to running the Intake/Exhaust fans low RPM, the inside stays warm. These help witht the components
Barrow fittings with EKWB Pump/Res Combo
EVGA 850 G2
Tried to take some cyber punk inspired photos lol



















































Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I just bought a 2080 Ti founders late last year, and finished my build in March, so it'll be a while before I get another card... Besides, I'm thinking I can probably wait it out until a Titan version comes out.


----------



## PCSarge

that long awaited compression fitting and coolant/res update

also spent about an hour and a half cable managing the backside of my mobo. what a PITA but its done.

bear in mind the loop is still bleeding a bit.

EDIT: i know the pictures dont do the VUE justice.


----------



## Mxj1

I did some more tinkering yesterday and swapped my acrylic tubes out for a combination of metal and zmt. I need to get a good picture of the front side, but I'm happy with how the rear turned out.


----------



## justanoldman

Mxj1 said:


> I did some more tinkering yesterday and swapped my acrylic tubes out for a combination of metal and zmt. I need to get a good picture of the front side, but I'm happy with how the rear turned out.


Dang, that's how nice the back looks? I wish the front of my rig looked that nice. If I posted a pic of the back of mine, I think I would get kicked out of here lol.


----------



## Bart

Rebuilt my home theatre PC and did some sanding on the tube for a frosted look.


----------



## davcc22

bringing back the oldschool cobbled together on no budget look!


----------



## mouacyk

davcc22 said:


> View attachment 2465173
> bringing back the oldschool cobbled together on no budget look!


Long as it cools.


----------



## Mxj1

First try at itx. Specs aren't amazing. most pieces were leftovers.


----------



## Avacado

Mxj1 said:


> First try at itx. Specs aren't amazing. most pieces were leftovers.


Better than most, clean and precise.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mxj1 said:


> First try at itx. Specs aren't amazing. most pieces were leftovers.


What case is that?


----------



## badtaylorx

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks nice
> I really don't know what's going on with the lower gpu ports though looks like you're using both and not just the outlet ?
> If using both seems not a lot of fluid would be going through the gpu water block because fluid would go the least restrictive route which is straight through the upper and directly below ports :/
> View attachment 2460473


that's not how that works. It DOES cut the flow in half though.


----------



## ThrashZone

badtaylorx said:


> that's not how that works. It DOES cut the flow in half though.


HI,
Dude already said it was a drain I just couldn't tell it was a drain.


----------



## Mxj1

DarthBaggins said:


> What case is that?


Steck - base + stack bundle with a second top hat.

I built that for my wife... since the kids took her pc over.

I'm going to be swapping some of my stuff into a new WinterOne.









Home | Winter Design







www.winterdesign.co





SFF and 2 x 280mm radiator support.


----------



## Avacado

Dope.


----------



## bungusbeefcake

Finally finished my build... Well mostly. Was thinking of painting the front cover in black surround, then red and gold. What do you think??

It's a phanteks eclipse p400s case, so I had to modify the front panel for 2 reasons, airflow was crap and I mounted 3x120mm fans directly behind it so I could mount the rad on the inside 240mm rad).

So the specs:
Phanteks eclipse P400s Case
Superflower Leader III 850W 80+ Gold PSU
6 X 120mm UpHere argb fans and controller
MSI Meg z490 Unify mobo
Intel i9-10850k CPU
64GB Corsair Vengeance pro 3200mhz RAM
Nvidia RTX 3080 Founders Edition GPU
CPU cooling loop has: Barrow Ark CPU block, Barrow T-Virus reservoir, Barrow D5 pump Barrow flow meter lower left, Barrow 240mm X 30mm radiator, Bykski digital flow meter, then a mix between Bykski and barrow push fittings, enhanced fittings and compression fittings, with PETG tubing. Running mayhems x1 blood red coolant.

And data is in there too!!


----------



## jamie1073

Latest shot after I changed from clear coolant to blue.


----------



## Avacado

jamie1073 said:


> Latest shot after I changed from clear coolant to blue.
> View attachment 2467264
> View attachment 2467265
> View attachment 2467266
> View attachment 2467267


Looks good, I have that case sitting on the sidelines, it sucks for watercooling.


----------



## ziocomposite

Just waiting for Cyberpunk.









Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Sir Beregond

badtaylorx said:


> that's not how that works. It DOES cut the flow in half though.





ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> Dude already said it was a drain I just couldn't tell it was a drain.


Assuming you are talking about mine. It's a drain swiveled out of the way. Didn't have anywhere else to put it with the fittings I had on hand.


----------



## jamie1073

Avacado said:


> Looks good, I have that case sitting on the sidelines, it sucks for watercooling.


Yeah with a 360 in front and the pump/res combo there really is no space for longer vid cards. If I want a 3080 I would need to watercool it right off the get go as it will not fit. Pretty much the same for the 3070's except the actual NVIDIA FE's. I have found the new AMD ones will fit if they follow the ref design though. The front glass also does restrict a little but not enough to bother with removing it. I get 1C cooler water temps if I remove it.


----------



## Hawkjoss

I think my rig finally got to it's final form. 
-Changed the Vardar fans to Arctic P12 push/pull on bottom rad and to Darkside GT on the top rad
-EK Velocity was replaced by Optimus Foundation
-Asus GTX 1070 Strix with RTX 3070 FE
-added Aquacomputer Quadro t control the fans 
-bonus: Ducky creator's mecha now serves as a keyboard 

Very happy with the performance. Set up the fan curves based on water T - when at idle and lower than 29C fans spin at 600ish RPM, 29C<T<31C at 900RPM, and at 1200RPM when the water reached 31C

So at idle, I sit with Delta T around 2-3C. After about 3hrs of Assasins creed Valhalla, the water max was 31C, 5C delta with ambient. Max core temp when gaming was 50C and average of 40C.


----------



## Bart

Hawkjoss: nice, good call on the fans. Love those GTs!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got a question, any of you guys using Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity rads?

Thinking about using the ones with built in pumps to make a couple of AIO's because I cant be bothered with a full in the case custom loop again (not convenient) but wanted to know what people thought of them.


----------



## dwolvin

I think they are cool, and look to be good quality, but have never touched them myself.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Got a question, any of you guys using Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity rads?
> 
> Thinking about using the ones with built in pumps to make a couple of AIO's because I cant be bothered with a full in the case custom loop again (not convenient) but wanted to know what people thought of them.











Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity AMS Copper 360 Radiator


This is #16 in my series of triple radiators the highly requested and hard to find Aquacomputers AMS Copper 360. While the automotive industry and most watercooling radiators utilize a very well r…




martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com









Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System | Pure Overclock


Innovative modular radiator system with killer performance.




www.pureoverclock.com


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

InfoSeeker said:


> Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity AMS Copper 360 Radiator
> 
> 
> This is #16 in my series of triple radiators the highly requested and hard to find Aquacomputers AMS Copper 360. While the automotive industry and most watercooling radiators utilize a very well r…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System | Pure Overclock
> 
> 
> Innovative modular radiator system with killer performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.pureoverclock.com


Yeah I did see those, the pureoc one is really detailed which I like. I also like to know user experience and if anyone has had issues real world.


----------



## dwolvin

Martin's is a go to because of the thoroughness of his testing. Quick tests are not really good on a loop with any decent amount of liquid in them- it takes a while to stabilize. That said- any decent radiator will work if you install a decent amount of area per component you are cooling, and if a pump built in is helpful- go for it!

I'm actually just surprised there aren't more rads with built -in pumps these days.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

dwolvin said:


> I'm actually just surprised there aren't more rads with built -in pumps these days.


That's the thing that surprised me as well. I get pre built AIOs are easier but they only work for CPUs (mostly) but seeing GPUs respond much better to water than CPUs it's weird that it isn't more common to see rad / pump combos to do custom AIO's. Then again I guess Asetek have controlled the AIO market for years and the few attempts at making rad / pump combos by EK haven't gone down well.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Yeah I did see those, the pureoc one is really detailed which I like. I also like to know user experience and if anyone has had issues real world.


I cobbled together three 420s with the two outside rads having the pump module, This was a little over a year ago, with no issues to date.


----------



## Blackstare

Hello everyone, I have finally completed my build.

Specs:
Ryzen 9 3950x
32GB Patriot Steel Viper 4400mhz @ 3200Mhz Cl14 to avoid infinity fabric divider issues. 
Asus Pro WS x570-ACE motherboard
EVGA RTX 3080 XC3
Phanteks P600s
Corsair 750m

Cooling:
1x EK Coolstream CE280
1x XSPC EX280
EK XRes 140 Evo
Bykski cpu-ray-mk cpu block
EK Quantum Vector XC3 gpu block
EK ZMT Tubbing
Assorted chinese barrow and bykski fittings


----------



## Avacado

Blackstare said:


> Hello everyone, I have finally completed my build.
> 
> Specs:
> Ryzen 9 3950x
> 32GB Patriot Steel Viper 4400mhz @ 3200Mhz Cl14 to avoid infinity fabric divider issues.
> Asus Pro WS x570-ACE motherboard
> EVGA RTX 3080 XC3
> Phanteks P600s
> Corsair 750m
> 
> Cooling:
> 1x EK Coolstream CE280
> 1x XSPC EX280
> EK XRes 140 Evo
> Bykski cpu-ray-mk cpu block
> EK Quantum Vector XC3 gpu block
> EK ZMT Tubbing
> Assorted chinese barrow and bykski fittings
> 
> View attachment 2469549
> 
> 
> View attachment 2469550
> 
> 
> View attachment 2469551
> 
> 
> View attachment 2469552
> 
> 
> View attachment 2469553


Very clean, looks good. How is the flow with using the outlet as inlet on the GPU block?


----------



## Blackstare

Avacado said:


> Very clean, looks good. How is the flow with using the outlet as inlet on the GPU block?


tbh I had no idea that I was using a reverse flow 😅


----------



## dwolvin

EK's blog indicates you will not be off more than a degree or so on the GPU backwards... Nice rig!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
EK says there's nothing wrong with their nickel plating or cryocrap fuel either lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've had zero issues w/ their Cryofuel over the past two years running it w/out changing it out, but again I went with clear fluid rather than color - if I want color I go w/ Mayhems. Also zero issues w/ their Nickle plated blocks over the past 4 years - now BitsPower blocks can go DIAF!


----------



## mouacyk

Blackstare said:


> tbh I had no idea that I was using a reverse flow 😅


I did the same on my 980 TI for nearly a year and it still hovered around 40C, but it may have been the cause of occasional pump stalling because of the restricted flow and heat soak. Not really sure why EK's block still use a jet plate, while almost no one else does. The restriction caused by the plate is intentional, but then it dictates an optimal flow direction.


----------



## dwolvin

Ha! Touche...


----------



## mattxx88

hi guys, there's a way to make reservoirs plexy's brilliant again? i switched from ek mystic back to aquacomputer double protect clear 
but i notcied my reservoir is a bit opaque, no more clear as a glass


----------



## Avacado

mattxx88 said:


> hi guys, there's a way to make reservoirs plexy's brilliant again? i switched from ek mystic back to aquacomputer double protect clear
> but i notcied my reservoir is a bit opaque, no more clear as a glass


Any ole acrylic polish will do the job. Just google/Amazon search.


----------



## mattxx88

Avacado said:


> Any ole acrylic polish will do the job. Just google/Amazon search.


thanks
i also read about peroxide hydrogen, anyone ever tried it?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Dawn ultra/ water/ soft cloth and elbow grease usually works.
Not using color fluids works best though.


----------



## Sir Beregond

DarthBaggins said:


> I've had zero issues w/ their Cryofuel over the past two years running it w/out changing it out, but again I went with clear fluid rather than color - if I want color I go w/ Mayhems. Also zero issues w/ their Nickle plated blocks over the past 4 years - now BitsPower blocks can go DIAF!


My gold plated (not sure what it actually is) EK Supremacy EVO totally trashed and my nickel plated GTX 980 Strix block the plating is also trashed though not as badly.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
My 1080ti nickel plated blocks still looks okay just a little wonky under the jet plate and a small place between the in/ out ports


----------



## Blackstare

Fixed the flow  honestly i found a 1c diff on idle but it could be ambient temp or margin of error. Kinda dig the tube going under the pcie cables though.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So whats some good long term fluid? Planning on running my custom AIO loop for at least 3 years and really don't want to mess around changing the fluid every 6 - 12 months. I know AIO's use a Propylene Glycol mix with distilled water (among other things) but I haven't seen many people trying it.

The loop will be strictly copper rads, nickel blocks and neoprene tubing, might go full copper rad / block but I did want to liquid metal my GPU AIO, just waiting on more people to run 6800 XT underwater to see if liquid metal is really needed.


----------



## Blackstare

Aussiejuggalo said:


> So whats some good long term fluid? Planning on running my custom AIO loop for at least 3 years and really don't want to mess around changing the fluid every 6 - 12 months. I know AIO's use a Propylene Glycol mix with distilled water (among other things) but I haven't seen many people trying it.
> 
> The loop will be strictly copper rads, nickel blocks and neoprene tubing, might go full copper rad / block but I did want to liquid metal my GPU AIO, just waiting on more people to run 6800 XT underwater to see if liquid metal is really needed.


I ran my first WC build for many many years a long time ago with just distilled water, pt nuke and about 5% car coolant. I never changed the fluid until I sold the whole PC.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Blackstare said:


> I ran my first WC build for many many years a long time ago with just distilled water, pt nuke and about 5% car coolant. I never changed the fluid until I sold the whole PC.


I ran distilled and Liquid Utopia, ended up with algae build up in about a year, very annoying.

Was thinking of getting a clear premix but after seeing some people's experiences I'm not so sure.


----------



## woppy101

Here is my setup


----------



## sultanofswing

Here is my Daily Turd. Need to change some things around but just gonna run it like this now.
EVGA X299 Dark
[email protected] all core
2080ti Kingpin with a Bykski Block
32gb [email protected]
2 Singularity Reservoirs
HeatKiller CPU Block
Aquaero 6xt
MPS 400 and a High Flow USB Sensor
4 Water temp sensors.
4 Airflow temp sensors.
GPU Loop is 3 360mm Radiators
CPU Loop is 1 480mm Radiator.
Fans are Artic P12 PWM PST's, ran out of Fans so am using Noctua NF-A12x25's for now in the front rad.

Right now Kind of outgrowing this case, CPU will pull up to 400watts and the 480 is borderline for my desired water temps (<35c).


----------



## DarthBaggins

sultanofswing said:


> Here is my Daily Turd. Need to change some things around but just gonna run it like this now.
> EVGA X299 Dark
> [email protected] all core
> 2080ti Kingpin with a Bykski Block
> 32gb [email protected]
> 2 Singularity Reservoirs
> HeatKiller CPU Block
> Aquaero 6xt
> MPS 400 and a High Flow USB Sensor
> 4 Water temp sensors.
> 4 Airflow temp sensors.
> GPU Loop is 3 360mm Radiators
> CPU Loop is 1 480mm Radiator.
> Fans are Artic P12 PWM PST's, ran out of Fans so am using Noctua NF-A12x25's for now in the front rad.
> 
> Right now Kind of outgrowing this case, CPU will pull up to 400watts and the 480 is borderline for my desired water temps (<35c).
> View attachment 2470361


This is why I invested in a CaseLabs - worth every penny and hard to grow out of, but again good luck finding a CL case for a good deal now (happens, just rare).


----------



## iCrap

Crappy phone pic but my new build is almost complete. After having a huge case for years, this time I went small.

5900x / 3080 / 32GB RAM / Silverstone LD01. Waiting on my Noctuas and new coolant and I can call it "done." Oh, and need to tidy up those lower wires and maybe add some cable combs.


----------



## Visseroth

First water cooling computer setup I've ever built....

Asus Crosshair VIII Hero (Wifi)
Ryzen 3950x
32GB GSkill
Asus RTX 2060 Super
Sabrent 1TB NVMe 4
2 x Alphacool ST30
1 x Alphacool ST60
Bitspower DDC pump w/reservoir
Bitspower CPU/VRM waterblock
Bitspower GPU waterblock

And yes I know a bit overkill on the water cooling, I didn't realize it until I already built it but on the bright side, if I ever went with a 1500W system I should have enough radiators to cool it 

I've ordered and going to add a waterblock for the chipset, I don't really like it running at almost 60C all the time and going to add some more lighting.


----------



## mouacyk

Visseroth said:


> First water cooling computer setup I've ever built....


don't believe it


----------



## Visseroth

Thank you, but it's definitely NOT my first PC I've ever built, but it is my first water cooled 

I've built enough air cooled PCs to do it in my sleep ZZzzzzzz......


----------



## RichKnecht

Here is my setup:

ASUS Rampage VI Extreme Omega
10980XE @4.8/ 1.235V
32GB Corsair Vengence 3466 RGB RAM
ASUS 2060 Dual
Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block
EK 140 Xres RGB D5
D5 RGB
1 EK XE 360
2 EK PE 360s
9 Noctua NFF-12 iPPC 3000 fans (all intake)
Lian Li PC011 XL case in black


----------



## Liquid4rt

RTX 3090
i9 9900K


----------



## dwolvin

Dual loops makes so little sense, but looks so amazingly nice!


----------



## Iceman2733

Liquid4rt said:


> RTX 3090
> i9 9900K


What in-line temp setup is that? I haven't seen one like that before


----------



## Avacado

Iceman2733 said:


> What in-line temp setup is that? I haven't seen one like that before


It's Barrowch/Bykski. I have one in my rig also. Bykski Digital Display Oled Flowmeter Thermometer, Rotor Flow Meters, Water Cooling System Alarm, Protect Cpu and Gpu, B-TFC-CS-X

RPM/Temp/Flow


----------



## Liquid4rt

Iceman2733 said:


> What in-line temp setup is that? I haven't seen one like that before


This particular one is from Bykski, works really. Got 1 in each loop.


----------



## Liquid4rt

dwolvin said:


> Dual loops makes so little sense, but looks so amazingly nice!


Yeah the temps aren’t massively different but i did see a slight drop in cpu temps. The best thing with dual loop is ease of changing out components. I can easily swap and do maintenance on the gpu or cpu if i need to.


----------



## Iceman2733

Avacado said:


> It's Barrowch/Bykski. I have one in my rig also. Bykski Digital Display Oled Flowmeter Thermometer, Rotor Flow Meters, Water Cooling System Alarm, Protect Cpu and Gpu, B-TFC-CS-X
> 
> RPM/Temp/Flow





Liquid4rt said:


> This particular one is from Bykski, works really. Got 1 in each loop.



Thank you both, how is accuracy and longevity on this model? I remember quite a few other models didn't keep working for long


----------



## Liquid4rt

Iceman2733 said:


> Thank you both, how is accuracy and longevity on this model? I remember quite a few other models didn't keep working for long


Over 6 months now and still working great, its not dimmed or seized to function at any point. Even works both ways if you invert the impeller inside depending on the direction of the flow.


----------



## Avacado

Iceman2733 said:


> Thank you both, how is accuracy and longevity on this model? I remember quite a few other models didn't keep working for long


About the same as liquid. I have had it a bit longer than him. There was a time for about a week the impeller made some noise, but resolved on its own. It took me 2 days to figure out it was coming from the flow meter. I was actually going to remove it, but again it went away. Best guess is a small piece of something or other got in the blades??? who knows. Still a good unit.


----------



## Bart

Very nice, Barrow seems to be really good at actually _listening_ to consumers and what they want. I have several Barrow flow meters and temp sensors, nice to see them getting combined now. I picked up the new Aquacomputer high flow Next this time around, and this little toy is proving to be very interesting. I was supposed to be using this with a 5950X, but after waiting 6 weeks, mine arrived with a ton of bent pins. :-( But since I already had my gaming rig torn apart in anticipation, I rebuilt it anyway. 

Lights off, since you can't see all this black once the lights go on, it's kinda "stealth bomber" look. Soft tube for now, probably switch to hard tube later on when the new CPU and or GPU lands.


Light up in purple, which is dimmer IRL than it looks in pics, very soft light on these fans:


According to the Next, Canadian distilled water + Daz Protector is the suck, LOL!


More my 'defaul't view:


----------



## Iceman2733

Bart said:


> Very nice, Barrow seems to be really good at actually _listening_ to consumers and what they want. I have several Barrow flow meters and temp sensors, nice to see them getting combined now. I picked up the new Aquacomputer high flow Next this time around, and this little toy is proving to be very interesting. I was supposed to be using this with a 5950X, but after waiting 6 weeks, mine arrived with a ton of bent pins. :-( But since I already had my gaming rig torn apart in anticipation, I rebuilt it anyway.
> 
> Lights off, since you can't see all this black once the lights go on, it's kinda "stealth bomber" look. Soft tube for now, probably switch to hard tube later on when the new CPU and or GPU lands.
> 
> 
> Light up in purple, which is dimmer IRL than it looks in pics, very soft light on these fans:
> 
> 
> According to the Next, Canadian distilled water + Daz Protector is the suck, LOL!
> 
> 
> More my 'defaul't view:


Do you have to run the Aqua software or will they run without it? I like them both, the Aqua looks to have a nicer quality screen on it. Thank you for the pictures 

Also I have been hard lined since the start with custom water cooling I can say after the years of messing with it I think I am going to go soft tubing. So much easer when upgrading and a lot less headache


----------



## Bart

Iceman2733 said:


> Do you have to run the Aqua software or will they run without it? I like them both, the Aqua looks to have a nicer quality screen on it. Thank you for the pictures


Not sure if you _need_ the software, but obviously you do if you want to change the color. I didn't like the default display, which was to alternate between all the screens every few seconds.


----------



## Iceman2733

Bart said:


> Not sure if you _need_ the software, but obviously you do if you want to change the color. I didn't like the default display, which was to alternate between all the screens every few seconds.


Thank you again big time!! I haven't messed with Aqua in quite some time. Going to try and find one, and the water quality that is some funny stuff!!! I wonder how accurate stuff like that is if you are using opaque fluid.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Iceman2733 said:


> Do you have to run the Aqua software or will they run without it? I like them both, the Aqua looks to have a nicer quality screen on it. Thank you for the pictures
> 
> Also I have been hard lined since the start with custom water cooling I can say after the years of messing with it I think I am going to go soft tubing. So much easer when upgrading and a lot less headache


The aquauite is free with the High Flow NEXT, plus, if memory serves, 6 months of updates.

The aquasuite IS required to set up the High Flow NEXT, but it will run stand alone after that.

You have control on what the display shows, plus you can control the aRGB ring on top according to system parameters... say a 'breathing' blue for coolant temperature below a predefined limit, and flashing red for a coolant temperature above that limit.


----------



## Bart

Iceman2733 said:


> Thank you again big time!! I haven't messed with Aqua in quite some time. Going to try and find one, and the water quality that is some funny stuff!!! I wonder how accurate stuff like that is if you are using opaque fluid.


You're welcome, it's a cool little toy if you have money to waste. Not sure how accurate it is, or why it hates my coolant, but it certainly has me thinking. I'm using supermarket distilled water, and Daz Protector (I think I used about 1/3rd of a bottle of that stuff). The RGB was fairly easy to set up, I have it set to glow blue if the coolant is under 30C, yellow from 30C to 45C, and red after that. You can do almost anything imaginable with the LEDs. You would want to run the software at least once anyways, if not just for updating the firmware on the thing.


----------



## Iceman2733

InfoSeeker said:


> The aquauite is free with the High Flow NEXT, plus, if memory serves, 6 months of updates.
> 
> The aquasuite IS required to set up the High Flow NEXT, but it will run stand alone after that.
> 
> You have control on what the display shows, plus you can control the aRGB ring on top according to system parameters... say a 'breathing' blue for coolant temperature below a predefined limit, and flashing red for a coolant temperature above that limit.


I appreciate the information big time and finding the video also. I just trying to figure it out so I didn't need more wires to deal with, I was building a 6LT setup quite some years ago. I like the idea and the software was very detailed and I loved that side of it.


----------



## rioja

Black vs white


----------



## dwolvin

I have not messed with either, but I love the look of BeQuiet


----------



## rioja

dwolvin said:


> I love the look of BeQuiet


It’s not only unusual aggressive look they have but also their build quality is just exceptional, every little detail is addressed
They name it high-end fans and I totally agree with such positioning 
The only doubt is their round frame instead of normal square, could they work on a radiator or a gasket mandatory?


----------



## Chiraq

Here's my little project. It's not done yet but getting there. It reminded me of an octopus sitting in the corner there so thats the name. lol Waiting for 3080, didnt bother watercooling the 2070s.

3700x v Heatkiller IV
Aquacomputer 880ml res
D5 pump
480 XSPC radiator
Silicone tubing
Strix Gaming F
Triple 1080 144hz monitors


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say getting a few more angled fittings would clean up those runs, but in all not bad


----------



## Chiraq

Thanks, when the gpu arrives I'll add a radiator, not sure front or top yet but it should clean up a little.


----------



## Krzych04650

Managed to finally put together my first loop some time ago. Using In Win 805 case and external watercooling with MO-RA3 360, soft tubing with EK Quantum Torque fittings and ZMT tubes, EK Velocity CPU block, Aquacomputer Kyrographics NEXT GPU blocks, single D5, Barrowch FBFT03 V2 flow meter and push-pull Arctic P12 fans connected with some Lamptron 10-fan hubs. Loop is fully parallel and tubes exit out of the back of the case with QDCs. Rad/pump unit is in a different room more than 6 meters away from the PC, so total loop length around 14 meters. Water delta with 1000W load (2x 2080 Ti 380W and 1.46V 6900K) is between 3 to 5 C depending on load, so it works great. Max flow is 335 LPH. Only delta on GPUs a bit high at around 18C. I did run 4-pin PWM signals and Molex power from the PSU all the way to that second room so everything powers on and off together with a PC like it normally would.


















I was also already running Ambibox (Lightpack) devices behind my monitor to get that amazing Ambilight effect, so I got another device for a case as well (you can have up to 5), put the LED stripes around front panel and covered it with milky plexi for a good light spread, so now the entire case changes color depending on what is on the screen just like the LEDs behind my monitors do, like that:













































The only thing that bothers me now are these stupid RGB lights on MSi NVLink Bridge and their stupid software does not support X99 platform, so I think I will spray these points with black spray paint to stop the light, they are probably way to tiny to try dimming foil or however it is called in English. My mobo also has this bright orange light that can sometimes go through, like you can see in the last picture.

This together with making my very overcomplicated custom desk from scratch took me like 2 moths but the effect is about where I imagined it.


----------



## Hequaqua

Anyone ever used the Watercool EPDM tubing?

If so...thoughts?


----------



## CantingSoup

Hequaqua said:


> Anyone ever used the Watercool EPDM tubing?
> 
> If so...thoughts?


I use it and haven’t had any issues with it.


----------



## Hequaqua

CantingSoup said:


> I use it and haven’t had any issues with it.


Cool....I bought about 8ft of it...lol

Thanks


----------



## Hequaqua

Double Post


----------



## Questors

Chiraq said:


> Thanks, when the gpu arrives I'll add a radiator, not sure front or top yet but it should clean up a little.





Blackstare said:


> Fixed the flow  honestly i found a 1c diff on idle but it could be ambient temp or margin of error. Kinda dig the tube going under the pcie cables though.
> 
> View attachment 2469922


Nice to see XSPC fittings. Underrated in my opinion.


----------



## Alias_Go

Krzych04650 said:


> Managed to finally put together my first loop some time ago. Using In Win 805 case and external watercooling with MO-RA3 360, soft tubing with EK Quantum Torque fittings and ZMT tubes, EK Velocity CPU block, Aquacomputer Kyrographics NEXT GPU blocks, single D5, Barrowch FBFT03 V2 flow meter and push-pull Arctic P12 fans connected with some Lamptron 10-fan hubs. Loop is fully parallel and tubes exit out of the back of the case with QDCs. Rad/pump unit is in a different room more than 6 meters away from the PC, so total loop length around 14 meters. Water delta with 1000W load (2x 2080 Ti 380W and 1.46V 6900K) is between 3 to 5 C depending on load, so it works great. Max flow is 335 LPH. Only delta on GPUs a bit high at around 18C. I did run 4-pin PWM signals and Molex power from the PSU all the way to that second room so everything powers on and off together with a PC like it normally would.
> 
> View attachment 2472030
> 
> View attachment 2472031
> 
> 
> I was also already running Ambibox (Lightpack) devices behind my monitor to get that amazing Ambilight effect, so I got another device for a case as well (you can have up to 5), put the LED stripes around front panel and covered it with milky plexi for a good light spread, so now the entire case changes color depending on what is on the screen just like the LEDs behind my monitors do, like that:
> 
> View attachment 2472032
> View attachment 2472033
> View attachment 2472034
> View attachment 2472035
> View attachment 2472036
> View attachment 2472037
> 
> 
> The only thing that bothers me now are these stupid RGB lights on MSi NVLink Bridge and their stupid software does not support X99 platform, so I think I will spray these points with black spray paint to stop the light, they are probably way to tiny to try dimming foil or however it is called in English. My mobo also has this bright orange light that can sometimes go through, like you can see in the last picture.
> 
> This together with making my very overcomplicated custom desk from scratch took me like 2 moths but the effect is about where I imagined it.



what was the deciding factor to choose to go for a parallel flow pattern?
also what size tubing did you use and do you have any photos of the tubing route into the case?


----------



## iCrap

Here's my weird weekend project, I threw together an external WC box with 3 rads, pump and res and some QDCs, ran it through the wall and into my PC. My computer room was just way too hot all the time so I gave this a try. So far seems to be working really well. Water temp stays around 28-29c and at load is only around 32c max, and more importantly the computer room is much much cooler. Only heat coming from the PC is from the PSU now.











































Totally stealthy, cant even see the tubes when the computer is in it's spot.


----------



## Avacado

iCrap said:


> Here's my weird weekend project, I threw together an external WC box with 3 rads, pump and res and some QDCs, ran it through the wall and into my PC. My computer room was just way too hot all the time so I gave this a try. So far seems to be working really well. Water temp stays around 28-29c and at load is only around 32c max, and more importantly the computer room is much much cooler. Only heat coming from the PC is from the PSU now.
> 
> View attachment 2472627
> 
> View attachment 2472628
> 
> View attachment 2472629
> 
> View attachment 2472630
> 
> View attachment 2472631
> 
> 
> 
> Totally stealthy, cant even see the tubes when the computer is in it's spot.


Clean AF, love it.


----------



## iCrap

Thanks, still need to cut the rest of the panels for the rad box and it'll look much nicer in the other room. But overall im pretty happy with how this works.


----------



## Krzych04650

Alias_Go said:


> what was the deciding factor to choose to go for a parallel flow pattern?
> also what size tubing did you use and do you have any photos of the tubing route into the case?


I went for parallel mostly because of aesthetics and simplicity (so I can have only one exit from the case and at the bottom part of it, not top.

Well maybe not simplicity in this case, because these terminals are unusually thick, leaving only 26mm spacing between the cards, so it took quite a while to find the fitting combination of exact that height that would also be rotary, since you need to screw both down at the same time with parallel, with serial I wouldn't need rotary since I could just rotate the whole card instead. I didn't want to go for any of these push-in hard tube SLI extenders, they didn't look reliable in the slightest. These blocks are also extremely heavy and have massive sag, so having a fixed connection between them stiffened everything beautifully and they went from massive sag to no sag at all.

I do not have any pictures of how it goes out of the case, but tubes simply go out of the back of the case, below the motherboard and above power supply. I had to cut a hole for them there and I also replaced the back glass panel of my case with 2mm aluminium piece in which I drilled the holes for screws in the same places where glass panel had it and also made a hole for tubing and cables to go outside of the case.

Tubes are 10/16, black ones are EK ZMT and the transparent ones are basic 10/16 technical tubes that you can buy anywhere. I went with them for outside of the case because going with PC watercooling tubing for all of this 14m+ length would be ridiculously expensive. Tubing size is probably one thing I would have done differently now though, I should probably be running wider inner diameter for such setup.


----------



## Pedros

iCrap said:


> Here's my weird weekend project, I threw together an external WC box with 3 rads, pump and res and some QDCs, ran it through the wall and into my PC. My computer room was just way too hot all the time so I gave this a try. So far seems to be working really well. Water temp stays around 28-29c and at load is only around 32c max, and more importantly the computer room is much much cooler. Only heat coming from the PC is from the PSU now.
> 
> View attachment 2472627
> 
> View attachment 2472628
> 
> View attachment 2472629
> 
> View attachment 2472630
> 
> View attachment 2472631
> 
> 
> 
> Totally stealthy, cant even see the tubes when the computer is in it's spot.


Really cool ... what case did you use for the water box? built by you?


----------



## iCrap

Pedros said:


> Really cool ... what case did you use for the water box? built by you?


Yeah, I designed / made it. I used 2020 Aluminum Extrusions i had left from an old project. I sized the case to fit 4 360s if needed (but its not needed, this is already overkill with the 2 360s / 1 240)

I designed some nice acrylic panels for it as well, I still have to cut them and then it'll look a lot nicer. I did the top and the back and then I ran out of acrylic.


----------



## Pedros

I'm building a waterbox for 3 x 560 ...
The only thing I was thinking was to do the 3 inline, instead of having them faced against each other. What do you think, If i have them as intake, do you think it will work correctly ?

Mine will be a little bigger since I'm adding a PSU and 2 pumps... lets see 

Super cool to see what you did


----------



## iCrap

Wow, 3 560s lol. That's a lot! My water temp maxes out at like 32c so I can't imagine what yours will do.

I thought about doing inline, but I think the box design like i did is a much more efficient use of space. With all the rad fans as intake, and that large top exhaust fan there are 0 issues with heat getting trapped inside. Oh, plus this way there are no exposed fans on the outside. If you look at some of the other cooling tower designs like the aquacomputer, they do it in a box / tower style as well.


----------



## Pedros

iCrap, yeah, overkill I know, but ... since this is my first custom project, why not go overkill 

Yeah, my issue is the same as yours ... Inline will be at least 50cm long. That's why I liked your design so much ... just not sure if having all rads as intake if it won't create some weird airflow problems...

P.S. love your username LOL


----------



## iCrap

Don't think you'll have any airflow problems doing it the same way, and I think once i seal it up with the side panels it'll be even more efficient. I've checked it with my IR heat gun and all the heat is being concentrated at the top exhaust, and all the rads are the same temp meaning they are evenly cooled. Oh, and no weird air noises or anything that would imply air turbulence


----------



## Pedros

ok, going to think on something like that then ... can I use your patent?


----------



## iCrap

Pedros said:


> ok, going to think on something like that then ... can I use your patent?


lol, go for it! Post pics when you finish yours


----------



## Pedros

parts were shipped, just waiting for them to arrive! 

Btw, in terms of temps, did you have everything inside the case before? did you see improvement?


----------



## iCrap

Do you mean temps with and without the rad box attached? If so yes MASSIVE improvement. My case only has the two 240s internal and water temp would max out at 48c sometimes, CPU hitting 80s occasionally, gpu load maxed at 60 (but averaged in the 50s). Now, temps are much lower. Actually my aquero is logging temps, so here are some graphs.

5900x stills runs hot as you can see, but its better. These chips just run hot AF.

Idle:









Load:


----------



## Pedros

what kind of load was that?


----------



## iCrap

Oh that's after an hour or so of Cyberpunk. I did also try running Prime95 and TImeSpy stress test at the same time as well and results were pretty much the same.


----------



## Pedros

ok, it's a hot mamma  is it stock?


----------



## iCrap

Nope oced, hitting 5.1ghz


----------



## Pedros

Not bad then ...  i guess your PBO Power limits are making it scale well and I saw temps on my 420 AIO, with Power Limits > Motherboard, go to 70's when running cinebench for example ...


----------



## rioja

All 140mm fans together ..










Which one is the best for a radiator? The answer will come soon ..


----------



## Pedros

Well P14s are the cheapest for sure  that's what I'm going to use on my HWL in p/p


----------



## rioja

Cheapest and one of the best for sure
But if money is not on the first place and you need just the best one then it gets more complicated)


----------



## dwolvin

Are you going to break it down to best, bang for the buck, quietest, etc?


----------



## rioja

Best by performance/noise with pleasant sound profile
And aesthetic in some degree
Hope to start today


----------



## dwolvin

Cool, thank you for all this effort!


----------



## Barefooter

Looking forward to the results!


----------



## j o e




----------



## ssgwright

very clean! nice build


----------



## J7SC

.yeah, very clean, great attention to detail - and that colour (aqua to electric blue is my fav )


----------



## rioja

j o e said:


> View attachment 2473442
> View attachment 2473443


Lian Li fans?


----------



## j o e

rioja said:


> Lian Li fans?


they are, I really like them and they have very nice static pressure


----------



## dwolvin

Those are the ones that plug into each other...


----------



## j o e

Yes sir


----------



## rioja

j o e said:


> they are, I really like them and they have very nice static pressure


I would like to add them to my chart but SL140 is difficult to get yet
Are yours 120 or 140 mm?
Do they make a bearing hum above 1000 rpm (for 140 mm) or 1200(120 mm)?

Meanwhile my aerodynamic tube during the testing)


----------



## rioja

Del


----------



## j o e

rioja said:


> I would like to add them to my chart but SL140 is difficult to get yet
> Are yours 120 or 140 mm?
> Do they make a bearing hum above 1000 rpm (for 140 mm) or 1200(120 mm)?
> 
> Meanwhile my aerodynamic tube during the testing)


Mine are 120mm, they don't have an audible hum that I'm aware of, I run them at 1900rpm which is the max. I do have a window ac unit in my room so it's hard to hear my fans anyway. I ordered them from walmart.com oddly enough. they aren;t maglev fans though I think they are fluid bearings


----------



## mattxx88

j o e said:


> they are, I really like them and they have very nice static pressure


may i ask you, (btw, awesome build) i have same fans and an issue with its software
it doesnt autorun when i run windows, always got to run it, then close.
Your works fine? or you have to start it manually?


----------



## j o e

It doesn't auto run on startup but it saves its settings and applies them on startup so I don't even need to open the program unless I want to make changes. Does yours revert to stock once you restart your pc? If you want to autorun it you can put it in the startup folder


----------



## GeneO

Been looking to score those LIAN Li Uni fans but they aren't in stock anywhere (though I did see a set of 3 for more than $500 on Ebay, LOL). They klook really good and so does your rig.


----------



## CptAsian

j o e said:


> View attachment 2473442
> View attachment 2473443


Very nice! I love the look of the tubing runs. Any plans for sleeved cables for the mobo and CPU?


----------



## mattxx88

j o e said:


> It doesn't auto run on startup but it saves its settings and applies them on startup so I don't even need to open the program unless I want to make changes. Does yours revert to stock once you restart your pc? If you want to autorun it you can put it in the startup folder


i already did it (putted the .exe program in startup folder, but still don't autorun)
Anyway mine doesn't lose the lightning setting, just the fans rpm is not higer as i setted. So we can say it keeps light but not fans speed 
uni fan looks really good, but the software sucks a bit


----------



## Pepillo

My 120 Unifans lose the lighting I program on the L-Connect on every reboot. It's very annoying because even if you put the program that starts every time with Windows, it does it maximized and you have to close it by hand. Very happy with the fans, very annoying with the software.


----------



## j o e

My fans don't forget anything after restart, make sure you dont have the motherboard sync option on and make sure you dont have any fan curve setup in bios for the fans maybe?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

just upgraded my psu to a seasonic 1000watt and decided to do some wire work to make it look better have to say im loving a fully modular psu makes cleaning the look of wires up so much easier.


----------



## dwolvin

Love the purple octopus look!


----------



## Pedros

To everyone :

EK ZTM
Alphacool TPV
Tygon Norprene 

What do you think it's the best bet?
Which one will have a more "standard" ID? ZTM is a hit and miss from what I'm seeing


----------



## j o e

Pedros said:


> To everyone :
> 
> EK ZTM
> Alphacool TPV
> Tygon Norprene
> 
> What do you think it's the best bet?
> Which one will have a more "standard" ID? ZTM is a hit and miss from what I'm seeing


I’ve hear Norprene is the best in terms of size, I’m using ZMT now and it fits fine


----------



## Pedros

also the double of the price


----------



## Chiraq

EK ZTM is free of plastiziser as it's a rubber based tubing. Will not leach plastiziser into your loop. Pick that one. 

You can also find some silicone based tubing. I run 3/8 silicone tubing exclusively. Got tired of the crap from plastic based tubing. A bit higher permeability but very badass none the less.


----------



## DarthBaggins

ZMT is some good tubing and easy to work with - pretty much has been my preference for the past 4+yrs


----------



## Shawnb99

DarthBaggins said:


> ZMT is some good tubing and easy to work with - pretty much has been my preference for the past 4+yrs



Just stiffer and can be a pain to get onto the fittings. Not as bendy as some tubing.


----------



## Pedros

Yeah, i have ZMT too.
Btw, any opinions on Byski fittings? just got a bunch of them but did not try... at first they seem to be good ... a tight fit on the ZMT though ... need to warm up the tubing to be easy to work with ...


----------



## Mxj1

new heatkiller v block installed on my pny 3090.

i'm still in an awkward phase between the o11 xl and a new itx chassis.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Shawnb99 said:


> Just stiffer and can be a pain to get onto the fittings. Not as bendy as some tubing.


I'd rather it be a tight fit on fittings than loose like some of the PrimoChill crap I've used, lol. Just lube it and jam it on the fittings (that sounded very wrong).


----------



## Shawnb99

DarthBaggins said:


> Just lube it and jam it on the fittings (that sounded very wrong).


So very wrong


----------



## KCDC

I know it's a tired question, but if I wanted the least resistance flow meter with it's own readout, no mobo or aquacomputer connection, which is preferred?


----------



## bungusbeefcake

KCDC said:


> I know it's a tired question, but if I wanted the least resistance flow meter with it's own readout, no mobo or aquacomputer connection, which is preferred?


I have this. Powered by a Molex and thats all. No other connections:

Bykski Inline Flow Meter and Thermometer Safety Module w/ OLED Display - Black (B-TFC-CS-X)


----------



## Hequaqua

bungusbeefcake said:


> I have this. Powered by a Molex and thats all. No other connections:
> 
> Bykski Inline Flow Meter and Thermometer Safety Module w/ OLED Display - Black (B-TFC-CS-X)


I have the same unit....love it!


----------



## ilmazzo

Is that bykski sensor reading reliable? I know it is difficult to test it out but according to some experts on my other forum claims that usually only alphacool sensors are trustworthy......


----------



## Avacado

ilmazzo said:


> Is that bykski sensor reading reliable? I know it is difficult to test it out but according to some experts on my other forum claims that usually only alphacool sensors are trustworthy......


There was a test done (Don't have the link) on the V1.0 version of the Bykski sensor that showed it was very inaccurate. I have the newest 2.0 version, that I am pretty sure is better than the first, however is probably still not very accurate.

*Edit 

Here it is, Barrow/bykski, same thing basically :Barrowch FBFT03 vs. Thermaltake Pacific TF1 and Aqua Computer High Flow Review - Flow Sensors for Custom-Loop Water Cooling with Two Total Failures


----------



## Tomiger

It's been quite a while since I posted any of my builds in this thread, though there are some build logs around.

2018-2019 build. Eventually re-proposed it for a more useable build since my cats were making life hell with this open air case. Dual loop was for fun/looks (as are most of my builds).


Spoiler
































2020 build, completed during COVID lockdown for the most part. Took a majority of the hardware from the build above. This one is still currently in use and more or less cat-proof.


Spoiler







































And the most recent build finished up a week ago or so. Haven't taken many photos of it or finished tidying up things. I did this build because my wife was using the computer above more than me, so I wanted to have something to use as well (i.e., excuse to do another build). I wasn't in the mood for a lot of modding, but wanted something different from my previous builds. This is one of those InWin 303 cases fitted with a distro-plate. Didn't really want to go with a lot of RGB lighting, so I'll have to take some better photos during the day. Brass tubing was a first for me. Decided to add in a bit of flare with acrylic tubing for the CPU.


Spoiler


----------



## ilmazzo

Avacado said:


> There was a test done (Don't have the link) on the V1.0 version of the Bykski sensor that showed it was very inaccurate. I have the newest 2.0 version, that I am pretty sure is better than the first, however is probably still not very accurate.
> 
> *Edit
> 
> Here it is, Barrow/bykski, same thing basically :Barrowch FBFT03 vs. Thermaltake Pacific TF1 and Aqua Computer High Flow Review - Flow Sensors for Custom-Loop Water Cooling with Two Total Failures


yeah I don't think I'll try them tbh..... the only other options I have right now is doing the waiting game for the alphacool aquacomputer next sensor (70€ ugh! ) or get a previous aquacomputer version used but I want to have a display on it for both flow and temperature....

Another thing I had in mind was to create my own flow and temperature sensor out of an arduino with an lcd module on it, I have seen some videos and seems very cool! But since i need a lot of things to accomplish it I wanted to try the retail route, but, since the alphacool high flow sensor is nowhere to be seen (from one to two months according to the site), I'll have to finish my first loop before it gets available, so..... decisions decisions!

cheers


----------



## Avacado

ilmazzo said:


> yeah I don't think I'll try them tbh..... the only other options I have right now is doing the waiting game for the alphacool aquacomputer next sensor (70€ ugh! ) or get a previous aquacomputer version used but I want to have a display on it for both flow and temperature....
> 
> Another thing I had in mind was to create my own flow and temperature sensor out of an arduino with an lcd module on it, I have seen some videos and seems very cool! But since i need a lot of things to accomplish it I wanted to try the retail route, but, since the alphacool high flow sensor is nowhere to be seen (from one to two months according to the site), I'll have to finish my first loop before it gets available, so..... decisions decisions!
> 
> cheers


Wait was not that bad, I pre-ordered the Next Flow meter a month and a half ago from ModMyMods and received it 2 days ago.


----------



## RichKnecht

Avacado said:


> Wait was not that bad, I pre-ordered the Next Flow meter a month and a half ago from ModMyMods and received it 2 days ago.


Did you install it yet? If so, how do you like it?


----------



## Avacado

RichKnecht said:


> Did you install it yet? If so, how do you like it?


No, have not installed it, looks great though, well made, very tiny! Waiting for it to go in my TH10a build planned for a few months. Have to get a hold of a 3 series @MSRP, but still.


----------



## Bart

ilmazzo said:


> yeah I don't think I'll try them tbh..... the only other options I have right now is doing the waiting game for the alphacool aquacomputer next sensor (70€ ugh! ) or get a previous aquacomputer version used but I want to have a display on it for both flow and temperature....
> 
> Another thing I had in mind was to create my own flow and temperature sensor out of an arduino with an lcd module on it, I have seen some videos and seems very cool! But since i need a lot of things to accomplish it I wanted to try the retail route, but, since the alphacool high flow sensor is nowhere to be seen (from one to two months according to the site), I'll have to finish my first loop before it gets available, so..... decisions decisions!
> 
> cheers


Something to keep in mind is that even if they aren't accurate, they still do the job for simple problem detection. I have the Alphacool one (got lucky, jumped on it right away), and some of the Barrow ones. If you're using it as a tool to potentially detect a problem with your flow in the future, clogging, etc, they'll do the job fine. You just may not have an accurate number. But once you fill your loop, whatever that number is will be consistent, and if you see it drop over time, it will still tip you off that you might have a problem. Now if you want to do crazy metrics on flow rate versus performance by speeding up / slowing down your pump, they obviously will not do, but it depends on your use case.


----------



## martinhal

My 3090


----------



## rioja

Big Noctua and small Noctua)










40 on 140


----------



## Shawnb99

I love those little 4mm ones. Not a fan of the rubber mount that came with them.


----------



## Alastair

Double post sorry


----------



## Alastair

I'm sure I have shared GHOST here before. But that was some years ago and she has changed quite a fair amount since then. So here are some pics of GHOST her fourth and most likely final revision. (I would like to do a straight from scratch build for my next machine.)
So GHOST v4.0











Spoiler: More Pics






























Case lighting is white but phones potato low light performance makes it seem overly blue. It really isn't that in reality. All paint is done by me including fans and case pedestal. Cable sleeving is also my work. PSU cover is also my work and my graphics. Glass Window is also my work. Rubber mat installed on mobo tray to cover unused cable management holes. Aftermarket vertical GPU mount



Spoiler: Specs



CPU: Ryzen 3800X PBO 0,0,1 EDC Bug, 5x scaler @-0.0375v ~4450MHz sustained 4650MHz Max. (60c during Realbench 2.56)
Mobo: Aorus X570 Pro WiFi
RAM: Avexir Core2 32GB (4X8GB) 3600MHz Bdie @ 3733MHz/1866FClk 18-20-20-44 (still on stock timings still tweaking)
GPU: Vega 64 @ 1770MHz core/ 1170MHz HBM (still doing some tweaking to determine HBM stability) 40c core/ 50c HBM/60c Hotspot
Power Supply: CoolerMaster V1300 Platinum
Storage: Mushkin Pilot-E 1TB, Samsung 850 Pro, WD Blue 1TB HDD, WD Blue 500GB HDD, Samsung HD502HI
Chassis: NZXT Phantom 820. (It might be old. But I still think this is one of the best cases in existence. So much so I bought a used one that I pilfered for spares)
Display: Dell SE2717H @ 81Hz
Mouse: Glorious Model D
Keyboard: Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Speakers: Genius GX SW-G2.1 3000
Headset: Hyper X Cloud

Cooling:
CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm (CoolerMaster MasterGel Maker compound)
GPU Block: Barrow Vega 64LC (Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut LM)
Radiators: EKWB PE360(top) and EKWB CE280(Bottom)
Fittings: Compressions = XSPC/ 90Degree = EKWB
Pump: XSPC D5 Vario
Res: XSPC D5 5.25 bayres
TUBING: Department store/ DiY hardware store grade PVC clear tubing. 3/4" OD 1/2" ID
FANS: 6X CoolerMaster Jetflo 120s. (want to replace these with Eloops soon)
6X Corsair ML140s
1X CoolerMaster Storm Force 200
1X CoolerMaster Xtraflo Slim


----------



## Liquid4rt




----------



## Liquid4rt

bungusbeefcake said:


> I have this. Powered by a Molex and thats all. No other connections:
> 
> Bykski Inline Flow Meter and Thermometer Safety Module w/ OLED Display - Black (B-TFC-CS-X)


I have this unit as well, got both variants the flow/temp and flow only with the time display. I found the flow/temp one rattles above 3.0l/m, makes an awful crackling sound until you turn it down. It's basically the impeller inside that's that rattling. Looking at Aquacomputers flow meters next as i've heard endless amounts of good things about them.


----------



## Stardoag




----------



## Barefooter

Stardoag said:


> View attachment 2476580


Looks good I like it


----------



## dwolvin

Same, but one question: Why the three separate rads?


----------



## ssgwright

dwolvin said:


> Same, but one question: Why the three separate rads?


wondering the same thing


----------



## Avacado

dwolvin said:


> Same, but one question: Why the three separate rads?


Because 6x90's are better than 2.


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough!


----------



## Thanh Nguyen

Stacked 3 mora-420. 3c delta at 1000w load. Anyone know how to get room air to the corner? When I put those rad outside the corner, delta is 1c or 2c. I tried to put a fan blow to the corner but it does not change anything.


----------



## Fluxmaven

A ceiling fan might help. Probably not much though. Having the rig in the corner with the rads against the wall like that is not an ideal situation. Considering you already have great temps, I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## Avacado

Thanh Nguyen said:


> Stacked 3 mora-420. 3c delta at 1000w load. Anyone know how to get room air to the corner? When I put those rad outside the corner, delta is 1c or 2c. I tried to put a fan blow to the corner but it does not change anything.
> View attachment 2478747


3 rads inside the case and 3 MORA's? LOL it looks ridiculous man.


----------



## CantingSoup

Mora 420 w/ 18 NF-A14 Chromax Push/Pull + 2 280GTS. Cooling 3700X + Red Devil 5700XT on a BC1 Mini test bench. Around 3.4C delta with CPU/GPU full load(P95+Furmark) at the same time.


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Build I've been working on for a while to hopefully top my last monstrosity from the X79 era. Have most everything together except finding what harddrives to finalize on. Top 50 3dmark HoF Port Royal so far, with #1 slot for 3960x
Specs:

AMD 3960X
Asus Strix TRX40-E
128GB Trident Z Neo 3600 CL 18
2x EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra
EVGA 1600T2+ EVGA Cables
Caselabs M8A + Pedestal
2x 2TB 980 Pro
4x Assorted Seagate Barracuda 8TB
3x EK 360, 4x EK 420 Radiators
EK Torque Fittings
EK ZMT
EK Blocks
24x Noiseblocker PL2 Fans
6x Noiseblocker PK3 Fans
Aquaero 6XT Fan Controller


----------



## Barefooter

^ That is a beast and a beauty!


----------



## JasonMorris

Very nice build


----------



## mouacyk

A little modding to keep this FT03 going. Step drill bits are awesome!


----------



## OldHotness




----------



## mouacyk

Has anyone adapted one of these to their motherboards? What's all needed and how did it go?
*Watercool HEATKILLER® SW-X 60 DIY*


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

mouacyk said:


> Has anyone adapted one of these to their motherboards? What's all needed and how did it go?
> *Watercool HEATKILLER® SW-X 60 DIY*


You would need thermal pads, nuts, bolts, plastic washers and to drill it. Koolance has something similar, but has adjustable arms. Used those on a build years ago and they worked great.


----------



## wirefox

3090 ftw3 Ultra ek block and backplate = Tight squeezeeeee..

timespy: +150 / +250 46C I scored 19 343 in Time Spy? 
port royal +150 / +250 46C I scored 14 646 in Port Royal?


----------



## ilmazzo

The best part is the gpu support lol


----------



## mattxx88

ilmazzo said:


> The best part is the gpu support lol


when you show us your buildy Frozzino??


----------



## wirefox

plastic an clay all are non-conductive


----------



## dwolvin

True- but you can get supports on Amazon that look nice and are stable enough to stay in place when you move the case. But, if the chips & chess is on purpose then rock on!


----------



## ilmazzo

mattxx88 said:


> when you show us your buildy Frozzino??


sending you a clubhouse vip invite for the lc build event for jussssssst 1k€ bro!


----------



## gtz

OldHotness said:


> View attachment 2479226
> View attachment 2479227


And I thought my 4000D was cramped lol. 

Here is currently my water-cooled 4000D. Will be changing cases soon, but this is how it stands. Have res/pump in the PSU basement.


----------



## newls1

nice and clean, really like that. Great job


----------



## mouacyk

It is very simple and clean with few points for failure. However, that is a 300W GPU and should be cooled with water


----------



## gtz

mouacyk said:


> It is very simple and clean with points for failure. However, that is a 300W GPU and should be cooled with water


No blocks available for the XFX Merc 319. Alphacool should be releasing some soon. By then I will be moved to the new case. Adding dual 360mm rads to the new build.


----------



## Sir Beregond

gtz said:


> No blocks available for the XFX Merc 319. Alphacool should be releasing some soon. By then I will be moved to the new case. Adding dual 360mm rads to the new build.


Yeah I ordered an Alphacool block for the 3070 I managed to snag and yep, still waiting. PPCs still lists it as "coming 3rd or 4th week of January" and when I chatted with them they said "soon". Wee'll see lol. Bykski makes one as well but theirs was not going to ship until something like end of April.


----------



## OldHotness

I decided to make a wall computer setup to show off the new 480.


----------



## Wihglah

Probably going to add a 140mm rad on the exhaust for the GPU loop as soon as I can figure out a clean layout.


----------



## Jokesterwild

5800x - 6800 xt - airplex foot warmer.


----------



## Net30

I want 1


----------



## Soulpatch

Jokesterwild said:


> 5800x - 6800 xt - airplex foot warmer.


So badly wanted to do an external radiator like your setup. Unfortunately we have a couple cats who get far to curious. But it's a brilliant idea since you could create a loop that will cool far better than the normal system. What pump are you running for your circuit?


----------



## Jokesterwild

Soulpatch said:


> So badly wanted to do an external radiator like your setup. Unfortunately we have a couple cats who get far to curious. But it's a brilliant idea since you could create a loop that will cool far better than the normal system. What pump are you running for your circuit?


Its a dual d5 vario


----------



## mouacyk

Soulpatch said:


> So badly wanted to do an external radiator like your setup. Unfortunately we have a couple cats who get far to curious. But it's a brilliant idea since you could create a loop that will cool far better than the normal system. What pump are you running for your circuit?


Bet you they won't stick their curious paws into the fan blades more than once. The pioneering cat may also spread the word.

To get the most out of water cooling without using a gigantic case, external radiators are really best. I've got just a 360mm and 120mm cooling an RTX 3080 and 9900K at 5.2GHz.


----------



## Bart

Yeah the older I get, the more I'm warming to the idea of external rads. Lugging around cases with triple 360s is hard on an old mans back.


----------



## Raul-7

Bart said:


> Yeah the older I get, the more I'm warming to the idea of external rads. Lugging around cases with triple 360s is hard on an old mans back.


MO-RA3; best external radiator. Can cool even the most power hungry CPUs [looking at you Threadripper/10980XE] and GPUs.


----------



## Soulpatch

mouacyk said:


> Bet you they won't stick their curious paws into the fan blades more than once. The pioneering cat may also spread the word.
> 
> To get the most out of water cooling without using a gigantic case, external radiators are really best. I've got just a 360mm and 120mm cooling an RTX 3080 and 9900K at 5.2GHz.


You'd be amazed. But if you look at my system, for all intents it may as well be a full external rad anyway. But if I do it, there'd be no way to do a floor model. Once we move I have plans to go completely external with a custom built system, but for now what I have really helps keep the temps down. Everything is in/out and no cross contamination of heated air since I'm running the lian li 011dx. But it was some extra work to do that. On the upside, in the middle of august in satan's armpit of the south (we moved to alabama) my coolant keeps a nice 24C idle/30C after gaming an hour+. Lucky you, I'm still waiting for the 3080 I ordered 6 months ago. But ya, running a 9900k and the 1070 still.


----------



## Happy Trails

Finish up the pc water loop started 6 months ago. Nothing exotic just 011D XL with distro plate and alphacool radiators. Just install the 2nd radiator happy with how layout worked out as far as space. Here seeing with 45mm radiator thickness so maybe a 60mm may not have the fit at bottom if someone wanted to try. Something I not realize with the 1 radiator was while temps seem fine when pc is loaded for maybe hour or so was seeing just very slight heat soak. Now with 2 radiators it does run 6-7 degrees cooler at idle but loaded I seem to have lower temps 11-12 degrees very pleased. 










Here photo of finished paint radiator xt45, some fittings and a pump heatsink










Pump heatsink installed. Wasn't even warm before I should have checked. Install this anyways since I have. Original plan was install heatsink with a fan mount on the top but not going to do that now. This original pump 6 months old now seems in fine shape very silent so will see how long lasts. Read many comments about how these no long life and people sometimes immediate replace.


----------



## Darb

My first custom loop is complete. Been a steep learning curve but now I know how to bend acrylic. Very happy with it. Next project will be dual loop to external Rads......


----------



## dwolvin

Very nice! And... How tough is it? I am thinking of going hardline but can't see using PETG or whatever the softer stuff is.


----------



## caraboose

It's been a while since I posted anything here...


----------



## Darb

dwolvin said:


> Very nice! And... How tough is it? I am thinking of going hardline but can't see using PETG or whatever the softer stuff is.


Once you find the right feel of the tube to bend it, it is not that hard. Some tubing died until I found that point.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I found a channel you guys might like. These guys are the real deal.

6 way Nvidia RTX3090 workstation - The Molecule - Final overview of testing Part 5 - YouTube


----------



## caraboose

dwolvin said:


> Very nice! And... How tough is it? I am thinking of going hardline but can't see using PETG or whatever the softer stuff is.


I did my very first hard tube build (located just above) and the first tube was a total success, but then after that... well... it was a total crap shoot. I got better and better as the time goes on.
Learned a lot of stuff, I want to try it again now that I'm more smarter about how the process works. 

Have lots of patience, measure a lot, buy much more tubing that you think you'll need.


----------



## Happy Trails

Thought it was fun to do tubing bend


----------



## Rainmaker91

Don't think I posted something after I was finished building my retro system. I still need to tweak it a bit, since the vinyl decals for the front got ruined. All in all though I'm fairly happy with it, especially as far as just being a retro box.

Components:

CPU: AMD Phenom 9950Be (140w version)
Motherboard: DFI LP UT 790FX-M2R
RAM: Just some sticks of DDR2 800mhz I had laying around with some customized Thermalright HR-07 heatsinks on them (had to desolder and grind away one of the towers to fit 4 sticks)
GPU: AMD Radeon HD4890 1gb (Asus EAH4890/HTDI/1GD5)
The PSU in the picture had to be swapped after I was finished due to it dying of old age (had already replaced the fan, but it just refused to boot at one point. RIP; TX650v2)
Case is a Be Quiet Silent Base 801 set up in reverse mobo layout and modified a tiny bit with passthroughs, lights in interesting places and vinyl decals.

The cooling is just various bits I had laying around, but I had to replace the top rad with a HWLabs 360x60mm rad since I managed to puncture my Phobya 360x60mm rad. The GPU has an EKWB Thermosphere on it, so I had to manufacture vRAM and VRM cooling for it. The vRAM is just a 10cmx10cm aluminium heatsink I cut to size and then soldered on mounting points for screws on. The VRAM was a bit more involved and I ended up soldering together some copper plates and then soldering on an old MIPS VRM motherboard block onto it, it's watertight and seems to work quite well (that's what all those fittings over the GPU block is for).

Other than that, it's fairly standard. Some passthrough fittings to get the tubing on the back of the case, a simple Bitspower/EKWB DDC res/pump combo. The HwLabs 360mm radiator as well as an old XSPC 360mmx30mm radiator in the front which I touched up with some paint. Tubing is just Mayhems ultra clear tubing, and coolant is EKWB Yellow Lime coolant (Got quite pissed when I noticed it was green and not yellow though). The fans are just some old Arctic Cooling F12 fans that I modified with some yellow LED strips and mounted fan grils on.

All in all, I'm fairly happy with it. Though I still need to tweak the Windows 7 install since it seems to no longer work after the latest update.


----------



## mouacyk

Rainmaker91 said:


> Don't think I posted something after I was finished building my retro system. I still need to tweak it a bit, since the vinyl decals for the front got ruined. All in all though I'm fairly happy with it, especially as far as just being a retro box.
> 
> Components:
> 
> CPU: AMD Phenom 9950Be (140w version)
> Motherboard: DFI LP UT 790FX-M2R
> RAM: Just some sticks of DDR2 800mhz I had laying around with some customized Thermalright HR-07 heatsinks on them (had to desolder and grind away one of the towers to fit 4 sticks)
> GPU: AMD Radeon HD4890 1gb (Asus EAH4890/HTDI/1GD5)
> The PSU in the picture had to be swapped after I was finished due to it dying of old age (had already replaced the fan, but it just refused to boot at one point. RIP; TX650v2)
> Case is a Be Quiet Silent Base 801 set up in reverse mobo layout and modified a tiny bit with passthroughs, lights in interesting places and vinyl decals.
> 
> The cooling is just various bits I had laying around, but I had to replace the top rad with a HWLabs 360x60mm rad since I managed to puncture my Phobya 360x60mm rad. The GPU has an EKWB Thermosphere on it, so I had to manufacture vRAM and VRM cooling for it. The vRAM is just a 10cmx10cm aluminium heatsink I cut to size and then soldered on mounting points for screws on. The VRAM was a bit more involved and I ended up soldering together some copper plates and then soldering on an old MIPS VRM motherboard block onto it, it's watertight and seems to work quite well (that's what all those fittings over the GPU block is for).
> 
> Other than that, it's fairly standard. Some passthrough fittings to get the tubing on the back of the case, a simple Bitspower/EKWB DDC res/pump combo. The HwLabs 360mm radiator as well as an old XSPC 360mmx30mm radiator in the front which I touched up with some paint. Tubing is just Mayhems ultra clear tubing, and coolant is EKWB Yellow Lime coolant (Got quite pissed when I noticed it was green and not yellow though). The fans are just some old Arctic Cooling F12 fans that I modified with some yellow LED strips and mounted fan grils on.
> 
> All in all, I'm fairly happy with it. Though I still need to tweak the Windows 7 install since it seems to no longer work after the latest update.


Your RAM heatsinks are dope!


----------



## Rainmaker91

mouacyk said:


> Your RAM heatsinks are dope!


Glad you like them, I had to remove the second tower with a blow-torch. Worth it though, cause originally the whole point was to use old and overkill cooling stuff in this build. I have the Thermalright 4870/4890 VRM cooling too, but I couldn't make it fit on my custom PCB card so I went with a custom block instead. Still, those ram heatsinks is the only thing really left from my original build idea along with the CPU.


----------



## Bart

@Happy Trails: nice rig! FYI, you can indeed fit a UT60 on bottom with a set of fans, but it is perilously close to your USB 3.0 header cable.


----------



## bassfisher6522

Happy Trails said:


> Finish up the pc water loop started 6 months ago. Nothing exotic just 011D XL with distro plate and alphacool radiators. Just install the 2nd radiator happy with how layout worked out as far as space. Here seeing with 45mm radiator thickness so maybe a 60mm may not have the fit at bottom if someone wanted to try. Something I not realize with the 1 radiator was while temps seem fine when pc is loaded for maybe hour or so was seeing just very slight heat soak. Now with 2 radiators it does run 6-7 degrees cooler at idle but loaded I seem to have lower temps 11-12 degrees very pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here photo of finished paint radiator xt45, some fittings and a pump heatsink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump heatsink installed. Wasn't even warm before I should have checked. Install this anyways since I have. Original plan was install heatsink with a fan mount on the top but not going to do that now. This original pump 6 months old now seems in fine shape very silent so will see how long lasts. Read many comments about how these no long life and people sometimes immediate replace.





Darb said:


> View attachment 2483034
> 
> My first custom loop is complete. Been a steep learning curve but now I know how to bend acrylic. Very happy with it. Next project will be dual loop to external Rads......


Very nice guys.....way cool setups.


----------



## Avacado

0451 said:


> I found a channel you guys might like. These guys are the real deal.
> 
> 6 way Nvidia RTX3090 workstation - The Molecule - Final overview of testing Part 5 - YouTube


Meh, I could do it better. Case is cool though, can't identify it.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Avacado said:


> Meh, I could do it better. Case is cool though, can't identify it.


I love the industrial look of the fittings, hoses, pumps, flow meter and especially that manifold. Acrylic RGB builds look like Fisher Price toys in comparison.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

been quite awhile sence i posted any new pics did some changes last month still waiting to snag a new gpu at a price i like lol might have a 10foot long beard before that happens gpus not sagging just at angle i took the pic i believe.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Bal3Wolf said:


> been quite awhile sence i posted any new pics did some changes last month still waiting to snag a new gpu at a price i like lol might have a 10foot long beard before that happens gpus not sagging just at angle i took the pic i believe.


I'm sure it works quite well, but what's up with those weird runs?


----------



## Beagle Box

Rainmaker91 said:


> I'm sure it works quite well, but what's up with those weird runs?


Looks like it's routed so the GPU can be removed/reinserted and the CPU water block can be removed and repasted without draining the system.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Beagle Box said:


> Looks like it's routed so the GPU can be removed/reinserted and the CPU water block can be removed and repasted without draining the system.


That could be done by connecting the CPU and the GPU as well, but yes that benefit did occur to me. As it is right there you should be able to disconnect either the CPU block or the GPU block independently from each other. Which does have it's own benefit for sure.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea i did it so i could redo cpu paste if i didnt like temps there is a rad in the bottom of the case that you cant see from that pic also.


----------



## Happy Trails

Thanks so much!! Looks like you have fit in there really good the radiator looks nice. 



Bart said:


> @Happy Trails: nice rig! FYI, you can indeed fit a UT60 on bottom with a set of fans, but it is perilously close to your USB 3.0 header cable.


----------



## ceemic

Back in watercooling in more than 14 years. Now with last month been able to almost complete my modest rig:












Spoiler: More pics:



Specs:
3900X + TechN CPU block and 2070 Super + Alphacool Eisblock GPX-N.
Alphacool XT45 V2 360 + XT45 V2 240 with 5x Arctic P12 PWM PST; EK-Quantum Inertia D5 PWM pump; EK-RES X3 110 res.
EK ZMT 16/10 tube with Alphacool fittings. 
All in Fractal Define 7 Compact case:






































I had a "nice" surprise when I added 240 rad to the loop yesterday. One fan did not fit because it was interfering with ram heatsinks 
Did a small hacksaw mod and cut off small portion from the heatsinks 











Spoiler


----------



## Rainmaker91

ceemic said:


> Back in watercooling in more than 14 years. Now with last month been able to almost complete my modest rig:
> 
> View attachment 2483227
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More pics:
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> 3900X + TechN CPU block and 2070 Super + Alphacool Eisblock GPX-N.
> Alphacool XT45 V2 360 + XT45 V2 240 with 5x Arctic P12 PWM PST; EK-Quantum Inertia D5 PWM pump; EK-RES X3 110 res.
> EK ZMT 16/10 tube with Alphacool fittings.
> All in Fractal Define 7 Compact case:
> View attachment 2483228
> 
> 
> View attachment 2483229
> 
> 
> View attachment 2483230
> 
> 
> View attachment 2483233
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a "nice" surprise when I added 240 rad to the loop yesterday. One fan did not fit because it was interfering with ram heatsinks
> Did a small hacksaw mod and cut off small portion from the heatsinks
> 
> View attachment 2483231
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2483232


Rare to see an entirelly blacked out build these days, I like it though. It's clean and no frills, makes for a good look.


----------



## ceemic

Thanks.
Yeah, I am allergic to RGB 
At the moment only LED is the gigabit LAN green one in the IO


----------



## Rainmaker91

ceemic said:


> Thanks.
> Yeah, I am allergic to RGB
> At the moment only LED is the gigabit LAN green one in the IO


I'm specifically setting up and converting my build to RGB as part of my rebuild process . In any case, one of the features I always liked on my case is that it includes an on/off switch for the LEDs. I'll solder that one up so it also works on all the RGB stuff in the case (all aRGB). That way I can get just the right coloured hue on my design when I want lights, or I can just turn it all off with the push of a button. Best of both worlds as far as I am concerned. Annoyingly the mobo RGB is a bit more tricky to turn off though.


----------



## Shawnb99

ceemic said:


> Thanks.
> Yeah, I am allergic to RGB
> At the moment only LED is the gigabit LAN green one in the IO


Yeah I’m the same way. It’s hard though when almost everything comes with it.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

ceemic said:


> Thanks.
> Yeah, I am allergic to RGB
> At the moment only LED is the gigabit LAN green one in the IO


Im pretty much the same but i have a uv light i can turn on and off by remote if i want to not very britght either just shows a little glow.


----------



## Sc00ter

I've recently been eyeing the Corsair 5000D Airflow to replace the 011 XL, as I quickly grew tired of the look. Knowing I had to dismantle the loop so I could install my 5900X and vertically mounted 3090 FE, I decided to go ahead with the case swap and loop reconfiguration. During the process, I also swapped out my old 3x360 EKWB PE rads for 2x360 Corsair XR5 rads.

This is my 3rd custom loop build and this time I wanted to focus on function over form (mostly), with minimal RGB. The idea behind the somewhat odd run configuration, was to keep the GPU and CPU runs separated with enough tube length that I could easily pull each or both of the blocks and set them to the side, without draining the loop. It will come in handy when I inevitably want to upgrade individual components and/or add NVME Gen 4 drives to the MB, down the road.

The vertical mount I used is the EKWB vertical mount, which I originally purchased for the 011 XL (*LINK*) in preparation for the 3090 FE w/Corsair block. Technically, this mount doesn't work with the 5000D because this case has horizontal bars where the PCI brackets mount. However, those bars were easy to remove with my dremel and a little bit of patience. I'm happy to report that removing those bars did not seem to diminish the rigidity of the side mounting points, where the thumb screws attach.

As much as I tried to avoid them, I did have to use one 90 degree fitting in the loop. But, overall, I am quite happy with the end result.

*Before*:










*After*:









I still have some wire cleanup to do behind the case. Ignore that. 










While I do love how it turned out, I've already decided that next time I'm going to do a smaller form factor build with an external MO-RA3, dual pumps and a reservoir. There's a storage closet just on the other side of the wall, where I could easily mount all those external components and run the tubing through the wall. But that's a project for another time.


----------



## MNMadman

Sc00ter said:


> I've recently been eyeing the Corsair 5000D Airflow to replace the 011 XL, as I quickly grew tired of the look. Knowing I had to dismantle the loop so I could install my 5900X and vertically mounted 3090 FE, I decided to go ahead with the case swap and loop reconfiguration. During the process, I also swapped out my old 3x360 EKWB PE rads for 2x360 Corsair XR5 rads.
> 
> This is my 3rd custom loop build and this time I wanted to focus on function over form (mostly), with minimal RGB. The idea behind the somewhat odd run configuration, was to keep the GPU and CPU runs separated with enough tube length that I could easily pull each or both of the blocks and set them to the side, without draining the loop. It will come in handy when I inevitably want to upgrade individual components and/or add NVME Gen 4 drives to the MB, down the road.
> 
> The vertical mount I used is the EKWB vertical mount, which I originally purchased for the 011 XL (*LINK*) in preparation for the 3090 FE w/Corsair block. Technically, this mount doesn't work with the 5000D because this case has horizontal bars where the PCI brackets mount. However, those bars were easy to remove with my dremel and a little bit of patience. I'm happy to report that removing those bars did not seem to diminish the rigidity of the side mounting points, where the thumb screws attach.
> 
> As much as I tried to avoid them, I did have to use one 90 degree fitting in the loop. But, overall, I am quite happy with the end result.
> 
> *Before*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *After*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have some wire cleanup to do behind the case. Ignore that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I do love how it turned out, I've already decided that next time I'm going to do a smaller form factor build with an external MO-RA3, dual pumps and a reservoir. There's a storage closet just on the other side of the wall, where I could easily mount all those external components and run the tubing through the wall. But that's a project for another time.


Very nice build.

The future build will be awesome too. The MO-RA3 is a fantastic radiator. I populated it with nine Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 fans and it kept my overclocked Threadripper 1950X plus Titan Xp build quite cool. I wish I could have kept using it, but I no longer have the room.


----------



## Sc00ter

MNMadman said:


> Very nice build.
> 
> The future build will be awesome too. The MO-RA3 is a fantastic radiator. I populated it with nine Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 fans and it kept my overclocked Threadripper 1950X plus Titan Xp build quite cool. I wish I could have kept using it, but I no longer have the room.


Thanks! It's not the prettiest build but it definitely does the job.

Yesterday, I placed one of my Nest temp sensors in the enclosed storage room behind the wall that my computer sits against and discovered that room remains at a steady 18c, compared to upwards of 24c in my office. So naturally, I'm now already planning a "phase 2" of the new build, with the addition of the MO-RA3 on the other side of the wall, with a serial pump setup.

And, as I'm thinking about it, the 5000D comes with a really nice removable interior side panel that would be absolutely perfect to mod to route the inlet/outlet tubing through the back of the case, for a very nice, clean look. 

I probably should have made that decision and figured it all out before redoing the build this time. But hey, 90% of the fun with this stuff is planning for what's next!


----------



## D13mass

When I had MO-RA3 420 in 2015 everybody told me are you crazy, does it radiator from car etc, but now I can see many people switch to external radiator like MO-RA3 it is.

Guys who has Lian Li O11D XL could someone answer me The Official Lian Li Owner's Showcase Thread

Should I try to build new loop in Lian Li O11D XL with 360+360+280 or use my current Phanteks P500A with 360+280? Phanteks feels much better quality.


----------



## Sc00ter

D13mass said:


> When I had MO-RA3 420 in 2015 everybody told me are you crazy, does it radiator from car etc, but now I can see many people switch to external radiator like MO-RA3 it is.


If someone would have suggested the MO-RA3 to me 6 months ago, I would have laughed it off and not given it a second thought. From what I've seen, the temp difference with the MO-RA3 compared to setup with 2x360mm internal radiators is 5c or less. So in many situations, it just isn't worth the extra hassle. Not to mention having an extra piece of equipment taking up space in the room.

However, now that my new office is setup in a way that allows me to store the external radiator behind a wall, in an unused room that remains at a steady ~5c cooler than my office, it makes A LOT more sense.




D13mass said:


> Should I try to build new loop in Lian Li O11D XL with 360+360+280 or use my current Phanteks P500A with 360+280? Phanteks feels much better quality.



The 011 XL is a great case. But I personally grew tired of mine very fast (less than 12 months). It's a heavy, bulky case that's awkward to lug around and work on. Especially when packed full of radiators.

In addition, I won't bother with the complexity of running a triple radiator setup again. I always knew I was getting a diminished return with the 3rd radiator. But even after testing all sorts of fan orientations, to get the optimal cooling performance in the 011 XL with 3x360mm radiators, I've discovered that my new setup, with 2x360mm rads, cools the CPU and GPU just as efficiently. Even with the same fan curve profiles. I'm talking less than a 2c difference in all of the same scenarios I put my computer in, with the previous setup.

Knowing that, I'd go with 360+280 in the P500A, personally. Your loop will be less complex, making runs easier/cleaner, and cooling performance will be more than adequate.


----------



## D13mass

Sc00ter said:


> setup with 2x360mm internal radiators is 5c or less.


I know, Watercool do not know how to build good radiator, 2 nemesis 360GTS could be the same with the same 800RPM.


Sc00ter said:


> Knowing that, I'd go with 360+280 in the P500A, personally. Your loop will be less complex, making runs easier/cleaner, and cooling performance will be more than adequate.


And you know, probably I will do exactly the same, just was thinking today and decided that P500A with 360+280 is enough and I like Phanteks more.

Thanks you for your advice!


----------



## Hawkjoss

got 3070 Waterblock installed and changed the liquid to Mayhems XTR


















UPD:
Installed darkside UV SE lights for night goodness


----------



## TeslaHUN

Planning loop in my Lian li dk05x Desk.
2x360 slim rad with intake fans ,and 7exhaust case fan .
Or 360slim rad with intake fans + 3 intake case fan plus 480 thick rad with exhaust fans +3 case exhaust ? 
With the second option pre heated air from first rad would travel through the 2nd (480 )rad ,thats not so effective ,but more surface area in total. What would you choose?


----------



## D13mass

Removed


----------



## xNAPx

Not much to say about it. Recently changed case from a Manta Nzxt to this Aerocool mini eclipse. I am not a fan of big cases, so I purchased this micro ATX one coming from the previous manta which was a mini itx case (quite a big one, almost a micro ATX). This is not the most recent picture (I did a little adjustment to cable management) but it is pretty much so


----------



## MageTank

Finally finished my first hardline system, resulting in this copper monstrosity:


Spoiler















So far, the 5950X hasn't exceeded 60C under my typical gaming loads and the 2080 Ti tops out around 40C. My memory will stay at whatever my ambient fluid temps are, so roughly around 28C-34C depending on loop saturation.

I plan on flushing the loop and making some slight changes to the tubing in the future, definitely need to re-polish with brasso after my greasy hands handled the tubes during installation, they lost their luster by the time I got everything installed. Overall, I am very happy with the results.


----------



## dwolvin

Very nice! What's the GPU block?


----------



## Thanh Nguyen




----------



## MageTank

dwolvin said:


> Very nice! What's the GPU block?


Heatkiller IV RTX 2080 Ti: Watercool HEATKILLER® IV for RTX 2080 Ti - Acryl, 129,95 €


----------



## Sir Beregond

MageTank said:


> Finally finished my first hardline system, resulting in this copper monstrosity:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484785
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, the 5950X hasn't exceeded 60C under my typical gaming loads and the 2080 Ti tops out around 40C. My memory will stay at whatever my ambient fluid temps are, so roughly around 28C-34C depending on loop saturation.
> 
> I plan on flushing the loop and making some slight changes to the tubing in the future, definitely need to re-polish with brasso after my greasy hands handled the tubes during installation, they lost their luster by the time I got everything installed. Overall, I am very happy with the results.


You call it a copper monstrosity, I call it pretty cool!

How do you bend the copper?


----------



## MageTank

Sir Beregond said:


> You call it a copper monstrosity, I call it pretty cool!
> 
> How do you bend the copper?


Used a propane torch to anneal the copper and a 5/8 pipe bender:


Spoiler















Didn't bother filling the tube with anything, just got it red hot, quenched it, and moved on to bending. The biggest problem with my tube thickness was the fact that I couldn't get tight radius bends, which made going from the CPU block to the RAM block pretty impossible without the use of fittings. I wanted to rely less on fittings and instead utilize more copper tubing, but it didn't work out that way.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like a Heatkiller block to me, which was already answered thanks to my browser not putting me at the most recent post.


----------



## pj530i

Got my cablemod cables today and the computer is now DONE. Custom cables are a total waste of money but the 3x 8 pin with the PSU provided cables was horrifically ugly

Originally built last year with a 3950x and a Pascal Titan X from a previous machine. Now running a 5950x and 3090. 













Spoiler













I don't particularly care about the RGB, mostly because..










This is the only spot to put the machine


----------



## Knoxx29

No fancy like so many other Build posted in this thread, but it performance ( Catch me if you can  )


----------



## mouacyk

Knoxx29 said:


> No fancy like so many other Build posted in this thread, but it performance ( Catch me if you can  )
> 
> 
> View attachment 2485758
> View attachment 2485759
> View attachment 2485760
> View attachment 2485761


much attitude, it has


----------



## Knoxx29

Joke aside, i don't know what i was thinking when i built it


----------



## Avacado

Knoxx29 said:


> No fancy like so many other Build posted in this thread, but it performance ( Catch me if you can  )
> 
> 
> View attachment 2485758
> View attachment 2485759
> View attachment 2485760
> View attachment 2485761


I want to hardline that build for you so badly right now. That distro plate on the side is throwing me off, what is it's purpose exactly? If you eliminate those seemingly unneeded runs, I bet your flow will double. It looks like you are running one pump and I bet you need that extra flow.


----------



## Knoxx29

Avacado said:


> I want to hardline that build for you so badly right now. That distro plate on the side is throwing me off, what is it's purpose exactly? If you eliminate those seemingly unneeded runs, I bet your flow will double. It looks like you are running one pump and I bet you need that extra flow.
> 
> View attachment 2485805


I dont know why but lately i am kinda obsessed with Custom Spaghetti Loops, anyway, from the beginning i could have built it with less tubing but then i know that i wouldn't have like it, just seeing 5 tubing in a Custom Loop and i get depressed.

See my Lian Li V3000 Build, no different from the Obsidian 1000D one.










A distro plate on the side too.


----------



## Avacado

Knoxx29 said:


> I dont know why but lately i am kinda obsessed with Custom Spaghetti Loops, anyway, from the beginning i could have built it with less tubing but then i know that i wouldn't have like it, just seeing 5 tubing in a Custom Loop and i get depressed.
> 
> See my Lian Li V3000 Build, no different from the Obsidian 1000D one.
> View attachment 2485915
> 
> 
> 
> A distro plate on the side too.
> View attachment 2485917


Cool! If you're happy, i'm happy. Love the chiller. I am curious to what you flow is, 3 rads, 2 blocks and one pump.


----------



## Knoxx29

Avacado said:


> I am curious to what you flow is, 3 rads, 2 blocks and one pump.


Now you made me curious.

Would something Like this work: Bitspower Durchflusssensor G1/4 Zoll - shiny black


----------



## mouacyk

My D5 pump started making slow clicking sounds and flow ceased completely. Is it dead? Probably 4 years old, in an EK-XRES combo.


----------



## Avacado

mouacyk said:


> My D5 pump started making slow clicking sounds and flow ceased completely. Is it dead? Probably 4 years old, in an EK-XRES combo.


Eek. That sucks man. At least you were there when it happened.


----------



## Knoxx29

mouacyk said:


> Probably 4 years old


I don't think it has anything to do with it, my D5 has been running for 6 years in 3 different Loops and now it is in my main Build


----------



## Avacado

Knoxx29 said:


> Now you made me curious.
> 
> Would something Like this work: Bitspower Durchflusssensor G1/4 Zoll - shiny black


That is an RPM flow meter. If you are really curious, you can get a general idea (Though not extremely accurate) with something like this Bykski

or something very accurate with something like this Aquacomputer


----------



## Knoxx29

Avacado said:


> That is an RPM flow meter. If you are really curious, you can get a general idea (Though not extremely accurate) with something like this Bykski
> 
> or something very accurate with something like this Aquacomputer


Ordered the *Bitspower *2 days ago, was waiting for your answer 😪 anyway how does a rpm one works?


----------



## mouacyk

Avacado said:


> Eek. That sucks man. At least you were there when it happened.





Knoxx29 said:


> I don't think it has anything to do with it, my D5 has been running for 6 years in 3 different Loops and now it is in my main Build


It's a Vario pump and I had been running it at speed 4-5 most of its life so far, but only switched to speed 2 a month ago. It had been vibrating more at speed 4+ but still maintain 3700 to 4700rpms at speed 4, that's why I lowered the speed to 2 (around 1600rpms) and reduced almost all vibrations. I wonder if the speed reduction accelerated its death.


----------



## Knoxx29

mouacyk said:


> I wonder if the speed reduction accelerated its death.


I dont think so, my have been running at different speeds, depending the Loop.


----------



## Fluxmaven

I kinda like soft tube spaghetti builds. Recently added some spice (10850k) and redid the spaghetti on my spare PC. Single D5 pushes through this and a MO-RA3 mounted under the desk just fine.


----------



## Barefooter

Fluxmaven said:


> I kinda like soft tube spaghetti builds. Recently added some spice (10850k) and redid the spaghetti on my spare PC. Single D5 pushes through this and a MO-RA3 mounted under the desk just fine.
> 
> View attachment 2486314
> 
> 
> View attachment 2486317


That looks great with the soft tubing.


----------



## Senate707

Phanteks Enthoo Primo
AMD 5600X
GTX 780


----------



## Mxj1

I'm up and running in my W1. 2x 280mm rads in an itx case with exceptional air flow.










I'm testing the apogee right now. I'll be switching in my sig v2 shortly.


----------



## Insidious Supra

New here. Just built a b550/5800x setup. I had parts to water cool my reference 1080ti in the mail when my x79 board blew out, so made the upgrade to b550. Parts to water cool were intended for a more confined case, so have simply been adapted to this case. Got a cpu AIO for simplicity, and also because my gpu WC parts had still not arrived.

Just has 2 cheap copper 120mm rads, one up top, one on bottom. All rads are setup to push as exhaust. 3 case fans (one missing in photo) are setup as intake. Rads all using arctic pressure optimizes fans.

Gpu runs at 42 degrees, full tilt. Blower cooler used to have it at 84 full time. 5800x @ 5050mhz hovers around 52 degrees under normal gaming load


----------



## Insidious Supra

View attachment 2486904
New here. Just built a b550/5800x setup. I had parts to water cool my reference 1080ti in the mail when my x79 board blew out, so made the upgrade to b550. Parts to water cool were intended for a more confined case, so have simply been adapted to this case. Got a cpu AIO for simplicity, and also because my gpu WC parts had still not arrived.

Just has 2 cheap copper 120mm rads, one up top, one on bottom. All rads are setup to push as exhaust. 3 case fans (one missing in photo) are setup as intake. Rads all using arctic pressure optimizes fans.

Gpu runs at 42 degrees, full tilt. Blower cooler used to have it at 84 full time. 5800x @ 5050mhz hovers around 52 degrees under normal gaming load


----------



## Mxj1

sig v2 is in.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Mxj1 said:


> sig v2 is in.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pretty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


Nice use of a star filter.


----------



## Mxj1

InfoSeeker said:


> Nice use of a star filter.


Star filter?


----------



## Insidious Supra

Lol, I'm guessing he thinks the glimmer isn't real


----------



## InfoSeeker

Mxj1 said:


> Star filter?


Star Filter


----------



## Mxj1

InfoSeeker said:


> Star Filter
> View attachment 2487111


No star filter here... just a really old Canon DSLR.


----------



## valvehead

Yep. That "effect" is caused by a non-circular aperture. Here is a 14-point star created by a 7-bladed aperture:


----------



## J7SC

...ongoing build, not yet ready for 'big pics', just a quick peek ...5950X, Asus Dark Hero Crosshair VIII, 32GB GSkill, Asus Strix 3090 OC. Total of 1280x64 rad space, 2x D5s, 24x Arctic pwm fans


----------



## Knoxx29

J7SC said:


> Total of 1280x64 rad space,


And that's 3x 420?


----------



## J7SC

Knoxx29 said:


> And that's 3x 420?


2x 480, 2x 160


----------



## Shawnb99

J7SC said:


> Total of 1280x64 rad space


Is the x64 the width of the radiators?


----------



## Shawnb99

This is my ghetto setup atm.
Rather then lose a radiator for the stupid AIO, I made it work. I think the tape job adds real class to it.
It’ll be cleaner once I get a block on it.


----------



## Knoxx29

Shawnb99 said:


> View attachment 2487634
> 
> This is my ghetto setup atm.
> Rather then lose a radiator for the stupid AIO, I made it work. I think the tape job adds real class to it.
> It’ll be cleaner once I get a block on it.


Which one from those in your Sig is your main Rig?


----------



## Shawnb99

Knoxx29 said:


> Which one from those in your Sig is your main Rig?


I need to update my sig, but I have to much stuff lol
I’ll fix that soon but full specs are under my showcase


----------



## J7SC

Shawnb99 said:


> Is the x64 the width of the radiators?


 yes


----------



## Knoxx29

The HardwareLabs, right?


----------



## J7SC

Knoxx29 said:


> The HardwareLabs, right?


yup, HardwareLabs Black Ice GTX Gen Two Extreme and Thermaltake Pacific CL 480s


----------



## Knoxx29

I Have been using the Black Ice Nemesis GTX version in different Builds and i am pretty happy with it.


----------



## Darb

On multiple wait lists for the Nemesis 560 GTX. Just heard from Performance PC it will be the end of May at the earliest. Been using Alphacool Nexxus rads lately so looking forward to seeing if there is a cooling improvement.


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> View attachment 2487634
> 
> This is my ghetto setup atm.
> Rather then lose a radiator for the stupid AIO, I made it work. I think the tape job adds real class to it.
> It’ll be cleaner once I get a block on it.


Shawn you can't be serious right now, I almost **** my pants when I saw the duct tape from laughing so hard.


----------



## Avacado

Darb said:


> On multiple wait lists for the Nemesis 560 GTX. Just heard from Performance PC it will be the end of May at the earliest. Been using Alphacool Nexxus rads lately so looking forward to seeing if there is a cooling improvement.


You're welcome.



Radiators, Mountain Mods


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> Shawn you can't be serious right now, I almost **** my pants when I saw the duct tape from laughing so hard.


***** you like that eh? I figured people would get a kick out of that lol


----------



## Leonko

Avacado said:


> You're welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators, Mountain Mods


there are Black Ice GTX and Black Ice Nemesis GTX. beware on that. Nemesis is what you what ...


----------



## Shawnb99

PSU side. Not too shabby but not good enough. I want it cleaner. We’ll see what I can do with custom cables.


----------



## J7SC

Knoxx29 said:


> I Have been using the Black Ice Nemesis GTX version in different Builds and i am pretty happy with it.


...all "push / pull"; 3x 10 slot pwm Sata fan hubs



Spoiler



...early stage during build-up...


----------



## Knoxx29

J7SC said:


> push / pull


I have been thinking about push/pull but another 300€ for fans + 120€/140€ for 2x Commander Pro makes it a little expensive


----------



## J7SC

Knoxx29 said:


> I have been thinking about push/pull but another 300€ for fans + 120€/140€ for 2x Commander Pro makes it a little expensive


...I have a fair number of fans like GentleTyphoon 3K rpm (love those), and 5K rpm expensive server fans, along with many others such as ML 120s, BeQuiet SilentWings (I'm in a computer-related field). For this build, I had heard very good things about the Arctic P pwm pst series, along with watching several trusted online reviews etc...so I tried out a few single P12s on one of my other systems first - they worked great. They are also affordable enough, at least in 5x value pack mode, to go push/pull at near-silent noise levels. 

With 24x pwm fans, Sata pwm fan hubs are a must as you don't want to daisy-chain all that w/o hubs onto a few mobo fan headers


----------



## Knoxx29

J7SC said:


> ...I have a fair number of fans like GentleTyphoon 3K rpm (love those), and 5K rpm expensive server fans, along with many others such as ML 120s, BeQuiet SilentWings (I'm in a computer-related field). For this build, I had heard very good things about the Arctic P pwm pst series, along with watching several trusted online reviews etc...so I tried out a few single P12s on one of my other systems first - they worked great. They are also affordable enough, at least in 5x value pack mode, to go push/pull at near-silent noise levels.
> 
> With 24x pwm fans, Sata pwm fan hubs are a must as you don't want to daisy-chain all that w/o hubs onto a few mobo fan headers
> 
> View attachment 2487768


Fans noise was never a probem for me so i used to use  Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000 PWM and Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-3000 PWM ( have a lot of both ) but with the time and getting older i prefer a Quiet PC.
As a rule i dont plug fans to my Motherboards, just the CPU one because i have to.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Shawnb99 said:


> *** you like that eh? I figured people would get a kick out of that lol


Hey you used the fancy black duct tape instead of the pleb silver stuff so I'd say it's a real professional job.


----------



## Shawnb99

Fluxmaven said:


> Hey you used the fancy black duct tape instead of the pleb silver stuff so I'd say it's a real professional job.


Actually it's gaffers tape. Duct tape leaves too much of a residue behind


----------



## GeneO

Shawnb99 said:


> Actually it's gaffers tape. Duct tape leaves too much of a residue behind


+1 on the gaffers. Only kind of such tape to use in your PC.


----------



## Darb

Avacado said:


> You're welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators, Mountain Mods


$120 USD for shipping. That is the reason why they still have stock. Thank you but I will wait for other stores that only charge $40 to ship.


----------



## Avacado

Darb said:


> $120 USD for shipping. That is the reason why they still have stock. Thank you but I will wait for other stores that only charge $40 to ship.


Sorry, literally just bought a case from them this week and the box weighs 33 lbs, it was only 50$ shipped. My bad dude. Thought it would be less.


----------



## Darb

Avacado said:


> Sorry, literally just bought a case from them this week and the box weighs 33 lbs, it was only 50$ shipped. My bad dude. Thought it would be less.
> View attachment 2487810


No problem. I live in Canada so that is why the shipping from them is so much. They actually want $145 as the least expensive shipping option. Plus as mentioned above they are not the Nemesis model. 
*Shipping Method*
*Please Select*
Please select the preferred shipping method to use on this order.

*FedEx (Total items: 1 pcs. Total weight: 30.80 lbs.)*







International Economy$309.33​International Priority$383.83​*United Parcel Service*







This module supports only xpci version 1.0001 of the UPS Rates Interface. Please contact the webmaster for additional assistance.
If you prefer to use UPS as your shipping method, please contact Mountain Mods via Email.*United States Postal Service 30 lbs, 12.8 oz*








Show International RegulationsPriority Mail International®$145.70​Priority Mail Express International™$207.70​
*Add Comments About Your Order*


----------



## Avacado

Darb said:


> No problem. I live in Canada so that is why the shipping from them is so much. They actually want $145 as the least expensive shipping option. Plus as mentioned above they are not the Nemesis model.
> *Shipping Method*
> *Please Select*
> Please select the preferred shipping method to use on this order.
> 
> *FedEx (Total items: 1 pcs. Total weight: 30.80 lbs.)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> International Economy$309.33​International Priority$383.83​*United Parcel Service*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This module supports only xpci version 1.0001 of the UPS Rates Interface. Please contact the webmaster for additional assistance.
> If you prefer to use UPS as your shipping method, please contact Mountain Mods via Email.*United States Postal Service 30 lbs, 12.8 oz*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Show International RegulationsPriority Mail International®$145.70​Priority Mail Express International™$207.70​
> *Add Comments About Your Order*


I would be curious why a rad package lists as 30 lbs.... weird.


----------



## Knoxx29

Avacado said:


> I would be curious why a rad package lists as 30 lbs.... weird.


Maybe they do it just to charge you extra cost?

Normally if i can i avoid buying stuff from outside Germany, only thing i buy from another Country is watercooling parts ( EKWB-Slovenia ) and last time ordered the Corsair Obsidian 1000D from England because it wasn't available in Germany, from USA a few SR-2 Classified Motherboards and that's all.


----------



## Darb

Avacado said:


> I would be curious why a rad package lists as 30 lbs.... weird.


It is for 2 560 rads.


----------



## J7SC

Avacado said:


> I would be curious why a rad package lists as 30 lbs.... weird.





Darb said:


> It is for 2 560 rads.


...may be they just have fixed prices for weight ranges, such as 15 - 30 lbs ? I recently took delivery of 2x TT Pacific CL 480s via Amazon, and the weight per rad package (printed right on the box) is 8 lbs...while 560s are slightly bigger, each CL 480s (copper, brass) also has five ports with extra associated hardware.


----------



## jamie1073

New case, new loop.


----------



## mouacyk

Feels bad for GPU.


----------



## jamie1073

mouacyk said:


> Feels bad for GPU.


 If your talking about mine, it is not water cooled since there is not a block for it. It is not a reference design. Not to mention I am hoping to get a 3080 or 6800XT when I can get one for near a sane price. For now the 2080 Super is fine on air.


----------



## Blindsay

Working on a new build (current build is in the picture). I wanted to merge my server and gaming PC into 1 case (smaller footprint and just seemed like a fun project. Also my smaller o11 is terrible for a storage case lol).

Ordered the Phanteks Enthoo Pro II. The gaming PC will move in pretty much as is (unless I get lucky and get a 3080 or 3090) and then the ITX system will be for my small unraid/plex box. Going to drop one of the 11th gen i5s to leverage the gpu for plex transcoding (I believe unraid is still waiting on an update to properly support the new igpu). The QL fans are all set to white (I know they have a blueish tint in the photo). The ITX system will also have the Trident z royal and instead of blue/white they will be purple/white. Purple/black for the 24pin and 8pin EPS cables. Purple liquid for the ITX system (it will be a dual loop). 

Havent figured out my pump/res setup yet. Will have an EK 60mm 480 in the front and I have a very slim 360 (20mm i think) for the top for the cpu only loop. I am thinking of either mounting a couple of the EK FLT D5 pump/res combos off of the front rad or pick up a pair of tube d5 res. Not sure on that yet

Little sad to give up my Corsair HX750i, didnt use it often but i liked seeing the real time power data from it. Grabbed the Phanteks Revolt X 1200W to run both systems


----------



## Knoxx29

Avacado said:


> I want to hardline that build for you so badly right now. That distro plate on the side is throwing me off, what is it's purpose exactly? If you eliminate those seemingly unneeded runs, I bet your flow will double. It looks like you are running one pump and I bet you need that extra flow.
> 
> View attachment 2485805


Better or worse than before?


----------



## Avacado

Knoxx29 said:


> Better or worse than before?
> View attachment 2489017


Looks good, you tell me, is the flow better or worse? I would shorten that tube going from GPU to rad. But otherwise very clean.


----------



## Knoxx29

Avacado said:


> Looks good, you tell me, is the flow better or worse? I would shorten that tube going from GPU to rad. But otherwise very clean.


The flow is better. 
in a few days i will re-apply the thermal paste, will take a few minutes to shorten the tube.


----------



## c3LaL35




----------



## ssgwright

not a fan of all the fittings, don't like bending tubes?


----------



## Insidious Supra

Got 'er cleaned up a bit


----------



## Avacado

c3LaL35 said:


> View attachment 2489225
> View attachment 2489226
> View attachment 2489227
> View attachment 2489228
> View attachment 2489229


Holy 90 degrees Batman. Is that an M.2. Block I see?


----------



## c3LaL35

[QUOTE = "Avacado, gönderi: 28787216, üye: 32877"]
Kutsal 90 derece Batman. Bu bir M.2 mi? Görüyorum engel mi?
[/ ALINTI]
Yes


----------



## dwolvin

@Insidious Supra Looks much nicer! What's the CPU block?


----------



## Insidious Supra

dwolvin said:


> @Insidious Supra Looks much nicer! What's the CPU block?


Thanks 🙂

It's just an arctic 280mm aio with vrm fan. I had purchased the gpu WC parts prior for an old rig, but it died when parts were en route, and still did not arrive by the time I was able to build a new pc, otherwise I likely would have made a single custom loop for both processors and used larger rads. Gpu has 2x 120mm rads.

But I do like the way it turned out space-wise, and it is very effective...


----------



## dwolvin

Ah, gotcha!


----------



## criss100

Mi deskmodhttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/6092b3397dfc7/VID_20210423_212702_0_COMPRESSED.mp4

Enviado desde mi MI 9 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## dwolvin

Can you try again? That cloud.tapatalk link freaks out my security settings...


----------



## Fluxmaven

ssgwright said:


> not a fan of all the fittings, don't like bending tubes?


I'm also not a fan of all the fittings. There is a lot of nice hardware, I just think it would look tidier with at least a few of the tubes bent. Having floating fittings in the middle of longer runs just looks off to me. 

Also the hard drive waterblock is pretty comical


----------



## iAmCodeMonkey




----------



## inedenimadam

Water Cooled Server Rack Updated!
2 loops, 3 PCs (waiting on parts for 3rd).

PC 1:
10900k delidded and naked w/LM
3090 Kingpin with hydrocopper block
MORA-3 in push/pull

PC2:
10700k delidded and naked w/LM
3090 Trinity on EK block and active water backplate
360 EK fatty radiator (older rad, cant remember model) in push pull

PC3:
11400k stock air
3070 Ventus 3x stock air
(waiting on case and gpu block)


----------



## Fluxmaven

inedenimadam said:


> Water Cooled Server Rack Updated!


I think we're going to need more photos of this sweet setup. 

Also the wallpaper is great 😸


----------



## ChrisZski

Finally got the new setup finished


----------



## inedenimadam

Fluxmaven said:


> I think we're going to need more photos of this sweet setup.
> 
> Also the wallpaper is great 😸


It is a work in progress. You can see the 3070 rig right behind the Xbox controllers isn't in a case. It's actually a mitx board with low so trying to find a 2U rack case that I can shove a 240 radiator in, otherwise I'll just throw it in another 4U. Allot of things are just kind of resting, and aren't hard mounted, and are resting on a small amount of cork board to minimize audible vibrations. Im kind of new to 3d printing and design, and all I've managed to complete from scratch is a few cable management clips and 2.5 SSD mounts. Needless to say, server racks are not exactly designed with radiators in mind, so I still need to design and print some mounts for the 360 radiator in the 10700k/3090 rack, and definitely something to hard mount the behemoth MORA-3 directly to rack. Hidden behind the Quest 2 up top is also a network switch and wifi 6 access point. 

Let me know if you want to see anything specific or close up. It's not exactly a masterpiece, but it's slowly getting better.


----------



## Fluxmaven

It's just nice to see something out of the ordinary. This is something I would like to do in the future.

Koolance actually makes some liquid cooling systems that are rack mountable. Essentially just an enclosure with a large radiator mounted horizontally with a pump. After seeing those, it put me onto the idea of doing a liquid cooled rack.

Similar to your setup, I'd want to just fab up a mount to use my MO-RA3.


----------



## Lobstar

Here is my hot mess:









Chia miner: 3950x under EKWB monoblock, 128gb Corsair ram, C8H mobo, 3.84TB Samsung NF1 NVME, 3.2TB Fusion IO PCIe NVME, 52TB spinny bois. No rads. 









5950x under Optimus Foundation, 4x8GB Viper Steel 4400CL19 @ 3800CL16 under EKWB Monarch, Dark Hero, EVGA 3090 FTW3U under Optimus Absolute, 1TB 980 Pro + 2TB WD Blue, 2x Monsta 480, EKWB D5 Dual XTOP, 12x 140mm Noctua Industrial 3krpm, 2x 120mm Noctua Industrial 3krpm.









MORA 3 420 Pro, Ubiquiti Unifi Dream Machine Pro, Ubiquiti USW-Pro-24-PoE switch, 1300va UPS, Ubiquiti AP, Little Giant 581503 Pump 









AC on the extension cord running to another room because if I run it while mining I trip a breaker. Stupid apartments.


----------



## ssgwright

nice set ups!


----------



## Shawnb99

inedenimadam said:


> Let me know if you want to see anything specific or close up. It's not exactly a masterpiece, but it's slowly getting better.


I want to see it all. Take as many as you can. I'm very interested in how you get this all together and might have to copy you.


----------



## Henry Owens

Finally getting close to being happy with my first custom watercooling build! The only part I feel like changing is possibly changing the long tube on the front of the case to a clean straight hard tube.































5900x
6900xt 
32gb 3800mhz 1:1 
Aorus x570 master


----------



## Fluxmaven

Damn she thicc


----------



## TeslaHUN

I know its not ideal , but how bad idea is to use 2 different fans on a push/pull rad ? On 360*30 and 480*45mm thick rads . For RGB bling I would use Scythe Kaze Flex RGB *800rpm *version on push side (low static pressure fan) but Arctic P12 pwm around 800-900 rpm on pull side . ( I already have the fans )


----------



## dwolvin

It's not going to kill anything, the worst that will probably happen is that the lower flow fan will be contributing little to nothing. Try it and if it sounds terrible, go to just pull on the Arctics.


----------



## Henry Owens

TeslaHUN said:


> I know its not ideal , but how bad idea is to use 2 different fans on a push/pull rad ? On 360*30 and 480*45mm thick rads . For RGB bling I would use Scythe Kaze Flex RGB *800rpm *version on push side (low static pressure fan) but Arctic P12 pwm around 800-900 rpm on pull side . ( I already have the fans )


Won't be effective unless they are all the same rpm and airflow


----------



## TeslaHUN

dwolvin said:


> not going to kill anything, the worst that will probably happen is that the lower flow fan will be contributing little to nothing. Try it and if it sounds terrible, go to just pull on the Arctics.


Thats not an option, i want RGB . So if they wont work together , i will just use the weak Scythe airflow push fans on the rads.


----------



## Insidious Supra

To each his own


----------



## Lobstar

TeslaHUN said:


> Thats not an option, i want RGB . So if they wont work together , i will just use the weak Scythe airflow push fans on the rads.


Why watercool if you don't care about the cooling? Resell the crap fans and get RGB ones that will actually work or add RGB halos to non-RGB fans that will work. Seems silly to sacrifice the entire point of your loop for shiny lights. It's even more silly when considering you are asking about another pump before fixing your fan issues.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Lobstar said:


> Why watercool if you don't care about the cooling? Resell the crap fans and get RGB ones that will actually work or add RGB halos to non-RGB fans that will work. Seems silly to sacrifice the entire point of your loop for shiny lights. It's even more silly when considering you are asking about another pump before fixing your fan issues.


I care about cooling too ofc. IM still on aircooling ,building wc in 1 month or so. Cooling wont be issue since I Will use 480+360 rads for 500w (3080 + 5900x). And RGB is imporant so much since this build Will be a showcase Lian li deskpc .


----------



## Lobstar

TeslaHUN said:


> I care about cooling too ofc. IM still on aircooling ,building wc in 1 month or so. Cooling wont be issue since I Will use 480+360 rads for 500w (3080 + 5900x). And RGB is imporant so much since this build Will be a showcase Lian li deskpc .


I'm looking forward to the many "why are my temps so high" threads you will post.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Lobstar said:


> I'm looking forward to the many "why are my temps so high" threads you will post.


Hehe we will see, im not worried about temps at all with7x120 mm rad surface . Just never tried different fans for P/P . I was curious if somebody tried it . Probably they will sound terrible. Sound is more important for me. I dont mind if the water temp is 35C instead of 32. 👍


----------



## Shawnb99

TeslaHUN said:


> Hehe we will see, im not worried about temps at all with7x120 mm rad surface . Just never tried different fans for P/P . I was curious if somebody tried it . Probably they will sound terrible. Sound is more important for me. I dont mind if the water temp is 35C instead of 32. 👍


Adding more radiator space isn't a cure all for temp issues. You still need to keep them cool no matter how many you add.


----------



## Henry Owens

TeslaHUN said:


> I care about cooling too ofc. IM still on aircooling ,building wc in 1 month or so. Cooling wont be issue since I Will use 480+360 rads for 500w (3080 + 5900x). And RGB is imporant so much since this build Will be a showcase Lian li deskpc .


With my bottom radiators I was able to save a slight amount by going ml 120 non rgb below and ml 120 pro white led on top. They are the same rpm range. Still kinda wish I went for the white ones on bottom also though.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Shawnb99 said:


> Adding more radiator space isn't a cure all for temp issues. You still need to keep them cool no matter how many you add.


Depends how many you add.
With my latest WC system where I had huge radiator surface ,i was able to achive 25-26C water temp on load (24C ambient) with low rpm fans (500W load ) . (20cm Thermaltake 450rpm / 20cm Noctua below 500rpm )
YT video (temps during benchmark)


----------



## Shawnb99

TeslaHUN said:


> Depends how many you add.
> With my latest WC system where I had huge radiator surface ,i was able to achive 25-26C water temp on load (24C ambient) with low rpm fans (500W load ) . (20cm Thermaltake 450rpm / 20cm Noctua below 500rpm )
> YT video (temps during benchmark)


As I said you still need the fans to keep it cool. Adding radiator space isn’t enough.


----------



## Zogge

Question to the experts.

I have 2 x D5 Ultitube next pump-reservoir combos. Would it make any sense to have a setup below with the reservoir in tube nr 2 filled to max as a result, but will the pressure hold (for reservoir 2) or will it start to leak you think ? Pressure is max 800 mbar in the loop.

reservoir 1 -> pump -> reservoir 2 -> pump -> loop with components and rads then back to reservoir 1


----------



## Shawnb99

Zogge said:


> Question to the experts.
> 
> I have 2 x D5 Ultitube next pump-reservoir combos. Would it make any sense to have a setup below with the reservoir in tube nr 2 filled to max as a result, but will the pressure hold (for reservoir 2) or will it start to leak you think ? Pressure is max 800 mbar in the loop.
> 
> reservoir 1 -> pump -> reservoir 2 -> pump -> loop with components and rads then back to reservoir 1


What do you mean start to leak? Do you mean the pressure equalizer thingy on the top? No water will not leak from there. I have my two Ulititube’s hooked up directly to each other. While the pressure difference won’t allow both to have the same level, neither does it cause the first to leak if the water level reaches the top. 
So no need to split them up unless you want to


----------



## Zogge

I meant tube 2 to leak somewhere if pressure is built up and it is closed on top, not using the pressure thingy you mention. But ok, I will try then thanks!


----------



## blitzraider

Hi, so someone here told me y'all have an active group here. I'm posting an amusing photo from my early days if that's allowed. I still can't figure out what was growing in my loop. At the time, the liquid has been sitting for a while. Pretty sure it's not plasticizer. Any ideas?

What was growing in my loop??? - Imgur


----------



## Lobstar

blitzraider said:


> Hi, so someone here told me y'all have an active group here. I'm posting an amusing photo from my early days if that's allowed. I still can't figure out what was growing in my loop. At the time, the liquid has been sitting for a while. Pretty sure it's not plasticizer. Any ideas?
> 
> What was growing in my loop??? - Imgur
> View attachment 2512290


Looks like dead algae.


----------



## Questors

Lobstar said:


> Looks like dead algae.


It's not dead. It certainly isn't as active as it used to be. Many people, like myself, log in, read and log out if there is nothing to which we feel the need to respond or having nothing to add of value.

Changing platforms several times hasn't helped. Also over the last few years, the insanity of first crazy RAM prices, followed by insane SSD prices and then CPU and GPU unavailability has certainly cooled enthusiasm for PC building. Toss in the corona virus, as well as other factors not mentioned, and we have a full multi-year formula for decline. 

I have been in the process of slowly building my first SFF PC with a custom water cooled loop. It was brought to a screeching halt over the lack of component availability. I did finally manage to land a 5900X at retail price recently. Despite this, my enthusiasm has also tanked. The project was a slow developing build, true. Slow is one thing. Not moving at all ifor over a year (with no GPU availability in sight) is another school of fish entirely. The final straw for me was being given the honor  of having permission from Newegg to be allowed the gracious privilege to pay them $1600.00 for a 6700XT with a low budget B550 board. No thanks. Unless something amazing happens soon, this project will be cancelled and sale begins after an upcoming vacation.

Criminals on EBay aren't helping. Prior to the last few months, I have had 1 issue in several decades buying and selling there. I now have had to open cases in 3 of four purchases for items being misrepresented. Two were listed as new that weren't, both were also broken (not from shipping). The third was item never received. Buying a GPU on eBay is our if the question.

Circumstances like these have people thinking about and doing other things.


----------



## MNMadman

Questors said:


> It's not dead. It certainly isn't as active as it used to be. Many people, like myself, log in, read and log out if there is nothing to which we feel the need to respond or having nothing to add of value.
> 
> Changing platforms several times hasn't helped. Also over the last few years, the insanity of first crazy RAM prices, followed by insane SSD prices and then CPU and GPU unavailability has certainly cooled enthusiasm for PC building. Toss in the corona virus, as well as other factors not mentioned, and we have a full multi-year formula for decline.
> 
> I have been in the process of slowly building my first SFF PC with a custom water cooled loop. It was brought to a screeching halt over the lack of component availability. I did finally manage to land a 5900X at retail price recently. Despite this, my enthusiasm has also tanked. The project was a slow developing build, true. Slow is one thing. Not moving at all ifor over a year (with no GPU availability in sight) is another school of fish entirely. The final straw for me was being given the honor  of having permission from Newegg to be allowed the gracious privilege to pay them $1600.00 for a 6700XT with a low budget B550 board. No thanks. Unless something amazing happens soon, this project will be cancelled and sale begins after an upcoming vacation.
> 
> Criminals on EBay aren't helping. Prior to the last few months, I have had 1 issue in several decades buying and selling there. I now have had to open cases in 3 of four purchases for items being misrepresented. Two were listed as new that weren't, both were also broken (not from shipping). The third was item never received. Buying a GPU on eBay is our if the question.
> 
> Circumstances like these have people thinking about and doing other things.


lol

blitzraider was asking what was in the loop.

Lobstar answered that it looks like dead algae. They did not mean that the forum was dead.


----------



## selvakumar

my custom loop please like and share


https://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=40282


----------



## Avacado

selvakumar said:


> my custom loop please like and share
> 
> 
> https://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=40282


Like and share? Great looking dual loop build, but this isn't Instagram.


----------



## selvakumar

cool


----------



## blitzraider

MNMadman said:


> lol
> 
> blitzraider was asking what was in the loop.
> 
> Lobstar answered that it looks like dead algae. They did not mean that the forum was dead.


LoL I read the whole soliloquy and while I agree with most of it, it felt like a copypasta.


----------



## Questors

MNMadman said:


> lol
> 
> blitzraider was asking what was in the loop.
> 
> Lobstar answered that it looks like dead algae. They did not mean that the forum was dead.


Oh.  Well uh, that's what I meant too. Yeah, that's the ticket.


----------



## Insidious Supra

Questors said:


> Criminals on EBay aren't helping. Prior to the last few months, I have had 1 issue in several decades buying and selling there. I now have had to open cases in 3 of four purchases for items being misrepresented. Two were listed as new that weren't, both were also broken (not from shipping). The third was item never received. Buying a GPU on eBay is our if the question.
> 
> Circumstances like these have people thinking about and doing other things.


First of all, my loop looked the same. I used a loop prep product, and didn't flush %100 of it back out. Was told it wouldn't be an issue. Well, the stuff is abrassive. Anyamount of it. So, my loop got filled with plastic residue I believe. Was a royal pain to clean, but clean I did. Has been crystal clear for some time now. Just using distilled water and a silver kill coil.

Also, in reguards to ebay.... I'm on there a LOT, and I just built an entire rig from almost exclusively secondhand parts from there. Save the case, ram, and cooling solutions. CPU, PSU, GPU, MOBO all second hand, and all in top notch shape. Most criminal behavior I've seen lately has been from the USPS. Mis-handling, damaging, losing items like crazy this year.


----------



## Lobstar

Questors said:


> Oh.  Well uh, that's what I meant too. Yeah, that's the ticket.


I made a four word post and you failed to read 25% of it. LOL. Everything alright mate? Smoke a bowl and relax ...


----------



## Questors

Insidious Supra said:


> First of all, my loop looked the same. I used a loop prep product, and didn't flush %100 of it back out. Was told it wouldn't be an issue. Well, the stuff is abrassive. Anyamount of it. So, my loop got filled with plastic residue I believe. Was a royal pain to clean, but clean I did. Has been crystal clear for some time now. Just using distilled water and a silver kill coil.
> 
> Also, in reguards to ebay.... I'm on there a LOT, and I just built an entire rig from almost exclusively secondhand parts from there. Save the case, ram, and cooling solutions. CPU, PSU, GPU, MOBO all second hand, and all in top notch shape. Most criminal behavior I've seen lately has been from the USPS. Mis-handling, damaging, losing items like crazy this year.


I am very happy to hear you have had no trouble on Ebay. I have several recently after not having a single problem for decades. The latest problem was a fight from start to finish. Thought a lawyer may be necessary to solve the problem. Thankfully, sense and justice prevailed. 



Lobstar said:


> I made a four word post and you failed to read 25% of it. LOL. Everything alright mate? Smoke a bowl and relax ...


I actually did read it. I think catching up on a dozen pages of content had me combining parts of different posts. Maybe I needed more  . Some of both? At least, that's my story and I am sticking to it!


----------



## Fluxmaven

Lol I need to stop getting on eBay... I buy stuff on there all the time. Mostly liquid cooling stuff since it has such a terrible resale value. At least 80% of the dozen or so radiators I have in my various systems are from there. Just blitz em and go. 

It is definitely a buyers market though. I would never sell a high value item like a GPU there. Too many people abuse the fact that Paypal/eBay will always side with the buyer in a dispute.


----------



## dwolvin

^this. I have used EBay for a long time, and will still buy cheap motorcycle parts there sometimes, but I'm not selling anything of value there any more. My last straw was a motherboard that the buyer started a ticket with despite is being sold no warranty and shipped in original box- idiot admitted after a week of back and forth that the test bench monitor was unplugged. Glad it was over but I shouldn't have been troubleshooting remote for days.


----------



## jon666

Woopsforgotoldblockleaks.jpg




__
jon666


__
Jun 4, 2021




Hope it works, if not draining the whole loop and filling the whole channel for that wire with...





On top of learning why people shy away from going full crazy straw with PETG, I remembered a little late that old CPU block has a small leak from led wire and top intake somewhere. 

If this doesn't work I will have to razor it off and force silicone in through the top til the wire channel is full maybe. Or rip the wire and fill.


----------



## dwolvin

Why not just pick up a cheap Blyski/Whatever the other cheap ChinaCo block is? I think they hover at around $35...


----------



## Fluxmaven

Well since they went hard line, they would need to redo their tubing runs since most blocks don't have their ports in the exact same place.

That said, I wouldn't risk a leaky block right over my GPU given how hard it would be to get a decent replacement. New CPU block and a few minutes re-bending would be worth it for the peace of mind.


----------



## jon666

Probably correct on replacement but that feels wasteful. I might try and find just the acrylic replacement, I don't think those are sold separate even as is. Or find something that is 99% copper and polish it til it looks like a bulb in the camera(cause bare metal always looks badass). Also have plenty of PETG leftover, enough to maybe add spirals everywhere like I want.

I want at least one crazy test tube looking spiral somewhere, already tried to make the top look like an exhaust manifold, maybe those will also get replaced after I figure out spirals. Thinking a fat 2" PVC pipe, or a clean tin can since those are ribbed which could help hold the spiral in place while the pipe cools. Wild imaginations aside, nothing else leaks, including the heater core hanging in the front. I should find a block that looks automotive.


----------



## Avacado

jon666 said:


> Probably correct on replacement but that feels wasteful. I might try and find just the acrylic replacement, I don't think those are sold separate even as is. Or find something that is 99% copper and polish it til it looks like a bulb in the camera(cause bare metal always looks badass). Also have plenty of PETG leftover, enough to maybe add spirals everywhere like I want.
> 
> I want at least one crazy test tube looking spiral somewhere, already tried to make the top look like an exhaust manifold, maybe those will also get replaced after I figure out spirals. Thinking a fat 2" PVC pipe, or a clean tin can since those are ribbed which could help hold the spiral in place while the pipe cools. Wild imaginations aside, nothing else leaks, including the heater core hanging in the front. I should find a block that looks automotive.


Not much to figure out, these work extremely well, just need to find the right size for your PETG.









Amazon.com: Bykski Rigid Tubing Spiral Bending Kit - 14mm OD (B-STC-S): Computers & Accessories


Buy Bykski Rigid Tubing Spiral Bending Kit - 14mm OD (B-STC-S): Water Cooling Systems - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## jon666

Avacado said:


> Not much to figure out, these work extremely well, just need to find the right size for your PETG.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Bykski Rigid Tubing Spiral Bending Kit - 14mm OD (B-STC-S): Computers & Accessories
> 
> 
> Buy Bykski Rigid Tubing Spiral Bending Kit - 14mm OD (B-STC-S): Water Cooling Systems - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


That mandrel looks rad but now I am eyeballing the Apogee SKF heirloom block with the red options (mmm...)for my 1700x, or sticking with the same XL for fifty dollars. The SKF looks so good.

The weekend has me wanting to toss this thing back together and get back to fragging.


----------



## Henry Owens

Ok final(hopefully) renovations done and I am happy with it! Maybe just fix the gpu sag a little. 
Added ssd block and second d5 pump in the back of the case.


----------



## Bart

I just joined the TechN club too, and installed a filter just for giggles:



















Also flipped my bottom rad fans from intake to exhaust for a test:


----------



## KShirza1

RTX 3080 Ti. Did some loop bypass surgery until I decide to get a block. Really wanted to power my 48” cx oled via hdmi 2.1 ASAP. Retired old man 2080 Ti.


----------



## jon666

My current loop til shiney swiftech block comes in.


----------



## Henry Owens

Bart said:


> I just joined the TechN club too, and installed a filter just for giggles:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also flipped my bottom rad fans from intake to exhaust for a test:


That's the filter I would get but it seems very awkward to find a spot to mount.


----------



## Bart

Henry Owens said:


> That's the filter I would get but it seems very awkward to find a spot to mount.


It is indeed. It's TERRIBLY designed, and as expected drastically cuts down your flow rate. The ports are so close together there's barely any room for putting the fittings on. I used two slim Bitspower 90s and I had to ruin my fingers installing the 2nd one, since there isn't enough space between the ports to screw the fitting down normally, so you have to rotate the fitting body, ugh! My fingers were RUINED after that, LOL!


----------



## Henry Owens

Bart said:


> It is indeed. It's TERRIBLY designed, and as expected drastically cuts down your flow rate. The ports are so close together there's barely any room for putting the fittings on. I used two slim Bitspower 90s and I had to ruin my fingers installing the 2nd one, since there isn't enough space between the ports to screw the fitting down normally, so you have to rotate the fitting body, ugh! My fingers were RUINED after that, LOL!


Wow really drastically reducing flow? Do you know how much? I have no flow meters and even with a fair amount of 90degree fittings I think my flow is really fast with two d5 pumps


----------



## Bart

Henry Owens said:


> Wow really drastically reducing flow? Do you know how much? I have no flow meters and even with a fair amount of 90degree fittings I think my flow is really fast with two d5 pumps


Well in my case it's hard to say exactly, since I installed the filter AND switched from the Optimus to the TechN block at the same time. But my flow rate was 200l/h with the old setup, 160l/h with the new, with a D5 vario at full speed. Near as I can tell, this has not negatively impacted temperatures at all, temps are great.


----------



## Henry Owens

Bart said:


> Well in my case it's hard to say exactly, since I installed the filter AND switched from the Optimus to the TechN block at the same time. But my flow rate was 200l/h with the old setup, 160l/h with the new, with a D5 vario at full speed. Near as I can tell, this has not negatively impacted temperatures at all, temps are great.


Wow you went from Optimus to the TechN.. I went from the ek quantum to TechN. Looking at the pictures the Optimus seems really high quality and many large fins. The offset jetplate on the TechN is what sold me.


----------



## Shawnb99

Henry Owens said:


> Wow really drastically reducing flow? Do you know how much? I have no flow meters and even with a fair amount of 90degree fittings I think my flow is really fast with two d5 pumps


In my loop it dropped flow from 2.0GPM to 1.6GPM.


----------



## jamie1073

Finally found a water block for my MSI 2080 Super Ventus card.


----------



## Henry Owens

Bart said:


> I just joined the TechN club too, and installed a filter just for giggles:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also flipped my bottom rad fans from intake to exhaust for a test:


Has the filter caught anything?


----------



## dwolvin

jamie1073 said:


> Finally found a water block for my MSI 2080 Super Ventus card.
> View attachment 2513363


OK, you can't lead with that and not tell us who made your video card block! Nice rig, BTW.


----------



## Bart

Henry Owens said:


> Has the filter caught anything?


I haven't emptied it yet, but it looks like there might be _some_ little bits. This is a very well used loop though, so I wouldn't expect there to be much if any.


----------



## jamie1073

dwolvin said:


> OK, you can't lead with that and not tell us who made your video card block! Nice rig, BTW.


It is the Bitspower Brizo VGA Water Block for MSI GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER VENTUS XS OC, I got it from NewEgg. And thanks, it has taken a few cases, boards and CPU's to get to where I want it and I still want a new GPU. But for now since I found the block for the GPU it will do until prices drop.


----------



## jon666

Everything is almost ready to go back together.


----------



## grazz1984

Mxj1 said:


> I'm up and running in my W1. 2x 280mm rads in an itx case with exceptional air flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm testing the apogee right now. I'll be switching in my sig v2 shortly.


Love this, So clean


----------



## Henry Owens

grazz1984 said:


> Love this, So clean


Maybe I will do a mini someday but that's some advanced level stuff!


----------



## felix121

....


----------



## dwolvin

Wrong thread for that question, make a new one.


----------



## KShirza1

Block in for 3080 Ti!


----------



## KShirza1

Matching cpu block for the 3080 Ti block. Ready to rebuild my water cooling and cool down the gpu!


----------



## KShirza1

RTX 3080 Ti FE


----------



## Shawnb99

Back up and running again 









Very impressed with my cable routing. Very clean for 6 pumps and 65 fans and 11 devices connected to USB.









External temps are 24.8 and the water is actually reading about .1 degrees lower. Has to be an accuracy issue.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Shawnb99 said:


> Back up and running again
> 
> View attachment 2514081
> 
> Very impressed with my cable routing. Very clean for 6 pumps and 65 fans and 11 devices connected to USB.
> 
> View attachment 2514082
> 
> External temps are 24.8 and the water is actually reading about .1 degrees lower. Has to be an accuracy issue.


More pictures pls !!
You coool only the CPU with 65 fan and 6pump ????


----------



## Shawnb99

TeslaHUN said:


> More pictures pls !!
> You coool only the CPU with 65 fan and 6pump ????


Yeah atm only just the CPU. Have 2x 560's, 3x 480's and a 360 all HWL GTX's and a 360 GTS as well. All in push/pull. Am waiting on Optimus for a block for my KPE. Hence the ghetto rig of gaffer tape

Well 64 fans atm, am missing a 40mm since it gets in the way of installing the GPU so that will go in once I get the block


----------



## dwolvin

That is insane. I love it.


----------



## KShirza1

Did a bypass to run my old 3080 on air while I put together my 3080 Ti. Caselabs s8s and noctua industrial 3k fans with white rubber kit. Temps on these cards are high!

Build log


----------



## kratosatlante

Shawnb99 said:


> Back up and running again
> 
> View attachment 2514081
> 
> Very impressed with my cable routing. Very clean for 6 pumps and 65 fans and 11 devices connected to USB.
> 
> View attachment 2514082
> 
> External temps are 24.8 and the water is actually reading about .1 degrees lower. Has to be an accuracy issue.


impresive, the case is?


----------



## felix121

...


----------



## felix121

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah atm only just the CPU. Have 2x 560's, 3x 480's and a 360 all HWL GTX's and a 360 GTS as well. All in push/pull. Am waiting on Optimus for a block for my KPE. Hence the ghetto rig of gaffer tape
> 
> Well 64 fans atm, am missing a 40mm since it gets in the way of installing the GPU so that will go in once I get the block


...


----------



## Shawnb99

kratosatlante said:


> impresive, the case is?


It's a Caselabs TH10 with a pedestal


----------



## felix121

....


----------



## blitzraider

Um y'all, what in tarnation is this in my loop? I just recently cleaned the blocks, flushed, and added new coolant.


----------



## KShirza1

Plumbing up the card. Interested to see thermals compared to my outgoing 2080 Ti on ek blocks. Such a good looking block…


----------



## dwolvin

blitzraider said:


> Um y'all, what in tarnation is this in my loop? I just recently cleaned the blocks, flushed, and added new coolant.
> View attachment 2514329
> View attachment 2514332


Honestly not sure, probably a little bit of old coolant and cleaner (or new coolant) not playing nice. I'd ignore it if it doesn't change size would be my advice...


----------



## Raul-7

Shame EK doesn't plan on making an active backplate for the 3080//3080 Ti FE.


----------



## HITTI

Do you guys have your radiators & fans to bring air in the case to make positive pressure?

I have a ek pe 240 and another coming, im gonna use both in my corsair 750d. I have 4 fans bring air in, then 2 more for rad 1 to bring air in and thinking rad 2 bring air in as well. 

I have EK-KIT P240 Premium Watercooler Kit on the way.

I'll be cooling just the cpu which is i5-10600k. And maybe looking into m.2 ssd waterblock if some sort for my sk gold p31 m.2 ssd.


----------



## dwolvin

You might need to sketch that out, but assuming that you are going to have both radiators mounted with fans pushing air through the rads and into the case, a single exhaust would probably be enough, and the case will have positive pressure pressure... I'd skip the block for the SSD, a basic heatsink is enough, and they like a little heat (if I remember correctly it's 70-90F that they want).


----------



## HITTI

dwolvin said:


> You might need to sketch that out, but assuming that you are going to have both radiators mounted with fans pushing air through the rads and into the case, a single exhaust would probably be enough, and the case will have positive pressure pressure... I'd skip the block for the SSD, a basic heatsink is enough, and they like a little heat (if I remember correctly it's 70-90F that they want).


I dont know how to sketch. I have a choice of the 2nd rad for my corsair 750d, on the bottom or front on inside the case.


----------



## dwolvin

I prefer rads as intakes, and would go front and bottom, for ease of filling and bleeding... But whatever floats your boat! Also- look for filters or easy access to clean- mine need it often (dusty area and pets).


----------



## KShirza1

HITTI said:


> Do you guys have your radiators & fans to bring air in the case to make positive pressure?.


Like a car or whatever rad always intakes.


----------



## gtz

Just finished with my 3 360mm rad loop. All three rads are dedicated to my lovely little heat monster that is my 9980XE. I also ran all tubes on the back of the motherboard tray. Really love this look, at first glance you can't even tell I have a 360mm rad let alone 3.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Looks good! Any pics of the other side? I'm curious how it all comes together.


----------



## gtz

Fluxmaven said:


> Looks good! Any pics of the other side? I'm curious how it all comes together.


I did not take pics, but it is messy lol. 

Here are some close ups.

The bottom rad










Top rad









Vertical rad










I got the idea after I saw a YouTuber do the it. Just loved the look.


----------



## dwolvin

Oh, I didn't even notice that the pump (and res) is on the back also. Nice!


----------



## Wihglah

Whoever said water cooling ram was pointless, has never done it.


----------



## KShirza1

Wihglah said:


> Whoever said water cooling ram was pointless, has never done it.


Now we’re talking. More pics?


----------



## gtz

dwolvin said:


> Oh, I didn't even notice that the pump (and res) is on the back also. Nice!


Yeah, my buddy came over once I finished and thought I was running an AIO. I told him I would like to see a AIO that can dissipate around 700 watts of heat. Sadly my 9980XE is kicking my ass


----------



## Wihglah

KShirza1 said:


> Now we’re talking. More pics?


Case Modding:
















Upper rad box:








Lower Rad box with push/pull:








RGB:
















also - so many rads they are bursting out of the case:








Also push /pull








23 fans in total - all running from motherboard fan headers.


----------



## HITTI

Wihglah said:


> Case Modding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upper rad box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lower Rad box with push/pull:
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> RGB:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also - so many rads they are bursting out of the case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also push /pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 23 fans in total - all running from motherboard fan headers.


I'd like to see a video of inside going out and around that would be awesome.


----------



## KShirza1

Wihglah said:


> Case Modding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upper rad box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Lower Rad box with push/pull:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RGB:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also - so many rads they are bursting out of the case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also push /pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 23 fans in total - all running from motherboard fan headers.


Very nice sir. I was concerned for a sec people were going all out on just cpu loops. Good work!!


----------



## KShirza1

Waiting on a RGB hub to cleanup, but the ek fe block looks cool with the lights on.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah it does! Are you going to go white light to fit the scheme of the fittings?


----------



## KShirza1

My RGB hub is taking its time in shipping so no psu rgb or light strips on aura, but the blocks lights are on and I'm really loving the look. White fittings and sleeving pick up colors well. With the led strips and the panels back on they will blend in with any color.






This is what the case put back together looks like.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! And I hear you, I'm doing pale blue lighting on a white P3 with primarily black and white parts to cover the lack of white balance. Wish more LED controls get us the full colorwheel adjustment. Last build I had to settle on Razor green or pale blue, but those both look pretty good...


----------



## mxthunder

Bad pic, but latest version of my loop


----------



## Dash8Q4

Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL light tempered glass. Just moved my system into this case a couple of days ago and am loving it. Lots of room and temps are much better than in my BeQuiet Dark Base 700.
3700X 
3080 FTW3
Up top is a Bykski 420mm rad. Front and bottom are 280mm Alphacool rads, one 30mm and one 45mm. Bykski flow meter and CPU block. Barrow GPU block and D5 pump inside an IceManCooler reservoir.
Enjoy


----------



## ssgwright

Dash8Q4 said:


> Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL light tempered glass. Just moved my system into this case a couple of days ago and am loving it. Lots of room and temps are much better than in my BeQuiet Dark Base 700.
> 3700X
> 3080 FTW3
> Up top is a Bykski 420mm rad. Front and bottom are 280mm Alphacool rads, one 30mm and one 45mm. Bykski flow meter and CPU block. Barrow GPU block and D5 pump inside an IceManCooler reservoir.
> Enjoy
> View attachment 2515304
> View attachment 2515305
> View attachment 2515306


dude this is probably my favorite builds posted in these forums over the past couple of years!! it's sick! your bends and the the symmetry!! awesome job!


----------



## blitzraider

Dash8Q4 said:


> Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL light tempered glass. Just moved my system into this case a couple of days ago and am loving it. Lots of room and temps are much better than in my BeQuiet Dark Base 700.
> 3700X
> 3080 FTW3
> Up top is a Bykski 420mm rad. Front and bottom are 280mm Alphacool rads, one 30mm and one 45mm. Bykski flow meter and CPU block. Barrow GPU block and D5 pump inside an IceManCooler reservoir.
> Enjoy


Does it mess with the fans to have a radiator only in front 2 of the 3 in the front?


----------



## dwolvin

Shouldn't much...


----------



## Dash8Q4

ssgwright said:


> dude this is probably my favorite builds posted in these forums over the past couple of years!! it's sick! your bends and the the symmetry!! awesome job!


oh man thank you for that. I came off a smaller case with ****ty airflow and now my coolant doesn't get past 33C. I did a lot of browsing for photos here and around the web trying to find some Meshify 2 XL loops. In the end it turned out great and I went thru like ten 50cm petg tubes, I'm glad I ordered 12. The struggle was getting the reservoir mounted so it would be parrallel with the length of the case, since it came with two brackets to mount to 120mm fans, I decided to put it on the back wall but the left and right side of the brackets were not in the same plane. The left side was a little further in so I had to find a way to get them to match, so I had some nylon washers I spray painted black, went to Homedepot and grabbed M4 screws 20mm and 25mm long and some black screw caps. I had M4 nuts and so I bolted it in place rather than using the stand-up mount which would make the whole thing wobbly when tilted. I used one of the cables rubber grommets to put a pass-through fitting in there and thats where the loop enters the basement. The return from the basement is just a female-female adapter into an elbow and then a straight up run which you can see comes through the floor to the front rad. I tried doing a single tube run off the reservoir and into the inline filter but I didn't like the bends since I needed two 90 degree bends right after another, or a 90 and an arc into the res. I realized if I did a 180 it would almost line up with the filter so I used a quad rotary I had laying around with a 30mm spacer and it turned out great. 
I also took the dive at putting liquid metal on my CPU so hopefully nothing bad happens and it keeps the CPU under 56C while gaming.
Here are some pics of a couple of runs I tried prior to going with the 180 bend, as well as the basement runs prior to cable management.































blitzraider said:


> Does it mess with the fans to have a radiator only in front 2 of the 3 in the front?


Not at all, I have the two front fans on the rad daisy chained to one port in the Quadro, the three at the top daisy chained to another port, the two bottom fans on a splitter to another port and the pump. The top front fan and the rear fan are connected to case fans on the motherboard and I haven't even set a profile on those. I'm using Arctic P14 pst fans in the top and front radiators, the fans that came with the case are at the bottom rad and the top front fan you asked about, and the rear fan is an Arctic Bionix F140.


----------



## KShirza1

Finished up wiring and she’s ready to go. I just can’t get enough of bitspower fittings.


----------



## KShirza1

Dash8Q4 said:


> Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL light tempered glass. Just moved my system into this case a couple of days ago and am loving it. Lots of room and temps are much better than in my BeQuiet Dark Base 700.
> 3700X
> 3080 FTW3
> Up top is a Bykski 420mm rad. Front and bottom are 280mm Alphacool rads, one 30mm and one 45mm. Bykski flow meter and CPU block. Barrow GPU block and D5 pump inside an IceManCooler reservoir.
> Enjoy
> View attachment 2515304
> View attachment 2515305
> View attachment 2515306


So good! I love this thread so much.


----------



## D-EJ915

Tested out my 2 Aorus Xtreme 3090 blocks today, the temps are the same between them which is utterly bizarre to me lol. The Phanteks one has the flimsiest backplate in the world and while the EK one's fitment doesn't seem to work 100% right (does not overhang pcb like it seems it should) it is much bigger you'd think it might dissipate better but I guess not lol.

Didn't take any pictures of the EK one yet.



http://imgur.com/Y1WZuFj




http://imgur.com/OUDUBaN




http://imgur.com/dORgzFD


----------



## dwolvin

Overhang doesn't mean heat removal... but we can hope for better!


----------



## Ironsmack

Ive been happy with my STH10 with tons of rad space. But throughout the years, been getting old with lack of filters, front I/O options and well... looking bland.
So decided to move to an Elite 719. And im quite happy with the move. Higher load temp (compared to two 480's, 360 and 240) from the STH10, but it has filters, updated front I/O, still has 2.5/3.5 HDD space for my needs and better looking.

With load, temps are 71C - CPU, 42C - 2080s and 49C - 1080 with fans at 1350 RPMs with an ambient of 23 C.


STH10
















Elite 719


----------



## dwolvin

Really nice! For things that don't need I/O speed, spinning rust will be the best for a long time (imho/ymmv). How are the filters? Like demciflex (really fine), or more open?


----------



## Ironsmack

dwolvin said:


> Really nice! For things that don't need I/O speed, spinning rust will be the best for a long time (imho/ymmv). How are the filters? Like demciflex (really fine), or more open?


Im tired of plugging stuff in the back of the case. So having an updated I/O (especially Type C) is nice.

Filters reminds me of a screen door. It filters the bigger stuff and in my case - cat dander. Having 3 cats, id rather have the filtering capability rather than balls to the walls rad support.

Getting the demciflex set for my STH10 w/ shipping, it cost half than what it cost me to get the Elite 719. So, new case it is.


----------



## dwolvin

nice! I also have the cat / rad issue. So far I'm just keeping air around to blow it down every few days.


----------



## mouacyk

Dash8Q4 said:


> Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL light tempered glass. Just moved my system into this case a couple of days ago and am loving it. Lots of room and temps are much better than in my BeQuiet Dark Base 700.
> 3700X
> 3080 FTW3
> Up top is a Bykski 420mm rad. Front and bottom are 280mm Alphacool rads, one 30mm and one 45mm. Bykski flow meter and CPU block. Barrow GPU block and D5 pump inside an IceManCooler reservoir.
> Enjoy
> View attachment 2515304
> View attachment 2515305
> View attachment 2515306


The ray-traced effects are life-like. Just missing DLSS.


----------



## Questors

Dash8Q4 said:


> Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL light tempered glass. Just moved my system into this case a couple of days ago and am loving it. Lots of room and temps are much better than in my BeQuiet Dark Base 700.
> 3700X
> 3080 FTW3
> Up top is a Bykski 420mm rad. Front and bottom are 280mm Alphacool rads, one 30mm and one 45mm. Bykski flow meter and CPU block. Barrow GPU block and D5 pump inside an IceManCooler reservoir.
> Enjoy
> View attachment 2515304
> View attachment 2515305
> View attachment 2515306


Very nice. 



Ironsmack said:


> Ive been happy with my STH10 with tons of rad space. But throughout the years, been getting old with lack of filters, front I/O options and well... looking bland.
> So decided to move to an Elite 719. And im quite happy with the move. Higher load temp (compared to two 480's, 360 and 240) from the STH10, but it has filters, updated front I/O, still has 2.5/3.5 HDD space for my needs and better looking.
> 
> With load, temps are 71C - CPU, 42C - 2080s and 49C - 1080 with fans at 1350 RPMs with an ambient of 23 C.
> 
> 
> STH10
> 
> View attachment 2515807
> View attachment 2515806
> 
> 
> 
> Elite 719
> 
> View attachment 2515808
> View attachment 2515809
> View attachment 2515810


I really enjoy CaseLabs. My Merlin ST10 with double pedestals (one top and one bottom) is a beast. Huge, but a fun beast. Thoroughly enjoy the radiator space.



dwolvin said:


> nice! I also have the cat / rad issue. So far I'm just keeping air around to blow it down every few days.


The wife and I started rescuing cats some years back after a nearby house renter was evicted and left about 6 to 8 cats running amok. I can relate. It has limited my PC hobby projects in some ways. No external fans, radiators (forget the MORA 😢 ) or tube. Must be careful with power cords and cables. Everything is positive ventilation now to keep fur out. There is no limit to the number of times one can vacuum. I think if the house burned down (God forbid!), the Fire Marshall investigating will still find clumps of untouched cat fur. 

It is very rewarding though. After watching these cats reproduce like, uh well, proverbial rabbits and the subsequent diseases, car splatting and the like, we had to do something. It has been very worth the effort.


----------



## Trestles126

Cleaning out after 1.5 years of very mild use. Picked up a Samsung 870 evo 1tb ssd to throw in and plan to do some cable management in the ssd area 

not quite ready for a full rebuild but it’s on my mind!


----------



## Barefooter

Trestles126 said:


> Cleaning out after 1.5 years of very mild use. Picked up a Samsung 870 evo 1tb ssd to throw in and plan to do some cable management in the ssd area
> 
> not quite ready for a full rebuild but it’s on my mind!
> View attachment 2516127
> View attachment 2516128
> View attachment 2516126


This has always been one of my favorite builds here on OCN.

Still looks awesome


----------



## Trestles126

Barefooter said:


> This has always been one of my favorite builds here on OCN.
> 
> Still looks awesome


thanks loved following yours as well!


----------



## blitzraider

I finally have something nice to share! This build has spent more time off than on due to the amount of mods I have have done to it. Probably 4 years of blood, swear, and sleepless late nights (no tears all good). Building this PC has taught me that I go too deep into the rabbit hole with mods/upgrades, so I need a second build or else I will never actually get to use the PC (sorry wallet )

More mods/photos to come!


----------



## ssgwright

blitzraider said:


> I finally have something nice to share! This build has spent more time off than on due to the amount of mods I have have done to it. Probably 4 years of blood, swear, and sleepless late nights (no tears all good). Building this PC has taught me that I go too deep into the rabbit hole with mods/upgrades, so I need a second build or else I will never actually get to use the PC (sorry wallet )
> 
> More mods/photos to come!
> 
> View attachment 2516259
> View attachment 2516260
> View attachment 2516261


Nice build! very clean!


----------



## dwolvin

Very nice, what's the hose?


----------



## Ironsmack

Questors said:


> Very nice.
> 
> I really enjoy CaseLabs. My Merlin ST10 with double pedestals (one top and one bottom) is a beast. Huge, but a fun beast. Thoroughly enjoy the radiator space.
> 
> The wife and I started rescuing cats some years back after a nearby house renter was evicted and left about 6 to 8 cats running amok. I can relate. It has limited my PC hobby projects in some ways. No external fans, radiators (forget the MORA 😢 ) or tube. Must be careful with power cords and cables. Everything is positive ventilation now to keep fur out. There is no limit to the number of times one can vacuum. I think if the house burned down (God forbid!), the Fire Marshall investigating will still find clumps of untouched cat fur.
> 
> It is very rewarding though. After watching these cats reproduce like, uh well, proverbial rabbits and the subsequent diseases, car splatting and the like, we had to do something. It has been very worth the effort.



I hear yah man. I didnt expect to adopt a kitten. Let alone, adopt 2 other siblings from another litter. So those lil ****s have been a handful and definitely made my open case very dirty. So had to make some changes. Filters are a must now, cables have been to by tidy as best as i can, constant vacuuming, cleaning litter boxes, in the process of replacing my ent unit with a closed cabinet, etc.





blitzraider said:


> I finally have something nice to share! This build has spent more time off than on due to the amount of mods I have have done to it. Probably 4 years of blood, swear, and sleepless late nights (no tears all good). Building this PC has taught me that I go too deep into the rabbit hole with mods/upgrades, so I need a second build or else I will never actually get to use the PC (sorry wallet )
> 
> More mods/photos to come!
> 
> View attachment 2516259
> View attachment 2516260
> View attachment 2516261



Great job on the build man. I would like to do something similar with my AQ6 on my Elite 719. But, im not too keen on making a hole for it - just in case i want to sell it later on.

So, had to resort in repurposing a pump bracket for it.


----------



## blitzraider

Ironsmack said:


> I hear yah man. I didnt expect to adopt a kitten. Let alone, adopt 2 other siblings from another litter. So those lil ****s have been a handful and definitely made my open case very dirty. So had to make some changes. Filters are a must now, cables have been to by tidy as best as i can, constant vacuuming, cleaning litter boxes, in the process of replacing my ent unit with a closed cabinet, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great job on the build man. I would like to do something similar with my AQ6 on my Elite 719. But, im not too keen on making a hole for it - just in case i want to sell it later on.
> 
> So, had to resort in repurposing a pump bracket for it.


My case isn't that expensive, and I like it enough. The case is something I can keep past multiple builds, so the decision was easy for me. The actual cutting though....


----------



## blitzraider

dwolvin said:


> Very nice, what's the hose?


ZMT tube with PET sleeving, sizing the sleeving was the hardest part. It was a fun part of the project and I didn't see many people do it.


----------



## dwolvin

Very true, and it looks great.


----------



## felix121

Trestles126 said:


> Cleaning out after 1.5 years of very mild use. Picked up a Samsung 870 evo 1tb ssd to throw in and plan to do some cable management in the ssd area
> 
> not quite ready for a full rebuild but it’s on my mind!
> View attachment 2516127
> View attachment 2516128
> View attachment 2516126


Looks nice...why would you want to rebuild .....not much to change there...look pretty clean and efficient....might want to upgrade some stuff...but other then that..very nice build....


----------



## Bart

There's too many people posting nice pics in here, someone's gotta post ugly ones. 🙃 

Case Labs life can be messy AF, LOL!









Believe it or not, this is actually cable managed to some degree. 🙃 









Oh well, some mess is worth it. My 6900XT was struggling to breathe in a Lian Li Dynamic O11 XL. It ain't struggling anymore.









Thanks to the Singularity dual D5 distro plate, my rig has a snorkel now, which made filling and bleeding shockingly easy:









Show this pic to anyone who thinks 90 degree fittings slow down flow rate. I think there's 11 in this pic alone, LOL!









New new favorite CPU block for the 5950x:









Flow rate and temps are awesome, as you would expect from 4 360 rads (incl. two Monstas), and a 240 rad to mount the distro plate on, with dual D5 pumps:









A few moments of making things janky in the core optimizer and:


----------



## HITTI

Just need to get the panels on now.


----------



## Fluxmaven

HITTI said:


> Just need to get the panels on now.


Glad to see you got it all up and running. The one thing that sticks out to me is this tube looks like it's under a bit of stress. Just something to keep an eye on.









Are you planning on upgrading the GPU once stock and prices normalize a bit?


----------



## HITTI

Fluxmaven said:


> Glad to see you got it all up and running. The one thing that sticks out to me is this tube looks like it's under a bit of stress. Just something to keep an eye on.
> View attachment 2516767
> 
> 
> Are you planning on upgrading the GPU once stock and prices normalize a bit?


I have the compression fitting torqued all the way, but yea I'll keep eye out on it, i've been working it by draining 3 times after blitz part 2. I wish the pump/res inlet outlet was different somehow the way for 2 rads in a full size case.

The 960 overclocked gives me 333fps in cod1, cod2, codmw1 and codwaw. 125/333/1000fps in the listed cod series lets you advance jump higher etc. Its all the games I play. Nothing worth out that i know that i like that beats the cod series waw and prior.


----------



## HITTI

Playing with Philips Bluetooth hue bulbs with my WC color setup.


----------



## ruffhi

I had to return a 420 Alphacool radiator today (Amazon drop off at kohls). The guy processing the return said 'that is a small radiator'. Took me a few seconds to realize he thought it was a CAR radiator. I said 'it is a computer radiator ... it is actually on the large side'.


----------



## taowulf

ruffhi said:


> I had to return a 420 Alphacool radiator today (Amazon drop off at kohls). The guy processing the return said 'that is a small radiator'. Took me a few seconds to realize he thought it was a CAR radiator. I said 'it is a computer radiator ... it is actually on the large side'.


No need for him to size shame.


----------



## morph.

Guess i'll post something here my v3.0 build has finally been completed over the weekend.

Build v1.0









Build 2.0









Build v3.0


----------



## dwolvin

What are the fans? Really nice BTW!


----------



## morph.

dwolvin said:


> What are the fans? Really nice BTW!


Thanks  the fans are Noise Blocker B12X-P


----------



## satinghostrider

Here is my setup with my brand new 11900K + Z590 Apex.

Pretty darn happy with the setup which I have planned for a few months now.

Intel i9 11900K CPU with EK Quantum Magnitude Block
MSI Gaming X Trio 3090 with EK Quantum Vector Block + EKWB Backplate Nickel + Thermalright 13.8W/mk High Performance Thermal Pads (450W Suprim X Flash)
Asus ROG Apex M13A Z590 M/B 0903 BIOS
Klevv Bolt XR 3600Mhz C18 O/C 5066Mhz C20 + EK Monarch Heatspreaders + Thermal Grizzly Minuspad 8W/mk High Performance Thermal Pads + EK Monarch x4 Nickel Waterblock
Asus Thor 1200W PSU
Western Digital 1TB SN850 Gen4 M.2 NVME
Silver Surfer 18AWG Custom Cables
Link-Up Gen4 PCIE Cable (Vertical)
EKWB Radiators + Vardar X3M 120mm Fans + Fittings + Cryofuel + Red Dye Pack


----------



## morph.

satinghostrider said:


> Here is my setup with my brand new 11900K + Z590 Apex.
> 
> Pretty darn happy with the setup which I have planned for a few months now.
> 
> Intel i9 11900K CPU with EK Quantum Magnitude Block
> MSI Gaming X Trio 3090 with EK Quantum Vector Block + EKWB Backplate Nickel + Thermalright 13.8W/mk High Performance Thermal Pads (450W Suprim X Flash)
> Asus ROG Apex M13A Z590 M/B 0903 BIOS
> Klevv Bolt XR 3600Mhz C18 O/C 5066Mhz C20 + EK Monarch Heatspreaders + Thermal Grizzly Minuspad 8W/mk High Performance Thermal Pads + EK Monarch x4 Nickel Waterblock
> Asus Thor 1200W PSU
> Western Digital 1TB SN850 Gen4 M.2 NVME
> Silver Surfer 18AWG Custom Cables
> Link-Up Gen4 PCIE Cable (Vertical)
> EKWB Radiators + Vardar X3M 120mm Fans + Fittings + Cryofuel + Red Dye Pack
> 
> View attachment 2517359
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517360
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517361
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517362
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517363
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517364
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517365
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517366
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517367


Singularity Spectre case is $$$$$$ nice work.


----------



## satinghostrider

morph. said:


> Spectre case is $$$$$$ nice work.


Yeah great team they have and a pleasure to work with them from down under mate.
Awesome cases they have too.


----------



## Ironsmack

morph. said:


> Guess i'll post something here my v3.0 build has finally been completed over the weekend.
> 
> Build v1.0
> View attachment 2517334
> 
> 
> Build 2.0
> View attachment 2517335
> 
> 
> Build v3.0
> View attachment 2517345
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517336
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517337
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517338
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517339
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517340
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517341
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517342
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517343
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517344
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517346



Where did you get those NB fans??


----------



## morph.

Ironsmack said:


> Where did you get those NB fans??


a local reseller in Australia called PCCG Buy Noiseblocker NB-eLoop X B12-P ARGB PWM 120mm Fan White [ITR-B12X-P] | PC Case Gear Australia

Have you checked amazon or newegg maybe they will have them or micro centre over in canada/us.


----------



## morph.

satinghostrider said:


> Yeah great team they have and a pleasure to work with them from down under mate.
> Awesome cases they have too.


Won't lie I nearly got it but I wanted expandability for a 3rd 360 rad which I just done heh.


----------



## satinghostrider

morph. said:


> Won't lie I nearly got it but I wanted expandability for a 3rd 360 rad which I just done heh.


Yeah these cases are not really for big expansion and I'm happy with the thermals this far. I'm actually going to swap out my RGB Fans for the new Gentle Typhoons to get rid of all the RGB wires. These are also better static pressure fans. 3 radiators is next level mate!!


----------



## morph.

satinghostrider said:


> Yeah these cases are not really for big expansion and I'm happy with the thermals this far. I'm actually going to swap out my RGB Fans for the new Gentle Typhoons to get rid of all the RGB wires. These are also better static pressure fans. 3 radiators is next level mate!!


Yea with the new gen cpus/gpus the amount of TDP/Heat output I had allow for the 3rd rad


----------



## HITTI

Coolant ?


morph. said:


> Guess i'll post something here my v3.0 build has finally been completed over the weekend.
> 
> Build v1.0
> View attachment 2517334
> 
> 
> Build 2.0
> View attachment 2517335
> 
> 
> Build v3.0
> View attachment 2517345
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517336
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517337
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517338
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517339
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517340
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517341
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517342
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517343
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517344
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517346


----------



## morph.

HITTI said:


> Coolant ?


EK Cryofuel Mystic Fog


----------



## loki_reborn

My first go at hard tubing. Not too shabby for a first attempt. Gave the kids rigs an overhaul too.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Unfortunatley
The only type and asthetic style I like for PCs are

Designed and built using medical waste, necular waste,
The entire PC and room infected with pernermantly non curable fast and slow death type virusus

Then the built like trash and got smashed to death non stop every day


----------



## Ironsmack

morph. said:


> a local reseller in Australia called PCCG Buy Noiseblocker NB-eLoop X B12-P ARGB PWM 120mm Fan White [ITR-B12X-P] | PC Case Gear Australia
> 
> Have you checked amazon or newegg maybe they will have them or micro centre over in canada/us.



I usually get my eLoop fans from Aquatuning.de, but so far they dont have it stock. Even PPC and Amazon. Weird that Noiseblocker doesn't even have it on their website.


----------



## cstkl1

@Nizzen


----------



## Nizzen

cstkl1 said:


> @Nizzen
> 
> View attachment 2517964
> 
> 
> View attachment 2517963


Did you buy from Clock em up guys aka supercool computer?


----------



## Henry Owens

gtz said:


> Just finished with my 3 360mm rad loop. All three rads are dedicated to my lovely little heat monster that is my 9980XE. I also ran all tubes on the back of the motherboard tray. Really love this look, at first glance you can't even tell I have a 360mm rad let alone 3.


How is this possible!


----------



## cstkl1

Nizzen said:


> Did you buy from Clock em up guys aka supercool computer?


yeah. real solid. if i throw dis at somebody.. they might die..


----------



## gtz

Henry Owens said:


> How is this possible!


I currently have it disassembled, here is a pic of it. Have the pump res combo behind the motherboard tray.











Going to test drive a 5900X, going to push the snot out of it. If this cooling system can handle a 600-700 watt 9980X it can handle a 5900X.


----------



## dwolvin

How do you like those UpHere fans? My Riings are starting to get noisy...


----------



## Bart

dwolvin said:


> How do you like those UpHere fans? My Riings are starting to get noisy...


Have you considered Fractal Design Primas? If you get the AL120s, PWM variant, they have good static pressure, and good sound characteristics. And the RGB is daisy chain, so you can run the lights off the motherboard without needing extra control boxes and software, outside of mobo RGB software of course. Just don't accidentally get the 3-pin non-PWM version, static pressure drops from 2.7mm/H20 down to 1.3 on those.


----------



## dwolvin

Good to know (those are new to me), but they look like there would be a large amount of leakage around the round frame. It would be going on a pair of 3x 140 rads...

And, OOF that price...


----------



## gtz

dwolvin said:


> How do you like those UpHere fans? My Riings are starting to get noisy...


The first sets I purchased a year (maybe two) are decent. They are not very loud and seem to do a good job. I am by no means a noise expert and my wife calls me deaf all the time.

Now the last set I purchased a few months back (the ones on the vertical rad), and those are extremely loud compared to the original batch.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, that sounds about right. Great cheap fans quality level goes to heck when they get popular.


----------



## LazarusIV

dwolvin said:


> Good to know (those are new to me), but they look like there would be a large amount of leakage around the round frame. It would be going on a pair of 3x 140 rads...
> 
> And, OOF that price...


I got a bunch of Phanteks PH-F140MP v2 fans for use with 2 x 420mm HWLabs radiators... so far I'm very pleased with their sound profile. I have pretty sensitive hearing and I can only start to here them around 800 or 850 RPM. I've been very pleased with them... after I get my case built and all the stuff mounted I'll give an update too.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! Those and the Artic P14's have always been on the list, I think simple and industrial will go with most cases.


----------



## DaLiu

Hardware:
-----------------------------------
Ryzen 9 5950X
ASUS ROG Crosshair Viii Dark Hero
Nvidia RTX 3900 FE
G.Skill 64 GB Trident Z Royal DDR4-3600MHz CL14-15-15-35
Seasonic TX-1000
Western Digital SN850 1TB
Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 2TB
Crucial MX500 SSD 2TB
Western Digital 10TB WD100EMAZ
10 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM fans

Audio:
-----------------------------------
DAC/AMP RME ADI-2 DAC
Beyerdynamic DT-990 Edition 250 Ohm

Watercooling:
-----------------------------------
TechN CPU waterblock
EKWB EK-Quantum Vector FE RTX 3090
1 x Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-S
2 x Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-L
Aquacomputer D5 Next pump
Aquacomputer High Flow Next
Aquacomputer Leakshield
Aquacomputer ULTITUBE D5 150 PRO reservoir
Aquacomputer DP Ultra water
Bykski fittings
Barrow and Bykski copper tubes


----------



## Henry Owens

gtz said:


> I currently have it disassembled, here is a pic of it. Have the pump res combo behind the motherboard tray.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2518022
> 
> 
> Going to test drive a 5900X, going to push the snot out of it. If this cooling system can handle a 600-700 watt 9980X it can handle a 5900X.


Wow, you will have to post your temps. I have 5900x, it takes some definite tuning as it will take all the power you can give it with power limits and all that


----------



## grazz1984

Not a custom loop or half as nice as some of Tue builds here but its mine and I enjoy it [emoji106]
















Sent from my SM-A217F using Tapatalk


----------



## gtz

Henry Owens said:


> Wow, you will have to post your temps. I have 5900x, it takes some definite tuning as it will take all the power you can give it with power limits and all that


Will do, I am just waiting on the damn AM4 brackets so I can use the Heatkiller IV Pro block. I might get impatient and just put in the swiftech block I have in the closet since it has the AM4 brackets. 

That is all I need to get this build going.


----------



## gtz

Henry Owens said:


> Wow, you will have to post your temps. I have 5900x, it takes some definite tuning as it will take all the power you can give it with power limits and all that


I just went ahead and installed the swiftech block and am not happy with the temp. With just XMP enabled (don't have time to tuned the memory at the moment, on X299 I had it at 4000 CL15-15-15) and PBO turned on during CB20 my cores settle at 4.450 all core giving me a 8700 score. CCD 0 is maxes out at 71 and ccd 1 74. Going to tweak further, going to see how far I can push the cores with a manual oc at 1.35 vcore.


----------



## hakka69

Ryzen 5900x
Crosshair VIII hero
Trident Z Neo 32gb 3600 cl16
Strix RTX3080
Soundblaster AE-5
Corsair AX1200i
Samsung 970 evo+ 1tb x2, 870 evo 1tb x2
EK blocks, res/pump
EK PE360 rads
Lian Li O11D XL
Lian Li SL120 fans


----------



## dwolvin

I like having some window to see the coolant / bubble situation, but that's beautiful!


----------



## TeslaHUN

I just finished my Desk PC build . I cut out the front panel to install 8x 120mm fan +added Demciflex filters ( by default it was restrictive mesh panel and only 6x120mm fan)
For now only one 360*30 x-flow rad for CPU ,but water temps are alarming ( Idle 34C in 29C room , and 45C water in game ) . The reason is : VGA(3080) dumping 340W heat and the radiator fans are working with hot air. I ordered now a second rad to the other side , where it can draw fresh air from the front fans . VGA block and 2nd pump is a fortune, so i will water the card in a half year .


----------



## cstkl1

o11xl side & v3000 side dual d5 distro

this awesome quality
























good stuff


----------



## Liquid4rt




----------



## woppy101

cstkl1 said:


> o11xl side & v3000 side dual d5 distro
> 
> this awesome quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good stuff


Do you have the link for that distoplate?


----------



## cstkl1

woppy101 said:


> Do you have the link for that distoplate?











Home • WVMECH


Liquid cooling system manufacturer




wvmech.net





bought it through a online platform here.

his store..
Check out this shop on Shopee! wvmech: Shopee Malaysia | Free Shipping Across Malaysia

pretty reputable

side distroplates can be used in any big size cases .. v3000 is superb but let
@owikh84 post his rig soon.


----------



## Luggage

Step 1. 3800X, X570 GPC, Alphacool.










Step 2. Phobya










Step 3. 5800X, X570 Unify, RTX 2070, TechN AM4










Step 4.

Forgot pictures of new Heatkiller Tube DDC 3.2

Step 5. Current iteration, external Supernova




























Hardware AMD Ryzen 7 5800X @ 4798.88 MHz - CPU-Z VALIDATOR


----------



## cstkl1

its amazing a cheap small case like this can do a proper and very clean dual loop


----------



## Hale59

Luggage said:


> Step 1. 3800X, X570 GPC, Alphacool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 2. Phobya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 3. 5800X, X570 Unify, RTX 2070, TechN AM4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 4.
> 
> Forgot pictures of new Heatkiller Tube DDC 3.2
> 
> Step 5. Current iteration, external Supernova
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware AMD Ryzen 7 5800X @ 4798.88 MHz - CPU-Z VALIDATOR


Step 6:
The fan on the ram does not look appropriate.

Get something like this...same motherboard


----------



## Luggage

Hale59 said:


> Step 6:
> The fan on the ram does not look appropriate.
> 
> Get something like this...same motherboard


Bet that cost more than a zip tie, sounds worse and is marginally better.
But the main reason is the ~5~10mm clearance between ram an radiator.


----------



## Hale59

Luggage said:


> Bet that cost more than a zip tie, sounds worse and is marginally better.
> But the main reason is the ~5~10mm clearance between ram an radiator.


Not really. There is enough clearance between ram and radiator.
Its a corsair dual fan memory cooler.

And secondly, water and zip ties don't mix.

And thirdly, going water is costly.


----------



## Luggage

Hale59 said:


> Not really. There is enough clearance between ram and radiator.
> Its a corsair dual fan memory cooler.
> 
> And secondly, water and zip ties don't mix.
> 
> And thirdly, going water is costly.


You think that I’d put 2 60mm fans on my ram after buying a 1260 rad to hang outside my room?
If the vardar is not enough and a memory cooler fits I’ll buy or fabricate a water block 
It’s a steel panel case anyway ;P


----------



## Hale59

Luggage said:


> You think that I’d put 2 60mm fans on my ram after buying a 1260 rad to hang outside my room?
> If the vardar is not enough and a memory cooler fits I’ll buy or fabricate a water block
> It’s a steel panel case anyway ;P


I am talking about looks, my friend.
That fan with cable ties looks cheap.
But its your choice.
Good luck.


----------



## Luggage

Hale59 said:


> I am talking about looks, my friend.
> That fan with cable ties looks cheap.
> But its your choice.
> Good luck.


Ha, it’s a good thing it’s taking your attention away from all the other janky zip tied solutions =D


----------



## Hale59

Luggage said:


> Ha, it’s a good thing it’s taking your attention away from all the other janky zip tied solutions =D


You made your post looking for some emotional stroke. Some gave it you you.
And I was honest with my thoughts. Honest to you, and honest to me. But seemed like you didn't like it. Sorry to hurt your feelings. But that is the reality. I would never post cheap pictures like yours.
OCN used to be about quality. But now it went mediocre. Just like the rest of the world, it seems.
But keep up with your modifications. Strive to do better.
Out.


----------



## Nizzen

Hale59 said:


> You made your post looking for some emotional stroke. Some gave it you you.
> And I was honest with my thoughts. Honest to you, and honest to me. But seemed like you didn't like it. Sorry to hurt your feelings. But that is the reality. I would never post cheap pictures like yours.
> OCN used to be about quality. But now it went mediocre. Just like the rest of the world, it seems.
> But keep up with your modifications. Strive to do better.
> Out.


OCN is all about PERFORMANCE


----------



## Luggage

Hale59 said:


> You made your post looking for some emotional stroke. Some gave it you you.
> And I was honest with my thoughts. Honest to you, and honest to me. But seemed like you didn't like it. Sorry to hurt your feelings. But that is the reality. I would never post cheap pictures like yours.
> OCN used to be about quality. But now it went mediocre. Just like the rest of the world, it seems.
> But keep up with your modifications. Strive to do better.
> Out.


I should use a better looking fan?
On OCN - home of the bong coolers.

peace


----------



## cstkl1

Luggage said:


> I should use a better looking fan?
> On OCN - home of the bong coolers.
> 
> peace


err no. those corsair fan coolers are junk.

either go proper water or yup just put a fan.
heck i have a 180.. lol

btw edit surprise he talking about ure fan on ram when the pump not even mounted. lol


----------



## Liquid4rt




----------



## woppy101

I decided to switch out my clear tubing to black, just deciding on purple or yellow now


----------



## dwolvin

Like the purple, and where did you get the deskmat? Love it and have one that was a gift, but it's getting old and starting to fall apart.


----------



## woppy101

dwolvin said:


> Like the purple, and where did you get the deskmat? Love it and have one that was a gift, but it's getting old and starting to fall apart.


eBay mate, here is the link 








90x40cm Extra Large XXL Size Anti-Slip Gaming Mouse Pad Mat F/ PC Laptop Macbook | eBay


ARES Extra Large Gaming Mouse Pad Large Size Soft Keyboard Mat w/ Waterproof Surface Size 90 40cm. The world map pattern brings you a unique style. Type: Extra-large gaming mouse pad and keyboard mat, Single-sided or double-sided: Single side.



www.ebay.co.uk


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Preview of my current build, so far unnamed. Thermaltake P5 powder-coated in a color-shift top coat and a lot of chrome

GIF if you want to see the color shift in action: PC case powder-coated - GIFs - Imgur


----------



## dwolvin

Trident Royal is so silly, I love it!


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> Trident Royal is so silly, I love it!


I want a non rgb version.


----------



## dwolvin

So.... Just shiny on the sides? Do you want unlit crystals or a blank top?


----------



## GraphicsWhore

dwolvin said:


> So.... Just shiny on the sides? Do you want unlit crystals or a blank top?


I assume the former because you can obviously just disable the RGB. If they existed I'd probably have chosen them over these too but I love these things, lol. Yesterday I used Goo-Gone to remove the stickers, gave them a clean and wipe-down and then just had to admire them for a minute after reinstalling.


----------



## dwolvin

Actually, I guess they exist with mirror finish on top also- Liquidhaus posted one of their typical amazeballs builds with some on Reddit...


----------



## Fluxmaven

Those are TridentZ Neo with the RGB turned off.... Liquidhaus just takes really nice photos


----------



## Luggage

cstkl1 said:


> err no. those corsair fan coolers are junk.
> 
> either go proper water or yup just put a fan.
> heck i have a 180.. lol
> 
> btw edit surprise he talking about ure fan on ram when the pump not even mounted. lol


Of course it’s mounted - with double sided tape


----------



## Wishmaker

dwolvin said:


> Trident Royal is so silly, I love it!


Our secret .


----------



## dwolvin

I bet it would look amazing with all the lighting in a single color (Obv white, but blue / your fav also)


----------



## BOISHOTYOU

My work in progress...I'm about 1-2 weeks before I'm done so nothing is tight or straight. There's been a lot of work and I'm sorting for useful photos as I wasn't planning to post this..,...


----------



## dwolvin

A MoRa with those fans is silly and very extra. I love the hell out of it!


----------



## Wishmaker

BOISHOTYOU said:


> View attachment 2521084
> 
> 
> View attachment 2521085
> 
> My work in progress...I'm about 1-2 weeks before I'm done so nothing is tight or straight. There's been a lot of work and I'm sorting for useful photos as I wasn't planning to post this..,...



Did you just contribute to a fan shortage??


----------



## Shawnb99

Wishmaker said:


> Did you just contribute to a fan shortage??


lol that’s nothing


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Does anybody know which case this is? This is how I want my quick-disconnects.


----------



## chibi

0451 said:


> Does anybody know which case this is? This is how I want my quick-disconnects.


Looks like a Lian Li PC-011D variant. May be an XL model or the standard, not sure. The QDC's look to be the Koolance QD3 series as well.


----------



## Fluxmaven

It's the XL version of the Lian Li O11D. The standard version only has 2 of the swappable rear sections where they ran those QDC's through.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Thanks! Couple more:


----------



## dwolvin

Where is the motherboard in the last one? Can we get a few more shots?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

dwolvin said:


> Where is the motherboard in the last one? Can we get a few more shots?


They're from the liquid-haus website which is down right now. I just want to know what cases they are.

Edit: Yuel Beast Atlas for pics 1 and 3


----------



## Fluxmaven

0451 said:


> They're from the liquid-haus website which is down right now. I just want to know what cases they are.
> 
> Edit: Yuel Beast Atlas for pics 1 and 3


The middle case is a Sliger SV590v2 SV590 v2 | Sliger
Also, @LiquidHaus is a member here, so you could reach out to them directly if you have questions about any of the builds.


----------



## dwolvin

@0451, Thank you, I always forget about Sliger, that's a nice looking case! 
@Fluxmaven Yeah, I'll do that if they don't answer, but they are around enough I figure they will.


----------



## gtz

Here the latest evolution of my rig. Still need to paint the tops of my GSKILL ram but beyond that I'm happy.


----------



## Lobstar

A different kind of photo for the gallery ...
















I'm about to dig in to cleaning this entire loop. Is that some sort of slime mold? I didn't get this in this loop previously. I switched from Corsair XL5 (Mayhem's) to 10% Nuke XT-1/distilled during my last maintenance rounds. Any advice is appreciated.


----------



## gtz

Lobstar said:


> A different kind of photo for the gallery ...
> View attachment 2521943
> View attachment 2521944
> 
> 
> I'm about to dig in to cleaning this entire loop. Is that some sort of slime mold? I didn't get this in this loop previously. I switched from Corsair XL5 (Mayhem's) to 10% Nuke XT-1/distilled during my last maintenance rounds. Any advice is appreciated.


I have never ran into something like that, new to me.


----------



## cstkl1

Wishmaker said:


> Our secret .
> 
> View attachment 2520687
> View attachment 2520688
> View attachment 2520690


u ghettoed a glacial.. lol


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> They're from the liquid-haus website which is down right now. I just want to know what cases they are.
> 
> Edit: Yuel Beast Atlas for pics 1 and 3


Thanks for posting those! Weird that you said the site was down. I had no idea, but after checking it everything seems good!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> Thanks for posting those! Weird that you said the site was down. I had no idea, but after checking it everything seems good!


It seems to be working now. I just discovered your work and I’m immediately a fan. Do you think a MO-RA3 360 could be mounted to the top and bottom of the new Atlas 2?


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> It seems to be working now. I just discovered your work and I’m immediately a fan. Do you think a MO-RA3 360 could be mounted to the top and bottom of the new Atlas 2?


Thank you! I'm glad you like my work! You might need to fab up a custom mount for a MoRa3 360 to work correctly with the Atlas II. I only have the 140 fan version of the MoRa3, and the feet of it would fit on the top of the Atlas II if you wanted to place it on top, but I have no idea about the 360.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got a question you guys might be able to answer.

So I got myself a Barrow DARIDP-30 240mm rad/pump combo, had a look under the heatsink of the DDC and there's no thermal pad or anything from the board inside to the heatsink so I was wondering if I should go through the hassle of sticking a thermal pad in there? Worked out it'd need to be about 6mm thick and roughly 55x55mm.

I don't plan on running this thing really hard but still it's a DDC and I know those are known to run hot.

For those interested this is what the guts of the pump look like, a lot more in there than I would've thought.


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

Aussiejuggalo said:


> So I got myself a Barrow DARIDP-30 240mm rad/pump combo, had a look under the heatsink of the DDC and there's no thermal pad or anything from the board inside to the heatsink so I was wondering if I should go through the hassle of sticking a thermal pad in there? Worked out it'd need to be about 6mm thick and roughly 55x55mm.


I did put 1mm pads on mine..

I placed Gelid ones..should be good in heat transfer plus dampener for vibrations on full speed..



Aussiejuggalo said:


> I don't plan on running this thing really hard but still it's a DDC and I know those are known to run hot.


I have my pumps in front of the rads where the fans blow air..it isn't hot at all on full speed..not even that noisy..


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

kairi_zeroblade said:


> I did put 1mm pads on mine..
> 
> I placed Gelid ones..should be good in heat transfer plus dampener for vibrations on full speed..


1mm pads actually contact the board and heatsink?

I measured from the board to the top of the connector and that was 3.9mm then top of the heatsink to the edge of the heatsink because it's recessed and that was 1.6mm so figured I'd need 6mm to actually make good contact.



kairi_zeroblade said:


> I have my pumps in front of the rads where the fans blow air..it isn't hot at all on full speed..not even that noisy..


Mine will be on the front of the case sucking hot air out but my case tends to be warm because of my room being 25 - 30c basically year round.


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

Aussiejuggalo said:


> 1mm pads actually contact the board and heatsink?


for me that's enough not to have too much resistance when closing it..mine's a stand alone pump..vertical mounting..might be a different assembly in your case..but for me 1mm pads where already resisting a bit when I was closing up the bottom..but in general a thermal pad will benefit if you put one down there..



Aussiejuggalo said:


> Mine will be on the front of the case sucking hot air out but my case tends to be warm because of my room being 25 - 30c basically year round.


as long as there's air flowing, it should be fine..


----------



## WiLd FyeR




----------



## mouacyk

There's too much sense in using distilled water on OCN.


----------



## Kipsofthemud

It can get pretty warm (at least too warm for my taste) in my office/mancave when I render or game (5900x + 3080), so I decided to put an external radiator rig right next to the only window that opens I have. It's not the prettiest solution but it works like a charm, the fans suck the warm air through the radiators right out the window


----------



## TheOpenfield

Thanks to the amazing support, 10 years old and counting. Still going strong!


----------



## Fluxmaven

I know that struggle... My 5900x + 3090 have been roasting me alive lately. I have an external rad setup but it just dumps the heat back into the room. It's hot and humid outside so running it in the window would be even worse. 

I still have a new in the box Heatkiller 3 that is finally about to get used in a sort of throw back build.


----------



## cstkl1

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Got a question you guys might be able to answer.
> 
> So I got myself a Barrow DARIDP-30 240mm rad/pump combo, had a look under the heatsink of the DDC and there's no thermal pad or anything from the board inside to the heatsink so I was wondering if I should go through the hassle of sticking a thermal pad in there? Worked out it'd need to be about 6mm thick and roughly 55x55mm.
> 
> I don't plan on running this thing really hard but still it's a DDC and I know those are known to run hot.
> 
> For those interested this is what the guts of the pump look like, a lot more in there than I would've thought.
> 
> View attachment 2522228


these are a basket to bleed.


----------



## PCSarge

Current Sig Rig On New Desk since Last update


----------



## TeslaHUN

What do you think about this cheap Barrow 480  rad ? 20-30$ cheaper then other brands . I have experience only with alphacool rads wich has copper fins and copper channels . This barrow has only brass tubing and copper channels.
I can buy 3x barrow 480
or 2x 480 other brand 
or 1x Alphacool 360x45+ Alphacool 1080Nova( together exactly same size as 3x480rad)
for same price. Wich one should i choose ?


----------



## dwolvin

No personal info, but it looks decent and I've had good luck with barrow / Blyski stuff so far.


----------



## cstkl1

TeslaHUN said:


> What do you think about this cheap Barrow 480  rad ? 20-30$ cheaper then other brands . I have experience only with alphacool rads wich has copper fins and copper channels . This barrow has only brass tubing and copper channels.
> I can buy 3x barrow 480
> or 2x 480 other brand
> or 1x Alphacool 360x45+ Alphacool 1080Nova( together exactly same size as 3x480rad)
> for same price. Wich one should i choose ?


ek xe


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Not a full loop yet but leak testing the Barrow DARIDP-30 pump rad combo thing (already did an air pressure test thing at 0.3 bar for 20 mins, it was fine). Gonna leave this till Monday and see how it goes. It's got 3 fill ports, 17w DDC pump (changeable) and brass / copper rad. It's pretty much the EK Predator and MLC.

I'm gonna be using this as a GPU AIO, got an Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Acrylic (wont be using the RBG ), EK ZMT 7/16" tube and 1/2" barbs (got some tube clamps just in case, I trust nothing EK). Yeah yeah I know "_but full loop is bettererrer_", don't want a full loop, been there, done that, those are a massive pain in the ass.










It seems well built, pretty clean when I flushed it and affordable for what it is, got mine from FormulaMod on Aliexpress for $235 AUD. The fans are proprietary 6 pin but easy enough to swap out. The pump heatsink also didn't come with a thermal pad but 1mm seemed enough.

This will be a bit of a ***** to bleed but I'm going to leave some air in there for thermal expansion of the water like they do for normal AIOs, seems like the logical thing to do so it doesn't explode. If this one goes well then I'll buy a 360 for my CPU and run a heatkiller block .


----------



## opt33

Be quiet silent base 802 with front gts 420 rad push/pull, top 280 gts xflow rad with pull....case measurements if anyone ever needs, dont know why some manufactures dont list clearances:
-55 mm clearance from the radiator/fan tray to top edge of motherboard.
-80 mm clearance if remove rad/fan tray, from top of case to mobo. For 280 radiators this space is unusable as not wide enough.
-to install 280 gts in top, had to mod the rad/fan tray to increase top clearance to 59mm, otherwise 140mm fans on radiator banged into cpu connectors because case is thin at top....802 doesnt support 280 rad at top but with modding worked fine.
-For front nemesis 420 gts, the width of open space at bottom is 147mm, fine for some 420 rads, but not the 153mm wide gts, but easy to dremel out that area to 155mm. 

Still need to fix some wires and redo some of the loop, but giving it a rest for now.


----------



## cstkl1




----------



## storm-chaser

Something a little out of the ordinary. Despite the densely packed case, temps are very good. It can easily hold a 5.3GHz all core overclock. The lower 360mm rad pulls air out from the bottom and the mini box shaped 120mm radiator pulls hot air out at mid level, and the PSU pulls air out from the top of the case, so it works out to three different zones and consequently temps have never really been an issue. Although, I suspect if I tried to run a 150W+ GPU in this rig it would need additional cooling measures, but as it stands now it's rock solid. 

Old version, when I had the 5700XT installed with the single alphacool 120mm radiator and heatkiller water block:









Conspiracy theory edition:
Added 360mm radiator + tin foil because the case originally had sound deadening material, and some of it didnt come off very easily, so I smoothed it out and covered with the foil so at least it looks consistent now. sorry about the quality.









Heatkiller IV waterblock, next to it is the alphacool rad and thats a noctua 3000rpm 5W CPU cooler fan.









The yellow lines will virtually disappear once I add the blue coloring....









Very easy to work on, and to drain and fill, both reservoirs pull out with access to the filler neck. The 360mm can easily be pulled out as well for access to the GPU area. 


















As you can see, front reservoir pulls out quite a bit to make re-filling very easy.


----------



## dwolvin

Engineer ugly, but it if works...


----------



## thx1138

Looks like a short just waiting to happen.


----------



## chibi

dwolvin said:


> Engineer ugly, but it if works...


I prefer the term, ghetto-fabulous!


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Engineer ugly, but it if works...



Oh yeah, I'm well aware, in this configuration its not designed to look pretty, but function and act as a sleeper, so there is no RGB or bright lights. But more on that below. I'm just happy it doesn't look like the Vegas strip, those rigs are a dime a dozen, basically clones of each others machines, so I figured I'd deviate from the norm a bit once my hand was forced, but I will admit they look very good compared to this one.. Forgot to include a picture with the 360mm rad installed, looks much better when that is fitted (it mounts inside the case with enough room to close the front cover. also when I add the blue coloring the yellowing of the lines should disappear (see first picture). I personally think the front reservoirs are very distinctive, and add another visual element to the rig.* I think it is the only thing that looks good on the system, other than the z390 ACE and heatkiller copper water block, are the reservoirs 







*























It was originally supposed to go in one of these cases, where it would have looked pretty decent but unfortunately neither have 5.25" drive bays and I didn't want to buy new reservoirs and new pump to make it work, so both of these white cases went to other projects (for the time being) and I was forced to use my old CoolerMaster Sileo 500 case, which has absolutely no provisions for liquid cooling. Which was fine because I like a challenge like this.





































But hey, at least from 10 feet away it doesnt look too bad! lol









Dual reservoirs, I really like them alot. People have been telling me they wont offer any performance advantages, but I still think they add some character to the build. Plus, more volume in your liquid cooling system is a good thing. 

This is how I linked the pump to the rest of the system, and it is also not visible at all until you peak around.


----------



## Luggage

thx1138 said:


> Looks like a short just waiting to happen.


Nah - that’s no ha hard tubing


----------



## storm-chaser

chibi said:


> I prefer the term, ghetto-fabulous!


Yeah, that sums it up pretty well. And besides, I have plenty of other rigs that look Phenomenal. I also sometimes use the term IED in reference to this rig. *Improvised electronic device* ... lol


----------



## storm-chaser

thx1138 said:


> Looks like a short just waiting to happen.


I dont get it what do you mean here? Like a leaky line or something?


----------



## thx1138

Foil conducts electricity. Probably not likely but you could short out a pcb if some loose foil just happened to touch the wrong spot on your electronics. Is it under the mobo too? I wouldn't put any loose metal around my electronics...


----------



## Henry Owens

storm-chaser said:


> Something a little out of the ordinary. Despite the densely packed case, temps are very good. It can easily hold a 5.3GHz all core overclock. The lower 360mm rad pulls air out from the bottom and the mini box shaped 120mm radiator pulls hot air out at mid level, and the PSU pulls air out from the top of the case, so it works out to three different zones and consequently temps have never really been an issue. Although, I suspect if I tried to run a 150W+ GPU in this rig it would need additional cooling measures, but as it stands now it's rock solid.
> 
> Old version, when I had the 5700XT installed with the single alphacool 120mm radiator and heatkiller water block:
> View attachment 2524475
> 
> 
> Conspiracy theory edition:
> Added 360mm radiator + tin foil because the case originally had sound deadening material, and some of it didnt come off very easily, so I smoothed it out and covered with the foil so at least it looks consistent now. sorry about the quality.
> View attachment 2524476
> 
> 
> Heatkiller IV waterblock, next to it is the alphacool rad and thats a noctua 3000rpm 5W CPU cooler fan.
> View attachment 2524477
> 
> 
> The yellow lines will virtually disappear once I add the blue coloring....
> View attachment 2524480
> 
> 
> Very easy to work on, and to drain and fill, both reservoirs pull out with access to the filler neck. The 360mm can easily be pulled out as well for access to the GPU area.
> View attachment 2524478
> 
> 
> View attachment 2524479
> 
> 
> As you can see, front reservoir pulls out quite a bit to make re-filling very easy.
> View attachment 2524481


Why go all out on watercooling when your case can only fit a 120rad?


----------



## storm-chaser

thx1138 said:


> Foil conducts electricity. Probably not likely but you could short out a pcb if some loose foil just happened to touch the wrong spot on your electronics. Is it under the mobo too? I wouldn't put any loose metal around my electronics...


Its very sticky foil tape, so its not going anywhere. Very low risk of short circuit. 



Henry Owens said:


> Why go all out on watercooling when your case can only fit a 120rad?


You must have just looked at the first picture, when I had just the little 120mm installed. Since then I have upgraded to include a 360mm radiator as well. I had to remove the hard drive cage, and that allows it to fit with about 1" to spare on either side. Ill get more pictures for you.


----------



## storm-chaser

here it is with both radiators in place. As you can see, the case was built perfectly for a 360mm radiator once you remove the lower HDD cage.


----------



## dwolvin

Is the radiator mounted, or just sitting on the bottom of the case, and if so how are you decoupling it?


----------



## InfoSeeker

dwolvin said:


> Is the radiator mounted, or just sitting on the bottom of the case, and if so how are you decoupling it?


The decoupling may be between the fans & the radiator.


----------



## quakebo

Here is my first try at hard tube water cooling.


----------



## dwolvin

Full on disco!


----------



## quakebo

dwolvin said:


> Full on disco!


Not yet I think I need to add more rgb.😁


----------



## dwolvin

Ha!


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Is the radiator mounted, or just sitting on the bottom of the case, and if so how are you decoupling it?


The 360mm fits snugly in the bottom of the case. Since I never run it on its side it will always remain upright. Also left uncopuled to all for easy access to the GPU and lower part of the motherboard. The 120mm rad is also tension fit, meaning no tools are required to remove it. You might think this is a hazard waiting to happen but trust me the fit is really good and going nowhere. So a good majority of the waterr cooling system can be removed without tools. Also note, the front reservoirs can be detached as very easily as well. I can basically have the entire system removed in about 10 minutes


----------



## Henry Owens

6900xt, 5900x fully watercooled 😭


----------



## Avacado

dwolvin said:


> @0451, Thank you, I always forget about Sliger, that's a nice looking case!
> @Fluxmaven Yeah, I'll do that if they don't answer, but they are around enough I figure they will.


Haus is around, have known him for quite sometime. He pops in from time to time to show off his eporn. He'll respond if you message him.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Man I love chonky radiators.


----------



## Henry Owens

Fluxmaven said:


> Man I love chonky radiators.


Yes me too worth it over doing a skinny rad and vertical mount GPU. Also finally found one of the best fan configs.


----------



## storm-chaser

Fluxmaven said:


> Man I love chonky radiators.


As far as I can remember, this alphacool (mid level, on the left) is a 120mm rad x 80mm deep. Pretty chunky if you ask me. Although the fin per inch count is pretty low.










Yes, my tape pulled off some of the new paint at the edges. I will have to go back and fix that later.

More pics:




















HeatKiller IV waterblock


----------



## Fluxmaven

storm-chaser said:


> As far as I can remember, this alphacool (mid level, on the left) is a 120mm rad x 80mm deep. Pretty chunky if you ask me. Although the fin per inch count is pretty low.


Yea the Alphacool Monsta series are 80mm thick. I have a Monsta 120 paired with an external MO-RA3 on one of my builds. 









and a Monsta 240 on my ghetto liquid cooled PS4


----------



## geriatricpollywog




----------



## TeslaHUN

I Will add an external Alphacool 1080 rad(on the floor) to my current pc. Inside I have 480rad and a D5pump/res combo. The external rad Will also have a 2nd pump/res . So I can detach the external rad and bring it outside to clean once a year. Since one res is much higher (inside the PC) ,the lower one on the floor will always be full ? Or can I open it to refill ?


----------



## Luggage

TeslaHUN said:


> I Will add an external Alphacool 1080 rad(on the floor) to my current pc. Inside I have 480rad and a D5pump/res combo. The external rad Will also have a 2nd pump/res . So I can detach the external rad and bring it outside to clean once a year. Since one res is much higher (inside the PC) ,the lower one on the floor will always be full ? Or can I open it to refill ?


You want it to be full to benefit from two pumps. With the system off and disconnect the qdc you should be able to open and refill it though.


----------



## Fluxmaven

TeslaHUN said:


> I Will add an external Alphacool 1080 rad(on the floor) to my current pc. Inside I have 480rad and a D5pump/res combo. The external rad Will also have a 2nd pump/res . So I can detach the external rad and bring it outside to clean once a year. Since one res is much higher (inside the PC) ,the lower one on the floor will always be full ? Or can I open it to refill ?


My main setup is very similar to what you're describing, The reservoir on the external pump is always full. I top it off from the internal res.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Fluxmaven said:


> My main setup is very similar to what you're describing, The reservoir on the external pump is always full. I top it off from the internal res.


Thx !
Thats unfortunate


----------



## Luggage

TeslaHUN said:


> Thx !
> Thats unfortunate


Why is it unfortunate? What did you plan to do?


----------



## TeslaHUN

Luggage said:


> What did you plan to do?


Nothing serious ,its just more easy to fill /refill the system from the external res since my PC is inside a desk ( lian Li DK05X) .And i hate to remove the TemperedGlass  Also its really annoying to fill up the horizontal tube reservoir.


----------



## storm-chaser

Stock water cooling... what is it? 
w/ RX 580









rig #2 with 5700XT


----------



## JustinThyme




----------



## JustinThyme

0451 said:


> View attachment 2525165


WUT DA FUT you gonna do with all the QD3s?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

JustinThyme said:


> WUT DA FUT you gonna do with all the QD3s?


You'll see.


----------



## TeslaHUN

JustinThyme said:


> WUT DA FUT you gonna do with all the QD3s?


He tries to reach 0,0001 flow rate


----------



## dwolvin

storm-chaser said:


> Stock water cooling... what is it?


 I'm game, what is it? Interesting looking self contained watercooling at the very least...


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> I'm game, what is it? Interesting looking self contained watercooling at the very least...


HP z820, dual CPU (LGA 2011)


----------



## geriatricpollywog

TeslaHUN said:


> He tries to reach 0,0001 flow rate


Not if my 4 pumps have anything to say about that.


----------



## storm-chaser

The cooling shroud (which is key to this system) sits on top of both radiators (with 80 mm fans above them, directing airflow from the front of the case all the way through the rads and out the back. The CPU sockets are offset to ensure proper CPU cooling on both chips.

This is the shroud, its upside down, but you get the idea. The entire case its tool less as well. Pretty amazing machine.










Pump is built into base of radiator. May look small but they are rated up to 150 TDP. OEM liquid cooling systems are so rare on desktop/workstation computers, I had to spring for it. Well glad I did, as the turbo is much more aggressive with the lower temps.


----------



## thx1138

storm-chaser said:


> The cooling shroud (which is key to this system) sits on top of both radiators (with 80 mm fans above them, directing airflow from the front of the case all the way through the rads and out the back. The CPU sockets are offset to ensure proper CPU cooling on both chips.
> 
> This is the shroud, its upside down, but you get the idea. The entire case its tool less as well. Pretty amazing machine.
> 
> 
> 
> Pump is built into base of radiator. May look small but they are rated up to 150 TDP. OEM liquid cooling systems are so rare on desktop/workstation computers, I had to spring for it. Well glad I did, as the turbo is much more aggressive with the lower temps.



Very cool. No pun intended. Must be pretty loud.


----------



## storm-chaser

thx1138 said:


> Very cool. No pun intended. Must be pretty loud.


Not at all. Because the liquid coolers keep temps so low, the fans rarely spool up above 30%. It's actually one of the more quiet PCs ive ever dealt with.


----------



## mhineareyoubulletproof

0451 said:


> Thanks! Couple more:
> 
> View attachment 2521878
> 
> View attachment 2521879
> 
> View attachment 2521880


Wow definitely...wow


----------



## mhineareyoubulletproof

Liquid4rt said:


> View attachment 2519869
> 
> View attachment 2519870


Sort of tower of doom!!!....nice one


----------



## mhineareyoubulletproof

Henry Owens said:


> 6900xt, 5900x fully watercooled 😭
> 
> View attachment 2524865
> View attachment 2524866
> View attachment 2524867
> View attachment 2524868
> View attachment 2524869


And this is what i call.....big wow!!


----------



## mhineareyoubulletproof

DaLiu said:


> Hardware:
> -----------------------------------
> Ryzen 9 5950X
> ASUS ROG Crosshair Viii Dark Hero
> Nvidia RTX 3900 FE
> G.Skill 64 GB Trident Z Royal DDR4-3600MHz CL14-15-15-35
> Seasonic TX-1000
> Western Digital SN850 1TB
> Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 2TB
> Crucial MX500 SSD 2TB
> Western Digital 10TB WD100EMAZ
> 10 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM fans
> 
> Audio:
> -----------------------------------
> DAC/AMP RME ADI-2 DAC
> Beyerdynamic DT-990 Edition 250 Ohm
> 
> Watercooling:
> -----------------------------------
> TechN CPU waterblock
> EKWB EK-Quantum Vector FE RTX 3090
> 1 x Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-S
> 2 x Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-L
> Aquacomputer D5 Next pump
> Aquacomputer High Flow Next
> Aquacomputer Leakshield
> Aquacomputer ULTITUBE D5 150 PRO reservoir
> Aquacomputer DP Ultra water
> Bykski fittings
> Barrow and Bykski copper tubes
> 
> 
> View attachment 2518106
> View attachment 2518107
> View attachment 2518108
> View attachment 2518110
> View attachment 2518111
> View attachment 2518112
> View attachment 2518113
> View attachment 2518114
> View attachment 2518115
> View attachment 2518116
> View attachment 2518117
> View attachment 2518118
> View attachment 2518119
> View attachment 2518120
> View attachment 2518121
> View attachment 2518122
> View attachment 2518123
> View attachment 2518124
> View attachment 2518125
> View attachment 2518126


Nice build...really nice...the noctua belongs there.


----------



## mhineareyoubulletproof

cstkl1 said:


> o11xl side & v3000 side dual d5 distro
> 
> this awesome quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good stuff


Polishing this is really f****d up but it is very rewarding.


----------



## mhineareyoubulletproof

morph. said:


> Singularity Spectre case is $$$$$$ nice work.


This is pricey and priceless. Nice spectre


----------



## OC-NightHawk

This is two 280mm and a 140mm radiators cooling a Ryzen 5950X and a RX 6900 XT. The motherboard is a MSI X570 Prestige Creation.


----------



## Questors

I wonder if B Negative thought this thread would go this far?

And shameless plug for my newest eternally ongoing water cooled PC project. Getting there


----------



## Henry Owens

0451 said:


> Not if my 4 pumps have anything to say about that.


four pumps?! I have two... but could always get a third


----------



## TeslaHUN

Im planning a semi passive external system .
4 huge radiator (Alphacool 1080 rads )
I want to make a cube with the radiators on each side. Bottom is plywood , top is empty , just fans there to help airflow.

I have 2 scenario .

All negative pressure 







vs 
All positive 








Wich one is better ?

*Cons /Pros*

Negative pressure :
More expensive (have to buy 27x120mm filter )
More airflow restrictive (27 filter vs 9fan )
Easyer to clean / dust (that goes through the filters) will accumulate on the outside of radiators . So i can vacum the rads easy.


Positive pressure :
Cheaper ( 9x 120mm filter )
More airflow /more cooling capacity ( 9x filter vs 9fan )
Harder to clean , dust ( that goes through the filters) will accumulate on the inside of the box .


----------



## storm-chaser

Fluxmaven said:


> Yea the Alphacool Monsta series are 80mm thick. I have a Monsta 120 paired with an external MO-RA3 on one of my builds.


Do you know what the deal is with such a low FPI count on the Monsta line of radiators? My other 120mm rad, different manufacturer, which is mid grade has at least twice that!? What is the method to the madness here?


----------



## storm-chaser

OC-NightHawk said:


> This is two 280mm and a 140mm radiators cooling a Ryzen 5950X and a RX 6900 XT. The motherboard is a MSI X570 Prestige Creation.
> View attachment 2525606
> View attachment 2525607
> View attachment 2525605


Very good looking machine you've assembled, I like it. I myself have been on a white case kick for about the past year or so and really think they pop if done tastefully, like this one. Matter of fact I prefer them over black at the moment. Also like the use of soft tubing here, so many rigs like this default to using hard lines. 

Here are some of the white cases I've been working with (slightly OT):


----------



## Fluxmaven

storm-chaser said:


> Do you know what the deal is with such a low FPI count on the Monsta line of radiators? My other 120mm rad, different manufacturer, which is mid grade has at least twice that!? What is the method to the madness here?


Well since it's so much thicker I assume they lowered the FPI so average fans would still be able to push through them. If they were high FPI you would need some pretty spicy fans.


----------



## Henry Owens

Fluxmaven said:


> Well since it's so much thicker I assume they lowered the FPI so average fans would still be able to push through them. If they were high FPI you would need some pretty spicy fans.


Yes low fpi is much better for these


----------



## OC-NightHawk

storm-chaser said:


> Very good looking machine you've assembled, I like it. I myself have been on a white case kick for about the past year or so and really think they pop if done tastefully, like this one. Matter of fact I prefer them over black at the moment. Also like the use of soft tubing here, so many rigs like this default to using hard lines.
> 
> Here are some of the white cases I've been working with (slightly OT):


Thanks. I have always liked the black and white combination of colors. When I saw the motherboard color scheme I knew I was going to go that direction. The soft tubes turned out nice but honestly they where more because I didn't think I could make so many small tubes in a tight space.


----------



## Vld

My rig 

TT Core P3
Intel 11900K delided
Asus Xiii Apex
64 Gb G.Skill 4600 kit of 2
Asus 3090 Strix OC
Patriot Viper 4300 1 Tb
Adata XPG 8200 Pro 2 Tb
Corsair HX1200
Aquacomputer Aquaero / Octo / Splitty / Hubby / Farbwerk / Farbwerk 360 / D5 Next / High Flow Next / Leakshied / Vision x2
Optimus Foundation CPU block
EK Vector Strix GPU block
EK Vector Strix active backplate
EK RAM block
Corsair Hydro NVME block
EK D5 FLT360 res
EK DDC
MO-RA3 420 Pro rad
EK PE360 rad
Noctua black 200 mm fans x 8
Noctua black 120 mm fans x 5


----------



## JustinThyme

Henry Owens said:


> four pumps?! I have two... but could always get a third


LOL, Im running 3 ATM but have two more mounted to my MORA when ever I get the time to tie it in. Like one afternoon of work to redo some internal plumbing, remove two of 4 internal rads and connect the quick connects and fill it all up. Just been busier than a one armed paper hanger and I took this weekend off and the honey do list got me! She up and decides its time to repaint the 1800 square ft down stairs. Just spent the entire weekend just prepping it then she gets an attitude with me because I yanked all the screws and nails and patched up the holes and left her a dust mess to deal with as I broke out the orbital sander and sanded every surface. ceilings and all!. Just a pet peeve of mine. If I'm going that far then its gonna be like new when I'm done. You will change your mind on what you want hanging where anyway!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got my GPU AIO installed today . It's a Barrow DARIDP-30 240mm rad, pump combo, Alphacool block, Bitspower fittings, EK ZMT tubing, filled with demineralised water and Mayhems Inhibitor and biocide.










Although it's been bleeding over the weekend and in the 3 weeks I've been testing it, it hasn't leaked I haven't tested it under thermal load so I'm being careful. It has got some air still in it for thermal expansion of the water though.

Did 3 runs of RDR2 benchmark, average core temp on air was 74.5c, hotspot 87c water was 51.4c, hotspot 59.6. Think that's a good improvement.










Now I just need a new CPU AIO, probably wont go custom on that yet, wanna see how this rad pans out on the GPU.

Edit, here's the temps of the last run for air and water.


Spoiler: Temps



Air










Water


----------



## Henry Owens

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Got my GPU AIO installed today . It's a Barrow DARIDP-30 240mm rad, pump combo, Alphacool block, Bitspower fittings, EK ZMT tubing, filled with demineralised water and Mayhems Inhibitor and biocide.
> 
> View attachment 2526696
> 
> 
> Although it's been bleeding over the weekend and in the 3 weeks I've been testing it, it hasn't leaked I haven't tested it under thermal load so I'm being careful. It has got some air still in it for thermal expansion of the water though.
> 
> Did 3 runs of RDR2 benchmark, average core temp on air was 74.5c, hotspot 87c water was 51.4c, hotspot 59.6. Think that's a good improvement.
> 
> View attachment 2526697
> 
> 
> Now I just need a new CPU AIO, probably wont go custom on that yet, wanna see how this rad pans out on the GPU.
> 
> Edit, here's the temps of the last run for air and water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Temps
> 
> 
> 
> Air
> 
> View attachment 2526698
> 
> 
> Water
> 
> View attachment 2526699


That water temp is pretty high


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Henry Owens said:


> That water temp is pretty high


For me those temps are pretty decent, my rooms and oven, the PC is under my desk and the this rad is the exhaust for the case (top exhaust blows hot air back into the case because of the desk). That was after 3 runs of RDR2 benchmark, 25c ambient, fans around 1300RPM, pump 50%.

My last full loop (3570K & 290) I was would be getting around 60 - 70c on both GPU and CPU with far more radiator surface.


----------



## ilmazzo

at 60c the pump will stop functioning so yeah you don't have so much hearoom there....crank up both fans and pump


----------



## Shawnb99

Aussiejuggalo said:


> For me those temps are pretty decent, my rooms and oven, the PC is under my desk and the this rad is the exhaust for the case (top exhaust blows hot air back into the case because of the desk). That was after 3 runs of RDR2 benchmark, 25c ambient, fans around 1300RPM, pump 50%.
> 
> My last full loop (3570K & 290) I was would be getting around 60 - 70c on both GPU and CPU with far more radiator surface.


Water temp of 51 and ambient of 25 equals a delta of 26 degrees. That is far from decent


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

ilmazzo said:


> at 60c the pump will stop functioning so yeah you don't have so much hearoom there....crank up both fans and pump


I'll see what I can do.



Shawnb99 said:


> Water temp of 51 and ambient of 25 equals a delta of 26 degrees. That is far from decent


Still better than my last loop lol. Like I said my rooms an oven and the case is in a bad spot but there's nothing I can do about it. Temps are much worse with everything air cooled.


----------



## Shawnb99

Aussiejuggalo said:


> I'll see what I can do.
> 
> 
> 
> Still better than my last loop lol. Like I said my rooms an oven and the case is in a bad spot but there's nothing I can do about it. Temps are much worse with everything air cooled.


You need more radiator space.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Shawnb99 said:


> You need more radiator space.


Like I said in a previous post I had a full loop before, 30mm 240 and 360 rads, D5 pump, gentle typhoon fans running a constant 1500RPM. It ran far hotter (idle 50c, load 60 - 70c both CPU & GPU) than this system and it was on the desk with far better case airflow.

Every system I have always runs hot in this room because like I said, it's an oven. I get direct sunlight from morning till afternoon and the ambient temp is at least 25c in summer it's 28 - 35c.

Compared to air these temps are fantastic, GPU and CPU are idling around 40c and load aren't hitting 90c. The CPU temps are crap because the Corsair AIO I have is old and has way less liquid than it should, I need to replace it.

Edit, when I have time I'll mess with the fan curve. I pushed the pump a little bit more but I'm not going any further with it because the heatsink does get hot when the GPU is under load and I know these DDC pumps like to get stupidly hot.


----------



## Feklar

51.4C water temp? That's 123 degrees Fahrenheit. That's ridiculous. That's like too hot to the touch tap water. Are you sure? I thought you meant 51.4C GPU temp under water cooling vs 74.5C on air cooling.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Feklar said:


> 51.4C water temp? That's 123 degrees Fahrenheit. That's ridiculous. That's like too hot to the touch tap water. Are you sure? I thought you meant 51.4C GPU temp under water cooling vs 74.5C on air cooling.


Everyone else is talking water temps, I'm talking die temps from HWiNFO. I haven't got a thermal probe in the water to test that but the radiator is pretty hot, I can keep my fingers on it without much of an issue but it's not great.

I don't know of anyone Australia (expect maybe in Victoria) that can keep water in a system under 50 - 60c without aircon or or 2000+ RPM fans. Ambient temp, especially this time of year is just to high.

The only thing I can do is put all the fans on intake and either leave the side of the case off or stick a 200mm fan on the side for exhaust.


----------



## Feklar

I read your post right but I think some thought that 51.4 was water instead of under water vs air. That being the case I think it's a good improvement indeed for you compared to air especially in a warm room. That's the thing with water cooling, ambient temps are the key. For comparison I have a 3090 FTW3 on a 500 Watt bios full cover block and active backplate with a 11900k and a Mora 3 radiator. My gpu die temp at idle is 27C and load at 40C, hotspot temp is 55 max under load all this at 23C ambient temp. It just doesn't get cold enough in Aus.


----------



## storm-chaser

Just completed a water cooling upgrade, including adding a second pump and a second 120mm radiator, so I thought I'd post some updated pictures of the rig here. The heatkiller had serious blockage so my flow rate was very low, until I took that apart and cleaned the fins. Very happy so far with the upgraded system, It allows me to now use 5.4GHz for benching and instead of my normal 5.0GHz OC, I'm now going with a 5.2GHz all core overclock, and even then it stays nice and cool. So I'm glad I took the time to do it.

Still a bit of fine tuning to do, but this is more or less what it's going to look like. I replaced about half the loop tubing while I was servicing it, since most of it was yellowed anyway. for actual coolant I used EK CRYOFUEL in Navy Blue, and I really like the contrast in color it's made, between new/old tubing lines. You will also notice the new pump (which is nearly identical to the old one) has a perfect little spot right in the lowest point in the 5.25" drive bays. The reason there is room here is because the lower alphacool reservoir is only 1/2 depth, so I have so space behind it to work with.


Very sorry about picture quality, this tablet I'm using is pretty cheap....

First, I will start with location of new 120mm rad...











I used 3M double sided sticky pads to secure both pumps in place, I really like how the placement of the second pump worked out...













You can just see the new 120mm fan/rad in the background, back there hiding


Both pumps centered perfectly and secured to frame with no vibration.


You might be wondering what the deal is with all the zip ties. Well it's due to the power of both pumps being able to draw a vacuum at full speed and imploding the line, severely limiting flow rate. The zip ties add support to the tubing and prevent implosion and/or kinks from developing....



The zip ties were essential here


Really like the illumination in the top reservoir, I might look into some LEDs for the case itself to emulate this very look... but absolutely no RBG!


Front view, both reservoirs topped off.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Feklar said:


> I read your post right but I think some thought that 51.4 was water instead of under water vs air. That being the case I think it's a good improvement indeed for you compared to air especially in a warm room. That's the thing with water cooling, ambient temps are the key. For comparison I have a 3090 FTW3 on a 500 Watt bios full cover block and active backplate with a 11900k and a Mora 3 radiator. My gpu die temp at idle is 27C and load at 40C, hotspot temp is 55 max under load all this at 23C ambient temp. It just doesn't get cold enough in Aus.


Dunno how someone would've gotten water temp, unless they read it wrong or did some math. Stuck a thermal couple on the top of the rad while it's mining, reading about 42.5c so water temp should be near enough to that seeing it's been mining all day. I'll keep an eye on it later when I play some BFV.

It does get cold here, the issues is this room sucks and while I do have a window aircon I don't run it heaps because it's noisy and bugs the hell out of me lol. I'd have a split system if I could but not allowed (government housing ftw ).

I'll play around with the fan curve again and think about changing the fan set up when I get the P12 fans I've been eyeing, might go Noctua NF-A12x25 but those are damn expensive.


----------



## MoDeNa

morph. said:


> Guess i'll post something here my v3.0 build has finally been completed over the weekend.
> 
> Build v1.0
> ....
> 
> Build 2.0
> ....
> 
> Build v3.0
> ...


Very nice build! Congrats!

What liquid temps do you have at full load? Could you share your fan and pump rpms?

Cheers!


----------



## storm-chaser

In an attempt to make this water cooled rig less ugly I've purchased a blue LED bar and its just mock fit right now but that's about the area it will ultimately be mounted in. I actually really like what it does to illuminate my top reservoir, makes for a pretty distinctive rig.

Again, I apologize for the poor quality resolution here. I did my best to make them come out right, but I'm limited by this cheap camera...





Mock fit of the new 240mm radiator (I will be grafting it into the loop in a couple hours), its literally insane. By chance, every radiator in this rig is tension fit! In other words, it's very easy to work on and put back together and the tension fit is strong enough to hold everything in place through an earthquake, so there is no risk of having one pop out and land on my motherboard.



More pics:












New tubing on top of case. The red box is exactly where the new 240mm radiator will go, its perfect in length from the top of my 360mm rad at the bottom and the case edge at the top





mock fit of the radiator













And what the heck is that thing with the arrow pointing at it???
Hint: It's not a battery 😁


----------



## storm-chaser

Okay this is getting out of hand. I was able to permanently mount the light strip so it slides behind the 240mm rad, at the top. This entire liquid cooling setup is tool less!


----------



## dwolvin

Be careful, once you start making it pretty it's a slippery slope to distro plates and hardline...


----------



## JustinThyme

dwolvin said:


> Be careful, once you start making it pretty it's a slippery slope to distro plates and hardline...


Hard tubing yes but Distro plates suck. Been there and done that and yanked it out faster than it went in!


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Be careful, once you start making it pretty it's a slippery slope to distro plates and hardline...


Ill never go hard line. I will, however, go with braded stainless steel at some point in the future. With the right tools it would be very easy.


----------



## dwolvin

I prefer soft tube also, but the idea of less evaporation might sway me eventually...


----------



## InfoSeeker

I recently started with borosilicate glass tubing. Cutting to length is much easier than I had anticipated, and with the 90° pre-bent sections, loop design is simplified. It still takes more planning than just running a flexible plastic tube from fitting to fitting, but the clarity is excellent, and no yellowing/seepage as on clear plastics.

I did invest in a good glass tube cutter to score the glass straight. Once or twice around, moisten and pull/bend simultaneously, and done.


----------



## dwolvin

do you need to polish / chamfer the ends of the glass?


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> I recently started with borosilicate glass tubing. Cutting to length is much easier than I had anticipated, and with the 90° pre-bent sections, loop design is simplified. It still takes more planning than just running a flexible plastic tube from fitting to fitting, but the clarity is excellent, and no yellowing/seepage as on clear plastics.
> 
> I did invest in a good glass tube cutter to score the glass straight. Once or twice around, moisten and pull/bend simultaneously, and done.



Am interested in how it goes. How did you find deburring and cleanup, was that a pain?


----------



## InfoSeeker

dwolvin said:


> do you need to polish / chamfer the ends of the glass?





Shawnb99 said:


> Am interested in how it goes. How did you find deburring and cleanup, was that a pain?


I scratch the end of the glass tube on some fine grit paper, and roll the outside edge at about 45°, just to reduce change of cutting the o-ring. I have seen some videos of people using an acetylene torch to melt the ends, but I haven't found that necessary.


----------



## KCDC

One of my first builds was using glass tubing with 90 degree bends. The scoring kinda worked, maybe my tool sucked, but I ended up with more bad breaks than good ones. I ended up getting a diamond wheel for my dremel which cut through like butter, and does a great job chamfering the ends. Biggest caveat with that method is the silica dust which you absolutely don't want in your lungs, so I had a squeeze bottle to keep the end wet while cutting and definitely did it outside while wearing proper eye/mouth protection.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Here is a quick VIDEO I just made to show my procedure.
(please forgive the slight case of essential tremors in my hands)

Yes, that glass dust scares me.


----------



## snef

when an idea comes from a 10 years old drawing


----------



## JustinThyme

Hard line isnt that difficult once you get the hang of it. Just order twice as much tubing as you need on the first few as you are going to screw up. After you have done I few you get to a point where you can eyeball it. Im pretty much there now except I always leave a little extra then trim it just before installing it. Not a lot, like an inch on either end. You can always trim but if you make it too short you just wasted a piece of pipe. Well that or heat it up and stretch it out LOL.


----------



## InfoSeeker

JustinThyme said:


> Hard line isnt that difficult once you get the hang of it. Just order twice as much tubing as you need on the first few as you are going to screw up. After you have done I few you get to a point where you can eyeball it. Im pretty much there now except I always leave a little extra then trim it just before installing it. Not a lot, like an inch on either end. You can always trim but if you make it too short you just wasted a piece of pipe. Well that or heat it up and stretch it out LOL.


With glass I suggest you cut accurately, it can be difficult to cut small pieces off the end.


----------



## InfoSeeker

snef said:


> when an idea comes from a 10 years old drawing
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2528778
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2528775
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2528776
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2528777


Beautiful. Long time since I have seen you post in here.


----------



## vf-

First time diving into water cooling with a bit of bling. 


I do love the Aorus Xtreme brand it promotes. "_Dominant in Darkness"_ 
In a way the white/black theme reminds me of the Death Star with the white glowing lights near the reactor/computers.

Now to conjure up a frame extension for the glass panel.


----------



## JustinThyme

O11D build with same distro # 98,869, 452,149. While some have have slight nuances they all look the same to me. Reddit, FB groups etc has one after another. Im actually wishing they would discontinue that case.


----------



## Bart

JustinThyme said:


> O11D build with same distro # 98,869, 452,149. While some have have slight nuances they all look the same to me. Reddit, FB groups etc has one after another. Im actually wishing they would discontinue that case.


I own two of them, totally agree, LOL! It's actually not nearly as good a case as I initially thought. Even if you put triple 360s in it and skip the stupid ugly distro plates, it's a hot box no matter how you orient the fans. When I first bought it, I loved it, since there's no other case that fits triple 360s in a package of that size. But cramming all that crap into _too_ small a package means it retains heat VERY well, unless you have your fans blasting at 100% all the time. You can't get the heat of out that 011 fast enough.


----------



## storm-chaser

snef said:


> when an idea comes from a 10 years old drawing
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2528778
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2528775
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2528776
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2528777


To be honest, I think this probably the best looking rig I've ever seen.


----------



## JustinThyme

Bart said:


> I own two of them, totally agree, LOL! It's actually not nearly as good a case as I initially thought. Even if you put triple 360s in it and skip the stupid ugly distro plates, it's a hot box no matter how you orient the fans. When I first bought it, I loved it, since there's no other case that fits triple 360s in a package of that size. But cramming all that crap into _too_ small a package means it retains heat VERY well, unless you have your fans blasting at 100% all the time. You can't get the heat of out that 011 fast enough.


I prefer large cases. Last one was a Corsair 900D and now a Phanteks Enthoo Elite. When I actually get a day to make the changes it will have a MORA3 420 exterior and lose a couple of the internal rads. Right Now I have a GTR420 up top, 480XE in the bottom, GTS 360 in between the main section and the basement and a 360 SE in the front. I could fit another 360 in it but then Id lose the space where I have 4 2.5 inch 2TB Samsung SSDs mounted. When I put the MORA in the loop the top is all going to be inlet blowing down onto my ram and VRMs, The 420 is moving to the bottom, the GTS360 is moving to the front and the basement plate is going back in with two 140 fans front and rear exhausting what the 420 is pulling in from the bottom and the 360 in the front will be exhausting what the fans up top are pulling in and the MORA already assembled with 8X 200mm fans that will be all external to the case. If that doesnt cool it and keep the fan speeds to a minimum even at full load then its time to pull up another 20 amp circuit and put in a 1600W chiller. Not to run sub ambient, just to keep the loop temp at ambient as Ive already had my turn running sub ambient and its too much of a PITA dealing with Condensation.


----------



## ilmazzo

External radiator is the best option for many reasons imho


----------



## Nizzen

Soon ready with Mo-Ra 420 😅


----------



## storm-chaser

The loop on the 9600K is now complete. Last problem was a 90 degree fitting right out of pump #2, and mounting the new 240mm radiator to the side of the 5.25 drive bays. It's insane. Every single radiator in this rig is tension fit. I still shell shocked about that. This makes it very easy to work on the loop, no tools required. Definitely did not plan for that to happen, but the new 240 also fits perfectly above the 360 mm....

I removed the 90 fitting earlier today and replaced it with longer tubing, assuring the water can now flow through the loop smoothly unimpeded for optimal performance. this machine has been though 4 iterations prior to what you see here. Again, sorry for the low quality. I have a new digital camera on order.

In regards to the 90 elbow delete, I'm definitely noticing a performance improvement and faster flow through the loop. The other silver lining is that my pumps are now much quieter as well. I can run them near 3800 rpm and just start to hear them, but no louder than any of the fans. That was an unexpected surprise.

If you are wondering about the zip ties, they are there to eliminate kinks and help hold the tubing to it's original form. Must have for this build, as I have a 120 on the other side as well as the new 240 (see below)


----------



## loki_reborn

Changed my tubing and air flow order to something a bit better.
I am still playing with the idea of putting two 120mm rads in the top with the ports facing towards the front.
I dont think I can get a 240 in the top without the fittings fouling on something.


















Any thoughts on how you guys would squeeze some radiator space in?


----------



## Avacado

loki_reborn said:


> Changed my tubing and air flow order to something a bit better.
> I am still playing with the idea of putting two 120mm rads in the top with the ports facing towards the front.
> I dont think I can get a 240 in the top without the fittings fouling on something.
> View attachment 2529186
> 
> 
> View attachment 2529187
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on how you guys would squeeze some radiator space in?


240 up top ports facing rear. Flip front 360, ports down. Flip bottom 240, ports to rear. Utilize rear distro to make it happen.


----------



## loki_reborn

Avacado said:


> 240 up top ports facing rear. Flip front 360, ports down. Flip bottom 240, ports to rear. Utilize rear distro to make it happen.


That is not a bad shout at all actually. Just use the distro plate to bridge the rads. Cheers bud!


----------



## aaronstransam

Well......me, my shunt modded 2070s, a heatkiller universal block, a bunch of copper and a crazy idea.......works GREAT


----------



## Avacado

aaronstransam said:


> Well......me, my shunt modded 2070s, a heatkiller universal block, a bunch of copper and a crazy idea.......works GREAT
> View attachment 2529882
> View attachment 2529883


Not everyone is able to come up with an idea and engineer it, so props on that. Those shunts are running coolant right? What is the flow like?


----------



## aaronstransam

Avacado said:


> Not everyone is able to come up with an idea and engineer it, so props on that. Those shunts are running coolant right? What is the flow like?


by shunt mod i mean i soldered 8 milliohm resistors on top of the power monitoring shunt resistors on the 6 and 8 pin to almost completely remove the power limit. no waterblock is made for this card (ventus oc) and doing that kind of mod adds tons of heat to the vrm. originally the heatkiller gpu diy block comes with a small daugher block for the vrms and i had heatsinks on the vram. vrm temp was ok but needed to use a fan for vram. i used a copper plate and cut it to fit around the main block, to cover vram and vrm and then mounted the daughter block to that. temp probes had vram in the 75c range and vrm in the 60c's (daughter block right above vrm on the plate). now with the copper tube soldered to that plate at the vrm and most of the vram chips, vram 2C over water temp and vrm about 3 under load. could not tell you the flow exactly but its MUCH cooler. d5 vario set to 40-45%.


----------



## storm-chaser

Better pics of my cooling setup - with new phone
Heatkiller IV all copper water block
two alphacool bay reservoirs 5.25
two freezemod 800L/H PWM pumps
One 360mm rad
One 240mm rad (passive)
One 120mm rad
One 80mm deep alphacool monsta 120mm rad (essentially two 120mms in one)
Mostly noctua PWM fans running about 1100rpm (set static)
Pumps running about 3000rpm each
*9600KF @ 5.2Ghz @ 1.373 volts*

I get torture test temps of anywhere from 165*F to 170* with this configuration.
There is one problem with the loop and that is the water block is becoming more and more restrictive despite cleaning it about a month ago.

Guess I need to have it pressure washed at the very least to remove crud from the micro channels. Isn't the baby chiller cute?!


----------



## J7SC

...just a quick teaser on a new w-cooled home-office work-play combo build (3950X w/ 6900XT and 5950X w/ Strix 3090) before build-log pics get finalized...case is heavily modded TT Core P8.

first 'final' test mount after testbench for component performance for wiring check:










further down the line (fully functional, other than some visual clean-ups such as tube and cable management )


----------



## jellis142

Guess I've been out of the game forever... Got a Dynamic XL and was SO excited to try hardline. But apparently, it's an overused case and an overused distribution plate. Heck it. Sending it anyways. Besides, it's the first time I'm ever going full top-of-the-line AMD.

Almost 112k posts... Heavens.


----------



## dwolvin

Get a case you like, and do it up how you want. Haters will always hate- ignore them. 

I have had a decent collection of strange cars, always hard to modify them. Always promised myself a Honda I could buy good (easy) mods for. Never happened, but nothing wrong with that path either.


----------



## gtz

Here is my current water-cooled setup. 

A heavily modded Antec P380 with dual 420MM rads.


----------



## J7SC

...some more clean-up w/ only a bit more to go...did stress-test the Strix 3090 (lower right system in the 'Ravens' nest_A' bild). Temps and clocks per insert pic; with ambient at 23 C, I am very happy with the results. 6900XT in upper left system also had very good stress-test results on its w-loop. Both GPUs have 'thermal putty' on the VRAM.


----------



## cflush

New alder lake build, completed.


----------



## Yukss

I have been out of this group for years. lol. here I'm back.
5900x
Asus dark hero wifi
64 gb at 4200 mhz
Evga 3080ti
4tb m2 ssd (2tb each)
custom loop


----------



## Yukss

2nd rig
i9 9900k @5GHZ
Asus rog maximus hero X
32gb ram 3600mhz
Gtx1080ti
2tb m2 ssd(1tb each)
Custom loop


----------



## dwolvin

Not the biggest distro plate fan, but that one looks so clean! Great rigs.


----------



## vf-

I know how everyone hates the Dynamic 011 and Distro plates. I love the square look.

After tearing the system down on Wednesday, putting in cleaner fittings so the tubes are perfectly level and the OLED meter came in from China as well as going with a Tron Legacy colour theme. Still waiting on the Aquacomputer High Flow Next 2 meter for water quality readings.


----------



## dwolvin

I really like the look of the 90 degree fittings and hard tube! Those are EK torque, right?


----------



## vf-

Yeah, HDC Torque. Black and Black Nickel.


----------



## D13mass

After returning from air to water (again) was tried to build something small, than bought awful Lian li Dynamic 011 XL, I have been very happy when sold that and bought Mo-Ra 360 (previously I had 420 version), probably it is the best purchase after Octo and aquaero  
Got used to my Phanteks P500A, want to switch to LIAN LI O11 AIR MINI.

Honestly next photos from March-April, approximately since April (when I bought Mo-Ra360) my build without any change, even do not see any reason to change something, except case, want smaller but ATX format, LIAN LI O11 AIR MINI is ideal candidate, except one nuance - I have RTX3080 from Aorus (xtreme) which 300mm long and Aquacomputer aqualis reservoir (110mm), but case support only 360mm videocard, so I have to install Aquacomputer aqualis horizontally instead of current vertical installation OR buy vertical adapter which cost almost as case 
Not sure how Aquacomputer aqualis will be working when I rotate it for 90 degrees.
*Phanteks P500A (Nemesis GTX 360, Nemesis GTS 280, Alphacool 120)
GPU vertical adapter, Perfect case, but small for quiet system.*








*Lian li Dynamic 011 XL (Nemesis GTX 360, Nemesis GTS 280, EK XE 360)
Bad case, many issues with quality - backlash between panels and glasses, bad temperatures, bad airflow, not easy to build...*
















*Phanteks P500A + Mo-Ra 360 (current)
GPU vertical adapter (need only cable), quiet, my GPU is mining 24/7 + WFH (temps on picture below), a lot of space for any hardware, good quality, good airflow.*


























*Size Comparison*


----------



## morph.

Might take some proper pictures later on...

Updated my build from from a 11900k with a Maximus z490 Formula. Will tidy her up next few days quick snap of how she looks now.

i9 12900k
ROG Maximus Z690 Formula
Strix 3090oc
Temporary Geil 5200 C34 DDR5
Seagate FireCuda 530 2TB
Full EKWB cooling gear


----------



## justplainslow

Two systems in a Phanteks Enthoo 719 case. Top system is a MSI X570 3900 cpu and the bottom is a Asrock ITX with a 3800. Both system have a RTX 2080 cards. I think i might need more fittings and angels. Sorry for the glare.


----------



## MNMadman

D13mass said:


> After returning from air to water (again) was tried to build something small, than bought awful Lian li Dynamic 011 XL, I have been very happy when sold that and bought Mo-Ra 360 (previously I had 420 version), probably it is the best purchase after Octo and aquaero
> Got used to my Phanteks P500A, want to switch to LIAN LI O11 AIR MINI.
> 
> Honestly next photos from March-April, approximately since April (when I bought Mo-Ra360) my build without any change, even do not see any reason to change something, except case, want smaller but ATX format, LIAN LI O11 AIR MINI is ideal candidate, except one nuance - I have RTX3080 from Aorus (xtreme) which 300mm long and Aquacomputer aqualis reservoir (110mm), but case support only 360mm videocard, so I have to install Aquacomputer aqualis horizontally instead of current vertical installation OR buy vertical adapter which cost almost as case
> Not sure how Aquacomputer aqualis will be working when I rotate it for 90 degrees.


Yeah, I really liked the MO-RA3 360 with BeQuiet! Silent Wings 3 fans that I had. I made the radiator the hub for everything that wasn't a block, so the reservoir and pump were attached directly to it. Plus, I had quick-disconnects between the case and the rest of the equipment.

It was overkill cooling, very easy, and looked good doing it. I may just have to do that again...


----------



## ilmazzo

Yuk, liquid cooling is .... ehr.... cool! But a water station is the collest among the cool....ers! (uh!) Quick disconnects are the cherry on top of it! Drained the circuit in 5 minutes to tighten the wb on my vga sometime ago and then filled again the loop with the same liquid! #chef kiss#


----------



## mouacyk




----------



## Avacado




----------



## Lobstar

TeslaHUN said:


> He tries to reach 0,0001 flow rate


I have 5 sets in the same loop and have 6GPM. /shrug.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Lobstar said:


> I have 5 sets in the same loop and have 6GPM. /shrug.


Sorry thats impossible . 6GPM is 1360 L/h . No way. Probably with 10x D5 in series on full speed .


----------



## Lobstar

TeslaHUN said:


> Sorry thats impossible . 6GPM is 1360 L/h . No way. Probably with 10x D5 in series on full speed .


Definitely impossible. Not sure if you would rather see liters per minute so I included that anyway. It's typically at 6.3gpm but the GPU waterblock is full of stuff that I need to clean out again.
















I suppose having this is illegal too. (The Little Giant 581503 is rated for 750 GPH or 12 GPM. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002APPCG/)
*







*
And these have absolutely NEVER been released into the hands of mere humans.
*







*

Sit down kid.


----------



## Avacado

Lobstar said:


> Definitely impossible. Not sure if you would rather see liters per minute so I included that anyway. It's typically at 6.3gpm but the GPU waterblock is full of stuff that I need to clean out again.
> View attachment 2537561
> View attachment 2537562
> 
> 
> I suppose having this is illegal too. (The Little Giant 581503 is rated for 750 GPH or 12 GPM. Amazon.com)
> *
> View attachment 2537563
> *
> And these have absolutely NEVER been released into the hands of mere humans.
> *
> View attachment 2537564
> *
> 
> Sit down kid.


Ambient.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Lobstar said:


> Definitely impossible. Not sure if you would rather see liters per minute so I included that anyway. It's typically at 6.3gpm but the GPU waterblock is full of stuff that I need to clean out again.
> View attachment 2537561
> View attachment 2537562
> 
> 
> I suppose having this is illegal too. (The Little Giant 581503 is rated for 750 GPH or 12 GPM. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002APPCG/)
> *
> View attachment 2537563
> *
> And these have absolutely NEVER been released into the hands of mere humans.
> *
> View attachment 2537564
> *
> 
> Sit down kid.


Just as i thought ; its not possible . 190W loud industrial pump has nothing to do in a PC ,since we are on a cpomputer forum , not on a plumbing / aquarist forum. 
Btw only kids calling others kids


----------



## dwolvin

Gawd... Remember open loop cooling with bong towers before good radiators were around? _Shudder_


----------



## Nizzen

TeslaHUN said:


> Just as i thought ; its not possible . 190W loud industrial pump has nothing to do in a PC ,since we are on a cpomputer forum , not on a plumbing / aquarist forum.
> Btw only kids calling others kids


This is OCN, and EVERYTHING that can be uses in or outside a PC is on topic on this forums  If the performance goes up, it's VERY on topic 🤟


----------



## Avacado

TeslaHUN said:


> Just as i thought ; its not possible . 190W loud industrial pump has nothing to do in a PC ,since we are on a cpomputer forum , not on a plumbing / aquarist forum.
> Btw only kids calling others kids


Do note that early in watercooling, people were making their own CNC'd blocks with aquarium pumps and tubing.

You can read a bit more on that here if you choose.






The Evolution of the PC Cooling Waterblock - Overclockers


History of design - Dave Nelson




www.overclockers.com


----------



## Luggage

TeslaHUN said:


> Just as i thought ; its not possible . 190W loud industrial pump has nothing to do in a PC ,since we are on a cpomputer forum , not on a plumbing / aquarist forum.
> Btw only kids calling others kids


Overclock.net not r/watercooling


----------



## ilmazzo

That is going to put a lot of pressure on connections and wbs...... if something fails will be a big boom since that pressure will splash water all over the room let alone the pc but if it is ok for you it is for me either


----------



## InfoSeeker

ilmazzo said:


> That is going to put a lot of pressure on connections and wbs...... if something fails will be a big boom since that pressure will splash water all over the room let alone the pc but if it is ok for you it is for me either


According to manufacturer SPECS, it puts out max 9.5psi = 0.655 bar, which I believe most fittings/blocks/etc can handle.


----------



## Lobstar

InfoSeeker said:


> According to manufacturer SPECS, it puts out max 9.5psi = 0.655 bar, which I believe most fittings/blocks/etc can handle.


I'm helped by loss of flow from the reduction of the ports from 3/4 outer thread to G1/4 inner threaded and about 3 feet of vertical lift.



ilmazzo said:


> That is going to put a lot of pressure on connections and wbs...... if something fails will be a big boom since that pressure will splash water all over the room let alone the pc but if it is ok for you it is for me either


It will fail spectacularly when it does. If it doesn't take out two rigs (second rig is in the sig drop down) and $1500 worth of network gear sitting under one of the rads then it would really surprise me. My rental insurance guy has me on a similar plan as, ironically, aquarium people with expensive fish and equipment. I pay $120/yr and I don't have to really care as much (replacement cost coverage up to $20k;up to$2500/component).


----------



## ilmazzo

Ah ok


----------



## J7SC

...Further to earlier pics, I finally completed 'Raven_A', a work-play dual mobo project in a TT Core P8 case. It took a long time, but it was a complex build that required a fair amount of custom fabrication. These are 'night pics' so the glass panels are off for better viewing. I will follow up with 'day shots', and also with 'Raven_B', another dual mobo build for work-play.

"Top Left":
Asus CH8 Hero Wifi - 32 GB DDR4 CL14 3800 - Gigabyte 6900XT / 430 W - 1200mm x 63mm rads, 2x D5 pumps, Philips 40 inch VA panel

"Bottom right":
Asus CH8 Dark - 32 GB DDR4 CL14 3800 - Asus RTX 3090 / 520W - 1320 x 63 mm rads, 3x D5 pumps, LG OLED C1 48 panel


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! And please include the other side in the day shots so we can see the tube runs!


----------



## J7SC

dwolvin said:


> Nice! And please include the other side in the day shots so we can see the tube runs!


...Cleverly, I mounted a flat-black back cover that hides everything  ...dual PSUs, dual loops and all that. However, I'll take the back cover off when I move this to its final spot. In the meantime, some pics from this afternoon, glass panels mounted. BTW, new camera, and I'm still learning about its lighting and focus zone...









































































I'm under 'strict orders' to clean that mess up from the desks and floor, what with Christmas coming...


----------



## ilmazzo

Can't see anything so I just put a thumbs up for what should be there but just can't be seen


----------



## storm-chaser

@J7SC definitely like the case and the build and the blue glow/color. 

Loop management for 3 pumps and two reservoirs isn't the easiest, but it's better. I cleaned the water block while I had everything apart. 

Before:










after:









The cooling system is now ready for a 9900K


----------



## ssgwright

storm-chaser said:


> @J7SC definitely like the case and the build and the blue glow/color.
> 
> Loop management for 3 pumps and two reservoirs isn't the easiest, but it's better. I cleaned the water block while I had everything apart.
> 
> Before:
> View attachment 2538696
> 
> 
> wth is that? haha
> 
> 
> after:
> View attachment 2538695
> 
> 
> The cooling system is now ready for a 9900K


really? haha


----------



## storm-chaser

ssgwright said:


> really? haha


What is what?


----------



## caraboose

My question is why do you need that much flow? Surely you won't be saturating the water with even half that flow.


----------



## storm-chaser

caraboose said:


> My question is why do you need that much flow? Surely you won't be saturating the water with even half that flow.


You'd be surprised. It' gets up to 100*F on torture tests. In theory I should be able to one up my 5800MHz score if I use windshield washer fluid in the 5 gallon bucket. 

Because it gives me MHz for days with the custom chiller linked in. It has surface area exponentially higher than my meager total of 1000mm of radiator in this rig. What does this mean? It's far more efficient at chilling the water (better delta T) from inlet to outlet on the liquid to liquid to heat exchanger. 










But also, it's done for the most restrictive part of the loop, the heatkiller IV copper water block. I had two pumps AFTER the block and they were pulling so much the lines imploded. So I cleaned the WB and added a third pump before the loop. That way I am pushing and pulling through the WB.

But yes, also doing it for aesthetic purposes as well. Form and function lol


----------



## Grendel602




----------



## Stephane Kolijn

Custom made mono Waterblock X570S aorus master . Probably the only one in the world. Cools like a charm.

CNC files available on request.


----------



## ilmazzo

ugh! congrats for the balls to use it....... and to design it of course


Anyway i feel the pain of the water passing through the ddr wbs


----------



## Stephane Kolijn

It actually works really well, temps are really low, still trying to tweak a few things though


----------



## Jokesterwild

wow... those are some of the worst bends I have ever seen. props on making a block


----------



## Avacado

Jokesterwild said:


> wow... those are some of the worst bends I have ever seen. props on making a block


By the looks of it, he most likely didn't use a silicon insert while bending. Possibly the wrong sized mandrel.


----------



## storm-chaser

Avacado said:


> By the looks of it, he most likely didn't use a silicon insert while bending. Possibly the wrong sized mandrel.


Do you have to heat up the tube while bending it? Never done hardline before.


----------



## ilmazzo

storm-chaser said:


> Do you have to heat up the tube while bending it? Never done hardline before.


absolutely

hardlines are a pain in the ass for maintenance that's why I'm not going to use them anytime soon, if at all


----------



## storm-chaser

ilmazzo said:


> absolutely
> 
> hardlines are a pain in the ass for maintenance that's why I'm not going to use them anytime soon, if at all


I can see why that would be a major problem. I think in theory they look good but in application, challenging to say the least. 

I don't have any plans to use hardline ever. Except if I ever get the urge to build a computer that resembles the Vegas strip.


----------



## Avacado

storm-chaser said:


> I can see why that would be a major problem. I think in theory they look good but in application, challenging to say the least.
> 
> I don't have any plans to use hardline ever. Except if I ever get the urge to build a computer that resembles the Vegas strip.


Iv'e done quite a few HL builds. They aren't that bad if you configure the drain port well. The PETG holds up better than soft tubing IMO. I have transitioned to using soft with QDC's because I have been doing a lot of benching swapping GPU/CPU's.


----------



## Stephane Kolijn

To be honest, hard tube is awesome to use and really no maintenance.

It is true though I didn't have the right inside silicone size for halve of my pipes. It sucked a little indeed. I will replace them later on but needed the computer up and running , I have some awesome bends and some horrible ones


----------



## storm-chaser

Avacado said:


> v'e done quite a few HL builds. They aren't that bad if you configure the drain port well. The PETG holds up better than soft tubing IMO. I have transitioned to using soft with QDC's because I have been doing a lot of benching swapping GPU/CPU's.












Haha your pretty funny... Murder Panda!? I take it that's a play on Murder Nova?


----------



## dwolvin

Stephane Kolijn said:


> To be honest, hard tube is awesome to use and really no maintenance.
> 
> It is true though I didn't have the right inside silicone size for halve of my pipes. It sucked a little indeed. I will replace them later on but needed the computer up and running , I have some awesome bends and some horrible ones


Fair enough! You took the plunge and went for it. That's the OC way.


----------



## Avacado

storm-chaser said:


> View attachment 2541244
> 
> 
> Haha your pretty funny... Murder Panda!? I take it that's a play on Murder Nova?


TBH, I had no idea what that was until you mentioned it. Was a play on the black and white build. Orca's are called "Murder Panda's"


----------



## J7SC

Avacado said:


> TBH, I had no idea what that was until you mentioned it. Was a play on the black and white build. Orca's are called "Murder Panda's"


...same reason I called this build from late 2018 'Orca' -- black / white and some grey silver. I left out the 'murder part' though  ...Out here on the BC Coast, we get to see Orcas quite regularly, but I will never forget when we saw a 'super-pod' with over 50+ Orcas, including 3 babies, pass by our ferry. 

...fyi, those white tubes (and related home-made 90 degree elbows) are all 1/2 inch copper pipes from the hardware store...









...then came the Porpoise 'retro build' in a similar colour & animal naming scheme 

















...and per recent posts here, the latest build also carry animal names, ie. Ravens


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! Have any of you heard of a case that would be similar to a vertical test bench / motherboard tray with rads top and bottom? I love my P3 in many ways, but am about to start building something a little better for watercooling...


----------



## J7SC

dwolvin said:


> Nice! Have any of you heard of a case that would be similar to a vertical test bench / motherboard tray with rads top and bottom? I love my P3 in many ways, but am about to start building something a little better for watercooling...


...TT Core P5 and Core P8 can easily be modded - the 'Orca' above carries 5x 360/60 rads and 4x D5 'onboard'. Another option would be a simple 'mining' frame (~ $50) which can also be easily modded. Dremel, drill and tap-and-die set is usually one really only needs, plus an assortment of screws, nuts and bolts etc from the hardware store.


----------



## dwolvin

Oh- I'll have to look up a mining frame. I'm on a P3 w/ a pair of 420 rads and a single D5, but I can think of better ways to package it and have a clean loop.


----------



## Luggage

RAM fan out, RAM block in.
replace flowmeter



http://imgur.com/JVdruxU


----------



## dwolvin

Wow, that's densely packed! External rad also?


----------



## Luggage

dwolvin said:


> Wow, that's densely packed! External rad also?


Yea 1260 out on the balcony 








OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery


How do you like those UpHere fans? My Riings are starting to get noisy...




www.overclock.net


----------



## ilmazzo

Balcony
Sweden
Going frost…. Isn’t it?


----------



## Luggage

ilmazzo said:


> Balcony
> Sweden
> Going frost…. Isn’t it?


Glazed balcony in southern Sweden so still hasn’t dropped below 0 even when it was -5 outside.

I even tried opening all the windows >_<


----------



## ilmazzo

I have my pc in a cold garage (in this days cpu in windows is at 17c) but both the 1260 and the rig are at the same temperature (ambient) 

you don’t have any condensation since the pc is in a hotter room then themain radiator? Cheers


----------



## Luggage

ilmazzo said:


> I have my pc in a cold garage (in this days cpu in windows is at 17c) but both the 1260 and the rig are at the same temperature (ambient)
> 
> you don’t have any condensation since the pc is in a hotter room then themain radiator? Cheers


No - because then it’s cold here the air gets very dry. And my internal rads are intake and cool down the case as well.


----------



## Bratislav

No GPU


----------



## mouacyk

Bratislav said:


> No GPU
> View attachment 2542215
> 
> View attachment 2542216


iGPU


----------



## storm-chaser

mouacyk said:


> iGPU


bluetooth GPU


----------



## Avacado

storm-chaser said:


> bluetooth GPU


External GPU


----------



## kaTus

New here, just wanted to share my PC with soft tubbing in O11XL. ;-)


----------



## Avacado

kaTus said:


> New here, just wanted to share my PC with soft tubbing in O11XL. ;-)
> 
> View attachment 2542556
> 
> View attachment 2542557
> 
> View attachment 2542555
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2542559


How are all the exhaust fans working for you in that un-breathable sauna?


----------



## kaTus

Avacado said:


> How are all the exhaust fans working for you in that un-breathable sauna?


good because daily i take off front glass panel. In idle i have liquid temp 24,5*C and at full load 32-33*C.


----------



## dwolvin

Front, as in by the power switch and I/O? I didn't know you could pop that off easily. Nice looking rig at any rate!


----------



## Avacado

dwolvin said:


> Front, as in by the power switch and I/O? I didn't know you could pop that off easily. Nice looking rig at any rate!


Yea, it's a glass panel that slides up and out easily.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Avacado said:


> Yea, it's a glass panel that slides up and out easily.


I would consider buying a custom sized white Demciflex filter for the front to replace the glass . It's almost as seethrough as the TG. True it is expensive.


----------



## smokedawg

Completed this build last year (5950x + 6900xtxh coming from a 2500k + 290x).


----------



## tiggerlator




----------



## Avacado

smokedawg said:


> Completed this build last year (5950x + 6900xtxh coming from a 2500k + 290x).
> 
> View attachment 2542696


Probably one of the freshest O11 XL builds I have seen. Great work man.


----------



## storm-chaser

smokedawg said:


> Completed this build last year (5950x + 6900xtxh coming from a 2500k + 290x).
> 
> View attachment 2542696


Favorite rig so far.

Is that nickle plated hardline?


----------



## tiggerlator

storm-chaser said:


> Favorite rig so far.
> 
> Is that nickle plated hardline?


Could be this
BitsPower Brass hard tube 14mm OD, 220x300mm, 90 degrees - 4-pack, silver [WAZU-939] from WatercoolingUK


----------



## andrew149

Man some of these builds are insane. Waiting on 2 3090s to install and maybe doing 2 water blocks on the 3090s


----------



## smokedawg

Avacado said:


> Probably one of the freshest O11 XL builds I have seen. Great work man.





storm-chaser said:


> Favorite rig so far.
> 
> Is that nickle plated hardline?


Thank you both. Yes, I used the BitsPower tubes linked above by @tiggerlator.


----------



## Sir Beregond

smokedawg said:


> Completed this build last year (5950x + 6900xtxh coming from a 2500k + 290x).
> 
> View attachment 2542696


Is this intaking from the bottom?


----------



## Barefooter

smokedawg said:


> Completed this build last year (5950x + 6900xtxh coming from a 2500k + 290x).
> 
> View attachment 2542696


This looks awesome! Nice work!


----------



## RobertoSampaio

C700M mirrored mounted...


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! Did you find the case easy to use, or was Jayz2Cents on the mark?


----------



## storm-chaser

smokedawg said:


> Completed this build last year (5950x + 6900xtxh coming from a 2500k + 290x).
> 
> View attachment 2542696


If I ever get my liquid metal loop proven viable I would want it to go in to something like this.


----------



## storm-chaser

Some cool pics of my heatkiller IV copper water block...


----------



## dwolvin

Crazy that a block as old as that is still top tier. What's it, 7 years old?


----------



## ghoula

Evolv X with 2x dual 180mm rads, and 4 AP181 on them, all internally?
Yes, it can be done, with surprisingly low amount of dremel abuse.







And it can hold separate loop for gpu, but pump/res for that is hidden. 

The outside look







Hate to take pictures of that glass panel....







Front panel came a bit forward, to let those AP181s breath.








Some photos from the journey can be found in the other topic
[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners | Page 1058 | Overclock.net


----------



## dwolvin

180mm fans on 140 mm rad clearances? Where is the overhang? 

Love the Cp2077 theme, BTW.


----------



## ghoula

dwolvin said:


> 180mm fans on 140 mm rad clearances? Where is the overhang?
> 
> Love the Cp2077 theme, BTW.


Thanks.

Check the "worklog" I linked in.
Front needs some cutting of original 140mm rails, and from looking from front, the left side is covered a bit, around 10mm.
Cutting more is not necessary, since the side panel have those big metal tabs anyway, so the cut is made to be flush with that tabs shape.







On the right it is alligning with fan mount tabs of radiator.


----------



## RobertoSampaio

Cosmos C700M mirrored mounting...











































































And My 10900k with ROG Maximus XII Formula


----------



## jacknhut

Just completed my Intel build with 12900K, 1st time using hard tubing... Took a while to do the measurements/planning but it turns out great. Much better than I expected. Now I got both an Intel and AMD build lol.


----------



## sharyn

Hi boys and girls,
is Black Ice Nemesis GTX 360 enough to cool 5800x and 3080 ?
The case is o11 mini


----------



## dwolvin

A 360 can cool them, but will not be ideal (little bit small). I'd go with the bottom 360(edited 'cause I can't type) also if you can, or at least the 240/280 in the side ahead of the MB.


----------



## sharyn

dwolvin said:


> A 360 can cool them, but will not be ideal (little bit small). I'd go with the bottom 260 also if you can, or at least the 240/280 in the side ahead of the MB.


yeah i just tested temps in battlefied 1 and my CPU is around 75ish C while my GPU is around 50c
will hunt for 240 or 280 rad


----------



## tiggerlator

I'm using a 360PE and 280CE for my 12700k and 980ti(i know) at 1450/2800 and temps are fine, i considered the third rad, but don't think its necessary.








IMG 0200 — Postimages







postimg.cc


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Crazy that a block as old as that is still top tier. What's it, 7 years old?


Yeah, something like that. I'm not sure exactly how long ago this particular generation was updated but it's been quite a while. Only thing I don't like about this waterblock is how restrictive it is.


----------



## dwolvin

Agreed, I gave up and grabbed a corsair since everything that can beat it is super restricted.


----------



## Sir Beregond

dwolvin said:


> Agreed, I gave up and grabbed a corsair since everything that can beat it is super restricted.


What's your setup like? A single block shouldn't be restricting it enough that your pump shouldn't be able to overcome at the correct settings.


----------



## dwolvin

Nothing terrible- EK 1080ti block, 2x 420 Alphacool crossflow 420 Rads, a couple of 90's and a Barrow D5 (plus the CPU). I just don't like high restriction.


----------



## tiggerlator

finally sorted the 24 atx and 8 PCIe cables. looks better.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Do you think vibration on pump/res and tubing can cause problems ? Fittings/tubings become loose over time .
Here you can see the moving tubing : YT (Did not film the res ,my phone cant really show the phenomenon well enough)


----------



## Avacado

TeslaHUN said:


> Do you think vibration on pump/res and tubing can cause problems ? Fittings/tubings become loose over time .
> Here you can see the moving tubing : YT (Did not film the res ,my phone cant really show the phenomenon well enough)


I really hope that is just the flow causing the tubing to move like that. It is not normal for a pump to cause that if it is indeed the source. But no, the fittings should not come undone if secured right in the first place.


----------



## dwolvin

It could loosen something, but if your fittings are not being vibrated much I wouldn't worry about it. But I would track down why it's vibrating.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Well , its an external Radiator setup , placed on a cheap IKEA shelf /rack .Thats the reason why its vibrating. I did not connect it to my PC yet ,just leak testing . 2 pumps (VPP755) on speed 2 / speed 3 . The flow might be still too high for 3radiator . When i connect it to the PC where there is obviously CPU + VGA block it will reduce the flow a bit (but only a bit since there is a 3. pump in the PC )

Spoiler :


----------



## Avacado

TeslaHUN said:


> Well , its an external Radiator setup , placed on a cheap IKEA shelf /rack .Thats the reason why its vibrating. I did not connect it to my PC yet ,just leak testing . 2 pumps (VPP755) on speed 2 / speed 3 . The flow might be still too high for 3radiator . When i connect it to the PC where there is obviously CPU + VGA block it will reduce the flow a bit (but only a bit since there is a 3. pump in the PC )
> 
> Spoiler :
> View attachment 2544722


Yea that's 3240mm of rad space, more than anybody needs. Why would you waste your money on all that? And then buy a POS Ikea shelving unit. I swear people make no sense. Tell me you have all that because you are running quad NVlink 3090's with a 64 Core Threadripper.

On a side note, you might give @J7SC an erection.


----------



## dwolvin

With that much radiator you could probably go fanless...


----------



## TeslaHUN

Avacado said:


> Yea that's 3240mm of rad space, more than anybody needs. Why would you waste your money on all that? And then buy a POS Ikea shelving unit. I swear people make no sense. Tell me you have all that because you are running quad NVlink 3090's with a 64 Core Threadripper.
> 
> On a side note, you might give @J7SC an erection.


To be honest it costed less than a single Mo-Ra3+a feet . I already had the pumps for years . Bought 2 x1080 rad second hand for 100$ and one brand new for 100  But thx for ur honesty .


----------



## J7SC

Avacado said:


> Yea that's 3240mm of rad space, more than anybody needs. Why would you waste your money on all that? And then buy a POS Ikea shelving unit. I swear people make no sense. Tell me you have all that because you are running quad NVlink 3090's with a 64 Core Threadripper.
> 
> On a side note, you might give @J7SC an erection.


Haha, but no, not female-looking enough 

Re. the posted vid, the vibrations of the tubes can happen when there's a lot of restriction in the loop and there's some air in the loop / rads that compresses / expands.

Also, why stop at only quad 3090s and 64 cores ?


----------



## Avacado

TeslaHUN said:


> To be honest it costed less than a single Mo-Ra3+a feet . I already had the pumps for years . Bought 2 x1080 rad second hand for 100$ and one brand new for 100  But thx for ur honesty .


In that scenario it makes sense. Thanks for confirming you aren't completely crazy.


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Agreed, I gave up and grabbed a corsair since everything that can beat it is super restricted.


Toying with the notion of removing the 90* fitting from within the water block itself. Seen here:










I know a majority of the restriction is probably more due to the very fine CNC cut micro channels in the copper itself, but I can experiment with those as well by removing part of the rubber gasket that forces all water through that very small area.










Here is the right angle restriction if looking from the "bottom plate" through the restriction (looking up at the top plate) and said 90* turn, you can see the restriction is very pronounced from this point of view.


----------



## dwolvin

The rubber strips are to keep the water in the microchannels- I wouldn't remove them for sure. Opening up the jet plate area a bit might reduce restriction, but I wonder the effect on cooling...


----------



## Insidious Supra

That slot is necessary for even distribution across those fins. Resctricted or not, I would leave it be as it looks to be clearly optimized for thermal efficiency.

I'll second what dwolvin said as well.

If anything, maybe reduce the depth of the fitting threads if it is seating too deep in there. But I absolutely would not alter the block it's-self


----------



## Sir Beregond

storm-chaser said:


> Toying with the notion of removing the 90* fitting from within the water block itself. Seen here:
> View attachment 2544744
> 
> 
> 
> I know a majority of the restriction is probably more due to the very fine CNC cut micro channels in the copper itself, but I can experiment with those as well by removing part of the rubber gasket that forces all water through that very small area.
> 
> View attachment 2544745
> 
> 
> Here is the right angle restriction if looking from the "bottom plate" through the restriction (looking up at the top plate) and said 90* turn, you can see the restriction is very pronounced from this point of view.
> 
> View attachment 2544746


That's just the jet plate over the microfins isn't it? Not sure why you'd want to remove that.


----------



## Luggage

storm-chaser said:


> Toying with the notion of removing the 90* fitting from within the water block itself. Seen here:
> View attachment 2544744
> 
> 
> 
> I know a majority of the restriction is probably more due to the very fine CNC cut micro channels in the copper itself, but I can experiment with those as well by removing part of the rubber gasket that forces all water through that very small area.
> 
> View attachment 2544745
> 
> 
> Here is the right angle restriction if looking from the "bottom plate" through the restriction (looking up at the top plate) and said 90* turn, you can see the restriction is very pronounced from this point of view.
> 
> View attachment 2544746


To bad it’s not a separate “jet-plate” if you want to experiment. I would be very careful about opening it up too much… but there might be some improvements “porting” (if you know tuned cylinder heads for cars) if there are charp angles in the machining. But there is a reason (and probably lot of product development testing) for the localized velocity boost of the restriction.

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/p3f5nh


----------



## Sir Beregond

Oh man, not that subreddit. 

Well interesting experiment to be sure. My initial thinking would be that cooling performance would become marginally worse, but who knows. If you do end up doing that experiment, would love a controlled before and after.


----------



## storm-chaser

J7SC said:


> Haha, but no, not female-looking enough
> 
> Re. the posted vid, the vibrations of the tubes can happen when there's a lot of restriction in the loop and there's some air in the loop / rads that compresses / expands.
> 
> Also, why stop at only quad 3090s and 64 cores ?
> View attachment 2544728


A slightly less ludicrous approach to deep learning that is somewhat more cost affordable would be something like the Dell C4130 plus 4 Tesla K80 GPUs (which is actually a dual "core" (two cores on same PCB) GPU, so you can double your bang for the buck. Sure it's not super powerful but still a force to be reckoned with and a great way for enthusiasts to start.






















Insidious Supra said:


> That slot is necessary for even distribution across those fins. Resctricted or not, I would leave it be as it looks to be clearly optimized for thermal efficiency.
> 
> I'll second what dwolvin said as well.
> 
> If anything, maybe reduce the depth of the fitting threads if it is seating too deep in there. But I absolutely would not alter the block it's-self


Agreed because I have had it apart as well and have seen the flow patterns first hand. Just don't rly like that 90*turn it makes out of the water block. They probably know best, lol but I will have a look at least the next time I have it apart for cleaning. Also note the block itself doesn't even use
half the surface area it advertises (at least not at optimal levels, put it that way). This can be identified by looking at a bottom part of the block (that needs to be cleaned to see where the coolant is actually "forced" through the fins).

If I do end up porting the block I might remove the 90* bend and shape it into a ramp with JB weld. That way it's not like the coolant will be hitting a brick wall as it tries to exit the block )it's the only remaining 90* turn in my loop). I would take out the material below. Also note modifying this area would not create cavitation or erratic flow patters because I have PWM pumps above and below to control feed and flow.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Well I'll be extremely curious to see what you end up doing with it and what that yields for sure.

I guess in my mind I think you are trying to solve a problem that's not really a problem with a proper loop setup, but it's still an interesting thought if you can improve the restriction without sacrificing performance.


----------



## J7SC

storm-chaser said:


> Toying with the notion of removing the 90* fitting from within the water block itself. Seen here:
> View attachment 2544744
> 
> 
> 
> I know a majority of the restriction is probably more due to the very fine CNC cut micro channels in the copper itself, but I can experiment with those as well by removing part of the rubber gasket that forces all water through that very small area.
> 
> View attachment 2544745
> 
> 
> Here is the right angle restriction if looking from the "bottom plate" through the restriction (looking up at the top plate) and said 90* turn, you can see the restriction is very pronounced from this point of view.
> 
> View attachment 2544746


Back in the day (late 2018) I asked the Heatkiller rep at OCN about that 'flap' and he said to keep that bit in my Heatkiller IV Pro Threadripper block as it was needed for even flow distribution...

...that said, a few months ago I noticed some discoloration of the fluid which was by then scheduled for a flush anyway...to my horror, I noticed that per pic below, some of the nickel coating had come off the Heatkiller's micro-fin plate (pic). I've experienced that before with EKWB, but not Watercool Heatkiller - and their customer service was way below expectations after I sent the initial photos...at least yours is all-copper, so likely to be a non-issue.

I ended up taking the Heatkiller TR block off and bought a Phanteks X399 block (top left, right) and it actually does not seem to have a jet plate at all - yet temps in the same loop with the same equipment are identical  

So far, with a total of three Phanteks CPU block and one GPU block, my experience with their nickel-coated blocks has been beyond excellent, but time will tell...for now, everything looks great as all my Phanteks blocks have clear acrylic tops I can see the micro-fin plates through, unlike that Hetakiller block where I was 'flying blind'... until the cooling liquid tipped me off...lots of nickel debris in the previous loop :-(


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! Any change in temps from HK4 to Phanteks?


----------



## J7SC

dwolvin said:


> Nice! Any change in temps from HK4 to Phanteks?


NONE, weirdly enough though they're on a 3xD5, 1080/60 loop anyhow


----------



## Luggage

storm-chaser said:


> A slightly less ludicrous approach to deep learning that is somewhat more cost affordable would be something like the Dell C4130 plus 4 Tesla K80 GPUs (which is actually a dual "core" (two cores on same PCB) GPU, so you can double your bang for the buck. Sure it's not super powerful but still a force to be reckoned with and a great way for enthusiasts to start.
> 
> View attachment 2544760
> 
> 
> View attachment 2544761
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed because I have had it apart as well and have seen the flow patterns first hand. Just don't rly like that 90*turn it makes out of the water block. They probably know best, lol but I will have a look at least the next time I have it apart for cleaning. Also note the block itself doesn't even use
> half the surface area it advertises (at least not at optimal levels, put it that way). This can be identified by looking at a bottom part of the block (that needs to be cleaned to see where the coolant is actually "forced" through the fins).
> 
> If I do end up porting the block I might remove the 90* bend and shape it into a ramp with JB weld. That way it's not like the coolant will be hitting a brick wall as it tries to exit the block )it's the only remaining 90* turn in my loop). I would take out the material below. Also note modifying this area would not create cavitation or erratic flow patters because I have PWM pumps above and below to control feed and flow.
> 
> View attachment 2544762


You can compare the jet function with another highly restrictive top performer.









CPU Waterblock AMD AM4 - Techn GmbH


The Waterblock TechN for CPU AM4 is a watercooling system for CPU AM4. As a result it enhance performance of your PC while decreasing noise perturbation.




techn.de





(Though looking at these photos makes me want to take a file to mine and shape it more like a funnel as well)


----------



## storm-chaser

I have the water block apart, this is where the gunk always builds up so you can see the efficiency of this block is in question, regarding the flow limitation it naturally creates by design.


Sir Beregond said:


> Well I'll be extremely curious to see what you end up doing with it and what that yields for sure.
> 
> I guess in my mind I think you are trying to solve a problem that's not really a problem with a proper loop setup, but it's still an interesting thought if you can improve the restriction without sacrificing performance.


I currently have the water block apart. I used my vice to hold the top plate security and then drilled away the 90* restriction from the outbound channel. Only reason I don't have it together right now is because I'm still searching for a screw I dropped, but Ill find it shortly, I'm sure I know exactly where it is, just cant get to it right now.

Remember what this used to look like? lol yesterday seems so far away....

I feel better already. Plus I didn't gack up the threads too badly with the drilling. I did some finish work with a 5/32" "chainsaw" file to assure smooth transition from block to outbound loop. 










Didn't butcher it too bad. Per comment from @Luggage I've shaped it (more or less) into a funnel that extends way past the original "channel" so it should definitely flow much better. The question will be how will it respond in terms of temps. I bet at the very least spike temps will be helped. 










bottom plate cleaned with gasoline and toothbrush











Shocking to me to see that the design of this block only utilizes a small amount of the actual surface area within the jet channels (at least that's how it appears at first blush). Sure, it goes across the entire horizontal distance of the fins, but as you can see from where the gunk ends up, it's using a very small amount of surface area to actually flow water through (that slit I posted yesterday can be seen below, this is build up after two months of use) - so annoying I have to clean it like this all the time. IMO it's not about velocity here it's about volume. This is just a hunch has not be proven yet. But I should have a good setup to test how this shakes out. I have two freezmod pumps above the water block, each 800LPH and one barrow D5 @ 500LHP below the water block. All PWM control. So I should be able to precisely control feed and flow through the block. 


To further evidence this supposition, you should look at heat spikes. Even visable at just 5.0GHz daily driver mode. In which the CPU 

Build up on jet plate after 1-2 months of not cleaning. Good news, this water block doubles as an ultra fine filter lol.


----------



## dwolvin

Flow enters the fin area where the gunk builds up, but travels down the length of the channels held in by the flat side of the top. so now you should have lower resistance (shorter channels), but possibly less cooling (but we'll see soon!).


----------



## storm-chaser

I see no notable difference in temps yet. The system has been online for about 15 minutes and I'm currently running a baseline torture test at 5.2GHz.... I included a snip of my task bar below - with CPUz running the benchmark at the same time. Green is highest CPU temp, orange is wattage, grey is percent load and red is obviously clock speed. So nothing appears to have dramatically changed with this modification right now, but as I get more data I will make it available to you guys. One obvious change to note, however, is coolant velocity through my loop - it's much faster than before. I don't have a flow meter but I watched closely as it bled out and air bubbles were moving at a very rapid pace through the loop. It's also hitting the front face of my reservoir harder so I know actual loop velocity was affected by this modification. But I am not going to recommend it until I see meaningful results. In other words, if it's a bad idea I will call it that. I am also curious to hook the chiller back up to see if I can get to 5.8Ghz with it like this. We have some cold weather coming later in the week so I might have to do that... 










Edit: Test has been running about 30 minutes now and it's right at 155*F (68*C)... which is exactly where it was before the modification (measured right after a previous cleaning as well)


----------



## Avacado

storm-chaser said:


> I have the water block apart, this is where the gunk always builds up so you can see the efficiency of this block is in question, regarding the flow limitation it naturally creates by design.
> 
> I currently have the water block apart. I used my vice to hold the top plate security and then drilled away the 90* restriction from the outbound channel. Only reason I don't have it together right now is because I'm still searching for a screw I dropped, but Ill find it shortly, I'm sure I know exactly where it is, just cant get to it right now.
> 
> Remember what this used to look like? lol yesterday seems so far away....
> 
> I feel better already. Plus I didn't gack up the threads too badly with the drilling. I did some finish work with a 5/32" "chainsaw" file to assure smooth transition from block to outbound loop.
> 
> View attachment 2544946
> 
> 
> Didn't butcher it too bad. Per comment from @Luggage I've shaped it (more or less) into a funnel that extends way past the original "channel" so it should definitely flow much better. The question will be how will it respond in terms of temps. I bet at the very least spike temps will be helped.
> 
> View attachment 2544947
> 
> 
> bottom plate cleaned with gasoline and toothbrush
> View attachment 2544948
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shocking to me to see that the design of this block only utilizes a small amount of the actual surface area within the jet channels (at least that's how it appears at first blush). Sure, it goes across the entire horizontal distance of the fins, but as you can see from where the gunk ends up, it's using a very small amount of surface area to actually flow water through (that slit I posted yesterday can be seen below, this is build up after two months of use) - so annoying I have to clean it like this all the time. IMO it's not about velocity here it's about volume. This is just a hunch has not be proven yet. But I should have a good setup to test how this shakes out. I have two freezmod pumps above the water block, each 800LPH and one barrow D5 @ 500LHP below the water block. All PWM control. So I should be able to precisely control feed and flow through the block.
> 
> 
> To further evidence this supposition, you should look at heat spikes. Even visable at just 5.0GHz daily driver mode. In which the CPU
> 
> Build up on jet plate after 1-2 months of not cleaning. Good news, this water block doubles as an ultra fine filter lol.
> View attachment 2544949


Get yourself a can of This and watch that block come back to life. I promise you won't regret it. You will also want disposable gloves.


----------



## Sir Beregond

storm-chaser said:


> Shocking to me to see that the design of this block only utilizes a small amount of the actual surface area within the jet channels (at least that's how it appears at first blush). Sure, it goes across the entire horizontal distance of the fins, but as you can see from where the gunk ends up, it's using a very small amount of surface area to actually flow water through (that slit I posted yesterday can be seen below, this is build up after two months of use) - so annoying I have to clean it like this all the time. IMO it's not about velocity here it's about volume.


Well this is the concept of a jet plate. Not sure what you are expecting there, pretty much every CPU block I can think of has some form of jet plate that directs the flow of the water over the center part of the microfins from which it flows both ways from that center part you see. That's just how jet plates work lol.


----------



## dwolvin

Avacado said:


> Get yourself a can of This and watch that block come back to life. I promise you won't regret it. You will also want disposable gloves.


NevrDull is both amazing and annoying.


----------



## storm-chaser

Sir Beregond said:


> Well this is the concept of a jet plate. Not sure what you are expecting there, pretty much every CPU block I can think of has some form of jet plate that directs the flow of the water over the center part of the microfins from which it flows both ways from that center part you see. That's just how jet plates work lol.


I know but it seems to me there must be a better way. After this test, guess not though, lol. In this case I have not lost any cooling performance as I can see, so at least I have that going for me.

In any event, I don't see this making significant changes other than perhaps extending the timeline between block cleanings. I will remove it in two months and see.

This heatkiller jet plate could definitely not work with liquid metal.

You need something more like this barrow
*LTPRK-04*











If block performance is not compromised, and flow is increased substantially like this, this mod will be a win. Only time will tell.

EDIT: The torture test ran all night and it's exactly the same temp as when in started, right around 67-68*C.


----------



## Sir Beregond

storm-chaser said:


> I know but it seems to me there must be a better way. After this test, guess not though, lol. In this case I have not lost any cooling performance as I can see, so at least I have that going for me.
> 
> In any event, I don't see this making significant changes other than perhaps extending the timeline between block cleanings. I will remove it in two months and see.
> 
> This heatkiller jet plate could definitely not work with liquid metal.
> 
> You need something more like this barrow
> *LTPRK-04*
> 
> View attachment 2545093
> 
> 
> 
> If block performance is not compromised, and flow is increased substantially like this, this mod will be a win. Only time will tell.
> 
> EDIT: The torture test ran all night and it's exactly the same temp as when in started, right around 67-68*C.


Well glad it didn't degrade performance at all. I was thinking maybe a degree or two, but happy to see its not.

Yeah you have to use nickel plated if you are planning liquid metal use. It'll eat up the copper.


----------



## Luggage

storm-chaser said:


> I know but it seems to me there must be a better way. After this test, guess not though, lol. In this case I have not lost any cooling performance as I can see, so at least I have that going for me.
> 
> In any event, I don't see this making significant changes other than perhaps extending the timeline between block cleanings. I will remove it in two months and see.
> 
> This heatkiller jet plate could definitely not work with liquid metal.
> 
> You need something more like this barrow
> *LTPRK-04*
> 
> View attachment 2545093
> 
> 
> 
> If block performance is not compromised, and flow is increased substantially like this, this mod will be a win. Only time will tell.
> 
> EDIT: The torture test ran all night and it's exactly the same temp as when in started, right around 67-68*C.


_Long_ torture test basically only shows saturation, how good the rads are at getting rid of the heat.
To see block performance you want water/cpu delta


----------



## storm-chaser

Luggage said:


> _Long_ torture test basically only shows saturation, how good the rads are at getting rid of the heat.
> To see block performance you want water/cpu delta


Okay good point. 

No data to measure that ATM I will pick up a flow meter and some temp sensors next month to see where we are at. Also running benchmark with known peak temps for this processor should help see if I've lost / gained any cooling performance. 

Perhaps I next month I can double my bang for my buck by stacking two heatkillers on top of each other. (jk)


----------



## J7SC

storm-chaser said:


> Okay good point.
> 
> No data to measure that ATM I will pick up a flow meter and some temp sensors next month to see where we are at. Also running benchmark with known peak temps for this processor should help see if I've lost / gained any cooling performance.
> 
> Perhaps I next month I can double my bang for my buck by stacking two heatkillers on top of each other. (jk)


...or you could just buy a single-phase cooler and enjoy - 50 C...works to about 180W (higher if CPU is pre-loaded).


----------



## storm-chaser

Sir Beregond said:


> Yeah you have to use nickel plated if you are planning liquid metal use. It'll eat up the copper.





J7SC said:


> ...or you could just buy a single-phase cooler and enjoy - 50 C...works to about 180W (higher if CPU is pre-loaded).


Since we are on that performance path here I must one up your phase change cooler. How about a 24/7 LN2 setup? But it's a bit out of my price bracket for the time being. lol but seriously phase change would be nice, this is a good CPU for it.


----------



## storm-chaser

Sir Beregond said:


> Yeah you have to use nickel plated if you are planning liquid metal use. It'll eat up the copper.


Gamers nexus did some extensive testing on the reactions between liquid metal and other solid metals nearby. Good read if nothing more.

How Liquid Metal Affects Copper, Nickel, and Aluminum (Corrosion Test) | GamersNexus - Gaming PC Builds & Hardware Benchmarks


----------



## Fluxmaven

Ended up getting a crazy deal on my 10850k because it had been delidded with a copper Rockit Cool IHS and nobody on Reddit wanted it. I actually stumbled upon that GN article before pulling the trigger on it.

I did have to reapply the conductonaut after a few months because I developed some wild deltas between core temps due to the plating process. After reapplying it the temps have been great for about a year now.


----------



## storm-chaser

Fluxmaven said:


> and nobody on Reddit wanted it.


Seriously how can you sort through the reddit "weeds" ? 

Drives me nuts trying to follow any threads because I have to scroll like two miles between posts.


----------



## Fluxmaven

storm-chaser said:


> Seriously how can you sort through the reddit "weeds" ?
> 
> Drives me nuts trying to follow any threads because I have to scroll like two miles between posts.


I mostly just browse r/hardwareswap and sort by new since our marketplace section isn't very active. I used to try and be helpful on their watercooling subreddit, but it's complete cancer most of the time so I don't bother anymore.


----------



## tiggerlator

With EK 360 XE and flow/temp meter. Now have a temp sensor on in/out on the big rad.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Yo!!! I would figure the ekwb xc3 3080 blocks will fit on the 12gb version too, anyone done this yet???


----------



## Sir Beregond

Fluxmaven said:


> I mostly just browse r/hardwareswap and sort by new since our marketplace section isn't very active. I used to try and be helpful on their watercooling subreddit, but it's complete cancer most of the time so I don't bother anymore.


Every now and then I'll post there, but expect to be downvoted by the fanboys for giving legitimately good info vs. brand shilling.



Apocalypse Maow said:


> Yo!!! I would figure the ekwb xc3 3080 blocks will fit on the 12gb version too, anyone done this yet???


Having a hard time finding XC3 PCB shots. Plenty of FTW3 shots. While I assume the memory and everything should be fine as its just the addition of 2 more chips vs the 3080, not sure if any of the other components on the board changed that might make the fit not work.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Sir Beregond said:


> Having a hard time finding XC3 PCB shots. Plenty of FTW3 shots. While I assume the memory and everything should be fine as its just the addition of 2 more chips vs the 3080, not sure if any of the other components on the board changed that might make the fit not work.


Yeah, I ordered them anyway cause surely ek would have put out something about them not working together... fingers crossed xD


----------



## Sir Beregond

Apocalypse Maow said:


> Yeah, I ordered them anyway cause surely ek would have put out something about them not working together... fingers crossed xD


Worst case, return it if it doesn't fit I guess.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Been a long time since I posted my complete setup.
Only thing you cant really see is the dualbay res from Alphacool and the 3x180mm radiator under the fans at the bottom.

And yes, my RAM is not lit... because Aura/Armory Crate sucks.


----------



## HITTI

Haven't posted photos of the PC in a while.
I am still in love with the Matte black.


----------



## Sir Beregond

PandaSPUR said:


> Been a long time since I posted my complete setup.
> Only thing you cant really see is the dualbay res from Alphacool and the 3x180mm radiator under the fans at the bottom.
> 
> And yes, my RAM is not lit... because Aura/Armory Crate sucks.
> 
> View attachment 2546702


Love those Monsoon fittings. I am using them in gold color right now in my current soft tubing build.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Sir Beregond said:


> Love those Monsoon fittings. I am using them in gold color right now in my current soft tubing build.


+1 for the Monsoon love. I have a couple dozen of these in different sizes. Started buying them for secondary builds where I didn't want to shell out for Bitspower fittings. Now I probably use them more than Bitspower lol


----------



## TeslaHUN

Any experience with this new Alphacool filter ? I imagine this huge surface area basicly won't add restriction to the loop. Probably I would lose max 10-20 L/h .
Alphacool ES Big Inline Partikelfilter 2x G1/4" IG

Also what if i add the filter between 2x Y connector ? One branch no restirction / the other paralell branch with the filter in middle . So 50% of the waterline would be filtered , but the flow should be the same as one line without filter. Even adding 2 ball valve for the filter , so i could remove it and clean . Something like this


----------



## PandaSPUR

Sir Beregond said:


> Love those Monsoon fittings. I am using them in gold color right now in my current soft tubing build.





Fluxmaven said:


> +1 for the Monsoon love. I have a couple dozen of these in different sizes. Started buying them for secondary builds where I didn't want to shell out for Bitspower fittings. Now I probably use them more than Bitspower lol


I've been using the same ones since 2013, except for the two on my GPU that were added later since i originally didnt have a GPU in my loop.
Zero issues with them. Love the wrench that it comes with and how the fittings are made to be used with them too. Not sure if more fittings have that now, but back then that was the feature that drew me to them. I just replace the o-ring on them whenever I move the fittings to a new block out of caution.

Although one interesting thing to note, they are a bit too wide for the 3080 Ti Hydro Copper. The fitting I have on the back of the card scratches against the edge of the backplate. Everything still fits fine without the use of force, but when I tighten down the compression portion (the outer most piece that goes around the tubing, whatever its called), that gets scratched


----------



## dwolvin

Oh, that's pretty cool! but in your diagram most of the water will bypass the filter (zero restriction on one lag vs some restriction on the other). but you could run selective valves at the 'y's and put everything through the filter normally, and bypass for high temp operation or cleaning...


----------



## Luggage

TeslaHUN said:


> Any experience with this new Alphacool filter ? I imagine this huge surface area basicly won't add restriction to the loop. Probably I would lose max 10-20 L/h .
> Alphacool ES Big Inline Partikelfilter 2x G1/4" IG
> 
> Also what if i add the filter between 2x Y connector ? One branch no restirction / the other paralell branch with the filter in middle . So 50% of the waterline would be filtered , but the flow should be the same as one line without filter. Even adding 2 ball valve for the filter , so i could remove it and clean . Something like this
> View attachment 2546780


Put a valve in the bypass, that way you can force everything through the filter at first.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Luggage said:


> Put a valve in the bypass, that way you can force everything through the filter at first.


The point is to keep the Best flowrate ,so both lines are opened and working together in parallel .Some water will be filtered ,some wont, but eventually all the 2L water will travel through the filter sooner or later. Probably bad idea ,im just bored xd.


----------



## mouacyk

TeslaHUN said:


> The point is to keep the Best flowrate ,so both lines are opened and working together in parallel .Some water will be filtered ,some wont, but eventually all the 2L water will travel through the filter sooner or later. Probably bad idea ,im just bored xd.


If they get caught in fins, they ain't getting to the filters. In my next loop clean up, I'm going to put a high-surface-area filter in my res.


----------



## Luggage

TeslaHUN said:


> The point is to keep the Best flowrate ,so both lines are opened and working together in parallel .Some water will be filtered ,some wont, but eventually all the 2L water will travel through the filter sooner or later. Probably bad idea ,im just bored xd.


My guess - That way 1/3 will get stuck in filter, 1/3 in cpu block, 1/3 in GPU block.

I say use filter until you want to bench or… game? And then open the bypass for better flow.


----------



## J7SC

...trying out a new camera for my Ravens_A build work-play dual system in a heavily modded Thermaltake Core P8. It's tough to shoot through glass and with UV sensitive liquids circulating. 

Separate cooling table (2520x64 in two loops; 1320x64 /3x D5 and 1200x64 /2x D5 respectively ) does wonders for the GPUs' boost algorithms as well, per HWInfo inserts.


----------



## storm-chaser

Just pulled the trigger on this super cheap water block I want to compare it to the heatkiller under 5.7GHz load. I might even be able to use the heatkiller base plate that goes under the motherboard. 

Amazingly enough, people actually say it works rather well. For $14.99 it's hard to pass up on the curiosity angle alone.


----------



## dwolvin

I forget who used to use pin-grid crossflow, but it was a common type until a couple of generations ago. I bet it will be within 5 degrees of the heatkiller, but behind...


----------



## J7SC

storm-chaser said:


> Just pulled the trigger on this super cheap water block I want to compare it to the heatkiller under 5.7GHz load. I might even be able to use the heatkiller base plate that goes under the motherboard.
> 
> Amazingly enough, people actually say it works rather well. For $14.99 it's hard to pass up on the curiosity angle alone.
> 
> View attachment 2546985


Nice find. Looks much more useful than this really cheap 'GPU block'... >


----------



## geriatricpollywog

storm-chaser said:


> Just pulled the trigger on this super cheap water block I want to compare it to the heatkiller under 5.7GHz load. I might even be able to use the heatkiller base plate that goes under the motherboard.
> 
> Amazingly enough, people actually say it works rather well. For $14.99 it's hard to pass up on the curiosity angle alone.
> 
> View attachment 2546985


It looks like the pins directly under the inlet would receive good flow, but the pins under the outlet would receive stagnant flow. Skived fins and the jetplate solve this problem.


----------



## Fluxmaven

So I picked up a pair of blocked 7970's on ebay for $54 to play around with. They were listed by a Salvation Army so they were untested but I figured even if they were dead the proceeds were being donated so might as well give them a shot. That said, I didn't want to bother cleaning them up and building a loop if they were dead. Which lead to my brilliant idea to just bench test them with a fan pointed at the blocks lol.

First card seems to work fine. Got the drivers installed and its sitting in the 40s on idle. I'll test the other one out tomorrow. Now I just need to figure out what PC I'm going to put them in to really play with them and I'll need to pick up a crossfire bridge. I swear I had a couple that came with older motherboards but I've never used crossfire before so I probably tossed them all ages ago.

*Edit, both GPUs work. Going to clean them up and set them aside while I find a few other parts. I have a spare x470 board so I'm thinking I'll either try and find a cheap early Ryzen or grab a 5600x from microcenter and do a full AMD build.


----------



## storm-chaser

geriatricpollywog said:


> It looks like the pins directly under the inlet would receive good flow, but the pins under the outlet would receive stagnant flow. Skived fins and the jetplate solve this problem.


Agreed. Which is why I have to modify.

storm-chaser has another brilliant idea. Watch out! lol

Going to tap and drill another G1/4" port dead center in the block so the exact center of the CPU is cooled first, then the other two G1/4" ports for exit will be coming back together with a simple Y adapter to the single line custom loop.


----------



## FabricioGS

Little contribution from Brazil 🇧🇷 





























What I get:

1x 60mm side copper rad (with fresh air) with 3x Phanteks T30 fans
1x 40mm top copper rad (with fresh air) with 3x Phanteks T30 fans
(future) 1x 30mm botton Rad (with fresh air) with 3x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 300 Industrial fans. Now it's just the fans pulling fresh air 

Ryzen 7 5800x + RTX 3080 both oc'ed in the loop, with a D5 pump + reservoir combo and lots of quick disconnects


----------



## Avacado

I swear, every time I see another Lian Li O11 build it be like





__





Kapwing — Reach more people with your content







kapwi.ng


----------



## Sir Beregond

Avacado said:


> I swear, every time I see another Lian Li O11 build it be like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kapwing — Reach more people with your content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kapwi.ng


----------



## dwolvin

Better than another air cooled build.


----------



## J7SC

Sir Beregond said:


>


 Just add some racing stripes to a.) make it go faster and b.) Lian Li 011 R differentiation


----------



## Sir Beregond

J7SC said:


> Just add some racing stripes to a.) make it go faster and b.) Lian Li 011 R differentiation


And some speed holes!


----------



## J7SC

Sir Beregond said:


> And some speed holes!


...and may be some carbon fiber diffusers for the rad fans


----------



## storm-chaser

J7SC said:


> ...and may be some carbon fiber diffusers for the rad fans


Dont forget the cold air intake


----------



## Sir Beregond

storm-chaser said:


> Dont forget the cold air intake


That's what the speed holes are for.


----------



## storm-chaser

Sir Beregond said:


> That's what the speed holes are for.


lol okay, so dont forget to add _more _speed holes.


----------



## dwolvin

Holy hell, that can't be legal.


----------



## Sir Beregond




----------



## storm-chaser

El cheapo water block showed up today...


----------



## Sir Beregond

Interesting. That pin grid style is very old school. Interested to see how that goes.


----------



## storm-chaser

Sir Beregond said:


> Interesting. That pin grid style is very old school. Interested to see how that goes.


*Virtually identical temps across the board (just ran a quick torture test). Keep in mind this is a $14.99 piece and the heatkiller (heretofore known as heatcooker) is over $100. Not only that, but my flow rate more than doubled. This will be especially helpful when I am chilling it. Also note the processor is slightly overvolted here because i had it for a 5.4GHz tune earlier and forgot to drop the voltage down. It's good at 5.2 at 1.395v, fyi. I just took the heatkiller apart and again found some gunk in there. I think it's probably due to the methanol I've been running for cold weather overclocking. So I should reserve judgement for now. But I do know temps with a clean heatkiller are the same. Just flow rate that was impacted more than anything else.

I utilized the pre-existing heat killer hardware so I didn't have to remove the board, made it very straight forward. Just had to drill out the existing holes a bit in the new "collar". The springs aren't exactly perfect, but hey, it must be good to go because the temp profiles are nearly identical between both blocks. The block doesn't move around at all. 

Now take what I say with a grain of salt. Perhaps the heatcooker will do better under extreme loads like y cruncher. That's YTD. But what we know for certain is that the waterblock is more than capable of supporting this 5.2GHz CPU. If it's cold tonight i will put the chiller back on and see if I can go faster than 5.826GHz

More testing/data inbound. stay tuned!!*


----------



## J7SC

...some more pics of the dual-mobo Raven_A, this time with some of its 'nest' views


----------



## jacknhut

My front panel mod and GPU backplate arrived today . The build is now completed!


----------



## woppy101

Re tubed my pc today


----------



## OldHotness

The ole Apogee GTZ cooling the 10700.


----------



## OldHotness

View attachment 2548975


The ole Apogee GTZ cooling the 10700.


----------



## Barefooter

jacknhut said:


> My front panel mod and GPU backplate arrived today . The build is now completed!
> 
> View attachment 2548867
> View attachment 2548868
> 
> View attachment 2548865
> View attachment 2548866
> 
> 
> View attachment 2548869
> 
> 
> View attachment 2548872
> 
> 
> View attachment 2548877


Love the front panel mod! 

And great job on the tubing looks great


----------



## Sir Beregond

OldHotness said:


> View attachment 2548975
> 
> 
> The ole Apogee GTZ cooling the 10700.


Takes me back. Haven't seen an MCRes Micro in a long time.


----------



## vf-

"For those who dare" That's cute.


----------



## OldHotness

vf- said:


> "For those who dare" That's cute.


😆😆


----------



## Luggage

OldHotness said:


> View attachment 2548975
> 
> 
> The ole Apogee GTZ cooling the 10700.


rep for hose clamps! 

Though I use constant tension hose clamps - makes it really easy to do maintenance and still feel safe.








Spring Hose Clamp Light - Rotor - 11.7-13.8mm - Zinc Plated


We have discounts and trade terms if you want to buy Rotor Spring Hose Clamp Light - Rotor - 11.7-13.8mm - Zinc Plated Constant Tension from HCL.




hcl-clamping.co.uk


----------



## jacknhut

Barefooter said:


> Love the front panel mod!
> 
> And great job on the tubing looks great


Thank you. The front panel mod took a while to get but it’s worth the wait.


----------



## TeslaHUN

I built a cabinet for my external radiators . With Merv4 filter on front as a dustfilter , and HEPA filters on the side, so it will also purify the air in my room.
The side HEPA filters can be removed in 1sec (hold by magnet frame ) . The front filter/ frame also . The radiator fans are installed on a separate frame , so i can remove them all in a minute for cleaning purposes.
The pumps and all the fans will be controlled by an Aquacomputer Quadro




































































Im not a carpenter , so its not perfect , but I made what i planned 😄


----------



## Avacado

TeslaHUN said:


> I built a cabinet for my external radiators . With Merv4 filter on front as a dustfilter , and HEPA filters on the side, so it will also purify the air in my room.
> The side HEPA filters can be removed in 1sec (hold by magnet frame ) . The front filter/ frame also . The radiator fans are installed on a separate frame , so i can remove them all in a minute for cleaning purposes.
> The pumps and all the fans will be controlled by an Aquacomputer Quadro
> 
> View attachment 2550662
> View attachment 2550656
> View attachment 2550661
> View attachment 2550659
> View attachment 2550660
> View attachment 2550657
> View attachment 2550655
> View attachment 2550658
> View attachment 2550653
> View attachment 2550654
> View attachment 2550652
> 
> Im not a carpenter , so its not perfect , but I made what i planned 😄


That is one of the coolest while at the same time grossest things I have ever seen. There isn't even remotely a scenario where that much rad is needed. Still effing awesomesauce.


----------



## dwolvin

TeslaHUN said:


> I built a cabinet for my external radiators . With Merv4 filter on front as a dustfilter , and HEPA filters on the side, so it will also purify the air in my room.
> The side HEPA filters can be removed in 1sec (hold by magnet frame ) . The front filter/ frame also . The radiator fans are installed on a separate frame , so i can remove them all in a minute for cleaning purposes.
> The pumps and all the fans will be controlled by an Aquacomputer Quadro
> Im not a carpenter , so its not perfect , but I made what i planned 😄


With that much room, why not just build the system right in there? It would be super quiet...


----------



## Mithrandir8

TeslaHUN said:


> I built a cabinet for my external radiators . With Merv4 filter on front as a dustfilter , and HEPA filters on the side, so it will also purify the air in my room.
> The side HEPA filters can be removed in 1sec (hold by magnet frame ) . The front filter/ frame also . The radiator fans are installed on a separate frame , so i can remove them all in a minute for cleaning purposes.
> The pumps and all the fans will be controlled by an Aquacomputer Quadro
> 
> Im not a carpenter , so its not perfect , but I made what i planned 😄


Dang, are those XT45 SuperNovas? Even if they're 'just' the Nova that's still a crazy amount of radiator space!


----------



## TeslaHUN

Ye ,only 1080 Novas . Planning to use slow fans (600rpm max ). So I wanted huge surface area to beat the restriction (rad + thick filters ) . To my ears this is : silent

Edit :
Before (480rad ) vs after (external box) temps :

15min Stresstest ( CB 23+ Kombustor )
480 vs external
2 hour BF1 multiplayer
480 vs ext


----------



## sharyn

sharyn said:


> yeah i just tested temps in battlefied 1 and my CPU is around 75ish C while my GPU is around 50c
> will hunt for 240 or 280 rad


little update;
so after adding one more 240 XE (push- pull, only cuz I had fans laying around) from EK my temps are now 65C for CPU and for GPU it sits around 43C.


----------



## storm-chaser

Added a flow indicator and found a good place to mount it next to the passive 240mm rad (that is mounted vertically.) This is really a must have item for a custom loop. I can also drain the loop using the flow meter as a manifold via a third G1/4 port attachment to the other side. I need to clean up the loop a bit but this configuration has served me very well, so only other change I will be making is to make it a little sharper and upgrade to a less restrictive water block. I have a heatkiller IV on there right now, but I really don't like it all that much TBH. The rig looks better with the tubing in the right place, not entirely there ATM, but I will get it sorted pretty soon.


----------



## dwolvin

That's a lotta zip ties, and tube spirals...


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> That's a lotta zip ties, and tube spirals...


Correct, I spent a lot of time making sure the cooling system was operating at full potential in regards to performance. 

But it was all worth it... 

Meaning, it's the highest clocked 9600KF/9600K that's not using liquid nitrogen. (According to CPUz and HWBOT)


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! I don't have the patience, but I did use the spiral tube kink protectors back in the day. Now I just use tubing that's more kink resistant (13/10mm).

And I barely overclock- I've not had good silicon lottery luck at all.


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> And I barely overclock- I've not had good silicon lottery luck at all.


Most Intel chips from 8th gen on will go to an easy 5Ghz which is pretty respectable - so. Just need a decent cooler and they hold pretty strong. In daily driver mode, I run this 9600KF at 5.2GHz @ 1.395 volts 24/7. But you can see these chips have a pretty good overclock ceiling, which generally means you don't have to worry about winning the lottery, most chips will go 5+ Ghz.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, but I went team red the last rebuild, so not so much. Cant complain about the performance - it rocks.


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Yeah, but I went team red the last rebuild, so not so much. Cant complain about the performance - it rocks.


But intel owns Ryzen if you just want pure clock speed.
Also, Intel latency on these chips is substantially lower than Ryzen, however I don't know if this makes a difference regarding performance and snappyness of the system.
Simply based on this data alone (leaderboard, we can see that the AMD chips don't really even come close to competing with intel in terms of general overclocking. Thats really my problem with Ryzen. They don't OC. 

When AMD comes out with a chip that I can OC to 5GHz all core, I'll buy it.


----------



## dwolvin

I'm the other way- I don't really care about the clock, it's just 'can I make a kick ass computer cheaply'.


----------



## Nizzen

My benchmark setup. Mora for cpu ang gpu cooling using QD to change hardware fast. 1x 360 radiator for dimm cooling. Making my own "luck"


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> I'm the other way- I don't really care about the clock, it's just 'can I make a kick ass computer cheaply'.


Just ironic that you are saying this from a forum dedicated to overclocking!!! We should never dimmish the pursuit of performance it's a total paradox!


----------



## storm-chaser

Nizzen said:


> My benchmark setup. Mora for cpu ang gpu cooling using QD to change hardware fast. 1x 360 radiator for dimm cooling. Making my own "luck"


Slick setup and a sick video card. Looks really good! However, it appears there are two 90* fittings in the loop. you will get a substantial boost in flow if you remove those and just run the line straight down. Ideally, you don't want to have any 90* in your loop, but you probably know all of this so not trying to tell you what to do just offering a recommendation.


----------



## ilmazzo

Well, all inlet/outlet on waterblocks are "almost 90°" too even with flat fittings if you think about it so at least if someone has a very complex loop with a lot of waterblocks it can make a difference avoiding "other" restrictions otherwise it is just "angel's sex" talk....


----------



## Mithrandir8

The pressure drop from the two quick disconnects far outweights the pressure drop from two 90 degree fittings. And as long as flow rate is ok it will not make any practical difference to water temperature.


----------



## storm-chaser

Mithrandir8 said:


> The pressure drop from the two quick disconnects far outweights the pressure drop from two 90 degree fittings. And as long as flow rate is ok it will not make any practical difference to water temperature.


The pumps will work harder, especially with two 90* fittings, so there is also practical reason to run zero 90* fittings if possible, regardless of performance gains...good or bad. So removing the 90* fittings is at least beneficial in that regard. IE the pumps will last longer and run quieter.



ilmazzo said:


> Well, all inlet/outlet on waterblocks are "almost 90°" too even with flat fittings if you think about it so at least if someone has a very complex loop with a lot of waterblocks it can make a difference avoiding "other" restrictions otherwise it is just "angel's sex" talk....


Who says water blocks are almost 90*? Not I my good friend! lol
I ported my heatkiller IV. So far the testing has revealed no substantial difference in performance, but flow rate nearly doubled after this mod. Probably not a good idea unless you have a pump before and after the waterblock to really hammer the jet plate with maximum flow.



















My loop is pretty complex but has no 90* fittings, the flow rate is insane with three pumps (the heatkiller is the only restriction in the loop) but the heatkiller has been modified. This was just done out of curiosity, I'm getting a better block next month anyway. So I ported the top plate and removed the 90* restriction, the flow rate has improved substantially. In regards to temps, it's nearly identical to before. The advantage here is flow rate. The higher the flow rate the better, sure there are diminishing returns when you get above a certain point, but at the same time, you might has well take the extra load of the pumps, they will last longer.


----------



## dwolvin

Your flow rate is much more the 3 pumps than because you don't have any 90's. (imho/ymmv), but that's the thing- build what you like and need! I'm a graphics whore in game and real life so it's gotta look good (to me), while performing well. And 3 or 4 builds back I got into the 'how cheap can I pull this off' race. Makes things... interesting.


----------



## Mithrandir8

storm-chaser said:


> The pumps will work harder, especially with two 90* fittings, so there is also practical reason to run zero 90* fittings if possible, regardless of performance gains...good or bad. So removing the 90* fittings is at least beneficial in that regard. IE the pumps will last longer and run quieter.


That's actually backwards, see the pump curve below. Centrifugal pumps use more power as flow rate increases at a fixed RPM. That happens because these pumps have to work harder based on the amount of water moved, not based on dynamic head pressure. Adding additional restriction will cause the dynamic head pressure to increase, flow rate to decrease, and the pump using less energy.










But in the end of the day a few elbows won't make much difference, so the convenience is worth it to some, while others who purely prioritize performance will try to go without.


----------



## storm-chaser

Mithrandir8 said:


> That's actually backwards, see the pump curve below. Centrifugal pumps use more power as flow rate increases at a fixed RPM. That happens because these pumps have to work harder based on the amount of water moved, not based on dynamic head pressure. Adding additional restriction will cause the dynamic head pressure to increase, flow rate to decrease, and the pump using less energy.


I never said they would use less power,* I said they would run quieter and last longer, *which is a true statement. I want my pump to run at its full potential, so I this case I want the extra wattage. Because there is less backpressure, the pumps can obtain a specific RPM easier than if there are major restrictions in the loop. 

You have to think about the restriction as it increases head pressure. The motor is tuned to run at 100% and with more head pressure it's going to work harder to maintain that specific RPM (controlled via bios pwm)

The results speak for themselves, IMHO. What I noticed was that the pumps were definitely quieter and sounded much better once I removed the restrictions.


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Your flow rate is much more the 3 pumps than because you don't have any 90's. (imho/ymmv), but that's the thing- build what you like and need! I'm a graphics whore in game and real life so it's gotta look good (to me), while performing well. And 3 or 4 builds back I got into the 'how cheap can I pull this off' race. Makes things... interesting.


Yup I read you loud and clear. And yeah, you do you. We are all creative in our own ways, and Im sorry if you though I was pushing this on you.


----------



## Nizzen

storm-chaser said:


> Slick setup and a sick video card. Looks really good! However, it appears there are two 90* fittings in the loop. you will get a substantial boost in flow if you remove those and just run the line straight down. Ideally, you don't want to have any 90* in your loop, but you probably know all of this so not trying to tell you what to do just offering a recommendation.


On the Mora radiator, I'm running 2x d5 pumps, so even with 8x QD it's enough flow for cpu and 2x gpu 

The 2x 90 degree on the dimms it doesn't matter. One d5 pump on dimms and one radiator alone is crazy overkill 🤣. 
But thanx anyway for the headsup! Ps: The new Supercool Computer dimm waterblock has ~1c delta over watertemp with 1.65v on ddr5. Watertemp is 26c and load on dimms is 27.3c after 30minutes full load😆

Waterflow over the IC is pretty sick!


----------



## vf-

storm-chaser said:


> Slick setup and a sick video card. Looks really good! However, it appears there are two 90* fittings in the loop. you will get a substantial boost in flow if you remove those and just run the line straight down. Ideally, you don't want to have any 90* in your loop, but you probably know all of this so not trying to tell you what to do just offering a recommendation.


That's my next step when I tear everything down again next month to clean out the distro plate. Going to get rid of all the 90 degree fittings that I can. The only two that I wont be able to get rid of is for the GPU.

Since getting the Bykski OLED meter, it has got me hooked on optimization now. Also have the High Flow Next 2 waiting to go in.


----------



## storm-chaser

Nizzen said:


> Waterflow over the IC is pretty sick!


Oh its very sick, I can tell you that much!o


vf- said:


> That's my next step when I
> 
> 
> vf- said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's my next step when I tear everything down again next month to clean out the distro plate. Going to get rid of all the 90 degree fittings that I can. The only two that I wont be able to get rid of is for the GPU.
> 
> Since getting the Bykski OLED meter, it has got me hooked on optimization now. Also have the High Flow Next 2 waiting to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> tear everything down again next month to clean out the distro plate. Going to get rid of all the 90 degree fittings that I can. The only two that I wont be able to get rid of is for the GPU.
> 
> Since getting the Bykski OLED meter, it has got me hooked on optimization now. Also have the High Flow Next 2 waiting to go in.
Click to expand...

That looks really good, I think I might buy one next month for my 9600KF rig, (see picture above)


----------



## storm-chaser

Oh I forgot to add - The liquid metal paste showed up today. Specs said it contains 1 gram of cocaine... err liquid metal.
But it doesn't. It was literally the size of a BB when I applied it to the CPU. That's really annoying.

But despite all of that, I am a happy camper. It seems to be working VERY well, even with just the small amount.
I ran a quick torture test and my head just exploded.
It's literally lowered the peak temps by 25*F!!!
How can this be true??? Anyone else with gains like this?


----------



## storm-chaser




----------



## looniam

storm-chaser said:


> The pumps will work harder, especially with two 90* fittings, so there is also practical reason to run zero 90* fittings if possible, regardless of performance gains...good or bad. So removing the 90* fittings is at least beneficial in that regard. IE the pumps will last longer and run quieter.


not really.
EK did testing and a slim 240 radiator was more restrictive than three 90s and a cpu block (supremacy EVO) more restrictive a then nine angled fittings. 








Do angled adapter fittings really reduce flow? - ekwb.com


Probably one of the most quoted pieces of advice on building a liquid cooling loop is "don’t use many angled adapters, they reduce your flow rates". So, is it true?




www.ekwb.com





can't find the testing martin did, maybe lost. TLDR just try to avoid an angled fitting on the pump out, the rest is no worries.


----------



## mouacyk

Elbow Impacts On Pump Performance


Ever since doing pump top testing for the DDC series pumps, there was always some thought that gains from the DDC tops was larger in part (vs D5 tops) due to the sharp and small elbow at the pump i…




martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com




1.8% impact on pump-in and 3.5% on pump out. Have to redo mine soon, to get rid of this right-angle fitting from pump-out.


















New tubing soon. These were scrubbed clean for temporary assembly. Also awaiting supplies for custom cabling to reduce clutter.


----------



## storm-chaser

looniam said:


> can't find the testing martin did, maybe lost. TLDR just try to avoid an angled fitting on the pump out, the rest is no worries.


Yes, I noticed the pump out fitting was the most drag limiting on my loop as well. Still, any time I can reduce drag and increase flow I will do it (within reason).


----------



## storm-chaser

looniam said:


> EK did testing and a slim 240 radiator was more restrictive than three 90s and a cpu block (supremacy EVO) more restrictive a then nine angled fittings.


Perhaps they did a test and found that to be the case. I don't have the same slim 240mm radiator and I've been able to measure flow before and after removal of the 90* fittings and it's substantially higher without them in place. I've also tested flow through my 240 slim rad (by removing it, measuring flow and then re-attaching it and measuring again) and it does not seem to come close to the resistance I got from the 90* fittings.

EDIT.
For example, you pick up 11-15HP with an aftermarket Y pipe for an 89-95 SHO. Why? Because the original Y pipe has a 90* bend in it.


----------



## looniam

storm-chaser said:


> Yes, I noticed the pump out fitting was the most drag limiting on my loop as well. Still, any time I can reduce drag and increase flow I will do it (within reason).
> 
> View attachment 2551227


i think this graph better describes what i was mentioning:










storm-chaser said:


> Perhaps they did a test and found that to be the case. I don't have the same slim 240mm radiator and I've been able to measure flow before and after removal of the 90* fittings and it's substantially higher without them in place. I've also tested flow through my 240 slim rad (by removing it, measuring flow and then re-attaching it and measuring again) and it does not seem to come close to the resistance I got from the 90* fittings.


well i don't know how (or more like what) used to measured or what conditions. aside from EK testing, we can both look at the graph you posted and see a 90 will have ~0.155 at 1.5GPM. since resistance is cumulative, that would be a ~0.31 psi drop for a pair. 

then looking at (most any decent) rad review:
















only very fat (45-60mm) rads have less resistance. its really looking like those fitting should have not make the difference your testing showed.


----------



## taowulf

Of course, as a company that makes and sells angled fittings and has a vested interest in you putting as many fittings in your build as possible, maybe we shouldn't rely on EK's testing. 

Let's contact TechJesus and see if we can get him to expand his new testing facility into water cooling components.


----------



## storm-chaser

looniam said:


> only very fat (45-60mm) rads have less resistance. its really looking like those fitting should have not make the difference your testing showed.


Well you are in the minority then. Most water cooling experts will tell you the same thing I did. (But I am by no means an expert myself)

If you want to keep your 90* fittings based on your logic and findings, more power to you. *That is, if you dont want to maximize your loops performance. *

This is ultimately my point:
Any 90* restriction is going to impede your loops performance to some degree, and they are usually the top contributor to blocking flow, especially if they are mounted to the pump. if you have a jet plate with very fine cuts, perhaps that is more restrictive, such as a heatkiller IV or similar. 

Any 90* bend in a pipe will cause flow disturbance or impendence, and the same theory can be applied to other applications. For example, look at this new Y pipe. The only major difference between the rusty one (stock) and the new one is that the stock one has a right angle going into the cat and the new one has a smooth mandrel bend. 
This is not new stuff. With the smooth mandrel bent y pipe you pick up 11-15HP right out of the gate, by simply eliminating the 90* bend.










Not sure why you just glossed over this one, clearly the 90* fitting is a poor performer when compared to the straight through 1/2" barb fitting.


----------



## Jokesterwild

This is silly discussion, you won't notice the _performance_ difference with some 90s in your loop with the real-world operation. It's a waste of time worrying about it.


----------



## storm-chaser

Jokesterwild said:


> This is silly discussion, you won't notice the _performance_ difference with some 90s in your loop with the real-world operation. It's a waste of time worrying about it.


I know, lets just drop it after this.

you are correct, probably not a big deal to have them for most people. BUT if you are benching or something, it would be important to pull out all the stops, and for me that includes all 90* fittings as well. 

I just recommended it because I noticed a substantial difference in flow from before to after. That was the original tip I was giving him...


----------



## looniam

storm-chaser said:


> SNIP


never said they don't cause restriction so i don't know what you're getting wound up about. i said the difference isn't what you found. and it certainly doesn't make significant performance difference that will inhibit anyone from enjoying their rig.

and next time before you toss out generalization of _most water cooling experts_, i suggest you use the search functions on the forum and filter this thread. this very topic has come up several times since 2009 ya know.

so relax.


----------



## storm-chaser

looniam said:


> never said they don't cause restriction so i don't know what you're getting wound up about. i said the difference isn't what you found. and it certainly doesn't make significant performance difference that will inhibit anyone from enjoying their rig.
> 
> and next time before you toss out generalization of _most water cooling experts_, i suggest you use the search functions on the forum and filter this thread. this very topic has come up several times since 2009 ya know.
> 
> so relax.


You were saying you would not recommend ditching the fittings, and we both put forward ideas as to why they should or shouldn't be kept. That's all I'm saying that and that was my only recommendation. Sure most people won't need it and won't notice any performance gains. But we are on an overclocking forum after all. And if you really bench a lot, you will want to pull out all the stops.
, And for me, it paid off bc I relied on this same cooling system to reach 5.8ghz record.
If you want to talk more you can PM me.


----------



## looniam

storm-chaser said:


> You were saying you would not recommend ditching the fittings, and we both put forward ideas as to why they should or shouldn't be kept. That's all I'm saying that and that was my only recommendation. Sure most people won't need it and won't notice any performance gains. But we are on an overclocking forum after all. And if you really bench a lot, you will want to pull out all the stops.
> , And for me, it paid off bc I relied on this same cooling system to reach 5.8ghz record.
> If you want to talk more you can PM me.


look man, i'm not going to exchange love notes to point out i never recommended anything. i used the results from EK and then martinliquidlab's data to show it shouldn't as much as you stated. sorry if my presentation seemed personal, but to be honest you gave me nothing to work with. could very well be your pump speed was a little to low to begin with. but w/o any data who knows? it's easy to find what EK and MLL measured and what they used to measure it.

though i appreciate your concern, i am aware of my surroundings:
*THIS IS OCN!*
where verifiable testing results *>* anecdotal evidence.

nice chat.


----------



## storm-chaser

looniam said:


> though i appreciate your concern, i am aware of my surroundings:
> *THIS IS OCN!*
> where verifiable testing results *>* anecdotal evidence.


It's a silly argument, no need to beat a dead horse. Keep your 90* fittings if you are so confident in your research according to other people and according to companies that sell the actual 90* products they are allegedly "flow testing".


----------



## Jokesterwild

Pretty much done.


----------



## dwolvin

Very nice! What's the case? (I feel I should know...)


----------



## TeslaHUN

I think its a Silvetstone Alta F1.


----------



## dwolvin

Oh, I thought they had a rounded bottom corner. Must be thinking something else.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Got all the parts in and gave it a quick test... just waiting on a ek 90 bracket now


----------



## looniam

storm-chaser said:


> It's a silly argument, no need to beat a dead horse. Keep your 90* fittings if you are so confident in your research according to other people and according to companies that sell the actual 90* products they are allegedly "flow testing".


you provided the data, dipstick. 

martin liquid labs and extreme rigs are unreliable? a lot more reliable than picture of exhausts. LOL

here i'll help:









now are YOU done beating a dead horse?


----------



## storm-chaser

looniam said:


> you provided the data, dipstick.
> 
> martin liquid labs and extreme rigs are unreliable? a lot more reliable than picture of exhausts. LOL
> 
> here i'll help:
> View attachment 2551378
> 
> 
> now are YOU done beating a dead horse?


Like I said, please keep your 90* fittings since it sounds like you are not concerned about getting the most performance out of your loop and also, please stop dragging this out, your posts are turning this thread into a train wreck. I told you two or three posts back that if you wanted to drag this out and continue to beat this dead horse, you should PM me instead of blasting this thread with unreliable information and poor recommendations.


----------



## Nizzen

*Picture Gallery......?*


----------



## taowulf

storm-chaser said:


> It's a silly argument


The BEST kind.


----------



## mouacyk

taowulf said:


> The BEST kind.


Right? Evidence and popcorn provided


----------



## storm-chaser

storm-chaser said:


> are not concerned about getting the most performance out of your loop and also, please stop dragging t





mouacyk said:


> Elbow Impacts On Pump Performance
> 
> 
> Ever since doing pump top testing for the DDC series pumps, there was always some thought that gains from the DDC tops was larger in part (vs D5 tops) due to the sharp and small elbow at the pump i…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.8% impact on pump-in and 3.5% on pump out. Have to redo mine soon, to get rid of this right-angle fitting from pump-out.
> 
> View attachment 2551223
> 
> View attachment 2551224
> 
> 
> New tubing soon. These were scrubbed clean for temporary assembly. Also awaiting supplies for custom cabling to reduce clutter.


That's a trick little build you've got there. Didn't at first realize how compact it is. Is there a build thread posted here for that?


----------



## TeslaHUN

Here is my setup, running bench (rad fans @600rpm) :





3x1080 rad +dual pump (VPP755) . I built a wooden box for them (mainly for dust filtration and mechanical protection ) Since i added wheels , i can bring this outside for cleaning when needed . Both filters are easy to remove . The front filter is installed on a separate frame ,the side HEPA filters are installed with magnetic tape ,so i can replace them every 2-3 month . The 27 fans are screwed together on 2 wooden "stick" ,so i can remove them in 10 second if i want to clean them


----------



## ssgwright

wow can you say overkill... the most you need for any cpu/gpu heat dissipation is maybe 2 x 360 rads.... some would say even that is overkill... very cool setup though


----------



## Fluxmaven

That's a pretty rad setup


----------



## mouacyk

storm-chaser said:


> That's a trick little build you've got there. Didn't at first realize how compact it is. Is there a build thread posted here for that?


Here's a partial gallery: My NeverUpgradingAgainImpossibuild


----------



## mouacyk

Here's how you're supposed to build in the ZZAW B3 case:


http://imgur.com/a/LwmZ2Yj


Not at all what I did...


----------



## Fluxmaven

Picked up the GPUs for cheap untested and my buddy spilled coolant on the motherboard when he was redoing his loop and just bought a new board. So I decided to build a whole PC to test and tinker with.

Prime x470 Pro
5600x... Was going to pick up something used in case the motherboard was bad, but got the 5600x on sale for $160 at Microcenter so figured why not lol. 
16GB 3600c16
pair of MSI 7970s in crossfire. 


























Motherboard is a little janky but when I can get it to boot all the way up and have the NVMe recognized, it runs pretty good. Sometimes it takes 40 minutes to boot because it hangs on some BIOS is updating the LED firmware page. The integrated RGB on the board only works sporadically and disabling it in the BIOS seems to have no effect. Sometimes the board boots up without the long wait on that message, but occasionally one of the M.2 drives doesn't detect... 

So I'll probably play around with it a bit more then break it back down.


----------



## Insidious Supra

Water lines and 280 rad going in within the next day or so.


----------



## Insidious Supra

Went ahead and knocked it on out. Filling is a pain, lol. No reservoir and two rads, and two water blocks... I managed to spill some water along the front of the gpu (with power disconnected) , so gota hit it with a heat gun for a bit and leave it for a day. But I got almost all of the air out.


----------



## mouacyk

External thick 360mm sealed with electrical tape for performance, and filter for temp cleaning of this new loop. Alpha cool rads had lots of gunk that were shaken out, but can't be too cautious. Filter already caught some micro flecks.


----------



## ArchStanton

Hmm, where have I seen that filter before 🤣?


----------



## Trestles126

Quick water cooling question

bout to upgrade my z97 4790k system to z690 with a 12700k

i have a dual loop for the cpu I’ll have a dedicated 2 360x60mm rads

looking to see if my nickel ek supremacy evo will work for the 12 series chip and z690 board

If it will any backplate suggestions for mounting


----------



## Nizzen

Trestles126 said:


> Quick water cooling question
> 
> bout to upgrade my z97 4790k system to z690 with a 12700k
> 
> i have a dual loop for the cpu I’ll have a dedicated 2 360x60mm rads
> 
> looking to see if my nickel ek supremacy evo will work for the 12 series chip and z690 board
> 
> If it will any backplate suggestions for mounting


I'm using Ek supremacy velocity that I used for 10900k and 11900k. It works on my Apex z690 atleast. Every Asus boards has mounting holes for old coolers


----------



## Avacado

Trestles126 said:


> Quick water cooling question
> 
> bout to upgrade my z97 4790k system to z690 with a 12700k
> 
> i have a dual loop for the cpu I’ll have a dedicated 2 360x60mm rads
> 
> looking to see if my nickel ek supremacy evo will work for the 12 series chip and z690 board
> 
> If it will any backplate suggestions for mounting


EK sells the 1700 backplate for a penny.


----------



## Trestles126

Cool wasn’t sure if they tried to up sale newer blocks saying they out perform or won’t work


----------



## bearsdidit

Trestles126 said:


> Cool wasn’t sure if they tried to up sale newer blocks saying they out perform or won’t work


My EK Velocity is working quite well on my 12900K. I ended up going with the Asus Z690 and using the stock 1200 mount. However, Titan Rig was kind enough to send out a 1700 mount FOC/


----------



## Trestles126

So the supremacy evo will work just fine ?


----------



## bearsdidit

Trestles126 said:


> So the supremacy evo will work just fine ?
> View attachment 2552365


Assuming you purchased an Asus Z690 board, then yes. I ordered the 1700 bracket from TR to be safe but it doesn’t look like I’ll need it.


----------



## WebsterRKL

New custom AIO (no res) water-cooled typewriter build.

_"The sun is up, I'm so happy I could scream" 

_


----------



## WebsterRKL

That Bitspower / AquaComputer / Singularity Computers D5 pump subassembly.

Thank you Daniel, so much love for the vertical D5 mount!


----------



## storm-chaser

mouacyk said:


> External thick 360mm sealed with electrical tape for performance, and filter for temp cleaning of this new loop. Alpha cool rads had lots of gunk that were shaken out, but can't be too cautious. Filter already caught some micro flecks.
> View attachment 2552299


What's the FPI count on your alpha cool radiators?


----------



## WebsterRKL

Titan Rig MDPC-X sleeved custom cables are absolute insanity!


----------



## WebsterRKL

This is my reservoir, it is not much to behold. 

Yet the liquid swirls clockwise.


----------



## storm-chaser

Just realized I have not posted pictures of my liquid cooled z820 rigs here.

They are both nearly identical in specs but one has two 2696 v2 processors (24C/48T) and the other has two 2673 v2 processors (16C/32T). Both systems have the upgraded factory option of liquid cooling. Hard to believe these little things are rated up to 150W TDP and mandatory for processors like the 2687W v2.

Old air coolers:









water coolers (super compact, pump built into baseplate) for the dual 2696 v2 rig, with MSI RX 5700 XT Gaming X GPU.

















Water cooling on the other z820 with two E5 2673 v2 processors and MSI Radeon RX 580 Gaming X








\

















No screwdriver required. Completely tool less. 









I have a third z820 with a single E5 1680 v2 processor and liquid cooling as well. I will be draining out all the coolant and replacing it with liquid metal. Nearly identical in composition to liquid metal used as thermal paste, basically gallium and a small percentage of tin. It remains a liquid down to 33*F, but I doubt I will be using it with chiller. Yes, the liquid cooler is going to be sacrificed in the name of science. For this test I am just going to get baseline performance measured from OEM coolant vs liquid metal to see if this is a viable project to continue refining and if I should continue moving forward. I should have plenty of time to do this before the gallium totally obliterates the aluminum radiator. Curious to see how it flows relative to water. It's only twice the viscosity of water.


----------



## mouacyk

storm-chaser said:


> What's the FPI count on your alpha cool radiators?


They're both 15fpi.


----------



## JSHamlet234

storm-chaser said:


> I should have plenty of time to do this before the gallium totally obliterates the aluminum radiator. Curious to see how it flows relative to water. It's only twice the viscosity of water.


You're going to have to be quick. I've seen liquid metal turn aluminium to grizzle in less than one hour.


----------



## caraboose

storm-chaser said:


> Just realized I have not posted pictures of my liquid cooled z820 rigs here.
> 
> They are both nearly identical in specs but one has two 2696 v2 processors (24C/48T) and the other has two 2673 v2 processors (16C/32T). Both systems have the upgraded factory option of liquid cooling. Hard to believe these little things are rated up to 150W TDP and mandatory for processors like the 2687W v2.
> 
> Old air coolers:
> 
> 
> water coolers (super compact, pump built into baseplate) for the dual 2696 v2 rig, with MSI RX 5700 XT Gaming X GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> Water cooling on the other z820 with two E5 2673 v2 processors and MSI Radeon RX 580 Gaming X
> 
> \
> 
> No screwdriver required. Completely tool less.
> 
> I have a third z820 with a single E5 1680 v2 processor and liquid cooling as well. I will be draining out all the coolant and replacing it with liquid metal. Nearly identical in composition to liquid metal used as thermal paste, basically gallium and a small percentage of tin. It remains a liquid down to 33*F, but I doubt I will be using it with chiller. Yes, the liquid cooler is going to be sacrificed in the name of science. For this test I am just going to get baseline performance measured from OEM coolant vs liquid metal to see if this is a viable project to continue refining and if I should continue moving forward. I should have plenty of time to do this before the gallium totally obliterates the aluminum radiator. Curious to see how it flows relative to water. It's only twice the viscosity of water.


seems like a waste of a cooler IMO. it’ll eat through aluminum so fast you might not even know what you get for results before it’s trashed…
And not to mention possible hardware loss.

…but this is OCN… so give’r!


----------



## storm-chaser

JSHamlet234 said:


> You're going to have to be quick. I've seen liquid metal turn aluminium to grizzle in less than one hour.


I know. And liquid cooling radiators made of aluminum for computer use have relatively thin walls. Something I need to factor in for sure. I like to live dangerously, however.



caraboose said:


> seems like a waste of a cooler IMO. it’ll eat through aluminum so fast you might not even know what you get for results before it’s trashed…
> And not to mention possible hardware loss.
> 
> …but this is OCN… so give’r!


Im going to give her a rip just to see. The key question for me is the need to get the characteristics of how it will respond to heat and flow (and efficiency of the actual heat exchange) without spending all sorts of money on parts that are 100% compatible with gallium (like tungsten and tantalum_) up front. I now have a couple liquid coolers in stock for the z820 so if I obliterate one it's not the end of the world. Then again the world might be ending soon for other reasons. lol_










EDIT:
The reason I have chosen the z820 cooler is because I have good research already done with a 1680 v2 processor and the stock, OEM z820 liquid cooler (with the stock coolant) performance. The z820 cooler also is very compact, meaning I can get away with using much less actual liquid gallium than I could if I used a more standard AIO or built a custom loop to test with instead. 

Someone here also suggested the barrow pump and block combination, as seen here, which I may pursue as more or less a prototype design if initial test results go well.


----------



## JSHamlet234

storm-chaser said:


> Im going to give her a rip just to see. The key question for me is the need to get the characteristics of how it will respond to heat and flow (and efficiency of the actual heat exchange) without spending all sorts of money on parts that are 100% compatible with gallium (like tungsten and tantalum_) up front. I now have a couple liquid coolers in stock for the z820 so if I obliterate one it's not the end of the world. Then again the world might be ending soon for other reasons. lol_


What I would suggest then, since it might not survive long enough to reach steady state, is to video record a 30 minute run with the intact cooler starting from cold boot and then going under load immediately. Then do the same exact thing after doping it with liquid metal. Even if it fails at say 10 minutes, you'll be able to compare CPU to liquid and liquid to air deltas at various points in time.


----------



## WebsterRKL

Thank you EKWB - lighting so subtle - I love it!

Quantum Magnitude arrived with natural aluminum frame swapped out for the anodized black which easily disappears from view.

Motherboard: Asus Maximus XIII Apex


----------



## WebsterRKL

Bleeding the loop










Sorbothane Hemispheres 1.25in diameter 30durometer for D5 pump noise isolation - applied science!


----------



## tiggerlator

Fitted compression fittings instead of barbs, made drain rotatable.


----------



## Hiddenath

My miracle, aquaero 6 controls 8 fans, 2 on the vrm heatsinks, 3 in and 3 out, based on 6 thermal sensors, 2 vrm heatsink sensors, 1 outside (room temperature), 1 behind the main heatsink (air temperature coming out of PC ), and 2 sensors before and after cpu . silicone oil as a heat transfer medium. Radiator with dimensions 100*140*520, just a monster. Cooled 2697v3 x2, ssd 970 pro, quadro rtx 4000. super quiet


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! Is the silicon oil easy to work with, or does it wick out through the threads and joints? I feel like it would wick like crazy but don't know why I feel that way...


----------



## Hiddenath

dwolvin said:


> Nice! Is the silicon oil easy to work with, or does it wick out through the threads and joints? I feel like it would wick like crazy but don't know why I feel that way...


Before that, I had ethyl alcohol, it cooled perfectly, it only corroded all the transparent Plexiglas plates and put the pump out of action every two months, leaks are not terrible with it (once the USSR MIG-31 was cooled with alcohol, such aircraft). Everything was cool ... but then I decided to fill in a special liquid, and it turns out that it conducted a current. And as luck would have it, the fitting was torn off and everything was flooded, the mother burned out, the power supply, I had to buy a new one, thank God with a video card, everything is ok. I decided no more conductive liquids. Switched to oil, this oil is used in cooling high-voltage transformers. I'm not afraid of leaks, it is easily washed off with alcohol. There are no leaks, only I had to change all the tubes and seals, they used to be silicone, they swell from oil.
I'm waiting for the sale of leakage control LEAKSHIELD

Now I’m thinking about how to put everything nicely without removing the equipment.


----------



## dwolvin

Interesting, Thank you!


----------



## JSHamlet234

First custom loop in a long time. Just the CPU for now with a 280 and a 120, HAF XB EVO case.


----------



## storm-chaser

Hiddenath said:


> Radiator with dimensions 100*140*520, just a monster. Cooled 2697v3 x2, ssd 970 pro, quadro rtx 4000. super quiet


Is that a Alphacool monsta? (radiator)


----------



## storm-chaser

JSHamlet234 said:


> First custom loop in a long time. Just the CPU for now with a 280 and a 120, HAF XB EVO case.
> 
> View attachment 2552974
> 
> 
> View attachment 2552975
> 
> 
> View attachment 2552976


Do you have a front shot of the case? Or just brand/model of case so I can look it up? Looks great!

EDIT: You listed the case in your post, nevermind.


----------



## Hiddenath

storm-chaser said:


> Is that a Alphacool monsta? (radiator)


TFC Monsta Extreme


----------



## Sir Beregond

Trestles126 said:


> Quick water cooling question
> 
> bout to upgrade my z97 4790k system to z690 with a 12700k


Nice, I am about to upgrade from a Z97 4790k system as well.


----------



## JSHamlet234

storm-chaser said:


> Do you have a front shot of the case? Or just brand/model of case so I can look it up? Looks great!
> 
> EDIT: You listed the case in your post, nevermind.


Thanks. I've stuck with this case for a long time. There's just something about having a 200mm fan blowing down directly on the motherboard that just gives me good feelz. You can see it in the last pic if you look for it.

EDIT: Added some more pics to my original post.


----------



## L!ME




----------



## ilmazzo

I like spaghetti!

Anyway....great build!


----------



## mouacyk

ilmazzo said:


> I like spaghetti!
> 
> Anyway....great build!


Guessing there's a distro plate being used.


----------



## ArchStanton

mouacyk said:


> Guessing there's a distro plate being used.


Thinking the same, but his RAM specs (there below his avatar) make me question the possibility of a triple loop system?


----------



## L!ME

Only one Loop in an PC O11 with an Mora Inside


----------



## dwolvin

very cool, what's the manafold?


----------



## L!ME

Alphacool Es C3


----------



## Sir Beregond

Been a long time since I've seen a top mounted PSU.


----------



## cgrado

Two pumps, two 420mm rads, two small res, one 12900KF, one Evga 3800ti Hydrocopper.


----------



## tiggerlator

switched out the gtx980ti for a Asus Rog Strix GTX1080Ti Gaming 11GB


----------



## Pedropc

I currently have only the CPU cooled. I have an Obsidian 1000D modified to mount a monsta 560mm. This is how the assembly has been; 

Sorry for my English, greetings.


----------



## J7SC

...a few minor changes from earlier pics around tubing and wiring


----------



## ArchStanton

@J7SC Corrugated split loom...hmm. I know it's cheap AND totally functional, but I'm not quite sold on it aesthetically. How about you trade me your 5950X for my 5950X and a bunch of nylon hose sleeving I have laying around. Doesn't that sound nice?


----------



## storm-chaser

ilmazzo said:


> I like spaghetti!


me 2










(and - - only Rich Piana out angles the subwoofer)


----------



## J7SC

storm-chaser said:


> me 2
> 
> View attachment 2554034
> 
> 
> (and - - only Rich Piana out angles the subwoofer)
> View attachment 2554037


I have an earlier version of that subwoofer...still sounds punchy-great after all these years


----------



## D-EJ915

Those logitech subs are easy to get the cone to hit the grille which is always funny.


----------



## storm-chaser

D-EJ915 said:


> Those logitech subs are easy to get the cone to hit the grille which is always funny.


They certainly aren't what they are cracked up to be. see what I did there?


----------



## J7SC

storm-chaser said:


> They certainly aren't what they are cracked up to be. see what I did there?


...you got to water-cool the sub wisely to avoid cracking


----------



## woppy101




----------



## ssgwright

woppy101 said:


> View attachment 2554061
> View attachment 2554062
> View attachment 2554063
> View attachment 2554064


sick build! good job!


----------



## L!ME

My HTPC with integrated AMP.


----------



## tiggerlator

L!ME said:


> My HTPC with integrated AMP.
> View attachment 2554083
> 
> View attachment 2554082


Love the watercooled amp modules 

Does the massive toroidal tranny not cause no interference though?


----------



## L!ME

tiggerlator said:


> Does the massive toroidal tranny not cause no interference though?


Till now i do Not have any Problems, but i Had build a shield Out of Cooper, that i will Install by the next HW Change.


----------



## mouacyk

L!ME said:


> My HTPC with integrated AMP.
> View attachment 2554083
> 
> View attachment 2554082


Can someone explain in layman what is going on here?


----------



## Avacado

mouacyk said:


> Can someone explain in layman what is going on here?


He built a movie streaming computer that has a built in audio amplifier in it.


----------



## MyUsername

I had a bash at a couple of loops, no leaks and seems to run okay. I'm happy.


----------



## L!ME

mouacyk said:


> Can someone explain in layman what is going on here?


Its my Idea of a Mediacenter. Watercooled 4 Channel Highclass Diy Amplifier and a Gigabyte B550i with watercooling 32gb 3800 cl14 Watercooled a 5950x watercooled and a 6900xt LC Watercooled and a Fusion Io SX300 6,4tb Watercooled a 970evo plus 1tb with massiv Cooper passivcooling integradet with the b550 chipset cooler. Everything very Special, and fitting everything Inside was Not realy easy, but everything works.


----------



## bearsdidit

Very happy with the build so far. I need to work on cable management but this set up has been great with my MoRa.


----------



## storm-chaser

J7SC said:


> ...a few minor changes from earlier pics around tubing and wiring


I always wonder why people don't use stainless steel weave hoses; I think it would look really good, and secondarily they remain aesthetic for the life of the PC. 

I personally think they would look really good in a PC with a metal theme.


----------



## J7SC

storm-chaser said:


> I always wonder why people don't use stainless steel weave hoses; I think it would look really good, and secondarily they remain aesthetic for the life of the PC.
> 
> I personally think they would look really good in a PC with a metal theme.


I've seen some 'hot-rod' style stainless steel weave PC cooling - one day, I might just do that myself. 

On my current setup, I for now want to retain the option to move GPUs between the two mobos. In addition, I am hiding fan and RGB wires in there so it has to be open on one side.


----------



## storm-chaser

L!ME said:


> My HTPC with integrated AMP.
> View attachment 2554083
> 
> View attachment 2554082


That amp has the potential to significantly increase in case temps, especially an HTPC like this. What are your plans to keep case temps within nominal margins?


----------



## L!ME

storm-chaser said:


> That amp has the potential to significantly increase in case temps, especially an HTPC like this. What are your plans to keep case temps within nominal margins?


Its a hybrid Design, only the preamp ist Tube based and generates about 4w Heat. The Output Stage ist Watercooled. The complete heat will be pulled Out Boy the powersupply.


----------



## caraboose

storm-chaser said:


> I always wonder why people don't use stainless steel weave hoses; I think it would look really good, and secondarily they remain aesthetic for the life of the PC.
> 
> I personally think they would look really good in a PC with a metal theme.


Cause they're such a pain in the ass to cut and crimp to the right length


----------



## storm-chaser

caraboose said:


> Cause they're such a pain in the ass to cut and crimp to the right length


You just put electrical tape at the end before you cut it. But I do admit, they can be a major PITA. 

You could probably have some custom made by a shop and not break the bank doing it.


----------



## storm-chaser

@caraboose 
Looks like we are brothers in arms. The rare 9600KF makes a showing.










what do you run in terms of clock speeds and IMC?


----------



## caraboose

storm-chaser said:


> You just put electrical tape at the end before you cut it. But I do admit, they can be a major PITA.
> 
> You could probably have some custom made by a shop and not break the bank doing it.


I was looking into having some custom built in g1/4 thread, it was some astronomical number for my setup, something like $800... I didn't want to try it myself, cause I know I'd screw it up badly... lol



storm-chaser said:


> @caraboose
> Looks like we are brothers in arms. The rare 9600KF makes a showing.
> what do you run in terms of clock speeds and IMC?


I'm just running everything stock for now, I haven't had much time to game lately, and at stock it's more than sufficient for any of the stuff I do. I know, I'm a disgrace...
I haven't seen many people at all with the 9600KF, I have a few buddies with the 9600K though. I should really update my sig-rig though, it's a bit dated haha.


----------



## storm-chaser

caraboose said:


> I was looking into having some custom built in g1/4 thread, it was some astronomical number for my setup, something like $800... I didn't want to try it myself, cause I know I'd screw it up badly... lol


Then you went to the wrong shop; it's a very easy process once you know what you are doing.


----------



## Pings

I've been a member for years, but I've never been able to join the ranks of *OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery.* Today that changes. Check out my 1st custom loop.



















CPU: Intel Core i9 12900K
Motherboard: ASRock Z690 Phantom Gaming-ITX
GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3080 Ti FE
RAM: CORSAIR 16GB DDR5 5600 ² ⁽³²ᴳᴮ⁾
Hard Drives: WD Black SN750 NVMe SSD 1TB ²
Case : Lian Li O11 AIR Mini Black
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G6
• CableMod Custom ModMesh Cable Extensions
Cooling:
• Corsair iCUE Commander Core XT
• EKWB EK-Quantum Vector FE RTX 3080 SE
• EKWB EK-Quantum Velocity² 1700
• EKWB EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 120
• Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 MP 240 ³
• Phanteks T30 120mm ⁶
• ARCTIC P14 140mm ²
• SCYTHE Kaze Flex 120mm Black
Fittings:
• EK-Torque Angled 90° ⁶
• EK-Torque Angled 45° ³
• EK-Quantum Torque HDC ⁸
• EK-Quantum Torque STC ⁴
• EK-Quantum Torque Rotary Offset 3 ²
• EK-Quantum Torque Rotary Offset 14 ²
• EK-Quantum Torque Extender Static MF 7
• EK-Loop Temperature Plug Sensor
Tubing:
• EK-Tube ZMT Rubber 15.9/9.5mm
• EK-Loop Hard Tube 14mm Acrylic
• Rust-Oleum Universal Matte Gunmetal Spray Paint


----------



## ArchStanton

@Pings I really like the matte finish on the hardline. It makes it look like steel hydraulic lines to me.


----------



## Pedropc

My PC at the moment, the components are those of the firm. All the best.


----------



## ArchStanton

@Pedropc Sexy XTOP revo mount . My OCD is demanding cable combs for the 24 pin, 3 x8 PCIE, and 2 x 8 EPS 12v .


----------



## cneuhauser

Pings said:


> I've been a member for years, but I've never been able to join the ranks of *OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery.* Today that changes. Check out my 1st custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i9 12900K
> Motherboard: ASRock Z690 Phantom Gaming-ITX
> GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3080 Ti FE
> RAM: CORSAIR 16GB DDR5 5600 ² ⁽³²ᴳᴮ⁾
> Hard Drives: WD Black SN750 NVMe SSD 1TB ²
> Case : Lian Li O11 AIR Mini Black
> Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G6
> • CableMod Custom ModMesh Cable Extensions
> Cooling:
> • Corsair iCUE Commander Core XT
> • EKWB EK-Quantum Vector FE RTX 3080 SE
> • EKWB EK-Quantum Velocity² 1700
> • EKWB EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 120
> • Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 MP 240 ³
> • Phanteks T30 120mm ⁶
> • ARCTIC P14 140mm ²
> • SCYTHE Kaze Flex 120mm Black
> Fittings:
> • EK-Torque Angled 90° ⁶
> • EK-Torque Angled 45° ³
> • EK-Quantum Torque HDC ⁸
> • EK-Quantum Torque STC ⁴
> • EK-Quantum Torque Rotary Offset 3 ²
> • EK-Quantum Torque Rotary Offset 14 ²
> • EK-Quantum Torque Extender Static MF 7
> • EK-Loop Temperature Plug Sensor
> Tubing:
> • EK-Tube ZMT Rubber 15.9/9.5mm
> • EK-Loop Hard Tube 14mm Acrylic
> • Rust-Oleum Universal Matte Gunmetal Spray Paint


Wow...that's your first waterloop build? And you went hard tube? That's like going from highschool to the Majors! _In my best Vader voice_ "Impressive"


----------



## ZealotKi11er

My latest iteration. 12900K @ Stock + 6900 XT @ 2800MHz


----------



## nycgtr




----------



## Dire Squirrel

Bleeding the old box after some much needed fresh coolant.
Still got lots of cleaning up and cable manegement to do, but that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Also; yes, that is 2X360mm rads for the CPU and the GPU on air. It amuses me how much that bothers some people


----------



## ArchStanton

@ZealotKi11er I'm a sucker for "classic" blue .

@nycgtr TAKE YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY SKILLS AND...make my stuff look half as good please 🤣.


----------



## Luggage

Edit: fumble


----------



## D-EJ915

nycgtr said:


> View attachment 2555724


Saw this one on the asus rog stream, sick build.


----------



## Pings

cneuhauser said:


> Wow...that's your first waterloop build? And you went hard tube? That's like going from highschool to the Majors! _In my best Vader voice_ "Impressive"


Yep, but being HVAC guy, it wasn't that hard. Actually, I would have been more comfortable bending metal. I already have plans on going to stainless steel this summer.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

leak testing, fingers crossed.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

all good!!! yay for another 011 build xD


----------



## storm-chaser

ArchStanton said:


> @ZealotKi11er I'm a sucker for "classic" blue .
> 
> @nycgtr TAKE YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY SKILLS AND...make my stuff look half as good please 🤣.




I too, am a sucker for "classic" blue. 



















CoolerMaster Sileo 500 case (NOT known for use w/ water cooling)
1x360mm rad
1x240mm rad
1x80mm* x *120mm rad 
1x120mm rad


----------



## Hiddenath

Apocalypse Maow said:


> all good!!! yay for another 011 build xD
> View attachment 2556210


The video card is connected incorrectly. Is she cool enough for you?


----------



## MrFox

Here are my two builds. Specs noted in my signature. Everyone have a blessed Good Friday and a happy Easter.

WRAITH - Built for Fun








Near the bottom of the photo you can see a 5-channel Lamptron CF-25 fan controller. I have a separate 450W PSU attached to the underside of the desk. That powers the D5 pumps and 18 fans on the MO-RA 360 so I can run the chiller and pumps to circulate cold water through the system while the PC is turned off. When I am benching without the radiator (direct to chiller) I can turn off all of the fans while leaving the three pumps running. (Side benefit: Also good for leak testing after working on things with the PC unplugged.)






BANSHEE - Built for Work


----------



## caraboose

Pings said:


> Yep, but being HVAC guy, it wasn't that hard. Actually, I would have been more comfortable bending metal. I already have plans on going to stainless steel this summer.


----------



## ArchStanton

Hiddenath said:


> The video card is connected incorrectly. Is she cool enough for you?


Hey all, is there some ABP trickery going on here? I'm going to be lazy and not look up the specs that I suspect @Apocalypse Maow has posted elsewhere.


----------



## WebsterRKL

Custom AIO, with no reservoir - typewriter build amazing speed.


----------



## Trestles126

Pings said:


> I've been a member for years, but I've never been able to join the ranks of *OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery.* Today that changes. Check out my 1st custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i9 12900K
> Motherboard: ASRock Z690 Phantom Gaming-ITX
> GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3080 Ti FE
> RAM: CORSAIR 16GB DDR5 5600 ² ⁽³²ᴳᴮ⁾
> Hard Drives: WD Black SN750 NVMe SSD 1TB ²
> Case : Lian Li O11 AIR Mini Black
> Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G6
> • CableMod Custom ModMesh Cable Extensions
> Cooling:
> • Corsair iCUE Commander Core XT
> • EKWB EK-Quantum Vector FE RTX 3080 SE
> • EKWB EK-Quantum Velocity² 1700
> • EKWB EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 120
> • Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 MP 240 ³
> • Phanteks T30 120mm ⁶
> • ARCTIC P14 140mm ²
> • SCYTHE Kaze Flex 120mm Black
> Fittings:
> • EK-Torque Angled 90° ⁶
> • EK-Torque Angled 45° ³
> • EK-Quantum Torque HDC ⁸
> • EK-Quantum Torque STC ⁴
> • EK-Quantum Torque Rotary Offset 3 ²
> • EK-Quantum Torque Rotary Offset 14 ²
> • EK-Quantum Torque Extender Static MF 7
> • EK-Loop Temperature Plug Sensor
> Tubing:
> • EK-Tube ZMT Rubber 15.9/9.5mm
> • EK-Loop Hard Tube 14mm Acrylic
> • Rust-Oleum Universal Matte Gunmetal Spray Paint



going on 6 years with stainless tube runs in my caselabs.... no signs of reactions or issues most said would happen. if you want i can find the supplier i ordered the stick from and the grade


----------



## tiggerlator

Finally got a full cover block for my GTX1080Ti. old block is at the bottom on first pic.


----------



## dwolvin

Same pic?


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Same pic?


Maybe this is it?


----------



## tiggerlator

New GPU block, old one is at the bottom yes circled


----------



## dwolvin

Ah!


----------



## TeslaHUN

tiggerlator said:


> Finally got a full cover block for my GTX1080Ti. old block is at the bottom on first pic.
> View attachment 2557193
> View attachment 2557194


How are the temps changed compared to the Universal block ? Did U use passive ram ,vrm heatsinks with the uni block ?


----------



## storm-chaser

Here is my latest work, it's a z840 with factory liquid cooling, and of course I had to go classic blue...



















































test


----------



## Sir Beregond

storm-chaser said:


> Here is my latest work, it's a z840 with factory liquid cooling, and of course I had to go classic blue...
> 
> View attachment 2557241
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2557243
> View attachment 2557247
> 
> View attachment 2557246
> 
> View attachment 2557245
> 
> View attachment 2557244
> 
> 
> test


Needs more octopus tubes.


----------



## dwolvin

storm-chaser said:


> Here is my latest work, it's a z840 with factory liquid cooling, and of course I had to go classic blue...
> test


Do those have pumps in the base, or are they passive radiators?


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Do those have pumps in the base, or are they passive radiators?


Yes, pumps are in the base of the cooler. IIRC these coolers are 90mm x 90mm and cooled by two 80mm high performance fans (that are very quiet)
The liquid metal really lowers temps substantially, these have no problem keeping it cool at all core turbo of 2.8GHz @ 145 W TDP. Asatek design.


----------



## storm-chaser

Sir Beregond said:


> Needs more octopus tubes.


Im so over that, glad the rig is dismantled. I'll be riding the Z840 wave from here on out. Of course, unless you guys want to see more of that in the z840. 
I say goodby to the 9600KF guys. Still runs fine and can go to 5.8GHz, but it was time to move on. Of course most of this will be repurposed or sold for future builds.


----------



## tiggerlator

TeslaHUN said:


> How are the temps changed compared to the Universal block ? Did U use passive ram ,vrm heatsinks with the uni block ?


Temps are a lot better, was about 50c gaming. about 58-60 with old block. The card had a mid plate, so i just stuck some small sinks on there, not perfect but was ok, and glad of the mid plate. It does look better too, thogh temps are more important i guess.

The block was £92 from AliExpress


----------



## Barefooter

nycgtr said:


> View attachment 2555723
> View attachment 2555726
> View attachment 2555727
> 
> View attachment 2555728
> 
> View attachment 2555729
> 
> View attachment 2555725
> View attachment 2555730
> 
> View attachment 2555724
> View attachment 2555731


That's a beauty! Nice work


----------



## mhineareyoubulletproof

Sc00ter said:


> I've recently been eyeing the Corsair 5000D Airflow to replace the 011 XL, as I quickly grew tired of the look. Knowing I had to dismantle the loop so I could install my 5900X and vertically mounted 3090 FE, I decided to go ahead with the case swap and loop reconfiguration. During the process, I also swapped out my old 3x360 EKWB PE rads for 2x360 Corsair XR5 rads.
> 
> This is my 3rd custom loop build and this time I wanted to focus on function over form (mostly), with minimal RGB. The idea behind the somewhat odd run configuration, was to keep the GPU and CPU runs separated with enough tube length that I could easily pull each or both of the blocks and set them to the side, without draining the loop. It will come in handy when I inevitably want to upgrade individual components and/or add NVME Gen 4 drives to the MB, down the road.
> 
> The vertical mount I used is the EKWB vertical mount, which I originally purchased for the 011 XL (*LINK*) in preparation for the 3090 FE w/Corsair block. Technically, this mount doesn't work with the 5000D because this case has horizontal bars where the PCI brackets mount. However, those bars were easy to remove with my dremel and a little bit of patience. I'm happy to report that removing those bars did not seem to diminish the rigidity of the side mounting points, where the thumb screws attach.
> 
> As much as I tried to avoid them, I did have to use one 90 degree fitting in the loop. But, overall, I am quite happy with the end result.
> 
> *Before*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *After*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have some wire cleanup to do behind the case. Ignore that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I do love how it turned out, I've already decided that next time I'm going to do a smaller form factor build with an external MO-RA3, dual pumps and a reservoir. There's a storage closet just on the other side of the wall, where I could easily mount all those external components and run the tubing through the wall. But that's a project for another time.


luv what u did as for that tubes it goes well ....nice


----------



## tiggerlator

Delete, bbuggered it up


----------



## tiggerlator

Sc00ter said:


> I've recently been eyeing the Corsair 5000D Airflow to replace the 011 XL, as I quickly grew tired of the look. Knowing I had to dismantle the loop so I could install my 5900X and vertically mounted 3090 FE, I decided to go ahead with the case swap and loop reconfiguration. During the process, I also swapped out my old 3x360 EKWB PE rads for 2x360 Corsair XR5 rads.
> 
> This is my 3rd custom loop build and this time I wanted to focus on function over form (mostly), with minimal RGB. The idea behind the somewhat odd run configuration, was to keep the GPU and CPU runs separated with enough tube length that I could easily pull each or both of the blocks and set them to the side, without draining the loop. It will come in handy when I inevitably want to upgrade individual components and/or add NVME Gen 4 drives to the MB, down the road.
> 
> The vertical mount I used is the EKWB vertical mount, which I originally purchased for the 011 XL (*LINK*) in preparation for the 3090 FE w/Corsair block. Technically, this mount doesn't work with the 5000D because this case has horizontal bars where the PCI brackets mount. However, those bars were easy to remove with my dremel and a little bit of patience. I'm happy to report that removing those bars did not seem to diminish the rigidity of the side mounting points, where the thumb screws attach.
> 
> As much as I tried to avoid them, I did have to use one 90 degree fitting in the loop. But, overall, I am quite happy with the end result.
> 
> *Before*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *After*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have some wire cleanup to do behind the case. Ignore that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I do love how it turned out, I've already decided that next time I'm going to do a smaller form factor build with an external MO-RA3, dual pumps and a reservoir. There's a storage closet just on the other side of the wall, where I could easily mount all those external components and run the tubing through the wall. But that's a project for another time.


I prefer the before. i like the chimney air setup on the lian li, but it's yor system.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Broke everything down and cleaned all blocks after finding a spot of algae in CPU block. Ran new tubing and cleaned all fittings. I had mayhems pastel white left over that's pretty old and used it. Heard they discontinued some products and I could not find a white mayhems coolant anywhere. I had ordered cryofuel (my mistake) and read about all the terrible reviews. Mayhems looks a little light, not sure if it is faded due to age or if it needs a slightly higher concentration.

Does the coolant look faded or a bit off? Should I consider raising the concentration?


----------



## dwolvin

If you are getting enough light in the case to grow algae, I'd say so... There is a shelf life but if it was stored in a cool dark area you should be fine. But pretty much everyone seems to have given up on opaque fluids.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

dwolvin said:


> If you are getting enough light in the case to grow algae, I'd say so... There is a shelf life but if it was stored in a cool dark area you should be fine. But pretty much everyone seems to have given up on opaque fluids.


It seems as though a few years ago pastels/opaque were so popular. Now I see clear mixes are some of the top sellers. Is the consensus that opaques are not worth the hassle?

What fluids are popular now? Just clear mixed?


----------



## Ketku-

My project is in this batch ready, DDR5 has also been obtained under the water block and the graphics card is finally in the Vertical position. Something could certainly have been done differently but I myself am happy and have cold water to keep but I get air bubbles with time out of the loop. The 1000D case is yes the best in terms of space build  But probably my last hard tube build.


----------



## dwolvin

xGeNeSisx said:


> It seems as though a few years ago pastels/opaque were so popular. Now I see clear mixes are some of the top sellers. Is the consensus that opaques are not worth the hassle?
> 
> What fluids are popular now? Just clear mixed?


I'd say go with the color that looks good with your build (UV optional). Some people are just running auto/motorcycle/airplane cool and that has the color they want, but I've always gotten concentrated mixes. Started with EK, then Mayhems (I think XT-1). And use fresh distilled or better water in a decently clean loop = no issues for a long time. I've never had to tear down a loop that wasn't my fault. (Blew the last of the vinegar out of a block because I lost my freakin mind).


----------



## Sir Beregond

xGeNeSisx said:


> It seems as though a few years ago pastels/opaque were so popular. Now I see clear mixes are some of the top sellers. Is the consensus that opaques are not worth the hassle?
> 
> What fluids are popular now? Just clear mixed?


I think opaques are still popular among the "aesthetics over all" crowd like r/watercooling. For most of them, that's their first time doing it and they'll eventually get hit with the maintenance nightmare that is opaques, especially the EK ones that sub uses.

I think most here just say its not worth the hassle as no matter what the marketing says, opaques still have particle fallout, gunk up blocks, and depending on the color, can stain parts, and in the end nano particles are abrasive over time, and can further damage shoddy nickel plating for instance.


----------



## Ashcroft

Hiddenath said:


> The video card is connected incorrectly. Is she cool enough for you?


It looks like it has an actively cooled back plate so its equivalent to two blocks in series which is why the inlet and outlet end up on the same side of the terminal area.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Sir Beregond said:


> I think opaques are still popular among the "aesthetics over all" crowd like r/watercooling. For most of them, that's their first time doing it and they'll eventually get hit with the maintenance nightmare that is opaques, especially the EK ones that sub uses.
> 
> I think most here just say its not worth the hassle as no matter what the marketing says, opaques still have particle fallout, gunk up blocks, and depending on the color, can stain parts, and in the end nano particles are abrasive over time, and can further damage shoddy nickel plating for instance.


I'll probably learn the same lesson in time. I don't plan on neglecting my loop again like i did previously. I added in a drain valve and have a piece of empty tubing attached that I can just pull through the back of the case and open up. The current coolant is in but in a few months I'll clean it out and may switch to Mayhems X1 clear. Cleaning up the reminant plasticizer coating and built up gunk in the rads and blocks was a huge project that I'd prefer to avoid repeating. I am very happy I didn't end up using the cryofuel after reading the reviews. I'm inclined to say some problems arise as it is highly sensitive to pH and that is why it explicitly states it is incompatible with Blitz, but it just seems like **** coolant overall.


----------



## Sir Beregond

xGeNeSisx said:


> I'll probably learn the same lesson in time. I don't plan on neglecting my loop again like i did previously. I added in a drain valve and have a piece of empty tubing attached that I can just pull through the back of the case and open up. The current coolant is in but in a few months I'll clean it out and may switch to Mayhems X1 clear. Cleaning up the reminant plasticizer coating and built up gunk in the rads and blocks was a huge project that I'd prefer to avoid repeating. I am very happy I didn't end up using the cryofuel after reading the reviews. I'm inclined to say some problems arise as it is highly sensitive to pH and that is why it explicitly states it is incompatible with Blitz, but it just seems like **** coolant overall.


Yeah I have seen so many horror stories with Mystic Fog and Cryofuel in general just seems like EK bottled the standing pond water from the office parking lot. Even seen their clear get nasty and gunk up.

Nice job putting in a drain valve. Something I learned very quickly I needed after my first loop.


----------



## Marty Z

My very first liquid build


----------



## Sir Beregond

Marty Z said:


> My very first liquid build
> 
> View attachment 2561821
> View attachment 2561822


Very nice, looks like the foaming cleared up?


----------



## ssgwright

Sir Beregond said:


> Very nice, looks like the foaming cleared up?



agree... very nice build!


----------



## Marty Z

Sir Beregond said:


> Very nice, looks like the foaming cleared up?


Yep, it cleared up after I moved the PC to it's final location. Looks like the liquid sloshing around in the res cleared it up.


----------



## ilmazzo

Very nice build! 

The (custom?) sensor panel perfectly match the rest of the build, I'm tempted in doing something like that but I think having a tablet below my monitor will be better for both reading the values (my pc is on my right and I would need to move my head near it to be able to read so .. meh) and in case I need something on my bench table (videos, documentation and so on) a tablet is much more flexible while unplugged. I would buy a used android 9'' tablet (1280x720 for readability) for cheap and install the wiredxdisplay app to get the second monitor through USB....


----------



## Marty Z

Yes, the sensor panel is difficult to read at an angle. I am considering pulling it out. It's just a standard 7in led from amazon with a 3D printed bezel.


----------



## Taint3dBulge




----------



## strong island 1

Marty Z said:


> My very first liquid build


wow looks great, that res to gpu bend must have been tough, im still having trouble with double bends, need a better jig and work area, the corsair jig, not great for double bends as the tube kept spinning on me. I should have layed it down on the desk instead of doing in the air, but gave up haha


----------



## Marty Z

strong island 1 said:


> wow looks great, that res to gpu bend must have been tough, im still having trouble with double bends, need a better jig and work area, the corsair jig, not great for double bends as the tube kept spinning on me. I should have layed it down on the desk instead of doing in the air, but gave up haha


The CPU to top rad was the hardest, with 3 bends. Took me 4 tries and it's still not perfect.

I used the Barrow jig (3 separate jigs 45, 90, and 180), and I screwed them down to the work bench.


----------



## vf-

Marty Z said:


> The CPU to top rad was the hardest, with 3 bends. Took me 4 tries and it's still not perfect.
> 
> I used the Barrow jig (3 separate jigs 45, 90, and 180), and I screwed them down to the work bench.


Is there even a mould for small S shapes that are off by a CM or so... Like the EK snake fittings.

Oh... Barrow ABQYG-16A V2 Professional ABS Acrylic / PETG Hardline Tube Bender [BAR-HT11] from WatercoolingUK


----------



## Marty Z

vf- said:


> Is there even a mould for small S shapes that are off by a CM or so... Like the EK snake fittings.
> 
> Oh... Barrow ABQYG-16A V2 Professional ABS Acrylic / PETG Hardline Tube Bender [BAR-HT11] from WatercoolingUK


For the small ones i went half way around the 180. The 90 was too big


----------



## strong island 1

Marty Z said:


> The CPU to top rad was the hardest, with 3 bends. Took me 4 tries and it's still not perfect.
> 
> I used the Barrow jig (3 separate jigs 45, 90, and 180), and I screwed them down to the work bench.


ya I actually ended up buying the barrow jig set also, but I just went with single bends and 90's, my apartment small and so was my table. gonna post it soon, just gonna redo 1 bend. It was my first time with acryllic, petg much easier to work with. petg was especially easier to cut with the spinning cutter, I was going nuts with the hacksaw.

These 2 things were the best things I could have bought, made it so easy, my next rebuild my bends will be much better. this little table saw is amazing, cuts so easy and the primochill deburr tool, does the outer and inner so easy.

but I just wanted to be done

delidded my 12900k and trying the direct die block, its ugly compared to the ek velocity2 I bought, but it was fun to try









but this build was about performance, no rgb software, no rgb, apex board vs the formula I originally had and noctua fans, direct die.

just wish I bought thicker rad for bottom, but I originally bought everything for the fractal design define 7 but I wanted 3 rads and better airflow.

but build quality so much better with fractal vs lian li, not even close imo


----------



## Marty Z

I was considering swapping out my ll120s for noctuas, but didn't know how it would look. Thanks for the pic, looks like I will be switching to the noctuas in the near future.

Oh, and that harbor freight saw is a life saver. bought it a long time ago for cutting down carbon arrows, but it works perfectly for acrylic tubes.


----------



## strong island 1

Marty Z said:


> I was considering swapping out my ll120s for noctuas, but didn't know how it would look. Thanks for the pic, looks like I will be switching to the noctuas in the near future.
> 
> Oh, and that harbor freight saw is a life saver. bought it a long time ago for cutting down carbon arrows, but it works perfectly for acrylic tubes.


ya I originally bought the corsair cutting kit and started using the hacksaw and I was so frustrated, got the table saw on amazon for like $50, I saw the harbor freight one for cheaper, just didnt have time to go there.

that primochill bit really is incredible also, couldnt believe how amazing and fast it works, beats that horrible sound the deburr tools make haha.

i really like the look of the noctua chromax fans, my last build I had so much rgb and just kinda got sick of it and the asus software, just bought 2 white led strips for a little lighting when I want it, the cable mod lights come with a little remote, I think its way better than the horrible software asus has


----------



## Sir Beregond

That Harbor Freight saw didn't work for me. Would not cut all the way through a 14mm tube and the housing interfered if you already had bends in it and were simply cutting to size. So guess it's great for smaller tubes. I ended up just getting a much beefier hacksaw from Home Depot and that works perfectly.


----------



## Marty Z

I had 14mm tubes also. I cut as far as it went, left maybe .5mm remaining, I broke it off and filed the nub down. Plus you get a square cut every time.


----------



## strong island 1

Sir Beregond said:


> That Harbor Freight saw didn't work for me. Would not cut all the way through a 14mm tube and the housing interfered if you already had bends in it and were simply cutting to size. So guess it's great for smaller tubes. I ended up just getting a much beefier hacksaw from Home Depot and that works perfectly.
> 
> View attachment 2562645


the one I bought from amazon came with 3 blades, one is 2 5/16" hss and is perfect to cut all the way thru 14mm tubing.









JOUNJIP Mini Miter Cut-Off Chop Saw for Hobby Miniature Model Making, Carbon Arrow Shafts, Zinc Stained Glass Came, 223/5.56 Brass - Cuts Max. 1/2"High x 1/2"Wide or 1/4"H x 3/4"W - - Amazon.com


JOUNJIP Mini Miter Cut-Off Chop Saw for Hobby Miniature Model Making, Carbon Arrow Shafts, Zinc Stained Glass Came, 223/5.56 Brass - Cuts Max. 1/2"High x 1/2"Wide or 1/4"H x 3/4"W - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com


----------



## Sir Beregond

Marty Z said:


> I had 14mm tubes also. I cut as far as it went, left maybe .5mm remaining, I broke it off and filed the nub down. Plus you get a square cut every time.


Huh, mine was not cutting that far and usually necessitated flipping the tube to finish cutting which was sometimes a pain to line up with the existing cut.

I just switched to the very beefy/heavy hacksaw and got a straight cut every time.


----------



## Sir Beregond

strong island 1 said:


> the one I bought from amazon came with 3 blades, one is 2 5/16" hss and is perfect to cut all the way thru 14mm tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JOUNJIP Mini Miter Cut-Off Chop Saw for Hobby Miniature Model Making, Carbon Arrow Shafts, Zinc Stained Glass Came, 223/5.56 Brass - Cuts Max. 1/2"High x 1/2"Wide or 1/4"H x 3/4"W - - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> JOUNJIP Mini Miter Cut-Off Chop Saw for Hobby Miniature Model Making, Carbon Arrow Shafts, Zinc Stained Glass Came, 223/5.56 Brass - Cuts Max. 1/2"High x 1/2"Wide or 1/4"H x 3/4"W - - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


That's good to know. I was searching for one that had bigger than a 2" saw and was not having much luck. May pick this up in the future. But about done with my current build here shortly.

Edit: stupid auto"correct".


----------



## Shawnb99

strong island 1 said:


> ya I actually ended up buying the barrow jig set also, but I just went with single bends and 90's, my apartment small and so was my table. gonna post it soon, just gonna redo 1 bend. It was my first time with acryllic, petg much easier to work with. petg was especially easier to cut with the spinning cutter, I was going nuts with the hacksaw.
> 
> These 2 things were the best things I could have bought, made it so easy, my next rebuild my bends will be much better. this little table saw is amazing, cuts so easy and the primochill deburr tool, does the outer and inner so easy.
> 
> but I just wanted to be done
> 
> delidded my 12900k and trying the direct die block, its ugly compared to the ek velocity2 I bought, but it was fun to try
> 
> but this build was about performance, no rgb software, no rgb, apex board vs the formula I originally had and noctua fans, direct die.
> 
> just wish I bought thicker rad for bottom, but I originally bought everything for the fractal design define 7 but I wanted 3 rads and better airflow.
> 
> but build quality so much better with fractal vs lian li, not even close imo
> View attachment 2562637



How you liking the Reverse ATX layout?


----------



## strong island 1

Sir Beregond said:


> That's good to know. I was searching for one that had bigger than a 2" saw and was not having much luck. May pick this up in the future. But about done with my current child here shortly.


ya the 2 5/16" was just perfect to go all the way thru, but you could just order a blade that size for yours. But that was the reason I picked that model, also came with an extra belt and 2 motor brushes, not a bad deal for $60.

wish I would have spent more time on my bends but I started trying to build this when gpus were hard to get, so between waiting for gpu and then deciding to go direct die and waiting for that from taiwan, and switching parts so many times, and being so busy with work, I just wanted to get done finally and enjoy the build, been months of just staring at parts.

i got the qd-oled monitor and im so anxious to test it.


----------



## strong island 1

Shawnb99 said:


> How you liking the Reverse ATX layout?


its wierd haha, first one for me, but I wanted to see my gpu block and being on the left side puts it closer to my lg c1, would be nice to use that from time to time without needing a fiber optic hdmi cable.

just wish I got a fatter rad for bottom, but I was originally going with fractal design define 7 in white. I have it in my closet and really wanna do a build with that.

fractal really has the best build quality. lian li's panels arent the greatest quality, especially the back panel, really warped, and the clips they use really suck, always pop out and break

but for rad space and airflow its great


----------



## Sir Beregond

strong island 1 said:


> ya the 2 5/16" was just perfect to go all the way thru, but you could just order a blade that size for yours. But that was the reason I picked that model, also came with an extra belt and 2 motor brushes, not a bad deal for $60.
> 
> wish I would have spent more time on my bends but I started trying to build this when gpus were hard to get, so between waiting for gpu and then deciding to go direct die and waiting for that from taiwan, and switching parts so many times, and being so busy with work, I just wanted to get done finally and enjoy the build, been months of just staring at parts.
> 
> i got the qd-oled monitor and im so anxious to test it.


Wasn't sure if it took a bigger blade or not. I didn't think it could. Guess I need to RTFM.


----------



## Shawnb99

strong island 1 said:


> its wierd haha, first one for me, but I wanted to see my gpu block and being on the left side puts it closer to my lg c1, would be nice to use that from time to time without needing a fiber optic hdmi cable.
> 
> just wish I got a fatter rad for bottom, but I was originally going with fractal design define 7 in white. I have it in my closet and really wanna do a build with that.
> 
> fractal really has the best build quality. lian li's panels arent the greatest quality, especially the back panel, really warped, and the clips they use really suck, always pop out and break
> 
> but for rad space and airflow its great


Yeah they do take some getting used to. Can be confusing when you're looking for something and it's opposite 

Be aware the pump is backwards. IE For you Left is Inlet and Right is Outlet


----------



## strong island 1

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah they do take some getting used to. Can be confusing when you're looking for something and it's opposite
> 
> Be aware the pump is backwards. IE For you Left is Inlet and Right is Outlet


ya the post codes got me a little confused upside down haha, because I had some trouble, thought my gpu was dead, for some reason some asus z690 boards on very first post wont work with display port cables, was so sad. but I switched to hdmi cable and installed windows, updated bios and switched back to display port and everything is fine.


----------



## vf-

Marty Z said:


> For the small ones i went half way around the 180. The 90 was too big


The small one I had an issue with, it was two S shapes right next to each other on a 90. It was heating up the whole section deforming it. If I had a jig shaped for it. I could have got away with it. So had to use two S shaped fittings for that part.


----------



## strong island 1

i have such bad ocd and now I wanna redo all my tubes haha, probably gonna regret it because its working great.

does anyone think with 3 rads its worth tearing the tubes down to put a rad in between the gpu and cpu, its already filled. Gonna make the tubing look a little messy and add more right angles.

I know everyone says order doesnt matter but I took the time to go direct die and 3 rads, I feel like any difference might be worth it.

I think im just sad its done haha, i wanna do more.

I wish I could go back in the thread and see my old builds from years ago especially the sth10, was probably horrible, its amazing how we grow over time.

Specs -

z690 apex
3080 ti strix oc with phanteks block
12900k delidded, direct die block
6400mhz cl32 ddr5 32gb trident z5
asus thor 1200w psu
9 noctua chromax fans
2 corsair xr5, 1 ek pe 360's
corsair acryllic tubing
2 - 2gb 980 pro nvme on board and 1 970 evo plus in dimm.2 2gb

not a single rgb led haha, feels good, got sick of it last build


----------



## vf-

Why more right angles/90s. From what I see you already have 9?

I do love the fact you've went matte black pipes. I've also went full matte black hardline.


----------



## dwolvin

strong island 1 said:


> i have such bad ocd and now I wanna redo all my tubes haha, probably gonna regret it because its working great.
> 
> does anyone think with 3 rads its worth tearing the tubes down to put a rad in between the gpu and cpu, its already filled. Gonna make the tubing look a little messy and add more right angles.
> 
> I know everyone says order doesnt matter but I took the time to go direct die and 3 rads, I feel like any difference might be worth it.
> 
> I think im just sad its done haha, i wanna do more.
> 
> I wish I could go back in the thread and see my old builds from years ago especially the sth10, was probably horrible, its amazing how we grow over time.
> 
> Specs -
> 
> z690 apex
> 3080 ti strix oc with phanteks block
> 12900k delidded, direct die block
> 6400mhz cl32 ddr5 32gb trident z5
> asus thor 1200w psu
> 9 noctua chromax fans
> 2 corsair xr5, 1 ek pe 360's
> corsair acryllic tubing
> 2 - 2gb 980 pro nvme on board and 1 970 evo plus in dimm.2 2gb
> 
> not a single rgb led haha, feels good, got sick of it last build


Great looking build! And it's not going to make a difference on the loop order unless you have terrible flow- and you dont.


----------



## Nizzen

No dimm watercooling with Apex and dimm.2, and you know it's going to be slow hot memory


----------



## strong island 1

vf- said:


> Why more right angles/90s. From what I see you already have 9?
> 
> I do love the fact you've went matte black pipes. I've also went full matte black hardline.


Thanks man, it was fun, took time to get used to acryllic but im glad I used it. I just meant if I tried to reorder the loop without switching around the components, would add a bunch more right angles.



dwolvin said:


> Great looking build! And it's not going to make a difference on the loop order unless you have terrible flow- and you dont.


Ya I think I will just leave it, my last build was the same way and never had trouble. ek's pump res combo is so nicely decoupled I just run at 100%, dont hear anything, so flow should be good.



Nizzen said:


> No dimm watercooling with Apex and dimm.2, and you know it's going to be slow hot memory


haha ya, I might remove the dimm.2, I guess my 970 evo plus is dying, I kept getting the error at bios screen saying drive failure immenent, its about 4 years old from my old build, but surprised, never had a samsung drive fail on me. the 4tb of 980 pro nvme storage is plenty for me, more than I ever had. the most I ever had was 2 tb

im so glad I have access to the memory, dimm.2 and even the top nvme slot.


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> Great looking build! And it's not going to make a difference on the loop order unless you have terrible flow- and you dont.


How can you say that? I don't see a flow meter anywhere, nor do I see any temp sensors for the water. What I do see is a 90 degree on the outlet of the pump, that alone will likely kill 20% of the flow rate if not more.
If I had to guess they are barely above 0.3gpm


----------



## strong island 1

Shawnb99 said:


> How can you say that? I don't see a flow meter anywhere, nor do I see any temp sensors for the water. What I do see is a 90 degree on the outlet of the pump, that alone will likely kill 20% of the flow rate if not more.
> If I had to guess they are barely above 0.3gpm


I do have a temp sensor on the backside of the pump. With the way this pump mounts I really had no choice unless I wanted to put it backwards right in the front window with the big ugly ek bracket and all you would see is the bracket in the window.

But I run the pump at 100 percent. I originally had 3 corsair xr5 rads but they are so restrictive I switched one out for the ek pe.

my flow seems fine, the fluid in the res is moving fast

my ambient temp is 23c and my fluid temp sensor says 25 in hwinfo and bios. But this is just me working right now, nothing under load really.


----------



## Shawnb99

strong island 1 said:


> I do have a temp sensor on the backside of the pump. With the way this pump mounts I really had no choice unless I wanted to put it backwards right in the front window with the big ugly ek bracket and all you would see is the bracket in the window.
> 
> But I run the pump at 100 percent. I originally had 3 corsair xr5 rads but they are so restrictive I switched one out for the ek pe.
> 
> my flow seems fine, the fluid in the res is moving fast
> 
> my ambient temp is 23c and my fluid temp sensor says 25 in hwinfo and bios. But this is just me working right now, nothing under load really.
> View attachment 2562847
> View attachment 2562848



If you're happy with it that's all that matters. Besides I don't think you could fit a second pump anyways. Still a flow meter is always a good idea. Placement of the temp sensor shouldn't matter


----------



## strong island 1

Shawnb99 said:


> If you're happy with it that's all that matters. Besides I don't think you could fit a second pump anyways. Still a flow meter is always a good idea. Placement of the temp sensor shouldn't matter


Well I appreciate the info either way. You gave me something to think about. Gonna start pushing it today, see if I'm happy with it under heavy load.

But after your post now that I look at the pump, idk why I never thought about trying to rotate the pump within the holding bracket so the outlet is facing the rad inlet. Should be possible.

Gonna try that next maintenance. Took me so long, I should enjoy it for a bit.

I can't believe how snappy and powerful everything feels coming from 8086k


----------



## Sir Beregond

Still gotta finish leak testing and will need to fill it up, but here's my latest project. At some point want to get an Aquacomputer flow/temp meter. This ones just sort of a stop gap for now since the Aquacomputer has been unobtanium around here.


----------



## ssgwright

Sir Beregond said:


> Still gotta finish leak testing and will need to fill it up, but here's my latest project. At some point want to get an Aquacomputer flow/temp meter. This ones just sort of a stop gap for now since the Aquacomputer has been unobtanium around here.
> 
> View attachment 2563107


some epic bends there, very nice!


----------



## Sir Beregond

ssgwright said:


> some epic bends there, very nice!


Thanks!

Had a bit of a hiccup with the Mod Water coolant I had. Suffice to say, MMM are sending me new bottles, but in the meantime I picked up some Mayhems XT-1 clear and filled it up. I also switched the bottom rad fans around to intake. Will see how that goes. Also realized the impeller on my flow meter was backwards to what my path was, so had to switch that around. Got that back up and running and refilled last night. Flow looking good at 80% on the D5.


----------



## Barefooter

Sir Beregond said:


> Still gotta finish leak testing and will need to fill it up, but here's my latest project. At some point want to get an Aquacomputer flow/temp meter. This ones just sort of a stop gap for now since the Aquacomputer has been unobtanium around here.
> 
> View attachment 2563107


Yes nice job on the bends! Especially the res to CPU block... four bends.

Love the gold fittings


----------



## Sir Beregond

Barefooter said:


> Yes nice job on the bends! Especially the res to CPU block... four bends.
> 
> Love the gold fittings


Thanks, it took me 4 different tries to get that run right. I also toyed with some options with 45 degree bends instead but didn't like them.

Thank you very much! Been on a white/black/gold theme kick the past couple of years.


----------



## Barefooter

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks, it took me 4 different tries to get that run right. I also toyed with some options with 45 degree bends instead but didn't like them.
> 
> Thank you very much! Been on a white/black/gold theme kick the past couple of years.


I was going to ask you how many attempts it took you to get it right. Figured it was more than one!


----------



## vf-

Finished it last night. So glad I ditched the distro plate. Popping out sections is going to be so much easier for maintenance.

Highest core was 69C on Cinebench at 5Ghz. Water hovers around 24 idle, 33 - 35C load. Fans on the Nemesis 800rpm constant with other 6 fans on the PE and XE from 600 - 700 idle and 1000 to 1200rpm on load. Gaming 55 - 65c depending on which game with GPU 45C. 4 thermal sensors around the loop. I'm amazed how accurate Aqua Computer's sensors are to each other. One going out of the GPU line and into the Nemesis GTS, one going out of the CPU and into the PE. One built into the pump and the High Flow Next going into the GPU. With flow rate 212.8l/h.


----------



## dwolvin

Really nice! And I agree, Distro plates are generally only cool when they are custom or actually line up with how your build is going to be.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Yeah my big problem with distro plates is if they take up space where fans can go instead.


----------



## vf-

dwolvin said:


> Really nice! And I agree, Distro plates are generally only cool when they are custom or actually line up with how your build is going to be.


Getting into it was more the issue. You had to pull everything out to get to it except the motherboard. Then put it in the same way for everything to sit behind it when it was in the regular 011D. Then the time it takes to clean that thing. 64 allen keys I think it was just to get the back off.

Plus I love the fact the Ultitube is glass so no air bubbles sticking to it like acrylic. Distro plates are bubble magnets and bad for water line markings. Then when the bubbles do disappear, you see lots of air bubble markings. It starts to look ugly fast.

I loved the distro plates at first. Now I despise them.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Ultitube looks great. Probably will be my next reservoir, next time I need to buy one.


----------



## Wolfsbora

I haven't posted in here in many years. This is the last watercooled build I did. The project started in 2014. To show hold it is, those are 2 EVGA 780 Ti GPUs. A very satisfying build. I completely modified a Corsair Obsidian 550D. A case dedicated to silence. Well...I threw that out the window. That's an 80mm rad on the right. Took a lot of cutting to get that thing to fit. I added the window and LEDs. The Aquacomputer fan and pump controller was priceless and worked better than anything else on the market. The reservoir was the EKWB that had 2 DDC pumps attached and fit in the 5.25" drive bay. Really cool tech. Everything was EKWB except I had the Rocket (can't remember the name) fittings hand made from Australia. The build got cleaned up and the drive bays were hidden and the red PSU cables were sleeved. Hand sleeved all of the cables. Not sure where those pics went. I miss this community, I'm going to finally build another watercooled setup. This time dedicated to video editing.


----------



## airplaneman

Some nice builds in this thread!

Here is my latest in an 011D mini. No hard tubing or fancy LED blocks, but I like it.
10900k & 6900xt with EK blocks
2x alphacool 360 both intake
Octo controls the fans & pump
Water delta about 3-4c idle, 8-10c load

edit: added new photo


----------



## dwolvin

Love the splash of color! Does Up North spell it colour?


----------



## airplaneman

dwolvin said:


> Love the splash of color! Does Up North spell it colour?


Thank you! And yes we do haha


----------



## D-EJ915

Wolfsbora said:


> I haven't posted in here in many years. This is the last watercooled build I did. The project started in 2014. To show hold it is, those are 2 EVGA 780 Ti GPUs. A very satisfying build. I completely modified a Corsair Obsidian 550D. A case dedicated to silence. Well...I threw that out the window. That's an 80mm rad on the right. Took a lot of cutting to get that thing to fit. I added the window and LEDs. The Aquacomputer fan and pump controller was priceless and worked better than anything else on the market. The reservoir was the EKWB that had 2 DDC pumps attached and fit in the 5.25" drive bay. Really cool tech. Everything was EKWB except I had the Rocket (can't remember the name) fittings hand made from Australia. The build got cleaned up and the drive bays were hidden and the red PSU cables were sleeved. Hand sleeved all of the cables. Not sure where those pics went. I miss this community, I'm going to finally build another watercooled setup. This time dedicated to video editing.
> View attachment 2564151


I've always liked the look of that cpu block, I've got 2 of the "X99" variant still laying around. Much cleaner and solid look than stuff these days.


----------



## absolyst

http://imgur.com/a/Q1utpOE


Finally finished my first watercooled build the other day. Pretty satisfied with how it turned out.

Components:
Ryzen 5900x
RTX 3080 XC3 Ultra
MSI MAG x570 Tomahawk 
Corsair Vengeance 32 GB
EVGA Supernova 850 GM
Lian Li O11D Mini
Lian Li Uni fans up top + Noctua for rads & exhaust

Watercooling stuff:
HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis 360 & 240 rads
EK stuff: Quantum Velocity (CPU), Quantum Vector2: ABP set w/active backplate (GPU), FLT 120 res + pump combo
Aquacomputer OCTO + Farbwerk 360 for fan / RGB control

Would have gotten an ITX board if I had known how much harder an ATX would make the building process, but oh well, live and learn. Keeping everything at low RPM for noise and the case doesn't have the best airflow, so temps aren't the best either, but I have vastly more headroom than with my old build so I'm happy with it. The coil whine on the 3080 is the only thing I'm not happy about; hoping more months of use will "break in" the GPU and make it go away. But if not, I use headphones anyway so it's not that big a deal lol.


----------



## D13mass

4 days before war started moved to new case Lian Li Air Mini, switched mobo, changed waterblock, changed "water", bought liquid with propylene glycol for boiler fluid, changed fans Arctic ==> Noctua NF-A12x25...

No RGB, nothing beautiful, just mature very quiet performance system, can not now buy anything (we don`t have any import due too war), so think it could be last my build. 


























Spoiler: offensive content warning


----------



## arduum

*D13mass*
We are trying to resist them together with you! 🤝


----------



## vf-

What's the Aqua Computer blocks like? I love how some of them have the built in water temperature display.


----------



## dwolvin

Love the build, Hate what you are going through, Good Void!.

Seriously, I hope you are to the west and 'safe'. And that Russia falls soon.


----------



## Fluxmaven

These Optimus blocks have been sitting on the shelf for almost a year. I finally installed them last week since I had a 3 day weekend. The performance is insane. I feel like an idiot for putting it off so long. I was mostly nervous about damaging the GPU and not being able to secure a replacement. Now that you can easily find 3090's in stock (and for nearly a grand less than what I paid for this one) it wasn't as daunting. Before I pulled it out of my PC I ran Timespy extreme a couple times to warm up the stock thermal putty and it came apart relatively easy.


----------



## dwolvin

Love the build, I feel the jimmies getting rustled as we speak...

And yeah, I know a 3080 is the best bang for the buck, but now that FE are getting easy to find I'm tempted to get a ti or maybe a 3090...


----------



## Fluxmaven

Yea I didn't build it to impress anyone. Just wanted something other than the typical cookie cutter O11D build. 

Was originally aiming for a 3080 but this was the first GPU I got in a newegg shuffle after about 60 attempts. I've since moved to an LG OLED as my main display so having the extra VRAM is nice for 4K.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice. I would rather get an FE card because it will make my rig easier to loop, but I'm starting to think I'll have to get at least a 3080ti or higher... 

BTW, what's the case?


----------



## Fluxmaven

I like how compact the FE PCBs are. That's what I would look for if I were upgrading my SFF rig. 
The case is an LD cooling PC-V7. 


Spoiler: Some old pics


----------



## polyh3dron

Finished my watercooling build a few weeks ago, this is my 3rd.


















Lian Li O11D XL Case
Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero Motherboard
Ryzen 5950X CPU w/ EK Quantum Magnitude RGB Block
Nvidia Geforce RTX 3090 Founders Edition GPU w/ EK Quantum Vector FE Block & matching Active Backplate
G.Skill F4-3600C14Q-64GTZN 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3600 RAM - CL14-15-15-35
EK O11D Side Distro Plate w/ DDC 3.2 Pump
Alphacool Inline Temperature Sensor - placed after the GPU in the loop... maybe this is why my loop temp is reading high?
EK-Loop 16mm Acrylic Tubing
EK Cryofuel Solid Scarlet Red
EK Quantum Torque Black Nickel Fittings
Lian Li UNIFAN SL120 Fans
EK Coolstream PE 360 Radiators on top and bottom
Sabrent Internal USB 3.0 Hub to allow for all O11D XL front panel ports to be connected to the Dark Hero's single USB 3.0 header
Be Quiet! Dark Power Pro 1200W PSU
Cablemod Custom Power Cables for GPU, 24-Pin, and EPS connections
Sabrent Rocket 4.0 2TB M.2 SSDs x2
Samsung 870 Evo SATA SSDs x2
WD Ultrastar 14TB HDD
WD Black 6TB HDD

Vertically mounted cards behind my GPU, all on risers:

Focusrite Dante PCIe R 256-Channel audio-over-ethernet Card
Blackmagic Mini Monitor Video output card for full screen feed from video editing apps and Pro Tools
Pro Tools HD Native Interface card

And here are my temps while relatively idle (CPU has PBO active and XMP is active, no other OCing yet):


----------



## D13mass

dwolvin said:


> I hope you are to the west and 'safe'.





Spoiler



I exactly in most hottest city, but we got used, we live in COD in real life.

*It was Saturday*









*Sunday *(school was destroyed in my district)





*Today 4 AM*





*Also today during the day:*
https://imgur.com/a/Nyo6zmR 

And I visited a few villages which were released by Ukrainian army from russian Z-Nazi and you know what I found on one place which Nazi used as ammunition depot - videocard radeon 7850, stolen, did not have time to take home... 

https://imgur.com/a/1qBO7sN 


I stopped flooding, sorry. 🤜🤛


----------



## Fluxmaven

Finally decided to use this beautiful Heatkiller 3.0 block I've had sitting new in the box for quite a while.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Fluxmaven said:


> Finally decided to use this beautiful Heatkiller 3.0 block I've had sitting new in the box for quite a while.
> View attachment 2566667


I like the block also, but I wish they would update the mounting hardware and get rid of those tall as springs.


----------



## Fluxmaven

InfoSeeker said:


> I like the block also, but I wish they would update the mounting hardware and get rid of those tall as springs.


Yea the mounting situation is very dated... Thinking about stealing the mounting hardware off one of my other blocks


----------



## opheen

O11Mini Air (built for performance)
Motherboard: Msi Pro z690-A DDR4
CPU: i7 12700KF
CPU Block: Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro
GPU: Gigabyte AORUS Xtreme RTX3080 10GB WF WB
RAM: TeamGroup T-Create 3200Mhz cl14 2x16 DR
RAM: Modules EK Monark x 2
RAM: Block: XSPC
PSU: SilverStone SX1000 Platinum
Flow\temp: Barrow v4 Flow.
Radiators: 1x240mm Black Ice Nemesis LS240. 3x240mm XSPC TX240. 1x120mm Magicool.
Pump: Barrow DDC Pump house with Xylem 24w DDC
Tank: Barrow
Fans: Lian Li and ArcticP12's + 80mm BQ.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! Why the different 240 rads?


----------



## opheen

dwolvin said:


> Nice! Why the different 240 rads?


Because I had all lying from previous ITX buildings, the update will come later with "shortened 360mm rads" to shorten 2 EK - Coolstram Classic360mm from 392mm to 387mm so that I can fit one at the bottom and one at the top.


----------



## dwolvin

Is that pulling the covers off the endcaps of those rads? I always wondered how much space the shrouds took up...


----------



## opheen

dwolvin said:


> Is that pulling the covers off the endcaps of those rads? I always wondered how much space the shrouds took up...


Pulling the cap of on the side with in and outlets


----------



## storm-chaser

Since everyone is posting heatkiller water blocks...


----------



## opheen

storm-chaser said:


> Since everyone is posting heatkiller water blocks...


One of the best CPU blocks IMO! With the weight of 450Gram you rly get the feeling of quality


----------



## vf-

What's the Heatkiller CPU blocks performance like compared to EK's Velocity? I'm honestly itching for a new block if it knocks off 3 - 5C.


----------



## opheen

vf- said:


> What's the Heatkiller CPU blocks performance like compared to EK's Velocity? I'm honestly itching for a new block if it knocks off 3 - 5C.


I changed from EK Quantum Velocity to Heatkiller after a week, the EK block i have cant handle the heat and spikes my 12700kf delivered . 

EK Velocity certainly has better versions than the one I have, so possibly some of those with Acetal \ full nickel \ copper are better, but I think 3-5c you can count on!


----------



## vf-

It's the acetal/full nickel of that block I'm using. Which ranges 55 - 61C on a 10900K at 5Ghz all cores. If Heatkiller gave me 50 - 55C at most. That would be something. Imagine it was 40 - 45C without a MoRa.

I was originally tempted to get the Magnitude last October but for its price, they said you'd only gain 1C cooler which I thought was a waste for the price.


----------



## storm-chaser

vf- said:


> It's the acetal/full nickel of that block I'm using. Which ranges 55 - 61C on a 10900K at 5Ghz all cores. If Heatkiller gave me 50 - 55C at most. That would be something. Imagine it was 40 - 45C without a MoRa.
> 
> I was originally tempted to get the Magnitude last October but for its price, they said you'd only gain 1C cooler which I thought was a waste for the price.


Heatkillers are great but they can be pretty restrictive. I'd recommend having at minimum two pumps in your custom loop. That means, one pushing one pulling through the water block for best results. When used with liquid metal it's a pretty good combination to keep temps as low as possible. I have the full copper heatkiller IV and so far I'm pretty happy with it.


----------



## opheen

storm-chaser said:


> Heatkillers are great but they can be pretty restrictive. I'd recommend having at minimum two pumps in your custom loop. That means, one pushing one pulling through the water block for best results. When used with liquid metal it's a pretty good combination to keep temps as low as possible. I have the full copper heatkiller IV and so far I'm pretty happy with it.
> [/QUOT


Heatkiller IV PRO is not as restrictive as the model before .. , this is my 8th Heatkiller block. how much does the "EK Velocity Acetal weigh ? the heatkiller absorbs heat pretty well with its massive construction.


----------



## storm-chaser

opheen said:


> Heatkiller IV PRO is not as restrictive as the model before .. , this is my 8th Heatkiller block. how much does the "EK Velocity Acetal weigh ? the heatkiller absorbs heat pretty well with its massive construction.


Yeah I guess for all intents and purposes I've had no real problems with flow through the heatkiller IV either, perhaps I am going too far. I just recommend the two pumps because then you are getting a little extra help through the most restrictive part in your loop. And the water jets in the block are relatively fine cut, which will make the pumps work a bit harder to maintain good flow. So it cant hurt to do that. Are you running liquid metal?

Interesting to note most water blocks are within a few degrees of each other, but that can make or break your OC in some cases.

I picked up this 1151 water block for $14.99 on amazon for curiosity's sake. I had to make some modifications, but it bolted up to my motherboard pretty easily. As for temps and performance, it would generally run about the same as my heatkiller IV at idle and light load, and then under full load or gaming the temps would slowly creep up 5-6* past where the heat killer would equalize. I was able to boot with it at 5.6GHz ambient, however it would crash half way through the CPUz benchmark. That wouldn't happen with the heat killer.


----------



## vf-

opheen said:


> Heatkiller IV PRO is not as restrictive as the model before .. , this is my 8th Heatkiller block. how much does the "EK Velocity Acetal weigh ? the heatkiller absorbs heat pretty well with its massive construction.


It's not that heavy. Not at all. I don't see any mention of the weight. EK-Quantum Velocity - Nickel + Acetal

Not much to it. Cleaning O-Rings & Rads of Algae Growth. Mayhems...

I'm wondering for a future alteration to my loop, get a second D5 Next with the acetal top ULTITOP D5 Pumpenadapter für D5-Pumpen, G1/4 and incorporate it into the loop along with the Heatkiller block. As I'm running 3 radiators, one Hardwarelabs Nemesis GTS 360. Flowrate at the moment is 212l/h to 227l/h.


----------



## Luggage

Luggage said:


> Step 1. 3800X, X570 GPC, Alphacool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 2. Phobya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 3. 5800X, X570 Unify, RTX 2070, TechN AM4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 4.
> 
> Forgot pictures of new Heatkiller Tube DDC 3.2
> 
> Step 5. Current iteration, external Supernova
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware AMD Ryzen 7 5800X @ 4798.88 MHz - CPU-Z VALIDATOR





http://imgur.com/a/lxLlPxl


Latest iteration:
Rebuilt loop with 2 D5 pumps and made it possible to bypass the internal rads, removed all 90ies from everything except the internal rads.
(Have some other post there I added the AC next flow and ram block… somewhere)
Also repadded and repasted the 2080ti -and with the change in tube orientation had to add a GPU support 🍸.
And since the IHS was stained beyond recognition from LM it was time to lapp it.
Over all lost some flow rate but noise normalized I gained a lot of flow rate.

(might splice in an in-line DDC again with just an on/off 12V for benching)


----------



## vf-

What's the USB thing zip tied to the hose? You could have removed those 90s with 45s.


----------



## Luggage

vf- said:


> What's the USB thing zip tied to the hose? You could have removed those 90s with 45s.











Amazon.com: TEMPerHUM PC Sensor PC USB Hygrometer and Thermometer-Golden Blue : Electronics


Buy TEMPerHUM PC Sensor PC USB Hygrometer and Thermometer-Golden Blue: Network Adapters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





Temp and humidity sensor that I thought I could integrate with aquacomputer software in case water temp got to close to dew point since I have the rad outside. Didn't work out but never became a problem either since winter was mild and humidity dropped more than temperature.
So I gave up on automating it and just check a couple of Govee on my phone instead.








Govee Wi-Fi Thermo-Hygrometer


Monitor humidity and temp levels in your greenhouse, incubators, or wine cellar wirelessly and get highly accurate readings accessed on the Govee home app.




eu.govee.com













Govee Bluetooth Hygrometer Thermometer H5075


Model: H5075 Monitor the temperature and humidity of any indoor space using the Govee Hygrometer Thermometer. Stay on track of your temperature and humidity data at any time. Smart Features High Accuracy Upgraded Display Smart App Alerts Free Data Storage




eu.govee.com





45 would perhaps have worked but I had 90ies over… the one behind the pumpres probably had to be a 90 anyway, had to put some padding between.


----------



## opheen

storm-chaser said:


> Yeah I guess for all intents and purposes I've had no real problems with flow through the heatkiller IV either, perhaps I am going too far. I just recommend the two pumps because then you are getting a little extra help through the most restrictive part in your loop. And the water jets in the block are relatively fine cut, which will make the pumps work a bit harder to maintain good flow. So it cant hurt to do that. Are you running liquid metal?
> 
> Interesting to note most water blocks are within a few degrees of each other, but that can make or break your OC in some cases.
> 
> I picked up this 1151 water block for $14.99 on amazon for curiosity's sake. I had to make some modifications, but it bolted up to my motherboard pretty easily. As for temps and performance, it would generally run about the same as my heatkiller IV at idle and light load, and then under full load or gaming the temps would slowly creep up 5-6* past where the heat killer would equalize. I was able to boot with it at 5.6GHz ambient, however it would crash half way through the CPUz benchmark. That wouldn't happen with the heat killer.


I tried with Liquid metal just be 100% sure that delidd was the right thing to go for on my cpu, since i have 14c difference between the hotest and coldest core.


----------



## opheen

storm-chaser said:


> Yeah I guess for all intents and purposes I've had no real problems with flow through the heatkiller IV either, perhaps I am going too far. I just recommend the two pumps because then you are getting a little extra help through the most restrictive part in your loop. And the water jets in the block are relatively fine cut, which will make the pumps work a bit harder to maintain good flow. So it cant hurt to do that. Are you running liquid metal?
> 
> Interesting to note most water blocks are within a few degrees of each other, but that can make or break your OC in some cases.
> 
> I picked up this 1151 water block for $14.99 on amazon for curiosity's sake. I had to make some modifications, but it bolted up to my motherboard pretty easily. As for temps and performance, it would generally run about the same as my heatkiller IV at idle and light load, and then under full load or gaming the temps would slowly creep up 5-6* past where the heat killer would equalize. I was able to boot with it at 5.6GHz ambient, however it would crash half way through the CPUz benchmark. That wouldn't happen with the heat killer.


4L\min and up make no difference on my cpu now, mby it does when its delidded ? 1.5L\min-4L\min is about 1-2c when i run CinebenchR23 10min run. 
I have tried too confirm on my setup


----------



## Luggage

opheen said:


> 4L\min and up make no difference on my cpu now, mby it does when its delidded ? 1.5L\min-4L\min is about 1-2c when i run CinebenchR23 10min run.
> I have tried too confirm on my setup
> View attachment 2566942


The barrow and bykski flow meters are very… “optimistic” about flow.









Barrowch FBFT03 vs. Thermaltake Pacific TF1 and Aqua Computer High Flow Review - Flow Sensors for Custom-Loop Water Cooling with Two Total Failures | Page 2


The title already says everything we will find in the article today. Having recently presented in the article "Aqua Computer Flow Meter "High-Flow" in the laboratory test – What can a flow meter for…




www.igorslab.de













Aqua Computer high flow NEXT Review - Much more than just an accurate flow meter. Only it can’t speak yet. | Page 3 | igor'sLAB


With the Aqua Computer high flow NEXT, the Swiss Army Knife for custom loops with lots of functions and accuracy has been available since this year for just under 70 Euros. Does anyone remember the…




www.igorslab.de


----------



## opheen

Luggage said:


> The barrow and bykski flow meters are very… “optimistic” about flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barrowch FBFT03 vs. Thermaltake Pacific TF1 and Aqua Computer High Flow Review - Flow Sensors for Custom-Loop Water Cooling with Two Total Failures | Page 2
> 
> 
> The title already says everything we will find in the article today. Having recently presented in the article "Aqua Computer Flow Meter "High-Flow" in the laboratory test – What can a flow meter for…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.igorslab.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aqua Computer high flow NEXT Review - Much more than just an accurate flow meter. Only it can’t speak yet. | Page 3 | igor'sLAB
> 
> 
> With the Aqua Computer high flow NEXT, the Swiss Army Knife for custom loops with lots of functions and accuracy has been available since this year for just under 70 Euros. Does anyone remember the…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.igorslab.de


i tested the pump with flowmeter, pumped water from a can over to a bucket to see how much the flowmeter was off, and it pumped 7L in 60sec \ flowmeter show 7.28\7.4 L\min


----------



## SuperMumrik

opheen said:


> i tested the pump with flowmeter, pumped water from a can over to a bucket to see how much the flowmeter was off, and it pumped 7L in 60sec \ flowmeter show 7.28\7.4 L\min


Isn't that extremely low flow for an unrestricted pump? My aquacomputer software with 3xd5 reads 150 lph'ish with mora, cpu, ram and gpu

Edit: brainfart in the heat! You're at liters pr minutes ofc 😂


----------



## opheen

SuperMumrik said:


> Isn't that extremely low flow for an unrestricted pump? My aquacomputer software with 3xd5 reads 150 lph'ish with mora, cpu, ram and gpu


I drove at full speed without returning and then the pump pulled a lot of air since I had no return. pump only from A to B , to see if the flowmeter was totally wild or how much it was of. with lower speed the pump was able to do it without sucking in air.


----------



## vf-

SuperMumrik said:


> Isn't that extremely low flow for an unrestricted pump? My aquacomputer software with 3xd5 reads 150 lph'ish with mora, cpu, ram and gpu
> 
> Edit: brainfart in the heat! You're at liters pr minutes ofc 😂


You're at 2.5 Litre per minute. I wouldn't mind 7.28 L/m. That's 420 Litre per hour. That is 1.53 gal/m. 🤣


----------



## storm-chaser

opheen said:


> 4L\min and up make no difference on my cpu now, mby it does when its delidded ? 1.5L\min-4L\min is about 1-2c when i run CinebenchR23 10min run.
> I have tried too confirm on my setup
> View attachment 2566942


Looks like you can get rid of that 90* fitting quite easily. closer to the pump they are the more than likely to cause impedance in your flow rate.


----------



## opheen

storm-chaser said:


> Looks like you can get rid of that 90* fitting quite easily. closer to the pump they are the more than likely to cause impedance in your flow rate.


Picture was from when i tested with 2 pump, i run with only 1 pump now : )


----------



## storm-chaser

opheen said:


> Picture was from when i tested with 2 pump, i run with only 1 pump now : )


Oh no! a downgrade is never good! lol I'm sure you had good reasons since it looks like top notch rig otherwise


----------



## opheen

storm-chaser said:


> Oh no! a downgrade is never good! lol I'm sure you had good reasons since it looks like top notch rig otherwise


After some testing, I found that there was no need for 2 pumps as My Xylem DDC pump holds 3.5\4L\min at 55% and that is good enough for the PC as it is now, I also plan to build a NR200p to with 5800x3D and since I have the CPU block\radiator\tubes\fittings lying around, it is fine to use the one DDC pump there.


----------



## storm-chaser

opheen said:


> I also plan to build a NR200p to with 5800x3D


How do you like this processor so far? Does it live up to it's namesake? 

Assuming with the extra cache on top of the die it must run slightly warmer than its cousins? Or is that a non factor?


----------



## opheen

storm-chaser said:


> How do you like this processor so far? Does it live up to it's namesake?
> 
> Assuming with the extra cache on top of the die it must run slightly warmer than its cousins? Or is that a non factor?


Haven't bought yet but plan to, Really want Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Impact x570 M-dtx but Asus ROG Strix B550-I Gaming M-itx, ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax M-itx, MSI MPG B550I Gaming Edge WiF M-itx is half the price and will probably perform just as well in terms of memory overclocking and general performance,
I have a NR200p with 3800x and ASRock B550M-Itx/ac that i want to upgrade\rebuild with the 5800x3D and a better motherboard.


----------



## opheen

This is my NR200p with intel
CPU: i9 11900KF With Heatkiller IV
Motherboard: Gigabyte z590i Vision D
RAM: 2x16gb DR G.Skill Trident Z Royale Elite 14-14-14-34 [email protected] = 14-15-15-28 [email protected] 1,57v G1 CR2T (The memory Fan is removed so it looks good on the picture)
GPU: Asus Strix RTX3090 OC EK Vector Block
PSU SilverStone SX1000 Platinum
2 x 240mm Rads XSPC 20.5mm thick
1 x 80mm Rad 45mm thick
EK Kinetic DDC pump\res





















Picture from when i tried out 3x240mm XSPC but it was worse than 2x240mm due to bad airflow even with some of the Noctua's change out for some Arctic P12's to make it work, but 2x240mm rads and Noctua 15x120mm was better.


































Changed to this case now 












My NR200p with AMD
CPU: 3800x with EK Velocity Block
Motherboard: ASRock B550M-Itx/ac
RAM: 2x16gb DR G.Skill Rip J 17-18-18-38 [email protected] = 14-15-14-28 [email protected] G1 CR1T (Picture is from when i tried my Royale Elite on it)
GPU: EVGA FTW3 Ultra RTX3080 10gb with Bykski Block
PSU CoolerMaster v850 sfx
Barrow Pump\res DDC 17w
2x120mm Magicool 30mm thick (The reason why you see all those blue 120mm Rads in my builds is that i bougth 5 of them for 100$ look ugly as **** but they cool water🤷‍♂️
1x80mm 45mm thick


----------



## Bravo Six

Here is a recent build of mine.

CPU: 12900K with Heatkiller IV block
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3090 with Alphacool block
Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus Z690
Pump/res: Aquacomputer D5
Top rad: Heatkiller RAD 360-L
Bottom rad: Hardware Labs GTS 360
Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic
Fans: Noctua A12x25

When comes maintenance time I plan on replacing the clear tubing (Mayhems) by Tygon norprene or Heatkiller EPDM. I am fairly disappointed by Mayhems tubing, as you can see the older (reused) tube on the right shows some clear discoloration/clouding relative to the fresh run from the CPU to the top rad. I also found out that a (new) Barrow drain valve I ordered does not completely close and leaks when the pump is on. From now on I will only use Bitspower valves.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Bravo Six said:


> Here is a recent build of mine.
> 
> CPU: 12900K with Heatkiller IV block
> GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3090 with Alphacool block
> Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus Z690
> Pump/res: Aquacomputer D5
> Top rad: Heatkiller RAD 360-L
> Bottom rad: Hardware Labs GTS 360
> Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic
> Fans: Noctua A12x25
> 
> When comes maintenance time I plan on replacing the clear tubing (Mayhems) by Tygon norprene or Heatkiller EPDM. I am fairly disappointed by Mayhems tubing, as you can see the older (reused) tube on the right shows some clear discoloration/clouding relative to the fresh run from the CPU to the top rad. I also found out that a (new) Barrow drain valve I ordered does not completely close and leaks when the pump is on. From now on I will only use Bitspower valves.
> 
> View attachment 2567655


Eventually all clear tubing will cloud. But great choice switching to norprene or EPDM.


----------



## J7SC

...saw this on YT...there are distro plates, and then there are distro plates...


----------



## Nizzen

J7SC said:


> ...saw this on YT...there are distro plates, and then there are distro plates...


And aircooled dimms 😆


----------



## opheen

Nizzen said:


> And aircooled dimms 😆


I was thinkin the exact same 😅


----------



## TeslaHUN

RGB is a must on a RAM ,if you can find tasty RGB block for it, then sure go for WC. If not , sotck rgb cooler is waaay better looking.


----------



## InfoSeeker

TeslaHUN said:


> RGB is a must on a RAM ,if you can find tasty RGB block for it, then sure go for WC. If not , sotck rgb cooler is waaay better looking.


I hope it is OK to disagree... just because one can does not mean one should.


----------



## Nizzen

TeslaHUN said:


> RGB is a must on a RAM ,if you can find tasty RGB block for it, then sure go for WC. If not , sotck rgb cooler is waaay better looking.


Allways watercool memory for gaming! Most gaming performance gain is in tuning memory (cpu bound games).

My oppinion


----------



## mouacyk

J7SC said:


> ...saw this on YT...there are distro plates, and then there are distro plates...


Made a distro plate for a distro plate and turned it into a wall


----------



## InfoSeeker

Nizzen said:


> Allways watercool memory for gaming! Most gaming performance gain is in tuning memory (cpu bound games).
> 
> My oppinion


My comment was aimed at "RGB is a *must* on a RAM ". I see so many builds with all possible RGB options flashing that it appears as light pollution. I do not mean to infer RGB is bad, just that it needs to be orchestrated, just as good music is.


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> My comment was aimed at "RGB is a *must* on a RAM ". I see so many builds with all possible RGB options flashing that it appears as light pollution. I do not mean to infer RGB is bad, just that it needs to be orchestrated, just as good music is.


Infer away. RGB is evil and needs to die a painful death, I only wish that it be quick so the rest of us don't have to suffer anymore. The only place RGB has any place is on a keyboard and that's only cause I like it in the dark and I need to see the keys as I stab away at them. 

Everything else should be unicorn puke free.


----------



## dwolvin

I like RGB because it give you a chance to match lighting to your build, but I do admit that most looks gulf states levels of tacky.


----------



## Sir Beregond

My problem with RGB is I turn it all off, and sometimes I reboot and some of it comes back on again. Frustrating.


----------



## dwolvin

That's bad, my MSI sometimes forgets that I selected a single color but usually corrects by the time I'm at the desktop.\


----------



## Shawnb99

Plus it can also mean more cables. Routing cables so my build looks clean is 75% of my time. I couldn't even imagine it if I went RGB crazy.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, I wish more MB's sent the RGB signal on the same input as the pwm. Like a PC CanBus...


----------



## TeslaHUN

InfoSeeker said:


> My comment was aimed at "RGB is a *must* on a RAM ". I see so many builds with all possible RGB options flashing that it appears as light pollution. I do not mean to infer RGB is bad, just that it needs to be orchestrated, just as good music is.


That build is literally on the wall to showcase everything, its built for max visual experience, so yes RGB is a must.


----------



## Sir Beregond

TeslaHUN said:


> That build is literally on the wall to showcase everything, its built for max visual experience, so yes RGB is a must.


Hey if that's you're thing, not going to knock it.

I'm just pissy that half the time you either have to download kludgy software or OpenRGB just to turn it off if you don't want it. For other pieces, its just cable clutter I don't want. But can't escape it much. As for OpenRGB, avoids the kludgy crap out there, however I often find it doesn't save settings for one of my DIMMS between reboots. I don't want the rainbow puke. Thank you.

I was happy to see my Dark Hero motherboard allowed me to turn off all the board RGB in the BIOS at least.


----------



## Fluxmaven

I like how the EVGA DARK series motherboards were originally pure performance with no extra BS... The z590 DARK I bought recently has the most RGB headers of any board I own lol 🌈🦄

I don't mind some RGB... Just wouldn't want to go all out with it. Mainly because of the extra cables to manage.


----------



## vf-

dwolvin said:


> I like RGB because it give you a chance to match lighting to your build, but I do admit that most looks gulf states levels of tacky.


That is true. They love the Blackpool illuminations look to it.

I love the kind of mood lighting to it. Like car dashboards. Enough light to see but not over the top.


----------



## dwolvin

Got ahold of a 3080 12gb Hydrocopper when the prices dropped, and had time to slap it in the 'Hodge Podge'. Folding output (and Control / Cyberpunk) jumped up a bunch, and I'm enjoying the silly loop. One 45 Deg, Two 90's between the radiators. Sorry for the potato pic, bright window behind me.


----------



## matique

12900k delidded 5.3p w/ Optimus Sig V2
Kingston Fury Beast 7000c30 w/ XTIA ram jacket
MSI Z690i Unify 
Nvidia 3090 FE w/ EKWB Full Metal block 
Gigabyte 2TB Gen4 drive x2
Corsair 2TB MP510 
Corsair SF750 
Dual HWL GTS 280 w/ 140mm BeQuiet Silent Wing 4 Pro 
Aquacomputer Aqualis reservoir + EKWB DDC 3.2 pump
Custom MDPC 17AWG cables 
Custom PCIE bracket, with 2 pairs of Koolance QD3
EKWB torque fittings, Optimus hardline fittings
Bitspower 14mm Chrome Brass tubes
Aquacomputer Quadro

MORA 420 w/ 4x Noctua A20 Chromax High Speed
Aquacomputer Next Flow 
Aquacomputer D5 Next


----------



## vf-

Black and chrome is the best look.


----------



## Avacado

matique said:


> 12900k delidded 5.3p w/ Optimus Sig V2
> Kingston Fury Beast 7000c30 w/ XTIA ram jacket
> MSI Z690i Unify
> Nvidia 3090 FE w/ EKWB Full Metal block
> Gigabyte 2TB Gen4 drive x2
> Corsair 2TB MP510
> Corsair SF750
> Dual HWL GTS 280 w/ 140mm BeQuiet Silent Wing 4 Pro
> Aquacomputer Aqualis reservoir + EKWB DDC 3.2 pump
> Custom MDPC 17AWG cables
> Custom PCIE bracket, with 2 pairs of Koolance QD3
> EKWB torque fittings, Optimus hardline fittings
> Bitspower 14mm Chrome Brass tubes
> Aquacomputer Quadro
> 
> MORA 420 w/ 4x Noctua A20 Chromax High Speed
> Aquacomputer Next Flow
> Aquacomputer D5 Next


Show off  

Good to see you here.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Fluxmaven said:


> I like how the EVGA DARK series motherboards were originally pure performance with no extra BS... The z590 DARK I bought recently has the most RGB headers of any board I own lol 🌈🦄
> 
> I don't mind some RGB... Just wouldn't want to go all out with it. Mainly because of the extra cables to manage.


Found another reason. Now that I have an OLED display with a glossy panel, having the desktop on top of my desk next to it, man that RGB would be no bueno for reflecting into the screen.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Sir Beregond said:


> Found another reason. Now that I have an OLED display with a glossy panel, having the desktop on top of my desk next to it, man that RGB would be no bueno for reflecting into the screen.


I've been using my OLED for close to a year now and random reflections throughout the room typically don't bother me. the only thing I had to relocate was a neon sign that was on the wall right behind me that did get annoying. Eventually I'll tidy up the office and post some pics of the whole setup.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Azza Pyramid case:

undercarriage

with case cover


----------



## J7SC

Sir Beregond said:


> Found another reason. Now that I have an OLED display with a glossy panel, having the desktop on top of my desk next to it, man that RGB would be no bueno for reflecting into the screen.


Plenty of RGB + C1 glossy OLED (monitor on the right) living in perfect harmony...RGB is fine as long as it is electric blue 😄


----------



## vf-

I'm a little intrigued by the view up there looking like a god looking down on everyone. Must be nice all lit up at night?


----------



## J7SC

vf- said:


> I'm a little intrigued by the view up there looking like a god looking down on everyone. Must be nice all lit up at night?


...favorite time is sunrise during the winter months. Anyhow, pic was meant to show two large corner windows w/o impacting glossy OLED in-between.


----------



## dwolvin

Window behind you would be worse for glare (ask me how I know  ), but great setup and great view!


----------



## vf-

storm-chaser said:


> Heatkillers are great but they can be pretty restrictive. I'd recommend having at minimum two pumps in your custom loop. That means, one pushing one pulling through the water block for best results. When used with liquid metal it's a pretty good combination to keep temps as low as possible. I have the full copper heatkiller IV and so far I'm pretty happy with it.





opheen said:


> Heatkiller IV PRO is not as restrictive as the model before .. , this is my 8th Heatkiller block. how much does the "EK Velocity Acetal weigh ? the heatkiller absorbs heat pretty well with its massive construction.


I actually gained in flow rate. Bleeding the system at the moment. Got rid of the last and only 90 degree fitting. Went from 212l/h with EK Velocity to 256l/h with the Heatkiller IV Pro. Will cable it up tomorrow. I'm not sure which part I gained with or if it was because of it all. 24 hour citric acid soaks on the radiators, though I don't see how losing one 90 degree fitting jumps it up.


----------



## Sir Beregond

storm-chaser said:


> Heatkillers are great but they can be pretty restrictive. I'd recommend having at minimum two pumps in your custom loop. That means, one pushing one pulling through the water block for best results. When used with liquid metal it's a pretty good combination to keep temps as low as possible. I have the full copper heatkiller IV and so far I'm pretty happy with it.


I don't know. Testing shows they aren't the most restrictive. That would be the Optimus blocks. I don't remember, did you get any performance gain after drilling your jetplate on your HK IV?









Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review


Perhaps the most requested CPU water block review in years, we finally take a look at Optimus Water Cooling's Foundation CPU block. With a near-rabid user base touting praises galore, we put it to the test to see if the hype and asking price is justified.




www.techpowerup.com


----------



## vf-

Sir Beregond said:


> I don't know. Testing shows they aren't the most restrictive. That would be the Optimus blocks. I don't remember, did you get any performance gain after drilling your jetplate on your HK IV?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review
> 
> 
> Perhaps the most requested CPU water block review in years, we finally take a look at Optimus Water Cooling's Foundation CPU block. With a near-rabid user base touting praises galore, we put it to the test to see if the hype and asking price is justified.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com


Even Dazmode gained a little in flow rate with the Heatkiller IV over the EK Velocity 2. I'm actually amazed how old the Heatkiller IV is and they're better than EK's latest offerings.

I'd love to have over 300l/h with 3 radiators but I think I'd need a second pump to achieve that. Since I'm at 0.93 Gal/m. There's nothing else I can see to optimize. All bends are fast flowing 45 and 90 degree angles. No sharp turns.
Though, the only sharp 90s are the GPU inlet/outlet. If only they could be optimized.


----------



## dwolvin

90 degree angles are sharp turns unless you have the kind with some radius, but they are still much less restrictive than a block or radiator. Still, I'm hoping for something to be a true next generation block. Like hanging with the best here with less restriction.


----------



## storm-chaser

vf- said:


> I actually gained in flow rate. Bleeding the system at the moment. Got rid of the last and only 90 degree fitting. Went from 212l/h with EK Velocity to 256l/h with the Heatkiller IV Pro. Will cable it up tomorrow. I'm not sure which part I gained with or if it was because of it all. 24 hour citric acid soaks on the radiators, though I don't see how losing one 90 degree fitting jumps it up.


Where was the 90* fitting located? As you probably know, the worst spot for that fitting is output on the pump.


----------



## storm-chaser

Sir Beregond said:


> I don't know. Testing shows they aren't the most restrictive. That would be the Optimus blocks. I don't remember, did you get any performance gain after drilling your jetplate on your HK IV?


Temps remained identical (within margins), but flow rates actually increased. However, I do have three pumps (one D5 and two freezemod) so I have a lot of power pushing the water through the loop. Can't say how a single pump custom loop would benefit because it's not going to have the same punch.

I think a better way to look at this is the jet plate. If you look at the heatkiller block, it has ultra fine passages for the coolant to go through. While this is better for cooling, but more restrictive than a block with less fine cut jet passages.

The 9600KF rig has been dismantled, so no further testing can be done until I get a new motherboard and CPU.


----------



## vf-

storm-chaser said:


> Where was the 90* fitting located? As you probably know, the worst spot for that fitting is output on the pump.


Before the inlet of the GPU. 4cm before. Which is about 25cm away from the outlet of the pump.


----------



## vf-

Finished on Monday. With the help of push/pull on the XE, got the fans down to 1100rpm, idle 600rpm, CPU outlet sensor being the warmest of the loop 33C, High flow and pump reporting 31 - 32 during gaming. GPU outlet sensor reporting about the same. .5 of a difference. Currently running the 9 fans bottom and side off the D5 pump and the Nemesis off EC_TEMP. Switch to target temperature for hotter days and leaving it to pump fan curve on cooler days. Cooler days for the room 20 - 21C, warmer days 24 - 27C.

I'm really loving the Heatkiller IV. CPU 51 - 55C gaming, GPU 41 - 42C, hot spot 48C, memory 46C. CPU under Cinebench23 hitting 64 - 67C at 5Ghz all cores. All radiators fans intake.


----------



## storm-chaser

vf- said:


> I'm really loving the Heatkiller IV.


Good to hear it's working out for you. The heatkiller IV is no doubt a very impressive piece, and is still arguably the best water block on the market at this point in time, despite it's age.


----------



## mouacyk

Not mine, but you all need to see this:





Using solder in place of o-rings, man! And silicon-grease to prevent melting solder from filling the channels.


----------



## thx1138

mouacyk said:


> Not mine, but you all need to see this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using solder in place of o-rings, man! And silicon-grease to prevent melting solder from filling the channels.


I love that channel and all his builds are fun to watch. The finished size and temps are pretty impressive and who doesn't like polished copper?


----------



## mouacyk

thx1138 said:


> I love that channel and all his builds are fun to watch. The finished size and temps are pretty impressive and who doesn't like polished copper?


I thought the temps were great too for the slim rad he was using.


----------



## chibi

That was an interesting video to say the least!


----------



## mouacyk

chibi said:


> That was an interesting video to say the least!


For sure. Despite it turning out well, I wonder if the first mobo wasn't killed by a short from the unsecured placement of copper shims. I don't think he ever shared what caused the first board to fail.


----------



## vf-

Imagine gaming on a PS5 that's it's so quiet the button presses is all you hear.


----------



## iamjanco

mouacyk said:


> Not mine, but you all need to see this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using solder in place of o-rings, man! And silicon-grease to prevent melting solder from filling the channels.


Outstanding work/video! I love copper myself...


















































Note: the bands around the DDC pump fans haven't been secured yet (it's a wip).


----------



## ilmazzo

vf- said:


> Finished on Monday. ....


Great build! GG!

Passive VRM on the mobo? Which temps do you get under heavy load?


----------



## vf-

For the VRM alone or the entire system? VRM doesn't go above 48C. 36C idle. Usually the memory that is somewhat the hottest around while gaming 51 - 53C.

Water 31 - 33C under load for a few hours. CPU 51 - 55C gaming, GPU 41 - 42C, hot spot 48C, GPU memory 46C. CPU under Cinebench23 hitting 64 - 67C at 5Ghz all cores. Loop at idle varies from 24 - 27C. Fans idle at 640rpm, load 1140rpm. I'd imagine if I was to run the Vardar fans at full 2200rpm, the water loop would stay around 26 - 28C under load as they push a lot of air but it's so loud. 1100 - 1200 is comfortable. With 4 sensors across the loop. One on the CPU outlet which is the hottest part, 33C. One on the GPU outlet. High Flow before the GPU inlet and the temp sensor in the D5. With alarms set for 40C even though it's acrylic.


----------



## Igorito

Had the pleasure of building this corsair 5000D with a custom loop, and interesting enough I found a workaround that I haven't seen as of yet for managing to get 2 rads on top and at the side with a little trick in getting the correct fittings to get the top holes to work and fit within the space with top radiators. Big thanks to Sc00ter build that inspired to build mine one with some different twist of my own tricks


----------



## chibi

^For anyone building in a 5000D, I highly recommend the Lian Li radiator offset brackets to fit in the top rad. Fits perfectly to offset the ports without having to rig up multiple off angle fittings.


----------



## J7SC

I recently did some maintenance on the dual-mobo build from last summer in the customized TT Core P8...modded the loop setup slightly and reduced the number of D5s from five to four (two per loop). Pics taken with an older camera and through smoked glass panels...bonus: that hides some imperfections  









System 1 (left) - Asus X570 Hero Wifi, 3950X w/Phanteks block, 32GB DDR4 (set to 3800 CL14), AMD 6900XT w/Bykski block, 2x D5s, 1200x62 rads, Seasonic Prime Platinum PX1300W

System 2 (right) - Asus X570 Dark Hero, 5950X w/Phanteks block, 32GB DDR4 (set to 3800 CL14), 3090 Strix w/Phanteks block, 2x D5s, 1320x62 rads, Seasonic Prime Platinum PX1300W


----------



## storm-chaser

What about using off irrigation/hydraulic fittings on a custom loop? I just might have to try this. Fittings should be really easy to adapt to soft tubing. And though I don't know the price of normal check/quick connect fittings for computers, I suspect this is much cheaper as a route.









































Thoughts?


----------



## mxthunder

After 13 years using a Corsair 800D - more than 6 platforms installed in it, finally upgraded to a Meshify 2 XL. really dont like loosing 5.25 because I still use optical from time to time, but it was a huge upgrade. I was able to throw another 480mm rad into it for more headroom for a future 3000 or 4000 series RTX card. Having only a 360 + 120mm in the 800D really limited the TDP headroom I had to work with, although it did rock strong with watercooled 780Ti's for a long time. Pretty smooth build process overall.

Full specs are - Alphacool Nexxos XT45 480mm top rad, XSPC RS360 front rad, aquacomputer ultitop D5 pump/res combo, phanteks GPU block, XPSC raystorm CPU block


----------



## mxthunder

playing around with different color schemes


----------



## Fluxmaven

storm-chaser said:


> What about using off irrigation/hydraulic fittings on a custom loop? I just might have to try this. Fittings should be really easy to adapt to soft tubing. And though I don't know the price of normal check/quick connect fittings for computers, I suspect this is much cheaper as a route.
> 
> View attachment 2570853
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


That's way cheaper. Less than half the price of most "PC" quick disconnects. Koolance makes (in my opinion) the best quick disconnects marketed towards PC liquid cooling and you buy each half separately for ~$15. 

EK actually used to sell CPC Colder quick disconnects without rebranding them. They have their own more expensive version now. 



mxthunder said:


> playing around with different color schemes


Build looks good. Appears to still be rocking Gentle Typhoons. I have a stack of those I'm going to pull out for a sort of throwback build soon.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Just finished this build today, hope you guys like it!


----------



## gtz

Chicken Patty said:


> Just finished this build today, hope you guys like it!
> View attachment 2571674
> 
> View attachment 2571673
> 
> View attachment 2571672


You cant even tell it was your first time using hardline.


----------



## mxthunder

Fluxmaven said:


> Build looks good. Appears to still be rocking Gentle Typhoons. I have a stack of those I'm going to pull out for a sort of throwback build soon.


Thanks!
Yep, I actually went out of my way to find 4 more matching new ones. I did about 20 minutes of research if there was anything better out there in the last 10 years. didnt really seem so, so I invested another $100 into them. I probably have 30-40 of them across all the rigs in my house. Never had one die. At 1000rpm they are quiet enough for me.


----------



## Chicken Patty

gtz said:


> You cant even tell it was your first time using hardline.


Thanks bud! Some things could've been better, can't tell in the pictures. But definitely better than I thought for the first time.


----------



## J7SC

...starting to think about a new build next year & staring at the collage of my last four builds to figure out the potential layout (dual mobo again). The CM Stryker (bottom right) which I had as 'new old stock' was the last 'regular' case I used (a few years back). I will likely go for a custom frame (top left) or a TT Core P again...


----------



## Chicken Patty

J7SC said:


> ...starting to think about a new build next year & staring at the collage of my last four builds to figure out the potential layout (dual mobo again). The CM Stryker (bottom right) which I had as 'new old stock' was the last 'regular' case I used (a few years back). I will likely go for a custom frame (top left) or a TT Core P again...
> View attachment 2571755


If you have the ability still to do a custom case that'll probably be best. Build something around your needs. Stellar builds by the way.


----------



## J7SC

Chicken Patty said:


> If you have the ability still to do a custom case that'll probably be best. Build something around your needs. Stellar builds by the way.


Thanks. I've been thinking about a '4x2' wall-mounted complete-custom-fabbed monstrosity, but the advantage of open cases such as TT Core P series is that they are easily modded into almost anything (never mind good airflow) but also come with all the tempered glass and stand-offs, little peripherals and mounting/drilling 'templates'; ideal scaffolding.


----------



## Chicken Patty

J7SC said:


> Thanks. I've been thinking about a '4x2' wall-mounted complete-custom-fabbed monstrosity, but the advantage of open cases such as TT Core P series is that they are easily modded into almost anything (never mind good airflow) but also come with all the tempered glass and stand-offs, little peripherals and mounting/drilling 'templates'; ideal scaffolding.


Was just checking them out and it is indeed really bad ass. Kinda makes me regret I didn't consider them more for my build. Some pricey options, but really cool cases with endless possibilities.


----------



## J7SC

Chicken Patty said:


> Was just checking them out and it is indeed really bad ass. Kinda makes me regret I didn't consider them more for my build. Some pricey options, but really cool cases with endless possibilities.


...you got a great build above for sure, but there's always the next project lurking in one's mind 

...fyi, I got the TT Core P5 ('open box' at local retailer) for the equivalent of ~ US$ 90 and the Core P8 (new) for ~ US$ 200. Very versatile 'cases' even in variable stock configs, but even better as a platform for extensive modding, ie. w/Dremel tool etc.


----------



## Chicken Patty

J7SC said:


> ...you got a great build above for sure, but there's always the next project lurking in one's mind
> 
> ...fyi, I got the TT Core P5 ('open box' at local retailer) for the equivalent of ~ US$ 90 and the Core P8 (new) for ~ US$ 200. Very versatile 'cases' even in variable stock configs, but even better as a platform for extensive modding, ie. w/Dremel tool etc.


Oh yes, there always is that next project. Sometimes it's not even a whole new build, I just switch up cases just because. I hate this hobby sometimes.... well, not me, my bank account does hehe.


----------



## J7SC

Chicken Patty said:


> Oh yes, there always is that next project. Sometimes it's not even a whole new build, I just switch up cases just because. I hate this hobby sometimes.... well, not me, my bank account does hehe.


...I actually like upgrading current / old hardware with a new look 'case' (did a few legacy builds not too long ago w/ X79/99). The basics for my projects - apart from the skeleton / scaffolding case(s) referenced above, is my trusty Dremel tool, a good drill & tap set and peripherals set. I also posted before about steel straps / hangers (ie. Dahl below)...it is ideal to make all kinds of bits out of it, such as PSU cages, pump holders, custom GPU mounting accessories etc....soft enough metal to work with, sturdy enough to hold its shape...Dremel metal cutting wheel makes short order of cutting it to size. When finished, one can use paint or tape to cover exposed sections...


----------



## Chicken Patty

J7SC said:


> ...I actually like upgrading current / old hardware with a new look 'case' (did a few legacy builds not too long ago w/ X79/99). The basics for my projects - apart from the skeleton / scaffolding case(s) referenced above, is my trusty Dremel tool, a good drill & tap set and peripherals set. I also posted before about steel straps / hangers (ie. Dahl below)...it is ideal to make all kinds of bits out of it, such as PSU cages, pump holders, custom GPU mounting accessories etc....soft enough metal to work with, sturdy enough to hold its shape...Dremel metal cutting wheel makes short order of cutting it to size. When finished, one can use paint or tape to cover exposed sections...
> View attachment 2571830
> 
> View attachment 2571831


You are far more handy than I am haha. But it's something I do want to get more familiar with. Endless opportunities once you do. By the way, got some pics of the X79/99 builds? One of my favorite platforms man!


----------



## J7SC

Chicken Patty said:


> You are far more handy than I am haha. But it's something I do want to get more familiar with. Endless opportunities once you do. By the way, got some pics of the X79/99 builds? One of my favorite platforms man!


...being handy = disaster #1 + disaster #2 + disaster #3 > > mistakes learned...

...don't have too many good pics of the rebuilds, but below is a collage of X99, X79 (mostly E-WS boards) and one Z170 rebuilds. Among others, I still had (have) several Antec 302 cases; Dremel was good to mod the interior for eATX, and side panel cutout for extra airflow as I'm a fan of fans for VRM and RAM (see what I did there?)


----------



## Chicken Patty

J7SC said:


> ...being handy = disaster #1 + disaster #2 + disaster #3 > > mistakes learned...
> 
> ...don't have too many good pics of the rebuilds, but below is a collage of X99, X79 (mostly E-WS boards) and one Z170 rebuilds. Among others, I still had (have) several Antec 302 cases; Dremel was good to mod the interior for eATX, and side panel cutout for extra airflow as I'm a fan of fans for VRM and RAM (see what I did there?)
> View attachment 2571883


Love the job on the side panel man. And spittin' some bars there brotha hahaha. Goof stuff. 

I wanna say it was an EVGA X99 Dark is what I had? Solid board, miss those times.


----------



## tiggerlator

Just finished putting the EK quantum Vector Trio water block and matching EK backplate on my 3080 today. Fitted some corsair sleeved cables, and fitted a AQ OCTO for fan control and for inputting the AQ flow sensor. will get some better pics tomorrow. 
I7 12700k 12/20 cpu
Asus Rog Strix z690-A WiFi D4
TEAM GROUP 32GB (2X16GB) DDR4 3600C16
MSI RTX 3080 Gaming Trio X 10GB
Silicon Power 256GB PCIe M.2 NVMe Gen3x4
WD SN850 1TB PCIe M.2 NVME Gen4x4
WD SN850 1TB PCIe M.2 NVME Gen4x4
SanDisk 2TB SSD PLUS 2.5"
Corsair RM750x 80% gold
Lian Li o11D XL
EK 360mm PE
EK 360mm XE
Heatkiller IV (CPU)
Byski Full cover (GPU)
Aqua computer ultitube 150 D5 pump/res
EK ZMT Black 16/10
3x Corsair LL120mm PE
3x Lian Li SL120mm XE
1x Noctua 120mm
AQ OCTO and AQ flow sensor








Ducky One 2 mini 60% keyboard
Razer Viper
dell s2721dgfa 27" nano IPS 2560x1440p 165hz
dell p2219h 22" 1920x1080p 75hz


----------



## Knight091

Here is my build called Deep Blue. I been out of the water cooling for over 8 years. This is my first hard tube build.

Intel 12900KF
ASUS ROG Strix Z690-G Gaming
CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 32GB DDR5 5600
Super Flower Leadex V Gold PRO 1000W
SABRENT 2TB Rocket 4 Plus NVMe 4.0 Gen4
Crucial BX500 2TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch
EKWB EK-Quantum Velocity 2 water block
EK-Quantum Vector 2 XTreme RTX 3090 block
EK D5 Pump and rez
EK fittings
2 360 radiators
Lian li mini


----------



## Chicken Patty

Looks amazing man!


----------



## vf-

Is that drain valve easy to rotate?


----------



## Knight091

Chicken Patty said:


> Looks amazing man!


Thanks



vf- said:


> Is that drain valve easy to rotate?


Yes it turns easy. The bottom fitting is made to rotate with rings.


----------



## mouacyk

Yeah, this was a good break from the 4090 fiasco


----------



## Knight091

mouacyk said:


> Yeah, this was a good break from the 4090 fiasco


I will take a RTX 4090


----------



## Ovrclck

I'm starting to think of upgrades for when AM5 comes out. My dual MCP35X are loud. Is there anything else better than these in terms of quietness and performance? 

I kept the dual setup from my previous build.


----------



## dwolvin

Generally I understand D5s to be quieter. I know the (Barrow?) cheap one sitting next to me (see the TT P3 thread today) is inaudible.


----------



## tiggerlator

Tried both, D5 is quieter imo


----------



## Ovrclck

Sweet! Thanks guys. I'll look into D5, any particular one I should stray from?


----------



## tiggerlator

Ovrclck said:


> Sweet! Thanks guys. I'll look into D5, any particular one I should stray from?


Most D5 are ok. aquacomputer, EK, etc maybe better to get a Vario though, you can set the speed with a adjuster on the pump. The PWM type is controlled by the motherboard or a controller like a aquacomputer OCTO like i do.


----------



## dwolvin

I prefer PWM myself- you can set to a speed or a curve.


----------



## Ovrclck

tiggerlator said:


> Most D5 are ok. aquacomputer, EK, etc maybe better to get a Vario though, you can set the speed with a adjuster on the pump. The PWM type is controlled by the motherboard or a controller like a aquacomputer OCTO like i do.





dwolvin said:


> I prefer PWM myself- you can set to a speed or a curve.


Right on! Appreciate it.


----------



## Luggage

Ovrclck said:


> I'm starting to think of upgrades for when AM5 comes out. My dual MCP35X are loud. Is there anything else better than these in terms of quietness and performance?
> 
> I kept the dual setup from my previous build.
> View attachment 2573194


Don’t hard mount any pump if you care about noise. And I’ve not tested but I suspect dual pumps might make more noise than two separate pumps. But yea D5 are much quieter than DDC, higher flowing in an open loop but weaker in a constrained loop.


----------



## J7SC

I use up to 4x D5s in a single case (dual loops) and the ones I've used, and still use, since 2013 came with a rubber pad to go underneath the pump metal mounts - no noise or vibration I can tell (loop test mount below, see arrow). CPU and GPU boxes often come with useful hard and soft rubber and foam packaging material that can be used for D5 mounting as well...


----------



## Ovrclck

Luggage said:


> Don’t hard mount any pump if you care about noise. And I’ve not tested but I suspect dual pumps might make more noise than two separate pumps. But yea D5 are much quieter than DDC, higher flowing in an open loop but weaker in a constrained loop.


Appreciate the advice! I'm planning to go dual Aquacomputer D5's. Still undecided on which brass top I want to go with.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Looked at some fans recently (the SW3's are back in place now), as well as playing around with a $90 B-die RAM kit. Snagged an Aquacomputer Highflow NEXT and got that installed. Super nice having that for a data point to feed the Octo for fan curves.


----------



## tiggerlator

Sir Beregond said:


> View attachment 2573339
> 
> 
> Looked at some fans recently (the SW3's are back in place now), as well as playing around with a $90 B-die RAM kit. Snagged an Aquacomputer Highflow NEXT and got that installed. Super nice having that for a data point to feed the Octo for fan curves.


I just fitted a OCTO. using a High FLow sensor, am keeping an eye out for a next though. Love the OCTO, have a connection to my power button from the signal too for emergency power off if the pump goes 0%

Nice loop

Mine- IMG 0273 — Postimages


----------



## Ovrclck

Fan wise, are gentletyphoon ap-15 still the bees knees from years ago? I still have around 20 or so, mix of pwm and non. In my next build, was just wondering if I should go all pwm 2150 or if there is anything better for the price point?


----------



## dwolvin

They are still right up there, and unless you have money burning a hole in your wallet I'd use them until they are done... Everything that I've seen beat them are pretty expensive (and/or I'm cheap).


----------



## Ovrclck

dwolvin said:


> They are still right up there, and unless you have money burning a hole in your wallet I'd use them until they are done... Everything that I've seen beat them are pretty expensive (and/or I'm cheap).


I'd rather use that money else where in the next build. I guess I'm good then.


----------



## J7SC

Ovrclck said:


> I'd rather use that money else where in the next build. I guess I'm good then.


...I've bought various fans over the years, but the GentleTyphoon 3000 rpm (below) remain my favourite to cool dual or triple core rads. I have twelve of them from almost a decade ago and they seem indestructible - and much quieter at 3k rpm than many modern fans at 2k - 2.5k rpm.

That said, for my latest tandem build, I decided to go with the Arctic P12 pwm pst in push+pull (second pic)...two of those cool about as well as one of the GentleTyphoons, but are quieter / inaudible. In case you change your mind, the 5-pack Arctic P12s are a steal compared to other fancy fans yet I have close to fifty in use w/o any issue whatsoever, and I also don't hear them at their max ~1800 rpm. On the other hand, if you don't mind 'the sound' of the GentleTyphoons you already have, you might as well save yourself some $s...


----------



## vf-

Sir Beregond said:


> View attachment 2573339
> 
> 
> Looked at some fans recently (the SW3's are back in place now), as well as playing around with a $90 B-die RAM kit. Snagged an Aquacomputer Highflow NEXT and got that installed. Super nice having that for a data point to feed the Octo for fan curves.


Thought you said RGB be gone?  Though I must admit, it is nice having the option to turn it on or off. As I find it's not a distraction shutting all the lights off.

Nice build. Love those white pipes. What's the flow rate reporting? and any difference in the temperature accuracy?


----------



## Sir Beregond

vf- said:


> Thought you said RGB be gone?  Though I must admit, it is nice having the option to turn it on or off. As I find it's not a distraction shutting all the lights off.
> 
> Nice build. Love those white pipes. What's the flow rate reporting? and any difference in the temperature accuracy?


The RGB is gone again  . I was taking a look at those fans for another site.

Flow rate right now is about 190 lph. I think my original flow meter over-reported flow, so yeah this feels more accurate and consistent. Of course, flow gets a bit faster as the loop takes on load/heat and it will cross over into 200ish lph. I occasionally have seen it start around 180 as well when I first boot up, so I would say typically in that 180-190 range, up to 200ish when under load.

Yes, much better temperature accuracy, and its great that because I have an Octo, I created fan curves based off coolant temp sensor as read from the Highflow NEXT in Aquasuite. Great pairing.


----------



## dwolvin

FWIW; I second P12/P14 being amazing fans. About as good as GT's (or withing margin of error) and so reasonably priced!


----------



## Knight091

tiggerlator said:


> Tried both, D5 is quieter imo


Ya it is quiet and a tank for a pump. I had one last 8 years with zero issues.


----------



## mxthunder

Sir Beregond said:


> View attachment 2573339
> 
> 
> Looked at some fans recently (the SW3's are back in place now), as well as playing around with a $90 B-die RAM kit. Snagged an Aquacomputer Highflow NEXT and got that installed. Super nice having that for a data point to feed the Octo for fan curves.



Nice loop! I just ordered that same block for my 3080Ti FE. Not sure I like that huge gap between the back plate and the block on the short rear side of the card.


----------



## Ovrclck

I've habituated to the sound of the GT's, but those P12's are cheap enough to warrant a try!


----------



## Luggage

J7SC said:


> ...I've bought various fans over the years, but the GentleTyphoon 3000 rpm (below) remain my favourite to cool dual or triple core rads. I have twelve of them from almost a decade ago and they seem indestructible - and much quieter at 3k rpm than many modern fans at 2k - 2.5k rpm.
> 
> That said, for my latest tandem build, I decided to go with the Arctic P12 pwm pst in push+pull (second pic)...two of those cool about as well as one of the GentleTyphoons, but are quieter / inaudible. In case you change your mind, the 5-pack Arctic P12s are a steal compared to other fancy fans yet I have close to fifty in use w/o any issue whatsoever, and I also don't hear them at their max ~1800 rpm. On the other hand, if you don't mind 'the sound' of the GentleTyphoons you already have, you might as well save yourself some $s...
> View attachment 2573385
> 
> 
> View attachment 2573388


And here I'm reluctant to turn my nine p14 up over 800rpm - outside my closed window - because they make too much noise at 1600rpm


----------



## J7SC

Luggage said:


> And here I'm reluctant to turn my nine p14 up over 800rpm - outside my closed window - because they make too much noise at 1600rpm


...you want noise ? Try the Sunon server fans on the right...don't use them anymore, coz:


----------



## dwolvin

At work there is still one rack using Deltas... Shudder. But you can tell when the unit gets a workload from the other room!

(edited because I can't spell)


----------



## Sir Beregond

mxthunder said:


> Nice loop! I just ordered that same block for my 3080Ti FE. Not sure I like that huge gap between the back plate and the block on the short rear side of the card.


Yeah this block took a while to install too compared to some others I have used in the past. But otherwise, so far have been happy with it.


----------



## mxthunder

Fooling around with my DSLR. Im out of practice. I was a bit dissapointed with the focus, even using a tri pod. Will try again once I get the block for my 3080Ti


----------



## mxthunder




----------



## Sir Beregond

mxthunder said:


> Fooling around with my DSLR. Im out of practice. I was a bit dissapointed with the focus, even using a tri pod. Will try again once I get the block for my 3080Ti
> View attachment 2573769
> 
> View attachment 2573768


Is that an original Raystorm? I used to have one, but got damaged. Was a good block for the money.


----------



## mxthunder

Yes AFAIK its the original model. Upgraded it from a Rasa block back in ~2016. 
Is there any advantage to getting a newer version of the Raystorm? I was tempted to update it given how cheap they are. Not even worth taking mine apart to clean it. Holds my 5100 all core 10900k at low 80's regardless of what stress test I throw at it.


----------



## Sir Beregond

mxthunder said:


> Yes AFAIK its the original model. Upgraded it from a Rasa block back in ~2016.
> Is there any advantage to getting a newer version of the Raystorm? I was tempted to update it given how cheap they are. Not even worth taking mine apart to clean it. Holds my 5100 all core 10900k at low 80's regardless of what stress test I throw at it.


What's the newest Raystorm, the Edge? My guess is probably better for more modern multi-core CPUs now that we are past the quad core era. I don't know about the newest Raystorm, but I do remember the Raystorm Pro being a pretty solid improvement over the original and a good performer for the money. If they'e improved on that further, should be a good block.









XSPC Raystorm Pro Review - ExtremeRigs.net


XSPC Raystorm Pro Review thermal testing performance vs EK Supremacy Alphacool Bitspower Summit Swiftech Apogee XL MX EVO Koolance CPU-380 HK4 Watercool




www.xtremerigs.net


----------



## mxthunder

Ill have to consider that once I pay off all my recent upgrades. Its probably overdue.


----------



## Crosslhs82

Hi Everyone 
NEW to custom loop cooling.
I was going to do a gpu loop only on my Evga rtx 2080 ti ftw3 ultra but it morphed into a full loop by the time it was done.


















The rest of the specs.
Alphacool 360x30 top
Alphacool NexXxos XT45 420 front
Alphacool NexXxos Ut60 280 botton in push / pull
Alphacool Es Flow meter temp sensor
Ek Kinetics Tbe 300 D5 
Corsair Xc7 pro on a Ryzen 9 5900x
And on the 2080 ti is a
Ek Quantum Vector Nickle Plexi w-blk 
Noctua IPPC's 3000rpm 3x120's running 1475rpm and 8x1140's running 1550rpm except for the rear exhaust which is 750-800 rpm.
In a Thermaltake Core X71


----------



## dwolvin

Very nice- that much rad area should keep it nice and cool!


----------



## Crosslhs82

It's definitely running good for a 5900x 
@67.75c on a cb r23 run which scored 22870.
I was just gaming seeing 5.075ghz on 2 cores with the 2080ti running 38c @2115mhz
Ambient temp 22c , coolant temp 29-30c


----------



## Hiddenath

Crosslhs82 said:


> Hi Everyone
> NEW to custom loop cooling.
> I was going to do a gpu loop only on my Evga rtx 2080 ti ftw3 ultra but it morphed into a full loop by the time it was done.
> 
> View attachment 2574084
> 
> View attachment 2574083
> 
> 
> The rest of the specs.
> Alphacool 360x30 top
> Alphacool NexXxos XT45 420 front
> Alphacool NexXxos Ut60 280 botton in push / pull
> Alphacool Es Flow meter temp sensor
> Ek Kinetics Tbe 300 D5
> Corsair Xc7 pro on a Ryzen 9 5900x
> And on the 2080 ti is a
> Ek Quantum Vector Nickle Plexi w-blk
> Noctua IPPC's 3000rpm 3x120's running 1475rpm and 8x1140's running 1550rpm except for the rear exhaust which is 750-800 rpm.
> In a Thermaltake Core X71


It's beautiful, I advise you to add this controller, it can control the power of the pump and fans, depending on the temperature. This manufacturer has many interesting solutions for water cooling, leakage protection, pressure measurement, and liquid flow rate. aquaero 6 LT USB Fan-Controller not advertising, just a good controller





aquaero 6 LT USB Fan-Controller


aquaero 6 LT USB Fan-Controller: Schon seit dem Verkaufsstart im Jahr 2004 steht der Name "aquaero" für die absolute Oberklasse unter den Lüftersteuerungen. Die neueste Generation, das aquaero 6, legt die Messlatte noch einmal deutlich höher: Die wichtigste Neuerung gegenüber dem aquaero 5 sind...




shop.aquacomputer.de


----------



## Crosslhs82

Hey 
Thanks I will keep that in mind.
I have the pump, the Alphacool Es Flowmeter / Temp Sensor connected to the Cosair Commander Core Xt along with the 3x120's fans.
The 7x 140's fans is on a thermaltake 10 port sata powered fan hub connected to the cpu header.
What's strange is I had it connected to the Commander Core and was not getting a rpm signal so the fans ran full blast but when connected to the mobo I got signal.

As far as rgb goes in the picture the Xc7 pro wasn't hooked up but is now.

If I run the Asus Armoury Crate it can control the Ek pump and Quantum Vector wb lighting but throws 1 hell of a wrench into Ghost Recon Wildlands making it unplayable, 
removing the software fixes the game, so just letting it do as it wants.

Here's some pics from my old case before when I had the corsair Xd5 pump.

































Those are from when the Xd5 pump, and the 420 was mounted outside of a Thermaltake f31 Suppressor case.

I changed the case so i could mount all inside along with the new pump when the Corsair Xd5 was only giving me 125-130 Lph flow rate at 4800rpm it's max. With the Ek pump I now get 230 easily at 4000 rpm.

Have A Great Week!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## mxthunder

Got the new block installed on my 3080Ti. always satisfying to see that 35*C temp drop and have silence.


----------



## mxthunder




----------



## RobertoSampaio

Hi... I need some help...
I would like to build a custom water cooler with a very nice CPU block, but I would like a sealed system... Is it possible? I thought of the heatkiller block and a 420 radiator (3x140fan)... A good pump (I need a tip) and a reservoir that allows the case to be rotated 90° without leaking...

Could you help me?


----------



## dwolvin

Sealed is a relative term. Custom loops are closed, but you will need to add (Ha!) water/coolant once in a while. But thicker walled Tygon will barely need water ever.


----------



## Avacado

dwolvin said:


> but you will need to ass water


It's going to make the sig for a bit...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got a question. If I was to install my PC in a drawer and have a rad (say a 420 or so) underneath said drawer with the rad ports and pump at the lowest point and some Koolance QDT4's in line. How well would a single D5 at half speed handle that? It'd have to pump basically straight up and be going through maybe 2m tubing total, I know the QDT4's will restrict the flow.

Crappy pic to give a rough idea of what I'm thinking



Spoiler: crappy pic















My reason for doing this is simple, then case size no longer matters and I can have a monster rad if I wish. And seeing how power hungry most stuff is now a days it's not a bad idea lol.


----------



## dwolvin

As long as you don't have very restricted blocks you should be fine- might need to put the pump on a higher speed or a temp curve...


----------



## J7SC

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Got a question. If I was to install my PC in a drawer and have a rad (say a 420 or so) underneath said drawer with the rad ports and pump at the lowest point and some Koolance QDT4's in line. How well would a single D5 at half speed handle that? It'd have to pump basically straight up and be going through maybe 2m tubing total, I know the QDT4's will restrict the flow.
> 
> Crappy pic to give a rough idea of what I'm thinking
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: crappy pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2574864
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My reason for doing this is simple, then case size no longer matters and I can have a monster rad if I wish. And seeing how power hungry most stuff is now a days it's not a bad idea lol.


It should work (I've done something similar years back) but I would recommend 2x D5 in series for a variety of technical reasons...that recommendation is not specific to your planned layout, btw.


----------



## Ketku-

Hello to all enthusiasts. Few questions 

#1: I mainly started to ask what kind of Fan Curves you have adjusted your machine with?
#2: What has been the "allowed" maximum water temperature for you?
#3: Do you want silence or power from your Custom Loop?


I adjust the Argus Monitor myself according to the water temperature. I myself have a surprisingly efficient Custom Loop (2x XE480 + 2x XE360) + EK TBE 200. I have kept a similar "allowed" 35-37c water temperature with the fans running at 40% (EK Vardars 120) . Of course, if I put the revs at 50-60%, the sound is significantly more, but so is the power, the water temperature then settles at 32c. Loop cools RAM G.Skill CL32 6400, GPU 3080ti, CPU 12900K. 

EDIT: Mine ambient is 22-23c and the Water Temps are recorded when i gaming (400w+ GPU and 80-100w+ CPU).


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

dwolvin said:


> As long as you don't have very restricted blocks you should be fine- might need to put the pump on a higher speed or a temp curve...


Cool thanks. Figured I might have to put it on a higher speed.



J7SC said:


> It should work (I've done something similar years back) but I would recommend 2x D5 in series for a variety of technical reasons...that recommendation is not specific to your planned layout, btw.


Wont the QDT4 quick disconnects cause flow restrictions anyway regardless of how many pumps are used?

I'm probably going to do individual loops for CPU & GPU tbh so a D5 & 420 rad for each. I like the "AIO style" approach, so much easier than a full loop with everything in it, granted usually more expensive but nothing wrong with a little overkill .

Edit, Has anyone used the Barrow SPG40A-X? It's a D5 res combo unit thingy. Says the D5 is 18w instead of the 23w of most of the others.

Edit 2, would a cross flow rad be a better choice instead of a regular one? Only just remembered cross flow exist lol.


----------



## energie80

Hello everyone, this is my new loop. As you can see the flow goes into the gpu first then into the cpu the 360rad on top followed by the 240rad on the side.
I’m thinking of moving the 360 direction this way: gpu 360rad, cpu 240 rad then pump.
Is it worth changing this?

thanks


----------



## dwolvin

My general rule of thumb is; whatever ends up with the shortest, smoothest tube runs. Radiator placement will not matter as long as you have decent flow, and a D5 should have no problem at all with 2x Rad, 2x block. But, cool build, love that case!


----------



## energie80

Was going to add a 120mm rad on the back panel
Thanks 🙏


----------



## vf-

Is the Hyte smaller than the regular 011-D? Watching Jay's video from 6 months ago on this case, it looked very nice but not keen on the way you're limited with the PCI slots. You're forced into vertical mount.


----------



## tiggerlator

just put a thermal grizzly Der8auer contact frame on my 12700k and vertical mount, with a PCIe 4 cable. The frame has dropped my idle temp by 7c, not tried load yet but am impressed so far. When i took the block off initially the contact was awful, looked like a hourglass. Put the frame on pasted it then put the block on, took it off again and the contact was perfectly flat. I have put it back on with thermal grizzly paste. 
















I need to rejig the pipe from the GPU out to the CPU in, any suggestions are welcome, it is a little awkward. I will test load temps later when the loop has settled.


----------



## dwolvin

You might consider looping the longer way (https://www.overclock.net/threads/thermaltake-core-p3-owners-club.1605221/post-29034647), It would keep the flow / bend gentler. But that's a big aesthetic choice...


----------



## tiggerlator

dwolvin said:


> You might consider looping the longer way (Thermaltake Core P3 Owner's Club), It would keep the flow / bend gentler. But that's a big aesthetic choice...


It was fine with the card flat, forgot it would be much closer with it upright. I will have to put my thinking cap on and figure out a way to make it neater. At least the Lian Li PCIe 4 cable is working at PCIe 4. The mount came with a PCIe 3 one, but i bought the Lian Li one seperate for £60. The mount is a Phanteks

EDIT- I think I might drain it, and put the pie going across the front around the back of the GPU, will post a new pic later.


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough, I very much understand. If you look at my current setup (the one I linked), you can see the pump and video input don't line up- but with my old 1080ti it was a 2 inch straight run of beauty. Watercooling is certainly full of 'make it work' and compromise!


----------



## tiggerlator

moved the pipe so it's behind the GPU block and moved the cables too


----------



## dwolvin

Whoa- huge improvement!


----------



## tiggerlator

dwolvin said:


> Whoa- huge improvement!


Thanks
Just need to work out the bent pipe. ordered a 90' fitting, will see what i can do tomorrow. also got a multi top coming for my Aqua ultitube res. Gonna have a fill port on the top, and the pipe from the top rad straight into the top of the res.


----------



## storm-chaser

First time going caseless!
Ratchet straps for the win.
9600KF @ 5.4GHz
(waiting for colder weather to go higher  )


----------



## dwolvin

Sir you have outdone me in the jank department. I tip my hat.


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Sir you have outdone me in the jank department. I tip my hat.


Do you like the great wall of radiator? lol you never know when you will need ratchet straps.

In this case, I also used a ratchet strap for securing the PSU to the bench.


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Sir you have outdone me in the jank department. I tip my hat.


And the wiring still needs to be cleaned up, but I am really liking this. Much easier to work on than an enclosed computer in a case.


----------



## dwolvin

As a (currently former) motorcycle rider, ratchet straps are near and dear. If you say my earlier link, I'm in a TT P3 case, and love it. It's small so I have to plan ahead (and the whole TT never gets any more of my money), but I would need one heck of an amazing case to switch right now.

Oh- the great wall of Rads is 600~ish, correct? I have 2x 420, but the fan in the middle inside position is feeble...


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Oh- the great wall of Rads is 600~ish, correct? I have 2x 420, but the fan in the middle inside position is feeble...


Yes, about 600mm. Having a weird problem with the RAM. Keeps crashing whenever I enable XMP or even if I do a manual tune on the memory. As soon as I go above the stock 2133MHz, the system OC settings fail and I have to start from scratch again. very odd, never seen this type of behavior before.


----------



## dwolvin

That is weird, but I guess it happens. As soon as I enable OC on my tomahawk it immediately gets mad. But I got it cheap and it's rock solid otherwise, so whatever...


----------



## J7SC

storm-chaser said:


> And the wiring still needs to be *cleaned up*, but I am really liking this. Much easier to work on than an enclosed computer in a case.


Nice and functional ! FYI, for a future build, you might consider a TT Core P3/5/6/8 - they can be configured as a testbench, wall-mounted, or in a 'normal' orientation while still having 'no issue' with airflow. Below is my TT Core P5 build from December 2018 - obviously, during the layout phase (top and center), it all looks pretty janky as I had the idea to mount rads 'sideways' since there are 5 x 360mm x 60mm rads and 4x D5s to cool over 1100 W peak - otherwise all that wouldn't have fit. Final product (bottom left) is cleaned up. It is what I see every morning as it now graces our m-bedroom, having been replaced by a TT Core P8 build in the home-office.


----------



## tiggerlator

storm-chaser said:


> First time going caseless!
> Ratchet straps for the win.
> 9600KF @ 5.4GHz
> (waiting for colder weather to go higher  )
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2575894
> 
> 
> View attachment 2575896
> 
> 
> View attachment 2575897
> 
> 
> View attachment 2575898
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> 
> View attachment 2575900


I thought in was the middle connection on a HK IV, you have out on the middle.


----------



## storm-chaser

tiggerlator said:


> I thought in was the middle connection on a HK IV, you have out on the middle.


Yup good catch! Not sure what I was thinking... if they just labeled both ports it would make my life easier lol. 
I will flip that around right now. Nice that I can just flip the board upside down and swap it over in just a few minutes. Definitely a perk of building a bench setup like this. If it was in a case this would be a nightmare.


----------



## tiggerlator

storm-chaser said:


> Yup good catch! Not sure what I was thinking... if they just labeled both ports it would make my life easier lol.
> I will flip that around right now. Nice that I can just flip the board upside down and swap it over in just a few minutes. Definitely a perk of building a bench setup like this. If it was in a case this would be a nightmare.
> 
> View attachment 2575930


Took me a couple of looks to catch it, i'm using a HK IV myself though so realised it was the wrong way around. Temps should be better with it flipped shouldn't they.


----------



## storm-chaser

tiggerlator said:


> Took me a couple of looks to catch it, i'm using a HK IV myself though so realised it was the wrong way around. Temps should be better with it flipped shouldn't they.


Already in a quick torture test, it seems the chip is running 10 - 15*F cooler!

Best advice of the day


----------



## tiggerlator

storm-chaser said:


> Already in a quick torture test, it seems the chip is running 10 - 15*F cooler!
> 
> Best advice of the day


My pleasure


----------



## storm-chaser

Can now hold 5.5GHz ambient indoors (for benching at least)


----------



## vf-

tiggerlator said:


> View attachment 2575789
> 
> 
> I need to rejig the pipe from the GPU out to the CPU in, any suggestions are welcome, it is a little awkward. I will test load temps later when the loop has settled.


Should have flipped the Heatkiller. Outlet to top of the block. makes bleeding easier. Then could have went back outlet of GPU to Inlet of CPU with a very small hose.


----------



## tiggerlator

vf- said:


> Should have flipped the Heatkiller. Outlet to top of the block. makes bleeding easier. Then could have went back outlet of GPU to Inlet of CPU with a very small hose.


i tried. it was too tight to do it, and was pushing on the video card. If they where in a line it would have worked, but the CPU inlet is about 2" above the GPU out, and they are not in line.


----------



## storm-chaser

I moved everything outside for cold weather benching. Currently letting the loop and reservoir cool down before I make some frequency attempts. I think with this kind of weather I can probably hit 5.7GHz...

Reservoir is cooling down as well. I think I'll have at least 20 minutes of cool water. That's all I've got for now.


----------



## J7SC

storm-chaser said:


> I moved everything outside for cold weather benching. Currently letting the loop and reservoir cool down before I make some frequency attempts. I think with this kind of weather I can probably hit 5.7GHz...
> 
> Reservoir is cooling down as well. I think I'll have at least 20 minutes of cool water. That's all I've got for now.
> 
> View attachment 2576029
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> View attachment 2576032
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> View attachment 2576047


 ...now link the rads to the barbeque and prep some meats !


----------



## storm-chaser

J7SC said:


> ...now link the rads to the barbeque and prep some meats !


LMAO


----------



## storm-chaser

Okay, I'm going to attempt to find the hard limit on this chip. Back in a little while with results.


----------



## tiggerlator

Little rejig of the loop to tidy it and get rid of the bend from GPU to CPU. Now it goes CPU first then through rad, then GPU. Looks better though? I will get a better pic later with the glass off. I had to make my own RGB strips for the EK GPU block though as the built in strip has failed. In talks with EK about a replacement, have told them i am not sending the full block back though it would be a pita. That bloody bubble in the GPU block is annoying, i'll give it a couple of days, then i will have to tip the heavy case to try and clear it.


----------



## storm-chaser

I did get to 5.7GHz but I had some major issues going on that I had to address last night. The first install of Windows 10, which I did about a week ago, somehow got corrupted and so the machine would lock up every boot.

So last night I re-installed windows 10 and put the memory to non XMP mode. This is the most stable configuration... so long story short something with the memory system on the motherboard is bad. Hence, I cant run the full 4133MHz on the ram.

In any event I did get my 5.7GHz screenshot and I probably could have gone higher. Temps were 30-40*F at idle and under load, about 85-100*F,


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Sir you have outdone me in the jank department. I tip my hat.


It's actually not that at all. It's simply built for function before form. Remember I assembled this "bench" computer parts I had on hand, so I had to make it work for me. Making it visually more appealing was not my intent. Although I must say I really like how the 600mm radiator turned out. I just need matching fans and that should boost the visual appeal. 



This is what I would consider jank:


----------



## Avacado

Updated Office Rig. Swapped out the 9900k for my 12900KF. 3070Ti


----------



## Sir Beregond

Avacado said:


> Updated Office Rig. Swapped out the 9900k for my 12900KF. 3070Ti


Beautiful. How are you liking those T30's?


----------



## Avacado

Sir Beregond said:


> Beautiful. How are you liking those T30's?


Love, love them. They move a ton of air and have a pleasing sound signature, though I barely hear them anyway.


----------



## energie80

I’m using t30s too and they are by far the best fans around


----------



## dwolvin

Sighs in 'still no T30-140's'


----------



## energie80

Lol you said it 😂 I’m using 2 deltas and the sound is terrible🙈


----------



## dwolvin

The bearings on my Riings are going...


----------



## Fluxmaven

dwolvin said:


> Sighs in 'still no T30-140's'


Ugh I know... I still have a bunch of ML140 Pro's in my main rig and I hate them. My T30-120's are my favorite fan and I really hope they come out with a 140 version


----------



## energie80

Fluxmaven said:


> Ugh I know... I still have a bunch of ML140 Pro's in my main rig and I hate them. My T30-120's are my favorite fan and I really hope they come out with a 140 version


They confirmed 140


----------



## opheen

011 Mini Air REV-2.0
1x Black Ice Nemesis LS240 
1x EK CoolStream PE240 
1x XSPC TX240
1x 40mm FAN
1x 80mm FAN
2x 140mm FAN
12x 120mm FAN


----------



## storm-chaser

opheen said:


> 011 Mini Air REV-2.0
> 1x Black Ice Nemesis LS240
> 1x EK CoolStream PE240
> 1x XSPC TX240
> 1x 40mm FAN
> 1x 80mm FAN
> 2x 140mm FAN
> 12x 120mm FAN
> 
> 
> View attachment 2580703


You forgot to list what appears to be a heatkiller IV?


----------



## opheen

storm-chaser said:


> You forgot to list what appears to be a heatkiller IV?


*Watercool HEATKILLER IV PRO Copper-Nickel*


----------



## Squadd

Old Boy


----------



## nyk20z3

Finally installed my 6900XT Strix with a Phanteks block. Just had a nasty air pocket in the top left corner. It got a little better after letting it run all night but still needs more time to work itself out.


----------



## J7SC

nyk20z3 said:


> Finally installed my 6900XT Strix with a Phanteks block. Just had a nasty air pocket in the top left corner. It got a little better after letting it run all night but still needs more time to work itself out.
> View attachment 2581790
> 
> View attachment 2581791
> 
> View attachment 2581789
> 
> View attachment 2581788
> 
> View attachment 2581792


...nice !
You might have to get used to that air-pocket, though...I use a similar Phanteks block (my fav GPU block brand, btw) for my 3090 Strix, and that area just to the top left of the cooling fins 're-attracts' air pockets easily, even after getting rid off them. This is a work-play dual mobo system, and the 6900XT Giga-G-OC has a Bykski block...both blocks have performed extremely well for 1 1/2 years now.

Soon, one of them will have to move to another work-play setup here, due to a new arrival (for which the water block is here, too)


----------



## nyk20z3

Looking good bro, I just checked it before and still it’s not coming around completely.


----------



## Avacado

nyk20z3 said:


> Looking good bro, I just checked it before and still it’s not coming around completely.
> 
> View attachment 2581915
> 
> View attachment 2581914


Going to have to lay her on the backside while the pumps are running somehow.


----------



## tiggerlator

Avacado said:


> Going to have to lay her on the backside while the pumps are running somehow.


That's what i had to do with mine to clear the bubble, even with pump on 100% it would not clear it.


----------



## Avacado

tiggerlator said:


> That's what i had to do with mine to clear the bubble, even with pump on 100% it would not clear it.


Maybe slower than 100%. Try minimum speed.


----------



## tiggerlator

just changed to the Corsair 7000D, bigger but still a squeeze getting my 360x60 and 360x45 rads in with a ultitube 150. Have'nt cleared the bubble yet this time, will let it run for a bit first. 
The 360x60 in on the top and the 360x45 is on the front with the ultitube on the back


----------



## Fluxmaven

Avacado said:


> Going to have to lay her on the backside while the pumps are running somehow.





Avacado said:


> Maybe slower than 100%. Try minimum speed.


Lay her on her backside while alternating pumping speed... I thought we only did that over at XXXtremeHW 🤣


----------



## Zfast4y0u

tiggerlator said:


> just changed to the Corsair 7000D, bigger but still a squeeze getting my 360x60 and 360x45 rads in with a ultitube 150. Have'nt cleared the bubble yet this time, will let it run for a bit first.
> The 360x60 in on the top and the 360x45 is on the front with the ultitube on the back
> View attachment 2581965
> 
> View attachment 2581964


GL clearing the bubble from that top rad if you dont have roof ports on your rad. from my personal experience its very hard to clear it, and somehow, with the time, more and more air gets trapped in there. well over the years i got pissed and decided no more rads with just 2 ports for me on the roof of the case. this is solution for now till i find bigger rad with at least 4 ports or more.










you basically fill your system with coolant, let it run a bit, open top port, fill top rad with coolant till its full to the max, close the port, and you are done with annoying air bubbles, just make sure your case is on even ground while doing it. i wish more manufacturers would do this. this 360/60mm rad i got from EK has 4 ports, which is fine, ideal would be five ports where one is on the side, *Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 480mm Radiator V.2  *will be probably the rad im going to snatch in about a month, it has 5 ports.


----------



## tiggerlator

Zfast4y0u said:


> GL clearing the bubble from that top rad if you dont have roof ports on your rad. from my personal experience its very hard to clear it, and somehow, with the time, more and more air gets trapped in there. well over the years i got pissed and decided no more rads with just 2 ports for me on the roof of the case. this is solution for now till i find bigger rad with at least 4 ports or more.
> 
> View attachment 2582654
> 
> 
> you basically fill your system with coolant, let it run a bit, open top port, fill top rad with coolant till its full to the max, close the port, and you are done with annoying air bubbles, just make sure your case is on even ground while doing it. i wish more manufacturers would do this. this 360/60mm rad i got from EK has 4 ports, which is fine, ideal would be five ports where one is on the side, *Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 480mm Radiator V.2  *will be probably the rad im going to snatch in about a month, it has 5 ports.


I have my 4 port EK 360x60 on the top, just checked mine and had air in the rad, so used you method to get rid of it. thx

Btw, what case is that?


----------



## Zfast4y0u

tiggerlator said:


> I have my 4 port EK 360x60 on the top, just checked mine and had air in the rad, so used you method to get rid of it. thx
> 
> Btw, what case is that?


well if it worked, im glad I could help ya. check on it water level after few days, till all your bubbles from reservoir are gone, they may end up on top of your rad again, you may need to pure few more drops of liquid, but in general you should be fine ^^.

regards the case, If I tell you, ppl over here will burn me alive. 😅


----------



## Fluxmaven

Zfast4y0u said:


> regards the case, If I tell you, ppl over here will burn me alive. 😅


So you're saying it's a Thermalfake 

Looks like a Core WP100


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Fluxmaven said:


> So you're saying it's a Thermalfake
> 
> Looks like a Core WP100


You cant blame me, caselabs is out of business and other cases of this class are just hard skip for me. i had no options. now, im set for life with this thing.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Zfast4y0u said:


> You cant blame me, caselabs is out of business and other cases of this class are just hard skip for me. i had no options. now, im set for life with this thing.


Not blaming you, just had to poke a bit of fun at you. There isn't much to pick from in the super tower realm currently.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Fluxmaven said:


> Not blaming you, just had to poke a bit of fun at you. There isn't much to pick from in the super tower realm currently.


yep thats true, lian li 3000 and corsair 1000d, cant think of any more, but i think there is one or two more on the market. i like this one the most ( checks all my boxes )


----------



## J7SC

...don't forget about the TT Core 8 (good one last year after good experiences with TT Core P5). The Core P8 has just enough room for two ATX mobos side-by-side, and it is also very accessible for Dremel ops...


----------



## Zfast4y0u

J7SC said:


> ...don't forget about the TT Core 8 (good one last year after good experiences with TT Core P5). The Core P8 has just enough room for two ATX mobos side-by-side, and it is also very accessible for Dremel ops...


naw, that thing is screaming showcase, i want very good ventilation where fans are not choked to the death, i like more functionality over looks. 🤷‍♂️


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Until CaseLabs gets resurrected, I don't blame you. Trying to find a good case to take 480s is hard. Fractal Meshify XL comes to mind, or the Corsair 1000D for big bucks and dual 480s, if you can find one. Not sure I would want to lift it fully loaded though.


----------



## J7SC

Zfast4y0u said:


> naw, that thing is screaming showcase, i want very good ventilation where fans are not choked to the death, i like more functionality over looks. 🤷‍♂️


...don't agree with that at all since the TT Core P8 can be configured in various different ways - in terms of orientation as well as the multitude of cooling options...best-cooled case I ever had, apart perhaps from the Core P5...


----------



## Zfast4y0u

J7SC said:


> ...don't agree with that at all since the TT Core P8 can be configured in various different ways - in terms of orientation as well as the multitude of cooling options...best-cooled case I ever had, apart perhaps from the Core P5...
> View attachment 2582733


oh, i tought only W100 and W200 were modular design, good to see they use modular design in their other lines too.
idk whenever i see glass panel where it should be grills for fans to breath, i get instantly turned off. what case you have now?


----------



## J7SC

Zfast4y0u said:


> oh, i tought only W100 and W200 were modular design, good to see they use modular design in their other lines too.
> idk whenever i see glass panel where it should be grills for fans to breath, i get instantly turned off. what case you have now?


I have a Core P5 and Core P8...Core P8 comes with mesh filters as well as so you can exchange them for the glass, whatever combo you want.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

J7SC said:


> I have a Core P5 and Core P8...Core P8 comes with mesh filters as well as so you can exchange them for the glass, whatever combo you want.


if you can swap front glas for a mesh, then its fine imo. that p5 is open case, ofc it will be great for airflow. i had core x71 prior to core wp100, it was a good case, i made few modifications to it 😇 but on the end i came to conclusion, it cant handle 2 luubes properly. for two-three rads its fine + you can hide pumps and psu in pedistal on it.


----------



## tiggerlator

Zfast4y0u said:


> well if it worked, im glad I could help ya. check on it water level after few days, till all your bubbles from reservoir are gone, they may end up on top of your rad again, you may need to pure few more drops of liquid, but in general you should be fine ^^.
> 
> regards the case, If I tell you, ppl over here will burn me alive. 😅



surprised how much i had to put i there, though id did make my res fill to the brim too.

Lol i just noticed the 4x120 on top. Burn me too but i kinda liked some of them big TT cases like yours. 

I would love a CL case but could never get hold of one in blighty, or they were always extraordinary prices.


----------



## Fluxmaven

I was just finishing up my degree when Caselabs died. I was upset because I just barely missed the opportunity to buy one new. They go for stupid money 2nd hand which I can't justify. I considered a WP100 or 200 but I did builds for friends in a Level 20 XT and a Tower 900 and wasn't impressed with the fit and finish of their products. Wanted an aluminum case and desperately clung to hope that I would find some form of a Lian Li PC-V3000... They have been teasing the 3000+ for a while now. At this point Caselabs will come back before Lian Li delivers.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Fluxmaven said:


> I was just finishing up my degree when Caselabs died. I was upset because I just barely missed the opportunity to buy one new. They go for stupid money 2nd hand which I can't justify. I considered a WP100 or 200 but I did builds for friends in a Level 20 XT and a Tower 900 and wasn't impressed with the fit and finish of their products. Wanted an aluminum case and desperately clung to hope that I would find some form of a Lian Li PC-V3000... They have been teasing the 3000+ for a while now. At this point Caselabs will come back before Lian Li delivers.


if they reopen CL at all ( there was some drama between the dudes that are planing to re open it, that i had no interesst diving into ), you would have to wait up to a year till they start rolling out cases, since i read here, they want to sell parts first only, the question is, will they revive old lines or not, and tbh, sma8 is getting old no matter how good it was, i would love to see sma8 continuation with improvements, however, im not ordering that thing to ship to europe, they would need to find reseller here. its one of the reasons i couldnt justify buying it. core wp100 is fine, however could be made from thicker metal, you need to be gentle with some parts, but it dosent bother me too much tbh.


----------



## opheen

Friend of mine just mounted EK Mana monoblokk from z690 torpedo on PRO z790-A DDR4


----------



## opheen

Friend of mine just mounted EK Mana monoblokk from z690 torpedo on PRO z790-A DDR4


----------



## dwolvin

Does it fit well?


----------



## opheen

dwolvin said:


> Does it fit well?


Yeah, you have to use the Msi z690 Torpedo Heatsink's that you get with the monoblock (it is included with the block and they fit without mods on Pro - A


----------



## opheen




----------



## Shawnb99

Zfast4y0u said:


> if they reopen CL at all ( there was some drama between the dudes that are planing to re open it, that i had no interesst diving into ), you would have to wait up to a year till they start rolling out cases, since i read here, they want to sell parts first only, the question is, will they revive old lines or not, and tbh, sma8 is getting old no matter how good it was, i would love to see sma8 continuation with improvements, however, im not ordering that thing to ship to europe, they would need to find reseller here. its one of the reasons i couldnt justify buying it. core wp100 is fine, however could be made from thicker metal, you need to be gentle with some parts, but it dosent bother me too much tbh.


They have said they will revive the old lines and be open to updating them. They are also based out of Europe as well so it's actually us overseas that will be seeing the insane shipping costs.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Shawnb99 said:


> They have said they will revive the old lines and be open to updating them. They are also based out of Europe as well so it's actually us overseas that will be seeing the insane shipping costs.


haaaa, well thats good news for me. I guess, I will wait and see what they come up with, as an update to sma8.


----------



## tiggerlator

Here's what mine looks like now in new 7000D case. front fans are 4x Lian Li SL120, top rad fans are Noctua AF25x25. Notice my amient temp sensor sticking out of the front of the case. All fans are connected to a OCTO and controlled by the water tempp.


----------



## AlKappaccino

I finally convertet to a full loop now! I did a GPU only loop before with bykski stuff, now since I was able to grab a 4090FE, I figured why not finally do a full loop. Went with EKWB this time, since they have all blocks available and they look stunning imo. I have to say, those Quantum Torgue fittings + 16/10 ZMT tubes were sooo much easier to handle than my previous Bykski + 13/10 tubes.

I'm happy how it all turned out. I did a lot of sketching for the last few weeks and looked here and on other forums for inspiration and tips. Thanks for all avid posters!

Anyways, some pictures attached!



























































Spoiler: Full specs:



Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL
CPU: Ryzen 5800X
GPU: RTX 4090 Founders Edition
RAM: 4 8GB(32GB)@3200MHz
MB: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro
PSU: Corsair 1000HXi with Cablemod replacement cables including the 12VHPWR

Waterloop:
CPU: EK Velocity² - AM4
GPU: EK Vector² RTX4090 FE with active Backplate
Rads: EK-Quantum Surface S360 + Bykski 360 D40 V2
Pump: D5 built in a Kinetic FLT 360 reservoir
Fittings: All EK-Quantum with Black Nickel coating and some Bykski Black extenders
Tubes: EK 16/10 ZMT matte black (EPDM)
Fans: 6x Arctic P120 A-RGB for rads and one Noctua A12 in the back


----------



## Avacado

AlKappaccino said:


> I finally convertet to a full loop now! I did a GPU only loop before with bykski stuff, now since I was able to grab a 4090FE, I figured why not finally do a full loop. Went with EKWB this time, since they have all blocks available and they look stunning imo. I have to say, those Quantum Torgue fittings + 16/10 ZMT tubes were sooo much easier to handle than my previous Bykski + 13/10 tubes.
> 
> I'm happy how it all turned out. I did a lot of sketching for the last few weeks and looked here and on other forums for inspiration and tips. Thanks for all avid posters!
> 
> Anyways, some pictures attached!
> 
> View attachment 2583964
> View attachment 2583965
> View attachment 2583966
> View attachment 2583967
> View attachment 2583968
> View attachment 2583969
> View attachment 2583970
> View attachment 2583971
> View attachment 2583972
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Full specs:
> 
> 
> 
> Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL
> CPU: Ryzen 5800X
> GPU: RTX 4090 Founders Edition
> RAM: 4 8GB(32GB)@3200MHz
> MB: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro
> PSU: Corsair 1000HXi with Cablemod replacement cables including the 12VHPWR
> 
> Waterloop:
> CPU: EK Velocity² - AM4
> GPU: EK Vector² RTX4090 FE with active Backplate
> Rads: EK-Quantum Surface S360 + Bykski 360 D40 V2
> Pump: D5 built in a Kinetic FLT 360 reservoir
> Fittings: All EK-Quantum with Black Nickel coating and some Bykski Black extenders
> Tubes: EK 16/10 ZMT matte black (EPDM)
> Fans: 6x Arctic P120 A-RGB for rads and one Noctua A12 in the back


1 intake fan and 6 exhaust fans in an O11 XL? Curious to see your temps. Sure does look pretty, but I bet it thermal throttles fast.


----------



## tiggerlator

Avacado said:


> 1 intake fan and 6 exhaust fans in an O11 XL? Curious to see your temps. Sure does look pretty, but I bet it thermal throttles fast.


I had my o11xl as bottom 3 in through rad, top 3 out through rad, rear in


----------



## AlKappaccino

Avacado said:


> 1 intake fan and 6 exhaust fans in an O11 XL? Curious to see your temps. Sure does look pretty, but I bet it thermal throttles fast.


Yeah, it's definitely more of an style over function setup. But temps are fine! While gaming my water temp is around 15°C over ambient (after 1-2 hours). Pump runs at 50%/~2.400rpm, fans at around 30%/~1.200rpm so there is a lot of room! I couldn't produce any issues while stress testing either, so for now I'm okay with it. 

Edit: What should be noted though! I try to run my hardware as efficient as it can. My 5800X is slightly undervolted and stays between 58-75 W, my 4090 is capped at 70% power target and I'm still tinkering with undervolting a bit. But in each case, it draws significantly less power than my previous 3090.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

tiggerlator said:


> I had my o11xl as bottom 3 in through rad, top 3 out through rad, rear in


Rear IN is good idea, if you dont have block on your backplate, it lowers the temps of it so much, since there is airflow on it from rear fan.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

AlKappaccino said:


> Yeah, it's definitely more of an style over function setup. But temps are fine! While gaming my water temp is around 15°C over ambient (after 1-2 hours). Pump runs at 50%/~2.400rpm, fans at around 30%/~1.200rpm so there is a lot of room! I couldn't produce any issues while stress testing either, so for now I'm okay with it.
> 
> Edit: What should be noted though! I try to run my hardware as efficient as it can. My 5800X is slightly undervolted and stays between 58-75 W, my 4090 is capped at 70% power target and I'm still tinkering with undervolting a bit. But in each case, it draws significantly less power than my previous 3090.


Use curve and undervolt instead capping the power limit ( if you use msi afterburner ), you can limit how high the card is allowed to boost, once you find sweet spot between freq and voltage, you are golden, I bet you could shawe 100w like that, you can shawe few degrees like that off the core too. PC looks great with those EK blocks I must say, love the color, looks ICE COLD, gonna fit the theme well this winter in germany ehh? xD


----------



## Avacado

Zfast4y0u said:


> Rear IN is good idea, if you dont have block on your backplate, it lowers the temps of it so much, since there is airflow on it from rear fan.


Having only ONE intake fan is NOT a good idea. The O11 Dynamic is a nightmare that just won't end. Build after build with the same mistakes every time that result in the same questions on this forum eventually. The O11 is a good case only after you replace the front glass with a custom panel that can accommodate fans/rads.

Kind of like this...


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Avacado said:


> Having only ONE intake fan is NOT a good idea. The O11 Dynamic is a nightmare that just won't end. Build after build with the same mistakes every time that result in the same questions on this forum eventually. The O11 is a good case only after you replace the front glass with a custom panel that can accommodate fans/rads.
> 
> Kind of like this...
> 
> View attachment 2584153



Hey, what you expect from ppl that dont even know what they are doing. I have seen here one guy having dust filters on exaust fans on top of a case, hahah ) when ppl asked him what the **** is he doing? he said, the manufacturer put em there, so they should be there. face palm.


----------



## dwolvin

Heh, and then I'm over here running filters on an exposed case (TT P3). Filter gang for life!


----------



## Zfast4y0u

dwolvin said:


> Heh, and then I'm over here running filters on an exposed case (TT P3). Filter gang for life!


but the best part is, this **** magnetic filters, like on thermaltake cases, they dont filter jack ****.









This one i find okay:










But imo, it restrict performance of a fan way too much. Better dust off your case once every two weeks if you dont wanna have build up, instead using filters.


----------



## TeslaHUN

*Zfast4y0u*
Nah ,most dustfilters are easy to overcome by static pressure fans . And they catch a lot of dirt . I see no reason not to use filters for intake.
My ghetto benchmarks on filters :


----------



## dwolvin

Agreed, I have some really fine (need a daily swipe to clean) filters on my rads, and the Riings 140's have not trouble pulling air through them and getting it past the rad. And those are old / only decent fans.


----------



## AlKappaccino

Zfast4y0u said:


> Use curve and undervolt instead capping the power limit ( if you use msi afterburner ), you can limit how high the card is allowed to boost, once you find sweet spot between freq and voltage, you are golden, I bet you could shawe 100w like that, you can shawe few degrees like that off the core too. PC looks great with those EK blocks I must say, love the color, looks ICE COLD, gonna fit the theme well this winter in germany ehh? xD


Haha, yeah, but at least the 4090 heats up my room without using any gas  

Also, indeed manual UV is better than powertarget. I still have to do more testing, but I tinkered around in Cyberpunk 2077 a bit:

I'm playing on 3840x1600 + DLSS Q, max settings, except some stuff like volumetric resolution etc., with psycho rt. 
And I'm getting heavily limited by my 5800X. That wasn't the case before the last 1.61 Patch. Anyways, in my testing area (The market which DF also used for some tests) I'm hovering between 62-66 FPS uncapped now. GPU usage sits between 70-80%. So w.e. I capped it at 60 and my 4090 draws only around 192-220 W. 

Current UV Settings are 2.520-2.560 MHz (Can't recall exactly) at 0.875 V. (Side note: Running the same test with stock settings and OC'd, my fps doesn't increase, indicating it is indeed a CPU bottleneck)

My previous 3090 could render around 38 FPS in that same area while needing 348 W to do so. That is insane. 



Zfast4y0u said:


> But imo, it restrict performance of a fan way too much. Better dust off your case once every two weeks if you dont wanna have build up, instead using filters.


I have cats and I clean my dust filters every week, it's a nightmare  I really don't want to remove them.

The one Noctua fan as an intake in the back of my case, also has a dust filter attached. 



Avacado said:


> Having only ONE intake fan is NOT a good idea.


Yeah it's not ideal. But as I described above, the 4090 can run extremely efficient so atm it's no issue. It's pretty cold anyways and space heaters stay off  

Though I'm currently working on a shroud that mounts just like the slot brackets where I can attach a second intake fan. I have exactly 6 slots below my gpu which coincidentally measures to 120mm. We'll see how that turns out.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

With curve you run card on less current for same outcome, you were with power target at 70% like a car in first gear driving 50kmh, instead using curve and being in 5th gear at same speed. 🤪


----------



## TeslaHUN

Power target is just perfect for 4090 , no need to waste time finding stable curve
Here is my Asus , 2,9ghz @ 370W (80% power target +200 gpu +1000 mem ) cool and quiet on stock fan curve.


----------



## AlKappaccino

TeslaHUN said:


> Power target is just perfect for 4090 , no need to waste time finding stable curve


Yeah, it's a quick and dirty way that works just fine! For me as @Zfast4y0u stated, the curve resulted almost the same but my power consumption dropped by another 50 W or something like that. So I do think it's worth it. Nonetheless, great results 

Edit: Managed to print my first iteration of the fan shroud:















Kinda works. Need to re-adjust the throughholes and switch the cable guide to the bottom.


----------



## J7SC

...per > this earlier post, I recently updated one half of the Ravens_Nest dual-mobo work+play build in the TT Core P8 with a RTX 4090...this involved 'open loop surgery' (just partial draining, then exchanging the previous water-blocked GPU with the new water-blocked GPU). Nothing spilled or broke . I used thermal putty again, and temps are great, especially for the speed this thing can run at. I finally have time later this week to clean up the tubing and wiring which currently is a bit of a mess.


----------



## Shawnb99

Zfast4y0u said:


> but the best part is, this *** magnetic filters, like on thermaltake cases, they dont filter jack ***.
> View attachment 2584175
> 
> 
> This one i find okay:
> 
> View attachment 2584176
> 
> 
> But imo, it restrict performance of a fan way too much. Better dust off your case once every two weeks if you dont wanna have build up, instead using filters.


It’s Thermalfake so I’d be surprised any of it worked


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s Thermalfake so I’d be surprised any of it worked


I love TT.


----------



## Shawnb99

Zfast4y0u said:


> I love TT.


I pity you then.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Zfast4y0u said:


> I love TT.


I love TT too, they produce super things and dont ask premium price .
But there are few TT haters here on OCN but they are loud .Not cool


----------



## Shawnb99

TeslaHUN said:


> I love TT too, they produce super things and dont ask premium price .
> But there are few TT haters here on OCN but they are loud .Not cool


You mean to say they steal from others who produce super things and then sell for cheap so they can undercut the opposition. People who are in abusive relationships often aren’t able to recognize they are being used and abused and can easily mistake that for love.
What’s not cool is enabling this abuse with posts like this fawning over the abusers.
Seek therapy cause you need it bad.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Shawnb99 said:


> You mean to say they steal from others who produce super things and then sell for cheap so they can undercut the opposition. People who are in abusive relationships often aren’t able to recognize they are being used and abused and can easily mistake that for love.
> What’s not cool is enabling this abuse with posts like this fawning over the abusers.
> Seek therapy cause you need it bad.


Yes i know you are one of those Caselabs fanboys , dont start this again .Boring . Every company steal ideas from others ,get over it. Welcome to capitalism.


----------



## ENTERPRISE

Thread cleaned. Please do not carry on with the arguments and being rude to one another, it achieves nothing. Report the issue and move on.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

ENTERPRISE said:


> Thread cleaned. Please do not carry on with the arguments and being rude to one another, it achieves nothing. Report the issue and move on.


how about you ban that dude for a month? its not his first time he goes on attacking everyone who disagree with him.


----------



## ssgwright

had to get creative with the size of this thing until my block arrives...


----------



## J7SC

...cleaned up the dual mobo work-play build tonight after hooking in the 4090 (lower right in both pics) earlier. Both X570 CPU blocks from Phanteks; 6900XT and RTX 4090 GPU blocks both from Bykski...hope to take some better pics soon.


----------



## dwolvin

Jeebus that's a beast (well, pair of), What's it pull from the wall?


----------



## neiss

Hi this is one of my first posts. I just wanted to pass by and share some pictures of my new PC.
























Enviado desde mi SM-N976B mediante Tapatalk


----------



## J7SC

dwolvin said:


> Jeebus that's a beast (well, pair of), What's it pull from the wall?


It's space efficient ! Thermaltake Core P8 'case' is just big enough to handle two ATX mobos side-by-side (here in slightly older config). Power comes from 2x Seasonic PP PX 1300W. Actual consumption depends on which half runs what...


----------



## tiggerlator

Here's my 7000D


----------



## Dash8Q4

Switched over to an Intel based system and added a new 420mm up front because the top one broke. Also switched to conventional GPU orientation. Rear pic is pre-cable management.


----------



## tiggerlator

Dash8Q4 said:


> Switched over to an Intel based system and added a new 420mm up front because the top one broke. Also switched to conventional GPU orientation. Rear pic is pre-cable management.
> View attachment 2586352
> 
> View attachment 2586351
> 
> View attachment 2586349
> View attachment 2586350
> 
> View attachment 2586353


Nice, love the pipe through backplate, same flow meter as mine i think too.


----------



## Dash8Q4

tiggerlator said:


> Nice, love the pipe through backplate, same flow meter as mine i think too.


Yeah, before I had it inside the case but I did some tests with a passthrough fitting and an elbow and the back panel was able to close with a hair of space still. So I moved it to the back. That first 90 is also pushed so the tube is closer to the wall, bringing the sensor closer to the wall as well and I put some double sided gorilla tape on the right side to stick it and securing it further. Happy how it turned out. Next is changing the run between the bottom rad and the passthrough on the floor of the case going to the front rad(long vertical run) to EPDM since its currently EK ultraclear tubing, in case it leeches plasticizer. And redo the two runs to the top rad after moving it backwards more.


----------



## LazarusIV

Dash8Q4 said:


> Switched over to an Intel based system and added a new 420mm up front because the top one broke. Also switched to conventional GPU orientation. Rear pic is pre-cable management


Hey that looks fantastic! I'm very curious, is that a Meshify 2 XL? If so, I have the same case and I've been struggling with how to attach my Aquacomputer Ultitube D5 200mm pump / res combo. The problem is I have 2x 420mm HWL Black Ice Nemesis-L radiators, one in the top and one in the front, so for the front I have to remove both of the plates for the power supply shroud due to the thickness of the rad. Since both plates are out, I have nowhere to mount the pump / res combo so I'm trying to figure out how to install it on the motherboard tray portion or if I should cut down the largest plate to fit and mount the pump there, though I'll lose the stock mounting holes if I do that.

Any insights would be appreciated! 

Edit: quoted wrong post


----------



## Dash8Q4

LazarusIV said:


> Hey that looks fantastic! I'm very curious, is that a Meshify 2 XL? If so, I have the same case and I've been struggling with how to attach my Aquacomputer Ultitube D5 200mm pump / res combo. The problem is I have 2x 420mm HWL Black Ice Nemesis-L radiators, one in the top and one in the front, so for the front I have to remove both of the plates for the power supply shroud due to the thickness of the rad. Since both plates are out, I have nowhere to mount the pump / res combo so I'm trying to figure out how to install it on the motherboard tray portion or if I should cut down the largest plate to fit and mount the pump there, though I'll lose the stock mounting holes if I do that.
> 
> Any insights would be appreciated!
> 
> Edit: quoted wrong post


Yeah its the 2XL. Lots of room to work with at least with my layout. In your case, you could get a piece of black acrylic and cut it to the shape of the entire bottom and double side tape it on and mount there. Or depending on how much room you have on the motherboard tray, mount it there. My pump-res combo has the left side of the bracket on the metal part, so I had to use some black rubber/pastic washers to stand it off and be level with the right side. I drilled holes and used M3 or M4 screws and nuts(you could use bolts if you don't have access to the screw head), with the left ones having six tiny washers between the bracket and the tray.
You could try that, the acrylic, or cutting the large piece like you said but be careful how you cut it because if you use a dremel it might melt and not look as smooth of a cut. Also it wouldn't be as sturdy so think about some retaining for it.


----------



## LazarusIV

Dash8Q4 said:


> Yeah its the 2XL. Lots of room to work with at least with my layout. In your case, you could get a piece of black acrylic and cut it to the shape of the entire bottom and double side tape it on and mount there. Or depending on how much room you have on the motherboard tray, mount it there. My pump-res combo has the left side of the bracket on the metal part, so I had to use some black rubber/pastic washers to stand it off and be level with the right side. I drilled holes and used M3 or M4 screws and nuts(you could use bolts if you don't have access to the screw head), with the left ones having six tiny washers between the bracket and the tray.
> You could try that, the acrylic, or cutting the large piece like you said but be careful how you cut it because if you use a dremel it might melt and not look as smooth of a cut. Also it wouldn't be as sturdy so think about some retaining for it.
> <snip>


Oh that's very helpful, I'll have to think about that. I don't have mounting hardware for the pump / res combo so I'll have to find something then! Thank you!


----------



## tiggerlator

LazarusIV said:


> Hey that looks fantastic! I'm very curious, is that a Meshify 2 XL? If so, I have the same case and I've been struggling with how to attach my Aquacomputer Ultitube D5 200mm pump / res combo. The problem is I have 2x 420mm HWL Black Ice Nemesis-L radiators, one in the top and one in the front, so for the front I have to remove both of the plates for the power supply shroud due to the thickness of the rad. Since both plates are out, I have nowhere to mount the pump / res combo so I'm trying to figure out how to install it on the motherboard tray portion or if I should cut down the largest plate to fit and mount the pump there, though I'll lose the stock mounting holes if I do that.
> 
> Any insights would be appreciated!
> 
> Edit: quoted wrong post



Not the same case i know, but here is how i mounted my ultitube D5 150. rad at side mount, 4x120mm fans on the front, pump/res mounted on rad. Can you not have your rad on the front with the pump/res mounted on the back?


----------



## Yukss

Dash8Q4 said:


> Switched over to an Intel based system and added a new 420mm up front because the top one broke. Also switched to conventional GPU orientation. Rear pic is pre-cable management.


What is this ??? booster pump ?


----------



## tiggerlator

Yukss said:


> What is this ??? booster pump ?


It's a aquacomputer flow sensor


----------



## Yukss

tiggerlator said:


> It's a aquacomputer flow sensor


O thanks, well, I have a very weak pump on my lian li dynamic, the OG ek spc pump and its only 250 l/h, I have dual 360 rads and 2 blocks (gpu and monoblock), i have a flow sensor right before the reservoir and its reading only 32 l/h at max speed. I dont want to buy the other options avaliable with strongers pumps cus its 300 plus $. i have few d5 and ddcs pump and i cant manage to install in the distro housing. It would be a GREAT idea of a inline "booster" pump that can be accomodate in a system with "limitations" like mine. A pump that looks like that flow meter. anyways.


----------



## tiggerlator

Yukss said:


> O thanks, well, I have a very weak pump on my lian li dynamic, the OG ek spc pump and its only 250 l/h, I have dual 360 rads and 2 blocks (gpu and monoblock), i have a flow sensor right before the reservoir and its reading only 32 l/h at max speed. I dont want to buy the other options avaliable with strongers pumps cus its 300 plus $. i have few d5 and ddcs pump and i cant manage to install in the distro housing. It would be a GREAT idea of a inline "booster" pump that can be accomodate in a system with "limitations" like mine. A pump that looks like that flow meter. anyways.


I have 2 360mm rads in my 7000D, 1 EK 360/60 and 1 360/45, HK IV CPU block and EK GPU block with a D5 pump. My flow shows 135.80L/HR. it is easily enough, and pump is only set on about 50% apeed. My temps are very good at about 40c for both gaming and low 20's idle. 

You could always just get a pump with a top on in, tna fit it inline somewhere to boost your flow?
Like this
EK-XTOP D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump)


----------



## Yukss

tiggerlator said:


> I have 2 360mm rads in my 7000D, 1 EK 360/60 and 1 360/45, HK IV CPU block and EK GPU block with a D5 pump. My flow shows 135.80L/HR. it is easily enough, and pump is only set on about 50% apeed. My temps are very good at about 40c for both gaming and low 20's idle.
> 
> You could always just get a pump with a top on in, tna fit it inline somewhere to boost your flow?
> Like this
> EK-XTOP D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump)


its a d5 pump super powerfull pump, i have few myself, its 1500Liter per hour at max speed, the one i have is a weak pump only 250 liter per hour. I cant change it because the housing of the distro is just for this pump and nothing else.


Motor: Electronically commuted motor
Rated voltage: 12V DC
Power consumption: 6W
Maximum pressure head: 2.2m
Maximum flow rate: 250 L/h
Maximum liquid temperature: 50°C
Materials: PPS-GF30, EPDM O-rings, graphite
Power connector: 4-Pin PWM FAN connector
D-RGB cable length: 50cm
D-RGB connector 3-pin 5V digital LED header (Pinout: +5V, D, Blocked, Ground)
Reservoir volume: ~650ml


----------



## tiggerlator

Yukss said:


> its a d5 pump super powerfull pump, i have few myself, its 1500Liter per hour at max speed, the one i have is a weak pump only 250 liter per hour. I cant change it because the housing of the distro is just for this pump and nothing else.
> 
> 
> Motor: Electronically commuted motor
> Rated voltage: 12V DC
> Power consumption: 6W
> Maximum pressure head: 2.2m
> Maximum flow rate: 250 L/h
> Maximum liquid temperature: 50°C
> Materials: PPS-GF30, EPDM O-rings, graphite
> Power connector: 4-Pin PWM FAN connector
> D-RGB cable length: 50cm
> D-RGB connector 3-pin 5V digital LED header (Pinout: +5V, D, Blocked, Ground)
> Reservoir volume: ~650ml
> 
> View attachment 2586503


If it is the EK plate with a D5, any D5 should fit as they all have the same shape for mounting.

My pump is the newer EK G3

You need one of these and a normal D5, or maybe a good EK DDC might fit, a DDC would screw on with no extra mounts.

EDIT, just looked and the SPC looks like a DDC clone, i don't think a D5 will fit, but a nicer DDC will screw straight on i reckon.

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/18564/xspc-d5-pump-bracket


----------



## Dash8Q4

My setup is three rads all alphacool, 280mm*45mm up top with Arctic P140 fans and a 30mm thick one in the bottom with fractal stock fans, one 420mm*45mm on the front with Arctic P140. Barrow gpu block ftw3, Bykski CPU block, and the flow sensor. All pushed by a Barrow "D5" giving me 265L/h at max speed but I never run it at that, only once an hr to get the bubbles pushed out and then I will set it at 35% idle and 70% when liquid temp goes above 37. All my front and top fans are mostly OFF during idle on the PC and ramp up to maintain liquid temp of 36C. Only the rear fan and the bottom fans are going right now.


----------



## tiggerlator

Dash8Q4 said:


> My setup is three rads all alphacool, 280mm*45mm up top with Arctic P140 fans and a 30mm thick one in the bottom with fractal stock fans, one 420mm*45mm on the front with Arctic P140. Barrow gpu block ftw3, Bykski CPU block, and the flow sensor. All pushed by a Barrow "D5" giving me 265L/h at max speed but I never run it at that, only once an hr to get the bubbles pushed out and then I will set it at 35% idle and 70% when liquid temp goes above 37. All my front and top fans are mostly OFF during idle on the PC and ramp up to maintain liquid temp of 36C. Only the rear fan and the bottom fans are going right now.


I have noctua NF-A12x25 pwm on the 60mm rad and noctua NF-P12 redux 1700 PWM on the 45mm, wonder how it would be if i set them to off when idle? You using aquasuite? I have all my fans connected to a OCTO, as with my ambient, and water temp flow/sensors


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Yukss said:


> i have a flow sensor right before the reservoir and its reading only 32 l/h at max speed.


Are you serious with those numbers? thats like 0,5L per minute. Your loop is barely moving. show us pics?


----------



## J7SC

...some minor modding on details; updated TT Core P8 with work+play build (X570/3950X/6900XT upper left; X570/5950X/RTX4090 lower right)


----------



## Dash8Q4

Dash8Q4 said:


> Switched over to an Intel based system and added a new 420mm up front because the top one broke. Also switched to conventional GPU orientation. Rear pic is pre-cable management.
> View attachment 2586352
> 
> View attachment 2586351
> 
> View attachment 2586349
> View attachment 2586350
> 
> View attachment 2586353


here's the drain port for those with Meshify 2 XL cases. It's at the top of the rad in the basement. Works great and the dust shield and front panel don't interfere. I also taped a temp sensor to the rad chamber which is within 1 C of my in-line sensor which is on the inlet of the top rad.


----------



## storm-chaser

reserved


----------



## WebsterRKL

The mother of all motherboards.


----------



## storm-chaser

WebsterRKL said:


> The mother of all motherboards.
> 
> View attachment 2586892


Looks like maybe its a godlike?

Haven't seen you in a while, how goes it?


----------



## Sir Beregond

storm-chaser said:


> Looks like maybe its a godlike?


ROG Maximus Z790 APEX I believe.


----------



## J7SC

WebsterRKL said:


> The mother of all motherboards.
> 
> View attachment 2586892


...a white-PCB Galax RTX 4090 HoF would go well with that Z790 Apex ! 


Spoiler


----------



## LazarusIV

tiggerlator said:


> Not the same case i know, but here is how i mounted my ultitube D5 150. rad at side mount, 4x120mm fans on the front, pump/res mounted on rad. Can you not have your rad on the front with the pump/res mounted on the back?
> <snip>


I probably could, I just don't have the rad mounting hardware and around Christmas I'm not going to buy new stuff right now. So I suppose this build waits even longer!


----------



## Zammin

Just finished my new PC build with a 3x 360mm rad loop. Pretty happy about how it turned out. 😃

This build marked a few firsts for me. First time working with acrylic (PMMA) tubing instead of PETG, first time doing offset bends, and first time actually measuring double bends. Learned a fair bit in the process.

PC Specs: 13700k, 4090 TUF OC, Dominator 6000Mhz 32GB RAM, MSI Z690 Unify, 5TB SSD storage, RM1000i
Custom Loop Specs: Velocity2 CPU Block, Vector2 GPU Block, Heatkiller Tube 200 D5 Reservoir, Heatkiller Rad 360-L (Top), XSPC TX360 (Front), HardwareLabs 360GTS (Side), Barrow Fittings, 10x Silent Wings Pro 4 Fans


----------



## tiggerlator

Zammin said:


> Just finished my new PC build with a 3x 360mm rad loop. Pretty happy about how it turned out. 😃
> 
> This build marked a few firsts for me. First time working with acrylic (PMMA) tubing instead of PETG, first time doing offset bends, and first time actually measuring double bends. Learned a fair bit in the process.
> 
> PC Specs: 13700k, 4090 TUF OC, Dominator 6000Mhz 32GB RAM, MSI Z690 Unify, 5TB SSD storage, RM1000i
> Custom Loop Specs: Velocity2 CPU Block, Vector2 GPU Block, Heatkiller Tube 200 D5 Reservoir, Heatkiller Rad 360-L (Top), XSPC TX360 (Front), HardwareLabs 360GTS (Side), Barrow Fittings, 10x Silent Wings Pro 4 Fans
> 
> View attachment 2587057
> View attachment 2587058
> View attachment 2587062
> View attachment 2587063
> View attachment 2587064
> View attachment 2587066
> 
> View attachment 2587065


Nice, imo a GPU always benefits from water cooling, not only are temps better, but it is not dumping upto 350 watts of heat into your case. I am using soft tubing as i had a disaster with hard tubing, killing a z390 board and gtx1080


----------



## worms14

Zammin said:


> Just finished my new PC build with a 3x 360mm rad loop. Pretty happy about how it turned out. 😃
> 
> This build marked a few firsts for me. First time working with acrylic (PMMA) tubing instead of PETG, first time doing offset bends, and first time actually measuring double bends. Learned a fair bit in the process.
> 
> PC Specs: 13700k, 4090 TUF OC, Dominator 6000Mhz 32GB RAM, MSI Z690 Unify, 5TB SSD storage, RM1000i
> Custom Loop Specs: Velocity2 CPU Block, Vector2 GPU Block, Heatkiller Tube 200 D5 Reservoir, Heatkiller Rad 360-L (Top), XSPC TX360 (Front), HardwareLabs 360GTS (Side), Barrow Fittings, 10x Silent Wings Pro 4 Fans


Beautiful work.
Write as you can more technical data.
Like room temperature, how many watts you dissipate on the CPU and on the GPU what fan speed and flow and what temperatures you reach in stress, and in normal operation?


----------



## vf-

tiggerlator said:


> Nice, imo a GPU always benefits from water cooling, not only are temps better, but it is not dumping upto 350 watts of heat into your case. I am using soft tubing as i had a disaster with hard tubing, killing a z390 board and gtx1080


Plus the room you're in with the PC doesn't get warm with all the heat getting dumped into the air. It's nice in the winter though but I certainly no longer miss the sound of the fans when gaming.

How did you have a disaster with hard tubing?


----------



## J7SC

...testing out low-light & close-up settings on a different camera (GoPro Hero 10)...as always, I love 'cherenkov radiation' blue


----------



## ericc64

*MB:* *EVGA Z690 DARK K|NGP|N 
CPU:* *Intel Core i9-13900K 
RAM: G.SKILL 32 GB DDR5 6400 MHz CL32 Trident Z5 RGB 
VGA: ASRock RX 6900 XT OC Formula 
SSD: WD Black SN850 NVMe 1 TB 
PSU: ASUS ROG THOR 1000 W Platinum II 
CASE: Streacom BC1 V2

COOLING → CPU: EK-Quantum Velocity D-RGB 
VGA: Bykski A-AR6900XTOCF-X 
RAM: Bykski B-RAM-D2-X + EK-RAM Monarch 
RADIATOR: 2x Watercool MO-RA3 420 
PUMP: EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 D-RGB + EK-Quantum Inertia D5 Body D-RGB + EK-RES X3 - TUBE 400 
TUBING: EK-Tube ZMT 16/11 
FITTING: Barrow 16/10 + Koolance QD3 
FANS: 8x Noctua NF-A20 PWM Chromax
CONTROLLER: Aquacomputer OCTO 
FLOW SENSOR: Aquacomputer High Flow LT

2x MO-RA3 420 in basement... Water temp 13-18C. Chiller for free *


----------



## ilmazzo

Ahahah nice setup man! Gg!!!


----------



## InsideJob

ericc64 said:


> *MB:* *EVGA Z690 DARK K|NGP|N
> CPU:* *Intel Core i9-13900K
> RAM: G.SKILL 32 GB DDR5 6400 MHz CL32 Trident Z5 RGB
> VGA: ASRock RX 6900 XT OC Formula
> SSD: WD Black SN850 NVMe 1 TB
> PSU: ASUS ROG THOR 1000 W Platinum II
> CASE: Streacom BC1 V2
> 
> COOLING → CPU: EK-Quantum Velocity D-RGB
> VGA: Bykski A-AR6900XTOCF-X
> RAM: Bykski B-RAM-D2-X + EK-RAM Monarch
> RADIATOR: 2x Watercool MO-RA3 420
> PUMP: EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 D-RGB + EK-Quantum Inertia D5 Body D-RGB + EK-RES X3 - TUBE 400
> TUBING: EK-Tube ZMT 16/11
> FITTING: Barrow 16/10 + Koolance QD3
> FANS: 8x Noctua NF-A20 PWM Chromax
> CONTROLLER: Aquacomputer OCTO
> FLOW SENSOR: Aquacomputer High Flow LT
> 
> 2x MO-RA3 420 in basement... Water temp 13-18C. Chiller for free *
> 
> View attachment 2587465
> View attachment 2587466
> View attachment 2587468
> View attachment 2587469
> View attachment 2587470


That's a big brain setup right there. Awesome work, love it.


----------



## Barefooter

ericc64 said:


> *MB:* *EVGA Z690 DARK K|NGP|N
> CPU:* *Intel Core i9-13900K
> RAM: G.SKILL 32 GB DDR5 6400 MHz CL32 Trident Z5 RGB
> VGA: ASRock RX 6900 XT OC Formula
> SSD: WD Black SN850 NVMe 1 TB
> PSU: ASUS ROG THOR 1000 W Platinum II
> CASE: Streacom BC1 V2
> 
> COOLING → CPU: EK-Quantum Velocity D-RGB
> VGA: Bykski A-AR6900XTOCF-X
> RAM: Bykski B-RAM-D2-X + EK-RAM Monarch
> RADIATOR: 2x Watercool MO-RA3 420
> PUMP: EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 D-RGB + EK-Quantum Inertia D5 Body D-RGB + EK-RES X3 - TUBE 400
> TUBING: EK-Tube ZMT 16/11
> FITTING: Barrow 16/10 + Koolance QD3
> FANS: 8x Noctua NF-A20 PWM Chromax
> CONTROLLER: Aquacomputer OCTO
> FLOW SENSOR: Aquacomputer High Flow LT
> 
> 2x MO-RA3 420 in basement... Water temp 13-18C. Chiller for free *
> 
> View attachment 2587465
> View attachment 2587466
> View attachment 2587468
> View attachment 2587469
> View attachment 2587470


Love it man! Great set-up


----------



## J7SC

...after further (minor) loop updates, trying some new 5K shots into a small collage...


----------



## tibcsi0407

Hi,

My loop now is like this:
CPU: Alphacool XPX
VGA :EK CLASSIC GPU Waterblock
RAM: EK Monarch X4
I have an EK classic 280x45 rad on the bottom and an Alphacool 420x45 on the front. 
The pump is Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 V3 

I would like to replace the CPU block with Alphacool XPX Pro. What do you guys think. It would restrict even more my flow?


----------



## Avacado

tibcsi0407 said:


> Hi,
> 
> My loop now is like this:
> CPU: Alphacool XPX
> VGA :EK CLASSIC GPU Waterblock
> RAM: EK Monarch X4
> I have an EK classic 280x45 rad on the bottom and an Alphacool 420x45 on the front.
> The pump is Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 V3
> 
> I would like to replace the CPU block with Alphacool XPX Pro. What do you guys think. It would restrict even more my flow?
> View attachment 2588639


All I want to do is hug your rig and re-run everything.


----------



## vf-

Is that a filter between the pump and gpu?


----------



## tibcsi0407

Avacado said:


> All I want to do is hug your rig and re-run everything.


This is my 3rd revision.


----------



## tibcsi0407

vf- said:


> Is that a filter between the pump and gpu?


Nope, it's an Alphacool flow and temp sensor.


----------



## Fluxmaven

tibcsi0407 said:


> I would like to replace the CPU block with Alphacool XPX Pro. What do you guys think. It would restrict even more my flow?


Why do you want to replace the block? Are you having issues with the current one? Most CPU blocks perform within a handful of degrees of each other and resale value is terrible on watercooling components. So it doesn't really make sense to upgrade blocks unless you have some sort of failure or move to a different platform that it's not compatible with.


----------



## tibcsi0407

Fluxmaven said:


> Why do you want to replace the block? Are you having issues with the current one? Most CPU blocks perform within a handful of degrees of each other and resale value is terrible on watercooling components. So it doesn't really make sense to upgrade blocks unless you have some sort of failure or move to a different platform that it's not compatible with.


It has bigger fin density, and I believe it would fit better on my i9-13900k, since this also has a rectangle shape. I wouldn't sell the old one it would be a spare part. I would stay with Alphacool from CPU blocks because I really like the APEX backplate. Stiff af.


----------



## RichKnecht

ericc64 said:


> *MB:* *EVGA Z690 DARK K|NGP|N
> CPU:* *Intel Core i9-13900K
> RAM: G.SKILL 32 GB DDR5 6400 MHz CL32 Trident Z5 RGB
> VGA: ASRock RX 6900 XT OC Formula
> SSD: WD Black SN850 NVMe 1 TB
> PSU: ASUS ROG THOR 1000 W Platinum II
> CASE: Streacom BC1 V2
> 
> COOLING → CPU: EK-Quantum Velocity D-RGB
> VGA: Bykski A-AR6900XTOCF-X
> RAM: Bykski B-RAM-D2-X + EK-RAM Monarch
> RADIATOR: 2x Watercool MO-RA3 420
> PUMP: EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 D-RGB + EK-Quantum Inertia D5 Body D-RGB + EK-RES X3 - TUBE 400
> TUBING: EK-Tube ZMT 16/11
> FITTING: Barrow 16/10 + Koolance QD3
> FANS: 8x Noctua NF-A20 PWM Chromax
> CONTROLLER: Aquacomputer OCTO
> FLOW SENSOR: Aquacomputer High Flow LT
> 
> 2x MO-RA3 420 in basement... Water temp 13-18C. Chiller for free *
> 
> View attachment 2587465
> View attachment 2587466
> View attachment 2587468
> View attachment 2587469
> View attachment 2587470


So you find that the flow from the D5s are enough to push the water through both MoRas and up to your PC? I've been thinking of putting a MoRa (or 2) in my crawl space but wasn't sure what kind of pump I would need. I'm using 2 D5s and 3 360s in the case ATM.


----------



## Angrychair

I'm joining the club again after a decade between my last build and this one.

i9 13900KF 6Ghz on 2 P cores 4.5Ghz on E cores
Asus STRIX Z790E
Asus STRIX 4080 OC 3Ghz
Corsair Dominator GDDR5 6000Mhz
Asus ROG THOR V2 1000w psu
XSPC Raystorm Edge loop
TX480 radiator 4x120 XSPC RGB fans
Fractal Meshify 2XL
Fractal 140mm RGB case fans(I have more ordered)


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Balcony door open


----------



## Hawkjoss

Another revision of o11xl, now with 3x360 rads.


----------



## ericc64

RichKnecht said:


> So you find that the flow from the D5s are enough to push the water through both MoRas and up to your PC? I've been thinking of putting a MoRa (or 2) in my crawl space but wasn't sure what kind of pump I would need. I'm using 2 D5s and 3 360s in the case ATM.


Yes, no problem,,,The hight difference between the Mora and the PC is not big, cca 2,5-3m + cca 13m Tube. I use 2x D5 on 3900rpm in load, and the flow is 160l/h.


----------



## storm-chaser

Hawkjoss said:


> Another revision of o11xl, now with 3x360 rads.
> View attachment 2589265


First of all, looks awesome. To enhance the look you can either disable RGB altogether or change to a solid color like blue) b/c its technically a disco build with all the RGB lighting differences. Otherwise, great build, really like the use of high quality compression fittings and top notch hardware.


----------



## storm-chaser

Happened to have the right barb fittings in stock so I'm upgrading the loop for my 9600K bench rig... going industrial... this should be interesting... more pics later. Yes the pump is old but still operates just fine, will be slightly loud but its outside anyway, I won't hear it. Just have to get some hose clamps from the local hardware store and it's off to the races.


----------



## Hawkjoss

storm-chaser said:


> First of all, looks awesome. To enhance the look you can either disable RGB altogether or change to a solid color like blue) b/c its technically a disco build with all the RGB lighting differences. Otherwise, great build, really like the use of high quality compression fittings and top notch hardware.


thank you!
yes, I am changing RGB lighting to match the overall theme of the build ( mem dropped to default lighting after I re-installed, therefore rainbow puke is going on )


----------



## storm-chaser

Well, that didn't go quite as planned, but I still was able to record a 50% increase in velocity through the loop. You should see how fast the pinwheel was spinning, almost comical.

After about 30 minutes of use it appears that the seals have failed. Thankfully, I had put a number of towels down to protect the MB from water damage... so it's all good. 

Looking into furnace pumps because they are pretty compact and very quiet, and quite powerful to boot.


----------



## storm-chaser

I soaked the seals in WD 40, cleaned the brushes and sanded the armature and its running much better now. I am seeing a minimum of 10* and maximum of 25*, difference in temps under torture testing.


----------



## dwolvin

Is it loud?


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Is it loud?


It's outside, so a little buzzy if you run it for a long time, but not an issue since I'm behind an insulated wall inside the house. Great for quick benchmarking, then I just pull the plug for regular PC use.


----------



## storm-chaser

I will say, after doing some research, standard anti-freeze (Ethylene glycol)
is NOT the way to go for cold weather benching. As the temps get lower into the mid 15*F range, the coolant becomes much more difficult to pump. I see about a 15% decrease in velocity at that point, and any colder makes it progressively worse.

I would recommend methanol for a couple reasons:
1) It does not harm your loop in any significant way if set up correctly.
2) Will not act as a "bottleneck" i.e. when the temps are very low, it still flows the same rate as room temp.
3) Easy and inexpensive (windshield washer fluid)
4) You can supplement methanol with other additives that will ensure an anti corrosive effect.
5) Is not very flammable under most conditions. You can take direct flame to it and it will not ignite (probably due to 40% dilution).
6) Its good down to -20*F or more if you use concentrated methanol.
7) Does not evaporate


----------



## WebsterRKL

storm-chaser said:


> Looks like maybe its a godlike?
> 
> Haven't seen you in a while, how goes it?


I stayed with Rocket Lake for so long, just now updated to Raptor Z790 Apex 13600K (moving to 13900KS soon), and a Gskill 7600 kit - got it TM5 stable at 8000 36 46 46 121 1.5v, feels really good with my work apps.

Some EK parts arrived yesterday, super excited to move from the 115x black frame and plexi to the 1700 frame and full nickel block.

Raptor Lake is so amazing so far, and gen 5 SSDs on the way, wow! 

Some pics of the water loop and new components:


----------



## storm-chaser

WebsterRKL said:


> just now updated to Raptor Z790 Apex 13600K (moving to 13900KS soon),


Interesting. I've been eyeing the 13600K for a while... what are your impressions regarding this CPU? Does it overclock well?


----------



## WebsterRKL

storm-chaser said:


> Interesting. I've been eyeing the 13600K for a while... what are your impressions regarding this CPU? Does it overclock well?


Some 13600K's OC'ing to all core 5.6GHz stable and 5.8Ghz per-core stable. Mine is not very good, it's a real stinker SP 67, lol... I lost the silicon lottery with this chip.  Oh well it still pushed the Gskill 7600 kit to a sweet 8000 36CL daily, been using it to get work done for about 14days - no issues at all.

And temps are good with no contact plate utilized. Grabbing a 13900KS to replace it in two weeks, my 1st 8core CPU.


















Also some build refresh pics. My cables and bits fittings were white before the Z790 Apex was announced - so woohoo I was all in for the new white aesthetic.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Finished rebuild in Lian-li O11 XL. Upgraded to a 3080Ti and added another 360mm radiator. Was finally able to use my huge res and it barely fits. Im able to tip the rad after unscrewing it so i can fill it with a funnel easily. Drain valve is on a 90° rotary thats hidden under the GPU. Wish I would have mounted fans on top of bottom radiator, but next time I clean it I'll have to correct it, but it made mounting the pump very easy for the initial build. I managed the cables since these photos, added 3 LED strips, and added my 92mm ram fan back in. Have to peel the protective coating off of the glass also


----------



## J7SC

...it is finally time for the 'RTX 4090 domino effect' to be completed as that GPU bumped my RTX 3090 Strix back in October in another build I posted here before. The 2x w-cooled 2080 Ti in NVLink in the pic below will be joint by the w-cooled 3090 Strix on the X399 Creation TR motherboard (which does support 3x GPU according to the manual; in addition to offering resizable_BAR). This behemoth build in a highly-modified TT Core P5 - which also has a second mobo with another w-cooled CPU on the back - already weighs more than a 100 pounds in its current state before 'the operation' 🤪. All that will display on a 55 inch IPS HDR. So let the games and additional work tasks that like lots of CUDA cores and VRAM begin...


----------



## WebsterRKL

J7SC said:


> ...it is finally time for the 'RTX 4090 domino effect' to be completed as that GPU bumped my RTX 3090 Strix back in October in another build I posted here before. The 2x w-cooled 2080 Ti in NVLink in the pic below will be joint by the w-cooled 3090 Strix on the X399 Creation TR motherboard (which does support 3x GPU according to the manual; in addition to offering resizable_BAR). This behemoth build in a highly-modified TT Core P5 - which also has a second mobo with another w-cooled CPU on the back - already weighs more than a 100 pounds in its current state before 'the operation' 🤪. All that will display on a 55 inch IPS HDR. So let the games and additional work tasks that like lots of CUDA cores and VRAM begin...
> View attachment 2590640


Super Beautiful man. 

Mine is only a work build - a water-cooled typewriter build. lol that humble donut.


----------



## Astral85

Hello,

Just finished my project (in time for Xmas!) of rebuilding my rig with a Maximus Hero Z790 + 13900K and an external HW Labs GTX 560 Nemesis!


----------



## Krzych04650




----------



## Hawkjoss

Hawkjoss said:


> Another revision of o11xl, now with 3x360 rads.
> View attachment 2589265


change of plans(heart)
I decided to reassemble the loop due to:
A) back of the case is flimsy and pump attached to it creates resonance accompanied by buzzing noise. I tried to decouple it with rubber standoffs - much better but still not quiet.
B)Flowrate - i am getting 190lph at 100% pump and about 80lph at 45%(at this speed pump is inaudible). I though i might improve flowrate by eliminating 2x90 run at bottom rad
C)i run 9900k delidded so my lm application wasn’t good.

Result:

















So new setup fixed the pump noise - now i can run it at 65% (120lph) without hearing it.

however, the flow rates remain the same. I am getting 195lph max at full speed(might go up a but after all air is purged). Is this flowrate expected from d5 running 2 blocks and 3 rads or should it be higher?

ps: botched lm application again lol. Waiting fordie lapping tool to fix the core to core deltas.


----------



## J7SC

WebsterRKL said:


> Super Beautiful man.
> 
> Mine is only a work build - a water-cooled typewriter build. lol that humble donut.
> View attachment 2590643


Thanks !  ...I really like the colour combo and simplicity of your build - gorgeous...just trying to figure out the model of that NVidia workstation GPU (RTX A _what_ ?). As to the Z790 Apex - yummy! 

...I got the build-mod-itch-fever again, but
a.) my 'new' home-office combo build is finished (below are pics from earlier posts on that) and
b.) I am waiting for CES 2023 as to what my next work+play upgrade will be (AMD 79xx X3D or 13900 KS ?).

So my 'old' TR work-play combo has to entertain my build-project entertainment needs for now. I usually combine several work+play systems into one '''case''' which actually saves a lot of space re. footprint and so forth. Then I try to make them reasonably attractive looking because I am looking at them for 10 hrs + a day...The Threadripper build will have a combined total of 19,200 CUDAs, 872 TMUs, 200 ROPs, 872 tensor cores, 150 ray tracing units and 46 GB VRAM. While the GPUS won't always run simultaneously, there are a few apps when they will...then I'll get to watch the lights dim 😂.


----------



## ilmazzo

Krzych04650 said:


> View attachment 2590657


that gpu route means a double 90 angle?


----------



## Krzych04650

ilmazzo said:


> that gpu route means a double 90 angle?


Yes it does. No negative effects though, because GPU block has higher flow restriction than anything else in the loop, so it will be limiting the flow for everything else anyway. It is going to be ~3.40 LPM with or without those fittings.


----------



## Wilco183

Hawkjoss said:


> change of plans(heart)
> I decided to reassemble the loop due to:
> A) back of the case is flimsy and pump attached to it creates resonance accompanied by buzzing noise. I tried to decouple it with rubber standoffs - much better but still not quiet.
> B)Flowrate - i am getting 190lph at 100% pump and about 80lph at 45%(at this speed pump is inaudible). I though i might improve flowrate by eliminating 2x90 run at bottom rad
> C)i run 9900k delidded so my lm application wasn’t good.
> 
> Result:
> View attachment 2590681
> 
> View attachment 2590679
> 
> 
> So new setup fixed the pump noise - now i can run it at 65% (120lph) without hearing it.
> 
> however, the flow rates remain the same. I am getting 195lph max at full speed(might go up a but after all air is purged). Is this flowrate expected from d5 running 2 blocks and 3 rads or should it be higher?
> 
> ps: botched lm application again lol. Waiting fordie lapping tool to fix the core to core deltas.


Looking to build something similar with FLT120 in Evo case. where are your 2nd tubes for each rad running?


----------



## storm-chaser

Anyone tried porting a freeze MoD pump? Seems like they are creating an unnecessary restriction on the *inlet side of the pump. Unless this restriction helps with cavitation or something like that.


----------



## dwolvin

Not here, but yeah that looks like a restriction. But isn't that the inlet?


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Not here, but yeah that looks like a restriction. But isn't that the inlet?


You are right that's inlet.


----------



## storm-chaser

dwolvin said:


> Not here, but yeah that looks like a restriction. But isn't that the inlet?


That picture is a slightly different configuration but same idea, so yes I have that restriction on the inlet side. 
Seems to be easy enough to take a drill to it. Might just try that.


----------



## storm-chaser

Krzych04650 said:


> Yes it does. No negative effects though, because GPU block has higher flow restriction than anything else in the loop, so it will be limiting the flow for everything else anyway. It is going to be ~3.40 LPM with or without those fittings.


Still, even if you have more of a restriction later in the loop, it would help performance if you removed the 90* fittings, because while maybe they are not the worst, but it still slows you down a bit.


----------



## Hawkjoss

Wilco183 said:


> Looking to build something similar with FLT120 in Evo case. where are your 2nd tubes for each rad running?


Sure, see below:

















and, as cherry on top, replaced front glass with coldzero acrylic panel - didn’t test extensively but already seeing 4c lower water temps than before

























PS: ran some temperature tests - 30 min of RealBench for each setup. Confirmed that mesh front panel dropped about 3-4C of water temp.
Now during RealBench water delta is 7.4C for all fans at 900rpm and 4.9C with fans at 1200RPM. During gaming delta stays around 5C, with fans at 900RPM. Very happy with the outcome.


----------



## WebsterRKL

J7SC said:


> Thanks !  ...I really like the colour combo and simplicity of your build - gorgeous...just trying to figure out the model of that NVidia workstation GPU (RTX A _what_ ?). As to the Z790 Apex - yummy!
> 
> ...I got the build-mod-itch-fever again, but
> a.) my 'new' home-office combo build is finished (below are pics from earlier posts on that) and
> b.) I am waiting for CES 2023 as to what my next work+play upgrade will be (AMD 79xx X3D or 13900 KS ?).
> 
> So my 'old' TR work-play combo has to entertain my build-project entertainment needs for now. I usually combine several work+play systems into one '''case''' which actually saves a lot of space re. footprint and so forth. Then I try to make them reasonably attractive looking because I am looking at them for 10 hrs + a day...The Threadripper build will have a combined total of 19,200 CUDAs, 872 TMUs, 200 ROPs, 872 tensor cores, 150 ray tracing units and 46 GB VRAM. While the GPUS won't always run simultaneously, there are a few apps when they will...then I'll get to watch the lights dim 😂.
> View attachment 2590733


Thanks! 

I'm also waiting for CES 2023, hoping for:


Aquaero 7 announcement, it's been 10years lol
13900KS release date
new Seasonic fanless platform
any news on gen 5 ssds

The graphics card is RTX A2000 12GB workstation card. Completed a copper bridge mod and fan isolation mod, both worked out well. Love the card, I don't game on this work build, lol. 

Tried to keep the water loop as simple as possible, no res at all Aquacomputer D5 PWM HWL SR2 280mm rad, EK nickel plexi block. Moving from the black and plexi block to solid nickel with white accent lighting lens to blend with white-silver-mirror finish colors of the Z790 Apex. Plus I needed to move the block from 115x to 1700, two birds one stone. lol 

Your build rocks man!


----------



## Thronicus

Krzych04650 said:


>


are you getting good temps on the ram sticks after watercooling them? concidering buying the same watercooling kit, asking out of curiosity! looks super good


----------



## Thronicus

Here is my contribution with my water-cooled build! 

a mixed bag with both glam shots and build photos.


----------



## Krzych04650

Thronicus said:


> are you getting good temps on the ram sticks after watercooling them? concidering buying the same watercooling kit, asking out of curiosity! looks super good


My sticks don't have temp sensors so I don't know exact temperature, but it should be just few degrees above water. 

The kit is good, although one thing I learned after the fact is that it would probably be better to use some graphene pads or something like that between the heatspreaders and the block, because thermal paste can be a gigantic mess and is very hard to clean off from this material.


----------



## Thronicus

Krzych04650 said:


> My sticks don't have temp sensors so I don't know exact temperature, but it should be just few degrees above water.
> 
> The kit is good, although one thing I learned after the fact is that it would probably be better to use some graphene pads or something like that between the heatspreaders and the block, because thermal paste can be a gigantic mess and is very hard to clean off from this material.


above water temp is better then thermal limited, so thats a win! good point, will try to remember that. thanks!


----------



## Tom5051

gee copper pipe looks average when you don't use straight pipe and a proper bender. Coiled pipe is annealed


----------



## mxthunder

new XSPC Raystorm edge block installed. Saw 9* temp drop over the Raystorm V3 I had, although after I took the old block apart, there was quite a bit of buildup in it after 6 years of use.


----------



## Pedropc

My new assembly with the 4090. Greetings.


----------



## Thronicus

My brothers PC i built for him 2 years ago. 4 rads (2x 360 one thicc boi and one skinny boi, 2x 480), 14 fans, alot of water. cant remember the exact specs, but i know the system dropped ALOT of temps after the watercooling. GPU is a 1080 TI starwars edition, 10900k (i think). all the watercooling parts are from EKWB.


----------



## losttsol

I'm amazed that this club still exists and even more amazed at the builds I am seeing. Going to be back here soon. Can't wait.


----------



## Thronicus

Tom5051 said:


> gee copper pipe looks average when you don't use straight pipe and a proper bender. Coiled pipe is annealed


Luckily i did not seek out an career as a plumber! Pipes was sourced from one though, hard AF to bend even with a professional bender. Not the soft copper tubes, wanted the hard thick bois. sorry if i have dissapointed you senpai.


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## WebsterRKL

Thronicus said:


> Here is my contribution with my water-cooled build!
> 
> a mixed bag with both glam shots and build photos.
> View attachment 2591073
> View attachment 2591071
> 
> View attachment 2591071
> 
> View attachment 2591069
> 
> View attachment 2591075
> 
> View attachment 2591070
> 
> View attachment 2591074
> 
> View attachment 2591073
> 
> View attachment 2591068
> 
> View attachment 2591072


Super-Beautiful man. 

And here I am only swapping out a nickel water block side accent for an LED lighting lens, lol.

Not certain I'm keeping it this way, might move back to Full Nickel, just giving the white lens a good try-out.

Nickel top with white Bits fittings should look nice with the Z790 Apex colors. 

From full nickel to white lighting lens with LEDs:


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## WebsterRKL

That should look really nice with the Z790 Apex board. 

So sorry for the double post, I was a bit overwhelmed - just how nice it looked.

Also, moving to larger Bitspower white fittings (from 3/8-5/8 to 7/16ths and larger EK ZMT tubing for the water block update.


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## Thronicus

WebsterRKL said:


> Super-Beautiful man.
> 
> And here I am only swapping out a nickel water block side accent for an LED lighting lens, lol.
> 
> Not certain I'm keeping it this way, might move back to Full Nickel, just giving the white lens a good try-out.
> 
> Nickel top with white Bits fittings should look nice with the Z790 Apex colors.
> 
> From full nickel to white lighting lens with LEDs:
> 
> View attachment 2591608
> 
> View attachment 2591609
> 
> View attachment 2591615


Thanks! Gotta say that the nickel one looked sick 👌 but I’m also a sucker for rgb so I’d probably take the same route you did and try I out!


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## Thronicus

WebsterRKL said:


> That should look really nice with the Z790 Apex board.
> 
> So sorry for the double post, I was a bit overwhelmed - just how nice it looked.
> 
> Also, moving to larger Bitspower white fittings (from 3/8-5/8 to 7/16ths and larger EK ZMT tubing for the water block update.
> 
> View attachment 2591619
> 
> View attachment 2591620
> 
> View attachment 2591621


Oh dang that does look extremely nice 😍


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## WebsterRKL

Thronicus said:


> Oh dang that does look extremely nice 😍


I know, it does look pretty ok - I'm torn apart:

1) do I hang tough with Full Nickel and the absolute in water cooling aesthetics?

OR

2) add a little dim static solid white lighting around the very edge of the nickel block?

I set lighting values manually at R60 G60 B60 - it's a dim white or low gray, yet super appropriate (I think) for a simple work computer, nothing fancy or too flashy. 

This current image with the low white lighting and the black frame plexi 115x block I'm using now.










More of my simple typewriter build. *Apologize for reposting these two pics below, but Thronicus just came into the forum and hasn't seen these yet and he seems aesthetically minded. lol*

Lends an understanding of the mobo aesthetic - I'm trying to blend the new CPU block with.


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## losttsol

Love that build. Shout out to all the guys still doing flexible tubing! I see these Youtube guys with blow torches and perfect lines with hard tubing. It's not about that to me. Good luck adding on or adjusting **** with that hard pipe. Not hating it, it looks good, but to me it's a bit impractical when chasing temps.


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## Thronicus

WebsterRKL said:


> I know, it does look pretty ok - I'm torn apart:
> 
> 1) do I hang tough with Full Nickel and the absolute in water cooling aesthetics?
> 
> OR
> 
> 2) add a little dim static solid white lighting around the very edge of the nickel block?
> 
> I set lighting values manually at R60 G60 B60 - it's a dim white or low gray, yet super appropriate (I think) for a simple work computer, nothing fancy or too flashy.
> 
> This current image with the low white lighting and the black frame plexi 115x block I'm using now.
> 
> View attachment 2591656
> 
> 
> More of my simple typewriter build. *Apologize for reposting these two pics below, but Thronicus just came into the forum and hasn't seen these yet and he seems aesthetically minded. lol*
> 
> Lends an understanding of the mobo aesthetic - I'm trying to blend the new CPU block with.
> 
> View attachment 2591661
> 
> View attachment 2591662
> 
> View attachment 2591663


i think that the full nickel would look better overall, but it's a close call. both has their charm, but nickel sells itself more for me! Super nice either way!


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## Yukss

YouTube video below
Thermaltake tower 100 custom mod


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## Yukss

Adding a 40mmx40mm fan on the back plate reduce the temps alot


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## J7SC

Updated TT Core P8 dual-mobo setup; RTX 4090 recently 'displaced' 3090 Strix in the right-side part of the build. The 3090 is...










...now enjoying its new home in my older Threadripper build and joining 2x 2080 Ti (the latter in NVLink) for some work tasks....overall, the setup works great in various modes (somewhat surprisingly...). Some OctaneBench_marking for leak-testing purposes and to check whether that cooling system can handle 1700 W heat energy - it can. I will try to finish the re-assembly, clean everything up and put the final visual touches on the build over the next few days - more pics then.


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## J7SC

...finished the update-build today of the older Threadripper per above post...a quick collage of the new old build


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